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  <row Id="1" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:41:17.837" Score="45" ViewCount="95888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep losing pressure in my tires, and among other things, I'm looking at the valves in the tubes. It's an old mountain bike with 26 inch tires. Can I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presta_valve&quot;&gt;Presta tubes&lt;/a&gt; on rims drilled for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve&quot;&gt;Schrader valves&lt;/a&gt;? I know the valve will be smaller than the hole and could cause issues there, but has anyone had success (or failures) with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-08-30T18:06:36.450" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T20:25:22.773" Title="Can I use a Presta tube in a Schrader rim?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;presta&gt;&lt;schrader&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="43" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:41:19.520" Score="13" ViewCount="89877" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there adjustments that can be made instead of replacing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T20:38:57.630" Title="What is the easiest way to fix a loose chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="4" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:41:38.863" Score="16" ViewCount="19567" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what point to where do I start measuring? I suspect the bike I'm trying to measure is a 56cm because I usually ride a 54 and this is slightly too big, but I want to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T09:49:05.640" Title="How do I measure the size of my bicycle frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="5" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="40" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:42:10.720" Score="34" ViewCount="7097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to mail a bike from Portland, Oregon to Austin, Texas. I know that you can get free bike boxes from many bike stores, but how do you pack a bike to ship by mail or to check as baggage on a plane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T16:54:24.553" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T01:34:02.043" Title="How to get a bike from one city to another in the U.S" Tags="&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:42:15.913" Score="22" ViewCount="34339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a single speed bicycle that has some slack in the chain and threatens to come off.  How can I reduce this slack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T12:16:00.253" Title="How do I reduce slack in the chain of a single-speed bicycle?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="7" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:43:43.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not tried it, but consider, once the tube is inflated, the pressure will hold the valve stem pretty much in place.  The concern would be if the edge is rough enough that it would cut into the tube that protrudes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider cutting an old tire and wrap the base of the stem with some old tube material and you would probably be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T19:43:43.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="8" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:45:05.233" Score="10" ViewCount="3047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my cruiser to the supermarket and back, using either a trailer or a basket over the front wheel for carrying groceries. The bike has developed a persistent slow leak on the front wheel, and I've replaced the tube without it helping. I can't see anything puncturing the tire, and the spokes aren't poking through the rim tape that I can see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are 26&quot; wheels with low pressure (around 40 - 50 psi). What else can I look for that might be causing this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-14T04:03:32.970" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T22:10:53.013" Title="Slow leak on front cruiser tire" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;26-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="10" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="363" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:45:59.277" Score="4" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for recommendations on a Full Suspension bike - trying to spend &amp;lt; $2000USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for an All-Mountain bike - something with at least 6&quot; of travel but I don't want a full on DH or freeride bike either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am really intrigued by the Specialized Pitch, so anything that approximates that configuration would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="2331" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T16:35:15.743" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T16:35:15.743" Title="All Mountain Bomber recommendations" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:46:45.077" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your chain has probably stretched.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An amusing anecdote.  I took my 1996 Litespeed Tachyon (20K miles or more on it) into the shop for a tuneup and asked them NOT to change the drive train unless absolutely neccasary, since it would mean changing everything.  Its DuraAce so that would be a big chunk of change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, turns out my chain had stretched a complete link!  It was clearly stretched, but one complete chain link, so he popped out a link and reconnected the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of that you will have to decide what you want to do.  See if the chain is stretched.  They have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gastoncountycyclists.com/FunStuff/Chain_Checker.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tool&lt;/a&gt; for this, see if you can borrow one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T19:46:45.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="12" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:47:07.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you can just remove a link if it's that loose. But beware that more stress could cause it to break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="24" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T19:47:07.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="14" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:50:33.270" Score="16" ViewCount="24952" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to tune the rear derailleur of my bike to stop slipping gears?  It seems that every time I re-adjust it, the middle/upper gears are perfectly aligned, but the lower gears never stay put.  When I'm climbing up hills, the chain keeps slipping up/down a gear, and never stays put.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-05T16:22:57.010" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T06:24:53.013" Title="How do I prevent the rear derailleur from slipping gears?" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="15" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:50:47.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a tool to measure chain stretch then a normal ruler can work. The pins on links should line up at the beginning and 12&quot; mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I change my chain 2 or three times a year based on the distances I'm riding. Chaning chains regularly means that your gearing doesn't quite wear enough to fit a single chain and it's less likely that you'll have to purchase some new drivetrain components when you get a new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many/most single speeds also have the rear dropouts set up so you can slide the wheel back a bit. At least last time I looked at them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T19:50:47.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="16" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:50:52.320" Score="6" ViewCount="5134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm living in Brazil where top-end mountain bikes are very expensive, due to high import tariffs. I'd like to know which country has the cheapest top-end mountain bikes? top-end would mean a bike which can handle a race and is light, not necessarily carbon-fiber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T22:13:40.760" Title="Which country has the cheapest top-end mountain bikes?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;price&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-07-31T03:01:22.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="17" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:51:17.533" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Centerline of the bottom bracket hole to the top of the seat tube (where the seat post goes in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T19:51:17.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="18" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="127" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:51:20.947" Score="12" ViewCount="9826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a heavy man, and I find I'm breaking spokes on my rear wheel fairly often.  Is there a particular wheel I can buy or anything I can do to prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I was having the problem with a hybrid with 700c wheels, but I gave up and sold that bike in preparation for my move to LA.  I'll be looking to purchase a new bike to use for commuting once I get out there, but I'm open as to style.  I gather we'll have Surly dealers out there, so I'll definitely be checking those out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-11-13T20:08:12.627" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T20:08:12.627" Title="What is a good rear wheel for a heavy load?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="20" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="103" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:52:45.923" Score="15" ViewCount="6619" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes are more expensive than v-brakes, but in a heavy rain they will break down. V-Brakes are becoming harder to find, but they're much easier to maintain and don't break down as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of brakes are best for mountain bike racing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-09-02T03:12:54.430" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T21:44:02.580" Title="What type of brakes are best for mountain bike racing?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:54:36.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends if you're riding a mountain bike or a road bike. Ultimatley I'd think that the wheel isn't built right. A good rule of thumb is that if you break 1 spoke replace it. If you break a second one have the wheel rebuilt. A good wheel builder should be able to build a normal 3 cross wheel that can handle anyone able to ride a bike hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T19:54:36.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="23" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:54:56.980" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mark your tire where the tube's valve stem is located, remove the tube, inflate it and put it in a bucket of water.  Look for bubbles. This is where your leak is. Now inspect the tire and rim at the correlating point for something that may be causing the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T19:54:56.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="24" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:55:11.683" Score="36" ViewCount="12062" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I have my bike serviced, the bike shop sets up the gears on a stand in their workshop. The gears change perfectly on the stand, but when the bike is on the road, the rear derailleur doesn't change smoothly, and some gears are jumped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've fiddled with this myself, but can't improve over the default setup. Is it possible, or does this mean the Shimano gearsets are worn/the springs worn out on the rear derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="34" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-02T04:04:15.953" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T23:48:28.963" Title="Perfectly setting up gears - how?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:55:28.633" Score="5" ViewCount="1738" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Litespeed Tachyon, a 1996 model, of which I am the second owner, (So Litespeed will not honour the warranty) has now developed its 3rd crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First was in the seat tube above the deraullier and I got that welded successfully in 2005 and have been riding it ever since. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out the bottom bracket, and the right side of the rear stays have developed cracks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find a welder in New Jersey who will weld Ti, and will probably try it, since they charge about $50-100 to do it.  (My big delay is that I have to take off the chain ring for him to get at it, and I keep forgetting to bring my crank puller to remove the chain ring off the bottom bracket.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone else done this?  My first experience worked pretty well.  Trying to decide if I should do it again.  I am too cheap to buy a new Ti bike, and I have to say, I love Ti as a frame, and am completely happy with the bike otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have now cracked a Ti seat rail, a seat tube, a Ti front stem (twice!), and now two more places on my Ti frame.  Perhaps there is a hint here.  I am a big guy, but this is Ti!  It is strong stuff!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2010-08-30T10:14:32.937" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T19:27:57.803" Title="Experience with welding Titanium frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;crack&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="26" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="119" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:55:34.460" Score="24" ViewCount="6162" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I got my new bike with disk brakes, I thought that they would perform much better in the rain.  While this is true, they still squeak quite loud in wet conditions, which is quite annoying.  Is there a certain type of disk brake or brake pads which perform better in the rain and aren't so loud?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-08-31T22:16:38.430" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T00:57:15.107" Title="How do I prevent disk brakes from squeaking in the rain?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="27" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="158" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:55:35.473" Score="56" ViewCount="32345" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a lot of goatheads&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; in our area, and they have a tendency to do something like this to bike tires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M1Fw4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Goatheats&quot; title=&quot;Seeing this often makes me utter swear words...&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I ride a road bike (specifically a Kona Dew), so I have much smaller, thinner road bike tires. Is there any type of tire I can get that is resistant to goathead thorns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; aka &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tribulus_terrestris&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tribulus terrestris&lt;/em&gt;, puncturevine, caltrop, cathead, yellow vine, goathead, burra gokharu and bindii.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-27T18:37:50.050" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T22:26:50.690" Title="What type of tires can prevent goatheads?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="28" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:57:01.853" Score="15" ViewCount="2153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually keep my chain well lubricated. However, my gears are usually greasy. Should I be cleaning the gears or are they supposed to be greasy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2010-08-29T09:07:36.473" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T09:07:36.473" Title="Should I clean the grease off the gears?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="29" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:57:37.627" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, one of the primary differences between a Presta and Schrader valves are the diameters--with Schrader valves being slightly larger--and therefore the valve holes on bicycle rims are drilled to suit one size or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your foremost concern with using a Presta valve in a rim drilled for a Shrader valve shouldn't be 'movement' of the valve stem, as geoffc suggested, but rather a 'hernia' of the tube through the excess space at high pressure, leading to a blowout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most mountain bike tires sit at a low pressure, therefore you will &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; get away with it, however, there is a very inexpensive adapter, sometimes called a 'valve grommet', which is made out of rubber or metal and serves to make the valve hole small enough for a Presta valve to fit snugly. It will also not come loose under high pressure, unlike geoffc's 'old tire' solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-08-25T20:07:36.140" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:07:36.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="30" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:57:46.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done it and it worked fine.  Another alternative is to drill the correct size hole in the opposite side of the wheel - thus you can run presta or schrader in the same rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I inherited the wheels set up this way.  The person explained his reasoning that he preferred to just pump up the tire after a flat rather than changing tubes or patching.  My questions about puncturing the newly inflated tires immediately after got me a dim look since it sounded like he didn't bother to do any triage to remove the cause of the flats...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2010-08-25T20:42:51.503" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:42:51.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="31" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:57:54.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a big guy.  Usually 230-270 lbs.  (Alas currently at the high end). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel your pain.  My solution has been to get a 32 or 36 hole hub and rim, with the heaviest gauge spokes they make.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you go to this level, it is 'heavy' and light weight racers will point and mock you, but it will stop breaking spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until I did this on my two regular road bikes, I was breaking spokes monthly.  Drove me nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T19:57:54.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="32" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:58:30.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should work fine if the Presta tube is meant to inflate as large as a MTB tire is supposed to be. I'd tape the valve to increase it's size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T19:58:30.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="33" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="53" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:58:58.457" Score="7" ViewCount="1303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1993 Rockhopper frame that I'm riding as a singlespeed.  I have some creaking around my bottom bracket.  I've just recently stripped and painted the frame, and there wasn't anything suspicious around the bottom bracket shell.  The bottom bracket is a sealed cartridge type.  I've had some problems with the nuts that hold the chainring onto the crank coming loose, so I'm wondering whether that's the source of the noise.  What is the best way to go about determining what's causing the noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-08-25T21:02:04.677" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T16:57:11.500" Title="Bottom Bracket Creaking" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="34" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:00:00.357" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have horizontal dropouts (the wheel axle slides into the frame from the back of the bike) the dropouts have long slots which will allow you to pull the rear wheel back and take slack from the chain.  Be careful to ensure when you torque the wheel nuts down the wheel doesn't slip from being aligned straight, or the chain is running at a slight angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chain is so stretched to the point where it's falling off, you really should consider replacing the chain.  You can get away with removing a link to remove the slack but a worn chain will be prone to sticky links and popping off unannounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:00:00.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="35" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:00:07.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically the adjustment would be made at the rear dropouts. Loosen the bolt back there, hold some tension (not a lot) on the rear wheel while you tighten it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:00:07.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="36" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:01:07.097" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried them specifically with goatheads, but I've run through nails, staples, glass and just about anything else you could find in an urban environment on &lt;strong&gt;Schwalbe Marathon Plus&lt;/strong&gt; (&quot;flat-less&quot;) tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never had a flat over thousands of miles with their Marathon Supremes, either--and they're much lighter and better riding--but they're not as puncture-proof as the Marathon Plus tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither I, nor anyone in the group of hundreds of cyclists on a local Seattle mailing list have ever seen anything more puncture proof than the Marathon Plus tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.com/en/unplattbar.html&quot;&gt;Marathon Plus on Schwalbe's main site&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/flatless&quot;&gt;Product listing from Schwalbe North America&lt;/a&gt; (distributor for North America).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're available in a wide range of sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T05:09:15.523" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T05:09:15.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="37" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:01:07.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greentyre.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Solid core&lt;/a&gt; tires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They ride like lower pressure tires, alas.  But with thorns like those, best of luck with anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:01:07.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="38" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:01:25.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I clean my gearing and whole drive train every few months. I ride about 250km a week so it's not a time frame requirement but a use thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that every few thousand km or each year you should take apart your whole drive train and get it entirely clean. Replace your chain but keep the old one just in case the new one skips. I replace my chain with each cleaning so that the gearing doesn't wear to fit the chain and thus cause skipping. Well worth the price of a few extra chains vs the cost of a replacement cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal for each cleaning is that all parts should be back to their original colour. The older they are the less you can acutally do that as they scratch up but I'm sure you get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:01:25.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="39" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:01:34.487" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can.  Many presta tubes come with a grommet to allow you to use presta valve tubes in a wheel drilled for schraeder valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:01:34.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="40" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:03:11.487" Score="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never shipped a bike, but I moved from Canada to Europe with my Surly Cross-check in a box last year. When the box came off the plane it looked like it had been run over by a truck and left out in the rain, but the contents of the box were 100% undamaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold on to your pants, this is gonna be long!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shipping a bike is cheap and easy, &lt;em&gt;but make sure to do it right.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I'm sure you have found out airlines require you to have your bike in a box or a case. Cases are expensive. Most bikes are shipped to bike stores in a cardboard box in various stages of assembly from just a frame to a full bike with some parts removed for transport. When they unpack new bikes they have to get rid of the boxes so hopefully you can find a nice store that will give you one for free or sell you one really cheap, like 10 bucks or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If bike stores are no luck then furniture and appliance stores and bed stores like Sleep Country are great sources of large, strong, and free cardboard boxes and large strong plastic mattress bags, both of which you'll need. These stores are also usually overflowing with bubble wrap, styrofoam peanuts, little air filled plastic bags, and all sorts of other packing materials and are usually willing to give the stuff away if you want to root through the dumpster. Also recycling depots are always overloaded with cardboard, all free. Just think creatively and you should be able to find all the materials you will need for free in our mega-packaged and plasticized world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's how (I think) you should pack your bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Materials List&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Large strong cardboard box that will either fit your bike or can be easily cut and folded to make the right size box. Mattress boxes, fridge boxes, and large flat screen tv boxes are perfect. Just try to choose a box that is as long as your bike plus a couple of feet, and as tall as your bike plus a couple of feet, so you can have plenty of room to fold over the ends, top, and bottom. Just think of how you would size up a piece of wrapping paper before wrapping a present. I hope you are good at wrapping presents.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More flexible (but still corrugated) cardboard that you can roll like Xerox paper box type cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lots of newspaper, bubble wrap, styro-wrap... whatever you can scrounge for padding and space filler. Plastic shopping bags make great padding and can usually be had by the thousands from friends who would love to get rid of the bags of bags they have in their hall closets or kitchen drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Several rolls of 2&quot; clear packing tape. Usually sold by the 6 pack pretty cheap or else sold per roll for the small price of an arm and leg at the UPS store, post offices, U-haul and other 'specialty' packing stores.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;good box knife and/or good scissors&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Procedure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike preparation:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have three options:&#xA;a) leave the wheels on the frame and make a box big enough for the whole bike, or &#xA;b) remove the wheels and package them in a separate box, or&#xA;c) a combo of the two, which is what I did (remove front wheel, leave rear wheel on and pack it all in one box). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check with the airline for fees per box and weight restrictions on the boxes to decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;remove pedals (and crank arms if you wish to package them separately but this isn't necessary IMO)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;release the tension on your cables but leave them attached, so basically just crack the nut so the cable is for sure slack and then re-tighten gently to just hold the cable there. You mention this is a fixie so likely no shifter cables but maybe a brake cable, maybe not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;loosen stem and turn handlebars 90 degrees to they are parallel to your top tube. If you have drop bars or aero bars you may want to remove them all together, they can be placed inside the triangle of your frame when you pack the bike, but if you have any cables it is easier to leave them on the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;push seat post down into tube all the way but leave the seat on the bike, it is a good spacer against side impacts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;air down your tires but leave them spongy enough that you could just ride them. This will allow them to expand and contract during the flight but keep them seated on the rim during packing and transport&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Padding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to assume you are using one box but if you decide to ship the wheels separately then just don't put them back on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;remove wheels&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;using the more flexible cardboard cut a strip the width of your top tube and long enough to go around a couple of layers thick. Roll the cardboard around the tube firmly and tape in place, tabs are sufficient but you can wrap right around with the tape if you wish. Don't be stingy with the layers, put three layers if you want, make sure the cardboard goes right to the butt joints at either end.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;repeat this process for the down tube, seat tube, stays and fork arms. Basically just cover all the long and delicate parts of your bike with a nice thick roll of cardboard. If you are putting your wheels back on the frame make sure you leave enough space so they can fit back on, depending on how thick your cardboard is maybe you'll only get one or two layers on the stays and forks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;do a similar wrap on your handlebars and cranks but use bubble wrap if you have some, or just a few sheets of newspaper. Hold in place with a tab of tape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bubble or newspaper wrap other exposed sections of the bike if you wish such as brakes, stem, tube junctions&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;replace your wheels and tighten them on firmly. They should fit snugly between the cardboard padding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you managed to get a hold of a good solid plastic mattress bag (double or queen should do) then I would bag the bike and tape it shut. If for some unknown reason the box is left out in the rain or snow, or something in the luggage gets all over it you have an extra layer of protection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this your bike should be pretty well padded, time to put it in a box or build a box around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Boxing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Float like a butterfly and sting like a bee, stick and jab... oh right, cycling. This kind of depends on whether you have a bike or mattress box that is already close to the right size and whether you are leaving your wheels on or not. I will assume you are building a custom box and leaving the wheels on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IF YOU ARE TAKING YOUR WHEELS OFF, PUT A SPACER of some kind between your forks and stays where the axle would be to keep them from getting squished together if the box is compressed for some reason.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ALSO - MAKE SURE YOU EITHER REMOVE AND/OR PUT A BLOCK, SPACER, OR SOME KIND OF PADDING around your rear derailleur (if you have one, fixie riders can ignore this bit), otherwise you risk having it broken or damaged by careless airline tossers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A block of wood like a piece of broomstick taped in place works fine, or perhaps you have (buy or scrounge from an old bike) a couple of solid axles that you can just pop into the dropouts, with one set of nuts inside the fork screwed out gently against the fork and the other on the outside screwed in gently against the fork, sandwiching the forks/stays in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 1 - you have a mattress box or bike box that is the right height and length and just need to drop the bike into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;layer the bottom with a mass of firmly balled newspaper&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lower the bike into the box&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;starting at the bottom pad around the wheels until the bike will free stand in the box. Firmly balled newspaper or bubble wrap is best.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;once the bike is standing nicely you can begin to fill the rest of the space.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Styro peanuts, those air filled spacer bags, and bubble wrap are great for this. Loosely balled newspaper is excellent padding too. If your bike is in a clean(ish) plastic bag then extra clothing is good padding and space filler, and might cut down on the size of your checked luggage or carry on. Bulky items like jackets and pants for example. Or put your clothes in bags as well perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you have removed the handlebars now is the time to place them in the triangular space and fill around them with packing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bike parts that you have taken off such as pedals and cranks can be wrapped and places strategically in the empty spaces. Bike tools (to put it back together), tire pump, helmet, and other accessories can also be wrapped and used to fill the space.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the box is full of packing to the top, close the top flaps and tape every single edge and seam closed. More on this later&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 2 - you have a large box like a fridge box or mattress box that is way too big and you need to custom make a box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;measure how wide your bike is at its wides point, usually the BB or handlebars&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cut the box along one corner so that it can unfold and lay flat on the floor. Choose the largest side and lay the bike on its side on top of the box leaving enough room so that the top parts of your bike (seat and handlebars or stem) are below the top edge of the box by the WIDTH of your bike PLUS 4 inches. You are going to fold the top of the box over eventually and this much space will allow you to fold the top over completely making the box wide enough for your bike with 2 inches of space on either side of its widest point. Mark a line across the box at the level of your tallest part. This is where you will fold the box to make the top.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;make similar measurements and mark lines on the box where you will make folds for the bottom, and then for the top again, cut off any excess cardboard. Don't worry about the length yet, you just want to wrap around the bike first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creasing and folding these large strong boxes can be difficult to do in a straight line. One way is to pick the box up on edge and use the corner of one of your walls as a straight edge. Stand the box up flat against one wall with the line against the corner and fold the box around the corner. This should give you a good fold and not take too much effort. If you have a big table or long counter top you could use that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;make all your folds so that you have a box with open ends and an open top.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;once the box is folded it should be easy to mark, cut and fold the end flaps and then tape them shut so that you can lower the bike into your new box.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend making all of your top flaps and end flaps the full width of the box. This makes each end a double layer of cardboard and also makes taping the edges together much easier because you can just butt the folds together and tape tightly. True, the sides and bottom are still a single layer but... meh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now you have made a box just the right size for your bike with the top flaps still open. Proceed as above under Scenario 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A Note on Taping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I tape closed a box that I want to be strong and secure for shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;close your flaps and use tabs (4-6 inch long strips of tape) to firmly hold them together. For a bike sized box I would have at least 6 tabs on each end.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;once an end is made, tape each corner along its length with two strips of tape, first off setting the tape slightly to one side, and then to the other. Lay the tape strip lengthwise along the edge and then fold it over, off set to the other side and repeat. This gives each corner a double layer of tape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;once the top is closed and the flaps are secured as I just described I would now tape right around the box 3 or four times. To go from top, down the side, under the bottom, up the other side, and across the top again. Three or four strips evenly spaced. Do the same from end to end 2 times as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if any of the seams or corners still seem weak at this point, tape the heck out of them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Labeling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check with the airline again regarding any restrictions (or requirements) on labeling but I put my name on the box in big black sharpie as well a safe 'return' address. At least if the bike got lost it would get back to my folks place and I could have it shipped again. If you know your destination address then put it on there too, kind of like you would address an envelope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add labels like 'This End Up' with arrows or 'Do Not Lay Flat' to keep the box upright so they won't lay it flat and pile stuff on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Do Not Squish'&#xA;'Do Not Bend'&#xA;'Fragile'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;may also be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, that's all I can think of. If your bike gets damaged after packing it this securely then I think you will have a pretty good insurance case against the airline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and on that note get insurance on the bike for the trip, possibly through the airline, and take pictures of the bike during various stages of packing to prove your efforts and show that it's really yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paranoid enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and Bon Voyage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps. If you're traveling with the bike, &lt;strong&gt;remember to pack the tools needed to put your bike back together.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="33" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T12:30:42.840" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T12:30:42.840" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="41" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="47" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:03:36.223" Score="32" ViewCount="11604" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the reason for wearing biking clothes made of Spandex (Lycra)? They sure look pretty strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T12:55:50.560" Title="Why should I wear bicycle clothes made of spandex?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;spandex&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="42" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:04:27.820" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can run &lt;a href=&quot;http://slime.com/204/products/8-oz-tube-sealant-for-bike-and-dirt-bike-10003/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slime&lt;/a&gt; in your tubes to seal any punctures from those goat heads as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-11-21T13:08:58.230" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T13:08:58.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="43" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:04:49.573" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you mean by 'loose'... Chains stretch naturally over many hundreds of miles, and the stretching of the links is actually a good indicator of wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, instead, it seems like there is a lot of slack or 'extra' chain, this is an indicator of one of two issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The chain is simply too long.&lt;/strong&gt; All new chains (not already on bicycles) come longer than they need to be. If you recently replaced your chain, and didn't remove the extra links, this would cause the chain to be loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The dérailleur is not creating chain tension.&lt;/strong&gt; If you find that the chain seems to sag at both the top and the bottom, this may mean that your dérailleur has lost some of it's 'springiness' and is not effectively creating chain tension. It's hard to determine without further details, but if this is the case, the dérailleur may need to be replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:04:49.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="44" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="57" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:05:45.400" Score="40" ViewCount="5781" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do cyclists shave their legs? Is it because of wind resistance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-20T09:03:41.267" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T17:39:10.227" Title="Why do cyclists shave their legs?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;body-hair&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="46" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:06:16.707" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your derailleur is adjusted properly, and you are slipping gears, it's usually a worn chain and rear cog. Take the bike into your local bike shop, and they can help you get replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:06:16.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="47" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:07:28.793" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought spandex shorts looked weird too, until my wife bought me a pair with the padding. Now, I can't ride in regular shorts at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shorts with padding help protect your sensitive groin parts, as well help keep you cooler and drier (preventing nasty sores) by wicking the moisture (sweat) away from your body. There's no binding or rubbing in the wrong areas, and all your jiggly parts are held securely in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a big, important point about bike shorts - you wear them &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; underwear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jerseys also come in tight and loose fitting material - I personally prefer the loose-fitting jerseys (I'm not exactly skinny enough to wear the tight jerseys). Other than the moisture-wicking they provide, they also come in extremely visible colors, which is nice when you're out riding by yourself, especially if visibility is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastEditorUserId="28" LastEditDate="2010-08-25T20:42:57.460" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:42:57.460" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="48" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:07:40.617" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also avoid using tubes and switch over to a tubeless system, which some of my friends have had great successes of using, in terms of reducing punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:07:40.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="49" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:07:45.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Degreasing the drivetrain is a good idea. You don't have to disassemble it and soak the cassette to get the grease off. Use foamy, citrus, earth-friendly squirt degreaser and a coarse plastic brush (both can be bought at your LBS). curtismchale has a good point about the gearing being worn by a stretched chain... but doing it with every cleaning is overkill and expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:07:45.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="50" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:07:48.760" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few good reasons for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More aerodynamic, we humans don't put out much power so every little bit helps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Padded shorts. You want these for anything longer than a short ride. Most shorts with pads happen to be spandex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moisture wicking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Read some things a few years ago about muscle fatigue when jiggling (rough road/mountain biking) is greater than if you can compress the muscles a bit so they don't move as much&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="47" LastEditDate="2010-08-25T20:23:21.383" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:23:21.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="51" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:09:20.417" Score="31" ViewCount="10611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been suffering from IT band problems on my outer knee, which I'm pretty sure were caused by raising my seat height too much. I raised the seat on the advice of a friend who said that a higher seat gives more power in each stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By trial and error over several months I have found a (lower) seat height that seems to be acceptable, but I still get occasional twinges if I cycle a lot, so I suspect it's still not quite right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a well-understood way to correctly determine the best height for a bicycle seat? Are there factors other than seat height that are important to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-12-06T01:05:18.540" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T21:57:52.203" Title="How do I determine the correct position for my bicycle seat?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="52" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:09:21.697" Score="18" ViewCount="1910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a flat/puncture on my bike tube, how can I fix it myself without going to the nearest bike shop? What kind of equipment would I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T14:44:05.210" Title="How do I fix a puncture?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="53" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:10:29.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've had some problems with the nuts that hold the chainring onto the crank coming loose, so I'm wondering whether that's the source of the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very likely. It often requires a special tool to tighten firmly, but tightening it will either eliminate a &quot;creak candidate&quot; ... or the noise itself :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2010-09-08T07:43:24.803" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T07:43:24.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="55" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:12:54.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back when I rode a road bike hybrid, I always used presta tubes with schraeder rims.  I can't say it worked 100% of the time, but I only had an issue once.  And that was across a couple years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:12:54.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="56" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:13:08.800" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen a noticeable difference in wind resistance whenever I've shaved my legs for cycling, though I was never competitive to the point of measuring time in hundredths of a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found, from painful personal experience, that road rash from a crash heals much more nicely on shaved skin than hairy legs, mostly because bandages and tape become much easier to remove!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:13:08.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="57" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:13:22.547" Score="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclists shaving their legs is more tradition than anything else--there is a whole industry around creams, soaps, and salves. However, I'll defer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shaving.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;'s explanation for a few acceptable reasons why they do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To prevent infection when crashing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To pull off bandages more painlessly after dressing a wound.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To get a massage of the legs without hair pulling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason I've often heard is 'To be more streamlined in the wind'--but I don't believe it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T21:20:52.607" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T21:20:52.607" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="58" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="51" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:14:07.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you cycle, you leg should be almost straight when the pedal is down, but not completely. It should have a slight bend in the knee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:14:07.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="59" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="70" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:14:55.817" Score="22" ViewCount="7034" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of valve is the best one, a Presta valve (6mm) or a Schrader valve (8mm).&#xA;Which has the best reliability, which one is easiest to fix a flat on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T11:47:04.990" Title="Which kind of tube valve is the best?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;schrader&gt;&lt;presta&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="60" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="67" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:15:22.210" Score="12" ViewCount="2089" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to store a bicycle for an extended period of time, say 2 months? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T21:47:16.207" Title="How to store a bicycle for an extended period of time?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="61" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:16:09.527" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked with YouTube and found this really great video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/P2jCN2nVnNY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed the instructions in the video and shipped my bike from Vancouver to Frankfurt and it was flawless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="58" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T18:01:58.317" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:01:58.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="63" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:17:23.210" Score="18" ViewCount="26310" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commuting/cyclocross bike (a Surly Crosscheck) has a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I tighten the quick release skewer to a normal level, sort of firm to close it, then if I step on the pedals hard at some point, the rear wheel basically comes right out of the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the wheel actually in the frame, I have to cinch the quick release down hard enough that I get a bit concerned about ever opening it again. The springs get mangled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a somewhat recent development and appears to be getting worse. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T21:30:43.030" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T16:27:07.857" Title="Rear wheel slipping out under load" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="64" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="123" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:18:27.493" Score="18" ViewCount="6515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have mountain bike shoes and clipless pedals. When I go on long rides, my feet fall asleep and then very, very painfully wake up (on my most recent long ride, this started happening after 30ish miles and continued for the remaining 45 miles). What can I do to avoid/fix this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T22:25:58.553" Title="How can I keep my feet from falling asleep while riding?" Tags="&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="66" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="60" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:18:57.277" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't really matter.  Just try to avoid really wet places.  I have left bikes in the garage for years.  Or for months at a time between rides.  (Road bike during the winter, while I ride my MTB to work, and vica versa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have left them standing on the floor.  Hanging from both wheels in the ceiling.  I recall a thread on hanging from just the front wheel and consensus was it did not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:18:57.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="67" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="60" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:19:48.007" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just make sure you give it a good once-over when you take it out to ride again. Make sure there's no rust and that everything that should be tight is tight and lubed is lubed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:19:48.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="68" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="51" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:20:20.980" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a quick fit, the general goal is to keep the seat high enough that you can get a nearly-full leg extension, without 'locking' the knee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over a long period of time, if you find that you are having knee, foot or hip pains, try making small adjustments with the saddle, about 0.5-1.0cm at a time, either up, down, forwards or backwards. If the pain gets worse, try the other direction. Give it some time, and eventually you should find a painless position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tip I recently got from a friend having a similar problem proved interesting: Those of us who are males typically 'dress' right  or left. For him, aligning his saddle with the nose turned slightly off-center (away from the direction of 'dressing') alleviated all of his knee discomfort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T19:05:42.547" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T19:05:42.547" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="69" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="60" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:20:34.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably obvious, but don't leave it unattended outdoors, make sure it's properly locked and put somewhere where it's really hard to steal it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:20:34.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="70" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:21:11.263" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presta's main benefit is more about how the valve functions, in regards to getting pumped up to higher pressures.  Because the stem of the valve needs pressure in the pump head to get high enough before it pushes the valve stem in, and start flowing air into the tire, when you try to get to 120 to 160 lbs of pressure it works better than a Schrader valve where the valve stem is depressed the whole time, back pressure can leak out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I would say tomato - tomahto (potato - potaato?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T20:27:49.060" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T20:27:49.060" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="71" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="64" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:21:47.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often get tingling in my outside 2 toes during long road rides. I find periodically taking one foot off a pedal and stretching my leg out and flexing my ankle around really helps. Doesn't even require stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it becomes more severe, you may find stopping and doing some full stretching will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:21:47.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="72" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:22:39.593" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add on to Mike's answer, slipping is probably due to your chain being old. As a result of your chain being old, it has probably worn down the teeth on the rear cassete (you should be able to examine it and see grooves and uneven wear on the gears you use the most). Replace both the chain and cassete, then get yourself a chain wear indicator and check it periodically to prevent your chain from destroying your cassete again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:22:39.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="73" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:23:51.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my touring bike I have ridden over 25,000 miles of commuting, training, and touring, with seldom a puncture. I have used &lt;strong&gt;Continental Top Touring 2000&lt;/strong&gt; tyres, and more recently &lt;strong&gt;Vittoria Randonneur City&lt;/strong&gt; tyres, both in 28mm width, and I find their puncture resistance excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="61" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:23:51.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="74" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="117" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:24:18.520" Score="17" ViewCount="17804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding road bikes for a couple of years, but with mountain bike pedals, I've been thinking about switching over to a road bike pedal, but what's the reason? Is the performance improved or is it more about conform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T18:40:34.950" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T23:51:08.213" Title="Why is a proper road bike pedal preferred for road bikes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="75" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:24:25.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best one is the one that fits your rim, as all rims are drilled a specific diameter for either Presta or Schrader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presta adds a very small amount of ease-of-use when it comes to letting out pressure with it's 'quick-release' valve, but the difference is trivial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:24:25.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="76" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:25:45.097" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about any tire is going to be vulnerable to punctures especially as they age/wear.  I've found the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.continental-tires.com/bicycle/tyres/race-tyres/gatorskin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Continental Gatorskin&lt;/a&gt; tires to be effective and I match them with &lt;a href=&quot;http://mrtuffy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Tuffy&lt;/a&gt; tire inserts.  As long as I check the tires for embedded thorns/glass every few weeks, I can go a few thousand road miles or more without a flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside of using inserts and thicker tires is the weight increase.  To me, this is negligible and well worth the decrease in flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastEditorUserId="6757" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T08:47:24.260" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T08:47:24.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="77" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:26:26.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Meh, I would say if it's comfortable for you and you don't need to conform to specific rules for competition or anything, keep doing what you're doing. I've been riding road bikes with mountain-biking shoes for years and don't feel like I'm Doing It Wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:26:26.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="78" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:26:51.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most road-bikers, the difference is weight. Modern road pedals are often much lighter weight than the typical mountain bike pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:26:51.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="79" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="153" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:27:04.387" Score="10" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which kind of mountain bike pedal is most suitable for racing? It needs to be pretty light, but also durable to be able to resist a tough race. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T14:36:08.287" Title="Which mountain bike pedal is most suitable for racing?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="80" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="64" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:27:17.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that you over-tighen the upper part of your foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:27:17.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="81" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="51" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:28:43.550" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much you ride, you may want to consider having your bike professionally fit at a bike store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife received a free fit when we bought her Dolce at &lt;a href=&quot;http://peloton-cycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peleton Cycles&lt;/a&gt;, but they told me they will fit anyone to their bike for about $70. It's pricey, but if you are riding your bike constantly, it may be worth the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took them about an hour to fit my wife's new bike - they measured the angle of her knee throughout the stroke, did knee-foot alignment, adjusted her seat height, repositioned and gave her a new head, did a butt test and got the proper sized seat for her sit bones&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, and even went as far as adjusting the angle of her brakes so they were easier to reach. Then, after all of that, they send you home to ride your bikes for a few weeks and then have you come back and tell them what's bothering you, and they adjust it some more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This was the #1 thing I did for my bike that made riding so much more comfortable.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:28:43.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="82" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="88" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:28:53.627" Score="27" ViewCount="89632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if bike tires have a weight limit.  I have to admit, I am a large guy at 6'3&quot; 250lb (190 cm, 113,5 kg), and I have always had issues with my road bike's tires getting pinch flats.  I could never seem to put enough air in the tire to keep the rim off the road on bumps, etc.  I ride a mountain bike now and I haven't had the same issues.  Though of course they are a lot knobbier/thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires are 27 x 1.25&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T22:06:07.520" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T12:42:56.823" Title="Am I too heavy for my road bike tires?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;27-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="83" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="63" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:29:51.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this problem myself. Take it as a compliment from your bike--it means you're capable of putting a lot of torque/power through the rear wheel!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, the solution was to do what you've been doing--clamp down and take your wheel off sparingly. A better solution would be to purchase a quick release skewer with a rougher interface with the dropout. It might chew up the surface and your paint a little bit, but it will help prevent slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:29:51.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="84" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:30:29.997" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference between road and mountain shoes are the stiffness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On road bikes, the shoes are much stiffer allowing for a more efficient transfer of energy from you -&gt; crank -&gt; tire -&gt; road.  When you are in a race and every tenth of a second counts, the more efficient you are the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a mountain bike, you give up some efficiency, so you don't sprain your ankle every time you plant your foot.  Flexibility is better than stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:30:29.997" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="85" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:31:21.883" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I raced 5 Ironman races (so 112 Mile / 180 Km) bike segments and did training for that for 5 years.  I raced at 235 lbs and now I am riding 30 miles to work at 270 lbs (alas!) and I do not have an issue with pinch flats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My road tires I run at 120 lbs or so of pressure.  Though with the recent hot weather my pump was not getting the pressure that high due to over heating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would say, no to your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T14:22:36.433" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T14:22:36.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="86" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:33:24.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a big guy, so I ride with Look pedals on my road bike, because they have the largest cleat size, and the largest area to distribute my weight to the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shoes vs Pedal style are two different issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:33:24.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="87" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:33:34.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only real difference between road bike clipless pedals and mountain bike clipless pedals is weight and aerodynamics. When you consider the fact that a bicycle and rider are going to weigh over 100 pounds (unless you're a midget on some insane carbon-fiber time trials bike) a few dozen grams doesn't make a bit of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:33:34.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="88" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:33:42.817" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pinch flats are due to under-inflation of tires.  On a road bike you should be inflating your tires to 120-130 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you need to check and re-inflate your tires every time you ride.  I just keep my pump right next to my bike, and wind up adding air every 2nd or 3rd day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I see you added tire size&lt;/em&gt; - those are older bike tires, they don't inflate as high as road bike tires, I'd try pumping them to 65 lbs, and if you are still getting pinch flats, go up 5 lbs at a time until it stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tell a pinch flat because it will look like a snake bit, 2 small holes close together.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not get any pinch flats at 65 lbs, you can try going down 5 lbs at a time until they return, then you know the range your tires need to be at to be properly inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to check tire pressure every time you ride, as bike tires can lose up to 5/lbs a week from just sitting.  These are high pressure tires, so they lose air much faster than low pressure car tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T17:00:05.460" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T17:00:05.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="89" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="104" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:34:24.890" Score="61" ViewCount="5170" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the periodic maintenance tasks (weekly, monthly, annual, every X miles) that anyone who relies on a bike for transportation (typically in urban/semi-urban environments) should be performing? Ideally stated in terms of miles travelled (where applicable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorUserId="29" LastEditDate="2010-08-25T20:41:53.130" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T12:30:43.557" Title="Periodic Maintenance Task for Bike Commuters" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="32" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="90" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:35:58.177" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just a tiny bit smaller than you (~10 pounds lighter, depending on what I've eaten that week) and have ridden 700x25 tires/32 spoke rims with no problem. Granted, I keep my tire pressure high, and go over curbs like I'm carrying a baby inside a priceless ming vase, but still. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:35:58.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="91" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:37:36.977" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll find many differences between MTB pedals and road pedals, just like every other component on the bike.  Here are some of the key differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight.  Most road pedals are made of lightweight alloys, carbon, or plastic.  Road cyclists are more inclined to reduce weight of components than MTB cyclists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durability.  Needless to say, there's going to be much more abuse to a MTB pedal than a road pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-sidedness.  Most road pedals can only be clipped-in on one side, whereas most MTB pedals have interfaces on either side of the pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm concerned, you should ride with whatever makes you most comfortable.  Most people will use MTB pedals because they are easier to clip into (due to the interface on either side).  I don't think the weight savings is terribly important unless you are doing some serious climbing or racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:37:36.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="92" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:38:17.830" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A schrader valve require air pressure to open, A presta does not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference will seen when airing up a tire past 100+lbs, A shcrader will take more pumps to get from 100 to 110, because at that high of a pressure, more air is required to open the valve, whereas on a presta all the air goes into airing up the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:38:17.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="93" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="63" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:41:45.487" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem on my Pugsley, though it was under braking (discs) that I was kicking the wheel around in the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After talking with the guys at my LBS, I learned that I wasn't putting enough force into the quick release.  They said that a good, tight, clamp should leave an imprint of the lever on your palm when you close it.  It will be difficult to open, but not horrible.  This measure of tightness has served me well so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also check to ensure that your clamping surfaces are clean (get rid of any excess lube which may have seeped in there).  You can also look at the skewer itself to ensure it is a high quality skewer.  The type of clamp (I don't know if the older style even exists anymore, but I do run into them from time to time) can make a difference as well as the roughness of the clamping surface.  For a while I was using a pair of Surly Tuggnuts which have a smooth surface facing the frame which made my problem even worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:41:45.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="94" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="99" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:42:18.917" Score="6" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;My front tire has the skinny valve (I believe it is a Presta) and so does my rear tire. But my rear tire also has a screw-on piece that goes over the valve which I believe to be an adapter. Do they simply provide one adapter because it is cheaper and you can move it from one tire to the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T19:40:50.173" Title="Why does my road bike come with only one valve adapter?" Tags="&lt;presta&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="95" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="64" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:43:57.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've run into this issue recently, too.  Luckily, I'm in the shoe business and have easy access to custom-made orthotics.  I'd highly recommend visiting a local pedorthist who can fit your feet correctly in your cycling shoes to ensure proper blood flow to all areas of the foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not an option for you, you might consider visiting your LBS for a good fitting on your bike.  This should include proper cleat placement on your footwear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:43:57.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="97" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:45:52.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always maintained the major feature difference b/w road and MTB pedals as being single vs multi release shoe cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road pedals typically only release when you turn the heel of your foot out - hence single release cleat.  MTB pedals are multi-release (i.e. will release if you turn your foot in or out past ~45 degrees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:45:52.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="99" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="94" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:46:28.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you only fill one tire at a time.  The adapter screws off and can be used on either tire if needed.  It can also be easily stored with your patch kit, so it doesn't need to be on the bike.  I only keep one around in case I get stuck with only a schraeder pump at my disposal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-08-25T21:05:41.310" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:05:41.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="94" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:46:37.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can remove the adapter and put it on the rear tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for putting on an adapter is so that you can use air-compression equipment which is available at gas stations etc. You don't actually need it if you have a good pump at home which is two fit (presta and schrader). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:46:37.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="550" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:46:49.903" Score="14" ViewCount="5618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to see more and more frames using investment casting for head tubes, drop outs, seat tubes, etc. Such as the new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wethepeoplebmx.de/hardgoods/frames/cream&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WTP c.r.e.a.m. frame&lt;/a&gt; . It looks nice, but I'm suspect on how much more strength this gives you over traditional welds. Does anyone have more info on this technology?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PIQ4D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJBv9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current version of this frame has a traditional seat tube and head tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For 2014 we have done quite a bit of work to the C.R.E.A.M frame. The&#xA;  advanced invest casting junctions have been replaced with a more&#xA;  conventional welded design. The main reason for this was to make this&#xA;  beautiful frame more affordable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="66" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T18:04:55.920" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T18:04:55.920" Title="What are the advantages of investment casting?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:50:46.727" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at any high end bike and you will find hydraulic disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be people who argue the pros/cons of hydraulic vs mechanical disc brakes but it's hard to deny what the entire industry is putting on their most expensive rigs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ease of stoppage, minimal brake fade and ease of modulation - the hydraulic disc brake wins hands down.  You can hammer downhills w/ disc brakes all day long and your hands don't get tired... try that with old school cantis or v-brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus - disc brakes will maintain stopping power in wet vs a rim brake which will definitely be compromised in wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:50:46.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:51:04.917" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike service guys wrote a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.southcoastbikes.co.uk/articles.asp?article=Care&quot;&gt;blog article&lt;/a&gt; along these lines. You may find it useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article recommends four principals for basic bike care. These are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your tyres pumped &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it lives outside, use it. An unused bike exposed to the elements will fairly quickly rust &amp; seize up &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricate - little &amp; often, less is more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your cables and bring back tension where needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T20:18:37.003" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T20:18:37.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:51:21.220" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly it depends on where and how far you commute, and road conditions (sandy, snow, salt etc etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a minimum what I do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Daily&lt;/strong&gt;: check tire air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weekly&lt;/strong&gt;: Check brake pad wear, tire wear, clean/wipe down entire bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Monthly&lt;/strong&gt;: Check chain tension, chainring/cogs for wear, lube chain, adjust brakes, oil all pivot points on derailleurs, brakes etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Annually&lt;/strong&gt;: complete tear down, inspection and reassembly with synthetic grease on all bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-09-23T20:28:55.513" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T20:28:55.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:52:30.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of advantages to disc brakes while mountain biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, disc brakes give much better feedback to the lever with almost no fiddling with them.  Rim brakes can be set up to work as well, but it has been a long process every time I've tried it.  Rim breaks also can cause problems by heating up the rim itself, and as a result the air in your tires.  It may seem silly, but you can blow out a tube with enough heat.  There is also a problem with &quot;brake fade&quot; as the pads heat up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for riding in the wet, I have never had a problem with my BB7's stopping my over-sized self in the wet.  Even in rain puddles up to the bottom bracket.  I have also never had to maintain the brakes during a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:52:30.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="52" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:55:03.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just go grab yourself a tube repair kit.  They usually come with a few patches, some rubber cement, and something to scuff up the rubber of the tube.  Next, scuff up the tube around the puncture so that the cement can stick.  Apply the cement around the puncture and make sure to let it dry.  Then put the patch on and apply plenty of pressure for about a minute or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:55:03.990" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="140" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:56:16.663" Score="18" ViewCount="1119" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano has new models of their groupsets every year but the lines generally keep the same names. This makes it difficult to figure out what year/version a particular bike has. Is there an easy way to figure this out and also determine which components/groupsets are better than others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if I have Tiagra derailleurs from 2009 would they be better than Sora derailleurs from 2010 for a road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T18:39:37.947" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T02:51:31.043" Title="How can I tell which road bike components/groupsets are better?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="94" CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:58:05.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The adapter is only meant to be used while pumping up the tire. You shouldn't keep it installed while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many bicycle pumps can be used with both presta and shrader valves, but I'd reccomend that you keep a pump around that can pump presta natively so that you never need to mess with the valve adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T20:58:05.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:03:44.713" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being a big guy (~400lbs), I do a lot of damage to my bikes, so I check things more often and most of the time there isn't a problem. It's just better to double check.  So as a result, here is my paranoid check schedule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When needed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake fine adjust (at the lever to maintain feel).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain lube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain cleaning (if it has been wet out, this can be more often than below).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean disc brakes with rubbing alcohol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Daily:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire pressure by feel (&lt;em&gt;squeeeeze&lt;/em&gt;, it's like a hug for your tires!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake feel (give it a good hard stab on my way out of the driveway).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every 3 rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accurate tire pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weekly:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset adjustment.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a quick check, takes all of 30 seconds if it isn't out of adjustment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visually check the brakes for any damage or maladjustment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monthly:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom bracket adjustment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel bearing check.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accessory tightness (is that rear rack still attached?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lube rear cog bearings with chain lube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every 3 months:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain ring bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal bearings and make sure they're tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T17:47:58.417" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T17:47:58.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:06:31.620" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmm, we're kind of hitting most of the answer but not all of it (in my opinion that is!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its probably better to ask this the other way round - why not use a road pedal on a mountain bike...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a road bike you're generally going to keep your foot in the pedal, you're only going to take it out to stop so therefore you want it to be as simple and as light as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a MTB you're liable to have your foot on and off more often, you're also likely to want to be able to stomp your foot onto a MTB pedal and have it stay there so it needs to have a larger platform area. You could also make an argument about MTB shoes being softer but the designs tend to be driven by competition and so that's probably more coincidence than anything else. If we're talking about using toeclips then clearly you'll need bigger pedals and clips for MTB boots than road shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And weight &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; matter - it may only be a few 10s of grams but a few here and a few there will add up and all other things being equal less weight will make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use clipless pedals - which I recommend - and I have one pair of shoes that I use on all my bikes, some of the pedals are fairly minimal for road, some clearly MTB, some hybrid but more MTB than not and &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; work with the same SPD cleat. Paradoxically my current setup has double sided pedals on the &quot;road&quot; bike and single sided on the MTB type pedals on my shopping bike...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why road pedals? Assuming clipless and further assuming that you will only wear cycling shoes then you don't need the &quot;complexity&quot; (no difference in my pedals) or the weight of a full platform - so why have it? But the real difference will be in the shoes you chose to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As I final thought I actually have two pairs of shoes - one waterproof - and a pair of sandals and they all have the same cleat so that I can use whichever is appropriate to the weather on whichever bike I happen to be out on.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:06:31.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:06:55.650" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the best way to show off the hard work you've put into developing all those muscles :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:06:55.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:13:00.733" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way that I've found to get them to stop squeaking is to burn the water off.  Big steep hill and stop at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for performance, I don't notice any difference in the feel of my BB7's in the wet vs. the dry after a couple seconds of use.  Even in rain puddles up to the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:13:00.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:16:57.637" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference probably arises because there is more tension being exerted on the chain when you are cycling as compared to the bike being up on a stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screws on the dérailleur (as you probably know) are for setting it to stop at the right place (ie not to come off either towards the wheel or off the small gear). Do you have shifters which move the dérailleur a fixed amount (indexed?) or do you just have levers? On mine if there are problems shifting between the gears then I have to fiddle with an adjuster at the shifter, some dérailleurs also have adjusters at the dérailleur itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a Shimano rear dérailleur (or a front one for that matter) go to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp&quot;&gt;Shimano Technical Documents site&lt;/a&gt; and see if your model is listed, check there for a guide to setting up your specific model and troubleshooting it once you have set it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:16:57.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:20:13.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine had a similar problem lately, and it turned out that her cable was damaged in the housing and was slowly lengthening as it degraded.  It took her several shops to find the problem, but eventually they did.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pulling the cable out of the sheathing is easy and should eliminate the cable as a possible culprit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:20:13.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="64" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:20:17.973" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been suffering from this recently now that I've upped my mileage to 40+ mile rides. My solution was 3 fold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Starting the ride with my shoes quite loose. I have Shimano road / race shoes with 2 velcro straps and a ratchet strap across the top of my foot. I found that I was ratcheting the shoes down too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Cleat position. Try experimenting with your cleats in different positions, I've found having my cleats at the rear most setting, allows some of the pressure to be taken off the balls of my feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Insoles - I've bought some decent insoles as I have quite a high instep, which means all the pressure gets put through the ball of my foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:20:17.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9973" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:26:27.867" Score="42" ViewCount="179110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently the cranks on my bike started to creak.&#xA;I checked with my usual &quot;bike-bible&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=123&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt;. They recommended dis-assemble, lubricate, re-assemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I did that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove cranks.&#xA;Remove spindle.&#xA;Clean.&#xA;Lubricate.&#xA;Reassemble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the creak is still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(To find out the source-area of the sound I had a friend riding the bike slowly while I ran alongside listening. And the sound where coming from the area of the bottom bracket/cranks. I am happy no neighbor saw me...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each revelation of the cranks there are two creak-noises. &#xA;If I, when on the bike, push down with both feet I hear a noise. Turn 180 degrees without pressure, push down again and there is the noise again.&#xA;If I am &quot;too soft&quot;, low pressure there are no sound.&#xA;Since I have clips I have tried to only work with one foot to keep a constant load during a revelation, there where no detectable sound then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any idea what is wrong on the bike?&#xA;And how I should fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;/Leif&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="26" LastEditorUserId="27" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T10:47:27.737" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T14:22:58.447" Title="Creaking from cranks/spindle. How to fix?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:37:36.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the creak is coming from your cranks? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be the rear hub, it could be the pedals themselves, it could be some combination of things which when you put your weight on them causes a creak. Are you putting extra weight on the bars when you get the creak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had creaks from: the seatpost, the headset, the rear hub, the front hub, the brakes, the pedals and of course the cranks/spindle at various times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a discussion about a perpetual squeak on cycle-chat here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclechat.net/topic/67337-the-squeak-goes-on/&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclechat.net/topic/67337-the-squeak-goes-on/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because the creak occurs when you put pressure on one part it doesn't mean it's that part creaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:37:36.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:40:50.973" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issues riding on pre-built 26&quot; mountain bike wheels.  I'm 6'5&quot; and weigh ~400lbs, so I break stuff left and right (including frame welds).  I have found two things that broke my wheel-breaking streak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I found was the &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/frames/pugsley_frame/&quot;&gt;Surly Pugsley&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/endomorph_tire/&quot;&gt;Endomorph&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/larry_tire/&quot;&gt;Larry&lt;/a&gt;) tires that fit on it.  The 26&quot;x4&quot; tires are &lt;strong&gt;massive&lt;/strong&gt;, and absorb any blow without threat to the wheels.  At the same time, I also went with wheels based around &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/large_marge/&quot;&gt;Large Marge&lt;/a&gt; rims, which have never needed to be trued (even through the frame break!).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I found was beefy, hand built, wheels.  My second bike is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/frames/karate_monkey_frame/&quot;&gt;Surly Karate Monkey&lt;/a&gt; (a 29er) which I had wheels built for using &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/hubs/&quot;&gt;36 hole hubs&lt;/a&gt; (again a Surly product).  This wheel shows a bit more wear and tear (after 5 months of riding), but it hasn't broken anything.  I also run higher volume (but nowhere near the Endomorph) tires on this bike, with a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/big_apple&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Big Apples&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom line:&lt;/strong&gt;  If your current equipment can't work for you, go big.  It will cost you a lot up front, but save a ton in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;I swear I don't work for Surly, though my bikes make it sound like I do.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:40:50.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="131" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:47:44.297" Score="28" ViewCount="172750" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between &quot;clincher&quot; and &quot;tubular&quot; tires?  I'm just a casual road cyclist at this point and don't put any more than 200 miles in over the course of the week.  I'm looking to upgrade to some better, lighter wheels, but want to make sure I go with the correct type.  I'm looking for something that will be easy to fix on the road and doesn't add a lot of complication when problems spring up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastEditorUserId="1050" LastEditDate="2011-05-12T20:20:33.673" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T08:25:19.297" Title="What are the differences between &quot;clincher&quot; and &quot;tubular&quot; tires?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="52" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:48:11.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go buy yourself a repair kit for about £5-6 pounds. These would include the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Tyre levers - something to remove the tyre !!&#xA;2) Repair patches&#xA;3) Emery cloth - To roughen up the tube surface.&#xA;4) Tube of glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't got quick release wheels, make sure you take something to undue the wheels nuts. I learnt this the hard way when I first started riding my fixed wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:48:11.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="160" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:50:39.537" Score="15" ViewCount="7292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Hayes Nine hydraulic disc brakes on my mountain bike. I have recently replaced the brake pads and after that it seems that the pads are almost touching the rotor. &#xA;How can I adjust it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have come across the term &quot;bleeding the brakes&quot;, but not exactly sure what it involves and if it applies here. Is it complicated? any special tools required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my previous bike I had cable disc brakes and the maintenance was pretty straight forward, but the hydraulics seem like a black magic to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="29" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T03:04:34.887" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T17:24:47.200" Title="Hydraulic Disc Brakes Maintenance" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="128" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:51:24.620" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want simple and easy to fix then you sure as heck don't want tubulars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone else will probably provide more details and links, but clinchers are rims/wheels with a tube, then a tire is mounted over the tube and the bead of the tire is hooked under a lip on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_wheel#Tubular_or_sew-up_rims&quot;&gt;Tubular rims have no lip&lt;/a&gt;.  The tire encases the tube completely and is sewn in typically.  SO fixing a flat means cutting open the tire and patching the tube, then sewing it back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire assembly is glued to the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat from brakes can melt the glue supposedly and cause tires to roll off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rolling resistance used to be much better on tubulars.  Unless you are a purist or a pro I don't think there is a reason to go with tubulars these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2010-08-25T21:59:13.070" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:59:13.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="139" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:51:57.860" Score="42" ViewCount="101611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride less than 200 miles a week, and I'm at about the 200 mile mark on my new road bike.  Most of my riding is done on the road in an urban city, so there is a lot of odd, unnatural debris.  My LBS told me to lube my chain every 150 miles, but I've read conflicting opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often should I be lubing my chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2010-08-27T06:01:21.190" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T19:11:36.843" Title="How often should I lube my chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:57:40.467" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't tell us at what pressure did you inflate your tires and that's a important thing when it comes to pinching the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bike tires can be easily inflated up to 7-8 bars (100-115 psi) and for your weight, I think this would be enough to protect your tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a trekking bike and inflate the tires to 4.5 bars (65psi), similar weight as you and I don't have problems with pinched tires. Granted, the tire dimension is bigger, but the pressure is also half of what the road tire would have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:57:40.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="278" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:58:22.960" Score="6" ViewCount="12234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went through a couple of chains on my fixie bike, but I was not too happy with any of them.&#xA;Basically they seemed pretty noisy when more pressure was applied where cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you recommend one that would be both strong and quiet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T19:50:44.947" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T03:14:49.560" Title="Quiet and strong chain recommendation for fixed gear commuter bike" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="128" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:58:41.250" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clinchers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheaper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more common &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheels are more common&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easier to patch on the road, no need for gluing, stretching tire, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you flat, you can't really ride on it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some say a lower quality ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will always be heavier (tube, tire, clincher interface)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tubulars&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the lightest practical tubulars will always be lighter than the lightest clincher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you flat, you can ride on it for a little longer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if glued properly and the tire will stay on the rim even if it flats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ride quality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;costs more (rims, tubulars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more difficult to maintain / repatch as an individual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you could get tire/rim seperation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:58:41.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:59:32.853" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely lube the bike after cleaning the drivetrain, or after riding in the rain. In terms of adding lube in between cleanings, every week or two should be fine, more often if the drivetrain is getting noisy. Just a few drops of lube should be enough, unless you ride on very dirty roads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T21:59:32.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:12:30.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my hybrid I have a schrader valve on the front wheel (the tube hasn't had a flat yet so I've not changed the inner) and a presta valve on the back. The nut that holds the presta valve to the rim seems to prevent any &quot;hernia&quot; from occurring, although occasionally I burst a rear tube when pumping it up too vigorously (it appears to &quot;hernia&quot; through the hole slightly and causes a burst around the base of the valve). I always tighten the nut after inflation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the presta valve on the back is that the size of inner tube I use only comes in presta valve versions at Halfords which is where, through pure force of habit, I end up buying replacement inner tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T22:12:30.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:12:42.587" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lubricate when needed.  I don't think it's possible to put a mile marker on when to lube.  I think most people add chain lube too often.  Too much can cause debris to build up on the chain.  Too little lube can cause unnecessary friction; but you'll know pretty quickly by the looks (and possibly sound) of it if you have too little lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe your chain off before you add&#xA;more lube.[*]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the color black?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it greasy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe all that schmutz off until it's&#xA;looking dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add lube while rotating cranks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lube the night before you ride: this&#xA;gives the lube a chance to 'spread'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe the excess off immediately&#xA;before you ride - but not until dry&#xA;as above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;^ [*]. Wiping off the chain is best done in a work stand or while the bike is in a position where you can rotate the crankarm such that you can hold a rag to the chain while the chain is moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T12:55:01.170" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T12:55:01.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="108" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:15:04.283" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically the majority of their yearly R&amp;amp;D is spent on their top of the line group, then they will trickle down it's technology to the next lower group, and continue that way, so usually, this years tiagra is close to last years 105, etc.   The major thing to look for is # of speeds in a group, weight, and finish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_0042A_001/SI_0042A_001_En_v1_m56577569830614850.pdf&quot;&gt;2010 Sora(3400) set is a 9 speed,&lt;/a&gt; where the 2009 tiagra is a 9 speed - the major difference is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_0042A_001/SI_0042A_001_En_v1_m56577569830614850.pdf&quot;&gt;thumb button of Sora(3400)&lt;/a&gt; versus the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_6LP0B_001/SI-6LP0B-001-ENG_v1_m56577569830670794.pdf&quot;&gt;finger paddle of Tiagra(4500)&lt;/a&gt;, a substantial difference.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the quality goes 2200 &amp;lt; Sora &amp;lt; Tiagra &amp;lt; 105 &amp;lt; ultegra &amp;lt; dura Ace&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="245" LastEditDate="2010-10-07T02:51:31.043" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T02:51:31.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="144" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:18:52.610" Score="48" ViewCount="6706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently lost the keys to my lock and had to borrow a bolt cutter to free my bike. It was a bit of an eye opener to realise a) just how easy it was for the bolt cutters to cut through my D Lock (&amp;lt;10 seconds), and b) that nobody on a busy town shopping street batted an eyelid at me doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When choosing a new lock, what should I look for in terms of build material or design that would make it harder to cut through (using relatively small/discrete bolt cutters)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T17:05:26.773" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T17:07:01.117" Title="Best type of bike lock (materials, style, etc.)" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:19:07.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try the Izumi 1-1/8&quot; V super-tough track chain. It's expensive, but very good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T03:09:12.193" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T03:09:12.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:20:30.453" Score="19" ViewCount="55499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a trekking bike with a 63mm fork which has a lockout feature enabling the control of the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you explain when should I lock the fork, in what position and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One obvious example would be when climbing hills, one should lock the fork in minimum suspension (almost no suspension, the fork is stiff/hard as if there is no suspension at all). The reason is to prevent that the part of the energy is lost on the amortization...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, what are other examples? What should one do when going down the hill? Or going really fast? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T14:48:55.950" Title="When should I use lockout feature on my fork?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:23:43.820" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get the kryptonite fahgettaboutit - as small as possible.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000OZ9VLU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kryptonite 997986 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock,Black Mini &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best lock out there. Because the shackle is 18mm thick, I don't think you could cut it with bolt cutters, so you would need a hydraulic jack -- but the opening is too small for a jack to get through -- that's the main reason to go for a smaller lock, so there is no room for the jack; or, a disc grinder to get thru it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2018-10-02T17:07:01.117" LastActivityDate="2018-10-02T17:07:01.117" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:24:42.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/secure/bike-lock-guide/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a nice bike lock guide, and make sure you browse the comments, there are some good info there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is this little trick my friend does... he has a good U-Lock but, he also uses a cheap chain lock. His reasoning is that the thief usually carries one specialized tool and would probably skip his bike, because it would require fiddling with two completely different set of tools. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="84" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T22:24:42.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="143" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:25:39.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any time you're climbing and can handle the obstacles without suspension.  The force of your foot gnashing down the pedal is going to compress the suspension, thus sapping some of your precious force (and thus, speed).  Also good for any time you don't need suspension due to good surface quality.  For example, the well maintained fire-road leading to where you want to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T22:25:39.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:25:47.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every 150 miles sounds like an awful lot, but then I guess I don't cycle as much as you.  &quot;Little &amp;amp; Often&quot; is the best advice I've heard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T22:25:47.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="143" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:27:42.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my hybrid, I keep the front suspension locked at maximum height when I'm on the road/flat cycle route. If I go off a flat route onto a more lumpy one, or get to a particularly bad section of road for pot holes (like the A6 as you come into Little Hulton from Horwich) then I unlock the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when I have the suspension locked at maximum height I feel as though I'm getting more power for my energy expenditure (although this is totally subjective and could be completely the opposite to what is actually the case), and it feels like it takes more enbergy to do the same stretch of road when I have the suspension unlocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T22:27:42.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="159" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:33:11.183" Score="5" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cannondale M300 with a 7-speed drivetrain.  The parts are fairly worn and I am considering converting to a 9-speed as 7-speed components are getting harder to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parts do I need to consider to replace the drive-train?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T07:32:57.503" Title="What parts do I need to upgrade my drivetrain?" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:34:20.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride 250KM a week and I give it a squirt just before my long ride on the weekends. You can't really damage it by over lubing the chain. Sure if you store it inside too much lube can make the chain drip. If you do it just before a ride then no dripping in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-05-15T17:47:24.300" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T17:47:24.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:36:46.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been a long time since I did my 7 - 9 conversion but I believe I needed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new cassette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shifter for rear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new cassette mount thing (not the hub but I'm blanking on the name)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also need a new front shifter since a 9 speed chain is thinner but I managed to make both front and rear work just fine. I squeezed the front one down a bit to make it a bit narrower. Been using mine for 7 years or so now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T22:36:46.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:37:43.087" Score="17" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smaller hole in the rim is good (presta +)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;schrader has piece that inserts into the valve (screws in) with a spring mechanism to seal it - these parts sometimes fail (schrader -)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;presta uses tire pressure to seal it (presta +)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rocks can lodge in uncapped schrader and cause leaks (schrader -)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;presta does not need a valve cap to keep rocks out (presta +)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;presta has a locknut to prevent valve movement (presta +)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can prep a presta valve tire for installation without a pump - using your mouth (presta +)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presta is better but is insignificant for most people. Use the tube that fits your rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T22:37:43.087" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="79" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:39:41.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming we're taling clipless since we're talking racing. I've owned a number of SPD pedals and always found them lacking. I prefer Time Pedals and raced x-country on them for years. I own a pair of Alium's. When I bought them (5 years ago) no SPD kept as clean as they did. Speedplay and Crank Bros are also supposed to clear mud well but I've never tried them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately this is a personal preference. See if you can get on a few different pedals at your LBS and read some reviews in magazines and on forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T22:39:41.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="157" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:44:28.400" Score="18" ViewCount="969" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where are the best places to find bike maps with local routes and trails?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Places I typically reference when searching for this includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most local bike shops (LBS) have local maps available or for sale.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Employees of any LBS are often avid riders and will hold a plethora of knowledge about the local area and trails.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Local trail clubs (typically volunteers that help maintain trails in an area) can be a resource to direct you to finding maps or trail information.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your local Chamber of Commerce or Parks &amp;amp; Rec type of department will typically have maps of local bike routes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Google Maps has recently introduced the ability to find directions from one place to another by bike.  For certain metro areas they will route you along known bike routes or trails. When doing directions click on the &quot;Bike&quot; icon to tailor it specifically for bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please feel free to add more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="90" LastEditDate="2010-08-25T22:52:43.247" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T05:41:10.447" Title="Where can I find local bike routes?" Tags="&lt;maps&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="143" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:45:40.753" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anytime the fork bob is robbing you of power. That can include flats, sprints, climbing... Best advice is probably to try it out on all the terrains you ride and decide where it works and where it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T22:45:40.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:49:17.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Runkeeper.com can have some routes but the only ones I find for my area is the ones I've added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mapmyride.com/&lt;/a&gt; is another good resource. Those are the ones I use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T22:49:17.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:51:25.627" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use google maps, and click on the bike to see local bike paths and trails. (still in beta but very good nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikely.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikely.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridethecity.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ridethecity.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedaling.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pedaling.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are some of the more popular routing sites, I'm sure there are more but that should get you started :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also (added by editor)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ridewithgps.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeroutetoaster.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bikeroutetoaster.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.strava.com/activities/search&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.strava.com/activities/search&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T05:41:10.447" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T05:41:10.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:53:16.430" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched to using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pocket-lint.com/review/2192/specialized-armadillo-tyres-cycling-puncture&quot;&gt;Specialized Armadillo&lt;/a&gt; a while ago because of frequent punctures, and I haven't had any since making the switch. I'd highly recommend them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T22:53:16.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2010-08-25T22:57:31.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the specifics of your setup, you may need to replace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Shifter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette Hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also have to change your dropout spacing, and may need to re-dish the wheel to maintain proper alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T07:32:57.503" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T07:32:57.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-08-25T23:03:42.067" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This document covers all your questions, and is from the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/wp-content/themes/hdb/pdf/45-14550DEnglishForWeb.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/wp-content/themes/hdb/pdf/45-14550DEnglishForWeb.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like pad replacement/adjustment is easy enough, and you may need a kit for bleeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T23:03:42.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="168" CreationDate="2010-08-25T23:07:28.687" Score="8" ViewCount="1507" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often guidance will be given to tighten a nut to &quot;20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm)&quot; or something along those lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to ensure you tighten things up, but don't over-tighten? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to do it other than by measuring the force?  If measuring, how do you measure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="90" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T07:23:46.647" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T07:23:46.647" Title="Tightening a nut too much" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="171" CreationDate="2010-08-25T23:22:59.247" Score="8" ViewCount="4367" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have my back wheel gears in either the lowest gear or highest gear, my chain clicks as I pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T23:47:32.353" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T13:40:15.687" Title="Chain clicks when the back wheel is in highest and lowest gears" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;clicking&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="63" CreationDate="2010-08-25T23:23:19.490" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this a few times where the axle is just a tad too long.  No matter how tight you clamp your QR, it won't be snug enough.  Did you buy the frame and build it up yourself?  If it is the axle, you can pop the wheel out, remove the QR and take a file to one end or the other.  Another possibility is the the wheel was built incorrectly and the axle actually needs to be moved back to center.  Are the axle lengths on either side of the lock nuts (these are the nuts that hold the cones in place on the hub) equal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T23:23:19.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="179" CreationDate="2010-08-25T23:36:13.730" Score="27" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should be in the basic toolkit for someone that wants to maintain their own bicycle?&#xA;I'm looking for something for your average day to day maintenance and tools that I will get the most use out of. Ex: I don't think I need a chain oil/lube/clean contraption...(do I?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some hex wrenches, a few tire levers for changing tires, random screwdrivers, and pliers. Do I need a chain tool? Do I need a bike stand?  (I sometimes invert the bike and do tuning that way)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T10:31:23.957" Title="Basic toolkit for bicycle maintenance" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2010-08-25T23:37:50.247" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you are positive it's coming form the bottom bracket, and you have already R&amp;amp;R'd them, try using Teflon tape instead (plumber’s tape), wrap it around the cups and reinstall them - this should fix any squeaks in the BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T23:37:50.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T23:38:12.073" Score="21" ViewCount="13586" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are tons that are out there for recording routes, and such.  There's also the physical mounting.  Is the iPhone actually good/useful for bikers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T18:42:20.030" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T12:51:11.937" Title="What is a good iPhone app for bikers?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;iphone&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="8" ClosedDate="2019-02-24T08:06:00.273" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T04:23:49.213" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-25T23:42:56.793" Score="18" ViewCount="1194" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some bike sharing services out there? I know that there have been some in Europe. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_sharing_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's wikipedia's entry&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one that I heard of recently in NYC.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.transalt.org/campaigns/bike/bikeshare&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.transalt.org/campaigns/bike/bikeshare&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that as cities make themselves more green, these will become part of the norm like rental cars or Zipcar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know of any new ones? Hear of anything starting in your city?&#xA;Anyone out there that is a member of bike sharing services? What worked and didn't work?&#xA;I'm really curious about what can make them successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hope is that this post will generate honest and useful feedback so that companies offering these services or new companies can utilize the info here to improve on current offerings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://travel.stackexchange.com/questions/250/which-european-cities-have-bike-rental-stations&quot;&gt;European cities have bike rental stations?&lt;/a&gt; on Travel.SE. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:14.167" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T03:03:25.290" Title="Bike sharing services and systems" Tags="&lt;reference&gt;&lt;sharing-scheme&gt;" AnswerCount="20" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-29T22:30:59.617" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="161" CreationDate="2010-08-25T23:46:03.677" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench&quot;&gt;Torque Wrench&lt;/a&gt;.  You set how much pressure, and when you tighten to that pressure, the wrench will &quot;click&quot; and not tighten the nut/bolt any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastActivityDate="2010-08-25T23:46:03.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:00:34.563" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second the advice suggesting a small U-lock.  Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html&quot;&gt;see Sheldon Brown's advice&lt;/a&gt; for locking strategy, which has done me well so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T00:00:34.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="786" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:01:50.100" Score="41" ViewCount="125662" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a month when new models come out and dealers discount stock like with cars?  Do they raise prices in the spring and lower them in the winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T13:29:39.663" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T07:28:02.227" Title="At what time of year can I buy a bicycle for the best price?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="162" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:09:02.130" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need to adjust your derailer limit stops (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T00:09:02.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:12:56.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason not yet mentioned is that in summer your legs feel cooler.  But I think the No. 1 reason is psychological - it looks good and all the fast guys do it (sorry ladies, the shaving legs things for girls is so not an issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T00:12:56.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:13:48.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of the jogging apps will work well for on the bicycle as well, since most of the data collection is done via the GPS.  As for the mounts, I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkgeek.com/electronics/cell-phone/df25/&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; used a bit and it looks fairly sturdy.  Not sure about the attachment to the bars, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just be careful with the kind of riding you're doing.  An iPhone costs $400 to $600 dollars if you aren't signing a new contract, so if you're doing mountain biking, I would stray away from it.  Anything mounted to your bars needs to be able to take a beating.  If I take my iPhone on a mountain ride, I usually have it tucked way deep in my Camelbak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my bikes, I use a simple bike computer (for mileage, time moving, etc), and an iPod Shuffle (first generation) for music.  The Shuffle actually attaches to the back of my helmet quite well, keeping it and the headphones cables out of my way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T00:13:48.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="170" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:19:40.257" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not what you're looking for, but... if you live near a college campus and are willing to buy used, the end of May might be a good time to check Craigslist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T00:19:40.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="272" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:21:33.140" Score="11" ViewCount="15846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried sanding them down just a bit, cleaning the brake surface on the wheels, and this does stop them from squealing for a day or two, but it always comes back.  I'm using Kool-stop pads if it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T00:34:19.893" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T11:56:10.583" Title="How do I get my brakes to stop squealing" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-10-15T01:13:14.760" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="175" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:28:10.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The major cause of squealing is oil on your rotors/pads. Could be just from touching or leaking braking fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use rubbing alcohol on pads (after sanding) and on rotors. That's how I fixed mine a year ago and never heard a squeal again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T00:28:10.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="164" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:37:43.153" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would classify tools into two groups.  The ones you ride with, and the ones you keep at home.  There may be a bunch of overlap, but it is harder to work with a multi-purpose tool, so if you end up using one tool all the time, a purpose-specific tool may be worth the purchase.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools to carry with you:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire levers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Patch Kit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=bicycle+multi+tool&quot;&gt;Multi Tool&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=bicycle+multi+tool&quot;&gt;plethora&lt;/a&gt; of these.  I'd suggest visiting your LBS to find one you like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should have all of the hex wrenches you need for on the route fixes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leatherman.com/&quot;&gt;Leatherman&lt;/a&gt; (optional).&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you need it, you need it.  Until then, it's just dead weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools for at home:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hex wrenches (optional if your Multi Tool has them already).&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bikes tend to use hex bolts all over the place, so a nice set of these can make your life easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular wrenches (optional based on the bike).&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Axel nuts, pedals, and a few other odd bits might use these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I believe everything on my bike is a 15mm wrench.  So maybe just need one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also may be included in your Multi Tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain lube.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I prefer &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000ZJRHES&quot;&gt;T9&lt;/a&gt; lube, but I know a lot of people who run straight 30w engine oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, you need lube.  Otherwise your bike will end up sounding like a hamster wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00094CWA8&quot;&gt;Chain Cleaner&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you ride enough that you are posing this question, you will probably need one eventually.  Road grime sticks to chain lube and can grind away at the soft internal workings of your drive train.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're also pretty cheap and really easy to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Tools:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain breaker.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is useful if you need to replace or shorten your chain.  Until then, it isn't really needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May be included in your Multi Tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike stand.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Almost never necessary.  &lt;strong&gt;Nice&lt;/strong&gt;, but not necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of my bike work is done with the bike upside down on the carpet at home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000OZDI4G&quot;&gt;Cone wrenches&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Really nice if you know how to adjust your bearings.  I don't, so I take it to someone who does when they are out of adjustment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dsporting&amp;amp;field-keywords=bottom+bracket+tool&quot;&gt;Bottom bracket tool&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of the time your bottom bracket will not need maintenance, so it is easy to take it to your LBS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is everything I can think of right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T00:37:43.153" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="164" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:38:10.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My kit includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;portable shop stand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;allen keys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screw drivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain breaker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cassette tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BB puller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wire cutters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain whip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T00:38:10.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:40:38.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.everytrail.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.everytrail.com/&lt;/a&gt; service. They have blackberry and iphone apps.&#xA;I stash the iphone under the seat (in a under the seat pouch) and it records all my movements and then I can upload it to the server and facebook share ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T00:40:38.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="175" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:48:35.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the adjustment of your pads.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;great article&lt;/a&gt; on how to do this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T00:48:35.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="298" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:05:00.290" Score="6" ViewCount="3775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to convert my fixed gear 700c bike (raleigh rush hour) to coaster break bike. Can anyone recomend the best way to do this. Can anyone recomend a good coaster rear hub or coaster rear wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T19:49:11.420" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T22:32:24.270" Title="Convert fixed gear to coaster bike" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="306" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:05:37.623" Score="8" ViewCount="2390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently put new tires on my bike, and in so doing, removed and replaced the wheels.  It seems that now my chain has more slack in it than before, and if I pedal backwards while in the smaller cog in the main set of gears the chain rubs on the deraillieur.  Is this normal?  Why is my chain more slack now that it was before, if the wheels are the same?  What shold I do to fix the problem?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="109" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T20:58:34.777" Title="How tight should my chain be?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="219" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:08:55.493" Score="24" ViewCount="27196" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I have an 80's raleigh bike, reassembled from spare parts.  I'm wondering what the best way to get more speed out of the bike is.  Wheels?  Gears?  Lighter gear? Different pedals? I'm rather fond of the frame, so I'd rather not replace that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="109" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-31T19:30:58.677" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T11:01:09.097" Title="How can you speed a road-bike up?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="828" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:11:44.680" Score="19" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke a couple of spokes on my wheel, now it's all bent, how can I align it back again? What kind of tools do I need to do a good job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T21:55:36.673" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T01:14:02.933" Title="How do I align a wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:12:25.307" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://runkeeper.com&quot;&gt;runkeeper&lt;/a&gt; app for iphone. The app has an option to pick which type of activity and cycling is an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep the iphone in my running armband.  I didn't want to buy a mount just because of my luck with riding in poor weather and the running band does provide a small amount of protection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one catch is batter power.  On my old 3G I had to turn off wifi and make sure I had a full charge before heading out. I haven't done any long rides with the iphone 4 but in general the battery last much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T01:12:25.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="237" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:14:00.673" Score="45" ViewCount="33533" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the efficiency of hub gears compared to derailleurs? I know that hub gears are not as efficient. Apart from being heavier, how much will I lose in performance if I use hub gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="26152" LastEditDate="2017-01-30T22:11:57.220" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T09:18:18.250" Title="What's the efficiency of hub gears compared to derailleurs?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:16:12.857" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly. Get a new bike. Technology has changed greatly since the 80's bikes are much lighter, comfortable and stiffer thanks to space age technologies like carbon fiber. Can't afford it, check craigslist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said. If your are really attached to your bike. You will see the best performance improvement in new tires and wheels.  When you accelerate your bike you have to put almost twice as much energy/gram into the wheels  get them moving. This is due to the fact that you not only get them translating horizontally, but to also have to get them rotating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T01:16:12.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="200" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:17:43.857" Score="13" ViewCount="1834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couple of years ago I switched from using a normal pedal to using a clipless pedal. It takes a little while to get used to. Now, to be able to use it optimally I need to learn how to pedal in circles instead of in squares, eg applying the same force during the whole rotation &quot;orbit&quot;. What do I need to think of to be able to pedal properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T18:10:04.763" Title="How can I pedal in circles?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:17:51.967" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing that will make the bike have a higher top speed (on the flats) is changing the gearing.  Bigger rings up front and smaller cogs in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that: start training.  You're the engine, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T01:17:51.967" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="186" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:20:41.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic tool you would need is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=spoke+wrench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spoke wrench&lt;/a&gt;.  This will allow you to pull the rim (by the spokes) back into true.  The spoke wrench is actually turning the spoke nipple out at the rim.  The tool you would need in order to tell if it is true is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=wheel+trueing+stand&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;truing stand&lt;/a&gt;.  The tool you will need to make it all work is your brain.  =-]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T01:20:41.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="190" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:25:16.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told to imagine that you are trying to scrape some mud off your foot. As you pull down from about 1 O'Clock, just as you reach about 5 O'Clock, start to pull your foot back, pointing your toes towards the ground, like trying to scrape some mud off the front of your shoe.  I am not too sure where you should stop this pulling, but I would say it is about 8 O'Clock, since by that stage your other foot should be starting to put some pressure on the other crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T01:25:16.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="190" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:25:38.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that the best time to practice making good circular rotations is when I am completely out of gear (doing 20mph in the granny gear, for example).  I ride a single speed, so this is pretty easy for me.  Being out of gear allows me to feel how circular my movements really are.  If I'm not pulling back at the bottom of my stroke and then up the back side, I feel the bike lurching around under me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This helped me, maybe it can help you as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T01:25:38.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="190" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:55:18.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I certainly am no expert but some things that helped me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a set of rollers (not a stand/trainer) but rollers can help smooth your motion &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;thinking in circles&quot; helps as well.  Visualize the foot/pedal motion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T14:06:24.033" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T14:06:24.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:57:18.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't the bike.  It is the rider.  Unless you are at 6% body fat and have done all you can to improve your output your best improvement in speed is yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T01:57:18.983" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="215" CreationDate="2010-08-26T02:29:09.047" Score="5" ViewCount="1525" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/frames/pugsley_frame/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Pugsley&lt;/a&gt; which I love dearly.  I want to add a rack to it so that I can do simple &quot;grocery getter&quot; tasks on my way to and from work, but I'm afraid that standard racks will not work because of the special nature of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any racks out there that will work with a Pugsley?  Are there any modifications that need to be made for them to work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-24T16:56:12.650" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T16:56:12.650" Title="What racks will fit on a Pugsley?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2010-08-26T02:31:37.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried Runkeeper also but I'm much happier with Runmeter: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abvio.com/runmeter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.abvio.com/runmeter/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does the same GPS tracking that other apps do, but its interface is the nicest I've seen (especially important when you just want to start riding!). It has nifty data export features, too -- you can get all of your data as a CSV file if you want. Because I'm a nerd, I've written a few tools to plot the data and visualize my improvement offline -- I'll share them if anyone's interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The developer has three apps with slightly different names, but I think that's a marketing thing. As far as I know, all three work identically (allowing you to track any kind if activity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="113" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T05:32:20.513" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T05:32:20.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="201" CreationDate="2010-08-26T02:47:45.763" Score="16" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how to tell when your disk brake pads need replacing.  My front seems to be not stopping as quickly as it used to, or as I would like. I know this could be road grime build up, but I am not sure the indicators for replacement time for the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2010-08-28T10:49:28.497" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T01:50:31.687" Title="When to change disk brake pads" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="190" CreationDate="2010-08-26T02:57:47.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mountain Biking is the best thing. Was just reading a training article by Chris Carmicheal (trained Lance Armstrong) and in studies he did mountain bikers had the best natural spin. They figure it came from climbing on loose dirt while seated to make sure you had good traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good exercise is to pedal with one foot. I do this once a week at the end of a ride. Only for a block or two but it really emphasizes the lack of pedaling in a circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T02:57:47.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="199" CreationDate="2010-08-26T03:02:04.890" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I change mine as soon as they don't work as expected. You usually notices this when you have to apply an unusual amount of force on he levers to make the bike brake. It really depends on how much you use the bike, it can be enough to go out in the rain and brake hard a couple of times to destroy a set of break pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-04-23T18:36:39.163" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T18:36:39.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="170" CreationDate="2010-08-26T03:11:50.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;January, Most of the bike shops sell a lot of bicycles during Christmas and they want to get rid of all extra stock when the holidays are over. This might depend on the region where you live, as Christmas time might not be suitable for biking and bike shops will thus not sell a lot of bikes. But it's at least true in a bit warmer places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T03:11:50.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="170" CreationDate="2010-08-26T03:19:15.777" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I am in NY, all of the dealers tend to have big sales in Feb-March to make room for the new stock.  I bought my bike @30% off, which is a pretty big savings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T03:19:15.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="231" CreationDate="2010-08-26T03:36:52.733" Score="17" ViewCount="3864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for one that attaches to your bike and easily detaches so you can take it with you.  I usually ride with a small Timbuktu messenger style bag (really small, it's about the size of a large book) and I carry my wallet, phone, keys and stuff in it.  Is there something for bikes so that I can easily attach and detach from the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T21:55:19.170" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T21:55:19.170" Title="What is a good small bicycle bag to store your gear and/or personal things?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="205" CreationDate="2010-08-26T03:47:56.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually just found this great bag that got high reviews.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00165P4X6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Avenir Bigmouth Velcro Seat Bag&lt;/a&gt;. It easily attaches/detaches. According to one reviewer, it takes less than 15 secs.&#xA;This is large enough for my stuff and a few essential tools that were recommended &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/164/basic-toolkit-for-bicycle-maintenance/179#179&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; in this forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzBca.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T16:47:12.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2010-08-26T03:55:50.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In NY, there are many people, including me, with &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001JPS200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this lock&lt;/a&gt;.  The one downside is its weight, ~6 lbs! I usually carry in a backpack or wear it around my waist(that's what the badass bike messengers here do...I'm not one of them.  :)  )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T03:55:50.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="212" CreationDate="2010-08-26T04:08:36.510" Score="7" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;We inherited a Huffy Stone Mountain 26&quot; mountain bike. We live on the 3rd floor of a walkup. It is quite difficult for her to carry the bike up and down the stairs.  It has a fork with a spring suspension. Other parts of the bike look normal. When I pick up the bike, it seems to be front heavy.&#xA;I'm not sure how much the bike is worth now...maybe $50 bucks maybe a little more? Is it worth trying to tweak it to make it lighter or should I just trade this one in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T05:38:35.227" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T05:38:35.227" Title="How to make my wife's bike lighter? Is it worth the cost?" Tags="&lt;price&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="205" CreationDate="2010-08-26T04:29:18.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to look into pannier bags (if you have a rack on the back of your bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gli2d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are all sorts of sizes, styles, and types of bags, including those large enough for groceries. I got a pair from Walmart (I can't remember which brand) for about $25 that I use to commute to and from work. They're big enough to carry all of my work clothes, lunch, and water plus some extra. They're also water-resistant, which is nice when I get caught in a sudden rainstorm (happens a lot in Colorado). I always have a spare ziploc bag to toss my phone into, just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bags hook on to the edge of the rack and have an elastic strap that runs around the bottom of the bag and the &quot;leg&quot; of the rack. I have a set of bungie cords that strap everything down tight so they don't bounce loose. It takes me about 30 seconds to take the bags off, and mine came with shoulder straps, which makes them easy to carry into the office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Performance Bicycle has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes//CatalogSearchResultView?storeId=10052&amp;amp;catalogId=10551&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;pageSize=16&amp;amp;beginIndex=0&amp;amp;sortBy=Dollar+Rank//1&amp;amp;searchType=resultSet&amp;amp;cn1=&amp;amp;searchTerm=pannier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nice selection of pannier-style bags&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T04:29:18.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-26T04:29:42.523" Score="22" ViewCount="2261" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a good book what would it be? I'm pretty sure I can find stuff on YouTube (any particular user?).  Any blogs out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T22:51:58.243" Title="Where to find good bicycle maintenance info?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;resource&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="27" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T04:29:42.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2010-08-26T04:32:24.567" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;These two books came highly recommended to me, and together they cover about every bike part your bike may have. (The road bike book doesn't cover &quot;V&quot; style brakes, since they're considered mountain bike parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1884737706&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; &gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QXzec.jpg&quot; width=&quot;150&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/193138259X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N8bOd.jpg&quot; width=&quot;200&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastEditorUserId="28" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T04:40:21.980" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T04:40:21.980" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T04:32:24.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="208" CreationDate="2010-08-26T04:35:17.393" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Difficult to say without knowing more about the bike, but I'd trade it in for a better bike; Huffy has a rep for low-end, tank-like bikes. From your description, you'd need to replace the frame and front fork to see any significant weight savings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something with an aluminum frame like a hybrid bike would probably be easier to carry up the stairs, even though aluminum will give you a harsher ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension forks are heavy, particularly on low-end bikes. Suspension usually makes sense for off-road riding. If your wife mostly rides on pavement, you can get a bike without suspension of any kind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T04:35:17.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2010-08-26T04:53:00.533" Score="18" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3935400/BikeMaintenanceBook.pdf&quot;&gt;A Bit More Than Basic Bicycle Maintenance for the Average Cyclist&lt;/a&gt;, at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtofixbikes.ca/&quot;&gt;How to Fix  Bikes&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt; has articles on many aspects of bike maintenance &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com&quot;&gt;The Park Tool website&lt;/a&gt; has instructions for most basic repair operations, and their handy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot;&gt;bike map&lt;/a&gt; is great when you don't know a headset from a handlebar. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletutor.com/&quot;&gt;Bicycle Tutor&lt;/a&gt; has videos demonstrating many repair jobs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beachbike's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/user/beachbikes#g/u&quot;&gt;Youtube channel&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of information specific to beach cruisers. The videos on internally geared hubs are helpful and clear. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T22:46:26.920" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T22:46:26.920" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T04:53:00.533" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="205" CreationDate="2010-08-26T05:04:09.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that handlebar bags are the ultimate in convenience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description, a medium-sized handlebar bag might do the trick if you can mount one. I love my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thetouringstore.com/ORTLIEB/Ort%20Ultimate%20Bags/ULT%205%20PAGE.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ortlieb Ultimate handlebar bag&lt;/a&gt;, but it's not a cheap item; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/category/4500847&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here are some others&lt;/a&gt;. FOr maximum convenience, look for something that clips onto and off of the bike quickly.  Most bike shops carry handlebar bags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T05:04:09.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="197" CreationDate="2010-08-26T05:15:17.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll leave it to others to post a full answer, but I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://thelazyrando.wordpress.com/2009/06/19/surly-pugsley-rack-options/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; about this very topic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T05:15:17.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="188" CreationDate="2010-08-26T05:19:40.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, it depends on the hub and the cyclist. My gut and my experience with the two 3-speed hub geared bikes I own (SRAM and Nexus hubs) suggests to me that not much in the way of pedaling energy is sacrificed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-01T02:32:50.683" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T02:32:50.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="188" CreationDate="2010-08-26T05:24:07.327" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the model you get, but the efficiency is generally comparable.  Derailleurs that are in really good condition and properly lubed will be more efficient, but marginally, and will often be less efficient due to real world conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least that's what the wiki says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hub_gear&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hub_gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one road bike with a 3x9 derailleur, a smaller bike with a 7 speed nexus, and a brompton that actually has a hub AND a derailleur for a low/high gear.  The other considerations (tire size, pressure, etc) probably matter far more than the gear.  For easy shifting and maintenance, hubs, no question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newer hubs are generally considered more efficient (Shimano Alfine vs Nexus, that sort of thing).  Also, Shimano has an 11 speed coming out that has a different type of lube than usual, and is supposed to have improved efficiency, but I don't think we'll know much till its out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there's the Rohloff.  Way too expensive to buy, but shows what a good hub can pull off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hubstripping.wordpress.com/speedhub-rohloff/&quot;&gt;http://hubstripping.wordpress.com/speedhub-rohloff/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T05:24:07.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="190" CreationDate="2010-08-26T05:47:06.290" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A technique which may help you get a more efficient pedaling stroke is an exercise called &lt;strong&gt;isolated leg&lt;/strong&gt;. With your bicycle on a trainer or on a slight uphill, unclip your left leg and pedal using only your right leg for 30-60 strokes. Then switch and do the same for your other leg. This exercise will give a very natural feel to how your legs should be rotating to achieve an efficient pedaling stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T05:47:06.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2010-08-26T05:53:32.627" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gabe,  If you love the frame, and are willing to spend the money to keep it, start upgrading everything else.  Start with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels/tires - rotating mass will slow you down the most - go to aluminum wheels and thin/light tires size 23 or 25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom Crank - Once again rotating mass, you can get some hollow core cranks, and adjust the chainring sizes to the biggest you can push.  You can save a few grams by going to a compact crank versus a triple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifters/derailleur(s) - get some aero shifters/brakes, and upgrade to a lighter front/rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat post, handlebars, stem - On an old raleigh, they are probably steel - you can get inexpensive aluminum replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat - get rid of the OG heavy seat and get something more comfortable and lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From expensive and most effective, to least expensive/effective, thats the list off the top of my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck on your decision, and keep those old Raleighs going, they are great bikes :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="1373" LastEditDate="2011-08-31T21:26:58.400" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T21:26:58.400" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="409" CreationDate="2010-08-26T06:00:37.767" Score="11" ViewCount="5585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a shimano dynamo hub on the front of my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it need any special maintenance, or maybe it needs just a little synthetic grease once a year, like a normal front hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-10T14:51:43.947" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T06:31:23.803" Title="What kind of maintenance does a shimano dynamo hub need?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="275" CreationDate="2010-08-26T06:16:02.370" Score="19" ViewCount="1319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to have my bike frame repainted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do before I give it to the paint shop? How would they like to have it prepared?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T05:47:04.390" Title="How to prepare a frame for a new paintjob" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="406" CreationDate="2010-08-26T07:04:10.370" Score="6" ViewCount="7730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have struggled for a while with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iliotibial_Band_Syndrome&quot;&gt;Illiotibial Band&lt;/a&gt; pain or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iliotibial_Band_Syndrome&quot;&gt;Illiotibial Band Friction Syndrome&lt;/a&gt; when cycling and running, here are some of the things that I have done to get rid of the pain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it is inflammed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drugs.com/mtm/cataflam.html&quot;&gt;Cataflam&lt;/a&gt; (a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory - &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-steroidal_anti-inflammatory_drug&quot;&gt;NSAID&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transact patches (topical anti-inflammatory)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prevention:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hamstring strectches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Massage (cross friction on ITB)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strengthening of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gluteus_medius_muscle&quot;&gt;gluteus medius&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stretching of gluteus medius and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tensor_fasciae_latae&quot;&gt;TFL&lt;/a&gt; (Tensor Fascia Latae)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foam &lt;a href=&quot;http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-679683274642732742#&quot;&gt;roller&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike setup correction (moving saddle forward worked for me)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some good resources on the Internet, here are some I have read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.irishcycling.com/publish/news/art_4249.shtml&quot;&gt;Cycling Problems - ITB Pain And Tightness&lt;/a&gt;, by Karen Doyle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.itbs.info/&quot;&gt;ITBS Help Site&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have you done to get rid of ITBS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T04:23:38.503" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T09:58:11.070" Title="How can I get rid of I.T. Band pain caused by cycling?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2010-08-26T07:06:54.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a great article on MTBR about their &lt;a href=&quot;http://reviews.mtbr.com/blog/mountain-bike-iphone-apps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;best iPhone app&lt;/a&gt;s, here is what they found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 - &lt;strong&gt;“The Bike Computer”&lt;/strong&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.everytrail.com/iphone.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.everytrail.com/iphone.php&lt;/a&gt;) FREE - Provides a large display of speed and distance based on your iPhone’s GPS. Also contains a bunch of other GPS based features, but the clean and simple bike computer is the best part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJgPg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJgPg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Bike Computer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reviews.mtbr.com/files/2009/11/thebikecomputer.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mtbr.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 - &lt;strong&gt;iTunes&lt;/strong&gt; - keeps you rockin’ in the woods! It’s already on your iPhone, just load it up with your favorite songs and go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FHVpz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FHVpz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;iTunes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reviews.mtbr.com/files/2009/11/itunes_shot.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mtbr.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 - &lt;strong&gt;“Clinometer”&lt;/strong&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaincode.com/products/clinometer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.plaincode.com/products/clinometer/&lt;/a&gt; ) $.99 - For measuring head angles, seat tube angles, etc… (thanks to Scot Nicol for the tip on this one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bira.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bira.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clinometer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reviews.mtbr.com/files/2009/11/clinometer.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mtbr.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - &lt;strong&gt;“MotionX GPS”&lt;/strong&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://gps.motionx.com/video/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://gps.motionx.com/video/&lt;/a&gt; ) $2.99 (free lite version also available) - For biking and almost any outdoor sport enthusiast. This is a well developed application with tons of features but is still easy to use. Very slick user interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FUCvr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FUCvr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MotionX GPS&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reviews.mtbr.com/files/2009/11/motionxgps.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mtbr.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - &lt;strong&gt;“Bicycle Gear Calculator - Bike Gears”&lt;/strong&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jpmartineau.com/iphone/bicycle-gear-calculator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.jpmartineau.com/iphone/bicycle-gear-calculator/&lt;/a&gt; ) $4.99 - A classic bike app, use it to calculate gear ratios, gear inches, and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUKFL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUKFL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bicycle Gear Calculator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://reviews.mtbr.com/files/2009/11/bikegears.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mtbr.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://reviews.mtbr.com/blog/mountain-bike-iphone-apps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original article&lt;/a&gt; on MTBR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-02-16T12:51:11.937" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T12:51:11.937" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T07:06:54.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2010-08-26T07:11:29.903" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first rule is make sure the &lt;strong&gt;rear derailleur&lt;/strong&gt; is adjusted &lt;strong&gt;correctly&lt;/strong&gt; before adjusting the front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three adjustments that you can do on the front derailleur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp Position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low limit stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High limit stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clamp Position&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can adjust the &lt;strong&gt;height&lt;/strong&gt; of the derailleur, normally this is recommended as a 2mm clearance between the bottom of the outer cage and the teeth of the large chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0k8Ph.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front derailleur height adjustment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Picture from &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-front-derailer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bicycletutor.com&lt;/a&gt; site&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also adjust the &lt;strong&gt;rotational angle&lt;/strong&gt; of the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWZYe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front derailleur rotational angle adjustment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Picture from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Parktool&lt;/a&gt; site&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Limit stops&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Limit stops are for adjusting the inward and outward travel of the front derailleur. Limit stops are marked &quot;L&quot; for Low and &quot;H&quot; for High. The L-stop will stop the movement of the derailleur toward the smallest chainring. The H-stop will stop the movement of the derailleur toward the largest chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; on the Parktool site that gives a lot of detail on adjusting the front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2018-12-28T23:48:28.963" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T23:48:28.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="251" CreationDate="2010-08-26T07:19:36.033" Score="9" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that there are a number of calculations (220 - age etc.) for calculating max HR - are there any better formulas or empirical ways of calculating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-14T05:32:51.487" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T05:32:51.487" Title="What is the best way to calculate my maximum heart rate?" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="132" CreationDate="2010-08-26T07:20:24.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that it is best to clean and lube your chain after every ride.  The better you maintain your chain the longer it will last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clean your chain you can either use a chain cleaning tool, I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-cyclone-chain-scrubber-cm-5-2/rp-prod8207&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one from Park Tool&lt;/a&gt; which is excellent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBH3n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KBH3n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tool Chain Cleaning Tool&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.parktool.com/assets/img/product/_productDetail/CM-5.2_001.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;parktool.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative is to put a SRAM powerlink in your chain:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ibus.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SRAM powerlink&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and remove your chain and clean it in with a solvent like paraffin (kerosene to Americans)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of lubricant is also debatable, speak to someone at your LBS and get their recommendations for your riding conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2020-12-19T14:59:31.930" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T14:59:31.930" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="230" CreationDate="2010-08-26T07:49:57.807" Score="7" ViewCount="1249" Body="&lt;p&gt;What effect does the length of the cage on a rear derailleur have on bike setup/shifting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T07:36:09.950" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T07:36:09.950" Title="Effect of Rear Derailleur Cage Length" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="232" CreationDate="2010-08-26T08:29:58.480" Score="25" ViewCount="1612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my bicycle in a typical urban commute setting. No extreme MTB, but it still accumulates some dust and grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I wash my bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T20:37:03.427" Title="How to wash a bike properly?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-03-10T00:49:47.400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-26T08:37:55.430" Score="9" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently (at the time of original posting) taken up cycling a recumbent (a now discontinued Azub Eco 20&quot; bicycle). My perineum thanks me, but immediately after a ride I feel a bit lopsided (more than usual). I presume I'm not sitting quite straight on the bike (or the seat isn't quite straight) so I am always leaning slightly. Is there an easy way to check whether I'm correctly positioned? (Or is it just my body that's asymmetric?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2017-04-24T15:49:46.100" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T15:49:46.100" Title="How do I make sure I'm sitting straight on a recumbent?" Tags="&lt;recumbent&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="227" CreationDate="2010-08-26T08:58:01.403" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The  cage length is what determines the rear dérailleur’s total capacity. The total capacity equates to how much slack chain the dérailleur can handle. Sheldon calculates it as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(number of teeth on largest rear sprocket - number of teeth on smallest rear sprocket)     &#xA;+ (number of teeth on largest front chaining - number of teeth on smallest front chaining).&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my hybrid I have an 11 - 34 cassette on the back giving a difference of 23, and a 48-38-28 set of chainings on the front giving me a difference of 20. This means I need a rear dérailleur with a cage capable of dealing with a total capacity of 43.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon's page about dérailleur selection is here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailleur.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailleur.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a capacity measurement given with dérailleurs which equates to the largest sprocket size it can cope with in terms of the number of teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T09:03:48.977" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T09:03:48.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="205" CreationDate="2010-08-26T09:07:37.967" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saddle Bag&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7nXW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRKpDsxlCaHoe6pHxMP8brvsPTBQDpIpf1iAjQdfV7HsMrKgVE&amp;amp;t=1&amp;amp;usg=__si5TaM9FoH9oGr1yWyGGzQiLgRQ=&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may seem too small at first. But check what I can fit in with my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/dirtbag-seatpack-ec008414&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specialized Saddle Bag&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two spare inner tube boxes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cell phone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Train travel card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 tire levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small toolset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T09:07:37.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="228" CreationDate="2010-08-26T09:13:31.017" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingtipsblog.com/2010/02/how-to-wash-bike/&quot;&gt;Cycling Tips&lt;/a&gt; has some useful pointers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Degrease the drivetrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash the degreaser off the drivetrain with the brush and sponge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash the rest of the bike with soapy water and the sponge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse the bike off with the clean&#xA;water and sponge (or a low pressure&#xA;hose).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can dry the bike by wiping it&#xA;down with a cloth or let it air dry.&#xA;It’s a matter of preference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish the frame off with Armor-All&#xA;or give a light wipe with silicon&#xA;spray to deter the next lot of mud or&#xA;dust from sticking to the frame too&#xA;quickly.  For obvious reasons don’t&#xA;wipe on the handlebars, brake hoods,&#xA;saddle, or wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T09:13:31.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2010-08-26T09:20:38.343" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abvio.com/cyclemeter/&quot;&gt;Cyclemeter&lt;/a&gt; is my favorite ride tracker.  If you are a bike commuter, you will appreciate seeing your splits and daily times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.endomondo.com/&quot;&gt;Endomondo&lt;/a&gt; is also a nice app, and runs on a variety of other smartphones.  It's free, but more web-based, whereas cyclemeter is more phone-only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T09:20:38.343" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T09:20:38.343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="225" CreationDate="2010-08-26T09:25:17.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb you're right about the &quot;220-minus-age&quot; thing. I've found this to be pretty accurate over the last 3-4 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Empirical way you say? Keep a moderate speed for a good while and then pace yourself until you're about to faint. That should give an accurate indication of your maximum HR :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e., the max HR is individual so you can only find your own by achieving it. No model or calculation can be anything but a &quot;best guess&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T09:25:17.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="273" CreationDate="2010-08-26T09:26:28.450" Score="19" ViewCount="2234" Body="&lt;p&gt;About four or so years ago, I hurt my knee on a fairly long ride (~150km or so).  It was really my own fault, as I hadn't been training regularly, and I pushed myself a bit too hard.  By the time I arrived home, my left knee had swollen up and was in quite a bit of pain.  I stopped riding for about a half year, and when I started up again I took things lightly and tried to train more regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast-forward to today.  I am riding 20km per day, and am spinning at high cadence when I ride.  I try to stretch both my knees before/after riding, but I still feel some soreness or pain when I ride.  Although I haven't yet experienced anything as bad as the original injury, I'm worried that if I will get injured on the next long-distance ride that I take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good exercises that I can do to prevent re-injuring my knees during future rides?  Are there any particular stretches which are helpful in loosening up the knee before riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T20:22:10.757" Title="What are some good exercises to prevent knee pain?" Tags="&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-26T09:59:14.737" Score="13" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there lock products out there specifically designed for easy handling when locked unlocked dozens of times a day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a normal, chain-based lock at the moment and I'm annoyed because&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing constant slight damage to the frame when removing the lock from the bicycle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I need to carry a key at all times, fumble it from my pocket when it's time to go (often in a thankless, noisy, roadside environment), and fumble the lock back onto the bicycle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any solutions out there that make frequent use as painless, and still as secure, as possible? I'm thinking about something that works like a remote-controlled car door lock. It should, however, still be possible to attach the bike to an object to prevent it from getting carried away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/141/best-bike-lock&quot;&gt;best bike lock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T20:24:21.390" Title="Lock for extremely frequent use" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="188" CreationDate="2010-08-26T09:59:17.793" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on the rider and &lt;strong&gt;what you mean by efficiency&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is easy to keep a hub gear running well for years, but an unmaintained derailleur will become inefficient very quickly.  A hub gear allows the chain to be fully enclosed, for all but the most dedicated cyclist; an enclosed chain will be more efficient as it will be cleaner and better oiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An enclose chain allows you to arrive at work, with clean cloths and no need to change, this can save lots of time.  Not having to spend time adjusting a derailleur or cleaning your chain also increase the efficiency of your life.&#xA;However it takes longer to remove the wheel if you have hub gears and an enclosed chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear shifting efficiency. This is most important in cities with many traffic lights to stop at. With a derailleur, you must shift before you stop, or you'll be starting in a high gear. With an IGH, you can forget about shifting while you are braking, and just select the right gear for the next acceleration a second before you start pedaling. It's a huge difference for a commuter, irrelevant for a racer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think on a road bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hub gears are more efficient if you wish to use a bike to make lot of short trips as part of your &lt;strong&gt;day to day life&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But derailleurs are more efficient if you consider &lt;strong&gt;going fast on a bike to be very important&lt;/strong&gt; and are willing to put the work into the bike that is needed to keep it in a very good state of maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(I also like hub brakes for the same reason)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2019-10-29T09:18:18.250" LastActivityDate="2019-10-29T09:18:18.250" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="253" CreationDate="2010-08-26T10:10:16.073" Score="5" ViewCount="1412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a cheap frame off craigslist because I want to build myself a fixed gear bike.  When I turn the fork, it feels like there is sand in the bearings.  How do I go about taking the headset apart so that I can check the bearings.  What should I be looking for when I pull it apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know this is almost 2 questions, but they are so closely related, if needed, I'll split it up)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T13:42:38.340" Title="How do I disassemble my headset? How do I know if I need to replace it" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2010-08-26T10:10:35.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every few years I am getting creaks from this area in my MTB, it's invariably the bottom bracket giving out and needing to be replaced. If you cycle a lot in the mud, rain etc., it's not abnormal to replace your BB every three years or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you have a full suspension frame, it could be joint bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T10:10:35.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="242" CreationDate="2010-08-26T10:15:08.530" Score="19" ViewCount="5736" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clipless shoes are the ones with cleats and &lt;strong&gt;clips&lt;/strong&gt; on the pedal that the cleat &lt;strong&gt;clips&lt;/strong&gt; into.  So why in the world are the called clipless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T07:21:44.103" Title="Why the heck are cleated shoes called clipless?" Tags="&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2010-08-26T10:24:07.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that stretching is the most important thing for preventing this injury from reoccurring in this case. Stretching after the exercise is certainly a good habit to keep. But, as you pointed out, what caused the original injury in the first place was the 150km ride with no proper training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have to do now is to &lt;strong&gt;build up&lt;/strong&gt; the distance more slowly. Maybe 20 km is still too much for now. If you cycle 5 days a week, that's already 100 km a week, which is a significant training volume for beginners. For now, reduce the distance to a point that you're comfortable with, i.e. no pain. Then you can increase the distance every week, but no more than 10% per week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't help, go and see a doctor or physiotherapist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T10:24:07.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="240" CreationDate="2010-08-26T10:34:32.000" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to do with the difference between pedals with toe clips and clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pedals with Toe Clips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/acNxn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clipless Pedals (and shoes)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zaeHF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clipless shoes are for the clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clipless&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clipless refers to the lack of an&#xA;  external toe clip, but not to&#xA;  be confused with platform pedals&#xA;  without toe clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="131" LastEditDate="2010-08-27T08:55:50.917" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T08:55:50.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2010-08-26T10:35:17.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aesthetical reasons trump all else. Hairy limbs peeking out of tight lycra just look nasty. Contemplate attached picture to see what looks better, Astarloa's legs or arms?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BxAZV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T10:35:17.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-26T11:39:14.923" Score="195" ViewCount="190863" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question and its answers list the names of bike parts and cycling concepts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some Rules&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you only put one term per answer!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to include an image if applicable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Include sources that contain detailed information&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a link to the index in this question using edit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I made this a community wiki, so that anyone will be able to edit it, and to stop rep-hoarding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a handy reference at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool Co. website&lt;/a&gt;, a bike repair map; it's a diagram of a bike with all the parts labeled, and is very handy! At the moment, the diagram is up at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;parktool.com/blog/repair-help&lt;/a&gt;. (They've changed the URL in the past, so this link may break.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A road bike has the following parts (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/wrench_images/bicycle_parts_labeled.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/idu5B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/idu5B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mountain bike has the following parts (&lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8a/Bicycle_diagram-en.svg/850px-Bicycle_diagram-en.svg.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ab4v5.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ab4v5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: This page is meant to identify what things or concepts are (as per &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/80/glossary-threads&quot;&gt;this thread in meta&lt;/a&gt;). If you want to recommend an accessory or a specific product you've found handy, please use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory&quot;&gt;accessories page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Contents&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/62590/32314&quot;&gt;Axle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/42804/&quot;&gt;Axle Nuts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/55802/32314&quot;&gt;BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2758#2758&quot;&gt;Bearing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/42193/&quot;&gt;Bonk/Bonking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/13051/32314&quot;&gt;Bottle Cage / Bottle Holder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2759#2759&quot;&gt;Bottom Bracket&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/74190/&quot;&gt;Boom/Boom Tube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/37137/7044&quot;&gt;Brazed Frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/6918#6918&quot;&gt;Brifter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/67892/38558&quot;&gt;BSD (Bead Seat Diameter)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/887#887&quot;&gt;BSO/Bike-Shaped-Object&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/20810/7044&quot;&gt;Cable Pull&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/667#667&quot;&gt;Cable Stretcher&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/451#451&quot;&gt;Cadence&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2793#2793&quot;&gt;Chain Gauge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/21177/8&quot;&gt;Chain Guard/Cover&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3480#3480&quot;&gt;Chain Tool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3042#3042&quot;&gt;Chain Tug/Chain Tensioner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4477#4477&quot;&gt;Chainstay Length&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/56029/32314&quot;&gt;Chainsuck&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/5154#5154&quot;&gt;Chamois&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/245#245&quot;&gt;Clipless Pedals&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/62698/32314&quot;&gt;Coaster Brake (foot brake / pedal brake)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3157#3157&quot;&gt;Crank&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/64473#64473&quot;&gt;Derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3665#3665&quot;&gt;Derailer Hanger/Derailleur Ranger&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4425#4425&quot;&gt;Disc Hub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1602#1602&quot;&gt;Door Zone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/23046/8273&quot;&gt;Dropout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/64406#64406&quot;&gt;Dropper Post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1417#1417&quot;&gt;Dunlop Valve&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;e&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2803#2803&quot;&gt;Fender/Mudguard/Mudflaps&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/271#271&quot;&gt;Fixed-Gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1982#1982&quot;&gt;Flip-Flop Hub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/263#263&quot;&gt;Folding Bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/5583#5583&quot;&gt;Frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1863#1863&quot;&gt;Gear Inches&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/7787#7787&quot;&gt;Groupset&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/322#322&quot;&gt;Handlebars&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/10078/4239&quot;&gt;Headset&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/571#571&quot;&gt;Hose Clamp aka Jubilee Clip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3404#3404&quot;&gt;Hub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4478#4478&quot;&gt;Hub Skewer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1728#1728&quot;&gt;Internally-Geared Hub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;j&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/74186/&quot;&gt;Keel Tube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/5584#5584&quot;&gt;Lawyer lips/lawyer tabs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/74187/&quot;&gt;Lateral Tube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/254#254&quot;&gt;LBS/Local Bike Shop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1862#1862&quot;&gt;Luggage Carrier/Rack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/37138/&quot;&gt;Lugged Frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4483#4483&quot;&gt;Master Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4539#4539&quot;&gt;Mixte&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/13057/8&quot;&gt;Mountain Bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;n&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;o&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/402#402&quot;&gt;Pannier&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/58543/&quot;&gt;Play&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/7175/8&quot;&gt;Power Meter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/283#283&quot;&gt;Presta Valve/Presta Tube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/37145/&quot;&gt;Pump Peg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/64382/&quot;&gt;Q-Factor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/404#404&quot;&gt;Quick-Release&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/41694/32314&quot;&gt;REI (Recreational Equipment Inc)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/825#825&quot;&gt;Rim&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/59097/24228&quot;&gt;Rim Tape&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2812#2812&quot;&gt;Saddle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/403#403&quot;&gt;Saddlebag&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/284#284&quot;&gt;Schrader Valve/ Schrader Tube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/35893/32314&quot;&gt;Single-speed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4478#4478&quot;&gt;Skewer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/22974/8273&quot;&gt;Spider&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/13056/8&quot;&gt;Spoke&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/270#270&quot;&gt;Stem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/64405/38558&quot;&gt;Suspension Fork/Rear Shock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/41723/&quot;&gt;Through/Thru Axle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/44014/&quot;&gt;Tire Clearance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1960#1960&quot;&gt;Tire Lever/Tire Iron&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/22938/7044&quot;&gt;Tire Saver&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2792#2792&quot;&gt;Track Pump/Floor Pump&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/260#260&quot;&gt;Triathalon Bars/Triathlon Bars&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;u&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;v&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/37139/7044&quot;&gt;Welded Frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;x&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;y&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;z&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-12-28T19:25:32.850" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T21:56:51.233" Title="Terminology index - a list of bike part names and cycling concepts" Tags="&lt;terminology&gt;&lt;reference&gt;&lt;canonical-answer&gt;&lt;glossary&gt;" AnswerCount="81" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="157" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T11:39:14.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-26T11:45:01.743" Score="39" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Clipless pedals a.k.a. clip-in or step-in pedals&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedals require a special cleated cycling shoe that locks itself into the pedal's surface. To release a foot/shoe from a clipless pedal, the rider typically twists his/her foot outwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word &amp;quot;clipless&amp;quot; (a rather confusing term) refers to a pedal not having an older style toe clip straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;LOOK Pedals&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKDzq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LOOK Pedals&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LOOK pedals came first and were inspired by ski bindings.  LOOK pedals are commonly used on road bikes. A similar (but incompatible) pedal system is Shimano's SPD-SL system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;SPD Pedals&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFQg1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFQg1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano SPD&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano Pedaling Dynamics or SPD pedals use a cleat that is recessed into the shoe.  This allows the rider to walk normally, which is why this pedal is commonly used in mountain biking or similar disciplines, where a rider may need to walk for short distances over some obstacles. Note that Shimano's SPD-SL system is not compatible with SPD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleats used for these pedals have two holes for screws that go into a shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;SPD-SL&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94mRV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94mRV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SPD-SL&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A type of clipless pedal, cleats and compatible shoes used mostly by road race cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to SPD, this system has bigger cleats which protrude from shoes, making walking in them awkward. Cleats for SPD-SL have three holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;SpeedPlay Pedals&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hf1Nd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SpeedPlay Pedals&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design proprietary to Speedplay products. The spring retention and release mechanism in this design is bolted to the shoe, rather than part of the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Crank Brothers 'Eggbeaters' system&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CCE1X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank Brothers Eggbeaters&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A proprietary design that uses proprietary cleats. Used by Crankbrothers in all their clipless pedals. The most prominent example is the Eggbeaters model range looking very minimalistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Toe Clips a.k.a &amp;quot;Rat trap&amp;quot;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rMcA0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pedal with toe clip and strap&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedals are called so, even though you do clip onto them — because one avoids the need for toe clips and straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word &amp;quot;clipless&amp;quot; (a rather confusing term) refers to a pedal not having these older style toe clip straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer draws heavily from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clipless_pedals#Clipless_pedals&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clipless pedals (Wikipedia).&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T21:43:49.487" CommentCount="7" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T11:45:01.743" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9982" CreationDate="2010-08-26T11:57:48.153" Score="43" ViewCount="36717" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people refer to tires that are more resistant to punctures as &quot;puncture proof&quot; tires.&#xA;For example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/all-condition-armadillo-tyre-ec001821?utm_source=awin&amp;amp;utm_medium=affiliate&amp;amp;utm_campaign=awin&amp;amp;promo=Communities&quot;&gt;Specialized All Condition Armadillo Tyre&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though these tires are not really puncture proof, they do reduce a lot the chances of puncturing. So the advantage is obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, they're not too expensive compared to regular tires. So, I was wondering why people would choose not to use these more resistant tires. What are their disadvantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="131" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T12:06:25.813" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T15:32:03.750" Title="What are the disadvantages of &quot;puncture proof&quot; (or puncture resistant) tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2010-08-26T12:17:46.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are typically heavier than a &quot;normal&quot; tire, so the rotating mass will slow you down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T12:17:46.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-26T12:31:43.900" Score="9" ViewCount="799" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I change my disc-brake pads? How do I avoid letting the fluid out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2010-08-28T10:53:02.967" LastActivityDate="2019-08-14T12:27:50.357" Title="How do I change my disc brake pads?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2010-08-26T12:45:18.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://austinontwowheels.org/2008/08/06/review-axa-defender-rear-wheel-lock/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Axa Defender&lt;/a&gt; that is fixed to the fame of the bike and then locks the wheel; it also has a cable that you can use to lock the bike to the bike stand.  It’s great for a lock on a “everyday” bike, as you can’t forget to take it with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjXdP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of bike lock&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YJoV3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As they are not common in the UK, most people don’t know how to defeat them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always best to combine with a second lock of a different design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T13:30:21.673" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T13:30:21.673" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="225" CreationDate="2010-08-26T13:00:55.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think on a bike it would be harder to reach max HR, but in running it is easy.  Find a hill (say 1/2 KM long) that is reasonably steep.  Warm up for 20 minutes of running, and start doing hill repeats.  Aim for a pace where you can do about 6 repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the first three at increasing paces, and then for 4 and 5 start pushing to the max you can handle.  As jensgram said in his answer, push till you are about to faint, or vomit, or whatever your body uses to tell you to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is pretty darn close to your max HR.  At least functionally, before your body ups and quits on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T13:00:55.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28" CreationDate="2010-08-26T13:06:02.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They should be lubricated but not dirty.  That said, there is some amount of dirt that can't be helped - it's a bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to clean the cogs/cassette/freewheel by taking out the rear wheel, spraying on a small amount of degreaser and flossing between the cogs with a rag.  Get the rag right in between two cogs and move it back and forth.  You'll notice that the cassette rotates as you floss left and the rag picks up dirt as you floss right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T13:06:02.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="238" CreationDate="2010-08-26T13:42:38.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crunchy headset == bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming the stem is already out of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the stack height before you take it apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a threaded headset, you will need 2 wrenches. One to loosen the locknut an the other to hold the adjustable race nut steady.  You may need a specialty headset wrench to get at the adjustable race nut since they are very narrow compared to your standard adjustable wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have loosened the locknut, you should be able to unscrew it by hand and unscrew the adjustable race and slide the fork out. Caution: loose bearings may start to fall out.  Since you reported a crunchy headset, just replace the bearings regardless of the shape they are in. Pay attention to the bearing sizes on the top and bottom of the fork - they may be different.  Pay attention to how many bearings are in the top and bottom (hopefully it is the right number - though not impossible to figure out later). Maybe they are in a cage which is easier to handle but not as smooth as loose bearings when the headset is properly adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you pull everything out, clean it all off and look for dents and divits in the headset parts where the bearings rest.  Be sure to check the crown race too (it rests on the base of the fork)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no dents or divits and everything looks like balls will roll smoothly on them, then grease the cups (don't worry about too much grease right now - excess will come out when it's reassembled), insert new bearings (they'll just stick to the grease) and reassemble.  The hard part is tightening the adjustable race and lock nut so that the headset is neither too loose nor too tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip: tighten the adjustable cup by hand until it is just snug and unscrew it 1/8 of a turn then screw on the locknut (don't forget any washers and spacers).  Use your wrenches to hold the adjustable cup in place while tightening the locknut.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test your work by rotating the fork as if you were turning left/right and also by pulling the tongs of the fork gently back and forth as if you slammed on the brakes.  If it's not right, loosen up and try again.  Adjust how much you hand tighten - more or less according to what is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are dents and divits, you will want to buy a new headset.  Remember the stack height measurement?  Now you will want to get a headset with the same stack height.  Hopefully your LBS has one that fits your bike because you are also going to want to go visit them and ask how much it costs to have them remove the old and insert the new headtube races.  If you buy it from them, it will likely be free.  Also you will need them to remove the crown race and pop the new one on.  There are specialized tools for installing and removing headset and crown races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T13:42:38.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-26T13:47:24.720" Score="44" Body="&lt;h2&gt;LBS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Local_bike_shop&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt; is the acronym commonly used for &lt;b&gt;L&lt;/b&gt;ocal &lt;b&gt;B&lt;/b&gt;ike &lt;b&gt;S&lt;/b&gt;hop. The term is usually used when comparing small, privately owned shops with large chains, big box stores, and internet shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best local bike shops usually have trained staff who have many years of experience in selling, maintaining, and repairing bicycles and have a well-equipped repair workshop. They can special order parts and let you know if a modification you want to make will work -- and how to make it work. As with all things, local bike shops vary in terms of their experience (and attitude) and it pays to shop around to find a LBS that matches your interests and orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large department or chain stores, on the other hand, often sell BSOs that they assemble using staff who often have little to no background in bicycle mechanics. They cannot repair or maintain the BSOs they sell and your only recourse often is to just return the bicycle if it is still under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/704q7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnprolly/5728618798/&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnprolly/5728618798/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnprolly/5728618798/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T16:48:02.827" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T13:47:24.720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2010-08-26T13:51:45.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High rolling resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T13:51:45.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="175" CreationDate="2010-08-26T13:53:33.123" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brakes have to be toed in.  What that means is that the front of the brake pad has to touch the rim before the back of the brake pad.  It does not have to be an extreme variance but it will make a world of difference when properly adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you have aluminum rims.  I have had the misfortune of working on some bikes with steel rims from which I could not remove the squealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T13:53:33.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="258" CreationDate="2010-08-26T14:00:00.990" Score="18" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to get a Surly Cross-Check but the local bike shop doesn't stock them. They have suggested a 56cm, but I am concerned about the top tube length (I am more legs than torso). Are there proven ways to figure out whether a bike fits other than riding it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T21:14:45.353" Title="How to best determine if a bike will fit without riding it" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="257" CreationDate="2010-08-26T14:05:50.623" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best answer to your question is simply &quot;no.&quot;  Unless you've ridden the exact geometry before, there's no great way to know if your body will enjoy the fit.  Sure, there are MANY adjustments you can do to any bike to get it close, but nothing replaces taking the bike out for 20 miles to find out how your body will respond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, with that said, if you haven't been riding a bike on a regular basis and only plan on riding this a limited amount of time, a good fitter could make a reasonable judgment call without any serious problems occurring later.  The bike can be tuned to your needs, as long as the general size is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="68" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T14:05:50.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2010-08-26T14:07:31.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did something similar a few years back...I hyper-extended my knee and it was swollen and sore for a few months. Never saw a doctor and continued riding once the pain went away. A few months later I put a foot down and my knee popped. Went to see a doctor this time and my ACL was shredded. After surgery, doc said it looked like a frayed rope and had probably been torn for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morale of the story, your knee pain could very well be something more serious. The most important thing is to get the cause of the pain diagnosed so you can treat it properly. To me, it sounds like mild cartilage damage. After a lot of friction on the joint it starts to flare up in an attempt to protect itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T14:07:31.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-26T14:11:20.170" Score="25" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Triathlon bars or Aerobars&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aerodynamic bike handlebars are for racing bicycles and particularly time trial bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Included are narrow, bolt-on extensions that draw the body forward into a tucked position, pursuit  bars that spread the arms of the rider but drops the torso into a slightly lower position, and integrated units that combine elements of both designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triathlon bars are commonly used in triathlons and time trial events on road and track. However, they are illegal in most mass start road races or any other event where drafting is permitted because, while aerodynamically advantageous, they tend to draw the hands away from brakes, make the rider slightly more unstable on the bike, and can be dangerous in the event of an accident. Further, they are not useful in sprints or shorter climbs where power is of greater importance than aerodynamics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a distinct set of aerobars that are utilised in draft legal triathlons on regular road frames. As draft legal (ITU sanctioned) triathlon races require road frames that are UCI legal, a stubby pair of arms has been developed for this style of racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLgbC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_handlebar#Triathlon_or_aero&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_handlebar#Triathlon_or_aero&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beginnertriathlete.com/cms/article-detail.asp?articleid=1414&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.beginnertriathlete.com/cms/article-detail.asp?articleid=1414&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T14:42:41.430" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T14:11:20.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-26T14:46:15.467" Score="-7" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where do you stay when you are on tour?  Hotels?  Campsites? &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/261/stealth-camping&quot;&gt;Stealth Camping&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T14:58:20.123" Title="Where do you sleep while on tour?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2010-08-27T00:49:43.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-26T14:47:51.037" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Folding Bike&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;AKA Folder&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike that's designed to fold down to a small package without disassembly. They usually have smaller wheels, and are designed to be taken on trains and buses. Many transit organizations that don't allow bikes during peak hours will allow folding bikes during these busy times. They also reduce storage space requirements, often useful in city apartments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also bikes that do not fold, but are designed to be taken apart easily, with frame latches, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/404#404&quot;&gt;quick-release&lt;/a&gt; latches, or hybrid folding/unlatching systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qP9w8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Folding bike, ready to ride&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/4446499840/in/set-72157623528349037/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Folding bike, ready to ride&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVlxf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Folding bike, in folded position&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2629625311/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Folding bike, in folded position&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T16:34:27.400" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T14:47:51.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2010-08-26T14:49:00.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have also done some damage to my knees.  I have found that using a knee brace greatly helps to keep my knees working well.  I find that even the extra heat from the knee brace dramatically helps to keep them running smoothly.  I bought mine for $20 at the drug store.  Best bike investment per dollar that I have ever made.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T14:49:00.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="249" CreationDate="2010-08-26T14:53:24.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking you should just be able to take off your wheel and grab them with some needle nose pliers.  I just grab onto the tab (see picture) and slowly ease them out.  Mine are just held in with magnets.  More info is probably needed for a better answer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jDc7S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T14:53:24.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="262" CreationDate="2010-08-26T14:58:20.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mixture of campsites, friends and hotels. If I've got a rest day (staying in one city and checking things out) typically hotel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some friends that just went up to houses and asked if they could camp on the lawn. They rode from Toronto to PEI with no camping fees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T14:58:20.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="257" CreationDate="2010-08-26T15:00:15.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many bike shops do a 'fit' session. Maybe more common for roadies but still useful for any rider. They'll measure you, watch you ride (video probably) and then come up with measurements that you'll be most comfortable on. Those measurements can be matched up against the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My LBS charges $75 but I've seen places charge up to $300.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T15:00:15.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="236" CreationDate="2010-08-26T15:03:02.817" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend kryptonite. The Evolution Mini is used by a number of my friends (messengers) and they use it many times in a day. Keeps things secure and it's small. If you want a bit more flexibility in what you can attach to then go for a larger sized one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kryptonitelock.com/products/list.aspx?cid=1001&amp;amp;scid=1000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.kryptonitelock.com/products/list.aspx?cid=1001&amp;amp;scid=1000&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T15:03:02.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2010-08-26T15:04:19.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask them. Probably strip off all the cables and get it as clean as possible. They'll prboably do the sandblasting but check they may want it to come bare already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T15:04:19.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-26T15:04:34.343" Score="19" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Stem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaches the handlebars to the bike, or, more precisely, to the steerer tube. Stems are designed differently for different headset types (i.e. threaded or threadless). They are also sized to suit different diameter handlebars and in the case of threadless setups, different diameter steerer tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stems of many different lengths and angles are available, so that the rider can position the handlebars where they will be the most comfortable. There are also angle-adjustable stems made, so the rider may change bar positions without removing the handlebars or changing the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_st-z.html#stem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;More information at Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cI22q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Adjustable stem&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/4152225798/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adjustable stem on a touring bike, attached to the headset with risers, with the handlebars removed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E8yrn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E8yrn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://cdn.road.cc/sites/default/files/styles/schema_org/public/how-choose-right-stem-length-august-2018.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;Four different-lengths of threadless steerer.  These clamp around the outside of your bars and the outside of your steerer tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hbo78.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hbo78.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/640x480/800524cb_624a_4332_9c47_32c7e3c939c2_e0fc0d038e37e9ff273792d066cd19a8f038d413.jpeg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt; Some threaded stems - often shaped like a number &lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt; but some have more &amp;quot;rise&amp;quot; to effectively lift the bars up.  These stems clamp the bars, but the other end goes inside the steerer tube and expands outwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6PTY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a6PTY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://www.actionbicycleclub.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/brompton_pink.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt; This folding bike effectively has no stem, with the handlebar mounted straight to the steerer tube.  There's a bend in the steerer which does the same job as the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-08-24T00:00:21.827" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T00:00:21.827" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T15:04:34.343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-26T15:08:53.687" Score="33" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Fixed Gear or Fixed Wheel&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;AKA: Fixie&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fixed-gear bicycle has the rear gear locked to the hub, which fixes the pedals rotation to the rear wheels rotation. In other words, you can't coast; the pedals are always in motion as long as the bike is.  Track bikes are commonly fixed-gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sprocket is screwed directly onto a fixed hub. When the rear wheel turns, the pedals turn in the same direction. This allows a cyclist to stop without using a brake, by resisting the rotation of the cranks, and also to ride in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixed-gear bikes are almost always single-speed (i.e. have only a single gear ratio), but internal-gear hubs without freewheels do exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AH60N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;flip-flop hub on fixie setting&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hub in the picture is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1982#1982&quot;&gt;flip-flop hub&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fixed_gear&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fixed_gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/35893/8273&quot;&gt;Single Speed&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T06:36:45.390" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T15:08:53.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="175" CreationDate="2010-08-26T16:02:12.960" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few causes for brake 'squealing':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New pads.&lt;/strong&gt; After a bit of wear (or sandpapering), the squealing will stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Misalignment.&lt;/strong&gt; As some others have mentioned, misalignment may cause squealing (although it would be reduced with some wear). Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's tips&lt;/a&gt; for alignment suggestions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oil or water on the rim.&lt;/strong&gt; Either of these substances, even in small portions, combined with dirt or debris on the rim can create squealing. Wipe the rims thoroughly on the braking surface, as  well as the pads, with a dry cloth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Incompatible rims/pads.&lt;/strong&gt; No one else has mentioned this, but this is often the most common cause. Rims are generally made from one of two materials: steel or alloy. (You can tell the difference by seeing if a magnet will attract (steel) or not (alloy)). Incidentally, brake pads are made of specific compounds to work on one or the other. Often, using pads designed for alloy rims (like most Kool-Stops) will squeal if used on steel (which I'm guessing you have).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T16:02:12.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2010-08-26T16:06:38.773" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with diagnosing knee pain is there are multiple possible causes. The original cause may not even be in the knee itself! I have a cyclist friend whose knee seized up. He went to a physiotherapist, who explained that the real problem was an extremely tight lower back. The tightening back was tugging at his gluteal muscle (buttock), which in turn was tightening his hamstring - which was pulling his knee out of alignment! His body was actually acting against itself, as each muscle struggled to retain its preferred position. The physio pummelled out his back and glutes, he did back stretches for a few weeks, and everything relaxed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thestretchinghandbook.com/archives/knee-pain.php&quot;&gt;ITBS&lt;/a&gt; for almost a year, caused by a combination of incorrect seat height and an over-aggressive cycling schedule. The iliotibial band is a tendon-like bit of muscle which runs down the outside of the thigh and connects the hip and knee. When it tightens, it pulls at your knee-joint and rubs painfully against the bone, becoming inflamed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this problem, stretching has been surprisingly effective. I stretch the IT band itself, my hamstrings, and my lower back and glutes. The stretches I do are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IT band -&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easyvigour.net.nz/fitness/h_TFL_StrSt.htm&quot;&gt;Standing stretch&lt;/a&gt;. Stand upright and cross one foot behind the other. Then lean towards the foot that is behind the other. Hold this stretch for about 15 to 20 seconds, and then repeat it 3 to 4 times on each leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hamstring -&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exrx.net/Stretches/Hamstrings/Standing.html&quot;&gt;Standing stretch&lt;/a&gt;. Basically, try and touch your toes, although I do this with legs crossed one behind the other. With this one, if you let your upper body just hang loose, you will feel the stretch increase naturally after a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glutes/lower back -&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yogajournal.com/poses/485&quot;&gt;Seated twist&lt;/a&gt;. This is an effective stretch for the big muscles in your buttocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glutes/lower back -&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://yoga.about.com/od/yogaposes/a/supspinaltwist.htm&quot;&gt;Supine spinal twist&lt;/a&gt;. Great for the lower back, and your hips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, these exercises may or may not be helpful for you, depending on the exact cause of your problem. Only a doctor will be able to correctly diagnose your issue. But they're easy to do, safe, free, and may be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T16:06:38.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="305" CreationDate="2010-08-26T16:07:41.190" Score="5" ViewCount="727" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell just the Outboard BB is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2010-08-28T10:54:32.300" LastActivityDate="2010-08-28T10:54:32.300" Title="Which Phil Wood bottom brackets are compatible with Shimano XT cranks?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2010-08-26T16:14:44.783" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Painters don't know anything about bikes.&lt;/strong&gt; If the paint shop is not specifically a bicycle paint shop, they may still offer to strip your bike of components for you. Don't let this happen! Most painters are unfamiliar with the intricacies of bicycle mechanics, and may improperly remove or damage some components, or not know or have the tools to remove others. For example, I've seen the pressed-in cups of the headset get painted over on more than one occasion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remove &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the components.&lt;/strong&gt; If you're not comfortable doing this yourself, a bike shop will be able to correctly do it for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure the painters are aware of what needs to be masked off.&lt;/strong&gt; Areas with exposed threads such as the bottom bracket, water bottle cages, braze-ons for racks, fenders, or brakes should not be painted over! If the paint goes on thick, you might not be able to use these threads without re-tapping them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't worry about frame prep.&lt;/strong&gt; This is what the painters &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; know how to do. They'll know the right methods for removing the old paint, such as sandblasting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If your frame is being sandblasted, worry a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; about frame preparation.&lt;/strong&gt; Figure out what quality tubing your bicycle frame is made of. If it's heavy and thick, don't worry about it. However, if it's a nice, lightweight tubing such as most Reynolds brands, the tubing is in fact very thin at some points, and should not be roughly sandblasted! If the 'sand' is not fine enough, it may dent or severely weaken your frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="28726" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T05:47:04.390" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T05:47:04.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2010-08-26T16:25:31.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To go in a bit more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puncture resistant tires are puncture resistant because they are made out of a thicker, tougher rubber. Thicker and tougher means heavier in every sense. The tire, rim and wheel are the places where weight really matters the most, and even small increases can really slow you down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Puncture Resistance' is more of a marketing scheme than anything else. Regular tires, if kept at their recommended pressure, are already very puncture resistant, but no tire is puncture proof--everyone gets flats. It's a trade-off between a few less flats and a bit more weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perhaps a better investment would be Puncture (or Thorn) Resistant tubes. These tubes are not quite twice the price of a regular tube, are not quite as heavy as a puncture-resistant tire, and still allow you to use any tire you want. Unfortunately, they are a little hard to find sometimes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-08-26T17:53:30.797" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T17:53:30.797" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="274" CreationDate="2010-08-26T16:29:07.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano uses a JIS taper (Japanese Industrial Standard).  Take another look at their catalog and any bottom bracket (there are too many to list) that uses the JIS standard will work with your XT cranks.  DO NOT get the JIS low profile, as those will not fit, stick with plain JIS and you should be GTG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T16:29:07.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2010-08-26T16:33:49.367" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chain noise is not completely avoidable on fixed-gears, due to the stress from chain tension, etc. However, there are many types of chain which would be inappropriate to use and would cause extra noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to purchase a 'track' chain (some are produced by Miche, Izumi, and KMC) and expect to pay $20+ for a quality chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be sure to keep your chain clean and well lubricated! Even on regular bikes, the majority of chain noise comes from a dry chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T16:33:49.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="288" CreationDate="2010-08-26T16:38:24.147" Score="14" ViewCount="15812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an older road bike with 27&quot; wheels.  I am curious if I can mount 700 wheels (typical road size) on it.  Has anyone ever done this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason I am interested in doing this is so that I can have more tire selection.  I like the body positioning on my road bike but since I live in a rural area I do a fair bit of biking on gravel/dirt roads and pathways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-24T22:36:53.713" LastActivityDate="2020-06-29T15:17:26.073" Title="700 wheels on bike made for 27&quot; wheels" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:09:10.253" Score="11" ViewCount="7675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently replaced a chain that got incredibly beat up in the winter (it was rusted, and practically stiff when I removed it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed links from the new chain to match the length of the previous chain. The previous chain was the manufacturer installed stock chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a 3*8 - 24 speed configuration. I usually leave the front derailleur on 3, and make all adjustments on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my bike is on the 4th cog or larger (so 4,3,2,1), the chain will &quot;slip down&quot; to the smaller cog if I pedal backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for example, if I am in 3x4, and I pedal backwards, the chain slips to 3x5. It corrects itself as soon as I start pedaling forward. If I try to pedal backwards any farther though, the chain just wraps around on itself and falls off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger the rear cog (for instance 3x1 or 3x2) - the slower I need to pedal for it to slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All comments &amp;amp; answers are much appreciated :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="138" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T10:39:39.187" Title="How to fix new chain that switches gears when pedaling backwards" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:27:23.340" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it can be done, but more than likely you will need to buy new brakes as well unless yours will adjust to the 700 wheels.  You will also need to find 700 wheels that will have the correct number of rear cogs for your existing derailleur system, or get ready to upgrade that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it can be an inexpensive change, or costly depending on your bike and what rims you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A less expensive way out, is to ask your LBS if they can order tires, or just purchase tires off the internet stores. There is a much larger selection at places like: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/tires/630.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/tires/630.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at that first tire the cross tera - if you go off road quit a bit, that would be more like a XC tire.   Otherwise an extremely good choice as well is the Schwalbe Marathon - they are made for 700 rims as well and are an extremely good tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever your decision, best of luck to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T17:27:23.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:39:05.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few problems that could cause your chain to de-rail when pedaling backwards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;dirty/stuck Jockey wheels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;dirty/stuck link&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;stretch on the derailleur cable (normal for new bikes or new cables) so either the front or rear derailleur is now a touch out of adjustment and causing it to derail(the LBS you purchased it from should adjust it for free).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worn chainring or rear cogs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you take care of all those problems, some chains are just a bit temper mental.  Try removing one link to increase your tension and see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T17:39:05.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:39:08.083" Score="43" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Presta Valve / Presta Tube&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;aka Sclaverand valve (SV) or French valve&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/caA3f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Presta valve is a valve commonly found in high pressure road style and many mountain bicycle inner tubes. The air pressure in an inflated tire holds the inner valve body shut. A small screw and captive nut on the top of the valve body permits the valve to be screwed shut and ensure that it remains tightly closed. The nut must be unscrewed to permit airflow in either direction (this must be done before attaching a pump). The screw remains captive on the valve body even when unscrewed fully; it is tightened again after the tire is inflated and the pump removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8yzj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Presta valve&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/becw/444566898/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;photo credit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo sequence of removing the dust cap then unscrewing the nut so the valve is ready to inflate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Presta valve adapter can be used to fill a Presta tube with a normal &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/284#284&quot;&gt;Schrader-style&lt;/a&gt; air pump, although many pumps today come with a built-in adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqrMl.jpg&quot; width=&quot;150&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a video tutorial on the use of the adapter, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletutor.com/presta-valve/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;check out this video at BicycleTutor.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presta_valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Presta valve (Wikipedia).&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/284#284&quot;&gt;Schrader valve&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/1417#1417&quot;&gt;Dunlop valve&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-08-12T20:32:09.223" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T20:32:09.223" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T17:39:08.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:49:19.453" Score="31" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Schrader valve/Schrader tube&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;aka &amp;quot;American valve&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;car valve&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Auto valve&amp;quot; (AV)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5M9mo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Schrader valve consists of a valve stem into which a valve core is threaded, and is used on virtually all automobile tires and most wider rimmed bicycle tires. The valve core is a poppet valve assisted by a spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A valve cap is important on a Schrader valve because if one is not fitted, dirt and water can enter the outside of the valve, potentially jamming it or contaminating the sealing surfaces and causing a leak. Rock salt and other chemical deicers used in the winter are especially damaging for the brass components in the Schrader valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schrader valves are almost universal on car tires, meaning you can often (carefully) inflate your bike tires with the air machines at roadside garages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an instruction video on patching and inflating a Schrader tube, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletutor.com/fix-flat-tire/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;check out this video on BicycleTutor.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/283#283&quot;&gt;Presta Valve&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/1417#1417&quot;&gt;Dunlop valve&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-08-12T20:33:46.563" LastActivityDate="2020-08-12T20:33:46.563" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T17:49:19.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:58:25.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I find that the best warmup for my knees is actually just riding. Spinning very easily for 10-15 minutes, putting very little pressure on the pedals works far better than any stretching or exercise I've done before getting on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T17:58:25.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:01:30.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I consider it standard practice to replace the rear cogs at the same time as buying a new chain. If you don't the rear cog's teeth start to look like shark fins after a while and your chain will &quot;climb&quot;. Esp. when pedaling backwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: worn cogs, even if they don't cause immediate problems, will stretch your chain causing it to wear out quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T18:01:30.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:05:41.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Schrader valve can be pumped up with a car pump, often it is easer to find someone with a car pump than a bike pump when needed.  (You can also use a bike pump when needed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a cheap car foot pump is a lot better than most bike pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T18:05:41.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:08:09.410" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this has been done and is very often done for the exact reason you mentioned: far greater tire selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a general sense, the important considerations you must make stem from the difference between a 700c wheel and a 27&quot; wheel. If we look at a more precise measurement than the common nomenclature, the bead seat diameter, the difference is more obvious:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700c wheel: 622mm BSD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;27&quot; wheel: 630mm BSD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the former is 8mm shorter in diameter than the latter, and when you mount a 700c wheel to a bicycle with brakes set for a 27&quot; wheel, they will be mis-aligned by 4mm (a significant amount).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what type and variety brakes you have, you may or may not be able to reposition the brake pads correctly. In the case that you can't, you will be able to replace them with brakes designed to have a longer 'reach'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T18:08:09.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="382" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:10:06.497" Score="23" ViewCount="50315" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first got this bike, I got the saddle adjusted almost perfectly.  Recently it slipped back (so that the nose sticks up).  I loosened the bolt under the saddle, tilted the saddle back into the proper position, tightened the bolt up, and within a week the nose had tilted back up. Did the same thing again, but cranked the bolt even tighter; still happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that there's visible &quot;scarring&quot; or scraping on the top of the seat tube where the clamp that holds the saddle (not sure the proper term for those pieces) grabs onto the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a 2009 Surly Long Haul Trucker (touring style bike; equipped like a commuter) with the stock seatpost (pretty sure it's 27.2mm.  No real branding on the seat post).  I'm a fairly heavy rider (near 250 pounds) and I do sometimes ride over some pretty rough stuff, so I suspect that might be part of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I'm seeing maybe 3 options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a hex tool with more leverage and tighten that thing down even more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sort of super glue or epoxy (or maybe just a bit of old innertube?) to keep the seatpost from sliding back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the seatpost (and clamp assembly, of course).  Except I don't know what to replace it with that wouldn't just get the same problem again...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: Pics: (sorry, phone pics, but I think they're workable)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First: overall picture, very careful to take the picture close to level.  Top tube has just a teensy amount of slant, almost level.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/spBUN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Overall picture of saddle angle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Closer in (you can see some of the scarring on the seatpost):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rq9FG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup picture of saddle angle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attempt at closer-in picture of scarring after disassembly, but can't focus close with this camera:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FhObh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;seatpost scarring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the saddle itself, which has no bending, no visible damage to the rails, etc.:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSeu3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;seat is fine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the actual pieces of the &quot;clamp&quot;.  On the right is the bottom piece that sits on top of the seatpost and under the seat rails, there's matching &quot;scarring&quot; at the points that touch the seatpost. On the left is the top piece that goes on top of the rails. On top is the bolt that goes through everything from the bottom (with a curved sort of washer thing that fits into a matching curved area on the seatpost).  The opposite side of the &quot;bottom piece&quot; basically looks just like the visible side of the &quot;top piece&quot;, and the opposite side of the &quot;top piece&quot; is boring.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d7Tbu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;clamp pieces&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;: Used a hex tool with a longer arm (more leverage), removed the bolt, greased it up and tightened it as much as possible, not worrying about damaging the already damaged seatpost further. The grease helps to allow a bit more tightening. This held up for a couple months but eventually seat started sliding back again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final solution&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikethomson.com/products/seatposts/elite/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomson Elite seatpost&lt;/a&gt;, specifically the shorter model with a setback in silver ordered through my LBS. (they had black in stock but decided I was willing to wait an extra week to get silver) It's a two-bolt design that seems to be the top-end for seatposts that don't slip.  I considered a Salsa two-bolt seatpost that was a less expensive, but it didn't seem to be as heavy-duty.  I also considered a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-s-83-seatpost/11-078&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nitto S-83&lt;/a&gt; which is a two-bolt seatpost about the same price as the Thomson and has more of the classic touring look to it, but the Thomson seemed to be a bit better engineered and I like the markings on the Thomson that help you keep the same adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-12-09T17:32:11.927" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T11:42:51.740" Title="How do I keep my seat from tilting back?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="184" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:10:49.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that the deraillieur has moved to the front. It could be that the entire unit has rotated around it's attachment point, or that it has other adjusts screws you accidently touched. Have a good look as to how it sits now before you start twiddling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T18:10:49.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="293" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:11:32.483" Score="10" ViewCount="3533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into getting a trunk-mounted bike rack for two bikes. However, I've heard a few people say that I actually need a 3-bike rack because there isn't really enough space on a 2-bike rack for two bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? If so, why do 2-bike racks even exist? Does it just depend on the brand? 3-bike rack models are a bit more expensive than their 2-bike counterparts, and I don't plan on ever transporting 3 bikes, so I'd rather not buy a 3-bike rack if I don't have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2010-08-28T10:45:20.857" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T10:19:39.820" Title="Is a 3-bike rack needed for two bikes?" Tags="&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:11:39.830" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of the Armadillo tires for my road bike, and they've helped quite a bit (we have a lot of thorny plants in my area, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/27/what-type-of-tires-can-prevent-goatheads&quot;&gt;see my question here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downsides to this tire as compared to the tire that came with my bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Armadillo is much skinnier than my previous tire (my choice, they do have larger sizes)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Armadillo has less tread than my previous tire - I can go faster, but I have to be careful in wet conditions, as this tire can slip a lot easier. I've found riding in sand/dirt/loose gravel can be nearly impossible, depending on how loose it is. I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/zz/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=42102&amp;amp;menuItemId=9304&amp;amp;eid=5098&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;All Condition tire&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because the Armadillo has the thick (I think it's Kevlar) weave, it doesn't flex as easily. This makes your tire want to &quot;skip&quot; off of objects, instead of flexing and rolling right over them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I do prefer the Armadillos over my stock tires - since switching, I haven't had a single flat, and I've put about 500 miles on them so far (riding through the same areas where I got punctures before).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T18:11:39.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="291" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:21:08.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on the type of bikes you'll be loading onto the rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 4-bike hitch-mounted rack (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001PLG7UK&quot;&gt;similar to this rack&lt;/a&gt;). My wife's cruiser is just large enough that it takes some attention to position when I load the next bike to get them all to fit. What I've run into is that the handlebars of smaller bikes tend to get in the way of the seatpost of the next bike (I load each bike facing the opposite way). In my case, her brake lever likes to get caught on my rack, so it takes some practice to get around these problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, I would try purchasing a 2-bike mount from a place that will let you return it, take it home and try it out. If it can hold both bikes, you're good to go, and if not, you can take it back and purchase a larger rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T18:21:08.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="289" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:27:01.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Jared suggested you should check the seat hasn't shifted. Also it could be an idea to check that the &quot;grating&quot; that causes the friction has good grip before you start turning it. Loosen the bolt, adjust saddle, tighten it a little and try turn it a little bit. If it wasn't getting good grip, it may shift a few degrees. Then tighten. If the seatpost is aluminum don't force it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise it is probably time for a new saddle...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T18:27:01.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:39:51.540" Score="6" ViewCount="3687" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my bikes has &quot;rollerbrakes&quot; (commuter bike). When I brake very gently, they work silent. If I squeeze the brakes a liiitle more, I hear a terrible metal to metal screaching sound. It makes pedestrians jump out of the way, which is an undesired side effect (well, most of the time). Should I adjust them? grease them? replace them? ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="139" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2010-08-28T10:43:58.437" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T21:37:14.550" Title="Rollerbrakes very noisy when used" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="297" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:44:42.700" Score="55" ViewCount="13040" Body="&lt;p&gt;By winter I will be commuting on my bike at night. How can I make my bike as visible as possible to all car drivers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T17:27:07.140" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T14:54:41.427" Title="How can I make my bike (and myself) visible at night?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;visibility&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="29" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:47:11.527" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious few things are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red rear tail light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare batteries for said lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke lights/reflectors for improved side visibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bright clothing, ideally cycling clothing with reflective strips on them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="47" LastEditDate="2010-08-27T19:18:40.690" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T19:18:40.690" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:56:25.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be done two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Easy way:&lt;/strong&gt; Purchase a new 700c wheel with coaster brake hub from your Local Bike Shop or the internet. It may be hard to find this as it is not a particularly popular option, but it's not uncommon to find one at a well-appointed bike shop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hard way&lt;/strong&gt;: Purchase a new coaster brake hub, and rebuild your existing rear wheel (or have it rebuilt--wheel building is a complex process) with the new hub. One advantage to rebuilding your existing wheel is that it will be easier to find a new or used, unbuilt coaster-brake hub. Additionally, you'll be sure to have matching front &amp;amp; rear rims.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, there are no other steps or considerations you'll need to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T22:10:22.087" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T22:10:22.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:56:52.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;True the brakes may be an issue.  The other problem you will encounter is different spacing on the hubs. Usually you can spread the fork and frame to fit.  Borrow some 700s from a friend or stop by your LBS to test fit a set of wheels.  You'll know very quickly that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T18:56:52.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="291" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:58:46.290" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how... scratch averse you are for your bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 4 bike trailer hitch rack by Thule can get 4 bikes on it. If you want to ensure that there is never any pedal to frame contact, then you can get 2 bikes on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general with some wiggling and possibly removing a wheel or two, you can always get as many bikes as advertised on a given rack. Just be aware that there will be some rubbing as you fiddle with the bikes to get them on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T18:58:46.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-08-26T19:06:08.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If bikesandcode's suggestions aren't enough you could always paint your mudguard reflective like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Paint-your-bike-bicycle-gear-reflective/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Paint-your-bike-bicycle-gear-reflective/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lAW1t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some other suggestions on the same site for wrapping the frame in reflective material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2010-08-27T16:15:57.837" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T16:15:57.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-08-26T19:06:50.410" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brightthread.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bright Bike kit&lt;/a&gt; from brightthread.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bright Bike DIY kits cover your bicycle in easy-to-apply design-savvy ultra reflective vinyl for safety. It is like covering your bike with a big stickers that turn ultra-bright in headlights. The retroreflective vinyl is the same material used on the backs of running shoes, but with colors. The kits greatly improve night visibility and thus bicycle safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These kits are pre-cut and easy to put on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uVgvF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the blue pinstripe set and I love it - a bright source of light, like a car headlight, hits your bike, and you light up like a christmas tree. It's especially pronounced at night, and as cool as this picture is, it doesn't do it justice. Check out the video on their website for a nighttime demonstration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I thought I would share my picture of my bike with the blue BrightBike pinstripes on it. This is taken in my dark garage with my flash covered (just enough light to make it glow without the picture being blurry). In daylight, the color is almost the same as my paint color, so they're hard to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KM9qY.png&quot; alt=&quot;My bike&quot; title=&quot;My 2007 Kona Dew&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T17:26:28.710" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-08-26T19:53:23.653" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget side visibility. Spoke lights are great for making you visible at crosswalks or traffic lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T19:53:23.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="274" CreationDate="2010-08-26T20:05:34.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.philwood.com/support/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phil Wood FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the difference between JIS, JIS low profile, and ISO&#xA;  tapers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   Phil Wood offers all three tapers to try and best meet the needs of our&#xA;  customers who are using square-tapered&#xA;  bottom brackets. An explaination of&#xA;  the different bottom bracket tapers&#xA;  can be found here. In brief, most&#xA;  modern cranks will take the JIS&#xA;  (Japanese Industrial Standard) taper,&#xA;  in addition to Campagnolo cranks&#xA;  produced before 1994. After 1994,&#xA;  Campagnolo moved to the ISO (a.k.a.&#xA;  Campy) taper. The less common of the&#xA;  three tapers offered is the JIS low&#xA;  profile, which is used in some&#xA;  specific older-model Dura Ace cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Shimano square-taper cranks are J.I.S. (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; low-profile), this means that all Phil Wood bottom brackets with JIS spindles are compatible, as well as Outboard Bottom Brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T20:05:34.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="184" CreationDate="2010-08-26T20:17:00.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dérailleurs exist not only to change gears, but to add tension to the chain as well. If you are noticing chain slack, and nothing else has changed or been replaced, the reason for chain slack is that the dérailleur has lost this ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The dérailleur has lost some of it's 'springy-ness'.&lt;/strong&gt; This can happen over long periods of time, but also can be indicative of damage, but is less likely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The dérailleur has shifted positions.&lt;/strong&gt; Some dérailleurs bolt directly to the frame, but some do not, and instead are positioned in the dropout. If you have this type of dérailleur, and recently removed your wheels, it's possible that the dérailleur has 'slipped' in the dropout.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T20:17:00.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="309" CreationDate="2010-08-26T20:18:20.083" Score="25" ViewCount="8199" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to load a touring bike, to increase stability and balance? Assuming a standard two-rack-and-panniers setup, where should I put most of my weight? I have a camping load, about 50 pounds (23 kg, including 4 water bottles, laptop, tent, food, and clothing). My bike is a steel touring bike, a Novara Randonee. I also have a large handlebar bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2017-05-10T01:04:39.327" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T14:10:08.063" Title="Touring load weight distribution" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="313" CreationDate="2010-08-26T20:28:45.903" Score="104" ViewCount="45023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to bicycle commute to work, but we don't have showers or any place I can change. How can I clean up and carry clothing? My office is business casual, but I need to look neat and presentable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-03T17:52:14.917" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T00:45:55.750" Title="How to clean up at work after a commute?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="20" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="26" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T20:28:45.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2010-08-26T20:30:28.533" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;We can generalize the main areas where one can load weight as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front rack vs. Rear Rack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High (on top of rack) vs. Low (in panniers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most commonly accepted points for load distribution are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep dense, heavy items low to the ground.&lt;/strong&gt; The lower you &amp;amp; your bike's center of gravity is, the more easily you can keep yourself upright. This means loading heavy things into panniers (bottom up, like a grocery bag) and leaving less dense items for the tops of the racks (sleeping bags/pads, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be careful about putting too much weight on the front wheel.&lt;/strong&gt; One advantage to having weight on the front wheel is that as you turn, it will turn with you--unlike weight over the back wheel. However, too much weight on the front, especially if the center of gravity is too high, will cause you to over steer, or have to steer very rigidly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure your load is balanced.&lt;/strong&gt; You didn't mention anything about this, and although it seems like common sense, I want to make sure it's included. An unbalanced load will cause you to have to compensate by continually steering in the opposite direction. You should be able to roughly balance your pairs of panniers by holding one in each hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't used a handlebar bag myself, but the same logic applies. Weight in such a bag will have a very high center of gravity, as well as the ability to turn with you. Therefore, it might be a good place for maps, snacks, phone/keys/wallet, patch kit, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T20:30:28.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2010-08-26T20:31:52.880" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chromeindustries.com/us/en/metropolis-messenger-bag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chrome Metropolis&lt;/a&gt; messenger bag (waterproof) to carry my stuff. Lots of room to carry a laptop, shoes, clothes...If you can leave a pair of shoes at the office under your desk. I've known a few people with no shower to just use some baby wipes in the bathroom and get the essentials freshened up. Also leave deodorant at work and put it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="8643" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T22:59:07.790" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T22:59:07.790" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T20:31:52.880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2010-08-26T20:38:31.760" Score="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past, when I commuted to a job without showers (I've managed to luck out recently) I made sure to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep my hair relatively short, as to avoid helmet-hair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get in early enough that I can have a quick wash in a bathroom sink without too many people around to take notice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always bring a &lt;em&gt;full&lt;/em&gt; change of clothes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Like @curtismchale, leave a pair of 'work' shoes under the desk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring deodorant!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T20:38:31.760" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T20:38:31.760" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="184" CreationDate="2010-08-26T20:58:34.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The small jockey wheels on the derailleur can also  seize up preventing it from functioning properly, you should if you're lucky be able to remove them and regrease them if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T20:58:34.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2010-08-26T21:09:38.850" Score="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commute was fairly short, so my major burden was the rain. For this I invested in rain proof panniers &amp;amp; waterproof jacket &amp;amp; over-trousers. I had both a summer &amp;amp; winter jacket to make sure I didn't arrive in too hot during summer. I didn't have overshoes, so kept spare socks/shoes at office.  I cycled at leisurely pace on way there to avoid building up too much of a sweat. I'd let rip on the way home to make up for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a colleague who cycled in from further afield, and wore the spandex gear. He just discretely got changed in the toilets when he arrived. It was never an issue (odour wise) - I guess he went with the babywipes &amp;amp; deodorant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our dress code was pretty casual. If you need to be smart, just bring your freshly ironed office clothes in a pannier. See if you can get a suction bag to prevent them from flopping all over the place enroute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T21:09:38.850" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T21:09:38.850" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2010-08-26T22:57:02.980" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cloth, such as a bathroom hand down, in your bag, that you can wet in the bathroom sink, and use to wipe down works wonders, it cools you down quicker, and wipes away the sweat.  Just remember a plastic bag to pack it away, and don't forget to put it straight in the wash when you get home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+1 for the shoes under the desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A full change of clothes are definitely a must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastEditorUserId="115" LastEditDate="2010-08-27T10:37:50.907" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T10:37:50.907" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-26T22:57:02.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="316" CreationDate="2010-08-26T23:48:32.180" Score="12" ViewCount="3815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my bike maybe once a week at most. I need to add air to the tires every time to bring it up to the right pressure.  (I ride a mountain bike and I put about 45 - 50 PSI's into the tires.)  Is this normal?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-05T18:43:51.307" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T18:43:51.307" Title="Bike tires need air every ride...is this normal?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="315" CreationDate="2010-08-26T23:56:56.203" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're putting in 5 or maybe even 10 PSI every week, that's not too much out of line; it's normal for tires to lose a little bit of pressure over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your tires are sinking down to much more than that, you may have slow leaks. If both tires are decreasing by the same amount, perhaps you have older tubes that need replacing. If one tire is doing this but not the other, you may have a very slow leak. Try replacing the tube and see if that fixes the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-08-26T23:56:56.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-08-27T02:12:47.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also turn your wheels into programmable displays using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ladyada.net/make/spokepov/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ladyada's kit&lt;/a&gt;, which exploits persistence of vision.  Some assembly required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T02:12:47.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="319" CreationDate="2010-08-27T03:07:29.203" Score="25" ViewCount="2195" Body="&lt;p&gt;When riding long distances, either solo or with groups of people, it is obviously necessary to carry a first-aid kit in case of a crash or other injury. What are the most important items to pack, while still considering weight or space? What items can be included in 'travel-size', and which items should be 'full-size'? What items should definitely be left at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T21:55:04.100" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T21:55:04.100" Title="What are important items for a touring first-aid kit?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="318" CreationDate="2010-08-27T03:33:23.627" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bring enough to dress small cuts and stop bleeding, at least until 911 could get to me. If you're riding in areas you might not be able to be reached by emergency services, or if you have particular medical issues that need specialty supplies, a kit like this would insufficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bandages/band-aids of a few different sizes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gauze -- usually a small roll&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tape -- small roll, enough to tape a skinned knee and a little more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small tube of antibacterial gel (like neosporin) &lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;See GaryW's comment, below, liquid may (or may not) be more appropriate&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advil -- I usually have this in my handebar bag anyway&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alcohol wipes -- one or two individually-wrapped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things you might consider are snappable heat packs, a knee brace, and something to put on bug bites or poison ivy for rides in the woods. If you're allergic to bee stings, you might bring something for that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T20:36:38.323" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T20:36:38.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="343" CreationDate="2010-08-27T03:39:15.267" Score="4" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;The leather-like grips on my cruiser have rotated a bit over the last year and a half; the faux &quot;stitching&quot; on one of them is now at a location that feels weird when I'm holding it. I can't rotate the grip back by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I loosen the adhesive enough that I can rotate the grip back to the correct position, without removing it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T15:21:38.740" Title="Glued grip has rotated, won't rotate back" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;grips&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="924" CreationDate="2010-08-27T03:44:35.163" Score="10" ViewCount="7805" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best chain lubricant for a bike used for riding in normal(ish) clothes, year-round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using Tri-Flow, but that tends to leave black greasy/dirty stains on pants, shoes, etc. I've heard of melting solid parafin, but that seems too labor-intensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most important: not picking up dirt; not staining anything that touches the chain.  (yes, I know of various ways to keep clothes away from the chain, but none are perfect)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Must also work in a wide temp range and wet conditions. For my area, I'll ride in temps from 30F (-1C) to 106F (41C). With heavy rains in winter. Just this last week I've ridden in drizzle, 55F (13C), and 107F (42C)…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would be nice if it was long-lasting…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-11T18:06:11.570" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T16:48:00.127" Title="Best chain lubricant for commuter/utility bikes?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;utility-cycling&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-27T03:59:28.250" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Handlebars&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part of the bike you hold onto. When you turn the handlebars, the front wheel turns with them. The front wheel is held in the fork, which ends in a steerer tube, which in turn attaches to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/270#270&quot;&gt;stem&lt;/a&gt;, which clamps onto the handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly speaking, there are flat handlebars as found on mountain bikes and hybrid bikes, and drop handlebars which have bar ends that are curved below the flat portion. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1195/different-kinds-of-handlebars/1208&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; provides further detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Additional information:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#handlebar&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;handlebars&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_dr-z.html#dropbar&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;drop bars&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_u-v.html#upright&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;upright bars&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T14:24:32.947" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-27T03:59:28.250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="323" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2010-08-27T04:00:47.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycles - Stack Exchange is for people who build and repair bicycles, people who train cycling, or commute on bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not quite sure if your question is on topic, consider looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/on-off-topic&quot;&gt;meta questions tagged [on-off-topic]&lt;/a&gt; where the community has discussed what questions are appropriate for this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your question is fairly basic, you might find the answer in &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/reference&quot;&gt;one of our growing reference pages&lt;/a&gt;. Also, feel free to link to these in your questions and answers, particularly the entries in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index&quot;&gt;terminology index&lt;/a&gt; if you'd rather not re-invent the two-wheeler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T22:13:26.143" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T22:13:26.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2010-08-27T04:27:34.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tri-Flow works the best.  Any wax or lubricant that contains wax is only somewhat useful on a brand new chain, or a chain that has been thoroughly cleaned.  Wax lubricant does not work well when riding in wet conditions because a lot more road grime gets kicked up into the drive train and the wax tends to do the opposite of what is advertised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You aren't going to find a chain that doesn't leave stains on your clothes.  Your best bet is to get a chain protector to keep your clothes and your chain separated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T04:27:34.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="326" CreationDate="2010-08-27T05:21:32.003" Score="23" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll need a new saddle for my bike soon. I use it mainly for short commutes (30 minutes). About once a year I go touring for a few days, up 8 hours in the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current saddle just came with the bike. I see there are a lot of different saddle types available now, from the ultra thin, to the wide &amp;amp; comfy to the downright &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spongywonder.com/&quot;&gt;fruity&lt;/a&gt;.I associate the thin saddles with racers, but thats the limit of my knowledge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When choosing a new saddle, should I choose based on my body frame or my cycling type (i.e. get one for short commutes, one for touring)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T18:59:59.933" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T18:27:29.603" Title="How to choose a bicycle seat" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2010-08-27T06:12:08.993" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Choosing a saddle that fits &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; is very important. The wrong saddle can lead to numbness and pain in the crotch area, and in the long run serious health issues. The right saddle for you should fit comfortably regardless of what type of riding you do and will depend mainly on the width of your pelvic. Ideally you should get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CucLJcN9Yo0#t=2m55s&quot;&gt;professional fit&lt;/a&gt;. If one is not available to you, you should try a few saddles of different sizes to determine what fits you before you purchase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="120" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T06:12:08.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="339" CreationDate="2010-08-27T09:29:26.627" Score="11" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I increase my riding routine I end up getting bad cramps in both my calves and also my thighs and hamstrings.  Does anyone have any tips to reduce cramps when your riding gets more serious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T12:30:03.263" Title="How to Prevent Cramping" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="295" CreationDate="2010-08-27T09:53:03.733" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roller Brakes (a form of drum brake) do need a regular service, which does require grease (yes it does seem weird to grease brakes) as there are some moving parts that can rub. You should be able to buy some Roller Brake grease/oil and apply to the appropriate location. I am not 100% familiar with Roller Brakes, so you may need to check the location in your manual, or perhaps someone else can help out with the description of rubber cover if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T09:53:03.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-08-27T10:08:53.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A safety vest can help, they can get a bit warm but I have wrapped my backpack in one for extra visibility on the commute&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T10:08:53.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-08-27T10:29:14.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used iron on reflective tape on my backpack (or buy a cover) and Pannier including the sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iuiSg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YxujH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CxxxO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reflective Ankle Bands are good, as a driver can see the movement when you are pedalling, I also use a reflective helmet band. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T10:29:14.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2010-08-27T10:41:57.490" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only rough rule that applies is that the more you ride, the narrower and harder saddle you need. Beyond that it's very individual and there seem to be be no shortcuts - you need to go through a few saddles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a saddle that fits on one bike may not be the best fit on another bike, due to differences in position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At best you can try to get an arrangement with your local bike shop where if a saddle doesn't fit you, you can return it at a markdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T10:41:57.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2010-08-27T11:31:38.133" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of people have mentioned a full change of clothes, and to that I would add just one thing: have a separate &quot;emergency&quot; pair of socks/underwear with you at all times. If you have space, extra pants, shirt, and shoes may also come in useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every morning I pack myself a change of clothes, but the spare socks/underwear live in a separate bag which I put in my bag next to emergency bike tools and such.  You just never know when you're going to get caught in a downpour or something, and they don't take up so much room in the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2010-12-09T19:54:11.393" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T19:54:11.393" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-27T11:31:38.133" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="51" CreationDate="2010-08-27T11:35:55.267" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best advice I heard on the topic is to sit comfortably on the bike while placing your heel on the pedal.  Move the seat up until your leg is fully extended, and then tighten the seat.  This way, the leg will be only slightly bent at full extension when the ball of the foot is on the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely don't want the leg to be fully extended while pedaling, or else you can hurt your knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some other guides on the subject:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/bike+fit.html&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/bike+fit.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T11:35:55.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="52" CreationDate="2010-08-27T11:43:53.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that the easiest way to deal with this problem is to just carry a spare tube around with you so you can quickly get back on the road.  Then you can patch the punctured tube when you get home.  You are also covered in cases where the tube cannot be patched, like if the valve itself breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether you choose to patch or just replace the punctured tire, you should definitely feel and look for sharp objects along the inside &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; outside edges of the tire before inflating the new tube inside the tire.  Just yesterday I had a flat which was caused by a small piece of glass which I could not feel on the inside of the tire, as it was just barely poking through from the outside.  Very often, the object which caused the flat may be embedded somewhere in the tire, and if you don't properly remove it, you'll find yourself fixing another flat tire very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T11:43:53.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2010-08-27T12:03:36.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion I've heard is that you should invest in a leather saddle such as a Brooks, and it will over time mould itself to fit your sit bones. A Brooks B17 was the suggestion (if I recall correctly), as you can get one for about £50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T12:03:36.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="327" CreationDate="2010-08-27T12:12:07.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to get bad cramps after just 25 minutes of riding and found out that it was due to low potassium levels. I'd recommend more bananas and potatoes or a good potassium supplement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastEditorUserId="21" LastEditDate="2010-08-27T16:38:40.293" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T16:38:40.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="341" CreationDate="2010-08-27T12:21:41.513" Score="16" ViewCount="487" Body="&lt;p&gt;As most of my riding is limited to intra-city commuting (on bus routes) or on bike paths, I have not really faced a dire need for a repair kit while riding. I am looking into pulling off a three hour ride soon (one way, and then back two days later) and would like an idea of what to pack for emergency repairs while riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I will have camping gear with me I am looking to have a minimal amount that can fit on my back. However, getting stranded two hours into the ride doesnt sound like fun and, aside from flats and a broken chain (?), I am not sure what else to prepare for or what to bring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What emergencies should I prepare for? Are there repair kits already assembled (I have an old Ross road bike)? And what size pack am I likely to need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T21:54:41.073" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T04:32:04.370" Title="Riding Repair Kit" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="327" CreationDate="2010-08-27T12:54:41.650" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had problems with cramps in my legs after about an hour of exercise. A friend of mine that is a physical therapist said that if you sweat a lot this can cause loss of potassium, calcium, and magnesium. These minerals are used to signal the muscles to flex and relax. I started eating vitamins with these minerals in them. Since then my problems are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stretching and a good warm up is also important to prevent cramps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Rickard Lindroth" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T07:39:10.493" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T07:39:10.493" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2010-08-27T13:30:53.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Kryptonite Evolution Mini:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1001&amp;amp;scid=1000&amp;amp;pid=1100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1001&amp;amp;scid=1000&amp;amp;pid=1100&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It fits in a back pocket, is compact enough that it's hard for thieves to get a tool inside of it to pry it apart, and lets you lock your bike to parking meters since it is too small to fit over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lock is too small to secure anything besides the frame, so I also use locking wheel skewers and carry the key everywhere I go. This is a great combination of equipment; it only takes me ten seconds to lock up my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-18T05:29:51.767" LastActivityDate="2010-09-18T05:29:51.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="338" CreationDate="2010-08-27T13:54:36.817" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what I normally bring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire levers (for changing the tube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump (or CO2 inflator)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4, 5, and 6mm allen wrenches (for adjusting/tightening the saddle or seat post during the ride, but also to tighten many other things on the bike that could come loose)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, for the long rides that I do, everything beyond this basic equipment provides diminishing returns. Any number of things can go wrong, and you can't prepare for all of them. Last year I didn't see a speed bump in the road and was thrown up on the handlebars; the back of the bike rotated in the air and when it landed it bent the rear wheel so badly that I had to disengage the brakes for it to turn at all. No matter how much repair gear you bring, things can always happen that will end your ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if you take good care of your bike, the chance of your chain breaking is fairly low. But I suppose the chain repair stuff doesn't take up much space, so you could bring that too if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="41" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T17:13:41.723" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T17:13:41.723" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2010-08-27T15:18:24.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered a trailer?  This also allows local unloaded trips from a base without all the gear loaded.  Keeps weight down low too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T15:18:24.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="320" CreationDate="2010-08-27T15:21:38.740" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems a bit unusual to me that your grip would be actually 'glued' to your handlebar. Typically grips hold themselves in place, but I'll take your word for it. =]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your grip is in fact 'glued' in place, the adhesive is likely mediocre quality, and rotation you're experiencing is due to heat from your hand and/or the outdoors slightly softening the glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to un-rotate the grip by heating it with a hair-dryer, and therefore softening the adhesive to a point where you can move it by hand. Be careful not to burn or melt the synthetic leather, though! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T15:21:38.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="327" CreationDate="2010-08-27T15:26:12.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;em&gt;New York Times&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/06/09/phys-ed-can-pickle-juice-stop-muscle-cramps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; asks &lt;em&gt;Can Pickle Juice Stop Muscle Cramps?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It concludes the &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; about pickle juice seems to help, but with no clear explanation why or how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a worthwhile read because of it's general discussion of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T02:16:06.683" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T02:16:06.683" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-27T15:26:12.660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="377" CreationDate="2010-08-27T16:04:21.427" Score="6" ViewCount="2087" Body="&lt;p&gt;Curious if I can just replace the bearings in my existing cups or if I would need to buy new cups?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible to replace them then what are possible high quality replacement bearings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-03T00:18:45.510" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T00:18:45.510" Title="Is it possible to replace bearings in Shimano XT bottom bracket cups?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="325" CreationDate="2010-08-27T16:36:04.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My LBS lets you use a trial saddle for a week. That's a pretty good way to get an idea. You put a deposit down, take the saddle home and ride as much as you can. It took me a few tries to find the right one. One of the ones I rejected I liked a lot the first two rides but the third started reveal lack of fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do different kinds of riding (commuting, touring, etc.) it might be overkill to get a saddle for each. But you do need one that is going to work for your longest activity. If it works for long touring, it should work for a short commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T16:36:04.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-27T16:51:44.477" Score="35" ViewCount="5730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happen to live in a windy climate. I often find myself riding against strong headwinds and sudden gusts seemingly coming from all directions at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your tactics for riding in such conditions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T19:29:22.333" Title="Tactics for riding in strong winds" Tags="&lt;weather&gt;&lt;wind&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="347" CreationDate="2010-08-27T17:05:12.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do my best to tack. Kind of like a sail boat. For example If I'm riding in the city and the winds are from the south I'll ride a mile or so south and then head east for a block or so to catch a break, head south for a mile or so and then head west a bit to catch a break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sure lengthens the ride but it can be good to get the short recovery periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's on bike paths or trails I just stay low and grind it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T17:05:12.783" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="347" CreationDate="2010-08-27T17:09:06.797" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;I deal with this at least once a week. Yesterday I was going 18km and hour with a heart rate of 175bpm (normally that's 35+). I get on the drops on my bar to reduce my wind profile. I try to stay on less busy streets (normally I'm out in the farm area) because the side gusts will cause swerving. Pay very close attention to what's behind you b/c of swerving. Get in an easy gear and spin it out. Head winds are great 'hill like' training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't ever get a disc wheel since the added surface area will just make it worse in cross-winds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T17:09:06.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="352" CreationDate="2010-08-27T17:13:23.367" Score="44" ViewCount="39827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy a repair stand, but I can never seem to convince myself to drop the $100 minimum it seems I'd need to spend.  Has anybody had any success building a stand themselves, or is it worth it to just buy one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2012-06-05T16:25:21.207" LastActivityDate="2017-06-11T20:15:36.913" Title="Alternatives to buying a repair stand?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;repair-stand&gt;" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2010-08-27T17:29:28.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest buying one. They come in very handy for all sorts of tasks, especially if you are into doing your own maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T17:29:28.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2010-08-27T17:47:26.160" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can tell you from experience that your best option is to buy a repair stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I worked in a shop for a number of years and thought there was no way I could use a consumer grade stand when I left.  I purchased park tool PRS-4W at cost before I left the shop and built my own stand from it. The consumer price is now $200 for that so that is obviously not dealing with your $ issue.  And even if it did, I have since purchased and use a consumer grade stand with less features to maintain 4 bikes of different size frames for 5 years now and it was well worth the $ spent.  It gets the job done.  Bite the bullet, get the stand you'll be glad you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T17:47:26.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2010-08-27T17:47:51.283" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A storage stand can make a pretty good repair stand, anything that lets the wheels and pedals rotate. A car rack will also work well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T17:47:51.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2010-08-27T18:49:06.223" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a large number of sets of instructions for making your own DIY Bike Repair Stand over on Instructables, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/howto/bike+repair+stand/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; is the result of searching for Bike Repair Stand on their site. I keep meaning to try out one of these but I never seem to have the time to build one, some of the results look more practical than others, as ever YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T04:36:01.780" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T04:36:01.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="347" CreationDate="2010-08-27T18:50:41.107" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stay in lower gears and cycle at a higher &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadence_(cycling)&quot;&gt;cadence&lt;/a&gt;. Using lower gear will help you to maintain momentum when hit by gust full on, and to retain control when hit by crosswind gust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep a low profile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid baggy clothes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a cycling partner and share slip streaming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T18:50:41.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="795" CreationDate="2010-08-27T19:29:41.913" Score="9" ViewCount="7445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike with a 2003 Cannondale Lefty DLR Ti fork. As I've been riding the bike this season, I've noticed that the fork is behaving strangely. It doesn't seem to lockout fully and it is a lot &quot;squishier&quot; than it used to be. Also, when it decompresses after a hard compression, I notice a strange noise -- it's hard to describe but it sounds almost like gurgling fluid. I've already tried adding air to the fork using a shock pump (the pressure was very low) and that did make it a little less &quot;squishy&quot; but it's still not working like it used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that it's time to do some serious maintenance on the fork; possibly even a full rebuild. How complicated should I expect this repair to be? What specific skills and tools will I need? What is the procedure for doing a rebuild?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to evaluate the level of difficulty of this repair so that I can decide if it is something I'd be comfortable doing myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="146" LastEditorUserId="7415" LastEditDate="2013-08-03T21:22:41.117" LastActivityDate="2013-08-03T21:22:41.117" Title="Cannondale Lefty DLR Ti Fork Rebuild/Maintenance" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;&lt;lefty-fork&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="358" CreationDate="2010-08-27T20:17:51.833" Score="6" ViewCount="12631" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has a set of Avid Elixir R hydraulic brakes. The front brake barely goes on when I pull the lever and the back brake feels pretty soft. I think I need to bleed them. How do I go about doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the brakes got like this because I pressed the brake level when the bike was upside down or when the wheel was removed putting the bike into my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastEditorUserId="147" LastEditDate="2010-08-28T15:46:47.717" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T17:43:52.707" Title="How do I bleed Avid Elixir brakes" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="357" CreationDate="2010-08-27T20:44:53.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;All Avid brakes require the proprietary brake bleed equipment and that a fairly complex procedure is followed. Avid/SRAM sell a brake bleed kit that comprises:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two syringes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;caliper and level hose barbs with hose and clamps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T10 Torx allen key&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DOT 5.1 brake fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;caliper spreaders to hold the caliper apart while bleeding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kit is quite expensive and several eBay sellers provide a cheaper alternative kits. Any hydraulic brake fluid that complies with the DOT 5.1 standard is suitable for Avid brakes. It is possible to assemble your own brake bleed kit by sourcing some 20ml syringes, M? hose barbs, neoprene hose, hose clamps and using some US quarters or UK 2pence pieces to spread the calliper pistons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bleed procedure is documented by SRAM in a youtube video: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/GzZkEIrCBJ0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and also in their service manual PDF:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/service/techdocs/hydraulic-disc-brake-hose-length-adjustment-bleed-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sram.com/service/techdocs/hydraulic-disc-brake-hose-length-adjustment-bleed-guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure involves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prepare the brake fluid by using a partial vacuum to remove bubbles from the fluid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;connect a 50% full syringe to the caliper and 25% full syringe to the lever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;close the brake lever and clamp with a rubber band&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull on the caliper syringe gently to remove bubbles from the caliper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;push the caliper syringe until around 25% of the fluid has transferred to the lever syringe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;open the lever while gently applying pressure to the caliper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the caliper syringe and replace the bleed screw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull gently on the level syringe to remove bubbles from the caliper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply the brake lever and repeat until all bubbles are removed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the lever syringe and replace the bleed screw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean all traces of brake fluid with alcohol or soapy water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you should have properly bled brakes. Test carefully before heading back out on the trail!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastEditorUserId="147" LastEditDate="2017-12-05T17:43:52.707" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T17:43:52.707" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-27T20:44:53.277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="360" CreationDate="2010-08-27T20:52:04.160" Score="14" ViewCount="8526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finding that when jumping my mountain bike seems to be very nose heavy no matter how far back my saddle is. What effect will moving to a shorter stem length have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike, a Boardman FS-PRO came with a 100mm Richey stem. I think that moving to a shorter stem length will allow me, and my short arms, to sit further back on the bike and hopefully make steep dropoffs a bit easier to ride. I've heard that shorter stems make the steering quicker too. Will this make my bike unrideable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2010-08-28T10:17:09.183" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T07:42:54.800" Title="What effect does changing the stem length have on my bikes handling" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;handling&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="359" CreationDate="2010-08-27T21:03:07.340" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A shorter stem does make your steering quicker, it also enables you to sit more upright and gives more leverage on the handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer stem gets you more forward and in a better position for climbing but I think it makes low speed steering awkward and is uncomfortable for long stretches on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went from some ungodly long stem (100+mm) with a flat bar to a 50 mm stem with a small riser bar on my Rockhopper and I'm much happier riding it now.  Pulling up the front wheel is much easier (and of course this helps big time with hopping/jumping).  Also riding off larger drops is easier since you it is easier to hang over the rear of the bike as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're primarily dirt jumping and free riding, I'd say go with the short stem.   Honestly the only scenario where I would consider going back to the long stem is if I decided to start doing a lot of XC riding involving lots of climbs (NO THANKS!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T07:42:54.800" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T07:42:54.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="793" CreationDate="2010-08-27T21:08:07.153" Score="27" ViewCount="2203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that a lot of people use or promote tubeless tyres for mountain biking. Why is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems a lot of hassle to get a special rim conversion kit and goop to put in the tyre. As far as I can see it still makes a lot of sense to carry a tube in case it all goes wrong out on the trail any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastEditorUserId="125" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T14:03:37.123" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T20:37:41.663" Title="Why are tubeless tyres popular in mountain biking?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2010-08-27T22:39:38.913" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tubless tires let you run less pressure than a tubed tire can. They're also less prone to flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T22:39:38.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2010-08-27T23:05:03.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pitch is a pretty good AM bike; I ride the enduro and I love it. It climbs ok, but can destroy really rocky, nasty trails. It also does really well on the FR terrain. While the enduro has evolved from when it was the same frame as the pitch, I think they would still be fairly comparable experiences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.santacruzbicycles.com/heckler/#builder.php&quot;&gt;heckler&lt;/a&gt; (you can set that up to be just about $2k) or there's also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/reign.0/3899/37071/&quot;&gt;Giant Reign&lt;/a&gt; which is a great bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T23:05:03.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="291" CreationDate="2010-08-27T23:13:54.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the bike rack and the geometry of your bikes. Typically, from what I've seen, if it says it can hold two, then your fine. I typically recommend the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thule.com/en/US/Products/BikeCarriers/Hitch/4766509.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thule T2&lt;/a&gt;. It's a great rack and is super easy to use; I never worry about the bikes when they're on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-08-27T23:13:54.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="130" CreationDate="2010-08-28T00:01:29.093" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to bleed your hydros when they get a squishy feeling. They should be pretty close to the rotor, but if they are rubbing a lot, then you could try to recenter the pads around the rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loosen the bolts attaching the brakes to the fork (or the adapter). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grab the corresponding brake lever and hold it in place. You can use a rubber band for that, and it will free up your hand for the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While the lever is held, the pads are pressed against the disc. Now tighten up the bolts you just loosened.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After you have tighten them back up, release the brakes. Spin the wheel to test if the discs still rub.  You might need to do it again, but this should minimize the amount of rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T17:24:47.200" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T17:24:47.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="291" CreationDate="2010-08-28T08:39:40.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had one of these: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOlnp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOlnp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bit of fiddling I can get 3 adult bikes on there. Depending on the bikes I sometimes have to alternate the direction they face and sometimes not. To preserve the paint from scratches you can buy foam pads to insert between the bikes, plus I've found that either wrapping the pedals in old teatowels or removing them completely can make life easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to get two bikes on a two bike rack with a bit of manoeuvring (it may be  quite straightforward), but if you can afford it a three bike rack might be easier to use and gives you more leeway in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that for peace of mind I needed to add two extra straps to the bottom of the rack to secure the bottoms of the bikes and stop the whole lot from bouncing away from the car when you hit a bump (this was probably unnecessary but it made me feel better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2020-05-27T10:19:39.820" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T10:19:39.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="373" CreationDate="2010-08-28T18:27:14.030" Score="20" ViewCount="3344" Body="&lt;p&gt;Title says it all, how do I keep my bicycle tires from going flat easily? I live in an area with a lot of sharp stuff (think glass shards, nails, cactus, etc)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastEditorUserId="2331" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T16:35:21.343" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T20:46:21.127" Title="What is a good way to keep my tires from going flat easily?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="376" CreationDate="2010-08-28T18:30:23.213" Score="6" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;All types of biking, mountain biking in particular: what are some must have items/gear to keep with oneself on mountain biking trips? I'm think of items such as extra inner tube, bike pump, etc...What products or items do you use? Specifics would be helpful, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastEditorUserId="2331" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T16:35:10.330" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T21:46:32.253" Title="What is must-have gear for mountain biking?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="425" CreationDate="2010-08-28T18:34:03.110" Score="5" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a large handlebar basket, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.waldsports.com/index.cfm/news.html?article_id=11FBF789-1B15-4DE4-B08D-E80D9D6210FF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wald 139-WW&lt;/a&gt; for my cruiser, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/bike_path/pure/puredlx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek Pure&lt;/a&gt;. I'm having trouble installing the basket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Context: The basket attaches using hooks on the basket to the handlebars (no problem there), as well as using legs that from the bottom of the basket to the axle of the front wheel. The legs can attach to either fork eyelets or one can thread the quick-release through the legs, no problem there.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the basket legs are too short, by about an inch and a half. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop I purchased the basket from isn't of much help, and my LBS doesn't stock longer legs. Wald doesn't make longer legs, although they're willing to send me a second set of legs I can modify and attach to the existing legs -- if I can wait until they can send them out in two weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a little leery of attaching the basket legs to, say, P-clamps on the fork. Stability and strength are important here. Has anyone here attached a similar basket to a cruiser? Can anyone think of a way out of this, or should I give up and return the basket? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-08-29T21:22:23.803" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T15:37:34.630" Title="Wald basket legs too short for cruiser -- how can I install the basket?" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;utility-cycling&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="379" CreationDate="2010-08-28T18:37:33.790" Score="8" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a good headlight for my bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swappable between bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good for bumpy roads/situations such as gravel or dirt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long lasting battery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Far reaching range of light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LED of course! :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T00:39:08.177" Title="Headlight recommendation" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="367" CreationDate="2010-08-28T18:42:57.717" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are good puncture-resistant tires. I personally use Schwalbe Marathon Plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-08-28T18:42:57.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="347" CreationDate="2010-08-28T19:07:57.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a bit drastic, but I've found wind much less of a problem after moving to a recumbent (for obvious reasons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2010-08-28T19:07:57.547" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="367" CreationDate="2010-08-28T19:51:14.357" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of things you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puncture resistant tires.  These have kevlar/aramid belting in the tire, thicker rubber or other features that make them harder to puncture. Would need to know more specifics about your bike (especially wheel/rim size) to be able to suggest specific tires, but Specialized, Continental, Schwalbe, and pretty much every other major tire manufacturer have a wide range of puncture-resistant tires. You can probably just go to your local bike shop and ask about puncture resistant tires, or you can order them online a number of places. There's a bunch of good suggestions here for specific types: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/27/what-type-of-tires-can-prevent-goatheads&quot;&gt;What type of tires can prevent goatheads?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puncture resistant tubes.  These seem to be harder to find.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slime/goo in the tube.  Personally I don't care for this, but some people swear by it.  This is a sort of thick goop that goes inside the tube; small punctures will get filled in by the goop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire inserts.  These are kind of like a belt that goes between the tire and the innertube, stopping sharp pointy things from going into the tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep tires well-inflated (near the top of the recommended pressure).  This reduces the size of the contact patch and makes it more likely stuff will glance off the tire. You didn't mention them in the question, but this also prevents pinch-flats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid riding over sharp pointy things, especially when there's water around.  It's much easier to cut or puncture rubber when wet, since dry rubber tends to grab glass and metal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you do get a flat, make sure to check both for remaining pointy bits and gashes in the tire large enough for the tube to herniate out through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T19:41:12.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="370" CreationDate="2010-08-28T21:14:50.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with a helmet mounted light, as this meets your swapable requirement, and if you're riding at night, you should always be wearing a helmet anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the light itself, a name brand light from a bike or specialty manufacturer (Bontrager, Light &amp;amp; Motion, etc, etc) LED lamp should give you the best bang for your buck. Also don't forget a red tail light, which are often required by law. You can get some small elastic strap on ones for a few dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2010-08-30T01:49:07.383" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T01:49:07.383" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="199" CreationDate="2010-08-28T21:15:38.670" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should just pull the pads out and see how worn down they are - or if they are really dirty. Sometimes it helps to get some rubbing alcohol and clean the pads and rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-08-28T21:15:38.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="368" CreationDate="2010-08-28T21:19:44.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For long rides of 1-3 hours, I carry the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tube + mini pump (CO^2 if you want, tire leavers for new or difficult tires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mini tool with allen keys, spoke key and a chain tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For longer trips, you'll want to consider panniers (carry bags) and a hydration pack so you'll be able to carry the load more effectively. In general, advice on backpacking trips should apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2012-01-05T21:46:32.253" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T21:46:32.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="345" CreationDate="2010-08-28T21:23:20.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't recommended by Shimano, but some shops use a bearing puller to slide them out of the bottom bracket. I don't know if Park Tool makes one, but you should be able to find one at a specialty hardware store. Once you get them out, you can service or replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-08-28T21:23:20.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="367" CreationDate="2010-08-29T01:10:06.340" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to get flats all the time.  Then I started to notice that most of the time there were two small holes in the tube.  This is the classic &quot;snake bite&quot; or &quot;pinch flat&quot; that results from under inflation.  On my road bike I now keep at least 100 PSI in the 20mm or 23mm wide tires and (knock on wood), I haven't had a flat in years.  Wow, I hope this doesn't jinx me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally old timers will sweep their tires when they notice that they just ran through glass.  This is a tricky maneuver where you hold a gloved palm on each tire as you ride along to sweep any glass from the tire.  The thought is that on the first time around the glass is just sitting on the surface and it takes a couple of rotations to fully push the glass shard through the tire and into the tube.  I shouldn't have to say you need to be extremely careful with this, one slip up and you'll break a wrist or worse.  I typically stop and manually sweep the tires, a lot safer.  There used to be some company that sold little wire units that would lightly rub the tire as it rotates with the thought that it would keep the surface clean and reduce punctures.  Does anyone remember who made those and what they were called?  This was in the late 80's early 90's when I remember seeing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T01:10:06.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="370" CreationDate="2010-08-29T03:05:11.593" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dinotte series of lights is great, and I love mine. I can get almost 2 hours out of my 200L on high mode. It meets all of your requirements, except for the one about bumpy/gravel roads -- if you mean by that something durable, then it meets all your requirements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h8Vtv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/4393394783/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dinotte 200L headlight and battery mounted on my helmet.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T03:05:11.593" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="381" CreationDate="2010-08-29T03:24:31.417" Score="15" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to transport groceries on rough roads without breakage? (My town has a generous budget for potholes.) I currently use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/3754134016/&quot;&gt;a 2-wheeled cargo trailer&lt;/a&gt;, but it there anything I can do to cushion the more delicate items (i.e., eggs)? What about items like milk, where every pothole causes the liquid to slosh around? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-08-29T21:23:50.077" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T02:51:18.767" Title="Transporting groceries" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;utility-cycling&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="380" CreationDate="2010-08-29T04:59:17.217" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Delicate items would probably survive best in a small backpack.  Your body acts like a natural shock absorber so anything strapped to your back should get the smoothest ride, especially if you're out of the saddle for the bumpiest sections.  Remember to keep the pack light though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put heavier items like milk on a rear rack, rear panniers or ideally on a trailer.  On your back they can get really tiring and on a front rack they can really destabilize your front wheel (even worse for something that sloshes around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fragile &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; heavy?  (e.g. jars, glass bottles)  Put them in a carrier on the rear rack, but make sure they're well padded from both the bike and each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T04:59:17.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="289" CreationDate="2010-08-29T05:21:56.273" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that there is only one bolt holding the seat at the angle you want.  Put enough torque on the back of the saddle and can overcome the friction that's holding the seat in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten up that bolt as much as you dare (but you've already tried that).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the friction between the seat post and the bottom of the seat clamp -- either scuff it up or use some carbon assembly paste (ask your LBS, I've used it to keep my seat post from sliding down).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to a seat post that uses a two-bolt design to hold the seat in place.  This is what my current and previous bikes used, one bolt pulls the nose down and the other tilt the seat back.  Get enough tension on the two and your seat stays right where you want it to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-08-27T11:42:51.740" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T11:42:51.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="380" CreationDate="2010-08-29T05:28:49.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you feel about modifying your trailer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adding some suspension could absorb some of the bumps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bigger wheels and high profile (i.e. lots of rubber) low pressure tyres would also go a long way towards smoothing out bumps in the road, though a warning: if they're too wide they might reduce your manoeuvrability with the trailer attached&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some permanent padding for your trailer (and maybe a waterproof cover to keep said padding dry if you don't already use one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise maybe just a padded bag for the delicate items (and if there's only a few, definitely stick it on your back as darkcanuck suggests for maximum suspension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T05:28:49.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="386" CreationDate="2010-08-29T08:59:22.803" Score="11" ViewCount="14403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 21 speed bike (a hybrid commuting bike). But AFAIK, this does not mean that I have 21 different gear ratios. Is there any way to calculate the different gear ratios? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T10:40:16.353" Title="How many effective gears do I have on a 21 speed bike?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2010-08-29T11:45:03.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no way to calculate the actual gear ratio unless you know the sizes of the cassette and chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, you do have 19 effective gear ratios since you shouldn't shift into the two extremes. (Low front/low back, high front/high back)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="161" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T11:45:03.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2010-08-29T12:32:49.333" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excluding the two extremes (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/384/how-many-effective-gears-do-i-have-on-a-21-speed-bike/385#385&quot;&gt;Scott Robinson's answer&lt;/a&gt;), you have 19 ratios. Some of these may be very close to each other. The easiest way (although a little cumbersome) is to count the number of teeth (&lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt;) on all gears (three in front, seven rear) counting from the centerline of the bike (outwards). The ratio is given as &lt;code&gt;n(front) / n(rear)&lt;/code&gt;, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1st = n(front1) / n(rear1)&#xA;2nd = n(front1) / n(rear2)&#xA;...&#xA;8th = n(front2) / n(rear1)&#xA;...&#xA;21st = n(front3) / n(rear7)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; find identical (or nearly identical) ratios. The number of unique ratios is the number of effective gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="27" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T12:32:49.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2010-08-29T16:21:29.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that the you should only use all the rear chain rings when using the middle chain ring on the front.  When using the largest front chain ring, you should only use the bottom 2 or 3 chain rings, and when using the smaller chain ring on the front, you should only use the top 2 or 3 chain rings.  This is to prevent having too much of and angle between in the chain.  Also, you generally don't need to use those gears anyway, since they are usually the same, or in between the range of the other gears, which means they won't help you much. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_4456187_shift-gears-bicycle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;good explaination &lt;/a&gt; of how to change gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while you may effectively have 21 gears, you shouldn't use them all, as the extremes can cause your chain to strech.  Mostly, you'll use only 3+7+3, giving you 13 gears.  Some people even say to keep you chain really straight really straight, and you should only use 3+3+3 = 9.  Just try to keep your chain as straight as possible. Since there is a lot of overlap, you'll want to shoot for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sJxQrVS0KY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;straight chain as much as possible&lt;/a&gt;, over trying to use all the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T16:21:29.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="380" CreationDate="2010-08-29T16:32:57.377" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't transport a lot of groceries, but physics tells us that we really shouldn't worry about going up and down so much, but that we should worry more about things getting knocked around.  An egg in the carton shouldn't break simply because you accelerate it quickly, it's going to get broken when it takes flight and then falls back down.  Uneven pressure is the problem here. Remember, the back of a truck probably isn't any smooter of a ride than your bicycle. You should make sure that your groceries are tightly packed, so that they can't move around so much, and maybe even use bungy cords with a nice soft foam on top and on the bottom to ensure they don't bounce up and down when you do hit a pot hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T16:32:57.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="370" CreationDate="2010-08-29T16:43:02.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're just riding city streets, with street lights, you aren't going to need much in terms of illumination. More likely you will need a light that is bright enough so that The other drivers can see you. I picked up a 7-LED head lamp light from my local dollar store for $2, and mounted it to my handle bars.  You can get a second one and mount it to your helmet if you like. It is plenty bright for streets that already have street lights.  If you're looking for mountain biking, or for going on streets without street lights, you can save a lot of money by going to a site like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/products.dx/category.905&quot;&gt;deal extreme&lt;/a&gt; and checking out their selection. They have some lights that are so bright they are almost scary. Brighter than a car headlamp.  Something like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.26800&quot;&gt;cree light&lt;/a&gt; will give you a lot light. And for a really good price.  Be careful about the big names. Some of their lights aren't any different (same assembly line) than the cheap stuff you find at the dollar store, but they charge 10 times more, simply because they put a name on it.   For instance, this is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://readysmart.com/30_lumen_headlamp.html&quot;&gt;exact same headlamp&lt;/a&gt; I picked up for $2 Canadian at the dollar store, and they are charging $13 US for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T16:43:02.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="392" CreationDate="2010-08-29T19:11:16.100" Score="6" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's often easier to transport a bike in the back seat of a car with the front wheel off, rather than setting up the bike rack. I've noticed that, due to the way the car seats are built, there's often unequal stress on the fork. Do I need to be concerned with this, over the course of a few hours on the road, or is this a nonissue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike I most often transport like this has a steel fork, although I have a bike with an aluminum fork I put in the back seat every so often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T19:33:53.767" Title="Stress on front fork from car transport" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2010-08-29T19:24:22.793" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answers for a typical 21-speed commuter I could find specs on: &lt;strong&gt;20&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;19&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;15&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;12&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 is the technically right answer, 19 is a slightly more technically right answer, 15 is if you take into account gears that are nearly identical, but 12 is the practical usable answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, it's going to depend on your exact gear setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least, you really should avoid the big-front:big-back gear, since that's hardest on your derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you take @jensgram's answer and work it out on a typical bike similar to what you describe ...  I'll take the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/fx/71fx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek 7.1FX&lt;/a&gt; for my example.  The chainrings in front are 48-38-28t.  In the back it's 14-16-18-20-22-24-34r.  (Numbers are the number of teeth).  I don't know if it's typical on other hybrids, but that jump from 24 to 34 is a little unusual and they market it as a special &quot;megarange&quot; feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you work out all the ratios (I wrote a sort of little computer program up real quick to do it), the only exact duplicate ratios this gear setup has is 28:14 and 48:24, one of which is one of those extreme ranges it's suggested to avoid.  So this bike actually has &lt;strong&gt;20&lt;/strong&gt; unique gear ratios, but since one of those unique ranges is 48:34 that you should avoid, it's &lt;strong&gt;19&lt;/strong&gt; usable unique gear ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you round to only one digit after the decimal to give you the &lt;em&gt;nearly&lt;/em&gt; identical ratios, you get &lt;strong&gt;15&lt;/strong&gt; gears:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0.8 28:34&#xA;1.1 28:24 or 38:34&#xA;1.2 28:22&#xA;1.4 28:20 or 48:34&#xA;1.5 28:18 or 38:24&#xA;1.7 28:16 or 38:22&#xA;1.9 38:20&#xA;2.0 28:14 or 48:24&#xA;2.1 38:18 or 48:22&#xA;2.3 38:16&#xA;2.4 48:20&#xA;2.6 48:18&#xA;2.7 38:14&#xA;3.0 48:16&#xA;3.4 48:14&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But look carefully at what front chainrings you use to get those...  If you use the smallest front chainring with only the 3 biggest rear cogs, the middle front chainring with all but the biggest and  smallest rear, and the big front chainring with only the four smallest rear cogs, you get your whole range of gears in a way you can comprehend, but it's &lt;strong&gt;12&lt;/strong&gt; really usable gears (you skip 1.4, 2.0 and 2.7 in my above chart; all close enough to another gear)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many rear cogs it makes sense to use on each front chainring will depend on the exact gearing setup.  But if you play around with it a little you can probably just &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; it.  Switch the front chainring to the middle, switch the back to the smallest and feel that gear; then switch the front to the biggest, switch the back in by 2 or 3 gears and see if it feels about the same.  Do the same thing with the low-end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T19:24:22.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="390" CreationDate="2010-08-29T19:33:53.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much unusual stress are you talking about?  The weight of the bike all on one leg of the fork?  Or the weight of a really large person leaning back against the fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's just the weight of the bike leaning &quot;wrong&quot; on the fork, I wouldn't worry about it.  That fork leg is built to handle a lot more stress than that in normal riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's worrying you, you could always pick up a cheap hub and quick-release skewer and put that into the front fork when carrying the bike in the car like that.  That way the stresses on the fork would be shared on both sides and much more match up what happens when you're riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T19:33:53.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="380" CreationDate="2010-08-29T20:19:42.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442412491&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302693105&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bob trailer&lt;/a&gt; could be useful.  It has suspension.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BoB trailer is a one wheeled trailer so probably modifying yours to work like the Bob would be impossible.  However if you were to build a new one making something like the bob could be a good idea.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that one wheel trailers are better for rough conditions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XTu1u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: The other benefit may be that you can weave around potholes more easily.  I have a two wheeled trailer right now too but it is tricky to avoid potholes with three wheels at different spots on the road.  This may be easier with a single wheel trailer that tracks directly behind your bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2012-05-16T02:51:18.767" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T02:51:18.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="396" CreationDate="2010-08-29T20:22:35.383" Score="18" ViewCount="12208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering making or buying a bike trailer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the most important desision I need to make is whether to have a one wheeled bike trailer like the Bob or a two wheeled bike trailer.  It seems to me that both have their advantages.  Does anyone have any reason why one is preferable to the other?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One wheeled bike trailer (Bob trailer): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gT6jt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two wheeled bike trailer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G5dMK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-30T04:21:25.013" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T23:25:07.567" Title="One vs. Two wheeled bike trailers" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2010-08-29T20:24:58.580" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advantages of a one wheel bike trailer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to add suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less wide (less likely to be hit by a motorist)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages of a two wheel bike trailer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More stable at low speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Climbs better (since it does not need momentum to remain up right)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably has more cargo capacity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to make&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T20:24:58.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2010-08-29T20:29:19.273" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;One-wheeled trailers are more agile and don't increase the width of your bike.  They lean with the bike. If you're going to go really narrow places, you need one-wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two-wheeled trailers can generally carry more weight and are less prone to making the bike fall over when you stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what are you going to do with the trailer?  Going up and down mountains with narrow trails: get a one-wheeled trailer. Carrying 50kg of equipment from the hardware store home using streets and wide paths: get a two-wheeled trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T20:29:19.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="400" CreationDate="2010-08-29T20:31:12.150" Score="18" ViewCount="14147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where do you prefer to carry your water?  I find when I am mountain biking I prefer to carry my water in a hydration pack on my back (easier to rock the bike).  When road biking on flat ground I prefer to have it on the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do you keep your water to optimize speed/agility/enjoyment? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It seems to me that road bikers never use camelbacks.  Is there a reason for this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="126" LastEditDate="2010-08-31T07:10:01.640" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T04:19:14.200" Title="Where is the best place to carry water (back or bike)?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2010-08-29T20:47:01.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer it on my back in a hydration bladder, that way, it is easily accessible and out of my way.  Regardless of the type of biking I am doing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-08-29T20:47:01.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-08-29T20:59:24.593" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Montreal&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The city of Montreal, Quebec, Canada has had one for a while.  I think that there has also been one in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw a documentary on CBC's DocZone that had some info about these systems.  I think that you should be able to  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cbc.ca/documentaries/doczone/2009/pedalpower/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;watch it online&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T01:10:22.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2010-08-29T21:17:56.607" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best?  Doesn't seem like there's any one right answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros for carrying on bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight is on the bike, not you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't make your back all sweaty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No adjustments necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally easier to clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to choose alternate beverage options (with the right bottle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to just always have a water bottle on the bike (one less thing to worry about remembering to bring)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros for carrying in a hydration pack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to drink from (so you drink more often in little sips)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can drink without waiting for smooth riding (don't necessarily need to remove a hand from the handlebars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less likely to pick up dirt (cleaner; but see comment about flip-top for bottles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like the kind of cycling you're doing makes a big difference.  Mountain biking has more dirt and more rough terrain where your water bottle nozzle could pick up trail dirt and be hard to reach down and grab to drink from.  Road biking tends to have plenty of smooth pavement allowing for drinking from a bottle and not as much dirt to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mostly ride on the road and generally use a water bottle (or two or three; or a water bottle and a coffee travel mug), but if I'm going for a long ride (especially in hot weather), I'll use the hydration pack (and probably have a bottle in all 3 cages, maybe with juice or something like that in one) just to be sure I keep well-hydrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-08-31T16:12:44.170" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T16:12:44.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-29T21:48:51.977" Score="28" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Pannier&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pannier, pronounced &lt;a href=&quot;http://dictionary.cambridge.org/media/british/us_pron/e/eus/eus75/eus75855.mp3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;pan-yer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; /ˈpanyər, ˈpanēər/ (US) or &lt;a href=&quot;http://dictionary.cambridge.org/media/british/uk_pron/u/ukp/ukpam/ukpampe028.mp3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;pan-i-er&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; /ˈpanɪə/&#xA;(UK) &lt;sup&gt;[&lt;a href=&quot;http://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/british/pannier?q=pannier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/sup&gt;, is a bag designed to be mounted on the side of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1862#1862&quot;&gt;bicycle rack&lt;/a&gt;. Bags can be made of nylon, canvas, or waterproof materials such as PVC. Panniers are most commonly carried on the rear, but smaller panniers intended for a front rack are also available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://flic.kr/p/4KmxGM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOrUs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOrUs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often erroneously called a saddlebag because a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saddlebag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pannier on a motorcycle or horse&lt;/a&gt; is attached to the saddle. On a bicycle, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/403#403&quot;&gt;saddlebag&lt;/a&gt; mounts behind the rider from loops at the back of the saddle. The saddle bag goes athwartship – from side to side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes that do not have rack mounts can often accept bags that strap under the handlebars, under the top tube, and behind the seatpost. Gravel bikes often do not have rack mounts, and these alternative bags are used instead. Potentially, these may affect a bike's handling more than a rack and panniers would, because the loads are carried higher on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="38270" LastEditDate="2020-03-04T21:38:32.723" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T21:38:32.723" CommentCount="7" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-29T21:48:51.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-29T21:50:02.330" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Saddlebag&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(a.k.a. seat bag, wedge bag, etc.) Small bag designed to be attached to the underside of a bicycle saddle, usually large enough to hold tools to change a flat tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The name &amp;quot;saddlebag&amp;quot; is often mistakenly applied to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/402#402&quot;&gt;panniers&lt;/a&gt; which resemble saddlebags used on motorcycles or horse saddles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T14:31:11.430" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-29T21:50:02.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-29T21:57:21.610" Score="27" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Quick-release&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick release skewers (sometimes abbreviated QR, sometimes just called skewers) secure bicycle wheels in the dropouts. They have a lever that when opened, enables the wheel to be removed quickly and without additional tools. They use a cam mechanism at the lever end pulling against a threaded nut at the other end. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cam mechanism&lt;/a&gt; may be internal or external; the latter type is cheaper to produce and is often lighter, but it produces lower clamping force for the same amount of hand pressure on the QR lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n6ClF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a picture of a bicycle front wheel quick release assembly &quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/billjank/25358685/in/photostream/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quick-release axle&lt;/a&gt; (internal cam)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their invention is frequently attributed to Tullio Campagnolo, but Jan Heine's research shows this &lt;a href=&quot;https://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/07/01/a-reappraisal-of-tullio-campagnolo/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;may be inaccurate&lt;/a&gt;. Heine was unable to determine who invented the QR, as there appears to be no original patent for the QR mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tabs called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_l.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lawyer lips&lt;/a&gt; frequently come on fork and/or frame dropouts. They prevent the wheel from dropping out immediately when the QR lever comes open, the nut must be unthreaded several turns as well. These tabs increase the amount of time needed to operate a QR but they can be an important safeguard against improper operation of a QR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels with disc brakes may be secured by QRs or by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/41723#41723&quot;&gt;thru axles&lt;/a&gt;. Disc brakes are said to generate much greater torque than rim brakes; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sheldonbrown.com/disc-brakes.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;some experts contend&lt;/a&gt; that disc brakes can eject wheels from dropouts. Thus, increasingly disc brake bikes and wheels are secured by thru axles rather than QRs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;QRs &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;are sometimes used&lt;/a&gt; on seatpost clamps as well, to allow easy adjustment of the saddle height. &amp;quot;Quick-release&amp;quot; also refers to several other types of quick-release mechanisms that are popular on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/263#263&quot;&gt;folding bicycles&lt;/a&gt;, such as collapsible seatposts and folding frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-09-27T07:41:37.680" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-29T21:57:21.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2010-08-29T23:05:02.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personal experience is go with the one-wheel trailer... you won't even know its behind you if you pack it balanced.  My trailer is just like the first picture and while I was training for a 100+ mile ride - I loaded it down with gallon water jugs... and if I got really tired pulling it I just poured the water out(usually some on me - it gets really hot in SC).  Once I got use to it behind me - taking corners and such was really easy.  Friends of mine with two wheel trailers always have to take corners wider (increasing their turning distance) and the trailer would just tip over to one wheel when they had to take a tight corner risking stuff falling out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T15:13:24.137" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T15:13:24.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="222" CreationDate="2010-08-29T23:08:47.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if my direct pain was related to ITBS - but this cut out a lot of pain I was having: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kneesaver.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Custom Pedal Extenders&lt;/a&gt;.  I am large person and this reduced a lot of pain I was getting in my inner thighs and hip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastEditorUserId="26813" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T04:48:15.783" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T04:48:15.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2010-08-30T01:10:49.350" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The core of this question seems to be the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where do you keep your water to optimize speed/agility/enjoyment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I've never had a Camelbak, but I do drink water! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed&lt;/strong&gt;: If you mean speed of access, keeping water in a bladder is obviously the winner. If you're concerned with aerodynamics, I'd think the answer is a toss-up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Agility&lt;/strong&gt;: Water higher up on your back will make the bike a little more top-heavy. I know that carrying a half-gallon of milk in a backpack throws me off, particularly on a road bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enjoyment&lt;/strong&gt;: It depends what you mean by enjoyment. For a short ride, having something on my back isn't a big deal, unless the day is very hot indeed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T01:10:49.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="411" CreationDate="2010-08-30T01:18:46.377" Score="11" ViewCount="91910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a 'regular' bike, i.e. a bike with hand rim brakes but I've been more fascinated recently with single speed and fixed gear bikes. One of the reasons that I've held off on getting on is the braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does coaster braking and braking on a fixed gear bike compare to rim brakes?  I live in NYC and want to make sure that I can brake in all situations!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="105" LastEditDate="2021-01-18T21:58:08.183" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T14:41:25.700" Title="What is safer...coaster brakes, rim brakes, or fixed gear braking?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2010-08-30T02:09:11.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Schmidt dynamo hub and it is &quot;maintenance free&quot;.  It uses sealed cartridge bearings so there is nothing to grease.  The Shimano hub probably has a similar design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T02:09:11.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="370" CreationDate="2010-08-30T02:23:46.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/b2yDnp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Romisen &quot;RC-2R4 II R5&quot;&lt;/a&gt; LED flashlight (available from &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/b2yDnp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ShiningBeam.com&lt;/a&gt;). Its $26 + shipping and you can get two 18650 Lithium Ion batteries and a charger for another $30 + shipping from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.batteryjunction.com/combo-tl100.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BatteryJunction.com&lt;/a&gt;. All told you are looking at less than $70 for 300 lumens of spot-light in a very small (think AA Mag-light size) flashlight. Each 18650 battery will last over two hours in this flashlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a little block of foam and used a small velcro strap to mount the flashlight on my helmet (seen below with a similar-sized Jet III M flashlight):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nyksp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the Romisen light on my helmet two weeks ago combined with a 350 lumen flood light on my handle bars (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cygolite.com/products/new/MityCross/mitycross.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cygolite MityCross&lt;/a&gt; -- $175) for the 24 Hours of Great Glen mountain bike race. The combination of a spot-light on the helmet and a flood on the handlebars allowed my to ride single-track downhill at the same race-speed that I did during the day. The flood-light on the bars serves to cast shadows behind rocks and drops, giving good terrain definition for single-track racing that would be lost with just a helmet light. For dirt roads though, the Romisen spot-light on the helmet is way more than enough, throwing a large pool of light 50 yards or more ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the MityCross flood light alone for commuting, but it only casts a defined beam about 15 yards ahead which isn't quite enough for me to feel comfortable at road speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These new LED flashlights from China (like the Romisen) are giving fabulous amounts of light and are mostly are standardized on the 18650 LiIon batteries. They provide a great value and can also be used around the house and anywhere you might want a flashlight. The big thing that bike-specific lights provide is sturdy handlebar mounts (which are harder to find for flashlights) though at a large price premium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your specified dirt-road use I'd suggest that a 300 lumen LED flashlight on your helmet would be more than sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T02:23:46.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2010-08-30T02:25:55.323" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;A track bike (fixed gear) has no front or rear brakes.  You slow the bike down by resisting the turn of the pedals but you need to be careful to not push too hard, which can lock up the rear wheel and cause a skid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most fixed gears aren't true track bikes.  You should be able to find one that has standard brakes on both the front and rear wheels.  The front brake is especially important since that's where most of your braking power comes from on a normal bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A coaster brake is basically a drum brake in the rear hub.  Pedalling backwards engages the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would expect a bike with a normal front rim or disc brake to be &quot;safest&quot;.  Front brakes have much more stopping power because your weight shifts to the front wheel when slowing down.  Plus you can control the amount of braking power more easily by hand than by resisting with your feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T02:25:55.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-08-30T02:41:42.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to lots of reflective material and a good headlight, I recommend the super-bright &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nexternal.com/dinotte/Product91&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dynotte 400R tail-light&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sbaWj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This light is the brightest I could find commercially available and seems to be visible from more than 1/2 mile away in bright sunshine (and much further at night). I ride with it on at all times of day while commuting year round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my side-by side tests the 400R was significantly brighter than my car's break-lights. In the past 8 months I've had about 10 comments from drivers and as many from other cyclists about how bright the light was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastEditorUserId="167" LastEditDate="2010-08-31T19:42:33.077" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T19:42:33.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2010-08-30T04:08:37.890" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another strategy that some people use is to drive to work one day a week with what they will wear for the next four days.  You can stick that in your desk and change when you get there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T04:08:37.890" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-30T04:08:37.890" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2010-08-30T04:28:37.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two suggestions for securing your wheels, seats and components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/pitlock.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pitlocks&lt;/a&gt; are locks that will lock your wheels and seat in place.  I have never used them before but they seem like an interesting solution.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have also heard of people locking in their components by dropping a ball bearing followed by hot wax into the allen screw.  This makes it very difficult to quickly take off the components.  To do so you need a long nettle or a lighter.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Die!  Bike thieves!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T04:28:37.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="368" CreationDate="2010-08-30T07:51:03.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take the following on a ride (mtb):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puncture repair kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multitool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyre levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cable ties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duct tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyre boot material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Derailleur hanger for your bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mobile phone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cash and/or credit card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Food and water (depending on length)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a few small things that I normally take, that are necessary on long/remote rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRAM powerlink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainring bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleat bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whistle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding with a partner you can share the spares between you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T07:51:03.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-08-30T09:22:12.423" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Dublin&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a bike sharing scheme operating in Dublin and it works pretty well.&#xA;The scheme launched on September 13th 2009, so less than year ago, and as for today &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dublinbikes.ie/Magazine/News/One-million-journeys&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more then 1 million journeys were made&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The uptake of people was way grater than initially predicted, to quote the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DublinBikes#Launch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approximately 1,000 people used the&#xA;bicycles in the first six hours (day&#xA;of launch), with a further thousand&#xA;people having subscribed to use&#xA;them.&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DublinBikes#Launch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt; Some 11,000 people applied in&#xA;the first fortnight and Dublin City&#xA;Council's supply of subscriber cards&#xA;was reduced to zero, with the Council&#xA;having initially targeted a&#xA;5,000-person uptake in the first&#xA;year. More than 25,000 people had&#xA;applied to take part in the scheme by&#xA;March 2010&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the points that I think made the scheme work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clever pricing system (more below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very poor alternative in public transport around city centre&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bikes are transported by trucks if some of the spots run out of bikes and other are overloaded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the pricing, the bikes are intended to be used for short journeys within the city centre and used by as many people as possible as opposed to be used by one person for a whole day, and the pricing reflects that. Once you pay one year membership (currently 10 euro) then the following prices apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;up to 30 min - free&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 hr - €0.50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 hrs €1.50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 hrs €3.50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 hrs €6.50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as you see the first 30 minutes are free, and you should easily be able to reach each destination in the area operated by the scheme within that time. So cyclist leave the bike at the station as soon as they reach the destination, they do not hold on to it (e.g. keeping for the return journey). In that way a single bike can be used by more people&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dublinbikes.ie&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official site of Dublin Bikes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T01:08:13.143" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-30T09:22:12.423" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="370" CreationDate="2010-08-30T13:53:37.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm extremely happy with my Knog Gator.  It was a bit pricy, but definitely worth the money.  The battery lasts about 5 hours if you have the light on full power, but it has 4 different settings to make the battery last even longer.  And it takes a few seconds to swop between bikes, handle-bar mounted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T13:53:37.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="423" CreationDate="2010-08-30T14:23:02.690" Score="16" ViewCount="11199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old steel frame (Columbus Number 2 I think) that has the seat post (Suntour Superbe Pro - see, I said it was old!) rusted in. I have tried lots of WD-40 but it will not budge.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any tips on how I can get it out without having to cut the frame up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T17:04:14.247" Title="Removing Seat Post rusted into downtube" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2010-08-30T14:30:36.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut the top off of the tube then carefully use a hacksaw blade inside the seat post to cut toward the seat tube.  A handle for a hacksaw blade works or just wrap the plain blade with a bit of tape to make a handle.  You should then be able to free the old seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does the seat post extend way down into the frame? Even then this should help as the WD-40 will get a better chance to reach the lower parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T14:30:36.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="422" CreationDate="2010-08-30T14:55:32.283" Score="26" ViewCount="230578" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone pointed out that it may be risky, and it might not have the right kind of nozzle, but I don't have a bike pump at the moment.  Does anyone else ever do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastEditorUserId="26601" LastEditDate="2019-07-11T17:16:48.200" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T00:49:50.123" Title="Can I use a gas station air pump on a bike tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2010-08-30T15:06:20.197" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a tough one.  It's not impossible but you really need mechanical advantage.  If you can clamp the seatpost, you will get the best chance at freeing this.  You will probably damage/lose the seatpost with this method.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the seatpost is free of&#xA;grease and oil on the outside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the frame upside down and clamp&#xA;the seatpost into a bench vise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray WD-40 into the seattube from&#xA;the bottom bracket opening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will probably be dripping rusty colored&#xA;oil out the top of the seat tube (which is now facing the floor - you might want to put something to catch the oil under there.).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carefully hold the head tube and the&#xA;rear stays and try to rotate the&#xA;frame on the post.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Work it slowly and carefully being&#xA;sure not to bend the stays!&lt;/em&gt;*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the seat post is not&#xA;rotating in the vise (if so, clamp&#xA;tighter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process can take some time.  You will need patience and lots of WD-40.  Eventually, the post will rotate in the seat tube and you will be able to work it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The trick is knowing how much force to apply.  Sometimes you need more than you think and sometimes you apply more than you need (which results in unwanted damage).  This difference comes with experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and also: grease the new seatpost well before you put it back in - you'll appreciate it later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2010-08-30T17:39:15.597" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T17:39:15.597" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="420" CreationDate="2010-08-30T15:18:28.343" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer, in short is: Can you? In some cases, yes. Should you? In most cases, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer: The reason you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; sometimes use an automotive air-pump on a bicycle tire/tube is because they share an identical valve. (See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/284#284&quot;&gt;Schrader valve/Schrader tube&lt;/a&gt; in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index&quot;&gt;Terminology Index&lt;/a&gt;). If you have this type, you will definitely be able to get air into your tubes in a pinch. However, air hoses from gas stations are usually unregulated, high-pressure &amp;amp; high-volume, and lack a pressure gauge. Therefore, it is much easier to over-inflate and even blow out your bicycle tire, if you were to use one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An investment in a bicycle pump is one of the best you can make as a cyclist. Not only will it get you out of situations like this, but it will make it easier to keep your tires at the recommended pressure rating, which in turn will make it easier for you to be a more efficient (read: faster) bicyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T15:18:28.343" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2010-08-30T15:31:50.440" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you take any more forceful measures, it may be a good idea to think a little about chemistry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Rust' is typically the name put on any type of corrosion, but technically &amp;amp; specifically, it is the corrosion of iron (or steel) to form iron-oxides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although your bicycle is most definitely steel, your seatpost is not -- it's aluminum-alloy, which does not 'rust', but definitely corrodes (creating aluminum oxide).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WD-40 is a penetrating oil which is designed to, amongst other things, break up iron-oxides. However, it is pretty much useless against aluminum-oxides, especially when they have already corroded &amp;amp; bonded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ammonia, however, is spectacularly &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; at eliminating aluminum-oxides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, if WD-40 isn't doing the trick, get some ammonia, apply it in a similar fashion, and let it sit. It may just be all you need! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-08-30T18:47:19.227" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T18:47:19.227" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="369" CreationDate="2010-08-30T15:31:52.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;this actually works..  run down to Home Depot and buy a couple of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Builders-Hardware-Structural-Metal-Mounting-Hardware/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xgcZaq8i/R-202033905/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10051&amp;amp;catalogId=10053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;metal corner brackets&lt;/a&gt; flatten them out, primer, and paint them to match basket,  attach to basket legs and axle. Done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T15:31:52.083" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="369" CreationDate="2010-08-30T15:37:34.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen both P-clamps (a.k.a. brace clamps) and the similar, ratcheting versions used. This is actually the preferred method for some front racks on bicycles without rack braze-ons on the fork. As long as they're the right diameter, and there's a little rubber (even an old tube) between the fork and the clamp, it should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T15:37:34.630" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="368" CreationDate="2010-08-30T16:20:09.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lists are missing a chain tool.  I needed one once.  Also helped someone else out once.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T16:20:09.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-08-30T16:24:24.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I initially looked for a reflective vest but then found very inexpensive LED lights.  I got a red one that I put on the rear that I set to flashing mode, then another white one for a front &quot;headlight&quot; and another red one I clip on my backpack or other place near the rear of the bike.  I also bought a few reflecting tape pieces and hang them around the rear of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T16:24:24.563" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2010-08-30T16:40:33.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by the price, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001LA36MW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;water bottle holder&lt;/a&gt; must be the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T16:40:33.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="446" CreationDate="2010-08-30T17:01:10.530" Score="22" ViewCount="55077" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a closeup of my triple:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9g7TV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Triple Closeup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three rings are Shimano Ultegra and have never been changed.  They probably have at least 12000+ km on them.  I've been pretty good about changing the chain regularly although at this point I'm pretty sure that the rear cassette is in need of changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you compare the middle ring with the two outer ones, it looks fairly worn (shark fin pattern).  Is it bad enough to need replacing?  If I just change the chain and rear cassette will I be entering a world of pain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;  Thanks for the advice so far.  I have a new cassette and chain standing by but would need to order a new middle ring since it's a bit exotic (one LBS didn't know Shimano still made Ultegra triples).  I know that there's a lot of km's on these rings (mostly on the middle one) and I'm also familiar with the &quot;if it still skips, try changing it&quot; philosophy, but I was hoping for a more objective answer.  Something about the wear pattern or what to look for if I put a new chain on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="157" LastEditDate="2010-09-01T23:20:34.397" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T01:14:42.843" Title="Does this chainring need to be replaced?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="429" CreationDate="2010-08-30T17:19:33.077" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presumably with 12K+ km, and never having bought new chain rings, you have a very high cadence.  You should get a new chain every time you change your cassette, btw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing the work yourself, I don't see any reason to change the chain ring immediately.  Try the new cassette and chain and see how it works.  If it isn't broke, don't fix it. If it doesn't ride well after changing the first set of parts then yes, change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you are taking it to a shop and paying for the work, it's probably worth having them put on a new chain ring while they've got it in the stand.  A good shop will test ride it and be able to tell you if it is needed before you buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;12K is a lot of distance for the equipment, so I wouldn't hesitate to change it either way.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T17:19:33.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="420" CreationDate="2010-08-30T17:23:53.460" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this in a pinch if you're careful, but I don't recommend it.  Your tires need to have Schraeder valves (similar to car tires) or you'll need an adapter for a Presta valve.  Fill the tire in very short bursts, checking the pressure in between.  Err on the side of underfilling your tires -- put too much air in and you may blow the tire off the rim, which is worse than having a flat in the first place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to do this 20 years ago before I realized that there were small pumps you can take with you.  In addition to the risks, the problem with gas station pumps is that they're never there when you need them.  The one repair kit you should have with you at all times is a pump + patch kit (or spare tube).  Trust me, it can be a long, long walk home without them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T17:23:53.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2010-08-30T17:59:26.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Untested and at-your-own-risk, but this is what I would try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak the rusted join with WD-40 from above and below (ie. flip the frame and spray down the seat tube).  Let it sit for a few hours or overnight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secure the frame against something solid, like a heavy workbench (not a repair stand!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put an old saddle you don't care much about on the seat post.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hit the side of the saddle's nose with a hammer or mallet.  Use short, hard taps -- using wild swings you're liable to hurt yourself or the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to use the torque of the saddle to break the bond between the post and the frame.  You don't need to move the post much.  If the post moves, then you should be able to work it loose without the hammer.  If it doesn't, then worst case you've destroyed an old saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T17:59:26.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2010-08-30T18:10:20.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an excellent gear calculator.  You just need to know a few basic things like crank length, wheel size, etc. and then it will figure everything out for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="170" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T18:10:20.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16" CreationDate="2010-08-30T18:12:48.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mexican top-end mountain bikes Alubike, have cheaper bikes than Trek, Specialized, Giant, etc ... you can get one for $500 USD approx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alubike.com.mx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.alubike.com.mx/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Montaña = Mountain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="169" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T22:13:40.760" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T22:13:40.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2010-08-30T19:04:11.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem with a very stubborn seat post (turns out there was a wedge in it to keep the post in).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I tried was putting a blow torch on the frame to try and expand it a bit to get the post out and loosen any corrosion.  I would only try this after WD40 has failed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: this may damage your bike&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T19:04:11.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2010-08-30T19:21:01.253" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regular brakes—two hand levers, one for front and one for rear—are certainly the safest because they provide two independent means of stopping in a very controlled fashion.  If one of your brakes fail, you have another to fall back on.  A bike with coaster brakes or a fixed gear without freewheel, that also has a front brake is nearly as safe, but the rear braking action is a bit harder to control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know whether you would feel safe on a bike with just a rear brake, ride your normal bike around and only use the rear brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T19:21:01.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="439" CreationDate="2010-08-30T19:24:18.763" Score="46" ViewCount="55472" Body="&lt;p&gt;The treads on my road bike's 28C tires are almost completely gone—they only persist along the shoulders of the tire.  Do the treads matter?  What is a good indicator of when the tire as a whole needs to be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T18:39:23.237" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T09:29:46.253" Title="How do I know when to replace my tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2010-08-30T19:27:31.313" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use only a front brake on my fixed gear.  Between that and resisting pedaling I have not had a problem.  I don;t go very fast on the fixed gear so this also reduces the need for emergency/panic stops of the kind I have had to do with a road bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can put front and rear brakes on a fixed gear, but probably not necessary.  I would not ride one without a brake though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T19:27:31.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="437" CreationDate="2010-08-30T20:17:42.880" Score="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tread on a road bike's tires is really quite unimportant and purely cosmetic.  Road bike tires have tread patterns because they sell better, not because they perform better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some questions to ask to decide about replacing a tire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you see any of the fabric?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you getting flats more easily than you used to?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is any part of the tire bulging out or lumpy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there visible holes/gashes in the tire?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the wear indicator indicate you should replace?  (Some tires have dimples or grooves that are there to indicate when the tire should be replaced.  Some have an alternate color of rubber underneath, and when that shows through the tire should be replaced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smooth tread is actually ideal for road conditions, but not commonly found on tires.  If you're on hard surfaces such as pavement/asphalt, the tread doesn't help you and actually slightly reduces contact area and increases rolling resistance.  On most road tires the minimal tread pattern is just cosmetic to make their customers feel better (since a smooth tire looks slippery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#replacement&quot;&gt;comments on tire replacement&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#tread&quot;&gt;tread patterns&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to ride through mud, sand or other soft surfaces, you need tread.  So when you no longer have tread on your mountain bike or cyclocross bike's tires, it's time to replace them (unless you plan to only use them on the road).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="10961" LastEditDate="2014-04-18T12:21:59.673" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T12:21:59.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2010-08-30T21:04:52.013" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just built a trailer based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wicycle.com/cargo_diy_kit_bicycle_trailer.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wike DIY kit.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to make it after seeing &lt;a href=&quot;http://valdodge.com/2009/07/04/custom-bike-trailer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this great looking trailer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have experience with single wheel trailers.  I am happy so far, but my experience has been very limited.  The intent was to use it for local cargo runs - not long-hauling/touring&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll report more here as the months go by&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a shot of mine with its first load&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uNOuA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="37" LastEditDate="2010-10-01T02:27:38.063" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T02:27:38.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-30T21:52:25.547" Score="10" ViewCount="30809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute daily on a road bike with Shimano Tiagra STI shifter/brake levers. The rubber hoods are pretty grimy and getting sticky, torn up and unpleasant these days. Repair and replacement of pretty much everything on my bike seems very straight-forward, but I can't figure out if these parts can even be replaced, much less how to do it. Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T18:39:11.973" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T03:51:59.850" Title="How do I replace road bike hoods?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2010-08-30T22:34:29.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easiest thing to do is just cut off the old hood then take the new hood and thread it on over the bottom of the brake lever. Some are 'ergo' and have a right and left hood so make sure that you watch for right and left hoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T22:34:29.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2010-08-30T22:37:18.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the first thing you should do is take the hoods off the bars.  Usually there is a screw or an allen key that will loosen the hood on the bar.  On my hoods this is only viable when the break leaver is pulled down.  After you loosen this screw you should be able to slide the hoods along and off the bar.  (You might need to remove the tape).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T22:37:18.580" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="205" CreationDate="2010-08-30T23:31:58.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just picked up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timbuk2.com/tb2/products/handlebar-bag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Timbuk2 Handlebar Bag&lt;/a&gt;, and so far am loving it.  Has a nice velcro-down pouch, and attached to the bike via two velcro strips.  It is on the bike well enough to hold my daily lunch, u-lock, glasses and a few other things.  It also has straps to turn it into a fanny-pack style bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/78Gka.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Product Image?  Does anyone actually see this?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-08-30T23:31:58.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="367" CreationDate="2010-08-31T01:26:21.350" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, check your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html#prevention&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;road position&lt;/a&gt;.  Most of the junk ends up at the side of the road, so you are much more likely to get a flat when riding too close to the pavement/sidewalk --where you are also much more likely to &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicyclesafe.com/doorprize.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;get hit by a car door&lt;/a&gt;, clipped by a passing car, or cut off at an intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastEditorUserId="1560" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T10:29:45.910" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T10:29:45.910" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="429" CreationDate="2010-08-31T06:12:51.973" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear&quot;&gt;Sheldon's Guide&lt;/a&gt;, it definitely looks like you are in need of a new chainring.  Your middle and larger sprockets in particular look like they have taken on a significant ramp-like profile, which will surely lead to lackluster shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T14:37:29.147" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T14:37:29.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="368" CreationDate="2010-08-31T06:15:40.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically ride with the following list - some of it I take out depending on the ride and how well travelled the trails are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cliff bars/granola bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extra tube(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire irons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patch kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mini pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multi tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pocket knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;butterfly bandage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ace bandage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;zip ties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T06:15:40.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="429" CreationDate="2010-08-31T07:08:20.293" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would only replace if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain is skipping because of wear of the teeth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/&quot;&gt;chainsuck&lt;/a&gt; even when the chain is clean (small chainrings are more prone to chainsuck)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;cassettes&lt;/strong&gt; I would not consider changing unless it skips when you have put on a new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best tactic is to change your chain often enough so that you minimise the wear in your cassette and chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T07:08:20.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-31T09:59:27.390" Score="7" ViewCount="1368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen various suggestions as to how to remove the nasty plastic taste but it still seems to be the overriding taste.  I've tried bleach, vinegar, lemon juice, water purification tablets, bicarb.  I'm almost at the point of giving up and assuming that I'm ingesting carcinogenic chemicals. It isn't branded like camel-back etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any other suggestions I'm all ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="152" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-08-31T22:13:43.683" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T22:13:43.683" Title="Plastic taste in my backpack water bladder" Tags="&lt;hydration&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="437" CreationDate="2010-08-31T12:18:34.693" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many road tyres would have &lt;em&gt;wear indicator&lt;/em&gt;. Usually that would be a small hollow on the tread. As long as it is visible the tyre is ok, once it is gone, the tyre should be replaced as that indicates that the main rubber layer is worn out, the grip is no longer that good and it may not be safe to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2019-08-12T09:29:46.253" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T09:29:46.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-08-31T12:51:36.680" Score="41" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Cadence&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cadence is the number of revolutions of the crank per minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cyclists typically have a preferred cadence at which they feel most comfortable, and on bicycles with many gears it is possible to stick to a favourite cadence at a wide range of speeds. Recreational and utility cyclists typically cycle around 60–80 rpm; racing cyclists around 80–120 rpm and sprinters up to 170 rpm for short bursts. The professional racing cyclist and Tour de France champion Lance Armstrong is known for his technique of keeping up high cadences of around 110 rpm for hours on end to improve efficiency&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadence_(cycling)&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadence_(cycling)&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting pain in your knees, it could be that your cadence is too low. A cadence between 80-100 will probably reduce knee pains, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/injury-prevention/knock-out-knee-pain&quot;&gt;stated in bicycling.com&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cptips.com/knee.htm&quot;&gt;more detailed at Cycling Performance Tips web site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT by Ivor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer a comment below on beginners and cadence...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cadence is critical to enjoying your cycling and if you become involved in cycle racing, winning. Cadence is something that is learned and once learned you promptly forget about it and move onto getting other things right :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a beginner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get to know your gears. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop it into a high gear (big chainring on the front, small cog on the back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feel how hard it is to push (Pay attention to where you feel the muscles working)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop it into a low gear (smallest chainring on the front, largest cog on the back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feel how free your legs spin (Pay attention to how you bounce in the saddle :)  If you are bouncing, then you are spinning too much, i.e. your cadence is too high)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a combination of gears that allow you to spin your pedals without feeling undue pain in your muscles and doesn't make you feel out of breath. (Ignore the speed for the moment)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get to know this &quot;sweet spot&quot;, ride around in this gear for a while and adjust your gears to suit your speed so that you balance not being out of breath and over exertion. (Watch out for the bounce in the saddle :) )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next thing to take into account is how fast you want to go&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Without a bike computer? - Your feeling of relative speed is good enough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a bike computer? - Set a reasonable target, say 20 km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the gears you have selected for your sweet spot, try to hit your target speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you hit it, can you keep it going? For how long? - Set a reasonable target say 5 mins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you have finished this, where does it hurt? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In your chest? Out of breath big time? - You may have been spinning too much, i.e. your cadence was too high?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Muscles in the small of your back, quads, glutes, knees, calves groaning or hurting (not burning, burning isn't as bad as you think) - You may have been spinning too little i.e. your cadence was too low?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is an ideal cadence proposed by some sports physiologists that is somewhere between 80 to 100 turns of the pedal per minute (rpm)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The only way to know your cadence accurately is to have a cadence enabled bike computer and sensor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other way is to know your gear ratios (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecalc.com/cadence_at_speed&quot;&gt;Check out BikeCalc.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For example, You are riding your bike, it has a wheel of size 700c/29 and a tyre that is 23 mm wide,  with a front chainring of 34 teeth, a rear cog of 17 and you are pedalling at a speed of 20 km/h. You should then have a cadence of 79 rpm. Simples :) (Get the bike computer ;) )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get used to spinning your legs in that range of RPM, i.e. 80 to 100 rpm.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In all conditions, on any terrain, whatever the occasion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It trains your heart and body to be cardio fit and with a stronger heart comes better stamina and greater strength.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick up the pace and work to get the legs spinning at the next level of speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard work and worth it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go cycling with a group more experienced than you&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch them as they cycle, see all of the different styles and high cadence&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Listen to the experienced guys as they can advise on many many things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enjoy it, you will have earned it :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="518" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T10:29:35.360" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T10:29:35.360" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-08-31T12:51:36.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="475" CreationDate="2010-08-31T13:26:58.963" Score="59" ViewCount="4604" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter is just about ready to start to ride a proper bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am loathe to get her a bike with training wheels/stabilisers, as just about every kid I see with them just relies on them and doesn't learn to balance properly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What is the best method to get her riding properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T03:51:53.810" Title="What is the best method to teach a young child to ride?" Tags="&lt;children&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="21" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="449" CreationDate="2010-08-31T13:42:11.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Denture cleaning tablets - they leave a nice minty taste as well.  Locally we have a brand called Steradent (UK &amp;amp; Aus only by the looks of it) that I use to clean out bidons every once in a while to get rid of either stale or detergent tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T13:42:11.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2010-08-31T13:43:08.497" Score="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're absolutely right--children's bicycles with training wheels are good for exercise and entertainment, but they do little to nothing for balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the best way to teach anyone--children included--to ride a bicycle is to take the pedals off, lower the seat, and let them scoot &amp;amp; coast around until they develop the proper balance. Then, add the pedals, and let them coast, pedal, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For children, there are several popular brand that makes 'run bikes', which are usually made out of wood, and have neither training wheels nor pedals. They are low enough that the child can sit in the saddle and place both feet on the ground, but high enough that they can still propel themselves &amp;amp; lift their feet to coast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bikes allow the child to quickly and &lt;em&gt;safely&lt;/em&gt; develop good bicycle balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.earlyrider.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.earlyrider.com/&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.runbikes.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.runbikes.com/&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.likeabikeusa.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.likeabikeusa.com/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-08-31T13:56:54.903" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T13:56:54.903" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2010-08-31T13:49:47.403" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I was raised &quot;old school&quot;.  My dad put me on my first huffy - got behind me and pushed me down the driveway.   Well, after 10 to 15 times busting my tail, I got the hang of staying up and was riding on my own in about 2 hours.  Afterwards, as I rode through the yard (I grew up on a four acre yard) I crashed, got up and kept going.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just make your daughter dress in blue jeans, good shoes with laces tucked in, elbow pads and a helmet.  Take her to a park or large field where she can crash and get up and try again with worrying about traffic, people, etc.  Also, EVERYONE crashes to start with and you can’t be afraid that your child will crash.  DO NOT freak out or act scared if she crashes – act like it was expected (it really is) and do not baby her if she does. It will only make her scared and apprehensive about trying again.  My dad would say walk it off, quit whining, etc. and that would make me more resolved to succeed. He also taught my 4 sisters to ride the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taught two nephews and one niece to ride – my sisters tried but always babied them letting them quit trying after one crash… which you should never do no matter how much you think you are being mean.  Letting them quit will only make it harder for them to learn later.  Riding a bicycle is REALLY easy as long as you are willing to try and somethings parents should make their child learn because it allows them to have a tangible achievment in their life and teaches them a skill they can enjoy the rest of their life - like we do!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T13:49:47.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2010-08-31T13:56:49.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't get a replacement hood, a desperate, last option &quot;hack&quot; is to get some cushioned handlebar tape and wrap it around the lever body.  You can use electrician's tape to hold the last end and stop the tape from unraveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T13:56:49.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="476" CreationDate="2010-08-31T14:04:16.503" Score="11" ViewCount="34585" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been a while since I had my bike serviced and the gears are sometimes slightly out of perfect alignment. This results in the occasional mis-shift.  I also think the change in seasons have played a part.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What do I need to do to get it back to perfect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T06:29:14.920" Title="How do I adjust my rear derailleur (Shimano SIS) when it is only slightly out?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="465" CreationDate="2010-08-31T14:16:39.097" Score="17" ViewCount="5371" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I say &quot;angle my foot,&quot; I mean in relation to the ground. Is it best to keep your foot level throughout the stroke? Should I point my toes downward or upward at any point? I'm wondering what's best for power transfer, and for your feet and ankles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T18:51:26.427" Title="How should I angle my foot throughout a pedal stroke?" Tags="&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2010-08-31T14:22:19.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never tried them out, so I can't vouch for them personally, but these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegyrobike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wheels with a gyroscope&lt;/a&gt; look like a really good idea. I've heard good reports about them as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T14:22:19.173" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="794" CreationDate="2010-08-31T14:38:50.070" Score="20" ViewCount="2294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build up to longer rides (75 - 100 miles). I usually only have time for one long ride a week. I can squeeze in one or two shorter rides of 20 miles or so. How can I build mileage under those kinds of time constraints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious answer is to go out and ride a little longer each ride, and I'm doing that. I am really looking for supplemental workouts or cross training ideas. My legs and lungs are doing well with the increases but my shoulders, back and arms are not. Frankly even ways to get used to being on the saddle that long would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other aerobic exercises are best? (running, swimming, etc.)&#xA;What other strength/flexibility exercises will help? (yoga, back/shoulder exercises, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-06T20:41:32.243" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T20:41:32.243" Title="Cross Training routines for longer rides" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2010-08-31T15:13:37.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing about training wheels is that it get them on the bike and fast.  They get a feel for what it takes to pedal, wear a helmet, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I found is that my kids had little or no problem making the transition to a riding without training wheels. Yeah it took some time the first day but they were used to the mechanics of riding if not the true feel of two wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T03:51:53.810" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T03:51:53.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="459" CreationDate="2010-08-31T16:13:35.147" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most people the advice goes that you keep your foot as flat as possible. There are some riders that ride toes down (even some famous ones in the Tour) but they've had a coach determine that in their specific case there is benefit to riding toes down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that you can keep your foot entirely level as it comes over the top of your pedal stroke but it should be level through the power stroke and around the bottom as you pull back on the pedal to spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a response to one of the other posters, be very careful about ankling. While it is touted as a great thing many coaches feel that it does nothing and is an old wives tale. Some even feel it's harmful to you. I've attached some links for futher reading on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_an-z.html#ankling&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_an-z.html#ankling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/ankling.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/ankling.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/?pg=fullstory&amp;amp;id=4812&quot;&gt;http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/?pg=fullstory&amp;amp;id=4812&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roberts-1.com/b/pt/ankling/discuss/index.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.roberts-1.com/b/pt/ankling/discuss/index.htm&lt;/a&gt; (good links in post)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://triandrunsports.com/triforum/index.php?topic=2362.0&quot;&gt;http://triandrunsports.com/triforum/index.php?topic=2362.0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/perfect-pedal-stroke&quot;&gt;http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/perfect-pedal-stroke&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the reading above, and other articles on the subject, I'm inclined to recommend against it. At the very least talk to a medical professional who can look at your pedaling technique and biomechanics and advise properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-08-31T18:20:16.027" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T18:20:16.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="463" CreationDate="2010-08-31T16:16:51.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a strong core is crucial to being comfortable. In addition to riding 4 days a week I whitewater kayak a few nights a week. The twisting done in that sport helps keep your core strong as well as working the arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest that yoga, and pilates are good core/flexibility workouts that you should look into to get your core strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long ride saddle comfort is also a product of a proper bike fit. You may have a stem that's too long and making you reach farther than you should. Looking into a bike fitting at you LBS is probably something worth your time to make sure that it fits you as well as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T16:16:51.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2010-08-31T16:19:36.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can probably use the barrel adjuster on the derailleur to tighten or loosen the cable slightly and get the shifting back to perfect. Put it up on a stand or flip it over and shift and play with the barrel adjuster. Knowing which way to spin it is more a matter of experience with adjusting gears than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T16:19:36.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-31T17:09:39.223" Score="22" ViewCount="15682" Body="&lt;p&gt;are there any child seats that can be used for twins (6 month old)? I don't like the idea of putting them in a trailer as I suspect its easy for cars to not see it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - special bonus point to anyone who knows of a solution that is compatible with a tag along bike (used by a five year old)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; I am discussing some custom options with local bike mechanic, will report back when I have update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-25T06:23:28.570" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T09:38:54.647" Title="Recommendations for transporting twins on the front of a bike" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;children&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="463" CreationDate="2010-08-31T17:26:41.767" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your approach to building up distance is a great tried-and-true method.  I do a fair number of long distance (200-600km) rides but don't currently do any type of cross training.  Like yourself, I started out with shorter distances and gradually built up to longer and longer rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With more and more time on the bike, you will start to notice all of those little areas where your riding position needs tweaking.  A fresh bike fit might help dial in your comfort more.  It sounds like you could use a stem adjustment -- a bit shorter or higher will give you a more relaxed position.  Many riders are positioned too aggressively on the bike and this really shows up over longer distances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to take more care of your body on long rides.  It's important to get out of the saddle regularly, long before anything starts to hurt.  Same goes for moving your hands around on the bars.  Stretching out your neck, shoulders and arms during the ride will also help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to add some cross-training, anything that strengthens your core or adds flexibility will help (see &lt;em&gt;curtismchale&lt;/em&gt;'s answer).  Swimming is fantastic for your core.  I haven't tried yoga or pilates but I imagine they would help too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T17:26:41.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="483" CreationDate="2010-08-31T17:46:00.080" Score="29" ViewCount="97646" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I run my mountain bike at the suggested PSI/Bar on the tire/rim?  Or should I run it a bit lower?  Or is it more about conditions?  Should I run lower if I am running on softer terrain? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T18:22:56.953" Title="What pressure should I run my Mountain Bike tires at?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="471" CreationDate="2010-08-31T18:02:58.280" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally run what the tire says. If you know the terrain is slick rock or really loose and will require more contact between the tire and the surface then make them a bit softer. This will increase the chance of pinch flats though so be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost always run my front tire a bit softer than my back since most of my weight is on the back tire. Just something I've found that I prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T18:02:58.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="463" CreationDate="2010-08-31T18:09:19.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a really big hill in your neighbourhood and on your 20 Mile rides do say a 5 mile warm up and then do seated climbs all the way up, rest on the way down, and repeat till you run out of time and ride home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't climb out of the saddle, make it a seated climb, and you will build strength all over as needed that is of great value in riding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will rarely do 20 miles of climbing, so this will help you through the hard parts of your longer rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though there is value to finding a long shallow hill.  5-10 miles long, but not very steep to practice spinning and climbing on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2010-09-01T17:41:09.253" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T17:41:09.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="471" CreationDate="2010-08-31T18:11:59.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on that the trails are like as well as your weight. If you are riding really flowy trails with few obstacles, jumps, or drops, you can probably ride a bit under 25psi if you are light. THis will give you significantly more traction and control.  If you are riding trails with jumps and drops, you will want to air it up more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With rockier trails, you will want to ride at a higher psi to avoid pinch flats. These are the kinds of trails that I typically ride and I usually go with 30 - 35 psi in the front and 35 - 40 psi in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T18:11:59.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2010-08-31T18:13:32.640" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad taught me, my two sisters, my neices and nephews the same basic way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On grass.  Get them on a two wheeler, no training wheels, but with helmet on, and start em up on the grass.  Find a field that is smooth (maybe a slight downhill to start on) and push them and let them go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grass is harder to ride on, but soft enough to fall on without damage that will get Mommy mad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T18:13:32.640" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2010-08-31T18:38:53.653" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adjusting the rear derailleur is a matter of tightening or slackening the shifter cable so that the chain runs smoothly for all rear cogs.  The easiest way to do this is using a barrel adjuster -- there's normally one where the cable runs into the derailleur and you may have another where the cable runs into the shifter or on the downtube for a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the barrel adjuster from the point of view of the cable &lt;em&gt;housing&lt;/em&gt; (not the bare cable) running into it, turning the adjuster clockwise will slacken the cable and counter-clockwise will tighten it.  Adding slack to the rear derailleur should adjust the chain towards the small cog, tightening moves it towards the large cog.  If the barrel adjuster doesn't give you enough range, then you'll have to adjust the slack where the cable clamps into the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your bike in a stand, or flipped upside-down, change to your middle chainring (for a triple) and try it out.  You should be able to see small movements in the derailleur as you tweak the barrel adjuster.  I like to get the middle cog dialed in really well (change gears in/out this cog) and then check that this setup works for all of the others.  You'll probably have to adjust this slightly once you ride the bike.  &lt;em&gt;(Once you get comfortable with this, you can actually tweak the derailleur mid-ride without stopping if you have a barrel adjuster on the shifter or down tube)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After tweaking the derailleur setup, you should also double-check the limit screws just to be on the safe side.  These are two screws on the derailleur that adjust how far it can move.  One keeps the chain from going past the large cog (sometimes marked L?) and the other does the same for the small cog (H?).  Make sure that the derailleur cannot move the chain off of the end cogs.  Turning the appropriate screw clockwise should push the limit in towards the center of the cassette, counter-clockwise normally gives the derailleur more freedom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are a whole range of other problems that can affect shifting (worn chain, worn cogs, bad chain line, worn cable/housing, sticky derailleur, etc.), but try this first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T18:38:53.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="459" CreationDate="2010-08-31T18:51:26.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most hard-soled cycling shoes position your heel slightly above the ball of your foot (so a slight toes-down angle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's probably the angle I maintain throughout each pedal stroke, but to be honest I don't think about it much, nor do I know what's &quot;correct&quot;.  I focus on trying to make smooth circles and let my ankles do what comes naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Focusing on pointing my toes down seems to help on tough spinning climbs, but it's probably just a psychological trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T18:51:26.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="482" CreationDate="2010-08-31T19:04:02.733" Score="21" ViewCount="9358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small spot of rust on the bottom side of my steel frame's top tube (Columbus Niobium tubing).  It's from abrasion during transport that I didn't notice until it was too late.  The spot is about 2cm x 2cm and most the worn area is white in colour (base coat or primer?) but there's a bit of rust forming in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not ready to get the frame totally repainted so what's the best way to get this patched up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T19:48:54.943" Title="Dealing with rust on a steel frame" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;rust&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="478" CreationDate="2010-08-31T19:21:33.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've typically cleaned the area and just used clear nail polish to seal it again. You have to do it every month or so but if you're vigilant then it works. Kept my 10 year old MTB frame fairly rust free with this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also be interested in better methods that seal longer term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T19:21:33.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="463" CreationDate="2010-08-31T19:26:53.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who is a stairmaster / row machine addict in the off season when there isn't enought light to ride before/after work.  He never slows or weakens even though he may spend up to 4 months off the bike during winter.  As for me, I have an indoor trainer and up the resistance along with doing intervals when I can't go out.  An half hour to fourty-five minutes of intervals (1 minute sprint - 2 minute easy spin - repeat) works me a LOT more than even a 2 hour ride does!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T19:26:53.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="468" CreationDate="2010-08-31T19:32:33.097" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is pretty unconventional and not necessarily available to you, but here's some food for thought. Friends of mine had had a custom 'rack' built for their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=ute&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kona Ute&lt;/a&gt; by a local rack &amp;amp; frame-builder to transport their two daughters (although they are much older). It came out exceptionally well (plus the girls love it):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yr6f3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Photo courtesy &lt;a href=&quot;http://lovermother.blogspot.com/2010/05/oh-bike-how-i-love-you.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lois Keenan&lt;/a&gt;, rack by &lt;a href=&quot;http://racknroll.blogspot.com/search/label/kona%20ute&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dan Neidz&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T19:32:33.097" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="478" CreationDate="2010-08-31T19:48:54.943" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best method for handling exterior frame rust depends on how much time you'd like to invest. The difference comes down to what you use to complete the two basic steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the rust&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good&lt;/strong&gt;: Sandpaper - Cheap, but wont remove all the rust, and may leave debris.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Better&lt;/strong&gt;: Steel Wool - Will remove most of the rust, but may leave steel wool fragments, which can rust in turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Best&lt;/strong&gt;: Brass Wool - Since brass will not 'rust' (oxidize) like steel, any fragments left behind won't cause the frame to rust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover up the spot&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good&lt;/strong&gt;: Nail or auto polish - Not technically the best sealant, also will wear faster and will need to be re-applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Better&lt;/strong&gt;: Auto or spray paint, primer, or a clear lacquer - More water-tight, longer lasting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Best&lt;/strong&gt;: Bicycle paint - This is a given. =]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important point to note, though, is to &lt;em&gt;remove&lt;/em&gt; as much of the rust as possible before painting. Simply painting over the rust will just seal it in, and allow it to continue rusting away beneath the layer of paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T19:48:54.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="471" CreationDate="2010-08-31T20:06:25.467" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire pressure is generally a trade-off between three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolling resistance (more pressure == rolls easier)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pinch flat resistance (more pressure == less chance for the tube to tear when a rock squashes the tire toward the rim)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grip (with less pressure, the tire can conform better to rocks, roots, and other terrain giving a larger contact surface)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding terrain where grip isn't too much of an issue (flat or low-angle dirt and dry rocks for example), then higher pressure will keep you going fast without pinch flatting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding steep downhills and/or on slippery open rock outcroppings, grip will be more important than rolling resistance, so use as little pressure as won't pinch-flat quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a 4th trade-off as well: weight. You can buy double-sidewall downhill tires that allow you to run very low pressures (such as 25psi) without any danger of pinch-flatting, but these can weigh almost double what normal cross-country tires do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in other answers, your tires don't have to be the same pressure. Usually grip is more important on the front tire since most of your weight is on it while descending difficult downhill sections. Similarly, when riding on flat or climbing, most of your weight is over the back tire, so rolling resistance and pinch-flat resistance are more important for the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally ride with a low-pressure (30psi in a tire rated 35-65psi) double-sidewall downhill tire on the front and with a higher pressure (50psi in a tire rated 45-65psi) cross-country tire on the rear. I sacrifice some weight, but otherwise get the best of both worlds: fabulous grip going down and easy rolling on the flats and climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your best judgment in going below the rated pressure of the tire, as pinch flats become more likely. If you go below the rated pressure, be sure to test it out on hard impacts (such as a rock-corner) on easy terrain before throwing yourself at high speed down a mountain where a blow-out would be catastrophic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastEditorUserId="167" LastEditDate="2010-09-04T15:15:06.727" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T15:15:06.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-08-31T20:16:21.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The favorite thing I've found for lighting is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://flashbakonline.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FlashBak&lt;/a&gt;. It's a bunch of super-bright orange LEDs. Orange, to motorists, means &quot;slow&quot; - while RED is the DOT standard and required for the rear at night, I've never understood why we don't see more orange lighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you can't be TOO VISIBLE. lots of blinkylights, lots of reflect-o-stuff. Take everything you've seen mentioned in every reply and do all of it, and you still could add more to make yourself seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the problem is that motorists filter stuff out. They look in a general direction without seeing things they aren't looking for. Most of them are only looking for gigantic  multi-ton hunks of metal and glass lumbering down the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2010-10-15T09:23:55.100" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T09:23:55.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="471" CreationDate="2010-08-31T20:21:33.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other answers, but my strategy is to run the lowest pressure I can while consistently avoiding pinch flats. There's too many variables to come up with a general answer (bodyweight, trail type, tire manufacturer), but I find that something in the mid-30's is safe for me (200+lbs, xc race courses). If you want to play it safe, find a safe pressure and add 2-3 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, always check your tire pressure, taking the few minutes before most rides keeps you riding longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T20:21:33.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="493" CreationDate="2010-08-31T21:01:30.490" Score="7" ViewCount="4877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a mountain bike which occasionally drops the chain off the lowest gear, and then the chain gets stuck in the bottom bracket.  This happens while pedalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the chain is there, it takes either a lot of pulling (potentially bending the chain), or removing the crank to get the chain out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, it's a pain when it happens on the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm not talking about chain suck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I've seen products like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slimmerandfitter.com/cycling/deda-dog-fang-chain-keeper-review/&quot;&gt;Deda dog fang chain watcher&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/whatis.html&quot;&gt;Jump Stop&lt;/a&gt;, anyone have any experience with these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2010-09-01T16:14:32.640" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T16:14:32.640" Title="How can I keep my chain from falling off the inner chainring? (specifically, from getting stuck in the bottom bracket)" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="494" CreationDate="2010-08-31T21:17:13.000" Score="9" ViewCount="716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_trainer&quot;&gt; indoor cycle trainer &lt;/a&gt;. I had a look on ebay. There are a lot, and the price ranges from under 20 pounds to several hundred pounds. Quality and function range accordingly, so I'm a bit lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main reason for getting it is to use it for cardio fitness training. So, I'm looking for something that meets these criteria&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) Its got to be stable (no annoying rocking / wobbling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b) As small/compact as possible so it can be packed away (while meeting criteria a)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;c) I can change the resistance, or incline to increase the cardio workout. Preferably mid workout. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a trainer that meets these requirements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T21:41:15.503" Title="What should I look for in an indoor cycle trainer?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="229" CreationDate="2010-08-31T22:35:22.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of a 'specific' way but I'm fairly certain that if you got the bike frame vertically level then placing a level across your seat would show you if the seat is level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T22:35:22.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="468" CreationDate="2010-08-31T22:35:57.243" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always get a seat for one in front of you (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000H4E7EO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;handlebar mounted child seat&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA; and the second behind you (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000ISXSSA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;conventional rack-mount child seat&lt;/a&gt;).  Probably have to have them trade off to minimize fights, since the front seat is probably a lot more fun (and easier to watch the kid).  I see a couple around town where the wife carries their kid in a handlebar mounted seat that looks just like that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could get an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xtracycle.com/cargo-bicycles/freeradical-cargo-bicycle/freeradical-super-commuter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Xtracycle&lt;/a&gt; and get the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xtracycle.com/cargo-bicycles/cargo-bike-accessories/peapod-lt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;peapod&lt;/a&gt;&quot; accessory to put two kids on the back of your now-longtailed bike.  There's probably similar options for other longtailed bikes, or simply seats that you can mount two of two a longtailed bike...  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://cog.konaworld.com/archives/4466&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kona Ute&lt;/a&gt; with two peapods on the back: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RbvR9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should check the age, though...  I understand that you want to wait until a couple of months after the child can hold their own head up (the helmet makes it even harder on the child's neck, but small children really need to be wearing a helmet).  Something like 9 months?  Or maybe find a seat arrangement that has the kid laying down instead of sitting upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a solution that's compatible with a tag-along bike, you probably need something that puts both kids in front of you.  A bakfiet's probably way too expensive, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see lots of parents carrying kids on bikes, but only ever a single kid &lt;em&gt;on&lt;/em&gt; the bike, if there's 2 or more kids, all the others are in a trailer, on a trail-a-bike or on the other parent's bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I don't have kids and have never tried to carry even one on a bike.  Closest I've ever come is either a lot of groceries on the bike or an adult on a trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T22:35:57.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4680" CreationDate="2010-08-31T22:38:13.120" Score="5" ViewCount="6526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have SRAM X5 Shifters like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fQfzu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SRAM X5 Shifter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The indicator is now showing the gear above the one I'm actually in, so if like the picture it shows a 2 I would actually be in 1 (the smallest chainring), a 3 showing means I'm on the middle chainring and no indicator means I'm on the biggest chainring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried searching for tutorials on overhauling the shifter in the hopes that these would include the gear indicator but all of the ones I've found seem to deal only with the actual shifter part of the array and not the indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if it is possible to fix the gear indicator? Can you point me towards (or give me a run through) of how to go about fixing it if it's possible to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than showing the wrong gear everything else about the shifter works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T02:47:40.387" Title="Gear indicator on SRAM X5 Shifter shows wrong gear" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="486" CreationDate="2010-08-31T22:46:19.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, is it falling off when you shift, or is it more of a &quot;big jump knocks chain off chainring&quot; type issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's falling off when you shift, you may want to adjust the front derailer's low-gear limit stop, which is probably a small bolt/screw head of some sort on the front derailer (but which one will depend on model/age...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's falling off otherwise, there's several options out there for chain watchers.  Here's 3: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/derailers-front.html#deflectors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/derailers-front.html#deflectors&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T22:46:19.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="486" CreationDate="2010-08-31T22:46:54.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a bottom limiter screw on the front derailleur which may be of some help. Tension it up till it just goes far enough to shift. It's also possible that your rear derailleur isn't taking up the chain slack properly and is letting it bounce as you go over bumps. This would cause the bottom of the chain to slap as it goes forward to the front ring and could cause it to come off. In that case you might see about replacing the rear derailleur with one on which the tension springs are newer and reduce the slap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T22:46:54.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="488" CreationDate="2010-08-31T23:53:21.987" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't recommend any specifics offhand, other than I've used two different types of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tacx.com/&quot;&gt;Tacx&lt;/a&gt; trainers and have been very happy with them. Both were in the $150-$200 range new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of comments though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a &amp;amp; b: Virtually any trainer on the market is going to be pretty stable unless you are out of the saddle and sprinting. As long as it's not a really low end one if you are wobbling you might want to spend some time working on spinning smoothly. And most everything on the market will fold up a bit, though not tiny. Think something in the loose ballpark of the size of half a wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c. If you're looking lower on the budget range, don't worry about not being able to switch the resistance mid-workout on the trainer. You can get a wide range of workout just by shifting gears on your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d. (you didn't mention this one) Noise level. Some of the wind and magnetic trainers are &lt;em&gt;loud&lt;/em&gt;. If you can try it out, great. The tacx trainers I've used were relatively quiet. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minourausa.com/&quot;&gt;Minoura&lt;/a&gt; one I've used was painful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2010-08-31T23:53:21.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="488" CreationDate="2010-09-01T02:36:52.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot recommend a specific model, there are way too many products.  I have a Cyclops Fluid trainer that is ok.  I hate riding a trainer, it is too dang hot indoors for me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tripod stands most trainers use look less stable than you would imagine, but they really can be quite stable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a fluid trainer, the harder you ride, the harder the resistance.  So actually spinning fast is pretty hard to do on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the tripod style ones, the support legs fold back to the frame, so it is as thick as the resistance mechanism is thick.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would NOT get a wind trainer!  Even the fluid trainer I have is louder than I would like, but the other options are louder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T02:36:52.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="688" CreationDate="2010-09-01T02:51:56.143" Score="25" ViewCount="11849" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of snow in the winter where I live. Different kinds of snow; soft, sticky, wet, etc. And ice too. It can get pretty cold: -25 °C (-15 °F). We drop salt, sand and gravel on our roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to buy a bike that I'll be using this winter for commuting to work. What kind of brake will work best in all kinds of wet and icy situations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in braking performance as much as long-term durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T00:04:01.443" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:40:15.303" Title="What type of brakes is least subject to failure in the winter?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;ice&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2010-09-01T03:04:05.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll probably have the best luck with disc brakes, any other type will loose their power in the wet and snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T03:04:05.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="498" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-01T03:05:50.293" Score="8" ViewCount="877" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the winter, it seems that whatever I do, my rear derailleur stops functioning after few weeks of commuting in light snow. Ice always gets in there somehow, and the chain refuses to move the wheel, skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike always stays outside (covered but unheated at home, outside at work) all the time, and I tried to bring it in for a melt every day, and every week. This seems to make the problem worse, so that even if there is no snow and the freewheel looks fine, the freewheel skips. Maybe rust has gotten in there, now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to prevent the freewheel to skip after few weeks of usage in snowy conditions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not interested in internal gear hubs for now, as they are much more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-01T06:53:45.173" LastActivityDate="2017-11-02T13:01:39.373" Title="What can I do to keep my rear derailler in good condition when commuting in the snow?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="498" CreationDate="2010-09-01T04:57:24.563" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not much you can do aside from cleaning your drivetrain often and thoroughly. In the winter, ice is far less of a mechanical issue than is rock salt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may indeed have some corrosion in the entire drivetrain by this point, not just the deraileur, or possibly just dirt if you're lucky. I'd do one major cleaning at this point, and see if that takes care of the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd remove the chain entirely and let it soak in addition to cleaning the deraileur and cogs. Failing that, you can get a chain-cleaning device and use that. It's not as thorough, but still better than nothing by far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, I'd clean my drivetrain once every week or two, depending on conditions. Also keep in mind that you may need to lube more often. None of these are really a big deal, once you set up a space (an old towel on the floor will do it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of this helps, it's time to look into possible mechanical causes. Riding on ice and snow, I often find pebbles and grit in my drivetrain, more than in any other season. Possibly you have a bent tooth or other mechanical issue? You can give the drivetrain a good inspection while you clean it, looking for any problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-18T16:14:40.517" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T16:14:40.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="471" CreationDate="2010-09-01T06:58:44.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that you should run the lowest pressure you can without the tyre rolling off the rim on corners or burping on rocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The assumption that harder tyres have less rolling resistance is not necessarily true, here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbonline.co.za/downloads/Rolling_Resistance_Eng_illustrated.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;study&lt;/a&gt; showing the opposite. [updated link, if it breaks again, search Google for &quot;Rolling Resistance Eng Illustrated&quot;.  The document was originally written by Schwalbe Tires]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T16:15:17.983" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T16:15:17.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2010-09-01T09:11:44.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are especially useful in areas that have a lot of thorns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with you that tubeless conversion are a hassle, however you do get tubeless specific rims that don't require a conversion (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.com/mtb/technologies/UST.1.9405.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UST&lt;/a&gt; by Mavic, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geax.com/en/technology/?cat=20&amp;amp;prod=77&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TNT&lt;/a&gt; by Geax or &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/technology/why_tubeless_ready&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TLR&lt;/a&gt; by Bontrager) that simply things tremendously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T09:11:44.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="506" CreationDate="2010-09-01T10:36:39.233" Score="23" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the popular bike routes near me has a few groups that ride together on Saturday and Sunday. The groups get as big as 30 to 40 riders and they move fast (25 to 35 mph). I have occasionally joined the group at the very back and hung on for dear life. Being at the back, I always get dropped when they speed up. Does anyone have any advice on how to get comfortable farther up in the pack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a mostly flat road with some rather poorly maintained sections of potholes. It is usually the potholes that cost me enough speed to drop off. In the middle of the pack am I just stuck hitting whatever is in my line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the curious, the route is Sheridan Road along Lake Michigan north of Chicago. Great ride if you are ever in the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastEditorUserId="9" LastEditDate="2010-09-01T12:30:41.650" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T13:40:04.157" Title="What are some good tips for riding in a large group?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="502" CreationDate="2010-09-01T12:04:46.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest getting to the front of the pack whenever possible, this is especially true before climbs or other obstacles.  This gives you the opportunity to slip back relative to the front of the pack but still stay in touch at the end of the climb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly you can get fitter and then put the hurt on the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T12:04:46.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2010-09-01T12:49:22.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;@curtismchale is right about disc brakes, but if you do stay with standard brakes you might need to change the pads to something softer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are good winter tips (including brakes) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.veloweb.ca/commuterpages/wintervelos.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T12:49:22.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1406" CreationDate="2010-09-01T13:36:56.403" Score="10" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that tyre pressure is a pretty subjective thing with many factors coming into play (tyre type, terrain etc.) but would I be able to run lower pressures for the same conditions on a 29er than on a 26er due to the larger tyre footprint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: I typically run my tubeless tyres on a 26er between 2.0-2.3 bar (29-33 psi) would I be able to run the pressure in the 1.8-2.0 bar (26-29 psi) range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T06:19:01.450" Title="Tubeless tyre pressure on 29er wheels?" Tags="&lt;29er&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="502" CreationDate="2010-09-01T13:53:19.783" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Group rides of this size and speed often consist entirely of racers. If a steady double paceline hasn't formed, then to be more specific, this is one of those rides that is, in effect, a race itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with that in mind, so some general thoughts about these types of group rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they are all wearing the same jersey and you are not, ask permission to join in first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the same line as the rider in front of you in turns. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice bumping shoulders and hips with some friends on a soft, grassy field so the first time you take an inadvertent bodycheck isn't at 35mph.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protect your front wheel. Your invisible wheel fairies live within a foot or so of your front wheel. Do not let anyone else's wheels steal them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That said, do not stare at the wheels in front of you, look up the road, hips of the rider in front of you is often a good place to look for distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You probably want to, if at all possible, be at the front, but not &lt;em&gt;on the front&lt;/em&gt;. In a group of 30-40 riders, this means probably in the top 10 or so. Note that everyone else wants to be here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not take it personally if you get yelled at. Contemplate what you did that caused yelling and endeavor not to do it again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get more speed. Racing is more about dealing with high speed surges where you have to ride at 30+mph while Exciting Things Happen than it is about keeping a good average speed. Try to stay on and sprint as hard as you can when things get fast until you get dropped. You will get faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are not yet comfortable, there is nothing wrong with hanging out at the back, suffering and watching how the ride unfolds. It takes a while to get comfortable riding close to other guys at these speeds. Take it easy, it's safer for everyone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T13:53:19.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-01T15:10:20.537" Score="8" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute 11 miles to work, and at least once a month, at about mile 2, I'll look down and notice I left my water bottle on the counter at home!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tricks do you have to make sure this doesn't happen to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T11:51:59.110" Title="What do you do to make positive you remember your water bottle?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2012-03-05T23:53:17.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2010-09-01T15:19:05.073" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the other answers, disc brakes are the only way to go if you plan on your brakes getting wet at all. After riding disc brakes for a while now, I will never go back, even in good conditions. I would also really recommend hydraulic disc brakes over mechanical ones, especially in poor conditions. With hydraulic brakes, you don't have to pull as hard to get the same amount of stopping power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T15:19:05.073" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2010-09-01T15:25:34.183" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine stays on my bike all the time. After I clean/fill it, I put it back on my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do run the risk of forgetting to fill it up, but the worst that's happened so far is that I've ended up with half a bottle of day old water. Which is much better than no water :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2010-09-01T15:44:09.007" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T15:44:09.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2010-09-01T15:28:28.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a camelbak - if I am planning on riding the next day, I will fill it up the night before and stick it in the fridge.  The camelbak is great, not just because you can take more water but you can also carry tools, extra tubes/patch kit, a pump...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T15:28:28.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2010-09-01T16:39:27.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fill mine up the night before and put them infront of the coffee cream. I always have coffee and when the bottles are in the way I just put them on the bike right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T16:39:27.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="537" CreationDate="2010-09-01T17:04:48.713" Score="13" ViewCount="1516" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has Cerebral Palsy (CP) so can’t balance on a normal bike, what are the options so she can go cycling with me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't own a van, the size of any &quot;bike&quot; is important as it will have to fit in a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-04T03:15:52.963" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T22:21:06.293" Title="My wife has Cerebral Palsy (CP) so can’t balance on a normal bike, what are the options so she can go cycling with me?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;tricycle&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-01T17:05:58.157" Score="3" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is easy to find folding bike, but where do you get a folding tricycles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2010-09-01T17:11:16.863" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T03:14:35.997" Title="Are there any folding adult tricycles on the market in the UK?" Tags="&lt;tricycle&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-09-24T13:20:55.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="598" CreationDate="2010-09-01T17:07:55.430" Score="10" ViewCount="1346" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife thinks that she can't use a recumbent on the roads, as a car driver will not be able to see it.  What’s the solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-02T06:40:17.637" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T18:25:27.430" Title="As recumbents are low to the ground and hard to see, how to you use one safely on a normal road? " Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-01T17:10:29.957" Score="13" ViewCount="5663" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife would like a 3 wheeled recumbent, but I can’t see how we can transport one with a normal car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can put my bike on a rack or the roof, but all the recumbent I have seen are too large to transport.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What solutions have people come up with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-02T01:31:56.643" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T04:45:00.333" Title="Are there any recumbent tricycles that can be transported with a normal car?" Tags="&lt;recumbent&gt;&lt;tricycle&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2010-09-01T17:21:32.583" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hang my helmet on the bottle cage. I almost always notice it's empty when I grab the helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I've stuck a sock monkey in the cage at the end of the ride. I thought I would always notice the sock monkey. But when you start out early in the morning sometimes you don't see things like that. I finally figured it out from the funny looks I was getting. So while thirsty, I still brought a smile to everyone on the route that morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T17:21:32.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="513" CreationDate="2010-09-01T17:27:16.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.azub.eu/CZ/azub-eco-trike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Azub Eco [recumbent tadpole] Trike&lt;/a&gt;. However, if you watch the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmnkAviUFBU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; of the folding, it's no Brompton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T17:27:16.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-01T17:33:35.367" Score="7" ViewCount="2239" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of cycle tracks (mostly old railway lines) in the UK that have bike rental, however very few of them have adult tricycle or recumbent tricycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have the list of where you can rent an adult tricycle in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2010-09-24T10:07:11.553" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T23:15:07.217" Title="Where (UK) can we rent an adult tricycle or recumbent tricycle" Tags="&lt;recumbent&gt;&lt;tricycle&gt;&lt;uk&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-08T09:51:15.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2010-09-01T17:40:02.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overall, you are probably going to be safer on a recumbent than a conventional upright bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, a conventional bike can be hidden by vans and buses. The key thing, in my limited experience, is to stay well out of the gutter. Refuse to be intimidated by cars behind wanting you out of the way. Make sure you are where you can be seen. For instance, if two cars facing each other are turning right (across the road in the UK), just hang back away from the curb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T17:40:02.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="691" CreationDate="2010-09-01T17:49:51.833" Score="12" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was checking some options to track my performance (kms/hr, distance, altitude, etc...), I do MTB and city biking. The first choice is a nokia based tracker (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sports-tracker.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sports-tracker.com/&lt;/a&gt;), I love nokia phones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various choices come from this question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/166/what-is-a-good-iphone-app-for-bikers&quot;&gt;What is a good iPhone app for bikers?&lt;/a&gt;) and almost all are iphone based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I'm being attracted to a GPS-only gadget. I want to upload my performance to the cloud(internet). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you guys use for track your ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="169" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T14:30:30.513" Title="What's the best way to track your performance?" Tags="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;performance-tracking&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-09-01T18:00:42.227" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend getting a Garmin and using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motionbased.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Motion Based software&lt;/a&gt; to track your rides. They track all of the metrics that you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T18:00:42.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2010-09-01T18:08:37.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have two&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; bottle cages, both with a water bottle in them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I leave the bottles on the bike; refill the night before and put back on the bike when full.  (or fill when I get the bike to work or ...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I forget to refill, I have the other water bottle (and probably half of the first).  I also use decent quality water bottles that don't make the water taste too bad if it's sat in the bottle for a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for some reason I'm leaving the water bottles inside the house, I'll put them where they block access to something I can't leave the house without, such as putting one in each shoe.  (no, really)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; 3 bottle cages, actually, but one holds a travel mug that sometimes gets a hot beverage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T16:31:23.373" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T16:31:23.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2010-09-01T18:34:23.573" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a commuter, but I believe in putting something that must not be forgotten next to something that might be forgotten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I would put my bike gloves on top of my water bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I do the same thing when I have people over to visit. If there's something in the fridge that I want them to take home, I put their car keys in the fridge on top of the container.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T18:34:23.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="502" CreationDate="2010-09-01T18:42:06.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they're not calling out the potholes, and pointing them out (literally), then you're in a racing situation, and not really a friendly group ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were in a true group ride, I'd say to keep your hands ready at the brakes at all times, and stay as close as you can stand to in order to draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are pace changes, they are more subtle at the front, and more brutal at the very back. It's a 'crack-the-whip' situation.  Staying near the front, but not &lt;em&gt;at&lt;/em&gt; the front will be the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T18:42:06.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-01T18:54:34.773" Score="4" ViewCount="1229" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I did a couple of wet rides last month, and I guess I didn't dry the pedals as well as I should have.  I have Crank Brothers Eggbeater pedals, and I noticed a bit of surface rust on them that I'd like to remove.  What are my options, considering that I can't really disassemble the pedals, and they have a large number of surfaces that are hard to get to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T22:09:14.940" Title="Removing surface rust from my Eggbeater pedals?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="525" CreationDate="2010-09-01T19:49:29.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're probably best with a metal brush the consistency of the items recommnded in the question below. Ultimately it's gonna happen though so all we can do is our best to dry up and clean up items. At some point they need replacing. A bit of light oil on the pedal the night before a wet ride might help keep of the rust by not letting water in. Of course it will attract dirt (hence the night before recommend so it dries).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/478/dealing-with-rust-on-a-steel-frame&quot;&gt;Dealing with rust on a steel frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T19:49:29.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2010-09-01T19:51:09.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd add that getting reflectors and a flashing tail light, along with some sort of front flasher, will increase visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T19:51:09.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2010-09-01T19:51:48.230" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I leave anything I don't want to forget infront of the front door such that I cannot open it without knocking the thing over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T19:51:48.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="512" CreationDate="2010-09-01T19:53:15.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is probably a recumbent trike. Of course this does bring up the transportation issue. You could look at getting a roof rack or rear platform for the car which could negate the transportation issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thought would be a tandem. If you can balance enough to keep you both up and she can manage not to fall off. Again this brings up transportation as you'd have to have a big car (truck really) to get a tandem inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really I'd look at the recumbent and roof racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-03-05T03:12:57.723" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T03:12:57.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="532" CreationDate="2010-09-01T21:32:44.510" Score="31" ViewCount="31397" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite a few years ago I tried some glueless patches for repairing my punctured tubes while out on the road, and found that they rarely stayed on for very long.  I know that technology has advanced a lot since then, and I am wondering if I should now try them again?  Do they work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T02:51:12.963" Title="Do glueless tube patches work as well as glue ones?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-09-01T21:38:59.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://sportypal.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SportyPal&lt;/a&gt; myself. Several platforms are supported (iPhone, BlackBerry, Android, etc) and there is a free version that does the necessities. It also does a good job of displaying your results online. This is a great choice if you don't want to buy a separate GPS/Bike computer, but you might find it lacking if you want the features from a dedicated device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sportypal.com/Community&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SportyPal Community Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2010-09-01T21:55:52.763" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T21:55:52.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="530" CreationDate="2010-09-01T21:51:42.647" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;They work ok - if you are just riding around town, they would probably be fine. If you are on a ride out in the middle of nowhere, I wouldn't count on these. The ones with glue work significantly better, to the point where I wouldn't buy the glue-less ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T02:46:12.053" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T02:46:12.053" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="525" CreationDate="2010-09-01T22:09:14.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about it too much, the rust will be worn away over time as you use them. For the future though, you could dry the pedals off after wet rides and periodically apply a small amount of light lubricant to the springs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T22:09:14.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="488" CreationDate="2010-09-01T23:08:19.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My only cycle trainer experience is with the one I bought, an Elite Fluid Primo.  It's a fluid trainer with a beefy stand, so less noisy than other types and the design is fairly simple.  Just a matter of clamping the trainer onto the bike's rear axle and you're ready to go.  As an apartment-dweller, I've got the whole thing setup on rubber tiles from Home Depot to reduce the amount of vibration sent to the neighbours below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your criteria:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stability is great, despite my initial skepticism.  At 225lbs I can get out of the saddle no problem although it feels odd not balancing the bike yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Folds down to about 8&quot; tall, 26&quot; x 18&quot; so not too difficult to store.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resistance is based on how fast the wheel spins:  gear up for more, down for less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As geoffc points out, riding a trainer indoors gets very hot.  I set mine up by the balcony door and only use it in the winter so that I can get plenty of cool air.  It's also pretty mind-numbing to ride, after an hour I've had enough.  I only use it in the off-season and combine it with a heart rate monitor to decide how hard to push.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-01T23:08:19.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="512" CreationDate="2010-09-02T00:20:30.710" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen quite a few older people in my city riding around on 3 wheeled bikes, similar to the ones &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.waltscycle.com/about/adult-trikes-parts-accessories-pg73.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shown here&lt;/a&gt;.  They offer quite a bit of stability, without making you low to the ground like a recumbent.  However, I can't think of how you would get one into a car.  Getting a regular bike into a car is hard enough, have you thought about a roof rack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You almost might want to look into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stabilizerwheels.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stabilizer wheels&lt;/a&gt; which can be attached to any bike, and you may be able to find some that are removable for transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T12:36:11.557" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T12:36:11.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="530" CreationDate="2010-09-02T00:32:25.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do carry them with me but I've never patched on the road -- I always carry a fresh tube instead since most of my flats happen in wet conditions.  But I've occasionally used &quot;glueless&quot; (they're actually pre-glued) patches from the comfort of home and they've turned out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T00:32:25.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-09-02T00:37:51.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used SportyPal also.  Works pretty good.  You also might want to check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MapMyRide&lt;/a&gt;.  They have a Blackberry and iPhone app to track your route.  Personally I find the only problems with using my cell phone as a GPS device is that the battery drains really fast, and also that the reception isn't that great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SportyPal and MapMyRide both support GPX imports, which can be exported from a wide range of GPS devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T00:37:51.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="554" CreationDate="2010-09-02T01:23:29.553" Score="14" ViewCount="38535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Gary Fisher mountain bike. I was changing the tube in my rear tire. The rim strip (rubber lining around the wheel to protect the tube from the spokes) had moved a bit so I went to adjust it and it broke at the hole made for the valve. I've never shopped for this part before. How do I know what size to buy? Are there different types? My tube size is 26 inches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="80" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-01T16:54:47.900" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T01:32:15.887" Title="How do I know which size and type of rim strip to buy?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="530" CreationDate="2010-09-02T01:30:43.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glueless patches are to get you home, and glued patches are for the permanent repair once you make it home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I carry a spare tube and glueless patches, and at home I have a nice glue kit. The glue kits actually bind the patch to the intertube, where the glueless stick on top over the puncture. That being said, I've had glueless patches stay on until I tossed the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T01:30:43.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="502" CreationDate="2010-09-02T01:35:55.413" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is limited to single pacelines, but here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spot with the least effort is at the back, because the slipstream at its is widest here.  If you're having trouble hanging on to the back then you may not cut it further up the group -- you'll just open up a gap and annoy everyone caught behind you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The problem in the back is that every time a rider varies their speed, it ripples back through the line and gets worse and worse.  So at the back you'll have to stay focused since the paceline may appear to speed up and slow down often.  Near the front the line will appear much smoother.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you notice a gap opening up, pedal hard to close it.  The wider it gets, the further you fall out of the slipstream and the more effort you'll need to apply.  Fall too far back (even just a few feet in a big, fast group) and you're toast unless you're a strong sprinter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep within a foot of the next rider's rear wheel, but don't get closer than you're comfortable with.  Keep more distance if they seem to surge ahead or fall back often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Never&lt;/strong&gt; overlap their wheel -- if your wheels touch, you're most likely headed down and they may never even notice what happened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't focus on the wheel ahead of you.  Scan ahead for obstacles (which others should be pointing out), turns, climbs and traffic stops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resist the urge to use your brakes -- better to swerve (safely) out of the paceline rather than brake hard and have the rest of the pack pile into you. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A good paceline rotates front riders constantly -- when you're the second rider, make a note of the paceline's speed.  When it's your turn up front, do not accelerate, maintain that same speed at a nice steady rhythm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your turn might be up after a set number of minutes or distance, depending on the group.  But if you're tiring too quickly, better to end your turn early rather than slowing the line down or being unable to take a turn later on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When your turn's up, check over your left shoulder to make sure there's no traffic coming up alongside the paceline.  An exaggerated shoulder check also lets the next rider know you're ready to switch.  When the lane's clear, peel off to the &lt;strong&gt;left&lt;/strong&gt; (might be the right in the UK?) and coast or soft pedal to let the paceline roar by.  As the last rider approaches, accelerate hard and duck into the slipstream at the back of the line (don't wait too long or you might get dropped).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pacelines can be a lot of fun.  They work best when the more experienced riders in the group take some time out to explain how things work to newer riders.  And it helps to fall in with riders at your level.  I like riding with the fast guys but once my legs start screaming I drop off the back and find a slower group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T01:35:55.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2010-09-02T02:12:04.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends more on the make/model of wheel you have I think. The 26in diameter is fairly standard (i.e. only small variation) but the width of the rim can vary depending on the type of wheel (i.e. trail, all mountain, race, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T02:12:04.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="515" CreationDate="2010-09-02T02:24:47.933" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your car doesn't have a trailer hitch on it, you can have one installed and purchase a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hitchrider.com/trike-bike.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;trike and bike&amp;quot; rack&lt;/a&gt; that mounts in the trailer hitch receiver:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hitch Rider Trike-N-Bike™ hitch mounted racks transport a trike and bike at the same time. Wheel holder and bike support arm styles are available for the bike carrier position. The rack fits both 1 1/4&amp;quot; and 2&amp;quot; vehicle receiver hitches (patented).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xaxg9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rack picture&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My inlaws ride recumbent bikes and had a hitch installed on their Toyota Camry and purchased a double-trike rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T02:24:47.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2010-09-02T02:46:02.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just use electrical tape. Been doing it for years and it's never let me down. Replacing a spoke means you have to replace the tape but I've broke 2 spokes in 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T02:46:02.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2010-09-02T02:53:45.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rubber rim strip is pretty stretchy stuff--and you want it to fit snugly! Therefore, if buying rubber the &lt;em&gt;diameter&lt;/em&gt; of your rim strip is not nearly as important as the &lt;em&gt;width&lt;/em&gt;. It should cover all the spoke nipples and/or the large holes drilled for the spokes, and fit well along the rim. That said, your local shop should have some in a size that fits 26&quot; rims best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, there are brands of rim strip which are not one continuous piece and are not rubber, but instead are similar to thick tape. It's important to note the thickness--electrical tape may work in a pinch (and after a couple layers) but it's not nearly as resilient. This type of rim strip is basically one-size-fits all and is generally considered higher quality that the rubber type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T02:53:45.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25" CreationDate="2010-09-02T03:29:48.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this question has gone a while without an answer because it's a little unclear what you want to do... do you want to do it yourself? Or by 'experience with welding' do you mean 'experience with having welded'? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, I don't have an answer for you, because I don't have direct experience welding titanium, nor do I know any welders in NJ, but I do have some tips for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with being a big guy and riding bikes--trust me, I know many people who do it. However, it's important to realize here that most of the higher-end bikes you've ridden haven't been designed with you in mind at all. They're designed for the cyclist who weighs twice as many pounds as he is inches tall, because that's where the market is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And sure, titanium is technically a stronger metal than steel, but yet again, even your titanium bike is designed for the same person your steel bikes have been designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my suggestion: Before you spend another $100 with a welder, think about this: for the approximate price of an average new titanium frame, you could have a custom frame made from steel, but with you and your size in mind: oversized tubing, reinforced lugs, maybe even a double top-tube*. The bike would be specifically designed for you (it's been done before) and would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; fail like your previous experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's lots of framebuilders in Philadelphia and New York--it can't hurt to ask around. Hope that helps!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* An aside: I actually think they look pretty cool. I'm a really tall guy, and I'm looking forward to the day when I can buy a custom-made bike that actually needs one. =]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dXh6c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oldbike.wordpress.com/1930s-bsa-double-top-tube-roadster/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2011-05-14T19:27:57.803" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T19:27:57.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="101" CreationDate="2010-09-02T03:59:19.133" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the investment casting of the entire headtube is something particular to BMX bikes. It makes sense, for reasons outlined below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical parts of a bicycle which can be investment-cast are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Head lugs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dropouts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seat clusters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom bracket shells&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seat-stay and chain-stay bridges&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fork crowns&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to see why investment casting is preferable is to compare it to the alternative ways the same items can be made: (modified from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sevencyclescollaborative.com/?p=305&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Investment Casting&lt;/strong&gt;: This is the most common method of making high quality lugs.  This is the oldest form of metal forming on the planet. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stamped &amp;amp; Rolled&lt;/strong&gt;: This is the lease expensive way to make lugs in large quantities, as they can be stamped from a flat sheet, and formed into the required shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bulge Forming&lt;/strong&gt;: Relatively rare, this involves placing a steel tube into a shaped mold and using hydrostatic pressure to expand and shape the tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Welding/Brazing Tubes Together &amp;amp; Filing&lt;/strong&gt;:  This is also a common method, but intricate and time consuming.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Machined/CNC'd&lt;/strong&gt;: Possible but not really used. Wastes a lot of material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two biggest problems with all the alternative methods are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are formed into a different shape from a cold, pre-formed piece of metal (Stamped, Bulge, Machined/CNC'd), thereby reducing strength, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have some weak spot (Rolled, Welding/Brazing), thereby reducing strength.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In investment casting, the steel is allowed to settle into its final shape while it's hot and allowed to slowly cool. This means that in it's final form, the metal is under absolutely zero stress trying to maintain it's shape. Furthermore, it ensures very even distribution (for example, rolled steel may be thin on the convex side and thick on the concave side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T03:59:19.133" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-09-02T05:25:54.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind wearing something on your wrist, the Garmin Forerunners are great.  You can keep all of your workouts online at &lt;a href=&quot;http://connect.garmin.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Garmin Connect&lt;/a&gt;.  They are a little pricy. There are a few models and can run you anywhere from $150 - $400. I actually have the one pictured &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory/586#586&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I use it for running and it's the cheapest model (also the oldest).  I have to admit that this is really big on my wrist. If you could afford it, get one of the newer/trimmer models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interface is pretty nice. If you're a programmer, you can even use their API to create your own apps to chart and track your performance!  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T23:07:33.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-09-02T07:47:50.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try Runkeeper for iPhone and Android. &lt;a href=&quot;http://runkeeper.com/&quot;&gt;http://runkeeper.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="179" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T07:47:50.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="518" CreationDate="2010-09-02T07:48:36.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where abouts in the UK are you?  You might want to check out the following places:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;London Recumbants - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.londonrecumbents.co.uk/bikes_we_hire.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.londonrecumbents.co.uk/bikes_we_hire.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DTek - don't have a web site but can be emailed on dtekhpvs@btopenworld.com&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FutureCycles - futurecycles.co.uk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you get sorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="152" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T23:15:07.217" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T23:15:07.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2010-09-02T08:13:38.430" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of types of rim tape available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cloth&lt;/strong&gt; - This has a glue backing and is very long lasting.  If you need to replace a spoke nipple, depending on the age of the tape, you will most probably have to also replace the tape since it will no longer stick to the rim.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rubber&lt;/strong&gt; - This is continuous loop of rubber (stretchy) and the stretch is what holds the tape in place.  As it ages there is a tendency for the area around the valve stem hole to break.  The rubber can also perish or become brittle with age.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plastic&lt;/strong&gt; - This is a slightly stretchy plastic in a continuous loop that can be slipped over the outer rim.  I found that the tapes have issues as they age with cracking, particularly when you are using high pressure tyres.  You can get little splits in the tape just above the holes of the rim. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal favourite is the cloth tape, over time they have been the most dependable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very important to get the right width of rim tape.  If the tape is too narrow you can get the tube being pinched into the rim hole, or cut by the hole.  If the tape is too wide then you can get the tyre being lifted of the rim when at high pressure (not instantaneous and leads to a huge bang).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you can get both the cloth and rubber tapes in various widths for the various wheel sizes, so shop around to get the right one for your wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T13:43:38.573" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T13:43:38.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="556" CreationDate="2010-09-02T08:36:35.550" Score="8" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any special types out there or are they pretty much all the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T13:39:21.850" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T14:25:16.390" Title="What considerations are important when purchasing a new chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2010-09-02T10:00:50.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two most common sizes are 3/32&quot; and 1/8&quot;  Generally you would use 3/32&quot; for bicycles which have dérailleur gears (road/mountain bikes).  As for length I believe they are all a stock length and you'll be very unlucky if you find it is too short.  You will need to specify how many speeds your freewheel or cassette is (6/7/8/9/10 speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will obviously find lots of variety in quality/weight/material/price etc when you know which type of chain to look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="152" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T13:38:28.033" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T13:38:28.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="468" CreationDate="2010-09-02T11:47:41.333" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative to long tail bicycles is long wheelbase bicycles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpSTl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastEditorUserId="183" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T09:38:54.647" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T09:38:54.647" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="563" CreationDate="2010-09-02T12:24:18.030" Score="8" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it says in the title, where can I ride legally ride my mountain bike off road in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-27T13:13:52.437" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T16:16:19.547" Title="Where Can I Legally Ride Off Road in the UK?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2010-09-02T13:51:05.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cannock Chase have some good (handbuilt) trails - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chasetrails.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chasetrails.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T13:51:05.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-09-02T13:53:07.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://runkeeper.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RunKeeper&lt;/a&gt; app for my phone (available for both iPhone &amp;amp; Android devices). It's really good and their site is pretty neat too. It does full GPS tracking (for free) and you can manually create routes and enter activities (despite the name it isn't just for running, in fact I even use it for open water swimming).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T13:53:07.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:12:30.450" Score="9" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen it advertised but never used it, what's it for? Is it effective ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T14:21:32.943" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T14:28:47.753" Title="What is the purpose of chamois cream?" Tags="&lt;chamois&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:12:52.403" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In England, Wales and NI You can legally ride in lots of places:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On any bridleway&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On any Byway open to all traffic (BOAT)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Restricted Byways (Used to be called RUPPs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Permisive Bridleways&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dedicated MTB trial centres (of which there are now lots)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first three categories of path can be found on your OS map, although the definitive maps are held by local area councils and the OS map can (very rarely) be wrong. Permissive Bridleways are open to bikes but are not often marked on maps, they are there with the permission of the land owner and aren't a statutory right of way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Scotland the rules are differnt and much more liberal - if there is a trail then you can probably ride it.  There is a good overview &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scotways.com/index.php&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; as to the position in Scotland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good way to find your local routes is via your local cycling club if they have an off road section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastEditorUserId="181" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T14:43:03.517" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T14:43:03.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="565" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:14:06.583" Score="57" ViewCount="13953" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that bikes aren't required to have a speed indicator, can you be arrested or ticketed for breaking the speed limit on a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-07-21T01:52:32.607" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T11:28:46.393" Title="Can you be ticketed for breaking the speed limit on a bike?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="14" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:21:32.820" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it depends upon the jurisdiction. In the UK you are not assumed to know the speed you are doing (even if you have a speedometer) and so cannot be convicted of speeding. However, you may be committing other offences. In England and Wales, a &quot;person who rides or drives furiously any horse or carriage, or drives furiously any cattle&quot; is committing an offence under the 1847 Town Police Clauses Act. Infamously, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.camcycle.org.uk/newsletters/14/article14.html&quot;&gt;a cyclist&lt;/a&gt; was convicted of this in 1997 (for going 25 mph in what was technically though unrealistically a 30 mph area). As far as I am aware, that case is unique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2013-07-20T10:46:09.350" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T10:46:09.350" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:22:07.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Running Ahead&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.runningahead.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.runningahead.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Free&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can track your running, cycling and other workouts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No advertisement at all. Very clean interface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can customize your home page and reports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many charts and reports on your workout data&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supports the import of GPS data directly from the GPS. (Depends on the model that you've got)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supports the import of data by file (e.g. from GPS file or from mapmyride.com export file)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n788P.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Google map views of your runs/rides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S22VX.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="131" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T15:29:56.083" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T15:29:56.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="555" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:25:16.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last major change in chains happened around 1990, when Shimano changed to their HyperGlide technology. The goal of HyperGlide was to offer more sprockets but retain the same overall axle width for the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, anything with 8 or more gears in the rear cluster has used the narrower chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been recent developments around asymmetric chains, where the plates on one side of the chain are different from the other side (which makes it possible to install a chain &quot;backwards&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most vanilla applications, there isn't a gigantic difference between the narrow Bell chain at WalMart and the SRAM chain at your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T14:25:16.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="562" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:28:47.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chamois cream is useful if one is getting chafing from rubbing inside a pair of shorts. I've found it useful in high humidity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T14:28:47.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:31:47.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use dailymile.com to &lt;a href=&quot;http://dailymile.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;track my running and biking&lt;/a&gt;. If you have a Garmin you can sync it to your dailymile profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T18:55:12.697" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T18:55:12.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:52:46.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Hose Clamp&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A.K.A. Jubilee Clip&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ratcheting clamp often used to attach items to a bicycle fork or handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WgvD4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flashlight attached to flat handlebars with a series of hose clamps.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/1013386555/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flashlight attached to handlebars with a series of hose clamps.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jubilee_Clip&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jubilee Clip&lt;/a&gt; on Wikipedia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T14:52:46.143" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T14:52:46.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:52:58.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very unusual, but I do know cyclists who've been ticketed for speeding (in Canada).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T14:52:58.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:58:59.433" Score="35" ViewCount="10809" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the most useful accessory you got for your bike? By useful, I mean something that improved the enjoyment or functionality of using your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt; - I know this is a subjective question, but I ask it to generate a reference list of most useful accessories, as opposed to identify 'the best'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One accessory per answer, plus a little explanation of why it would be useful. I've put my top two in by way of example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: This page is meant to list accessories you've found useful, not to record basic cycling concepts (as per &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/80/glossary-threads&quot;&gt;this thread in meta&lt;/a&gt;). If you would like to write an entry about a basic cycling tool, component, or concept, please use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index&quot;&gt;terminology index&lt;/a&gt; for that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T06:42:17.967" Title="What's your most useful cycle accessory?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;glossary&gt;&lt;reference&gt;" AnswerCount="29" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="30" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T14:58:59.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:00:44.593" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Panniers&lt;/strong&gt; - I originally bought these to go on my first ever touring trip a few years back, but found they made huge difference for day-to-day commuting and increased the amount of biking I did. No longer did I have to balance groceries on handle bars, or arrive at the office with sweaty back from carrying a laptop in a backpack.  Get one's you can clip on/off (I'm sure most do) and if there is any chance you will get caught in rain, its worth paying extra for waterproof panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many types of panniers, here's a few:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpFW0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ortlieb Back Roller Classic Panniers&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oDeKu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;grocery pannier&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aQxL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;basic pannier on bike&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8M61B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rivendell panniers on bike&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9E0E2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;velo orange ostrich panniers on bike&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2010-09-06T15:18:50.453" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T15:18:50.453" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T15:00:44.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="491" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:03:22.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems like an example of 'if it's broke, don't fix it'... I understand how it might be bothersome or annoying, but modern shifters such as these are relatively complex and can be easily 'messed-up'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the best solution I could find is the manufacturer's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/en/service/sram/view.php?catID=1&amp;amp;subcatID=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;maintenance manuals&lt;/a&gt;, which is somewhat lacking. Unfortunately I don't think there are many people who've worked on this specific shifter that can answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T15:03:22.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:04:00.567" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kickstand&lt;/strong&gt; - simple but very useful. I used to have one when I was young but it was rubbish (bike never stayed upright) and it put me off them until recently. The one I have now is great, works with fully loaded panniers, and it means I don't need to find a wall to lean the bike against. Especially useful when doing small maintenance tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/frBLF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Basic Greenfield kickstand&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sWmp7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear Greenfield kickstand&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zNity.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slightly fancier &amp;quot;swiss&amp;quot; kickstand that Rivendell sells&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RRZ15.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Double-legged kickstand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-03T16:36:15.017" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T16:36:15.017" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T15:04:00.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:08:03.487" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dynamo hub&lt;/strong&gt; - Works under rain and no worries about discharged batteries. Plus, the front light has a night detector and the rear light has a capacitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5ZWY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano Dynamo Front Hub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2010-09-05T18:43:42.517" LastActivityDate="2010-09-05T18:43:42.517" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T15:08:03.487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:09:49.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bar-End Shifters/Gear Levers&lt;/strong&gt; - One of the best investments I've made. Especially useful because of easy conversion from down-tube shifters, which I believe are one of the worst trends in recent cycle history. I'll never use anything else!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjATK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;barcon img from Rivendell&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-04T03:29:14.227" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T03:29:14.227" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T15:09:49.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:16:29.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a 15mph speed limit imposed on at least one major trail in the Seattle area - maybe more.  However I do know people have been cited for speeding on the trail.  I believe the speed limit is in place because there are many pedestrians on this trail as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I grew up in a town notorious for the bike patrol (not real cops on bikes to get to real calls faster - they were like meter maids on bikes to police the bike riders in my home town!) but the one ticket I knew they didn't write was a speeding ticket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think the constabulary might be a tad cross if you're descending down a big hill and pass them doing 50+mph though... :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T15:16:29.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:21:45.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, french law doesn't mention that speed limits are applicable only to vehicles with a speed indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T15:21:45.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:25:43.840" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CamelBak&lt;/strong&gt; (or any other backpack with a water bladder in it) - I drink a lot of water, and after missing the bottle cage a few times and running over bottles, I decided I was too clumsy to keep trying to drink from a bottle and ride at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On hot days, fill the bag most of the way with ice cubes before filling it up with water. The ice will melt plenty quick enough to keep you from running out of liquid in there, and there's nothing worse than slurping piping hot water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGtAI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2010-09-17T09:26:02.357" LastActivityDate="2010-09-17T09:26:02.357" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T15:25:43.840" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:30:27.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Topeak Rack and Trunk Bag&lt;/strong&gt; - The brand isn't important, but for me, the compatibility of the two is: the bag slides neatly onto the rack and clicks securely in place. It makes it easy to grab the bag on the way out the door and attach it quickly to the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is most useful for bike commuters or others using their bike primarily for transportation. It offers more space than a saddle bag for tools and a first aid kit, or for picking up small items on errands. It's a handy bag to have on hand for longer rides around town, and having a rack that it slides right into makes it more likely that you'll bother to take it along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="7" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T17:59:06.217" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T17:59:06.217" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T15:30:27.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:44:16.637" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/205/what-is-a-good-small-bicycle-bag-to-store-your-gear-and-or-personal-things/231#231&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saddle Bag&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; - It looks quite small, but there's enough space to fit everything that I used to put in my backpack in longer rides: spare inner tube boxes, cell phone, keys, money, train travel card, tire levers and small toolset. It's so much better to ride without a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LM8d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger saddle bags are also available, sometimes mounting on rails attached to the saddle. These can be large enough for a change of clothing or sometimes even larger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T01:45:20.693" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T15:44:16.637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:50:11.577" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Click-Stand&lt;/strong&gt; -The Click-Stand is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory/576#576&quot;&gt;kickstand&lt;/a&gt; substitute, essentially a modified tent pole with a hook on the end. It's custom sized by the manufacturer so it'll fit with your bike. It's particularly well-suited to loaded touring bikes, and is much more stable than traditional kickstands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a minute to deploy, so it's not appropriate for racers or commuters, but it's great for anyone who's okay with taking a few seconds here and there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After using it on tour for well over a year, I can confirm it to be more stable than most kickstands I've used, and doesn't put stress on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chainstays&lt;/a&gt; (where most kickstands are attached). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It comes with two brake bands, used to hold the bike's brakes closed, so it doesn't roll away while the Click-Stand is deployed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j9Gp7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loaded touring bike in Philadelphia 30th Street Station, held up with a Click-Stand. (The Click-Stand is the device under the saddle, extending down to the floor.) &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2566037303/in/photostream/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image credit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xEuDc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Click-Stand and brake bands, stowed in the holder next to my water bottle cage. &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/3759454469/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image credit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://click-stand.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click-Stand manufacturer's page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: The Greenfield Stabilizer is a kickstand that attaches to the rear of the chainstays, next to the rear fork, and is a popular alternative to the Click-Stand for loaded touring bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T19:01:16.040" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T15:50:11.577" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:52:40.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Altimeter&lt;/strong&gt; - Want to know if you're struggling because you're tired or climbing a false flat?  How many meters/feet left until the top of the mountain pass?  How steep was that last hill that nearly killed you?  Are you climbing in too high or too low a gear?  All these questions answered and more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T15:52:40.427" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T15:52:40.427" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T16:01:10.337" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Garmin Forerunner&lt;/strong&gt; - it's a GPS watch and not the typical cycling GPS that you put on the handlebar. But I love it because I also do running and it's convenient to have all workouts tracked by the same device (to upload everything at once). You can easily toggle between the cycling and running modes. That's important because you typically measure your running pace in minutes/km (or minutes/mile), while for the cycling speed you in general prefer km/h (or mph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZMDCd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="131" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T16:15:07.663" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T16:15:07.663" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T16:01:10.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T16:38:06.697" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fenders/Mudguards&lt;/strong&gt; - front and back.  I ride all through winter and these help keep me dry. There's usually only one or two dozen times a year that I'm really riding in the rain for my morning or afternoon commute, but there's a good 3 or 4 months where rain comes through often enough that I'm riding through a lot of puddles.The rear fender prevents the classic skunk stripe, while the front fender primarily prevents splashing onto my feet and ankles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These also help keep your bike clean and should help increase the lifetime of your chain/gears (or at least give you an extra few days before it's time to clean and lubricate everything when riding in winter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't remember the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; model, but they're basically &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecom1.planetbike.com/7006.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these fenders from Planet Bike that include a mud flap&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ly6Le.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;planet bike fenders&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T20:32:09.917" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T20:32:09.917" CommentCount="11" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T16:38:06.697" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-09-02T16:43:54.970" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;3M makes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/safety/personal_safety/node_GSQTVVFQH6be/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_SZN6R561X6ge/gvel_0LND79F0LPgl/theme_us_personalsafety_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html&quot;&gt;Scotchlite&lt;/a&gt; tape that is very reflective. My wife used craft punches to punch flower shapes out of it and covered her bike with it. Her bike gets noticed day and night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't noticed any mention of flags here. Particularly on trailers or recumbents, a flag gives you a bit more height, plus the motion attracts attention. My wife hung a bunch of streamers off her flag pole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="201" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T16:43:54.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T16:46:33.200" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Travel mug&lt;/strong&gt; - Specifically, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gocontigo.com/autoseal-stainless-steel-travel-mug.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AUTOSEAL® West Loop Stainless Steel Travel Mug (Vacuum Insulated)&lt;/a&gt;. It fits easily in either water bottle cage (they're nylon so less likely to scratch it). It keeps hot things hot for at least a couple hours.  It seals thoroughly enough that you can turn it upside down and shake it and not a drop escapes, so no worries about spilling coffee on my legs from going over bumps. And the unsealing mechanism is a button that's easy to press, allowing for no-hassle one-handed operation.  Can even manage to drink with rough ground, since I can press the unseal button after getting the coffee &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MaiCs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have an insulated coffee thermos device with something more like a normal water bottle top, and if the coffee was a little too hot it was easy to burn myself.  Since this one has an opening somewhat more like a cup, it's much easier to take small sips.  That used to be my favorite bicycle accessory ever, but now the Contigo is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's just nothing that beats a nice hot coffee on a chilly morning commute.  Or maybe a hot chocolate if I'm out a bit late and it's chilly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecoffeesystems.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicycle Coffee Systems&lt;/a&gt; website is a good resource for finding other coffee mugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fit question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a fairly typical metal cage a lot like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/735868&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this cage&lt;/a&gt; it fits &quot;normal&quot;. Most of the bulge of the cup fits under the clamping mechanism at the top of the cage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.profile-design.com/profile-design/products/hydration/column-two&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;profile designs nylon cage&lt;/a&gt; that grips a bottle all around, it fits tighter than a standard water bottle, but still works fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cage I'm most often using with it is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Bottle-Cages/ModulaCageEX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adjustable cage&lt;/a&gt; (I think I have the previous model of that one) that I originally got for a larger coffee bottle.  The setting I have it at works for this mug or for a standard water bottle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-11-26T20:03:46.013" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T20:03:46.013" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T16:46:33.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2010-09-02T16:46:58.207" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You certainly can in Calgary (Canada) where our pathway speed limit is mostly 20 km/h, and goes down to 10 km/h in places. Police (who are on bikes themselves) have speed traps setup on bike paths frequently in the summer -- and these are often strategically placed at the bottom of large hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="206" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T16:46:58.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2010-09-02T16:53:08.007" Score="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US, ignorance of the law, statute or conditions is generally not an allowable defense for violating the law.  If the speedometer in your car is broken, you can certainly still get a speeding ticket.  In almost all US jurisdictions bicycles are vehicles and subject to all the same laws as cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the long answer; the short answer is YES. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T16:53:08.007" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="597" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:12:07.657" Score="70" ViewCount="7962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve fallen a couple times, but no serious damage is visible on the helmet except for a couple divots here and there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I consistently be replacing my helmet after a certain amount of time?  After every relatively serious fall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="218" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T17:26:03.797" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T16:25:52.727" Title="When or how often should I replace my bike helmet?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:13:29.403" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cycle Computer&lt;/strong&gt; I'd say a cylco-computer is my best accessory. I have the Sigma 1606 with cadence addon. It allows me to guage a bunch of things, speed most obviously, but tracking my cadence, average mph, and distance have really helped me grow as a casual rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="219" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T18:19:59.450" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T18:19:59.450" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T17:13:29.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="592" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:18:18.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there's visible damage to your helmet, like a crack, then you should definitely replace it. Dents, maybe, it depends how bad they are. Better safe than sorry right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="219" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T17:18:18.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="592" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:19:34.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspect the helmet for damage inside and out. If you see any cracks, then it's time to replace it. If not, you're fine. You don't want to risk your cranium when you could just buy another helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="223" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T17:19:34.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="592" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:25:40.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle helmets are designed to absorb impact by cracking or crumbling. The insides of the helmet may crack with no damage visible on the outside. I'd replace the helmet as soon as you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T17:25:40.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="592" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:30:12.487" Score="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Helmets should be replaced roughly every 5 years and after any crash where your head makes contact with the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Helmets will crumble, compress or otherwise deform in sometimes hard to see ways when you hit the deck. The structural integrity of the thing will be massively diminished after even a relatively tame fall. This is one area where you don't want to mess around much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="47" LastEditDate="2011-09-06T16:25:52.727" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T16:25:52.727" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:31:07.387" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting a high safety flag is common on recumbents (and trailers), at least in the US. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFSNm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/the_h/3883569843/in/photostream/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Photo credit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T17:36:48.893" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T17:36:48.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:40:00.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a really high and visible safety flag. Remember that as a recumbent rider you'll quickly grow a large stomach and beard to cushion you from car impacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="217" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T17:40:00.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="592" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:43:46.663" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rule is every 3-4 years or after a crash. Some people say that excessive sweat or UV exposure can also degrade your helmet, but no one has proven that so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="217" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T17:43:46.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="491" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:47:40.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your derailleur cable is probably stretched. It happens normally on newer bikes. Take it to your local bike shop and it'll just take them a minute to fix it. They'll probably even do it for free to get your future business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="217" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T17:47:40.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="629" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:47:55.970" Score="7" ViewCount="1830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up a powertap and have done a fair bit of riding around and a few races now with it on, so I've started to get familiar with some of the numbers. I would like to figure out what my functional threshold power (FTP) is and would like to know which methods are more accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a 40km time trial is sort of the gold standard, but I find these so mentally tough that it's nearly impossible for me to give an honest effort outside of a race situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing is going to be easy, I imagine as any interpolated ways of doing this will probably require maximum effort for a certain amount of time, but I'm hoping there is a reasonably accurate method that is easier mentally and physically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T17:49:00.427" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T00:20:27.543" Title="What are the 'easiest' ways to determine functional threshold power?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="604" CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:58:23.553" Score="32" ViewCount="47505" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I feel I will faint when I am cycling in the morning. I usually don't have this problem after lunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My breakfast is rich in carbohydrates, but maybe I'm eating too much or missing some nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-25T15:59:55.920" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T23:51:38.947" Title="What is the best breakfast right before cycling?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-09-02T18:05:53.607" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Entirely depends on the lenght of ride. If you're riding for less than 2 hours then your body already has everything on board that it needs. If you're working for more than 2 hours you should eat complex carbs (pasta, oatmeal) 2 hours before the ride so that they have time to digest before you actually need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also eating too much just before can limit your performance as your body also has to work to digest a load of food in your stomach. Adding links to answer the comment below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/exercise/HQ00594_D&quot;&gt;Eating and exercise: 5 tips to maximize your workouts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/sportsnutrition/a/EatForExercise.htm&quot;&gt;What to Eat Before Exercise&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.runtheplanet.com/trainingracing/nutrition/enduranceeating.asp&quot;&gt;Eating for Endurance Running&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eat a small bowl of Cheerios with some fruit thrown in for flavour. I ride most morning at about 5:30am. If I'm working hard (either 2 plus hours or 2 hours really hard workout) I'll carry some Gatorade diluted 50/50 (I find it's easier on my stomach).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I ride 100k+ or century length I make sure I get up and eat 3 hours before the ride. Then drink 50/50 Gatorade till the ride. During the ride I drink both 50/50 mix and water. I also start refueling with food after about 30 minutes. Small bites of energy bars, bananas, whatever your stomach can handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of conditions do you ride in? Is it really hot? Are you drinking enough fluids? If you lose more than 2 pounds on a ride you're not drinking enough. What is your exertion level? Are you going too hard for too long for your fitness level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone below also mentioned protein. Many of the 'higher end' sports drinks also come in a protein variety. The reading I've done at the very least suggests that you eat protein and carbs within 30 -45 minutes after a ride to maximize the recovery/refueling of your muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-04-26T11:09:18.427" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T11:09:18.427" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2010-09-02T18:07:13.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might interest a friend of similar skill in a 40km time trial? You could both work on beating the other which might help you with the mental toughness outside of a race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T18:07:13.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-09-02T18:10:51.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be missing out on protein. Eggs, meat, or tofu will fill this need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T18:10:51.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-09-02T18:18:17.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am diabetic, so for me the best thing is I start drinking water - a lot actually and eating a few bananas before I ride.  I don't touch gatorade... it is just sugar water to me...  so I drink water and will eat a banana or peanut butter crackers during the ride if I get hungry.  I normally get hungary after I stop exercising and I finish off my morning training with a high protein powder shake with skim milk.  It helps me get protein in for long term energy without spiking up my blood glucose levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I found my morning weakness came from a lack of fluids more than food.  One thing to take in mind is if your urine is really dark at any point in the day you are getting dehydrated and need to update your fluid intake.  Dark urine first thing in the morning is normal, but it should only be very light yellow the rest of the day if you are properly hydrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, up your fluids and see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T18:18:17.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="515" CreationDate="2010-09-02T18:27:42.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greenspeed.com.au/gt3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Greenspeed GT3&lt;/a&gt; (Australia), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hpvelotechnik.com/produkte/scorpionfx/index_e.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HP Velotechnik Scorpion FX&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icetrikes.co/explore-our-trikes/adventure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ICE&lt;/a&gt;(UK) make folding tadpole recumbent trikes, which can fit in the back of a reasonably sized car. &lt;a href=&quot;http://trisled.com.au/hpv/gizmo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TriSled (Australia)&lt;/a&gt; make one with a break in the frame that serves the same purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T02:15:40.937" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T02:15:40.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2010-09-02T18:47:46.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. I was ticketed in California for speeding AND running a red light (two different violations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="231" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T18:47:46.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2010-09-02T18:56:30.667" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most United States jurisdictions, a bicycle is for all intents and purposes a vehicle. The driver of a bicycle can be cited for exceeding the speed limit, running red lights and stop signs, failure to yield, unsafe driving, DUI, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, you won't be &lt;em&gt;arrested&lt;/em&gt; for a &quot;normal&quot; traffic infraction, but once you are stopped (in a car, on a motorcycle, or on a bicycle) by an officer, you can be arrested for outstanding warrants, failure to obey, intoxication, weapon possession, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="193" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T18:56:30.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="614" CreationDate="2010-09-02T19:09:34.923" Score="17" ViewCount="6742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an occasional biker. I bought a mountain bike (nothing fancy) with the idea that I might use it off-road or on mountain trails (of which there are many here in Calgary). However, since I've bought it I've done nothing but bike in the city on streets and paved bike trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything worth doing to my bike to convert it to something more suited to urban biking? In particular, the tires have me wondering; they have large rubber off-roading lugs that surely aren't doing me any favors on pavement. I'm not looking to spend a tons of money on a retrofit, but will do so if its worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T18:38:52.600" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T07:01:13.267" Title="Mountain Bike on Paved Roads" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="615" CreationDate="2010-09-02T19:09:56.703" Score="3" ViewCount="1287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Queens, NYC. I am thinking of buying a bike for casual ride probably during weekends and sometime for commuting to the city. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend which and what type of bike should I buy with budget of around $500?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T19:47:21.377" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T21:48:49.373" Title="purchasing a bike" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-09-02T19:10:00.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have flashers front and rear going any time that I'm near dusk.  Once the sun is completely down, I make sure to have my helmet light as well, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.niterider.com/prod_minmini150usb.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NitRider MiNewt&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.niterider.com/prod_minmini150usb.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dcbea.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;NiteRider MiNewt Mini USB&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The little thing is super bright, enough to light the road for 30 meters ahead, has enough battery power for a few hours, and it charges from a mini USB cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T14:54:29.303" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T14:54:29.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2010-09-02T19:11:39.847" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a set of slicks or semi-slick tires that will reduce your rolling resistance. If you're using it to commute lots as well then fenders are awesome to keep the rain off. I have a snap on rear fender that goes on any bike I'm riding if it's raining (outside of races). I hate having a wet butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T19:11:39.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="612" CreationDate="2010-09-02T19:40:24.290" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hybrid bikes are good for urban riding, they will often come with fatter tires that will provide a better ride on rough pavement. These tires also don't easily slide into grooves like street car tracks, storm sewer grates, etc, which can cause falls. You'll also have the flexibility to take shortcuts through parks etc if you want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have a look through your local classifieds first. Look for a bike in your price range that is in good repair. It should be reasonably free of rust, excessive grease buildup and the wheels should spin without much (or no) 'wobble'. While not a comprehensive list, things like this tend to show whether the bike has been well cared for or not. Remember to beware, riding a bike in poor repair is torture compared to a bike that has shifting that works (unless single speed) and does not fill your ears with squeaking, grinding or rubbing sounds ;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find a suitable used bike, I'd recommend buying a lower-end name brand bike from a dedicated bike shop. This will fit your budget, and you will often receive free maintenance on your bike for a certain period on things like shifting adjustments, wheel truing, etc. Beware of bargain basement bikes from big box stores, even the more expensive ones from these stores can begin break immediately as the components are of low quality and the bikes may not be assembled correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2010-09-02T19:47:18.953" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T19:47:18.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="637" CreationDate="2010-09-02T20:17:00.320" Score="7" ViewCount="8024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a new bicycle pump with a pressure gauge and after checking my tyres, inflated them to the top end of interval printed on the tyres (4.5-6.5 bar). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering when the tyres should be in the lower range of the interval, and when the higher end is appropriate. Is it a question of weight? Type of terrain I'm going to ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tyres in question are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/kojak&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Kojaks&lt;/a&gt;, mounted on a light urban hybrid bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="85" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T15:20:04.960" Title="How much should I inflate my tires?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="616" CreationDate="2010-09-02T20:25:44.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I am a large rider and I was advised (and seen) that I need to keep my tires to the max before each ride.  If I do a long ride - over 2 hours - I have to make sure to check and inflate accordingly.  I ride 700cc road tires and with my weight a tire that starts to slack gets a &quot;pinch flat&quot;.  Basically the tube pinches inside the tire.  If you are a very light rider, you can get away with a little less.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding a bike with &quot;knobbie&quot; tires like a mountain bike, you can get away with less too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T20:25:44.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2010-09-02T20:36:56.747" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the same situation and I was &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; happier after I picked up some more appropriate tires.  I went with a set of Serfas Drifters, which actually have an inverted tread so that you don't have to worry about going off road if you want.  I even use them quite a bit for light trail riding.  As long as you can avoid mud, loose uphills, etc you are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was like night and day after switching to thinner and less knobby tires.  And it isn't just the nobs, you want a thinner tire also for even less rolling resistance.  I went with a 1.5&quot; width.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure you pick up some tubes that are the right size for the tire!  The first time I tried mounting these, I used my MTB tubes and I swear I broke a tire iron trying to get it on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T20:36:56.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-09-02T20:46:07.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're considering an Android phone at all, google put out a MyTracks app that does what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T20:46:07.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:07:47.237" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclaire.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cyclaire pump&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; It's a compact pump (comes with a small bag to attach to your top tube), and really, really fast. Changing a tube at the side of the road is bad enough without having spending ages minutes inflating it again (and tiring your arms). Now I never have to. It's not as good as a track pump, but I wouldn't want to be carrying one of those with me all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few times when I've seen another cyclist trying to inflate their tire with a hand pump, I've stopped to let them borrow mine. Each time they've been really impressed and said they're going to order one when they get home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yPGzY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2010-09-05T18:51:41.907" LastActivityDate="2010-09-05T18:51:41.907" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-02T21:07:47.237" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:09:12.627" Score="59" ViewCount="10775" Body="&lt;p&gt;This wouldn't apply to riding technical trails or anything challenging, but are there any reasons to eschew the tunes while riding?  Noise canceling earbuds would probably be hazardous to myself and others, but provided I can hear what's going on around me, is there any reason not to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit - it almost seems wrong to edit and make some of the answers sound off, but FWIW, I was asking in reference to riding places without cars.  Parks and such. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="244" LastEditorUserId="244" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T19:07:02.867" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T15:17:14.667" Title="Is listening to music dangerous while cycling?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" AnswerCount="21" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="4" ClosedDate="2012-11-01T16:42:00.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:17:14.770" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be lying if I said I didn't listen to music while cycling ... especially at night (probably the worst time). That said ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't really recommend it. Alot of the subtle drive train noises that could signify impending doom (for your bicycle) can be missed (ex. stick in derailleur, tyre deflating after running through a patch of glass...) when listening to music. &#xA;The obvious would be not hearing approaching traffic and therefore being surprised and perhaps swerving/not holding your line etc... &#xA;As well you miss the little things that can occur that make cycling so special. &#xA;And I could go on ... but I won't. Haha. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I'm a hypocrite I guess but if i was to recommend either way I would say keep the music for off the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T21:17:14.770" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:17:22.320" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason that I can think of is avoiding collisions with other riders, cars, pedestrians, etc. If someone tries to get your attention, it's still going to be harder to hear them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say that if you want to listen to music, use only one earbud and keep the volume down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T21:17:22.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:18:44.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I listen with only one iPod earbud for commuting, as California state law says you can. I think its no different than a car stereo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for different headsets, I think that the jogging type (that wrap around your ear) would be good. I wouldn't go with the squishy plastic in-ear kinds, because they seem to block out too much outside sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="251" LastEditorUserId="10722" LastEditDate="2014-03-28T15:17:14.667" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T15:17:14.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:25:48.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nourishingmeals.com/2009/03/teff-banana-pancakes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Teff pancakes&lt;/a&gt; ... I sub applesauce for the banana portion. Often top the pancakes w/ mixed fruit and agave nectar and have a green smoothie to go with it. This is my long ride meal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically eat 'normal' foods on my ride. Alternate between dates/muffins/cookies and sandwiches while I ride. All depends on intensity and duration of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest change I've made is that I almost always eat Teff prior to, during and after any form of exercise. I'd recommend it to anyone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uh, I tried to link to what Teff is but my rep ain't good enough. So you can go google it yourselves. Haha&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T21:25:48.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:34:45.030" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting that deaf people cycle perfectly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Joe's excellent comment merit's adding into the answer...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; It should also be noted that deaf people are used to being deaf. They never rely on sounds like hearing-abled people do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its OK to listen to music as long as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) you are aware that you don't have any audio clues to hazards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b) don't put yourself in a situation where you rely on audio clues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;c) you compensate with very alert visual monitoring of your environment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I don't listen to music while cycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2010-09-07T07:32:51.240" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T07:32:51.240" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:41:18.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, get 'Training and Racing w/ a Power Meter' by Hunter Allen and Andrew Coggan. So incredibly helpful in learning about your device. &#xA;Second, use WKO+ for analysis. I have been using it for 4 years and it is fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reference to you question, I typically use the 20 min time trial as a good way of setting my training zones. &#xA;After a solid warm up (typically with a 5 min LT---&gt;V02 effort) and then proper rest I do a flat 20 min TT. &#xA;I take the avg. power from that TT (not the norm. power) and multiply by .95 (or take 5% off, whatever is easiest). For example: a 300 watt average over 20 mins would indicate an FTP of 285. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do after that is keep an eye on my IF (intensity factor) and my TSS (training stress score). If that is all gibberish to you I would recommend getting the book!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peakscoachinggroup.com/Archivedarticles/Determining%20Your%20Lactate%20Threshold.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.peakscoachinggroup.com/Archivedarticles/Determining%20Your%20Lactate%20Threshold.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://home.trainingpeaks.com/power411.aspx&quot;&gt;http://home.trainingpeaks.com/power411.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T21:41:18.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:44:20.243" Score="22" ViewCount="7381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an HTC Hero, which is a great phone, but the battery life is pretty poor if I'm using the GPS and music player on it as well. The phone uses a mini-USB connection for charging, and I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://powertraveller.com/iwantsome/primatepower/000239/&quot;&gt;Powermonkey&lt;/a&gt; portable charger just in case my phone runs out of juice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for longer rides, the extra charge and a half I get from the Powermonkey might not be enough - what other good options do I have? Either to charge the phone, or the Powermonkey, when cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-25T18:53:13.723" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T16:12:20.053" Title="How can I charge my phone while cycling?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;electric-power&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:46:39.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that a distinction needs to be made between a Podcast and music.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that listening to talk is ok while riding, and will do that. Or I will talk on the phone, since my 'music' device is my Blackberry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Music however is different than talk.  Talk is usually quieter, not as continuous, and easy to hear car and traffic noises over it as background noises. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading the comments, I guess I need to say, that the above works for me.  Others may experience talk vs music differently than I do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2010-09-03T18:18:19.137" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T18:18:19.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="643" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:47:09.077" Score="14" ViewCount="11988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a lot about wet vs dry chain lube and there doesn't seem a definitive answer on whether to use wet or dry chain lube in the winter. Some forums are full of people saying they only use dry lube because it doesn't wash off as easy, then other forums are full of people saying the opposite, for the opposite reason!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of chain lube is best for winter riding (water, gritted roads etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T17:44:57.373" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T12:27:01.007" Title="What type of chain lube is best for winter riding?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="592" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:47:54.600" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;When to replace a bicycle helmet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any fall that impacted the helmet.  There can easily be hard to see cracks, crumbling or compression of the foam; and all of those will make the helmet less effective.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you dropped it pretty hard and there's any likelihood of damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the outer shell is separating from the foam.  The shell helps protect your neck. Also, if the shell is separating it may indicate the foam has compressed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the outer shell has any significant scuffing.  One of the ways that a helmet protects you is by helping your head to slide across rough surfaces instead of sticking, so if the helmet surface is now rough instead of smooth you lose that protection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T21:47:54.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="612" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:48:49.373" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to take a stab at answering the question, with the added spin of my comment above. What you need at this point is enough information so you can go into a shop and try a few bikes, so the shop doesn't try to sell you the bike they have, rather than the bike you need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bike suited for commuting bikes and a bike you'd ride on the weekends aren't necessarily going to be the same type of bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A bike for commuting&lt;/strong&gt; should be reasonably fast, comfortable, and the frame should have fittings for a rack. A &lt;strong&gt;hybrid&lt;/strong&gt; such as Dana suggested above would work well. These are often aluminum or steel, sometimes with a carbon front fork. (I'd stay away from a carbon fork, especially on the streets of Queens.) Aluminum frames are light, but they give a harsher ride -- you'll feel every pothole! Steel is a more forgiving frame material, it soaks up a lot of rough-road vibrations; and your hands will thank you later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also ride a &lt;strong&gt;touring bike&lt;/strong&gt;. Those are essentially steel road bikes, designed to carry stuff and be comfortable for longer rides. These can be a little bit of overkill, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a good touring bike in the $500 range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike for &lt;strong&gt;casual weekend riding&lt;/strong&gt; (what I'm thinking of as a bike-path bike, whether or not you're on a bike path) would be comfortable when ridden at a slow to moderate pace. Something with a more upright posture would be called for. A large, cushy seat, large swept-back handlebars -- essentially a **cruiser* or similar bike. (I also think of these as &quot;beach bikes&quot; in the privacy of my own head.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's called a &lt;strong&gt;comfort bike&lt;/strong&gt; like the Trek Navigator would also work well for weekend riding; these are bikes similar to cruisers, without the cool factor like neato paint jobs, extremely swept back handlebars, et cetera. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cruisers and comfort bikes are good for weekend riding, but they tend to run on the heavy side, and they're not comfortable for rides of more than a few miles. Road bikes can be expensive, but they don't necessarily serve the needs of commuters. I think the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/612/purchasing-a-bike/615#615&quot;&gt;recommendation of a hybrid bike&lt;/a&gt; may be your best bet. If possible in your budget, see if you can get something made of steel, or with some rudimentary suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension&lt;/strong&gt; can be a waste of weight and it soaks up your pedaling energy and translates it into making the bike bounce up and down. It's also hard to find suspension in lower-end bikes that isn't a waste of money. You'll want to avoid full-frame suspension, no question. You can probably find a bike with a suspension fork, that is, front suspension, but try to find one that lets you turn the suspension off for when you're riding on pavement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option no-one's mentioned yet is a &lt;strong&gt;folding bike&lt;/strong&gt;, useful if you need to take your bike on transit during rush hour. On the other hand, spending $500 on a folding bike... eh, save your money, unless you buy used. Folding bikes cost more for the same quality of non-folding bike, usually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, bring a knowledgeable friend to the bike shop with you, and always test-ride a bike, preferable for a few miles if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also want to do some reading on how to get a bike that fits you; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;there's&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plenty&lt;/a&gt; on the web about this, but make sure your saddle isn't too low or you'll be paying for that later -- or rather, your knees will. (The bike approach to the Queensboro bridge alone will take care of that.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In closing, you can ignore all this advice and buy the bike you enjoy and are comfortable on. What works for me won't necessarily work for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T21:48:49.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="616" CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:49:34.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My general rule of thumb is 10-15% lower than the posted maximum for normal road riding. Higher if you're carrying a load or are a larger rider, lower if you're a lighter rider. There's an article in Bicycle Quarterly that's a pretty good guide on tire pressure for road riding depending on weight and width of tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/images/TireDrop.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/images/TireDrop.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="252" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T21:49:34.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2010-09-02T22:06:23.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;check out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2010/06/nokia-announces-bike-powered-phone-charger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2010/06/nokia-announces-bike-powered-phone-charger&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or you can go crazy and get a dynamo front hub and a charger from busch and Muller (Germany).&#xA;this will cost you a pretty penny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="batman" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T22:06:23.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2010-09-02T22:10:08.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing you could consider would be getting a larger large-chainring if you find yourself hitting top speed often on the streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="255" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T22:10:08.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2010-09-02T22:18:35.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a HTC Hero which I charge using one of Ladyada's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ladyada.net/make/mintyboost/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Minty Boosts (v2)&lt;/a&gt;, when it gets caught short. This uses 2 AA batteries (which could very well be pre-charged rechargeables) to charge the phone (2 AAs give me between 20% and 30% of a full charge in about 30 minutes). I don't tend to charge using it while I'm riding, as it gets rather hot, and I'm not convinced my soldering is up to the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the internet there are various instructions to modify Minty Boosts to run off solar power but on Instructables there's also a modification to run this off a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Charge-Any-USB-Device-by-Riding-Your-Bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike dynamo&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2013-05-25T21:09:11.627" LastActivityDate="2013-05-25T21:09:11.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-02T22:29:04.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are products like these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iworld.co.uk/p/Slipstreamz_Cycling_Earwear_for_Headphones.htm?affiliatecode=gbase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.iworld.co.uk/p/Slipstreamz_Cycling_Earwear_for_Headphones.htm?affiliatecode=gbase&lt;/a&gt; which move your earbuds outside of your ear and cut down on wind noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember seeing some specialist earbuds which appeared to be a hollow tube earlier this year, they were supposed to allow you to listen to your music and hear traffic noise but I can't seem to track them down on Google, if you can find them they might also be an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't dream of riding whilst listening to music if I couldn't hear the traffic noise, and as other posters have mentioned it might be useful to hear the noises from your bike too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The BBC this morning were carrying a news item where a Road Safety organisation waa calling for a widespread campaign to inform the public of the dangers of walking/cycling  whilst wearing earphones (there were two other suggestions for other campaigns too). As they were said to be a contributing factor in a large number of accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2010-09-21T17:31:04.237" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T17:31:04.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2010-09-02T22:53:11.050" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I would go with the finish line wet as opposed to the dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically I use the dry if I want something that will keep my chain looking clean as well as lubricated. From personal experience I have found that I need to reapply the dry lube more often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will use a wet lube, sparingly mind you, for the nastier conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having wasted your time with that I would say that storage temperature/location, how you clean the chain (method, frequency and intensity) and how you apply the lube (gobs vs. sparingly on each link) is more important than the &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; of lube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T22:53:11.050" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2010-09-02T23:44:48.230" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you can get razor sharp tan lines.&#xA;Pesky hair can result in migrating shorts which leads to blurring of the tan line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And really ... if you are going to look foolish, you might as well just jump RIGHT in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T23:44:48.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-09-02T23:50:33.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bike commute and do a lot other exercise, and have learned that it is indeed possible to eat &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt; before a ride. If I'm going to be biking early enough in the day, I'll usually just eat a very light snack, like a banana or a glass of smoothie or juice, and depending on the length of the ride, have a snack bar or juice box part way through the ride. I'll then eat a larger breakfast once I get where I'm going (this only works if your employer doesn't mind you coming in a bit early to eat and surf the web). By spreading out the food and not eating too much right before, you will actually have more energy in your system since you won't be busy digesting while you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T23:50:33.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="345" CreationDate="2010-09-02T23:53:42.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.endurobearings.com/bicycle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.endurobearings.com/bicycle.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically go to the products section, tools and look at the BRT-001.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have one, works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-02T23:53:42.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2010-09-03T00:30:56.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;always having spare bottle is never hurt, making sure you'll have clean bottle whenever you needed one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;i have developed habit to drink just before riding (always). even if not thirsty which mean i'll have to check my bottle, and if something wrong (like the bottle was empty) i still at home (office)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;i'm using bicycle as my main method of transportation (whether its near or far) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T00:30:56.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-09-03T00:40:50.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Food can be highly personal and it can take a while to figure out what works best for you.  Get a group of randonneurs together and you'd be amazed at the variety of food and drink used to keep moving through a very long ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you should try balancing carbs (easy to digest, high energy) with other sources of energy, especially protein and often-overlooked fat.  It's a slow-burn source of energy, which fits nicely with endurance sports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as MDV2000 pointed out, what usually gets me on a morning commute is lack of water.  Your body needs plenty of fluids first thing in the morning.  If I don't drink enough before leaving the house, I start to feel sluggish and light-headed 30min into the ride.  Drink half a bottle and I'm back to normal within minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T00:40:50.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2010-09-03T00:55:06.357" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three options that I know of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AA cell phone charger&lt;/strong&gt; (which you're already using) -- uses 2 or 4 AA's to recharge your gadgets.  I use an Energizer model to charge my GPS for rides over 12 hours.  Of course you need to carry enough batteries for the length of your ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solar charger&lt;/strong&gt; -- can be mounted on a handlebar bag, a rear rack or hanging from your pack and typically has mini-USB connections for cell phones etc.  No batteries required but won't help much on a rainy day.  I've seen a variety of these at local outdoors shops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dynamo hub charger&lt;/strong&gt; -- this is probably the most expensive option, especially if you don't already have a dynamo hub.  I'd like one of these (already have the hub) but the AA charger has been fine so far.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T00:55:06.357" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="338" CreationDate="2010-09-03T01:02:48.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what usually I'll bring on commuting more than 50km:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire patching kit (tire lever, patch kit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare tube (actually it goes first, if its get another failure, the i'll go with the patch kit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multi-tool (never hurt for me to add few ounce to more than allen key)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;human repair kit (aka. first aid kit), you'll never know what happens next&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;additional water bottle (i use one bottle and one hydration pack on my bag). water is very important&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;note:&#xA;Mostly i use singlespeed bike, and above package is the one suits me (on my current condition, elevation, and climate), there must be difference &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T01:02:48.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2010-09-03T01:12:21.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usual brakes, front and rear!&#xA;because sometime i used single-speed too (i used a flip-flop hub) if the terrain too punishing&#xA;therefore both brakes is mandatory for me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but in case i have no spare brakes for my bike on the workshop (i seldom recycling unused bikes to usable bikes, so i have to make all parts used carefully) , i'll only use front brake and I'll find the rear brake another day, so at least it usable and safety&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastEditorUserId="265" LastEditDate="2010-09-03T01:18:30.320" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T01:18:30.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2010-09-03T02:56:27.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;for urban riding you can use lighting if you often ride at dark, and don't forget to get some lock to your bike. better safe than sorry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="265" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T02:56:27.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2010-09-03T02:56:28.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you're riding and what you're taking, a rear rack might be worth the investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T02:56:28.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-03T04:33:23.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically listen to just the right side of my shuffle's headphones. That way I have a fighting chance of hearing anyone calling out to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had this site bookmarked for quite some time now: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scansound.com/xcart/home.php?cat=269&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.scansound.com/xcart/home.php?cat=269&lt;/a&gt; That's what I'm going to try next. All channels in one bud. Should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, when I'm actually on a busy road I turn off the music. I want to hear everything around me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: I used to listen to podcasts but that took too much concentration. Now I just shuffle through random tunes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastEditorUserId="204" LastEditDate="2010-09-03T04:39:21.463" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T04:39:21.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2010-09-03T05:29:13.813" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience has been that the Wet / Dry naming of the product is a hint as to what conditions the product is designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet lube is typically more like motor or sewing machine oil, and is designed to coat the chain and protect it in wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry lube is usually a teflon lube in an evaporating or wax base, so the teflon particles stay in the links without a lot of wet &quot;gunk&quot; left on the chain to pick up sand, dust, grime, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T05:29:13.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2010-09-03T05:29:16.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Joe Friel &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2008/01/ftp-and-power.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;claims a 30-minute TT&lt;/a&gt; which is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; part of a race (ie, when the athlete is less motivated) estimates FTP. He also suggests FTP can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2010/08/estimating-your-ftp.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;estimated from weight and age&lt;/a&gt;, though clearly this is only going to hold for athletes who are similarly trained. Other estimations of FTP include the NP from a hard 1 hour mass start race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://alex-cycle.blogspot.com/2008/05/seven-deadly-sins.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;7 deadly sins article&lt;/a&gt; for more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T05:29:16.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-03T05:52:08.307" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to listen to an iPod while riding (commuting in a city) but decided it wasn't worth the chance of not hearing the monster trucks in time. Haven't listened to anything while riding for 3 years now. I don't really miss it, but my ride's only 30-40 minutes long. I do like hearing the sounds of the river valley along the ride, which I missed completely while the iPod was playing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T05:52:08.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="681" CreationDate="2010-09-03T08:27:19.060" Score="24" ViewCount="2080" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to determine the correct crank length for my height and more specifically my leg length?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-09T18:03:03.100" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T23:49:35.723" Title="Selecting the right crank length" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-09-03T08:34:44.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My staple is porridge with skimmed milk and any toppings of your choosing.  My favourites are honey, raisins and cinnamon.  I try and eat a couple of hours before riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oats are a rich source of complex carbs and provide a slow release throughout the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T08:34:44.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="675" CreationDate="2010-09-03T08:41:08.723" Score="7" ViewCount="1975" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of years ago I tightened the bolt attaching my rear mudguard/fender to the eyelet at the hub and it snapped, leaving a 5mm long section of bolt stuck in the thread. Since then I've tried various things to get it out, all ending in dismal failure. So I've had to use the less effective type of mudguards that are strapped to the stays with cable ties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Getting at the small amount of protruding metal with small pliers: not enough metal to grip it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;using a threaded bolt extractor of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p51010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this type&lt;/a&gt;: there wasn't enough thread exposed on the other for the extractor to get a grip&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trying to drill into the middle of the bolt: the drill bit broke!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is aluminium. The bike is audax/sportive type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I tried everything suggested, except the blowtorch, to no avail. So I gave up and got a new frame, something I 'd been thinking of doing for a while as it has been showing its age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastEditorUserId="259" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T09:04:23.390" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T09:04:23.390" Title="removing broken mudguard/fender bolt from eyelet" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;braze-on&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-09-03T08:43:42.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As much important as breakfast is the dinner the day before. My friends who practice cycling or triathlon eat plenty of pasta or rice at dinner before a competition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T08:43:42.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="338" CreationDate="2010-09-03T08:56:59.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never ride far from civilization, so I don't bring any repair kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My policy is prevention:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take care of my bicycle everyday&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bring it to a repair shop for periodic maintenance and for checks before a long ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then my repair kit is composed only of a VISA card in case of emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T08:56:59.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="338" CreationDate="2010-09-03T09:17:35.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might be a wee bit excessive but just for everyday commuting I carry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patch kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare tube x2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hand pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;foldable tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multitool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pocketknife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first aid kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chaintool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire lever x2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;allen keys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dumbbell wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also this is the greatest cycling wrench ever&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/shopping/product/17793775178922196830?hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.google.com/shopping/product/17793775178922196830?hl=en&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="251" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T04:32:04.370" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T04:32:04.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2010-09-03T09:24:33.173" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;regular (rim brakes) or disc brakes are the safest hands down, as long as you know how to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fixie skidding limits you to either 1 or 2 pedal positions,depending on rider, to brake in and since there is no front brake it can take yards to completely stop.&#xA;coaster brakes are similar to fixies because it can take a while to stop. also on a long descent using a coaster brake can actually cause it to overheat and explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when using rim brakes you should almost always (80%+) use the front brake. it stops you much faster but you need to learn to slightly brace yourself so you dont fly over the handlebars.&#xA;use the rear brake on long descents and in wet weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="251" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T09:24:33.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-09-03T09:34:19.527" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Cable Stretcher&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A.K.A. &amp;quot;Fourth Hand&amp;quot; brake tool&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kuDD7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable stretcher is used to stretch brake cables when installing brakes or new cable. It can also be used to tighten zip ties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="251" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T15:35:12.123" CommentCount="8" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-03T09:34:19.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="674" CreationDate="2010-09-03T09:42:53.410" Score="4" ViewCount="572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a a 10 speed dual crankset that has 180mm cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the SRAM cranksets only come in 170 and 175mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T11:11:03.497" Title="What MTB 10 speed double cranksets exist with 180mm cranks?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2010-09-03T09:53:32.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;disc brakes are definitely the way to go&#xA;ive seen people in portland now running disc brakes on everything and even fixed gears just to combat the wetness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="251" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T09:53:32.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="468" CreationDate="2010-09-03T09:59:34.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;you could use one behind seat kid seat and one top tube kid seat.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDdvn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CoeE5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="251" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T09:59:34.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-09-03T10:22:42.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently developing &lt;a href=&quot;http://gpsloglabs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GPSLog Labs&lt;/a&gt; to do just that. I'm a keen cyclist and built the site to track my rides and training that I record on a simple GPS logger. You can also use your Nokia or any of the many Android and iPhone apps that let you export GPX files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's got zillions of features and stats and does smart processing of the resulting logs to help you compare rides as accurately as possible. Give it a try and I'd love to hear what you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="276" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T10:22:42.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-03T10:38:27.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been listening to music and podcasts while riding for 10+ years and never had the slightest problem hearing traffic or other cyclists. I definitely recommend podcasts or talk radio as music has to be much louder to be heard over the traffic noise (cars are really loud!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never understood this debate, as if anyone would spend 4 hours in a car with no stereo to pass the time and since when do people insist car drivers can hear their surroundings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noise canceling headphones are clearly a dumb idea, but earbuds with foam around them work best to reduce wind noise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a cheap mp3 player (so you're not scared of rain or dropping it) with an easily accessible pause button (in case someone wants to talk to you at a traffic light) and volume controls you can reach easily and operate one handed. Load it up with some good smart/funny/inspiring speakers and get outside and on your bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="276" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T10:38:27.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2010-09-03T10:54:45.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes are definitely the way to go. The first time you pull the brakes in wet weather (and every subsequent time) be prepared for a high pitched squeal reminiscent of an articulated lorry stopping. You'll definitely be able to get pedestrian's to notice you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T10:54:45.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="668" CreationDate="2010-09-03T11:11:03.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/new_xtr/component_systems/race.html#drivetrain/0001/FC-M985&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/new_xtr/component_systems/race.html#drivetrain/0001/FC-M985&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully that links you to the XTR Race crankset. Double and available in 180mm. &#xA;Then new XT Dyna-sys cranksets, in triple, will also be available in 180mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T11:11:03.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="662" CreationDate="2010-09-03T11:25:42.703" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try slicing, with a dremel or similar instrument, a 'notch' into the bolt that would allow a flat edge to fit in. &#xA;Soak the bolt/area with a penetrating lubricant (PB Blaster or some such) or ammonia, let it sit and do its work for a few minutes (some folks recommend 24 hrs), and then attempt to 'tighten it through' the eyelet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try to heat it w/ a propane torch for 30 seconds or so and then try again to tighten the bolt through eyelet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T11:25:42.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2010-09-03T11:43:28.517" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are trading in 'road feel' and perhaps increasing your rolling resistance for durability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a set of Vittoria Open Corsa tyres have 320 tpi (threads per inch) and are quite supple. They will, to some people, give the perception of a smoother ride with less rolling resistance. The same could be said for many of the higher end race tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By adding a puncture resistant layer or 'belt' you can reduce the suppleness of the tyre and increase your rolling resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-1503651.html&quot;&gt;http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-1503651.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically if you are commuting or just putting in long training miles I would recommend a puncture resistant tyre. If you are racing, TT'ing or participating in an event where you are worried about mere seconds, I would perhaps not use a puncture resistant tyre and choose weight and reduced rolling resistance first and foremost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T11:43:28.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2010-09-03T12:44:13.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weight &amp;amp; Price are the two downsides I can see. Having said that, I suffered with thorn punctures for a long time and it got to the stage where I was fixing a puncture every single week. In the end I went to my bike shop and asked for a recommendation. Since then I haven't had a single puncture. The puncture-resistant inner tubes are about twice as thick as a regular inner tube. Unless you're into your racing and every gram makes a difference, I would definitely recommend fitting some thicker puncture-resistant inner tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T12:44:13.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="338" CreationDate="2010-09-03T13:14:29.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gus's recommendations are solid. The only other things I would recommend is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quick link (I carry an 8, 9 and 10spd regardless ... help out others!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;money of some sort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyre boot (thicker plastic liner that can be placed in the tyre if tyre gets sliced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;duct tape (yeah, it CAN solve everything) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T13:14:29.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2010-09-03T13:56:51.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a visualization technique.  I visualize something I must do - mount the bike for example - and use that activity as a trigger to ask myself a question; do I have my water bottle, my pack, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T13:56:51.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1187" CreationDate="2010-09-03T15:15:09.343" Score="3" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to replace the bearings in my front and rear &lt;code&gt;WTB Laser Disc Lite&lt;/code&gt; hubs. I'm interested in upgrading the OEM steel bearings to a ceramic hybrid. I've hear that Enduro is a quality manufacturer of ceramic hybrid bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does Enduro make a ceramic hybrid bearing replacement kit for &lt;code&gt;WTB Laser Disc Lite&lt;/code&gt; hubs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unable to find any information on Enduro's site (http://www.endurobearings.com) or on other sites selling Enduro wheel bearing kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please provide information on part numbers and where to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2010-09-03T23:09:38.490" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T10:52:32.530" Title="Does Enduro make a ceramic hybrid wheel bearing kit for WTB Laser Disc Lite hubs?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="660" CreationDate="2010-09-03T16:31:20.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably going to depend on a bit more than just your height or leg length (though I'm sure a rough idea can be gleaned). Your specific bike (geometry) and riding position will also affect crank length a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few good links on the subject that go beyond my knowledge on the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cptips.com/crnklth.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.cptips.com/crnklth.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nettally.com/palmk/Crankset.html&quot;&gt;http://www.nettally.com/palmk/Crankset.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roble.net/marquis//crank.length&quot;&gt;http://www.roble.net/marquis//crank.length&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T16:31:20.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="662" CreationDate="2010-09-03T16:35:26.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the bike to your local automotive repair/machine shop.  Bolts into a blind hole with the head sheared off is a common automotive problem.  They will have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tools&lt;/a&gt; to take care of this problem.  5mm is on the small side for automotive bolts so you may have to contact more than one shop to find one with a screw extractor (aka easy out) for 1/8&quot; or 3/16&quot; bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Reading your question again (and following the link this time) I see that you are already onto the easy out idea.  What the automotive machine shop will probably be able to do that you cannot do at home is to use a drill press to create a small hole in the middle of the stuck bolt.  That small hole will give the screw extractor more surface for a better grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastEditorUserId="133" LastEditDate="2010-09-10T14:19:46.267" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T14:19:46.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-03T17:33:23.650" Score="5" ViewCount="7361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike (Surly Crosscheck) that is used for commuting and cyclocross. As it's a bit older and disc brakes were not legal for 'cross until recently, it has cantilever brakes for optimal mud clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also kind of suck for commuting in a rainy city with panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been debating doing a conversion to discs for this bike, but I don't really know what I'd need to replace, so a list would be highly helpful, then I can price it out and decide whether or not I should just buy a new bike... Possibly I could also keep the cantilever on the rear and just go with a disc on the front for good stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably the wheels and front fork at the least would need to change. As would the brifters as those probably pull differently. What else would I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T00:10:52.120" Title="Converting an existing cyclocross bike to disc brakes" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="683" CreationDate="2010-09-03T17:53:55.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need new hubs to mount the disc on (probably whole new wheel). They used to make clamp on adaptors for forks that didn't have disc mounts so you may just be able to get one of those and keep the fork you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go with cable discs (cheaper but not the same stopping power) or hydraulics (best stopping power but more $$).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T17:53:55.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2010-09-03T18:45:13.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the chain get tighter in certain points of the revolution? This could be the culprit. When you put weight down, and the chain has a lot of tension, things will creak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain tightness could come from overtightened back wheel placement, the actual chain links, chain-wheel/cogs not being perfect circles, or even improperly spaced chain teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="66" LastEditDate="2010-09-05T18:10:11.147" LastActivityDate="2010-09-05T18:10:11.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2010-09-03T20:41:31.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other possibilities not mentioned are chain ring bolts, rear quick release, frame crack, and depending on the make and model of the frame an internal frame piece used during frame construction can also creak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="289" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T20:41:31.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="683" CreationDate="2010-09-03T20:50:04.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydraulics for your drop bar bike might be difficult to acquire. I believe that someone made a cable actuated hydraulic brake ... it was downright terrible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clamp on adaptors are in my experience a nightmare. They allow for greater vibration and therefore terrible noises. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, check your bike for disc tabs. If it doesn't have them you could have them welded onto your frame by a local builder. As well this could be your opportunity to upgrade your bike. Haha. As well it might be cheaper to simply purchase a new fork rather than have tabs welded on. Who knows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, check your wheels. Do you have disc hubs? If not you will minimum have to rebuild your wheels with a new hub. Ensure that you can build the wheels in a nice dependable 3 cross pattern to resist wind up. Again, this might be the time to get a nice new set of wheels. Or the opportunity you have been looking for to start building your own wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, what shifters do you have? Does your crosscheck have barcons w/ independent brake levers or STI style shifters? If you have STI style shifters then AVID makes a bb7 road disc caliper. This caliper has had the pull adjusted to accommodate road set ups. If your setup features independent brake levers for the calipers the road bb7 is your best choice as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about all I've got for you. If I can think of more ... I'll be back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-03T20:50:04.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2010-09-03T21:23:34.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bonthronebikes.co.uk/423-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Roller Brake&lt;/a&gt; (a type of hub brakes) and have never had problems in the rain, I don’t know how well they will work at -25c as the grease may go hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h08Nm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can not use them for &lt;strong&gt;very long&lt;/strong&gt; hills, as they overheat, the grease melts and they stop working.     However for normal transport type cycling they are great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2014-09-21T21:12:30.893" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T21:12:30.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="694" CreationDate="2010-09-04T00:57:17.027" Score="45" ViewCount="4262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in NYC and would like to ride to work during the winter as well. What should one do to a mountain bike?  a road bike?  If you can also show products that you actually use that would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-11T19:19:52.073" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T21:05:03.427" Title="How do I gear up a bike for winter riding?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;us&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2010-09-04T06:09:01.330" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your area gets colder than mine.  I ride through winter, but mostly deal with rain, puddles and cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basics: for &lt;strong&gt;wet conditions&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;puddles&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;rain&lt;/strong&gt;), you need &lt;strong&gt;fenders&lt;/strong&gt; (aka mudguards).  The fuller the coverage the better, and mudflaps at the end are good.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory/587#587&quot;&gt;this comment on the useful accessories community wiki&lt;/a&gt; for the specific model I happen to use. You'll also need to rainproof yourself, of course, but fenders will keep the rain from splashing off of the street onto you. Rear fender prevents the stripe up your back, front primarily protects your feet and ankles from splashing.  They also protect the bike from that splashing.  For my non-icy, non-snowy area, that's all I've equipped my bike with for winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;fresh snow&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;mud&lt;/strong&gt;, a mountain bike with the kind of &lt;strong&gt;knobby tires&lt;/strong&gt; typical for a mountain bike should be good.  On a road bike, you might be able to mount cyclocross tires, but this could prove tricky depending on how much clearance your frame has.  However, they probably plow your routes so that you'd hardly ever have to actually ride in snow. (you'll also want fenders for those conditions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;ice&lt;/strong&gt; (which can be left behind after plowing), you should look into &lt;strong&gt;studded tires&lt;/strong&gt;.  These generally look a lot like the knobby mountain bike tires, but there are metal studs in some of the knobs so that you get a bit of grip on ice.  Most studded tires seem to be made for off-road stuff, but there are a few models with a smoother tread designed for use on roads where they might be a patch of ice here or there.  You might find some cyclocross type studded tires you could get onto a road bike, but this is likely to be much easier to do on your mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never used any of them, but here's some examples of the more road friendly models of studded tires: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suomityres.fi/hkplstud.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.suomityres.fi/hkplstud.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/marathon_winter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbetires.com/marathon_winter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/1368&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/1368&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T22:56:55.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-09-04T07:14:18.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Garmin Edge 500. It's small, light, and works with ANT+ devices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a full review see Ray Maker's blog: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2009/11/garmin-edge-500-in-depth-review.html&quot;&gt;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2009/11/garmin-edge-500-in-depth-review.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had mine since March, and I've recently coupled it with a Powertap PRO+ power meter. The combination is a bit pricey though, but there are two great things that you get from this combo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Once you've figured out your power levels, you can ride right at the edge without blowing up. This is especially important on hills where your initial effort at the bottom winds up being way too much for the conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It's great for measuring your progress over time, especially if you test yourself on the same course over a year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Garmin connect software is OK. What is cool is you can look at other people's numbers to see how you stack up. For example, you can check out Ryder Hesjedal's &quot;easy mountain day&quot; on Stage 14 in this year's Tour de France. Newbie here - I can't add the link, but you can find it by searching for &quot;ryder hesjedal stage 14 garmin connect&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T07:14:18.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="693" CreationDate="2010-09-04T10:31:54.970" Score="28" ViewCount="76010" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just tried cleaning my chain and cogs with some really hot water and washing-up liquid. I also used a toothbrush, j-cloth and a non-scratch scourer. After over an hour of some serious elbow grease I could shift some of the outer dirt and muck, but still can't get the base layer of grease off. What can I use to completely strip the grease and muck off the chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastActivityDate="2020-12-14T17:33:32.463" Title="What to use to clean your chain (and cogs)?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="692" CreationDate="2010-09-04T11:25:42.423" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;A degreaser, whether aerosol or not, is an excellent way to remove grease from the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/citrus-cleaner.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/citrus-cleaner.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/speed-clean.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/speed-clean.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The degreaser will reduce the amount of elbow grease required but be careful and use a set of nitrile gloves to protect your hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My simple chain cleaning method is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shift into the big ring and little cog, wet the rag with the degreaser&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grip the chain (lower portion, going from big ring to the derailleur) with the rag, focusing on holding firmly onto the outer plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the crank putting the chain through the rag. Readjust as necessary as you remove grease and grime from the chain (ie. don't keep rewiping schmutz back onto the chain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When sufficiently clean, remove the rear wheel from the bike and place it between yourself and a wall (ie. tyre against your stomach/tyre against the wall keeping the wheel propped between yourself and the wall) over a garbage can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a thin screwdriver or a cleaning tool ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=4&amp;amp;item=GSC-1&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=4&amp;amp;item=GSC-1&lt;/a&gt; ) clean the grass and grease build up from between the cogs of the cassette/freewheel. Lightly apply degreaser to the brush portion of the tool and scrub at the cogs to free up the grease/grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a rag, with degreaser on it, insert the edge of the rag between the cogs and 'saw' back and forth with your hands thus spinning the cassette and fully wiping the whole cog. I typically move from top to bottom of the cassette (keep the grime flowing downwards). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wipe down cassette, hub and any spokes/rim that could have been contaminated. Reinstall the wheel in the bike and one last time wipe down the chain with the degreaser rag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And typically ... that method suffices for cleaning any of my bikes. The one caveat is that I typically don't let the chain get grease/grime covered and thus this takes about 3-5 minutes max and works really well. The worse your chain, the more you have to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to look at your derailleur pulley wheels and using a flat edge against the pulleys as you spin the crank, remove the grease rings from the pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to pre scrub the chain (similar to how you did the cassette) to loosen the grease/grime on the chain. A tooth brush w/ degreaser or the GSC-1 mentioned above would be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Andddd... that's about all I've got for now. There are a plethora of other methods using chain cleaning tools, removal and soaking of the chain and nastier solvents but for the majority this method seems to work fairly well.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T11:25:42.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2010-09-04T15:09:19.930" Score="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the winter you will have to contend with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ice and snow on the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freezing bike parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold winds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overheating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Ice and snow on the road&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This past winter I used the Schwalbe &quot;Marathon Winter&quot; tires for a 3-mile commute along a rural highway and town streets in central Vermont. Our winters are quite a bit more severe than NYC, but if you have ice on the streets that might be unavoidable, studded tires are a must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4006/4183671114_db0b5bd858_m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Schwalbe Marathon Winter tires&quot;&gt;&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamfranco/4183671114/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;photo from Flickr&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At $74 a piece from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peter White Cycles&lt;/a&gt;, they aren't cheap, but they are decent in light/thin snow and fabulous on ice. Each tire has 240 tungsten-carbide studs, whose sharp (cylindrical) tips haven't dulled at all for me. While knobby plain-rubber tires will grip alright in snow-on-dry-pavement, as soon as a thin layer of ice forms on top of the pavement (either due to a melt-freeze cycle or packing by auto-tires) the rubber tires will very quickly loose any ability to grip and will send you down hard. With these tires I've had no problem riding a hundred yards on a large patch of black-ice on a fast downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Wet&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As freiheit &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/689/how-do-i-gear-up-a-bike-for-winter-riding/690#690&quot;&gt;mentions&lt;/a&gt;, your other big concern is being wet since even if it isn't raining, puddle-splash and lighter mist from passing vehicles will moisten you up. As well, your own tires will throw off a lot of water from wet roads (fenders are very helpful for this). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have quite a few options to stay dry. Since my commute is only 3 miles, I wear gore-tex rain pants and jacket over my normal work cloths. I also keep a pair of shoes at work and bike in hiking boots during the wet months of October/November and then switch to snow boots January-March.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Freezing bike parts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the air temperature is below freezing and your bike gets covered in moisture you can expect ice to build up. I keep my bike in my warm office at work (on some mats to catch the drips) and in an unheated shed at home. I haven't had repeated problems with freeze-ups, but did have to melt some ice off of the derailleur with a hair drier at home once. If you can get the bike warm at least once a day and keep it stored under a roof you shouldn't have too much build-up. Just remember to test your brakes frequently in case a layer of ice forms on your rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. Cold winds&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the speeds of riding, you will almost always have at least 10mph of very cold wind to contend with. Your rain gear will help with that, but you also need to protect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your hands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your head/ears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your face&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many options for gloves and mittens available, just make sure that you choose something wind-proof and waterproof. For the coldest parts of the winter I use a pair of gore-tex mittens marketed for skiing/snowboarding. I don't find the mittens to get in the way of shifting or braking on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamfranco/4182906871/in/photostream/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;my commuter bike&lt;/a&gt;, but others prefer gloves for more dexterity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many helmet-liners and covers available to keep your head warm under a bicycle helmet, but I just use a ski helmet (the Giro 9) since it has built-in ear protectors, changeable amounts of ventilation, and nicely fits goggles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ddRFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most of the coldest months I ride with ski goggles. These keep the wind off of my eyes (which otherwise water a lot in the cold wind) and keep most of my face warm. They are also great for protecting the face when it is snowing or sleeting. On a few bitter cold days I've also added neck warmers to cover the lower part of my face, but usually the combination of goggles and the neck of my coat are enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5. Overheating&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counter-intuitively, my biggest challenge with winter commuting is staying cool. My commute profile is a broad 'w' with downhills at the start each way, a few small hills in the middle, and an uphill at the end. For the first large downhill I try to be a little on the cold side so that I can be comfortable for the rest of the ride. Often though, I bundle up a bit too much and overheat later. The best technique I've found (when riding in work clothes rather than changing) is to layer breathable sweaters or fleece so that I am just short of comfortable out of the wind, then add the wind-proof pants and jacket with the pit-zips and other ventilation open. The wind-proof material will keep most of the wind from cutting through while the ventilation openings will allow enough air circulation to stay cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T07:12:04.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="696" CreationDate="2010-09-04T16:18:10.337" Score="9" ViewCount="3431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd it possible to purchase 16&quot; studded tires? I have an old Dahon I use as a winter bike, and I'd like to replace the tires with proper snow tires if this is possible. If not, has anyone here successfully made studded tires from smaller-wheeled knobbies? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T14:37:28.593" Title="Studded tires for small wheels" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="695" CreationDate="2010-09-04T16:31:24.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is make your own studded tires from the old tires you have. You can buy roofing nails for very cheap, and put lots of studs on the tire (most commercially available studded tires don't have that many studs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push the nails through from the inside of the tire, wherever you want them. It's a good idea to put some on the rolling surface, and some on the sides for cornering. Once you have placed all your nails, put a layer (or two) of duct tape over the heads of the nails to protect the tube. You'll probably need to trim the nails down to the desired length with metal clippers. That's all there is to it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I have had luck with nails in the past, but on looking around at studded tire designs online, I realize that screws may in fact be a better option, as they will better resist backing out, and would be easier to replace. Scroll down on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/tires.htm&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for DIY instructions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastEditorUserId="288" LastEditDate="2010-09-04T16:49:57.227" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T16:49:57.227" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2010-09-04T16:34:53.027" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride year round, and it can get very cold in January/February. Layers are your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here's my winter riding gear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQRsQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;how I stay warm&quot;&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/dnorman/4272272818/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;annotated on Flickr&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is the windproof shell. With that on, it's VERY easy to stay warm, even down to -30˚C or lower. And windproof layers on hands and feet. Wind is evil when it's cold. EVIL!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick I use is to put a layer of plastic between the gloves - I wear a thin wool lining glove, and a thicker Sugoi outer glove, and with a layer of plastic sandwiched between them, my fingers stay toasty. Same with feet - plastic between layers of socks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, ski goggles definitely help when it's VERY cold, and when it's snowing a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, with all of the gear on, I &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/dnorman/3133195307/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;look a little strange&lt;/a&gt;. But whatever...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I agree with Adam - once bundled up, the biggest problem is staying cool. That portable sauna heats up fast (especially after a hill or two) and it's hard to cool down through all of those layers :-) It doesn't help when my water bottle freezes solid a few minute from home, either...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T16:34:53.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="692" CreationDate="2010-09-04T16:38:22.000" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442618968&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302693915&quot;&gt;degreaser&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441774255&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302693915&quot;&gt;chain cleaner&lt;/a&gt; to get the grime out - usually once a week. It's really surprising how much gunk coats the chain and cassette. I also take the rear wheel off and use a clean rag to get in between the gears to make sure it's all shiny and clear of stuff that will wear out the drivetrain prematurely (I have to replace the drivetrain every year - no point hurrying that expense along...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T16:38:22.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="701" CreationDate="2010-09-04T17:14:06.703" Score="53" ViewCount="65039" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a frame pump that I've used on the road when replacing flats, but I always see CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; inflators advertised at bike shops.  Are they worthwhile for the potential weight savings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-04T17:41:24.350" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T03:13:13.993" Title="What are advantages and disadvantages of CO2 inflators over frame pumps?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;&lt;co2&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="708" CreationDate="2010-09-04T17:36:40.057" Score="9" ViewCount="17396" Body="&lt;p&gt;My road bike currently has a 27/39/53 crankset and a 13-26 cassette, both of which need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I occasionally find myself in both extremes—while heading up the very steep hills of the Bay Area the lowest gearing sometimes isn't enough and on much of a downhill grade my legs can't keep up in the highest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth going to a wider range on the front or rear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T16:19:48.683" Title="What range of sprockets is useful in a road bike cassette?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2010-09-04T17:40:37.323" Score="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fast - generally these fill up your tire much faster than you could with a pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less effort - hook up, push button, no pumping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly less weight (but I haven't compared weight of smallest pumps to CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower initial investment - a valve and 2 cartridges generally seems to be cheaper than a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; small pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consumable cartridges - which is a cost issue if you have to fill up often&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No backup - if you patch a flat and don't get it quite right, you don't have a way to fill up anymore.  You could carry extra CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; cartridges, but then you could lose the weight advantage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limited on what tires they work with. Big tires will get less pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less friendly - if your friend gets a flat and you've got one cartridge, will you loan it? If you've got a pump it's no problem at all.  I've helped out complete strangers with my pump before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goes low faster. CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; seeps through the tube a bit faster than air, so you'll have to top off the tire sooner than if you'd used a pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility to consider is a combo unit.  Generally the pump on those is terrible, but it should be enough to get you home if you run out of CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;.  Or carry both a pump and a CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; valve and a cartridge.  That way your first flat can be fixed super-fast and you avoid all the disadvantages (and the weight of a simple valve and one cartridge isn't much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T15:25:39.300" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T15:25:39.300" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2010-09-04T17:41:15.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main benefit that I get from using a CO2 inflater over using a pump is time savings. The CO2 will fill your tire with air faster than a pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always carry a pump in addition to a CO2 inflater because the pump provides unlimited air. It's a good idea to be prepared to handle at least 2 flats so the pump is a nice backup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider just carrying a CO2 inflater during a race for the weight savings which negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T17:41:15.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-04T17:51:30.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Light &amp;amp; Motion Seca&lt;/strong&gt; - This is a powerful light that will allow you to go on rides at night. Being able to ride in the dark after working 9-5 during the winter is great. Riding trails that you ridden hundreds of times before at night is like riding a brand new trail. This light is also good for 24hr races where you're riding throughout the night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kX47S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T17:51:30.397" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-04T17:51:30.397" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-09-04T18:05:35.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 12-27 cassette would give you a slightly wider spread of gears. Depending on your drivetrain you might be able to fit a 11-32 MTB cassette, though you'll probably need an MTB rear derailleur too. The jumps between ratios on wider cassettes can be annoying, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T18:05:35.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-09-04T18:06:06.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly sounds like you should look at going to a wider range of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your triple on the front already seems like a pretty wide range, and unlikely to easily get a wider range up there, so I'm thinking you'd mostly be looking at a wider range on the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside of widening your gear range will (generally) be that you'd get less fine tuning of gears inside your range.  You should definitely pay attention to the actual gear ratios. Some careful selection (work out all your current gears and figure out what the new gears would be) could help a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now your low end is basically 1:1 and your high end is 4.1:1.  A smallest sprocket of 11 instead of 13 (without changing from a 53) would get you to 4.8:1 for your highest gear, which is about an 18% improvement and could easily be enough to get you the higher-end range it sounds like you need.  Much more low end than that might require replacing the rear derailer, but I've seen 11-34, etc, which would get your lowest gear down to 0.8:1.  Usually those have a specific &quot;granny&quot; gear on the back that's a big jump, which could still leave you with plenty of fine tuning in the rest of your gear range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-04T18:23:09.740" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T18:23:09.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="692" CreationDate="2010-09-04T18:20:29.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first secret is to try to keep your drivetrain as clean as you can. This usually means not applying too much lube. There's no need to drown the chain in lube -- you want it all on the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the chain links, not the outside where dirt will stick to it. If your clean drivetrain gets a bit sticky or dirty a wipe over with a degreaser-soaked cloth will often suffice but if you've been riding in the wet you might need to lubricate it again or if it's really dirty give it a proper clean. Here's my method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Chain&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of my chains have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=871&quot;&gt;SRAM Powerlinks&lt;/a&gt; (or the KMC/Connex equivalent) so I can remove them without tools in seconds. Once off the bike I put the chain in a plastic bottle with a little degreaser (I use white spirits, which is quite nasty but reusable -- just pour it back into a bottle and the dirt settles to the bottom) and give it a good shake (aka the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Shake&lt;/a&gt;). I brush off anything stubborn with a toothbrush afterwards then rinse, wipe dry (important to stop rust) and allow to fully air dry. When dry I lay the chain on newspaper and lubricate each link with a couple of drops of oil, allow it to soak in and then wipe any excess off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cassette (aka cogs)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a stiff brush and degreaser to take most of the dirt off then run a paper towel or cloth soaked in degreaser between the sprockets to get any remaining muck out. I also clean the derailleur jockey wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once clean and lubed it's a 10-second job to get the chain back on. It sounds like a lot of hassle but it doesn't take long and if you keep your drivetrain clean most of the time it doesn't need doing often. Clean drivetrains also look nice, work better and are easier to live with (oily, dirty exposed bits of bikes have a habit of touching anything and everything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T18:20:29.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="711" CreationDate="2010-09-04T19:00:33.600" Score="17" ViewCount="38080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've dug an old road bike out of the garage for the winter and need to upgrade the drive-train, I'm happy about most of what I need but but I'm not sure about the rear hub (an old Shimano Ultegra)..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..Will I need to change the rear hub/wheel to accommodate a 10-Speed cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T21:11:30.287" Title="I'm changing from 8-speed to 10-speed will I need to replace my rear Hub?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-09-04T19:25:19.277" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately it's a trade-off between a wider range of gears and bigger jumps between those gears.  There will always be uphills that are too steep for your lowest gear and downhills where you spin out.  If you try to fix both problems with a wider range cassette (your triple already has a great range) you may find that you're never quite in the &quot;right&quot; gear for all of the in-between situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a 11-32 cassette on my road bike (with a MTB derailleur for more capacity).  I have plenty of climbing gears but rarely use the small cogs since I spin at around 90rpm.  Like the Bay Area, there are a lot of hill around here.  But I find the jumps between gears too big (either spins too easily or too hard) so am looking for a narrower range cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want just a bit more range for climbing, you'll need to jump up to at least a 28-tooth large cog (you'll barely notice the difference going from 26 to 27) which &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; require a long-cage derailleur.  On the high end, a 12-tooth cog will be a noticeable difference over your 13.  Since you're used to a compact range you probably don't want to go with a much bigger cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot;&gt;great gearing calculator&lt;/a&gt; that you can play with to see what different combinations will give you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T19:25:19.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2010-09-04T19:32:21.280" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike shops advertise them because they're consumable items.  Every time you use a cartridge the shop is likely to make another sale.  Whereas a good pump should last through many, many flats and is less likely to get good placement in the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For advantages/disadvantages, see freiheit's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T19:32:21.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2010-09-04T20:47:39.190" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the hub is a freehub design (the freewheel mechanism is in a splined body onto which the cassette (sprockets) fit), no. 8, 9 and 10 speed cassettes are all the same width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#10cassettes&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#10cassettes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T20:47:39.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2010-09-04T21:11:30.287" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer: &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt; you don't need a new hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, you will probably need to put a small (~1mm) spacer at the back of the cassette, otherwise you won't be able to tighten the whole cassette down. Also be aware that prolonged use of a 10-speed cassette on an 8/9-speed freehub body will cause dents to form in the freehub body (because the 10-speed cogs are so narrow). The 10-speed freehub bodies have taller splines, so they avoid this problem (but don't work with 8- or 9-speed cassettes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastActivityDate="2010-09-04T21:11:30.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2010-09-05T06:16:22.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/689/how-do-i-gear-up-a-bike-for-winter-riding/694#694&quot;&gt;When you say plastic&lt;/a&gt;, do you mean cling-film, glad wrap, sandwich wrap type stuff? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Melbourne weather I struggle with the balance between freezing for the first half and melting for the second - does windproof gear breathe properly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd definitely recommend mountain bike style tyres for good grip, and a decent set of mudguards - you don't want to have to wash your bike gear every day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="308" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T02:02:18.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-05T11:40:19.117" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;strong&gt;lighting system&lt;/strong&gt; - a cominbation of a SON Hub Dynamo and Bush &amp;amp; Muller lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lights are a D'LUMOTEC oval senso plus at the front and a D'TOPLIGHT plus rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The D' is (I think) because they use LEDs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly these are seriously bright (front and rear) - front gives a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of light, enough to light up a road pretty well if dark. Back is bright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly they have a standlight function (that's the plus) so when you stop they stay lit for a few minutes (e.g. at a junction or traffic lights)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally there's the &quot;Senso&quot; feature that tips the package over from the merely excellent to the truly wonderful (any sufficiently advanced technology...) there's a sensor on the front light that turns the lights on when it gets dark - so you just ride the bike and if you need lights you have lights. Wonderful! (There's a positive on if you want and a positive off for those &quot;you've left your lights on&quot; conversations.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have all kinds of stuff for use for and with my various bikes &quot;most useful&quot; is a complex question but the automagic lights on my SpeedMachine are my favourite - my better half has the same setup on her kingcycle and, I think, a similar opinion (-:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T06:42:17.967" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T06:42:17.967" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-05T11:40:19.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="515" CreationDate="2010-09-05T17:18:59.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly I've seen a variety of trikes on the roof of a fairly wide variety of cars - hmm, I've carried one on the roof of mine along with two recumbent bikes, so its perfectly possible to carry a trike on a car. The challenge - as it has always been with recumbents - is that you may not be able to do so with a single standard piece of kit. From memory wheels either side of a set of roof bars being quite a common solution (challenge being getting the thing up onto the roof in the first place). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that it rather depends on the trike - there are an ever increasing number of folding (well collapsible) trikes - the latest being HP Velotechnik's Scorpion FX which is picutured being loaded into the boot of a Smartcar here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hpvelotechnik.com/produkte/scorpionfx/index_e.html&quot;&gt;http://www.hpvelotechnik.com/produkte/scorpionfx/index_e.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly Hase have taken steps to make it easy to break a KettWiesel down for transport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hmm, here's the Challenge variation on the theme:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.challenge-recumbents.com/index.php?language=en&amp;amp;selection=trike-alize-en&quot;&gt;http://www.challenge-recumbents.com/index.php?language=en&amp;amp;selection=trike-alize-en&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with, guess what... a picture of the bike going into the back of a SmartCar - so clearly the solution to the problem is to buy the right car (-:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pragmatically, if you can find your way to an HPV club event (e.g those run by the BHPC in the UK) you'll be able to see and ask people who will have addressed this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-09-05T17:18:59.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2010-09-05T18:25:33.077" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode all year round in Toronto, Ontario, Canada for about 10 years.  What I found most useful was warm boots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wore &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/Apparel/MensFootwear/MensHuntingFootwear/PRD~0873282P/Men%252527s%252Band%252BBoys%252527%252BKamik%252BInsulated%252BRubber%252BBoot%25252C%252BGreen.jsp?locale=en&quot;&gt;winter boots&lt;/a&gt; like the ones shown.  Though that link is to the -40C version. I also used the -70C version.  Which in -35C weather (-31F) are actually quite comfy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that the ankles rotated without a problem, and I could ride in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In wet weather, tucking water proof pants over the tops of the boots made for a very comfortable ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-09-05T18:25:33.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-06T00:45:09.260" Score="9" ViewCount="1083" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any tips for bleeding Hayes brakes? I have some Hayes Stroker Ryders and bleeding them is less than fun compared to bleeding my Avids.  Do they make any syringes for bleeding the Hayes? I've watched videos put out by Hayes and read their documentation, so I'm looking for tips that you would learn from experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-06T02:19:46.253" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T20:32:01.437" Title="Tips for Bleeding Hayes Brakes" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;hayes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2010-09-06T02:40:19.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheapest ways to go faster are to get high pressure tires -120 or even 140 psi (8 to 10 bar) - and keep them at high pressure. For the highest pressure tires, this means pumping them up every time you ride. For 50 bucks (US) or so, you can't go wrong with this upgrade, because you can transfer them to a new bike if you if want to upgrade everything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping your chain well greased, and riding with the chain in the proper gears can also increase efficiency slightly, and at no cost. By 'proper gears', I mean that you lose some small amount of efficiency by, for example, having the chain in the large front chainring and the large back cog (you wouldn't normally ride like that, but this is for illustrative purposes), because the chain isn't 'straight'. I believe that improving 'Q-factor' is a similarly small increase in efficiency.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: additionally, if you haven't checked this already, take the cranks off and try to spin the bottom bracket spindle by hand. You may need to repack the bottom bracket (or buy a sealed cartridge BB. Can go for as little as US $20). Stickiness and crunchiness can be hard to detect when spinning the spindle with the cranks &lt;em&gt;on&lt;/em&gt; because the cranks add so much more leverage. You get a much better feel for the condition of your BB when spinning it by hand like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="311" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T00:46:58.157" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:46:58.157" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-06T02:45:44.330" Score="11" ViewCount="1310" Body="&lt;p&gt;Until recently, I had a late 80's Schwinn aluminum frame bike (now a thief has a 80's Schwinn aluminum frame bike, but that's another story). I had heard a number of horror stories about early aluminum frames--that the welds weren't properly done, or that the technology hadn't been perfected yet, that one should expect the frame to come apart any day, etc. I assume these kinds of rumors are being spread about carbon frames as well. Is there any hard evidence here? I know this is very hard to quantify because there were dozens of manufacturers, and there are/were lots of technologies being used. But is there any evidence, or is it just a cloud of Fear Uncertainty and Doubt? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="311" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T01:25:09.353" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T01:25:09.353" Title="non-steel frames and longevity" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2010-09-06T09:21:05.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know in BMX, aluminium frames are too soft.  I had a frame and it was designed for racing but I used it for dirt.  Did not take too long for the headset (was not setup loose) to ovalise due to it being not hard enough.  I did bodge this with shimmys from coke cans for awhile.&#xA;It's also not a wise idea to put pegs on an aluminium frame as it leads to bending the whole frame out of shape due to the force on the pegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T09:21:05.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="741" CreationDate="2010-09-06T09:23:47.107" Score="10" ViewCount="22131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was out on a ride yesterday and several times when I was changing up and down between big chain ring and little chain ring (I only have the 2 rings up front) it required 2 gear changes. The gears actually settled on an imaginary middle cog! How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T02:22:54.980" Title="How to fix front gear taking 2 shifts just to move onto next cog" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2010-09-06T11:03:59.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably down to the gear cables.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cables are new they may have stretched a little and you'll need to take the slack out by adjusting the tension, you usually do this with a barrel adjuster either at the shifter or inline in the shifter cable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cables have been on the bike for some time then the problem is probably sticky cables, water and dirt get inside the cable outers and stop the shifter pulling enough cable through.  from your description this seems the most likely option. You can try cleaning the cables but in my experience new cable inner and outers is the way to go.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T11:03:59.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="729" CreationDate="2010-09-06T11:21:00.110" Score="25" ViewCount="1136" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please post your safety tips for cycling/commuting that should help you get to your destination place in one piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came across a nice printed guideline a few years ago when working as courier, it was posted on the wall in the base and covered many common road situations. Recently I tried to look it up on the web but with no luck, so I thought that placing a community wiki question here could be beneficial for many commuters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2010-09-11T16:45:00.417" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T11:11:35.663" Title="Safety guidelines for cycling in traffic" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2010-09-06T11:29:24.893" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This answer is community wiki - please feel free to modify&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give it a good start here are some main points that I normally follow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;never take turns on the inside beside a turning car, and definitely not along a bus or truck - &lt;strong&gt;I believe that is the main cause of fatal accidents involving cyclists&lt;/strong&gt; - long vehicles cut the corners when turning and you may end up without any space left and no way to escape &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when passing parked cars or vehicles stopped in traffic try to maintain safe distance in case a car door is opened, if maintaining safe distance is impossible make sure that no door is going to be open in front of you; watch for people moving inside the cars, or simply slow down or stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when stopping at traffic light, move to the front of the traffic so the drivers can clearly see you (some cyclist friendly  junctions have dedicated space for bikes at front of the traffic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when approaching junctions move slightly to the middle of your traffic lane so if a car wants to overtake you it needs to change the lane, that way you will ensure that no car will suddenly pass you and tun in front of you. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when approaching junctions do not pass the vehicles on the inside - not all the drivers indicate turns, many do not see you, cars have blind spots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be extra careful when cycling in the rain, many drivers do not see you in normal conditions - with rain it becomes even worse, I believe that using High Visibility stuff in rain is a must (if you are also a driver I think you agree)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2010-10-15T19:06:46.887" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T19:06:46.887" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-06T11:29:24.893" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-09-06T13:19:19.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option to consider is a “&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schlumpf.ch/hsd_engl.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bottom bracket gear&lt;/a&gt;”, these do not come cheap but can increase your gear range by a factor of 2.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yoTpL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T13:19:19.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-06T13:37:49.083" Score="18" ViewCount="3700" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a good bike mount for the iPhone 4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seem to be a lot of reviews for the old models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I'm mounting this on a Trek 1.5 Triple with &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/09170&quot;&gt;Bontrager SSR VR bars&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I've heard horror stories about phones popping out of mounts so having it secure would be good, waterproofing is a plus as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="222" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T11:21:32.800" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T16:01:54.420" Title="iPhone 4 bike mount recommendations" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;iphone&gt;&lt;smartphone-mount&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2010-09-06T14:45:25.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that you have extra positions on the shifters to accommodate the chainline. I know my Sora group on my Trek has two lower positions. If I'm in the lowest position then my chain will rub slightly on the smallest cassette gear. I'll move it to the second position which doesn't shift it but removes the rub on the front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I shift up to the large chain ring from position two is goes fine. When shifting down I need to shift two positions to get it onto the small chain ring. The shifter is set for this and a full throw on it is two positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T14:45:25.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2010-09-06T15:25:22.583" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There also a book called &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0762727837&quot;&gt;The Art of Urban Cycling&lt;/a&gt;, in which the author focusses on bicycling safety amidst traffic in many different situations. I have not read it, so I'm not sure if it's any good, but it could be worth checking out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T15:25:22.583" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-06T15:25:22.583" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2010-09-06T16:13:03.673" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disadvantage: Environmentally irresponsible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that there is a lot of energy contained within, and required to make, that CO2 cartridge for a single tyre inflation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do carry one for emergencies 'in case of pump failure' but I try my best to never use it out of laziness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T17:52:22.960" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T17:52:22.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2010-09-06T17:26:31.853" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of cyclists promote &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicular_cycling&quot;&gt;vehicular cycling&lt;/a&gt; in which you act just like a car, obeying all of the rules of the road.  This includes respecting all stop signs &amp;amp; lights, travelling in the same direction on the same side of the road as motorized traffic, and using the full lane (taking the lane), often ignoring marked bike lanes if they are too small or marginalized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, vehicular cycling means acting like you belong on the road and that you have the legal right to be there (which you do).  I think a lot of bicycle accidents happen because the cyclist is trying to stay out of the way of cars and in doing so becomes very difficult for cars to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T17:26:31.853" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-06T17:26:31.853" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="735" CreationDate="2010-09-06T17:39:31.327" Score="4" ViewCount="1505" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the nice (and muddy!) weather coming up, I'd like to get some mudguards, but I'm really unsure of what will fit my bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_518229_langId_-1_categoryId_165499&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2009 Carrera Kraken&lt;/a&gt;, no modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will probably buy them from ebay since there are cheap ones on there, which fittings/style of mudguard are good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T23:21:04.227" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T23:21:04.227" Title="How do I know if mudguards will fit my 2009 Carrera Kraken?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="734" CreationDate="2010-09-06T18:08:18.157" Score="28" ViewCount="18490" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you fill your tire with a CO₂ cartridge you are obviously putting CO₂ into it. When you use a pump you are putting air into it. Are there significant temperature variations that may lead to poor or better performance when using one or the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if you fill a tube with CO₂ and another with air at same temperature and then the temperature rises 10°F, will one be more likely to explode than the other? What precautions must be taken when using one vs. the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="7375" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T22:25:17.840" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T23:54:57.333" Title="Is there a difference in having tires filled with CO₂ vs air?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;&lt;co2&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="731" CreationDate="2010-09-06T18:40:20.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never noticed a significant difference between the two. CO2 is great on a ride because using mini pumps, well, it just isn't fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T18:40:20.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="731" CreationDate="2010-09-06T18:52:36.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The air we breathe is made up of 78% nitrogen (N2) and 21% oxygen (O2), with trace gases making up the rest.  So the easiest comparison is between N2 and CO2.  N2 is less dense than CO2 but otherwise they're very similar (to your tires) unless you somehow find yourself riding in temperatures near their liquidation points -- in which case you have bigger things to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as pressure changes go, they should both follow the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law&quot;&gt;ideal gas law&lt;/a&gt; which states that the pressure in your tire has a direct relationship to the temperature of the gas inside it.  The density of the air molecules doesn't matter, just how many there are.  Whether its N2 or CO2, that relationship remains the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question, a 10degF change should affect the pressure of a CO2-filled tire about the same as an N2-filled tire.  I'm curious about the higher density though, that would mean that a CO2-filled tire will have more rotating mass... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T18:52:36.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="731" CreationDate="2010-09-06T19:28:33.380" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a debate that gets picked up on every bicycle forum known to man (okay, that might have been exaggerating a bit). Typically you start to ask the question when you notice that the morning after you have used your CO2 cartridge, your tyre is ridiculously low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By no means am I a chemist but, as it has been explained to me, CO2 and butyl are more soluble than N2/O2 and butyl. Most tubes are constructed from butyl (fancy pants cyclists will sometimes use Latex tubes, haha). Due to the increased solubility you can expect that a CO2 inflated tyre will need re-inflating sooner than one you pump up by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/may98/895552329.Ch.r.html&quot;&gt;http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/may98/895552329.Ch.r.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the explanation above is dealing w/ escape from balloons I am going to assume that we can take that information and apply it to our discussion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if i am incorrect (which I often am) please let me know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just noticed I didn't tackle the temperature issue. I do know that temperatures exceeding 50 degrees celcius (above 125 farenheit) can result in the potential for ... explosive fun, in regards to CO2 canisters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stayfill.com&quot;&gt;http://www.stayfill.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This company has a proprietary gas blend that won't leak from your tubes apparently ... ... ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="245" LastEditDate="2010-09-06T19:35:59.117" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T19:35:59.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="730" CreationDate="2010-09-06T19:41:38.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your bike I would probably recommend a 'moto style' front fender that uses an expansion fitting in the steerer tube to remain fixed in place. My reason being that it does not look like you have eyelets on that fork for easy full fender installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/06254&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bontrager.com/model/06254&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A seatpost clamp style rear fender is my recommendation. Again, it looks like a full fender set w/ struts would be difficult to mount to your bike (not impossible, just a little finicky) and quite frankly, it would look a wee bit weird to put a full fender on the rear and a moto style on the front. Just sayin'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/06255&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bontrager.com/model/06255&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T19:41:38.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2010-09-06T19:51:59.390" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I used to have 32 mile round trip commute, I used to keep a cache of clean clothes at work to change into. I'd refresh the clothes store every couple of weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not having to carry anything on my back, and wearing lycra gear meant that I minimised sweating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd wash my face and upper body whe I got in using the little sink in the toilet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did look a bit crumply, but happily I make software for a living and noone particularly minded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T19:51:59.390" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-06T19:51:59.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2010-09-06T20:19:06.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meritline.com/gps-cellphone-holder-for-bicycle---p-30668.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.meritline.com/gps-cellphone-holder-for-bicycle---p-30668.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its actually one of the cheapest available. It fits adjustable handlebar sizes, tho I don't know the range. The phone grips are foam based and you can get a very snug fit, and it clicks quickly out. I never had an issue with it popping out, it never even looked like it would.  Having said that, I used this mostly for urban cycling, and the occasional bumpy gravel track. If you plan to go bouncing down a mountain with this, get an answer from someone who's already done that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does feel 'cheap &amp;amp; plasticy', but it has served me well for over a year and has survived being left out on the bike in bad weather (the mount, not the phone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and its not waterproof. A ziplock bag would probably do the trick for that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T20:19:06.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2010-09-06T21:24:39.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a 1999 Specialized Allez Pro with an M4 aluminum frame. It's a great frame - light and extremely stiff. Apparently it's had some problems with cracks around the dropouts, but I've had zero problems with mine. I weigh 160 lbs FWIW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see others' opinions on this bike over at roadbikereview: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roadbikereview.com/mfr/specialized/older-road-bike/PRD_18545_1610crx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.roadbikereview.com/mfr/specialized/older-road-bike/PRD_18545_1610crx.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently it's a harsh ride, but it's been a long time since I rode my steel frame Miele with Columbus tubing in the 80's so I don't have a great basis for comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A carbon frame will be in my future sometime, but I'm spending my $$$ on stuff that will actually make me faster in the short term. My Computrainer arrives next week :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T21:24:39.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-09-06T21:35:50.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend getting a compact crank (50/34) since for the vast majority of mere mortals a 53/39 crank is too much gearing. It's a relatively cheap upgrade (about $300). I pair mine with a 12-27 9 speed cassette. Around here in Seattle, I find that there really aren't any hills I can't climb with the 34x27. For my weight (160lbs) that lets me climb pretty much anything around here, including some hills with a 17%+ grade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm finding that I could really use some additional gears so that I can pedal an optimal cadence. I suspect a 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25 is in my future someday when I can do 5 min climbs at 300W+. But that's a really expensive upgrade though since that involves swapping out my 9spd drivetrain for a 10spd one. That will happen when I get a new bike ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T21:35:50.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="751" CreationDate="2010-09-06T22:12:48.113" Score="8" ViewCount="4517" Body="&lt;p&gt;In thinking about building a road bike from scratch, what should I consider when choosing a frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be building from all new components and plan on just doing day rides of a few hours a piece, but perhaps few days touring.  I'm not really interested in racing at all—that's what cars are for :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T18:37:59.917" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T18:37:59.917" Title="What should I consider when choosing a bike frame?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2010-09-06T22:21:24.203" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Shimano integrated shifters (&quot;brifters&quot;) for the front derailleur on a triple normally have 5 indexed positions: 1-3-5 are the main positions that match the chainrings and 2-4 are intermediate spots to avoid chain rub for some chainring+sprocket combinations.  If you give the front shift lever a short pull it will click once and the front derailleur moves one position.  Give it a full pull and it should click twice, moving two positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally going up to a bigger ring requires a 2-click upshift;  sometimes you need to give it a one-click downshift afterwards to eliminate chain rub if you're in a larger rear cog.  Going down a ring may only take a 1-click downshift, depending on what position the derailleur is in.  All of this is based on my experience with a triple, but should work the same for a double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If shifting problems are more noticable going up to a bigger ring (needs more clicks than before) then this is probably due to cable stretch.  If you have a barrel adjuster on the front derailleur cable, try turning it counterclockwise (looking at it from the side where the cable housing enters it) to tension the cable a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is when dropping down to a smaller ring, then either the cables are sticking somewhere (worn cables/housing) or the front derailleur is sticking (needs lubrication or has a worn spring). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-06T22:21:24.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="740" CreationDate="2010-09-07T00:28:22.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should consider your goals, short and long term, prior to acquiring a frame. Are you planning on racing? And if so is it stage racing, crit racing etc.. Or perhaps you are looking at building from 1 or 2 hour rides to centuries etc.. You really want to make sure that you know what you are planning on doing (again, short and long term) so that you can choose a suitable geometry and frame material for your activities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should know the exact dimensions you are going to need to get the perfect fit. Road cycling is all about having a great fit and it doesn't matter if you bike is the lightest or most expensive ... if it doesn't fit then it isn't good for you. This can trickle on down to the components as well (set back seatpost, stem length and so on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in my mind, those are the two most important things to consider and typically I would go about it by planning out my goals and then choosing the geometry to meet those goals. Once you have the geometry (head tube angle, seat tube angle, wheelbase etc...) chosen based on goals you can fill in the rest based on getting the fit dialed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, from there, it is just a matter of how much you do or don't want to spend. Haha. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T00:28:22.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="744" CreationDate="2010-09-07T00:40:43.880" Score="32" ViewCount="9829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm moving to a city where I can ride a bicycle to the grocery store, coffee shop etc. I want to purchase a decent used bicycle. I'm leaning towards a bike that's in between a &quot;10-speed&quot; or road-bike and a mountain bike. &lt;strong&gt;What should I look for when choosing a particular bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never purchased a used bicycle. Other than classifieds (e.g., Craigslist), what types of places can I look? What other issues should I consider, such as size, visual appearance, leaking tires, etc.? How can I make sure it's not stolen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="324" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-30T03:44:47.243" LastActivityDate="2017-07-10T16:06:40.423" Title="What should I look for when buying a used bicycle?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2010-09-07T02:09:13.460" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my area, there is a shop called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recycled-cycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Recycled Cycles&lt;/a&gt;, where they buy old bikes, fix them up and resell them at a discount. When my wife and I last visited, they had quite a few vintage bikes for sale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also take a look at pawn shops, and if you live near a college/university, the campus police may hold a bike auction near the beginning of the school year. Our department collects abandoned bikes at the end of the spring semester and sell them the next calendar year (giving the owners time to come back and claim them). We usually have 60 or more bikes up for auction, ranging from rust buckets to almost brand new Treks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what to look for in a bike, take a look at the answers in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/612/purchasing-a-bike&quot;&gt;Purchasing a Bike&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T02:09:13.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="749" CreationDate="2010-09-07T05:06:01.430" Score="11" ViewCount="5502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having great difficulties getting a kevlar belted tire onto my rim (maybe I'm getting old).  I had heard about the Kool-Stop tire bead jack as a possible alternative to using just my tire levers. Has anyone used these things? Am I signing myself up for a pinch flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="311" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T20:29:58.243" Title="does a tire bead 'jack' work?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="289" CreationDate="2010-09-07T05:12:47.967" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have a 2009 Surly Long Haul Trucker with the same seat post and the same problem. I was able to tighten the single bolt enough to prevent the seat from sliding back. I'm also 100lbs lighter. I think the seat post is a terrible design and one of the cheaper parts that came with the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a Thompson Elite seat post on my mountain bike which has two bolts that prevent the slipping problem. It also has markings on the seat clamp so that you can put the seat back to it's known angle after taking it off and reinstalling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T05:12:47.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-07T05:23:29.793" Score="4" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1995 Schwinn Phantom beach cruiser with a coaster brake that I'd like to service. The coaster brake is staring to feel sloppy and hasn't been looked at in a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What tools will I need?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the steps to service it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T17:27:27.710" Title="How to service a 1995 Schwinn Phantom Coaster Brake hub?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="746" CreationDate="2010-09-07T06:00:11.723" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting tool.  I haven't used one but can sympathize after breaking many tire levers with my old tire+rim combination.  It's no fun being in the middle of nowhere and snapping a lever while fixing a flat.  I've since switched tires (and later the rims) and can now roll the tires over the rim by hand -- what a difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you plan on taking this tool with you on rides, you may want to look at tires that are easier to work with (if this one is new, you can probably exchange it at your LBS).  Otherwise a single flat could end your ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For beefy plastic levers, I'm now using a set of Pedro's.  They're about 3-4 times the size of the ones I had before and were strong enough to wrestle my bad old tires back onto the rim before I switched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid pinch getting flats while putting the tire back on, try putting a bit more air in the tube.  This will make it hug the inside of the tire instead of getting caught between the tire and the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T06:00:11.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="746" CreationDate="2010-09-07T06:39:29.590" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/546083&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quik Stik&lt;/a&gt; for about 17 years pretty successfully.  Not totally free of pinch flats, but I think using darkcanuck's technique of putting a bit of air in the tube first really helps.  Much better than regular tire levers, although it actually seems to be softening after all these years.  Rumor has it that certain brands of kevlar-beaded tires are a lot harder to mount safely (as in free of pinch flats), notably Vittoria, and that was my experience with them too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastEditorUserId="328" LastEditDate="2010-09-07T09:24:18.460" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T09:24:18.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="740" CreationDate="2010-09-07T06:54:05.983" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put together a bike from parts bought on eBay as well as locally, and it was very successful.  I was lucky enough to get a frame that fit me well; however, as it was a 1998 aluminum road racing frame (Cannondale CAAD 3), it is really, really stiff.  For riding just an hour or two that doesn't really matter so much, but longer rides are fatiguing due to the construction and materials.  Recently I rented a high-dollar Specialized Roubaix, and couldn't believe how much smoother the ride was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Materials&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminum:  stiffest there is&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Titanium:  reportedly a nice ride, but very pricey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steel:  high-dollar frames will be very nice, forgiving; cheap steel frames will feel like you are riding on plumbing pipe, dead and heavy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbon:  expensive, although coming down in price; smooth ride yet agile feeling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminum with Carbon fork and/or stays:  more carbon means more forgiving, smoother ride, more $$$&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Geometry&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road race bikes:  stiffer geometry, more responsive, more fatigue; definitely the most common on the market&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touring bikes:  more relaxed seat &amp;amp; head tube angles, longer wheelbase, room for fenders, eyelets for mounting racks; harder to find&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triathon/Time Trial bikes:  DO NOT GET unless you truly plan to do a tri-  very upright geometry based on leaning forward onto TT bars, harder riding (unless you spend lot$ on carbon components)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much you plan to spend, it may be worth it to pay about $60 to get a professional bike fitting.  The right fitter will find out about you, your goals, and your flexibilty to come up with the right shape for you.  If you have spent a lot of your recent years at a desk you may not have the flexibility to lean as much as the average frame wants you to do.  Also, different brands may fit you better or worse.  When Lemond bikes first came out, they seemed to fit people best who had longer torsos or lots of flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T06:54:05.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="718" CreationDate="2010-09-07T06:55:25.247" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride aluminum frames almost exclusively and have had no problem with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The welds are what tend to break first on most bike you hear these horror stories about, but this can happen with any sort of weld (though some forms of welding are more effective than others), so if a bike seems to be too good of a deal to have an aluminum frame, make sure to check out the welds, for those could very well be the deal breaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="329" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T06:55:25.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2010-09-07T07:14:13.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some tidbits that have kept me safe over the years:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn to glance over your shoulder (BOTH of them) without veering off a straight line. I've seen a lot of people glance over their shoulder for one reason or another and get into trouble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be able to hold your line while pedaling. What I mean is when your are pedaling (especially up a hill or something like that), don't slightly swerve back and forth. This tends to scare drivers, and you don't want scared drivers passing you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use active lights at night (front and rear). Those passive reflector only work at a few angles. Reflective jackets work, too, but blinkies can be seen from a long way off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't be afraid to take the lane, but make sure you glance over your should before you do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concentrate on what is in front of you rather than what is behind. Every time I've seen a car on bike accident it has been because the biker was not looking ahead. People driving are usually paying more attention to the road (one would hope). Most of the accidents I have seen are doorings (google it) and cars pullout out of spots. The tricks for those are watching the mirrors of the cars for faces and the wheels for any movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your bike completely before you ride. This involves the brakes (they should both be able to take your full body weight by leaning against them, so to speak), the tires (low air pressure makes handling strange and sometimes unpredictable), and the drivetrain (is it clean and properly lubed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get used to getting out of the saddles to maneuver.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn to stop your bike as quickly as possible from faster and faster speeds. This involves getting out of the saddle. Make sure to adjust your stopping distance (i.e. how far you look ahead) to a much larger distance when conditions are wet (if you ride in those conditions).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always wear your helment.....every time.....no exceptions! This is because the human brain has the same consistency as tofu.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When considering whether or not to do something illegal (run a stop sign, for instance), ask yourself is the few minutes you'll save potentially worth your life. This is one rule I don't follow very well because I'm overconfident a lot of the time, but I'm trying to change that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time you'll probably develop more intuition than can reasonably be explained here, mostly because it has very much to do with where you are riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="329" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T07:14:13.017" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-07T07:14:13.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2010-09-07T07:19:29.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as avoiding stolen bikes:  I would use definitely use Craigslist, but just make sure the seller purports to be the owner (not &quot;I'm selling it for a friend&quot;--what, your friend doesn't have a phone to answer questions?  Out of town working for the CIA?  Mmm-hmmm...), and has knowledge of the bike.  Like, be able to tell you what the frame size is without looking at the bike.  Also, they should have an understandable reason for selling.  You have to use some judgment there of course.  Maybe ask them how they used it in the past.  If you get &quot;I don't know anything about it 'cuz...&quot; walk away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T07:19:29.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-07T07:19:54.067" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you gain more experience in biking, you will learn to rely on your hearing as a fairly important input in your ability to make decisions. This applies to various disciplines of biking in the following ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Urban: Cars starting up, parked cars cars with engine running, cars you can't yet see roaring up driveways or out of parking garages, and certain vehicles approaching from the rear to which you usually yield more room (buses, semis, etc.) are all things that you will be &quot;blind&quot; to if you are rockin' the tunes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road: Similar to urban, but not quite as stringent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain: Hearing only helps if you are on the same trail as motor vehicles, especially if they are going fast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, biking is a way to get away from all that stuff, so why not try that for a change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="329" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T07:19:54.067" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-07T07:19:54.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2010-09-07T07:26:18.737" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My top tip - as you approach junction, if there are drivers waiting to turn into or across your lane, watch their eyes. You should be able to tell if they see you, or if they are scanning only for large objects (i.e. other cars). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a related &lt;a href=&quot;http://boingboing.net/2008/03/27/brilliant-cycling-aw.html&quot;&gt;awareness video&lt;/a&gt; which shows why its easy for people to not see cyclists if they are concentrating on other objects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="288" LastEditDate="2010-09-07T15:46:19.117" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T15:46:19.117" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-07T07:26:18.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-09-07T07:29:48.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have a triple you already have about as wide a range as you can get on the front (for practical purposes).  Before changing the rear you would want to make sure your derailleurs can handle the increased range of teeth.  If you go to the manufacturers' websites (I'm guessing....Shimano?) you can look up the tooth capacity of those components.  If they will handle it, then you might be able to get a wider rear cassette that helps you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T07:29:48.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2010-09-07T09:36:04.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to avoid a stolen bike, however here are some tips &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask them for the frame number before you go to view the bike, and then check with the police if it has been reported stolen.  (Check the frame number when you view the bike) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tell them you will wish to take a photo of them and check IDs before parting with cash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arrange to meet them in their house and note their address, if this is hard you could view the bike the first time elsewere, &lt;strong&gt;but you must view it in their house before buying it&lt;/strong&gt;  (Not just outside their claimed home).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a photo of the person selling you the bike&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One that is a close up of their face&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another that shows them with the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check their ID (passport or driver's license in the UK) and take a copy of the ID.  If it’s a passport of a county other than your own, be very carefully, as do you know what the password should look like?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask to see a bill or bank statement that shows their name and the above address, take a copy if possible.  (The copy only has to show the top of the statement and does not have to include any transactions.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you are have still have doubts about their ID&lt;/strong&gt;, you could ask them to show you a cash card that has their name on it, then ask them to take to you a ATM and (without you looking at them typing in the PIN) prove that they know the PIN for the card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By this point, anyone selling a stolen bike; will decide you are not the best customer for them!  &lt;strong&gt;If you think the bike is stolen, tell the police.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-08-30T15:59:05.800" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T15:59:05.800" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="730" CreationDate="2010-09-07T12:25:16.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it is worth paying the higher price at a local bike shop to get good advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any reasonable bike shop will be able to look at your bike and tell you what will fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The change for fitting is also likely to be low, and getting the shop to do the fitting removes the risk of them claiming they do fit, and you saying they don’t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T12:25:16.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="775" CreationDate="2010-09-07T14:16:13.067" Score="14" ViewCount="3613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to train with a  stopwatch, and later on, heart-rate. Both required relatively inexpensive tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm interested in training with power (measuring the watts produced) and I'm finding that the tools are at least an order-of-magnitude more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping the ANT+ standard would drive down prices a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T09:05:15.350" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T14:08:22.347" Title="What's the cheapest way to get into training with power?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="765" CreationDate="2010-09-07T14:58:07.190" Score="27" ViewCount="4267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for panniers. I mostly just potter around town, and am not planning any cycle touring so my main criteria is that the panniers should be easy to carry around off the bike. Built in rucksack straps or a shoulder/cross-body strap would be good. Just a carry handle would not be enough for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="335" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T21:53:26.490" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T19:27:29.163" Title="Recommendation for panniers used off the bike a lot" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-07T15:15:12.573" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is illegal to wear headphones while riding in some locations.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cbs8.com/Global/story.asp?s=9513516&amp;amp;clienttype=printable&quot;&gt;Such as here.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;But not &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mybikeadvocate.com/2009/11/headphones-are-legal-but-not-smart.html&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; (although I think it is illegal to wear them on Chicago's lakefront path, but I can't find the reference. Might be wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a post &lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080714132508AAaaz7v&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that makes the point that many localities apply the same laws to driving as cycling (I can't comment on the truth of that). So that might be a consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legal or not people will do it anyway. And now &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engadget.com/2010/09/22/iphone-awareness-app-selectively-filters-outside-noises-into-yo/&quot;&gt;there's an app for that&lt;/a&gt;. The app says it will set a threshold of noise based on the ambient environmental noise and then pass anything above that threshold into your headphones. I don't listen to music while I cycle (not that I'm judging) but I might get this anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastEditorUserId="9" LastEditDate="2010-09-22T10:53:38.103" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T10:53:38.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="746" CreationDate="2010-09-07T15:45:52.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the few problem tires that I've dealt with, I find that they always get easier to mount after successive changes due to the beads stretching. I haven't tried stretching a bead in advance before, but you might be able to do it by hooking the tire under your foot, pull upward, rotate tire, repeat. It only needs to stretch a bit before it will mount, so don't kill yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T15:45:52.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-09-07T16:05:08.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/us/all-categories/laptop-bicycle-pannier/bug-cummuting-bag-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkel Bug&lt;/a&gt;, which works as a backpack. Quite modern, sporty look.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.co.uk/black-downtown.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ortlieb Downtown&lt;/a&gt;, which has a comfortable shoulder strap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might check other products of those two producers, if you need a bigger/smaller cargo capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these panniers are very easy to attach to your bike. Perfect for your daily commuting needs and running errands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-24T21:31:33.880" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:31:33.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="761" CreationDate="2010-09-07T16:12:49.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The expense is usually due to the physical hardware needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhere along the way some device needs to measure the power output. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well inside the hub seems like the most common version.  Thus you need a wheel build around a 'heavier' hub to get this to work, and thus is never cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polar had a power sensor I never could figure out how it worked, but it had an external sensor along the drive train side back stay.  It supposedly watched the chain tension, on top of cadence and wheel speed to calculate power.  But that silly sensor was close to $500 or more at the time I looked at it.   Still seemed like Voodoo to me, personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend relied on it, and thought it was pretty good and accurate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ANT+ is just a data transport protocol, which makes the send/receive module cheaper and more common, but for power, the rest of the sensor is the expensive part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T16:12:49.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2010-09-07T17:27:49.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one is pretty good: &lt;em&gt;T&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1579548830&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;he Bicycling guide to complete bicycle maintenance &amp;amp; repair : for road &amp;amp; mountain bikes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; / Todd Downs. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/160529487X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;6th edition out soon)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally have Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance as mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-12T16:29:07.280" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T16:29:07.280" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-07T17:27:49.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-09-07T20:48:33.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Altura-Arran-46-Pannier-Bags_15706.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Altura pannier&lt;/a&gt; (or both if I'm caring a lot and need the full 46 capacity), and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails.asp?productID=20938&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;detachable shoulder strap&lt;/a&gt; that I keep in the top pocket of the pannier. It's on the bike most of the time, but when I need to take it off and carry it round the strap is always there handy, and the rixen &amp;amp; kaul fittings make the pannier easy to attach/detach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not quite as comfortable as a dedicated over-the-shoulder-bag (sometimes the pannier clips can get in the way as I'm walking about), but it's definitely good enough for what I need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2010-09-10T12:37:39.860" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T12:37:39.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-07T21:50:36.653" Score="16" ViewCount="2067" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts - my spare tube that I carry in my bag currently has a dozen or so patches on it, but still works fine. I'm tempted to keep going to see how many I can get on there until it get impossible to mend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the most number of patches you reckon a tube can take ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And I know new inner tubes are only £5 or so, but a puncture repair costs about 10p if you buy the patches and glue in bulk, so &quot;It's cheaper to buy a new one&quot; is not necessarily true...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="340" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T00:36:22.060" Title="What is the maximum number of pucture repairs an inner tube can take?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2010-09-07T22:05:23.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eye Contact is a very good way of making sure drivers have seen you - particularly for cars waiting to pull out of side junctions or at roundabouts.  When coupled with a friendly nod once you're passing them (almost as if to thank them for waiting) you'll find that many of them will then give you a proper amount of space if they need to pass you afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="340" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T22:05:23.163" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-07T22:05:23.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="770" CreationDate="2010-09-07T22:27:30.887" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the patches start to overlap, or you are fixing old patches that have failed, it is time to get a new tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T22:27:30.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="770" CreationDate="2010-09-07T23:54:03.323" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find the bigger problem is not the number of patches, but rather the age of the patches.  There is a correlation though, in that by the time you have patched a tube for the third time, I find that the first patch is starting to get a little suspect.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In my student days I would patch a tube four or five times, but I often had patches eventually fail.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Nowadays I draw the line at two.  Tubes are just too cheap to have one fail on you in the middle of a ride.  The time and inconvenience of having to change a tube that has failed is not worth the money, especially since it always seems to happen on wet windy nights!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-09-07T23:54:03.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="770" CreationDate="2010-09-08T00:36:22.060" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would carry at least one unpatched, pristine tube as a spare.  Put the patched ones on the bike or keep for repairs at home.  The idea being that when you need it -- in the middle of nowhere, in the dark and pouring rain -- you're guaranteed that the old patches aren't peeling off or weakened and the tube should &quot;just work&quot;.  Then swap it for a patched tube when you get home if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T00:36:22.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="761" CreationDate="2010-09-08T02:21:52.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The older wired Powertap hubs go for pretty cheap on ebay. Here's a listing for $399 for a complete wheel with a Mavic open pro rim:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.com/Cycleops-PowerTap-PRO-Rear-Wheel-Mavic-Open-Pro-700c-/310247397790?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item483c2f999e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cgi.ebay.com/Cycleops-PowerTap-PRO-Rear-Wheel-Mavic-Open-Pro-700c-/310247397790?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item483c2f999e&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll still need to find a wired Saris head unit though, and it won't work with the fancier new head units like the Garmin Edge 500, but that's pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T02:21:52.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2010-09-08T06:54:21.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://connect.garmin.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://connect.garmin.com&lt;/a&gt;, and click on the &quot;Explore&quot; link. Type in the region that you're interested in, and you'll see bike routes that others have ridden on. It's a great way to find new routes and there's very detailed GPS data (and elevation profiles!) available for each one of those routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of routes that I found for my vacation in Seaside, OR earlier this year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHgQs.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T06:54:21.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="761" CreationDate="2010-09-08T09:06:43.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're expensive because they use highly-sensitive strain gauges and require careful calibration. A lot of design has to go into working out how to overcome external factors like temperature changes while at the same time producing a light and weatherproof system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have experience with Powertap systems. The cheapest is probably a Powertap Elite+ (£540, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclepowermeters.com/powertap-elite-hub-only-465-p.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cyclepowermeters.com&lt;/a&gt;) hub built into a cheap, workmanlike rim (Open Pro, £100?) and coupled with a Garmin Edge 500 computer (£145, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.handtec.co.uk/product.php?xProd=2336&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Handtec&lt;/a&gt;). The Elite+ is heavy but has a stiff steel axle and is ANT+ compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second-hand systems might be cheaper but watch out -- they can be expensive to repair if dodgy. Common Powertap problems are duff bearings, miscalibration or broken torque tubes (expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various indirect systems like the Polar (mentioned in another answer) or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ibikesports.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iBike&lt;/a&gt;, which works out power from rolling resistance (friction, wind, gradient) and rider weight. They say it works fine; I've never tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T09:06:43.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2010-09-08T10:00:07.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.opencyclemap.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OpenCycleMap&lt;/a&gt;, based on OpenStreetMap, is another resource you might consider. It uses a &lt;a href=&quot;http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike&lt;/a&gt; license, which is why many of the mobile applications actually use the OpenCycleMap data. Anyone can register and contribute to OpenCycleMap, so in that sense it is like Wikipedia, in that it is often more up-to-date. Just looking at OpenCycleMap is much easier than a Google Map for instance, because the cycle routes are clearly marked.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skobbler.us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.skobbler.us&lt;/a&gt; is useful as an app on a smart phone. It does not only provide car routes but also for bike and pedestrian. But both are basically maps, not so much suggestions where to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="345" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T03:52:11.660" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T03:52:11.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="236" CreationDate="2010-09-08T12:06:52.220" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For frequent use, I think it is hard to beat a lock that is built into the bike, e.g. the &lt;a href=&quot;http://austinontwowheels.org/2008/08/06/review-axa-defender-rear-wheel-lock/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Axa Defender&lt;/a&gt; that is fixed to the fame of the bike and then locks the wheel; it also has a cable that you can use to lock the bike to the bake stand.  It’s great for a lock on a “everyday” bike, as you can’t forget to take it with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BjXdP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of bike lock&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YJoV3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T12:06:52.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="788" CreationDate="2010-09-08T14:44:02.710" Score="14" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard rumors that (excessive) stretching can hurt cycling performance. Specifically, stretching one's hamstrings and/or quadriceps supposedly reduces sprinting power. Is there any factual basis for the claim that increased flexibility leads to less power?  I would also be interested in evidence for the opposite: that loosening one's muscles leads to an increase in cycling performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, I am &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; referring to over-stretching related injuries (like a strain), but rather to the results of long-term, correctly-practiced stretching that leads to increased flexibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T03:56:30.937" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T12:59:41.223" Title="Will stretching make me slower?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2010-09-08T15:01:53.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cities also have a Google Maps layer for bike routes. When punching in source and destination address, there will be a little bike icon if it's available. Haven't tried it out, so have no idea how accurate it is, but it might be worth a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T15:01:53.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33" CreationDate="2010-09-08T15:03:30.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a creaking sound that I couldn't locate - thought a pedal was loose or something. Turns out it was the bottom bracket failing. It eventually cracked through, and I had a fun ride home before I could replace it. Not sure if there's a simple way to check that, without pulling the cranks off and looking...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T15:03:30.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="781" CreationDate="2010-09-08T16:00:19.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few answers and links on a different SE site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://answersonfitness.stackexchange.com/questions/744/which-is-more-important-stretching-before-or-stretching-after-exercising&quot;&gt;http://answersonfitness.stackexchange.com/questions/744/which-is-more-important-stretching-before-or-stretching-after-exercising&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that stretching immediately before exercise can reduce performance, but a long-term strategy of stretching (after warm-up) is beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T16:00:19.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33" CreationDate="2010-09-08T16:57:11.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;creaking is often also attributable to loose cranks. you'll want to check this sooner rather than later, because loose cranks will round your bottom bracket spindle, and the problem will get worse faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="311" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T16:57:11.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="170" CreationDate="2010-09-08T17:21:51.793" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to lifehacker end of January or February:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KQDO0.jpgBlockquote&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lifehacker.com/5440376/the-best-times-to-buy-anything-all-year-round&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://lifehacker.com/5440376/the-best-times-to-buy-anything-all-year-round&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bicycles and outdoor gear&#xA;&quot;If you want the newest stuff, the time to look is in February and March, when the season's models come out. The stores start replacing fall and winter stuff with spring and summer models, and that's true for most all outdoor gear from shoes to bikes, hiking gear, everything,&quot; says Dennis Lewon, senior editor for Outside magazine.&#xA;Some companies will send out special holiday items that will land in the discount section after the season. &quot;In general, most of the new products come to stores in February,&quot; Lewon says. &quot;January is good for looking for the old models in the classic post-holiday shopping period.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="169" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T17:21:51.793" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="781" CreationDate="2010-09-08T17:26:44.793" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The subject of stretching is controversial and there is ongoing debate within the scientific community. There is actually no absolute answer until there is further research. Here is what current and on-going research indicates as to the question, &quot;Is there any factual basis for the claim that increased flexibility leads to less power?&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stretching and obtaining flexibility beyond your sport specific optimal range of motion is likely to decrease performance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stretching to optimize range of motion is beneficial, if tight muscles are the cause of sub-optimal range of motion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stretching may be necessary for individual cyclists in order to optimize aerodynamic positioning and/or to enhance riding comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stretching to prevent injury is not shown to be beneficial. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The timing of static stretching is shown to influence muscle power and therefore performance. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The benefits and drawbacks of stretching are sport specific.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Benefits of dynamic stretching/warm-up routines are inconclusive at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More interesting studies from PubMed searches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15495679&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;Overall, the evidence suggests that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;increasing range of motion beyond function&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; through stretching is not beneficial and can actually cause injury and decrease performance.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16130528&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;And another&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;...for sports with slow stretch-shortening cycle such as jogging or cycling, there is no scientific data showing a positive effect of stretching.&quot; However, &lt;em&gt;negative&lt;/em&gt; effects are not showing up other than where one is increasing range of motion beyond what is necessary for a specific sport. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some searching on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/advanced&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PubMed&lt;/a&gt; and other biomedical databases, using the search terms: flexibility, stretching, cycling performance, muscle power, etc, in various combinations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are no research papers coming up in searches that say a regular stretching program reduces sprinting power.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is research saying that the timing of static stretching influences muscle power. See below.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is also research saying that cycling performance can be enhanced by a flexibility program in cases where flexibility improves range-of-motion and/or cycling position. Such as time trials.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a cycling and fitness enthusiast I feel compelled to figure this out. Since my last revision I found a recent, well documented book on the subject of stretching. The book is '&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1569757267&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dynamic Stretching&lt;/a&gt;' by Mark Kovacs, Phd. (The Phd is in exercise physiology).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gist is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pre-event static stretching&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - Research shows that it can decrease performance in strength, speed and power activities. Some studies have shown decreases in performance by as much as 30%. (Pre-event meaning within 60 minutes of the event)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Static stretching as part of an ongoing training program&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - Improves range of motion and flexibility in the major muscles and joints of the body. Does not influence strength, speed or power except as to enhancing range of motion. However, there are performance benefits depending on the specialty of the competitive cyclist. For example, a time trialist needs to achieve and maintain an optimal aero position; a cyclocross competitor needs to get on and off the bike a lot; individual sprinters may need to improve range of motion, etc, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whew! A huge amount of misinformation and mythology on stretching is available. The book cited is focused on dynamic stretching, however the sections on the science of flexibility are well documented from numerous scholarly sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-29T20:45:08.117" LastActivityDate="2010-09-29T20:45:08.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2010-09-08T17:43:01.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ride with GPS&lt;/a&gt; is my current fave and keeps getting better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the features:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw routes on a map before you ride, then download to your GPS unit for turn-by-turn directions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See elevation profile as you draw, so you know how difficult the ride will be before you head out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No sign-up required, no GPS required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my area there are a lot of user contributed routes, but may not be the case everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-10T22:56:30.380" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T22:56:30.380" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="812" CreationDate="2010-09-08T19:23:54.880" Score="12" ViewCount="5078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Giant VT3 with dual suspension and I'm thinking of using it as a winter bike is there any special care I should take before heading out into the cold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="348" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2010-09-09T04:10:26.547" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T16:53:35.810" Title="Is it safe to ride a dual suspension bike in sub freezing temps?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="799" CreationDate="2010-09-08T19:36:52.897" Score="9" ViewCount="6241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded my rear-mech with a new cassette, chain and new cables a few weeks ago since then i've mangled two rear mechs!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both times I've just been riding along; not in a big gear; not at the extremes of the cassette, the mech just seems to get caught on something (the chain?) and bends and snaps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got to buy a 3rd mech and I'm wondering why it's happening, is it just bad luck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mech I replaced (an ageing XTR) I'd had for years without any miss-hap but now I've mangled two XT mechs, one was a Shadow and the one prior to that was a standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any sugggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2020-01-25T10:39:53.163" Title="Why does my rear derailleur keep breaking?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2010-09-08T20:39:47.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Familiarize yourself with bicycle laws where you live and ride. In the US many (most? all?) states require cyclists to adhere to the same set of rules that apply to motor vehicles when riding a bicycle on public roads. Some additional rights and responsibilities may also exist depending on where you live (for instance, where I live cyclists are allowed to pass on the right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, once you know what the rules of the road are, follow them! The other day I was in the city and a woman on a bicycle passed me driving &lt;em&gt;the wrong way&lt;/em&gt; on a one-way street. If you get into an accident doing something like that, most likely &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; will be liable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="146" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T20:39:47.450" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-08T20:39:47.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2010-09-08T21:06:21.313" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this is purely anecdotal, I know from my own experience mountain biking that most of my flats were from so-called &quot;pinch flats&quot; (where the tube is pierced by pinching or friction with the tire/rim rather than piercing by an external object). This was highly annoying. After having switched to tubeless some years ago, I've not yet had a single flat. And, obviously, without a tube to get pinched, there's no way to get a &quot;pinch flat&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="146" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T21:06:21.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="463" CreationDate="2010-09-08T21:11:49.403" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best ways to build up to longer rides is through interval training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best book I've found on the subject is: &lt;em&gt;The Time-Crunched Cyclist: Fit, Fast, and Powerful in 6 Hours a Week&lt;/em&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Carmichael_%28cyclist%29&quot;&gt;Chris Carmichae&lt;/a&gt;l. The book includes a lot of info on lactate threshold, energy metabolism, nutrition, race and century training plans, etc. I first tried out his methods after reading one of his articles in &lt;em&gt;Bicycling&lt;/em&gt; on century training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, Carmichael's methods are a form of interval training where you are doing things like hill-repeats, power intervals, fast pace intervals, etc. There's a lot of info out there on interval training. One of the more common is called HIIT (High Intensity Interval Training). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW - I've made interval training my primary method of training for long distance training. I did 3 centuries this summer and never did a training ride over 60 miles. Prior to 4 years ago, my mode of training for long distance was a gradual distance build-up and had mixed results. With interval training, my performance on long distance rides has improved significantly in both speed and how I feel afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;What other strength/flexibility exercises will help? (yoga, back/shoulder exercises, etc.)&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upper back and neck can be a real problem on long rides. For this I use a regimen that I got from T-Nation called &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/sports_body_training_performance/deconstructing_computer_guy&quot;&gt;Deconstructing the Computer Guy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. I've found that the exercises to alleviate insufficiencies related to sitting at a computer all day, also translate quite well to cycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Revisiting...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm between projects at the moment so thought I'd add to this a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked what other aerobic exercises are best. Probably the best is something that you have accessible and will actually do. Swimming, running, walking, rowing, elliptical machines, etc are all good aerobic exercises, but you actually have to like it enough to be regular about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For strength and flexibility there are plenty of options. Yoga is one; as well as things like martial arts, tai chi, etc. For strength, weight training is fine; but not a &quot;body builder&quot; type program. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You specifically mentioned that you are having issues with shoulders, back and arms on your increasing distance. I mentioned an article from T-Nation above that has some great techniques for alleviating these kind of issues. (I must note that T-Nation is a rather obnoxious web site, but the advice I referenced is quite good.) For myself, I had postural and muscular imbalance problems due to cycling and too much time at the computer; and found a lot of relief in following a program very similar to the one described in Deconstructing the Computer Guy. (Four years ago I was on a century and could barely turn my head in the last 30 miles due to neck/upper back pain.) It definitely worked for me and my cycling buddy as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-15T23:30:25.310" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T23:30:25.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="356" CreationDate="2010-09-08T23:12:59.407" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing you should do is read the tech sheet on your fork. I believe the link below is the correct one.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/CMS/Technology/10_HeadShok_Tech_Pages_CUSA.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.cannondale.com/CMS/Technology/10_HeadShok_Tech_Pages_CUSA.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a bunch of manuals here but I didn't see one for the DLR Ti.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaeng/Instructions&quot;&gt;http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaeng/Instructions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as a rebuild goes it will be similar to rebuilding any fork with oil in it you'll only have one leg though. I found an illustrated tear down which might help you with the decision or whether this is for you or not.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=221683&quot;&gt;http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=221683&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big question is, should you do this yourself. I do all my own maintenance, build wheels and the only thing I don't touch is forks. Most home users just don't have the facilities to really do this easily. If you have a nice shop stand setup and are mechanically inclined then go for it. I know I would if I had the space but I don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T23:12:59.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2010-09-08T23:15:24.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're running oil in the forks then you might want to look at switching out for something that's meant for the colder temps but other than that I think it should be fine. The biggest thing I'd worry about is the salt/sand on the bike. Rinse it off after every ride with some water and store it where it can dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-08T23:15:24.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="236" CreationDate="2010-09-09T02:08:08.220" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A trick that couriers use around my area is to carry the key on a rubber band around their wrist - no more fumbling around in the pockets for a key. I find that a lock that you can wear across your chest like a bandolier is most convenient for carrying around. There are a number of chain locks around in this length that have a plastic tube over the chain to prevent scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T02:08:08.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2010-09-09T02:15:37.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the cranks are loose on the spindle - hence the creak every pedal stroke / 180 degrees. If the cranks have been loose for a while, then the action of riding the bike will have usually rounded either the square taper on the spindle, or the hole on the cranks. If this has happened, then you will never be able to tighten that set of cranks up tight enought to remove the creak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your choices end up being either putting up with the creak (and having to tighten the cranks up every week or two) or replacing the cranks and possibly the bottom bracket. If you do replace the cranks, make sure that you grease the tapers on the bottom bracket spindle prior to installing the cranks. This will ensure that the cranks do not bind prematurely, preventing you from properly tightening the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T02:15:37.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="791" CreationDate="2010-09-09T04:04:01.083" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you change the chain after the first derailleur broke?  If the same chain was on and you're positive the derailleur didn't connect with the spokes, then the chain is a likely culprit.  Another thing to watch out for is loose pannier straps (or anything else that could get caught in the chain and take out the derailleur).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T04:04:01.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16" CreationDate="2010-09-09T04:10:50.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The factories that make these bikes are mostly in China and Taiwan, I've been told (by my boss when I worked in a bicycle shop). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going there, maybe you can find a nearby retail outlet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T04:10:50.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1027" CreationDate="2010-09-09T04:28:10.533" Score="14" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that this is a 'bi'cycle forum, but I'm going to chance it and ask for unicycle buying advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for when buying a unicycle? I probably will do some leisure riding with it, maybe ride it around NYC instead of walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T21:53:08.050" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T21:53:08.050" Title="Unicycle recommendation" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;unicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-12-16T16:33:02.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="695" CreationDate="2010-09-09T04:29:16.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two links for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you can by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442420071&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302693791&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Ice Spiker tires&lt;/a&gt; at MEC in Canada (The reviews are quite favorable).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/tires.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;different studded tires&lt;/a&gt; on the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T04:29:16.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-09T04:31:34.773" Score="7" ViewCount="2359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very cheap (less than USD $100), new mountain bike I'm about to break in on a 2-4 hour ride on a mountain trail. I'd like to be prepared for equipment failures or problems - can anyone suggest &lt;strong&gt;what's most likely to break (or have problems) first?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have a spare inner tube (and pump!) to handle a punctures, and expect to have a sore rear end, anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(thanks for the articles warning about cheap bikes - I should probably add that I will use this bike only once a year at most, and can't afford a better one anyway - if not for cheap bikes I'd just be walking. For anyone coming across this question considering buying a very cheap bike, see the link posted in the comments and make sure you know what you're getting into!)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thanks for the answers so far. Thought I'd do a quick post-mortem for anyone interested. I went on the ride (Oaks fire trail, very scenic, good fun - Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to escape without notable failures on the bike, though I think the cheap suspension fork had already seized up and the derailleur only changed gears when in the right mood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our group of 15, we had 3 flat tyres and a broken chain (all on $1000+ bikes, oddly enough - maybe they were just riding them harder). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most unexpected problem was with replacing punctured tubes on the expensive bikes. The tube valve hole in the fancy rims wouldn't fit the spare tube's  larger (standard car size) valve, and many pumps couldn't fit the fancy tubes (to re-inflate them once patched).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T21:50:21.423" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T23:18:08.780" Title="New, cheap mountain bike: What's most likely to break?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="803" CreationDate="2010-09-09T07:14:54.137" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Information about the specific components would help. I am not sure what will break first, but the derailleurs will probably be the first component to need servicing - especially if you purchased this bike from a sporting goods retailer instead of a bike shop. Brakes will probably be needing some love in the near future. If you ride on trails at all the fork will probably end up needing some maintenance quickly. The wheels will also probably go out of true pretty quickly as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you can do to help keep the bike in good running order is to frequently put chain lube on your chain to keep it, your derailleurs, and cassette well lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T07:14:54.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="803" CreationDate="2010-09-09T12:27:49.240" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheap “mountain” bikes are not up to mountain tracks! If you would not consider walking along the track in a pair of sandals, then the bike will likely break very soon if you use it on the track. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However cheap “mountain” bikes are good on roads that have some pot holes and are easier for most people to ride then a road bike (but a lot slower).  They also allow you go along tracks that have some mud or a few rough spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are nice to your bike, and don’t expect it to cope with any hard of road usage, I would not expect anything to break quickly.   However you will have to adjust your derailleur and brakes, trim your wheels and tighten up loose bolts and nuts a lot more often than on a quality bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may well find the first think to break is your will to put up with a cheap bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="3104" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T23:18:08.780" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T23:18:08.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="781" CreationDate="2010-09-09T12:50:32.710" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be anecdotal Mark Cavendish has been known to be distinctly suspicious of stretching because he believes that the tightness of his muscles assists in his ability to sprint. Not at all based on science or anything besides the 'what I am doing is working, so why change it?' mentality. But who are we to argue that? The results speak for themselves!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The debate is on going in terms of the benefits of stretching and performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that it has been rather settled that cold stretching, prior to exercise, is at most detrimental to performance and at least pointless. A proper warm up where you cycle (literally I guess) through your various 'systems' is a generally accepted practice. See: protour cyclists before a time trial warming up on trainers, cyclocross racers prior to the race warming up on trainers (especially when we get to december/january/february racing) and so on and so forth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A warmup that I find useful: pedal easy for 5 mins w/ power at 60% or lower of LT, 3 x 1 min fast pedals (focusing on technique, low power and high cadence) w/ 1 min recovery btw each, ride at an easy endurance pace for 5 minutes and then finish w/ a 5 minute 'blowout' (5 mins starting below LT, meeting LT at 1 min. point and then riding at VO2 max for last 30 seconds). Then you can get into the hard work. I typically do that type of warm up prior to threshold intervals etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of stretching after exercise, it has worked for me. A quick scan through training manuals and literature seems to agree that post exercise stretching is of benefit BUT there is also a body of literature that points out that it has never been scientifically PROVEN that stretching post exercise is of benefit. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1071358/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1071358/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is that you do what works for you and that you are guided in your stretching by someone who is qualified to give you a stretching and strengthening program. I have often participated in pilates and yoga and find great benefits from a mixture of core strengthening exercises combined w/ lower body stretching. Grab a few books that can be trusted and do as much research as possible. Enroll in some studio based pilates/yoga courses that are run by certified instructors and see how you feel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1934030295&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.ca/Weight-Training-Cyclists-Program-Endurance/dp/1934030295/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1284036394&amp;amp;sr=1-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0736075879&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.ca/Cycling-Anatomy-Shannon-Sovndal/dp/0736075879/ref=pd_sim_b_1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1931382808&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.ca/Pruitts-Complete-Medical-Guide-Cyclists/dp/1931382808/ref=pd_sim_b_6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At worst you will begin to know your body better and get a feel for when you are straining or pushing beyond what your body can handle. In my experience a cyclist with a good amount of 'body awareness' is less prone to injury than those who just hop on the bike and hammer away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helped a bit ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To deal with the question posed below I thought I would add on. I ran out of space in the comments section. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is because most of us are everyday working joes. Sure we ride way too much and some of us compete. But typically we have to either be on our feet or sitting at the desk, day in day out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling is incredibly repetitive and puts you in a position much different than that of your everyday 'healthy' posture. It creates muscular imbalances that can affect your pelvic tilt, your mid back, your neck and more. This can affect how you stand, how you sit and how you feel day to day. So for myself, I stretch so that I can feel better walking around, so that I can feel more like a functional human being. I stretch (and more accurately engage in pilates and yoga) as a form of 'cycling rehab' to try and correct those imbalances. As well that is why I cross train much of the year. From all of that I take it to, the better I feel day to day, the better I perform. And in my experience it has paid off in spades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if your spend 6-8 hours a day on the bike and the rest of the day off of your feet resting, perhaps you would prefer your body to become more oriented towards the position you take on the bike. But for the rest of us ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="245" LastEditDate="2010-09-09T15:28:47.753" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T15:28:47.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-09T14:46:29.900" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some anecdotal evidence seems to suggest that riding while listening to music using headphones is not safe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.denverpost.com/commented/ci_15228281?source=commented-&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teen cyclist wearing headphones when she turned into car&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.express.co.uk/posts/view/197436/Peril-of-headphones-exposed-after-girl-cyclist-dies-in-crash&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peril of headphones exposed after girl cyclist dies in crash&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theage.com.au/victoria/headphone-danger-warning-after-cyclist-using-ipod-hit-by-tram-20100616-yfcc.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Headphone danger warning after cyclist using iPod hit by tram&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is that when you ride a bicycle in traffic, you are already in a particularly vulnerable position and at high risk for sustaining serious injuries in a collision. It would seem wise to do everything possible to lower your risk of having an accident and I don't see how wearing headphones is consistent with lowering risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to that the possibility that it very well may be illegal to listen to headphones while riding (as cyclists are bound to the same rules as motorists in many jurisdictions) and it seems like listening to music while riding is probably not a smart thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the above applies mostly to driving on public roads. When driving on trails, the laws in most places probably do not prohibit listening to headphones and the danger of a collision with another vehicle is obviously significantly reduced when you're not driving around speeding cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="146" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T14:46:29.900" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2010-09-09T15:02:30.087" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised nobody else has mentioned this. Probably &lt;em&gt;the most legitimate&lt;/em&gt; purpose of CO2 inflators for bicycles is for inflating tubeless tires. If you need to replace or repair a tubeless tire, chances are you will have &lt;em&gt;zero&lt;/em&gt; luck inflating the tire if you try to use a hand pump. You either need to use an air compressor (good luck carrying that with you on your rides) or a CO2 inflator. This is because tubeless tires need a sudden and rapid burst of air in order to become inflated. It's the only way to get a tight enough seal between the rim and tire. Otherwise, when initially inflating the tire, air will escape from the tire as fast (or faster) than you can pump it in by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a tubeless tire has sufficient pressure in it to maintain an airtight seal, then a hand pump may be used to inflate it the rest of the way (and to keep it inflated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="146" LastEditorUserId="146" LastEditDate="2010-09-09T15:07:44.983" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T15:07:44.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="463" CreationDate="2010-09-09T16:28:10.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As wdy mentioned, it is quality over quantity especially in your case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freewebs.com/velodynamics2/traininglevels.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.freewebs.com/velodynamics2/traininglevels.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://home.trainingpeaks.com/articles/cycling/power-training-levels,-by-andrew-coggan.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://home.trainingpeaks.com/articles/cycling/power-training-levels,-by-andrew-coggan.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imo increasing your mitochondrial and capillary density are two important items for any type of endurance cycling. As you can see from that chart that puts your most beneficial training zones as 4 &amp;amp; 5. As well you want to increase glycogen storage so riding at tempo (zone 3) is incredibly beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the zone 4ish rides I like to do sweet spot riding or LT intervals &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/?pg=fullstory&amp;amp;id=3232&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/?pg=fullstory&amp;amp;id=3232&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bodyrecomposition.com/training/methods-of-endurance-training-part-3-tempo-and-sweet-spot-training.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bodyrecomposition.com/training/methods-of-endurance-training-part-3-tempo-and-sweet-spot-training.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zone 4/5 you can do criss cross intervals where you go above LT and then drop below LT over a period of 8-15 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your tempo ride you can simply warm up for 5 minutes and go. Ride at tempo for the entirety of your 20 miler and for different effect you can ride at 5 rpm below your standard (or above) or alternate back and forth every 5 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zones 3/4/5 can greatly help you in achieving your distance goals w/out necessarily being able to ride that distance regularly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well if you can fit quick core workouts in in the morning that will greatly help your comfort and performance, as was mentioned above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T16:28:10.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="801" CreationDate="2010-09-09T16:48:08.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the most important point is that it should be dirt cheap. Particularly if you're like me and try it briefly, find that it's uncomfortable when you have to involuntarily dismount and never reassemble it after a move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, large wheeled unicycles are apparently easier to learn on. They are also faster (assuming ungeared), but not as maneuverable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T16:48:08.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="814" CreationDate="2010-09-09T19:01:06.127" Score="8" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a pump at home to use with my high pressure (100-120 psi) road bike tires.  My bike has presta valves, but I would like to be able to use it on Schrader valves, should I get a bike with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who has a floor pump that they like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T19:30:02.180" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T19:30:02.180" Title="What is the best floor pump?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2010-09-09T19:08:53.300" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're riding in temperatures that are only a few degrees below zero, I wouldn't worry too much. As suggested elsewhere, make sure you keep a closer eye on maintenance (brushing off snow/ice, lubrication, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The colder it gets though, the greater the risk that drivetrain components will fail. I've had at least free hubs, where the pawls would stop engaging (i.e. no forward propulsion). I'd say that all your parts will be more brittle in such conditions, so take it easier on your bike than you would normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I've heard anecdotally that it's better to store your bike at sub-freezing temperatures if you ride regularly in the cold. The reasoning is that the snow and ice on your bike won't melt and find it's way into moving parts. This will be more important with the pivots on a dual suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T16:53:35.810" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T16:53:35.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="235" CreationDate="2010-09-09T19:52:41.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like ire_and_curses mentions above there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aafp.org/afp/2003/0901/p917.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;multiple causes of knee pain&lt;/a&gt;. Solving a knee pain problem is entirely dependent on the cause. Stretching, strengthening, physical therapy and surgery are all possible solutions. If the cause is tightness, then stretching can help; if weakness is the cause, then strengthening the relevant muscles can help; or if torn/damaged tissues, then perhaps surgery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you have gotten some good answers, but personally I would not seek a prescription on a web forum. I would strongly suggest that you see a physician and get the injury diagnosed properly. The knee is a complicated joint and the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;wrong solution can easily make it worse&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my own case through physical therapy, I was prescribed hip strengthening and targeted stretches. When I started experiencing knee pain several years ago, I decided to do knee strengthening exercises + some stretching. Wrong. It didn't get better, so I went to the doc who referred me to a physical therapist. The therapist put me on a hip strengthening routine coupled with specific stretches and targeted use of a foam roller. Much better now! (According to my therapist, &lt;em&gt;hip issues can often be a cause of knee pain&lt;/em&gt;, and in my case that's what it turned out to be.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, bottom line. Get it checked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-10T20:22:10.757" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T20:22:10.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="811" CreationDate="2010-09-09T20:04:32.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=47578&amp;amp;menuItemId=9306&amp;amp;eid=5134&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a Specialized pump&lt;/a&gt; which works very well for both high-volume and high pressure tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also used a couple of different &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Floor-Pumps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joe Blow&lt;/a&gt; pumps from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak&lt;/a&gt;, which worked pretty well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In light of this, I'm of the opinion that your best bet is to hit up your LBS and see what they have, and what you like using.  For me, handle shape and size plays a big part (you need comfort to pump up a 26&quot;x4&quot; tire).  Plenty of pumps work for both types of valve, and your LBS should be able to point out which pumps can do this.  Some require you to screw off a cap and flip something over, others can have a two-sided head, and others (like my Specialized) have a head that works for both without any changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T20:04:32.557" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="811" CreationDate="2010-09-09T20:42:25.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 15+ year old Silca floor pump with a gauge and Presta attachment plus a screw-on Schrader adapter. I replaced a gasket about 4 years ago. I ride a lot so it gets frequent use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if I were in the market for a new floor pump, I would get one made of quality materials and one that has replaceable parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old Silca will probably be in my will at this rate...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-10T01:19:29.897" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T01:19:29.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="817" CreationDate="2010-09-09T21:57:02.407" Score="13" ViewCount="1737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a truing stand. Is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-wheel-truing-stand-TS-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park TS-8 Home&lt;/a&gt; good enough? Or should I pay double the price and get the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/professional-wheel-truing-stand-ts-2-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park TS-2.2 Pro&lt;/a&gt;. I have some experience truing wheels, but never on a nice stand. I was using my makeshift home made stand which consists of an old fork and calipers constructed from u-brakes that are bolted on to the fork.  Obviously anything would be huge step up from my current method, but I wonder if the Pro is really that much better? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only need to true bmx wheels (20in) and I used to run 48 spokes so they would stay true for a long time. However, I recently switched to 36 spokes and I find they need a lot more attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="66" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T21:02:43.953" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T21:02:43.953" Title="Truing stands, go big or stay home?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="816" CreationDate="2010-09-09T22:40:29.727" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The TS-2 is what I use and I quite like it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 of them are 17 years old and we just purchased a brand new one. Of course everyone likes the older ones ... hah. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, in my opinion you do not NEED to buy the more expensive one. If you are truing 10+ wheels a day, yes you need it (in my opinion). For home mechanic work, the TS-8 is just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T22:40:29.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="816" CreationDate="2010-09-09T23:07:46.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the more expensive one would be worth it in the long run. The home one looks like it's made from a much lighter material so would be more likely to get damaged in the house (moving....). If you end up buying the home one twice because of damage the pro one would have survived then you didn't really save any money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also much easier to work with two calipers (one per rim side) than a single one. I'd find it pretty annoying to constantly flip the wheel over to check the other side of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-09T23:07:46.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="918" CreationDate="2010-09-09T23:15:35.963" Score="5" ViewCount="4398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new bike that came with Hayes Stroker Trail hydraulic brakes.  From day one they were squeeky and not very grippy.  I wrote it off to the burn in period that most disc brakes require.  But after a few hundred miles on them now they are just as bad.  I have bled then in hopes that air in the line was causing the problem.  I got several air bubbles out of the line which helped with the squishiness of the lever, but alas the brakes are still noisy and lack that braking power that I have had with other disk brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read a little on this problem and some say that it is just the nature of this brand of brake.  Has anyone found a solution to fixing the squeel, short of buying better brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T20:52:03.960" Title="How do I get rid of the noise on my Hayes Stroker Trail brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;hayes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="823" CreationDate="2010-09-09T23:43:06.903" Score="32" ViewCount="10415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was shopping for new panniers and thought it might be worth it to also check out messenger bags as an alternative.  What are the basic pros and cons of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started out using just a regular back pack to carry my stuff, this was quite hot on my back.  I purchased panniers a few years back, and I've been pretty happy with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major problems I have are that the rack is always on the bike, even when I don't need to carry anything.  They are difficult to carry when I'm not on the bike.  Also, most panniers are sold in sets of 2, and I only ever use 1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as messenger bags go, I've never used one before.  Is it that much better than a regular back pack?  I realize it isn't so high on the back, so it should stay cooler, but I'm not sure about having all the weight on me, and how that affects getting out of the saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know what your experiences are with each of them, and which you recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-02-10T03:58:35.513" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T18:39:50.960" Title="What are the pros and cons of panniers vs messenger bags?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;messenger-bags&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="843" CreationDate="2010-09-09T23:58:21.637" Score="15" ViewCount="2927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a commuting/touring bike and my riding is a good bit of commuting mixed with weekend rides of up to 50 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my lame knowledge, I'll assume that lighter wheels can be had when you spend more money, but what are other things to look for or avoid when choosing wheels for a non-racing bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T21:00:43.187" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T13:07:32.683" Title="What should I look for in choosing wheels for a road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="820" CreationDate="2010-09-09T23:59:54.987" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have all 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Messenger bag - All the weight is on one side and supported by one shoulder and the opposite hip to some degree. I found them to be fine with light loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backpack - Like you said can be overly hot. I'm using a Camelback model that includes hydration and a somewhat vented back panel. Overall it's good in that it means a balanced load and has multiple support points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Panniers - Yes, can be a pain to carry. There are some models that can be bought singly. A friend has one that he got from REI. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I like panniers if I have heavy loads, like grocery trips, and I use one or both as needed. The backpack for moderate loads when I want to be more mobile at my destination. The messenger bag I rarely use any more except for light loads and short trips. Of the 3, I use the Camelback most often as it has a large mesh compartment on the back for my helmet and mesh side pockets that hold shoes well, plus an ample interior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-10T00:20:04.360" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T00:20:04.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="820" CreationDate="2010-09-10T00:03:05.400" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Messenger bags still get your back sweaty, sometimes even moreso than a backpack since messenger bags are often wider than a backpack. I find a messenger bag more convenient than a backpack for shorter trips, but a pannier better for rides of greater than a mile or two. A messenger bag is quite handy if you have to make a lot of stops and don't have a lot to carry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often get back pain if I carry my messenger bag for any length of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When carrying a messenger bag with netbook and a book or two, I'm hesitant to rise up out of the saddle. Panniers can actually make a bike a bit more stable, if the weight is carried low to the ground. (The only time I can stand out of the pedals while climbing is on a loaded touring bike, but that's an extreme situation.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My MO is to use what's appropriate to the trip. If I'm riding downtown to get some work done in a cafe with a laptop, I'll most likely take the messenger bag, but if I need to carry stiff for a longer ride, I'll use a couple of panniers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sometimes used one pannier, if the load isn't too heavy. You can also distribute a light load between two panniers. (That's a good use of front panniers, which, depending on the bike, can be more stable that rear panniers.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are options for panniers that need to be carried around a lot. This question and its answers address that well: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/762/recommendation-for-panniers-used-off-the-bike-a-lot&quot;&gt;Recommendation for panniers used off the bike a lot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, the choice of pannier-vs-messenger bag/backpack is a false choice. Both are tools, and you can use what's appropriate to the job at hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T00:03:05.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="811" CreationDate="2010-09-10T00:36:57.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tioga, which has a universal connector so that you can put onto either Schrader or presta valves.  The current model (Zero  Comp Floor Pump) looks pretty much like what I have.  It also has a pressure gauge.  Very versatile and does more than enough for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T00:36:57.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-09-10T02:55:53.633" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Rim&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The circular, U-shaped (in cross-section) part of a bicycle wheel that the tire and spokes are is attached to. Rims attach to the hubs with spokes. &lt;em&gt;Wheel-building&lt;/em&gt; is the process of attaching a hub to a rim with spokes, including bringing the spokes up to tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Characteristics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holes: rims are usually available in 4 hole increments. For example, rims for performance road bikes may be available in 20, 24, 28, or 32 holes. Rims for tandem road bikes may be available in 32, 36, or 40 holes. Some proprietary wheel systems had unusual numbers of holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material: most rims are aluminum. Older rims were made of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_w.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wood&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.exploratorium.edu/cycling/wheel1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;steel&lt;/a&gt;. Modern rims can be made of carbon fiber. Carbon enables much lower weight, and it makes deep aerodynamic wheels more practical (the rims would be heavy in aluminum).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braking surface: rims for rim brake wheels have a brake track. It may be machined smooth or not. Rims for disc brakes do not have a brake track. Carbon rims for rim brakes may have special material in the brake track to enhance braking. For rim brakes, carbon rims perform more poorly than aluminum rims, especially in the rain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire bed: Most rims fit clincher tires. High-performance rims at the time of writing can usually fit tubed or tubeless clincher tires. Alternatively, rims can fit tubular tires, which are glued to the rim bed. Tubular tires &lt;strong&gt;do not fit&lt;/strong&gt; on clincher rims, and vice versa.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With rim brakes, the rim's braking surface will eventually wear out. The metal will become dangerously thin, and it may crack, as this image from Sheldon Brown's site shows. Some rims have a dimple in the sidewall as a wear indicator. When the wear indicator is no longer visible, replace the rim. Wear due to braking is not an issue with disc brakes, as that is borne by the disc rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2IKIb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2IKIb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum rims are extruded as a bar, then rolled into a rim. The ends of the bar are &lt;a href=&quot;https://astralcycling.com/pages/faqs#t4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pinned together, held together by a sleeve, or welded&lt;/a&gt;. Pinned rims are generally the cheapest. Carbon rims are made in one piece in a mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clincher rims require &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/59097/24228&quot;&gt;tape&lt;/a&gt; on the rim bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-11-05T15:05:40.013" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-10T02:55:53.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="52" CreationDate="2010-09-10T03:16:51.650" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing a tire isn't that hard, but it will take a few times for it to seem like second-nature. If you have a road bike with skinny high-pressure tires, you can expect that the tires will be harder to remove and replace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I do it on my touring bike, offroad bikes, cruiser, and folding bikes. You'll need a pump to match the valves used on your bike (presta or schrader), a spare tube, and a place to work. Tire levers would be quite helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deflate the tire (if it isn't already completely flat). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the wheel from the bike. This will probably require that you disconnect the brakes (if you have rim brakes, as the vast majority of bikes do). If your bike doesn't have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/404#404&quot;&gt;quick-release hub&lt;/a&gt;, you'll need a wrench for this.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the tire from the wheel, if possible with the tube still inside. You may need a tire lever for this; it's a small plastic dookickey you can get in any bike store for a few bucks, usually in sets of three. You use it to pry the tube over the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/825#825&quot;&gt;rim&lt;/a&gt; by working the edge of a tire lever under the edge of the tire and prying it over the edge of the rim, then sliding the edge of the tire around the edge of the rim; the tube should pop off when you've completed a circle. Two or three levers makes working with high-pressure tires easier. Once one edge of the tire is off, pull the whole tire and tube off the wheel in the direction of the side you were working with the tire lever, starting on the side of the tire opposite the valve. (Using a flathead screwdriver for this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; advised, as this can scratch the edge of the rim, potentially damaging the wheel. With some lower-pressure tires (such as mountain bikes or children's bikes) you may be able to remove the tire from the rim with no tools at all.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Search for the object that made the puncture, and remove it. This may be a thorn, or a nail, or a piece of glass, but whatever it is will likely be sharp, so be careful! You may have to feel around with your fingertips, or submerge the tube in water and look for rising bubbles, or even turn the tire inside out. If you replace the tube without finding the object that caused the flat you may well get another flat. (If no cause for the flat is presenting itself, you may be getting a flat from the rim itself or a spoke poking the tube.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your spare tube and put a little air in it, just enough to place it on the rim.  Put it on the tube, with the valve poking through the valve hole in the rim. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the tire over the tube, pinching the tire to be sure that it's not pinching the tube as you inflate the tube inside the tire. Be careful that the tire is inflating evenly; the first few times you do this, you may want to inflate it a little at a time and check as you go. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the tire is inflated, re-install it on the bike, and please &lt;strong&gt;make sure to tighten your quick-release and hook your brakes back up&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get back on your bike and enjoy your (for now) shiny new tire! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watching a video or seeing pictures probably makes this all seem simpler; the other answers provided links to these resources. Bonus: More information that you'll ever need to know about tires and how to replace them: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What Every Cyclist Should Know About Flat Tires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T02:20:59.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="829" CreationDate="2010-09-10T04:47:36.903" Score="26" ViewCount="4914" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just thinking about investing in some clip-in pedals (and presumably shoes).  I want to use them mostly on my older road bike but in the future I might want to move them over onto my mountain bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need think think about when investing in clip-in pedals/shoes?  &lt;em&gt;(I have never ridden clippless pedals before)&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about picking up a pair of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442621334&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302692667&quot;&gt;Exustar E-SM440 Mountain Cycling Shoes&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442632528&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302692667&quot;&gt; Lake MX 85 Cycling Shoes&lt;/a&gt;.  Would this be a reasonable shoe to start with?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-09-02T03:12:41.183" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T03:33:19.167" Title="What should I look for in clipless pedals and shoes?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="186" CreationDate="2010-09-10T05:11:37.500" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, replace the missing spokes with properly sized spokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, on the drive side of a rear wheel with derailleur gears you will need to remove the cassette, insert the new spoke(s), then replace it. That requires a special tool (there are several variations for different cassettes and freewheels). A bike shop can do this or sell you the correct tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will always need the next special tool: &lt;strong&gt;a spoke wrench&lt;/strong&gt; that fits the size of spokes you have.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a truing stand is great, you can do some basic truing of a bike with rim brake by simply putting the bike on a stand. With disk brakes a cable tie round the bike frame or fork can be turned so the free end is almost (but not quite) touching the rim. Anything similar will work, you just need something close to the rim that lets you see the gap between that and the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the air out of the tire.  Air pressure in the tire will push the tube against the turning top of the spoke head, and can puncture the tube.  Spin the wheel slowly and watch the space between the rim and the brake pad.  When you have found the centre of a an area that is listing to one side, use your truing wrench to loosen the spoke nearest to it on that side ¼ to ½ turn, and tighten the spokes on the opposite side an equivalent amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you work in small steps and work slowly, it is safe to play around and figure out how truing works.  Patience is required.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rim itself is bent, it may be hard or impossible to true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T01:14:02.933" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T01:14:02.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="827" CreationDate="2010-09-10T06:33:10.440" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pedal Selection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick a system that will work well for your current and future use.  It's annoying to have different shoes for different bikes.  My experience is limited to Shimano SPDs and Crank Brothers systems -- both of these work very well for road and mountain biking.  The shoe cleat is similar for both systems and is fairly small, which means you can use it with shoes that allow recessed cleats.  Very nice to be able to get off the bike and walk like a human being rather than a duck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just starting out with clipless, definitely get double-sided pedals (some &quot;road&quot; pedals only clip in on one side).  If you think you might still occasionally use the bike with regular shoes, consider getting a pedal that also has a normal platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to keep in mind: float.  This is how much freedom your foot has to rotate.  Some folks like almost no float, others like/need plenty -- I need lots for my peculiar pedal stroke.  If in doubt, err on the side of more float, your knees will thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shoes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like regular shoes, fit is very important so make that your first priority.  Remember that your feet swell later in the day so don't try shoes on first thing in the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also look at sole stiffness.  A completely rigid sole transfers more power, but is more awkward to walk in.  A partially rigid sole is a good choice for touring where you're not likely to pack a pair of normal walking shoes.  I have a pair of each but much prefer the rigid soles for normal riding.  Both pairs have recessed cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get your nifty new shoes and pedals: practice, practice, practice!  You need to be able to unclip on either side at a moment's notice.  Practice coming to a stop and unclipping -- better to get it right when you're not in traffic trying to stop at a light.  That said, you will probably still have a few falls.  It normally hurts your pride more than your body and this phase should wear off after a few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T06:33:10.440" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="820" CreationDate="2010-09-10T06:46:28.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is a handlebar bag.  Most models have a quick-release and shoulder strap so they're easier to take with you than a pannier.  Mine is large enough to carry an iPad/netbook plus lunch, sunglasses and other small items.  As long as your load isn't too heavy the effect on your steering is minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I'd go with panniers or a rack-top bag.  Keeps the weight off your back so your bike can do the carrying rather than your muscles.  Standing climbs are also easier without having to balance a swaying load on your shoulder(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T06:46:28.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="820" CreationDate="2010-09-10T07:53:25.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bungee_cord&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bungee cords&lt;/a&gt; to attach my bag on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T07:53:25.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="820" CreationDate="2010-09-10T09:48:00.457" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;messenger bag&lt;/strong&gt; is great when you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are not transporting a heavy load&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Have to put items into the bag, or remove items from the bag very often.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are doing short trips, or having to leave your bike a lot as part of a longer trip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;rucksack&lt;/strong&gt; is great when you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wish to be able to easily carry the load while off the bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to walk a long way after your bike ride, or use public transport&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You wish to have both hands free when not the bike, e.g you need to carry the bike up stairs at the start/end of your trip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Panniers&lt;/strong&gt; are great when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You care more about the “on bike” part of the trip than the “off bike” part&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pannier can have a solder strap, but it still takes time to fit and remove the strap or tie it up so it does not catch in your wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(You will need some sort of rack to fix the Panniers to)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hembrow.eu/variousbikes.html&quot;&gt;basket&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is great when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You wish to transport a normal bag (or rucksack) on your bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You like the fact your the &lt;strong&gt;bag can be removed quickly&lt;/strong&gt; by you (and don’t mind that it can be removed quickly by others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You think being “practical” is more important the being “cool”.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luggage_carrier&quot;&gt;luggage carrier / rack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is great:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you wish to fix a bag or box onto the back of your bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unlike a basket you need to use straps (sometimes build into the rack) to fix the item to the rack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are less likely to get laughed at with a rack then a basket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So it takes longer to fix something onto a rack then put it into a basket, but also it is harder for someone else to remove the item.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Panniers are fixed to a rack; this is covered under the pannier section)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-02-10T16:28:59.393" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T16:28:59.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="820" CreationDate="2010-09-10T11:52:15.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also hate leaving my rack on my bike carrying a back pack.  One solution that I have been thinking about is to get a trailer.  Most trailers can be attached in about 2 seconds so it is fast, keeps the weight off your back, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Bought a trailer.  Love it.  Highly recommended.  Have a Bob trailer.  Was as much as my bike but easily worth it.  Only advice: if you are getting one and planning on ridding on rolling terrain or dirt roads drop the extra $70 for suspension.  I didn't but wish I had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2013-02-12T01:26:07.137" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T01:26:07.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="827" CreationDate="2010-09-10T12:07:15.737" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Re: Float&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, manufacturers will supply this information in their description of the pedals, and retailers will mention it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used clipless pedals since 1990 or so, &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; longer than I ever used toe-clips. I've used systems like LOOK (which Shimano has co-opted) which have a larger cleat, but I recently switched systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched to Crank Brothers pedals for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Four-sided entry&lt;/strong&gt;: The 'eggbeater' pedals I have now can be accessed from any side at any time, unlike the Look style which has a distinct 'top' side and 'bottom' side. This makes starting from a dead stop a little easier, because you don't have to mentally 'hook' your toe and step down quite as deliberately.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smaller cleat&lt;/strong&gt;: I don't use recessed cleat shoes, but I wanted the option in the future. Also, to continue from the previous point, clipping in is significantly easier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lower 'stack height'&lt;/strong&gt;: The vertical distance from the ball of my foot to the spindle of the pedal is significantly shorter with the eggbeaters than with my old Look pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lighter Weight&lt;/strong&gt;: Okay, this one was less important, but even the heaviest Eggbeater was lighter than the pedals I was replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T12:07:15.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="841" CreationDate="2010-09-10T13:07:05.703" Score="21" ViewCount="1581" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cambridge-news.co.uk/Home/The-great-cycle-helmet-debate.htm&quot;&gt;research&lt;/a&gt; seems to show car drivers give you more space if they think you are more likely to do something unpredictable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It claims that where a cycle helmet often results in drivers giving you less space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So how I make a driver think I am not a safe cyclist without being unsafe.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the reason why the cyclists I always saw in Cambridge without lights never seem to get knocked of their bikes, but “safe” cyclists I knew with good lights and reflective jackets etc did sometimes (not often) get knocked of their bikes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drianwalker.com/overtaking/&quot;&gt;Direct link to research&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bamboobadger.blogspot.com/2009/03/bicycle-overtaking-and-rebuttals.html&quot;&gt;blog post&lt;/a&gt; by the researcher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2010-09-20T12:19:47.007" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T22:51:04.947" Title="How can I look unsafe to a car driver but be safe" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2010-09-10T13:37:27.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long blonde wig? Perhaps a short grey wig. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Anecdotally [not data, not evidence] I find that wearing reflective gear makes it much more common for drivers to nudge past where there isn't space.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T13:37:27.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="827" CreationDate="2010-09-10T13:48:26.153" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first piece of advice to you would be - &quot;be prepared to fall, because you will&quot;. I remember the first time I used clipless pedals. I finished a ride, got back to the house, went to put the feet on the floor. JAMMED! Panicked, slowly fell to the side. But don't worry, you'll soon get used to it. I definitely wouldn't go back to toe straps now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T13:48:26.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2010-09-10T13:52:30.820" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try not hugging the edge of the road, drivers will be more tempted to squeeze past through smaller gaps if you're right at the edge. Instead ride about 1/4 of the way across the lane, it might p*** off a few drivers, but it will make them think twice about squeezing past with overtaking traffic / parked cars / etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T13:52:30.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2010-09-10T14:49:00.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;By my behaviour, I try to send the message &quot;Warning, I am about to do something unsafe or unpredictable&quot; to car drivers. This may take the form of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;having a trajectory which gives no clue to car driver other than it may cross his own trajectory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;establishing eye contact, somehow like: &quot;I know that you are there and you know that I am here: don't try to commit homicid and then pretend that you didn't see me&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keeping my behaviour within the limits of the laws, and not giving car drivers the opportunity to break laws (sometimes they may be tempted to ignore cyclists)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this is possible only after having anticipated as much as possible what may happen. If I don't feel safe enough, I prefer to reach a situation where I am and look safe (stop and wait for better conditions for example). Also, I don't try to struggle with angry car drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T14:49:00.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2010-09-10T14:51:15.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is to play it safe and protect yourself.  It is always a good idea to wear a helmet and clothing that allows you to be seen.  The cars are the issue here and until motorist become more aware of the danger that they put cyclist in when getting too close, we cyclist have to do our best to avoid danger.  We can do this by wearing a helmet, reflective or bright clothing, having a decent front and rear light, obeying traffic law, and signaling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay safe and happy biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T14:51:15.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2010-09-10T14:52:37.330" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the city, it's best to &quot;take the lane&quot; and behave like traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on country roads, I prefer to do the following. When you hear/notice a car approaching, weave out about a meter into the road, then weave back. Repeat this a couple times, until the car is very close, then just hold your line on the edge of the road. The car will worry that you might weave again, and give you ample room.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T14:52:37.330" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="52" CreationDate="2010-09-10T15:02:05.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; recommend the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.parktool.com/product/super-patch-kit-gp-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;park tool glueless 'Super Patch'&lt;/a&gt; - so much less faff, and all you need to carry are the tyre levers and the patches. No cementing, no sandpapering, you just stick it straight on. It Just Works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I do not work for Park tool.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="366" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2018-08-16T14:44:05.210" LastActivityDate="2018-08-16T14:44:05.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="821" CreationDate="2010-09-10T15:34:28.810" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're doing mostly commuting I'd look for strength above light. Go for something with more spokes and with a 3 cross lacing pattern. You want something that is reliable. Of course you weight is a consideration so there is always a trade off between that and durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going with something with radial (straight) lacing up front can save weight and you're less likely to break a spoke on the front wheel so there is less chance that durability will be a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T15:34:28.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2010-09-10T19:20:38.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm rather fond of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.everytrail.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Everytrail&lt;/a&gt;. You can find maps for just about any activity, not just biking, though that's what I primarily use it for. There are iPhone and Android apps too, which work really well. They just added the ability to search for trails based on your current location (in the Android version at least), filterable by activity (road biking, mountain biking, etc). I've found a bunch of new places to check out this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="273" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T19:20:38.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="862" CreationDate="2010-09-10T19:32:49.590" Score="15" ViewCount="3965" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/827/clipless-pedals-first-time-user-buyer&quot;&gt;&#xA;this question&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I asked about clipless pedals.  The term &lt;strong&gt;float&lt;/strong&gt; came up.  I think that float refers to how far you need to turn your shoe in order to release it from the pedal.  &lt;em&gt;Q1: Is this correct?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that when I buy clipless pedals I will need three things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clip that screws onto shoe that will fit in pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q2: Is this correct?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I am right about that I think that the shoe that I buy will be independent of how much float there is.  &lt;em&gt;Q3: Is this correct? Can I buy any shoe and change the level of float by changing the clips?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T04:04:34.787" Title="Clipless Pedals - Float" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="845" CreationDate="2010-09-10T20:04:55.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Float adjustment depends on the pedals. My Time Alium pedals adjust float by flipping the cleat around. A pair of SPD pedals generally has a tension screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Float is the degrees of rotation needed to release your foot from the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most shoes will fit any cleat style. Many years ago I bought a pair of SIDI shoes for my MTB that required me to cut out a bit of the tread on the shoe. Not really all that big a deal most of the time, but it might be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you are talking road shoes then there are different cleat bolt patterns so you have to buy the version of the shoe with the proper bolt pattern. If it's a MTB shoe then bolt patterns are all the same as far as I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long term, I always put a bit of Loctite on my cleats once I've got them adjusted perfectly. I also trace their position with a permanent marker. The marker doesn't stay totally but it's typically a rough idea so you know if you're cleats have moved. Checking your cleats once a month is a good idea to make sure they're still tight. I have had a pair drop a screw and I needed a screw driver to remove them from the pedal. The cleat wiggling loose also killed a shoe since I didn't notice for a few rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T04:04:34.787" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T04:04:34.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="186" CreationDate="2010-09-10T20:34:14.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your wheel, you'll want to get spokes cut to the length of your wheel by a local bike shop. The length depends on the rim size, the hub size, and the spoke pattern, so the best way to do this is to bring the wheel in yourself. Bringing the wheel in will also help the mechanics to tell you if it is beyond repair - once wheels have bent more than an inch or so, they rarely can be trued to be as strong as they were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the spokes and the nipples to attach them to the rim, you can tighten them with a spoke wrench. Once you have the new spokes tightened down, work your way around the hub, tightening spokes to adjust the rim position.  Keep in mind that you are tightening the spoke into the nipple, so if you are looking from hub to rim, you want to turn left to tighten and right to loosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a more in depth explanation of this up on wikibooks, as well: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Wheels_and_Tires/Truing_a_bicycle_wheel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Wheels_and_Tires/Truing_a_bicycle_wheel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T20:34:14.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-10T20:57:37.080" Score="1" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/210/where-to-find-good-bicycle-maintenance-info&quot;&gt;Where to find good bicycle maintenance info?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What book should someone that can fix a puncture but who have never replaced bearings etc read to learn how to maintain a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T21:08:23.633" Title="What book should I read to learn how to maintain a bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;book&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2010-09-10T21:53:00.620" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="849" CreationDate="2010-09-10T21:08:23.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend Park Tool's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=19&amp;amp;item=BBB-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Big Blue Book of Bike Repair&lt;/a&gt;. Plenty of pictures and good explanations. This book has made a number of things seem a lot less intimidating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="273" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T21:08:23.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="471" CreationDate="2010-09-10T21:14:36.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tip my friend showed me at the weekend was to take to take a wheel and find a pointy rock. Lean all your weight gently onto the wheel. If the wheel doesn't hit the pointy rock then you're not likely to suffer from a pinch flat. If the rock easily touches the rim then the pressure is too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should account for a number of critical variables such as the volume of the tyre and the weight of the rider and the reasoning that you'll hit the rock at speed or on one wheel only (normally each wheel only takes 1/2 your weight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T21:14:36.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="857" CreationDate="2010-09-10T21:53:08.187" Score="29" ViewCount="1461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in home-made sports drinks. I have used &quot;Hammer Nutrition&quot; products, but I could probably put it together myself, just by using the key ingredients. Anyhow, has anyone done this? And, how do you determine the carb/fat/protein + vitamin/mineral ratios?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of years ago I ran across an &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.frs.com/vip/search/about.aspx&quot;&gt;FRS&lt;/a&gt; ad on a cycling site. Since Lance was promoting it, I took a look at the claims. Basically, the FRS products contain sugar, some vitamins, plus supplements of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quercetin&quot;&gt;Quercetin&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catechin&quot;&gt;Catechin&lt;/a&gt;. The main benefit claim for FRS turns out to be the quercetin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I came up with a simple concoction of honey sweetened tea, and also pop a multivitamin before a ride. (Tea is one of the highest sources of quercetin.) And carry along a high cocoa bar for catechins. (Cocoa is high in catechin.) So, all in all way cheaper than buying FRS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does anyone make their own sports drinks? And if so, what do you put in it?&lt;/em&gt; I personally dislike most commercial sports drinks and so for electrolytes, when needed, I use Endurolyte tablets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Maltodextrin will go into the mix. However, how do I formulate the rest of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;Edit: This was recently downvoted. Maybe it's a bad question?&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T23:19:43.850" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T11:25:33.867" Title="Formula for Homemade sports drinks" Tags="&lt;hydration&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2010-09-10T22:17:50.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend Park Tool's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=19&amp;amp;item=BBB-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Big Blue Book of Bike Repair&lt;/a&gt;. Plenty of pictures and good explanations. This book has made a number of things seem a lot less intimidating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Moved over from a duplicate question. I can't vote on comments yet, or I'd just +1 to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/109/gabe&quot;&gt;Gabe&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T22:17:50.580" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-10T22:17:50.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2010-09-10T23:08:07.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a combination of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1844254216&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Haynes Bike Book&lt;/a&gt; which is like a standard Haynes Manual but for bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1847324169&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Complete Do It Yourself Bike Book&lt;/a&gt; by Mel Allwood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Internet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between them the two books tend to give me a thorough step by step breakdown of what needs to be done and what tools I might require, whilst the internet just pads this out (and can occasionally be either difficult to search or confusing with it's results).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T23:08:07.390" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-10T23:08:07.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2010-09-10T23:18:26.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.transportdirect.info/Web2/Home.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Transport Direct&lt;/a&gt; have a route planner which includes cycling routes and has some nice options (especially the choice between quietest, quickest and most recreational route).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclegm.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CycleGM&lt;/a&gt; have details of all cycle lanes and traffic free routes through Greater Manchester on their website, but the online map is not very user friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T23:18:26.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-10T23:26:00.100" Score="10" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are all the best efforts truly local, or are there good regional/national causes (for example, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.railstotrails.org&quot;&gt;Rails-to-Trails Conservancy&lt;/a&gt;) that are worth supporting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="273" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-12-03T18:50:13.900" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T14:17:20.650" Title="What are the most effective methods of bicycling advocacy?" Tags="&lt;advocacy&gt;&lt;resource&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="852" CreationDate="2010-09-10T23:35:19.000" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maltodextrin&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maltodextrin.&lt;/a&gt;  It is basically pure glucose, which is the only sugar that your muscles can use directly without converting, so it's just pure energy.  It also has no flavor or sweetness, so it is completely inoffensive, and you can sweeten (or not) to your desired level. Look in any sport beverage and it will contain maltodextrin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://morebeer.com/view_product/15521//Maltodextrin_lb&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;home&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williamsbrewing.com/1_LB_MALTODEXTRIN_POWDER_P827C97.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;brewing&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.homebrewheaven.com/malto-dextrin-8-oz-p512.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;places&lt;/a&gt; sell maltodextrin and you can also get it from websites that cater to racing dogs (e.g. for the iditerod) as a dog supplement, but it's totally safe for human consumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2010-09-10T23:48:57.120" LastActivityDate="2010-09-10T23:48:57.120" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-10T23:35:19.000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="864" CreationDate="2010-09-11T00:12:09.297" Score="22" ViewCount="37200" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is probably a really basic question but I'm confused by the whole brake mechanism so...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My left (front wheel) brake has to be pulled in really far before it actually starts to brake (I guess before the brake pads touch the wheel). What do I do to tighten it up? (diagrams would really help, I think)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="371" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-11T03:11:40.943" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T10:06:37.303" Title="How to tighten a brake?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="856" CreationDate="2010-09-11T00:24:35.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of cycling clubs that are associated with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imba.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IMBA (International Mountain Biking Association)&lt;/a&gt;. These clubs often run events and maintain trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By joining an IMBA club, you'll help support efforts on a regional and national level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-09-11T00:24:35.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="858" CreationDate="2010-09-11T00:31:37.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most V-Brakes have a little screw at the base of each 'arm' that adjusts the pre-load. To move the brake pad closer to the rim, I believe that you need to loosen the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't completely fix the problem, you might have to apply some oil to where the arm pivots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-09-11T00:31:37.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="858" CreationDate="2010-09-11T02:04:05.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can probably used the barrel adjuster near the brake lever itself to take up some slack in the cable.  While looking from the cable towards the brake lever, turn the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise (to the left) a turn or so at a time until the distance of pull on the brake lever is reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2010-09-11T02:04:05.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="845" CreationDate="2010-09-11T02:47:18.790" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q1:&lt;/strong&gt; No, &quot;float&quot; is the amount your feet can rotate (around a vertical axis) while clipped in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A system/cleat with little or no float keeps your foot in a very rigid position.  You can't freely twist your toe/heel while pedaling.  If you have a textbook pedal stroke, low float will keep your feet in the right place so you can focus on other things.  With more float, your foot has more freedom to rotate.  This can be helpful if your technique is less perfect and your body needs the extra freedom.  I have an old knee injury and need plenty of float -- with less my knee really hurts.  So you want to get enough float to allow you to pedal comfortably, but not so much that you develop a sloppy pedal stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't really affect how far you need to turn your foot to unclip.  Well, you do have to turn further in a system with more float, but that's not the point of having more float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q2:&lt;/strong&gt; Pedals normally come with a set of cleats and bolts to attach them.  And most shoes are designed to fit a wide range of cleats and offer a fair amount of cleat adjustment.  But if in doubt, check before you buy.  You probably want your LBS to help you get the cleats positioned correctly anyway (I've done it myself but it involves a lot of trial and error).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q3:&lt;/strong&gt;  My experience is limited to Crank Brothers and SPDs -- both of these offer different clips for differing amounts of float.  Don't assume that all systems do this, so check them out first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-11T02:47:18.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="827" CreationDate="2010-09-11T05:08:34.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others have done a good job on the pedals; I'll focus on the shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like riding with mountain biking shoes since you can walk around easily with them. You never know when you'll need to walk around; today at work work I wound up using them all day long because I forgot I brought my shoes home the other day while driving. That would have totally sucked if I had been using my road shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spend a bit of time in an empty parking lot getting used to clipping in and out. Twisting your foot is really pretty straightforward once you get the hang of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride the Shimano SH-M086L shoes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xd2sZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I ride the Crank Brothers &quot;Candy&quot; pedals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGkpi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have over 2000 miles on  this combination this year alone and love it. Bought them both at Performance Bike and spent &amp;lt; $100 total. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastActivityDate="2010-09-11T05:08:34.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="858" CreationDate="2010-09-11T06:10:32.980" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two basic adjustments that apply to all types of rim brakes (v-brakes, cantilevers, calipers):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tension:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The cable tension from the brake lever to the brakes adjusts how responsive your brakes feel.  Tighten it up and both brake pads will engage sooner and the braking action will be harder.  Loosen it up and braking will feel spongy and you may not get enough power.  Normally you want to add tension; removing tension is only done when you put on fresh pads or if you set the tension too tight.  Adding tension periodically is important since your pads wear down over time and the cable stretches a bit too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to adjust the tension is to use a barrel adjuster: they're usually on the brake lever or the brake or both if you're lucky.  Add tension by turning the adjuster counter-clockwise (looking at it from the side where the cable housing goes in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But whenever you adjust tension, you need to fix...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Balance:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This controls how far each pad is from the rim.  Adding tension will pull both pads closer to the rim, but usually one will move more than the other.  So by adjusting balance you can move the closer one further away and the other pad will do the opposite.  You want to balance the pads so that they're about the same distance from the rim and engage at about the same time.  If it's skewed (like your brakes) then you won't get as much braking power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For v-brakes and canti's there's a spring inside each brake arm.  You can adjust the spring force by turning a small set screw on the side of the brake arm.  Screwing it in (clockwise) will pull the arm away from the rim (which pulls the other one closer).  It's best to adjust the two arms together:  screw in the closer arm first by half a turn to start, and screw out the other one by the same amount.  Check the balance and then repeat as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For caliper brakes (road bikes) there's normally just one set screw to adjust.  Turn it to see which way the brakes move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-11T06:10:32.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="866" CreationDate="2010-09-11T12:03:47.350" Score="17" ViewCount="7119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have lots of bikes and lots of interesting wheel sizes, I would like to know how to calculate the right spoke lengths for a wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate that there are probably rather a lot of variables but this is something that has been an issue for me from time to time so being able to work out the right spoke length for an arbitrary wheel (did I mention that I have half a dozen or more different wheel sizes in the garage?) would be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear - I don't want a calculator, I want to know what the sums are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T08:28:25.997" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T00:32:22.590" Title="How do I calculate spoke length?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;math&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="865" CreationDate="2010-09-11T15:47:39.800" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic arrangement for cross-laced spokes is thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Spoke Length = sqrt[ (RRSP - (HSR * cos(SAA)))^2 + HFO^2 - (HSR * cos(SAA))^2 ]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For radial (straight) spokes, the formula is simpler:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Spoke Length = sqrt[ (RRSP - HSR)^2 + HFO^2 ]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RRSP&lt;/strong&gt; (Rim Radius plus Spoke Penetration) is half of the Effective Rim Diameter given by the manufacturer plus 2mm for the spoke's penetration into the nipple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HSR&lt;/strong&gt; (Hub Spoke Radius) is the radius from the hub center to the outermost edge of the spoke holes on the hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SAA&lt;/strong&gt; (Spoke Anchor Angle) is the angle of from the hub spoke hole to rim hole that the spoke goes to.  It depends upon the lacing pattern and which individual spoke you are calculating for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HFO&lt;/strong&gt; (Hub Flange Offset) is the distance from the hub's flange to the lateral center of the wheel, based upon the dish of the wheel.  For a front wheel, this will be the same on each side, but for a rear wheel, which has a dish to accommodate the rear gears, this is different for each side since the hub's own lateral center is different from the wheel's lateral center.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll credit &lt;a href=&quot;http://spokeanwheel.110mb.com/&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for the formula; it also has more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a bunch of calculators online, the easiest of which is probably &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm&quot;&gt;Damon Rinard's spocalc spreadsheet&lt;/a&gt;.  Other calculators:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.appliedthought.com/danny/Spoke/SpokeCalculator.html&quot;&gt;Danny Epstein's&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/calculator/&quot;&gt;Roger Musson's&lt;/a&gt; (he literally &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php&quot;&gt;wrote the book&lt;/a&gt; on wheel building)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeschool.com/spokes/&quot;&gt;United Bicycle Institute&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, Sheldon Brown has a great page on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#length&quot;&gt;wheel building&lt;/a&gt; and you can learn more about the math from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php&quot;&gt;above mentioned book&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2010-09-12T17:52:52.730" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T17:52:52.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2010-09-11T16:21:35.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Like Drew and others have said - I make sure i am visible and &quot;take the lane&quot;.  if the situation calls for it I make sure I take a lane so that cars do not put me at risk and try to squeeze by me.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am courteous to cars and pedestrians.  Thanking with a wave when people merge correctly or give me the right of way I deserve.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2010-09-11T16:21:35.767" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-11T16:21:35.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2010-09-11T18:10:52.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on whether you want respect at the LBS or every other place you go into.  I'm cut-offs, T-shirts, and tennies.  I like going past the dudes that spent more on their clothes than I spent on my bike.  Sure, I look like a construction worker that's lost his driver's license but I don't wear 420/tie-dyed either.  Misdirection and a contrarian streak.  As soon as someone says 'you gotta...' I'm gone, and it is cheaper. Clothes might make THE man but they don't make a man.  Go to a ski resort and look at the people coming off of the ends of the 'bunny runs', they've got all the fancy stuff.  &quot;Just do it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="cardo" LastActivityDate="2010-09-11T18:10:52.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2010-09-11T19:53:17.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because sweaty, crumpled cotton a) chafes and b) is pretty unhygienic. Lycra (&quot;spandex&quot;) doesn't bunch up, shifts sweat more effectively and (if padded) takes a bit of the road buzz away. I'm so used to wearing it the idea of looking strange doesn't even cross my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you wear, make sure you wash it often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-09-11T19:53:17.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="871" CreationDate="2010-09-12T00:28:29.243" Score="5" ViewCount="1781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want some basic things in toolkit (like oiling of chain, tightening of brakes etc). Where can I find them and how much does it usually cost? I want to buy one, so can you name the basic tools with their functions in layman's language?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user386" LastEditorUserId="2331" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T16:35:08.083" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T05:36:12.573" Title="Where can I get a basic toolkit for bicycle - Walmart etc?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="870" CreationDate="2010-09-12T02:07:50.207" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can easily find a &quot;bicycle multitool&quot;/&quot;multi bicycle tool&quot;/&quot;bike multifunction tool&quot; that covers all the basic essentials in one tool. There's tons of brands and models and what's most readily available may vary regionally, but common brands I've seen are: Park, Crank Brothers, Topeak, Serfas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where? I would go to my local bicycle shop to get them, or there's plenty of places you can order them online. I have no idea what Walmart stocks.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/category/4500891&quot;&gt;REI&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_scat_3405591_ln?rh=n:3405591,k%3abicycle+multitool&amp;amp;keywords=bicycle+multitool&quot;&gt;Amazon.com&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/store/sub/116-Tools.aspx?s=735&quot;&gt;jensonusa.com&lt;/a&gt;, etc.  The only place recommendation I'd go with is: your local bike shop, that's owned by people into bicycles and primarily sells bicycles; they're bound to have some tools for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tools&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Screwdrivers&lt;/strong&gt; - both straight/standard/slot and philips.  You probably already have some.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hex Keys (Metric)&lt;/strong&gt; - (drivers, bits for a driver, whatever...). Also called &quot;Allen keys&quot;, &quot;hex keys&quot;, &quot;hex driver&quot;, etc. 3-8mm range, typically, but you might need 1.5mm, 2mm, and/or 2.5mm. Most of the bolts on a bicycle are hex, and they're always metric.  It's likely that adjusting your brakes, for instance, requires a very small hex bit, swapping your water bottle cage a more medium sized hex bit, and adjusting your seat a larger hex bit.  L-shaped ones where the long end has a &quot;ball&quot; version of the hex and the short end is straight are nice; the ball lets you work at awkward angles and when the short side is used you get more leverage.  There's also some nice Y-shaped ones with 3 different sizes that I see used a lot.  The exact sizes will depend on your bike and components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Maybe&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Torx&lt;/strong&gt; - it's unlikely but possible that there's Torx somewhere on your bike.  Apparently they're common on disc brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire Levers&lt;/strong&gt; - these are usually plastic (nylon), and are used to remove your tire from the wheel so that you can repair flats.  Commonly sold in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TL-1-Tire-Lever/dp/B001B6NFH2&quot;&gt;sets of 3&lt;/a&gt;.  Experienced people can get a tire off with just one, but it's easiest if you have three.  2-10USD for a set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pump&lt;/strong&gt; - A floor pump &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a portable pump on the bike is great.  There's two kinds of valves, make sure your pump works with your valves. Many pumps can convert between them.  The floor pump is for when you're working on things at home, the portable pump you take on the bike (along with tire levers and patch kit or a spare tube), because a floor pump is much easier to use than any portable pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rags&lt;/strong&gt; - an old rag or two, for grasping very greasy parts, wiping off the chain after lubricating it, etc.  Cotton is good, and preferably fairly smooth (not an old terrycloth towel; the loops snag).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except for the pump and rags, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=11&amp;amp;item=IB-2&quot;&gt;typical&lt;/a&gt; bicycle &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=11&amp;amp;item=MTB-3&quot;&gt;multitool&lt;/a&gt; will have all those and cost between 20USD and 40USD.  A &quot;standalone&quot; version of each tool will almost always be better than what's included in a multitool, but more expensive to get a whole set.  However, you can get a decent set of hex keys for under 10USD and tire levers for 5USD and still be a bit cheaper than a multitool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Consumables&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain Lube&lt;/strong&gt; - only need a very small bottle, and usually the bottle has a tip you can use to apply the lube without using another tool.  Make sure it's a lubricant intended for use on bicycle chains.  In particular, WD-40 is no good for this. Obviously not included in a multitool, generally 3-10USD for a small amount.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flat repair kit&lt;/strong&gt; - This is a little kit costing under 5USD (they're a common giveaway item, even) for fixing holes in a tube (the thing inside the tire that holds the air). Generally a small amount of sandpaper or sort of metal file is included in the kit. There's self-adhesive patches, but I find the ones that have a separate tube of glue work better. Usually instructions are included.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spare tubes&lt;/strong&gt; - The patches eventually give out, so you'll want a spare tube or two.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, I think that covers the basics.  You might also consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Less important / Less &quot;basic&quot;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spoke wrench&lt;/strong&gt; - to adjust the spokes if they're loose, etc.  Also needed if you have to replace a spoke.  If you think you'll have to replace spokes, you may also need a chain whip and a tool for removing the rear gears, but the specifics will depend on your bike and that's getting a bit beyond &quot;basic&quot;. Truing a wheel (making it straight and perfect) without a truing stand is tricky and a truing stand is definitely beyond a &quot;basic&quot; toolkit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire boot&lt;/strong&gt; - bit of rubber to patch the tire if you have a big gash in the tire. However, punctures (which generally don't require a boot) are more common than gashes, and you can make a makeshift boot out of all sorts of things, such as a $1 bill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain tool&lt;/strong&gt; - for makeshift chain repairs.  Usually chain problems mean you should replace the chain, but if you're out on the road and your chain breaks, you can remove a link and reconnect your chain (shorter) and make it home (avoiding the bigger gears until the chain is replaced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hex sockets&lt;/strong&gt; - (metric, under 10mm).  Less common on bikes, and another item people already commonly have, but you may need both &quot;genders&quot; of hexagonal wrench.  On my own bike, I've used this on the fenders and not much else. Open or box is fine, and thin is probably fine, too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-12T17:04:48.103" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T17:04:48.103" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2010-09-12T02:18:28.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first few years of bike commuting, I was all about cotton shorts and shirts. I thought lycra looked stupid, and was a waste of money. Then I tried some lycra shorts. What a difference. My stuff didn't get chafed or squished on the 15km ride to work. I kept cooler and drier. Totally worth it. I always wear lycra bike shorts now (the padding and hold-stuff-in-place ability are essential for comfort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T02:18:28.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="225" CreationDate="2010-09-12T08:00:41.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a link with several methods for calculating max heart rate. The original &quot;220 - Age&quot; method came about in a very 'off the cuff' manner, and others have developed new calculations. On the site I linked the HR calculations are cited and the site includes calculators to punch in numbers. Regardless, these calculations are an estimate, as individuals can go above the estimated max or never reach it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brianmac.co.uk/maxhr.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.brianmac.co.uk/maxhr.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get an accurate appraisal in a sports lab, but it's spendy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-12T08:07:20.880" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T08:07:20.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-12T09:31:54.280" Score="11" ViewCount="3408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two bicycles that suffer this problem, both pretty heavy frames (one a ladies, Hollander bike, and the other a man's commuter) - both have correctly adjusted Derailleurs which don't produce any noise or rub on the chain during normal riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However with both, on flat ground, at nominal speed - once every 3-10 revolutions of the chain it will simply skip; there's no drive for a quarter of a turn and then everything is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had originally assumed that this was a misalignment, or normal chain-skip (as I had only noticed it under heady load, cycling hard out of the saddle. However noticing the same happens on my girlfriend's bike, and on mine when I'm taking it easy disconcerts me, and leaves me with little confidence in the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure where to start diagnosing, however I suspect that stripping the drive train might be a start… perhaps also examining the chain for nipped-links, and the sprockets for damaged teeth (although, both bikes have a bash-guard on the front sprocket)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help or advice greatly appreciated, I'm a pretty handy motorcycle mechanic, but I always found working on my Human powered bikes a lot more fiddly :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="388" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T16:36:27.633" Title="Problem with chain `skipping` (but not trying to shift)" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="874" CreationDate="2010-09-12T11:18:24.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to check the chains for &amp;quot;stretch&amp;quot; if they've been on the bikes for any length of time as this can cause the cause the chain to skip (as can worn sprockets resulting from running  with a worn chain for too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to get a ruler and measure 12 double links worth of chain. If the chain has &amp;quot;stretched&amp;quot; (in other words worn) it will measure  more than 30cm (12 inches) and may also have damaged the sprockets on the rear cassette or chainring too. The degree of wear will indicate whether the chain needs replacing or the sprockets too. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt; gives the following indicators:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the rivet is less than 1/16&amp;quot; past the mark, all is well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the rivet is 1/16&amp;quot; past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the rivet is 1/8&amp;quot; past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8&amp;quot; point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the rivet is past the 1/8&amp;quot; mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left mine to long and had to buy a new chain, rear cassette and chain rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T11:18:24.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="856" CreationDate="2010-09-12T11:47:38.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buying from your local bike store that does advocacy, instead of ordering online or buying from Walmart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T11:47:38.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2010-09-12T12:45:54.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the whole lane in the city.  Ride past stopped cars at lights and get &quot;first in line&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="390" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T12:45:54.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="856" CreationDate="2010-09-12T14:26:58.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slightly silly but... public transport strikes. Preferably in sunny weather!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T14:26:58.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="856" CreationDate="2010-09-12T14:27:32.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the aspects of Cycling Advocacy is to make cycling more popular. My usual approach to this is to get work colleagues to volunteer to take part in a charity bike ride a few months from now (we usually do the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.christies.org/events/cycling/bikeride/default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manchester to Blackpool Bike Ride&lt;/a&gt; in aid of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.christies.org/default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Christie&lt;/a&gt; which is about 60 miles long). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of the various people who volunteer and do the bike ride each year, a number carry on cycling (if they hadn't already been keen cyclists), this was what got me back into cycling a few years ago, now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my suggestion would be to try and get friends or colleagues to do something cycling related with a few months to prepare for it, and hope that as a result they will rediscover cycling and become once more converted to the Way of the Bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T14:27:32.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2010-09-12T15:01:27.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find automatic transmission fluid (aka &quot;the red stuff&quot;) works really well. It's pretty thin, so it gets into all the places it needs to go, and it doesn't seem to attract dirt/dust that much. Oh, and you can get a quart of it for four bucks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="392" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T15:01:27.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="874" CreationDate="2010-09-12T16:36:27.633" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that it was a stiff link, stripping the chain off the bike, dousing it in brake cleaner, then oil and leaving it to bathe a few minutes, then repeating the process left the chain rust and dirt free, looking like new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took off the chain, I broke it at the stuck link (which was &lt;em&gt;clearly evident&lt;/em&gt; going through the derailleur when pedalling the bike backwards) -- cleaned everythingh whilst I had the opportunity and reassembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst the chain was off, I did measure it, and things were within tolerance, although (I assume naturally) a little stretched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help, I now have again a reliable bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="388" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T16:36:27.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="856" CreationDate="2010-09-12T17:52:19.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://adventurecycling.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Adventure Cycling Association&quot;&gt;Adventure Cycling Association&lt;/a&gt; is a great group. Their nonprofit mission: &quot;to inspire people of all ages to travel by bicycle for fitness, fun, and self-discovery.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T17:52:19.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="888" CreationDate="2010-09-12T17:55:04.303" Score="12" ViewCount="86608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been biking for 2 months now with my U-lock still on my bike, it sort of gets in the way of pedaling sometimes and I'm kinda tired of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any ways to get the remnants of the key out from the lock? Or is my only option to send this to the bike shop and have them saw it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can provide pictures if necessary. I've been using a secondary chain in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="393" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T08:51:54.060" Title="My key jammed in my U-lock. How can I unlock/break it?" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="811" CreationDate="2010-09-12T18:06:50.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is marginal 'cos its asking about specifics which change over time and products which are not necessarily universally available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My (very wonderful) trackpump has certain attributes that make me like it but given that its at least 6, more likely 8 or 10 years old so... better to define the things that make me like it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It works i.e. it puts a lot of air in the tyres efficiently (hard to evaluate but it is key).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Big, clear, gauge - at the top - with a &quot;target&quot; marker so your getting the right pressures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smarthead - don't have to worry about presta or schraeder just push it on and lift the lever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very stable in use - big base to put one's foot etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solid. Very solid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you put everything away properly the hose loops through a hook, there's a hole to park the head and there a &quot;hook&quot; so that you can carry it by the handle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last but not least, its still working a lot of years.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keys are 2, 3 and 4 the rest are bonus features that differentiate it from the alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what its worth, its a Topeak Jo Blow Pro - but what resemblence mine bears to a current model is unknown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T18:06:50.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2010-09-12T19:26:04.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the U-Lock has a circular key and you manage to get the remains of the key out then check out these YouTube videos of how to open one with a cheap biro: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/LahDQ2ZQ3e0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/o-LWGJzglho?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's another brand with a flat key (or you can't get the key out), and you have access to an angle grinder then this might be of interest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/4XTYEcQAurs?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T20:46:41.917" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:46:41.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-09-12T20:22:30.420" Score="64" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Bicycle-Shaped Object (BSO)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A derogatory term for a very cheaply produced bike with very low quality components. The components can be hard to maintain due to poor tolerances. BSOs are often sold at non-specialty retail stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/45177/what-is-the-origin-of-bso-and-is-it-internationally-recognized&quot;&gt;The etymology&lt;/a&gt; of the term is uncertain. It appears in use in some parts of the English-speaking world. It may originate in the UK, as discussed at the link. Other languages may use terms equivalent to supermarket bike or department store bike. These terms are likely to be understood in English as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gWa5V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example BSO&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance the BSO pictured is being sold in the UK by ASDA (owned by Walmart) for £75. These bikes tend to be mass produced and sold in flat pack boxes for self-assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purchasers of lower-end bicycles tend to be less experienced cyclists who focus on price. Many BSOs carry features which are included for marketing purposes but are unnecessary for the typical end-user. Such features may include front and rear suspension, wide off-road style tyres and an excessive number of gear ratios. For cyclists who are riding on city streets or smooth trails, these features are unnecessary. Including these features reduces the budget available for better components elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is more advisable to search for a cheap second-hand bike in a similar price range from a more experienced cyclist or on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sports.shop.ebay.co.uk/Bikes-/33503/i.html?LH_TopRatedSellers=1&amp;amp;LH_FS=1&amp;amp;LH_Price=30..%40c&amp;amp;_trkparms=65%253A2%257C66%253A2%257C39%253A1&amp;amp;_catref=1&amp;amp;_dmpt=UK_Bikes_GL&amp;amp;_mPrRngCbx=1&amp;amp;_sc=1&amp;amp;_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&amp;amp;_sop=12&amp;amp;_sc=1&amp;amp;_qi=RTM729972&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;eBay&lt;/a&gt; than to go for one of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T22:55:52.783" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-12T20:22:30.420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2010-09-12T20:24:50.093" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you have 2 basic choices: (1) remove the key from the lock and unlock it with a backup copy of the key, (2) defeat the lock.  Option #2 is an awful lot like asking how to steal a bike...   Also, option #2 really depends a lot on the specifics of your lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricate the lock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's anything sticking out, try grasping it with needlenose pliers, nail clippers or something like that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's nothing sticking out, you can try a thin bit of metal along the side of the key with the teeth.  Or a couple sewing needles, or maybe a pair of thin tweezers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also worth trying giving the lubricant a little bit of time, then bang the lock against something, trying to get the key to fall out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May be worth heating the lock; it may expand enough to release the key&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A locksmith might be able to get the broken key out.  No idea if that would be more or less than the bike shop cutting it off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of those things work to get the key out, you have to really defeat the lock.  There are leverage attacks, but those are likely to break the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An angle grinder will get through it in seconds.  If it's a really good lock you might have to make two cuts.  Got any friends into power tools?  Someplace else you can rent or borrow power tools from? You'd need to use a vice to secure the lock so it doesn't move, and be careful not to hit the bike.  And all the other appropriate safety measures...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An electric hacksaw would, I think, take a bit longer but still not tire your arm out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A hacksaw should work, but it's slow. It's likely that the price of a new hacksaw with the right kind of blade could be as much as taking it to a bike shop...  Might need a second blade...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it was possible to close the lock without the key inserted, it should be possible to defeat it with a shim: cut away any rubber from the locking end of the U, cut a wide strip of aluminum from an aluminum soda can, wrap the strip around the U, slide it into the lock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can get a car jack inside the lock without hurting the bike, you can spread the lock open.  Most U-locks only lock on one side, the other side is an L joint, so if you spread it far enough the L will release. Or it might just break the U.  Be very careful with your bike doing this, of course.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;: I've never done any of these. I'm mostly only aware of those techniques in order to know what to look for when buying a bike lock. Only lock I've ever defeated was a simple combination lock back in the 80s that you could pull on and slowly spin the dials to feel what the combination was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T20:24:50.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="816" CreationDate="2010-09-12T21:18:04.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheaper one will probably work reasonably well, but (crucial point) you'll &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to use a dishing tool with it. With reasonably careful adjustment, a TS-2 can substitute for a dishing tool most of the time (i.e., anytime the dishing isn't &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; critical). You need a dishing tool to adjust the stand, but you only rarely need to use it otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastEditorUserId="394" LastEditDate="2010-09-12T21:30:31.363" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T21:30:31.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2010-09-12T21:53:50.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the number and diversity of answers you've already received, you can probably guess at the real fact: there are a lot of possibilities, and it's difficult (at best) to be certain which applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My addition is that there are a few cases that can be nearly impossible to fix. One obvious case in point is titanium bottom bracket cups, &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; installed in an aluminium or titanium bottom bracket shell. For &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; practical purposes, if you decide to use one fo these combinations of parts, you can almost resign yourself up front to some amount of creaking. The creaking isn't a major problem in itself, nor does it necessarily mean there are any other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, it does mean one thing: you have to be extremely careful about maintaining the rest of the bike. You no longer have an instant alert when something is ready to go wrong (and many of the problems that creaking can signal are serious problems -- things you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want happening in the middle of nowhere).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: One other point: back when I was working as a bike mechanic, a couple of us did some testing on the best ways to install crank arms. We eventually decided that greasing was a poor idea -- while it does prevent the crank arm from &quot;binding&quot; prematurely, it also prevents it from really holding well. Worse, when you use grease and torque the crank bolts properly, the crank arm will seat &quot;deeper&quot; on the BB axle. In our testing, this led to cracking the crank arm about 5-10% more often than without grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastEditorUserId="394" LastEditDate="2010-09-12T22:12:06.950" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T22:12:06.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="893" CreationDate="2010-09-12T22:30:37.983" Score="42" ViewCount="29822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a cyclocomputer that measures cadence and I'm not sure what a good speed is or what benefit I would get by altering my natural cadence.  On good, level tarmac, I find myself doing about 75-80 RPM.  I'll get North of 100 when sprinting away from a stoplight, and down in the 50-60 range when mounting a moderate incline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what might impact cadence, but I'm 5'11 (180 centimeters), 150 pounds (68 kilograms, 10.7 stone).  In addition to biking 30-40 miles a week, I do CrossFit, a combination of gymnastic and weightlifting exercises, so I've got quite a bit of raw strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T20:27:41.140" Title="What cadence should I aim for?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="891" CreationDate="2010-09-12T22:55:34.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd rather see at least 70 most of the time, and never drop below 60 if there's any way to avoid it. Then again, I've always pedaled a high cadence -- even now (in my mid-40's) I break 160 RPM sprinting, and on a smooth road, I'm typically around 85-90 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T22:55:34.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="891" CreationDate="2010-09-12T23:06:29.587" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;For any given speed, you can either spin at a higher cadence in a lower gear, or a lower cadence in a higher gear.  The high cadence + low gear combination should reduce the strain on your joints since you don't have to push as hard.  You just have to do it more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to ride around 90rpm and sometimes drift up to 100-110 especially if I'm trying to catch up to or overtake someone.  I'll drop down to 80 for long, steep climbs (seated -- no idea what my cadence is standing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lance Armstrong &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadence_%28cycling%29&quot;&gt;apparently maintains 110rpm&lt;/a&gt; for efficiency.  It took me a while to get used to 90 so I'd suggest building up to it slowly.  Let us know when you can do 110 comfortably!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-12T23:06:29.587" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2010-09-13T02:01:32.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once had someone steal my bike which was locked to a bicycle rack using a U lock. The thieves left the remnants of the lock behind (flaunting their lock defeating abilities at me, I presumed... as if stealing the bike wasn't by itself enough of a kick in the gut... those sons of a motherless goat!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examining the defeated lock, it appeared to have been cut through using a pipe cutter. So, if you decide you need to defeat the lock, that's one thing you can try. I've never tried it, I can't guarantee it will work (plus the lock I owned might have just been particularly vulnerable to that type of attack, I don't know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="146" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T02:01:32.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="856" CreationDate="2010-09-13T04:21:58.527" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.railstotrails.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rails-to-trails&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeleague.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LAB&lt;/a&gt; and others are all great groups who do a lot of good, but not necessarily in your area.  Like the saying goes, &quot;Think globally, act locally&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best form of advocacy is to ride as much as you can.  In the developed world we tend to look at cycling as recreation or a hobby.  As such, many participants drive their bike to the place where they ride their bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more visible you are to your friends, neighbors and co-workers as a cyclist, the better.  The more you ride for transportation, or utility the more 'credibility' you have with those around you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin in your local community. If you ride to the store, restaurant, or library and there is not a convenient place to lock your bike, talk to the manager.  On a couple of occasions I have mentioned to a manager that I and other cyclists like a particular restaurant but we don't visit as often because there is nowhere to lock our bikes other than a chain link fence, or a tree.  Two 'strip malls' now have bike racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, your town or county may have an advocacy group already - join - be active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-13T16:35:48.260" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T16:35:48.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="891" CreationDate="2010-09-13T04:26:45.523" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I became more experienced I noticed that I began to spin at a higher cadence.  I typically stay between 85-95 now, while when I started I spun at around 70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But cadence is a very individual thing, and bike fit can play a large part in how comfortable you are at a particular cadence.  If you find that you want to pedal faster, but have difficulty maintaining that cadence you might investigate slightly shorter cranks. By the same token, you may be a Jan Ulrich type, who mashes the pedals with tremendous force but a lower cadence - longer cranks may be the ticket for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, ride at the cadence that feels comfortable to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T04:26:45.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="891" CreationDate="2010-09-13T07:47:58.550" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experience and from what little I've read cadence beats power (and cadence with power is the winner) - in general you want to be turning the pedals more often with less effort in a smooth motion not stomping down each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To which end you probably want your cadence to be in the 90+ region as consistently as possible (including when climbing) I'm not quite sure where the ideal &quot;band&quot; is any more (is been a long while since I looked at this) but I think I was aiming for something like 85 to 105. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do recall, quite vividly, from racing the recumbent round velodromes was that changing down and getting the cadence back in band would usuall result in me going &lt;em&gt;faster&lt;/em&gt; for a similar amount of effort (given that I had very little in reserve at the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that most of us (definitely the case for me at the moment) don't use a high enough cadence and I believe it is worth making the effort to pay attention to and to improve your cadence - but it is something you have to positively work at in the first instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T07:47:58.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2010-09-13T08:47:42.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What every you do, make sure you got good ID with you and be nice to the police if they give you a visit while you are trying to remove the lock.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have other keys, be very carefully not to damage the lock, otherwise a lock smith will find it harder to get out the broken key, otherwise,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, any good lock should not be easy to defeat, if the cost of defeating the lock is less than the 2nd hand value of the bike, then you should have brought a better lock in the first place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike someone stealing your bike, you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don’t mind spending a long time defeating the lock,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don’t mind making a lot of noise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don’t mind “&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikicrimeline.co.uk/index.php?title=Going_equipped_for_stealing_etc.&quot;&gt;going equipped&lt;/a&gt;” &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you do have a chance…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find if you phone the direct phone number of your local fire station and ask for advice they will be helpful.   &lt;strong&gt;However do not call the emergency number.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T08:47:42.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="856" CreationDate="2010-09-13T08:57:10.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Showing example is a great way for cycling advocacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People around me take usage of car for granted. But when they see me riding my bike everyday for working, for shopping or just for the pleasure of cycling, they start to question their behaviour. There is still a long way before they are converted but the seed has been injected in their mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T08:57:10.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2010-09-13T10:40:17.677" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have air shocks, front or rear, be mindful of temperature impact on pressure. If you store your bike at about +20 C (room temperature) and ride it out into -10 to -20 C (seriously freezing weather), after a moment you will experience about 10% pressure drop in your shocks (and tires, too). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While 10% is not much, it can cause a noticeable change in shock's characteristics i.e. cause it to become softer. Of course, in winter that may not be such a bad thing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T10:40:17.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2010-09-13T12:31:41.210" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all for anything to work you must &lt;strong&gt;be visible&lt;/strong&gt;.  I have a few reflective straps on my backpack and I turn the lights on when it's darkish. I don't believe it can hurt you. Lights are much more effective safety measure than a helmet. &lt;strike&gt;The biggest cause of bike accidents are cars not giving way and running over the cyclist from behind.&lt;/strike&gt; Bikers cause less than a half of the biker-involved accidents, primary biker death cause in Poland last year are not giving way either on intersections or crossings -- over 70%, another 7% is inappropriate lighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the cars in front of me: I wear a &lt;strong&gt;hat with a big Jolly Roger&lt;/strong&gt;. I guess the producer was targeting Emo children, but it fits perfectly and I even get away with driving in the left lane (everybody thinks I'm crazy). As mentioned, eye contact is very important. If in doubt I always aim at the rear of the car and just get back into the traffic behind it. Predict and be ready for the worst case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the cars behind you just don't keep so close to the curb and only &lt;strong&gt;get closer when you hear a car approaching&lt;/strong&gt;. This buys me enough space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastEditorUserId="406" LastEditDate="2010-10-07T10:29:02.937" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T10:29:02.937" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="891" CreationDate="2010-09-13T13:57:46.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you start bouncing in the saddle, then your cadence is too high and you should back it down some...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T13:57:46.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="904" CreationDate="2010-09-13T14:16:41.973" Score="8" ViewCount="2765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see lots of cadence-related questions on here where people cite fairly specific cadence rates.  How do you calculate your cadence exactly?  Do you just set a one-minute timer on your bike computer and count them manually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T16:54:01.217" Title="How do you measure your cadence?" Tags="&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="903" CreationDate="2010-09-13T14:31:14.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding, cycle computers can calculate this for you.  For example, Specialized has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=35126&amp;amp;eid=5136&amp;amp;menuItemId=9310&quot;&gt;accessories&lt;/a&gt; for adding cadence sensors to some of their computers.  This seems to me to be the simplest way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=cycle+computers+with+cadence+sensors&quot;&gt;plenty of listings&lt;/a&gt; for them on Google.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T14:31:14.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="791" CreationDate="2010-09-13T14:41:15.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your chain is too long, and you are in the 'small-small' combination, it is possible for the derailleur to sort of fold up on itself. Flip your bike over and put it in the smallest gear up front and the smallest gear in the rear and make sure the chain isn't rubbing on the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T14:41:15.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="912" CreationDate="2010-09-13T15:19:55.180" Score="7" ViewCount="665" Body="&lt;p&gt;My heart rate monitor has a feature that measures my drop in heart rate over a 60 second resting period.  It is suppose to just be a measure of heart fitness (the faster the drop the better your heart), but I haven't been able to come up with a consistent way to use it.  Should I start just casually pedaling? Stop pedaling? Stop the bike? Get off the bike?  The biggest drop I get is I get off the bike and sit down on a bench, but I'm not going for biggest, I'm just trying to figure out how I should measure it that would give me a result that I could compare to my other results and maybe compare to a chart of values and how good they are if such a chart exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="408" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T08:28:59.683" Title="How should I measure my 60 second resting heart rate?" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2010-09-13T15:23:48.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a two-mode approach: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;be predictable&lt;/strong&gt; (drive with the rules) or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;be invisible&lt;/strong&gt; (don't give time to react if you break the rules).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to use the latter, when there is little traffic or in traffic jams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T15:23:48.943" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-13T15:23:48.943" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="52" CreationDate="2010-09-13T15:31:48.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer to flat tires was pretty simple.  I added a bottle of Joe's No Flat into each tire (tube).  I have been flat free for at least six months and about 3-4,000kms.  Sort of a minor miracle of sorts.  I live and ride in Thailand and the surrounding countries which all suffer from lots of sharp trash, glass, thorns, nails etc along the highways just waiting to puncture a bike tire.  I have Shrader valves in my tires which makes installing the sealant easy as you can remove the valve core and just squeeze in the liquid sealant.  Presta valves present a bigger problem as you cannot normally remove the valve core. My solution to this dilemma would be to replace the tube with a Shrader valve and drill out the rim to accept the larger valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mike" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T15:31:48.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="917" CreationDate="2010-09-13T16:49:23.600" Score="10" ViewCount="7958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some Sennheiser PMX70 headphones that I quite like, in particular because the around-the-neck design allows me to quickly drop them down onto my neck and out of my ears.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G60fR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sennheiser PMX70&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing that I don't like about them is they create a lot of wind noise, which makes it hard to hear both what I'm listening to and ambient noise.  Can anyone recommend headphones of similar style with low wind noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For discussion on safety of cycling with music, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/623/17&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T14:21:24.757" Title="Headphones with low wind noise?" Tags="&lt;wind&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-05-02T17:44:18.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="903" CreationDate="2010-09-13T16:54:01.217" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a cycling computer to do this for you, you can just count the top (or bottom) pedal strokes on one side for 15 secs and multiply the strokes by 4. That'll be your cadence. It's close enough for the casual cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T16:54:01.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="907" CreationDate="2010-09-13T17:00:57.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual recommendation is to just pedal slowly and then take the measurement. If your recovery rate is 12BPM or less, you should go see a doctor. A very fit person would recover 40+BPM. Someone who engages in regular cardio exercise would probably see recovery rates of 20+. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a HRM function that I use only a few times a year; like when I get back to real rides in the spring. It's probably most useful for either someone in training or a person starting out on a cardiovascular fitness program. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a chart on the wiki answers link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_a_good_Recovery_heart_rate_level&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_a_good_Recovery_heart_rate_level&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And another:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drmirkin.com/heart/8076.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.drmirkin.com/heart/8076.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-14T15:49:11.923" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T15:49:11.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="910" CreationDate="2010-09-13T18:07:38.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/623/238&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; before deciding to ride with earphones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always wear a hat that covers your ears to block the wind. I think that most in-ear phones will be affected by wind, maybe you could try some over-the-ears types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="238" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T18:07:38.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2010-09-13T18:37:23.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixed gear bicycles have their advantages but I'm gonna say that braking is not one of them. The guys who uphold fixed-gear wheel braking seem to forget two major factors: A. With any form of braking, rear-wheel braking is nowhere near the power of front-wheel braking and B. With all the skid-braking on a fixed-gear, don't you create 'flat spots' and wear the tire out sooner? It's probably cheaper in the long run to regularly buy new brake pads than new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can say without a doubt that disc brakes are hands down the most powerful and reliable for any bicycle. Even when disc brake pads are worn out and not tuned... they still manage to perform better than anything else. For me the biggest advantage is wet-weather performance. You can be going through a monsoon and they will still be able to lock-up your wheel (good!). I commute all year, all seasons including winter blizzards. Are disc brake systems heavier? Sure... but we are talking ounces. Are they more expensive? Yes. Anyways these negatives don't out-weight the benefit of performance in my books. I've put my SRAM X0's through 30,000km's roughly and they are still going strong. I've gone through about 3 pairs of pads. Only thing I will say about them is I wish they used less recycled metals because recycled metals corrode faster in this salty winter environment (Canada).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="MongoBo" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T18:37:23.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26" CreationDate="2010-09-13T19:01:27.197" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I eventually learned to live with it. I've tried different brake pads, and even ones that claim to be less noisy. No difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really what we're talking about is the same thing behind rubbing a finger on a wine glass, or scratching chalk across a blackboard. &quot;Slip-stick motion&quot;. What really makes it loud, I think, is the high tension bicycle wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree... it's really embarassing, especially when pulling up to a stop. Everyone around thinks some train is stopping haha, or they think your brakes don't work. Quite the contrary, they are working pretty good actually!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="MongoBo" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T19:01:27.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="910" CreationDate="2010-09-13T19:52:32.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a pair of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB770G/B?fnode=MTY1NDA0Ng&amp;amp;mco=MTM3NDk2ODg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic Apple ear buds&lt;/a&gt; that came with my iPod Shuffle for riding.  I've found that they put out &quot;ok&quot; quality sound (not as good as my Sennheisers), but the open-air design of them lets a lot of road noise through, as well.  I can hear almost any car coming up behind me (including hybrids), and can hear about 90% of the bicycles coming up to pass as well.  As for dropping them down around your neck, I usually take my ear buds out and slip them in the neck of my shirt.  They might look like funny little lumps on your chest at first glance, but it is obvious what they are after you notice the wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would certainly steer clear of anything with &quot;noise canceling&quot; however.  In the case of ear buds with rubber tips, the rubber is intended to seal out outside noise, like cars.  Bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest perusing &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/623/is-listening-to-music-dangerous-while-cycling&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; about safety concerns.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T19:52:32.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="819" CreationDate="2010-09-13T20:52:01.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Stroker45-21883EnglishWeb.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;install manual&lt;/a&gt;, the &quot;Burnish&quot; period is only 30-40 stops, so you should be beyond that.  If the bike is still within a month or two of purchase, I would suggest taking the bike back to the shop and playing dumb.  They sold you the bike, they should fix the brakes that aren't working properly.  If they say, &quot;they're supposed to do that&quot;, I'd suggest checking with another LBS.  The other LBS may even fix them for free (depending on the problem) just to win your business (after you explain what the other shop had said).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has been longer than that, you can try a few things to see if it is a minor issue.  I don't use Hayes brakes specifically, but here are some good starter ideas that may work to narrow it down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean the rotor&lt;/strong&gt; - Easily done with rubbing alcohol.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use small, single-use, swabs that can usually be found around the diabetic testing equipment at your local pharmacy.  Easy to use and easy to carry with you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean both sides of the rotor.  Inside and out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I keep cleaning until the swabs come back almost entirely white.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check the pads for debris&lt;/strong&gt; - Pull the pads out and look for rocks, plastic, sticks, or anything else that might have gotten embedded in the pads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean the pads&lt;/strong&gt; - Hit the pads with some sand paper to take off the top layer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Center the disk in the caliper&lt;/strong&gt; - This one is in your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Stroker45-21883EnglishWeb.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;install/service manual&lt;/a&gt;.  So for Hayes Stroker Trail brakes:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the caliper mounting bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Squeeze and hold the brake lever.  While holding the brake lever, shake the caliper to position it in its natural centered position over the disc. While squeezing the lever, tighten the mounting bolts.&quot; -- Page 2 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Stroker45-21883EnglishWeb.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;install manual&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This may be different for your braking system (year, features, etc), so check your manual to be sure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ensure the disc is mounted properly&lt;/strong&gt; - Check to ensure that the disc is mounted to the wheels correctly.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Stroker45-21883EnglishWeb.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;install manual for Hayes Stroker Trail&lt;/a&gt; brakes, the disc bolts should be tightened to 50 &lt;strong&gt;in-lbs&lt;/strong&gt; of torque.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WARNING&lt;/strong&gt;:  It is very important to ensure the correct torque is used on the disc mounting bolts.  50 in-lbs of torque isn't very much, so save yourself some heart-ache and use a torque wrench.  Remember, brakes are important.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything beyond that, and I'd take it down to the LBS, let a trained eye take a look (and listen) to them and see what they say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T20:52:01.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2010-09-13T21:27:38.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered trying something with a different application method?  Hosing your chain down with Tri-Flow works, but there is a lot of excess to go along with that.  This summer, I switched from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boeshield.com/lube_oil/t9_bike_info.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;T9&lt;/a&gt; to using motor oil on my chains, and it seems to work well in all the areas you discussed.  I have heard a lot of people don't like using motor oil, but it hasn't let me down yet.  It keeps the chains quiet and happy on both my bikes, even in the worst of rain (puddles up to the bottom bracket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in a fairly cold environment (80F to 20F) so I've been using 30 weight oil, but any weight should work.  I use an oil can with a hand pump (similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=WMR&amp;amp;MfrPartNumber=W54265&amp;amp;CategoryCode=3401&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;), which makes it easy to apply one drop per roller.  After giving the drive train a good spit (keeping the chain moving for a minute or two), you can wipe any excess off the plates.  This allows you to put on just enough lube, without creating a dirt trap, or having lube flinging off onto clothing.  It may sound boring to oil the chain in this way, but after a few runs at it, it becomes quite relaxing.  Still is takes ~5 minutes to lube it up, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T21:27:38.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="852" CreationDate="2010-09-13T22:01:02.587" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the recommendations for heavily training athletes now is to drink a fair amount of carbohydrate within an hour of finishing, in order to replenish glycogen stores in your muscle cells.  Furthermore, the uptake is better in the presence of protein, so there are 'after ride' drink mixes you can spend more hard-earned $$$ on.  My substitute:  chocolate milk!  About 16 ounces, and important to take within an hour of riding.  Stopping at a coffee shop and getting a mocha does the job equally well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T22:01:02.587" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-13T22:01:02.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="923" CreationDate="2010-09-13T22:46:19.667" Score="6" ViewCount="1622" Body="&lt;p&gt;In wet conditions, my current brakes are pretty poor. Without switching to disc brakes, what are my options for v-brake pads that work better in the wet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm only thinking about this for my commuting bike, which is mostly a flat ride to and from work. But sometimes the rain can get pretty heavy this time of year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-14T05:29:36.157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T09:37:14.503" Title="V-Brake pads for wet conditions" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="921" CreationDate="2010-09-13T23:20:19.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to switch to a different compound of brake pad. Your LBS should carry winter pads which may work better in the weather conditions you're asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T23:20:19.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="921" CreationDate="2010-09-13T23:28:29.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck (with cantilever brakes) with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velo-orange.com/vosqfrbrshan.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velo Orange's Squeal-Free Brake pads&lt;/a&gt;, but many people say that the &lt;em&gt;Salmon&lt;/em&gt; compound brake pads from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kool Stop&lt;/a&gt; are the best choice for wet conditions.  The dual-compound Kool Stops are a good idea, since supposedly they work well in all conditions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My LBS stocks brands, but Kool Stop is a much more usual brand of brake pad to carry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general: any brake pads that say they're made for wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-09-13T23:28:29.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2010-09-13T23:55:22.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer White Lightning. The major proviso is that you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; shake it &lt;strong&gt;thoroughly&lt;/strong&gt; before application. It's wax-based, so it generally picks up less dirt than most of the alternatives. You want to wash the &quot;new chain goop&quot; out before the first application, but after that don't normally need to clean the chain at all -- just add more lube every few weeks (or few hundred miles...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I've used that is (or was) better was pure Teflon -- years ago, you could get tubes of pure DuPont Teflon (two varieties, one for bearings, one for chains). It &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; difficult to get the chain thoroughly lubed initially (you basically had to put a tiny droplet at the edge of each roller, then &quot;massage&quot; it in with your fingers), but once you did, it lasted nearly forever. Unfortunately, at least AFAIK, this is no longer made -- but if you happen to run across some for sale, it's well worth grabbing some. In case you care, here's what they look like:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CL5TL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the bearing grease. If memory serves, the chain lube was printed in red instead of blue (and said &quot;chain&quot; instead of &quot;bearing&quot;, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastEditorUserId="394" LastEditDate="2010-09-14T00:06:44.593" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T00:06:44.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="927" CreationDate="2010-09-14T01:13:01.380" Score="13" ViewCount="7689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some foldable racing tyres, still with plenty of tread but with some small cuts through the tread &amp;amp; cloth.  Can I do anything to them or are they destined for the bin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T23:29:23.727" Title="How can I repair a tyre with a deep cut?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2010-09-14T01:18:45.110" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something for you to consider is whether or not looking unsafe is indeed a good goal. Part of the reason drivers don't know how to react to cyclists is that there &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; many who behave like idiots; riding the wrong way, swerving all over the road, ninja cycling, and so on. Part of safe cycling is riding in a predictable manner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The passing-closer-without-a-helmet thing is not particularly convincing. I've seen two articles about it, and both involved informal or anecdotal data. The linked article's &quot;US data&quot;... well, I haven't see it, so I'm somewhat skeptical. On the other hand, cars &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; give me more room when I'm pulling my bright yellow cargo trailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the solution here is to simply increase your visibility and your apparent width (although pulling a trailer all the time seems like a problem). A trunk bag or panniers with a bright yellow cover might do the trick, or a safety vest, or even a safety triangle on the back of your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T01:18:45.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="925" CreationDate="2010-09-14T01:32:55.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to patch the tire with a &lt;strong&gt;tire boot&lt;/strong&gt;, which you should be able to pick up at your LBS. It's basically a rubber patch that you apply to the inside of the tire, where a gash is. Similar to a tube patch, but thicker. There's all sorts of things that people use for makeshift boots, too, such as a $1 bill. The important thing with a boot is that it prevents the tube from herniating through the gash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/emergency-tire-boot-tb-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tools Emergency Tire Boot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="7374" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T23:29:23.727" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T23:29:23.727" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2010-09-14T02:39:04.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of cheap flags on little plastic sticks sticking out to the sides a foot or two (horizontally - perhaps from above the rear tyre, if you've got a rack there to tie them to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They won't damage the car, but the driver won't want to hit them anyway, giving you a nice buffer (plus, you'll look unsafe, in many senses of the word).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="351" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T02:39:04.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-14T07:32:23.030" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wearing headphones while cycling is a bad idea even if only one ear-bud is in use.  I do my best to devote complete attention to the road and my surroundings while I'm riding.  For hearing folks, sound is a critical device to alert a rider to impending danger.  During my daily commute I frequently am alerted to potential hazards by sound before I see a problem.  Here are a few examples I have experienced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cars parked along the road are often innocuous, but occasionally a vehicle will be occupied while warming up.  I've narrowly avoided being hit as the car prepared to enter the road by hearing the vehicle first and adjusting accordingly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most dogs bark loudly enough to be heard even over headphones, but one morning as I was riding through a neighborhood I heard a faint sound similar to leaves skittering across the road in the wind.  Yet, there was no wind.  I turned around and a dog had nearly run up to me from behind without making a sound except the slight patter of paws.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too often cyclists are injured or killed on the road.  Be safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T07:32:23.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2010-09-14T09:09:57.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as these great answers I think it's also important to set a good example when driving. Before I cycled on the roads (I used to be purely offroad rider) I never gave much thought to cyclists, just squeezed past like everyone else. Now I do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow down as soon as I get near a cyclist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put my indicators on, ready to overtake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for a suitable place to overtake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the &lt;em&gt;whole&lt;/em&gt; of the other lane for my overtaking manuevoure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move back in, ensuring I've left the cyclist plenty of room&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like obvious stuff, but I've been watching the drivers behind me in my rear-view mirror and a lot of them will copy the same overtaking manuevoure as you. The more drivers we can get to overtake safely, the safer we'll all be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T09:09:57.233" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-14T09:09:57.233" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="921" CreationDate="2010-09-14T09:37:14.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally reccomend using switchable brake pads like these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/UNBVPNN3C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/UNBVPNN3C&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They last pretty long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also useful to clean them after muddy ride or use a file to clean its surface (it should be flat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T09:37:14.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="925" CreationDate="2010-09-14T09:40:42.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If tire is heavily cut, it should not be used for racing anymore. It can be repaired, but give it to someone who rides on pavement only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T09:40:42.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="910" CreationDate="2010-09-14T09:42:11.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not exactly the same category, but I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://asia.creative.com/products/product.asp?category=244&amp;amp;subcategory=823&amp;amp;product=17088&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Creative Aurvana Live!&lt;/a&gt; They cut off most of the sound from outside (including wind), so you need to rely on your sight more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T09:42:11.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="821" CreationDate="2010-09-14T10:49:19.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd avoid anything with deep (aerodynamic) rims as the wheel will be stiffer and less comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T10:49:19.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2010-09-14T11:15:57.840" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't like the way they look (and frankly, no man looks good in lycra shorts), you can  wear a pair of lycra shorts with baggy shorts (or trousers) over the top - that way you still get all the comfort benefits with none of the style penalties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T11:15:57.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="368" CreationDate="2010-09-14T11:54:52.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For every ride I take:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A multitool with allen keys and a chain tool &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare tubes (at least 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyre Levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instant Puncture Patches (mine are from Park Tools). I'd always use my spare tubes first though&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plenty of water/energy drink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My phone, keys, and wallet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless I know the area very well I'll also have relevant maps and a compass, and my GPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm going somewhere remote, or for a day ride, I also take:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Food (more than I will need, and some energy bars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First aid kit (geared towards cuts/bruises and breaks/dislocations)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whistle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare batteries for anything that needs them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waterproof jacket and, in cold seasons, warm clothes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A headtorch if there's any chance that it'll get dark while I'm out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T11:54:52.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="939" CreationDate="2010-09-14T11:55:47.803" Score="52" ViewCount="10992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently saw a small clip about how to securely lock your bike. &#xA;I was wondering what are your tips for minimizing the chances of getting your bike stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/oPDHPpnXPv8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few of my tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use 2 chains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take the saddle off ( makes it less attractive, especially in a bike rack )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T20:47:10.183" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T17:09:58.447" Title="Locking your bike in public areas" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-14T12:15:36.213" Score="11" ViewCount="4574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a turbo trainer for winter training last year, but the hassle of using it (lugging my bike up the steps and into my narrow apartment, changing the wheel to one with a trainer tyre, setting up something to watch at the same time, getting the bike computer set up right), plus the noise (the NOISE!) whenever I get up to a decent speed, mean I probably won't be using it much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was thinking of getting a standalone exercise bike instead, figuring it will be easier for me to hop on when I feel like it and less noisy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: (to make it less subjective):&#xA;What I'd like to know is what are the drawbacks of using an exercise bike when you're used to riding a road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2010-10-16T15:19:20.813" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T07:00:04.753" Title="Is an exercise bike good enough for keeping fit in the winter, rather than a turbo trainer" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2010-09-14T12:49:21.527" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lock related&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a better lock than the bike next to yours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the very least get a lock such as this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycleworkshop.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b1s93p186&quot;&gt;http://www.bicycleworkshop.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b1s93p186&lt;/a&gt; they are relatively difficult to break and are easy to operate meaning you'll lock your bike as a matter of course.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use a cable lock. Bolt cutters snip them in like 5 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Location&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a U-lock or solid chain lock (links thicker than 12mm) to attach your bike to something, but (and this is important) never lock your bike to something that would make it inconvenient for someone else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock the bike to something solid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never leave your nice bike outside overnight or for extended periods of time during the day (but you're already doing this because you don't want to leave your precious bike out in the rain right?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it should be in a reasonably populated, busy area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you park in one area frequently, try to move around a bit - thieves might notice a decent bike often in the same place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike Tips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a cheap, ugly secondhand bike for city use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get allen key skewers as opposed to quick release&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your lights and/or cycle computers with you, not on the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2016-09-24T07:38:00.890" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T07:38:00.890" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-14T19:26:01.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2010-09-14T12:52:36.857" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lock the bike to something solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the bike somewhere it is in view of a lot of people and lit if at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to put your bike next to other bikes that are worth more and don’t have as good locks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using two different desings of locks is a good option, but you then need to transport both locks – see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/236/lock-for-extremely-frequent-use&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/141/best-bike-lock&quot;&gt;questions&lt;/a&gt; on locks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may find you enjoy yourself better if you have a cheaper bike that you are not so concerned about being stolen.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T11:33:51.830" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-14T19:26:01.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2010-09-14T12:56:57.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you must lock your bike in a public, unsecure area, firstly make the environment as hard to work in for the thief as possible: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ideally make sure it's well lit &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it shouldn't be hidden away in a dark alley &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it should be in a reasonably populated, busy area &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, even if your bike looks attractive, the thief isn't going to be able to be particularly keen on working over your preventative measures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a harsh tip, but make your bike look less attractive: muddy, tape, bad paint job, old. I know bikes are about self-image, but if your bike doesn't stack up well against the one next to you, then they'll go for that one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove all bits that are easily removed. Replace your Quick Release seat stems and wheel skewers with lockable ones. On my commute bike I carry a spanner, not a QR wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T12:56:57.720" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-14T19:26:01.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="938" CreationDate="2010-09-14T13:00:36.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The noise will always be an issue and it will depend on your personal space issues, but I went on gumtree (a London equivalent of craigslist) and got a dirt cheap, old beat up road bike as my turbo bike - at least that would remove the hassle of lugging it up and down the stairs. That way, I wasn't killing my normal road machines, nor did I have to reset everything every time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tri club often did classes on spin bikes, but I just didn't get on with them. I found that exercise bikes just aren't the same as even a turbo, IME. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T13:00:36.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="821" CreationDate="2010-09-14T13:00:48.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Larger wheels are more comfortable, so 28&quot; instead of 26&quot;, or even 29&quot; but they need to fit your frame (you should check).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More narrow wheels will reduce rolling resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less profile in your tires will reduce rolling resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;higher pressure in your innertube will reduce rolling resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for commuting a puncture resistant tire such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/marathon-plus.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the schwalbe marathon plus&lt;/a&gt; is very nice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In googling this question I came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.terrymorse.com/bike/rolres.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; which shows that there is quite a difference between different tire types, also, whatever the tire type, increasing the pressure will reduce resistance (probably at the expense of some durability)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T13:07:32.683" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T13:07:32.683" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-14T13:04:33.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cycle with one ear in (on the nearside), that way I can still hear the road-side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that some disagree, but in my experience, this is enough to get me by. It's no more distracting than a car having its radio on - albeit we are more exposed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to listen to podcasts and I frequently realise that I haven't actually been paying attention to the content because of the road conditions, so while it &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be distracting, my experience is that your brain knows what to prioritise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T13:04:33.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="938" CreationDate="2010-09-14T14:23:26.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife &amp;amp; I &quot;share&quot; an exercise bike, mainly because we don't have room for it as well as my wind trainer :-(  It was fairly cheap, from Aldi, so you might want to keep an eye out for one.  I don't mind it, as it is easily adjusted and quiet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The only thing I would change if I could would be the seat.  It is a typical exercise style one and is way to short and wide.&#xA;In terms of training, I find that I can get just as good a workout with it compared to the wind trainer.  And since it is quiet I get more chance to do so, since I can ride either early in the morning or later at night without disturbing others.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The only minus is that it has a funny shaped pair of bars and after a while I get rather bored with the hand positions.  I find that the road bike's drop bars give me more variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T14:23:26.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2010-09-14T14:50:08.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make it a habit to remove all the lights &amp;amp; computer &amp;amp; lock the bike in a VERY public area for short stints.  If I am on tour and check into a hotel I will take the bike into my room with me or make arrangements with the lobby staff to keep it locked in the lobby.  I haven't had a problem with any of the hotels (big or small) regarding security of the bike once I explain the situation to them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="mike" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T14:50:08.370" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-14T19:26:01.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="910" CreationDate="2010-09-14T15:30:32.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a combination of a single earbud (currently Sennheiser CX380s) with a head band (I've 3 Assos headbands in rotation: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&amp;amp;ModelID=38937&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&amp;amp;ModelID=38937&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headband both stops the sweat rolling into the eyes but also routes the wind around the ear. (I do generally wear a lid, so the headband doesn't look so daft.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T15:30:32.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-09-14T16:20:51.373" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Barcelona&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barcelona has had a bike sharing program for about 3 years now, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicing.cat/localizaciones/localizaciones.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicing&lt;/a&gt;. Overall it's been a success with a huge amount of people signing up and using them every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that didn't work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike stations weren't properly designed, it was easy to steal bikes. They have fixed this recently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lever to secure the seat was too small and people had trouble loosening it, they've now put huge levers on all bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first bikes weren't at all reliable, for about 6 months I had trouble finding bikes that didn't have one or more of: tyres/brakes/seat/handlebar/chain/gears broken. I haven't used the service much in the last year because I got my own bike, but the times I have they have seemed more reliable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike availability and parking spot availability. Stations that are on the top of hilly areas are always empty and stations near busy areas are always full. Solving this would require a lot more micromanagement of the bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead of making an accessible web service for checking bike availability they decided to make an iPhone only app. This boggles my mind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that it's a great service when there aren't problems (I got charged 20 EUR when either the bike I had used got stolen or their system had a stroke and their records showed me having a bike for 8 hours, when I'd returned it after 26 minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People have criticised using vans to micromanage the bikes, arguing that it offsets any ecological gains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It initially cost 20 EUR/year, and is now 30 EUR/year. The pricing is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First 30 min free.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every 30 min after, and up to 2 hours total, 0.50 EUR.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 2 hours, 3 EUR per hour until you return the bike. After this happens 3 times you get kicked off the service.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steal a bike: 150 EUR.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="420" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T01:08:37.387" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-14T16:20:51.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2010-09-14T16:52:15.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK the answer is almost always no, but over and above other rules (e.g. dangerous or furious cycling, cycling in a no-cycling area) there are some exceptions, e.g. the Royal Parks - there is a 20mph in Richmond Park which, because it has its own Act of Parliament, &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; also for bikes - and people are done for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, strictly, you'd be issued with a Fixed Penalty, not arrested. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T16:52:15.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-09-14T17:04:22.703" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;London&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;London Cycle Hire Scheme:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much of the demand appears to come from commuters arriving at rail termini and avoiding the underground. Together with the journey home this causes major tidal problems. It seems as if this usage pattern is being supported (by using lorries to ferry bikes around).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limited placement of stands near tube and train stations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Despite being based on an existing scheme, rushed implementation (and presumably bad contract negotiation) means some things have been botched: It uses an entirely separate system to that used on the tube, buses and local rail (Oyster). Web site being unavailable. Getting journeys from other customers appear on your usage report (which indicates hopeless coding). If you have more than one key, you get a charged an access charge for all the keys even if you make a single journey.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anecdotally, there have been issues with serious overcharging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Theirs no basket and no panniers. Storage is limited to a small shelf with a bungee cord.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's been problems with the bikes either having their brakes permanently rubbing or not working well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can be difficult to find a docking station. (Shaftesbury Avenue, I'm looking at you.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some people find the it hard to pull out bikes from the stands and push them back in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bikes are laughably heavy and the three gears are all low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scheme is currently on around 15,000 journeys a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Boris Bike:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boris Bike is a bike sharing scheme in London, the &amp;quot;Boris&amp;quot; part comes from the mayor's name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barclays_Cycle_Hire&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on Barclays Cycle Hire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's also a small &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.borisbikes.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boris Bikes community forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D8FB7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/stewdean/4941349972/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Photo credit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T19:30:22.580" CommentCount="11" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-14T17:04:22.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2010-09-14T19:23:47.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure that the object that you're locking to is actually firmly attached to the ground. I've seen enough poorly maintained bike racks where it's possible to lift up one end and work the chain or lock around. Also, locking up to a pole, parking meter or sign? are you sure that no one is going to lift your bike over the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you can find one, I suggest always locking up to a well maintained public fixture meant for locking bikes to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T19:23:47.770" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-14T19:23:47.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2010-09-14T20:15:18.937" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In France, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycode.org/html/pg_htm/summary.php&quot;&gt;bike coding system&lt;/a&gt; exists. It consists of a unique engraved code and a central database indicating the owner of the coded bike and whether it has been stolen. This both makes the bike less attractive and easier to recover when stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course all the advices about locks are relevant even with this system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T20:15:18.937" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-14T20:15:18.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-09-14T20:26:56.860" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Paris&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(and surrounding areas)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In France, there is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velib.paris.fr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vélib&lt;/a&gt;' system operated by a private company with subsidies of the city. The same company operates the same system in many other cities: Lyon, Nantes, Toulouse, Marseille, Caen, Besançon, Nice and probably others that I am not aware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of such systems is that the population of bikes on the streets is increased and automobilists become more careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T07:33:40.487" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-14T20:26:56.860" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="964" CreationDate="2010-09-14T20:28:42.977" Score="15" ViewCount="18658" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might take a little explaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got stuff on my bike that removes easily and could be stolen: head light, tail light, cyclometer. If I'm riding to a concert or something, I don't want to lug that kind of stuff around in my pockets, but I don't want to leave it sitting out on my bike for thieves, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for some kind of small bag or pouch made from a tough material (like those locking bags banks use for deposits) that could be locked to the bike. I'm imagining something with a sturdy strap that would fit through an opening on the other side, so you could then feed your U-lock or chain through the loop, thus locking the bag shut and to the bike at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever seen anything like this? Is this overkill for a problem with a simpler solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T21:48:01.147" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T18:26:55.397" Title="Ever seen a locking bag that could be locked to the bike?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-14T20:55:51.847" Score="12" ViewCount="1322" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, while out riding my bike, I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; dislike having a backpack on.  I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.trekbikes.com/jump.jsp?sort=2&amp;amp;bShopOnline=0&amp;amp;itemID=978&amp;amp;itemType=PRODUCT&amp;amp;RS=1&amp;amp;keyword=racks&amp;amp;CatID=186&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trek luggage rack&lt;/a&gt; on my bicycle and would love to find something that could attach to it, capable of holding a 17&quot; laptop, preferably in a hard case, with padding.  I would really hate to lose the laptop (or its drive stability) to a fall/crash or even just the basic road vibrations and bumps...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen a product like this, or potentially know a good way to build something like this? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="104" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-14T21:14:09.023" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T00:41:57.387" Title="Luggage rack attachments for laptops?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="959" CreationDate="2010-09-14T21:03:34.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can get/addapt a hard saddlebags for motorcycles.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dwnw6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="169" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T21:03:34.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="960" CreationDate="2010-09-14T21:17:29.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet for weatherproof and crash worthiness is going to be a pelican case. They have a whole series of cases for laptops.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pelican.ca/case_group_search.php?CaseGroup=Laptop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pelican.ca/case_group_search.php?CaseGroup=Laptop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've personally taken a 'hardback' case on a paddling trip and it held up great. Many pelican products also have a warranty against failure as well so if the product does leak you've at least got a new case and a replacement laptop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get one of their other cases you can also lock the case which will assist in keeping it secure from a thief. Yeah it's not going to stop a determined person but at the least it will give you time to realize and change any vital personal information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Past that make sure you backup your data with something like Mozy.com. At some point you'll have a drive failure no matter what. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-09-15T00:18:59.633" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T00:18:59.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2010-09-14T21:59:43.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a big city, ride frequently, and have had a couple of bikes stolen. These days, I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a modest bike,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to lock up in a visible place,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't leave my bike outside overnight,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep my lights in my bag, not on the bike,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a good U lock, no bigger than needed, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use locking skewers to keep my wheels and seat from going places.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, following this approach, I have had the same bike at least 5 years, with nothing stolen from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="430" LastActivityDate="2010-09-14T21:59:43.980" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-14T21:59:43.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="959" CreationDate="2010-09-14T22:16:21.307" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you mean something like this from &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00E8BK6LU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PacSafe&lt;/a&gt; it's got a secure steel mesh inside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bJvcO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember using one of their bigger backpack bags when travelling to New Zealand a few years ago, and the only complaints I had were from the TSA when we went through the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively if you have a rack on the back, then it may be possible to attach a lockable box to that in some secure way. Although my worry would be that anyone who noticed such a box, would immediately wonder what was locked up inside and decide to break it open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="36069" LastEditDate="2017-12-30T07:08:05.967" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T07:08:05.967" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-14T23:32:56.920" Score="8" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Light and Motion Seca 700 with a Lithium Ion battery.  It has a multi-chem smart charger.  I have heard that some batteries like NiMH have &quot;memory&quot; and should be mostly drained before recharging, while a LiIon battery is not supposed to have &quot;memory.&quot;  How should I charge the battery to insure a long run time and battery life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T01:06:00.347" Title="What is the best charging practice for my bike light's lithium ion battery?" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="965" CreationDate="2010-09-15T00:11:56.293" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should fully charge the battery after every use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignore outdated concerns about early NiCad batteries that exhibited a '&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel-cadmium_battery#Memory_and_lazy_battery_effects&quot;&gt;memory effect&lt;/a&gt;' when discharged repeatedly to the same Depth of Discharge (DOD)/ State of Charge (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/State_of_charge&quot;&gt;SOC&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all secondary (rechargeable) batteries will benefit from regular, complete charging.  The less you discharge a battery, the more total lifetime capacity you will get from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, If you take the same battery and regularly use 25% of it's capacity then charge it, you will get C Wh of capacity out of it over its lifetime.  If you do the same, but use 95% of its capacity, you may find you only get 0.5C Wh over its lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding Lithium batteries generally, it is &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; important to use the correct &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-ion_polymer_battery#Charging&quot;&gt;charger&lt;/a&gt; for the battery, or the correct mode on a multi-chemistry charger.  Otherwise there may be a fire...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="396" LastEditorUserId="396" LastEditDate="2010-09-15T01:06:00.347" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T01:06:00.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1004" CreationDate="2010-09-15T02:02:51.887" Score="11" ViewCount="68641" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crashes are an inevitability in cycling. This weekend, I hit a 4&quot; stick on my bike. It flipped over, stuck in the spokes of my front wheel and did this to it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FFKVj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It stopped my bike really quickly and I wound up flying over the handlebars, and earned a trip to the local ER where they spent an hour scrubbing the road out of my face, arms and shoulder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what tips and tricks do you folks have for recovering quickly (and without scarring) from road rash? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastEditorUserId="295" LastEditDate="2010-09-15T16:56:40.913" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T00:15:21.253" Title="What do you do to cure road rash more quickly after a crash?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2010-09-15T02:20:22.650" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One suggestion:  Neosporin.  Every time you change a bandage, wash it out and slather that stuff on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T02:20:22.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2010-09-15T02:53:09.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First is getting the hair and dirt out of the wound, which it sounds like the ER has done for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first 24-48 hours, I've found the gel bandages to vastly improve the time it takes road rash to heal.  They seem to wick away a lot of the fluids which build up on a fresh wound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get something similar from playing goalkeeper on occasion.  I'm unsure of the exact science involved, but as the bandages never seem to be able to get 100% coverage, it is easy to see exactly which areas have the bandages and which don't.  The area under the bandage heals considerable faster and the scabbing comes out much smoother and flush with the skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T02:53:09.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="960" CreationDate="2010-09-15T03:38:01.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The case below is not a hard case but it is well padded, and attaches securely with very little sway. It also includes a rain cover. It's my favorite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikewagon.com/Jandd-19-inch-Laptop/Bike-Accessories/Bags/Panniers-Rack-Bags-p8557116.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jandd 19 inch laptop case&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also used padded sleeves and just slipped them in either my messenger bag or one of my panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen a hard case that attaches to bike rack but there certainly may be one out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T03:38:01.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="236" CreationDate="2010-09-15T03:58:06.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple solution to &lt;em&gt;part&lt;/em&gt; of your question -- that of scratching up your bike while removing the chain: I used to have a chain lock with a plastic sleeve, to prevent just this. You could probably find a similar sleeve in any hardware store, just use some inexpensive transparent tubing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T03:58:06.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="925" CreationDate="2010-09-15T04:08:13.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the cuts are very small (1mm as you posted above) then there's not need to do anything.  Normal punctures -- especially from glass -- are liable to leave that size of cut.  I've used a tire this season for at least 3000km which accumulated many such minor cuts -- I only replaced it last week because it was getting far too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to watch out for larger cuts though -- anything that the tube might bulge out through.  The sidewalls are especially susceptible to this since they're thinner and gashes squeeze open wider where the tire meets the ground.  My rule of thumb is if you can see the tube through the tire, even if you have to pinch it open, then it's probably done.  Put a tire boot in to limp home but replace the tire as soon as possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T04:08:13.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-08-02T21:29:51.950" Score="30" ViewCount="3703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to get a computer for my bicycle to give me some more information when I go on rides.  I have seen and used several that belong to friends, and while they seem invaluable, the one feature they all lacked was data logging(more than simple avg. speed, avg. cadence, etc.) and the ability to pull that data onto my computer.  I'd love to be able to make some graphs of my rides so that I can track my progress, this seems simple enough that it must exist, I've just had no luck finding one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I would like it to have the following features:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed and Cadence sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trip functionality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USB interface to get data the data onto my computer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any recommendations for a good cycling computer it would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="David Barry" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T20:50:19.917" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T04:06:41.643" Title="Are there any bicycle computers that will log ride data?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;performance-tracking&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2010-08-03T05:36:11.200" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Garmin Edge-series computers coupled with Garmin Connect ... not inexpensive, but have traditional bike touch points (wheel and cadence sensors) coupled with GPS, logging and USB. Edge 205/305 are BW, 605 and up add color, ANT integration, etc ... all the modern bike computer features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="ttt" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T04:22:32.690" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2010-08-03T09:49:15.837" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velocomputer.com/views/products.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VeloComputer&lt;/a&gt; looks like it does what you need assuming you have a compatible phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Bluetooth module that connects to a variety of mobile phones (Blackberry, Android, Nokia etc.). It tracks distance, spot speed, acceleration and cadence and monitors a number of other metrics too. If your phone has GPS it can also do trip tracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The data can be exported as CSV via USB and converted to KML if you want to load it into a mapping application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Rich Seller" LastEditorUserId="3992" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T10:33:31.383" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T10:33:31.383" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2010-08-03T16:29:13.680" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.polarusa.com/us-en/&quot;&gt;Polar's&lt;/a&gt; higher end heart rate monitors now offer a foot pod for tracking running distance and a bike computer (wireless as well).  The data can be downloaded via the data link.  Again, like ttt notes, not inexpensive.  But then this level of functionality is alas, never cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall there was a Palm Pilot app that had an interface to some common bike computer standard, but that was ages ago, and I doubt it is still around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" OwnerDisplayName="geoffc" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T04:22:32.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2010-08-03T17:53:41.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about building your own? MSDN has series of articles about building a bicycle computer using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.msdn.com/b/netmfteam/archive/2010/05/18/bicycle-computer-1-introduction.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;.Net Micro Framework.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Greg Bray" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T04:22:32.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2010-08-05T12:58:00.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a smartphone or Garmin device, you can use this site to do what you want: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.endomondo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Endomondo.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it to track and map my runs, walks, bicycle rides, etc.  Seems to work well for me (with their app running on my iPhone) and is web based so there is no upload issue.  It also is free, which is always nice :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Allan Mertner" LastEditorUserId="26813" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T04:06:41.643" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T04:06:41.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2010-08-05T14:29:06.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newpotatotech.com/LiveRider/liverider.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LiveRider&lt;/a&gt;  This just popped up on gizmodo.com, requires an iPhone or iPod touch but looks like it has what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Alex Larzelere" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T04:22:32.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="938" CreationDate="2010-09-15T04:25:42.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most exercise bikes don't simulate the same riding position that you have on your road bike. If your goal is to improve your performance on your road bike, you'll either need a specialized exercise bike that lets you get in the same position, or you'll need to use your road bike. There really is no substitute for getting miles in using the same position as when you're riding &quot;for real&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T04:25:42.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2010-09-15T08:58:39.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally use a Garmin Edge 305 which hooks up reasonably well to the computer (Mac or PC). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I also use the RunKeeper app for the iPhone which syncs to their website. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you're an Android-ist, here's a recent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/cycling-accessories/cycling-apps-for-the-android/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;post offering options&lt;/a&gt; (disclaimer, not my post, I just subscribe to the feed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T08:58:39.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="925" CreationDate="2010-09-15T09:06:09.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can see cloth, I'd be seriously considering replacing the tyre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it might have lots of tread, a deep cut is going to be an area of weakness and while you might be able to back it with tape, notes or similar padding, the tyre will not cope well with high pressure - and will be much more susceptible to rupturing at that point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And make the next set of tyres you buy Kevlar-lined, it really does make a serious difference to longevity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T09:06:09.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2010-09-15T09:10:51.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CO2 inflater is, for me, only an emergency option. It lives in my saddle bag to get me home after a flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't rigorously investigated it, but anecdotally I think that tyres inflated with CO2 deflate by themselves more quickly than air-inflated tyres do. Fortunately I haven't punctured too much recently, but the last couple of roadside fixes with CO2 inflation have deflated overnight which, when re-inflated with air, have been fine (i.e. no secondary punctures). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T09:10:51.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2010-09-15T10:04:34.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/green-living-blog/2010/sep/13/bike-thief-stolen-tips&quot;&gt;recent article in the Guardian: &lt;em&gt;Bike thief tells how to stop your cycle from being stolen&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't use a cheap lock &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't assume CCTV will deter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put it in a popular area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you return to your bike and it's punctured/damaged, &lt;strong&gt;move it&lt;/strong&gt; as it could be that a thief has done it to buy more time &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you park in one area frequently, try to move around a bit - thieves might notice a decent bike often in the same place  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T10:04:34.113" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-15T10:04:34.113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2010-09-15T10:36:28.447" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;To avoid bike seat being nicked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take it with you (not always practical)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a cable or chain to attach it to the bike frame. These are made commercially, but even a fairly token bit of wire rope works - the people who will cut that will generally also cut your lock.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepartsplace.com/images/med/31757744.jpg&quot;&gt;allen key skewers&lt;/a&gt; as opposed to quick release. This reduces the chances of theft, but in some cities, thiefs carry allen key sets.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy a proper locking bolt for it. One example is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.com/&quot;&gt;pitlock&lt;/a&gt;. If you're buying those for your wheels the additional cost for a seat bolt is low.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take number 3 a step further&lt;/strong&gt;.  This is a great tip I learnt from a NYC bike mechanic:&#xA;- Find a ball bearing thats same size as allen key hole.&#xA;- Dab some grease/vaseline in hole&#xA;- Place ball bearing in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;= Only way to get ball bearing out is with a magnet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-07-07T03:26:29.600" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T03:26:29.600" CommentCount="7" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-15T10:36:28.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="994" CreationDate="2010-09-15T11:25:11.507" Score="9" ViewCount="7468" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use a trainer with a mountain bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to the same bike off road at weekends so I don't really want to change the setup of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T20:42:09.970" Title="Trainers &amp; Mountain Bikes" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="987" CreationDate="2010-09-15T11:47:12.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the various turbo trainers that are available, they should have some indication of what size of wheel they can accommodate in terms of the diameter. If you've got 26&quot; wheels on your mountain bike, then that's the size the it'll need to be able to cope with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine just comes with a special Quick Release skewer to use with the trainer (you swap it back to the normal skewer when you want to use your bike as normal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T11:47:12.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2010-09-15T12:21:26.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have followed both @Jack M. and @LanceH's advice before and both worked well. I also followed that up with anti-scar cream for a nice face wound I had. I think it helped, but I'm not that interested in doing a personal comparison study.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search on amazon or head to your local drug store/chemist and ask someone there for a recommendation. You use the anti-scar cream after the scab is off if I remember right. And don't pick off the scab!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T12:21:26.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="992" CreationDate="2010-09-15T12:44:37.393" Score="42" ViewCount="22092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to do a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Track_stand&quot;&gt;track stand&lt;/a&gt;. I can almost come to a halt on my bike without taking my shoes out the cleats - but not quite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fixie&quot;&gt;fixed wheel&lt;/a&gt; it should be easier, but I can't quite manage to maintain position, I always find myself rolling forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking for snippets of advice, without being able to see what I'm doing wrong, can anyone tell me something to do right so as to perform a decent track stand; on either a free or a fixed hub, advice for either is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's your secret?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I promise that I'll go out and practice somewhere quiet ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T17:54:19.110" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T13:55:00.617" Title="How to do a track stand?" Tags="&lt;skills&gt;&lt;tricks&gt;&lt;trackstand&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-09-15T12:47:55.170" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few more tricks that you need to be aware of. The most important is that a lot of modern bike frames, particularly mountain bikes, have a sloping top tube. If you use the method described by @kkeilman you're size measurement will end up being too small. The trick in this instance is to get an assistant to hold a horizontal reference such as a yardstick, metre rule or broomstick aligned with a spirit level (or by eye) at the level of the top tube/head tube junction. You can then measure the size from the centre of the bottom bracket to this reference line, keeping the measuring tape in line with the seat tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T12:47:55.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="990" CreationDate="2010-09-15T12:56:14.807" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are my snippets of advice from when I learnt to trackstand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start off by practising on a slight uphill. This way you only need to practice the forward pressure part of the movement. As you get better you can move on to smaller and smaller slopes. In urban riding, you can often use the camber of the road as your slope.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the right gear. Not really an issue with a fixie, but on a bike with gears you want a gear that is in about the middle of the range. Too low a gear will give you too much leverage and you will tend to over correct. Too high a gear and you won't have enough leverage to move the bike easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I find it easier to track stand standing up, pedals horizontal with my good foot forward and with the saddle braced between my thighs. Later you can progress to seated trackstands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the bike starts to lean towards the direction that you've turned your front wheel, then a slight pressure on your leading foot should shift the bike back under you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the bike starts to lean in the opposite direction, then you have to ease off the pressure on your front foot and let the bike roll back down the hill slightly. This is probably the trickiest part to get the hang of as it is a fairly unnatural backwards motion at first, but once you get the hang of it your trackstands will progress well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T12:56:14.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="990" CreationDate="2010-09-15T12:56:52.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by finding some imperfection in the surface - like just a tiny bit of a dip or lump.  Roll your front wheel up to the point by pushing very slightly on the pedals and then once you feel the resistance from point to your movement ease off on the pedals and roll back.  Keep doing this and you will find that you can balance on the point with only the very slightest of movements.  You just alternate between applying a little bit of pressure on the pedals to the pedals applying a bit of pressure back to you.  Even with a freewheel you will get some back pressure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you come to a non flat surface, there are two things to do.  If you are facing up hill, then turn your front wheel almost 45 degrees to the frame, and then do the pressure on, pressure off routine as before.  Facing downhill is harder, since you will get very little back pressure.  My tip here is to turn the front wheel to almost 90 degrees, and to let the bike roll so you are perpendicular to the direction of the road.  Then you can generate a small amount of back pressure, since the bike actually tries to go back on itself.  Be careful though, it is very easy to fall off doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when you have mastered this, you can try doing it while still in the saddle ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="106" LastEditDate="2010-09-15T23:24:47.567" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T23:24:47.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="987" CreationDate="2010-09-15T13:08:01.157" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a trainer on a mountain bike, but a big issue that you will run into if you don't want to change set-up between the trainer and your rides on the weekend is that running knobbly tyres on a trainer is just plain noisy. If you are determined to run the same tyre on the trainer as off-road, I'd recommend looking into the tyres that have a raised, slick low rolling resistance portion in the middle, with knobs on the sides to help with cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T13:08:01.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3052" CreationDate="2010-09-15T13:15:08.210" Score="35" ViewCount="44402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious if anyone uses a skiing helmet for winter biking? Would this be safe? Are skiing helmets designed to protect you from the same kind of accidents that you would have on a bike?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is that a ski helmet would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Help to keep your ears warm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would fit well with ski goggles (which fit poorly with my bike helmet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not have air vents in it which make you cold in the winter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="776" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T15:28:22.413" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T10:26:50.577" Title="Using a ski helmet for winter biking" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2010-09-15T13:34:05.527" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of reasons that the shifting on your rear derailleur is not working well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The derailleur hanger (the bit of the frame that the derailleur bolts onto) could be bent. To check this look at the angle that the derailleur cage is at. When viewed from behind, it should be vertical, when viewed from above, it should be parallel to the centreline of the bike. Your bike shop should be able to either re-bend the hanger to align it properly or supply a replacement hanger if you frame has a replaceable derailleur hanger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cassette and chain could be excessively worn. The standard way to check this is to look at the distance between chain links - you can get a tool that does this for you. If you haven't replaced your chain for a while, this can often be a problem. The fix is to replace the chain, and if required the cassette.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There may be excessive friction in your gear cables. You try an interim fix of pulling the cables out of the outers, washing them through degreaser and then re-fitting them. You may need to repeat a few times to get the gunk out of the outers. A longer term fix involves replacing the cables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear derailleur spring could be worn out and weak. Not much you can do about this short of replacing the derailleur. Only really high end derailleurs are able to have their springs replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T13:34:05.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2010-09-15T14:50:13.153" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a bike helmet may be better suited for crashing on a very hard surface (tarmac, concrete), skiing helmets are presumably well suited to handling an impact against the vertical things skiers hit (trees, lift poles).  In that respect, a ski helmet might not be as good as a bike helmet but it ought to provide an acceptable level of protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One question that it brings up in my mind is how stringent the industry testing is for bicycle helmets compared to ski helmets.  Helmets for biking have a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/standard.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;well-respected standards&lt;/a&gt; that they must comply to, from government groups like the Consumer Product Safety Commission in the US, to independent labs like Snell.  Ski helmets haven't been around for nearly as long in wide usage, so I'd be wary of their technical efficacy.  If you are going to use a ski helmet on a bike, be sure it at least has some independent certification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T14:08:10.213" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T14:08:10.213" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-15T15:16:05.203" Score="9" ViewCount="1016" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some of the methods to determine my aerobic/anaerobic heart rate threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-15T15:56:46.453" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T07:39:51.547" Title="How do you calculate aerobic and anaerobic heart rates?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2010-09-15T15:23:45.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use two locks of different types (eg Chain and D).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've felt pretty smug in the past when I've come back to my bike to see one of the locks snipped, bike still there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T15:23:45.180" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-15T15:23:45.180" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="987" CreationDate="2010-09-15T15:44:17.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option which requires only a little bit of set up is get a wheel for use only with the trainer. If you hunt around buy &amp;amp; sell forums, you should be able to find a cheap wheel and cassette and slick tires only cost $20-30. When you want to use your trainer, just switch wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T15:44:17.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2010-09-15T15:46:27.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main idea is to keep scabs from forming. Scabbing retards the healing process greatly, and will increase scarring. The Neosporin that was suggested above and other generic antibiotic ointments help with this; this is an economical solution. You can get gauze that is already impregnated with Neosporin-like things, or you can apply the ointment to the wound and then put regular gauze on top. For large areas, it can be hard to keep the bandage on the wound which is why I recommend other products like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tegaderm&quot;&gt;Tegaderm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tegaderm and similar products that are designed for burn victims work great. The nice thing about tegaderm is that you can stick it on the rash (once it's clean) and then leave it on there. It stays on the wound without needing tape or other adhesives, but it doesn't pull or damage the healing skin when/if you pull it off. It forms a protective &quot;skin-like&quot; layer while the skin underneath grows back. You can leave it on for a long time without changing, and it speeds the healing immensely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T15:46:27.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="987" CreationDate="2010-09-15T15:53:16.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, but it depends on whether the particular trainer will accommodate a 26&quot; wheel.  I have two trainers, one that will work on a mountain bike (found at a garage sale), and one that won't quite adjust close enough (so I use that one for a road bike only).  Best check the specs closely before buying a trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T15:53:16.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2010-09-15T16:18:54.793" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The classic DIY method is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conconi_test&quot;&gt;Conconi test&lt;/a&gt; which requires you to be able to measure your power output and your heart rate, slowly increasing your power over time. E.g. starting at a very low level, you increase your output by a set amount every minute until you can no longer do it. At each stage you take your average heart rate. Then when you have the data, plot them on a graph, time along the bottom, heart rate on the y. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this you'd need to be in a relatively sterile environment - it's not something you could easily or accurately do on the road. A turbo trainer is perfect, incrementing your output in watts or speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should see is that your curve will slowly grow with a reasonably consistent gradient, but there'll be a point where it takes over and climbs much more steeply. That's your anaerobic threshold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be quite vague, but it'll be accurate to within a few beats - certainly enough to be able to set your next training outing a few beats below it for your threshold session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more specific results, you'll need to do some lactic acid testing ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T16:18:54.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2010-09-15T16:39:00.743" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow! That looks like a horrid crash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some newer ideas on road rash healing. My doctor recommended that I &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; use Neosporin type ointments. The reason being that it only has an affect on the superficial layers of the wound and that infection, if it occurs, will be in the deeper layers; and also that topicals are shown to interfere with wound healing. He also told me not to use hydrogen peroxide as it damages tissue. The keys to healing and preventing scarring are to keep the wounds clean and moist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advice I got from my physician (who is a cyclist) is pretty much the same as the advice here on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freewheel.com/mvw/cure.htm&quot;&gt;freewheel.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the article and my doc:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a proper cleaning it's recommended to apply an application of a hydrocolloid or semiocclusive hydrogel dressing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A moist healing environment is provided by the dressing... Two basic options fulfill this requirement.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Semipermeable film dressings&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, such as Bioclusive (Johnson &amp;amp; Johnson, New Brunswick, New Jersey) andTegaderm (3M Company, St Paul), in combination with semiocclusive hydrogels such as Spenco 2nd Skin (Spenco Medical Corp, Waco, Texas). These dressings are impermeable to water and bacteria but allow the exudate to evaporate.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hydrocolloidal dressings&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Examples of hydrocolloidal dressings are Duoderm (ConvaTec, SkiUman, New Jersey) and Cutinova hydro (Beiersdorf, Inc, Norwalk, Connecticut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-15T23:41:59.687" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T23:41:59.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1006" CreationDate="2010-09-15T17:30:53.303" Score="17" ViewCount="6436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tripod for my SLR camera that I want to carry on my bike. It's just a generic tripod &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/CAMlink-TP-2800-Tripod-Tilt-Carry/dp/tech-data/B000TCNBNM/ref=de_a_smtd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;, but if I strap it to my top tube it rubs against my legs while riding (and it's slightly too long for that). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zQTyV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zQTyV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a pannier rack, but I haven't been able to attach it in a way I'm happy with yet. Do I have any other options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T01:03:22.320" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T13:30:35.703" Title="How can I carry a tripod on my bike?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2010-09-15T17:44:02.120" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to find a good way of attaching it to the rear rack.  Anything attached to the main triangle much larger than a bottle is likely to cause interference with your legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way you could attach it to the rear rack would be to buy some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/BA408A04-Axiom+Pannier+Mounting+Hardware.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pannier hardware&lt;/a&gt; and make your own pannier for it.  Or possibly attach the hardware (zip ties?) to one of the tripod's legs, making it into its own pannier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to strap it down to the rack deck.  A nice sturdy rack like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/cargo/rear_rack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Surly ones&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20101130080445/http://surlybikes.com/parts/surly_rack/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;archive&lt;/a&gt;) should give you plenty of stability, using a couple bungees to tie it down.  I've hauled 3 foot long loads on my rack this way without any trouble.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="20186" LastEditDate="2017-05-20T20:58:24.163" LastActivityDate="2017-05-20T20:58:24.163" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-15T18:44:58.177" Score="17" ViewCount="25576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received a used road bike. I took it to a bike shop where they told me the seat and handlebars had to be raised for my height, so I had them make the adjustments. I now have trouble getting on and off my bike, and when I have to stop my feet barely touch the ground. Would these be indicators that my bike's the wrong size for my height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-16T03:39:07.963" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T00:10:37.597" Title="How do I make sure my bike's the proper size?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2010-09-15T18:49:44.373" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attach it to the rear rack with bungee cords and make sure it is orthogonal to the bike. This way, cars will be more careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T18:49:44.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1007" CreationDate="2010-09-15T19:12:17.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding (certainly no fit expert), you're probably fine as long as you're not crunching your privates on the top tube.  Your leg should be close to fully extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke, so you would be on tippy-toes or less when at a complete stop.  You'll also probably find that mounting requires the use of the pedal as a &quot;step&quot; to get on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T19:12:17.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2010-09-15T19:19:59.997" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;stick it inside the pannier bag, protruding if needed. I've carried 4' long tubes of prints that way just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T19:19:59.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1007" CreationDate="2010-09-15T19:32:10.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you shouldn't be able to fully touch the ground from your seat. Maybe with your toes totally pointed you can get them both down but that's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for getting on an off the bike, practice will make it easier. If you've never been riding a properly fit bike then I would anticipate it feels odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to place both feet flat on the ground while standing over your top tube with a bit of room to spare so you don't accidentally hurt yourself by landing on the top tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for handlebars they should be at least 1 inch lower than your seat generally. The more flexible you are the lower you can go with comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your seat should be level with the ground (not the top tube) or slightly pointed down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your seat should be high enough that at the bottom of your pedal stroke your knee is slightly bent. If you're experiencing knee pain that doesn't go away after a few rides (to get used to the new setup) the general rule is to move your seat up if the pain is in the front of your knee and down if it's in the back of your knee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stem length changes based on your torso length so I have to assume that the shop provided you with the proper length/rise of stem to suit your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A proper bike fit is one of the best things to spend some money on with a bike. Just give it a bit of time as you get used to a bike setup properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-09-15T23:05:08.293" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T23:05:08.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1007" CreationDate="2010-09-15T19:48:37.030" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;While in the saddle, your feet should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; touch the ground and your leg should be almost completely extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke.  You ought to be able to straddle the top tube fairly easily with your feet flat on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/starting.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's article&lt;/a&gt; on starting on a bicycle may help with getting accustomed to having the seat higher than you are used to.  Do visit his site to see the video, but here are the basics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stand astride the frame, both feet on the ground.  Do not try to sit on the saddle while the bike is stopped, this is not usually possible if your saddle is properly adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotate the pedals so that the pedal for your less skillful foot is 45 degrees forward of straight up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Put your foot on the high pedal, then press down hard, and mount the bike as you begin to move forward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2010-09-19T04:30:33.960" LastActivityDate="2010-09-19T04:30:33.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-15T20:58:20.637" Score="12" ViewCount="902" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I approach my mid-50's, I'm looking forward to a few more decades of cycling if all goes well. How can one avoid and/or mitigate age related issues in order to maintain cycling fitness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thought a lot about this and already engage in several practices. I'm sure that I can always learn more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-04-26T21:22:22.853" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T00:43:09.057" Title="How can one maintain cycling fitness as one ages?" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1013" CreationDate="2010-09-15T21:03:37.013" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to get started with a couple of things I already do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Strength training with some emphasis on lower body. Since cycling is not a weight bearing exercise, older cyclists are at a greater risk for pelvic, hip and leg fractures. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An advanced dynamic flexibility routine in order to maintain mobility, coordination and balance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;As noted by darkcanuck's comment below, cycling as a cause of bone loss may very well be incorrect. In the article, Dr. Mirkin advocates vitamin D supplementation to prevent bone loss, and I've also read other sources recommending the same thing. So, probably a good idea especially for those in Northern climes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for strength training, I have other reasons for how it's been beneficial for cycling as I get older.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One is that a few years ago I was experiencing considerable neck/shoulder pain on long rides. At the time I was spending long hours at the computer and cycling was my dominant physical activity. I came to the conclusion that my neck/shoulder issues were posture related and so developed a strength and flexibility program to correct my posture. In doing that I have been able to eliminate the pain and now ride comfortably on long rides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another issue that developed a year or so ago was knee pain. After seeing my doc and a physical therapist, I was prescribed a new 'hip' focused addition to my strength routine. Apparently I had some muscular imbalances related to cycling. Since starting this new routine 6 months ago, the knee issues are significantly improved. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further info on strength training for older, and even younger cyclists, here's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/09/training-center/velonews-training-center-is-strength-training-for-cycling-a-good-idea_139198&quot;&gt;article from Velonews&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-22T05:58:13.187" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T05:58:13.187" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-15T21:03:37.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2010-09-15T21:42:46.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did once wear ski goggles whilst cycling through the snow, and felt that it probably was a bit less safe, because they cut down my peripheral vison a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When It's pretty cold I normally wear a balaclava underneath my helmet, which I recommend heartily. It keeps the ears and face nice and warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastActivityDate="2010-09-15T21:42:46.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2010-09-16T02:20:21.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A longish trunk bag should do the trick. It'll stick out the end, but at least it won't unbalance the bike too much -- and you'll have room for other camera stuff in the bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T02:20:21.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2010-09-16T03:00:17.027" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do when it's cold, in addition to wearing a skullcap or balaclava, is use clear packing tape to cover the front vents in my helmet.  This has usually been sufficient for comfort during my 60-75 min commute in Utah winters down to 15-20 F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T03:00:17.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2010-09-16T03:42:34.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just strap it to the top of your rear pannier rack.  Bungee cords are probably the best, but you can use compression straps or whatever you tried lashing it to the top tube with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Orient the tripod so that the swivel head is at the very front of the rack, with the feet sticking off the back.  The head is the heaviest part -- the closer it is to your body on the bike, the less you'll notice it.  My guess is that you'll almost forget it's back there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T03:42:34.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2010-09-16T07:39:51.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of confusion over the definitions of aerobic threshold, anaerobic threshold, lactate threshold and determining power levels or heart rates for each can be tricky. Some advocate working them out from a ramp test to exhaustion but that's stressful and probably unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1934030201&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joe Friel&lt;/a&gt; determines &quot;lactate threshold heart rate&quot; by taking the average HR of a decently long ride (~1 hour) giving it all you've got. Strictly speaking LTHR is when lactate concentration reaches a certain level but as you probably don't have a blood analysis machine to hand this'll have to do. You should end up working at just the edge of your aerobic capacity, on average, as you can't sustain anaerobic workloads for this duration. The average power produced during this workout would be around about your Functional Threshold Power (FTP), another handy number to know (though obviously you need a power meter to find it out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LTHR/FTP is a good base to work out levels for other workouts. For instance, riding at VO2max can be trained by riding at 110-120% of FTP, or an intensity a bit greater than your LTHR (1 hour average HR). True anaerobic threshold work is at an even higher intensity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're training by HR alone Joe Friel's book is well worth reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T07:39:51.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2010-09-16T08:28:40.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may not work, but it may not….&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you can a section of plastic drain pipe. You can get screw on end and fixed ends for drain pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiIMU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pipe&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kuZbv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pipe End&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NgYg9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clip&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fix the drain pipe to the top of your rack and use a screw on end to keep the Tripod in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or fit the drain pipe to the back strays and have the Tripod standing partly above your rack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/571#571&quot;&gt;Jubilee clips&lt;/a&gt; may be useful for fixing on the drain pipe maybe comfined with Pannier Mounting Hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T18:46:39.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-16T12:04:02.150" Score="16" ViewCount="1282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been wondering is there a marketplace to buy/sell/get original parts for bikes no longer made? I have a Bridgestone X0-1 Hybrid (the weird looking one with mustache handlebars) and I want to either restore it to original like new condition (or might just sell it) but I haven't really found a good place to research this. Any ideas?  I've tried ebay, but either its a whole bike (I don't need that) or never the parts I need!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T08:04:24.967" Title="What are good sites/places to buy/sell bike parts for older bikes?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-16T13:06:35.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1021" CreationDate="2010-09-16T12:28:37.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK you can look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.retrobike.co.uk/&quot;&gt;Retrobike&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2010-09-16T15:30:39.507" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T15:30:39.507" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-16T13:06:35.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2010-09-16T12:50:27.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised they do it on a stand.  The flex of the frame while in use makes a significant difference in how it needs to be setup!  I put my bikes on a trainer when doing the shifting calibration.  That way I can jump on the bike and do test runs under load.  Sometimes ends up being a bit clunky if you spin it by hand while not riding, but always works perfect out on the road!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T12:50:27.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1056" CreationDate="2010-09-16T13:37:07.893" Score="6" ViewCount="1424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a folding bike for my commute to work and want to spend $350-400. The bikes at Vela.ca look very good but I want to make sure I get the best deal. &#xA;Shipping costs are also a concern. Vela has a flat rate of $35 which is very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="439" LastEditorUserId="2331" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T16:35:13.340" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T16:35:13.340" Title="What is the best place to buy a folding bike for $350-$400 in Canada?" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;canada&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-01-30T21:25:00.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1074" CreationDate="2010-09-16T13:42:24.687" Score="7" ViewCount="886" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old shock just gave up its life in my old single-pivot all-mountain frame. I'd like to replace it with something tough and maintenance-free, so that I don't have to worry about air pressure, oil leaks and other things to check before I ride. It should also be mud-proof as much as possible. Weight, price, performance and all others are secondary. Does anybody have a good recommendation? 160 or 165 mm length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there more than one standard of mounting rear shocks? I vaguely remember some sort of ball joints being promoted for this a few years ago, but I don't know if this caught.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-17T05:04:11.720" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T05:15:00.713" Title="Can anyone recommend a good maintenance-free rear shock?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1021" CreationDate="2010-09-16T16:13:56.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd vote for PinkBike or your local Craigslist. I know I look in both spots for parts when I want something new for my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T16:13:56.503" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-16T16:13:56.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="801" CreationDate="2010-09-16T18:20:46.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have been looking around and found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unicycling.net/buyersguide.htm&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;.  Has a lot of good information.&#xA;Talks about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;type of riding and what configuration works best&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sizing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;big/small wheels (20&quot;/24&quot;/26&quot;/28&quot;/36&quot; typically for adults)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;width of tires (2.5&quot; - 3&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crank arms (4&quot; - 6&quot; in .5&quot; increments)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;where to buy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for me for &quot;all purpose riding&quot; I would need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;24&quot; unicycle (based on inseam measurement...check website above for details)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5&quot; or 6 crank arms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3&quot; wide tires, for a smoother ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T18:20:46.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-16T18:30:10.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have enjoyed years of cycling to music using speakers on my bike.  Now that I have an iPhone with speakers, I mount it on my handlebars and go.   Its loud enough to hear but as soon as a vehicle get near me, the music is drowned out - therefore no vehicle sneaks up on me.  Also, not having headphones/earbuds on also makes me feel less restricted and I never had to take a hand of the handlebar to adjust an earbud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go with small battery powered speakers (rechargable batteries makes this cheap) or a device like an iPhone or iPod touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T18:30:10.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1030" CreationDate="2010-09-16T20:55:57.727" Score="37" ViewCount="49485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm used to riding on a MTB, but since I've got a new road bike, I'm quite paranoid about the slick tyres. How good are they in wet weather? I'm scared of braking too hard, or even just turning!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-06-24T17:44:36.513" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T21:24:53.267" Title="Is it safe to ride a racing road bike in very wet weather?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2010-09-16T21:07:53.383" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're fine. I live outside of Vancouver so I'm already riding in wet a few days a week some weeks. Just this morning I was coming down the backside of a climb at 70km and they were totally secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the tires are so narrow they don't suffer from hydroplaning. The biggest thing to worry about is painted lines and manhole covers (or other metal covers on the road). Both are very slick when wet. I've always been careful but I know a number of other riders that have gone down cornering hard on both types of surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right to leave yourself extra room to brake. Also don't forget to account for reduced visibility for both you and cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T21:07:53.383" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2010-09-16T22:28:43.753" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's (almost) completely safe, but you can help yourself: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid manhole covers, you'll often wheel spin if you're not careful&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be wary of coloured road surfaces and lines, London has just ludicrous amounts of painted tarmac (and the new 'cycle superhighways' are some of the worst) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take a wee bit of speed off, you'll still get there, but give yourself a little more time to look at the surface coming up &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep your weight balanced, especially when descending, you'll be more secure if you can maximise the grip on both wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ride a little further out than normal, cars passing you need to give you more space, so make yourself more obvious &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mentally I prefer a tyre with some grip, rather than completely slick, but I know that many people think that there's little effective difference &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-16T22:28:43.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2010-09-17T03:15:04.203" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers covered this quite well, but I can speak from recent personal experience. I got a Bike Friday Tikit with skinny, treadless Kojak tires earlier this year, and I had the same concerns you do -- should I ride in the rain or not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7m3Bx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TekTro R530 brakes over Schwalbe Kojaks&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you may be able to make out in the picture, I do ride this bike in the rain. The Kojaks grip wet pavement as well as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/franklyn/4747103191/in/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;conventionally treaded tires&lt;/a&gt; on my touring bike, possibly better. I would avoid snow and ice, but wet isn't a problem. I would swap out the tires on my touring bike, but I do take that on gravel paths from time to time, and I'd like &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; tread for that! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just get ready for the wiseacres who'll kid you about those &quot;worn-out&quot; tires! (I got that almost every day at work in the elevator as I carried my folded bike upstairs.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T01:32:04.620" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T01:32:04.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2010-09-17T03:51:02.400" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 great answers here already, but I'll just add: &lt;strong&gt;ride more cautiously&lt;/strong&gt;.  You can ride safely in the rain, but you have to remember that the road will be a bit slicker and your brakes will likely be &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; less effective.  Don't corner too hard and brake earlier than normal.  When I know a stop is coming up, I usually give the brakes a light squeeze early on to dry them off and warm up the rims a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as curtismchale pointed out, watch out for drivers.  They'll have the same reduced braking capacity and dramatically reduced visibility (I can see much better cycling in the rain versus driving, due to water and reflections on the windows).  Dress in bright clothing, use plenty of reflective tape and bring some nice bright lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-17T03:51:02.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2010-09-17T08:55:18.143" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience the biggest loss in grip between MTB tires and slicks is on the sand (especially sand on tarmac),  mud and snow. On ice there is no grip in either case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On wet surface the slicks are actually better and this makes the border conditions thinner, you either grip well or skid completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastEditorUserId="406" LastEditDate="2010-09-19T11:56:39.053" LastActivityDate="2010-09-19T11:56:39.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-17T11:54:48.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cell phone&lt;/strong&gt; - For when I managed to blow through all my spare parts on a ride and eventually am forced to give up and get help.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-23T17:09:11.063" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T17:09:11.063" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-17T11:54:48.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1021" CreationDate="2010-09-17T13:12:01.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for stores that sell used bikes, they'll often have a large selection of parts for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-09-17T13:12:01.973" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-17T13:12:01.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1043" CreationDate="2010-09-17T13:22:47.773" Score="5" ViewCount="707" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping around for a new bike.  I ride 4-10 miles a few times a week and an occasional ~50 mile road trip.  I'm looking for recommendations on bikes similar to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sebikes.com/Singlespeed/Lager-%281%29.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SE Lager&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.surlybikes.com/bikes/steamroller_complete/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Steamroller&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/steel-road/rush-hour-11/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raleigh Rush Hour&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I'd like the bike to have 3-gears, but it looks like the only way to have that is to custom build. Is this so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to stay within a $1200 or so budget, but this is secondary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="448" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T18:36:45.927" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T14:05:44.503" Title="bike suggestions for a commuter who takes an occasional long road ride" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-07-16T09:13:53.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2010-09-17T14:04:15.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of links to sites with information about trail centres in the UK:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ukmountainbiker.com/view/Information/Trail_Centres/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trail Centres&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.forestry.gov.uk/website/recreation.nsf/WebCyclingSearch?OpenForm&amp;amp;c=England&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Find where to cycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-09-08T16:16:19.547" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T16:16:19.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="558" CreationDate="2010-09-17T14:18:53.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sustrans.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sustrans&lt;/a&gt; has created a lot of of road cycle paths in the UK, details on there website&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-17T14:18:53.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1042" CreationDate="2010-09-17T16:27:18.933" Score="8" ViewCount="19773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figure the jockey wheels on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;derailer&lt;/a&gt; will last nearly forever, but what about the rest: cassette, chainrings, and chain?  How many miles, kilometers, or furlongs do they normally last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;definite signs&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/429/does-this-chainring-need-to-be-replaced&quot;&gt;worn out sprockets&lt;/a&gt;—what sort of mileage is typical before the point where the wear is significant enough to require replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a commuter/touring bike with Shimano 105 components that is reasonably well maintained.  I clean &amp;amp; lubricate the chain every few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2010-09-18T07:35:31.420" Title="How much distance can I put on drivetrain components?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1041" CreationDate="2010-09-17T17:12:58.873" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mileage will vary greatly depending on the riding conditions and component maintenance. Personally, I've never tracked the mileage of my drivetrain components. But I do know that I replace chains far more often on my commuter bike than on my road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ok, I pulled out my copy of Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain life: 1,000 - 1,500 miles in dirty conditions or infrequent lubrication. Lighter cyclists riding on clean, dry roads might expect 2,000 - 3,000 miles with poor maintenance and up to 5,000 miles with a daily high-quality lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zinn also says that he gets almost infinite life out of his chainrings and cogs! He said that in the section on checking for chain elongation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in Portland, commuting year round, I'm probably near the bottom end for my commuter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;wdy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-17T21:14:09.137" LastActivityDate="2010-09-17T21:14:09.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1038" CreationDate="2010-09-17T19:03:00.587" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you want a fairly simple bike with rear hub gears, styled similarly to a track bike...  There's now &quot;Urban&quot;&lt;sup&gt;&amp;dagger;&lt;/sup&gt; bikes that match up to that category... The traditional thing would be to take an old 10-speed (horizontal-dropout) or singlespeed and replace the rear wheel with a 3-speed hub. (7 or 8 are common now, too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a few I found (starting with brands my 3 favorite LBSs carry, then some stuff I've randomly run into elsewhere):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/urban/fisher_fast_city/waubesa/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek/Fisher Waubesa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/urban/soho/soho/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek Soho&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/urban/soho/sohodlx/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek Soho DLX&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less of the fixie styling, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/urban/eco_design/belleville/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek Belleville&lt;/a&gt; is nice-looking and well-equipped for hauling stuff.  (this is one I've considered getting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.globebikes.com/us/en/globe/GlobeBike.jsp?pid=11LIVE2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Globe Live 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&amp;Dagger;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.globebikes.com/us/en/globe/GlobeBike.jsp?pid=11LIVE3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Globe Live 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.globebikes.com/us/en/globe/GlobeBike.jsp?pid=11dailyUS3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Globe Daily 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.globebikes.com/us/en/globe/GlobeBike.jsp?pid=10VNA4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Globe Vienna 4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/seek.0/7342/44056/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Giant Seek 0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaeng/Products/Bikes/Recreation-Urban/BAD-BOY/onBike/Details/2310-OCD-onBIKE&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cannondale Bad Boy ONbike (concept)&lt;/a&gt; (but custom would be cheaper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaeng/Products/Bikes/Recreation-Urban/Hooligan/Details/1316-0HL3-Hooligan-3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cannondale Hooligan 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/774422&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Novarra Fusion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/performance-hybrid/cadent-i8-11/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raleigh Cadent I8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.torkerusa.com/bikes/commuter-life/2011-kb2-&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Torker KB2&lt;/a&gt; (only 2 speeds, not 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://civiacycles.com/bikes/hyland/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Civia Hyland&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://civiacycles.com/bikes/bryant/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Civia Bryant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chargebikes.com/products/bikes/detail.php?id=26&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charge Tap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chargebikes.com/products/bikes/detail.php?id=24&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charge Mixer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;dagger; &quot;Urban&quot; or maybe &quot;City&quot; or &quot;Street&quot; or something that means &quot;road&quot; without actually saying road.  Sort of a silly term that their marketing departments came up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;Dagger; If you hadn't heard, Globe is a spinoff from Specialized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-18T04:30:00.477" LastActivityDate="2010-09-18T04:30:00.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1025" CreationDate="2010-09-17T19:47:51.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All shocks require a little bit of love from time to time. A coil rear shock will require less maintenance than an air shock. The simpler the shock, the less maintenance you will need to do. I have only ridden fox in the back, but have never had any issues. I would recommend looking at the Fox Van R Coil. The Rock Shox Vivid would also work really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be able to pedal well, you should look at the higher end coils that have propedal, or airshocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-09-17T19:47:51.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1041" CreationDate="2010-09-17T20:30:44.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard different rules of thumb (rule of thumbs?) about how much use you can get, and remember none of them.  What I do know is that not lubeing a chain often enough--actually, cleaning and lubeing--will cause it to wear such that it 'stretches'.  Not stretch like taffy, but gain overall length due to the pins and bushings in the links wearing down, getting slightly more room in how they link together.  Once the chain stretches it wears the teeth of the cassette and chainrings much rapidly.&#xA;Bottom line:  lube and clean your chain often enough and everything else will last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-17T20:30:44.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2010-09-17T20:33:25.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a product called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.purpleextreme.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;'Purple Extreme'&lt;/a&gt;, originally developed for offshore oil rig components.  I guess it is 'dry', because it dries on the chain (although you can use it immediately, they recommend letting it dry on first).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastEditorUserId="328" LastEditDate="2010-09-18T07:42:23.783" LastActivityDate="2010-09-18T07:42:23.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="692" CreationDate="2010-09-17T20:42:56.213" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;My method, which works very well and is fairly quick (although it required initial shopping and drinking some Gatorade):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  this requires having one of those reusable 'gold links' to detach/reattach the chain at will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the chain and put a string on it to fish it out of the gatorade bottles&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Simple Green:  I have an old gatorade bottle full of 50/50 diluted Simple Green, which is a great degreaser.  Put the lid on (with string outside, for chain removal).  Shake it up baby, now!  Really work it.  Remove the chain when it looks clean enough.  Grime will accumulate at the bottom of the bottle, but I just cap it and reuse the Simple Green again next time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean water:  Hot is best.  Another Gatorade bottle with water, put the chain in, shake shake shake.  This is to remove the Simple Green.  I don't save the water, just dump it out.  Hot will evaporate off the chain more rapidly and dissolve the Simple Green more quickly, but cold will do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;92% Isopropyl alcohol:  water rusts chains (bad!).  Water dissolves in alcohol, and the alcohol then evaporate super quickly.  So, chain in Gatorade bottle of alcohol, string outside, cap on, shake shake shake.  Remove the chain, watch the alcohol drip off and evaporate in no time.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are left with a fresh chain of just metal.  Lube it up and go riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-17T20:42:56.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2010-09-17T21:16:56.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of Pro Gold. Year round, all weather.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.progoldmfr.com/products2/ProLink_Chain_Lube.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.progoldmfr.com/products2/ProLink_Chain_Lube.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the Pro Gold company got their start making lubricants for mining equipment. So think lubricating metal in adverse conditions. Anyway, the downside to their bike chain lube is that it can be hard to locate locally. It's available online though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-19T03:34:06.040" LastActivityDate="2010-09-19T03:34:06.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1041" CreationDate="2010-09-18T03:25:24.690" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drivetrain components tend to wear in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear cassette/sprockets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front chainrings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(and the teeth on your derailleur's jockey wheels may last, but the bearings may not)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain is usually the culprit for wearing out the other two.  As it wears, the distance between links effectively increases, and the mismatch between the links and teeth will grind away at your gears.  So the key to making your cassette and chainrings last is to change the chain before it wears too much.  I use a Park Tool chain measuring device -- it slots in between the pins on the chain so it's a bit more accurate than a ruler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the chain clean will help increase its life.  Also keep in mind that 9- and 10-speed chains (and perhaps 8 as well?) are narrower than the other chains.  Their construction allows more gears to fit in the same space, but it also means that they wear much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've stayed with 9-speed and my chain lasts at least 1500km with a lot of riding in wet weather.  Every time I've pushed it (and ignored my chain tool's advice), I've had to spring for a new cassette afterwards.  I remember chains on my older bikes (7-speed) lasting much longer than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-18T03:25:24.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2010-09-18T03:30:51.443" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/689/how-do-i-gear-up-a-bike-for-winter-riding/694#694&quot;&gt;this answer to another question&lt;/a&gt;, I commute all winter in central Vermont with a Giro 9 ski helmet and goggles. The winter weather here has lots of sleet and snow with temperatures mostly in the 5*F-20*F range with sub-zero temps at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dCpQi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Giro helmet [and apparently many recent ski helmets] conform to the ASTM 2040 safety standard. This helmet has very similar construction to my Giro bike helmet (primarily dense foam with a thin plastic shell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.telemarktips.com/Helmets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;According to this site&lt;/a&gt; ASTM 2040 is almost identical to the Consumer Product Safety Council's (CPSC) standard for bicycle helmets, but with additions for mandatory low-temperature performance. Compare the ASTM description to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/testing.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this description&lt;/a&gt; of CPSC testing. Both standards require 4 drop tests from two meters height: two onto flat anvils, one onto a hemispherical anvil, and one onto an angled edge anvil. In both standards, the helmet fails if the instrumented head-form exceeds 300 g's on impact. Both standards require testing of chin-straps and roll-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the speeds and obstacles (automobiles aside) are very similar skiing and biking, I feel very comfortable wearing the Giro 9 while biking. The construction of this helmet is almost identical to that of my Giro bike helmet (the same gray foam with a thin outer shell), but with a significantly higher foam/hole ratio. As mentioned by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/76/freiheit&quot;&gt;freiheit&lt;/a&gt;, Giro markets one of its helmets for both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giro.com/us_en/products/snow-helmets/ski/remedy-cf-3854.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;downhill skiing&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giro.com/us_en/products/cycling-helmets/dirt/remedy-cf.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;downhill mountain biking&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One nice feature about this particular ski helmet is that it has quite a bit of ventilation via removable rubber plugs in the openings on top. Since we generate a lot more heat biking than downhill skiing, this extra airflow keeps the head comfortable while the eyes and face are protected by goggles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are commuting or riding after dark, be sure to get goggles that aren't too dark. Often clear or colored lenses are available that let through 90% or more of the available light and will let you see the road with your headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T13:41:09.940" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2010-09-18T05:04:28.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you ride in the wet, try to plan your trip around all of the slippery surfaces already mentioned.  When you cannot, try to stop turning and braking until clear of the bad stuff, then get back on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to comment on surfaces others have mentioned, with &quot;that's the worst&quot; or &quot;this is even worse than that!&quot;...but anything besides clean pavement can be a hazard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else you might do if planning to ride:  realize that visibility for drivers goes way down; get lotsa lights.  I keep a front flasher going throughout the day, as well as a regular tail light and a helmet-mounted tail light.  The best bike I saw, the rider had colored light sticks on his spokes, lights on his handlebar ends, saddle, helmet, 2 headlights.  It seemed like overkill, but I could see him through a rain-spattered windshield easily.  Remember, being hit by a car once is worse than multiple slips and falls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-18T05:04:28.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1041" CreationDate="2010-09-18T07:35:31.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As darkcanuck mentions, make sure you check the chain for wear and when it gets outside of acceptable limits  change it. If you don't then you'll end up having to change other components too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left mine too long (much, much too long) and ended up having to buy a new cassette and chainrings. The rest of the drivetrain may survive for years but only if you look after the chain properly and and replace it when necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-09-18T07:35:31.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2010-09-18T12:56:25.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had much luck with dry lube. It has very low viscosity and feels like it washes off easily. I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/cross-country-lube.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Finish Line Wet&lt;/a&gt; lube all year round. It's cheap, widely available and clean when applied carefully. I apply by taking the chain off the bike, cleaning it and dropping a couple of drops on each link, allowing it to soak in and then wiping off the excess. Sounds fiddly but it doesn't take long and you get lube where you need it (inside the links) and not where you don't (everywhere else).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-09-18T12:56:25.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1024" CreationDate="2010-09-18T15:40:25.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest starting with your local bike shop. They're the ones that will do some of the servicing (I'm guessing) and having a good relationship with them is always important. If they can't even come close to pricing or won't get a folding bike for you then your local Craigslist might yield some results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-18T15:40:25.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1059" CreationDate="2010-09-18T20:10:15.670" Score="27" ViewCount="4375" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://itd.idaho.gov/bike_ped/ID_Vehicle_code_for_Bikes_05.pdf&quot;&gt;Idaho (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;, bicyclists are allowed to treat stop signs as yields, and red lights as stop signs (essentially; see the actual law for details). This seems like a very reasonable approach, balancing the fact that bicycles are smaller, more maneuverable, and less dangerous for crossing intersections against the fact that you still do need to stop at red lights and be safe when going through intersections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other states or countries that have similar laws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;49-720. STOPPING — TURN AND STOP SIGNALS.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A person operating a bicycle or human-powered vehicle approaching a stop sign shall slow down and, if required for safety, stop before entering the &#xA;  intersection. After slowing to a reasonable speed or stopping, the person shall yield the right-of-way to any vehicle in the intersection or approaching on &#xA;  another highway so closely as to constitute an immediate hazard during the time the person is moving across or within the intersection or junction of &#xA;  highways, except that a person after slowing to a reasonable speed and yielding the right-of-way if required, may cautiously make a turn or proceed through &#xA;  the intersection without stopping. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A person operating a bicycle or human-powered vehicle approaching a steady red traffic control light shall stop before entering the intersection and shall &#xA;  yield to all other traffic. Once the person has yielded, he may proceed through the steady red light with caution. Provided however, that a person after slowing &#xA;  to a reasonable speed and yielding the right-of-way if required, may cautiously make a right-hand turn. A left-hand turn onto a one-way highway may be &#xA;  made on a red light after stopping and yielding to other traffic. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="454" LastEditDate="2010-09-28T04:34:08.973" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T06:57:03.430" Title="Which states or countries have stop-sign-as-yield laws for bicyclists (Idaho stop law)?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1024" CreationDate="2010-09-18T20:58:38.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.downtube.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Downtube&lt;/a&gt; is well-thought-of, and they ship internationally. They also accept returns, although you'd be out the money for shipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dahon has several bikes under $400US/$412CAD - the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thorusa.com/dahon/current/boardwalk1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boardwalk&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thorusa.com/dahon/current/ecoD7.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eco&lt;/a&gt; (and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thorusa.com/dahon/current/speedd7.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;7-speed Speed&lt;/a&gt; is you can stretch your budget a little). Dahon is likely the best choice for a budget folder, and they have &lt;a href=&quot;http://us.dahon.com/locator/results?distance%5bpostal_code%5d=&amp;amp;distance%5bsearch_distance%5d=20&amp;amp;distance%5bsearch_units%5d=mile&amp;amp;tid=All&amp;amp;country=ca&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dealers in Canada&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-18T20:58:38.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1038" CreationDate="2010-09-19T02:28:06.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure it'll fit your needs, but I absolutely swear by my Kona Dew FS. (although I've removed the suspension fork and locked the seat post, so it's not really FS anymore...) I've put over 17,000km on it in all-weather commuting, and done a couple of 200km rides as well. Great bike, for well under $1000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-09-19T02:28:06.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2010-09-19T13:06:43.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to all of the suggestions already, and slightly off-topic, if you're riding your bike in heavy rain and you're on skinny wheels and tyres be very careful when riding through puddles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even apparently shallow puddles can conceal fairly deep potholes and a buckled wheel or being thrown off your bike into the path of oncoming traffic could put a serious dampener on your enjoyment of the ride or prevent you making it to work completely (if it's a commute).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-09-19T13:06:43.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1055" CreationDate="2010-09-19T16:33:31.910" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Idaho passed their law in 1982 and it was brought up in the Oregon legislature but &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeportland.org/2009/04/20/no-idaho-stops-in-oregon-law-fails-to-win-necessary-support-17477&quot;&gt;failed to win enough support&lt;/a&gt; to be passed.  California and Montana &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeportland.org/2009/01/14/idaho-stop-law-faq-13387&quot;&gt;have considered adopting similar laws&lt;/a&gt;, but they have not yet been brought to their respective legislatures.  So, in the US, it sounds like Idaho is still the only state with such a law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an an animation explaining the law: &lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/4140910&quot;&gt;http://vimeo.com/4140910&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2010-09-19T16:33:31.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1065" CreationDate="2010-09-19T19:56:25.173" Score="30" ViewCount="1033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to have continuous camera coverage while commuting on city streets, in order to have evidence in any collision.  I have been experimenting with an ATC3K mounted on the pannier rack, facing backwards.  At 15 fps on a 2Gb SD card, the maximum it can use, it provides about an hour to 90 minutes of footage.  I manually stop and start it at the beginning and ending of each ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The picture quality is adequate at 640x480. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It cost about $100&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain and freewheel clatter mask any other sounds.&#xA;The control screen is hard to see and the buttons, which are under a water-resistant rubber cover, are hard to press.  As a result, it takes about a minute of button mashing to erase the SD card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fairly narrow field of view.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full coverage would need two cameras, and twice the amount of fussing, before and after each ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What cameras and mounting arrangements might be better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="461" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-19T20:20:19.760" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T12:07:48.540" Title="What is a good camera arrangement for city riding?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;technology&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1062" CreationDate="2010-09-19T20:43:31.370" Score="7" ViewCount="2028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep getting blow outs in my front tube and always in the same location: right next to the valve stem. The blow outs look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mwXHp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this same tube, there is wear on exactly the other side of the valve stem.  I have checked the tire and the wheel and there doesn't appear to be anything sharp enough there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can cause this? I suspect it's something that I'm doing. I'm tired of buying new tubes, as I hear these flats cannot be patched. If it matters, it's a presta valve and I usually inflate to 110 psi, the maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T22:25:45.237" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T22:25:45.237" Title="Frequent blow outs in the same location" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1061" CreationDate="2010-09-19T20:48:49.230" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check inside the rim at the point where the punctures occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the rim tape intact? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a spoke push through when weight is placed on the bike? One of my friends had a problem like this, and it turned out that when he sat on the bike his weight caused the end of a spoke to push through the rim and puncture his tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-09-19T20:48:49.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2010-09-19T20:57:46.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of Pro Gold. Year round, all weather. Road bike. Commuter bike. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.progoldmfr.com/products2/ProLink_Chain_Lube.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.progoldmfr.com/products2/ProLink_Chain_Lube.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the Pro Gold company got their start making lubricants for mining equipment. So think of lubricating metal in adverse conditions. Anyway, the downside to their bike chain lube is that it can be hard to locate locally. It's available online though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2010-09-19T20:57:46.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1060" CreationDate="2010-09-19T21:41:36.803" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good success with the Go Pro cameras for whitewater kayaking. We generally mount them on our helmets. They stand up to quite a beating and you can get more on a card than the camera you ask about above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can mount it on your helmet then it will be pointing where you look and I think you'll have better success getting shots of any collision since you're often looking at it as it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a blog of someone doing the same thing on his daily commute. &lt;a href=&quot;http://cranks-on-cam.com/&quot;&gt;http://cranks-on-cam.com/&lt;/a&gt; Looks like he's using a Drift Inovation (http://www.driftinnovation.com/x170-action-camera.php) and there is a video of his mount on the gear page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-19T21:41:36.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1061" CreationDate="2010-09-19T21:55:26.390" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a presta tube on a rim designed for schraeder valves.  This would cause wear around the valve stem.  See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1/can-i-use-a-presta-tube-in-a-schrader-rim&quot;&gt;&quot;Can I usea a presta tube in a schraeder rim?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; for more details.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn out rim tape near the valve.  Does the tape look worn?  Is there some nasty edge or burr under the tape that's getting through?  Try replacing the rim tape or doubling it up in the area where you're getting the flats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubes getting nicked when you install them.  When replacing your front tube, do you put the valve stem in first or last?  (first is better)  Is it possible that the tube is getting pinched against the rim edge when putting the tire back on?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2010-09-19T21:55:26.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1061" CreationDate="2010-09-19T23:07:20.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture of your blow-out doesn't show up for me, so I'm guessing a bit based on your description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you use the little nut that comes with the tube and threads down the stem of the presta valve? Typically, you'd thread this nut on and screw it down to the rim after installing and inflating the tube. The nut provides a bit of support for the vavle stem against the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using this nut, you may be overtightening it. The symptoms if this is the case will be the valve stem separating from the tube where it joins the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this sounds like your problem, I'd suggest you either don't fit the nut or you only fit the nut after you've inflated the tube in the tyre, and that you make sure you don't tighten the nut too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-09-19T23:07:20.583" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1100" CreationDate="2010-09-20T01:32:16.507" Score="20" ViewCount="78757" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am commuting 7 miles a day (round trip) in all weather in New England (temperate, moderately wet climate, cold winters). Overall I am putting about 1000 miles per year on my commuter bike, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/lifestyle/2306/32162/&quot;&gt;2009 Giant Transend DX&lt;/a&gt; with lower-end Shimano components (Alivio and whatnot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lube my chain and check brakes and tire pressure weekly, but how often do I need to get the hubs and bottom-bracket taken apart and lubed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastEditorUserId="3505" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T14:44:11.797" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T12:27:49.080" Title="How often should I grease and repack my hubs and bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1068" CreationDate="2010-09-20T02:21:59.387" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very subjective opinion.  A standard like &quot;change your oil every 3000 miles&quot; doesn't exist as far as I know, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bamacyclist.com/articles/maintenanceschedule.htm&quot;&gt;although here is a suggested one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride about 3,000-4,000 miles a year and my rule of thumb is to do the hubs every 300 - 500 miles or so, and the bottom bracket twice a year.  Works out to a hub overhaul about every other month. Both of these are more frequent than the suggested schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there have been a couple of times I have ridden in an area and ended up with the bottom bracket or hubs completely submerged. When that happens I like to overhaul them at my earliest convenience; preferably within a day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point here is - I do the maintenance myself.  Hubs are easy and you should be able to learn to do them yourself from a book and with a $10-15 investment in tools - bottom brackets are a little harder and you will probably just want to include that as part of a &quot;shop service&quot; unless you want to learn and invest a little more in doing your own maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-09-20T03:21:11.680" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T03:21:11.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1243" CreationDate="2010-09-20T02:32:52.887" Score="12" ViewCount="10314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the only way to use them together is to put on dry lube first and then wet lube.&#xA;Will the wet lube hold? Will applying both give you the best that each has to offer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Just found this video on YouTube. It teaches you three techniques to clean your chain. If you forward to timecode 8:20 of the video. He mentions that you can put on Finish Line's Dry Teflon Lube and later you can put another lube on top of it:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/kMGxiLc8jHE?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if this is ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Just bought some Finish Line products to do some chain maintenance. On the back of the Finish Line product pamphlet they have a list called &quot;Pro Team Mechanic Tips&quot;. Two of the items on the list contain techniques that use two different lubes/greases on the same chain...I've included them below...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In extremely wet conditions, some mechanics will lube the chain with WET lube, then apply a top coating of Teflon Grease to the chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In semi-wet conditions, some will apply DRY Lube to the chain as a base coat, and then a top coat of WET lube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think based on this list and the video link I found above.  Applying both lubes is an acceptable technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T20:49:35.733" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:49:35.733" Title="Will using dry lube and wet lube together give you better protection/performance than from using just one of them?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1055" CreationDate="2010-09-20T03:16:41.470" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Utah also considered it, but several groups including a large group of experienced bicycle commuters opposed the change.  The main reasons are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It further designates cyclists as a &quot;different&quot; road user, possibly making it easier to limit our access to the roadway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has the potential of increasing the conflicts at intersections (the most dangerous area for cyclists) because cyclists can behave differently than other vehicles, and motorists may not know what to expect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I like maintaining momentum, and recognize that I can see farther, sooner than motorists, I believe that being predictable is more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T12:31:50.783" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T12:31:50.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1070" CreationDate="2010-09-20T03:25:10.033" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think so - they are designed to be used individually, and for a specific purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/633/213&quot;&gt;Like I answered to a previous question&lt;/a&gt;, the Wet / Dry naming of the product is a hint as to what conditions the product is designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet lube is typically more like motor or sewing machine oil, and is designed to coat the chain and protect it in wet conditions. This will pick up dirt and gunk, but it will be mostly kept on the surface and will help keep water and other corrosive substances out of the links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry lube is usually a teflon lube in an evaporating or wax base, so the teflon particles stay in the links without a lot of wet &quot;gunk&quot; left on the chain to pick up sand, dust, grime, etc. and is great for dry, dusty conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T03:25:10.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1077" CreationDate="2010-09-20T04:55:50.033" Score="46" ViewCount="8074" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four times a year I teach a workshop called &quot;Be a Bike Commuter&quot; for the local university's community education program.  It's mostly based on my experience and information from the League of American Bicyclists.  I am looking at making some changes for the next session and am wondering, from other experienced commuters, what things you wish someone would have told you that would have made your first few commutes more successful and/or enjoyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="3644" LastEditDate="2012-05-08T16:04:16.153" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T14:31:05.420" Title="What do you wish someone had told you before your first commute?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="38" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="23" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-20T06:15:56.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1025" CreationDate="2010-09-20T04:56:15.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At least in my experience, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.risseracing.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Risse Racing&lt;/a&gt; shocks require relatively minimal maintenance. A quick glance shows that their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.risseracing.com/coilshocks.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jupiter 5&lt;/a&gt; (and 5R) are definitely available in/around the length you've asked about (though I should add that those are both coil shocks, and my own experience has all been with their air shocks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't list lengths for the air shocks, but do claim that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.risseracing.com/airshocks.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Genesis&lt;/a&gt; (for one) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.risseracing.com/applications.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fits most FS frames&lt;/a&gt;. I &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; speak about this one from experience -- I've been riding a Santa Cruz Tazmon with a Genesis damper for a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; time now (mine is a pre-production frame with no serial number that I got before the Tazmon officially started production in 1993, and it's had the same shock on it ever since, and required only &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; minimal maintenance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most rear shocks are mounted pretty similarly -- though the Tazmon is one that actually does have a rather unusual mounting system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastEditorUserId="394" LastEditDate="2010-09-20T05:15:00.713" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T05:15:00.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-20T05:16:29.553" Score="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;Occupy enough lane to make cars think twice about 'sneaking' by you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get fenders even on your nice road bike a wet butt sucks when you ride home and your shorts are cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave early enough to enjoy the view. My best commute I watched 6 eagles in a field 10' away. Wouldn't have been able to stop for a few minutes if I hadn't left early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T05:16:29.553" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-20T06:15:56.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1070" CreationDate="2010-09-20T06:08:06.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doubtful.  Differing lubricants can act as solvents for each other, causing it to drip out and be lubeless.  This was attributed as the cause of Alaska Airlines Flight 261 crashing; differing maintenance crews lubed the horizontal trim jackscrew with two different lubricants.  They dripped out, the part failed, and the jet crashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T06:08:06.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-20T07:56:42.187" Score="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scout and rehearse your route before you start.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really an exercise in two parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First part is to determine what your initial routes from home to work and from work to home (not necessarily the same, certainly not in detail) are going to be. And to work out where you're going to secure your bike for the day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second part is to ride the route with no time pressure &quot;off peak&quot; (ideal is probably on a Sunday) so that you know where you're going and you don't get surprised (lost!) when you're riding to arrive on time - it should also enable you clear up any grey areas on your planned route. As importantly, this will give you an indication of how long you should allow for the journey. If you know where you're going and how long its going to take you're going to be more able to focus your attention on riding safely and less distracted by navigation and time concerns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your commute is established I'd suggest that fairly regularly you allow yourself a bit more time (much easier going home!) to explore alternative routes - especially for urban commuters. The most obvious routes are not always the best, you may find shortcuts that are faster or routes that are prettier or have less traffic or smoother surfaces or that you simply like better (or that are not really very different but allow you to vary your route from time to time &quot;just because&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-05-08T12:04:15.900" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T12:04:15.900" CommentCount="7" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-20T07:56:42.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1068" CreationDate="2010-09-20T08:32:05.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 7 miles a day on &lt;strong&gt;road riding&lt;/strong&gt;, assuming you have well sealed hubs and bottom brackets I would expect you to be able to go well over a year before having to grease and repack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on the space you have and if you are happy to do the work your self – if you have a warm dry workshop then you may decide that doing maintenance more often is a good trade of to make your components last longer.   However if doing the maintenance is a pain to you, or you are having to pay a bike shop with all the inconvenience of taking the bike to the stop in your car, you may decide that you would rather just replace the bike/components after a few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greasing and packing your hubs every time to put on a new tire on is a good option, as it is easy to remember to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally with your type of riding, only consider getting the bottom bracket done when the bike has to go into the shop for something else or after a few years if you have not had to visit the bikes shop in the mean time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T08:32:05.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1055" CreationDate="2010-09-20T08:49:34.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;strong&gt;UK cyclist are not allowed to go through red lights&lt;/strong&gt;, however at &lt;strong&gt;some&lt;/strong&gt; junction the safest time for a cyclist to move of when waiting in the advanced stop box at a red list is just before the light turns green.  E.g after all the other “legs” have a red light and the cyclist can see that all traffic have stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In is normal practise in &lt;strong&gt;some&lt;/strong&gt; towns…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a law allowing cyclists to treat a red light as a “stop” could work well, however I think the “come to a complete stop” needs to be enforced well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don’t have many “stop signs” in the UK, the ones we have are on junctions when you cannot see to “give way” without stopping, so in the UK I think cyclist should always stop at a “stop sign”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some parts of the EU, there are separate lights for cyclists at junctions that turn green a short time before the normal lights turn green, so letting all cyclists clear the junction before motor vehicles start moving.&#xA;(The fact that in most of the UK the advanced stop lines for cyclists are ignored by car drivers so are worthless due to the lack of enforcement may make this pointless) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T08:49:34.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1070" CreationDate="2010-09-20T08:55:12.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some experimentation with dry and wet lubes I've found that they are -indeed- designed for what they're named after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summer I'll use dry lubricant. My chain will pick up less dust and other crap but if I get caught in the rain I need to clean and re-oil my chain immediately after or it'll start to rust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the year I use wet lubricant. My chain picks up more gunk but less of it comes off the road when I pass, so that evens out, and with the wet lube my chain can take a few showers before I have to clean and re-oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T08:55:12.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-20T09:33:04.527" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how you'd teach it, but I think an ability to relax and just get on with it has made my commute much more pleasant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride about 12 miles each way, through some fairly busy bits of London. There are some bike lanes, advanced stop lines, separated paths and all sorts of possible things to confuse the new bike commuter, but the thing that obviously gets to a lot of people is that there is just so much going on. The noise, the bustle, cars and lorries going in all directions, shouts from pedestrians, not necessarily at you (but sometimes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to pay attention to the road, its surface, the upcoming junctions and obstacles, but beyond that, just create a little bubble of calm. You might be faster than other people, you might be slower, but don't let them distract you or at least try to reduce the amount of road rage you create. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see dozens of things on every ride that could (and used) to annoy me - bikes going through red lights or riding on pavements, car drivers cutting up me or other bikes, talking on their mobile phones or turning without indicating - but since I've stopped worrying, I'm enjoying the ride a lot more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just worry about yourself and let the others find their own path - and every now and then, just pass a comment to a neighbour when you're waiting at a junction. You'll both be happier for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T09:33:04.527" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-20T09:33:04.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-20T13:23:46.867" Score="23" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a bike that is the proper size and adjustment for you. Especially if your commute is pretty long (10k or more). Bad ergonomics on your bike can lead to injuries that slowly creep up on you and can take very long to heal. I've had a thigh injury that was caused by a bad saddle that took 3 months of no cycling to heal!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get cycling gloves. They keep your hands warmer and they provide some extra damping of the vibrations of your handlebars. If R.S.I. is a risk in your profession these vibrations can aggravate it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to find out if there are showers you can use anywhere in or near the building (think the local health club). Quite often, against all expectations, there will be. Ask around, ask the building manager or concierge, ask other bike-commuters. Depending on the length and intensity of your ride this can make your workday much more pleasant for you and your co-workers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T13:23:46.867" CommentCount="8" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-20T13:23:46.867" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-20T13:36:52.890" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is good for any ride, not just commuting, but sometimes people think that since they're &quot;only&quot; commuting it's not as important:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proper clothing &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; make a difference!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate your tires properly!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-09-20T19:00:58.743" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T19:00:58.743" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-20T13:36:52.890" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1070" CreationDate="2010-09-20T13:40:34.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will work one against the other. If it was such a good idea, you could probably find a pre-mixed bottle at your local bike store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T13:40:34.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="821" CreationDate="2010-09-20T15:41:11.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Build quality is more important than brand or cost of the rims, spokes, or hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to an earlier post, you don't want to change your wheelsize.  And 28&quot; and 29&quot; both refer to 700c wheels (and hence are the same size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="bsk" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T15:41:11.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1007" CreationDate="2010-09-20T16:27:29.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get measured 'properly' and then compare that to your frame - and also consider what you're planning to do on the machine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have drop handlebars (e.g. like a road bike) and might be using them a lot, then you'll expect a different setup in comparison to using straight (or courier bars) or aerobars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also different bikes have different geometries, i.e. the lengths of the various tubes. I have a relatively long back and short legs and I know that certain brands are wrong for me (i.e. the frame is too short and I am very cramped over the handlebars because I've a downtube correct for my legs, but a top tube too short for my back). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@curtismchale gives a good set of things you can do yourself, but there really is no substitute for expert advice and measurement here. A few centimetres here and then, a spacer on the stem or longer cranks or dropping the saddle ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T16:27:29.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-20T16:39:54.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A well maintained bike (tire pressure, oil chain...) with the proper equipement makes a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good mud guards are definitly one of the best improvements I had on my bike along with a good lighting system (cars seem to leave a wider space when they overpass).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="kevin" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T16:39:54.963" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-20T16:39:54.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-20T21:33:40.927" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a seat bag and have at least one spare innertube, a multi-tool, spare CO2 (if that's your inflator of choice, a frame pump otherwise), and park a $10 bill in there.  It's not a matter of 'if' you have a mechanical, but 'when'.  Anticipate it, prepare for it, and deal with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than once (because I don't learn quickly) I got as far from either end of my ride and had a flat.  I ended up riding home on my rim, which is BAD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally I have a laminated photocopy of my driver's license in case I'm unresponsive, but that may be overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T21:33:40.927" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-20T21:33:40.927" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-20T22:12:40.333" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Claim your space on busy roads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When approaching parked cars, start pulling out into the road well before the parked car. This gives drivers coming up behind you notice that they're going to have to leave you some space so you can get around the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I sometimes pretend to wobble when I hear a vehicle approaching from behind that sounds like it's fast or big. This should worry the driver a bit in thinking you're a novice so that they give you a bit more space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess, I'm saying, be confident in claiming the road you need because not all drivers will be thoughtful enough to give you that space if you don't ask for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully that makes sense, it's a little tricky to describe. But, last week I went out with my girlfriend at the weekend to practice the route she was going to start commuting, and I just felt that by not cycling assertively, she was allowing cars to take up space and get closer to her than they should have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T22:12:40.333" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-20T22:12:40.333" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8050" CreationDate="2010-09-20T22:25:30.203" Score="31" ViewCount="20614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd really like to be able to commute to work. It's a long way though - 25 miles away. Too far for every day, but maybe I can cycle it once or twice a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried it on my old mountain bike a couple of times and it took me 2 hours each way, and I was very tired. I'm hoping a new bike might make it more do-able. I really can't decide what kind of bike to get though. My route has about 10 miles in the city, and 15 miles on country roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like something reasonably light. Hybrids look a bit on the heavy side. Full on road-bikes look a bit too aggressive, and I don't think I'd like the drop handle-bars. Something like a more relaxed road-bike with flat bars would be good, but on digging through the web I'm having trouble finding anything that looks like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend a suitable bike that would fit what I'm looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in the UK and could spend up to £1000 for the right thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T14:52:05.187" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T04:34:41.873" Title="For a long (25mile each way) commute, what kind of bike should I look at?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2010-09-20T23:54:55.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of manufacturers sell something like a road bike without drop handlebars—variously categorized as urban, city, or touring.  I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marinbikes.com/2011/bike_specs.php?Lucas_Valley&amp;amp;serialnum=471&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marin Alp Series&lt;/a&gt; that has flat handlebars, with some short bar ends that allow you to get a bit of a different position for comfort on longer rides.  You might consider something with drops which will make longer rides (I would consider 25 miles a good length) more comfortable: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/steel-road/clubman-11/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raleigh Clubman&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/urban/portland/portland/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek Portland&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker_complete/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly's Long Haul Trucker&lt;/a&gt; are good options, but there are certainly more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2010-09-20T23:54:55.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2010-09-21T00:02:36.073" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to second @freiheit suggestion that you reconsider the drop bars.  You commute is going to be roughly 90+ minutes each way in an urban setting and you will want the extra had positions.  You can still get a geometry that is relaxed and gives you a more upright position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my commute got longer (15+ miles one way) I switched from a converted hardtail (rack, slicks and fenders) to a 'touring' bike.  This is a 'road' bike with drop bars, a more relaxed geometry, longer chainstays (to accommodate a rack an panniers) and lot's of rack and bottle braze-ons.  The gearing is wide, so hills and wind don't bother me.  The forks and stays are wide as well, with cantilever brakes to accommodate fenders. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/744804&quot;&gt;This is similar to the bike I own&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all is said and done, the best suggestion is to go to your local bike shop (the one you go to all the time for parts and advice, right?) and describe to the staff the way you expect to use your bike.  They will have the best suggestions based on your riding style, your requirements, your body geometry and your budget. As an added bonus, you can test ride their suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T00:02:36.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2010-09-21T01:35:46.527" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would defiantly &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; rush out and buy a new expensive bike.  Here are the steps you should follow: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Try to make your bike faster.  There are  a few ways that you can do this but I am going to make two suggestions that will be cheap and easy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get slick (smooth) tires.  The should put you back around $60 but should give you a good idea of what a road bike might feel like.  The difference in speed will be shocking to you.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put some bar ends on your bike these will help you to change your body position on your ride.  (More positions = greater happiness)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5H36.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bar ends&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Before you buy a &quot;new kind of bike&quot; (ie: road bike, hybrid, etc) make sure that you try it.  I just bought an older road bike on craig's list for $20.  The bike was in very poor condition but it allowed me to figure out what riding a road bike is like.  I upgraded a few weeks later knowing what I really wanted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know what you want I would mess around with your bike a bit and then buy a couple throw-aways.  I bet that you could do that for $50 - $200 (not including resale revenue) but you will know what you want before you drop the big dollars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T01:35:46.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2010-09-21T03:12:25.487" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;50 miles per day is a fair amount of riding.  4 hours sounds about right when you take into account traffic stops, hills, etc.  If you're not used to putting in this kind of distance -- not to mention a full day's work too -- then it's not surprising that you're tired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before splurging on a new bike, try some of the modifications others have suggested.  Narrow slick tires can really make a mountain bike feel faster.  But you're still going to have to work on getting used to the distance -- going a bit faster won't build up your endurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to build up to this commute would be to ride only one way per day.  If transit is an option, ride in one day, leave the bike overnight and transit home.  Then on the second day, transit back and ride home.  If you can't do transit but can transport your bike by car, drive your car in the first morning then ride home in the evening.  Then ride in the next morning and drive back home on the second day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T03:12:25.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1098" CreationDate="2010-09-21T05:15:42.593" Score="7" ViewCount="3358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to make my own panniers out of a set of army map bags -- these are small bags, about as large as a small front pannier, with a rigid back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hooks I'm planning to use attach to the bag with two screws and nuts. I'll have to drill or punch a hole in the canvas and packing to get them to stay. How can I seal the holes so that the bags will stay fairly water resistant? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WB0Kf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is a bit of a test question -- will the board cover DIY-style topics like this? It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a real project I have going, though.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T17:15:37.827" Title="Making panniers out of canvas map bags -- how to seal after the build?" Tags="&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2010-09-21T08:12:59.850" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is to have a rack on your car to transport your bike, then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You drive to the outside of the town where you work and park before you hit the traffic jams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then get the bike of the car and cycle past all the traffic jams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And/Or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 1 am – you drive to work &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 1 pm – you leave your car at work and cycle home&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 2 am – you cycle to work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Day 2 pm – you leave your bike at work and drive home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you can take your bike on the train for part of the way, if so you may benefit from a folding bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T08:12:59.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1096" CreationDate="2010-09-21T08:25:27.733" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assuming you are going to put some washers on the inside of the bug so the bolt/net holds well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect silicone sealant under the washers (on the inside of the bug) and the clips combined with a rubber washers between the head of the bolts and clip and the inside washer and net would do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rubber Washer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pannier clip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silicone Sealant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silicon Sealant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metal Washer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rubber Washer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Net&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However after saying the above, as the clips will be on the inside of the bugs, you will have to be in very strong rain before they leak, you may well find you have other leaks.   &lt;strong&gt;A simple small waterproof rucksack liner inside of the bag may be the best option.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2010-09-21T16:12:17.463" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T16:12:17.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2010-09-21T08:28:07.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've tried it on your &quot;old mountain bike&quot; then almost anything you could take from the shop when you walk in with your £1000 with be a better experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're in the UK, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/money/2010/aug/13/cycle-to-work-scheme-tax&quot;&gt;while you can&lt;/a&gt;, I'd look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclescheme.co.uk/&quot;&gt;Cycle to Work&lt;/a&gt; scheme (if your employer operates it). It does at least make your money go a little further (and gives you longer to pay it off). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top allowance is £1000 (can include accessories but can also, generally, be topped up). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would second some of the other suggestions that you experiment with drop handlebars, perhaps looking at some of the cyclocross bikes (e.g. like the Ridley Crossbow), but if you're set on the flat bars maybe some of the hybrids (e.g. Specialized Sirrus). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 50 mile round trip every day is quite aggressive - that's one of the longest regular commutes I'd have heard of - good luck with that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T08:28:07.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1068" CreationDate="2010-09-21T09:15:38.120" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the spec of your bike it says the BB is a cartridge unit. This probably isn't serviceable -- it's designed to be replaced when worn out, so just keep riding it until it grinds or gets excessively sloppy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hubs might be serviceable. If you ride a lot in nasty conditions, or you're aggressive with the degreaser you might want to service them. However, if they're well-sealed (like most modern hubs and in particular Shimano hubs) then they almost never need servicing. If you're worried, learn how to service them yourself and see what they look like. If they're still packed with grease and nice and clean inside they don't need servicing. Servicing them isn't hard but it's a bit fiddly -- you'll lose a bearing under the fridge, then you won't be able to remember if there should be 9 or 10 balls, and whether they're 3/32&quot; or 1/8&quot; or 5/32&quot;, and so on. Don't do it for fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a lot. My Campagnolo Neutrons have probably seen 10,000+ km. In that time I've had a look at the bearings once or twice. Still greasy, still smooth. The rims will wear out before the hub bearings do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="272" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T09:15:38.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1068" CreationDate="2010-09-21T09:43:55.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine goes to the trouble of installing a grease nipple in the shell of each hub. Then, instead of having to take the hub apart, all you need to do is pump more grease in every so often and wipe the excess that comes out around the axle away. This has the advantage of pushing any dirt and gunk out of the bearings when you add more grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T09:43:55.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="858" CreationDate="2010-09-21T10:06:37.303" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;@darkcanuck has the right idea with his explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting brakes is easiest if you've got a friend to help you or a &quot;third-hand&quot; tool that you can use to hold the brakes all the way in while you adjust the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic process that I'd follow for setting up brakes is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that the brake pads don't need replacing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your friend or your &quot;third-hand&quot; tool to hold the brake closed so that both brakes touch the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind the barrel adjuster on your brake levers in so that it is as far in as it can go, then wind it back out a turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the bolt that holds the end of the cable to the brake mechanism. Loosen this bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the end of the brake cable as tight as you can and while holding this tension tighten the bolt that holds the end of the brake cable to the brake mechanism.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your friend / tool can now be removed from the brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind the barrel adjuster on the brake lever all the way in. This should let the brakes out a little bit so they clear the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the balance of the brakes (see @darkcanuck's post). If one brake pad is rubbing adjust the balance so that both brake pads are clear of the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your rim has a few wobbles to it, you may need to wind the barrel adjuster out a bit more when you set the tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T10:06:37.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1109" CreationDate="2010-09-21T10:14:24.440" Score="57" ViewCount="375425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious what a reasonable speed to travel on a bike is.  Speed will obviously vary based on the conditions in which you are riding.  I am planning on taking the GPS out with me this weekend to see how quickly I go.  Before I did that I wanted to get some benchmarks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part I will be riding an older road bike on crushed rock.  (Very small rock, with good rolling resistance but still much worse than pavement).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also be riding that road bike on the road (i.e.: pavement in North America, Tarmac in Great Britain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a reasonable speed on these two surfaces?  I am more interested in speed over long distances, i.e. if you were going 80 km what would your target speed be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-09-18T13:54:27.803" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T20:03:35.130" Title="What is a reasonable speed for long distances on a bike?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1103" CreationDate="2010-09-21T10:28:04.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If if you live somewhere where the law lets you ride on the pavement, you should not be going over about 8mph as pavements are for walkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T10:28:04.200" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1103" CreationDate="2010-09-21T11:04:49.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long is a piece of string? Your speed is totally dependent on your surface, equipment, bike type ... and you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep a record of most of my training ride (for the last few years with GPS, but summary data going back further) and compete with myself. If you're interested in what you should/could be doing, maybe liaise with a local club. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my commute my rolling average with lots of braking and accelerating, is a good mph or two lower than training rides (further, but quieter roads) with race pace being another mph or two higher; cyclo-cross and off-road is completely terrain dependent so your mileage really will vary enormously  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you have professional road aspirations, you'll want to average at least 25-27mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T15:49:34.610" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T15:49:34.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2010-09-21T13:27:40.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;For MTB&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The camelbak is very nice, since it is cleaner, and easier to drink. But I prefer to fill it with only water because it is harder to clean. So I take a bottle with sportdrink to get some sugar on longer trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;For the road&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottles are good, but on longer trips I like to have some extra water with me. So I also take my Camelbak with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On longer trips (3 hours or more) I take bottles of sportdrink and a Camelbak with water, both on my MTB and on my road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T13:27:40.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-21T13:54:05.240" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Multitool&lt;/strong&gt; - Contains the tools you're likely to need to do emergency repairs on a bike. Common allen keys, chain tool, and sometimes tire levers are included. This and some tubes and a pump or CO2 inflator will get you home.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T8U6F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-24T04:31:37.740" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T04:31:37.740" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-21T13:54:05.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1103" CreationDate="2010-09-21T15:02:58.410" Score="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speed varies widely by cyclist, depending on fitness, road conditions and traffic.  Some of my observations (cruising speed based on a flat, paved road in good condition):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20km/h (12.4 mph) - many &quot;occasional&quot; cyclists ride around this speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25km/h (15.5 mph) - most commuters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30km/h (18.6 mph) - fast commuters, slower roadies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;35km/h (21.7 mph) - fast roadies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any faster than that on a long flat and they're probably a racer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(based on who I pass and who passes me when riding around 30km/h)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Average speed will usually be slower than you think, once traffic stops and hills are factored in, especially over longer distances (like 80km).  On my 21km commute I'll hit 30+ on every long stretch I can, but my average still only works out to 24km/h.  For longer rides I cruise around 27-28 km/h, which is more sustainable; averaging 22-24 over a very long ride (200km) is a great pace for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="25694" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T00:34:32.720" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T00:34:32.720" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1096" CreationDate="2010-09-21T17:15:37.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you've seen this Instructable: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-Paniers-from-canvas-military-surplus-map-b/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-Paniers-from-canvas-military-surplus-map-b/&lt;/a&gt; on this, unfortunately it doesn't talk about waterproofing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use some sort of silicon sealant, or rubber sealant. Would a patch from a puncture repair kit and some glue (you might need different glue than with an inner tube)  do the trick, if the patch isn't big enough air mattresses usually come with a bigger patch. Alternatively you could look for some sort of tape with which to tape over the washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T17:15:37.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-21T18:13:06.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far I've been happy just utilizing the stock external speakers built into my phone with it mounted on my handlebars. On my roadbike, I'm typically close enough to the handlebars to hear it fine and I can still hear the noise from the road perfectly well. It's been plenty loud for my needs. The only thing that may be an issue is being slightly embarrassed pulling up next to another cyclist with music playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it'll help anyone, I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002CQTYDY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this mount&lt;/a&gt; for several months now on both an iPhone 3G that I got rid of and my original Droid. It actually fits both, surprisingly (it's actually more snug on the Droid, believe it or not). It's quite nice to be able to stream music and track your ride while cycling as well. Obviously experiences will differ based on phone though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just my two cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T18:13:06.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1113" CreationDate="2010-09-21T20:14:30.437" Score="5" ViewCount="3732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm installing a basket on my cruiser, and getting some of the allen screws into the fork braze-ons is rough going. It feels like there's dirt or grease inside the threads of the braze-ons. Forcing the screws in could damage the threads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I clean out the inside threads thoroughly, &lt;strong&gt;using common household items?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Folks installing racks and fenders will often run into the same problems. I mention it here so searches on those terms will show this question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-23T01:04:34.797" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T04:00:41.057" Title="How to clean out the inside threads of a braze-on?" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2010-09-21T20:36:49.073" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Q-tips and a degreaser (WD40 or similar will work).  Spray on, wipe off.  Soaking helps cut hard to remove grime.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-22T20:46:25.723" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T20:46:25.723" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="960" CreationDate="2010-09-21T20:47:31.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://topeak.com/products/Bags/MTXOfficeBag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak MTX Office Bag&lt;/a&gt; claims to fit a 17&quot; laptop in a &quot;padded laptop compartment&quot;. The bag will only work (well) with a Topeak MTX rack, but with the right rack the bag will slide and snap securely to the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like it'd survive a direct collision, but in that case the laptop would probably be the least of your worries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="460" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T20:47:31.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2010-09-21T21:21:55.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet will be an appropriate diameter brass thread cleaning brush:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MFOIL.gif&quot; alt=&quot;thread cleaning brushes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon sells &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_gw/102-2288794-0413724?url=search-alias%3daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=twisted+brass+brush&amp;amp;go.x=0&amp;amp;go.y=0&amp;amp;go=go&quot;&gt;a few options&lt;/a&gt;, but a local hardware store will probably have more options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-09-21T23:09:52.190" LastActivityDate="2010-09-21T23:09:52.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1117" CreationDate="2010-09-22T04:26:28.227" Score="5" ViewCount="9991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a handful of rusty screws on my bike; where can I find such small parts?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JZOlq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rusty handlebar bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RNaKP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rusty stem bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T04:12:06.573" Title="Where can I find replacement screws?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2010-09-22T05:30:26.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bike screws are 4, 5, or 6 mm allen bolts. Any bike shop will also have these in stock. You could probably hunt up some stuff in your local hardware store, just bring your bike along. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the net:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loosescrews.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Loose Screws bicycle small parts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ecom1.planetbike.com/smallparts.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Planet Bike&lt;/a&gt; does free shipping on small parts (scroll down a bit to rack hardware and such)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T05:30:26.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2010-09-22T11:38:29.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tuneintotraffic.co.uk/#/earphones/4537676007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tune into Traphic&lt;/a&gt; has just got &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-11376809&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;news headlines&lt;/a&gt; (about halfway down the page) in the UK talking about the risk of listening to music while cycling/walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T11:38:29.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2010-09-22T11:42:28.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike shops usually carry even the most obscure screws. It's a good thing to get to know your local bike shop and be &quot;friendly&quot; with its staff, when you're missing small parts like that (a screw or two, or small replaceable parts from the derailleur let's say) they might even give it to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T11:42:28.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-22T11:46:12.907" Score="60" ViewCount="215406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got insufficient space to store my bike inside. I fear however that it will rust away within a few years if I store the bike outside. My question is twofold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will storing a bike outside be a problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can I do to prevent rust and possibly other types of decay?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="480" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T18:28:35.533" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T12:13:45.973" Title="How to store a bike outside and still avoid rapid decay?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1125" CreationDate="2010-09-22T13:16:20.947" Score="33" ViewCount="6029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding a mountain bike for years, but I prefer to go longer distances on paved ground, so I think a road bike would be better. When I ask what is a good bike, I don't need brands or models - more like what components of the bike should I look for, and what should I avoid? Additionally, is it necessary to &quot;go big or don't go at all&quot; as far as spending - getting a real good quality road bike for $500 to a few thousand, or should I cheap out on a $100-200 road bike, as it is my first, then get a better one when I'm more experienced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="481" LastEditorUserId="26152" LastEditDate="2017-01-14T20:17:09.643" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T20:17:09.643" Title="What makes a good entry level road bike?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;price&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2010-09-22T13:35:26.760" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;A small &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asgardsss.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;shed&lt;/a&gt; seems like the best option if you have space–some insulation inside the shed would help stop condensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KRtpi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike kept outside will rust given enough time, its gears, etc. will also not like being wet all the time.  Just as importantly, it is more likely to get stolen if it is just left outside, and I would always rather get on a dry bike than a wet/cold bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="18479" LastEditDate="2016-12-13T09:04:20.867" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T09:04:20.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2010-09-22T13:48:40.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are called stem bolts. I'm not sure what size those are, but all bmx stems use the same sized bolts and you can get a new set of 6 for under $10 at your local(online) bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T13:48:40.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-09-22T14:14:42.347" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically the cutoff point (I think) for a quality bike is in the $1000 - $1200 range. You're often looking at the same frame as on the $2000 model but with lower grade components. It's always seemed easier on my bank account to slowly upgrade components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm talking retail you may be able to find something in the $500 range on a site like Craigslist. In fact I did that this summer. I purchase a Trek 1.5 from last year for $650 (retail is about $1200 Canadian). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that $100 - $200 is much too low to purchase a bike of any type of reasonable quality unless it fell off a truck (stolen) or you happen to know someone that has a bike fetish and is willing to part with one to keep their significant other around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good question was asked specifically about purchasing from Craigslist that would probably inform you if you decide to go that route.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/743/what-should-i-look-for-when-buying-a-used-bicycle-on-craigslist&quot;&gt;What should I look for when buying a used bicycle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T14:14:42.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-09-22T14:55:15.303" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the summer I just bought an old Norco bike.  I have had tons of fun on it.  I watched Kijiji (similar to craigslist) every day for a month and eventually this bike came up.  It had never been ridden (there was not even a scratch on it) and the price was only $75 Canadian.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing my Norco to a friends $3000 Trek, here is what I found: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The difference in weight between the bikes was less dramatic that I expected.  The newer bike weighed maybe 70% of what the older bike weighted.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The newer bike had a much better shifting system.  The shifters where on the brake levers.  The older bike has shifters on the downtube.  To shift gears you need to remove your hand from the bars and reach down to the down tube.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUOUY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brake Lever Shifting&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6npdO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Down Tube Shifting&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hoods on the newer bike are more comfortable for longer rides.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The newer bike has significantly more gears.  This is a pro and a con.  The older bike has only 6 gears on the back and 2 on the front.  One advantage to this is that the gears can be substantial thicker.  I have heard that these gears will &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; wear out.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am not scared to ride the older Norco to school and lock it up while I am working.  I would never do that with the more expensive bike.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had a crash on the older Norco the second day I was riding it that resulted in the the front wheel being destroyed.  Replacing it cost me $30.  On the expensive bike god only knows what that crash would have cost.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The newer bike has some carbon in the frame.  In theory this should reduce the road vibration (and other things??).  The older bike is made entirely out of steel.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, if you want to race you will need the better bike.  If you want to have fun, be active and go fast I think that the older road bike is an excellent entry point.  Probably I will invest in a better road bike at some point but I will defiantly still keep this bike to make grocery runs and ride to school.  (Maybe I will convert it to a single speed).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T06:14:02.127" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T06:14:02.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1128" CreationDate="2010-09-22T16:43:44.823" Score="5" ViewCount="1955" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife convinced me that we should buy bikes (2x$100.00) @ a dept store. I found a Mongoose (which I can remember used to be decent) and within 6mos I broke the bracket that holds the shifter in place (not sure on my lingo here).  It says it is Shimano, but I don't know if I would be better off trying to replace it on my own(I am a smart DIY guy but have no experience w/Bikes), taking it to a bike shop, or just looking for a used Trek hybrid on CL?&#xA;Please advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="485" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T19:33:32.427" Title="Busted Dept store Mongoose Shifter - Scrap or Fix" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1127" CreationDate="2010-09-22T16:50:30.127" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is easy to get the bike to a bike shop, it is worth asking the shop the cost of a replacement.  It is not likely to be more than a few dollars.  Otherwise take the old bracket to the bike shop to get the replacement to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike shop is able to do the replacement on the spot, let them do it and watch how it is done, otherwise it is not hard to do yourself and will save you the time of having to collect the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This you will be left with a cheap bike that you can ride.   &lt;strong&gt;You may still wish to buy a better bike, but will have the time to find a good one.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T19:33:32.427" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T19:33:32.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="748" CreationDate="2010-09-22T17:27:27.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is an exact match, but it should get you pretty close:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=104&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tools: Coaster Brake Hub Overhaul&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T17:27:27.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-22T17:31:49.230" Score="9" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I are taking a trip to Japan in several months and that got me thinking, what should someone look for in a bike case when travelling? I won't be taking one on this trip (not in the shape I want to be in quite yet), but it could be beneficial information for others and myself in the future. The range of prices that bike cases span is pretty broad so knowing what to look for could potentially save you money and a broken bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a little bit of research myself, I noticed that some airlines will also supply you with boxes for travel. Are these safe or is it worth getting your own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycling in a foreign country (or a different city for that matter) seems like an amazing way to see parts of it that you normally wouldn't get a chance to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T16:17:23.113" Title="What to look for in bicycle travel cases" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2010-09-22T17:55:42.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike has a steel frame, make certain to be extra-vigilant about sealing any nicks or scratches in the paint. Steel will rust when exposed, given long enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T17:55:42.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1130" CreationDate="2010-09-22T19:40:00.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure it is sized to your bicycle.  The one time I flew a commercial airline with my bicycle I planned to use my father's travel case.  But with the wheels, cranks, seatpost and handle bar/stem totally removed my frame would not fit.  (A 64cm road frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it was for a one time, one way trip I got some shipping boxes from my local bike shop.  I got creative with the foam and packing tape.  Bike made the trip just fine :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastActivityDate="2010-09-22T19:40:00.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-22T20:00:34.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one thing l would recommend is puncture proof tyres, I use the Specialized Armadillo range.  Only twice in 3 years has anything managed to puncture my inner tubes.  I live and commute in a large city, lots of broken glass and other nice stuff and that's what's in the cycle lanes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't skimp on clothing it makes a different l have purchased some sealskinz clothing.  Seems pricey however its worth all the money and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remembering that I'm not training or in a race, taking it easy once in while :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastEditorUserId="438" LastEditDate="2010-09-23T11:03:50.283" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T11:03:50.283" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-22T20:00:34.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2010-09-22T20:18:14.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike has an aluminum frame, then the things to worry about are the steel parts: gears, chain, cables, and fasteners (bolts and such).  All of these things will readily rust if exposed to constant moisture from being outside.  Leaving the bike under an awning will help, but not protect it completely—a shed or other enclosure in the best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2010-09-23T03:50:35.190" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T03:50:35.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1152" CreationDate="2010-09-22T21:30:52.610" Score="8" ViewCount="2734" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you put anything under the clamp on the carbon to protect it? In the past I've tightened brakes on MTB handle bars to much and wrecked them so I'm wondering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2018-02-26T06:06:21.607" Title="Putting a front Derailleur on a carbon frame" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1139" CreationDate="2010-09-23T02:32:54.760" Score="25" ViewCount="122237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a two-and-a-half year old &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/road/4/28245/&quot;&gt;Giant FCR 3&lt;/a&gt; (with a road-bike-like frame and thin tires; it's somewhere in the loosely-defined &quot;hybrid&quot; range) that I use to commute to work, twenty-five miles round-trip, once or twice a week. The bike has straight handlebars, and having gotten used to the idea of commuting via bike, I'm interested in upgrading to drop handlebars. It looks like I'd need new break/shift levers to go with the handlebars; the whole upgrade looks like it'd run a couple hundred dollars. This is a sizable fraction of the original cost of the bike, which leads me to wonder if I'm better off saving my money for a new bike that's a little better adapted to my use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is upgrading my bike's handlebars a reasonable investment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="460" LastEditorUserId="460" LastEditDate="2010-09-24T01:37:12.637" LastActivityDate="2020-07-07T05:29:35.847" Title="Upgrading straight handlebars to drop handlebars" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1151" CreationDate="2010-09-23T02:52:02.737" Score="15" ViewCount="31963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I can drop $50-$100 for a torque wrench right now. What parts of a bike are the most critical to get the torque just right? Is there a way to make sure the torque is ok without a torque wrench? I know what would happen if you don't tighten enough. Too tight is probably better than not tight enough!&#xA;Is there a way to make minor adjustments based on some sort of observation or feel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T11:24:59.407" Title="If I don't use a torque wrench, how do I tighten to the approximate torque? What can go wrong?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2010-09-23T02:59:23.920" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lube and wax.  I know there are bike polishes that probably have wax, but I'd get the paste car wax that comes in a can.  Really clean the bike, then use the wax on your frame, seat post, fenders (especially inside where they take a beating from road grime while riding), exposed metal, but NOT your rim braking surfaces.  Put good lube on your chain.  One guy I know who does a lot of randonneur riding in bad weather (brace yourself, this is a bit extreme) strips his chain of grease and grime, then dips it in melted paraffin.  After it cools there are excess chunks of wax, but they drop off quickly.  The point is he gets wax inside the pin bushings, which keeps his chain fairly water-resistant.  Really lube your cables, or even better get teflon-coated cables.  Your might want to put a cover on your saddle and handlebars, just watch out for condensation forming inside the covers which would defeat the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T02:59:23.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1136" CreationDate="2010-09-23T04:15:12.930" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did this on my previous bike, and while it was a lot of fun (and I enjoyed riding the resulting bike) it was also quite expensive, almost half the cost of the bike.  You should also be prepared to put in a fair amount of research to determine if all the parts will work together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what's involved:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New bars (of course)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New stem -- unless you can find drop bars you like that match your flat bars' diameter.  Most road bikes now use &quot;oversized&quot; bars, which requires a stem with a larger clamp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New shifters.  I went with &quot;brifters&quot; (integrated shifters + brake levers) but these can be quite pricy.  Bar end shifters (on my current bike) can be considerably cheaper and should fit most bars.  Down tube shifters also cost less but your bike probably doesn't have the mounting points.  Of course, if you're very clever you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be able to keep your current shifters if you find a smaller diameter bar and mount the shifters on the flats.  Road and MTB shifters are interchangeable (within the same manufacturer and # of speeds) so compatibility is not a problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New brake levers, if not using brifters.  But road bike brakes use a different amount of cable pull versus MTB brakes, which means...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New brakes!  This is where it can get fairly tricky (and where I almost gave up) as you'll need to find something that will fit your wheel &amp;amp; brake mount combination.  I went with cantilever brakes but this had the added problem of needing cable hangers in the front and rear.  Another option is to choose drop bar brake levers which are designed for MTB brakes (they do exist), but this rules out using brifters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New brake cables and housings.  Your existing cables will likely be too short for drop bars so you'll need to replace all four cables plus the sections of cable housing that reach the bars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're trying to keep the costs and headaches down, look for bar end shifters and brake levers designed for MTB brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it?  If you really want drop bars, enjoy working on your bike and it costs less than buying a new one, then yes.  But make sure you plan &amp;amp; price it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T04:15:12.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-09-23T04:26:57.637" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most critical thing is that it fits you well.  You don't need to spend a lot of money -- in fact, I'd recommend against it for your first road bike.  But a basic bike that fits you well will feel fun and will get used.  And as you gain more experience with it, you'll know what to change/upgrade if you feel the need to buy a more expensive bike down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T04:26:57.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-09-23T08:25:02.637" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things to consider are that when you buy a new bike it is a mix of different components, which are then packaged together and you receive a discount on the sum of the parts. This means that different manufacturers attempt to save money by using cheaper items for certain pieces of the overall puzzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major headline items are the frame, gear system, brakes and wheels - everything else is (relatively) cheaper. So consider the things that are easy to change when you feel like upgrading. It's trivial to change the wheels, it's harder to change the brakes, harder still the gears and a new frame means a total rebuild. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's the priority when considering a bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the frame fits well - ideally it will be perfect, but different uses require different frame sizes/geometries (time trials, road racing, training, commuting, leisure rides) so perfection means different bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the gearings and brakes - you don't want to get into a huge Shimano vs. Campag Vs SRAM debate, though - frankly they're all much of a muchness unless you know a lot more than I do &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels are supremely important, but also easier to change. Deeper rims are faster, having fewer spokes is generally faster, lighter is better. And you can spend as much on a pair of wheels as a second hand car. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything else is a bonus and easier still to change (saddles, handle bars, cranks, etc.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At each stage spend as much money as you feel you can, you will always be able to spend more. But ultimately for a new machine it isn't worth building your own, you will get a better deal buying it whole and complete, but you should purchase with half an eye on what bits they've skimped on and which you can upgrade down the line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T08:25:02.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1137" CreationDate="2010-09-23T08:26:29.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Too tight&lt;/strong&gt; and something &lt;strong&gt;will break&lt;/strong&gt;, it may be the thread on the bolt, or much worse the thread on in the hole.  Bolts will also break, sometimes leaving a very hard to remove bit in your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not tightenough and it will work loose, and then you know to do it a bit tighter next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You don’t need to be spot on with torque, just not a &lt;strong&gt;long way&lt;/strong&gt; over or under)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However wheels and brakes are not hard to do without a torque wrench, so a lot comes down to what maintenance you will be doing and how much your bike is worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2010-09-23T15:51:35.933" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T15:51:35.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="164" CreationDate="2010-09-23T10:16:16.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following in my bag (bike related):&#xA;- pump&#xA;- tire repair set&#xA;- spare batteries&#xA;- spare inner tire&#xA;- screwdriver and wrenches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At home I have a complete set for almost anything (I'm a tool addict, and we now have a workshed with space for anything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T10:16:16.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-23T10:25:31.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm lucky to live in a country where the bike is an accepted means of transportation. Lots of bike lanes, and bike friendly traffic lights (some places). But that's countered with a lot of rain and wind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start biking, don't overestimate yourself. When your condition improves, speed increases accordingly. And listen to your body (if your heart appears to be jumping out of your ribcage, you probably went too fast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be prepared for bad weather. If necessary invest in a good rainsuit because you will get wet. And not all offices have showers. Besides, driving while wet has risks of cooling down, which is often underestimated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a positive note, biking is fun. It improves your health. You see a lot more of the surroundings. And you can play little games/challenges with yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T00:34:52.133" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T00:34:52.133" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-23T10:25:31.090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="164" CreationDate="2010-09-23T10:31:23.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cheap box of latex gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing worse than having to do one small job, and then having to spend longer cleaning your hands than you did doing the job in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T10:31:23.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="384" CreationDate="2010-09-23T10:40:16.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is just another thing to mention. You can't use all combinations else there is too much strain on the system. With my 3x8 I just ignore the extremes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front 1: Back 1-6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front 2: Back 2-7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front 3: Back 3-8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You loose some combinations, but they are not very useful anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I once had an accident. While driving, the bike suddenly stopped with a metallic klunc. The rear derailleur was caught between the spokes. Ruining about everything. The bike just had its maintenance (replacement of chain and cassette) so it was probably a mistake of the bicycle repairshop. And they agreed). Athough they said that it was because of the extreme settings (Front 3, Back 1). But that was a result of the accident. So they fixed it for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T10:40:16.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1148" CreationDate="2010-09-23T11:15:42.583" Score="51" ViewCount="48934" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long should a road tyre be able to maintain a pressure of around 100psi, and what factors are likely to reduce this time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tyre pressures are consistently dropping to around 60psi after about a week (three commutes, total ~50 miles), which makes the bike feel sluggish and less responsive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only recently got a road bike, but I've always had mountain bikes - they've always held around 30 psi for weeks and weeks with no problems. I'm wondering if it's the higher pressure that's causing my tyres to need inflating more frequently, or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/89/periodic-maintenance-task-for-bike-commuters/105#105&quot;&gt;This answer to another question&lt;/a&gt;, and some other answers I've seen suggest that you should check your tyre pressure &lt;em&gt;every day&lt;/em&gt;, but is this to be cautious or are you likely to actually have to inflate your tyres every day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T08:56:41.387" Title="How long should a road tyre hold its pressure?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2010-09-23T11:24:22.493" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do yourself a huge favor, inflate them daily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As they are high pressure and low volume they tend to lose air quicker than that of a tube that is low pressure and high volume (MTB). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With daily inflation checks you will vastly reduce the instances of pinch flats, which IMO are typically the result of too low pressure. Butyl tubes, the typical tube, retain their pressure better than their Latex counterpart but still ... check regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This touches on why your tyres leak down (solubility etc):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/731/is-there-a-difference-in-having-tires-filled-with-co-vs-air&quot;&gt;Is there a difference in having tires filled with CO₂ vs air?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T03:27:49.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2010-09-23T11:56:32.080" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inflating daily might be a bit more work than necessary.  Inflate them before every ride. From my experience with 700x25c tires at 115 PSI, I find they lose about 5 PSI after 24 hours, just due to the natural properties of the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a few times a week, and it's part of my standard pre-ride checklist to give each tire about 3-4 strokes on the floor pump, or whatever it takes to get them back up to 115.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T16:37:17.137" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T16:37:17.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-23T12:01:56.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume that every vehicle that passes you is also pulling a trailer, so that you won't be surprised when it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be aware (at least in my area) that city busses have their engines in the back, so they 'sound' further away than they really are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists use their ears like rear view mirrors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better yet, get a rear-view mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T12:01:56.560" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-23T12:01:56.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1137" CreationDate="2010-09-23T12:48:38.443" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't approximate torque by feel. Loctite, grease, carbon compounds can all alter the 'feel' when you are tightening down bolts and if there was anyway to 'approximate the feel' these variables render it fairly impossible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use ti/aluminum bolts, carbon components, high end aluminum do not cheap out, get the torque wrench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tend towards stainless/steel bolts and less expensive components, you can forgo the torque wrench and just ensure you are working to even torque. For example, if it is a faceplate make sure that the gap between faceplate and stem is even all the way around.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saying 'too tight is better than not enough' is not true. Too tight can create stress risers in a component (specifically I am thinking handlebar) that can lead to catastrophic failure down the road. Too tight on a square taper crankset (specifically the fixing bolt) can cause deformation of the taper fit and eventual loosening of the crank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noticed I didn't answer the question fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faceplate/Bar interface&#xA;Stem/Steer interface&#xA;Crankset (whether pinchbolt or square taper style BB)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are areas where I would ensure proper torque. Seatpost is dependent on style of bike (ie. Madone seatMAST, or carbon post/carbon frame) as to whether torque is super important. Rotor bolts, brake mounting bolts etc... but with increasing importance as exotic materials increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="245" LastEditDate="2010-09-23T13:03:34.957" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T13:03:34.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1135" CreationDate="2010-09-23T12:51:17.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon compound can definitely help. As the following link points out, it helps you avoid 'over torquing' to ensure that the component doesn't slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/fiber_grip.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/fiber_grip.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my personal domain, if there is carbon and carbon, or carbon and some other material, thou must use fiber grip. And a torque wrench. No questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T12:51:17.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2010-09-23T13:12:26.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is that road bikes get inflated before the first ride of each day.  With lower pressure mountain bike tires I find that the pressure is acceptable if I've inflated them within the last 7 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T13:12:26.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1136" CreationDate="2010-09-23T13:37:06.823" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to figure out if this would work on my bike a few weeks ago.  I decided against it.  I think this is a pretty good description of some of the problems you may encounter: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you compare top tube lengths,&#xA;  mountain bikes are longer at every&#xA;  size than road bikes. The reason for&#xA;  that is that drop bars put the brake&#xA;  hoods, which are the principal hand&#xA;  position for most road riders, a lot&#xA;  further forward of the steer tube than&#xA;  the grips on a mountain bike.&#xA;  Obviously it can be done, and&#xA;  depending on how your built and how&#xA;  the bike is sized you may even prefer&#xA;  it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you like the fit of the bike now&#xA;  and you're not using a super-long&#xA;  stem, you'll probably be pretty&#xA;  unhappy with a drop bar conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=6740378&amp;amp;postcount=14&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the better solution is to add some bar ends to your bike to give your self some more hand positions.  Here is the solution that I came up with while researching although I have not implemented it yet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I would add some bar ends regular bar ends on the end of your handle bars.  Bar ends are very similar to to the hoods on a mountain bike.  It is more comfortable for your wrists to be in an up and down position (although you will have less turning power).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f0p0M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BarEnds&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I would buy these &quot;drop bar ends&quot;.  It took me weeks to find somewhere that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=15300&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;sold them&lt;/a&gt;.  I have not bought them yet but they look sweet.  The key when installing them is to install them inside your your breaks and shifters.  This will give you a narrow profile similar to what you would experience on a road bike.  (If there is space you can also mount your bar ends inside too).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0X9YW.png&quot; alt=&quot;drop bar ends&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem left.  You usually use the drops when you are descending and trying to be as aerodynamic as possible therefore you will be going fast.  You will need a break on the drops to stay safe.  Probably you don't want to move your brakes to the drops since you will probably be using the flats for more technical riding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need Auxiliary (&quot;Cross&quot;, &quot;Interrupter&quot;) Levers. To quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-levers-drop.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brow&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Initially marketed primarily for&#xA;  cyclocross, these are also an&#xA;  excellent choice for the touring or&#xA;  long distance cyclist, permitting you&#xA;  to brake from the top part of the&#xA;  handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unlike the 1970s extension levers,&#xA;  these don't interfere with the main&#xA;  brake levers. They install in the&#xA;  middle of the cable run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the best course of action is to mount one of these onto each drop bar.  That way you will still be able to control breaking while on the drops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYQGJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is not how you would be using the brake however this is the only picture I could find of it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what your handle bars look like right now: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;grip breakLever shifter bar bar bar bar bar StemAttachment bar bar bar bar bar breakLever grip&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what they will look like after you have added the bar ends and drop bar ends: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;barEnds grip breakLever shifter drops bar bar bar bar bar StemAttachment bar bar bar bar bar drops breakLever grip barEnds&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T13:37:06.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1137" CreationDate="2010-09-23T13:45:55.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my area, &lt;a href=&quot;http://communitycycles.org/&quot;&gt;Community Cycles&lt;/a&gt; is a non-profit organization promoting bike riding. For a &lt;a href=&quot;http://communitycycles.org/get-involved/cc-membership.html&quot;&gt;modest membership fee&lt;/a&gt; (less than the price of a torque wrench) one gets access to their bike shop's tools. Their site includes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://communitycycles.org/links/bike-collectives.html&quot;&gt;list of other bike collectives in North America&lt;/a&gt;, which might be a good alternative to buying your own tools each time you need a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="460" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T13:45:55.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-23T15:15:19.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leave Your Car At Work -- You Don't have to Commute Both Ways Each Day&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drive in with your bike, then commute home leaving your car at work you can get away with only commuting one way per day.  You also have your car at work if an emergency comes up, or in case of extreme inclement weather.  It's amazing how many people don't think that this is an option, and it makes a lot of sense for people with small children and people just getting started commuting by bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T15:15:19.137" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-23T15:15:19.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1159" CreationDate="2010-09-23T15:18:03.953" Score="24" ViewCount="23256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see the use of the valve cap on a Presta valve when the tube is still packaged (it obviously stops the valve puncturing the tube), but does it do anything except look pretty (or not) once you've fitted the tube to a rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've kept them on out of habit, because I've had problems with sticking Schrader valves in the past when I've lost the caps and dirt/grime has got in there - but the design of Presta valves suggests to me that they wouldn't suffer this fate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that I really need to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1147/491&quot;&gt;inflate tyres on a road bike every day&lt;/a&gt;, is replacing this cap something I can leave out of my daily chores?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T12:20:25.587" Title="Does the plastic cap on a Presta valve serve any purpose once fitted to a rim?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;presta&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1136" CreationDate="2010-09-23T15:22:17.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting drops on a flat bar bike can require new shifters, brake levers, cables, fitting  stem, and seems like an awful lot of trouble. Flat bars have advantages of their own, namely increased control of the bike, and have a completely different feel. If getting a second bike is an option, I'd seriously consider that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barends on your flat bar bike will help give you additional hand positions without trying to turn the bike into something it's not. And everyone needs another bike, yes? (This is how the n+1 problem gets kick-started.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T15:22:17.007" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1157" CreationDate="2010-09-23T15:25:54.007" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cap keeps dirt and rocks away from the valve, particularly the fragile release mechanism. It's not the end of the world if the caps are missing, but I suggest leaving them on. They don't take &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; long to remove and replace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-12-06T21:00:16.727" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T21:00:16.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-23T15:35:16.567" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pack light.&lt;/strong&gt; Leave whatever you can at work, and only pack tools that are appropriate to the distance that you are travelling. Cycling is much easier with less weight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For example - on my previous commute the distance was short enough that if I got a puncture in the middle of the ride, it would be quicker to walk the rest of the way than repair it at the side of the road. I decided to leave a replacement tube, tyre levers and a pump at either end of my commute, instead of carrying them with me.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T15:35:16.567" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-23T15:35:16.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2010-09-23T16:25:22.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With 700x28 tires @ 110psi, I only inflate them about once every two weeks (if I remember), or right before a major ride.  I always give the tires a quick squeeze before every ride just to make sure neither has developed a slow leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Daily inflation, or before every ride seems like overkill to me.  When you connect a pump or gauge to measure your tire pressure, you're probably losing up to 5psi just from air used to fill the pump/gauge (plus any leakage while getting them lined up right).  This gets worse the smaller your tires are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T16:25:22.853" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1157" CreationDate="2010-09-23T16:38:12.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my MTB I leave them on to keep mud from crudding up the works. On road and commuter bikes they are useless and I toss them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T16:38:12.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-23T18:18:14.333" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repair stand&lt;/strong&gt; - It makes maintenance and adjustments on your bike much easier by holding the bike off the ground, at a height convenient for work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hdyVZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-24T04:29:51.673" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T04:29:51.673" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-23T18:18:14.333" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1157" CreationDate="2010-09-23T19:18:26.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't use them is if someone is into racing and we are looking at changing a flat being important down to the second. In that case it is just another impediment to speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise it keeps the system (whether presta, schrader or dunlop) clean and easy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T19:18:26.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-09-23T20:09:56.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I feel I will faint when I am cycling in the morning. I usually don't have this problem after lunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My breakfast is rich in carbohydrates, but maybe I'm eating too much or missing some nutrients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you have an answer contained within your question. You feel faint at times in the morning, but rarely after lunch. So what you do is to compare those pre-ride meals to see what's different about them in terms of the carb:fat:protein ratio. Then you make a point of going with the ratio that yields the best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on the breakfasts rich in carbs... Take a look at those carbs. If they're simple, highly refined carbs, your body will metabolize them much faster than if they're complex carbs. So see if you notice a difference between something like commercial boxed cereal vs whole oats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T20:09:56.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="468" CreationDate="2010-09-23T21:54:23.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the requisite skills you could make one of these (or get someone to make it for you):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UkTdo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of details on his site &lt;a href=&quot;http://ruzter.wordpress.com/2010/08/24/the-bike-du-solei-cargo-bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rutzer Tales&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-09-23T21:54:23.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-09-23T23:04:26.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heart rate monitor&lt;/strong&gt; -  I know someone has already mentioned computer, but I'm a bit more specific.  The only feedback I use is that heartrate number.  With practice, it quickly tells me if I'm in the wrong gear or how long I can maintain a certain effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole computer thing is nice, but I really like having that single big number for feedback and not filling my head with power, distance and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, what does it mean when your heart rate doesn't decrease on the downhill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-24T04:29:13.157" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T04:29:13.157" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-23T23:04:26.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="468" CreationDate="2010-09-24T07:58:47.863" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recommendations for transporting twins on a bike? A trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a father myself - my son is nearly 9 months old, and I cycle a lot. In the area that I live, I wouldn't feel safe having him on the road with me &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were offroad, or on more quiet roads, I would definitely prefer to have him in a trailer; they're more stable for you and your child (they can't wobble you, don't change your centre of gravity, and won't fall over when you do). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotal evidence that I've read suggests that drivers are actually more likely to give you a wide berth with a trailer, simply because you look unusual and they notice you (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/835/491&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; has some links to an interesting study on factors affecting the gap given to cyclists, which touches on a similar thing). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.londonskaters.com/cycling/article-child-trailer-safety.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; makes a very good case for the trailer vs a child seat in a collision with a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from anything else, kids &lt;strong&gt;love&lt;/strong&gt; to ride in trailers. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know your question states that you don't like the idea of a trailer, but if they were my twins I'd want them in a trailer - so I can't offer any other answer than that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T07:58:47.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-24T08:53:09.003" Score="7" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like all new road and triathlon bicycles are being made with 28&quot; wheels and I've found it almost impossible to get 26&quot; wheels for and older tri bike. Are they still being manufactured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Andres Osinski" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-09-24T14:59:30.367" LastActivityDate="2010-09-25T08:04:30.813" Title="Are 26&quot; racing wheels still being produced?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="468" CreationDate="2010-09-24T09:40:33.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Danish solutions can be found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.christianiabikes.com/english/uk_main.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.christianiabikes.com/english/uk_main.htm&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://nihola.info/en/nihola+bikes/cigar+family/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://nihola.info/en/nihola+bikes/cigar+family/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="69" LastEditDate="2010-10-07T07:30:04.143" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T07:30:04.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1181" CreationDate="2010-09-24T10:39:23.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick answer is yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zipp.com/wheels/404-650c-tubular&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.zipp.com/wheels/404-650c-tubular&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corima.com/boutique/default.cfm?basketAction=add&amp;amp;reference=161102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.corima.com/boutique/default.cfm?basketAction=add&amp;amp;reference=161102&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; - if that link doesn't work it is for 650c Corima Wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T10:39:23.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="680" CreationDate="2010-09-24T10:52:32.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wtb.com/pdf/manuals/ServiceLDLiteV6.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wtb.com/pdf/manuals/ServiceLDLiteV6.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This service .pdf indicates that you need 15x26x7 bearings. I did a quick search on Enduros website and they don't appear to make this size in ceramic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick web search came up with one option that I could (quickly) find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7872&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7872&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, in my experience, the bearing manufacturers are not going to say that they have a kit for a WTB LaserDisc Lite hub. They simply make bearings of a given size and if they are what you need, great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the .pdf doesn't specify is what size the freehub body bearings are. It gives a part number for replacement as a UNIT but does not break it down into its finer parts. Read further along in the .pdf and they do indicate that you can replace the bearings from the freehub quite easily. My recommendation is taking them out, measuring them w/ a vernier caliper and then doing a quick search to see if you can acquire a ceramic version. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T10:52:32.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-24T16:03:30.437" Score="2" ViewCount="1113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to buy a Bianchi Pista Concept 2005...2009 like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velospace.org/node/24912&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://velospace.org/node/24912&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I find this bike in London, UK? And what should I check before buy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, How much should I expect to pay for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="505" LastEditorUserId="505" LastEditDate="2010-09-24T16:52:41.170" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T16:52:41.170" Title="Where can I buy a Bianchi Pista Concept?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1188" CreationDate="2010-09-24T16:46:22.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is only a partial answer, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bianchi.com/global/dealerlocator/dealerlocator_list.aspx?SearchCountry=United%20Kingdom&amp;amp;SearchZone=London&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Bianchi dealer locater shows several dealers in London&lt;/a&gt;. I'd call around and find out what the ballpark is in terms of cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T16:46:22.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-24T18:33:47.683" Score="43" ViewCount="152239" Body="&lt;p&gt;What different kinds of bike handle bars are there?  All kinds welcome, the common and the nameless.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If possible include the pros and cons of the bar&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;One bar per post&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-03T05:05:17.820" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T18:55:59.110" Title="Different kinds of Handlebars" Tags="&lt;reference&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;glossary&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="11" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-25T04:13:03.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2010-09-24T18:35:58.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Unnamed Bars(?)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1195/different-kinds-of-handlebars/1205#1205&quot;&gt;bull horn&lt;/a&gt; setup with an add on so that the rider can ride in a more upright position when on the flats.  This seems like a good setup when speed is desired some times but the rider also wants to be able to smell the flowers.  &lt;em&gt;You can brake from the top by pulling on the rod&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v8FlT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesnobnyc.blogspot.com/2010/09/pull-my-strings-new-puppetry.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bike snob NYC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-09-26T03:37:49.723" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-25T04:13:03.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-24T23:30:11.233" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maintain awareness of your surroundings when riding in marked bike lanes.&lt;/strong&gt; Two friends, and I know of others, have had collisions with cars while in clearly marked bike lanes. Apparently, some cyclists assume they are safe just because they are in a marked lane and thus drop their attentiveness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-24T23:40:34.563" LastActivityDate="2010-09-24T23:40:34.563" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-24T23:30:11.233" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-25T03:40:23.833" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;you might be surprised how incredibly rude people can be. I'm actually a second generation commuter &amp;amp; have been riding to work my entire adult life, and still am floored regarding how little consideration for your life those in cars take. And &lt;b&gt;commuting puts you in the line of fire for the worst driving behavior--drivers are cranky on their way to work and even worse on the way home&lt;/b&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my advice would be: prepare to see some unseemly behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(p.s. I live in a really friendly bike town too (Portland, Oregon))--compared to a lot of places this is bike-paradise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="507" LastEditorUserId="563" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T18:46:29.250" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T18:46:29.250" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-25T03:40:23.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2010-09-25T07:57:25.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;the figures you'd quoted seem to be normal, i check and pump mine at least once every 3 days when i used to ride regularly.  unlike car tyres the bike tubes have much lower material density but the pressure held inside is 3x higher than your typical city car tyres ... if you are really paranoid, get some commuter grade tubes which have thicker walls hopefully they hold the air longer, another possibility is that you have a crooked valve, in that case you need to replace the tube too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="red" LastEditorDisplayName="red" LastEditDate="2010-09-25T08:32:17.357" LastActivityDate="2010-09-25T08:32:17.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1181" CreationDate="2010-09-25T08:04:30.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can ask you local shop to build one for you, they are not worse than wheelset ones if your mix of parts were right and the shop knows what they are doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="red" LastActivityDate="2010-09-25T08:04:30.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2010-09-25T08:17:00.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;before you do anything, you should check the components documentation on shimano's web site, all the instructions are there - the hoods are quite widely available on order from bike shops although they don't seem to justify the $$ tag.  if it's only sticky, just clean it with a damp cloth or with 1 drop of dish washing liquid if it hasn't been properly cleaned before.  i use mine for over 5yrs+ its very scratched now but still don't need to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="red" LastActivityDate="2010-09-25T08:17:00.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2010-09-25T13:07:22.460" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bullhorn Handlebars&lt;/strong&gt; (Sheldon Brown calls the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_cn-z.html#cowhorn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cowhorn bars&lt;/a&gt;, although I've never heard that term elsewhere. AKA &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepro.com/products/handlebars/scott_combo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;combination bars&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hdzrw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bullhorn handlebars&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These can sometimes be found at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikedump.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;local bike dump&lt;/a&gt; cheaply. Some find them quite comfortable, and they allow a lot of different positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/avIx7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/avIx7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepro.com/products/handlebars/hndlbars_jpg/d1d_scott_at2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bikepro.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although purpose-made handlebars are generally better, it's possible to make a set of bullhorns by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridefixedgear.com/howto/convert-drop-handlebars-bullhorns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cutting drop handlebars and flipping them over&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-02-16T12:51:19.587" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T12:51:19.587" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-25T13:07:22.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2010-09-25T17:11:12.597" Score="17" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Flat bars&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest kind of handlebar, these are a straight bar with grips on the end. Flat bars were traditionally only used by cross-country riders but now you see them in more general application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DgC4W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat bars (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/owen-pics/4751132514/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image credit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XkiIY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat bars offer more space to mount lights and computers than drop bars. These bars have  bar ends attached for additional hand positions. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2095539899/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image credit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T23:20:44.240" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-25T17:11:12.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2010-09-25T17:11:44.107" Score="14" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Cruiser bars&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allow the rider to sit upright on a bike while holding the bars. Also known as upright or North Road handlebars, these are common on cruiser bikes and some comfort bikes. They sweep back towards the rider, with grips that point more towards the back than to the sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wXzO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cruiser bars&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cruiser bike with handlebars (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/braintoad/3036433604/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Photo credit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-09-25T22:07:46.313" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-25T17:11:44.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2010-09-25T17:12:37.040" Score="17" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Drop bars&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually seen on road bikes. Designed to give the rider multiple hand positions, as well as the ability to &amp;quot;tuck&amp;quot; forward, decreasing wind drag. These can be fitted with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/260#260&quot;&gt;aerobars&lt;/a&gt; for additional aerodynamic advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop bars are generally narrower than flat bars, and don't offer quite as much detailed control over the bike on uneven surfaces. Drops are often the bars of choice for longer bike rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/667im.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drop bars&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop bars on a touring bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2504364860/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;image credit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see entry &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1195/different-kinds-of-handlebars/1213#1213&quot;&gt;Variations on Drop Bars&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T16:37:09.093" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-25T17:12:37.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2010-09-25T22:00:36.383" Score="13" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Tri-bars&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q5gZx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triathlon_bars#Triathlon_or_aero&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;aerobars&lt;/a&gt;) originating from triathlon, but now seen in almost any time trial situation where the racer is alone and not able to ride in a group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pros of the design are to promote a static, streamlined position, where the rider cannot easily move but will remain in a aerodynamically advantageous position, thus resulting in a faster ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cons are that this design is often uncomfortable for extended periods. When used on a bike that is then ridden in a group, it can be dangerous, as coming off the bars to use the brakes takes time, and some designs present what is effectively a couple of spikes to the front, which could make a collision with a softer target a worse outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tri-bars can be 'standalone' bars or installed as an add-on to normal bars. Gear shifters can also be added to allow riders to remain in position while changing gear. Triathletes will often use the space between the hands to place a bottle with a straw to allow for hydration with minimum movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-09-26T12:27:14.117" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-25T22:00:36.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1231" CreationDate="2010-09-26T12:50:40.407" Score="47" ViewCount="91544" Body="&lt;p&gt;In cycle racing, there are five grades or categories for climbs - Category 4, 3, 2, 1 &amp;amp; Hors (Above Category or HC).  How do they decide what is category 1 and what makes it so hard it is a HC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T11:45:16.343" Title="How are the categories for climbs decided?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2010-09-26T14:57:24.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tour organizers rank them subjectively based on their steepness, length, and also where they occur in the stage (climbs near the finish garner a higher ranking). Another criterion which seldom makes a big difference is road condition. Some people feel that the ratings have been inconsistent over the years, or have been inflated in recent years.  In short, there is no scientific way of rating the climbs, it's just a judgement call from the race organizers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.podiumcafe.com/2010/6/29/1543466/tour-de-france-lets-rank-the-climbs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;others&lt;/a&gt; have indeed tried to quantitatively rank the climbs. You could apply their methodology to climbs near where you live to figure out how a local climb might be ranked at the end of a tour stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastActivityDate="2010-09-26T14:57:24.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2010-09-26T17:14:19.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another important criteria is where the climb is placed. If you put an otherwise cat 1 climb at the end of a mountain stage with an uphill finish, it becomes an HC climb.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastActivityDate="2010-09-26T17:14:19.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2010-09-26T17:26:17.913" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Variations in Drop Bars&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important distinction in a drop bar is the shape of the drop. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1086806_-1_400022_400002_400213&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ergo bars&lt;/a&gt; that look like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t88fu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1074915_-1_1542500_20000_400213&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;conventional curved bars&lt;/a&gt; that look like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IKL6r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the links are just representative of the style, not the actual cost. There should be negligible price difference between the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, the ergo bar pushes the palm of my hand away from the levers. This makes it much more difficult to reach the levers (mostly for shifting, although it is at the limit of comfort for braking as well). You could fix this problem one of two ways: buying a set of levers which have an adjustable reach option, or swapping out the handlebars. I'm doing the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the &lt;em&gt;randonneur&lt;/em&gt; bar, a drop bar where the middle bar arcs upward slightly at each end, the drops angle outward, and the drop is less severe than the standard design.  Designed to be more comfortable for long rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tE91I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-04-05T22:43:52.963" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T22:43:52.963" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-26T17:26:17.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1220" CreationDate="2010-09-26T17:33:27.763" Score="39" ViewCount="100778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping online for some new tires, and see that some models are sorted by folding and wire beads?  What exactly does this mean, and do I need a special rim to support them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T08:14:13.567" Title="What is the difference between folding bead and wire bead tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1223" CreationDate="2010-09-26T17:45:33.943" Score="6" ViewCount="1299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting a repair stand, used if I can find one. Aside from the obvious (Park Tool stands), which ones are well-made? I'd like to try and snag a good one on an eBay auction if I can for very little money, but I don't want to waste my time with a piece of junk that will fall apart on me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-06-05T16:25:48.757" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T22:42:24.047" Title="What brands of repair stands are sturdy?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;repair-stand&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-26T20:47:41.737" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be as visible as possible, and assume you are invisible.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter how much neon spandex and blinky lights you have, some drivers won't notice you until it's too late, especially if it is rainy, getting dark, and their radio is on.  ASSUME you are invisible and they are all out to hit you, and ride accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-26T20:47:41.737" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-26T20:47:41.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-09-26T20:52:08.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a good LBS (Local Bike Shop) that deals in road bikes and has a used bike section.  They might not have something for you right now, but if you talk to them, tell them what you are looking for, try some new bikes to get a really good handle on the size you are needing, they may just give you a call when the right trade-in appears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-09-26T20:52:08.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-26T21:00:26.247" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may find it easier on your commute, depending on the length of the ride and how much stuff you have to carry with you, to invest in racks and panniers rather than a backpack or messenger bag. My finding has been that weight &quot;on the bike&quot; is much less noticeable than weight attached to your body. If you commute with a full change of clothes, pair of shoes, kryptonite U-lock, laptop, and shower gear you'll find that your bag will become quite heavy. Might make your ride less cumbersome with that stuff in a luggage bag instead of across your shoulders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-09-26T21:00:26.247" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-26T21:00:26.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1214" CreationDate="2010-09-26T23:56:31.837" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Folding versus wire refers to the material within the bead or 'edge' of each side of the tire. Foldable bead tires use kevlar in most cases (I think) and tires with each type are entirely compatible with the rim size that the tire is designed for (in the absence of a manufacturing defect). Folding bead tires have a few advantages (in my opinion):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhat lighter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to store (can be refolded by flattening the tire and folding it into a bundle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bead has more stretch to it, so mounting the tire is &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; less difficult&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these advantages, you will probably pay more for a foldable bead tire when a tire model includes both options. Also, wire bead's also appear more often as the OEM tires on lower end bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-09-26T23:56:31.837" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1262" CreationDate="2010-09-27T00:52:57.480" Score="18" ViewCount="34189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build a bike rack to store several bikes on the floor of my garage. Does anyone have plans for such a rack? We have a circular saw and a drill and the usual hand tools, but no router, so nothing too fancy, please! Something that can be made inexpensively from 2x4's and 1x3's would be ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Hanging bikes on the walls isn't an option for me, I'm looking for floor rack designs only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit2: After Gary.Ray's answer below, I came up with this: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Kxy8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T22:26:46.197" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T02:52:43.423" Title="DIY wooden bike rack -- looking for plans" Tags="&lt;diy&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2010-09-27T05:07:27.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend has a Topeak stand. I forget the model but it has &quot;Pro&quot; in the name. My friend likes it and it seems sturdy and functional to me. I've had a Park stand for years and as far as I can tell I won't be replacing it any time soon, if ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-27T05:37:07.643" LastActivityDate="2010-09-27T05:37:07.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2010-09-27T09:57:29.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Velomann V2500.  They are made in Italy.  The stand is great overall.  Very stable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only complaint is that the clamp is a little bit fussy.  Getting the bike into the stand is a bit of a pain.  (Once it is in no problems though).  If you where working on 20 bikes/day this would cost you endless annoyance however if it is just for your personal use I would defiantly say get it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that a Parks Tools Stand would definatly be better quality &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; I only paid $109 (Canadian) for this stand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Canada you can buy it from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Main/content_text.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302887359&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MEC&lt;/a&gt; (they will ship internationally but it is probably cheaper to order it from somewhere else).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x5jDr.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-09-27T09:57:29.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1221" CreationDate="2010-09-27T11:09:29.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick search for &quot;Bike Storage&quot; on Instructables gives me somewhere in the region of a 100 results (not all of them are relevant obviously) which are listed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/pages/search/search.jsp?cx=partner-pub-1783560022203827%3Anpr2q7v5m6t&amp;amp;cof=FORID%3A11&amp;amp;ie=ISO-8859-1&amp;amp;q=bike+storage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. You may get further with a different search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Bike-Tree/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bike Tree&lt;/a&gt; might be what you're looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDvsA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2010-09-27T11:21:10.323" LastActivityDate="2010-09-27T11:21:10.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1221" CreationDate="2010-09-27T15:33:38.403" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind punching some holes into the wall, the style my roomy and I have in our living room is very space efficient, and quite cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k4Z98.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is basically a 2x4 screwed to the wall, with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5/R-202305571/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10051&amp;amp;catalogId=10053&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hooks&lt;/a&gt; placed into it at a 45 degree angle.  Because we both ride year-round, we put plastic don to save the walls, but being in the garage this may not be necessary.  The plastic does make a good white-board, however (garage decorations!).  Basically the wheel at the top is in contact with both the hook and the wall, and the bottom wheel is touching the wall.  Alternating hanging the bikes by the front and rear wheel means you can put the hooks closer together, and put more in the same space.  It is a very strong design, with ~8 drywall screws holding it to the wall.  Strong enough to hold a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/big_dummy_complete/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Big Dummy&lt;/a&gt; (though the rear end of the Big Dummy does sit on the carpet), a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pugsley_complete/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pugsley&lt;/a&gt;, and 3 other bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of hooks may vary.  For example, I have a large one for my &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pugsley_complete/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pugsley&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rke0h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic we used is also very cheap.  I think it was ~15$ for 100 feet of the stuff.  We plan to replace the plastic once it gets dirty, and I estimate the sheet we have will last 4-5 years.  We also used patches of duck-tape where the tires hit the plastic in order to prevent the tires from wearing through too quickly (especially important for the bikes with studded tires).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most expensive part of the build was the hooks, the most expensive of which were ~15$ (going from memory).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-09-30T06:13:14.147" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T06:13:14.147" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2010-09-27T21:20:08.653" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has been mentioned, the actual categories are fairly subjective. Things such as the fame of a climb as well as how the organizers feel about giving out King of the Mountain points on a given stage will affect rankings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are some general rules of thumb if you want to get an idea of how your local climb rates up to a given ranked climb in the tour though. There are always exceptions to climb rankings, but this should give you a basic list to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Category 4&#xA;2km or so @ 6%&#xA;4km or so @ &amp;lt; 4%&#xA;&#xA;Category 3&#xA;2-3km @ 8% (or less on average, but with very steep pitches)&#xA;2-4km @ 6%&#xA;4-6km @ 4%&#xA;&#xA;Category 2&#xA;5-10km @ 5-7%&#xA;10+km @ 3-5%&#xA;&#xA;Category 1&#xA;5-10km @ &amp;gt;8%&#xA;10-15km @ 6%&#xA;&#xA;HC&#xA;Often Category 1 climbs as the last climb of the day&#xA;15+km @ 8%+ (Alpe D'huez, etc.)&#xA;20+km @ anything uphill. (Galibier is ~=4% over 40km if I recall correctly)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned though, you can find exceptions for any of these. Some examples would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2006, the TdF included the Cauberg, a key climb of the Amstel Gold race. It covers about 1.5km with an average of about 5%, it was ranked Category 3. There are a couple hundred meters @ 11% on it and placed just before the finish, it shattered the peloton.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2010, stage 12 finished just after the Col de la Croix Neuve. This was ranked as a Category 2, despite being only 3.1km long. It averaged 10% though, so hardly easy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many of the category 4 climbs in the early flat stages would be unranked on a hillier stage. They exist so there is excitement in the king of the mountains classification early.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2010-09-27T21:20:08.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1234" CreationDate="2010-09-28T04:55:38.770" Score="16" ViewCount="1670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally try to ride in traffic as a vehicle, following the rules of the road, stopping at red lights, taking the lane, etc. In many urban areas, you are not allowed to ride on the sidewalk (pavement for those from the UK). However, there are some times when it is unavoidable to ride more like a pedestrian than a vehicle, and I have some trouble figuring out when, or how, I should &quot;switch modes.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most bike racks are on the sidewalk. It feels silly to stop and walk my bike for the handful of yards from the street to the bike rack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some bike paths are accessible only from the sidewalk, not directly from the street.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I stop at a stop light, and it goes to an all-way pedestrian walk signal. While I normally try to follow all the rules that a car will follow, it seems silly to wait (and get in the way of the first car while I'm accelerating) when I can just ride across the intersection on the walk signal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some complicated intersections are dangerous to traverse on a bike, but have nearby crosswalks which may be easier to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some bike paths cross streets with a cross walk, which are generally intended for people who are going at pedestrian speed, not bike speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some issues that I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cars likely don't expect to be watching for people riding onto or off of the sidewalk. If, for instance, I need to make a left turn and go up on the sidewalk for a bit to get onto a bike path, I worry that drivers who aren't expecting traffic to go that way might not predict accurately where I'm going.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I feel like using crosswalks and cross lights weakens the &quot;same road, same rules&quot; type campaigns to help give bicyclists access to the roads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm sometimes not sure when it's acceptable to switch modes. There are some cases where I can cut through some pedestrian paths, and ride on the sidewalk for a few hundred feet, or I can go around a couple of blocks on the road; should I be &quot;cheating&quot; a bit by riding on the sidewalk briefly, especially given that there are all of the circumstances listed above in which you need to ride on the sidewalk, or should I be trying to always treat myself as a vehicle and never use the sidewalk unless absolutely necessary?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-01T03:00:25.763" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T12:35:53.220" Title="When should cyclists use pedestrian facilities?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2010-09-28T07:38:22.687" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can tell you what I do. Your local laws may vary, of course, so check them! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few cases where I feel it'd be simpler to just get off my bike and walk -- complicated crossings, or perhaps transferring to a bike path. One of the advantages of a bike is that you can get off it and push it along. If doing that is safer and more efficient, I won't hesitate to do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a cyclist is going to use pedestrian facilities, it'd be safer for everyone concerned for the cyclist to dismount and push the bike along. If you feel silly walking those few yards to a bike rack, well, that's just fine, feeling a little silly isn't going to kill you. And are the few seconds one would save by riding on the sidewalk really that important? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those bike path/street/sidewalk intersections you mention can indeed be badly designed. You'll have to use your judgement there. If you can be more specific and show us an example, I'd be happy to tell you how I'd handle it, but there's no substitute for experience and being on the spot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T07:38:22.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2010-09-28T08:47:07.707" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases it's a matter of common sense and good judgement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pavement between the road and the bike racks is quiet and you're not going to impede anyone, cycle it. Same for the bike path not directly accessed from the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 3rd point, though is the crux of many discussions and we should be careful in how to answer it here. My perspective, although it's not clear whether this is the (UK) legal situation, but just how I 'morally' feel, is that if you approach the junction on a bike you shouldn't confuse the situation by morphing into a pedestrian and pushing your bike through the junction, then remounting your bike. While this might seem expedient it is reinforcing the view of other road users that you're somehow less than a proper road user, if you can use other facilities, then you should all the time, says that argument. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly there are some intersections where it might be safer to do so, but the law (and cyclists' reputations) are often contrary to safety. It's a tricky question and common sense is often not to the fore in confrontations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to avoid &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; use of the pavement unless it is explicitly marked as shared use, but where it's not clear, to try to not do things that would blatantly and needlessly annoy others. After all, cyclists in many locales have a bad reputation for selfish behaviour, I'd rather not add to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T08:47:07.707" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1238" CreationDate="2010-09-28T12:18:56.277" Score="27" ViewCount="53132" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best/easiest way to get the tyre back on to a rim after removing it to fix a puncture for example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tyres can be really hard to get back on to the rim. I don't like using the tyre levers as I usually end up pinching the inner tube and making another hole. I can usually do it with just my fingers and thumbs but it takes a lot of time and effort (and sore thumbs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, this is for a 26&quot; mountain bike wheel with inner tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="238" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T11:34:51.207" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T18:40:59.410" Title="How to get the tyre back on to the rim easily?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1235" CreationDate="2010-09-28T12:54:38.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a little silicon grease on the rims and found it made a huge difference - when I was a car mechanic we always used a little tyre soap to make the tyre slip on to the rim more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few comments, it would be wise to clean the rim after this with a degreasing agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="519" LastEditorUserId="519" LastEditDate="2010-09-28T15:44:25.380" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T15:44:25.380" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2010-09-28T13:03:10.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At most when you are going at the &lt;strong&gt;same speed as a pedestrian&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I have with pushing my bike, is that it makes me wider and often pedestrian will walk into the pedals.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T06:39:45.807" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T06:39:45.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1235" CreationDate="2010-09-28T13:05:48.147" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on where you are and the conditions. Youtube has some video's, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5K-DXt9djA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;such as this one&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/i5K-DXt9djA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My little tip is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have the tube slightly inflated before putting the tyre around it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have the tyre completely off the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the tube into the tyre, having first made sure that there are no foreign objects in the tyre first.&#xA;3a. It may not be the case, but check to make sure the tyre is going to rotate in the correct direction when mounted on the wheel. You should see an arrow close to the brand name of the tyre indicating the direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pinch the bead of the tyre together and introduce it to the rim at the point where the valve goes through the rim. Put the valve through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start sliding the bead over the rim, keeping the tyre firmly pressed into the rim by placing the part of the tyre already in against your crotch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work both sides up until it becomes very difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defalte the tube and apply some washing up liquid to the rest of the bead left to be mounted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping the bead tightly together, slide the tyre onto the rim using your thumbs or fingers only.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pinch the sidewalls of the tyre and make sure that a pinch has not occurred. Go round the whole tyre to make sure it ok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate the tube until the tyre is seated in the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check once more that the tyre is seated correctly and if possible try to make sure that no other pinches exist. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that when the wheel is spun that no bumps are present in the sidewall or tyre surface. Make sure the tyre thread runs true.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fully inflate the tyre to correct pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spin once more to check for problems. Ping the tyre to hear that lovely sound :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount the wheel and off you go!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="518" LastEditorUserId="10843" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T18:40:59.410" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T18:40:59.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1235" CreationDate="2010-09-28T13:13:29.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually make sure I have my cycling mittens on.  I also put enough air into the tube so that I can push the tube inside of the tyre and in place on the rim all the way around.  I then use my hands to put the tyre bead on the rim, rolling on left side and then the right side, starting at the valve and working to the opposite point.  I also try to use the flesh on the base of my thumbs to do the hard rolling work.  As I get close to having the complete tyre on, I let a little bit of air out of the tube, so that you release the pressure on the bead enough to get the last part on with your hands.  In the really tight cases, I use just a single tyre lever just to the left of the furthest point to get the tyre moving in and then use my thumb for the very last &quot;push&quot;.  Since you has the tube inflated enough at the start to position it inside the tyre, you should find that you avoid pinching the tube.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then inflate the tube just a little bit more, and go around looking at the inside of the rim and tyre join, looking to see if the tube is pinched by the tyre.  The pressure needs to be low enough to be easy to push the tyre in as you go around by high enough to give the tyre some solid shape.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you get confident enough about putting the tyre on, you can skip the slow check and just pump the wheel up to full pressure.  Then look on both sides of the wheel at the line on the tyre just above the rim.  This should be a nice and even distance from the rim, all the way around.  If it goes towards the rim or away from the rim in any spot then you have a pinch and you need to let the pressure out the wheel pronto, before she blows!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T13:13:29.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1157" CreationDate="2010-09-28T14:19:40.023" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One problem that is rather rare is that the caps can add to the weight of the valve and contribute to wheel wobble when going at very high speeds (&gt; 80km/hr) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T14:19:40.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-28T15:22:58.703" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never, ever listen to music while cycling. As Scottie says, &quot;Cyclists use their ears like rear view mirrors.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you should also have a traffic side mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T15:22:58.703" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-28T15:22:58.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1070" CreationDate="2010-09-28T20:26:53.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked &lt;a href=&quot;http://mattdeblass.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a friend&lt;/a&gt; about this. He's a bicycle mechanic, and he sent me this in response to this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it will do any harm, I just doubt it will do much good either. First of all, my experience makes me think that &amp;quot;layering&amp;quot; lube isn't going to do much, since the motion of the chain pivots (the lube only works INSIDE the chain, where it pivots, all the lube sitting on top of your chain does nothing but attract dirt) will simply stir the two lubes together and mix them up, so the order that you put them on isn't going to have a measurable effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, I don't know what benefit you'd get by blending the two. Teflon &amp;quot;dry&amp;quot; lube is a great all around lubricant which attracts relatively little crud. However, in very wet conditions it washes off pretty easily. Wet lubes are stickier and pick up more dirt, but don't wash off as easily in wet conditions. So by mixing wet and dry lube you should get a coating of lubrication that... well, picks up a lot of dirt but doesn't wash off easily in wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the video he referenced may have meant is that you don't have to clean dry lube off your chain before putting on additional wet lube. It is possible that you can &amp;quot;thin out&amp;quot; a wet lubricant by mixing it with a lighter lube to get an in-between mix, I've never really experimented that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to really damage your chain with lubrication would be to use something like motor oil which hardens with prolonged exposure to air, to allow a sticky lube to attract too much grit which will wear your chain down, or to rely entirely something like WD-40 which evaporates within 48 hours and leaves your chain effectively unlubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T20:26:53.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1235" CreationDate="2010-09-28T21:02:30.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you're doing it wrong.   Maybe it's the type of tire levers you are using. The ones I use are made of plastic, and are quite thick.  I don't think I've ever punctured a tube with the tire lever.  For me, I find my tires are quite tight, and doing it by hand is impossible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-09-28T21:02:30.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-28T22:19:57.670" Score="3" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have SPD pedals on all of my bikes. I've stuck with them so far as they worked relatively well and I couldn't justify having two types of shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can justify two types of shoes now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These pedals/shoes/etc would be for my road bike and likely used on the track as I am going to spend a bit of time at the local velodrome this winter. My primary criteria is probably strength, with price second. I'm a sprinter and saving money is always good. Weight doesn't really matter at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Look and Shimano road pedals look good, but they have a number of different models across the board. Any suggestions or ones to stay away from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T02:47:48.050" Title="What pedals should I upgrade to for racing on the road and possibly track?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5402" CreationDate="2010-09-28T22:48:57.353" Score="7" ViewCount="3092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a '09 Felt Niner 29&quot; SS with an EBB. After a thorough clean and reassembly of the BB the creaking will subside for a ride or so and then come back. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; the problem appears to be dirt getting into the bottom bracket area. The combination of sweat, water bottle drip'age or post ride spray down results in dirt getting into the BB area. The only way I can see to prevent the creaking is to somehow seal off the exposed face of the BB preventing dirt from getting inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="250" LastEditorUserId="250" LastEditDate="2011-05-23T22:06:29.407" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T02:24:36.447" Title="How do I stop my EBB (Eccentric Bottom Bracket) from creaking?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1248" CreationDate="2010-09-28T23:57:03.190" Score="14" ViewCount="4083" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever made a set of studded tires?  What did you use?  I read about a method somewhere but I cannot recall where.  I heard that you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill/make a small hole through the tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw a screw through the hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover the screw in part of the screw with duct tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am somewhat skeptical if this would work or not.  Anyone have any suggestions?  I was thinking rivets might work better.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSZYw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/689/how-do-i-gear-up-a-bike-for-winter-riding/694#694&quot;&gt;Picture source.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T20:59:31.177" Title="How to make studded tires" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;ice&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2010-09-29T00:19:38.407" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ICEBIKE&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/tires.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;good page describing studded tires&lt;/a&gt;, including how to make your own.  The basic process is as you describe: drive screws from the inside of the tire and cover them with something to protect the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UT3pN.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Studded tire cross section&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Count the knobs and evenly spread out the 25 screws for each side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Punch holes, from the outside of the tire, into the designated knobs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Robertson bit in the drill to drive the screws in the tire from the inside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put liner inside tire and make sure it covers the screw heads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a generous dusting of baby powder between the liner and the tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount tire on the rim (ouch! watch out for the points!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate to maximum pressure. Put the wheel on the bike (mind the points). Spin the wheel to make sure that the studs don't catch on anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the takeaways here are that you don't need screws in every tread block and that the screws shouldn't be in the center.  Screws placed in the center of the tread will simply wear down quickly; you really just want them on the outer tread blocks, positioned such that they barely touch the ground when the bike is upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T01:14:47.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1246" CreationDate="2010-09-29T02:02:12.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your mileage may vary, but this has worked for me.  Try using some telfon tape around the outside of the EBB before you put it in.  It's cheap and you can get it at a local hardware store in the plumbing section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="494" LastActivityDate="2010-09-29T02:02:12.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1245" CreationDate="2010-09-29T02:23:14.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will probably be fairly subjective. I ride with Time MTB pedals and keep up with anyone in my category. Stick with known brands and I'm sure you'll be fine. Time, Look, SpeedPlay, Shimano, Crank Brothers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-09-29T04:49:20.747" LastActivityDate="2010-09-29T04:49:20.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1245" CreationDate="2010-09-29T03:41:57.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend the Look Keo Classic pedals if you are not hyper-sensitive to the weight.  They offer a carbon version if you decide to spend the extra bucks for the lighter version.  Popular and well-liked pedal with the extremely common Look cleat style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked my pair up from probikekit.com, they had the best price at the time and offered free shipping but YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="525" LastActivityDate="2010-09-29T03:41:57.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1245" CreationDate="2010-09-29T09:20:46.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the track you want a pedal with little float, on a road bike you'll want a bit more, but they will both still be a lot stiffer than your current SPDs. I presume you'll be using your own pedals on the track bikes so it isn't a question of needing to liaise with the track to confirm to their standard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Look Keo on the road bike mainly because there's a decent selection of pedals available so the upgrade path just isn't something to think about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some decent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/buyers-guide-to-clipless-road-pedals--15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;background reading&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-29T09:20:46.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-30T03:46:06.387" Score="10" ViewCount="6714" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This page is for a general answer and it consists of at least two main parts: personal experience and technical part. The technical parts are perhaps the two hardest parts.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone attempted to make a cargo trailer for their bike? How did you do it?  How has it worked? How long did it take? Would you do it again?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Technical parts with their own separate questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1257/trailer-hitch-between-a-bike-and-trailer&quot;&gt;How can you make a trailer hitch between a bike and trailer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3211/how-to-attach-and-mount-a-wheel-onto-a-trailer&quot;&gt;How can you attach/mount a wheel onto a trailer?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T00:26:17.777" Title="How to make a cargo trailer?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-01T01:42:00.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13632" CreationDate="2010-09-30T03:49:47.263" Score="18" ViewCount="18634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make a bike cargo trailer.  It seems to me that making the hitch will be one of the most difficult parts so I opened a separate question for this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you attach the trailer to the bike?  Would you attach it at the seatpost (high) or near the wheel axle (low).  How would you allow the trailer to pivot both up and down and side to side?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1256/how-to-make-a-cargo-trailer&quot;&gt;How to make a cargo trailer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T17:57:45.567" Title="Trailer hitch between a bike and trailer?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1257" CreationDate="2010-09-30T04:17:33.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a full answer, but I'll get started with the attachment point part of the question: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaching to the seatpost is more convenient, and recommended for trailers that are carrying very little in the way of weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaching at the axle is far less convenient, as you have to bend down to attach and reattach, but can potentially carry a lot more weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Axle hitches also face the choice of attaching on one side (the non-drivetrain side, usually) or on both, like a BOB touring trailer does. A double-sided attachment is also going to be harder to engineer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-09-30T16:03:18.990" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T16:03:18.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-09-30T04:29:33.800" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The importance of layered clothing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my earliest bike commute on a crisp fall day, I put on a coat and headed out. At first I was cold, but after a mile or two I got comfortable. Halfway up my first hill I warmed up and unzipped my coat. At the top of the hill I took it off. By the bottom I was freezing again and put the coat back on. And then again on the next hill...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, over the years I've found that a wind shell plus various thin layers is key to cold weather comfort while commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T04:29:33.800" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-30T04:29:33.800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2010-09-30T04:38:27.483" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;rebar bars&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spraygraphic.com/ViewProject/6595/normal.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rebar bike&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPg3f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T04:38:27.483" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-30T04:38:27.483" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1256" CreationDate="2010-09-30T05:27:16.633" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a trailer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.appropedia.org/Backpack_frame_bike_trailer&quot;&gt;similar to this one&lt;/a&gt;. It's based on using a second hand aluminum backpack frame and lightweight conduit.  This one connected very simply to a carabiner attached to the seat post. At the time I had access to a drill press which simplified things for someone building it alone - you will want help keeping things aligned if you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/bicycle-trailer./&quot;&gt;built one out of a large container&lt;/a&gt; like this very simply - again connecting to the seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T05:27:16.633" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-01T01:42:00.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1221" CreationDate="2010-09-30T05:42:07.853" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This link doesn't have printable plans, but a small pic and a detailed description.  Basically it's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_4937448_build-bike-rack.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;connected set of slots that sit on the floor&lt;/a&gt;.  I've seen slot-based racks at triathlons lately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to expand your materials to PVC, I have built 4 racks that are variations of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/goodies/TruckbedBikeRack.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this plan&lt;/a&gt;.  I think this has three advantages over wood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PVC is inexpensive and light weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's easy to work with - you can leave some pieces unglued and the rack becomes collapsible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Like the link, I build mine to custom fit in the back of a truck - allowing it to double as a floor and truck rack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the key concept for a floor rack is a slot approx the same width as the tire, with a little room to spare for the spokes.  The slot can be horizontal like the wood plan, diagonal like the PVC plan, or vertical like the typical pipe rack found on city streets. Good luck, it sounds like a fun project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T15:47:58.673" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T15:47:58.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="64" CreationDate="2010-09-30T14:51:45.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second the recommendation to visit your LBS for a fitting.  Not only might they be able to help with shoe/cleat placement, but a fit in other areas such as seat height may help alleviate any nerve impingement that might be happening.  If you ride a lot, this is pretty important to take care of.  Hope it gets cleared up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="528" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T14:51:45.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2010-09-30T16:12:59.737" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the more interesting bars I've tried is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikeman.com/bicycle-product-reviews/product-testing/1080-titec-h-bar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Titec H-Bar&lt;/a&gt; (there are also other brands of H-Bar, as I recall).  Insane amount of hand positions.  Can be hard to find a good spot for levers and shifters, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wFIm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Titec H-Bar&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2019-02-22T18:55:59.110" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T18:55:59.110" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-30T16:12:59.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="64" CreationDate="2010-09-30T16:17:46.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correctly fitted shoes must be part of the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it is not good for our body’s to keep making the &lt;strong&gt;same constrained movement for a long time&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could try stopping every hour, and removing your shoes and then flexing your feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T16:17:46.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-09-30T17:09:48.613" Score="0" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=52068&amp;amp;menuItemId=9309&amp;amp;eid=4927&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Sport MTB Shoe&lt;/a&gt; for my &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002NVJEOM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dual Shimano pedals&lt;/a&gt;.  Love the clipless pedals, but this specific shoe seems to rub/apply pressure to both my big toes after a long ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They fit, but I think the tip of the shoe is too tough, or made cheaply.  They only cost $90, so I thought I might need to invest in a lighter, softer, more expensive shoe.  I have been using them for about a month everyday to work/back, and weekend rides, figured they're broken-in enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really sure, and I know the community here will be able to help.  Which is your preferred, favorite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T18:35:01.390" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T18:35:01.390" Title="What is your favorite/preferred road shoe?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-30T17:09:48.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1267" CreationDate="2010-09-30T17:31:01.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two pairs of road shoes - the SPDs on my commute bikes (because I need to clip in and out a lot and possibly to walk around at the end of the ride) are very comfortable ... and are exactly what you have. You could take a more precise look at the setup - if you move the cleat slightly, perhaps the location of some application of undue pressure might shift and relieve the toes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T17:31:01.707" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-30T17:31:01.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1267" CreationDate="2010-09-30T17:58:58.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preferred cycling shoes are the ones that feel good and I can stand to be in all day. Currently for road cycling I have Specialized and before that it was Sidi. I have some Shimano mountain bike shoes for commuting. I have no idea what I'll buy the next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit obsessive about shoe fit so I usually wind up trying on several pairs before I walk out of the LBS with a pair of shoes. One thing is that I ignore brands other than as an indication of quality and previous experience. Two, I start out by trying on the same model I have if I liked it. Three, I compare at least 2 others. And also, look at the shoe as to quality and construction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-09-30T18:15:55.313" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T18:15:55.313" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-30T17:58:58.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1257" CreationDate="2010-09-30T18:00:39.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this solution on Instructables: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-strong-flexible-bicycle-trailer-coupler/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-strong-flexible-bicycle-trailer-coupler/&lt;/a&gt; which uses two large casters to give you a large degree of movement between bike and trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T18:00:39.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1267" CreationDate="2010-09-30T21:01:03.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always come back to SIDI shoes no matter how many other pairs I've tried on. Been almost 10 years with a pair of SIDI shoes powering my cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T21:01:03.980" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-09-30T21:01:03.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1256" CreationDate="2010-09-30T21:06:48.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a trailer using a kit from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wicycle.com/cargo_diy_kit_bicycle_trailer.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which was inspired by finding &lt;a href=&quot;http://valdodge.com/2009/07/04/custom-bike-trailer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a bad shot of mine with the first cargo load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xt8Jo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T21:06:48.073" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-01T01:42:00.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1235" CreationDate="2010-09-30T21:45:15.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difficulty of getting the last bit of tire bead on is a factor of the rim and tire combined.  Tight bead on tire and or tight spec on rim.  One of the best tool free ways is to work the tire around as stated above (like putting the lid on tupperware) starting at the valve. Then the last bit should be rolled on using the top of the palm. A twist around the rim away from you. As if you were rolling a grip forward. This gives a more leverage than thumbs and does not risk pinching the tube with a tool, plastic or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="289" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T21:45:15.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1246" CreationDate="2010-09-30T21:48:19.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try greasing the interface between parts. The bolts provide enough clamping power to prevent slippage.  Also confirm the creaking is indeed coming from the EBB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="289" LastActivityDate="2010-09-30T21:48:19.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-01T05:21:12.313" Score="3" ViewCount="36774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always wanted to build my own bike and I figured that a fixie has the least number of parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please post one part per answer. Please explain what I should be looking for in the part. Also please recommend a make/model and give approximate cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-16T22:58:45.530" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T10:19:27.133" Title="What are the parts needed to build your own fixie?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2010-10-01T07:54:57.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In France, laws are not tailored for bicycles and specific equipements are not common (though this is changing in the right direction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That given, my first concern is my own safety and safety of people around me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the situation, it means that I conform to laws most of the time, but I feel free to use pedestrian facilities -- at the speed of a pedestrian -- whenever the road is too dangerous for a biker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T07:54:57.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1257" CreationDate="2010-10-01T08:07:02.623" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3 trailers and have previously owned a fourth (which was my first) each of which has had a different attachment mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have 3 issues to address:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attachment to the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &quot;quick&quot; release mechanism so you can, if you want, separate the bike from the trailer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Achieving a universal joint of some sort (or at least sufficient degrees of freedom to avoid any unpleasantness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crudest connection I have is for my shopping trailer (a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.christianiabikes.com/english/uk_main.htm&quot;&gt;Christiana&lt;/a&gt; from Denmark) - this is a substantial lump of stiff rubber that has a hole for the seatpost and a long &quot;tongue&quot; that goes to the trailer drawbar over the back wheel of the bike, there's then a pin through the drawbar to hold it in place. This is not a particularly elegant solution, but it works. You get rotation of the rubber round the seatpost and then both up and down and twist from the rubber tongue. I've managed to put the trailer on its side with a combination of a pothole whilst being a bit too keen when the trailer was empty and the bike stayed upright...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other three all attach to the bike around the rear axle/chainstay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First was a Winchester child trailer which had a j clamp to go around the seatstay and, I think, something springlike to provide the articulation - not quick to attach/detach but pretty effective when on. Contemporary trailers often use &quot;Weber&quot; connection components for which are, I believe, available for purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third is the attachement for our Bike Friday Triplet - a plug and socket arrangement, plug clamped very firmly to the rear seat stay and the socket on the draw bar. Right here, right now I can't remember how it articulates (but it does).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second - and last because its by far my favourite (simple, elegant and effective!) is for my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.radicaldesign.nl/en/products/bicycle-trailers/cyclone-iii/cyclone-iii&quot;&gt;Radical Cyclone&lt;/a&gt;. Bike end is a ball on bit of bent metal that goes over the rear axle and is clamped in place by whatever holds you back wheel on already. Trailer end is a polymer cup with a sprung steel cap to hold it in place. You can see both on their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.radicaldesign.nl/en/products/bicycle-trailers/parts-and-accessories&quot;&gt;accessories&lt;/a&gt; page. I've used this trailer for touring - you barely know its there apart from the fact that you go more slowly (even more slowly in my case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above work more than adequately well. Articulation can be provider by a ball and socket, by a universal joint - multiple &quot;hinges&quot; (this is how a BoB trailer works horizontal through the axle, vertical at the trailer and no need for &quot;twist&quot; to cope with the lean of the bike as its single wheel and therefore will lean with the bike) or by having something that will physically bend and twist (spring, rubber).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T08:07:02.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2010-10-01T12:30:28.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The same as a normal bike, minus gear derailleurs (brakes can be handy, although not completely necessary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flip-flop_hub&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;flipflop hub,&lt;/a&gt; it enables you to freewheel by switching the wheel around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, you expect people to come here and list every single part for a bicycle, tis a bit weird if you ask me ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="484" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T12:30:28.903" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-01T12:30:28.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2010-10-01T15:30:24.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some will disagree&lt;/a&gt;, but I would advocate using &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/827/clipless-pedals-first-time-user-buyer&quot;&gt;cleats&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the major reasons for riding a fixed is to feel your connection to the effort required to move you - and introducing a disconnect in your foot/pedal takes away from that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, braking with your legs is easier if you're not worrying about your foot coming away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T15:30:24.897" CommentCount="7" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-01T15:30:24.897" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2010-10-01T16:14:09.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to the revised question is an easy one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When the cyclist is being a pedestrian and not a cyclist&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in the UK at least that distinction is fairly clear - if you're on the bike and riding you're a cyclist and if you're off and pushing you're a pedestrian (and there is case law to back this up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grey areas? - none strictly (-: But in practical terms across the pavement from or to where you park at the start or end of the journey and maybe the odd place else where there are no pedestrians (but even then with a lot of care) but to my mind absolutely not en-route (I tend  not to use a route that involves a &quot;cyclists dismount&quot; sign more than once since the second time I need to make the journey I will know better...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T16:14:09.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2010-10-01T16:24:08.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A nice old road frame (80s-vintage w/ horizontal dropout) will get you going in fine bike messenger style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T16:24:08.177" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-01T16:24:08.177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1284" CreationDate="2010-10-01T16:33:41.363" Score="14" ViewCount="4561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some guidance on what hand signals and strategies to keep me alive on the roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-13T18:25:34.530" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T14:13:32.403" Title="What hand signals work best for cyclists in the US?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;signals&gt;&lt;us&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1282" CreationDate="2010-10-01T17:11:44.243" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being a motorcyclist, I stick to the standard hand signals using the left arm.  At least in Arizona (other states may vary) this is listed as the official method for turn signaling, and even appears in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://azdot.gov/mvd/custsvcguide.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Driver License Manual&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left arm straight out:  Turning left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left arm bent pointing the hand straight up:  Turning right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left arm bent pointing the hand straight down:  Slowing down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like this (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daytonamotorcycletraining.com/Motorcycle-hand-signals.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image credit&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jniot.gif&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it appears that I'm dealing with a total moron (at a stop sign, for example) I will occasionally throw the right arm straight out to say that I'm turning right, but this is fairly rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-10-01T17:21:44.867" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T17:21:44.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1282" CreationDate="2010-10-01T17:15:39.567" Score="17" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Actual legal signals:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Left Turn&lt;/strong&gt; - hand out straight to the left (with palm forward (not down or up).  I'll often point with two fingers to help convey the message.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Right Turn&lt;/strong&gt; - hand out straight to the right; mirror of the left turn.&lt;sup&gt;&amp;dagger;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stop (or slow)&lt;/strong&gt; - Left hand straight down with palm flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Commonly recommended but not necessarily exactly what the law says:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Merging&lt;/strong&gt; - Point at the lane position you're merging to.  Looking over your shoulder in the direction you're going to merge can also help make drivers aware you're planning to merge.  Or point straight, the same as with a turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Straight forward (at intersection)&lt;/strong&gt; - point forward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&amp;dagger;&lt;/sup&gt; In most of the US, left hand straight up (palm forward) and upper arm straight to the left to signal a right turn is a legal alternative or the legally preferred signal, but many drivers will misinterpret it. I highly recommend using the right hand straight out to the right version (either with palm forward or pointing with your fingers), since many people are either unfamiliar with the left-arm-straight-up signal, or misinterpret it (perhaps even as a rude gesture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-01T20:43:57.687" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T20:43:57.687" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1327" CreationDate="2010-10-01T17:30:08.873" Score="8" ViewCount="8509" Body="&lt;p&gt;see also &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1282/what-are-the-accepted-hand-signals-for-cyclists-in-the-us&quot;&gt;What are the accepted hand signals for cyclists in the US?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T20:07:52.883" Title="What are the accepted hand signals for cyclists in the UK?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;signals&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1257" CreationDate="2010-10-01T20:02:47.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It makes sense to me to buy this part of the setup or scavenge/cannibalize discarded old trailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T20:02:47.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2010-10-01T21:33:18.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most fixie-specific bits are the hub, cog, and lock ring.  I know it's supposed to be one part per post, but these really go together.  You can't use a regular-old free-wheel hub for your fixie (at least without some &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/fixxer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;modifications&lt;/a&gt;).  You'll need a fixed-specific hub which has threads for a lock ring, and a cog to match.  The lock ring is what keeps the cog from loosening when you use the drive train to stop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surly offers each of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;parts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T21:33:18.097" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-01T21:33:18.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1291" CreationDate="2010-10-01T21:59:06.397" Score="7" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tentative first-time bike touring/camping trip in the planning stages and working out my set-up. I have a good idea of the essentials. My question is especially directed to those who have bike touring/camping experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Beyond the obvious&lt;/em&gt;, what item did you really appreciate having along? Or, what item do you really wish you had, but didn't? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few important factors are: One, the trip is in an arid region. Two, a good 130 miles or so is quite remote. Three, it's a winter trip, but with (usually) much warmer temps than my native clime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The item could be a spare part, an accessory, a tool, safety related, or a comfort item. Basically looking for things that a first timer wouldn't necessarily think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T21:47:02.430" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T19:13:03.713" Title="Bike touring/camping tip(s)" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-01T21:59:06.397" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2010-10-01T23:07:07.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extra water bottles&lt;/strong&gt;. Whatever the climate, you can't have too much water in remote areas. I carry 4 or 5 bottles in areas like eastern Connecticut or southern New Jersey. IF you're going to carry more than a few water bottles, look into water bladders so the water doesn't slosh around as much. (If you've ever carried milk or water in a gallon container on a bike, you'll know what I mean.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-01T23:07:07.477" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-01T23:07:07.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2010-10-02T00:13:05.970" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done 10 long-distance bike tours in the past and one of the things I've needed on almost all of my tours (but most people forget to pack) is an &lt;strong&gt;extra set of rack screws&lt;/strong&gt;. These are the tiny little screws that hold your bicycle's racks, fenders and water bottle cages in place. As you travel, these little guys tend to wiggle themselves loose and fall out when you aren't watching. If you aren't carrying at least one or two extras, you might find yourself in bit of trouble, as having a loose rack dangling off of the front or rear of your bicycle can cause a serious accident while out there on the road. So pack a couple extra screws! They're lightweight and you can usually get them for free from your local bike shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Darren Alff" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-02T19:54:10.987" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T19:54:10.987" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-02T00:13:05.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2010-10-02T03:37:34.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take a small lawn chair when I tour. You know, one of those low ones with the mesh webbing. I've tried those psuedo chairs, but I think the real chair is best. Yeah, it weighs a couple of pounds, but what a treat after a long day or riding. Also, I take my topeak pump that resembles a mini floor pump. It's so much easier to use that it's easy to keep them properly pumped it. On group tours, everybody else used my pump. Skip those tiny expanding pumps. They're for racers. Get a good pump. Other than these two heavier than normal items I travel pretty light. My favorite tent is my 25 yr old Moss Starlet. It has a mesh top, but you still have privacy from the sides. This makes changing clothes much easier in a crowded campground. It's nominally a two-person tent, but perfect for one rider plus gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jim N" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T03:37:34.477" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-02T03:37:34.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="468" CreationDate="2010-10-02T03:56:39.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kevin I'm a father of 3 girls and a boy all grown up now but i use to ride them to pre-school [back in the day] using side streets when possible. In my opinion a trailer would be the best and safest.. when and if the bike falls the speed at which the childrens heads hit the ground is very very fast it is sometimes refered to as &quot;tip-speed&quot; even with a helmet i would highly discourage it.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Glenn" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T03:56:39.307" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-02T03:56:39.307" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2010-10-02T04:00:41.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After cleaning out the threads try running the bolt from the backside that should set all the threads in line on the outside where you are going to screw into ... just a thought&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Glenn" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T04:00:41.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2010-10-02T04:23:40.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I taught all four of my kids in a nearby park that had tall and nice grass .. i found that the grass made them pedal harder and it seemed easier for them to maintain their balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Glenn" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T04:23:40.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="51" CreationDate="2010-10-02T04:34:31.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other thing to consider is when your thighs are parallel to the ground the front of your knee should be breaking over the axis of the pedal so make sure your seat is set back far enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Glenn" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T04:34:31.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1299" CreationDate="2010-10-02T04:50:33.050" Score="24" ViewCount="3062" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commute is a bit over 5 miles each way through the city. It's not that long a commute; in traffic, it takes about 35 minutes door to door, and I'm never far from public transit that I could use in an emergency. I tend to prefer to travel light; rather than lugging a lot of equipment around so I can spend a while fixing my bike in the middle of my commute, I'd rather just lock it up and hop on the train or walk the rest of the way; this isn't a bike I'll be taking on long trips out in the middle of nowhere. Beyond the commute, I'll use my bike to get around town on weekends as well, but usually for similar sorts of rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you consider essential equipment for such a commute? What kind of bike would you choose for such purposes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it to carry a tire patch kit with me in such situations, or pump? How much rain gear should I have, or should I just give up and take the train at the slightest rain? Regular pedals, toe clips over normal shoes, or should I look into clipless pedals? Lights are of course a given, since I ride home after dark. Anything else I should think of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="454" LastEditDate="2018-04-29T14:14:11.187" LastActivityDate="2018-04-29T14:14:11.187" Title="Equipping a commuter bike for a 5 mile city commute" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1298" CreationDate="2010-10-02T06:00:18.103" Score="31" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Equipment/Accessories:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory/587#587&quot;&gt;Fenders&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; keep you dry if it's rained recently.  I prefer the &quot;full-coverage&quot; kind with a mudflap, but anything that keeps you from getting a stripe up your back is probably sufficient.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular &lt;strong&gt;platform pedals&lt;/strong&gt; (or even better: BMX style pedals) - clips or clipless and frequent stops don't go well together and might mean needing to lug shoes with you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;basket or rack&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; better to put your stuff on the bike than on your back, and you're bound to need to carry something sometimes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some kind of &lt;strong&gt;minimal &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1304/76&quot;&gt;rain gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  There's some cheap packable rain pants and rain jackets out there.  You might be able to make do with a rain jacket you already have.  Very preferable if the rain gear tries to be &quot;breathable&quot;.  Check the weather for the day before you leave in the morning and leave at home.  Or maybe a packable rain cape...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires &amp;mdash; &lt;strong&gt;smooth tires&lt;/strong&gt; that &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/27/what-type-of-tires-can-prevent-goatheads&quot;&gt;try to be puncture resistant&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water &amp;mdash; &lt;strong&gt;bottle cage&lt;/strong&gt; (or two) and &lt;strong&gt;water bottle&lt;/strong&gt; (or two).  Might want one of those water bottles to be insulated so that you can have ice water on hot days. (I love my &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory/589#589&quot;&gt;travel mug&lt;/a&gt; for a hot beverage in cold weather, and that works for cold beverages on hot days, too).  Don't necessarily need the water on the bike for every trip, but you should have a way to easily carry water on the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pant leg retention &amp;mdash; Something to keep your pant leg from getting into the chain.  Some bikes have a cover for the chain...  You can get a velcro strap...  Or you can just roll your pant leg up or stuff your pant leg into your sock...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sunglasses&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; Especially nice if you have some with swappable lenses, because sometimes you want light or clear lenses just to keep the wind and bugs out of your eyes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lights&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; forward white and rear red.  Blinking optional.  These could go on your helmet, be removable from the bike or permanently mounted on the bike...  Leave them home when you're not going to be riding at night.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reflective stuff&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;amp;mdash If you're concerned about night time visibility, look for &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retroreflector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;retroreflective&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; things. Reflective vests similar to what construction people use are common, cheap, and making your torso visible can be more helpful than making the lower bike parts visible.. Some reflective tape on various parts of the bike. The normal set of reflectors bikes usually come with. Reflective details on clothing, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Bike:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any bike&lt;/strong&gt; you like the feel of riding. Properly fit. A hybrid (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1195/different-kinds-of-handlebars/1206#1206&quot;&gt;flat handlebars&lt;/a&gt;, wide-ish road tires) bike marketed as a commuter would probably be ideal, and they often come with everything.  However, any halfway decent bike would be fine for what you described, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's any risk of carpal tunnel or similar issues from your job and/or other hobbies, seriously consider a handlebar setup with multiple hand positions. (bar ends on the flat handlebars, bullhorn bars, drop bars, etc...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Repair kit:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're particularly into bike repair, forget the on-bike pump and patch kit, carry enough &lt;strong&gt;cash for a bus or taxi&lt;/strong&gt; instead.  And keep track of where the bike shops are (and establish a relationship with one or two). Most bike shops can fix a flat in a few minutes without needing to be scheduled ahead of time, and they'll probably only charge $5-$10 (plus the cost of the new tube, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand: a pump can be mounted to the bike and doesn't weigh much, and a patch kit's pretty small. You'd need a tire lever or two (or multitool that includes them) also.  I do carry a pump, spare tube, patch kit and multitool with tire levers, but didn't when I was first bicycle commuting.  If you're using a bicycle with for short urban trips and are able and willing to use a secondary emergency transportation option (bus, taxi), flats should be very rare.  Changing a flat only takes a few minutes, so unless you get a flat right as the bus is coming it's probably still faster to change a flat than take a bus.  And it's reasonably easy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T17:23:18.700" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1282" CreationDate="2010-10-02T07:52:52.633" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Right Turn and Stop signals (using the left hand) make sense when driving a car, since you can't stick your right hand out the window, but on a bike the right-arm/right-turn signal is probably more intuitive and therefore understandable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T07:52:52.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1285" CreationDate="2010-10-02T12:28:33.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm turning left I put my left arm straight out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm turning right I put my right arm straight out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I do the Hokey Cokey.....sorry got a bit carried away there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I vaguely remember from my Cycling Proficiency test that flapping your right arm up and down signals that you're stopping, but in the more than 30 years since I passed it I don't remember ever using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T12:28:33.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1285" CreationDate="2010-10-02T12:39:39.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the normal right, left signals, I also like to give little friendly waves to any drivers where they've demonstrated a rudimentary knowledge of the highway code, such as not turning across my path when I have right of way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T12:39:39.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2010-10-02T13:29:37.527" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Butterfly Bars - also known as touring or trekking bars&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3oBxL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: Lots of different positions available&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons: Not very light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often used for long distance touring bikes where comfort through being able to use different riding positions is essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T13:29:37.527" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-02T13:29:37.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-02T13:52:12.903" Score="33" ViewCount="9318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried wearing a raincoat to keep out the rain, but find I get hot and sweaty inside. So my question is, what clothing do you find works best for you when cycling in wet weather?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-03T01:54:58.347" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T09:03:16.550" Title="What clothing is best for wet weather/cycling in the rain?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-10-02T14:09:33.940" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rainclothes designed for cycling, preferably in a material that &quot;breathes&quot; (Goretex being the best known, I think). You will still get wet from the inside if you go too fast, but this type of material is way better than &quot;non-breathing&quot; varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/Satellite/PROD_JGPATH?landingid=1208436857421A&quot;&gt;Gore Bike Wear Path jacket&lt;/a&gt; and pants that I am pretty happy with. Rainclothes for biking is essential in rainy Denmark :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="506" LastEditorUserId="506" LastEditDate="2010-10-02T14:24:37.253" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T14:24:37.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1298" CreationDate="2010-10-02T16:00:55.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carry a spare tube and a CO2 canister with me &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt;.  They live under my bike seat in a small bag.  I can change a tire in 5 minutes flat, often this is significantly faster than walking home or waiting for public transport.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion this is the only thing that you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; bring with you.  Everything else is optional.  Water, rain gear lights, all of those things depend on what the conditions will be like.  Spare tube and CO2, you always need.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T16:00:55.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2010-10-02T16:02:16.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somebody told me a friend got a ticket in the UK when he overtook a police car going down hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was about 20 years ago and I didn't meet the offender myself. Possibly not a very useful answer to the question, but I thought it was interesting when I heard it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T16:02:16.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2010-10-02T17:20:00.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always like a wool hat.  I ride with a helmet but if it gets cool at night a hat really helps to keep you warm and cozy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T17:20:00.330" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-02T17:20:00.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2010-10-02T17:20:35.037" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quarters for emergency calls.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T17:20:35.037" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-02T17:20:35.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2010-10-02T17:22:10.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Duct tape for: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;medical emergencies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ripped clothing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ripped tents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;emergency bike repairs (I have considered reattaching my rack after I lost a screw.  Now I bring an extra screw).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T17:22:10.907" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-02T17:22:10.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2010-10-02T17:24:18.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mini vice grips.  I got a pair at a hardware store.  They are about 5 cm long.  Amazing little things.  Great for unexpected emergencies.  They are not big enough to grab onto the head tube but everything else they are great for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T17:24:18.233" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-02T17:24:18.233" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-10-02T17:25:34.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually just put up with the wetness. The best are clothes that don't absorb water, and therefore don't get heavy when they get really wet.  If I'm going to work, I have a change of clothes anyway, and otherwise I'm usually just going out on a recreational ride, and will be back home after I'm done.  One thing I would recommend is a pair of gloves with good grip.  Personally, I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442507835&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302888436&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MEC CyclPad&lt;/a&gt; gloves, as they are quite cheap, and provide quite a bit of grip from the rubberized palms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T17:25:34.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2010-10-02T17:26:05.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Backup food for energy&lt;/strong&gt;. Such as: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chocolate.  Gives you an extra boost/some caffeine, although it melts in warmer weather.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jerky is also a good emergency backup food for those who can stomach the taste. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dried fruit, particularly dried bananas (despite the horrible taste, dried bananas will give one a wonderful boost, just like regular bananas)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T20:43:09.067" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T20:43:09.067" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-02T17:26:05.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1285" CreationDate="2010-10-02T17:27:58.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Canada, It's &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left Turn: Left arm straight out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right Turn: Left arm bent up at the elbow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stop/slow down: Left arm bent down at the elbow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right arm isn't used because it's harder for drivers to see.  I thought the rules were pretty universal.  But according to @Amos, they aren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, In the UK, I assume it would be reversed to use the right arm, sing you ride on the left and side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T17:27:58.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-10-02T17:29:22.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biking raingear is always a compromise. Do you want to get wet from the rain or from sweat, or a little bit of both? I use a Foxwear jacket and pants, and I stay dry if I go slowly and don't work up a sweat. The material is warm but somewhat wicking and water resistant. In the summer I'll be more likely to change into lycra for the ride and just get wet, changing when I get to my destination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T17:29:22.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2010-10-02T18:17:13.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extra bike clothes&lt;/strong&gt;, stuff like tights, long-sleeve shorts/jerseys, whatever. Aside from layering while riding, these are great to sleep in. I find bringing extra civvies to be a waste of pannier volume, but bike clothes roll up to fit in tiny, tiny spaces. The coldest part of the day will always be while you're sleeping in your tent. Don't forget extra socks as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T18:17:13.513" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-02T18:17:13.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1325" CreationDate="2010-10-02T18:27:01.083" Score="31" ViewCount="2866" Body="&lt;p&gt;When riding on bike paths or mixed-use paths, there are usually pedestrians walking along them as well. Pedestrians tend to be somewhat unpredictable; they may suddenly turn around or step to the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your preferred method of warning pedestrians when you are overtaking them? I've been taught to say &quot;on your left&quot; or &quot;passing on your left&quot;, but many times when I've tried that, the pedestrians have misinterpreted me and stepped to their left, or turned around to look in a way that actually caused them to move left as well, putting them closer to my path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More recently, since my current bike came equipped with a bell, I've tried the approach of just ringing my bell once to indicate that I'm there. I worry that this might indicate to pedestrians that I'm impatient to pass them, and I recently had someone yell at me to &quot;say something&quot; when I did so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your preferred method safely overtaking pedestrians you are passing? Verbal warning, a bell, no warning at all and just giving them a wide berth at low speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T07:02:55.010" Title="Safely overtaking pedestrians" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1322" CreationDate="2010-10-02T18:47:18.647" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll ring my bell once or twice. If the pedestrians move over, all well and good. If not, I'll slow down a bit and call out &quot;on your left&quot;. If that doesn't do it, I'll slow down to walking speed and politely tap someone on the shoulder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, every situation is different. If there are dogs or kids, I get even more cautious. Pedestrians with headphones... I assume they to be erratic. There's no perfect way to handle this, and that's why bike paths aren't my preferred way to get around. (Except in the rain. It's amazing how a little rain empties the paths!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above all, keep in mind that pedestrians usually have the right of way over bikes and be polite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T18:47:18.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1322" CreationDate="2010-10-02T18:49:11.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually just ring my bell and say excuse me, then once I'm actually passing them I'll usually say thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend not to tell them which side due to the unpredictableness of the pedestrian and then just play it by ear depending which way they step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T18:49:11.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1322" CreationDate="2010-10-02T18:51:54.780" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the most important thing isn't what signal, but &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; you signal.  Try to give the pedestrians several seconds of warning. I've notice that many cyclists don't give the pedestrians enough time.  The pedestrians you're about to pass need to hear the signal, look around trying to figure out where the signal came from, decide with their friends whether to step right or left, move to the side, decide that the other side is better and move to the other side...  And that takes a few seconds...  ringing your bell when you're 10 feet (3 meters) back and moving fast doesn't really help.  This may mean needing to slow down on paths in general, and especially needing to slow down (or at least stop pedaling) as you approach pedestrians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bell.  From a good distance back.  And maybe again when getting closer if it didn't look like they noticed the first time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Good Morning (pause) Bicycle&quot; as a vocal warning.  (adjust the first part as appropriate).  That way you get their attention with the greeting, then once they're paying attention tell them that you're a bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I usually do is ring the bell (&quot;ding&quot;) when I'm a good distance back, then again twice (&quot;dingding&quot;) if I'm getting closer and they don't seem to have noticed.  I do this whether they're in the way or not, to warn them not to suddenly step into my way.  If they did have to move, or especially if had to go to some effort  (holding a dog back, keeping their child on the right side of the road, etc) I say &quot;Thank You&quot; and smile as I pass. Otherwise I just say &quot;good morning&quot; or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would avoid anything like &quot;on your left&quot;; most people will move right when you say that, but a small percentage will just hear the &quot;left&quot; and move left instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, avoid horns: they confuse people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-02T18:57:49.253" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T18:57:49.253" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1332" CreationDate="2010-10-02T18:55:31.733" Score="9" ViewCount="26928" Body="&lt;p&gt;Difficult to diagnose, I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I bought a single speed Schwinn a few months ago, and after riding it for a couple of weeks it started clicking in the back wheel somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken it in for a tune-up, mentioned to them there was a clicking sound, but they didn't notice anything (or didn't pay attention), and it still clicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't click, however, if you just pedal it with your hands, but seems to have something to do with putting your weight on it when you're actually riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just take it in again? Or is there something cheaper I could look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="545" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-02T19:09:44.537" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T20:06:44.650" Title="How do I get rid of this clicking sound in the back wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;clicking&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1285" CreationDate="2010-10-02T19:27:34.043" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a UK government website I found the following document (linked from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highwaycode/DG_069837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a page&lt;/a&gt; about the Highway Code for cyclists).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/guidance/the-highway-code/signals-to-other-road-users&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Signals to other road users&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (scroll to the bottom for cyclist information)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially there are three signals for cyclists:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left arm out - &quot;I intend to move in to the left or turn left&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right arm out - &quot;I intend to move out to the right or turn right&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Right) arm up and down - &quot;I intend to slow down or stop&quot; (very rarely if ever used...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality you will find only the left and right signalling used by UK cyclists - any other gestures would not be understood by enough other road users to make them worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="547" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2018-03-26T20:07:52.883" LastActivityDate="2018-03-26T20:07:52.883" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1354" CreationDate="2010-10-02T20:36:59.660" Score="6" ViewCount="1686" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had experience with carbon fiber mountain bikes? I'm still skeptical as to how robust they are. Is it true that a scratch will make the frame useless? And Trek has this process called OCLV ... is that just hype or does their carbon layup process really have significant benefits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="549" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-04T16:27:24.843" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T14:52:29.073" Title="Carbon Fibre Mountain Bikes" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="960" CreationDate="2010-10-02T20:37:25.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is Ortlieb l bought Office pannier which l can recommend give it is waterproof, robust and the way it attaches to the rack works. This is what l use for my company laptop in a padded bag.  If you are looking for something tougher try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.co.uk/black-21l-officebag-classic.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Office 2 bag&lt;/a&gt;  I did not go for this one based on price and weight, that said it looks like it would offer more protection, and would be waterproof.  Vital in Sunny Scotland :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="438" LastEditorUserId="438" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T10:45:42.813" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T10:45:42.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-10-02T20:41:51.947" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lightweight polyester or microfiber materials do the job. Pearl Izumi is my favourite. Bike specific rain jackets are a must if you are looking for comfort. Generally they are very thin and have air vents in them. There is no reason to wear heavy rain jackets. Instead, layer up up with a base layer (often merino wool or synthetic thermals) + mid layer + the shell (which is the jacket). That is probably the most common layup for cyclists and it will keep you warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="549" LastActivityDate="2010-10-02T20:41:51.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2010-10-02T21:01:15.060" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Riser-bars&lt;/strong&gt; place the rider in a more upright position than completely &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1195/different-kinds-of-handlebars/1206#1206&quot;&gt;flat bars&lt;/a&gt; and might be better for mountain-bike technical maneuvers such as slow drops to flat (hucking) and just generally lifting the front wheel to clear trail obstacles. (They are still flat handlebars, but are raised at the ends.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handlebar width is also important and the trend for mountain bikes seem like they are getting wider. Wider bars give more stability during hairy technical descents, but the downside is that trail side tree clearance is reduced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Hzr0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="549" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T00:47:17.657" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-02T21:01:15.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1326" CreationDate="2010-10-03T01:43:49.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem could be the lubrication on the rear hub. Perhaps it wasn't well greased at the factory. A tune-up should have caught this problem, particularly as you mentioned it. Another possibility is that there is a ball bearing missing from the rear hub, so that once every time the wheel turns around, the axle falls into the small gap created by the missing bearing (this happened on my daughter's new bike after about 3 months of occasional riding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike is still under warranty, then I would take it in. The problem should have been fixed the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try fixing it yourself, you will have to take off the rear wheel and disassemble the hub. This isn't hard, but if you've never done it before, try finding a local bike shop that will show you how. Some towns have co-op bike repair shops where for a small fee you can use their tools and there will be a mechanic on hand to guide you.&#xA;(for example Ottawa - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.re-cycles.ca&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.re-cycles.ca&lt;/a&gt;, Waterloo - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theworkingcentre.org/ct/cycles/cycles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.theworkingcentre.org/ct/cycles/cycles.html&lt;/a&gt;) Try looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this wiki&lt;/a&gt; for a shop near you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastActivityDate="2010-10-03T01:43:49.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1334" CreationDate="2010-10-03T08:29:56.647" Score="21" ViewCount="53744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done most of my cycling with flat handle bars on a mountain bike. I'd like to start commuting to work though and am considering getting a road bike with drop handle bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is though, I tried a bike in the past that had drops and didn't really find them comfortable. I hardly used the drops because it felt uncomfortable. This meant I usually kept my hands on the tops of the bars, and then that has the problem that I couldn't get to the brakes as quickly as I could with the flat bar bike I had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I had the drops set up at the wrong height when I tried them. What height should the drops be relative to the saddle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T18:34:32.250" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T23:15:57.553" Title="What height should drop handlebars be - relative to my saddle?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2010-10-03T08:42:30.813" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no single official accepted guidance. Typically the more you ride, the lower you will tolerate your bars, drops or straights. Pro cyclists have them as low as 10-15 cm below saddle, while amateurs tend to have them level or slightly higher than the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry that you cannot spend all your time in drops. Even pro cyclists prefer the more upright position with hands on top of the bars, and will typically go to drops only in critical moments (when in the front, in a breakaway etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing with the brakes -- well, that's just the way it is with road bikes and drop handlebars. For giving up immediate access to brakes you gain more hand positions on the bars, which helps immensely on long rides. With your hands in the convenient &quot;on the horns&quot; position, typically you will be able to apply enough pressure to the brakes to slow down, though for emergency braking you'll need to get down to the drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get an adjustable stem to experiment with handlebar height. Just change it for a normal stem once you decide, or other road cyclists will look down on you -- an adjustable stem is pretty much the mark of a &quot;Fred&quot; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="130" LastEditDate="2010-10-03T08:48:52.193" LastActivityDate="2010-10-03T08:48:52.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1322" CreationDate="2010-10-03T09:25:32.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that sound of tires works a way better than bell or speech :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, the best way is to keep your speed low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="552" LastActivityDate="2010-10-03T09:25:32.643" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-03T09:25:32.643" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-10-03T17:35:11.370" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bicycle year round in the Pacific Northwest and follow the mantra: there is no inappropriate weather, only inappropriate clothing. (Well, snow and ice may be inappropriate weather for bicycling) Despite commuting daily, I only purchased dedicated cycling rain gear yesterday -- and only did that for better visibility and more convenient pocket locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally: Layer so that you have options. Start out bundled up. After 5-10 minutes, you'll be warm and want to remove some clothes. When you do, outer layers should pack well. Alternately, you can just slow down. Some commuting days, I will just ride slow enough that I don't sweat. Riding a little slower only makes 10 minute difference in my commute time. I could often spend more time fine tuning my gear (and much more time parking a car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For raincoats, something that vents well is essential and will minimize sweat. No fancy fabric will do as much for sweat reduction as a zipper under the armpit and zippers that can open the coat from the bottom. I used a multi-purpose Marmot rain coat in this configuration for a decade with very little sweat. You will also use the raincoat on cold days to cut down on wind-chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visibility: If you use a general purpose rain jacket, it may not be bright. You can get reflective vests of various styles from bicycle shops. These have the advantage that you can use the vest when it is too hot to wear your high-visibility rain jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gloves are essential on days below 50F. I just used ski gloves in the winter. I got some waterproof cycling gloves that I'll try this winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long underwear (as used for skiing) will extend your cycling season by months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My legs and feet usually warm up fast. As &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1304/what-clothing-is-best-for-wet-weather-cycling-in-the-rain/1317#1317&quot;&gt;noted by Kibbee&lt;/a&gt;, make sure your socks are not cotton. They will stay warm even if wet. I bring an extra pair of socks for the way home to avoid the yucky feeling of putting on wet socks. Much cheaper than waterproof booties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="553" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2010-10-03T17:35:11.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-10-03T18:21:28.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;And, of course, once you've got where you're going, you'll feel a lot better about yourself if your belongings are dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an excellent Ortleib, courier style bag, which is totally waterproof, sealed by folding over the top. If you can change into dry clothes (in particular dry socks and shoes), embracing the wet is a lot easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-10-03T18:21:28.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1322" CreationDate="2010-10-03T18:24:14.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A squeaky brake? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make this kind of &quot;bip-bip&quot; noise, not quite as aggressive &quot;beep-beep&quot; but more than just a timid, polite cough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never liked bells - they seem to imply that you can't summon the courage to actually talk to someone and would rely on mechanics to bridge that gap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-10-03T18:24:14.743" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-03T18:24:14.743" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1341" CreationDate="2010-10-03T19:51:50.413" Score="0" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_518229_langId_-1_categoryId_165499&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mudguard-Topeak-Defender-Mudguard-FX-RX-FRT-REAR-/390221003211?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;amp;hash=item5adafbf9cb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these mudguards&lt;/a&gt; fit OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about fittings, but there is a picture on the bike link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T21:39:55.193" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T21:39:55.193" Title="Will the topeak FX &amp; RX mudguards fit a Carerra kraken?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;&lt;topeak&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1340" CreationDate="2010-10-03T20:43:45.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Topeak website, the front one attaches like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4cyoC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the rear one like this (onto the seatpost):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9bBHf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so it's likely they'll both fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A search for the Topeak FX Mudguard on Google Shopping gives me various ones at less than £9 as does the Topeak RX Mudguard. This place &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/m/4_Clothing%2Band%2BAccessories/1_Accessories/16_Mudguards%2B%2526%2BFenders/311_Topeak/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;allterraincycles.co.uk&lt;/a&gt; appears to have both the front and rear in stock and will charge you 2 quid less including delivery, than the ebay one you're looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-10-03T20:43:45.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1267" CreationDate="2010-10-03T21:35:16.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a second pair of Bontrager Street shoes to replace my first pair. They're comfortable, they come with removable, customizable insoles. They're leather and thus pretty waterproof unless the rain's really heavy. They've got recessed cleats so I never need to change my shoes when I get to my destination. They also look quite nice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking about it, since I cycle to work and then don't change them, I spend most of my waking hours wearing them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastActivityDate="2010-10-03T21:35:16.787" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-03T21:35:16.787" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1346" CreationDate="2010-10-04T00:03:19.593" Score="13" ViewCount="2960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen rules and graphics online that basically say that bikers are to yield to hikers. Is this the generally accepted rule, and if so, how do you define &quot;yield&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background&#xA;The areas I normally hike are wilderness areas (US) so I don't encounter cyclists very often. Yesterday I found myself on a trail that is very popular with mountain bikers and can honestly say that while hiking uphill I think that most of the cyclists barely bothered to slow down to allow me to step off the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coming down and normally being approached from behind they would slow and pass with comment like you normally would on a multi-use path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not being critical of the behavior of the cyclists - and in general I found them to be courteous - but it seemed that the expectation was that I would get out of the way, especially while I was hiking uphill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-04T00:17:57.270" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T10:44:51.957" Title="Do mountain bikers yield to hikers?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1322" CreationDate="2010-10-04T00:56:02.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been experimenting with pedaling backwards for a bit to get the freewheel to click, which has the advantage of creating a distinctly 'bicycley' sound.  OTOH, it's not very loud.  Also, not advisable on a fixie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="62" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T00:56:02.597" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-04T00:56:02.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1322" CreationDate="2010-10-04T01:14:15.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live, it's actually mandatory to have a bell on your bike, although I don't recall anyone ever getting a ticket for not having one.  It seems to be common courtesy to just ring the bell.  Most people understand what it means, and I can't recall anyone getting angry because they think I'm being rude.  Although I live in an area where cycling is quite popular. The main problem I find is from people with headphones on.  Usually they won't hear a bell, or anything else. Make sure you have plenty of time to steer out of the way, or stop in the case where they don't/can't hear you (some people are deaf).  Just because you rang your bell, don't expect that they won't step out in front of you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T01:14:15.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1343" CreationDate="2010-10-04T01:21:58.170" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual trail etiquette rules are, basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclists yield to everybody&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everybody yields to horses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're both cyclists (or both hikers, etc), somebody going downhill yields to somebody going uphill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as a pedestrian going uphill on a narrow path, the cyclists were supposed to yield to you.  However, if you looked like you were stepping off the trail, they probably assumed you wanted to let them pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yield means something like: slow down to the hiker's speed, and if needed pull to the side and let the hiker pass, and depending on conditions would likely mean needing to stop entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imba.com/about/rules-trail&quot;&gt;http://www.imba.com/about/rules-trail&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imba.org.uk/WhereToRide/TrailEssentials.html&quot;&gt;http://www.imba.org.uk/WhereToRide/TrailEssentials.html&lt;/a&gt; (the UK says &quot;Give Way&quot; instead of &quot;Yield&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.romp.org/modules.php?op=modload&amp;amp;name=Sections&amp;amp;file=index&amp;amp;req=viewarticle&amp;amp;artid=8#hikers&quot;&gt;http://www.romp.org/modules.php?op=modload&amp;amp;name=Sections&amp;amp;file=index&amp;amp;req=viewarticle&amp;amp;artid=8#hikers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists that don't yield on trails scare other trail users and eventually lead to controversy over cyclists on the trails and possibly closing or limiting access for cyclists to those trails. For instance, Mount Tamalpais was important to the original development of mountain biking, but cyclists are now banned from many of its trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T01:21:58.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1353" CreationDate="2010-10-04T01:40:36.623" Score="4" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Gary Fisher Kaitai, their low-end hybrid.    I use the bike for commuting so I have a rear rack and typically carry between 5 and 12 lbs back there.  When I get up to moderate speed (10-15mph) and let go of the bars they begin to wobble badly.  This happens to a lesser degree when there is no load on the rear rack, as well. The wheels are true and balanced, and I am riding Bontrager 700X32 road tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to correct this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="555" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T10:51:53.067" Title="Gary Fisher Kaitai suffers from handlebar wobble at moderate speed with 10lbs on rear rack" Tags="&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2010-10-04T02:05:10.240" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Learning to ride a bike on a traditional pedal bike can be a scary experience for both parent and child.  We've all been there.  The initial excitement of chosing the brightly colored princess bike or the bike adorned with the latest comic book superhero quickly fades when reality sets in.  That &lt;i&gt;reality&lt;/i&gt; is that a standard pedal bike is the wrong tool for teaching a child to ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional pedal bike is too tall for most young riders.  Training wheels create a false sense of security that prevents children from testing and mastering their balance skills.  Training wheels can also create wobble and cause the bike to tip over, making your little guy or girl fearful.  Many children will take one look at the metal contraption with the pedals, chain and jagged sprocket and decide they are not interested.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Balance bikes have a low profile that puts the child close to the ground.  Their feet rest firmly on the ground, putting them in total control.  With no scary sprockets, chains or pedals, the balance bike makes kids more comfortable and enthusiastic about learning to ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.balancebikes4kids.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;balance bike&lt;/a&gt;, kids learn at their own pace.  They can start by just walking the bike around on the sidewalk or grass.  Once they've gained a little confidence, they start to pump their feet more vigorously and test out their balance and steering. In no time at all, most kids will be propelling themselves around the neighborhood under their own power and cruising along as they lift their feet and let their newfound sense of balance take over.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Children as young as two are able to ride a balance bike, so why wait?  Skip the training wheels and let your child begin to build their balance skills with a balance bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your child is late in taking on the challenge of learning to ride, lower the seat, remove the pedals and find a small incline for them to coast down.  Let them build the confidence in their balance then add the pedals back on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="556" LastEditorUserId="18479" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T04:12:35.123" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T04:12:35.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-10-04T09:03:16.550" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are getting some good advice here on rain jackets, but the part of the accessory for cycling in rain that I find critical are a good quality overshoes - especially for commuting. There is nothing more annoying for me that arriving to work and have the shoes and socks wet, there is no chance for them to dry completely before the journey back home so you will end up putting the wet stuff on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried some cheap waterproof overshoes first but they did not really work in any heavier rain wet conditions, basically after 10 minutes you were the same as not wearing them at all. Then I bought overshoes made of neoprene, and they seemed to work a bit better, but again after about 15 minutes in the heavy rain the shoes were all wet - to be fair they kept the feet warm, so were better then nothing in the winter but still did not serve well the purpose of keeping the feet dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 years ago I eventually invested in the Gore Tex overshoes and finally it is something that actually works. I have about 35-45 minutes commute journey and so far they kept me dry. So my advice would be to invest in a quality gear from start- it will save you the annoyance and in the long run the money as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T09:03:16.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1322" CreationDate="2010-10-04T10:36:48.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally go silent. In case the road is blocked completely I slow down, choose a side and say &quot;Excuse me.&quot; just behind the ear, so it's clear where I need my space. If going in the opposite direction, I lean my head to my chosen side. It's is clear enough signal to allow me to pass on the left in my right-hand traffic country, when I choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adults are pretty predictable, in case they stand sideways I pass behind. For children I leave at least 1m space, slow down and look for possible distractions and points of interest, to predict unpredictable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T10:36:48.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1328" CreationDate="2010-10-04T10:47:58.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under the personal experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A fellow biker broke his carbon seatpost, mainly because it's very hard to fasten it with the right pressure (not everybody carries a torque wrench in the field). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On my road-bike I have no problem, although I'm kind of big and heavy (105 kg).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="19594" LastEditDate="2018-08-22T14:52:29.073" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T14:52:29.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1347" CreationDate="2010-10-04T10:51:53.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things that could help the shimmy, but there is no real silver bullet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically the shimmy is a function of head tube angle, top tube length and frame (specifically top and down tube) elasticity. Jobst Brandt describes it best in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; so I won't get into too much detail on the whys. There are a few things that reduce or negate the shimmy that have worked to varying degrees for myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Knees against the top tube. Squeeze the top tube with your knees. &#xA;2) Stem length. Sometimes a longer stem might help out. Very frame dependent and you would not want to change your fit imo. &#xA;3) Handlebar bag. Distribute some weight to the front and see if a handlebar bag can help overcome the gyroscopic forces created by the wheel.&#xA;4) Switching to a set of tyres w/ more 'tread' (ie. knobbies). I haven't tried this but the jobst brandt article indicates this could work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Kaitai is pretty unique in its long top tube, exceedingly short head tube and relatively steep head angle. This also makes the bike a 'tough fit' for the majority of people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T10:51:53.067" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1328" CreationDate="2010-10-04T11:12:31.947" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, no, I have not had any problems w/ carbon fibre mountain bikes. I am currently on my 5th such steed (Trek Fuel EX 9.8) and it is going quite well. My thumb ... not so well. But, that's besides the point. Of note ... I weigh 145 lbs and ride the bike for what it is meant. &#xA;I have seen many broken carbon frames. Like wise I have seen many broken aluminium frames as well. Typically when I see a broken frame it is caused by many of the same things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a)Riding a bike outside of its comfort range. If you have a 26&quot; carbon fibre hardtail, do not think it would work for jumps or all mountain riding. You will break it. Don't take your 4&quot; travel carbon race bike to the downhill course either. Use common sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b)Maintain your bike. Use a torque wrench and carbon prep. Check linkages. Keep it clean. Those who don't tend to see things (or miss things ...) break with greater frequency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scratch depth has alot to do with this. A simple scratch ... no, it doesn't render it useless. I have many scratches on many carbon bikes. I have paint chips etc... and they are still a-okay. What I would be aware of is a 'scratch' on the handlebar that could result in stress risers and eventual breakage. Again, this goes back to my points above concerning maintenance. Regular maintenance (of any bike) is key. &#xA;There are also advances in carbon that companies are indicating have created a much stronger frame. The following are two I am familiar with but I am SURE there are more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://origin.trekbikes.com/us/en/story/fuel_ex/technology&quot;&gt;http://origin.trekbikes.com/us/en/story/fuel_ex/technology&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cannondale has 'Ballistec Hi-Mod' carbon which I believe is supposed to be similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OCLV is just another way of 'laying up' carbon. I have had many OCLV bikes and have enjoyed them immensely. I am sure I would have enjoyed a monocoque frame or a mitred frame as well. In my mind it is the companies warranty that matters most. Will they stand behind you if the frame fails from reasonable riding? In my experience, yes, Trek will. But, I'm not here to push Trek. Buying a well known frame, with a strong warranty from a shop you know will go to bat for you is what I would recommend. &#xA;In regards to carbon lay up, yes, it does matter. The ability to strategically lay the carbon (or in terms of the new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bmc-racing.com/int-en/impec/&quot;&gt;BMC Impec&lt;/a&gt; weave the carbon) allows engineers to create strength where strength is needed and to remove weight were less material is necessary. It can be likened to the 'butting' of steel, aluminium and titanium frames. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the Trek angle throughout this but as the question regarded OCLV and I have experience with both, it was inevitable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T11:12:31.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1358" CreationDate="2010-10-04T14:21:25.820" Score="29" ViewCount="15242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read in several places that the carbon fiber has a shorter life span than the aluminium, and i was wondering just what would it be. &#xA;I am not referring to accident related failures of the frame. I would like to know how much would a frame hold for a road bike if i didn't have any accidents and road it almost daily for lets say 10 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere ( sorry cant find the link ) that carbon fiber frames will tend to crack after 4-5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T17:29:11.907" Title="Road bike carbon fiber frame life span" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1356" CreationDate="2010-10-04T14:47:04.483" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absent some kind of abuse or extraordinary stress (like falling on top of the bike while it's lying on the ground - stressing the tubes from the side, riding with a friend sitting on the top tube...) a carbon fiber frame should outlast the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lennard Zinn covered &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2002/12/technical-faq/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-carbon-forks-2_3270&quot;&gt;durability of Carbon Forks for Velo News&lt;/a&gt; a while back.  Here are some quotes from that article in case the link breaks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Kestrel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For carbon forks in&#xA;  general, there should not be any&#xA;  limited life span, as carbon&#xA;  composites themselves are not subject&#xA;  to fatigue failures as metals are. So&#xA;  the fatigue life of a properly made&#xA;  carbon composite is 'infinite'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Look&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is no limitation because carbon&#xA;  has a natural flexibility. It can be&#xA;  used a hundred years while maintaining&#xA;  the same stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Easton&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The good news is the fatigue life of&#xA;  carbon fiber is immensely more than&#xA;  that of metals. While the writer&#xA;  expresses concern about his carbon&#xA;  fork lasting as long as a metal&#xA;  component, there is nothing to worry&#xA;  about in terms of fatigue life on a&#xA;  composite fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having ridden since the early 80's I've been through this twice, once with aluminum frames and now with carbon fiber. As high end competition bikes were made of the materials there were questions of durability.  Over time, as the frames became widely available, those concerns were shown to be largely baseless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe most frame builders warranty carbon frames for life now. I personally know of at least two riders with carbon fiber bikes that have been ridden in excess of 100,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you should periodically inspect the frame for cracks and wear, especially at stress points like around the bottom bracket (just like you would with any frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-04T15:00:08.750" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T15:00:08.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1363" CreationDate="2010-10-04T20:00:01.487" Score="21" ViewCount="22093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a casual cycler, for recreation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a carerra kraken, MTB with front suspension and wide tyres. I use this for forrest trails and local back roads cycling (normally do a 15mile or 30 mile route once a month, all road with several inclines)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What benefits would a road bike give me for countryside cycling? I've never actually used one and wondering what I would &quot;get&quot; out of investing in one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T18:34:19.613" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T18:34:19.613" Title="what benefits does a road bike give over a regular mountain bike for casual cycling?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1372" CreationDate="2010-10-04T20:37:35.503" Score="18" ViewCount="4346" Body="&lt;p&gt;When mountain biking with my friends, we sometimes end up tackling a severe up hill over rocky ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually find I end up putting a foot down first. I'm not sure what's going wrong. Sometimes my back wheel spins and I lose power and stop, or my front wheel lifts up and I somehow lose balance and end up going off to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What techniques can I use to get further up hill before I lose it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T14:16:54.450" Title="How do I cycle up steep rocky ground?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-04T20:45:44.500" Score="20" ViewCount="11848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I occasionally commute a 50miles round trip and by the end of it, things are usually not feeling very good down below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a couple of different saddles, but they both gave me problems. One chaffed my inner thigh, and the other one seemed to not do my privates any good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what tips have you got for getting comfy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="472" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T15:39:16.973" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T17:08:00.093" Title="How can bum / testicle / inner thigh pain from a saddle be prevented?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-04T20:47:58.870" Score="13" ViewCount="10905" Body="&lt;p&gt;the bearings in my DT Swiss 240 hub appear to be shot, I have the toolkit for and am used to maintaining Chris King hubs but I wonder if I have to get special proprietary tools for the DT hubs as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="559" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T22:23:22.650" Title="do DT Swiss 240 hubs need proprietary tools to maintain them?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1359" CreationDate="2010-10-04T20:54:56.523" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a road bike gives you better efficiency so you can go further with less energy and do it quicker. This is because they are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lighter - Less mass to get up to speed and keep moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More rigid - less flex, so the bike itself absorbs less pedal energy, meaning when you pedal, more of that energy is used to propel you forwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less suspension, as suspension on a mountain bike works by moving oil/air around, and that warms up - you're providing the energy to warm the suspension up instead of moving forwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have higher gears, so you can go further for one revolution of the pedals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have thinner tires - For less contact and friction with the road that would slow you down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have higher pressure tires - So they squish less and don't use up energy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get you in a more aerodynamic position so you incur less wind resistance. But, this might mean you feel less comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fun from choosing one and getting bling'ed up with a new shiny bike you can show off and take pride in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The buzz/addiction for cycling more and wanting to go on longer rides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability to keep up with other road cyclists who you can be buddies with, especially if you join a cycling club.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fitter because you cycle more so you live longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A strange desire to wear lycra which will show off your body better and may attract the opposite sex, and you might end up with a better sex life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T20:54:56.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2010-10-04T21:12:32.960" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;get a good pair of padded bike shorts. I resisted for years, but after I got my first pair, it made a huge difference in comfort. You want the padding on your butt, not the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T21:12:32.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2010-10-04T21:14:22.803" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, do you have cycling shorts w/ a chamois? If not, I would highly recommend them. As a note, they are your underwear (ex: do not wear undergarments and then put on the shorts). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, how did you choose your saddle? Was it fitted through some type of measurement system ala bontragers inform system or specializeds BG system? How much did you spend on the saddle and was it appropriate for the style of riding you are partaking in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, does your bicycle fit you properly? Have you had it fitted? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, there are a few points that you could answer to give me some help. I cannot recommend a saddle because everyone is different but I can recommend a brand that provides some type of measurement system for choosing your saddle. &#xA;As well, if you are wearing cycling shorts a nice &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pacelineproducts.com/Category.aspx?MenuElementID=56&amp;amp;FileName=Chamois_Butt_r&quot;&gt;chamois butter&lt;/a&gt; might help with the chafing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T21:14:22.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1360" CreationDate="2010-10-04T22:02:19.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is about fore and aft weight distribution. Also means you generally won't be sitting. When your rear wheel spins, you have too much weight distributed forward. And when your front wheel lifts, too much in the rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What to do? Find a hill and practice distributing your weight until you find the sweet spot where you are neither spinning the rear or lifting the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there's always the cyclo-cross technique where you pick up your bike and run up the hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T22:02:19.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1359" CreationDate="2010-10-04T22:24:37.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;casual&lt;/strong&gt; cycling I don’t see the benefit of a road bike if you already have a mountain bike &lt;strong&gt;you like&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to go a bit faster on roads you could change your tyres, also replacing you suspension forks with normal forks could be an option.   Your suspension fork may have some way to “lock out” the suspension if you are lackey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was only cycling one a month, I would rather than have one well look after bike then two bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T22:24:37.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2010-10-04T23:28:04.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always use some chamois cream.  This goes a long way towards preventing saddle sores.  I won't start a debate on what is best but you can speak to your LBS to find something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also agree with the other comments on good cycling shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T23:28:04.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1360" CreationDate="2010-10-04T23:31:01.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned the balance (front/back) is key, but there are a few other things that help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full suspension - the rear suspension limits wheel bounce when going over obstacles, this helps to prevent the rear wheel spinning out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduced tyre pressure - same concept as above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bigger wheels - I have found climbing rocky stuff easier on my 29er than on my 26er&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T23:31:01.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1360" CreationDate="2010-10-04T23:44:38.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The back wheel is spinning because there's not enough weight towards the back of the bike because you are not sitting on the seat.  A technique that works well for me is to hold the handle bars in such a way that your elbows are pointed down towards the ground. This makes sure you stay low and puts pressure on the back wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, don't forget to KEEP PEDALING! ;) If you trust in yourself and don't stop pedaling, you can sometimes recover from a back wheel spin or even a dead stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="561" LastEditorUserId="561" LastEditDate="2010-10-05T14:16:54.450" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T14:16:54.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1359" CreationDate="2010-10-04T23:48:31.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a mountain biker, and sometimes take the mountain bike for a longish road ride.  What becomes clear is that the mountain bike's geometry is not designed for comfortable riding for more than a few hours straight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 20 miles or so my back starts to hurt and I desperately wish I could lean down and do that &quot;resting on the handle bars&quot; pose that you see road riders doing.  (I've tried, and it doesn't really work on a mountain bike ;) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="561" LastActivityDate="2010-10-04T23:48:31.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1360" CreationDate="2010-10-05T00:13:53.657" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight distribution&lt;/strong&gt; is critical, and it is a bit of a fine balance, much like doing a track stand. I find that it is easiest to do this by staying seated and crouching towards the front of the bike. Standing on the pedals will tend to put your weight too far forward and make it difficult to achieve smooth power transfer to the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smooth Power Transfer&lt;/strong&gt; is another important aspect. Remember that your rear wheel only has a small amount of friction keeping it from slipping. What you are trying to do is keep the pressure on the pedals strong enough to keep you going up the hill, but not so strong as to make the wheel spin. Things that can help with this are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Staying in a seated position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concentrating on pedalling in smooth circles, rather than a in separate pushes from each foot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using as high a gear as you can manage while still maintaining a reasonable cadence. If you are using your lowest granny gear, it is much easier for your legs to overpower the friction between the tyre and the ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Balance&lt;/strong&gt;, working on your low speed balance by practicing track stands and the like will mean that you are less likely to need to put a foot down, and more likely to be able to recover from a brief &quot;halt&quot; in your progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T00:13:53.657" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1359" CreationDate="2010-10-05T03:17:49.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from increased speed on pavement, the main comfort-oriented benefit to a road bike is drop handlebars. You get a ton of places to put your hands, at the cost of &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; decreased control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can help make your mountain bike more comfortable by adding &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1195/different-kinds-of-handlebars/1206#1206&quot;&gt;bar ends&lt;/a&gt; (see the second picture on that link) to your flat bars and try that for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option, it an expensive one, is to get a recumbent bicycle. These are the ultimate in comfortable cycling. They are quite expensive, but you cycle in a normal, chair-like saddle. Despite having a reputation for not climbing hills as well, recumbent are fast. Very, very fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T03:17:49.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2010-10-05T06:12:18.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing is that it is highly worthwhile investing in a good track pump (known as floor pump elsewhere in the world). Here in Australia you can get a reasonable one for around 70-80 AUD. With a track pump it takes only a minute or two to top up the tyres and check their pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastEditorUserId="25419" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T03:22:11.493" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T03:22:11.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2010-10-05T06:25:50.863" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there is a clear difference between when you can &lt;em&gt;legally&lt;/em&gt; use pedestrian facilities and when you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; use pedestrian facilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in Australia, you can only legally use pedestrian facilities such as footpaths (sidewalks for all the USians out there) when you are a minor (under 18), accompanying a minor or if it is marked as a shared path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think that cyclists &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; use pedestrian facilities when they feel that using the road is beyond the level of risk that they are comfortable with accepting. Having made the decision to use the pedestrian facilities and potentially be breaking the law, it is then the cyclists responsibility to make sure that they are not increasing the risk for pedestrians. For me this includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assessing whether you can safely ride on the pedestrian facility, or whether you should dismount and push the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adopting a speed that is safe - typically walking pace. This speed should be sufficiently slow that you can see and avoid collisions with pedestrians.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Being aware of and riding at a safe distance from areas from which pedestrians may suddenly appear, e.g. shop doors, front gates, parked cars, buses at bus stops, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as others have mentioned, consider the impact of your actions on the opinions of other road users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T06:25:50.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-05T06:38:00.273" Score="21" ViewCount="5915" Body="&lt;p&gt;Between my girlfriend and myself, we have 5 bikes of which 3 would ideally be stored inside (the two road bikes and my duallie). However, my house is a relatively small terrace house which doesn't have huge spare rooms on the ground floor for bike storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best storage solution you've seen for keeping the bikes inside that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is compact and keeps the bikes relatively out of the way,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allows the bikes to be easily accessed for going on rides,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preferrably doesn't involve permanent fixtures on the wall, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looks good?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T21:31:01.557" Title="How to store bikes inside a house or unit with limited internal space?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2010-10-05T06:55:23.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't feel up to wearing just lycra, or if your commute doesn't have change facilities at the other end, then you can wear your bike shorts under your trousers as underwear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers even make bike shorts that are designed to be worn as underwear. These shorts are typically made from a more breathable &quot;mesh&quot; fabric so that you don't get to hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T06:55:23.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2010-10-05T07:33:26.937" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to add this - though will probably get mauled for it... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride a recumbent (-:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, I accept that this is probably not a practical answer to the problem - its also the case that recumbents have their own issues with being in the seat for extended periods of time (e.g. numb bums) but in terms of comfort overall I know which I'd rather cover 50 miles on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T07:33:26.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1395" CreationDate="2010-10-05T10:18:04.720" Score="15" ViewCount="4093" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend has recently bought her first road bike. While the frame size is pretty much spot on and comfortable for her, she finds that the brakes are difficult to use and she ends up with pain in her hands after longer rides. I think the issue arises because when she has the top of the hood in between her thumb and forefinger, her fingers only just reach the levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else encountered this problem, and what have you done to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T16:39:19.457" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T21:13:49.950" Title="How do you adjust the set-up of road bike brakes for women with small hands" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1360" CreationDate="2010-10-05T10:52:43.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience on slippery roots with hard MTB, it is critical to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lift your weight from the wheel hitting the obstacle (that's what full suspension does for you), like you (should) do when hitting the curb,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;have appropriate tires (not just tire pressure),&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...except for already mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;smooth pedaling,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;weight distribution (low center weight),&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;balance (sideways).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T10:52:43.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1389" CreationDate="2010-10-05T11:59:06.400" Score="12" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started really getting into mountain biking over the past few months and I'm keen to carry on riding through winter, preferably after work as well as at the weekends. To do this I'm going to need some good off-road lights. So, I have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly what should I look for when buying off-road lights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly can anyone recommend some good lights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I opted for a budget MagicShine light, which I can recommend. It's very cheap, they cost between £50-£100. For the price you get a very powerful light but there are some sacrifices. The model I bought is advertised at 900 lumens, but the reviews I read suggest that the output is closer to 700. The light is attached to the handlebar using a rubber band, which seems to be okay so far, but there could be problems on rougher terrain. However managed to get hold of a separate handlebar mount for £2 which should make it most secure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T21:46:21.260" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T09:12:48.263" Title="Off road lights" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2010-10-05T12:01:02.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing, if you have sore or rawness from your commute - try this - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buttpaste.com/BLButtPaste.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.buttpaste.com/BLButtPaste.php&lt;/a&gt; - best stuff I've ever used to help relieve pain and heal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, padded cycling shorts are a must.  I am a very large man, so for me this is the only place I can find gear in my size - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aerotechdesigns.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aerotechdesigns.com&lt;/a&gt;  Also, DON'T wear underwear with bike shorts.  They will bind up and hinder moisture removal.  Bike shorts will keep you dryer and more comfortable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T12:01:02.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1385" CreationDate="2010-10-05T12:50:49.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exposurelights.com/product/000053/toro-mk.2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Exposure Toro&lt;/a&gt; (with rear red light, which runs off the main front lamp). It has 3 settings: bright, brighter and &quot;wooo, that is &lt;strong&gt;bright&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. It claims 24 hours on the lowest setting and I have no cause to doubt it, although a little lower with the rear light attached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do some mixed terrain cycling in the winter (towpaths along the river, a bit of unlit parks as well as road) and the Toro is a perfectly capable device for this. You can helmet mount it, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's definitely a light for seeing with, not just for being seen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T12:50:49.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2010-10-05T12:51:13.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be that you need to change your riding position. The more your weight is on your hands and feet rather than your saddle, the less wear and tear you'll get on your saddle regions. Obviously there's a balance to be struck since putting too much weight up front is going to tire your arms out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what kind of bike you're riding, but some change in the handlebar setup that puts your centre of gravity further forward might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T12:51:13.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1385" CreationDate="2010-10-05T13:06:05.273" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few terms bandied about that have significance. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Watts&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumen_%28unit%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lumens&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Candela&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Candlepower (Candela)&lt;/a&gt;. In my experience lumens has the most significance in that it typically reveals, generally speaking, how bright the light is going to be. What it doesn't refer to is what type of beam pattern it will have, how bright it will be at the centre as compared to the edge and so on and so forth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to get to the question at hand. What should you look for? Personally I set a 300 Lumen minimum for trail riding at night. Yes, some could argue you could go lower but I like to go semi-fast and find that is the barrier (for myself ... terrible eyesight I guess). For in city use I have a nice little &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.niterider.com/prod_minmini.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;minewt mini usb (niterider)&lt;/a&gt; which has a claimed 110+ lumens and I find it absolutely fantastic for in city use (and rail trail, slow speed trail riding). It also works great as a back up/secondary/get to trail/oh crap my main light died light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bulb type is up for debate but the general trend was Halogen (old) to HID (newer) to LED (newest). LED seems to be taking the lead with some larger companies (such as Niteride and Light &amp;amp; Motion) offering mostly LED systems. LED systems create less heat, are less finicky and you can change your own bulbs so ... I'm partial to LED. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize that section. 300+ watts (my recommendation) and LED for trail riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brands? I have had great luck w/ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelightingsystem.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Light &amp;amp; Motion&lt;/a&gt; (have a SECA 700 on the way) and Nite Rider. In Canada I have had some warranty issues w/ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.niterider.com/index.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nite Rider&lt;/a&gt; but ... that was a while ago so I'll let bygones be bygones. Plus, I love the Minewt I mentioned above. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ayup-lights.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ayup&lt;/a&gt; are quite nice as well I hear. And there are much much more. &#xA;Models? Well like I said I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelightingsystem.com/seca700.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seca 700&lt;/a&gt; on the way and the aforementioned Minewt that I love. If you are into spending the dough, Niterider has a line of lights that you can customize the beam pattern and brightness from your computer. I don't have experience with that, it seems awfully expensive and complicated but ... at the same time ... awesome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of note, MTBR has a neat &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/trailbeamcomparisoncrx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lights Shoot out review&lt;/a&gt; that shows actual trail beam comparison. It's from 2009 but I thought it was really cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hope this helps. Sorry for the on and on nature of the reply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T13:06:05.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1385" CreationDate="2010-10-05T14:59:25.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only ride on the street, but I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.niterider.com/prod_minmini.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nite Rider MiNewt&lt;/a&gt; on my helmet, which gives great visibility of the road ahead.  For off-road riding you will want significantly more light, but I still think having a light on your helmet that follows where you look is quite useful.  Couple something like the MiNewt with a 500 or more lumen bar light and you'll be in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're handy, you could also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/High-power-LED-bike-head-light-with-integrated-hea/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;build your own light&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T14:59:25.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1385" CreationDate="2010-10-05T15:01:30.533" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as getting a powerful set of front lights on your bike, get yourself a good &lt;strong&gt;head torch&lt;/strong&gt; (or helmet light).   You wish to light what you are trying to look at that may not be in the same direction your front wheel is pointing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining two front lights so you have a wide beam and a long beam can work well.  By using two lights you have a backup when one of them fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head torch will also come in very useful if you have to do any repairs at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T08:01:07.953" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T08:01:07.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1385" CreationDate="2010-10-05T15:07:06.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine just did a &lt;a href=&quot;http://flagpedals.blogspot.com/2010/08/lupine-betty-7-bicycle-lighting-system.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;review&lt;/a&gt; of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lupine.de/web/en/products/helmetlights/betty/7/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lupine Betty 7&lt;/a&gt;.  The light turned night into day.  It's a 1750 lumen max, but can be adjusted in 5% power increments.  It also has a rechargeable battery with plenty of run-time, even at max.  I would say that this light is comparable to one of the headlights on my '07 Civic.  If you want to feel like you're riding in the day, and money isn't an object, go for the Betty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T15:07:06.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1382" CreationDate="2010-10-05T15:34:47.857" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano and other companies make women's specific shifter/brake levers that are designed for small hands.  These tend to come on women's specific bikes, but any reasonable bike shop should be able to special order a pair.  While moving the lever itself may help her reach the brake when she's in the drops, it's never going to reduce the distance from the hood, so you really &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; need new shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T15:34:47.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1382" CreationDate="2010-10-05T16:19:15.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the problem is that the levers are too far out from the bars, that may be fixable. Some brake levers come with small rubber inserts that you can use to reduce the distance to the levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T16:19:15.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1396" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-05T17:20:18.253" Score="16" ViewCount="1228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do some mountain biking in remote parts of wales. I usually carry a minimal tool kit: pump, spare inner tube, and multi tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if you have any temporary 'get me home' repair tips I might need one day for when something breaks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T22:24:56.680" Title="What tips do you have for making temporary &quot;get me home&quot; repairs?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-06T00:42:09.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-10-05T17:35:15.647" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should also have a survival bag, mobile phone, whistle, torch and small first aid kit as well as a map and compass.  &lt;strong&gt;Remember it may be you that is broken not your bike!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-10-05T21:59:08.300" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T21:59:08.300" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-06T00:42:09.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2010-10-05T17:39:40.333" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing that causes saddle sores is friction.  Moisture contributes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling shorts are probably a good idea, but if you don't want to wear cycling shorts (I don't for commuting, but my longest commute is half the distance of yours), there's three key things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A properly fitting saddle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In particular, there's a lot of problems with people wanting too &lt;em&gt;wide&lt;/em&gt; and too &lt;em&gt;soft&lt;/em&gt; a saddle, which tends to squeeze up into the more delicate areas you want to protect and to rub against the skin there more, making things worse. In other words, go with a smaller, harder saddle than you intuitively think you might need.  Don't go for a totally hard saddle unless you'll always be wearing padded shorts, but you only need a very little padding, as your body already provides some padding if you're properly seated on your sit bones. Basically, the back part of the saddle should support you via your sit bones, and the front part should make it easy to keep the sit bones there. Problems with your privates are likely due to pressure on the perineum; proper saddle angle will help immensely with that, and you may find that a saddle with a cutout in that area will help. Many people swear by leather saddles, such as Brooks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smooth underwear, preferably that doesn't hold onto moisture.  This is half of what good bike shorts do, but if you pick underwear that doesn't have seams in the areas affected by friction and is fairly slippery, that can help a lot.  You could even wear bike shorts (with or without a pad/chamois) as your underwear. A material like some of the new breathable polyesters will probably be better than, say cotton.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricate. There's products (&quot;chamois butter&quot;) made specifically for it, but some simple skin moisturizer or petroleum jelly is something you might already have in the house that will help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T17:39:40.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1376" CreationDate="2010-10-05T18:28:12.447" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Friends of mine use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000ACAM38&quot;&gt;Two-Bike Gravity Stand&lt;/a&gt;, and are really happy with it.  It doesn't require any modifications to your apartment, and does a pretty good job at keeping the bikes out of the way.  For myself, I installed a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001ENZFGQ&quot;&gt;pulley system&lt;/a&gt;, but that does involve drilling in the ceiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T18:28:12.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-10-05T18:48:27.603" Score="10" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I recommend carrying also a patch kit - something that will help you fix that second flat, or the tube you replaced badly.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always carry lights, you never know when you'll take longer than you expect and be stuck in the dark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a friend with a car and a bike rack, for the really extreme issues :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T18:48:27.603" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-06T00:42:09.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-10-05T18:51:18.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best 'repair' I saw that got our group home was when a guy snapped off his headtube. We grabbed some sticks and jammed them down the tubes and got to the car (1 hour away) so carry big sticks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-10-05T21:48:01.057" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T21:48:01.057" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-06T00:42:09.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14" CreationDate="2010-10-05T19:04:52.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain may not appear worn - but check to see if it's stretched. Check &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/874/problem-with-chain-skipping-but-not-trying-to-shift/875#875&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt; with a quick way to measure your chain to see if it's stretched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T19:04:52.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1362" CreationDate="2010-10-05T20:35:33.377" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the bearings you do need the tools. The hub is advertised as a tool-free maintenance hub, but that's only for light work. Check this post out on bikeradar.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I recently e-mailed DT-Swiss on this&#xA;  topic and here's the conversation -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Me - &quot;This one has been mentioned by a&#xA;  couple of people - you advertise a &quot;No&#xA;  tool concept&quot; and a &quot;No tool&#xA;  maintenance concept&quot; while in actual&#xA;  fact only the drive mechanism is&#xA;  serviceable without tools and the rest&#xA;  of the hub requires expensive special&#xA;  tools. I've tried to explain before&#xA;  that bearing replacement probably&#xA;  falls outside of &quot;maintenance&quot; and&#xA;  enters the &quot;overhaul&quot; category but the&#xA;  quote &quot;No tool concept&quot; has being&#xA;  thought misleading. What answer do you&#xA;  have?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Them - &quot;I've fielded many questions&#xA;  about the no tools concept too. It&#xA;  simply means that you do not need any&#xA;  special tools to perform normal&#xA;  maintenance such as ratchet cleaning&#xA;  and re-greasing. This should be done 1&#xA;  to 3 times (on average) a year,&#xA;  depending on your riding conditions.&#xA;  This is a 5 min procedure, even for&#xA;  the inexperienced. When you open up&#xA;  our tech manuals, the first picture&#xA;  you see is of a tool set, which looks&#xA;  scary and complicated. I can see how&#xA;  this seems misleading. The tools are&#xA;  required for more in-depth work such&#xA;  as bearing replacements. Want&#xA;  cartridge bearings? Then you need&#xA;  tools to install them. If tools were&#xA;  not part of the equation, then your&#xA;  bearing would simply fall out and the&#xA;  hub would be chronically loose. Show&#xA;  me a hub of any quality that does not&#xA;  require tools for complete&#xA;  tear-downs.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tools are pretty expensive though.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001CK0S22&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/DT-Swiss-DT-240-440-FR-front/dp/B001CK0S22&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to drop at the local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-10-09T01:37:28.403" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T01:37:28.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1013" CreationDate="2010-10-05T20:59:02.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what kind of cycling you do. But, a mountain biker mentioned to me that more suspension is appreciated more as you get older.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some seat post suspension might help. The reviews for this are great, but it's a bit pricey:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/seat-post-seat-pin/product/thudbuster-lt-10308&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/seat-post-seat-pin/product/thudbuster-lt-10308&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T20:59:02.640" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-05T20:59:02.640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="64" CreationDate="2010-10-05T21:00:57.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran into this issue a couple of seasons ago.  It took a combination of three things to make my problem go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)  I wear custom-made orthotics for running and walking.  I had new casts done and new orthotics made.  (The type I use breaks down/wears out after a couple of years)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  On the recommendation of my podiatrist I loosened the laces/straps on my cycling shoes.  I try to keep them barely snug enough to prevent my foot from sliding around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)  I lowered my saddle about 1/4&quot;.  My saddle position was set by a fit kit at my LBS years ago.  I never messed with it.  But, you are supposed to used that initial fit and make small adjustments from there.  The slightly lower saddle position also helped reduce the occurrence of sore knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T21:00:57.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="505" CreationDate="2010-10-05T21:07:15.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that higher volume tires work better with lower pressure, but for what it's worth, you'd be better off trying it on the trail and seeing for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T21:07:15.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-10-05T21:09:50.980" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always carry a bit of electricians tape or duct tape.  I have done several impromptu repairs using the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best one was a time where I ripped open the sidewall of the tire about 6&quot; long.  I wrapped the replacement tube with tape going from about 4&quot; before the ruined sidewall to about 4&quot; after the rip.  Was able to pump up the tire enough to roll 5 miles home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-07T04:03:04.337" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T04:03:04.337" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-06T00:42:09.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1376" CreationDate="2010-10-05T21:31:01.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1221/diy-wooden-bike-rack-looking-for-plans/1229#1229&quot;&gt;posted&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1221/diy-wooden-bike-rack-looking-for-plans/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question, my roomy and I have a pretty similar problem.  Our solution does require poking holes in the wall (8 I believe for our bikes) with drywall screws, but this is easily fixed with some white wood putty (from Home Depot or similar) when you're ready to move out.  Because we both ride year-round (including snow and rain days), we also lined the wall and floor with plastic to keep the dripping encased.  We now have 6 bikes (5 on the wall and a big-dummy under the breakfast bar), and have no indications of any problems after about a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k4Z98.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is basically a 2x4 screwed to the wall, with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5/R-202305571/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10051&amp;amp;catalogId=10053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hooks&lt;/a&gt; placed into it at a 45 degree angle.  Basically the wheel at the top is in contact with both the hook and the wall, and the bottom wheel is touching the wall.  Alternating hanging the bikes by the front and rear wheel means you can put the hooks closer together, and put more in the same space.  It is a very strong design, able to hold a couple of 40+ lbs bikes (&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pugsley_complete/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pugsley&lt;/a&gt;) and 3 other bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of hooks may vary.  For example, I have a large one for my &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pugsley_complete/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pugsley&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rke0h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic we used is also very cheap.  I think it was ~15$ for 100 feet of the stuff.  We plan to replace the plastic once it gets dirty, and I estimate the sheet we have will last 4-5 years.  We also used patches of duck-tape where the tires hit the plastic in order to prevent the tires from wearing through too quickly (especially important for the bikes with studded tires).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most expensive part of the build was the hooks, the most expensive of which were ~15$ (going from memory).  I'd estimate the whole build can be done for ~100$ for 5 bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2010-10-05T21:31:01.557" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-10-06T00:43:12.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelsmfg.com/content/view/694/27/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Multi tool w/ a replaceable derailleur hanger&lt;/a&gt; as part of it. Or just a universal derailleur hanger. Pretty nice. Mind you, if you are touring you might as well carry your proper hanger as a 'just in case'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a phillips head screw driver can save you. I have snapped the head of the front shifter cable mid way through a 160km point to point ride ... I just dialed in the limit screws and blocked the gear in. Same can be done for the rear derailleur to get you home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeTmy6N_VQA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quicklink or power link&lt;/a&gt; is exceptionally useful to have on a ride. You can fix a broken chain enough to simply get home or if it was just a tweaked link, replace it, and have a fully functioning geared bike to ride home (or continue on your ride). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mountain biking a spoke key can be essential. Break a spoke? Over tension the two opposing spokes to even it out. You can wrap the broken spoke around its nearest or, if you have tape, tape it to the other spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend has stuffed a tyre full of grass (seriously) enough to ride the trails home. It did ferment a bit inside and was fairly odiferous after but it worked really well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T00:43:12.293" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-06T00:43:12.293" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-10-06T01:31:47.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;About to years ago, I had a brand-new Trail Rat battery die on me in the middle of a ride. Luckily, I had a maglite on me as a backup, and I rigged this up: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8xUzw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rigging&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2258773219/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;photo credit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's twine and zipties holding it onto the bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few miles later, the maglite died. I rode in the taillight of the guy I was riding with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it started hailing. We had no experience riding on slush so we called for help. (I've since ridden on ice, but I was young and not yet stubborn enough to tough it out.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days, when I'm on tour, I bring along those lamps you put on your head on a strap. I use them as reading lights in my tent, but they also serve as backup headlights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T01:31:47.077" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-06T01:31:47.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1412" CreationDate="2010-10-06T02:29:50.780" Score="8" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a source to purchase large-sized bicycle gear.  I'm having a hard time finding all sorts of gear.  I've been looking for padded mountain bike shorts, but can't find anything that would fit a 52&quot;-ish waist.  3XL gloves, 4XLT shorts and shirts, are all things I'm looking to find.  I'm riding ~30 miles per day, so I'm looking to add comfort as my daily mileage continues to rise (shooting for 40 miles per day).  Rain and/or winter gear is a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What stores stock larger-than-normal cycling gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-06T02:50:17.440" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T03:22:30.317" Title="Online stores which stock larger cycling gear?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-07T03:56:26.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1411" CreationDate="2010-10-06T03:22:30.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aerotechdesigns.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aero Tech Designs&lt;/a&gt;. They have shorts, jerseys, outerwear and liners and go up to 6XL in many items and styles.  The have large gloves as well (under accessories).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a guy who fluctuates between XL and XXL one recommendation I want to make is that you consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aerotechdesigns.com/bibshort.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bib shorts&lt;/a&gt;.  You can wear them under any kind of shorts if you don't want the lycra look. The primary advantage of bib shorts is that everything stays in place, rather than shifting, or in my case the waist band rolling down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T03:22:30.317" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-07T03:56:26.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14" CreationDate="2010-10-06T06:24:53.013" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, a number of the other responses have captured some of the possibilities here. The possible causes and fixes I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Worn Cassette&lt;/strong&gt;, which is also usually associated with a worn chain. If this is the issue there are two key indicators that you will see. The first is that the gap between the teeth on the sprockets will look less like a &quot;U&quot; and more like a &quot;V&quot;. The second is that the chain will measure more than 12.7mm between each rivet. Sheldon Brown has more information on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. If this is the case, then the cure is to replace the cassette and the chain, and quite possibly the chain rings as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bent Derailleur Hanger&lt;/strong&gt;. When viewed from behind, the derailleur cage (with the two jockey wheels the chain runs over) should be vertical. If it isn't, you'll need to either bend the derailleur hanger (carefully) to the correct alignment, or replace the derailleur hanger (if it is replaceable). I wouldn't try bending the hanger myself - I'd take it to a bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Friction in the Gear Shift Cables&lt;/strong&gt;. A bit difficult to tell if this is the issue, but realtively easy to fix. A temporary fix involves putting chain lube on the points where the cable enters and exits the cable outers and changing the gears around a bit. A better solution is to remove the cable from the outers, wash it with degreaser, clean and dry it, then re-fit it to the bike. If the end of the cable is worn, it can be difficult to re-fit it. New cables are pretty cheap, so you may consider replacing the inners and outers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weak Derailleur Spring&lt;/strong&gt;. Unless you have a fairly expensive deraileur, you can't replace the derailleur spring. You can stave off the inevitable for a bit by cleaning and lubricating the derailleur, but ultimately this means it is time to get a new derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T06:24:53.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1419" CreationDate="2010-10-06T09:08:34.100" Score="22" ViewCount="24913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an old school puncture repair kit, the type with glue and patches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as the sandpaper, patches, 'vulcanizing fluid' and instructions, there is a 2.5cm long, 3mm wide, beige rubber tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's it for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(it doesn't seem to appear in the pictorial instructions) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastActivityDate="2018-05-19T12:47:26.477" Title="What's the rubber tube in my puncture repair kit for?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2010-10-06T09:53:15.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like extra material for the type of valves that aren't &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presta_valve&quot;&gt;Presta&lt;/a&gt;- and not &quot;car-like&quot;- (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve&quot;&gt;Schrader&lt;/a&gt;) either - &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunlop_valve&quot;&gt;Dunlop valves&lt;/a&gt;. They use a short piece of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ralson.com/products/medium-r6208_1.gif&quot;&gt;rubber tube to seal&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="506" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T09:53:15.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2010-10-06T10:59:19.187" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are for old &quot;Dunlop&quot; or &quot;Woods&quot; valves, that were halfway in size between a presta &amp;amp; schrader valve.  Just inside the cap (that you could screw off) was the rubber tube that acted as the valve.  If it split or broke (usually when the rubber perished) you could replace it and be on your way again.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;We have Dunlop valves described in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1417#1417&quot; title=&quot;Terminology Index&quot;&gt;Terminology Index&lt;/a&gt;, and you can find more out at &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunlop_valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Dunlop Valves&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T11:33:07.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-10-06T11:24:29.167" Score="21" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Dunlop Valve&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;aka Woods valve or English valve&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dunlop valve is an older style valve that is no longer commonly found in the english speaking world. It is still commonly found in Japan and the Netherlands on non-speciality bicycles. The advantage of a Dunlop valve is that it is very easy to manufacture. The main pressure control mechanism is a simple rubber tube called a &quot;plug&quot; or &quot;worm&quot; that can be easily replaced. However, the rubber plugs also quickly degrade and this can be a cause of frustration for users. Recent Dunlop valves in Japan come with mechanical springs rather than plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pump designed for a Presta valve can be used to fill a tube with a Dunlop valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5L2Hr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dunlop Valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunlop_valve&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dunlop valve (Wikipedia).&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/283#283&quot;&gt;Presta valve&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/284#284&quot;&gt;Schrader valve&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1414/whats-the-rubber-tube-in-my-puncture-repair-kit-for/1416#1416&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T16:53:42.147" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-06T11:24:29.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2010-10-06T14:15:27.393" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the Dunlop valve, it was used a lot in Holland, UK, etc. &#xA;You can see it in action here:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IoprW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dunlop&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d0/Dunlopventiel.jpg&quot; width=&quot;250&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But currently it is replace by the Blitz:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCvRh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.390" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T14:23:28.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-10-06T14:30:47.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When everything else fails:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hybrid MTB/hike shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/13883.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MTB shoe&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T14:30:47.187" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-06T14:30:47.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20" CreationDate="2010-10-06T14:46:03.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My MTB region (Belgium / Holland) has a lot of mud. Disc brakes seem less capable of handling these wet and muddy conditions. They simply cannot handle mud, and start making noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EmgUD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mud&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m56qe.jpg&quot; width=&quot;250&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So most people here use V-brakes or the hydrolic version: Magura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zSjU7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen front wheel: disc brake (does not get as much mud), rear wheel: Magura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2018-12-30T21:44:02.580" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T21:44:02.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-10-06T18:18:39.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.movescount.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;movescount&lt;/a&gt; to sync with my suunto T6 watch, witch recods the data from my bike ( distance, cadence and GPS )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T18:18:39.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="990" CreationDate="2010-10-06T18:34:32.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;on youtube you will find quite a few video tutorials on how to do a track stand &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/gj96L3yD4z0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T18:00:57.930" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:00:57.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2010-10-06T22:10:41.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a Calgary rider, too (15km each way). The best thing I can recommend is to get a set of Armadillo Crossroads - they've got some traction, and I use them year round (until the ice builds up and I get out the studded tires). And they have kevlar threads so are pretty rugged and puncture resistant. They're slick enough to not provide much rolling resisitance. Makes a HUGE difference while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T22:10:41.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="186" CreationDate="2010-10-06T22:19:20.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the other responses, the main tool you need is a spoke wrench. You can use the frame itself as a truing stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to note are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Deflate the tyre before performing the re-truing. If you don't do this, you can end up drilling a hole through the rim tape with your spoke nipple.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look at the way the other spokes are laced to get the lacing of your new spokes correct.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider buying a few extra spokes from your local bike store when you get the replacements. I find that once a wheel reaches the stage where a spoke or two breaks, it is common for a few other spokes to break not long after.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T22:19:20.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1427" CreationDate="2010-10-06T23:18:29.143" Score="68" ViewCount="111100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed a wobble in my back wheel while commuting in this morning. Broken spoke. Is this a problem that I should take care of before my 7 mile commute home, or can I pick up a spoke and repair it at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="553" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T15:28:43.850" Title="Can I ride home with a broken spoke?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2010-10-06T23:31:23.773" Score="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can ride home with a broken spoke. I'd probably unscrew the spoke from the nipple before doing so, so that it doesn't wobble around and get caught in other bits of the bike. Bike wheels are wonderful things that can easily put up with having a few spokes missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-06T23:31:23.773" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1434" CreationDate="2010-10-07T02:02:47.140" Score="20" ViewCount="5103" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of maintenance should I do before putting my bike into storage for the winter?  Are there any special considerations for storing it?  Does temperature matter?  If it's hanging on the wall from the rim all winter long, will that affect the shape of my rims?  Any other winter storage advice would be nice to hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T18:34:07.080" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T23:30:19.217" Title="Winter maintenance before putting bike in winter storage?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2010-10-07T05:10:13.100" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can even ride home with &lt;em&gt;several&lt;/em&gt; broken spokes ; )   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not exactly great for your wheels but if you take it easy (no jumps!) they'll be fine.  I have done this many times without any permanent damage to my wheels.  But do take Deemar's advice about unscrewing the spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastEditorUserId="568" LastEditDate="2010-10-07T05:24:02.480" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T05:24:02.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1433" CreationDate="2010-10-07T05:22:36.837" Score="20" ViewCount="2436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience or references on when it is ok to start putting a child in a bike child seat/carrier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware that our child will need some extra neck strength to not bobble around too much with the added weight of having a helmet on his head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastEditorUserId="568" LastEditDate="2010-11-03T22:52:53.497" LastActivityDate="2020-04-13T06:55:58.407" Title="At what age/stage should my child be at before I start using a child seat?" Tags="&lt;children&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1432" CreationDate="2010-10-07T05:35:50.020" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/little1s.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute&lt;/a&gt;, the US Consumer Product Safety Commission and the American Academy of Pediatrics agree that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...children under 1 year of age should not be on bicycles. Children are just learning to sit unsupported at about 9 months of age. Until this age, infants have not developed sufficient bone mass and muscle tone to enable them to sit unsupported with their backs straight. Pediatricians advise against having infants sitting in a slumped or curled position for prolonged periods. This position may even be exacerbated by the added weight of a bicycle helmet on the infant’s head.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some US jurisdictions it is illegal for children under the age of 1 to be passengers on a bicycles as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T05:35:50.020" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1429" CreationDate="2010-10-07T06:13:06.867" Score="20" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash it. Dry thoroughly. You can even wax it if you truly love your ride... &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lube the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricate all pivot points (derailleurs, brake handles, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the tension on the cables and put a small amount of grease on the cable ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the hubs haven't been overhauled in a while you can do that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the seatpost and if metal apply a light coat of grease and re-insert but leave the seat clamp a little loose.  If carbon fiber, remove, clean and re-insert (no grease).  Remember to tighten again in the spring. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate tires to full recommended pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Store your bike in a warm place and check the tire inflation periodically. If they deflate and it's cold your sidewalls are likely to crack when you pump them back up in the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If hung, you may want to periodically take it down and spin the wheels (and the crank) and then hang it again. While it's unlikely that hanging the bike will result in pitting on your hub cones, spinning them a couple of times over the months can't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-08T04:03:37.430" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T04:03:37.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="420" CreationDate="2010-10-07T06:32:32.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible, but there are a few factors to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Valve Type&lt;/strong&gt;, obviously it is easiest with a schraeder valve, as these are the type that cars use. You can get adapters for presta valves that screw on and allow you to use the service station pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tyre Volume&lt;/strong&gt;, as noted in some other answers, the air supply at service stations is often unregulated. The smaller your tyre, the faster the pressure increases - so you run more risk of over-inflation for narrow road tyres than for large mountain bike tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pressure&lt;/strong&gt;, road bike tyres are generally inflated to 110 - 130 PSI, which is much higher than the 30-40 PSI used for car tyres, or the 30-60 PSI used for mountain bike tyres. The service station pump may not be able to achieve this pressure, particularly if it is one of those automatic inflation types.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, if you've got a mountain bike, there is probably not much of an issue using the service station pump. If you've got a road bike, do yourself a favour and buy a decent track pump. That way you'll be able to top up the tyres quickly each time you go out, and enjoy the benefits of nicely inflated tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T06:32:32.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1432" CreationDate="2010-10-07T07:27:45.833" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use a trailer its pretty much the same as using a pushchair (stroller) and indeed some double up (I wouldn't get one that doesn't) - you'll get a 5 point harness, a seat that reclines and you can get head cushions and the like too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course a trailer may not be practical in your circumstance (though I'd be surprised) but if it is it also helps deal with the problem of all the other stuff you want to carry when going out with a small child.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other option for practical as opposed to more recreational use is a cargo bike or trike of some sort - I'd've loved one of these a &lt;a href=&quot;http://nihola.info/en/nihola+bikes/cigar+family/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nihola&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.christianiabikes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Christiana Trike&lt;/a&gt; - in which you can put the same seat/carrier you'd use in a car 'til they're of a size to sit up. There are also Dutch cargo bikes that can similarly be equipped with benches, rain covers, etc. But I'd probably still have wanted a trailer too for longer rides (-:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T07:27:45.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2010-10-07T11:06:27.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode a whole summer of commuting with a broken spoke. You'll be alright. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T11:06:27.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1429" CreationDate="2010-10-07T12:51:13.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always stored my bike hanging from a beam in my attic. I remove my wheels, deflate the tyres and remove all items attached to the bike that are not integral (bike bag, lights, bottles, etc.). I hang the weels from seperate hooks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always leave a tray of dehumidifier near the location to make sure that any stray moisture in the air is soaked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always remove my seat post and apply some form of a carbon paste/grease to the post before popping it back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=103817&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Calfee&quot;&gt;Calfee&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;Thankfully! An opportunity to dispel the myth that one shouldn't grease a carbon post! I don't know where the myth started, but carbon composites are not affected by grease. Our advice is simple: If the seatpost fits tight, grease it. If it slips, de-grease it. As has been known for many years, when aluminum and carbon fiber contact each other, galvanic corrosion can start. That is why Calfee uses a fiberglass sleeve as a seat tube shim. Aluminum seat tube (or sleeve) and a carbon post will result in corrosion of the frame and possible seizure of the post within the frame. A carbon sleeve on an aluminum post will result in corrosion of the post. Salty environments accelerate this corrosion. Anodizing merely slows it down. About the only common chemical that will hurt carbon fiber is paint remover (which attacks the resin between the fibers). But there are many solvents that will dull a nice paint job. &#xA;Craig Calfee&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="518" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T12:51:13.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-10-07T13:01:42.307" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zipties! Zipties! Zipties!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shoe splits - ziptie it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Centre pull brakes cable breaks - ziptie it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Saddle post emergency - ziptie it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Front chainring pops - ziptie it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replacement lights - ziptie it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Broken bone - ziptie plus sticks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Split tyre - stuff with grass, ziptie it if needed :)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;When a man has a hammer, everything in the world looks like a nail&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="518" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T13:01:42.307" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-07T13:01:42.307" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-10-07T13:26:47.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleat covers&lt;/strong&gt; for road cycling shoes - They are great for stopping you wearing out your cleats while walking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.ie/images?q=cycling+cleat+covers&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;rls=com.microsoft%3aen-ie%3aIE-SearchBox&amp;amp;rlz=1I7ADRA_en&amp;amp;prmd=iv&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbs=isch:1&amp;amp;ei=HsmtTO67O8fi4wbq9JDyBQ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;oi=mode_link&amp;amp;ct=mode&amp;amp;ved=0CA4Q_AU&amp;amp;biw=1899&amp;amp;bih=852&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;All Types of Cleat Covers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolkovers.us/koolkovers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cleat Covers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="518" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-23T17:10:48.220" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T17:10:48.220" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-07T13:26:47.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-10-07T18:53:24.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442618318&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302692723&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cycling booties&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; are really nice for keeping your feet dry in the rain.  Can also really help to cut down on wind on cold days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/InRf5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="1331" LastEditDate="2011-04-09T00:19:50.330" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T00:19:50.330" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-07T18:53:24.303" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1450" CreationDate="2010-10-07T19:04:28.603" Score="8" ViewCount="3234" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of training time or average speeds are needed to qualify for each category of racer? I realize that it can varry based on a hilly or flat route so lets assume a time trial of 40km that's relatively flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example might be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cat 2 = 20+ hours a week of training and an average speed of 40km/hour on the time trial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure where to set my goals for my first racing season and figured a good place to start was to see where I fit already with training time and speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T14:28:28.827" Title="Needed training time or speed for each category of racer" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1449" CreationDate="2010-10-07T20:23:54.973" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speed is very difficult to use as a measure due to the fact that the measurements have to occur in an uncontrolled environment. Power, on the other hand is great because it's unaffected by the environment - it's a pure measure of what you're capable of doing at that moment on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of power data has been collected by awesome folks like Andy Coggan who coaches racers of all different categories. One of the key measurements that folks use is W/kg in this analysis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a much better number for comparison would be 4.44 W/kg for functional threshold power (FTP) (average power over 1 hour) for the median Cat 2 racer. For the purposes of comparison, to win the Tour de France requires &gt;6.4 W/kg FTP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.trainingpeaks.com/articles/cycling/power-profiling.aspx&quot;&gt;Andy's excellent article&lt;/a&gt; about power profiling where he talks not just about FTP, but what your power profiles should be for different durations (eg 5s, 1min, 5min). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a direct &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.trainingpeaks.com/media/69406/powerprofiling_v4.xls&quot;&gt;link to a spreadsheet&lt;/a&gt; where he lays out what the numbers are for riders of different categories. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend buying a copy of Andy and Hunter Allen's book: Training and Racing with a Power Meter, 2nd Ed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1934030554&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Training-Racing-Power-Meter-Hunter/dp/1934030554/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1286482928&amp;amp;sr=8-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="295" LastEditorUserId="295" LastEditDate="2010-10-08T02:06:49.500" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T02:06:49.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1460" CreationDate="2010-10-07T20:40:31.643" Score="4" ViewCount="1044" Body="&lt;p&gt;What books do you know about learning mountain biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-07T21:58:36.430" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T22:51:17.787" Title="Good books on mountain biking" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;reference&gt;&lt;book&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-07T20:59:59.723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1454" CreationDate="2010-10-07T20:45:27.693" Score="42" ViewCount="9390" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons about building a bike from scratch vs. buying it new?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-31T03:06:27.467" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T03:06:27.467" Title="Building from scratch vs. buying new" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1452" CreationDate="2010-10-07T21:30:52.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building from scratch is cool because you really get to build a bike that suits your needs perfectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying a built bike is cool because the price of the whole thing is usually lower than the sum of its parts. Also, you're sure that you won't mess anything up while assembling the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if budget isn't an issue and you know what you're doing go ahead and build, but the popular idea is often to buy built and modify some parts as you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I might add that if you build your bike you get to &quot;know&quot; it really well and it will ease the maintenance since you'll already know how each part works. But you can get the same knowledge by dismantling your pre-built bike for an end-of-season/beginning-of-season maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T21:30:52.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1452" CreationDate="2010-10-07T22:15:33.673" Score="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pros of buying pre-built are the cons of building your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each approach is born of very different requirements.  That is, the person who is actually likely to build their own is very unlikely to buy off the shelf and vice versa.  (I assume that 'build from scratch' also covers getting the LBS to do it for you to your specification).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would caution everybody thinking of building their own that you will get much better 'value for money' if you buy pre-built.  A $1000 pre-built will get you much higher quality parts than a $1000 build your own.  This disparity seems to reduce the sillier the price becomes at the high end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need access to some specialized and expensive tools (thanks Gary!) and the skills to go with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is, as always, an intermediate stage where you source everything yourself but have the LBS do the trickier jobs like headset pressing, bottom bracket cups and steerer tube cutting/star nut pressing.  Just remember that your LBS is a business and needs to make money - so buy the parts from them if you want them to fit them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Buying New&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Integrated package&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lowest cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Guaranteed that all the parts will fit and work together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just go pick it up from the bike shop and you can ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't need to know as much about bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility to test ride (usefulness varies, often takes a while to get to know a new bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No choice of components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The color frame you want is either too cheap or too expensive!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Often component compromises are made to reach a price point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't get to choose what factors to optimize for&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Build Your Own&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get exactly what components you want&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can choose what to optimize for&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get your frame color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You choose what compromises you make within your budget&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every part is chosen for a reason and you get to spend hours researching it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The incredibly deep satisfaction you feel building a bike from scratch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knowing that &lt;em&gt;nobody&lt;/em&gt; else is riding a bike like yours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may need some very specialized (read expensive) tools and you end up with the ability to use them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You spent hours researching every part&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Building wheels from scratch is not for the faint hearted, but it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; rewarding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's the &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; expensive way I can think of to get a bicycle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may be more prone to 'overprotective parent syndrome'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may need some very specialized (read expensive) tools and the knowledge to use them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must be comfortable filing and sanding and abusing your frame (think headsets and bottom brackets)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; make mistakes with part compatibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; longer to get riding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only feel how the bike rides after spending a lot of time end money, although you can often find people with similar bikes to test ride (see above)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="396" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T23:31:09.493" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-10-07T22:21:04.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carry a banknote for when you have a tear in the tire casing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrap the note around the tube (that you just had to fix twice until you realized what was going on) and gently inflate the tire.  The banknote will contain the pressure until you get home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, your burger budget is now trapped in your bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="396" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T22:21:04.273" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-07T22:21:04.273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2010-10-07T22:38:44.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to actually learn anything physical from a book - the best way is to go out and do it - find a local trail, start riding and you'll meet plenty of people who are happy to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; get from books on mountain biking are trail guides, maintenance guides, etc.  Basically all the peripheral things you will need to know to get the most enjoyment form the sport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you're reading, you aren't riding&lt;/em&gt;, and the best way to learn is by riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="396" LastActivityDate="2010-10-07T22:38:44.953" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-07T22:38:44.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1452" CreationDate="2010-10-08T02:38:41.233" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The list by Bryon is great, but I have one more addition - In addition to buying parts, you need to buy or have access to a number of specialized tools and the knowledge to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are like me and find the dis-assembly, cleaning and re-assembly of your bicycle a zen-like and cathartic experience, this is a &quot;pro&quot;, otherwise it may belong in the &quot;con&quot; column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T02:38:41.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2010-10-08T02:55:37.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an avid reader, and while I agree that the best way to learn is get on your bike and ride, I like to have a book to refer to and enjoy when riding isn't an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have three recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Riding Skills&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0736083715&quot;&gt;Mastering Mountain Bike Skills&lt;/a&gt; by Lopes and McCormack - great descriptions, photos and diagrams. Can really help you become familiar with terms and techniques.  Now in it's second edition, so if you get it from the library you may want to see if they have the newest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maintenance&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/193138259X&quot;&gt;Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance&lt;/a&gt; - unless you are interested in shelling out $200+ for a shop quality repair guide, this the 'bible' of mountain bike maintenance. Again, there are multiple editions of this book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Training&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1884737714&quot;&gt;The Mountain Biker's Training Bible&lt;/a&gt; by Friel - A little dated now, and a lot of crossover with Friel's book The Cyclist's Training Bible.  Really designed for someone who wants to coach themselves to better performance; it requires some work on your part to develop the plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you enjoy one or more of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T02:55:37.130" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-08T02:55:37.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2010-10-08T08:11:18.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike has &lt;strong&gt;hub gears&lt;/strong&gt;, then you can undo the wheel nets and &lt;strong&gt;firmly&lt;/strong&gt; push the wheel back into the axle slots while doing up the nets.   There is a neck to this, as you don’t want chain too tight and you need the wheel to be aligned when turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T08:11:18.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-10-08T08:32:02.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dirt and mud are much more common on a MTB, but not a real concern in most road riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tolerances for MTB pedals are much higher than are needed for road riding, where the pedals won't be as dirty.  Also, I find myself engaging my pedals with a MTB in much more &quot;odd&quot; positions compared to my road bike, which is virtually always on the flat, with one foot on the ground.  On a MTB, I might be stopped on a trail pointing any which way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of those things are perfectly fine on a road bike, but unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T08:32:02.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2010-10-08T08:51:07.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just read &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0977556999&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mountain Biking The Manual&lt;/a&gt; which was a good read. There's a lot of information inside covering a wide variety of topics. I've also read Riding Skills mentioned in another post which is also very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know everyone learns differently but for me I find that reading books is a very good way to learn about techniques you will use when out on your bike. If you can read a good description of what you should be going then you can visualise yourself doing it and putting it into practice on the trail becomes easier. Also it gives you some glue about which areas of your technique are lacking and how to improve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T08:51:07.473" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-08T08:51:07.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1452" CreationDate="2010-10-08T12:29:06.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building your own anything (bike, shed, computer) is more about the &quot;yeah, why not?&quot; than the &quot;why should I?&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people wouldn't begin to think about it for a whole raft of reasons - ability, cost, quality. But if you're the kind of person to even think the question, most of the cons just evaporate after a little thought, preparation and practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why shouldn't I do that? - no good reason at all, apart from the facts that I know that I probably couldn't actually do it, it would be quite pricey and I'm not sure I'd want to ride the result in traffic ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T12:29:06.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1473" CreationDate="2010-10-08T15:40:37.917" Score="5" ViewCount="1207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to swap shifters and brake levers from one bike to another. One bike is a randonee with STI brifters, and the other is a Surly Long Haul Trucker with barends and separate brake levers. Both bike have 9-speed drivetrains, and are less than two years old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Randonee is my bike, the LHT is not; a guy I used to ride with has agreed to the swap. (I prefer barends, he prefers the STI shifters.) The ideal way to do this would be for us to both bring our bikes to a mechanic and have the shop do the swap on the spot, if we can find a time that works for all three parties involved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any potential pitfalls I should be aware of? I'm assuming we may have to replace some cables -- one bike is a larger frame than the other -- but are there any mechanical issues that are likely to arise? Are there any parts I'm likely to need to replace? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T17:38:35.470" Title="Swapping STIs for barends -- what issues are likely to arise?" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="94" CreationDate="2010-10-08T16:46:33.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to always keep my adapter taped to my bike, in case I needed to use a car pump.  Most bike pumps will deal with Presta valve, so you should not have to use the adapter often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T19:40:50.173" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T19:40:50.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1469" CreationDate="2010-10-08T17:38:35.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inimitable late Sheldon Brown left us a great post on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/upgrade-gears.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shifters and gearing and compatibility&lt;/a&gt;.  The highlights for this kind of swap are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the bike getting the bar end shifters:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Likely no problem.  If the rear shifter is indexed but the indexing doesn't match the gearing then you can usually switch to 'friction' mode.  May be annoying if you are not used to friction shifting, but will be functional and you will get used to it in a ride or two.  You may even find that you like being able to 'trim' a shift like you can with friction shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bar End front shifters are usually friction anyway, so no problem there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cables will probably have to be rerouted and bar tape replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the bike getting the STI shifters&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gearing must match.  You will run&#xA;into trouble installing 9-speed STI&#xA;shifters on a bike with an 8-speed&#xA;cluster.  The derailleur will usually&#xA;work with multiple cog counts if it's&#xA;reasonably modern. The indexing/shift&#xA;distance is controlled by the index&#xA;gears inside the shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Front shifters are indexed as well, and may only work with certain&#xA;chainring sizes/configurations.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Again you will probably be re-routing cables along the&#xA;handlebars and replacing bar tape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake Levers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also run into issues swapping the brake levers.  Brakes differ in their 'pull length' so levers that work with center-pull cantilevers like I have on my touring bike won't work if I move them to my old beater mountain bike that uses direct-pull V-brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here again is Sheldon Brown on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cantilever Brakes&lt;/a&gt; - scroll down for the compatibility info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cog counts are the same and the brake pull is compatible then I say go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like working on bikes, and live close to a bike shop so that if I need a part it's a quick jaunt. If the gear counts match for the bike this is exactly the kind of thing I would find 'fun' to tackle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T17:38:35.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1478" CreationDate="2010-10-08T19:06:12.467" Score="13" ViewCount="3286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a car and my girlfriend has a similar car. We don't really want to scuff up the cars with the types of racks that use pressure points on the trunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither car currently has a hitch at the moment. Neither car has a roof rack nor the ability to put one on as far as I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros/cons of installing hitches and using a hitch rack vs. buying one rear rack and switching it between cars as needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We went to REI today and picked up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/722143&quot;&gt;Yakima SuperJoe 2&lt;/a&gt;. After trying to fit it on my car, there's no way it's going to work because the inside bike will rub on the car and not sit correctly because of the pedal. We are going to go back tomorrow and grab the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/722142&quot;&gt;Yakima SuperJoe 3&lt;/a&gt; because it should give us more distance from the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-11T20:47:58.960" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T15:37:08.100" Title="Pros and cons of auto bike rack types" Tags="&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1474" CreationDate="2010-10-08T20:08:49.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a bike rack for my car for many years, and having a portable one I could move between cars was very very useful.  You never know when you end up with a rental car for a weekend, or go on a trip with a friend (in their car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I had &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000ELUXFC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this rack&lt;/a&gt;, and after 4 years of regular use it didn't leave any marks on my car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it folds easily and can be stored in the trunk of your car is just a bonus :)  Also, now that I have sold my car, I keep it in the trunk of my GF's car, so if I ever get stranded, she can come pick me up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T20:08:49.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1477" CreationDate="2010-10-08T22:02:19.920" Score="12" ViewCount="12681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see this once in a great while around the city: two or more tennis balls stuck inside the spokes, right up against the hub. It usually seems to be on older-looking mountain bike commuter/beater bikes, but I think I saw it on a newer fixie a while back, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this server some function to which I am not privy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T17:44:49.957" Title="Why would one put tennis balls in the spokes?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1476" CreationDate="2010-10-08T22:10:11.560" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it's a stylistic choice, and doesn't actually serve any function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-08T22:10:11.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1474" CreationDate="2010-10-09T02:30:40.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a trunk rack myself and only put a little denim pocket I made over the pedal of the inner bike and haven't had any troubles with it leaving marks, even after transporting a mountain bike from Mississippi to Massachusetts using it.  Before I started using the denim pocket, I did have an occasion where I wasn't careful with the pedal and scratched the trunk lid, but that was it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T02:30:40.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1362" CreationDate="2010-10-09T05:24:28.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general hubs and freewheel assemblies from different companies require different tools.  The lockrings are seldom compatible, and the procedure and tools required to disassemble the freewheel is frequently different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience and leaving out the internally geared hubs, the crossover of tools required between Shimano and SRAM is the closest.  I don't know that much about DT Swiss hubs, but the technical guide makes it look like there are several specialized tools required to get at the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess would be that unless you plan on doing this yourself several times, it's probably more cost efficient to have the shop do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T05:24:28.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1488" CreationDate="2010-10-09T05:36:30.783" Score="20" ViewCount="62553" Body="&lt;p&gt;With out completely removing the cranks and bottom bracket, how can I tell when it's time to replace my bottom bracket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current symptom is a slightly 'rough' feeling when I pedal. It's not constant, and it's not the pedals - I've swapped them out recently with nearly new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-09T07:13:03.310" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T17:32:27.333" Title="How do I know when to replace my bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-09T06:04:25.940" Score="9" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;All I care about (my #1 issue) is getting better separated bicycle infrastructure (kid, old-person etc friendly) to southern California. Specifically for upcoming election and especially for local city election for a southern California city (&lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?q=Dana+Point,+CA&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;hq=&amp;amp;hnear=Dana+Point,+CA&amp;amp;gl=us&amp;amp;ei=HHiwTLKUFoT48AbehNGdCQ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;oi=geocode_result&amp;amp;ct=image&amp;amp;resnum=1&amp;amp;ved=0CCUQ8gEwAA&quot;&gt;Dana Point, CA&lt;/a&gt;) where can I look up who to vote for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like the Sierra Club voting guide, but from bicyclist's perspective and especially for local politics. Other elections in addition to city council could be relevant also, state and federal as well as offices like the Sheriff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="580" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-09T14:12:50.190" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T22:34:12.450" Title="Where can I look up voting guide for better bike infrastructure?" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1483" CreationDate="2010-10-09T07:12:00.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closest thing I know of nationally is the League of American Bicyclists &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeleague.org/programs/bikeadvocacy/election.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I Bike - I Vote&lt;/a&gt; page, but that is not going to really give you a clue about for whom you should vote. It's more a resource for issues before Congress that you could use to question candidates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know where Dana Point is, but I know many counties in CA have bicycle advocacy groups like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://la-bike.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Los Angeles County Bicycle Coalition&lt;/a&gt;.  Here's a page with links to other &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calbike.org/about/local-affiliates/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CA Bike Advocacy Groups&lt;/a&gt;.  Your best bet is to contact your local group and talk to them about issues and recommendations. While you are at it, join, donate and become active. Like stated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/856/what-are-the-most-effective-methods-of-bicycling-advocacy&quot;&gt;this post on bicycling advocacy&lt;/a&gt;, the best way to be involved is to be active locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T22:34:12.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1385" CreationDate="2010-10-09T08:43:36.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dinottelighting.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.dinottelighting.com/&lt;/a&gt; lights, the 200L-AA series, which is what I use for mountain biking at night (see this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1466/recommended-good-value-cycle-lights-for-commute/1480#1480&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Because they're bright 200W - I can comfortably ride singletrack at night with just one of them (though it really takes two to get to high speeds), they use AA batteries - which means you're not locked into a proprietary battery, and they're tiny and easy to mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really keen on the ability to use a standard battery (AA).  And the price for two of them  is comparable to a Nite Rider of similar brightness.  I prefer to have one on the handlebars - because that provides some shadows, and one on the helmet - because that lets me put the light where my head points.  I find the combination of two lights in that configuration beats a single light in either spot.  The lack of shadows of a helmet mounted light makes it difficult for me to see the terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T08:43:36.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2010-10-09T08:52:10.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your hub choice depends on whether your frame has vertical or horizontal dropouts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I converted my old mountain bike (with vertical dropouts) into a single speed building a wheel I built myself using an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whiteind.com/rearhubs/singlespeedhubs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eccentric Eno&lt;/a&gt; hub.  I happen to have the wheel flipped such that it's a free wheel, but I could flip it and use it as a fixie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T08:52:10.243" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-09T08:52:10.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1493" CreationDate="2010-10-09T12:08:33.330" Score="35" ViewCount="35264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy/build a road bike and I would like it to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;last 100 years&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have a low environmental cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I'm not interested in shedding grams (a diet would be more helpful for me), I'm leaning towards a steel frame. But steel frames are often cheaply manufactured, and the price is slowly starting to reflect trendiness than quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I recognise a high quality new or used steel frame? Are there simple things to look for when weeding out the poorly made or overpriced frames?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="565" LastEditorUserId="565" LastEditDate="2010-10-11T06:01:59.563" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T20:24:56.477" Title="How can you recognise a quality steel frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1482" CreationDate="2010-10-09T13:12:12.483" Score="17" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull your cranks laterally. Do they&#xA;move?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give your cranks a good spin,&#xA;preferably without the chain. Hear&#xA;any unusual grinding noise or little&#xA;clicks ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you answered no to both questions, keep pedalling. You're still fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be nice if the BB was always smooth as butter, but a little rough doesn't mean it's broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-10-09T13:36:28.230" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T13:36:28.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1474" CreationDate="2010-10-09T21:06:39.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get one of those racks that hangs off the boot of your car, I have a hatchback (Vauxhall/Opel Astra) and it works fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two straps that are anchored inside the boot and the straps come out of the top door hinge, no marks/wear there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two straps clip onto the side of the boot door&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two other straps which go down and clip underneath the car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame itself is foam padded on the points that contact with the car. One gold piece of advice I'll give here, is if you rest the rack on the ground, make sure you brush the foam bits with your hands. I forgot to do this, there was a stone it picked up from the ground and after a 40 mile journey it dug right into my paintwork on the bumper and made a nasty scratch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These styles of racks are cheap, around £40 / $60, and take about 20 minutes to setup/takedown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T21:06:39.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1494" CreationDate="2010-10-09T21:09:10.170" Score="5" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a set of mudguards recently, the rear one attaches onto the seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a red reflector that also attached onto the seatpost, so if I have both the seat has to be too high and only my toes can touch the ground when seated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've removed the reflector, is this OK or is it required by the highway code?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:56:56.020" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T13:54:28.687" Title="Are reflectors mandatory by the UK highway code?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;visibility&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1496" CreationDate="2010-10-09T21:15:46.643" Score="13" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont actually own a cycling helmet, but I'm thinking its probably a good idea to get one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to buy one from the internet (mainly because its cheaper than stores), but what do I need to look for? How do I know which is the correct size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:56:35.663" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:56:35.663" Title="What should I look for when purchasing a helmet?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1487" CreationDate="2010-10-09T21:33:16.340" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things differ if you are looking at a new or a used frame, but here are some suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;, when you say you are looking for a steel frame, what you probably mean is a ChroMoly Steel alloy frame.  This would be a frame made from tubes where chromium and molybdenum  were added as the steel was refined.  Frequently you will see a sticker on the tube with a number like 531, 631, 725 or 853 which is used to describe the particular blend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second&lt;/strong&gt;, spotting a high or low quality frame has become more difficult over the years as machining and welding techniques have filtered down. With older frames you definitely want to look at the quality of the welds and brazing, as well as the paint.  Welds may be smooth, or have a regular pattern.  Watch out for welds that look rough, 'globby' or irregular.  It used to be that the use of lugs was a hallmark of lower quality frames, but today you see them more often on high end boutique or custom touring frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to feel the bottom sides of the tubes for a &quot;seam&quot;.  On older low quality frames you frequently find rolled tubes, where the steel was a flat sheet that was then rolled and welded length-wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finally&lt;/strong&gt;, the durability of a steel frame is largely a function of the paint quality and maintenance. Water and rust are the primary enemies of a steel frame.  If buying used you will want to closely inspect the area around the bottom bracket, dropouts, and the whole underside of the bike for chips, cracks and visible rust.  For long life, as well as the low environmental cost, steel v. aluminum is probably a wash.  In the US and most the developed countries both aluminum and steel recycling is around 50% and the production costs and impacts are pretty similar.  And while corrosion may be an issue, an aluminum frame won't rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T21:33:16.340" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1491" CreationDate="2010-10-09T22:18:20.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a good &quot;common language&quot; guide to the bike specific regulations in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highwaycode/DG_069837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Highway Code here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant paragraph reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At night your cycle MUST have white front and red rear lights lit. It MUST also be fitted with a red rear reflector (and amber pedal reflectors, if manufactured after 1/10/85). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while I am not a barrister, nor a UK citizen, the answer appears to be that you have to have a rear reflector somewhere. However, there may be some wiggle room since the law specifies &lt;em&gt;at night&lt;/em&gt;.  It seems unlikely that if you only ride during the day that you will run into a problem if you remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most jurisdictions in the US and other countries have similar laws.  While safety experts generally agree that a rear light is much more effective (and UK law seems to recognize this by requiring not only the light, but that it be lit), you can usually get away with a rear light that is also made out of red or amber reflective material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T22:18:20.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1491" CreationDate="2010-10-09T22:19:00.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, yes, in practice, not really. The CTC have a decent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/desktopdefault.aspx?tabid=4071&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;summary of the situation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rear Reflector&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is required, coloured red, marked BS6102/2 (or equivalent), positioned centrally or offside, between 350mm and 900mm from the ground, at or near the rear, aligned towards and visible from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that the highway code is not the law, so breaking it is not illegal. Although generally speaking if you contravene it you will probably be breaking a law somewhere or other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T22:19:00.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1492" CreationDate="2010-10-09T22:38:27.807" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US you need to look for one of three certifications: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CPSC sticker for the US Consumer Product Safety Commission standard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) has a F1447 standard that is is identical and may be more common internationally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snell B-95 used to be more common, but as a higher, more rigorous standard I don't think you see it any more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely that helmets available online and for the UK market will carry one of the US certifications as well as a similar EU certification.  I know there is a &quot;CE&quot; certification but I don't know about what it entails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any helmet meeting one of those certifications will provide the basic level of protection you are looking for, even if it is just $15-$20 US.  Beyond that comes the world of look, style and performance. As helmets increase in price, they decrease in weight, increase in vents, and sometimes increase in adjustability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you mention that you want to buy online, but you may want to purchase your first one at your local shop for the following reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different manufactures/brands fit different shapes and sizes of heads better.  For instance, I like Specialized helmets because they tend to fit my head shape and size better than either Bell or Giro.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shop technician can help you adjust the padding and retention straps for a correct fit.  It's not hard, but it is critical for the helmet to provide the desired protection. I see people every day riding with poor fitting or maladjusted helmets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's always a good idea to build a relationship with your Local Bike Shop (LBS). You never know when you are going to need a quick or emergency repair, and your LBS is more likely to help out a regular customer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the first helmet you will have a better idea of what you like and what fits, and you can shop around online.  You will want to replace your helmet every couple of years anyway, as it loses structural integrity overtime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/index.htm&quot;&gt;Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute&lt;/a&gt; is my favorite online source for helmet info.  Start with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/guide.htm&quot;&gt;How To Buy&lt;/a&gt; page, but be sure to surf around on the site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T22:38:27.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1487" CreationDate="2010-10-09T22:41:55.580" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things that you can look for, some already mentioned in other answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tubing&lt;/strong&gt;, as other have mentioned, higher quality frames are made of higher quality tubing. High quality tubing will often be a tube set from a &quot;name brand&quot; and have the appropriate stickers (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File%3aReynolds_531SL_Fork_Blades.jpg&quot;&gt;Reynolds 531&lt;/a&gt;). High quality tubing is typically double, or even triple butted - i.e. the tubing has a larger internal diameter, and hence thinner walls in the middle of the tube. Low quality tubing may have a weld running along its length if it is made from rolled stock.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lugs&lt;/strong&gt;, the presence of lugs as opposed to welds is not an indicator as to whether the frame is high or low quality. Lugs have been used in high end steel frames for a long time, but other methods have seen surges in popularity (e.g. welding). What you want to look at is the quality and refinement of the lugs - do they look like something that has been meticulously machined and crafted to fit the tubes just right, or do they look like something that a plumber would use to join to pipes together. High quality frames often have special patterns added to the detail of the lugs for aesthetic reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rear dropouts&lt;/strong&gt;, a technique that is often used on really cheap steel frames is to have the rear dropout pressed from sheet steel and the ends of the seat and chain stays just &quot;squished&quot; around the ends of it. A quality frame will have a well crafted junction between the stays and the dropout. Like lugs, builders often put some artistic flourishes around the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Welding/brazing&lt;/strong&gt;, this should be even and consistent. There should be no small gaps that could trap moisture and cause rust. You shouldn't see small bits of excess metal on the frame around the weld or braze. The surface of welds should either be a regular pattern of beading, with each bead around the same size, or filed smooth. There should be no pitting of the surrounding tube or lug from the welding or brazing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Componentry&lt;/strong&gt;, if you are looking through second-hand bikes to find your quality frame, it is also worth looking at the associated componentry on the frame. Usually high quality frames have been built up into bikes with high quality components and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, consider the fact that there are many low quality frames out there that do the job just fine as a bike. High quality is not a necessity for a frame to build up to a perfectly usable and long lasting bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T22:41:55.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1451" CreationDate="2010-10-09T22:51:17.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found William Nealy's books to be quite good when I was learning how to mountain bike. They are a bit old now, but many of the fundamental techniques are the same, and the graphic presentation really helps to get the &quot;image&quot; of the skill into your head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com.au/books?id=mCUHOaQtTJEC&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;ots=fZmMdr58YB&amp;amp;dq=william%20nealy%20mountain%20bike&amp;amp;pg=PP1#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mountain bike!: a manual of beginning to advanced technique&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-09T22:51:17.787" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-09T22:51:17.787" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1492" CreationDate="2010-10-10T12:49:46.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Britain the current standard for helmets is &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.bsigroup.com/en/ProductDetail/?pid=000000000030082421&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BS EN 1078:1997&#xA;Helmets for pedal cyclists and for users of skateboards and roller skates&lt;/a&gt;.   Standards aside though, in general what you want in a helmet is something that feels comfortable, that once properly done up doesn't &quot;slosh&quot; around your head, one that doesn't restrict your vision  and has enough ventilation to stop your head from getting too hot.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&quot;Nice to haves&quot; are a pleasant design and the ability to add a peak (visor) for summer riding (to keep the sun off your face).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Oh, and if you ever ride in Australia in the springtime somewhere to put some &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms?hl=en&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;source=embed&amp;amp;msa=0&amp;amp;msid=104086267518526684421.000472a6e6325fb09d34b&amp;amp;ll=-37.752258,145.178833&amp;amp;spn=0.781783,1.783905&amp;amp;z=10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;magpie deterrents&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-10T18:57:43.493" LastActivityDate="2010-10-10T18:57:43.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1501" CreationDate="2010-10-10T16:19:15.963" Score="97" ViewCount="28195" Body="&lt;p&gt;Window shopping for road bikes, I can't see many that have disc brakes. What are the reasons for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-08-23T19:41:39.967" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T19:41:39.967" Title="Why are disc brakes rare on road bikes? (circa 2010)" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="14" FavoriteCount="10" ClosedDate="2020-08-23T19:43:44.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2010-10-10T16:48:52.327" Score="91" Body="&lt;h2&gt;2016 Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes are now common on road bikes, even racing road bikes in the professional peloton. Most of the major bike manufacturers offer disc and non-disc options for most of their bike models. Some &quot;endurance&quot;, &quot;adventure&quot;, and &quot;cyclocross&quot; (drop bar bikes sold under &quot;road&quot; category, but intended for some off-road use) models only offer options with disc brakes now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is some opposition to their use in certain types of road racing. If a rider's leg contacts a disc rotor while the bike is going fast, that rotor will likely cause a serious injury (it's spinning fast and pretty thin, so cuts flesh easily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages of disc brakes are primarily in wet and/or muddy conditions. In dry conditions, a good rim brake can lock both wheels up just as well as a disc brake. So for road-racing under dry conditions, there's no real advantage to disc brakes, and appears to be some disadvantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the &quot;racer&quot; style road bikes follow what's allowed for professional road bike racing, so it's possible that the current opposition to disc brakes in professional road racing will eventually lead to them becoming less popular on road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, my next new bike will definitely have disc brakes. I don't race in a peloton, I do sometimes ride in the wet, and it's much cheaper to replace a rotor than to replace a rim or wheel. (rim brakes eventually wear down the rim and make you replace it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Original answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it mostly comes down to one primary thing: &lt;strong&gt;disc brakes weigh more&lt;/strong&gt; and road bikes are supposed to be light.  Also, you need a heavier wheel and heavier fork to handle the forces of disc braking, which compounds the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the advantages to disc brakes (working better in mud/dirt, easier to work with a suspension, work with really wide tires) generally don't apply to road bikes or aren't what the road bike was designed for.  For any bike on the road the only likely advantage of disc brakes would be that they're more likely to work after you've ridden through something nasty (mud, puddle with oil on it, etc) that's deep enough to get on the rims, and you probably want to be avoiding any puddles you can't see the bottom of anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the final reason is simply that disc brakes (generally) cost more than rim brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen bikes made for the road that had disc brakes, but they're generally not the typical &quot;go fast&quot; road bike.  (Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/sutra.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kona Sutra&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T00:30:42.760" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T00:30:42.760" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1491" CreationDate="2010-10-10T18:31:05.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem with having no rear reflector is that if you are involved in an accident with a car at night and make a claim on the drivers insurance, then the insurers, being insurers, will probably seek to nullify the claim by proving that your bike was not adequately equipped to be on the road at night due to the lack of legally required reflectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're also supposed to have amber reflectors on both sides of the pedals too, which doesn't seem feasible on clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-10-10T18:31:05.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2010-10-10T19:11:13.200" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2010/10/5/why-disc-brakes.html&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; for a recent post by ex frame-builder Dave Moulton about disc brakes. He discusses the reverse-directed stress to the spokes due to disc brakes as a potential problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also points out that the standard caliper brake can be viewed as a disc brake with a much larger diameter disc (the rim) and without the problem of transferring the force through the spokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good point brought up in the above linked article is the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A disc brake means you can’t have radial spokes. Not only must there&#xA;  be crossed tangential spokes on the non drive side of the rear wheel,&#xA;  you must also have tangential spokes on the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even most lower level road bikes have radial spoke patterns. Changing to a tangential spoke pattern would increase the weight of the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2011-12-15T14:39:17.660" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T14:39:17.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1515" CreationDate="2010-10-10T20:12:09.777" Score="16" ViewCount="69944" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the reason for pedal straps? They look as if they are more awkward and I can't see what the benefits are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't remember the last time my feet slipped off my mountain bike, so why would they on a road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-10T22:18:23.890" LastActivityDate="2019-10-19T10:04:42.240" Title="What is the point of pedal straps?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1517" CreationDate="2010-10-10T20:13:30.700" Score="47" ViewCount="183336" Body="&lt;p&gt;When cycling on roads on my mountain bike, I generally get around 10-12 miles per hour on a flat surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of speeds can I expect to get on a road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-05-01T03:43:17.963" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T20:20:29.387" Title="How do on-road mountain bike speeds translate to road bike speeds?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1512" CreationDate="2010-10-10T20:16:54.943" Score="13" ViewCount="24529" Body="&lt;p&gt;How often should I clean my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used it several times over the summer, but only once in muddy conditions, should I clean it after every ride or once per quarter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="563" LastEditDate="2010-10-11T17:12:20.367" LastActivityDate="2010-10-12T01:32:26.360" Title="How often should I clean my bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1516" CreationDate="2010-10-10T20:18:11.553" Score="23" ViewCount="28708" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently went for a ride in the forest, there were sections of sand and I can clearly see sand on my bike chain now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I clean this off effectively? There are chain cleaning &quot;machines&quot;, but they look like more of a gimmick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T21:06:31.507" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T22:32:55.580" Title="How can I clean sand off my bike chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1504" CreationDate="2010-10-10T20:38:18.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for using pedal straps is to allow you to transfer power from your legs to the pedals while both pushing down and pulling up.  If your pedals do not have straps you can only transfer power to the pedals when pushing down on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While road cycling you typically don't need to take your feet off of the pedals as often as you do when mountain biking.  By having pedal straps or &quot;clip-less&quot; pedals you can transfer power from your legs to the pedals for the full pedal stroke.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="449" LastActivityDate="2010-10-10T20:38:18.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1504" CreationDate="2010-10-10T20:49:29.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for straps is that properly tightened straps give you the best absolute power transmission, because you can both push and pull on the pedals at the same time, with zero risk of the pedals unclipping themselves. Clipless pedals, while they have been getting better, could historically unclip randomly at crucial moments such as sprints, with usually catastrophic results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the old times, you would find straps (toeclips) on road and track racing bikes, or bikes of people who had some pretence to racing. The advent of mountain biking occurred simultaneously to the invention of clipless pedals, so it's rare to find clips on the MTB. They are still used in track racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-10-10T20:49:29.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2010-10-10T20:56:03.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the chain is not very dirty, just clean it off quickly with a rag and see if it helps first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain cleaning machines work passably well and save some time over manual chain cleaning methods. So if you find yourself having to clean your chain often (MTBing in mud, typically) it's worth it to invest in one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternate method is to take the chain off, put it into a plastic container with some chain cleaning fluid or just plain old unleaded, and shake vigorously for 10 minutes. Save the fluid/petrol for future use, the old grease and sand will fall to the bottom and whatever's left above can be used again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use either of the last two methods, you have to apply grease to the chain again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-10-10T20:56:03.910" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2010-10-10T21:43:20.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my hybrid (think Mountain bike style but with thinner wheels) I average about 12-14 mph around Bolton (lots of hills) when I go out at my in-laws (in Doncaster where it's fairly flat) I average 15-18mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a road bike you'll be faster still as it's lighter and built for speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-10-10T21:43:20.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1506" CreationDate="2010-10-10T22:04:30.853" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a saying that a clean bike is a happy bike. You really can't clean a bike too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to clean the bike more often in the winter when riding on road salt, which is bad for the drivetrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all bikes, I'd definitely clean the drivetrain if it gets muddy. Mud can interfere with shifting and braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not put oil or grease on the rims. If you have rim brakes, they may squeak after cleaning the rims. As long as it doesn't interfere with braking power, I don't worry about that. The clean-rim-squeal-sound goes away on its own after a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the frame: With a steel frame, you'll need to worry about rust, particularly where you have any scratches in the paint. Patting the bike dry after a ride in the rain should deal with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This applies to steel and aluminum, I know very little about carbon or Titanium frames, or about disc brakes.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-10T22:04:30.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1504" CreationDate="2010-10-10T22:17:52.407" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer &quot;so you can pull up on the pedals&quot; makes good sense, but I don't buy it. I don't pull up on the pedals unless I'm climbing a steep, sudden hill. I suspect many, many cyclists don't pedal with full efficiency on the flats. (This is my gut feeling, I have no proof or numbers on this. I remember seeing a study that agreed with this, but I also recall that it was limited in such a way as to cast doubt on the data.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I use clips and straps is that a lot of energy is expended simply keeping the balls of your feet centered on the pedals. If you don't believe me, try pedaling exclusively with clips and straps until you're used to them, then remove them. You'll find that your feet keep slipping off the pedals. This demonstrates that you were expending effort to keep your feet on-target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The only reason I don't use clipless pedals and shoes -- which &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; a much more elegant way to achieve the same effect clips and straps are going for -- is that I don't want to have to deal with an extra pair of shoes, and I want comfortable shoes when I get off the bike.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An experienced cyclist will make constant, small adjustments to keep their feet in the optimal location on the pedals. Clips and straps keep the cyclist's feet in the best places to deliver the most power to the pedals (the balls of the feet), saving the cyclist that effort. (I have a regrettable habit of pedaling on the arches of my feet, which clips and straps correct.) As a bonus, the straps are there when you turn a corner and then see a sudden hill you didn't have a chance to build up momentum to climb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I'm at least half retro-grouch touring cyclist, so take this with a grain of salt! I'm a non-racer, saddle-level-with-the-handlebars-for-comfort cyclist.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-11T20:18:03.133" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T20:18:03.133" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2010-10-10T23:55:09.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way to clean the sand off effectively is the same as cleaning you chain of regular road gunk. Effectively you want to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the grease/oil that is acting as an adhesive to hold the sand and grime on the chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanically clean the dirt particles off the chain. I use one of the chain cleaning machines for this, but there are other ways.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-lubricate the chain to prevent rust and reduce wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/692/what-to-use-to-clean-your-chain-and-cogs&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; on general cleaning of bike chains has some good answers with different levels of tech investment required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2010-10-10T23:55:09.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1504" CreationDate="2010-10-11T00:08:59.563" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of reasons for using either toe-clips (pedal straps) or clipless pedals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It allows you to pull up as well as down, increasing the efficiency of your pedalling. This is something that you need to work at to get full effect from, as it is not a natural motion to most people. In Cadel Evans' book &quot;Close to Flying&quot; there is talk of a bike he uses for training that has a &quot;freewheel&quot; mechanism for the cranks which forces you to practice lifting the pedals as well as pushing them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It positions the pedal under the ball of the foot giving you better leverage. While you don't need straps or clipless to do this, it does help keep your foot in the right place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It helps to stop your feet coming off in rough ground while mountain biking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It gives you more control over the rear of the bike allowing you to lift and shift the rear more easily. This makes it easier to bunny hop, and helps with controlling the bike on rough ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T00:08:59.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2010-10-11T01:40:42.670" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a spray bottle with diluted degreaser to spray down the chain and wipe it with an old towel to get most of the dirt off; or if it's really sandy or muddy you can use regular soap and water and a sponge. Then clean and lube the chain the way you normally would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After using several different plastic mechanical chain cleaners my favorite method is also one of the cheapest. I use a small can, like a soup or a tomato sauce can, put a little degreaser in it and clean the chain with an old toothbrush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the bottle is okay, but stay away from using gasoline, kerosene, paint thinner or other harsh liquids.  These will penetrate deeply into the links and will displace the lube you try to reapply, as well as creating a significant fire hazard. Some people like to use diesel fuel which is okay. In my opinion, I'd stick to a quality degreaser product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-11T01:56:32.063" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T01:56:32.063" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2010-10-11T01:53:16.020" Score="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my reasonably flat commute I average around 16 mph on my road bike, but your average speed is dependent on many different factors. A general rule of thumb is that &lt;strong&gt;if you are switching from a mountain bike with knobbies to a road bike you will be between 15-20% faster at the same watts/effort.&lt;/strong&gt;  Typically that's only a change of 2-3 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I teach a bike commuting workshop, and one of the most common questions is whether to switch from a mountain bike to a road bike in order to increase speed.  Typically, I tell people to &lt;strong&gt;try three things first&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swap out your knobby tires for high pressure slicks.  You can find 1.25&quot; -1.5&quot; slick tires that fit mountain bike rims and run at between 75 - 90 lbs of pressure. These will dramatically reduce rolling resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a suspension either lock it out, or set it as stiff as you can.  Locking out your suspension will cause more of your effort to be transferred directly through the drive-train and translate into less loss of momentum from shock absorption.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try clipless pedals.  Your pedal stroke will be more efficient, again resulting in an increase in speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do those three things the only real differences between a road bike and your mountain bike will be the weight (which matters a lot more when accelerating than it does when you are already rolling) and surface area resistance from riding in the drops.  But most road bikers don't spend much time in the drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, your weight and fitness make a huge difference.  I frequently pass road bike riders while on my commuter rigid frame mountain bike with high pressure slicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-11T04:24:37.537" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T04:24:37.537" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="592" CreationDate="2010-10-11T02:30:30.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what you use it for. The primary advantage I have from my helmet is not hitting the branches with my head, when riding in forest. For that I don't need a new one each 2 years. I even heard that this is actually what bike helmets were made for in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T02:30:30.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1522" CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:44:46.700" Score="18" ViewCount="1148" Body="&lt;p&gt;About 30+ years ago I bought my first road bike.  It had an old (used) Brooks leather saddle on it, whose design probably dated back to 1900 AD.  To anyone who hasn't seen these,&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybw6c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;these&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;they look like a they were inspired by horse saddles, but tinier.  The leather is rock hard, but once they get broken in are surprisingly comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays the saddles you see in shops are all high-tech, lightweight creations.  I had to search, but found some ads for Brooks on Amazon.  So:  does anyone use them?  Or are they outdated and anachronistic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:56:23.400" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T23:05:18.533" Title="Does anyone still use the old Brooks-style saddles?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:50:24.223" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fitness is the biggest factor in how fast you can maintain.  To provide a point of comparison, a local club here in the Seattle area holds an early spring Time Trial (race against the clock) every March.  Looking at the results--and keep in mind, these are racers going all out, just short of barfing when they finish--those that competed averaged from 20 mph to 30 mph.  Personally there is no way I can maintain 20 mph on the flats due to my lack of conditioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fatcyclist.com&quot;&gt;The Fat Cyclist&lt;/a&gt; wrote about riding in the team car for a stage of the Tour of California, he got to follow one of Team Radio Shack's riders.  His rider was planning on making it an 'easy' day, and was riding around 30 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion...Your Mileage May Vary!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:  btw, my personal speed (48-year-old dude, about 30 pounds overweight) is about 16.5 mph on smooth flats with no wind.  Overall speed for a long ride, counting little stops to make a phone call, fill a water bottle, etc. averages about 13.5 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T03:50:24.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1519" CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:59:00.700" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brooks saddles are on the way back in with the trendy fixie crowd. You can certainly see plenty of them on the streets of Sydney, and two of my friends have them on their bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently they are pretty comfortable once broken in, just as you've said in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T03:59:00.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1519" CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:59:27.503" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, people still use them and swear by them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen them for sale in most of my local bike shops. The breaking-in thing (that they mold to your backside over time) is the big feature that everybody who uses one seems to love. They're very popular amongst the touring crowd, especially the B-17. Yesterday, I was volunteering at a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.levisgranfondo.com/&quot;&gt;huge road ride event&lt;/a&gt; and even saw some Brooks saddles on fancy new carbon bikes (though I think that was one with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/en/Shop_ProductPage.aspx?cat=saddles+-+road+%26+mtb&amp;amp;prod=Swift+Titanium&quot;&gt;titanium rails&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/en/&quot;&gt;Brooks' Website&lt;/a&gt; - where you can find out that the design dates to 1882 and that maybe part of why they seemed to somewhat go away and then resurge was that they were part of Raleigh and are on their own now...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/saddles.html?manufacturer=45&quot;&gt;Velo Orange's copies of Brooks saddles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardiffltd.com/&quot;&gt;Cardiff&lt;/a&gt; another company making copycat saddles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-11T04:07:16.813" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T04:07:16.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1487" CreationDate="2010-10-11T04:16:31.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want the best for you in a steel frame, look into local framebuilders.  There are newer tubesets by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.columbustubi.com/eng/1.htm&quot;&gt;Columbus&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.truetemper.com/performance_tubing/tubing.asp&quot;&gt;True Temper&lt;/a&gt; that individual builders can use to make awesome frames.  Furthermore, they are competitive with aluminum frames (yes they weigh more, but the difference is far less than how overweight 'I' am...ymmv).  Here in the Seattle area we have Davidson and Rodriguez bikes built locally.  Your area probably has someone who builds high-quality frames as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are treatments for the inside of steel frames to prevent corrosion, and any reputable steel frame builder will have treated their frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T04:16:31.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1506" CreationDate="2010-10-11T06:13:28.717" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what you want from your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're bike is a high performance, lightweight machine and you expect many years of trouble free performance in tough conditions, then wash it as frequently as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a knock-about treadly that you use for the short commute to and from work and for getting your shopping, then wash it as infrequently as you care to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that really needs regular cleaning and lubricating is the chain. If you aren't planning on cleaning the chain too often, then ask your bike shop about which chain lubricant will last the longest. You probably want to lubricate the chain at least once a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T06:13:28.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1474" CreationDate="2010-10-11T07:41:37.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Thule T2 is the way to go. The T2 uses trays so that you just set your bike on the tray and lock it down. It is a hitch mount so you will need a hitch on your car. The pros are that it is super easy and hassle free to use. Additionally you can put heavier bikes on here that you wouldn't be able to put on most bike racks.  The downside is that it is a bit on the expensive side (though REI is having a 20% off sale right now...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/799935&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/799935&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T07:41:37.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1506" CreationDate="2010-10-11T09:43:07.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To give some context: I just ride on roads and I cycle for fun and transport. I'm minimizing cleanup-time while trying to maximize ride smoothness and bike(part) lifetime. From that I clean my bike (and by &quot;my bike&quot; I mean &quot;moving parts of my bike&quot; i.e. chain, gears, all the gear-changing stuff, the sides of my rims (where brake-pads hit)) when one of these is true:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My chain starts to look dirty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the last cleanup I rode 30K or so (this is two one-way commutes for me) in wet conditions (i.e. in the rain, or close enough after rain to have mud/sand sticking to my legs when I get home).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My chain starts to make more noise than the regular clicking I get just after I cleaned it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had trouble changing gears at some point during my last ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 3 and 4 are basically &quot;error conditions&quot; I usually try to clean it after either 1 or 2 becomes true. Again, this is only for the moving parts. I clean the rest of my bike when I'm already going to clean it and I'm really annoyed by the amount of dirt sticking to my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T09:43:07.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="592" CreationDate="2010-10-11T11:49:17.763" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are you using a helmet? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using it because you're doing something which involves a decent probability of you falling and hitting your head, then you should probably replace it after every serious incident. Some companies (e.g. Giro) will give you a discount if you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madison.co.uk/giro/&quot;&gt;trade in a damaged lid&lt;/a&gt;, so that they can learn from its demise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're commuting or doing something less dangerous, but which offers some scenarios where you think a lid will assist, then you might be less concerned about replacing after every ding. But the helmet is designed to work when pristene; as soon as there is damage, &lt;strong&gt;any damage&lt;/strong&gt;, it won't act in the way that is was designed to, so is going to offer you a sub-optimal service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're just using a helmet because you think you should, although remain generally unconvinced (peer pressure, race rules, certain state/national legal obligations, enhanced air flow around the scalp), then don't worry about it ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T11:49:17.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1547" CreationDate="2010-10-11T15:18:50.783" Score="6" ViewCount="1899" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized Stumpjumper Comp FSR from 2009. My previous bike was a mean-looking matte black Cannondale Jekyll 1000 with a Lefty fork. Now I've got this vanilla, grey boring looking bike that I love to ride but is so boring to look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make this Stumpjumper cooler looking?  The only thing I've done thus far is get some cool new grips and that helps a little. Other ideas for parts to replace? Has anyone had experience with paint jobs?  Any other ideas? ;) I'm willing to put some money into this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I'm looking tips based on what other people have done to make their mountain bikes look cooler — more eye-catching.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="561" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-12T16:39:30.963" LastActivityDate="2010-10-13T01:42:08.080" Title="Mountain bike -- exciting after-market parts, modifications or paint jobs" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;subjective&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1535" CreationDate="2010-10-11T16:35:53.787" Score="15" ViewCount="6517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for suggestions for space efficient stands for parking multiple bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sports club (not cycling) for which I sit on the committee is looking to solve a bit of a problem. At the moment many people come to train in the evenings/weekend by bike and end up piling them up in one of the gym rooms. This has been mostly fine because it's dry, relatively secure and they aren't really in the way. The numbers are increasing, though, and ''something has to be done''. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we're on the search for some stands. We have an amount of outside space that can host some racks, but we want to buy something that can maximise the numbers held, while hopefully still allowing random access (i.e. any bike can be taken away at any time by its owner). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current suggestion is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.esedirect.co.uk/p-2246-the-s-stand-bike-rack.aspx&quot;&gt;http://www.esedirect.co.uk/p-2246-the-s-stand-bike-rack.aspx&lt;/a&gt; - we've space for about five of these style (i.e. ten bikes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel sure that we must be able to fit more bikes into the space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So without knowing the dimensions within which we must work, I'm looking for a few candidate types of solutions which are particularly space efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem I think with these 'S' stands that have been proposed is that, when placed against a wall, I think that the asymmetric nature will mean that, when busy, the slot facing the wall is likely to not be used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must admit that my initial reaction is that you have to argue as to why to not just get the Sheffield stand. The wall mounted option looks like an interesting idea and that was certainly the kind of response I was hoping to get!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:29:16.723" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T12:10:56.447" Title="Suggestions for outdoor commercial (security/parking) stands" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;storage&gt;&lt;parking&gt;&lt;parking-racks&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1529" CreationDate="2010-10-11T16:50:41.143" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need to fit a large number of bikes into a small(ish) space, hanging them on the wall is usually the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest and cheapest route is to mount hooks into the studs which will normally be at 16&quot; centers.  If you want different spacing you can mount a header like a 2x6 or 2x8 to the to the wall and attach the hooks to the header. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a bike cage in our parking garage that we patterned after the plan below. By offsetting the racks/hooks we have space for 18 bikes in what used to be one oversize parking space.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LBtHk.gif&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plan and rack are from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycle-safe.com/WallRacks.tab.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CycleSafe&lt;/a&gt;, and I really like that &quot;tray&quot; style of rack.  I have seen similar rack arrangements at a few local businesses where the racks are mounted to the outside of the building.  This style of wall rack is also nice because you can secure your bike with a standard &quot;U&quot; or cable lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-11T17:04:50.800" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T17:04:50.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1528" CreationDate="2010-10-11T17:01:01.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a couple of frames stripped and powder coated, but I've not really done anything fancy with them.  The cost was around $150 locally for a nice glossy red and a deep black.  I assume that if you wanted fades or gradients that the cost could be significantly higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried an out of state company, but there are several online like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powdercoatstudio.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PowderCoat Studio&lt;/a&gt; that will have you ship your frame to them and they will coat it for you and ship it back in about 2-3 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T17:01:01.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1519" CreationDate="2010-10-11T17:03:36.643" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes!  I use one and would estimate that about 50% of the long distance riders I've met also use Brooks saddles.  They're not for everyone, but the custom fit (after the break-in period) can be very comfortable on long rides.  They're also slightly wider than most saddles sold in bike shops, which I needed to accomodate my sit bones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T17:03:36.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2010-10-11T17:21:47.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used the chain cleaning machines, and while they do seem funny, they do tend to do a pretty good job at it.  I've used a Park CM-2 to clean off dirt, metal shavings, and some pretty serious road grime with great success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWf54.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWf54.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T22:32:55.580" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T22:32:55.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1529" CreationDate="2010-10-11T18:09:25.610" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to beat a “Sheffield” stand, as they make it easy to lock the bike and don’t bend your wheels if the bike is knocked over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p3g3h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sheffield bike stands&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.camcycle.org.uk/resources/cycleparking/types/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cambridge Cycling Campaign did a good write up on the options&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T18:09:25.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1519" CreationDate="2010-10-11T18:18:52.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That picture appears to be the B17 which is the &quot;light weight&quot; touring type saddle, Brooks also makes even more comfortable springed saddles that are great for city, around town riding when you are not wearing biking shorts. They are very popular in EU, especially on more upright style city bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="580" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T18:18:52.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1529" CreationDate="2010-10-11T22:01:00.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recently opened Berkeley Bike Station has a few of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dero.com/products/dero-decker/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;, and I've been quite impressed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9dDdg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're really easy to use, and are the highest bike/sqft solution I've seen.  They also have some of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dero.com/products/ultra_space_saver/ultra_space_saver.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;less fancy ones&lt;/a&gt;, which are similar to the solution suggested by Gary.Ray:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x67by.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T22:01:00.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1482" CreationDate="2010-10-11T22:14:22.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to assume we are dealing w/ a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_i-k.html#jis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;JIS style&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket#Square_taper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;square taper bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt; for this issue. At least, I am going to address it as such. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket#Cartridge_bearing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cartridge style BB&lt;/a&gt; you really have no choice in repairing the less than perfect feel so either accept the roughness and look at a new one next season or switch her out when you feel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket#Loose_bearing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;loose ball&lt;/a&gt; and you are partial to it (ex: ti spindle) the roughness is a sign that you should get on servicing it asap. The roughness can come from contamination of the grease and result in the spindle race pitting and the cup races pitting as well. Once these are pitted you will most likely never get it back to that silky smooth feeling you so desire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, chances are it is a cartridge JIS BB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Domsterr is spot on with the 'lateral' play issue. To add to the recommendation of spinning the cranks I would add the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;take the chain off of the chain rings, when giving it a spin, as the chain will interfere with your ability to assess by ear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;hold the down tube or seat tube and 'feel' for the grinding through the frame. You would be surprised how effective that is. I use it regularly for assessing hub condition. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about all I've got. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-11T22:14:22.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2010-10-12T01:10:00.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go about this as I would my regular chain cleaning with a bit of a variation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would grab a clean rag and apply degreaser onto it. With the chain on large ring/small cog grab the lower portion of the chain with the rag (making sure the chain is contacting the degreaser) and then spin the crank backwards running the chain through the rag. As other answers have indicated this would accomplish removing the material which is holding the sand to the chain (and removing the sand from the outer plates). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having done that I would then be sure to wipe down the pulleys. A small but important detail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the sand removed from the outside plates grab the air hose and (in a well ventilated room w/ a mask of some sort on for safety) position a garbage can below the chain. While moving the chain backwards you blow the compressed air down through the lower chain (blowing the air from the chain stay down through the chain) removing the grit that is on the inner portion of the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the wheel out of the bike and clean the cassette thoroughly otherwise ... pointless endeavor. Remove the chain from the chain rings and wipe these down as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically I will then repeat the first step of wiping down the external portion of the chain with a rag/degreaser combo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricate the chain and you are done. You have removed the schmutz from the chain. Haha. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a toned down version of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/692/what-to-use-to-clean-your-chain-and-cogs&quot;&gt;answer I gave&lt;/a&gt; for a similar question with the added step of the compressed air. I do realize that not everyone has a compressor sitting around but, if you do, indispensable tool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2010-10-12T01:10:00.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1506" CreationDate="2010-10-12T01:32:26.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my world how often you clean really depends on how convenient it is for you to clean your bike and how much you enjoy a clean bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For myself I have a fairly convenient set up so I clean my bike(s), in parts, almost every time I ride. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I go on a ride ('cross ride perhaps) and I come back with a moderately dirty frame and drive train. Knowing it is fall and that if I do a top to bottom job it will only be dirty again tomorrow I simply hang the bike in the stand, turn the hose on it (low pressure working top to bottom, front to back) and remove the majority of the mud etc. Grab a rag, wipe down the chain and re-lubricate. Done. &#xA;If I ride the same bike the next day, after the hosing I might clean the rims and brake pads or fix the bar tape etc. etc. Each day sees something small being tackled resulting in my actual tune ups taking 10-15 minutes tops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my setup that constitutes 3-5 minutes of my life and typically gets done after every ride which gets some sort of road grime on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to operate on the 'clean before anything goes wrong' principle. When you are cleaning your bike you are also inspecting it for wear and tear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, how often do you have to? It all depends on your preference in terms of how you like the bike to operate and how often you ride it (them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-12T01:32:26.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1545" CreationDate="2010-10-12T06:00:16.603" Score="8" ViewCount="6454" Body="&lt;p&gt;My chain just started to slip off my front gears and it happens within a minute of riding. I discovered that the middle sprocket is bent. This leads me to my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much should a LBS charge to fix / replace this? I don't want to get ripped off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would cause the sprocket to bend? The only event that I think could have caused this is I was recently riding down a street very fast. The light turned yellow, so I quickly stopped, attempting to shift down at the same time. I had to stop before I could shift down in time, and this left the chain in a shifting state. When I started up again, the chain fell off for the first time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-12T06:20:42.773" LastActivityDate="2010-10-12T11:02:00.427" Title="Bent front sprocket" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1541" CreationDate="2010-10-12T06:34:03.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, sounds like it might have bent when you were starting while half shifted, basically shifted under extreme load.  I've no idea how much it would cost to fix, but to avoid something like that in the future, you should get used to shifting while stopped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you shift (only one gear at a time!) then stand up, lift your read wheel, and pedal (usually just half a rotation would be enough).  It's easier to do with toe clips/clipless pedals, but it's certainly doable even on platforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often end up having to do this when I try to catch a light, and don't make it - a hard stop before the intersection, in a really high gear.  After a while, it becomes really easy to shift, and make sure you start off at a reasonable gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-12T06:34:03.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1541" CreationDate="2010-10-12T06:40:10.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Admittedlty I've never done it before but changing a front chain ring should be pretty easy to do. You can pick up a new or second hand one on your favourite internet listing/auction site, then it should just be a case of disengaging the chain and undoing the bolts that attach the rings. Or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastActivityDate="2010-10-12T06:40:10.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1541" CreationDate="2010-10-12T08:21:50.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bent the teeth on a front chainring before by accidentally dropping the bike on the ground and it hit a rock just on the end of a tooth.  I was able to bend it back slowly using a pair of pliers, but I would recommend getting the whole ring replaced.  I am unsure as to the price these days, but the thing you need to know when ordering is the BCD - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bolt Centre Diameter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is very easy to replace the rings.  All you need is an Allen key (usually 5mm) and a large slot screwdriver.   You use the Allen key to remove the bolts.  You can then slip the large chainring off the crank arm and then the middle one.  You might have to take the pedals off first to get the middle ring off if it is a small diameter.  When putting the new ring on, you may need to use the large slot screwdriver to stop the bolt from spinning when nearly tight.  There are slots on the back of the &quot;nut&quot; for the slot to go into.  I also like to put some WD-40 on the bolts and nuts before putting them back together, making later removal easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-10-12T08:21:50.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1541" CreationDate="2010-10-12T10:55:59.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before answering your question I will add the caveat that without seeing your problem and without knowing the exact spec of the bike, this 'quote' could be wrong. For one, you might not have replaceable chainrings. But, assuming you do have replaceable chainrings the cost would be somewhere around 30-35$ (10$ labor, 20-25$ for chainring) depending on the quality of the chainring (shift ramps/machining/material). It could be much more if you were to be using something like Shimano XTR or SRAM XX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A way to see if they are replaceable is to inspect the crankset and find either &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File%3aCrank_Set.jpg&quot;&gt;chainring bolts holding the chainrings on&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CR284A01-Fsa+A-Drive+Square+Taper+Crankset.aspx?SSAID=332695&quot;&gt;rivets holding it together&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is riveted the shop might use a slotted screwdriver or a set of channel locks, if possible, to bend the chainring back into place. This depends on the amount of clearance provided by the other chainrings. If that is not possible then they might have to remove the crank arm and hammer it straight using a mallet. With those possibilities in mind it might run you 10-20$ for the fix.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When going to your LBS be sure to identify the issue you want solved and express that you simply want that one problem solved. Often the reason a problem fixed seems more expensive than it should is that the mechanic has to spend the time IDing the issue. Time is money in any business. By identifying the problem right away you have saved time and therefore money. Be sure to get a quote before leaving the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the cause for your bent chainring has been addressed already. Starting from a half shift or shifting under load can cause this. The less expensive the drive train the more likely it is for this to happen. A riveted crankset w/ stamped chainrings will bend quite easily while a more expensive crankset with replaceable chainrings that are not of the stamped variety will be more resistant to bending. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a note, I am in Canada ... therefore this prices might not be entirely reflective of the prices in your specific area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="245" LastEditDate="2010-10-12T11:02:00.427" LastActivityDate="2010-10-12T11:02:00.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1528" CreationDate="2010-10-12T23:13:05.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cool paint job looks great, but if you ride at night, nobody can see it. Reflective tape can be an inexpensive way to decorate a bike, and it's pretty cool-looking:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/wuertele/12063153/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/wuertele/12063153/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot you can do &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/search/?ss=2&amp;amp;ct=6&amp;amp;mt=all&amp;amp;adv=1&amp;amp;w=all&amp;amp;q=bicycle+spoke+lights&amp;amp;m=text&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;with spoke lights&lt;/a&gt; for a truly &quot;illuminating&quot; experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-12T23:13:05.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1528" CreationDate="2010-10-13T01:42:08.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's create something of a (price) ordered list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends on what kind of look you are hoping to achieve.  I would suggest if the bike is a neutral color like yours, you try to find a detail color from, say, a decal, and replicate that in various places over the bike by hunting down the parts that match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process is an endless rabbit hole, after which you realize you would have been better off &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1452/building-from-scratch-vs-buying-new&quot; title=&quot;building your own&quot;&gt;building your own&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even go the &lt;em&gt;best function&lt;/em&gt; route, which may end up looking inconsistent to the uninitiated, but you'll &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; it looks good :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Almost Free&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve caps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean and Polish!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cheapest&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grips, check&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake discs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake pads (caliper brakes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colored bolts (but be careful - because they are normally aluminium and significantly weaker)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebar end caps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different color chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Middling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle with Shiny bits or Brooks, according to preference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cranks and rings, shiny, anodised or matt, machined or forged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame repaint (strip, sand blast, powdercoat or automotive paint, sealer/clearcoat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Crazy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All the parts have to be made of Titanium and/or Carbon Fiber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there's plenty more that I've just forgotten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="396" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2010-10-13T01:42:08.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1554" CreationDate="2010-10-13T17:20:41.607" Score="5" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are black and blue, are not light, however what is one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you had any experience of using one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-27T13:13:44.200" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T13:13:44.200" Title="What is a “Boris bike”?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;london&gt;&lt;sharing-scheme&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1555" CreationDate="2010-10-13T17:23:57.847" Score="35" ViewCount="12746" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people seem take up cycling to get fit, and they'll talk about how light their bikes are.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as I understand it, a heavy bike uses more energy to pedal it. Should someone that wished to get fit find a very heavy bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:55:33.293" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T01:04:03.350" Title="I wish to get fit, therefore should I have a heavy bike?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1567" CreationDate="2010-10-13T17:27:03.317" Score="5" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a system in Paris that will let me rent a bike to get across town, if so how does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T06:48:14.320" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T06:48:14.320" Title="How can I rent a bike in Paris (France) for a short time?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1568" CreationDate="2010-10-13T17:28:31.730" Score="3" ViewCount="1214" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I take a bike on the Tube (underground) in London, if so how much does it cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T14:58:38.390" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T08:43:02.873" Title="What are the rules about take a bike on the London Tube?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;public-transportation&gt;&lt;london&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1565" CreationDate="2010-10-13T17:48:43.890" Score="3" ViewCount="947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have more than once had to spend time looking for my bike at the station, what’s your method to remember the rack you put it in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any town have a system of numbering or labelling the bike racks so it is easy to find your bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/77E4M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:29:41.870" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T12:24:06.327" Title="How do you remember which rack you have left your bike in?" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;parking&gt;&lt;parking-racks&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2010-10-13T18:11:09.637" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;A heavier bike may not handle as well as a lighter bike, and can be less enjoyable to ride. It's more fun to ride farther and faster, so a lighter bike is probably more likely to be used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you can make a bike heavier by hauling stuff on it, it's hard to make a bike lighter! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest that someone who wanted to get in shape pedal further and faster on a lighter bike, and search out lots of hills! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-13T18:11:09.637" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1548" CreationDate="2010-10-13T18:15:43.593" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a bike sharing scheme in London, the &quot;Boris&quot; part comes from the mayor's name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barclays_Cycle_Hire&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on Barclays Cycle Hire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's also a small &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.borisbikes.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boris Bikes community forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D8FB7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/stewdean/4941349972/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Photo credit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-13T18:22:55.797" LastActivityDate="2010-10-13T18:22:55.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2010-10-13T18:23:23.800" Score="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume that your definition of &quot;get fit&quot; is to lose weight and develop aerobic fitness. I'm also going to assume that the person in question is rather unfit to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, a person can get fit (or not) on either a heavy or light bike; it will really depend on how they go about their fitness program. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To achieve aerobic or cardiovascular fitness one needs to engage in an activity that elevates the heart rate to a target zone and keep it there for periods of time. To lose weight, one must burn more energy (calories) than one consumes. In order to do this the activity needs to be done on a regular basis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to the weight of the bike... Say a person can choose either a 15lb road bike, a 25lb mountain bike, or a 35lb commuter bike for their fitness program. It makes absolutely no difference which bike they choose in order to lose weight and develop aerobic fitness. The only thing that matters will be how they use the bike. So to get fit, the choice of bike would depend more on the type of use a person desires rather than the weight of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also drawbacks to choosing a heavier bike for the sake of it being heavier. One is that it would be harder on the knees of an unfit person, and even a fit person, if they have to climb hills. Another is that it's just plain harder to have to lug around. And also, it would be much less enjoyable once the person gets fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second job is working as a fitness trainer. If a client came to me wanting to get fit with cycling, I &lt;em&gt;would not&lt;/em&gt; recommend that they get a 'heavy' bike. I &lt;em&gt;would recommend that they get the best bike they can reasonably afford, based on the type of riding that they prefer to do.&lt;/em&gt; I would also probably recommend that they start out with steady, regular riding and build up to interval training. &lt;em&gt;The question is about getting a heavy bike for fitness; and I'd say no, don't get a heavy bike for fitness. Get a bike that will be frequently ridden.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a trainer I've had several clients who turned to cycling for fitness reasons. One of them got an 'urban' bike decked out with fenders, rear rack, panniers, etc and proceeded to lose 30lbs and otherwise improve her fitness with a daily 16 mile RT commute, plus weekend fun rides. Another client went with an expensive, light road bike; he managed to burn off 25lbs, and 6 months later rode his first century. So, the weight of the bike shouldn't be the determining factor. Like others have said, it should be about the fun and enjoyment and finding a style of riding that'll be sustained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-10-14T08:27:29.593" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T08:27:29.593" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1559" CreationDate="2010-10-13T18:58:14.270" Score="14" ViewCount="15065" Body="&lt;p&gt;My LED lights seem to be causing my wireless cycling computer to not pickup the signal (suggested by the manufacturer and verified through tests at home).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What strategies/options are there for reducing the interference outside of repositioning the computer (since I've tried all available positions)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2020-01-02T14:03:49.343" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T14:03:49.343" Title="Stopping interference between LED lights and wireless cycling computer" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1552" CreationDate="2010-10-13T21:15:34.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the fact that your bike is the only one you'll be able to unlock, the best thing for you to do is park in the same location every day. That can be an invitation to have your bike stolen, however. You can either: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make your bike easily distinguishable from the crowd. Putting something brightly-colored on the bars might help, attaching a safety flag to the rear rack would be even better. Either of these calls attention to your bike, again this is something inviting bike theft. You could jot down a note to yourself for later -- &quot;bike 3 arches down from the big ugly tree&quot;, for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do is &lt;strong&gt;find three or four medium-traffic parking locations and rotate among them&lt;/strong&gt;. That way I'd only have a few places to search, but I wouldn't be using the same spot over and over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-13T21:15:34.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2010-10-13T21:41:06.603" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;To a large extent the comment by @wdypdx22 is correct.  The primary exception being if you are working out in a hilly area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight or mass of the bike and rider makes a big difference in the initial acceleration, but once moving on flat ground inertial effects take over.  While most riders do all they can to keep from starting and stopping frequently, &lt;strong&gt;you can make your workout harder simply by doing repeated quick intervals.  Slow to 5-8 mph, then sprint to 20 + for 30 seconds - lather, rinse, repeat&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once rolling at a fairly consistent velocity you are primarily trying to overcome the frictional drag from the tires, and aerodynamic resistance from trying to push yourself through the air.  That's why you can only expect a 2-3% gain in speed at the same effort when you switch from a mountain bike (with slicks) to a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are cycling on the flats and want to make your workout harder, you can lower the pressure in your tires or use knobbies (watch for pinch flats) and wear loose, flapping clothes like a parachute.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going uphill, the story changes significantly.  The effort to lift you and your bike up a grade in watts is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Watts = M*g*[Sin(Arctan(grade))]*V&#xA;where:&#xA;V = Speed (Velocity)&#xA;M = Mass (Weight of you and your bike in Kg)&#xA;g = The gravitational acceleration constant (9.8)&#xA;grade = % grade. A hill that rises 4.5 ft over 100 ft has a 4.5% grade&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If we assume a mass of 87Kg (about 190 lbs) and a slope of 4.5 which feels steep for most people,  riding at 200 watts your speed will be about 10 mph. Of the 200 watts, ~170 are expended in lifting your Mass upward, and ~30 watts are expended moving you forward.  Increasing or decreasing the Mass can make a much bigger difference on the hills.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article is a great explanation of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/The_Physics_of_Moving_a_Bike_163.html&quot;&gt;physics of a moving bicycle&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-14T03:08:40.410" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T03:08:40.410" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1556" CreationDate="2010-10-13T21:52:39.377" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because the items are going to have to remain in close proximity, it's unlikely that there is anything that will completely solve your problem, but there are a couple of things you can try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lights are wired, it is possible that the wire is working as an antenna, and you can use a Ferrite Choke or two on the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyrl2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ferrite choke&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tape one near where the wire leaves the battery, and another to where the wire lead plugs into the light.  The can be found at stores like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&amp;amp;kw=ferrite&amp;amp;origkw=ferrite&amp;amp;sr=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RadioShack&lt;/a&gt; for a few bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lights are wireless, aluminum and tin foil is an excellent reflector for this kind of Electro-Magnetic Interference (EMI).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step would be to see if foil will help.  Try wrapping the outside of the lights with foil and repeating the tests you did before.  I doubt you can add foil to the computer because this will interfere with it picking up the wireless signal from the sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that reduces the interference you can tape the foil to the lights, carefully cutting away the foil around mounting brackets and buttons and see if the EMI is still reduced.  If the lights can be easily disassembled you can try taking them apart and lining the interior with foil as well; take care not to short out the internal electronics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-13T22:10:24.767" LastActivityDate="2010-10-13T22:10:24.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-13T22:08:08.357" Score="5" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been cycling for about six months now, and am looking to get into some distance cycling and want to get my speed up on my commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently ride a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/archive/2009/vienna/globevienna1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Globe Vienna&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and was wondering if it was worth upgrading my current bike or just biting the bullet and buying a new road/racing bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help/advice would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Tom " LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T00:58:25.573" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T00:58:25.573" Title="Upgrade my Globe Vienna for commuting and distance riding, or look for a new bike?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;upgrade-or-new-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2010-10-13T22:18:23.337" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A person might burn more calories per km with a heavy bike, but the lighter and possibly more fun bike will make the ride enjoyable. If the person has fun, it will help for developing an active life-style which will be better in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And burning calories is nice, but you want to get that heart pumping. The same person might reach his target bpm at 15 km/h on the heavy bike and at 25 km/h on the light one. In the end it's all good cardiovascular exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-10-13T22:18:23.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1560" CreationDate="2010-10-13T22:27:56.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two upgrades which make the biggest difference are the wheels and the frame itself. (I know, better shifting is fun but it won't change your speed/distance much) You could also look at getting better tires, but since you have a commuting bike they should already be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the price of a good wheel set you might be better off with a complete bike. Now the type of bike really depends on the road you're cycling on. You mention commuting, if the majority of your time is spent riding in the city you'll enjoy a higher-end commuter more than a race bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since you started cycling quite recently, you'll probably get faster with time as your &quot;bike muscles&quot; and your cardio get better. I don't know how fit you were to begin with or how frequently you've ridden your bike in the last 6 months, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-10-14T00:45:34.807" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T00:45:34.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1560" CreationDate="2010-10-14T00:05:56.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mentioned long distance ridding.  Here is what I would be thinking about: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comfort&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I think about comfort there are two things that I think about.  Most importantly I think about handlebars and more specifically how many places you have to put your hands.  Drop bars are nice because you get three positions, but I don't like drops when I am riding socially.  Check out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1195/different-kinds-of-handlebars&quot;&gt;handle bar page&lt;/a&gt; to have a look at your options.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also thinking about your saddle will be pretty important.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Point: probably it is possible to upgrade your bars and saddle to achieve a more comfortable ride&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put on some slick tires &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight of the bike is important (especially in hilly areas) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How aerodynamic can you become on the bike? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cargo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will you want to mount saddle bags?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many water bottles can your bike hold?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I do longer rides I usually bring along a friend.  What will your friends be riding?  You don't want to have a bike that is too fast (or too slow).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of terrain are you going to be riding over?  Do you want to have slick tires (and narrow wheels) or wider tires?  Will you be riding in winter?  Most road bikes do not have enough room for studded tires.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you going to leave you bike locked up outside (while you are at work, getting groceries, etc)?  You don't want to have to worry &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt; about your bike.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T00:11:38.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2010-10-14T03:52:27.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need the bike that you will ride.  You should make your choice based upon how much of an impact it will have in &lt;strong&gt;how often&lt;/strong&gt; you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are heavy (220lbs or more), you might want a heavier, more solid bike.  Something that you can feel a bit more secure on and something which will creak less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention what types of rides you like.  I rode for a couple years in and around a small down.  I was constantly hopping up on curbs, bunny hopping potholes crossing railroad tracks.  I went for a steel frame bike without regard to weight.  A hybrid would have worked just as well probably, but I got double duty out of mine on weekend rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only plan to go out on the road, a good light bike seems to make things more effortless, and that might encourage you to ride more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as energy used up, it really doesn't matter.  Gearing will allow you to put forth the same effort just a slightly different speeds depending on the bike weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a firm believer of &quot;The easiest way to take a half pound off your bike is to lose half a pound.&quot;  I don't buy light and expensive anything until it is race time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T03:52:27.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1552" CreationDate="2010-10-14T08:38:07.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In these kind of situations I use the tips that a guru taught me when I was learning the ways of triathlon. In the transition area, where you leave your bike to collect at the end of the swim, you are quite often assigned a spot for your number (otherwise everyone clamours for the ends of rows). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's about landmarks, &quot;3rd row, lake-side, half way down, past the second tree&quot;, and memorable things, so the the flag (or strategically placed towel) is a good idea too. Don't make the mistake of using temporary, movable landmarks. That nice Cervelo might well have come out of the water (or work) before you :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key takeawayss here are to make them instantly and accurately memorable. If you're in the same area day after day you don't want to to get too confused about whether you're remembering yesterday's or today's position, so @neilfein's rotation of possible locations is a good feint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In triathlon you're trying to keep it simple (because your mind is inherently fuzzy when you're out of the water and trying to peel off a wetsuit), and at the end of a long day you probably haven't given much thought to your bike since about 2 minutes after you left it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is in a secure area in an underground car park, so I leave my helmet on the saddle which is generally still there, un-knocked-off, at the end of the day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T08:38:07.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1529" CreationDate="2010-10-14T09:25:25.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dutch cycling association has instituded a quality mark for bicycle stands called fietsparkeur (a contraction of the dutch words for bicycle, parking and quality mark) getting the mark means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't damage your bike directly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They allow bikes to be removed easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are vandalism proof.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietsparkeur.nl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which has english information at the bottom, and a list of producers &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietsparkeur.nl/licenties.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The model called &quot;tulip&quot; produced by VelopA is my favorite. It is used for the streetside bicycle parking facilities near almost all dutch train stations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1529/suggestions-for-outdoor-commercial-security-parking-stands/1537#1537&quot;&gt;linked by Zigdon here&lt;/a&gt; is very nice, the best for space efficiency I would say, but not suited for a public space because they can be wrecked relatively easily. If they'll be behind a fence during the night you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, to boost the credibility of my suggestions, check &lt;a href=&quot;http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&amp;amp;biw=1244&amp;amp;bih=771&amp;amp;gbv=2&amp;amp;tbs=isch%3A1&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;q=fietsenstalling&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;aqi=&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;oq=&amp;amp;gs_rfai=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for reference material about the type of issues we're dealing with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2017-07-14T12:10:56.447" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T12:10:56.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1550" CreationDate="2010-10-14T09:31:34.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're looking for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velib.paris.fr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vélib&lt;/a&gt; I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velib.paris.fr/content/download/3122/27013/version/3/file/V%C3%A9lib%27+-+English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;English explanation of the system.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2010-10-15T11:55:30.137" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T11:55:30.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1551" CreationDate="2010-10-14T09:44:34.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/cycling/cycling-in-london/bikes-on-public-transport&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Transport for London page on Bikes on Public Transport&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the tube, folding bikes are good anywhere at any time.  Non-folders are restricted to only certain lines - in most cases these are lines that have no deep below ground tracks - and certain times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To a certain extent it is going to be up to the station/train staff.  I've travelled on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1613/what-are-the-rules-about-take-a-bike-on-london-dockland-light-railway-dlr&quot;&gt;DLR&lt;/a&gt; with my bike in the past, before I realised they have a total ban (I was dismissed from the train, which sucked because I'd had a few to drink and was trying to avoid cycling home).  If in any doubt, or trying to wing it, its always worth asking before you enter the station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="601" LastEditorUserId="28770" LastEditDate="2019-08-18T08:43:02.873" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T08:43:02.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2010-10-14T09:48:18.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone wanting to get fit by cycling should just &lt;strong&gt;get on a bike and start cycling&lt;/strong&gt;. Heavier or lighter doesn't make a difference with the getting fit part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the lightness part is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you compete in races and want to be competitive, your bike has to be as light as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You go faster while spending the same amount of energy, thus, if you're cycling with a group you'll have an easier time keeping up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can go faster, which tends to be more fun (though it could also get scary).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is easier in hilly areas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spending money on your hobby is fun. Striving for lightness is the best way to spend money is cycling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The large amount of money invested in the light bike works as an external motivation for some people to keep cycling (or the significant other complaining about it will be).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T09:48:18.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1552" CreationDate="2010-10-14T10:15:34.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Decorate your bike so that it stands out a bit. I usually paint the rear mudguard a bright colour and attach something colourfull to my handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I try to park my bicycle in the same row each day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T10:15:34.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="338" CreationDate="2010-10-14T10:15:48.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some knowledge might be a good emergency kit. I straightened a wheel by hitting against the lawn after being run over by a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1396/what-tips-do-you-have-for-making-temporary-get-me-home-repairs&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T10:15:48.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1552" CreationDate="2010-10-14T10:46:18.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use your phone to take a photo of your bike location, being sure to get some easy to find landmarks in the photo as well. E.g. if you had just taken the photo above and your bike is the front centre one, those two trees should be fairly easy to find again when you come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it still takes a while to find (or the search area is very big) and your phone has GPS, you can probably tag the photo with the location as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T10:46:18.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-10-14T11:13:10.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can straighten a bent wheel by hitting the lawn (or something soft -- not to damage the braking surface). You need to take it in hands on 8:00-4:00 with the bulge pointing downwards and hit appropriately hard. Repeat few times correcting for the bulge position and direction until you can ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did that twice and both wheels are still in use. One of those is so true (after some spoke tweaking), that you would never say that it was bend to the point it wouldn't go through the fork. The brake pads leave less than 1mm space on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T11:13:10.980" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-14T11:13:10.980" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-14T11:22:32.827" Score="10" ViewCount="3719" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the years I have seen a few people transport a dog on a bike.  What options have you seen?   Please include a photo in your answer if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T23:37:11.573" LastActivityDate="2019-11-17T23:51:45.277" Title="How do you carry a dog on a bike?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;animals&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-10-14T11:34:42.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Brisbane, Australia&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brisbane has a bike hire service called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brisbane.qld.gov.au/traffic-transport/cycling/citycycle/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CityCycle&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CityCycle is an active and sustainable public transport option aimed at reducing traffic congestion and parking pressures in the inner city, as cars are replaced by cycle trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The city has also built an 'end-of-trip facility' called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brisbane.qld.gov.au/traffic-transport/cycling/king-george-square-cycle-centre/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;King George Square Cycle Centre&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;420 individual bike racks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;male and female change rooms with a total of 35 showers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;lockers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ironing/laundry service&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;excellent security&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastEditorUserId="568" LastEditDate="2011-05-24T23:55:35.337" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T23:55:35.337" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-14T11:34:42.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1575" CreationDate="2010-10-14T11:59:54.377" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just googled &quot;Bike Dog trailer&quot; and got tonnes of results.  I have heard that trailers from &quot;WIKE&quot; are good.  Here is a pic of their biggest dog trailer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pw7hs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wike trailer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen a few DIY dog trailers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this quite a bit.  The dog is just tied in so they don't jump around but they still get a good view.  Found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketrailerblog.com/2010/06/bob%E2%80%99s-diy-bike-trailer-solutions-part-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bike Trailer Blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CXNFC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;diy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the option to mount the dog's crate onto the trailer.  I have seen lots of pictures of these. Basically you just need to put some bolts through the flatbed of the trailer. This is a more professional example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tonystrailers.com/dog/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from Tony's Trailers&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2BFd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tony trailers example&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess in theory you could also put a small dog in your front basket, but I would not do that.  If the dog moves around that will make your bike unstable, also the dog may try to jump out causing a crash.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2019-11-16T12:50:10.490" LastActivityDate="2019-11-16T12:50:10.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-10-14T13:00:31.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Washington, D.C.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...just started a bike share, and of course it has to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inhabitat.com/2010/09/21/washington-dc-launches-largest-bikeshare-in-us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the largest in the US&lt;/a&gt;.  I prefer to measure size by 'number of bikes being used per day/week/month' rather than 'number of bikes available in the system'.  (Maybe there should be a per capita normalization, too.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, the Greater DC area is an excellent place to ride a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="555" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T02:50:24.110" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-14T13:00:31.720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1580" CreationDate="2010-10-14T15:27:13.520" Score="15" ViewCount="1117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I frequently come to stop lights in which there is an all-way stop and a pedestrian signal. I always stop at such lights, but I'm wondering if I should then bike slowly across after determining that it is safe and I will not be interfering with any pedestrians who are crossing, or if I should wait until the light turns green just as I would were I driving a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T09:32:46.787" Title="If I'm riding on the road, and there is a red light but a walk signal in my direction, should I go?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1579" CreationDate="2010-10-14T15:35:27.463" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only cross if you are walking and pushing your bike.  If you are riding, you are a vehicle and generally you are required to obey all traffic control devices in the same way any other vehicle operator is. There are exceptions, like the Idaho Yield laws, but generally you have to behave like a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to think about is that the more you behave like a vehicle, the more predictable you are, and the more predictable the behavior of other vehicle operators will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T15:35:27.463" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1579" CreationDate="2010-10-14T15:35:37.820" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure it's illegal.  Of course, different areas might have different laws on the matter, but the guideline is &quot;if you're riding your bike, you're a vehicle and should obey all the same rules&quot;.  I suppose if you wanted to cross on the crosswalk, you could dismount, and &lt;em&gt;walk&lt;/em&gt; your bike across, but I doubt that's worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T15:35:37.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1588" CreationDate="2010-10-14T15:49:18.113" Score="17" ViewCount="1502" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commute takes me on a bike path that runs parallel to a road (with a sidewalk in between). When crossing other roads, the sidewalk and bike path merge, and there is one curb-cut and cross walk with a pedestrian signal. Unless you actually press the button to cross, there will be a green light on the parallel road but a &quot;don't walk&quot; signal for the crosswalk. Should I go anyhow? Should I come to a full stop before doing so, or simply slow down to pedestrian speed and check carefully for turning cars before doing so? Or should I press the button and wait for the pedestrian light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out how &quot;same road, same rules&quot; actually works in practice; the problem is, there are no specific rules for bicycles on bike paths which share crossings with pedestrian crossings, and of course you can't apply the same rules as for cars since cars can't use bike paths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify, since there seems to be some confusion about the setup of the intersection, there will sometimes be a green light on the road parallel to the bike path, with a &quot;Don't Walk&quot; sign for the crosswalk, and there will sometimes be a green light on the road parallel to the bike path, with a &quot;Walk&quot; sign for the crosswalk (possibly based on whether someone has pushed the button, or possibly based on the timing, I'm not sure). That is, there are times when there's a green light on the parallel road, and cars may turn, but pedestrians (and presumably bikes) are encouraged to cross, and some times when there is a green light on the parallel road, cars may turn, but pedestrians are encouraged not to cross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLld0.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7VHa5.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="454" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T02:59:48.183" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T13:22:09.763" Title="In shared bicycle/pedestrian facilities next to a road, do I obey the pedestrian or the vehicle traffic control devices?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1579" CreationDate="2010-10-14T15:52:48.303" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Netherlands it is illegal unless signs explicitly indicate that it isn't, but I'd cross, taking care not to hit or even scare any pedestrians. Traffic lights are too heavy handed for bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2010-10-15T11:56:59.517" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T11:56:59.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2010-10-14T16:18:31.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would stop and dismount, or at least slow down to walking pace. What I see too often are cyclists riding on sidewalks heading against traffic at crossings. It is difficult for drivers travelling the same direction and making left turns to see them, as they are in the driver's far right blindspot. Since you're off the road, it's a good idea to give drivers more opportunity to see you before you enter the crossing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the more direct reason is that if you've been merged with the sidewalk crossing, then the rule to dismount takes precedent (if this rule exists in your jurisdiction). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T16:18:31.663" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2010-10-14T16:24:45.627" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Echoing what others have said, anything that gets you riding trumps all else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would ride to work, but not in the wet, &lt;strong&gt;fenders&lt;/strong&gt; will help you get fit. If that's what it takes to get you riding, that's the most important thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you wear a suit at work? Drive your car 1 day / week, so you &lt;strong&gt;can keep fresh clothes at the office.&lt;/strong&gt; Suddenly driving 1 day / week is the key to fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you do grocery trips by bike? Set yourself up with removable &lt;strong&gt;panniers&lt;/strong&gt;. Carry them in to the store with you, and put the groceries directly in them at the register.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have young kids? Get a tandem-style &lt;strong&gt;trailer&lt;/strong&gt; or a sitting-style trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you live in a hilly area? If that stops you from riding, get an &lt;strong&gt;electric-assist&lt;/strong&gt; bike, preferably one that requires you to pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike that is built to be super-light might be exhilarating to ride, until your carbon fiber forks collapse, or your radial-spoked wheel tacos.  As a Clydesdale, most frames flex under me so much that I don't enjoy riding them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forcing yourself to ride when it's not fun only works for a short time. Soon you'll undermine yourself. For me, at least, this is why &quot;exercise programs&quot; and &quot;diets&quot; don't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Figure out what it takes for you to ride, and do that.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T16:24:45.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="502" CreationDate="2010-10-14T16:24:53.007" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because the pack is moving swiftly and you're so close to the wheels in front, you have to have implicit confidence in those in front of you, and those in front have a duty of care to those following them. So clear hand signals and appropriate calls are key. You shouldn't have to put up with whatever comes at you, common courtesy should mean that you should be able to avoid the worst of the potholes and similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the good advice about pack position and so on, you should expect to see and use some of signals: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to warn of impeding obstacles (parked cars, slower cyclists, etc.) you'll use the opposite hand, behind your back and point away from the impediment. So if you're drifting right, use your left hand to point to the right. And vice versa. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;major turns (e.g. starting from the route commander) might give proper arm/hand signals - especially from the back of the pack to following traffic. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if there are pot-holes coming, physically point &lt;strong&gt;at&lt;/strong&gt; them and following them with your hand while you avoid them &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if a car is approaching from behind, shout it forward so that the pack can thin out and become narrower to aid being overtaken &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;similarly if going down a narrow road and meet a car coming the other way, shout it back &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when approaching a junction, if you see it's clear, don't just hammer through, make an explicit shout as to whether it is clear or not - &quot;Clear&quot; means no guess work. &quot;Car Right/Left&quot; is also very helpful. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when you're at the front and the new guy replacing you is coming from the back, when they've passed you, tell them &quot;clear&quot;, so they don't have to guess&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when you're at the back and the line is rotating the other way (i.e. people roll off the front and go to the back) if you're the last man at the back and someone's about to fall behind you and become the new last man, say &quot;last man&quot; so they don't have to guess about how many more there might (or might not) be. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My club also publishes a short overview of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pearsoncycles.co.uk/files/rules-etiquette.pdf&quot;&gt;rules and ettiquette&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2010-10-15T13:40:04.157" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T13:40:04.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2010-10-14T16:37:27.137" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I think that's a crappy design for a bike path, and I would just ride in the road instead.  A bike path like that is great for a weekend ride, but for a daily commute, it just wouldn't cut it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that road isn't safe to ride in, I'd try to find a different route.  And if that's not an option, I suppose I would probably ride against the pedestrian light, slowing down to make sure it's safe to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T16:37:27.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2010-10-14T16:39:47.900" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most state laws in the US are based on the Uniform Motor Vehicle code.  Usually there will be specific language that states if you are a cyclist on the road, you obey the laws that apply to vehicles, and if you are a cyclist on &quot;pedestrian facilities&quot; eg. sidewalks, sidepaths or multi-use trails, you obey the laws as they apply to pedestrians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also usually phrasing that you must obey &quot;traffic control devices&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case if you are on the path, crossing a roadway and continuing on the path, from a legal standpoint you most likely have to obey the signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a practical standpoint, ask yourself &quot;As a pedestrian, what would I do here?&quot;, since the pedestrian rules are what most likely apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit after O.P. added the picture:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am not in the road traveling like a vehicle before the intersection, I would absolutely behave like a pedestrian here - especially if there are similar trees on this side.  &lt;strong&gt;Any car turning right is going to be barely aware of pedestrians and won't be looking for bikes at all.&lt;/strong&gt;  An on coming car turning left has the same problem, but at least you have a chance to see and avoid them. Their awareness will be even lower if the crosswalk sign indicates &quot;Don't Walk&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to ride out at even 10 MPH you will catch most drivers completely by surprise.  This is one of the most common types of collisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-14T22:07:55.690" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T22:07:55.690" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="338" CreationDate="2010-10-14T17:23:34.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember to bring tools that are specific to the bike you are riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took one of my fat tire bikes up to an event. On the way there, I got a flat, which wouldn't be a problem, except that that bike had theft-prevention skewers on the wheels that only a specific wrench can unlock, a wrench I didn't have with me. I couldn't remove the wheel to fix the flat. This would not have been an issue on my regular commute because there are bike shops on the way, or I could easily catch a bus home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kit on most of my bikes includes:&#xA;patch kit&#xA;tire irons&#xA;4/5/6 Allen keys&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have decent frame pumps from another era. The ones they have now, including CO2, are only meant to get you limping again, but they're often better than nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also something to be said for swallowing your pride and making a phone call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="603" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T17:23:34.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1591" CreationDate="2010-10-14T17:27:48.390" Score="25" ViewCount="7736" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I take my twins to preschool by car, and I'd like to switch to doing it by bike.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a hill, and we're heavy, and I'm not in great shape, so it's hard. I've done it a few times, but I always collapse when I get home, and I certainly don't have the energy to do it twice (drop-off + pick-up). I take a while to recover. It takes a lot longer, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also would like to always bike to the grocery store and other errands, but they are within the range of the preschool, so let's focus on that one for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at &lt;strong&gt;electric-assist bikes&lt;/strong&gt; as a way to overcome the hurdle and starting doing this trip by bike (almost) every time. I've seen bolt-on hub-motor systems for as little as $300, and Big Dummy + Stoke Monkey setups for $3000+.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Data:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike + trailer + me + passengers weigh &lt;strong&gt;430 lbs&lt;/strong&gt;. There's a 230' climb on the way there, and 110' climb on the way back. I can drive it in &lt;strong&gt;4 minutes&lt;/strong&gt; but biking takes &lt;strong&gt;20 minutes&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How much motor (and how much battery) do I need to invest in?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-14T17:53:18.453" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T17:06:33.327" Title="How much motor do I need for my electric-assist bike?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1590" CreationDate="2010-10-14T17:49:49.927" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;A highly trained competitive cyclist can ride at ~ 350-400 watts of power output for a 2 hour ride.  So adding a 400 watt electric assist motor is roughly equivalent to adding a competitive cyclist 'stoker' to your rig.  The speed and battery size make a big difference but here are some rules of thumb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some motors are measured in horsepower, rather than watts.  1/2 horsepower is roughly equal to 400 watts for this use.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A 400-watt motor will usually be sufficient for the average rider. Your rig is a little heavier, so you might want to go with higher watts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On a typical 400 watt rig, two 12-volt, 12 amp-hour batteries will take an average rider 10 miles at 15 mph or up a hill that's 800 feet tall.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To go faster (assuming you haven't maxed out the watts) or further, you need to increase the battery - range is proportional, so twice the battery size = twice the range at the same speed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are companies like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.econvergence.net/emb.htm&quot;&gt;Convergence Tech&lt;/a&gt; that sell kits for motors in the 1 horsepower range that are pretty easy to add to an existing bike if you are mechanically inclined.  That range is probably more than sufficient for your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that some areas limit the top speed or the available power for electric or gas-assisted bicycles.  I've seen speed limits of 25-30 mph and power limits as low as 500 watts.  You will want to check with your local road or transportation department to make sure you comply with local regulations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-14T18:02:47.707" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T18:02:47.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-14T18:17:26.183" Score="8" ViewCount="2790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a new tire. It has big white labeling on each side which I don't like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know any method to remove this white text from the tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8T1WT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="606" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T16:19:47.830" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T23:03:36.450" Title="How to remove branding from tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1592" CreationDate="2010-10-14T18:23:15.457" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the words of the Rolling Stones: Paint It Back. You may need to experiment to find something durable but it should be quite easy to find something suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T18:23:15.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1592" CreationDate="2010-10-14T18:38:48.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.millertire.com/repairs.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This option&lt;/a&gt; might be more money than it is worth. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.niagaralubricant.com/0839TirePaint.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This option&lt;/a&gt; as well might be more money than it is worth ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the question is ... HOW much does this bother you? 5 gallons of paint worth of bother? Hahah. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T18:38:48.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1600" CreationDate="2010-10-14T18:44:31.867" Score="6" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like most bicycle parts, chains have a pretty wide price range. What are the factors weighting in on the price of a chain ? (Other than width/bike-compatibility characteristics)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-14T19:23:55.390" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T19:23:55.390" Title="What factors affect the price of a chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;price&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1599" CreationDate="2010-10-14T18:45:54.547" Score="4" ViewCount="6440" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need a folding bike to do this? What are the rules? Also, even if it's allowed, is it practical to do so? Subways get pretty crowded during rush-hour, and it's hard to imagine taking a bike there even if it's allowed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T02:35:09.133" Title="Can I take my bike on the New York City subway or buses?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;public-transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1560" CreationDate="2010-10-14T18:46:31.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be blunt. If you want to go faster and you are interested in road cycling, buy a different bike. No matter what you do to the bike you have, which is an excellent hybrid, it will never be a road bike. It will always be a nice hybrid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The #1 issue you need to deal with when road cycling is fit and a flat bar hybrid will rarely give you the proper fit you need to increase your speed and maintain your comfort over the long term. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for something more durable than a pure road bike then I would recommend perhaps looking at a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclo-cross_bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cyclocross bike&lt;/a&gt; which will fit most of your needs. I would only caution against the 'cross bike if high intensity group rides are going to be a part of your future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T18:46:31.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1595" CreationDate="2010-10-14T19:06:10.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing, just like every other component on a bike, the two factors are durability and weight.  Basically, a titanium chain will be a lot lighter and stronger than a steel one, but at a higher price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just like every other component, you should consider how much do you care about shaving a few grams off your bike vs the price, and how much of a beating you expect it to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T19:06:10.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1596" CreationDate="2010-10-14T19:10:16.993" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mta.info/bike/&quot;&gt;allowed&lt;/a&gt; on the subways at all times, but the MTA suggests against taking your bike on the subway during rush hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bicycles are permitted on Subway trains at all times. However, we strongly recommend that cyclists avoid boarding crowded rush hour trains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Folding_bicycle&quot;&gt;Folding bicycles&lt;/a&gt; are permitted on all trains and busses except for express busses. Once folded, a bicycle is really no larger than most other luggage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When taking bicycles on the train, be courteous and use common sense. Don't bring a bicycle into a car that's too crowded. Let people out before getting in. Don't block the doors, keep control of your bike so it doesn't roll into anyone when the train starts or stops, and be aware of when people need to get by. I only ever take my bike on a train if there's enough room for everyone to sit; if it's crowded enough that people have to stand, it might be getting too crowded for a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more tips, see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mta.info/nyct/safety/bike/&quot;&gt;MTA Bicycle Safety tips&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mta.info/bike/&quot;&gt;detailed rules&lt;/a&gt; on when you can bring a bicycle on the train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T19:10:16.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1595" CreationDate="2010-10-14T19:10:30.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Material: The material of which the chain is made of affects the price greatly. Titanium chains, while not common, are ridiculous in terms of price. Often, in terms of material, it is the 'finish' of the chain that can affect its (claimed) performance and thus its price. For example a DA 7700 chain is nickel plated, DA 7800 has a zinc alloy etc etc. These are claimed to increase life span and reduce corrosion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight: As posted above, the less you get, the more you pay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technology: Hollow pins, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/news_and_info/news/shimano_introduces0.html&quot;&gt;unidirectional chains that improve chain pickup&lt;/a&gt; etc. can increase the price of a chain as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly. Name. Campagnolo is still silly expensive for being a chain that is no better than that (arguable, I know) of comparable brands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T19:10:30.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1603" CreationDate="2010-10-14T20:34:13.020" Score="22" ViewCount="6166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute and want to draft another bike, but still have room to stop when someone opens a car door in front of the rider in front of me. At what distance does drafting significantly reduce drag? Are there factors other than following distance that influence drafting efficacy (wind direction, etc)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a question about whether the drafting while riding through urban environments is a good or bad idea. I know that it is probably a bad idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="553" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T10:51:19.427" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T23:28:09.373" Title="How close do I have to be for effective drafting (while commuting)?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;skills&gt;&lt;drafting&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:27:05.390" Score="46" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Door Zone&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The area next to parked cars that a suddenly opened door would cover.  A hazard that you should avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/garyseven/4864758261/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FUuEl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Satirical portrayal of Santa Monica bike lane design; it illustrates the &quot;door zone&quot; concept well.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling in the Door Zone reduces your ability to react to hazards emerging from the space between parked vehicles. These may include unobservant pedestrians, inadequately restrained dogs (whose leads can reduce your options), sports equipment and children chasing sports equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drivers entering the road from a driveway, forecourt or junction are less likely to observe a cyclist who is not occupying the space where oncoming motor vehicles are expected to be observed. This contributes to the SMIDSY(&lt;em&gt;Sorry mate, I didn't see you&lt;/em&gt;) phenomenon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="7984" LastEditDate="2013-08-30T10:19:43.607" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T10:19:43.607" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-14T21:27:05.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1601" CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:32:14.957" Score="33" Body="&lt;h2&gt;My opinion:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe you can effectively draft &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; have enough time to stop.  I don't know the exact aerodynamics (and I suspect it's affected by speed and wind), but if you watch any paceline or peleton, they're never more than a couple feet (about half a meter) behind the rider in front, often only a few inches (centimeters) behind. With a crosswind or larger groupings, they're even likely to have wheel overlap (where the front part of the front wheel of the following cyclist is next to the rear part of the rear wheel of the lead cyclist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can really only draft safely with the cooperation of the lead cyclist, who needs to signal back to you before starting to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Do the math:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's put it another way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're going 15 miles/hour (25 km/hour)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That's also 22 feet/second (6.9 m/second)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And if you're following 3 feet behind (1 meter) (a bit far for drafting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have 0.136 seconds (0.145 if you take the metric rounding version) to react to something that causes the lead bike to need to brake suddenly to avoid colliding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're 2 feet (2/3rds of a meter), you have less than a tenth of a second.  If you're 2 feet and 20mph (32 km/hour) you have about 1/14th of a second to react.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less than a sixth of a second to figure out that the lead bike is braking and to start braking, and that's assuming your brakes are as good or better than the lead bike's brakes.  If the lead bike has slightly better brakes (or wider tires, or grippier tires, or even just pulls the brake levers a bit harder than you do), you may simply have no reaction time available and a collision will be unavoidable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: you &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; can only safely draft with the full cooperation of an experienced lead cyclist who won't brake unless they've warned you or being rear-ended by you is better than whatever they're about to run into.  If you were going to go by hazards, they'd need to warn you about upcoming hazards and you'd need to pull back to 10 feet (3 meters) or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Avoid the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1602#1602&quot;&gt;door zone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you should simply stay entirely out of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1602#1602&quot;&gt;door zone&lt;/a&gt; so that opening car doors aren't much of an issue.  It's not unheard of for car doors to open very fast with no warning, so that nobody has enough time to avoid hitting the suddenly opened car door. I haven't checked the laws of every single state in the US (and definitely not outside the US), but in general the area that parked car doors can open into (the door zone) constitutes a hazard that you're not required to ride through.  When a bike lane is in the door zone I'll either ride the line on the left of the lane (if that's outside the door zone), or simply ride in the right wheel track of the car lane next to the bike lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T17:03:50.713" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1601" CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:56:03.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, at around 10-12 MPH and below you are fighting rolling/frictional resistance enough that the drafting benefit is negligible in still air.  If the you have a headwind of 10+ MPH or are traveling at 15+ MPH then there is some benefit to be had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that there is no wind or a direct on head wind, the extension of the 'drafting bubble' is about 5 - 6 feet beyond the front rider.  Any further back than that and neither rider experiences any benefit.  Obviously the closer you get the better, but that requires the lead riders cooperation and that the two of you communicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since wind is rarely straight on, many times you will be drafting slightly to one side or the other.  The impact again is a little less, but you may be safer, as long as you are careful not to overlap wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T21:56:03.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:57:06.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rear wheel is a good start for a fixie: the front is the same as any other bike, but the rear needs to be built especially for fixed-gear riding. It will have space for only one cog on each side, typically one for a freewheel cog and one for a fixed-gear cog. The free side will only have one set of threads, while the fixed side will have two sets of threads. One of those is for the cog itself, and one is for the lockring used to secure the cog. The cog needs to be secured because when you pedal backward you loosen the cog, but the lockring is threaded in reverse and will tighten, keeping the cog on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of fixie riders consider the building of the rear wheel to be part of the process of building a fixed gear. It's the easiest wheel to build, but they are available for purchase, and usually for less money than buying the components to build your own wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="603" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T21:57:06.897" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-14T21:57:06.897" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1601" CreationDate="2010-10-14T23:23:41.660" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the size of the thing you are trying to draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distances listed below are distance between objects at normal road biking speeds. Bigger distance for higher speeds I may (or may not have) drafted a lot of things this is what I've found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Bike: 1-2 Feet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small Car: 2-4 Feet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SUV: 3-5 Feet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Truck: 3-5 Feet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;18 Wheeler: 4-8 Feet &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bus (my favorite): 8-12 Feet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be very careful when drafting anything, watch brake lights and cars up a head. If you are not paying attention you will run into the object in front of you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: I am in no way condoning or suggesting you draft any of these moving objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2010-10-15T21:56:05.650" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T21:56:05.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-10-14T23:53:53.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a generator front hub and front and rear lights. This setup is very expensive: the wheel itself can run almost 500 dollars. The very best of these generators and lights are imported from Germany by only a few importers, and are not widely available here in the US. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of reasons I like generator lights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No need to charge them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No chance for them to fail in adverse weather conditions: rechargeable batteries can fail suddenly in extreme cold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always available. Once they are installed, there isn't any reason to remove them. Because...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less likely to be stolen. The lights are mounted and wired to the bike, requiring tools to remove. The light itself is not very expensive and is not usable without the generator, so less of a target for thieves. Also, there's probably not much of a stolen goods market on high-end bike components. What makes them rare and expensive makes them hard to fence.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="603" LastActivityDate="2010-10-14T23:53:53.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1618" CreationDate="2010-10-15T01:57:59.280" Score="4" ViewCount="5027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hybrid, which for better or worse, I am going to use as my commuting and conditioning bike for the foreseeable future.  I am interested in changing the largest chain ring for an even larger one.  Will my current front derailleur still work? Are there other drive train issues I should be warned about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current setup: Gary Fisher Kaitai,  Shimano C102 front derailleur, 48/38/28 crank.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I would also like some advice on how large to go on this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="555" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T11:24:07.330" Title="Changing sprocket sizes: will front derailleur still work?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18" CreationDate="2010-10-15T03:09:33.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After my last rear wheel bent under my weight, my LBS hooked me up with a 36-hole rhynolite (rinolyte?)-based wheel. It has done pretty well so far. I am 260-270lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your riding style matters.&lt;/strong&gt; If you slam in to curbs it's a lot harder on the wheel than if you pop over them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build quality matters.&lt;/strong&gt; Machine-built wheels strain the components while building, and that means they're weaker. They may also not be evenly tensioned. But they are &lt;em&gt;so&lt;/em&gt; much cheaper than custom-built wheels that the shorter lifespan may be acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires matter.&lt;/strong&gt; I use big, fat tires with relatively low pressure. I don't believe they slow be down substantially, but I rarely get flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 36-hole wheels fail on you, you can get 40-hole wheels for tandems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T03:09:33.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2010-10-15T03:19:57.413" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have &lt;strong&gt;street tires&lt;/strong&gt;. Knobbies will slow you down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your &lt;strong&gt;wheels spin freely&lt;/strong&gt;. If the hubs are jammed, or the brakes drag, that will slow you down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, changes you make to the bike won't affect your speed very much, perhaps only enough to matter in racing. &lt;strong&gt;Changes to your fitness will matter more&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can reduce rolling resistance (change tires, pump them up). You can reduce windage (mostly in your posture). You can reduce weight (in the wheels first). Where you ride will affect where the biggest wins are.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would focus on &lt;strong&gt;reliability and fun over speed&lt;/strong&gt;, but you gotta find what's right for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to your local bike shop and ask to test ride different bikes, and see what you think. It's hard to get objective comparisons of the speed of different bikes, but you may learn about what you like more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T03:19:57.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1608" CreationDate="2010-10-15T05:06:13.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CCEQFjAA&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Ftechdocs.shimano.com%2Fmedia%2Ftechdocs%2Fcontent%2Fcycle%2FSI%2FAlivio-Acera%2FFrontDriveSystem%2FSI-F520B-En_v1_m56577569830612826.pdf&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=shimano%20c102%20front%20derailleur%20spec&amp;amp;ei=bt23TMDgDYKBlAfQldyVDQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHb6ej34bZ_mjozDTR_GotVcFRHEw&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Tech Doc&lt;/a&gt; it looks like 48 teeth is the maximum recommended size and 48/38/28 is the recommended chain ring combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spec sheet also indicates that the maximum jump between rings is 10 teeth, so even if you could fit a bigger ring, you would have to replace the other two as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the Kaitai normally comes with a standard 11-32 rear cassette.  Normally 11 is the smallest number of teeth that you will find, but Shimano makes a cassette model called Capreo that you may be able to find and use that goes as small as 9 teeth if you are trying to get a &quot;bigger&quot; gear.  The nine speed cassette ranges from 9-26T, so you trade the bigger gear on the low end for a gear that will be much harder to pedal up hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T05:06:13.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-10-15T08:22:35.850" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take Karl Lagerfeld's advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It’s yellow; it’s ugly, it doesn’t go&#xA;  with anything; but it could save your&#xA;  life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LKxaI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2013-07-14T18:58:09.767" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T18:58:09.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1620" CreationDate="2010-10-15T09:07:26.383" Score="5" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the rules for the DLR are not the same as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1551/what-are-the-rules-about-take-a-bike-on-the-london-tube&quot;&gt;Tube&lt;/a&gt;, but what are the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T14:58:52.133" Title="What are the rules about take a bike on London Dockland Light Railway (DLR)?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;public-transportation&gt;&lt;london&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-15T09:16:57.043" Score="10" ViewCount="7474" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK I have &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; seen a public bus system that allows you to take a (non-folding) bike on the bus. (There are long distance coaches that do allow bikes, however I am asking about local busses.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that some other places have buses with bike racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where are the buses that have bike racks?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How common is it for buses to have bike racks?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In summary:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some UK buses you may be able to put a single bike in the wheelchair space, ask the driver nicely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US there seems to be lots of buses with bike racks on the front or back.  Mostly these racks can take no more than two bikes.  I was not expecting the land of the car too have better provision then the UK! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No where can you depend on being able to put your bike on a bus (due to lack of space).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T01:31:30.443" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T15:14:45.310" Title="Community Wiki: Which public transport networks allow you to transport a bike?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;reference&gt;&lt;public-transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="45" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T19:00:40.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T10:00:49.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;UK&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some local services that carry bikes - but in the case local to me the utility of the implementation is questionable for regular use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some UK trains are bike-friendly, e.g.  East Coast trains let you take a bike for free with any standard ticket.  But its vital to check beforehand. Some (eg virgin trains) require you to book a place a day before (and there are only 4 places per train), others (eg Stansted Express, or Cross Country trains) won't take bikes at all, unless its a folder.  Others, will allow bikes on for free without booking, so long as its not at peak times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;North East England&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go North East (part of the Go Ahead Group) has a service that will carry one bicycle inside the bus - this is the service between Consett and Sunderland details &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.simplygo.com/our-services/lime/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of &amp;quot;how common&amp;quot; - in theory all the buses on that service should be able to carry a bike however only the buses dedicated to that route have the bike specific kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Scotland&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No bikes allowed on the stage coach buses. At times when I've had to transfer my bike for repair, I've taken off the wheels. In my experience most bus drivers will let you take the frame, albeit grumpily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wales&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &amp;quot;Brecon Bus&amp;quot; service that runs from Cardiff &amp;lt;&amp;gt; Brecon every Sunday &amp;amp; Bank Holiday Monday. Details can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardiffbus.com/english/bikebus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T20:58:51.343" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T19:00:40.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T10:26:57.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general though, for local services, wouldn't it be more efficient to, erm, cycle yourself? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;London, UK&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said most buses in London have space to carry prams, wheelchairs and so on. In theory they can carry bikes too, although it's rarely seen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite often this carry space is at the discretion of the driver - many times the mother of the second or third pushchair to arrive is refused entry because they've already got the limit. Some drivers are more flexible than others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did once see it though, it was a rainy day and someone had punctured and the driver took pity on him. I presume that if a wheelchair wanted to then get on, though, that the cyclist might have been unlucky ...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T21:57:20.620" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T21:57:20.620" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T19:00:40.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1625" CreationDate="2010-10-15T10:42:15.197" Score="16" ViewCount="4844" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my commute in this morning I found myself in &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; situation where I was in conflict with another road user. (Briefly, a truck and I arrived at a roundabout at a roughly similar time, but I was into the junction marginally sooner and, crucially, had priority. He didn't/couldn't stop in time and only my emergency stop prevented a collision.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, naturally, I shouted at him, pointing out his faults. I know this won't help the situation but adrenaline and the rush of almost being knocked off aren't great ways to start a productive discussion. We had, as they say, a full and frank exchange of views which ended with my whipping out my phone and taking a couple of quick photos of his number plate and the company name from his door. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically the police have better things to do with their time for this likely non-offence, but I did find the company's website and have filled in a 'contact us' form. I fully expect to not hear another word about it, I presume my complaint will be filed in the lunatic/whinging file and nothing will come of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question here is what should we do in these situations? We could just put up with it, going gently into that good night, putting up with a genuine belief in some other road users that cyclists are not equal peers (cf. discussions about ignoring red lights and cherry picking rules). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if it's not serious enough to report to the police, am I just being too thin-skinned? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T01:14:50.823" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T01:14:50.823" Title="Does it make sense to complain to companies about bad driving?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1608" CreationDate="2010-10-15T11:24:07.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would have to change to a new crankset*, I would recommend a road triple for this (52/42/30), and acquire a road triple front derailleur that was suitable for a flat bar shifter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano makes the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/2200/product.-code-FC-2203.-type-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2200 crankset&lt;/a&gt; which is quite affordable and will (I believe ... chainline might come into effect here) not necessitate a new bottom bracket. In my experience the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/FD/EV-FD-R440A_R443A-2031B_v1_m56577569830608848.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FD-R443 derailleur (a road triple, for flat bar)&lt;/a&gt; works very well with this set up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I now ask, why do you want a bigger chainring? My experience is people jump the gun on needing larger gears (unless your rides are almost entirely all downhill) and tend to push a much larger gear than necessary. I have found that alot of commuters and casual cyclists ride with a cadence of ~70 rpm. By making the assumption you are doing such, 15-25 rpm would show vast improvements in bike speed and would garner you greater cardio benefits. As well I would then assume, unless you are a highly trained athlete, that you will not spend a huge amount of time riding 48/11 @90 rpm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a good set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_pedal#Clipless_pedals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;clip in style pedals&lt;/a&gt; and shoes? This will help you work, in my experience, on your pedal stroke. By working first and foremost on your pedal stroke you will improve your muscle recruitment, improve your climbing (able to push the pedal over the top and scrape it across the bottom) and in general increase your average speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, my two cents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*When I say 'have to' I am referring to maintaining a semblance of smooth shifting. The reality is you can typically jury rig whatever you want and it often works. But it won't be smooth and it can be more of a pain in the arse than it is worth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T11:24:07.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-10-15T11:43:46.057" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know someone who's on the receiving end of those bad-driving complaints for a company that has a &quot;Tell us about how I drive &lt;em&gt;phone number here&lt;/em&gt;&quot; sticker on their trucks. I know that I have a small sample, but it's probably representative of how it works in most companies. Here's how it goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You call&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The person understands your troubles and will make sure the message is delivered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The person who received the call says to the driver &quot;Hey, someone complained about your bad driving!&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Oh really? &lt;em&gt;random comment&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone laughs it off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't be much better with the police. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the short term I'd say they're is nothing to do. In the long term it's all about sensibilization and working on developping mutual respect between drivers are cyclists.* They're is a lot of work to do, but really it's the only way to reduce the number of incidents like the one you're telling us about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The mutual part is important here. If there weren't so many cyclists doing not-so-smart (I'm staying polite) moves all the time, drivers would probably be more tolerant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T11:43:46.057" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1613" CreationDate="2010-10-15T11:53:08.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only folding bikes are carried on the DLR, and they must be 'totally enclosed in a cover'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atob.org.uk/Bike_Rail.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This website&lt;/a&gt; has all rules for bikes on public transit for what seems to be most companies in the UK. Check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T11:53:08.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T12:00:49.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Australia&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brisbane&lt;/strong&gt; used to allow bikes to be carried on special racks at the back, though I believe that this is no longer available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Canberra&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Similarly there are some routes that let you put a bike on a special rack on the rear of the bus.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclinginfo.org/transit/solutions-buses.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; to an interesting site that covers some other cities in the world, as well as this one that covers &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingresourcecentre.org.au/14/Bicycles_Public_Transport&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikes and public transport interactions&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T22:54:21.413" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T22:54:21.413" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T19:00:40.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-10-15T12:01:07.093" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's easy to become angry and militant when you're cycling.  It feels like cars don't respect you, and everybody's out to kill you.  Nonetheless, yelling and giving the finger ultimately makes &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; look like the jerk, even if you are in the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be courteous, forgiving, and smile.  Drivers probably won't hear you from their cars anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T12:01:07.093" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-15T12:05:39.937" Score="20" ViewCount="3715" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winter is soon upon us here, and I'm gearing up for the season.  I currently have a pair of rain over-pants which I use during the other 3 seasons, but honestly I really dislike them.  They're baggy, requiring the use of an ankle band, and not entirely warm.  They do a decent job of keeping out water, but I don't know how they will perform with snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone recommend a type of pants which are more form-fitting and will do well in both rain and snow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T21:42:57.207" Title="Finding good pants for winter biking" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ClosedDate="2021-04-18T04:31:14.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T12:07:54.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chicago&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CTA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CTA allows bikes on a rack at the front of its buses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are permitted on the 'L' (CTA trains) every weekday except from 7 am to 9 am and 4 pm to 6 pm (with certain exceptions where crowding is anticipated). On Saturdays, Sundays and holidays (except when prohibited), bicycles are allowed on trains all day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metra:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes are permitted on weekday trains arriving in Chicago before 6:31 a.m. and after 9:30 a.m., departing Chicago before 3 p.m. and after 7 p.m., and on all weekend trains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes are accommodated on a first-come, first-served basis, and those with mobility devices always receive priority. There is no guarantee that bikes can be accommodated on an initial or return trip (including late night trains), and crews have the right to refuse bikes in the event of overcrowding or depending on the needs of customers with disabilities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During special events, there is an increased likelihood that bikes cannot be accommodated. Bike warnings are in place for these annual events:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;St. Patrick's Day Parade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blues Festival&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taste of Chicago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lollapalooza&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air and Water Show&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastEditorUserId="19106" LastEditDate="2019-02-20T20:40:13.320" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T20:40:13.320" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T19:00:40.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-10-15T12:14:39.360" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anecdotal evidence I have heard is that in a lot of cases complaints actually do have an effect, particularly if the company is a large one.  All complaints have to be followed up and while you may not hear back from the company, management does speak to the drivers involved.  Whether this has a positive effect or just creates resentment with the driver, I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T12:14:39.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1623" CreationDate="2010-10-15T12:18:15.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on your budget, but you should check this out (or anything similar), from Gore bike wear :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOkyD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gore Bike Wear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;179.99 USD MSRP &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/Satellite/PROD_TULTRO?landingid=1208436873480O&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/Satellite/PROD_TULTRO?landingid=1208436873480O&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They aren't the tightest pants out there, but &quot;real&quot; tight pants are very rarely (trying not to say never) waterproof because of the type of fabric used to make them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative idea would be a nylon pant (waterproof, windproof, but absulutely not warm) that's relatively tight with a warm baselayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T12:18:15.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T12:56:58.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stockholm, Sweden&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are allowed in commuter trains except during peak hours (6-9 and 15-18). Getting in and out trains with a bike is not allowed at Stockholm C and Arlanda C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are not allowed in busses and in the underground network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastEditorUserId="13499" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T12:16:52.897" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T12:16:52.897" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T19:00:40.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-15T13:30:28.247" Score="15" ViewCount="19580" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than not having to buy special biking shoes, is there any clear advantage to using pedal straps over clipless (aka clip-in or step-in) pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T21:26:58.233" Title="Is there any advantage to using pedal straps over clipless pedals?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T13:31:00.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Columbus, OH&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bike mounts on the front of the bus and runs specials like 'Bring a Bike ride for Free' and the buses do an almost protective job with the bikers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2013-09-26T08:11:46.070" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T08:11:46.070" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T19:00:40.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1628" CreationDate="2010-10-15T13:33:20.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the straps are done up properly, you are less likely to pull your foot out accidentally.  This is why clips &amp;amp; straps are recommended for track racing .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T13:33:20.037" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T14:35:37.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;New England&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Massachusetts&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbta.com/riding_the_t/bikes/#section3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The MBTA in the Boston area&lt;/a&gt; has bike racks on a fairly substantial number of the busses (70%, according to the web page). The Red, Blue, and Orange line subways, and Commuter Rail allow bikes outside of peak hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pvta.com/bikes.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pioneer Valley Transit Authority&lt;/a&gt; in Western Massachusetts (Amherst/Northampton area, with several colleges) has bike racks on their busses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;New Hampshire&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtabus.org/about-mta/faqs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manchester Transit&lt;/a&gt; has bike racks on most busses. Some busses have bike racks which accommodate three bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.concordareatransit.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Concord Area Transit&lt;/a&gt; has bike racks on most busses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashuanh.gov/NashuaTransitSystem/tabid/60/Default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nashua Transit&lt;/a&gt; has bike racks on all busses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.advancetransit.com/bikes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Advance Transit&lt;/a&gt; in the Upper Valley region of Vermont and New Hampshire (Hanover, NH, White River Junction, VT, the Dartmouth College area) has bike racks on many of their busses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Vermont&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cctaride.org/how-to-ride/bike-information/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CCTA (Burlington area)&lt;/a&gt; has bike racks on all busses, as well as bike lockers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gmtaride.org/how-to-ride/bike-information/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GMTA (serves rural Vermont, and recently merged with CCTA)&lt;/a&gt; also has bike racks on all buses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.amtrak.com/2016/04/amtrak-now-offers-bike-service-on-the-vermonter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amtrak Vermonter rail line&lt;/a&gt; (connecting St. Albans, Essex Jct. (Burlington), Springfield Mass., New York City, and Washington DC) now offers carry-on bike service as of May 2016. (There is a limit of 3 bicycles per train, a $10-$30 fee depending on destination, and bicyclists are asked to arrive early at the station)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Maine&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gpmetrobus.net/index.php/inside-metro/bike-racks-on-buses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;METRO Bus (Portland)&lt;/a&gt; has bike racks on all busses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even busses with bike racks can only carry two bikes at once, which means that if many people use them, you may need to wait a while before finding a bus with space, and some of them have restrictions (such as not on express busses, or not when the busses are replacing a train). In general, I find it's best not to rely on being able to take bikes on public transit, but use it as a backup option for when the weather turns bad, you have an injury, or something of the sort, and you still want to take your bike home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="25915" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T11:38:25.997" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T11:38:25.997" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T19:00:40.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1579" CreationDate="2010-10-15T14:45:05.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't pay attention to walk signals, but if I know the way a particular light's cycle works, I will indeed go through when it's red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In California we have a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of protected left turns, where the folks turning left get a green arrow and the opposing straight-through traffic still has a red light.  Protected lefts generally happen with two opposing left turn lanes simultaneously getting the arrow.  Often, the turn lanes will empty before the green arrow goes away.  If the turn lane across the intersection from you still has an arrow, but the lane itself is devoid of cars, then you can safely cross the intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to reduce the ire from automobile drivers, I refrain from blatantly crossing red intersections, but instead use the above knowledge to get a head start on cars before the light changes so that I can be through the intersection before they start moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T14:45:05.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T15:02:25.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Toledo, OH, USA&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;TARTA has bike mounts on the front of their buses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2013-09-26T08:34:14.610" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T08:34:14.610" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T19:00:40.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T16:12:49.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TriMet (Portland metro area, Oregon)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Busses have bike racks mounted on the front of the bus. A rider just needs to let the bus driver know at the stop that they wish to load/unload the bike. All busses have racks. Bikes do not go inside the bus. The racks hold 2 bikes. No bikes are allowed inside the bus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T13vG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Loading a bike on a TriMet bus&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The light rail cars have a section with hooks to hang bikes + an open area that allows for a few bikes. On &lt;a href=&quot;http://maxfaqs.wordpress.com/2010/03/14/train-cars-type-2-and-type-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;type 2&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://maxfaqs.wordpress.com/2010/03/15/train-cars-type-4/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;newer&lt;/a&gt; trains, 4 bikes can be hung in each car, and there are typically 2 cars per trainset. It is sometimes possible to fit more bikes in the that area &amp;ndash; some people will create a second hanger using a U-lock between the bike wheel and the railing, but this is discouraged by TriMet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On older &lt;a href=&quot;http://maxfaqs.wordpress.com/2010/03/14/train-cars-type-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;type 1 (high floor) cars&lt;/a&gt;, one bike can be leaned against the operator cabin on each end of the car (if the cabin is unoccupied), and there are 4 additional spots where a bike can be leaned against the wall, for a total of 5-6 bikes per car. There is a restriction on all trains that bikes are only allowed if room is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VEUuz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TriMet MAX bike hook&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtEYn.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtEYn.gif&quot; alt=&quot;MAX bike placement diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.trimet.org/v3/images/bikes/max-bike-diagrams.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trimet.org&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Streetcars also have a designated bike area limited by room available.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://trimet.org/howtoride/bikes/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://trimet.org/howtoride/bikes/index.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;i&gt;All images from TriMet's website&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2019-02-16T12:51:34.960" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T12:51:34.960" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T19:00:40.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1623" CreationDate="2010-10-15T16:39:42.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sugoi.com/usa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a pair of Sugoi long tights&lt;/a&gt; for commuting in the winter. I add or subtract a base layer depending on conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really care if it's Sugoi or not; other companies make bike-tights compatible with base layers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I choose a different brand next year? Depends on what's on sale...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T06:40:56.827" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T06:40:56.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1641" CreationDate="2010-10-15T16:45:21.627" Score="14" ViewCount="2519" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you determine which roads are safe to ride on and which should be avoided? What traffic patterns do you feel comfortable riding in, and which ones set off alarms? What sorts of intersections do you avoid? How about for nighttime riding; are the same roads safe at night, or do you take a different route at night than you would during the day? Are there any statistics on ratio of accidents to total bicycle usage on certain roads to help inform this decision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several streets in my area that I will always avoid. There are a few parkways with no shoulders whatsoever, narrow lanes, winding roads, fast moving traffic, and very few stop lights and side streets to calm traffic. There are several that I feel pretty confident on, with reasonably wide bike lanes, low traffic, and frequent intersections that mean that traffic doesn't usually get too fast and drivers are on the lookout for people turning in. I'm just wondering if there are any more objective criteria I can use, or good rules of thumb, for where it's safe to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T23:43:34.903" Title="Determining if a road is safe to bike on" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T17:18:06.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Delaware&lt;/strong&gt; -- DART claims that &lt;a href=&quot;http://dartfirststate.com/information/getting_there/bike/index.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;all its buses have bike racks&lt;/a&gt; (they confirmed this when I called them). I recently rode one of their buses with a bike, and this particular bus didn't have a rack. I had to put my bike in the luggage compartment under the bus; this is apparently standard procedure. The bike rattles around in there as the bus moves, and there's other luggage loose in the same compartment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-13T20:01:45.490" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T20:01:45.490" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T19:00:40.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1623" CreationDate="2010-10-15T17:25:12.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://foxwear.net/products_pants.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Foxwear&lt;/a&gt; makes great rain pants and jackets. They're a little baggy, but they close at the ankle -- no ankle clip required. They're also good layered over tights for winter riding. I have two pair, and will use them until they fall apart (which may take some time).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T17:25:12.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T17:33:34.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;San Francisco Bay Area&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything in the 9 counties, including the cities of San Francisco, Alameda, Oakland, Berkeley, and Richmond. Making this community wiki, so please add the ones you know.  For those of you outside the bay area, it's 9 counties and about 40 different public transit agencies and there's all kinds of interlinks/transfer opportunities between them, so I think one big answer for all of the SF bay area might be the best way to present the information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bart.gov/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BART&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (Bay Area Rapid Transit; light rail / subway connecting most, but not all of the bay area counties) &amp;mdash; bikes are allowed on all trains, (during commute hours, not allowed in first 3 cars, or if the train is full).  Folding cycles are always allowed. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bart.gov/guide/bikes/bikeRules.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bart.gov/guide/bikes/bikeRules.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sfmta.com/cms/bcomm/BikesonMuni.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SF Muni&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (light rail, buses, cable cars, etc within the city of San Francisco) &amp;mdash; Racks on the front of most buses, but not any of the other vehicle types. Folding bicycles are allowed inside all Muni vehicles (with the exception of cable cars) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sfmta.com/cms/bcomm/BikesonMuni.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sfmta.com/cms/bcomm/BikesonMuni.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Golden Gate Transit&lt;/strong&gt; (GGT, crosses the Golden Gate bridge to connect San Francisco to the two counties north and also ferry service between Larkspur and SF) &amp;mdash; racks on the front of some buses and racks underneath on others.  Ferries allow a limited number of bikes. &lt;a href=&quot;http://goldengatetransit.org/services/bikes.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://goldengatetransit.org/services/bikes.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AC Transit&lt;/strong&gt; (Alameda country, with transbay buses to SF) &amp;mdash; All busses have bike racks that hold two (or three on newer buses!) bikes on the front.  Some also have storage space below that can hold (officially) 2 more bikes. Folded or collapsed bicycles may be carried on board anytime as long as they do not block seats or aisles. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.actransit.org/rider-info/rider-guides/bikes-on-buses/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.actransit.org/rider-info/rider-guides/bikes-on-buses/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caltrain&lt;/strong&gt; (rail between SF and Santa Clara) &amp;mdash; special cars for the bikes. Folding cycles allowed. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caltrain.com/riderinfo/Bicycles/Bicycle_General_Info.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.caltrain.com/riderinfo/Bicycles/Bicycle_General_Info.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Samtrans&lt;/strong&gt; (SF connection down peninsula to Palo Alto) &amp;mdash; Buses are equipped with bike racks which hold two bikes. Two additional bikes are allowed inside the bus depending on passenger loads. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.samtrans.org/bikes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.samtrans.org/bikes.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sonoma County Transit&lt;/strong&gt; (primarily connects cities within Sonoma County and also provides local transit for some cities in the county) &amp;mdash; racks on the front of every bus. Most racks accomodate 3 bikes, some only 2. If the rack is full and there's room on board, a couple bikes can go on board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Santa Rosa CityBus&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; Bike racks with 2 spots on the front.  Can put bike in the wheelchair area if rack is full but bus isn't full.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vta.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VTA Bus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (Santa Clara Valley Transportation Authority Busses; Covers the South Bay Area) &amp;mdash; racks on the front of every bus. Racks accomodates 2 bikes. If the rack is full 2 bikes are allowed inside, at the driver's discretion. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vta.org/bike_information/bikes_on_transit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vta.org/bike_information/bikes_on_transit.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T09:00:04.923" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T09:00:04.923" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T17:33:34.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1623" CreationDate="2010-10-15T18:20:36.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trick to staying warm for your winter rides is layers. Keep in mind your overpants aren't there to keep you warn, per se, just to keep you dry.  You can wear under them pants, long johns, long warm spandex, whatever floats your boat.  That's part of why they would be baggy too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I used to commute in Boston through the winter, I wore thick long spandex pants under my snow pants, and that, combined with the heat generated by riding, was enough to keep me warm through -5F blizzards :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-15T18:20:36.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1636" CreationDate="2010-10-15T19:54:35.527" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I consider several factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traffic density&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traffic speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road shoulder or not&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike lane or not&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Route efficiency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road condition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bus and truck traffic density&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Streetcar routes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main combination that I really work hard to avoid is high density, high speed, and no shoulder or bike lane, with poor road condition thrown in as a bonus. I will ride on high density, low speed roads without a lane/shoulder most any time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For intersections, if possible, I tend to avoid ones that are poorly signaled; but on some routes I just have to be extra careful on those. At night, high speeds and poor road conditions gets extra weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T00:24:03.053" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T00:24:03.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T20:16:24.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vancouver (BC)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.translink.ca&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Translink&lt;/a&gt; has roughly the following rules for bikes on transit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All buses have a bike rack on the front for 2 bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bikes are allowed on the Canada Line skytrain at any time. (There is a bike specific area in each car&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The seabus allows bikes at any time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expo and Millenium line skytrains allow one bike per car during 'off' hours. In other words, you are allowed a bike heading downtown at any time other than 7-9AM weekdays. You are allowed to take a bike heading away from downtown at any time other than 4-6PM weekdays&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T16:28:51.820" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T16:28:51.820" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T20:16:24.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-15T22:43:45.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dallas Area&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the Buses in the Rapid Transit system have bike racks on the buses and you can take your bicycle into the cars on the Light Rail System.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dart.org/riding/bike.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here at the Dart Website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="77" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2013-09-26T08:13:20.267" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T08:13:20.267" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-15T22:43:45.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1646" CreationDate="2010-10-16T02:03:10.803" Score="19" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have really enjoyed Google Maps cycling directions but find it lacking a lot where I live. I really want to update the maps with new/better information but I don't know the what, how, or where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What data can I submit to update Google Maps cycling data?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What format does the data need to be in to submit it to Google Maps?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where do I submit this data? (i.e. url)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is the data submitted?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="615" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T20:25:35.980" Title="Submitting road data to Google" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;resource&gt;&lt;maps&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1644" CreationDate="2010-10-16T03:04:35.900" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to submit data is to &lt;strong&gt;right-click on the map and choose &quot;Report a problem&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;.  This pops up a small form with a marker.  You drag the marker where the problem is, and you pick a category and type something to explain the problem.  In a few days, a human being reads it and (assuming he/she agrees) fixes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, Google Maps would send bicycle routes near my house to a road with a killer hill.  There's a reasonable alternate route that adds only about a quarter of a mile, but avoids the killer hill for a much more gentle hill.  So I reported it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a few days I got an e-mail that said &quot;Your Google Maps problem report has been reviewed, and you were right! We'll update the map soon and email you when you can see the change.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you'll also get an e-mail afterwards that says &quot;Google Maps has been updated to correct the problem you reported. You can see the update here, and if you still see a problem, please tell us more about the issue:  (link)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now those same bicycle routes, by default, route along the gentle hill instead of the killer hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="577" LastActivityDate="2010-10-16T03:04:35.900" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="938" CreationDate="2010-10-16T03:48:19.753" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;what are the drawbacks of using an&#xA;  exercise bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noise (you mentioned this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many quickly get bored riding on an exercise bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Promotes bad cycling form&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be large, heavy, expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite alternative to riding in the snow in the winter is to ride on rollers. The rollers I have used have several advantages&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not as boring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amazing for form&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foldable space saving models exist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More like actually riding on the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No switching out tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride on bicycle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting comfortable with riding on the rollers took me about 2 hours and I feel that it has been a great way to stay in shape and in good form while I'm not able or willing to ride out in the weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos of my rollers:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHFrD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gTWW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is an exercise bike good enough for&#xA;  keeping fit in the winter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes... and no. Completely depends on what level of 'fit' you are trying to attain and how consistent and hard you work on the exercise bike. If you are just trying to keep your blood moving and stay generally fit, then an exercise bike is a great winter workout tool. If you are working towards a 206 mile - 1 day race in the summer then you will probably want to mix your exercise bike workouts with other exercises like weight lifting and yoga.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is an exercise bike going to be better than a turbo trainer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends. Exercise bikes tend to be more upright in their posture which may make the exercising more comfortable. Pricing and space will also be something to take into consideration when looking at exercise bikes vs. trainers. If you are wanting to be better trained and acclimated to riding your bike for races or rides, then a turbo trainer will probably better suit your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another bicycle stackexchange question and answer similar to what I have said.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1549/i-wish-to-get-fit-therefore-should-i-have-a-heavy-bike&quot;&gt;I wish to get fit, therefore should I have a heavy bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="615" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2010-10-16T04:38:17.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1649" CreationDate="2010-10-16T13:14:48.303" Score="6" ViewCount="2055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I need to keep the disks clean on my bike, but if I've got them covered in grease, what should I clean them with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-10-16T13:22:08.600" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T09:21:07.037" Title="What do I clean disk brakes with?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1648" CreationDate="2010-10-16T17:41:23.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;the pads are likely trash, but you can use isopropyl alcohol to clean the disk rotors (say, to remove grease BEFORE it gets into the pads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-10-16T17:41:23.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1652" CreationDate="2010-10-16T20:23:02.247" Score="6" ViewCount="1351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the two main categories are the mineral oil (Shimano, Magura) and the DOT type (Avid, Hayes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what is the difference between the DOT 3, DOT4, DOT 5.1?&#xA;Which one should I choose for average mountain biking? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="606" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T01:15:29.667" Title="What is the difference between DOT brake fluids?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2010-10-16T21:09:32.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple: If you're riding in the street, you do what the cars do; but if you're riding where the pedestrians walk, you do what they do.  In the diagram above, the walk/don't walk signs line up with the bike path, so you'd follow them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="577" LastActivityDate="2010-10-16T21:09:32.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1650" CreationDate="2010-10-16T21:49:20.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the difference is boiling points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;               Dry boiling point   Wet boiling point&#xA;DOT 3       205 °C (401 °F)     140 °C (284 °F)&#xA;DOT 4       230 °C (446 °F)     155 °C (311 °F)&#xA;DOT 5       260 °C (500 °F)     180 °C (356 °F)&#xA;DOT 5.1     270 °C (518 °F)     190 °C (374 °F)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3, 4, and 5.1 are glycol-based, and must be changed periodically, as it absorbs water. 5 is silicone-based and does not need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2010-10-17T00:40:42.683" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T00:40:42.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-16T23:01:58.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New Zealand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.intercity.co.nz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Intercity&lt;/a&gt; took our bikes as long as there was some space in the cargo hold. The rule there is that the driver gets to decide whether your bike goes on (depending on available space), so it helps to remove the pedals and turn your handlebars and cover the oily bits, but this is not always necessary. Most drivers were very friendly and will make sure your bike is properly placed to avoid damage to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One time they even went so far as to exchange a small passenger van for a full-size bus for 10 people just so our bikes could get on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these are not local busses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Christchurch&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.metroinfo.co.nz/info/Pages/bikeracks.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.metroinfo.co.nz/info/Pages/bikeracks.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all (27) bus routes have a 2 place rack out the front.  No bikes inside the bus, but you might get away with a folded one.  Central Bus Exchange has special loading doors for bikes.  No cost for taking a bike.  Minimum wheel size is 16&quot;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no passenger trains&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferry - the Diamond Harbour ferry will take bikes as deck cargo, at discretion of staff.   Bikes not to go inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Auckland&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://at.govt.nz/bus-train-ferry/luggage-bikes-animals/bikes-public-transport/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://at.govt.nz/bus-train-ferry/luggage-bikes-animals/bikes-public-transport/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bus - No bikes on any bus unless its a folder.  There are bike racks on busses on Waiheke Island, but that's all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferry - free at any time.  Different vessels vary, just ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trains will take bikes for free if there's room and at discretion of staff.  Don't take a full sized bike at peak time.  Folders can go at any time and stored under a seat.  Use the middle car of every three, (second and fifth car of a six-carriage train)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dunedin&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.orc.govt.nz/Documents/Content/Information%20Services/buses/2015/Carry_on%20Guidelines_dbl%20sided%20flyer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.orc.govt.nz/Documents/Content/Information%20Services/buses/2015/Carry_on%20Guidelines_dbl%20sided%20flyer.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Busses for 10 of 29 routes are required to be fitted with bike racks.  The others probably have bike racks, but its not contractually required.  Aim is for all busses to be bike-racked by July 2016.   Minimum wheel size is 20&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No trains or ferries in Dunedin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wellington&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.metlink.org.nz/assets/Publication-PDFs/Travelling-by-bicycle-booklet-december-2015-WEB.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.metlink.org.nz/assets/Publication-PDFs/Travelling-by-bicycle-booklet-december-2015-WEB.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Busses - folded bikes only, carried by the passenger, at no additional charge.  No bike racks available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trains - Bikes travel free, but only folders are allowed at peak time.  Stations have bike parking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ferry - yes, 6-8 bikes permitted for free per crossing, on a first come first served basis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T22:36:03.530" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T22:36:03.530" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-16T23:01:58.753" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-16T23:05:56.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Netherlands&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes are allowed on all trains, except during rush hour (7-9 in the morning, 16-18 in the afternoon). But usually you can get away with it during those times anyway. You do need to buy a separate ticket for your bicycle, which costs €6 (August 2014, see this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ns.nl/en/travellers/blinded-pages/holland-by-train.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;national railways page&lt;/a&gt;) and is valid for one day, irrespective of distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High speed trains (ICE, Thalys) usually do not transport bikes (with few exceptions). Thalys will transport a bike if it is packed in a bag measuring 120 x 90 cm, or a folding bike. Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thalys.com/nl/en/services/before/preparing-your-journey#luggage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thalys - Luggage on board&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no local busses that allow or even have space for bikes, but most local distances are better done by bike anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Folding bikes are considered luggage and allowed on all public transport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes are difficult to get onto what subway systems we have, but I think no-one will stop you if you try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="1093" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T08:07:57.337" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T08:07:57.337" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-16T23:05:56.960" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1636" CreationDate="2010-10-16T23:22:06.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to avoid any road that'll have me cycling on the same lane (i.e. no bike path or shoulder) as cars &lt;strike&gt;allowed&lt;/strike&gt; likely to go more than 50 km/h (30 mph), day or night (if I have a bicycle with proper lights). However, depending on where you cycle this is not always possible. In those places I take my rear-view mirror with me on my bike and stay out of rush-hour traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per Murph's comment, winding narrow country roads are usually pretty safe to ride despite the high speed limit because the traffic density is low and all the corners keep car-speeds down. So I changed &quot;allowed&quot; to &quot;likely&quot;. This of course requires some local knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-17T19:08:50.787" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T19:08:50.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1650" CreationDate="2010-10-17T01:15:29.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the &quot;Which one should I choose for average mountain biking?&quot; part,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't really &quot;choose&quot; your brake oil, it's specified by the manufacturer. The oil is chosen depending on the heat output of the brake and the general construction of the system. A different oil than what the manufacturer recommends might affect/break the cables, seals or some other parts of the system. Check your brake's manual (most likely available online if you lost it) to know what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T01:15:29.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1658" CreationDate="2010-10-17T02:37:18.467" Score="6" ViewCount="2546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just cleaned my gears and chain with a biodegradable degreaser. I'm going to lubricate my chain. Do I also need to lubricate the gears or do I just pedal and make sure that I hit all gears? Will the lube on the chain lube the gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-10-17T02:39:08.750" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T03:50:00.820" Title="Do you need to lubricate gears after cleaning gears and chain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1657" CreationDate="2010-10-17T02:41:07.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to lubricate your gears since they don't have any moving parts or pivots (it's the hub that rotates). Cleaning them is all you needed to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T02:41:07.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1575" CreationDate="2010-10-17T03:39:11.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used one of these, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.snoozerpetproducts.com/snoozer-sporty-pet-bike-basket-p-83.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these Snoozer baskets&lt;/a&gt; look good for small dogs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://imgur.com/XqolA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;Hosted by imgur.com&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0019W2DBM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;folks on Amazon&lt;/a&gt; sure seem to like their other model, but that one doesn't specify if it includes a leash clip. Just remember: safety first. Get your best friend some &lt;a href=&quot;http://doggles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Doggles&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T03:39:11.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1657" CreationDate="2010-10-17T03:50:00.820" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always wash off the degreaser, lube the chain, and then run it through all gears to get a bit of lube worked into everything. Don't need to lube the gears specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the key is to be sure to wash off all traces of the degreaser. Last thing you need is residual cleaner gunking stuff up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T03:50:00.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="257" CreationDate="2010-10-17T06:26:26.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An approach that can give you some confidence is to measure your existing bike(s) along the critical dimensions to see how they compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my mind (and apparently also to the mind of the late, great &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html#toptube&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;) the most important dimension to consider is the top tube length. Basically, you can get a certain amount of adjustment in &quot;reach&quot;, the distance between your saddle and the handlebars by adjusting the saddle on the rails, and the stem you've got, but the range of variability is quite small. Seat posts can be extended through quite a significant range, and you can generally play around with the rise on the stem, as well as the spacers on the steerer to get a lot of vertical adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, download your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.surlybikes.com/uploads/downloads/Cross_Check2010.pdf&quot;&gt;specifications for the cross-check&lt;/a&gt; and we find that the top tube has an effective length of 570mm. Go out and measure the top tube of your current bike (or a bike you are comfortable riding) and if it is close to this, then you are good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T06:26:26.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1648" CreationDate="2010-10-17T09:21:07.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that boiling the disk brake pads in water can help remove the oil from them if they've become contaminated. It wouldn't be the first thing I'd try, but if you're trying to restore an otherwise trashed pair of pads, it might be worth a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T09:21:07.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1699" CreationDate="2010-10-17T13:03:59.283" Score="17" ViewCount="6034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently trying to choose between the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleops.com/products/rollers.html?page=shop.product_details&amp;amp;product_id=222&quot;&gt;CycleOps PVC roller&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleops.com/products/rollers.html?page=shop.product_details&amp;amp;product_id=223&quot;&gt;CycleOps Aluminum roller&lt;/a&gt;. How big of a difference is there between them? I don't really care about riding the roller outdoors, so that difference is moot for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="622" LastEditorUserId="1331" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T13:59:12.420" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T13:59:12.420" Title="Should I buy a PVC or aluminum roller?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1663" CreationDate="2010-10-17T13:58:37.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminum is more durable, but highly used PVC rollers have been seen to hit the decade mark so it's not really a big difference maker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other difference would be that PVC rollers charge up static electricity and it can be annoying to get zapped every time you ride your rollers. Now it's up to you to see if that's worth an extra 90$. It's most likely possible to ground the rollers to avoid the shocks and save some money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The main difference is that PVC rollers can't really be used outside, but it doesn't matter here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T13:58:37.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1675" CreationDate="2010-10-17T14:00:10.907" Score="17" ViewCount="1979" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm consider getting bicycle rollers for use over winter, and I expect after the initial newness has worn off it might become boring. Can I realistically watch a DVD while using rollers? Or do they take too much concentration, and I should look at getting something like a fluid trainer instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-30T00:22:00.197" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T09:34:53.020" Title="How much do you need to concentrate when using rollers?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;learning&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1672" CreationDate="2010-10-17T14:26:03.353" Score="10" ViewCount="1130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am seeking eye protection for cycling. I don't know if I should buy glasses or goggles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-26T18:11:54.703" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T18:11:54.703" Title="What are the features that I should seek in cycling glasses?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1669" CreationDate="2010-10-17T14:28:42.537" Score="25" ViewCount="1743" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I put on heavy clothes it will be very hot inside them after the warm-up. If I wear only a T-shirt I'll freeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride around 20 km in a hilly city, with temperatures between 0 and 30 celsius. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T04:38:37.210" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T06:34:07.140" Title="What to wear when it's cold?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2010-10-17T16:08:36.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The secret is layering. Read what the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onebag.com/travel-clothes.html#temperature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OneBag site&lt;/a&gt; has to say about it. This is not intended for biking, but the rules still stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T16:08:36.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2010-10-17T16:40:13.073" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a continuum of clothes that I add on as the weather gets colder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the summer, I ride like you do with shorts and a t-shirt.  As things cool of a little bit, down below 60F/15C, I'll put on a windbreaker over my t-shirt and some full-finger gloves on my hands.  The next step for me is to add an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.underarmour.com/shop/us/en/mens/gearline/coldgear/fitted/pid1215483-Men-s-UA-ColdGear-Fitted-Mock/1215483-410&quot;&gt;Under Armour Cold Gear shirt&lt;/a&gt; (many companies make equivalent tops) but to stick with naked legs, they're doing all the wok after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once temperatures get down to the 45F/7C range, I'll add som snazzy leggings in a fabric similar to the Under Armour top mentioned above.  When things start to freeze, my final move is a fleece vest over the long sleeve top, but under my windbreaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If things get even colder where you are, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org/Clothing/clothing.htm&quot;&gt;Icebike's clothing page&lt;/a&gt; is a good place to look for further advice.  Keep two things in mind: you need a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; less clothing once you're moving and generating heat than you do standing around, but you also need to be prepared for a problem that might leave you standing around for some time.  Dress light and carry extra clothes in a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T16:40:13.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2010-10-17T16:41:12.827" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most rides in the cold I start out freezing. Once my body has generated some heat I'm great. Typically my outer layer is wind blocking followed by a jersey. Depending on the temperature I'll have either a long sleeve polypro shirt or just my arm warmers under that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have both leg warmers and fleece lined tights. I wear the tights if it's colder. If it's early then I'll opt for the leg warmers since they can be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have windstopper gloves and when it's really cold I'll wear a set of Louis Garneau 2 finger (+ thumb) mitts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also important to cover your ears. I have both a thin toque and a full balaclava. Again if it's really cold I'll wear the one that covers more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated above the secret is layer. Many cycling specific jackets have zip off sleeves. They're great since you can easily remove them to cool down a bit if you dressed a bit too warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I forgot to mention is shoe covers. I have a neoprene set of shoe covers. They keep out water decently but they are warm. You can make your own toe covers for the shoes with old socks and duct tape. Cut the old socs so that they extend past your cleat. Sew on a strap that goes around your heal. Cover them in the tape for wind. I've had a pair of those that lasted 3 or 4 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-10-17T22:00:16.907" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T22:00:16.907" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1666" CreationDate="2010-10-17T16:57:43.767" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A frame that doesn't obscure your vision at all. Especially if you're cycling on the road, you want to be able to do a shoulder check without the frame blinkering you at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, glasses that fit quite close to your face are good because they reduce the chance that a bit of mud or an insect is going to get around them and into your eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T16:57:43.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1666" CreationDate="2010-10-17T17:42:07.853" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glasses are suitable for most all cycling purposes. Goggles are more specific, like for some mountain biking and perhaps in snow. Even so, I see cyclists in glasses far more often than goggles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the frames: Most manufacturers have road and mountain models at various price points. Get a frame that fits your face well. If googles, ones that fit your face and vented. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the lenses (glasses or goggles), which are key, there are a few things to look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polycarbonate lenses. Because they're impact resistant and durable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UV protection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polarized lenses for glare protection. (Non-polarized lenses suck)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interchangeable lenses. For changing lighting conditions. Clear for night, various tints for bright, cloudy, etc. There are also photochromatic lenses that change tint based on brightness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prescription lenses or prescription inserts if necessary. (And if you don't use contacts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW - Last weekend at a very muddy cyclocross race I watched, no one was in goggles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T00:34:33.910" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T00:34:33.910" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1663" CreationDate="2010-10-17T19:17:02.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what has already been said, aluminum rollers tend to be smoother, easier rolling, and quieter.  In a nutshell, they're far more pleasant to ride on.  Try both, and you'll notice the difference right away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T19:17:02.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1665" CreationDate="2010-10-17T21:22:46.677" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rollers are awesome! At least I think so. I have used both a trainer and rollers and I much prefer using the rollers. Once you are used to using the rollers you will be more than capable of doing things like watching a movie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the best things about rollers is they magnify issues with your cycling form. Once you have trained enough on the rollers your body will figure it out and it will start to be second nature. It's fairly entertaining to do a youtube search for bicycle roller tricks. I don't suggest doing any of those tricks but worth a few minutes to watch and laugh. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several different kinds of rollers, so I would suggest learning about some of the pros and cons of each discussed a bit in another question =&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1663/should-i-buy-a-pvc-or-aluminum-roller&quot;&gt;Should I buy a PVC or aluminum roller?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="615" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T05:54:31.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2010-10-17T23:47:16.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm comfortable temperature-wise when I leave the house, I will be too hot a few minutes later. I remind myself to be chilly as I leave, so that I can warm up and be comfortable on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm too cold, I find that covering exposed areas, even lightly, helps more than adding layers where I already have some. So, gloves &amp;amp; hat before a heavy jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-10-17T23:47:16.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1700" CreationDate="2010-10-17T23:48:58.243" Score="14" ViewCount="2095" Body="&lt;p&gt;After seeing a few questions about rollers pop-up, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1665/how-much-do-you-need-to-concentrate-when-using-rollers&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, it has spiked my interest in these things again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do you learn how to ride on rollers? How long does it take you to get the hang of it? Is it like learning to use clipless pedals where you are almost guaranteed to fall off a couple of times before you get it nailed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T06:58:09.437" Title="What is a good way to learn how to ride a bike on rollers?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;learning&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:08:43.937" Score="19" ViewCount="16976" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a tricky question to ask correctly. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/535/should-i-wear-a-helmet-closed&quot;&gt;One attempt&lt;/a&gt; has already been closed as subjective and argumentative. There is no one correct answer, for sure. However, there are interesting reasons that I believe are worth recording here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally include supporting documentation/research. I will vote up for quality of answer, not based on whether I agree with the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T23:41:22.253" Title="What are the reasons for and against wearing a bicycle helmet?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;subjective&gt;" AnswerCount="34" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="10" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T00:24:26.897" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:38:11.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For&lt;/strong&gt;: it might be legally required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends very heavily on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_helmet#Legislation_and_culture&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;jurisdiction&lt;/a&gt; and may depend on age as well. (in my jurisdiction it's required for minors under age 18 but not for adults)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T05:00:28.073" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T05:00:28.073" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T00:38:11.230" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:40:29.633" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against&lt;/strong&gt;: helmet hair (messes up your hair)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on hair style, what you use to style your hair, how much you sweat, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T00:40:29.633" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T00:40:29.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:41:17.940" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For:&lt;/strong&gt; If you fall on top of your head, it will protect it (also side impacts if wearing a full-face helmet while riding downhill mountain bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, this is not an overly simple reply. It's what it's designed for, it's what it does well and it's why you should wear one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to edit with documentation about head protection, but I think the number of people on here (myself first) who can say &quot;I fell and my helmet saved my head&quot; are worth any research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T00:46:30.223" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T00:46:30.223" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T00:41:17.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:42:39.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against&lt;/strong&gt;: Sunburn on your forehead in strange patterns, potentially painful if your helmet sloshes around a bit. (Sunburn on your entire head in lines if you're bald.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;For&lt;/strong&gt;: Less total sunburn on your head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T23:18:16.250" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T23:18:16.250" CommentCount="8" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T00:42:39.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:47:27.570" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For&lt;/strong&gt;: A helmet is a great place to mount lights, a mirror, or a rear blinky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T00:47:27.570" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T00:47:27.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:48:58.253" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For&lt;/strong&gt;: Visibility. A brightly-colored helmet is more visible than a cyclist's head. (Admittedly, a cycling cap can do this job just as well as a helmet.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T00:48:58.253" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T00:48:58.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-18T01:28:05.333" Score="9" ViewCount="4012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few old-but-still-working bikes collecting dust. Instead of trashing them, I'd like to give them to a charity so they can have a new life. I figured we could make a list of charities who accept bike donations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One per post, please specify location and website (if any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T03:51:10.357" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T01:00:17.433" Title="Charities that accept bike donations" Tags="&lt;reference&gt;&lt;charities&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T03:50:40.840" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1677" CreationDate="2010-10-18T01:39:38.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the easiest way was to put the rollers in a door frame. Keep looking ahead and find a cadence where you only need slight pressure on the pedals. When you start too hard/easy will probably make you fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that I got the hang of rollers pretty quickly. One or two rides and they were easy and I didn't need the door frame to get going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T01:39:38.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1686" CreationDate="2010-10-18T02:09:20.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Boulder, Colorado, &lt;a href=&quot;http://communitycycles.org/get-involved/donate.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Community Cycles&lt;/a&gt; accepts donated bicycles and puts them to good use. Their website lists &lt;a href=&quot;http://communitycycles.org/links/bike-collectives.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;other bike collectives&lt;/a&gt; across North America that may make a good starting point for finding a similar organization elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="460" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T02:09:20.180" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T03:50:40.840" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-18T02:37:32.883" Score="41" ViewCount="12947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Android smartphone, with GPS, accelerometer, 3G internet connection, and other features that seem useful for bicycling. Are there any good bicycling apps on Android?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One app per answer please; feel free to answer multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-13T00:38:34.853" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T20:39:29.907" Title="Bicycling apps for Android" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;software&gt;&lt;android&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="18" ClosedDate="2012-06-05T17:06:43.777" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T03:57:59.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T02:46:23.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased head protection in falls and collisions (like with that low hanging branch you don't see until too late.) &lt;em&gt;Having crashed in the past, this one is enough for me.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sun protection for those of us who are 'folicularly challenged'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be stylish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May be legally required as @freihiet mentioned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May increase visibility as @neilfein mentioned - I add 3M reflective tape to mine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In cold weather you can tape over the vents, and use the helmet to hold a skull-cap or balaclava on to increase warmth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even the ones with the best/most vents are hotter than no helmet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some (not necessarily scientific) studies and anecdotal evidence shows that cars pass cyclists in cycling specific attire, including helmets, at a closer distance than they pass cyclists in street clothes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some (not necessarily scientific) studies and anecdotal evidence shows that when protective gear is worn, the wearer tends to engage in riskier behavior. &lt;em&gt;I personally ride faster and corner more aggressively, and I think I am more assertive about taking the lane.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection in a collision is only marginal, especially if it is at a high speed or with an automobile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a note about that last point - I hear that one a lot, and my usual response is that by a huge margin most accidients and collisions that result in injuries sugnificant enough to require medical attention (and therfore be tracked and reported) are not collisions or accidents involving automobiles.  The most common is a 'fall' - meaning you hit something in the road or path, or otherwise lost control and fell over all on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T02:46:23.283" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T02:46:23.283" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2010-10-18T02:56:04.823" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mytracks.appspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;My Tracks&lt;/a&gt; is an app by Google that will record a path you rode with stats.  You can upload your path to Google Maps and stats to Google Docs, or create a gpx/kml file for uploading to other biking, running, or fitness / mapping apps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T17:26:29.783" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T02:56:04.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1686" CreationDate="2010-10-18T03:06:40.240" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a Wiki with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations&amp;amp;Itemid=100015&quot;&gt;International List of Bike Collectives and Community Orgainizations&lt;/a&gt; at BikeCollectives.org.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many other organizations, like the Salvation Army in the US, that take almost any item and either operate second-hand stores or sell the items to other thrift shops.  I prefer to deal with organizations like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slcbikecollective.org/&quot;&gt;Salt Lake City Bike Collective&lt;/a&gt; because I know the bike is going to checked well and repaired if needed before being returned to the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T03:23:32.377" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T03:23:32.377" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T03:06:40.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2010-10-18T03:14:21.783" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worksmartlabs.com/products.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CardioTrainer&lt;/a&gt; is an app that also works with the GPS functionality to track your workouts, and can create tracks and virtual training partners if you do the same routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T03:14:21.783" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T03:14:33.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T03:25:18.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against:&lt;/strong&gt; In a crash with a &lt;strong&gt;glancing blow&lt;/strong&gt;, a helmet increases leverage of the impact forces around your neck. A twist-around-the-neck injury is very different from a straight-on-impact injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T03:25:18.357" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T03:25:18.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2010-10-18T04:17:04.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velocomputer.com/faces/mainpage.jsp?uri=products.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VeloComputer&lt;/a&gt; appears to be an attempt at turning a phone into a complete cycling computer. Version 7, which is available for Android, uses GPS for measuring position and speed, and the accelerometer to measure cadence. They also sell Bluetooth enabled wheel and pedal sensors, for more accurate speed and cadence, though those seem to only be supported on Blackberry at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not tried this; it looks interesting, though some of the reviews indicate that it's a bit flaky. Does anyone else have experience with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T04:17:04.933" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T04:17:04.933" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1698" CreationDate="2010-10-18T04:24:16.220" Score="25" ViewCount="4602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I should lubricate my chain regularly. I got some lube at my LBS; how should I apply it? Do I just drip some on one spot, and turn the pedals around a few times to spread it out? Drip it all over the chain? Do I clean the chain first? How can I tell if it needs lube, or if I've put enough on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="454" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T04:29:40.377" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T19:17:12.890" Title="How do I lubricate my chain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1696" CreationDate="2010-10-18T04:48:43.267" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean the chain first - see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1507/213&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/692/213&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chain has a master link I like to start there just so I can keep track of which links I have lubed easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually you should shake up the lube, especially if it is a 'dry' or 'wax' formula.  Then drip 1 or 2 drops on the rollers of each link.  Lube on the outside of the chain is basically worthless unless you are applying a 'wet' lube for weather protection.  More than one or two drops on each link will be too much, and will drip a lot of lube onto the floor or ground where you are working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedal the chain backwards and get every link.  When done run the chain through all the gears. Let the chain sit for a few minutes then using a clean, dry, lint-free cloth, wipe the excess from the chain, cogs and chain rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T04:48:43.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1696" CreationDate="2010-10-18T05:12:56.983" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When should I lubricate the chain?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends a bit upon the chain lubricant that your using, how often you ride the bike, how you store the bike and what sort of weather you are riding in. As a general rule of thumb I'd think about lubricating the chain every 100km to 200km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your chain is visibly dirty, rusty or squeaking when you ride, then you &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; need to lubricate the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I need to clean the chain first?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is dirty, yes, otherwise no. If you are in the habit of regularly lubricating your chain, then you don't need to clean the chain each time you lubricate it. If you leave it a long time between lubrication, then its probably worth cleaning it every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I apply the lubricant?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much exactly as in Gary.Ray's answer. Start at a spot on the chain you can recognise (e.g. the master link), rotate the chain slowly backwards and put a drop or two on each roller until you get back to your starting link. Finally, give the chain a good few cranks around to make sure the lubricant has penetrated appropriately and wipe any excess off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are feeling lazy, and don't mind getting lubricant on the ground, then you can just direct a thin stream of the lubricant onto the chain as you pedal it backwards a bit. It's more wasteful of lubricant, but faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T05:12:56.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1663" CreationDate="2010-10-18T05:39:39.073" Score="16" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How big of a difference is there&#xA;  between them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is this big...&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U6JZa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/bobmarley753/249120602/&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/bobmarley753/249120602/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously though, after some research and asking friends, many who have aluminum rollers prefer them over PVC rollers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unasked question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which one would you buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of my friends have rollers that are cylindrical like the two you have linked to. When asked about their rollers, their biggest complaint is how often they end up riding off the side of their rollers. One even has gotten in trouble with his wife after riding off the edge of his rollers leaving burn marks on the floor. &lt;em&gt;oops!&lt;/em&gt; With cylindrical rollers, more concentration is needed to stay on, which can be a good thing if that is something you are looking to improve in your form and concentration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to buy another set of rollers, I would most definitely purchase another set of parabolic rollers.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jfnPX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love my parabolic rollers! They were really easy to learn on and I have yet to ride off the edge of them. Not having to worry as much about riding off the edge is really big for me as it allows me to ride longer, feel more comfortable shifting my hands to shift and readjust, and allows me to watch an occasional movie or two while riding. &lt;em&gt;: )&lt;/em&gt; If you are looking at getting a set of rollers, I would highly suggest adding parabolic rollers to your consideration list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?btnG=1&amp;amp;pws=0&amp;amp;q=parabolic+rollers#sclient=psy&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;source=hp&amp;amp;q=parabolic+rollers&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;aqi=&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;oq=&amp;amp;gs_rfai=&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;fp=80834014c217cffa&quot;&gt;Google search for parabolic rollers to get you rolling&lt;/a&gt; ...&lt;em&gt;chuckle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts about having ridden on plastic rollers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never had my rollers statically shock me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Haven't seen any major wear on the rollers that makes me worried that they won't last for years on end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Love how quite the rollers are especially compared to my CycleOps Fluid 2 Bike Trainer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never needed to use them outside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has been a very smooth ride for me and much smoother than my fluid trainer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resistance? I love that my rollers have a variable resistance module so I can change the resistance depending on what kind of workout I am going for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="615" LastEditorUserId="615" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T05:49:16.000" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T05:49:16.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1677" CreationDate="2010-10-18T06:10:40.643" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how do you learn how to ride on rollers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Believe you can do it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do it!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do it in a doorway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How long does it take you to get the hang of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took me about 30 min. on a set of plastic parabolic rollers before I felt comfortable enough to take the rollers out of the doorway and just be next to a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;are almost guaranteed to fall off a couple of times before you get it nailed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No... and maybe. Depends on your comfort level of being on a bicycle, hand eye coordination, and what kind of rollers you are riding on. I have yet to ride off of or fall off of my parabolic rollers. I had spent a lot of time on a bike before ever getting on the rollers the first time and my balance is fairly good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had learned on a pair of cylindrical rollers, I think I would have ridden off or crashed at least a few times before really getting the hang of it. Not looking down and getting the wheels spinning makes a big difference. The hardest part is getting going. I found it fairly easy to start out by holding on to the doorway and having my bike in a middle gear so I didn't have to shift when starting out. I would then have one hand on the top of my handlebars and start pedaling. Focusing on getting my wheels spinning, I would slowly let go of the doorway but keep my hand there so I could grab the doorway when I wanted. Once I was starting to get comfortable, I slowly let go of the doorway and put both hands on the handlebars. &lt;em&gt;Success!!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wuusg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/bikeride/250957762/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/bikeride/250957762/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="615" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T06:10:40.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T06:23:18.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For:&lt;/strong&gt; Wearing a helmet provides a sliding layer if you crash and slide. Would much rather have my helmet slide against the pavement than my head!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;not my head&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/krr9j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/ian_crowther/2992217413/in/photostream/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/ian_crowther/2992217413/in/photostream/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="615" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T06:23:18.310" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T06:23:18.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T06:24:38.200" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against&lt;/strong&gt;: It may not really be necessary.  If I'm riding very casually with no vehicles, a fall would be similar in effect to falling while jogging.  Both at college where we had roads closed to cars as well as riding around the farm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this implies not riding at speeds where a failure (rider or mechanical) would cause a major problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T06:24:38.200" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T06:24:38.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T08:57:34.937" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against legal requirement:&lt;/strong&gt; In many countries that have made it a legal requirement to wear a bicycle helmet, the number of people cycling has reduced.  Given that the risk of death due to poor health as a result of lack of exercise is a lot greater than the risk of death due to cycling without a helmet; it never makes sense to &lt;strong&gt;require&lt;/strong&gt; people to use a bicycle helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="1510" LastEditDate="2011-05-20T16:52:18.130" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T16:52:18.130" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T08:57:34.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T09:04:27.590" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;A lot of people get the idea that cycling is very dangerous when they get the impression that you should always wear a helmet. In fact the health benefits from cycling outweigh the risks many times over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by wearing a helmet and/or telling other people it is a good idea to wear a helmet you are increasing the number of people that will die (at a early age) from heart attacks etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T11:37:56.313" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T11:37:56.313" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T09:04:27.590" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T09:08:57.090" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;There has been some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drianwalker.com/overtaking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;research&lt;/a&gt; that showed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car drivers tend to think that a cyclist that is wearing a helmet is a safer cyclist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car driver tend to give “safer cyclists” less space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by wearing a helmet you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; increase the risk from car drivers not giving you enough space!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="593" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T13:07:09.880" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T13:07:09.880" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T09:08:57.090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T09:11:38.277" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;Often your friends or family will &lt;strong&gt;think&lt;/strong&gt; are you safer when you wear a helmet; wearing a helmet placates your dearest-and-nearest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wearing a helmet may benefit &lt;strong&gt;their health&lt;/strong&gt; by reducing their stress.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may get nagged less if you wear a helmet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might make sense to wear a helmet if it's not a discussion one cares that passionately about either way, for these reasons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T03:24:25.510" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T03:24:25.510" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T09:11:38.277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T09:17:34.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;A helmet is unlikely to help you if you hit your head very hard on an object.   However it reduces the likelihood of you getting a minor head injury if you fall of your bike and hit your head, or ride into a tree branch at slow speed.&#xA;Therefore wearing a helmet may save you having to spend a few hours in A&amp;amp;E while they check you out, you may also avoid an overnight hospital stay for observation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T11:41:03.283" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T11:41:03.283" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T09:17:34.743" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T09:18:56.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The benefits of wearing a helmet are low; however the cost is also low.  So why not wear one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T09:18:56.177" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T09:18:56.177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T09:49:55.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For:&lt;/strong&gt; When mountainbiking, you can hit and push aside branches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against:&lt;/strong&gt; When not cleaned properly, they get a terrible smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against:&lt;/strong&gt; Ecological impact (Power consumption, CO2, chemicals) of helmet production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="444" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T13:35:40.803" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T13:35:40.803" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T09:49:55.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T10:38:10.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against&lt;/strong&gt;: It's much colder in winter to wear a helmet with an under-helmet cap than a warm winter hat.  (Of course, it's much more dangerous to bike in winter, so this argument is a bit of a moot point...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T10:38:10.170" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T10:38:10.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2010-10-18T13:59:27.197" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q60Di.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;endomondo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.endomondo.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Endomondo&lt;/a&gt;!!!! &lt;em&gt;Free your endorphins&lt;/em&gt; : )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love this app!!! I have used it to track over 1,000 miles of cycling this year. The android app is just a small part of the entire service. With endomondo you get &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;challenges with your friends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;live updating of your route&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;global challenges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;personal bests summary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;teams&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0CcHy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;endomondo workout page&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With their great android app you get the ability to track&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;duration with option of auto pause&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;avg. speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calories&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heart rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;average heart rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;listen/control music&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;view current position and track on map&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;view previous workouts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set goal and get mile by mile updates on progress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Kh1f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;endomondo android app&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally really enjoy being able to use my bluetooth heart rate monitor with this android app. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jkVnE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;zephyr bluetooth heart rate monitor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zephyr-technology.com/9600.0112.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.zephyr-technology.com/9600.0112.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All my workout info is then updated live to the endomondo website where I can later inspect my workout in detail. If you are looking for a service/app to track your rides/workouts you have got to give this one a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="615" LastEditorUserId="454" LastEditDate="2010-10-18T17:02:48.063" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T17:02:48.063" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T13:59:27.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2010-10-18T16:51:17.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rungps.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Run.GPS&lt;/a&gt; is mentioned in the list of apps supporting the Zephyr heart rate monitor. I haven't tried it; anyone who has, feel free to comment or edit this answer with more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T16:51:17.100" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T16:51:17.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2010-10-18T16:52:33.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportstracklive.com/help/android&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SportsTrackLive&lt;/a&gt; is another app listed as supporting the Zephyr heart rate monitor. I haven't tried it; anyone who has, feel free to comment or edit this answer with more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T16:52:33.560" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T16:52:33.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1718" CreationDate="2010-10-18T16:52:58.257" Score="5" ViewCount="8162" Body="&lt;p&gt;About two months ago I bought a Boardman HT Comp. Today I took it into my local bike shop for a service. While I was in the shop one of the technicians had a quick look at it and told me that my bottom bracket needs replacing. All he did was push and pull the cranks from side to side. There was a clicking noise and some visible movement, nothing more than 1-2mm. I've not noticed any problems while on the bike, however I don't have enough riding experience to know what to look for. Is it really possible that after 2 months and this very quick assessment that my bottom bracket needs replacing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eight months down the line it's failed again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="446" LastEditDate="2011-05-21T22:36:38.247" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T23:24:50.007" Title="Does my bottom bracket need replacing?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2010-10-18T16:59:47.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not the most convenient way of measuring your heart rate while cycling, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instantheartrate.com/android.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Instant Heart Rate&lt;/a&gt; is a neat program which might be useful when you to take a break. You use your phone's camera and LED flash (if it has one, otherwise any bright light source) to measure your heart rate by pressing the camera and flash against your finger, and it detects fluctuations in the oxygen content of your blood by detecting changes in color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T16:59:47.597" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T16:59:47.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1715" CreationDate="2010-10-18T17:20:31.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's only 2 months old, they have to replace the broken part in guarantee for free. Isn't it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways I checked the specs, this bike has Truvativ Firex GXP crankset. It has integrated bearing, so it should not move side to side. The clicking noise usually means loose or damaged bottom bracket. First I would try to reinstall the crankset with correct lubrication and optimal torque. And if it does not help, it has to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="606" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T17:20:31.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T17:56:00.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For: Statistics&lt;/strong&gt; - Bicyclist deaths by helmet use, 1998-2008&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Ninety-one percent of bicyclists killed in 2008 reportedly weren't wearing helmets&quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iihs.org/research/fatality_facts_2008/bicycles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.iihs.org/research/fatality_facts_2008/bicycles.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/em&gt; - This statistic was provided to me in a handout at a workplace safety and first aid workshop conducted by the Red Cross. Cycling was included in the safety section because the company has a considerable number of bike commuters. Both the company and the Red Cross promote helmet usage based on this and similar statistics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T04:59:22.813" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T04:59:22.813" CommentCount="9" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T17:56:00.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1722" CreationDate="2010-10-18T20:18:28.217" Score="21" ViewCount="2528" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commute takes me along a fairly busy road, with 4 lanes of traffic and parked cars along most of it. There are no bike lanes, but in some places, it's wide enough that I can easily pass traffic on the right (which is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.malegislature.gov/Laws/GeneralLaws/PartI/TitleXIV/Chapter85/Section11b&quot;&gt;legal&lt;/a&gt; in my state, as far as I can tell), and in some places, there's actually a whole extra lane on the right for a block or two. However, the conditions change from block to block. On some of the blocks, there is not enough room to pass safely on the right of cars, and there are some places where the extra lane on the right no longer exists across the intersection or is filled with parked cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several times when I've passed cars on the right, either in a full lane or in the room between a lane of stopped cars and parked cars, and then realized after crossing through the next intersection that I need to merge back into the next lane. What is the etiquette of merging back into the next lane in such circumstances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few possibilities that I've tried, and all of them seem unsatisfying in certain ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue to travel in the lane that will run out until it actually does, then stop and wait for a gap in the traffic before merging in. That can sometimes require stopping and waiting for quite a while, due to busy traffic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Signal to the left in advance of running out of the lane, check for a reasonable gap in the cars while still moving, and merge into that gap once I've determined it's safe, or fall back to the first option if that doesn't work. The problem is, this requires a good deal of judgement to tell when there's a good enough gap in traffic to merge back in, I can only glance back quickly and not make good eye contact with drivers in the lane I'm merging into since I need to be paying attention to what's ahead of me as well, and I'm not sure if I'm cutting people off too closely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pass the cars on the right, then pull up in front of them at a stop light so I can take the lane when it turns green. This makes me feel like a jerk, like I'm cutting in line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simply stay in, and take, the lane that doesn't keep disappearing. This is what I would do if I were driving a car. The problems are that I get stuck in stop-and-go traffic which slows me down, I have to breathe in the smog of trucks and busses in front of me as I wait, and I hold up somewhat more traffic as I don't take several of the block-long opportunities to make it easy for cars to pass me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run red lights. This way, I can actually get into the lane I need to before I have to contend with cars. The disadvantage is, of course, that I'm running red lights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="350" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T22:21:03.950" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:21:03.950" Title="Passing cars on the right, and later merging into their lane" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1721" CreationDate="2010-10-18T20:35:13.040" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems to me that &lt;strong&gt;your best option is choice 2: Signal to the left in advance of running out of the lane, check for a reasonable gap in the cars while still moving, and merge into that gap once you've determined that it's safe.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that option you are essentially behaving like exactly what you are - a slow moving vehicle.  Your behavior is like what you would expect if you were operating a tractor, or a horse-drawn carriage.  You operate in the lane when neccessary, move over to the right to allow others to pass when safe and convenient, and carefully merge back into the traffic lane when the shoulder is no longer safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While doing this you want to avoid weaving in and out of traffic every few feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also similar and predictable behavior much like what you need to do when the shoulder runs out as a right-turn only lane blocks your path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1 is unsatisfactory because you lose momentum and will have a difficult time merging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 3 is a poor choice, not from the issue of passing cars on the right (which while legal in many areas, is dangerous), but because it's rude and then forces cars to pass you later - playing leapfrog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 4 is a possibility, but then again, think about operating a 'slow moving vehicle.'  If you are consistently the same speed as motorists, you may stay in the lane, particularly if the shoulder is unsafe, otherwise, move over and let them pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 5 is the poorest choice.  You may be able to cross against the light safely, but not only is it risky, it makes you a poor ambassador of cycling, causing motorists to be angry at other cyclist, and frequently puts you back in the leapfrog situation.  Plus, you could get a ticket, at least in my town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T20:35:13.040" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-18T22:01:19.933" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against compulsory&lt;/strong&gt;: where it is compulsory it discourages people from cycling -&gt; they drive instead -&gt; more cars+fewer cyclists make it more dangerous for cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I wear one, but this is the main argument against compulsory helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T16:37:36.970" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T16:37:36.970" CommentCount="7" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-18T22:01:19.933" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2010-10-18T22:20:36.450" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Giant Tolkien-dwarf style Axe strapped to your back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An assault rifle slung over one arm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waving a sword around your head ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2010-10-18T22:20:36.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1731" CreationDate="2010-10-19T03:39:13.250" Score="13" ViewCount="63583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to remove the chain on my internal-hub cruiser to clean it (i.e., no rear or front deraileur), and I'd rather not remove my back wheel if I can avoid that. What do I look for to find the master link?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Unfortunately, there's no differently-colored pin, and running my fingertips over the chain (both sides) didn't help. Do I have a one-piece chain? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T03:58:13.910" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T23:42:43.970" Title="How can I tell if a chain has a master link?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1726" CreationDate="2010-10-19T03:43:49.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually the pin through the link is a different colour, for example black instead of the more usual brass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T03:43:49.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-10-19T03:49:15.737" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Internally-Geared Hub&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A setup where the gearing mechanism is sealed in the rear wheel's hub, away from water, road salt, and other contaminants. Internally-geared hubs require much less in the way of cleaning than traditional drive-trains. These hubs are popular with commuters or other utility cyclists that will be ride in the snow and rain. They are also popular on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/263#263&quot;&gt;folding bikes&lt;/a&gt;, as they are suited for bikes taken on crowded trains. When coupled with a single front chainring, IGH drivetrains permit the installation of a full chain guard, which most external gear systems don't allow. They can also shift when the bicycle is completely stopped, unlike derailleur drivetrains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Internal hubs are slightly heavier than comparable external drive-trains. They also have &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/188/whats-the-efficiency-of-hub-gears-compared-to-derailleurs&quot;&gt;greater drivetrain friction&lt;/a&gt; than a well-maintained external drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will typically require oil to lubricate the gears, which can be injected through a port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/5471749371/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Hub by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5100/5471749371_ecfb3b434b.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;375&quot; alt=&quot;Hub&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/internal-gears.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown: Internal-Gear Hubs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T03:51:00.857" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-19T03:49:15.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1644" CreationDate="2010-10-19T03:56:27.973" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openstreetmap.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;openstreetmap.org&lt;/a&gt; is a google map style map built from user supplied data.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can upload GPS tracks and edit the existing map data to add cycle routes or tracks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T03:56:27.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1726" CreationDate="2010-10-19T04:26:35.277" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when I talk about or hear someone use the term 'Master Link' they mean something like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mq6JS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;master links&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are links that can be seperated without the use of a specialized chain tool to push a pin through the rollers.  There are others besides those shown, one of the more common being an SRAM Power Link which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/373VL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a link like those that is visibly different what you most likely have is a Shimano style HG or IG chain that requires the use of a chain tool to remove a pin from the roller.  Frequently the pins will have a little indentation where the chain tool seats.  When you break the chain with a chain tool, you normally reassemble it with a replacement pin that looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEZlV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the chain is back together you break off the insertion portion of the pin with a pair of pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T04:54:43.197" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T04:54:43.197" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1740" CreationDate="2010-10-19T05:40:14.147" Score="37" ViewCount="26336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't cycled for many years already and long ago when I was cycling I didn't pay much attention to equipment. Now I see that many cyclists wear a certain kind of gloves - that only cover the palm and leave the fingers uncovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the purpose of wearing such gloves (and not usual gloves for example)? In what non-cycling activities can such gloves be useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-06-04T04:16:27.923" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T03:11:03.897" Title="What's the purpose of cycling gloves?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;gloves&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1732" CreationDate="2010-10-19T06:03:53.330" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling gloves come in different varieties (like full-fingered or half-fingered). Typically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling gloves have extra padding at the palms, which for me makes a difference when riding for hours at a time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They protect your palms in case you attempt to use them to break a fall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Like regular gloves, they can keep your hands warm in cold weather, especially since your hands aren't moving as much as your legs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My particular pair of cycling gloves have a &quot;towel&quot; built in at the base of the thumb &quot;finger&quot; so I can actually wipe off water/sweat by running my fist over it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T08:11:19.477" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T08:11:19.477" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-19T07:12:08.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For&lt;/strong&gt; Scientific research. (I may be able to do an against or at least inconclusive as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A review of studies: REVIEWER'S CONCLUSIONS: Helmets reduce bicycle-related head and facial injuries for bicyclists of all ages involved in all types of crashes including those involving motor vehicles. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10796827&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10796827&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A case control study: We conclude that bicycle safety helmets are highly effective in preventing head injury. Helmets are particularly important for children, since they suffer the majority of serious head injuries from bicycling accidents. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2716781&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2716781&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another review regarding competitive cycling: The scientific evidence that bicycle helmets protect against head, brain and facial injuries has been well established by 5 well designed case-control studies. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9587180&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9587180&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A review regarding bicycle helmet legislation: Head injuries related to bicycle use are common and can be serious. They can be prevented or reduced in severity with helmet use; however, education has resulted in modest helmet use in most developed countries. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16595420&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16595420&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just a few. There is a complaint present in several studies about the lack of randomized controlled trials. There are also numerous studies regarding the use of helmets by children. An issue that comes up is that it's difficult to determine whether children are using properly fitted/properly worn helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T07:12:08.177" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-19T07:12:08.177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1732" CreationDate="2010-10-19T07:32:23.797" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling gloves dampen the vibrations coming into your hands from your handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that if I cycle for more than one or two hours without gloves I slowly loose feeling in the tips of my fingers and I get a tingling feeling in the pinky side of my palms near my wrist. This slowly spreads to essentially make both my hands feel numb. It goes away quickly when I get off the bike at first, but during cycling holidays where riding a bike is a daily activity I ended up with numb hands essentially all the time. Simple cycling gloves have solved this for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that front suspension would probably address at least part of the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T07:32:23.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T08:27:54.487" Score="24" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1644&quot;&gt;question about submitting road data to google maps&lt;/a&gt;. I'm curious to know if there is any way to get Google started on cycling data in my city. There are a lot of cyclists in my city, but as it is located outside of the US, it will probably take some time before cycling directions show up on Google Maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem to be possible to use the &quot;report a problem&quot; feature of maps to add new route data.  But what can I do if there is no cycling data to begin with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T21:18:47.027" Title="Do I have to simply wait for google maps to add cycling directions to my area? Or can I help?" Tags="&lt;maps&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1736" CreationDate="2010-10-19T08:45:20.847" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.opencyclemap.org/&quot;&gt;http://www.opencyclemap.org/&lt;/a&gt; it uses the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openstreetmap.org/&quot;&gt;http://www.openstreetmap.org/&lt;/a&gt; data, so you can help them by mapping your local cycle ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2011-01-25T09:05:45.547" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T09:05:45.547" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1732" CreationDate="2010-10-19T08:46:10.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Padding and warmth are covered in other answers, but in the winter I have a third use. In the warmer weather my fingers swell slightly, which doesn't happen so much in the winter, so my wedding ring has a tendency to be looser in colder weather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long fingered gloves stop me from worrying so much about it slipping off when on bumpier rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T08:46:10.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1732" CreationDate="2010-10-19T12:19:15.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the second question.  Gloves like that are great for working on cars...  The padded palm keeps you from tearing up your hands on old rusty parts.  The top of the hand is covered for when you slip and bang into sharp rusty parts.  The fingers are exposed so you can still easily grip small parts.  I find they work much better than traditional &quot;full finger&quot; mechanics gloves...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T12:19:15.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1732" CreationDate="2010-10-19T12:33:16.680" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling gloves do a few basic things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduce friction between your hands and handlebars, which could otherwise cause blisters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dampen vibrations which might cause hand/finger numbness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduce pressure on your ulnar nerve, which also causes numbness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if none of these are problems for you, it's fine to ride without them.  Other types of gloves should offer similar benefits too (wool gloves with &quot;grippy&quot; palms are nice in cold, wet weather).  I try to ride without cycling gloves for rides up to an hour to toughen my palms and reduce the bizarre tan lines the gloves create.  But for longer rides (especially randonneuring, which is 200km+) I can't ride without them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else can you use them for?  Basically anything where a padded palm would help.  They make great workout gloves, and I've occasionally used a pair for paddling, doing yard work or helping someone move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T12:33:16.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1721" CreationDate="2010-10-19T12:46:20.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to pass on the right but have started to see the benefits of using option 4 (stay in the lane) whenever possible.  It can be a bit slower, but by keeping your lane position you stay highly visible to drivers around you, don't have to worry about merging or losing your place, and run less risk of getting &quot;right hooked&quot; by someone turning right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll only move over to the right if it's a proper lane (i.e. no parked cars and not a right turning lane) or to let cars pass me if I know I can get back in easily.  If the lane you're riding in ends, then option 2 (signal then merge when safe) is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you're on a busy road or highway and there's a decent shoulder, then by all means use it instead of the lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T12:46:20.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1732" CreationDate="2010-10-19T13:49:47.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gloves do help with hand numbness/discomfort, but the primary benefit to me is safety. If you fall and take a handlebar spill, your hands won't be torn up if you instinctively put your hands out to protect you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T13:49:47.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T14:34:55.827" Score="60" ViewCount="36014" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to get a helmet that covers your entire head and face, and in theory would protect you against more kinds of falls. In particular, Why don't bicyclists wear them, and why &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; motorcyclists wear them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not asking whether helmets are a good idea in general. (Please try to answer this with &lt;em&gt;complete&lt;/em&gt; answers, rather than the single-point style of the currently running helmet thread.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T07:45:15.533" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T21:04:02.230" Title="Why don't cyclists wear all-encompassing motorcycle-style helmets?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2010-10-19T14:47:11.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cyclists do, specifically in the types of cycling that are more prone to falls, or where falling into obstacles like trees are more likely. Specifically, down-hill or BMX style helmets usually cover parts of the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, motorcycle helmets and full-face bicycling helmets are hotter and heavier, making them less well suited for exercise or strenuous activity. Conversely cycling helmets meant for on-road use are extremely light weight and usually contain a large number of holes allowing airflow to evaporate sweat and cool the wearer, while providing good protection for falls on flat pavement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unless you have a specific &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; for additoinal protection, &quot;all-encompassing motorcycle-style&quot; helmets generally not worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T14:40:54.813" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T14:40:54.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1732" CreationDate="2010-10-19T14:56:17.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;aside from the warmth and padding, I also wear them to protect my hands in case of wipeout. grinding gravel into my palms doesn't sound like a fun thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T14:56:17.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2010-10-19T15:14:44.563" Score="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some bicyclists do wear full-face helmets; in particular, downhill mountain bikers and BMXers will frequently wear full-face helmets, as the chance of a crash causing you to land on your face is greater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with full-face helmets is that they're hotter; your head is great for getting rid of excess heat, and the full-face helmet helps trap more of that in. Motorcyclists aren't pedaling furiously, and don't need to lose as much heat; heat management is essential for bicycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, motorcycle accidents tend to happen at higher speeds. On a bike, you're pretty unlikely to wipe out at 60 MPH, while on a motorcycle, it's all too possible. Between the lower risk on a bike, the heat issues, and the extra cost of full-face helmets, for most people it's not worth it to wear the full face helmet on their bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any safety feature is a trade-off, between the costs of implementing the feature and the harm or damage that it prevents. When the cost of implementing the feature exceed the expected value of the feature in harm reduction (taking into account the likelihood of the particular form of accident happening, and how severe the damage is), then it doesn't make sense to use that feature. People all assign different values to certain types of harm or damage, and also have different risks based on how they ride and what their environment is like. For some people, wearing a full-face helmet may be worth the extra expense and heat, but most people don't find it's worth that trade-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, for many of these decisions, we don't have enough information; there isn't very much conclusive real-world data on the efficacy of bike helmets, let alone different types of bike helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T17:24:42.673" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T17:24:42.673" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2010-10-19T15:42:47.147" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclelondoncity.blogspot.com/2010/10/english-streets-are-too-old-and-small.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this recent blog post&lt;/a&gt;, the author (not me, I just subscribe to their feed) indirectly addresses your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My grandmother used to cycle about in a skirt when we were in Germany together. She wasn't very fast. Actually, I'd say she was about as fast as a very small hamster, or thereabouts. I don't think she was pretending to be a motorbike. But she liked it that way. In fact, she  used to cycle in England too. But then again, so did all her friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Funnily enough, she never liked to cycle in England in her later years. Precisely because in England, people expected her to behave like a motorbike. She thought helmets daft. She also resented having to dress up like a belisha beacon just because our streets feel like 'spaghetii junction' (her words not mine). I think she saw herself as, well, herself. Just an old lady on a bicycle. And, frankly, her revs weren't what they used to be. So the chances of her pedalling along at the same speed as a Ducati were fairly slim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't wear a full-face, whole-head helmet because I've weighed up the risks and I don't need one. I'm not a motorcyclist, I don't have to confront the same dangers a motorbike rider does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full-head helmets for bikes are available, so where there's a demand, there is a supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T15:42:47.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1799" CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:00:48.827" Score="15" ViewCount="3599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several extra tires, two on a spare wheelset, and others in a bundle.  I am not riding as much as I was a year ago, so I will not be wearing out tires as fast as I was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way and conditions to store these tires so that the rubber doesn't just crack and split when I put them on wheels and pump them up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I don't know if it makes a difference, but I live at about 5000' of elevation in a very dry climate; forced air heating is used in my apartment about 6 months a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More info as an example&lt;/strong&gt;: I had tires mounted on wheels, deflated, hanging from ceiling hooks.  I don't know how long it was that I hadn't used them but it was probably 12+ months.  When I inflated them a week ago to the recommended pressure the sidewalls showed cracking parallel to the rim on the whole, or nearly the whole circumference of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T22:41:08.360" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T03:50:14.117" Title="What is the proper way to store tires to prevent cracking?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1749" CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:05:48.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always unfurl them, and hang them all off a hook.  That way the weight is all on the hardened parts that connect to the rim, and not on the softer, road-facing, portions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T17:05:48.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1768" CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:13:21.583" Score="21" ViewCount="14692" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our climate, it rains pretty steadily for 3 seasons. Would a leather saddle (like a Brooks) be appropriate for my bike, or should I look for a different material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T14:55:13.003" Title="Is a leather saddle appropriate for all-weather riding?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:21:02.053" Score="6" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an annual rite, I typically ride in one or more organized centuries and other organized rides. All of those rides usually have a name that exemplify the ride in some way. For example &quot;The Chilly Hilly&quot; or the &quot;Torture 10,000&quot; or &quot;Reach the Beach&quot;, etc. Additionally, I travel a bit and attempt to incorporate cycling when possible. &lt;em&gt;So, I'm looking for possibilities for the next time I hit the road.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is a notable organized ride that you have done, would like to do, or have considered?&lt;/em&gt; (A brief description and/or link would be nice as well.) Basically, I can of course google this, but that lacks the element of first hand experience that I feel I can get from this site. For all I know, something like the &quot;Wilson County Wander&quot; might be a superb hidden gem and by googling, it would never bubble to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is an international forum, metric centuries or other organized ride suggestions are also encouraged. (Although I'm not sure if these types of rides are common outside of the U.S.) As an example, I have done rides in the wine regions of the Pacific NW, and theoretically could find myself in wine regions elsewhere at some point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjectives for outstanding could include things like, beautiful scenery, physically challenging, excellent support, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is a CW, only one answer per customer please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T19:18:59.913" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T01:00:17.283" Title="Outstanding Organized Rides" Tags="&lt;travelling&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;&lt;organized-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T18:26:44.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1751" CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:24:32.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your case I would say that you can use a Brooks-style leather saddle with two recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fenders - having fenders on your bike will keep much of the water and gunk off the underside of your seat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a waterproof seat cover. Velox used to make a great one, which you can still find sometimes online.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/waterproof-aardvark-saddle-cover/11-080&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rivendell sells one&lt;/a&gt; that looks very similar but I have not used it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have used a leather saddle before and want to make it work in your climate, I would give it a try with those two changes.  If you are just considering switching, I would probably stick to a modern style saddle like the Specialized Body Geometry series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T17:24:32.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1762" CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:37:34.250" Score="6" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barring taking a helmet on a 50-mile ride before buying it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some kinds of chin straps, for example, won't stay tight, and some kinds of cages aren't comfortable no matter how I adjust them. What should I look for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a product recommendation question (although that would be nice). I'm interested in knowing what features to look for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, is there anything I can do to an existing helmet to make it more comfortable on longer rides? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If it'll help, I ride for commuting, running errands, and touring; aero or ultra-light features are appreciated but aren't a priority, but ventilation is important.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T19:39:40.920" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:39:40.920" Title="How can I tell if a helmet will be comfortable before buying?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1755" CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:48:10.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For stuff like that, I just tend to find a bike shop I trust, and listen to what they have to say about different helmets.  They get a lot of feedback about the equipment they sell, so if a particular helmet doesn't stay adjusted, they'd know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it's important you do trust them, both to actually collect the feedback and not ignore it, and also to not just try to sell you the most expensive item they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But building a good relationship with an awesome bike shop is something I think every serious cyclist should do anyway, so this would just be the payoff :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T17:48:10.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1732" CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:54:42.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you fall off a bike your natural reactions will lead to putting your hands out to stop your fall. Your hands are quite likely to hit the ground first so gloves provide some protection against that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comfort is another factor - damping vibration and providing protection from the elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending upon your climate you may want different gloves for different seasons. I wear motorcycle gloves on my bicycle in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="carl" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T17:54:42.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1755" CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:54:59.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Past performance is the best indicator, if you have a helmet that you like.  Most helmet companies vary the shape and suspension very little between models.  For instance, the company may have a few low end models that use only adhesive or velcro pads and straps, then a set of mid to upper end models with more of a suspended 'cage' harness and straps.  The harness may adjust with sliders or with a dial, but will have a fit fairly similar between models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never spent more than $60 on a helmet, so I can't speak about high-end models, but I know from past experience that one particular company makes a helmet/harness system that fits my head substantially better than the two others that I have tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T17:54:59.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1770" CreationDate="2010-10-19T18:45:27.100" Score="16" ViewCount="24053" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do pro riders use compact cranksets for hilly races? I'm trying to determine if switching to a compact double will mean I don't have the top end speed to be competitive in higher levels of racing (I'm not a pro racer) and unfortunatly I haven't been able to find information on the setup of top racers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T21:17:41.547" Title="Do Pros use compact cranksets?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;compact-crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1764" CreationDate="2010-10-19T18:48:24.563" Score="6" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should one look for when picking Chamois Creme? Are there ingredients to stay away from or that should be in a quality creme?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T19:10:12.180" Title="Picking Chamois Creme" Tags="&lt;chamois&gt;&lt;chamois-creme&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1765" CreationDate="2010-10-19T18:50:18.183" Score="8" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does chamois creme have any effect on the life of cycling shorts? I know it's made to be used for cycling but does it make the chamois (or maybe a synthetic one) wear out faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T20:51:37.823" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T20:51:37.823" Title="Does chamois creme affect the life of cycling shorts?" Tags="&lt;chamois&gt;&lt;chamois-creme&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1755" CreationDate="2010-10-19T18:52:21.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put one on your head, adjust it to fit, and then try to slide it off your head in all directions. If you feel any pressure points or hot spots, you then need to determine if that will be alleviated by the little bits of foam included with most helmets, or if you need a different size or model of helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as long-ride wear-ability is concerned, when you try on a helmet you need to be very aware of places the hard foam contacts your head. You also need to be aware of the weight of the helmet and ventilation when you start thinking about long rides. In most cases, for rides longer than about 2 hours, a more expensive (read: lighter and more ventilated) helmet will be more comfortable IF and only if it fits ok on your head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T18:52:21.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2010-10-19T18:57:40.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll go one further than everyone else and say get a pair of good bib shorts. My cheap-ish ($80) bib shorts are much more comfortable than my more expensive ($110) normal shorts. I doubt I'll ever buy non-bibs again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T18:57:40.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1760" CreationDate="2010-10-19T19:10:12.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look for the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't transition from smooth (good) to sticky (bad) over the course of a long ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to apply before a ride, and during if needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reasonably easy to wash off from both skin and shorts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hypoallergenic if possible.  Even if you're not initially allergic to the ingredients, it's possible to develop something after enough use -- happened to me with sunscreen during a summer of touring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using BodyGlide for randonneuring for about 3 years now and it meets all of my criteria.  It comes in a deodorant stick format which is easy to apply and doesn't seem to break down even on 600km rides (although it does need re-application every 200-300km).  The only problem is it doesn't ever completely wash out of the chamois, but that almost seems like a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T19:10:12.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1761" CreationDate="2010-10-19T19:14:17.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a followup to my answer on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1760/picking-chamois-creme/1764#1764&quot;&gt;&quot;Picking Chamois Creme&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, BodyGlide hasn't affected the life of my shorts so far after 3 years of heavy use.  But it never completely washes out either.  My experience with other products is too limited to comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T19:14:17.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1732" CreationDate="2010-10-19T19:29:22.073" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;For bmx, the greatest benefit is grip. If your hands are sweaty, you'll have to apply a lot of extra force to prevent throttle grip. Gloves eliminate all that. Also, the padded palms work nice to prevent meat paw, terry cloth thumb is good for wiping sweat away, and there is usually some tacky material on the fingers for good brake lever grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T19:29:22.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2010-10-19T19:32:19.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;300 km, Vancouver Island, Canada&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're ever near Vancouver Island (Canada) and are looking for a very challenging, scenic route, Ken Bonner of the BC Randonneurs organizes a 300km ride called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.randonneurs.bc.ca/eau-de-hell-week/route_vi_300h.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Alive are the Hills&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; as part of Eau de Hell Week.  For less than a double century you get 4100m (13,700') of climbing on plenty of quiet country roads.  It's a very memorable ride, especially if you've done the 200km the day before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a self-supported ride, meaning you'll see someone at the start &amp;amp; finish, but probably no one except your fellow riders in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:55:54.953" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T18:26:44.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1751" CreationDate="2010-10-19T19:43:04.000" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a Brooks saddle in a similar climate (Vancouver, BC) without any major issues.  Treat the topside with Proofide every 6-12 months and keep the underside dry (fenders, wedge bag, etc).  Store the bike in a dry place between rides so that the leather can dry out naturally.  A saddle cover would probably help but I've never used one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T19:43:04.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:00:04.170" Score="0" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/820/pros-and-cons-panniers-and-messenger-bags&quot;&gt;Pros and cons panniers and messenger bags&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute about 5 miles each way to work. I usually travel light; I don't carry much with me other than the contents of my pockets. Sometimes I need to take my laptop home for a night or a weekend, to be able to get some work done or be on call. And sometimes on weekends I run errands on my bike, and need to pick something up at the store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several options for carrying things on my bike. I've tried my backpack, but that usually leaves my back covered in sweat when I get to work or get home. I've tried my laptop case, which has a shoulder strap, but that hangs down a little too low so it sometimes interferes with me getting back up in my saddle, and it sometimes slides around to my side so I need to adjust it while riding. Some other options would be a rack and panniers, a front basket, or a messenger bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which will work best for somewhat flexible storage needs, be able to carry a laptop safely, and not add too much weight when I want to ride light and not carry anything with me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:00:04.170" Title="Best cargo storage on a commuter bike" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2010-10-19T21:41:34.943" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1759" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:08:54.127" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;While pro riders often change gearing or whole bikes depending on the nature of the race or the stage, you do sometimes see compact cranksets, particularly among domestiques in mountain stages or races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big-name example is Tyler Hamilton in the 2003 Tour De France. After crashing and breaking  his collarbone before the huge mountain stages he was unable to climb out of the saddle. FSA who makes compact cranksets and was a team sponsor set up his bike with a 52/36 crank; allowing him to climb seated.  FSA did a couple of releases and maybe ads about it - and I started to see a lot more compact doubles in local rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just note - a lot of times you can accomplish the same goal (bigger and smaller gearing) by switching the typical 12-23 racing cassette for one that is 11-25 or 11-27 at a lower cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play around with &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift.html&quot;&gt;Mike Sherman's Bicycle Gear Calculator&lt;/a&gt; to help you make a decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T20:14:02.913" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:14:02.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1782" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:28:33.280" Score="8" ViewCount="4646" Body="&lt;p&gt;What things do I have to consider when planning to switch parts from one frame (old one) to another frame (new one)? Will all the parts transfer? What items may need replacement because they won't fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T02:47:56.233" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T02:47:56.233" Title="Switching Parts to a New Frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1777" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:34:15.913" Score="33" ViewCount="9664" Body="&lt;p&gt;When cycling uphill on a road, what are the pros and cons of cycling while standing up on pedal versus sitting on saddle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T03:51:59.497" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T07:49:45.813" Title="Cycling uphill on a road - sitting or standing on pedals?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:37:40.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've already fell into the ground, and I'm lucky I was wearing a helmet. I do know the impact, and I say to everybody: it's better, it's safer, it's necessary to wear helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People say helmets are ugly, but I think an bleeding head is uglier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Esdras Beleza" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:37:40.867" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-19T20:37:40.867" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1786" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:41:14.240" Score="22" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently saw a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/vancouvercommuter&quot;&gt;YouTube channel&lt;/a&gt; where a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vancourier.com/travel/videos+target+cycling+scofflaws/3505855/story.html&quot;&gt;motorist with an agenda&lt;/a&gt; has taken it upon himself to film cyclists as they break traffic laws. Most (perhaps not all) of the actions I observed would be what I consider reasonable out of necessity or convenience &lt;em&gt;(nb: cycling bias!)&lt;/em&gt;, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;riding between the parking lane and the traffic lane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;passing on the right when safe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yielding in lieu of stopping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most jurisdictions where a Motor Vehicle Act is applied to non-conventional vehicles in the roadway (electric, pedal, etc.), there seems to be an unspoken grey area where the letter of the law is not recognized by cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone codified this grey area in traffic law vs. etiquette in a way that's better defined &amp;amp; acceptable to both motorists &amp;amp; cyclists? (Arguably everything should be covered by traffic laws.) Could a better definition of this grey area help justify the need for special consideration under the law, or do you think &quot;bikes are traffic, period&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="640" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T22:19:54.310" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T19:36:28.610" Title="Do cyclists warrant special consideration under traffic laws?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;advocacy&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1774" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:49:02.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think bikes are indeed, traffic, and should follow all the appropriate laws.  In the ideal world, of course, some of those laws might consider the fact that bikes are vehicles, and include whatever provisions make sense for bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, sure, there are plenty of cyclists out there that break traffic laws, just as there are many drivers who do as well.  I honestly don't feel that one group concentrating on the other leads to any good.  You do what you can to be a considerate and skilled driver, and I'll do what I can to be a considerate and skilled cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:49:02.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1686" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:50:26.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Austin, Texas, &lt;a href=&quot;http://austinyellowbike.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yellow Bike Project&lt;/a&gt; (YBP) accepts bikes and parts.  The organization is an opened all-volunteered based community.  I have volunteered to fix up bikes before and met people who have gotten free bikes from YBP :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Kin Ueng" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:50:26.560" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-19T20:50:26.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:05:39.553" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're most efficient sitting with a cadence between 80 - 100 (faster if you can do it) so it's recommended that you stay seated as much as possible. For mountain biking staying seated increases the weight on your rear tire and reduces the chances of it slipping as long as you can keep a smooth spin stroke and not 'mash' the pedals on the down stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standing is harder on your body but in long climbs it's great to switch it up so that you move some of the force around your muscles and give them a break. Standing is also great to get you up that 'really steep' part of a climb or to sprint over the top and lose your friends (or win a race). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated above stay seated with a high cadence for as long as possible. Switch up to standing as needed to give yourself a break or an extra boost of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T02:49:15.590" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T02:49:15.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:22:18.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gold Bond&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R3GMN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never leave home without it. Great when riding all day. However, I would not recommend applying it to an already chaffed area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:22:18.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:28:17.153" Score="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a number of other posts have pointed out, your &lt;strong&gt;best&lt;/strong&gt; option is to get yourself a proper repair stand. They are not that expensive, and you will find that you and your friends all get good use out of it. But, if you are determined to do it on the cheap, here are a couple of techniques that worked for me before getting a workstand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turning the bike upside down&lt;/strong&gt; - this is really simple and requires no additional purchase. You may want to look at putting some form of drop sheet down underneath the bike both to protect the saddle and handlebars, and to catch drips. This works well for pretty much any work on the wheels or transmission.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A bike storage rack or car rack&lt;/strong&gt; - obviously these are already designed to hold a bike, and you may already have one to hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspending the bike with rope&lt;/strong&gt; - If you have some overhead attachment points, this can work, however it is not going to provide an immovable mount for the bike - you will still need to hold the bike against the force of your tools when fastening and unfastening things. A trick to be aware of is to use two suspension points overhead and two on the bike (head tube and seat tube) otherwise the bike will spin in the air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:28:17.153" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="530" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:29:28.853" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've use glueless patches for a number of tube repairs and have found them to be just as durable as the glued patches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:29:28.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1771" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:50:11.657" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Areas that you need to check and consider are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom bracket size and type&lt;/strong&gt; - the bottom bracket shell on a frame can vary in overall width, and in the type of bottom bracket that it is machined for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Headset diameter&lt;/strong&gt; - different frames can have different headset diameters. I think the common ones around at the moment are 1 1/16&quot;, 1 1/8&quot;, 1 1/4&quot; and een 1 1/2&quot;. Some frames have different sizes at the top and bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Length of head tube&lt;/strong&gt; - important if you are swapping the fork over and have trimmed the steerer tube to length on the original bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake mounting type&lt;/strong&gt; - obviously cantilevers have a different mounting type to calipers and disc brakes. Additionally, there are a number of different disk brake mounts out there (although this is much more standardised these days).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seat tube diameter&lt;/strong&gt; - these can be different between bikes and will affect whether you can transfer the seat post across.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drop out spacing&lt;/strong&gt; - this differs between road and mountain bike frames (120mm and 135mm if I recall correctly), but should matter if you are keeping to the same style of bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Length of cable runs&lt;/strong&gt; - depending upon how each frame routes the brake and gear cables, you may need new cables and/or outers. I'd suggest replacing these anyway as they are pretty cheap, the replacement will improve your shifting and braking performance and you can get the outer lengths just right for the new frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Front derailleur mounting and pull direction&lt;/strong&gt; - does it clamp to the seat tube, or to a braze-on on the seat tube? Is it a top pull or a bottom pull derailleur?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:50:11.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1771" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:54:17.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the key considerations off the top of my head in addition to what @deemar has said (must be a faster typist) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do derailleurs attach with braze-ons or clamps, and are those compatible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's a road bike, will there be sufficient clearance between the tire and the frame or brakes?  Many touring bikes use tires/rims that are too wide for a frame targeted at racing or more aggressive road riders. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:54:17.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1774" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:59:25.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer is definitely yes, and this is certainly the case in Australia. Of the three examples you have cited, two of them are explicitly allowed under the road rules for cycling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Passing on the outside (i.e. left, as we ride and drive on the opposite side of the road to you guys), and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding between the parking lane and the traffic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as well as special rights, we should expect that there are also specific responsibilities for us cyclists. Again, in Australia, we are not allowed to ride more than two abreast in a traffic lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:59:25.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1628" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:18:21.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easier for beginners?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly less of a panic when you come to a stop at a light, pause, look down and realise you forgot to unclip - as you slowly fall over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T04:11:29.080" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T04:11:29.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1774" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:20:44.917" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before posting this list, I need to preface it with my position that riding in a predictable manner, as much like a 'vehicle' as possible is safest to me.  &lt;strong&gt;To a large degree I disagree with treating bicycles differently because&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It confuses interaction with&#xA;motorists, especially at&#xA;intersections where the risk is&#xA;highest for cyclists. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not all motorists or cyclist will know their&#xA;rights/responsibilities.  It's hard&#xA;enough to educate both side now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think the time/speed/safety gains for&#xA;the average cyclist would be very&#xA;small.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said there are exceptions in almost every jurisdiction already, allowing use on paths and sidewalks, allowing passing on the right, etc. - &lt;strong&gt;these are the common arguments I hear in favor of different treatment&lt;/strong&gt;, primarily as it relates to an Idaho style 'Stop as Yield' law:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bicyclists have to expend their own energy to start and stop--it's a courtesy to let them pass just as it is to yield to someone carrying something heavy or bulky.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bicyclists have better awareness of surroundings (better field of vision, higher than cars. fewer distractions).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bicyclists can avoid collisions better (sharper turning radius, much less width, less speed and weight to manage, can become flush with the side of the road almost instantly, can stop in a shorter distance);&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most bicyclists treating a stop as a yield pass through stop signs at a similar speed as most motorists (who usually don't stop), but comparing the straightaway speed difference, it may seem like the motorist is &quot;stopping&quot; while the cyclist isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stopped cyclists are unable to avoid the pollution of stopped cars. Pollution tends to be highest at stops.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists waiting in traffic can cause more problems for all--not only by blocking turns (which often elicits prejudicial anger from motorists) but there is an increased chance of being rear-ended for the cyclist. (&lt;em&gt;Proper lane positioning avoids this - gr)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frequent stopping is associated with long-term chronic knee problems from the pressure required to start again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most cyclists responsibly &quot;run&quot; stop signs at present, showing that the law simply doesn't work for people.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists don't endanger the public as cars do and have not been properly accommodated for--this is due in large part to short-sighted planning that doesn't recognize the benefits of cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Places that treat bicyclists as special users, with high levels of accommodation have much lower bicycle fatality rates than the USA (e.g., Netherlands, about 1/13 our fatality rates per mile traveled). One of the reasons is that they give cyclists a head start through red lights, with special zones ahead of motor traffic, and special bicycle-only green lights.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:20:44.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1774" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:31:55.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that the rules for cyclists should be mostly the same, to prevent confusion and keep traffic moving smoothly, but not exactly the same. They are vehicles, yes, but they have somewhat different safety and performance characteristics, that mean that rules specially tailored for bicycles make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one thing, there are plenty of rules that are already different for cyclists as motorists. You don't need a license to ride a bike, nor does it need to be registered (note that for anything I mention, there may be some jurisdictions in which it's not true; I'm discussing the most common cases). Bicycles are allowed to ride on bike paths, and on the sidewalks in some locations and jurisdictions (usually, outside of business districts). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many jurisdictions, bicycles &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; allowed to pass on the right (left in left-side driving countries), and ride between traffic and parked cars. You don't mention what state or country you live in, but in my state, it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mahouse.gov/Laws/GeneralLaws/PartI/TitleXIV/Chapter85/Section11B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;allowed&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;the bicycle operator may keep to the right when passing a motor vehicle which is moving in the travel lane of the way.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, treating stop signs as yields, and red lights as stops, is legal in &lt;a href=&quot;http://itd.idaho.gov/bike_ped/ID_Vehicle_code_for_Bikes_05.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Idaho&lt;/a&gt;, and seems to have no ill effects there. As this is the way that I see the majority of cyclists actually ride, and doesn't appear to significantly affect safety, I advocate trying to get this style of law passed in more places, but while it's been &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1055/which-states-or-countries-have-stop-sign-as-yield-laws-for-bicyclists-idaho-stop&quot;&gt;proposed in a few other locations it's never passed&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, exceptions for bicycles have been codified into law in some places. There is an active debate about whether similar laws should be passed in other locations. Some people advocate for &quot;same road, same rules,&quot; while others advocate for a more nuanced approach that gives bicyclists the right to use the road, while also acknowledging that they have different needs than other road users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:31:55.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1797" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:42:25.733" Score="8" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering adjusting my ride to work a bit - considering a change that will make it slightly longer, and probably a lot hillier.  But from looking at the route on google maps, I can't really tell, even with the terrain layer turned on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know of a tool that will graph the profile of a route for me?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Ideally, I'd be able to just link the tool to my route on google, and not have to redraw it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The routes in question:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/maps/JLBW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Current route&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/maps/8PhC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;proposed route&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastEditorUserId="157" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T02:03:50.833" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T23:35:17.000" Title="Anyone know a way to get a profile of a ride from google?" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1789" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:47:38.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://veloroutes.org/bikemaps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VeloRoutes&lt;/a&gt; mashup with google.maps allows you to set your routes there and will give you elevation profiles and net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a sample for one of your routes - &lt;a href=&quot;http://veloroutes.org/r/60661&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://veloroutes.org/r/60661&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T22:56:04.177" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:56:04.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1789" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:48:37.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikely.com/&quot;&gt;Bikely&lt;/a&gt; is an application built on top of google maps that supports importing GPX files and displaying height profiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:48:37.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1628" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:49:25.240" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest benefit I see is convenience.  You can just hop onto a bike with whatever you're wearing at the time and go.  Not a big deal if you're planning a 15 mile ride, but a real big deal if you're riding around the neighborhood, hopping off to run into a few stores, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible to pedal on the flip side of the pedal and get moving without the cumbersome and slow start up that is required to get into clipless or straps.  In an emergency you can even stomp on the straps and move the bike out of the way.  It's rare, but occasionally you find yourself standing there and just want to get out of the way, in any direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've now switched almost entirely to riding clipless though.  Between that and riding fixed gear, it makes the bike feel so connected to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To compare:&#xA;Straps are easier to get into.&#xA;Clipless are easier to get out of (really!).&#xA;I've never pulled out of my clipless pedals, I have broken a strap (no big deal if you're not in a sprint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point if I'm riding any distance at all, I change shoes.  If I'm just going to the store to pick up groceries, I don't even have straps, just old school pedals.  The middle ground for straps just evaporated for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T23:49:25.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1789" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:45:41.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gmaps Pedometer&lt;/a&gt; is a pretty decent way to get an elevation map of your ride by plotting it on a Google map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:45:41.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1789" CreationDate="2010-10-20T01:49:16.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MapMyRide.com&lt;/a&gt; uses Google Maps in their web application, but I'm not sure if you can import an already-planned route from Google Maps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFenL.png&quot; alt=&quot;MapMyRide screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T01:49:16.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2010-10-20T01:49:43.577" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;curtismchale's answer is spot-on -- I'm only answering to quote from my favourite cycling article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.randonneurs.bc.ca/newsletter/submissions_2009/032_on-climbing_luis-bernhardt.html&quot;&gt;&quot;On the Technique of Climbing&quot;&lt;/a&gt; by Luis Bernhardt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you are sitting in the saddle, you are basically on a Universal Gym. The way you fit the bike prescribes how efficient you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seated climbing is the most efficient way to go: just pick a low enough gear and spin it out.  Standing requires proper technique and can never be as efficient since your muscles have to support your entire body weight.  But standing does change the muscles in play and can be a nice break from that uncomfortable saddle.  It also might be your only option if you don't have low enough gearing to spin up a steep hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T01:49:43.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1774" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:18:36.137" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists are &lt;strong&gt;more vulnerable&lt;/strong&gt; than motorists&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Every time someone choose to bicycle instead of drive, &lt;strong&gt;everyone benefits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We should absolutely give cyclists special traffic laws. We should adjust the laws to make bicycling safer (e.g., car vs. bike accidents automatically the driver's fault) and more attractive (e.g. STOP is a YIELD for a bicycle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While we're at it, let's stop spending tax money on improving driving infrastructure, and direct it to walk/bike/bus infrastructure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, let's lower all the speed limits by 10mph. That makes walking &amp;amp; biking more pleasant, and reduces the time advantage that cars have over other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Marking as community wiki because this is &lt;strong&gt;subjective and argumentative&lt;/strong&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T02:18:36.137" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T02:18:36.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1789" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:35:03.660" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GPS Visualizer&lt;/a&gt; will do the job. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/support/forum/p/maps/thread?fid=2f40cceacf857a700004911ff3df56d6&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Plan your route as normal in Google Maps.&#xA;  Click on &quot;link&quot; above the top right corner of the map.&#xA;  Copy the top link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/profile_input&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/profile_input&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Paste the GM link that you copied into the field titled:  &quot;Or provide the URL of data on the Web:&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T02:35:03.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:04:52.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;100 km, Delaware, US&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The White Clay Bicycle Club in Delaware holds the Double Cross Metric every year. I think this is notable for being a good century for beginners -- southern Delaware is pretty flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whiteclaybicycleclub.org/Events-WCBC/doublecross.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;White Clay Bicycle Club - Double Cross Metric&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://neilfein.com/2007/07/02/delaware-white-clay-metric-century/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;My writeup of the ride in 2007&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:55:44.937" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T18:26:44.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1749" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:50:14.117" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of this is guesswork on my part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Entire bike:&lt;/strong&gt; I would deflate the tires, keep them on rims if possible, and hang the bike up. Putting weight on the tires when they're deflated is probably bad for the tires -- and for the rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rims with tires&lt;/strong&gt;: I would follow &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1749/what-is-the-proper-way-to-store-tires-to-prevent-cracking/1750#1750&quot;&gt;zigdon's answer&lt;/a&gt; and hang up the rims and deflated tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bare tires without rims:&lt;/strong&gt; I'd store the tires on their sides, not stacked too high. Perhaps putting them in something like a pizza box, or between pieces of cardboard, would help avoid the tires crushing each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In general:&lt;/strong&gt; I would also flex the tires every so often, to stop them from getting brittle. Also, ozone is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bad for tires&lt;/a&gt;, so I'd not store them near anything that generates ozone (furnaces or electric motors), and I'd store the tires away from extreme heat or cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T03:50:14.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1802" CreationDate="2010-10-20T04:00:36.383" Score="29" ViewCount="9235" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the arguments for and against bike lanes? Can anyone summarize the best reasons they're good for and bad for cyclists and automobile drivers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Are there some environments particularly suited for bike lanes? Are there some types of locales that would be particularly suited for them, where they wouldn't cause resentment? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T17:03:56.953" Title="Arguments for/against bike lanes?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1800" CreationDate="2010-10-20T04:19:20.330" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory great except for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painted white line on side of road - great except for everybody turning right across them at each junction, cars parked in them, busses pulling in and out of them, grit+broken glass+leafs+litter swept into them, broken drain covers, or are so narrow you can't fit a bike in them. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CimTd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Separated bike lanes - either take you miles out of your way to give you a scenic route, or go alongside a busy road until they come to a major junction or freeway ramp and then just end - starting again at the other side of the lethally dangerous part.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a7M4A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike lanes that are either positioned by people who are complete morons, or are cynically putting in the minimum bike lane they can to claim some sort of government target.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mkxYQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wXAtK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images are from the famous &lt;a href=&quot;http://homepage.ntlworld.com/pete.meg/wcc/facility-of-the-month/book.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;warrington cycle lanes&lt;/a&gt; now available as a book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2010-11-18T00:33:05.167" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T00:33:05.167" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1800" CreationDate="2010-10-20T05:52:44.027" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AGAINST&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my primary issues with bike lanes is that motorists tend to think that you have to stay in that lane.  So when you have to move right because of debris, garbage cans or parked cars in the lane it further annoys ill-informed drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, drivers come to expect you to be out of traffic, riding on the shoulder, and will squeeze by you closer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many bike lanes are placed immediately to the left (traffic-side, may be right depending on the country) of the parking area, so if you remain in the bike lane you are in the &quot;door zone&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike lanes tend to increase confusion and conflict at intersections, either forcing the cars to cross the lanes in an awkward manner, or enticing cyclists to filter to the front of the lane and possibly blocking turning actions by motorists. Bike lanes encourage passing on the right, which can be a very dangerous action for the cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally - by law in most places &lt;strong&gt;every lane is a bike lane&lt;/strong&gt;... there is no possible way for designated bike lanes and routes to be marked to every destination I would like to visit, and by law when I am in the lane &lt;strong&gt;I am traffic, I'm not blocking traffic&lt;/strong&gt;. (&lt;em&gt;sorry, I get a little militant about bike lanes, especially when they are the primary focus of improved cycling infrastructure rather than wider roads with calmer traffic.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FOR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone with some experience teaching workshops for new bike commuters, I find that the existence of convenient bike lanes and multi-use paths makes taking those first trips easier.  Novice commuters feel more comfortable riding on a marked bike lane, even if they don't realize that they may be marginally less safe in a bike lane at the far right edge of the roadway, generally a riskier position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some places, like one particularly popular area in Salt Lake City, where rather than position a lane demarcated with white lines to the side of the travel lane, the DOT painted a wide green lane with bike icons almost in the middle of the right-most travel lane and erected signs that read &quot;Bicycles Allowed Full Use of Lane.&quot;   This is not a bike lane, but a hybrid or shared-lane, and  I love it because it reinforces the fact that bikes are traffic, and roads must be shared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-09-08T05:26:06.693" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T05:26:06.693" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1800" CreationDate="2010-10-20T07:06:32.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that bike lanes are helpful in getting beginners comfortable riding &quot;in traffic&quot;, except that then they also learn that they &quot;can't&quot; ride on roads without them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T07:06:32.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1800" CreationDate="2010-10-20T08:37:41.100" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In London there are some new 'Cycle Superhighways' painted in blue with lots of associated signage (and publicity), they're envisaged as arterial routes from the edges of the city into the centre. Obviously they're only useful if your journey is close to where they are but they have had some quite obvious effects even in the few months of their official existence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone knows about them. On that route cyclists aren't just tolerated, they're expected and this makes everyone safer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every traffic light has an Advanced Stop Line (ASL). This means that at all traffic lights the cyclists are very visible to the other waiting traffic. One frequent criticism is that cycle lanes often seem to melt away at pinch points, which is not the case here. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it makes red light jumpers even more obvious. When a bundle of cyclists are waiting and someone jumps, it underlines to car drivers that we're not all at it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Con: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there are almost too many cyclists. The lanes are often clogged and overflowing into the rest of the road. While the road is the cyclists to use as well, there is still a feeling of &quot;that's your blue bit, the black bit is for cars&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it makes red light jumpers even more obvious. When a bundle of cyclists are waiting and someone jumps, it makes car drivers even more aggreived, &quot;all these facilities and you still jump reds?&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it underlines that bikes are different. I don't want different, I want respect and my fair share. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T08:37:41.100" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2010-10-20T10:23:43.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;240 KM &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.11steden.nl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elfstedentoch te fiets&lt;/a&gt; in Friesland, The Netherlands&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bicycle version of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elfstedentocht.nl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;very famous ice skating race&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Elfstedentocht&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia article in english&lt;/a&gt;) (held anually if the ice is good enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a well known bicycle ride (in the Netherlands anyway) that has been held yearly since 1912. Only 15000 riders can participate, so you have to be quick to register (at least before the end of february for the ride in june of the same year). Riders that have completed the ride at least five times, of which at least one in the last five years get early registration access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never did it as I've never been nearly fit enough to pull it off, but perhaps one day...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T19:54:36.420" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:54:36.420" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T18:26:44.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2010-10-20T11:51:56.780" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of bicycle repair shops I've been in have metal double hooks hanging on a rope or a light chain from the ceiling such as these: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Q635.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One hook goes under your saddle and the other on your handlebars on either side of the steering support. If you attach them a bit farther apart on the ceiling than the distance between your saddle and handlebars it makes for a pretty stable &quot;repair stand&quot;. You can get them for EUR 3.95 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietsparts.nl/fietsonderdelen/30-gereedschap/283-fiets-ophang-systemen/4249-fiets-ophangset-met-ketting&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for example) or you could make something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T11:51:56.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2010-10-20T12:35:09.657" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Between the ability to turn the bike upside down and having a trainer that I can hook it to, I never found the need to buy a repair stand (and my current bike was assembled completely from components, so I had to do &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; to it that one gets to do to a bike!).  I see that a repair stand would save a bit of time, so I would get one if I was doing repair professionally.  However, for the amateur, it seems like overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T12:35:09.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1772" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:02:55.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Effectively what you are doing when you stand on the pedals and rock the bike from side to side is lowering the crank length and reducing the gear ratio.  You are also using a lot of energy to hold the bike stable while you change from side to side &amp;amp; as well as wasting energy through the extra flexing of the frame, cranks &amp;amp; pedals.  The only situations that really warrant getting out of the saddle is to either give your muscles a chance to rest by using a slightly different set or to accelerate very quickly, such as coming out of a corner in a race. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:02:55.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:24:33.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large workbench with a bench vise mounted on it.  I made a jig from a couple pieces of wood to hold the bike upside down, then I clamp the bike either high or low so it doesn't twist in the jig.  This holds it in place, rock solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:24:33.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:37:37.887" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;You also have to consider that a motorcycle has no trouble accelerating to and maintaining traffic speeds.  In short, a motorcycle really doesn't need to look backward with anywhere near the frequency that a cyclist does.  They also have mirrors mounted on their bikes which most cyclists don't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example.  Coming off a red light, anyone on a motorcycle can just go without consideration for anything behind them.  Lane changes require major planning on a bicycle, but are relatively simple on a motorcycle traveling at matching speeds with all the cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:37:37.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1800" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:21:06.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike lanes often have dirty, inferior roadway and angry SUV drivers eager to force you into the bicycle ghetto.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;An extra wide right lane is a much better solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roadway is kept in better repair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roadway is swept clean by normal traffic flow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclists are not bullied by inattentive or bully drivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wide right lanes are cheaper and easier than special bike lanes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Michael Cummings" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T23:15:01.730" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T23:15:01.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1816" CreationDate="2010-10-20T16:47:20.673" Score="23" ViewCount="10715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see enough folks wearing helmets in such a manner that they might as well not be.  What is the proper way to fit &amp;amp; wear a bicycle helmet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T19:17:29.203" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T17:33:59.173" Title="How should a bicycle helmet fit?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1812" CreationDate="2010-10-20T17:14:31.887" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Snug!  It wont work if the helmet is not securely strapped to your head.  Here is a good article/post about wearing helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You want the helmet to be comfortably touching the head all the way around, level and stable enough to resist even violent shakes or hard blows and stay in place. It should be as low on the head as possible to maximize side coverage, and held level on the head with the strap comfortably snug. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/fit.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.bhsi.org/fit.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T17:14:31.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-20T17:14:42.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridemcts.com/How-to-ride/Bikes-on-Buses/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Milwaukee Country Transit System&lt;/a&gt; website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Milwaukee County Transit System buses are now equipped with bike racks which are simple to use. This will make it even easier to leave your car at home for your commute, head out to explore Milwaukee County Parks and bike trails, or enjoy a bike ride on your lunch break. Each rack holds two bikes and use is free with your bus fare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T17:14:42.910" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T17:14:42.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2010-10-20T18:26:04.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;160 km (100 mile), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.levisgranfondo.com/p/route/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Levi's Gran Fondo&lt;/a&gt; in Santa Rosa, California, US&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;100 km, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.levisgranfondo.com/p/route/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Levi's Medio Fondo&lt;/a&gt; in Santa Rosa, California, US&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;51 km, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.levisgranfondo.com/p/route/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Levi's Piccolo Fondo&lt;/a&gt; in Santa Rosa, California, US&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a set of fully-supported (SAG wagon, multiple rest stops) rides in early October starting in Santa Rosa, California and going out to the coast (except for the Piccolo). There's a couple challenging climbs and some technical descents. The &quot;Gran&quot; is based on a training route that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Levi_Leipheimer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Levi Leipheimer&lt;/a&gt; uses. Proceeds go to various good causes, including helping to fund getting the Tour of California to include Santa Rosa. In 2009 there were 3000 total spots, and in 2010 there were 6000 total spots; both years the Gran route filled up very quickly.  There's a festival at the finish line.  A bike set up to be able to handle some rough country roads is recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't ridden it, but I know people that have, and I've volunteered to help out (primarily with valet bicycle parking at the festival).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T19:55:30.663" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:55:30.663" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T18:26:44.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1812" CreationDate="2010-10-20T18:43:32.060" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;This image has kicked around the net for a while - IDK what the original source was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oB4cY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I second the guidance and link provided by @fady.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-08-29T15:04:34.050" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T15:04:34.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1818" CreationDate="2010-10-20T18:46:07.440" Score="19" ViewCount="1222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Portland, Oregon is one of several U.S. cities with a progressive bicycling culture. A couple of innovations the city has implemented are &quot;bike boxes&quot; and &quot;sharrows&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_stop_line&quot;&gt;Bike boxes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; are road markings that designate exactly where cyclists and motorists should place their vehicles when stopped at an intersection with a red light. The main idea is to prevent the notorious &quot;right hook&quot; as a cause of collisions. The jury is still out in terms of effectiveness, but bike boxes are receiving mostly positive reviews so far. (On wikipedia these are called Advanced Stop Lines and around here they're called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treehugger.com/files/2010/01/do-gree-bike-boxes-save-lives.php&quot;&gt;green boxes&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shared_lane_marking&quot;&gt;Sharrows&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; are shared lane road markings on roads/lanes shared by cyclists and motor vehicles. In Portland, they are found on city designated bike routes without bike lanes. The idea being that it's a visual cue to cyclists and motorists that the lane is to be shared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Question: What are other infrastructure modifications a community can make to enhance bicycling safety?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T21:17:24.617" Title="Urban Cycling Safety Innovations" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T19:42:43.127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:01:22.733" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike Loops (sensors for traffic lights)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing we have in the SF bay area are markings on the road where a bike can stand to &lt;em&gt;trigger&lt;/em&gt; a green light.  In intersections where the lights are governed by sensors, bikes can't usually trigger those, and end up having to either run the light, push the pedestrian crossing button, or wait for a car to show up.  With these markings, cyclists can know where a more sensitive sensor is places that is more likely to trigger the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yZqM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastEditorUserId="563" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T06:23:35.400" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T06:23:35.400" CommentCount="7" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T19:42:43.127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:54:03.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;200 km / 100mile (160 km) / 100km / 35mile(56km) &lt;a href=&quot;http://srcc.memberlodge.com/WCC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wine Country Century&lt;/a&gt; in Santa Rosa, California, US&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://srcc.memberlodge.com/WCC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wine Country Century&lt;/a&gt; is put on by the local cycling club, and (depending on specific route), may pass through as many as 7 appellations (officially recognized wine growing regions).  The longer routes include a &quot;bailout route&quot; option to get back to the start.  Generally scheduled for early May.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Santa Rosa is about 50 miles north of San Francisco.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:54:03.520" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T19:54:03.520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1812" CreationDate="2010-10-20T20:22:08.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, buy a helmet of a size that fits your head (you should not be able to put a finger between your head and helmet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then adjust the straps binding just below the ears and then adjust the length of the strap under your chin so that you are able to move your head comfortably without tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is important that your front is not see, even when trying to move the helmet forward and back (Gary's picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- google translated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="651" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T20:22:08.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2010-10-20T23:00:15.900" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bicycle traffic lights&lt;/strong&gt; are used in some cities at intersections with bike lanes or bike paths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the streets, they can be synchronized with turn signals so that cars are prohibited from turning while bikes can ride through an intersection, and vice-versa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qleYC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And at their best, they're placed at cyclist's eye-level (with redundant red, like rail signals, even!) and combined with separate cycle crosswalks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tk6oJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vienna bike signal across the Ring, facing the Staatsoper&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="1683" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T17:00:33.473" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T17:00:33.473" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T23:00:15.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1833" CreationDate="2010-10-21T01:06:54.047" Score="6" ViewCount="5948" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently ride a single-speed bike with a flip-flop hub, both for my daily commute and for pleasure/exercise a couple nights a week. I've decided to pick up my first set of clipless pedals and shoes. I've never used toe-clips of any kind or ridden a fixed-gear so I'm curious if I should consider switching to a fixed gear setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commute runs through the city and hits several intersections where I'm stopped by red lights. I know with a fixed-gear I could learn to track stand at intersections, but I'm unsure whether that's easier than clipping-out/in at red lights. Conversely, the same commute involves a large hill that I can't pedal fast enough to keep up with, and I don't know how difficult it would be to control my speed with a fixed-gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if there is a non-subjective answer to this, but I'm basically wondering if there is a case for or against fixed-gear instead of single speed with clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T08:36:17.807" Title="Fixed-gear vs single-speed for clipless pedals" Tags="&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1846" CreationDate="2010-10-21T01:10:28.533" Score="21" ViewCount="14374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been slowly going through the process of converting my old hardtail mountain bike into a commuting bike. One of the things that I'd like to do is to fit a chain guard so that I can ride the bike while wearing long trousers and not have to worry about chewing up the trouser cuffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A complication is that the bike (like most mountain bikes) is fitted with both front and rear derailleur gears. I'm not keen to replace these with an internally geared hub system as I have been trying to keep the changes relatively modest in their cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there chain guards that you can add to bikes with derailleur gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T20:38:33.313" Title="Is it possible to fit a chain guard to a bike with derailleur gears?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1829" CreationDate="2010-10-21T03:56:21.250" Score="16" ViewCount="10815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently gotten into commuting to work with a road bike.  Once a month or so I will degrease, clean, and lubricate the chain.  I change through all the gears to distribute the lubricant and wipe any excess from the chain when I am done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that for the first 2 or 3 hours of riding after cleaning the chain, my bike is constantly making clicking+creaking noises.  They sound similar to what one would hear if the bike was having trouble changing gears and seem to be coming from the area of the rear derailleur.  I can &quot;feel&quot; the noise in pedals also.  It seems to be most noticeable in certain gears on the rear derailleur (3, 5, and 6) but totally absent in others (such as 4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a couple hours of riding the noise goes away and the bike feels great.  What is going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T08:27:36.310" Title="Why is my chain so noisy after cleaning and lubricating?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-21T04:20:35.643" Score="13" ViewCount="9023" Body="&lt;p&gt;On mountain bikes of a certain age, &quot;Biopace&quot; chainrings are ubiquitous. These chainrings are (purposely) not circular.  It seems that most people today agree that Biopace rings didn't live up to the hype.  They were a fad, and they're no longer popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite this, a new type of non-circular chainrings, &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/&quot;&gt;Rotor cranks&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, are currently in vogue. Professional road riders use them.  What are the key differences between rotor cranks and Biopace?  In other words, how can Biopace be bad and Rotor cranks be good? Or are they both bad or both good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastEditorUserId="288" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T14:21:48.323" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T15:41:39.430" Title="Differences between Biopace and Rotor cranks" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1822" CreationDate="2010-10-21T04:31:07.760" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Track standing at intersections is more about showing off than about being quick off the stop line. By the time you can track stand consistently (btw, you can learn to do this on a freewheel bike, too), you will have mastered clipless pedals and you'll be able to clip and unclip very quickly. Other than that, riding fixed vs. SS is a matter of taste. Do you like to coast down hills? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="655" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T04:31:07.760" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2010-10-21T06:00:32.200" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Likely some coarse particles get in between the chain elements and also between the parts of the derailleur and the star wheels. After you cycle for a while those particles either fall out or get crushed into finer particles and thus the noise goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T06:00:32.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1823" CreationDate="2010-10-21T07:11:00.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general it can be done. My &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unibike.pl/voyagergts.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unibike Voyager&lt;/a&gt; has both a chain guard and a front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see two possible difficulties: You might have trouble finding a chain guard that fits your particular geometry (size of sprockets, model of the derailleur etc.) and you might have even more trouble attaching the chain guard to your frame, as it might need custom attachment points (for example my chain guard is screwed to the bottom of the bottom bracket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="23833" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T20:03:30.980" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T20:03:30.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2010-10-21T08:14:16.417" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best safety improvements I've seen in recent years is the conversion of wide inner-city roads to narrow roads with a separated bicycle path on both sides.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&amp;amp;source=s_q&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;geocode=&amp;amp;q=weena+rotterdam&amp;amp;sll=37.0625,-95.677068&amp;amp;sspn=39.780156,65.390625&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;hq=Weena&amp;amp;hnear=Weena,+Diergaardesingel+50,+3014+AC+Rotterdam,+The+Netherlands&amp;amp;ll=51.920569,4.451944&amp;amp;spn=0.000948,0.001996&amp;amp;t=h&amp;amp;z=19&amp;amp;layer=c&amp;amp;cbll=51.920533,4.451778&amp;amp;panoid=uI4TmIA1Wl7RpLMOdDHfOQ&amp;amp;cbp=12,253.85,,0,5&quot;&gt;Streetview example&lt;/a&gt;. Of course, outside cycling nations you'd need a very bicycle friendly city council to realise stuff like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T08:14:16.417" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-21T08:14:16.417" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2010-10-21T08:25:11.307" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you lubricate the chain? The proper way (in my view) is to drip a drop of lubricant on each chain-link, and then cycle through all the gears. It sounds as if the lubricant is not yet properly distributed when you start cycling.&#xA;How aggressively do you degrease and clean? Removing gunk, sand, dust, etc. Is necessary, but if you clean it really &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; thoroughly you might need to apply extra lubricant (and you could be overcleaning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T08:25:11.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1822" CreationDate="2010-10-21T08:28:13.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden fixed with clipless pedals for years and while &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/990/how-to-do-a-track-stand&quot;&gt;I have been trying to learn how to track stand&lt;/a&gt; mostly I clip out if I reach the red and need to stop. The worst that will happen is that you need to spin your wheel a fraction of a rotation to place your lead foot at the right point when you push off again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're at the front of a queue of cars, you probably don't want to be wobbling and twitching while showing off. With a bit of practice you can clip in and out in barely more time than a normal shoe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to a fixed (and with clipless pedals) is that it promotes a need to predict what's about to happen. I definitely approach junctions more slowly - trying to keep moving as the lights change, to avoid being stationary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T08:28:13.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1822" CreationDate="2010-10-21T08:36:17.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going down a hill on a fixie sounds like insanity to me. Are you sure about that? Controlling your speed will waste a lot of energy. (keeping the speed of your pedals low enough to be able to keep up). I'm with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1822/fixed-gear-vs-single-speed-for-clipless-pedals/1828#1828&quot;&gt;Nick&lt;/a&gt; concerning track standing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T08:36:17.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1827" CreationDate="2010-10-21T10:22:55.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Biopace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Biopace&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; chainrings and &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Rotor's Q-rings&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; are similar products (i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Crankset#Non-round_chainrings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ovoid chainrings&lt;/a&gt;). Q-rings is what the cervelo guys use. I think the benefits of these types of chainrings are still up for discussion. Some riders like them, some don't. I like the reasoning behind them, and I think the benefit is real &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Crankset#cite_note-13&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(this wikipedia citation is really good)&lt;/a&gt; but they probably cost more, and introduce issues with front-shifting. For now I'd say this is mainly a matter of personal taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some ovoid rings have their longer axis parallel to the cranks while others have the longer axis perpendicular to it. The reasoning behind the first option is that you have maximum leverage when you can exert maximum force, the reasoning behind the second option is that you have smallest effective diameter of your chainring at the top and bottom of your stroke, allowing you to quickly pedal through these dead-zones with minimum exertion. Biospace is the first variant, I don't know which the Rotor Q-rings are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Crankset#Rotor_crank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Rotor Crank&lt;/a&gt; varies the angle between the two cranks during the stroke rather than fixing it at 180 degrees to reduce the time the pedals spend in the dead spots at the top and bottom of the stroke. Wikipedia cites weight as a major disadvantage of the Rotor crank. Also, the movement is really different, so it takes some getting used to, and you'd probably want the system on all your bikes, which is expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T15:41:39.430" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T15:41:39.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1896" CreationDate="2010-10-21T11:03:45.553" Score="7" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking forward to the southern summer and was wondering if anyone could recommend a good sandal style cycling shoe (I have SPD pedals)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T23:06:35.497" Title="What is a good sandal type of cycling shoe for summer riding?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-10-15T16:17:52.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2010-10-21T11:25:06.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;La Marmotte&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This summer I rode &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Marmotte&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;La Marmotte&lt;/a&gt; which is a good organised 174 km (108 mi) timed ride through the Alps with more than 5000 meters of climbing. The finish is on the top of the well known Alpe d'Huez. I was really tired at the end but the scenery was really beautiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="656" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T11:25:06.267" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-21T11:25:06.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-21T11:35:14.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For&lt;/strong&gt; on my racing bike : I always wear a helmet by principle on my racing bike and once crashed really hard on top of my head with my racing bike and I was really glad I wore a helmet. The only person in our cycling group not wearing a helmet was so impressed he finally bought himself an helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="656" LastEditorUserId="656" LastEditDate="2010-10-28T09:52:38.277" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T09:52:38.277" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-21T11:35:14.647" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1836" CreationDate="2010-10-21T11:40:24.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a pair of Northwave Shark shoes this year which are SPD compatible and used them in the short British summer.  They have open vents on each side so are kind of sandal like.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weird thing is that the site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northwave.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.northwave.com&lt;/a&gt;, only shows these in the PDF catalogue and not in the Product listing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had been looking for some time to get this style of shoe so grabbed them when I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6464" LastEditorUserId="6464" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T12:47:10.977" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T12:47:10.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1842" CreationDate="2010-10-21T12:39:56.910" Score="14" ViewCount="8287" Body="&lt;p&gt;How is the length of a stem measured? Where does the measurement start and finish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T04:14:34.280" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T04:14:34.280" Title="How is stem length (reach) measured?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1827" CreationDate="2010-10-21T12:45:56.923" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking at the Biopace/Rotor/O-Symmetric relationship as similar due purely to aesthetics, or their similarity due to their &lt;em&gt;lack of similarity&lt;/em&gt; to round chainrings then, yes, they are similar products. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, that said, from the RotoR website &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/support.html&quot;&gt;The Q-Rings are elliptical; the Biopace and O.SYMETRIC chainrings are asymmetrical.&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. And Sheldon Brown points out that Shimano called Biopace &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/biopace.html&quot;&gt;point-symmetric egg curve&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. Which really only gives them the similarity of being different from the norm which in this case, is a round chainring, but if you go a step further, they are quite different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to try and answer the question posed above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first difference between RotoR and Biopace is elliptical vs. asymetrical. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second is the inherent purpose which, as previously stated, is that the Biopace chainrings placed the maximum tooth size at the dead spot while Q-Rings (RotoR) have the minimum tooth size at the dead spot. RotoR claims this is to increase your ability to get through the inefficient spot of your pedal stroke. Biopace is supposed to speed your way through the power portion (less teeth) and use 'stored' energy to power through the dead spot (more teeth) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which leads to the third difference which is the adjustable nature of Q-rings (RotoR). Since my dead spot could be different from your dead spot (and would ideally be analyzed with some sort of spin scan) you can adjust where the minimum tooth size sits in relation to the crank arm. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to simplify it (perhaps too much) RotoR claims that it is more efficient and better for your knees etc. to minimize the tooth size at the dead spot and maximize the tooth size where you generate the most power and are the most efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having installed a set and seen the power file from a MTB powertap I can vouch for the fact that it appears to 'smooth' the application of torque while mountain biking. The thought behind this is that by smoothing out your application of torque you will be able to ascend technical climbs ... better. That is one coaches take on the Q-rings and why he sees benefit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that all said. Have a gander at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/biopace.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Browns take on the issue of Biopace&lt;/a&gt;. Essentially, to try and summarize his thoughts, Biopace is striving to achieve the exact things that RotoR is trying just by going about it in what appears to be the completely opposite way. &#xA;In fact, he even mentions the application of Biopace to mountain biking and how it evens out the application of power to the cranks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO it is all very confusing. RotoR does trot out some scientific studies and I can attest to a difference in torque application on the mountain bike. In my experience, what is universal with RotoR and O-Symmetric is that the shifting is ABSOLUTELY terrible. Add mud to the mix (MTB) and it goes from terrible to non-existant so whatever perceived benefit there is ... I think you might lose with poor shifting performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is helpful from Sheldon's take is that it seems Biopace failed more due to clumsy marketing and poor communication than it did from being a poor design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I don't think any of them are 'GOOD' or 'BAD'. They are different and might work very well in some applications and poorly in others (Ie. RotoR and mud). But the Biopace choice is pretty much a moot point because ... you can't buy them new anyways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T12:45:56.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1840" CreationDate="2010-10-21T12:54:12.077" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though you are talking about what &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_st-z.html#stem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; term &quot;reach&quot;, which is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;normally measured center-to-center along the direction of the extension&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this does not take into account the angle of the stem, which could reduce the length forward that the handlebars extend by a small amount if they are on a large angle up or down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/50Y7R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="106" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T01:09:21.547" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T01:09:21.547" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="781" CreationDate="2010-10-21T12:59:41.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Re Mark Cavendish anecdote, he could be right! I have a very interesting (running) book see: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1605298611&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Runners-World-Body-Exercise-Stronger/dp/1605298611/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1287664073&amp;amp;sr=1-1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a small but interesting section on Flexibility on page 93, which quotes some research. Basically, my reading of it is that any extra range of motion (over and above a normal range) means that extra work is required to keep you stable and therefore being stiffer could be to your advantage. It also says that training tends to reduce flexibility, so why would running stimulate this adaptation if it reduced performance given that all other adaptations, eg heart muscle growth, is known to enhance performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Rob" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T12:59:41.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1836" CreationDate="2010-10-21T13:18:02.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here you go Simon: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northwave.com/eu/shoes_det.php?itemid=464&amp;amp;catid=4&amp;amp;area=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northwave.com/eu/shoes_det.php?itemid=464&amp;amp;catid=4&amp;amp;area=4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They look great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="659" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T13:18:02.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-21T13:32:51.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For&lt;/strong&gt;  Emergency stop where you happen to be on a patch of black ice, you go sideways  -  ditto a patch of spilled oil on rain-soaked pavement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both wipeouts were totally sudden, no chance to land properly.  When my shoulder hit pavement, head snapped over, top/side of helmet went &quot;THUNK!&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just got up &amp;amp; rode away.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Helmets are less ugly than brains spilled onto the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Frank" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T13:32:51.453" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-21T13:32:51.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1823" CreationDate="2010-10-21T14:31:56.773" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;SKS Germany - a company that make great bike products, including the fenders that I put on two of my bikes, make a product called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sks-germany.com/?l=en&amp;amp;a=products&amp;amp;r=chainguards&amp;amp;PHPSESSID=512b23a56e3f89aefa97685256dbc762&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chainboard&lt;/a&gt; - a chain guard designed to accommodate front derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qU7n6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have one, but you can google SKS Chainboard and find several reviews. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T14:31:56.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1860" CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:02:23.807" Score="21" ViewCount="11589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike that I plan to completely overhaul soon. Over the years, and with several bikes, I have overhauled most every component, but have never managed to do this for an entire bike, start to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an optimal sequence for a bike overhaul? Or does it matter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T00:44:22.017" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T16:49:05.063" Title="Sequence for a complete road bike overhaul" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1850" CreationDate="2010-10-21T18:41:52.837" Score="8" ViewCount="2013" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend recommended that I take an oily cloth (with regular motor oil or such) and wipe down the entire surface of my mountain bike frame. He claims that it's easier to hose off after, and it actually keeps cleaner. It seems counter-intuitive to me, as I think the dirt would just stick to the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think? Do you do this, and does it work for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should add that this is for a wet, muddy climate; the argument being that oil repels water...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="640" LastEditorUserId="640" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T22:02:59.547" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T14:54:50.943" Title="Oiling bike frame to keep it cleaner?" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1849" CreationDate="2010-10-21T19:53:08.187" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd think that oil would repel water (make washing harder) and attract dirt. Maybe since we're in such a wet climate (Andrew and I live near each other) it's decent advice to keep the rain/wet trails/dirt of your bike but I still think that your bike would gather dirt even in the West Coast rain. Especially in areas that are hard to get at like around the seat stays and seat tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We oil our chains and they get filthy, even on the road. I'm not sure why it would be any different with the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see any scenario where that is good advice. I agree with the comment that waxing would be a better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T20:52:54.700" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T20:52:54.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2010-10-21T20:49:13.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;200km &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conquercancer.ca/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ride to Conquer Cancer&lt;/a&gt; (Vancouver, Calgary, Toronto, Montreal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a fundraising ride and is fully supported. A two day ride (from whichever city you start at) for over 200km. I've ridden the Calgary ride twice, and it's been a great challenge, but also relatively easy because of all of the supports provided&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T22:16:10.863" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T22:16:10.863" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-21T20:49:13.620" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1848" CreationDate="2010-10-21T20:56:02.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually start by stripping a frame down. I'll leave the cables on if I'm not going that far but at least take the headset apart and take out the BB. Once I get it that far I'll finish off the frame then move on to the wheels. Pull out the bearings and check the balls, get new ones if needed and re-pack the hubs. I also clean the cassette at this point since it's mostly apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had pedals that required a rebuild but I guess I'd do it after I put the cranks back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then put it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T20:56:02.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1849" CreationDate="2010-10-21T22:18:46.060" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pam cooking spray.&#xA;Spray the frame and the mud falls away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure the same can be said of waxes etc... anything that gives your bike a nice shiny coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, people have been using Pam for years.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T22:18:46.060" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1849" CreationDate="2010-10-22T00:18:06.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you've been given bad advice. I don't think oil will do any harm to the bike, but I don't think it will do much good either. The problem I see here is &quot;hosing it off afterwards&quot;: &lt;strong&gt;Using high-pressure water on a bike, particularly the drivetrain, is a bad move.&lt;/strong&gt; It'll throw the deraileurs out of adjustment, and the water will force its way into any cracks or ships in the paint, possibly into the cable housings, and you'll end up with water inside the frame and possibly the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2758#2758&quot;&gt;bearings&lt;/a&gt;. (This is a particular problem with steel frames, where rust can accumulate inside and you may not know it for years.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bucket of soapy water and a sponge or a cloth will do the job just fine. Some people use citrus degreaser spray to clean the frame. (My shop uses &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4025/bike-polish-for-carbon-frames/4027#4027&quot;&gt;lemon pledge&lt;/a&gt; to keep all their bikes clean.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T18:14:01.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1849" CreationDate="2010-10-22T00:53:55.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad idea.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Curtis said, dirt will stick to it like crazy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only dirt that won't come off with a hose is dirt that has been on there for days/weeks and has baked itself on.  So just clean your ride regularly and it shouldn't be a problem.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paint finish on bikes is so smooth that dirt shouldn't really be able to 'grab' onto it anyway.  Maybe if you are riding an old bike covered in rust it might be an idea but otherwise I'd just leave it as is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastEditorUserId="568" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T23:08:22.003" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T23:08:22.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2010-10-22T01:03:41.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When riding in traffic/city areas, your ears are almost as important as your eyes for keeping safe.  And wearing a full face motorbike style helmet would severely limit your hearing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add that to the excellent points Brian and Meagar make above about full face helmets being hot and heavy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T01:03:41.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1902" CreationDate="2010-10-22T02:06:08.560" Score="4" ViewCount="5849" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the range on granny gears - the innermost, smallest front chainring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T05:48:53.443" LastActivityDate="2020-12-27T17:40:23.653" Title="What's the shortest / easiest &quot;granny gear&quot; available?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1858" CreationDate="2010-10-22T02:43:00.647" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gearing is commonly described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1863#1863&quot;&gt;Gear Inches&lt;/a&gt; and to clarify, having your chain in the smallest front ring and the biggest rear cog results in the &lt;em&gt;smallest gear&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chainrings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smallest chainring I've seen on a 5-arm crankset is a 20T, although 24T is a lot more common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;8-Speed cassettes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano had a line called &quot;Megarange&quot; that was 11-34T.  I believe it's no longer manufactured but you can find them online sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRAM has a cassette in the PG-850 line that is 11-32T that I believe is still available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;9-Speed cassettes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano has a number of models that are 11-34T and one model that is 12-36T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10-Speed Cassettes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the biggest you can get is 12-27T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IMPORTANT NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: Not all front or especially rear derailleurs will be compatible with these large range rings and cassettes. Check with the manufacturer - most have spec and compatibility docs online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity I used a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gear calculator&lt;/a&gt; to figure out what the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1863#1863&quot;&gt;gear inches&lt;/a&gt; would be if you actually configured a bike and could ride 20x36 on 700c wheels...an incredibly small 14.7 inches. That means every pedal revolution you travel about 46 inches, just over half the circumference of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T03:55:14.623" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1848" CreationDate="2010-10-22T03:07:16.557" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two &lt;strong&gt;overhaul checklist&lt;/strong&gt; links that are great. One of the checklists I modified for personal use and have included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is from United Bicycle Institute (&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20081201225622/http://www.bikeschool.com/PDF_Files/&amp;#39;07%20Pro%20Overhaul%20Check%20List.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;checklist PDF link&lt;/a&gt;) - UBI is one of the premier US bike mechanics schools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one below I modified from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20140814054738/http://www.aconvenientcycle.com/2008/09/overhauled-tune-up-checklist.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Convenient Cycle blog&lt;/a&gt; (the blog is now dead...) and is what I use in my personal shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Wheel Systems:&#xA;[ ] Front Hub bearings greased.&#xA;[ ] Front Hub bearings adjusted to not be tight or loose.&#xA;[ ] Rear Hub bearings greased.&#xA;[ ] Rear Hub bearings adjusted to not be tight or loose.&#xA;[ ] All hubs locknuts secured.&#xA;[ ] Hubs inspected for bent axles and external evidence of internal problems.&#xA;[ ] Rims trued laterally to .5mm tolerance or better.&#xA;[ ] Rims inspected for damaged or other work needed.&#xA;[ ] Tires checked for proper wear and damage, proper mounting, and inflation.&#xA;[ ] Wheels mounted in proper alignment and secure.&#xA;&#xA;Drive Train System:&#xA;[ ] Bottom Bracket greased&#xA;[ ] Bottom Bracket fixed cup secured.&#xA;[ ] Bottom Bracket fixed cup secured.&#xA;[ ] Bottom Bracket adjusted to not be tight or loose.&#xA;[ ] Bottom Bracket inspected for external evidence of internal problems.&#xA;[ ] Crank arms securely mounted.&#xA;[ ] Chainrings bolts secured.&#xA;[ ] Wobbling chainrings aligned.&#xA;[ ] Pedals lubricated&#xA;[ ] Pedals securely mounted.&#xA;[ ] Chain cleaned&#xA;[ ] Chain lubed and whipped down&#xA;[ ] Chain inspected for wear&#xA;[ ] Freewheel cleaned and rinsed&#xA;[ ] Freewheel inspected for wear&#xA;[ ] Freewheel lubricated.&#xA;&#xA;Brake System:&#xA;[ ] Cables lubricated and replaced if worn.&#xA;[ ] Front Braking surface cleaned and checked for ware.&#xA;[ ] Rear Braking surface cleaned and checked for ware.&#xA;[ ] Brake calipers checked for mounting security.&#xA;[ ] Caliper arms and pivot/mounting bolts checked for damage.&#xA;[ ] Adjustable brake pivots adjusted for no play or binding.&#xA;[ ] Pivot nut/bolts checked for secure.&#xA;[ ] Brake caliper lubricated at pivots, springs, and cable adjuster barrels.&#xA;[ ] Brake barrels adjusters reseted.&#xA;[ ] Brake pads checked for wear and replaced if more than 50% worn.&#xA;[ ] Brake pad height set so as not to rub tire or hit partially below rim.&#xA;[ ] Pads set tangent [parallel] to rim.&#xA;[ ] New pads set with .5mm to 1.5mm toe to reduce squeal.&#xA;[ ] Pads clearance set to 1mm -2mm per side [except MTB type].&#xA;[ ] MTB pad clearance set so that when the pads contact the rim the lever clears the handlebar by a minimum of 1 inch.&#xA;[ ] Brake levers set to proper alignment and secure.&#xA;[ ] Brake level pivots, cable anchor pivots, and cable adjusters lubricated.&#xA;[ ] Cable removed and inspected for rust, frays, and kinks in the inner wire and housing.&#xA;[ ] Housings sized to proper length and ends finished with filing and end caps where fit.&#xA;[ ] Cables lubricated wherever they pass through housings.&#xA;[ ] Cable system stress tested by pulling brake lever fully to handlebar a minimum of ten times.&#xA;[ ] Cable end finished with cap or soldering.&#xA;[ ] Rims cleaned of lubricants and road grime.&#xA;&#xA;Shift Systems:&#xA;[ ] Cables lubed and replaced if necessary&#xA;[ ] Rear derailleur removed and hanger checked for proper alignment.&#xA;[ ] Rear derailleur pivots, cable adjusters, and jockey wheels lubricated.&#xA;[ ] Rear derailleur inspected for damage and worn jockey wheels.&#xA;[ ] Rear derailleur mounted securely.&#xA;[ ] Front derailleur checked for proper mounting height and rotation.&#xA;[ ] Front derailleur checked for proper secure mounting.&#xA;[ ] Front derailleur pivots lubricated.&#xA;[ ] Derailleur cables removed and inspected for rust, frays, and kinks in the inner wires and housings.&#xA;[ ] Housings sized to proper length and ends finished with filing and end caps wherever they improve fit.&#xA;[ ] Cables lubricated wherever they pass through housings when appropriate.&#xA;[ ] Cables pre-stressed.&#xA;[ ] Chain length checked.&#xA;[ ] Rear derailleur limit screws set to allow shift to largest and smallest sprockets.&#xA;[ ] Rear derailleur checked for over shift at all gear combinations.&#xA;[ ] Front derailleur limit screws set for minimum clearance of the derailleur cage to the chain in high and low gear.&#xA;[ ] Front derailleur checked for over shift at all gear combinations.&#xA;&#xA;Steering System:&#xA;[ ] Headset lubricated.&#xA;[ ] Headset adjusted to not be tight or loose.&#xA;[ ] Headset locknut secured.&#xA;[ ] Headset inspected for external evidence of damage, wear, or loose cups.&#xA;[ ] Fork inspected for damage.&#xA;[ ] Stem inspected for proper depth insertion, alignment, and secure.&#xA;[ ] Handlebars inspected for damage, proper alignment, and secure.&#xA;&#xA;Miscellaneous:&#xA;[ ] Frame checked for damage.&#xA;[ ] Seat post checked for allowable minimum depth of insertion.&#xA;[ ] Seat post secure mounting checked.&#xA;[ ] Seat checked for proper alignment and secure mounting.&#xA;[ ] Accessories checked for mounting security and interference with moving parts or safety hazards.&#xA;&#xA;Test Ride:&#xA;[ ] Brakes checked for stopping power and squeal.&#xA;[ ] Bicycle checked for tracking problems.&#xA;[ ] Derailleurs checked for performance and over shift.&#xA;[ ] Chain and freewheel cogs checked for skipping under load.&#xA;[ ] Bicycle checked for unusual noises.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2018-07-03T16:49:05.063" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T16:49:05.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-10-22T03:23:18.310" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Rack, aka Luggage Carrier&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rack is a frame attached to a bicycle to provide space for a pannier or other type of pack to be attached. Not all frames and forks are built with rack mounts. Racks can be mounted at the rear of a bicycle, for example on the touring bike below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2503535179/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDmku.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or front racks mount to the fork, as shown in a photo from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cyclingabout.com/all-about-front-racks-bicycle-touring/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cyclingabout.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0S2D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0S2D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Reference:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ra-e.html#rack&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Glossary: Rack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T21:35:23.123" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T03:23:18.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-10-22T03:51:44.837" Score="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Gear Inches&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the several ways to describe gearing; how hard/easy the bike is to pedal.  The actual figure is the equivalent diameter of the wheel if you were on a direct pedal cycle like a unicycle or an old fashioned high-wheeler. It does allow for different size wheels as well as the gears, but it ignores the effect of different crank lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easier to pedal (granny-gears) have low gear inches (smaller equivalent wheel).  Harder to pedal gears have higher gear inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic formula is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;GI = (CrT/CogT)*D&#xA;WHERE&#xA;GI     = Gear Inches&#xA;CrT    = Chain Ring Teeth&#xA;CogT   = Cog Teeth&#xA;D      = Wheel Diameter&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a 700c tire is going to have a diameter of roughly 26.3&amp;quot; (depends on the width of the tire).  If you have shifted to your smallest front ring of 24 teeth, and your biggest rear cog of 27 teeth then your gear inches are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;GI = (24/27)*26.3 = 23.4&amp;quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if you want to take the math a little further - and of course I do since I am a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1549/i-wish-to-get-fit-therefore-should-i-have-a-heavy-bike/1558#1558&quot;&gt;math nut&lt;/a&gt; - you can find how far you travel each pedal stroke by remembering that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Circumference = pi*Diameter&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Circumference = 3.14*23.4&amp;quot; = 73.5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; you can search for Bicycle Gear Calculator and find several pages online that will do the math for you.  There will be a lot of variation and calculators use different rounding and make different assumptions about wheel width. Pre-prepared tables are available, calculated for ETRTO 23-622 (700c x 23mm) tyres or in the case of traditional track racers' tables, a &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; wheel with an assumed 27&amp;quot; overall diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T14:36:50.387" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T03:51:44.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1826" CreationDate="2010-10-22T08:27:36.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cleaning the chain and derailleur, I use an old tooth brush. After lubrication, silence is king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T08:27:36.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1866" CreationDate="2010-10-22T16:19:10.317" Score="6" ViewCount="2559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with a single chainring up front and an &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1728#1728&quot;&gt;internal hub&lt;/a&gt; and a coaster brake in the rear. (For those unfamiliar with this setup, it's essentially like having a single-speed bike in that the chain is exactly as long as need be, and tension on the chain is adjusted by moving the rear wheel in the rear dropouts before tightening it.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preferred procedure for cleaning the drivetrain is to completely remove the chain. The obvious way to do this would be to loosen the rear wheel in the rear fork and take the chain off. (Remember, no rear deraileur and no chain tensioner.) However, rear wheel placement with an internal hub can be tricky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to install a chain with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1726/8&quot;&gt;master link&lt;/a&gt;,  would I be able to remove the chain without loosening the rear wheel, or would the tension on the chain make this operation difficult? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T02:51:37.600" Title="Is it possible to put a chain on without removing the rear wheel?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1865" CreationDate="2010-10-22T16:46:42.933" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the style of master link and how much chain tension is in your setup.  An SRAM power link needs about 1-2mm of chain slack to unhook the link.  If you can find this amount of slack, it should work with most types of master link.  If your chain doesn't have 2mm of play, but isn't &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; tight, a master link that snaps off the side (like the first one pictured in the terminology index) should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tighter your chain, the harder this is going to be to snap back together.  Depends if you would prefer fiddling with a master link on a tight chain versus the re-aligning the rear hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T16:46:42.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1865" CreationDate="2010-10-22T17:46:02.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with the answer above but one note on other ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also been able to remove a chain with a standard chain breaker on BMX bikes, which essentially duplicate the setup you speak of. It's harder to put them back on than a bike with a rear derailleur (since you can get chain slack easy by compressing the bottom pulley) but entirely possible. Just takes a bit of practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T17:46:02.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1865" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:06:54.200" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why you wouldn't just take the wheel off? The only case I've heard of people doing this is when they want to slam their rear wheel as far forward as possible. So far that the only way they can get the rear wheel off is to break the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;oh....re-read your question...didn't see that you're taking the chain completely off the frame. As long as you get some slack by loosening the rear wheel it should be no problem to pop the chain off/on with the wheel still on there. However, it'll probably be easier (more slack) if you take the wheel off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="66" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T20:17:33.643" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T20:17:33.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1870" CreationDate="2010-10-22T21:02:42.550" Score="8" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just cleaned my gears, derailleurs, and chain. Lubricated the chain with Teflon dry lube. When will I need to re-lubricate again? Will I hear the chain make sounds? Do I do a visual inspection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T21:34:54.300" Title="What is a sign that my chain needs to be lubricated again?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1869" CreationDate="2010-10-22T21:34:54.300" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you hear your chain squeaking you definitely need to re-lubricate it.  It's also a good idea to re-lubricate after riding in wet weather since the combination of road grit and water tends to strip away the oil/wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more detailed recommendations, see this question:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/132/how-often-should-i-lube-my-chain&quot;&gt;&quot;How often should I lube my chain?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T21:34:54.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2010-10-22T23:18:54.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;San Jose Bike Party&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you're in San Jose, CA on the third Friday of the month, check out San Jose Bike Party.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjbikeparty.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sjbikeparty.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done it several times and it is a blast.  Usually under 50km.&#xA;You mentioned wine regions of the Pacific NW.  San Jose is about 90 miles south of Napa/Sonoma.&#xA;There are also numerous wineries right around San Jose if you are interested in that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjectives.  Beautiful city to ride through.  Awesome group of people to ride with.  Wonderful themes.  Not physically challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Rider 44" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T23:18:54.030" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T23:18:54.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1877" CreationDate="2010-10-23T12:33:46.033" Score="6" ViewCount="2508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my frame to a bike shop to have the threads chased on the drive side.  When I got home, I realized that they didn't install the plastic sleeve (because I didn't give it to them).  They didn't say anything about it, so is that just to keep out dust/grime?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what's the official word for that plastic sleeve?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/npVJ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2021-02-21T05:01:21.870" Title="Is the plastic sleeve optional for a GXP bottom bracket install?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1865" CreationDate="2010-10-23T15:36:35.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A full chain guard may be a better solution to the problem.  As there no movement in the chain when changing gears, a chain guard can fit tightly and completely cover the chain.&#xA;Then assuming you are not riding in deep water the need to clean the chain will be greatly reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have gone well over a year with daily use (on roads) on a bike with a full chain guard without having to clean the chain.  The chain only need oiling every few months as it is no protected by the chain guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T15:36:35.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1876" CreationDate="2010-10-23T15:41:24.700" Score="12" ViewCount="1417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed a rear luggage rack and washed my bike, and now I get a buzzing rattle when I ride over bumps in the road, independent of whether I happen to be pedaling at the time. It sounds like it's coming from somewhere below me as I'm riding, which probably indicates somewhere between the bottom bracket and the rear hub, or as high as the saddle. With my bike up on a repair stand I tapped the various components of the rack and tightened the screws but I didn't find anything obviously loose or that rattled as I tapped it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I narrow down the source of the rattle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="460" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-10-04T16:38:21.650" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T17:26:16.730" Title="Finding a rattle in my bike" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1875" CreationDate="2010-10-23T18:10:16.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you don't hear the noise when the bike is up on the stand, the problem is probably linked to the load of your weight on the bike (trying to formulate this in a way that doesn't sound like I'm saying you're a problem or you're overweight but it's impossible! haha). Sit on the bike, swing on the saddle to simulate the effect of a bump and have someone check if there's anything swinging/bending and touching a part of your wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really desperate and have some time on your hands, remove the luggage rack and go see if you hear that noise. Then re-install it carefully. Actually you might save some time doing this right off the bat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-10-23T18:15:18.610" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T18:15:18.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1873" CreationDate="2010-10-24T03:36:37.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about the things that look like thin, wide plastic washers that go on the outer part of both sides of the bottom bracket, they are called &lt;strong&gt;bearing seals&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you are saying that the bearing seals were not installed, then I would absolutely remove the cranks and install them.  They are designed to keep most of the road gunk out of your bottom bracket, helping it to last significantly longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the appropriate crank puller then you can do it yourself.  Remove the cranks, put a light coat of grease on the inner side of the seals and then press them firmly into the bottom bracket.  They should seat firmly into an outer groove on the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about the clear plastic cylinder in the pic then I don't know what it is officially called, but I think you can do with out it. Not having it may mean that you need to check and tighten your bottom bracket more frequently, but I don't believe it's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T03:36:37.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1873" CreationDate="2010-10-24T04:14:30.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a quick look at the Truvativ warranty information and the warranty is void if the BB is not installed properly. Since it's not currently installed properly if anything happens to it then you've got no warranty technically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T04:14:30.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1900" CreationDate="2010-10-24T17:48:24.180" Score="12" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have somewhat oddly shaped feet; They're very wide and my big toe on either foot points slightly inwards. Shoes with pointed toes generally cause me a lot of pain, so finding a road shoe has been somewhat difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, I buy shoes that are slightly too big, and I'm wondering how this will affect cycling shoes. I'm looking at a leather pair that has an extra inch of room in the toe, and lacing them up very tightly seems to do the trick for now, but I'm worried they'll stretch with time and become too big to hug my foot tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody had similar problems finding cycling shoes? Any recommendations for a wide-toed shoe, or some brand specifically known for conforming to your foot over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T11:24:23.180" Title="Shoes for oddly shaped feet" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2010-10-24T21:27:41.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442621328&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302694071&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Feedback stand from MEC&lt;/a&gt;. VERY sturdy and adjustable. Folds up so I can hang it from a hook on my garage wall, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T21:27:41.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1885" CreationDate="2010-10-25T10:40:20.273" Score="9" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;With new battery technologies a new kind of &quot;bicycle&quot; has emerged - so-called e-bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It usually has an electric motor on one of its wheels. The motor is powered by a rather huge (size of a small bag) battery. Pedals, star wheels and the chain are still in place, so the user can&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use it as a normal bicycle or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use pedals to assist the vehicle or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;just rely on the motor and use it as a scooter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speeds like 20 kmph witout using pedals are typically promised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't get is in which scenario and how I use such vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I use is as a scooter with ability to be driven by pedals once it runs out of the battery or do I use it as a bicycle with the motor assisting me and letting go faster without too much of activity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T14:58:07.453" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T13:48:07.500" Title="Is an e-bike more of a bicycle or more of a scooter?" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1882" CreationDate="2010-10-25T11:38:21.360" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK an electric bike is more of a bike, due to the regulations. An electric bike must have a low top speed (15 mph) when powered by the motor, and is limited in its power output. In my experience on a cycle path you can’t tell the difference between a person on an electric bike and a normal bike until you look closely. The laws for electric bikes in the UK are the same as for a normal bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An electric bike is good when the rider is not fit enough to get up some hills, but wishes to use a bike.  They are also relatively cheap and get be parked in normal bike stands etc.  It is possible to lift an electric bike up a few steps etc .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK these days a scooter is just a “friendly” motorbike that is designed for use of “normal” people round town. They are less powerful then a normal motorbike and are not designed for people that wish to show off their speed. A scooter often has a top speed of about 30mph, is fits in with town trophic well. An electric scooter is a scooter with an electric motor rather than a normal engine, they are too heavy to lift up stairs etc., have their own built in stands, and the rider needs a licence to use one in the UK. (Like motorbikes, they are not allowed on cycle lanes and paths)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A mobility scooter used by disabled people with 3 or 4 wheels is very different that an electric bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-12T19:34:25.533" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T19:34:25.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1882" CreationDate="2010-10-25T12:09:19.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The e-bike I've got is definitely more of a bicycle; it has a motor, but the motor only goes when you pedal.  The purpose is to give you more of a boost than you'd get from foot power alone, especially when going up hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you do get exercise.  The pedaling gets your heart pumping.  What you don't get is those exhausting hills that leave you drained at the top. The main idea is to make it easier to do things like commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One nice thing is that in theory, and unlike with a scooter, if your battery drains the whole way, you can still pedal.  (In practice, though, between the batteries and the motor, the e-bike is pretty heavy, and not that pleasant to pedal without the battery power.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="577" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T12:09:19.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1882" CreationDate="2010-10-25T15:22:55.470" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different electric bikes with different experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some are heavy and powerful, and move with a push of a button. Their pedals are more about legal status than about human power. I'd call them &quot;scooters&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some are designed to supply power only when the pedals are turning. In that case you have to do a little work for the electric motor to kick in. These are usually called &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pedelec&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pedelec&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (from &quot;pedal electric cycle&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some use sensors in the drivetrain to decide when to apply the power. Those often have a switch so you can get them to drive the motor without pedaling, giving them a &quot;scooter mode&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some (like the StokeMonkey) apply the power directly to the drivetrain, so you always have to pedal to get them to work. If you're looking for exercise this is a good idea - no temptation to just cruise under power alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="1093" LastEditDate="2017-09-07T13:48:07.500" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T13:48:07.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1895" CreationDate="2010-10-25T19:47:13.833" Score="20" ViewCount="92803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious if anyone has put larger tires (mountainish) on their road bike.  I am thinking about doing this to do some riding on gravel roads/touring/commuting from rural areas.  I have an older steel Norco.  How rough can I ride this with bigger tires without damaging the bike?  (Purely just for curiosity.  I am not planning on doing any drops etc but if I drop off a curb now and then does that matter?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T17:23:11.850" Title="Larger tires on a road bike" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1879" CreationDate="2010-10-25T19:56:09.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure that cycling shoes that are an inch too long would work, the reason being is that your foot would end up pressing down with your toes instead of the ball of your foot, most shoes have some room for adjustment but its measured in millimeters not inches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick google found this site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.d2shoe.com/2010/customdefined.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.d2shoe.com/2010/customdefined.html&lt;/a&gt; they may be able to accomodate your need, although I dont know how much they will cost!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="519" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T19:56:09.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1886" CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:31:49.460" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it depends a lot on the specific model of bike, and likely even on the exact frame size.  You can probably eyeball it to get a good idea.  Remember that larger tires are both wider and stick out more from the wheel.  On a road bike, odds are high that you can put a slightly larger (say, go from 25mm to 30mm) tire but not a hugely larger tire.  If you want to make a big jump you probably also want to get wheels with a wider rim. Note that for off-road tires, the knobs aren't usually counted in the mm size but definitely do affect whether or not the tires fit on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Look for:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front and rear: &lt;strong&gt;Brake clearance&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; can a larger tire fit in the brakes? If this is the only issue, you can get different brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear: &lt;strong&gt;Stay width&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; will a wider tire rub on any of the stays (rear)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear: &lt;strong&gt;Stay bridge clearance*&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; will a larger tire hit the bridge between seat stays or chain stays?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear: &lt;strong&gt;Seat tube clearance&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; many bikes have a geometry where too large of a wheel/tire will hit the seat tube above the cranks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front: &lt;strong&gt;Fork clearance&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; how much room is there under the fork crown? (height and width)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front: &lt;strong&gt;Down tube clearance&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; how much extra room before the front tire hits the downtube?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T20:31:49.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1890" CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:55:31.210" Score="5" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering putting together a cyclocross type bike together for fun and variety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is a typical road frame suitable for this? And, what do I need to consider in terms of sizing?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On sizing, it seems that I may need a smaller frame than a frame sized for road biking. I'm making the assumption that a somewhat smaller frame would be more anatomically &quot;friendly&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T21:35:35.583" Title="Cyclocross bike frame considerations" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1889" CreationDate="2010-10-25T21:35:35.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A typical road frame could have these issues for cyclocross (CX):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire clearance -- cyclocross tires are a bit bigger than typical road tires (especially with the small knobs typical on CX tires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake style -- you'll want some kind of brakes that aren't clogged up by mud. Road bikes often have caliper brakes that hug the wheel fairly closely, while cyclocross bikes usually have cantilever (or sometimes V-brakes).  Disc brakes are recently allowed in CX and seem popular on the higher-end bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frame style -- a lot of newer road frames have a compact geometry where the top tube slopes down to the seat cluster.  Cyclocross bikes generally have a straight top tube so that it's easier to pick up the bike and carry it with your shoulder under the front of the seat cluster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;handlebar height -- not as important, but cyclocross bikes generally have slightly higher handlebars since aerodynamics aren't very important in cyclocross&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gearing -- typically run a little lower.  singlespeed is popular (but probably puts you in a different class than geared racers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some even more minor things, like some CX bikes have a slightly higher bottom bracket than road bikes to make it easier to get over rough terrain and cables are probably routed away from the muddy side of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't go with the smaller frame, as that'll likely be less comfortable, effectively lower handlebars, and probably less room for your shoulder if you need to carry the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't already have a bike you'd be better off getting a cyclocross bike with two sets of tires (one knobby and one smooth) and a second set of gears and converting it to a road bike part-time, instead of getting a road bike and using it for CX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I haven't raced cyclocross, but have watched a few races, including one a couple days ago and am starting to consider trying it out)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T21:35:35.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1933" CreationDate="2010-10-25T21:40:44.197" Score="18" ViewCount="4709" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: A year or so ago, I noticed that a pair of bib shorts had a spot of deterioration on one of the thigh panels. Basically it was a round spot where the outer weave had apparently disintegrated. I thought about it and decided that a drop of chain lube must have damaged the fabric. Meanwhile, the shorts were washed in the same way that I've been doing this for years. The thing is...  I continue to get these spots of deteriorating fabric. It's only on the front leg (thigh) panels and nowhere else.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the location and pattern of the fabric damage, the only thing that seems logical is sunscreen dripping from my face to the shorts. &lt;em&gt;The problem looks like drops that expand and grow from the original drop.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what damages lycra? Or cycling clothing in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have quite a bit of cycling and other sports gear made of similar fabrics which have not had this problem. This is really a puzzle. The gear is expensive and I'd just as soon that this not happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T04:58:57.463" LastActivityDate="2021-02-11T23:48:44.360" Title="Deteriorating lycra" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1886" CreationDate="2010-10-25T21:49:20.220" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bike has 700C wheels, you could convert to 650B. The wheel radius is only 25mm less, so most things work the same, but you have that much more room for tires and fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably need to replace your brakes with long-reach brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-09-23T20:27:18.077" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T20:27:18.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1879" CreationDate="2010-10-25T22:20:03.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/07820&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bontrager street&lt;/a&gt; shoes. They fit me OK, and I have pretty wide feet, and they also come with customizable insoles from esoles. The standard insoles seem to be fine for my feet, but if you have more specialized needs you could get a fitted set (I'd imagine that might cost a lot though). They offer a decent compromise between speed and comfort for me. Also I can walk around in them which is a bit practical advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd give these a look (if you can find any, I don't think they're very widely sold)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T22:20:03.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-25T22:26:03.013" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: the benefits are insufficient to justify the cost (for casual/commuting)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(note: I'm completely ignoring the cost of the helmet itself, as that's a very minor factor compared to less-direct opportunity costs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Benefit / Opportunity cost&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of wearing a helmet is to partially mitigate against the risk of death or traumatic brain injury.  The other benefits (visibility, attachment points, placation) are incidental. The costs are primarily messy hair, minor discomfort and inconvenience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Odds&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell looking at the data, the odds per year of a crash that leads to death or traumatic brain injury that could be prevented by a helmet are roughly one in a million.  I'm assuming going less than 15mph (24 km/h) riding safely, etc. (factoring out minors under 18, riding drunk, people going the wrong way with no lights, etc.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting any kind of truly solid numbers is difficult. It's not possible to conduct a true scientific/empirical study, so the science that's out there is either purely based on studies of dummies or can't properly correct for self-selection bias (the strong possibility is that cyclists that ride safely are more likely to be wearing a helmet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iihs.org/research/fatality_facts_2008/bicycles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;summary of US DOT statistics put together by the IIHS&lt;/a&gt; shows 714 cyclist traffic deaths for 2008.  26% of them were drunk at the time, 36% were after 9pm and before 6am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while those numbers only include people that actually ride cycles (the population of cyclists is smaller than the total population), it also includes people that ride the wrong way, weaving across traffic, without stopping at lights/signs, drunk, with no lights, after dark.  And it includes people going quite fast (where a helmet's more likely to help in case of a fall).  I'm trying to make guesses on the odds for a typical transportation/commuter cyclist who is unlikely to get over 15mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm figuring the odds of a commuter cyclist riding in a generally safe manner being killed cycling are actually lower (less likely) than being hit by lightning (1:500,000).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;I can see two ways to do the math on this:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Method #1: straight time value&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the 525,960 average minutes in a year, I spend roughly 1400 making my hair look &quot;good&quot; (a few minutes most mornings washing and styling my hair, plus time for a haircut every 5 or 6 weeks).  So apparently I value having my hair not look messy to the tune about about 0.266% of my life.  Let's factor in comfort a bit and round that up to 0.3% (one third of 1%, or about 3 thousandths).  So the annualized benefit is roughly 1/1,000,000 of my life and the cost is 1/333 of my life, so the cost is about 3,000 times the benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Method #2: monetary value&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fond of living and consider severe brain damage almost as bad as death, so I'm going to assign a value to my life of $10,000,000 (well above my expected remaining lifetime earnings).  The odds seem to be about 1/1,000,000, so the benefit is $10 per year.  I spend  more than $10/year on my hair (shampoo, hair gel, haircuts, etc), clothes that make me comfortable, etc ($500 seems about right).  I also place probably about a $50/month ($600/year) value on comfort.  It's harder to place specific monetary values on my time (the primary cost), but again it seems like the cost of wearing a helmet is at least 1,000 times the benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: the cost is justified if the risk is increased or costs reduced&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm engaging in a riskier riding activity (going fast, anything &quot;technical&quot;, long enough rides that I'll get tired, riding at night, riding in wet conditions, etc), the benefit of wearing a helmet increases and it's likely math like mine works out in favor of a helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opportunity cost goes down (bald/shaved head, long ride so I'll be sweaty and need a shower afterwards anyways, rain so I'll need a hood anyways, cold so I need a hat anyways, riding home in the dark so nobody sees my messy hair afterwards), again the math works more in favor of a helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the risk is increased &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the opportunity cost goes down (long sweaty ride, ride home in the dark, rainy ride), the math goes much more strongly in favor of a helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T23:14:32.527" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T23:14:32.527" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-25T22:26:03.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1886" CreationDate="2010-10-25T22:32:10.260" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road frames come in a wide variety of styles, so it's impossible to give an exact answer without knowing more about your bike.  Also keep in mind that wider tires also have a larger diameter, so your bike has to have enough clearance for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical modern road bike with caliper brakes is going to have very tight tolerances: many will max out at a 28mm tire, some at only 25mm.    When mine was built, I had the frame customized and used long reach brakes just to allow 28mm tires plus fenders -- even then it's a tight fit.  Another problem with calipers and wide tires is that you may not have enough brake cable slack to remove the wheel easily (I have to deflate mine slightly to get the tire past the brake shoes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Touring and cyclocross frames tend to be built with much more generous proportions and have room for bigger tires.  Using cantilever brakes also helps give much more tire clearance vs. calipers.  My last touring frame used 32mm tires and could have easily gone up to at least 35mm, if not bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're putting on much larger tires, you should also consider larger rims (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's tire/rim sizing chart&lt;/a&gt;).  Using a big tire on too small a rim is a recipe for trouble.  Plus a wider rim adds more strength.  So you may need a wheel rebuild to make this happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T22:32:10.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1836" CreationDate="2010-10-25T23:06:35.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several companies that make sandals which are SPD compatible, even Shimano!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately everything I've seen personally looks relatively dorky style-wise, but I'm sure someone offers a SPD compatible sandal that also looks cool.  Then again, some cyclists think their glove/short/jersey tan looks cool so YMMV... but I guess it would still look less dorky than wearing casual clothes and cycling shoes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/shoes/mtb/product.-code-SH-SD66.-type-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano sandal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keenfootwear.com/product/fw10/shoes/men/pedal/commuter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Keen&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/bJZFH6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Nashbar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T23:06:35.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1891" CreationDate="2010-10-25T23:27:58.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it always in the same spot? Do you have a piece of gear that rubs in that spot? I know I have a jacket and if I'm not careful with the zipper I get wear spots really quick just above my crotch. It sounds kinda like what you're describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T23:27:58.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1891" CreationDate="2010-10-26T00:28:03.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've wiped excess sunscreen countless times on my cycling shorts with no ill effects.  Same goes for sweat, chain oil and miscellaneous grime picked up on roadside repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cycling clothing wears out from friction (simple things like a camelbak slowly rubbing holes in backs of jerseys, to obvious ones like accidental high-speed contact with asphalt) and from general wear &amp;amp; tear.  Lycra definitely loses its stretch over time too.  And watch out for loose velcro straps, they can tear up lycra and jerseys during a ride or in the wash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T00:28:03.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1891" CreationDate="2010-10-26T01:27:59.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How old are the pants? If they are more than say 5 years old and you use them a lot, my guess would be that the sun's UV rays are causing the elastomer's to break down and slowly deteriorate. Same thing happens to old rubber bands (lycra is, to be overly simplistic, just rubber and cotton woven together). It would make sense that they would first appear on the top of your thighs as that is the spot that is in the most direct sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T01:27:59.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1879" CreationDate="2010-10-26T03:09:39.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should look at using mountain style Shimano SPD compatible shoes.  In general, mountain shoes have a little more room and give and there are a lot of brands that are SPD compatible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keen&lt;/strong&gt; has a line of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keenfootwear.com/wall/shoes/men/pedal&quot;&gt;cycling shoes and sandals&lt;/a&gt; that you can find at larger outdoor retailers like REI or many places online.  I mention REI specifically because in the past I have ordered two sizes of clothing and footwear online and returned the one that didn't fit with no hassle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with &lt;strong&gt;Keen footwear&lt;/strong&gt; is that the run a little wide all over and are especially wide in the toe box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T03:09:39.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2010-10-26T04:20:30.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seattle, Washington and environs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;Nearly all King County Metro and Metro-operated Sound Transit buses are equipped with three-bike racks.  Folding bikes are allowed on the bus.  Non-conventional (trike/recumbent) bikes are not supported, and neither are bicycles with front racks that do not allow the rack's hook to sit atop the front wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One exception to the above is empty, dead-heading buses across the 520 Evergreen Point Floating Bridge between Seattle and Redmond (aka Microsoft) - the bridge has no bicycle facilities and a large number of commuters; drivers have been known to let passengers bring their bikes aboard.  The Microsoft dedicated shuttle may have reduced this behavior, however.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Sound Transit Express buses are equipped with two-bike racks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Link light rail trains have two bicycle hooks per train, plus room for standing bicycles.  There have been some complaints about the stated limit of four bicycles per car and the categorization of the bike hook area as 'first-come, first-served luggage storage'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the main reasons for the King County Metro bus-bike system was the 1991 passage of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intermodal_Surface_Transportation_Efficiency_Act&quot;&gt;ISTEA&lt;/a&gt;, which allowed the county to receive a nearly $1 million grant to add bicycle racks to every bus.  This and later sources of federal funding have also been used to update other systems in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T04:20:30.437" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-26T04:20:30.437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1858" CreationDate="2010-10-26T04:35:55.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://abundantadventures.com/quads.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mountain Tamer Quad&lt;/a&gt; lets you get down to a 16-tooth granny gear, although in the fourth position.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the upper range, it depends on the crankset - if you limit it to only rings in the third position I suspect a 74BCD 30-tooth would be the largest commonly available.  If you include the inner ring of a double crankset they can be as large as chainrings are made - 60-tooth rings can be purchased and you can get plans to machine your own chainrings up to 92 teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T04:35:55.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1774" CreationDate="2010-10-26T05:03:30.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Washington state has a fantastic example - &lt;a href=&quot;http://apps.leg.wa.gov/rcw/default.aspx?cite=46.61.790&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RCW 46.61.790: Intoxicated bicyclists&lt;/a&gt;.  In the US, DUI laws came into effect due to the overwhelming danger of operating motor vehicles while intoxicated.  The rationale for the penalties associated with these laws make little sense when applied to bicycles, and the Washington legislature agreed.  In fact, the state traffic laws were rewritten to specifically define laws that apply to 'vehicles' and those that apply only to 'motor vehicles'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practically speaking, it seems that nearly all roadway users take liberties with the letter of the law, and many roadway users engage in multiple modes. I myself have been known to drive 5mph over the speed limit, roll a stop sign on my bike, and jaywalk all in the course of the same afternoon.  It can be dangerous to make these sorts of conversations about any single class of user, and instead more useful to discuss the rationale behind the laws and the appropriate level of enforcement or alternative solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T05:03:30.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2010-10-26T05:18:10.303" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Portland has also developed one of the greatest solutions ever: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bta4bikes.org/at_work/bikeboulevards.php&quot;&gt;Bicycle Boulevards&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On bicycle boulevards, stop signs are turned to keep cyclists moving, and traffic lights and  curb extensions help cyclists cross busy streets. Traffic calming slows cars down, and drivers are discouraged from using them for cut-throughs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's remarkable how well they work.  Speed bumps, curb bumpouts, relatively low speed limits, and intersections where cars can only turn but bicycles can continue straight reveal much of the promise of healthy car-bike-pedestrian interaction.  Portland of course has the advantage of a nicely-parallel street grid, where bicycle boulevards can be situated one block off major arterials.  Seattle, in contrast, has few locations suitable for this due to the hilly topography and location of the major thoroughfares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T16:40:50.420" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T16:40:50.420" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-26T05:18:10.303" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1579" CreationDate="2010-10-26T05:33:25.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is, as usual, advisable to learn your local regulations.  For example, Washington state law &lt;a href=&quot;http://apps.leg.wa.gov/rcw/default.aspx?cite=46.61.755&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;explicitly allows&lt;/a&gt; cyclists to ride on sidewalks and in crosswalks, as long as they yield to pedestrians while doing so.  In your given scenario, use due caution, motorists noticing a red light on the cross street may not expect someone in the crosswalk in front of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T05:33:25.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="820" CreationDate="2010-10-26T06:51:45.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another cargo solution is a messenger bag or backpack strapped to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porteur_bicycle&quot;&gt;porteur&lt;/a&gt; rack or in a front basket.  You have all the flexibility of a human-designed bag plus the ability to easily carry large/bulky loads when needed.  Many bicycles handle quite well with even a moderate front load, but the lower the load can sit the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T06:51:45.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1432" CreationDate="2010-10-26T08:19:43.787" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Netherlands the accepted age for first bicycle rides is about 9 months. The main point to watch out for is that many bicycle seats are a bit big for children that age so you have to take special care they can't bounce or climb out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently bicycle adapters for maxicosi chairs have appeared such as the one below. Thus you can also transport babies on a bicycle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmjxb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;maxicosi bicycle adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a cargo bike you would typically use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kidstraffic.nl/index.php/weber-babyschaal-tbv-fietskar.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;one of these&lt;/a&gt; for your baby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2011-05-10T06:56:23.767" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T06:56:23.767" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2010-10-26T11:14:36.053" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything that leads to more bicycles on the streets is a safety innovation: more cycles means that car drivers become aware of their presence and thus drive more carefully. Anyway car speed decreases and reduces the risk of accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike sharing facilities, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velib.paris.fr/&quot;&gt;Vélib'&lt;/a&gt; in Paris, are one of these safety innovations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among others are: contraflow cycle tracks and bus lanes open to cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T11:14:36.053" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-26T11:14:36.053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-26T11:32:59.510" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against while commuting&lt;/strong&gt;: It is useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Studies have observed that in accidents killing cyclists, the injuries were such that a helmet wouldn't have saved them. Anyway the risk of a head injury in a bike accident is about 15%, which is the same in car accident and in walk accident. Who would promote wearing helmets for car drivers or pedestrians? A documented article can be found on the site of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://fubicy.org/spip.php?article191&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;french organization promoting urban cycling&lt;/a&gt;. In summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Casual bicycling is not especially dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What little data exists doesn't demonstrate a correlation between increased helmet use and increased cyclist safety.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mandatory helmet laws decrease bicycling substantially. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cycling risks are far lower than risks associated with lack of exercise. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In countries where more people ride bicycles, bicycling is safer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: helmet laws and &quot;fear mongering&quot; around bicycling hurt public health&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T03:46:17.867" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T03:46:17.867" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-26T11:32:59.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-26T11:52:42.133" Score="9" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older Trek 2100 that has carbon fiber tubes with aluminum stays (The frame is used early 90's 2100/2150/2200/2300 road bikes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a recent accident with a car (going down hill, guy pulls into the road from a driveway  and just... stops, so I bounce off his door) I took my bike to a shop to check for frame cracks, which they didn't find thankfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They did point out though that in the lower frame joint (by the front derailleur) the carbon tubes are separating from the aluminum joint. This is apparently unrelated to the accident and something that naturally happens as the epoxy ages and the bike is regularly used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How dangerous is this? How likely is it to catastrophically separate outside of an accident type situation (i.e. just riding around)? And is it possible to rebuild the frame with fresh epoxy (I have access to a machine shop and some industrial grade epoxy)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love downtube shifters too much to just toss it away :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T10:03:42.850" Title="Older Carbon Bike Safety" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-26T12:00:11.063" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FOR&lt;/strong&gt; helmets&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;AGAINST&lt;/strong&gt; focusing only on helmets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't so much that there is a negative aspect to WEARING helmets, obviously they can do little to hurt and a lot to help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem is that the overall focus of bike safety instruction and legislation is on helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We seem to think that simply slapping a helmet on ourselves or our children is enough to secure our/their safety. We neglect to teach or focus on much more relevant bike safety issues. Like funding dedicated bike lanes/roads for (sub)urban riding, or better educating drivers about cyclists on the road&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, you would be much better off if you used your head instead of just covering it with styrofoam, but doing both is definitely the preferred choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="678" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T21:53:22.910" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T21:53:22.910" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-26T12:00:11.063" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1914" CreationDate="2010-10-26T13:16:59.077" Score="29" ViewCount="2447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a part of biking endurance and speed come from having a perfect pedal stroke. What should I do to improve my pedal stroke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-06-07T19:26:52.283" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T17:01:47.463" Title="How can I improve my pedal stroke?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;best-practice&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1912" CreationDate="2010-10-26T13:23:28.247" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pushing and pulling and rhythm: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll certainly need clipless pedals - you won't develop a decent stroke if you're only pushing down on the pedal. You need to be pulling as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advocate spending some time riding a fixie, too. If you &lt;strong&gt;have&lt;/strong&gt; to keep you legs moving, you will start to feel more connected to your bike and its speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a cadence monitor and try to maintain an even cadence when in different gears. When you're not on your fixed, concentrate on spinning your legs. Perhaps try a gear or two higher than you might, purely to spin up a higher cadence. Also maybe trying a stationary spinning bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T13:40:55.743" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T13:40:55.743" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1912" CreationDate="2010-10-26T14:43:19.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, make sure that you're properly fitted to the bike.  Very hard to get it right without the basics being in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T14:43:19.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1929" CreationDate="2010-10-26T15:23:50.623" Score="36" ViewCount="2741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't currently own a pair of cycling shorts. I just wear a pair of running shorts underneath some running leggings. I'm thinking of getting my first pair of cycling shorts, but as there are so many choices available, what should I be looking for? In terms of padding, is there some type of padding that is better (more durable, more comfort) than others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-06-05T18:33:36.023" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T01:09:44.027" Title="What should I look for in a good pair of cycling shorts?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-26T18:19:38.100" Score="15" ViewCount="1846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went for a ride last weekend around some forrest trails, it was particulary muddy with lots of puddles, and was also raining at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a good set of mudguards, so my back was reasonably clean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only part that really got wet/dirty were my trainers and shins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand mudguards can only prevent dirt/water to a certain extent, but what can I get to prevent me ruining my trainers on each ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard about overshoes, but have read mixed reviews about how after 10 minutes or so you'll still be just as wet as if you didn't bother, and they're not much use if you come off your bike and step in a puddle..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about mountain bike shoes, are they waterproof?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:52:54.557" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T08:43:30.193" Title="How can I stop my feet/shins getting soaked/muddy when cycling offroad in the winter?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1912" CreationDate="2010-10-26T18:53:11.973" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pushing down on the pedals is a natural thing. So to improve the &quot;roundness&quot; of your pedal stroke, completely ignore the down-stroke, instead focus on the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Continuing the pedal stroke &quot;across the bottom&quot;. This will probably feel something like trying to scrape mud off the bottom of your shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the up-stroke, focus on driving your knee upwards toward the handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the top of the up-stroke, focus on sliding your foot over and down into the down-stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Focusing on the non-instinctive 3/4 of the pedal stroke has really helped me improve form.  Using a fixed gear (or staying in a low-ish gear), find someplace where you can spin out your cadence (a slight down-hill but not too steep).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Focusing on the 3/4 of the stroke that isn't pushing straight down, pedal as fast as you can until you find yourself starting to bounce. Keep doing this, and as you get better at the non-down-stroke, you'll find that the pedaling cadence at which you start bouncing will get higher and higher, as your pedal stroke gets more round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T18:53:11.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1916" CreationDate="2010-10-26T18:59:12.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as personal comfort goes, you want a chamois that's thick and stiff enough to provide padding, but not so thick or stiff as to feel diaper-ish. A thick pad that you can squeeze to almost nothing with your fingers will act the same way when you sit on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But whatever you do, don't skimp on your shorts. Everyone will have personal preferences as to comfort. Some prefer a gel chamois over a foam one, and vice versa, but the key is to get the best shorts you can afford, and the more you pay, the more likely you are to be comfortable on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer bib shorts over any regular shorts I've ever tried, and will probably never buy a pair of non-bibs again. I find that the bibs hold the shorts in place much better (could be because I have a bit of a gut :p) and that I don't feel myself wanting to adjust my shorts while I'm riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T18:59:12.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1923" CreationDate="2010-10-26T21:30:14.023" Score="10" ViewCount="3869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed rusting screws at a ~ 1 year old bike and rusting screws at another bike after a few months, where the screws were part of a replacement (front gear ring package).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both bikes were usually placed in rain protected places when possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the question: Is this normal? Or do I have to change my bike dealer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, are not stainless screws standard? Or are they too expensive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="680" LastEditorUserId="680" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T15:28:56.483" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T17:22:16.337" Title="Are rusting screws a sign of cheap/bad material?" Tags="&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1920" CreationDate="2010-10-26T21:40:56.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is fairly normal. Many of the screws are are stainless but where you use the hex key on them they still rust. My best guess is that this is because you scuff the metal when you remove and put them back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also mention that this happens on whitewater kayaks. Again typically in the places where a screw driver has touched the screw/bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my understanding stainless steel is a trade off between stainless and strength. The more stainless it is the weaker it is and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T21:40:56.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2010-10-26T21:44:13.750" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had a pair of MTB shoes that are waterproof though I wouldn't doubt if they exist. Even if they were you'd still have water coming of your shin and into the shoe (this is what makes even waterproof shoe covers a bit wet inside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just tough it out. I have a set of neoprene shoe covers that keep my feet warm and maybe even dry depending on how wet it is. I have a set of full length tights and a set of leg warmers. If either of those are dirty I just hose them off when I clean my bike at the end of the ride and let them dry. I'll wash them every few rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T21:44:13.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1920" CreationDate="2010-10-26T21:50:06.687" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel is rust-resistant not rust-&lt;em&gt;proof&lt;/em&gt;, especially if the bike sees the outdoors a lot, it isn't uncommon for screws to get a fine sprinkling of brown spots. The good thing about screws is that they can be easily replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were very enterprising you can probably replace your bolts with titanium ones. They don't rust in the same way as steel does at all. However, they are usually weaker than the equivalent steel bolts, so we would not recommend replacing bolts like the stem or seat clamp bolts without careful research on high-quality titanium bolts. If you do this, be sure to research titanium material grades; commercially pure titanium is likely too weak for structural bolts, whereas grade 5 (aka 6/4 titanium) is probably what you would want for these bolts. For reference, most titanium bicycle frames are made of grade 9, aka 3/2.5 titanium. The numbers for grade 5 and 9 reference the proportion of aluminum and vanadium in the alloy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painted components (like your bike frame) are naturally rust resistant because the paint prevents contact with oxygen, which means that the metal can't oxidise and also explains why its not a bad idea to touch up on large paint chips or scratches with touch up laquer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ADDED&lt;/strong&gt; a quick wikipedia glance explains that while stainless steel gets covered in rust, unlike regular steel the rust is &lt;em&gt;passive&lt;/em&gt; meaning that it will just stay there (looking unsightly). With regular steel, rust has the nasty habit of eating away at the metal (it is an &lt;em&gt;active&lt;/em&gt; oxidation site). The rust on stainless steel behaves like a coating that prevents further oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, see comments by @cmaster: not all steel bolts are stainless, particularly on lower-cost bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="38270" LastEditDate="2020-11-30T17:22:16.337" LastActivityDate="2020-11-30T17:22:16.337" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2020-11-30T04:29:59.283" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-26T22:54:19.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For&lt;/strong&gt;: When swooped by birds (such as magpies) in spring, it is harder for them to take away a bit of flesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T22:54:19.707" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-26T22:54:19.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1916" CreationDate="2010-10-27T02:59:50.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A die-cut and formed chamois will generally be more comfortable than just a plain pad.  This type of chamois will usually have pre-formed creases and differing levels of padding in different areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More &quot;panels&quot; will generally contour to fit your body better than fewer panels.  All of my favorite shorts in the past have been 8-panel or higher.  I also prefer shorts sewn with flat seams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer bib-style shorts, and will wear them under a tough shell if mountain biking.  I find that the waist band of regular shorts tends to bunch and roll under my stomach when I bend forward at the waist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lycra comes in different weights or thicknesses as well. The thicker the fabric, the more support and durability, but the trade-off is more heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T02:59:50.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1732" CreationDate="2010-10-27T04:01:17.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that I use my gloves for on nearly every ride is putting my palm down on the tops of my tires after going through a section of stone dust or cinders. In fact, just today I was forced to ride through a section where some fresh blacktop spillage stuck to my tires. A quick drag on each wheel and the tires were completely clean again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T04:01:17.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2010-10-27T04:05:33.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best cycling investments I made has been a set of 'sleeves' and 'legs'. They are lycra with a very thin lining. I wear them when the temps are between 50 (which is as cold as I can comfortably stand to ride in lycra, even with a t-shirt under-layer) and 65 F or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have extended my cycling season from just summer to summer +6 weeks or so on either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T04:05:33.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2010-10-27T04:28:30.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent my highschool years on the wrestling team, which meant working out in multiple layers (2 sweatshirts was typical).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its been several years and the habit is hard to kick. Unless the temperature is scorching I always wear a sweatshirt when riding. But then again, I'm not particularly fast, and I'm big enough that the sweatshirt adds negligible drag (great for my cycling group because on a windy day, my wake is wide enough for them to ride side by side behind me). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if its a pleasure ride then I wear comfortable clothing. The sweatshirt is something to maintain a good work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T04:28:30.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1916" CreationDate="2010-10-27T11:24:25.530" Score="31" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What type of shorts?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you need to work out what sort of cycle shorts you are looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regular cycling shorts&lt;/strong&gt; - these are your classic lycra bike shorts, no bibs, no extra fancy bits.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally quite comfortable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They do have a tendency to &quot;roll up&quot; under your gut a bit, particularly for those of us that carry a bit more weight than we should.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously a lot easier to relieve yourself with these - probably an important consideration on longer rides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bib shorts&lt;/strong&gt; - like regular cycling shorts, but with a &quot;bib and brace&quot; arrangement that go over your shoulders to keep the shorts up.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even more comfortable than regular cycling shorts as they don't have the tension of the waist elastic around your waist and they tend to stay in place better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't roll up under your belly like regular shorts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are more awkward to go to the toilet with, requiring you to either remove half your clothes, or stretch them around a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shy shorts&lt;/strong&gt; - basically normal looking shorts with a cycling short liner.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less comfortable on the bike than proper cycling shorts, but still a lot better than non-cycling specific shorts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More durable, which is often a good thing when mountain biking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are not comfortable wearing lycra in public, or are going to be off the bike for a while during the day, they can be less embarrassing to wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Undershorts&lt;/strong&gt; - like regular shorts, but usually made of a lighter mesh fabric to allow them to be worn under other shorts or trousers.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow you to have most of the comfort of bike shorts with any of your regular clothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What features to look for?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what are the features that you are looking for in good quality bike shorts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A high quality chamois&lt;/strong&gt; - these days this means that the chamois should be &quot;3-D&quot; molded and offer a reasonable degree of padding, but not too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good quality material&lt;/strong&gt; - look for the fabrics that have 4-way stretch rather than 2-way stretch. they will fit your body more closely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leg grippers&lt;/strong&gt; - good leg grippers at the bottom of the shorts will hold the shorts in place without being excessively tight. Often they will have a &quot;tacky&quot; rubber feel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number of panels&lt;/strong&gt; - the more panels, the more the shorts are tailored to fit your body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Height at the back&lt;/strong&gt; - not really applicable for bib shorts, but regular cycling shorts should be long in the back so that they don't expose your back when you are bent over in a cycling position. Some cheaper shorts don't do this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compression fabric&lt;/strong&gt; - a more recent trend, but some cycling shorts are being made with a compression fabric that applies more pressure to your muscles to help them perform better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T01:09:44.027" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T01:09:44.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1932" CreationDate="2010-10-27T12:38:21.660" Score="10" ViewCount="3630" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time has come to refresh the wardrobe a little, and the old woollen cycling jerseys need some young blood to compete against.  What should I be looking for in a modern cycling top?  Is lycra used anymore?  Does the cut of the jersey (other than being tight) have any effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T11:35:42.670" Title="What should I look for in a cycling jersey?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-27T13:22:16.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For:&lt;/strong&gt; Wow...  Ride your bike down the road at 20 miles an hour, obeying rules of the road.  Have a pickup truck roll through a stop sign an pull directly into your right-of-way path.  Hit the pickup, go over the hood and land on the pavement.  Note the extremely loud sound inside of your skull: the sound of the helmet absorbing the impact and breaking in 7 places just as it was designed to do, spreading the impact accross 7 different break points instead of one concentrated concussion-inducing, possibly brain-damaging location on your skull.  Get up and walk away with only a headache in stunned amazement that people don't want to be inconvenienced by wearing a helmet.  Ok, you don't need to wear a helmet 99.99% of the time.  But when your head hits the pavement, well, it was totally worth the 25 years of inconvenience. Its up to you, gambler.  Odds are pretty good in your favor...  But I submit: you'd gladly go back and wear your helmet a thousand times if you could undo the accident you were just in...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T13:22:16.623" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-27T13:22:16.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1930" CreationDate="2010-10-27T14:06:44.277" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fit is the most important thing I look for.  A cycling top should fit snugly, without being skin-tight.  Having less extra fabric will mean less air resistance, which makes a surprising difference at higher speeds.  Also, too much excess fabric will flap in the wind, which can be annoying too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that the length in back is long enough to cover your lower back when you're riding in an aggressive position.  If a long-sleeve, the sleeves need to be long enough to cover your wrists with your arms extended out front.  (some normal clothing fails these two checks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last caveat about jersey style:  make sure the zipper opens far enough for you to be able to take it off after a long sweaty ride.  I have one with a short zipper and it's a real struggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For materials, there's lots of nice synthetics to choose from that are lightweight, wick away moisture and are very comfortable in hot weather.  But for cool or wet conditions, nothing beats wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T14:06:44.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1891" CreationDate="2010-10-27T15:10:30.730" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lycra (spandex) comes in two forms as far as I know: polyester-lycra and nylon-lycra. Polyester based lycra will withstand harsh conditions whereas nylon based lycra will not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Polyester is hydrophobic, meaning it does not absorb water. This means that when it is dyed, only the color of the dye dissolves into the fabric (not any water-base), making the dye permanent. Nylon® possesses hydrophilic qualities (that is, it absorbs water). Its inability to repel water causes the fabric to swell and ultimately weakens the molecular structure. The dyestuffs used on nylon® tend to oxidize, a reaction which is catalyzed by light. The microscopic effects range from color fading to complete degradation of the polymer matrix. This is why the colors fade in nylon-lycra® swimsuits over time, but do not fade in polyester-lycra® swimsuits (Man-Made Fiber Yearbook, August 2000).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.agonswim.com/fabrics/fabricInformationGuide.cfm&quot;&gt;Fabric Information Guide&lt;/a&gt; for more information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T15:24:50.027" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T15:24:50.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-27T16:40:57.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against:&lt;/strong&gt; You'll live longer whether or not you wear a helmet&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(insisting that one needs to wear a helmet every time I step on a bike decreases overall life expectancy since it will result in less riding) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using myself as an example: Cycling is the bulk of the exercise I get, and I probably have a genetic predisposition to heart problems.  The odds of a heart attack (or other life-threatening health problem exacerbated by lack of exercise) if I don't cycle are probably much higher than the odds of getting killed not wearing a helmet while cycling. &lt;em&gt;If I felt I had to wear a helmet absolutely every time I got on a bicycle, I'd cycle less and actually reduce my life expectancy.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've seen of the statistics (may have to dig up the per-passenger-mile stats stuff sometime) of death per mile of cycling are lower than per mile of being in a car or per mile of walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: the purpose of a helmet is increasing my likely life span, and requiring or over-emphasizing helmets may work contrary to that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Much like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1678/what-are-the-reasons-for-and-against-wearing-a-bicycle-helmet/1894#1894&quot;&gt;another response I made here&lt;/a&gt;, if the cycling is particularly risky the odds move in favor of a helmet. This argument only works for safe vehicular cycling below about 15mph)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T17:14:20.383" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-27T16:40:57.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1936" CreationDate="2010-10-28T01:11:55.250" Score="10" ViewCount="21915" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently ride a hybrid that came with 700x32c tires. Can I swap out a narrower tire without changing the rims, or do rims only fit a specific size of tire?   How small can I go before I have to buy new rims?  I hear having narrower tires makes you go quite a bit faster.  Does it really help that much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T10:14:20.307" Title="Can I get smaller tires without changing my rims?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1935" CreationDate="2010-10-28T01:33:24.913" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most 700c rims will work with essentially any size of tire. Yes, smaller tires &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; reduce rolling resistance a little, but unless you're road racing, it's rarely worth going below about 700x23c, IMO. Also note that just being smaller doesn't &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; mean lower rolling resistance -- one brand of 700x19c might have higher rolling resistance than another brand of 700x20c, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big change (if any) happens when you switch to slick tires (and most 700x32c tires have fairly substantial tread if not outright knobs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T01:33:24.913" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1930" CreationDate="2010-10-28T09:36:46.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One essential feature I have learned to appreciate in cycling jerseys is a tight fit around my neck, preferably with a zipper. I've had a wasp enter my shirt while I was doing 70+ km/h down hill on two occasions and it was all I could do to keep my bike under control while breaking as hard as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1930/what-should-i-look-for-in-a-cycling-jersey/1932#1932&quot;&gt;darkcanuck&lt;/a&gt;, I look for a tight fit, a long back, and long enough sleeves (for long-sleeve jerseys anyway). I prefer light synthetic materials for summer riding and wool for when the weather gets colder (I actually wear woolen jerseys all year round here in the Netherlands). An extra advantage of wool I like is that it doesn't pick up the sweaty smell as quickly as synthetics do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T09:36:46.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1910" CreationDate="2010-10-28T10:03:42.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know carbon is most &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikewagon.com/Shop/Control/fp/SFV/32140/view_page/bike-frame-materials-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;prone to catastrophic failure&lt;/a&gt; of all frame materials. Depending on the type of separation you see it could be a bit dangerous to keep on using your bike as is. The catastrophic failure occurs because the epoxy becomes brittle over time. A new layer will probably extend the life of your frame just by protecting the original epoxy from the elements. However, it will also hide the progress of the degradation of the material underneath, so you won't be able to monitor the extent of the degradation. I'm not sure you could repair your frame to the extent that the new layers will be strong enough to replace the old ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not an expert, so I could be very wrong. Maybe your best bet is to send &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calfeedesign.com/howtosendrepair.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these guys&lt;/a&gt; a picture of the damage and ask them for their professional opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T10:03:42.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1930" CreationDate="2010-10-28T10:05:49.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do longer trips then check if the bags on the back are large and solid enough. I also like summer jerseys that have zippers to the bottom or at least low enough. This is especially practical when riding uphill on hot days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="656" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T10:05:49.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1930" CreationDate="2010-10-28T10:07:34.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with previous posts, you want a perfect fit first and foremost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I also look for the particulars, like a good quality zip and proper stitching - its a dead giveaway between a knock-off and something that is going to last you the years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="doug" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T10:07:34.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1916" CreationDate="2010-10-28T10:09:54.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a small tip : be sure that the fabric is not to transparent. You don't want the person riding behind seeing things they'd rather not, especially when it's sunny this is happened to me more then once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="656" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T10:09:54.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1943" CreationDate="2010-10-28T11:58:27.517" Score="11" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard mention before of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1449/needed-training-time-or-speed-for-each-category-of-racer&quot;&gt;racing cyclists in the US&lt;/a&gt; being, say, a Category 2 racer.  What are these categories and how are they decided? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T19:43:51.060" Title="How are the racing categories in the US decided?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;us&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1942" CreationDate="2010-10-28T15:25:51.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, it is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacycling.org/news/user/story.php?id=580&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;USA Cycling racing categories&lt;/a&gt; that people are referring to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Road Upgrades&#xA;Guidelines and Notes by Category:&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;5-4:   Experience in 10 mass start races.&#xA;         Local Associations may also establish policies where upgrade&#xA;         credit is given for taking asanctioned rider education clinic.&#xA;&#xA;4-3:   20 points; or experience in 25 races with&#xA;        a minimum of 10 top ten finishes with&#xA;        fields of 30 riders or more, or 20&#xA;        pack finishes with fields over 50. 30&#xA;        points in 12 months is an automatic upgrade&#xA;        - USA Cycling-sanctioned rider camps and clinics that are&#xA;          approved by the Local Associations for upgrading will&#xA;          count as a maximum of three upgrade points when upgrading&#xA;          from category 4 to 3&#xA;&#xA;3-2:   30 points&#xA;         40 points in 12 months is an automatic upgrade&#xA;&#xA;2-1:   35 points&#xA;         50 points in 12 months is an automatic upgrade&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="11045" LastEditDate="2017-07-28T19:43:51.060" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T19:43:51.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="791" CreationDate="2010-10-28T21:55:10.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that this could have been caused by breaking and joining a Shimano chain without using the correct connector pin.  The final time I got the derailer replaced along with the chain and it's been fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T21:55:10.217" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-28T21:55:10.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1875" CreationDate="2010-10-29T03:51:32.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can pick the bike up and bounce it from an inch or two.  Check all the joints of the rack.  You can check any and all bolts and tighten them, including bottle cage bolts.  Remember to check the lock-rings on the valve stem of your tube.  If those are loose they will rattle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Laura" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T03:51:32.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1935" CreationDate="2010-10-29T10:14:20.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For smooth tires, rolling resistance is a relatively small factor in terms of your overall performance.  The optimal tire depends on your riding conditions and personal riding style.  Narrower does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; automatically equate to faster - there are both terrible narrow tires and excellent wide tires available today.  If a tire otherwise possesses the characteristics you desire - such as grip, flat resistance, cost, handling - you'll probably be just fine riding it from a pure performance perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also categorically false that maximizing the pressure in your tires will make you faster.  There is a &quot;sweet spot&quot; in inflation where the tire is stiff enough to roll smoothly but still able to smooth out road vibrations that lead to fatigue.  Bicycle Quarterly tested and published a handy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/images/TireDrop.pdf&quot;&gt;inflation cheat sheet&lt;/a&gt; that may help you dial in your optimal riding pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as rim compatibility, the width of you rim will affect the shape of the tire; if you plan on running any tire narrower than 28mm you should measure your rim and consult &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot;&gt;this handy chart&lt;/a&gt;.  It's overly-cautious but a useful rule of thumb for the new mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T10:14:20.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1732" CreationDate="2010-10-29T14:43:23.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other purpose for gloves is that if you have rubber grips, for example grip shifters on a hybrid or mountain bike, gloves will protect them from deterioration due to sweaty palms.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride two bikes with rubber grips, one always with gloves and one without.  After a few years, the grip shifters on my hybrid are ruined and the rubber can't be replaced without replacing the whole shifter.  The other bike's grips still look great after 8 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="528" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T14:43:23.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-10-29T15:29:30.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;You will usually cycle along the road, close to the kerb. When you fall off, you are likely to fall into the kerb on your head. It happend to a friend of mine, and his helmet was dented. If he didn't wear helmet, it would have been his head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Andy" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T15:29:30.473" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-29T15:29:30.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-30T11:20:45.120" Score="16" ViewCount="7469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit baffled by the large choice of cycling waterproof jackets. Could someone recommend me a good budget waterproof jacket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit more information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I mostly ride off road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About £70 (approx 112 USD) is the    maximum I'm willing to spend &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd like&#xA;to buy something I can wear all year &#xA;round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T23:19:52.917" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T17:50:58.963" Title="Recommended budget waterproof jacket" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-17T07:35:47.500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2010-10-30T14:59:52.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bizarre though it may seem you could do worse than take a look at Aldi's extremely cheap cycling equipment, I bought a waterproof jacket from them 2 years ago and it does the job adequately. If I remember right it cost £10, and is still going strong, I was in one of their shops last week and they appear to have a new range of cycling stuff for sale (winter cycling underwear etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of your requirements you can wear it in the winter but it's just a waterproof (and windproof outer) so you'd need warmer layers underneath for colder weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T14:59:52.820" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-17T07:35:47.500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1954" CreationDate="2010-10-30T18:05:31.700" Score="48" ViewCount="31921" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute to work on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marin.co.uk/2011/bikepage.php?ModNo=11SR&quot;&gt;Marin San Rafael&lt;/a&gt; on roads over a mix of flat to steep roads. My bike came with &quot;700 x 35c with Puncture Protection&quot; semi-slick tires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dtVTB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the bike shed at work I noticed another bike had slick tires, without any tread. After doing a little research online I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Continental_Ultra_Gator_Duraskin_Road_Tyre/5300002585/&quot;&gt;these tires&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpRmD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering whether or not it's worth changed my existing tires for these. My main desire is faster, easier riding on the road. Will these (or similar) tires provide less rolling resistance over the default tires I already have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="1757" LastEditDate="2012-07-08T04:01:01.747" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T08:46:02.543" Title="Are slick tires worth it for commuting?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1952" CreationDate="2010-10-30T18:16:24.427" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice a significant difference immediately by moving to a proper road tire. Unless you are doing significant amounts of riding of that bike on dirt or mud, you are better off going with the gators. Those tires are pretty tough and will do well even if you have some of your commute on gravel. (I have these on my commuter bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T18:16:24.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1952" CreationDate="2010-10-30T20:26:50.457" Score="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, definitely -- if you're riding on mostly paved roads, switch to bald-ish tires. Rolling resistance is huge and equates directly to effort, though as you start going really fast it is dwarfed by air and gravity of course. Per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rolling_resistance&quot;&gt;the graph here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tWe9O.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, one caution: road tires tend to be skinny, and you probably want fat-but-bald tires instead. If you go from a 35mm wide treaded tire to a 25mm bald tire, you will feel a lot more bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary: bald, for sure, but don't sacrifice too much width/comfort in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="124" LastEditorUserId="124" LastEditDate="2012-07-08T17:21:04.727" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T17:21:04.727" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1812" CreationDate="2010-10-31T07:20:22.683" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My summary of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://helmets.org/fit.htm&quot;&gt;helmets.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;'s fitting tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size the shell to your head by using/removing the (comfort) pads. Different helmets are made in different sizes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place your helmet level on your head. Typically the front rim of your helmet sits two fingers' width above your eyebrows.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise the Y connection of the side straps up to just below your ears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the chin strap until you know the helmet can not move or rotate without your head coming along for the ride (but make sure you can still speak, drink from your water bottle, and so on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="698" LastActivityDate="2010-10-31T07:20:22.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1952" CreationDate="2010-11-01T04:07:31.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yup. Go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently changed from my hybrid's default 700x35 with &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; tread to a 700x32 slick. Since my avg. speed has gone up a couple mph I think it was worth the change from an &quot;effort&quot; perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, I wonder if going from 80 max psi on the factory tires to 110 max psi isn't the key factor here. But I like it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T04:07:31.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1958" CreationDate="2010-11-01T07:15:39.383" Score="8" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is good to have it plastic so it won't break the inner tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is size is about 10cm*2cm*0.5cm at maximum, a small thing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you will attach them to spokes so you can change tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you usually need them two pcs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I miss it, I work with spoons to remove tires but I really need the item. So I am just looking for the word of the tool to buy them from Ebay or some other shop online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please, create a label 'definition question' or equivalent.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="563" LastEditDate="2010-11-01T07:31:11.090" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T21:15:37.940" Title="Name for the thing attached to spokes to remove tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2010-11-01T07:20:53.947" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyre lever (in the UK anyway - WP redirects that to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_iron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tire iron&lt;/a&gt; but to me that sounds more like metal fatigue. After all, they're not made of iron).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastEditorUserId="699" LastEditDate="2010-11-01T07:27:04.097" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T07:27:04.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18" CreationDate="2010-11-01T08:29:05.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Single-butted spokes&lt;/strong&gt; are what you need, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sapim.be/index.php?st=products&amp;amp;sub=spokes&amp;amp;category=3960&amp;amp;id=3387&amp;amp;detail=butted&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sapim Strong&lt;/a&gt;. Used on tandems and heavily-laden expedition touring bikes. That also means hand-built wheels, naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T08:29:05.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-11-01T13:08:25.167" Score="21" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Tire Lever&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;aka Tire Iron&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tire lever is a small, narrow lever used to help lift a tire off a rim.  Traditionally they were steel, later aluminium alloy and now most commonly they are plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important feature of a tire lever is that it does not have any sharp edges that may &amp;quot;pinch&amp;quot; the tube (that is, become wedged between the tube and the tire) causing a small hole or tear in the tube.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Operation of tire levers usually involves either a pair or a triple set of levers. Levers can also be used help get a tire onto a rim when it is a particularly tight fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kn5Bd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plastic &amp;amp; Alloy tire levers&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_iron&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_iron&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T13:08:25.167" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-01T13:08:25.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2010-11-01T13:10:21.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is now an entry in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/&quot;&gt;Terminology Index&lt;/a&gt; for &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1960#1960&quot;&gt;tire levers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T13:10:21.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1963" CreationDate="2010-11-01T13:13:52.213" Score="6" ViewCount="1669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mavic make a wheelset called Ksyrium.  I can spell it but every time I go to say it, I come out with something different.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know how to pronounce the name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T13:15:22.937" Title="How do you pronounce Ksyrium?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1962" CreationDate="2010-11-01T13:15:22.937" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pronounced without the K, see-ree-um.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: a bunch of bike-shop-workers who seemed to know their wheels ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T13:15:22.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1965" CreationDate="2010-11-01T20:10:35.390" Score="16" ViewCount="29547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to clipless pedals. I got some Shimano ones, with Specialized MTB shoes. They are an SPD clipless pedal, and the shop adjusted them as loose as they go to unclip from them. My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How tight should I adjust them? I'm not unclipping unexpectedly from the pedals, and so far (crossing fingers) have not had any crashes due to the settings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When would you want to change the tightness of the pedals? Based on terrain? Riding? etc? Do you ever really adjust them?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="704" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T12:59:48.843" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T12:59:48.843" Title="When and how tight should you adjust your clipless pedals?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1964" CreationDate="2010-11-01T20:52:31.863" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two guidelines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're unclipping unexpectedly (happens most often when pulling up) then increase the tension.  That means turning the adjustment bolt clockwise to increase the spring tension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're having trouble clipping in/out then loosen the tension until you can easily clip in/out when you need to.  Turn the adjustment bolt counter-clockwise to relax the spring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not having either problem, then no need to adjust at all.  If you're having both, then you'll need to choose which is more important (probably clipping in/out) and adjust for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It's been a while since I used SPDs, but I think double-sided pedals have an adjustment bolt for each side -- make sure to set both the same!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T20:52:31.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1964" CreationDate="2010-11-01T20:55:40.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is, as often the case, 'it depends', but these are the guidelines I tend to go by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are new to clipless, I'd tend to leave them a bit loose, at least until you get past the 'in danger of tipping over at a stop sign' phase of clipless ownership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they aren't causing you problems and you don't do much aggressive riding, I'd leave them setup at pretty loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do any racing or spirited group rides, then it will probably be worth it to tighten them down some. Coming out of the pedals while standing and sprinting is a fairly good way to end up on the pavement or taking someone else out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a mountain biker and you use this bike to alternate between cross country and commuting rides, then I personally would tighten the clips before doing any lengthy or technical offroad rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T20:55:40.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1964" CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:21:34.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't adjusted mine in 2 years (?) - all I do is wipe a bit of lube on the pedal cleat clip thingy when I oil my chain. Keeps my foot from freezing into the clip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T21:21:34.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2010-11-02T02:40:53.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Full fenders with mudflaps keep you &lt;strong&gt;much, much&lt;/strong&gt; drier -- you can make your own mudflaps out of a cut-in-half water bottle, if need be. Neoprene booties are nice, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="655" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T02:40:53.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2010-11-02T14:50:57.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear waterproof Gore-Tex walking boots.  My feet have never got wet while wearing them, even when riding in a downpour.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="690" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T14:50:57.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1975" CreationDate="2010-11-02T14:52:19.913" Score="7" ViewCount="1687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've managed to tear a couple holes in my panniers. Nothing enormous; they can still hold their contents, but they definitely need patching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a good way to patch them, keeping them waterproof and hopefully durable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're Detours, 50% nylon and 50% polyester, just simple one-piece bags. They're several years old, and they were a gift - haven't managed to find the exact same thing online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastEditorUserId="634" LastEditDate="2010-11-02T15:00:38.470" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:31:44.683" Title="Patching waterproof panniers" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1971" CreationDate="2010-11-02T17:22:24.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At least in the short term I would recommend duct tape.  Duct tape will stick even after it gets wet and is pretty solid.  It may not be the best long term solution but it is easy and cheap.  It will not add any structural properties to your bags but it will definitely deal with water proofing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="157" LastEditDate="2010-11-02T18:51:05.060" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T18:51:05.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1971" CreationDate="2010-11-02T18:59:39.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All you really need is some fabric to repair the whole (nylon) and a cheap blue tarp. You can sew the nylon/tarp combination to the outside of the bag then use seam sealer on bot the outside and inside to cover the seam and make the stitches waterproof. Even better if you can place the seam sealer between the fabrics and stitch through it then apply it to the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T18:59:39.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1971" CreationDate="2010-11-02T19:33:48.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gave up trying to keep my panniers waterproof - they're cheapish ones I got over 15 years ago from MEC. I just stuff my clothes and other gear inside a plastic bag (I'm using the white kitchen garbage bags now). Bags last for months before wearing out (eventually, something pokes through) and work well enough to keep my stuff dry in hard, driving rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-24T21:31:44.683" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:31:44.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1971" CreationDate="2010-11-02T19:37:06.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reality is that panniers are very similar to camping equipment. You have, &quot;50% nylon and 50% polyester&quot;. So go to a camping store or online retailer and find a patch kit designed for that fabric combination. It may be included with the kit, but if not, you'll need a sealing compound to cover the patch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-11-02T19:44:20.247" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T19:44:20.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1971" CreationDate="2010-11-02T19:48:03.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tear-Aid is a great product that I use to repair drybags that I use on river trips in the Grand Canyon.  It is self-adhesive, durable, flexible, and waterproof.  Sticks to nearly anything.  River supply stores like NRS will carry it.  If you search the web for &quot;tear-aid&quot; you will find both the manufacturer's site and Amazon, which has it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this to repair bags that hold my down sleeping bag and keep it dry when it's lashed on top of a gear pile on a boat running the V-wave at Lava Falls.  The stuff works.  My sleeping bag has always been dry on four Canyon trips.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T19:48:03.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2010-11-02T19:54:30.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep.  Tire levers in the U.S.  Pedro's are the best.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T19:54:30.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1920" CreationDate="2010-11-02T20:56:45.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your frame aluminum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting that, due to the differing electrical properties of different materials, oxidation (rust on steel) will occur much more quickly when dissimilar metals are joined.  On an aluminum bike with steel hardware, electron transfer between the aluminum and the steel will encourage more-rapid-than-normal deterioration of the steel.  Aluminum will continue to look great--actually protected somewhat by the transfer of oxidation to the steel.  This isn't an uncommon issue.  The U.S. Navy just got done replacing an entire class of destroyers that were built with steel hulls and aluminum superstructures--it's a problem that we sometimes accept as a tradeoff.  It is, as other respondents have said, easy to just replace a few bolts every now and then.  Steel bolts are much stronger than aluminum bolts!  But the aluminum frame is plenty strong and is SO MUCH lighter than a steel one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rusting probably has little to do with the quality of your bike shop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T20:56:45.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1981" CreationDate="2010-11-02T23:06:09.983" Score="174" ViewCount="201873" Body="&lt;p&gt;I must confess, I don't know much about bikes.  Until fairly recently, a bike was just that thing that I rode to work each day.  I've been slowly learning more about bikes but I still have some newbie questions.  This is one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I recall correctly and have got the terminology correct, a fixed-gear bike is a bike with only one gear (so you can't change it) and no freewheel (so if the rear wheel is turning, so are the pedals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do people ride fixed-gear bikes?  Isn't it either hard to get started (if fixed in a high gear ratio) or hard to get to a good speed (if fixed in a low gear ratio)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not trying to insult or flame riders of fixed-gear bikes - I'm just curious! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="690" LastEditorUserId="690" LastEditDate="2010-11-05T11:39:22.680" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T06:29:25.390" Title="Why ride a fixed-gear bike?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="20" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="43" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-11-02T23:49:30.363" Score="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your understanding is correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why do people ride them?&lt;/strong&gt; Some random answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance is very, very low. You have to keep the tires and chain in good working order and, on a bike you ride on the road, hopefully some form of a brake. That's it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On most velodromes, you have to ride a fixed gear bike, so if you race track, you have no choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is something to be said for how a fixed gear will force you to develop a smoother pedaling style since you simply cannot stop. Due to this, they are somewhat popular for 'off season' training by serious road cyclists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Hesitating to mention this...) There is a certain segment of the population that loves retro and simple things. In addition to being possibly the most efficient people moving device that exists, the fixed gear bicycle can be an important fashion accessory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hard to get started/Hard to go fast?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Generally someone who has a road worthy fixie will have selected a gear that works well for the terrain and speed that they like to ride at. I've only ridden fixed gear bikes on the track, but I'd imagine for a city fixie, you'd optimize for a fairly low speed but someone who takes these more seriously can answer better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T23:49:30.363" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2010-11-02T23:55:22.073" Score="28" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Flip-Flop Hub&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most often seen on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/271#271&quot;&gt;fixed gear&lt;/a&gt; track (velodrome) bikes, a flip flop hub is hub that allows a cog to be attached to each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows a rider of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/271#271&quot;&gt;fixed gear&lt;/a&gt; bike to effectively 'change' gears by taking the rear wheel off, flipping it around and reattaching the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Track riders will use this to have a smaller (more teeth, fewer &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1863#1863&quot;&gt;gear inches&lt;/a&gt;) warmup gear that allows them to spin at a higher cadence and a larger (fewer teeth, more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1863#1863&quot;&gt;gear inches&lt;/a&gt;) cog for racing or high speed efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variations of flip-flop hubs might offer a freewheel in one direction and a fixed gear in the other, so a cyclist can convert the bike from a single-speed to a fixed gear bike by flipping the rear wheel around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unused cog is an additional hazard. Many velodromes require unused cogs to be removed. A collision involving a bike carrying an unused cog at the 2013 North America Harcourt Bicycle Polo Championships led to an amendment of the NAH ruleset to explicitly identify exposed unused cogs as a prohibited hazard. Players are permitted to carry an unused cog if it is covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a fixed-gear road cyclist, a flip-flop hub often is used to allow one side as a fixed gear, and the other side to freewheel. This way, a tired fixie rider can switch to freewheeling (possibly with a different ratio) and get home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flip-flop_hub&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flip-flop_hub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EaUdI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T06:57:40.947" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-02T23:55:22.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2041" CreationDate="2010-11-03T02:24:12.263" Score="46" ViewCount="239070" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question came up recently about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1980/why-ride-a-fixed-gear-bike&quot;&gt;why people ride fixed-gear bikes&lt;/a&gt;. I think you can't reasonably answer that question without first understanding why people ride &lt;strong&gt;single-speed&lt;/strong&gt; bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why do they do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2018-11-28T10:44:32.773" Title="Why ride a single-speed bike?" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="18" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-11-03T02:40:52.227" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixed-gear bikes, as compared to single-speed bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trackstands.&lt;/strong&gt; The ability to move the bike backwards with the pedals makes it possible to keep balanced while stopped. This is useful (while waiting for cross traffic, for example) and is a demonstration of the skill of the rider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes are optional&lt;/strong&gt;. You can apply back-pressure to the pedals to slow the bike gradually. Alternately, you can throw your weight forward (to unweight the back wheel), and apply very strong back pressure. Once the wheel is locked up, you skid to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also a safety issue, as you can't stop nearly as quickly without the benefit of a front brake (where most of braking happens on most bikes), and it depends heavily on the skill level of the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No brakes (or front brake only) simplifies the bike even further, compared to a single-speed bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Image and exclusivity.&lt;/strong&gt; Fixed-gear bikes are unusual, and not everyone can ride them. Heavy people with heavy loads in hilly areas are pretty much excluded. They require unique skills, and have an element of risk that repels most cyclists. In my area, they have been adopted by the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hipster_%28contemporary_subculture%29&quot;&gt;hipster&lt;/a&gt;&quot; subculture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fun and variety.&lt;/strong&gt; For someone who rides a conventional multi-speed bike the contrasting experience of riding a fixie can spice things up, keeping bikes interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T02:40:52.227" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2010-11-03T05:30:03.523" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode nothing but a single speed (as opposed to fixed gear) 24&quot; Bontrager Cruiser (like a big BMX) for approx 8 years and loved it.  Daily commute (~10-15Km round trip) and most other incidental/social travel.  I have only recently changed to a 8 speed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chargebikes.com/products/bikes/detail.php?id=26&quot;&gt;Charge Tap&lt;/a&gt; due to moving to a very hilly neighborhood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, the beauty of single speed is the simplicity.  &lt;em&gt;@Jay Bazuzi called it ; )&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No worrying about what gear I should be in.  Just stand up and pedal harder.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No worrying about gears slipping or being tuned properly.  Chain tight, done.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No worrying  about which brake lever to pull and how hard.  Only had one to choose from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also loved the feeling of being more 'connected' to the road than on a geared bike.  (I've never owned a fixie but I'm told they feel even more 'connected' than a single speed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And they look super-clean too.  A single brake lever/cable is the only 'external' element on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastEditorUserId="568" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T03:32:39.810" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T03:32:39.810" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-11-03T06:02:56.707" Score="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reasons I ride:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a direct feel of the road.  There is no slack going forward or backward before the &quot;catch&quot; on the chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No derailleur maintenance.  No clicking.  No wait on gear shifts.  No finding the right gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where I ride, it is completely flat, in and out of neighborhoods, constant speed changes.  I could shift gears all the time, or I could just ride one gear and absorb it with my legs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It puts me out of my comfort zone.  When I ride a regular road bike for fitness, the temptation is to pick the most efficient gear and go at the heart rate I can sustain for the distance I want to travel.  All efforts are pretty much identical.  With a fixie, the gear is picked and I must choose the effort expended to match the distance I'll travel.  I don't really ride it for fitness but I've found it puts me through paces I never went through on a regular road bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T06:02:56.707" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-11-03T09:09:18.473" Score="67" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's harder work than a normal free hub, your legs are constantly moving so there's no rest. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going up hills without having to think about gear selection forces you to think about optimisation of effort &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going down hills is hard, too - spinning your legs in a way you can rarely achieve on a free hub &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This constant movement translates to a much smoother rhythmic style of pedalling, which will have a beneficial effect on your free hub cadence&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are fewer components to maintain &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a consequence of the fewer components, the machine is lighter, so the experience &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; more responsive, which means you're able to maintain speed more easily. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traditionally fewer people knew how to ride them, so they were alleged to be less attractive to thieves. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In wet weather you can stop much more easily, brakes/rims are obviously variable, but braking using the fixed wheel drive train is not impeded by wet conditions &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to summarise in a single word: work. It's harder work, I expend more energy, I get more benefit from my training/commuting miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T12:11:27.657" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T12:11:27.657" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1995" CreationDate="2010-11-03T09:18:37.683" Score="16" ViewCount="3548" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once a week I take my bike to the local supermarket to do my shopping.  My panniers fill up really quickly and I always end up with bags on my handlebars (for UK people - the bags I'm talking about are the big blue Tescos reusable ones).  Even with a backpack thrown into the mix, I still need to carry at least one bag, usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there are plenty of easy solutions to the core problem (shop more often, take the bus, persuade a friend with a car to drive me there, etc) but let's look at the more fun side of things: what's the best way of getting a very large amount of shopping on my bike.  I have a rear rack so suggestions for really big (backpack sized, large shopping bag sized or bigger) panniers and rack boxes would be useful, but let's not limit it to just that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you do your shopping on your bike and have a similar problem, what do you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="690" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-11-04T19:59:21.507" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T13:01:49.917" Title="Really big panniers and other baggage" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2007" CreationDate="2010-11-03T09:25:27.740" Score="4" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently considering getting a Carradice Camper Longflap saddlebag as I've heard good things about it and like the idea of being able to carry a lot of stuff in a saddle bag.  Just one thing concerns me, and I haven't been able to find out that answer elsewhere:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a handle or something on the bag?  If not, is it easy to fit some sort of carrying mechanism, or is the bag meant to be just left on the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="690" LastEditorUserId="690" LastEditDate="2010-11-05T11:38:28.717" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:24:44.877" Title="Carrying a Carradice Camper Longflap when off the bike" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1879" CreationDate="2010-11-03T11:24:23.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/lake-cx-400-road-shoe-id36796.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/lake-cx-400-road-shoe-id36796.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the write-up for these, you can apparently place them in a conventional oven to make them pliable enough to be moulded to your foot shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine shoes of similar material/build quality will allow the same method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not cheap though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="715" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T11:24:23.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2010-11-03T11:33:04.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of converting my 18 speed 1989 Peugeot Sahara into a single speed. It's going to be a purely commuting bike, although it was originally intended as an &quot;ATB&quot; (the first incarnation of today's mountain bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with David, there is more of a connection to the road, a lot of that feeling being down to, I think, the slimmed down simlplicity of the bike - less tech between rider and road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are fitness benefits too with just having one gear, although I wouldn't want to take it on trips of any great length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="715" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T11:33:04.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2010-11-03T11:39:06.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you thought about attaching a trailer, such as this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kmsdirect.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;products_id=40&amp;amp;zenid=f65e60ef439a613706cd8d60ce3eaa51&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kmsdirect.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;products_id=40&amp;amp;zenid=f65e60ef439a613706cd8d60ce3eaa51&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="715" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T11:39:06.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2010-11-03T11:54:13.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take a look at photo shoots of professional DH/4X riders, you'll be surprised at how many of them use cling-film around their shoes/lower legs to keep them water tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of a ghetto fix, but if it's good enough for the pros...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="715" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T11:54:13.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2010-11-03T11:55:23.843" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do the supermarket run every week by bicycle - have done for about 7 years&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Family of four so I more or less fill a full size shopping trolley every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is made possible by a Christiana Trailer which is pretty much equivalent in load capacity to a shopping trolley:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6SIPb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Christiana Trailer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bike that is now dedicated to the role of towing this beastie (for the supermarket run and for the Saturday morning run to the Greengrocer and the Butcher). Would only give it up for an actual cargo bike/trike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="69" LastEditDate="2010-11-03T12:12:37.967" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T12:12:37.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2010-11-03T12:54:25.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just purchased a Karrimor waterproof jacket from Sports Direct. £20, reduced from £60. Best waterproof jacket I've had in a long time, no complaints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="715" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T12:54:25.030" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-17T07:35:47.500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2012" CreationDate="2010-11-03T12:57:11.757" Score="16" ViewCount="46422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have thought that a single gear was the same as a fixed gear, but that does not seem the case.  What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a fixed gear bike have more then one gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T18:07:25.633" Title="What is the difference between a “single-speed bike” and a “fixed-gear” bike?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1997" CreationDate="2010-11-03T13:02:43.753" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both have one gear, but a &quot;fixed&quot; requires you to constantly pedal as the back wheel turns, a &quot;singlespeed&quot; has a freewheel hub, ergo allowing you to freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="715" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T13:02:43.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2026" CreationDate="2010-11-03T13:03:56.190" Score="3" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a bike on a road in the UK, is it ever legal not to have separate brakes on the front and back wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T06:02:36.140" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T06:02:36.140" Title="Is it ever legal in the UK not to have two brakes on a bike?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2023" CreationDate="2010-11-03T13:04:58.420" Score="5" ViewCount="963" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a bike on a road in the USA, is it ever legal not to have separate brakes on the front and back wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T06:02:18.807" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T15:36:27.180" Title="Is it ever legal in the USA not to have two brakes on a bike?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;us&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2010-11-03T13:14:08.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All jackets have to do two jobs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop the water (rain) getting in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the water (sweat) get out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While being easy to transport when &lt;strong&gt;not in use&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;£70 is unlikely to buy you a jacket that works well doing both if you pay full price.  I would look out for a Paclite in a sale, as they are light and take up very little space on wqhen not in use.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However remember that the jacket is as much about keeping you warm &lt;strong&gt;when you stop for a break&lt;/strong&gt; as it is about keeping you dry while you cycle.  So maybe just have a wind proof top for when you are riding and a cheap none-breathable jacket for when you are resting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-17T07:35:18.233" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T07:35:18.233" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-17T07:35:47.500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2022" CreationDate="2010-11-03T13:17:14.337" Score="18" ViewCount="49418" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to be assumed you will not have any brakes on a fixed gear bike, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2010-11-03T23:18:50.577" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T03:12:57.247" Title="Why don’t fixed gear bikes have brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2010-11-03T13:51:26.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think they have the benefit of looking as good as a fixie, and being pretty much as light, without the need for all that silly pedalling downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="259" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T13:51:26.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2010-11-03T14:19:47.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why spoil the clean look of a lumberjack shirt, rolled up jeans and espadrilles with hideous cabling, calipers and pads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="715" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T14:19:47.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1999" CreationDate="2010-11-03T14:32:14.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not too sure on the legal standing on actually &lt;em&gt;using&lt;/em&gt; the bike on the road - I think it extends to retailers legally having to sell bikes with brakes, and a bell too I seem to remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="715" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T14:32:14.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2010-11-03T14:56:55.160" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is less expensive and it has less parts that can break and almost no fragile parts compared to bikes with more gears. This means: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can leave it outside in the rain without feeling guilty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will last for years with nearly no maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can park it outside a bar with a decent lock on it and it will still be there when I stagger out at the end of the evening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can park it in the bicycle chaos at the local train station and not mind the scratches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save for the occasional flat it always works&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said: If I lived anywhere where the were hills higher than the bridges over the canals I would probably never use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. I have something like this only mine is (and looks) about 30 years old (the frame anyway):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mg35Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;omafiets&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2018-11-17T22:27:57.313" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T22:27:57.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1990" CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:06:10.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two straps that attach the Carradice bag to the saddle will need to be re-threaded and buckled up each time you remove and re-attach the bag, so it's probably not the most convenient choice for your usage.  I remember seeing quick-release systems for these bags, but you'll have to check if they work for the massive Camper version.  There is no actual handle either, but I suppose you could rig one up between the two straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T15:06:10.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2000" CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:06:43.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't recall anything in the Ohio Revised Code that requires bikes to have any brakes.  I've never seen a single speed bike around here that had anything other than the standard rear coaster brake.  While that doesn't prove legality, the shops around here tend to be really picky about all the details (such as not wanting to sell/service bikes without sound making devices back when those were required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T15:06:43.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2000" CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:31:57.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends on the state&lt;/strong&gt;, and some states have bizarre wordings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example in Minnesota from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revisor.mn.gov/statutes/?id=169.222&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.revisor.mn.gov/statutes/?id=169.222&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(b) No person shall operate a bicycle unless it is equipped with a brake which will enable the operator to make the braked wheels skid on dry, level, clean pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's kind of hard to tell if this means one or two brakes is required. However, it is enforced that a single front brake is acceptable, yet skidding the front wheel is never a good thing, but not doing so doesn't mean the brake is not capable of safely stopping the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T15:31:57.767" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:38:07.093" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You surely must mean a fixed gear bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A freewheeling bike with no brakes is going to require you to stop via crashing, some sort of flinstones-esque maneuver, or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OH5W1Z23wPg&amp;amp;feature=related&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot; ted shred&quot;&gt;ted shred&lt;/a&gt; move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fixed gear bike can be ridden marginally safely because the pedals are locked to the rear wheel in both directions, so locking up your legs can slow down the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People do that because they believe it gives them a better connection and feel with the road, a more 'zen' riding experience, and that the bike has better looks. Fixed gear bikes are ridden in track racing with no brakes, and so the track bike origin is part of why people ride them on the street with no brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are still many people who have brakes on fixed gear bikes. I have a fixed gear, but I have brakes on it because I prefer to stop quickly and safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People that ride coasting bikes with no brakes are insane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, this excludes coaster braked bikes, which have a brake built in the hub, common on bikes for small children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-05-20T03:12:57.247" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T03:12:57.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1997" CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:43:52.780" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;A single speed bike has a single speed freewheel threaded onto the rear hub. The freewheel allows the rider to coast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fixed gear has a single cog threaded on the rear hub, along with a reverse threaded lockring, to prevent the cog from getting loose. The cog has no freewheeling action, so any time the wheel is moving, the pedals are moving too. This setup allows the rider to even ride backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, fixed gear bikes have only a single gear. There are some setups however where instead of a single gear at the rear a special &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog/&quot;&gt;dingle&lt;/a&gt; with two cogs is placed in, and a pair of chainrings is up front, and the tooth difference between the chainrings is the same as the tooth difference in the cogs. Then, the rider can change gears for different riding, however it requires dismounting, loosening the rear wheel, and manually moving the chain from one set of cogs to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some 3 speeds or other internally geared hubs that have been owner modified to be multi-speed fixed hubs, but they are very, very rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T15:43:52.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2010-11-03T18:28:36.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you only need one gear when it's the perfect ratio (44/16).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T18:28:36.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2055" CreationDate="2010-11-03T18:54:22.653" Score="14" ViewCount="1864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Shimano cycling sandals during the summer months here in the Chicago, Illinois area.  I'm wondering if I can use these during the cold winter months also or if different shoes are required.  In favor of continuing to use the sandals, I could add SealSkinz and/or wool sock layers as the sandals are expandable.  Other than looking strange in the winter, are there problems with doing this?  What other winter cycling footwear should be considered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="718" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T16:22:20.327" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T05:47:39.570" Title="Sandals in the winter? Other winter footwear options?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2010-11-03T19:16:36.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very large basket made by Wald on the front of my bike in addition to the rack and panniers that you mention.  The Giant Delivery Basket made by Wald (model 157b) is large enough to accomodate four to six shopping bags in addition to what I can fit into my panniers.  I can haul a lot of groceries this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I saw your post, I thought of this idea and also of possibly mounting a rack which will accept additional panniers to the FRONT of your bike.  I once had a setup like this, mounting a second rack to the front so I could carry four panniers.  It's another idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A caveat, though, is that anything you attach to the front of the bike will affect steering.  When that Giant basket I mentioned is full of fruit... the momentum of the groceries force you to THINK about steering quite deliberately!  The Giant basket is heavy enough to affect steering even when empty--this is not a setup you would want to carry up and down a full flight of stairs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trailers are the best option--because they keep the weight low and offer the most storage space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I must agree with an earlier comment... no matter how many bags or baskets I take, I tend to fill them with a loaf of bread to spare!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T19:16:36.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2018" CreationDate="2010-11-03T19:34:41.827" Score="3" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on the verge of buying a RockShox Tora fork for my bike, and plan to use them with Hope Mono Mini M4 brakes.  I'm stumped as to what mounting to buy for these, how do you guys find out this information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/rockshox-tora-tk-suspension-fork-with-poploc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RockShox Tora TK Suspension Fork with PopLoc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/brakes/disc-brake-system/hope/mono-m4/PRD_363946_1507crx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hope Mono M4 Mini&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T03:14:09.347" Title="RockShox Tora TK mountings for Hope Mini M4" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2014" CreationDate="2010-11-03T23:57:21.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done the sandals and socks through the winter, living in Minnesota. I usually would wear 3 layers of wool socks. When it was wet, I'd put a plastic bag between the outermost sock and the next one in. It worked very well and my feet were never cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are companies that make specialized products for the socks with sandals in the wintertime though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You sure do look kinda funny when you do that though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T23:57:21.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2016" CreationDate="2010-11-04T00:08:57.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need to know is the type of mounting you have on your fork and on your brakes to know what adaptor you need to get. There are IS (so-called international standard, used by Hope and Formula, among others), Post (used by Rockshox, Marzocchi for forks and Avid, Hayes for brakes, among others) and some manufacturer and/or fork specific mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the link you provided, the fork has Post mounts. (From the description: &lt;em&gt;Lower tubes: Magnesium, Post-disc mount&lt;/em&gt;). Hope uses IS mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need a Front IS to Post adaptor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=13735&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See this for an example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of your disc is another important thing to know, since you might need a bigger adaptor for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-11-04T03:14:09.347" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T03:14:09.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2021" CreationDate="2010-11-04T00:33:33.783" Score="5" ViewCount="7652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to do a century ride in the near future, does anyone have any suggestions on what to do in the week leading up to the ride (besides training - duh). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking inspecting your bike, carbo loading, etc?  What to eat? How to sleep? Should I be riding at all? etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="723" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T21:05:36.787" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T21:05:36.787" Title="what to do during the week before a century?" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;century&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2019" CreationDate="2010-11-04T01:48:32.520" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you get plenty of sleep, eat about normally, and ride less -- mostly just enough to stretch your legs, with &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; one semi-hard ride to tire you out somewhat. If you do that, do it early in the week though, so the last few days before the century you can take it easy and be fully recovered by the day of the big ride. Ideally you'd have done something like a 60-70 mile ride a couple weeks before hand, but the last week is really a bit late for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the bike goes, my advice is to inspect it, but resist the urge to &quot;fiddle&quot; with things -- if you see something that's really &lt;em&gt;wrong&lt;/em&gt;, fix it, but otherwise leave it alone. In particular, do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; change any adjustments in the hope of making things a bit better -- you're better off with the bike adjusted as you're accustomed to it, than deciding that maybe you'd be just a tiny bit better with the seat raised and the handlebars dropped a bit (or whatever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T01:48:32.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2019" CreationDate="2010-11-04T03:05:12.837" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to do:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eat well, but don't overdo it.  A hearty meal the night before and a solid breakfast the morning of the ride are a must.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stay well-hydrated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get plenty of sleep.  If you've been burning the midnight oil lately, cut back on your riding and catch more z's.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feel free to ride, but go for less distance and intensity than you normally would.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lube your chain (and clean if needed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your tires for any debris like glass or wire that might work it's way through during the ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top up the air in your tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that your brakes still work properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What &lt;em&gt;NOT&lt;/em&gt; to do:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any high-intensity rides or workouts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;another century (disregard if you normally do centuries on a regular basis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;major mechanical changes to the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any bike fit adjustments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy new shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Assuming you've got the base training in already, of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T03:05:12.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2010-11-04T05:43:22.310" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason is historical.  Fixed gear bikes have been traditionally used for track racing, long after most other bikes had switched to using freewheels.  In the high-speed velodrome environment, it would be dangerous if the rider in front of you could brake suddenly:  you would crash into them, and likely most of the group behind you would join in the fun (this is also true in a paceline or peloton on normal roads).  So brakes have always been banned, and aren't really needed on the track anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But track bikes sometimes get retired to road use.  And as fixed gear has gotten more popular, many frame makers are building similar bikes for the road.  Some of them are closer to track bikes (no brakes), others might include front brakes or both front and rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T05:43:22.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2000" CreationDate="2010-11-04T09:05:34.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many places have adopted the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ohiobike.org/NCUTLO/uvc12-7.htm&quot;&gt;Uniform Vehicle Code language&lt;/a&gt;.  It currently states:&#xA;&lt;Blockquote&gt; 12-706. Brake required Every bicycle shall be equipped with a brake or brakes which will enable its driver to stop the bicycle within 25 feet from a speed of 10 miles per hour on dry, level, clean pavement. (FORMER 11-1207(c)).&lt;/Blockquote&gt;&#xA;The goal of the UVC is to have consistent laws between states, counties, and municipalities.  It doesn't entirely work - often the process of changing the laws is too complicated, so many outdated variations exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2006, Portland, Oregon saw an interesting challenge a similarly-worded law.  A cyclist was cited for failure to have two brakes, even though the fixed gear on their bicycle allowed them to meet the requirements of the statute.  (Ridiculously, the previous UVC phrasing that the ORS statute is based on doesn't even require the ability to &lt;em&gt;stop&lt;/em&gt;, only the ability to &lt;em&gt;skid&lt;/em&gt;.)  The judge and ticketing officer's contention was that a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeportland.org/2006/07/28/judge-finds-fault-with-fixies-1727&quot;&gt;brake must be a separate device&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meeting the UVC phrasing is your best bet for a US-wide policy, but definitely review the local statutes for the places you will be riding if you are concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T09:05:34.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2019" CreationDate="2010-11-04T12:20:36.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on what you're normally used to and what your aim for the century is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a century is a big deal for you (that isn't meant to be patronising) I would think that your training schedule will have been slowly building up the miles over the previous few months, throwing in occasional shorter and sharper rides for a bit of variety (&lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; underestimate the importance of speed work while building up your endurance). Your last longer ride will have been 60-70 miles a couple of weeks before, probably with 40-50 the previous weekend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your body will adapt gradually to incremental additions and will keep hold of the new abilities for a while. Don't be afraid to do nothing in the week before if that's what you feel like, you won't lose all ability (even stopping your bike commute if you do that), but utterly resist the temptation to cram in any sessions you feel like you've missed. As others have said, it's too late to fix your training schedule now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many sports there's a saying that a start to a race won't win it for you, but it can surely lose it for you if it's bad enough, and this goes as well for the week before a long event. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice, especially if it's your first century, is to rest well, eat well, hydrate well. Try and do a short-ish ride (25-30 miles) a few days before, at the very least to make sure your bike is ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And never, ever, do something new and untested to your equipment on race day: that includes new shoes, new shirt, new power bars, even new bar tape. You might get away with a new bottle, that's about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T12:20:36.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2010-11-04T12:36:25.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about that assumption, while you can ride a fixed without brakes and use solely pedal pressure, I wouldn't want to rely on it on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Track bikes don't have brakes and historically fixies came from the track. My fixed has both front and rear (although I don't use the rear much as it chews through pads) and while I can brake reasonably well with just the pedals, through in the front brake too and I can stop on a sixpence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, in the UK to be strictly road-legal you must have at least one brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T12:36:25.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1999" CreationDate="2010-11-04T12:42:37.513" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. A fixed wheel does not need two, it needs only one (on the non-fixed, presumably the front, wheel). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two separate and independent bracking systems, one per wheel, are required, but as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=4073&quot;&gt;CTC&lt;/a&gt; say &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Apart from saying that a brake that&#xA;  acts directly on a pneumatic tyre&#xA;  shall not be deemed to be in efficient&#xA;  working order, these regulations do&#xA;  not define how the brakes are operated&#xA;  (by hands, feet or maybe even the&#xA;  teeth?) or how they work. A lot of&#xA;  words are nevertheless devoted to&#xA;  wheels that cannot rotate&#xA;  independently of the pedals (i.e. no&#xA;  freewheel), the effect of which is&#xA;  that a fixed wheel drive counts as a&#xA;  braking system – on that wheel or&#xA;  wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that, when sold, European regulations dictate that it should be left-hand rear, right-hand front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T12:42:37.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2010-11-04T14:44:22.527" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A track bike has no brakes because braking would cause a pile up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a fixie on the road has no brakes it is because someone is being macho.  They will insist they can stop just as quickly or they can always see the road and path ahead.  The former being easily disproven and the latter generally being optimistic.  There seems to be a fair overlap with the same crowd that shuns helmets in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a fixie with two brakes (rear rarely used).  The bike store near me sells fixed gear bikes set up for both track (no brakes, swept handlebars so as not to catch) and for road (with brakes and regular handlebars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T14:44:22.527" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2039" CreationDate="2010-11-04T16:28:47.053" Score="16" ViewCount="26985" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from just knowing &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/170/21&quot;&gt;the best time to make the purchase of your bike&lt;/a&gt;, what other specific tactics can I make use of in negotiating price on a bike? For instance, what devalues a bike &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/743/21&quot;&gt;aside from just wear and tear&lt;/a&gt;, and how can I use these to get a better price on a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:&#xA;I appreciate all the comments about LBS and local patronage of merchants is something we can all support. However, like going to buy a car, there are always things to know about a product that (when negotiating) play in the favor of merchants (overvalues the car: like when you had to get on a waiting list to get a Prius) and in the favor of buyers (devalues: when you had to be wary of your gas pedal buying a Prius). This is a question to benefit buyers of bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T21:10:58.680" Title="How should I negotiate price with bicycle salespeople?" Tags="&lt;price&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;lbs&gt;" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2034" CreationDate="2010-11-04T17:43:44.353" Score="14" ViewCount="19673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with an incredibly bent frame. The bike itself I have tried to replace with other inexpensive bixes, but this one just had a certain &lt;strong&gt;geometry&lt;/strong&gt; that I keep wanting to resurrect it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://velospace.org/node/22761&quot;&gt;It is one of those give-away Schwinn Firenze GL 5000 road bikes from the 80's&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I continue trying to find a replacement as I am sure it will be cheaper (and the bike holds no sentimental value aside from the quality of ride); but for the sake of reference, how much would it cost to get a bike frame bent back into shape? I think this frame was likely an lightweight steel one, but referencing aluminum &amp;amp; carbon prices would be appreciated, too. (I don't know if it's even a viable solution, but wanted to at least crush the hope if it wasn't.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T08:56:39.433" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T08:56:39.433" Title="Repairing a bent bike frame, is it worth it?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2010-11-04T17:50:31.180" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, your best bet is to just build a very good relationship with your LBS.  Once they know you well enough, they're likely to just make you a good offer to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This isn't advocating building the relationship for the discounts, but they are a nice side effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T17:50:31.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2010-11-04T18:21:52.083" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're buying from your LBS then I would think twice, yes they're making a profit on that shiny bike, but is a few quid/dollars/euros/pesos off the sticker worth endangering them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I frequent my LBS because the guys in there know me, they've sold me the last half dozen bikes I've bought, so when I come in, we chat, they fit my service and work in even though their diary is full, sometimes they make me coffee, and yes sometimes they'll round the bill down or throw in something for free, but no amount of discount is worth them endangering their business and them not being there in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they save me money in other ways, their advice over what to buy, that I don't need to go for the next model up, that certain things last longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no excuse in wasting money unnecessarily, but automatically assuming that all retailers are sleeping on beds of cash and can be fought down isn't going to help keep that friendly local store alive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it overpriced? Shouldn't you be on the look out for a right-priced, once all the factors have been considered? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T18:21:52.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2010-11-04T18:31:42.070" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worked retail at an LBS and at various other outdoor stores. Even if you come in politely and ask for a discount the fact is that the other 2 guys that did it that day were rude and pushy about it so it's unlikely that we're in any good mood at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're happy to give discounts to the people that are nice bring donuts by, just come and talk in a friendly manner. We even know what we paid for stuff and can direct you to the stuff that we know can be discounted without making the boss nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always got discounts at any outdoor store (even first time) by being nice and accommodating staff. That includes telling them to go help other customers if I'm deciding on stuff. Patiently waiting for them to get back to me and just being easy going. Talking about what they ride and where.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting discounts is about building a long term relationship not about haggling one day. Even if they give you a discount that day they're not inclined to point you to the stuff that they can discount on a regular basis. You traded a small discount on one day for a savings that could be paying off for years to come. Heck people who came in regularly will even get employee pricing off and on because we like to see you. You're the type of customer we want so we encourage you to come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T18:31:42.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2010-11-04T18:34:05.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Longaberger (the American basket company) makes &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&amp;amp;item=310267259190&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;enormous backpack style baskets (The Tour With Me)&lt;/a&gt;. I don't sell them and think they're a bit hideous looking; but for sheer volume carrying it would make for a decent alternative to standard backpacks and panniers. I have seen one that was approximately the size of a 5'8&quot; woman's torso and neck (it went from her belt to about the bottom of her ears, and she rides a bike downtown comfortably enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H02YH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T18:34:05.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2029" CreationDate="2010-11-04T19:14:17.333" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its &quot;incredibly bent&quot; then the answer is no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing a tube on a typical lugged steel frame will run you a couple hundred dollars from a good frame builder. It goes up from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T19:14:17.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2029" CreationDate="2010-11-04T20:21:29.133" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if the frame is repairable, you should consider the forces that it experienced which led to its bending in the first place.  Steel--and these Firenze frames were steel, Chromo-oly, I think--will accept a fair bit of abuse and isn't as prone to catastrophic failure as aluminum.  I have had steel frames break, though--and it always happens at some point where the metal was stressed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this bike has been through the wringer enough to bend it &quot;incredibly&quot;, then even if you fixed it, the problems would not end there.  One day, you'll ride along an notice a new sway in the frame if your lucky... then you'll notice that the downtube is cracking at the shifter braze-ons.  Or maybe you'll hear a squeek and notice that one of the seatstays has detached itself from the seattube... there are just too many variables for it to be WORTH what it would cost to even replace a tube as whatsisname reasonably suggested.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bikes were giveaways.  If it fits you well, you know what you are looking for.  Measure the bike so you know what size it is, and start hunting on ebay and on www.bicyclebunker.com for your new ride!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At bicyclebunker, you can find pretty much whatever you want.  You just have to negotiate with a seller on shipping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get rid of that thing or make it into an art-piece!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T20:21:29.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2010-11-04T20:32:39.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other answers with regard to LBS.  Many of them are doing their best to provide bicycle services and aren't making a mint doing it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't a filthy-rich business and it doesn't make sense for most of them to sell used bikes.  If THAT's what you'r looking for...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking at a bike from a garage sale, Ebay or Craigslist seller, be sure to look at the components and not just the frame.  The frame, saddle, and shiny bits will certainly catch your eye first.  Shiny doesn't necessarily make value.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ANSWER to your question is to KNOW YOUR PRODUCT.  Research bikes and figure out what it is you want and know what the fair market value is.  Many private sellers have only a vague notion of what their bike is worth and may ask some percentage of what they paid for it twenty years ago.  The bike may or may not be worth that now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a Schwinn Paramount, it's probably worth somewhat more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get to know components groups and what levels of quality they represent.  Sheldon Brown's website is a great resource to browse before going shopping for 80's road bikes.  If you know 600 and Ultegra are the same thing in terms of quality (and good) vs Shimano 2300 which is worth its weight in guano... you can start to get an idea what you're looking at.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was the quality of the components new?  What is their condition now?  Will you have to replace the derailleur just to make the bike shift through its whole gear range?  This is an added cost for a buyer.  Are the brand-new tires covering up some ancient no-name steel rims that are going to cost you $200 to replace?  That's something to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure out what the bike you want is worth.  NOT what you WANT to pay.  What is it WORTH reasonably in the condition you want with the components you want... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not cool to lowball people or try to weasel them out of their bike.  That's a couple steps above theft.  It IS cool to know bikes and know what you're dealing with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T20:32:39.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2010-11-04T22:38:29.353" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't expect much until you know the guys that work at a bike shop. I bought my first road bike (a single speed) from my not-so-local LBS because it was on sale (45 miles from my house, with &lt;em&gt;several&lt;/em&gt; bike shops in between). In the process, I discovered that I got along well with the guys that work there. In return for our growing relationship, they started giving me pointers about maintenance, and discounts on accessories (computer, bar tape, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I referred my father-in-law to them to get a bike (he's a doctor and doesn't have the same price constraints that I do) they gave him a pretty good deal because I sent him. I have no doubt that when I've saved my pennies enough to budget for a new bike I'll get as good a deal as they can offer me, &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; having to ask for a deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bike shop employees and owners could make a lot more money doing something else, but own/work at a bike shop because they love cycling. I appreciated the desire to stretch your dollars as far as they'll go, but nobody is entitled to special deals without earning them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T22:38:29.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2010-11-04T22:41:39.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fixed gear bike has brakes. And I wear a helmet when riding it. And I don't listen to my iPod while on the bike. I'm the new non-conformist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T22:41:39.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2010-11-04T22:54:46.947" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a single-speed (as opposed to fixed gear) because I like to be able to coast down a hill without worrying about spinning out, or hitting a pot-hole while frantically trying to keep up with my pedals. Don't get me wrong, I love riding fixed-gear, but for where I live it's just a little impractical to not be able to coast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a single-speed (as opposed to a geared bike) for multiple reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: It's all I could afford. If you only have $600, you'll get a lot more bike with a single-speed than a geared bike.  Or rather, you'll get a lighter bike with better hubs/wheels/etc than for a $600 geared bike. Someday I'll have the money for a decent road bike (105/Rival or better) and will buy one. But for now, my single-speed is much lighter and sturdier than any $600 geared road bike I could have gotten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B: I enjoy the simplicity. Want to go faster? Pedal faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C: I enjoy the workout. I live in Utah, where there are some pretty big hills/mountains. The only way to get to the top is to (as my dad used to say) hunker down and gut it out. There's something quite invigorating about knowing you conquered that hill with the power in your legs instead of the mechanical advantage of your gear ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D: Even on the freewheel side of my hub, my single-speed is &lt;em&gt;quiet&lt;/em&gt;. No gears means that unless I'm coasting, my bike is nearly silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T22:54:46.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-04T23:22:07.463" Score="8" ViewCount="18097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen triathalon setups with either 650c or 700c wheels. What are the pros and cons behind both wheel sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="723" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T13:30:11.967" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T05:00:48.667" Title="Difference between 650c and 700c wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;&lt;650b&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2042" CreationDate="2010-11-04T23:45:04.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the USA and mostly ride on 700's so that is the angle from which I see this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700C wheels are larger and will require slighty less energy to make them go round and round.  If you have a really small frame (like an XS), though, these 700's may be large enough to cause toe overlap.  In this case, you're hitting your toes on the tires when going around corners.  Not good.  Smaller frames often have 650 wheels for this reason and also because the smaller wheel allows a slightly lower stand-over height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700C wheels are the most common size road wheels in the USA.  Elsewhere, my understanding is that 650's are more common.  Some touring bikes will have 650's even in larger size frames for this reason--if you need a new tire in Romania, it may be eaisier to find 650's than 700's.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real cons of the 650 is that they are less common in the States and are slightly smaller and therefore not quite as fast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing Tri and you are doing it just in the USA... I think that 700's are the way to go.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T23:45:04.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2010-11-05T06:19:38.147" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;From someone who worked in retail for years:  &lt;em&gt;If you have to ask for a discount, you don't deserve one&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shops know what gear is worth and price it accordingly.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discounts are usually given to loyal customer (I'm talking years loyal) who the shop staff enjoy speaking to, dealing with and would like to keep them happy so they continue to shop there.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're cranky, unlikeable, pushy or aggressive there is &lt;em&gt;no chance&lt;/em&gt;  you're getting a discount because the staff would probably be glad if you never came back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harsh but true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastEditorUserId="568" LastEditDate="2010-11-07T22:36:14.447" LastActivityDate="2010-11-07T22:36:14.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-11-05T12:48:04.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It gives you something to do at stop lights; standing on the pedals and trying to keep your balance also gives you some nice torque when it turns green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T12:48:04.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2049" CreationDate="2010-11-05T16:33:15.863" Score="12" ViewCount="169349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to install a front wheel on a bike - the axle of the wheel is threaded, but I'm having trouble finding out what size thread it is, and what nut can go on this. The size of the thread on the axle is the same as an 8 mm screw, but a standard M8 nut (with 13 mm hex) does not fit on it. Do bikes have some special kind of nut there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I look at the thread, and at a standard M8 screw, the thread on the bike axle is a bit more dense then on the screw, but I am not aware of existence of two kinds of M8 nuts, so far every M8 nut I've seen fits every M8 screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="670" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T22:25:05.023" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T11:18:31.933" Title="What size are the nuts holding the front wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2042" CreationDate="2010-11-05T16:51:08.033" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are primarily used for high-performance road bikes for smaller riders. There comes a point where a proper fitting frame for a smaller rider will have strange handling using 700c wheels. 650c wheels are designed to address that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller riders can also have road bikes built with 26&quot; wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are of average height there is no significant advantage to 650c wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T16:51:08.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2047" CreationDate="2010-11-05T16:52:39.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a wide variety of axle diameters and threading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a spiffy table here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/basic-thread-concepts#article-section-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of common bicycle thread sizes&lt;/a&gt; from Park Tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: while it's probably too much to include the whole table, the ø8mm sizes are reproduced below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8mm x 1mm     Square-type crank bolts, front solid axle hubs, suspension system hardware&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8mm x 1.25mm  Stem hardware, stud type crank nuts, suspension hardware&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8mm x 0.75mm  Chainring bolt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW 8x1.25 is the (coarse) default for M8, but 8x1 and even 8x0.75 are allowed as the &amp;quot;fine&amp;quot; pitches by ISO 262.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, 8x1 isn't exclusive to bike use or non-standard, it's just less common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T13:59:35.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2052" CreationDate="2010-11-05T17:39:55.090" Score="7" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen it &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2042/difference-between-650c-and-700c-wheels/2044#2044&quot;&gt;mentioned&lt;/a&gt; that larger wheels are easier to turn - is that actually the case?  How would that work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I see it, larger wheels will have more &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Introduction_to_angular_momentum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;angular momentum&lt;/a&gt;, meaning they'll take more energy to &lt;em&gt;start&lt;/em&gt; turning, but while spinning, will be easier to keep at the same speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:38:40.417" Title="Larger wheels - easier to turn?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2010-11-05T18:05:18.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It mostly has to do with gearing.  Imagine we have a big wheel of 26 inches and a small wheel of 10 inches.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 10 inch wheel will have a circumference of 31 inches.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 26 inch wheel will have a circumference of 163 inches.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that to travel 163 inches the big wheel will need to spin once and the smaller wheel will need to spin 5 times.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to put this is that the bearing on the smaller wheel will need to travel a distance 5x further than the bearing on the larger wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My physics is too rusty to calculate the force of friction from the bearing but &lt;a href=&quot;http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/1908/physics&quot;&gt;physics public beta&lt;/a&gt; opens in 4 days we should ask them.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T18:05:18.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2010-11-05T18:05:46.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Larger wheels have lower effective rolling resistance.  That is, they roll over obstacles more easily and smoothly because the larger diameter doesn't allow them to fall into gaps as easily.  Which means on actual roads you'll roll more easily with a larger wheel.  Everything else is much smaller differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think the angular momentum may work out about the same: at the same speed, a bigger wheel will have a lower rpm than a smaller wheel.  And the ratio of the difference in rotation speed is the same as the ratio of the the angular momentum.  To put it another way: I'm too lazy to work out all the math, but I think the angular momentum cancels out and you get the same linear momentum regardless of wheel size. (and having the same linear momentum is an intuitive result. If you're going 15mph, relative to you the bottom of the wheel is going 15mph back, the top 15mph forward, the front 15mph down, the back 15mph up.  Relative to the road it's 0, 15, 15 and 30. All independent of wheel size)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constructing a larger wheel will generally require slightly more mass and might therefore slow your acceleration slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, all else being equal, a larger wheel is geared higher and may give you a higher top speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T18:05:46.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2014" CreationDate="2010-11-06T17:13:05.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried it myself, but according to the quite informative &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org/Clothing/footwear.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ICEBIKE website&lt;/a&gt;, sandals with layers of socks, including breathable waterproof ones, works quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are a number of cyclists, not always in the coldest of climates, but plenty chilly never the less, that swear by SPD Sandals, either from Shimano, or those pictured at right from Lake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's this, you say, are they Daft?   Not at all.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sandals adopt quickly to the addition of another layer of socks, Gore-Tex Oversocks, or neoprene booties.  When out in the cold wet, you won't have wet shoes, as no water accumulates, it all runs off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I just wear boots, and use toe clips or bare platforms depending on the size of the boots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastActivityDate="2010-11-06T17:13:05.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2014" CreationDate="2010-11-07T02:45:54.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I go through 3 different types of shoes as the seasons change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot (80F+): sandals &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variable (30-80F): indoor soccer shoes (eg adidas sambas) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold (30F-): light hiking boots/trail running shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cold weather, you not only need to be comfortable while pedaling &lt;em&gt;on&lt;/em&gt; your bike, but also confident &lt;em&gt;off&lt;/em&gt; your bike. Lightweight hiking boots, with windproofing, waterproofing, and breathable layers, not only keep your feet happy while pealing but also let you feel like a mountain goat when you put your foot down in the slush at a stop light, or dismount on top of ice, or have to portage down wet stairs. Trail running shoes with these attributes are also a great choice if you want something even lighter and without the additional ankle support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others mention, wool/smartwool socks and switching to platform/toe clip/half-clips on your pedals are both good changes in addition to changing up your footwear. My winter setup is smartwool socks, size 13 light hiking boots from North Face and Velo Orange half-clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="735" LastActivityDate="2010-11-07T02:45:54.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2057" CreationDate="2010-11-07T03:07:24.513" Score="9" ViewCount="1129" Body="&lt;p&gt;What makes a mixte frame? Further, what's the etymology of 'mixte'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="735" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T16:16:20.607" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T16:16:20.607" Title="What's the definition of a Mixte?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;reference&gt;&lt;mixte&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2056" CreationDate="2010-11-07T04:04:44.830" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mixte is a step-through (low top tube or &quot;ladies&quot;) frame with 3 sets of stays instead of the usual 2.  The usual is that the middle set of stays run all the way to the head tube replacing the top tube, but there's some where the top tube is still a normal single tube.  The traditional mixte has those axle-to-head stays straight, but I've seen designs where they're bent to give an even lower standover height.  They still retain the usual chain stays and seat stays. This design keeps the frame strong and doesn't require a longer seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the word itself comes from french and means &quot;mixed&quot; as in &quot;mix of women's and men's styles&quot; or maybe even &quot;unisex&quot;.  Anybody around here speak french?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_m.html#mixte&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_m.html#mixte&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Step-through_frame#Mixte&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Step-through_frame#Mixte&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-11-07T04:04:44.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2010-11-07T06:46:13.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had a single speed instead of fixed gear, I could do one thing that I really miss:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bunny hop a curb.  That's something I've had to do more than once on a regular road bike just to avoid cars and it's something I do all the time on a variety of bikes just for convenience.  For the life of me, I can't do it at more than a crawl with a fixie.   I can shift weight over a pothole or the like, that's not too bad, but getting airborne is impossible for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Fixie keeps me off some of the types of locations I rode all the time in college: extensive sidewalks, railroad tracks, potholes, etc...   Not a problem where I live, but it would have been years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-11-07T06:46:13.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2010-11-08T01:07:51.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the LBS works a lot like most other shops.  They don't make a lot selling you a whole bike, but they sell accessories with a much bigger margin.  When I bought my bike, they didn't take anything off the price of the bike.  But they gave me a good discount on all the accessories I bought along with it (helmet, lock, lights, free water bottle and cage, etc.).  Try to shop around and see what other retailers are selling the same/similar bikes for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T01:07:51.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-11-08T14:21:05.100" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ride nothing but a fixed-gear bike for 3 months, then get back on a standard geared/freewheel'd bike. After you get over the initial shock of being able to coast and backpedal, you'll feel like friggin' Superman. Riding a fixie turns your legs into tree trunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T14:21:05.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2068" CreationDate="2010-11-08T18:28:02.753" Score="8" ViewCount="3234" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's ignore the question, for a moment, of &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; I install a lock mount on my new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/tcr.advanced.sl.3/3871/36659/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TCR Advanced&lt;/a&gt;.  But assume that I want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the frame is carbon fiber, should I be worried about the forces the mount clamp will apply to it?  Should I be worried about the (perhaps unusual/unplanned) stresses the lock and mount will apply to the seat tube while I'm riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we take it as a given that I &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to have my lock mounted on the bike (and not in my bag), is there a better suggestion on how to do so than to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://catalog.alamedabicycle.com/product/kryptonite-ez-mount-bracket-kit-sku-lk3020-qc53.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; on the seat tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T02:29:59.803" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T23:19:38.920" Title="Installing a lock mount on a carbon fiber frame" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:50:54.893" Score="8" ViewCount="1051" Body="&lt;p&gt;The (road) bike I bought 25 years ago is very similar to my current bike. (The derailleur on my new bike adjusts exactly the same way). The materials of my current bike are vastly different than the old one. Other than that it's all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are upcoming bicycle innovations, and if so what?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Considering the comments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last week cruising through a bike shop, I saw a carbon fiber chain. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have not seen any sort of radical shifting system lately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-11-23T19:08:51.970" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T19:08:51.970" Title="Bicycle innovations in the pipeline?" Tags="&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-10T15:07:49.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:01:50.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dynamicbicycles.com/chainless/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;drive shaft&lt;/a&gt; bike available.  Heck there is even a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaft-driven_bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; entry on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never tried riding one.  But the thing about bicycles is they are pretty darn good, as currently designed.  Brake innovations have come and gone (things like disc brakes on MTB's).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure there are more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T03:01:50.827" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-10T15:07:49.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:56:06.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think current trends in simpler bikes with cleaner lines might help popularize (thus bringing the price down) wide-range internal gear hubs like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rohloff_Speedhub&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rohloff hub&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my wish list would be more focus on comfort (consider the timelessness of the Brooks saddle combined with newer materials/design) and reliability (could we get puncture-resistant tires that don't have so much rolling resistance please?).  Too much focus is currently on weight and aerodynamics -- which makes sense given that pro racing typically drives innovation, but doesn't help the average cyclist much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T04:56:06.537" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-10T15:07:49.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2061" CreationDate="2010-11-09T05:04:20.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've mounted lights with similar clamps on carbon forks with no ill effect (just have to be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; careful not to over-tighten the clamp) but a lock -- which is heavy -- might put a too much torque on such a small clamp.  Maybe if you could spread out the area over which the clamp attaches to the frame then it might be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about attaching the U-lock behind the seat?  Hang two loops (tie wraps, wire, string, etc.) from the seat rails and pass the straight portion of the lock through them.  Then secure the bottom of the &quot;U&quot; to the back of the seat post with a velcro strap (put some padding between the lock and the frame so that the lock doesn't bounce and scrape the seat post up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T05:04:20.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2010-11-09T12:55:01.697" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Folding bikes are getting better and there is still a long way to go in finding the best folding system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low maintenance is important for a lot of people, so better fully enclosed gears, chains and brakes are important to get normal people cycling, likewise with puncture-resistant tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It must be possible to come up with better locking/tracking systems.&#xA;There have been lots of advances in practical light systems over the last few years, this will continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However all the above must be cheap enough that they come as standard on a “cheap” bike brought from the local supermarket; otherwise they don’t have any effect in the “real world”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the biggest need for innovations being aimed at people who see a bike as a transport solution, rather then an object to worship.  However most innovations are created by and for people that love bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My wife can own and drive a car, while knowing nothing about how a car works; she just has to book it into the garage once a year when they send her a reminder [or a &quot;error&quot; light comes on].   How can bike be made as easy to use and own?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T12:55:01.697" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-10T15:07:49.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2010-11-09T16:42:26.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belt-drive is on the rise. Supposedly much quieter than a chain, and no lube...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T16:42:26.677" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-10T15:07:49.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2074" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:17:49.083" Score="15" ViewCount="3124" Body="&lt;p&gt;What with daylight saving time ending and it now being pitch black by the time I finish work, I'm not exactly trusting of just a couple small lights on my bike being enough to make me visible to drivers. Seeing a couple cyclists around here wearing them got me thinking, would it be worth my while to get a reflective jacket? I did a bit of a hunt and found a place near here that sells them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general price I seem to find is $50 for an uninsulated one, $100+ for insulated. Neon-yellow with reflective stripes, same stuff construction workers would be wearing. Heck, some even have a spot for a name tag :-P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd likely get the uninsulated one, just so it can be used in a wider variety of weather, and I can layer clothing under it easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, would it be worth putting my money toward the jacket, or toward getting a new light and some reflective stripes for the bike itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Re-reading this, I made a mistake in what I was saying. I have a couple lights, they're just not the brightest going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="745" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T19:01:10.467" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T19:01:10.467" Title="Should I get a reflective jacket/coat, or more lighting and reflective strips for the bike?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;visibility&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:45:57.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. For riding in the dark, you really do want some form of reflective clothing (as well as lights).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.co.uk/products?hl=&amp;amp;q=high+visibility+vest&amp;amp;rlz=1B3GGGL_en-GBGB335GB335&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;ei=54fZTN2CLMOOjAeBg4SkCg&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;oi=product_result_group&amp;amp;ct=title&amp;amp;resnum=4&amp;amp;ved=0CFAQrQQwAw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;high visibility vest&lt;/a&gt; very cheap. I picked one up for about £2. I just made sure mine is a couple of sizes too big so I can comfortably wear it on top of warm clothes during winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also means it works great in the warmer weather if you're riding late (or early).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T00:45:38.310" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T00:45:38.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:55:40.300" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, get a jacket. Also, you can get reflective bands which you can put around your ankles - I think these show up really well to drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For road riding, it's all about being safe and that means you need to be seen by others. Top of the range expensive lights will help you see where you're going. They will help drivers see you too, but most drivers have got headlights, so if you can cover yourself in bright, reflective material, that will probably do a far better job of getting drivers to see you than some brighter lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're an off-road mountain-biker and want to be able to see obstacles in the dark, then that's when you need the expensive lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T17:55:40.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:15:28.843" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the obvious answer is that you really should have lights &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; a reflective jacket or vest, I'm assuming this is the real world and you have limited resources! Let's go by what conditions you ride in: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your route is mostly well-lit and being seen is more of a requitement, I'd concentrate on a decent cycling jacket or safety vest. I prefer uninsulated jackets, but I also have one that's lightly insulated; I sometimes wear the safety yellow jacket over the black insulated cycling jacket. You can also get small, cheap LED be-seen lights you can clip on your helmet or wear on your head if you don't wear a helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;But if you ride in the pitch-black, I'd suggest a cheap safety vest, making do with a non-cycling jacket you may already have, and put the rest of your money towards a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; light, something like a Dinotte or a MiNewt. They aren't cheap, but they're worth every penny. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final point: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reflective gear and a good headlight are more than just safety equipment, they're good PR. I get compliments on my safety equipment, particularly my 200 lumen headlight, quite often, from people in my town (often parents with children), drivers (more than once, someone at a red light will roll down a window to tell me my lighting and safety equipment are uncommon, and keep it up!) and once from two New York City cops (who yelled out &quot;that's the way to do it!&quot; as I rode by at night). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, the idiot wrong-way &quot;ninja&quot; cyclists make us all look bad; but cyclists with safety equipment make us all look &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you decide for now, keep in mind that this isn't an either-or choice in the long term: As I'm sure you know, you can always get more safety equipment later on. Yeah, it may seem as if those dinky lights don't do much, but when you have a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of them, they make you quite visible indeed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:15:28.843" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:11:54.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;High-vis is the best 2 quid you will ever spend.  If you wear a rucksack get an extra large one that will go over the rucksack or tape/glue/tie one onto the backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T22:11:54.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2080" CreationDate="2010-11-10T02:45:03.840" Score="31" ViewCount="61397" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2061/8&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; got me to thinking: If it were possible for me to use a carbon frame, I would, but the expense and my riding style keep me using steel and aluminum. (I like hauling stuff on racks and I'm not a skinny guy.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a &lt;strong&gt;physical reason why&lt;/strong&gt; carbon is a weak, fragile material, suitable for light bikes that will be treated delicately. Keep in mind, they make airplanes out of this stuff! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some reason carbon fiber has to be treated with kid gloves? What is it about the material that resists being light &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; strong? Or, perhaps, is the weakness of carbon a myth, and it's all in the way that carbon bike frames are built at present? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T00:03:42.550" Title="Why is carbon fiber inherently weak? Or is it?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2010-11-10T02:50:51.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't actually know the full details, but I know Carbon Fiber tends to be strong and flexible in some directions, and not very strong in others.  So when you build a frame out of it, you can align it just right so that the frame is bendy and absorbs shocks in the ways frames are supposed to work, but if you apply the wrong pressure to it (say, drop it sideways onto a concrete curve), it might crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, as was perhaps made clear by my &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2061/563&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt;, I'm not actually sure :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T02:50:51.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:00:06.113" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;First a disclaimer: most of what I know about carbon fiber fabrication comes from aircraft, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; bicycles. Also note that carbon fiber is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the only composite that gets used -- just for one alternative, Kevlar fibers can be useful as well (Kevlar is stronger, but also more flexible than carbon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber is strong, but does not respond well to &lt;em&gt;point&lt;/em&gt; stresses. This is largely because it's basically cloth (woven out of carbon fibers). If you put a lot of stress at a single point, you're putting that stress on only a few of those carbon fibers. While the fibers themselves are extremely strong (for their weight), the bonding holding the individual fibers together is much weaker. For comparison, think of the packing tape that has fiberglass fibers running along its length. The fiberglass itself is really strong, but the strip of plastic and &quot;goo&quot; holding them together is a lot weaker. Although the details differ, the same general idea applies to carbon fiber as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact strength depends on direction as well. As I said above, carbon fiber starts out as a basically threads that are woven into cloth. The cloth is then impregnated with some sort of epoxy (the exact epoxy used varies with the application), laid up in a mold, vacuum bagged&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, then baked to harden the epoxy. You can get the cloth in various different weaves, some with the same amount of carbon fiber running in each direction, other with (say) 80% of the carbon fiber in one direction, and only 20% in the other direction. At a guess, most of the CF used in a bike frame is probably somewhere closer to the latter variety, with most of the threads running along the length of a tube, and considerably less running around the circumference of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as we're at it: carbon is also about twice as strong with respect to being stretched as being compressed. You'll typically have around twice as many plies where it's primarily subjected to a compressive load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Vacuum bagging means a big plastic bag is placed around the mold and laid-up cloth, and the air sucked out. Air pressure on the outside holds the layers of cloth tight together to (try to) ensure that when they're baked, they act as a single layer, not separate layers. This has little effect on the strength when subjected to stretching, but a huge effect when subjected to compression or bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T04:00:06.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2010-11-10T05:34:04.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber is a very strong material, but like any material it does some things better than others.  From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_fiber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber is very strong when stretched or bent, but weak when compressed or exposed to high shock (e.g. a carbon fiber bar is extremely difficult to bend, but will crack easily if hit with a hammer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that a carbon fiber frame can support the weight of a rider &lt;em&gt;plus&lt;/em&gt; all of the forces that a rider adds (which can exceed several times their body weight) it is by no means weak.  All this for less than the weight of a comparable aluminum or steel frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But certain types of forces -- like sharp impacts -- can damage the fibers and epoxy weakening the material, something that is less likely with a metal.  And a small clamp can crush a CF tube, given enough force (you can do this with thin-walled aluminum tubing too but it takes more effort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="157" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T05:39:08.067" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T05:39:08.067" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2010-11-10T05:41:44.487" Score="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber isn't necessarily a &quot;weak&quot; or &quot;fragile&quot; material. If you had a tube of the same diameter and thickness of typical CF as a typical steel frame tube, that CF tube would be extremely strong and durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metals like steel and aluminum are isotropic materials. That means their mechanical properties are identical in all directions. If you have a cube of steel, it will respond the same way regardless which direction you pull or push on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber is a composite material. It consist of tons of little bundles of the fibers held together with an epoxy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A block of steel is, well, like steel, but carbon fiber is like a big bundle of straws glued together. In one direction, it is extremely strong, but if you push or pull to the side, it will collapse. In that one dimension where it is strong, it is vastly stronger than steel. However, in other directions it's rather flimsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, engineers have been able to exploit those properties in bicycle frames. In a bicycle frame, the vast, vast majority of the forces are primarly along a single dimension. They can make tubes thinner and lighter yet still retain the desired strength and stiffness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, there is no mechanical reason that you couldn't build a fully loaded touring bike or something like a Salsa Fargo with a carbon frame, and it could be just as tough and durable. And it would probably be lighter than a steel or aluminum frame. But the reason it isn't done is because of the market. Carbon fiber is an expensive material and difficult to work with, and its mechanical properties are best suited for when you demand very light applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you build a steel framed bike, when you get the tubes sufficiently strong enough along their length, that because of steels isotropic properties, you get the lateral strength for free, the strength to resist things banging into it, withstanding crashes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a carbon fiber frame, you don't get the strength in the other dimensions unless you choose to design it in. In carbon fiber bikes, where weight is a serious concern, the engineering decision has been made to not make the frames strong in those areas. They could do so, but they choose not to because its not necessary for the bikes intended purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you build a heavy loaded bike, you lose a lot of the carbon fibers advantages, and so it would be far more economical to use steel or aluminum.  Especially when throwing a couple filled water bottles in your pannier nearly exceeds the weight savings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T05:47:54.870" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T05:47:54.870" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2014" CreationDate="2010-11-10T11:26:30.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the winter I wear neoprene overshoes/galoshes. (Some kind of socks on the outside of my shoes):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YSd4V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are not intended for walking. They wear very much, and the nose slides up, even after a few steps. The bottom is open, so you can use your SPD or other clickless pedals. But while cycling they keep your foot dry and warm. And they protect your shoes from dirt and mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the autumn and winter, I always wear them for &quot;sport cycling&quot; (mtb, road). I wished they were around when used to cycle to school (20 km through open terrain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="444" LastEditDate="2010-11-14T20:40:02.123" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T20:40:02.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2010-11-10T11:33:45.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Electricity&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric gadgets on bikes (while available now) will become mainstream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Examples&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electrical bikes&lt;/strong&gt;, not the ones your grandmother uses to go shopping, but electrical race- and mountainbikes. Implemented using invisible and low weight devices like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gruberassist.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gruber Assist&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also think about &lt;strong&gt;electronic shifters&lt;/strong&gt; like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_gear-shifting_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dura Ace di2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T11:42:24.913" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-10T15:07:49.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1886" CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:45:04.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For our small expedition with our bicycles in Patagonia we invested into slightly larger tires and more durable ones (we choose the Schwalbe Marathon XR in 700C, the widest our bike frame could accomodate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It did quite a change, you hear more the tire noises, it helps better in muddy terrain and feels more confortable in gravel roads or in the fields. However, it's not really good in sandy parts or when the gravels are too big or too loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall it was a good and needed change, it would have been much less confortable to ride down in Patagonia with out those wider tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to change yours, follow freiheit advice or go pay a visit to a local bicycle shop. It's not always possible to put different tires because of the rim, brakes or frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="748" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T20:45:04.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1800" CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:55:20.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My take is the following: There are no con's for bike lanes! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it: Are there discussions of pro's and con's of sidewalks (aka pedestrian lanes)? No! Why? Because they are useful! It's a matter of protecting the fragile against the one ton metal boxes that are propelled at 50km/h!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are many con's for how local politics have decided to implements bike lanes because they fail the purpose of it: there are inconsistencies, they are not enough separated from the road, they are placed dangerously, etc. Each time we witness such mistakes which should contact our local council and tell them about it. OK, I agree, it's not always useful, where I live they don't listen at all. But that's why there is elections, and I vote where my mouth is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/maps/ezsj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;In Toulouse&lt;/a&gt;, bike lanes are nice but improperly done in most cases. They can even lead you to a one way street with no bike lane and you will be against the traffic (&lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/maps/lY1y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rue A. Dauménil&lt;/a&gt;)! Or they share part of the sidewalks leaving no room for pedestrians (&lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/maps/cJKJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;allée M. Sarraut&lt;/a&gt;). Or they share the road (just a bit of paint) and suddenly the road gets narrow and you get squeeze between a car and a high sidewalk (&lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/maps/XSe6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;avenue C. Pujol&lt;/a&gt;), which means you are in danger! So yes, bike lanes in Toulouse have lots of con's, I just hope they will do a better job at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="748" LastEditorUserId="748" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T22:21:03.137" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T22:21:03.137" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:27:08.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do ride also about 24km per day in somewhat slightly hilly city where it's around 0°C in winter and 35°C in summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in winter time I wear this when it's not raining:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tight t-shirt (actually I use IceBreaker, thin, 160 density)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;warm t-shirt with long sleeves (IceBreaker, thicker, 280 density)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a wind breaker jacket (I have a Mammut, Gore Wind Stopper one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit sporty, but it's highly breath-able and keeps warm enough even at -6°C (the minimum temperature I had last year).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On rainy day I had on top a rain jacket or I replace the windproof one by the waterproof one, depends on how cold it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I would do shorter commute, I would dress in winter more or less as I would if I go outside walking in the streets. Perhaps a rain trouser would be nice if it's really badly raining, or a poncho would do it. Cycle Chic ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="748" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T21:27:08.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:37:30.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing bicycle touring, and we do end up with broken spokes, with sometimes no place to fix it. I think the longest stretch was 120km in the South of Chile, on bad roads (gravel and dirt) with one and then two broken spokes. Even with the bicycle load (due to the luggage) the wheel handled that, although I've just been straightening it a bit from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So sure, you should be fine on a commuting bicycle with almost no load. Just take care of the bumps on the road (esp. when going on a sidewalk, if it's a shared one) as you might put pressure on the wheel which could bend a bit ==&gt; the wheel could then touch the brakes if you don't have disks ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But don't wait too long. It's not because it's possible that it doesn't harm the rim to have broken spokes, eventhough I saw bikes in the Netherlands with quite a few broken spokes, still cycling and sometimes with 2 people on it! Crazy Dutch ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="748" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T21:37:30.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2090" CreationDate="2010-11-11T13:14:13.483" Score="21" ViewCount="9766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike that I commute to work on, just a 9km trip each way.  I also have some tightness in my lower back, especially since I usually sit in front of a computer screen.  My wife wants me to change my road bike set up so that I am no longer bent over when riding, but have a more upright posture.  Can I change the stem and handle bars easily (and cheaply) for a flat bar configuration so as to turn my road bike into a commuter bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I am also planning on getting some panniers fitted, so as to take the weight of a backpack off me, but that will probably be another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T13:59:43.600" Title="How do I change a road bike into a commuter bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2010-11-11T13:28:26.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My nighttime (and daytime) commute through the suburbs is no longer scary now that I am using a DiNotte taillight.  I bought one after I read someone refer to the philosophy of being &lt;em&gt;annoyingly visible&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get at least a half of a lane to myself now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="555" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T13:28:26.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2010-11-11T15:14:48.650" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can probably change the stem to something shorter with more rise and not have anything else to change. This may be enough to relieve the back pressure and the drop bars will give you more hand positions which I've always found easier on my carpal tunnel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the handle bars to flat bars will mean you have to get a set of shifters and brake levers to go with the new handle bar style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also recommend that you get a set of full wrap fenders so you can keep the road spray to a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a designer and programmer so I understand the issues around sitting all day. A better investment may be in your chair at the office and your desk. You're spending way more time sitting there every day than you are on your bike. That is the place that you can most likely get the most benefit by setting it up for a proper ergonomic workspace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T15:14:48.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2010-11-11T19:41:49.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I really fear is strong-hybrid bikes. Not hybrid as in a normal bike, but an electric bike with pedals, but the pedals are only connected to a generator. Pedal when you want, how much you like. It doesn't matter so long as you have enough juice left. That's going to change the feel of cycling much more than current electric bikes do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T19:41:49.483" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-11T19:41:49.483" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2112" CreationDate="2010-11-11T23:42:48.060" Score="8" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to attempt my first super randonneur series in the first half of next year. Picking a 200k and 300k are easy: I'll just ride my local ones (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aukweb.net/cal/calsolo.php?Ride=11-235&quot;&gt;End of Hibernation 200&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aukweb.net/cal/calsolo.php?Ride=11-314&quot;&gt;Hauxton 300&lt;/a&gt;). And 600k is easy too: the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aukweb.net/cal/calsolo.php?Ride=11-160&quot;&gt;Seething ride&lt;/a&gt; is easy to get to, and has a great reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But which 400k should I attempt? The closest to me is the ride from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aukweb.net/cal/calsolo.php?Ride=11-901&quot;&gt;Manningtree&lt;/a&gt;, but that's an unsupported event and it's not really all that close. If I'm going to travel, maybe it would better to enter one of the &quot;classics&quot; like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aukweb.net/cal/calsolo.php?Ride=11-898&quot;&gt;Irish Mail&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aukweb.net/cal/calsolo.php?Ride=11-66&quot;&gt;Llanfairpwllgwyn&lt;/a&gt;? I'm a pretty good climber, but not particularly fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd appreciate some advice from experienced randonneurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not familiar with the Audax UK calendar, then I'd still be interested in your advice in general terms: what characteristics of a 400 give the greatest chance of success (and enjoyment!) for a new rider? If I'm going to be too slow to sleep for more than an hour or two on route, does it matter that there are no sleep stops? How much of a difference do manned controls make, as opposed to self-service controls at ATMs and 24-hour garages? What about scenery and amount of climbing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="756" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T14:33:33.427" LastActivityDate="2011-04-03T22:44:40.073" Title="Randonneuring: Which UK 400k is appropriate for a new rider?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;randonneuring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2010-11-12T00:15:33.713" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dunno about upcoming innovations, but I reject the idea that nothing much has changed in the last 25 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike lights have improved enormously. I started cycling with the big EverReady-style lights that took two enormous D cells and gave only a few hours of rather weak light (that is, if the bulb didn't fail). If you wanted to ride for moderate distances in the dark then you had to use a dynamo that dragged like a 30kph headwind while you were moving and went out as soon as you stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my rear LED light lasts all winter on two AAAs, and my high-power front LED is good enough to ride all night on dark country lanes on four AAs. Dynamos have improved too, with hub dynamos and standlights the norm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GPS has made a big difference to navigation. No more staring at maps in the dark to figure out where on earth you are and why that junction that you should have reached 5km ago has stubbornly failed to show up yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Online mapping makes planning bike rides much easier: a route-planning task that used to involve covering your floor with maps and marker pens can be done in a few minutes on your computer. And you can check out the awkward junctions in Google StreetView so you won't get lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, the advantage of the upright bike is its simplicity, ease of repair, and standard parts. There can be tinkering around the edges: better materials, cheaper parts, slight improvements to ergonomics (like brake-mounted gear levers). There's nothing much that needs doing to improve the machine. What we can improve is the way we ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="756" LastEditorUserId="756" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T00:23:37.590" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T00:23:37.590" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-12T00:15:33.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2010-11-12T14:36:19.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;European classics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are hundreds of outstanding rides in Europe for amateurs, but here's a few of the classics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paris-brest-paris.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Paris–Brest–Paris&lt;/a&gt; (PBP), the original audax: a 1,200 km ride from Paris to Brest on the Atlantic coast of Brittany, and back again, with a time limit of 90 hours. It has been run regularly since 1891 and in 2007 attracted more than 5,000 riders. For a long time this was &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; ride that European long-distance cyclists aspired to take part in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.londonedinburghlondon.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;London–Edinburgh–London&lt;/a&gt; (LEL), a 1,400 km there-and-back ride between two of the UK's capital cities. Run 4-yearly since 1989.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vatternrundan.se/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vätternrundan&lt;/a&gt;, a 300 km tour of Lake Vättern in Sweden. Perhaps the most popular ride of this length in Europe, with over 15,000 riders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Marmotte&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;La Marmotte&lt;/a&gt;, a 174 km sportif from Bourg d'Oisans to Alpe d'Huez, passing over the famous cols of Glandon, Télégraphe, and Galibier en route, with over 8,000 m of climbing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.letapedutour.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Étape du Tour&lt;/a&gt;, a sportif in which amateurs ride one of the stages of the Tour de France.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some newer rides that may become classics in time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.audaxclub-sh.de/HBK10_Kopf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hamburg–Berlin–Köln–Hamburg&lt;/a&gt; (HBKH), 1,500 km tour of northern Germany.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.1001migliaitalia.it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1001 Miglia Italia&lt;/a&gt;, a tour of Italy in 1,600 km (1,001 miles).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mgm1200.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Madrid–Gijon–Madrid&lt;/a&gt;, across Spain and back in 1,200 km.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="756" LastEditorUserId="756" LastEditDate="2010-11-13T21:10:03.177" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T21:10:03.177" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-12T14:36:19.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:41:48.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really want to ride the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lotojaclassic.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lotoja&lt;/a&gt;, from Logan, Utah to Jackson, Wyoming (206 miles). There's some beautiful scenery along that route (I've driven it several times) and enough up and down to make it really challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also really want to ride the &lt;a href=&quot;http://salttosaint.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Salt to Saint&lt;/a&gt;, from Salt Lake City, Utah to St. George, Utah. Since it goes through my hometown and all... Also, some beautiful views along the route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T16:41:48.353" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-12T16:41:48.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2103" CreationDate="2010-11-12T17:11:11.873" Score="69" ViewCount="8915" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a commuter; I mostly ride around the city to get to work, go shopping, visit friends, and stop by the pub. I have basic cycling skills down; proper mounting and dismounting, signaling turns, standing on my pedals to sprint up short hills, and so on. But I've seen some more advanced skills and tricks that I don't know how to do, such as bunny hops, track stands, and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What advanced cycling skills are useful for a commuter or city rider, and how can I learn to do them? I'm interesting in things that are useful, not just showy, and interested in city riding, not mountain biking. For instance, learning to bunny hop might be useful for that one point where the curb cut to get back on the bike trail is half a block down from where the trail actually is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each trick or skill, describe it and how it's useful in the city, any limitations it might have (can only be done on a fixie or a mountain bike with front shocks, or should only be done when you have plenty of clearance on both sides, etc), and describe how to learn it, either directly in the answer or by referring to a good resource on learning it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-13T18:32:04.677" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T16:31:29.990" Title="What advanced cycling skills are useful for a commuter or city rider?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;city&gt;&lt;tricks&gt;&lt;skills&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2010-11-12T19:40:15.787" Score="37" Body="&lt;h1&gt;How to mount a curb. (kerb?)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with your bike. With enough skill, you can go up a tall curb without damaging the bike. But as a novice, make it easier on yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove extra weight: Backpack, panniers, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove loose items. Water bottles come to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flat bars are easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fat tires protect your wheels when you make a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Prerequisites&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helps if you can ride slowly. If you don't feel confident at below-walking-speeds, then you'll have a harder time learning to mount curbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to do it&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to get your body weight &lt;strong&gt;off&lt;/strong&gt; the wheel that is going up the curb. You weigh 5-10x as much as your bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make your approach 90° from the curb. Low speed is good, but make sure you feel stable on the bike. Stand on pedals at 3- and 9-o'clock. Keep your knees slightly bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just before the front wheel hits, throw your weight back and yank up on the handlebars. You may lift the front wheel off the ground slightly, but it's not necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just before the back wheel hits, throw your weight forward, and hop on the pedals. You may lift the back wheel off the ground, but that's harder than the front wheel. I can't do it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do it perfectly, it should be a smooth motion. The bike doesn't get jolted around. You don't lose any speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Where to practice&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a flat, empty, paved parking lot. You want the biking to be as easy and safe as possible, without distractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before going up a curb, practice with going over a twig or a pebble. See how smoothly you can do it. Graduate to larger items &amp;amp; higher speeds when ready. The concrete bars they put at the end of each parking space can be good practice, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Going down a curb&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same principles apply. Before your front wheel drops, shift your weight way back, and ease the wheel down. Before the rear wheel drops, get your weight on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Advanced techniques&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can bunny hop (I can't), then you can approach a curb or other obstacle at high speed and clear it easily. Good for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2020-08-31T22:02:03.273" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T22:02:03.273" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2010-11-12T19:51:16.583" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Most Direct Route is Not Always the Best&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or in other words. Your driving commute route is usually a horrible bicycling commute route. I purposefully avoid big roads as much as possible and take small residential streets or dedicated bike paths when available, an extra mile on a bike path can actually save you time over a shorter busy commute route, not to mention the savings to your health, safety, and the increase in your general enjoyment. If my commute reminds me of my sunday ride, then I know I have a good route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are a bicyclist, there is no reason to endanger your life on the 50MPh express-way when the 25MPH residential street can get you there just as quickly. In California, residential streets are often extremely wide (Parked car + Bike Lane + 1.5Width lanes both ways) compared to dedicated expressways and can be orders of magnitude more safe and comfortable to ride (The pavement is often newer and less broken). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are new to the area, spend a weekend or two just exploring local residential streets, hop on over to google maps and find the a way to use small streets to get to where you need to go (often this involves riding through the residential maze and with at least 5 or 6 street changes). Practice your route at least once and carry a printout of the route with you at least the first few times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have the right to a lane, even on the busiest streets, but the fact of the matter is that not everyone respects this right and not everyone is aware of this right. During Busy commutes, drivers are often distracted in many different ways (putting on makeup, drinking coffee, worrying about being late, etc.) and can be unaware of bicyclists, nothing will ruin your day more than an accident on the way to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T19:51:16.583" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-12T19:51:16.583" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2010-11-12T21:49:52.790" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both basic and advanced things any cyclist should know are covered in Cyclecraft. The best book on road cycling in the world (though remember non-Brits we cycle on the other side of the road!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclecraft.co.uk/&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclecraft.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: actually there is a North American edition.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclecraft.org/&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclecraft.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not very happy giving excerpts but I guess the thing that I think is most important in the book is talking about road position of the bike and taking a primary riding position and not cowering next to the curb in the broken glass and drain covers. It has a good section on being overtaken by traffic and how to discourage this if it is not safe. Also being aware of the way trucks and lorries can behave and so avoid being crushed by turning trucks (which is what causes most cyclist deaths here in London see the no more lethal lorries campaign &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.no-more-lethal-lorries.org.uk/&quot;&gt;http://www.no-more-lethal-lorries.org.uk/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="760" LastEditorUserId="760" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T22:21:12.410" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T22:21:12.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2010-11-12T21:58:05.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting the weight of your back is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to try is some back/core strengthening exercises. Much better than getting some hybrid good for nothing cycle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hesitant to suggest exercises as I am not a doctor but there is a lot of body-weight stuff you can do easily enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="760" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T21:58:05.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2010-11-12T22:03:59.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a long sleeve lightweight jacket that conforms to EN471 Class 3, which is what is required to work on motorways (not that I suggest cycling there :D) The bands on the sleeve help arm movements to be visible, and every bit helps. £4.50 should be accessible for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are a very open material so not too hot on longer rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eg &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fashionsystems.net/product.aspx?ProductId=77&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fashionsystems.net/product.aspx?ProductId=77&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="760" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T22:03:59.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2010-11-12T22:14:48.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check with your local cycling advocacy group, they often have bike-handling classes, which tend to teach both techniques and give you some insight to the law in your area.  As you mentioned you're from Boston, I recommend checking out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.massbike.org/education/bike-safety-classes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MassBike's classes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T22:14:48.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2010-11-12T22:40:01.350" Score="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some important skills for commuters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Looking directly behind you without turning.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a surprisingly difficult skill to master. When a rider looks directly backwards, it is common to turn in the direction they twisted their head. It takes a lot of practice to make resisting that turning automatic. The importance of looking behind you in traffic should be obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Rapid countersteering&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not uncommon to come up to an intersection when a vehicle in the crossing direction will come in front of you, and you will not have enough time or space to stop safely. Sometimes what is required is a countersteered* turn into the direction the crossing vehicle is traveling. This requires a quick turn of the handlebars in the opposite direction you want to turn, which will cause your center of gravity to rapidly swing to the side you want to be going. Returning the handlebars to turn in the direction you want to go completes the turn, and by doing so you can turn very rapidly with a very tight radius. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might not be able to stop, but it can be preferable to make a sudden turn rather than crashing into something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Stopping suddenly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not many riders are highly skilled in using their brakes. Practice slamming on your brakes, &lt;strong&gt;especially using only the front&lt;/strong&gt;, and get a feel for how much force it takes to get your back wheel off the ground. Practice to the point that when you are in a panic situation you don't simply clutch the levels with every ounce of strength, practice so modulating your brake power is a purely mechanical, automatic skill. Also practice stopping on sandy, wet, and icy surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lesser but still important skills&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watching for people in parked cars that might open their door right in front of you while biking alongside them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recognizing when &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicyclesafe.com/&quot;&gt;one of the common collision&lt;/a&gt; situations are upon you and how to respond defensively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding on slippery surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never stop at the stop line where 18 wheelers are turning, always stop a good distance behind so the truck has room to turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T22:40:01.350" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-11-12T23:38:47.747" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people ride a fixed-gear bike to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4SUTtHe1fs&quot;&gt;Cycleball&lt;/a&gt;, the most awesome of all competitive cycling sports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T23:38:47.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2010-11-13T05:01:32.603" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try driving around bicyclists&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you are experienced with biking around cars, you know what drivers often do that you hate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Periodically do some driving around bikes, to stay in touch with what drivers are going through. That will help you anticipate driver's behavior when you're on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T05:01:32.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2010-11-13T22:39:45.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Panniers are a great idea. Having the weight off your back will give you more stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat bars are nice but not required.  If your road setup has C-drops, just ride with your hands on the hoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check into an adjustable stem.  This will allow you to position it as you like.  Since this will be a commuter, the extra weight of an adjustable stem is of less concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check into bigger tires.  This is pretty low cost and will add a) better traction and control and b) better wear protection from unknowns in the road or hopping a curb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reiterating other posters, core strength is key for many reasons.  Shortening your distance from the saddle to the bars can help with back stiffness but getting your core fitness up is the best approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="764" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T22:39:45.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2010-11-13T22:54:45.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Prouty is a very popular charity ride based out of Hanover, NH. They have both running and cycling events ranging from a 1k walk to 100 mile ride. There is also a 200 mile, 2 day event named the Ultimate Prouty that I have rode support for in the past: &lt;a href=&quot;http://theprouty.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://theprouty.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="765" LastEditorUserId="18756" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T23:35:18.720" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T23:35:18.720" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-13T22:54:45.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2114" CreationDate="2010-11-14T18:03:35.363" Score="33" ViewCount="31266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute to work by bike, sometimes I share the journey with a co-worker. The problem is because of the wind and distance between the bikes, it's very hard to hear what the other person says.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be great to have some kind of hands-free radio headset to communicate while riding.  For example, one solution might be a bluetooth headset, like the ones used with mobile phones, coupled with some kind of mobile phone or radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I could find were wired units meant for two people sharing one motorbike. The radio based units I found were again for motorbikes and also seemed very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do units like this exist for cyclists?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="778" LastEditDate="2012-03-19T21:38:59.300" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T05:29:59.397" Title="What headset/radio products exist for bike-to-bike communication?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2092" CreationDate="2010-11-14T18:30:33.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've completed a handful of 400km brevets and organized one myself, but I can only speak to my experience in British Columbia (Canada) which is quite different riding than in the UK.  I find the 400km to be the hardest in the basic series and have heard other randonneurs (but not all) echo this feeling, so you're wise to choose this one carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference vs. the 300km is that most riders will spend a significant time of riding in the dark.  This depends on rider speed and time of year but it's not unusual to spend at least 100km in darkness.  Riding at night adds many additional challenges, including colder temperatures, sleep deprivation, difficulty navigating (signs are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; easy to miss, landmarks disappear) and trouble finding fueling stops open at such a late hour.  That last point is important because calorie intake is critical on a 400km -- you can skimp on a 200km and even a 300km and still finish, but when you're cold and tired and sleep deprived after 20 hours on the bike, bonking comes very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as a new rider, I'd suggest looking for a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A straightforward route that doesn't involve lots of turns or route-finding in the last 100km.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't pick an &quot;epic&quot; route for your first 400km or 600km brevet.  You will be surprised how tired your legs get after 300km when otherwise easy hills transform into steep ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't pick a boring route either.  Long-distance riding is very tough on the mind and it helps to have scenery to look at and the occasional hill to break up the rhythm.  But keep in mind that scenery doesn't really matter after dark -- all you'll see is the patch of road in front of you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ideal route uses low-traffic roads in good condition, and avoids crossing major cities/towns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plan out where you could stop in the second half of the ride for food: staffed controls (preferably with hot food like soup), pubs serving food late, all-night restaurants, and 24h gas stations &amp;amp; convenience stores.  You should also plan on bringing food with you in case these options don't work out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've never seen a sleep stop on a 400km (like the &quot;Irish Mail&quot;).  On a 600km you normally don't build up enough of a time buffer to stop for a nap until around the 350km mark. At same point on a 400km, you're less than 3 hours from the finish anyway.  Unless you know you don't handle sleep deprivation well, a sleep stop is not a must.  You can always bring an emergency blanket and curl up under a tree or in a field if you're desperate for a nap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't underestimate the importance of getting to the start.  You'll be more likely to ride something that's easy to get to, and will appreciate it even more when you have to make your way back home afterwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few comments on the ride descriptions you posted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Asparagus &amp;amp; Strawberries&lt;/strong&gt;:  not much information posted, although the climbing (2600m) looks reasonable; being close to home is a plus.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Irish Mail&lt;/strong&gt;: sounds like fun, hot food &amp;amp; sleep stop at 345km, easy navigation on return route, but &lt;em&gt;lots&lt;/em&gt; of climbing (5600m).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LGL / Poynton 400km&lt;/strong&gt;: mentions easy night navigation, 24h services; bonus points for the name.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="157" LastEditDate="2011-04-03T22:44:40.073" LastActivityDate="2011-04-03T22:44:40.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2111" CreationDate="2010-11-14T18:36:41.117" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bluetooth accessories (like headsets) expect to pair up with something smarter, like a cellphone or computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One simple alternative would be to each use a bluetooth headset and cell phone.  Start a call at the beginning of the ride and stay connected until you finish or part ways.  You will ideally need a cell plan that allows unlimited calling to a specific number (your cycling partner's) or else plenty of minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T18:36:41.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2111" CreationDate="2010-11-14T19:33:23.200" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago, when my wife and I started riding together, we got a pair of cheap two-way-radios, with headsets that included &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voice-operated_switch&quot;&gt;VOX&lt;/a&gt;.  This allowed us to talk even when we weren't riding side-by-side.  And since we weren't trying to talk from a mile away, it didn't matter how cheap the radios were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this requires you coordinate with your co-worker, both have radios set up and tuned to the same frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-29T21:34:51.397" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T21:34:51.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-14T19:51:29.500" Score="6" ViewCount="5757" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a very short woman and, since I wanted a triangle-frame fixie, I used 26&quot; tires and a 49cm frame so it would fit me perfectly. The trouble is my tires are the wider variety. I want to have the slim fixie look, so I want skinny tires, but I can't find them in 26&quot; size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mostly want the slim tires for cosmetic reasons. The current tires function perfectly. (Used to to be a messenger, now I just commute) so maybe there are some tires that just have a more &quot;speedy&quot; look to them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my bike looks nice I feel good about riding. So, I'm hoping someone can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="767" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-11-14T21:34:48.827" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T07:37:01.393" Title="Skinny 26&quot; tires? Giveing a small fixie a “faster” look" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;26-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-11-14T20:02:01.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like my fixed gear bike for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is light and easy to pick up when I face stairs. I love having a bike I can move all by myself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is simple and I'm able to repair it on my own without any trouble. In fact, I made the bike myself. (With some help.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I like the way it looks. I think it is very fashionable, and that just makes me want to ride more!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I enjoy being able to stop with my legs. I enjoy the way that the speed is always very consistent. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="767" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T20:02:01.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2115" CreationDate="2010-11-14T20:41:47.310" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/254#254&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt; doesn't stock speedier/skinnier 26&quot; tires, you might have to order them (either through the shop or online somewhere).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are a bit less common, but here's four options I found looking at some major tire manufacturer's websites:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=57825&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specialized All Condition Elite&lt;/a&gt; (26x1.0 available)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/durano&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Durano 399&lt;/a&gt; (26x1.10 and 26x1.35 available)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/city/fitness/sportcontact/sportcontact_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Continental Sport Contact&lt;/a&gt; (26x1.3 available)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/kojak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Kojak&lt;/a&gt; (26x1.35 available)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There's limits to how narrow a tire you can reasonably put on a given rim.  If you go too narrow for a given rim, you'll get pinch flats and possibly even rim damage. Sheldon Brown's site has a helpful &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire_sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chart of tire width and rim width compatibility&lt;/a&gt;.  What is the (interior) width of your rims?  Or at the very least, what size tire do you have now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T00:26:58.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2010-11-15T05:36:21.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know how heavy your backpack is, but I would defo start by getting that off your back, If you carry your laptop round in it then its too heavy. Stick it in a saddle bag. It makes the whole trip more enjoyable, you are free to move around, your back gets relief and the bike carries the weight and you'll be quicker!.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T05:36:21.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2123" CreationDate="2010-11-15T13:09:47.850" Score="4" ViewCount="4593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of Shimano R560's that have flat, bladed spokes (16 front &amp;amp; 20 rear, from memory).  They are a little worse for wear after a couple of years and at least 10,000 kms.  My usual LBS has had a go at truing them but they continually go out of true just with everyday riding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any special techniques required for these types of wheels?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also ask since I have another set of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1962/how-do-you-pronounce-ksyrium&quot;&gt;Ksyrium&lt;/a&gt; wheels, and while they have been fantastic over the past 5 years, I want to be prepared should they ever get out of true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T22:02:43.727" Title="Is there a special technique for truing flat spoked wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2121" CreationDate="2010-11-15T13:12:42.890" Score="13" ViewCount="1411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following on from my earlier question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2119/is-there-a-special-technique-for-truing-flat-spoked-wheels&quot;&gt;truing&lt;/a&gt; them, I was wondering if anybody could point out the advantages (and perhaps disadvantages) of flat spoked wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T02:54:12.413" Title="What are the advantages of flat spoked wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2120" CreationDate="2010-11-15T14:47:22.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, they claim an aerodynamic advantage, but sometimes at the expense of extra weight.  I've been told that they're recommended for flat-land riders, where aero is more important than weight, and to avoid them if any climbing is involved...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T14:47:22.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2111" CreationDate="2010-11-15T14:56:42.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe a ski walkie talkie would do the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an example check out the &lt;strong&gt;ligo&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cordless-phones.uk.com/two-way-radios/two-way-radios/doro-wt87-mic-radio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Buying Guide&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="760" LastEditorUserId="26813" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T05:29:59.397" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T05:29:59.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2119" CreationDate="2010-11-15T15:31:55.163" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only real difference is that you want to make sure the spokes don't twist. Ksyriums come with a little fork dealy so you can hold the spoke straight (at least mine did). With others, you'll have to improvise your own tool--pliers with plenty of tape on the jaws so you don't scratch the spokes would do it. Hold the spoke on the flat part nearest the nipple to keep the spoke from twisting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, technique should be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wheel won't stay true, you should probably check your spoke tension. If it's too low and/or particularly uneven, you'll never get it to stay true even if you can get a temporary true on the workstand. You want to watch also for spoke wind-up, which is where the spoke twists instead of turning within the nipple and tightening or loosening. Cures for that are proper spoke prep before building the wheel, and a tiny drop of penetrating oil where each nipple contacts the rim. Penetrating oil might help if your spokes weren't prepped properly, but I don't know about that for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="773" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T15:31:55.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2010-11-15T20:27:59.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Single Speeds are about a ride more challenging, not in the sense of being harder physically, but more of a chess game than a test of leg and lung strength...knowing when to pause, maybe even almost track stand to get that extra oomph you need to attack that loose steep section. No gears to help you, just your mind to adapt your riding style to the constraints of the bike. The rear end of the SS is SO much lighter. And I don't put  any extra weight there either, the rear end is unsprung weight, and it rolls better the lighter it is. A geared bike's derailleur and long chain acts as a damper when you try to lift the back end...the SS pulls up willingly, like a BMX bike. Momentum is REALLY your friend on a SS, you have all the incentive to attack at the top of the hill and keep off the brake, since you may be going too fast to pedal back up to speed. Technique pays off, especially in steep sections where you may need to stand up and know how to keep the rear wheel planted. I enjoy climbing standing up, pulling on the bars at about 5RPM, while my buddy next to me grinds away on his granny ring. Having a light and simple bike helps me afford better parts, which last longer. No expensive cassettes to wear out folks! And personally, the SS makes me feel like a kid!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="774" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T20:27:59.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2010-11-16T06:01:15.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's also worth pointing out that while carbon fiber can be laid up to be plenty strong, it's not at all ductile, like steel or (to a lesser extent) aluminum. You can put a pretty good sized dent in a metal frame and still ride it home, but if you put a dent in carbon fiber you've probably compromised the whole tube to the point that you should probably not ride on it. It's just a lot more brittle, so deformation means breaking, where in metals it usually means something's stretched or compressed, which does comparatively less to hurt structural integrity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="773" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T06:01:15.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2014" CreationDate="2010-11-16T14:24:19.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some &quot;toe warmer&quot; type things that slip over the front of my cycling shoes.  Has an opening in them to go around the clipping mechanism.  Works surprisingly well.  I go cycling in the snow with them, but have not gone out in days colder than upper 20's (F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T14:24:19.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2119" CreationDate="2010-11-16T22:02:43.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the sidewalls of the Shimanos worn to the point that the actual wear is what is degrading the true? One problem that comes to mind is if they have sufficient wear the inability for the tube to stabilize in the rim itself could perpetually un-true the rim, and it may have nothing to do with the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T22:02:43.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="990" CreationDate="2010-11-17T05:51:24.850" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was taught how to track stand on a fixed gear bike by some velodrome riders and here are some pointers they gave me that really helped me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep your pedals roughly horizontal, and turn your front wheel about 45 degrees towards the side that has the front foot. Most beginners don't do this, they move their wheel left/right in an attempt to stabilize the trackstand. While this may work temporarily, it is very bad technique and you won't be able to progress to long seated trackstands like this. Assuming you ride on the right side of the road it is good to learn with the wheel facing left, so that when you get better you'l be able to utilize the camber of the road (you want the wheel pointed uphill, which will be left if you're on the right side of the road).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learning on slight hills is definitely a good idea, but not necessary if you're on a fixed gear bike. I learned to trackstand by not thinking about just stopping and balancing, but focusing on riding into the trackstand. as the pedals approached the horizontal position, I would slow them down, and I'd try to stop with the front pedal slightly higher than the back pedal, this gave me slightly better leverage. Now the important thing is to not rely on turning the wheel right if you start falling over to the right. Use your center of balance to overcompensate to the left. If you see you're constantly falling right, lean more left, and vice versa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another very important thing to remember while learning is trackstanding is not about standing perfectly still when you're learning, its about forward and backwards movement. If you're on a fixie, alternate putting a tiny amount of pressure on the front foot and on the back foot. You will be rocking back and forth (quite a bit at first), but as you get better you will minimize these movements. On a freewheel the gravity provides the backwards motion, so you apply pressure on the front foot, then let off slightly to rock back. This rocking motion is critical in acquiring the right balance. Again, you should NOT be moving your wheel left-right. You should be using your center of balance for left-right balance, and rock forward and backwards for forwards/backwards balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice is key, eventually I reached the point where I could confidently trackstand sitting down with my hands not on the bars. Re-learning how to trackstand on flat ground on a freewheel is proving to be tough, i'm using the brake to provide a tiny amount of back pressure against the forward pedaling, but havn't been able to maintain it yet really. Hills are cake though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck. sorry for the wall of text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T05:51:24.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="990" CreationDate="2010-11-17T06:08:07.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned how to track stand in a very similar fashion to Victor's posting with fixed gear bicycles. However learning to track stand on a freewheel bike can present a different set of problems than on a fixed gear bicycle. This does not necessarily mean it is harder though.&#xA;The placement of your pedals in relation to your wheels is the same, but with the added challenge of not being able to back pedal. When track standing on level ground, I find that by squeezing the brakes (front or back or both, you will find which suits you) you can resist the forward motion of your pedaling, while at the same time pushing backwards. All this put together will help you keep stationary. An advantage to not being fixed is that you can very easily level out your pedals and keep them in the optimum position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck! and remember, Practice makes perfect, as mentioned earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T06:08:07.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2014" CreationDate="2010-11-17T06:43:02.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Living here in Southern California doesn't make me the best judge of &quot;wet and cold&quot; cycling gear, but I have had a few experiences in heavy downpours. Being low on a budget, I find that it's often easy enough to slip a plastic bag over my socks and then lacing up my shoes, but there is a serious lack of style there, not to mention that your feet can't breath.&#xA;I have found a better alternative to keeping my feet dry regardless of what shoes I happen to wear, but it requires a little bit of work. I happen to be lucky enough to own one of those wooden shoe inserts that help retain the shoes' shape. Anyhow, through layering plastic bags and ironing them together, I was able to make a thicker &quot;fabric&quot; of sorts which was molded to the shape of the inside of my shoe. I also made some that fit over the shoe, and it has done an incredibly good job at keeping my feet dry, on a low budget, with minimal weight increase.&#xA;Another solution which works quite well are neoprene socks which you can wear directly over your feet, or over a few layers of socks. While they are a little pricey, it helps your feet breath and keeps the cold water out. &#xA;And while I have not tried it myself, I hear that shoe covers work just as nicely.&#xA;There are many winter foot wear options so I thought I'd list a few. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T06:43:02.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2010-11-17T07:10:48.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see both sides of the argument for geared bicycles vs. non geared bicycles.&#xA;On one hand, you have more versatility in terrain/speed/ease of pedaling, while on the other you have the beauty of simplicity.&#xA;To answer your question, many SS (single speed) riders argue that because you only have one gear, you have much less maintenance with your bicycle. This means you don't have shift cables to lube or adjust/tune, and you don't have to worry about damaging a derailleur as there isn't one. A damaged derailleur is often a result of dropping a bicycle or banging it against something. You also have the simplicity of not having to choose between various gears. For a rider newer to cycling, this can be beneficial as you are much less likely to &quot;drop&quot; a chain off the chain ring, or be stuck in between gears, or end up in a gear that is either too high or low.&#xA;The only maintenance one might foresee-ably have is cleaning and relubing the chain every other week to keep it in good working order, and checking the chain tension to make sure that the chain stays on properly. &#xA;An SS set up can also be helpful in strength training and cadence training, as it is likely that one won't have it geared perfect for every slope. It may be too big to climb hills easier, therefore strength training, and it may be too small to go all too fast on flat ground, therefore cadence training. &#xA;I hope that this was enough of an objective opinion for you to make a decision&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T07:10:48.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2010-11-17T07:17:46.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is not &quot;waterproof&quot;, polyester is rather water resistant, and I use it whenever it rains to keep dry. It won't protect you from a downpour, but it does a good job at repelling water as it will just roll off. I only mention this because Gore-tex, and E-vent are expensive waterproof materials, and you may find that a simple polyester windbreaker or jacket may be sufficient for you, and more cost effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T07:17:46.507" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-17T07:35:47.500" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2115" CreationDate="2010-11-17T07:37:01.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that I have experience riding on Continental Sport Contacts, I can safely say that they're great tires. 26x1.3 and still have the &quot;slick&quot; look you are going for. On dry land, they corner marvelously, and I have yet to slip out on them. The 80 PSI max is more than sufficient to ride quickly, and I have pushed them to at least 90, so I can say that 80 is just a safe estimate. These tires, do lack a little grip in the rain however, but I guess that's why they're called slicks. As for their flat-resistance, I have yet to get a flat on these tires after 1000 miles for the rubber is rather thick where it contacts the ground.&#xA;I hope that this helps in making your decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below is an example of the Continental Contact 26x1.3 on my Surly Long Haul Trucker (touring) bicycle. Just to give you an idea of how it looks like. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OzmrG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T07:37:01.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2010-11-17T07:39:34.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Foxwear makes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foxwear.net/products_jackets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a great jacket&lt;/a&gt; for fall and spring riding, and you can use it as a layer for winter cycling as well. If I lost mine I'd get another one right away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(They're a US company, is this thread restricted to jackets available in the UK?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T07:39:34.377" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-17T07:39:34.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2000" CreationDate="2010-11-17T07:45:57.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The laws may differ from county to county and state to state, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21201.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as it stands for California&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;V C Section 21201 Equipment Requirements&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(a) No person shall operate a bicycle on a roadway unless it is equipped with a brake which will enable the operator to make one braked wheel skid on dry, level, clean pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By this interpretation, so long as you have a brake that allows you to skid your tires, it is legal for you to ride your bicycle. Some may even argue that riding fixed gear and skidding the rear tire technically makes for a legal brake equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do however feel that this law is lacking, as it is near impossible to skid the front tire with a brake on a level, clean pavement, and a disgruntled officer may use it as an excuse to ticket you, even though it holds 80% of the braking power. But that's another tangent...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T12:48:51.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="990" CreationDate="2010-11-17T14:20:20.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;How do you get to Carniegie Hall...?&quot; - Practice, practice and more practice.  Make sure you attempt it every time you come to a stop, you'll find that you can hold it for longer and longer each time, until you get to the point that you can pretty much stand there for as long as you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an interesting conversation with a woman the other day who called me a crap cyclist (she thought I was about to jump the pedestrial crossing she was going over - I wasn't) - I pointed out to her that I was able to talk to her without having put my feet down...She went a bit quiet after that :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="340" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T14:20:20.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2061" CreationDate="2010-11-17T14:44:34.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean clamping it to the top, hanging down? With the consideration for proper tightening (@dark) aside, I might have less concern if the lock were mounted on the front tube, facing in with the clamp to the top and the weight distributed evenly as space allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T14:44:34.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2142" CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:21:54.203" Score="11" ViewCount="1663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some odd kind of track pedals on my bike. I believe they are clipless pedals; but for description, on one side they are flat and comfortable to pedal with. On the other side there is a raised hump in the middle that is a bit difficult to hop into the pedals quickly for fear of one's foot sliding off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are comfortable enough to ride with once I am off and going (though I have become proficient with nipping the pedal with my toe to get it on the right side). However, I would like to weight the pedals so that they rest with the hump side down naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are similar to these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNz7K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please bear in mind I have already accepted that buying new pedals are probably a best option generally. However, in the interest of modding: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No suggestions are too ugly or odd as&#xA;  long as they work and bear in mind the&#xA;  problem of pedal strike (thanks&#xA;  @Teddy); I am looking for a pragmatic&#xA;  solution above all - hopefully not&#xA;  involving too much duct tape!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastEditorUserId="21" LastEditDate="2010-11-18T14:05:07.257" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T03:14:01.563" Title="How to weight pedals?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-18T14:14:31.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2139" CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:54:40.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just go buy a pair of pedals that suit... that's by far the most sensible option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T15:54:40.560" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-18T14:14:31.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1385" CreationDate="2010-11-18T01:03:54.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of talk about what to use while trail riding, and I find that everyone has their own preferences that they swear by. I have ridden on trails with many combinations of lights so I will try to describe each set up the best I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Niterider Minewt 150 on Handlebar: This setup, with 150 lumens, provided ample light for fire roads, and slower single track type stuff. However, I found that with bmx style jumps, drops, really technical sections, and ridgeline descents, the 150 lumens was lacking. I have scene people bike with less light than this, but I find this to be a little scary as you approach a lot of obstacles rather blindly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 Niterider Minewt 150s on Handlebar: This set up allowed me to direct one light closer and the other further out. The advantage here was that the light shining closer up allowed me to see the terrain I was approaching, whereas the light shining further ahead gave me an idea of what to expect. This set up allowed me to run down the trail much faster. As the lights were mounted next to each other on separate sides of the handlebars, I also gained a little more spill light to the left and right of the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Niteride 150 on handlebars with 600 lumen helmet mount light: I found this to be the best set up as my vision wasn't limited to where my handlebars were pointed. Because the bicycle will bounce around a lot, and you turn your bars to balance, or stay on trail, the light isn't always directed where it may be ideal for you with just a handlebar mount. Having a light on your head/helmet offers a much more steady beam of light pointed wherever you may need it. It becomes much easier to bike in the dark as you are no longer limited by and blindspots and unlit patches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people may argue that the lower the lights are to the ground, the better your perception of bumps and obstacles become as the shadows are cast differently, and run multiple lights on their bars instead. While others I know only run a helmet light.&#xA;With all that said, it is up to you to decide what is right for you. If you are lucky your local bicycle shop may be able to help you decide, or you might be able to borrow some lights from them or a friend. &#xA;I can safely say that you do not want to go less than 150 lumens, though. The more the better. It may also benefit you to understand the throw pattern of the light you are purchasing. Some lights have an intense &quot;spot&quot; type beam, while others have a more diffused flood pattern. Once again, you are going to have see what is best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T01:03:54.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2139" CreationDate="2010-11-18T01:17:08.153" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pedals you have are known as mountain bike clipless pedals. They have a platform side where you can use normal sneakers/shoes to ride, and the other side with the &quot;hump&quot; is the clipless side. There are special shoes with cleats on the bottom that attach to the pedals,and they're there to increase your pedaling capacity by allowing you to pull up on them as well as push down. As for weighting the pedals I wouldn't know how as I don't have the pedals in my hand, but I'm sure that if you were to go to the hardware store with the pedals, you may be able to figure something out. I'm sure that duct taping a weight to the &quot;hump&quot; side would solve your problem, but keep in mind that you are adding mass to the pedals, and it may make contact with the ground (aka pedal strike) during a sharper turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to go to your local bicycle shop and buy some platforms pedals so that you don't have to go through the trouble of modding your pedals, or have the issue of extra weight, or pedal strike. And considering that cheaper platform pedals are around 15-30 dollars, I think it's a worthwhile investment as they'll be functional on both sides, without the trouble of fabricating a weight attachment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T01:17:08.153" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-18T14:14:31.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2144" CreationDate="2010-11-18T02:43:06.067" Score="10" ViewCount="2028" Body="&lt;p&gt;Context:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to remove my rear derailleur so that I can attach an alignment tool and straighten things out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images of the rear derailleur while the bike is upside-down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zooomr.com/z/photos/zoom/9626152/size-8/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.zooomr.com/z/photos/zoom/9626152/size-8/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zooomr.com/z/photos/zoom/9626153/size-8/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.zooomr.com/z/photos/zoom/9626153/size-8/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is the derailleur's hanger's bolt that attaches the derailleur to the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a hex wrench with a long handle (at least as long as the 3-way hex wrench from Park Tools)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn counter-clockwise in the area circled in red by Jerry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="784" LastEditorUserId="784" LastEditDate="2010-11-19T06:19:12.350" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T06:19:12.350" Title="How do I locate and loosen the rear derailleur hanger bolt?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2010-11-18T05:17:33.897" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've put a red circle around the hanger bolt.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/41pgK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T05:17:33.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2147" CreationDate="2010-11-18T10:26:26.963" Score="40" ViewCount="8702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very much an old school cyclist and I always carry a banana with me when I go on rides longer than an hour.  In the past I have found them ideal - they easily fit in my jersey pockets, the wrapping is biodegradable (if I accidentally drop it when riding), high source of potassium to stop muscle cramp.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I change my ways and ditch the bended yellow pill for a more modern fare?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-26T05:18:57.827" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T16:32:19.030" Title="Are bananas still a good food to carry when cycling?" Tags="&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1800" CreationDate="2010-11-18T12:08:44.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem in the UK is that for every well designed useful bike lane there are at least 10 useless bike lanes created that just lead to drivers forcing you of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK bike lanes seems to be a “trick list” item that are mostly not wide enough to be of value and stop as soon as you get to a junction.  There seems to be no willingness to take road space away from motor cars on the sections of roads/junctions that would benefit most from bike lanes as reducing the capacity of a road is unthinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T12:08:44.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2145" CreationDate="2010-11-18T12:39:55.370" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an interesting Q&amp;amp;A on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.independent.co.uk/sport/boosting-role-of-the-banana-1591643.html&quot;&gt;independent.co.uk&lt;/a&gt; (though it dates from 1995) talking about bananas and tennis...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q. Witnessing players at Wimbledon&#xA;  chomping their way through pounds of&#xA;  bananas between games prompts the&#xA;  question: who began this sporting food&#xA;  fad and are there sound nutritional&#xA;  reasons for the players' preference&#xA;  for bananas to other fruit or food. In&#xA;  what other sports (leaving aside lunch&#xA;  and tea breaks in cricket) do the&#xA;  participants eat during the course of&#xA;  play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. The sporting fad for bananas was&#xA;  started by sports nutritionists such&#xA;  as myself. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The banana is rich in&#xA;  carbohydrate - an important source of&#xA;  energy for athletes and has&#xA;  significantly higher levels than any&#xA;  other fruit. Also, unlike most other&#xA;  forms of high-carbohydrate foods, it&#xA;  contains very little fat but is also&#xA;  high in fibre. The combination of&#xA;  fibre with the banana's three natural&#xA;  sugars - fructose, sucrose and glucose&#xA;  - means it provides a sustained boost to flagging energy levels,&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; thus so&#xA;  many players at Wimbledon were seen&#xA;  eating bananas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bananas are also an excellent recovery&#xA;  food for replacing potassium lost in&#xA;  sweating&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, something most players must&#xA;  have been suffering from at this&#xA;  year's tournament. - Jane Griffin,&#xA;  Consultant Nutritionist to the British&#xA;  Olympic Association, London SW17&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it would be good for long bike rides as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T12:39:55.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="498" CreationDate="2010-11-18T15:57:34.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem may be the cable, not the derailleur.  Try replacing the cable and lubing it inside the housing.  Be sure to use a really light oil.  You might also try out the plastic/teflon coated cables that are now available, since they cost only $3 or so anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, be sure to oil the pivot points on the derailleur.  If you look at the design, there are 8 points that flex and allow it to move back and forth.  Oil those points regularly and you'll find things shifting a LOT better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Roy" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T15:57:34.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2010-11-18T17:03:27.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jerry Coffin has correctly displayed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also see it in the context of a bare frame. In the pictured Salsa Fargo, with a black removable derailleur hanger at the rear dropouts, you can see the projection that hangs down with a hole in it. That's what the hanger bolt screws into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEbLi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Salsa fargo frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T17:03:27.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2145" CreationDate="2010-11-18T17:10:09.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are easier to carry than coconuts (although two of you could carry one on a line) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T17:10:09.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="498" CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:04:08.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try some wax-based lube. I picked up a bottle of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedros.com/icewax.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pedro's Ice Wax 2.0&lt;/a&gt;, and it's amazing. Nothing sticks to it. I did a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.darcynorman.net/2010/11/17/winter-bike-gear/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(very quick) writeup&lt;/a&gt; on my experience with it yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T18:04:08.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="498" CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:28:57.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may actually have one of a few problems.&#xA;The problem that comes with biking in the snow/ice is not only moisture, but salt, and other road debris/grime that can get into your chain or derailleur. Leaving your bike outside, covered not, is a guaranteed way to corrode your parts as the moisture in the air gets into your frame, cable housings, bearings, any exposed metal etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention that your freewheel is skipping. If I'm not mistaken, I think you mean that your chain skips between gears on the rear cassette. If this is the case, you have a few things you can do. The first is rather simple, make sure that your shift cables are &quot;in-tune&quot;. There are a few resources online that will help you adjust the cable so it is properly tensioned and you aren't hopping around gears while riding. If they do happen to be in tune, make sure they're properly lubed. A drop of chain lube in the cable housing should do just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue you may have is that your chain has been degraded by the weather you've been riding/storing your bike in. It is very possible that your chain isn't adequately lubed, has rusted, or water/grime may have seeped into the inside of your chain. A good chain cleaning may just solve your problem. There are resources online for that as well. A method I hear highly effective is using a wax-based lubricant as so previously mentioned.&#xA;You can also dip your chain (cleaned thoroughly) in a bath of paraffin wax, and this does a great job at creating a physical barrier for the moisture/road grime/salt. It's a very old school method of chain lubing, but some people swear by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common problem you may have is a &quot;stiff link&quot; in your chain. This is where the chain will not bend past a certain angle because it's either been bent, damaged somehow, or dirty. This can easily be solved by bending the chain at the link forward, back, side to side a few times, with care not to overdo it. And then of course, lubing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also have a loose cassette, if this is the case, you can take it to your local bike shop for a quick tighten up, unless of course you have the tool yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, check that your cables are lubed/tuned. Check that your chain is in good condition (clean, lubed, undamaged), and if all the above fails, or you don't feel like going through the trouble, a good shop will be able to get everything in working order for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T18:28:57.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:58:09.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before buying a new tube, check and see what your problem might be.&#xA;Slow leaks can be caused by a bunch of things. First of which is obviously something making a tiny hole. The next could be that your tube is old/degraded and air simply leaks from it. Or you may have some damage around the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also help to know how often you ride your bike. For some reason that still alludes many cyclists, air just happens to leak out of your tire quicker when you're not riding it. Compare your tire pressure after riding everyday, to having put the bike down for a week or two. There's a significant difference in pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, on to business. Remove your tire from the rim, and check all along the inside of the tire, as well as the sidewalls of the tire to see if you feel anything sharp, or piercing into the tire, as this could be causing your air leak. &#xA;Check if the edges of your rim are sharp, and check to see that your tire isn't pinching your tube. I also recommend checking your tube for any holes.&#xA;I suggest pumping your tube (outside of the tire) up until it expands beyond its expected size. There is no harm in doing this. The more pressure inside the tube the easier it will be to hear the air escaping. Of course if you don't hear any air escaping it will help to place it in water and look for bubbles, and like someone else said before, move your tube around, bend it in different shapes as some holes are so small, or in such a fashion that they only show under those conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T18:58:09.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2145" CreationDate="2010-11-18T21:17:45.100" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Real food like bananas are better than processed food any day. Don't ditch old school foods. Remember when they said that margarine was better for you than butter? 30 years later, they find out trans-fats are bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The banana stands the test of time. Gel packs and bars won't. Keep at it brother!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="790" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T11:27:52.667" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T11:27:52.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="512" CreationDate="2010-11-18T22:29:03.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really should read Shelton Brown's site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He was a great resource for the bike community (RIP) and you have some common threads with him.  He talks about tandeming, which would be an option for you.  A note on the bike having to fit in the car, it is possible to get racks for the tandem, it doesn't have to be transported in the car.  www.sheldonbrown.com/tandem/index.html&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option that Shelton Brown can also speak to is the trike.  He had one before he died and has an write-up on it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/org/greenspeed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.sheldonbrown.com/org/greenspeed/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="496" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-19T01:15:07.720" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T01:15:07.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2120" CreationDate="2010-11-19T03:11:59.290" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;When building or truing a wheel, it's easier to notice if you put a twist in to a flat spoke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T03:11:59.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2010-11-19T04:34:30.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the same niggling feeling myself, yes our bike lights are better than 20 years ago and the frame is a 'nicer' type of aluminium but that's not much. A cross over vehicle that takes the best from the HPV world and the best from the cycling world would rock. The role of the UCI in restricting aerodynamic innovation is probably to blame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="791" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T04:34:30.027" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-19T04:34:30.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2167" CreationDate="2010-11-19T06:13:54.413" Score="5" ViewCount="2654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike that I take out to a local bike trail. Currently I have some thin XC tyres and they don't seem to offer much grip when going at speed. The trail is 80% downhill and mostly loose gravel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tyre type would you recommend for loose gravel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="792" LastActivityDate="2010-11-20T08:18:19.123" Title="Tyre choice for loose gravel" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2064" CreationDate="2010-11-19T13:11:37.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many improvements already exist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;everything in the hubs (dynamos, brakes, gears)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dynamicbicycles.com/chainless/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chainless transmisison&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.com/gbl/en/produkte/tour_city/produkt/?ID_Produktgruppe=36&amp;amp;ID_Produkt=134&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;puncture-free tires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recumbent_bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recumbent bikes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, many equipments are available today that didn't exist 25 years ago, especially for carrying things and people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T13:11:37.503" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-19T13:11:37.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2166" CreationDate="2010-11-19T16:31:27.603" Score="17" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;What checks should you perform before setting off to ensure that your bike is safe to ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm more interesting in mountain bikes rather ride road bikes but I guess that most checks are applicable to both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-20T20:59:46.280" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T16:42:48.597" Title="Pre ride checks" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;reference&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2161" CreationDate="2010-11-19T18:18:55.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My pre-ride check is to sit down with my bike and do some maintenance on it the night before a big ride. Clean and lube and adjust and tighten. Just go over everything. Think about what noises it has been making, whether the derailleur needs adjustment, are the brakes too firm or too soft, and so on. The more time you spend with your bike, the happier you and it will be. As you work on one thing, you might notice something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that helps is to do this with a friend. My friends will point out things about my bike that I never noticed before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you don't have all that much time, check your brakes, check your chain condition, check your quick releases. As long as those are good and you have a spare tube, I don't see what could stop ya!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="790" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-21T18:16:24.227" LastActivityDate="2010-11-21T18:16:24.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2139" CreationDate="2010-11-19T18:19:12.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know how some pedals have reflectors attached to the front and back of the pedal? Put a weight in the same position as the front reflector would be when the pedals are right-side-up. That way, the pedal will normally rest with the front edge down, and you can place your foot on it with a slight backwards motion to be sure to stand on the good side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the weight at the front of the pedal lets the weight be smaller than if it was on the bottom of the pedal since it's further from the axis of rotation. It won't decrease your ground clearance and it's less likely to get scraped off, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="rwitt" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T18:19:12.260" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-19T18:19:12.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2161" CreationDate="2010-11-19T18:39:26.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to think about - before a long ride, don't make any &lt;em&gt;major&lt;/em&gt; changes - don't adjust your seat height or angle, replace your stem, or anything like that.  Nothing like trying to fix something kinda minor the night before a long ride, to find out you made it so much worse the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T18:39:26.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2161" CreationDate="2010-11-19T19:23:10.253" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate tires to optimal pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check Brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold handlebars and kick/twist front wheel. - Makes sure headset and stem aren't loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think those are whats needed to make sure your bike is safe to ride. If anything else breaks while you are riding you should be able safely stop and deal with whatever situation arises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some more things you should check every time prior to every ride in extreme weather conditions, but I think those three are universal to all bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good to check out other areas from time to time or even every time, but I think those are the &quot;mission critical&quot; things to check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-20T21:00:48.430" LastActivityDate="2010-11-20T21:00:48.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2159" CreationDate="2010-11-19T20:10:12.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For loose gravel, I believe what you want is &lt;strong&gt;big, wide tires&lt;/strong&gt; that you run at a relatively low pressure.  I don't think knobs will help much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wider the tire, the more it will press the loose gravel down instead of pressing through it. If the gravel is pressed down it will tend to stay more in place.  Also, if some of it shifts, a wider tire will be more likely to have grip on something that isn't shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think knobs would help unless the gravel's fine enough that the knobs are larger than the gravel pieces: they'd tend to push the pieces of gravel out of place just as you roll over them, which isn't what you want to have happen.  And unless the gaps between knobs are the size of the gravel pieces or larger the knobs won't really grab onto the gravel pieces, either. Probably don't hurt much, though, especially if they're more to the side of the tread pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take into account that you'll always have an upper traction limit of the gravel's friction against the gravel under it, which can be quite low, especially with smooth rounded pebbles that can roll over each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T20:10:12.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2159" CreationDate="2010-11-20T08:18:19.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it would be to your benefit to find out the width of your fork and chain-stays. That way you can determine the size of tires that your bike will accommodate. Generally speaking, the larger the tire, the larger the contact area it will have with the gravel. Also keep in mind that tire pressure will play a role. The lower the pressure the more grip you will have, and the higher your pressure, the more likely the tire is to dig into the gravel and slip, rather than roll over it. In general, the bigger the tire, the lower the pressure, the better your grip in mud/sand/gravel. This does however, come at the sacrifice of speed and an increase in rolling resistance, but considering you're going downhill, it shouldn't matter too much. I am under the impression that because you're riding cx tires, that your bike is rigid. You shouldn't be expecting the same kind of traction you might get with a full suspension bike, as you're mostly hopping over the terrain, rather than tracking it with your wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dQA1U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at how wide those tires are. They're 3.7 inches, and designed to roll over sand, gravel, and even snow. These are specialized tires, but they help give an idea of what you should be leaning towards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2010-11-20T08:18:19.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2010-11-20T19:31:49.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Connecticut you can be fined for breaking the speed within city limits. The laws are to protect pedestrians and a bike that cannot stop in a timely manner can cause equal outcome...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="798" LastActivityDate="2010-11-20T19:31:49.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-21T20:48:18.557" Score="85" ViewCount="4557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually ride a bicycle in Barcelona. I'm concerned about pollution and I take an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.discountbicycles.co.uk/biz/product.php/1559/respro_techno_mask&quot;&gt;anti-pollution mask&lt;/a&gt;. Of course, some people scream because they confuse me with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hannibal_Lecter&quot;&gt;Hannibal Lecter&lt;/a&gt; but currently that's not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot of opinions about this: &quot;don't care because pollution it's not harmful&quot;, &quot;that masks make no sense&quot; and so on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you know about cycling and pollution? What about masks, are they effective at blocking pollution? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I think objective/documented answers are the most useful. Please, try to avoid &quot;I think that...&quot;, &quot;my opinion is...&quot; answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="8643" LastEditDate="2013-11-24T22:09:36.737" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T21:06:07.003" Title="Is pollution a problem in urban cycling?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;pollution&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2010-11-21T21:54:28.817" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exposure while cycling is generally no worse than being in a vehicle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In fact can be better depending on the weather and the amount of solvents in the plastic of your car.&#xA;You do experience more when cycling heavily - simply because you breath more - but general medical evidence is that the benefits of increased fitness greatly outweigh any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mask probably helps if you cycle behind buses (it will stop some pm10s but it does nothing for ozone or other chemical pollutants)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17050389&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle messengers: energy expenditure and exposure to air pollution&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ehp.niehs.nih.gov/0901622/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Commuters’ Exposure to Particulate Matter Air Pollution Is Affected  by Mode of Transport, Fuel Type, and Route&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T03:25:40.310" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T03:25:40.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2173" CreationDate="2010-11-21T23:34:28.783" Score="13" ViewCount="3514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard about a local club holding a kermesse race, and I was wondering what exactly they were?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="106" LastEditDate="2010-11-22T01:49:47.963" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T14:34:59.523" Title="What is a kermesse race?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2172" CreationDate="2010-11-22T00:12:25.650" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a big fan of this type of answer, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kermesse_%28Bicycle_Race%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia has a pretty good definition of it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The races are usually 90-140&#xA;  kilometers in total length. While some&#xA;  are longer or shorter, most are about&#xA;  120 kilometers. The race is comprised&#xA;  of a set distance and number of laps&#xA;  over the established course[2]. There&#xA;  are typically 10 to 20 laps, of&#xA;  between 5 and 10 kilometers. The race&#xA;  usually begins and ends in the center&#xA;  of the town which is hosting the day's&#xA;  race. The race will occupy the roads&#xA;  in town as well as the roads&#xA;  surrounding, either city streets or&#xA;  farmland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The course usually has a rolling&#xA;  enclosure. This means that while the&#xA;  race is not passing through, the&#xA;  streets are open to traffic. A&#xA;  designated car, usually with a caution&#xA;  sign and a red flag, leads the riders&#xA;  and close the cross streets to&#xA;  traffic. A following car, usually with&#xA;  signs and a green flag, open the&#xA;  streets back up to traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The kermesse is similar to the&#xA;  criterium but differs primarily in&#xA;  total course length and lap length.&#xA;  While a criterium traditionally last&#xA;  60-90 minutes, a kermesse will often&#xA;  take 120-180 minutes. A single lap in&#xA;  a criterium is usually less than 5&#xA;  kilometers while the kermesse is&#xA;  usually 5-10 kilometers per lap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the link for info on payouts and UCI information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-11-22T12:12:20.500" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T12:12:20.500" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2181" CreationDate="2010-11-22T05:08:02.303" Score="14" ViewCount="14651" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I tell how worn my disc brakes are and what are the consequences of letting them wear too low?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="792" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T13:37:46.297" Title="How to tell when disc brakes are worn?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2177" CreationDate="2010-11-22T05:39:34.263" Score="11" ViewCount="4356" Body="&lt;p&gt;How fast do you need to be going to get an effective slipstream on a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="792" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T21:12:19.000" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T21:12:19.000" Title="How fast do you need to be going to get an effective slipstream on a bike?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;&lt;drafting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2010-11-22T06:59:48.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not necessarily how fast you go, but how closely you are following the person cycling in front of you. The closer you follow, the more likely you are to trail in the wind they have helped part for you. The effects of this feel greater the faster you and the other person is traveling. The effectiveness of the slipstream is relative to the speed and distance you follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="781" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T06:59:48.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2010-11-22T07:04:24.837" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.  I don't know of any scientific research to support an actual speed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The main factors are the speed of the wind that you are riding in, and the size of your shield (i.e. the bunny in front who is giving you the wind break - the bigger the better) and how closely you follow.  In still conditions I find that even at about 24km/hr (15mph) I will notice after half an hour or so that I have not worked as hard had I been riding out the front.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If there is a raging head wind then virtually any speed will find you having a noticeable advantage in the slipstream.  Just try being out for a while at the same speed and you will feel the difference in your heart rate and muscle output.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The size of your shield also helps.  Being in a large bunch effectively increases the size of the shield, though it is not a linear increase, but rather a diminishing one. That is, as you go from say two riders to 5 riders you get a fair increase in advantage , but going to 10 riders only gives you a small increase in advantage over 5 riders.  The third factor of distance is not as important I feel, provider you are within one to two feet and are not going at top racing speeds. As you go faster the distance at which you get an advantage increases.  Of course the maximum advantage is obtained when you are within millimetres of the wheel in front, which is why track racers ride so close, but then you increase you risk to touching wheels and having a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="106" LastEditDate="2010-11-22T07:13:14.907" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T07:13:14.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2010-11-22T08:34:02.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, there was a point where studies (too long ago for me to even begin to remember sources) suggested that cyclists were probably &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; affected by pollution because, as a consequence of the regular exercise they were taking, their lungs were more efficient and so needed less air (and hence pollutants) to get the same oxygen. This was perhaps somewhat mitigated by being outside rather than in a box with filtered air (and the filtering has got more efficient).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means in practical terms - if the studies were right - is that you don't need to be specifically concerned as a cyclist but that doesn't mean that air quality isn't an issue you should be concerned about as an inhabitant of or visitor to a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T08:34:02.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2010-11-22T09:42:57.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along similar lines as @Murph suggests cyclists are often less affected than vehicle passengers because the air intakes on most cars are placed lower to the ground than most cyclists' noses (recumbent riders take note ...). Many of the nasties, particularly particulate matter, sink and aren't at the higher levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've always struggled to breath enough through a mask so you end up taking great gulps of air when you stop at junctions - and these are the places with recognisably higher levels of pollution! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T09:42:57.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2010-11-22T12:14:30.030" Score="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rank, Folke and Jespersen (2001), &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0048-9697%2801%2900758-6&quot;&gt;Differences in cyclists and car drivers exposure to air pollution from traffic in the city of Copenhagen&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, &lt;em&gt;The Science of The Total Environment&lt;/em&gt;, 279:131-136&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;teams of two cyclists and two car drivers in two cars were equipped with personal air samplers while driving for 4 hours on 2 different days in the morning traffic of Copenhagen. The air sample charcoal tubes were analysed for their benzene, toluene, ethylbenzene and xylene (BTEX) content and the air filters for particles (total dust). The concentrations of particles and BTEX in the cabin of the cars were 2–4 times greater than in the cyclists’ breathing zone, the greatest difference being for BTEX. Therefore, even after taking the increased respiration rate of cyclists into consideration, &lt;strong&gt;car drivers seem to be more exposed to airborne pollution than cyclists&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="756" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-23T20:01:50.270" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T20:01:50.270" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2174" CreationDate="2010-11-22T12:25:22.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends if your brakes have some kind of adjustment for the brake pads' position or not. An adjustment for &quot;the point in the lever’s throw where the brake actually engages&quot; (from Avid's description of their Contact-Point Adjustment system) can have similar effect. If they don't, they're worn out when you have to smash your brake levers all the way down to have any kind of breaking (but you could figure that out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can adjust the pads' position, which is good because you can use your pads longer, then what you have to check is that the area showed in the picture (I couldn't find a word to describe it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9tqR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;isn't used all the way up to the metal plate (the copper part of the brake in the previous picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do you tell how worn they are? By comparing to their original thickness. The pads use up quite linearly (Observation, I have nothing to back this up)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consequence of letting them wear too low is that if you brake without any &quot;breaking surface&quot; left on your pads, the metal bits could get stuck somewhere and ruin your disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-11-22T13:41:26.050" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T13:41:26.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2010-11-22T13:09:44.467" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a bike almost everyday not in very clean city - Kharkov, UA.&#xA;And had similar problem as you have. My decision was: breathe in by nose, breathe out by mouth. It's easier than doing this by nose only, and safer for lungs when breathe just by mouth.&#xA;I'll explain:&#xA;Mouth is not very good defended from a polluted air.&#xA;But in nose we have small hairs that keep all the dust that comes through with the air. That's why we have to take out a lot of snots after any outdoor walk/ride in a polluted city. And it's ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's conclude:&#xA;1. Don't cut a hair from nose;&#xA;2. Breathe in by nose, breathe out by mouth;&#xA;3. rinse out mouth and clean up nose after a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="804" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T13:09:44.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2161" CreationDate="2010-11-22T16:42:48.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I check all the fasteners on the bike and my shoes.  I've had a cleat come loose during a ride, as well as a cable come out because of a loose connection.  These things work loose over time, best to torque properly before each ride (or once a week once they start to take a set and stay tight).  Invest in a decent Snap-On (or similar) torque screwdriver, with bits to fit your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T16:42:48.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2185" CreationDate="2010-11-22T19:32:03.833" Score="18" ViewCount="41654" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend called me up yesterday after a mis-adventure during his attempt at a bottom bracket overhaul. He stripped out the threads on the (left) crank arm while using a Park crank puller. In a pinch, we rented an automotive gear puller but could not get enough purchase for that to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on this? Especially a way that will not ruin the crank arm. (I know, the crank arm is now ruined in terms of future removal, but in the meantime with a bottom bracket overhaul and without any further damage, it'll get him through another season's commute.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 12/31/2011&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;This question was asked over a year ago now, so problem solved at that time. Followed the advice by whatsisname and we got the crank arm to loosen by slowly riding around the block a few times. Once it was loose, we were able to finish the job using some strategic tapping with a padded dead blow hammer. Then replaced/rebuilt the entire crankset and bottom bracket. (The thing was trashed beyond the removal issues...)&lt;/em&gt; The recent additional answers may be of use to others who find themselves in a similar predicament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-01-02T20:10:59.313" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T08:57:33.437" Title="How to remove a crank arm with stripped threads?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2184" CreationDate="2010-11-22T20:06:45.337" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your crank arm is trashed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the crank bolt removed, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; ride around a few miles, it should work itself loose enough that you can yank it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise many shops have basically a slightly larger crank puller for addressing this issue, where they chase out a larger set of threads, then use the larger puller to get it off. The crank arm typically goes into the garbage at that point however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T20:06:45.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2174" CreationDate="2010-11-22T22:09:38.323" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to replace your pads when they are about 3mm thick including the backing plate. You should be able to see how thick they are with your wheels off but you might need to remove them from the callipers to be sure. See the manufacturers site for details of how to remove and fit the pad - its normally an easy job.s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need to change the pads on hydraulic brakes you need to make sure the pistons are all the way back, otherwise there won't be enough of a gap between the pads and the disc. Its best to do this while the old pads are fitted by using a flat bladed screwdriver to push them apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to remember is that the new pads will need &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2193/why-how-should-i-bed-in-disc-brake-pads&quot;&gt;bedding in&lt;/a&gt; before you use them in anger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do wear the pads all the way down they won't stop you very well and they will make a mess of your discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T13:37:46.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2184" CreationDate="2010-11-23T07:02:09.617" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A similar idea to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/683/whatsisname&quot;&gt;whatsisname&lt;/a&gt;'s: Use a rubber mallet to tap on both sides of the crank arm, alternating between the inside &amp;amp; outside, so as to work the arm loose.  The hits do not have to be brutal, but with enough force to get some movement happening so that the arm is loosened.  Put more force on inside face, since you are trying to take the arm off, and only a light tap on the outside face.  This method has the advantage of not having to get on the bike and risk an accident should the arm come off unexpectedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T15:18:18.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2191" CreationDate="2010-11-23T07:10:52.463" Score="16" ViewCount="7571" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter is growing fast, and will soon be too big for the child seat that is on the back of my bike.  She is not yet ready to ride on the road, so I am thinking of purchasing a &quot;tag-along&quot; bike.  What features should I look for, and are there anything to look out for?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDfxL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T23:09:47.317" Title="What should I look for in a &quot;trailer bike&quot;/&quot;tag-along&quot; bike for a child?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;children&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2192" CreationDate="2010-11-23T09:40:23.353" Score="6" ViewCount="3247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a pair of folding, &lt;em&gt;orange&lt;/em&gt; training tires, size should be 700x23C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to have only an orange stripe, not the whole tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend some model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T14:53:16.083" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T14:53:16.083" Title="Looking for orange tyres" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2188" CreationDate="2010-11-23T10:47:42.000" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that it does not answer your question directly, but there is an alternative to the trailer bike that you could consider as well. It is bicycle tow bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one that is available on the market is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trail-gator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trail-Gator&lt;/a&gt;. They can be bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Trailgator-Towbar-16-20-Wheel-Bikes/dp/B0011HZKI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;s=sports&amp;amp;qid=1278683326&amp;amp;sr=1-1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;for under £45 from amazon&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fqoSV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trail-gator.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.trail-gator.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works reasonably well, it is not that stable as a good quality trailer bike but works pretty well for shorter journeys. I personally find it ideal as I would be cycling mostly on the quiet roads or in parks, where my daughter would be cycling on her own, but to get there we need to cycle on a busy road and that is where I would have her bike attached to the tow bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to buy it make sure you fit it tight and check it after first and probably each ride to make sure that it does not get loose, but that probably applies to any type of trailer bike as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the child bike mount (Receiver Kit) is a bit rough so if you daughter bike has an aluminium frame, make sure to put some padding between the mount and the frame (I used an old slick tyre) to avoid any damage to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycletow.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a link to a shop in Australia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastEditorUserId="83" LastEditDate="2010-11-24T20:47:31.630" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T20:47:31.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2188" CreationDate="2010-11-23T12:47:50.740" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of of trailer-bikes are pretty similar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One speed. An inexperienced child will struggle to keep up when you pick up speed. She will also not be able to help much on the steep climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No brakes. Your hands do a lot of work, and your stopping distance is longer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;BMX-style handlebar that can rock back and forth, as child size/shape changes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attaches to tractor-bike's seat post. When you turn left, the trailer will lean right.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flexy. As your kid gets heavier, this can make slowly climbing a steep hill really hard. You can't go straight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that it was really good for teaching my son how to pedal, and build the appropriate muscles, so he was at an advantage on his own bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flex was not an issue when we started, but a couple years later I had to retire the trailer. I couldn't track a straight line up a hill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some models have 5 speeds. That's more complexity, but if it breaks you can still get home. It can help a kid learn about shifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Burley Piccolo attaches to a special rack, making it lean properly in turns and supposedly reducing flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to hitch on a standard 2-wheel trailer to my tandem-trailer, either to carry groceries or to pull my baby twins. We had 5 wheels, 4 people, were 16' long, and weight 400+ lbs. I had to take corners carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T12:47:50.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2189" CreationDate="2010-11-23T13:33:15.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the Michelin Pro 3. 700 x 23c, folding bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtMVc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/michelin-pro3-race-tire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/michelin-pro3-race-tire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T13:33:15.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5564" CreationDate="2010-11-23T13:36:57.017" Score="15" ViewCount="15469" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why should I bed in my disc brake pads and what's the best way to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T09:57:55.560" Title="Why/How should I bed in disc brake pads?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2193" CreationDate="2010-11-23T13:59:14.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for bedding them in is to get the proper performance and lifetime out of them that they were designed for.  The process should be specified by the manufacturer.  It will vary based on the pad's materials/design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T13:59:14.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2227" CreationDate="2010-11-23T16:22:43.690" Score="4" ViewCount="1674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was planning on doing my winter training this year on a mountain bike (for ergonomic reasons), but it occurred to me that the skewer for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://trekmountain.typepad.com/king/2007/08/abp-explained.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Active Braking Pivot&lt;/a&gt; on my Top Fuel might not be work well. In the below pic, you can see the metal flange which would sit in the trainer, I'm worried about it getting bent or otherwise damaged (I'm ~205lbs/94kg). For those not familiar with ABP, there's a pin that moves through the channel you can see at the end, which allows you to unscrew the skewer (the end cap is attached to the frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VqDpN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ABP&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had experience with using an ABP bike on a trainer, specifically with long-term regular use? I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackburndesign.com/trainers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blackburn fluid trainer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2010-11-24T01:02:33.443" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T10:08:49.197" Title="Using a bike with Trek ABP on a trainer" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2188" CreationDate="2010-11-23T21:13:06.137" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tag-along trailers are nice because they allow your child to PARTICIPATE in what we all know is a great experience--a bike ride.  The problems with tag-alongs are listed in Jay's response.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the WEEHOO is hella cool.  It's similar in function to the tag-along trailer that you mentioned, but the child's position is RECUMBENT.  The child sits lower on a WeeHoo than on other tag-alongs which is better for balance.  There are pedals so the kid can feel like he/she's helping.  If the little one gets tired of pedalling, they can sit back and fall asleep!  It's great for little kids.  Our LBS carries this.  It is also on the web at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weehoobicycletrailer.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.weehoobicycletrailer.com/&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T21:13:06.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2199" CreationDate="2010-11-23T21:40:34.930" Score="35" ViewCount="2027" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike and I are fairly visible at night--white light in front, red light in the back, bright yellow fenders, reflective tabs and a light on my helmet.  I use hand signals to alert motorists when I'm turning... but I don't think they can see my hands in the dark.  Is there anything different I should do when I'm signalling a turn in an unlit place?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T11:36:49.280" Title="How can I be visible in the dark when I'm signalling a turn?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;visibility&gt;&lt;signals&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2010-11-23T22:14:27.770" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting reflective bands on your sleeves can help make your movements visible. They don't need to be attached permanently: a second pair of trouser clips works very well when strapped around your cuffs, or possibly the cuffs of your gloves if you're wearing big winter gloves. Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ronhill-vizion-snapband/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ron Hill snap bands&lt;/a&gt; (there are lots of equivalent products with different names) are very visible, take up next to no space when you're off the bike, don't encumber your wrists or get uncomfortable, and take only a few seconds to put on when you set off. You might even find your local road safety organization gives away bands like these at events, so they don't have to cost anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wearing reflective (or at least brightly coloured) gloves is also pretty good. Other than that it's all about being extremely cautious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T06:09:30.380" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T06:09:30.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2010-11-23T22:17:09.700" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I should imagine you should be looking for some reflective gloves. Or even some glo gloves&#xA;Check these out as an example ...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lifehacker.com/395978/glo-gloves-reflective-cycling-gear&quot;&gt;http://lifehacker.com/395978/glo-gloves-reflective-cycling-gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also using a good reflective jacket that has good reflective strips down the arms is useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="792" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T22:17:09.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2201" CreationDate="2010-11-23T22:26:36.883" Score="7" ViewCount="1232" Body="&lt;p&gt;After completing a long mountain biking trail (complete with lots mud and water etc) - what post ride checks / tasks should I be doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this because I don't want to be taking my bike into a shop to be fixed just because I've not been maintaining it properly after a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="792" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-11-23T22:29:15.320" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T10:54:12.357" Title="mountain biking - post ride tasks" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2200" CreationDate="2010-11-23T22:32:23.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean everything up and lubricate your chain. Wash the suspension and make sure the seals are fine. If you have a rear suspension pay attention to the pivots. For the rest it will pretty much be covered in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2161/pre-ride-checks&quot;&gt;pre-ride check&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the questions tagged &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/tags/cleaning/hot&quot;&gt;cleaning&lt;/a&gt; here on Bicycles SE to read some interesting information on how to clean different parts of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T22:32:23.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="835" CreationDate="2010-11-23T23:41:12.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I honestly don't think that &lt;em&gt;looking unsafe&lt;/em&gt; is a good solution to avoid collisions with motor vehicles. Mainly because I think that making the effort to &lt;em&gt;look unsafe&lt;/em&gt; would distract a rider's attention from actually using safe riding practices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to Ken Kifer's Bike Pages with an excellent article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/traffic/accident.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Avoid Traffic Accidents&lt;/a&gt;. In his analysis of bike/car collisions he offers tips and practices on how to avoid the common types of accidents. Not one of his solutions for avoidance involves &lt;em&gt;looking unsafe&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The info on Ken Kifer's site is based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/publications/research/safety/pedbike/96104/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;A Crash-Type Manual for Bicyclists&lt;/em&gt; by Carol Tan&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two more links from Ken Kifer's site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cyclist caused accidents: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/traffic/car-bike.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/traffic/car-bike.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Motorist caused accidents: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/traffic/bike-car.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/traffic/bike-car.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-11-24T00:04:02.090" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T00:04:02.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2200" CreationDate="2010-11-24T04:10:41.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rinse your bike off.  There is usually a hose close to the trail head/end that you can use.   Be careful how you aim the spray around your suspensions.  You don't want to aim down in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you clean the cassette and chain.  That was an expensive mistake i made by not doing so. I usually do this at home because i remove all the oil and dirt with a spray foam degreaser and toothbrush type implement. But, remember to oil the chain after it dries. Clean your brakes with rubbing alcohol too (if you have disc brakes).  I get my spray foam degreaser at the local auto parts store.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="813" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T04:10:41.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2214" CreationDate="2010-11-24T05:24:18.420" Score="10" ViewCount="5737" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago, the derailer on my touring bike caught on the chain and ripped itself off the frame. (See the link below for more info on the incident.) The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spokeprotector&quot;&gt;spoke protector&lt;/a&gt; was cracked in half by this, which says to me that it did its job: stopping the derailer and chain from damaging the spokes. (The wheel was out of alignment and needed truing, but it still rotated.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, these &quot;dork discs&quot; or &quot;pie plates&quot; (as some like to call them) are going on all my bikes. My question: Aside from looks and the weight, is there any downside to having one of these on a bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spokeprotector&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown on Spoke Protectors&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?696475-Derailer-torn-in-half-while-touring&quot;&gt;More detail about the incident where my derailer broke&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For fun: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesnobnyc.blogspot.com/2008/04/pie-in-sky-world-without-spoke.html&quot;&gt;Pie In The Sky: A World Without Spoke Protectors&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2020-05-27T01:13:11.253" Title="Is there a downside to spoke protectors?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-24T05:52:20.690" Score="10" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a fairly urban setting and there are plenty of cars around when it gets past dark. The main point of having a bicycle light/backlight (I contend) is not for &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; to see, its for &lt;em&gt;others&lt;/em&gt; to see you. Besides just using lights, there are plenty of other reflective Doohickeys that purport to make you visible at night. (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/296/how-can-i-make-my-bike-and-myself-visible-at-night&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thread for an example)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice this works just fine in relatively suburban or lightly trafficked areas. Where an extra light on the road &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; stand out and people notice a bike rider. However, I live in a fairly urban area, and down-town is saturated with light that a dincky bike light will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; stand out in the crowd. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've experienced this both from the POV of a driver and of a cyclist. Just today I was driving downtown and almost hit a biker with the notorious right hook. Luckily we didn't make any contact, but afterwards I recognized why I didn't notice him even though he was wearing a reflective vest and had a decently bright light. His light made him blend in &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; with the backdrop of downtown. The oversaturated lighting of downtown desensitized me to certain visual cues that usually would tip me off to the presence of a biker or a car (i.e. their glaring lights in my mirrors). If I was driving down a darkish residential street I would have noticed him right away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are some good tips on biking at night in urbanized areas, where there are more than just a few cars out after dusk. More specifically, what can you do (that you normally wouldn't do during the day) and &lt;em&gt;besides making yourself brighter&lt;/em&gt; that would make your night ride safer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T02:10:01.283" Title="Night Riding With Heavy Traffic" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2209" CreationDate="2010-11-24T06:45:47.980" Score="50" ViewCount="39043" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any real difference between the cheap and expensive cycling helmets? Is it really worth buying a helmet at say 3 or 4 times the price of a cheap helmet? Will that helmet really give you 3 or 4 times more protection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="792" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T23:20:37.253" LastActivityDate="2019-06-14T01:08:11.737" Title="What's the real difference between cheap and expensive helmets?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2010-11-24T07:27:16.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the brightness? At night in urban traffic, I seriously &lt;strong&gt;ramp up alertness&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The cyclist must always be on the lookout for idiots, cell phone users, dreamers, jerks, and bigots. The cyclist has excellent visibility and can see everything. To that must be added an instant readiness to respond to bad moves, and I've had motorists make them all.&quot; Quoted from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/traffic/traffic.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/traffic/traffic.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one other tip: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ride as if you were invisible&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;It's often helpful to ride in such a way that motorists won't hit you even if they don't see you. You're not trying to be invisible, you're trying to make it irrelevant whether cars see you or not.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I frequently ride after dark. The number one thing that has saved me in close calls is alertness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-11-30T02:10:01.283" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T02:10:01.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2207" CreationDate="2010-11-24T07:37:58.550" Score="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, usually expensive helmets are lighter and more comfortable because have more ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you plan to ride for long hours it's better to buy the more expensive helmet that you can afford, otherwise - for short rides - a cheap helmet will do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T07:37:58.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2207" CreationDate="2010-11-24T12:38:26.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the manufacturers trade on that, but would you trust a helmet that cost a meagre amount? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more expensive helmets are generally sculpted and designed to have more ventilation, be lighter, be more adjustable, be more comfortable, but ultimately, do you trust them to do the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wear a helmet because when I race I have to and when I commute I'm under personal pressure to wear one. (To be fair I did recently have a crash and my forehead would have looked worse had I not been wearing one - it at least protected me from a longer cut.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I spent more money because I wanted light and comfortable, but I also figure that something that costs the same as a big lunch cannot have been designed, tested and built properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T12:38:26.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-24T12:51:41.083" Score="10" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Australia there was recently a change to to bicycle helmet standards as outlined in AS/NZS 2063:2008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, helmets complying to the 1996 version of the standard will soon become illegal to sell in Australia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a helmet with the 1996 standard because it's cheaper now (due to stock clearance), but I don't know if it will be any less safe? Not that I put too much trust in these standards anyway ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; skeptical as to whether the new standard will be safer in use, because virtually no useful information is given to the public as to what the changes actually are. Furthermore, these are laws being passed by bureaucrats who seemingly have very little idea of the actual science behind these standards! To make matters even worse, they do not differentiate between helmets for different cycling uses e.g. mountain bike vs. road, and throw seemingly arbitrary numbers around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned buying a helmet of an older standard or do you think this just silly bureaucracy in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="549" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T05:42:31.553" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T05:42:31.553" Title="Should I be concerned about new helmet laws?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;australia&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2010-11-24T14:26:04.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read in an issue of a mountain bike magazine (sorry I can't remember the issue or even the magazine), that helmets afford somewhat limited protection.  That is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to say that you shouldn't wear a helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The study showed that helmets can &lt;em&gt;worsen&lt;/em&gt; head injury in crashes involving torque to the brain (i.e. rotational injury). Rotational injury is not like the relatively benign bleeding from simply a scraped scalp (though no head injury should be taken lightly!). Since the brain is not perfectly round but elongated, rotation can happen more easily at a pivot point. Torque injuries are the source of the most serious brain injuries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the study seemed to suggest that helmets are most effective at protecting you in high speed crashes and crashes into sharp objects, which is particularly important in mountain biking. At medium to low speed crashes, the helmet's effectiveness was in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other non-mountain bike specific studies seem to have shown the frequency of head injuries compared to other types of injuries is rare. The statistics can matter in deciding if helmets should be mandatory because if you also have comparable amount of spinal injuries then you could argue that it should be law to wear back braces like those DH mountain bikers wear, even on the road! As a consequence, it is understandable why some people think helmets are an arbitrary requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But those studies also need to take into account in what &lt;em&gt;environment&lt;/em&gt; these injuries take place. E.g. in Amsterdam and most European countries no one wears helmets but bicycles and cars move much slower and because of their infrastructure they do not have to meddle with cars as much. It's a different story in places like USA and Australia where there is little or no separation between bicycles and cars, and cars move very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I always wear a helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="549" LastEditorUserId="549" LastEditDate="2010-11-24T14:41:07.000" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T14:41:07.000" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-24T14:26:04.850" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2010-11-24T14:27:29.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, since the most valuable thing about you is your brain... take that in to consideration.  Also, on a side note -once you've crashed and made impact on the helmet - you should discard and buy a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would not be scared to buy a cheap one on clearance - there are many riders who will wait til they wear out, damage, or just get tired of their current helmet before buying a new one.  But I won't say this is the best decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One BIG thing I would make sure of is that using the old helmet doesn't effect your insurance coverage.  For example, in America, military personnel must wear proper safety gear or they may lose long-term benefits.  That's why you can always spot a military person on a motorcycle or bicycle.  They have helmets, gloves, reflective vests, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know my insurance long-term benefits has language in coverage (or lack of) about &quot;dangerous&quot; activities and not taking proper precautions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T14:27:29.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2205" CreationDate="2010-11-24T15:06:55.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from looks no, but the pie plate won't necessarily protect against what likely happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pie plates are to keep badly adjusted derailleurs out of the spokes. Obviously, maintaining your bike and keeping the limit screws in place will prevent that from happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stick or squirrel or something caught in your drive train won't necessarily be prevented by the pie plate, because that's not what they are there for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you regularly smash into things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remove the pie plates from all my wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T15:06:55.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2010-11-24T16:58:38.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When winter arrives and brings shorter days, I add additional lights.  As you say, this is just more urban lights, but a bike light--especially if it is blinking--does make you more visible.  I prefer a light with an erratic blink pattern, such as Planet Bike's BLAZE with superflash mode (http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3047.html).  This erratic pattern forces you to the forefront of attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lights and reflectors are essential but are not the whole answer.  I ride at night to be right where the motorists can see me.  It is always important to do this, but more so at night.  When there is no bike lane and no wide shoulder, I take the MIDDLE of the lane.  This is particularly important in an urban setting like Oakland or Sacramento, CA--where I ride.  Traffic in the city is heavy and often not much faster than I am.  Often cars are maxxing out at 25mph whereas I'm riding at around 15-18mph.  I can ride in the middle of the lane and if they're anxious, they can pass me.  The downside of this is that I hear a few drivers sounding their horns in protest.  The upside is that no one is surprised by me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No driver wants to damage their $20,000+ automobile by hitting a cyclist.  I'm a big guy, too--I'd damage their car.  So I ride right where they see me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most places where I ride are urban city streets--usually with two lanes in each direction, sometimes a left-turn lane.  I use all of these just as a motorist would--and California state law supports me in doing this.  My goal and the goal of the law here are to be visible and predictable.  I ride like I belong there--without trying to be a jerk about it.  The motorists have a passing lane to get around me--and if they don't, I let them pass whenever it's safe and with easily-recognizable hand signals.  If they're right behind you, after all, you have their attention.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be both visible AND predictable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have good situational awareness--know what's going on all around--and react to motorists who may not be doing the same.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a safe ride!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T16:58:38.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:01:46.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it sounds incredibly stupid, but getting a bike with a striking color (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycle-world.co.uk/smsimg/66/mf11354_g11_avalnch30d_neoyel_g.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; -love it btw) might reduce at least a bit the chances of getting stolen. I've read it happens so with cars, so I figure it might apply to bikes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasoning behind it is that it draws too much attention and it is harder to sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="816" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T17:01:46.310" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-24T17:01:46.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:11:18.733" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Australia it is illegal to ride without a helmet - will that law also be updated? It might not concern you on a daily basis, but if you were in an accident while wearing an older model, what would the law then have to say about your liability? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not the same at all - but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/2010/nov/15/killer-driver-sues-over-cycle-helmet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this story&lt;/a&gt; does prove that when defendants don't see a choice, then their (public-funded) lawyers will really scrape the barrel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T17:11:18.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:44:55.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Minneapolis and ride around in the city regularly. I have a planet bike superflash tail light. I haven't had any issues (relative to biking in the daytime).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reflectors alone are nearly as bad as nothing. Blinky lights are good though because very few things fiercely blink, in the city or in the country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, drivers in the city typically are more accustomed to the presence of cyclists. I feel far more comfortable between lanes of cars in the city than out in the suburbs where people only encounter &quot;one of those people&quot; every few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T17:44:55.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2010-11-24T19:40:30.220" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summary: a helmet that meets the new standard is going to protect your head better than one that just barely meets the old standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Old Law: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saiglobal.com/PDFTemp/Previews/OSH/As/as2000/2000/2063.pdf&quot;&gt;AS/NZS 2063:1996 (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;; unfortunately just the start, the actual full text of the law is behind paywalls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Law: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saiglobal.com/PDFTemp/Previews/OSH/AS/AS2000/2000/2063-2008.pdf&quot;&gt;AZ/NZS 2063:2008 (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;; also need to pay to get full text&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some stuff about US rules for comparison: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/frnotices/fr98/10mr98r.pdf&quot;&gt;CPSC bicycle helmet rules (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary of differences from the preface of the new regulations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something about &quot;projection requirements&quot; from the horse-riding helmet regulations added in. This is probably about stuff sticking off the outside of the helmet (such as a visor/peak).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Update to what headform is used for testing to match an international standard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduction of maximum allowed force to headform in test from 300g to 250g&lt;/strong&gt;.  For comparison, 300g is the US requirement for adults, but 250g is the requirement in the US for children. I think it's a similar impact test.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Update to test of retention system (straps)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A new test for &quot;peak deflection&quot; added in, which I believe is another test of the retention system (straps), but measured differently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, from the stuff I saw, a helmet meeting the old standard will still be perfectly legal to own or wear, will still be allowed in organized races for a while, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the 300g to 250g change is the big one.  The g forces imparted to your head in a collision directly translate to how much damage your brain is going to take.  They're taking a weight shaped like a human head, strapping it into the helmet and dropping it onto various &quot;anvils&quot; and measuring the impact. This is a laboratory test of what would happen to your head during a collision wearing that helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the tests are simply pass or fail.  It's entirely possible that there's helmets certified to the old standard that would pass the new standard (or parts of the new standard) but those models weren't tested to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd be likely to pick up one of the old standard clearance helmets and not worry about it. Maybe get something a little nicer than I'd normally choose to afford. If I was planning some riskier riding I'd probably choose something certified to the new standard. However, I'm opposed to adult mandatory helmet laws, so my personal opinion should be taken with a grain of salt.  My personal opinion is that it's 90% silly bureaucracy and 10% actually making your head safer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T19:40:30.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2200" CreationDate="2010-11-25T10:54:12.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been mountain biking for 20 years in the UK where we know all about mud, so this is what I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike isn't too dirty I don't give it a full wash. I figure that washing it all the time you're exposing it to more water and detergent which is likely to accelerate wear. I just brush off the mud and dirt, spray some GT85 on the front and rear mech and SPDs (using a rag to make sure the overspray doesn't get on the disc rotors) and lube the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does need a good clean this is my routine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put it in the bike stand (gripping the seatpost)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hose it down to get the worst of the mud off, paying particular attention to under the saddle and around the bottom bracket, but being careful to not spray wheel and bottom bracket bearings from the side (I spray those areas from the front and back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the wheels and give them a a good scrub with hot soapy water (I use Ecover washing liquid). A scrubbing brush is great for the tyres, and for running around the rims and cleaning quickly betweent the spokes. A cloth is good for the spokes themselves and the hub body, and the scrubbing brush is also good for doing the block. As I use a pretty clean lube (Lifeline Race Oil) this doesn't mess things up too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the bike itself, I start cleaning under the saddle (toothbrush is good here) and work down towards the back of the bike. I then start at the handlebars and work down the forks, then move across the top tube and down the down tube. Easy bits to miss are the back of the fork brace and around the disc calipers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I finish with the drive train, again with hot soapy water because I use a clean lube, I run the scrubbing brush over the chainset (both sides), run the chain through the scrubbing brush, and give the front and rear mechs a good clean with a toothbrush.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I hose down the whole bike and wheels, spin the cranks to drive water out of the chain, and wipe down the bike with a rag so it dries evenly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then lube the chain, rear mech, front mech, front and rear gear cables, jockey wheels and the SPDs with GT85, which also helps drive out water. Once the GT 85 has evaporated, I then lube the chain, turning the cranks and applying race oil to the inside of the chain. I then run the outside of the chain through a rag to remove the excess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That routine seems to work well for me and means I can do the whole bike in 30 minutes. My biggest advice would be to make sure you use a relatively clean lube. If you use a wax based dry lube, or an extreme conditions winter lube, it makes the whole process a lot more time consuming and messing, as you have to degrease everything or just not touch the drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T10:54:12.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2193" CreationDate="2010-11-25T11:07:25.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason you need to bed in your pads is so that they contact the disc rotor evenly. Even if you think you've set them up perfectly, the rotor and the pad are very hard and when you apply the brakes initially there is not going to be completely even contact between pad and rotor. By bedding them in, you're effectively wearing away the top layer of the disc rotor so you get completely even contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this you simply need to brake hard, generating heat and wear. I find sprinting down the road and put the front brakes on hard, whilst keeping my weight well back to prevent an embarrassing endo, works well. For the rear I again sprint off but then apply it steadily and firmly, also with weight well back and just enough pressure to brake hard without skidding. It helps if you're on a really grippy surface like tarmac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastEditorUserId="820" LastEditDate="2010-11-25T12:53:10.337" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T12:53:10.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2193" CreationDate="2010-11-25T12:22:20.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bedding in is a term applied to most metallic braking devices.  Pads and rotors/discs wear at different rates and can end up slightly grooved depending on the natural variations in the pad/disc materials.  when replacing one or the other or both items you need to bed them in to ensure that both surfaces conform to each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to bed brakes in is NOT by slamming them on, but rather by applying firm, even pressure to the brakes which will help ensure they bed in correctly.  Too light pressure and you could &quot;glaze&quot; the pad - i.e. turn it too hard and polished to effectively brake, too hard and you could damage the rotor or pad by scoring its surface or worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="519" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T12:22:20.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2010-11-25T13:32:00.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, a lot of bike stems can be flipped.  This increases the height of your handle bars and should keep you from having to bend over as much.  Remember that any changes you make to the stack and reach of your handle bars may require you to make other adjustments to your seat and seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="G2789" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T13:32:00.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-25T13:55:24.243" Score="10" ViewCount="3051" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should a bicyclist make sure to eat before and after riding a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-11-25T17:33:42.393" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T20:47:18.660" Title="What should one eat while cycling?" Tags="&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2010-11-25T13:59:43.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may find that you have some spacers on the steerer tube above your stem that you can move below it to raise the bar height for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T13:59:43.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2195" CreationDate="2010-11-25T14:02:01.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly you will damage that pivot and possibly the suspension action. I've used a trainer with a normal quick release skewer, and it tends to mash up the drive side, even if it's a metal end. Plastic ones get destroyed - that's a lot of weight to be putting through something that isn't designed to be weight bearing in that fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My trainer came with a big chunky metal QR skewer that weighed about twice as much as a normal one, but was designed to fit firmly in the trainer, for this reason, but I suspect from what you've said that won't be compatible with ABP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that your setup is perhaps even more risky than using a normal skewer - damaging a fundamental part of the suspension, rather than a cheap QR skewer - I really wouldn't recommend using that bike with a trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you considered rollers instead? They're a bit scary at first, but once you get used to them they're a lot less dull than a trainer, plus they're better for developing a smooth pedalling technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T14:02:01.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2225" CreationDate="2010-11-25T14:09:21.223" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bananas&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and as I need at least 15 characters, don't forget to eat bananas during your ride as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T14:09:21.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2225" CreationDate="2010-11-25T14:11:09.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on the type of ride, but generally something not too heavy with plenty of complex carbs is good before a long ride. You want something that is going to release plenty of energy over the course of the ride. Porridge, maybe with yogurt and stewed fruit, works really well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a ride, there's a 15 minute recovery window where you want to replace those carbs and also get some protein, so your body can replenish its energy reserves and rebuild muscle mass. There are specialist recovery drinks that do this, but to be honest a milkshake made with semi or skimmed milk and not too much sugar is ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T14:11:09.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2225" CreationDate="2010-11-25T14:20:04.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chris's answer is good &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you are planning for some serious training/ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, if you ride just a few Kms there's not even need for a particular diet, as long as it's mixed and well balanced. I stick to such a regular diet for rides of 50 Km or less, otherwise some tuning (as described by Chris) is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-29T03:37:22.497" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T03:37:22.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2233" CreationDate="2010-11-25T16:02:35.290" Score="6" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to get hold of my first turbo trainer (borrowing it from my triathlon club). Before I start, what do I need to know about turbo trainers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T10:22:21.050" Title="What do I need to know about Turbo Trainers?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2231" CreationDate="2010-11-25T16:30:09.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That they are &lt;strong&gt;booooooooooooring&lt;/strong&gt; and that you'll sweat a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'd buy specific tires such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/continental-ultra-sport-home-trainer-folding-tyre/&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; because they really eat the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T16:30:09.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2231" CreationDate="2010-11-25T21:01:46.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd agree that they can be pretty boring. I really focus my workouts when I'm using mine in the winter. Hard workouts are typically some type of interval set which takes about 1.5 hours. On days I would do a long ride and I'm stuck inside I get up early and do a 2 hour block then come back in the afternoon for the other 2 hour block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To combat the boring factor I use podcasts, audiobooks, and movies. I also hide the clocks and set a timer where I can't see it so when it goes off I'm done. I've found not having the time visible makes it pass faster (watched pot never boils).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't purchase new tires but just use the old one from the summer then get a new set for the following season. If I had a spare wheel then I'd use a training tire but it's just too much of a pain to switch rubber when it's nice enough to ride (which happens once a week at least for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-11-26T03:57:06.240" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T03:57:06.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2225" CreationDate="2010-11-26T02:18:11.697" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going less than 3-4 hours you don't really need anything. Ditto that on the 15 minute window for replacement. Unless you're training really hard, you can skip that as well. We all have enough stored to last a whole ride. However, the marketing around sports nutrition would make you think otherwise. Eat solid when you're off the bike, bring water when you're on the bike. You'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="830" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T02:18:11.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2172" CreationDate="2010-11-26T02:36:41.633" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2172/what-is-a-kermesse-race/2173#2173&quot;&gt;answer by domsterr&lt;/a&gt; is a really good summary of what a kermis is. Here's some additional info: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have these almost every day in towns across Belgium (and Holland) through the cycling season. (I stayed in Gent and there was always one within 30k of there.) They begin at 3 usually. The top 20 pays. First place usually receives 150 Euros. On our team, as with others, the first place rider in addition to the winnings from the race got 200 Euros from the team. This money was explicitly for bargaining. Often these races come down to a small group of guys. At which point you have to be measurably stronger than your breakaway companions, or do some politicking. You can either pay off the guys in the break, or enough to have them work for you while you attack. This is always part of the racing. The guys who are strong enough just ride away, the rest pay off the guys in the break, then ride away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The races begin with 40-150 guys and get whittled down to roughly 15. The guys at the front attack non-stop, each time whittling down the group. As the riders fall off, they are given a 1 lap to go warning and then they sprint for whatever place that is. The guys who actually finish kermis races, as in they last the entire race without getting pulled, are strong enough to race and win some PRO/1/2 races in the U.S. Often you will see national teams bring their riders to kermis races for training. Most national teams have bases in Belgium for the summer so their riders can race locally. Also, there are riders from professional development teams as well. Guys who are technically PRO, riding for a real team, but making no money. In one race I entered (I was always dropped very quickly) Iljo Keisse was racing--a track legend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my post from the first kermis I went to. The posts after this are all from ones I entered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hummushead.blogspot.com/2009/08/my-first-kermis-race.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://hummushead.blogspot.com/2009/08/my-first-kermis-race.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in racing in Belgium let me know. I have friends there still and there's, no joke, a bike house where you can pay 200-300 Euros a month and race. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="830" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T01:28:30.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1759" CreationDate="2010-11-26T02:44:14.857" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 2010 Giro, on the Plan de Corones, Vinokourov rode an 11-32 cassette to 8th place (with compact (34) up front). Gadret rode the same setup to place 3rd on the stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theroaddiaries.com/?p=2726&quot;&gt;http://www.theroaddiaries.com/?p=2726&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contador used a compact and a large, I think 30-something rear cog, on l'Angliru in the 2009 Vuelta a Espana. Compacts are definitely used by PROs, but only on really steep stages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opposite end of the spectrum, PROs will often ride 53-42s (or some variation, sometimes 44, sometimes 40) for the classics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="830" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T02:44:14.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1245" CreationDate="2010-11-26T02:47:48.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride Speedplays and will never ride anything else. Due to the amount of float it's unnecessary to have an intensive cleat fit for these. So basically you can spend $50 less for Looks or Times, but then you have to spend that on a cleat fitting, if you want them adjusted correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, some people don't enjoy the amount of float. Newer Speedplays have adjustable float, though. I would definitely try a pair before making a decision. I love them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="830" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T02:47:48.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2010-11-26T03:32:08.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy the puncture-resistant tubes and don't have any flats. They're the same price as regular tubes and work as well with regular tires as regular tubes with gator skins or the other puncture resistant tires. This is a cheaper, and in my opinion, better way to go. The other advantage with buying a tougher tube vs. a tougher tire is you can still ride a supple tire. The gator skins or armadillos are really hard and don't provide as good a ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the link to the tubes: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes//Product_10052_10551_1034747_-1___&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forté Road Puncture Resistant Presta Tube 700c x 23-26&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="830" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T22:26:50.690" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T22:26:50.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1759" CreationDate="2010-11-26T05:47:31.267" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already mentioned, pros will use compact cranks on serious climbing courses.  It is important to remember that the pros are not like us.  Their power to weight ratios are extremely high--much higher than even you see at even the elite amateur level.  So, they don't need gearing as easy as mere mortals most of the time.  And, the top sprinters and their leadout trains are ungodly fast, and they actually can use a 53x11 to good effect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a 50x34 with an 11-27 in the back.  I spin out the 50x11 only on reasonably fast downhills and flat sprints that have a very strong tailwind.  I use the 34x27 more often than I would like to admit if I am on a sustained climb that is steeper than 7%, and I don't want to hammer it.  So for me, compact makes sense.  But my threshold power to weight ratio is only 4.15.  Pros are more like 6 or 7.  If I had that kind of power, I would be rolling the 39x23 up long climbs at the same relative effort that I now do in the 34x27.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Hobbanero" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T05:47:31.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2231" CreationDate="2010-11-26T10:22:21.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too agree that they're really boring. Have you considered rollers? They take a little to get used to, but they're less boring (because you have to balance) and really good for developing smooth pedalling technique. They also don't seem to wear out tires as quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T10:22:21.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2242" CreationDate="2010-11-26T11:05:00.530" Score="12" ViewCount="4887" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2231/what-do-i-need-to-know-about-turbo-trainers&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; I asked what I need to know about turbo trainers, but several answers mentioned the use of rollers. What are the pros and cons of turbo trainers and rollers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T12:48:15.197" Title="What are the advantages and disadvantages of turbo trainers and rollers?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2241" CreationDate="2010-11-26T11:17:39.350" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turbo trainers allow you to alter the resistance, so they are good for interval style workouts. They don't require any skill to use as you're locked in place. But as most people will tell you, riding a turbo trainer gets very dull very quickly, and unless you really concentrate they don't do much for your &quot;souplesse&quot; (spinning smooth circles at a high cadence, the most efficient way to pedal) - it's easy to just stomp up and down on the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rollers require you to balance and it takes a little to get used to them. On some models you can't alter the resistance, although you can of course shift into a higher gear to work harder. It's generally accepted that they are very good for your souplesse, in part because pedalling smoothly makes it easier to balance. They are also a lot less dull than a trainer - you can even get fancy sets of rollers that allow you to stand up and pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you'd want both - a turbo trainer for shorter, intense interval style workouts against resistance to build speed and power, and rollers for spinning smoothly for longer periods of time to get in the miles and build endurance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastEditorUserId="820" LastEditDate="2010-11-30T09:44:01.657" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T09:44:01.657" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-11-26T20:48:49.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Winter cycling boots&lt;/strong&gt; (either road or MTB)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a northern European rider, every cyclist I know who has bought a pair of these has regretted not buying them earlier. They may not keep your feet totally dry (the water runs down your legs and into them), but they keep them so much warmer than overshoes do on the road, where your feet are effectively static just spinning circles, so don't generate much heat of their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an MTB overshoes are just a hassle, getting caught up in mud and sticks when you put your feet down, so for years I used waterproof socks and normal cycling shoes. But your normal shoes don't have enough room in them for a nice warm sock and even with waterproof socks you often end up with your feet compressed, cutting off circulation and leading to cold feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a lot of your riding is cold or wet, I'd strongly recommend buying a pair of winter boots, fitted with a nice thick wool sock. Having warm feet makes such a difference in those conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFr84.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-23T17:09:48.583" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T17:09:48.583" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-26T20:48:49.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2313" CreationDate="2010-11-26T23:02:58.247" Score="16" ViewCount="11525" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that the patches I buy for fixing inner tubes come in one of 2 types. Both have metal foil on the stick-to-tube side. One has paper on the other side, the other plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the paper ones I can peel off the foil, glue them down, wait a minute, then split the paper from the centre and tear it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't do this with the plastic backing - any attempt to remove it seems to lift the edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I supposed to leave the plastic on, remove it before I glue the patch, or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-27T22:06:13.987" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T17:45:24.343" Title="How do I use the plastic backing on patches?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="471" CreationDate="2010-11-27T00:46:01.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some very good answers, but I think it's also worth saying that the sidewall gives a maximum not suggested pressure on all the bike tyres I've seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I ever run my mountain bike tyres at their maximum is if I'm riding on the road and in a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T00:46:01.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2256" CreationDate="2010-11-27T05:40:21.847" Score="11" ViewCount="2011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen available special &quot;stands&quot; (please tell me the correct terminology) to be placed under the front wheel when using a turbo trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally just put a copy of the phone directory down on the floor, opened in the middle to hold the wheel in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I lash out and buy one of the specialised devices?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-27T22:55:00.683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T14:15:32.590" Title="Do I need to buy a special stand for my front wheel when using my turbo trainer?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2010-11-27T07:32:34.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cycled loads in the UK in cycle unfriendly cities. I think it comes down to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of good lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hivis Jacket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helmet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be completely predictable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expect others (Cars and other cyclists) to be completely unpredictable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the safe route.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now live in the Netherlands, wow that is a different experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-11-28T00:29:37.577" LastActivityDate="2010-11-28T00:29:37.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2244" CreationDate="2010-11-27T12:07:09.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should leave the plastic backing on, and the paper ones as well.  The backing stops chemicals from the patch and glue working their way into the tire at the location directly in contact with the patch.  I do not know if this leaching weakens the tire at all, but in many cases it will cause a dark &quot;patch&quot; to appear on the tire sidewall after an amount of time, which can look unsightly.  After a long period of time (months) the plastic and paper will disintegrate by themselves so you don't have to worry about removing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T12:07:09.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2189" CreationDate="2010-11-27T12:18:49.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Vittoria Rubino Pro's have a kevlar bead (foldable) and in the past I have found them to be excellent value for money.  Maybe too much orange?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3cZGX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Orange Rubino Pro&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T12:18:49.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2010-11-27T12:35:39.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.productsafety.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/974624&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ACCC's&lt;/a&gt; web page on the new standard, the 12 of December change only applies to retailers.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/SafetyAndRules/SaferRiders/Cyclists/CyclistSafety.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VicRoads&lt;/a&gt; website only mentions that you have to have a helmet that reaches AS/NZS 2063, not the year of the standard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I am due for a new helmet, my current one being well over 2 years old, and I will be looking for one that meets the improved standard, since this indicates that the protection it offers in all situations is as good if not better. The materials and techniques in a more recent helmet will be improved compared  to one designed two years ago.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my head is worth more than the money I would save from a cheaper, inferior helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T12:35:39.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2247" CreationDate="2010-11-27T16:58:42.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're anything like me, sooner or later your directory is going to be a pile of paper/sweat mush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But until then this seems like a good hack provided the height is right and the wheel secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T16:58:42.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2247" CreationDate="2010-11-27T20:34:26.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always found a house brick to be the perfect height and obviously nice and solid (and unaffected by sweat!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T20:34:26.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-28T07:19:33.423" Score="5" ViewCount="27794" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much air is too little and you should add more for the safety and ease of your bike ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T21:40:11.970" Title="How do you know when you need to add more air in the tires?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2254" CreationDate="2010-11-28T07:40:54.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is: it depends on the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the air pressure is lower, there is more contact between the ground and the tire. This has the advantage of more grip (especially in rainy and/or icy conditions this can be nice), but the disadvantage of more resistance, making the cycling harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the air pressure is higher, the advantage is making it easier, but the disadvantage is less grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, if the pressure is low, the wheel can damage the tire, if the pressure is high, the ground can damage the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general the thin tires (such as on racing bikes) do require higher pressure then wide tires (such as on mountain bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see the bottom of the wheel as cutting in to the side of the tire, then the pressure is definitely too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Ernst" LastActivityDate="2010-11-28T07:40:54.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2247" CreationDate="2010-11-28T10:42:31.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A nice advantage of the specialized stand is that it will keep your front wheel pointed front. So you won't have to expend energy keeping it that way. A brick or telephone directory (or anything that's just level and the right height) won't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A piece of wooden plank will, after you hack away at it with an axe a few times right in the middle. If you're looking to save $20 it's the perfect solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2010-11-28T10:42:31.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2254" CreationDate="2010-11-28T13:42:51.797" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look on the sidewalls of your tires, and you should see a recommended pressure range. If your tires are outside that range, you need more air. The lower end of the pressure range is good for soft ground like dirt or gravel or snow, where you need more traction; the higher end is best for roads, and will help you avoid &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pinchflat&quot;&gt;pinch flats&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-11-29T03:20:22.513" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T03:20:22.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2264" CreationDate="2010-11-29T01:58:23.893" Score="10" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son is about to turn two and he really likes the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skuut.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Skuut Balance Bike&lt;/a&gt;, but is this functionally any different than a small Bmx bike with no drivetrain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E18RU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, is a run-bike designed to be easier to balance (e.g. by changing the distribution of weight relative to a bmx bike)? by the way, I was thinking of bmx-style of equivalent size, not a true 20&quot; bmx bike–&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my original post, I have found that this type of bike is called a 'run-bike' and that they are made by multiple companies. However, I have never seen one in a regular bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing the generic name, it was easy to find the wikipedia site and answer my own question 'no'. But I am still open to the possibility that there &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found a related but distinct question on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/452/839&quot;&gt;best method to teach a child to ride a bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My son received a Kinderbike for his birthday. I decided on the kinderbike based on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2009/10/26/fashion/20091027-physical-slideshow_2.html?adxnnl=1&amp;amp;adxnnlx=1293220808-80eRIaQhzJn3vkNBgjqTZQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NYtimes article&lt;/a&gt; and some Amazon reviews that suggested that the Kinderbike is of better quality than the Skuut. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fbCNJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Review&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed the Kinderbike uses 'real' (if cheap but sufficient) bike parts, including a real brake and headset. It even comes with a bell! I don't want to talk up the quality too much - while certainly better than what you might find at a box-store like Walmart (those bikes are often non-serviceable), but nothing like what you might find on an entry level adult bike. Out of the box, the rims were out of true, the headset was on too tight, and the tires smell like plastic fumes. But this is all fixable since the components are basically like a regular bike. The Skuut, on the other hand, apparently has plastic washers and cheap tires that make the bike overall not as durable. Although I prefer the aesthetics of a wooden bike, common sense chose durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T20:59:28.673" Title="Is a &quot;run-bike&quot; equivalent to a bmx bike with no drivetrain?" Tags="&lt;children&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2314" CreationDate="2010-11-29T02:20:31.963" Score="12" ViewCount="4237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rhode gear trailer with a 100 lb capacity, similar to the burley and other brands, that attaches to the left chainstay (see image of hitch below). I currently have it attached to my heavy-duty commuter, and I am not concerned with any adverse effects that it might have. However, I am having so much fun with it that I would also like to attach it to my road bike, which has a steel frame built for racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I accept that this can affect the paint, but I don't want to cause structural damage (e.g. bend or break) the frame. Should I be concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AYSfW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2010-12-02T03:40:55.320" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T00:23:36.657" Title="Will a bicycle trailer damage my (steel) bicycle?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2258" CreationDate="2010-11-29T02:29:46.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is 'yes', given that a 'run bike' is defined by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Run_bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; as any bike without a drivetrain or training wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is possible that some models have specific advantages, e.g. related to geometry, weight distribution, or handling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2010-12-02T06:23:44.057" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T06:23:44.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2254" CreationDate="2010-11-29T02:37:40.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other looking at the sidewall, here are some clues that I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the rim hits the edge of a pothole or uneven sidewalk when you go over it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn the relationship between the feel at the thumb and the amount of pressure in the tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a given tire, too low can depend on what you want out of the tire and the conditions that you expect to ride in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you find it difficult to hold your line in a turn because your tires are not firm enough (in extreme cases the tire will roll off), you should increase the pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T02:37:40.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2241" CreationDate="2010-11-29T02:55:20.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would argue that there are few advantages to the trainers other than ease of use. Chris B's answer that an advantage of a trainer is the resistance is not valid since it is possible to change the resistance on rollers either by using a similar attachment like a magnetic wheel, or by using rollers with a smaller diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages to rollers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;improve bike handling skills&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;improve pedaling efficiency &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;riding rollers is an impressive skill in and of itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages to rollers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steep learning curve. Best to start in a doorway or next to a counter. However, parabolic rather than flat rollers make it easier to learn. See the answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1663/839&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages to a trainer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;holds your bike up when you get off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages to trainers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clamping in the rear hub and pedaling hard stresses the bicycle frame &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can leave a flat spot on or all the way around your tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can spray rubber from tire onto carpet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T18:25:49.870" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1663" CreationDate="2010-11-29T03:04:53.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A major consideration would be the weight of the rollers themselves. Heavier rollers are easier to ride because they have more inertia and are therefore less sensitive to the small changes in wheel speed related that occur over the course of a pedal stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2010-11-29T04:37:48.483" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T04:37:48.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2258" CreationDate="2010-11-29T10:57:16.857" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you thinking to get a small BMX and take the drive train off instead of getting a run bike, so you can put the drive train back on when he's ready? Otherwise I don't quite understand the purpose of the question, sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is you're idea I'd suggest that's probably not a good idea. It's going to be difficult to find a BMX small enough for a two year old to easily put their feet down and run, and you're paying for extra components (chain, cranks, pedals, brakes) that you don't need. Unlike an adult bike those components aren't likely to be easily removeable, and it's likely to be a lot heavier and more clumsy for your son to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A run bike is going to be focused on what is most important at that age - teaching balance - and everyone I know who has had one has enthused about how easily their child was able to transition to a bike with a drive train after having a run bike. Also, because they tend to be quite well made and not abused, there's a healthy market in them on ebay, so you should be able to sell it relatively easily when it's time for the first proper bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T10:57:16.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2279" CreationDate="2010-11-29T13:40:26.913" Score="18" ViewCount="2754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to go for an off road ride in the snow this weekend but I chickened out. Partly because it was cold but mainly because I have no experience riding in snow and wasn't sure whether I would get more than 10 metres from my house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this got me thinking, if you're riding off road on a path that is virtually untouched, how deep does it have to get to become unrideable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T14:00:22.413" Title="How deep does snow have to be before it becomes unrideable?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2247" CreationDate="2010-11-29T14:15:32.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My trainer came with the appropriate front stand.  However, I occasionally forget to use it and it really doesn't seem to matter either way.  Since I have it, I try to remember to use it, but if I didn't have it, I wouldn't bother to buy one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T14:15:32.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2265" CreationDate="2010-11-29T14:31:52.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on how heavy it is and what you want to do. For a light snow, below the hubs should be fine. For heavier snows and slush, well, you have to worry more about losing control of the front wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fatter tires or a mountain bike are easier to ride in slush and snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to test the limits&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go as fast as is safe &#xA;2.use a big gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep a light touch on the handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;only brake when going in a straight line and only use the rear brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fixed gear is easier to control in these situations because of the direct control that you have over the rotation of the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2010-11-30T12:46:40.163" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T12:46:40.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2265" CreationDate="2010-11-29T15:06:41.460" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience from last winter was that I could keep moving through falling sticky snow up to about 6&quot; = 15cm but it took a great deal of effort, even more so if your tyres end up cracking through frozen puddles under the snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were sections where I had to pedal hard just to keep moving even down some normally fast downhill sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's great fun - but maybe don't stray too far from home on your first outing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T15:06:41.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2265" CreationDate="2010-11-29T15:09:01.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other answers, but think one subtle detail is important.  It depends on the type of snow.  Eskimos have 50 words for snow?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well there really are different types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light and fluffy is easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deep and heavy gets to be problematic.  There comes a point, where each forward motion is wasted as the wheel spins, while sinking down through the snow up ahead, till it hits the bottom where it can get traction.  That is very hard riding if it is possible at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how to discuss the very different types of snow to really answer this question completely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T15:09:01.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2254" CreationDate="2010-11-29T15:10:40.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer is, they always need more air.  Tires leak, slowly, but they all leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding every day, you probably want to top them up every 2-3 days.  If you ride once a week, you need to top them up every ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T15:10:40.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2225" CreationDate="2010-11-29T18:23:07.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just consider the nature of the ride I plan to do. And think of the time I'll be on the bike and the intensity of the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A short commute, errand or casual ride. Probably nothing more is needed other than normal balanced meals with a snack (energy bar, banana, fig bar, or whatever you prefer) in your pocket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A long commute/errand or moderate fitness ride. Preferably a meal 1 - 2 hours before the ride (60% Carbs, 20% Protein, 20% Fat); then a high carb snack 30 minutes before the workout (granola bar, banana, etc); after the ride a light meal/snack with a 4:1 carb/protein ratio within 2 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High intensity fitness training/fitness rides such as interval training. A meal and snack, as above, 1 - 2 hours and 30 minutes before; an energy/electrolyte drink during the workout; and a recovery meal/snack as above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very long rides where you'll be on the bike for several hours, such as centuries. Same as the previous. However during the ride, it pays to eat and hydrate throughout. I find that I'm eating the equivalent of a high carb energy bar about every hour. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a rough answer as there are entire books on the subject of exercise nutrition. A couple that I've found useful are by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/Chris-Carmichael/e/B001IXOGZS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chris Carmichael&lt;/a&gt;. One is &lt;em&gt;Food for Fitness&lt;/em&gt; and another is &lt;em&gt;The Time Crunched Cyclist&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T18:23:07.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2254" CreationDate="2010-11-29T21:32:51.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 ways to determine this. One is to use an air pressure gauge. The other is to squeeze the tire with your fingers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Neilfein says above, first check the inflation specs on your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain bike tires = 35 - 65 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commuter bike tires = 75 - 100 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road bike tires = 100 - 120 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so here's something you can do. Using a pressure gauge, pump up your tires to the max pressure. Then, using your fingers, see how that feels. Now, let the air out, and pump up to the min pressure, and see how that feels. Also, do the same with a middle pressure. Now you have a range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are familiar with how that pressure range feels, you can either head off for your ride or add air. And of course, you can always use a gauge to check the pressure before each and every ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For casual short rides I just squeeze the tires. And it works. Beyond that, I get out the pump and top them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-11-29T21:40:11.970" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T21:40:11.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2259" CreationDate="2010-11-29T21:33:28.620" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;These hitches don't work very well. They don't grab tightly enough, so they can twist around the bar and bump in to the wheel. As they twist they will take off the paint. They also require a lot of turns to attach and remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had two trailers with this kind of hitch, and 3 bikes to pull with. I bought this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketrailershop.com/burley-trailer-round-flex-connector-and-safety-strap-kit-p-1258.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Burley flex connector&lt;/a&gt; for each trailer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MReNU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burley flex connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketrailershop.com/burley-trailer-forged-hitch-for-quick-release-and-solid-axle-p-1251.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this kind of hitch&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r16FE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burley Trailer forged hitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works pretty well, but on one bike it's slippery, so the quick release lever can turn a little even when tight. But not enough that it's going to make the wheel fall out. Also, on one bike it bumps in to the QR, so I have to put it in just the right spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T21:33:28.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2010-11-30T00:28:44.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to the LED gloves, you can always make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/turn-signal-biking-jacket/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;signaling jacket&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3jKt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet I know a few of our friends that would be totally down helping with that ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T00:28:44.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="959" CreationDate="2010-11-30T02:40:35.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used zip ties to secure four panniers to the back of my Kona Ute. It's cheap insurance against opportunistic snatches of the panniers themselves, but the unattended contents are vulnerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone before made the point that heavily secure-looking panniers make the contents appear more desirable. I'm thinking that secure panniers ought to have a rigid shape, so it's hard to tell whether or not they contain something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for easily-removed racks. There are utility bikes on the market, such as my Ute, in which the storage rack is actually part of the frame. With such a bike, one only has to concentrate on how well the locking pannier is attached to the bike, and the quality of your usual bike locking strategy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="JigHexadecimal" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T02:40:35.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3397" CreationDate="2010-11-30T03:20:11.770" Score="7" ViewCount="8738" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any data on the stopping force of a &lt;strong&gt;modern road bike&lt;/strong&gt;? IE when a road biker slams on the brakes the force applied to the ground is x.xxx Newtons (or lbf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to ask would be if anyone has any speed vs stopping distance vs rider weight data for road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TO CLARIFY&lt;/strong&gt; : I'm asking if anyone has a data set of numbers, I'm fully capable of going out and testing my own bike and doing the physics / math to obtain the information I need, but I'd just rather not do the testing. I would expect some deviation based on the kind of brakes and rims involved, but I would expect any modern road bike to have similar stopping force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-12T03:57:26.793" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T03:57:26.793" Title="What is the stopping force of your average road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2265" CreationDate="2010-11-30T04:23:28.860" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding in snow depends on a bunch of factors, so you won't really ever be able to know unless you just go for it and try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What bike/wheels you have&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be obvious. Mountain vs Road, 26&quot; vs 29&quot;, wide vs skinny tires, etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your skill level in snow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better and more comfortable you are in the snow is important. I'd say its the most important factor apart from the bike. While some have trouble steering in just an inches, others can handle nearly a foot or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tracks in the snow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned fresh snow, but I'm going to include this as part of a general answer. The difference between fresh snow and tracked snow is huge. Tracked snow is vastly more difficult to bike in. With just a few inches of solid snow and some criss-crossing tire tracks, it can be nearly impossible to ride at any significant speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consistency of snow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, fresh powdery snow is a lot easier to go through than wet solid stuff. But powdery can be far worse if a hard icy surface lurks below the snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: Just go out and ride through snow and see what you can handle, then ride through something a little tougher. Best part is, the soft snow makes falling easier!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2010-11-30T14:55:05.313" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T14:55:05.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2278" CreationDate="2010-11-30T05:22:38.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find out how to estimate this at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_6494441_calculate-force-velocity.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikihow&lt;/a&gt;; given a starting speed of 20 mph and a stopping distance of 30 ft, they provide an estimate of 14.6 ft/s^2 which is equivalent to 4.5 m/s^2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-11-30T12:10:45.523" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T12:10:45.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2289" CreationDate="2010-11-30T05:43:18.463" Score="14" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from racing or riding across a frozen pond, under what conditions do you find studded tires useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used them, and the worst I have had to do is take a day off when it is really nasty and icy. Maybe some climates or landscapes are more prone to the spontaneous formation of ice patches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T01:12:01.497" Title="When are studded tires necessary?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;ice&gt;&lt;best-practice&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2225" CreationDate="2010-11-30T05:48:04.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing to 'make sure' to eat is carbohydrates, protein, fat, salt, and water, in any form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of my favorite snacks to eat &lt;em&gt;while&lt;/em&gt; cycling- as opposed to before/after; some make the list because they are ubiquitous at convenience stores (in order of quantity that I have consumed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;misc 'bar'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;peanut butter sandwich (banana and honey optional)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sandwich&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bananas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;equal parts soda:water (optimum osmotic pressure for sugar uptake as recommended by Greg Lemond, first line of defense when a bonk is coming on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;peanuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pop-tarts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before/after long rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pancakes with peanut butter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;oatmeal with fruits and nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;big bowl of cereal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eggs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;a rare steak is a good breakfast for what lies ahead&quot;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4IDCkcnnHg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;A Sunday in Hell&quot;&lt;/a&gt;  Roger de Vlaeminck eating a pre-race meal at 15:09 (make sure to cut small pieces and chew well!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;protein shake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;burrito&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shwarma&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2010-12-01T00:10:07.580" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T00:10:07.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2010-11-30T06:18:29.177" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ways to reduce your exposure include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;riding on bike paths and secondary streets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;riding at off-peak times (when traffic is low)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;riding when commercial traffic (e.g. diesel-consuming trucks) is lower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;riding before the sun gets high or after it begins to go down: ozone is produced by sunlight and takes time to develop (see image below from Chapter 6) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Richard Turco's &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0195142748&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;book&lt;/a&gt; provides an excellent overview of urban smog and pollution &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5xdgn.png&quot; alt=&quot;smog formation figure&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="14207" LastEditDate="2014-10-28T07:03:27.620" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T07:03:27.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2189" CreationDate="2010-11-30T06:28:44.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little googling goes a long way... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't realize that one of my favorite tires (Continental Grand Prix) comes in many colors, including orange:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/USP0d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tufo also makes sweet tires, some in orange:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Py0Vl.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see the Vredstein Fortezza Tricomp &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3f8g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T06:28:44.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2290" CreationDate="2010-11-30T09:59:28.540" Score="5" ViewCount="25147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a bike, which can be used for several types of riding? By this, I am referring to commutes, tours, cross country, off-road mountain biking, trailing especially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike should contain the major quality of several specifically designed bikes. By this I mean the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Road Bikes:&lt;/strong&gt; Lightweight, speed, ergonomic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Downhill MTBs:&lt;/strong&gt; Rigid Frame, High performance suspension and Tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cross Country:&lt;/strong&gt; Comfortable (on &lt;em&gt;Long tours&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, I have an habit of using a MTB for most of all the activities I mentioned above and most of time, this is not an comfortable experience over long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question is simple &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there a bike, which contains all the qualities in one?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T04:08:58.770" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T19:08:46.093" Title="Is there a All-In-One Bike that I can use for several types of riding?" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2285" CreationDate="2010-11-30T10:46:41.557" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a pretty broad question, but my personal take is that if you want one bike that will do anything a cyclocross bike isn't a bad idea. You can ride it off road like a mountain bike with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQmVqxVJvao&quot;&gt;a bit of skill&lt;/a&gt;, you can put road tyres on it and it's still light enough for road riding, provided you don't get a top end one it'll probably have mudguard eyelets and rack mounts so you can go touring, and the frame is strong enough to tow a trailer and it should last for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's been my personal experience since getting one earlier in the year (I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/product.php?id=7&quot;&gt;Kinesis Crosslight 5T&lt;/a&gt;, but plenty of other cyclocross bikes are similar), but may not match your requirements. If you add a bit more detail about all the different things you want to use it for you might get a better recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T10:46:41.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2010-11-30T12:16:49.373" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on where you live. On many winter days there isn't much difference between the frozen pond you mentioned and the middle of the street around here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Studded tires are definitely not a must for any winter rider, it's more of a if-it-fits-your-local-needs type of item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T12:16:49.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2010-11-30T15:01:14.810" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find them useful on the street during the winter. Here in Minneapolis it gets pretty cold and the streets can get pretty icy. Their studded-ness &lt;strong&gt;plus&lt;/strong&gt; their aggressive tread pattern give me good traction in snow and on ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, studded tires are really slow. The majority of the time, even in winter, there isn't much ice and I am completely fine riding on slicks. For days when its snowing and icy, I have a spare front wheel with a studded tire mounted on it. I'll swap that in for those days, leaving the slick on the back. Traction on the back is less than optimal, but it is a good speed/stability tradeoff. I can handle my backwheel slipping around, but if the front wheel slips I am going to end up on my face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I did this when I commuted daily, so I didn't skip very snowy days. In fact very snowy days made me want to ride more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T15:01:14.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2285" CreationDate="2010-11-30T17:33:28.297" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general you can get an very good all-around road bike, or a very good all-around mountain bike.  To get a single bike for everything there will always be trade-offs in areas like weight/durability; speed/traction; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said - many people own one bike and use it for everything.  If I had to drop to one bike I would buy a 29&quot;-wheel based front suspension mountain bike with the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suspension front fork with lockout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disk brakes &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rack and fender mounts (and a rack and fenders)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a spare wheelset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind the spare wheelset is key - that way you can run a high pressure slick on one set, and then switch to a knobbie without the hassle of swapping out the tires on each wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T04:13:56.647" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T04:13:56.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2285" CreationDate="2010-11-30T17:38:05.123" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are always trade-offs so it depends on what you do, but there will probably always be arguments in favour of multiple bikes. Simple answer, though, is that there is no such thing as the &quot;all-in-one&quot; bike (unless you have a really small, tight definition for &quot;all&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cyclocross is great (ticks the heavy duty, gear range, off-road, comfortable boxes), but my fixed is way lighter (so is faster, less attractive to thieves, easier to maintain), my time trial bike is fastest (but not so useful for commuting) and my road bike is too fragile for daily use (and too nickable). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't do the shopping on my trial bike, I wouldn't want to leave my road (or trial) bike locked up away from home, I couldn't race on my fixed (even if I wanted to). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the cyclocross is the closest to an allrounder, but there are things it can't do as well (it's not fast, it is relatively heavy).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2011-01-27T09:35:22.383" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T09:35:22.383" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2298" CreationDate="2010-11-30T18:17:08.133" Score="5" ViewCount="4427" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a reputable website that sells a wide range of used and second hand bike parts and components? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm helping a friend rebuild an older commuter bike and we are having trouble finding compatible components. There are a couple of local shops that carry used parts, but not having any luck there so far. I know of an Ebay seller that sells used ski equipment; I'm wondering if, likewise, there is a website for used bike parts. I'm basically looking for a larger inventory than my local area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T09:13:47.427" LastActivityDate="2018-11-30T20:03:22.503" Title="Where can I buy a wide range of used bike parts online?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2010-11-30T18:23:55.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also create semi-studded tires by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dutchbikeco.com/_blog/Dutch_Bike_Co_Weblog/post/Seattle_Snowpocalypse/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wrapping zip-ties around the tire&lt;/a&gt;, with the lock in the same position the screws are shown in the illustrated answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd need a bike with disk brakes for this to work. So for a road bike it would probably be slightly less than practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T18:23:55.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2295" CreationDate="2010-11-30T22:26:30.003" Score="105" ViewCount="31497" Body="&lt;p&gt;My head and tail lights can be set to blink or emit a steady beam of light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually set my rear (red) light to blink, because I believe it makes me more visible at night. My friend argues that it makes it more difficult for motorists to judge how far away I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any studies showing which is the safer way to use a tail light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T16:43:04.857" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T16:34:03.447" Title="Safety data: Which is safer, head/tail lights which blink or emit a steady beam?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="24" FavoriteCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2294" CreationDate="2010-12-01T00:10:28.940" Score="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that 'safer' is subjective and depends on your requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are both correct.  Movement attracts the eye, so your blinking light is noticed.  It is easier to judge the position of a steady state light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a motorist to pick out your tail light, particularly, from a sea of noise is very difficult.  The surface area of the light is tiny, and it's all on its own.  Your light is just not important enough to notice amongst the jumble of signs, traffic directions and other cars unless it does something to stand out, like flash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the reason it's easy to see cars (apart from bulk) is that they have 2 lights moving together.  Something to do with your brain automagically resolving the connected pattern.  That's why it's hard to see a car with one working taillight, or a motorcycle or bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of safety, my policy is always 'be seen and misjudged' rather than 'not seen'. So I always set both front and rear lights to blink at night.  If you need illumination for the road, I'd strongly suggest a second forward light for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/resources/pdf/iesna01a.pdf&quot;&gt;Rear Lighting Configurations for Winter Maintenance Vehicles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Flashing lights will be perceived as having higher brightness than steady-burning lights, up to a flash frequency of about 15 flashes per second. Such brightness enhancement can aid in conspicuity, and several rear lighting systems have been designed to have a flash rate between 5 and 9 flashes per second in order to maximize their perceived brightness. While conspicuity may be greater with such configurations, an observer’s ability to make accurate judgements of relative speed or distance may be compromised when flashing or strobing lights are used. Croft observed that the judgments required in tracking an object were difficult to make under strobing conditions, yet very easy in steady-lighting conditions. Observations made during a study of service vehicle lighting for maintenance operations similarly pointed out that strobing and flashing systems designed for maximum conspicuity can at the same time reduce one's ability to judge relative speed and distance. Periodic sampling of the field of view in another study resulted in deterioration of one's motion-tracking ability that increased as the distance to the object of interest decreased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from &lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinepubs.trb.org/onlinepubs/nchrp/nchrp_rpt_624.pdf&quot;&gt;Selection and Application of Warning Lights on Roadway Operations Equipment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Flashes are bursts of light which, by definition, are unexpected&#xA;  because they do not occur in nature (save for lightning).&#xA;  This characteristic is their most important feature and&#xA;  why they are so good at capturing attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="396" LastEditorUserId="396" LastEditDate="2010-12-01T01:25:44.660" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T01:25:44.660" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2292" CreationDate="2010-12-01T02:01:34.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ebay and craigslist, and maybe amazon is pretty much it. Otherwise you can try bikeforums or mtbr for sale subforums in addition to local shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T02:01:34.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2175" CreationDate="2010-12-01T04:15:15.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even runners use the slipstream, and they run at a max of 12mph, but I have enjoyed drafting at considerably slower running speeds. It also depends on the strength of the headwind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as Teddy pointed out, the distance you are from the rider in front is important. This is why runners can draft at relatively slower speeds, although for a skilled cyclist (e.g. one that rides rollers all winter) you can ride just about as close as you could run next to someone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, unless you have a direct headwind, you should ride off to the leeward side. For example, if the wind is coming from the right(left), your right(left) hand / shoulder / arm should be as close to the left(right) butt/thigh of the rider in front as you feel comfortable. Put your head down and enjoy. That is the place where you can hang on when the going gets tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But remember a golden rule - whoever's front hub is in the lead has the right of way (e.g. if you are drafting, you must yield).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T04:15:15.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2292" CreationDate="2010-12-01T05:56:10.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.loosescrews.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Loose Screws Small Bicycle Parts&lt;/a&gt; has a decent selection of small parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T22:20:44.377" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T22:20:44.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2292" CreationDate="2010-12-01T12:54:20.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not had any luck consistently finding used parts online.  For used commuter/entry-level stuff the best source I've found is local garage sales.  For used nicer stuff try your local racing clubs.  They tend to discard nice stuff, for cheap, on a regular basis as they always need the latest greatest to go the fastest.  Surprisingly the local touring bike clubs have not been a great source as those people seem to hold onto stuff forever.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T12:54:20.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2010-12-02T00:39:08.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally am eying this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0030C38Z4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Biologic Bike Mount&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my cheap interim solution was to screw some holes in my snap case, fit some L joints to it and then just mount it on my camera mount. But it sticks up so high, I could see it just shattering if I were to bail. Lost a bike light that way... would hate to lose an iPhone that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="790" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T00:39:08.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2309" CreationDate="2010-12-02T00:48:51.670" Score="5" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience mounting an EVO phone on the handlebars of a road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-12-18T12:53:09.420" LastActivityDate="2010-12-18T12:53:09.420" Title="Android/EVO bike mount recommendations" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;smartphone-mount&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-12-02T06:12:32.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the many excellent answers, I wish to add a few:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Number one advantage to a fixed gear is that it will make you a&#xA;better rider. Not only does it give a smoother pedal stroke, but the fact that it is slower to start and stop forces a smoother overall style. It also forces the rider to ride more safely and to look out for upcoming dangers in the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;note:&lt;/em&gt; Although it does encourage the rider to adopt a generally more cautious riding style, a bike without brakes is not as safe as one with brakes. Even if you can stop by skidding, it is wasteful to ruin a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It not only promotes a more even pedal stroke, &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;facilitates development of a more powerful pedal stroke since riding uphill in a gear that is difficult to turn, or trying to slow down by putting backward pressure provides a load bearing exercise similar to weight lifting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I find that I get a better workout per minute or per mile on a fixed gear than on a freewheel bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48C_KHwt53c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycle ballet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Riding a fixed gear bike is fun.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2010-12-02T06:17:58.990" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T06:17:58.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2306" CreationDate="2010-12-02T14:34:34.507" Score="26" ViewCount="7303" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt; I have spent most of my time riding mountain bikes but I have recently started riding road sometimes too.  I really like the position the road bike puts you in and the fact that you have multiple different hand positions.  So I want to start riding my road bike more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a retro steel Norco road bike.  (Although I am interested in answers regarding aluminum road bikes too). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I am curious how much I need to baby my road bike.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I drop off curbs on my road bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What about logging roads and trails are they fair game?  Can I do some drops?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I add a rack to my road bike how much gear can I put on it before I do damage to the bike?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not interested in whether it is a good idea to ride a road bike down a muddy bumpy trail.  What I am asking is will I hurt my bike?  Even though my bike was second hand and cost me less than $100 I have a strong relationship with it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recognizing Problems:&lt;/strong&gt; I know that I may damage my wheels doing more agressive riding.  It is pretty easy to eye-ball wheels to see if they are ridable.  Is this true for the frame as well?  If I do structural damage to the frame would it be obvious?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cross:&lt;/strong&gt; I think that cyclocross bikes are designed for the kind of riding that I am describing.  Is there any difference between my retro road bike and a cyclocross bike?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; How cautious do I need to be to avoid damaging my road bike?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2017-09-14T17:42:13.660" Title="How Strong is my road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-12-02T17:01:51.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing not yet mentioned is that it forces you to pedal in winter, which keeps your knees warm. It helps you feel the energy you have accumulated -- you can ride a fixie on slicks through snow and ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number one reason for me (already mentioned) is the maintenance cost. For the last year I changed 4 spokes and that's it. The chain was half the price of the 8 gear one and it lasts since I bought it almost 2 years ago. The tires wear off more slowly too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And more subjective:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gives you some extra understanding and a bit more control in the curves. You get more conscious about yourself. You learn to notice the position of the pedals, when you attack an obstacle, places where you need to use brakes. It teaches you new ways to avoid collision, new ways of standing, better balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is different, so that when you go back to riding MTB afterwards -- with two strong brakes, suspension, big tires and studded pedals -- that's another thing you gonna appreciate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T17:01:51.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2304" CreationDate="2010-12-02T17:36:16.580" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question - I went down the same path (MTB -&gt; road bike) and was worried about having to be super gentle. But actually, a road bike is surprisingly strong provided forces are applied in the right direction. Riding off curbs or over bumpy surfaces shouldn't cause a problem, but I wouldn't suggest doing drops. Similarily provided your bike isn't a super lightweight frame (and it sounds like it isn't) fitting a rack will probably be okay (especially if the frame has mounts for them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the pros on the Tour de France used their standard road bikes on the cobbled stages just with special tyres, and those stages were very bumpy. And the teams that used dedicated Paris-Roubaix style bikes mainly did so for comfort and speed, not strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's when you start applying forces to the bikes in ways that weren't intended that you are likely to damage it - i.e. riding into things, jumps or crashing. That's where the extra durability of a mountain bike comes in. It also depends on your weight - without being rude, if you're a big rider simple physics means you are going to stress the bike more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do do damage it may not be easy to see. Especially small cracks may be very had to spot, although if they get big they will be pretty obvious. I certainly wouldn't recommend assuming that just because you can't see problems there aren't any there - you really don't want your fork to fail at the crown which could cause a very serious accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are planning to ride your road bike off road a significant amount you might be better off with a cyclo cross bike. It will be a little bit heavier but stronger and more capable of dealing with crashes, but more importantly it will enable you to fit much wider tyres, and gives much better mud clearance. Many cyclocross bikes have rack mounts on them as well, and the geometry is tweaked to make them more comfortable to ride off road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's just my experience but as a mountain biker, I feel much more comfortable riding a cyclo cross bike - either on or off road - than I do a dedicated road bike, probably because the handling is better (for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-12-02T18:10:04.493" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T18:10:04.493" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2010-12-02T19:49:27.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.apple.com/uk/product/H0807ZM/A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.apple.com/uk/product/H0807ZM/A&lt;/a&gt; in the Apple store yesterday. I didn't buy one, but did play with it. It came with an iPhone 4 insert, looked at least showerproof and plenty sturdy. Would mount on stem or bars, has a headphone pass-through, camera window and the touch screen works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that if you removed the insert you might even fit the phone in with a battery jacket and get to run the GPS for more than a couple of hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only downside I could see was that the light sensor is covered, so that the auto-brightness turns right down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T19:49:27.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2259" CreationDate="2010-12-02T21:37:25.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;See:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.equinoxtrailers.com/store/browse/101&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.equinoxtrailers.com/store/browse/101&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fitting a hitch mount onto your seat stay, chain stay or a rack which is attached to the stays are good solutions.  The frame is weaker at the connections to the rear drop out.  There are instances of the frame breaking at this point when a trailer is connected to the rear hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZDKAN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZDKAN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N38LY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N38LY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="donald nordin" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T00:23:36.657" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T00:23:36.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2301" CreationDate="2010-12-03T10:34:45.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always try making your own. There are lots of different ideas for designs over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/pages/search/search.jsp?cx=partner-pub-1783560022203827%3Anpr2q7v5m6t&amp;amp;cof=FORID%3A11&amp;amp;ie=ISO-8859-1&amp;amp;q=phone+handlebar+mount&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructables&lt;/a&gt; the one below uses the bracket off an old reflector plus a phone holder (ie for mounting your phone on a car dashboard) screwed to it. More details &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Quick-Dirty-Bicycle-Phone-Mount/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I particularly like the rubber bands for extra security. My main worry would be the rain though and the danger of getting the phone wet (but then I do live near Manchester in the UK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WDVjv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;smart phone handlebar mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T10:34:45.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="257" CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:14:45.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two resources I know of that might help (or, possibly, cause more confusion):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wrenchscience.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WrenchScience&lt;/a&gt; fit system. You have to sign up for account to get access to it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;amp;t=51071&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sizining &amp;amp; fitting spreadsheet&lt;/a&gt; on WW&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="679" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T21:14:45.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:48:45.260" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had great success with my local bike shop shipping to another bike shop. You can call around your destination and see what options there are, but this allows you to rebuild the bike easily at your destination without your whole workshop of tools. In addition, your local bike shop will often have the proper packing materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I like to tinker on my bike myself, I simply don't have the proper shipping equipment, and my local shop does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="860" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T21:48:45.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-03T22:48:26.197" Score="-1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a liability to using the path for pedestrians and bikers while training on a racing bike - in Florida? Can I use the path, too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Ernst" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-12-05T18:47:16.710" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T23:48:14.777" Title="Training on a bike path" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2244" CreationDate="2010-12-03T22:51:16.150" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Rema Tip-Top&lt;/em&gt; patches that I use--which sound similar to those which the questioner describes--come with instructions in each plastic box.  The package that I have shows the instructions pictorally in seven steps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the product that I use:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artscyclery.com/descpage-79002.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.artscyclery.com/descpage-79002.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In step 7, &lt;strong&gt;the manufacturer distinctly recommends that the user remove the plastic backing.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually remove this cellophane backing myself.  It sometimes is a little finnicky--if your patch isn't totally set it will seem to pull up the patch.  Just use your thumb to set the patch more carefully.  In the package's Step 6, the manufacturer uses a totally unidentifiable rectagular object to smooth out the patch before removing the cellophane.  I use my thumb, personally, and it works just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one side of the cellophane won't seem to come off without removing the patch, you didn't put down enough vulcanizing fluid.  Try the other side.  If the patch is reasonably centered, this shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer about leaching chemicals is news to me--though I admit freely that I never looked farther than the instructions in the box for advice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once in a moment of frustration, I left the cellophane on and put it into the tire--no problems so far.  I had some concern there would be a problem if the cellophane were stuck between the rim and the bead but this doesn't seem to have been a problem for Anthony K or Darren Cope.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as though it doesn't matter, but the manufacturer of Rema patches recommends removing it.  I say remove it carefully.  This is best done if you are generous with the vulcanizing fluid and careful to press the patch into place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T22:51:16.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2259" CreationDate="2010-12-03T23:16:38.670" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A trailer with a 100# capacity fully loaded over the axle is unlikely to cause significant damage to your bicycle frame--even using the attachment device shown for the Rhode Gear trailer, above.  The &quot;tongue weight&quot; of such a trailer would probably be in the twenty-to-thirty pound range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just don't load this trailer--or any trailer--with all of the weight forward of the axle.  Minimize your tongue weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember we're talking about tubular steel on your bike which is some pretty strong stuff.  I wouldn't hang an automobile trailer on it or anything, but it can handle this little trailer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also.  How many times can you load a Rhode Gear trailer up with 100# and still have a trailer?  I think the trailer is the weak link in this equation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most often, you will use this trailer with maybe 40-50# max, right?  Even pulling it every day--not likely to cause much problem.  If you start a bicycle-based concrete business, go back to the commuter bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a Sakae Ringyo Litage.  Thin aluminum tubing--road racing geometry--from the early 90's.  I pull a trailer with it from time to time--sometimes a Burley flatbed with a lawnmower onboard.  (Ususally, if I'm smart, I pull it with my Schwinn Tempo).  Someday that aluminum frame is going to break on me.  It isn't going to be the trailer's fault--it's going to be the 200# rider that causes it to break!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your steel frame is going to be fine pulling that trailer for the trailer's entire natural life.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride on!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T23:16:38.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2010-12-04T03:02:42.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that it's ridiculous that bicyclists wear so little protection.  I fell recently doing 20 miles an hour and broke my collarbone, damaged my shoulder and busted open my chin--all while wearing a dinky helmet.  I've concluded that a 15-25 mile bicycle crash is all that it takes to do permanent damage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I began to wonder why my motorcycle friends wear more protective gear and I don't.  They wear better helmets, shoulder pads, chaps, etc all to protect them from road rash and more severe injuries.  Bicyclists go out half naked but travel at only slightly slower speeds that motorcyclists around urban streets.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ANSWER:: I've concluded that bicyclists are less protected because there are no role models for being more protected.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowhere do you see Professionals in pads and a better helmet.  When every cyclist that you see in print and video is shown unprotected, the rest of us poseurs become too embarrassed to wear protective garb.  The message from the media and professionals is &quot;Man Up. Ride Unprotected.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Bonebreaker" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-01-17T06:00:19.423" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T06:00:19.423" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2312" CreationDate="2010-12-04T06:09:57.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will differ by locality, but in general the rule is that cyclists yield to pedestrians.  This means that if you are involved in a collision with a pedestrian there will be a presumption that you were in some way at fault or negligent and will likely have to prove instead that the pedestrian was at fault before any claim for liability can be made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2010-12-04T06:09:57.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2312" CreationDate="2010-12-04T12:34:29.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest not training or riding on the bike path at higher speeds.  If it's allowable in your locality.  Get back on the road with the cars!  I believe it is safer, although data doesn't exist to support that claim (bike path crashes generally aren't reported).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had 2 higher speed (25+mph) collisions with pedestrians (Dc Area), both caused  by pedestrians suddenly veering across my path and I was unable to avoid.  1 was a small child who disobeyed her parents and ran across the path.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second was a runner w/ ipod and didn't hear my audibles and changed direction at a point on the path where you wouldn't expect (he was turning around and heading back).  This was actually quite common and I had numerous near-crashes with runners who couldn't hear anything over their music.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was the reason I stopped using the bike paths for training/commuting when I realized it wasn't safe for anyone (either cyclist or pedestrian) if the cyclists are travelling that fast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2010-12-05T01:59:47.783" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T01:59:47.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2321" CreationDate="2010-12-05T10:27:52.487" Score="14" ViewCount="6548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently riding a loaner from my brother in-law, and I have set the seat height based upon feel.  I was wondering though as to how I can set it to the right height for me to ride more scientifically?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also need to set it back to his height when I give the bike back in a weeks time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-12-06T01:08:59.660" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T23:03:24.197" Title="At what height should I have my seat on a road bike?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2319" CreationDate="2010-12-05T12:43:17.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Raise the seat until your leg is almost fully extended at the end of a downstroke (i.e., knee bent only a little bit).  When you stop you'll be unable to put feet down on both sides, so either lean to one side or come off the seat and straddle the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, better yet, go to a bike shop and ask them to do it for you.  They'll probably be happy to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="537" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T12:43:17.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2319" CreationDate="2010-12-05T19:40:53.973" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to determine the seat height for a road bicycle. But you should also pay attention to how you feel while riding your bike at different heights. In addition, it is important to consider your entire position, not only the seat height. Finally, if you are riding a lot, change your seat height in small increments over time to avoid injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the popular methods for determining seat height:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There should be some bend in your knee at the bottom of the stroke; &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your seat is too high if you should have to wobble your hips with each pedal stroke to reach the pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your seat is too low if your thighs hit your stomach  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sit on the bike, put your heel on the pedal, and your leg should be fully extended. This provides a good starting point &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another good starting point is Greg Lemond's recommendation from &quot;Greg LeMond's complete book of cycling&quot; states that the distance from the top of the seat to the center of the pedal should be 0.833 times the distance from the floor to your crotch, measured with your back and heels against a wall. If you use clipless pedals, subtract 3cm; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you drop your heels at the bottom of the pedal stroke, decrease the height and if you point your toes, increase the height  relative to these recommendations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you need more control (crit racing, urban cycling, bicycle polo) lower the seat; for more power (hill climbing, time trialing), increase the seat height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, once you get these starting points, you can adjust until it feels right. I would also suggest getting a professional fit, especially if you ride a lot or are planning to purchase a new bike. Probably the most important attribute of a new bicycle is it's fit. A proper fit will do more for your riding enjoyment, skill, and speed than any component or frame material (excluding department store bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some good online resources include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caree.org/bike101bikefit.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.caree.org/bike101bikefit.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of references found in the chapter on &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=msdT4iQ50cgC&amp;amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;amp;source=gbs_atb#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Body Position for Cycling&lt;/a&gt; from the book &quot;High Tech Cycling&quot; by Ed Burke. The entire book can be read at google books.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZiXL.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2010-12-07T23:03:24.197" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T23:03:24.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2324" CreationDate="2010-12-05T20:06:13.443" Score="22" ViewCount="1234" Body="&lt;p&gt;What skills and techniques are required to descending at high speeds while maintaining control of the bicycle? How does this change when the roads are wet or have gravel in them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4Cv7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T04:19:13.737" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T13:18:06.527" Title="How to descend mountain roads?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;skills&gt;&lt;handling&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-05T20:44:44.943" Score="7" ViewCount="1637" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain on my SS mt bike keeps coming off the rear cog under load (like when I hit a steep hill) it will hold right after it's tightened but after a few hills it starts coming off non-stop. Talked to the LBS they so far are just telling me to tighten the tensioner, I was thinking i might need a bigger rear cog for more &quot;chain wrap&quot; any advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Serda" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T21:15:34.083" Title="Single speed conversion chain keeps derailing rear cog under load?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2010-12-05T21:24:36.567" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst I come from a mountain bike background so my advice might be different from someone with a road background, I've found the following tips work well when I've been on a road bike in the mountains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your weight centered - don't be tempted to lean back. You want to keep a good amount of weight over the front wheel to help it grip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look through the corner, not at the corner, focusing on the exit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On dry roads with a good surface you can probably lean the bike a lot further than you realise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake before the corner, not in the corner. Braking in the corner will cause the bike to &quot;stand up&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have to brake through the corner, only use the back brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can clearly see through the corner, use the full width of the road (but ONLY if you have good visibility of what is coming up the hill).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On wet roads, go slower :-) The same advice applies, but it's even more important to not use the front brake in the corner. And in gravel, take it slow - it's just not worth taking risks because you can lose the front wheel without any warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to lean to descend mountain roads is to follow someone who knows the road and has carbon rims. You'll be able to hear them braking and you'll be surprised how much faster you can go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T21:24:36.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2328" CreationDate="2010-12-05T23:04:28.300" Score="9" ViewCount="5747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just pulled my seat out as the first step of breaking my bike down for winter storage, and found that rust has formed between my seat tube and my seat post. The rust starts maybe 3&quot; down the tube and continues for perhaps 4 more inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to remove the rust from the tube and post? What steps can I take to prevent it from reforming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6NYfs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:48:48.167" Title="How do I remove rust from my seat tube?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;rust&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2323" CreationDate="2010-12-05T23:34:03.713" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some possible culprits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cog and the chainring are not in line.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rear hub is not tight enough and twists under load (see 1.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;chain is stretched or cogs worn out - so the chain doesn't 'seat' well in teeth&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;what the shop says - chain not tight enough&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2010-12-09T19:55:51.873" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T19:55:51.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1912" CreationDate="2010-12-05T23:40:25.350" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best reasons for having a round pedal stroke is efficiency. If you pedal stroke is smooth and efficient, you will get more power to the wheels with less effort. Some exercises for improving your pedal stroke; the winter is a great time for such low intensity exercises. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pedal a very big gear up hill (20-40 rpm) for intervals of 5-10 min x 2-5/day&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pedal with one leg at a time 2-5x4-10 min x twice/week&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ride rollers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ride a fixed gear&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;combine two or more of the above.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that it is not actually possible to get a perfect pedal stroke. I learned the above exercises from one of Massimo Testa's apprentices who was coaching the UC Davis cycling team. My pedal stroke was smoother than many professionals who had been through the lab, but as you can see (below) my dead spot (going over the top) was only 1/6 as powerful as my down stroke (at 90 degrees). This test was done with pressure sensors on each pedal. My right and left feet are shown by the blue and red lines respectively, at a constant power of 120W and about 90 rpm.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iislf.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="37820" LastEditDate="2018-05-16T17:01:47.463" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T17:01:47.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2325" CreationDate="2010-12-06T14:56:24.990" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can probably use a small wire brush to get the rust out of the frame and for the future use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/JP-Weigle-Frame-Saver-Aerosol-Can&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;JP Weigle Frame Saver&lt;/a&gt; spray. It acts as a rust inhibitor so should slow down/stop any rust forming on the inside of the frame. You can get frame saver at JensenUSA (I'm sure there are lots of other spots too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:48:48.167" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T07:48:48.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2331" CreationDate="2010-12-06T18:45:49.730" Score="5" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a flat on the way to work today.  Not really earth shattering, it was about 5 miles in, only a short walk until the office, where I could fix it in comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But walking the bike, I noticed an odd behaviour.  The flat was on the front wheel, and I noticed that once per revolution, the handlebars would turn slightly to the left.  Very consistent, just as the valve would get to the bottom of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause this?  Is it just the valve being slightly thicker than the (now deflated) tube, or did I somehow damage my rim in the short while between the puncture and me stopping the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T19:25:10.650" Title="Damaged rim or just the tube valve?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1912" CreationDate="2010-12-06T18:50:57.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ride on a trainer some of the time, consider getting a set of rollers. They force you to ride smoothly at a high cadence so you don't bounce up and down, and I've seen them dramatically improve my girlfriend's pedalling technique. They're much better for your technique than a turbo trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T18:50:57.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2329" CreationDate="2010-12-06T18:55:07.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible you damaged your rim, but it should be very easy to check. Turn the bike over and spin the wheel and eyeball it both side to side and up and down. If you have put a flat spot in the rim it should be very noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's more likely that it is just the way the (flat) tyre is sitting on the rim, which might well be affected by the valve. If you've got a narrow tyre and a lockring on the valve, that may be holding the tyre on the rim at that point only, causing a wobble when that part of the wheels hits the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T18:55:07.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2340" CreationDate="2010-12-06T19:44:02.877" Score="8" ViewCount="1597" Body="&lt;p&gt;With mountain bikes, what do you think is more efficient: highly preloading the fork and using low tire pressure or having a &quot;bouncy&quot; fork and hard tire pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to have the fork with quite a high pre-load and then I set my front tire to around 1.8-2.0 Bar (around 25-30 PSI). I think this gives me good response on the fork, not wasting much energy and also gives me good control on technical zones, specially descending. I sholuld also mention that my fork (Rock Shox Tora 302) has remote lockout which I mostly use in asphalt and technically-easy zones. Bike frame is made of aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I see some of my colleagues having soft forks, which IMHO bounce quite a lot, and they say they inflate their tires to almost maximum pressure possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to what extent is rebound control important here? I like it to be more absorving than bouncing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T22:05:00.060" Title="Hard fork and low tire pressure or viceversa?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1157" CreationDate="2010-12-06T20:23:04.683" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They have one big benefit on road / commuting bikes - they stop the valve corroding and seizing due to the salt and crap they get exposed to. On a mountain bike, this isn't such a problem, as the salt gets washed off by puddles and mud (and you tend to wash your mountain bike more). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's been my experience in the muddy, wet UK, when the roads are salted for over half the year. I leave them on the road and commuting bikes, and leave them off the MTB for speed of tyre changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T20:23:04.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1157" CreationDate="2010-12-06T20:45:01.117" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nobody has noted this yet, so maybe I'm particularly clumsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caps prevent you from bending the somewhat delicate presta valve stem if, like me, you're fitting a fairly beefy lock between your spokes every day. I smacked mine pretty good after a groggy morning commute, and it bent the valve stem pretty severely. They're somewhat known for snapping off when you try to bend them back, but I was lucky in that regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since I've kept valve caps on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T12:20:25.587" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T12:20:25.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2323" CreationDate="2010-12-06T21:55:51.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely you do not need a larger cog.  If you need more tension and you're out of drop-out space, you probably need a shorter chain.  You may need to remove a link or use a half-link.  Otherwise, David's suggestions are all recommended.  Check your chain-line, chain &amp;amp; cog wear and make sure your wheel is tightened adequately.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T21:55:51.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2329" CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:01:28.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A flat tire will rarely damage the rim unless you hit a rather large pothole which resulted in a pinch flat.  However, you may need to true the wheel which could be why you're noticing the wheel being out of alignment.  Otherwise, it's probably the tire causing the wheel to wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tell if the rim is off,   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T22:01:28.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2325" CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:12:50.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 using Frame Saver.  I live in a rainy area and use it on all my steel bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to completely clean the rust off before application, use a copper wire cone brush (w/ long drill attachment) big enough to fit snugly in the seat tube.  Use the low-speed drill setting and gradually run it up and down the inside of the tube.  You can also use a rust cleaner and apply it to the brush or even some WD40 to help break up the rust.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have it, you can clean out the tube with a sponge brush attachment.  Next, plug up the holes of the frame and lightly spray the Frame Saver inside.  Roll the frame around to completely coat and set aside to dry for 24-48 hours.  It will feel tacky, but not wet when dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To completely side step this problem, you could also buy a non-steel seat post.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T22:12:50.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2312" CreationDate="2010-12-06T23:28:24.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Training on a bike path?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure about Florida, but, training on a bike path can be great....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need to do is to determine the bike path usage. I've found several paved pedestrian/bike paths mainly used on weekends. And, during the weekdays, the path is mine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also note that the paths I use are generally empty once the weather is cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Florida? Who knows about your bike paths? I'd bet that this time of year, your bike paths are getting crowded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's not complicated... you don't train on a bike path full of other users. ...you are more than welcome to train on an empty path... Use your judgement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-12-06T23:48:14.777" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T23:48:14.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2010-12-06T23:41:33.713" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I have to add to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2322/how-to-descend-mountain-roads/2324#2324&quot;&gt;Chris's answer&lt;/a&gt; is that brakes can overheat rims on long descents. I'll either alternate brakes front-back where possible, or &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt; pulse them a little from time to time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T23:41:33.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2332" CreationDate="2010-12-07T03:48:38.050" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think tire pressure should be set on how cushy you want your ride (unless you have no shocks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire pressure pressure and tread selection should be done based on how much traction you need. The trade off is that with more traction, you get a higher rolling resistance and you need to exert more energy to cover the same ground. This is why road bike tires look different than mountain bike tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More traction =&gt; Lower tire pressure, knobbier tiers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less traction =&gt; Higher tire pressure, smoother tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you figure out what tread and tire pressure is best for you and your riding enviorment, then you can think about dialing in your fork and stiffness and damping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fork &lt;strong&gt;stiffness&lt;/strong&gt; is somewhat subjective, but it's probably best to set it so that you only bottom out the shock when you take a pretty big hit. Most people set the stiffness of the fork based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/07/24/suspension-setup-series-1-set-your-sag-properly/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sag&lt;/a&gt;, sag is the percentage that your shock deflects under your static body weight. Most people set their shocks to sag between 25-33%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork &lt;strong&gt;damping&lt;/strong&gt; (what you call rebound) should be set so that for your weight the fork is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping#Critical_damping_.28.CE.B6_.3D_1.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;critically damped&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. No if's and's or but's about this one, physics dictates that the best ride is one where you are neither under or over damped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T22:05:00.060" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T22:05:00.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2010-12-07T09:47:05.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your case I'd use glasses for eye protection: shades for sunny days and transparent ones for cloudy ones. I work in Girona, a colleague went to the ophthalmologist on his bike and he quickly guessed he had gone there in a bike due to the pollution particles on his contact lenses. I guess if you don't use contact lenses this ends up directly on your eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use cheap glasses from Decathlon which are very affordable and have interchangeable lenses. I mostly use them for cross-country mountain bike or road cycling. They also help prevent things getting in your eyes in bad weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastEditorUserId="26152" LastEditDate="2016-11-28T21:06:07.003" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T21:06:07.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2329" CreationDate="2010-12-07T19:25:10.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This means that you may have put a flat spot in your rim. Another thing, it could have been the hub. The hub has either sealed or unsealed berrings inside, depending on the quality of your bike. To check if the berrings are dammaged, you simply unscrew the axel nuts in order to take off the wheel. You then proceed by taking the lock nut off completely. Then you unscrew the hub bolt only enough to see the berrings. If there is shredded metal inside, you need new berrings or a new hub. Depending on the company of bike, they may warranty it. You'd have to check with them to find out. Do not unscrew the hub bolt all the way. This will break the warranty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jesse COnner" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T19:25:10.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2010-12-08T22:38:02.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another tip or two from a road biking perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cornering, remember to drive down the outside leg and lean on the inside drop. If you need to throw a knee out, that's fine, but keep your outside elbow in close and your head and shoulders level. This will help ensure your tires stay in contact with the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay relaxed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Chris said above, keep your eyes on the exit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T22:38:02.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="990" CreationDate="2010-12-08T23:02:54.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I learned to do a track stand, I learned to balance a BMX bike while sitting with my left foot on the pedal so that I could push forward and my right foot on the front tire so that I could move it back and forth to keep my balance. This provided me with the feel of the basic rocking technique that is required to do a track stand, even though I did not know what a track stand was at the time, and it made doing a track stand easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2011-11-25T03:13:46.110" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T03:13:46.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2323" CreationDate="2010-12-09T02:31:35.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your front and rear cogs are inline, the most likely reason that it keeps popping off is that the chain is not tight enough. For me, simply pulling the axle as far back as it will go and tightening the nuts is not enough. I don't use a chain tensioner, I use the wheel as a lever to tension the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How I Tighten My Chain&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat the chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looking forward push right side of the hub axle as far back as it will go such that the right side of your tire can is hitting your frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the right side hub nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay your bike down, peddle side down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place your left foot gently on the the frame near the bottom bracket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With your left hand, grab the rear tire by the bottom bracket next to your foot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull up (perpendicular to the plane of the wheel) &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt; on your tire. This should have the effect of using the tire rim as a lever arm to cam your rear cog farther backward, fully tensioning the chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull up enough so the tire is centered and no longer touching the right side of the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using that wrench you are holding in you right hand, tighten the left side axle nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: Be careful you shouldn't have to pull on the rim to hard. If you need to you can always go back and adjust the right axle nut forward a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-12-09T21:15:34.083" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T21:15:34.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2347" CreationDate="2010-12-09T12:55:12.347" Score="7" ViewCount="1578" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been considering purchasing a Boardman Pro CX Cyclocross Road Bike Large 2010. (Broken link replaced with Google &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=Boardman+Pro+CX+Cyclocross+Road+Bike+Large+2010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;search&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spec says the wheels are 700C and that it comes with 700 x 35C tyres. I'm wondering, should it be also possible to fit some thinner road tyres with sizes 700x20c, 700x23c or 700x25c?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T22:20:19.703" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T22:20:19.703" Title="Can I fit road tyres on a cyclo cross bike?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2346" CreationDate="2010-12-09T15:10:48.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can! It looks like that bike comes with Mavic CXP23 rims, which can fit down to 19mm tires I think. You would defiantly have no problem with 700x23 tires. I'm surprised it comes with 35, that seems a bit wide for those rims, but you should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastEditorUserId="407" LastEditDate="2010-12-10T13:21:39.577" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T13:21:39.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2265" CreationDate="2010-12-09T21:30:42.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about riding your bike on normal streets, then this might be helpfull.&#xA;I recently got lots of experience riding on various kinds of snow. Here in Germany, the bicycle paths are cleared and sometimes salt is put on them so that you have various mixtures of mud and snow. I find it easiest to ride on a road where no salt is put on and where the feet of the people made the snow essentially a flat hard surface. Riding on that type of snow is possible even with temperatures below 10 Fahrenheit. If you have snow about 5 inches deep and not yet a hard surface but lots of footsteps and bike traces, then it is difficult to ride. You bump constantly into tiny snow hills, and you will drive in snake lines or fall off. If you have salt on the road and it is no colder than 20 Fahrenheit, then it is ok to ride in this snow-water mud. It get much more difficult to ride if you go below 20 Fahrenheit, then the mud freezes, even if you follow the path of other bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="882" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T21:30:42.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-09T21:47:27.493" Score="16" ViewCount="4952" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is wet, not necessarily pouring rain, it is easy to get the bottom of the pants and the shoes dirty. My tires have &lt;strike&gt;protective plates&lt;/strike&gt;fenders, yet it is not enough. If there a way to avoid that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="882" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T16:22:28.597" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T17:51:22.190" Title="How to keep the pants from getting dirty" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2353" CreationDate="2010-12-09T21:59:20.770" Score="17" ViewCount="31211" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2325/how-do-i-remove-rust-from-my-seat-tube&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; I asked how to remove rust from my seat tube/post. In the comments of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2325/how-do-i-remove-rust-from-my-seat-tube/2328#2328&quot;&gt;one answer&lt;/a&gt; somebody said I should be oiling my seat post to prevent it from rusting into my seat tube, but I'm concerned this will cause the tube to slip when jarred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be applying a thin coat of oil to my seat post to prevent rust from forming between it an the seat tube? What sort of oil, if any, should I be using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T17:33:04.823" Title="Should I oil my seat post?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;rust&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2350" CreationDate="2010-12-09T22:15:04.943" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should &lt;strong&gt;absolutely&lt;/strong&gt; grease your seatpost (unless it is carbon fiber). It won't slip around if your seatpost clamp is properly tightened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a thing of grease from the bike shop, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/polylube-1000-lubricant-tube-ppl-1?category=Cleaning%20&amp;amp;%20Lubes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the park tool PPL-1 grease.&lt;/a&gt; Better yet, get the big tub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, generously apply it all over inside your seattube. When you think you have enough, add some more. Then put the seatpost in and twist it around a lot and move it up and down to ensure the grease covers all of the seatposts surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screw threads are often greased when they are installed, but that doesn't cause them to get loose any easier. Same thing with the seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2016-08-20T17:33:04.823" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T17:33:04.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2010-12-09T22:20:08.250" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Protective plates?  You mean &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory/587#587&quot;&gt;Fenders/Mudguards&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of 3 things that could help, other than simply bringing a change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bigger fenders (wider, and/or go down the tire more).  Basically, some fenders are better than others. A front fender that's wider than the tire with a stay (rod) going back for support that hugs the tire fairly closely  and extends down to the height of the bottom bracket is ideal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A mudflap hanging from the bottom of the front fender.  This is a flap made of something flexible (rubber, leather, etc) that hangs from the bottom of the fender.  It effectively extends the fender down even further without it being a problem if it hits something.  Some fenders/mudguards come with this. Or you can add one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protective pants over your regular pants.  I have a pair of yellow rain pants that I put on over my regular pants when cycling in the rain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing will be 100%. It's always possible to get splashed by something else from the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T22:20:08.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2350" CreationDate="2010-12-09T23:05:54.297" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Greasing your seatpost will prevent problems like this:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/418/removing-seat-post-rusted-into-downtube&quot;&gt;&quot;Removing Seat Post rusted into downtube&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use chain oil, grease is what you want.  As whatsisname pointed out, all fasteners on your bike should be lightly greased.  This is what keeps them from corroding and seizing over time, becoming a real pain to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have trouble with a slipping seatpost (like me), carbon grease is what you need.  Contains enough grit to keep from sliding, while still offering protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T23:05:54.297" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2373" CreationDate="2010-12-10T05:55:45.113" Score="5" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I last used a heart rate monitor (about eight years ago), wrist-watch only monitors seem to have increased in popularity (based on the offerings at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_i_1?rh=k%3aheart+rate+monitor,i%3asporting&amp;amp;keywords=heart+rate+monitor&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1291955116#/ref=sr_nr_p_4_1?rh=k%3Aheart+rate+monitor%2Cn%3A3375251%2Cp_4%3APolar%7CTimex&amp;amp;bbn=3375251&amp;amp;sort=salesrank&amp;amp;keywords=heart+rate+monitor&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1291955170&amp;amp;rnid=219891011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt; apparently these watches come with a chest strap, although the chest-strap is not included in the product description.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 90's and early 00's, heart rate monitors never lasted me more than a year or two before the signal or the contacts started to fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary question is ... can you recommended an inexpensive (&amp;lt;$50) monitor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T08:06:19.417" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T01:10:50.700" Title="Recommended inexpensive heart-rate monitors?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2358" CreationDate="2010-12-10T12:48:46.810" Score="18" ViewCount="6809" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's currently winter in the UK, so for my commete to and from work I need lights and reflective surfaces for safety. I've read about local people losing their lives cycling, so I don want to make myself as visible and safe as possible. I currently have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lighting&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 x &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Smart-Lunar-Lux-Front-Light/dp/B002Q4TZDG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smart Lunar 35 Lux front lights&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebuyer.com/product/148863?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=products&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Energizer head torch&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Smart-Lunar-Watt-Light-Batt-Inc/dp/B002Q4TZEU/ref=pd_sim_sg_2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smart Lunar R 1/2 Watt Rear Light&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fibre-flare-ultimate-safety-single-rear-tail-light/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fibre light&lt;/a&gt; (Flashing red) attached to back  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reflective&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALTURA-MENS-NEVIS-WATERPROOF-CYCLING-BIKE-JACKET-_W0QQitemZ400143084644QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=129850004409&amp;amp;rvr_id=129850004409&amp;amp;cguid=a47691f11290a0aad3a01120fe1d7110#ht_1160wt_905&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ALTURA MENS NEVIS WATERPROOF CYCLING BIKE JACKET&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sekuclip-Bicycle-Reflective-Spoke-Clips/dp/B002Q9N3AM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M Reflective spoke covers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying and fitting &lt;strong&gt;electroluminescent wire&lt;/strong&gt; to my bike frame in order to make myself more visible. Does anyone have any thoughts or first hand experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one hand I consider the brighter and more visible I am, the safer I am. However I'm already got lots of lighting and reflective surfaces on my bike. Also I've made sure that my front facing lights are white, rear facing red and other surfaces reflective. So I worry that el wire could add a non-standard and confusing colour into the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update: 4th December 2012&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I found some el wire for £6 at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suntekstore.com/goods-14002205-10_feet_flexible_blue_el_wire_with_inverter.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Suntekstore&lt;/a&gt; so I decided to give it a go! I've also recorded a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pp0xKOkZ1CE&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;quick video&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Et6IR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My bike with el wire&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="696" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T21:34:32.063" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T11:27:58.717" Title="Night cycling: Is it worth using electroluminescent wire?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2355" CreationDate="2010-12-10T13:34:44.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, that's about 5x more lighting than I have on my bike! Good for you! I am a big fan of those reflective jackets, they really light up in the car headlights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think i agree with you about the confusing color, and some states have laws about what color lighting you can have on your car. Mostly for good reason because drivers get distracted when they see something unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T13:34:44.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-10T14:10:35.133" Score="8" ViewCount="4653" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winter is coming! Last season I put my road bike in the garage and just rode my mountain bike all winter. Something strange happened: my suspension fork froze. When spring came everything unfroze and was a-ok. Questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should my fork freeze when it is cold outside?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you like having suspension when it is below freezing?  I mostly just do road/logging roads.  There are not really any trails where I am.  I don't see too much value to suspension in the winter.  Comments?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to use suspension in the winter do you need a special fork or can you service your fork somehow?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T19:48:35.433" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T19:49:25.300" Title="Frozen suspension in the winter" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;frozen&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2355" CreationDate="2010-12-10T16:27:56.750" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some interesting research &lt;a href=&quot;http://acrs.org.au/wp-content/uploads/ACRS-Vol_21-3-WebLR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (pp 56-60), in amongst some decent comparisons of methodologies, they suggest that reflective material on the major joints makes the real difference in having cyclists being identifiable and identified. The thinking, as I understand it, is that lights are just lights and could be on (more or less) anything but reflective material on ankles and knees introduces motion and makes you look like a cyclist to a viewer's subconscious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't to say that you shouldn't light yourself up like a Christmas tree, but unusual and unexpected things aren't necessarily going to help you be noticed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T11:27:58.717" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T11:27:58.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2355" CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:19:56.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest advantage of EL wire is that it would increase your &lt;em&gt;side&lt;/em&gt; visibility.  Front and real lights aren't that great for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my folder, I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://catalog.alamedabicycle.com/product/cat-eye-orbit-spoke-lite-amber-led-sku-lt4400-qc53.htm&quot;&gt;wheel lights&lt;/a&gt; installed - with the small wheels on the folder, they make a very distinct pattern, very noticeable to drivers that are otherwise likely to T-bone me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T18:19:56.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2357" CreationDate="2010-12-10T20:02:22.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Well it needs to be pretty cold, but it can happen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's really up to you. Personally I don't use suspension out of the trails. You might want to use a suspension if the road you use is particularly bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork oil properties will change with the cold. So if you live in a place where it gets seriously cold, you might want to look into an oil that's more adapted for winter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T20:02:22.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2350" CreationDate="2010-12-11T01:05:59.673" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heavy, water-proof grease is a good idea.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slipperiness isn't the reason for the grease. The goal here is to keep out moisture and oxygen, thereby discouraging oxidation. Aluminum oxide is especially problematic, as its molecules are substantially larger than the aluminum molecules in your seat post. Oxidation will cause it to jam very tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you don't have to worry your seat post slipping. The surface of the seat post and seat tube are not perfectly smooth. The &quot;high spots&quot; will push the grease out of the way, in to the &quot;low spots&quot; where you might otherwise see moisture and oxygen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't take much grease to do the trick, since the seat post is already quite snug. Just make sure it's all covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases it's possible for grease to get trapped and not be able to squeeze out, giving a result similar to hydroplaning. You tighten &amp;amp; tighten and things are still slippery. It's not likely in this case, because the seat post clamp is narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For overkill, you can even use anti-seize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MnvbY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Anti-seize&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-12-11T01:05:59.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2010-12-11T11:25:17.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't cycled for years, but I walk about 9,5 kilometers to work every workday (and the same distance back), so I know the problem well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience the single most efficient measure is to wear shoes and pants of light colors - light gray, clay, etc, so that typical dirt is not that visible on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fixes the problem once and for all - I wash my sand color jeans once in maybe three weeks and I just never wash light color shoes - their outsoles get abrased to holes faster (that is in about three months).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastActivityDate="2010-12-11T11:25:17.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2357" CreationDate="2010-12-12T10:14:22.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very timely question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cold winter (we have lowest -28°C here) is a big test for any fork. The third winter I rode a bike, since my fork is not cheap, I decided to &lt;strong&gt;temporarily change it to a cheap rigid fork&lt;/strong&gt; (it can even be used). Last winter my fork was freezing every ride so I can imagine how much the fork is experiencing every freeze-unfreeze-freeze-unfreeze-...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="804" LastEditorUserId="1789" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:30:50.360" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:30:50.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-12T14:59:00.843" Score="6" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a few rides in mucky trails, I am finding my Norco Bush Pilot pedals are getting rough and do not spin very well. Additionally, the plastic of the pedals are getting pretty beat up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize the bike is not exactly high end, but what should I look for when judging quality pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intuition so far is to look for:&#xA;1) a good all-weather seal around the bearings &#xA;2) a platform ready for rugged use (steel?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastActivityDate="2010-12-22T14:22:55.177" Title="What to look for in quality mountain bike pedals?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-12T16:26:42.273" Score="0" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/692/what-to-use-to-clean-your-chain-and-cogs&quot;&gt;What to use to clean your chain (and cogs)?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mountain bike drive train has accumulated a dirt /oil layer from oiling the chain and then ridding in dirt and muck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I safely clean my chain and gear so I can put a fresh coat of chain oil on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2010-12-12T16:26:42.273" Title="How do I clean my drive train?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2010-12-14T14:40:25.563" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2367" CreationDate="2010-12-12T17:07:39.547" Score="5" ViewCount="510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to San Francisco. I've taken up biking the last few months while I have been here, and I want to do a variety of rides around the city.  I am having no trouble making up my own, but I have been unable to find a good resource that has routes already mapped out.  If anyone has any websites they can point me to, that would be very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="821" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T06:47:18.703" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T21:17:45.743" Title="bike routes around san francisco?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;maps&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2366" CreationDate="2010-12-12T17:32:19.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sfbike.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;San Francisco Bicycle Coalition&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sfbike.org/?maps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SF Bike Map &amp;amp; Walking Guide&lt;/a&gt; that they'll give you if you join, or you can buy it at just about any bike shop in SF or online.  (and the online version at that link isn't bad).  It's got bicycle-friendly routes color-coded.  They also have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sfbike.org/?chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;various organized rides and other events&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SF Bike Coalition and &lt;a href=&quot;http://511.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;511.org&lt;/a&gt; worked together to make &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycling.511.org/bikemapper.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeMapper&lt;/a&gt;, a bicycle-specific tool for finding routes around SF.  (also available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sfbike.org/mapper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on SF Bike's site&lt;/a&gt; but set up a little differently.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycling.511.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycling.511.org&lt;/a&gt; is generally a good resource. &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycling.511.org/maps.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bicycling.511.org/maps.htm&lt;/a&gt; in particular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Maps&lt;/a&gt; can give you bicycling directions anywhere, but is probably extra good in SF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a bunch of different cycling clubs in or near SF, but I think many of their organized rides go outside of SF.  (SF is only 7 miles across).  If you just want to ride around on your own, you can probably find out the routes for some of these rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goldengatecyclists.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.goldengatecyclists.org/&lt;/a&gt; (based in SF)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dssf.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dssf.org/&lt;/a&gt; (LGBT and friends)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westernwheelers.org/main/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.westernwheelers.org/main/&lt;/a&gt; (based south of SF)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.actc.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.actc.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.valleyspokesmen.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.valleyspokesmen.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velogirls.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.velogirls.com/&lt;/a&gt; (women)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-12-12T18:21:01.147" LastActivityDate="2010-12-12T18:21:01.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2366" CreationDate="2010-12-12T22:33:06.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been enjoying &lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/routes&quot;&gt;Ride with GPS&lt;/a&gt;, which is fairly new, and a mash-up of googlemaps, gps, and user generated routes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you can do with Ride with GPS is to plot out your own routes and also, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;there are over 150 user generated routes in the San Francisco area&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Also note, you don't need a GPS device to use the site. I've used it to plot out ideas and to discover rides in my area that I hadn't thought of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guys behind &lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/about&quot;&gt;Ride with GPS&lt;/a&gt; are very responsive and constantly improving the site. So, it's worth checking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2010-12-12T22:33:06.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2375" CreationDate="2010-12-13T14:16:05.930" Score="16" ViewCount="32504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading a recent question when I saw this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2350/should-i-oil-my-seat-post/2351#2351&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You should absolutely grease your&#xA;  seatpost (unless it is carbon fiber).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why should I NOT grease a carbon fiber seat post?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T12:48:36.773" Title="Should I grease a carbon fiber seat post?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2369" CreationDate="2010-12-13T14:58:57.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine that there's no point in greasing it.  You're not going to have any issue with it wanting to bond itself to the frame tube due to corrosion or dissimilar metals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T14:58:57.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2369" CreationDate="2010-12-13T15:02:21.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get carbon seat post specific grease, it's designed to reduce the clamping pressure that is needed to hold the seat post in place and prevent it either sticking or slipping.  Pace make some (Pace RC005 Carbon Fibre Seatpost Grease) and I'm sure some other people do as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T15:02:21.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2364" CreationDate="2010-12-13T15:57:44.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want pedals that have sealed bearings and a metal spindle. I would think that a plastic platform would be less painful in the event your shin comes in contact with it but, metal would be more durable. You want the platform to be fairly open so the mud will pass through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastEditorUserId="64" LastEditDate="2010-12-17T13:20:53.667" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T13:20:53.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2354" CreationDate="2010-12-13T17:58:49.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak about HRM's that do not use a chest strap as that's the only type that I have used (other than to play with in the store).  I find the ones with a chest strap to be completely hassle free, and I don't have to contort into a weird position to get a reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had great luck with HRM's from Timex and Nashbar in the $50 range, and like Polar but have never owned one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go with a chest strap type, the primary thing to watch out for in the lower-end range is the ability to change the strap battery.  Some have a sealed chest strap, so you either have to tear it apart and super-glue it back together, or replace the strap entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T01:10:50.700" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T01:10:50.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2355" CreationDate="2010-12-13T21:29:31.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3M reflective tape on my cranks too. These should be pretty visible, and the motion would clearly indicate that I am a bicycle, not a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="894" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T21:29:31.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2369" CreationDate="2010-12-13T23:39:04.233" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the person who made that claim, the reason is that allegedly some greases can attack the epoxies found in some carbon fiber applications, causing a breakdown of the CF structure, and causing expansion which will jam the post in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The epoxy will otherwise not corrode, so it's not necessary for that purpose. The manufacturers also recommend you do not do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a carbon fiber seatpost in a steel frame that I greased a long time ago before I learned about this and it isn't stuck, but I might just be lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, if you use a grease specifically designed for carbon fiber applications it negates all these claims, for they refer to the run of the mill stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T23:39:04.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2377" CreationDate="2010-12-14T04:18:09.473" Score="14" ViewCount="1824" Body="&lt;p&gt;My chain broke and in a moment of silliness (I was cold wet and slightly annoyed)  I threw the broken one away before thinking about measuring the new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a guide to getting the chain length/tension correct ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an 8 speed road bike (Shimano Sora back, double ring front)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T15:54:39.610" Title="Setting chain length" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2376" CreationDate="2010-12-14T15:16:16.443" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put the chain around the big-big gears without threading it through the derailleur. Have the chain overlap by one link. Now with that length thread it through the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T15:16:16.443" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2010-12-14T22:05:49.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the other end of the cost spectrum I've just ordered one of these&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wahoofitness.com/Fisica/Wahoo-Fitness-Fisica-Fitness-Sensor-Case.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wahoofitness.com/Fisica/Wahoo-Fitness-Fisica-Fitness-Sensor-Case.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's trick is to act as an ANT+ sensor, so that your phone can grab HR, speed, cadence and power from sensors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll report back when it's delivered and I've tried it out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK its arrived, and its really rather good. Quite large, but fits on either bars or stem, and either portrait or landscape. Seems very robust and probably waterproof. They promise an add-on battery, but in the meantime you can charge via its mini-usb port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ANT+ works very well, although ironically I haven't found a bike computer app that I like that supports it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastEditorUserId="825" LastEditDate="2011-01-19T12:24:42.347" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T12:24:42.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2010-12-15T04:47:01.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can avoid getting your pants dirty and save rotational weight at the same time by not wearing any pants at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T04:47:01.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-12-15T11:00:09.353" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Um, elephant in the room I'll address the answer to you: because it's trendy. C'mon, you can't tell me that fashion is not a major factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that that's a bad thing, anything that gets people into cycling is a good idea if you ask me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastEditorUserId="896" LastEditDate="2016-11-02T01:00:48.573" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T01:00:48.573" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2538" CreationDate="2010-12-15T11:13:00.670" Score="24" ViewCount="7199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gone through &lt;del&gt;four&lt;/del&gt; five frames in the last decade or so, all from different manufacturers, &lt;del&gt;all steel but both lugged and welded&lt;/del&gt; both steel and aluminium. Every one of them has eventually developed a crack, and the steel ones have been repaired and then re-developed more cracks until I give up and get a new one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's usually on the seat tube down near the bottom bracket, but once on the down tube near the headset, and &lt;del&gt;once&lt;/del&gt; twice on the chainstay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally just use the bike for commuting (~150k / week) and occasional weekend riding - all on the road. I've been on my mountain bike for the last couple of years, but I miss my skinny tyres and I'm thinking of getting a new road bike. So is there anyhing I can do to make it last longer than a couple of years or should I give up and just stick to mountain bikes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this point to there being something wrong with the way I ride?&#xA;Do you think doing track stands at lights would exacerbate the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here's a list of the manufacturers whose frames I've broken: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;City Cycles Sydney (steel, unknown origin, but it was really nice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cecil Walker Melbourne frame (steel, Ken Evans, a well-respected local framebuilder, custom fit for me, again, very nice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;KHS (steel, Korea, kinda cheap and nasty)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kona (aluminium, Taiwan(?))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soma Doublecross (steel, America, from the weight of it I thought it would last, but no). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems I don't buy bikes, I rent them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastEditorUserId="896" LastEditDate="2017-08-04T04:28:03.517" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T09:30:59.423" Title="I keep breaking my road frames - why?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;crack&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2381" CreationDate="2010-12-15T12:10:20.277" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a run of bad luck with road frames quite a few years ago, going through about three in rapid succession.  Like you, the faults were always in different places.  Since then I haven't had any troubles, but I did start using a slightly higher upgrade of frame materials.  I currently ride about 120K a week,mainly commuting, doing track stands wherever possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to perhaps try a slightly better grade of steel frame next time.  I was using low grade steel, then a couple of manganese alloy based frames, before going onto Reynolds (not too sure of the number, early 531 I think) and Columbus No.2 frames.  No problems with them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently ride a composite frame, aluminium main tubes with carbon forks and rear stays.  Going strong since 2005.  I am also not particularly light, being over 85kg at the moment (must train more!)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just have troubles with wheels now :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T12:10:20.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2381" CreationDate="2010-12-15T12:36:03.180" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certainly techniques that will put unusual strains on the bike, track stands could be, I certainly think that excess use of a turbo trainer does. I (try) to do track stands where possible and my commute bike (~150k per week for a number of years) only died when I crashed it ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quality of the ingredients is certainly one factor. Another could be the manufacturer (although you have already mitigated a little for that in your question). Many people, in particular those who come to cycling from other sports, might try to deploy their power in different ways. I used to row and when I was looking at a new bike, I spotted a lovely looking candidate, but the guy in the shop said &quot;I won't sell you that, it's a Bianchi, and I find that all big rowers break Bianchis&quot;, his theory was that lugs like me (I'm only 6' and 200lb but that's big for a racing cyclist) tend to grind out in the bigger gears while the Bianchi tended to favour the lighter rider who'll spin it higher, but in a lower gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the chances are that it probably is something about how you ride, but that doesn't mean changing your style, just finding a bike designed around you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe you should change your style ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T12:36:03.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2354" CreationDate="2010-12-15T14:14:55.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look for a cheap chest-strap HRM I can testify in favor of the Sigma PC15, which I used personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See a review &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/gadgets/heart-rate-monitors/product/pc-15-29604?_brc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for completely wristwatch HRM I never used them directly for the reason freiheit states in his comment and I wouldn't recommend them for cycling use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T14:14:55.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2381" CreationDate="2010-12-16T01:25:35.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke two steel frames in different ways, but both were used for commuting under heavy loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I stretched the rear dropouts of a frame built for a 7 speed hub to fit a 9 speed hub, and this put stress on the chain stays just behind the rear bottom bracket. After about 6 months of daily riding, the right chain stay cracked.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I rode my bike head on and it crimped the downtube just barely enough to notice - I could only tell if I ran my thumbnail over it - and about three years later, the down tube cracked at this spot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is, steel (or any metal) fatigues; but in both of these cases it was helped along by my own abuse - both were learning experiences for me.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T01:25:35.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-16T08:35:32.313" Score="8" ViewCount="2113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've watched the chain derail from the front sprocket, and there is considerable flex that is causing it. I'm a big guy with an athletic build (6'7&quot;/280lbs), and it's a big-box bike, so I'm not expecting a miracle. Are there sprockets made for people my size that won't flex under load, and if so are they reasonably priced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flex that I have seen is actually in the chainring (front sprocket)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="898" LastEditorUserId="898" LastEditDate="2010-12-16T15:48:37.897" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T07:17:32.670" Title="How can I keep my chain from derailing from the front sprocket under load?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-16T12:13:10.953" Score="12" ViewCount="19009" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the third time that I've had a leaking &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presta_valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Presta valve&lt;/a&gt; on the tube. There must be a way of repairing the Presta valve rather than having to discard a good tube. Someone did it by applying glue, but I didn't watch closely enough to see where he put the glue. What can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="899" LastEditorUserId="3639" LastEditDate="2013-08-30T14:51:24.700" LastActivityDate="2018-10-18T11:43:54.753" Title="Repairing Presta valves" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2387" CreationDate="2010-12-16T20:22:50.267" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't like to be the bearer of bad news, but I've been down this road once or twice.  As a hobby, I sometimes pull bike frames out of dumpsters and rebuild them to sell for my cost on Craigslist.  I have learned over the years that bicycles, when new, really cost at least $300-400.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/887#887&quot;&gt;&quot;Bicycle-Shaped Objects&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (BSO's) are sold at stores like Wal-Dart and Cost-Mo for much, much less.  These BSO's are, though, just that.  They are a loss for everyone except the manufacturer and the store.  And I doubt the stores are making much on them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I find a box-store BSO and seek to rebuild it, I will usually remove and discard that whole front assembly--chainrings, cranks, bottom bracket.  They're usually toast anyway.  WHen I get to this point, I am about to put into the bike probably near what it was worth new at Cost-Mo.  The bottom bracket (bearings between the cranks) will probably run $30 (UN54 baby!).  The cranks I can often get decent ones used for $20-30.  Chainrings another $5-20 a piece, depending on what I am trying to build.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these things is really expensive, but it adds up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WHY AM I TELLING YOU all of this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why don't I just say, &quot;get some used quality parts for $5-20?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  Well.  If you're putting that much torque on this thing to bend the chain rings, I wouldn't be surprised if the bottom bracket were screwed up, too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you can get decent used parts at a pretty low price, but I think it is unlikely that your crank-arms will accept replacement chainrings (sprokets).  Usually on box-store bikes, these are riveted-on.  They are disposable. That means replacing the cranks, too.  So.  You're going the whole monte.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So figure, cheapest-possible solution, we're looking at about $100.  What did the bike originally cost?  Maybe $150?  If that's worth it to you, go do it.  It's not all that hard to do yourself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, though, when you find one thing wrong... then you find another... and another... pretty soon you have $250 invested in a bike that's worth about $150.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike is &quot;Your Bike&quot; and you have sentimental attachment to it, I understand (I own that bike and continue pouring parts into it).  Otherwise, I'd say look for a quality used bike.  A mid-90's Specialized Rockhopper will run you about $150 and will come with good quality parts that can be more easily worked on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T07:17:32.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2010-12-16T23:53:29.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Helly Hansen Voss pants. They are great and I can take them off/put them on with my shoes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;q=voss+pants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;q=voss+pants&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Yes, I do sweat but not too bad as my commute is only 30 min. If it's warm and raining I usually wear shorts and put pants in my bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="901" LastEditorUserId="901" LastEditDate="2011-03-14T21:47:54.687" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T21:47:54.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2577" CreationDate="2010-12-17T10:04:37.813" Score="18" ViewCount="746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to listen to my audiobooks while commuting without obstructing my ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One (rather expensive) option appears to be the Tunebug Shake (a Bluetooth turn-your-helmet-into-a-speaker gizmo); however, I'm hesitant to spend $120 on a device made by a company which does all their consumer promos with skater-style helmets and doesn't answer emails asking questions about sound quality with vented helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be a water-bottle speaker (I commute with a Camelbak -- this is Austin, after all -- so either of these mounts are fine). Obvious downside is positioning -- my two water-bottle cages are below and behind my ears -- and several of the commercially available devices are specific to Apple hardware (and the thought of buying an iPod rather than using my existing Android-based phone smarts a little).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions? Experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="903" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-25T01:38:16.257" LastActivityDate="2020-05-30T05:50:08.720" Title="Listening to audio without obstructing ears" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2396" CreationDate="2010-12-17T11:08:54.613" Score="13" ViewCount="5450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Brooks leather saddle and i like it a lot, but i am entirely clueless on how to care for it. I know i am supposed to rub some sort of fat on it, but i have no idea what kind of fat, or how often, or how strong or how much, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you give me pointers on how to keep it nice or if possible link to step-for-step instructions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="904" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2010-12-17T17:41:23.657" LastActivityDate="2010-12-23T08:54:23.700" Title="How do I maintain a Brooks leather saddle?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;leather&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2010-12-17T11:12:38.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you want those more to be able to hear traffic, less because how unobstructed ears look. I use a pair of cheap sony ear plugs. They're the kind of plugs that don't go all the way in the ear, but are only small round bulbs that sit at the front. Thus they still allow me to hear everything around me perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="904" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T11:12:38.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2010-12-17T12:26:59.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could get big socks and try tucking your pants into them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally like these as they're waterproof too: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sealskinz.com/socks&quot;&gt;http://www.sealskinz.com/socks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for your shoes, you can get overshoes to protect them: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cycling_shoe#Overshoes&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cycling_shoe#Overshoes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T12:26:59.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2388" CreationDate="2010-12-17T13:25:45.007" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try rubber cement however, you will probably still have a slow leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You best solution is to prevent the valve from separating from the tube. To do this, I don't put the retaining nut on until after I have fully inflated the tire. Once the tire is inflated, I screw the nut on just tight enough that it won't fall off. You could add some loc-tite but I don't and haven't had a problem. If you over tighten the nut, you are going to cause the valve to separate from the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T13:25:45.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2392" CreationDate="2010-12-17T14:56:03.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brooks makes a product called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/en/Shop_ProductPage.aspx?cat=spareparts+-+maintenance+products&amp;amp;prod=Proofide+40g+Tin&quot;&gt;Proofide&lt;/a&gt; for saddle care.  For normal use, once or twice a year is likely enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use, start with a dry saddle and wipe off any grit or dirt with a dry rag.  Then take a very small dab of Proofide and spread it on the top surface of the saddle.  You want to spread this out into a very fine layer all over the top (finished) side, don't use too much.  Then let it dry -- probably takes 4-12 hours, depending on how much Proofide you used.  Finally, polish the saddle to get rid of any excess Proofide (looks like a white waxy residue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a Brooks maintenance kit that includes a tin of Proofide, a polishing cloth and a tension adjustment wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, try to keep your saddle as dry as possible.  Riding in the rain is ok, but make sure you store your bike somewhere that the leather can dry out naturally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T14:56:03.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2010-12-17T15:37:32.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost any low quality ear plugs (so, unexpensive) will do the job. That is because cheap ones fail to insulate your ears from the external noise sources, and that's precisely what you do want to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you shouldn't set the device's volume to full throttle :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T15:37:32.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-17T20:47:30.203" Score="6" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partner and I were considering purchasing a Burley Travoy (http://www.burley.com/products/cargo-utilities/travoy.cfm).  We thought we might do this because we like to get groceries at Rainbow in San Francisco sometimes, though we live across the Bay in Oakland.  It seemed like the Travoy would be easier to get on an off the train (with a bike) and easier to keep out of the path of other passengers than our Burley Flatbed...  but is this even allowed?  It says NOTHING about trailers in any of the BART literature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyone out there who has tried taking a trailer on BART?  Did you get hasseled?  Are there other transit systems that have a policy on bike trailers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T06:47:00.293" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T06:47:00.293" Title="Is taking a bike TRAILER on SF Bay Area Rapid Transit permitted?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;public-transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2010-12-17T21:11:59.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd try this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bart.gov/siteinfo/contact.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bart.gov/siteinfo/contact.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link provides local phone numbers and email addresses, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just saying. Give the BART office a call. They'll most likely answer your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to add, I did what I'd do in my locale and found this: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bart.gov/guide/bikes/bikeRules.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bart.gov/guide/bikes/bikeRules.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially check the first and second bullet points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike seems to be ok on an uncrowded train. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bart.gov/guide/bikes/bikeRules.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BART rules&lt;/a&gt; = Regardless of any other rule, bikes are never allowed on crowded cars. Use your good judgment and only board cars that can comfortably accommodate you and your bicycle). They're not saying anything about bike+; so guessing, it's probably ok if the car can accomodate your bike and the trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-12-21T17:00:13.227" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T17:00:13.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2409" CreationDate="2010-12-18T00:43:56.513" Score="26" ViewCount="20678" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those of you that happen to cycle through rough neighborhoods and are able to do concealed carry of firearms...  Wondering what you wear to conceal them that works well while cycling.  Obviously the standard cycling outfit isn't going to do any good whatsoever...  Various back/fanny packs seem like they'd be inconvenient.  Most jackets that would work fine while walking would tend to &quot;ride up&quot; I'd think.  Just curious as to what works and what doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-06-13T12:55:45.160" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T14:15:30.707" Title="How to carry a concealed firearm on a bike?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;us&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2010-12-18T09:39:17.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are products like this  one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iworld.co.uk/p/Slipstreamz_Cycling_Earwear_for_Headphones.htm?affiliatecode=gbase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.iworld.co.uk/p/Slipstreamz_Cycling_Earwear_for_Headphones.htm?affiliatecode=gbase&lt;/a&gt; which claim to do what you want, and appears to be relatively cheap. They appear to take your existing ear phones and position them in such a way that you can hear your music, the shields cut out the wind noise but you can still hear your surroundings. Whether they work as advertised is another question, along with whether they'll make you look like a tit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://img.iworld.co.uk/images/products/Slipstreamz%20Cycling%20Earwear%20for%20Headphones_A_P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Weird earphone mounts http://img.iworld.co.uk/images/products/Slipstreamz%20Cycling%20Earwear%20for%20Headphones_A_P.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a previous thread here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/623/is-listening-to-music-dangerous-while-cycling&quot;&gt;Is listening to music dangerous while cycling?&lt;/a&gt; which discusses whether listening to music whilst cycling is safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2010-12-18T09:48:58.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2010-12-19T02:37:06.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reasons I ride fixed-gear most of the time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have to work hard to get what I want. A fixed gear forces constant pedaling, which means no lazy coasting. When I ride, I want to work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simplicity. Repairs are much easier as there are fewer fail points in the drive train.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can feel the road. Next time it's raining out, ride a fixed gear and compare it to a freewheeled bike. On the fixie, you feel your traction at all times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I hate the trend (note that &quot;clean lines&quot; was not in my list), mostly because I hate watching idiots with no brakes drop their chain and crash into pedestrians or traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-04T07:24:11.720" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T07:24:11.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2438" CreationDate="2010-12-19T10:22:41.900" Score="15" ViewCount="1961" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should I look for when buying rollers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sets more expensive models apart from their cheaper alternatives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-12-19T16:04:46.093" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T03:03:54.187" Title="What should I look for when buying rollers?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2408" CreationDate="2010-12-19T10:49:28.387" Score="6" ViewCount="4977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying a new road bike on the new year but I'm unsure which model to go for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any websites that maintain comparisons of currently available models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-10-02T18:09:29.240" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T18:09:29.240" Title="What are good bicycle review and comparison sites?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-10-02T18:09:38.007" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-21T17:52:46.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2406" CreationDate="2010-12-19T15:57:27.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roadbikereview.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.roadbikereview.com&lt;/a&gt; (see also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mtbr.com&lt;/a&gt; for the Mountain bike version) doesn't have actual comparisons, but there are user reviews for a wide variety of models and bike parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T15:57:27.817" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-21T17:52:46.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2406" CreationDate="2010-12-19T19:30:51.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/&lt;/a&gt; which is linked to 4 magazines: Cycling Plus, Mountain Biking UK, Procycling and What Mountain Bike. As a result it carries various bike and gear reviews from the magazines as well as some which are only online (I think). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As all of the magazines are UK based the site obviously has a British bias.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2010-12-19T23:12:20.533" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T23:12:20.533" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-21T17:52:46.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2401" CreationDate="2010-12-20T00:27:20.283" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like stuff made for joggers could work for cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.activeprogear.com/jogger_holster.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.activeprogear.com/jogger_holster.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a small triangle frame bag work?  The kind I'm thinking of seem about the right size to hold a small-to-medium pistol, and fit on the rear end of the top tube.  Some sit on top, secured by the seat post, some hang under, secured by the seat tube.  Lots of options...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/images?q=triangle+frame+bag&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.google.com/images?q=triangle+frame+bag&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or a frame bag designed to attach to the front of the top tube.  Or a handlebar bag...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T15:32:32.300" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T15:32:32.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-20T05:05:14.363" Score="15" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motivation:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm a casual cyclist (I ride around 4 miles per day, to school and work and back) but I wanted to get into unicycling to casually cycle through parks and the like; nothing too extreme, but just to be able to take it on a bus and cycle around the town.  I was unsure of what to look for in a beginner's unicycle, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Main Question:&lt;/strong&gt; What types of things should a beginner unicyclist look for in their first unicycle?  Is it worthless to buy a unicycle labeled as a &quot;beginner's unicycle&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I browsed the other unicycle thread, but it didn't explicitly apply to people just starting to unicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="911" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-12-20T06:02:10.667" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T03:49:07.490" Title="What to look for in a Beginner Unicycle" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;unicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2401" CreationDate="2010-12-20T16:02:38.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off you'll have to wear mostly regular clothes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using an inside-the-waistband holster will suit you well. You can tuck a shirt in over the holster, then if you wear a jacket over that, it will be completely hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.comp-tac.com/product_info.php?products_id=95&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an MTAC holster&lt;/a&gt;, and I sometimes carry when I am buying or selling stuff from craigslist. I've never had issues where it became visible that I was carrying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T16:02:38.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2401" CreationDate="2010-12-20T16:39:28.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_167563_-1_201497_10000_200352&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bike Nashbar frame pack&lt;/a&gt; that would definitely fit a compact frame handgun:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6BKxY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T16:39:28.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2417" CreationDate="2010-12-20T16:42:03.860" Score="17" ViewCount="15021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on setting up my bicycle with one of those devices that holds the rear tire and gives some resistance so I can exercise through the winter.  I think it's called a bicycle trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using one of those for weight loss: Is it better to ride for a long time on low resistance or at a low speed?  Or is it better to ride harder, spinning your legs faster or with more resistance for a shorter amount of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry; there isn't even an exercise tag on here.  Feel free to retag as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="913" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-22T21:09:26.747" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T08:32:02.583" Title="What's the most efficient riding style for losing weight?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2401" CreationDate="2010-12-20T16:56:38.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one like the Nashbar frame pack, different brand but substantively the same thing. Sucks that my Kahr PM-9, small though it is, adds pounds to my ultra-light bike, but in certain areas, I'd much rather not leave my firearm at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Matthew Chase" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T16:56:38.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2414" CreationDate="2010-12-20T17:21:57.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The equipment you are talking about is called a turbo trainer. In terms of weight loss I'm not sure which is best, spinning (pedalling quickly against low resistance) is good for cardiovascular stuff, whereas grinding along in a high gear or against a higher resistance is going to improve your strength and build muscle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut feeling (if you'll excuse the slight pun) is that spinning will help you drop weight, but that's just intuition not knowledge talking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T17:21:57.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2414" CreationDate="2010-12-20T17:37:43.163" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question is dependent on a number of factors, but the short answer is just 'yes'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are purely looking for weight loss then the equation is calores in minus calories out equals delta, and so long as the delta is negative, i.e. that you burn more than you consume, then you &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; lose weight. It's just simple arithmetic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in the first place, just eat the same as you have ever done and do more exercise, then the weight &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; come off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do more training, though, will also require a balanced diet. If you up your training load without changing your diet, you will get more tired and notice other negative effects. You'll be hungrier, you'll eat more, it's not as easy as just upping the workload.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're actually asking is about making this weight loss more efficient, maybe even drastic, and getting the bang for your buck. So if you sprint, on a higher resistance, with higher cadence, then your heart rate will be higher and you'll burn more - but you'll be able to maintain it for less time. But if you try for a low cadence, with low stress, you'll maintain for a lot longer, but you'll burn less quickly. You'll lose weight either way, but you'll also do it differently and prepare your body differently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this properly, you'll probably want to work just below the anaerobic threshold, this is the point at which the body is still able to consume enough oxygen to assist the work through using sustainable sources within the body (i.e. fat stores), but without all that pesky lactic acid being produced (and burning other sources, e.g. muscle). This is the point where many endurance athletes will try and aim their training (also known as LSD - Long, Slow, Distance), to sit for extended periods at a heart rate set at a maintainable point. You'll need a heart rate monitor and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/998/how-do-you-calculate-aerobic-and-anaerobic-heart-rates&quot;&gt;a means to test yourself&lt;/a&gt;. For a reasonably trained athlete, this will likely be around 150 bpm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, my rule of thumb is that I'll burn about 40 calories per mile almost irrespective of speed ... but if you &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; want to lose weight, go running. I reckon I burn about 120 calories a mile when running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T17:37:43.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2414" CreationDate="2010-12-20T17:57:07.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'best' way is by measuring your bodies response to whatever you are doing. The best method by todays understanding is while using a heart-rate monitor. As Unsliced mentioned, riding just below the anaerobic threshold. You achieve that by monitoring your heart rate as you exercise, and holding it in that zone as long as possible. That allows you to continuously work very hard, but not so hard that you deplete your bodies ability to deliver oxygen and get tired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T17:57:07.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:27:18.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that BART is very intentionally NOT making a policy on the matter.  They wouldn't be able to make one that allows trailers, but as long as they haven't been forced to speak on the matter, it becomes an issue at the station agent's discretion.  Yes, that makes it difficult to &lt;em&gt;plan&lt;/em&gt; around what you know is allowed, but I think it's still better than a flat out &quot;no you cannot do this&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T19:27:18.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:53:49.020" Score="5" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a suspension fork, which has a stripped lower post mount, i.e. the bolt used to attach the brake caliper doesn't grip the post. Before anyone asks - yes, it is the correct size bolt, as the upper post is fine. Would it be possible to use something like a heli-coil insert to repair the thread or would you consider this unsafe ? FYI I am running a 160mm disc up front, and only do XC/Trail riding - so nothing too mental :-)..Thanks for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="918" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T19:29:00.963" Title="One stripped post mount on suspension fork" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2420" CreationDate="2010-12-21T19:29:00.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider tapping this thread back out if you have a decent tap-and-die set.  Otherwise, a heli-coil should work for this application.  I would be more concerned with a heli-coil if you were using it on a post-bolt that would experience tensile stress--that is, &quot;pull-out&quot; force.  This bolt will be under mostly shear-stress, which means that the majority of the strength will be derived from the body of the post rather than from the threads.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not an engineer--engineers, please correct me--but this is what my thinking is when I fix a broken piece of metal in a situation like yours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a little paranoid, you might goop the bolt threads with some JB Weld before threading them into the heli-coil.  This will add a little tensile strength and piece of mind, but should be pretty easy to break out with a breaker-bar if and when you choose to remove the part.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that, in my experience, any use of a heli-coil or JB weld has the potential to be an &quot;ultimate&quot; fix.  That is, once it's &lt;em&gt;fixed&lt;/em&gt;... it's &lt;em&gt;fixed&lt;/em&gt; for all practical purposes and subject to failure if &quot;fixed&quot; again in the same place.  I might do this to my 90's Rockhopper, but I don't suggest it for your 2011 Santa Cruz Blur that you plan to change everything out on next season.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Short answer:&lt;/em&gt;  With the sort of riding you are suggesting, I would do the fix you are suggesting on my beater mountain bike.  On my high-end down-hill ride... I would take it to a frame builder and have the post replaced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T19:29:00.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2010-12-22T00:26:30.600" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.monkeylectric.com/m132s_gallery.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monkeylectric&lt;/a&gt; spoke lights for two years now. They're very bright persistence-of-vision spoke lights that blit out patterns in a beautiful range of colors. Love em. Unlike Ladyada's kit, these work out of the box, though you can reprogram them if you so wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.monkeylectric.com/products/m132s_gal/m132s_live14.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.510" LastActivityDate="2010-12-22T00:26:30.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2433" CreationDate="2010-12-22T12:54:06.880" Score="5" ViewCount="4234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting some tri-bars for Christmas and I've been told by the bike shop how to set them up on the bike, but I'd like to get some tips from lots of different people. Up-close photos would be great. I've got the straight type of bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I should have specified a few more details. I'm particularly looking for details on arm rest positions (placement infront or behind of the handlebars and distance between each rest).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T06:09:30.533" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T05:07:50.843" Title="How have you setup your tri-bars?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;bike-setup&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2364" CreationDate="2010-12-22T14:22:55.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend WTB Momentum Grease Guard Pedals, or other pedals with a grease gun port. The only way to keep pedals (or any bearings for that matter) working in inclement weather is to keep them well lubricated, and it doesn't get easier than using a grease gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2010-12-22T14:22:55.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2381" CreationDate="2010-12-22T14:29:08.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an avid cyclist and every day NYC bike commuter, I had a similar problem with road frames. Aluminum frames would last about 9-12 months and steel TIG welded frames generally lasted about 18-24 months before cracking at the bottom bracket (full disclosure, I'm 6'1&quot; and 210 with all my gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, there is a solution, with the advent of twenty-niner mountain bikes you can now get a good rugged frame (Surly Karate Monkey is my favorite) and build it up with road tires (I'm partial to Continental Ultra Gatorskins in the 25cc variety) with nice rugged mountain bike wheels (I'm using XT hubs with 700c Mavic rims).  Sure your frame will weigh about 2 pounds more than a road steel frame, but it won't break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2010-12-22T14:29:08.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1990" CreationDate="2010-12-22T17:57:18.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got the Carradice Camper Longflap with the quick release rack recommended on the website. I got a leather strap off an old leather bag which clips easily onto the leather hooks which are placed on either side of the Carradice bag. I don't know if that's what they're meant for but it works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="JacobLambert" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:24:44.877" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:24:44.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2010-12-22T22:55:01.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also contacted BART via the customer service email listed on the BART website and received this answer while out for the holidays:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dave,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bike trailers are permitted on BART, with the same basic restrictions as bicycles (no bikes in the first car, or on trains passing through downtown San Francisco, Oakland or Berkeley during rush hours).  The only additonal restriction would simply be extra awareness, as you will be using more space then a regular bike, and to avoid crowded trains, even if it is not during the restricted hours.  Thanks for choosing BART.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Operator #6&#xA;  BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit)&#xA;  Transit Information Center&#xA;  Tel. 510-465-2278 (live operators)&#xA;  6AM to 11PM - 7/Days&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called BART and the person I spoke with was very nice and quite informative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, first thing is that you need to follow the standard BART bicycle rules. Basically, there are a number of bicycle restrictions regarding peak commuting hours. You're pretty much committed to following those rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the rep I spoke with, during &quot;non-peak&quot; hours, you may or may not be allowed to use a trailer. The station masters will look at the length of your set-up. So, during low demand periods, you're probably ok if your trailer and bike are detached and compact as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the message I got is this. You will not be able to commute during peak hours with a trailer. You're probably ok with some trailers during non-peak times; except at times when a big event is occurring in the city. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest that you pick an off-peak time when it's not terribly inconvenient and try out your bike trailer set-up. Also, according to the BART rep, if you're organized about things and your trailer is basically a large piece of luggage, you're probably good to go during the off-peak hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2010-12-30T01:52:18.407" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T01:52:18.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25943" CreationDate="2010-12-24T11:05:24.707" Score="16" ViewCount="1269" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the winter, as soon as its gets a little bit below 0°C, after 10-15 minutes the body of my rear hub gets frozen. This means the pedals/chain do not have any grip anymore on the rear wheel, the pleasure is over, and the walking begins. Peeing over the cassette helps for another 15 minutes, seriously, but I only carry limited amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use my bike in summer and winter. And try to keep it clean with water and soap (no high-pressure). But it is stored in my garage, where temperature is just above freezing point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips from preventing it to freeze? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="444" LastEditDate="2010-12-24T20:06:35.843" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T21:47:39.570" Title="How to prevent my hub body from freezing?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;frozen&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2431" CreationDate="2010-12-24T16:52:35.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ice wax definitely helps. I switched to a bottle of Pedro's Ice Wax 2.0 this winter, and haven't had a freeze-up yet. I hadn't tried peeing on the cassette. My ride may be a little too public for that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2010-12-24T16:52:35.187" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2423" CreationDate="2010-12-25T00:47:57.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question depends on the rider physiology, goals, and objectives. There are a number of considerations, and the focus should be on your overall position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are primarily a time-trialer, or if you are interested in triathlons, you would have different needs than a road racer who does a handful of time trials a year. Triathletes tend to be even further forward than road racers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall position:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I used the same bike for racing and time trialing, I would raise the seat, push the seat forward, and lower the stem when I added the time trial bars. Being comfortable and having the ability to take a breathe easily and fully is much more important than aerodynamics per se. Also, note that the pros spend a lot of time preparing for this. In general, imagine a time-trial position as the body being rotated forward at the hip about 15 degrees, so that the hip gets closer to the bottom bracket. Also notice that much of time trialing is done on the nose of the saddle (not sure exactly why). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/images?um=1&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;biw=1066&amp;amp;bih=779&amp;amp;tbs=isch:1&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;q=time+trial+position&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;aqi=g1&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;oq=&amp;amp;gs_rfai=&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;look at the pros&lt;/a&gt;, you will see some general trends in position. The arm rests are many cm below the seat, the forearms are relatively horizontal, and some prefer to have their hands a little bit more elevated, some at a negative incline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seat fore-aft position&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, the seat is forward and the rider is on the nose of the saddle. The distribution of weight between the seat and handlebars goes much more in favor of the handlebars than when riding in a standard position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saddle-handlebar drop&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An important aspect of the position is the difference in height between the saddle and the elbow pads. The lower you can get the more aerodynamic you will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Arm angle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, notice that the upper arm may be perpendicular to the ground, like Fabian Cancellara here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJdZw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or like Kristin Armstrong with the elbows further out in front of the shoulder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUwAd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Location of arm pads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The position of the arm rests have moved back toward the elbow over time. Greg Lemond's position had the arm rests closer to the wrists than is common now. This position is useful in a hilly time trial because of the leverage that it gives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDns9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2010-12-25T00:47:57.237" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-25T00:47:57.237" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2436" CreationDate="2010-12-25T21:29:30.327" Score="17" ViewCount="8693" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/689/how-do-i-gear-up-a-bike-for-winter-riding#answer-694&quot;&gt;This response to another question&lt;/a&gt; provides a wealth of info on winter riding preparation, but doesn't mention any techniques for preventing cables, especially brake cables, from freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular type of lubricant that is especially effective in preventing frozen cables?  Would WD-40 or the like be appropriate?  What other techniques are useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T15:47:54.040" Title="Preventing frozen brake cables" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;frozen&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2431" CreationDate="2010-12-25T21:32:32.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to stop it freezing, but if I whack the right chain stay hard with my heel it is normally enough to get the pawls to engage and get me going again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-12-26T05:13:35.253" LastActivityDate="2010-12-26T05:13:35.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2434" CreationDate="2010-12-26T04:22:45.323" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frozen cables happen because you've got moisture in the cable and housings. This can happen fairly often if you bring your bike inside after they've been wet and then have it back out long enough for that moisture to freeze. Two things can help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, make sure your housing covers as much of the cables as possible. Second, use a cable lubricant, which will help keep moisture out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WD-40 should not be used on brake systems, and should only really be used on your bike as a temporary lubricant (to remove seized parts, for example). It's primarily a solvent and a de-greaser. You actually want grease on your cables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I was having trouble adding a comment below to answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001C69GO2&quot;&gt;TriFlow&lt;/a&gt;, which is a light synthetic. You'll only need a few drops at a time, so don't worry about buying in bulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other lubricant you could try, and I've seen some people in bike shops do this, is a waterproof grease, the same stuff people use on their bearings and threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, I look for light oils for my cables, as others tend to gum up in the housing, but they should be good in a pinch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastEditorUserId="907" LastEditDate="2010-12-27T04:45:33.717" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T04:45:33.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-26T16:35:14.593" Score="6" ViewCount="3333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please excuse my terminology, I have a Specialized Tricross (2008) with Shimano Tiagra STI levers, and convenience brakes on the top of the bars, running through the same cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, adjusting brakes is easy enough, but I have a very sharp pull on the &lt;code&gt;top brakes&lt;/code&gt; (flat bars, if I can call them that) - and my STIs pull almost all the way to the stop before even engaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be a case of badly adjusted brakes? I asked my Bike shop to service the bike (minor service) - and it came back more or less like this, it's not dangerous, at all - but I like a very short pull on my brakes after a nasty TFCC injury that still isn't recovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the manuals for the STI levers (I expected some kind of internal setting I could crank on these, and have them take up the slack from the &lt;code&gt;top-brakes&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst we're at it, what's the proper name for these inline top-brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="388" LastActivityDate="2010-12-31T16:36:20.207" Title="Adjusting the pull/reach of STI levers with top-brakes (Tricross)" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2405" CreationDate="2010-12-27T02:55:00.703" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What should you look for in a set of rollers?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resistance if you want it (Kreitler has a nice belt driven 'killer headwind')&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noise level, especially if you live above someone (I am not sure that even Kreitler can solve this problem without some dampening).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size and weight - if you will be transporting them to races and have limited space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Susceptibility to corrosion. Unless you don't plan to drip sweat, or plan to wipe them off well after each ride.... get rollers with a good corrosion proof coating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure to read these two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1663/should-i-buy-a-pvc-or-aluminum-roller&quot;&gt;Should I buy a pvc or aluminum roller?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2241/what-are-the-advantages-and-disadvantages-of-turbo-trainers-and-rollers&quot;&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages of turbo-trainers and rollers?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What sets the more expensive models apart?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kreitler.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kreitler rollers&lt;/a&gt; are well known as the gold standard in rollers, and they cost two to three times as much as the more economical brands. Are they worth the investment? If you have the money, yes. Not only are they nicer, but they will last longer than other rollers. There are a few small shops that make rollers of similar quality at a similar or higher price. Kreitler makes a wide range of roller styles, and they are all of similar high quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of my roller time has been on a set of Cycle-Ops that I bought second hand for $50, and they were worth more than that. These are a great product, and I have logged about 90% of my hundreds of roller-hours on this set of rollers. They certainly can do the trick, but riding on Kreitler rollers is always a distinct pleasure. Kreitler rollers are luxurious to ride on and are definitely worth their cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Some specific differences:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kreitler rollers are lathe turned alloy drums &amp;quot;to within 0.002&amp;quot; tolerance&amp;quot;. This makes them evenly balanced and roll smoothly and evenly. I have not compared the weights of drums from different manufacturers, but Kreitler drums certainly feel like they have more inertia. Cheap rollers are often made of plastic. Even though &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B003RZAKUU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CycleOps&lt;/a&gt; also uses lathe-turned alloy, they are not as smooth  (I would expect that the design has improved since my set was made 10 years ago). Kreitler drums are solid, including where the bands sit, whereas other alloy drums have plastic disks on the ends for the bands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame on Kreitler rollers is sturdy and keeps the rollers parallel, which helps make the ride smooth. Of course all rollers have three parallel drums, but the sturdy construction of Kreitlers keeps the drums aligned during hard riding and over time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High quality bearings and other parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the above gives a butter-smooth, quiet, luxurious ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T03:03:54.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2010-12-27T21:05:42.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are an adult, I would say that you will be more comfortable using a 24 or 26&quot; wheel versus the 20&quot; wheel which is mainly for trick riding.  Especially if you want to commute a bit the larger wheel will come in handy. Once you are comfortable on a 24 or 26&quot; wheel, you may want to graduate to a Coker or big wheel cycle for getting around fast (I can average 12 to 13 mph for over 20 miles) Go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unicycle.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;unicycle.com&lt;/a&gt; and look under commuters and you will find some really nice cycles.  I used to ride a 42&quot; Tom Miller big wheel from The Unicycle Factory and switched about 10 years ago to a 36&quot; pneumatic tire Coker.  I have made many modifications over they years so that now the only Coker item left is the tire but it's a great cycle.  I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="932" LastEditorUserId="2066" LastEditDate="2011-12-28T18:19:30.710" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T18:19:30.710" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2010-12-27T21:09:43.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I simply stream Pandora on my Blackberry and then put it on speaker-phone with the volume all the way up and the phone tucked inside a runner's waist pouch (similar to a fanny pack but very small and made of lycra and meant to hold a few bucks and a credit card.  Available at most running shoe stores) strung around my neck.  Very safe and the audio isn't bad at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="932" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T21:09:43.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2010-12-27T21:15:37.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually call these devices, tire irons, but I have also heard them called tire levers.  Don't use a screwdriver!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="932" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T21:15:37.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2010-12-28T14:38:59.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the regular Blackberry ear phones with mike.  They are $2 on Amazon these days, and they leak noise around them very well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, of course the issue is not entirely related to hearing the things around you, as well as paying attention to the things around you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer to listen to talk radio (I Heart Radio or Pandora) or podcats while riding.  Or even talk on the phone.  But it does distract somewhat while riding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2010-12-28T14:38:59.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2355" CreationDate="2010-12-28T21:28:32.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading the journal article @Unsliced linked I think the answer is undoubtedly yes.  Also interestingly, it's good to learn that the benefit of fluorescent, non-reflective material is apparently little more than wearing all black once the sun sets.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll add my 2c:  IMO the best luminescence-for-the-buck is the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=ansi+class+2+vest&amp;amp;x=0&amp;amp;y=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ansi class 2 vest&lt;/a&gt;&quot; - i.e. construction worker vest. They cost $10, are super bright in light and wrap around the the body.  Curiously, wearing one often elicits 'extra' space from pedestrians and cars.  Maybe because it looks &quot;official&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastActivityDate="2010-12-28T21:28:32.290" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-29T01:58:11.693" Score="3" ViewCount="2960" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not unlike other brands, I've heard that older Panaracer Pasela tires ran slim when compared to their advertised width, probably &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#dishonest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a marketing ploy to get the weight down for its size&lt;/a&gt; - but I've also heard and read (on the internets..) that recent production has changed such that the widths are wider, more true to spec. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cool thing about the Paselas is that they come in so many sizes.  That's also the bad thing - none of the local bike shops carry them.  I'm trying to determine the widest tire I can fit in my bike.  Anyone out there with Paselas on your bike, can you report the width of the tire at its widest point, along with the spec'd width?  Even better would be someone with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velofred.com/product_info_p.php?products_id=519&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pasela TG 700c x 28&lt;/a&gt; - the size I'm aiming for - that would more than awesome.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastActivityDate="2019-08-09T12:46:13.430" Title="What is the actual width of a Panaracer Pasela tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-29T04:56:17.743" Score="91" ViewCount="91853" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I know form sometimes follows function - and things can be even more funnily irrational when fashion and trends come into play - but what's the lure of the cyclist's messenger bag?  I see them everywhere, and can't help but imagine them to be a big pain in the lopsided way they hang on a single shoulder, not to mention the strap-over-the-head maneauver required to take one off, becoming even more awkward in tight quarters like say a small cafe.  But there they are, ever popular.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People who enjoy using them tend to be quite passionate about them - and I doubt it's limited to just the style of the bag. Having little experience riding with backpacks or messenger bags, I ask, why do you choose to ride with one over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2010-12-29T07:10:38.803" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T20:59:31.780" Title="Why do cyclists prefer messenger bags over backpacks?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;bags&gt;&lt;messenger-bags&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2010-12-29T09:12:22.827" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary reason why bike messengers use messenger bags is that you don't have to take them off to load or unload them. If you're continually picking things up and dropping things off all day, you don't want to be faffing about taking a backpack on and off all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A secondary reason is that the flat rectangular shape of a messenger bag is more suited to the kind of things that messengers tend to be carrying (e.g. documents).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why the rest of us non-bike messenger types use them, there's no question that fashion is a large part. We all want to pretend we're one of those messenger free spirit types, rather than stuck in an office all day ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as well as being perceived as more cool, messenger bags are good for carrying laptops due to their flat rectangular shape. Backpacks that are designed for cycling don't tend to be as suitable for full size laptops - for example, my Deuter rucsac is fantastic for mountain biking, but my 13&quot; laptop is quite a squeeze to fit in. (Of course there are cycling backpacks designed to take laptops, but they're not widely used from what I've seen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I'm lucky in that most days in the city I'm riding a Brompton folding bike, and I use a messenger bag that clips to the frame when I'm riding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0lzZk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's perfect for a laptop, and as well as getting the weight off my back it also carries it low on the bike at the front, which doesn't mess up the handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On those days when I don't have the Brompton, I'm doing a bike / train / bike journey and as the bike legs are short - and during the day I may well have to go to a client on public transport - I use a different messenger style bag. But I definately wouldn't want to use a messenger bag for a long journey, my preference would be to have the luggage on the bike, or to use a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As an aside to the point about messenger style bags being easy to load and unload, interestingly a lot of photographers - who are also taking things in and out of the bag all day - are moving to sling bags, which can easily be swung around for access and don't have to be taken on and off for access. It's not something you think about until you're using a bag, but being able to access it without needing to take it off is important if you're in and out of it all day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T09:12:22.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2010-12-29T19:49:45.037" Score="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent the last two years as a backcountry ranger, in Northern California.  There, I wore a backpack almost every day.  Now I am a bicycle commuter in Sacramento and I choose panniers first, a messenger bag second, and the backpack a distant third.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three reasons why the backpack is my last choice in this list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any bag I carry ends up being full.  I don't know how that works, but my bag is always full of something.  A full backpack rides higher on my back than a messenger bag.  This raises my center of gravity and throws me off balance more easily.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter how gently I ride or what the temperature is, by the time I get to work I am soaked with sweat.  With a backpack, I sweat even more because there is less airflow between my back and the bag.  The messenger bag, which rides lower, covers less of my back and I sweat a little less.  Or maybe I just dry out quicker.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Backpacks with hipbelts and sternum straps are designed to move weight off of one's shoulders and onto the hips and torso.  This works great if you are in an upright, walking position.  When I'm in the drops on my roadbike, a hipbelt is nothing more than a hinderance and a backpack-sternum-strap, though more useful, sometimes tends to choke me.  Weight is again transferred to my shoulders and back, which causes me some degree of pain after a while.  Messenger bags--at least those that are well designed--have a strap which rides diagonnally across the sternum and which functions better in the riding position to transfer weight to the torso.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Panniers are my first choice, though, because they better solve all of these problems.  They are completely off of my back and pretty low on the bike.  For longer rides and for my daily commute, I generally use panniers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all of my bikes have a rack, though.  I have ridden my bike from Sacramento-to-the Bay Area wearing a messenger bag.  I wouldn't have tried it with a backpack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T19:49:45.037" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-30T05:16:46.940" Score="50" ViewCount="159679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike tire that has stamped on the side something like: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;lt;----------front   rear-------------&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which seems like a pretty clear indication that the tire should be oriented in one direction when used in the front, and the opposite when used in the rear.  Is that right?  This is counter intuitive to me - I would have expected tire tread to face the same direction on both wheels - like cars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, is this true in all cases?  For example, road bike tires with tread to handle rain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally...why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T07:49:52.627" Title="Which way do I orient my bike tire's tread direction? and why?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2449" CreationDate="2010-12-30T06:55:29.673" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tires have more traction in some directions than in others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your front wheel does most of the braking; your rear wheel does all of the propulsion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires are oriented to give the most traction to the primary fore-and-aft forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T06:55:29.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2449" CreationDate="2010-12-30T07:04:08.440" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &amp;lt;  &gt; layout is the most common. As Jay Bazuzi pointed out, the forces on the tires aren't from the same directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tires it doesn't matter, some it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, road bike tires typically have essentially zero tread, and it doesn't matter which way they are mounted. They'll almost always have a &quot;rotation -&gt;&quot; printed on them though, but thats really just so people don't get confused, especially mechanics that are so used to looking for those when mounting tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, bike tires don't need tread to handle rain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T07:04:08.440" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2437" CreationDate="2010-12-30T07:11:48.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inline brakes are called interrupter brakes, or cross brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It almost sounds like the pull of your inline cross breaks is meant for V-brakes, while your STI's are set for cantilever. From the details you provided, its hard to say what is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your brakes are set really loose, then both levers would bottom out before engaging, or would be rubbing the rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they worked before, the shop did some work, and now they don't, well then its pretty obvious you need to return to the shop and have them fix it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T07:11:48.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2010-12-30T20:57:25.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I travel everyday across town, I like to hear the traffic when its busy and I like my music to sound good on quieter stretches of road, all the in ear bud things just sounded rubbish. I am now really happy using some igrado on ear head phones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;like these &lt;a href=&quot;http://whathifi.com/Review/Grado-iGrado/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://whathifi.com/Review/Grado-iGrado/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are completely open so about as antisocial as you can get on public transport, they bleed sound its untrue, however its perfect on the bike since you can hear everything around you and the music sounds great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took some getting use to though, the band goes round the back and clamp the ears quite tightly. The cord is also one that hangs down infront instead of around the back of the neck which does cause some tangles sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the robustness, the build quality is great, but as they are open, they are quite exposed to the elements, so far so good but I have only been using them through the winter, snow, sleet but no driving rain.... well see how it goes next year, may also be a bit sweety in summer though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="940" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T20:57:25.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2449" CreationDate="2010-12-30T21:18:39.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My road tires with a light tread have the sense of direction indicated much like a car tire, so that water gets channeled outwards from the center to the outside. I guess theoretically mounting your tires the wrong way round may slow you down? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concerning if tread has any effect on bicycle handling, when it is cold and there is loads of crap on the road (slushy snow) it certainly does make a difference as I found out when I swapped my old tires for new ones (same make/model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="940" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T21:18:39.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2010-12-31T06:40:59.610" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a combination of a &lt;em&gt;Respro Techno Anti-Pollution Mask&lt;/em&gt; and some Decathlon clear glasses like the ones Narcis Calvet suggests. I found that in the winter breathing out through the mask caused breath to leak out of the top of the mask and condense on the glasses, which was most annoying when standing still at the traffic lights.The pollution mask I found quite unpleasantly restrictive for breathing, and hot in summer sweaty too. I ended up using the mask on the most polluted part of my journey and then taking it off for the rest of the journey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I honestly could not tell if the mask made much difference to my health, it definitely was dirty when the filters were changed so it did catch some of the particles. I think drivers did respect me more when I looked more like Hannibal Lecter, I was elevated from Scum Cyclist to Scary Scum cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must say the glasses did make a difference, I eyes were less prickly when I came home at the end of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="940" LastActivityDate="2010-12-31T06:40:59.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2437" CreationDate="2010-12-31T16:36:20.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Looks like this is a road bike with cantilever brakes?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with interrupter brake levers is that there isn't a way to adjust them independently of the main brake levers.  Normally to make your brakes more sensitive you would shorten the brake cable, but this will affect both levers -- so if your interrupters are snappy already, they'll become even more so to fix the STIs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to look at switching to interrupters with less &quot;pull&quot; -- it sounds like the ones you have pull more cable than your STI levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider your riding style and dial in the brakes that you use most often.  If you're mostly on the flats then it's fine as-is.  If you ride mostly in the drops or on the hoods, tighten up the brake cable until the STI lever feels right and go easy when using the interrupter.  That's the position you'd most likely be in when going fast anyway and you'll want the extra braking power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2010-12-31T16:36:20.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-12-31T17:00:06.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/us/bug-cummuting-bag.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkel Bug&lt;/a&gt; and an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/us/all-categories/laptop-bicycle-pannier/briefcase-commuter-bike-bag.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkel Briefcase&lt;/a&gt;, and I think that they are great. Both have straps that can be used over the shoulders, in fact, a shoulder bag can be added to any pannier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the Bug for my clothes, lunch, and tools, and the briefcase for my laptop and other work related items. They are convenient to use easy to carry around, and Arkel makes high quality panniers. They are pricey, but worth it. The way that the laptop holder in the briefcase is built provides shock absorption. It is worth noting that the backpack functionality of the bug is inferior to that of a regular backpack, there is always a metal bar on your back. Arkel has one of the best &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/us/useful-03-attachment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;attachment systems&lt;/a&gt;, it keeps the bags secure even without the bungee cord. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jandd also makes great panniers and some of the best racks, but I found that their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FCBP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;briefcase&lt;/a&gt; was poorly made when I tried it out in 2006 (same year I purchased the Arkel bags above). They have changed the material and possibly the quality since then, so it might be worth checking out. Another drawback is that it hangs sideways rather than 'right side up'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2010-12-31T17:00:06.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2011-01-01T16:53:17.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One more for the list - &quot;prehydrate&quot; - that is, start drinking water some time before your ride. Starting out dehydrated is painful and totally unnecessary!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastActivityDate="2011-01-01T16:53:17.877" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-01T16:53:17.877" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2465" CreationDate="2011-01-02T06:32:36.923" Score="9" ViewCount="14517" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some years ago, I picked up a Cannondale R3000 and moved all the components to my current bike as an exercise in bike building, never repeated (in fairness, the Cannondale fit me a little better but my beautiful 1998 Klein has such a sweet, sweet paint job...). I've been putting the frame on Craigslist off and on for a few years, but no one seems to want to pay what I'm asking. Regardless, my current MTB is an all-mountain beast that I bought before I knew my riding style, and I'm thinking of picking up a more cross-country steed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Times being tight and all, is there anything preventing me from building out the Cannondale road frame as a mountain bike? Obvious [potential] answers (e.g., tire clearance) are good, more involved ones (e.g., frame robustness) are too. I'm trying to get a picture of what might lie ahead in this venture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="840" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-01-02T06:51:48.217" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T18:17:56.223" Title="Can I convert a road frame to a mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2463" CreationDate="2011-01-02T14:41:46.517" Score="3" ViewCount="45406" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for some advice on my first road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had my eye on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_810675_langId_-1_categoryId_165710&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carerra Virtuoso&lt;/a&gt; for about 6 months now, they haven't budged from £350, however I've just spotted &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;amp;item=190483168129&amp;amp;ssPageName=STRK%3aMEWAX%3aIT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one on ebay&lt;/a&gt; second hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of my local stores have this bike in stock, otherwise I'd go sit on it to size it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being 5'11&quot; (about 180cm) and 194 lbs, would I be too big/small for this bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_518229_langId_-1_categoryId_165499&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;22&quot; Carerra Kraken&lt;/a&gt; and that feels about right size wise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, bearing in mind they are £350 new from halfords (and I have £50 halfords vouchers..), how much would be a reasonable bid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T00:01:44.137" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:07:27.393" Title="Is a 51cm frame road bike the correct size for someone almost 6ft?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2460" CreationDate="2011-01-02T16:04:02.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it would be too small. 22 inches is 56cm so I think a 51cm. frame would be too small for you. I'm 183cm and use a 56cm. road frame, that's approximately what you should be looking for. You could enlarge the bike using longer seatpost and stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mountain bike I use a 18 inches frame which fits me correctly too. If I'm not wrong road and mountain bike frame sizes are calculated differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:07:27.393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:07:27.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2460" CreationDate="2011-01-02T17:40:30.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone nearing 6' should be on a 54-57cm frame, depending on reach, inseam and geometry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T17:40:30.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2460" CreationDate="2011-01-02T17:52:14.053" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Large bottom bracket to top tube = 51cm which is equivalent to our standard 58cm frame&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;51cm sounds too small for you; 58cm might be ok or it could be too big.  But there is no substitute for actually trying out the bike, or at least something similar to it.  Your leg, arm and torso lengths all have an effect on how well any bike will fit you and it's based on more than just the seat tube length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that a bike that's comfortable and fits you well will be more fun to ride.  Good fit is more important than weight or colour -- or even price -- so choose wisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T17:52:14.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2460" CreationDate="2011-01-03T08:47:41.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Pubic Bone Height&quot;, basically your standover height, is the main measurement to consider when sizing a bike. Not overall body height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many other factors, so until you sit a given geometry, you can't really know if fits you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T08:47:41.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2459" CreationDate="2011-01-03T13:40:27.970" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to use it for &quot;proper mountain biking&quot; (however you define that) the answer is almost certainly no. You won't be able to fit wide enough tyres to give you decent grip, and punctures are likely to be a problem. Additionally, the geometry will be all wrong (if you put straight bars on it you'll probably feel quite cramped without a long stem, which will make the handling wierd). That's without getting into the strength issue - Cannondales have always seemed quite fragile to me (but that's an opinion only, never owned one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you want something for blasting along relatively smooth forest trails that aren't muddy, fit the widest grippiest tyres you can and give it a whirl. Despite what I said about strength in relation to proper mountain biking, road bikes are surprisingly strong provided the forces are applied to them in the way the bike is designed. A few small bumps are unlikely to break it assuming you're not a large rider, you don't try jumping and you don't crash. It'll be a very different experience from a proper mountain bike, but on the right trails could still be a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately though for proper cross country mountain biking you do need a mountain bike (or a cyclo cross bike). I'd suggest trying ebay with a reserve price to find out what people are prepared to pay for it. Second hand aluminium road bike frames aren't that desireable any more, even if they did have dura ace on them when purchased, simply because carbon frames are so much cheaper. However, second hand mountain bike frames are also pretty cheap, and a couple of hundred dollars towards one from selling the R3000 frame is infinitely more than nothing if it's just gathering dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="820" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T13:40:27.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2445" CreationDate="2011-01-03T15:20:29.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm decidedly a non-expert, but the following opinion is based on my experience with tires for other types of vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that might be a factor in determining the correct tire width (for any tire) is the rim width.  To match the tire width specified by manufacturer you have to have rims with the same width as the reference rim they use.  If your rim is wider, then the tire will inflate slightly wider (the side walls will bulge out further, and the contact patch will widen as well), a narrower rim gives you a narrower tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a feel for how this works, in the extreme (for snow bikes), &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/large_marge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Large Marge rims&lt;/a&gt; are 65mm wide and are typically used with &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/endomorph_tire/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Endomorph tires&lt;/a&gt; that are 3.7&quot; wide, but another company, Chain Reaction Cycles sells a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.us/Flattop%20Rim.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;100mm wide rim&lt;/a&gt; for use with the same tires.  The reason for the added width is because it adds volume to the tire and actually makes the contact patch wider, a useful benefit when you are trying to float over snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastEditorUserId="1050" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T06:43:30.800" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T06:43:30.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-04T08:05:34.270" Score="28" ViewCount="10453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding seriously/regularly for about a year now, although like the majority of the worlds population I've been on a bike since I was a kid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was first starting out I had no real trouble on the downhill parts of my rides ( I live in the San Francisco Bay area so the majority of my rides are hill rides), I was even getting comfortable going fast even on steeper downhills (25-30MPH according to my tripcomp, which might not be that fast, but it sure seems so now). Unfortunately the honeymoon didn't last as I was in a few near misses and an accident with a car (his fault not mine, I wasn't hurt but pretty shook up) on my downhill. Ever since then I've been very wary of any downhill parts, I'm always on the brakes and I don't feel comfortable at all getting any kind of speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mainly I'm worried that I don't have enough stopping distance given my speed, and since I already know what happens to my bike when I slam the brakes, I don't want to experience tumbling down the road at 25MPH. I've essentially lost confidence in my ability to right safely on my road bike (even though its mechanically sound), I don't have this problem on my mountain bike (where the fat tires and disk brakes are very comforting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've practiced all the downhill techniques, so it isn't a matter of being inexperienced (although I'm certainly not an expert, before the crash I was attacking the downhills pretty aggressively), I'm just physically frightened of letting go and riding down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the good news is that my rides have gotten much more uphill-heavy, which has certainly helped my hill endurance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, what can I do to make my downhills fun again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T02:31:52.377" Title="Getting over a downhill phobia" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-04T12:50:38.077" Score="4" ViewCount="4466" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing as a good Strida clone? What are the qualitative differences between any clones and a real Strida? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="953" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T00:25:45.987" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T21:04:35.830" Title="Good source for folding Strida clones?" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-11-07T23:40:00.093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2467" CreationDate="2011-01-04T16:53:05.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Downhills that have the possibility of cars entering/exiting from the side carry a extra risk and can take away a lot of fun in your ride.  Same goes for downhills with parked cars or traffic signals.  You do have to be careful on these since stopping distance is a concern.  You're also travelling faster than motorists expect, which can lead to more incidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a nasty crash on a downhill (bad pavement) and another near miss with a car entering from the right.  Both of these took some time to get over, but with enough time back on the bike it does get better.  Plus you know what to watch for next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rediscover your confidence on downhills, try finding quieter routes where you can let 'er rip without worrying about traffic so much.  You might have to go further afield, but the mountains should offer you some quieter backroads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T16:53:05.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2011-01-04T17:30:08.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your comments, it sounds like you're hoping to find a folding bike that folds up fast, but is also light enough to carry up stairs easily and small enough to fit through turnstiles and on the train with no problems.  All for well under $1000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be impossible.  There are cheap folding bikes (under $500) and there are lightweight ones that fold up small and easy to walk around with. You might be able to find something that meets all those criteria for cheap that's used, but I don't think you can manage that with a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.a-bike.co.uk/store/home.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A-Bike&lt;/a&gt; which is quite similar looking, but has a different folding mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's plenty of competition for folding bikes out there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://us.dahon.com/bikes/1638/curve-d3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dahon Curve D3&lt;/a&gt; $599, 16&quot; wheels like Strida, 25 pounds, 10-15 second fold time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://us.dahon.com/bikes/1642/eco-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dahon Eco 3&lt;/a&gt; $379, 20&quot; wheels, 26.7 pounds, 10-15 second fold time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brompton.co.uk/page.asp?p=3060&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brompton.co.uk/page.asp?p=3060&lt;/a&gt; -- but all above your named price point.  There are some &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.bikefriday.com/PreOwned&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pre-Owned Bromptons&lt;/a&gt; for just barely under $1000.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikefriday.com/commuter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Friday&lt;/a&gt; has a bunch of options, but all above the $1000 price point your comment mentions.  The super fast folder is this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.bikefriday.com/node/6301&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://community.bikefriday.com/node/6301&lt;/a&gt;, $1300, 5 second fold time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big problem with any bicycle with such small wheels is that the ride is going to be rough and it'll be easier for the wheel to get caught on something instead of rolling over it; most compensate with wider wheels and tires which should help eliminate some of the roughness. Depending on the folding mechanism there's potentially structural (strength) problems with folding bicycles, though many compensate for those with additional material and instead make the bike heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd see if there was someplace I could give some folding bicycles a test ride. I'd be likely to go with something with 20&quot; wheels instead of 16&quot;, too.  16&quot; does fold up smaller, but 20&quot; is pretty close and should be a much nicer ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-01-05T18:37:23.737" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T18:37:23.737" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2460" CreationDate="2011-01-04T18:06:45.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 5'8&quot; and have ridden a 56cm frame (Kestrel) and now 54cm (Orbea). Each manufacturer will fit differently based on the other tube lengths, the position of the seat stays, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Darkcanuck's post from the website makes me think you may be ok, though it could be on the smaller side. I prefer riding a frame on the smaller side though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're about 6' and this is their &quot;large&quot; frame, instinct tells me it's probably the right fit. 51cm sounds really small though, not knowing the other details, so I wouldn't consider that your &quot;normal&quot; size for other bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastEditorUserId="7741" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T18:45:27.063" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T18:45:27.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2467" CreationDate="2011-01-05T02:51:03.390" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy answer....is to recover gradually. My experience has been in S.F., Seattle, and now Portland. All of which are hilly cities. Plus a lot of riding on mountain roads. So, I totally relate to your situation. ...and it's not always an easy answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After spooky near-misses, and a few crashes...here's what I do to get my mojo back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find some significant, low-traffic hills where you can just have fun and enjoy the exhilaration on the downhills. You don't want this to be too steep and curvy, but you do want speed. The goal here is to comfortably enjoy the descent and ride it safely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After that, move up to a more congested and/or curvy hilly area and do the same thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you're comfortable with fast, downhill riding, you can get into some traffic. But now you have &quot;city riding&quot; in the scenario. You must balance your downhill skills with your city skills.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I have watched some messengers scarily bomb down Nob Hill. Personally, I don't need to duplicate their endeavors; however, one can do those hills without riding the brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T02:51:03.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2467" CreationDate="2011-01-05T13:44:29.133" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several issues at play here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how to not repeat the previous accident, the cause of your current disquiet &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how to 'get back on the horse' &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how to potentially avoid the situation through new skills &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what could you learn from the previous accident? While it was their fault, could you have mitigated it - too many people don't predict the actions of those around them too well. Much of the skills of riding in traffic aren't in avoiding problems when you come across them, it's in the not being involved in a problem to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. with a better road and riding position, might you have seen the car earlier and then avoided it? When I know I'm going to be going faster and a decent percentage of the speed limit then I'll deliberately move into the centre of the lane, perhaps in the very middle if it's a two-lane road. If you're going 25-27 mph in a 30 mph zone, then cars &lt;em&gt;shouldn't&lt;/em&gt; mind you being there, 'in the way'. And sit up, don't go down on the drops, your eyes need to be scanning well ahead, not staring 5 feet in front of you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there might be alternative routes, avoiding the hills, but while that could count as not putting yourself in the problem area to begin with, it's probably not a sustainable solution in many places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was learning to ski, I had similar issues. You don't feel as though you can go faster than your perceived ability to stop at any given time. As you gained ability (and confidence) I realised that being able to carry speed through turns over bumps was as much about missing out on things to slow down for, as about getting down the mountain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be more visible and assertive, if you're sat up and look big, they might expect you to be travelling faster (or at least appreciate it sooner) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make clear signals to others what you intend to do - so they can avoid you while you're avoiding them &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Definitely avoid pot hole and bad road surface - they make for unpredictable movements &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride the brakes if you feel you need to, it's not all about getting to the bottom as fast as possible, it &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; about using the right speed for the conditions &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T13:44:29.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2476" CreationDate="2011-01-05T19:48:17.523" Score="10" ViewCount="17984" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I know my jeans size, for instance 32&quot;, 32&quot;, can I convert this into an estimate for standover height on a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-09T20:09:15.277" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T20:09:15.277" Title="Does inseam of pants convert to stand over height of a bike?" Tags="&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2474" CreationDate="2011-01-05T20:03:53.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's close enough for a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; rough guess, but in most cases (especially if using a sizing formula) you'll want to measure the distance from the ground right up to your pubic bone.  Unless your pants drag along the ground, you're inseam size will be a bit shorter: somewhere in the range of 1-3&quot; (as a guess).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get this quickly measured at many road bike shops as part of the shopping process (i.e. it should be free).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T20:03:53.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2474" CreationDate="2011-01-05T20:42:58.613" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might not be a very good place to start from when sizing a bicycle.  Your inseam measurement is from the top of the crotch (top inseam point) to the BOTTOM SIDE OF THE ANKLE (lowest inseam point).  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Your feet go all the way to the floor.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inseam is specifically to determine what pants you wear.  I might point out that pants and bicycles are made and sized quite differently.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @darkcanuck suggested, you're better served to stop by a local bike shop (LBS) and have them size you.  Most LBS sales people will be more than happy to put you on a couple of bikes and let you take a test ride, even if you say, &quot;I don't plan to buy anything today, I'm just starting to shop around.&quot;  It won't cost you anything and you'll start to get a feel for how different styles of bikes feel in different sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that standover is not the only measure you need to size your bike.  The TOP TUBE length will also come into play--depending on how long your arms and torso are.  Different manufacturers build different bikes with different ratios of top-tube-to-stand-over.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the bike, you will also want to consider handle-bar width, crank-arm length, etc.  Don't plan to buy a bike off of the internet because it has the right stand-over!  At least, don't be surprised if you do so and then it doesn't feel right.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try out several actual bikes--even if they aren't ones you plan to actually buy--so you know how those different geometries feel when you're riding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AND IF YOU'RE LOOKING AT A USED BIKE... it still pays to try out some new ones and know what geometry suits you.  When you are negotiating with a seller of a used bike, show up with tape measure in hand!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T20:42:58.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2474" CreationDate="2011-01-05T23:54:13.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no.  For information on frame sizes and all things bikes, consult the late Sheldon Brown's website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an incredible resource!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="957" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T23:54:13.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2445" CreationDate="2011-01-06T01:25:05.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got an email from Harris Cyclery, and they said the plain Paselas (no Tour Guard etc.) run &quot;pretty true to width&quot;.  Didn't get any measurements from them, though, and i don't have any Paselas myself.  I use 28 mm Panaracer Rolly Poly tires, and will soon be getting a set of 28 mm Grand Bois Cerf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would be nice to have a webpage of true width measurements of various popular tires on various popular rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="947" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T01:25:05.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2483" CreationDate="2011-01-06T12:09:44.793" Score="23" ViewCount="19461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few events coming up this year which have a fair amount of climbing (one is over a hundred miles with about 6500ft of ascent - that's an average of just over 1% for the entire distance). Obviously the best training is to get out and ride hills, again and again, but what recommendations are there for gym exercises to help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access at work to a reasonably well equipped gym (a decent selection of weights machines and a small amount of free weight equipment). I haven't actually used it much - I used to do a sport which demanded a lot of time on the weights and since stopping regular training for that I've been enjoying not having to push any iron. So my imagination for weights is a little rusty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would you suggest as good exercises in the gym to improve climbing capabilities? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="9" LastEditDate="2011-01-06T14:03:13.387" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:16:59.330" Title="What exercise should I do in the gym to assist with hill-climbing?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2460" CreationDate="2011-01-06T12:13:30.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on your inseam. I'm 6' and typically ride a 58 or 59cm road frame, or a 19&quot; mtn. frame. My inseam is 33&quot;. Your torso to inseam ratio matters a great deal, as some frames will have a longer top tube to seat tube ratio than others. There is no substitute for a test ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T12:13:30.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2459" CreationDate="2011-01-06T12:18:10.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would strongly advise against converting an aluminum Cannondale road frame to mountain bike duty. They're not built to take the headtube stress a typical suspension fork will inflict on the frame.  If you keep a rigid front fork and go the cyclocross route, you'll have better luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T12:18:10.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2487" CreationDate="2011-01-06T20:46:38.897" Score="8" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to bike in bad weather and especially at work i have no way to store my bike in a dry place, this means that my bike chain picks up rust like nothing else, forcing me to clean it a lot. Now i'm wondering whether there are any brands of chains that are made for this kind of environment (and maybe cost a bit/lot more)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: I'm looking for the quality product in the chain world that's in a similar place of status as a Brooks saddle in the saddle world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="904" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-11T05:06:02.317" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T19:00:21.033" Title="Are there brands that sell weather-resistant chains?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2479" CreationDate="2011-01-06T21:52:26.053" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many ways this needs to be individualized. My experience has been in century type rides during the summers over the last 15 years. Most of which are in hilly and mountainous regions in Oregon and Washington. The suggestions following are what I have refined during that period based on experience and significant reading on the subject. Additionally, I work part time as a fitness trainer, and have helped others train for centuries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the off-season, which for me runs from November through February, my primary goals in the gym are strength, power and stability. After February, the gym work is minimal and training shifts to riding. I can't provide a complete description here, but here's a summary of my program related to climbing ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strength - The key exercises are lunges, squats and rack-pulls. These exercises utilize free weights, build strength and work the entire lower body. Additionally, since they're done with free weights, you achieve improvements in core stability and balance. In general, these are done with heavy weight, 5 reps and 3 or 4 sets. A hugely important aspect is correct form in order to avoid injury.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power - Power exercises are for developing explosive ability and speed. An example would be when you need an extra burst on a steep section of a hill. Also known as plyometrics. Here's a link to the basic idea: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sport-fitness-advisor.com/plyometricexercises.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sport-fitness-advisor.com/plyometricexercises.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stability - These exercises are designed to improve stability and utilize body weight and/or light weights. Split squat, medicine ball squat, single-leg Romanian deadlift, ball squat, crossover step-up, side-lying leg lifts. (FWIW - I have virtually eliminated an ITBS issue with this stability workout.) For each of these it's 3 sets, 10 reps. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, during the course of the off-season I am cycling through these strength, power and stability workouts. For myself it's approximately 60% strength, 20% power, and 20% stability. How one cycles through these workouts is highly individualistic and is based on goals and one's fitness level. For example, in the last 3 weeks, I've done strength work on Monday and Friday with plyometrics on Wednesday. And next week will be 3 or 4 stability workouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next planned century is in mid May. In March, I'll drop the strength and power training and move to almost exclusively to &quot;on bike&quot; training. The guide I follow pretty closely is &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velopress.com/cycling.php?id=284&quot;&gt;The Time-Crunched Cyclis&lt;/a&gt;t&lt;/em&gt; by Chris Carmichael and Jim Rutberg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;And just a note...the workout plan is not specifically and only for hill climbing. Through experience, I've found that the stronger I am going into the &quot;season&quot;, the better I perform.&lt;/em&gt; Additionally, my other sports and daily living activities are improved as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;An update&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;...not to belabor &lt;em&gt;The Time-Crunched Cyclist&lt;/em&gt;, but both I and riding partners have significantly improved our personal performance on hilly to mountainous century rides using Carmichael's methods. There are 3 types of intervals specific to climbing improvement. Not the full details, but a summary. Mix these into your training rides. Generally, not all three on the same day, and not on consecutive days; but these intervals once or twice a week should yield results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Climbing Repeats - Done a long, steady climb. Staying within 78 - 80% of Max Heart Rate for the climb with a cadence of 70 - 85 rpm. This increases climbing lactate threshold. (3X, 6 minutes each, 3 minute rest between)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hill Acceleration - On a long, moderate climb, pedal slowly until reaching the last 500 yards. Then gradually speed up so that you are at near max heart rate. Finish out of the saddle at max effort. (4X, 10 seconds, 3 minute rest between)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hill Sprint - Roll at a moderate speed in a moderate to light gear. As you hit the hill, jump out of the saddle and go hard. Try to hold top speed. Increases power for acceleration. (4X, 10 seconds, 3 minute rest between) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-01-19T22:39:23.737" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T22:39:23.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2482" CreationDate="2011-01-06T22:23:15.900" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lube your chain frequently. As in every time it rains if you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the drive-train, you can get Shimano or SRAM chains at places like Nashbar or Performance Bike, but even top-of-the-line, expensive chains will get rusty if they're out in the rain all the time. The same will hold with a Brooks saddle. No matter how awesome it is, if it's exposed to poor conditions without proper maintenance, it will deteriorate quickly. So lube your chain frequently, and dry it off whenever you get a chance before storing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: If you go riding around with tons of lube on your chain in dry, dusty conditions, you'll pick up &lt;em&gt;lots&lt;/em&gt; of dirt in your drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T22:23:15.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2482" CreationDate="2011-01-07T09:53:02.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you shoud use some midrange drivetrain components for the winter period and replace them in spring with whatever you prefer. There is no way any chain will survive the winter salt and sand of the roads conbination they use in my coutry (Latvia).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chains should be changed every 1000 miles, so just use cheaper chain in winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-07T17:05:39.383" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T17:05:39.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2482" CreationDate="2011-01-07T22:30:54.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a wet and rainy climate. Portland, OR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just lube the chain regularly. I buy replacements as needed during spring sales. Cheapest ones I can get. A local shop has an annual sale, and that's where I get chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can easily spend anywhere from $8 to $60 on a chain. I'm not a racer, but &lt;em&gt;for commuting&lt;/em&gt;, I usually spend ~ $8 - $10 on the chain and swap it out annually or as needed. No salt on the roads here. Just wet; so I can't speak for places with salted winter roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-01-10T23:27:03.187" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T23:27:03.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2482" CreationDate="2011-01-09T18:15:20.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try a stainless steel chain (Wipperman makes them), or if you have very deep pockets, a titanium chain - however I've not seen one for sale for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Titanium does not rust, but I'm pretty sure it still needs lubrication to prevent binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also apparently public-hire bikes in London have chains with some kind of ceramic coating which need no lubrication; but they use 3 speed hub gears I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that with lubes, there is a trade-off between stickiness and longevity. Waterproof marine grease would be incredibly resistant to washing off, but it would also pick up an incredible amount of dirt, which would have a negative effect on your drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="965" LastEditorUserId="965" LastEditDate="2011-01-10T11:06:26.713" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T11:06:26.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2489" CreationDate="2011-01-10T12:42:44.137" Score="22" ViewCount="2931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bv.com.au/general/bikes-and-riding/10000023/&quot;&gt;read recently&lt;/a&gt; that fluorescent clothing was not effective at all at night.  If this is the case, how effective is it during the day, and should I stop buying tops that are fluorescent to use on my daily commute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2011-06-13T08:35:08.007" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T08:35:08.007" Title="Is fluorescent clothing effective?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2488" CreationDate="2011-01-10T15:09:37.537" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several terms around this subject. A key thing here is reflectivity (or more specifically retroreflectivity), rather than fluorescence. Fluoresence is the property of a material where it absorbs light at one wavelength, e.g. ultraviolet sunlight, but then reflects back light from the visual spectrum. This is most useful in daylight conditions, using the sunlight to create more human visible light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything (well, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-reflective_coating&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;almost everything&lt;/a&gt;) is reflective to some degree, mostly diffuse reflection where light hits a surface and scatters, but this reflection goes in many directions and breaks apart into many wavelengths. Alternatively there is  a property called retroreflection which reflects light back to its source, in contrast to mirror (or specular) reflection which just bounces off, as light does with a mirror, in a single opposing direction. Hence a person near the light source, e.g. a driver in a car, sees the retroreflective surface.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus in terms of visibility, you don't just need flourescent material at night because there isn't enough light in the usable spectrum, so a yellow jacket isn't going to be any more useful than a white t-shirt. So while they'll both be more visible than something black, in order to stand out in a driver's headlights, you need &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retroreflector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;retroreflective&lt;/a&gt; material to actively react, rather than passively reflect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Possibly related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/296/how-can-i-make-my-bike-and-myself-visible-at-night&quot;&gt;visibility at night&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2355/night-cycling-is-it-worth-using-electroluminescent-wire&quot;&gt;using electroluminescent wire&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T10:13:17.910" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2482" CreationDate="2011-01-11T01:46:08.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wax, my friend.  The initial time investment might be higher than squirting on oil, but it will last longer, cleaner and be easier in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a great description of how to do it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecovelo.info/2011/01/08/for-the-non-believers-in-the-crowd-chain-waxing-re-visited/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ecovelo.info/2011/01/08/for-the-non-believers-in-the-crowd-chain-waxing-re-visited/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T01:46:08.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2491" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-01-11T04:59:33.103" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-11T04:59:33.103" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T04:59:33.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2492" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-01-11T04:59:33.103" Score="0" Body="Cycling in cold weather, on snow and ice, in wet weather. Clothing and equipment issues relating to winter." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:26:30.020" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:26:30.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2493" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:04:37.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to ask about how to ride safely or safety equipment, please use this tag. You might also want to use it for questions that touch on issues of safety, such as bike lanes or driver education. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-02T18:33:31.950" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T18:33:31.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2494" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:04:37.793" Score="0" Body="Riding safely, safety equipment, and safe places to ride. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T20:54:36.880" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T20:54:36.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2495" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:05:27.077" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-11T05:05:27.077" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T05:05:27.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2496" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:05:27.077" Score="0" Body="Questions about clothing work while cycling. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-11T05:05:27.077" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T05:05:27.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2497" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:10:32.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/375/maintenance-and-repair-tags-is-one-or-both-of-these-superflous&quot;&gt;this thread in meta&lt;/a&gt; for more information on the differences between the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/repair&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'repair'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;repair&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/maintenance&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'maintenance'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;maintenance&lt;/a&gt; tags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your question is about, for example, keeping stuff on your bike in working order or in its best condition (such as your bike's drivetrain, brakes) it should have this tag. Questions about tires or paintjobs are borderline, depending on focus of the question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the most popular kinds of question here, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/maintenance&quot;&gt;as you can see&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3720/optimal-maintenance-schedule&quot;&gt;Optimal Maintenance Schedule&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5027/manage-and-track-maintenance-schedules&quot;&gt;Manage and Track Maintenance Schedules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4975/how-long-should-a-well-maintained-chain-last-and-what-can-i-do-to-prolong-its-lif&quot;&gt;How long should a well maintained chain last and what can I do to prolong its Life?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T20:51:34.747" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T20:51:34.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2498" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:10:32.907" Score="0" Body="Tools, parts, techniques, and procedures to keep your bike in working order. MAINTENANCE is not the same as REPAIR, a separate tag. Maintenance is what one does on a regular basis. Repair is what one does only when something is broken." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T20:51:34.777" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T20:51:34.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2499" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:17:07.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commonly asked questions by commuters include: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to carry stuff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of bike to use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to clean up and store clothing at work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-11T05:17:07.080" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T05:17:07.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2500" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:17:07.080" Score="0" Body="Riding to and from work. Other cycling primarily for transportation. Carrying stuff. Picking a bike. Related issues." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:16:34.223" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:16:34.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2482" CreationDate="2011-01-11T19:00:21.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zinc coated chains apparently work well. I've never used one (yet) but &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikebikecalgary.blogspot.com/2010/12/tough-stuff.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;they come highly recommended&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T19:00:21.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-12T17:31:50.093" Score="7" ViewCount="28245" Body="&lt;p&gt;First question here, and please note that I am a total bike virgin, other than the fact I can (just about) ride one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year I bought a Felt Q520 (I think) the 2009 model, secondhand that had been virtually unused. It's been ridden a few times (i.e. 3) and stored in a room in my flat for about a year, and then moved to a damp understairs outside cupboard thing for about 6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just moved house, to somewhere where I can use the bike, which I plan on doing heavily as I loved it when I could ride it, but it is quite rusty. The chain, the err, gear disc things, the front disc brake all have varying degrees of brown rust. (and both tyres are flat :( )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, after that essay, my question is: Can my bike be saved with a good intensive clean with some magical product I am not aware of? Can I do it myself easily or should I take it to a bike shop, and, most importantly, will a bike shop charge me the earth for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="974" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-12T17:33:44.117" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T18:52:46.853" Title="Can my bike be recovered from the rust monster?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2011-01-12T17:58:20.483" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn how to fix a flat tire and &lt;em&gt;practice&lt;/em&gt; it at home. You don't want to waste a lot of time when you're on the road and stressed about being late.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carry everything you need to fix aforementioned flat: Two tire levers and a patch kit should be fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your patch kit from time to time, and make sure you (a) have enough patches and (b) the glue hasn't turned solid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One neat trick I learned for finding the flat when you can't hear it over the passing cars and you forgot your portable bathtub: Pump up the tube and hold it up close to the extremely-sensitive skin between your nose and mouth. Rotate the tire around until you feel the air blowing. You will look funny while you do this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, put some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slime.com/&quot;&gt;Slime&lt;/a&gt; in your tubes, and you'll cut down on the number of times you have to worry about points 1 through 4. It will make your tires heavier, but you're commuting, not racing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="973" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T17:58:20.483" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-12T17:58:20.483" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2011-01-12T22:26:14.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like your frame is aluminum. So the frame should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Can my bike be saved with a good intensive clean with some magical product I am not aware of?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issues are likely with your cogs, chainrings and chain. So, remove, clean and lubricate. And also, wheel bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Can I do it myself easily or should I take it to a bike shop, and, most importantly, will a bike shop charge me the earth for it?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you can do this easily yourself depends on your personal mechanical inclination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Can my bike be saved with a good intensive clean with some magical product I am not aware of?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably, with your effort. I'm doubting the magical product though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check out this thread if you need help with repair and maintenance - &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/210/where-to-find-good-bicycle-maintenance-info&quot;&gt;Where to find good bicycle maintenance info?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The books listed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zinncycles.com/book_and_dvd.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lennard Zinn&lt;/a&gt; are well worth the investment if you plan on working on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T18:52:46.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1952" CreationDate="2011-01-12T23:17:16.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This summer I switched from pretty nobby tires on my mountain bike to slicks.  I was doing a longer overnight trip with a friend and wanted to put in a little less effort.  I found that I could go so much faster with slicks that the gearing on my bike was bordering on being too slow.  Just shows what a bit difference swapping out the tires does.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one counter argument about swapping out your tires.  After you switch to slick tires, going the same distance, you will exert much less energy.  If you are cycling for exercise and only want to go a certain distance you will get a better workout with studdy tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T23:17:16.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-13T00:10:38.567" Score="16" ViewCount="3528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been thinking about making the ultimate winter bike.  Here are some of the things that I have been thinking about.  What else would you think about when building a good winter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am specifically building this bike for &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.ca/?utm_campaign=en&amp;utm_source=en-ha-na-ca-bk-gm&amp;utm_medium=ha&amp;utm_term=google%20maps&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ottawa, Ontario, Canada&lt;/a&gt;.  The average January temperature is -10°C (12 °F) but it can get as cold as −30 °C (−22 °F).  I am interested in making a bike that will ride well in both urban and more rural areas.  It should be able to handle snow and ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Frame&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road frames generally have less clearance for wide tires, mud guards etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even when the roads are &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; clear in the winter I often encounter snow filled streets and icy patches.  I am leaning towards a &lt;strong&gt;mountain frame&lt;/strong&gt; because I think that it would be better suited to this kind of semi-technical riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have never used &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1195/different-kinds-of-handlebars/1213#1213&quot;&gt;drop bars&lt;/a&gt; in the winter before I really liked having a long handle bar.  I found that this really helped to balance on slippery roads.  Seems like if you want drop bars it is best to start with a road frame because &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1136/upgrading-straight-handlebars-to-drop-handlebars/1139#1139&quot;&gt;adding drop bars looks like a pain&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corrosion -  An aluminum frame will hold up better than a steel frame in the winter.  I think that the salt will do a number on steel, &lt;strong&gt;aluminum&lt;/strong&gt; should hold up better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Suspension&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last winter I decided that I want to get a new fork this winter without suspension.  In the summer I feel totally comfortable jumping off ledges on my bike.  In the winter I would not want to jump off anything that required suspension because in winter it is too hard to guess what the traction will be like when landing.  I also found that my &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2357/frozen-suspension-in-the-winter&quot;&gt;suspension froze&lt;/a&gt; so even if I had wanted it it would not have helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tires&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Studs help grip on ice but will not help in snowy weather.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wide tires help to float the rider on top of the snow.  If you want to have really wide tires you need to get wider rims.  You can find rims up to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allweathersports.com/winter/snowcats.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;44m wide&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Brakes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love my disk brakes.  They are very reliable and I trust them.  I have not used rim brakes in the winter but I know when they get wet they grip less well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I want no suspension and disk brakes it is tricky to find a fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lights&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Ottawa the sun can set as early as 4:30.  To see and be seen serious lights are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mud Guards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last winter I did not use mud guards.  I found generally everything was frozen so I did not get too wet.  I think after I remove my suspension I may add some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminum Mountain Frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disk Brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No Suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Studded tires (wide if going in deep snow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What else would you think about when building a bike for the winter?&lt;/strong&gt;  I am hoping to get a used frame and used parts when possible and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1247/how-to-make-studded-tires&quot;&gt;make the studded tires&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T06:28:10.600" Title="What needs to be considered when building a winter bike?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2011-01-13T03:16:17.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with wdypdx22 that your frame is likely ok.  (otherwise you might be in for a lot more work)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest taking a crack at cleaning up the drivetrain (that's the chain, the chainrings and cogs, aka &lt;em&gt;gear disc things&lt;/em&gt;) yourself before taking it into the shop.  It's a simple job and doesn't require expensive tools.  Basically you'll want to scrub the chain &amp;amp; gears with degreaser, rinse, let dry and then re-apply chain lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd explain it in more detail, but others have done a better job with these answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/692/what-to-use-to-clean-your-chain-and-cogs/693#693&quot;&gt;What to use to clean your chain (and cogs)?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1507/how-can-i-clean-sand-off-my-bike-chain/1516#1516&quot;&gt;How can I clean sand off my bike chain?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm less familiar with disc brakes, but if the rust is on the braking surface, try using some very fine sandpaper or steel wool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's only been a year, you should be able to do a decent clean up.  If, despite your best efforts, there's still lots of rust left or the bike doesn't feel right then your local bike shop should be able to fix it.  Plan on a tune up charge at minimum, or some new components in the worst case.  Either way it will be cheaper than buying a new bike.  &lt;em&gt;(I'd recommend getting the tune-up done anyway in case there are other problems you've missed.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T03:16:17.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2011-01-13T04:01:58.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good for you, to think of riding as a year-round activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would choose an older &lt;strong&gt;steel frame&lt;/strong&gt; (Specialized Rockhopper from 1994?). Steel is very durable, and the older frame is less to be worried about with salt. Put a little FrameSaver on the insides, and don't worry about it. (I'm not an expert on these, just a Grant Petersen fanboy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really don't want to get stranded in an Ottawa winter. Add some &lt;strong&gt;storage&lt;/strong&gt;, and carry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a plentiful toolkit, including a multitool, pump, and spare tube. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cash for bus &amp;amp; phone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare batteries for your light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;compact warm items, like a balaclava, gloves, and a wool hat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick to &lt;strong&gt;rim brakes&lt;/strong&gt; in the wet is to &lt;strong&gt;dry them out&lt;/strong&gt; before you need them. When you anticipate a need to stop (approaching a driveway or intersection, for example), lightly apply the brakes. After one rotation of the wheels you'll have most of your braking power back. After a second rotation, they'll be in great shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T04:01:58.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2011-01-13T04:47:25.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, I use a check list. It hasn't happened yet, but I fear the day I arrive at work having left some part of my work wardrobe at home.  Anyway, the list has everything I need, and I just run down it before heading out the door. Nerdy, maybe, I like to think it's cool like jet pilots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T04:47:25.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2510" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-01-13T05:32:44.797" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-13T05:32:44.797" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T05:32:44.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2511" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-01-13T05:32:44.797" Score="0" Body="Carrying stuff with your bike, using racks, backpacks, trailers, etc. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:32:25.427" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:32:25.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2521" CreationDate="2011-01-13T12:09:21.947" Score="8" ViewCount="1234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was lucky last winter I went the entire winter without getting a flat.  I attribute it mostly to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sharp items on the road being hidden under snow and ice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less agressive riding resulting in no blow out flats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious how other people deal with flats in the winter.  Although I always carry a spare tube and CO2 I don't think I would be able to change a tire with bulky winter gloves on.  Changing a tire gloveless is also not really an option.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you deal with flats in the winter?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T03:33:35.600" Title="How do you deal with flats in the winter?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2531" CreationDate="2011-01-13T12:26:54.153" Score="11" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two winter packs on for if I will be away from pay phones and taxis and another for when I will be close to home and telephones: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Close to home pack&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;money for calling a cab&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lights in case it gets dark&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extra tube and pump (although I am considering &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2512/how-do-you-deal-with-flats-in-the-winter&quot;&gt;removing this&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Far from home pack&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close to home pack plus: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pannier to carry extra gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra clothing including:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warmer/cooler pair of long underwear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra sweater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermos full of hot/warm water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Piece of fruit and an energy bar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tool kit (Although maybe it is too cold to use these outside)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tube and pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;zip ties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;small vice grips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;allen keys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What else do you carry in your winter pack?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T18:54:46.473" Title="What do you bring in your winter pack?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-13T17:29:19.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2513" CreationDate="2011-01-13T12:42:42.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wet gear&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted I'm cycling to work and live in Ireland where we seem to have several rain gods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the top item in my pannier.  Share some of your other items but not quite as organised: maybe I should take note.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T12:42:42.843" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-13T17:29:19.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2512" CreationDate="2011-01-13T12:47:16.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I walk.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not being a smart arse.  I'd rather the inconvenience of a walk rather than having to bring the necessary equipment with me every time, knowing the one time I forget is when I get a flat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted this could be difficult if distances are long but I'd try and call in for help in that case.  Like yourself I've managed the whole winter without a flat, yet!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T12:47:16.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2524" CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:21:41.907" Score="31" ViewCount="99739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always heard &quot;never use barends&quot; and they're banned equipment for some of the local clubs/group rides.  A number of people on-line swear by them though.  What's up with that!?  :-)  Why would I NOT want them?  When do I want them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Running with @sixtyfootersdude comment from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1136/upgrading-straight-handlebars-to-drop-handlebars&quot;&gt;Upgrading straight handlebars to drop handlebars&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T03:09:24.377" Title="Pros/Cons of Bar-Ends?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2516" CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:33:17.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are dangerous in case of a crash. I still have nice &quot;Nike&quot; form scar on my leg from &lt;strong&gt;my own bar end&lt;/strong&gt;, when my front tire exploded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise they are just fine and recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T14:33:17.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2512" CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:39:47.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always carry good walking shoes with me.  If the bike fails on me for any reason, I can walk it the rest of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T14:39:47.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:37:19.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a list stuck on the garage wall next to all my bike stuff. It really annoys me when I forget things so I always check it at least twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T21:13:24.797" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T21:13:24.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2513" CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:48:36.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extra batteries for your phone and lights&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the only thing more unpleasant than walking a long distance to find a phone due to bike damage is walking a long distance to find a phone while its cold and wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastEditorUserId="563" LastEditDate="2011-01-13T20:54:22.397" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T20:54:22.397" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-13T17:29:19.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2512" CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:45:22.563" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/367/what-is-a-good-way-to-keep-my-tires-from-going-flat-easily&quot;&gt;Prevention&lt;/a&gt; (good tyres, good inflation, regular checks). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most rides, walking isn't an option, while I do sometimes run my commute, I use the bike because generally I want to get home. So a spare tube and CO2 is obligatory - with practice and a decent place to work (which can't always be guaranteed at the side of the road) I can change a tyre in less than five minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In colder weather (at or around freezing) I ride with thin liner gloves inside cold weather gloves and I find I can change a tyre with them still on; this both keeps the fingers slightly less cold, but also a little cleaner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're operating in a climate that regularly sees weather that's cold enough that five minutes without gloves is not an option, chapeau. But I think I would be looking for run-flat options (e.g. goo) and some way to get me home quicker than on foot!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T16:45:22.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2516" CreationDate="2011-01-13T17:47:23.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the road condition, traffic congestion and the type of the ride. It is banned from most local group rides that i am aware of. When you're riding wheel-to-wheel 20+ mph, chances are you're not going to be able to stop in the nick of time. Not to mention that your body weight shifts to the front which makes maneuvering and stopping twice as difficult.&#xA;However, i don't see it as a problem on a quiet ride with 1 or 2 other people and where traffic is very light. Bar-ends aren't that bad. Just have to be aware of your surroundings and make a decision when it's actually okay to use them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="981" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T17:47:23.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2512" CreationDate="2011-01-13T18:32:55.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was living in the North Country and it was cold... like below zero for most of January... I switched to puncture-resistant tubes.  I mean, I wasn't going for long rides.  I wasn't riding because it was a lot of fun--it was transportation and I was on a beater-mountain-bike with big knobbys, anyway.  The extra weight wasn't that big a deal.  The thick rubber tubes are heavy, but they keep your rims off of the pavement and you have to hit something serious to get a puncture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the spring, I took those damned things out of my tires and put lightweight tubes back in.  Nice thing about the heavy-rubber tubes is that they last for several winters.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For running back and forth to the grocery store, it worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So.  Answer to your question... at -22F.  Avoid changing a tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T18:32:55.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2516" CreationDate="2011-01-13T20:03:30.903" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bar ends are typically banned from group/club rides because of the potential to hook another rider when riding in a tight group.  Because a flat MTB-style handlebar is wider than a drop bar, adding bar ends increases the likelihood of snagging another rider.  (drop bars still can cause crashes though, which I've seen first hand)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the plus side, adding bar ends gives you more hand positions to choose from (similar to using drop bars).  This is very important on long rides (e.g. touring) since your hands can go numb and possibly suffer nerve damage if you keep them in one position for too long.  Some people find the hand position on bar ends more comfortable too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Papuass has been injured by a bar end in a crash.  My experience is the opposite: the bar end protected my hand from sliding along the pavement at high speed, saving me a fair amount of skin.  So it can go both ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not doing group rides where bar ends are banned, I would definitely consider trying them for the sake of having more hand positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T20:03:30.903" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2526" CreationDate="2011-01-13T21:05:53.433" Score="5" ViewCount="2203" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend was just showing me the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en_us/bikes/2010/S2/prices-specs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2010 Cervélo S2 specs&lt;/a&gt;, as well as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en_us/bikes/2011/S2/prices-specs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2011 S2 specs&lt;/a&gt;, and the Ultegra line, at least, changes from a 53/39 chainring set in 2010 to a 50/34 set in 2011. This seems like a pretty steep difference, especially given that the more expensive Red and Dura-Ace lines for 2011 keep the larger chainring sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine someone spending $4,000 on a bike being that put off by a larger chainring set  than someone spending $5,000 enough to cause customer demand to change the size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="609" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-01-13T21:44:43.160" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T09:44:21.483" Title="Why would a manufacturer change chainring sizes drastically between years?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2525" CreationDate="2011-01-13T21:48:37.590" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, in 2010 there's the S1, S2 and S3.  S1 is lower-end and has 50/34.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2011, they dropped the S1 and there's only the S2 and S3.  (based on what's up on their website right now)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lowest end of the line is probably considered something like &quot;entry level&quot; or at least &quot;not for racers&quot;, so it gets the &quot;slower&quot; chainring setup.  They've kept the chainring size on the cheapest bikes in the line the same, they just moved the labels for what the cheapest bike is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's probably all about marketing and whatnot, nothing to do with any real solid technical reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T21:48:37.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2011-01-14T10:34:20.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I leave it on the bike, but I have the luxury of not leaving my bike outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="digitalpete" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T19:06:33.787" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T19:06:33.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2566" CreationDate="2011-01-14T11:26:03.743" Score="8" ViewCount="20225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been commuting on a flat bar road bike for a couple of years now. The ride feels comfortable but whenever I see myself riding I always think my posture is wonky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a guide somewhere or picture that shows proper riding posture on a flat bar road bike? I've seen many of racers but none of flat bar/hybrids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached the image of my bicycle, will try to get a picture of my posture on it soon.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gHhp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;my machine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="985" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-14T04:03:06.963" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T04:03:06.963" Title="Proper Posture on a flat bar road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2532" CreationDate="2011-01-14T18:19:17.287" Score="7" ViewCount="2696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride to work most days.  If I'm getting a cold or something,  I sometimes hop on the bus. I save no time by riding the bus, so I rarely do it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a month ago, I installed Planet Bike full-coverage plastic fenders on my bike, a mid-80's Schwinn Tempo.  I've got the Hardcore fenders.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002KCFSPI&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Hardcore-Road-Fender/dp/B002KCFSPI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that the bike racks on public transit buses are fairly universal, in the U.S. anyhow.  They appear to be the same on all of the transit buses I've used throughout California and in the Chicago area.  Maybe there are different ones--but in these two areas they appear to be the same.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycling.511.org/transit.htm&quot;&gt;http://bicycling.511.org/transit.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this.  &lt;strong&gt;Will the fenders interfere with the bar that goes over the front wheel?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried it because I don't want to inconvenience other bus users by futzing with a bike that might not fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:26:31.773" Title="Will my road bike fit in the racks on a public transit bus now that I have put fenders on it?" Tags="&lt;public-transportation&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2529" CreationDate="2011-01-14T18:41:39.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my folder on the bus racks, with it's fenders, and it wasn't a problem.  But that's with smaller wheels than your Tempo, so I'm not sure if that really answers your question.  FWIW, the bar always seems to extend further than I need for the road bikes, so I don't see why it wouldn't extend enough to go past your fenders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T18:41:39.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2513" CreationDate="2011-01-14T18:54:46.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live somewhere where it usually gets down to freezing sometime in the winter, but not for too long, and we never get snow. Lots and lots of rain, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Absolute minimum:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;money for a cab or bus (or bus pass and payment card for taxi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ID card (but thinking might replace or supplement with road ID)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lights if darkness is likely (I have a front and rear reelight set that stay on, but if darkness is at all likely I'll bring a real headlight and tail light, too)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pump (it's attached to the bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water bottle (in cage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;small U-bolt lock (mounted on bike) unless absolutely sure I won't be needing to lock up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cell phone (turned off for long recreational ride through poor coverage zones; on and in pocket for commute)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wearing clothes that are chilly to stand still in but comfortable for riding in after about 5 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;house key and u-bolt lock key&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sunglasses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of this attaches to the bike, the rest can fit in an under-the-saddle bag or some other kind of small bag attached to the bike. This is what I'd bring for a recreational ride anytime of year. So no actual pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Try to add to minimum, but don't always:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare tube and/or some patches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, if it's really cold outside it can be hard to patch.  Been lucky enough not to get a flat when it was that cold, but thinking I could still figure out how to get a flat dealt with wearing gloves (for part of it?), alternating between working on flat and sticking hands under clothes, or convincing a store to let me in, or with slow leak some repeated tire pumping to get somewhere and then fix flat...  Even huddling on the leeward side of an embankment would make a big difference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Usual:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Absolute minimum set, plus:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wallet (money, ID, medical insurance card, a couple payment cards, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;either a pannier that attaches to rack, or a small messenger bag that I'll bungee to the rack. Sometimes carry the small messenger bag, especially if it's dark out, since it's got retroreflective stuff and makes the rear blinky slightly less visible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One or two &quot;chico bags&quot; (nylon bag the size of a plastic grocery bag that folds up into itself to a size smaller than a tennis ball). If I stop in a store these are easier to jury-rig attach to rack with bungee cords than a typical grocery bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 spare tube inside of a sock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patches (in case of two flats)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multitool (that includes tire levers, several sizes of allen tool, chain tool, several sizes of wrench, screwdriver, knife)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some kind of snack (energy bar, granola bar, chocolate bar)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rain jacket (almost every day during the 5 months of wet season)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rain pants if there's any possibility of rain (I check first)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reflective ankle strap if bringing rain pants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;case for sunglasses, which includes alternate lens color choices&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scarf and wool cap (wool) if there's any chance of temp getting below 50F (10C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gloves&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If warm: normal fingerless cycling gloves with mesh back, padding on palm, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If cold: some wool fingerless gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If freezing cold: full-fingered wool gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hoody/sweatshirt/sweater/jumper/light jacket if temp below 40F (5C) or likely to drop below freezing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bungee cord or two. maybe a cargo net.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cable (attached to lock) for securing wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottle opener (it's on usual keyring, works as a prytool, flat screwdriver and a few sizes of metric wrench, too)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;work keys (either because riding to/from work, or because easier to just leave on keyring)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Full:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all the rest, plus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare batteries for lights. (battery for cell phone if I had it; keep meaning to get one of those)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;second multitool (different type, selection of bits including a bunch of allen bits, better knife, easier to do some stuff with this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;travel mug with some kind of hot beverage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;second water bottle in that hard to reach cage (I have 3 cages total). Possibly with some sort of beverage with a bit of sugar, like some watered down lemonade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;snack selection (or even a full lunch if timing looks right). usual bar-shaped foods, fruit, salame, some cut veggies, whatever I felt like putting together...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one of the other sets of gloves (a bit chilly now, so wear fingerless wool gloves, but might be riding home really cold so also bring full-fingered gloves)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a small towel if any chance of rain (dry off face and maybe hands if they get rained on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T18:54:46.473" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-14T18:54:46.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2529" CreationDate="2011-01-14T19:25:15.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Probably fine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bike (Surly LHT) with 700c wheels, wide tires (35mm) and full fenders (I think same model, but next size up).  The local buses have 2 or 3 different types of rack, and it works on all of them. On some of the 3-bike racks it's difficult to get the arm over the tire in the middle rack, but the fender isn't really a problem; usually I can just move it to the front rack if it happens to be one of those busses.  I think this problem might have more to do with maintenance, since with otherwise identical racks some the arm pulls out far enough and some it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One caveat: you have a choice between slowly damaging your fender by putting the arm over the fender, or possibly having a slightly less secure grip by putting it at the front tip of the fender.  On mine that bit of fender seems to be fine despite me smashing a bus rack arm on top of it frequently; worst case I could trim that off, since the bit of fender that sticks forward of the fork crown doesn't seem that essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the racks are designed to be able to handle the cruiser and commuter type bikes, and a road bike with fenders is a lot like that for these purposes.  There's a type of rack, but there's definitely some differences, so it's possible your bus bike racks are different somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T21:46:34.377" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T21:46:34.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2011-01-14T21:01:39.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might get into the habit of inspecting your bike before you take off.  I check the tires and the brakes every time I pull the bike off its rack.  Check your cages along with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mentally I classify water along with protective gear, probably giving it more weight than a helmet.  It isn't something that's merely nice to have because you're a little thirsty.  It's something that stops me from having a stroke in the heat (and cramps when I'm done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vaguely related.  I keep $2 on my bike so I can buy a bottle of water if I have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also place something in your cage that won't let you operate the bike after you get off it when you're done.  It's easy to remember your water bottle at the end, because you're thirsty.  Pick up the water bottle and place your pump or something in the cage so you have to pull it out and remember the water before you leave next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice though is to treat water with the importance is has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T21:01:39.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2528" CreationDate="2011-01-14T21:14:54.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flat bars have never been comfortable for me for long rides. Check out this link, Sheldon Brown talks a lot about posture to eliminate pain here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T21:14:54.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2536" CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:29:24.697" Score="5" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best place to buy bike components that will ship to Canada?  I would prefer a Canadian company or someone who ships within Canada to avoid large shipping costs and inport duty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am especially interested in buying used components.  Right now I am interested in buying: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some non-indexed bar end shifters for my road bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A mountain bike fork with disk breaks and no suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where would be the best place to look for this?  I have tried my local craigslist postings but these items are too specific.  I have also looked in my local bike shop but buying these parts new will cost more than buying an entire new bike.  I like to do most of my own work and being a student I have a fairly small budget.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where would you look for these parts?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-15T22:28:04.283" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T03:55:02.443" Title="Best place to shop for parts in Canada (used parts)" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;canada&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2535" CreationDate="2011-01-15T00:31:05.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PinkBike's Buy/Sell pages&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a site for hard-core bikers, there are always parts of various qualities and conditions up for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-01-15T05:51:14.740" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T05:51:14.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2488" CreationDate="2011-01-15T00:33:10.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fluorescent/Reflective clothing only help you if there is a light pointing at you from about the same direction as the driver is coming from.  The little light a fluorescent object will give out its self is not of any use as the car driver has the bright light from his/her headlights reflecting of the road just in front of his/her car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that most people get knocked of bikes from the side, with car drivers pulling out, rather than from the back, it is very likely you will be outside of the car’s headlights beam at the crucial time you most wish to be seen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So you need good lights!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However Fluorescent/Reflective clothing does help make you more visible and can make you show up a lot better in street lights.   It may also help you win the legal case if you knocked of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T00:33:10.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2381" CreationDate="2011-01-15T01:25:22.723" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very likely that you are putting too much stress on the frame when you are cycling due to your power stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took me a long time to train myself to avoid standing and powering the bike through the acceleration of starts, or even powering through it while sitting.  I've long since learned that while I have plenty of power, I actually am able to transmit it more effectively to the wheel using a faster cadence with lower power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to start out in lower gears so that it's easy to get up to 90rpm quickly (quickly, as in within dozens of feet, while you are still accelerating).  If you don't know your cadence, or have an easy way to measure it, the disco tune &quot;Stayin' alive&quot; is just over 100bpm.  There's a lot of other music you may be familiar with that is about 90bpm, you can do a google search for &quot;90bpm song&quot; and you'll find lists such as this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edenathletics.com/90bpm&quot;&gt;http://www.edenathletics.com/90bpm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The location of the stress fractures really suggests that you are standing up to push more power into the pedals.  If you are doing that, stop standing - road bicycle frames are not meant to take the pounding that this type of riding entails.  The standing position puts a tremendous amount of force on that particular joint, and the pedals are not long enough to really transfer that energy into the chain - you are wasting a lot of power flexing the frame.  It you are a fan of geometry and physics, imagine putting the frame on two stands where the wheel hubs are usually located.  Now place a bouncing 1/2 ton load on the bottom bracket.  You'll find the stress fractures are disturbingly similar to the ones you are experiencing - the two triangle shape of the frame will force the top tube and seat up, while the bottom bracket is forced down, leading to fractures in the seat tube.  If the seat tube is strong, you may instead fracture the chain stay on the chain side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer that riding style, however, then you'll have to settle for mountain biking frames, which are designed for powerful stroking techniques.  This is one of the reasons messengers often use mountain bikes - they are standing up a good portion of the time with very powerful strokes to accelerate in very short bursts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While spinning doesn't allow such high acceleration it is much more efficient in transferring energy from you to the forward motion of the bike.  And you can still stand up and accelerate if a situation calls for it, but doing it often is going to fracture your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T01:25:22.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2550" CreationDate="2011-01-15T18:46:42.680" Score="10" ViewCount="2844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just a set of summer tires in very poor condition and a huge heap of studded winter tires. Selling winter tires is very hard so I got an idea to use the winter tires as summer tires with removed studs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it a good idea and how should you remove studs without damaging the tire itself? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you use the tire afterwards as winter tire or will the studs become too loose? Any experience?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I fill the stud-positions with something if I remove the studs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The winter tires are W106 Nokian tyres, Hakkapeliitta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2020-11-18T14:27:19.057" LastActivityDate="2020-11-18T14:27:19.057" Title="Winter tires with removed studs as summer tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2543" CreationDate="2011-01-15T19:31:07.863" Score="5" ViewCount="4212" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/130/hydraulic-disc-brakes-maintenance&quot;&gt;Related question&lt;/a&gt;, I haven't bled the brakes (again a possible error).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the bike as second-hand and the seller said that the mineral oil cannot be the problem. He said that &lt;code&gt;the mineral oil in the brakes is one-year-old&lt;/code&gt; and his dealer instructed to buy a new bike (so I got mine 2-3 years old, driven 10k km). I cannot really trust the words so the rear brakes (no problem with front brakes) may have discolored oil, a thing to watch for according to Shimanos' &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_8ES0A_002/SI_8ES0A_002_En_v1_m56577569830616405.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt;. The caliper is &lt;strong&gt;Shimano BR-M485&lt;/strong&gt;, and apparently other parts are proper (not verified), original Crescent Sport bike brakes apparently (not verified). I haven't yet checked that the brake pads are over 0.5mm as instructed but I feel it is not the problem, speculating. So possible errors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not bleed the air from the brake system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;discolored oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not tighted some knob(?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too worn-out pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weather: perhaps some water in the tank and it freezes or oil vaporizing &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unknown factor (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why would you hydraulic brakes stop working in cold weather? The question is a bit confusing -- the problem started during cold winter and it persists in room temperature. I have earlier repaired inner hubs so is the procedure the same: break thing up to logical pieces and then follow Shimanos insructions or have you found better ways to repair broken hydraulic disk brakes? Again, the term &lt;code&gt;broken&lt;/code&gt; is ambigous, the brakes work in a way that you need to press a lot more but now they feel &lt;code&gt;loose&lt;/code&gt; (not with the front brake).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could someone explain what the term &lt;code&gt;bleeding&lt;/code&gt; here actually mean?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must I really use Shimanos' mineral oil and not some cheap substitute?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which minimum equipments are needed to repair|maintain the-brakes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips to maintain the disk-brakes on low budget welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T03:05:29.717" Title="Why would hydraulic disk-brakes become sluggish in cold winter? Just an incident or due to the cold?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2535" CreationDate="2011-01-16T13:49:28.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not 100% on topic, if you are in southern Ontario, consider the Toronto International Bike Show every year around the first few weeks of March.  (It usually conflicts with a half marathon in Burlington, Ontario, the Chili Half, so I often have done both!).  Usually it is in the CNE grounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a ton of local bike stores there trying to sell new stuff, but also clear out anything left in the store.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have gotten an excellent series of deals, year after year.  I now live in New Jersey near NYC, and I wish they had the equivalent here!  Alas, I have yet to find anything similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2011-01-17T02:34:38.710" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T02:34:38.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2540" CreationDate="2011-01-16T13:53:21.357" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydraulics are the same for car brakes, as for these style brakes, as anywhere else in the physical universe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liquids have an amusing property that they do not compress well, if at all.  (They do of course compress, but not very much in the grand scheme of things, and it takes a lot of pressure to noticeably compress them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus your hand started breaking force is transmitted direct to the brake, through the medium of the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fluid is getting viscous, due to cold weather, it might become thicker, and thus less responsive to your hand pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason to bleed air out of the system is that air compresses very nicely, thank you, unlike a liquid, and so destroys the hydraulic principle in use.   Bleeding in this context means to release any trapped air inside the hydraulic cylinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same as in car brakes.  First the air compresses, absorbing much of the energy being applied to brake, until finally the liquid starts to transmit the energy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-01-16T13:53:21.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3015" CreationDate="2011-01-16T21:33:16.810" Score="30" ViewCount="24835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Avid Elixir brakes on my mountain bike.  They are the only part of the bike that's a total black box to me.  I understand the principle behind disc brakes, and I understand the principle behind hydraulics.  I could draw a diagram of how this all goes together.  That said, I've been told that they automatically adjust for wear on the pads, so as the pads wear down, the braking action is the same.  Part 1 of the question: Is this true?  Part 2: How the heck does it work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T14:14:15.313" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T07:17:51.677" Title="How do self-adjusting hydraulic disc brakes work?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2285" CreationDate="2011-01-17T00:42:15.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with everyone's answers as well but over the years I have found myself using Trek's 7.5 fx hybrid bike as a do everything bike. It has mounts on it and everything you need for communting, touring, leisure rides, camping, gravel roads, and some other big bike events and riding in the median.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a Specialized road bike that I use for speed rides, windy days, and races and some touring.  I favor my hybrid for riding with the kids and friends that are not avid cyclists and do not have the endurance and speed. The only thing I hate about the road bike I use to scoot across town is I can't leave the asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="marty" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-17T14:57:27.873" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T14:57:27.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2540" CreationDate="2011-01-17T09:21:39.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be a problem of some product having been applied to the disk, for example: lubricant. If you lubed the chain, derailleur, hub or whatever and some of it went to the disk and not cleaned up properly. It can have damaged the brake pads and hence they not braking properly. If that was the case, the solution would be cleaning the disk and polishing or replacing the brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T09:21:39.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-17T17:30:28.593" Score="7" ViewCount="421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bike a lot and I'm looking to spend £400-800 on a full size bike. It must have full suspension, detachable front wheel, preferably room for a minipump and a large water bottle (without using the far bottom side of the frame). I see this is close to a discussion, but I think there are some obvious answers I'm overlooking. Bike or shop suggestions welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I commute (half off-road), use the canals, in-town and between-town roads, and a lot of off-roading. I would like to be able to manage my bike well, hopefully learn to do more than just replace tyres/tubes. It will occasionally be carried by car. I use bike lanes, pavements and the middle of the road fairly equally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How complex are softer drivetrains and disc brakes? I'm not familiar with either of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="999" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-22T21:09:09.883" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T21:09:09.883" Title="What should my first adult bike have?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-12-24T12:42:55.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2011-01-17T18:18:06.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even with lots of good advice, it takes a while to get to know what bike works best for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each person's &lt;strong&gt;body is different&lt;/strong&gt;, so getting a &lt;strong&gt;good fit&lt;/strong&gt; is difficult. And getting a good fit has a huge impact on the &lt;strong&gt;joy&lt;/strong&gt; of riding, which makes the difference between the ride you can't wait to start vs. the ride you talk yourself out of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with a &lt;strong&gt;used bike&lt;/strong&gt;. Look for one that has been stored out of the rain, and where the wheels don't wobble when you spin them. Get a tuneup right away, as there are a few safety and longevity issues with neglected bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the &lt;strong&gt;right frame&lt;/strong&gt; is the most important thing, as it affects everything else, and is the hardest to change. Once you have that, you can adjust the handlebars &amp;amp; seat to fine-tune the fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like a &lt;strong&gt;great drivetrain&lt;/strong&gt;. Smooth shifting under load is wonderful to ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not too picky about brakes, as long as they work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T18:18:06.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2539" CreationDate="2011-01-17T18:39:24.893" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the tire itself might or might not be intact after removing the studs, the tube inside the tire would suffer. Studs are installed by piercing the tire itself, and you'd have to patch the hole left by each stud or you'd have blowouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest selling the extra studded tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T18:39:24.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2552" CreationDate="2011-01-17T21:34:11.407" Score="13" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;p&gt;A representative in Oregon has recently &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.katu.com/news/local/113443114.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;introduced a bill&lt;/a&gt; that would prohibit children under the age of six from riding in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.katu.com/news/local/113848849.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bicycle trailers&lt;/a&gt;. While it is far too early to tell whether this bill will pass, and what the final law would look like if it did, I am curious what alternatives to bike trailers people can recommend. I don't have kids myself, but I grew up riding around in a bike trailer, and know people who do have children and use trailers like these. I am particularly interested in suggestions for families with multiple young children, since one reason my family loved bike trailers was because it could easily fit two of us at once. If this law were to pass, what alternatives would be available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T06:48:35.723" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T01:48:17.103" Title="Alternatives to trailers for transporting young children" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;children&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2551" CreationDate="2011-01-17T23:33:11.007" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Followed some links from your links and found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leg.state.or.us/11reg/measures/hb2200.dir/hb2228.intro.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the actual text of the law&lt;/a&gt;, which summarizes the law as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Prohibits person from carrying child&#xA;  under six years of age on bicycle or&#xA;  in bicycle trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elsewhere in Oregon law, a bicycle is defined as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[a human-powered vehicle] designed to travel with not more than three wheels in contact with the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a unicycle, bicycle and tricycle are all covered by the proposed law.  There's also a wheel-size provision in the definition, which makes me suspect that too small of wheels or 4 of them puts you in a category like skateboards that probably aren't allowed on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think you simply have no solution if that law passes as written. Everything I've ever seen for using a bicycle to transport a child constitutes &quot;on bicycle&quot; or &quot;in trailer&quot;.  Even if you devised some clever sidecar or push-cart mechanism to get around the letter of the law, I doubt that would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But just in case it's useful, there was an earlier question along these lines that I think covers all the answers you could be looking for: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/468/recommendations-for-transporting-twins-on-the-front-of-a-bike&quot;&gt;Recommendations for Transporting Twins On The Front of a Bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coolest option is a bucket bike (long wheelbase with a big box built in). Common in Netherlands, rare in the US.  Search for &quot;cargo bike&quot; in your area (I know there's bikes of this type made in Portland, OR)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next best is probably a long-tailed bike, such as an extracycle, especially if you can get seats designed for that use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's child seats that mount on a bike rack behind you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;child seats that mount on the handlebars in front of you (you could combine this one with any of the other options)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trailers are pretty darned good for carrying children.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T17:02:02.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2414" CreationDate="2011-01-18T01:30:41.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Taubes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gary Taubes&lt;/a&gt; makes a very &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIGV9VOOtew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reasonable argument&lt;/a&gt; that you can't &quot;exercise to lose weight&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or rather, that the conventional view that manipulating calories in through diet and calories out through exercise will cause you to gain or lose weight is not backed up by science. That is, while &quot;Energy in - energy out&quot; is true, it is not useful, as the cause of fat gain or loss is elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(He argues that carbohydrates in the diet are the &quot;true cause&quot; of fat gain, but this part of his argument is not as strong.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T01:30:41.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2011-01-18T05:51:05.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reflectors&lt;/strong&gt;: a red rear reflector can backup your rear light to keep you visible &amp;amp; legal on roads: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/pubs/cycling-guide/section5.0.shtml&quot;&gt;Ministry of Transportation’s cycling guide&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.e-laws.gov.on.ca/html/statutes/english/elaws_statutes_90h08_e.htm&quot;&gt;Highway Traffic Act&lt;/a&gt;.  (I can see when my front light loses power; Tail lights are trickier to observe when in motion.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For you, not the bike: &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;goggles&lt;/strong&gt; to protect eyes. My eyeglasses do not stop my eyes from tearing on cold days or fast rides. Weak sunglasses can help reduce the glare from oncoming headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org/Articles/Ottawa.htm&quot;&gt;Ottawa specific article at icebike.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="698" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T05:51:05.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2551" CreationDate="2011-01-18T09:01:34.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.christianiabikes.com/dansk/dk_main.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Christiania bikes&lt;/a&gt; from Denamrk, if they an be delivered where you live: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sfvUh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T09:01:34.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2011-01-18T09:06:25.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First make sure the child has some protection gear like helmet, knee/elbow guards (in my childhood I dit not have these, but the world has changed since :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then find a small slope so that the child does not have to pedal very hard, but can concentrate on balancing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Success!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2012-03-02T15:39:18.317" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T15:39:18.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2562" CreationDate="2011-01-18T11:50:47.620" Score="38" ViewCount="180932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take the front wheel off my mountain bike to get it in my car. When I get it out and try to put the front wheel back on, the space between the brake pads isn't wide enough for the rotor. Whoops! I must have pulled the lever on my hydraulic brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I separate the the pads without damaging them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T07:38:15.427" LastActivityDate="2020-07-24T01:17:30.467" Title="How do I separate hydraulic disc brake pads after pulling the brake while the wheel is off?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2011-01-18T14:35:21.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be patient, try to have fun.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then practice as much as you can, on any surface (kids don't hurt themselves the way adults do), any bike (that fits), any time. Just mind the traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I say: have fun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And get your camera ready).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T14:35:21.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2558" CreationDate="2011-01-18T14:53:31.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try blowing them with air to remove any dust particle that may prevent them for separating completely. If that's not enough you can use a &quot;flat&quot; screwdriver. When you have the screwdriver between the pads turn it carefully not to damage the brake pads and separate them a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T14:53:31.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2558" CreationDate="2011-01-18T16:35:00.277" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a (clean) drywall putty knife. The blade is wider than a screwdriver, so there's less chance of gouging the pads. Slide the knife in between the pads, twist and pry a bit, and they open right up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T16:35:00.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2558" CreationDate="2011-01-18T17:56:57.073" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned try a blunt bladed instrument (A large flat blade screwdriver will do) to pry the pads back in. Just put the screwdriver between the pads and lever the pads apart evenly! &#xA;Just be carful though as sometimes the pistons that push the pads out can come out too far resulting in the pistons being slighly out of line, however if the pads have plenty of material left on them you should be fine to just lever them back in with the screwdriver, ther will be some resistance as you will also be pushing against the pistons and fluid pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1003" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T17:56:57.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2011-01-18T18:46:02.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;£ so if you are in the UK, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/&quot;&gt;Edinburgh bike coop&lt;/a&gt; if there's one near you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely get disc brakes. Opinions on full suspension bikes differ - it used to be said that if your are spending less than $1000 don't get it. But I don't do extreme downhill so don't really know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most mountain bikers use camelbacks rather than water bottles because off road the bottles get covered in dirt (=cow shit) and you catch lurgy and die.  You can always add a water bottle holder later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T18:46:02.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2558" CreationDate="2011-01-18T21:05:05.663" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not as practical as some of the other solutions, but if you know a car guy, they've probably got brake pad spreaders laying around.  You should be able to get an edge or corner far enough in to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorUserId="349" LastEditDate="2013-12-06T12:34:44.883" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T12:34:44.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2011-01-18T22:23:00.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In that sort of environment I would be looking for minimal external parts - something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=dr_good&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;kona dr good?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T22:23:00.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2528" CreationDate="2011-01-18T23:26:56.323" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's not broken, don't fix it. The act of folding ourselves onto a bicycle, (especially one with any kind of aerodynamic advantage over a mountain bike) is not a natural-looking position for a human body. We're built to be more or less upright, which is not an aerodynamic position on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you're comfortable on your bike and feel like you're ok with the amount of wind-resistance you create for yourself, and your bike is properly sized for you, there's not much you'd really want to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of general bike position loose guidelines (yes, general and loose are a bit redundant here, but these are not hard fast rules):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you look down at your front hub while riding, you want it to be somewhere in the vicinity of being hidden by your handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For a commuter bike, you want to be able to look forward (with your head more or less erect) without feeling like you're craning your neck.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In said upright-head position, you shouldn't have to stretch for your handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your seat should be at a height such that your leg is mostly extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke, but you should &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have to rock your hips at all during the bottom of the pedal stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your seat should be situated fore/aft such that you can do the following:&#xA;a. Tie a weight on the end of a string.&#xA;b. Hold the non-weighted end of the string in the slight hollow on the outside front of &#xA; your knee.&#xA;c. The string should fall close to the spindle of your pedal when that pedal is at the &#xA; front of the stroke (3 or 9 o'clock, depending on how you look at it)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all these things hold more or less true, and you're comfortable when you ride, don't stress what you look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T23:26:56.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2011-01-19T00:06:14.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our children learned first to balance using a 2-wheeled push scooter, next step to a bike was easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T00:06:14.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2576" CreationDate="2011-01-19T03:26:29.510" Score="13" ViewCount="24327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older version of this bike: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CivQA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have made some changes to the components since I bought my bike but it is more or less the same.  Here are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eccyclesupply.com/k2bikes/index.php?page=bike_detail&amp;amp;cat_id=1&amp;amp;b_id=35&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;specs on the newer bike&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping to put a solid fork on my bike for the winter.  I want to keep the mountain feel and have lots of clearance for wide tires, etc but I want to get rid of the weight and give my fork a rest.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When choosing a solid fork what do I need to know?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will any solid fork fit onto my bike?  Do forks come in different sizes?  Different diameters?  Different lengths?  I heard something like you need a special fork if you are going to put it on a bike that was designed to be used with shocks.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know that I want a fork with disk break mounts so this makes the search slightly more difficult.  Ideally I would also like rack/fender mounts.  (For future touring).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My wheel size is 26 inches, what would happen if I used a 700c fork on my bike?  This seller claims thats what he was using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/list/?region=3&amp;amp;countryid=35&amp;amp;provid=7&amp;amp;category=10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this solid fork&lt;/a&gt; for. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the great information.  After reading I have been looking around for a used local fork.  I think that I found one possibility.  But any feed back would be appreciated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The fork was designed to be used with 700C or 29 inch wheels but it has an axel to crown length of roughly 17 inches (431 mm).  I currently have 100mm Travel in my suspension fork so &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2568/replacing-suspension-with-a-solid-fork/2576#2576&quot;&gt;Lantius says&lt;/a&gt; that I should get a fork with a length of 455 mm (17.9 inches).  Is this reasonable?  Does it matter if it was designed for a 700C tire if the fork length is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the picture of the fork the fork has &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; rake.  Is this a problem?  Will that amount of rake make the bike ride strangely/differently?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The steer tube/ headset size is 1 1/8th standard size which is the same as my bike so no concern there.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the fork: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xS2jI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5HBFx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T12:39:55.693" Title="Replacing suspension with a solid fork" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2568" CreationDate="2011-01-19T04:14:52.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did that with my Kona Dew FS (now no longer FS). The fork didn't like winters, and the gaskets or something blew. I just had the guys at the local bike shop dig around and see if they could find a rigid fork that would fit. They did. It did. Works great. (Bow Cycle in Calgary is fracking awesome, by the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="269" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T04:14:52.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2568" CreationDate="2011-01-19T08:13:43.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can not fit just any solid fork there, you have to compensate for the suspension part or riding on it will feel weird, the pedals will be closer to the ground (they'll be dangerous on turns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to make sure that axle to crown length stays the same:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlkra.gif&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-20T06:27:56.470" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T06:27:56.470" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2593" CreationDate="2011-01-19T11:43:24.230" Score="8" ViewCount="1082" Body="&lt;p&gt;In overheard in a post ride discussion this morning about wanting a set of compact cranks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My search on bicycles.se has only found &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1759/do-pros-use-compact-cranksets&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; with them in the title, but the answers don't mention exactly what they are.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they similar to the old biopace cranks? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T14:05:15.913" Title="What are compact cranks?" Tags="&lt;terminology&gt;&lt;compact-crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2571" CreationDate="2011-01-19T12:15:17.680" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;They probably weren't talking about the cranks per-se, but the whole crankset, which is the cranks and the chainrings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compacts are cranksets with smaller chainrings (typically 50 teeth and 34 teeth) as opposed to standard cranksets which have say 52:42. Combined with wide-range cassette this can give a good range of gears without having to have a triple-ring.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biopace were oval rings - you can get non-round chainrings for either compact or regular cranksets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the cranks themselves do come in different lengths to account for different leg-lengths, but this is independent of the chainring diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastEditorUserId="825" LastEditDate="2011-01-19T12:41:52.113" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T12:41:52.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2544" CreationDate="2011-01-19T14:59:41.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many high end hydraulic systems on bikes are very much the same design as the car &amp;amp; motorcycle variety. However there are cheaper cable/hydraulic type brakes for cycles avalable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in the fully hydraulic system is that the fluid within the system is put under pressure by you pulling on the lever, but the fluid and the system itself will not 'give' under this pressure as it is a pressure resistant system, apart from one part, the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok so.. Attached to this lever your pulling is what's called the master cylinder, this compresses the brake fluid in the system at the lever end, and forces it (in a small quantities) down the brake hose to the caliper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the master cylinder, brake hose and caliper are already full of fluid the fluid only has a couple of options.. It can try to expand into any gaps, or it can escape through any holes. However this is a safe braking system so we have no leaks and our fluid is trapped in our sealed environment :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok.. The only place the fluid can actually move to, then expand in, is the calipers small chambers, these are located behind the caliper pistons and if the system has been bled properly should already be filled with fluid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each piston is fitted with fluid resistant rubber seals, each piston also floats inside the caliper, on these seals. The seals are very important as they not only help to stop dust/dirt entering the caliper and allow the caliper to float freely, but they also seal the fluid inside the caliper whilst withstanding the high braking pressures within the brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In front of each piston is what you can see when you look down at the disk. You'll see the disk itself, the pads, and if you remove the pads you'll see the front end of the pistons. Now as you know behind each piston is the brake fluid, this is the brake fluid your are trying to make expand by pulling on the lever. Still with me? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing this fluid that your pressurising (by pulling the lever) can do, is try and expand into the small chambers behind the caliper pistons which in turn pushes on the back of the pistons forcing them outwards, and against the rear of the pads. The pads then react in the same way and are forced outwards trying to squash the disc! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is usualy no need for adjustment because as the pads wear down, the fluid just fills the remaining gap in the chambers behind the pistons. Although some brake systems do have an adjustment knob/screw on the master cylinder for adjustment purposes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1003" LastEditorUserId="1003" LastEditDate="2011-01-19T15:12:50.670" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T15:12:50.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2571" CreationDate="2011-01-19T15:58:58.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a crankset that allows the use of smaller chainrings e.g 110mm rather than the more common 130 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_cn-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_cn-z.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1003" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T15:58:58.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2042" CreationDate="2011-01-19T22:32:37.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this might have really been a question about 650, I am going to answer if from perspective of why use 650B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;650B is common in Randonneur style bike, currently one of the more popular types of bikes being requested in the handmade bicycle market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;650B allows the use of 42 width tires with full fenders, big tires even at low pressure with 650B become about same size total diamteter as 700's with typical racing widht high pressure tires 25 width for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;650B rando bike with compact crank designed for front load carrying may the fastest overall bike for practical use, see Bicycle Quarterly magazine for detailed analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="580" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T22:32:37.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2568" CreationDate="2011-01-20T01:29:19.917" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you've sorted out the first issue, headset size.  You'll need something with a  1 1/8&quot; (also seen as 1.125&quot; or 9/8&quot;) steerer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bicycle's handling is based on the geometry. Changing the axle-to-crown distance will change the angle of your head tube, altering your bicycle's handling significantly.  The other major characteristic of a fork is &quot;rake&quot;, or the distance that the axle is in front of an imaginary line down the center of the steerer.  Within 5-10mm of rake change you should notice a fairly minimal effect on the bike's handling, which is good because suspension fork rake is rarely published and measuring it directly is difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The axle-to-crown distance is one factor, to get that right - assuming your bike has an equivalent fork - you should be looking for a &quot;100mm suspension-corrected&quot; rigid fork.  In practice this means a fork with an axle-crown distance of about 455mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a 100mm suspension corrected, 26&quot; wheeled fork with disc brakes that &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; has rack (I'm assuming you mean midfork low-rider rack mounts) and fender mounts, your options list is relatively limited.  The new &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/troll_fork/&quot;&gt;Surly Troll Fork&lt;/a&gt; is likely to be one of your few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T01:29:19.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2011-01-20T03:13:24.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this would be ideal for the purpose listed. Audio is vibrated to the ear with bone conductance. Not sure how good they are but they do fit the bill for rockin while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.neatoshop.com/product/Audio-Bone-1-0-Headphones-Black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.neatoshop.com/product/Audio-Bone-1-0-Headphones-Black&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T03:13:24.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2011-01-21T03:26:20.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Biologic&lt;/a&gt; now makes an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/bike-mount-iphone-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iPhone 4 specific mount&lt;/a&gt;. I have the 3 version that I use an iPhone 4 in.  It's pretty decent, but this looks like they've made some good improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/waanZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1012" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T17:15:42.873" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T17:15:42.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2512" CreationDate="2011-01-21T03:33:35.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't work for everyone, but in my area I can take it on the train, taxi or just walk it home. One of the advantages of having a small folder and living in a dense area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1012" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T03:33:35.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2581" CreationDate="2011-01-21T03:54:23.527" Score="11" ViewCount="1062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a hybrid human/electric bicycle at a garage sale, and I've been working on getting it into usable shape again. It is about 10 years old, and needs some work. The battery was quite dead in it, so I've replaced it, it also needs a new tire, which I'm going to take care of soon. What else should I do to get the bicycle in good working condition again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT Here's a few pictures, let me know if there's any other area of the bike I can get a few shots to help you guys help me. Thanks for the tips so far! The brand is Lafree, I can't tell a model, it's around 10 years old, if that helps...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/27BdE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Full_shot_1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s0Vk1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Full Shot 2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LuKEX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-30T18:14:47.063" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T20:06:10.620" Title="What should I do to get an older bike into good condition" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2011-01-21T06:09:56.627" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a bit of work on old, neglected bikes at our local community bike shop. It's rewarding to bring a forgotten bike back to life. There are usually a lot of things that can be improved, so it's important that you prioritize carefully. Fix the most important things, get riding, and then fix the rest as you go along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't told us much about your specific bike, so I'm going to write generically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;bearings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to do when reviving an old bike is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;take care of the bearings&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally bikes have bearings in 5 places:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rear hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;freewheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottom bracket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;headset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If bearings are too tight or too loose, they will will crack and chip. The rough edges will cut in to the races, and you'll have to replace them. In the case of wheels, that can mean a new hub, which can mean a new wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The freewheel is difficult to check, and less likely to need immediate care, but the other 4 deserve immediate attention. Check that they turn easily, without much resistance and without a &quot;gritty&quot; or &quot;notched&quot; feeling. Headsets are particularly susceptible to notching at dead center. Also check for play in the bearings. If you try to rotate against the axis of a bearing, there shouldn't be any play, or maybe a very tiny amount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike has been neglected, especially if it was left out in the rain or ridden in the rain and not serviced, you should overhaul these bearings. Basically, you open them up, throw out the old bearings, clean the races (the paths the bearings roll in), fill with fresh, clean grease, insert new bearings, reassemble, and adjust to be &quot;just tight enough&quot;. While you're in there, it's a good idea to examine the races to ensure they are smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;cables&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pop out the brake and shifter cables from the control levers. Slide the housings back and forth over the cable. Look for rust, frayed wire, and sharp kinks. Any are signs that you should replace the cable, but if the wear is light, you can get away with deferring that replacement. For now, drop some graphite- or teflon-based lube in to the housings, and slide them back and forth to spread it out. Avoid getting lube on the rims, where the brakes need to grab well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;brakes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes are the most important piece of safety equipment. Ideally the brake pads hover close to the rims, but don't rub. Pads are clean, as are rims. Brake action is smooth and easy. Both pads contact the rim at the same time, and are centered on the rim's braking surface. They especially don't hang off the inside (where they could pop off the edge and jam) or the outside (where they will rub the tire and cause a blowout). When you release the brake levers, the brakes quickly snap to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need the wheels true before you can reach brake Nirvana. (See below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now, just make sure that both brakes work - that you can stop in a hurry with either one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;drivetrain&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike has been neglected, your chain is probably rusty, and will need to be replaced. If it's ridable, then &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1696/how-do-i-lubricate-my-chain&quot;&gt;clean and lubricate&lt;/a&gt; it carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examine the wear on the chain and the front and rear gears. As chains age and stretch, they place force unevenly on the gears, which causes them to wear to match. If you then put a new chain on old gears, the chain will wear out before its time. Similarly, new gears with an old chain will wear fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chain is mildly worn and the gears are healthy, replace the chain now. If the chain and gears are both very worn, you can keep riding, but plan to replace both soon. They may slip under heavy loads, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy way to check the health of a chain is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-wear-indicator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool Chain Wear Indicator CC-3&lt;/a&gt;. Keep one of these on hand so you can check your chain regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that the gears shift smoothly under load, and the chain doesn't try to come off the gears when you shift to the shortest and tallest gears. You'll need healthy shifter cables before you adjust these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;wheels&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When wheels are neglected or abused, they will go out of true, go out of round; the rims will get bent or dented; the spoke tension will be uneven, making the wheel weaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is evaluate the state of the wheel. You'll need well-adjusted hubs to do this. Spin the wheel and watch the gap between the rim and the brake pad closely. If the gap stays pretty constant, you're in luck. If it wiggles, you have work to do. Spin the wheel again, and let a screwdriver or your fingernail bump in to each spoke. Listen to the sound. If the pitch jumps around, spoke tension is uneven. Listen to good, new, hand-built wheels to teach your ears what to listen for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you're not going to true your wheels yourself, it's a good idea to lubricate the nipples now. Give the oil some time to work in now, so a mechanic has an easier time with truing later. Put a drop of oil in the crevice between the nipple and the spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check your tires. Look for cracking in the rubber, wear in the sidewall, and depth of tread. If you can see threads anywhere, you're close to a blowout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pump the tires up to somewhere in their rated range. Personally I like the lower end of the range, but each person is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;miscellany&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stand over the front wheel and grab it tightly with your legs. Try to turn the handlebar. It shouldn't budge. Try to rotate the handlebars in the stem; it also shouldn't budge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the seat tube out and make sure there's some &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2350/should-i-oil-my-seat-post&quot;&gt;grease on it&lt;/a&gt;, so it doesn't try to fuse in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the wheels off and put them back on, and make sure you know how to use quick release properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T06:09:56.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2587" CreationDate="2011-01-21T13:13:31.513" Score="10" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a runner. I run half and full marathons along the year. All of the runners know that they should cross train and the best cross training is cycling. After achieving my long term marathon goal I will try to run triathlons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I need some bicycle workouts or full programs for training. Are there any specific workout types for cycling as cross training?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T05:23:30.577" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T05:23:30.577" Title="What are good bicycle workouts for a runner?" Tags="&lt;exercise&gt;&lt;cross-training&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2586" CreationDate="2011-01-21T13:57:13.927" Score="40" ViewCount="21270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that it's a best practice in a car to change all 4 tires if you change 1, although in practice, it's only done if 3 need to be changed. Does the same thing hold true of a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="2331" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T16:35:23.030" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T16:35:23.030" Title="Should I change both tires when I need to change one?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:45:43.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it's unnecessary except for rare circumstances (some racers may find it necessary).  Front and rear do not wear at the same rate, getting a similar performing (or even the same exact model tire) is easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's become a best practice for cars because by the time you need new tires, they don't make the same model anymore.  Mismatched tread patterns and grip levels (different rubber compound or even aged vs. new rubber) can make rain/snow handling a little squirrelly, so it's just safer to replace them all.  Also, if you rotate them, they should wear at about the same rate anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorUserId="349" LastEditDate="2011-03-04T20:30:27.170" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T20:30:27.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:59:09.680" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to have equal tires on both wheels. In fact, great setup for XC racing would be using Schwalbe Rocket Ron on front and Racing Ralph on back. These tires have a bit different tread patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, do not make this mistake - do not put your slightly worn tire on front, just replace the rear tire. It is very important to have grip for the front tire, as it is possible to correct your mistake, if rear tire slips, but slipped front tire mostly means a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T15:59:09.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2011-01-21T19:32:21.543" Score="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a car, the weight distribution is relatively even and you tend to get a relatively even wear, so that if 2 or 3 tires are obviously ready for replacement, you probably just can't tell that the others are ready. I suspect that also having 1 tire with a different amount of tread wear than the other tires on a car will lead to an unbalanced configuration that causes tires to wear out faster. (especially a left-right imbalance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bicycle, the rear tire gets more weight on it than the front and will generally wear out more quickly.  By as much as 3:1. Because of this, and other reasons, some people will even use a totally different tire on front than on the back.  (could have the narrower tire on the front or on the back, depending on what you want to achieve)  &lt;strong&gt;On a bicycle, it's perfectly fine if one tire has worn down to being effectively smaller than the other.&lt;/strong&gt;  You will never notice if the bike is &quot;leaning&quot; a millimeter or two forward or back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear also tends to pick up more thorns/nails/screws/glass than the front, so there's also that reason the rear may need to be replaced sooner. The usual theory I've heard is that the front tire knocks the sharp things into a point up configuration in time for the rear tire to catch them, but I strongly suspect that it's more about weight distribution: the tire with more weight has a bigger contact patch and will push down harder on something it rolls over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overuse of the rear brake instead of learning to use the front brake properly can cause the rear to wear out even quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also don't want to rotate your tires between front and back.  That's something suggested with some cars, I think because you tend to wear the front &lt;em&gt;differently&lt;/em&gt; than the back and can get a longer life that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're using the same type of tires on the front and the back, and it's the rear tire that's being replaced, you probably want to move the front to the back, and put the new tire on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You always want your best tire on the front.&lt;/strong&gt;  A blowout in the rear is scary and inconvenient, but a blowout on the front is very likely to lead to a crash.  You also need the traction on the front for stopping much more than you need traction on the rear for acceleration. (and because your weight shifts forward as you stop, you just can't get very much traction on the rear for stopping)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T19:32:21.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2582" CreationDate="2011-01-21T20:23:26.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the same way you train for your running you'll likely want to vary the rides you do on your bike.  Bicycles offer you the same options like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tempo ride: stay just below your lactate threshold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interval training&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a long flat section of road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go above your LT for a bit, then a little below for a bit (stay above 70% of LT)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many times this is 1 minute &quot;on&quot;, 2 minutes &quot;off&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eventually you'll want longer intervals of 5 minutes &quot;on&quot;, 8 minutes &quot;off&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find some terrain&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My personal favorite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bikes cover so much distance while training that you can just pick different routes and go&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain biking&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The terrain is constantly forcing you up and down, you're performing dynamic moves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You max your HR, then coast, then jump a log, the 5 quick intervals over hills, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slogging away miles on a bike probably wouldn't translate across sports as well as you'd like so I see your best benefit to come from strengthening and just plain having fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="240" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T20:23:26.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2582" CreationDate="2011-01-21T20:25:53.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that it isn't much that cycling has over running if you already are an accomplished runner but it does have it benefits. cross training would definitely help get over plateaus and would also add an element of fun into your training. hill climb rides would help stretch your endurance and give your quads a good burn. as mentioned, a cycling club would inject some social aspects into it and also some gear envy would add some spice into the mix. of course with cycling, theres always a dash of bike porn rattle it up just that wee bit more :)       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T20:25:53.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="716" CreationDate="2011-01-21T20:32:01.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just throwing out something I found - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpdTKzgoVGk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpdTKzgoVGk&lt;/a&gt;. my apologies if this missed the mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T20:32:01.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2597" CreationDate="2011-01-22T01:13:01.077" Score="14" ViewCount="1620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to buy a new front tire for my new e-bike. Let me give you a few of the conditions I'll be riding in, and I'd like your advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, this bike is primarily going to be used to commute to work. I live near an airport, and my work is on the other side of the airport. The consequence of that is that I have to ride 5 miles along a 55 mph road. It doesn't have a bike lane, but there is a large path of gravel right next to the road, which I will most likely use extensively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also say that I would like an affordable tire, but I am willing to invest more in a tire that will last me for longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to see my bike, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2580/what-should-i-do-to-get-an-older-bike-in-good-condition&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. It's pretty obvious that the front tire is quite flat, and in fact, it just needs to be replaced...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here's a few pictures of the current tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c4vne.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Near_Top&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5k7s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T08:15:29.210" Title="What kind of tires should I buy for an e-bike, commuting on maintained off-road?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2596" CreationDate="2011-01-22T10:33:12.080" Score="43" ViewCount="70597" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear rim brakes are squeaking loudly. I don't know what the problem is, but I am sure it has nothing to do with rain because it happens all the time even if it is dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody have an idea what could be problem and how to solve it? It makes the rear brakes kind of useless, because if I use them I will scare the people or drivers around me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="967" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T18:47:09.580" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T18:01:48.850" Title="How do I make my rim brakes stop squealing?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2590" CreationDate="2011-01-22T14:41:39.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has the tyre perished? Perhaps, it's just an inner tube that needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the tyre to your local bike shop and I'm sure they'll be able to suggest a suitable alternative. I'd ask for a plain road tyre, something pretty standard should do, just as long as it's the correct size. You don't need nobbly or off-road tyres unless you're trying to get over obstacles such as rocks or travel through mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T14:41:39.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2571" CreationDate="2011-01-22T15:01:24.237" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 size aspects to a crankset (and, of course, lots of variations between product lines as far as materials, color, price, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The length of the crankarms, usually around 170mm +/- 2.5mm increments--these are the same with both normal and compact cranksets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The diameter of the bolt circle to attach the chainrings--compact are 110mm, regular are 130mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of teeth on the chainrings (and this is the whole reason for a compact crankset, to allow smaller chainrings).  Most compact cranksets are sold with 34-tooth and 50-tooth rings (referred to as 50x34), whereas most regular cranksets are currently sold with 53x39 combinations.  You can also purchase other chainrings, but those are by far the most common.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="328" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T15:01:24.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2551" CreationDate="2011-01-22T17:19:26.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been pretty happy with a connector piece between my bike and a small kid's bike.  I even did two cycling holidays with it.  The brand I used was &quot;follow me&quot; which made for a particularly solid connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pictures (spiced up with unreadable Dutch text): &lt;a href=&quot;http://reinout.vanrees.org/ligfiets/follow-me.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reinout.vanrees.org/ligfiets/follow-me.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1010" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T17:19:26.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2011-01-22T17:44:13.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's sounds like you're committed to a full suspension bike. But, I worry you won't find a quality bike for that price range, and you may end up with a heavy bike that will be a drag when you're on the road. You can get a good quality hard-tail for that price range that might suit you well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could consider the Boardman Team Mountain Bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_501999_langId_-1_categoryId_165499&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_501999_langId_-1_categoryId_165499&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They've got a full suspension version, but that'll take you over your £800 limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T17:44:13.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2591" CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:30:11.450" Score="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;Squealing can be reduced by &quot;toe-in&quot; - making the front part of the brake pad touch first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out Park Tool's instructions on servicing side-pull brakes: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/dual-pivot-brake-service&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/dual-pivot-brake-service&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Squealing is the result of a harmonic resonance from a slip-and-stick phenomenon, similar to how a violin bow resonates on a string. The brake pads grab the rim and are pulled forward by the force of the wheel. The arms must at sometimes jerk backwards, but if you are still braking, the arms are flexed forward again. This is repeated again and again many times per second, and this creates the squeal. Because of this, flexible and less expensive arms tend to squeal more than stiff calipers of better brakes. It is possible to reduce squeal by having the leading edge of the brake pad strike first. This tends to reduce the back and forth jerking of the arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before you go trying to toe-in, make sure you're working with parts in good shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Examine your brake pads&lt;/strong&gt;. If they are old and hard, worn deeply, or full of junk, replace them. Otherwise, use coarse sandpaper to take off the surface to bring out fresh rubber. You only need to take off a tiny bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean your rims&lt;/strong&gt;. Road grime, bike lubes, and brake material all collect on your rims. Rubbing alcohol, vinegar, Simple Green, a product marketed as &quot;degreaser&quot; can all work. Don't let any get on the drivetrain or in the hubs. Also, you'll need rags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;True your wheels&lt;/strong&gt;. There's no point in trying to adjust brakes on a wheel that isn't true (round and dished is good, too). And you can't true a wheel if the hubs aren't in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="29754" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T16:44:55.603" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T16:44:55.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2590" CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:43:01.620" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, the softer the ground, the bigger the tire should be. A fat tire will let you &quot;float&quot; over the surface instead of sinking in, like a snowshoe. If you're sinking, it takes tremendous effort to keep riding, and you can't really steer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/q/2747/80&quot;&gt;Gravels vary widely&lt;/a&gt;. Coarse-edged crushed rock locks together to create a firm, traffic-bearing surface. Round-edged &quot;pea gravel&quot; shifts under load, dispersing energy - this is good under playground equipment. There are different sizes, and some are mixed while others are consistently-sized. Which one you're on will have an effect on what kind of tire you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to choose the fattest tire that works well in my frame / under my fenders. I avoid knobbies because I think they have way higher rolling resistance and wear out faster. Since you're already hauling a battery, you can definitely afford the weight of the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you ever find yourself in ground that's too loose and you can't steer, shift your weight back. Unweighting the front wheel will let it steer without sinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:22:17.377" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T18:43:01.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2591" CreationDate="2011-01-22T19:17:00.287" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jay's answer covers most of it and you should start with his suggestions (toe-in and greasy rims are big culprits).  I'll only add two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake pad type can sometimes make a difference.  Kool-stop &quot;salmon&quot; pads are widely recommended to reduce problematic squeals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some bike setups are more prone to squealing, even with clean rims, new salmon pads and perfectly aligned brakes.  It's very unusual but I had this problem on a previous bike (V-brakes on a carbon fork).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T19:17:00.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2011-01-24T06:03:40.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allow for cool down time once you get to your destination.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always found that when I'm actually rolling I never feel that hot or sweaty, but as soon as I stop at my destination and don't have the wind on me anymore - BAM! - I'm sweating like a pig.   Not a good look when you are about to start work.  So I always try to arrive 10 minutes early so I have a chance to cool down and stop sweating.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your destination doesn't have air conditioning, it's sometimes worth stopping at the nearest place that DOES have air conditioning (shops, library, highrise building foyer, etc) to sit quietly for 5 min to cool down. Then ride nice and easy to your final destination looking fresh and clean ; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T06:03:40.503" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-24T06:03:40.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2011-01-24T10:23:03.863" Score="8" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Track Standing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(thanks to @zingdon for what its called)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I practice repeatedly at all traffic lights is balancing without putting your feet on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It improves balance which can prevent a crash if you ever get knocked slightly e.g. clipped by a wing mirror or hit an unsuspected pot-hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For learning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake until you come to a standstill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn the handlebars slightly to one side (so that you don't roll straight forward)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stand up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedal cranks must be horizontal - i.e. both feet at the same height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;feather the front brake so that you move a little if you're losing your balance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;its possible to move the bike backwards slightly by tugging against the handlebars when you feather the brake - so you can rock too and fro.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;watch others at red lights who are doing it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1020" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T12:12:55.920" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2011-01-24T23:18:16.487" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Learn to use your ears.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that my ears were one of my most valuable assests when riding in traffic.  Being able to tell what is going on around you without having to constantly turn your head to look just means you are more aware and therefore safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T23:18:16.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2604" CreationDate="2011-01-25T06:48:54.793" Score="4" ViewCount="1514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get back on my bike after some failed attempts at recovery from a herniated disk (PT's told me to stop riding but I just got worse anyway so now I'm trying to come back).  I bought an upgrade to my magnetic trainer - a nice fluid one that's supposed to give better training, or so I heard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've been laying in the low gears and just keeping cadence high.  Everything was fine, nice smooth ride.  I can go 20-40 minutes just fine like that.  But if I try to push myself a little bit by increasing the gear speed the trainer suddenly hits a wall and starts vibrating.  It's really loud, like those buzz strips on the side of the road.  Starts to pedal like I'm riding through snow or mud.  I also have to tighten down the contact bar thing pretty tight to keep the tire from just squeeking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I do this it pretty much kills the workout.  Even dropping back down a gear or two doesn't make it go away.  It's like the fluid gets too hot or something and it just doesn't perform as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal for a fluid trainer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further attempts to find the correct google incantations yielded some other people complaining about the same thing wrt the trainer I have, a Blackburn Tech Fluid.  Still interested in more knowledgeable answers though...sometimes people just complain and don't know wtf they're talking about.  Descriptions are very much like what I'm experiencing though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002RQJTXY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-2016647-Tech-Fluid-Trainer/product-reviews/B002RQJTXY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon" LastEditorDisplayName="anon" LastEditDate="2011-01-25T07:11:44.360" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T07:23:35.407" Title="Vibration in fluid trainer - OK?" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2603" CreationDate="2011-01-25T07:23:35.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That doesn't sound good...  My fluid trainer has a pretty steady increase in resistance as I gear up.  The noise also increases steadily with resistance.  But there is no &quot;wall&quot;.  Vibration isn't really noticeable while on the bike either.  It's normal for the fluid to heat up quite a bit -- it's what absorbs much of the energy you're putting out -- and the fins on the casing can get hot enough to burn after a long workout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you get it checked out by the shop you bought it from?  The fact that your tire is slipping sounds like something might be wrong with the unit (could also be the tire skipping on the roller that causes the noise/vibration?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T07:23:35.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1644" CreationDate="2011-01-25T07:27:16.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to submit large amounts of data, you might be able to do it using their &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/help/maps/basemap/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Base Map Partner Program&lt;/a&gt;. I haven't tried this myself. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1736/do-i-have-to-simply-wait-for-google-maps-to-add-cycling-directions-to-my-area-or/2606#2606&quot;&gt;my answer to the question &quot;Do I have to simply wait for google maps to add cycling directions to my area? Or can I help?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T20:25:35.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1736" CreationDate="2011-01-25T07:30:24.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;report a problem&quot; feature can be used to suggest minor corrections. Once I tried getting bike directions and they gave me a very indirect route. I reported the problem and they fixed it within a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For larger amounts of data, you may have some luck with Google's &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/help/maps/basemap/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Base Map Partner Program&lt;/a&gt;. It can be used to send them data in standardized formats such as KML or CSV. They claim to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/support/mapcontentpartners/bin/answer.py?hl=en&amp;amp;answer=160418&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;currently accepting &quot;bicycle and pedestrian paths&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, among other things. I haven't tried it myself. If I ever try it, I will report on the results here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastEditorUserId="385" LastEditDate="2011-01-30T20:24:40.067" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T20:24:40.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2613" CreationDate="2011-01-25T12:53:20.773" Score="30" ViewCount="98042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a vintage Campagnolo road bike, so the shifters are on the down tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a mountain bike and i am used to changing gears on that one, but don't know the proper technique to change on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am concerned about the technique (which hand to use, how do you keep the other on the handlebar)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how do you know to shift in the correct position without an indexed shifter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;other tips and tricks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r5xIk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T00:57:24.413" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T05:39:01.107" Title="How do I efficiently shift gears on a road bike with downtube shifters?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2607" CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:56:57.130" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Downtube shifters can be hard to get used to. When I first used them (after having more experience with on handlebar shifters) I would feel a bit wobbly when trying to shift. It really just takes practice. If they are not indexed (click into gear) then just push the lever (up or down) until the gear changes. If there is some chain rattle, then adjust until it goes away. After a while it will be second nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1028" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T16:56:57.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2607" CreationDate="2011-01-25T18:59:35.663" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not much too it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reach down, move the lever until it's in the gear you want and adjust so there is no chain rattle. You'll get the hang of it quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T18:59:35.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2011-01-25T19:36:15.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wintercyclist.com/2009/02/bicycle-setup.html&quot;&gt;Bike Setup suggestions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that the above are intended as a guide for cold weather riding conditions (which are generally dry) and may not work for warmer (above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a summary of the recommendations on that site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lights (plural)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Winterize the 'freehub body' (the freehub is the part which engages in one direction and spins in the other direction: the author has seen these freeze in temperatures as high as 25F)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lube the hub and other bearings: bottom bracket, pedals, and (maybe) the headset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get 'poagies' which look like a kind of hood or overglove for each hand which fit onto the handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't use suspension, it will just freeze. Carbon (forks, bars, seatpost) are OK though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires, maybe studded tires for ice, you'll fall on ice without them; maybe wider rims (and, with some caveats about using glue between the tire and the rim, lower tire pressure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1029" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-03-02T21:11:52.950" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T21:11:52.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2591" CreationDate="2011-01-25T19:58:57.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The above answers cover the critical information, but I'd add that some brakes make &quot;toe in&quot; adjustment easy (offset washers, or other means). Some brakes require that you bend/twist the arms. For the latter, I'd recommend your local bike shop mechanic... if for no other reason that brakes are important safety equipment, and are therefore worth being looked at by a pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1031" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T19:58:57.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2011-01-25T20:07:13.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while it is unnecessary, it could depend in part on where and for what reason you ride your bike. If you rely on your bike as a commuter, you might want to be more certain of the reliability of both tires than if you are riding for fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's more to it than simply whether one tire needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1031" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T20:07:13.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2607" CreationDate="2011-01-25T20:27:05.153" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Downtube shifters will really get you in touch with your bike--more than with many other shifting systems, I believe that I can actually FEEL the rear derailleur moving in my hand when I use them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, I ride a lot of old road bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will quickly gain the control to shift either from various hand positions on your road bars.  Assuming the bike fits you, you should ultimately be able to use the shifters from nearly any position.  You will, of course, use the right hand to shift the rear derailleur and the left hand to shift the front.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will talk mostly about shifting the rear derailleur, as it will require the most control and finesse.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that these shifters each have two main parts that are pertinent here, the LEVER and the BARREL.  The lever is pretty obvious--it's the usually-flattened handle that sticks out.  The barrel is the round bit which is attached to the frame.  The cable wraps around this round bit--as you turn the shifter, more or less cable is wrapped which is how the shifter moves the cable and thus the derailleur.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ordinarily, when I reach down and the bike is in high gear--with the shift lever all the way forward and parallel with the downtube--I will grasp the lever by wrapping &lt;strong&gt;the thumb of my right hand over the end of the shift lever&lt;/strong&gt;.  I press the side of my pointer finger against it and slowly pull back.  This motion has less control over precise gearing and is best suited for quickly downshifting before climbing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am already in low gear and the shifter is out away from the downtube, I usually actually &lt;strong&gt;grasp the entire lever&lt;/strong&gt; with my right hand.  In this mode, the tip of my thumb is on the barrel and my fingers are all wrapped around the shift lever.  Motion in either direction from this position can be very precise.  As I said, you can feel the derailleur move if you're cables are new and well-greased.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good setup for shifters, in my opinion.  I can't say that I prefer downtube to integrated, but as far as simplicity is concerned... nothing beats it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except, perhaps, Sheldon Brown reaching down and putting his forefinger on the chain to move from upper to lower chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a chance at the library, check out &lt;em&gt;Understanding, Maintaining, and Riding the Ten-Speed Bicycle&lt;/em&gt; by Denise De la Rosa and Michael Kolin (Rodale Press, 1979).  This book describes shifting and using downtube shifters rather well, right down to the groovy 70's costume.  De la Rosa describes another method of hanging the thumb (I think) off of the top tube while reaching with the same hand's fingers down to the shift lever.  This only would work on a frame smaller than mine, but it's another piece of cycling history.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.  It certainly took my mind off my work for a few minutes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-25T23:59:13.967" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T23:59:13.967" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:58:05.130" Score="8" ViewCount="21487" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suddenly (without anything &lt;em&gt;sounding&lt;/em&gt; like it was broken) the chain no longer turns the back wheel. The cogged part of the wheel is turned by the chain but this doesn't turn the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I can fix? I can't see a problem but I haven't started to try to take anything apart yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note this is a child's bike so there isn't much value in the bike or its parts. Just wondering whether or not to send this bike to the skip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1032" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T09:31:17.073" Title="If the chain/cog no longer drives the wheel, can this be fixed?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2615" CreationDate="2011-01-26T09:31:17.073" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are four main possibilities, depending on the quality and age of bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely scenario is that the wheel is a traditional kid's coaster brake wheel - one gear forward, pedal backwards to brake.  In that case it's likely that the clutch is slipping inside the hub. A replacement wheel is probably an easy find, even more so than replacement parts, since kids have a tendency to outgrow their bikes rapidly.  If you're feeling wrenchy however, you can take a look here at an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.troubleshooters.com/bicycles/1speed/1speed_overhaul.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;extremely detailed teardown and explanation&lt;/a&gt;.  You won't need any particularly special tools other than thin wrenches, preferably real cone wrenches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wheel is on a nicer bike with hand brakes you'll be looking at either a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;freewheel or freehub&lt;/a&gt; design.  If it's a freewheel then you've got two possible culprits: you've stripped all the threads off (unlikely) or the pawls are frozen or broken.  In the former case, you'll need to replace the whole wheel.  In the latter, you'll probably just want to replace the freewheel outright - repairing them is annoying.  Replacing it will need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools/freewheel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;special tool&lt;/a&gt; that matches the splines/notches on your freewheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The freehub design is similar, except the pawls are in the hub body itself.  You could be lucky and simply need to tighten the freehub assembly, but once again it's probably frozen or broken pawls.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-overhaul-your-freehub-23757&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reparable&lt;/a&gt;, but a bit tricky and once again needing some specialized tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last option is that it's some kind of internal gearhub. If it's broken they can be fun to take apart, but you're not likely to get it working again.  If you've got a local bike co-op they might want the donation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T09:31:17.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2525" CreationDate="2011-01-26T15:10:25.730" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;50/34 makes more and more sense for most people.  Especially as many cassettes come as 11-25 rather than 12-25.  A 50x11 is the same ratio as 53x12.  The 50/34 combination therefore offers great flexibility in gear ratio even for top level racers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know of one rider whom finished regularly in the top 50 at the Etape du Tour and competes at Premier Calendar level in the UK who uses a 50x34 with an 11-25 cassette.  Unless you are Andy Schleck 50x34 is the way to go for most riders/racers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1034" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T15:10:25.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2525" CreationDate="2011-01-26T18:14:37.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, both chainrings and cassettes can be changed out fairly easily. Most shops that you buy a higher end bike from will work with you to select the cassette and chainring setup that works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T18:14:37.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2625" CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:36:50.767" Score="7" ViewCount="2041" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9s0ML.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chariot bicycle trailer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a child trailer (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chariotcarriers.com/english/html/cougar_conversion_kits.php?conID=3&amp;amp;accID=&amp;amp;proID=cougar&amp;amp;flaID=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;--link has better side/rear view but requires flash) and want to be seen by cars when biking at night.  The little red blinking bike lights available in our area are terrible: even the expensive ones break very easily, turn off after going over the slightest bump, etc.  I am having a very hard time finding a product, by a company that ships to Canada, meeting all of the following requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;has amber/yellow/orange-coloured lights (apparently the only legal all-direction light colour with which to decorate your vehicle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;made of LEDs or other low-power lights, preferable in a strip or rope of some kind, minimum 2ft long (must stretch at least across the back of the trailer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;meant for outdoors--lights and at least part of the wire going to the battery pack must be rain-proof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;operable down to, if not below, -10 degrees C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;powered by rechargeable batteries (e.g., one that uses AA batteries is not a bad choice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bright (we prefer to be seen from afar for 8 hours over being weakly lit for 80--so most battery-powered Christmas lights don't seem to fit this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the following would be very nice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;already put-together (I found many sources of LED strip lighting but then we'd have to borrow a soldering iron and get our own battery pack and seal it ourselves)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not cost-prohibitive (there are lots of places that have nice lights but even for a DIY solution, it's either 2 overpriced half-metres or the next level up is buying 5m which is way too much)...$40 plus shipping would be nice.  I guess we could spend up to $80 after shipping but really...we're replacing dollar-store lights here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came so close to finding something, but the few options that fit all criteria were made by companies that did not ship to Canada (thanks for telling me only once I reached the checkout, and not allowing this as a search criterion even when logged in, Amazon...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the one product &quot;exclusively licensed to Chariot&quot;, StrideLite:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNdMJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;StrideLite system for Chariot&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buzzillions.com/reviews/chariot-carriers-inc-stridelite-strobe-kit-reviews?prRpp=10#bz-model-review-tabs-list&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;apparently it's terrible&lt;/a&gt;, which you can pretty much tell just by looking at it.  It doesn't light up the back at all, which is often the part you'll need to make more visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?  This is getting frustrating, and I'm surprised at the lack of solid options I've come across so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1037" LastEditorUserId="1037" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T19:07:30.320" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T19:48:58.697" Title="Where to find a good bicycle-trailer lighting system...in Canada" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;canada&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2619" CreationDate="2011-01-27T04:26:31.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about strip lighting, but can help with side lighting: REI &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/help/intl_order.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ships to Canada&lt;/a&gt;, and they sell spoke lights. While they don't satisfy your requirement for rechargeable batteries, they are easy to install, come in Amber, and are waterproof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These aren't as bright as, say, a Planet Bike Superflash -- which REI &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/search?query=planet+bike+superflash&amp;amp;button.x=0&amp;amp;button.y=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;also sells&lt;/a&gt; -- but the motion of the turning wheels is a dead giveaway for &lt;em&gt;bicycle&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it wouldn't be an ideal solution, you could also use other LED lighting from REI until you get a more elegant system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-27T17:38:41.840" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T17:38:41.840" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-27T05:37:22.647" Score="3" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this really such a novel piece of equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2006 Bianchi Bergamo internal/hub derailleur&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute with a lot of weight on the rack and pop spokes in my rear wheel at least a couple of times a year. I had it rebuilt and had a good six-month run until last week. I asked a local shop to spec a full replacement wheel so I'd have a spare that I could just drop in (so I can then get the other wheel fixed up when convenient, without losing the use of the bike in the meantime).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They came back saying that the &lt;em&gt;hub alone&lt;/em&gt; would be $350 USD. The whole bike was something like $600 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find a source for this, and now I'm concerned that someday that thing is going to break and then where will I be? Any suggested courses of action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="959" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T13:09:45.860" Title="Source an internal/hub derailleur for Bianchi Bergamo" Tags="&lt;price&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2621" CreationDate="2011-01-27T08:21:41.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could order your own replacement hub, for example Universal currently lists the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=10688&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;36h Dual Drive (Disc) for $187&lt;/a&gt;.  These hubs are a relative rarity, and I don't doubt that your LBS price would be above $300.  Bianchi presumably got them in bulk for a bargain when they specified this frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're carrying heavy loads upgrading to 36h is certainly a reasonable solution and will definitely help.  You can also select a beefier rim - I personally like the Salsa Delgado, but rims such as the Velocity Dyad and Sun Rhyno Lite are perfectly fine as well. Lastly, get a professional wheel build.  All told you're probably looking at at least $320, most of which is dominated by the price of your hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your riding conditions and preferences, another solution might be to replace your Dual Drive hub with a normal 9-speed derailleur hub. This will cost a bit more than usual in the near term (you'll need to replace the shifter and the derailleur), but you'll have more wheels at your disposal.  Craigslist and eBay can be a treasure trove of relatively inexpensive handbuilt wheelsets, if you're patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T08:21:41.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2624" CreationDate="2011-01-27T15:51:09.170" Score="20" ViewCount="3654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen competitive (amateur) cyclists with oval chainrings (front). What is the deal? Are they just for showing off, or is there a practical gain from it (different force transfer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T19:52:36.597" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T21:36:47.823" Title="Is there a practical gain from elliptical/oval chainrings?" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:35:08.637" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory they are more efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throughout the pedal stroke your leg doesn't give an equal amount of force - ideally you want to spend most of the time pushing down with the big thigh muscles and a minimum time in the horizontal movements at the top and bottom of the stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elliptical front cogs give you a more up-down leg motion, so more time with the big muscles and more power - not sure how much it actually works in practice, or how much practice it takes to make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T16:35:08.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2619" CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:42:10.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I buy all my bike lights from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dealextreme.com&lt;/a&gt; - they are in HongKong but have free postage to Canada. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are just buying the same made in China stuff in the shops direct from the makers in China.  Avoid the very cheapest stuff (destined for a Dollar store near you!) and check the reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: specifically for your trailer you can't beat this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442620959&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302692895&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;superflash&lt;/a&gt; from mec&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit2: Lights switching off is normally a problem with the batteries not the switch. The flashing LED lights are microprocessor controlled and a fraction of second interuption in power resets the CPU. Check the batteries are a good contact, especially rechargeables which are a tiny bit shorter than Alkalines. You might have to bend the battery clips to make a good contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T19:48:58.697" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T19:48:58.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2629" CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:14:05.167" Score="16" ViewCount="1865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built my first set of wheels and measured the spoke tension when I finished. They were all uniformly tense at about 100kg of force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I put the tire on, that measurement went down a little, to about 90 kg -- makes sense, I guess: the tube and tire must compress the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the drop made me wonder if the measurement to pay attention to is before or after the tire is added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1039" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T14:55:32.090" Title="Should spoke tension be measured before or after adding a tube and tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2626" CreationDate="2011-01-28T08:33:32.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jobst Brandt's definitive text &quot;The Bicycle Wheel&quot; has this to say on spoke tensioning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;With tensioned wires as spokes, the wheel can support loads only to the point where its spokes become loose. At this point the wheel will collapse. Therefore, for greatest strength, spokes must be as tight as the rim permits.  Structurally the&#xA;rim supports spoke tension as an arch that is compressed by the inward force of the spokes. The load limit for most rims is far less than what the spokes could deliver if they were tightened to their breaking point. So in a conventional wheel, it is the rim that limits wheel strength, not the spokes. A rim can be subjected to spoke tension near its elastic limit because, during use, almost no net tension increase occurs.&#xA;In practice, however, spokes should be slightly looser than the maximum the rim can sustain, because at maximum tension, failure of a single spoke can severely deform the rim.&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that strategy you should not tension the wheel based on any additional compression from the tire and tube, since getting a flat could result in rim deformation or damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The Bicycle Wheel&quot; provides the equation for the decrease in spoke tension under tire constriction, if you're curious.  His measurements on a 36-spoke wheel with spokes at roughly 100kgf and a 25mm tire with 45-degree cord at 115psi give a reduction of total wheel compression from about 5700N to about 5300N.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice you should verify that your spokes decreased in tension evenly; if they didn't you should ensure that you properly stress relieve the spokes and retension them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T08:33:32.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2011-01-28T13:48:01.907" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This issue was highlighted on the BBC News website  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/health-12298562&quot;&gt;Cyclists are 'unaware of the risks from pollution'&lt;/a&gt; in an article aimed at raising awareness in cyclist of  the short and long term effects of air pollution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article makes for a good read. A brief summary,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primarily pollution cause the cyclist’s airways to become inflamed and therefore narrow, trigger airway irritation, decrease the amount of oxygen that the blood can carry and reduce lung function.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pollution from being near or close behind diesel engines is of particular concern (small &amp;amp; ultra fine particles are inhaled deeper into the lungs).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can cause significant airway irritation and breathing difficulties for those with existing respiratory disease. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclists breathe more deeply during the physical exertion of cycling so may take in more particulates than car/bus users, but other studies suggest passengers in those cars/buses might actually be at a higher risk as they are sitting in an environment with limited ventilation &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smarter cycling techniques can help (finding quieter roads, avoiding travelling behind or downwind of vehicle's exhaust fumes, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling is a great way to get around cities and become fit.  Cyclist should not be discouraged by concerns regarding air pollution but should be better informed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1046" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T13:48:01.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2635" CreationDate="2011-01-29T01:07:16.717" Score="14" ViewCount="864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm seriously considering bicycling to work, and I'd like some advice on the way to choose a route. Specifically, I have these two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go on a path with only 2 cross streets, but a road that is 55 mph. I'd probably have to bike off-road, but there's a well maintained dirt shoulder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go on a path with a bike lane, only 35 mph traffic, but many cross streets, traffic lights, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each is about the same distance, so that's not a significant factor. I'm more familiar with the first route, as it's a clear cut reason to drive that way, but I know my way around the second route. There really isn't any other routes, although I might be able to make the second route a bit more off of a main road with a bit of work...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, feel free to give any generic advice to choosing a bicycle route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T15:34:52.343" Title="How do you decide your route to commute to work?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2011-01-29T06:05:15.123" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest staying away from 55mph roads, they're no fun to ride on (unless you're out in the countryside).  Drivers are in a hurry, not looking out for cyclists and at those speeds there's not as much margin for error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to pick a route that lets you enjoy cycling.  It'll make it much easier to get out the door every morning.  If option #2 has slower traffic (both from the speed limit and traffic stops) plus a bike lane to boot, then that's a much better way to go.  Why suffer on a dirt/gravel shoulder when you cruise down a smooth lane of your own?  The stops may slow you down too, but once you learn the route you should be able to figure out the timing (blocks where there's no need to hurry, others where you may want to hustle to make the next light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was commuting in Vancouver, I had similar choices and stuck with the busy route (70km/h so not as fast as 55mph) far too long out of a perception that it was faster.  When I finally switched to the slower, bike-friendly route I enjoyed the trip more and rode more often.  The trip time didn't change much either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-01-29T06:05:15.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2011-01-29T06:19:45.823" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really would only feel safe riding on the dirt shoulder, I'd keep that route as a last resort, since dirt will probably slow you down more than traffic lights and 55 mph traffic is likely scary and dangerous. On the other hand, lights might be more annoying than an overall slowdown from dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try one, then try the other. Time yourself. Weigh how pleasant the ride seemed. Try each of them each way. Pick the one that was faster, or the one that was more pleasant, whichever matters more to you. It's likely the faster one will also be the one that felt more pleasant, since losing momentum is a major annoyance for most of us cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I find stop signs slow me down more than traffic lights, especially on a route that I take frequently. With a traffic light you can learn the timing and either stop pedaling or pedal harder in order to avoid hitting the red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can tell you how I chose my routes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look up routes on maps.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google maps&lt;/a&gt; has some decent cycle route data now; turn on the &quot;bicycle&quot; and &quot;traffic&quot; overlays. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://labs.strava.com/heatmap/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava Heat Map&lt;/a&gt; is a great way to see what routes are popular locally. Your local bicycling advocacy group likely has maps highlighting the best routes. It's likely your local government has an official map of where bike paths/lanes/routes are. Get multiple routes figured out. Look for side roads, bike paths, etc. Small residential roads you'd never consider in a car often work great on a bicycle. And google maps may not suggest that awesome side road because it's not designated as a bike route.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pick the top few routes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ride the best seeming one.&lt;/strong&gt;  You can do this as a test ride on a non-work day, especially if you're concerned about timing. Keep your eyes out for possible side roads, bike paths, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ride a different one.&lt;/strong&gt; Repeat until you've tried all the reasonable seeming options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try them in the reverse direction.&lt;/strong&gt; Sometimes what you don't like on a route won't be there going the other way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take what you've learned and adjust.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two basic commutes, a mixed-mode with 4 miles of bicycle ride, or a 12-mile ride all the way to or from work.  In both cases, my favorite route to work is very different from my favorite ride back home, except for the half mile closest to my house and a few miles in the middle of the 12-mile trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly ordered priority of selection criteria for picking routes, based on thinking about why I take the routes I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One bad spot can ruin a route.&lt;/strong&gt; All perfect smooth bike lane except for that intersection that you feel like you're going to die in half the time? Terrible. Try a route that avoids the bad spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid bad road positions.&lt;/strong&gt; For instance, a busy narrow 55mph road that's one lane in each direction with no shoulder would be bad. But if it's plenty wide with a wide shoulder that would be fine. Or a narrow low-traffic 25mph street would be fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid difficult turns.&lt;/strong&gt; Needing to merge across multiple lanes of busy fast traffic is what I find the worst. There's other ways to make a left turn, but they're usually slower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid long waits.&lt;/strong&gt; Signals that don't pick me up (or just have a very long cycle), stop signs facing busy road that doesn't have to stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid annoying traffic patterns.&lt;/strong&gt; Signals or stop signs that always have a long line. Places where everybody makes a right turn and I want to go straight but it's hard to merge into traffic, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid difficult hills.&lt;/strong&gt; I don't return home on one road that I love for getting to work because it ends with a short steep hill with a left turn. I prefer long gradual slopes over short steep ones, but you might find you have the opposite preference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Find bike lanes.&lt;/strong&gt; Or a good shoulder with not too many right turns across your path. I believe most of the US classifies these into 3 classes: class I is dedicated bike-and-pedestrian-only (&quot;bike path&quot;), class II is a bike lane, class III is a route/suggestion (but might have sharrows or other measures). I usually prefer class II, since class I usually involves dealing with pedestrians and most of the class III stuff around here is a joke with better side-street options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Find smooth pavement&lt;/strong&gt;. Avoid potholes, badly maintained road, etc. Hopefully obvious why. I find sometimes the pavement going one way is much better than going the other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T17:39:16.967" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T17:39:16.967" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-29T10:36:56.503" Score="4" ViewCount="3857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bike everyday in Paris and I am looking for a mask with a particulates filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1049" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-30T05:00:08.200" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T11:07:20.447" Title="What is the best Anti-Pollution Mask?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;pollution&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2011-01-29T17:56:44.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For myself, I would choose the road with the bike path. The start/stops are annoying, but in general a road with the bike path will have more cyclists, and so the motorists will also be more used to dealing with them. Additionally, you will have the extra room on the road, which also makes it less likely that someone will cut in on you while trying to pass. Lastly, riding on a dirt shoulder is fun the first few times you do it, but it wears pretty thin pretty quick in my experience. Mountains are where mountain biking should be done IMO ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to choose a route? For myself, I look at the local department of planning for the bike routes and/or bike lanes that are available. I don't mind riding a little longer to be on a dedicated bike path, it is much friendlier to ride, even than a dedicated bike lane. Failing that, I look for the bike lane, and then &quot;quiet&quot; streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, riding down a busy street without a bike lane can be pretty hairy. I have had motorists who think that it is funny to try and scare you silly. After all, you are riding on &lt;i&gt;their road&lt;/i&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2011-01-29T17:56:44.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2011-01-29T23:48:43.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start simple, and work your way up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started riding to work, I at first stuck to all the bike paths I could find, or failing that, roads with bike lanes. And that was fine, but as time went on, I started shaving the route some, skipping the bike path in one section and riding on the road in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time (5 years), the route changed to the point I just ride on the roads, the most direct and fast way, on a regular basis. Once in a while, I'll go out of my way to add another hill on the way home, or go ride along the river for the scenic route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm saying is start by finding a route you'll be comfortable in, then, over time, you might find your comfort levels shift, and you'll adjust your route accordingly. If you start with a route that's too aggressive for you, or scary, or just uncomfortable, you're more likely to just give up on bike commuting than adjust the route down to something simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2011-01-29T23:48:43.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:00:04.880" Score="5" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have many old bikes, parts, specific tools, etc. Where can I give them to? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1052" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-30T04:57:08.533" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T20:24:01.113" Title="I've got numerous bikes, bike frames, wheels, etc.that I'd like to donate" Tags="&lt;charities&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4359" CreationDate="2011-01-30T03:02:25.770" Score="18" ViewCount="5780" Body="&lt;p&gt;The local bike shop, not the wealthiest operation, has a pile of dead inner tubes growing on the floor. I'd love to discover something where used inner tubes are repurposed, melted down, made into something else. Similar to how e-waste is harvested and repurposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have need for only so many rubber bands and so many bungees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1039" LastEditorUserId="1657" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T11:45:27.623" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T01:21:07.417" Title="Is there a recycling program that accepts unrepairable inner tubes?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2011-01-30T04:28:34.737" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;MEC in Canada accept dead inner tubes and tires, so i'm guessing REI in the states also will&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T04:28:34.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2639" CreationDate="2011-01-30T04:50:22.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The best option would be to find a local &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_cooperative&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycle co-op&lt;/a&gt; and offer them the parts. (They would probably welcome bikes, rims, and tools.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may not be near a co-op; if that's the case, there are numerous &quot;pay it forward&quot; threads on bicycle forums, but you'd end up paying postage; useful for small or esoteric parts. (I've given away a lot of stuff that way.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could also try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freecycle.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Freecycle&lt;/a&gt;, but since that's more of a general audience, I doubt many people on those lists would even know what, say, a bottom bracket &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt;, let alone how to use it. For giving away a complete working bike, this might be an excellent option. (Hey, their logo includes a guitar and a bike!) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T20:24:01.113" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T20:24:01.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-30T06:27:07.980" Score="15" ViewCount="4380" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose want to park my bike outdoors all the time. Conventional wisdom is that you should park a bike under cover, but suppose that's not an option. What should you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe sealed cartridge bearings would be better than cone-and-cup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe belt- or shaft-drive, or at least a full chain guard to keep rain off the chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a treatment to protect the tire rubber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T14:47:35.220" Title="How can I make a weather-proof bike?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2011-01-30T16:49:07.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.connexchain.com/Bicycle-chains/9-Speed/1_327.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stainless steel chain&lt;/a&gt;?  Also if you could remove the saddle and seat post inside and cover the hole that would help.  You don't want to consider some kind of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FIE4YK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike cover&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1020" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T16:49:07.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2639" CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:09:15.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just look for ads and/or post an ad on craigslist/kijiji.  I just saw an ad last week for someone looking for &quot;old bike parts in any condition&quot;.  I kept the parts that I knew I could fix and that I would need and dropped the rest off to him.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T17:09:15.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:11:57.943" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somewhat off topic but when I was 13 (or something like that) I went to a scout summer camp.  A bike shop had given the camp a big pile of used tubes.  It was Awesome.  We made tonnes of stuff with them that summer including giant sling shots between two trees.  I am not sure but maybe an ad on kijiji or craigslist could find a home for these.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T01:19:38.127" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T01:19:38.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2652" CreationDate="2011-01-30T18:43:22.667" Score="12" ViewCount="12399" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite often if I'm riding for longer than about an hour I get a sore neck. I assume that I can make some adjustment to my mountain bike to help prevent or reduce the soreness, but I don't know what. Can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my riding position is more upright than leaned forward, but I couldn't say how much because I don't have a feel for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="446" LastEditDate="2011-01-30T21:34:55.700" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T23:58:50.937" Title="I often get a sore neck when riding. How can I adjust the setup of my bike to help prevent this happening?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;bike-setup&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2011-01-30T19:10:28.677" Score="9" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steel frames are strong and durable, but can rust; &lt;strong&gt;aluminum&lt;/strong&gt; would be a better option. (Carbon fiber or titanium won't rust, but these are expensive enough not to want a bike left outside for security's sake.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1728#1728&quot;&gt;internal hub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is sealed and will eliminate most drivetrain problems, especially if you don't use a front derailer. In addition, cleaning an internal-hub-only drivetrain is faster than on a traditional dual-derailer setup. Downsides: A bit more expensive, and removing the rear wheel to change a flat is a little more complex. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A chain guard isn't a bad idea, but a lot of the gunk that gets caught in the drivetrain is kicked up by the tires. Full &lt;strong&gt;fenders&lt;/strong&gt; will go a long way towards keeping your drivetrain (and you) clean. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As icc97 has &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2644/how-can-i-make-a-weather-proof-bike/2645#2645&quot;&gt;recommended&lt;/a&gt;, a stainless steel chain might be helpful, but &lt;strong&gt;replacing a chain is very inexpensive&lt;/strong&gt; if you do it regularly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything made of &lt;strong&gt;leather&lt;/strong&gt; will not wear well (mostly saddles, grips, and bags) so you would do best to avoid it on an outdoors-dedicated steed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attachment hardware&lt;/strong&gt;, such as screws holding stuff like racks, fenders, shifters, brake levers and so on &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; rust. It's a good idea to keep an eye on this, cleaning or replacing as needed. Screw threads will sometimes also rust, so keep an eye on that. Also, frequent cleaning in general will help enormously. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much of the above can get expensive. If you don't ride far or fast, there's the opton of finding a cheap, used bike and replacing it at the end of the season; used bikes can be found fairly easily if you're not picky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T21:13:15.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2011-01-30T20:01:31.880" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might enjoy reading David Hembrow's analysis of regular Dutch bikes: &lt;a href=&quot;http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2009/01/anatomy-of-reliable-everyday-bicycle.html&quot;&gt;http://hembrow.blogspot.com/2009/01/anatomy-of-reliable-everyday-bicycle.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the URL says: anatomy of a reliable everyday bike. Things like fenders and a fully-enclosed chainguard. Hub gear instead of derailler. Enclosed brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1010" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T20:01:31.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2639" CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:47:40.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've tried all of the charities and bike co-ops in your area and are still left with a pile of parts, you could try offering them (free or for a nominal charge) to the bike hackers over on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.atomiczombie.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Atomic Zombie Forums&lt;/a&gt; (or somewhere similar). If they're parts then they'll probably be glad of them, if they're frames then they'll probably only take them if they're not aluminium. You can never have too many tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, depending on how much stuff you've got buy an arc welder and build your own trike or recumbent - plans here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atomiczombie.com/main.aspx?click=plans&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Atomic Zombie Extreme Machines&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T22:47:40.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2648" CreationDate="2011-01-30T23:10:20.473" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few possible explanations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're sitting too upright, vibrations from the road/trail (anything from pavement quality to serious potholes) will travel straight up your spine, causing your the gaps between your vertebrae to expand and contract.  This can add up on a long ride.  Ideally you want to be leaning forward enough that your back has at least a slight arch to it so that your muscles absorb the impact instead of your spine.  Suspension (either rear or a sprung saddle/seatpost) can help here too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding with your elbows locked, or letting your shoulders sag then again you're letting your inflexible skeleton take the shocks instead of letting your muscles do the work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're leaned too far forward, then you'll constantly be craning your neck upwards to see the road ahead.  The solution here is to raise your handlebars and/or shorten the stem length.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, long rides require stretching out muscles that tend to get stay in the same position all the time.  This is especially true for your upper body and neck.  Either stop to stretch or learn how to some basic stretches while riding.  If I didn't stretch my neck periodically, I'd be a mess after a 10+ hour ride!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown also has &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html#neck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some excellent tips on neck pain &amp;amp; riding posture&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T23:10:20.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2011-01-31T01:45:32.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expanding a little on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1091/for-a-long-25mile-each-way-commute-what-kind-of-bike-should-i-look-at/1092#1092&quot;&gt;Drew Stephens answer&lt;/a&gt;, one option that I would consider is to ease your way into it a little more and look for a &quot;park-n-ride&quot; station about half way in on your commute. That will let you ride more often, and still not cost so much in time. On a good bike, with a reasonable commute, you could get 25 miles down to about 1:30. However, that is still a long time to be riding, three hours each day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get to somewhere half way, park your car for free at a transfer station, and then ride in, you can probably do the whole trip in an hour, pretty easily, and two hours travel time is not too bad, especially when you consider the fitness aspect of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to what bike you want, I would also re-iterate what &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1091/for-a-long-25mile-each-way-commute-what-kind-of-bike-should-i-look-at/1093#1093&quot;&gt;Gary Ray&lt;/a&gt; said, and go speak to a bike shop, or two. They will be happy to make some recommendations, and if you speak to two you will get a counter-view as well. Personally, I would strongly suggest that you reconsider the road bike if you really want to ride 25 miles. I have both, a road bike and a tourer, and the tourer is fine for country riding, but it is a lot more work than the road bike, and a lot slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T01:45:32.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2525" CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:49:13.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I also added in a comment on the question, it would appear that the premise behind the original question no longer the holds true. That is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en_us/bikes/2011/S2/prices-specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cervélo S2 2011 specs&lt;/a&gt; now include a 53/39 crankset, the same as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en_us/bikes/2011/S2/prices-specs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;S3&lt;/a&gt;. The three pre-configured configurations on the S2 come with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-rival-oct-crankset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SRAM Rival (53/39)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/road/ultegra/product.-code-FC-6700.-type-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Ultegra (53/39)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/products/3D_road_cranks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rotor 3D (Round 53/39)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Curiously, I seem getting getting different results to other people. I can view the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en_us/bikes/2011/S1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;S1&lt;/a&gt;, I just checked the link again, and it works for me, it also gives prices in AUD. It also works for me from a Dutch host, and gives prices in EUR. Perhaps it it is not sold in your region and that is why you get the 404? Using &lt;a href=&quot;http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:2HxXSzRrBOEJ%3awww.cervelo.com/en_us/bikes/2011/S1/+http://www.cervelo.com/en_us/bikes/2011/S1/&amp;amp;cd=3&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ct=clnk&amp;amp;client=safari&amp;amp;source=www.google.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;googlecache&lt;/a&gt; I can also see the S1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the S2, again, using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache%3awY7MKTITalEJ%3awww.cervelo.com/en_us/bikes/2011/S2/prices-specs/+s2+prices+specs&amp;amp;cd=5&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ct=clnk&amp;amp;source=www.google.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;googlecache link&lt;/a&gt; I can see that the US has both a 50/34 and a 53/39 setup. The four configurations from that link are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRAM Rival (50/34)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano Ultegra (50/34)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRAM Red/Rotor 3D (53/39)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano Dura-ace/Rotor 3D (53/39)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the same link seems to serve up different content depending on which country you are viewing it from, not only the price in the local currency, but also different sets of configurations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastEditorUserId="1050" LastEditDate="2011-01-31T10:28:57.410" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T10:28:57.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2636" CreationDate="2011-01-31T11:16:32.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today, the major part of city masks were made to avoid breathing dust as @mgb said, you need more than a simple mask to stop micro particles. Anyway try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.u2sportmask.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.u2sportmask.com/&lt;/a&gt; (for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1055" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T11:16:32.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2657" CreationDate="2011-01-31T12:21:32.057" Score="22" ViewCount="48253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a trainer at home. It works quiet. But living in an apartment I would like to make it work quieter. What can I do to minimize noise of a trainer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T21:44:32.923" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T11:27:25.327" Title="What can be done to make a trainer work quieter?" Tags="&lt;noise&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2656" CreationDate="2011-01-31T12:34:32.000" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baffling - place it on carpet or a rug (and several towels), this will both stop vibration through the floor and catch the drips of sweat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T12:34:32.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-31T12:48:02.430" Score="28" ViewCount="17689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my mountain bike out yesterday in the snow. Did some hills around town, riding through slush and puddles, and all sort of dirt/mush/ice/snow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave the bike a pretty good wipe-down after the ride, but I have my outside spigots turned off, so I didn't hose it down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be worried about potential damage to cogs/rings/chain/etc, or any of the other components on the bike? It's a Specialized Epic, aluminum, full suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="975" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T16:57:28.880" LastActivityDate="2019-02-25T12:50:49.047" Title="How bad is road salt for my bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;salt&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2658" CreationDate="2011-01-31T13:30:10.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Salt could be very dangerous. If you own a car, you should already know that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your chain and probably other parts of drivetrain will need replacement in spring, if you ride your bike in winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If salt gets inside your suspension, it can do bad things to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ride a cheap bike in winter.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-01-31T22:29:33.400" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T22:29:33.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2656" CreationDate="2011-01-31T16:25:40.087" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a set of interlocking rubber tiles (for gym equipment) at Home Depot to put under my trainer and bike.  They help with the vibration although I find it's still quite loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also helps having neighbours that are noisier than me, they can't really complain about the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T16:25:40.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2011-01-31T21:17:27.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a number of local bike shops that were running programs to recycle old tires and tubes. They never seem to keep running for a long time though, so it strikes me that there's some sort of problem with those, otherwise they'd keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it's worth asking your LBS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T21:17:27.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2658" CreationDate="2011-01-31T22:31:40.740" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a one-off ride in the salt like that, you should be fine for now if you lube the chain and wipe it down. Give the bike a good washing whenever the weather warms up enough to turn on the outside spigot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience of riding through road salt (and grit, which is probably just as bad) on a regular basis, the bike tends to need a new chain every spring, and a new cassette and bearing overhauls about every second year or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T22:31:40.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2658" CreationDate="2011-01-31T22:35:22.440" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road salt is pretty bad for your bike, and I would recommend cleaning it as often and as thoroughly as you can. It's my understanding that snow and ice can cause rust &lt;em&gt;on steel frames&lt;/em&gt;, so you'll want to get those off as well. On an aluminum frame, I'd be concerned with the paint -- and with screws &amp;amp; bolts (usually made of steel). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had a bike with suspension, but I would think the same problems could happen there, although my wife's suspension fork is sealed. (Rear suspension would offer more places for road salt and ice to hide, but rear shocks are usually sealed units as well.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean thoroughly and often. You can use a tub or a shower, and I recommend against high-pressure water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T04:10:02.357" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T04:10:02.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2665" CreationDate="2011-02-01T06:47:19.613" Score="12" ViewCount="3955" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I've been riding a while, I'm interested in building my own bike.  In this case, it will be a bike for commuting and getting around town.  It will probably be a flipflop fixie/single gear, but the kind of bike isn't important to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What resources (books, web sites, magazines, shops) do you recommend for information about building a bicycle from scratch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1057" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T15:55:50.210" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T15:55:50.210" Title="How can I get started building a bicycle?" Tags="&lt;build&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2664" CreationDate="2011-02-01T07:05:20.957" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My main resources for pretty much anything include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;In particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/how-to-fixed-conversion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sheldonbrown: how-to-fixed-conversion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sheldonbrown: fixed-conversion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loads of general wrenching info at&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course a friendly local bike shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look out for a bike co-op or skills-sharing non-profit/community organization. They may run classes and provide parts and tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T07:05:20.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2667" CreationDate="2011-02-01T10:32:39.360" Score="9" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should I know before I start entering races?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been cycling for one year now after an injury ended my running career so I'm still pretty much a beginner. I'd like to try my hand at racing but I've noticed there is quite a lot of etiquette around cycling so I don't just want to roll up to the start line and anger all the other competitors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T21:52:25.497" Title="Getting started in racing" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2666" CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:00:57.090" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contact a local club. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most have regular training outings (weekends, evenings), you'll meet other racers who'll willingly teach you the tricks of the trades, the local routes and just the espirit de corps which makes competing all the better. (As well as recommending the best local events.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone was a beginner once, although not everyone remembers that. If there are no online chat rooms for clubs in your area it might just be worth going out cycling in the local area of a weekend morning and trying to see groups in similar kit and just asking people. Especially if you can find where they stop for tea! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T14:00:57.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2664" CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:59:02.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although it's mostly geared towards chopping up existing (steel) frames and converting the resultant bits into either recumbents, trikes, quads, electric bikes or choppers, there's a fair bit of generally useful info at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atomiczombie.com/&quot;&gt;Atomic Zombie&lt;/a&gt; site and in their &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.atomiczombie.com/index.php&quot;&gt;forums&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same couple who run the Atomic Zombie site also have a couple of bike building books out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0071545263&quot;&gt;Bike, Scooter, and Chopper Projects for the Evil Genius&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0071422676&quot;&gt;Atomic Zombie's Bicycle Builder's Bonanza&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other books include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0262731541&quot;&gt;Bicycling Science&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1905005687&quot;&gt;Bicycle Design: The Search for the Perfect Machine (Richard's Cycle Books)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0964983532&quot;&gt;Art of Wheelbuilding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2011-02-01T18:01:28.097" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T18:01:28.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2664" CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:06:00.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a bike co-op near where you live? Many offer classes. It's a great way to learn hands-on how to build bikes and breathe new life into old steeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: So far, no one at any local bike shop has turned me down when I've expressed interest in learning and asked if I could watch them build bikes and ask a few questions. Seeing the process demystifies it and makes it seem doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1039" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T18:06:00.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2666" CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:52:25.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as what you should know--the most important thing from a safety point of view is to have some experience (and comfort) with riding at speed in a pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already mentioned by Unsliced, club rides (and, if you can find them, training races) are great places to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T21:52:25.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2672" CreationDate="2011-02-02T03:59:46.650" Score="11" ViewCount="1472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a unicycle with a Surly Endomorph 26&quot;x3.7&quot; tire, and I've discovered that this tire rides best at significantly lower pressure than smaller tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I weigh ~110 kilos, I can ride this 3.7&quot; tire at 12psi without pinch flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously I rode a 24&quot;x2&quot; Nokian tire that required at least 40psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some known relationship where higher tire volume encourages lower tire pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1059" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T05:04:00.823" Title="How is &quot;correct&quot; tire pressure related to tire volume?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;unicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2671" CreationDate="2011-02-02T05:04:00.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ignore the strength in the tire walls (pretty much zero for bike tires) then the pressure (which = force / area ) multiplied by the contact area of the tire on the road must be the force you are putting on the road (ie. the weight of you and the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for a large tire contact patch you need a lower pressure to support your weight, for a small area narrow tire you need a much higher pressure &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T05:04:00.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2639" CreationDate="2011-02-02T16:27:11.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;BikeWorks&#xA;3709 S. Ferdinand St.&#xA;Seattle, WA 98118, USA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeworks.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Works&lt;/a&gt; (See comments for more info.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1062" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-03T17:44:45.113" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T17:44:45.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2675" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:22:09.697" Score="7" ViewCount="5012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get the idea of ratios and the obvious that a smaller gear on the front and a larger one on the back will give you an easier end result but what difference does the range of a chainset or groupset make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess a related question is, &lt;strong&gt;Why do higher end bikes have only two sprockets on the front while lower end ones have three?&lt;/strong&gt; (apart from any weight implication)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastActivityDate="2020-05-28T23:01:16.780" Title="What difference does the range of gear size matter?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2674" CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:08:08.320" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not about higher and lower end bikes, its about the nature of the bikes and the purposes they are used for and probably some history and snobbery too (-:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can pay a truly staggering amount of money for a mountain bike (or a tourer or a recumbent) with a triple chainset and equally you can get something that bears a passing resemblance to a road racing bike with a double chainset for a relatively small amount of money (though its a bit harder than finding something cheap that resembles a mountain bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't ignore weight either - because the bikes with doubles on tend to be road racing bikes and for those weight &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; significant - as is complexity, removing a front ring (only having two) reduces the chances of you being in the wrong gear or having to make an overly complicated change at a critical moment - however it reduces the range of gears and, if you've watch pro cyclists struggling with genuinely steep hills (e.g. in the UK) you'll know that this can be an issue - although seldom in the Tour de France where the hills are long rather than particularly steep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at city bikes and - assuming they use a derailleur - you'll sometimes see a single chainring at the front and again possibly on a bike that costs more than you might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I've not answered the question so...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gear range for a bike is substantially dictated by the lowest gear - you start with what you need to deal with the ascents you will be tackling (based on your personal abilities and other factors) and then cover a range dictated by your gearing 'til you get to a top gear. You hope that you end up with something that allows you to complete the climbs whilst not spinning out (getting to the point where you can't pedal fast enough) too early on the descents or whilst on the level. Ideally you'd like the ratios available between the two ends to be reasonably evenly spaced and easily selectable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes tackle more extreme slopes so need lower gears - hence want triples. Touring bikes tackle the slopes with more weight, so need lower gears - hence want triples. On a recumbent you want to spin up hills in a low gear but are even more keen on being able to turn a high gear - hence want triples (and sometimes more to extend the gear range). On a &quot;road&quot; bike you're assumed to be fitter and stronger and to pedal with a higher cadence - you also want less weight so you give up on the extra chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-03T00:30:25.700" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T00:30:25.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2680" CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:54:19.693" Score="8" ViewCount="5913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cycle to school and intend to wear my new Lycra shorts for my commute as they are much more comfortable. But I want to know if I will look dumb wearing the tight shorts, as my legs are only average and I'm only 15, and also if it will be weird stripping down to no underwear when I get changed in the locker room at school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1064" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T20:53:04.687" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T11:57:08.997" Title="Should I feel self-conscious wearing cycling shorts to school?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;&lt;spandex&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2017-07-18T19:24:06.313" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2676" CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:08:57.470" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wear some non-Lycra shorts/tracksuit bottoms over the top of your Lycra ones if you are self conscious about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change out of the Lycra ones in a toilet cubicle if you are concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy baggy cycling specific shorts which have many of the advantages of Lycra based ones but without the concern about showing off your entire package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick google for &quot;baggy cycling shorts&quot; found me loads of hits, top of which was this page from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cycle/baggy-cycling-shorts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiggle&lt;/a&gt; a UK cycling shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance here are some possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bLRQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shorts from Wiggle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2011-02-02T21:42:47.187" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T21:42:47.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2674" CreationDate="2011-02-02T22:06:45.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your main question is &lt;strong&gt;cadence&lt;/strong&gt;, i.e. the rate at which you rotate the pedals.  Most cyclists naturally tend towards a narrow range of cadences where we feel most comfortable.  We also have different comfort levels / capabilities for power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To spin comfortably up a hill (at your preferred cadence and effort level) you'll need to find a gear that's low enough to match.  For me, that's going to be a pretty small gear; for a pro racer (who can put out lots of power over long time periods) it would be substantially bigger.  The same thing happens on a flat or downhill: if the gearing is too low you'll start to &quot;spin out&quot; (too high a cadence with not enough effort).  Again a racer is likely to need a bigger gear to keep this from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that explains the overall gearing range.  The steps between gears can matter too: if they're too big you may have trouble dialing in the perfect gear that matches your desired cadence and power output.  On racing bikes you'll notice that despite having many gears, the overall range is still fairly small.  The difference is that the step between each gear is more subtle.  (My bike has a fairly wide gear range, so these steps can become quite noticeable as I get tired.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your related question, Murph has nailed it:  high end racing bikes tend towards two chainrings because of need, weight, complexity and fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T22:06:45.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2674" CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:40:40.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Primarily, the range of your drivetrain affects your fastest and slowest speeds (for a given cadence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often there is no perfect range and selection of gearing will normally involve some compromise (Either losing top end speed or making climbs difficult).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The importance of the gear range of your drivetrain therefore varies with your usage scenario, and snobbery (@Murph!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More front chainrings = more range, higher weight, more maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less front chainrings = less range, lower weight, less maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Front Rings   Total Gear Range&#xA;          1   Smallest&#xA;          2   Medium&#xA;          3   Largest&#xA;          4+  Now You're Just Being Silly&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total gear range is limited by chain and derailleur technology and mechanical limits.  For example, it's obvious that if you have a very small to a very large cog in the cassette the chain will need to be long to accommodate the length difference as the chain goes around.  The derailleur must also be able to physically move the distances involved and take up the slack in the chain. (This, incidentally, is why mountain bikes with their large range tend to have long cage derailleurs)  There are limits with how different the cogs can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; difficult to judge the 'high-endianess' of a bike by the number of front sprockets.  Some of the most expensive bikes I've seen have only one chainring, either for weight, maintenance or aesthetic reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="396" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T23:40:40.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2676" CreationDate="2011-02-03T03:23:34.450" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently a senior in high school, so I understand your concern about style. In my opinion, and that of all my friends, wearing lycra shorts to school looks ridiculous, no offense. I don't know how far your commute is, but when I take my road bike to school, it's only 3 miles, so I just wear regular shorts and bring another t-shirt I can throw on so I'm not all sweaty and throw a pair of sneakers into my bag so I'm not stuck wearing cleats all day. If you have a longer commute, just put a pair of basketball shorts on over your lycra shorts. It looks good, feels fine, and others can't even tell you have lycra shorts on underneath them. Baggy cycling shorts don't look much better than lycra when you're in high school, even just for your commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as changing in the locker room, that should be fine. I've done the same thing plenty of times. If you're self-conscious about it, you can always use a shower stall or something so you have some privacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="996" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T03:23:34.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2685" CreationDate="2011-02-03T04:00:32.530" Score="14" ViewCount="17606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what advantages 29&quot; wheels give. From what I understand they are well suited to mountain biking. Are they any use on road bikes perhaps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="792" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-03T17:47:23.677" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T22:59:17.310" Title="29&quot; wheels - what advantage do they provide over smaller wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2639" CreationDate="2011-02-03T05:11:46.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Chicago area, donate those parts to Working Bikes Cooperative. Working Bikes is a 501c3 non-profit with the goal of diverting used bicycles and parts from the waste stream.  Bikes and parts are redistributed to partners in developing countries, primarily in Africa and Central America; to local partners in Chicago; and sold as the means to fund the organization. www.workingbikes.org for more info.  Working Bikes has drop off locations in Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, Indiana and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user766" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T05:11:46.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2583" CreationDate="2011-02-03T05:18:49.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much depends on the tire quality and brand.  For lightweight tires, such as Continential Grand Prix, I find I get shorter life from the rear.  I keep track of how many miles i have on each tire and pay closer attention when I reach typical life span.  Flats and such mean that I rarely change both at the same time.  Only exception is before going on a multi-day trip where I want to minimize bike issues&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user766" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T05:18:49.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2681" CreationDate="2011-02-03T14:23:05.980" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of discussion about 29 inch wheels versus 26 inch wheels. I would summarize it as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Major advantage of 29 inch wheels: ability to roll over obstacles easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Major disadvantage: weight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other advantages/disadvantages but I think those are the main ones. Considering that weight reduction is a major focus of road bikes, and rolling over obstacles is not a great need, I don't see 29 inch wheels catching on for road bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many places online that summarize the debate more completely, for instance. . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mountain-bike-world.com/29-inch-mountain-bikes.html&quot;&gt;http://www.mountain-bike-world.com/29-inch-mountain-bikes.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="975" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T14:23:05.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2681" CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:24:42.723" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding road bikes, the 29&quot; rim size is actually the same as standard 700c wheels used on road bikes -- only the tire is different (larger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One difference that I don't see mentioned often is that 29&quot; vs 26&quot; wheels change your effective gearing.  If you have two bikes with the same gearing but one with 29&quot; wheels and one with 26&quot;, the larger wheel will have a higher gearing overall because of the larger wheel diameter (one turn of the pedals move you farther down the trail).  This means that the 29er can help you reach a higher top speed, but the 26er will have a lower climbing gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/29er_%28bicycle%29#Performance&quot;&gt;the comparison on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T16:24:42.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:56:20.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a Chrome messenger bag and would highly recommend it as highly visible and rainproof. I also have a pannier from Swift Industries that is great for taking larger amounts to work. I know of several people who swear by Ortliebs as visible and virtually waterproof. As others have noted, rolling your clothes will minimize wrinkles. This also works great when traveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot recommend enough the previous note for Action Wipes - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.actionwipes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.actionwipes.com/&lt;/a&gt; They are bigger than most wipes, definitely more sturdier, they smell better and they can be recycled for other purposes after being washed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T18:56:20.877" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-03T18:56:20.877" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2225" CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:47:18.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the honey stinger waffles. It is like a 3-inch waffle with honey in the middle. It is all natural, very tasty and fits very nicely into the seat bag or back pocket. Only drawbacks are that they can be challenging at the moment to get into. There is supposed to be new packaging this year (2011). There also is no protein but on the ride itself that should not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T20:47:18.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2681" CreationDate="2011-02-04T09:10:14.887" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a YouTube video explaining advantage of having bigger wheels. This is only part of the answer, most important reasons were explained by darkcanuck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/fYt6IqaHk_Q?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T09:08:38.347" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T09:08:38.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2692" CreationDate="2011-02-04T09:19:45.707" Score="15" ViewCount="1618" Body="&lt;p&gt;How often should I give my bike a &lt;em&gt;full service&lt;/em&gt;? Strip the bottom bracket, clean and grease it. Strip the groupset and freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what products (or type of) should be used for each process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a road bike which I ride often over the summer (Saturday and Sunday club rides 40 - 70Mi) and commute on during the week. In the winter I get out when I can so it sees some rain / salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T01:57:52.257" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T07:43:51.430" Title="How often should I strip my bike down?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2708" CreationDate="2011-02-04T11:52:26.370" Score="8" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past I have used the Look road pedals and the SPD system, however I know that there are many other systems, including some that work purely on magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of the various systems, and when would you recommend them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T21:32:57.257" Title="What are the advantages of the different clipless systems?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2011-02-04T16:15:55.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a big guy, and have ridden SPD (Mountain bike version, not SPD-R) and Look systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like have the bigger platform to stand and connect with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walking in SPD's is usually (depends on the shoe of course) way easier than in Look cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SpeedPlay are pretty good I am told, and some people swear by Crank Brothers Egg Beaters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2011-02-04T17:28:39.260" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T17:28:39.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2689" CreationDate="2011-02-05T04:10:32.127" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally think that it's a little subjective how often one would strip down a setup. I believe it really depends on riding styles, type &amp;amp; range of equipment and also sometimes events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Riding Styles&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally do freeride and XC. My FR (mostly street) setup receives more attention due to the abuse I put it through (I am heavy!) - though, I don't usually strip it down that much as compared to the XC. The XC has been through all kinds of mud, dirt and sand so naturally some of them get into areas where the sun don't shine (:)). I strip the XC down probably every quarterly but there are quarters that don't see much action where I didn't (eg really rainy seasons with no chance of heading for the trails).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Type &amp;amp; Range of equipment&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher quality equipment usually would require less maintenance but that holds true only on some parts. Most modern rotational parts comes with sealed bearings so trying to clean those up for performance are pretty much futile (easier to just buy and fit a new one- like bottom brackets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Events&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would almost always want to strip down and give a full service to your ride when you are nearing a race where it's critical that it performs flawlessly. Though do remember to do it a few days before so that you have a chance to readjust the fit/feel of your bike to you OR to change out parts that were found to have been damaged, worn out or need replacing (hangs on how much cash you have, parts availability and the like).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T07:43:51.430" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T07:43:51.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2011-02-05T18:02:03.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK I like to use CycleStreets UK to prepare my commute :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclestreets.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gives you options to plan your routes via the Quietest / Fastest / Balanced routes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I plan my route by the fastest way and avoid too crowded pedestrian neighbourhood since I am always late to go to work &#xA;(although i have to cycle via SouthAll in west-london which get really busy on mornings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1067" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T18:02:03.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-05T19:28:53.933" Score="4" ViewCount="7673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just buy for the first time a road bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_502001_langId_-1_categoryId_165710#dtab&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boardman Team Carbon&lt;/a&gt;) after long years on hybrids bike and unfortunately due of a injury I didn't have much time to experience with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has a SRAM Rival 10 speed gear shifter and I was wondering what are the difference between all the different type of gear shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be good to know what are the advantages and disadvantages and if you have experience with it what are the optimal way to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1067" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T23:20:21.713" Title="What are the advantage of the different gear shifters" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2694" CreationDate="2011-02-05T23:20:21.713" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is based on my experience with the following type of shifters, but is limited to Shimano so others may have a different experience.  I haven't tried to split out the different variations of brifters either since I've only used 105's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Integrated brake/shift levers&lt;/strong&gt; (aka &quot;brifters&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters are always close at hand, so you can always shift when you need to without taking your hands off the handlebar (unless your hands are on the flats).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This means shifting while climbing/descending is a breeze.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similarly, brakes are always nearby&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complicated devices, so a mechanical issue can cripple your shifter when on a long ride far from the nearest bike shop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake levers are very likely to take a pounding in a crash (whether major or minor), which is bad news for brifters (see &quot;expensive&quot; and &quot;complicated&quot; above)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bar-end shifters&lt;/strong&gt; (mount at the end of drop bars or aero bars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple devices, usually indexed for quick gear changes, but can also be switched to &quot;friction&quot; mode which allows you to dial in your gear by feel (handy when your shifting goes out of alignment).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower total cost than brifters (including separate brake levers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to learn than down-tube shifters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters are nearby, but you still have to take your hand off the bars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inconvenient if you need to shift while out of the saddle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible to hit them with your knees (depends on bike and rider geometry) which can cause an unwanted shift (and can be quite painful)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Down-tube shifters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple like bar-end shifters (including choices of indexed/friction shifting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also inexpensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shorter shifter cable runs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not likely to hit your knees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quite far from the bars, so you'll likely shift less often than with the other styles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inconvenient for shifting while out of the saddle or during a white-knuckle descent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Takes some getting used to finding the levers without looking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not all modern frames will have the appropriate braze-ons for mounting (but most should).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current bike uses bar-end shifters based on some of the reasons above.  Plus for long randonneur rides (over 20 hours) I lose a lot of hand strength and the bar-end shifters are the easiest to work with (can shift using the heel of my palm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T23:20:21.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2702" CreationDate="2011-02-06T00:47:18.690" Score="2" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alert the semi-solid fork is probably not the right terminology, it shows that I don't know 100% whether the work has some sort of inner suspension.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is almost this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.melesbike.fi/imagemagic.php?img=images/products/sport-pyrt/crescent/polkupyrt/helag.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; but I feel there is some sort of inner suspension thing because there is a rubber or it is just decorative and I just imagine it is suspension due to tires. There is a small rubber cork to the fork so I think it is to oil the suspension. I looked inside the rubber thing and there is suspension looking metallic thing. Notice the small rubber cork for the oil, I have never put anything there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3961a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't yet dissasembled the bike and no specific specs because I bought it as 10k-driven used bike. So no precise diagnosis yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Description of the sound&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front makes a lot of whiizing sound. When I drive with weight on the front, the sound disappears. When I slow down even a little (i.e. the force is less on the front due to de-accelerating), the sound emerges again. Because of this observation, I thought that the fork is not rigid-fork but with small suspension. What would you suggest to do with the fork? I will disassembly it and apply some sort of special lubrication (it may be just that lubrication is eroded) or will I do something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T03:05:47.360" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T05:31:48.600" Title="Why would semi-solid fork make whizzing sound?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2804" CreationDate="2011-02-06T01:04:17.677" Score="4" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alert I am unsure of the right terminology for gear-wheel but I mean the round things near pedals such as 3x9 or typically with 3x7 (3 front, 7 back) mix in commuting bikes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current gears are 3x9 (3 front, 9 back) but I plan to change to cheaper, the current gear-wheels are used (about 15k km, 4winters and 3 summer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I put other gears such as 1x7 or somehow reuse the old gears? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What should I take into account when choosing other gear-wheels and gears? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing problem with my current ones, they work fine (a bit slower than as new but not a problem) but I cannot spend too much on upgrading the gears/gear-wheels. I need to know what to look for in second-hand stores or to find some sort of compromise i.e. perhaps to upgrade things slowly part-by-part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T17:45:36.120" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T23:27:09.413" Title="Switching from 3x9 Gears to Cheaper Ones?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-06T01:30:16.973" Score="3" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discussed today foreign ambulance guys and they told stories about sliced bicyclists in an  ex-communist country. The country in itself is not special but rather the fact that it lacks proper roads for cars, it then again means that it is blatantly dangerous ride the zig-zag roads along with 100km/h speed limits or more that are not even designed for such speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I want to gather here countries that do not have such problems. I planned my road along such zig-zag road with Google Maps but after hearing the story and seeing the conditions, I decided to get a local bus over the dangerous area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I continue towards South, I would like to know which countries to avoid inside EU. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;European Long-distance-paths &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_long-distance_paths&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;European Cyclists Federation &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_Cyclists%27_Federation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, some paths suggested&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some research done from &lt;a href=&quot;http://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=bicycle+roads+europe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Europe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;political aspect and safety in long-distance bicycling &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4245/which-counties-should-be-avoided-due-to-political-reasons&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;evolution of bicycle infrastructure, trying to investigate how/why bicycle infrastructure evolves &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4251/how-do-bicycle-infrastructure-evolve&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T23:15:55.607" Title="Safe countries for touring (without having to take public trasport all the time) in EU?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2011-02-07T21:22:46.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2011-02-06T02:06:08.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;During freezing winters, I think the most important thing to have is a commando balaclava. I borrowed mine to a friend and it was slow-cold ride without it the next day, actually got cold on that ride. I have used Miltec's commando balaclava and it is warm. You can find a variety of balaclavas &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.varusteleka.fi/group/apparel/headwear/balaclavas/107&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for 5eur. Please, note that you can find this kind of items as Used and very cheap because armies use them, so check your eBay for over-supply baraclava army or something like that, needless to pay for the next-new-sport-wear. Reuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like to use winter goggles, more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1666/what-are-the-features-that-i-should-seek-in-cycling-glasses/2926#2926&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I have tried a few times with just classes and baraclava but noticed that my eyes become terrible dry/cold/hurting. The specific goggles, more in my reply in the link above, are not traditional skiing goggles. There are many extra good sides such as &lt;em&gt;Reusability and Extendability&lt;/em&gt; with additional screens, I don't like skiing-style orangish-or-something-like-that-fixed-things, I have extra lenses for different circumstances that I like to swap. It makes them particularly good for touring because I can carry just one head-thing and all lenses separate. Now during spring and with snow, I use polarized lenses in ESS. When I am in rush, I just pick up old good SWDG because it is easier to switch between the sun-screen and the clear screen -- perhaps a reason why it is still in service. The ESS is better otherwise but switching screens is time-consuming. I am not a racer or anything like that so squeezing few milliseconds with physically attached lenses to the eye-body makes me no difference. I don't know whether the design has contributed to casual skiing goggles but I know the design is outstanding for casual cycling and touring because I don't like to have many skiing goggles, just many screens. Anyway for about 10USD from second-hand over-supply market, I cannot complain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T18:30:54.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2697" CreationDate="2011-02-06T02:10:16.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From looking at the picture, you do have a front suspension, of a type you would usually see on &quot;hybrid&quot;/&quot;comfort&quot; bikes, with a very small amount of travel. I can't think of any way that a problem inside that suspension component could cause a whizzing noise, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's more likely the wheel rubbing against something, such as a fender, brake pad, etc.  If the wheel is off true (not straight) or not seated properly on the fork, it could be slightly rubbing against something but get better with some weight on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's on the front of the bike that gets anywhere near the wheel? Front brakes? Fenders? A basket or rack? Lights? Disk brakes like shown on that bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some things I'd try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it make the noise with &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; weight on it?  Can you hold up the front of the bike and listen? Figuring out exactly where the noise is coming from would be very helpful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you hold the handlebars or fork steady and try to move the wheel sideways, is there any play (does it wiggle or is it solid)? The wheel should spin freely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at one of the brake pads (or something else that's close to the wheel) and spin it; can you see the wheel move side to side as it spins?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wiggle the spokes. Do they all feel the same, or do some feel looser than others?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's anything optional, like fenders and you still haven't found the source of the noise, try removing those and see if the noise goes away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T05:31:48.600" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T05:31:48.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3300" CreationDate="2011-02-06T03:17:13.513" Score="12" ViewCount="88151" Body="&lt;p&gt;With long journeys and particularly during winter I have noticed that the salt erodes the chain very quickly, even when I have lubricated the chain beforehand. When you are missing proper chain lubricants, what would you use as a substitute? Could you use cooking oil if you are missing the right stuff, or should I keep a small bottle of oil with me on my rides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3570/vegetable-oil-to-oil-a-bike&quot;&gt;Vegetable oil to oil a bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3304/how-to-clean-consumable-metallic-parts-cheaply-while-touring&quot;&gt;How to clean consumable metallic parts cheaply while touring?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/633/what-chain-lube-do-you-use-for-winter-riding-water-gritted-roads-etc&quot;&gt;Chain lube for winter riding?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3/best-chain-lubricant-for-road-bikes&quot;&gt;Best chain lubricant for road bikes?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2020-12-08T21:10:06.297" Title="Are there substitutes for chain lubricant?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;salt&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2721" CreationDate="2011-02-06T03:28:02.583" Score="7" ViewCount="44366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two bikes: one having gear-things outside and one with inner-hub. The gear-outside-bike has suffered a lot due to the salt during this winter, the other hilariously looks like a new one. I noticed that some XC bikes have very thick chains and the metal used in chain is different, a owner told me that he changed to a thicker chain during winter. I am planning to do similar upgrade to my salted chains that salt has destroyed during the winter and perhaps to gears as well -- actually I must change everything at once because leaving destroyed gear-round-things would destroy new chain pretty quickly (heard this from an engineer). So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What should I look in chains and the gears for winter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When switching to larger gear-round-things and thicker chains, are there some special restrictions?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have currently (3x9, 3 front and 9 back) gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-27T20:30:53.907" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T09:21:52.830" Title="Heavier Thicker Chains and Gears for Winter due to Salt?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;salt&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2706" CreationDate="2011-02-06T03:32:16.153" Score="12" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty simple question but I think some recommendations would make my chains a bit long-lasting. So when should you do something to your salted chains? When the chains already look rusty, can you use water to clean the dirt out and then oil as a lubricant, or is it better to throw rusty chains into the dustbin? So how to maintain chains in good condition during winter? Oil every day, what about water? May water do even more damage to the chains if the metal has become very porous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-16T06:23:22.993" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T23:13:29.813" Title="How should I clean salt out during Winters?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;salt&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2705" CreationDate="2011-02-06T04:21:22.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use water to remove the salt if it's bad enough, but &lt;strong&gt;immediately wipe off the water and generously re-lubricate the chain&lt;/strong&gt;. You &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; want to let the chain sit around with the salty water on it, as it will readily rust. So if you use water, just make sure the chain is completely dry afterwards, then re-oil it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal doesn't really get porous, but AFAIK rust kind of does-- if the rust is that bad, you may want to consider cleaning the rust off with a toothbrush or getting a new chain altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oiling often in winter is a must. Some people use hot wax instead, but depending on your situation, that might be overkill. You may not need to oil it every day (if it still has plenty of oil visible on it, I don't bother with my chain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T04:21:22.613" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2011-02-06T06:08:54.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used SPD and Crank Brothers (I have a set of Mallets on my mountain bike, and Candy SLs on my road bike). Both the Mallet and the Candy are built around the egg beaters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to say I greatly prefer the Crank Brothers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Entry/exit is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; easy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have a decent amount of float, which is great for mountain biking, because it allows you to move around on the pedals if you need to. It's not as great for road biking, but I have the cleats on my road shoes set for the &quot;less float&quot; and the easy entry/exit makes it worthwhile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No tension screws to adjust, and fewer moving parts to maintain. Just a spring, basically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not to say that the SPD system is bad. Your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T06:08:54.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2714" CreationDate="2011-02-06T09:56:57.180" Score="5" ViewCount="1882" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both my rim brakes --- front and back --- have started to make a periodic noise when I engage them. They will be silent for a little bit, then gradually start to make noise. As I brake, the noise will increase and eventually culminate in a very loud noise, and then be quiet again to restart the cycle. This is definitely independent of speed or how much I've been riding that day. The cycle seems to repeat itself every 1-3 days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is best described as finger nails on a chalkboard. It is definitely not a squeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this happen? I suspect my pads are getting worn, but they are not past the indicator lines yet. The bike is a little over a year old and has gotten &quot;medium&quot; use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T00:34:32.077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T00:34:32.077" Title="Brakes periodically make &quot;finger nails on chalk board&quot; sound" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2011-02-06T13:14:31.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jason Plank suggested a thing called &lt;code&gt;hot wax&lt;/code&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2705/how-should-i-clean-salt-out-during-winters/2706#2706&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I have no idea what it is, google returns more porn than bikes, so it would be helpful if someone pointed the right stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T13:14:31.127" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-06T14:22:59.743" Score="7" ViewCount="3846" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over time, the paint on the rims of a wheel has slowly been eaten by a set of brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I strip left over paint?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What type of paint should be used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I ensure the new paintjob will endure under friction from brake pads?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T14:25:59.210" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T22:55:08.577" Title="Re-painting Rims" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2011-02-06T14:57:17.480" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The braking surface on your rims shouldn't be painted, it will just reduce the brake's effectiveness and the paint will quickly wear out.  In fact, over time rim brakes will actually wear down the metal on the braking surface.  (After a lot of use, this area can get dangerously thin and the rims will need to be replaced.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Painting below the braking surface is fine, although I don't have enough experience to give you any tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="157" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T19:42:40.387" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T19:42:40.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2011-02-06T15:12:27.910" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also consider using a stainless-steel chain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one source, there are probably others:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.connexchain.com/Bicycle-chains/9-Speed/1_327.html&quot;&gt;http://www.connexchain.com/Bicycle-chains/9-Speed/1_327.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T15:12:27.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2709" CreationDate="2011-02-06T20:32:02.007" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds that bikes make are difficult to describe.  &quot;Fingernails on a chalk board&quot;, so sort of a high pitched dry scraping noise, not a squeal, squeak or scream?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sounds like something ceramic, stone or metal rubbing against the metal rim to me. The last loud noise where it then goes quiet could be whatever it is getting turned just before getting entirely dislodged. Does that sound about right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert, but my best guesses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poorly made brake pads made with chunks of stuff in them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're picking up some sort of grit that's getting stuck in the brake pad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consistent pattern points much more to the pads being manufactured that way. But I've had similar kinds of sounds when I picked up a bit of sand on the rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake pads aren't solid rubber/poly-whatever, the're actually a compound, typically with a sort of ceramic or metallic material embedded in the rubber-like material.  Poorly made brake pads can have large chunks of that material instead of consistent fine particles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, when the noise starts, examine the brake pads. You'll probably see something embedded in the pad that you can pry out with something pointy (screwdriver, tip of a knife) or scrape out with a razorblade. It's quite possible it's something the size of a grain of sand, not a huge chunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if it definitely looks like it's something that the pad was manufactured with in it, consider replacing the pads with a different brand; It's likely that your rims are getting worn faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T16:03:51.103" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T16:03:51.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2711" CreationDate="2011-02-06T22:09:36.217" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not paint&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that has worn off of your rims. It's &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;anodizing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. So it won't come off with a paint stripper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... When&#xA;  braking in wet conditions, road grit wears off anodizing on the&#xA;  sidewall...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anodizing is an electro-chemical process often used to color aluminum bicycle parts. Some people actually do this at home. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nonlintec.com/anodizing/&quot;&gt;http://www.nonlintec.com/anodizing/&lt;/a&gt; And there may be an electro-plating or anodizing shop in your locale who can re-anodize your bike rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T22:55:08.577" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T22:55:08.577" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2011-02-07T01:04:24.503" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option would be to use a cheap chain during winter and discard it in spring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another would be to not have the chain be salted in the first place, try a hermetic chain guard system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike doesnt have a dereailleur, you could try a chainrunner, but I have my doubts it protects against water getting into the lining. &lt;a href=&quot;http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Datei:Chainrunner.JPG&amp;amp;filetimestamp=20100223153843&quot;&gt;http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Datei:Chainrunner.JPG&amp;amp;filetimestamp=20100223153843&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Teflon-based lubricants are pretty good in summer, but dont help in winter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooking oil is not suited for mechanical parts. (It chemically changes over time, contains acidity, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1076" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T01:04:24.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2011-02-07T02:22:02.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really a substitute but the instrinsic goal is the same to get the chain more long-lasting. I met a guy that switched to thicker chains with other material during winters more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2704/heavier-thicker-chains-and-gears-for-winter-due-to-salt&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T02:22:02.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2011-02-07T03:15:16.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there isn't a substitute for simply keeping a bike clean. Even on a multi-day ride, it's possible to bring along a rag and a bottle of lube, at least getting off the worst of the salt and dirt before adding lube. Some bike shops sell small packets of lube, but those are getting harder to find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooking oil is not designed to lubricate metal, and isn't going to do a very good job at keeping your bike lubricated. Wax lube works best in very clean environments, as it has a tendency to pick up dirt and, I assume, road salt, making the problem worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In winter conditions, I would stick with regular chain lube while keeping the drivetrain as clean as you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If having a very clean drivetrain is important to you, you might consider looking into internal hubs or even shaft-drive bikes; both offer fully sealed drivetrains, but they do come with performance and weight trade-offs.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-07T04:59:42.563" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T04:59:42.563" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2720" CreationDate="2011-02-07T05:53:18.203" Score="6" ViewCount="994" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to estimate contact patch size given tire size plus tire volume and rider weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I've tried to build a unicycle that maximizes contact patch for riding on soft snow. I have a 26&quot;x3.7&quot; tire with a 65mm rim that I have at 12psi, how can I calculate the resulting contact patch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extra credit, I'd like to calculate the contact patch size required to ride across newly fallen snow for a particular rider weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question was previously asked as a comment on my previous question, but I feel it needs its own question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1059" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T07:02:52.207" Title="Is there a way to estimate contact patch size given tire size plus tire volume and rider weight?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;unicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2719" CreationDate="2011-02-07T07:02:52.207" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically: weight/psi = square inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has to be combined weight of rider and cycle. And it's approximate. And much easier with a unicyle: with a bicycle you need to know weight distribution, which can change during a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minor things that make it only an estimate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compression from weight increases psi, making contact patch smaller than estimate. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thickness of material could increase contact patch size. In fact, I think this math gives you the area of the part of the interior surface of the inner tube that's pressed against the part of the tire pressed against the ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stiffness of tire materials could decrease contact patch size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tread features (knobs, grooves, etc) could do all sorts of things to contact patch size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bumps, jumps, etc momentarily increase &quot;weight&quot; (downward force on wheel or upward force on contact patch), contact patch size and psi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No idea about new fallen snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T07:02:52.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2704" CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:23:45.970" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike chains come in two sizes, 1/8inch (aka BMX chain) and 3/32inch (aka 9 speed chain). 1/8inch chains are designed for single speed or internal hub geared bicycles and the chain is designed in such a way that it can not be derailed from the sprocket. A 3/32inch chain is designed for a derailleur geared bicycle and is designed to ease shifting from one sprocket to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thickness of the chain will have little if anything to do with how the chain behaves or wears due to road salt. People have many different views on how to keep your chain happy and prevent it from wearing, my advice would be to either invest in a full chaincase (for a singlespeed bike) or to dry and lube your chain after it has gotten wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick to lubing a chain is to use a rag to remove any dirt. Then apply a small amount of a thick bicycle chain oil to the inside side of the chain (the top side of the chain at the bottom side of the bike, or the bottom side of the chain at the top side of the bike, if that makes sense). Finally, spin the chain good and proper to get the lube into the chain (it's useless if it's sitting on the outside of the chain, it needs to work its way inside the links) and then use the rag to remove any excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excess chain oil sitting on the outside of the chain will attract dirt which will cause your chain to wear prematurely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1078" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T13:23:45.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2676" CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:36:32.853" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you are travelling really far (5+ miles) or going for some kind of home to school time trial record, just wear your regular clothes (tuck your trousers into your socks if need be) and cycle a little slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too many people are too obsessed with racing their bikes places, but if you think of cycling as a faster and more efficient way of walking then you'll get on just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1078" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T13:36:32.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2725" CreationDate="2011-02-07T16:14:36.647" Score="4" ViewCount="2230" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some call it speedometer or odometer but I mean the thing to measure velocity, trip distance and such things. When you come up with a usage-case, please, point out the function which you use. The only thing where I may need a speedometer is to know when to lubricate e.g. after every 500km and to know the speed not to break speed limits. So very simple cheap one should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Not sure about terminology, whether speedometer, odometer or cyclometer. The first ones just return the cheapest units:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Bike-Bicycle-Cycle-Digital-Odometer-Speedometer-Bk-/290498469760?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item43a30edf80&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;~2.75USD (ebay)&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/sunding-electronic-bicycle-computer-speedometer-24075&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5.04USD (dx)&lt;/a&gt;, perhaps Chinese are abusing the language or different English.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T17:44:43.390" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T20:00:59.870" Title="When is Cyclometer useful?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;performance-tracking&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2011-02-07T16:34:51.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of two possible reasons why you might want to use an odometer/speedometer. (Note: sometimes it is also called a &lt;em&gt;cyclometer&lt;/em&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A. Tracking fitness/training goals (especially if you are into racing).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want to compete in an endurance race, you will want to prepare for it by conditioning yourself to cycle consistently at a sustained speed for long periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you are just looking to improve your fitness, a heart rate monitor in combination with a speedometer is very useful for finding the heart rate or pace at which you can get the best cardiovascular exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B. If you don't care much about fitness or racing, a speedometer and/or odometer can be nice if you are just curious about how far you can cycle or how fast you can go.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most speedometers will show the maximum speed of your trip, so after a descent/sprint you can check how fast you were going.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And of course, an odometer can help you figure out how far you have cycled in a given time period (daily, weekly, monthly, etc.). From that, you can find out how much money you have saved on bus fare/gasoline, etc. by cycling instead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T16:34:51.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2011-02-07T16:35:39.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speedometer&lt;/strong&gt; = device which measures speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Odometer&lt;/strong&gt; = device which measures distance traveled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycle computers can normally do both (plus many other features you may or may not need).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they absolutely necessary for cycling?  No, but they can be quite helpful in many cases.  When riding long distances (e.g. touring, randonneuring), it's often important to know how far you've traveled, so an odometer comes in handy.  You may be trying to determine where you are on a map, how far until the next turn, how far to the next town, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're training, being able to track your performance over time can also be handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T16:35:39.733" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2011-02-07T16:36:36.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my speedo/odo for training purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has a cadence sensor, so I can keep my cadence at 90rpm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has a lap timer, so I can track my pace on the 5k loop I ride on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It accumulates mileage, so I have a sense of my weekly distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fancy ones have wireless sensors so you don't need to route wires, built in GPS, a heart monitor, a computer interface for uploading your workouts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine cost me $20 USD, took about 15 minutes to install, and does everything I need.  I know where I'm going, and I know where on the loop my heart's about to explode.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1079" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T16:36:36.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2723" CreationDate="2011-02-07T17:09:43.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I am partly generalizing current replies but added some new ones. I am not sure yet which unit correspond to my needs, perhaps just trying the cheapest one like &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-Bike-Bicycle-Cycle-Digital-Odometer-Speedometer-Bk-/290498469760?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item43a30edf80&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this (2.75USD, shipped)&lt;/a&gt;. I can imagine all of my usage cases below would be satisfied with an odometer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A. Business&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought my bike as second-hand and it made a good impression when the seller gave all stats about the bike usage like 10k driven, it is 2 years old but been in heavy use. I calculated the price with &lt;code&gt;25%&lt;/code&gt; demortization rate p.a. (pessimistily to 3 years) and added a risk factor that depended on the driven distance. So it was easy for me to pay a fair price. Please, do not interpret the last thing wrong. I bought the bike from auction-site and since I knew the &lt;code&gt;lawful&lt;/code&gt; price for it, I made considerably higher bid than the next highest bid (not wanting to waste time) so I think a good example where quantifying bike usage is good for both parties. And am I happy? Sure I am, superb bike and I do like fixing some trivial bugs in it like fenders and pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B. Maintenance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seen suggestions such as lubricate every 300miles (about every 500km). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C. Orienting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't always know places, exactly, just something like 4.2 km along that street and then left. If you know exactly your driven distance and don't want to look at the map all the time, I think odometer can make the journey much more pleasant, killing unnecessary zig-zagging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T20:00:59.870" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T20:00:59.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2699" CreationDate="2011-02-07T17:27:23.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tricky question to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is London better because it has lots of official bike lanes, bike stop signs and bike crossings? But it also has a huge amount of traffic and lots of heavy trucks and busses in small streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cambridge has little official support for bikes (it periodically bans them from areas of the city) but because there is relatively little traffic and a lot of bikes it's pretty good to cycle in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T17:27:23.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2011-02-07T17:30:21.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I use waterproof cycling jackets, I often find that a garbage bag with holes for the head and arms does the trick - especially when there is only a chance of rain. The price is right (less than $1), they stow easily in the pocket, and they be found in many places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T17:30:21.323" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-07T17:30:21.323" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2731" CreationDate="2011-02-07T18:17:51.980" Score="4" ViewCount="871" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some images about lubrication to which I am referring to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/images?q=tf2+lubricant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and image about parafin usage &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Lubricating-a-Bicycle-Chain-using-Paraffin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray lubricant (like green bottle 450ml TF2) can be awkward to carry, not the case with  black &lt;a href=&quot;http://global.ebay.com/search?Query=TF2+lubricant&amp;amp;Region=0&amp;amp;PageNumber=1&amp;amp;SortBy=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tiny bottle TF2&lt;/a&gt; or more &lt;a href=&quot;http://global.ebay.com/search?Query=TF2+lubricant&amp;amp;Region=0&amp;amp;PageNumber=1&amp;amp;SortBy=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. If I can understand right, they may have different usage because of different penetration (speculation). Then, there is also non-spray lubricant called hot wax ala paraffin, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Lubricating-a-Bicycle-Chain-using-Paraffin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;instructions&lt;/a&gt;. And certainly innovative people have invented even more merry products. Which products do I really need to to keep my chains in good condition? The cheaper, the better. The products are not genuine substitutes due to their size, forgive me, and if I have interpreted right, you may need to heat parafin or I am just misinterpreting the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Lubricating-a-Bicycle-Chain-using-Paraffin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When do you use spray lubricant and non-spray lubricants? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which lubrication is the cheapest? What about the best with infinite time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is some of the lubricant bulk product so you could get it cheap perhaps parafin?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T17:46:33.793" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T19:11:32.083" Title="What is the difference between Spray lubricants and non-spray lubricants?" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;price&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2730" CreationDate="2011-02-07T18:37:18.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want a lubricant that isnt sticky. If it is sticky, dust will collect on your chain and form the gunk you are used to. This means: no oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, spray lubricants can be more runny than bottled, because they can be formulated to evaporate the solvents more efficiently. It seems this is because the bottle seals arent that tight and the lubricant would dry out in the bottle. This leads to the chain feeling more dry when sprayed. I spray every few hundred miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some spray lubricants are available in smaller, 150ml spray cans. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 450ml spray bottles last for years. I ride a recumbent with a long chain, and after two years the 450ml bottle is still half full. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No experience with the paraffin thing. Unchaining a recumbent is no fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to use bottled teflon based lubes, but by now I am fixed on sprayed, because it isnt as sticky, and seems to last longer. Just cheap lubes may not pay, depending on the price of the chain etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1076" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T18:37:18.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:25:57.227" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no expreience with this, but this came up on Urban Velo. They claim to fit perfectly for iPhone 4 an similar sized devices: &lt;a href=&quot;http://urbanvelo.org/minoura-ih-100-smart-phone-holder/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://urbanvelo.org/minoura-ih-100-smart-phone-holder/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T19:25:57.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:41:41.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always used Phil's tenacious oil in the winter time. Very thick but lasts longer than most in some of the worst conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://phil-wood-co.myshopify.com/collections/lubricants-and-cleaners/products/4-oz-bottle-of-phil-tenacious-oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://phil-wood-co.myshopify.com/collections/lubricants-and-cleaners/products/4-oz-bottle-of-phil-tenacious-oil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MSDS sheet &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0378/1413/files/SDS-PHIL_TENACIOUS_OIL.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0378/1413/files/SDS-PHIL_TENACIOUS_OIL.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPRbO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPRbO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-06-19T01:13:49.623" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T01:13:49.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2736" CreationDate="2011-02-07T20:03:09.583" Score="6" ViewCount="1585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing chains on a number of bicycles, and trying to decide what chains to purchase.  I'm a fan of Sram's master links, so I'm comparing the Sram PC-971 to the PC-991.  The PC-991 is considerably more expensive, but it seems like the lighter weight chain would make a significant difference in pedaling performance, because of the angular momentum involved.  Are my instincts correct, or is this just a sales gimmick on Sram's part?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I've seen some reviews indicating that the hollow-link chains are prone to breakage -- is this something I should be concerned about? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T23:17:01.357" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T16:28:55.073" Title="Are lighter chains worth the cost?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2735" CreationDate="2011-02-07T20:23:49.320" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no racer so I'm probably speaking from a very different point of view than you were interested in. I have used Sram 9-speed chains for years on my touring/commuting bicycles. I have used the 971, 981, and 991 and haven't been able to see any difference in performance or longevity, either. With my wet-weather commuting here in the Seattle area where it's pretty nearly wet every day from October through March, and then there's plenty of rain in April and May, too, I have been able to wear out chains and cassettes very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a mountain biker--or at least not an avid one--so I have never really hammered the chains in the muck but I have never had one of their chains break. I've just managed to wear them out over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do greatly appreciate the master link because it makes it easy to take the chain off the bike and put it back on again. Before I switched to a bike with a Rohloff internally geared hub for my commuting, I would keep two chains in rotation on my bike and take one off, soak it in cleaner, and let it dry while I put the other clean chain on my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T20:23:49.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2741" CreationDate="2011-02-07T20:53:39.647" Score="11" ViewCount="53766" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear brake (calliper) on my road bike sticks. When I pull the brake it pulls down but only half springs back and there's then slack in the leavers.  This is causing rubbing on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a fairly new bike (last year) so I wouldn't think it's just normal wear and tear. I've tried adjusting the tension using the adjuster and rebalancing but it doesn't seem to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what the problem is and how it can be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T17:28:38.793" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T21:05:13.667" Title="How do I stop my brake from sticking?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2817" CreationDate="2011-02-07T20:55:45.563" Score="15" ViewCount="861" Body="&lt;p&gt;Terms such as wet/dry/xyz/winter/summer/autumn lubricants are not well defined. I find it very hard to determine which bottle is worth buying, spray, bottled, wax, parafin, purple, green, Y (other things) -- now, my brain encountered a stackoverflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can one &lt;strong&gt;measure objectively&lt;/strong&gt; which oil is more appropriate to a particular usage case? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Help Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which properties to look for in chain oils?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there standard terms by which to judge chain oils? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there an index of different properties in oils that would cover things such as viscosity? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I must confess the topic is more like a research type of question and hence hard to attack directly. Things such as soft matter/dynamics research require computing power, numerical analysis, statistics and understanding of the inner structures. For unknown souls, you may like to watch directly into the dragon's mouth &lt;a href=&quot;http://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=viscosity+bike+lubrication&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Do not think that this question is solved even if I accept an answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-04-16T20:53:44.527" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T20:53:44.527" Title="How do you evaluate and choose chain lubricants?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;evaluation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2690" CreationDate="2011-02-07T21:32:57.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have SPDs on my commuter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Easy to clip out of, you can walk in the shoes, shoes are cheaper, you can still (just about) use the pedals with ordinary shoes in an emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T21:32:57.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2738" CreationDate="2011-02-07T21:35:38.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really - the only 'scientific' thing they could really quote would be viscosity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you care about is also how long it lasts, how much road crud it picks up, how it handles salt, how it is in rain - and all over the temperature range from -30C to +30C depending where you live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps - ok with the new title, my algorithm is: go to my LBS, confess that I've just been using cheap 3in1 oil from the DIY store and ask what they use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-02-08T00:17:29.737" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T00:17:29.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2011-02-07T23:19:43.693" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things off the top of my head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not enough brake cable tension.  This is very likely if it's fairly new and hasn't been tuned up -- brake cables stretch over time, especially when new.  The amount of stretch can be more than the barrel adjuster can compensate for, so you would need to actually pull more cable through the cable clamp on the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Broken (or worn out) caliper spring.  Less likely, but you should be able to see if it's broken, depending on the model of brake.  Your LBS might also be able to replace the spring rather than buying a whole new caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frayed cable or housing causes cable to &quot;catch&quot; and not spring back.  Might be harder to find, you'll need to inspect the cables and housing for damage (may need to pull the cable out completely).  The good news is that these are relatively cheap &amp;amp; easy to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T23:19:43.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2743" CreationDate="2011-02-08T08:13:17.983" Score="26" ViewCount="5867" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it advisable to shift both the front and back gear simultaneously? Can this cause any damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T11:51:23.683" Title="Can you shift both the front and back gears simultanously?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2742" CreationDate="2011-02-08T10:32:11.120" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with doing this. It works well to shift the rear 1 or 2 shorter when shifting the front 1 taller (and vice versa) to avoid big steps in gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T10:32:11.120" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2745" CreationDate="2011-02-08T14:53:06.430" Score="40" ViewCount="182985" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a question for mountain bike tyres but I can't seem to find anything on here for road bikes. At the moment I'm running at around 90psi. Is that too much? too little?  Also, am I more likely to get punctures running at higher pressure?  I seem to be getting a lot lately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastEditorUserId="1075" LastEditDate="2011-02-08T15:00:28.230" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T21:35:34.650" Title="What pressure should I run my Road Bike tyres at?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2011-02-08T15:04:07.800" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;All other things being equal, run them as high as the tyre manufacturer recommends (there will be an advisory notice on the tyre wall). For most tyres of even medium quality, this should be at least 100psi, if not 110; higher end tyres might go up to 130+. (I generally inflate both tyres to similar pressures, but I think that there are some theories that if either were to be higher, that should be the rear, because it carries the majority of the weight.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, the higher the pressure and the harder the tyre, the fewer punctures you should expect as the surface should be better at repelling objects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should keep tyres topped up, natural leakage occurs and at the higher pressures you might expect 10-20 psi drift within a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When re-inflating, you should also take the opportunity to inspect the tyres. Any deformity or wear will be sure to be far more obvious and damaging when the tyre is inflated to the limits of its recommended pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only caveat is in poor weather, where a reduction in pressure increases the contact area and introduces give, which should make for enhanced traction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2011-02-08T15:09:07.823" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T15:09:07.823" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2011-02-08T15:06:57.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always run mine around the recommended 120psi (recommended on the tire wall).  You can let a little air out for some &quot;old skool&quot; suspension or add a touch for a firmer ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure of your weight, but this may be a cause for your punctures, which is why you get a better response around 90psi.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1086" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T15:06:57.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2742" CreationDate="2011-02-08T15:38:08.113" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the tension of the chain, you might be slightly more likely to jump, e.g. going from big to little on both front and back at the same time is increasing the slack in the chain &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; moving it in both directions (front to the left, back to the right). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So depending on the timing, not only will the slack need to be damped out and the indexing might not be as accurate as you'd like, you're also possibly pulling the chain from one end, away from its target at the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think is damaging &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt;, but a jumped chain is to be avoided if you can help it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T15:38:08.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2011-02-08T20:10:55.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing what type of tire you are running, that question is hard to answer.  For instanct, a 700x23 will be higher (like 120psi) than a 700x28 which will be lower (like 90psi).  Generally tires give a range, the lower number will have more cushion but run slower and pinch-flat easier.  Higher end will roll better and resist pinch-flats, but can cause a harsh ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T20:10:55.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2698" CreationDate="2011-02-08T20:19:03.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When looking at components they do have to match.  If you are moving to a 7-speed in the rear, you will need to get a 7-speed shifter to match.  As long as you stick with the same brand shifter (Shimano or SRAM for instance) you can use the same rear deraileur (the thing that moves the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the front, for the most part they are all compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much you are willing to give up, you can change your bike over to a single speed setup, and not have to worry about shifters at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T20:19:03.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2681" CreationDate="2011-02-08T20:26:25.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They do roll over objects easier, if you google angle of incidence it will explain why.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also tend to keep momentum better, since the weight is farther from the axle.  That same distance is why they will accelerate slower.  Think of a tennis ball on a string.  short string easy to get going and stop.  Longer, harder to get going but will keep moving easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a traction advantange since the contact patch is larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T20:26:25.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2730" CreationDate="2011-02-08T22:53:41.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.progoldmfr.com/products2/ProLink_Chain_Lube.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pro Gold&lt;/a&gt;. Year round, all weather. Road bike. Commuter bike. Mountain bike. I started using Pro Gold after &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zinncycles.com/book_and_dvd.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lennard Zinn's&lt;/a&gt; recommendation in his road bike maintenance book. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the Pro Gold company got their start making lubricants for mining equipment. So think of lubricating metal in very adverse conditions. Anyway, the downside to their bike chain lube is that it can be hard to locate locally. It's available online though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro Gold has a spray as well, but I rarely use spray lubes so don't have experience with that one. Basically because it's less controllable. Also, haven't tried the paraffin method...mainly because it looks like too much work. &lt;em&gt;Actually, turns out that I do have some spray Pro Gold. The only difference is that the spray has propellents. I don't use it on my bike though.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T00:39:17.003" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T00:39:17.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2764" CreationDate="2011-02-08T22:58:08.053" Score="-3" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for different types of lubricants, chains, small metal parts such as a Tubus rack-hinge and just small things that wear easily off -- so-called consumables. I am fed up to high prices locally, usually better to buy new stuff, reusing to the dogs. Which online shopping sites do you use for your small consumables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T17:47:10.720" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T06:41:30.107" Title="Cheap Online Shopping for Small Consumables?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2020-04-04T08:29:37.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2704" CreationDate="2011-02-09T00:01:14.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean chunkier chain and cassette, usually cheaper? If so, I suspect cheaper is the main benefit. But you do get more metal with the cheaper chains and cassettes, so perhaps they will last longer in the muck. Since the derailler system will only last one winter, the less you spend on it the better. As Paul James said, you can't fit singlespeed chain and expect it to work with derailleur gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO a better solution is a chaincase on the hub geared bike and stick to that in winter. Even the something like the Hebie Chainglider will help a lot and is easier to retrofit than a proper chaincase (http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/product/chainglider-33772). The full metal case (or fragile plastic on the modern Dutch bikes) means you can basically ignore the chain unless you actually immerse it in water. Possibly one of the Hebie products that gives less coverage will help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A DIY version of that is to use black plastic poly pipe (from a garden shop) over the horizontal parts of the chain. You only need a metre of it so cost isn't really an issue. Recumbents use this all the time because they usually have a lot of chain and run it close to the rider, so it's a &quot;known good&quot; solution for them. Whether it actually helps on a safety bike I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T00:01:14.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="692" CreationDate="2011-02-09T00:29:23.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, many experts now recommend just wiping off dirt from the chain with a wet or oily cloth, possibly using some soapy water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While degreasers and other solvents will remove oily dirt from the chain surface, they will also remove the lubricant from &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the chain, thus greatly increasing friction and wear. The dirt will typically stay inside, because it is not soluble :-/.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Rohloff (producers of the Speedhub 14-gear hub gear, and of the SLT-99 chain), recommend avoiding solvents when cleaning a chain: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/de/technik/kettentrieb/kettenreinigung/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kettenreinigung&lt;/a&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20110816135849/http://www.rohloff.de:80/de/technik/kettentrieb/kettenreinigung/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;archived version&lt;/a&gt;) / &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/en/technology/chaindrive/chain_cleaning/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chain cleaning&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160317192419/http://www.rohloff.de/en/technology/chaindrive/chain_cleaning/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;archived version&lt;/a&gt;). They claim that solvents will not be able to remove dirt from inside the chain (where it causes problems), but will stay inside the chain themselves, and later interfere with the operation of the lubricant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only a very dirty chain should be cleaned intensively. We do not&#xA;  recommend any of the currently available chain cleaning devices&#xA;  because the liquids used normally have a very negative effect in the&#xA;  chain links. The links will not be free from particles after the&#xA;  application but the cleaning liquid will mix with the lubricant which&#xA;  in most cases destroys its lubricating feature. Therefore, before&#xA;  using a cleaning liquid, test it by mixing it with the lubricant you&#xA;  use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We recommend cleaning liquids which do not have 100% degreasing&#xA;  effect, such as diesel or paraffin. Products based on modern&#xA;  washing-up liquids are generally environmently more friendly. These&#xA;  work quite well and can be easily washed out of the link with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, consider that a bicycle chain is really a consumable, as they only last about 1,000-4,000 km (at least with derailleurs). So if your chain is really, really, dirty, consider just bringing forward the next chain change...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastEditorUserId="1093" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T10:48:07.353" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T10:48:07.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2760" CreationDate="2011-02-09T00:54:49.083" Score="24" ViewCount="4376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regularly (almost daily) ride my bike, often in bad weather. I mostly ride on roads, but sometimes through parks, forest etc. on unpaved surfaces. My bike is usually rather dirty, at least the lower parts, especially when the weather is rainy. I do have mudguards, but they can't keep off everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to keep it reasonably clean, both because it looks nicer and to avoid unneccesary wear. On the other hand, I don't want to spend an hour every week keeping it clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would you recommend as a cleaning routine that strikes a reasonable balance? Just hose it down? Only wipe critical parts? Use some wonder cleaner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And are there functional problems or increased wear due to dirt, or is it mostly an asthetic problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Related question (more about maintenance in general):&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/89/periodic-maintenance-task-for-bike-commuters&quot;&gt;Periodic maintenance tasks for bike commuters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T10:46:42.390" Title="Practical cleaning routine for a commuter bike" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2756" CreationDate="2011-02-09T01:00:25.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't hose it down unless you also enjoy rebuilding/regreasing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2758#2758&quot;&gt;bearings&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have somewhere dry to put it (shed/garage) just brush off the dried dirt/mud in the morning. Especially dirt underneath the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2759#2759&quot;&gt;bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt; where the rear cables go under the frame and around the axles / pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a week I clean the chain and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1696/8&quot;&gt;re-oil&lt;/a&gt; it (you might have to do this more often depending on how many miles / how bad the weather is) I also check and oil the brake/gear cables and brake pivots etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run your finger over the spokes to just check if any are loose, at least once/week - daily if you have rough off road sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T04:28:51.917" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-02-09T04:28:18.873" Score="17" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Bearing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bearing is an interface between parts that turn and parts that do not. They enable an axle or other part to roll on steel balls. The hubs in the wheels contain bearings, as do the bottom bracket, the headset in the head tube, and the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheldon Brown on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ba-n.html#bearing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bearings&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8tJjy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wheel bearing -- from Park Tool site&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard bicycle wheel bearing consists of an axle, a hub, two cones, two locknuts, and a number of steel balls.  In both ends of the axle is a concave section known as the &amp;quot;cup&amp;quot; that the balls sit in.  The &amp;quot;cone&amp;quot;, threaded onto the axle, contacts the balls from the other side, and together the cup and cone retain the balls and serve as the surfaces against which the balls roll. The picture above shows a cup and cone bearing assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The locknut secures the cone so that it doesn't thread in or out as the hub turns relative to the (stationary) axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearings in the bottom bracket and headset are similar except that the cup part is stationary and the axle turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bearings are also available in cartridge form, where the bearing cup with bearings inside is sold as a unit. The cartridge is then pressed into a seat in the appropriate part, e.g. the bike's bottom bracket assembly or the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many bearing assemblies have some level of sealing, which reduces the amount of dirt or water that get into the bearings. In general, the more tightly sealed the bearing, the more drag it will have and the more power it will take to turn the attached axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bearings require periodic maintenance, typically cleaning and regreasing. Cartridge bearings are often replaced entirely, although they can be maintained as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ball bearings and the races they turn on may be made of ceramic. Ceramic bearings have industrial applications in very rapidly rotating parts. On bikes, they likely reduce drag very slightly, but they are very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T16:30:52.180" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-09T04:28:18.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-02-09T04:30:45.453" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Bottom Bracket&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom bracket (BB) is an assembly that contains bearings and sometimes the axle that the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3157#3157&quot;&gt;cranks&lt;/a&gt; attach to. The bottom bracket shell is the part of the frame holding the bottom bracket. The bearings often have seals to keep dirt out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Threaded bottom brackets&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditional bottom brackets screw into the bottom bracket shell. BB axles/spindles for threaded bottom brackets can be square tapered (in two standards, the more common Japanese International Standard and ISO, used by Campagnolo and a minority of manufacturers) or oversized (Shimano Hollowtech or International Spline Interface Standard, or ISIS). Generally, the oversized spindles were stiffer due to being larger, but had smaller bearings and may have had poorer bearing life. The crankarms were then fixed on to each side of the axle with retaining bolts. In older threaded systems, the bottom bracket contains the crank axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;External bottom bracket cups came into play in the early 2000s. Here, the bottom bracket assembly contains only the bearings, and the crank axle is attached to one or both crankarms. The axle goes through the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among bikes with threaded BBs, the majority conform to the English standard. Many Italian frames used the Italian standard. A modern oversized standard called T47 is seeing increased adoption. This has an internal diameter of 46mm (compared to the 35mm diameter of the British standard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most threaded BBs, the bearings are not accessible for maintenance. Users will frequently discard them when they are worn out. It is possible for users to damage the threads when installing BBs, e.g. by forcing a BB in at an angle. A bike store can chase the threads to attempt to restore them. If the threads are beyond repair, it is possible to ream and re-tap a British threaded BB to the Italian BB standard, because the latter has a slightly larger diameter (36mm vs 35mm for BSA). This will have to be done cautiously, and not all shops will have the necessary tools. Also, Italian BBs are right hand threaded on both sides, so the drive-side cup may unscrew as you pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Press-fit bottom brackets&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, various press-fit bottom bracket standards were developed where the frame contains a molded seat for bearing cups. It is not possible to cut threads into carbon fiber. The alternative to press fit involves bonding a threaded alloy sleeve into the frame, and press fit is simpler and lighter. In some press-fit arrangements, most notably Trek's older BB90 standard, the cartridge bearings sit directly on the BB shell itself, rather than in cups that are pressed into the shell. (NB: Trek appears to be phasing this standard out at the time of writing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous standards for press-fit bottom brackets. Cups for one standard are not interchangeable with a different standard. However, for each press fit BB standard, manufacturers will make cups to accept most or all cranksets on the market. Examples of open standards include BB86 and Press Fit 30. Some larger bike manufacturers have BB standards proprietary to their own frames, such as Cervelo, Cannondale, and in the past, Trek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Selecting a Bottom Bracket&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, users looking to install a BB and crankset from scratch would determine the frame's BB standard, then find a bottom bracket in that standard that matches their desired crankset axle type and diameter. On many press-fit BBs, users or bike stores can service worn bearings (i.e. clean and re-grease them) without replacing the cups, or extract the bearings from the cups. Naturally, the cups themselves can be replaced. Creaking is a known problem with press-fit BBs, and it is caused if the BB shell was manufactured out of specification (or if the shell got enlarged over time from a loose-fitting BB).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current generation cranks can have axles ranging from 24mm (Shimano) to 30mm (so-called BB30 cranks). Any crank can be mounted on a bike with any bottom bracket shell type. Some companies even make bottom brackets for older (e.g. BSA) threaded shells and 30mm axles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that there are eccentric bottom brackets, which are really a bottom bracket that goes inside of an offset bottom bracket shell that fits inside the frame's bottom bracket shell. This allows the bottom bracket to be moved a bit, to tension the chain on a single-speed or fixed-gear bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheldon Brown on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bottom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bottom brackets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2020-11-02T23:09:17.133" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T23:09:17.133" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-09T04:30:45.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2756" CreationDate="2011-02-09T06:20:38.467" Score="13" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Overview&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As needed or as inspired, rinse off bike with water, clean with soapy water and degreaser, wipe down, rinse off. In practice, I do this every month or two or... of commuting. And yes, there are advantages to cleaning your bike; a clean bike will last longer, perform better, and serve as proof of the love of a proud owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Materials&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rags&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sponges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bucket filled with warm water and soap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scrub brush with plastic bristles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simple green or citri-solve in spray bottle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Methods&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse bike off with water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Liberally apply soapy water to entire bike with sponge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe dirt off everywhere except drivetrain with sponge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe dirt off drivetrain with a dedicated greasy sponge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spray drivetrain with degreaser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wipe down drivetrain with rag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rinse again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply lube to drivetrain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove excess lube with rag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Notes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this answer focuses on cleaning the bike, but cleaning is also a good opportunity to check the bike for mechanical issues, including worn or loose parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all other parts, including frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T06:26:24.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1068" CreationDate="2011-02-09T09:25:03.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, most modern hubs and bottom brackets are designed not to need service. Bottom brackets in particular are often constructed in a way that they cannot be disassembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike (good quality, but not top-of-the-line) is about 7 years old, and I ride around 2,000 km per year. I have never serviced the hubs or bottom bracket, so far without any problems. I don't do extreme off-road riding, but I do cycle in winter and in the rain, plus the bike is sometimes parked in the rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are not using your bike under extreme conditions, you may not need to worry about maintaining the bearings at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T09:25:03.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2011-02-09T10:59:46.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discovered &lt;a href=&quot;http://fitness.strands.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fitness&lt;/a&gt; on Strands.com and really like it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T10:59:46.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2752" CreationDate="2011-02-09T16:08:25.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For small consumables I tend to use the same places as for the large ones: if I'm going online it will be mainly to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiggle&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chain Reaction&lt;/a&gt; (I'm UK-based, so these might not ship or be as competitively priced in other locales). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do try and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2028/how-should-i-negotiate-price-with-bicycle-salespeople/2031#2031&quot;&gt;support my LBS&lt;/a&gt;, though, even if they're more expensive: better to pay 10% more and have the option of a well-stocked, local physical shop for urgent needs (or a slow chat) than save a bit of cash but left up a tree in the next emergency, but sometimes online savings are just too much to ignore ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T16:08:25.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2011-02-09T18:03:25.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike lockers and garages, e.g. at commuter rail interchanges: &quot;safety&quot; as in &quot;your bike not being stolen&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T18:03:25.163" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-09T18:03:25.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2011-02-09T18:30:07.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ciclosport.de/statische/contentframe.php4?content=shop,id%3D1034,,,2&amp;amp;navid=shop_28_68&amp;amp;sessionid=45905179&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CicloSport&lt;/a&gt; for a number of years. (Not the one linked...mine is older.) They make a number of models both with and without GPS that contain your desired feature set. I have 6 or 7 years of ride data generated by the CicloSport and a workshop wall of printed ride graphs. It tracks distance, speeds, elevation profiles, temperature, HR data, cadence, etc. And the price range is much less than a Garmin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had been considering using my Android phone as the bike computer. However, there are size, battery life and mounting issues that are leading me to prefer a dedicated cyclometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-14T18:01:03.447" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T18:01:03.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2780" CreationDate="2011-02-09T18:56:23.237" Score="28" ViewCount="11401" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the (distant) past I commuted 6 km (more than half an hour) each way, on a cheap bike with big knobbly tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon I'll have a new commute: 18 km each way, daily. That's much further than I've done in the past, and I don't want it to take 2 hours each way; but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gobiking.ca/commuting/index.html&quot;&gt;this reading&lt;/a&gt; suggests that it's feasible: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most people who reside 10 to 20 kilometres away will also find it quite easy to cycle to work, although the distance in the high end of this range will become a little more demanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can do it in 80 minutes or even less each way, that would be ideal. I'm 49 years old, 6 foot tall, and weigh 170lb, and I want to commute by bike because otherwise I'd be getting no exercise in my week at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never bought or ridden anything but a cheap bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What equipment should I buy then, to commute 11 miles each way through a city (Toronto) on  flat, paved roads, shared with cars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyres?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clipless pedals and shoes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gears?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebars (e.g. flat or dropped)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame (size, shape, material)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mud-guard/fender?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-09-11T19:37:03.680" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T14:49:39.767" Title="What bike+equipment for a long daily urban commute?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2011-02-09T19:31:47.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first time I successfully learned to balance was on a grassy slope in a park. The slope was pronounced but not large: a total height/drop of maybe 3 or 4 feet, and maybe 10 degrees of slope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of a slope is that, before I tried it, when I was trying to learn to cycle on the flat I found it to difficult/impossible to learn to balance, steer, and pedal all at the same time: because pedaling pushed my weight from side to side ... whereas free-wheeling down a slope, I could learn about just steering: steering into the direction I was falling over into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the point of its being grassy, as opposed to paved, is probably obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T03:51:41.183" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T03:51:41.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2767" CreationDate="2011-02-09T19:40:37.610" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to your local bike shop or MEC and talk to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want a commuter - also called urban bikes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thin(ish) tires so you aren't doing too much work, straight bars, hydraulic disk brakes would be good. Hub gears mean everything is internal so out of the weather - but if anything goes wrong you're stuck, dérailleur gears are fine if you clean the chain regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get fenders, some good lights and some sort of bright waterproof.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cycle shorts look silly but are comfortable - this time of year in Toronto you will want something long and warm on top of them !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would leave clipless pedals until you have a bit more confidence, riding in traffic is bad enough without also worrying about unclipping at each traffic light. When you do get clipless look for SPD (ie. mountain bike pedals) you can walk in the shoes more easily than the ones used for road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to do 25km/h on a commuter sort of bike without too much effort so that's a 45min trip.  Check out the route on Google maps or a local bike group site - finding side streets with no traffic and avoiding unnecessary hills makes a lot of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps. One other tip - carry a bus ticket. Don't know about Toronto but most Canadian buses have bike racks. If you have a mechanical problem or the weather is just too bad you can always get a ride home. It makes commuting much more doable if you have a backup!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T20:02:03.300" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T20:02:03.300" CommentCount="22" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2767" CreationDate="2011-02-09T20:04:01.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ten years ago, you could either get a mountain bike or a road bike and then modify. Nowadays, there are some really nice hybrids on the market designed for the commuter. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/urban/&quot;&gt;Trek&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCMain.jsp?scid=1002&quot;&gt;Specialized&lt;/a&gt;, and others...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires - You'll want slicks or light treads. Knobby tires will just slow you down on roads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clipless - Yes. If you're not familiar with clipless you'll have to learn to use them before getting on the road. It doesn't take long. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebars - Flat or dropped will depend on what you prefer and find comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mud guards/Fenders - Definitely! These are a &quot;must&quot; if you ride in wet weather.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame - Probably don't need a carbon frame. Aluminum or steel should work just fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels - I'd go with a wheel that takes 700 x (28 - 38) tires. I would not go with mtn bike sizing in the situation you describe. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll add a rear rack and panniers. And a lighting system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T20:26:49.283" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T20:26:49.283" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2772" CreationDate="2011-02-09T21:59:45.310" Score="10" ViewCount="2338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2658/8&quot;&gt;cleaning my cruiser today&lt;/a&gt;, and as part of that I removed the tires from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/825#825&quot;&gt;rims&lt;/a&gt; to give them a good scrubbing. As sometimes happens, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/284#284&quot;&gt;tubes&lt;/a&gt; were stuck to the insides of the tires. (This also happens with some of my other bikes sometimes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was able to slowly peel the deflated tubes away from the tires, this can't be good for them! Is there a way that this can be avoided when reinstalling the tubes and tires onto the rims? This bike &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/8/8&quot;&gt;has had slow leaks in the past&lt;/a&gt;, and I'd like to take precautions against that happening again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T20:04:54.410" Title="How can one prevent a tube from sticking to the inside of a tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;26-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2771" CreationDate="2011-02-09T22:10:28.953" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baby powder works great and is very inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T22:10:28.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2011-02-10T02:57:19.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vehicle bike racks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike racks can be attached to cars, buses, vans, or any kind of vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racks are useful because they hold a bike more safely than tossing it into a car or a truck. Cars also sometimes require removing the front wheel in order to fit a bike in the vehicle, and using a bike rack eliminates that requirement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roof mounted racks are cheapest if you already have cargo rails on your car. They have a big effect on your gas consumption and you have to be able to lift the bike up that high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yo14c.png&quot; alt=&quot;roof mounted rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear mounted racks attach to a trailer hitch or a 'hidden hitch', they are easiest to mount bikes on and the rack can be removed when you aren't using it. If they block the license plate or rear light they might be illegal in your country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y9PEY.png&quot; alt=&quot;rear hitch rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheapest option if your car doesn't have the mounting points is a clip on rear rack. They have adjustable straps that hook over the trunk or hatchback. Don't hold as many bikes or as securely as a hitch mounted rack but are cheap to fit and can go on any car.  On a hatchback you can usually mount them above the license plate and lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FpuvT.png&quot; alt=&quot;hook on rear rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-02-23T18:07:53.603" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T18:07:53.603" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-10T02:57:19.230" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2767" CreationDate="2011-02-10T07:10:31.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm driving a 1980ies racing bike in the allmost flat city Berlin, and I'm rarely (once per month) overtaken by other cyclists. I'm cycling distances of 5 to 10 km per direction, 2 or 3 times the week, and my experience is, that I don't get above 20 km/h (average for the whole way), because of traffic lights, give way signs and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the way &lt;em&gt;to&lt;/em&gt; work, I wouldn't like to get to much exhausted, or may you take a shower at work? While on the way back you may, of course, give all you have. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1063" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T07:10:31.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:05:34.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the other answers, I would recommend putting on special trousers for cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For colder/wet weather, I use long cycling or hiking trousers (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vaude.com/epages/Vaude-de.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Vaude/Products/01279/SubProducts/012790100470&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;); those have the additional advantage of protecting from cold an rain. You can either put them on instead of your regular pants, then change at work (more comfortable, less wear on regular trousers, but awkward to change in public), or just put them over your regular trousers (easier to change, and warmer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For warm weather, I just use common Lycra-type cycling shorts. Yes, they are not very stylish, but they are very comfortable for riding, and changing into regular trousers is quite fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional option, particularly for short distances where changing trousers is too much hassle, are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vaude.com/epages/Vaude-de.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Vaude/Products/01279/SubProducts/012790100470&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bike gaiters&lt;/a&gt;. They are easier to pack and quicker to put on/take off than cycling trousers, but protect shoes and lower legs from dirt (and rain). They are also a good alternative to rain-proof trousers, if you wear a poncho.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g9xem.png&quot; alt=&quot;Vaude bike gaiter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T18:19:53.993" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T18:19:53.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2752" CreationDate="2011-02-10T14:30:11.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nashbar.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;amazon.com&lt;/a&gt; (they have everything it seems)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pricepoint.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pricepoint.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also use a &quot;shopping bot&quot; like Google Shopping if I know the exact brand of what I am looking for.  It will often find deals from online shops that I didn't even know about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T14:30:11.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2011-02-10T16:30:56.547" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One-way streets that are open to cyclists in both directions. These are becoming more and more popular in Germany, where they are commonly called &quot;unechte Einbahnstraßen&quot; (&quot;mock one-way streets&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cities, one-way streets often exist no because the road is really too narrow, but simply to limit the number of cars passing through. At the same time, such one-way streets are a real hindrance to cyclists, who prefer smaller streets. Mock one-way streets nicely solve this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UF3jn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One-way cycle exemption (&amp;quot;except&amp;quot;) in Vienna&amp;#39;s old city&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I worked in a bicycle advocacy group (ADFC) which has been promoting these for years. Often, local authorities, especially police, have grave security concerns - but experience and research have shown that they are quite safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HtcNG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sign for Unechte Einbahnstraße&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastEditorUserId="1683" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T21:17:24.617" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T21:17:24.617" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-10T16:30:56.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2445" CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:14:06.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My plain black Pasela 700X32C tire measures only about 29mm on a fairly standard road rim. Had it a couple of years, so it may be older production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1103" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T17:14:06.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2767" CreationDate="2011-02-10T19:51:31.140" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here I'll summarize everyone else's answers (because of all the Q+A scattered through in the comments), with some additional information that I got elsewhere from reading inspired by people's answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheels+tires: 700 x (28 - 38, maybe ~30), tires; slicks or light treads, not knobbly. The larger wheel makes it faster (because of 'gearing') and the ride a little smoother (because of the 'angle of incidence' when rolling over an obstacle). Possibly puncture-resistant tires, especially if you experience many puntures. Reinflate them weekly. With the narrower tires, beware storm drains, streetcar tracks, dirt roads, and cornering especially fast and on wet roads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedals and shoes: up to 35%-50% more efficient than without, but practice with them for 1/2 day to 2 weeks away from traffic first, because you must expect to fall off (everyone does). The normal type of clipless, for commuting, would be SPD: SPD are not impossible to walk in (unlike some other types). The stiffer the sole of the shoe, the better it distributes force over the whole sole of your foot. {Prefer a system which lets you clip onto either side of each pedal?}&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gears: multi-speed (e.g. 7, 8, or even 14-speed) &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1728#1728&quot;&gt;internal-hub gears&lt;/a&gt; cost $300+ (which is more than derailleurs), and tend to exist only on more expensive (above $1000) bikes; internal-hub gears means lower maintenance, chain is less likely to fall off, easier to have a chain guard even, and you can change gears while stopped, maybe 2% less efficient that derailleurs, and takes a different kind of chain. Derailleurs are more common. A 2-position rather than 3-position derailleur on the front would be adequate if there are no hills.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Handlebars: as you wish (however, many/most people recommend flat instead of dropped); at commuting speeds it's more a matter of comfort than aerodynamics (and a more upright position is deemed more comfortable). Dropped affords more wrist positions; you can ask for interrupter levers on dropped handlebars, to access the brakes from more than one hand position/location.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brakes: disc brakes work better or more reliably than rim brakes, especially when the road is wet (or the wheel isn't true); and if you go downhill at 70 kph you might want hydraulic disc and not just mechanical disk brakes (hydraulics are more expensive, are difficult or impossible to self-maintain, require less or no maintenance or routine cable adjustments, and require less finger-force to actuate).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frame: not too important i.e. no-one offered advice on that; as long as (for speed) it's not a mountain bike, especially not a bike with suspension (suspension is inefficient). Aluminium isn't lighter than steel, because it's not as strong (and therefore there needs to be more of it). Aluminium is stiffer than equivalent steel, so (for comfort) higher-end bikes add (more expensive) carbon forks and/or seat posts to aluminium. Aluminium won't rust.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Other equipment: lights; fenders/mudguards; rack and/or saddlebag and/or panniers; bike lock[s] (maybe one chain and one U-lock: not a cable, which is easy to snip); maybe mirrors (you can/should shoulder-check as well, but many/most urban bike accidents happen while the rider isn't looking ahead); maybe a trip computer; a tire pump, able to inflate to about 110 psi (so not just a little hand-pump); bus fare (in case of a flat or irreparable tire, or horrific weather).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Store: find a &quot;good&quot; Local Bike Store (LBS), where you can meet the mechanics (a &quot;good LBS for commuting&quot; isn't necessarily the same as &quot;good for road-racing&quot; or &quot;good for MTB&quot;). Pretty much any decent LBS will allow ~30 minute ride: take a few for a test-ride, before you buy, to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2795&quot;&gt;see which one feels right&lt;/a&gt;. Furthermore, expect to pay &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2781/how-much-maintenance/2783#2783&quot;&gt;at least $600/year in maintenance costs&lt;/a&gt; (as much or more than the cost of buying the bike), visiting the shop at least 3 times/year: which is another reason why it's important to find a &quot;good&quot; LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speed: expect to average 20 kph at most, in the city, when there are stops and lights etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cost: a decent $700 (including brakes and gears but perhaps excluding 'extras' like lights) bike from a good store should be &quot;great&quot; (but it won't have internal-hub gears, nor hydraulic disk brakes, nor any carbon components)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional comments or advice will be welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T19:29:01.730" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2783" CreationDate="2011-02-10T22:11:44.753" Score="38" ViewCount="7284" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2767/1097&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; (with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2767/what-bikeequipment-for-a-long-daily-urban-commute/2780#2780&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;) I asked about a commuter bike, which is to be ridden 40 km every weekday, in the city. And apparently for this scenario I can choose either of two possible kinds of bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A $700 bike with derailleurs, rim brakes, and 700 wheels ... I image that this is an extremely standard, common type of bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A $1250 bike with hub gears, hydraulic disc brakes, 700 wheels, and carbon forks and seat post ... these are higher-end features and it's rare to find them so cheap (and may require a much less local LBS).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked at a LBS (whose specialty is commuter bikes) about, what is the difference between say one of their $600 and $800 bikes; and the answer was, &quot;better components, more durability&quot;: that more expensive wheels are 'stronger', etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any insight into how much, quantitatively, more-durable versus less-durable means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some arguments (perhaps the main/only arguments) for hub gears and hydraulic brakes are &quot;less or no maintenance&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much maintenance (not just what type of maintenance, but how much) does a cheaper bike require? How much less does a more expensive one? And/or, how much longer will more expensive components last? Might the more expensive components actually be more costly to maintain (because they're more difficult to service and more costly to replace), but require service less often?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T14:33:24.267" Title="How much does bike price correspond with maintenance needs?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2781" CreationDate="2011-02-10T22:40:30.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there's a diminishing returns on this, but on the really cheap end of things, no amount of maintenance will actually get things to work properly. You could end up with wheels that just cannot be trued, gears that never shift cleanly, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, I'm thinking of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/887#887&quot;&gt;BSO&lt;/a&gt;s, not something you'd find at your &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/254#254&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to give the bikes I commute on some maintenance monthly, and take them in for a tuneup every 500-1000mi or so. I don't ride any internally geared bikes though, so I can't really say how often I feel they need service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T16:47:25.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2781" CreationDate="2011-02-10T23:26:48.467" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheaper bike will probably require you to adjust the brakes and gears plus lube the chain every week or two, and a bike shop to replace the brake pads, chain and cassette every 3-20Mm. For you, that's probably twice in the winter, once in the summer. With rim brakes you will also need new rims/wheels every couple of years, more often if the roads are gritty. But a lot depends on your riding style and the enthusiasm you have for maintenance (hence the 3-20 range). If &quot;lube the chain every week&quot; actually means &quot;the bike shop does that every month or two&quot;, they'll probably be putting on a new chain. Count a monthly service at ~$50 and the chain/cassette/pads as $200 and that's $1000/year in maintenance, or $600 if you do the monthly service yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that you can skimp on all of this and it just means slightly more expensive fixes and a slightly worse riding experience (gears that skip under power, more resistance from damaged bearings, cables or chains the break, brakes that don't really work). When I was a mechanic I saw bikes where basically everything needed to be replaced, but people were still riding them (and just wanted a puncture fixed or a new basket or something). The bad riding experience means an hour for your 18km commute instead of 40 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With hub gears and disk brakes, especially with a full chain case, you'll lube the chain every couple of months, put new brake pads in every year or two, and I expect that replacing tyres will become your main dirty maintenance task. With a single-cable hub (Shimano, SRAM) you'll have to adjust the gears after a couple of months (the free service) then again a few months before you need a new gear cable. If you run Marathons or some other puncture-resistant tyre you should wear the tyre out without getting a puncture (a puncture is often the thing that makes you look at the tyre and go &quot;need a new one&quot;. I run a Marathon Plus on the rear and have only had one puncture in at least 20Mm. I did get a 3&quot; nail through one though (with no puncture!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those numbers are why people often end up with a dedicated commuter bike that costs a fortune up front. New Rohloff Oil every year at $20 compared to a new Shimano hub every three years at $800 makes the $2000 up front cost of a Rohloff seem cheap (a Rohloff will last 100,000 kilometres or more... no-one really knows because there aren't many hubs that have done that distance yet, Rohloff only started about 10 years ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T02:25:44.167" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T02:25:44.167" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2011-02-10T23:41:47.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike paths with sensor-operated traffic lights at road crossings. In Christchurch (NZ) there's a path next to the railway line where the sensors are timed so that a cyclist at 20-30kph gets a green light at the crossing (most of the time, in rush hour there's a longer car cycle). It makes riding that route quite joyous. Almost like the Netherlands :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T23:41:47.383" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-10T23:41:47.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2781" CreationDate="2011-02-10T23:45:35.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a $700 hybrid with a 9 speed chain and hydraulic brakes.&#xA;Fit a new chain ($30) and new tires ($55/pair) and an LBS service for the brakes+new pads ($75) twice a year. But I'm doing 50km/day (1000km/month)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T23:45:35.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2781" CreationDate="2011-02-11T00:51:17.033" Score="18" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Chains&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_chain#Wear&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a lot of information here&lt;/a&gt; about why chains wear, how long they might last, how to tell when they need replacing, and what happens if you don't when they need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1000 km (cross-country, or all-weather abuse)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3-5000 km (well-maintained derailer chains)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more than 6,000 km for perfectly groomed high-quality chains, single-gear, or hub-gear chains (preferably with a full cover chain guard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're doing 800 km/month, then you ought to replace chains maybe monthly if you don't clean and lube them every week, otherwise 2-3 times/year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cassettes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some conversations &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-46475.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-387032.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-378159.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; about how often a cassette (i.e. rear derailleur sprockets) might need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consensus there seems to be that a cassette must be changed approximately once for every 2 to 5 chains; and depending on how expensive the cassette is, if you're using a relatively expensive cassette then change the chains more often (to protect the cassette from being abused by a worn chain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other estimates suggested 10-20,000 km for a cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're changing the chains 2-3 times/year then expect to change the cassette once/year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a cassette costs maybe $80 for the part (excluding labour; if it needs changing, the LBS will probably change it when they change the chain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Maintenance schedule&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much maintenance (not just what type of maintenance, but how much) does a cheaper bike require?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get a bike that's too cheap (a 'BSO'): no amount of tuning will be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A maintenance schedule will include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the chain weekly (otherwise, at 40 km/day, expect to replace it and maybe the cassette every month or two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the tire pressures weekly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the brakes and gears monthly (either yourself, or at a bike store)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change tires whenever necessary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have an in-store tune-up 2 or 3 times a year: during which they may change the chain, cassette, brake pads, and tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost of thrice-yearly service, and new parts (pads, chain, and cassette) might be $600/year (or more if you don't do your own weekly chain cleaning, and monthly brake and gear adjustments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And/or, how much longer will more expensive components last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An internal-geared hub should be adjusted/serviced once, after it's installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 7-speed internal-geared hub from Shimano might last 3 years or so, and cost $500 to replace; it's grease-filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An internal-geared hub from Rohloff lasts indefinitely, but costs $1700+ to buy; it's filled with oil instead of grease (change the oil once a year).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an internal-geared hub (unlike with derailleurs) you can fit a chain-guard around the chain: in which case the chain might last twice as long, and want cleaning every two months instead of every week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have rim brakes instead of disk brakes, then you may need to replace the rims (i.e. the wheels) every two years or so. Mechanical disc are cheaper to own than hydraulic disc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T16:24:56.163" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2788" CreationDate="2011-02-11T16:48:46.630" Score="37" ViewCount="14160" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bike shop employee used a tool he said would check the wear on the chain, and said that it should be changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said it took a measurement that meant the chain had expanded, but it is still hard for me understand why I should change the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said that the reason was that the expanded chain links will cause the chain rings to wear down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is one argument and I have no experience with it, to know if it is true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But are there more reasons? How do I know when the chain should be changed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought is to use it until it breaks, but it probably is not the wisest option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T11:00:04.747" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T04:27:34.150" Title="How to know when to change a chain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2787" CreationDate="2011-02-11T16:50:44.560" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can measure the stretch of a chain with a chain gauge (or just a ruler) &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhqUD.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately - the chain links are 1 inch long, so measure 12 of them with a ruler, if they are more than 1/8inch longer than this then they are worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to do this before it wears the rear cogs - it will cause the teeth to wear into sharp pointed spikes = need a new cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T23:46:45.010" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T23:46:45.010" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3474" CreationDate="2011-02-11T16:56:32.987" Score="11" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's painful to pay the local price of 15-30&amp;euro; for a pump that is &quot;very good, durable and small&quot;. To me, it is just consumable that I will use until it breaks, so I have no interest in investing too much in such a thing. How can I know what the pump is like? Are there some factors to look at to judge its quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZP5aE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-04-20T20:34:21.330" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T20:34:21.330" Title="How to know a good pump?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2794" CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:16:00.093" Score="6" ViewCount="1295" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current chain is x9, but it's expensive in eBay. Can I use any 9 speed chain like on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://global.ebay.com/search?PageNumber=1&amp;amp;Query=shimano+9+speed+chain&amp;amp;SortBy=21&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-12T19:59:37.857" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T19:59:37.857" Title="Are all 9 speed chains compatible with all 9 speed systems?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2789" CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:18:20.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good, durable and small is tricky - personally I would get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2792#2792&quot;&gt;track pump&lt;/a&gt; for home and a small cheap pump to carry with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a small pump I would go for simple. So no double rate fast/slow mechanism, no complex foldable handle&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Look for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/283#283&quot;&gt;presta adapter&lt;/a&gt; that won't just come off and get lost (assuming you need one)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Basically just look for solid feeling construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are carrying it on your bike I put electrical tape around the valve end to keep it clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we are recomending individual products, I have one of these as an emergency 'get you home' pump. It's presta (road bike) only, but that means no adapter to lose, it's very small and lives duct-taped to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vJ6n1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T00:26:41.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:22:37.100" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Track pump (or floor pump)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large pump that you use by standing on the bottom plate and moving the handle up and down. You can use both hands and your back to pump a high pressure tire quickly and easily.  Generally for use at home - or at the track - rather than for carrying on the bike. Some manufacturers make portable track pumps which bolt to the down tube for easier inflation of high pressure tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fR3o8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;track pump&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Features to look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sturdy construction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pressure gauge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a head that can be used with both &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/283#283&quot;&gt;Presta&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/284#284&quot;&gt;Schrader&lt;/a&gt; valves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T07:00:33.787" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-11T17:22:37.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:27:22.630" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Chain gauge&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measures the stretch of a chain to determine how worn it is and when to replace it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's made to fit exactly between two separated links of a standard chain.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D4wQ6.gif&quot; alt=&quot;chain guage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately you can measure the chain with a ruler - standard links are 1inch (25.4mm) long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note - the chain doesn't actually stretch, the pins connecting the links wear away making the joints looser. The extra movement reduces efficiency, causes the chain to skip and will wear the rear gear teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T17:27:22.630" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-11T17:27:22.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2790" CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:31:36.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK any 9speed chain made for dérailleur should fit (single speed and hub gear chains are different)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9 speed chains are more expensive, they are thinner and not as common - so fewer cheap brands bother to make them, or stores to stock them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT - the chain is an important part of the bike, a poor quality chain will stick, jump and wear the rear cassette teeth more quickly. You might not want to buy the very cheapest brand you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T17:31:36.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:42:53.447" Score="14" ViewCount="2490" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update...&lt;/em&gt; What should I actually &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; on the test drive? The LBS has been kind enough to allow me to try out a brand new bicycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What things should I consider when test riding bikes that I am considering for purchase at a LBS? And what should my procedure be while on the test ride? Also plan to test ride between 2 - 5 similarly priced bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be a hybrid (urban) bike intended for daily commuting. The LBS will do some minimal adjustments prior to the test ride, so how do I determine if it's a good/bad selection vs needing customized adjustments/fitting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T00:00:52.137" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T17:40:21.237" Title="A test ride for a new bicycle" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;evaluation&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2816" CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:57:27.467" Score="3" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to find moderately-priced 9-speed chain is a pain, particularly with a master/missing link already installed. I can only find PC-971 master-linked chains from US market but shipping and handling ruins the deal. Then, I can find master links (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4483#4483&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) but haven't yet found a chain. Also, the seller will sometimes only ship to a limited number of countries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you buy if you wanted a master-linked 9-speed chain? Would you buy the chain and the link separate or together like in PC-971?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T03:35:34.417" Title="Should I use an already master-linked chain or add a masterlink to a plain chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;master-link&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2787" CreationDate="2011-02-11T18:29:36.723" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the chain has &quot;stretched&quot; it will no longer sit properly on the teeth found on the sprockets and chainrings, symptoms of this point being reached include the chain jumping off the chainring when sufficient pressure  is applied to the pedal. This usually happens when you're trying to pull away after stopping (eg at a junction). Not only is this a pain, but it can also be both dangerous and painful (my foot tended to come off the pedal and the calf/shin smacked into the teeth on the chainring when this happened to me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with leaving the chain until it gets to this state is that it also wears the sprockets at the back and the chainrings at the front. If you allow this to happen, then even buying a new chain won't do you much good as the worn teeth on the other parts of the drive system will prevent the new chain from sitting properly, and may cause the same kinds of problems as were being experienced with the old chain. If you're lucky enough not to have a problem with the chain skipping, the worn teeth will still cause the chain to wear out much faster than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, check you chain fairly regularly, if as mgb says, the chain stretched by more than 1/8 of an inch per foot, change it. Otherwise you might have to replace either the chainrings, the rear cassettes or both. A much more expensive proposition all round especially if you've got a decent chainset fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-08-06T04:27:34.150" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T04:27:34.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:13:41.830" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will want to be sitting in a postion that has your weight mostly on your sit bones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also want to make sure that with your &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2812#2812&quot;&gt;saddle&lt;/a&gt; in the correct position, your knee is over the axle of the pedal when the crank is in the front-most part of it's circle. Too far off and it can put a strain on your knee. If the saddle can't be adjusted to allow this to happen, then you need to look at a different size/type of bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to check the width of the saddle. You want the support to be under your sit bones, otherwise it can get pretty uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you comfortable standing over the bike at a stop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the bike light enough so that you can manuever it onto bike racks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have eyelets for racks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T19:44:19.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3035" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:43:13.210" Score="0" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bought-as-2nd-hand bikes have plastic fender-attachements which tend to break. When they break, the fender starts to make a lot of annoying high-pitched sound. So which fenders do you recommend to replace the plastic junk? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, do not interpret me wrong, the fenders can be plastic but the attachment-things must be designed the right way. I like the design by SKS in their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sks-germany.com/?l=en&amp;amp;a=product&amp;amp;r=News%202011&amp;amp;i=6297801122&amp;amp;BLUEMELS%20MATT&amp;amp;PHPSESSID=d6bfd78fdebf17a0db4d71bc13d98866&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bluemells Matt fenders&lt;/a&gt; but not wanting to pay extra for the aluminum and branding, have used many plastic-mixture with proper attachments and they have never failed me (now not having the bikes at the hand). Not sure but perhaps price-worthy &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.budgetsport.fi/kuvat/isot/56328833.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;product, Sunny Wheels,&lt;/a&gt; but unknown brand -- cannot get it though. So which fenders are long-lasting price-worthy? 28&quot; &#xA;wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Update]&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question has strayed off-topic due to changes by different users and partly due to my ignorance, sorry about that. The main point is not &lt;em&gt;product recommendations&lt;/em&gt;. I am looking for &lt;strong&gt;timeless/intrinsic tips to find/maintain/control/(or buy if you can justify properly) fenders&lt;/strong&gt;. Before you say &lt;em&gt;&quot;XYZ, you are changing question.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, no I am not:&#xA;the &lt;em&gt;junk&lt;/em&gt; description is not necessarily junk, it is to some extent in the eye of the beholder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="124" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T21:56:34.230" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T21:56:34.230" Title="Long-lasting price-worthy fenders?" Tags="&lt;fenders&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2799" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:49:42.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention that you do not like the extra cost of the SKS fenders, but I would say that I have had excellent luck with them lasting 3+ years with no issues at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are incredibly well made, and while not the cheapest on the market, they are not Honjos @ $100/pair either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-14T19:17:19.130" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T19:17:19.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2799" CreationDate="2011-02-11T21:24:06.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/fenders/fender-sets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velo Orange&lt;/a&gt; has good aluminum fenders with solid hardware in the $30-$60USD range. I haven't had any problems with the set I bought from them a couple years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that they also carry the more expensive Honjos. Their house-brand models are all labeled &quot;VO.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that they sell &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/fenders/fender-hardware.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;just the attachment hardware&lt;/a&gt;, and none of it is plastic. Might be a cheaper solution in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1039" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T21:24:06.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2799" CreationDate="2011-02-11T22:43:47.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zefal.com/zefal/home.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zefal&lt;/a&gt; fender set on my regularly used hybrid/commuter for 10+ years and counting. Probably a couple of minor crashes during that time, I lock up at public bike racks, and I also occasionally use bike racks on bus transit. Otherwise, they don't get banged around very much. I don't know what attachment requirements you have, but Zefal has a few models on their site to choose from. Also, don't remember the price as it was quite a while back when I purchased. The fenders are amortizing well though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point a strut became bent, but I just bent it back into shape. Occasionally, I need to adjust/tighten the mounts a bit. These fenders are and have been pain-free over that time and stand up to &quot;normal&quot; wear and tear, so I can definitely endorse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;In thinking of the &quot;stingy&quot; tag...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I took a look at my bike files. I purchased the Zefal's for $42 in 2000, along with the hybrid/commuter, so I've had them for 10+ years. The fenders are black polycarbonate, stays are steel, and the front fender mounts to the eyelets with a rubberized bushing. I just took a good look at the fenders and there is no indication that I'll need to replace them any time soon. They don't rattle and basically the maintenance has been limited to slight adjustments after particularly rough rides. Anyway, I &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;love bargains&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; , but I tend to prefer quality products &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;that last&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, as opposed to whatever happens to be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the cheapest&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-13T21:25:51.203" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T21:25:51.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-02-11T22:45:30.817" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Fender&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mudguard / mudflaps&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A must for winter cycling. As the wheel rotates, it will spray water and dirt up a rider's back and onto various parts of the frame. Fenders block this spray. They are often recommended for riding in wet weather. Mudguards are flaps attached at the ends of a fender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WGV5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fender / mudguard&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commercial fenders can be made from metal or plastic. They can also be DIY'ed from plastic milk cartons. Typically, fenders require the frame and fork to have fender mounts. However, some fenders, like the ones depicted, can attach on to the frame and fork directly. This mounting is less secure, and such fenders do not cover as much of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an object like a stick gets jammed between the tire and fender, it can cause the fender to break off. The frame may be damaged as well. If there is not much clearance between the fender and tire, this may be an argument for using fenders made for race bikes. These fenders may just bolt to the seat stay and down tube, and will offer partial protection from dirt and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="38270" LastEditDate="2019-11-12T19:26:29.713" LastActivityDate="2019-11-12T19:26:29.713" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-11T22:45:30.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2698" CreationDate="2011-02-11T23:27:09.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll find that the cost of switching to a different gear type will be more expensive in the long run.  As technology progresses, the 7 speed stuff will get harder and harder to find, and more expensive.  I've messed around with this sort of thing, but going the other direction: there are a lot of items you'll need to switch.  A short (probably incomplete list):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cassette (obviously)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shifters (obviously)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake levers (if they're attached to the shifters, as many are)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The freewheel in the rear, to be compatible with the different kind of cassette&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May include a new rear hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May include a new back wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May instead include rebuilding the back wheel yourself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your crankset in the front, if gear ratios are wrong for your new cassette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It ends up being a pretty big change.  That said, you can get 9 speed cassettes pretty inexpensively.  If you're worried about cost, you can get a new cassette for about $20.  You can get a new 9 speed chain for $15 - $20.  If you keep your chain clean, dry it whenever you get it wet, and keep it well lubed, you should be able to get at least 2000 miles out of it.  If you replace your chains when they start to wear out, you should be able to make a cassette last through at least 3 chains.  That's 6000 miles for about $65; not bad.  Considering how much money and time you'd spend on new shifters, hubs, freewheels, and all the rest, I don't think it's ever really worth downgrading equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T23:27:09.413" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2799" CreationDate="2011-02-11T23:31:22.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck with Planet Bike fenders. I've got &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0009U8Y7M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; on my commuter, and they work nicely and don't rattle.  When things &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; start to rattle, sometimes you can fix it with a few zip ties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T23:31:22.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2789" CreationDate="2011-02-12T00:07:13.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Topeak&lt;/a&gt; Pocket Rocket a few years back at the LBS spring sale for ~$25. Works great. I made $10 the first time I used it because I didn't have to pay a $35 cab fare to get back home after a flat on a country road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fits in my pocket, the nozzle has a snap-on cover, works with Presta/Schrader, it's made of aluminum, feels solid and most importantly gets my tires to an adequate pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For floor pumps, you can check out this thread: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/811/what-is-the-best-floor-pump&quot;&gt;What is the best floor pump?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T00:13:16.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1882" CreationDate="2011-02-12T19:22:24.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an addition to the other answers: Note that there are (at least) two types of bikes with electric motors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E-Bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedelec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An E-Bike has a motor that will work without pedaling (like a motorbike); a pedelec will only support you while you pedal yourself (the motor is activated by pedaling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter is usually regulated like a bicycle in most countries, while the former is often treated like a light motorbike (license, number plate, insurance required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The terminology is unfortunately somewhat inconsistent, some people use &quot;E-Bike&quot; as a general term for electric bikes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-12T19:36:05.733" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T19:36:05.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-02-12T19:42:44.527" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Saddle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also called the seat, the saddle is where the rider sits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheldon Brown on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sa-o.html#saddle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;saddles&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2503534081/in/photostream/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y59TA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gel saddle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/5168086567/in/photostream/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/43tMO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leather saddle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2763688167/in/photostream/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SWKBm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic saddle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T19:56:06.133" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-12T19:42:44.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2011-02-12T20:15:10.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for courses at your local bike store.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the UK &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edinburghbicycle.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Edinburgh bike coop&lt;/a&gt; do excellent basic and more advanced course, as do MEC in Canada - both also do women only courses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most local bike advocacy groups will do something similar, sometimes it's helpful to see how to do it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T20:15:10.540" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-12T20:15:10.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2820" CreationDate="2011-02-12T20:40:31.503" Score="14" ViewCount="3185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ripped apart my mom's mountain bike's rear hub.  One of the bearings was incredibly rough, so I replaced it, and the other one was smooth, but didn't turn very easily.  Since I didn't have a replacement for it on hand, I just put it back, but I'm not sure if I should try to replace it.  Is there a good rule of thumb on bearings?  Does one failed bearing imply that another one is likely to go soon?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While we're at it, should I be doing anything to the freewheel other than cleaning it and re-greasing it?  I've heard it's important not to put too much grease inside the freewheel, or it'll increase drag when you're coasting, so I was careful of that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specifics for this bike: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mavic wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano 9-speed freewheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full suspension mountain bike that gets fairly heavy use on XC singletrack terrain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastEditorUserId="40506" LastEditDate="2020-06-28T02:40:37.770" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T10:43:39.457" Title="Should I replace all wheel bearings when only some are worn?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2796" CreationDate="2011-02-12T20:46:56.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been in a number of situations where I was really glad to have a master link that I could pull apart.  I'm a big fan of Sram's chains, and they're pretty reasonably priced here in the US.  In your position, I'd try hard to find a chain with a master link.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, it's worth having (and even carrying with you) a spare master link.  If you do blow apart your chain, being able to put it back together is well worth the extra few milligrams in your bike pack.  Since they seem to come in 4-packs, it'd probably be fine to just find a chain and buy a pack of master links. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T20:46:56.410" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2738" CreationDate="2011-02-12T21:09:11.893" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've talked to a lot of folks about chain lube.  I've met quite a few people with strong opinions, and they vary wildly.  Some folks swear by paraffin wax based lubricants like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelightningco.com/&quot;&gt;White Lightning&lt;/a&gt; line of lubricants.  Other folks swear by oil-based lubricants like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.philwood.com/products/gohc/oilngrease.php&quot;&gt;Phil's Tenacious Oil&lt;/a&gt;.  Still others won't ride without a teflon based lubricant like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.triflowlubricants.com/&quot;&gt;Tri-Flow&lt;/a&gt;.  Everyone who swears by one of these three types of lubricants will tell you the others are terrible and will destroy your chain or some other nonsense.  The rhetoric is silly -- each of them works well enough.  I've had good and bad luck with different products in each category.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes down to it, you just need to find a lubricant you like and use it.  The biggest deal, according to some very experienced mechanics I've talked to, is to keep your chain &lt;em&gt;clean&lt;/em&gt;.  Your chain needs lubricant on it, but it doesn't take much to keep it lubed.   The big thing that destroys chains is dirt.  If you clean your chain frequently, it will last a lot longer.  When you clean it, you should be able to run your finger along the links (the top or bottom, not the sides) and have your finger come away with a little bit of lubricant on it.  If there's nothing there, you should lube your chain.  If you do this, what lube you choose won't matter nearly as much.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are some differences to take into account.  The two things I think most about are waterproofness, wetness, and application instructions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waterproofness: If you ride your bike in the rain, you need a lube that will resist washing off.  A lot of the inexpensive lubricants you can buy are not very waterproof, so by the end of your ride the whole thing has washed off.  That's bad for your chain.  If you look at the lubricants you're considering, the bottle should explicitly say if it's waterproof.  For this condition, Phil's Tenacious Oils work pretty well, as does Boshield's T-9 lube. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wetness: Some lubricants leave the chain with a glistening wet surface.  When you put it on, you should be able to wipe this off a lot, but some lubes (like oils, and &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of the teflon-based lubes) will leave an oily sheen whenever they are present.  This oily sheen can pick up dust from the environment.  If you're riding in a dusty environment you want something that will dry completely and still work.  For dry conditions, Tri-Flow makes a product that dries completely and leaves a teflon lubricating layer.  Boshield's T-9 is good here too -- it dries and leaves a parafin wax lubricating layer.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Application Instructions: Different lubricants require different rituals to apply them.  Some of them suggest you put them on the chain, wait 30 min, and wipe off the extra.  Others suggest you lube the chain and immediately wipe off the extra.  Some even suggest putting it on the chain, wiping off the extra, and then letting the bike sit in a warm space for 12 hours before use.  Depending on what you're doing, this may be impossible.  My girlfriend and I accidentally bought a bottle of the &quot;sit in a protected place for 12 hours&quot; stuff on a bike tour, and it was terrible.  We were camping, we had no protected place for it to sit.  When you apply the stuff &quot;wrong&quot;, it works very poorly; we were applying it every 2 hours of riding, and still getting some nasty wear and squeaking.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there you go: there's no one answer.  If there were, you wouldn't see so many products on the market.  If you give it some thought, and do some experimentation with a couple of the products that suit your needs best, you should settle on something you can use well, and go through slowly.  Chain lube doesn't need to be a big expense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T21:09:11.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2815" CreationDate="2011-02-13T00:28:41.890" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Lennard Zinn's book &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/1934030988&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance'&lt;/a&gt;, you should replace all of the bearings even if only one is obviously bad. That way you ensure round, smooth, consistent bearings. I've been using his repair manuals for years and he's pretty much never steered me wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="40506" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T10:43:39.457" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T10:43:39.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2011-02-13T06:54:03.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we're sticking with websites, I also like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bitrot.de/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thomas Driemeyer's site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T06:54:03.413" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-13T06:54:03.413" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2825" CreationDate="2011-02-13T11:47:52.903" Score="6" ViewCount="2949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had 4 flats in three rides, all rear wheel.  I can't see anything in the tyre, the tyres relatively new, the rims look good.  Needless to say I'm getting pretty hacked off with having to keep changing tubes. Two today on a mild 17 mile ride!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas for anything else I can check for. I've run my fingers through the tyre on every change and can't feel anything. Anything else I can do to ensure there's nothing still in it?  Could it be something I'm doing when installing the tube?  Anything else you guys can think of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T19:17:20.523" Title="Recurring flats" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2011-02-13T12:27:01.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This website if you've got a more specific question about which bit of your bike you want to maintain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T12:27:01.943" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-13T12:27:01.943" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2829" CreationDate="2011-02-13T12:49:01.127" Score="14" ViewCount="1193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new road bike with Campag Athena 11 speed in March last year. To the end of Jan it had covered 9000km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all that time I hadn't changed the chain because I don't have the Campag tool, and the KMC chain was not available. I finally got a new chain recently - unsurprisingly the old one was very stretched - so I bought a new cassette as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, the new chain on the old cassette runs very smoothly, and even dismantling them and comparing the cogs I can't see any change in shape or size! I don't know what Campag are making them out of, but it's fantastic stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone I've spoken to is convinced that after 9000km on one chain the cassette will be useless, but the prevailing advice is also to change the cassette when there are issues, and there just don't seem to be any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T23:18:57.333" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T23:18:57.333" Title="Do I need to change my cassette if I can't see any wear?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2822" CreationDate="2011-02-13T14:05:05.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a problem with the rim tape which runs around the inside of the wheel rim. I'm not sure how you would check this short of replacing it (which is a relatively inexpensive and quick thing to do) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second possibility is that when you sit on the bike, one of the spoke ends is moving, pushing into the inner tube. Or in a similar vein a small piece of glass may be lodged in the tyre and only stick into the inner tube when your weight pushes on the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your tyre inflated to the correct pressure? If it isn't this can cause &quot;pinch flats&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to think about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the puncture always occur on the inside of the circle made by the tube or the outside?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the puncture always in the same place relative to the wheel rim?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the puncture always in the same place relative to the tyre?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answers to these may help you narrow down the cause of your punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: This question may have more information - &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1061/frequent-blow-outs-in-the-same-location&quot;&gt;Frequent blow outs in the same location&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T19:17:20.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1882" CreationDate="2011-02-13T15:32:33.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different types of e-bikes as described in other answers, but in the end it all depends on what the buyer had in mind. Even if an e-bike is intended for X, there are good chances that it's not what it's going to do. (See the number of suspension mountain bikes on the road)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are old and/or ill people who need assistance in tougher parts, there are lazy people who want a cheap scooter, there are people going to work who don't want to be tired/sweaty, there are very-out-of-shape people who want some help in the beginning and so and so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's most definitely not for everyone, and if you cycle for the sports aspect more than to move around then it may be why you &quot;don't get&quot; how to use these machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T15:32:33.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2822" CreationDate="2011-02-13T16:13:44.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do what Amos suggested to find out if there are any patterns in the flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst I've had was a tiny piece of radial wire (from blown out car/truck tires) stuck in the thickest part of the tread.  It was very difficult to find and only pressed into the tube while riding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case, if you can't find the source but know the rim &amp;amp; tape are ok, just replace the tire.  I carry a spare folding tire on really long rides for that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T16:13:44.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2824" CreationDate="2011-02-13T16:52:41.890" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's an impressive amount of mileage on a single chain.  Especially on a narrow 11-speed one.  I'm guessing that you keep everything very well maintained and don't ride in much wet weather?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two main problems you'll get from a worn cassette are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skipping chain (either between cogs or jumping on a single cog)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Premature chain wear (as the chain stretches to match the worn cassette's teeth)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not seeing the first problem and visually the cassette looks fine, then you're probably ok to keep using it.  Best case, everything works fine and you've delayed the cost of using your new cassette.  Worst case, your new chain won't last as long and at that point you'll have to change both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since chains cost much less than cassettes, I'd suggest running with the old cassette if it's not skipping and shifts smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T16:52:41.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2799" CreationDate="2011-02-14T00:03:45.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends which bit broke. If it's the rear fender attachment that bolts to the frame most bike shops here stock a $2-ish flat metal attachment that's designed to be folded around the fender and up to take the mounting bolt (pic &lt;a href=&quot;http://img651.imageshack.us/i/mudguardattachment.png/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://img651.imageshack.us/i/mudguardattachment.png/&lt;/a&gt;). If it's the stay to fender attachment there's too many options, your only real choice is to buy a decent set that you can get parts for.&#xA;Sample sites selling parts: &lt;a href=&quot;http://abbotsfordcycles.com.au/public/content/view/40/101/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://abbotsfordcycles.com.au/public/content/view/40/101/&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/fenders.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/fenders.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, buying metal attachment parts is the better solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T00:03:45.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2011-02-14T00:55:55.943" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A factor that is as important as the bike you purchase is the store you purchase it from. Do you feel comfortable talking to the mechanics about problems on your bike or asking for advice with changes to the bike? Do they offer a fitting service that includes measuring your body and putting you up on a trainer (as opposed to eye-balling it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good bike shop will probably give you a lot of the same advice you will get here. A poor bike shop will probably just push you towards the bike they think you are most likely to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most critical aspect of your test-ride is the comfort on the bike. Many bike shops have test-bikes that they will let you borrow (or rent) for a day to try out. Give a short ride on several bikes and then your top picks, ask if they have test bikes you can take home. Ride your commute on each of them to see how it feels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A short 30 minute test ride may not give you the right information as compared to riding your actual route. A good example is the gearing on the bike--it may be ok on a short, 6% grade... but terrible on a long, 2% grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T00:55:55.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2011-02-14T09:54:17.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend and I inflate the tires on our touring tandem to 90 psi.  The bike carries both of us plus two fully loaded panniers in the back.  At 90 psi in the tire with what probably ends up being over 350 lbs on the bike, we have never had a pinch flat.  That said, I drive the bike &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; carefully to avoid hitting anything with a sharp edge (lots of driveways have a nasty edge on them).  I wouldn't recommend over-inflating your tires (they're rated for a reason), but if you're getting a lot of pinch flats, you might consider riding a little more conservatively.  A little caution can go a long way toward making things last. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T09:54:17.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2835" CreationDate="2011-02-14T10:19:26.853" Score="16" ViewCount="3283" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I had a long ride in winter, about 100km (62 miles) and was about 5-8 degree c (41-46F). I was wearing a windstopper jacket and basic cycling pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At later stage of the ride I felt legs aren't producing enough pedaling force and muscles feel quite painful and sore. And eventually I am home. Even though it was pretty warm, I still felt myself not producing any heat. I even tried putting myself into a hot shower and I was still shaking... And then I started to eat a lot. And It still didn't stop me from shaking...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I then went to bed with electrical warming blankets and started to recover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what are the symptoms and what should you do to avoid hypothermia in a winter ride. What if you are already suffering from hypothermia?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1112" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-14T21:18:37.880" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T13:08:14.103" Title="What to do about hypothermia on a long ride?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2011-02-14T10:24:04.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another trick for finding leaks that I don't see mentioned here is soapy water.  Pull the tube out, and make a preparation of very soapy water.  I particularly like dish detergent (e.g. dawn) because it is so concentrated, but any soap should work.  When you brush soapy water over the tube, the air escaping from any leaks will form soap bubbles.  If you don't have a great place to submerge it, this trick can be a lifesaver. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're looking for a slow leak, you want to find the cause of the leak.  To do this, it's important to mark the tire, the wheel, and the tube in some way so you can figure out exactly where the hole came from.  You can use the valve stem on the tube and the rim to figure out where they fit together, but you should mark the tire to indicate where the tire sits in relation to the valve stem.  If you do this, and keep them oriented the same (i.e. don't flip them over as you work on them), you should be able to find the leak &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; to find the place in the rim and the tire that's near the leak.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you find the spot, inspect the rim and the tire.  Any problems with the rim should be fairly obvious if you run your finger over them; check it and move on to the tire if you don't find anything.  When you are inspecting the tire, start by running your finger over the offending surface.  If you feel something sharp, be sure to dig it out.  If that doesn't work (and with a really slow leak, it often won't), you'll need to get more aggressive.  Turn the tire inside out, and fold it over in that area.  The fold should stretch the inner rubber wall, and any holes caused by punctures will be more obvious.  Find the hole, and then dig around in the hole with a small screwdriver or something.  I've often found little shards of glass or bits of wire embedded in the tire itself.  You can't feel it, you can't see it, but it can still puncture your tube when you go over a bump just wrong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastEditorUserId="993" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T00:24:43.243" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T00:24:43.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2833" CreationDate="2011-02-14T10:33:19.727" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hypothermia can sneak up on a person.  Unless you're paying attention, you usually won't notice until you're extremely cold.  Hypothermia can slow your reaction times and cause severe lapses in judgement, so be very careful out there!  It's best to avoid it altogether, but if it happens, don't trust yourself to make good decisions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as what to wear:  I'm kind of a gearhead, so I like to wear fancy softshell clothing.  It's great stuff because it breathes well and lets out moisture but still blocks wind and (mostly) blocks rain.  If you're into that sort of thing, Pearl Izumi and Castelli both make some great gear.  If you're on a bit of a budget, I'd lean toward the tried and true wool.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Avoid cotton like the plague -- when it gets wet, cotton will make you extremely cold&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We lose a lot of heat through our heads, so in the cold months it's important to have a hat on under your helmet.  I have a thin wool hat that keeps my head warm and fits nicely under my helmet.  Be sure to wear a warm layer and a wind blocking layer.  Wearing a wool sweater and a windproof jacket over the top will often be enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gloves can also be very important -- when I'm riding long distances in the winter months, I find gloves help me keep my fingers nimble.  Making sure your fingers are warm enough to work well can be a serious safety concern when it comes to braking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of all, be aware of how you feel.  If you feel cold and then later your hands are stiff but you don't feel cold any more, that's a warning sign.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as warming up goes, you did quite well.  I would add a warm beverage to the mix -- hot tea, hot chocolate, or whatever you prefer -- as it helps warm you from within.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-14T20:15:40.633" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T20:15:40.633" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2833" CreationDate="2011-02-14T11:16:22.160" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always seem to have one ride each winter where I get the clothing choice wrong and end up with hypothermia.  Along with the reduced power output, I have this sleepy/calm feeling and I feel like I want to hop off the bike, find a pile of dry leaves, curl up and take a nap.  Sometimes, I have trouble with balance (can't ride in a straight line). Judgment will be affected, but I think it depends on the person as to how bad it deteriorates. I can usually focus enough to myself home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get home, I'll:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go into a low gear and spin to try to&#xA;generate heat.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake on downhill&#xA;sections to cut down on the wind and&#xA;go as hard as I can on uphill&#xA;sections.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's windy,  pick&#xA;routes home that have a lot of&#xA;buildings or forests. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;getting in the&#xA;drops (if you are road/cross) may&#xA;take the edge off and maybe help you&#xA;conserve a little bit of heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are swerving about and you have a mobile/someone to call: do it.  You don't want to swerve into a motorist who is passing you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T11:16:22.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2842" CreationDate="2011-02-14T17:50:26.717" Score="10" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks to darkcanuck and this site, I have learned of randonneuring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my basic questions are: What is randonneuring exactly? And, how does one get started? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically ride in 2 - 4 organized/supported Century rides each season; and additionally wind up on rides with friends in the 80 - 120 mile range. I think my riding may be hitting the category of randonneuring, but not in any organized fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Randonneuring sounds like a lot of challenging fun. What are good resources (online and other) to get me started?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-14T19:20:32.710" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T04:59:47.920" Title="What is randonneuring? How to get started?" Tags="&lt;randonneuring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2833" CreationDate="2011-02-14T18:28:02.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To prepare for hypothermia, you must first anticipate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I learned to sail they said that the weather conditions that are most likely to produce hypothermia are 45 deg F (7 deg C), light rain, and wind. If it's colder, people tend to recognize the risk and dress warmly or stay indoors; same with heavy rain. If it's warmer, dry, or calm, it's easier to stay warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, dress for the weather, but remember that if it's cool, wet, and breezy, you probably want to wear a little extra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2011-02-14T23:18:46.667" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T23:18:46.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2841" CreationDate="2011-02-14T21:07:16.343" Score="11" ViewCount="7681" Body="&lt;p&gt;My ride buddy and I were &quot;volunteered&quot; to ride a tandem bike for a 40 mile, somewhat hilly, charity ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're running into the issue of who should be in the front on the tandem. Both of us are capable cyclists who bike commute and do a lot of fast fitness cycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main difference is that my buddy is a stronger climber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what are the criteria for tandem riding? Who is the most effective &quot;driving&quot;? Maybe we should periodically swap? Should the &quot;muscle&quot; be in back or front?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-14T21:50:09.037" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T21:57:24.630" Title="Tandem position - front or back" Tags="&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2839" CreationDate="2011-02-15T00:58:25.880" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;(My experience, for context: my girlfriend and I have ridden tandems quite a bit -- in the last 6 months we put in a few thousand touring miles on our tandem, and we've been riding tandems for several years now.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several factors to consider when deciding who's going to be the stoker (at the back) and who's going to be the captain (at the front):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first and most important consideration is &lt;strong&gt;who's comfortable with what&lt;/strong&gt;.  If one of you is a lot more trusting (or trustworthy), that's your primary consideration.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another thing you should take into account is &lt;strong&gt;weight&lt;/strong&gt;.  The person driving the bike should ideally be the heavier person.  This is just a matter of physics -- the heavier you are, the more you can affect how much the bike turns.  In a pinch, it's better to have a heavier person who can more readily avoid obstacles.  The better your communication and teamwork, the less important this is. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The last consideration is &lt;strong&gt;Geometry&lt;/strong&gt;.  If the bike is built for a taller person in the front and a shorter person in the back (most tandems are), you should probably put the taller person in the front.  Assuming you're both at around the same fitness level, this should fit nicely with the previous rule, because taller people tend to weigh more. :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tandems are a whole lot of fun, but you need to go into it with the right attitude.  With the wrong attitude, you'll hate it, and you'll likely make each other miserable.  Here are some tips: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Communicate&lt;/strong&gt; more than you think is reasonable.  Especially at first, you should both be talking a lot.  The more you talk, the better it'll be. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remember you're part of a &lt;strong&gt;team&lt;/strong&gt; now.  If the cadence is good for you but bad for your buddy, it's bad for both of you.  You'll both need to adjust some and meet in the middle.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be &lt;strong&gt;trusting&lt;/strong&gt;.  If you try to do the other person's job, you'll both be unhappy.  Communicate your needs and let your buddy do their job.  (This is especially important for the stoker.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be &lt;strong&gt;understanding&lt;/strong&gt;.  If you're driving and your stoker says they're getting nervous about how fast you're taking corners, &lt;em&gt;slow down&lt;/em&gt;.  Yes, you're probably doing just fine, but riding with an unhappy stoker is going to make you slower in the end.  Conversely, if you're the stoker and the cadence is messed up, understand that the captain is probably doing their best to keep the cadence in tune -- it's not as easy as you might assume!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The stoker is in charge&lt;/strong&gt;. This sounds weird at first, but it's important.  The stoker tells the captain where to go and when to turn; the captain figures out how to get there.  If the stoker says &quot;stop&quot;, you stop.  In a situation where two experienced cyclists are riding together, this balance of power is crucial for everyone to remain happy.  The stoker is going to feel powerless by nature of their fixed handlebars, so the captain needs to give something back. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tandems are &lt;strong&gt;fun&lt;/strong&gt;.  They go bloody fast, and you've got somebody to talk to all the time.  You've got incredible amounts of power, and you can cruise at 30 mph with reasonable effort.  Don't forget to stop and enjoy the moments of speedy bliss, and you'll have a great time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of additions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To answer the final portion of the original question, it doesn't matter who sits where in terms of strength.  You're both equally connected to the drivetrain, and can both give as much power as your legs will produce.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't periodically swap.  Figure out who's going to be where, and practice before the ride.  If you're going to be pack riding, be very very careful, as tandems aren't as agile as single bikes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stoker position feels bumps a lot more than you normally feel them on a road bike.  Part of this is their position directly over the rear wheel, and part of it is an inability to see the road.  Suspension seat posts are a good idea for the stoker position.  Most importantly, &lt;em&gt;warn&lt;/em&gt; your stoker if you see bumps coming, and coast briefly so they can stand up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T02:16:16.107" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T02:16:16.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2837" CreationDate="2011-02-15T04:59:47.920" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &quot;marathon cycling&quot;.  Others have called it &quot;touring with time limits&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a sport, randonneuring is based on rules laid out by Audax Club Parisien (ACP).  Rides are known as &quot;brevets&quot; and are organized by local clubs.  They may have slightly different interpretations, but you can count on brevets being basically the same around the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't go into all of the gory details, but here are some of the highlights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Randonneuring is a non-competitive sport.&lt;/strong&gt;  You get credit for finishing a ride within the time limits, but there are no rankings, no awards for coming in first or setting a great time.  Some ride just to see if they can finish, others are trying to set new personal best times.  This means that you can team up with a group of similarly paced riders and help each other make it to the finish, which is very helpful when you're new to the sport.  All the riders I've ever met have been very generous with information, tips and motivation during brevets.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Riders must be self-sufficient&lt;/strong&gt;.  You're riding on regular roads without a sag wagon or cheering throngs of spectators.  Some brevets might have a lot of volunteers, so there may be food &amp;amp; water at some of the checkpoints.  Other rides might only have someone at the start &amp;amp; finish.  In between, you're on your own so you need to be able to sort out mechanical problems and take care of food &amp;amp; hydration.  Being prepared is essential since some routes can send you through very remote areas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Controls (or checkpoints)&lt;/strong&gt;:  you have to follow the specified route (instructions given out at the start, or possibly in advance) which passes through a series of controls.  At each control, you need to get proof of passage.  Typically this means getting a control card signed or stamped.  Sometimes this might be done by volunteers, other times it's a bewildered 7-11 clerk or cafe owner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Time limits&lt;/strong&gt;:  there is a time limit to make it through each control, including the final (finish) control.  The limits are generous and are based on maintaining 15km/h for rides 600km and under.  Keep in mind that this includes rest/food breaks, mechanical problems etc so you need to average above 20km/h to keep ahead of the cutoff times.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Distances start at 200km&lt;/strong&gt;.  A basic series would be a 200km, 300km, 400km and 600km brevet (depending on your club they might be spaced 2 weeks apart).  So for a 200km you have 13.5 hours to finish; 600km has a 40hour time limit.  It's a running clock, so the longer distances will involve plenty of night riding (on a 600km it's possible to build up enough of a time buffer for 4hrs of sleep, more if you're really fast).  Other distances include 1000km and most of the premier events are 1200km (90hr limit, typically), including Paris-Brest-Paris.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paris-brest-paris.org&quot;&gt;Paris-Brest-Paris&lt;/a&gt; (PBP)&lt;/strong&gt; is the biggest event on the randonneuring calender.  This is a 1200km event which draws thousands of riders from around the world.  It only runs every 4 years, and 2011 is the next one.  Participation in randonneuring clubs usually spikes during a PBP year, so it's a great time to get into the sport as there will be many other new riders.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favourite resource is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://randonneurs.bc.ca/&quot;&gt;BC Randonneurs website&lt;/a&gt; (very biased, since I'm a member).  The links at the bottom of the page go into more detail on what I've covered.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rusa.org/&quot;&gt;Randonneurs USA&lt;/a&gt; will probably be useful if you're looking for a US-based club.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you love riding, enjoy challenges and are very persistent (read &quot;stubborn&quot;) than I'd highly recommend it.  Most clubs run shorter rides called &quot;populaires&quot; which are open to non-members and give people a chance to try the sport with only a 50-100km committment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T04:59:47.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-15T05:11:21.430" Score="11" ViewCount="18318" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I decided to travel with my bike this week and to my surprise discovered that the steerer is carbon fiber.  I had removed the stem from the steerer for packing but naively assumed it was aluminum like my previous bike (both have carbon forks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to reassemble this so that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it doesn't come apart causing a horrible crash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't crack/damage the steerer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a torque wrench with me but not my copy of Zinn, so how tight should I clamp the two stem bolts? (they are labelled 10Nm but I think that's the rating for the stem, which is probably aluminum)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T13:08:17.357" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T13:08:17.357" Title="Attaching a stem to a carbon steerer: how much torque?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2833" CreationDate="2011-02-15T05:26:06.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen people get hypothermic and they've never realized that there was a problem.  One of the effects of hypothermia is reduced brain function: your reactions slow down, thoughts aren't clear, may start to lose motor control.  If you get to this point you will not realize what's happening or be able to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is tackle the problem when you're still at the &quot;feeling cold&quot; stage.  Put on more layers, change out of wet layers, find somewhere warm to rest up, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And drink plenty of fluids.&lt;/strong&gt;  Besides bad weather, the biggest risk factor for hypothermia is dehydration!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T05:26:06.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2833" CreationDate="2011-02-15T06:49:57.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have a bit of terminal&#xA;  burrowing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another example from today's news: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thestar.com/news/canada/article/938882--lost-teens-survive-quebec-tundra-for-four-days?bn=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thestar.com/news/canada/article/938882--lost-teens-survive-quebec-tundra-for-four-days?bn=1&lt;/a&gt; : &quot;He had dug a hole in the snow for&#xA;shelter from the wind and stripped&#xA;down to his T-shirt.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, when I was once taught about hypothermia, I was also told that '&lt;strong&gt;irrational&lt;/strong&gt;' (e.g. angry) could be a symptom of hypothermia, to look out for: being stupid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I biked in winter (in Canada), part of my problem was how to stay cool enough, given that I'm wearing a winter coat (I have to unzip it); but my distance was much less than 100 km (i.e. it was 20 km or about an hour, twice a day). I'd use my coat to keep my core warm enough, and a couple of layers under my coat to keep my skin warm when I unzip the coat. After an hour it would be my fingers and toes (and my skin generally) that was cold (so more likely to get superficial chilblains than internal hypothermia).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing is that I have a panier attached to the bike, which contains among other thing some extra clothes. I wear reduced clothing (and wear it unzipped or semi-unzipped) when I'm cycling (because I'm producing extra heat), so it's good to carry extra clothes for if ever you stop producing so much heat. A 100 km ride is several hours, I don't think I can count on being able to produce constant power output over so long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2017-05-01T13:08:14.103" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T13:08:14.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2011-02-15T07:47:20.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carry my water bottle(s) with me if I'm going to be somewhere without convenient (or cheap) access to decent beverages for an extended period of time. This includes classes, driving for more than a few minutes in the car, movie theaters and fast food restaurants that charge $4 for a PET water bottle, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been doing this regularly for about two years now, so anytime I leave home without a water bottle, I can't help but notice I'm forgetting something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T07:47:20.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2849" CreationDate="2011-02-15T09:45:51.277" Score="21" ViewCount="98782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always bought 700x28/38 Specialized inner tubes for my bike, because that was what I was told fitted. But what do those numbers mean? How do I know that a specific inner tube will fit my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="403" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T06:55:35.570" Title="how to choose inner tubes" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2847" CreationDate="2011-02-15T10:35:37.050" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The numbers refer to the dimensions of the tires that the tube is meant for. 700 is the wheel diameter in mm, and 28/38 means that the tube will fit tire widths from 28-38 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the dimensions used are the same that are printed on tires, so you can just look at your tire to know which tubes will fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that tubes are much more flexible that tires, so a given tube will fit a range of tires (hence the &quot;28/38&quot;). Often shops will only stock two or three tube sizes, which cover all common tire sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T10:35:37.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2847" CreationDate="2011-02-15T10:36:33.230" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;700 is the size of the wheel and tire which the tube is intended to fit. In this case, 700 means 700c, or ISO diameter 622mm rims. If you are unfamiliar with tire sizes, take a look &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;28/32 designates the min/max range of width of the tire which the tube is intended to fit, in mm. So in your case, your tubes are designed to fit tires of width 28mm (minimum) to 32mm (maximum). This range should correspond to the width of your rim as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; From @Benson's comment on this answer (in case it gets deleted)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Using a tube that's too big will mean it's exceedingly hard to get your tire back on, because the tube will have to fold out of the way. You'll risk pinching and damaging the tube as you put your tire back on. If you use a tube that's too small, you'll risk the tube stretching too far, which makes it much more vulnerable to popping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T06:55:35.570" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T06:55:35.570" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2011-02-15T14:11:40.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you will probably have to contact the fork manufacturer.  I am sure that each brand has their own ratings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T14:11:40.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2870" CreationDate="2011-02-15T15:49:14.727" Score="8" ViewCount="1539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a fascinating bicycle today with &quot;world traveler&quot; hand-written on the frame. I was awe-struck by this bike. The odometer showed over 2000 km ridden, in freezing winter temperatures. The plastic rear fender looked like it had been hit like by a cannonball. Its Brooks saddle (perhaps this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/store/index.cfm/product/506_76/brooks-b17-standard-honey.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;model&lt;/a&gt;) and handlebars were very old and worn-out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike had a sturdy headlight in the front, no disc brakes (a good decision, it just had easily fixed rim-brakes), a lock mounted to the frame by tubes wrapped around it, as well as front and rear racks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were also many oddities like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://picture.yatego.com/images/42c52fad8a4b42.6/shopbild_Hamax_sleepy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hamex child-carrying-seat&lt;/a&gt; without the chair and a metallic chuck under saddle with a hole (perhaps to move something or to attach something). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It did not shine in glory, but it surely is a very well-used bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On such a bike, one would have to balance utility, weight, and durability. What do bikes being ridden around the world look like? How should a bike outfitted for an around-the-world tour be equipped? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please explain &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; bikes on long-term tours have the equipment they have. I need to know this because I want to understand the differences between different items used on long-term tours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2796/should-i-use-ready-master-linked-chain-or-a-chainseparate-bought-master-link&quot;&gt;spare master links&lt;/a&gt; (good insurance in the case of a chain break)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cable-actuated disc brakes or rim-brakes, more &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/features/givemeabrake.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a lot of good stuff &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/features/howto.cfm#Gear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for traveling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T18:19:41.360" Title="Items required in a World travelling bike?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2854" CreationDate="2011-02-15T16:04:58.237" Score="5" ViewCount="2496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of Redline platform pedals with plastic end caps and I notice one of them does not turn freely.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They look about like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redlinebicycles.com/uploaded/dynamic/430/124564-thumb_800.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.redlinebicycles.com/uploaded/dynamic/430/124564-thumb_800.jpg&lt;/a&gt;, except there is no notch near the end cap, which makes me think it isn't maintainable. The Redline page says they are available either as sealed bearing or loose ball and perhaps these are sealed?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about popping the cap off the end anyway and see if I can grease it.  Will I ruin my pedal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T20:19:00.137" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T20:19:00.137" Title="How to maintain platform pedal bearings?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2852" CreationDate="2011-02-15T16:46:09.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some pedals are designed to be disposable, with sealed bearings as you mentioned. Usually these have a plastic dust cap (the cap you referred to) which is not easy to remove. If this is the case, you won't be able to do anything with the pedal, even if you get the cap off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, as you seem to know, if a pedal is designed to be serviceable, there will be some obvious way to remove the dust caps (i.e. wrench flats, special tool socket, etc.). The lack of any such feature makes me think that they aren't serviceable and likely have sealed bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No guarantees&lt;/strong&gt;, as I have never taken the cap off of one of these pedals to find out, but I don't think you can outright &lt;em&gt;ruin&lt;/em&gt; the pedal just by taking the dust cap off. If the pedal is already not turning freely, then I don't see any harm in taking a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see two possible outcomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pedal has sealed bearings and will need to be replaced soon anyway, regardless of whether you damage it further by removing the dust cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pedal has loose bearings, so you can clean and re-grease the parts, then put it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to just pop the dust cap back on afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T16:46:09.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2851" CreationDate="2011-02-15T17:02:13.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.markbeaumontonline.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guy who cycled around the world&lt;/a&gt; on the BBC used a &quot;Koga Miyata Signature - custom spec alu alloy frame, 700mm wheel, Rohloff hub, disk brakes, butterfly bars&quot; according to his web site&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://thisisnotforcharity.blogspot.com/2009/12/yes-i-do-have-record-and-now-for.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;faster (and slightly nicer) guy&lt;/a&gt; used a Tout Terrain frame equipped with a Rohlhoff hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems you splash out on a Rohloff hub at least !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T17:02:13.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2851" CreationDate="2011-02-15T22:53:00.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While we were cycling down the pacific coast of the US, my girlfriend and I met a swiss couple who had been touring the world for 15 months.  They didn't move very fast, but they had covered thousands of miles.  Here is what I remember from their setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front and back racks with Ortlieb panniers (waterproofing is critical)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclometer (It's nice to know how far you've gone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Schwalbe Marathon XR tires (can't get them any more, but the new Marathon models are good too)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26&quot; wheels, rather than 700c.  This means parts (spokes, rims, tires, etc) are more readily available in the less developed parts of the world&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat bars with MTB style shifters.  Again: parts are more widely available. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rohloff internally geared hubs (they require a lot less maintenance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A camp stove that burns nearly every fuel imaginable (this isn't part of the bike, but it's certainly an important part of the tour)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On our tour, we met a great number of foreign tourists who had visited many countries by bicycle.  Generally, their touring gear was not terribly different from what we ride with in the US.  Sometimes it's worth going to a less efficient but more widely available component (like 26&quot; wheels), but generally the most unique thing about a world touring bike is the rider.  To make it a good touring bike all you have to do is ride it all over the planet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T22:53:00.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2851" CreationDate="2011-02-15T23:08:23.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a very long tour such as this, the cyclist will want to be as self-sufficient as possible. Bike components and accessories are often a trade-off between weight and cost, but touring brings durability and ease of repair to the forefront. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of riding is often called &lt;strong&gt;loaded touring&lt;/strong&gt;, and has the strong implication that the cyclist is carrying everything needed such as food, camping equipment, tools, spare parts, maps, and sometimes more. There are other styles of touring such as supported touring, but I'm guessing the cyclist whose bike you saw wasn't doing this. Features of a bike suitable for extended loaded touring include: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A comfortable &lt;strong&gt;saddle&lt;/strong&gt; may well be the most important component of a diamond-frame touring bike. The cyclist will be spending many long days, weeks, months, or even years sitting on that saddle. The Brooks B-17 is an extremely popular saddle, and is common on touring bikes. Brooks has made leather saddles in England for many years. Leather saddles are comfortable because they conform to the wearer's butt over time, and may not be comfortable until they have several hundred miles on them. If you see a bike with an old, ratty-looking leather saddle, there's a good chance you're looking at a well-loved and well-used bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touring bikes need to be durable. This is a reason that &lt;strong&gt;steel frames&lt;/strong&gt; are favored. Steel is flexible, strong, and can be fixed by welding. Steel frames are sturdy enough for racks to be installed on them. Other frame materials, such as aluminum and carbon fiber, are lighter than steel but aren't as strong. There are touring bikes made from aluminum, some of them good ones, but carbon fiber cannot at present take the weight of 30-60 pounds of panniers and camping equipment. Steel is also inexpensive. Unfortunately, steel is heavier than other frame materials. (This summary is a significant oversimplification.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handlebars&lt;/strong&gt; on a touring bike are a less-critical component, but bars that are a little wider than on a typical road bike are common. Since the posture of the rider on a touring bike will be oriented more towards comfort than on a road bike, riders often favor a more upright posture and handlebars are therefore set higher up. Handlebars may have room for accessories such as computers and lights. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheels&lt;/strong&gt; that are stronger are best, since a bike that is carrying a lot of weight will tend to break more spokes. A high spoke-count usually means a stronger wheel. 700c wheels are common on touring bikes, but 26&quot; rims are more commonly found worldwide simply because of the availability of 26&quot; tires and tubes worldwide. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires&lt;/strong&gt; will be selected for durability rather than speed. A tire that is faster but is prone to flats will slow the rider down more than a tire that is more durable. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Navigation hardware&lt;/strong&gt; can include a standard bike computer with an odometer paired with maps, a GPS with routing capabilities, or even both. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sturdy &lt;strong&gt;racks&lt;/strong&gt; are important. Weaker, inexpensive racks will bend and break under a heavy load. Most racks used for touring are sold with a maximum weight capacity figure. Tubus makes an excellent selection of touring racks. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Panniers&lt;/strong&gt; will be selected based on durability. The question of whether a rack will have many small pockets or one large one (i.e., a simple sack with attachment hooks) is a matter of packing style and personal preference. Ortlieb and Arkel are two higher-end touring pannier manufacturers. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drivetrain components&lt;/strong&gt; should be durable and easily fixed on the road. For this reason, internally geared hubs are seldom used, even though they are generally more trouble-free. A traditional derailer can be fixed at the side of the road in many cases. A gear ratio should be selected that allows for hill-climbing, even at the expense of sacrificing speed. Bar-end shifters are often favored, because they're simpler to fix than more complex shifters. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension&lt;/strong&gt; is often not used on a touring bike, since they are less efficient at translating pedaling into forward motion. However, there are offroad touring bikes. Suspension also makes it difficult to attach racks, particularly rear suspension.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes&lt;/strong&gt; are usually rim brakes, for similar reasons as drivetrain components: they can be fixed with few tools. However, disc brakes are starting to be more common on touring bikes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common touring bikes include the Surly Long-Haul Trucker and the Trek 520. (The Novara Randonee is essentially a clone of these bikes.) Rivendell and Bike Friday also make well-regarded touring bikes; there are no doubt many other manufacturers of sturdy frames. Steel hardtail (non-suspension) mountain bike frames can be converted into touring bikes relatively easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an old touring adage: You can tour on any bike. Carbon-fiber racing bikes can pull a trailer full of gear. The above outline of what's helpful on a touring bike is what I would consider a best-case scenario, but is by no means mandatory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll close this with a picture of one of my touring bikes. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YcJ5Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-16T04:40:38.713" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T04:40:38.713" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2880" CreationDate="2011-02-16T00:34:11.410" Score="4" ViewCount="1841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the cheapest chain breaker, XLC 10EUR, and its head got loose on the first try (maybe due to my poor handling or it is not well-done product). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was on the journey and had to get it so did not have time to investigate for better long-term option. This reply raised the issue again, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2796/should-i-use-an-already-master-linked-chain-or-add-a-masterlink-to-a-plain-chain/2816#2816&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop-keeper said that he used some very expensive tool because it &quot;is much better in everything but for great price tag&quot;. Which durable chain breaker would you suggest to replace XLC? And if you have tips not to break it, please, do not hesitate to contain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T02:36:53.230" Title="Which durable Chain Breaker?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2011-02-16T05:33:42.957" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I uses the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rockthebike.com/lights/downlowglow&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Down Low Glow&lt;/a&gt; which is a tube light that mounts to your down tube. It creates an area of illuminated pavement around you which most motorists in my area treat as the &quot;no-zone&quot;. I generally feel safer riding at night than during the day because motorists will allow for more passing distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oeqey.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T05:33:42.957" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2859" CreationDate="2011-02-16T14:22:51.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Park Tool manufactures tools for professional bicycle mechanics, so you can expect a quality product from them. But you should not be afraid from unknown brands or used tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suggest reading this article: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtofixbikes.ca/2009/07/difference-between-good-chain-tool-and.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The difference between a good chain tool and a cheap chain tool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T14:22:51.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2866" CreationDate="2011-02-16T15:22:16.093" Score="21" ViewCount="3855" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both on this site and &quot;in real life&quot;, battery-powered lights appear to be at least as popular as generator-powered lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always been slightly confused by this. To me, a generator-powered light seems the better solution if you need light regularly, because there's no need to worry about charging, and because they can be permanently attached. Yet many people seem to not only prefer battery-powered lights, they appear to not even consider a generator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is that so? What are the advantages to battery-powered lights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T20:43:28.787" Title="Why are battery-powered lights so popular?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2864" CreationDate="2011-02-16T16:21:39.063" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheaper, easy to fit, more widely available - and don't take any effort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably most people's memory is of the side wheel dynamo systems when they were a kid that wore away tires, put out a feeble light and turned off when you stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FdYro.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-02-16T16:42:08.017" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T16:42:08.017" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2864" CreationDate="2011-02-16T16:22:12.513" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main advantage, in my view, is that you can more easily add/remove battery-powered lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why this may be desirable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Theft resilience.&lt;/strong&gt; I take my lights off the bike and carry them with me if I'm parking my bike outdoors for longer than a few minutes. &lt;strong&gt;Caveats:&lt;/strong&gt; This can be more of a downside than a benefit, depending on your situation. (I can't imagine a thief taking the time to steal a generator-powered light, but I'm sure it happens &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flexibility.&lt;/strong&gt; I don't bother to take my lights with me unless I know I'm possibly going to need them. If I used a generator-powered light, I would be pretty much stuck with it all the time, even if I'm only going to ride during the day. &lt;strong&gt;Caveats:&lt;/strong&gt; This is, however, not much of a positive thing, unless the lights you use are particularly heavy, or you happen to be a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=weight%20weenie&quot;&gt;weight weenie&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interchangeability.&lt;/strong&gt; I can swap my lights between my bikes very easily. Most decent battery-powered lights have an adjustable removable clamp that you can use to attach the light to any style of handlebar/seat post/other tube that you could possibly want. This means that I only need one set of lights that I can use between all of my bikes. &lt;strong&gt;Caveats:&lt;/strong&gt; If you don't like to spend an extra 5 minutes swapping your lights every time you want to ride a different bike, this is not a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastEditorUserId="859" LastEditDate="2011-02-16T17:33:51.217" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T17:33:51.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-02-16T16:38:57.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Vancouver, Canada&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is supposed to be installing one this year, 3800 bikes and 250 stations according to their last report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But - cycle helmets are required here ($100 fine) and the scheme doesn't propose hiring them - so it's going to be limited to existing cyclists.  General opinion is that the money and space would be better spent on secured parking for peoples own bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't have time to go through this now, but here's a link to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://vancouver.ca/engsvcs/transport/cycling/plans/publicbikeshare.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vancouver bike sharing program&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T01:12:17.337" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-16T16:38:57.397" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2873" CreationDate="2011-02-16T20:41:06.363" Score="10" ViewCount="2058" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heavy things can be a lot of books, full beer cans, construction woods and other misc in a place where I cannot use a car and the trip is long and suitable for riding. So which one would you favor? And which kind of adjustment would you make to move heavy things? I have seen a post office with diamond-frame bike framed with a metallic balancing thing, for example. Any such devices for other options and what are they called? Stabilizer? Support device?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/47xhx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have long been looking for something like that but haven't yet found from second-hand market, I believe they could be reasonable priced. A more sturdy example &lt;a href=&quot;http://flic.kr/p/7bEd9U&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; from Austria with side wheels, now the frame is original. I don't know yet how much such side supports can stand so open to any suggestions, does not need to be diamond-framed like in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T17:50:55.713" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T11:44:28.837" Title="Recumbent, diamond-frame or trailer to move heavy things?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2868" CreationDate="2011-02-16T21:13:52.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heavy cargo on a bike can raise the center of gravity. With smaller cargo, whether one uses a trailer or attaches the cargo to the bike (cargo racks with straps, panniers, a backpack, et cetera) is, to a point, a personal preference. (I don't know if there are recumbent cargo bikes, so I really can't comment on that.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when the cargo gets large enough, a &lt;strong&gt;trailer&lt;/strong&gt; will become the best option for a couple of reasons: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A trailer has more room than a bike's racks, baskets, or panniers. Particularly large items simply won't fit well on a bike's rack, or at least not elegantly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A trailer will keep the weight lower to the ground, keeping the center of gravity lower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good-quality trailers can last a long time, but can be expensive. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;panniers and racks&lt;/strong&gt; have the following advantages: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flexibility. One can bring four panniers along (or six on a bike like the Big Dummy) or just one. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some bikes handle &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; with panniers on them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have limited space, and can wear quickly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Racks are difficult to attach on some bikes, particularly a bike with suspension or without rack eyelets on the frame. Solutions do exist for both of these scenarios. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Baskets&lt;/strong&gt; are another option. &#xA;- They have the advantage of ease of use: the user can toss stuff in the basket and roll away. &#xA;- However, stuff can blow out of them, and they're heavier than panniers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are bikes that are built for cargo, such as the Surly Big Dummy (essentially a bike with the frame behind the saddle stretched out for better cargo placement) and box bikes. Also, there are industrial tricycles with room for large baskets in the back, designed to tote around large tool boxes and other, similar heavy stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably impossible to say what style of bike is best for large cargo. That's why I have several bikes, some good for hanging panniers from, some good at pulling a trailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recumbent bikes can and do carry panniers or pull trailers. However, I've never seen one with any kind of basket. Perhaps someone else can weigh in on this aspect of the question? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T21:13:52.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2851" CreationDate="2011-02-16T21:20:15.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In response to the suggestion above, here's an answer about why you might use a recumbent on a world tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Neil Fein says, comfort on the bike is a huge issue on longer rides. A recumbent offers you the &quot;lounge chair&quot; position which is much more comfortable than any upright bike. At the same time, you can also choose a more upright position than most uprights offer, so you see more. Instead of your back sloping forward and making your natural eye-line point at the road by your front wheel, your back slopes the other way and your head is naturally vertical. It's hard to describe the increased comfort because it sounds exaggerated. But I can finish a long day on a recumbent bike and feel tired, rather than really, really sore ... oh, and also tired. All the stuff about a good saddle, cycling knicks, creams, inspecting your crotch every day, caring for saddle sores... it doesn't happen on a recumbent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is more variety in recumbents in many ways, but the most common is a short wheelbase bike:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/01rIg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;short wheelbase bike on world tour&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's Mattheui's bike in Bolivia after some months on the road &lt;a href=&quot;http://tourdumondeenbent.free.fr/en/index1024_cadres.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://tourdumondeenbent.free.fr/en/index1024_cadres.html&lt;/a&gt; In my experience most recumbents end up looking like that after a few months on the road. It's just too easy to strap stuff on and keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the features listed above are present - considerable load carrying capacity, 26&quot; wheels, V brakes, derailleur gears and so on. It's a bike that can be fixed easily with parts that are readily in most of the world. The features more common on a recumbent are the rear-view mirror on the handlebars, the lack of front panniers, the tubes enclosing the chains and the stick-as-stand. Note that the wind resistance of this bike is probably greater than that of a similar upright bike, so it lacks that advantage that a recumbent would usually have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other choices. If you're not doing much riding on unsealed roads a recumbent trike offers greater stability which saves energy and lets you pay more attention to the scenery. The disadvantage is that a trike has three wheel tracks, so it's harder to avoid bumps (which is an issue for recumbents in general as it's hard to lift your weight off the seat). A long wheelbase bike is more stable than a short wheelbase bike, and it's easier to mount and dismount a loaded bike. As you might expect there is a wide range of strongly held opinions on these questions within the recumbent community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I have toured on both recumbent bikes and trikes (as well as uprights). I'm unlikely to tour on an upright again, due to the advantages of a recumbent. I did 5Mm or so on a recumbent tandem trike from Broome to Perth, and that was very stable with a huge load capacity, but slow on the hills and gravel. My SWB bike has an extra-long back rack, allowing me to carry a pro camera kit as well as touring load, and I've ridden that on a number of shorter tours (2-3Mm each). I have also toured on a SWB low racer (silly, but fun) and a recumbent four wheeler, which is as slow as the tandem but has a ridiculous load capacity (at one stage I had about 120kg on board when someone I was riding with had problems. So I strapped their Bob trailer to the top and kept going). The problem with the quad was that a chain, cassette and crankset lasted 3Mm before wearing out. All of those bikes had 406 wheels (BMX size), disk brakes on all wheels and various custom-made accessories (I make my own panniers, for instance). The bike has a Rohloff, and after the first tour so does the quad. Here's a shot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.net.nz/canc2/photo/large/009_broome_sound_system%28bindi%29.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my tandem and trailer in Broome&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(That's Mattheui's bike in Bolivia after some months on the road &lt;a href=&quot;http://tourdumondeenbent.free.fr/en/index1024_cadres.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://tourdumondeenbent.free.fr/en/index1024_cadres.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-02-16T21:28:41.970" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T21:28:41.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3003" CreationDate="2011-02-16T21:21:06.157" Score="10" ViewCount="2171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering outfitting my hybrid/commuter bike with a front dynamo hub and associated lighting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikemania.biz/Sanyo_Dynamo_Hub_NH_H26_p/sanyo_30485.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sanyo&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp?ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051151&amp;amp;bmUID=1246924812515&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/hubs/product/hub-dynamo-system-28258&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schmidt&lt;/a&gt; dynamo hubs. The Schmidt's are pretty pricey, but may be worth it? Sanyo's and Shimano's are similarly priced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure yet about compatible lighting as there are multiple choices. The key points here would be that the lights are bright, and easily removable for when my bike is parked in public bike parking areas. Another key point is that I would like to stay lit while stopped and slowly climbing hills; and I'm not sure whether this is a function of the dynamo hub or the lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommendations? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Just to say...&lt;/em&gt; After this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2864/why-are-battery-powered-lights-so-popular&quot;&gt;Why are battery-powered lights so popular?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that I'm much more interested in a dynamo solution for the commuter bike. The road bike; not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T05:45:32.943" Title="Dynamo hub lighting system recommendation" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;&lt;electric-power&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3027" CreationDate="2011-02-16T21:38:08.840" Score="1" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://swissbike.co.uk/montague-x5-paratrooper---p34/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Swissbike X5&lt;/a&gt; (same as the Montague Paratrooper, but labeled Swissbike and matte black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It came with Kenda Kinetics 26&quot; x 1.95&quot; (front and rear)  that I'd like to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to good experiences with Schwalbe, I'd like to buy the Nobby Nic, but there are many different Nobby Nic models, as well as widths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to use the bike mainly for fun riding in the forest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastEditorUserId="1119" LastEditDate="2011-02-24T07:20:47.970" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T07:20:47.970" Title="What Schwalbe Nobby Nic should I buy?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2868" CreationDate="2011-02-16T21:44:11.617" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with a four-wheel recumbent for carrying a big load any distance, just because it's comfortable and controllable. I have one, after building and trying a wide variety of load carrying bikes. It will carry 120kg in a 60x80x50cm bin (220l), and with a bit of plywood instead has carried a chest freezer and a washing machine (separately). With a trailer that has a similar bin I can carry 250kg of soil or other bulk material. It has a Rohloff hub and disk brakes on all four wheels, which makes 250kg loads relatively controllable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The classic &quot;long john&quot; bike is a good compromise - they can carry 60-80kg bulk loads quite easily and are as fast and nearly as maneuverable as a similar weight diamond frame bike. But, of course, the load is in one piece, low down in front of you. Especially when carrying kids, the advantage of being able to see your load is significant. A long john can often also take a rear rack for added capacity (but you're back to breaking the load up and putting it in panniers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can split the load, a Surly Big Dummy (or XtraCycle) works well, they're easier to ride than a long john but the split load makes them less flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For short trips an upright trike based on a rickshaw works well, but riding slightly canted over (from road camber) is a very odd sensation that takes a bit of getting used to. I've seen one of those with a wheelchair strapped to the platform which was quite cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trailers work well for loads up to about 100kg, but more than that is getting quite dangerous - if your bike falls over the trailer will not stop, it will run you over. For long loads a &quot;jinker trailer&quot; where you attach the load to your bike then the trailer to the back of the load can work really well. I've carried 6m lengths of bamboo and timber behind an upright bike this way. A cheap trailer is often a good start but they are usually poorly made and fall apart if used regularly. Expect to spend $500 or more for a trailer that will carry its rated load 5Mm or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &quot;big trailer&quot; is 1m wide by 2.4m long with four wheels and inertia braks on the front wheels. It's only safe to tow behind the quad but will take ~500kg. It's more a question of how much I can pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T21:44:11.617" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2864" CreationDate="2011-02-16T22:31:23.197" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battery powered lights are popular because of up-front costs and convenience. Also, the battery powered lights go with me between bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days one can get a set of bright, long-lasting, front-and-back, multi-attachable, battery powered lights for less than $30 (roughly 22.2 euros). And, that suits the typical recreational rider and probably most commuters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dynamo, means installation...at the most difficult is re-building a wheel; but easier is mounting a frame mounted wheel powered dynamo correctly...not to mention effectively wiring the bike. Many bike riders just don't want to deal with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T00:54:14.603" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T00:54:14.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-02-16T22:34:57.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Minneapolis, MN&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...has a three-season bike share program called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.niceridemn.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;NiceRide&lt;/a&gt;, featuring lime green cruiser bikes available at stations around the city. The bikes are quite comfortable, and an annual membership is $60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first &amp;quot;season&amp;quot; for NiceRide finished in November, here are some numbers from their end-of-season &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.niceridemn.org/news/2010/11/09/26/2010_season_comes_to_a_close_with_over_100000_rides&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;report&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total trips: 100,817&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 year    subscriptions sold: 1,295&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30-day    subscriptions sold: 89&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Casual (24hr)    subscriptions sold: 29,077&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bikes lost    or stolen: 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incidents of vandalism &amp;gt;    $100: 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No reports of serious injury.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 report of an accident involving a    car, the front wheel was damaged, but&#xA;the rider was not injured.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NiceRide has plans to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.niceridemn.org/news/2010/12/29/30/nice_ride_minnesota_expansion_-_read_the_planning_report&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;expand&lt;/a&gt; in 2011, including building stations throughout the other member of the &amp;quot;Twin Cities&amp;quot; - Saint Paul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T03:39:52.700" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-16T22:34:57.180" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2882" CreationDate="2011-02-16T23:35:17.113" Score="8" ViewCount="2290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested to build a bike but I would also like to have free software/hardware. How can I build a cyclometer with open-source software? Would it be possible to find reflashable hardware or open schematics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2012-07-07T05:00:29.730" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T14:38:28.733" Title="How can I build my own open-source cyclometer?" Tags="&lt;diy&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;open-source&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="18" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2859" CreationDate="2011-02-16T23:39:43.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a park tool breaker in the shop, but when I'm on the road it's nice to have something very small and light. The Cutter Shorty is a packable bike tool that includes a chain breaker. While not quite as easy to use as a park tool, it's perfect for packing with you. That and a spare master link, and you're set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T23:39:43.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2888" CreationDate="2011-02-16T23:41:26.330" Score="8" ViewCount="3755" Body="&lt;p&gt;By 'open-source', I mean where people see the internals of each other's designs, and build on each other's works, as they do in science (or in 'open-source' software development).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a bit tired of 'black box, it's just magic' methods where I'm expected to simply believe in something, without being able to see exactly what that thing is and how it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is very cool to reuse ideas and plans: so are there 'open-source' bike designs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T17:31:04.403" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T17:31:04.403" Title="Are there Open-source bikes?" Tags="&lt;bicycle&gt;&lt;open-source&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2879" CreationDate="2011-02-16T23:43:20.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easiest platform is probably &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arduino.cc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;arduino&lt;/a&gt; - nearest bike thing I can find is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bike-Speedometer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2018-05-29T14:36:34.930" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T14:36:34.930" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2879" CreationDate="2011-02-17T00:26:44.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most detailed account/details I've come across for building your own bike computer is here on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.piclist.com/techref/piclist/biketut/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PIClist&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those pages contain detailed instructions for building a bike computer using a PIC microcontroller linked to a Hall Effect Sensor (it detects the magnet attached to a spoke as the wheel spins). In addition to the build details it also features a detailed discussion of the design process which the creator undertook whilst creating the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T04:27:36.333" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T04:27:36.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2881" CreationDate="2011-02-17T00:39:49.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could start making your own design at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thingiverse&lt;/a&gt; and see whether people will build on it. Maybe look at some existing designs on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Instructables&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atomiczombie.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Atomic Zombie&lt;/a&gt; and work from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T11:49:48.577" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T11:49:48.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2881" CreationDate="2011-02-17T01:19:39.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a way bike frames are inherently open source. Since you get a copy of the entire object you can do what you wish with it. Since almost all the ideas are old and unpatentable, even modern intellectual property laws don't apply to much of it. The precision is relatively low, and the rider insensitive to small variations, so it's possbile to reproduce most of the design from measuring the final product. This is less true with composite parts, and suspension design is sufficiently specialised that simply copying the geometry is unlikely to work. Materials do change shape slightly during manufacture, but allowing for that is fairly straightforward for the most part (but for example thermoplastics with a 10% size change on cooling are much harder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the real design effort goes into making the frame work well with everything you bolt onto it. Getting a description of the design thought process would be more useful, but that's a book-length project at the very least. Tiny things like where exactly you put rack mounting points or at what exact angle the cable stops go can take hours of thought and experimentation. It's not micrometre accuracy, but a millimetre either way can often be crucial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we swing way out of the mainstream and start designing frames for cargo bikes, recumbents or tall bikes. Here the design effort is often more about getting something that works rather than something that's extremely polished, simply because the market is not very mature (meaning it's not a contest for a fixed-size market, it's possible to build your own entirely new market). One you move away from &quot;diamond frame bicycle&quot; the design gets a lot more complex. Simple things like rideability are not widely well understood and some universities offer physics courses in dynamic stability focussed on bicycles. &lt;a href=&quot;http://cozybeehive.blogspot.com/2009/09/dynamic-stability-of-bicycle-design.html&quot;&gt;Sample explanation here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_dynamics&quot;&gt;Wikipedia has an outline&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy detailed plans for a couple of different recumbent trikes, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/Projects/PracticalInnovations/index.html&quot;&gt;Ricky Horowitz's Thunderbolt plans&lt;/a&gt; are free and public, but still copyrighted. An open source design for a particular type of bike frame would be mostly useful as a collaborative design exercise. I suspect few people would build exactly what was described, so documenting the design process might be a more useful focus than simply describing the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T01:19:39.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2890" CreationDate="2011-02-17T04:50:14.807" Score="6" ViewCount="2136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 1988 Schwinn Le Tour. It's beginning to show its age-- the original paint is chipped in many places and the frame is rusting underneath. The worst areas, by far, are around the rear brake cable housing guides on the top tube, which I believe are brazed on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qH3kh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;closeup photo of top tube with guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to completely strip and repaint the frame. However, I'm wondering what to do about the cable housing guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the original cable housing guides are worth saving (I'm not sure it's even &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; to save them), but I don't have the tools or experience necessary to braze a new set onto the frame. I would like to avoid having a shop braze on a new set for me, unless it costs me less than, say, $50. &lt;em&gt;(Aside: I don't even know if any of the bike shops in my area still do braze-ons.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aesthetically and functionally, I think braze-ons are the best choice, but I'm open to other solutions. I have found some &lt;a href=&quot;http://aebike.com/product-list/all-city-b765/housing-guides-housing-guides-t916-m24802-qc30/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clip-on&lt;/a&gt;, clamp-on, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingcloseouts.com/Products/Jagwire-Alloy-Stick-On-Guides-w-C-Clips-Black--Box3__BR7846.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stick-on&lt;/a&gt; housing guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've dealt with the plastic clamp-on variety on another bike, and I found them to be absolutely worthless (they readily move around and rotate, so the cable never stays put).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried clip-on or stick-on guides, but I'm wary of what could be a similar lack of permanence-- I don't want to have to repeatedly reposition my cables because the housing guides are wiggly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, I see these possible ways to approach this (I would welcome any additional suggestions):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attempt to salvage the original guides, if there's anything left of them under the rust. I have to imagine that this would seriously complicate the stripping/painting process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use clip-on/stick-on guides, or clamp-on guides that work better than the ones I've used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suck it up, get the proper equipment, and learn to braze.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to find a bike shop or framebuilder that can re-do the braze-ons (and preferably doesn't charge exorbitant amounts of money for it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which should I choose, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T12:16:14.060" Title="How should I restore braze-on brake cable housing guides?" Tags="&lt;braze-on&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2881" CreationDate="2011-02-17T04:56:51.237" Score="7" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.openbike.org/wiki/Main_Page&quot;&gt;openbike.org&lt;/a&gt; (itself open) has inspired independent projects such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jetrike.com/&quot;&gt;Jetrike&lt;/a&gt; (whose author makes plans available).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Expired patents may also count as open source because inventions must be fully disclosed. See for example a linked braking system from 1978, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=W6gsAAAAEBAJ&amp;amp;dq=4102439&quot;&gt;Calderazzo's US Patent #4102439&lt;/a&gt;, which makes it very difficult to flip yourself over the bars. (I read about this in &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldcat.org/title/bicycling-science/oclc/52464706&quot;&gt;Bicycling Science&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; by David Gordon Wilson, Jim Papadopoulos, &amp;amp; Frank Rowland Whitt.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="698" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T04:56:51.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3001" CreationDate="2011-02-17T09:57:31.180" Score="16" ViewCount="10762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curiously interested in buying a bamboo bike for use as a Sunday road bike, and I'm just wondering whether they're suitable: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strength at high speed?  I live near &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parbold&quot;&gt;Parbold&lt;/a&gt;, which has nice hill for climbing and of course speeding down.  So my question is whether the bike would hold together at 40mph+?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durability in the wet?  The UK has some miserable weather. I accept that the bike would be like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suede&quot;&gt;suede&lt;/a&gt; jacket, and not something to be caught in the rain with!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight - found a quote of a 60cm road frame weighs just under 2.5 kilos.  I think that's substantially more than carbon or my titanium road bike frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Joints - Would you go for a bike frame with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bambikes.com/&quot;&gt;steel interlocking joints&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://bambike.com/&quot;&gt;bamboo throughout&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the two manufacturers I'm looking at: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bambike.com/&quot;&gt;Bamb EcoLogical Technology&lt;/a&gt; (my preferred choice) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bambikes.com/&quot;&gt;BamBikes.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a note, this is for fun, I just want to be safe.  I fully acknowledge that I won't be winning races on this bike, but not being dropped from the peloton would be good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-11-20T19:06:09.220" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T17:55:02.067" Title="Bamboo bikes - the verdict?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bamboo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2887" CreationDate="2011-02-17T12:16:14.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long time ago I used some clamp on cable housing guides on a frame &amp;amp; I didn't have any issues with them moving.  I did have a slightly larger cable housing  with teflon sleeves inside, so that the clamps could be screwed down fairly tightly and still allow for easy movement of the cable inside.  You might want to see if you can get perhaps another brand of clamp.  From memory I had some Gran-Compe by DiaCompe.  Alternatively you could try putting a thin rubber shim around the clamp to get it to grip to the frame better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other alternative I would consider would be to get a local framebuilder to remove the old guides and braze on the new ones.  I don't think it will be that pricey.  My old LBS used to do this sort of work once a week, and a job like that would only have taken about 10 minutes to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T12:16:14.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2011-02-17T15:17:17.080" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;This goes against accepted wisdom, but I think test rides are overrated. Not useless, but overrated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to own the bike for a long time presumably. You're going to be able to play with the tire pressure, the handlebar position, the seat height and fore/aft, the seat itself, the pedals, the cranks. As you develop cycling muscles, your position on the bike might change a little. If the frame size is &quot;close enough&quot;, all of these things can be adjusted to lock it in once you get riding it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could give you the same bike with different tire pressures and you would say, &quot;wow, that one was a comfortable ride&quot; or &quot;wow, that was a fast ride&quot;. You get it home, change the tire pressure, and all of a sudden it feels like a different bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like sillyyak said. . .some of the important stuff for you is going to be standover height, weight, ability to accessorize. And almost none of that is learned on an actual test ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as price and model are similar, I think it's a good idea to get a bike at the most convenient shop, or the shop where you like the people the most -- you will be going back there (repairs, clothing, helmet, lights, accessories, etc). I wouldn't rule out a test ride, but just don't use it as the deciding factor. The things a test ride reveals are not necessarily the things that matter in the long run, and can even be deceptive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let use know what you end up getting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="975" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T15:17:17.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2029" CreationDate="2011-02-17T16:08:59.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other posters: Bending back will probably not work, because every bending act weakens the metal (less for steel than for light alloy, but still).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really just liked the bike because of a &quot;certain geometry that I keep wanting to resurrect&quot;, have you considered getting a frame custom-built?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is still expensive, but probably in the same ballpark like getting the frame repaired, and you could ask the builder to make you a bike with the same geometry as the old bike (or maybe even improve it :-)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T16:08:59.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2899" CreationDate="2011-02-17T17:32:11.300" Score="19" ViewCount="3846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride relatively long distances on a road bike on Sundays, usually around 90-100 miles and have experimented much as to what to eat.  Here's what I've found so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soreen - tastes good, full of carbs, although must be buttered other the slices become a little stodgy after the fifth slice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bananas - Certain provide energy but don't &quot;fill you up&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power bars, expensive especially if you eat 5-6 on ride, but do what they say and give you a good energy boost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gels, immediate energy boost for when your really flagging.  However, taken as the sole food but prepared to much through quite a few!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special K bars, 80 kcals per bar!  I was felt hungry even after eating 8 of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snickers (Marathon) bars, great energy boost but felt like my teeth were going to fall out by the fifth.  Also this makes gum essential, plus with so much sugar you can kinda feel it come out in your skin when you sweat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I'm looking for superfood which make a perfect riding companion.  To make a good riding food it must be;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consumable - Easy to open when riding, i.e. the packet can be broken into whilst riding, either through ease of packet, or use of teeth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Digestible - goes down well tastes good, and won't repeat when I start climbing through the hills.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calories - Must contain enough calories so I can continue to ride without feeling hungry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durable - Are they going to melt in the heat?  Or become too brittle to eat in the freezing cold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be very happy for some more suggestions :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastEditorUserId="721" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T11:06:29.563" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T00:01:01.773" Title="Most suitable and tasty ride food?" Tags="&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2949" CreationDate="2011-02-17T18:13:22.357" Score="8" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does the length of the studs on winter tires affect traction on different surfaces?&#xA;I recently bought a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/nokian106.htm&quot;&gt;Nokian Hakkapeliitta W106&lt;/a&gt; tires for my around-town cruiser. These studs are pretty small, as tires go; these are meant to be good all-around winter tires, not specific ice or deep-snow tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time I go on a ride on ice or snow, I'll want to get studded tires appropriate to the conditions, probably for my 700c touring bike. (I'm hoping to find them reduced at the end of the winter season.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does the length of the stud affect handling?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of tires will I need for icy roads? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to have aggressively studded tires at the same time as full fenders (SKB plastic fenders with metal cores, in my case) or would I need to remove my fenders for the winter? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T22:55:50.897" Title="How does the length of the studs on winter tires affect traction on ice?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2894" CreationDate="2011-02-17T18:57:56.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nuts: walnuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking pre-shelled walnut halves (walnust halves may/should be fresher than chopped walnuts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are about 30 calories per whole walnut, or 185 per ounce (contrast with 96 calories per ounce of sugar): because it's from fat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T18:57:56.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2894" CreationDate="2011-02-17T20:07:57.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Granola/Power bars are cheap if you get the supermarket/Nature Valley ones, usually $10 for 32 double packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can make your own - lot of recipes on the net. Basically melt butter / sugar / honey and add anything oat / fruit / nut like, spread on a tray and put in fridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T20:07:57.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2895" CreationDate="2011-02-17T20:14:30.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are on-road I would have thought that even very small studs would work on ice, you only need to bite into the ice a little bit to get grip.&#xA;If you need to get a grip in snow, or there is snow over the ice you would need longer spikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if there is snow over ice - I take the bus!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T20:14:30.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2894" CreationDate="2011-02-17T20:43:24.833" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years ago I ran across a recipe that Team Garmin uses (or did at the time). It's boiled potatoes with a bit of olive oil and salt. If you wrap it up right it's easy to carry, unwrap and eat while riding. I'm not sure how many of these you could carry. I've tried it on medium rides (40 to 50 miles) and they were great. I can't find the text of the original recipe but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vitalrecipe.com/view/7w8h846a2/dr-allen-lim-s-boiled-potato-recipe/&quot;&gt;here is a video&lt;/a&gt; that shows how to cook and wrap them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are very cheap, they do require that you have some water to get them down, but the olive oil helps a lot. The potassium in the potato is great and they digest easily. I'm not sure I'd eat 5 or 6, but perhaps as one or two of the 5 or six snacks you go through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T20:43:24.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2011-02-17T20:50:23.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've commuted by bus + 12 km Strida every workday for about a year and a half now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before my purchase, I researched the folding market thoroughly, and came to the conclusion that Strida was by far the best option. I've never regretted that decision, and even bought a Strida for my wife for casual riding (found one new on dba.dk for 2.250 DKK) due to my fascination for the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must add that besides the quickest possible folding/unfolding time, my requirements also included that the bike should endure being outside during office hours, and the harsh Scandinavian winter (I live in Malmö, but work in Copenhagen) is not kind to bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Strida differs in that respect since basically everything is made of aluminum with a front pulley made of plastic and a belt drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon two winters have passed, and everything is as good as new! Marvelous! Oh, and the bus company really like the grease-free belt drive!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my fellow commuters fell in love with the bike, but wasn't sure, so he bought a Chinese fake Strida off of the German ebay. The frame broke after two months!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice to you is to look for a used Strida (preferably a v.5+ model with rear aluminum pulley) instead of buying a new lesser bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T20:50:23.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2011-02-17T23:03:55.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two really harsh winters with my Pro-Tec B2 Snow  + transparent Peltor Virtua glasses , and I couldn't be more comfortable :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just clicked on the &quot;submit your order&quot; button, and hopefully am receiving a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.se/images?q=poc+receptor+bug&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=zShkTfCDM8fNswbQt8m2CA&amp;amp;ved=0CGcQsAQ&amp;amp;biw=1333&amp;amp;bih=657&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;POC Receptor Bug&lt;/a&gt; in the next few days. The security of that helmet i supposed to be very good, and I finally found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.naturkompaniet.se/Product/Product.aspx?id=67475&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one on sale&lt;/a&gt; (599:- SEK incl. p&amp;amp;p).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastEditorUserId="1119" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T21:22:19.913" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T21:22:19.913" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2889" CreationDate="2011-02-18T00:12:02.643" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made one, and I'm currently in the process of building another.&#xA;I'm going to paraphrase you here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Will it hold together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Yes the joins are quite strong, and mainly depend on how much of the fibre you wrap them with (resin just fills the gaps, the fibre holds the joints together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Will it hold together if you're going 40mph?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: My first bike is a mountain bike, and I've had it near that speed on a paved road, but it was too flexible and started to wobble in an unsettling, but not dangerous manner (the first bike is really an experiment so deficiencies like this are expected).  The second bike should not have this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Durability in the wet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: The bamboo should be sealed with a number of coats of exterior varnish, or resin.  My bike has shown no signs of bother even when ridden in rain, through streams and puddles.  I doubt that this is an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Are they heavy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: That depends on the construction, species of bamboo, when it was picked.  My first bike frame weighed approximately the same as the aluminum frame bike that was cannibalized for its parts.  I haven't weighed the frame of my bike, but 2.5 kilos sounds a lot heavier than what I produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Joints - Would you go for a bike frame with steel interlocking joints or bamboo through out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: The joints are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; bamboo, in my case I use hemp twine and wrap enough of it to get 1-2 tonnes of holding force per joint.  I doubt that steel is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="951" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T00:12:02.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2904" CreationDate="2011-02-18T01:09:04.857" Score="12" ViewCount="4361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think requirements are &lt;em&gt;reusable, simple, small-size and things-to-easily-to-carry&lt;/em&gt;. There are exotic answers with chain clearers and other things that do not qualify to me simple. Perhaps, the Sheldown-Brown's shake is closest, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/692/what-to-use-to-clean-your-chain-and-cogs/706#706&quot;&gt;here,&lt;/a&gt; to clean chains and then lube -- you can get bottles everywhere and alkali/white-spirit-whatever available to the bottle. But there may be more solutions. How do you maintain chains during touring? (open question: no season specified, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T01:58:12.960" Title="How to maintain chains during touring?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2903" CreationDate="2011-02-18T01:42:59.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preferences is to use a wax lube every day and just apply, ride, wipe and ignore. But that fits with my style of touring - I free camp and usually get up, pack, ride then eat. So lubing my chain every day is part of the pack out ritual. But it also depends where I am and what I'm doing. In much of the Australian tropics a sticky lube will not work because the dust is iron ore, so sticking that dust to your chain kills it (the dust also dyes everything you own a dull orange brown). In wetter country a wet, sticky lube might work better but at the cost of greasy chain marks on whatever it touches, so I usually stick with the wax lube. Any solvent based lube has the advantage that it can be used to clean your chain, just by over-applying it and wiping immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between this and commuting is that I don't maintain my commuter bikes anywhere near as often. Sure, technically &quot;every 100km-ish&quot; is daily on the touring bike and weekly on the commuter, but my commuter gets maintained when I remember, or when I notice something wrong. I ride past several bike shops every day commuting, but generally have no idea whether there's a bike shop at all when I'm touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently experimenting with a grease/solvent lube because that also works well on cables, so it's more of a universal lubricant. But it's dirtier and I'm not convinced I'd want to use it when touring. So I will be carrying both next time I tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean &quot;should I carry a chain cleaning kit&quot; the answer is no. Most bike shops will have some way to clean a chain if you really, really need to, and paying for that might even be cheaper than buying a new chain. If you get it caked in mud or something borrow a hose then re-lube it. I rarely use the cleaning machine I have at home, so carrying it on the road is way down the list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T01:54:21.710" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T01:54:21.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2894" CreationDate="2011-02-18T02:07:59.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've become addicted to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tankabar.com/cgi-bin/nanf/public/main.cvw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tanka Bars&lt;/a&gt; as savory alternative to the usual round of sweet energy bars, etc. They're pemmican (Bison meat pounded with cranberries, salt and spices) made by the Lakota Sioux, and since my wife and I started getting them, our boxes of Builder Bars have been gathering dust. You can get them in mild and &quot;Spicy Pepper Blend&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They won't give you a jolt of quick energy, but man, the protein really sticks with you and keeps you going! The one gotcha is they're only 70 calories apiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="645" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T02:07:59.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2011-02-18T02:37:03.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an earlier version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.downtube.com/ss-index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;downtube&lt;/a&gt; about 5yrears ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixed feelings, it has some nice features - folding pedals, nice chain guard, comfortable position and a bit of suspension to make up for the small wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Component quality left a bit to be desired, a nine speed no-name rear with friction twist grips to select!  It folds - but only in a store under the stairs sense - if you need something that collapses into your pocket, get a Brompton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps. When they used to sell on ebay and with a favorable exchange rate I paid around $250&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T02:37:03.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2011-02-18T04:12:39.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abc.net.au/tv/newinventors/txt/s2885740.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fire Fly&lt;/a&gt;.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKLfk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FireFly Bicycle Light&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Firefly light uses a Passive Infrared sensor in order to detect traffic approaching from behind the rider. Upon detection LEDs flash onto the back of the rider with varying intensity depending on the proximity of the traffic. The protruding arm of the device allows the light to illuminate the entire back of the rider at any angle. A set of LEDs also illuminate the ground beneath the rider; providing traffic with a proximity of depth which can be used to determine exactly where the rider is. While a rear tail-light provides strong rear presence and meets bicycle light requirements.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it's in production yet, but still a really great idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastEditorUserId="568" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T06:15:27.077" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T06:15:27.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2911" CreationDate="2011-02-18T04:51:41.707" Score="10" ViewCount="8249" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since misunderstood question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2875/items-required-to-manufacture-a-diy-bike&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, a new question with narrow scope. So what are equipments need for frame-building?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:48:00.927" Title="Equipment needed for Frame-building?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2908" CreationDate="2011-02-18T05:11:43.617" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The minimum tool set is something that gets discussed on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phred.org/mailman/listinfo/framebuilders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;framebuilders list&lt;/a&gt; and other forums from time to time. I think the consensus is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a heat source, usually oxy-acetelene or arc welder but you can start with MAPP (oxy-propane) which is cheaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a cheap hacksaw and 32tpi blade (technically you could use a file instead but don't)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a half-round file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a drill (even a hand drill) and 3-4 drill bits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a pen or scribing tool (even a nail will do)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you'd have more than that but you could build a bike with only those tools. But that is &quot;making a point&quot; territory. More realistically you would add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a vise, preferably bolted to a workbench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a decent hacksaw and several blades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;several half round files and a flat file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a set of locking pliers (vice grips or similar) to hold hot metal with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a hand punch (spring punch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a small paint brush for applying flux, and a wire brush for removing it (if you're brazing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a grinder with cutting and grinding disks and a wire brush (easier than hand tools for rough work)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an internet search engine, for answering random questions at odd hours :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to start building bikes I strongly suggest joining the framebuilders list or some of the online forums. There's a heap of things you can do to make your life easier, and having someone you can visit to see how they do stuff will teach you things you don't even think to ask. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atomiczombie.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Atomic Zombie&lt;/a&gt; crew or other garage homebuilders would be perfect if there's a group like that near you. Recumbent homebuilders are often equally useful and will probably help you even if you want to build a wedgie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage is that you built it yourself, and if you want something unusual you can build it. The disadvantage is that it's an expensive, time-consuming way to get an inferior bike. The first one you build will not be professional quality, you'll be lucky if it works at all. So if you want a traditional diamond frame bike the only reason to build it is because you can (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.littlefishbicycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like Suzy did&lt;/a&gt;). If you want a weird bike then you might find you have to either pay a professional framebuilder or do it yourself. Unless you already have a metalworking shop, it's cheaper to pay someone, even if they've never done anything like your bike before (so you get a first attempt that kinda works).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reward is that you get something you built yourself. It's especially fulfilling when someone you approached initially who refused to build it sees your version and turns it into a commercial product (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greenspeed.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Greenspeed&lt;/a&gt; make a tandem that converts to a solo trike now, because I showed them it could be done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(moved from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2875/items-required-to-manufacture-a-diy-bike/2878#2878&quot;&gt;Items required to manufacture a DIY bike?&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T05:11:43.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2908" CreationDate="2011-02-18T05:24:27.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A different answer: you could build a composite bicycle using the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a sharp knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sandpaper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(disposable) paintbrushes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a metal ruler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a flat surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shape a polystyrene core then layer carbon or glass fibre over it, adding metal inserts as required for dropouts, bottom bracket etc. You would need to buy the metal parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you would probably want to add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(disposable) facemask and filters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(disposable) gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;timber and metal supports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;vacuum bagging gear (compressor, bags, hoses, fittings etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a vacuum cleaner for collecting the offcuts and polystyrene shavings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/howibuil.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Damon Rinard&lt;/a&gt; did it with not a lot more than that and his &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/carbon_fiber.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;full version&lt;/a&gt; page lists all the tools and other stuff he used to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T07:03:59.620" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T07:03:59.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7565" CreationDate="2011-02-18T05:31:25.960" Score="0" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Got the idea to this question from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2908/equipment-needed-for-frame-building/2911#2911&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt;, guiding in framebuilding.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot jump directly to welding before I have a cheap working prototype, due to tight budget. In architecture of houses, they use balsa or bass woods to build scale models. Bicycles are  in a way more complicated to houses that you have gears, cogs, anti-vibration-structure and equipment -positions to design. When you suggest prototyping, please, tell me &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; you use it? For example, how can you kill vibration in the very beginning? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T04:40:00.567" Title="Cheap prototypes for bicycles?" Tags="&lt;prototype&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3007" CreationDate="2011-02-18T06:18:30.680" Score="4" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a bit lost even to find the shortest safe way to the nearest city. How do you choose your routes for long journeys? Do you need to do compromises very often or change plans?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T17:21:23.553" Title="How to plan routes for touring?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3004" CreationDate="2011-02-18T06:45:41.450" Score="2" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please, justify each item/action you take/do to qualify to be &lt;code&gt;self-supportive&lt;/code&gt; during touring. My problem is independent touring around the world. The term &lt;em&gt;self-support&lt;/em&gt; per se means no extra luggage, among other things, because you cannot carry them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt; I will award the bounty to person who makes my hope possible: I&#xA;  want a new clearer community wiki&#xA;  -format so that no-one will get credit and everyone are free to make edits,&#xA;  without creating duplicate answers and&#xA;  keeping this question clearer and more&#xA;  accessible for future users. If there&#xA;  is no willing mod, I will reward the&#xA;  bounty to a person that makes the&#xA;  largest contribution to find&#xA;  self-supportive tips on this site or&#xA;  other sites, appropriate to touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Discussion in meta &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/258/what-does-self-support-mean-during-touring&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:19:26.173" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T17:08:47.970" Title="What does self-support mean during touring?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2011-02-18T17:58:03.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since self-sustainability is a question of degree, I don't think there is a definitive answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, self-sustainable mainly means that there is not bus following me or my group. So I take along everything I need during the day. To me it also means that I carry all my luggage (no luggage transport for tours of more than one day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never gone so far as to try and avoid buying anything during the day, as I generally cycle in populated areas, but it might make sense if you are cycling in remote areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T17:58:03.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2894" CreationDate="2011-02-18T18:00:13.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find Clif Bars to be a pretty good solution. They're easy to open, they go down relatively easily, they don't melt or freeze (ever try eating a powerbar on a cold day?) and they have about 200+ calories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On rides shorter than 3 hours, I just take a couple of packets of Gu, one bottle of water, and one bottle of lightly-mixed gatorade (I mix from powder since the full-strength stuff leaves the mouth quite sticky on a ride).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On longer outings, I'll take the Gu and a Clif Bar per 2 hours, and lots more water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T18:00:13.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2913" CreationDate="2011-02-18T18:16:42.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful if you outlined what your goals are. Are you trying to create a new style of bike from scratch? Are you tweaking an existing frame/design for comfort? What are expecting to get out our your model? There are also physical modeling tools like Legos or erector sets, and virtual computer tools like AutoCAD or Rhino. The tools depend on what you are trying for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1124" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T18:16:42.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2868" CreationDate="2011-02-18T18:25:17.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atomiczombie.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.atomiczombie.com&lt;/a&gt; has designs for cargo trailers and bikes if you would like to try and roll your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1124" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-11T02:55:44.593" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T02:55:44.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2894" CreationDate="2011-02-18T22:55:35.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An old stand-by is fig bars. I typically get them in bulk bins at a local food co-op. Figs are rich in potassium and other minerals, as well as being a decent carb source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T22:55:35.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2913" CreationDate="2011-02-19T02:04:09.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try making a bamboo bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The materials required:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bamboo of 2 different sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hemp twine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy resin.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Donor bike for parts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a hacksaw and or a dremel or angle grinder to cut the metal parts you need off of the donor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you do some web searches for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T02:04:09.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2929" CreationDate="2011-02-19T02:38:35.670" Score="11" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This totally unrelated &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1817/urban-cycling-safety-innovations/1821#1821&quot;&gt;reply&lt;/a&gt; raised my question about traffic lights.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am starting to think that my chinese head lamp is a magical instrument, every time I go near traffic lights they turn green. It is hilarious to drive in heavy-traffic and just that you get green lights! Perhaps just a placebo feeling so I want to know how your traffic lights behave to you when you are driving within other traffic? How do they notice you with/without lights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I need to explain how it works. I have head lamp with blinking white light and particularly when it is very dark, the traffic lights are clearly programmed somehow to detect the intensity variation of lights and then turn green. I have heard that emergency cars show some kind of special light to turn lights green for them. But I suspect whether the head-lamp contains some special light, it was the cheapest model I found from eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T16:49:13.417" Title="How do Traffic Lights Notice Bicyclists?" Tags="&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2931" CreationDate="2011-02-19T02:54:11.613" Score="3" ViewCount="1225" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, that is it. I want better roads, more safe roads, better maintained roads to bicyclists so I am looking for bicycle-politized groups or advocate groups around the world. I believe they may have done a lot of pioneering work about bicycling like in the safety -issue. So do not let the word &lt;code&gt;politics&lt;/code&gt; stray you, I am also interested in their research and material/projects they may have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The question is general, I am not limiting this answer to any specific country.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-19T19:34:55.070" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T22:31:26.077" Title="Which are bicycle-politicized groups or advocate groups?" Tags="&lt;advocacy&gt;&lt;bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2937" CreationDate="2011-02-19T03:44:35.500" Score="6" ViewCount="3329" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2903/how-to-maintain-chains-during-touring/2904#2904&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; about chain maintenance during touring raised this question.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tip sounds unintuitive, of course, I know that the extra lube will attract dust (not good to chain) but I have paid for the lube. My biased view is that when I just ride fast enough it will just fall off because I use liquid Teflon lube but I don't want to limit this question only to Teflon lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, tell me should you really wipe extra lubricant from your chains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should you wipe it? Is piece of WC-paper enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the term &lt;code&gt;to wipe&lt;/code&gt; really mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you wipe things similarly with all kind of lubes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, note that there is a huge variety of lubes, more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2738/how-do-you-evaluate-and-choose-chain-lubricants/2817#2817&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T08:10:54.120" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T08:10:54.120" Title="Why is it important to wipe excess lubricant off your chain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1666" CreationDate="2011-02-19T04:42:09.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do not reinvent the wheel!&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most replies just list things -- they don't tell you &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; you can get them all-in-one. Well, here is a shortcut: do not search for &lt;code&gt;cycling lenses&lt;/code&gt; instead &lt;code&gt;ballistic lenses&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;SWDG&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;ESS&lt;/code&gt;. They are standardized products so you will surely know whether you can use them with prescription lenses, just google their SKU and check the manual -- no pling-pling marketing in-between, just pure data, cool. Do not let its look stray your thinking from bicycles, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.olive-drab.com/od_soldiers_gear_eyewear_swdg.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, the bottom has a search that covers pretty new development things about the lenses. My favourite products are by ESS and, by the way, they do manufacture more eye-protecting things, not just goggles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do like with this kind of products is that they are high-quality products and tend to be cheap bought as surplus, no Lidl-style marketing needed. I can guarantee such eye-protectors work fine during variety of riding from very cold winter riding to sandy allergenic summer riding. Flying stones, mud and snow are none, even among other traffic and even if you are very allergenic or don't like poor quality of air during some seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-04-26T08:54:22.347" LastActivityDate="2011-04-26T08:54:22.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2978" CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:00:22.837" Score="17" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to wrap a handlebar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I start near the stem or at the bar ends?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;wrap clockwise or counter-clockwise?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How to wrap (e.g. how many times) around where the brake hoods are?   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T22:21:06.560" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T19:09:12.993" Title="How do I wrap a road bike handlebar?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;best-practice&gt;&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2923" CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:27:17.800" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two basic types of intersection detection systems out there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Induction loop coils:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;These are basically a metal loop or figure 8 embedded in the pavement, and will detect anything that conducts electricity. Much like a metal detector, such as you might walk through at the airport. Sometimes you can see lines carved into the road surface. Getting your wheel over the lines will help you get picked up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cameras:&lt;/strong&gt; You may be able to see the cameras, even.  These are generally black and white cameras that are programmed with areas they pick up for each lane and do some sampling things and if the samples look different than the &quot;baseline&quot;, that's a detection. If your headlamp is helping, this is the type of detector in use at that intersection. A bright light will definitely be picked up at night. Light clothes that contrast with the color of the road surface will also help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T05:27:17.800" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2011-02-19T06:10:07.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any truly worldwide organizations of that type, and doubt any are out there. I believe you'll have an easier time finding a local organization. I believe a local organization is also going to be more effective at achieving the goals you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycle advocacy of getting better infrastructure (roads, paths, lanes, etc) will have to be focused on the government agencies responsible for constructing and maintaining that infrastructure. Laws about bicycles are an important aspect, too. Cities, counties, states, provinces and countries are responsible for roads and laws, not international/worldwide organizations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I live in California, in a city about 50 miles from San Francisco. There's a local county-wide organization (bicycle coalition) that works with the county-wide government and the governments of many of the cities inside the county. That county bicycle coalition is affiliated with an organization that covers the whole San Francisco bay area and deals primarily with programs that cover that whole area. Then there is a California-wide coalition. And there are several US-wide national organizations, with one (the League of American Bicyclists) that they all seem to work with somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also organizations that advocate for non-automobile (&quot;alternative&quot;) transportation, for pedestrians, for public transportation, for less fossil-fuel usage, etc. Some of those are focused specifically on their particular issue, but many include some amount of bicycle advocacy, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeleague.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;League of American Bicyclists&lt;/a&gt; (nation-wide US organization) has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeleague.org/links/advocacy.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of international and US nationwide organizations&lt;/a&gt; on their website.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask at your &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/254#254&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt; like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1097/chrisw&quot;&gt;@ChrisW&lt;/a&gt; says above. The bike shop is likely to be a member of at least one advocacy organization, since better bicycle infrastructure will help them sell more bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find out about local public meetings related to planning for cycling infrastructure, show up and look for other bicyclists there (does your city have a council/board that meets regularly and publicly that you can find out the agenda for and check when there's transportation issues on the agenda? Maybe a committee or board or something that plans the city's transportation?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some other dedicated bicycle-people together, start your own, and figure out who in your local government to talk to in order to improve the bicycle infrastructure in your own area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T06:10:07.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2011-02-19T09:11:13.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a global level, there are two different takes on whether helmets should be illegal, or recommended at all, and what effect that has on bicycling in the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclehelmets.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Helmet Research Foundation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikehelmetsnow.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strike&gt;The International Safety Union for Cyclists&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (broken link).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tedxtalks.ted.com/video/TEDxCopenhagen-Mikael-Colville&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A TEDx talk by an advocate of the former&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I started wearing a helmet when my first kid was born seven years ago, but find the discussion very interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T11:17:53.653" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T11:17:53.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3022" CreationDate="2011-02-19T09:37:32.890" Score="11" ViewCount="2176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a very old bicycle from the xUSSR days in my garage (outside UK atm). I'm not sure what year / model it is, to be honest...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been commuting to work (8.5 miles each way) almost every day since last summer on a Pinnacle Stratus hybrid, and eventually the idea of using an actual road / track bike to ride to work becomes more and more appealing :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the chain / gears / casette will most likely have to go. Wheels will be replaced and so on.. Seems like the only thing left will be the actual frame.. So in the end - will this still be a good idea, or am I just going to lose money in the end? How much should I expect it to cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said - I don't have the year/model but I've got some photos of it here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/JqFX0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/JqFX0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you all think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="405" LastEditorUserId="405" LastEditDate="2012-12-09T23:20:49.463" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T15:37:01.090" Title="Restoring an old xUSSR bicycle for commuting... Feasible? Silly?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2982" CreationDate="2011-02-19T14:26:11.863" Score="5" ViewCount="1540" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live we have very cold winds blowing in from Russia's Siberia. It is freezing despite the fact that I have all kinds of extra winter clothing like &lt;em&gt;commando balaclava&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;SPD winter shoes&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;ESS goggles&lt;/em&gt; -- but my toes are still freezing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would you suggest I wear to keep my toes warm? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-19T15:46:03.197" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T08:58:46.677" Title="What to put on or inside winter-SPD-boots to keep toes warm?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2933" CreationDate="2011-02-19T15:35:32.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;MEC advise, on their web site, that the cheapest way to keep your shoes dry is a plastic bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also sell &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_listing.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302692723&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shoe covers&lt;/a&gt;: some for rain and some (with neoprene and microfleece) for winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T15:35:32.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2913" CreationDate="2011-02-19T16:36:18.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For Physical prototypes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hot glue -gun to attach the elements&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;physical blocks for example by Legos, also other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neodymium magnet toys for example by Magnetix, rare-earth-magnets and industrial magnets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;breadboards for electric prototyping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wooden sticks and wooden elements&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plastic, Super -glue, plastic bender, --&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T10:26:44.437" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T10:26:44.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2925" CreationDate="2011-02-19T17:55:26.247" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary purpose of chain lube is to lubricate the rollers and other internal parts of each link, not to lubricate the outside. Excess lube on the outside of the chain will get dirt stuck to it, that dirt will slowly work its way into the rollers that you're trying to protect, and dirt inside will grind away at the internal parts and wear out the chain faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use toilet-paper (WC-paper), as that's usually pretty flimsy and will leave bits of itself behind. You don't want to wipe with something that will leave anything behind. Use a lint-free rag of some sort.  I either use a worn out dish towel or a worn out sock. A sturdy paper towel would probably be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I interpret &quot;to wipe&quot; as meaning to rub an absorbent cloth against all 4 sides of the entire length of the chain, such that there's only a thin coating of lubricant left behind (no visible drops).  I would usually wait a few minutes and ride the bike around to give the lube a chance to penetrate into the internal parts of the chain, then wipe off the outside of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-19T19:44:22.837" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T19:44:22.837" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2011-02-19T18:30:18.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, in many countries there is a nationwide cycling advocacy group, often organized similarly to motoring clubs. In Germany there is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ADFC&quot;&gt;ADFC&lt;/a&gt;, the Netherlands have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietsersbond.nl/&quot;&gt;Fietsersbond&lt;/a&gt;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A international umbrella organization is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_Cyclists%27_Federation&quot;&gt;European Cyclists'Federation&lt;/a&gt;. I don't think there is any global umbrella organization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These organizations are all part service organizations, offering things like advice, insurance, member newletters, guided tours etc., and part political/advocacy organizations, which lobby politicians, work for better conditions for cyclists, promote environmental measures etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just google, there may well be a similar organization close to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I am an ADFC member.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T18:30:18.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3009" CreationDate="2011-02-19T18:34:19.873" Score="9" ViewCount="5404" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are your touring-riding clothes a lot different than, let say, clothes for riding to work? Do you wear better or different clothes for touring? Have you found some good way to wash your clothes during touring? And how does washing affect your choice of clothing? How do you keep your touring clothes during touring? You surely need to separate dirty, clean and wet-clean clothes. How do you manage them? If you just washed your clothes in some sea and you need to continue riding, how do you guarantee that the water will evaporate? Do you choose your clothes in a way that they get dry fast? Which criteria you have for touring clothes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T19:31:22.957" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T18:52:31.100" Title="Clothes during touring?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2959" CreationDate="2011-02-19T18:44:54.907" Score="17" ViewCount="1294" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you attach your map to the bike or have some sort of desktop or how do you maintain your map during touring? You surely need some sort of cover but if you have how do you attach it to your bike or do you keep it in your pocket? Exploring different ways for maps, seen some pannier-attached map things but there are surely many other. Experiences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-19T22:17:07.887" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T19:20:51.090" Title="Map during touring?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;maps&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2940" CreationDate="2011-02-19T18:56:39.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's usually in my pocket. My long distance riding is often in remote areas, so I find that I usually don't need a map right in front of me since route changes are frequently miles (kilometers) apart. If in a tricky route area &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/637973&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;perhaps something like this&lt;/a&gt;. A map cover could probably be homemade pretty easily if one was so inclined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-19T19:32:18.707" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T19:32:18.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2940" CreationDate="2011-02-19T20:33:32.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually make my map before and upload it on my garmin, i have the same map on my phone via google map in case i need more details (which I keep in my backpocket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i don't want to go to a certain location but just want to ride, I let my garmin goes and use the &quot;return home&quot; feature when it start to get late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1067" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T20:33:32.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2954" CreationDate="2011-02-19T20:58:06.970" Score="15" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;What are the remedies for when one bonks in the midst of a long ride? What is the first aid so that one can continue?&quot; –&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discussion of how to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;prevent&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; bonking is not necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Definition =&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bonking or &quot;hitting the wall&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is to reach a level of exhaustion that makes a cyclist or runner unable to go further...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-02-19T23:33:21.833" LastActivityDate="2020-02-12T07:02:22.083" Title="Bonk! And solutions" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-02-19T21:13:14.203" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia articles say that glycogen is depleted at about the 2-hour mark; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glycogen#Glycogen_debt_and_endurance_exercise&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;it references articles which talk about caffeine&lt;/a&gt;, together with carbohydrates, to hasten recovery: although, they are talking about recovery &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; exercise, rather than continuing exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collapse can also be caused by hypovolaemia rather than hypoglycemia (for which a cure would be to drink and manage your electrolytes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-02-19T23:38:44.117" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T23:38:44.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2913" CreationDate="2011-02-19T21:57:59.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What actual problem are you trying to solve, or what experiment are you trying to perform, what question are you trying to answer, by making a prototype? E.g. architectural models may try to solve problems like, &quot;What will it look like?&quot; and &quot;Is there enough space for the plumbing?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However models, which have a different size and are made of different materials than the finished product, don't necessarily model/simulate the physical performance/behviour of the finished product (e.g. vibrations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, how do they plan weight distribution in their models? How do they beforehand see vibrational problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To experiment with physical properties like vibration, I'll guess they use &lt;strong&gt;full-scale prototypes, made of actual metal&lt;/strong&gt;: identical to the finished mass-manufactured article, except hand-made one-offs instead of mass-produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to get by with a scale model (e.g. quarter-size), so long as it's made from a sufficiently similar material (e.g. welded steel). Using anything else (e.g. LEGO blocks or balsa wood) would not, I guess, be a useful prototype, because its mechanical properties are too dissimilar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility might be a computer model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand (as an example of a different problem being able to use a different kind of prototype) if you were trying to model the wind resistance instead of the vibration: because a thing's interaction with the air depends on its external/superficial shape, more than on mechanical properties like stiffness, for that you could use a different material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In his autobiography, Freeman Dyson asserted that the reason why motorcycles are reliable is because there have been so many different generations of them since they were invented, with each new one building on and correcting the problems with the previous versions (he contrasted that with nuclear power stations, saying that there haven't been 100s of generations of those).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T21:57:59.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-02-19T22:32:35.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution I've ever had for bonking is a cola.  Full of pure sugary goodness and water plus caffeine.  If seriously exhausted, five minutes off the bike lying down with your eyes closed can help you eke out more miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second best solution I've had is beer.  Often times if I stop to have a beer or two I don't even mind that I'm not continuing to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T22:32:35.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2895" CreationDate="2011-02-19T22:55:50.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're not really that short; compare them to the studs in studded car tires, for example.  A tiny bit of metal gives you a huge amount of traction on ice.  The real trick is that, unless you're purely riding on frozen lakebeds, you need studs small enough to deform into the tire when riding on pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In icy conditions I ride 37mm Nokian W240's, they fit just fine under my 65mm Cascadia 29er fenders.  In snowy conditions, however, the snow can build up under the fender and make it difficult to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are planning on riding long distances in deep snow there are only a small number of options, chief among which are the the Surly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.surlybikes.com/parts/endomorph_tire/&quot;&gt;Endomorph&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.surlybikes.com/parts/larry_tire/&quot;&gt;Larry&lt;/a&gt; tires. At 3.5&quot; wide and at low PSI there is no comparing with a smaller tire.  Of course, you need a special bike and rims to run those beasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T22:55:50.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2962" CreationDate="2011-02-19T23:04:10.457" Score="9" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A problem with this kind of tasty food &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2894/most-suitable-and-tasty-ride-food&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is that you become depended on it, usually having no such luxuries so a more spartan question.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a lot of vitamin supplements for B, C, D and Calcium. B, D and Calcium require oil to absorb so they are in green containers like in the picture. C is water-soluble so it is in blue container, good after tiresome touring to get them fast. I use different sized containers such as this large &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/aluminium-alloy-pill-shaped-keychain-27551?r=36798618&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; and this small &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/aluminum-pill-shaped-keychain-color-assorted-34158?r=36798618&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but use these ones &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/aluminum-alloy-pill-shaped-keychain-assorted-color-33302?r=36798618&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for color-coding. You cannot use permanent marker on the aluminium surface because it gets away fast, I used scissors to do the markings. The black one is for emergency, details &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/318/what-are-important-items-for-a-touring-first-aid-kit/3017#3017&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bdoXU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I use a lot of dry things such as soy powder (protein), muesli(good to have in pocket, just because I like it), salt(essential to get after long riding) and sucker (good to get energy fast). They don't weigh much. Then, I just throw random things I can pick during journey like vegetables and fruits. What about your food during touring? How do you eat during touring? I am interested in a self-sustainable way of living that guarantee necessary intake of important vitamins-calories-and-such-things. I have no idea whether soy powder, for example, is available everywhere so perhaps you must substitute its protein with something else in different locations. So what is your touring food?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Something about Protein sources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/13422/how-to-cook-insects&quot;&gt;How to cook insects?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/8332/cheap-sources-of-protein&quot;&gt;Cheap sources of protein?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:38.350" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T01:01:38.283" Title="Food during touring?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-20T01:19:05.300" Score="14" ViewCount="6519" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to file off the &quot;lawyer lips&quot; - the little tabs on the end of the fork dropouts - on my carbon road fork? What about cyclocross forks?  I've heard it's &quot;common sense&quot; to remove them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/moy2d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lawyer tabs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T21:29:23.407" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T19:10:14.477" Title="Is it safe to remove &quot;lawyer tabs&quot; on a carbon fork?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2011-02-20T01:36:17.807" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are skiing helmets designed to protect you from the same kind of acidents that you would have on a bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an article, for what it's worth, about the kind[s] of accidents that skiing helmets are designed to protect you from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://skicanadamag.com/helmet-science/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Science Behind Helmets&lt;/a&gt; ... in summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My colleagues and I are strong believers in helmets and encourage everyone to use one. On the other hand, we are equally strong believers in the notion that helmets are not panaceas, and have an extremely limited ability to prevent serious head injuries. ...  most snowsports fatalities due to head impact with solid fixed objects such as a tree take place at speeds of 44 kph or more ...  only about 2.6 per cent of all medically significant injuries are what we call a potentially serious head injury (PSHI): a diagnosed skull fracture, concussion, closed head injury or traumatic brain injury (TBI). . This is in contrast to the broad defi nition of a head injury as “any injury above the neck,” which includes minor injuries such as scalp lacerations and the like. ... Kinetic energy goes up as the square of the velocity ... If those hard, cold facts are kept in mind, it’s easier to see and understand why helmets are fairly effective at preventing minor head injuries such as scalp lacerations, but not so good at preventing the more serious forms of head injury, especially fatalities due to direct impact with fixed objects. The public expects far more than a helmet could ever be expected to deliver. ... Our research and the research of others has consistently shown a 35- to 50-per-cent reduction in head injury if a head injury is defined as “any injury above the neck.” Helmets prevent close to 100 per cent of relatively minor head injuries (lacerations), but are far less effective at preventing serious head injury (concussions, closed head injury, subdural haematoma and so on). ... We believe that the kinetic energy in many death scenarios may be so massive as to overwhelm the degree of protection that any helmet could offer. Many fatalities appear to occur under circumstances that are likely to exceed the protective capacity of current helmets designed for recreational snowsports. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another (but related) subject, according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2924/which-are-bicycle-politicized-groups-or-advocate-groups/2931#2931&quot;&gt;the web sites referenced in this answer&lt;/a&gt; there is even, apparently, some controversy over whether bicycle helmets will protect you from the kind of accidents that you would have on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2017-08-24T10:26:50.577" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T10:26:50.577" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-02-20T02:08:00.523" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bonking is normally caused by lack of food.  I happen to be an expert at this (just bonked on a ride today, in fact).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Treatment is easy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eat something -- even if you don't want to (which is often the case)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Catch your breath and then continue at an easy pace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the calories hit your bloodstream, you'll start to feel better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sugary foods work fastest but need to be followed up later with something more substantial or you'll just bonk again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diagnosing the bonk can be tough.  You'll feel tired, grumpy, unmotivated and wonder if your legs are shot.  Eating will probably be the last thing on your mind.  Like hypothermia (but far less serious of course) having friends looking out for you helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're suffering from dehydration or true exhaustion, these tips won't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T02:08:00.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2940" CreationDate="2011-02-20T03:39:13.737" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen some handlebar bags that have a slot for maps on the top. The map pocket is usually clear plastic designed to keep the map dry. (Hopefully this isn't what you meant by &quot;pannier-attached map things&quot; -- I have never heard of/seen those; maybe you were thinking handlebar bags?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of bags that have this (Google &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/#output=search&amp;amp;sclient=psy-ab&amp;amp;q=handlebar+bag+map+pocket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;handlebar bag map pocket&lt;/a&gt;&quot; if you want to check them out). Here is an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rqDp1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of bag with map pocket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2013-06-22T02:22:36.943" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T02:22:36.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2958" CreationDate="2011-02-20T03:52:59.037" Score="7" ViewCount="2239" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question drew my attention to pannier &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2940/map-during-touring/2955#2955&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I just thought that panniers are things that hung on bike. The Wikipedia definition with Google gives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A pannier is a basket, bag, box, or&#xA;  similar container, carried in pairs&#xA;  either slung over the back of a beast&#xA;  of burden, or attached to a bicycle or&#xA;  motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can I call every bag that hangs even a little on a bicycle a &lt;em&gt;pannier&lt;/em&gt; like a handle-bar bag? Or is it essential that it is in pairs? I have panniers-looking side bags but they are not really in pairs rather separated similar bags, I bought them separately. So what are really panniers? Do they need to be attached to one-another or can they be separated? What about if I lost one, is it still a pannier or is it a piece of pannier? When I have a small bag like triangular bag or something else hung from the bike, is it a pannier? Probably not, is the proper idea to think about panniers like a bags on a donkey i.e. rather large bags?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T16:37:05.437" Title="What does the term pannier really mean? Does how the bag is hung matter?" Tags="&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2956" CreationDate="2011-02-20T04:06:42.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally I think people use &quot;pannier&quot; to refer to just &lt;em&gt;one bag&lt;/em&gt; on a rack of the bike. It can be on either the rear or front rack. If there is a set of two or more bags, &lt;strong&gt;panniers&lt;/strong&gt; is used to refer to the whole set, but again, one bag on its own is just a &lt;strong&gt;pannier&lt;/strong&gt;, regardless of whether it's a part of a set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other types of bags (&lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; hung on racks) that I have never heard anyone refer to as panniers. These include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frame bag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQXlU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of frame bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;handlebar bag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HxGR3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of handlebar bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;saddle bag or seat post bag (or &quot;wedge&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N5oVH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;photo of saddle bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T04:06:42.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2956" CreationDate="2011-02-20T04:11:48.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that in English a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.ca/images?q=bicycle+pannier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;'pannier' usually refers to something hung next to the wheels&lt;/a&gt;, whereas a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.ca/images?q=bicycle+basket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;'basket' is hung on the front&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in another language i.e. French a '&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.fr/images?q=velo+panier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;panier&lt;/a&gt;' is rather a basket, or perhaps a rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-02-20T04:35:49.697" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T04:35:49.697" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2940" CreationDate="2011-02-20T04:15:53.300" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't address your question with regard to maps, but I've found it easier to work from turn-by-turn cue sheets instead. I almost always ride a predetermined route, even if it's just something quickly charted up pre ride. Luxury is of course having access to google maps and being able to print out directions. I print out (or write out, sometimes you have to fall back to the basics) the text list of turns with cumulative mileage (most important!) as a cue sheet, then just clip it to my shifter cables with 3 or so binder clips. You'd think the wind would be a problem but I've done it hundreds of miles and never had an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ux3TK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get lost, or the plan changes (it inevitably does) we'll stop and break out the map and come up with an updated plan and turn schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find this way much more enjoyable because you can relax between turns knowing when and where to look out for what's next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T03:11:37.037" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T03:11:37.037" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2956" CreationDate="2011-02-20T04:49:52.047" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In English, panniers originally referred to bags slung across the back of an animal (such as a horse), such that the weight hung down on either side of the animal. This keeps the weight lower so that the animal won't be as off-balance, and distributes the weight evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bicycle, the term is used for containers that resemble that, even if it's only on one side.  Specifically, &lt;em&gt;bags that hang on the side of a rack&lt;/em&gt;. It's also used for containers that aren't bags, such as buckets, baskets, or hard cases; though most often for bags. The term is used equally for bags on the side of a rear rack or front rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pannier could attach itself to the side of a rack (typically via hooks), or you could have a single unit where two side-bags are attached to each other and held on by the attachment between them sitting on top of the rack. The attachment could be as little as a strip of cloth, or as much as a whole third bag that fits on top of the rack. Even if it's one unit, something that hangs on both sides would be pluralized as &quot;panniers&quot; while a single bag on one side is singular (&quot;pannier&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a bag is designed to fit on &lt;em&gt;top&lt;/em&gt; of a rack without hanging down the sides, it's not a pannier. Typically those would be called a &quot;rack bag&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bag that hangs from the saddle (seat) is a &quot;saddlebag&quot;. However, on a motorcycle, saddlebag and pannier both refer to containers hanging on the sides (the saddle on a motorcycle generally extends to the back). On motorcycles, &quot;saddlebags&quot; are commonly hard cases that wouldn't otherwise be called &quot;bags&quot;. The huge difference between a motorcycle's &quot;saddlebags&quot; and a bicycle's &quot;saddlebag&quot; sometimes causes people to incorrectly refer to bicycle panniers as &quot;saddlebags&quot; even though they aren't attached to or even near the saddle (seat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T04:49:52.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2951" CreationDate="2011-02-20T09:31:04.380" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;With rim brakes they give a slight safety benefit, making it less likely that a slightly loose QR will let the wheel fall out. But the main cause of the front wheel falling out is people putting the wheel in and forgetting to do up the quick release. Lawyer lips don't do anything to stop that happening (since to get the wheel in you have to loosen enough...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With disk brakes it's a completely different story. For historical reasons the caliper is on the wrong side of the fork, meaning the braking force pushes the axle out of the dropouts. It's unlikely you can do up a quick release firmly enough to stop the wheel pulling out of the dropouts in an emergency stop, so you must leave the lips in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a bike without lawyer lips but with disk brakes. The one time I did an emergency stop the front wheel bounced across the road and I hit it. Not fun at all, but fortunately(?) easily reproducible. Repeatedly, until the quick release skewer broke from over-tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T09:31:04.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2950" CreationDate="2011-02-20T09:46:54.090" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take almost the opposite approach - I eat almost all natural foods when I'm touring. I prefer rice + milk + sultanas + sugar for breakfast so I boil the rice the night before and it slow cooks overnight. The rest of the day I eat fresh fruit and veges when I can, bread and cheese or peanut better etc. I eat a bit of road kill when I can, and buy hot chips if they smell good enough. For dinner I eat a lot of pasta and noodles, usually the fast cook sort (not very natural :) I do self-contained touring, and generally free camp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My diet is determined largely by listening to my body, which amounts to &quot;eat what I feel like eating&quot; or &quot;eat what smells good&quot;. And lots of carbs. In hot weather this can mean hot, salty chips every day for the salt and calories, but also usually means a lot of whatever seasonal fruit and vegetables are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a recumbent when touring, and the slightly odd bike generates a lot of interest from people when I stop, so I get invited to eat with locals a lot as well. So often my evening meal is whatever I'm offered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I can't get fresh fruit and veges I eat a fair bit of dried fruit, especially dried bananas. Also dried vegetables. In the dry parts of Australia food is trucked in, and is generally service station/roadhouse/corner shop type food (and expensive too). The local water is often heavily mineralized, usually to the point where long term consumption is not recommended. So I get dried camping type food posted to me and buy as much bottled water as I feel I can afford (usually 20%-40% of my consumption).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T09:46:54.090" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-20T16:18:58.470" Score="5" ViewCount="1396" Body="&lt;p&gt;My LBS has told me they're unable to order &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/tools/chain-lubricant/product/frame-saver-10220&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Framesaver&lt;/a&gt; due to difficulties shipping aerosol canisters across the border. Are there any reputable retailers (either online or in the Greater Toronto Area) who've dealt with the hassle and have Framesaver available for sale within Canada?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T18:40:17.813" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T05:59:42.010" Title="Where can I buy Framesaver in Canada?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;rust&gt;&lt;canada&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2977" CreationDate="2011-02-20T19:06:02.353" Score="7" ViewCount="1772" Body="&lt;p&gt;This reply about belt-driven belt got my interest &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2064/bicycle-innovations-in-the-pipeline/2070#2070&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. It does not need lubrication at all according to the replier. What are other properties with belt-drive chain? Where does the idea come from? Are belt-driven chains used in cars or some machines? Are they durable? Do they last in all kind of weather? Like in freezing winter to sunny summer? Do they stretch like steel chains? When should you change them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T15:03:51.140" Title="Properties with Belt-driven Chains?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;belt-drive&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2970" CreationDate="2011-02-20T19:28:10.283" Score="0" ViewCount="776" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I copy-catted the question from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2875/items-required-to-manufacture-a-diy-bike/2910#2910&quot;&gt;moz&lt;/a&gt; here because he did not ask it himself.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to keep my bike design as simple as possible so I need to learn from mistakes in the past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the simplest rideable bikes? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did they work and what were their limitations? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example things simplified bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;air tires (no big wheelers anymore) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inner hubs (ambiguous: common belief is that it is harder to fix inner hubs, despite I have fixed them with no expertise what-so-ever, but its outside design is simple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;belt-driven chains (no lubrication) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, tell for which kind of purpose your bike is meant. I am particularly interested in recumbent bikes, i.e. comfort bikes and no racer bikes for long journeys, but feel free to suggest anything. Keep it simple and stupid! Explain why it is simple to some earlier model. Any simple bike out there or some historical bike from which we may learn something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T18:41:44.723" Title="What are simplest rideable bikes over history?" Tags="&lt;design&gt;&lt;history&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2965" CreationDate="2011-02-20T20:23:02.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never ridden a belt-drive bicycle, but I've ridden both belt and chain drive motorcycles and the belt drive is considerably smoother and quieter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the features being used to tout belt-driven bikes is that they don't require lubing, so that would be a plus. In addition to not needing to take the time to properly lube your drive-train, the lack of lube would mean less attractant for dirt/dust etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each manufacturer would probably have their own recommendations about operating temperature range and how often to change them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T20:23:02.403" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-20T21:13:31.520" Score="11" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2950/food-during-touring&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; raised a new sub-problem of which I was not at all aware of.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carry a heater to boil the water before I drink it but I am unsure whether it removes all dirt from water. Please, note the water may contain some mineralization (noted in the earlier question). There are different types of tools to test for different mineralization such as arsenic but probably many others. Please, teach/show how to handle water during touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Helper questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you maintain your water? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to operate with water bags?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to maintain water-containers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water tests during travelling? - a general question &lt;a href=&quot;https://travel.stackexchange.com/questions/786/water-tests-during-travelling&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you carry the water suitable for touring? Answered &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2986/carrying-water-during-touring&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:52:14.167" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T19:20:53.587" Title="Water safety during touring?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2967" CreationDate="2011-02-20T21:48:50.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanical Simplicity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dandy_horse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hobby-horse&lt;/a&gt; is as mechanically simple as it gets. Two wheels and a seat, even steering is optional. Many of them did not even have padded wheels, &quot;solid&quot; meant iron. Today these are built for children who are learning to ride (the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.likeabike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like-a-bike&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is one such product).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penny-farthing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ordinary (or penny-farthing)&lt;/a&gt; There's only five axles and the whole thing can be made using basic tools. These are still made today but primarily as replicas of historical bikes. There are national and world championship competitions. The modern &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tall_bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tall bike&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is in many ways similar but often has gears, brake and so on so lacks the simplicity of the ordinary bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a modern bicycle, a fixed gear bike is as simple as you're likely to want to ride. Chain drive, but no freewheel and brakes are not strictly necessary (but may be required by law). Generally they have ball bearings rather than &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plain_bearing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plain bearings&lt;/a&gt;, but they're quite simple to assemble or fix compared to other modern bikes. However, since a freewheel is a single part as far as most bike machanics are concerned a BMX or trials bike is effectively as simple to deal with. Especially &quot;street BMX&quot; bikes that often have back-pedal hub brakes. The 406 wheels and lack of rim brakes mean that the wheels are very strong and don't have to be especially true. Most fixed gear bikes have limited clearance around the wheels so they have to be quite close to true or they hit the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you add gears, hub gears are simple for the owner both in operation and maintenance. With wide, straight chain, full chain case and commonly also hub brakes mean there's little maintenance to do. Hub gears have a single shifter and the gears are &quot;in order&quot;, meaning that shifting up always produces a higher gear, and it's always the next higher gear. This makes the bike very &lt;em&gt;simple to operate&lt;/em&gt;. With a derailleur system there's usually two gear levers (for the front and rear derailleurs), and the shift pattern to go from lowest to highest gear is non-trivial (and varies between bikes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, hub brakes usually require less maintenance and are more effective than rim brakes. They're also heavier and more expensive rhan rim brakes, but if your criteria is simple to operate, hub brakes win. Maintenance is generally infrequent, with cable operated disks requiring most frequent maintenance and some hub and hydraulic disk brakes being almost maintenance free (lasting decades of use in gentle city riding). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not unheard of to fish a 50 year old bike out of a garage (or canal) and find that the hub brakes and gears still work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-02-20T23:37:03.923" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T23:37:03.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2965" CreationDate="2011-02-20T22:05:55.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Belt drives can't be used with derailleurs so the bike will be single speed or need an (expensive) hub gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were some cars that used a belt drive, usually with a v-belt and split pulleys to give a continuously variable gear - haven't heard of any bike doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2011-02-20T23:16:52.957" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T23:16:52.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-20T22:31:43.383" Score="4" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 2007, I bought my first bike: a Bianchi Boardwalk 2006.  It was a great bike, but I didn't treat it well and it now needs about $300 worth of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking that maybe I'd like to take this time to upgrade.  Ideally, I'd like a bike that (1) requires less maintenance and (2) won't rip my jeans; I think I want an &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1728#1728&quot;&gt;internally geared&lt;/a&gt; rear hub.  My understanding is that this requires horizontal drop outs, which the boardwalk does not have.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I loved how the Boardwalk rode (it was FAST) and it's geometry is up on Bianchi's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bianchiusa.com/archives/2006/cross-terrain/boardwalk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; - I have the 23&quot; model.  Is there any way for me to search premade bikes or just frames for ones with similar geometry?  Alternatively, is there any way to give my Boardwalk frame horizontal drop outs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T23:49:00.867" Title="How to find a frame given a geometry" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2964" CreationDate="2011-02-20T23:27:50.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No idea how to get Framesaver into Canada, but there are some alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A classic alternative to Framesaver is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Linseed oil&lt;/a&gt;. It's a liquid oil that slowly hardens. Used to be common as a wood varnish, so you might find it at a hardware or furniture store. If you go this route, be careful with rags, since a rag soaked in linseed oil can spontaneously combust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/bicycles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boeshield T-9&lt;/a&gt; or another paraffin based chain lube should work reasonably well. It's basically waxy stuff in a solvent that leaves the waxy stuff behind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1097/chrisw&quot;&gt;ChrisW&lt;/a&gt; suggests: check out an auto store. They may have a rust-inhibiting product that would work, too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T03:15:40.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2972" CreationDate="2011-02-21T00:03:24.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting a framebuilder to put horizontal dropouts on the Boardwalk looks quite possible from a quick glance at the picture. On the other hand, it looks as though it has fairly conventional geometry so you may find that a current bike with hub gears off the shelf works for you. It's likely to cost more than $300 to get new dropouts fitted since you'll also be stripping and repainting the frame. Since it's alumnium and most framebuilders work with steel you might struggle to find someone who can do the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to fit a hub and use a derailleur or chain tensioner to take up the small amount of extra chain you'll need. chain tensioners are common on singlespeed bikes for the same reason as you need one (and singlespeed conversions are very common). This will be the cheapest way to fit hub gears to your current bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T00:03:24.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2969" CreationDate="2011-02-21T00:04:59.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than boiling water get one of these filters from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.katadyn.com/caen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;katadyn&lt;/a&gt;  or &lt;a href=&quot;http://cascadedesigns.com/msr/water-treatment-and-hydration/category&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MSR&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/030rE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't remove all chemical poisons - but neither will boiling - it can remove some depending on how soluble they are. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://equipped.org/watrfood.htm#WaterFilters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Water filter use&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And unless you are drinking from chemical waste spills for weeks on end I wouldn't worry, if one area is high in arsenic the next won't be !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T22:23:33.160" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T22:23:33.160" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2939" CreationDate="2011-02-21T00:18:07.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need clothes that dry quickly - stuff you can put on wet and will dry in minutes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fortunately this is the same stuff that wicks moisture away and still keeps you warm when it's wet.  So polypro (underarmour/coolmax) t-shirts and underwear, microfleece mid layers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For washing - this stuff (called &quot;Campsuds&quot;) does laundry, hair, body, bikes everything, biodegradable non-toxic etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d5KWH.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T03:48:10.477" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T03:48:10.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2965" CreationDate="2011-02-21T00:18:44.247" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference with belt drive is that you can't break the belt, so you need a specially built frame that allows the belt to be fitted. On a chain-driven bike the chain usually runs though the frame between the seatstay and chainstay. This makes retrofitting a belt drive impossible on most bikes. Similarly, you're limited to the belt lengths available from the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen bikes with exposed belt drives but that does not seem like a good idea to me. Once you get mud or dust in there it's going to grind away the belt and pulleys, and parts are usually expensive (because they're uncommon). I don't know much about how they wear as I've never seen one that's had much use (which in itself should tell you something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the belt is fully enclosed it becomes just like an enclosed chain drive, except that it can't be serviced by bike shops. I suspect this is the real deal-breaker for most people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belts usually have higher losses than chain drives, making them unattractive for high-performance bikes and hindering their adoption in other bikes (because much of the profit for bike shops is in the more expensive bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T00:18:44.247" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2927" CreationDate="2011-02-21T03:04:09.053" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Park Tools has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/handlebar-tape-installation-drop-bars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;great description with a video, pictures, and instructions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expanding the Park link a little:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - you can start at either end, conventionally start at the bar ends because that way the overlap on the wraps has the lower side out so smooths as you slide your hands down the bar. That way it lasts longer and looks nicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - wrap up the outside on both sides. So the answer to your question is &quot;yes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 - this is where most of the variation in styling occurs. Tape that is more flexible or stretchy can have fewer wraps around the brake levers, although you can often do a single skip around the back of the lever even with quite unyeilding tape. I prefer to go once around the levers to get 3 strips of tape behind them. Experiment to see what works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're wrapping bars for the first time I suggest buying the cheapest tape you can find to experiment with, as well as the stuff you actually want. It's something that's not too hard but you will probably make mistakes the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="24327" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T19:09:12.993" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T19:09:12.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2965" CreationDate="2011-02-21T11:32:48.833" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are other properties with&#xA;  belt-drive chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main differences compared to using a chain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;belt does not need lubrication (less maintenance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as it is not lubricated, it attracts less dirt, and is cleaner, even if it is exposed (less danger to mess up clothing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it has more friction/power loss than a chain (but less than a badly-oiled chain)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it stretches more than a chain under heavy load (so less suitable for high-performance cycling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it needs a frame that can be split, because the belt cannot be split&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it cannot be combined with a derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where is the idea got?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is very old. It was used in the first steam engines (and probable even earlier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are belt-driven chains used in cars or some machines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, they are quite common. In particular, the alternator in a car is usually driven by a belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are they durable? Do they last in all kind of weather? Like in freezing winter to sunny summer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know specific numbers, but they should last at least as long as a chain, and modern belts should have no trouble with high/low temperatures (they are used in cars as well, after all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do they stretch like steel chains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, steel chains don't strecht (noticeably), the just get longer from wear. Belts on the other hand do strech under load (see above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When should you change them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No idea, but they should last considerable longer than a chain (less wear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T11:32:48.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-02-21T12:06:19.433" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been on a lot of long exhausting rides while on longer cycling holidays. I've learned to always have three things with me on any long ride, especially when in areas where there are no (or limited) shops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something with a lot of slow sugars (i.e. energy bars with lots of grains, whole wheat bread, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something salty (chips, a salami and cheese sandwich, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lot of water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I hit the wall I have three options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feel nauseous? Start with the salty thing, force it down if you have to, take small sips of water in between bites, top up with the slow sugars, rest until you're no longer nauseous, keep up your slow water consumption.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headache? You didn't drink enough water. Headache even though you drank lots of water? Consume the salty thing (or add a bit of salt and a bit of sugar to your water bottle) sweating causes you to lose minerals which don't get replaced by water, and after a while your body just stops absorbing regular water without minerals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feel weak? Eat the slow sugars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a pinch I've used a peach with salt in place of the salty thing (sprinkle some salt on peach, take bite of peach, repeat until done with peach). I also try to have rehydration solution in one of my water bottles at all times. If I'm somewhere where I can't buy the fancy sports-drink rehydration powder stuff I just mix some salt and some sugar in my water instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="18479" LastEditDate="2018-05-28T20:15:46.740" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T20:15:46.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2933" CreationDate="2011-02-21T13:32:19.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair if these that I wear over a pair of wool socks.  They are great at keeping wind at bay which seems to be the biggest contributor to my toes being cold.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/Satellite/PROD_FSALSK?landingid=1208436871979A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GORE SOCKS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your shoes are pretty windproof but are still getting cold toes, make sure that your feet aren't too constricted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other possiblity is that cold is coming up through your cleat, so maybe a footbed liner can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T13:32:19.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2964" CreationDate="2011-02-21T15:28:53.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get it from Niagra Cycle Works via Amazon.com. Not quite the great TO area but not too far either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001447PEK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/T-9-Rust-Protectant-Ounce-Spray/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1298302015&amp;amp;sr=8-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T15:28:53.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2939" CreationDate="2011-02-21T19:57:10.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When packing for a tour, I'll often spend as much time deciding which clothing to pack as I will for all other packing combined. What clothing one wears on tour is a personal decision, based on the rider's preferences. Below, I've written what I wear, and why I prefer it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When riding&lt;/strong&gt;, I wear padded lycra cycling shorts with breathable t-shirts. I'll usually bring two or three pairs of shorts, two t-shirts, and three pairs of wool cycling socks. I'll also bring along a pair of tights to wear over the shorts in the morning, and a light cycling jacket. Even in the hottest part of the summer, it's quite cold in the morning where I live, so this is important. Lycra dries fast, and that's part of why I wear it, but my primary reason is that it's comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cleaning clothing:&lt;/strong&gt; Lycra washes easily and dries fairly quickly. I'll usually stop at a laundromat to do a load of laundry a few days into the tour; sometimes my host for the night may offer the use of a laundry machine and dryer. If I know I won't get a chance to do this, I'll wash my shorts and socks by hand in a public restroom. (Some cycling shorts specify washing by hand or on a gentle cycle anyway.) I don't worry about wearing a dirty shirt or tights, but I don't want to re-wear sweaty shorts or socks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you camp in areas that don't have public restrooms, you'll want to get camping soap that won't harm the environment, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2939/clothes-during-touring/2976#2976&quot;&gt;like mgb wrote&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drying:&lt;/strong&gt; I'll bring a clothesline along with me and string it between two trees, but when it's humid out, that won't always work. In that case, I'll hand my clothing to the outside of the camping roll that's strapped to my rear rack, tucking the clothing under the bungee cords. An hour or two in the wind will dry just any cycling clothing. If I have a trailer with me, so much the better; there's more space to act as a drying rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;cold weather or rain&lt;/strong&gt;, I'll have more clothing. Some of these can be washed the same way as lycra, such as the balaclava and glove liners, but some cannot: rain pants, a rain jacket, heavier cycling pants, winter gloves, and so on. Any of these heavier items that need to be washed can wait until I get to a laundry machine. (You don't sweat much in the winter in any case.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also pack &lt;strong&gt;off-bike clothing&lt;/strong&gt;.  I tend to favor cotton pants or shorts, black tee-shirts, and sweat socks. These roll up tightly, and are comfortable. I'll also bring something to sleep with, although clean bicycle tights and cycling jackets are good extra layers for cold nights in a tent. Cleaning cotton, which is unsuitable for riding in any case, will wait until I get to a laundromat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my panniers, I'll segregate dirty clothing from clean by bringing along a few plastic grocery bags and sealing the dirty clothes in them as best as I can. While doing laundry, I'll sometimes let my panniers air out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, a little time spent planning will help keep your panniers light, and an hour or two spend every other day will keep your critical clothing clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T19:57:10.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3078" CreationDate="2011-02-21T20:15:09.787" Score="8" ViewCount="3755" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The earlier question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2969/water-safety-during-touring&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, raised this question about carrying water.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you carry water during touring? Do yo carry it in panniers, water-bags, bottles, containers or elsewhere? How does your carrier change in different location. You can see from earlier question that it is not trivial to get even clean water. So it sounds logical to carry a lot of water when you are in locations where water can be tight. In such case, when you get the water perhaps bottled water. How do you allocate it? Have you never thrown something away because you needed more room for water? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T22:04:03.517" Title="Carrying water during touring?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-21T20:51:06.977" Score="1" ViewCount="1400" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Inferio! No-one can understand this bloated question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2913/cheap-prototypes-for-bicycles&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, now more focussed.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you are doing a new bike. How can you be certain that some critical point won't get too much force and the right parts gets the force that is then again supported by the ground? Of course, everyone here has played the wonderful bridge construction -game and knows that weight-distribution requires proper analytical reasoning. I think there are some multi-variance-something-methods to investigate it. Anyway, just skim-read a book and they give many different formulae (apparently numerical approximations) for different kinds of attachments (or welding points or anything you call it). So I don't try to underestimate the hardness to design proper weight distribution. Any design hints welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T10:37:07.670" Title="FEM: How to Design weight-distribution in bike prototypes?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;design&gt;&lt;prototype&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2990" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-02-21T21:23:11.300" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T21:23:11.300" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T21:23:11.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2991" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-02-21T21:23:11.300" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T21:23:11.300" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T21:23:11.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2992" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-21T21:33:03.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical touring questions might cover:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to carry everything&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to carry less stuff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On-road maintenance with no shop access&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;food/water for a long ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;picking a bike or components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;figuring out routes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Issues surrounding very long rides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/randonneuring&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'randonneuring'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;randonneuring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T22:27:18.310" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T22:27:18.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2993" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-21T21:33:03.900" Score="0" Body="Touring usually means very long multi-day (or multi-week) rides carrying a lot of gear (camping, cooking, clothes, etc) on the bike. Can also apply to unloaded/creditcard touring involving using hotels/motels instead of camping." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T22:27:18.340" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T22:27:18.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2913" CreationDate="2011-02-21T21:47:38.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Echoing ChrisW: &lt;em&gt;What actual problem are you trying to solve, or what experiment are you trying to perform, what question are you trying to answer, by making a prototype?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your list of goals suggests that you're more interested in attaching computers to the bike than riding it, so it might be better to start with a picture of a bicycle, put the computers in place, then add whatever hardware you need to activate the sensors. That way you can get the computer hardware and software sorted out before you start building the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to bicycle prototypes, models are rarely used except for areodynamic modelling simply because the cost of a complete bicycle is so low. The cost of a prototype is mostly labour, and that cost isn't affected by the scale (within reason, a 1:1000 or 10:1 model of a bicycle is going to cost a lot more). Most of your prototpre requirements can be addressed by bolting cheap bike parts together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to buy welding or brazing gear I suggest using straps wrapped around the frame tubes, probably metal &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tradenote.net/keyword/Clamps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hose clamps&lt;/a&gt; and flattened tube ends bolted together. This will leave you a lot of slop compared to a welded joint but they are cheap to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to build a bike that can be ridden any distance you will have to buy something to make proper joints with. Composites are more expensive overall but you can pay as you go - only buy enough epoxy for the current project. Using twine rather than synthetic fibre will be cheaper but somewhat less robust. Oxy-acetelene gives you the option of welding or brazing (or soldering), but makes working with aluminium difficult and realistically limits you to steel. Electric welding is more flexible but the equipment is more expensive. Stick welding is possible but very difficult on the thin wall tubes that bicycles typically use. GTAW/TIG welding is most flixble but also requires the most skill. MMAW/MIG welding uses cheaper equipment (at the low end) and you only need one hand to weld, but switching between materials/changing electrodes is tedious. Cheap MIG gear will not do nice-looking welds, but operating the expensive gear is a highly skilled task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T21:47:38.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2988" CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:58:29.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd guess that a bike is more difficult than a bridge because, with a bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The transient ('shock') forces are relatively larger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The transient ('shock') forces are more difficult to predict.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some design hints might include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over-engineer it (make it stronger than necessary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trial and error (fix it if it breaks) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's better to fail slowly/gracefully than catastrophically/dangerously (e.g. better to blow a tire or break a spoke than to collapse a wheel).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T23:58:29.400" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-21T23:58:29.400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:01:07.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water is actually extremely dense, and heavier than people think; it can be difficult to carry. My solution is to carry water in four standard cycling water bottles. In addition to the two bottle cages on my touring bike's frame, I also purchased two plastic water bottle cages that fit on my front panniers: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/4680464149/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9F2ly.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can carry bottles of water in your panniers as well, they're just a little harder to get to; you also will want to be extra-careful that they don't leak. I also suggest carrying them low down in the bags (along with anything else you have that is heavy). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To carry even more water, you can purchase camping water bags; they're essentially flexible plastic bags that hold water, available in any camping supply store. However, as water is heavy and it sloshes around, it can be difficult to haul more than a couple of gallons. (I get by on a gallon and a half (about 6 liters) for a day of touring.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-28T19:48:01.670" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T19:48:01.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2988" CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:45:46.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you mean by weight distribution? Most of the mass is the rider, and the rider moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycle construction is very experimental. Analysing dynamic forces is complex, partly because most of the mass is only loosely coupled to the bike. With most mechanical structures the loads are more predictable, for a bicycle you only have to look at flatland bmx riding to see what a bicycle has to handle. A simple case to think about is the rider leaning into a corner. The forces are not vertical with respect to the bicycle, but at an angle. So you have side loads on the wheels and frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual approach for commercial bikes is to overengineer and test. Manufacturers of racing bikes sponsor riders partly to have crash test dummies to ride experimental bikes. They keep making them lighter until something breaks, then add a bit back. Or not, they might just choose lighter riders or replace the frames more often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For homebuilders you can deliberately build light and see what happens (as I did with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/long-2/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;One Less Ute&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simulating the loads in software will be complex and I think you'll end up trimming your Monte Carlo parameters to the point where you're not getting a very representative sample (or you're buying a lot of supercomputer time). The extremes that I have done on a rigid diamond frame bike include: dropping ~3m onto a gravel road at ~40kph horizontal speed; riding down a twisty gravel road (~10cm high to low points) at 60kph with 15kg on the front panniers and 30kg on the back; riding 450km of sealed road with 20kg front, 40kg rear, 20kg backpack. I weighed about 80kg when I did those, the bike weighed less than 20kg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My approach is to assume that the entire weight of the bike + load can be applied to one wheel with the bike anywhere from horizontal to vertical. Then allow for some bouncing. I try to get roughly 60% of the weight on the rear wheel when the ride is seated and there's no extra luggage for normal road use. Load bikes don't obey those guidelines at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T02:45:24.090" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T02:45:24.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3008" CreationDate="2011-02-22T01:31:56.533" Score="9" ViewCount="9695" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I get &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2767/what-bikeequipment-for-a-long-daily-urban-commute&quot;&gt;this commuter bike&lt;/a&gt;, should it have &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory/576#576&quot;&gt;a kick-stand&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One LBS said &quot;no&quot;: they explained that stands are difficult to attach, weigh a bit, don't stay on well, and/or scratch the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had a bike without a stand. A lot of my parking will be locking to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toronto.ca/bug/combat_theft.htm#post_rings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post-and-ring device like this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike doesn't have a kick-stand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you park it without one? Can you just lean your bike up against whatever you're locking it to? If so, doesn't it roll and fall over easily? Do you only/mostly park it in the kind of rack where you push a wheel into a vertical slot which holds it upright?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T19:17:55.153" Title="Kick-stand on a commuter bike?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;kickstand&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2011-02-22T01:48:49.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had a kickstand. My load bikes have decent two-legged stands but that's a different thing. I agree with your LBS about attaching them, but there are better stands that cost more and work slightly better. They still don't work very well, often even the best kickstand will let the bike fall over at one extreme of the steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lock my bike to something like the post-and-ring things you have. Or a sign pole, or a railing, or whatever else is handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since locking securely means either locking the frame to something solid, or locking a wheel to the frame, rolling around is not an issue. The only problem I see regularly is people who lock their bike to a pole without locking a wheel, which has two outcomes: the bike rolls round and falls over; the wheel(s) are stolen. Here we have a common pattern there a wheel is stolen, later that day the other wheel is stolen, that night the bike is stripped to the frame (sometimes the forks are taken too). Look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/937/tips-for-locking-your-bike-in-public-areas&quot;&gt;tips for locking your bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T01:48:49.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2889" CreationDate="2011-02-22T02:05:30.927" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Strength at high speed?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I have ridden my road frame for 2 years now, and have many miles on it. One of my favorite rides takes me to a hilly section where I have a long sweeping downhill. On a good day, I can reach 70 km/hour. At the bottom is a bit of a tight bend where lateral forces are a plenty. The joints and the bamboo are holding up better than I expected. I love it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Durability in the wet?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; The natural characteristics of the bamboo are phenomenal, including the water resistance of the exterior skin. As long as you seal it well so moisture cannot get inside (particularly where the skin is not present, like cuts and nicks in the bamboo or where the shoots come out of the sides at the nodes) you have nothing to worry about. I have been caught in some pretty horrendous monsoon downpours here in Thailand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Weight&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - My 54cm road frame weighed in at 2.0 kgs. I built it light as I am a 150 lb rider. The last road frame (we call Thai Silk) that went out the door was a 58cm which weighed in at 5.4 kgs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Joints&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - The only place you really need steel is where the bearings or threads go, like head tube, bottom bracket, drop outs (even then, there are ways around this as well). The joints are plenty strong from carbon fiber or fiberglass. Thermal expansion factors are something we consider on our proprietary joint construction. Some builders have abandoned carbon fiber because it is too stable, others have abandoned hemp/sisal joints because the rigidity degrades too rapidly. If you choose to use steel joint lugs, you will need to overcome the challenge of a good bond between the bamboo and the steel. &#xA;Take a look at our site if interested &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.BambooBikeMaker.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BambooBikeMaker.com&lt;/a&gt; or email me at &lt;code&gt;philwebb333 [at] gmail [dot] com&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1133" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-02-22T17:55:02.067" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T17:55:02.067" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2011-02-22T03:26:06.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a kickstand on my &quot;light&quot; bike because I only ride it on roads (as opposed to trails) and I don't stop often, so it would be unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have one on one other bike I own because it refuses to cooperate with a cheap kickstand I have laying around-- it's just my &quot;beater&quot; bike, so I never bothered to get a properly-fitted one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My third bike does have a kickstand, but I don't use it a whole lot for locking up. Usually if I'm using the kind of rack with vertical slots, as you described, the kickstand won't touch the ground anyway, so it's kind of pointless there. (If I swing the frame sideways a bit, the kickstand will touch the ground, but that blocks half the rack.) At other racks, I usually use the kickstand, but I don't think it's always necessary. I have on many an occasion done without the kickstand due to crowded racks, tight spots, etc., and never come back to a tipped bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether the bike will stay upright depends on what kind of lock you use, how you use it, and what kind of rack(s) you have access to. If you only lock the frame, as moz mentioned, you might come back to find it tipped over, especially if you use a cable lock with a lot of slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have to imagine a u-lock through the rear wheel and frame and around a solid object would be hard to tip over either accidentally by passerby or by forces of nature. A cable lock through both wheels and the frame will be reasonably tip-proof if there's not much slack left in the cable (which is already the point anyway if you use a cable lock).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastEditorUserId="859" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T03:35:04.693" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T03:35:04.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2871" CreationDate="2011-02-22T03:31:09.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you'll find that removable dynamo lights are uncommon. I have not seen any that I can recall. I think it kind of defeats the purpose - dyno lights are always there and always work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can afford it IMO the Schmidt are the way to go. That's what I have. They fulfil the &quot;it just works&quot; requirement very well. Or at least, I haven't heard of any failures other than the &quot;I took it apart and now it doesn't go&quot; ones. I have not seen any Shimano or Sanyo lights that are 10 years/20Mm old, so I can't comment on their longevity, but I own a Schmidt that old and have seen others. It would be annoying to have a dyno hub fail and discover that I had to build a new wheel because I can't get parts for it (Shimano generally support their products for at most five years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flickering is addressed in two ways. One is lots of poles in the dynamo, so that even at low speeds the flickering is quite fast (technically an LED light can flicker at any speed you travel at). The other is a small capacitor in the light (or dynamo), so that the flickering is reduced at any speed. My Schmidt/B&amp;amp;M combo flickers at walking speed but once I'm moving I don't notice it. Even riding up hills. I have the standlight B&amp;amp;M, which may make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing is, don't get hung up about having a switch on the light(s). I don't think it's worth the hassle when the hub dyno drag is so small. I can't tell whether the light is on or not without looking, so when I got offered a better light cheap because the switch didn't work I took it. Now my lights are always on, and have been for over a year now. I still don't notice the extra drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW I think the ReelLights are a cool idea and great as extra lights, but I wouldn't have them as my only lights. They are too low and flash too slowly (and they're not bright enough). But then I have a superflash light on the back of my helmet as well as the dynamo lights on my commuter bike. And another battery light under my seat. And reflective tape on the frame and mudguards. So perhaps I'm not the best one to comment on that issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T03:31:09.320" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2011-02-22T04:24:48.593" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Self-Supported Touring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do most of the obvious things - I have a hammock, stove, basic first aid and bike repair equiment, carry food and water etc. As I often tour in places where there are no shops and that motor vehicles can't go this is necessary. I do get food parcels and other necessities posted to me and pick those up along my route. Having a cellphone/internet device makes it easier to arrange those drops. I use a digital camera rather than film, but that's become the norm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra or unusual things I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carry a small solar charger to recharge my phone and music player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eat roadkill from time to time (it's free &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; environmentally friendly). In NZ where it's legal I've also carried a slingshot to kill pest species and eat those too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a hammock rather than a tent because it's more flexible and less obvious, so it's easier to free camp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wear long sleeved shirts and pants rather than using sunscreen (personal preference, but also more sustainable/self-supporting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a liquid fuelled stove (in NZ) or fires (in Australia) rather than disposable gas cartridges to get more cooking per kg of carried weight. It often hard to find fuel for a cooking fire in NZ even when it's legal to use one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use public transport to get to and from tours. Or I just ride from where I live. Since I don't own a car that's easy for me, but I meet a lot of people whose &quot;cycle tour&quot; involves driving further than they ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shop mostly at supermarkets rather than tourist shops or corner shops to save money. In Australia especially it can be 1Mm or more between supermarkets. So I often carry food for a week or more between shopping expeditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is limited to countries where I already speak the language and have citizenship rights so I haven't faced any of those issues. But my tendency is to learn the language etc anyway, and since I'm a geek citizenship has not been especially hard to get. When you're young a &quot;working holiday&quot; visa is often easy enough to get and is worthwhile (since it lets you work legally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do cycle tour as a holiday, I regard it as a break from my normal life. I usually quit my job, stop renting somewhere to live, give away or sell my spare possessions, and go ride my bike for a few months. I've worked hard to get into a position where that's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't usually prepare physically for a tour, I just pile up the stuff I need and go. The first week is slow and hard, after that I get fitter and start riding further and faster. Usually I lose ~5%-10% of my bodyweight while touring and come back with more muscle as well. I suspect that means I'm fat and lazy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T04:40:23.980" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T04:40:23.980" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2011-02-22T04:26:55.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've watched Youtube videos of people breaking locks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cables: little bolt-cutters, concealable in jacket - about 2 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavy chains (as used for motorcycles): huge bolt-cutters with 4-foot long handes - up to 20 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;U-locks: either an angle-grinder (requires AC power) or a hydraulic car jack - about 4 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Executive summmary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a chain and/or U-lock, not cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't park a U lock next to an AC power outlet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep chains off the floor if possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;U-lock should hug the bike (so that they couldn't get a car jack in to prise apart the U lock without also destroying the bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T05:22:41.290" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T05:22:41.290" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-22T04:26:55.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-02-22T05:30:46.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the man with the hammer comes to visit, the only thing that works for me if I'm far from home is to stop and get off the bike, and get some food and water into my system. Resting while the calories and water work their way into my system helps a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my first really good bonk, I've never gone on a ride without taking at least one more GU than I think I'll need, and at least one more bottle of water or gatorade than I think I'll need. Extra weight be damned, I want to get home without wanting to die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, it's still easier to prevent bonking than to &quot;treat&quot; it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T05:30:46.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2914" CreationDate="2011-02-22T07:24:20.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a variety of touring styles to consider. There are people who plot every single metre of the journey and then there are people who just ride until they run out of time or money. I assume there are people who do whatever seems interesting on the day or who just obey whatever directions they get from whoever they meet. I've kinda done all of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In outback Australia direction-finding is often very easy: there's one road, you follow it. After a few hundred kilometres you might reach a T intersection and have to make a decision (at &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&amp;amp;q=newman&amp;amp;aq=&amp;amp;sll=-22.688553,116.336688&amp;amp;sspn=8.660141,13.392334&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;hq=&amp;amp;hnear=Newman+Western+Australia,+Australia&amp;amp;z=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Newman in WA&lt;/a&gt;, for instance). At the other extreme is navigating the old medieval parts of European cities where there's a maze of little corridor-sized streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preference is to plan a route based on roughly 50km a day through an area with a reasonable density of interesting things. So if I fly into &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?q=christchurch+nz&amp;amp;hq=&amp;amp;hnear=Christchurch,+Canterbury,+New+Zealand&amp;amp;z=9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Christchurch, NZ&lt;/a&gt; (don't do that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.christchurchquakemap.co.nz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;right now&lt;/a&gt;, ok) with a month to spend I might plan on riding down through Tekapo, out to the coast at Moeraki then back, for a nominal distance of about 1000km (30km/day). But when I actually ride I expect to find diversions - ride up to the Hermitage (Aoraki), through the Otago Rail Trail, and so on, probably riding more like 1500-2000km. My goal is that if I see a sign saying &quot;historic dam 5km&quot; I can ride up to see what that is. Or if someone says &quot;you have to see the eccentric monolith&quot; I can ride that way. It's a balance between planning and aimless wandering that suits me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.net.nz/canc2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CANC2&lt;/a&gt; we spent a couple of months planning out where we'd ride, how long it will take (roughly) for each stage and what food and so on we'd need posted to each drop point. We also started contacting communities along the way to set up media and school visits, but that's pretty much what you expect for a political ride. I've never done a solo or friend-group ride with that level of planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intense planning usually means looking not just at distance, but conditions - gradients, expected weather, road conditions and so on. Read tour reports from other people, look at nearby tourist attractions (for whatever type of tourist you are), work out where you want to stop each day. Often you start with the list of attractions and work from there. Friends of mine who've done that often start with an event (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paris%E2%80%93Brest%E2%80%93Paris&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PBP&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spezialradmesse.de/index.php?welcome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SPEZI&lt;/a&gt;) or some other reason to travel, then work out how long they can afford to tour for and buy air tickets accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T20:59:21.957" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T20:59:21.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2011-02-22T07:25:21.183" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether a bike has a kickstand is really a personal decision, but what the frame is made of is important. If you're not concerned with scratching the frame, and the frame is reasonable sturdy, then get yourself a kickstand; it'll make the bike more usable, and that's what's important. (I wouldn't attach a kickstand to, say, a carbon frame or a bike with a nice paint job I wanted to keep intact, but most of my bikes have them.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your LBS told you that &quot;kickstands don't stay on well&quot;, what that means to me is that they're either using bad kickstands, or they don't attach them well. However, there are some bikes that won't fit well with a kickstand (such as many folding bikes and racing bikes). However, a commuter bike that won't take a kickstand isn't nearly as useable as one that will. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have kickstands on my touring bikes, because one is a folding bike and the other is a diamond-frame touring bike. The latter will take a kickstand, but I removed it because a bike with a full touring load won't really stay put with a kickstand. I ended up getting a gadget called a click-stand that's essentially a tentpole with a thing on the end that hooks onto the frame, and also comes with a pair of brake bands (they do just what you'd think). Unfortunately, it takes a minute to deploy and isn't suitable for everyday use, but it perfect for touring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike without a kickstand can be parked by leaning it against a railing, or the end of a bike rack, or even lying it on its side on the ground if you're not locking it up. You can use cable locks combined with a sturdy lock such as a U-lock (or even a bungee cord combined with a lock) to keep the bike steady. My kickstand-less bikes have bungee cords that live on the rear racks for this purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a kickstand, do a little research and order one and attach it. If you're concerned about scratching the paint (you will), you can cut up an old tube and use it to protect the frame. Don't tighten it so much that you crush the frame, but check it every so often and make certain it's reasonably tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T07:25:21.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2939" CreationDate="2011-02-22T07:39:35.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I travel with at least three sets of clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;long sleeved riding clothes (for sunny days)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;short sleeved riding clothes (for overcast days)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;off the bike clothes - usually long pants and a collared shirt made of synthetic fabric that dries fast and doesn't need to be ironed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also carry a full covering of polypropylene and a few extra pairs of socks (which can also be used as mittens). In the snow I carry more over-clothing, but usually I just carry a cycling windbreaker and a polarfleece jumper. On the road I hand-wash every day and dry stuff overnight/in the afternoon after I finish riding. When it rains I get wet, usually stripping down to the windbreaker and polypro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carry lightweight off-bike footwear (jandals or crocs) and my only shoes are SPD ones that I wear while riding. I also have a sunhat with neck protection, and often my long-sleeved tops have hoods which work better than a sunhat while riding. I sometimes  use pins to attach my sleeves to my gloves to cover the gap at my wrists. Sun in the southern hemisphere is not kind to us light-skinned people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is riding clothes to suit the conditions, and off-bike clothes more suited to dress-up occasions where I can't really wear my cycling clothes. Everything needs to be fairly long-lasting, easy to dry and ideally not a colour that shows the dirt easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T07:39:35.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:29:19.023" Score="4" ViewCount="50854" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presently I'm able to ride my bike only in 5th and 6th gears. I cannot turn the shifter (it's too tight) to move the chain to lower gears. The low stop-screw is all right and it was working till yesterday and I did not make any adjustments to it.. But unable to use the shifter to do that as the cable is too tight to be pulled and I'm afraid of breaking the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas where the problem is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1134" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-23T16:53:33.537" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T10:51:43.263" Title="Unable to shift to lower gears; Shimano 6 speed SIS rear deraillers" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2799" CreationDate="2011-02-22T18:42:12.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try the Planet Bike Cascadia fenders.  When you install them, use fender washers (they have the same inner diameter as regular washers, but the outer diameter is bigger) for more support.  Space the fender so that it arcs over the wheel smoothly.  Forcing it up to the brake bridge on the seat stays or the BB bridge will create a stress riser and crack the fender a lot quicker.  For spacers, I've found the conical washers that V-brake pads use are the best, especially if the hole in the fender doesn't quite line up or the braze-on isn't perfectly straight.  They allow the bolt head to still fit evenly and flush, whereas a plain flat spacer stack has to sit unevenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety clips are nice, especially if you need to remove your front wheel to put the bike on a fork mount style roof rack.  Undo the clip and the fender can swing right out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't leave the fenders on year round, invest in a set of Sheldon Nuts.  They let you keep your brakes on when you install and remove your fenders.  This only really applies to bikes with road bike style calipers, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1137" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T18:42:12.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3010" CreationDate="2011-02-22T18:45:14.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the cables where they are stopped on the frame.  It sounds like a section of housing has either pulled out of the stop, or likely, the inner wires have split the cable ferrule and have slipped through the housing stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1137" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T18:45:14.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2951" CreationDate="2011-02-22T18:55:39.553" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the fork and the brake type used. With disc brakes, don't do it.  A disc can generate enough force to pull a wheel.  That's why most, if not all new MTB forks come with a burly, deep recess for the QR and the dropouts face forward. With the caliper on the back of the leg, it wants to drive the hub downward when the brakes are on.  If the dropout is closer to horizontal, then it pushes the hub axle into the fork instead of out of the dropout.  It's another reason why fork manufacturers are switching to thru axle forks.  Stiffer, yes, but also less chance of a lawsuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On road and cross forks, you are probably okay, especially if the &quot;lawyer lips&quot; are tiny. A couple of little bumps missing aren't going to do much.  If the fork has a recessed area for the QR molded into the dropout, then the effort needed to remove them is going to suck and you might affect the integrity of the dropout.  Of course, you will void the warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to think about.  Pro teams file them off and there are no reports of riders crashing because the wheel came out.  Of course, all of the equipment is top shelf stuff, maintained by some of the world's best mechanics, and gets replaced instantly if there is a hint of an issue.  Also, no Pro is on any fork older than a year, if that.  Most likely, the bike they race on is less than 6 months old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1137" LastEditorUserId="1464" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T19:10:14.477" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T19:10:14.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3010" CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:34:52.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sudden, dramatic changes like this suggest your bike recently experienced some trauma.  Did someone hit it with a car, or drop it? Check for scratches in the paint, wheel out of true, or misaligned handlebars. If so, go over your bike and get everything back in to order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more local fix, check if the shifter cable has slipped at the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your shifter cable is dead, it's relatively easy to replace. See the park tool website for good guides for this sort of thing. Start at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2011-02-23T01:22:40.157" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T01:22:40.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2544" CreationDate="2011-02-22T20:17:35.373" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer he was looking for was how they adjust as the pads get worn.  There is a check valve in the master cylinder, that will allow enough fluid from the reservoir when the lever is pulled.  If more fluid is needed because of pad degradation, it passes it into the active system.  Therefore with more fluid in the system, the piston is pushed out slightly more and the pad is the same distance from the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is why your res. needs to be topped off occasionally.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1138" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T20:17:35.373" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3018" CreationDate="2011-02-22T20:21:50.397" Score="12" ViewCount="22511" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a couple of months ago, I bought a new front wheel from the local bike shop. It's a 28 spoke wheel, rims are the DT Swiss RR465 and the hub is a 240s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put 500-600 km on it and noticed a rattle after a ride. After isolating it to the wheel, I noticed that 3 of the spokes were extremely loose with one of them basically hanging. (The nipple/screw thing appears to be inside the rim somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, I'm pretty sure I didn't hit anything and I'm not a terribly large guy. Are there things that can happen to new wheels/spokes, stretching or coming loose? Or is this a case of the LBS basically doing a crap job of building the wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm nearly positive I didn't do anything wrong here, but I'd like to know if there was any possible user error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T21:26:18.543" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T21:39:55.953" Title="Spokes loose on a new wheel, is this expected or a bad build?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="318" CreationDate="2011-02-22T20:28:02.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;... it depends on your activity. Long-distance can mean so many things such as random touring, rescue ops or challenging sport. I use standard first aid kits and mix them with some prescription drugs, such as stress-relieving hormones, and essential vitamins, such as B12-vitamin in tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Travel size&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My smallest first-aid kit is a small container that holds master link and some very useful medicine, very hard to notice (carrying always). You can hook it to anything like clothes or bags: small, unnoticeable and easy-to-carry. Cortisone and allergy stuff. You can get the containers &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/34158?r=36798618&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/27551?r=36798618&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I also use the red kit with bandages, scissors and an extra B12-vitamin tube to heal sore skin, cannot stress enough the importance of the last thing particularly if you are a male rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ub1aM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full size&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again my long-distance first-aid kit is much larger. Epinephrine, heat-blanket, resuscitation face shield, wound compress, plastic gloves, pain relieving gel, --. Some extra stuff are small saw chain, magnesium lighter, mosquito web and extra reflection vest. The picture contain some of my first aid kits. There are actually three kits in the same picture. The blue one is something I rarely need. The red one is something I carry very often, stuff at the bottom. The upper stuff is for very serious accidents, actually the yellow thing, epinephrine, at the bottom should be there. Other answers cover mostly my red first aid kit. I use the other kits with my other sport activities mostly dealing with water and camping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JP30L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alert about the prescription drugs mentioned&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not use the prescription drugs mentioned if you are not instructed to do so, particularly meaning the things such as epinephrine and cortisone. They do have side-effects so you need to know how to use them. I wanted to cover them here because I hope you won't get fooled by very expensively marketed placebo drugs such as &quot;snake tablets&quot; where the affecting agent is cortisone but usually in a very low amount as non-prescription drug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hormones work differently. Epinephrine, also known as adrenaline, lasts a short time, luckily, the cortisone lasts much longer. The effect of the former is fast and short-lived while the effect of the last is slow and long-lived. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-04-26T08:22:51.373" LastActivityDate="2011-04-26T08:22:51.373" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-20T21:52:41.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3016" CreationDate="2011-02-22T21:24:54.163" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from an impact, if it's been twisted in a bike stand wheel slot or something that could cause loose spokes. But usually loose spokes on a near-new wheel is just a bad build - if the spokes haven't been stress relieved properly they'll generally untwist as you ride it. And some wheelbuilders don't use a spoke tensiometer so regularly produce wheels that loosen over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, take it back to the shop and ask them to fix it. When you collect it after they fix it, pay very close attention the very first time you put weight on the wheel. The first revolution with load on it is crucial - if you hear pinging noises that is the spokes untwisting themselves as the tension goes off them (the ones at the bottom have less tension due to your weight pushing down, so there's less resistance to them untwisting). That means the wheel hadn't been stress relieved properly (because you just did it), so the spoke tension might not be correct any more (and the wheel might no longer be quite true). If the problem happens again take it to someone different - someone who can't fix a wheel they built is not worth your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In more detail: as a wheel is built or trued each spoke nipple is turned. Because there's friction between the nipple and the spoke, this tends to twist the spoke as well as tightening or loosening the thread. Stress relieving means (gently) applying force to the wheel to momentarily loosen each spoke, allowing them to spring back into the non-twisted position. This slightly reduces the spoke tension, and may even unscrew the spoke slightly out of the nipple causing further loss of tension. So after stress relieving a good wheelbuilder will recheck the spoke tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT by an anonymous user: Bladed spokes shouldn't twist because as they are built they are held with a tool which does not allow that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good wheel is not just true, it has even spoke tension. Over time uneven spoke tension tends to pull the wheel out of true, and the tight spokes are more likely to break in an impact, while the loose ones are more likely to break from metal fatigue. There's much discussion of this online, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0960723668&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jobst Brandt's &quot;The Bicycle Wheel&quot;&lt;/a&gt; is a deceptively concise but detailed explanation of a lot of the issues. It's worth buying a copy if you're interested in wheelbuilding (I don't get anything out of you buying the book, I just think it's an excellent book).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T21:39:55.953" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T21:39:55.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3016" CreationDate="2011-02-22T21:56:39.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar experience, a few months ago, with a Mavic Open Sport rim laced to a Shimano 105 hub.  It's a decent wheel and I am using it for my daily commute.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular wheel was built by a machine, though, and not a human.  Some wheels are built by people, some are built by robots.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Robots that build wheels, alas, have precious little experience riding bicycles--they really aren't thinking about what they're doing while they do it.  Sometimes their wheels just aren't as good as those built by a human wheel-builder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My LBS, where I bought the wheel, had nothing to do with this wheel's assembly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took the wheel in after about 300km of riding--with not just three loose spokes but two BROKEN spokes--they were very helpful and promptly replaced the spokes, retensioning the wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happened again 50km later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They replaced the wheel under the wheel manufactuer's WARRANTY. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T21:56:39.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2932" CreationDate="2011-02-22T22:11:07.330" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have asked two questions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is it feasible?&lt;/em&gt;  Yes.  Yes it is.  As has already been said, many people rebuild old frames like this with newer parts to create unique rides.  I don't know much about xUSSR bicycles, but I would guess that a lot of the parts are copies or near-copies of popular nonUSSR components.  To my eye, this looks like a knock-off of an early-80's Japanese road bike.  Maybe it is.  You'll find out when you start taking it apart and learning what the thread pitch is on the bottom bracket, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is it silly?&lt;/em&gt;  Also yes.  But does that matter?  I do a lot of things &lt;strong&gt;because&lt;/strong&gt; they are silly.  Rebuilding this bike can cost as much or as little as you like.  Chances are, you will &quot;loose&quot; money on it.  Did you pay anything for it to start with?  If you are considering doing this, is working on bikes a form of amusement for you?  (It is for me).  I would consider the cost of rebuilding this bike minus the value of the finished product to be the actual cost of a fine piece of entertainment.  And really, if you put some decent components on this bike (and it fits you), you might have a pretty sweet ride with a low &gt;&gt;BLING&amp;lt;&amp;lt; value.  Nobody's going to pick this bike to steal from a rack of thirty bicycles.  Just lock up next to the 2011 Cervelo--nobody's going to steal your bike, even if it's all Ultegra.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two answers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this frame were sitting in my garage and the geometry was such that I thought I would like riding it, I'd probably set it up as a fixie--run it around town for a while.  Later on, I might get a hair up my butt and put a derailleur and a new crankset on it--make it into a totally different bike.  It's a nearly blank canvas--have fun with it!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastEditorUserId="710" LastEditDate="2011-02-24T20:15:29.483" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T20:15:29.483" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2011-02-23T03:48:04.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SUMMARY&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;world-travelling bike suggestions &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2851/items-required-in-a-world-travelling-bike&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Private&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I. Clothes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tips are copycatted partially from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2939/clothes-during-touring&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wear long sleeved shirts and pants rather than using sunscreen (moz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;long sleeved riding clothes (for sunny days) (moz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;short sleeved riding clothes (for overcast days) (moz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-bike clothes: &lt;em&gt;&quot;usually long pants and a collared shirt made of synthetic fabric&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (moz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;II. Diet&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;control your vitamins and other important agents &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2950/food-during-touring&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maintain your medicine more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/318/what-are-important-items-for-a-touring-first-aid-kit/3017#3017&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/touring+water&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eat roadkill (moz) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eat pests, carry a slingshot (moz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;food parcels and other necessities from post-offices on the route (moz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shop mostly at supermarkets rather than tourist shops or corner shops to save money. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with low-supermarket-density &lt;em&gt;&quot;carry food for a week or more between shopping expeditions&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (moz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a liquid fuel rather than gas to get more cooking per kg (moz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;III. Electronics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carry a small solar charger to recharge my phone and music player (moz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;many batteries to phone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a cellphone/internet device makes it easier to arrange food drops (moz's idea)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a digital camera rather than film (moz's idea)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IV. Sleeping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;hammock rather than a tent -- less obvious -- easier to free camp&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (moz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;US MILITARY GoreTex BIVY Sleeping Bag&quot;&lt;/em&gt; -oversupply, cheap and good in rains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Social&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I. Transportation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;public transport to get to and from tours (moz)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;boxing a bike for an airplane, more &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/features/boxingbike.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shipping and bike cases &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/features/shippingbikecases.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;II. Bureaucrasy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mark locations of embassies to your map&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;passport and some cash (cash belt good in unknown places, cards may not work)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T05:14:24.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3010" CreationDate="2011-02-23T08:44:59.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things that could have gone wrong, some listed in previous answers. But one question to start with: What sort of shifter do you have? Shimano SIS is normally a &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/shimano-tourney-top-mount-6-speed-sis-thumb-shifters-2983.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thumbshifter&lt;/a&gt; but your description sounds as though it might be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.masherz.com/products/sram/xogripshifter.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;twist grip&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://static.letsbuyit.com/filer/images/fr/products/original/53/55/manette-vitesse-shimano-lx-rapide-fire-gauche-vtt-3-plateaux_6691577-6691577.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;push-button shifter&lt;/a&gt;. The problems for each can be slightly different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the following will be easier if you can lift the rear wheel off the ground so that you can spin the pedals and change gear while you experiment. Flipping the bike upside down so it's resting on the saddle and handlebars is sometimes the only way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have more than one gear working, the cable moves in the housing and is probably still intact. It may have frayed at a bend and be jammed up, with just enough movement to let you use two gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your bike has suffered an impact there may be obvious damage - a bent derailleur or broken shifter. This should be obvious.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if there is exposed shifter cable along the frame tubes, try pulling on that while gently spinning the pedals. Be careful because if the derailleur is bent this may cause it to move into the rear wheel, potentially damaging the wheel or derailleur. The gears should change. Work out which cable changes the rear derailleur and see if that gives you the full range of gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, it's probably the shifter, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not it's probably the derailleur. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the cable pulls right out of the bike, the cable is broken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Next, shift to the lowest gear you can, stop the rear wheel, and pull quite hard on the cable. With thumbshifters and twist grips, pull hard enough so that the gear lever moves to the highest gear. With rapidfire this won't happen so just pull as firmly as you think is reasonable. This does two things: if the cable is frayed, it will hopefully snap; if there's a sticky point somewhere in the system, it will probably give way. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is just the cable sticking in the housing and you don't want (or can't afford) to replace it, lubricating the cable will often solve the problem for a while at least. Most solvent-based chain lubes will do this just fine. Thereś a video at &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletutor.com/lube-brake-shift-cables/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bicycletutor.com/lube-brake-shift-cables/&lt;/a&gt; showing exactly how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bent derailleur can often be straightened, and with a 6 speed, if it looks straight it usually is. If you break it off while bending it back you haven't lost much, since the alternative is buying a new one. If it does bend back you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the derailleur just won't shift far enough any more, you'll need to check for more subtle problems. I'm not sure I can talk you though those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the thumbshifter is broken, you need to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a broken cable, the Park site @Jay Bazuzi linked to will show you how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy option is, of course, to take it to your &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/254#254&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt;. It should take the mechanic about 30 seconds to work out where the problem is, and they will either bend the derailleur back or replace the broken part. Unfortunately old, cheap gear systems are usually not repairable or worth repairing. The good news is that replacements are cheap. The bad news is that if you bought the bike second hand, new replacement parts will probably cost as much as the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T16:59:31.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2872" CreationDate="2011-02-23T16:25:09.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with something in the 26x2.25 range with the Double-Defense protection.  The 2.25 will give you nice volume to allow lower pressures while still being narrow enough to fit most frames (you might have to go narrower if your frame won't allow the 2.25).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double defense will give you the maximum protection, it weighs more, but I doubt you would notice unless racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are well versed in running tubeless, I would just stick with tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T16:25:09.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-23T17:26:23.693" Score="12" ViewCount="16195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/271#271&quot;&gt;fixie&lt;/a&gt; and I'm finding the rear wheel slips forward when riding (horizontal dropouts), causing the chain to loosen and thus a sub-optimal riding experience. It's not enough to be critical, just annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the bolts extremely tight on the frame with the chain taut, but it still slips a little when riding. I'm wondering if there are any tricks out there to solve this problem, or if I'm doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T16:54:55.443" Title="Fixie Rear Wheel Slippage Problem" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;chain-tug&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3028" CreationDate="2011-02-23T19:54:26.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some things to try:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure there isn't any grease on dropouts, axle, or bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the nuts for the rear axle have some bite to them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the rear hub has some bite to it where it touches the rear dropouts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More spinning the pedals, less hammering on them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Increase the size of the rear cog, and if you need to, the front chain ring.&lt;/em&gt; If you don't see how this can help, do a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_body_diagram&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;free body diagram&lt;/a&gt;, Hint, it's a lever problem.*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get chain tugs**&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;*:&lt;/strong&gt; Imagine your going up a really steep hill and your allmost at a stop. Regarless of anything else, the force appled to the bottom of your wheel must be constant to keep you from going in reverse. Now do a free body diagram on the wheel. In statics, we can sum the moments about any point, so choose the point which the chain connects with the rear cog. If A is the force applied to the wheel by the axel, G is the force applied to the wheel by the ground, r is the rear cog radius, D is the rear wheel diameter, Then summing the moments we have that A*r-G*(r+D) = 0, solving for A, we have that A = G + G*D/r, so as r is increased, the force at the axel is decreased. These results won't deviate much if a fully dynamics system were to be concidered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;**:&lt;/strong&gt; Make sure the chain tugs that you get are beafy, small spindaly chain tugs are only designed to take the forces needed to properly position the tire in the drop outs and will bend or break if they need to take pedeling loads due to slipage of the rear axel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="107" LastEditDate="2011-04-21T16:51:07.410" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T16:51:07.410" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2011-02-23T21:02:28.590" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really a comment to &quot;I want proper data&quot; but it was too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no data that a ski helmet is safe for biking simply because there is no data that a bike helmet is safe for biking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do have is an assumption that if a bike helmet contains a certain thickness of an impact absorbing material and a ski helmet contains an equal or greater thickness than it will have the same impact absorbing effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly if bike helmets are required to survive a certain drop test impact and ski helmets are tested to an equal or greater impact then they are presumed to be equally safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are extra features that may make a bike helmet more or less safe - it may be more vunerable to splitting along vents yet may have a smoother surface to reduce snag risk - some of these may be included in the testing, some may not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally remember that the 'testing' isn't anything like as scientific as you might think.  As described above it's normally just a anvil impact test.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Alternatively the standards may just specify a certain thickness of a material. Whenever you see a size quoted in a safety standard you have to be slightly suspicious of the science which discovered something had to be exactly 25.4mm thick to be safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T21:02:28.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3028" CreationDate="2011-02-23T21:15:20.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could look into getting some chain tugs which basically create a link between the axle and frame.  Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Tuggnut&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T21:15:20.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3028" CreationDate="2011-02-23T21:17:23.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First make sure there's no grease lubricating the nut/dropout area. Also make sure you're using washers, not just bare nuts (or nuts with washers built in). If slippage is still a problem you have three choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change your gearing so you're spinning rather than grinding (get a lower gear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tighten the nuts so you're denting the dropouts and things stay where they are (may not work, will damage the bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.extremesports.ltd.uk/bmx/bmx-chain-tensioners.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain tug&lt;/a&gt; The are devices that slip over the axle and brace against the end of the dropouts. They're more common on BMX's. I use those on my QR hub gear bicycles because you can't crank a QR up tight enough to hold. BMX ones will cost ~$20, fixie ones twice that but are much more fashionable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-02-24T21:07:50.100" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T21:07:50.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3028" CreationDate="2011-02-23T22:43:55.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also take a few links out of your chain and move your wheel all the way forward so it has nowhere left to slide forward. This is probably the least desirable solution, I highly suggest getting a chain tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="780" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T22:43:55.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="63" CreationDate="2011-02-23T23:07:45.457" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the skewers internal-cam or external-cam? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Internal-cam QR skewers have more mechanical advantage and allow for more clamping force. They're also less affected by dirt and crud. If you don't have internal-cam skewers, get some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html&quot;&gt;All you ever wanted to know about skewers, courtesy of Sheldon Brown.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T23:07:45.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3028" CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:32:42.970" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Search for &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3042#3042&quot;&gt;chain tugs&lt;/a&gt; rather than a chain tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DWxNA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain tug&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want something to hold the wheel in place rather than to push the chain up or pull it down (&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LXdiB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain tensioner&quot;&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a fixed gear, the latter will just break with the first back pressure on the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1142" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T10:32:00.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2903" CreationDate="2011-02-24T22:59:09.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Met today traveling heroes, they offered excellent way to clean dirty chains, cheaply and world-wide-reusable -- a really good touring tip coming! Things you need are mostly-grocery-store stuff, good because you don't need to carry extra stuff and you cannot be sure of bike shops in all of your destinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Items&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooking oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aluminium foil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some hand-bearable cleaner (found in any grocery store)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a cloth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a burner (tested below with normal stove)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a lubricant (the only exception, non-grocery store -stuff but you should have it anyway)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a brush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLLh9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Procedure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put chains to the mixture of oil, cleaner and hot water (it becomes very black)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brush the chains to remove the hardest black while in the mixture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wash the chains with water and bin the black stuff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a cloth to dry the chains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;warm the chains in the aluminium foil (to let the water in the internals to evaporate and it is easy carry chains in the foil)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lubricate the chains as you wish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can guarantee the tip works: the chains initially were in very thick black layer. I tried also Sheldon Brown's shake with coco bottle but it failed to remove the dirt, this gentler way with brush worked better. I tried the tip and my chains become like new, love it. So &lt;em&gt;No&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;pling-pling degreasers and cleaning containers&lt;/em&gt; during touring, no extra stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-25T01:24:56.637" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T01:24:56.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4950" CreationDate="2011-02-24T23:56:25.097" Score="5" ViewCount="1075" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a San Diego bike shop I saw a machine that is purported to take the tension out of a wheel while it's being built so that the tension won't be released when you first start to ride it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Description:&lt;/strong&gt; Machine is larger than a wheel and it has hydraulics that stress the wheel to relieve tension in spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to find out more about this machine, but I couldn't find the name of it in order to google it. What is this machine called? Links to manufacturers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="580" LastEditorUserId="859" LastEditDate="2011-02-25T19:38:36.760" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T14:55:09.867" Title="What are wheel tension relief machines called?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3038" CreationDate="2011-02-25T00:24:47.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bmd.nl/pages/products/wheel-stabiliser&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BMD &quot;wheel stabiliser&quot;&lt;/a&gt; accessory for their wheel building machine may be what you saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process is known as &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stress relieving&lt;/a&gt;&quot; but I can't find any reference to a dedicated machine either. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=enq&amp;amp;q=bicycle+wheel+building+machine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wheelbuilding machines&lt;/a&gt; are fairly easy to find once you get through the description pages (ex &lt;a href=&quot;http://newcanghai.en.ec21.com/Bicycle_Machines--2614383.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shenzhen New Canghai Machinery Co&lt;/a&gt;) but I couldn't find any stress releiving machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the BMD link in the search results for &quot;bicycle wheel building machine&quot; above by going to the manufacturer pages then looking for related machinery. On the BMD page I clicked their &quot;products&quot; link since it seemed likely that someone who makes the building  machine would also make the stress-relieving one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZLMFiw5OLA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZLMFiw5OLA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its done on a BMD machine. What you see are the mechanics of pushing on the spokes. This will set the spoke head in the flange of the hub and the nipples in the rim. Than the nipple keys that turn the nipples additionally unwind the spokes after truing. This will give a long live and stable wheel (Bob at BMD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-07-19T10:10:48.820" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T10:10:48.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3043" CreationDate="2011-02-25T04:01:44.237" Score="8" ViewCount="11591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a sturdy 2nd-hand-bought diamond-framed Crescent Sport bike which I like to use for random touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen a cyclocrosser using the kickstand to spin the pedals while cleaning and lubricating the chain. I'd like to be able to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a parent load a huge amount of groceries onto his touring bike, and want a kickstand that is stable enough to let me do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a middle-of-the-bike kickstand that doesn't let me do these things. What should I be looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;generally about kickstand &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory/576#576&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T22:21:16.440" Title="What kinds of kickstands are good for touring?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;kickstand&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3040" CreationDate="2011-02-25T06:56:30.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, just to be clear you're looking for a stand that will:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;support a full touring load (and survive)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;should be easy to extend/retract when your hands are full&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shouldn't get in the way of the pedals when you're cleaning the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been a long time since I used a kickstand, but I used to have a very heavy duty (and it was quite heavy, likely all steel, but cheap!) spring-loaded stand on my old touring bike.  It folded up on the left side and mounted across both rear stays just behind the bottom bracket, so would only have fit on a touring or hybrid frame (road frames often don't have enough clearance here because of the shorter wheelbase).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was easy to kick in/out with one foot and I bent it further out in order to support a full (4 panniers) touring load.  But at this angle it didn't work very well when the bike had no panniers (often fell right over).  Plus it would not have allowed the pedals to turn completely either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A double-legged stand might be closer to what you need but may be difficult to operate hands-free (you usually need to lift the bike a bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully others will chime in with something that meets all of your criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="157" LastEditDate="2011-02-25T07:08:46.567" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T07:08:46.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-02-25T09:53:27.030" Score="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Chain Tug&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AKA: Chain Tensioner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most bikes, the rear derailleur keeps the chain in tension. On &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/271#271&quot;&gt;fixed gear&lt;/a&gt;, single speed, or hub geared bikes, a chain tensioner is required to keep the chain in tension. Without this mechanism, the chain may fall off, or the rear wheel may pull forward while pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYQH6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain tug 1&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/amZgl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain tug 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some chain tugs are available with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3665#3665&quot;&gt;derailleur hangers&lt;/a&gt; to allow horizontal droput bikes to run derailleur gearing systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Erlcr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information about chain tugs is available in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4341/chain-loses-tension-on-straight-drop-out/4347#4347&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom Bracket mounted Chain Tensioners&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Typically seen on downhill styled mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sytwq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Bracket Chain Tensioner&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6m97m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Bracket Chain Tensioner on bicycle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1142" LastEditorUserId="38270" LastEditDate="2019-11-01T14:15:53.467" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T14:15:53.467" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-25T09:53:27.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3040" CreationDate="2011-02-25T20:38:07.047" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that a standers, one-legged kickstand doesn't work well with a full touring load (as you've found). I used a two-legged stand mounted to the frame just behind the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2759#2759&quot;&gt;bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt;, and while that worked well, it scraped up the frame where the kickstand was mounted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Touring without a kickstand was my solution for quite some time, until I found the click-stand. It's a kickstand substitute, essentially a modified tent pole with a cradle on the end. It's custom sized by the manufacturer so it'll fit with your bike. It's particularly well-suited to loaded touring bikes, and is much more stable than traditional kickstands. However, It takes a little time to deploy, and I'm not sure it'd work reliably with a load of loose items such as groceries unless they're very tightly packed. (More information, including pictures &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory/584#584&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, none of these will let you spin the pedals while the stand is down, unless you have very long chainstays; as far as I know, most bikes, except for cruisers, do not. A kickstand mounted to the rear triangle, just in front of the rear axle, &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; allow you to spin the wheels while the bike is parked, if you balance the bike on the front wheel and the rear, deployed kickstand. The Greenfield stabilizer kickstand has a good reputation in the touring community. We have one on one of our bikes, a Trek Navigator. It seems stable, but we haven't brought that bike on tour just yet. (With the Greenfield on the bike, I was able to balance the bike with panniers on it, so it looks good.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;: If your frame is particularly sturdy and you're not worried about scratching it, a two-legged kickstand on the chainstays behind the bottom bracket will work best. If this is not the case, a kickstand on the rear triangle would work well for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T20:38:07.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2011-02-25T22:26:56.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Help students to become aware of Misleading Marketing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be hard for students to understand the market, let alone marketing. Either they are buying new bikes or second-hand bikes, you could cover some historical and not-so-historical marketing dishonesty such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pepsi-coco-tire-sizing-marketing-dishonesty more &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;particularly with second-hand bikes warn them about dishonest Frame Sizing with older products more &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel the topic is relevant to young cyclists because some of them may need to deal with the problems in selecting a bike or tires. Some manufacturers may want to make their products more attractive than they really are, false understanding of their products may result in poor choices by students. The first commuting should be an informed choice, not to tarnish commuting community with false or misguided information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-02-25T22:43:01.660" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T22:43:01.660" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-25T22:26:56.177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2011-02-26T03:03:44.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Durable hammock&lt;/strong&gt; such as &lt;em&gt;Ticket To The Moon Hammock&lt;/em&gt;, green-color (you should select color fit to your terrain), very durable made with parachute canvas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought it when my landlord announced that there was 2 weeks break in the house and I had to leave, guess where I went? -&lt;em&gt;Of course, not to very expensive hotels/motels, but to random touring with my bike, a good hammock, some books, fishing line and hooks -- what else do you need to be happy?&lt;/em&gt; Well, moz summarizes it very well (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2915/what-does-self-support-mean-during-touring/3004#3004&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;use a hammock rather than a tent&#xA;  because it's more flexible and less&#xA;  obvious, so it's easier to free camp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T03:03:44.700" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-26T03:03:44.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3048" CreationDate="2011-02-26T04:22:37.703" Score="2" ViewCount="1730" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was very easy to find master links for 3/32inch (aka 9-speed chain) but I cannot find them for 1/8 inch (aka BMX chain). My chain is the Nexus CN-NX10. Cannot understand the odd observation that the master links are much more popular with the 9-speed category, I can find only one seller selling &lt;em&gt;&quot;BMX master links&quot;&lt;/em&gt; in eBay. I need the master links to easily clean my chains in a fixie that has a lot of dirt in the internal of the chain. Currently, I use a multitool to remove the pin very carefully so not to damage the chain but it is not that fast. So which master links would you recommend for the 1/8 inch chains? If it is a poor idea to use master links with BMX chain, please, explain &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;perhaps an alternative way to take chains off easily: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1726/how-can-i-tell-if-a-chain-has-a-master-link/1731#1731&quot;&gt;replacement pins&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T01:32:47.150" Title="Which master links for 1/8 inch aka BMX chains?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;master-link&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3040" CreationDate="2011-02-26T06:55:23.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For lifting the rear wheel of a loaded bike you may find that you need to have a stand that drops down behind the rear rack rather than under the bottom bracket, because so much weight is behind the stand. I've also found that narrow stands don't work well with loaded bikes because when the legs sink into the ground even a little the whole thing falls over. The heavier the bike the more likely this is to happen, and for a centre-mounted stand it has to be narrow to avoid your heel when you're pedalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link has a useful discussion of the commercial options for centre stands: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-401020.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-401020.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking at a longtail bike there are great stand options for those, and some of the ideas might carry across to a loaded touring stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look at the axle-mounted hoop stands you find on asian/european bikes. I'm really struggling to find them online because I don't have the right search terms, but then neither does &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.com/bicycle-Motorized-BIKE-GAS-ENGINE-Rear-kick-stand-/150513794016?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item230b523be0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this ebay seller&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-PRINCIP-No5-REAR-RACK-BUILT-STAND-/160551503244?pt=UK_Collectables_Bicycle_RL&amp;amp;hash=item25619d858c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. I have seen a modern version of that style of stand made in Germany, sorry I can't find a link. Since the bottom of the stand is behind the rear wheel when the stand is up, it's easy to make it as wide as your panniers and put decent side feet on it (the one I saw had ~50x30mm feet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted something like that I'd be looking at German websites or making my own (I have thought about it, but these days my load bikes don't need stands because they have more than two wheels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T06:55:23.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3046" CreationDate="2011-02-26T07:11:16.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest asking your local bike shop (LBS) because I've never seen a bike shop that doesn't have them, and they're only a couple of bucks. I found the three piece master links easily enough (on &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.com/KMC-Z-410h-bmxl-mtb-fix-bike-1-8-MASTER-LINK-silver-new-/260729157243&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eBay&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0013CVW56&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;). You might prefer the two piece style in silver (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000C14L6G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched for &quot;bicycle master link&quot; rather than BMX to get those results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For single speed chain I'd always use a master link, but with the narrower chains I often don't bother. But I rarely take the chain off the bike, preferring to run it through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441774255&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302693915&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain cleaner&lt;/a&gt; on the bike (but I don't get my chains very dirty). For a single-speed it's possible that a really dirty chain would be easier to clean off the bike, but I still try on the bike first because itś so much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-02-27T20:58:45.220" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T20:58:45.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3058" CreationDate="2011-02-26T16:53:04.800" Score="27" ViewCount="16199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2767&quot;&gt;buying a bike here&lt;/a&gt;, and someone asked on my behalf about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2795&quot;&gt;test-riding a bike before buying&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, &lt;strong&gt;what should I know, or should have known, about the sizing or 'geometry' of a bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reply to my question about buying, people talked about the wheel size etc.; but not about the frame size, or the fork angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the question about test-riding, people talked about aspects of the 'fit' which I think can be adjusted (i.e. the height and front/back position of the seat, and the height of the handle-bar) ... and which are documented elsewhere ... and which are therefore maybe superficial and less important for the purposes of this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, what about the geometry which can't be adjusted: the distance between the wheels, for example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bike which I've just bought, I've noticed for example (since buying it) that the front wheel is rather closer to my foot than I am used to; I expect that's just one example (of a geometry/metric which as a novice it hadn't occured to me to think about).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Wikipedia article &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_frame#Frame_geometry&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frame geometry&lt;/a&gt;&quot; introduces the vocabulary but without much detail. Googling reveals mostly short articles too, more ad-bait than detailed/informative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Given that I'm asking for details, a kind of 'science' question, this question is probably too long to answer here. What I might be asking for then is a link to a suitable introduction/reference (online, or a book...).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you might (I don't know) be able to give a short/summary answer along of, &quot;The most important measurements to look at are A, B, and C, which have the following effects... Taken together these few most important measurements account for 90% of the effects of geometry on fit/performance/handling/comfort.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, is this a topic that people don't learn about by reading, and which can only come from extensive experience of riding multiple bikes? How did you come by your understanding of geometry? Can you look at two bikes of a similar type and say, &quot;Oh, those have different shapes/measurements&quot; and understand what that (difference in measurements) means or implies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS.: interested in 'ordinary' frames: not frames with a suspension (so, not frames for off-road/all-terrain/jumping); not recumbent; not track/racing; not exotic/expensive materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T20:42:08.990" Title="Explaining the effects of frame geometries" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2011-02-26T17:05:43.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carry a &lt;strong&gt;Tool Roll&lt;/strong&gt; as an alternative to a saddle bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saddle bags are a pain to switch between bikes and to take off and on if you don't want someone stealing your tools while it's locked up. Often they're bulky to carry around off the bike in a messenger bag. Plus, most of them are not waterproof and need to be aired out if you don't want your tools rusting after a ride in the rain. A tool roll is easy to slip into my messenger bag or pannier. If I need to I can even carry it in a jersey pocket, or even on the bike itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oV1Nt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tool Roll&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="293" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T17:05:43.467" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-26T17:05:43.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2011-02-26T17:14:25.413" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear a Bern Brentwood with a winter liner in cold weather. It's a certified bike helmet, but designed more like a ski helmet. The winter liner does a great job of keeping my ears warm without wearing any other protection, but doesn't block traffic noise. It is vented, but not well enough that it makes my head cold. It also has a clip in the back for ski goggles if you're using them. With the summer liner it works well for fall and spring, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5I4Rx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bern Brentwood&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="293" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T17:14:25.413" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2914" CreationDate="2011-02-26T17:21:23.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US I bought bicycle touring specific maps from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adventure Cycling Association&lt;/a&gt;. They're on the expensive side (I just paid about $50 for ~1,000 miles worth of maps), but I like knowing that someone has personally tested each route by bike and that food stops, bike shops and that sort of thing are marked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've met plenty of tourists who used GPS, road maps, or no maps at all, so in the end it really comes down to what your comfort level is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="293" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T17:21:23.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2933" CreationDate="2011-02-26T17:29:33.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cut both corners off a plastic shopping bag and put it over my toes inside the shoe. It's free, and barely noticeable. I wear my regular summer shoes and socks during the winter, and even on cold days when I'm walking and biking through slush and heavy snow it keeps my feet nice and warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="293" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T17:29:33.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="318" CreationDate="2011-02-26T17:33:20.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what's already mentioned, I bring a small vial of &quot;liquid band-aid&quot;. It's good for small cuts, and with bandages it helps larger cuts heal faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="293" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T17:33:20.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2795" CreationDate="2011-02-26T17:40:21.237" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Baltimark asked, &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2795/a-test-ride-for-a-new-bicycle/2891#2891&quot;&gt;Let use know what you end up getting&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up getting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &quot;Kona Dr. Dew&quot; (with a $200 markdown because it's one of last year's model and now is just before the spring bike show)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydraulic disc brakes (my first non-rim brakes; they're 'wow' compared to rim brakes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Derailleurs (adjustable travel, and needed to be adjusted by one of the bike techs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires which were said to be puncture-resistant and which might (I infer from what the sales-person said) include some built-in slime; the tires say &quot;85 psi&quot; but the sales person said I can/should inflate them to 100 psi; they're 35 mm if I recall correctly; with treads, but not studs; they're OK going slowly on packed snow (unplowed well-trod foot path) but I took a tumble on a frozen puddle of sheer/flat ice; I felt confident about the traction (with or without justification, I don't know) on wet (but not puddled) roadway&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Commuter&quot; fenders front and back (metal stays, flexible metal-and-plastic bodies)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack on the back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One Bontrager &quot;interchange grocery bag&quot; pannier (clips on and off the rack; I heard the bike techs who installed it make an admiring remark about it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap flashing lights, front and back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bell (a legal requirement here; while I was at it, I got a loudish one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &quot;New York&quot; U-lock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Pinhead&quot; wheel locks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain lube for wet conditions, plus aerosol degreaser w/ mechanical chain cleaner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Floor pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A hard hat (reading the fine print in it afterwards, it says, &quot;this is not an approved helmet&quot;; but unlike other helmets I tried, it has less/no front-to-back wobble)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano SPD shoes (I'll practice with them for the first time, in a few weeks, when the unplowed bike paths are clear of snow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedals, made for SPD on one side and for street shoes on the other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the next two years from the LBS, 2 free tune-ups per year, plus unlimited single-thing adjustements e.g. to change a tire, fix a squeak or whatever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T17:40:21.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="318" CreationDate="2011-02-26T18:52:36.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cell-phone, possibly one that's specifically adapted to the purpose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switched off most of the time (so that its battery doesn't run down)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Therefore it's a spare (not your usual cell-phone which you're actualy using and running down)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perhaps with a pay-as-you-go subscription (because pay-by-the-month isn't worthwhile if you're not using it; or, emergency/911 calls might work (you'd better ask) even if the subscription has ellapsed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perhaps unusually simple and robust (to survive accidents), or shielded/padded (e.g. inside a first aid kit's hard shell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T18:52:36.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3049" CreationDate="2011-02-26T19:15:46.473" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see frame geometry having 3 primary affects&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fitting the rider; which you're already addressing and I won't talk about here...  But a lot of geometry stuff comes down to making the other stuff work with fitting riders on the bikes. It's very important.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fitting stuff on the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handling characteristics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you asked, I'm talking about your basic on-road diamond-frame bike. Cruiser, road, commuter, urban, touring, racer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fitting Stuff On the Bike&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheel clearance&lt;/strong&gt; affects how big the tires can be and how easy it is to mount fenders. For the rear wheel you need to look at the chainstay bridge, seatstay bridge and seat tube. For the front wheel, look at the fork crown and downtube. Often either not measured or simply given to you as a maximum tire size measurement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;Toe overlap&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; -- how close the front wheel gets to the front of the pedals. More of an issue with fenders, and not really an issue once you're going any kind of speed. I never see this on the geometry specs from manufacturers, but definitely worth checking. You can get used to moderate toe overlap, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Longer &lt;strong&gt;chainstay length&lt;/strong&gt; gives you more heel clearance for loading panniers on the rear rack. I know from personal experience that the most likely place to kick a pannier off the rack is in an intersection, so if you plan to carry panniers this can be very important. Short chainstay length can be compensated for by getting a rack that allows panniers to be mounted further back (longer top, top further back, however they do it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Handling characteristics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, the way a bike handles, &amp;quot;stability&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;maneuverability&amp;quot; are essentially opposites. It's a tradeoff. Whether you want stable or maneuverable depends on what you're going to do with the bike, how fast you'll be going, your riding experience, etc. And there's some more complicated harder-to-understand secondary effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really think that for most of the handling stuff you're best off just test-riding bikes that fit you. Experiment with the handling. Try going slow. Try going fast. Try making a sharp turn. Try making a subtle turn. Try a dodge/weave. Try those turns at different speeds. Try a fast start. Try a fast stop. Try all that in all the handlebar positions. Unless you're designing a bike, a lot of this is all very theoretical, heavily interrelated (can't really change one variable without changing the others), and likely to be very small differences when comparing actual bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom Bracket (BB) height&lt;/strong&gt; (sometimes you can find this out, sometimes you have to make a guess based on wheel+tire radius minus BB drop).  Higher bottom bracket makes it easier to go over stuff. Not really an issue if you stick to roads, but can be a factor when trying to pedal through sharp turns. Higher BB also lets you use longer cranks which some people want. Compare a Cyclocross to a Road bike and the CX bike will have a higher BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheelbase length&lt;/strong&gt; (distance between hubs/contact patches). A longer wheelbase will make the bike more longitudinally stable. In other words, less prone to wheelies and less prone to flipping you over the handlebars.  This could theoretically translate to better ability to stop faster. Note that one way to give you a longer wheelbase is longer chainstays. The position of your center of gravity makes a big difference, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Headtube angle&lt;/strong&gt; (steering axis angle). A shallower/slacker (more pointed forward) angle gives you more trail. A shallower angle also increases how much the weight can make the wheel flop on its own and negatively affect stability at low speed. This is usually measured from horizontal, so a steep angle will be closer to 90° and a shallow angle will be a lower number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fork offset/rake&lt;/strong&gt; (how far the front hub is in front of the steering axis). More offset gives you less trail. More offset also tends to give you more toe clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trail&lt;/strong&gt; is how far the front contact patch is behind the steering axis. Note that while the trail is the important measurement, the headtube angle and fork offset (and wheel size) are what determines the trail. A bicycle with no trail would be unrideable (but many people like having very little trail).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's different ways of measuring the trail (along the ground, or perpendicular to the steering axis) that make comparisons more intuitive, but more trail means more stable, and less trail means more maneuverable. Or to put it another way: less trail means more twitch and more trail means less responsive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stability from trail increases as the bicycle goes faster. If you look at some cruiser bikes they'll tend to have a shallow headtube angle and a lot of trail: they're stable and easy to balance at low speeds but probably hard to steer at high speed. If you look at a road/racing bike, the headtube angle is usually much closer to vertical and the trail is fairly small: they may feel unstable and wobbly (hard to balance) at low speeds, but are still easy to steer (responsive) at high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that the handlebar setup and rider preferences/experience make a huge difference whether your prefer maneuverable/twitchy/responsive or stable/unsteerable/unresponsive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;References&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_dynamics&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_dynamics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2020-07-29T21:14:31.573" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T21:14:31.573" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3049" CreationDate="2011-02-26T19:18:21.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A local bike shop owner pointed out to me that getting the right frame is the most important thing on a bike. If it's not right, then any other money or effort you put in to the bike is wasted. So, good topic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grant Petersen wrote this article about geometry on Rivendell's site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=34&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=34&lt;/a&gt;. It's not a complete treatment of the subject, and it's in Grant's typical rambling style, but I like reading his stuff for an &amp;quot;alternative viewpoint&amp;quot; vs. the mainstream trends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some excerpts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chainstay length....too short, bike is too jumpy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire and fender clearance....too little, can't run a big fun tire or fenders&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat tube angle....too steep, can't put seat back far enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head tube angle and fork rake: Combine to influence how the bike responds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fork blade length: Affects front wheel clearance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BB drop: Affects ground clearance, standover height, and bike &amp;quot;feel&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T19:13:11.520" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2871" CreationDate="2011-02-26T19:20:00.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Staying lit while totally stopped, for example at a junction, is a function of the light. It's definitely worthwhile, and a modern LED dynamo light with standlight function will give reasonable light for quite a while when stopped.&#xA;Theft of dynamo lights seems to be rare, but if you are worried, consider using non-standard screws or bolts to make it harder to remove them, not making them easily removeable like battery lights.&#xA;If you like the feeling of having the absolute best, even if it was pricy, get the Schmidt, but the better Shimano models are very nearly as good and quite a bit cheaper, and a B+M Cyo is very nearly as good as the Schmidt light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T19:20:00.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2864" CreationDate="2011-02-26T19:34:28.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyre driven dynamos can slip in rain or sleet. Hub dynamos can't slip, but do have a tiny amount of drag even when turned off. For a commuting bike, it's not enough to worry about, but on a high performance bike that you hardly ever use in the dark, with battery lights you don't have any drag from something you aren't using (and can leave them at home if you know you wan't need them).&#xA;And you can get battery powered lights that are much more powerful than dynamo lights. You can always buy a bigger battery, but there's a limit to how much power you can get from a dynamo. (On the other hand, no battery will last forever, and dynamo lights never need charging.) Modern LED dynamo lights are really very efficient, but for some off road use, many people want more (and dynamo hubs aren't really designed for that sort of use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T19:34:28.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3069" CreationDate="2011-02-26T21:06:20.647" Score="50" ViewCount="481881" Body="&lt;p&gt;After learning how to break a chain and reattach it, and also how to add and remove a master link, I find that I can now do much more in the way of maintenance at home. I'll no longer need to bring my bikes into the shop simply for a new chain... if I can only figure out how to identify what size chain I'll need to order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a simple way of telling what size and type of chain I'll need to order to replace the chain on a bike? Do I measure the chain links? Count links? Count gears on the cogs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, some of my bikes' drivetrains have internal hubs, some have derailer gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-02-27T20:36:05.370" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T06:08:57.883" Title="How can I tell which size chain my bike uses?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3063" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-26T22:10:17.100" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T22:10:17.100" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T22:10:17.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3064" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-26T22:10:17.100" Score="0" Body="Bikes designed for road use only. Could be any road-only bike, but typically means bikes optimized for speed / racing / club rides with drop handlebars, narrow tires and a crouched-forward rider position." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T20:52:18.630" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T20:52:18.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3065" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-26T22:26:25.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2837/what-is-randonneuring-how-to-get-started&quot;&gt;What is randonneuring? How to get started?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/touring&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'touring'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;touring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T22:26:25.953" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T22:26:25.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3066" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-26T22:26:25.953" Score="0" Body="Randonneuring is touring as a sport. Very long rides with a time limit." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T22:26:25.953" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T22:26:25.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3067" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-26T22:30:21.723" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T22:30:21.723" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T22:30:21.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3068" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-26T22:30:21.723" Score="0" Body="Mountain bike (MTB) can mean almost any kind of off-road bicycle. Wide knobby tires, flat handlebars, maybe shocks, probably a sturdy frame..." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T20:54:17.473" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T20:54:17.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3062" CreationDate="2011-02-27T01:20:05.803" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using a bike with a derailleur the number of cogs on the rear hub will determine the chain size you will need.  They are always 3/32&quot; chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a 5/6/7-speed, 8-speed, 9-speed, or 10-speed chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find a chain that matches your cluster pick a chain for a larger number, for example if you have an eight-cog cluster you can use a eight, nine or ten-speed chain, but you shouldn't use a 6 or 7-speed chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Internally geared hubs will have their own specification for the size chain they require, and single-speed, fixie, BMX bikes, and probably some older bikes use 1/8&quot; chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-25T03:58:20.403" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T03:58:20.403" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2011-02-27T02:35:07.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some places to park only have a 'bike stand': i.e. semi-circular hoops near the ground, which you put your wheels in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you put the front wheel in, then with a U-lock you can lock the wheel to the stand but you can't lock any of the frame to the stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may not be able to put the rear wheel in: if the rear wheel includes derailleur and disc brakes then the gear near the hub of the wheel may be too wide to fit in the stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And the stand isn't high enough to lean against.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there were a kickstand, then you could stand the bike over or next to the rack and lock the frame to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[This kind of stand is what I have in my apartment building's bike room: inside, where there aren't other lamp-posts or whatever to lock it to.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing without a stand is a little bit awkward when you want to change your gloves or something next to the road: lay the bike down, find something to lean it against, or do what you're doing while holdng the bike up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-02-27T02:42:31.487" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T02:42:31.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2011-02-27T05:16:33.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an Endura Gridlock jacket after spending a few months searching looking for options. It's not too expensive at about $100 USD retail, and it's a little on the heavy side (I bought it for cold weather use too) but still well vented. I plan on using it for touring and commuting. Showers Pass was probably a close second before I settled on Endura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously I had the cheapest set of rainproof clothes I could find at the bike shop, but I got tired of something that's not vented and generally crappy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="293" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T05:16:33.657" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-27T05:16:33.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2011-02-27T05:40:59.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;[This maybe ought to be a comment but it's probably too long for a comment]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long are your rides? Maybe the thing to manage is heat, not moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a hot sunny day you can plenty wet (from sweating while biking)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a freezing winter day you could get too wet/sweaty too, by biking in a too-warm winter coat without ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it rained while the temperature were 28C in the tropics, you wouldn't necessarily want a jacket then that could make you hotter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to commute 1/2 hour each way, rain or shine, hot or cold (in Toronto where 'cold' means about -15C), and instead of worrying about how wet I am (and when it pours, it really really pours), the thing to manage is how warm I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW I always have short-sleeved cotton shirts and jeans, and on top (to insulate my 'core') wear a variety of anoraks or windbreakers (e.g. with Gortex and a mesh interior lining that helps to keep the sweat off), winter coats (e.g. with down filling), polyester/fleece waistcoats ... typically with zips so I can vary their ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-02-27T06:14:00.777" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T06:14:00.777" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-27T05:40:59.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3083" CreationDate="2011-02-27T14:22:17.897" Score="6" ViewCount="4776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a mountain bike with front suspension. I've recently seen fork lube for sale on an online retailer. This got me thinking. Do I need to be using fork lube? How does it help? If I bought some how often do I need to use it and how do I apply it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-28T02:49:07.903" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T17:09:56.903" Title="Fork lube. Should I use it? If so how often?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3074" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-27T23:04:35.517" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-27T23:04:35.517" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T23:04:35.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3075" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-27T23:04:35.517" Score="0" Body="Everything on this site is about bicycles, so the tag is redundant. Do not use." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-02-27T23:04:35.517" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T23:04:35.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2011-02-28T05:12:39.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GORE-TEX&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other people have said, in their answers or in comments ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Don't bother with goretex- no waterproof is breathable enough for the amount of work you do riding offroad, and they are only really breathable when it's not raining anyway. Plus Goretex also only works when it is clean!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... and ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'll second the no-Goretex recommendation because it is a relatively heavy fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... and ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I only mention this because Gore-tex, and E-vent are expensive waterproof materials&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to mention that there's more than one kind of Gore-Tex (Gore-Tex is a manufacturer and brand of fabric by the way, which various other clothing manufacturers then use to make jackets etc.). For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Main/content_text.jsp?CONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id=10134198673220743&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302887251&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MEC mention at least 3 maybe 4 kinds&lt;/a&gt;, some heavier, some more breathable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GORE-TEX®&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GORE-TEX XCR®&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-ply and 3-ply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GORE-TEX PacLite®&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gore-tex.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the GORE-TEXT web site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jacket's performance depends partly on how its made (e.g. mine has a mesh lining inside which keeps it away from the skin, helps ventilation). It wasn't especially cheap; but I've had it for maybe 15 years now and it seems to me good as new (though unfortunately that brand isn't made/sold anymore).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth and for example, Amazon UK are selling Paclite jackets for GBP90..120. If it were me I'd want to try one on before I bought it. You might also find clothes discounted/on sale sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-02-28T06:21:09.270" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T06:21:09.270" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-28T05:12:39.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2011-02-28T08:25:11.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like my Montane &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.montane.co.uk/products/men/shell/velocity-dt-jacket/246&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velocity DT&lt;/a&gt;. It packs up really small and is a pretty good compromise between rain barrier and breathability. The RRP on the Montane website is above your £70, but shop around and you can get one for price - I did from Chain Reaction Cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1142" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T08:25:11.787" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-28T08:25:11.787" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2011-02-28T11:31:04.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used old &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File%3aBladder_pack.JPG&quot;&gt;wine cask bags&lt;/a&gt; (or bladders, readily available in Australia, not too sure about rest of the world) packed either into a pannier or strapped onto the top of the rear rack (not the best position but I was fully loaded).  Some would say the slight after taste of wine is a bonus.  I have also seen unused bladders available from some camping stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have carried water purification tablets just to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T11:31:04.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3062" CreationDate="2011-02-28T13:19:21.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 1/8&quot; or 3/32&quot; refers to the internal width of the chain, i.e. the width of the rollers.&#xA;Other sizes do exist, but are rare: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ch.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ch.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;If you look at a 1/8&quot; and 3/32&quot; chain side by side, it's fairly clear which is which.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chains for derailleur use have thinner sideplates and therefore a smaller external size for increasing number of sprockets. So in principle you can measure the outside width and work it out that way, but in practice its much easier just to know how many gears are on the bike you want to use it with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not entirely true that you can always use a narrower chain designed for more sprockets if you don't have the right size available - if you use a 9-speed chain with a chainset or sprockets designed for 7-speed chain, you might find that shifting is poor because the little shaped ramps designed to catch on the chain and help lift it onto a bigger gear don't catch the smaller plates properly, or even that the narrower chain can jam into a gap between sprockets where the correct chain wouldn't fit.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html#chains&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html#chains&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T13:19:21.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3073" CreationDate="2011-02-28T14:00:29.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not looked into this but my first inclination is to avoid it.  Your fork already has oil on the inside and seals that are supposed to keep elements on the outside.  So, for this lube to make much of a difference it would have to soak into the seals, which means the seals aren't that sealed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also think that putting lube on the stanchions would attact grit and grime, something I work hard at keeping away from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your fork is sticking or otherwise not moving smoothly through it's travel, you may want to look into getting it rebuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just my two cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T14:00:29.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-28T14:56:10.583" Score="5" ViewCount="3141" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has been floating around in my head for a while, mainly because I don't know anything about grips (edit to resolve confusion:covers for the part of the handlebar you hold on to). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there different types of grips available for mountain bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do different types of grip affect handling or comfort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-03-02T20:58:03.520" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T16:33:23.010" Title="What types of mountain bike handle bar grips are available and how to they affect comfort and handling?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;grips&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3081" CreationDate="2011-02-28T15:32:14.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which grips you get for a mountain bike is mostly a matter of comfort and personal taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of how they attach to the bike, there are grips that glue on and grips that screw on. They're exactly what they sound like. Locking grips (that tighten onto the bars with an allen key or a screwdriver) will avoid the grips twisting over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get &quot;ergonomic&quot; locking grips. I had a pair of these and found them quite comfortable, and again, this is a matter of personal preference. (I also found that they reduced fine control just a little bit.) Some even come with smaller barends built-in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-05T16:33:23.010" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T16:33:23.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3073" CreationDate="2011-02-28T17:09:56.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consult the repair manual for your fork. It will tell you where to lubricate and how much to apply. Without knowing what fork you have, we can others only speculate. Check the manual or post the model and we can look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T17:09:56.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2207" CreationDate="2011-02-28T17:24:24.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the same manufacturer (or similar reputable) the safety is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This years model costs more, mostly to make up for selling last years model at half price!&#xA;The top end ranges do have better ventilation, more comfortable or more adjustable padding and straps and have a logo on the box that says they were endorsed by this years Tour de France winner (unless they have just been caught taking drugs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I buy last year's model from a reputable maker when the LBS has them on sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since helmets need to be replaced every few years (the plastic degrades) I don't worry about how long a better quality helmet will last. For me the padding and straps become horribly degraded from sweat long before the impact foam chemically degrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also buy two helmets for summer use and alternate them so they at least have a chance to dry out. Older ones get relegated to winter use with the padding removed when I wear a hat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T17:24:24.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3089" CreationDate="2011-02-28T18:18:58.627" Score="8" ViewCount="4737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed there's some friction in my free hub on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/model/tcr.advanced.sl.3/3871/36659/&quot;&gt;TCR&lt;/a&gt; - when I pedal backwards slowly, I can get the rear wheel to roll backwards (while on the stand). This strikes me as a bad thing - means when I'm coasting on the bike, I'm losing more speed than I should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to fix this? Is this something I should take to my friendly LBS and have them take a look, or is it something I should be able to handle at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2019-10-07T09:55:59.587" Title="Friction in the free hub?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2011-02-28T18:28:44.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Anthony says, collapsible bottles / bladders have got to be the way to go. They allow you to adapt the amount of water you carry on a daily basis, without taking up much room when you're not using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carried a couple of 2 liter collapsible bottles while touring in Australia. Didn't use them all the time, since I had bike bottles too, but they came in handy when I needed to go for a couple of days without access to water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purification tablets are also a must !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1160" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T18:28:44.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3086" CreationDate="2011-02-28T22:34:10.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That bike has Mavic Ksyrium hubs, and at least one person has had &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixya.com/support/t2353034-noisy_rear_mavic_ksyrium_hub&quot;&gt;noise and friction issues&lt;/a&gt; with one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, they are known for their quite aggressive freewheels so you may just be hearing the loud clicking and feeling the slight friction that results. The solution is &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=157602&quot;&gt;not to freewheel if you're in a hurry&lt;/a&gt;. Using oil instead of grease in the freewheel might help, or it might not. Weakening the springs, using heavier grease and grinding down the freewheel pawls might also work but the risk of having a nasty accident when it fails is quite high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it really bothers you a different freewheel (if you can) or wheelset are the real solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T22:34:10.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3062" CreationDate="2011-03-01T01:51:23.883" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The length and number of links doesn't matter - as all chains are sold too long and you'll need to remove some links to make it the correct length for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The width is critical.  You need to get one that suits the number of gears on your cassette/cluster/rear sprocket (those are all terms for the same thing - the gears on the back wheel of your bike).  Count the number of gears, not the teeth on the gears (that's irrelevant).  You will probably have either 1 (single speed), 7,8,9,10, or 11 (probably not 11 - those are very expensive and since you're asking this question I'm guessing you don't have 11). When you buy a new chain, tell the bike store guy (BSG) that you need a chain for X speed where X is the number of gears.  If you buy online, the description of the item will specify this number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of the links (in mm or inches) is irrelevant if you get the number of gears right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brand will probably be printed on the chain links.  It is probably Shimano, SRAM or possibly Campagnolo.  Although some are compatible, I'd recommend you get the same brand as your rear cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;type&quot; of chain is printed on each link = HG-70 or something like that.  I recommend that until you really know what you're doing, just buy the same one that came off the old bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastEditorUserId="1161" LastEditDate="2018-09-23T16:25:11.240" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T16:25:11.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3086" CreationDate="2011-03-01T01:57:35.627" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ksyriums do that, and have done for the last 5 years.  They still work fine, so I wouldn't be worried about them breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have on a couple of occasions taken the hub apart and cleaned an re-greased the palls and all bearing surfaces.  This seemed to reduce it slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend any changes to the internals of the hub, other than cleaning and lubricating.  The consequence of a hub failure at speed are quite bad.  The amount of drag you are experiencing is quite small.  It's not worth risking that crash for that tiny gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are racing, and that tiny amount of drag really is the difference between win/lose (or, as in my case, between being dropped and hanging on the back. ;-) ) then you might consider second &quot;racing&quot; wheelset.  If you do that, I recommend ceramic bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T01:57:35.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3093" CreationDate="2011-03-01T05:12:49.333" Score="7" ViewCount="8887" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most comfortable bike I've ever owned was a road bike with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_handlebar#Pursuit&quot;&gt;bullhorn&lt;/a&gt; (aka pursuit) bars. I actually had a pair of STI levers on it, mounted upside down (with the handles pointing forward). They looked kinda scary, but they were really good that way - I found it was much easier to use the levers that way than on normal road bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've since moved on to a flat-bar road bike with hydraulic disc brakes. So my question is - is there any way of getting bullhorn bars going with the current setup - ie hydraulic levers and mountain bike style gear changers. I could conceivably turn the brake levers upside down again and then get bar end shifters for the gears. Would that work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there an off-the-shelf solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T17:36:41.733" Title="Can I put bullhorn bars on a bike with hydraulic disc brakes" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3092" CreationDate="2011-03-01T10:10:43.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your options are fairly limited, nearly all bullhorn bars are sized for 23.8mm road brake levers, while mountain levers are sized for 22.2mm handlebars.  There do appear to be some 22.2mm bullhorn bars listed on eBay currently, but your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also have luck finding some 22.2mm &quot;north road&quot; style bars that you can flip over or trekking bars with close to the right shape that you can cut down. Alternatively, a set of hydraulic brakes with suitably modifiable clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as better levers than just using your mountain levers, it's expected that drop-bar hydraulic levers are coming in the not-too-distant future due to disc brakes' recent legalization in UCI cyclocross.  In the interim there are some pretty ugly hacks, basically involving running a set of cables from a cabled brake to an interim hydraulic lever. It's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cxmagazine.com/drop-bar-hydraulic-disc-brakes-cable-pull-adapter-for-cyclocross-cannard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;not&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/jimmythefly/4978934588/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;elegant&lt;/a&gt;, to say the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T10:10:43.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3086" CreationDate="2011-03-01T19:22:21.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This means the rolling resistance of your wheel is smaller than the friction resistance of the free hub. On really good hubs, this is expected, because the free hub latch actually slides on the casing, and the rest rolls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Congratulate yourself on the quality of your hubs, and go on biking happily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T19:22:21.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="515" CreationDate="2011-03-01T22:31:46.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck strapping my TerraTrike to the top of a Matrix.  We have a roof rack, which makes it easier.  But before that I just fed the straps through the doors.  The trickiest part is that at highway speeds, there's a lot of stuff that can fly off.  (I lost a fender that way.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my procedure is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the seat back as far down as possible, to reduce drag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strap down fenders and anything else that's loose with velcro.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put cargo straps through the trike tires to strap the car to the roof.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1167" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T22:31:46.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2011-03-01T22:42:18.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had a car not see me, who would have seen a bicycle.  That said, it's crucial to bike safely and to stay where the cars are looking:  in the street, not the gutter or sidewalk.  I also use a flag and reflectors.  I particularly like reflectors on my body and helmet, since we perceive body motion more easily than machine (straight line) motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, flags don't help the worst visibility problem:  when a car is approaching from a side street and not looking in your lane.  Your front gears may be the only part visible, and they blend in at night.  You need to grab that car's attention, so I have reflective tape all over the sides of my pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1167" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T22:42:18.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2011-03-02T07:41:22.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dry and/or dirty chain is, in fact often the culprit.  I've used the Sram PC7X and it was a perfectly fine, silent chain for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another typical source of noise in fixed-gear or singlespeed riding is an offset chainline.  Ensure your chainline offset is equal on the front and rear.  Also, it is a common misconception that fixed-gear chains should be &quot;as tight as possible&quot;, this leads to binding and premature chain wear.  Lastly, I note that you're using a 1/8&quot; chain; if you have a 3/32&quot; chainring or cog in your drivetrain the extra 1/32&quot; of slop can definitely cause a bit of a chattering noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T07:41:22.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3086" CreationDate="2011-03-02T12:18:58.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mavic wheels have three bearings -- one of the bearings is just for the freewheel.  If you're experiencing really bad drag from the freewheel, it's possible this bearing needs to be replaced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tearing apart the freewheel is not terribly difficult, but if you don't have a nice space to work in it could be kind of a pain.  For comparrison: when you replace a casette, you're about halfway to the wheel bearings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to do it, I would recommend cleaning everything as much as possible, and then re-greasing it.  The trick with grease is to use a very small quantity.  It's really important to keep things lubed, but excess grease can be a source of friction.  I do think it's important to use grease rather than oil, because grease will protect the parts from water and dirt more effectively than oil will -- just be sure to use a very thin film of grease, and you're good to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="993" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T12:18:58.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3081" CreationDate="2011-03-02T12:27:49.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grips come in different materials. I've tried some rubber grips that have a tread pattern. They're quite grippy for when you need to hold on over rough ground. I found though they could be quite abrasive on my hands and that they could actually cause my skin to split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've switched to some dense foam (ritchy ergo grips) and they still feel grippy enough, but the material is softer on the hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'd recommend getting comfier grips and having thinner gloves rather than trying to get all of your padding in to your glove. It might be my personal preference, but I think this combination gives a better balance of both comfort and control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T12:27:49.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2915" CreationDate="2011-03-02T14:19:51.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must know how to &lt;em&gt;prioritize&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tight budgeting, reuse and substitutes&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new/expensive items can attract high import duties so be well prepared with some extra grit and perhaps-even-auction-site-sell-outs, more on the final page &lt;a href=&quot;http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&amp;amp;q=cache:l1ZvzQtUCvIJ:www.ibike.org/encouragement/travel/self-contained3.pdf+Bicycle+touring:+how+to+prepare+for+long+rides+type:pdf&amp;amp;hl=fi&amp;amp;gl=fi&amp;amp;pid=bl&amp;amp;srcid=ADGEESgoPT-AJkPRwkFGqfkTbCGxATDVEVcyQlxcMC-83-klzlXTbZDeIqrrWUVIkwHKmqNl0itgl-NjeW0Cqtk73AC-2a2TrjYkvEwlVsjhUR13jFR7uSq7LuYQqPMg8fHRK1uUjYvQ&amp;amp;sig=AHIEtbSs1ewD16iG3AOIZwhVX5ugHqNPNQ&amp;amp;pli=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;money belt (still open the safest way)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wine cask bags to store water, more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2986/carrying-water-during-touring/3078#3078&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooking oil to clean dirty chains, more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2903/how-to-maintain-chains-during-touring/3037#3037&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;light-weight, double-duty and independence&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no nice heavy leg-pump so high-volume endurance tires because they won't easily break and they are easy to pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;light utensils such as Light-my-fire -item&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace your U-lock with things such as locking skewers, two-open-ended cable, rear-cycle-lock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your catastrophe heater works in cooking and purifying water, more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2969/water-safety-during-touring/3102#3102&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have some prescription drugs more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/318/what-are-important-items-for-a-touring-first-aid-kit/3017#3017&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and your other meds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;passport, some cash, phone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first-aid-kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some emergency-tools like powerful-flashlight-knife/pepper-spray/equivalent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sleeping bag rather than a tent should have your top priority, more on the page 20 of the book [x].&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bivy bag, tarp-tent and hammock with parachute cord (about 1-2meters per end in your hammock with knots along)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lights: torch with rechargeable batteries and hub-dynamo-lights (theft-risk i.e. expensive) like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1466/recommended-good-value-cycle-lights-for-commute/2753#2753&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (nb the open-ended cable). Recommendation to have one flashlight for touring front-light and for camping the better, more about the double duty on the page 4 [x]. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Books &amp;amp; Checklists&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US-biased tips about sleeping on the page 111 in the book [y], covers shortly legality and such things. In summary, AYH, how-to-act-in-hotels/motels, where-to-look-sleeping-places, lawn-sleeping, --&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Availabitily of bicycle parts in different locations such as African countries on the page 67 of the book [x]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;claims-to-be-complete checklist &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletouringpro.com/blog/jim-dirlams-complete-bicycle-touring-gear-checklist/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but contains some oddities like pepper-spray, QR axle -- and misses prescription meds (just an overview)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;self-contained bicycle gears &lt;a href=&quot;http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&amp;amp;q=cache:l1ZvzQtUCvIJ:www.ibike.org/encouragement/travel/self-contained3.pdf+Bicycle+touring:+how+to+prepare+for+long+rides+type:pdf&amp;amp;hl=fi&amp;amp;gl=fi&amp;amp;pid=bl&amp;amp;srcid=ADGEESgoPT-AJkPRwkFGqfkTbCGxATDVEVcyQlxcMC-83-klzlXTbZDeIqrrWUVIkwHKmqNl0itgl-NjeW0Cqtk73AC-2a2TrjYkvEwlVsjhUR13jFR7uSq7LuYQqPMg8fHRK1uUjYvQ&amp;amp;sig=AHIEtbSs1ewD16iG3AOIZwhVX5ugHqNPNQ&amp;amp;pli=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;: covers important things such as how-to-use iodine/chlorine tablets, white-water-bottle-instead-of-clear, why-to-add-some-extra-grit-to-your-items-in-entering-a-country,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;References&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[x] the book &lt;em&gt;&quot;Bicycle touring: how to prepare for long rides&quot;&lt;/em&gt; by Steve Butterman&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[y] the book &lt;em&gt;&quot;The essential touring cyclist: the complete guide for the bicycle traveler By Richard A. Lovett, Vera Jagendorf&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T17:08:47.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3104" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-02T18:14:30.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I take my bike on the bus? Will my bike fit on the train? What are the rules? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example questions include: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2529/will-my-road-bike-fit-in-the-racks-on-a-public-transit-bus-now-that-i-have-put-fe&quot;&gt;Will my road bike fit in the racks on a public transit bus now that I have put fenders on it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1596/can-i-take-my-bike-on-the-new-york-city-subway-or-buses&quot;&gt;Can I take my bike on the New York City subway or buses?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-02T18:14:30.540" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T18:14:30.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3105" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-02T18:14:30.540" Score="0" Body="Questions about using bikes on public transportation" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-02T18:14:30.540" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T18:14:30.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3131" CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:45:17.813" Score="5" ViewCount="7375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't want to buy a ready made bike because singlespeed or fixed gear bikes are way expensive due to their popularity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make my own bike, I haven't build a bike from scratch before. I want a light, simple bike, a fixie or a single speed, maybe a flip-flop. I am going to use it in city which practically doesn't have a single hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that first step is to find a frame. What kind of frame should I get? How do I understand that a frame is compatible and good? When buying a second hand frame, what should I look for? (most common stress points to check, or similar...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1171" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:44:09.317" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T16:51:12.770" Title="Fixie/Single speed frame information for beginner" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;reference&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3106" CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:58:20.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are sure that you do not want gears ever, you can get a dedicated single speed frame for pretty cheap, like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_516649_-1_202311_10000_202389&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nashbar SS Frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of frame is nice because you won't need to run a chain tensioner, making it simpler to maintain.  From there, just search for deals on the rest of the parts.  If you can, you might want to look for either a carbon or steel fork, they tend to dampen vibrations better than aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also surf ebay and craigslist for used stuff, or join a local biking club where someone always seems to be selling something on the cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T19:58:20.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3081" CreationDate="2011-03-02T20:19:16.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a year ago, I mounted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/product/gp1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ergon GP1&lt;/a&gt; on my standard bike (BMW cruise bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm more than happy with the feeling and comfort, so I recently mounted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/product/gc2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ergon GC2&lt;/a&gt; on my new MTB (Swissbike X5). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad Scandinavian winter weather has kept me from testing them, but the GP1 experience makes me think they'll perform as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last summer, my mother-in-law complained about numbness and pains in her hands when riding her MTB. I got her and my father-in-law ergonomic handle grips from BBB similar to the Ergon GP1 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mother-in-law reported that the numbness was gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T20:19:16.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2011-03-02T20:22:31.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I'd add to the other suggestions are mud guards.  Good mudguards (&quot;fenders&quot; in the US) are well worth getting to prevent the grime which is generally worse in the wet and nasty conditions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally ride a mountain bike when there is snow or ice because I like having wider tires so all I have to do is be careful on turns when it comes to the slippery stuff.  Ironically semi slicks generally haven't caused me a problem.  I am used to riding off road though so I can deal with my bike trying to slide out to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using a road bike a lot I'd recommend full 'sensible' mudguards.  i.e. the sort that cover as much of the wheel as possible as opposed to mtb style flaps because as well as preventing you getting mucky they will prevent more of the frame and working components (like chain) from catching so much grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With mtb mudguards pay attention to the angles and adjust them as you need to to find what works.  If you're leaving it parked in the outside avoid quick release mudguards (unless you want to cart around crud caked bulky parts).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy extra flaps to extend mudguards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-02T21:23:04.910" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T21:23:04.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2011-03-02T20:42:39.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only other I would add is very good lights - even during the day.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Drivers are going to be concentrating more on driving and probably have steamed up or partly covered windows. It's going to be darker/overcast - even during the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having rear flashing lights, and another one higher on your jacket/helmet is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check that you rear lights / reflectors haven't been covered by thrown up dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T20:42:39.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3120" CreationDate="2011-03-03T09:52:36.433" Score="11" ViewCount="10631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've managed to completely break the folding left-hand pedal on my Brompton.  The bit where it fastens onto the crank* is fine, but the rest of it gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tool(s) do I need to remove the broken pedal and fit a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking this because I want to compare the price of doing it myself (pedal + tools) to the price of getting my local Brompton dealer to do it (pedal + labor + loss of self-respect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Please forgive me if my terminology is terribly wrong! :o&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="690" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-03T15:36:59.863" LastActivityDate="2020-01-14T19:06:41.537" Title="Replace Brompton folding pedal - what tool is needed?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;brompton&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3114" CreationDate="2011-03-03T12:01:44.597" Score="5" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that most commonly MTB's use 1 1/8&quot; steerers and older non-suspension bikes use 1&quot; but I don't really know anything about the width of modern road bikes.  Do they now use 1 1/8&quot; or do they use a different width?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T00:10:55.297" Title="Do road bikes use the same width headsets?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3111" CreationDate="2011-03-03T12:21:14.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having never seen a folding Brompton pedal, I would assume a standard pedal wrench would do the trick.  It's basically a skinny 15mm open end wrench: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-pedal-wrench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-pedal-wrench&lt;/a&gt;.  Keep in mind the left side pedal is reverse threaded, so you'll have to turn it clockwise to loosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T12:21:14.753" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3112" CreationDate="2011-03-03T13:38:46.537" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern bicycles, be they road or mountain, use 1 1/8&quot; threadless headsets.  You will occasionally find bicycles, particularly in the lower cost ranges, that will still use an old 1&quot; threaded headset and a threaded quill stem, but these are becoming more and more rare every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T13:38:46.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3115" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-03T17:45:34.983" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-03T17:45:34.983" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T17:45:34.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3116" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-03T17:45:34.983" Score="0" Body="The rubber attached to the rim of your wheel. Flats, changing tires, selecting tires, etc." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T20:53:18.893" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T20:53:18.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3117" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-03T17:47:50.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Topics include: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Building bicycles inexpensively&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less expensive bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper maintenance supplies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:22:55.250" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:22:55.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3118" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-03T17:47:50.877" Score="0" Body="Inexpensive bicycle goods and services. Maintenance and repairs done cheaply, etc." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T21:57:51.117" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T21:57:51.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2011-03-03T19:45:45.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442621328&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302694071&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Feedback stand from MEC&lt;/a&gt;!, I've been using it for a while and 2 things annoy me, the clamp is screwed which takes time to get a bike on and there's shaft that insert into each other to shrink it, the middle ring is loose and at a certain height, the smaller shaft slides down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1176" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T19:45:45.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3111" CreationDate="2011-03-04T00:15:49.027" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a pre-2012 non-titanium Brompton, it takes a 24mm socket.  If it's a 2012 on-wards, it needs an 8mm Allen key.  The 2009 to 2012 titanium Brompton used a 10mm Allen key in a Ti pedal bolt.  The official &lt;a href=&quot;https://trade.brompton.com/Uploads/QPart/QPart-Datasheets/ds-ped.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instructions&lt;/a&gt; are available on Brompton's site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very important: remember that the left hand pedal is left-threaded -- the reverse of normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that pedals can get quite tight.  A standard 8mm Allen wrench might well not be enough leverage.  An 8mm Allen socket combined with a larger  socket wrench is a better tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T18:19:27.543" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T18:19:27.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3106" CreationDate="2011-03-04T01:08:15.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've heard different countries have different systems so if you buy italian frame all the other parts also have to be italian. Is it true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sheldon Brown web site is often recommended as a reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_i-k.html#Italian&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;it says something about Italian sizes here&lt;/a&gt; (which is already concise and which I therefore don't want to summarise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T01:08:15.147" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T01:08:15.147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="512" CreationDate="2011-03-04T01:52:08.450" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://hasebikes.com/150-1-tandem-pino-tour.html&quot;&gt;Hase Pino&lt;/a&gt;. Tandem Bike, but built to let a recumbent rider get a full view from the front, without having to steer or balance, while the captain can sit upright with the same awesome view. There's accessories for seatbelts or handcranks, if that's your thing. Also, the newest models fold in the middle, so they can fit in a trunk. On the other hand, mine doesn't fold, but it's short enough that I can just put it on a trunk rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1180" LastEditorUserId="1180" LastEditDate="2011-03-04T19:55:37.250" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T19:55:37.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3124" CreationDate="2011-03-04T07:14:24.113" Score="3" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alert: this cassette conf cannot be used in all touring locations because of poor support. I use it only in 1st world countries.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest cog at the back is about 12-14cm. The length from hole-to-hole-opposite is about 10.5cm. The length between adjacent holes is about 7.86cm. The hole is the thing by which the cogs are attached to the bike and there are four holes. &lt;em&gt;&quot;Mega Drive Train&quot;&lt;/em&gt; is written on the cog-thing. The derailleur-thing is LX Deore Shimano. I upgraded to a new chain PC-951 but it jumps a lot with cogs 2 and 3 (did not jump that much with the streched old chain). So I want to upgrade to new cogs/cassettes. The cog configuration is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Back&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;largest cog: 32 teeth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smallest cog: 11 teeth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Front&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;largest cog: 48 teeth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smallest cog: 26 teeth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so how can I know which cassettes I can buy? I can find a variety of cassettes advertised for &quot;11-32 cassette&quot; but 26-48 returns none in eBay, perhaps a calculation err (any fast way to recheck?!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I change the number of cogs? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I can change the cog amounts, are there some tables to look for good tested configurations? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have no clue why just these cog amounts were selected to my Crescent Sport bike. What would be a good cog configuration for touring?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which cassettes and cogs would you recommend for low-cost quality choices (a bit like SRAM PC-951)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H7nEt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front cogs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4mf5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cogs at the back&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yfsp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;attachement points with the front cogs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-05T16:39:35.997" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T16:39:35.997" Title="Good 9-speed cog configuration for touring and which low-cost quality cassettes?" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3123" CreationDate="2011-03-04T13:55:17.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, in the front they are called chainrings, god knows why they need to have a different name, but they do.  The fronts can be sold as a set, but can just as easily be gotten individually.  I actually purchased a 26T chainring in the front for something like $10.  For chainrings you will need to know the diameter (in millimeters) of an imaginary circle that would pass through all the bolts that hold the ring on and also the number of bolts that hold it on.  Often there is one diameter that holds that smallest ring and another that holds the two larger ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rear, you don't need to know the diameter, just the number of gears.  Cassettes are often sold as a group and the two big names are SRAM and Shimano and for 9 speeds they are compatible with each other.  At the small end of the cassette, your current setup is about as small as you will find (11T), but if you are wanting more climbing ability they make big cogs up to 36T (or bigger if you want custom).  There is currently an option to go with 10 speeds but that will require replacing your entire drivetrain, not a cheap option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you go replacing the chainrings, try the cassette first and see if that resolves you skipping issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T13:55:17.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2258" CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:55:39.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a kids bike without the drive train.  Specialized &lt;em&gt;Hotrock&lt;/em&gt; 12&quot; without a drive train works.  The Specialized &lt;em&gt;Hotwalk&lt;/em&gt; was small for my son.  By removing the pedals etc and lowering the seat to the min it worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downside, it cost $160.  Upside, I can put the pedals back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1183" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T15:55:39.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:55:52.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't got one myself, but I'm looking for a smartphone mount in order to navigate/go geocaching, and found this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikereviews.com/2010/12/topeak-2011-iphone-dry-bag/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bikereviews.com/2010/12/topeak-2011-iphone-dry-bag/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3rKI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastEditorUserId="1119" LastEditDate="2011-03-04T16:19:29.287" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T16:19:29.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3128" CreationDate="2011-03-04T16:12:33.707" Score="7" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really enjoy cycling, but haven't been doing much lately.  My wife also enjoys cycling, but had a bad crash a couple years ago on her fast road bike and now will only ride her old (really slow) touring bike.  We're not sure &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; she crashed, she doesn't remember much of it, and I was ahead of her at the time.  She's concerned that it might be a balance problem, and has never been very comfortable with her road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that a tandem might be the way to go.  Thought being that it would be more stable, and she wouldn't have to be responsible for steering.  It would also keep us together while riding (her maximum speed right now is lower than my minimum speed, I end up doing lots of 360s in the middle of the road to let her catch up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Difficulty being transporting it around for group rides.  We have 3 small cars (MR2, Celica, and Eclipse).  One is a two seater that I have a regular bike rack that fits, the other two are hatchbacks (neither has much space in the back, one of them can fit her road bike, but only if she takes the front wheel off).  Are there any tandems that &quot;fold up&quot; to fit on a standard bike rack?  I just don't see roof racks as being an option as the cars are so small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other ideas that I've missed?  I don't think she'd go for the balance wheels on her bike (and it still wouldn't cover all the speed difference issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorUserId="349" LastEditDate="2011-03-04T16:28:05.597" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T01:43:38.737" Title="Tandem for limited space?" Tags="&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3127" CreationDate="2011-03-04T19:48:28.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does sound like a tandem is a good option for you and your wife. A trike for her (many recumbents are trikes) might solve the balance problem, but not the speed issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are definitely folding tandems out there.  Might even be able to fold up and stick in the back seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;simplest&quot; way to get what you want is an an [S&amp;amp;S Coupled bike with a [single split in front](http://www.sandsmachine.com/tandem.htm#single split in front).  That's a bike that doesn't &quot;fold&quot;, but does split into two pieces (or 3). If it splits in front you should be able to put it on a car bike rack and won't have to mess with taking a chain off. It's possible to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandsmachine.com/#retrofit&quot;&gt;retrofit&lt;/a&gt; many non-aluminum bikes into a folding/travel bike this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe usually people get an S&amp;amp;S coupled tandem so they can fly with the tandem and not pay outrageous shipping costs. Since you're more interested in getting a bike onto a bike rack on the back of your car you should have an easier time finding options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the good news: yes, options exist. The bad news: they're custom or semi-custom and generally expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take into account that tandems can be hard to fit properly unless you're the &quot;right&quot; size difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is probably locating a couple framebuilders near you and talking to them about your needs.  But look around at a few of these links to see what some options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikefriday.com/tandem&quot;&gt;Folding Tandems from Bike Friday&lt;/a&gt; -- folds up small enough to fit in back seat. Custom. The &quot;example&quot; build prices that look like a fast road bike tandem setups seem to start around $3000 USD &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://zinncycles.com/Zinn/index.php/archives/985&quot;&gt;Zinn Cycles Tandems&lt;/a&gt; -- I think the Titanium S&amp;amp;S coupled tandem is a model I saw at a big group ride. &quot;$12,000 and up&quot;, but the steel travel tandem could be as little as $8000.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calfeedesign.com/products/tetra/&quot;&gt;Calfee&lt;/a&gt; seems to have carbon road tandems with S&amp;amp;S couplings available for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calfeedesign.com/product/tandem-frames-pricing/&quot;&gt;$8000&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandsmachine.com/fbplist.htm#USA&quot;&gt;S&amp;amp;S Coupling US Framebuilder List&lt;/a&gt; (look on their site through the photo gallery and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandsmachine.com/retlist.htm&quot;&gt;retailer list&lt;/a&gt;, too. And at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandsmachine.com/tandem.htm&quot;&gt;tandem&lt;/a&gt; page. Oh, and the [tandem retrofit photo gallery](http://www.sandsmachine.com/#Tandem Retrofits))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If I could afford it and had those needs, I'd talk to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sycip.com/&quot;&gt;my local framebuilder&lt;/a&gt; since he's on the S&amp;amp;S framebuilder list and does a bit of tandem stuff even if he doesn't list prices for them yet. But framebuilders closer to you are probably a better option than one in my town.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T19:48:28.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3106" CreationDate="2011-03-05T01:36:47.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting with a second hand frame and scrounging second hand parts for it is definitely the way to go if youŕe trying to save money. Many cities have some kind of bicycle recycling group in them, but it can be hard to track them down. They will be able to help you a lot and will save you both money and time. Asking around bike shops and checking their notice boards or any posters they have up is the most likely way in my experience. If you have to start by collecting bikes from the rubbish dump itś going to be a long, hard process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to buy a new frame and put new parts on it that will cost more than a similar bike bought ready-made. You're buying parts one at a time retail, the assembly plant buys them by the containerload, or from a nearby factory. In Australia you can get a new fixie from a bike shop from about $400, and one that's ridable from about $600. A cheap frame by itself will cost at least $250, and a pair of wheels another $150. This is partly because people wanting to build their own are rarely after cheap stuff, and partly because no retailer sells enough parts to get the volume discounts that assemblers do. I have a friend who manufactures custom bikes, and he gets shipments of 200 wheels for less than half the wholesale price of a single wheel sourced locally (so less than 1/4 of the retail price).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest sitting down and doing a rough budget based on buying parts from a single online retailer. It doesn't matter that you will miss a few of the small parts, since the total cost is likely to be alarming. And you haven't even added in the cost of reselling parts that don't fit and buying replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least I suggest you will need to visit a bike shop for fitting the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2759#2759&quot;&gt;bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt; (the thread-chasing tool is expensive, and you may need to try several bottom brackets to get your chain alignment correct). You may also need them to fit the headset, because again doing it properly requires a few expensive tools. The rest you can do with basic workshop tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T22:13:21.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="318" CreationDate="2011-03-05T12:40:30.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would substitute the tape and roll of gauze for a small ace bandage and a few gauze pads.  You'll be able to treat the same injuries as you would with the tape and gauze roll but with the added benefit of the ace bandage to use as a brace.  If you wreck and jam your wrist or you have a knee that starts acting up an ace bandage will let you keep riding.  I carry Betadine instead of a gel based antibiotic, it helps the gauze stay put and can make it's way deeper into a cut.  I'd also throw in a few safety pins, good for gear repair and digging out splinters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T12:40:30.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3127" CreationDate="2011-03-05T16:20:54.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might simply go with a roof rack.  It's like having a canoe on the roof - it overhangs in the front a bit but the rails will work just fine.  I've loaded four bikes, including a tandem, on the roof of a Subaru Impreza.  For the extreme example, check out this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f19/tandem-bike-rack-installed-23653/&quot;&gt;tandem rack on a Smart&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also might have a look at the underlying geometry issues of her single bike. Modern road bike handling isn't for everyone, and there are definitely more stable but still fast bicycles available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T16:20:54.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2735" CreationDate="2011-03-05T16:28:55.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not done the maths, but angular momentum is proportional to the radius of the circle. So those big wheels benefit a lot from mass reduction, but the relatively small turn around your chainring much less so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I'd think that the chain mass can largely be considered just another part - if it's much cheaper per gram to save weight there than your saddle or bars go for it, otherwise your money may be better spent elsewhere, especially as the chain is a consumable part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T16:28:55.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3106" CreationDate="2011-03-05T16:55:03.543" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building a frugal dumpster/secondhand singlespeed or fixed gear is definitely one of those tasks that has become much more difficult with their growth in popularity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's say you've found a frame that's in your relative size range.  You've figured this out already by riding other bicycles and visiting bike shops and figuring out a rough range of acceptable seat tube and top tube lengths.  And you obsessively carry around a metric tape measure (probably not that hard in Europe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check when selecting a frame is its suitability for conversion.  For a fixed gear or singlespeed without chain tensioner that means it needs to have horizontal dropouts or track ends.  (Expensive options like an eccentric bottom bracket or sliding dropouts would work here as well, but those are rare to find on inexpensive frames.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing to consider is completeness relative to your parts supply.  A frame with fork is almost always better than a bare frame - finding compatible road forks, particularly threaded, can be annoying as there are a number of odd old sizes out there.  If you've got no parts to start with, a complete bike makes a good base point.  Singlespeeding a complete bike is relatively trivial - remove the chain, remove the shifters and derailleurs, and then shorten the chain and reinstall it over your preferred gear combination.  As you find additional parts you like you can replace them piecemeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as damage goes, the main stress points to look at are going to be where the rear dropouts meet the chainstay and seatstay and where the seatstays meet the seat tube.  But give it a quick gander at all the joints to look for any obvious cracks.  You'll also want to check just behind the headtube for any sign that the bike has been in a front end collision or roof rack crash.  In general, any kind of bunched-up paint is usually a sign of a bent tube and a compromised frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T16:55:03.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-06T05:24:34.107" Score="-2" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had some pretty unacceptable servicing on my bike. What is the worst story you could tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1186" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T06:25:57.430" Title="What is your worst customer service experience you had with your bike?" Tags="&lt;bike-culture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-03-06T06:19:18.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3136" CreationDate="2011-03-06T05:41:45.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bought a really expensive recumbent...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LBS did not sell recumbents, and they recommended me to go to the recumbent specialist 20km away. Lets call him RS, recumbent specialist. I dont own a car, so I had to borrow one for each trip there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pickup day. I travelled to the specialist, did a check on the bike. There I found a few problems: The chain was too short, and running very badly, because the frame was extended to the limit, and the chain was overstretched. The bike had a dynamo and the rear light was battery-driven, which is both unnecessary and against local laws. He didnt want to fix that on the spot, and I had to come back another day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pickup2 day. Go there again, chain was now okay, and the light had been replaced by a dynamo-driven one. RS tried to charge for the now correct rear light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First hundred km: The bike drove very wobbly, and I did not find the reason at first. Thought it was the fat tires, which were my choice, replaced those with smaller ones. Still wobbly. In the end I noticed, when driving, the chain sawed on the front brake. (Magura HS33) I did not notice earlier because the noise was dampened by the chain lining, and when standing the chain would not touch the brake. Also, the hydraulics of the front brake became lose, sending me across a busy road crossing (RS: happens). And all screws to the seat losened (RS: You're too heavy - I had informed him of my weight in advance). And the handlebar (RS: I dont tighten that much for safety reasons - yes, really, he said that). RS's comment on the brake being sawed on by the chain: Thats your problem, you chose this brake. Also, on the first visit, he refused to discuss in front of a witness, sending my friend out of his shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He offered to keep the bike until after the bike manufacturers summer break in &quot;two or four weeks&quot;, to start researching the matter after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem was, I had had a broken shoulder, and could not yet ride a normal bike for a while. I needed the recumbent! In the end I decided to repair the bike myself - I am a technician anyways. I did gave it back for two months in winter to fix a few more problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seat screws had to be tightened every 100km. Also, the washers were of the wrong size and damaged the frame paint. (rust incoming). Took a few more attempts to get RS to acknowledge that. After a year, he found out: Manufacturer had inadvertently packed the wrong screws. The new setup works fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the brake with a disc model. I wasn't hot for the rim brake anyway, just had thought about making the bike electric, which plan I scrapped for other reasons. It took a bit of time for RS to get a replacement for the sawed-on brake part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not have the right to just give the bike back: By German law, the vendor has to be given due time to repair each malady. Bad layout of the product is not a reason to return it, as long as it somewhat works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By now, warranty is over, and a few more things happened: &#xA;Sprocket broke. My replacement wheels probed very flimsy: Flat about every 2k km. Chain now starts to run very badly. Will have to replace the lining - or better yet, make a guide to avoid the lining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After two years of diligent care, the front hub is bust - it was the cheapest model available. Also, a spoke broke on the front wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But apart from that, I am happy with the bike. By now it is reliable, and fun to ride. Even with a healed shoulder, I stick to recumbents. Looking forward to another few thousand km this year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add the practical twist on the whole thing: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recumbents are technically very different from other bikes, and despite my knowledge of bikes I overlooked a few massive problems when first inspecting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not rely on something newly bought. If you have serious problems with the goods, you might be pressured into accepting bad service. If you have to rely, try to get the vendor to agree on receiving part of the payment late, after the goods are proven okay. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are technically inclined, buy a good frame with cheap components and and add quality yourself. It is more fun that way. Also more expensive, sadly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastEditorUserId="1165" LastEditDate="2011-03-06T06:25:57.430" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T06:25:57.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3140" CreationDate="2011-03-06T09:09:47.310" Score="18" ViewCount="41947" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend said me that if you have one part in a very bad condition like a cassette and then you put a new stuff like a new chain it will destroy the new stuff very quickly. A LBS said that I should change my derailleur's pulley wheels after I said that the derailleur has undergone at least 10Mm. Then again, another LBS said that I should change only the cassette and the old derailleur pulleys do not matter. Hence, I am very confused. Are there any &lt;em&gt;objective&lt;/em&gt; ways to state when one should change derailleur pulleys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diameters of the pulleys in the picture are about 3.6cm above and about 4.0cm below. They seem like the products &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike-components.de/products/language/en/info/p1370_Schaltraedchen-Paar-Deore-LX-9-fach.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Cannot find the specs of the original ones to compare, yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WfXk6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="157" LastEditDate="2011-03-06T19:56:47.613" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T06:13:11.763" Title="When to change derailleur pulleys?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3139" CreationDate="2011-03-06T10:51:42.810" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Worn derailleur pulleys (also known as &quot;jockey wheels&quot;) will not cause excessive wear on a chain because they aren't made of metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, though, the bushings inside will become worn and the outer teeth will wear down.  Park illustrates the latter progression in their article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul&quot;&gt;rear derailleur overhaul&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many things in bicycle maintenance the only objective metric for replacing something is that it no longer works satisfactorily.  Their failure mode might best be described as gradual rather than catastrophic.  If the pulley bushing doesn't have much slop in it and the teeth are still capable of guiding the chain effectively it's almost certainly fine. If the rest of the drivetrain is in new condition and there are still issues with shifting it's probably worth giving them a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the practical matter of replacing them goes, in my experience for the most part you need to find the manufacturer specification to track down compatible replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T10:51:42.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-07T07:31:27.913" Score="5" ViewCount="1591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've managed to break my bike frame, and after doing some reading, it is possible that I'm not pedaling correctly by putting too much into my power stroke (see the related question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2381/i-keep-breaking-my-road-frames-why/2538#2538&quot;&gt;I keep breaking my road frames - why?&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct technique to pedal, and what is the best way to get up to speed without causing too much stress to the bike frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T00:27:02.107" Title="Correct way to pedal" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3127" CreationDate="2011-03-07T09:02:03.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did not check the exact sizing but perhaps removing both front an d back wheels for transport could allow you to mount you bike to the regular bike rack. It could be an easier option than folding the tandem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T09:02:03.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2011-03-07T11:07:25.933" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: It sounds pretty unbelievable to me, but you could try pedalling with easier gears and spinning legs faster instead of applying lots of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-07T16:20:07.163" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T16:20:07.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3111" CreationDate="2011-03-07T13:55:42.570" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per an email from Brompton: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...the folding pedal needs a 24mm socket to remove unless it is a superlight bike, the titanium folding pedal bolt uses a 10mm hex. The right hand pedal uses a standard 15mm spanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T13:55:42.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3040" CreationDate="2011-03-07T14:54:13.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a Porteur Double Kickstand on my Surly LHT for touring. It is very stable and reasonably priced. Velo-Orange sells three different double-legged kickstands. I know that the Porteur and Plescher are quite popular and well thought of.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/chainguards-stay-protectors-kickstands.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/chainguards-stay-protectors-kickstands.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T14:54:13.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2011-03-07T16:37:01.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Spinning' is the idea that the momentum of the legs is maintained through using a slightly higher gear than you might be able to push it with. So you'll be trying to maintain an almost constant rhythm, you don't push explicitly - or if you do, you're matching it with a pull on the other side. By constant I mean both rev to rev, but almost within the revolution, pushing harder (even on both sides) is going to be accelerating and slowing down within each stroke - maintenance of speed and momentum is generally easier than creation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much power is a slightly bizarre, but completely credible idea: if you're pedalling 80 or 100 revs per minute, or even slightly higher, you should be trying to keep each rev the same. Pushing significantly harder for a few revs (or parts of revs) won't make a massive speed difference, but will hurt you and possibly your bike! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straight away, a quick observation is that these styles will only really work if you're clipped in (or maybe with straps). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T16:37:01.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2011-03-07T17:12:06.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are going to break you before you break a bike frame - with bad pedaling ! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T17:12:06.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3141" CreationDate="2011-03-07T19:33:58.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of theories about correct ways to pedal and different ways to do it, and different equipment setups that can either help you do it right or help you learn to do it right. But unless you're worried about small differences (like for competitive riding), it can be kept relatively simple. I'm sure we have some users who can talk more about specific pedaling techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal in an easier gear (but faster).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to use more of the pedal stroke.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't fight your own pedal power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't stand. Stay on the saddle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally try to keep everything smooth and even with no bouncing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easier gear thing should be fairly obvious. You can get the same power by pedaling faster in a lower gear. This should reduce the strain on the bottom bracket area. Don't power through a tough gear when starting up, downshift while slowing down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a tendency for some people to &quot;mash&quot; the pedal from a bit in front of the top of the stroke down to about the bottom. Often with a substantial side-to-side weight shift. That will always be the most powerful part of your pedal stroke, but try to also use the top of the stroke and the bottom. That kind of mashing seems likely to be harder on the frame. Try to push the pedal over the top and scrape it across the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as fighting your own pedal power: on the back side of the stroke, try to lift your foot a bit.  Don't lift so much that your foot actually comes off of a platform pedal (this is an advantage of clips or clipless systems). Most people leave a fair amount of weight on the back pedal and they're pushing against it with the front pedal. If you provide some lift to the rear foot you'll go faster and produce less total downward force on the bottom bracket. Especially if you're clipped in, it might feel like you're pulling the rear pedal up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standing puts your weight all on the bottom bracket and handlebars. The bike is designed to have a good portion of your weight on the saddle. Occasionally standing shouldn't be a problem, but doing it too often is a common bad habit and hard on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T19:33:58.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2705" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:13:29.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say that you need to throw your chain or cassette away if it gets that rusty. I do some work restoring bikes and have found that you should soak stuff in Liquid Wrench maybe 20 minutes to an hour. Then take steel wool and scrape the rust off (fine steel wool works best). Works wonders. Then dry and lubricate with oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1192" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T23:13:29.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-08T18:42:41.743" Score="5" ViewCount="12897" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what type of solvent to use to clean a derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1196" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T21:56:04.723" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T22:22:33.220" Title="What to use to clean a derailleur?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2011-03-08T20:43:13.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are you trying to clean off it? If you're thinking solvents I assume it's chain grease rather than mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to use a water-based degreaser like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/accessories/lube/simple/green-degreaser/PRD_352370_131crx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;simple green&lt;/a&gt; and an old toothbrush. If it's particularly bad I'll take it off the bike and dismantle it. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-139.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread on BicycleTutor&lt;/a&gt; has much more detail on how you go about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quicker and less effective approach is to squirt some penetrating oil like WD40 on to loosen the grease then wipe it off. That will get you running again in a hurry but it's not good for the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally people have used organic solvents like kerosene but they're toxic and degreaser is just as effective. Petrol is the worst, it contains contact poisons as well as having poisonous vapour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T23:03:08.710" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T23:03:08.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-03-08T22:13:36.370" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Crank, aka chainset, crankset&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We turn the pedals and cranks with our legs. Pedals screw into threads at the end of the crankarms. The cranks themselves are, in turn, attached to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2759#2759&quot;&gt;bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt;. Gearing is controlled by the size of the front chainring(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cranks have the following characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Length: Common commercial cranks are typically in lengths of 165mm to 180mm in 2.5mm increments. 170, 172.5, and 175mm are the most common lengths. Cranks are generally sized by rider height or leg length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainrings: Cranks can accommodate 1 to 3 chainrings. The chainrings control the gearing available to the bicycle. 1x systems with a single front chainring (pronounced &quot;one-by&quot;) are common on mountain bikes and gravel bikes. They frequently have teeth specially designed to retain the chain (e.g. narrow-wide chainring). Other technology, such as a clutch rear derailleur and possibly a chain guide, aids chain retention also. 2x systems are common on road bikes, and have pins and ramps to guide the chain to the large ring. Triple chainrings were once standard on MTBs. They may be more common on older touring bikes also. Front derailleurs are typically specific to triple or double chainrings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bolt circle diameter: determines what sizes of chainring can attach to the crankset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainring attachment: Many current cranksets have 5 or 4 arms, and chainrings are bolted to the arms. Some cranksets are direct mount, where the chainring(s) are integrated with the arms, and the assembly fits to a (usually) splined interface around the arms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/2759#2759&quot;&gt;Bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt; attachment or axle type: Cranksets may be designed to mate to a specific bottom bracket, in the case of square tapered, older Shimano Hollowtech, or ISIS cranksets. Alternatively, cranksets may be designed around a specific axle type. For example, Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo use 22 to 25mm diameter axles. Some third party cranksets have 30mm axles. These cranksets can fit any bottom bracket compatible with their axle diameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainline: the distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the chainrings or chainring. Typically, road double cranksets have a 43.5mm chainline. MTB cranksets have 50mm. The advent of disc brakes on road and gravel bikes has led to some cranksets with 45mm chainlines. Front derailleurs are designed for optimal performance on a specific chain line. Mixing a road front derailleur with a 45mm chainline crankset may work, but it may not be optimal. Mixing a road derailleur with a 50mm chainline is very unlikely to work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Miscellaneous: Cranks are typically made of aluminum. Less commonly, carbon fiber or titanium cranks exist. Aluminum cranksets are usually finished in silver or black, and higher end ones may have a polished finish. It is possible to paint a crankset, or to anodize aluminum or titanium cranksets for aesthetics. Some cranksets have power meters bonded to their arms, or they can accept chainring spiders with power meters integrated there. Cranksets can also connect to motors attached around the bottom bracket and/or to gearboxes mounted in the bottom bracket area.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has more information on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_cn-z.html#crank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cranks&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://flic.kr/p/nyQzv4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ksa9M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ksa9M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank arms&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="38270" LastEditDate="2019-12-06T22:58:44.420" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T22:58:44.420" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-08T22:13:36.370" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2011-03-09T08:37:34.610" Score="6" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Step 1&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the derailleur pulleys by holding the blade of your screwdriver against the sides of the pulleys and turning the crank. You can do this with the wheel in the dropouts, or with the wheel removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brush the dirt off of your derailleur using a combination of brushes with bristles of varying length and stiffness, like the ones in the Finish Line Easy-Pro Brush Set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 3&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Degrease the derailleur using Finish Line Speed Clean, a powerful degreaser that dries almost instantly. You won’t have to wait before applying lube, or worry that the lube will be broken down by excess degreaser that didn’t dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also a good time to go over the pulleys again. First spray down the jockey pulley with Speed Clean while turning the crank, then take your rag, hold it between your thumb and forefinger, and pinch the pulley while continuing to turn the crank. Any dirt that didn’t come off on the screwdriver blade will come off on the rag. Repeat with the bottom pulley. This is most effective if the pulley is still moist with degreaser when you run it through the rag. Because Speed Clean dries so quickly, ensure this by spraying down only one pulley at a time, so that the bottom pulley doesn’t dry before you’re done with the jockey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 4&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricate the derailleur by first spraying it down with Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube, then injecting Extreme Fluoro, a fully fluorinated grease, into all points of friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1199" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T23:31:34.483" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T23:31:34.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2011-03-09T12:49:39.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing I've used is called &quot;De-Solv-it&quot;, you can pick it up at most hardware stores.  It's almost magical how well it works, just spray it on and let it sit for a minute or two.  You may have to brush the heavy stuff but the grease just melts away.  It also claims to be biodegradable.  Here it is on Amazon: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BQWVTQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Desolv-Citrus-Solution-12-oz/dp/B000BQWVTQ&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T12:49:39.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3040" CreationDate="2011-03-09T13:09:31.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one of the older Pletscher/Esge stands fitted near the rear wheel hub. Using the optional shoe at the end of the stand it is extremely stable. On the way back from a cycling holiday I had my fully loaded bike leaning on the stand in a train while it was traveling at speed over lots of points, the bike never even moved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another time I had the bike parked on the side of the road, within a few inches of trucks moving past at 80-100km/h and even then it never moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those stands are extremely stable, can't recommend them enough. Just make sure the stand touches the ground outside your center of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1030" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T13:09:31.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3106" CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:13:43.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the thing.  It's going to be difficult to beat the price of a pre-manufactured bike, depending on where you live.  Here in NYC, you can scrounge a complete bike worth having for maybe $100-150, then get a rear fixed wheel + cog + lockring for $50-100ish.  If the cables and brake pads are trashed, you'll have to replace them, and possibly service the BB and headset.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can get one of the bikesdirect bikes for $280 shipped, with cartridge everything.  If you want to build a bike for the experience (I highly recommend this, btw) it's worth it, but the odds of you saving more than $100 are low.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1204" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T15:13:43.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2011-03-09T16:00:54.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two of these - one for an iPhone 4 the other for a Galaxy S (just fits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buybits.com/product/8642.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.buybits.com/product/8642.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never had any issues with them both. It is handy to be able to remove and walk about with it without it getting wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1207" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T16:00:54.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-09T22:44:55.937" Score="7" ViewCount="18101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I already have the cable cable kind with the combination lock.  It just seems cheap and easy to break into.  Is that sufficient or are the U shaped ones better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2013-07-29T18:24:05.160" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T18:24:05.160" Title="What's the most secure type of bike lock that costs less than $30?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3164" CreationDate="2011-03-09T23:17:31.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're much better off with a D lock (U lock) because they're harder to remove without the key. A cable lock can be cut through with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hyperclaw.com/cutters.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cheap tool&lt;/a&gt; that's easily carried in a pocket. Cheap D locks are pretty similar to each other, but avoid the cylindrical key types (if you can still find them) because instructions on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LahDQ2ZQ3e0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to pick&lt;/a&gt; those quickly are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com.au/search?q=pick+kryptonite+lock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;all over the internet&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comment below about smaller locks being more secure is correct, but with the proviso &quot;if used correctly&quot;. A smaller lock is often harder to use correctly. The larger locks make it easy to lock the rear wheel + frame to a poorly located pole or fence, so are often more secure in a specific situation because they can lock your bike correctly where a smaller lock cannot. I use a small D lock (ABUS Granit) but have locking QR skewers (pitlocks) so don't need to lock my wheels separately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing your location a specific recommendation is not possible - I would use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.humanpowered.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my LBS&lt;/a&gt; but if you're not in Melbourne they might not be the best choice. I used google and found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelockshops.com/groupbikelocksulocks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this online site&lt;/a&gt; which seems to have a reasonable selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T23:59:27.717" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T23:59:27.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3164" CreationDate="2011-03-10T00:10:29.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I must say that there is no such thing.  Sometimes you can find a U-lock used on Craigslist or similar websites and you might get a better deal.  Otherwise, $30 is below bottom-of-the-ladder for U-locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And think about it.  What are you paying for with that 30-50-even $90?  It's a one-installment insurance policy on your bicycle.  I would suggest that you lay down some real money and get a good lock.  If you don't, you can either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never take your bike anywhere that won't allow you to bring it inside with you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plan on replacing your bike frequently and encouraging the bike thieves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My frivolous answer:  Really.  Maybe you shouldn't spend a bunch of money on a bike lock.  If you get a cheap lock, the bike thieves will have no reason to learn how to open the more expensive type which will leave my bicycle all the safer!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike locks cost real dough because they are designed to stand up to real abuse.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once had a job where I routinely went around a park with a pair of huge bolt cutters, removing the bike locks (and sometimes bikes) that were abandoned there.  The cheap locks are a hellva lot easier to cut off of railings than the beefy OnGuard types.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do get what you pay for, here, at least in the range of $0-50.  Cheap locks are almost not worth buying.  A $50 U-lock will stand up to several tries with a pair of bolt cutters that have three-foot levers attached to the handles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T00:10:29.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3164" CreationDate="2011-03-10T00:13:22.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I watched Youtube videos of people breaking various locks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cable - using manual clippers that you can easily carry inside a jacket: snip the cable in one snip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavy chain (e.g. as used for locking mopeds) - using cutters with 5-foot-long handles: much hopping and heaving with whole body weight, takes about 20 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;U-lock - using an angle grinder (a kind of power tool, perhaps with diamond cutting surface): takes 5 seconds, and a power source (I don't know if you can get battery-operated ones)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: a cable will [only] stop 'casual' thieves who don't carry a tool with them; and would be no deterrent to a regular/professional thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T01:30:50.083" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T01:30:50.083" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3164" CreationDate="2011-03-10T02:28:31.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a demonstration where they compared U/D-locks and cable-locks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None resisted the cable cutter, but the thicker the lock was, independent from the type of lock, the bigger the cable cutter had to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: Use a very thick lock. Don't look at the type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1063" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T02:28:31.380" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3164" CreationDate="2011-03-10T04:40:37.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smaller locks are harder to break than big locks - if you know there is a rack that is thin enough to lock the frame to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a cable/chain as well gives you more options - a chain is harder to snip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fTMni.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;This is about $30 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two locks are always better than one - even if it just causes the thief to look at the next bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T04:40:37.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-10T17:44:48.217" Score="4" ViewCount="3476" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Main Question:&lt;/strong&gt; What should one look for on a sport hybrid if the primary use will be commuting and riding around 10 - 20 miles a day for exercise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motivation:&lt;/strong&gt;  I was a resident of Chicago (which was absolutely beautiful for biking along the shore and such) and I had a 1977 Trek road bike that I loved.  Now I live around the New Orleans area and the roads are absolutely terrible to bike on; I have replaced tires, tubes, and rim tape a number of times, but it never quite works; it's getting to the point where I'm worried about going farther distances because I'd be stuck there if my tube popped (and this has, in fact, happened a few times...).  I went to my LBS and they told me that I should think about getting a sport hybrid --- and if this term is not standard, it seems like a hybrid which doesn't have shocks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reluctant to buy one because I don't know all that much about bikes yet and I'm not sure what to look for in this type of bike; moreover, I am used to drop handlebars which are not standard in sport hybrids.  Does anyone have any experience with these kinds of bikes or from going from a road bike to a sport hybrid?  Are these kinds of bikes good for commuting to work ( &amp;lt; 5 miles) and for longer exercise rides (10 - 20 miles), or would a different bicycle be more fitted for these purposes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="911" LastEditorUserId="911" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T18:02:19.357" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T03:49:24.470" Title="Sport Hybrids For Commuting and Exercise?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3170" CreationDate="2011-03-10T19:31:12.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sports hybrid is named for being a hybrid of a mountain and a road bike. One advantage of a hybrid is the upright cycling style where your face is pointed more straight ahead rather than looking up with drops. This can also be achieved with drop handlebars by raising them until they are at a level or slightly higher than the seat. This is easier to do with older bikes which no not have the threadless headsets. A 5-mile commute would be fine on this type of bike but I think that a 20-mile ride would begin to suck pretty quickly since you can really move your hands around. A second advantage is that the hybrid's relatively thicker tires will allow you more advantages than traditional 700c 'skinny' road tires. They can handle gravel and potholes and pretty much anything else that you might encounter on a city street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, to me the biggest disadvantage of the hybrid is that it is a compromise from two 'focused' efforts to be something that by definition is unfocused but tries to be everything to everybody and achieves being nothing. Technically, I think the lack of hand placement is the biggest impediment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have your Trek, I might recommend raising the handlebars a bit and mounting the fattest Schwalbe tires you can on it. They are bombproof and comfy though they are heavy. Stick some fenders on it and you are good for 4-season riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think both Surly and Civia make some very nice and reasonably affordable (this is always in the eye of the beholder) bikes that would suit this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T19:31:12.477" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3170" CreationDate="2011-03-11T00:30:03.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're dealing with rough roads, a bike with slightly wider tires will be more comfortable, less likely to throw you with small obstacles/ruts, and probably have a wider selection of puncture-resistant tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most road bikes are designed for very narrow tires and can't accomodate anything much wider. Narrow tires on rough roads are more likely to get caught on small ruts (etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always put the widest puncture resistant tires possible on your old road bike (maybe also a tire liner, puncture resistant tubes, etc) and pack a decent repair kit (2 tire levers, 1 tube, a few patches) into a seat bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the definition of a &quot;sport hybrid&quot; is fairly flexible (vague, inconsistent).  &quot;Hybrid&quot; almost always means a bike with flat handlebars (like a mountain bike), but with larger thin wheels like a typical road bike. A &quot;sport&quot; hybrid is one that's a little more geared for speed than comfort (possibly even the same as a &quot;flat bar road bike&quot;), so maybe has you leaned a bit more forward and has some higher end components and probably no suspension stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a less than 5 mile commute on relatively flat ground, any bike you like will do, as long as it's capable of carrying whatever you want to carry and ride comfortably over the roads. For your longer ride you're more likely to want the drop handlebars, mostly to have more positions for your hands, but also to go faster. You can add extensions or replace the bars on a flat-bar bike to get more hand positions, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the somewhat longer rides, if you want to be able to go relatively fast and you have to deal with bad roads, I'd look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sport hybrids&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclocross bikes (made for racing on mixed trails/mud/pavement)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touring bikes (road bike designed for long trips in possibly terrible conditions. wide tires, tough frame)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Commuter&quot; bikes (hybrids optimized for commutes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any number of more basic less specifically named &quot;flat handlebar road bikes&quot; or &quot;hybrids&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all of those, you're likely to want to replace the stock tires with something more puncture resistant (for the glass you don't see), and maybe have those be wider tires, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description of liking drop handlebars, I'm thinking a cyclocross bike might be the best option. Cyclocross frames tend to be very similar to road frames, but can handle wider tires. There's other less important differences that could be asked in another question. Probably won't come with handlebars as low as many modern road bikes, but that is likely to be fixable. The cheaper cyclocross bikes often have the stuff to make it easy to mount a rack and/or fenders, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T00:30:03.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2184" CreationDate="2011-03-11T04:18:09.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/removal-of-cranks-with-damaged-threads-square-type-only&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/removal-of-cranks-with-damaged-threads-square-type-only&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/way_5865105_bicycle-crank-removal-stripped-threads.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/way_5865105_bicycle-crank-removal-stripped-threads.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycle Research Crank Arm Thread Chaser, TC-8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can try a tool called the &amp;quot;Var #932&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1216" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-11-03T08:57:33.437" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T08:57:33.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3175" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-11T18:54:23.583" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-11T18:54:23.583" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T18:54:23.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3176" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-11T18:54:23.583" Score="0" Body="Repairing, maintaining, or replacing the chain on your bike that connects the front of the drivetrain (cranks, chainrings) to the back (cogs, cassette)." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:07:01.223" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:07:01.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3177" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-11T18:55:12.460" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-11T18:55:12.460" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T18:55:12.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3178" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-11T18:55:12.460" Score="0" Body="Repairs, maintenance, mechanical issues, or drivetrain parts. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:27:49.003" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:27:49.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3179" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-11T18:57:02.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This post on the Stack Exchange blog may be helpful when posting these questions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/&quot;&gt;Q&amp;amp;A is Hard, Let’s Go Shopping!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a punji-trap tag - questions tagged so are very likely to be closed as off-topic.  SE is all about building long-term useful answers to practical questions, and product recommendations are considered off-topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &quot;should I buy a 2011 canyoneero CX or a 2012 spasherlised hardtail?&quot; is really only useful to a select few people in the position of choosing from exactly these two models. Admittedly, some of the points may carry over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another OT question is &quot;what bike light should I buy?&quot;  because this will vary a lot on the specific user's need, location, and budget.  Additionally models tend to go away after a couple years and get replaced by the next thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, these questions might be generic-ified as &quot;What features/differences would make me choose a CX bike vs a hard tail MTB?&quot; and &quot;What features are most important when looking for a front light for night time road commuting after dark?&quot;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these rewritten questions may use specific products as examples, but specific products aren't going to answer the question directly.  For the Light question &quot;warning that the light's battery is running low&quot; is the answer, and a supporting point might be &quot;cheap Chinese lights lack this feature&quot; and &quot;the dogeye 123 gives 1 hour warning which is enough for the entire commute home.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T17:15:31.307" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T17:15:31.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3180" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-11T18:57:02.740" Score="0" Body="If your question fits this tag, it's probably considered Off Topic for bicycles.SE. Questions that ask to compare two brands or pricings will end up being closed. Try and word your question as generic rather than specific." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T17:15:22.217" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T17:15:22.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3181" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-11T18:58:00.087" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-11T18:58:00.087" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T18:58:00.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3182" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-11T18:58:00.087" Score="0" Body="The big round things your bike rolls on. Rims, spokes, hubs, etc. If it's all about the rubber part, &quot;tire&quot; tag is better." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:17:31.650" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:17:31.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2011-03-12T11:02:25.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the main adavantages is reducing flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's such a hassle converting rims to tubeless. I just converted mine with this kit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sincamaras.com/INGLES/indexenglish.HTM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sincamaras.com/INGLES/indexenglish.HTM&lt;/a&gt;. I know there are several other on the market but my local bike shop recommended me this one. I decided to install it because in my area, this winter, a lot of vegetation has been cut around the trails and everyone is having lots of flats due to the spikes on the ground. With the sealant liquid I hope to hugely reduce the number of flats I got last months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9th July 2012 update: After almost a year and a half with this system I can say I just got one flat and it didn't affect my ride, I found it later at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important advantage of removing the tubes is making wheels lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastEditorUserId="871" LastEditDate="2012-07-09T07:24:30.300" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T07:24:30.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3188" CreationDate="2011-03-13T11:15:09.793" Score="6" ViewCount="1339" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road season is about to start here and I think that it is time I stopped using my cotton singlets as an undershirt and start using something more specific for cycling (and racing in particular).  What is the best material for me to get? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T20:55:33.560" Title="What should I look for in a cycling undershirt for warm weather?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3184" CreationDate="2011-03-13T17:01:20.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear something like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/gore-bike-wear-baselayer-shirt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gore Bike Wear Baselayer Shirt&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T8gzw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;although I'm fairly sure I didn't pay anywhere near £30 for it. But I have had it for a few years now and it may be a completely inferior model to the one shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like it because it acts as a wicking layer and a windproof layer, getting rid of my sweat and stopping the lovely subarctic winds which whistle down from the West Pennine Moors from making it chill next to my skin (and that's in the summer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="79" LastEditDate="2011-03-13T17:09:57.147" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T17:09:57.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3184" CreationDate="2011-03-13T18:24:12.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wicking polyester t-shirt eg. either &lt;a href=&quot;http://coolmax.invista.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;coolmax&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.underarmour.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;underarmour&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They aren't cheap but you can normally find some online retailer (especially in the US) doing a deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit. apparently I'm a cheapskate! Expect to pay $10-15  for a short sleeve shirt. If you buy these brand names they will lost for many years. Only draw back is that the stuff does get smelly. Modern low temperature detergents don't kill the bugs - so if you are an extra smelly cyclist you have to soak them in bleach / bicarb / special running gear smell-killer occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-03-13T23:10:45.720" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T23:10:45.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3184" CreationDate="2011-03-13T20:09:26.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take a look at the &lt;em&gt;fabric care&lt;/em&gt; labels on these base layer products, it often states that the fabric is 100% polyester and sometimes a blend of polyester and spandex. However, for cycling (sports) gear the material is technically called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microfiber#Clothing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;microfiber&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/a&gt; &quot;The most common types of microfibers are made from polyesters.&quot; The key benefit of microfibers is that the material wicks moisture (sweat) away from the body, keeping the wearer cool and dry. (Unlike cotton which will keep you wet and clammy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When selecting, I look for labels specifying a &lt;em&gt;base layer&lt;/em&gt; for &lt;em&gt;warm weather&lt;/em&gt;. After that, for my personal tastes, I want the fabric to be soft, non-itchy, and form fitting. At this point I currently have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craft-usa.com/cra_shop_base.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Craft&lt;/a&gt; and Gore products for cycling since they meet my criteria. There are other brands of base layers, for example Nike calls it's base layer fabrics, &quot;Dry-FIT&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to a fabric library on &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycleapparel.com/BaseFabric.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BicycleApparel.com&lt;/a&gt;. As you can see there are quite a few proprietary names for polyester!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T20:09:26.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3184" CreationDate="2011-03-13T20:13:06.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under Armour makes a line of Heat Gear shirts that are quite good in the summer; they're so light, they feel almost like you're wearing nothing at all. (I saw two sorts on the racks, and the shirts labeled &quot;green&quot; feel like they're made of a softer and more comfortable fabric. (I got them in yellow.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're polyester, so they wick well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short-sleeve shirts are inexpensive; the mens' tee-shirts go for about $25. The ladies' shirts go for significantly more, my wife just got the mens' shirts and they're fine for her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T20:13:06.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-14T04:55:48.783" Score="3" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in taking a trip to Europe (although perhaps this question can apply to other areas of the world) and do some bike racing at a really amateur level like the equivalent of Cat 4 or Cat 3 in the US.  Mainly interested in road races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on where I can find information on these types of races if they exist?  Also any tips on administrative details of racing as a foreigner are appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1230" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T18:43:31.177" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T16:53:31.060" Title="Amateur Bicycle Racing outside of the US" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;travelling&gt;&lt;europe&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3184" CreationDate="2011-03-14T09:12:20.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favourite base layers are Merino wool, in particular from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rapha.cc/merino-base-layers&quot;&gt;Rapha&lt;/a&gt;. They are seriously not cheap, but they are definitely worth it. Very warm in winter with the long sleeve, but surprisingly cooling in the summer with the short/no sleeve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T09:12:20.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2011-03-14T11:13:31.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://runkeeper.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RunKeeper Pro&lt;/a&gt;; from January it's free for Android; here is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://market.android.com/details?id=com.fitnesskeeper.runkeeper.pro&amp;amp;feature=search_result&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;description&lt;/a&gt; in Android Market.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not only for cycling, but you can choose the activity type to be tracked by GPS, define custom routes and use audio coaching to know your distance, speed, time; then you can see online, in your personal account, a detailed report and a map with your path; if you want, you can also share those details with friends, and create or attend races.&#xA;You can also monitor your heart rate, if using along with  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.heartratemonitorsusa.com/polar-wearlink-plus-bluetooth.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Polar WearLink®+ transmitter with Bluetooth®&lt;/a&gt; for the Android, but I didn't try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1231" LastEditorUserId="1231" LastEditDate="2011-03-14T19:37:09.920" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T19:37:09.920" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-14T11:13:31.090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3189" CreationDate="2011-03-14T12:03:28.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are coming to the Uk then the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.britishcycling.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;British Cycling&lt;/a&gt; website is probably the place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T12:03:28.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3184" CreationDate="2011-03-14T20:55:33.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Texas so this undershirt concept confuses me.  Why would you wear more than 1 shirt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pearl Izumi Quest Sleeveless Jersey is my favorite on a hot day.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pearlizumi.com/publish/content/pi_2010/us/en/index/products/men/ride/apparel/jerseys.-productCode-11121108.html#3DP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pearlizumi.com/publish/content/pi_2010/us/en/index/products/men/ride/apparel/jerseys.-productCode-11121108.html#3DP&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T20:55:33.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2932" CreationDate="2011-03-15T11:27:57.327" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The exact model is Start Shosse from Kharkiv Bicycle factory (ХВЗ Старт-шоссе) &lt;a href=&quot;http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%A5%D0%B0%D1%80%D1%8C%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%B2%D1%81%D0%BA%D0%B8%D0%B9_%D0%B2%D0%B5%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%B7%D0%B0%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B4&quot;&gt;Wikipedia link about factory&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular bike was a dream of many soviet youngsters, but in reality it is not anything special, as Soviet Olympic team rode on Colnago bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite popular trend here (in Latvia, ex USSR member country) to make a fixed gear bike from that cheap frame. Other parts are not of very good quality and sometimes it is very hard to find fitting spares from other manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no special reason to keep that frame, as other vintage frames could be a better choice, but there is nothing wrong with it either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T10:58:25.247" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T10:58:25.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3189" CreationDate="2011-03-15T14:40:23.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking the website of the national cycling federation in your country of interest should point you in the right direction in terms of races. Finding a local club should help you immensely as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that in most places you can race with either a local license or an international (UCI) license. Depending on where you live and where you're planning to race, one of those options may be considerably cheaper than the other (North American licenses tend to be cheaper than those in western Europe, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T14:40:23.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:57:00.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com/imapmy/android/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iMapMyRide&lt;/a&gt; is great. It records and uploads all your route data to the iMapMyRide web site. Once uploaded you can view the route on a Google map, see the total distance travelled, see a chart of the elevation plus the total gain, add notes, log the workout and share the route with others. I really can't recommend it enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T20:57:00.250" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-15T20:57:00.250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3198" CreationDate="2011-03-15T21:41:41.570" Score="19" ViewCount="29721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty soon, I plan to replace the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2759#2759&quot;&gt;bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt; on my early 90's Sakae Litage road bike.  It takes a standard, English-threaded bottom bracket.  Right now I think it contains loose &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2758#2758&quot;&gt;bearings&lt;/a&gt;--I was planning to replace it with a decent-quality cartidge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a lot of external bottom brackets when I am looking at my &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/254#254&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt;'s website.  I have replaced many sets of loose BB bearings and several cartridge BB's.  I know nothing about these external things.  Why do there seem to be more of them for sale than cartridge bottom brackets?  Do they have larger, longer-lasting bearings?  Would it benefit me to consider one as opposed to the cartidge BB's that I have been using recently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride pretty seriously for fun, commuting, and errands... I built this bike specifically for doing really hilly weekend rides.  But I'm not a racer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curious.  Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T12:42:28.277" Title="What are the benefits of external bottom brackets?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3197" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:45:18.223" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;External bottom brackets allow you to have both large bearings and a large, hollow bottom bracket spindle.  A large hollow spindle can be designed to be as stiff as a small solid spindle for less weight.  Smaller bearings reduce the longevity of a bottom bracket, so the typical bottom bracket design allows a narrow range of suitable spindle sizes and bearing sizes - to get the weight savings from a larger spindle you need to sacrifice durability.  Moving the bearings to the outside effectively removes this tradeoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an additional performance factor in situations where high stiffness is required in that the distance between the cranks and the bearings is reduced, lessening the torque on the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For commuting, errands, recreational riding and other &quot;normal&quot; purposes a cartridge bottom bracket is almost always going to be more than sufficient.  If you are particularly concerned about durability, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/01/27/skf-bottom-brackets-world-exclusive/&quot;&gt;SKF bottom brackets&lt;/a&gt; are engineered for 10 years / 100,000km of riding, but for the price a $25 Shimano cartridge will usually last what feels like forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T22:45:18.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3197" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:48:30.983" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main benefit is weight - because the axle is now a pipe it gains strength from diameter and hence can use less metal. Bicycle frames are made of tubing rather than solid rod for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One disadvantage is that the balls in the bearings have to be smaller because there's less space to fit them in, so all things being equal they will wear out faster. But things are not equal, and what's made it practical to have external bottom brackets is improved metallurgy and precision manufacturing. So an external BB should last as long as a similarly priced internal one. (edit) And as lantius pointed out in the comments, the balls in an external BB will be close to the same size as the ones in a cartridge BB anyway, the &quot;smaller&quot; comment is mostly relevant to a comparison with open bottom brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano had problems with the seals in their external bottom brackets that was causing a lot of premature failure but I believe those have been solved now. We've stopped seeing them coming in for early replacement, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need to change your cranks to fit an external bottom bracket. Rather than a square taper external BB's all use a splined system. Which is an improvement over the square taper but there are several types. Make sure you can get a BB to match whatever cranks you buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have also changed the sizing, from memory there are only a couple of lengths of external BB available rather than 10 or more. This may mean that you end up with your chainrings slightly offset from their current positions, but with a derailleur system that shouldn't be a problem. On a singlespeed it will give you a bent chainline which is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I don't see the point in upgrading an existing bike. If you needed new cranks and were focussed on weight it might make sense, but it's an expensive risk (things might not work the first time) for a very small gain. For the same price you could get a Phil Wood BB that will last forever, or save money by buying cheap cartridge BB's as you need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T03:22:34.347" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T03:22:34.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3201" CreationDate="2011-03-16T01:44:13.543" Score="7" ViewCount="9204" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a follow-up to &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1916/what-should-i-look-for-in-a-good-pair-of-cycling-shorts&quot;&gt;What should I look for in a good pair of cycling shorts?&lt;/a&gt;,&quot; how long should I expect a good pair of cycling shorts (regular or bib) last? I think that an estimate in hours or km would be more useful than months or years(?). Is there an objective way to know when I should replace a worn out pair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T20:51:00.493" Title="How long should cycling shorts last?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3200" CreationDate="2011-03-16T02:06:21.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For shorts that I commute in every weekday I spend a little over an hour a day in them (100km/week). Those should last 3 months to a year when laundered weekly. Cheaper ones tend to last 3-6 months, better ones closer to a year. I've had some shocking experiences with branded cheap shorts lasting a month, and other times apparently identical shorts will last a year. I regard anything over 6 months as a win. But I buy commuting shorts out of the sale bins so my selection is limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't trained on an upright for some years, but when I used to I'd spend a bit more and get better ones, focussing mostly on the chamois. A thicker, well shaped chamois normallys comes with shorts that will outlast the chamois so I buy on that. I still only get 6 months out of the shorts, but I ride 6-12 hours a week in them and at least rinse them after every ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T02:06:21.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3203" CreationDate="2011-03-16T10:27:38.030" Score="14" ViewCount="5921" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to do some (1-2 hours) base training rides in the morning before work. Should I eat something before the ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my knowledge, there should be enough glycogen in muscles to power me. Are there any other considerations? What if I increased load to strength and interval training?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T12:14:36.523" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T17:21:23.380" Title="Should I eat breakfast before or after morning ride?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2011-03-16T12:51:12.577" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that is question can at least be partially answered by whether or not you can tolerate food in your stomach.  While having a big heavy meal would probably be bad, having something in there, plus doing some refueling along the ride will help you keep from bonking and also make sure you are not running on a deficit for the rest of your day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that if I have a light breakfast and then add to that energy gels about every 45 minutes I am pretty good.  My riding buddy, on the other hand, eats a McDonalds McMuffin and hash browns which would make an explosive exit if they were in my stomach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T12:51:12.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2011-03-16T13:01:38.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eating shouldn't be an either/or activity, but you're right to question the items and the timings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be looking for something slow release before - so the fats in a muffin combined with the slow release carbs in the dough are cunning (my favourite is a jam sandwich - fast release fructose from the jam, inhibited a little by the fat in the butter, with the slow release from the bread kicking in later). It's the morning, so maybe a milky, sugary coffee could be in order! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then remember to refuel during, quick release, so gels or powder in your water bottle are great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't overlook the recovery mixture. Your body is in heavy replenishment mode for 20-30 minutes after a workout and will be looking for proteins to help muscle recovery as well as new sugars to boost the blood sugar for the day ahead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interval training will strain the body more than long, slow, distance, so you'll definitely want to look at the refuelling strategies (you can buy specific post-exercise energy drinks). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T13:01:38.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3200" CreationDate="2011-03-16T15:20:17.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eventually, the material will thin out and holes will start to appear. Objectively, if people can see your junk, then it's time to retire the shorts (or, in colder climates, restrict them to winter-only duty under tights). The chamois will deteriorate over time as well, so if a pair of shorts isn't as comfortable as it once was, it's about time to throw it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as durability, I'd be very disappointed in any set of shorts that didn't last at &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt; 5000 km. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another note on care and feeding--make sure that the shorts never rub against anything abrasive (seat bag, velcro bits hanging off jacket, etc.) while you ride, as the material can wear through in an awful hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T15:20:17.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3200" CreationDate="2011-03-16T16:01:08.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only worn out 3 or 4 pairs of regular shorts in the last 18 years, so it's possible to make them last.  I try to buy high quality pairs and relegate the older ones for use on the trainer.  Proper care (gentle cold water wash, hang dry) is important to keep them from wearing out too soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shorts develop large holes, lose their stretch or the stitching starts to come undone, then it's time to say goodbye.  Also watch out for the chamois bunching up or getting rough in places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T16:01:08.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3209" CreationDate="2011-03-16T16:59:20.570" Score="4" ViewCount="2273" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is still a lot of salt on the roads in Ottawa, Canada, but I am thinking about starting to use my road bike instead of my mountain bike because the snow is mostly gone.  (At least temporarily).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mountain bike is aluminum so I have not been worried about it rusting/disappearing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My road bike that I want to start riding is made of steel so I am more concerned.  What can I do to protect it from wet salty roads?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My steel road bike currently has a good paint job with few to no chips.  I was thinking before I take it out the first time I might spray some greese onto a rag and give it a quick wipe down.  I am not sure if this will be effective or a good idea so I would appreciate any feedback possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I begin riding my steel bike now while the roads are still wet and salty or should I wait until summer and/or get a temporary winter/spring bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I am going to ride my steel bike what can I do to protect it from the wet salty streets?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T17:10:19.553" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T13:45:43.127" Title="Protecting steel bike from salty roads" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;salt&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3208" CreationDate="2011-03-16T17:09:39.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel will rust, given time. Riding a nice bike on salty roads &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; scratch it up, but you can minimize that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame exterior:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiping a steel bike down with a greasy rag as a preventative measure certainly won't hurt, and it may help (particularly if you already have any scratches in the paint). I think you'd be better off concentrating on cleaning it frequently. If you can, clean the bike at least somewhat after each ride, concentrating on removing salt and sand from the drivetrain. I just let my bikes air-dry, but patting them dry when you're done makes sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of good cleaning advice in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2705/how-should-i-clean-salt-out-during-winters/2706#2706&quot;&gt;this question's currently accepted answer&lt;/a&gt;, so I won't repeat it, but the important bit is to &lt;em&gt;get rid of salty water as quickly as possible.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame interior:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protecting the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of a frame seems to come down to mostly preventative measures. Essentially, you can oil the inside of the frame, seal it off completely, or both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandsmachine.com/guide_w.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;frame saver sprays&lt;/a&gt; you can get, and I've heard of people using either fish oil or linseed oil to coat the inside. (Food-grade linseed oil, also known as flaxseed oil, can spoil if not refrigerated, and I suspect fish oil can as well, so I'd be wary or using either.) Sealing it off can cause condensation to evaporate much more slowly, so I'd avoid doing that in very humid climates. In most areas, this probably isn't a concern unless you live by the sea or ride through torrential downpours regularly; salty water, like you'd pick up from wet, salted roads is much more of a problem anyway. I don't live in a particularly humid area, so I've never worried about the insides of my steel frames. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, a combination of preventative care coupled with frequent cleaning will keep your bike happy in the winter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T05:26:59.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3202" CreationDate="2011-03-16T17:21:23.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're training your muscles - for strength or endurance, I would eat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are training your energy transport and metabolism then there is a lot to be said for not eating. Training on an empty stomach will force your body to burn fat earlier. By spending longer burning fat your body will adapt to this mode and increase its efficiency at doing this, so that your endurance past your stored-glycogen limit will improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T17:21:23.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3213" CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:38:01.833" Score="3" ViewCount="22462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a bike to move heavy things, separate question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1256/how-to-make-a-cargo-trailer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and sixtyfootersdude is doing a cargo trailer that converges to some extent with my goal to move cargo &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1256/how-to-make-a-cargo-trailer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I am not sure whether mounting a trailer wheel is the same as mounting a normal tire but bear with it I am trying to organize sixtyfootersdude's question at the same time as solving my own problem, just answer the question in the title thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T20:26:44.213" Title="How to attach and mount wheels onto a cargo trailer?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2011-03-16T19:55:25.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheel is a pretty simple mechanism.  You've got two main options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Through-axle.  In this case, the trailer has structural pieces on either side of the wheel.  For example, this design is seen on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobgear.com/bike-trailers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bob Yak and Ibex&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.haulincolin.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Haulin' Colin&lt;/a&gt; trailers.  The main advantage here is that you can use a normal bicycle hub and you have good structural support. The disadvantage is primarily that the wheel well increases the width of two-wheeled trailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Wheelchair hub. (See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.philwood.com/products/hubspgs/wheelchhubs.php#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phil Wood&lt;/a&gt;) This is the design used by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://blueskycyclecarts.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blue Sky Cycle Cart&lt;/a&gt;.  A wheelchair hub has an axle you bolt down from only one side. This allows for a narrower body on a two-wheeled trailer, but you must design the axle fastening system carefully or risk having precession loosen it up.  There is little reason to use this on a single-wheel trailer, unless for compactness when folding or using some kind of mono-suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both types of hubs can be built up with any rim.  Smaller BMX-sized wheels (ERTRO 406mm) have the advantage of taking up less space, light weight, and strength, but the normal disadvantages of smaller wheels when it comes to rolling over obstacles.  24&quot; (520mm) and 26&quot; (559mm) wheels are larger, but you should design your trailer bed to hang below the axle for maximum stability.  Larger wheels are typically only suitable for special applications or in an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.extrawheel.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Extrawheel&lt;/a&gt;-type design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="14181" LastEditDate="2014-11-19T13:18:55.643" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T13:18:55.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2011-03-16T21:49:41.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;lantius is almost right IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use a standard bicycle wheel with a thin through axle, supported from both sides. It's possible to make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/masstrailer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;really simple trailer&lt;/a&gt; this way that will carry quite a lot. The disadvantage is that it's wider than a single sided mount for the same track width (how far apart the contact patches are). Small wheels off kids bikes are often available cheaply or free, and will usually carry 50-100kg each for a few hundred km before they fall apart (come fail immediately, but they're free so don't worry about that).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use a single sided wheelchair hub. They are light and designed so the wheels are easily removable, which is handy for a trailer that will be packed away often. But they will not carry much weight (20-40kg each) because bike trailers get used much harder than wheelchairs do. They're also somewhat expensive unless you can find a stock of wrecked wheelchairs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use a thick axle with single sided support. MTB hubs come in 15mm (Shimano) and 20mm through axle variants, and a 20mm steel bolt the right length is easy to weld onto the side of a trailer and will hold more weight than even a really well built wheel (you could even drill a 10mm hole through it to save weight. But it does need to be supported well as there is a lot of force on it). I have a trailer built that way that regularly takes 120kg or more without complaint. Unfortunately the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/fancy-trailer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;build page&lt;/a&gt; for it is unfinished even though the trailer is ~3 years old. These &lt;a href=&quot;http://trisled.com.au/shop/shopexd.asp?id=20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;20&quot; wheels are expensive&lt;/a&gt;($US135 each) because you will not find them second hand but they work. TriSled use those ones on their load bikes rated to over 100kg/wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to use small wheels on a two wheel trailer (or build your own hubs) because the side forces in corners are more than a 26&quot; or bigger wheel can cope with. With a solid build and care when cornering a 24&quot; wheel can work, but a 16&quot; or 20&quot; wheel will just work. If you build your own hubs with 100mm or more between flanges you could use bigger wheels, but you end up with a very wide wheel (you just added 100mm to the width of the trailer without adding to the load space).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you must look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://hpv.tricolour.net/organ-trailer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Richard Guy Briggs' organ trailer&lt;/a&gt;. It's a bike trailer that carries a Hammond organ and player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T22:10:44.987" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T22:10:44.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1256" CreationDate="2011-03-16T21:57:19.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.haulincolin.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Haulin' Colin&lt;/a&gt; has built about 30 trailers using a fairly simple MIG-welded steel box-frame design using square tubes. I can attest to hauling several hundred pounds in one easily, with uphills being slow and downhills pushing the limits of my bicycle's braking system to the limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/duncancycles/sets/72157626080021707/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duncan Cycles&lt;/a&gt; has been documenting his construction of a TIG-welded steel-tube version of the same design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the know-how and the equipment, welded or brazed designs are going to have significantly higher strength for the same or lower weight as a bolt-together design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also helped with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/razi/113948654/in/set-72057594084525684/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this monstrosity&lt;/a&gt; of a trailer built around a shopping cart specifically to win the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Idiotarod&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Idiotarod&lt;/a&gt;.  I wouldn't recommend it unless you absolutely need to incorporate a shopping cart into your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T21:57:19.233" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-16T21:57:19.233" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3223" CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:04:37.970" Score="10" ViewCount="10810" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I'm getting into the habit of cleaning and maintaining my bike more often, I am burning through my stockpile of rags. Up until now I have been using worn-out clothes as rags. I am going to run out soon and I need to get some more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My LBS (big chain store) just said they get a large, vacuum packed bag of rags delivered from head office every so often. They were kind enough to give me a bunch for free and they seem to be old bedsheets. Whilst I could go to a charity shop and buy some sheets, I'm not keen on cleaning my bike with something that someone might want to buy to wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you use as rags and where do you get them from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T13:06:28.577" Title="Where can I get some rags?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:25:46.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Australia we can buy bags of rags from most tool shops, and from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charity_shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;op shops&lt;/a&gt;. The op shops get a lot of clothing donated that really is only good for rags so they pass that on to the rag people. If you buy direct from the op shop you often get a fairly wild variety of clothing, much of it not very absorbent. But it's cheaper and your money goes direct to charity. Our local is actually quite good about separating the usable rags from the other stuff, I suspect because there's a few of us who go in there looking for rags. But our big chain hardware shop sells big bags of rags very cheaply, cheaper than the op shop does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T22:25:46.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2011-03-16T23:52:38.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best shop rags I have ever used are blue medical operating room towels. They are much stronger than old clothes. They are intended to be thrown away, but I wash them and use 'em again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RsZCp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;blue cloths&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't know where to get them. Maybe if you have an O.R. doctor or nurse in the family.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I also use these to clean the kitchen, to wipe up spilled soup, to wash a car or bike, as hot pads, and as napkins. I put a damp one under the cutting board to make it stable.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T23:52:38.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1256" CreationDate="2011-03-17T02:56:51.060" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made several and documented at least some of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 wheel trailer 1.6x1m: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/megatrailer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/megatrailer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpscb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpscb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 wheel trailer 0.8x0.4m: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/shoptrailer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/shoptrailer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSeqo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSeqo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 more of the above &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/masstrailer/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;with a better design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iO7vq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iO7vq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z1SsP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z1SsP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/big-trailer/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a four wheel, inertia braked trailer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ylTNX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ylTNX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qkhfl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qkhfl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7x8ug.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7x8ug.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 wheel, single sided wheel mount &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/fancy-trailer/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trailer with telescoping drawbar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I much favour the mass produced design because it's easy to weld or braze together and quite robust. The chain-in-spring hitch is reliable and durable and very hard to break (the chain links eventually wear though but that takes years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="23748" LastEditDate="2016-12-02T14:47:26.587" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T14:47:26.587" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-17T02:56:51.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3228" CreationDate="2011-03-17T03:14:28.823" Score="7" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2767/what-bikeequipment-for-a-long-daily-urban-commute/2769#2769&quot;&gt;@Jason's and @Neil's advice&lt;/a&gt; and practiced wearing clipless pedals in cold weather. I fell three times (nearly four) last week, all at very low speeds: twice because of ice, and twice because of having my shoes clipped to the pedals and not unclipping in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Falling didn't hurt: at all. At the time I was wearing a short-sleeve shirt, and a long-sleeved uninsulated Gore-Tex wind-and-rain-proof anorak (and jeans and gloves and a hard hat). I bruised my hip slightly, one of those time; never any cuts or abrasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weather is getting better (it's above freezing, this week). Eventually, it will be hot. I commute and I don't know about specialist bike clothes. I expect I might wear, I don't know, summer shorts and a T-shirt in hot weather (and shoes and a hard hat and maybe gloves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ought I, for safety, to wear long sleeves or something, even in summer, in case I come off again? I can't see myself wearing a wind-proof anorak in sunny summer when the temperature is in the +10C to +25C kind of range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I have something though, to protect my arms if I fall? Would long sleeves make a difference? Is there a fabric that's protective yet cool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see myself wearing armour just for commuting. On the other hand, my fear / worst case scenario is that I might fall, leave bits of elbow tendon behind on the pavement, and then people say &quot;what a fool: didn't he know he's supposed to wear XXX for, you know, basic safety when cycling?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T09:12:28.833" Title="Long sleeves for safety?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3219" CreationDate="2011-03-17T03:29:16.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope that by the summer you'll be so used to clipless pedals that you won't be falling any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wear long sleeves because as a pasty white guy I need all the sun protection I can get. From experience they only help a little tiny bit in a major fall because they just abrade away to nothing wherever they get stuck between your skin and the road. But where long sleeves really help is turning a bruised graze into a bruise - the shirt helps soak up some of the damage so you bleed less in minor falls. Like the low-speed ones you've been having. Expect the fall to leave holes in the shirt, dirt embedded in it and if you're unlicky, blood on it. But it's been a long time since I even fell off, let alone did more than roll a couple of times and say &quot;oops&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as fabrics go I find cotton t shirts work fine. Yes, proper synthetic fabric cycling shirts work better but they cost more and it's hard to find them without advertising on them. If I'm paying to advertise something I want it to be something I support. Land rights for gay whales or whatever. I also like the shirt to be one I don't feel obliged to change out of as soon as I get off the bike, plus I already own a collection of long sleeved cotton t shirts. Some with hoods, which is even better. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://images3.cpcache.com/product/wheel-sports-silly/31506383v3_225x225_Front.jpg&amp;amp;imgrefurl=http://www.cafepress.com/+mountain-bike+long_sleeve_tees&amp;amp;usg=__BiqpJfpmtIFG4bjW25t6kXsehzo=&amp;amp;h=225&amp;amp;w=225&amp;amp;sz=8&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;start=3&amp;amp;zoom=1&amp;amp;tbnid=QuI7_mnjVo1HcM%3a&amp;amp;tbnh=108&amp;amp;tbnw=108&amp;amp;ei=GpmBTZWIDcWrcZaGnJUD&amp;amp;prev=/images?q=31506383v3&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&amp;amp;hs=N5Q&amp;amp;sa=N&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla%3aen-GB%3aofficial&amp;amp;biw=1200&amp;amp;bih=1471&amp;amp;tbs=isch:1&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;itbs=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CafePress sell them&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-03-17T05:18:07.327" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T05:18:07.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3229" CreationDate="2011-03-17T04:08:54.610" Score="6" ViewCount="1596" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that 'training' is a valid topic, can you say how much rest a novice needs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ambition is to commute 18 km each way, every week day: in Toronto (mostly flat, some hills, mostly bike lanes and some bike paths). I &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2795/a-test-ride-for-a-new-bicycle/3056#3056&quot;&gt;have a bike&lt;/a&gt; and I am currently doing the 18 km in about an hour and a quarter (so, about two and a half hours total per weekday).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My schedule has been:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full days (18 km each way, 40 km total) since the Tuesday before last (8 days ago)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No riding (complete rest) last weekend (2 days)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About 10 km/day, for the 6 days before that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Virtually no exercise (occasional 1 hour on an exercise cycle) before that (this is a new job and a new bike) ... so, I'm a novice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm 49 years old, have a sedentary (computer) job/life-style, male, not over-weight (6 foot / 185 cm and 170 lb / 77 kg).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's been a little cold (down to about -8C; I've been wearing jeans, and caring more/only about my core temperature, so maybe the back of my knee got cold; certainly my feet got cold sometimes; it wasn't especially cold today though, about +4C, when the pain started)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been loving the rides, and I want to continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I developed a pain at the back of my knee at the top of my left fibula. I don't know whether that's a ligament or a tendon (I'm presuming it's one or the other). I'm using Shimano SPD shoes with the clip at the default position (centre of the ball of the foot). My right knee is fine. The one other thing I do with my left knee is, when I stop, I put my left foot down on the road: which means pointing my left foot down, putting my weight on my left toes (not heel), while my right foot is still on the right pedal; but maybe that's not relevent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Towards the end of my ride I tried unclipping my left shoe, and rode with the pedal under my arch (instead of under the ball of my foot, to reduce the work being done by my calf ... because I couldn't work out why it's the back of my knee that's hurting: I would have expected the front, if most of the force/work is from the front thigh) and that seemed to help: less acute pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't care much about short-term pain, except that it might be a warning of worse chronic pain to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why am I getting that pain there? What should I do or change, to remedy it? Am I resting enough and if not how much more rest should I take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:41:20.973" Title="How much rest (tendon or ligament), for a novice?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2011-03-17T04:23:49.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cut a piece off a pair of old (holey) jeans. I could cut those jeans into 40 pieces, which would last about 40 weeks: so, not quite enough. I kept the rag though; I might try washing it (hand-washing it, separately), which could let it last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T04:23:49.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2011-03-17T05:01:08.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the dirty jobs, like cleaning the chain, I use throwaway paper from a roll: [dead link removed]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the bigger rolls tends to last for years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the not-so dirty jobs, the baseline is &quot;not dirty enough to throw the rag away after&quot;, I use rags. That way, I get along with my personal used clothing as rags. I generally dont wash the rags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go buy rags, you should take t-shirt rags made from cotton. There are rags from synthetics which just arent absorbant enough. I had a neighbour who worked at a sewing factory, and she brought the synthetics stuff as rags. A decent sized of those rags wouldnt take in a cup of water, and dissolve in some solvents. Not good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Cotton, look at stuff like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewipeshop.co.uk/index.php?cPath=23&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thewipeshop.co.uk/index.php?cPath=23&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-03-02T21:07:56.147" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T21:07:56.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3219" CreationDate="2011-03-17T05:01:47.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you're out &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bike_derby&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;derbying&lt;/a&gt; or have a complicating balance issue I wouldn't worry about it.  Falling off a bicycle when commuting or recreational riding should become an extremely rare experience with practice.  Tank tops and shorts are perfectly acceptable bike wear in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ice is of course a different beast; the best advice I have for ice is that you should be prepared to fall and do not have anything in your pockets that you don't want embedded in your leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T05:01:47.567" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3221" CreationDate="2011-03-17T05:28:08.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a doctor, so please take this with a grain of salt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't expect to go from zero training to big training in a week. You may try taking it slow, like two days a week at first, or three. Once you don't have a problem with that, go on for more. A 40km commute is nothing to be scoffed at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I avoid commuting below -2°C because if I don't wear special protective clothing, I get pain in the knees. I don't want to change clothing at work, therefore I take the bus when it is cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, knee pain can have a lot of sources: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lack of training - muscles in the knee not up to the job. Or lack of strength in the back, arms, shoulders leading to a sagging posture, off to one side, etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pre-existing damage to your knee, that you didnt notice before (sedentary lifestyle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bicycle settings: seat height, handlebar width, distance, clip position etc. Experiment with it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Habits: different pattern of force application on the left leg. Always using it to start? Watch what you're doing. Move about the bike. Change the settings. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jeans might be interfering with the blood supply - try with bicycle pants. If you feel uncomfortable on the bike, this may be the reason. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience when I had a severely damaged shoulder, it became nearly impossible for me to bicycle, because I got problems in the left knee. I had ridden 10k km per year before. Left arm broken, left knee hurts. (Or any other improbable combination, really)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then moved to a recumbent, and my right knee hurt when I did a 150km a week commute. After much experiment, I noticed the pain stops when I move a few centimeters to the right of the seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the accident and before getting the recumbent, I slouched for three years, with next to no bicycling. When getting back on the bike, despite having ridden so much before, it took an astoundingly long time to get back to the 150km commute (44yo, sedentary lifestyle)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some training on the recumbent, there is no problem on the upright any more. Okay, the shoulder is 95% fine now. This took two years, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:41:20.973" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:41:20.973" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3208" CreationDate="2011-03-17T13:45:43.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The top end frame makers treat the inside of their frames with anti-rust stuff before shipping, so you shouldn't need to worry. But, if your frame hasn't been treated, I would argue against monkeying around with materials from the health food store -- there are superb specialized products made for the purpose. I think Boeshield is considered the standard (check with a reputable bike shop). The main thing is that it's a pretty elaborate and cumbersome process to get the treatment into every part of the inside of the frame; you don't want to have to do it often, not even every year. So get the good stuff that really works and do it once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1249" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T13:45:43.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3221" CreationDate="2011-03-17T14:04:10.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the general rule for seat height and knee pain is:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-pain in the back of the knee -&gt; seat is too high.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-pain in the front of the knee -&gt; seat is too low.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I first saw it in discussion on bikeforums.net and I've found it to be true in my own experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So try moving the seat down a teeny, tiny bit. Your hips should not be rocking side-to-side as you ride--if they do, the seat is too high. The often-stated rule that the seat height should allow you to straighten your leg with your heel on the pedal will give a good starting point most of the time, but keep in mind that it's only a starting point. I tend to need my seat a wee bit lower than that to avoid pain in the back of the knee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your body will tell you how much rest you need--it's going to be different for every individual. Zero to 200 km/week is a huge jump, so it's not surprising that your tendons and ligaments are protesting a bit. I'd say you should probably rest until the pain goes away--shouldn't be more than a couple of days, but I'm no doctor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-03-18T16:49:48.893" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T16:49:48.893" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3219" CreationDate="2011-03-17T18:10:19.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the weather and your skills improve, do a continual risk/benefit analysis of your ride safety outfit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As has already been said, you will get better and better at riding clipless.  Right now, you are learning under the most difficult conditions--judging from your question, two of the four falls (50%!) simply wouldn't have happened if you had taken this up in the summertime.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by the time weather is good, you will be even less likely to come off of the bike.  As you've probably figured out, the learning curve is generally steep for clipless pedals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just the same, it isn't &lt;em&gt;unreasonable&lt;/em&gt; to think about protecting bare skin from a fall.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flipside, you should consider the potential for heat injury while riding in the summer.  You can hydrate, sure, but you will need to keep your body from overheating if you are riding hard under summer conditions.  In central California, riding my bike in long sleeves really would create more risk of heat injury than riding in a t-shirt's risk of abrasion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't often fall off of my bike, but when I do it hurts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't often suffer from heat stress but honestly, if I do, it has the potential to be just as injurious!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I never wear long sleeves in summer while commuting--I wear sunscreen lotion and a t-shirt.  I do, however, often wear long sleeves in summer while riding my mountain bike on rugged trails.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your risk/benefit analysis may yield different results than mine... but that's how it looks from this end.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T18:10:19.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3221" CreationDate="2011-03-17T21:22:49.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, not a doctor.  I took a sports medicine class in school, once.  Once.  So what I am about to describe is an example and a suggestion--not a medical prescription.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note.  The objective answer to your question, &quot;How much rest...&quot; will be different for different people.  It depends on diet, your individual musculoskeletal structure, what other things you might be doing to train or otherwise, possibly genetics.  The answer can be anywhere from twelve hours to three days for regular training-related recovery.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are doing is awesome and amazing.  And I'm not surprised that you are enjoying the rides!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any sort of strength training is similar.  You need to stress your body, provide time and input for replenishment, then stress it again.  Over time conditioning improves.  This conditioning applies to muscles, tendons, and ligaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other respondents.  You might have lept into this a little quickly--especially starting from zero.  I would recommend that you initially ride your whole commute by bike on Tuesdays and Fridays.  During your weekend, take your bike for a training ride that is more than a quarter but less than half of your commute-ride.  Maybe ride to the grocery store?  Run some other errand?  But work in a training ride on your days off.  Do something similar on Wednesday or Thursday--either after work or on your lunch-break.  Eat well and healthfully each day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work into this slowly, allowing your body maximum opportunity to normalize the new routine.  &lt;strong&gt;Remember that if you feel pain--that's pain where ligaments or tendons attach to muscle or bone.  Ligaments themselves have minimal vascular &lt;em&gt;and nervous structure&lt;/em&gt;, so apart from at these attachment points you may not even feel damage that's caused elsewhere in the ligament.&lt;/strong&gt; You may be able to detect swelling: mild inflammation, including behind the knee. This (inflammation) is itself an early warning. The recovery time varies: it depends on the extent of any injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've done this for about three months, start riding the full commute on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.  Continue to take that training ride on the weekends, but go easy with it.  If you have pain, switch back to the old schedule for a week.  If the pain keeps coming back, switch back to the old schedule for another month.  It takes time.  Keep eating healthy--which MAY mean eating MORE if your body demands it!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do that for another three-or-four months without recurring problems and then try riding five days in a row every other week for a few months.  Use either of the old schedules on alternate weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And so on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also get acquainted with the public transit system in your area so that if you feel pain on your ride in, you don't have to ride on the injury to go home.  Take advantage of this regularly so that you don't hesitate to take it if you ought to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend getting into this carefully so that you don't develop a syndrome or injury that prevents you from cycling in the long run.  Individuals who take up regular strenuous activity after long periods of sedentary lifestyle may be subject to compartment syndromes--which are possible where your muscle growth &quot;suddenly&quot; outpaces the expansion of other tissues in your lower leg, for example.  Continual re-injury of connective tissues around the knee can also lead to tendonitis, bursitis, or similar soft-tissue injury.  Any of these can make cycling seem like more pain than it is worth in the long run--especially if most of your life's fondest memories aren't already on a bicycle!  (Here you see my ulterior motive:  to encourage you to develop these positive associations with cycling before you get a cycling-related injury!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working into this slowly--and of course eating right--will rapidly transform you, though, from a &quot;sedentary computer job/lifestyle&quot; into an &quot;active cyclist who does computers for a day-job&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-03-21T15:30:14.973" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T15:30:14.973" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3231" CreationDate="2011-03-18T03:22:40.633" Score="20" ViewCount="3063" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding bikes since I was a child but my partner only started when she was in her 20's. She's had one fall where she lost teeth and is keen to avoid future injuries. I've broken bones twice and had innumerable grazes and scrapes but the frequency of those has been dropping for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We live in Melbourne, no snow in the winter but 45 degree days in the summer are becoming more common (115F). We both commute and generally ride for transport, mostly in urban/suburban streets and bike paths but very rarely on busy multilane roads. Mostly at 20-25kph (25-25kph for me, but it's mostly her I'm concerned with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that I've got enough wrestling experience that I automatically bounce, roll and run when I come off my bike. Saying &quot;just study aikido for a few years&quot; is not really what she wants to hear, but we expect she will need to train or practice something. Ideally something specific to cycling rather than just suggesting something like aikido.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She has gloves and wears them sometimes. I almost always wear gloves while riding. So other suggestions for protective clothing etc would also be handy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like suggestions as to what she can do to minimise future injuries. This is not &quot;how to avoid crashes&quot; but &quot;what to do when you crash&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-03-18T04:20:08.633" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T16:12:34.873" Title="Techniques for minimising injury when falling or crashing?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;skills&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3230" CreationDate="2011-03-18T04:56:31.683" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wear a helmet (not wanting to start the compulsory helmet debate), and gloves - every little bit helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory let go of the handlebars would be good. I have had some painful long lasting wrist injuries from the wrenching of the handlbars as the other side of the bar hits the ground. Although you would have to have good reflexes to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm normally clipped in so a roll off a bike isn't really an option - but I have seen some impressive acrobatic dismounts off mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T04:56:31.683" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3230" CreationDate="2011-03-18T14:52:49.593" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience dealing with crashes and bounces is like a lot of other aspects of, especially urban, cycling in that anticipation and prediction are the key attributes to getting away with less damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, if you don't crash, you won't damage yourself (whether you're lidded or not). It's a variant on Gary Player's infamous quote, &quot;The more I practice, the luckier I get&quot; - the more you think about what could happen, rather than just letting the world happen to you, you'll be better at predicting dangers and avoiding them: speed into corners, visibility around bends, road surfaces, car doors, cars appearing at junctions, and so on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn to look a little further ahead - that red light 50 metres in front? React to it when you're 100 metres away (and more importantly, consider what others might do). My last crash was when I cycled into the back of a delivery van while looking over my shoulder to see if it was clear to move to the outside of the lane - while I was looking round, the van was slowing for some traffic lights I hadn't considered, so I piled into the back of him unawares. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this isn't a &quot;what to do when you crash&quot;, but I think that there is more to crash preparation as a part urban cycling than how to fall. Cycling has a mostly undeserved reputation as being a dangerous pastime. Most accidents I hear about (definitely the handful I've had in the last few years) have been utterly avoidable and not actually that accidental. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T14:52:49.593" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3230" CreationDate="2011-03-18T15:19:43.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mostly mountain bike (or maybe mountain crash) and one thing I always try and remember is to NOT stick my arm out to break my fall.  Many a friend has snapped a collar bone doing that.  I often end up almost balling up, and while it is more out of fear of impending doom than any thought of protection I have been pretty lucky so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She can also wear long sleeve wicking shirts and tights, would give some protection from road rash and also help with sunburns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T15:19:43.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3221" CreationDate="2011-03-18T15:46:40.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other good answers here, as a long-time knee pain sufferer I will only add a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep your knees warm.&lt;/strong&gt;  Knees have very little insulation by themselves and as the temperature drops the fluid in the joint will get more viscous plus you'll get less blood flow.  I try to keep my knees covered any time the thermometer dips below 20 degC.  If you're wearing jeans that are loose enough, you can try wearing cycling knee covers underneath.  They'll keep your joint warm and the compression will help too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check your saddle height.&lt;/strong&gt;  As @jefferee pointed out, pain at the back of the knee is a common indicator of your saddle being too high.  Try lowering it 0.5cm or so and it should clear up quickly if that's the case.  Otherwise it's something else.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get your bike &amp;amp; cleats fitted.&lt;/strong&gt;  A serious bike fitting session might be overkill for commuting, but this is how I eventually cleared up my chronic knee pain.  You may have an unusual pedal stroke, or one leg longer than the other which might require fine tuning your saddle position and cleat adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T15:46:40.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2011-03-18T17:53:08.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use lots of paper towels, but I know Home Depot, Menards, Lowes etc all sell big bundles of terry cloth towels in their cleaning supplies sections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T17:53:08.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3219" CreationDate="2011-03-19T10:38:54.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience any road accident fast enough to hurt will injure you through any clothes you are wearing. I've ended up with badly gashed shoulders and haunches where my shorts and jersey have just been scuffed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that I took away from my last big crash (35km/h onto rough tarmac) was the importance of a helmet obviously, but also how mashed my fingers were, and how bad my palms would have been if I hadn't been wearing mitts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T10:38:54.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3221" CreationDate="2011-03-19T16:37:31.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cptips.com/knee.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cycling Performance Tips - Leg, Knee, and Hip Pain&lt;/a&gt; is all about knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It includes different reasons and corrections for e.g. anterior versus posterior pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a section on treatment towards the bottom, which starts with, &quot;Knee pain generally develops slowly over a number of days and is not an emergency&quot; and &quot;physician rather than walk-in clinic.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rehabilitation it suggests, &quot;Take a few days off and then ... cut back mileage by 20 - 30 % and spin at a high rpm and in a low gear for a week or two.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For prevention: don't get cold, get the right fit/posture/biomechanics (as explained earlier in the article), have a cadence of at least 75-80 rpm, and avoid &quot;big changes&quot; in training (saying that a risk factor is increasing mileage by more than 10% a week).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T16:37:31.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3230" CreationDate="2011-03-19T21:50:26.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a couple of road crashes in the last 3 years. One I hit a patch of ice and ended up sliding sideways down the tarmac. In the other I was clipped by the rear wheel of the guy in front (ok, maybe I clipped him, hard to say) and went down clipped in and over the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In neither case, nor most of my mountain bike crashes, do I remember having any time to react - I was aware that I was in trouble, and then on the ground bleeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm not sure that any strategy would have helped me out. Ironically, this is coming from someone with 20 years experience of aikido! I think that my last crash was a pretty perfect ukemi, judging from injuries I received, but it sure wasn't a deliberate act.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T21:50:26.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3246" CreationDate="2011-03-20T03:59:49.857" Score="7" ViewCount="2770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just going to re-wrap my road bike's handlebar tape tomorrow.  Before I do that I was wondering what the proper place is to put the brake levers.  I know they should be pointed vertically, however I was wondering if there is a rule of thumb.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="859" LastEditDate="2011-03-20T06:55:41.673" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T00:58:06.220" Title="Brake lever placement on a road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="512" CreationDate="2011-03-20T04:12:03.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a long list here (I don't know how good or recent it is, but it is quite long, and pan-national): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/fourwhel.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Where to Find A Four-Wheeled Bike or Tricycle&lt;/a&gt;. The various sellers might tell you whether/how it's possible to transport them by car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also second-level links, for example one of the links is to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roman-road.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.roman-road.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt; which then links to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tricycleassociation.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tricycleassociation.org.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T04:12:03.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3249" CreationDate="2011-03-20T15:49:34.917" Score="14" ViewCount="9822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Specialized HardRock Sport with disc brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm slowing down from a reasonable speed with the front brake, I noticed that the top of the front wheel appears to deflect sideways toward the disc.  I can't tell when I'm riding but I suspect that the whole wheel is twisting.  This doesn't seem to be safe to me, and I'm don't remember that happening before when I ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tightened the QR on the front already.  What else could be the cause of this or where should I start to look?  Or has it always done this and I never noticed before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="533" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T10:58:04.783" Title="What causes my front wheel to twist when I apply the brake?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3241" CreationDate="2011-03-21T00:58:06.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the olden days one idea was that the bottom of the levers should be along a line projected from the bottom straight section of the bars. I don know why, and that was often an uncomfortable position for me. So I am a long-term follower of the &quot;what feels comfortable&quot; approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is connected to what angle your handlebars sit at, so it's important to get that right at the same time. If you were happy with how they were before you started, leave them there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first step would be to attach the brake levers to bare bars, ideally without cables (it's easier if you're doing new cables at the same time). If you have a wind trainer, put the bike in that because it will make evaluating the feel of the bike easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then try the two positions that matter to me - resting on the hoods, and standing up pulling on the levers. The latter is harder because it's usually something I do on hills or in sprints, not cruising along the flat. So I focus mostly on the resting position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sit on the bike, rest on the hoods and see how you feel. Lift the levers a little and see if that feels better. Then drop them back. Only a few millimetres at a time. Once you have somewhere that works for you, you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T00:58:06.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-21T18:31:02.247" Score="12" ViewCount="4221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?spid=52721&amp;amp;scid=1001&amp;amp;scname=Road&quot;&gt;Specialized Tricross&lt;/a&gt; which I bought new last year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that time (approximately 1K miles), I wore out my chain and gears. At least two of my gears are still slipping, even with a new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I spend the majority of my time in one or two gears. Should I avoid this?  Are there other things I should be doing to avoid replacing my chain/gears every season?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a novice who mostly just commutes to work, so assume I know very little about form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T11:50:39.370" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T11:42:26.963" Title="How to avoid wearing out gears?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3247" CreationDate="2011-03-21T19:11:42.807" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A stretched chain will wear out gears (especially the rear cassette). You can see when this because the teeth get worn away to points - it's very obvious.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's very unlikely you wore out a chain and gears in 1000 Km. What is more likely is that the cable has stretched slight from new and the derailuer is out of adjustment so it is putting the chain slightly between two gears.   For adjustment details see - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question - No you aren't going to do any damage by using only one gear, if it's the correct gear. You are going to stretch the chain, and break more of them by being in too high a gear - just like in a car. You will also wear the chain faster by being in a 'bad' gear - eg on the inner front cog and the smallest back cog or (v.v.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2011-03-21T20:08:12.897" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T20:08:12.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3244" CreationDate="2011-03-21T22:57:00.227" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd take a close look at your dropout and your QR skewer.  The rotating disc exerts an upward force on the disc caliper, which tends to want to push the dropout up and away from the axle (or as normally stated, pushes the axle down and out of the dropout).  Some calculations at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/&quot;&gt;Jules &amp;amp; James&lt;/a&gt;' comprehensive site computes the force generated to be as much as 3800N.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To achieve a 6mm offset at the top of the tire you'd need the axle to move about 1mm within the dropout. Try spinning the wheel in a bike stand with the skewer loose enough to allow free sliding but not wheel ejection, and see if you can replicate the same effect you're seeing out in the real world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T22:57:00.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-22T03:28:44.257" Score="1" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to identify, or find similar, parts on the bike in &lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/18472550&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, specifically the front (three spoke) wheel, frame, and handle bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1263" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T05:42:41.490" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T05:42:41.490" Title="Identify the components of this bike" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3250" CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:07:53.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looks like a Corima to me, but I may be wrong: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corima.com/gb/produits/roues/default.cfm?family=roues_janteCorima&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.corima.com/gb/produits/roues/default.cfm?family=roues_janteCorima&lt;/a&gt; for sale at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lfgss.com/thread37288.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lfgss.com/thread37288.html&lt;/a&gt; in plain black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right about that being a nice ad - I like the video as well as the music.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T04:07:53.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:57:51.970" Score="8" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Melbourne, Australia, a city famous for its compact, grid-like CBD (downtown area) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tram&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trams&lt;/a&gt;. Trams mean tram tracks and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hook_turn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hook turns&lt;/a&gt;. And compulsory helmets. My daily ride is only 10 km but has 32 traffic lights and the second half is shared with trams. It's the second half that really concerns me because it's busy inner-city traffic with a lot going on. The grid is less than 100 m in Elizabeth St. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting good with tram tracks. Unweighting wheels as they cross the tracks seems to be the main technique (and I haven't fallen yet). I have reasonable situational awareness, and I don't listen to music while riding, but I still have motorists &quot;come out of nowhere&quot; at least once a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What do others do about the &quot;come out of nowhere&quot; motorists? I'm already scanning and head-turning to look down side streets but obviously not well enough. Is there a technique I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What's the best approach when the light is already green and there are hook turning motorists waiting? Go up the left so they don't turn right on top of me, or the right so I have space to move and am not fighting pedestrians?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How should I deal with &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_stop_line&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycle forward stop&lt;/a&gt;&quot; boxes? They're contested by cars and I don't feel especially safe using them, and a lot of motorists seem offended that a cyclist would move over in front of them if they leave the box clear. So mostly I just use the bike lane part rather than the whole box.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T09:14:22.963" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T09:14:22.963" Title="How can I avoid crashes on my urban commute? Tramlines and CBD sections especially" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;skills&gt;&lt;australia&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2011-03-22T11:41:58.750" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3- How should I deal with &quot;bicycle forward stop&quot; boxes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I deal with a &quot;bicycle forward stop&quot; box by using it (and being grateful that the city planners have started to arrange things for bikes). For example if cars are stopped where they should be (out of the box) and the light's red, I move into the box. It's there for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I'm in Toronto where people drive on the right.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike-specific stop box only happens on the roads that are designated bike routes. On the right of the box I'm in the designated bike lane (so not in any car's way, except if the lead car is hoping to turn right across the bike lane, in which case that is one scenario that the stop box is intended for, and I don't mind if they wait two or three seconds while I move off, they'd have to wait for any pedestrians anyway), and on the left of the box it's because I'll be turning left across the traffic (like any other vehicle turning left, and sometimes in a lane for left-hand-turning only).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My being in the stop box doesn't slow people behind me (on the right I'm in a bike lane, and on the left it's the on-coming traffic that's preventing the left turn; and fwiw my acceleration from a stand-still is no slower than a typical car's). The point of the stop box is to make me visible to people starting off. I like to think that (me being visible) is better for all of us: that even drivers don't want to participate in an accident with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;del&gt;don't&lt;/del&gt; rarely see cars contesting them. My reaction to such a car (same as e.g. a car that's stopped in my pedestrian crossing) is to look at and make brief eye contact with the driver, looking through their windscreen. I want to see what they they look like, what/who the person is. I'd like them to see me too, to know that there's another person, outside their car. Hopefully when they're aware that it's people and not just vehicles on the road, they'll be a bit careful about their driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No more than that: no rude gestures, I don't want to anger people. Also my seeing who they are helps to keep me calm (and not e.g. demonize the car).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of my route (18 km near downtown) is bike lane, or lightly-trafficked residential street. I have two intersections though, where I need to make a left turn (across traffic) that I'm not happy with. One I don't like because it's turning across tram lines; another because it's 'arterial' roads, one without a bike lane, where cars hustle each other across a wide intersection, and I find it difficult to move across the curb-side traffic into the other left-turning lane. For those two intersections, I get off and walk across as a pedestrian. If that's what it takes to feel safe, then why not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T12:48:51.960" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T12:48:51.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3247" CreationDate="2011-03-22T12:03:21.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wore out my chain and gears ... Are there other things I should be doing to avoid replacing my chain/gears every season? ... I am a novice who mostly just commutes to work, so assume I know very little about form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One bit of self-maintenance (as well as keeping your tires pumped) is to keep your chain lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your chain isn't lubricated then (it's slower to drive and) it wears out more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1696&quot;&gt;How do I lubricate my chain?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told I don't need to especially clean my gears: a) because lubrication on the chain will sufficiently-lubricate the gears; b) I'm riding on road, not mud; c) I have fenders/mud-guards which help keep the worst of the muck off the bike as well as off me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2781/how-much-maintenance/2786#2786&quot;&gt;How much maintenance (for chains and cassettes)?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T12:28:27.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3260" CreationDate="2011-03-22T19:49:10.157" Score="3" ViewCount="3986" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last summer I was on tour with my Trek 520 when my rear rim cracked.  I found a bike shop, and they rebuilt the wheel with a new rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I noticed the wheel was off center relative to the frame by about 1cm.  I did some basic measurements with a string to confirm the frame wasn't bent, and inserting the wheel backwards confirmed it was the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought it to a bike shop and they attempted to redish it.  When I picked it up the guy told me the spokes had to be adjusted unusually tight, and he was only able to correct it by so much (it's still slightly off center, but hardly noticeable).  He guessed the wheel may have been built incorrectly last year (i.e., left spokes on the right side and vice-versa), although I don't see how that's possible since the spokes weren't removed from the hub when it was rebuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question in all of this is:  Was the bike shop guy talking BS and could the off center wheel or tight spokes cause problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1265" LastEditorUserId="1265" LastEditDate="2011-03-23T06:49:17.967" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T06:49:17.967" Title="misaligned wheel - could this cause problems?" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3247" CreationDate="2011-03-22T20:24:15.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain is what causes all the wear on your drive components.  It is called chain stretch but your chain does not stretch it wears at each pin or rivet and increases in length. When this wear is excessive it wears the cassette teeth, chain set teeth and the jockey wheels on your rear gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all this equipment is new, Keep it clean and oiled.  Buy yourself a chain wear gauge and this will indicate to you when to change your chain before it causes excessive wear on your other drive components.  Depending on how much you cycle you might require two new chains a year but that is cheaper than; new cassette, chain rings and jockey wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cycle for a year and clock up 1000-1500 miles you will require to replace the chain and cassette.  If you don't and just replace the chain you will find the gears will jump and that is due to the wear that is on the rear cogs.  Hope that helps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T20:24:15.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3244" CreationDate="2011-03-22T20:34:51.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be wear or poor adjustment of your hub bearings.  Try lifting the bike up at the front and try moving the wheel from one side to the other.  There should be little or no movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T20:34:51.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3255" CreationDate="2011-03-22T21:01:17.240" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a geared bicycle the rear wheel is dished to accommadate the cassette depending on the number of cogs on the cassette.  This is to set the correct chain-line.  The chain-line is very important for the adjustment and operation of your gears.  Your wheel rim should be off center to the hub when you look at it from the rear.  Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T21:01:17.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3255" CreationDate="2011-03-22T21:55:41.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: probably not. It may make your brakes harder to set up but that's all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dishing is having shorter, tighter spokes on one side of the wheel to move the rim towards that side relative to the midpoint between the flanges (where the spokes attach on the hub). The frame and wheel are still built symmetrically for historical reasons, but dishing allows the flanges to be assymetric so you have more space to fit cogs in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike shop guy is probably right if he used a spoke tensiometer (if he didn't you need to find a better bike shop). There's a limit on how tight the spokes can be, usually set by the rim but sometimes by the hub (or with aluminium spokes, the spokes). If you overtension the spokes something will give way, usually nipples start pulling through your rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he has wound the spokes up as tight as he can and the dishing is still not right, you are indeed stuck. Since it seems to work like that, I say accept it and move on. Expect the wheel to be a little more fragile than before, more likely to buckle and it will fail earlier than it should. But since it should last a lifetime, that doesn't mean it won't last until the braking surface wears away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the new rim is the same or only slightly different from the old one it's possible they used the old spokes, but that's penny wise and pound foolish. Spokes stretch slightly and settle into position when the wheel is built for the first time, and trying to do that a second time rarely works well - spokes are more likely to break in the future. Much better to pay the $20 or so for new spokes and be done with it. The wheelbuild labour cost is so much greater than the spoke cost that it's foolish not to just buy new spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One cheat that can give you a millimetre each way is to play with the spacers and locknuts on your axle. There are thin locknuts and fat locknuts, as well as a variety of spacers. With most wheels you can swap bits around to shuffle the whole thing a little bit sideways. This changes the chainline and can mean the chain hits the frame in the smallest cog, so it needs to be done cautiously. But if you are really worried about that last millimetre that should fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T22:39:12.300" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T22:39:12.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3255" CreationDate="2011-03-22T22:49:02.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike shop that replaced your rim replaced it either incorrectly or with the incorrect part, I suspect.  At least some of the 2007-2008 Trek 520 shipped with Bontrager Maverick rims, featuring an &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/technology/offset_spoke_bed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;offset spoke bed&lt;/a&gt;.  If they did in fact use the same spokes, and if they replaced it with a normal rim of appropriate ERD, the wheel will end up dished incorrectly the amount of the offset.  Similarly, if they laced the rim backwards, the wheel will end up dished incorrectly double the amount of offset.  The former is more likely, especially if you didn't get your wheel rebuilt by a mechanic who routinely works on Trek/Bontrager bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An off-center wheel will cause some odd handling characteristics, almost certainly not noticeable in normal riding conditions but you'll be able to tell that your wheels are not tracking in a straight line in low-traction scenarios, such as ice or wet grated roadways.  The more extreme the offset, the more noticeable this will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, moz is absolutely correct about the rationale behind dishing and the ramifications of running spokes in too high of tension.  I'd probably ride the wheel locally until failure but I would recommend getting a properly dished and tensioned wheel built (possibly just rebuilding this wheel with the correct spokes) before going on another tour of significant distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T22:49:02.023" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:06:29.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;What do others do about the &quot;come out of nowhere&quot; motorists? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few possible reasons for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vision&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to develop your peripheral vision. Unless you have problematic eyesight, you can detect movement in your peripheral vision. This doesn't replace glancing around thoroughly, but it does give you a guide to unexpected movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Just a guess, but do you wear a balaclava? I have a loose one that I don't wear much because it cuts off my peripheral vision.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mirrors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I find that an eyeglass mirror enables me to be quicker to spot things, because I don't have to turn my head to glance all the way behind me, just tilt my head a touch and refocus, without looking away from the road in front of me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Night vision&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is happening more at night, it could mean you need better lighting. It could also mean that you're having problems with night vision, or simply need glasses or a new prescription! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much about staying alert in traffic comes down to practice. If it's the case that you need practice at this, be extremely careful and conservative, until you become more confident. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T03:06:29.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2011-03-23T04:29:58.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can guard somewhat against &quot;out of nowhere&quot; motorists entering from your side of the road (ie. from left in Aus) by scanning ahead and keeping a keen eye on possible entry points (streets, driveways, alleys).  But traffic coming from the other side of the road -- like those hook turns -- is much harder to scan for.  They fall outside of your peripheral vision and actively scanning oncoming traffic for turning cars takes attention away from closer traffic when riding on busy roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, being highly visible and in a place where traffic is expected is really your best defense.  (I would keep that in mind when coming up for a solution to your 2nd &amp;amp; 3rd points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T04:29:58.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2011-03-23T09:08:12.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see that nobody has yet mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com&lt;/a&gt; which I use for route creation before I head out on an unknown territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slowdown uphill calculation based on steepness&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing about it is that you can set few parameters (defaults are quite fine for advanced recreation) and it calculates timing based on these parameters which turn out to be quite good. You can then upload it to your GPS unit (ie. GARMIN EDGE 500) and use it as your virtual partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also set track points, so your unit can tell you when and where to turn (you can do that easily on a map because you see roads). I'm using GARMIN EDGE 500 which doesn't have maps so these turns on unknown roads are great. I can focus more on my ride than finding my way on unknown village roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside to it is that it doesn't calculate descends. It uses your flat speed for that, because descends are tricky. So you gain a bit over your virtual partner on descends. But if nothing else that's a nice confidence booster for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://connect.garmin.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://connect.garmin.com&lt;/a&gt; for uploading data&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridewithgps.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ridewithgps.com&lt;/a&gt; for better section analysis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com&lt;/a&gt; for great pre-ride routing capabilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If anyone knows of an alternative to bikeroutetoaster.com I'd be interested to hear about it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1268" LastEditorUserId="1268" LastEditDate="2011-09-05T12:26:11.467" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T12:26:11.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2011-03-23T11:34:10.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mostly use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikiloc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikiloc&lt;/a&gt;. You can find routes for different activities, visualize them in Google maps, open them in Google Earth and load them into your GPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T11:34:10.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2401" CreationDate="2011-03-23T13:34:04.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just ran across a line of holsters that look interesting.  Relatively low cost, so I may have to try one out to see how well it works.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pistolwear.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pistolwear.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorUserId="6757" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T04:59:03.567" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T04:59:03.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3267" CreationDate="2011-03-24T03:06:39.860" Score="17" ViewCount="70064" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything wrong with wearing mountain biking shoes (SPD) with a road bike? I find that it makes sense because you can still walk around with them on but you still have the ability to clip in and pull the pedal up like a normal road bike shoe would allow. Am I missing any aspect of the situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T14:33:50.287" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T13:53:56.357" Title="Can mountain biking shoes be used with road bikes? What are the pros and cons?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3266" CreationDate="2011-03-24T04:16:35.677" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear my MTB shoes with my road bike all the time. A number of the other guys in our group ride also do, nothing wrong with it at all. Road shoes are often stiffer than MTB shoes but not always. My SIDI's are just as stiff as the road version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T04:16:35.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3271" CreationDate="2011-03-24T14:38:06.813" Score="20" ViewCount="43337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought some SPD shoes and pedals last night and I was trying them out (on one foot) while balancing in my living room. I ended up falling over because I couldn't get unclipped. What suggestions do you have for breaking out of the clips? Do you simply twist your foot strongly to the outside or will that damage the cleats? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-27T02:41:29.697" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T18:43:38.410" Title="How to get my feet out of SPD pedals?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:04:29.833" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You aren't likely to damage anything that way. However, you may wish to adjust the tension of the cleat retention mechanism on the pedal to be a bit looser, especially since you're not yet practiced at clipping and unclipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is likely to be a small screw on each pedal that adjusts the tension of the spring...loosening it will make clipping in and out easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you may also want to tighten it back up once you become more used to the pedals and cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1273" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T15:04:29.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:06:01.673" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure the release tension is low at first (should be a little screw on face of pedal).  Generally you will get to a point of looseness where you are popping out unintentionally, go just tigher than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleat placement also can be a factor.  The closer to the toe it is, the easier it tends to be to get out.  Be careful about moving too far from the balls of your feet, it could end up with achy toes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, see if the sole of your shoe is interferring with the pedal.  If it is dragging, you can get little spacers that go between sole and cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about damaging the cleat, you will do more walking around on concrete.  Also, you will probably fall at least once while getting used to them.  It is almost a rite of passage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastEditorUserId="38270" LastEditDate="2020-09-27T18:10:06.503" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T18:10:06.503" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:53:27.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just practice - preferably on a soft surface!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to be a little more aware, especially in traffic, think a little further ahead about where/when you will have to stop so you can be unclipped as you stop at the light.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Suddenly braking to a halt and then having to stop and think before you unclip leads to falls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also get into the habit of always unclipping the same foot first - generally the kerb side - so it becomes automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T15:53:27.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2011-03-24T19:27:01.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might not damage the cleats, but you could tweak your calves - careful with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to adjusting  tension screws and cleats, dry lube can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1276" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T19:27:01.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-24T23:26:31.953" Score="9" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a recommendation from an experienced tourer to switch to Schwalbe Marathon Plus endurance tires during summer and Schwalbe Spike something during winter. I like the Marathon Plus tires, despite them being a bit slow, because I don't want to get a flat in locations called no-where. I am not interested about product recommendations but rather how can I know a good endurance tire for a certain touring location? If you know that a road is poor for the next 1000 kms, is it a good idea to switch to wider tires with greater volume? Is there any objective way to test a tire in a random shop? I have noticed that sometimes some LBSs have old tires but time-to-time it is hard to say. So how can I detect a good endurance tires if my favorite tires cannot be found? By it I mean that I want more objective ways to select tires rather than just brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T12:48:36.770" Title="Which endurance tires for touring?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2011-03-25T02:27:25.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently moved the clips twoards the back of the shoe (now, instead of being under the ball of my foot, they're 1 cm further back). I did that for other reasons but, coincidentally, I find them now much easier to unclip: now that the clip (about which I must pivot to unclip) is closer to the centre of my foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was trying them out (on one foot) while balancing in my living room&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold onto something, e.g. a vertical pipe, when you need to balance at a stand-still like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also people advised me to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice away from traffic (e.g. on a dedicated bike path) until I'd fallen off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice in winter (when I'm wearing a winter coat, when falling will hurt less)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T02:27:25.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3275" CreationDate="2011-03-25T02:44:01.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to judge the quality of a tire hanging on a rack in a bike shop.  Experience (including recommendations) is an important factor, since it takes 1000's of kms to put a tire to the test.  When deciding on a touring tire, buy a set to try out pre-tour.  You'll get an idea how they handle, how fast they wear, how puncture-resistant might be just by using them for everyday riding.  Then when you're ready for the big trip, put a fresh set on the bike and save the worn ones for when you get back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly wider tires will help on rough roads.  Thicker tires &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; last longer.  For puncture resistance, stay away from racing tires and look for ones with a kevlar belt (or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File%3aKevlarreifen.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;similar puncture protection layer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know the roads may be bad, plan ahead and get a wider set for the entire tour.  Don't plan to buy wider ones during the trip -- you never know what will be available when you get there.  Conversely, if you find yourself having to replace a tire while on tour, your options will likely be limited.  You'll just have to settle for what you can find.  (I once had to replace a split road bike tire in a small mountain biking town but only one shop carried my size -- an off-road knobby tire. Still better than a split one!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastEditorUserId="157" LastEditDate="2011-03-25T15:28:00.200" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T15:28:00.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3266" CreationDate="2011-03-25T11:20:26.323" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use my MTB shoes on my road bike using SPD pedals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have to buy extra shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are MTB shoes for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/clothing/shoes/product/mw80-shoes-33646/&quot;&gt;cold and wet weather&lt;/a&gt;, road shoes are nearly always designed for summer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't have to be a member of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Ministry_of_Silly_Walks&quot;&gt;ministry of silly walks&lt;/a&gt; to walk on using MTB shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T11:20:26.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2950" CreationDate="2011-03-25T13:06:36.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have no idea whether soy powder, for example, is available everywhere so perhaps you must substitute its protein with something else in different locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you can't &quot;find soy everywhere&quot;, other &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse_%28legume%29#Protein_content&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;legumes/pulses too are sources of protein&lt;/a&gt; (Wikipedia says they're nicknamed &quot;vegetarian's meat&quot;): including beans (of all kinds), peas, lentils, chick-peas, peanuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dried beans/lentils might therefore be worth considering: light-weight (because they're dried) and don't need refridgeration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, nuts (but these are more expensive, and fatty/high calorie).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I don't tour, so I'm not speaking from experience of touring; though I am vegetarian.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T13:06:36.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3281" CreationDate="2011-03-25T14:33:39.060" Score="8" ViewCount="2492" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently trying to find larger bikes for our kids aged 5 &amp;amp; 7. Oldest's next bike is going to be a struggle to fit in the back of the car (for various reasons they cycle to school in the morning and car it back in the evening, so this is important).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seemingly there are no kids' bikes with quick release wheels. Problem is most ebay sellers are rubbish at describing their bikes in detail so it's hard to tell what's on offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this because quick-release wheels in kids bikes are non-existant? If they exist, what brands should we be looking out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Ebay is where we go for children's bikes. There may be hard-core purists here who'll tell us to go to the nearest independent bike shop for the perfect bike and blow the cost, but there's so much value in second-hand kids bikes we can't justify buying new. Plus they so quickly grow on to the next one)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1033" LastEditorUserId="1033" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T23:12:12.350" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T23:12:12.350" Title="Quick release wheels on kids bikes?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;children&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3280" CreationDate="2011-03-25T15:39:32.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't think I've seen quick release on kids bikes, you could always use a wing-nut to make them quicker to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you looked at the racks that just clip onto the back of the car (trunk/boot)  - a lot quicker and easier than getting bikes into the back of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T15:39:32.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3295" CreationDate="2011-03-25T16:22:40.440" Score="2" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;My goal is to find a cheap energy sources for touring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot use solar all the time so I am planning to get Reelights outlined &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2871/dynamo-hub-lighting-system-recommendation&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, for lights, because they are cheaper than installing a hub generator. But the next problem is my laptop because it needs much more energy and I don't have much solar radiation at my latitude. I included the description about solar panel installation because I may need to use it with other energy sources which I am not aware of, perhaps gas, oil or something like that but they are expensive. So to the question: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which cheap energy sources would you use during touring with low amount of sun energy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One possible implementation to store energy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ten-watt solar panel (which weighs&#xA;  about a pound) lies on top of my&#xA;  panniers on the back of the bicycle (I&#xA;  carry my tent and sleeping bags in the&#xA;  front bags). As I ride, mostly in the&#xA;  sun, the panel produces current which&#xA;  runs through 12 5.7AH nicad cells,&#xA;  charging them during the day. After I&#xA;  stop for the night, I unplug the&#xA;  panel, and use the same plug to&#xA;  connect the battery to the computer&#xA;  via a Targus auto/air adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This setup requires me to carry the&#xA;  computer, an AC charger and the Targus&#xA;  DC charger, the solar panel, nicad&#xA;  cells and connector cord, a&#xA;  multimeter, and various nylon and&#xA;  plastic bags plus the computer case,&#xA;  with a total weight of seven pounds or&#xA;  less. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/touring/laptop.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suggestions, some of which may be a solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hub dynamo recommendations &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2871/dynamo-hub-lighting-system-recommendation&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for lighting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/1w-solar-panel-75x100-p-633.html?cPath=155&amp;amp;zenid=4b1a07633e6e18040020c4399b23bd55&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;solar panels&lt;/a&gt; for electronics projects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moz suggests &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2915/what-does-self-support-mean-during-touring/3004#3004&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; to carry a solar panel but not diamond-framed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amon suggests &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/631/how-can-i-charge-my-phone-while-cycling/640#640&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; a particularly interesting home-brew stuff that may lead to some kind of solution but with USB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Darkcanuck outlines the situation with different choices &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/631/how-can-i-charge-my-phone-while-cycling/650#650&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;: sun, AA/etc charger and dynamo charger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;solar-powered Laptop during touring, more &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/touring/laptop.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T21:51:43.823" Title="Cheap energy sources for electronics during touring with low amount of sun energy?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;electric-power&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3285" CreationDate="2011-03-25T21:29:50.907" Score="16" ViewCount="84212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a second hand road bike which doesn't have Quick Release Skewers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just buy a set of QR Skewers and fit them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they a standard size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any gotchas waiting to bite me if I do change to them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything specific I need to look for in order to change to QR Skewers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-25T22:21:06.977" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T07:45:04.117" Title="Can I just change straightforward wheel axles to QR skewers?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3283" CreationDate="2011-03-25T22:58:31.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The axles need to be hollow QR axles; if they're solid you obviously can't put the skewer through it. You can replace the axles as well, but that starts raising the complexity level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, skewers are basically standard. You'll need to get them in the correct lengths for front and rear.  For new, the Shimano ones are quite nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T22:58:31.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3283" CreationDate="2011-03-25T23:03:09.233" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if you intend to replace the axles themselves, but AFAIK, most nutted axles are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; hollow, which means they can't accommodate QR skewers. If this is true in your case, you will need to replace the &lt;strong&gt;axles&lt;/strong&gt; outright in order to use QR skewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;QR axles for modern hubs &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; come in a few &quot;standard&quot; sizes, but you will nevertheless want to measure the dimensions of your frame and hubs anyway, in case they are not standard. You mentioned your bike is second-hand, which indicates it might be older, in which case this is doubly so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three dimensions to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hub spacing&lt;/strong&gt; - This is the distance from the inside of one dropout to the other. You can measure this by removing the wheels from the frame and sticking a ruler in the dropouts. To replace the axles, you will need to find QR axles and skewers to match your hub spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the QR may be too short or too long for the hub. With non-QR axles, an axle that is too long is not a problem (the nuts will still go on fine, and if you need to, you can cut the excess axle), but with a QR axle, you can't really trim the axle, because the QR skewer can't be trimmed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, hub spacing on modern bikes is 100 mm (front) and between 120 and 130 mm (rear). Again, you should measure this yourself-- I'm just giving you an idea of what these numbers should be.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Axle diameter&lt;/strong&gt; - The QR axles you get should match the diameter of the existing axles so you can re-use the existing cups and locknuts (unless you were planning on replacing those, too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common axle diameters are between 8 to 10 mm, or 5/16&quot;, or 3/8&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thread pitch&lt;/strong&gt; - This is basically the angle of the threads on the axle. Like the diameter, this will need to match the existing axle if you want to re-use the cups. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/axles.html&quot;&gt;The Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;, thread pitch is measured in either threads per inch or millimeters per thread, with a 1 mm/thread pitch being equivalent to 25.4 TPI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common thread pitches include 1 mm/thread, 26 TPI, and (rarely) 24 TPI.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastEditorUserId="859" LastEditDate="2011-03-25T23:15:05.603" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T23:15:05.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2011-03-26T16:18:47.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice (as others have said) is to loose the tension, and with time adjust it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleat will wear naturally, don't worry about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just started using SPDs last week and when I tried (with an &quot;actual&quot; ride on the back of my house) it went very well, clipping in and out was so easy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until I made a stupid mistake, had the left foot uncliped and staning on the floor holding my weight, the bike was tipping over to the left side and I didn't even realise I had to twist my ancle and fell on my left shoulder. Not too painfull and a great lesson, I then spent about 30 minutes riding and clipping in and out a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe if I didn't fall down I wouldn't have payed as much attention as I did and wouldn't train the in and out, but as with anything else, it's a matter of practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2011-03-26T16:18:47.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3292" CreationDate="2011-03-27T15:29:54.950" Score="4" ViewCount="884" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend would like to buy a bicycle, though, she's marveled about these old Peugout &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_m.html#mixte&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mixte&lt;/a&gt; bicycles. These seem to be very hard to find. So, I am wondering if there can be found any modern bicycles that somehow match her  taste. Which brands should I search for, given that we're living in Europe (Portugal)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Finally, my girlfriend decided to get a Peugeut. She insisted that she wanted this and not any other bicycle. The reason for this choice was that the Peugeut is a city/road bike hybrid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder why aren't there manufacturers focusing on this mix anymore, specially for girls....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1290" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T01:33:37.647" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T01:33:37.647" Title="Modern Retro-design (Peugout-mixte) bicycle for girlfriend" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;europe&gt;&lt;mixte&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-27T16:40:55.993" Score="4" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started cycling to work every day. The bike I'm currently using is a mountain bike with a tiny frame and has begun to hurt my back. So, I'm looking to purchase something new. I'll be cycling around a city. My distance to and from work is a 25 mile round trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not looking to spend a gigantic amount of money. I'm wondering what type of bike I should be looking at? I really know very little about bikes so I'm sort of baffled by the many types e.g mountain bikes, hybrid bikes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you guys recommend? If it's any additional help I'm male and under 25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1291" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T02:16:54.063" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T23:13:15.150" Title="Need a well-fitted bike for urban commuting" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3289" CreationDate="2011-03-27T17:48:06.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is find the local bike shops (preferably locally owned, not large multinational chains) and look around and ask around there. Try to check multiple shops, not just the first one you find, since they may specialize and you may find some easier to work with. Try chatting with the staff; if they don't carry what you're looking for they may know who does or be able to order it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't speak Portuguese (or Spanish), it's difficult to see which bicycle companies distribute widely in your country. When I can figure out which ones have some kind of distribution into the general area, it doesn't necessarily mean that specific models make it into the country or into the local shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the major bicycle manufacturers make &quot;women's&quot; bicycles with a step-through frame, fewer of them make ones that are a true &quot;mixte&quot;, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here's a few attempts at mixtes that may be available in Portugal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.globebikes.com/us/en/globe/GlobeBike.jsp?pid=11LIVEmixte2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Globe Live Mixte&lt;/a&gt; -- their website looks like they distribute in Portugal. Globe is a sub-brand of Specialized.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/es-ES/bikes/model/via/8049/46093/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giant Via 2&lt;/a&gt; -- that's from the site for Spain, so likely also available in Portugal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/urban/eco_design/bellevillewsd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek Belleville WSD&lt;/a&gt; -- Trek does seem to distribute into Portugal. This one's my personal favorite mixte of the big manufacturers that I found.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can afford it, another option would be to talk to a local framebuilder and have a custom bicycle made. I expect that almost any framebuilder could make a mixte (but they might have to special order some parts they don't keep stocked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T17:48:06.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3290" CreationDate="2011-03-27T18:18:13.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you hadn't mentioned &quot;tiny frame&quot; and back pain, I'd agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/427/mgb&quot;&gt;mgb&lt;/a&gt; about minor changes to your existing bike instead of getting a new one.  It sounds like you need a bike that fits you and you have a bike that's too small. There might be a few things that could be adjusted to make a too-small bike work better, but it's likely you're better off getting a new bike that fits right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had a similar (not duplicate, I think) question a while back asking about a very similar round-trip distance, etc, you might find reading the question, answers and comments there helpful: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2767/what-bikeequipment-for-a-long-daily-urban-commute&quot;&gt;What bike+equipment for a long daily urban commute?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;hybrid&quot; is a bicycle with smooth (road) tires and flat (mountain bike) style handlebars. There's a lot of subtypes that are also &quot;hybrids&quot; such as &quot;commuter&quot;, &quot;urban&quot;, etc. A lot of them are actually very similar to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you describe, I think a good option for you would be a basic &quot;commuter&quot; with smooth tires, flat handlebars and the option to easily add a rack and fenders. It will have handlebars like what you're used to, but roll better (and faster) on roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a similar length commute and went with a &quot;touring&quot; bike. (basically a heavy duty road bike designed to be able to carry plenty of cargo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower-end &quot;cyclocross&quot; bikes can make really good commuter bikes once you replace the tires. Cyclocross bikes are like road bikes with knobby tires (and often disc brakes). The lower end ones often have the stuff for mounting a rack and/or fenders on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things to note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider drop handlebars (road bike) because the choice of handlebar positions can help keep your hands from getting tired on long rides. If you don't like them don't worry about it, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would avoid any kind of suspension (some &quot;comfort&quot; hybrids have some). They don't do you much good on roads and on a cheaper bike it will just add weight and add one more thing that could break. Stand on the pedals with elbows and knees slightly bent when you see rough patches ahead instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A big heavily cushioned seat can be tempting, but will tend to press into the muscles that you're using to pedal, press into sensitive areas, and rub against things. A lightly padded seat that's just wide enough that you're sitting on it with your pelvic bones will be better for long rides even if it takes a little while to get used to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try out the bikes. Most shops will let you try a quick ride around the block or something like that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T18:18:13.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-27T18:48:01.370" Score="7" ViewCount="3052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to ride again after a couple of years of not doing any sports at all. I dimly remember some stretching exercises back from school, but I don't know if I'm doing it right at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of listing what I'm doing and asking for &quot;correct, yes/no&quot;, I'd like to know how exactly one should prepare for a bike tour. I'm currently doing small tours (20km) to get used to it again, but plan to go bigger during summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a few minutes ago I stumbled upon the following article, explaining a few stretching exercises. Unfortunately, it's focused on running, and I believe that there aren't exactly the same muscles involved.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://apbrwww5.apsu.edu/matthewsf/running/running%20pdfs/hal%20higdon/hal%20higdon%20stretching.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Five Fantastic Stretching Exercises&lt;/a&gt; (pdf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article also mentions a cool-down phase, which I don't remember at all from school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to conclude: How should I warm up, how long, what stretching exercises should I do, and when? How should the cool down be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1292" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T07:31:59.093" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T12:02:23.333" Title="How to warm up / stretch and cool down?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3282" CreationDate="2011-03-27T21:51:43.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you add the robust stand you were talking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3040/what-kinds-of-kickstands-are-good-for-touring&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; it should be possible to pedal the bike on the stand. Even pedalling gently will give you 50-100W of mechanical power that you can use to spin a small generator. I suggest looking for a dead RC toy and using the motor from that, since they often use that level of power. Ideally drive it from the chain rather than the tyre, but focus on making it work to start with. A little work on voltage conversion should give you enough power to charge the laptop fairly quickly, and with a little work you could even use it while pedalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise a hub dyno. A decent bottle dyno will not be much cheaper but will need more maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T21:51:43.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2011-03-27T22:10:59.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just two bits of advice from me. First, make sure that the cleat is &lt;strong&gt;tight&lt;/strong&gt; on the shoe. If you twist your ankle, and the cleat rotates in the shoe, that will not end well. Second, and I'm the only one I know who does this, I find it much easier to rotate my ankle in (towards the bike) than out. Maybe it's the way my leg and/or hips are built. Who knows? I do know, though, that it is much easier for me personally, and I have no problem getting in/out of my pedals in a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as everyone else said, &quot;Practice!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T22:10:59.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3294" CreationDate="2011-03-27T22:55:04.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amusingly &lt;a href=&quot;http://library.thinkquest.org/10615/frames/cycling/warm-up.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I do something&lt;/a&gt; very close to the first result I &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com.au/search?q=bicycle%20warm%20up%20stretch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;found in google&lt;/a&gt;. Perhaps it's a fairly standard set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key one for me and other cycle tourists I've seen is the quad stretch. Cycling tends to shorten your quads which pulls your kneecaps out of position resulting in the classic knee pains. So those stretches are as important for us as for runners. So I do quad stretches at least twice a day, usually whenever I get on or off the bike, and a proper stretching session most days. I do an aikido stretch warmup (without most of the wrist/hand stretches) because that gets everything going and I'm used to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't already have a program I suggest looking at yoga or tai chi to put some structure into your stretches. I do my aikido set because I'm used to it and it reminds me to practice akido when I'm on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T22:55:04.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2000" CreationDate="2011-03-28T15:36:27.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although they are very rare, we even occasionally see &quot;fixed gear&quot; bikes with no brakes whatever.  The panic-stop routine is either to try pedal-back-pressure or to press the soles of your feet against the tires.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lunacy, but I don't know of any law against it locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T15:36:27.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3294" CreationDate="2011-03-28T15:42:03.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stretching has become somewhat controversial among exercise physiologists.   I listened to one such lady on NPR's Science Friday a couple of months ago, and she said that the university she worked out of had conducted a number of fairly extensive tests and surveys indicating that very little benefit accrued from this practice.&#xA;Other than that it felt kind of good. Wired's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/2010/10/forget-pre-exercise-stretching/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pre-Exercise Stretching Is Killing Your Workout&lt;/a&gt; article discusses such studies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never bothered with pre-ride stretching.  In fact, the standard wisdom is that one should first warm up and THEN stretch.&#xA;Ride slowly, let the legs get used to spinning and the arms used to bearing a bit of weight before increasing your pace.&#xA;I used to stretch post-ride; the standard quad and hamstrings stretches and also calf-muscle stretches by standing with my toes on a stair and letting body-weight stretch the calf... But I admit I hardly bother anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T07:32:02.380" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T07:32:02.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2011-03-28T15:47:19.730" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go over to Bikeforums, and look in the &quot;mechanics&quot; section for chain-lube threads, you'll note that they go on and on and on and get downright cranky...&#xA;People with their own home-concocted recipies, folks favoring waxes over oils, folks who use magic spells.. (well, not really but you get the idea)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a quandary.  The ideal chain lube would go on like water, penetrate deep into the rollers, then set up like a nice, thick grease which would also act like a wax and not attract dirt and would prevent rust and.....&#xA;I don't think it exists.&#xA;Waxes don't attract dirt much, but they fall off.&#xA;Greases don't get into the innards of the chain unless you heat 'em up and immerse the chain, and they attract dirt like magnets.&#xA;I tend to use commercial lubes which at least penetrate well and set up to some degree, and I do a thorough cleaning as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T15:47:19.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3283" CreationDate="2011-03-28T15:50:43.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing solid with hollow axles can be done, but as noted above the dimensions must be exactly right.  As well, you will have to completely take down the hubs and re-establish the bearing adjustments.  Normally, if you have the hubs apart, you'd be advised to replace the bearings, as it's standard mechanic's practice not to re-use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T15:50:43.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-28T16:49:10.957" Score="3" ViewCount="3852" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know if there may be in commerce anything similar to the roadbook holders they use on offroad motorbikes, but for use on bicycles?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are some electronic versions in commerce that include a GPS system, but I was looking for a cheaper solution (possibly smaller than the one below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a sample: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilt8E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;manual roadbook holder&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An installed roadbook:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjr4P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;roadbook&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="711" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T17:54:46.840" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T17:54:46.840" Title="Is there anything similar to motorbike roadbook holders for bicycles?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2011-03-28T17:09:21.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen anything quite that complicated for directions on a bicycle. I think that the lower speeds on a bicycle compare to a motorcycle make simpler solutions fine.  If you've got a very long trip, plan breaks where you stop to coincide with when you need to flip the directions around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just stick the directions in a pocket. With some careful folding you can fit quite a bit of directions on something in your pocket. Note the distance and directions for the next turn after you make the turn instead of fumbling in your pocket before the turn. Something you're going to hold in your hand can be printed smaller than something that's going on the handlebars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for a &quot;map case&quot;. This is a flat bag that attached on the handlebars somehow with one side all transparent. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/cyco-active-map-case/20-058&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt; Commonly available for 10-20 USD.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make your own map case. A gallon (4 liter) ziploc bag will let you show almost a full size piece of paper.  Use some binder clips or something like that to attach it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a handlebar bag that has a map case on top. While not smaller, you might mind the size less if it fits your cellphone, some snacks, etc...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T17:09:21.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3310" CreationDate="2011-03-28T18:48:01.890" Score="4" ViewCount="3084" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the term &lt;code&gt;consumable metallic parts&lt;/code&gt; I mean things such as derailleur pulleys, chains and cassettes. I have met tourers that suggested me cooking oil for cleaning the metallic parts, more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2903/how-to-maintain-chains-during-touring/3037#3037&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The irony is that this frugal question ignited the tip but I am starting to feel cooking oil is not necessarily frugal, the oil is binned at the end (loss). My answer contains a cleaning way for about 0.1-0.5EUR. So how can I clean the parts more cheaply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cooking oil used to clean chains -answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2903/how-to-maintain-chains-during-touring/3037#3037&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;substitutes for chain lubricants -question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2703/are-there-substitutes-for-chain-lubricant&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T01:43:38.293" Title="How to clean consumable metallic parts cheaply while touring?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3283" CreationDate="2011-03-28T19:08:04.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an alternative system called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axlerelease.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Axle Release&lt;/a&gt; available that puts a special nut on each side of the axle, which looks like a quick release lever. Both are done/undone to install the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhK2o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhK2o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.axlerelease.com/uploads/images/big/1301192770_2.jpg from website&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;You can see how it is installed in this video&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/22DpNl-ImWU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-05-10T07:45:04.117" LastActivityDate="2017-05-10T07:45:04.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1326" CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:12:43.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clicking from the back wheel while pedaling can come from the drivetrain. Specifically, it can come from a &quot;stretched&quot; chain and/or worn rear cogs. The worn parts no longer mesh together correctly and can make a clicking sound while pedaling, particularly when you push hard on the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For information on measuring chain &quot;stretch,&quot; see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/874/problem-with-chain-skipping-but-not-trying-to-shift/875#875&quot;&gt;Problem with chain `skipping` (but not trying to shift)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2787/how-to-know-when-to-change-a-chain&quot;&gt;How to know when to change a chain?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more likely to happen on frequently-used or smaller cogs (fewer teeth across which to spread wear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't apply to your new bike, but users with older bikes who happen upon this question may find this helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1277" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T20:12:43.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:39:47.687" Score="2" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Strida 5.2 and absolutely love the greaseless experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ordinary chain bikes, when could a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/freedrive-chain-cover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Biologic FreeDrive Chain Cover&lt;/a&gt; be used without causing troubles, but only provide a cleaner ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vRbv6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T21:51:05.173" Title="For what kind of bike and under what riding conditions would a Biologic FreeDrive Chain Cover be suitable?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;belt-drive&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3294" CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:49:08.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't stretch (static stretching) prior to riding at all. For commuting, I do nothing; but for a long ride or fast fitness ride, I will do a dynamic warm-up. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/2008/11/02/sports/playmagazine/112pewarm.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;good article about stretching&lt;/a&gt; from a while back in the New York Times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pre-ride - I do an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/116739-upper-body-dynamic-stretches/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;upper body dynamic stretching/warm-up routine&lt;/a&gt; similar to this one. Why? Mainly to avoid neck and shoulder pain during the ride. I don't do any pre-ride exercises for the lower body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride - I start out slow to warm up. For the first 10 - 15 minutes of the ride I ride slowly in order to get my legs and hips warmed up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post-ride - If you want to do &lt;em&gt;static stretching&lt;/em&gt;, this is the time to do that. Mainly, because this is the time when your muscles are warm. Lower body stretches would be things like hamstring, quad, hip, and calf stretches. Upper body stretches would be shoulder, neck and back stretches. Basically, if you have &lt;em&gt;tight muscles&lt;/em&gt; after a ride, it may very well be therapeutic to stretch those muscles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T16:58:41.607" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T16:58:41.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2011-03-28T21:51:05.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say &quot;when there's no rain, mud or grit on your route&quot;. That thing looks as though it's designed to collect any loose material that falls into the open lower section and make sure it stays on your chain forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recumbents commonly use sections of poly pipe (cheap black flexible plastic pipe) to cover their very long exposed sections of chain, and that works fairly well. You could do the same on the shorter chain of an upright and get most of the benefit of the solution above without the penalty. Easier with a singlespeed or hub geared bike, but possible with derailleurs (the attachments need to be flexible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T21:51:05.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2011-03-29T00:05:04.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kerosene isn't bad... Low flash point and reasonably safe.  (BBQ starter fluid) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I admit I've used gasoline... It's a wonderful solvent.  I don't smoke...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T00:05:04.453" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2011-03-29T01:08:56.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's nothing like the machine above available for bikes that I'm aware of. That holder looks pretty nifty, if heavy. Before I got an Ortlieb map case, I made my own map holders with office supplies: Plastic sheet protectors, duct tape, and velcro (to keep it on the handlebar). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I experimented with using a paper clip on the side to mark my place, but it turned out to be just as much work to fiddle with the paper clip as it was to just find my place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freiheit's point about bicycle travel being slower is a good one. Generally, you don't need to think more than two or three turns ahead on a bike, and usually just one or two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some time, I was using text output from Bikely and pasting it into a spreadsheet, where I could manipulate the columns, format the text, and print out cue sheets on any size paper I needed; I usually made a map holder every few months, and would often improve the design to be simpler. The best ones used 8 1/2&quot; wide paper, requiring less trimming on my part. (That's what the Ortlieb holder uses.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scroll-style cue sheet seen above looks pretty handy, but I suspect that making one for a bicycle would be more trouble than its worth; you'd have to tape pieces of paper together to make the cur sheet. When I had access to a laminating machine, I used it to make half-sheet (8.5x5.5) cue sheets that I could swap out in the rain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jury-rigged cue sheet holder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/921091686/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u3Ta8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cue sheet I wrote up on the road in a bike shop, using the back of a &quot;real&quot; cue sheet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/4652606349/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tqdvM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T01:08:56.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2011-03-29T06:01:20.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I just use the map case on a handlebar bag (needs to be oriented properly to work), but here's a clever DIY solution by Raymond Parker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ULDON.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Handy Rando Route Sheet Caddy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically it's a piece of wire bent to prop the cue sheet at the right angle.  Put your sheet in a waterproof case or ziplock and a couple of binder clips hold it in place.  A shock cord keeps the whole assembly in place.  Full instructions here:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://veloweb.ca/garagepages/sheetholder.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://veloweb.ca/garagepages/sheetholder.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T06:01:20.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3304" CreationDate="2011-03-29T13:51:28.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can see below how I cleaned my cassette with grocery store stuff like cooking oil and hand-cleaner. It worked very well but I used about 0.2-0.5 liter cooking oil, material cost perhaps 0.1-0.5EUR (but very dirty cassette and I think I could use less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brush was going to bin, reuse at the best. Cost = 0. The other side of the brush is hacked to  clean some in-between parts, you need a knife for it, again cost = 0. I used also a braking cable to some parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/guxRo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a braking cable to get the dirt between the cogs and other places, worked well, needless to buy expensive Par.* plastic things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sau3L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture before final cleaning where it became like new but good comparison to new one. Sorry different products actually, the old cassette is done with dimmer metal and a bit heavier. On the surface, you can see the cooking oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qZEym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the cooking oil off can be a hurdle, you don't want it while riding because it will go rancid more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2703/are-there-substitutes-for-chain-lubricant/2718#2718&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. If your hands stand or you have hand-protections, you may want to try cloth-cleaning-stuff, cheap bulk grocery store stuff. I have tried it and it is a bit more effective to hand-cleaner stuff to take the oil out, particularly with running hot water. But if you cannot take the cooking oil off, even with hand-cleaner, cloth-cleaner, running water and brushing, for some odd reason you may want to try the petroleum products suggested by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3304/how-to-clean-consumable-metallic-parts-cheaply-in-a-bike/3310#3310&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. I have never used petroleum products but they should work but maybe too expensive in your location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooking oil has transformed the initial salty-dirty-bad-stuff to easier cooking-oil-mess. I am still uncertain to which extent the cooking oil can be bad to the chain particularly if left rancid, perhaps no worry at all if you can take the most of it out and perhaps it will go out when you ride some kms, anyway working well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T14:34:19.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3318" CreationDate="2011-03-29T17:33:17.680" Score="3" ViewCount="12404" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it will shift to a higher gear, but it takes two clicks of the shifter and it skips over a gear when it does shift. With one click the chain hangs on the current gear by the slimmest if threads. It's quite amazing really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a new derailleur, a Shimano RD-M410 Alivio SGS, on a cog set that predates index shifting. Could that be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried adjusting the barrel adjuster, but that doesn't seem to have any effect (on this problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I put bar-end shifters on the bike, so the cable seems a bit short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cog set has 7 gears, but the shifter has 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1303" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T17:27:49.137" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T17:27:49.137" Title="Adjusting rear derailleur - shifts to lower gear, but not to higher" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3314" CreationDate="2011-03-29T18:00:25.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it solidly engage in the cogs on either end of that mis-shift?  It sounds plainly to be like a mis-indexed cable.  You should be able to shift into that 'barely-not-shifting' position and then loosen the barrel adjuster to cause it to index into place.  If that's not happening, your barrel adjuster may have stripped threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T18:00:25.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3314" CreationDate="2011-03-29T18:46:53.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps your shifter cable can't slide smoothly. Shift to the tallest gear (smallest cog). Pop the shifter housing out of the brazed-on stops. Slide the housing back and forth and look for stiffness. Put some lube in the housing and slide it back and forth to distribute it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps your derailleur hanger is bent. A bike shop will have a tool to easily check its alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If either of these is a factor, then you will never be able to adjust your shifting properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T18:46:53.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3314" CreationDate="2011-03-29T19:59:06.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest starting from scratch.  First,shift onto the highest(smallest) cog and  release the cable from the DR (derailleur).  Hold the end of the cable and make sure it's moving positively each time you operate the shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, make sure you've moved the shifter back to it's highest-gear position and re-attach.  Make sure there is no slack in the cable at this point... It should feel taut but not tight when pulled away from the frame.&#xA;Now, cycle the shifter through it's travel; it should be very close at this point.  If there is any hesitation in jumping from one cog to another, you should tighten the barrel adjuster just a quarter turn or so at a time till you get clean shifts.&#xA;I'm going to assume at this point that being a new-ish bike, the stop screws on the DR do not need to be adjusted.&#xA;Naturally, if the chain falls off either end of the cassette that's not the case...&#xA;Oh, while you're down there, make sure the DR hanger (the little bit sticking from the frame that the DR screws into) is straight.&#xA;Sometimes those replaceable aluminum hangers are very soft and bend easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T19:59:06.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3314" CreationDate="2011-03-29T23:08:58.227" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not above easy points!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T01:34:07.473" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T01:34:07.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3314" CreationDate="2011-03-29T23:33:03.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much clearance do you have between the top pulley on the derailleur and the cogs? It's unlikely to happen on all cogs, but if there's not enough clearance between cog and pulley you won't be able to shift down. You will usually hear the pulley running along the cassette when this happens. This is usually fixed by removing a link from your chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the above answers are much more likely to fix your problem. Broadly, if there's too much friction in the cable the spring in the derailleur won't be powerful enough to shift properly. You can test for this by pulling the derailleur out while shifting, and if the extra force from your hand makes it shift then this is the issue. Fix it by putting lightweight lube in the cable (solvent-based chain lube works well), or installing new cable and housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often this would also happen with a worn out derailleur, but since yours is new that's not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T23:33:03.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3314" CreationDate="2011-03-30T03:28:52.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using 8-speed bar end shifters with a 7-speed casette, I have an alternate solution for you.  Many bar end shifters (for the rear derailleur only) can be switched from indexed mode to friction mode.  That would allow you to shift smoothly without any peculiar cable routings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your shifter does this, it will have a screw (typically with a handle) just on the left side.  Unscrew it a few turns and you will notice the shifter indexing gets &quot;softer&quot;.  After about 3-5 full turns the indexing should disappear completely and the lever action becomes smooth.  Instant friction shifter! (should work with any number of rear cogs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T03:28:52.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3294" CreationDate="2011-03-30T10:50:12.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than that you used to do it at school, is there a particular reason you think you should stretch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like yourself, I remember a few stretching exercises from when I was at school. When I started riding my bike to work, I did what I could remember after every ride. When I joined a club and started doing longer rides (upward of 50 miles) I found it was essential for me to stretch, because if I didn't I would get painful cramp in my hamstrings sitting on the sofa later in the day. However, I recently stopped stretching and focused on keeping hydrated during and after my rides, which has had the same effect of preventing cramp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warm up by taking it easy at the start of the ride; spin at a high cadence in a low gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T10:50:12.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3327" CreationDate="2011-03-31T03:11:05.150" Score="10" ViewCount="21640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was at my local bike dump looking for a spare set of wheels for an older bike I have.  He said that they have lots of steel wheels but very few aluminum.  Whats the deal on this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between steel and aluminum wheels?  Why are aluminum wheels more desirable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T01:23:47.207" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T13:59:12.350" Title="Steel vs. Aluminum Wheels" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3330" CreationDate="2011-03-31T03:12:23.853" Score="6" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about getting a front rack for when I am doing some touring.  What should I look for when determining if it will fit.  Steel or aluminum?  Better styles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-22T03:26:37.417" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T03:26:37.417" Title="How to choose a front rack" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2011-03-31T13:41:41.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, Al will be lighter, and I think I read somewhere that steel rims get really slick when wet (this is assuming that you are using rim brakes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T13:41:41.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2011-03-31T14:01:47.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;sillyyak is right.  The weight of wheels makes a big difference.  I've had (in the distant past) scary moments when not able to stop as fast as I'd like when braking on steel when it is wet. I notice a huge improvement in stopping in the rain on aluminum.  On bike forums ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-449632.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-449632.html&lt;/a&gt; )  everyone says aluminum is superior for weight and in the rain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Alu wheels are a major, major improvement you can make to an old bike for not much cost. Better braking, especially in rain, and much lighter and faster. Used to be, steel wheels were much cheaper to make than alu ones. Nowadays, all wheels (basically) are alu, so even cheap alu ones will be a lot better than what you've got. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and so does this girl:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://simplybike.wordpress.com/2010/09/29/steel-vs-aluminum-wheels/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://simplybike.wordpress.com/2010/09/29/steel-vs-aluminum-wheels/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;on rainy days, it makes a world of a difference. This is what has brought me to ride the aluminum wheeled Grand Prix to work more often – it can stop quickly and efficiently in the rain. The steel rims do stop, but it sometimes is difficult to come to a complete stop on wet roads, and it feels more like a slowing down than a breaking. I squeeze on the brakes as hard as I can and the bike still rolls forward a little more than it should. The roadbike with the aluminum wheels, by comparison,  presents no such problem. Breaking with the aluminum wheels on wet roads feels much like it does on dry roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastEditorUserId="1116" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T00:25:23.400" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T00:25:23.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3290" CreationDate="2011-03-31T14:39:32.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;do you wear a backpack to carry your stuff?  A heavy backpack causes back pain for me regardless of how well the bike fits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a gigantic amount of money to you?  You will have to determine your budget and then do some shopping.  Start with friends and family.  A lot of people have unused bikes sitting around that could be tuned up and fitted to you.  Check police auctions, local craigslist, REI, and local bike shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T14:39:32.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2011-03-31T15:58:18.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel has been the standard for cheap bikes for a very long time.  Weight is a prime factor, as noted above.  In addition, steel rusts.... If you go to someplace where lots of bikes are parked outside for any length of time, like the university where I work, you can pick out the cheap bikes instantly by the nasty rust that starts forming with great speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really cheap bikes have as much steel as possible; even the wheel hubs and such will be made of that material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T15:58:18.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2011-03-31T19:05:08.073" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel makes for a heavier rim; the modern-box section design works well for taking advantage of aluminum's lower density.  Furthermore, since steel will rust, the rims are typically chrome-plated.  The chrome plating makes rim brakes almost useless in the wet, which is exacerbated by the poor pads used on most of the classic bikes that shipped with steel wheels. In contrast, steel rims are almost indestructible - they can be bent out of shape and re-bent repeatedly and will wear much longer than aluminum rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your specific case, many older bike-boom era bicycles were built with &quot;Schwinn&quot;-sized wheels, ISO 590 or ISO 597, both labeled as 26 x 1 3/8&quot;.  As far as I know no manufacturer makes aluminum rims in that size, so finding a replacement wheel for an older bike usually means either getting new brakes and converting it to a modern size (ISO 559 or ISO 584) or finding an old wheel that's not too beat up.  The latter is usually pretty easy, cheap bikes ship with steel wheels that are often simply discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T19:05:08.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="318" CreationDate="2011-03-31T21:09:34.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrist supporter (Either ACE bandage or one of those velcro slip-ons with a hard thing inside; one you use for roller blading)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T21:09:34.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3323" CreationDate="2011-03-31T22:59:45.543" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First decide what you want the rack to do. There are a few styles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/Tara/TARA%20PAGE.htm&quot;&gt;lowrider&lt;/a&gt; which hold panniers low down each side of your front wheel. Great for stability and load carrying ability but poor ground clearance. Most common rack for tourists on diamond frame bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclinglife.com/howto/heavydutyracks.htm&quot;&gt;platform&lt;/a&gt; looks just like a standard rear rack, but over the front wheel. Great for strapping a tent or something lightweight on top as well as a couple of panniers. Less stable but more ground clearance. Occasionally used by mountain bike tourists.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sweetnourishingbikes.blogspot.com/2006/07/diy-porteur-rack.html&quot;&gt;porteur&lt;/a&gt; is a platform rack without pannier mounts, usually much larger than a platform rack. Occasionally extends up to the handlebars. Still mounted to the fork rather than the frame, so weight on these racks has a dramatic affect on stability. Uncommon for tourists, more an urban load carrying rack (often used by postal services).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hembrow.eu/frontrack.html&quot;&gt;frame mounted&lt;/a&gt;. Usually similar to a porteur rack but attached to the frame. Much more stable but now you get interference with cables and handlebars when you try to turn. On a diamond frame bike these usually attach to the down tube and headset. Rare. The real hard-core end, but usually if you're going to this length you'll build a load-carrying bike instead. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hembrow.eu/frontrack.html&quot;&gt;David Hembrow&lt;/a&gt; sells both frame and fork mounted porteur racks (the frame mount ones are not easy to find outside of Europe).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest looking mostly at low-riders, and I think the Tubus Tara is the one to get if you can afford it. In general, aluminium will be cheaper but not last as long, and racks built using both materials should weigh about the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to build your own &lt;a href=&quot;http://alexwetmore.org/?cat=298&quot;&gt;Alex Wetmore&lt;/a&gt; has a useful series of blog posts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-03-31T23:06:04.867" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T23:06:04.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3290" CreationDate="2011-03-31T23:13:15.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a decent ride. If you're not too worried about speed I really liked riding a older steel frame road bike. Slightly wider tires and some tooth on the tread. The steel frame is heavier and takes the potholes better than a lighter bike. Buy used (but not Craigslist, they're too often stolen). There's usually a bikeshop or DYI wrench place (here in LA we have the Bike Oven) around rebuilding older bikes. I was on a Raleigh from 1980 for a couple of years, chain guard, gen light, rack, etc. and it was a great commuter. Pay attention to your wheels and the frame size. You need true wheels and a good posture to ride that many miles a week as a commuter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1308" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T23:13:15.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3333" CreationDate="2011-04-01T12:44:38.017" Score="4" ViewCount="530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 20 year old Cannondale mountainbike (model # scratched off long ago). It's been used as a daily commuter for a few years and for a couple long trips. I've been told that the original chainring and cassette need to be replaced but I don't know anything about sizing and compatibility. How do I go about choosing replacement parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1310" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T13:55:23.460" Title="Chainring and cassette compatible?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3332" CreationDate="2011-04-01T13:55:23.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming Shimano components.... You shouldn't have any difficulty with compatibility.  However, as noted above, you need to find out if you have a cassette/freehub or a freewheel.&#xA;At 20 years old I imagine you're looking at a freehub...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And likely 7 speeds.   If you want to go to a more-modern 8-speed cassette, the spacing should be the same but you'd need new shifters.&#xA;The crank may or may not have replaceable chainrings, and if it does they may not be easy to find.  Nashbar used to sell a wide variety of chainring sizes and bolt-patterns, but current catalogues do not show these.&#xA;Likely available from outlets like Loose Screws.&#xA;Note that some cranks may appear to have replaceable chainrings but they are in fact permanently attached and you have to replace the whole crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T13:55:23.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-01T16:34:57.143" Score="14" ViewCount="989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to find any usable statistics but from my observation of cycle commuters men appear to out-number women by around 10:1 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in a relatively bike friendly city, at least by North American standards (Vancouver Canada).  In my office, a downtown mixed office building, there are no women commuters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many more women cycling in road clubs at the weekend and lots of women committed to cycling groups and promoting cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason why women don't commute by bike and is there anything that can be done to boost the numbers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(rephrased to make this a more useful question - rather than a friday afternoon thing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T17:14:23.543" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T17:14:23.543" Title="...why do male cycle commuters outnumber females?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;canada&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2011-04-01T20:03:40.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect there are a lot of factors.  One factor I know from why my wife and her friends don't ride:  It really hurts their crotches!  Obviously, not every woman has this problem as I see lots of women riding bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other reasons I can only speculate:  Gender roles demanding that women look more put together and this requires more infrastructure than is available at most work places.  Obviously from looking at pictures from European cities, this can be overcome too, if it is even a real reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T20:03:40.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2011-04-01T20:09:43.017" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, Scientific American had &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=getting-more-bicyclists-on-the-road&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article&lt;/a&gt; about this a few years ago. According to the article, which cites a few studies, women are less comfortable with on-road biking than men, particularly in areas with auto traffic. As most roads are primarily for auto use, women tended to find routes which avoid these roads, making commuting a bit more difficult for them. The studies here in American show a 2:1 ratio of men to women cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“If you want to know if an urban environment supports cycling, you can forget about all the detailed ‘bikeability indexes’—just measure the proportion of cyclists who are female,” says Jan Garrard, a senior lecturer at Deakin University in Melbourne, Australia, and author of several studies on biking and gender differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Women are considered an “indicator species” for bike-friendly cities for several reasons. First, studies across disciplines as disparate as criminology and child ­rearing have shown that women are more averse to risk than men. In the cycling arena, that risk aversion translates into increased demand for safe bike infrastructure as a prerequisite for riding. Women also do most of the child care and household shopping, which means these bike routes need to be organized around practical urban destinations to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T03:24:03.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3435" CreationDate="2011-04-01T20:26:26.640" Score="4" ViewCount="1734" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought Shimano PD-M545 pedals and Mavic Alpine All Mountain Shoes (links below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-m545-free-ride-pedals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano M545 Free Ride Pedals&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/mavic-alpine-all-mountain-shoes/?&amp;amp;source=MaxiFeed&amp;amp;id=5360056181&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mavic Alpine All Mountain Shoes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did do some research and &quot;think&quot; I got the best thing for me for the money I had, and that they work together, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/commuting/gear/category/clothing/shoes/product/alpine-shoes-42675/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike radar says they are SPD type shoes&lt;/a&gt;.  They seemed to look right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They arrived today and I sat down to try and fit the cleats to the shoe.  My problem is the 4 screws that came with the pedals are larger than the screw holes in the sole of the shoes.  It almost looks like there is an inner screw hole in the shoe, (but I could be wrong).  It doesn't seem like it should be a complicated process.. Have I bought the wrong shoes, being completely stupid or missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any and all help, (this is my first time with any clipless shoe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-04-01T20:51:22.217" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T18:14:12.817" Title="Shimano PF-M545 pedals Mavic Alpine All Mountain Shoes how to fit the cleats" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3345" CreationDate="2011-04-01T20:52:50.110" Score="9" ViewCount="12352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek 3900 mountain bike with disc brakes, and I just took it out of winter storage to start riding it for the season.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Everything works well, except for one very annoying problem: when I stop the disc brakes make an extremely loud obnoxious squealing sound. Any ideas of what is causing this?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1313" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T00:34:43.513" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T09:02:30.240" Title="Disc brakes squeak on Trek mountain bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3341" CreationDate="2011-04-01T21:33:34.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the pads. You just might have some oil or moisture there. Cleaning them with a bit of rubbing alcohol or a specific disc brake cleaner might clear it up for you. Clean the rotors, too. If that doesn't help, you can try replacing the pads, but in my experience if your pads are clean and you're still getting noise from disc brakes, your caliper might need realignment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastEditorUserId="907" LastEditDate="2011-04-02T18:41:52.523" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T18:41:52.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2011-04-01T21:44:49.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add, based on mgb's comment. Portland has an active, politically involved cycling culture. The cycling culture drives many of the infrastructure improvements in this city. So it's bottom up rather than top down. Just because a city creates bike lanes, etc. doesn't mean that people will start riding bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that a lot of it has to do with &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;infrastructure&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in a given city. I live in Portland, Oregon, where our cycling infrastructure is good and getting better. There are many women on my commuting routes throughout the year. A lot has to do with bike lanes, bike boulevards, bike/walker paths transit accommodations, lane markings, and massive PR. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can provide more info later, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transportation_in_Portland,_Oregon#Cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a tidbit from Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-04-01T22:22:35.440" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T22:22:35.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2011-04-02T01:42:37.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;why are almost all cycle commuters male techies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not just commuters but cyclists generally: more cyclists are male.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycling-inform.com/positioning-and-bike-fit/222-special-considerations-when-fitting-woman-to-bicycles-sensitive-issues-part-1&quot;&gt;http://www.cycling-inform.com/positioning-and-bike-fit/222-special-considerations-when-fitting-woman-to-bicycles-sensitive-issues-part-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycling-inform.com/positioning-and-bike-fit/223-special-considerations-when-fitting-woman-to-bicycles-sensitive-issues-part-2&quot;&gt;http://www.cycling-inform.com/positioning-and-bike-fit/223-special-considerations-when-fitting-woman-to-bicycles-sensitive-issues-part-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above links blame bike fit, for one, saying that the typical bike is more fitted for a man.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T01:42:37.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3341" CreationDate="2011-04-02T05:45:24.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easy thing to check is whether the pads have got a little damp while you weren't riding it. The solution there is to ride it a bit. If the noise bothers you try riding with the brake slightly on to heat it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately that conflicts with the other problem: if there's oil on the rotor you should clean it immediately and avoid using the brake until you can clean it (to avoid getting oil in the pads because they're hard to clean). Wipe the rotor with either disk cleaner or rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth. Keep doing that with new solvent and new cloth until no further dirt comes off the rotor. Then take a quick test ride, using the brake. Ideally pedal hard with the brake on, so you heat the pads and rotor (and also get an idea of whether the brake works). Remember that riding with the brakes on heats up the rotors - be careful touching them immediately afterwards. Wipe the rotor with a clean cloth to remove any pad goop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was no squeal last summer the alignment should be fine. The way to check is to look at the gaps between the pas an rotors. Check from a couple of different angles, the pad should be parallel to the rotor from all angles. If it's not try squeezing the lever - some pads pull slightly off angle when they come off the disk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails buy new pads, clean the rotors then install the new pads. Remember that the new pads will need a little running in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-04-06T03:23:46.977" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T03:23:46.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2011-04-02T19:05:49.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I cycle in the Netherlands, I work in IT, I'm a techy and all my colleges are techies yet I am the only one who cycles, which is infuriating when living in a country built to be cycled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the 13km trip into work there are &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of commuters in the morning, (there are cycle jams at the lights) I would say the female/male split is 50/50. Even in winter I see just as many men as women.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="940" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-04-25T07:35:06.443" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T07:35:06.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2011-04-02T22:18:06.833" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speculation...  Fear of breaking down.  For most male cyclists, a flat or whatever is no tragedy; you just fix it.   For women, who may not be as mechanically &quot;ept&quot;, there is also the worry of being alone and isolated while doing the fix...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute from our cheap-parking garage to the station.  It's only about a mile or so... I'm a police officer in full &quot;bike&quot; uniform, so I'm not worried about being harassed or even attacked during my 6 am ride.  Not so with a lot of women, I would imagine.&#xA;We see a lot of women riding alone during the day; fitness riders...  No great fear on well-traveled roadways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T22:18:06.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3354" CreationDate="2011-04-03T08:10:12.203" Score="2" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the last years I do a lot of mountain biking tours. To record this tours I currently use my Android phone and a GPS tracker application. I'm happy with it, but the problem is, the battery life is not long enough for whole day trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought about buying a real GPS tracker device. I don't want to use navigation or routing but just tracking. So my problem is, I don't really know what are the important technical specifications I should look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: Is it important how many Gps points a device can store? I read values between 10'000 and 20'000 but how many do I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lot of similar questions like the kind of GPS module, the method to define the height, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need the device for my mountain biking tours. This means no cities or things like that, almost all offrode. The duration can vary from 1 hour to the whole day, but I don't think it is a problem if I have to reload in the evening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1316" LastEditorUserId="1316" LastEditDate="2011-04-03T23:51:17.710" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T15:32:55.333" Title="What should I expect from a GPS logging device?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="62557" CreationDate="2011-04-03T11:09:09.327" Score="6" ViewCount="32637" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an iPhone app that allows one to follow an imported .gpx track, in a car navigation-like way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The apps I found so far, like Trails, can only display the track on a map. What I am looking for is a &quot;download-and-forget&quot; experience for my bike trips. I want to import a track and just look at my iPhone to tell me in which direction is the next waypoint, or how can I get back on track if I get lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-03T12:46:45.413" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T19:25:46.627" Title="iPhone app to follow/navigate an imported .gpx" Tags="&lt;iphone&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3349" CreationDate="2011-04-03T19:53:58.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motionx.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.motionx.com/&lt;/a&gt; is the closest I've seen. You can set it's map to show track up as you ride. It doesn't know where the roads are though, nor zoom in or out depending on your speed, nor show upcoming turns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt; As of 2019, this app is now end-of-lifed. It was great while it lasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastEditorUserId="130" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T14:08:22.843" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T14:08:22.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3353" CreationDate="2011-04-03T21:49:55.453" Score="1" ViewCount="2105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Truvativ FireX chainset from 2008ish, I'm looking for a replacement middle chainring however, no shops seem to stock replacements for Truvativ chainsets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations for chainrings that should fit a Truvativ Firex chainset (i.e. is there an industry standard size for them, or do they vary). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: In the end I couldn't find one online from a reliable source, so I went to a local bike shop, and they had one in stock (Cost more than the shimano alternatives though). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1317" LastEditorUserId="1317" LastEditDate="2011-05-30T18:35:57.583" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T18:35:57.583" Title="Truvativ Firex chainset replacement middle 32 tooth chainring &amp; bolts" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3348" CreationDate="2011-04-03T23:32:30.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a small tracker for a while and after faffing with it for a while sold it on eBay. So I may not be the best person to answer. But here goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to decide on the basic parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;what is the longest ride you want to log? (distance)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;how long will that take? (time)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;how often do you need to log? (I find that every 10m is necessary in urban areas because there are often a lot of route choices, 100m is fine for offroad and every few kilometres is ok for touring).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That tells you how much battery life you need and how many data points you have to store. I'd expect that the data points answer will be less than 10k. Battery life is what mattered to me in the end - I was uploading every few days and recharging when I did it. What ended up killing the idea for me was the lack of display on the thing. I wanted to be able to see how much battery life and memory it had left without plugging it into a computer. It couldn't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: for single-day use note that there are only 80k seconds in a day, and most small loggers need a second or so to take a reading. So a 30k point GPS could log every single second you were on your bike each day. More reasonably, logging every 10 seconds means at most 8600 points in 24 hours. So a 10k point logger will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think more important points will be GPS reliability, robustness and how waterproof it is. If you have to tape an antenna to the top of your helmet to get reliable reception that will suck, and likewise if it stops working because you went over a bump or through a creek. So I suggest looking at those features rather than focussing on battery life or data points. Work out where you want to mount it and run from there (in a backpack is quite different from in a pannier or handlebar bar, and different again from under the seat or on the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-04-04T00:04:42.367" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T00:04:42.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3351" CreationDate="2011-04-04T00:42:51.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icyclesusa.com/catalog/truvativ-firex-single-speed-crankset.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this bike shop&lt;/a&gt; it takes Shimano 4 bolt 104mm/74mm BCD chainrings, so you should be able to use the Shimano rings. If you have a spare bike and the right tools, take the cranks off, remove the ring and take both into a shop. That way you/they can check the fit before you buy a chainring. It's one of those times when you're better off paying a premium for LBS service so you don't end up buying multiple wrong parts online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how (un)common those chainrings are, but we still get them as a new stock item in Australia and there seem to be lots of hits in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com.au/search?q=104mm%20chainring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;google&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T00:42:51.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3348" CreationDate="2011-04-04T10:33:17.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also consider buying external battery for you Android phone. I do not want to reccomend anything as I have not tried it, so here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=external%20usb%20battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plain Google search on topic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it will add weight to your backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T10:33:17.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3348" CreationDate="2011-04-05T15:32:55.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only advice I can give is not to buy the Garmin 405.  It gets 6 hours of battery life if I'm lucky (and has a ton of other usability and quality issues).  Then again, it's designed to be lightweight, mostly for runners.  You can probably afford a little more weight on your bike tours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T15:32:55.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3357" CreationDate="2011-04-05T16:03:01.450" Score="2" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I record my mountain bike tours using my Android mobile. Now I want to evaluate the tours. Currently I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://mytourbook.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MyTourbook&lt;/a&gt;. This would be a great software, but it has two major drawbacks: The height is calculate very roughly and the time in motion calculation isn't correct too. That's why I'm looking for a new software. The software should be able to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Show the tour on a map&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Show me the distance, the elevation, the average and max speed and the time of each tour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A little bit of statistics, so that I can see how many meters I've done in a year, a month, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations? It should be for windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1316" LastEditorUserId="1316" LastEditDate="2011-04-05T17:30:33.750" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T17:30:33.750" Title="Software to evaluate *.gpx files" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;software&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3356" CreationDate="2011-04-05T16:51:33.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;not sure if a web &quot;software&quot; (aka website) is in your needs, but I recommend GPSIES: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsies.com/convert.do&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gpsies.com/convert.do&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Item 1 of your list is for sure;&#xA;Item 2 not sure if it will be at such fine grain;&#xA;Item 3 yes, maybe not in such detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if not for this need the link is usefull and free, I use it a lot (I have nothing to do with this site I just like it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T16:51:33.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3360" CreationDate="2011-04-06T12:34:03.393" Score="8" ViewCount="3166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only have one set of water bottle mount screws on my bike.  I would like to have an additional water bottle.  Ideally I would like to mount the bottle on the frame (preferably on the vertical tube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bonus: Can I order/build in Canada?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T20:52:09.843" Title="Mount additional water bottle on bike frame with only one water bottle mount" Tags="&lt;hydration&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3358" CreationDate="2011-04-06T12:51:08.233" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get yourself two hose clamps that'll fit around the tube and some rubber strips to put under then so they don't scratch the paint up too badly. They'll hold a bottle cage on just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can see under the dirt and grime, that's exactly how the bottle cage in this picture is mounted: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2053109757/in/set-72157603259115084/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kr611.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here's another picture of a bottle cage mounted with hose clamps (not mine). &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/cavenewt/3211631295/in/set-72157612780899338&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i6DHf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-08T21:13:52.613" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T21:13:52.613" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3358" CreationDate="2011-04-06T13:31:18.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.twofish.biz/bike.html&quot;&gt;Twofish Quick Cage&lt;/a&gt; has worked well for me. Not terribly pricey, and easy to reposition as needed. Not as secure as the hose clamp solution, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1273" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T13:31:18.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3358" CreationDate="2011-04-06T16:53:25.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this isn't what you asked, but have you considered a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.camelbak.com/Sports-Recreation/Packs/2011-Charge-450.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Camelbak&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T16:53:25.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3371" CreationDate="2011-04-06T16:55:19.170" Score="16" ViewCount="1808" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm cleaning my bike, the quickest way to degrease my chain is to remove it and degrease it in a small tub. Will constant removal / re-adding to the bike cause damage? I don't have a quick release chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="188" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T08:27:18.727" Title="Will regular removal, cleaning and re-placing of my chain weaken or damage it?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3358" CreationDate="2011-04-06T16:58:27.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you only considering a frame mount? If not, there are options for mounting a cage on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nordicgroup.us/cageboss/#Seat_Rail_Mount_with_Integrated_Cages&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seat rails&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nordicgroup.us/cageboss/#Seat_Post_Mount_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seat post&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nordicgroup.us/cageboss/#Clamps_for_Handlebars_Only&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;handlebars&lt;/a&gt;. In addition, if the frame is all that you'll consider, there are a number of options for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nordicgroup.us/cageboss/#Clamps_for_Frame,_Seatpost,_or_Long_Steer_Tubes_%28on_Folders%29_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;clamp-type&quot; water bottle systems&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention, but if you have a carbon frame you'll need to choose an appropriate clamp so as not to damage the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if you use a seat bag? An option is to switch from a seat bag to a dual-mount seat-rail water bottle cage; and then, carry your extras in something like this, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002SR0JRM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Tacx-Tool-Tube-Storage-Bottle/dp/B002SR0JRM&lt;/a&gt; and if you're frugal, a water bottle could be cut-down for the purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-04-07T22:03:50.463" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T22:03:50.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3358" CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:00:58.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been facing the same issue, trying to mount an additional bottle cage to the underside of the downtube on my mountain bike.  I haven't settled on one particular solution yet, but I found this site helpful as it outlines various different solutions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nordicgroup.us/cageboss/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nordicgroup.us/cageboss/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T17:00:58.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3362" CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:01:57.577" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pushing pins out and then jamming them back in are bound to cause a certain amount of strain on the links.  Buy a connector link and replace one of your links with it, creating a &quot;quick release&quot; chain.  Make sure that you get a link that is the same width as your chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even better, buy a few of them.  I actually keep one with me, that way if I break a chain it makes repairs so much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T17:01:57.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3369" CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:25:53.680" Score="16" ViewCount="6283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute to work on a single-speed road bike, so it's a lot easier if I avoid any steep hills (preferring to cover the same gradient gradually). Taking a look at a map, there are seemingly 3-4 sensible routes to get from point A to point B. Short of trying them all, is there any way to evaluate which has the most gradual climb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastEditorUserId="568" LastEditDate="2011-04-07T05:41:23.987" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T20:06:19.787" Title="Mapping the most gentle route for my single speed" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:31:35.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have access to an elevation map of the area?  I believe on that type of map, the closer together the lines are, the steeper the grade.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T17:31:35.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:47:04.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/routes/new&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ridewithgps&lt;/a&gt;. It's fairly simple. You go to this site and plot out a route(s) on the map. As you create the route you'll get a graphic of the elevation profile below the map. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-04-06T17:52:06.883" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T17:52:06.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:55:09.297" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of the online mapping websites have elevation data you can use to figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example 1: Go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/&quot;&gt;http://maps.google.com/&lt;/a&gt; choose the bicycle icon and ask for directions.  Once it gives you the map, switch to the &quot;map&quot; instead of satellite view and turn on the terrain overlay.  When you ask for bicycle directions it tries to avoid steep climbs and the terrain data overlay can give you some idea how bad things are.  You can drag points on the route to force it into giving you a specific route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example 2: Go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.mapmyride.com/&lt;/a&gt; -- go through the annoying interface to create a new ride (there's some annoying ad stuff).  Once you've done that, you can see some data including a graph of the climbs.  Do that for all the routes and compare side by side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of competing websites for that kind of thing that you can search for out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T17:55:09.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2011-04-06T21:53:27.050" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's 4 days to evaluate all the routes. I'd just ride them. You can spend a lot of time with mapping tools trying to evaluate gradients and still get it wrong. Unless you can find a cycling guide that discusses the issue you will almost certainly not get a good answer. For a motor transport engineer (the people who design roads) anything under 1:10 is fine on a minor road, 1:20 on a major road. They just don't care about short steep sections vs long gentle sections. The flattest route could easily be the one where you come out of a compulsory stop onto a short steep section that climbs less than the 5m interval between contours on a most-detailed map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One electronic solution would be to use google streetview to survey each route. Look at the angle between the street and the vertical walls or horizontal floors. That will give you a rough idea of the slope of the road at each point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T21:53:27.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3362" CreationDate="2011-04-06T21:59:44.593" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the chain. If it's a chain with cylindrical pins (most singlespeed and some narrow chains) then the damage will be negligible. Even if you always use the same pin you should be fine the first 10 or so times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a chain with profiled pins you'll need to use a new replacement pin every time and the replacements can't readily be removed (doing so damages the side plates). So you'll be limited to about 100 chain-cleanings before your chain is entirely made of replacement pins. And you will have spent more than the cost of a new chain buying pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's two things to look for: damage to the side plates, especially dishing around the pin; and a pin that is too easy to remove (it's loose). Either means you're likely to have the chain fail in use. Replace that link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy way is to buy a quick release link and use that. They're generally only good for 20-50 open/close cycles, but the failure mode is that they become steadily easier to open, making it easy to tell when you need to replace them. And they're fairly cheap - typically $5 or so each, compared to about $1 for a single-use replacement pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-04-12T22:19:38.623" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T22:19:38.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="530" CreationDate="2011-04-07T04:18:56.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slime scabs suck as a permanent repair. I think they would be fine for a temporary repair, because that is about how long they last. Self vulcanizing cement and regular patches are still the best way to go. I still have some scabs, but will only use them in an emergency, or when I patch my ex girlfriends tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1324" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T04:18:56.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3275" CreationDate="2011-04-07T12:48:36.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two points to note when choosing an endurance tire are firstly the thickness of the side wall, since while touring you can easily get rock, sticks, nails, whatever hitting the side while you are riding.  Secondly, you can &quot;age&quot; a tire a little bit by buying it before time, and placing it onto a rim with a tube pumped up to low pressure to help fill out the shape. After a month or so you will find that the tire has actually hardened a little, and will be slightly more puncture resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T12:48:36.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3376" CreationDate="2011-04-07T17:01:28.543" Score="11" ViewCount="2673" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally I'm doing a lot of sports, (volleyball, hiking, soccer, swimming, etc.) and while hiking I have no problem to do 3000 meters or more in a day (uphill ;)) but when I go mountain-biking I have some problems. I can cycle the first 500-600 altitude difference more or less in a normal speed (~1 hour), but afterwards if I should cycle further I'm exhausted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So whats the best way to improve my stamina? Should I practice every day a little bit? Or is it better to sometimes go for long tours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1316" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T15:52:20.940" Title="How can I improve my stamina?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;best-practice&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2011-04-07T17:42:29.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The climbing that kills me when mtbing are the explosive short climbs, not the long grinds.  If that is the case with you, I would suggest some sort of interval training.  This sort of training should help your recovery speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure that you are taking nutrients in while exercising.  Low to moderate exertions can be fueled by body fat, but high intensity needs to tap into your carbo reserves, and I find that mine get depleted quickly without having some sort of replacement ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T17:42:29.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2011-04-07T18:17:33.230" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best ways to build stamina is through interval training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best book I've found on the subject is: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velopress.com/cycling.php?id=284&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Time-Crunched Cyclist: Fit, Fast, and Powerful in 6 Hours a Week&lt;/em&gt; by Chris Carmichael&lt;/a&gt;. The book includes a lot of info on lactate threshold, energy metabolism, nutrition, race and century training plans, etc. I first tried out his methods after reading one of his articles in &lt;em&gt;Bicycling Magazine&lt;/em&gt; on century training prior to the release of &lt;em&gt;The Time Crunched Cyclist&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, Carmichael's methods are a form of interval training where you are doing things like hill-repeats, power intervals, fast pace intervals, etc. There's a lot of info out there on interval training. One of the more common is called HIIT (High Intensity Interval Training).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another resource relating to interval training is here on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drmirkin.com/public/ezine112909.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dr. Mirkin's web site&lt;/a&gt; where he discusses how sprinting improves endurance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW - I've made interval training my primary method of training for long distance riding. I do multiple centuries during the summers and rarely do training rides over 60 miles. Prior to 4 years ago, my mode of training for long distance was a gradual distance build-up and had mixed results. With interval training, my performance on long distance rides has improved significantly in both speed and how I feel afterwards. Seriously, this plan works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And...related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2479/what-exercise-should-i-do-in-the-gym-to-assist-with-hill-climbing/2483#2483&quot;&gt;What exercise should I do in the gym to assist with hill-climbing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T18:24:36.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3358" CreationDate="2011-04-07T21:02:08.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a Strida owner, I've struggled with exactly this problem. I went with the KLICKFix solution, and couldn't be more pleased. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not always I like to carry a bottle, so I really like the fact that I just remove the whole thing in a split second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3YD7F.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T21:02:08.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2011-04-08T11:08:19.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this it is the best I have seen.http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com/.  Neil: yes of course.  The website allows you to actually map the route and works out the road stuff for you so you can just work out the main points rather than every time it changes direction.  Also it does all the height stuff and a text print out.  Remember in the UK we do not have bike on google maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2011-04-10T19:16:38.840" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T19:16:38.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2011-04-08T12:03:46.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;wdypdx22's &quot;HITT&quot; or &quot;interval training&quot; might be what a nutritionist who I talked to called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fartlek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fartlek training&lt;/a&gt;, in case you want to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=fartlek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google that term&lt;/a&gt; too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;afterwards if I should cycle further I'm exhausted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know that it's good, nor even possible, to 'train' when you're 'exhausted'? So, why are you exhausted, and how to avoid it: perhaps you need to rehydrate or to refuel, perhaps on the fly; or perhaps your 'normal speed' for the first hour needs to be slower/easier (even for the fittest, the 'normal speed' for a sprint isn't the same as for a marathon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently a 180 lb cyclist at 12 mph (on the flat, presumably) burns about 500 calories/hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW I've been cycling for a bit over an hour twice a day, 3-5 days/week for the last month (after eating, so I don't run out of fuel on the way). And I haven't been pushing myself too hard (e.g. I'm using low gears when I get to a hill) because I don't want to strain my knees: and I'm sure I'm getting stronger/more enduring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If strength is about increasing muscle, perhaps endurance is about increasing vascularisation. Apparently when you exercise your &quot;VO2max&quot; i.e. the rate at which you can burn/use/take in oxygen increases, and that's partly because you get more capillaries (I imagine, I don't know, that it's blood vessels that were previously too small to be effective that increase to meet the demand ... perhaps it's new vessels too); maybe that (growth and change in tissues) can't happen overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So whats the best way to improve my stamina? Should I practice every day a little bit? Or is it better to sometimes go for long tours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently someone once asked a champion whether it's better, in a race, to push hard and slowly in a high gear, or to spin more easily and quickly in a lower gear: and he thought about that and said, &quot;It's better to push hard and quickly in a high gear.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly (and here again, I'm guessing) improving stamina might not be to do with practicing either often or for a longer time, but both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-04-08T13:41:37.530" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T13:41:37.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2011-04-08T17:52:12.330" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very good solution is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/earth/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google Earth&lt;/a&gt;. If you create a route (either create one or get a recorded track from a GPS device), you can see it's elevation profile (right click on the route and &quot;Show Elevation Profile&quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4kwdF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Snapshot of the Elevation Profile&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The profiling is interactive and linked to the map, so you can easily see where the &quot;problem&quot; (eg too high elevation) is on the map and modify your track accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1331" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T17:52:12.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3382" CreationDate="2011-04-08T18:26:48.143" Score="5" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking for awhile that having a bag on the inside of the frame of the bike would be a good place to store a few small things, such as a camelback bladder, shirt, etc. What I mean is a bag mounted where &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j8T7B.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the yellow triangle is in this pic&lt;/a&gt;. For all I know, it's a common thing in bike shops, but I haven't been to one in a few years (unless you count Canadian Tire) and I've never seen anyone with something like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be a good idea? Does it exist? If so, where could I get one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T08:55:44.327" Title="Inner Frame Mounted Carrying Bag" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3381" CreationDate="2011-04-08T18:46:36.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many available.  Here is one example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebikestop.com/axiom_cascade_frame_pack_black-BG6638.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebikestop.com/axiom_cascade_frame_pack_black-BG6638.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaches to the seat tube and the top tube, providing a triangular storage space.  This one also is padded to aid with portaging (if you have a big enough triangle).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some people who tour with home-made frame bags that take up the entire triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bags are a great idea because they keep your load close to your center of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T18:46:36.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-09T16:26:16.487" Score="0" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought a &lt;em&gt;Viva Pista 3&lt;/em&gt; single speed bicycle, after getting my previous bike stolen. It's a really nice ride and very good for road rides. It's my pride and joy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's not something I want to lock up outside a shop; it's probably going to get stolen if I leave it out of my sight. I have a pretty decent lock (&lt;em&gt;Kryptonite D-lock&lt;/em&gt; with cable flex) and the bicycle is properly insured. However, I still wouldn't like to lose it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, what I want is a very cheap, mechanically simple bike under £100/$150. Ideally it'd be single speed, have MTB tires and have a pretty upright posture. Basically, a bike that if it disappeared would be cheap to replace and I have no emotional attachment to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-09T20:06:03.937" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T20:06:03.937" Title="Choosing a bike for errands" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-04-10T23:59:23.507" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3383" CreationDate="2011-04-09T18:00:28.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just buy something old and used - don't buy a 100quid BSO from Asda&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T18:00:28.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3387" CreationDate="2011-04-09T18:39:54.863" Score="5" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to put a smaller set of gears on my bike, but looking at the wheel I see that I already have the smallest gear for my axle. Comparing it to another wheel, I found that the other wheel has a much smaller axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thicker axle, 14 tooth gear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://chrismsmith.net/IMG_2231.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://chrismsmith.net/IMG_2231.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinner axle, 11 tooth gear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://chrismsmith.net/IMG_2230.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://chrismsmith.net/IMG_2230.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know the names for these two different axle types, or how they are described at all, and why one would be chosen over the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1334" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2011-04-11T14:47:56.810" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T17:22:03.310" Title="What's the deal with the axle of my wheels? (or, why is one gear so much smaller than the other?)" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3383" CreationDate="2011-04-09T18:40:01.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have an beater bike for the same purpose.  It was old (80's era), pretty beat up and a road bike -- all qualities that it made it less desirable.  Still fun to ride though.  But lock it up at any bike rack and it was guaranteed to be the last bike to be stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go for a used bike and try to pick something unpopular (i.e. not a fixie).  There are lots of non-profits out there which salvage old bikes, fix them up and sell them at a low cost.  You can keep the bike well maintained, just don't bother keeping it clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T18:40:01.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3385" CreationDate="2011-04-10T02:04:54.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I googled that funky MegaRange 14-34 (first picture) and it appears to be a 7-speed threaded freewheel.  The second example is a bit harder to make out but it appears to be a modern cassette+freehub design, not sure how many sprockets.  The two designs are incompatible and use different hub styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;freewheel&lt;/strong&gt; design includes both the sprockets and freewheel (the mechanism which lets you coast) as one piece, which screws onto the hub body.  This is an older design and is limited to a lower number of gears, typically 7 or less.  I'm not sure of any clear advantage, other than it's easier to replace the freewheel in this design.  It's been a long time since I had one of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern hubs use the second &lt;strong&gt;freehub&lt;/strong&gt; design, where the hub includes the freewheel mechanism.  The sprockets come separately as &quot;cassettes&quot; and can be slid onto the freehub; a locking ring (black in the picture) holds the cassette in place.  Cassettes make it easier to change out a worn sprocket set, or to switch between different sets for different conditions (e.g. one for flat terrain, another for climbing).  Because the cassette widths are standard, you can often upgrade to more sprockets without changing the hub (although you still need to upgrade the shifters).  The tradeoff is that to replace the freewheel you'll end up replacing the entire hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more details (with pictures), check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="157" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T02:04:54.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3219" CreationDate="2011-04-10T06:10:11.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summers in my area get up to 90-100 during the day, and I would not ride around in a long sleeve shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal favorite shirt to wear is something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1096598_-1_20000__400060&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pearl Izumi Attack Short Sleeve Jersey from Performance Bike&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ON7BL.jpg&quot; width=&quot;175&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my favorite because of the color - &quot;high visibility yellow&quot;. Most of my riding is on local streets, and it makes me feel better knowing I'm nice and bright-colored. I prefer this over a regular t-shirt because it lets more air through, doesn't get heavy as it absorbs my sweat, and it has handy-dandy pockets in the back (great for my work ID, so I don't have to dig through my bag to find it to swipe in the building).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check with your local bike shop and see what you like - I'm not a very skinny guy, so the tight-fitting bike jerseys don't look good on me. There are a lot of biking shirts that are looser fitting, some being designed as &quot;mountain biking&quot; clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T06:10:11.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3385" CreationDate="2011-04-10T15:05:10.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good explanation. &quot;Freewheels&quot; are pretty much outmoded technology. The bearings are located inboard from the axle ends, and the axle is prone to bending. You can still buy replacement freewheels up to 7-speed; I don't recall seeing any bigger ones, but they may exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;freehub&quot; with its splined &quot;cassette&quot; of cogs is the current paradigm. It's a stronger arrangement and easier to service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing from one to the other requires a different wheel... Also, the spacing between the rear dropouts on older bikes may be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that for 98% of the cycling public, the difference between an 11-tooth top gear and a 12-tooth is negligible; very few people can turn the &quot;top&quot; gear on your typical roadster at any kind of pace, even on a level road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastEditorUserId="859" LastEditDate="2011-04-11T17:22:03.310" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T17:22:03.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-10T16:02:08.233" Score="15" ViewCount="4739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a kid trailer to convert as a utility trailer.  I paid $75 for it used.  I could not find a cargo trailer for under $200 plus shipping (probably large).  The trailer is also rated up to 100 pounds (which is actually more than the cargo trailer 75 pounds).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wonder if anyone had converted a kid trailer to a cargo trailer before and what the best way to do it is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Feet Wide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 Inches Long&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/at6N9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3kI7M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Note: my trailer does not have the bar or wheel shown in the picture).&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KmJCd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:  I have removed the fabric from the trailer to get a better look at the frame.  The fabric is still in tact so it would be possible to put it back on the trailer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ABs32.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQXQv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2011-04-10T18:42:21.130" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T23:50:33.110" Title="Converting kid trailer to cargo trailer" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3390" CreationDate="2011-04-10T17:53:53.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strip the textile parts off, check the construction of the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the frame is a rectangle, put a fitting plastic bin / tub from home depot inside the rectangle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the frame is interspersed with beams, put a platform on top and put a bin / tub on top of that. Or maybe just a short railing like the one on croozer cargo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to have the center of gravity as low as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T17:53:53.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3390" CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:50:04.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would cut a bit of 10mm or 12mm plywood to fit underneath of the main frame section and use cable ties to hold it onto the frame. Probably at the level of that bar across the back of the trailer.  That gives you a lip around the platform as well as a very slightly lower centre of gravity. Having lots of cut-outs where things are attached to the button of the frame isn't too much of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you'd find a plastic bin that exactly fit into the space but that's very unlikely to be possible. You will most likely find that the bin you get either sits too low and scrapes on the ground, or is too small on one side to work properly. If you go this route I suggest getting one the right width to sit on the main frame members and not worrying too much about how long it is. Having two bins next to each other might also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think keeping the cloth cover will be handy, it will help keep your load in place as well as giving you some shelter from light rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that kiddy trailer load ratings are not the same as cargo trailer load ratings. No-one is expected to add exactly the load rating of children (look, it holds 2.3 children!), and people tend to be more gentle with children than with cargo. So a 30kg cargo trailer will probably hold the same weight as a 50kg rated kiddie trailer before it starts falling apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason they cost so much is that people won't buy a cheap, heavy, solid trailer. Instead they buy cheap, light, flimsy trailers and wonder why they fall apart. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/masstrailer/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I built 12 of the heavy style&lt;/a&gt; and it took more than a year to sell them even though they cost the same as the flimsy junk ones. That as an educational experience for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T22:50:04.877" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3402" CreationDate="2011-04-11T02:24:06.950" Score="15" ViewCount="31045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a cyclops trainer. It is annoying to switch the skewers. I know the steel skewer that came with the trainer is heavier and stronger, but I don't know if it will damage my bicycle off of the trainer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know that riding on the trainer with my normal skewer will wreck the normal ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1339" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2011-04-11T21:27:54.240" LastActivityDate="2020-11-03T11:34:56.387" Title="Will cycling off-the-trainer with the trainer's steel skewer damage my bike?" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3396" CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:07:39.163" Score="3" ViewCount="2033" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend wants to buy a used road bike as well.  She is pretty small 5'2'' with shorter legs so it has been tricky finding anything that would fit her.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She suggested that we should look at something with a lower top tube.  Ie something like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6KQHf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Not sure why but the images don't appear to be working.  Here is a link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://massachusetts.inetgiant.com/Boston/AdDetails/COUGAR-10-speed-women-s-road-bike-NH-MA-border/8075274&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://massachusetts.inetgiant.com/Boston/AdDetails/COUGAR-10-speed-women-s-road-bike-NH-MA-border/8075274&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know why but this does not seem like a serious bike to me.  We want to do some faster riding but I don't know how to justify why this isn't a &quot;fast bike&quot;.  (Or is it a fast bike?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some benefits of having a regular top tube are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bike has less flex and will lose less power on each pedal stroke.  (Is this significant?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The geometry is &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; for the person riding the bike.  If you buy a bike with a lower down tube you are not really solving the problem.  With a solution like this you will not be able to get your handle bars at the right height (ie: at the same height or lower than your seat post).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Will a bike with a regular top tube be faster than a bike with a lower slanted top tube?  Why?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-12T03:55:30.677" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T03:55:30.677" Title="Lower Top Tubes on Road Bikes" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2278" CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:38:04.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to guess that, with good tires and good brakes, if you slam on the brakes then you'll go over the handle bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is so then the limiting parameter isn't the weight of the rider, but rather the location of the rider's centre of mass relative to the front tire, which is more or less independent of (constant with respect to) the rider's weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T03:38:04.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3394" CreationDate="2011-04-11T04:04:15.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frame flex. The step-through frame means that the seat tube has a bending force applied to the middle of it, so it has to be stronger and heavier than the same tube in a diamond frame. Usually the down tube is also beefed up. Even so, there will be more flex both laterally and longitudinally/torsionally. I've also not seen a decent lightweight frame in that geometry. If you want light in a step-through design perhaps &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3289/modern-retro-design-peugout-mixte-bicycle-for-girlfriend&quot;&gt;look at a mixte frame&lt;/a&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=34162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;seriously tiny road bikes&lt;/a&gt; these days (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com.au/#hl=en&amp;amp;q=650c+racing+bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;google&lt;/a&gt;). The real choice (IMO) is between 650c and 700c wheels. 650c wheels look better, make for a lighter bike and generally have fewer compromises. They are more of a scaled down full size bike. 700c wheels mean the bike looks stretched a little with the rider low down between the wheels. The advantage is that tyres are easier to find and the manufacturer already has jigs etc to build bikes around 700c wheels. Tyres are only slightly easier, these days Schwalbe and others make a decent range of 650c tyres (they're not just a track &amp;amp; time trial size) and shopping online means you can definitely buy them (your LBS should be able to order them in too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find one of those second hand I suggest checking out the second hand ads at your local racing clubs. Finding one in the giant mess of second hand bike ads has proved tricky for us in the past, mostly due to the overwhelming number of cheap crappy childrens bikes that pollute the search results. However if you want to sell one just approach short adults... you'll sell it very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T05:32:26.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2278" CreationDate="2011-04-11T04:51:58.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beckforensics.com/CMRSC14BeckBicycle.pdf&quot;&gt;Beck Forensics have figures&lt;/a&gt; (pdf), peaking at about 0.5g for a MTB on flat concrete. I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=bicycle%20braking%20rate&quot;&gt;this search&lt;/a&gt; to find that paper and some of the other results look relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number that springs to my mind is 0.3g, but that may be for cars. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mitpress.mit.edu/catalog/item/default.asp?ttype=2&amp;amp;tid=10063&quot;&gt;Bicycling Science&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/hparchive.htm&quot;&gt;Human Power&lt;/a&gt; are where I would go for well-researched answers. Human Power doesn't seem to have anything, although it may just be missing from the index. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great deal depends on the geometry of the bicycle, since that's the limiting factor (most bikes can throw the rider by overenthusiastic braking). A little thought experiment might help. Assume the CoG of the rider is in the hips, so about 10cm above the seat. A line from there through the front contact patch will be roughly 45 degrees above horizontal (give or take, say 15 degrees), so an upper limit of 1g is likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further Feynman it, 10m/s is 36km/hr, so 1g would stop you from 36km/hr in one second. During which time you'd travel about 1/2at^2 or 5m (I cheated by making t=1). One simple test would therefore to sprint to 35kph then hit the brakes at a marked point and see what your stopping distance is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On reflection, 1G or 10m/s/s sounds more plausible as an upper limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-04-12T01:14:31.377" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T01:14:31.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4367" CreationDate="2011-04-11T08:21:12.010" Score="6" ViewCount="1575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/news-and-events/sportive-bike-vs-road-bike&quot;&gt;'sportive' bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, i.e. very much like a road bike but with a taller head tube to give a slightly more upright, more relaxed, less 'heads-down' riding position, and a triple chainset rather than a compact double. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is a great bike (I'm not telling you its make or model as I don't want to discuss the pros and cons of this &lt;em&gt;specific&lt;/em&gt; bike), but the US-based manufacturer produced it in 2010 only. I happened to meet a UK-based employee of theirs at the weekend who told me although this bike was designed specifically for the UK market, its (worldwide) sales turned out to be too small to justify continued production. This surprises me, as I have the impression that only a small proportion of the (lower-end) road bikes sold are ever used for road racing or time trialling, with more used for fitness and day rides, including the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sportive&quot;&gt;sportive&lt;/a&gt; events that give this style its name, and that this style of bike is ideally suited to such uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain why such bikes aren't popular outside the UK? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T00:09:24.593" Title="Why aren't sportive' 'bikes popular outside the UK?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3398" CreationDate="2011-04-11T11:16:57.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is that you're missing some search terms or the manufacturer is missing a marketing opportunity. Or perhaps their bike is not what that market is after. I suggest looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=randonneur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;randonneur&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=audax&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;audax&lt;/a&gt; rides as well as sportive to get a feel for just how many of those riders are out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience a lot of commuters ride upright bikes that are not racing bikes. There's everything from drop bar touring bikes like the Long Haul Trucker (with or without the short stem/long steerer combo) through to the very common flat bar road bike (usually with the short top tube, long chainstay combo your salesperson is so fond of). Claiming that the ¨sportive&quot; bike is somehow special because it has those features suggests ignorance rather than a giant gulf in the market that somehow everyone else has missed. It's more likely that the randonneur market is so specialised that it's impossible to target as a single entity, so the bike fell through the gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you got yours cheap because the manufacturer couldn't sell them but it suits you perfectly, then well done, you got a bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T11:16:57.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3398" CreationDate="2011-04-11T14:26:15.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In recent years, we've seen a lot of bikes which are set up to cater to the increasingly-older market.    Where you once had &quot;hybrid&quot; bikes (a road frame with MTB components) you now have &quot;fitness&quot; and &quot;comfort&quot; bikes which tend to have an upright riding position, cushy saddles, and some sort of minimal suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have always been subdivisions in roadsters... I currently ride a vintage 1972 &quot;Cilo/Swiss&quot; roadster which was obviously not intended for fast or sporty riding, yet it has a Columbus double-butted frame and Shimano 600 components... Pretty high-end for what you'd think was intended as a commuter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T14:26:15.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3394" CreationDate="2011-04-11T14:29:51.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.   &quot;Women's&quot; bikes were intended primarily for one purpose; so that women could wear skirts while riding.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They are inherently weaker than a &quot;diamond&quot; frame and as a result must be made heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other solutions are the &quot;mixte&quot; frame, with dual top tubes running directly from headstock to rear dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern &quot;compact&quot; frames are a sort of modified diamond, likely taken from mountain-bike design.&#xA;For extremely short riders, there's always the possibility of using smaller wheels.. 650mm rims.&#xA;The problem is ground clearance for the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T14:29:51.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3393" CreationDate="2011-04-11T14:49:30.660" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean the quick release skewer and the answer is no, well at least not in my experience. I've spent a few years riding on the training skewer from my Tacx trainer and had no issues outside of the visual detraction of a silver skewer on black rims/wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T14:49:30.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3219" CreationDate="2011-04-11T15:45:57.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You ONLY fell three times in one week?  It really sounds like you should get a studded front tire next winter.   If you take off your front wheel and spin it while holding on to the hub, you will notice that the centrifugal force prevents you from turning it exactly right or left, but it will very quickly and easily zip diagonally down and out.  This is the path it takes when you slip on the ice and this motion is so fast that it is just a roll of the dice what part of your body gets smashed.  Studs will give you great peace-of-mind next winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nokians are the ones to get.  Two local bike shops are selling them in a buy one get one free deal.  That is an excellent deal!  You would be set for the next 10 winters.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will soon get so used to clipless pedals that popping out of them in a hurry will be second nature.  Keeping feet free will probably NOT make a difference for your ice falls.  When I have fallen on ice, my front wheel zipped out from under me so fast, there was no time to even move my feet.  If you feel like you MIGHT fall and then put a foot down on ice, that foot may slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T15:45:57.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-04-11T19:22:48.443" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Hub&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the central parts of a conventional bicycle wheel. A hub is essentially a flanged metal tube (somewhat similar in shape to a spool of thread). The hub links the rim, axle, and (in the case of rear hubs) drivetrain of a bicycle. The axle is supported with bearings. Hubs have some key characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number of holes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hubs are connected to the rim with spokes. Hubs will have a number of holes that matches the rim's drilling. For example, performance road bike wheels often have 20, 24, or 28 holes. Typically, the rear wheel is under more strain than the front, and rear wheels may have more spokes than front wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some performance hubs are designed for straight pull spokes, where the spoke does not bend in a j-shape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Axle type&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hub also has a lateral hole through which the axle is inserted. When the wheel is moving, the axle does not rotate, but the hub, spokes, and rim do. The axle does not contact the hub directly; the two components have a set of cups/cones, bearings, and locknuts holding them together, similar to headsets and head tubes. This is how the hub (and thus the rest of the wheel) is connected to (but rotates freely around) the axle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Axles can be quick release or thru axles. Quick release hubs all have a width of 9mm and a diameter of 100mm over the lock nuts at the front, and 130mm (road hubs) or 135mm (mountain bike hubs) at the rear. An increasing number of performance bikes are moving to thru axles. The diameters and lengths of thru axles vary more. Front thru axles come in widths of 15mm or 12mm. Rear axles tend to be 12mm. The Boost drivetrain standard for mountain bikes adds some width to both front and rear thru axles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drivetrain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to provide a means by which the chain can rotate the wheel, rear hubs usually have at least one cog attached. (Front hubs do not have any drivetrain components.) There several different types of rear hubs which accept various drivetrain systems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freehubs. A &lt;strong&gt;cassette&lt;/strong&gt; is mounted on the freehub body. The freehub body has splines. Note that there are several spline standards to take different types of cassettes. As an alternative, SRAM's XD driver takes cassettes that are threaded onto the driver body. Freehubs contain ratchets and pawls that will transmit torque when the rider pedals forward, but not when he/she pedals backward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freewheel-compatible hubs have &lt;strong&gt;threads&lt;/strong&gt; to which a &lt;strong&gt;freewheel&lt;/strong&gt; can be attached. Here, the freewheel contains the ratchets and pawls as well as the cogs. These are the predecessors of cassette hubs, and are no longer in wide production.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1728#1728&quot;&gt;Internally geared&lt;/a&gt; hubs contain all the gears inside the hub. They don't have freewheels, but they do have an external cog to attach a chain or belt drive. These typically have higher drivetrain friction than (properly maintained) derailleur-based systems, but they are much more resistant to contamination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1982#1982&quot;&gt;Flip-flop&lt;/a&gt;, where a cog is mounted on either side of the wheel. According to legend, Tullio Campagnolo was inspired to develop the quick release skewer when he tried to flip a flip-flop hub secured by wingnuts in cold weather. This may be an anecdote.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/271#271&quot;&gt;Track/fixed-gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both front and rear hubs can accommodate electric motors. Users should be aware that they will change the bike's weight distribution and thus its handling. The batteries are mounted elsewhere on the bike. The crankset is an alternative area for mounting a motor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disc Rotor Attachment&lt;/strong&gt;. For disc brakes hubs only, there are two standards governing how the disc rotor attaches to the hub. ISO or 6-bolt hubs mount the rotor with 6 bolts. For centerlock hubs, the rotor slides on to a splined interface, and a lockring secures it. This is irrelevant for rim brake hubs, where the rim is the brake rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miscellaneous characteristics: Hubs can come in a variety of finish options. They are usually black or silver, and may have matte or polished finishes. Aluminum hubs can be anodized in various other colors. A small minority of hubs are fully or partly made of carbon fiber. Additionally, some rear hubs can contain power meters. Front hubs can be equipped with dynamos to power lights or other electrical equipment. These add a small amount of drag even if the dynamo is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastEditorUserId="38270" LastEditDate="2020-01-06T23:24:43.180" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T23:24:43.180" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-11T19:22:48.443" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3393" CreationDate="2011-04-11T22:23:05.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ridden several thousand km on the road with my trainer's steel skewer, QR and nut in use on an aluminum frame with no problems at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For training the weight just doesn't matter...realistically this is an aesthetic choice. There was a time when all these parts would have been steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note if you ride in the rain your steel bits may corrode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1343" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T22:23:05.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2011-04-11T22:55:18.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seconding JDV...I replace chain, cogs and sprockets as a set. These parts mesh together by design. Using parts with different wear patterns accelerates wear on the new parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1343" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T22:55:18.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="280" CreationDate="2011-04-12T02:20:58.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To dissent slightly... It's common practice for mechanics and bike-shop folks to recommend this...  It does result in selling more parts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if your chain is all rusted up as a result of sitting out and not as a result of running it in that condition... The cogs and chainrings might be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The skipping while backpedaling might well be due to similarly gunked-up derailleurs.   Before springing for a bunch of new parts, I would take everything off.  Both DRs, chain, etc. &#xA;Clean and lubricate everything.  I spray the DRs down with WD-40 and let 'em soak for a bit, then attack 'em with a toothbrush and the wire wheel on my Dremel to get off any caked-on lube and road grit.&#xA;Then just wash 'em in hot soapy water and re-lubricate.   Make sure the idlers are free-spinning and unworn on the rear one.&#xA;I restore old bikes for re-sale, and I've done dozens this way with only a chain replacement and they shift perfectly before I let them go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T02:20:58.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3439" CreationDate="2011-04-12T02:21:34.957" Score="13" ViewCount="1593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm nervous about hand signalling (taking a hand off the handle bar) while I'm decelerating: I'm worried that my body being pushed forward will act on the one remaining hand and change the angle of the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm sometimes not signalling as much as I'd like to (e.g. while I'm decelerating): as much as I would in a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a known problem? Is there a work-around or solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for riding in city traffic. For example on a main road, relatively fast with cars following, I want to slow down before turning off onto a side street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T22:04:25.883" Title="Hand signaling while decelerating" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;signals&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3408" CreationDate="2011-04-12T06:26:43.090" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's a known problem, at least to me. The work-around is not to signal, or to use head-turning and lane positioning as a signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is very dependent on the situation. In the worst case, fast moving traffic on a busy, multilane road with no bike lane/bus lane/parking that would allow me to slow down out of traffic I will overshoot and just pull in at the next opportunity. If I knew about it in advance I'd avoid that road. My experience of signalling and slowing down, forcing the moronist behind me to also slow, is that it doesn't help. I get signals back, shall we say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists in Melbourne do signal more than they do in Sydney, but rarely to motorists. The most common is the right arm out &quot;I'm pulling out in front of you&quot; which when done assertively works almost all the time for persuading motorists to let you turn. (left arm/move left for countries that ride on the right hand side of the road). The slowing down signal I don't recall ever seeing except in primary school. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Signals between cyclists are much more common, but that's because they're safer, easier and the following cyclist is more likely to notice them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T06:26:43.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3408" CreationDate="2011-04-12T08:54:39.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to signalling is that you should not endanger yourself while doing it. To be honest, I only ever signal if I think that there is someone else in the immediate vicinity who will benefit from seeing the signal because I don't think that they understand what I'm going to do from the already available other cues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car brake light is passive, the cyclist trying to do the same is most definitely active. You should try to create other cues - head-turns, road position - if you think that someone behind you is going to be impacted by your slowing down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know another cyclist is riding close, then just sit up a bit - this is definitely a cue to them, it will also help slow you down (a little) by providing more resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did actually see someone use the official (i.e. UK Highway Code) &quot;I'm braking or slowing down&quot; arm signal on a bike yesterday for the first time in probably years. Signals between cyclists are much more common, though, but are much easier to deliver quickly and without upsetting the balance as much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-14T01:57:06.123" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T01:57:06.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3417" CreationDate="2011-04-12T14:30:15.330" Score="60" ViewCount="107257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my hybrid 24-speed for a bit over 3 years now, and just last weekend, when looking for a bike for my wife, discovered internal gears. Suffice to say it blew my mind when I saw 7-speed internal gear hubs, for example on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20120404203456/http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-AU/bikes/model/suede.city.w.silver.purple/7519/44424/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Giant Suede Women's&lt;/a&gt; bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, &lt;strong&gt;what are the trade-offs between the internal gear hub and an external gear hub and derailleur?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming they'll be more expensive? but what about the set of gear ratios they provide? the reliability? the serviceability? tuning/maintenance? other effects on the chain/sprockets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going back to the bike linked above, there's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20131219185053/http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-AU/bikes/model/suede.w.lavender/7519/44423/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;near-identical model&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20200724125403/https://99spokes.com/bikes/giant/2010/suede-w-lavender&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt;) with 21-speed external gears that's considerably cheaper, and I'm wondering whether the extra money for the internal gears would buy any real benefits (e.g. longer lasting chains/sprockets or fewer services), or whether it's just for fashion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="50902" LastEditDate="2020-07-24T14:01:40.397" LastActivityDate="2020-07-24T14:01:40.397" Title="What are the pros and cons of internal gears?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3412" CreationDate="2011-04-12T14:46:05.507" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have an internal hub, but I want one for the following reasons:  They are sealed and protected from the elements.  They are nice for commuting because you can shift them while stopped... If you've ever stopped at a red light on a normal bike and struggled to get going again because of your gear, you can appreciate this.  With an Internal hub, you can just change to an easy gear and then get going.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, I've had a derailleur brake off before and I've had a different one shift into my spokes!  These failures will not happen with internal hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages are that they add a bit of weight and tie you to that wheel.  That is, you can't just switch out wheels like you can with a derailleur.  Finally, while internal hubs are seen as very dependable, if something does go wrong internally, you have to bring it to an expert.   Wikipedia has a good summary:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hub_gear&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hub_gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T14:46:05.507" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3412" CreationDate="2011-04-12T15:33:54.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much as above.   They are generally dependable, maintenance free, and easy to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also heavy, difficult-to-impossible to service, and sometimes a bear to get loose if you have a flat tire.&#xA;I fixed a flat on a Nexus hub wheel a couple of years ago, and getting the thing back in place and getting the cable properly lined up and tensioned was...Frustrating.   I understand the new ones are better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, this one was so difficult that the previous owner had left a flat tube in the bike and had inserted one of those &quot;straight&quot; tubes with the sealed ends... On top of the old tube.&#xA;Really strange....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T15:33:54.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3416" CreationDate="2011-04-12T17:16:00.003" Score="9" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally clip on the Park chain cleaner, fill it with a cheap department store degreaser (Rubbermaid), run it through for a few seconds, then fill the chain cleaner with water once or twice or more to get rid of the degreaser.  I've been trying out Purple Extreme lube lately.  I'm not getting 100 miles out of an application of Purple Extreme (Conditions have been wet, but not &quot;extreme&quot;) .  I'm convinced that some of the degreaser stays behind and breaks down the new lube.  Could this product contain detergents that stay behind and destroy the new lube?  Is this the difference between $10.00 per gallon department store degreaser and $50.00 per gallon &quot;Bicycle&quot; degreaser? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T21:34:28.770" Title="does my degreaser hang around and destroy my new chain lube?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3415" CreationDate="2011-04-12T21:16:07.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's certainly possible that degreaser is staying around and breaking down the lube. I use a citrus degreaser (green label but I don't remember the name), and I've never had issues scrubbing it off the chain or cassettes. Also make sure you use a rag to wipe the chain down before you apply the lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-12T21:34:28.770" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T21:34:28.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3412" CreationDate="2011-04-12T23:03:17.460" Score="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main advantages of hub gears over a 1xN derailleur system are reliability and being able to shift while stationary. Since there's no derailleur or chain tensioner it's easier to add a full chaincase which means chains last a lot longer and with mudguards added there are no dirty bits accessible on the bike. They're heavier and harder to maintain if you have to maintain them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a whole style of bike that uses those advantages (and others) and from a US perspective is called a &quot;european&quot; or &quot;dutch&quot; bike. Broadly, it's a bike built for someone who is not a cyclist, rather they are someone who uses a bike for transport. It should just work, no special clothes or rituals required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to a 3xN derailleur system a hub gear is much simpler to operate and maintain. All the gears are in order and you only have one shifter. The compromise is a smaller gear range (Rohloff being the obvious exception), ranging from a little smaller for the Shimano Alfine 11 down to &quot;yes, there are two gears&quot; for the back-pedal-shift 2 speed hubs. But in return you get extremely long life for the chain and cogs (10,000km or more for the chain, 20,000km+ for cogs) and a general low-fuss maintenance requirement. That also makes it practical to put a hub gear in places where derailleur gears could go but you wouldn't want them - under my load carrying quad, for instance, where the derailleur hung down between the rear wheels just waiting for a rock to break it off, and turning the thing over for maintenance is a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the rear wheel on a hub geared bike ranges from nigh on impossible (some of the Shimano hubs, and some dutch bikes have chain cases that are just irritating to work on) to almost trivial (a Rohloff with QR). The problem is the shifter cable - you have to detach it to remove the wheel. Good ones just unhook, poor ones you have to undo the adjuster barrel and re-adjust the gears on reassembly. Shimano are getting better, but Rohloff and Sturmey Archer have it down pat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Servicing hubs is not often done these days. The manufacturers generally allow bike shops to swap out the internals for new, saving the hassle of building a new wheel, but that's about it. I had three Shimano Nexus 8 hubs fail at 5,000km intervals, and every time I just got replacement internals rather than the hub being repaired (the last time, of course, Shimano had stopped making the hub so I had to throw away the wheel). With Rohloff the same thing might happen, except after 150,000km or more... most people don't ride that far in a lifetime. Also, with Rohloff you change the oil every 5,000-10,000km, at a cost of half an hour of your time and about $20 for an oil change kit (or $10 for just the oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually run a Schwalbe Marathon Plus on the rear of my hub geared bikes, which trades a little extra rolling resistance for huge puncture resistance. It's part of the &quot;my bike just works&quot; philosophy. I'd rather reliably take an extra 30s to get to work than at random intervals be 5-10 minutes late and dirty due to a puncture (because you know that you'll only get punctures when you're in a hurry and it's raining).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2013-06-25T22:42:31.033" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T22:42:31.033" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-13T03:42:14.517" Score="2" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is for those who are familiar with analytical engineering of bikes (not using Finite element analysis)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay guys, I'm trying to do an optimization project on the frame of a bicycle to minimize the weight.  My trouble is that I know I cannot treat the members as two force members (meaning the only force in them occurs axially since there is bending because of the weld joints).  Does anyone know how to go about this? or how to model the weld joints as forces acting on beams so maybe a superposition method can be used.&#xA;Anyone know or have a good source for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1350" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T22:15:01.667" Title="Mechanical Engineering Designing/ Analyzing Stress in the beam members of a bicycle" Tags="&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3418" CreationDate="2011-04-13T04:32:48.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0006R7TZQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Lords of the Chainring&quot;&lt;/a&gt; might help. It's been a while since I've looked at my copy,  from memory it was more focussed on dynamic balance but I vaguely recall a section on basic frame analysis. The fact that people spent a long time trying to come up with simple(ish) equations for forces on a bike frame and failed repeatedly suggests to me that once you get past very simple approximations you're probably not going to succeed at all. Hence the popularity of FEA and iterative prototyping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The forces on a frame are quite complex, and I'm not sure there's any part of the frame that could be analysed as two force member. The Slingshot bike had a cable downtube but that was an interesting bike to ride (twisting the handlebars visibly moved the front wheel sideways). Remember that there's torsion as well and bending and tension going on in most joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at carbon fibre layup patterns will probably give you a better idea of the forces because fibre has very directional strength and is laid to resist the actual forces. Metals are homomorphic and gain a lot of unnecessary strength in a bike frame from being thick enough to deal with highly directional forces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-04-17T22:15:01.667" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T22:15:01.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-13T11:50:38.117" Score="4" ViewCount="1087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering whether anyone had any retrogradations for a lightweight rear pannier rack and a rack bag which would go on my Giant Defy 2.5 (2009).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a 3 day cycle in a fortnight and will need to carry the bare essentials (i.e. toothbrush, travel wash, spare inners, jacket etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;nick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1352" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T12:39:15.883" Title="Panniers for a Giant Defy 2.5 (2009)" Tags="&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3420" CreationDate="2011-04-13T12:39:15.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on what I saw on the Giant Bicycle site, it looks like that model has braze-ons for attaching a standard rack - so just about any rack will work.  My personal favorite for light use (commuting and short tours) would be the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackburndesign.com/racks_mirrors.html#ex_1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blackburn EX-1&lt;/a&gt;.  If you need additional support for heavier loads there is a model with an extra support strut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the panniers, you have a ton of choices and need to weigh factors like size, materials, attachment mechanism, water resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite budget panniers are the house-brand bags put out by REI in the US.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/780451&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Novara Transfer Panniers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For heavier use, better performance in wet weather, etc, I would recommend you look at bags by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/cartgenie/prodList.asp?scat=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ortlieb&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really only carrying the bare essentials, and don't need the full packing volume you could use just one pannier, or you could use a 'rack trunk' that sits on top of the rick &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/us/all-categories/seat-bags-trunk-bags/tailrider.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;similar to this one made by Arkel&lt;/a&gt;, or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/780461&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Novara Commuter Rack Trunk&lt;/a&gt;.  My favorite is the Novara because of the side pockets that fold out and expand into mini-panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T12:39:15.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3408" CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:42:48.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is important to signal at all times because we can never be SURE that we are totally aware of every other road user.  Have you ever had a car &quot;suddenly&quot; appear on your left, seemingly out of nowhere?  If you haven't at some point you will.  It is natural.  Sometimes, despite heightened awareness, we miss something in the near-chaos that is a busy street.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I signal in almost any situation that I would in an automobile--when turning, when changing lanes, when coming to a stop.  If I am going to eventually get squashed by a car, I don't want it to be for lack of trying to communicate clearly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the situation that you describe, slowing down to make a turn, I would make two observations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are decellerating so quickly that you feel like your body may move forward, you should consider &lt;strong&gt;applying the brakes more gradually&lt;/strong&gt;.  No one is going to get impatient if it takes you five seconds instead of three to slow down.  Slow down slowly enough that you can safely signal your intention.  No sane motorist really wants to hit you.  If they know what you are doing, they should respond in order to avoid damage to their expensive car (if nothing else--if they hit me, I'm going to definitely scratch that paint and I am uninsured).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When in a situation where you must apply the brake rapidly while signalling, learn to &lt;strong&gt;assume a lower body position&lt;/strong&gt; when you do this.  On a commuter bike with riser bars, this would mean signalling with one arm while moving your head and shoulders down and bending the other arm.  Use the non-signalling arm as a shock-absorber while maintaining control of your bicycle.  This may sound like a challenge, but with a little practice it will come naturally.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the worst possible scenario, you would brake hard while signalling and have your other arm with its elbow locked.  Doing that, all of the g-forces are transmitted through your arm to your torso which may then feel like it's going to pivot over the handlbars.  No one likes that sensation.  Use more of your body to absorb that force and position yourself to account for it beforehand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T15:42:48.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3429" CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:33:11.197" Score="12" ViewCount="17407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get a rack for my bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=Haibike+Land+Herren&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Haibike Land&lt;/a&gt;). The problem is that the bottom screws are blocked by the disc brake:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uqiSt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(If it is not obvious from the photo, the brake and its mounting screws are in the way of the rack.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any solutions for this problem? In my LBS they just told me that bikes with disc brakes are not meant to have racks (although they've told me this after telling me it should fit fine and ordering it). But I'm sure I'm not the only one with this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thought I could put some washer or spacer there but I'm a bit worried about the torque caused by such solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clear things up, here is the side photo (from bottom in the direction of the saddle):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jcbFX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1331" LastEditorUserId="1331" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T11:18:42.347" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T17:10:16.897" Title="Rack (&amp; Pannier) for a bike with disc brakes" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3426" CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:58:19.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get some spacers, but you wouldn't be able to safely put much weight on it. Probably not much more weight than you could using a seatpost mounted rack. You're pretty much out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the LBS guys said is correct concerning most disc braked bikes. There are bicycles that have disc brakes that are intended to have racks. For example, I have a salsa fargo, which is such a bike. However, the Fargo, and other similar bikes, mount the disc brake caliper in the rear triangle.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74Iv7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T16:58:19.263" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3408" CreationDate="2011-04-13T17:01:58.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The work around is to practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes practice to be able to turn around and look behind you while still biking straight. It sounds really simple and easy, but it's not. Signaling while slowing is the same way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T17:01:58.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3426" CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:56:54.200" Score="11" Body="&lt;h1&gt;2019 Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racks specifically designed for bikes with Disc brakes have become much more common. It shouldn't be hard to find something now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Original 2011 answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the LBS is partially correct, that bikes with disc brakes aren't generally designed to hold a rack.  That said, I think there's a few solutions (other than getting a bike built to have disc brakes and a rack):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a seat-post (or similar) mounted rack.  Downsides: very low weight limit, often not good at holding panniers, and probably prone to spinning around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use &quot;p-clamps&quot; instead of the built-in holes.  These are rubber-covered clamps that would go around the seat stays to give you a hole for a rack up above the problematic disc brake stuff. This is more usually done on bikes that simply don't have a place to bolt anything on. Downsides: may put the rack too far up, may put the rack too far forward, may slide, may not be as strong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spacers and a longer bolt with a somewhat wide rack. So that the rack's stays run to the outside of the brake hardware.  It seems to me that too much weight would tend to try to bend the bolts down and the holes up.  Would be much better if you could find a rack that could use both holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know the right term, but it might be possible to find a metal piece that screws into both of those holes and gives you a new hole behind that location.  I've seen some racks mounted like that to get the rack back further for more heel clearance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are racks made to go on bikes with disc brakes.  The one I found first ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Racks/ExplorerTubularRack_discMount&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.topeak.com/products/Racks/ExplorerTubularRack_discMount&lt;/a&gt; ) basically has the spacer I suggest in #3 built in.  The second one I found ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tubus.com/en/rear-carriers/disco&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.tubus.com/en/rear-carriers/disco&lt;/a&gt; ) basically comes into the holes from behind instead of directly above, like I suggest in #4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rack specifically designed to mount on a bike with disc brakes would be best, of course.  The other options might be cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T17:10:16.897" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T17:10:16.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:02:16.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Germany, only kids below a certain age - I guess 11, are allowed to use the sidewalk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But many people of all age and sex use the sideways, drive in the wrong direction on bike ways, don't stop at red lights and cross the lane at the pedestrian path, which makes them hard to estimate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However: Stay on the road! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a street I use often, think Paris-Roubaix, very poor condition - you nearly can't use it with the bike, but the sidewalk is usable. However - there is a way which is more than twice the distance, which avoids the cobblestone pavement. But since it allows much faster cycling, I don't lose much, taking the detour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1063" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-01T00:59:47.293" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T00:59:47.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3426" CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:08:16.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a disc-compatible rack.  Two excellent options are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldmanmountain.com/Pages/RackPages/RearRacks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Old Man Mountain&lt;/a&gt; racks and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tubus.com/en/rear-carriers/disco&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tubus Disco&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A long bolt with spacers can also be made to work, but you'll want to use a high-quality stainless bolt, keep the weight minimal (less than 15kg) and probably carry a spare bolt along as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T19:08:16.020" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3408" CreationDate="2011-04-13T21:02:24.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My workaround is: Early signalling. One place, I cross often, has a crossing before the crossing, while it is downhill pretty fast - so early hand sign would mean, I take the first road, not the second, but I take the second. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I just turn the head right, and since it is a right turn (and we drive on the right side) it's not so much of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1063" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T21:02:24.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3341" CreationDate="2011-04-14T06:51:29.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I had similar problem, I rode to the dealers of my bike and they told me that the reason is my pads. Before, I changed the wheel and made any mistake when I set it back. Workers have eliminated this trouble very quickly and cheaply&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1356" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T06:51:29.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3340" CreationDate="2011-04-14T08:07:10.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out that there was a male screw thread inside the female and I needed an allen key to get it out. (I had to go to bike shop to learn that, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that point the rest was clear sailing, following the instructions closely, and watching some online video tutorials about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-14T18:14:12.817" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T18:14:12.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3440" CreationDate="2011-04-14T13:41:20.403" Score="7" ViewCount="8407" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of owning a Unicycle, as opposed to owning a bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of several:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are lighter and smaller than bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to maintain, fewer moving parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They provide good practice for balancing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T23:52:37.650" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T14:41:23.050" Title="What are the advantages of owning a Unicycle?" Tags="&lt;unicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2011-04-14T14:06:11.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Impressing your friends with your awesome skills should you master the thing?   Potential work in the circus field?&#xA;Vast improvement in balance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the downside... Lost skin, closer relations with your orthopedic man...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  I've always been rather balance-challenged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T14:06:11.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2011-04-14T18:25:51.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From an exercise standpoint, a unicycle works a much different set of muscles than a bicycle.  You use a lot more core strength to maintain balance and steer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1357" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T18:25:51.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3408" CreationDate="2011-04-14T20:19:18.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one big turn at the bottom of a hill on my ride into work.  I usually signal that I'm going to slow down, then gradually slow down.  Halfway through slowing, I do a real quick turn signal and then get back to slowing.  Then right before the turn I signal a little more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't really need to keep your arm out the entire time for people to get where you're going.  A quick split-second signal usually isn't going to make you lose stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T20:19:18.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2011-04-14T21:50:13.990" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;One less obvious advantage is that they are not a bicycle, legally speaking. So while you can't ride on the road in most places, you can take one on public transport and into buildings etc. I commuted to university on one for that reason - I could ride into my lectures :) For a while anyway, there's the &quot;Moz Memorial Rule Against Unicycles&quot; now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They work a different set of muscles, and train a differet set of reflexes. Balance skills are useful to have, and the entertainment value of a unicycle should not be ignored. Both in the &quot;I'm waiting, I know, I'll practice stairs&quot; and the &quot;look at me, put money in my hat&quot; senses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For commuting I found a 26&quot; was ideal as a compromise between speed and size, although I ended up using a 20&quot; a lot just for easy of parking. If I could have got the Schlumpf hub it would have been perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T21:50:13.990" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3443" CreationDate="2011-04-14T23:47:14.363" Score="4" ViewCount="4176" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my cycle to work this morning I noticed my back wheel was skidding out as I was going up a fairly steep hill. It did it enough that I thought I'd probably gotten a flat, however upon inspection it seemed fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit of newbie (perhaps done 25 rides on my new-ish road bike) - am I right in thinking my back tire maybe just needs a bit more air in it? It seemed pretty pressurised although some of the bumps I went over today seemed a bit more more shocking than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some other things I should look for? I wasn't turning very hard at all when it lost traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;John.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update - details here:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportstracklive.com/track/detail/johnhunt/Cycling/159913&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sportstracklive.com/track/detail/johnhunt/Cycling/159913&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update2:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Yes, I do wear cycling shoes that clip into the pedals, and it did happen at a particularly steep point on the hill. I guess I ought to try and stay seated a bit more - just after the previous two hills it's a lot easier to attack up the last one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastEditorUserId="1358" LastEditDate="2011-04-15T02:40:29.030" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T14:58:38.520" Title="Back wheel skidding out" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2011-04-14T23:48:40.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good for your posture and lower back I would have thought as you're engaging those muscles in order to balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T23:48:40.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3441" CreationDate="2011-04-14T23:53:19.917" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the tyre pressure anyway. You should be within the limits printed on the tyre. I would be a little surprised if low pressure caused sliding, normally it's high pressure on a rough surface that causes your wheel to skip across the top of the bumps and move sideways when it's airbourne between bumps. In that case lifting your bodyweight slightly with your legs can help soak up the bumps and increase traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you were unweighting the rear wheel by standing and pedalling hard that's not too unusual. Try to avoid it by pedalling more smoothly, ideally from the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: at that speed I think it's just basic bike handling skills. As you ride more that will be both less likely to happen and bother you less when it does. It might help to play on gravel a bit (possibly on a MTB or old bike). If you really want to push that along either mountain biking or bike polo are good ways to improve your bike handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T23:53:19.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3230" CreationDate="2011-04-15T00:47:38.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to crash and it's un-avoidable, aim for a bush or something, or even a wall you can 'scrape' along - as long as you're wearing clothes you shouldn't get too beaten up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only accidents I've had were when I first got my bike, came to a stop and forgot to unclip. I wasn't hurt, but I looked very silly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T00:47:38.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3441" CreationDate="2011-04-15T01:15:51.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This little article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#skip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;skid stops&lt;/a&gt; implies you're strong enough to skid your rear wheel: especially if you're bouncing; and perhaps even more so if your bike has gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you wearing shoes which clip to pedals? Perhaps (I don't know) you should concentrate on 'spinning' in a circular way (pushing forward and down, pulling back and up), instead of just thumping in one direction on the down-stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T01:15:51.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2011-04-15T02:43:02.693" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presumably a 50% reduction in punctures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T02:43:02.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3441" CreationDate="2011-04-15T14:58:38.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unusual to break your tires loose on pavement, but it happens all the time on mountain bikes.  Much of the hill-climbing technique off-road is keeping enough weight over the rear wheel to prevent spinning, and enough over the front wheel to prevent wheelies and lack of steering.&#xA;If this is happening on pavement, I suspect you're standing and perhaps leaning pretty far forward?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This, coupled with insufficient tire pressure (and low gears) might cause a lack of traction.&#xA;Normally, when climbing steep hills in the standing position, you'd want to shift &quot;up&quot; a couple of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T14:58:38.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3408" CreationDate="2011-04-15T22:04:25.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In UK we drive on the left.  When making a right turn on my bike I carry out the same procedure I use when driving my car.  I turn my head over my right shoulder and look for a gap in the traffic, when there is a big enough gap I make a positive signal with my right arm and steer out to the left of the line in the center of the road.  I apply my brake with my left hand gently to slow my speed a bit while signaling and about 50M before my turning I put both hands on my brakes.  Car driver like you to be positive with your positioning and signaling on the road as they can pass me on my left without having to stop.  The trafic comming towards me quite often slow down and flash their lights to let me cross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest problems is if you are on a steep hill and want to turn right especially if you are climbing out of the saddle.  You then have to turn your head and look, then position yourself correctly on the road without a signal, I find that more of a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T22:04:25.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3452" CreationDate="2011-04-16T20:31:08.393" Score="5" ViewCount="2296" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its size is 2.2cm times 1.5cm. The width of axle is 0.92 cm (measured on the curved area, not probably the right way to measure) for axle in the hub Shimano Nexus SG 8R20 (12mm stop washer but cannot find its axle width from service manual). Its thread is unknown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, see the picture. I want to learn how to measure the tread inside the thing and other conventions by which such things are named, such as the maximum torgue in Nm, so I can buy the thing in any unknown store. My local hardware store said that you cannot get it as bulk product because it has special thread. I am however interested whether there is any cheaper non-bicycle-store substitute to this thing. If not, I am still looking for ways to substitute this thing for inner hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9GBfL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Update, more images]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that the left cap nut is in a very bad condition, it was new 6 months ago. The washer seems to be a bit damaged when looked from the side. The metal spaghetti shows that the internals of the cap nuts are broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I5QJ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The serrated washer eats into the paint, making very bad to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tc1Ee.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking something better options to this inner hub thing, the expensive easily-broken cap nuts and damaging paint are not the way to go again.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HzbcH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;question with similar sizing problem covering nuts and axles &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2047/what-size-can-be-the-nuts-holding-the-front-wheel&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but front wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harris explaining the axle hassle that affects the nuts &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/axles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;investigating only the axle length, probably the reason why the cap nuts gets broken seasonally, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3466/too-short-axle-breaking-cap-nuts-in-hub-bike-what-to-do&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T02:53:22.567" Title="What is the technical name for this nut-bolt thing with inner hubs?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3453" CreationDate="2011-04-16T20:50:23.360" Score="9" ViewCount="4817" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local bicycle group bought very nice but very expensive torque wrenches (if I can remember right they cost about €300–500). My local discount store markets them for about €50. My local auction site has them ranging from a few euros to many hundred euros. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't care about product recommendations. &lt;em&gt;I want to know how I can objectively evaluate them.&lt;/em&gt; I know that even a superb one can deteriorate due to poor handling, hence my local bike group locks them. It must always be unloaded to 0&amp;nbsp;Nm after use so that the spring won't deteriorate, non-verified information. I am planning to invest in one because I tend to destroy the metallic things such as these &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3449/what-is-the-technical-name-for-this-nut-bolt-thing-with-inner-hubs&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. If not at all possible, please let me know whether I could use any hardware store tool for bicycle things or should I invest in one marketed to bicyclists?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;P.S. by torque wrench I mean the thing that shows Newton meter units.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T23:32:38.887" Title="How to objectively evaluate torque wrenches?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;evaluation&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3450" CreationDate="2011-04-17T01:06:30.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want a torque wrench that's made for the range of torques that you expect to use. A wrench with too large a range will give you limited precision in the range you need. Basically, it will be harder to tell if you are applying the correct torque. One that's too small won't let you apply the required torque. The accuracy of the reading may also be important. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.filzer.com/products.php?id=120&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this wrench&lt;/a&gt; (which I found with a Google search so it's not a recommendation) has a range of 20 to 108 Nm with a 4% accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people prefer a wrench that clicks when a preset torque is reached so they know when to stop. Others feel that reading from a scale works well enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a discussion at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-158418.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-158418.html&lt;/a&gt; that may be helpful to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T01:06:30.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3449" CreationDate="2011-04-17T03:57:01.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They called cap nuts, and often the washers will have an anti-rotation tab on them that is bent in so it slots into the dropout. They have an oval hole in them to lock onto the flats on the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky the thread is an M10 fine (M10x0.1mm) and an industrial fastener outlet will have them (I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bolt.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.bolt.com.au&lt;/a&gt;), but there are a few fairly common sizes around so it would pay to make sure. If you are working on older bikes and buying tools a small thread pitch gauge would be a useful thing to have, they're under $20 here. But trying to measure the thread inside a cap nut with one is very hard work and youŕe likely to get it wrong. The better alternative is to buy an &lt;a href=&quot;http://biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=48330112085&amp;amp;d=single&amp;amp;c=Tools&amp;amp;sc=Hub-and-Axle&amp;amp;tc=Axle-Thread-Gauge&amp;amp;item_id=WB-TGR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;axle thread set&lt;/a&gt; - basically a short section of each of the common threads on a backing plate. You try the axle or nut you have on each until you find the one that it fits (the tool is clearly labeled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your torque question and the pic above, I suspect you are trying to do up the nuts to stop the wheel sliding forward in the dropout. For that you need serrated washers that cut into the dropout. And damage it. The better option is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3028/fixie-rear-wheel-slippage-problem&quot;&gt;chain tug&lt;/a&gt; as previously discussed here. A torgue wrench won help much with old nuts and axles, as they tend to lose strength as they wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit after the new photos: The Shimano anti-rotation washers are nice and thick, also serrated, so need to go on the outside of the frame (where they are now). You've already done enough damage to the dropouts by digging things into them. So you need a thin chain tug to fit inside between frame and hub. Also one that you can file off any protruding aligning bits, since your dropout opens forward rather than backward. I would look for one that has two screws rather than one, so it will be more stable on that curve at the back of the dropout. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0047X5BNC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I have one like that&lt;/a&gt; on my commuter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z8Cqs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Edited your photo to add the tug&quot;&gt; or at least an outline of where it should go - obviously behind the frame rather than in front of it as sketched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T23:33:27.740" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3450" CreationDate="2011-04-17T04:17:06.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following on from Wayne's answer, there's a few things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;beam and needle, beam and dial gauge or set torque type? Needle ones are cheap and robust but not very accurate or easy to use, dial gauge is the fragile, expensive and accurate version of needle, and set torque ones are more fragile but not necessarily more accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;how easy it is to set the desired torque, assuming you buy a set torque one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;accuracy. Both how much accuracy you need, and how well the device keeps its accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;how robust it needs to be. If it's going to kept in it's protective case in a cupboard, and only used by you then any of the above will work. But if you'll be using in shared workshops other people will borrow it, so the beam-and-gauge type will not be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only use the set torque ones because I often find that I can't easily see the dial/gauge when I'm using the wrench. My preference for evaluating accuracy is to pay of access to a decent torque wrench and do a straight comparison by hooking them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;. Pics with labels from hhh's comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beam and needle type torque wrench&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOIQG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Beam and needle type torque wrench&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beam and dial gauge torque wrench (used to get these with a mechanical dial, modern ones are all electronic - for the price you expect as much)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uQqBV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Beam and dial gauge torque wrench&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Click set type torque wrench - there's a scale and twist to set handle on the end of the shaft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ukz9P.png&quot; alt=&quot;Click set type torque wrench&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T23:31:38.467" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T23:31:38.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-17T09:26:48.770" Score="9" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to fetch an outsider from about 20km far away and I want to use my bicycles. I have used roller skaters with a bicycle to fetch my friend, I let my friend to use the bike while I will stuck to the back at the destination -- it is very cool and convenient (light weight) when you know your friend but doing it with unknown outsider is not be the best option because it requires trust between the participants. My next best option is to use my foldable bike stuck to my back-bag and my diamond-framed bike but the foldable bike weighs about 10 kg. I have been considering a number of options such as tandem, an unicycle and side-cargo thing but many options tend to be expensive. I don't want to use rack based sitting approach because it would damage the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you fetch your friends or outsiders over long distances when you need to carry the transportation equipments to one-direction alone and then allow the friend/outsider to use the equipments to move to the other direction with you? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are suggesting a thing such as tandem that may be too expensive, let me know whether you could hack your standard bike such as diamond framed bike to a tandem so that I could get it cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-17T13:09:03.580" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T01:45:05.477" Title="What is the cheapest option to fetch a person over a long-distance with bicycles?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3454" CreationDate="2011-04-17T13:07:11.337" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I drop my wife off at the train station, we use a folding bike and a trailer. She rides the folding bike there, and her suitcase rides in the trailer behind my bike. However, while inexpensive used folding bikes can be found, getting a trailer may be too expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll either need to carry someone on your bike, or find a way to bring along another bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can hold onto another bike while you're riding, wheeling it along next to you, but that's not very safe (especially for rides of any distance). Since you've indicated you don't want to carry someone on your rack, I would consider buying an inexpensive beater bike and a truck bed mount, attaching the mount to a bike's rack to receive the front fork of the bike you're pulling. (Here are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Bicycle-Bike-Truck-Bed-Mount/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions&lt;/a&gt; to make one of those inexpensively, scroll down a bit on the page and you'll see a commercially produced version of the same device.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G4cIa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G4cIa.png&quot; alt=&quot;mount to attach bicycle front fork to vehicle&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You take the front wheel off the towed bike and the bolt shown goes where the axle of the front wheel used to. Works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hjVEe.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hjVEe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ride with one bike behind the other, strapping the front wheel of the bike you're towing to the side of your rack, or just carry it. You'll also have the empty rack for the trip back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T01:45:05.477" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T01:45:05.477" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3462" CreationDate="2011-04-17T16:46:55.327" Score="9" ViewCount="7281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of Shimano XT wheels and recently had issues with the hub on the rear wheel requiring new cones and bearings. These were fitted carefully but I've had issues getting the right adjustment tightening the cones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the one hand I can tighten it to a point which effectively prohibits rotation, and there is no play. But to get the hub to anything close to a smooth rotation I get a tiny amount of play. I have experimented extensively and cannot find any way to balance not having any play with having smooth rotation - in context smooth means turning cleanly, I realise there may be some friction, particularly with new parts. Conversely when I loosen so there is just a hint of movement I get very smooth rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been testing with very small increments in tightness - probably around 3 degrees at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of is that I've used a general purpose grease rather than a hub bearing specific one, but I would expect that to be a difference between degrees of smoothness, rather than the difference between working and not working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone provide any tips or suggestions as to how to address this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1371" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T15:51:38.237" Title="Trouble getting the right cup and cone hub adjustment" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1221" CreationDate="2011-04-17T20:53:48.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your illustration you could find a wooden pallete that is the right size to hold the front wheels of your bikes. You can find wooden pallets in skips or building sites and if you ask nicely, they're usually free. It requires little DIY work other then a few coatings of water resistant wood dye&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o9Xen.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/9074/woodenpallets4.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-11-20T14:37:23.173" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T14:37:23.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-17T22:09:15.730" Score="1" ViewCount="2550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Fox RP23 rear shock which I'm very happy with, apart from the apparent ineffectiveness of the ProPedal setting.  Bob is very noticeable on climbs in both positions.  It's hard to say which is better.  I don't expect to eliminate it completely, I just want to know that I've got the optimal setup for my bike and riding style. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/07/eng/rear_shocks/float_rp23.htm#ProPedal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The manual&lt;/a&gt; is pretty vague so I'm wondering if anyone has any useful tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T03:27:57.367" Title="How should I set up my rear shock (with ProPedal) to minimise bob when climbing?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3456" CreationDate="2011-04-17T22:20:20.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means that there are microscopic imperfections in the bearing surfaces. It's a very common problem, especially with old or cheap parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try buying new cones from another company, and see if you have better luck. But if you've had these hubs for a while, then it's possible that the problem is with the cups, not the cones (I assume we're talking about the traditional type of hub, where the cup is a part of the hub body). In that case, there's nothing to do but replace the wheels - or, if the play in the bearing is still small, just live with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T22:20:20.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3456" CreationDate="2011-04-18T00:57:14.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lever between the bearing surfaces and the rim is quite large - a small amount of bearing play translates to quite a lot of movement at the rim. And bearings need a certain amount of play. Anything less than a millimetre of movement at the rim is acceptable IMO. Not ideal, but acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you cleaned the cups, cones and axle before you started? Residual grit will make this difficult, as well as causing premature wear. When you do this look for signs of wear on the cups. If they're worn you might be able to get new ones, but it's likely you'll need a new hub (usually meaning a new wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technique when adjusting the cones is also important. How are you holding the axle when you're adjusting the cones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, remember that the clamping force when you fix the wheel into the bike is enough to change the bearing play. Especially with single-speed or hub gear setups where people often overtighten the axle nuts. Usually the reduces the play/tightens the bearings, but if your axle is nearly broken it could loose them. If you didn't get a new axle with your new cones it is worth doing so, if for no other reason than guaranteeing that the axle is straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T00:57:14.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1827" CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:50:35.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have both Rotor q, and Biopace, I traced the oval of all the rings on paper and discovered they have the same oval shape. I agree with Rotor Q's method, so on my road bike I mounted the Biopace rings two bolt holes over from the normal location(5 bolt crank), and the orientation is very close to that of The Rotor Q's on my MTN bike. The biggest performance change I noticed is that I can stand and peddle longer with the oval rings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1376" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T13:50:35.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3456" CreationDate="2011-04-18T15:46:12.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting the adjustment right is sometimes difficult and is as much art as science.   I rebuild lots of old bikes, and frequently have to rebuild wheels. Here's what I do...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, be sure to work from one side.  Normally the non-drivetrain side; that way your axle will stay centered.  Clean everything up and inspect carefully.   Since you've already bought new cones... Should be no problem.&#xA;The difficulty, as you note, is making the final adjustment.  You can get everything all set up so that it's apparently perfect.   Then you apply the cone wrench to hold everything in place and tighten the locknut....And it's too tight.&#xA;The problem is that the axle itself will tend to move when you tighten the locknut.  So...When I get everything set to tighten down, I then clamp a big pair of vise-grips on the other side of the wheel, and hold the thing in my lap so that the vise-grips are held in place by my knee.&#xA;Then, you can hold the cone in place and tighten the locknut with little chance of the axle moving.&#xA;As to the exact adjustment.... It's always been the paradigm that if you have QR skewers, you leave the adjustment so that there's just a tiny, barely perceptible amount of play so that when the skewers are tightened they take up that slack.&#xA;I've never done it.  I always set mine so that the axle rotates freely and there is no perceptible play.  I also don't tighten my skewers nearly as tight as all the &quot;industry&quot; guys recommend.  Don't think it's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T15:46:12.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3456" CreationDate="2011-04-18T15:52:51.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be frustrating to be in this position.  I've finally learned the trick of instead of tightening the lock nut into the cones, back tighten the cone against the locking bolt.  That is, get it so it has no play, but a little resistance and back the cone up into the locking bolt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As M. Werner says, a lot of online instructions say a little bit of play is made up for by the quick release and this may be just the thing for you.  You have to wonder, though, after all the careful adjusting, why would we rely on this inexact method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T15:52:51.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3504" CreationDate="2011-04-18T17:26:02.950" Score="3" ViewCount="1723" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the ripe old age of 20, I finally moved to an area with a BMX track, so this summer I'm finally going to be able to follow my life-long dream of racing. Other than spending a lot of time riding daily and practicing on my home track, what other sort of training should I be doing? What muscles do I need to work, and what's an effective way of doing so (preferably without gym equipment)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1264" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T17:53:00.317" Title="BMX: Training routine for a beginner?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3458" CreationDate="2011-04-18T18:14:45.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pro-Pedal provides bob resistance when on, 1 being lowest.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this.  Pull out the numbered knob and position it so that &quot;3&quot; is in line with lever.  That will give you the most Pro-Pedal.  Now, try riding up a hill with it off and again with it on.  You should notice markedly less bob with it on.  If not, I might take it to a shop to make sure that it is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T18:14:45.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3467" CreationDate="2011-04-18T18:43:16.070" Score="0" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am investigating whether I can insert cap nuts with too short axle attaching area. The image below is exaggerated but the attaching areas are about 1.2cm and 0.95cm. The difference 0.45cm meant in 6 months that the left cap nut became broken, metal spaghetti. I squeezed about 0.2cm from the past configuration due to the wrong conf, now the difference is about 0.25cm, but suppose I place there a chain tug, it will take away about 0.2cm and the problem may re-emerge: again metal spaghetti and broken cap nuts. So how much space should be reserved for cap nuts in axles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cap nut is about 2.1 cm deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.23cm with the right cap nut, no problem, the nut in good condition. After placing there a chain tug, the space is about 1.0cm. 1.04cm with the left cap nut. With chain tug, the space is about 0.8cm. Even with 0.9, I got metal spaghetting and broken cap nut after 6 months. A problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlNpG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjJ7a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;question about naming of cap-nuts &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3449/what-is-the-technical-name-for-this-nut-bolt-thing-with-inner-hubs&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T22:43:04.500" Title="How much axle space for the cap nuts and chain tugs?" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3466" CreationDate="2011-04-18T22:43:04.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would first try a standard nut on the axle because often the cap nuts have a nice rounded entry to the threaded area which means the trhead doesn't start for a millimetre or so. From the photo it looks as though you should have enough axle for a standard nut to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is to grind off some of the antirotation washer so your nut gets more space. Those washers are made of a nice hard steel so they're hard to file. Much better to use a power tool if you can. If not, get the finest, sharpest file you can. And try very hard to keep the surfaces of the washer parallel - if they're not you are much more likely to strip the nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Neil Finn, the cable attachment shown above is the less problematic of the Shimano 8 speed ones that I've seen, but it's still prone to sticking bits of broken gear cable into your fingertips. Note that hhh has a broken strand and there's no end cap on that cable. Unless it's soldered it will eventually fray and then grabbing hold of it to fit it back into the hub gets ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T22:43:04.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2789" CreationDate="2011-04-19T10:22:11.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are 3 main factors when reviewing a pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve connection method, clamp/screw. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve support (not every pump supports both types of bike valve, but most do)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How high a pressure tire do you need? (some road bikes need really high, &gt; 100 psi).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of modern pumps use a clamp to secure to the valve.  These tend to be awkward when you're completely flat and quite challenging to pump assuming there is no hose between the pump and the clamp because you have to keep the pump rigid while pumping to prevent the connection being broken.  I personally favour the more old fashioned way of having a screw on hose.  There are some manufacturers who still do them.  They're also less likely to break off under high pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some extra requirements that might be important to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike fitting (may not be that important)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra features - some contain compartments for puncture repair patches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of pumping - pumps will push in different amounts of air per stroke so some are easy but take a long time to pump up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a good bike fitting for my pump but I don't use it on commutes because it's simpler to keep my pump in a pocket on my bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've found one that looks like it meets your requirements check out the reviews on the bike shopping sites.  They should warn you of potential downfalls with the products.  You might also want to see if your local bike shop can let you try out a demo.  Do it from flat on your own bike because that will give you the most realistic test of a pump.  Pumping an already inflated tire is too easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as practical recommendations go I personally recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lezyne-pressure-drive-mini-pump-medium/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the small pumps from Lezyne&lt;/a&gt;.  (I would link to their own site but it's all flash.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-19T12:16:56.650" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T12:16:56.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3482" CreationDate="2011-04-19T13:15:45.110" Score="7" ViewCount="11670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding my road bike last night when something strange happened.  I stopped at a stop sign.  (I didn't have time to slow down so I was in my highest (fastest) gear.  When I started I had to press a lot of power into my pedals to get the bike moving again.  I was pulling up on the handle bars to press more power into the pedals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A minute or two later I noticed that my bike was trying to change gears on me.  I have non indexed shifters so I expected that I was just between gears.  I adjusted the leavers but could not find a spot (in my current gear) where the chain was not trying to shift.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon further inspection I noticed that my biggest front chainring was slightly bent.  I am not sure if posting a picture would be useful because it is hard to see when it is not spinning.  It seems like it is bent maybe 2-6mm towards the frame of the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you think that I bent my chain ring while pedaling?  It is &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; that it was bent before but something else is now causing my problem (although I don't know what).  Is it possible that I bent my chain right by pedaling hard?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the solution to this problem?  Can I take a hammer to my chain ring and pound it back into shape?  I think that if I do this AND it was bent by hard pedaling then it is likely that it will just be rebent by future hard pedaling.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I need to replace the chain ring how complex is this task?  Is this something relatively easy that I could do at home or do I need to take it to my LBS?  If I take it to my LBS how much should I expect to pay?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T22:46:08.220" Title="Bent Chainring causing chain to attempt changing gears" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3481" CreationDate="2011-04-19T13:19:18.617" Score="23" ViewCount="1719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have moved yet again and I am trying to find a LBS that I trust in my new city.  How do you evaluate a LBS given that you are paying them for services that you don't understand.  (If you did understand them you would just fix your bike yourself).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my criteria is that the bike shop trys to down sell me on their products or attempts to convince me not to buy anything at all.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you evaluate a new LBS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-20T01:53:48.873" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T21:36:32.857" Title="How to choose a Local Bike Shop" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;best-practice&gt;&lt;lbs&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2011-04-19T13:49:44.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I go with how they treat me.  Are they friendly?  Do they try and push whatever they have in stock or seem to be more focused on what I actually need.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the technical side, do they sell your brand?  Are they a roadie or mtb shop or a nice mix?  Does their repair area seem to have work that is being done or is it empty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also question some of the other customers that are in the shop or just coming out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final option is to find a local bike club, they will have a good amount of info on where the best places are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T13:49:44.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3469" CreationDate="2011-04-19T14:22:40.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely the chainring was bent by pedaling alone... The forces are linear.  However, if you were badly cross-chained and put a lot of pressure on the pedals it might aggravate an existing condition to the point you'd start auto shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for straightening the chainring... If it's steel, no problem.  I've done a bunch of them with nothing more than a crescent wrench.  Get directly above the ring so you're looking down at it absolutely vertically, and tweak it gently till it goes straight.  There should be no side-to-side play.&#xA;If the chainring is removable, you can simply unbolt it and tap it straight with a hammer on a flat surface.&#xA;However... If it's aluminum you might do better to buy a new one.  Even a fairly small bend may cause cracking and eventual failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T14:22:40.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2789" CreationDate="2011-04-19T15:53:34.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice:  Get a floor pump with a pressure gauge and an easy way to switch between shraeder and presta.  and get one that is &lt;em&gt;servicable&lt;/em&gt;.  I have the topeak Joe Blow.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/657109&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Take a look at the dual nozzle.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also get a portable pump.  There are several kinds that unfold and remove the pain of portable pumps (I could never get a good pressure in those because they require you to hold it steady while pumping.  (One time I tore my freaking valve off my inner tube) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/648089&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;topeak road morph&lt;/a&gt;.  You can unfold a little foot brace, unfold the handle and it has a flexible tube to attach to your valve, so it is almost as easy to use as a floor pump.  I've saved myself some long walks and pumped up other's flats.  And it has taken abuse, is super light.  I think I got it for $35.00 US.  It also has a gauge and, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-321857.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;according to this thread&lt;/a&gt;, is user-servicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T15:53:34.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3476" CreationDate="2011-04-19T20:58:21.507" Score="10" ViewCount="78626" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for chains at ebay, I see, that they have 106, 114, 116 links and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a racing bike (2x7) and see, that chains are often announced as 6-7-8-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed. Since there are some prime numbers, I guess it is only back gear, which is taken into account? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found one picture with a printing on the containment: &quot;6-7-8 speed&quot; and &quot;116 Links&quot;. So am I right - would this thing be alright for me, or do I have to take more information into account? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacture of the bike is Peugeot, of the mechanics: Shimano exage, an 80ies bike, and the chain lost attachment very abruptly after the cold winter. I'm not stick to Shimano, if I don't need to. Location Germany, if this is of importance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1063" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T20:04:24.103" Title="How many chain links do I need?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3475" CreationDate="2011-04-19T21:30:18.170" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The speed is the number of cogs on the rear cassette. This matters because higher numbers of gears (esp 9speed) mean that the chain must be narrower to fit between them.&#xA;Generally 6-7-8 speed chains are the same and 9 speed are thinner, more than 9 speed is a bit specialized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length isn't as important because you will usually have to shorten the chain to fit your bike. The standard chain is 114 pins (56 links) but you almost never need to know this ( I had to look it up!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T21:30:18.170" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3475" CreationDate="2011-04-20T00:29:57.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only caveat is certain types of Shimano chains which require special pins; they are extra-long and you break off the section after putting the chain together.&#xA;A lot of the chains you get from Walmart and other sources have a &quot;quickie&quot; link, a special link that just snaps the chain together.&#xA;however, you will still likely have to shorten the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best practice is to save the old one and use it to measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T00:29:57.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3475" CreationDate="2011-04-20T01:22:10.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gotta love Sheldon.  Here is ...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some chain length info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T10:42:53.870" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T10:42:53.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2011-04-20T02:14:04.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how I did it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask a question or two here, to get a better understanding from people here of what I'm looking for before I go into the store&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look on Google for a list of stores, and find a shortlist of 15 that are recommended as &quot;The Best Bike Stores in &lt;em&gt;MyCityName&lt;/em&gt;&quot; on a blog (based on a survey, apparently; and that blog entry has 283 comments with diverse local tips)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look into the nearest local LBS: because it's the nearest; because it's on the short-list; and because someone (who destroyed my rear wheel with her car) recommended it as her local. I went in, in winter, on a weekday. I was the only customer. The mechanic (who was building or putting together a a bike, I think) put down her work and came and talked to me for as long as I wanted. I looked over their stock; but didn't go back, because they didn't stock the kind of bike I thought I wanted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look into the LBS nearest my work: they're big but they only sold one make of bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have someone tell me I must go buy one from his LBS, and gave me the name of his contact there. It's a big store, on the short list of 15, 3 mechanics, friendly salesperson, I liked the bike when I tried it ... so, why not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-04-20T02:26:45.120" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T02:26:45.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-04-20T04:21:42.883" Score="17" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Chain Tool or Chain Breaker&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkKwn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used to 'break' a chain by punching out one of the link pins. Needed to shorten a new chain to the correct length or to replace a broken link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chain link is placed in the open slot and the handle turned to force a punch pin into the pin of the chain, pushing it out of the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally the tool needed to be used quite carefully such that the pin would not pushed all the way out, as the same pin was later used to reassemble the chain, using the same tool.  Obviously, if a chain is repeatedly &amp;quot;broken&amp;quot; and reassembled this way at the same link the pin and associated holes in the plates will wear and no longer hold well, so care must be taken to not do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More recently this strategy has changed somewhat.  Shimano now supplies special replacement pins which are equipped with a break-off guide cone on one end, making it easier to reassemble the chain.  (Even with this scheme one should still avoid repeatedly &amp;quot;breaking&amp;quot; and reassembling the chain at the same link, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several other manufacturers now sell what is commonly called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4483#4483&quot;&gt;master link (or quick link)&lt;/a&gt;, which allows a chain to be reassembled without tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4eY3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T06:59:25.580" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-20T04:21:42.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2011-04-20T04:28:41.563" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I make a little list of the nearby shops at each end of my daily commute. Then I visit them. I actually try to visit 4 or 5 regardless of how much I like the first one, just to have an idea of what they're like in case I need one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;decent range of product in the shop. Stuff that's relevant to me, but also a reasonable range of other stuff. Shops with few accessories for sale are usually either just starting out, or just about to fold.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;more than one mechanic. Sorry, but a one man shop is going to suffer from not having anyone to bounce ideas off and having to close when the one mechanic is out learning new stuff (or more often, not out learning at all).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;approachable staff. Do I feel comfortable dealing with the staff? Do they know about bikes or just about sales targets? Are they surly, minimum-wage grunts or are they happy working there? I don't want my bike serviced by someone who's doing the minimum possible to avoid getting fired.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;decent workshop. A corner of the back office with a portable stand is not a workshop. I have a better workshop than that at home (I realise not everyone does). Working in poor conditions means doing a poor job.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;decent range of tools. They should have the expensive bottom bracket taps and so on hanging on the wall next to the usual allen key sets and so on. Those tools are too fragile to drop in a tool drawer, and if the bike shop doesn't know that (or worse, doesn't have the tools at all), I don't want them working on my bike. If they don't have the tools to do the job properly I don't want to risk them trying to bodge it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;sensible opening hours. Look, I know it sucks having to start work at 7am, but that's when the customers start riding past the shop. And closing up at 7pm makes for a very long day, another reason to avoid single-staff-member shops. But if I can't drop my bike off in the morning, grab a loaner bike and pick it up that night, I'm not very happy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;loaner bikes. To a bike shop a restored second hand bike is cheap. They're a useful place to train or evaluate new staff, and customers love them. Expect to see rare or strange parts, because customers do steal stuff off those bikes. But that's ok, it just has to work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;does not have a standard service price. A standard $50 service sounds great but if you're doing any maintenance on your bike at all most of it's going to be wasted. They will replace your 25% worn brake pads because that's in the service. They will not tighten the loose spoke because that is not. And the service will probably be done by an unsupervised 15 year old being paid per bicycle serviced. Sure, if every shop in your area offers it the good shop might have to play along. I'd still be skeptical - and ask them why. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;demands a way to contact me if they find something ugly. A shop that can't ring me to say 'Cthulu lives in your seatpost' hasn't got enough experience to be allowed to pump up tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific to me is that they have to at least know what a Rohloff is, and a Schmidt hub dyno. I have both, and both can be expensively damaged by monkeys with hammers. But also, selling the high end stuff means they have customers who care about their bikes a lot. Few rich louts buy Rohloffs, they just don't have the bling factor. Instead, it's people who really care about their bike. Where I worked for a while it wasn't the rich customers who bought them, it was the &quot;saved up and got the special treat&quot; ones. The rich dudes were the ones with a Mercx frame who wanted an all period restoration and would go &quot;a Phil bottom bracket? Whatever makes it go&quot;. Or they would go somewhere that had a selection of $10k carbon fibre road bikes in stock. Our customers were more the &quot;I'm going to ride around India for a year, I want...&quot;, and had a detailed list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, bike shops with that lot are more likely to be off the main road where rent is cheaper, might not open on Sunday, probably cost a bit more but to me are well worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-04-20T04:34:03.150" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T04:34:03.150" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3469" CreationDate="2011-04-20T04:48:40.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;no, it's almost impossible that you bent it just by pedaling. Exacerbate an existing bend, yes, but bend a straight ring, no.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bending it back into shape is possible, but be careful - bending metal back and forth weakens it. Do not pound it with a hammer - if you dent it you are also thinning it and making it longer. Which means it will be permanently bent. Use an adjustable wrench set to grip the chainring and try to bend around the attachment bolts, not just at the end of the wrench jaws.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A new chainring should be $20-$50, depending on what exactly you get. If your chainrings are not removable that means a new crankset but it also means your crankset is cheap, so it should be in that price range as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To replace it yourself is easy and should require a 5mm allen key and a thin coin. There will be four or five bolts on the outside of the chainring, and a matching slotted nut on the inside. You can buy a special tool to grip that nut, but I find a small coin is usually enough. Taking the chainring off before trying to straighten it is not a good idea as there's too much risk of dishing the chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T04:48:40.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-20T11:42:23.247" Score="4" ViewCount="1212" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any bike mounted bags for a camera, that could &lt;em&gt;safely&lt;/em&gt; hold my Sony NEX-5? I'd be happy enough if the camera fitted in with the 16mm pancake lens (as most of the shots are landscapes anyway). However, I was only able to find bags for cell phones or very slim compact cameras.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The camera dimensions without lens are per spec &lt;code&gt;111x59x38&lt;/code&gt; mm (WxHxD); my own measurements give cca &lt;code&gt;114x63x39&lt;/code&gt; mm. With the lens mounted the depth is about 62mm and the height just slightly bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://a.img-dpreview.com/reviews/SonyNex5Nex3/Images/NEX-5_with_16mm-001.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sony NEX-5 with 16mm pancake http://a.img-dpreview.com/reviews/SonyNex5Nex3/Images/NEX-5_with_16mm-001.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://a.img-dpreview.com/reviews/SonyNex5Nex3/Images/NEX-5_with_16mm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full size photo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a top photo to get the idea of the thickness: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.photoreview.com.au/reviews/advanced/NEX-5_16mm-F2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like a bag that I could mount on the handlebar, allowing a quick access without having to step off the bike for a quick shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or are there some solutions I could modify to my needs (more or less easily)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to your suggestions! Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1331" LastEditorUserId="1331" LastEditDate="2011-04-20T12:33:50.073" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T14:42:58.103" Title="Bike mounted camera bag" Tags="&lt;bags&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-09-29T19:11:24.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3483" CreationDate="2011-04-20T14:10:14.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the Mountain FeedBag would do the trick.  It's made for holding food but it's padded with a soft interior and should safely hold your camera.  It mounts in the corner between your stem and handlebar, you can easily access it while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epicrideresearch.com/product-information.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.epicrideresearch.com/product-information.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update as of May 2011&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Mountain Feed Bag&lt;/strong&gt; (designed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epicrideresearch.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Epic Ride Research&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) has been &lt;a href=&quot;http://xxcmag.com/?p=1431&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;acquired&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.revelatedesigns.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Revelate Designs LLC.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;(It seems that the founder of &lt;em&gt;ERR&lt;/em&gt; had &lt;a href=&quot;http://xxcmagblog.blogspot.com/2009/12/mountain-feedbag-update.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some health problems&lt;/a&gt;. Hopefully she's well again.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do your shopping through them, as the ERR site doesn't seem responsive and also had some trouble with international shipping, from what I've read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastEditorUserId="1331" LastEditDate="2011-05-01T22:06:21.020" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T22:06:21.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3483" CreationDate="2011-04-20T14:43:14.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ortlieb used to make two camera-specific bags that you could probably keep inside their handlebar bag, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ortlieb.com/en/Aqua-Zoom/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aqua Zoom&lt;/a&gt; and the Aqua Zoom Plus. These are now discontinued but you can still find them for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ortlieb.com/en/lenkertaschen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ortlieb Ultimate&lt;/a&gt; is a great handlebar bag that snaps on and off the handlebars, and also has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ortlieb.com/en/Ultimate2-6%20Camera%20Insert/?produkt=ultimate_camerainsert&amp;amp;parent=ultimate6_proe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;camera insert&lt;/a&gt;. I highly recommend the Ultimate, although the mounting is a little tricky to install. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2017-09-29T14:42:58.103" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T14:42:58.103" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3489" CreationDate="2011-04-20T15:43:31.233" Score="15" ViewCount="63998" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever since I got my bike (Surly Long Haul Trucker), it has been prone to shifting on its own.  This is almost guaranteed to happen when I stand up on the pedals, and happens regularly when sitting as well.  I have the feeling that this is a dangerous condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems from reading about the problem that it is due to the cable catching somewhere and creating a clutch effect.  (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/autoshift.html&quot;&gt;read about it here&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;There does not seem to be a way to adjust the friction of the shift lever.&#xA;I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;greasing the cable guide under the bottom bracket (no effect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;backing off the tension of the cable with the tension knob on the cable casing (no effect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone relate how they overcame this?  My next step is to further loosen the cable by adjusting the connection to the derailleur?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastEditorUserId="1116" LastEditDate="2011-04-25T19:13:43.203" LastActivityDate="2021-04-24T10:14:11.320" Title="Bike is shifting on its own" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3486" CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:28:32.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard this referred to as ghost shifting, and a proper setup on your drivetrain will almost always make it go away. Someone else may be able to speak to the exact circumstances that cause this, but adjusting cable tension (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3486/bike-is-shifting-on-its-own/3489#3489&quot;&gt;M. Werner's answer&lt;/a&gt; about this) and front and rear derailers, along with keeping your drivetrain clean and properly lubed, will go a long way towards eliminating this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(While this has worked well on my full-sized touring bike, I have another bike where I've been unable to completely eliminate ghost shifting.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T19:21:39.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3450" CreationDate="2011-04-20T17:31:10.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Set-torque wrenches are the nicest to use, but some (including mine) don't allow you to set torque when tightening a left-hand thread (left pedal, for example). Usually there's a corresponding right-hand thread to tighten at the same point in the assembly process so I do that first and just tighten the left-hand thread by feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As previous posters have mentioned, you probably won't find a single torque wrench capable of doing &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; specified torque but 20-210 Nm should be a decent 'big' wrench. You shouldn't run into any torques larger than 210 Nm but there is a lot of stuff that gets less than 20 Nm. I'd &lt;em&gt;guess&lt;/em&gt; that it should be fine for doing the cap nuts, but of course you will need to know the specified torque or there will be no purpose in using a torque wrench anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T17:31:10.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3486" CreationDate="2011-04-20T18:59:49.470" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neil is right, most all &amp;quot;auto shifting&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;ghost shifting&amp;quot; is the result of cable-tension problems.&#xA;If the cable is a bit loose, the derailleur will try to shift &amp;quot;up&amp;quot; to a smaller cog.  If too tight, it will try to catch the next larger cog.&#xA;Cables stretch, especially after a short period where the new cables stretch to the point they're stable.  after that, they should be good for a long time.&#xA;Try this.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Shift to the highest (smallest) cog and try to pull the derailleur cable away from the frame.  If there's a lot of slack, it's too loose.  If it feels very tight....&#xA;With either condition, make sure the shifter is in the highest position, and loosen the cable at the derailleur and then pull it snug.  Re-tighten the securing bolt and run it through the gears; it should be very close.&#xA;Ideally, the chain should jump smartly to each cog both up and down, and seat solidly on the cog.&#xA;If it's just a bit off, you can play with the barrel adjuster either at the shifter or at the derailleur.&#xA;Another cause of such problems is a bent rear derailleur &amp;quot;hanger&amp;quot;, the part that the derailleur attaches to.&#xA;Some of these are very soft aluminum and can be easily bent.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Make sure the derailleur cage is exactly parallel to the cogs and the hanger is not visibly bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T11:28:51.157" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T11:28:51.157" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3450" CreationDate="2011-04-20T19:24:57.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case it's not obvious, this is all on the USA side of the pond, not sure if you have access to the same tool suppliers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably want a torque screwdriver for the smaller items.  AFAIK, only available as a &quot;clicky-type&quot; (I don't like the clicky ones for anything other than small values, on large values I use beam type torque wrenches).  Snap-On makes good durable tools, especially important for anything clicky.  For example, torque screwdrivers = &lt;a href=&quot;http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&amp;amp;Group_ID=16437&amp;amp;store=snapon-store&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&amp;amp;Group_ID=16437&amp;amp;store=snapon-store&lt;/a&gt;  Beam types are more durable by nature, so I'll use cheaper brands (like Craftsman) for those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T19:24:57.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3486" CreationDate="2011-04-20T22:01:30.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your frame for hairline cracks. One of my bikes did shift to a larger sprocket when going uphill and back down immediately after the incline. The situation actually lasted for an astoundingly long time, several Mm. I only found out after the right hand chain stay finally gave way completely. Apart from that particular bike, I never experienced ghost shifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-04-20T22:13:05.907" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T22:13:05.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3493" CreationDate="2011-04-20T22:47:34.443" Score="2" ViewCount="1400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marinbikes.com/bicycles_2007/html/bikes/bike_specs/specs_larkspur.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2007 Marin Larkspur&lt;/a&gt; which I have been using as a commuter and recreation bicycle for 3.5 years. For the past year, I've been slowly learning to do my own repairs and upgrades as they have come up. I recently upgraded the chain and rear cassette (SRAM PG-830 and PC-830, respectively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it seems like my crankset is acting up. My middle chainring is quite worn and with the new chain especially it tends to skip very easily on hills. Based on Marin's specs, the bike should have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/index.php?screen=sh.detail&amp;amp;tnid=1446&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Suntour NCX-410&lt;/a&gt; crankset, and I've been told that I can't simply replace the chainrings on this part. I've done some reading (Todd Downs, Zinn books) about cranksets and bottom brackets while cross-referencing with Marin's specs. I think my bike has a sealed cartridge square taper bottom bracket, but I don't know anything about its size, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to this community for a recommendation on a good-quality but budget crankset with replaceable chainrings that will either work with my current bottom bracket (if it doesn't need to be replaced, how to tell?) or that would work with a modest bottom bracket purchase as well. I'm looking for the best value given that long-term cost of upkeep is a large factor in my upgrade/repair decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T23:55:10.960" Title="Replacement for Suntour NCX-410 crankset on commuter bike?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3492" CreationDate="2011-04-20T23:55:10.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless your bottom bracket is giving you issues, you shouldn't need to replace it.  Sealed cartridge bottom brackets have quite long lifespans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link you provided indicates that the current crank is designed for a 113mm long spindle (that's the LL113 bit), which is a fairly common size.  My personal favorite square-taper crankset with replacable rings is the Sugino XD-350, which is also designed for a 113mm spindle.  It's basically a drop-in replacement for the cranks you have now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T23:55:10.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-21T00:02:34.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using a Presta valve in my front schrader rim since I picked up tubes last, because they were out of schraders in my rim size. Haven't had any problems yet, knock on wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T00:02:34.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2011-04-21T04:47:30.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full finger gloves&lt;/strong&gt; -- if my chain comes off, I can just grab it, and not worry about getting my hands dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1336" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T04:47:30.797" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-21T04:47:30.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-21T08:10:14.693" Score="12" ViewCount="9669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me preface by saying that this may not be the right SE. I considered asking on the Physics SE, but I thought I might try here first. If it is wrong, I am not against it being migrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From basic principles of Physics, power is computed as Work/time. So consider a rider and bike system climbing a hill. The work done is the difference in potential from bottom to top, and obviously the time will be climb-time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Given the same rider, same bike weight, and same climb-time, does your gearing affect power? Also assume that the climb is efficient, no slipping tires, normal pedaling, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a physical perspective, I expect the answer is no. Same difference in potentials, same time, same power. However, from the rider perspective, I know that it sure feels like a lot more power is being used to climb with a harder ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that the answer is that the disparity comes from idealizing the system. If we consider the bike a closed system, we expect that all the energy put into the bike carries it up the hill, but this is not the case. Moreover I think the inefficiency of the human body will be relevant. However, I still cannot resolve the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="779" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-04-22T18:24:42.397" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T13:37:29.843" Title="Does gear ratio affect Power?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3496" CreationDate="2011-04-21T10:06:57.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's the difference between, what do you call it, 'isotonic' versus '&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isometric_exercise&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;isometric&lt;/a&gt;' work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I mean is that, for example, it takes a human a lot of effort (force, power, or work) to try to move an immovable object: to push against a wall or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In too high a gear you push and push and go nowhere (lots of power to go nowhere =&gt; 0% efficiency).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In too low a gear it's too easy: you spin against no resistance; your spin rate is limited to ~120 RPM or so, i.e. can't increase infinitely; therefore (low force and limited RPM) you're limited in the amount of power you put out (it's less than your theoretical maximum power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly there's an efficient '&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadence_%28cycling%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cadence&lt;/a&gt;' (perhaps 90 RPM) which you might want to use on all terrain (up, down, level), and the right thing (the right way to use your gears) is to continually adjust the gearing for the terrain in order to: a) maintain some constant, efficient cadence (e.g. 90 RPM); b) maintain a high enough force/power output at that cadence (e.g. if it seems too easy then switch to a higher gear, or if it's too difficult then switch to a lower gear, to maintain the cadence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T10:06:57.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3500" CreationDate="2011-04-21T11:05:35.910" Score="3" ViewCount="2155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an aluminium frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top tube has become slightly scratched or pitted (by something hard, presumably, I don't know what; maybe while it was parked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it need maintenance (e.g. does the paint job need fixing, will it corrode/weaken without), and if so what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T14:32:15.297" Title="Maintenance on an Aluminium frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3464" CreationDate="2011-04-21T12:15:51.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start out by riding at low gears (Easy ones) and build stamina and basic heart endurance.&#xA;Slowly raise the gears you are using (Slowly = months/years)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T12:15:51.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3498" CreationDate="2011-04-21T13:26:41.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminium frames do not corrode, no need to worry. My 2006 mountain bike frame has lots of scratches and defects, but it is still stiff enough. Aluminium frames have shorter life expetency than steel frames had, because aluminium has a tendency to tire, but it can be used without worries for 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really worried, put a sticker over it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T13:26:41.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3498" CreationDate="2011-04-21T14:32:15.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really deep dents or cracks are a cause for concern, but not little dimples and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the &quot;work hardening&quot; of aluminum is considerably less than industry types would make out....I've worked on numbers of aluminum frames that are at least 20 years old with no sign whatever of any structural problems.&#xA;Kind of depends what you're doing.  The average roadster isn't subject to much in the way of severe shocks; not so with a mountain bike being used to bounce off boulders and do 10-foot vertical drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T14:32:15.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3496" CreationDate="2011-04-21T15:20:38.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Given the same rider, same bike&#xA;  weight, and same climb-time, does your&#xA;  gearing affect power? Also assume that&#xA;  the climb is efficient, no slipping&#xA;  tires, normal pedaling, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, that depends on which &quot;power&quot; you are measuring :-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the power exercised by the bicycle as a whole is the same - if it's moving at the same speed, it's the same power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the power that your body exerts may well be different, for a variety of reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Muscles probably have a speed and force level where they are most efficient, so the chemical energy/power your body must exert to produce muscle movement will be different.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The various energy loss processes due to flexing, friction etc. will probably be different depending on gearing. E.g. in lower gears there will be faster chain movement (thus more friction), on the other hand chain tension will be lower, which probably reduces friction. Also, in lower gears flexing of the frame in response to chain forces will probably be lower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My impression is (though I don't have sources to back me up) that generally the human system is most power-efficient (i.e. best ration of pedal power to exertion) at cadences around 90-100 RPM, so that's what a cyclist should strive for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, the best cadence for &lt;em&gt;maximum&lt;/em&gt; power is apparently much lower, that's why pro cyclists will use high gears and low cadences for sprints - however this is much more tiring than higher cadences, so inefficient over long distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T15:20:38.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3464" CreationDate="2011-04-21T16:58:50.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Off-bike? You might try out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sport-fitness-advisor.com/plyometricexercises.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plyometric exercises&lt;/a&gt;. Plyometrics can help you improve your agility and power. In addition, you'd probably want to work on core strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that plyometrics would be helpful since BMX races are relatively short and rely a lot on agility and sprinting power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also mention that the track is too muddy for riding. So, you could do sprint &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cptips.com/intervl.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;intervals&lt;/a&gt; on pavement. Sprint intervals will improve your stamina and speed. An example would be something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride easy for 10 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sprint for 30 seconds and work your way up to 2 minute sprints&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride at a comfortable pace for 3 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat the sprint/comfortable pace cycle 4 to 6 times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finish up by riding at an easy pace for another 10 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do this 2 or at most 3 times a week but NOT on consecutive days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-04-21T17:53:00.317" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T17:53:00.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-21T17:11:34.923" Score="9" ViewCount="11272" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should one look for when purchasing spin shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will mainly be using these for indoor spin classes and occasionally on a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1390" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-04-22T20:58:33.700" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T23:52:30.573" Title="First time purchase of cycling shoes?" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3505" CreationDate="2011-04-21T18:10:15.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good fit.  I purchased some semi-cheap shoes that initially fit well, but after some serious riding, my big toe was rubbing against the inside way to much, causing lots of pain.  I went ahead and purchased a size bigger, which solved the problem.  Also, check on the return policy, as Mike's Bikes in SF does not accept the shoes after installing the cleats, even if you have not left the store!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T18:10:15.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3505" CreationDate="2011-04-21T18:39:59.313" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would probably want a shoe that's designed for an SPD clipless pedal. In my experience most gym spinning bikes use an SPD type pedal. As long as your road bike has SPD pedals, you can use the same shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest going to a bike shop or outdoor store with a good selection of cycling shoes and try on a few pairs so that you get a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;good fit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Good fit is subjective, so that's why I say to try on a few. Mountain bike shoes are probably the best option. They look like sneakers and have SPD mounts. Also, the SPD cleats are recessed in the tread of mountain bike shoes, which makes walking more comfortable. In addition they work just fine for occasional road bike riding...that is as long as you have SPD pedals on your road bike... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I think about it. It's possible that your gym spinning bikes are equipped with &quot;Look&quot; type pedals. If that's the case, you'll need a road shoe with cleats that match your road bike. I travel a lot and take spinning classes when I travel; and very rarely run into spin class bikes with Look pedals. So, odds are, you want an SPD compatible shoe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the typical spin class bike, you can adjust...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The seat height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The seat fore/aft position in relation to the handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The handlebar height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, but not always, the spin bike will feature a double-sided pedal. Typically, one side is &quot;strap in&quot; and the other is quite often SPD cleated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when you get to your spin class, make sure that the bike is adjusted correctly. For me, I try to duplicate my road bike as closely as possible. Otherwise, and especially if you're new to it, the spin class leader should make sure that you have made the correct adjustments on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how to choose the shoes? Complicated? Not really. With the OP criteria, just get a pair of good-fitting mountain bike (SPD) shoes, and you'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-04-22T21:51:06.497" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T21:51:06.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-21T19:56:52.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, there's ways to do it.  I'd just recommend not doing it.  I have more pressure loss problems with my Presta bikes than I do the Schrader equipped ones.  Strikes me as a downgrade rather than an upgrade.  The only advantage I find to the Presta is the size, which will let you run narrower wheels/tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T19:56:52.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3496" CreationDate="2011-04-22T02:57:03.933" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you mean efficiency rather than power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion the main trade-off is between increased biomechanical losses at higher rpm (basically muscle friction) and decreased blood flow with higher forces at lower rpm. The balance depends both on the rider and the duration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/45-v13n2-1998.pdf&quot;&gt;IHPVA Journal of Human Power, Issue 45&lt;/a&gt;(pdf, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/hparchive.htm&quot;&gt;index here&lt;/a&gt;) is a paper called Maximum Human Power where they talk about Tyler Hamilton winning the Mt Washinton climb in 51 minutes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;he rode much of the climb, however, in the 23-tooth cog, and made several surges in the 21.&quot; If he had 700- mm wheels, as seems likely, his average cadence would have been 63 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole article is worth reading, and it might pay to browse the index for similar papers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flip side is that top sprinters often go well over 150rpm in the final sprint. At that point they're trading biomechanical efficiency for peak power. I used to peak at over 900W for 10 seconds (&gt;8W/kg) at around 130rpm, but my hour performance of around 350W used a cadence of about 80-90rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real answer is specific to you. It will depend on your body shape, muscle type, fitness and more transient factors. It's also a question best answered by experiment, and should be part of your tr4aining schedule if you're competing. If not, I suggest finding a climb you ride regularly and keep a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=cycling%20training%20diary&quot;&gt;training diary&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has also been much discussion over the hydration for long climbs. Is it better to hydrate and start heavier, or run slightly dehydrated so you weigh less? IIRC the conclusion was that hydration was better, but I can't find the reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T02:57:03.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2011-04-22T03:10:39.590" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oddly the well publicised bike counts down here don't seem to be quite so free with their results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.geek.nz/mozbike/bike-count-august-2001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a bit of counting&lt;/a&gt; back in 2001 and got about 20% female cyclists. Fewer on major roads, more on bike paths. 1300 cyclists over 3 months in a perimeter count (because the official stats only counted 5 major entry points). Interestingly despite the compulsory helmet law only 74% wore helmets (I didn't count &quot;helmet on handlebars&quot; as wearing a helmet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Melbourne there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Moreinfoandservices/Bicycles/StrategicDirectionsForCycling/CyclingDataAndStatistics.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stats here&lt;/a&gt;, the &quot;cycling to work&quot; and &quot;cycling in Melbourne&quot; pdfs. First graph shows approx 25% female, and in the outer suburbs mostly under 20 years old, with a broader peak in the inner suburbs (interestingly, fewer school age kids than the suburbs)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RebJl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cyclist&amp;#39;s Age and Gender, Melbourne 1997-1999&quot;&gt;&#xA;and a second chart showing that as cycling percentage goes up so does the proportion of female cyclists - women are more likely to ride if a lot of men do.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46PTV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cycling Levels among males and females&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-04-22T08:44:30.383" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T08:44:30.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3111" CreationDate="2011-04-22T11:18:58.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It worked with a 24 mm socket on mine. But remember it is left hand thread. So turn the wrench clockwise to loosen! I had an annoying tick with each rotation when this pedal was on top. I noticed a fatigue crack in the titanium casing, but also there was 1 mm play between the black plastic and the vertical plate in locked position, and this could also be the cause of the noise. My Brompton is 4 years old and was used for only 1250 km with great care, so I would consider this failure of the pedal a construction fault!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1394" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T11:18:58.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-22T11:55:20.793" Score="2" ViewCount="3838" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The situation&lt;/strong&gt; My Shimano Nexus Inter-3 internal gear hub is stuck in second gear (it's a 3-gear hub). When I take the external cable housing apart, I can move the pin that goes inside to change gears, but the gear does not actually change anymore. Also, when the pin is fully emerged from the housing, there's still some space left between it and the lever that transfers force from the cable. The pin is still springloaded though, and seems pushed out into its extreme position. Still I suspect that it may not be coming out fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;What kind of problem could cause these symptoms, and how would I go about fixing it? Is it even possible to open up the internal gear hub to fix this, or would I perhaps be better off not bothering and just installing a new one (which would mean reattaching all spokes)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100% sure, but it seems that this is the hub I'm talking about: Shimano Nexus Inter-3 EV-SG-3C41-2330 -INTER-3 (&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; broken link removed - this Shimano technical &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/SG/EV-SG-3C41-2330B_v1_m56577569830704663.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt; is a close match).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1395" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T01:47:11.010" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:47:11.010" Title="Shimano Nexus Inter-3 internal gear hub stuck in second gear?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3505" CreationDate="2011-04-22T15:27:45.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling shoes can clip (attach) to the bicycle pedals.&#xA;I think there's a 'cleat' on the shoe and a corresponding socket on the pedal.&#xA;There are several types/shapes of shoe/cleat, which need to match the type of pedal.&#xA;So part of the answer is, &quot;buy the type of shoe which matches the type of pedal&quot;.&#xA;A common type of shoe/pedal is called &quot;SPD&quot;.&#xA;One advantage of this type (compared with some other types) is that it's possible/easy to walk in them, because the cleat is recessed into the sole of the shoe (some other types of shoe with an exposed cleat are apparently not easy to walk on; for this reason SPD is recommended to e.g. 'commuters' or 'mountain bikers' who may want to walk a little in their shoes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you buy shoes for your own bike you can buy the corresponding pedals (e.g. SPD). For a spinning class you may want to find out what type of pedals they have already and get corresponding shoes (assuming you can't change their pedals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was buying mine, I was in the shoe section at the front of the bike store looking at the shoes on display. I told the salesperson that I'd heard it's good to get a shoe with a stiff sole (which distributes the force over the whole of the bottom of the shoe), at which he went and fetched a pair/style from their store room which wasn't on display, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.ca/#q=shimano+m087&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano M087&lt;/a&gt;, and recommended it. The first one I tried that's theoretically my size seemed just a little tight. I'd rather have a shoe too big and tighten it than a shoe too small which I can't loosen, so I asked to try the same but the next size up: and I've been happy with that. There's room for my toes, and it's easy to adjust the tightness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleats are adjustable but I think have no 'float'. I did actually develop knee pain within the first 3 weeks (cycling 2 1/2 hours per day), due to a combination of several factors that wouldn't necessarily apply to you, for which I adjusted my seat height and the position of the cleats in the sole (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/295/causes-of-knee-pain&quot;&gt;and other things&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to use them on a road bike too, advice people gave me was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice away from traffic until you've fallen a few times (because everyone falls, until unclipping has become automatic / second nature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice in winter so that you're wearing a coat to fall on when you do fall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my bike I chose pedals which clip on one side but not the other: so I can use them with ordinary shoes as well (not that I do) and I can ride with bike shoes but without clipping in (which I find very occasionally useful e.g. when the road surface is bad and I'd like to be able to put my foot down extra-easily in an emergency). I'm not strongly recommending a half-pedal of that sort, but they are available if you might find that useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:19:26.173" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T15:27:45.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3519" CreationDate="2011-04-22T18:51:24.730" Score="5" ViewCount="1124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading a discussion (&lt;a href=&quot;http://ask.metafilter.com/145158/Cycling-mashing-versus-spinning&quot;&gt;Cycling: mashing versus spinning&lt;/a&gt;) in which someone commented ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the big picture, winning against&#xA;  other age-groupers is pretty&#xA;  unremarkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... which implies that cycling performance is affected by one's age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now ageing might be, to quote the FAQ, &quot;an actual problem that you face&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that ageing is in fact some kind of 'problem', can you tell me what's useful to know about it? Especially as it relates to cycling (ability, performance, expectations, and/or training)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example a little bit of googling found &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/32841213/ns/health-fitness/&quot;&gt;Key found to muscle loss as we age&lt;/a&gt;&quot; which suggests that one cause of muscle wasting in older people is decreased blood flow to the legs (which cycling presumably helps to counter-act somewhat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be a bit more specific:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm soon to be 50 (but please feel free to talk about other ages if you know about it and think it would interest)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd looking for any specifically age-related information (e.g. I think all articles will say that in general exercise is good for you at any/every age: which is the opposite of being an age-specific statement, or statements about specific ages or ageing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm looking for bicycle-specific information (so perhaps not especially for statements relating to flexibility, memory and other mental abilities, impact-resilience, and/or other such ageing-related phenomena that aren't especially relevant to bicycling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd prefer actionable or prescriptive information&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T00:31:11.423" Title="Age-specific information for cyclists" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3516" CreationDate="2011-04-22T19:24:36.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's anything &quot;useful&quot; to know about aging in the context you outline, although it could potentially be interesting for you to compare your own fitness and performance over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common trend: Athletic performance declines with age.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Individual trend: My performance has increased with age since I pay more attention to my fitness, diet, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the &quot;problem&quot; as defined might be the general trend... which should not be correlated with individual performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1031" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T19:24:36.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3513" CreationDate="2011-04-22T19:47:03.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not clear if you've already bypassed the shift mechanism and attempted to shift directly using the shift pin - at least eliminate any possibility that the shifter is the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're already considering purchasing a new hub, there's little harm in pulling the old one apart to see if it can be repaired.  For some reason the Shimano TechDocs for that hub is missing, but I was able to find a mirror on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://vancruisers.ca/tech/manuals/shimano-service-manuals/Shimano-SG-3C41.pdf/view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vancruisers.ca&lt;/a&gt; site.  Looking at that it's not obvious what might be broken and failing to engage inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are some fiddly bits inside these hubs, you'll want to lay out a nice big sheet of butcher paper or a towel to work on, and take pictures as you pull pieces out so you can remember how they go back together.  Keep an eye out for any bits of metal shavings or chips of metal, that's usually indicative that you'll find a broken or missing piece inside somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd particularly like to avoid rebuilding the wheel, I've had success also just swapping the internals on some internal hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T19:47:03.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3516" CreationDate="2011-04-22T23:15:24.343" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm over 50, starting my 30th year of cycling, and raced for 10 years when much younger. I've been tracking my performance over the 30 years with detailed training diaries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main age related issue I've found is that it takes longer for me to recover from hard efforts. The consequence is that I cannot train as hard overall because I cannot handle as many hard days of training. I also find that I need to warm up longer before hard efforts, which reduces the time I can spend working hard in any given training session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I haven't found much decrease in performance given the reduced amount of hard training. In other words, if I compare my current performance to earlier times when I was training at the same level of effort, my performance is only a little worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to find out at what age I will start seeing a bigger decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I deal with the reduced number of hard sessions by pushing myself extremely hard during those sessions and taking it much easier on other rides. My goal is that my hard days are very hard and my easy days are very easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1396" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T23:15:24.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="891" CreationDate="2011-04-23T00:24:38.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an anecdote: when I'm overtaken on a flat bike path, it's usually by a man who's wearing bike clothes and who's spinning faster than I am, and it happens when I'm going slowly because my legs are feeling tired. And if I downshift then to a faster cadence then I can suddenly go faster, and do a better job at keeping up with the person who just overtook me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-04-23T00:24:38.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3516" CreationDate="2011-04-23T00:41:36.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 65, with the problems one might expect; had surgery on a knee last year, aches and pains in shoulder joints, had a little bout of angina a couple of years ago and got a stent...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still riding though.  By all accounts, given that cycling is a superb aerobic (or &quot;cardio&quot; as they say now) exercise, it might behoove the older rider to toss in some resistance training as well to compensate for muscle-mass loss.&#xA;I've been doing non-impactive upper-body work recently (using a device called a &quot;Bulgarian training bag&quot;) and it seems to be helping my wonky shoulders and general upper-body strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-23T00:41:36.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3516" CreationDate="2011-04-23T03:03:43.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think as you get older the &quot;use it or lose&quot; it problem with muscle mass and bone density becomes more obvious. The rate of loss of both of those increases as you age. My solution here is just to keep stretching, keep riding and do more tai chi and yoga rather than aikido &amp;amp; judo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A secondary effect is that recovery time increases, as does reaction time. So you're both more likely to crash, and you take longer to recover when you do. Perhaps a shift from criterium to velodrome racing is a good idea once you hit 50 (not that any of my friends seem to be doing that, but they should). At the extreme, a lot of geriatric old farts switch to recumbent trikes once they hit 60 or 70, partly because they struggle to get on and off an upright, but also because the cost of falling off one is so high - break a hip at 70 and your life expectancy drops dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the positive side, if you're a competitive cyclist your increased experience and tactical judgement help to offset your lower peak power output until well into your 40s. There have also been quite a few long distance records set by older cyclists, including some hour records. Older in this case meaning &quot;over 30&quot;, although &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006/07/recumbent_bicyc.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fast Freddy Markham&lt;/a&gt; set the hour record when he was 50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-23T03:03:43.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3526" CreationDate="2011-04-23T03:09:47.857" Score="0" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a local BMX track in a suburb of the town I live in. I had called there before asking about scheduling and rules and whatnot. I found out, that (at least on that track), they had a special category for bikes (such as full-size MTBs) with wheels bigger than 20&quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is this just this track doing it, or is there officially another class of racing for bikes with big wheels?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1313" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T19:27:34.033" Title="BMX racing with a full size MTB?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3221" CreationDate="2011-04-23T06:28:28.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't have enough points to comment or upvote but I wanted to +1 to wdypdx22's suggestion on hamstring flexibility.  My sore knees pretty much went away with improvements in hamstring (and hip) flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2011-04-23T06:28:28.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3523" CreationDate="2011-04-23T14:10:46.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are probably doing 4X or four-cross racing.  I believe they run 4 bikes per stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_cross&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wiki Description&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-04-23T14:10:46.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3523" CreationDate="2011-04-23T14:40:01.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a large number of tracks that have a Clydesdale class, which typically runs on 24&quot; or 26&quot; wheeled bikes. Most pump tracks aren't designed wit a 26&quot; wheel in mind. It still is a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-04-23T14:40:01.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3538" CreationDate="2011-04-23T18:27:59.477" Score="3" ViewCount="3831" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning I could not find my training shoes. So, I used my sandals. I found that the sandals not only kept my feet cool but there was no pedal slippage as I had expected. The more I think about it, having no laces is probably another advantage. So, which footwear is best for summer cycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1361" LastEditorUserId="1361" LastEditDate="2011-04-23T19:26:16.743" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T15:38:03.493" Title="Which footwear is the safest for summer cycling?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3496" CreationDate="2011-04-23T19:12:15.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, gear and gain ratios do not affect power. While you are correct in assuming that it would feel different to the rider, if the other three variables are equal, then the power rate will be the same. In this case, in an &quot;easier&quot; gear ratio, the cadence would require a significant increase to maintain the same climb time (speed) and if the rider is identical, then the work rate is identical. The increase in speed of pedaling makes up the difference in wattage expenditure compared to the &quot;harder&quot; gear at a lower cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-01-26T05:33:16.903" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T05:33:16.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3527" CreationDate="2011-04-23T19:26:18.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandals are fine for casual pedaling, but are unsafe and innapropriate for more energetic efforts. Good rule of thumb? If you're going for coffee, and not on a hard core road bike (or in a group of friends that make everything a race) then sandals are probably ok. Less than 5 miles an hour, probably ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bike? Racer buddies? Off road, even a little bit? Wear the trainers. And BTW good, ventilated, light weight trainers are just as comfy as sandals, but are a lot safer. Sandals at low speed may have good traction on a pedal, but sandals at higher speeds are unlikely to maintain good traction between both the pedals and the sandals, and between the sandals and your feet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even better, consider a pair of cycling shoes, with pedals made to fit. They'll have the best traction, and really high quality shoes are very comfortable and well ventilated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally sandals aren't good riding shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-04-23T19:26:18.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3393" CreationDate="2011-04-23T19:40:08.447" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, using a &quot;trainer&quot; skewer on the road has no negative impact on your bike or safety. The skewer which comes with a trainer is mecahnically and functionally identical to the one that came on your bike, with the exception of the shape of the &quot;heads&quot; on the trainer skewer. It is actually identical to one of the original skewer designs. The reason that one comes with the trainer is because most bike manufacturers have changed the shape of the skewer &quot;heads&quot; that come on the bike to be more aesthetically pleasing. With the side effect that the skewer that comes on your bike is unlikely to fit securely into the clamp mount on your trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-04-23T19:40:08.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2011-04-24T01:20:50.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just leave a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fs5rp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;milk crate&lt;/a&gt; attached to the top of my rear rack via bungee cords. Anything too big to fit all the way inside (such as a camera tripod) can be secured with more bungee cords over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1399" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T01:20:50.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3537" CreationDate="2011-04-24T05:59:08.023" Score="19" ViewCount="33378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to try a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rideforheart.ca&quot;&gt;50 km ride&lt;/a&gt; for the first time, to be completed continuously one morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most I've even done before is an 18 km (70 minute) each way commute (out in the morning and back in the evening).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I commute I eat (breakfast, and late afternoon snack) before I ride, but I eat and drink nothing during the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that the difference between that and a 50 km ride is that, on the multi-hour ride, I ought to eat or drink something on/during the ride to replenish? How much should I eat and drink then, and when? Should I expect to take rest stops, and/or to go more slowly on average?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wary because I think I've read that glycogen depletes at around the 2-hour mark, whereas my longest continuous ride to date has has been only 80 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-26T02:13:43.003" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T23:38:59.670" Title="How much to eat and drink during a 50km ride?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="14" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3536" CreationDate="2011-04-24T08:09:51.093" Score="16" ViewCount="4395" Body="&lt;p&gt;These days cheap bikes often seem to come with the frame sawn in half below the saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the manufacturer gain from this design, and why is it associated mostly with cheap, low quality bikes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What disadvantages are there to the bike rider? I assume that it's not a great feature since quality bike makers don't seem to opt for this design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NFyrU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1033" LastEditorUserId="1033" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T23:38:48.430" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T23:38:48.430" Title="Why is it common for cheap bikes to have the frame sawn in half below the saddle?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9451" CreationDate="2011-04-24T08:43:10.953" Score="7" ViewCount="3317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got Shimano hydraulic disc brakes and ever since I've had the bike (from new) the front brake has never worked properly. It used to squeak really loudly and perform badly but I assumed they just needed bedding in (taking the bike back to where I got it from wasn't really an option as I bought it from a shop far from where I live (long story)). After riding around 100 miles on the bike with no improvement I decided to get the pads replaced. The squeaking isn't as loud, but it still does squeak and the performance is still rubbish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read about cleaning the pads and discs with alcohol which I've now done and that hasn't made any difference either so I'm all out of ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really annoying as I used to have cable V-brakes which worked brilliantly! My friend is also having trouble with his disc brakes and I'm starting to think disc brakes are more trouble that they're worth?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1400" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-27T03:22:54.977" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T11:07:04.630" Title="Disk brake has never worked properly from new, pads replaced - still rubbish!" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2011-04-24T10:00:54.327" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The seat tube is split because it has rear suspension - the rear of the bike rotates around a pivot located just in front of the bottom bracket.  Several early full-suspension bikes used a similar design for the rear pivot; this design was then knocked off by the lower-end manufacturers looking to cash in on the popularity of mountain bikes.  It's extremely simple and gives the bike the expensive &quot;full-suspension&quot; look.  Unfortunately it mostly just adds weight, pedal bob, and complexity to an already heavy turd of a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern full-suspension bikes use more expensive rear linkages and advanced suspension designs, so this older design has almost entirely been relegated to department store bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T10:00:54.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2011-04-24T10:10:38.813" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;50km isn't that enormous of a distance - and especially for someone who does 18km twice a day.  It sounds like your current pace would have you completing that in about three hours.  I'd bring a snack or two if you're worried about being peckish, but unless you're going all-out for a personal record or you skip breakfast you should have no issues.  Just keep turning the pedals, make sure you drink some water, and feel free to take a 5-minute stretch and snack break if you're feeling tired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T10:10:38.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3527" CreationDate="2011-04-24T10:20:21.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When summer comes around, I love riding around in my Chaco sandals.  When using any non-cycling shoe on a bike, you'll want to have proper pedals with a good grippy platform, I particularly like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/grip-king-pedal/14-053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MKS Grip King&lt;/a&gt;.  The biggest danger is probably getting the tops of your feet sunburned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend flip-flops or non-sport sandals, but sport sandals are perfectly fine on a bike.  If you want to get seriously dorky, you can even get SPD-cleat ready sandals from Shimano or Keen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T10:20:21.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2011-04-24T11:22:04.623" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the cheapest, easiest way to make a rear suspended bike. It's a combination of a simple, almost two dimensional frame which is easy to design and manufacture, and the open layout making it easy to assemble. On a cheap bike those two factors outweigh anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem with the design is torsional rigidity along the frame. Because there are no seat stays the rear wheel twists easily and so does the seat. To compensate for that the &quot;ẗop tube&quot; (that holds the seat) and &quot;chain stays&quot; (that hold the rear wheel) are made heavier than they are on an unsuspended bike. The design pictured attempts to minimise this by using triangulated stays for the wheel, but all the torsion still goes onto the pivot resulting in poor performance. Most noticeable when standing up to pedal hard, especially if you tilt the bike (think BMX racing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that in the picture above all the main frame tubes are oversize, and most have non-circular profiles. This is an attempt to maximise strength in the directions it's most needed without compromising the budget by using harder steel (which is more expensive, but more importantly requires much more expensive tooling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worse, some manufacturers use the same design for a rigid rear end, giving you all the disadvantages of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T11:22:04.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3535" CreationDate="2011-04-24T11:29:41.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest first checking that everything is assembled correctly. Make sure the rotor is on the wheel the right way round (it should have arrows in the centre). Download the instructions from Shimano's website and check that everything is in the right place and done up tight (but not too tight!) Or tell us what model you have and ideally post a picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look down at the pads and make sure that they clear the rotor on both sides and that they're parallel to the rotor. Squeeze the lever and make sure they squeeze fairly evenly and with no obvious stiction. If the pads aren't parallelreset the capiler - &lt;a href=&quot;http://mountain.bike198.com/how-to-install-and-adjust-disc-brakes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these directions&lt;/a&gt; look fairly useful to me and there's a video (that I haven't watched). Basically, loosen the mounting bolts, squeeze the brake lever, tighten the bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T11:29:41.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2011-04-24T13:55:30.933" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This link &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wirewd.com/bike/blog/eating_long_distance_short/&quot;&gt;Quick note: Eating is the key to long distance biking&lt;/a&gt;&quot; says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you don't eat, you have an hour, maybe two, of energy stored up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately it's prescriptive too, saying,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And what should these calories be?&#xA;  Well, something easy on your stomach&#xA;  and fairly light. There are special&#xA;  sporting-related products that are&#xA;  generally right around 100 calories&#xA;  and super-easy on your stomach, but&#xA;  you don't have to go overboard. A&#xA;  piece of fruit or some candy or even a&#xA;  can of soda will work just fine. Just&#xA;  try to keep it around 100-200 calories&#xA;  maximum per hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... so that answers that: only about 100-200 calories an hour. Apparently you don't try to to keep up with the approx 500 calorie/hour rate at which you're expending calories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what, &lt;a href=&quot;http://readytoride.biz/?p=238&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; recommends bike-specific stuff based on maltodextrin, brand name &quot;Hammer&quot;, and says that the body can't absorb more than 200-300 calories an hour - but that's for a multi-day ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas &lt;a href=&quot;http://kentsbike.blogspot.com/2009/10/what-long-distance-cyclists-really-eat.html&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; recommends:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Junk food (donuts, gummi bears, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chocolate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nuts (or peanuts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Olives (salty, light-weight, and high-calorie: though I'll guess slow to absorb)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Subway sandwich but without any hot/spicy components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ice tea (sugar and caffeine)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fruit (bananas, banana chips, fig bars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cereal bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.ca/#q=cycling+how+much+drink&quot;&gt;how much to drink?&lt;/a&gt;&quot; question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suite101.com/content/more-on-hydration-for-cycling-a16979&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; says, that 'one litre per hour' is on the high side, that that's for endurance not recreational rides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.articledashboard.com/Article/How-Much-Water-You-Should-Drink-When-Cycling-for-Optimum-Performance/1735109&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; says 16 oz / 45 minutes (~ 0.63 l/h).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/9384-stay-hydrated-cycling/&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; says 28 oz / hour (~ 0.83 l/h).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maskedflowerimages.com/articles/bicycling.html&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; says a couple of big swallows every 15 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of those articles also says that you thirst after dehydrating 1% and suffer when you drop 5%. I weigh 77 kg so I suppose I'm 46 litres of water, so 1% is about half a litre. If I don't drink when riding then (if I ought to be replenishing up to a litre an hour) that predicts that I'd be thirsty (1%) within 1/2 hour or an hour, and suffering (5%) within 2 1/2 to 4 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usatf.org/groups/Coaches/library/2007/hydration/ProperHydrationForDistanceRunning.pdf&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; says that &quot;Sports drinks have low-sodium levels in order to be appetizing to the general public&quot; and suggests 500 to 700 mg of sodium per litre. Salt is 40% sodium, so that's 1.2 to 1.8 grams of salt per litre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.2 g salt is about 1/2 cc or 1/5 tsp (per litre of water), which is less than I'd imagined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1331" LastEditDate="2011-04-24T16:55:32.853" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T16:55:32.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3527" CreationDate="2011-04-24T14:45:40.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happen to think sandals are a bad idea.  They provide next to no toe protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know people who have ridden in the winter with sandals and love them.  (Goretex socks as outers for water protection and whatever you need inside for the temperature).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the problem is there is so much crap on the road, you never know when something will pop up hit your feet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was funny as after reading about the guy with the Goretex socks, I tried my ride to work in sandals, and actually hit a bit of wrapping (The stuff the tie up stacks of wood or things on pallets with) that was on the ground, and whacked my toes pretty badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more I looked around as I rode on the street I realized there is way too much crap on the road for sandals to be a good idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As zenbike said, to hop out for coffee, sure.  But if you are going to do any road riding, it seems ill advised to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T14:45:40.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2011-04-24T14:51:13.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been a few &quot;serious&quot; bikes made with this design; Trek produced a few years ago.&#xA;However, it proved to be a poor design as it puts the pivots in the wrong places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took one of those cheesy Y-frames and used it as the basis for my home-built recumbent...It actually worked pretty well for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T14:51:13.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="197" CreationDate="2011-04-24T15:33:58.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed the surly nice rack. had to spread it open slightly for the front offset fork but other than that it bolts on easily with the surly mount kit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1402" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T15:33:58.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-25T16:47:58.483" Score="3" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have recently bought a tandem and the rear wheel skids out when riding. Any idea why this happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comment below: When we are riding along in a straight line and there is an uneven surface it does this a lot. The heavier rider is on the front of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1406" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T05:16:22.753" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T15:59:04.450" Title="Why is the rear wheel of my tandem bike skidding?" Tags="&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3527" CreationDate="2011-04-25T18:41:55.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute by bicycle in the summer in Sacramento, CA... there are days when it is so hot in the afternoon that I avoid brushing against the steel frame of my bike because it burns the skin to touch!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree that open-toed sandals are not such a great idea for cycling--even when overheating is an issue--but I also believe that heat stress is a real problem that must be dealt with. Cooling my feet off isn't my highest priority, but it is certainly in the mix.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution that I have found are close-toed sandals.  In fact, I have found a pair of closed-toed sandals that accept cleats for clipless pedals.  I roll with SPD's in my sandals in the summer.  I'm riding in Keen Commuter sandals in the summer:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/hyo1M5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/hyo1M5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My one issue with them is that I need to cinch them very tight in order to not feel them moving on my foot when I'm lifting up on the pedal.  Otherwise, no complaints!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T18:41:55.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3545" CreationDate="2011-04-25T18:51:06.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, more detail about your riding scenario will help.  Are you trying to ride it alone at times?  Tandem wheelbase length could be an issue if you are going solo.  Also, if you and the other rider are not leaning into turns correctly with each other, then this can be causing skid/balance issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing - the heavier rider may need to be in front.  The front wheel is all your stopping power and so their weight will stablize the front end.  If there is a great deal of weight difference in the riders, then you will have to experiment which position allows most comfort and handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T18:51:06.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2011-04-25T20:50:36.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the answers provided thus far....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt; - &lt;em&gt;Moz suggests:&lt;/em&gt;_ &lt;em&gt;Cycling knicks, water bottles, and a puncture kit&lt;/em&gt;. Excellent advice. And, I assume that Moz means padded cycling shorts. The puncture kit is also good advice since you might get a flat between stops. Water bottles? Seriously, who can cycle without water bottles?&#xA;  - &lt;em&gt;The test ride:&lt;/em&gt; Equip yourself with some calories and at least 2 water bottles and the puncture kit. The puncture kit is good since no one will be out there to help you on the test ride.&#xA;  - &lt;em&gt;The ride.&lt;/em&gt; You have no worries. &lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And @Chris -- You're already building up endurance miles. You'll be fine. You'll sail through the 50K with no problems. The 50K Ride is not &quot;long distance&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, the real answer depends upon your current cycling fitness level. So, &lt;em&gt;the real answer&lt;/em&gt; will be quite different between a beginner, vs, a fitness-cyclist coming out of the winter doldrum, vs, a racer; and etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ride you intend to do in June is a &lt;em&gt;supported&lt;/em&gt; 50k ride. I looked at your ride map and there are 4 rest stops along the way. You really don't need to worry much about hydration or consuming enough calories. Take advantage of the rest stops and you'll be totally fine. You already have a good start with your daily commute. My guess is that you'll do much better than you think, since you won't need to worry about stop-lights, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T20:07:53.203" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T20:07:53.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3641" CreationDate="2011-04-26T00:36:27.197" Score="4" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently went through a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCGlobalPages.jsp?pageName=BGFIT&amp;amp;menuItemId=11504&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized BG Pro-Fit&lt;/a&gt; (was about $200), and have to say that I'm super happy with the results and experience.  The fitter was telling me about some others out there that cost a lot more and take 4+ hours and are more technical, or use more hardware, ie: lasers, though, I could not find them online with some simple searches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any good experiences with others, or know of any others, and If you've done the Specialized BG Fit, did you like your results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/bc/microsite/bgfit/index.html#/Experience&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BG Fit&lt;/a&gt; site goes in more detail&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastEditorUserId="499" LastEditDate="2011-04-26T02:17:27.353" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T14:54:13.340" Title="Bike fitting experiences" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3535" CreationDate="2011-04-26T14:18:59.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you describe &quot;not working properly&quot;? Is it braking power, rotor rub, noise, lever throw,etc?&#xA;Also, what brake model? Moz's idea for caliper alignment works well on most Avid brakes but it relies on a floating mount system that your setup ay not have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@David&#xA;The presence of &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; oil on the pads or rotor is a bad sign (and also likely explains why the brakes no longer squeal as much) - what's the lever-resistance like? Can you pull the lever all the way into the bar? If they've never worked properly I'd suspect they need to be bled, or you could have a very small leak-you don't see any fluid then around the drums that press the pads into the rotor. You can service this yourself but it's finicky and requires a few specialized tools. It's usually the same price to have your bike shop bleed the brake as buying the manufacturers bleed kit, so I don't bother doing them myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1408" LastEditorUserId="1408" LastEditDate="2011-05-27T02:17:44.713" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T02:17:44.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3458" CreationDate="2011-04-26T14:34:25.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same shock on my xc bike and I find the pro pedal very plush even on firm. I'm a big guy (~220 lbs) and run the shock somewhere around 150 psi so your scenario may be different. I always climb with the rear locked, ride flat terrain with the pro pedal on @ the firmest setting (3) and flip to full travel for any downhill. You will always have the most efficient climbing with the shock locked out; you rarely need rear suspension on the uphills anyways...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1408" LastActivityDate="2011-04-26T14:34:25.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3549" CreationDate="2011-04-26T15:19:22.293" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there's one thing I've learned about bike fit over the years, it's that it's rather controversial.   I was strictly &quot;old school&quot; since I started cycling seriously in the mid 70s.&#xA;Standard measurements for seat height, saddle fore-and-aft adjustment, knee-over-pedal adjustment, reach, etc.   No high-tech goodies.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You used these &quot;ball-park&quot; measurements to get close and then let your body do the talking....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much more sophisticated now, of course, but one has to wonder about the degree to which all the techie bells-and-whistles are just to justify the price.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bottom line is simple.... If you're happy with the results, and you can ride efficiently without pain... You're golden.&#xA;Every day I see cyclists who appear massively uncomfortable on their rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-26T15:19:22.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3555" CreationDate="2011-04-27T09:18:59.780" Score="3" ViewCount="2090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 8 speed Shimano hub-geared bike. When I place the chain tug by geneticbikes.com, the black tud does not fit into the dropout. According to the thread, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-662773.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, I can use one chain tug to the right without serrated anti-rotational washer and one anti-rotational washer to the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4he1X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;The tud does not fit the dropout. I cannot understand where it should be in some hole but cannot understand the mechanics. What is the tud for?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CyzX3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;You can see there the anti-rotational washer, being not round while the chain tug is round.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D5d6y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unable to find the right position to the chain tug, apparently the black tud behind in the way. I tested and the tug is of the right size to fit the line but it is very hard to find the right position without tilting the chain tug, not found any position yet (not sure whether I need to round the tud to fit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o49Qb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Update]&lt;/strong&gt; After filing, how to protect the frame from the tug's screws? Tug on the right (chain's side) and the anti-rotational washer on the other side (recommend on the link below, not sure whether it is enough to stop the hub rolling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xbyZe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see how the screws make bad to the frame, how to protect it?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kc3dF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and here is the picture on the right side, the anti-rotational washer is on the left side. The right side has no anti-rotational washer -- a problem? The fender screw is on the way to put the tug on a very good position, could the fender be placed on the same screw as the rack?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p7kpJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further information&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;same question but with incomplete answers &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-662773.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moz explaining chain tug &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3449/what-is-the-technical-name-for-this-nut-bolt-thing-with-inner-hubs/3452#3452&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, to protect the soft aluminium frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain tug to solve a chain slippage problem &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3028/fixie-rear-wheel-slippage-problem&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T01:33:54.057" Title="How to install geneticbikes.com's chain tug to horizontal dropout with anti-rotational washer and hub gears?" Tags="&lt;chain-tug&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3553" CreationDate="2011-04-27T21:24:38.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extra stud would usually sit in the dropout slot and help align everything, but your dropout runs the wrong way for that so the stud is just an annoyance. File it off and things will work much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the raised/recessed circle on the front of the tug is not big enough to accept the nut on the hub you may have to file that as well. It's visible in the bottom photo above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update: you will probably be ok with only one antirotation washer, but ideally if you can get the tug in between the frame and hub so you can put the washer on the outside that would be better. Remember that the tug is now taking the force from the chain so the nuts don't need to be done up especially tightly. So you don't need full thread coverage on the nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-04-28T22:24:51.050" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T22:24:51.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-28T00:59:33.220" Score="7" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious if anyone has any interesting books (preferred) or blogs on training for cycling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I ride for a couple hours twice a week, I have a short 15 min commute to work and I ride for half a day every weekend.  I just moved to a new city so I am mostly riding by myself but I want to improve my speed, distance and fitness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping that someone could suggest me a good book about cycling training.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T08:56:05.737" Title="Book Recommendation: Training" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;book&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-07-30T12:51:06.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-28T01:08:33.527" Score="3" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summer is here so I was hoping to get some summer reading on the go (for when I am not riding my bike).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometime in the future (next summer hopefully) I would like to do a cross-Canada bike tour.  I was wondering if anyone had read any good books on bike touring (bonus points for across or in Canada).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book could be in story form or instructional.  Bonus points for funny storys and specifi Canadian  route information.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Blogs are also welcome but priority is given to books, hence the title &quot;summer reading&quot;.  It is hard to read a blog post in the park on a sunny day.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2011-04-28T12:09:35.250" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T12:09:35.250" Title="Summer Reading Recommendation: Bike Touring (Canada)" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;canada&gt;&lt;book&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-28T05:59:18.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3557" CreationDate="2011-04-28T06:08:09.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magnificentnose.com/2007/08/02/david-and-his-bicycle-and-america/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Over the Hills&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, by David Lamb&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not related to Canada, but this book a great first-tourer story; it also encouraged my own interest in touring -- along with John Doesey's wonderful &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketouring.net/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tour journal&lt;/a&gt;, the first one I ever read. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Over the Hills&lt;/em&gt; is a memoir of a middle-aged journalist’s 3000-mile &quot;afternoon ride&quot;. The book is well-written, fun to read, and strikes an excellent balance between travelogue, personal memoir, and barely disguised worship of middle America’s relaxed way of life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author is decidedly &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; part of bicycling culture. He wore ordinary-looking clothing on his trip, ate in ordinary diners and truck stops, and stayed in ordinary hotel rooms, with his bike standing by the side of the bed. Mr. Lamb is very much a character in his own story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Funny story, from the middle of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=RrzLF&amp;amp;page_id=149164&amp;amp;v=2y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boston to New York City tour&lt;/a&gt;: I was pushing my way up a hill on the way to a repair shop, and chatted with a guy on a motorcycle; he started to describe this book, and I interrupted him, asking if it was this book. We both laughed; it was a bonding moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned a few things from this book: To keep my hands loose on the bars when going over grooved pavement, that it's not &quot;cheating&quot; to accept a ride to get past an onerous section of interstate, and that talking to strangers is just plain fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T06:08:09.553" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-28T06:08:09.553" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3556" CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:36:57.837" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vzSqZ.jpg&quot; width=&quot;150&quot; alt=&quot;cover&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be &quot;The Cyclist's Training Bible: A Complete Training Guide for the Competitive Road Cyclist&quot; by Joe Friel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is considered one of the best books about cycling training, even if you are a mountain biker - endurance training needs to happen on road as you need to maintain reasonable heart rate for lots of training types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book has been published several times, the most recent edition in June 18, 2009&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading it, you can also read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Friels blog&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-02T08:56:05.737" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T08:56:05.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-28T19:20:36.917" Score="5" ViewCount="3335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a panaracer rampage tyre which I have mounted on my front wheel. This tire has knobs in the centre tread which have a ramp on one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/avAPI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/avAPI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Panaracer Rampage&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tyre does not have a direction of rotation marked and I'm wondering which way around to mount it. I heard it can be mounted one way for 'better breaking' and the other for 'less rolling resistance'. Which way is which?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to set it up for less rolling resistance. When looking at the bottom of the tyre, and pushing the bike forward, should the ramped or square side of the knobs be making contact with the ground first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen this related question, but it doesn't really answer my specific query:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2449/which-way-do-i-orient-my-bike-tires-tread-direction-and-why&quot;&gt;Which way do I orient my bike tire&amp;#39;s tread direction? and why?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-04-20T15:05:12.703" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T10:26:40.880" Title="What direction of rotation should I mount my tyre?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3563" CreationDate="2011-04-28T20:05:00.857" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't own these tyres but looking at the knobs I think it's obvious which direction would have more traction for climbing - with the &quot;sharp&quot; edge pointing backwards and thus prevening the wheel to slide back - and the other way round for better braking and less rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, some people recommend using &quot;less rolling resistance&quot; setting for the front wheel and &quot;better climbing traction&quot; for the rear - seems quite natural. But the choice is yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXdeG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Panaracer Rampage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1331" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T10:26:40.880" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T10:26:40.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3563" CreationDate="2011-04-29T02:30:32.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I interpret the &quot;direction of rotation&quot; guides as specific to the forces applied. With ramped knobs like you have it's fairly easy - as Czechnology says, the steeper side will grip better than the ramped side will (arguably) roll better. So if you want better braking on the front, put the steep side of the knobs facing forwards (on the ground). For better rolling resistance, have the ramps forward. Of course, on the back you have the choice of better braking or better climbing (accelleration) but not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T02:30:32.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3598" CreationDate="2011-04-29T18:49:05.733" Score="9" ViewCount="6170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Surly Long Haul Trucker a couple years ago, and it has the stock handlebars. My hands don't really fit in the drops, and I sometimes would like a lower handlebar position where I can still reach the brake levers. For windy days, going down a hill real fast, going faster for the heck of it, etc. Having my &quot;go fast&quot; hand position be one I can't reach the brakes is kinda scary. My girlfriend recently got a Trek 520 (this year's model) and seems like with her handlebars my hands would actually fit in the drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's my best option for getting that extra hand position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is &quot;buy new handlebars&quot;, what should I look for in those handlebars? There's a lot of options with &quot;traditional bends&quot;, &quot;ergo bend&quot;, &quot;variable radius bend&quot;, flare, etc. and it's not really clear to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a &quot;touring&quot; bike but I have it outfitted as a commuter. I believe the handlebars are &quot;PMT&quot; which turns out to be nearly impossible to google usefully for. The drops appear to be directly beneath the ramps (no flaring). The classic older 26mm (?) clamp diameter. I'd say a small reach and a small amount of drop, but not quite sure how to measure. Width measure (center to center) came out to about 44cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, handlebar tape is about due for replacement anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spend maybe 75%-90% of my time riding &quot;on the hoods&quot;, a small amount of time on the top flat part, and even less on the drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pictures:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(click for bigger view. And yes, it's the wrong hand but it was easier to take photos that way. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;I can ride with my hand somewhat like this:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFgiZ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFgiZm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hand on back of drop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;But my hands don't really fit forward in the drops where I can reach the brakes. Unless I rotate out and/or squish my hand up a bit; neither of which isn't comfortable:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FvUiJ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FvUiJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hand too big&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mfnos&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mfnosm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;see, hand doesn&amp;#39;t fit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tdcQq&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tdcQqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;definitely doesn&amp;#39;t fit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Handlebar setup pics:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yokeF&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yokeFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;handlebar side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2nVT&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2nVTm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;handlebar top view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8DxGm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8DxGmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;handlebar back view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-04-29T20:42:53.197" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T18:30:02.560" Title="Drop handlebars with drops that don't fit. Replace or adjust?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3569" CreationDate="2011-04-30T00:44:25.043" Score="5" ViewCount="17907" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got an xtech pressure gauge that reads up to 160psi. My bike is a road bike that uses presta valves on the inner tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the gauge (the one at the bottom):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/contents/en-uk/d377.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/contents/en-uk/d377.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I pop it on the valve the reading only seems to go up to about 40 psi. I feel if I inflate my tires much more they might explode (they are pretty much rock solid and I was expecting a reading of something more like 100) - they seem to have the same level of inflation as I bought them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, is there a special way in which I should be hooking this up? At the moment I'm just unscrewing the metal release thing on the presta valve and pushing the gauge on firmly. The gauge holds its reading even after you remove it, and I've tried resetting it by pressing it's release valve button but that doesn't seem to make any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guesssing it's busted but maybe I'm doing something silly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T00:28:44.737" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T13:13:13.460" Title="Is my pressure gauge broken?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="891" CreationDate="2011-04-30T05:07:20.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always heard that lower cadences tend to put more stress on the knees, and I've definitely felt more knee pain after grinding away on higher gears on hill climbs and such, vs when I'm spinning more lightly on flatter terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It kind of makes sense when you think about it -- you have to apply higher pressure against the pedal riding a higher gear. That might also partially explain why the pros keep a higher cadence. They need to spare their joints as much wear as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1427" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T05:07:20.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3567" CreationDate="2011-04-30T07:26:14.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest borrowing a pump with a pressure gauge and pumping up your tyres with that. Then try your gauge once you know the tyre pressure. Bike shops and a lot of cyclists have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=floor%20pump&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;floor pump&lt;/a&gt; because they work better than the little portable pumps than most cyclists carry. And those have a gauge on them that's usually fairly accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say the pressure release button on the gauge &quot;doesn't seem to make any difference&quot;. What do you mean - does the gauge drop back to zero? If not it's definitely busted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T07:26:14.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-30T07:38:16.017" Score="16" ViewCount="65782" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is vegetable oil as good as motor oil to oil a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1428" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2011-05-11T21:39:24.150" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T23:36:57.683" Title="Vegetable oil to oil a bike?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="19" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3570" CreationDate="2011-04-30T14:27:30.637" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vegetable oils tend to &quot;polymerize&quot;, that is become sticky and solid.  Castor oil, for instance, is an excellent lubricant that was favored for racing autos and motorcycles for a long time.  The reason it never became popular for regular cars was that it also built up a lot of sticky, cruddy goo.   Racing engines are regularly torn down and rebuilt; no matter.&#xA;Not so your sedan.&#xA;The oils used in oil-based paints are usually vegetable-based as well; they tend to become quite solid after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I've noted before, lubes, especially chain lubes, seem to be a &quot;thing&quot; for serious cyclists.  Chain lube threads on dedicated bike forums tend to go on and on and on...&#xA;It's the engineering mentality at work.  &quot;Maybe I can get 100 more miles out of my chain if I concoct my own special blend!&quot;   Maybe...&#xA;Chain lubes are cheap.  They cost at most what, 10 bucks for a bottle sufficient for a year?&#xA;As well, chains are cheap.  Oh, you can spend a lot for super-deluxe items, but a good, well-made standard chain is under 20 bucks and will last most riders as long as they keep the bike if lubed and cleaned properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3/best-chain-lubricant-for-road-bikes&quot;&gt;&quot;Best chain lubricant for road bikes?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; Asks about the best lubricant out of conventional oils and lubricants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2703/are-there-substitutes-for-chain-lubricant&quot;&gt;&quot;Substitutes for chain lubricants&quot;&lt;/a&gt; Asks about non-traditional substitutes for chain lubricant &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T21:33:58.667" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3567" CreationDate="2011-04-30T14:31:55.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presta valves can be a little tricky as well.  An old practice is to unscrew the lock-ring all the way and then push it in to break the seal before applying the pump.  Sometimes the valve will stick and you'll get false readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T14:31:55.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2011-04-30T14:35:42.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your hand does look rather cramped in those bars... There are a wide variety of bars available... You have &quot;ergonomic&quot; bars, bars with extra-deep drops... &#xA;Fairly annoying to experiment, however.   Replacing roadster bars is a bit of work; much more involved than say, MTB bars which can be swapped out in few minutes with modern components.&#xA;Consider getting a &quot;fitting&quot;?  It might be worth while to have your position analyzed and then you'd have a better notion as to which way to go with the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T14:35:42.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3586" CreationDate="2011-04-30T17:47:02.007" Score="4" ViewCount="2124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that something has pierced my frame. At any rate, I have a dent in my bike frame. I would like to avoid the possibility of corrosion, with minimium cosmetic trade off. So, how do I go about fixing the dent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since noticed that nothing has pierced my frame. However, there is corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the frame spec:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame Material: Steel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame Size: 17-18&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame: Voodoo Black Magic butted thin wall heat treated Cro-mo frame &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2XOH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View 2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ojltx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View 3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iwkxg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View 4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W7iFA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View 5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u3pyC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View 6&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JalQ6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View 7&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1361" LastEditorUserId="1361" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T12:02:41.853" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T12:02:41.853" Title="How do I fix a dent on my frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;damage&gt;&lt;corrosion&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2011-04-30T18:15:50.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, only children under ten may legally ride on the sidewalk. There is an article that covers it (see on) but it is unclear in parts because the law is unclear: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforall.net/content/cycling_and_the_law.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycling and the law&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1361" LastEditorUserId="1361" LastEditDate="2011-04-30T20:56:14.553" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T20:56:14.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3570" CreationDate="2011-05-01T01:16:42.260" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the chain, not so much. As M. Werner says, it polymerises and turns into stick goo fairly quickly, and there's nothing you can do to stop that. So you can really only put it somewhere that it's easy to remove. Like a chain. Then you just need to use a chain cleaner on it every couple of weeks and reapply the oil. Using vege oil other places could be awful. Inside a hub gear especially, for one example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one friend who tried vegetable oil on his chain, and experimented with a variety of oils. He doesn't use vege oil any more, from memory because it turned to black goo too fast. I believe that even cheap motor oil is better. I have emailed him a link, hopefully he will chime in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: he says he doesn't have anything useful to add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T04:12:48.823" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T04:12:48.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3570" CreationDate="2011-05-01T04:35:58.417" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mineral oil&lt;/a&gt; consists of &quot;alkanes&quot; which have a simple chemical formula (C&lt;sub&gt;&lt;i&gt;n&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;H&lt;sub&gt;&lt;i&gt;2n+2&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fats go &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meta-synthesis.com/webbook/14_radical/radical.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rancid&lt;/a&gt; because their molecules include relatively complicated/weak bonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm less sure about waxes; but oil is more common, in chain lube, than wax).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just Googled the oil which my LBS sold me and note that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/cross-country-lube.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;it says&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;Finish Line’s WET Lubricant features an Inherently Biodegradable formulation which that between 20% and 60% of the product’s base oils will degrade within 28 days.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrast that with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainl.com/FAQ.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;another type of oil&lt;/a&gt;, which lasts a long time by being mineral oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-05-01T04:42:49.817" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T04:42:49.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2011-05-01T11:31:37.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commenting on the first picture:&#xA;You will never be able to reach levers with that hand position on 'classical shaped' drop bars (they are just designed this way)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a strange drops, upper curve of he bars is very short and does not allow to change the position of the brake levers, with your big hands you will always be uncomfortable riding those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend to change your bars, either to classical ones or (if you dont like big differences in position when switching hand position) something like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fsa-omega-compact-road-handlebar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fsa-omega-compact-road-handlebar/&lt;/a&gt; (I use those, and I also am equipped with large hands ;) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1113" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T11:31:37.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-01T13:27:28.067" Score="9" ViewCount="37120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told by various sources that &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/&quot;&gt;WD40 is bad for your chain&lt;/a&gt; so have avoided using it. I've seen people using GT85 on their chains but I'm not really sure how the two products differ. So my question is, should GT85 be used on your chain? Or, does it have the same damaging effects as WD40?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T11:01:10.823" Title="Should you use GT85 on your chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3426" CreationDate="2011-05-01T14:16:23.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One interesting solution I've found (haven't tested it though):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freeload.co.nz/pages/13/The-System&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Freeload&lt;/a&gt; rack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oyiq3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Freeload&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p7S2G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bracket detail&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDW06.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Installation&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be able to hold up to 25 kg according to the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody seen this in action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1331" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-03T10:11:19.520" LastActivityDate="2019-01-03T10:11:19.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3579" CreationDate="2011-05-01T14:19:32.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike Parts USA have it for sale on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepartsusa.com/bikeparts/item/01-138136/lubricants/GT%2D85%2D%2DAerosol%2C%2D14oz%2C%2DLubricant&amp;amp;category=lubricants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; where they describe it as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ozone friendly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Excellent chain and cable lubricant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Stops Oxidation, rust and salt corrosion on metals (sic) surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Loosens rusted or corroded nuts and bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if it isn't any good for your chain somebody better tell them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T14:19:32.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3579" CreationDate="2011-05-01T14:50:27.467" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that there are several products under this name, a general-purpose solvent/protectant and a dedicated bike chain lube.&#xA;Reviews on Amazon are rather mixed... One fellow claims no better than WD-40, others appear to like it.&#xA;Chain lubes are always controversial and seldom tested in a rigorous manner.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WD-40 is essentially a cleaner/solvent and has no  more lubricating ability than say...Kerosene.&#xA;The best chain lube I ever tried is sadly not being made any more... Schwinn Factory Wax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean-running, persistent, and according to testing by Bicycling magazine, among the top for wear and abrasion resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my way of thinking, keeping the chain clean and free of built-up crud and goo is as/more important than what sort of lube used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T14:50:27.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3579" CreationDate="2011-05-01T15:59:43.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sure WD40 lubricates sufficiently if its present in clean lab conditions, however it does not stick very well and any quantity applied is really thin so will not hang around very long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a chain grease you want it to stay between the rubbing surfaces and continue lubricating. You also want it blocking as much dirt from contaminating the contact surfaces sealing them from contamination which WD40 or other thin oil will never do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WD40/GT85 and other thin oil will wash off in rainy wet conditions, and not lubricate or protect the chain for very long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something thicker is going to be better, also keep in mind that a road bike will work well with a thinner oil/grease then some off road bike being cycled through a swamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T15:59:43.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3590" CreationDate="2011-05-01T17:28:16.133" Score="1" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This topic has been cursorily covered by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/925/how-can-i-repair-a-tyre-with-a-deep-cut&quot;&gt;How can I repair a tyre with a deep cut?&lt;/a&gt; before, but less with empirical evidence. Tire patches as mentioned there are not available in my local bike shops anyway, so I'm considering using &lt;strong&gt;tank tape&lt;/strong&gt; instead. (Temporary. Buying new tire anyway..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tank tape is certainly gluey and strong enough I think. And I've already read a few people swear by it as tire reinforcment against punctures. However I have a few 1 cm rifts in the tire sidewalls, so that would hold a few weeks at best. - Unless there's a special glue one could apply to the tire outside as well...(?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My actual concern: I would have to cover around a 1/3 of the inner tire walls. How would that impact the grip between tube and tire? The tank tape has a rather smooth/sleek surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume the tire sits firm on the rim hook, and is otherwise hold by the tube pressure. But I'm not sure how much of a (physical) influence (%) the friction between tire and tube has. Is there any danger if one is partially covered by more slippery tape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T22:33:35.287" Title="Tank tape for tire patching - Enough friction?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3625" CreationDate="2011-05-01T21:01:57.333" Score="18" ViewCount="13543" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When my child falls asleep in the child seat, his head falls forward.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How can I keep his head back?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The child seat is a modern type with a back that can be tilted back to prevent that. It works, but only as long as the bike isn't moving. But at speed, the seat's movements from an uneven road surface and from simply pedalling will slowly but surely make his head fall forward. Short of replacing the child seat with one whose back can be angled even further back, &lt;strong&gt;what options do I have?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of the whiplash protectors used in Formula 1 cars: somehow strap the child's helmet to the seat back. But that would be neither safe nor effective, as such a strap would only tug at the helmet (not the head) with the risk of slow suffocation or at least a helmet that slides into the neck and would no longer protect the head in case of an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me add a fun photo: here, a cloth bag is hung from the helmet in an attempt to keep the child's head from falling forward. We did &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; actually do that, but it shows the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3BiQE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="275" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T20:54:49.813" Title="Child seat: how to keep the child's head from falling forward?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3574" CreationDate="2011-05-01T21:12:45.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your frame isn't pierced through, I wouldn't bother with it much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply some paint of correct type (I'm no expert, consult your local home improvement/paint shop) to stop further corrosion. You might want to remove the existing rust with a fine sandpaper before putting the paint on (again, refer to the manual of the paint or consult the shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are even some special paints for fixing car finishes available in car shops but that might be a little too expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing is to prevent direct contact between the bare steel and water / air humidity if you don't want the rusting to progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: A cheap solution might even be a waterproof and airtight adhesive tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1331" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T21:12:45.550" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3585" CreationDate="2011-05-01T21:55:02.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The seat-back curves backwards towards its top. So if your child were a little higher in the seat (taller/older or, perhaps, sitting on a cushion), then their head would lean back more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a little padding behind the upper back and neck shoulders (so that there's more room for the head to fall backwards) might do too: a &quot;travel neck pillow&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back of the helmet is pushing the head forward, away from the seat (but I can't suggest altering the helmet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T21:55:02.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3585" CreationDate="2011-05-01T22:24:50.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some child seats come with an optional &quot;desk&quot; specifically for this. The BoBike &quot;handlbar&quot;, for instance, is padded up to the point where most kids won't actually be able to hold on to it: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gazellebicycles.com.au/component/content/172.html?task=view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.gazellebicycles.com.au/component/content/172.html?task=view&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try to add something like that, and probably start with a seatpost-mounted handlebar from a tandem (often they use a standard stem and a shim, but you probably want a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tandemseast.com/parts/stems.html#stoker%20stems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tandem-specific extending stem&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17ysm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17ysm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;weeride bike seat to show platform&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-03-28T10:27:00.913" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T10:27:00.913" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3584" CreationDate="2011-05-01T22:33:35.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Friction between tyre and tube is almost irrelevant to the normal situation. There's only movement at that interface at the contact patch, and it's normally small enough that it's done by stretch in the tube rather than sliding. Tubes don't abrade away over time. But when you have big splits in the sidewall friction does play a small part, in slowing down the rate at which the tube buldges out the sidewall before bursting. You're more likely to have a problem caused by the sharp edge or end of a fold in the tape grinding through the tube and causing a puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, it sounds as though you're going to a lot of effort for a temporary solution. I'm not sure why - if it's just to get you to the bike shop to buy a new tyre then maybe, but I'd be walking rather than spending time with tape on a solution that may not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you really need here is tape that's reasonably strong and at least slightly sticks to the inside of the tyre. I prefer a boot made from part of an old tyre, and have seen someone use an entire old tyre to reinforce one like yours. That is a fair bit of work, you have to cut both beads off the inner tyre, but it does work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T22:33:35.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3595" CreationDate="2011-05-02T01:40:23.230" Score="12" ViewCount="54876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard between 30-40mph, but I am pretty sure I have hit 45 and felt safe and in solid control of my bike. If you look down and see you are above XXmph, you decide it is time to put on the brakes...what is that speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: In summary, how can one determine what a safe speed is for a particular bike in a particular situation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="821" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-24T01:02:44.507" LastActivityDate="2021-02-07T19:38:36.667" Title="What is considered the maximum safe downhill speed on a road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;best-practice&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2011-05-02T01:47:13.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that might help is adjusting the reach on the brake levers. This is apparently not a common feature on drop bar brake levers despite being on most flat bar levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myra-simon.com/bike/what_women.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reference here&lt;/a&gt; to Dia Compe short-reach brake levers (BL-24C) that is one example. Or you get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/slim-shim-brake-lever-spacer-ec008424&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shims that have the same effect&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's any consolation I have big hands and still have this issue on some drop bars. I assume the people who own those bikes don't use the brakes from the drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T01:47:13.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-02T02:49:53.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's rider specific. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the downhill sections of the Tour for example, where the riders are doing 30m/s or more. Or gravity bike racing, where the offroad riders regularly hit 30m/s (60mph) and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbontv.com/2007/09/130-mph-downhill-speed-record/&quot;&gt;record is 130mph&lt;/a&gt;, and interestingly the on-road riders are slower, probably because of a lack of suitably steep paved roads. As a comparison point, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/templates/UCI/UCI1/layout.asp?MenuId=MTUxMjc&quot;&gt;UCI record for an upright bicycle&lt;/a&gt; is about 20 m/s (45mph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I don't go much above 15m/s on my uprights and never above 20m/s. But with more wheels and a safer riding position I've felt fairly safe doing a 10 minute descent between 20 and 30m/s. I don't know what my maximum speed was there as my speedo loses the peak speed at ~10m/s and gives a maximum of 146km/hr (presumably related to wheel size and minimum possible time interval on the sensor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T02:58:50.697" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T02:58:50.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2011-05-02T04:16:32.990" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A unicycle is almost the ultimate cross-mode transport system. I mix it with our trains and buses without restrictions (we have public transport policy that separates unis from bikes). I commonly put it in the back of the car when I go somewhere with my wife that is not parking friendly. I can carry the thing through shops and malls without any issues. It is easily stored under my desk at work. It is fine in winter if you have end-of-trip faciliities, better in fact than when I was capable of riding a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1439" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T04:24:03.913" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T04:24:03.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-02T11:31:47.997" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends both on the rider (as @moz pointed out) and on the bike. And of course, you should have a clean road also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a high end road bike in good shape, you can get to very high speeds if you've got the skills and the clear road ahead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Tour de France downhill sections, they can go at speeds as high as 65 mph / 110 Km/h, even losing the motorbike reporters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a counter-example, I had to brake at less than 30 mph / 45 Km/h on an old road bike, as the wheels were shaking due to bad balancing/tired axles/etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, I think going over the &lt;em&gt;cars&lt;/em&gt; legal limit is a very bad idea on open roads (this refers to the Tour de France-class of speeds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1260" LastEditorUserId="1260" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T19:46:24.830" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T19:46:24.830" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-02T13:45:28.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two questions, actually... How fast can you go, and how fast can you go safely...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro road racers have top-flight equipment checked on a daily basis and great skills as well...But even in that elite group there are descenders who can hammer and those who sort of cruise down the big descents..&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As well, those are closed roads with no traffic guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for us mortal men... Consider traffic, what shape your bike is in, etc.   I've gone 45+, and felt solid, but more than that would be pushing.&#xA;My now-deceased buddy said he passed a VW bug on a mountain descent out in Colorado once...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T13:45:28.317" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-02T15:34:24.107" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;On one of my bikes with an analog speedometer, back when I was in really good shape, I decided to find out.  Got a good run onto the biggest downhill around and hammered it all the way down.  Got the speedo up to an indicated 60mph before running out of hill (65 is where it maxed out, not sure how accurate it was).  It was very smooth feeling, all the low speed vibration and bumps pretty much went away, however, I realized that if &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; bad were to happen that I was going to die.  Never again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T15:34:24.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:15:10.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you're treating it as four positions: tops, hoods, vertical part of drops, horizontal part of drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to my bike, your bars seem to be rotated forward, and the levers seem high up the bars. It strikes me that you might be able to try rotating your bars back and move the levers further forward. This would make the hood part of your bar flatter, in the photo when you're holding the hoods, the bar there seems to be going down-hill, and the hoods are going up-hill, but with by rotating the bar and moving the levers, that area would be flatter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, you'd end up with one 'in the drops' position where the bar would be angled at about 35/40 degrees, and you might well be able to both fit your hand there nicely and be able to reach the brakes from that one position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this Surly has the same handlebars, but whatever they are, they definitely seem to be rotated back more as I described. The ends of the bars seem to be vertically under the tops: &lt;a href=&quot;http://lockouttoout.blogspot.com/2010/11/surly-long-haul-trucker-54cm-bike-black.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://lockouttoout.blogspot.com/2010/11/surly-long-haul-trucker-54cm-bike-black.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="472" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T18:28:04.473" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T18:28:04.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:16:32.420" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the answer to this question is not &quot;&lt;em&gt;how fast can you safely go?&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, but rather to look at the inverse, &quot;&lt;em&gt;how fast do you need to safely stop?&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. If you are on a long road with no side roads, and no chance of animals, dirt, gravel, stopped cars, braking cars, etc, then your maximum speed is very much a personal decision. As others in this question have mentioned, there are others who have almost certainly done it faster!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in the real world where you do need to deal with some of these things… coming off of your bike at 40mph, is going to hurt… at best. Braking at those speeds is also going to be challenging, and, just like in a car, the faster you are going, the longer it takes to brake. And this is not a linear relationship. Add to that your brakes won't work as well anyway, since you also need to fight gravity when you are on a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T18:16:32.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3602" CreationDate="2011-05-03T05:48:33.967" Score="16" ViewCount="8434" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the cooler months I normally wear a skullcap like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302889073&amp;amp;PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442627555&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, which both keeps me warm and covers my scalp under my helmet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that summer is around the corner that skullcap is way too hot.  I'd like a way to protect my scalp without completely overheating... do any of my fellow bald guys have any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: To clarify, yes, I am wearing a helmet.  Any solution would have to be something that would work under the helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="654" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T17:46:03.597" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T13:01:36.297" Title="What can bald guys do to prevent helmet sunburns?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;sun-protection&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2011-05-03T06:21:42.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sunscreen lotion smeared over the top of your head? Until it's figured out, basically zinc oxcide on the head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you want a brand reccomendation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T06:33:39.573" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T06:33:39.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2011-05-03T08:13:54.580" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a thin, tropical-weight wool cycling cap.  It'll keep the sun off your head but still breathe and wick sweat.  I have one from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.classiccycling.com/walz-olive-plaid-wool-cycling-cap-p-1722.html&quot;&gt;Walz&lt;/a&gt; that's been just wonderful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T08:13:54.580" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3381" CreationDate="2011-05-03T08:55:44.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.catalog&amp;amp;CategoryID=1&amp;amp;ProductID=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Custom Frame Bags&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.revelatedesigns.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Revelate Designs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Custom made frame bags for your bike. Any size, any shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=gallery.gallery&amp;amp;Categoryid=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bag gallery link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tested them (yet) but seems like a very good choice if you're looking for something durable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1331" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T08:55:44.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3606" CreationDate="2011-05-03T12:46:27.000" Score="3" ViewCount="2470" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it true that 26&quot; rim actual diameter is 25.625&quot;? How does tire size affect wheel diameter?&#xA;Is there any special formula to calculate wheel diameter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T02:11:04.690" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T02:11:04.690" Title="How to properly calculate wheel diameter (rim+tire)?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2011-05-03T12:50:21.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one thing I hate most about loosing my hair is coming back from a ride with lines on my head burned in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunblock is how I handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T12:50:21.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3604" CreationDate="2011-05-03T13:30:19.240" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could calculate the effective diameter by measuring rollout and dividing that number by pi.  To measure the rollout start with your valve stem in the lowest possible position and make a mark on the floor next to the valve stem.  Ride the bike one revolution until the valve stem is at the bottom of it's rotation again and make another mark on the floor.  Measure the distance between the two marks to find the effective circumference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T13:30:19.240" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3604" CreationDate="2011-05-03T14:08:49.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your wheel diameter can vary depending on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire model you are using&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;air pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T14:08:49.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2011-05-03T15:23:31.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presumably you're wearing a helmet... Some are less &quot;open&quot; than others.  I have seen some that have such large holes it would be possible to get leopard-spot tan spots on one's head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the sunblock is the easiest solution....There are very light skullcaps available but they're still going to be hotter than not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not wearing a helmet.... Tests have shown that modern, well-ventilated models are significantly cooler than your bare head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T15:23:31.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3604" CreationDate="2011-05-03T15:26:43.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't trust any formula, since the actual outside diameter can be affected by so many things, and since the advertised tire width isn't always accurate. If you want the diameter, do like Russ said and measure it yourself. You might also be interested in &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;what Sheldon Brown had to say on this subject.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T15:26:43.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="891" CreationDate="2011-05-03T15:31:23.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One aspect of cadence that hasn't been mentioned is that, ideally, the point of your gears is to allow you to maintain your optimal cadence and force on the pedals, while only varying your ground speed. If you had a ideal bicycle with an infinite number of gears, your pedaling cadence and force would be completely independent of uphills, flats, and downhills — you would simply go faster or slower based on conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you don't have an ideal bicycle, but the number of gears on modern bikes is more than enough to closely approximate it. So find a cadence that works for you and try to stay as close to it as possible. Eventually it will become second nature. You will spin faster in a sprint to increase your peak power, or slower to recover after the sprint, but outside of those, keep it constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, your optimal cadence will be where the load on both your anaerobic (strength/muscle) and aerobic (endurance/cardiovascular) systems are sustainable. At the constant power output, keeping your RPMs too low will tire your muscles, but ramping them up too high will exceed the capacity of your heart to keep up. However, it's much easier to increase your cardiovascular endurance than to increase your muscular endurance; that's what your heart excels at in the first place. So pushing your RPMs higher will (to a point), strengthen your heart and allow you to maintain a higher power output for longer periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T15:31:23.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3496" CreationDate="2011-05-03T16:14:30.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my understanding, it shouldn't. The simplest explanation is that power out is equal to power in times efficiency (efficiency being the energy loss due to friction, air resistance, rolling resistance, heat, etc.). Changing gears doesn't change the power in (that part is all on you), nor does it change the mechanical efficiency. Therefore, power output doesn't change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a little bit deeper, power is the total work performed over the total time (&lt;code&gt;P_avg = ΔW/Δt&lt;/code&gt;). In this case, we're considering it over identical durations, so &lt;code&gt;Δt&lt;/code&gt; is constant. In a rotational context, &lt;code&gt;W&lt;/code&gt; is the torque (rotational force) exerted times angular velocity (rotational speed), or &lt;code&gt;W = τθ&lt;/code&gt;. A gear will only change the ratio between torque and angular velocity while maintaining a constant work output. In other words, going to a higher gear might require twice as much torque, but the pedals will spin half as fast. A lower gear might let you spin twice as fast, but you'll be using half the torque. Since the work output is the same, the power output is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this affect wheel-speed? Well, the same &lt;code&gt;W = τθ&lt;/code&gt; affects your wheels, too, but in reverse (your wheels see it backwards: imagine if you were pedaling on your cog, and the wheels were attached to the bottom bracket). A lower gear will put more torque on the wheels (enabling high acceleration), but have correspondingly low angular velocity (rotational speed). A higher gear won't put much torque on the wheels (which is why it's so hard to accelerate), but will make them spin like mad. So ideally, being in as high gear as possible would give you the greatest speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that's where the human body comes into play. We have two complementary systems for generating power: the cardiovascular system, which produces less power but for very long durations, and the muscular system, which excels at producing high power, but only for a short period of time. Ideally, when not sprinting, you want both systems to be producing as much power as they can sustain. The sum of that power (minus efficiency losses) will be your total power output, and the elevation change, rolling resistance, and your aerodynamics will determine what proportion of that output will be ultimately used for torque versus distance (and thus your gear ratio).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T16:14:30.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3579" CreationDate="2011-05-03T16:43:00.053" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't bother with spray lube. It takes only seconds to apply lube from a drip container. I highly recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/webservices/rei/DisplayStyle/760720?source=gpla&amp;amp;cm_mmc=cse_froogle-_-datafeed-_-product-_-760720&amp;amp;mr%3atrackingCode=DEAC15C2-B849-E011-AFD7-001517384908&amp;amp;mr%3areferralID=NA&quot;&gt;ProGold&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spraying on lube makes a mess, gets lube on the outer plates of your chain (where it will just collect dirt and grime), and is wasteful to boot. Just prop your bike up, turn the drip container upside down, touch it to a link, apply a little pressure, and rotate your cranks backward at a medium speed. You might want to start slowly at first, but eventually you get a feel for how quickly lube gets sucked into the chain. I don't bother counting links, I just take a quick glance to make sure the links about to go under the bottle are already lubed. Spin the cranks a bit to make sure the lube works its way into the links, and finally grab the chain with a used rag and spin the cranks until the rag stops collecting dirt. I squeeze the sides of the plates and get them, then I do it again for the tops and bottoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total time is maybe a minute and a half, and an $8 bottle of lube lasts me for months of weekly application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T16:43:00.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2011-05-03T16:59:57.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;30 miles isn't enough that you should be worrying about eating and drinking. Even at a slow, sustained 15mph, just bring a bottle of gatorade and a bottle of water. Drink gatorade the first hour, then water the second (the ride will be over by the time you'd feel any extra energy from the second bottle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe have a small snack beforehand. A granola bar or something else that's light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T16:59:57.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2011-05-03T17:45:01.093" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a bandana underneath the helmet. I have seen several bald riders using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T17:45:01.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3523" CreationDate="2011-05-03T19:27:34.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cruiser classes- 24 inch, typically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1441" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T19:27:34.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2011-05-03T19:46:08.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally wear a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.headsweats.com/categories/Our-Products/Classic-Styles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;headsweats&lt;/a&gt;&quot; type cap/bandana as well as sunscreen on any exposed skin.  This type of product has the added benefit of absorbing some or most of the sweat coming off your dome and headed for your eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes - as other posters have mentioned, this works well under a helmet, just like a bandanna would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T19:46:08.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2011-05-03T22:00:52.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of helmet covers that work for me. There's one in my profile pic, and a large version of that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike/ride/nz-2005/01-20-twizel/nztour-omarama-02-moz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pic here&lt;/a&gt;. Basically thin, stretchy synthetic material that goes over the whole helmet, and includes a small visor and large cotton neck flap. Down here the hole in the ozone layer makes the sun a little more enthusistic so it's even more important. I find the helmet cover cooler than anything that goes directly on my head, and the slight extra wind resistance is not an issue when touring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use a headsock in the winter, but it does get toasty in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T00:31:28.520" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T00:31:28.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3620" CreationDate="2011-05-03T23:43:27.050" Score="10" ViewCount="24579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently in a bike-shop where the proprietor told me that the &quot;normal&quot; racing wheels of the more advanced bikes are normally only rated to carry 85kg. For example, he mentioned the Bianchi Maddux RX 5.1 as being unsuitable for a 95+kg person… you could ride on them, but within six months you would be unhappy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never heard this before, and while it is obvious that the wheels will have a designed weight limit, I find 85kg really light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am over 6'4&quot;, so getting to 85kg renders me as a stick insect, and is unlikely to happen… So I would like to know whether I really need to splash out the extra to get custom made 36 spoke wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the direct question, for a normal 24 spoke wheel, what is the designed carry load for this wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I ended up getting myself a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.com/en/product/wheels/road-triathlon/wheels/Ksyrium-SR&quot;&gt;Mavic Ksyrium SR&lt;/a&gt; wheels. The general reviews seem to have them as being fairly strong...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2&lt;/strong&gt;: Having ridden these wheels for a few thousand kms, I can say that they really are strong. I just had a front-on accident where the bike frame had the top pipe literally snapped , and the front wheel is only slightly off true, and with a relatively small dent... still enough to write the wheel off, but I was extraordinarily impressed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastEditorUserId="1050" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T21:52:36.910" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T00:26:06.847" Title="What is the maximum weight that &quot;normal&quot; racing wheels can withstand?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3618" CreationDate="2011-05-03T23:58:34.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmm. It turns out that he might be onto something. I found this on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fulcrumwheels.com/repository/file/en/Racing7Road-Cx.pdf&quot;&gt;Fulcrum Racing 7 manual page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you weigh over 109kg/240lbs then we advise you not to use this product. Non-compliance with this warning can damage the product irreversibly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you weigh 82kg/180lbs or more, you must be especially vigilant and have your bicycle inspected more frequently (than someone weighing less than 82kg/180lbs). Check with your mechanic to discuss whether the wheels that you have selected are suitable for your use, and to determine the frequency of inspections.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find a similar statement for the Maddux, but it is not improbable that they have something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T23:58:34.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3618" CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:30:07.977" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a sometime wheelbuilder, I'd say yes. Lightweight wheels definitely come with weight limits and you should respect them. It should be in the manual for the wheel, and ideally on the spec sheet as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not to say you need to obey them, just be aware that when you don't you're much more likely to have problems. But for a race where they matter, it can be worth it. You're likely to get away with them for flat time trial when a steep climb or criterium will see them fail in the first race. But for the TT, those wheels might shave the critical 5s off your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just your weight on the saddle that matters. You're also stronger than a lighter rider, and more likely to have a huge amount of explosive power. Those are the things that actually cause wheels to fail because that's when you're side loading the wheel. Throwing the bike around in a sprint is especially bad because you're throwing your weight sideways at the bike on the down stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had customers who can't even get a reasonable life out of standard 36 spoke wheels. All it takes is a 100kg guy who races criteriums or rides to work and likes jumping out of the lights, and their wheels start failing after a few Mm. The tricky ones are the 120kg+ riders who are overweight and are riding to lose it. Often we see them only after their first bike has fallen apart under them (and it's a combination of being heavy and poor technique - they don't lift off the saddle on bumps, so the rear wheel takes the full impact of every lip and pothole). Having to explain that no stock wheel will work can be hard - instead of a $500 bike they're going to need a heavy $600 steel MTB with $300 of custom wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T00:30:07.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-04T06:06:35.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that even if you feel confident &amp;amp; safe going at a higher speed this is a dangerous thing to do. You can never tell if a car is going to swerve into your path, if a cow might stroll out of a bush or if there's a pothole underneath that seemingly shallow puddle just waiting to throw you right off your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go at very fast speeds you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to take into consideration you might fall. If you're travelling at 50mph and fall you're in some fairly serious trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not saying don't go fast, I'm just saying give it some serious thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T06:06:35.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-04T08:40:07.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the answers referring to safe stopping are exactly right, but then there is another consideration - your equipment. @moz uses m/s and this gives a real feeling for the amount of distance you can cover in the time it will require to observe, decide and then act. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to that your equipment. I remember a friend once discussing their recent Alpine trip and his first major experience of serious mountains. He'd been doing a lot of climbing training in the lead up and knew every decent ascent within 30-40 miles of home, but the biggest thing that you couldn't train for without the same conditions were the descents. When gravity and the road is making you go faster than you are comfortable with - and when the friction of your brake blocks heat the rims so much your tubes explode and then the blocks melt and solidify against whatever they touch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A maximum safe speed is basically how fast can the rider stop given the ambient conditions and their equipment. There's never going to be one answer for all situations, but the faster you go, the better you're going to need to be - and the better your kit will need to be, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T08:40:07.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3618" CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:59:58.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common problem.  I ran into 180lb weight limits on both wheels AND pedals when putting together my last bike.  That seems to be the typical number, so those of us that are bigger than that need to be careful and just expect more frequent failures.  Seems like everything bike related is designed for short skinny people.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T12:59:58.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3585" CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:11:02.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a neck pillow to fit our youngest. Similar to this one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000EOEAUS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Noodlehead-Travel-Buddies-Neck-Pillow/dp/B000EOEAUS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She went down a good bit of the the Katy trail using one of these in a Topeak rack seat. Works like a champ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1447" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T20:11:02.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-04T22:46:28.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have hit 50 mph on a Calfee road bike, no problem. Always felt more secure on my tandem though.&#xA;I spin out the crank at about 40 to 45 mph with 53x11 depending on my level of training.&#xA;I stopped going that fast though as I am too aware of the consequences of a fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1449" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T22:46:28.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2011-05-04T23:01:16.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;20 to 22 mph (32 to 35 kph) average over 40 miles (64 km) with a light road bicycle, bicycle shorts, clipless pedals, proper bicycling shoes, a helmet, excellent fitness, and a lot of practice. Peak speeds can be as high as 30 to 35 mph (48-60 kph) on the flats in a tight group of 6 or eight riders or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1449" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T10:51:51.790" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T10:51:51.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2011-05-04T23:08:51.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are under inflating your tires. I am 6'8&quot;, 270 lbs and ride successfully on 23x700 at 120 lbs pressure. I had pinch flat problems with 23x700 on my tandem which were resolved by using 25x700. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1449" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T23:08:51.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2011-05-05T00:32:37.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted...It's mostly the motor...  On nice flat roads with a good roadster...20+ even at my age.  However, throw in some hills and a headwind and the average plummets.&#xA;I have  a 2-mile road course around the local park that incorporates 2 hills on each leg.  When I was 15 years younger and in good shape, I could maintain 18 around that.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not now...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T00:32:37.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3636" CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:20:47.397" Score="0" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I don't use the proper tools. Last time I used spoons to take out the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1433" LastEditorUserId="1433" LastEditDate="2011-05-06T01:06:50.577" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T01:06:50.577" Title="Is it possible to loosen or crack the tire when I change a broken tube?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3632" CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:36:42.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The danger of not using the right tools are that you may scratch or ding the rim, causing further problems later on, or pinch the tube, which will result in the tire remaining flat after you fix the original hole. Bike tire levers are very cheap, you can buy a nice set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3965298&amp;amp;cid=CSE%3aGoogleProductSearch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Park ones&lt;/a&gt; for about 3 bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technique... Use the tire lever only for &lt;em&gt;dismounting&lt;/em&gt; the tire. Push the stem in a bit, and then push the rim in as far as you can at that point. Then, go to the opposite side of the rim and slide the tire tool in carefully, avoiding pinching the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most tires, you don't have to actually pry the tire loose, just slide the tool from side to side a bit till you can work it off by hand. Normally, you don't have to totally remove the tire to fix a flat, but you must identify and remove whatever caused it. You should be able to remount the tire with your hands alone, as it's easiest to pinch the tube when trying to use the tool to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-05T21:54:26.687" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T21:54:26.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3637" CreationDate="2011-05-05T20:50:26.187" Score="4" ViewCount="1240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any one have any tips for riding in mud, and lots of it? I am talking about mountain biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am doing a race on Sunday, and it rained all week, and there's a chance of rain during the contest as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T19:58:06.553" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T19:58:06.553" Title="Mountain biking: How to ride in mud?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;mud&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3632" CreationDate="2011-05-05T21:33:34.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can definitely damage the rim and tyre. But normally you just pinch the tube. The little dents you make have sharp edges which are not good for the tyre, and you might possibly poke your tool through the sidewall, but it's extremely unlikely that you will break the bead of the tyre. You might even crack the rim by excerting too much force (this is normally a problem for people who resort to metal tools after breaking plastic tyre levers). But &lt;strong&gt;if you're using that much force, you are doing it wrong&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyre levers are cheap, buy some. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tenerife-training.net/Tenerife-News-Cycling-Blog/2007/12/bike-review/michelin-the-worlds-best-tyre-lever/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Michelin&lt;/a&gt; (almost flat, yellow rectangles) or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/accessories/helpful_tools/lever&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schwalbe&lt;/a&gt; (blue ovals) are the better brands IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;magic&quot; technique bike mechanics use for removing tyres is to pick one point on the rim, pull the tyre out at that point, then run your other hand round pushing the bead into the slight depression in the middle of the rim. That gives you extra slack at the hand that's pulling out, making it easier to get the tyre off. It also makes sure the rim isn't stuck to the tyre at any point, and makes sure the bead is disengaged from the hook of the rim. I usually use a tyre lever for that so that any rough spots or objects embedded in the tyre don't end up in my hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at a rim cross section to see what I mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/grzyV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bicycle rim cross section&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things to look at: the hooks that &quot;grab&quot; the bead to hold the tyre in place, and the slight curve that creates a low spot for the bead to sit in while you're getting the tyre off. Done this way I often don't need tyre levers except for running one round the rim to loosen the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-05T23:01:29.310" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T23:01:29.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3634" CreationDate="2011-05-05T21:40:10.410" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turn your head before your face hits it. There might be rocks and dental work is expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, more than about 50mm of mud and it's both faster and easier to carry your bike. Other than that it's just a sticky version of riding on loose gravel. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;stay loose on the bike - off the saddle or at least slightly unweight it. Be ready for the bike to move in its own direction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;try to keep traction. If you hit a solid bump, pour on the power to get max benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;learn to handle losing traction on the front wheel. Practice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you're floating and don't have traction, power on and try to either dig through it or power over it. The difference is how much weight you put on the back wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But any of this is only good for short sections. Note the liberal use of &quot;power&quot;. If you've got 20km of mud you just have to slog through it, probably on foot. Touring on a mud-over-gravel road is about as miserable as it gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-05T23:09:46.357" LastActivityDate="2011-05-05T23:09:46.357" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3639" CreationDate="2011-05-06T02:22:21.907" Score="3" ViewCount="653" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shovel,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saw,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roulette (very long, perhaps even geodetic roulette),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ax.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trail will be built in a forest. So there's no rocks, just dirt, small stones and a lot of roots. What else will I need to build a good forest trail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T21:52:27.580" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T16:48:33.667" Title="Tools required for trailbuilding?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3638" CreationDate="2011-05-06T03:09:24.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends a lot on the ambition of the trail and the local conditions. Are you trimming branches in a forest or creating a safe path down a rock face?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other dirt-working tools will probably be helpful, a pick and wheelbarrow are the obvious ones I can think of. Knowlege of how to safely prune trees and plants, plus some knowlege of trail construction, and some skill at dealing with people might be handy (I'm not sure whether skills count as tools in the same way knowlege does).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consumables like tree repair paint and gravel will be useful and possibly necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have significant embankments you can definitely move concrete embankment bracing segments by hand, but a motor vehicle would make that easier. If you're using concrete a trowel would be good. If you're driving stakes a sledgehammer is essential (and if you're not, what holds your anti-erosion material in place?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The limited MTB trail making I have done has all just required a spade, hammer and supply of pegs (I have used a small axe for the latter two but it's not a good idea). Stuff that I could carry on my bike, in other words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-06T03:58:55.543" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T03:58:55.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3618" CreationDate="2011-05-06T09:39:09.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mavic says 100kg limit for all their wheels. Maybe you should look at a different brand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T09:39:09.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3549" CreationDate="2011-05-06T10:30:34.270" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several good systems. I'm a certified BG fitter, as well as certified with the retul system. You're familiar with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.specialized.com/us/en/body-geometry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BG system&lt;/a&gt;, as you've already been through it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://retul.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Retul&lt;/a&gt; is a system which uses power measurement and body position sensors on a 3 dimensional wire frame (virtual) reproduction of your bike and body. It allows an experienced fit specialist to see the skeletal body position without the intervening tissue interfering with the process. The power measurement is individualized to each foot, which means that efficiency can be improved and equalized, and you can see in real time how a body position change affects your efficiency on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, they are both good fits, performed by a skilled bike fitter. A skilled fitter can be defined 3 ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, your fitter should ride a bike. Now, experienced fitters are often the older guys in a shop, so they may not be fast or aggressive riders. They may even be fat. But they still need to ride, to be able to feel the way new bike styles and fit ideas affect the way a fit should be done. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The fitter needs to be experienced at bike fit. Preferably, years of experience. Learning to properly fit a bike is a time intensive process. It is best accomplished by an apprenticeship with an older, experienced fitter, in combination with classroom education on new tools and techniques. It is ok to be fit by someone who is learning, but it will take more time and you should expect more trial and error in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The fitter needs to be willing and able to examine the method of fit he is using and modify it to fit the needs of the rider. Meaning, a skilled and experienced time trialist needs a very different body position than a first time roadie looking to do a century in 6 months. A fit must take into account the fitness, experience, and intent of the rider. A fitter who fits everyone the same way is unlikely to do well for all of his or her clients.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to get back to the original question, there are many good fit systems, but what works best for you will depend on your intent, experience riding, and your fitness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BG fit is a great option for riders who are more interested in comfort than in efficiency. There is a balance point where comfort and efficiency meet up. That is what a well performed BG fit will find. But, there is a point where a racer, who is generally more interested in efficiency and power than in comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a certain amount of pain and suffering that is expected of a rider who is looking to maximize performance, which will come at the price of a loss of comfort. The Retul fit does a great job of maximizing performance, bu the &quot;comfort&quot; zone it looks for is peak performance without actual damage to the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both fit styles in the hands of an experienced fitter can be tuned to the rider. I find that quite often, though, there is bit of &quot;I drank the Kool-Aid&quot; mentality with fitters who have the classroom training, but not the flexibility or possibly the experience to recognize that every fit must be individualized to the rider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I guess, what I'm saying is it is worth checking out other styles of fit, but it should be a style and a fitter which fit with your intent on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:19:55.523" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:19:55.523" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-06T11:57:05.210" Score="2" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started to bike regularly about a month ago. A few days ago I had my first serious crash. I was going at a decent speed on the road and then slipped and fell on concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am less confident about riding again. Part of it is because it happened so suddenly and when I was not expecting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know how often do crashes happen to bikers? Also how do you recover from them, both physically and mentally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1453" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T13:12:20.963" Title="How to recover from a crash?" Tags="&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-05-06T18:23:06.493" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3642" CreationDate="2011-05-06T13:02:30.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of biking you do, it could be a daily occurence or only occur due to bad luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Physically, I would get myself checked out by a doctor, and possibly a physical therapist who can evaluate what needs to be done to get yourself back in the saddle.  One of the toughest things I find after an injury is being patient, but it is often worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mentally, I would try and ride with others who can give you encouragement and also hopefully distract you from focusing on what &quot;might&quot; happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chin up and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T13:02:30.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3642" CreationDate="2011-05-06T13:03:58.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, I am glad you are okay. Crashes happen to everybody, and they can happen in the most unsuspecting circumstances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not think there is a good way to gauge how often crashes happen to riders, but generally the more you ride the more opportunity there is to crash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For physical recovery, it goes like any thing else. Rest your sore muscles and keep all cuts and scrapes clean until they heal. If it was a bad crash you may not want to ride again until your body is completely better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mentally recovering from a crash can be tricky. The only way to really conquer it is to get back on and keep riding. If you are unsure of yourself start off slow and ride in a place that is comfortable to you (your neighborhood, the local park, etc). It also helps to ride with a friend, and talk through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know how to avoid crashes in the future I highly recommend taking a cycling skills course. If you are in the states the League of American Bicyclist has instructors all over the country that teach classes on bike control and crash avoidance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1447" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T13:03:58.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3642" CreationDate="2011-05-06T13:12:20.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to know how often do crashes happen to bikers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on how you ride (and what you ride, and where, and when).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I was talking with a young man recently, who owns a racing bike. We were talking about where we ride and I told him that I'm not comfortable on a road which has two lanes in each direction and a speed limit above 50kph/30mph. He said, &quot;That's ridiculous.&quot; I remembered that he'd said earlier that he'd broken bones by slipping on a wet man-hole cover when tearing round a round-about, and replied, &quot;Perhaps, but I've never broken any bones.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I ride with caution: not always slowly, necessarily, but definitely varying according to how I feel (and what my past and present experience tells me) about the road conditions. I'm commuting, not racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fell off three times in the first week of riding my current bike: twice, from slipping on ice, once from not unclipping in time when stopping; each of these times I was travelling at about 5kph/3mph or less, and so not hurt (not even scratched, wearing a winter coat, just one mild bruise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going downhill for example now, I'm concious that there might be sand or gravel on the road, that the pavement may be cracked in places (by frost, this is in Toronto). I don't ride slowly, but I do try slowly enough, to stay in control: compare that with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3591/what-is-considered-the-maximum-safe-downhill-speed-on-a-road-bike/3597#3597&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I posted &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3219&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; most people answered that I needn't expect to fall at all again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I'm not comfortable on a multi-lane road is that, on such a road once, during rush hour, a motorist hit me from behind by trying to undertake someone else while I was in the curb-side lane. Well, that hurt (me and my bike). Luckily it didn't stop me riding, but it did stop me riding on that particular stretch of road, and made me more wary of being hit from behind. I don't expect it will happen again: partly because I avoid that kind of road now, partly because I'm more cautious, sometimes stopping by the side of the road to let a rush of cars overtake instead of pulling out into traffic and just hoping that someone will slow down for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also how do you recover from them, both physically and mentally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is &quot;how to recover physically&quot; a medical question? It depends on the injury: see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/99&quot;&gt;this Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt; for some details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T13:12:20.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3638" CreationDate="2011-05-06T14:17:21.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the basic tools. I would add a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pickaxe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pickaxe&lt;/a&gt;, and a standard garden hoe. The pickaxe can be used to carve out the side of inclines that need to have single track cut in. The hoe is useful for pulling loose dirt and rocks out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It addition to hand tools I would add a string trimmer, or brush cutter. Sometimes grass and undergrowth has to be cleared before you can lay the path. A trimmer makes this much easier. If this is going to be a remote area or you do not want to use motorized tools, bring pruning sheers and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scythe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;scythe&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need work gloves, water, a first aid kit and other things to take care of the workers making the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1447" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T14:17:21.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3638" CreationDate="2011-05-06T14:23:25.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never done any trail building but If I was building trails I would defiantly by a Bob trailer.  It should fit through single track.  It is weighted for 70 lbs.  Costs about $410 Canadian.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S33bj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442412491&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302889385&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T14:23:25.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3638" CreationDate="2011-05-06T15:16:53.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far most of what have been suggested are handtools... some planning and design tools are important as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a copy of the International Mountain Biking Association's book, &quot;Trail Solutions: IMBA's Guide to Building Sweet Singletrack.&quot;  Find it here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imba.com/catalog/book-trail-solutions&quot;&gt;http://www.imba.com/catalog/book-trail-solutions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spent the last three winters designing and building an 8-mile-long mountain bike trail with a specialist from IMBA--and this book is a really great resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tools that I used the most while doing trail layout were a CLINOMETER and ROLLS AND ROLLS OF FLAGGING.  Ideally, to minimize erosion, you will want to keep your trail grades under 12% with short, steep pitches minimized.  Even after spending months in the woods with a clino, I still sometimes look at a grade and guess it wrong--usually too steep.  Always double-check with the clino.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we were laying out the Paradise Royale trail, at King Range National Conservation Area, we used several colors of flagging--one to denote the downhill side of the trail-to-be, one to denote access points or GPS waypoints, and another to denote specific trees that needed to be removed, etc.  I think we went through at least five cases of flagging while laying out that trail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the King Range, one could not utilize flagging without creating sight-lines... so we often used small saws and lopping shears for that.  Get the sight-lines open so that you can actually use the clino.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get some good-quality topo maps of the area where you are building as well as a GPS with topo map background display.  These made finding our way between cliff faces, water features and old logging roads possible despite dense foliage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During our sessions crashing through the forest, we found two-way-radios to be quite valuable.  These were especially important during the scouting phase.  &quot;What's it look like where you are right now?&quot; &quot;It's a tangle of brush and rocks.&quot; &quot;Looks like that here, too--what's your side-slope?&quot; &quot;Like 80%&quot; &quot;Okay, lets meet back at the creek crossing and rethink this...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends on how intense the terrain and foliage are where you will be working... but you get the picture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T15:16:53.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3638" CreationDate="2011-05-06T15:35:25.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am posting this as a separate answer because it is so different from my commentary on planning and design...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't like to think of people as tools.  Usually only law enforcement types think of regulations as tools... but think of both of these as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have worked for four different land management agencies in the U.S. and have built or maintained hundreds of miles of trails.  User-defined trails on public lands are often a headache--and although we often do not catch the trail-builder, the trails are often quickly dismantled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Know who the important players are.  Is it a U.S. Forest Service forestry technician at the local office?  Is it the director of parks and recreation for a county park?  Know who these people are and start talking with them early.  Even if they have no plans to build a mountain bike trail where you want one... if it is on their land, you will need to work with them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I have had groups approach me with interest in a trail where we had no interest in building one.  Sometimes it works out.  If there are no other issues--endangered species, riparian habitat, watershed issues, ownership patterns, etc--sometimes these trails get built.  It can take some time to get buy-in... but if there is community support it usually only takes a little tenacity and negotiation to get into trail-building mode.  Often on public lands, the trail will get built as an &quot;agency project&quot; with you providing all of the &quot;volunteer&quot; labor... but it does happen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be prepared to at some point realize that sometimes &quot;no&quot; is the answer.  If you have a great spot that you want to build a trail across public land but you come to learn that it is the only hillside in the world where the limestone salamander lives... is the extirpation of a species something we should risk for a recreation trail?  True, sometimes minor environmental concerns are used by agencies as stalling techniques... but get to know the players and soon you will learn which issues are important and which can be &quot;mitigated.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Know the players and know the rules.  Understand that if you are planning to build a mountain bike trail through a designated wilderness area in the U.S. that the answer will always be &quot;no&quot; and that it is out of the hands of local officials.  &quot;Wilderness&quot; with a capital &quot;W&quot; is enacted by the U.S. Congress and cannot be changed through negotiaion with anyone save congressional aides.  Bicycle travel is not permitted in wilderness areas by congressional decree (1963).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are, of course, a lot of players and a lot of rules.  I have just given a few examples here... but knowledge of your LOCAL issues, players, and regulations, may be the most important TOOLS IN YOUR TOOLCHEST. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T15:35:25.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3652" CreationDate="2011-05-07T12:06:45.493" Score="2" ViewCount="732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a single speed bicycle which has a spacer screw that controls the position of the rear wheel and hence the tension of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screw goes through a small hole in the frame, which is threaded, and in to the drop out area. With the pair of screws at a level pegging, the proper position the wheel is assured and the chain tension is maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the name of this part? I've bent one of my screws and need a replacement but can't find a hit on &quot;rear wheel spacer screw.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastEditorUserId="762" LastEditDate="2011-05-07T12:12:50.343" LastActivityDate="2011-05-07T14:51:13.547" Title="Name of part - Rear wheel spacer screw" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3650" CreationDate="2011-05-07T14:51:13.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dropout adjustment screw.  Here's a thread from the Bikeforums with some links and such to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-274077.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-274077.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately they do not appear to be standard... You might try haunting more established shops to look through their old-parts boxes.&#xA;Most hardware stores carry a very wide variety of metric fasteners; you might be able to find a suitable screw there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-07T14:51:13.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3656" CreationDate="2011-05-07T16:30:05.730" Score="2" ViewCount="1688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not really a pro in bicycles, I barely know the basics about the construction itself, but I love cycling. I've been cycling on my old bicycle for 2 months now and I love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, my bike has broken down today, so I need to go to our local shop and buy a new one. I bike on roads, or on easier hills, sometimes on a rocky trails, but nothing really crazy or extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for when buying a new bike, what should I want, or what should I not want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect to spend about $500 and I really don't want to get ripped-off, or buy a bike I don't need for my trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T17:35:52.907" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T15:03:11.947" Title="I am about to buy a new bicycle - what should I check before I do so?" Tags="&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3653" CreationDate="2011-05-07T17:00:22.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your shop's reputation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider buying used. Maybe police, town or rail services are holding an auction soon? You might be able to grab a good bike there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about your old bike. What would you have wished? Make a list of your plans and wishes, and decide about the suspension first. Gearing. Equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastActivityDate="2011-05-07T17:00:22.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1882" CreationDate="2011-05-07T23:56:21.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In NSW (Australia) we're limited to 200W but that's really the only restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we're seeing a lot is things that look like scooters but have pedals poking out the side and are sold as &quot;electric bicycles - no license necessary&quot;. The seat is so low and the pedals so far back and so far out that it's not really possible to pedal them any distance. Amusingly there was a court case recently where a cop saw one of those electric scooters being ridden as a bicycle and said to the rider &quot;ride 200m using only pedal power&quot;, then when the rider couldn't issued a ticker for an unlicensed motorbike. The rider took it to court and lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The irritating thing for bike shops is that they have scooter parts, so bicycle shops can't really service them. And motorbike shops hate them because the owners don't want to pay motorbike prices for repairs. So the owners come into the bicycle shop having been either quoted a motorbike-size amount for repairs or sworn at and told not to come back, but then the bicycle shop can't fix them. I suspect there are a lot of them sitting in sheds having done less than 500km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that we get the full range of everything from absurd retrofit kits, throttle controlled hub motors right up to the Gazelle eBikes. And the completely illegal DIY 2000W hub motor jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-15T04:28:53.670" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T04:28:53.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3653" CreationDate="2011-05-08T00:09:46.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go further than posipiet: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3470/how-to-choose-a-local-bike-shop&quot;&gt;find a good bike shop&lt;/a&gt; and do what they say. They know exactly what bikes are available and how those bikes work in your local area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest thinking very carefully about suspension. On a bike that cheap you will not get good suspension, so the question is whether you would rather have poor suspension or better parts. The money that goes into the suspension comes from the rest of the bike - everything else is a little bit cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying second hand is definitely a good way to save money. There's more risk of getting a bad bike, and you need to be careful about bikes that are cheaper than they should be  - they're probably stolen. The difference between a bargain and a thief can be hard to tell. Checking the frame number with the Police is about all you can really do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of bike do you want? The choice is between a mountain bike and a hybrid, I think, although you could get a cheap racing bike for $500. But if you ride offroad at all the racing bike will not work, so Iĺl ignore that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hybrid bike will have thinner tyres, a more upright seating position and be slightly lighter. You will go slightly faster on it, but off road it will not work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MTB will be lower, longer and have fatter tyres. It will be less comfortable but perform better off road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like suspension, disk brakes look cool and all the expensive bikes have them. But again, cheap disk brakes cost more than cheap V brakes so that extra money means everything else is a little bit cheaper. They will probably work better than V brakes, but cost more to service. But they might not need servicing as often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider spending some money on accessories. At least lights and a rear rack, possibly mudguards as well. Buying panniers is probably out of your budget, but those will make commuting a lot easier. The idea is to get your load off your back and onto the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T00:09:46.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3653" CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:06:27.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to get a solid entry-level mountain bike or hybrid (or &quot;comfort&quot; or &quot;fitness&quot; bike for your 500 bucks.  Likely not a decent roadster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, there are a number of &quot;city&quot; bikes on the market now which are basically mountain bikes with smaller, street-tread tires.  Very practical for many riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you want to do?  Bash the trails?  Commute? Cruise the bike trails in the local park? Rails-to-trails riding?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For many riders, the hybrid type is quite practical.  They are not efficient for fast-long-distance road riding, but for casual riding they are simple to operate and reasonably comfortable.&#xA;If you plan to go off-road a mountain bike is more appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is frankly little difference between major brands at this price-point.  You're going to be looking at a Chinese-made frame with various name-brand components bolted on.&#xA;Important thing...Make sure it fits.  You will never be happy on an ill-fitting bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T02:06:27.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3567" CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:15:54.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just went on a ride with some friends, one of which has his tires inflated to 90psi. 90psi is way higher than I thought.. there is &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; give on his tires when you squeeze them. Looks like I need to pump mine way higher!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, considering getting a floor pump as 90psi might be a pain with my hand pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T02:15:54.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3653" CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:20:28.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest there may be quite a difference between roads and rocky trails. I bought a bike recently for commuting, that I love:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harder tires (so quite fast): 35 mm wide, pumped to 85 or 100 psi ... these are not the thinnest tires though (I think racing tires are more like 23 mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Robust (not too light-weight, not a racing bike), so the wheels don't break if it hits a pot-hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has done pretty well getting me home on snowy roads (i.e. non-ideal surface). But for an unpaved road you might prefer lower-pressure, wider &quot;mountain bike&quot; tires (e.g. pressurised to only 40 psi): which, if you have them, would be quite a bit a slower on paved roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you should include some photos of what you mean by &quot;rocky trails&quot;? For example if &quot;rocky&quot; means &quot;crushed stone&quot; see &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showthread.php?t=29727&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.teamestrogen.com/showthread.php?t=29727&lt;/a&gt; (which might be managed with a road or hybrid bike) but if &quot;rocky&quot; means natural/actual rocks that's something else entirely (perhaps requiring suspension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T02:20:28.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3653" CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:31:49.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my process for buying a new bike: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a list of the requirements for your new bike.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go and buy a cheap used bike.  The bike should be relatively inexpensive (relative to your target purchase) and should retain it's value well so that you can resell it.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride the bike.  See what kind of riding you are doing (where?  How agressive?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Update your list of requirements.  If you are confident that you now know what you want go drop the big bucks.  I still recommend buying used because then the bike will have a better resale value and it is somewhat inevitable that sometime in the future you will be upgrading to a new bike.  If you still don't know what you want return to step 2.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently decided that I wanted to get into road biking.  Last summer I dropped $20 on the shittiest road bike you can imagine.  I used the bike for about two months (I could never unseize the seat post).  I shopped for bike #2 for a couple months.  I knew where I would be riding and what features I wanted from bike #1.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Norco I bought (Bike #2) was also a used bike but it is awesome.  The fit is perfect (learned from bike #1).  It is reasonably light weight, has better components and not a spot of rust.  After making some repairs on bike #1 I am confident making the same repairs on a bike I love.  I also have all the parts from bike #1 in my basement ready to sub in should something break or help out my friends when they need some parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know now that I love the road.  I am thinking about turning the Norco into a commuter and investing in a newer lighter road bike.  After I get bike #3 I will begin evaluating it and planning for bike #4.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key points: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trial and Error is the best teacher.  There is no way that you (or anyone else) can know what kind of bike you should get until you have messed around and gotten your hands dirty.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy used if you don't like it you can resell it again for about the same price as you bought it for (more if you put some love into it).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The evaluation process is fun and you will have a beater bike until you get your new one.  Once you get the new one you can use the old one for parts, turn it into a beater (rain, groceries, rack and fenders etc) or resell it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T02:31:49.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-08T11:56:06.527" Score="1" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2781/how-much-maintenance&quot;&gt;How much maintenance?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've purchased a nice hybrid (a Trek Fx) and plan on using it as my daily commuter, maybe averaging 50 miles per week on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What regular and preventative maintenance do I need to perform on the bike to keep it riding well?  Please provide a basic description as well as a rough schedule (e.g. &quot;clean the chain monthly&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T11:56:06.527" Title="What is a reasonable maintenance routine for a commuter bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2011-05-08T18:43:56.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3748" CreationDate="2011-05-08T19:11:34.597" Score="18" ViewCount="11452" Body="&lt;p&gt;The limited selection of electric bikes available at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/categorydisplay_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_categoryId_211566_langId_-1&quot;&gt;Halfords&lt;/a&gt; ranges from £699.99-£1,199.99. What makes them so expensive — the dynamo, battery, or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="7252" LastEditDate="2013-06-19T03:27:18.877" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T23:37:47.093" Title="Why are electric bikes so expensive?" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3663" CreationDate="2011-05-08T20:00:43.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say all three, combined with the fact that electric bikes are still somewhat of a niche market with few lowcost players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that a cruiser/comfort frame &lt;em&gt;standard&lt;/em&gt; bike like the ones for sale on the website would cost at £400-500 on their own. The battery (which is expensive for the capacity required to give a decent ride time), the &lt;em&gt;mechanics&lt;/em&gt; especially (the clutch system is complicated and must be robust) all contribute to the production cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given enough demand I could see cheap knockoffs being available for half that price, but unfortunately that isn't the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T20:00:43.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-05-08T22:16:40.320" Score="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Derailleur hanger&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part of the bicycle frame that the rear derailleur bolts into. As in the pictures below, most derailleur hangers are separate pieces of metal, often aluminum, that bolt onto the dropout. These are called replaceable derailleur hangers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WDUxi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Replaceable derailleur hanger&quot; /&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YEipe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;derailleur hanger 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailleur hangers frequently bend slightly if a bike is dropped or crashes, which is especially common off road. This can compromise shifting. The key advantage of a derailleur hanger that is softer than the frame is that in a crash, it will bend and break before the derailleur or the frame. The hanger can then be replaced. Replaceable hangers are proprietary to each frame and tend not to be interchangeable. Manufacturers will usually stock them as replacement parts. The US company &lt;a href=&quot;https://wheelsmfg.com/derailleur-hangers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wheels Manufacturing&lt;/a&gt; makes a wide variety of replacement hangers also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-replaceable derailleur hangers are part of the dropout, as in the picture below. (Note that this bike is set up and singlespeed, with a derailleur in place you would never put the axle this far forward in the dropout)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nzqFs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;derailleur hanger integrated in the frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These hangers are present on some steel and titanium bikes. If the derailleur hanger is bent, it will need to be cold set (i.e. bent) back into alignment. Tool manufacturers make derailleur alignment gauges for this purpose. Steel and titanium hangers can be bent repeatedly. If a non-replaceable derailleur hanger breaks, an experienced welder (preferably a frame builder) will need to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T15:52:37.470" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-08T22:16:40.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3668" CreationDate="2011-05-08T22:33:31.463" Score="5" ViewCount="29237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bent (again) my derailleur hanger. It's a replaceable hanger but for this summer I can't get an original one and I know that the non-original one I can get is made in a harder material and could possibly damage the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm left with the choice of straightening this light aluminium alloy thing. How do I do that without breaking/weakening it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-27T04:44:54.477" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T04:44:54.477" Title="How to straighten a bent derailleur hanger?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-05-08T22:38:07.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had luck by removing the hanger and then using a vise to clamp the whole hanger flat. Whatever you do, remember that you've got one, maybe two shots at it...too many bends and it's gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastEditorUserId="1466" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T00:34:46.047" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T00:34:46.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-05-08T23:05:16.320" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the derailleur and use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drumsanders.net/adjustablewrench18in-pi-9342.html&quot;&gt;adjustable wrench&lt;/a&gt; to bend it back into shape on the bike. That way you can see when it's straight more easily. Remember to check both vertical alignment and fore-aft alignment. With 5/6/7 speed doing this by eye will be fine. You might get good enough for 8 speed, but with 9 and 10 speed you'll have to be lucky to get reliable shifting using this method. Those setups are just too fussy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike shops have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2&quot;&gt;derailleur hanger alignment tool&lt;/a&gt; that does this much more accurately by screwing into the derailleur mounting hole and letting you gauge position against the wheel rim. I've found that with 9 speed often a couple of millimetres at the rim can be the difference between smooth shifting and constant &quot;not quite in gear&quot; clicking in one or two gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: this is a classic &quot;trivial with the right tools, impossible otherwise&quot; job on 9 and 10 speed systems. Put the bike in a mechanics workstand, attach the alignment tool, bend the hanger, reattach the derailleur, check the gears and it's done in 5 minutes. The bike shop will probably want to put in a new gear cable and housing for you (because otherwise if the shifting is less than perfect you might blame them rather than the friction in your old gear cable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fun part, BTW, is finding a replacement hanger if the bike manufacturer no longer stocks them. There are &quot;clone&quot; manufacturers but the catalog of available hangers is huge (often one bike model has different hangers in different years, so unless you know exactly which frame you have the label on the frame might not help much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T00:49:53.620" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T00:49:53.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3670" CreationDate="2011-05-08T23:12:51.197" Score="3" ViewCount="1230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 1980's Bridgestone 700.  I have trouble feeling confident on this bike between the narrow drop bars and the downtube shifter. This is my all-steel commuter and I'd like to put either wider drop bars or possibly even flat bars on it.   The current bars are 25.5mm diameter (hope that's close enough to an inch) by 16 inches wide. The fork/ &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/270#270&quot;&gt;stem&lt;/a&gt; is 22.2mm diameter. My modern road &amp;amp; mountain bike forks and stems make sense to me but this is a whole different era. I'm also thinking of changing the shifters. Everything is Shimano 600 currently.  My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any way to get a modern stem with some rise in it on to this bike &amp;amp; what parts will I need?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I decide to add a more modern shifter/brake combo what should I look for to ensure that the new shifters work with my existing deraileurs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T13:28:37.947" Title="New stem, bars &amp; shifters on old Bridgestone 700" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3669" CreationDate="2011-05-08T23:51:13.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you should be able to get a variety of 22.2mm quill stems. For instance &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/stems-1-%28222mm%29-quill-threaded-dept277/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SJS have a fair selection&lt;/a&gt; (picked because they came up first in a search for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=22.2mm%20quill%20stem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;22.2mm quill stem&lt;/a&gt;, I have no connection with them). 22.2 is a standard size and still common.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it has indexed shifters you should have no problems, but Shimano 600 may not be indexed, and might be 6 speed. In which case you can look for thumbshifters with a friction mode or change the drivetrain. The cost of buying new 7 speed drivetrain parts is enough that I wouldn't suggest it - you'll spend a fair chunk of the cost a new cheap bike doing it. If there's a bike recycling group or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brisbane.qld.gov.au/environment-waste/rubbish-tips-collections/brisbane-tip-shop/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tip&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://outlookmarket.org.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shop&lt;/a&gt; in your area you should be able to avoid spending most of the money - old bikes with 7 speed indexed gears are pretty common.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T23:51:13.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3585" CreationDate="2011-05-09T06:35:49.347" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a solution that actually worked very well -- and during our testing it appears safe to use, seemingly also in the event of an accident. (If you disagree, &lt;em&gt;please&lt;/em&gt; explain why!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we did was to loop a thick soft &lt;strong&gt;rubber band around the helmet's headband, and then secure the other end of the rubber band to the seatback&lt;/strong&gt; using a bit of string through one of the shoulder-strap openings, to achieve a horizontal pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier, we tried looping the rubber band through one of the helmet's air vents, but this caused problems: pulling the helmet back towards the neck revealing the forehead, and potentially putting upwards pressure on the chin strap. Evidently, the helmet's &lt;em&gt;shell&lt;/em&gt; should be left alone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaching the rubber band to the helmet's &lt;em&gt;headband&lt;/em&gt; was much better. As you can see from the photo, it provides a very &lt;strong&gt;level pull&lt;/strong&gt; (not angled) in the perfectly opposite direction of the force of the falling head. The length of the rubber band also allows sufficient &lt;strong&gt;freedom of movement&lt;/strong&gt; so it doesn't restrict the child when he's awake. Since the headband is already designed to &lt;strong&gt;spread the pressure&lt;/strong&gt; evenly around the head, it also appeared to comfortably spread the &quot;hold-back force&quot; &lt;sup&gt;(feel free to edit my lacking English)&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AsYeG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;using a rubber band on the helmet&amp;#39;s headband&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="275" LastEditorUserId="275" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T13:13:43.080" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T13:13:43.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-05-09T08:51:35.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Video &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikezona.tv/index.php?idpelicula=1098&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; shows how to do that using appropriate tools and just a simple hex key. The video is in Spanish but images are pretty much descriptive. Note the video has 2 parts. Second one starts automatically after the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T08:51:35.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:29:07.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A caveat... Aluminum is very susceptible to &quot;work hardening&quot;.  Some alloys are softer than others, and you may get away with it OK.  I have done it on one of the department bikes... So far so good.&#xA;However, there's always the danger the thing will just let go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better to replace if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T14:29:07.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3669" CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:33:10.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an outfit that makes a device allowing you to mount conventional friction-shifters up on the handlebars... I'll see if I can find the link.   I have been using downtube-mounted friction shifters for many years, second nature to me.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They are very forgiving as to what gears your running... I took my 5-speed freewheel up to an 8-speed freehub without changing any of the shifter parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop bars (standard roadster bars) are available in many different widths, depths, and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T14:33:10.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3653" CreationDate="2011-05-09T19:44:47.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others suggest the main question is road vs. trail, thus I am introducing the idea of a cyclocross bike...there many advantages and trade offs, but it something worth investigating. It may get you enough of both worlds! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T19:44:47.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3714" CreationDate="2011-05-09T20:06:13.763" Score="1" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with tires for these rims? I've been looking at tubulars, and many of them (especially track versions) are listed as being 27x3/4 or 27x1, as opposed to 700x19 and 700x22. Specifically, I'm looking at picking up a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/race/tubulartrack/tempo/tempo_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Continental Tempos&lt;/a&gt; but am unsure if the sizing is correct. Is this simply a case of labeling inconsistency, or will the tires not fit my rims?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T19:18:25.683" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T19:18:25.683" Title="Easton EC90 TKO wheels, tire options" Tags="&lt;27-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-10T02:23:53.393" Score="3" ViewCount="5721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find a Norco catalog from 198X?  I bought a used Norco about 10 months ago and I am begining to get curious about the bike.  How good of bike is it?  How much did it cost new?  Where was it made?  Etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know where I can find an older, 1980s, Norco catalog?  Are there other resources that I could use to find out about my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Meta: I don't think that I can post a picture of my bike here and ask for information on it can I?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T20:30:36.447" Title="Finding the history of my 1980s Norco Bike" Tags="&lt;history&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3679" CreationDate="2011-05-10T02:39:10.753" Score="4" ViewCount="2800" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year I bought myself a used (although almost never ridden) road bike from around 1985.  I love the bike.  It is reasonably light and I love the diamond geometry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend wants to get a used road bike but we are having a hard time finding anything on Craigslist, Kijiji, etc.  I think that this is mostly because of her height.  She is about 5'2'' so I think that she would ride something like an 18'' (46 cm) frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have thought about looking at bikes with low top tubes or mixte but I think that they are heavier and more flexible than diamond shaped bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is what I am looking for: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 18'' inch frame (give or take)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A diamond shaped frame (lighter, less flex)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used ideally from the 80s or 90s so that the bike is under $300 for a reasonably well made bike.  (A newer bike would be great as well however I think that it would be out of the price range).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road frame with drop bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this bike exist?  If so why can't I find any online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T16:33:57.007" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T16:33:57.007" Title="Finding a road bike for 5'2'' girlfriend" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3678" CreationDate="2011-05-10T03:21:30.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given your budget I think you are limited to second hand of the age you mention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the 80's and 90's bikes were generally steel and only in the late 90's did aluminium wheels really become reliable. So most of the surviving bikes from that period are pretty low quality. By asking for a decent one by todays standards you're pushing the original price up, and looking at a racing bike rather than a mass market bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even today, most racing bikes are for adults, and adults who are tall. Back then road bikes tended to be taller than they are today as well - one side effect of the improvement in materials has been the ability to reduce frame sizes without compromising strength. So a small frame by todays standards would have been considered very small 20 years ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I look around right now for a light, fast second hand bike for someone under 160cm tall those are hard to find. Sure, you can buy new ones, but they're usually owned by competitive riders and passed down the family or friendship trees until they are worn out. At cycle clubs they do come up, but there's usually a kind of waiting list formed by parents having a word with whoever owns the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back when those bikes weren't as cheap and there were fewer of them that effect was more pronounced. Imagine they started at, say, $3000 instead of $1000 new today. That's the effect. So when people did have one, every kid in the club who was at all promising got to ride that bike. By the time it was retired it was pretty conclusively ridden into the ground. If you find it second hand now it'll be ready to be restored for display, not riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I suggest doing is buying a cheap, heavy second hand kids bike while you save and search. It is just patience and putting up want ads. I mean paper ones - print out a few and put them up in bike shops and velodromes. You need to jog someone's memory rather than finding someone who is looking for you. Also, watch for end of season sales at the bigger shops. Bike shops don't usually stock the small sizes because they don't sell. But if there is one, it probably won't have sold, so it'll be in the sale. You might get a new &quot;last season&quot; bike for half price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-10T03:28:28.097" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T03:28:28.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3678" CreationDate="2011-05-10T03:27:27.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife is 5'2&quot; also and found a decent road bike (aluminum frame, cheap carbon fork, cheater brakes, Shimano 105 group) online.  The bike she bought is indeed 46cm with 650c wheels and fits her really well. It was about $500 new from one of those cheap places I'm embarrassed to mention where you have to tune it up and put the bars and brakes on yourself. You won't get much cheaper than that new but these bikes do exist.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend setting up an RSS alert on Craigslist for &quot;650c&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T03:27:27.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3678" CreationDate="2011-05-10T03:32:46.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm answering the unasked question: &quot;How do I find a hard-to-find bike?&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly this bike exists, but you may have to stick with your search for some time before finding it. (I sympathize with the situation. I take a 19&quot; frame in mens, and most bikes are too large for me.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mens' bikes often have a reach that's a bit too long, and handlebars that's a bit too wide for ladies. (Not always, depends on your girlfriend's dimensions.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some general thoughts: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work with your bike shop. They may have something in stock, but more importantly, a good shop will keep an ear to the ground for you. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try a bike co-op. You may find a used frame inexpensively, or even maybe a complete bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep searching on Craigslist and Ebay. Learn what frames and bikes you're looking for; on Craigslist in particular, sellers often think that bikes only come in the sizes &quot;kids&quot;, &quot;boys&quot; and &quot;girls&quot;, and don't list the frame sizes. If you find out what bikes came in the sizes you want, you can at least target your searches better. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have a bike club? Spend time on bikeforums? Subscribe to any mailing lists for bikes? Spread the word! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did I mention to work with your bike shop? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stick with it. Keep searching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not willing to wait, you'll have to either adjust your budget or your expectations. But don't lose hope; the right bike is out there somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T03:32:46.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3685" CreationDate="2011-05-10T06:54:15.107" Score="13" ViewCount="1600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merida-bikes.com/en_gb/bike/2011/50/MTB+Hardtail/MATTS+40-D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Merida Matts 40-D&lt;/a&gt; bicycle. I didn't buy it for extreme sports, rather for a recreational cycling, etc, but as I'm only 22 years old, it's too tempting to jump down from small stairs when riding through the city. Let's say the height to jump is less than 1 meter and my weight is 74 kg (162 lbs). Can I use this bicycle for such, once in a while, or should I not? I don't want to break it, nor destroy the wheels, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; To further clarify what I mean, I made this simple scheme:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SkZE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Jump scheme&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, I never hit the stairs, just the ground when landing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="1458" LastEditDate="2011-05-10T07:33:43.213" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T10:22:54.750" Title="Can I jump from small heights on my bicycle?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3682" CreationDate="2011-05-10T07:03:18.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bike such as that one should be able to take drops of that kind with no problem. The only issue I see is that your rear-wheel might take a beating if you land on a sharp edge such as the edge of a sidewalk. Your front-wheel has springs, so no problem there. It will deteriorate a bit faster of course, depending on how often you do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T07:03:18.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3682" CreationDate="2011-05-10T08:07:32.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an old guy, 54. Totally, pre-suspension. I went up/down staircases on a bike like yours. Did some jumping. Switched to a road bike mainly for fast cycling. The jumping got old. I like speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T08:07:32.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3682" CreationDate="2011-05-10T08:24:14.410" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike is designed for riding on rough terrain, like forest trails, roots, take an occasional drop. It should not break after a few drops from low heights, if you apply the technique correctly. Of course, it will shorten its life, so if it becomes regular practice, you should switch your bike from entry level MTB to something more appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find stickers on your bike that it is not designed for racing, but just recreation usage. This may put limitations on warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T08:24:14.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3682" CreationDate="2011-05-10T13:01:47.193" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That bike should be able to take small jumps like that without much problem but there is always a risk that you will break something (including yourself).  Under most circumstances you should break relatively replaceable parts first.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest risk as you suggest is to the wheels. If the tires are not inflated enough this is a good way to get a pinch-flat (where the tube gets pinched between the tire and rim as the tire compresses - it will look like a snake bite).  You can also knock the rims out of true if you don't have proper spoke tension.  But again these are pretty minor issues that any regular cyclist will have to deal with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Papuass suggests, technique is important.  The key is to let your body ease the bike onto the ground.  You can diffuse much of the force with good technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you want to land just a hair back so that your rear wheel connects first but only just before the front wheel (so that the front wheel doesn't come slamming down).  Extend the bike toward the ground with your arms and legs (but don't lock your joints).  Use the flexing of your arms and legs to absorb the force of the landing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to good technique is to start small and work your way up to bigger drops.  If you feel out of control when you land and the bike feels like it is slamming into the ground you should go for a smaller hits until you have the technique.  With good technique you can drop this thing off of whatever you want (within reason of course) with little risk to the bike or you - but not none :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1470" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T13:01:47.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3663" CreationDate="2011-05-10T13:59:41.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3663/why-are-electric-bikes-so-expensive/3664#3664&quot;&gt;the answer&lt;/a&gt; given by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/678/crasic&quot;&gt;user crasic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the battery. The battery used by an electric bike has to be lightweight, compact, durable and be able to provide high power output - exactly the same as with power tools batteries. Please resist temptation to compare it with cheaper DIY tools - the latter are nowhere near the reliability requirements you would naturally put on an electric bike and such comparison would be meaningless. If you visit just about any professional power tools outlet you'll see that battery powered power tools are relatively very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then goes the motor. It must be compact, lightweight, durable and provide high torque for long periods. Again, the same as for many professional power tools. Guess how this affects the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then comes the stuff needed to control the motor - controller, switches, etc. It must be very reliable - the same as with primitive (compared to a laptop) yet powerful electronics used to control a power tool with the same influence on price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, they are not yet very popular, so the price is rather high because of small production volumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you shouldn't expect cheap high quality electric bikes any sooner than cheap high quality professional power tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T13:59:41.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3693" CreationDate="2011-05-10T14:31:31.850" Score="1" ViewCount="1754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to build up a frame (Motobecane Fantom CX) with cantilevers and drop bars. I plan to use my old Campy 9-speed levers. Obviously, those levers don't have any way of adjusting the cable length - so I'll have to add some way to adjust it. I know I can buy a front cable hanger with an adjusting barrel, so that takes care of the front. It's the rear that I can't figure out: this frame already has a cable stop for the rear brake, so I don't think I even have the option of installing one of those adjustable hangers on the seat bolt. I think what I need is some sort of adjusting barrel that can fit into the existing cable stop - does such a thing exist? If not, how can I make one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRSkq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastEditorUserId="1338" LastEditDate="2011-05-11T16:03:40.107" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T03:40:55.557" Title="Cantilever cable adjustment device" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3690" CreationDate="2011-05-10T14:36:51.963" Score="4" ViewCount="1415" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience riding a bicycle the fact that a bicycle has two wheels makes it rather easy to ride over minor obstacles like minor cracks in the road. Segway also looks promising in this aspect although it's rider's guide is full of &quot;don't do this [usually refers to trying to ride over an obstacle in wrong way] otherwise your Segway looses grip of the terrain and you fall big time&quot; phrases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now a unicycle has only one very tiny spot of contact with the road. How does one ride over obstacles on a unicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T22:11:15.903" Title="How practical is an unicycle on uneven surfaces?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;unicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3689" CreationDate="2011-05-10T14:52:55.730" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose one could legitimately ask how &quot;practical&quot; a unicycle is, since only a very small number of people can be said to have actually mastered riding the things....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have seen folks with amazing skill, and even off-road unicycles equipped with knobby tires...The riders negotiating rocks, logs, and typical off-road obstacles.&#xA;So...Rider skill obviously a big part of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the unicycle in motion would be reasonably stable over most &quot;pavement&quot;-type obstacles; cracks, seams, that sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T14:52:55.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3689" CreationDate="2011-05-10T14:56:29.303" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the word &quot;practical&quot; ever enters your vocabulary, then you really have no business messing around with unicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unicycling over rough terrain &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gm8QU-eKrLA&quot;&gt;can definitely be done,&lt;/a&gt; but it ain't easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T14:56:29.303" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3688" CreationDate="2011-05-10T14:57:11.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try haunting established bike shops for their &quot;old parts&quot; boxes... Most have 'em....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I have seen the sort of device you would need; essentially an adjusting barrel with a knurled ring around the outside that would allow the threaded portion to just slide into the frame boss.&#xA;If not the dedicated part, perhaps you could incorporate the adjuster mechanism for a rear DR?  They would be about the right size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with the cantis, I know some folks still like 'em, but I was glad to wave by-by.  The pads did last a long time....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T14:57:11.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3688" CreationDate="2011-05-10T15:10:16.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get in-line cable housing adjusters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;A pair is listed on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/cable-hardware-brake.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/cable-hardware-brake.html&lt;/a&gt;, part CAH32. I think those are made by jagwire, and they should be available at virtually any bike shop.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: those inline adjusters are for derailleur cables only. Use this &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/qbp-mickey-cable-barrel-adjuster-1061.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://harriscyclery.net/product/qbp-mickey-cable-barrel-adjuster-1061.htm&lt;/a&gt; for brake cables. It goes in the cable stop. Being a QBP product, you should also be able to obtain those at virtually any local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T15:10:16.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3677" CreationDate="2011-05-10T15:46:32.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Norco is still around. You could probably start by getting in touch with someone there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.norco.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.norco.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T15:46:32.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3678" CreationDate="2011-05-10T17:57:04.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, I have the opposite problem - most bikes are too small for me. All it means is that you have to look a little harder. 46 cm road frames aren't &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; exotic. Just be glad you're not &lt;a href=&quot;http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_jaawLzKLk7g/R_BbnTuCG-I/AAAAAAAAAyw/CnFoJUafb30/s1600-h/xN66_MingBike.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this guy.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that most bike components are not size-specific. The hard part for you will be finding a frame that fits. Consider buying a bare frame, or a bike that has the right  frame but doesn't &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; meet your needs, and putting on your own components. I've bought a couple of used frames on Ebay - you might want to check there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T17:57:04.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3682" CreationDate="2011-05-10T19:43:33.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone must start somewhere with every hobby, right?  Maybe this isn't the perfect bike for street-acrobatics, but it's not a bad place to start--to begin to get the technique that the other answerers are describing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride this one and know that with every drop, you're both shortening the bike's life and increasing your level of experience.  Everything has a price, eh?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike that is never ridden but safely stored will last a very long time.  A bike that is well maintained but ridden aggressively will only last a few seasons on rough terrain (I weigh over 200#).  It's a tradeoff that we have to make--but it is important to do so conciously, to avoid wasting a perfectly good bike on a move that won't teach you anything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're riding, start saving up for the purpose-built-machine:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inspiredbicycles.com/inspired_fourplay_team_bike_p24.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.inspiredbicycles.com/inspired_fourplay_team_bike_p24.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T19:43:33.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3677" CreationDate="2011-05-10T20:22:29.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Norco and Nishiki of this era were really the same bike. The company that imported them in the U.S. and Canada did so under two different names so that they could manipulate the market more effectively.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of these frames were manufactured by Kawamura of Japan.  The serial numbering schema has been worked out by some bicycle geeks.  If you can find the serial number on your bike (usually stamped on the bottom bracket housing or sometimes on the chainstay), this might be helpful:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/390318-Nishiki-Serial-Number-Database?highlight=nishiki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/390318-Nishiki-Serial-Number-Database?highlight=nishiki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the numbers make no sense whatsoever, it's because not all of these bikes were manufactured by Kawamura.  A large number were, though, so I offer the link!  Good luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-11T03:32:12.333" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T03:32:12.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3987" CreationDate="2011-05-11T09:49:33.023" Score="6" ViewCount="1989" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between gloves and track mitts? (other than the obvious lack of covered fingers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2011-06-02T20:16:09.393" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T20:16:09.393" Title="Should I use gloves or track mitts?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;gloves&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3682" CreationDate="2011-05-11T10:22:54.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember snapping a BMX frame from a big name BMX company, that had ads of pros doing massive grinds down handrails, flips over dirt jumps, etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It snapped only 3mths after buying, and I was refused a replacement due to the warranty small print stating that if it had been used to ride off a kerb was considered misuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short theres two main factors that will help you from avoiding damage to the bike when doing drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dsAKW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest way to 'counteract' gravity, is increase your forward motion speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sucking up the impact with your body&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Biggest mistake people make on jumps or drops is letting the fear kick in and going all rigid.  This leads to the impact being taken out on your knees/ankles/wrists/frame &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to use your own body to counteract the fall.&#xA;i.e. Suck up the impact with your knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T10:22:54.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-11T11:28:54.527" Score="1" ViewCount="8020" Body="&lt;p&gt;The derailleur on my sons mountain bike is mangled, how do I know what to replace it with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand they aren't one size fits all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 6 sprockets on the rear cassette and 3 on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1472" LastEditorUserId="2331" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T16:35:19.520" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T16:35:19.520" Title="How do I know which derailleur I need?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3700" CreationDate="2011-05-11T12:35:19.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two kinds of derailers on bicycles, rear and front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with the front derailer, since it has 3 gears you want to find one that is beefy. What do I mean by that? It must have a lot of groves to move the chain from side to side. If you look at a 2 chain ring and a 3 chain ring derailer you will notice that the former is has a smoother surface to its design. This is because it needs to move the chain less then the 3 chain ring derailer. If you still have the old derailer see if you can find one that matches the size, and if you are fitting it yourself make sure that it has just enough clearance to clear the largest chain ring. As if you have too much clearance the bike will not shift properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rear derailer it is a little trickier. Using the old one as your model you want to find a derailer that is about the same size and bends the same way. By bends I mean the amount the derailer stretches out should be consistent with your old derailer as your chain is measured to a certain length and if you get a derailer that has too little bend you could have to adjust your chain length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you want to find parts that model the parts you already have; except not broken of course. If you are not confident in picking out the parts yourself a local bike shop will always be glad to assist you in selecting parts even if you want to do the work yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-11T23:35:30.203" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T23:35:30.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3710" CreationDate="2011-05-11T12:44:22.283" Score="7" ViewCount="3428" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a while now I have been trying to find the perfect bike. One that is fast and allows me to ride 20 mph for 50 mi. One that I can load stuff on and has braze-ons for racks, fenders, etc. A bike that does not punish you for riding more then 40 mi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is does this bike exist? Is there a bike out there that will suit all of my needs or will I need multiple bikes for every occasion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T21:22:51.203" Title="Is my dream of finding a light/commuter/hauling bike a pipe dream?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3698" CreationDate="2011-05-11T12:53:44.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference between full-fingered gloves and track mitts, besides for the obvious fingerless part, is that with the mitts you have the added advantage of material that flicks sweat off your hands giving you a more comfortable ride. Additionally for both, different gloves come with padding or gel that takes some of the pressure off of your hands to give you a more comfortable ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would not ride without them. They make you able to ride long distances because they take one more thing off of your mind while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T12:53:44.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-11T13:32:31.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many variables that factor into answering this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical condition of the bike &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road conditions &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rider's sense of acceptable risk &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Factors beyond your control like inattentive motorists or other cyclists not expecting a fast bike &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legal speed limits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently topped out at 49mph going down a hill on a loaded touring bike.  During the entire run, I was continually thinking &quot;what if...&quot;   What if I hit a stick or pothole?  What if a car pulls onto the road?  What if my wheels start to wobble?  If you can't answer the questions, slow down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also learned something about wheels at high speed.  On another downhill run, I hit a pothole and my wheel was jarred out of balance.  The entire bike began shaking and i had to execute an emergency stop.  Inspection revealed no damage and when I continued downhill at a slower speed, the wheel was perfectly true again.  If a wheel is momentarily knocked out-of-true at high speed, centrifugal force will hold the wheel out of balance until you slow down and then will often return to its original dimensions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1474" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T13:32:31.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-11T14:06:04.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering the recent death on a descent at the Tour of Italy, the consequences of misjudging the safe speed are severe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best to go rather slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to keep my descending speed below 20mph on public roads. (Yes, I can do 40+ on those descents, but there are side streets and driveways and some debris. Stopping distances are longer than on the flat at 25+.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1475" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T14:06:04.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3700" CreationDate="2011-05-11T14:10:46.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a six-speed rear cogset the bike is either inexpensive or seriously old; such things have long since been replaced by 7-8-9 or 10-speed gearsets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, the important thing with a rear DR is &quot;capacity&quot;.  It must have sufficient arm length to handle the range of gears on the cassette or freewheel.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Most all DRs have sufficient side-to-side movement, so the factor you're looking for is the length of the &quot;arm&quot; with the two rollers on it.&#xA;Longer arm, more capacity.&#xA;If you look at high-end road bikes with very &quot;close&quot; gearsets, you'll see the arm is very short.   Look at mountain bikes which have great big low gears, and you'll see longer ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also... Cheaper DRs such as found on many &quot;box-store&quot; import bikes often mount on a steel piece that is bolted into the dropout. (where the axle goes) &#xA;Better DRs mount on a &quot;hanger&quot; which is often replaceable; these may have a different mounting screw. &#xA;Just take the old one with you to the bike shop and they should be able to find a good replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T14:10:46.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3700" CreationDate="2011-05-11T15:09:26.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the gearing indexed? That is, when you turn the shifter, does it click into place? Or does it turn smoothly? If it is indexed, that will further limit your choices. It might help if you post a picture of the shifter and the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's article&lt;/a&gt; on gears and derailleurs. It might answer some of your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T15:09:26.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3702" CreationDate="2011-05-11T16:12:01.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long distance? Carrying stuff? Speed? It sounds like you are describing a Touring Bike. I know that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker_complete/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Long Haul Trucker&lt;/a&gt; is a popular model, but just searching for &quot;Touring Bike&quot; should give you a number of different options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T16:12:01.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3702" CreationDate="2011-05-11T16:15:43.477" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that it is generally true that any &quot;all-purpose&quot; tool is less-than-ideal for most purposes.  There are trade-offs for everything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just looking for a bike that allows you to ride fast and long while carrying a load, though, I think you are looking for a light touring bike.  Get something with drop-bars and road-y geometry.  Get a comfortable saddle for it--maybe  Brooks B17.  It will go reasonably fast (not racing-bike fast, but certainly faster than &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/l1PoL0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my Globe Vienna&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I am not following my own advice--I am doing what you suggest on a mid-80's Schwinn steel road bike.  I have racks and fenders on it.  It goes not-as-fast as my racing bike but fast enough for sure.  When I routinely carry lots of heavy loads on it, I start breaking spokes but that's the wheel's fault and not the frame.  The old steel Schwinns really do never break--if you put the right components on them, they will haul anything you want.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point I may replace the Schwinn with something more modern.  After all, I'm running it with old 105 gear and down-tube shifters.  Generally fine, but when I can afford it I'll upgrade.  My Vienna has started to spoil me, with its IGH and shiny paint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your position, I might consider a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.civiacycles.com/bikes/bryant/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Civia Bryant&lt;/a&gt;.  Go with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatescarbondrive.com/Products/OVERVIEW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;belt-drive option&lt;/a&gt;.  It can haul a load, go fast, seems comfortable (having only looked at the geometry), and is low-maintenance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastEditorUserId="17048" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T11:05:04.430" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T11:05:04.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3702" CreationDate="2011-05-11T17:07:19.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lucked out and purchased this exact bike off Craigslist from the man who built it. It wasn't necessarily cheap, but considering it's done the job of three bikes, I've felt exceedingly lucky to have found it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.surlybikes.com/frames/pacer_frame/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Pacer&lt;/a&gt; frame, full Ultegra 9-speed grouppo, and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/en/Shop_ProductPage.aspx?cat=saddles+-+touring+%26+trekking&amp;amp;prod=B17+Standard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brooks B17 Standard&lt;/a&gt; saddle. I use 700x28c &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.panaracer.com/urban.php#ribmo_pt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panaracer Ribmo&lt;/a&gt; tires which have lasted for 3,800mi (6,100km) without a single flat. I can and have attached fenders to it (even on tire sizes up to 32c, I believe), although I leave the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/697808/sks-race-blade-fender-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Race Blades&lt;/a&gt; off unless it's raining. The only thing I needed to do to add a rack was to buy a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecommuters.com/2008/07/19/p-clamps-are-your-friends/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;P clamps&lt;/a&gt;, since it doesn't have a pair of braze-on eyelets on the seat stays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike clocks in a bit heavy at 30lb (13.6kg), but I have no problem keeping up with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailymile.com/people/stouset/entries/6662286&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Faster Mustache Road Ride&lt;/a&gt; (30mi [48km], 17mph [27km/h] avg, 3,100ft [950m] of climbing) and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikely.com/maps/bike-path/Airport-Ride-Aurora-Cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Airport Ride&lt;/a&gt; (50mi [80km], 25mph [40km/h], no climbing). It took my wife and I through 500 miles of touring from Amsterdam to Paris without the slightest problem, outfitted with a rack and two heavy panniers. And I commute on it daily on the poorly-maintained and pothole-stricken streets of Atlanta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T22:41:40.620" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T22:41:40.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3702" CreationDate="2011-05-11T17:31:57.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A touring road bike or, better, a cyclocross or light touring bike is probably going to meet your needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that riding 50 miles in 2.5 hours will be unreasonable on any bike without a tremendous level of fitness. As folks say, it's more about the engine, than the bike! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of finding a fast bike that will haul stuff well, consider getting a fast road bike and a trailer. You'll then have a bike unencumbered by racks that you can use to haul a trailer. There are still questions of the proper drivetrain configuration here -- I'd avoid a delicate 9-speed drivetrain, for example. You can also attach a seatpost rack for commuting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T17:31:57.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3698" CreationDate="2011-05-11T18:02:17.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit: Track mitts have a very different fit around the palm because the cut does not have to take care of finger length, especially the change of finger length when bending the fingers.You will notice mitts fit snug around the circumference of the palm. This allows to use different materials, which do a better job of protecting the palm from chafing or road rash. Gloves need room at the back of the palm to accommodate the pull of material around the knuckles of bent fingers. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, track mitts have a much better feel on the palm, even with a comparatively stiffer material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection: Track mitts only offer protection from controlled crashes where you land on your palms. Mountain bike gloves are made to protect the outside of the hand, particularly the knuckles. The gain in protection is well worth the downsides in fit and chafe protection. Additionally, rides where you need protection of your knuckles are not as long usually. (Mmmhhhh 100km downhill!). Btw, historically, track mitts started as breaking gloves. 100 years ago, they used to brake with the leather palm. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have winter gloves that are made specifically for bicycling, and they do a good job of warming the hand. But the more elastic material on the palm shifts all over the place on long ride, despite the seemingly snug fit of the gloves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, I once had some particularly comfortable track mitts that completely failed in the protection department, on a crash the palm material just peeled away from the palm. Go leather, I say. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T18:02:17.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3676" CreationDate="2011-05-11T18:33:31.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer my own question, I purchased the tires. It's simply a case of inconsistent labeling. The 27x1 tires are effectively 700x22.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T18:33:31.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3570" CreationDate="2011-05-11T20:46:56.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about $5 for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CM306B01-Progold+Prolink+Chain+Squeeze+Bottle.aspx?sc=FRGL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bottle of chain lube&lt;/a&gt; and $10 for &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000WYANAG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a tube of grease&lt;/a&gt;. Those are top-of-the-line lubricants and will last you for months of frequent application. There is absolutely zero reason why you should jeopardize the lifespan of your bicycle by coating it with food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-05-12T12:55:33.823" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T12:55:33.823" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3579" CreationDate="2011-05-11T22:23:32.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used GT85 on chains and general bike use for years. Unlike WD40 it is loaded with PTFE (Teflon) so does have some lubrication properties but they are very small. As far as I'm aware it should be treated like WD40 primarily as a water dispersant after cleaning or wet weather riding. I always supplement it with proper chain lube (either dry or wet depending on the bike and conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="147" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T22:23:32.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-12T02:11:54.063" Score="22" ViewCount="1377" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is forecast to rain this weekend so I was thinking I would drop a tarp down over my living room floor and give my bikes a bit of a tune up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What maintenance needs to be done on your bike?  How often?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking I am of the mind: &quot;If it is not broken don't fix it&quot;.  However I recognize that there are preventative measures that I can take that will drastically improve the life of my bike and the expense of repairing it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pretty good at noticing when something changes on my bike.  (For example: something is making a slightly different noise, something is not spinning well, etc).  One think that I am concerned about however is when something gradually gets worse in increments that are not noticeable.  For example you forget to oil part X and it gets increasingly noisier or harder to spin etc.  I am concerned that I would not notice it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to do my own work when possible but I will bring the bike in for work when necessary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Answer Structure&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best answer will have this format: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Daily&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this thing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this other thing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Weekly&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bla&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Monthly&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Yearly&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally the bullets should be sorted by importance.  Importance is defined by expense.  If you don't do this thing then it will cost you $X.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not necessary to provide a description for each procedure as we can open additional questions for each of those procedures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Similar Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2781/how-much-maintenance&quot;&gt;How much maintenance?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Addresses how much maintenance a bike needs but does not lay out a clear schedule&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1429/winter-maintenance&quot;&gt;Winter maintenance?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What to do before putting your bike in storage for winter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/210/where-to-find-good-bicycle-maintenance-info&quot;&gt;Where to find good bicycle maintenance info?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/164/basic-toolkit-for-bicycle-maintenance&quot;&gt;Basic toolkit for bicycle maintenance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit (To get the bounty)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am looking for is in terms of the Monthly/Yearly sections is what a bike shop would do during their yearly tune ups.  I do most of my own repairs/work and I want to make sure that I am not missing anything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T08:21:33.317" Title="Optimal Maintenance Schedule" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2011-05-12T02:52:13.387" Score="17" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Daily: check the tyres and chain. If you need air or lube, apply them. This really falls under the &quot;when riding, be aware of your bike&quot;. Rather than thumb-test my tyres I look at the bulge in the sidewall when I'm riding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weekly: pump the tyres, lube the chain. Regardless of whether they &quot;need it&quot;, I'll put the pump on and check the pressure, then use a bit of lube on the chain. Swap rechargeable batteries in my bike lights (LED lights use so little current that it's easy to overdischarge batteries, and weekly is about as long as I can space this before I forget. Otherwise I think &quot;did I do this last week? Probably&quot;). Also pick the broken glass out of your tyres. An old spoke, sharpened at one end and bent into a handle at the other works well for this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Monthly: fix the niggling things that aren't really faults that stop the bike working, so I never actually fix them. Lube and adjust the gear cables, adjust the brakes, tighten the mudguard bolts, repair or replace the loose reflective tape. Check brake pads for wear etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;six months/seasonally: make sure the lights are all there and working. Check and lube the shifter on my Rohloff. Check girlfriend's bike and fix anything she hasn't bothered to. On derailleur bike (ick!) check chain wear. Check for frayed gear/brake cables.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;annually: change Rohloff oil.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a whole heap of other stuff that I do when necessary, like putting new tyres on. If I get a puncture on a Marathon Plus I generally replace it, because that only seems to happen when they're quite worn. Lesser tyres I check whan I'm fixing the puncture (since I have to inspect the whole tyre to find the puncturing thing anyway). If shifting gets hard or braking reels funny I check the cables, since a fraying cable is often the cause of those problems. And so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;strong&gt;what would a bike shop do in their checkup&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing is that they are not you so there's a second set of eyes, and partly they have no interest in &quot;oh, that's not right but it's a pain to fix so I'll just live with it&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the mechanic will start with the obvious stuff I listed in my &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3729/how-do-i-evaluate-the-quality-of-a-road-bike/3740#3740&quot;&gt;evaluate a second hand bike&lt;/a&gt;&quot; answer. The mechanic &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; be test riding the bike, so they want to be sure it's safe to do that. And anything that needs fixing, they will note down and either fix or ring you and ask if you want to spend the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably easier to present as a checklist of functions. For each item mentioned there's an implicit &quot;is it there, attached securely, in working order&quot; check as well. This is all done in a proper work stand, with good lighting. Most of the tools are the ones you'll find on a compact multitool (but they're good quality separates). All cable replacements mean replacing the outers as well, and fitting end caps etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;frame and fork. Check the bearings in the headset for slop and the grinding feeling of dirty or overtight bearings (crash damage sometimes comes through there when the bearing races have been pushed out of alignment or the frame is ovalised where it's supposed to hold the bearing race). Look for dents, holes or other frame damage. If in doubt pull out the frame alignment checking tools and go wild.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;wheels. Spin them checking for bearing play and broken/loose spokes. Look for rim wobble too. True wheels if necessary in a proper wheel truing stand (they have to be true so we can set rim brakes later, and they're expensive to replace if they're wrecked which means sometimes the whole job stops here). Check rim and tyre wear and tyre inflation. If the valve is at a funny angle let the air out, straighten it and reinflate. Inflate tyres to marked pressure so later we can check for slow leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;saddle. Tight and in usable condition.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;handlebars. Lots of stuff happens here, but for now just twist against the wheel to make sure the headset and handlebar clamp bolts are tight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;crankset/bb. Spin the pedals by hand and feel for slop/grinding. Check pedal bearings too. Eyeball frame clearance (is the BB the right length, are the cranks bent?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;gears. Change through all gears. Check shifters and cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace cables and outers if there's any suggestion that this might become necessary in the next year. Poor cables means poor shifting and customers hate that. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pop cables out of the frame, slide the segments of outer along so you inspect the cable and at the same time lube the cables with a grease+solvent chain lube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lube the chain. If the chain is filthy or worn (use a chain wear gauge), replace it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New chain means new cassette/freewheel. Eyeball the cassette anyway, if worn replace.&#xA;(Bike shops very rarely clean chains, it costs more than fitting a new one because of the time taken. If it's your bike you aren't paying for the labour so you would clean the chain at this point.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;brakes. All that gear testing means using the brakes. But now: squeeze each brake lever to the handlebars. This should take considerable force. Adjust the brakes so it does, the recheck. New pads and cables if there's any doubt (you'd be surprised how many cables snap at step one). Fine adjust brakes to just barely clear the braking surface. New disk rotor at this point if it's too bent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;mudguards/fenders, racks, lights, soft toys and other accessories. Make sure snything else on the bike is at least properly attached.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;check the tyre pressure. It should still be whatever you inflated them to at the start. If this is your bike the check is unneccessary because you already know there's a slow leak and you will fix it now, won't you?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;put the bike in the &quot;to be test ridden&quot; area for someone else to test ride (I lied above). They will check that the gears and brake work, and that the bike rides ok with no odd noises or anything. Mudguards especially can be a pain here because flimsy ones rub on the wheels at the slightest excuse. But yes, this is where you see the mechanic sprint to 30km/hr then do an emergency stop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are specific checks for other stuff. The rubber pad on the steering arm of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treehugger.com/files/2009/11/bicycle-cargo-chapter-three-extended-frame-bikes.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Long John bikes&lt;/a&gt; gets replaced, roller brakes get greased etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing this at home you will probably need a spoke key to do basic wheel straightening on the bike where a mechanic will use a spoke tensiometer and truing stand. If you're going to send the wheel to a mechanic don't play with the spokes first. That just causes problems because your efforts will make the spoke tension really uneven. Fixing that takes time. You pay for the time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new bottom braket requires a crank puller and the right tool to grip the BB. It's not worth buying these for most people. It the BB has slop just get the shop to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from those two most of the special tools that bike shops have make the job faster, easier and more consistent. You're never going to get &quot;consistent&quot; with one or two bikes, and it's not worth paying for tools you use once a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should take ~30 minutes to check and lube, plus whatever repair time is required. At $100/hour charge-out rare it's $50. If your bike is clean and in good order it'll be significantly faster (5 minutes if there's nothing to do), if you bring in a rusty old &quot;vintage classic&quot; bike from the tip it could take days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T17:35:45.977" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2011-05-12T03:41:54.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many urban/commuter tires have reflective sidewalls.  Next time you're due for a tire change, you might check to see if any of the tires have the reflective stripe.  Someone told me (not sure if it's true) that reflective sidewall tires are required in some European cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. Vitoria Randonneuer&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0028N305O&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Vittoria-Randonneuer-Pro-700x35c-Reflective/dp/B0028N305O&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3M makes some reflective tape that is available in many colors (even black!) to match your bike finish during the day but it reflects bright white at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too use a Dinotte tail light and they are astoundingly bright.  I have found that motorists with eye pain give me lots more room.  The Dinotte lights are stupidly expensive though.  The Planet Bike Superflash is the best inexpensive blinkies I have found.  I put them on my kids' bikes and I can see them two blocks away in broad daylight; &amp;lt; $30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay safe and assume all cars are trying to kill you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1474" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T03:41:54.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3579" CreationDate="2011-05-12T04:50:38.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember a bike magazine in UK recommending GT85 (its a glorified WD40, with the addition of Teflon in it) and they got slammed as the stuff was just not up to scratch, especially for Mountain Bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer to this question would be no, dont use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dont have a source for this, happened about 7yrs ago./&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T04:50:38.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3725" CreationDate="2011-05-12T05:01:41.230" Score="10" ViewCount="53527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of setting up a new drive train.  When using the smaller chainring and smallest sprocket (hence least amount of utilized chain), the chain brushes up against the bottom of the derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I remove a link or two until this no longer happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1480" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T23:40:56.267" Title="Is my chain too long?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3724" CreationDate="2011-05-12T05:23:25.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit: from your photos, yes, the chain is too long. In the large chainring-large cog photo it looks as though the derailleur arm could be pulled forward at least one chain link, possibly two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preferred method of finding chain length is to focus on the largest chainring-largest cog combination. If there's just barely enough chain for that everything will work, although the small-small combo may have a lot of slack. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park have an exhaustive explanation&lt;/a&gt; of various methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much chain is kind of annoying, but too little can break things. Trying to shift into the large-large gear when there's not enough chain will stop your pedals, so there's a lot of force involved. Since you're going into a lower gear at that point, it often happens when you're pedalling hard. Hard enough to snap the chain in some cases. But also to snap the rear derailleur if it can't accomodate the position required, and if you're especially unlucky you might snap off the derailleur hanger as well. This breakage often throws the derailleur into your rear wheel which both breaks spokes and can dump you on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wuMVC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bicycle rear derailleur with chain pulled into a Z shape to show excess&quot;&gt;What I suggest is shifting into the large-large combo and see if there is spare chain. Try pulling a link over itself so there's a wee Z formed in the chain. If you can do that there are extra links. Keep extending the Z until the rear derailleur seems unhappy, counting links. Now remove them. Remember you do need a little slack so you can get out of the gear - you're using the return spring in the rear derailleur to pull the chain off the biggest cog, and if there's too much chain tension it won't be able to do that. But as long as you can get into the gear you won't break anything (you just need to add a link back in, and maybe pull the wheel out to release the tension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ties into the &quot;some gears man was not meant to use&quot; discussion. In cross-over gears are the large-large and small-small ones, so called because the chain crosses over from one side of the crankset to the opposite side of the cassette. This causes extra friction and chain wear, and (almost always) those gears are duplicated elsewhere so there's no need to use them. So not being able to use the small-small combo because of slack chain should not normally be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-12T22:33:22.453" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T22:33:22.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2011-05-12T11:53:35.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of high-end carbon fiber frame with similar geometry = Trek Y Foil. It proved to be unsuccesful design, but low-end bicycle manufacturers copied it anyway (also using cheaper materials and simplified design).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CglyG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2011-05-20T09:31:02.280" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T09:31:02.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3728" CreationDate="2011-05-12T12:19:05.180" Score="8" ViewCount="2649" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of necessity, I had to put an 1.26&quot; (32mm) rear tyre on my bike where the front tyre is only 1.1&quot; (28mm) wide (and the bike came with 1.1&quot; tyres when I bought it). Are there any advantages or disadvantages of this, shall I try to get an 1.1&quot; tyre for the rear wheel ASAP or is it safe this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="482" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T17:42:35.240" Title="Different tyre width (front and back)" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3727" CreationDate="2011-05-12T13:12:06.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should be perfectly safe.  I actually did a similar thing on my road bike to allow a little more cushion in the rear, for my rear.  The only hassle I can see is if you have to carry two different tubes.  Can't remember off the top of my head if you can get some that span those two sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T13:12:06.963" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3740" CreationDate="2011-05-12T13:25:43.110" Score="5" ViewCount="1944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am specifically looking at a Fuji Finest Womans road bike - 51cm.  I am not sure what year it is. The ad description says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Women's specific geometry, 51 cm&#xA;  Shimano Sora, Ritchey stem, Aheadset,&#xA;  pedals with toe cages.  Great shape,&#xA;  smooth and easy-riding bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The asking price is $350 (Canadian).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious about the quality of Fuji road bikes. How do I evaluate the quality of this road bike -- or any road bike for that matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YK6Ku.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="124" LastEditDate="2011-05-12T21:03:24.777" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T22:49:17.477" Title="How do I evaluate the quality of a road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-12T13:29:10.827" Score="11" ViewCount="7591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just shopping for used bikes right now online.  I want to try and save myself a trip to visit the bikes by determining which bikes will fit me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an approximate height-bike size conversion chart or inseam-bike size conversion chart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this will not 100% accurate as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; observes.  I was just hoping to get an approximation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2013-07-13T05:46:29.847" Title="Bike Size to Human Size Conversion Chart" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3730" CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:00:49.063" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO single most important factor of cycling joy is FIT!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a great tool and worth the effort: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&quot;&gt;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used it myself and referred countless folks to it, all with great success! Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T16:00:49.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3730" CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:06:41.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kind of depends what you're looking for.  For classic, straight top-tube roadsters, a good starting point is &quot;standover height&quot;.  You should be able to straddle the top  tube with your feet flat on the ground.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unfortunately, this is not how bikes are normally measured; &quot;frame height&quot; is measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube.&#xA;Go to a bike shop and look around.  Straddle a few bikes and have the friendly shop folks help you get an approximate size.  Then go looking for used....&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Warning... If you are not an experienced cyclist who knows what to look for then buying used can be fraught with problems....&#xA;Also, bear in mind that that straight-top-tube roadster is increasingly a rarity; many manufacturers use a variety of sloping top tubes now which defy measuring in the old-fashioned way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T16:06:41.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3724" CreationDate="2011-05-12T18:16:07.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always, Sheldon Brown has the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;authoritative explanation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The best technique for setting chain length is to thread the chain onto the large/large combination, without running it through the rear derailer. Mesh the two ends on to the large chainwheel so that one complete link (one inch, -- one inner and one outer half-link) overlaps. In almost all cases, this will give the optimum length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Start with the shortest chain that would permit connection, allowing one extra complete link as shown in the photo at the left above, so the bottom of the chain droops if you align it as in the picture at the right. Then thread the chain through the rear derailer and connect it. Turning the crank by hand, check that the chain will shift to the large-large combination using the front derailer or rear derailer, or both at once, without binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Work by shortening the chain, rather than lengthening it. Making the chain too short, then lengthening it is a time-waster. The narrowest chains, used with cassettes that have 10 sprockets -- sometimes 9 -- must be joined using special one-time-use replacement pins or master links. You probably only get one of these with a new chain, so it is important to get the length right on the first try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/chainlength-longer.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;proper chain length&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.527" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T18:16:07.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2011-05-12T18:29:54.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is this company that sells bike powered phone charger kits. The price is very reasonable. I think this one may be suitable for your HTC because my husband has an HTC Incredible. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike2power.com/smartphone-bicycle-charger-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bike2power.com/smartphone-bicycle-charger-kit.html&lt;/a&gt;. Not sure if they would ship to UK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the kit for his b-day because he also complained about the battery life. He uses stats app when he rides, and the battery would be dead in 45 min. I looked at reecharge as well but it was too expensive and kind of complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1483" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T18:29:54.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3729" CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:19:05.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be much of a question here, but I'll bite anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuji makes bicycles comparable to any other large manufacturer. Your concerns when buying a used bicycle should not be about the quality of the manufacturer, but the qualities of the bicycle being purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it in good condition? Has it been well cared for? Are there signs of obvious misuse? Does the bike fit you? Is it suited for your particular needs? Can you find a better bike for a comparable price? Can you find an equivalent bike for a cheaper price?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, we can't answer those questions for you, but they shouldn't be too hard to answer for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T20:19:05.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="128" CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:38:08.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clinchers tires and rims are more convenient in that they can be repaired easily on the road, are cheaper, and have more options available. However, they are heavier, won't stay on your rim at high speeds if you get a flat, and have a higher rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubular tires and rims are more expensive and require a lengthy gluing procedure to replace the tire when it flats. However, they have lower rolling resistance, weigh less, and are potentially safer when going flat at higher speeds (if they have been glued properly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the practicality of clinchers outweighs the benefit of tubulars in all road-racing scenarios short of pro-level racing. One approach to mitigating the downsides of tubulars, however, is to have a set of tubular &quot;race wheels&quot; that you use only on race day, and a set of clincher &quot;training wheels&quot; that you can repair on the fly if you go flat 40 miles from home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one place I think tubular tires still reign, even for amateurs, is at the velodrome. You're never far from a ride back home if you puncture a tire. The opportunity for having a flat is greatly reduced because of the far fewer miles you put on the wheels plus the lack of road debris on the track. And it's far safer to have tubulars in case of a flat, where you can still ride on rubber down to the apron. With a clincher, if you lose the tire, it's easy to fall if you wind up riding on your rim on a 37° banked curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T20:38:08.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3742" CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:28:39.393" Score="2" ViewCount="1853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to ride my mountain bike on roads, but the sound of the mountain tires on the road is annoying. Can I just buy rims that will fit cyclocross or road bike tires? My bike has disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1485" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T00:34:35.473" Title="Are there any cyclocross/road bike rims that I could buy that will fit on my Cannondale F600 mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3729" CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:49:17.477" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand Stephen's answer a little, because there are a couple of really important checks to make. What you're looking for are signs that the bike is being sold because it's not worth fixing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;check the frame and fork for damage. Specifically, if the frame has crash damage it is worthless. Look for slight bends in tubes that should be straight, and for places where the paint has flaked off because a tube is bent. Look at the angle between the front fork and the head tube of the bike, and the gap between the front wheel and down tube. Bikes that have been crashed into something generally bend either the fork or the down tube just behind the head tube. From the picture that bike looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look at the braking surfaces on the rims. If there is a wear line on the rim check that, otherwise run your hand along the rim and feel for a curve (across the short side from the brake pads wearing into it), or a break in the rim. New wheels are expensive, so if the rims are too worn it might not be worth buying the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look at the rest of the bike as Stephen suggests - does everything look ok, do the brakes feel smooth when you test them, is the chain clean, are the tyres in ok condition.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;now ride the bike. Does it shift smoothly but definitely? Does it run quietly in every gear? Does it shift under power? Do the brakes work?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the last points are things you can usually fix easily and cheaply. Which means that if the seller has not done them, it could be because the problems are not cheap. Rather than new gear cables and outers, you might be looking at new shift levers (which are not cheap). I would not bother looking at chain wear because even a new chain and cassette are cheap enough that it won't matter, and expecting the seller to throw out a half-worn set just so you can have new ones is wasteful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you're not sure it is worth while taking it to a bike shop for a check-over and quote for repairs. Offer to pay them a token amount because you're not getting the work done you just want to know what they think. If the seller doesn't want you to do this before you buy, do it immediately after. That way you can (probably) still go back for a refund.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't be scared off by the list of things that might be horribly wrong. Most of us have bought second hand bikes many times and ridden them a lot. It's that 1% chance that you're getting a lemon that we're talking about, not some mythical horde of dodgy dealers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T22:49:17.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3739" CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:57:14.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you mean rims or wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cyclists have a second set of wheels for their bike, because it's a lot cheaper than having a second bike. Buying a set of 26&quot; disk brake wheels with narrow rims and putting slicks on them is a pretty common thing for MTB owners who commute on their bike. You might also choose a slightly higher-geared cassette for the road wheels. You will need a second cassette on the new wheel, and a second pair of disk rotors. Two complete wheels, in other words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about rebuilding your wheels with narrower rims that's expensive and I think pointless - it will not be much cheaper than getting a second set of wheels, and will limit your choice of offroad tyres. You can mount fairly narrow tyres on most MTB rims, especially on newer bikes as there's been a fair bit of work on making fat tyres work on narrow rims, so racing cyclists can have narrower rims (because they're lighter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapest option is to just buy skinny tyres, but that means swapping tyres every time you want to go off road. Which is why many riders buy extra wheels. Another cheap way is to get a second hand road bike (but be aware that that is a slippery slope and many of us have more than two bikes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T00:34:35.473" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T00:34:35.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3739" CreationDate="2011-05-12T23:02:43.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the Cannondale F600 mountain bike has the typical 26&quot; mountain bike tires.  It's very unlikely that the larger diameter (&quot;700c&quot;) rims used on typical cyclocross or road bikes would work well.  There are road bikes with 26&quot; rims, typically made for shorter people (especially women and children), so it would be possible to find rims in that size (but would make more sense to simply buy new wheels than to build wheels with new rims).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can buy smaller, thinner, smoother, higher pressure tires for a 26&quot; rim, and that would solve your problem quite handily.  It would also be much cheaper ($20-$50 per tire) than replacing the rims (or whole wheels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T23:02:43.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3739" CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:12:23.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bike takes 26&quot; wheels, then road/CX wheels won't fit, they're too big. There's also the width of the rear hub; on most mountain bikes it's 135 mm, on road bikes it's 130.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just get some skinny 26&quot; tires, most shops will have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T00:12:23.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3745" CreationDate="2011-05-13T01:35:14.013" Score="7" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ignoring the question of whether or not cyclists should or should not break the law by running red lights, should the law be changed such that cyclists are somehow exempt from stopping and waiting? For example, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/4140910&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Idaho Stop Law&lt;/a&gt; provides that cyclists may effectively treat stop signs as yields and red lights as stop signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has this question been discussed before?  Has there been evidence presented that suggests that this is a good or bad idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this sort of legal change in cyclists' favor? Is it something we should fight for, or will it cause more harm than good? What are the arguments in favor and against such a change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T12:05:04.107" LastActivityDate="2020-12-09T15:47:31.790" Title="Should the laws be amended to allow cyclists to run red lights?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3744" CreationDate="2011-05-13T02:00:48.053" Score="16" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Maybe (or not), at some stop signs: but not at stop lights&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like an opinion question so I'll answer it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it would be okay to allow bicycles to roll through stop signs on residential side streets.  After all, a slowly rolling cyclist is likely more aware of their surroundings than a fully stopped motorist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Busy multi-way stop intersections?  Probably not a good idea.  Here in Ohio at least, motorists have no idea how 4-way stops work.  We cyclists would be killed within a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stop lights, no way.  Stop lights are usually reserved for higher volume roads and treating them as a stop sign would be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all from a safety standpoint.  From a public image standpoint, I think cyclists should obey all traffic regulations to the letter.  I have seen far too many kamikaze cyclists cutting in front of cars, riding on sidewalks and not signalling turns.  That kind of behavior just fuels anti-cycling sentiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists should share the road, not expect special treatment that could promote motorist backlash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1474" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T12:28:46.193" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T12:28:46.193" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3744" CreationDate="2011-05-13T09:11:26.457" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Redesign road intersections instead of making new laws&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most situations where the discussion centres around &quot;there are some examples where cyclists can safely jump a red light&quot; rather than changing the law, often it is an easier to discuss redesigning the road layout, e.g. with slip roads and paths which are not red light controlled, amending a junction to be pedestrian controlled, building a roundabout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing a law, even at a US state level, to allow for special provisions for certain user groups is quite hard, expensive and open to all other groups to pressure for other changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campaigning for redesigning road layouts to be more sympathetic to the different demands of cyclists and to encouraging other less motor-centric forms of transport is still hard, but has some history of success - e.g. search Google for 'copenhagenisation'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T11:58:18.590" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T11:58:18.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3744" CreationDate="2011-05-13T11:51:03.090" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Ensure that semi-actuated traffic lights detect bikes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the under-the-road sensors which detect waiting traffic and control traffic lights have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toronto.ca/cycling/network/actuator.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;had their sensitivity adjusted in order to detect bikes&lt;/a&gt;: at least on bike routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my commute there are I think only two or three intersections where those sensors don't notice me and consequently I might wait 'forever' (or until a car comes along behind/beside me). During the day this doesn't matter (there's enough other traffic to keep tripping the sensors): so I only notice it when I'm on the road alone, at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could get off and press the pedestrian crossing button; but instead I stop (completely), wait until it's safe (no cars within 100m), and then cycle across against the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of traffic light happens where a minor residential street crosses a main road. I don't see how that intersection could be redesigned: without a traffic light, in daytime where there's nearly continuous traffic on the main road, the occasional cars on the smaller road  would never be able to cross the main road. And it wouldn't be worth putting roundabouts there IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T12:01:15.390" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T12:01:15.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3663" CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:48:35.573" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have sold a small quantity of electric bicycles over the years (including one to a 83 year old woman). Were these profitable sales, from the bike-shop's point of view? Not really...   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame + Extras&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost is different to price, clearly the bicycle costs more to build, e.g. in Giant's top-class Taiwan factory on a relatively limited production run. As mentioned in other answers, there is the motor, the batteries and control gear. On top of that there is also a more expensive frame. The frame has more 'braze-ons' to mount the electric running gear. It is also extra tough so that the frame and fork can survive (force = mass x acceleration and an electric bike goes quicker with extra mass). This frame/fork combination is also unique to the electric models whereas, on a normal bike, the frame may be shared across a model range.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As well as the frame/fork being different, the wheels and tyres are up-rated, this may not actually cost that much more rubber and aluminium, however, these parts are model specific, limited run for the manufacturer, possibly specially made by the suppliers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As of yet there are no electric bikes that make use of the frame to carry the battery, typically this has to have a rack and extra packaging to attach it to the bicycle. These parts cost money, again they are also bespoke.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The batteries can use Lithium, NiMh or even lead-acid, clearly with cost differentiation, the Lithium cells costing more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of yet we have not left the factory with our electric bicycle, the extra parts and Far Eastern labour may not actually amount to a lot in absolute terms, however the factory-cost will be a significant multiple of the regular mass-market mountain/hybrid bicycle cost. The parts cost more as does the assembly line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shipping: Weight and size&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we come to ship the electric bicycle half-way around the world, there is approximately twice the cost, whether the shipping is priced by weight or volume. This is because the electric bicycle weighs more and needs a much bigger box (compared to a typical MTB that ships with the bars/front-wheel/seat/pedals removed and no mudguards). Interestingly there is less EU 'anti-dumping' duty on electric bikes than normal ones, so no added cost there (and if you wondered why some bikes come from Macau you now know...). Some money does have to be paid to get the boxes out of Felixstowe, on the back of the lorry and up to the warehouse, again this is slightly more than the regular MTB or hybrid, but not massively so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warehousing margins&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, this is where the costs get interesting. The bike arrives at the wholesaler or distributor and gets put into a warehouse until a retailer orders it. The wholesaler has price tiers for their 'B2B' customers (the shops) and these will be different depending on sales volumes, e.g. the big chain will get an extra 10-20% off the 'trade price' compared to the family-run lower volume shop. Because the product has a list price then this discount is unlikely to be passed on to the end customer, however, it does give the volume retailer that bit more room come end-of-season sales.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notionally the wholesaler/importer/distributor is just importing boxes, putting them in a warehouse and sending them out again. In an ideal world they would charge just a flat fee for this, however, the more expensive boxes tie up more capital, they also tend to linger in the warehouse longer. This means they cannot be marked up by the wholesaler with a 'per box' price. Typically a standard margin is applied to the products, exactly what this margin is may seem high to someone outside of the trade, however, the tax man has a slice of that and some of that margin may be swallowed up by currency fluctuations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expensive, Niche Product&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the retailer buys the electric from the company owning the big warehouse they may be buying just the one - most bicycle shops cannot afford the showroom space or the capital cost to have a range of electric bicycles. For this reason it is unlikely that a good deal is done due to bulk purchasing. The delivery to the bike shop may be relatively expensive too - delivery with all couriers in the UK is by weight. So we have double the cost on this leg of the journey when compared to the regular bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The retailer has what seems a good bit of money to make on the electric bicycle. However, walk-in customers have not arrived for an electric bike, they are there for normal bikes. They may not even be aware that electric bikes are on offer too. Walk-ins just don't ask for an electric bike - customers wanting touring bikes or tandems are rare, customers wanting electric bikes are rarer too for the regular bicycle shop. To change this situation requires promotion, i.e. advertising, a window display and sales staff training. With the exception of retailers that have gone out of their way to push electric bike sales, this does not happen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Training / Support&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as the sales staff having to be able to know how to sell an electric bike the mechanics in the back room have to know how to make them showroom ready. Then, should a sale come along, the bike has to be checked to make it safe. Additionally, the bike will collect quite a bit of dust waiting for a customer and be subjected to test rides by potential customers. This total time will be a lot more than with the regular bike because the electric bike is not so familiar to the workshop team. It is unlikely that this time is costed, however, it all adds up. Hence the eventual sale is unlikely to be discounted (unless the shop is small and desperate for some extra cashflow that week or the model is end of season and needs to be shifted). The taxman also takes his cut, 20% VAT is not a lot of money if buying a 'Bicycle Shaped Object' (cheap bike), but is a lot of money if buying an electric bicycle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Margin Pricing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we work through the above steps starting with one small component, e.g. a washer that costs a penny. Its cost could be ten pence by the time it has been fitted onto the bike, maybe up to twenty pence to get to the warehouse in Milton Keynes. Because of how margin costing works, the washer could then cost forty pence by the time it gets to the showroom. On the face of it, it seems ludicrous that a penny washer now costs forty times as much, however, along the way nobody has been greedy (maybe with the exception of the taxman, but that is government protection rackets for you - lots of wars to pay for).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the maths has been simplified with the 'washer' example, costs go up from component supplier to the cycle manufacturer to the distributor and to the dealer with the maths being multiplication (by a margin) rather than addition (of a handling fee) at most steps. That is how it works.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, to save costs a cheaper washer could be used - one that costs the factory 0.5 pence - and it could be fitted to the bike by someone in mainland China costing less than the Taiwanese worker. The factory too could be cheaper - with less capital tied up in the building/land. This 'cheaper and nastier' product could then enter the supply chain to be marked up with margins at the importer-distributor-wholesaler-retailer steps. Given that the product is not really one that anyone really wants, some incentives exist in the supply chain, e.g. higher margin for the retailer. Hence the 'cheap' electric bike - as sold by certain High Street chains - might be a complete rip-off with the worst components and the fattest of profits for someone in the chain.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might suspect that parts and training would factor into the costs, but it does not do so directly. Sales and workshop staff in the bike shop are unlikely to have had any training on how to look after customers for electric bikes. The spare parts are not likely to be kept in the cycle shop - these will be special order from the wholesaler. The wholesaler will be able to sell these spares profitably and - if they know what they are doing - keep sufficient spare parts stocked appropriate for demand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The price is Actually Reasonable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are a long way off monopoly pricing with electric (and normal) bicycles, due to competition in the marketplace the pricing is nearer 'cost + acceptable profit' rather than 'what the market will tolerate'. Electric bikes are not expensive per se. With the exception of walking (and maybe container freight) there is no cheaper transportation going. Arguably normal pedal cycling is more expensive than electric bike cycling, however, this depends on how you value your time. Electricity to charge and electric bike costs less than a Mars Bar (or other calorific food equivalent).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the showroom electric bikes are somewhat clunky feeling, but once you go on the road with them and put the motor on the bike feels as light as a feather, particularly up hills.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice for getting an electric bike cheaply is to do so through government 'bike to work' scheme. This is where your employer buys the bike and gets the tax back. Effectively you get the bike at 50% retail price, with actual ownership of the bike being between you and your employer. Typically they let you have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="10609" LastEditDate="2014-03-18T10:49:30.293" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T10:49:30.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3730" CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:03:45.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would you buy second hand shoes online, not knowing what shoe size you were, particularly if there is the risk that they might have been stolen?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Probably not, when put like that!&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With footwear you know your size. This is something established last time you bought some shoes, probably in a shoe shop where sales staff assisted you. They might have made you pace about and checked where your big toes were - that kind of stuff. They might have also tried you on the larger - or smaller - sizes to get it right. Although shoe shop sales staff are not rocket scientists, some of them are very good at what they do - find people the right shoes, ones that fit. They might take a dim view of those that insisted on only buying second hand shoes off the internet, without even bothering to know their shoe size.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sure there is probably some chart out there on the internet that you can enter your inseam length into and get some shoe size out, but in taking that approach you may never know what a properly fitting is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are remarkably similar to shoes in that they have to fit YOU. Yes, you can adjust the seat and bars (much like you can adjust the laces on a shoe) but you still need to get the size right in the first place. If you already have a bike, e.g. a 19&quot; frame MTB then you can get another one online of a similar size. But you are not there yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T15:03:45.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2011-05-13T17:28:51.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;The ABC Quick Check &lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;There is only one thing I would add to Moz's answer. I work at a bike rescue and down there we teach people something called the &lt;strong&gt;ABC Quick Check.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A is for Air.&lt;/strong&gt; Check the air in your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B is for Brakes, Bearings.&lt;/strong&gt; Check if the brakes are responsive and in good working order. Make sure the wheel spins okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C is for Crank, Chain.&lt;/strong&gt; Check if there is any play by grabbing the crank arms and moving them side to side. Make sure the chain is properly lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick is for the quick releases on your bike&lt;/strong&gt;. Make sure they are tight enough so that things don't just start falling off on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommended doing this every time you get on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-09-23T20:28:08.247" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T20:28:08.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3727" CreationDate="2011-05-13T17:42:35.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding with a larger tire in the front provides certain advantages. I do this for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less slipping and sliding in the snow: With a bigger tire in the front you get more friction with the ground. This is important because your front tire is a lot more likley to flip you over then your rear because your rear tire has more weight on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vertical cracks: The reason I keep a larger tire on now that it is warmer is to avoid falling due to vertical cracks and my tire getting stuck in them. Basically if your tire can't fit in the crack you can't get stuck in it and flip over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T17:42:35.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2011-05-14T03:04:12.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uze4s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clipless pedals&lt;/strong&gt;: By using a a different muscle group while pulling up they increase your speed and stamina. Essentially you use special shoes with bicycle cleats to clip in to the pedals. Once locked in you can pull up as well as push down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T03:04:12.447" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-14T03:04:12.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2011-05-14T04:41:44.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handlebar bag:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried frame bags, water bottle cage boxes and trunk bags, but the handlebar bag has been the most useful.  It provides a convenient place to store my wallet, phone, a camera, the primary and backup batteries for my lights, energy gel, work access badge and sunglasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1474" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T04:41:44.997" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-14T04:41:44.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3760" CreationDate="2011-05-14T14:01:03.407" Score="4" ViewCount="11836" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend recently got a new road bike.  After getting it home we realized that that handlebars were quite badly bent.  Here is a picture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my question.  Can I try and bend the bars back into shape or should I go out and get her a new pair?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect whether I can bend them back into shape will depend on what they are made out of.  How can I tell this?  The frame is made out of butted chromoly (according to a sticker on the bike).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit:&lt;/em&gt; Is this a warning flag about other issues on the bike?  I have checked the frame over (specifically where the head tube and top tube) meet to look for crash damage but I did not find anything.  Overall the frame looks good to my eyes.  Should this worry me?  What would cause bars to bend like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzhiA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2011-05-14T19:20:22.803" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T18:50:05.517" Title="Bent Handlebars" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3756" CreationDate="2011-05-14T14:37:51.013" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you buy it from a shop? If so, then take the bike back and tell them to replace the bars. If you bought it used from some guy, then it might be a little harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell from the picture, but it's safe to assume that the bars are aluminum. I wouldn't trust aluminum that's bent that far - definitely replace them. Also, check the frame for dents and deformation - whatever it was that damaged the bars could have damaged other stuff as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T14:37:51.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2011-05-14T16:03:41.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've scanned in a a page from the 'Free Your Bike' booklet by Sustrans, a registered biking and transport charity in the UK. I hope this is what you're looking for and that you find it useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ILyy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T16:03:41.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2011-05-14T16:46:45.853" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Items are in order of importance within each section. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Daily:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;(As moz &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/posts/3721/edit&quot;&gt;pointed out&lt;/a&gt;, much of this falls under &amp;#8220;things to be aware of while riding&amp;#8221;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do the brakes work well? (If not, get off the bike and adjust immediately.) If the brakes feel a little mushy, you can frequently adjust that at the lever. Any major problems, get off the bike and fix. You don't want to be unable to stop! &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the tire pressure, or at least squeeze the tires to see if they&amp;#8217;re inflated to a reasonable level. This is more critical with high-pressure tires, to prevent pinch flats. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does the drivetrain look reasonably clean? Any sticks or rocks in it? Do you feel anything grinding or clicking while riding? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are you able to shift smoothly? If not, you may be able to make minor adjustments at the shifters. Make a note of any problems for later. Keep in mind that major problems can cause undue wear on the drivetrain. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are the tires fairly symmetrical? If not, make a note of it, particularly any sidewall bulges. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weekly:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust your brakes, mostly taking up the slack from any cable adjustments you&amp;#8217;ve made via the brake lever adjusters. Are the brake pads parallel to the rims? Are the pads themselves worn and in need of replacing? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean your bike. No &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2756/practical-cleaning-routine-for-a-commuter-bike/2757#2757&quot;&gt;high-pressure water&lt;/a&gt;, please; that can cause problems with the bearings, and and knock your derailers out of adjustment. Warm water in a bucket and soap will do the job well. Use a rag or a soft brush on the drivetrain, using degreaser to get the grease and oil off: Wipe and rinse it clean, then add some lube when you're done.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; This item can be performed monthly if you ride on clean roads, but do keep an eye on the drivetrain; small pebbles or sticks can get caught in the drivetrain and cause damage. If you have fenders, clean them as well. Don't miss the pedals, particularly clipless pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check for any loose bolts or screws. (Many of these can be checked by hand.) Are your wheels' quick-releases tight? (In particular, check the front wheel, especially if you remove and replace it often.) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2758#2758&quot;&gt;bearings&lt;/a&gt;. Are the wheels and cranks turning evenly and smoothly? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at your tires. Anything caught in the tread? Look for thorns, slivers of glass, pieces of metal, small rocks, and anything else. These things can work their way in over time and result in a slow leak. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Monthly:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check for chain wear. You can do this with a ruler, or you can get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/2793#2793&quot;&gt;chain gauge&lt;/a&gt; to do this. If the chain is worn replace it immediately, but you shouldn&amp;#8217;t need to do this more than once or twice a year. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How&amp;#8217;s the chain tension? If it&amp;#8217;s drooping too much, tighten it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does the spoke tension seem even? You can do a rough check on this by squeezing adjacent spokes together and feeling for any catches or rubbing. (This can be a less frequent check with bikes that have heavier wheels or higher spoke counts. Those of you on light road bikes with ultra-skinny wheels may want to do this weekly.) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lube your brake and shifting cables. This may not need to be done monthly&amp;#8212;twice a year is usually enough&amp;#8212;but keep an eye on how smoothly they&amp;#8217;re working. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Every six months:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes: Time for servicing. A shop can do this best, unless you&amp;#8217;re a pro wrencher. What you'll want done: Bleed the brakes, clean the rotors if needed, check brake pad wear. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://mikesbikes.com/how-to/disc-brake-basics-pg158.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a page on servicing disc brakes&lt;/a&gt;. Be aware the squealing can be indicative of a problem (with conventional rim brakes, it's usually just an annoyance). Check for any leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any tires that look worn should be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is your bar tape looking worn? Handlebar grips getting ratty? It may be time for new ones. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Running a leather saddle? Time for some Proofride. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yearly&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have your wheels trued. Any shop with a truing stand can do this fairly quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace any cables that have stretched too much. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You&amp;#8217;ve been keeping an eye on that chain, yes? Check it again, swapping out for a new one if needed. A new chain is much cheaper than a replacement drivetrain that&amp;#8217;s been worn down because you didn&amp;#8217;t replace that chain! &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How&amp;#8217;s your saddle height and tilt? Handlebar angle? Stem height? How's the float on your clipless pedals? Time to look at these. Keep in mind that riders gain and lose weight, riding styles change, and bodies droop as they get older. Stay comfortable and keep your bike adjusted. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Internal hubs: How's the cable tension? Check the internal fluid by removing the pin: Is it black and dirty? It shouldn't be, in the event it is, so consider having the hub serviced. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bearings: Have you been noting any clicks or catches noticed while riding? Now&amp;#8217;s the time to have these looked at if you&amp;#8217;re been putting it off. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seasonal:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you ride in the winter, swap out your tires for studs, or at least ones with better tread&amp;#8212; preferably &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; your first spill on the ice. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You&amp;#8217;ll want to step up your cleaning routine when there&amp;#8217;s rock salt and ice. (similarly, you can relax it in the summer.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chains are inexpensive, and generally don&amp;#8217;t last more than a year or two, and usually need to be replaced after a winter of riding anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clean your bike.&lt;/strong&gt; A clean bike is less likely to experience other problems. Clean bikes are less likely to develop rust. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replace your chain&lt;/strong&gt; at the slightest excuse. A worn, &quot;stretched&quot; chain will wear down your drivetrain, requiring expensive repairs. It's worth learning how to do his on your own, if only so you can afford to do it more often. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay attention to your bike while riding. If something is loose or broken, you'll feel it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T06:47:11.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3756" CreationDate="2011-05-14T21:31:48.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bars &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; have been bent that way courtesy of a vehicle reversing into the bike. This would apply the required force without causing damage to the other parts. Alternatively, the bike could have been crashed for the STI levers and tape to somehow get off lightly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bending them back into shape is definitely a consideration. You need to apply an equal an opposite force to what they once received, however, in reality you will struggle to bend them back 'exactly right'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was my own bike then I would put the bars in the vice and pull them back - taking care to put something soft in the vice to not have 'teeth marks' on the bar tape. I wouldn't even bother taking the bars out of the stem, in that way the bike can be used for leverage. I would spend no more than ten minutes giving it a go, and I would hope to get lucky.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I did not have a vice (or the 'fix' did not work) then I would use a big wooden stick to apply the necessary leverage. If that did not work out then I would just get new bars and tape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel handlebars are hard to find, given the ch-mo frame I doubt the bars are carbon fibre rather than steel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is this thing called 'metal fatigue' that limits how far and how often you can bend aluminium before it breaks. There is also 'yield strength' and 'ultimate strength'. In straightening these bars out you will be working well below the limits and it is unlikely the bars will 'snap off'. Surface scratches to aluminium bars are a bigger danger to them than a 'little bit of bending', and if you really want to see the bars fail quickly, just drill a very small hole in them near the stem...!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have actually had aluminium handlebars fail (yes I was an idiot and drilled a small hole in them, but I was 15 at the time) and that happened down a big hill. The failure was not actually completely sudden and I did not crash. I have also straightened out a lot of bikes with unorthodox means in my time and believe it is worth a go, even if the bike is not one's own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check the track of the bike you can wrap string around the headtube and each side of the rear axle. The downtube should be in the middle, not to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T21:31:48.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2011-05-14T22:26:55.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Motorists are familiar with the 'Sam Browne' reflective belt, the 'Hump' rucksack cover or the reflective jacket, typically in yellow - or orange. To them, at night, when coupled with the regular LED flashers, no thinking is required to see that there is a bike ahead.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion there are good reasons not to decorate the bike too extensively with reflective tape. When parked up you really want your bike to be as stealthy as possible so that thieves, drunken idiots and other undesirables do not pay attention to it. Furthermore, an even layer of grime can quickly dull the reflective tape, not that it is that visible from behind (or head on) in the first place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an added benefit to the hi-viz jacket on the UK commute. The filth from the (diesel) car in front will make your normal coat quite dirty. Protect it with a hi-viz jacket. Also in early mornings there can be a chill in the air - a hi-viz jacket takes the chill off yet is not so tight that it will make you sweaty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My top tip for buying a hi-viz jacket is to buy a couple of them, long sleeve and sleeveless. Also, don't buy the £££ ones from the bike shop. Unlike the cheap ones that binmen and the like wear the bike shop ones do not have the E.U. style patterns that 3M + co worked to perfect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted already, trouser clips are a very good idea. The affordable 'Adie' brand ones available from any UK bike shop give motorists an idea of your relative speed and distance. If you are not wearing them, get cycle shoes with reflective heel tabs, if not wearing those then keep the British Standard approved pedal reflectors on the pedals. If you have lost those then get a set for free from your friendly bike shop - in the workshop they will have a drawer full of them knocking around.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reflective sidewalls are a great idea in principle, however, nobody keeps their bike clean enough for them to actually work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approaches to roundabouts are particularly hazardous, you need the traffic already on the roundabout to see you as well as the traffic behind you. The hi-viz jacket works well in these and other scenarios where visibility matters.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried the 'terror tactic' of having really bright lights on the bike, however, these can lead to unpredictable results. Basically there will be drivers that will respond with 'WTF?' and hit the brakes because they do not know what is coming towards them. You actually want to send them a 'I am a cyclist' message with symbols they already recognise - the flashers, pedal reflectors and, most important of all, the hi-viz jacket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two sets of lights, front and rear are a very good idea, much better than carrying spare batteries. If you can get one set hard-wired to the bike, e.g. on the reflector brackets you are less likely to get caught out without them. Also try to get a high level rear light that can be seen through car windscreens, e.g. attached to your rucksack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that helmets do not help you to be seen or to avoid accidents. If you really care about road safety go for the hi-viz jacket before the nice polystyrene hat (that doesn't quite fit properly...).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assertive, confident cycling also helps. Do not trudge along in the gutter and be aware of traffic coming towards you from other directions, e.g. head on cars overtaking. Light for these guys too and don't assume you will be okay when you only have a rear light (and no front).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T22:26:55.473" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2011-05-14T23:31:01.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against: Time to put, take off&lt;/strong&gt; This depends on your point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against: Inconvenient to carry when off-bike.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against: Does nothing to stop brain detaching from skull membrane&lt;/strong&gt; which is the most important damage to avoid (cuts are mere flesh wounds)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against: False sense of security/moral superiority&lt;/strong&gt; If polystrene was that good then they would make lorries and formula one cars out of the stuff. Look at a big lorry coming towards you and now imagine that a cheap bit of Chinese polystyrene is going to give you Superman-esque powers of invincibility.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against: The Dutch and Danes do not wear them&lt;/strong&gt;, although they do buy them for children they cycle with. Although road conditions may be different in Copenhagen, they still have fast moving automobiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against: Most helmets do not fit properly&lt;/strong&gt; I have sold several hundred helmets in my time, including more than a hundred on one day (at a trade show) hence I have experience of getting them to fit, which they can be made to do. However, most helmets that I see worn are not adjusted correctly and with one's little finger you can typically flip the lid back from being on the top of the head. With a bit more force, e.g. from the rider's mass decelerating from twenty miles an hour, the ill-fitting helmet could harm the rider, strangling them. This is particularly the case with children's helmets.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against: Reassures mother&lt;/strong&gt; She grew up when the car was king, she continues to trash the planet with her automobile, she has no intention of ever riding a bike again, she completely believes the FUD about helmets and has the occasional road mishap herself - sound familiar? Of course you can do as you are told - by her - after all, mum knows best, doesn't she? She actually has what psychologists call 'projection' and 'denial' on the go. There comes a time when you should tell her to take a hike, or at least a bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against: Anecdotal rubbish by the helmet trusters&lt;/strong&gt; We have all heard about so-and-so's little Johnny that &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; have had his head split open had he not been wearing a helmet, haven't we? You cannot argue against people and their anecdotal evidence, even if little Johnny was riding back from the pub pissed on unfamiliar roads having not been much of a cyclist in the first place. If you have not hit so much as a kerb in 20+ years then you can still be deemed irresponsible by the helmet trusters.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against: Poor quality helmet product.&lt;/strong&gt; Only the MET helmets have straps that are soft and lie flat on the side of one's face. Giro and Bell helmets have straps that want to dig in at a 90 degree angle, typically coupled with a buckle that can painfully pinch the skin.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For: Keeps head warm&lt;/strong&gt; in winter a helmet can keep your head out of the cold and rain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For: Great for off-road&lt;/strong&gt; cycling off road with any type of bravado is a bit silly without a lid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For: Professional road racing&lt;/strong&gt; You need a lid to road race. Unfortunately for Wouter Weylandt in this year's Giro d'Italia his helmet did not prevent his skull cracking after a crash and he is with us no more. However, no lid, no race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T23:31:01.730" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-14T23:31:01.730" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2011-05-15T01:01:05.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is clear that this design is heavy, weakens the structural integrity of what was once a simple diamond frame, introduces bushes that wear, does the 'pedal bob' and complicates the maintenance. However, what is in it for the manufacturer?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Horst Link' and other properly thought out suspension designs are patented, these patents cost money to licence, whereas the design discussed here is royalty free. It costs nothing apart from a few lumps of ugly metal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not wishing to defend the design, however, it does have some benefits with 24 and 20 inch wheel children's bikes, providing a lower standover height and providing some protection for the back wheel from kerbs and other objects 'in the playground'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a retailers perspective the differential between the non suspended and cheap suspended variant can be all of £10, which is £10 more in the till. The customer gets 'full suspension' for all of £10, which can be sold as a 'bargain'...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T01:01:05.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3786" CreationDate="2011-05-15T02:35:30.383" Score="10" ViewCount="14896" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter what I try I can't seem to remove the pump off my threaded presta valve without injuring my hands on my wheel spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm beginning to think I'm doing something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After unlocking, I just pull until the pump valve comes off.  Sometimes it is a fairly simple process.  Other times I have to use quite a bit of strength.  And the worse times I come in contact with the spokes and lose some skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips would be appreciated. I own an Avenir Air Source Pro pump with a dual head pump valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fkidom.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fkidom.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Avenir Air Source Pro&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1490" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-01-04T07:25:47.293" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T07:25:47.293" Title="How to safely remove pump off presta valve?" Tags="&lt;presta&gt;&lt;pump&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3765" CreationDate="2011-05-15T03:23:55.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be common. I know I have the same problem. I think any pump that uses a rubber cylinder with a hole in it, and compresses that to lock on will have the same problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real solution is one of the screw-on heads. They're annoying in their own way - screwing them on is tedious. They're also regarded as a high-end option, so you'll pay more for a pump with one. Or less if you go for the old-style frame pump with hose style, which also suck (the hose holds air that doesn't go into the tyre, making it harder to pump your tyre up). Don't be tempted to switch to schrader valves, they have much the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I've found is to adjust the pump/head properly. Most of them have an adjustment for how compressed the rubber cylinder starts out, which affects how compressed it gets. The ideal is obviously that it's loose enough to slide on and off easily, but when compressed is tight enough not to leak. Play with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps/RoadMorphG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;topeak road morph&quot;&lt;/a&gt; on-bike pump I have to overtighten the head when I'm not using the pump or the adjustment barrel comes loose and falls off (luckily, into my pannier). But to use it I back that barrel off a turn or so, then pump up my tyre. In theory I could release the compression lever then undo that barrel a little to get the pump off, but it's hard to get at the barrel when it's on a valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my floor pump it's easier - I just applied a bit of thread locking glue, adjusted it properly and left it. Once someone used it, tightened the barrel right up then complained that it was hard to get it off the valve. I have a useful facial expression for situations like that, combining disbelief and irritation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even the best adjustment doesn't seem to work especially well. I think as you pump the hot air heats the mechanism, the rubber softens and expands slightly, and it glues itself to the valve. But even the expensive pumps use a similar rubber, so I suspect it's a compromise between effective sealing and longevity. FWIW, I'm aware that the soft plastic used is not really rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actual safety tips for doing what you're doing now without losing skin... move the valve to the top of the wheel, pull down and use your other hand as a pad over whatever you're going to hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-15T04:05:20.463" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T04:05:20.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3765" CreationDate="2011-05-15T05:22:38.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find just a short, sharp (karate-style) chop about an inch back from the valve works well.  You'll want to make sure it's straight though to minimise stress on the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T05:22:38.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3772" CreationDate="2011-05-15T06:25:00.280" Score="10" ViewCount="19473" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tires are worn out so I want to change them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am trying to change them, I want them to be to the best fit for the conditions I cycle in. I cycle about 30 km a day on roads ranging from smooth pitched roads to very rough roads consisting of pits and stones in the most haphazard way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please suggest a type of tire that would be best for me. There do not need to be considerations for snow, it does not snow where I cycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-15T06:27:02.067" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T12:55:04.310" Title="Which tires are best for on and off road use?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-11-20T17:49:53.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3770" CreationDate="2011-05-15T06:41:23.003" Score="17" ViewCount="6224" Body="&lt;p&gt;This keeps me wondering. I normally see front and rear shocks on downhill bikes, but when it comes to touring, road, or mountain bikes, almost every one has only the front shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="1340" LastEditDate="2011-05-18T16:16:38.673" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T22:59:43.883" Title="Why don't most MTBs have rear shocks?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3769" CreationDate="2011-05-15T07:10:15.760" Score="17" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price - a suspended frame is much more complicated and expensive to make, and a good shock alone can cost more than a decent rigid frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance - both shocks (due to gaskets/seals, lubrication, cleaning) and elements suspended frames (additional bearings) are relatively high-maintenance and short-lived, compared to rigid frames. This also translates into less reliability, especially important in touring/trekking trips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost-effectiveness and weight-effectiveness - especially in road biking or touring, it's not such a big deal. Much better to put wider tires or suspended saddle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedalling efficiency - even the best suspension systems rob some of the user's energy. In mountain biking, it's more than offset by less energy expended by the rider, who can spend less time out of the saddle on uneven terrain, but in road cycling it's absolutely unjustifiable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T07:10:15.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3769" CreationDate="2011-05-15T07:23:38.543" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Efficiency:&lt;/strong&gt; On a suspension bike, some of the energy from the rider's pedaling is translated into the bike bouncing up and down on the suspension, so that's a strike against it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;strong&gt;weight&lt;/strong&gt; is a factor: Suspension makes a bike heavier, and this is a particular concern with road bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's much harder to fit &lt;strong&gt;racks&lt;/strong&gt; on a bike with suspension. Although it is possible to do so, such frames are more expensive and can be somewhat finicky to attach: Do a search on any touring forum for &quot;rack&quot; and &quot;suspension&quot; and you'll find many threads asking how to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt; is also a factor. Good suspension systems are expensive, bad ones are cheap and ubiquitous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, suspension is just one more thing that can &lt;strong&gt;break down&lt;/strong&gt;. It would be difficult to repair a hydraulic suspension system at the side of a road or in a SAG wagon.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Personally, I hate suspension with a passion because it makes it harder for me to &quot;feel&quot; the road. Ironically, one of the reasons steel is favored among touring cyclists is because it absorbs bumps better than Aluminum, which is said to be &quot;stiffer&quot; than steel, so a group that mostly avoids suspension favors a frame material that has some of the same qualities.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T07:23:38.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3768" CreationDate="2011-05-15T12:07:52.167" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is a hybrid tire with not enough tread to be a nuisance and slow you down on the road, but enough tred so that when you go off road you are not losing traction on gravel and mud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example Bontrager makes a hybrid tire that is nice:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jz2hl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bontrager hybrid tire&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, go with the hard wall tires whenever you can. they cost a little more, but they are more puncture resistant. So they will cause you less grief on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-15T22:58:23.327" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T22:58:23.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3769" CreationDate="2011-05-15T15:05:31.433" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some pro racers have successfully campaigned full-suspension bikes.  However, pro racers have big budgets and team mechanics to keep everything ship-shape.&#xA;A good rear shock absorber can cost more than an entry-level bike...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most off-road riders, they are simply not necessary; let your legs be the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T15:05:31.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3768" CreationDate="2011-05-16T02:07:26.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for something similar to what you are now about six months ago. I was looking for low rolling resistance, durability and flexibility on a variety of surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having used them for this time with one flat caused by a large shard of glass, &lt;strong&gt;I'm happy to recommend the 'Panaracer T-Serv PT'. Details at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.panaracer.com/urban.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.panaracer.com/urban.php&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm uncertain as to the availability outside this part of the world, but thought I'd let you know anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1492" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T02:07:26.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2011-05-16T06:00:06.910" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should check out the 15 Way To Unstick a Seatpost by Sheldon &quot;Unggggghhh!&quot; Brown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1493" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T06:00:06.910" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3768" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:29:27.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The WTB NanoRaptor (looks like it's now just the &quot;Nano&quot;) is one of the more popular MTB tires with pavement performance in mind. It's more off road oriented than the tires that Stopher87 suggests, but still has a nearly continuous center bead that makes it roll smoothly on asphalt. It may work better for you on loose gravel roads. Here is the 29er version: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wtb.com/products/tires/29er/nano-29er/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wtb.com/products/tires/29er/nano-29er/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OdpWb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nano&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T13:29:27.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3730" CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:45:10.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to look up the frame geometry (useful for comparing to an online fit tool) on the manufacturer's web site if the bike is new enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times there will also be an approximate frame size-height sizing chart available online as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the online fit calculator that GuyZee recommends and it seems to work well for me, for what that's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T14:45:10.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3768" CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:53:30.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knobby treads are really only useful in mud, sand, or snow. On roads (even rough ones) they just add extra weight and noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the tires listed so far, the Bontrager and Panaracer tires look like better choices than the NanoRaptor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard good things about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/big_apple&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Big Apple&lt;/a&gt; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T14:53:30.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3783" CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:09:40.057" Score="14" ViewCount="5010" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike that I want to bring with me to the place I will be flying to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there are bags that are designed especially for this kind of situation: the bike travel bags such as the one shown on the picture below.  But, as they are expensive (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/evoc/bike-travel-bag-ec026957?query=bike%20bag&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;that one costs £250 for example&lt;/a&gt;) I would like to evaluate all the alternatives (if any) before I go ahead and spend so much money with something that I would use once in a blue moon. How could I prepare my bike to be taken on a flight if I don't own a bike travel bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B7Qdx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2017-12-23T09:34:03.753" Title="I'm going to take my bike with me on a plane. Do I really need a special bike travel bag to have it transported safely?" Tags="&lt;transportation&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3782" CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:37:05.480" Score="3" ViewCount="5919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to purchase a rear child seat for my almost-two-year-old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main feature I'm interested in is being able to very quickly and easily take it on and off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Yepp Maxi I saw in a store here in NYC fits the description but it is $210+ and that's more than I wanted to spend.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/webservices/rei/DisplayStyle/815613?source=gpla&amp;amp;cm_mmc=cse_froogle-_-datafeed-_-product-_-815613&amp;amp;mr%3atrackingCode=56024905-8C51-E011-BB8E-001B21631C34&amp;amp;mr%3areferralID=NA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;REI link for Yepp Maxi&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What others are out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1496" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T22:27:07.857" Title="What child seats have a quick-release mechanism?" Tags="&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:56:45.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Airlines are not going to let you take a full size bike on a plane with the possible exception of a folding bicycle. If you want to transport your bicycle you are going to have to pack it up. Some airlines sell boxes for this purpose. If you don't know &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2jCN2nVnNY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to do it yourself&lt;/a&gt; you can always bring it to a LBS and have them do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather then take it on the plane you can send it through the mail to wherever your destination is and assemble it when you arrive there. Better yet you can send it to a LBS on the other side and have them resemble it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T18:56:45.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3780" CreationDate="2011-05-16T19:00:58.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Topeak makes a lot of quick release products that integrate with their rack which has rails for all of their gear to slide into. Here is a picture of their baby seat.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Child-Carrier/babyseat_wrack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3keef.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Child-Carrier/babyseat_wrack&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T19:00:58.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2011-05-16T21:10:21.247" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently flew to Europe with my wife, and we brought along our bicycles. Our solution was to disassemble them the night before and place them into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_174818_-1_201521_10000_200440&quot;&gt;cheap Nashbar bicycle bags&lt;/a&gt;. We wrapped &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BPDFDS&quot;&gt;pipe insulation foam&lt;/a&gt; around just about everything to avoid damage from handling. For extra protection, we then stuffed these into the standard bike boxes provided (at a minimal cost) by the airline. I would highly recommend the internal bags, as the TSA opened both our boxes during each flight, and did not bother to close the boxes back up. Wheels or other components could have easily fallen out in flight had we not used canvas bags inside the larger boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be very careful about which airline you choose to fly on. Most airlines have a surcharge for checking bicycles, and this can vary wildly between carriers. Our tickets were initially on Delta, who wanted to charge us $200 per bicycle per leg. With a 2-leg trip to Amsterdam and back, this would have cost $1,600 to ferry our bikes, which was ridiculous. Thankfully, we discovered this within the 24-hour cancellation window and switched to Continental, who only charged $100 per bicycle per itinerary, costing us only $400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day, though, transporting your bike via airlines is expensive and annoying. Our next touring bikes will absolutely have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandsmachine.com/&quot;&gt;S&amp;amp;S couplers&lt;/a&gt; to allow us to fit the bikes in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandsmachine.com/regs.htm&quot;&gt;regulation-size checked luggage&lt;/a&gt;, which should help us avoid airline surcharges and additional TSA inspections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T21:10:21.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3730" CreationDate="2011-05-16T22:02:15.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the Rivendell frame sizing article to be quite illuminating during the process of test-riding dozens of bikes to try to discover the proper size:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=41&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=41&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately a bike that feels just a tiny bit too big in the store / out of the box is probably the right size after dialing in e.g. seatpost height, seat angle, handlebar height/angle, crank length, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fiddling with the setup extensively is not in the cards, I think you can get an OK sizing by going one or two smaller -- whatever feels immediately 'controllable' off the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2013-07-13T05:00:23.897" LastActivityDate="2013-07-13T05:00:23.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3780" CreationDate="2011-05-16T23:21:06.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience almost all of them have some form of quick release, but few are really lockable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least some of the CoPilot, Hamax, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gazellebicycles.com.au/products/bobike-child-bike-seats/mini-front-child-seat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoBike&lt;/a&gt;, Beto and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.okbaby.it/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=103:orion&amp;amp;catid=19:ciclo&amp;amp;Itemid=91&amp;amp;lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OK Baby&lt;/a&gt; seats are quick release and the OK Baby one is lockable. Most will sell you multiple mounts so you can easily use the same seat with multiple bikes. Check the desciption on the seats you're interested in, as I would not suggest buying based on quick release as a major factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pCsLx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OK Baby Orion baby seat&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CSFL4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;OK Baby locking system&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, most of them have a mounting system that bolts onto the bike and is tedious to remove. So someone stealing the seat would need to buy a new mount for it. They'd probably just steal the whole bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T23:21:06.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3765" CreationDate="2011-05-17T01:08:35.847" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to skin my knuckles every time I took the chuck off the valve.  Then I figured it out (pain is a learning curve accelerator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Position the wheel so the presta valve is closest to you and pointed away from you.  Use your thumbs on either side of the wheel to push the chuck straight off (toward the hub of the wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This prevents the presta stem from being bent/broken and limits how far you hands can move when the chuck pops off.  No more bashed knuckles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1474" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T01:08:35.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3780" CreationDate="2011-05-17T06:26:49.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a Soosi 'Flinger' (terrible name for a child seat huh?!) from my local bike shop recently for my 1.5 year old and it has been really good.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a bracket which stays on the bike but rest can easily be clicked in and out without too much fuss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unable to find any info on the company, which is usually a bad sign, but the seat has been good so far, seems strong and my child is comfortable in it.  It's not a fancy seat by any means but does the job.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z37xG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kids Bike Seat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T06:26:49.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-17T12:00:47.063" Score="6" ViewCount="6465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering buying an electric bicycle using brushless DC Hub Motor. What is the difference between 24V Vs 36V motor? Is it related to the maximum torque produced by the motor? If yes, what does that mean to a bike rider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T09:27:17.993" Title="24V Vs 36V Brushless DC HUB Motor For Electric Bike" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2011-05-17T12:02:31.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;normally your LBS has spare boxes from sold bikes and they are more than happy for you to take them (always ask first) I use these boxes to pack my bike into - after all they are shipped in them in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="519" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T12:02:31.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3765" CreationDate="2011-05-17T12:04:36.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just slide a couple fingers under the chuck (and against the wheel) and basically pry against the wheel.  Takes very little effort compared to trying to pull, and it pops the chuck off without any risk of banging your hands into anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T12:04:36.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3788" CreationDate="2011-05-17T12:05:21.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as motors go, usually the higher the voltages the more efficient they run. However there is a trade-off because usually the higher the voltage, the less efficient the battery is! Different systems may balance these factors at different points depending on how they expect the system to be used and what parts they have access too. I don't think you will be able to strictly say one is better than the other, you will need to compare the specs and a whole package and figure out what package suites you best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1340" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T12:05:21.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2011-05-18T02:46:40.153" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only will your local bike shop have quality 'virgin rainforest grade' cardboard boxes going spare they will also have the plastic braces that fit inside the front fork, the plastic plug to fit into the top of the seat tube, the plastic spacers to fit on the rear q/r and the foam 'pipe wrap' tubes that go around the three main triangles. They may even let you have a few zip ties that you can use to tightly bind the handlebars to wherever they fit in the box. The aim of the game is to not have anything that can fall from the bike or any paint that can be rubbed off, e.g. from the front hub knocking on the down tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to pay attention to the gears, if the chain is on the outer chainring and on the big sprocket then it is less likely that the rear mech or chainset will get damaged. As for the pedals, you may need to have some lightweight pedal spanner that actually works, or a big 6mm hex-wrench (if your pedals support it). Ideally you want nothing to rattle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that boxes come in different sizes, you will most likely want the larger size as these boxes are fairly optimised - you won't get a 23&quot; frame to fit into a box originally designed for a 17.5&quot; frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing a cycle tour you can also use some of your clothing items, towel and other soft items to pad out the box. Get this right and you will have one big box and a manageable amount of hand luggage. Get it wrong and you will have a box that you can barely lift and the airline will not take.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which brings me on to the next point. Not only do some of the 'proper' boxes cost a minor fortune, they can also weigh a metric tonne (or thereabouts). Hence the cardboard box has a lot going for it, not only is it disposable, it is light too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that baggage handlers will need handles for handling your baggage, use tape to strengthen the hand holes that are already in the box and tape up the top and bottom so there is no chance of your precious cargo bursting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before now I have re-assembled the bike in the airport and dumped the big cardboard box in one of their bins. On the return hop I have also managed to find a not-so-local bike shop, obtained a box and packaged accordingly for the journey home. This is less stressful than relying on the airline having a box. Negotiating the airport is always easy enough because they have little trolleys everywhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have travel insurance take pictures of your bike before departure and write down the frame number. Also make sure that the bike is completely clean as some countries do object to mud being 'smuggled in'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T02:46:40.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="315" CreationDate="2011-05-18T02:59:33.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Latex tubes?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The posh 'extra comfy', low-rolling resistance 'latex' tubes that cost twice that of normal tubes can deflate quicker than is desirable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valves can also be a problem, typically from getting chalk dust particles inside the valve innards. This can be the case with both valve types, however, with Presta you can mitigate against this by ensuring the valves are done up tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that rubber perishes when in contact with the elements, to minimise the chance of this make sure the valve caps are present.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted, if one tyre deflates quicker than the other then it is likely that you have a slow puncture. This puncture may not necessarily be visible to the naked eye, holes can be a 'normal' part of the manufacturing process or they can be introduced around the valve seat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different tyres deflate over time at different rates. This is proportional to the tyre volume, e.g. a 20&quot; x 1.5&quot; tyre will deflate quicker than a 26&quot; x 2.3&quot; tyre. 5-10 PSI is borderline acceptable, even if accounting for air lost connecting up your track pump. You should only need to attend to tyre pressure every fortnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T02:59:33.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3700" CreationDate="2011-05-18T03:24:31.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A genuine LBS (that does lots of workshop repairs) will hopefully have a spare rear mech for your son's bike although this may be in a plastic bag without a manual in the workshop, probably without a price sticker on it. Reason being that rear mechs on 20&quot;/24&quot; wheel 'youth' bikes get damaged all the time (because of how such bikes get dropped onto the pavement).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the advice of the LBS and ask - chances are that the workshop 'OEM part' is better suited to the bike than the fancy-boxed, priced and with manual rear mech that is in the showroom. It should also be significantly cheaper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make your task easier you may also want to pickup a fresh inner cable with end-cap so that the end of the cable does not get frayed. Again the LBS may sell you an un-boxed cable from the workshop supplies for less money than the packaged cable in the showroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ground clearance is a big consideration with smaller wheeled 'youth' mountain bikes. Do not buy the long-arm mech if the medium length mech will suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T03:24:31.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3765" CreationDate="2011-05-18T03:34:49.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Invest in a track pump with a dual Presta/Shrader head and a 'lock lever' that you flip over to get a snug fit, regardless of the valve type. Make sure the pump comes with a gauge and keep your tyres at pressure because they are then less likely to become punctured. Check the pressure every fortnight or every month depending on how important speed is to your cycling. If you follow this advice (and make sure no pieces of glass are embedded in the tyres) then you will only need your normal pump on the road, if and when you get a puncture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have the luxury of a track pump you only need a cheap mini pump for on the road, something that just gets enough air in to get you home. Cheap mini pumps are particularly advantageous because they have fewer parts and are less likely to rattle to pieces in your bag than their pricier counterparts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aforementioned 'chop' technique is the way to get the pump off the valve, however, even in cheap mini-pump land you should be able to get a pump with a lock lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T03:34:49.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-18T04:19:22.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are negotiating an 'Alp worth' of switchbacks on a heavy bike with narrow rims there is a problem of heat. You can cook the brake blocks for them to suddenly have the stopping power of cheese on toast, maybe to send you out wide on a bend (if you are lucky). In rescuing your bike from the vegetation you may touch one of the rims for it to be too hot to handle. Although it is obvious that brakes get hot it is not necessarily an obvious consideration whilst you are otherwise doing a good job of descending.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broken bones and flesh wounds can be fixed by the doctors and nurses, what you want to avoid is traumatic brain injury where your brain smacks on the inside of the skull, bruises, swells up and leads to brain damage. With age brain damage becomes less sustainable in that you cannot recover from it in the way that those that suffer strokes recover brain function. Allegedly just falling over onto a hard surface can give your head a 15 mph whack, enough to ruin your brain for maybe a lifetime. A helmet will not change this sudden deceleration force significantly - your brain behaves much like a person not wearing a seatbelt in a car where crumple zones in the bonnet don't really help. Technically standing still is therefore 'dangerous' - you could faint and die, just like that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Feeling safe' has nothing to do with this technicality, but hey, if you are in the zone, on a cool road with no mechanical/traffic/weather/surface problems then 65 mph 'feels' fantastic and if you make it to the bottom in one piece then '65' is obviously safe...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a more logical way for a UK cyclist to look at the situation is the 'twenty is plenty' road safety campaign. This campaign is all about pedestrians and setting traffic speeds that are survivable for them. Getting hit by a car at 20mph as a pedestrian is probably similar to falling off a bike at 20 mph - a lot more survivable than 30 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T04:19:22.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2011-05-18T04:44:16.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes approximately twelve hours for bacteria to grow in your sweat and produce the waste products that we know as 'body odour'. Therefore, if you shower in the morning before you start your commute, you can work nine to six and not worry about having not baby-wiped every orifice on your arrival. If taking the 'only stale sweat stinks' approach you may want to avoid nylon clothing as this can harbour bacteria in the nylon fibres, beyond the reach of the washing machine.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Business casual' is a uniform of sorts, I recommend 3 easy iron shirts, a spare selection of undies, a jacket, a couple of pairs of trousers and some shoes in the desk at work. It should always be possible to carry an item or two in your panniers/rucksack/saddlebag to rotate the clothes selection and a fresh T-shirt for ever day. Nobody will ever think you are weird for always wearing a variation of the same outfit as your reputation as a cyclist should go before you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Copenhagen and the Netherlands people commute to work in regular clothes at affordable cycling speeds on heavy bikes. To my knowledge they do not have to then shower on their employers hot water (and time) or do something weird with loads of baby wipes. They probably also do a better job of attracting the opposite sex by radiating their own pheromones rather than the fake ones included in the better deodorant brands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T04:44:16.410" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-18T04:44:16.410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="315" CreationDate="2011-05-18T05:49:16.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;High-pressure,low-volume tires like typical roadster tires often need to be checked daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They might only need a few pounds pressure to bring up to normal, but it's best to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower-pressure higher-volume tires like typical MTB tires seem more forgiving, but in maintaining our department fleet of 25 patrol bikes, I find a minimum of weekly checking is necessary.&#xA;It's next to impossible to tell without actually putting a gauge on the tire; the thing may feel quite firm and still be 20 pounds under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T05:49:16.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2011-05-18T14:21:17.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheap, readily available answer is a bandana. It works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also ride often with a cycling hat like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walzcaps.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Waltz caps&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rapha.cc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rapha&lt;/a&gt; makes some cool looking ones but they cost some major coin...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caps have a visor to keep the sun/rain out of your eyes which bandanas don't. If it is bugging you and you switch it around backwards also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T14:21:17.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3170" CreationDate="2011-05-18T14:30:12.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like we have similar needs in bikes.  I'm new to having a &quot;real&quot; bike (not just a $150 break-it-in-a-year bike), so my first stop was a number of local bike shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the shops I tried to honestly answer what I planned on doing with the bike (~3 mile commute daily, weekend leisure/exercise rides, and running errands) and let the staff guide me towards a style, unanimously they steered me towards a hybrid--and all three shops advised me on the Trek Fx line (as well as other hybrids).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason for the hybrid was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was used to low-end mountain bikes, with &quot;regular&quot; handlebars, and an upright sitting position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had no desire to do &quot;real&quot; mountain biking.  99% of my rides are on roads, bike-paths, or well packed dirt roads.  Shocks, big tires, etc had very little benefit for my actual usage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hybrid tires compromise on size, pressure, and durability between mountain and road.  The middle-road between the wide/knobby mountain and skinny/slick road tires leaves you with some traction for loose gravel (on the road or on dirt trails), are more durable than road tires, and still much lighter/faster than mountain tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wanted to be able to run errands and lug home a load of stuff, maybe up to ~50lbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I settled on a Trek Fx 7.3 and aside from a couple small shortcomings am very happy.  I've had it for about a month, and have put about 150 miles on it--I use it as often as possible for my commute and errands and am trying to go on at least a couple 20+ mile rides in the week.  The seat and grips are about the only things I plan on swapping out.  I've added a rack and bag, and plan on a set of fenders shortly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, despite friends insisting &quot;hybrid means terrible at everything&quot; I've found it to be a very good balance between mountain and road.  I may experiment with skinnier tires and/or drop-bars, but in both cases it's out of curiousity rather than deficiency.  I rarely wish for either more top-end gears or bottom-end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T14:30:12.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3600" CreationDate="2011-05-18T15:25:00.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another Baldy Here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like the answers cover the range of options. I typically go with &quot;headsweats&quot; type options with wicking fabrics and buy em only when they are on sale. On a day where I do not expect to sweat a lot, I roll with a bandana. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple points that haves not been mentioned in regards to sunblock: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Sunblock has a tendency to run and winds up in your eyes...aside from blurry vision, it is also not a very pleasant experience. If you go with sunblock definitely go with a least a Sport version which is supposed to minimize running, but my experience is that Aveeno and Neutrogena Face Lotions are best! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Sunblock also wreaks havoc on the pads inside the helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T15:25:00.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3805" CreationDate="2011-05-18T16:05:12.007" Score="4" ViewCount="57501" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear brake cable detached yesterday while riding. When I pull the level all the way back (which I can now do with no tension), I think I can see the end of the brake cable inside the brake hood, but it's no longer being pulled by the lever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a common problem? It seems like the cable shouldn't detach easily, but if something is wrong either equipment or technique-wise I'd like to correct it post haste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a way I can re-attach the cable without disassembling and re-taping my handlebars? (My bike has standard road drop bars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T18:12:41.447" Title="How to fix a detached brake cable?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2011-05-18T16:35:06.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I've had that happen before, it's never that the cable actually disconnected inside the brake lever, it's either disconnected &lt;em&gt;at the brake&lt;/em&gt; or one of the &lt;em&gt;cable housing stops&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the other brake still work?  Can you see how the cable end is connected in that lever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, check the brake.  Different brakes have different styles of how it's done, but there's usually some way to quickly release the brake (to make it easier to remove the wheel).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, check the cable all the way from the brake to the lever.  The cable will run the whole way, of course, but the housing that the cable runs in will typically be in sections.  The ends of the sections (that aren't at the brake or lever) will generally have a sort of metal cap that fits into some kind of stop. The stops on my bike are sort of little cup shaped things with a hole for the cable and a slot along one side to allow the cable to be run into it in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only ever had it happen when I forgot to reattach the brake after fixing a flat.  When the cable has too much slack it's easy for either of those problems to happen.  Once you get everything working again, check how much slack the cable has. It shouldn't be common if everything is adjusted right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's really become disconnected inside the brake lever, how to reconnect the end without untaping and retaping your bars will depend on exactly how the cable is connected inside the lever. On mine I think if I released the tension elsewhere on the cable it would be possible to pull the cable end into the place it should be in (but it would be a fiddly sort of operation working in a cramped little space).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T16:35:06.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2011-05-18T16:42:39.150" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without pictures or a better description, it's hard to know if it was a failure of the cable or the brake lever. If the brake lever has broken and can no longer grasp on to the end of the cable, you'll need to replace the lever itself. However, a more likely scenario is that either the nub on the end of the cable that the lever holds on to has come off. You may also have a lever where the nub can pop off of if there's no tension in the cable, which can happen if there's too much friction in the cable housings. This may also be caused by the cable having become detached from the brake: you're pulling the lever, but it's not attached to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quickest and easiest thing to do is try to simply re-cable the bike. This can be done quickly (time: 15m) and cheaply (cost: $10), and in doing so will also help diagnose if the problem is deeper. You should also go ahead and re-cable the other brake lever and the shifters as well — if this was caused by a failure in the cable, the other cables may be ready to fail as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the cable out of the brake lever, pull the brake lever until you can see the cable, or where it should be. Find where the cable comes out of the other end of the housing and push it through until it comes out through the handle. To replace it, just thread the new cable back through and clamp it on the brake. It should look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DkqrG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel a lot of friction pulling the cable out or installing the new one, you should replace the housings. This will take a little bit more time (45m) and some more money (housings: $10, bar tape: $15), but is still pretty easy to do. Unwrap your handlebars and re-insert the brake cable, replacing the old housings as you go. Wrap the handlebars back up, and you should be all set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the nub end of the brake cable isn't being gripped by the brake lever, or the piece to do so is missing, you will have to reinstall a new brake lever. This will be a good bit more expensive, and will also require that you re-wrap the handlebar tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T16:42:39.150" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3170" CreationDate="2011-05-18T17:03:25.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hybrid isn't necessarily the bike you should be looking for. Most of them have knobby tires, which are awful for riding on streets. They use flat handlebars, which (IMHO) are less useful than drops. You can &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; ride on flat handlebars in the one position, but you can ride drops in a similar position (on the hoods), plus you have more options for changing positions for comfort on longer rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A commuter-style road bike, however, should come equipped with wider road tires (which have better grip than knobby ones, especially in corners) that should have a greater resistance to punctures. For instance, I've ridden on 28C &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.panaracer.com/urban.php#ribmo_pt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panaracer Ribmos&lt;/a&gt; for over 3,800 miles without a puncture or flat. It should also have fenders to protect you when it rains, and possibly a rack on which to carry cargo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm biased, but hybrid bikes have always seemed to me like the wrong tool for any job. They're not good off-road, they're not good on roads, and in my experience they're often manufactured extremely poorly. Something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check_complete/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Cross Check&lt;/a&gt; is a good place to start looking, although you don't necessarily need to spend that much money. Especially if you can find a good deal on something from Craigslist or eBay. But a solid bike like that will last you hell of a lot longer of solid use than a crappy hybrid will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T17:03:25.450" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3809" CreationDate="2011-05-18T19:00:13.660" Score="0" ViewCount="1579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to move my brake levers and gear shifters around a bit.  The problem is my gears (Shimano Alivio, bought 4 years ago) have a large gear indicator on it.  This is meaning that either the brakes are too far in from my hands, or the gear shifters are too close to my hands and I bump into them and find it awkward to change gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken the cover off of the front shifter which comes off nice and easily, but the mechanism is slightly exposed below, so think I need some sort of cover plate or the gears will get damaged over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing?  Has anyone had any experience with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T05:42:40.387" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T22:26:20.373" Title="swap Shimano Alivio gear indicator for cover plate" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3170" CreationDate="2011-05-18T20:03:12.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to say that a 'cross bike or tourer might be a good option.  (though considerably more expensive than the typical hybrid)&#xA;Both can easily be equipped with rather gnarly tires which should take just about anything you can throw at them.&#xA;The problem with upright-position hybrid or &quot;fitness&quot; or &quot;comfort&quot; bikes is that they are not particularly efficient.  10-20 miles a day is not &quot;serious&quot; mileage, but still turning in that distance constantly with essentially all your weight on your....Fundamental bits can be a strain... Such bikes are intended for more casual use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T20:03:12.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3807" CreationDate="2011-05-18T21:35:29.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope - there is no cover option. You can live without the indicators - I don't think I have ever looked at mine in earnest. Given the situation you can just tape it up as best you can to make sure none of the internals are exposed to the elements.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of other shifter options that all cost money that will be considerable compared to the 'OEM' cost that your cycle manufacturer paid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to spend some money then you can get some very fancy Shimano shifter/brake lever combos that will have the required ergonomics. Or you may want to consider the 'unfashionable' gripshift option. Gripshift are fantastic for everyday riding and compatible with Shimano 8 speed (which I presume your Alivio setup is). People do get rid of the gripshift and put the parts on ebay. They are frequently found on 'affordable' kids bikes and can vary externally in condition, however the internals are invariably sound as there are no moving parts. Give them a go, they are fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T21:35:29.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2011-05-19T00:26:20.560" Score="-1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go to this site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zinncycles.com/book_and_dvd.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.zinncycles.com/book_and_dvd.php&lt;/a&gt; and get the book appropriate to your bike. You most likely need: Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can also check out Park Tool. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/&lt;/a&gt; Many techniques/methods are available here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, FWIW, I have few issues with putting my greasy hands onto the $24 Zinn book; however, greasy hands on the MacBook (or your laptop of choice)....not so happy about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T00:47:19.433" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T00:47:19.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3788" CreationDate="2011-05-19T09:41:09.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Again, it's &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3663/why-are-electric-bikes-so-expensive/3687#3687&quot;&gt;the same as with battery powered power tools&lt;/a&gt;. Usually the higher the voltage the more powerful the motor is and the higher battery Volt-Ampere-hour (not Volt-Ampere alone) rating is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More powerful motor will usually (but not necessarily) mean higher torque and that will mean climbing steeper hills at higher speeds and accelerating faster. Higher battery Volt-Ampere-hour rating will mean you have more energy in the battery and can go further on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above implies that both cases have the same energy efficiency which is not always true - motor controllers and other circuitry can have different efficiencies on different bike models. You should get details on the specific models you compare and pick the one you like more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T09:41:09.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3817" CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:56:26.687" Score="11" ViewCount="2486" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I wear a bicycle helmet, and I fall hard and my helmet cracks. Do I buy a new helmet or can I try repair the old one with some glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T16:46:07.187" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T02:08:00.303" Title="Are bicycle helmets repairable or disposable?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3819" CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:07:10.930" Score="12" ViewCount="4055" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a double decker bus stops in front of you, what do you do? Is it safe to attempt to overtake the bus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T12:15:42.900" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T09:14:11.593" Title="What do you do when a bus stops in front of you?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;skills&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3815" CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:17:35.490" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're designed to take the impact of the fall, once they've done the job they can't be used again and you must buy another. It's not safe to attempt to repair a helmet with glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T14:10:07.233" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T14:10:07.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3816" CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:55:30.887" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Highway Code comes in handy with this question...&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In London drivers of all buses are exceptionally well trained and likely to be highly experienced. They know every part of their route and have 'dealt with' plenty of cyclists before. They will always indicate when they are pulling over and indicate again when they are going to pull out. It is highly unlikely that you will be in their 'blind spot' at any stage of your overtaking manoeuvre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends on the traffic situation, how much speed you have and how important your journey is. Sometimes you can look through the back of the bus and see how many people are to dismount/catch the bus - if the stop looks like a busy one then you should overtake the bus, in part this is to clarify your intentions to road users behind you that may be 'waiting' for you to overtake before they do likewise. Conversely, if the bus is only dropping off one person, and, if the terrain does not suit you, then it can be advantageous to let the bus go, to 'draft' it and get a good, maintainable tow along the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bus stops, e.g. on a narrow road with a curve to the left may not allow you to see the oncoming traffic. It may be advisable to hold back in these situations, even if the traffic coming the other way is bumper to bumper. This is because a motorbike or other cyclist may be using the gap between the bus and the cars coming the other way and, once you have committed to overtaking the bus, you cannot duck in to the side again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the Highway Code and you are supposed to let bus drivers pull out. Normal car drivers know this better than most cyclists although not all of them will let the bus out first as they do not want to be stuck behind it. As a cyclist you do not necessarily have the same need to overtake as the bus is likely to be faster than you between stops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, as a general rule, you should overtake the bus if the general situation is safe AND the bus does not have its right hand turn indicators on. If the bus does have the right hand turn indicators on and you overtake then that is against the spirit of the Highway Code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T12:55:30.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3815" CreationDate="2011-05-19T13:44:51.343" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Helmet manufacturers recommend replacing helmets after the crash, even if there are no visible cracks, just to be sure. If you see a crack, the helmet cannot do its purpose anymore. You might want to replace the helmet if it is getting old (a few years or so) even if there has been no crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, most of us are making money with our brain, so we need to protect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="961" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T18:27:52.473" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T18:27:52.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3527" CreationDate="2011-05-19T15:38:03.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are Shimano SD65 sandals with the SPD cleat, cleats being a safety feature IMHO as they keep your feet on the pedals even if you are not fully clipped in, with less scope for your feet to slip off the front of the pedals. Couple these with Time rather than SPD cleats and you get ankle movement and do not have to constantly reposition your feet as happens with platform pedals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned already in this thread, flip-flops are a bad idea. In fact they are a spectacularly bad idea and I only found this out after meeting someone that broke their ankle from riding a bike with flip-flops. What happened was that the flip-flop bent round the pedal to be close to the ground, this hit some scenery and the hospital ward followed thereafter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T15:38:03.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3815" CreationDate="2011-05-19T16:38:25.837" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Did you crash it? &lt;em&gt;Replace immediately.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Did you drop it hard enough to crack the foam? &lt;em&gt;Replace.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it from the 1970's? &lt;em&gt;Replace.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the outside just foam or cloth instead of plastic? &lt;em&gt;Replace.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does it lack a CPSC, ASTM or Snell sticker inside? &lt;em&gt;Replace.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can you not adjust it to fit correctly? &lt;em&gt;Replace!!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/replace.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1510" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T16:38:25.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1715" CreationDate="2011-05-19T16:49:33.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Boardman bb30 bottom bracketr has a bad reputation. My brother bought his bike back in Sept 2009, and the bottom bracket failed approx 12 months later after being used once a week on mostly tracks and roads. since then it has failed again, probably due to incorrect spacers being used.&#xA;allegedly these bottom brackets have an external roller bearing which can suffer from ingress of water on the left side, causing premature failure. we have met 2 bike shop proprietors who have both changed a few of these&#xA;shame really cos the bike is a great one with high spec parts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1512" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T16:49:33.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3170" CreationDate="2011-05-19T16:51:56.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Opus Legato, which is a 27 speed drop handle bar road bike. The roads in my town are terrible also. My solution was to put rather fat nearly slick tires on it (700mmx38mm). I did this with a circa 1997 Devinci Caribou as well. It can bounce through potholes and I jump kerbs all the time. The tire depth prevents bottoming out on the rim. Works well for medium rough off road riding as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1511" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T16:51:56.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2011-05-19T16:56:14.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should seriously consider a hard case. Baggage gets some rough handling and your bike could get damaged. Me, I once had to flatten the chain wheels on a bike after shipping it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1511" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T16:56:14.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3724" CreationDate="2011-05-19T23:40:56.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are replacing just the chain (and not the sprockets or chainset) here is a tip for getting the chain length correct.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the old chain off and hold it up with the new chain. Compare the length and remove 2-4 links so that the the two chains are of the 'same' length.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Same&lt;/em&gt; ?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chains wear, that wear means the chain appears to have stretched. Sometimes this 'stretch' can be minimal, at other times it can be as much as a link, or maybe more. Should the 'stretch' amount to a link's length then you are advised to replace the sprockets too. This is because they are also likely to be worn out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in the business of fixing bikes regularly then it is useful to have two small nails in the workshop, high up and above the metal recycling bin. In that way you can hook the old and new chains onto the nails and compare lengths that bit easier. When done you can then release the old chain straight into the bin, thereby minimizing dirt/grease/oil on one's hands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This technique works, it also saves time and reduces the likelihood of getting the chain length wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T23:40:56.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2011-05-19T23:56:18.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are on a budget and need a quality repair stand for your garage or workshop, do consider the two-hooks in the ceiling and two bits of rope method.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that you have two hooks in the ceiling spaced approximately a metre apart. These hooks are the ones that you can get in bike shops for storing bikes with and typically cost less than £10. The rope has to be fairly thick, 20mm or thereabouts. With both pieces of rope you need to put a loop around each end and tied with a simple knot. Length depends on your ceiling height, with one loop going from the hook, around the saddle and back up to the ceiling. The other loops around the stem in the same way. When the bike is suspended from the hooks and rope it needs to be level and with the brakes just below your eye-line.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working on the bike (whilst it is hanging from the ceiling) there are situations when you will have to steady the bike, there are also a few tasks (such as removing a crank) when the improvised 'stand' may not be up to the forces you apply to it, requiring you to drop the bike to the ground to get 'a bit more purchase).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two-hooks method gives you better access to the whole bike as there is no stand in the way. This is particularly useful when setting up the gears. Another benefit is that you do not have a stand molesting your paintwork as can happen with those stands that have cheap jaws. Perhaps the greatest benefit though is speed. To hook the seat through the loop of rope and feed the second rope around the stem takes seconds, with a proper posh stand this can take a lot longer, which is not that fun if the bike is heavy or the front wheel flops around a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T23:56:18.157" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-20T03:49:11.700" Score="2" ViewCount="14776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000G1YO2I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CoPilot&lt;/a&gt; kids bike seat and the instructions say that it requires a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BNS2U6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blackburn EX-1&lt;/a&gt; rack. But will my Schwinn bike rack do the trick, safely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmWaA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2011-05-20T06:03:50.030" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T16:32:52.283" Title="Do I need a Blackburn bike rack for my CoPilot Limo kids seat, or will the vintage Schwinn rack do?" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3831" CreationDate="2011-05-20T04:12:41.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikedock.com/custom/pdf/08/CoPilot/Co-Pilot_Taxi_manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;user manual&lt;/a&gt;, the Blackburn rack is required. The seat snaps in to the rack, so the old Schwinn rack won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uUFeN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zm7Jh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T04:12:41.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3831" CreationDate="2011-05-20T04:49:44.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's almost certainly cheaper and easier to just buy the correct rack, as well as safer. The risk of wrecking the seat is IMO too high.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You almost certainly can't attach that seat to that rack while keeping your warranty intact or maintaining any way to transfer legal liability away from yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think the rack is strong enough to hold the seat and child, and it physically fits over the rack, it would be relatively straightforward to mount. Drill mounting holes to allow you to drop dome or flat head bolts through, then put metal strips under the rack to accept those bolts and hold the seat onto the rack. There are a lot of judgement calls to make during this process, but I have seen it done (and been asked to repair a seat held on like this that had obviously been used a lot). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecologycentral.com.au/online-shop?page=shop.product_details&amp;amp;flypage=flypage.tpl&amp;amp;product_id=86&amp;amp;category_id=57&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some baskets are help on like this&lt;/a&gt;, but obviously they're not designed to carry babies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/95ZQx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear basket with rack mount strips&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether this is safe depends on a whole lot of things. Safety is relative, and compared to just balancing the child on the rack this is very safe indeed. But compared to using the proper rack.. not very safe. And possibly not a lot cheaper - you could end up spending as much on bolts, steel strips and tape/padding as the proper rack costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T04:49:44.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2011-05-20T08:26:34.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Park Tools Folding Repair Stand and have found it very sturdy and reliable. Also collapses to a reasonable size to go in the shed (hung up next to the ladders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/park/pcs10-folding-repair-stand-ec007643&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Evans Cycles: Park PCS10 Folding Repair Stand&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T08:26:34.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3816" CreationDate="2011-05-20T11:49:04.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree very much with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3816/what-do-you-do-when-a-bus-stops-in-front-of-you/3819#3819&quot;&gt;Mathew's answer&lt;/a&gt; but would add a few extra points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is often the case that in city centre traffic - particularly where there are cycle lanes - that you will be much quicker than the bus between stops and traffic lights as you will not be limited by the queuing traffic as much. In the city centre there are a few other things to take into account. Has the bus stopped in front of you because of a bus stop, or because of queuing traffic? If you can't see what is in front of the bus, it may not be safe to overtake as you may not be able to pull back in to the correct lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a cycle lane and there is queuing traffic in front of the bus, you may want to use the cycle lane to undertake the bus (assuming it is not at a stop). In this case, make sure that you can see a clear cycle lane in front of the bus and that there are no left turns coming up. Even then be extremely cautious. Undertaking buses (and lorries) which are about to turn left is the main way cyclists are killed in London. Untertaking you can easily end up in a blind spot and because of the turning circle of a bus (or lorry) you will be crushed if they do turn left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T11:49:04.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3780" CreationDate="2011-05-20T11:54:09.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have used a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/co-pilot/cycle/child-seats/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Co-Pilot bike seat&lt;/a&gt; for some time and have found it to be excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quick to fit and release (30 seconds maybe). It looks to be a good deal cheaper in the UK than the one you've found in NYC, not sure where your nearest stockist is, but you can pick them up on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000G22QHW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; for $99 currently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T11:54:09.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3779" CreationDate="2011-05-20T11:56:19.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need a hard case, that may just encourage the baggage handlers to treat your bike more roughly. Read this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/2011/apr/21/taking-bikes-on-planes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article on the Guardian by Helen Pidd&lt;/a&gt; on an economical way to transport a bike. Of course, she may just have been lucky!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T11:56:19.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3875" CreationDate="2011-05-20T12:12:01.157" Score="1" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last Winter I bought some waterproof overshoes on the internet to keep my feet dry on the daily commute. Unfortunately these overshoes fastened with a velcro strap which fastened underneath the shoe obscuring the cleats in both my road shoes (SPD-SL) and mountain bike shoes (SPD). I managed to get by tucking the velcro straps inside the overshoes and wearing them loose, but they have never really stayed secure that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend some waterproof overshoes that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your feet dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit snugly and don't come undone on a ride or catch on the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have fittings which don't obscure cleats and work well with clipless pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are reasonably priced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T04:18:31.160" Title="Which waterproof overshoes would you recommend for use with clipless pedal shoes?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3838" CreationDate="2011-05-20T14:27:23.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For serious winter riding (I rode for 12 years all year round in Toronto, Canada, and while we had reasonable weather, it did get wet, cold, and icky a lot) I gave up on clipless, and just used platforms with a pair of hunting boots!  Canadian Tire sold -40C and -70C versions.  (I rode in -35C in the -70C pair, and I gotta say, my toes were quite comfy!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tuck a pair of ski pants or waterproof pants over the tops, and that was the driest I ever attained in bad weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They bend surprisingly well so pedaling is not the issue, and you have good stability in bad weather.  You know, if you are sliding, and put down both feet with those big boots, you might still slide a distance, but you can control it better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never tried anything like you suggest, as based on other waterproof clothes, once it gets wet enough, nothing is water proof.  Everything has holes, seals, zippers, seams, etc...  They help, no argument, but not all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T14:27:23.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3838" CreationDate="2011-05-20T19:32:28.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are in the UK, may I recommend one of my favourite brands?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the Endura neoprene ones, neoprene works great at any temperature above -5 degrees when they suddenly give up on keeping you warm. You can also wash them and they will take the abuse. The Endura ones are widely available, made in the Far East rather than Scotland (where the posh Endura coats are made).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want budget, what shoe size are you? Far too often overshoes can get in the bargain bin of a bike shop as the middle sizes sell out leaving dwarf and giant sizes only. Look out for some bargain bin Altura (or other make/models). Get lucky and you can pick up a set for £10 from a shop that does road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T19:32:28.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="170" CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:11:41.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on where you live, however, in the UK the cycling season is May to September. Nowadays, in the UK, Christmas is a minor blip, not a sales extravaganza as people wanting kids bikes go to non-specialist shops and get something cheap.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Much like how Christmas comes earlier and earlier every year, so it is with 'next year model' bikes. As a consequence you can have two model years in the showroom. Sometimes the model range is tweaked (e.g. Ridgeback) or all new (e.g. Giant). Tweaked model ranges tend not to precipitate a sale price on the old models, all new model ranges can result in sale prices for the old ones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the above, February is probably the best month, i.e. when the local bike shop is most wanting any money in the cash register for cashflow reasons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, do you really want the bike that nobody else wanted, the one that has already seen a few test rides and been knocked about a bit? It can be a case of buyer beware but definitely worth looking out for. However, given that the new bike will hopefully be your pride and joy, consider getting a new bike, in your size, on special order so that it is truly brand new. If you have the mechanic skills try to get the bike in the box rather than assembled. Some shops will give you a fair discount for that if you have the ability to convince them that you can set it up all by yourself. Check the contents of the box when you collect it, take it home and have fun setting up the bike perfectly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T20:11:41.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="228" CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:37:03.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the urban commute you do not want to be constantly degreasing and lubing the drive chain. Simply keep it lightly oiled so that it is lubricated but not attracting dirt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have normal rim brakes then you will collect that evil dirt on the wheels/rims from braking and this can be hard to shift with soapy water. What you need is washing powder, that stuff you put in the washing machine. Put a small quantity in a bucket of hot water and, with the clean water, give the frame a going over with a soft cloth or sponge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a small screwdriver and clean what you can from in between the sprockets, jockey wheels and chainset. Pedalling backwards whilst holding the screwdriver in place should lift off most of the built-up debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now give the components a quick once over, recommended tool being a brush in the hot washing-powder enhanced water. Use nothing too abrasive, the brush from a dustpan and brush will suffice and can be replaced/disposed affordably.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now do the wheels. The washing powder should work wonders lifting off the evil black stuff. You can hopefully get in between the spokes and do the sides quickly if you spin the wheels round.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can wash the bike with clean water. Cold is more eco-friendly. Have a look underneath to make sure you have not missed too much. Bounce the bike a few times to get most of the water drops off and then give it a quick dry down with a cloth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an oily rag go over the hex bolts and other areas where you need a light coating of protection from rust. Put your favourite lube on the chain and spray minute quantities of 'GT85' on brake pivots, gear mechanisms and catch the excess with a cloth, making extra sure that none of it gets on the rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T20:37:03.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3850" CreationDate="2011-05-20T21:36:01.053" Score="3" ViewCount="6329" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably best to not go through the specific components on my bike, however, the sprockets, chainset, jockey wheels and chain need replacing due to excessive wear. Coupled with that, the cables are in need of replacement too. The rear rim is wearing a bit thin so a new wheel might also be prudent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done some back of the envelope calculations and the parts bill alone comes to 2/3 the price I paid for the bike originally. Hence, do I just get a new bike? If I do, can I just throw the old one away without any qualms about wasting what is a nice bike, albeit worn out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T02:49:15.580" Title="The drivetrain on my bike needs replacement, given the cost, do I just get a new bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3844" CreationDate="2011-05-21T14:04:00.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted by Neil.  What's the bike worth?   I refurbish a lot of bikes that are in need of such repairs; I won't bother with them unless I can sell them for enough to cover the cost of parts and such.&#xA;And I do all the work; don't even figure that into the calculation.  Shops of course must, mechanics have to eat.&#xA;Are you planning to do the work yourself, or have it done at shop rates?  Does your crankset have replaceable chainrings, or must you replace the entire crank?&#xA;Idlers for the DR are dead cheap....IF you can find the right ones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about an entry-level bike, I'd consider donating it and treating myself to some new wheels...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-21T14:04:00.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-21T17:01:01.487" Score="18" ViewCount="44192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to say I am not a fan of quick-release, especially for seats. I do not need to raise and lower my seat nearly enough (almost never) to justify the annoyance of having to take my seat with me or worry that anyone could just walk past and take it with no tools while my bike is locked up somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My local bike shop has locks that you can put on quick release seats that make it so you require a special key, but they run something like $50 which seems too steep to me!  I could also just replace the quick release part with a regular bolt, which might be the way to go, but still somewhat insecure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just looking for feedback or recommendations on reasonably inexpensive ways to secure seats and wheels for some piece of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="888" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T17:18:41.180" Title="Protecting quick-release seats and wheels from theft" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2011-05-21T19:01:42.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if they are still available, but it used to be you could buy a rather simple device...  Likely not hard to make one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, a &quot;star-fangled nut&quot; was inserted into the bottom of the seatpost, and an eyebolt screwed into that.&#xA;Then, a short length of steel cable ending in a plug that was a bit smaller than the seat-tube diameter.&#xA;Finally, an extra-long cap screw for the water-bottle cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drive the star-fangled nut into the seat-post opening, attach the cable and plug, and drop it into the seat tube.  Screw in the replacement water-bottle-cage bolt... Viola!  An invisible security system.&#xA;Or you could just toss the QR and replace it with a bolt; few thieves seem to carry tools...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-21T19:01:42.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2011-05-21T20:40:18.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to thread a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000PFT196&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fairly standard cable lock&lt;/a&gt; through the rails of the saddle and the rear wheel to secure them to the frame. Use another lock to secure the front wheel to the frame and something immovable - preferably a fixed bike rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the cables are thick enough to deter your local class of bike thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with you about quick release on the seat being pretty much a waste of time. Once set, I rarely adjust my seat height! Replace with a standard bolt to simplify. Quick release on wheels though is invaluable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-05-21T20:40:18.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2011-05-21T23:01:35.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinheadlocks.com&quot;&gt;Pinhead lock&lt;/a&gt; to lock my wheels, while parked on the side-walk for the last few months, and it hasn't been stolen yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-05-21T23:01:35.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3844" CreationDate="2011-05-22T01:27:20.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the appropriate question is not what you paid for the bike, but what it will cost you to replace it. Almost any bike can be repaired (although the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;grandfathers axe&lt;/a&gt; problem also occurs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's worth doing the quotations yourself. Go over the bike properly and work out which parts need to be replaced, what tools (if any) you will need to buy, and what that will all cost. Then look at the cost of a working second hand or new bike. One advantage of the new(er) bike is that it doesn't have to be the same as your existing bike - if you've been wanting a bigger frame or something the new(er) bike can have that. Of course, a second hand bike will probably also need bits fixed up, which is something to add to the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My expectation is that unless your current bike was fairly good to start with that a new bike will work out cheaper. But if you enjoy working on your bike you should count some of the cost as entertainment (I am building a four poster bed and selling it to my partner this way :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-22T02:49:15.580" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T02:49:15.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3853" CreationDate="2011-05-22T09:00:01.583" Score="32" ViewCount="15664" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the Mountain bike I have, pedalling backwards moves the chain but doesn't drive the wheels of the bike backwards like you would expect it to. Why is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2016-10-07T22:08:55.180" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T13:14:54.327" Title="Why does pedalling backwards not move my bike backwards?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3851" CreationDate="2011-05-22T10:58:58.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The freewheel allows forward pedalling to lock and drive the bike, but spins freely when reversed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some BMX style bikes (and kids bikes) have coaster brakes, where if you pedal backwards (well usually they do not actually pedal backwards, just the motion is begun) and it brakes the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember well locking the back wheel and trying to generate skid marks on the sidewalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T10:58:58.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3851" CreationDate="2011-05-22T14:06:30.863" Score="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you hear a &quot;tick&quot; sound every time you spin the wheel anti-clockwise? that's the freewheel mechanism composed by two small parts called &quot;pawls&quot; and when you spin it on that direction, those pawls turn loosely until they find the &quot;dent&quot; in the inner mechanism (the ratchet body), that's when the &quot;tick&quot; sound happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZycDd.png&quot; alt=&quot;pawls&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you ride your bike, those two pawls do exactly the opposite, they catch the &quot;dents&quot; and force the inner mechanism to rotate! it's wonderfully ingenious and simple at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NtzjM.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;dent&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've disassembled and assembled several and it amazes me every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T14:06:30.863" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="318" CreationDate="2011-05-22T16:12:38.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably want to take loads of stuff if you are touring from 'Angola to Burkino Faso via the Cameroon' with a whole bunch of people as 'tour guide', however, here is my recommended list for solo tours in 'first world' countries:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scalpel blade in sealed pouch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tape to patch oneself up with, inch wide variety suffices.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small pouch of cleaning wipes ('Handy Andies').&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aspirin tablets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mobile phone, money and debit card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fleece jacket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;T-Shirt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pen Knife with tweezers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scalpel blade is for tidying up gravel rash, the tape to bandage oneself up with. I keep both of these items in the handlebar bag front pocket for ease of access. Sometimes I get a bit faint if I look at a 'flesh would' and it is helpful to be able to patch up the damage quickly without having to look at it for any longer than needed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the other items are 'in stock items' carried anyway. Warm clothing, i.e. the fleece jacket is important for those times when one's body does not do a good job of keeping itself warm. The spare T-shirt can be used for a larger scale bandage, in conjunction with the tape. Water is obviously useful for cleaning oneself up with, as are the cleaning wipes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aspirin does have an effect on blood and how quickly it clots, some people may want to take a different headache relieving drug, e.g. paracetamol. I don't have many headaches but I do carry a couple of aspirin tablets in my wallet out of habit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pen Knife is a 'dual use' item for general camping, however, the tweezers have came in handy many times, hence a mention.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately I have only suffered 'flesh wounds' on tour (and mountain biking). I have yet to use the surgical scalpel blade but it weighs next to nothing so it gets carried. Only the tape is a real necessity, having proven its worth in the field.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that the sports-injury brace is cited by others here, I have never needed such an item ever, on the bike or off it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my first ever tour I did carry lots of stuff that others thought I should take and I bought into the 'better safe than sorry' risk-averse thinking. Three days in and I dumped off a lot of things that were not necessary and the 'elephant sized' bandages and other silly gubbins had to go. It came down to realistic basics for the first aid supplies - some tape to patch myself up with and the sterile scalpel blade in case of gravel rash problems.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T16:12:38.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3864" CreationDate="2011-05-22T17:23:23.963" Score="55" ViewCount="55995" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disk brakes are becomming more popular on bikes now, and I was just wondering what the advantage is of this type of brake over the older rim brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1529" LastActivityDate="2017-10-28T21:38:10.013" Title="What is the practical advantage of disk brakes over rim brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="18" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2011-05-22T19:23:08.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number.  Generally, they are unaffected by wet conditions, whereas rim brakes can get dicey in the wet.   As well, for off-road bikes, they are less susceptible to mud, dust, and sand, and the attendant rim wear as well as poor braking.&#xA;Also, on long descents or downhill sections, there is no danger of rim-heating and tire failure.&#xA;Downside... You need purpose-made fork legs and wheel hubs to handle 'em , and the entire assembly is perhaps a bit heavier than traditional rim brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are seeing these now on even mid-level mountain bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and you don't have to wrestle large-size tires through a tight-fit when remounting the wheel.  Even with quick-release, some tires will just barely clear the brakes when putting a repaired flat back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T19:23:08.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2011-05-22T19:58:10.910" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like disc brakes for these reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they're easier to keep oil off than rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bent wheels don't rub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easier to adjust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easier to get wheels in and out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;my rims don't wear out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;oh yes, they stop well too, but that's my last reason, not first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="751" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T19:58:10.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2011-05-22T20:07:11.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commuting bike has discs - I think they're great (for &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3855/what-is-the-practical-advantage-of-disk-brakes-over-rim-brakes/3858#3858&quot;&gt;these reasons)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight is an issue, but I think the downsides outweigh (sorry!) that - but it's fairly flat around here and I'm doing it for the exercise anyway!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="751" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T20:07:11.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3861" CreationDate="2011-05-22T21:02:06.203" Score="9" ViewCount="4341" Body="&lt;p&gt;When should I consider changing tyres due to age? The tyres in question are five/six years old Continentals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastEditorUserId="1119" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T20:42:19.270" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T01:53:02.283" Title="When is a good time to change tyres due to age?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3860" CreationDate="2011-05-22T21:24:45.873" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can tell a tire is ready to be changed when the rubber is brittle or when you're losing tread. I've found that tires that haven't been used or many years can sometimes get cracked and the rubber loses its flexibility, particularly in the sidewalls. If a tire is decades old, still has tread, and the rubber feels flexible, there's no reason to not use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T21:24:45.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2011-05-22T23:34:42.990" Score="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep it Simple&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not everyone knows how to setup and maintain disc brakes. I know that it does not take a lot of work to read the manual but people sometimes prefer to stick to what they know and are hesitant to purchase a bike they do not feel they can confidently work on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flawed Technology&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes are far from perfect. We all should know that the front disc brake design on most mountain bikes that have discs is flawed. Apply the brake and the force wants to shoot the spindle out of the dropout or at least push the wheel across to one side. 'Lawyer lips' go some way to remedy what is a far from sound design but you do not want 'lawyer lips' on a road bike (even if they are mandatory on new bikes).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fair weather cycling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bicycles are designed for fair weather cycling in California, not year round riding in Scotland. They do not have mudguards and their owners are unlikely to ride in the rain. Mudguards have been around for almost as long as the bicycle yet very few bikes are sold in wet places, e.g. the UK, with mudguards. With this, the simplest wet-weather adaptation, not considered a good idea by the cycle trade, why include disc brakes?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strong/Light/Cheap - have any two of the three&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything on the bike is a choice of strong/light/cheap - have any two of the three. When it comes to brakes light and cheap are the preferred options except for with a few niche bikes specifically designed for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not much point with the rear brake&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When decelerating the centre of gravity moves forward. (Some people learn this the hard way by going over the handlebars.) Even with poorly maintained rim brakes in the pouring rain it is relatively easy to lock up the back wheel, resulting in an uncontrolled skid. This may take 5-10 metres to do in very wet conditions, what possible benefit could there be in having a rear disc brake that has the potential for an even quicker 'loss' of rear braking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Contact patch with the road&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tyres are where the real braking happens and on a road bike you have coin sized contact patches with a smooth surface. This contrasts with the mountain-bike situation where you have chunky tyres and an uneven surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inherently weaker wheels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disk brake takes up space in the hub. As a consequence the spokes are not spaced as far apart. This loss of 'dish' means that a disk brake equipped wheel is not as strong.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As mentioned by kevins there is also a problem with slowing down just the middle of the wheel with the disc brake, twisting the wheel and going against how the spoked wheel works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, a disk brake on the rear is not needed (given that maximum braking on the rear wheel can be readily achieved with a rim brake) and a disk brake on the front is flawed (due to how it pushes the spindle out of the fork dropout with current designs). Then it is going to cost more, weigh more and impose a learning hurdle come maintenance time. Plus you have lost the design elegance of the rim brake and the forces placed on the spokes are plain ugly. &#xA;Admittedly there is more control when braking on discs and there isn't that scary feeling of 'my brakes are not working whatsoever' when applying the brakes in the wet but most bikes are designed for fair weather cycling in daylight hours and anyone experienced at riding in the wet soon learns to ride within the limits of their brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there really was a problem with rim brakes on bikes then the papers would have corresponding tales of woe. Actually there have been more stories of woe regarding front-wheel ejection from disk brake equipped bicycles over the last few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-12-16T15:41:48.833" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T15:41:48.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2011-05-22T23:57:27.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know what size seat post you need for your bike? Write it down so that you can order a replacement easy enough after it has been stolen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned this the hard way - parked up overnight outside a friend's flat, someone came along and took my seat + post. I was annoyed and I did not find it so easy to quickly get a replacement. If I could have just phoned around the local shops I would have located a 26.8 mm seat post that bit quicker. (As it was I paid over the odds for a smaller seatpost and shim, plus I had to ride seat-less).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot to recommend in Sam's tip of a low-security 'standard' cable lock coupled with a D-lock. You can do better than that still if you can get the ABUS 'Partner Pack'. This is a D-lock and a cable lock that share the same key. On your trip to/from work where you have a safe place to park you can carry just the lighter cable lock and use that to secure your bike for the few minutes stopping off on the way back to pick up groceries. Then, if you go into the center of town and have to park where you really do not want to then the D-lock and cable can be brought to lock up as Sam describes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my mountain bike I have the special five-sided allen-key with special undoing handle-thingy. This is great in principle and I have never had my wheels or seat stolen on that bike thanks to those bolts. However, there have been a couple of occasions when I have needed to get somewhere quickly and gone for the taxi/back of friend's car option only to find that I left the special key behind and cannot disassemble the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Folding bikes are quite useful for 'theft strategy'. You can easily pull quite a lot off the bike with the quick release levers, including the seat and post. However, in reality, this does not happen because the folding bike can be put under a desk, parked in a pub, left at reception or even pushed around a supermarket in the trolley. Only a simple £5 combination lock is needed to deter casual theft during quick visits to shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-05-23T00:05:26.597" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T00:05:26.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2011-05-23T00:02:05.030" Score="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;Working backwards from how it works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not using the rim means the brake is unaffected by how straight the rim is, and heating the rotor doesn't affect the tyre. The rim is not worn away by braking and the rotor material can be selected entirely for its suitability for that one purpose. This also allows smaller clearance between pads and rotor, allowing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increased pressure between brake pad and rotor compared to rim brakes means disks are less affected by water or other contaminants. Pads can be made of harder material giving increased pad lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the brake caliper further away from the tyre means it's less affected by mud, and it can be made partly or fully enclosed to further sheild it. The rotor is also less likely to  hit obstacles as it's further from the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a hub brake makes unconventional designs possible. Single sided wheel mounts are the most obvious example, but some suspension systems are incompatible with rim brakes, and building a rim braked carbon composite wheel is much harder than building one to use a hub brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disk brakes can also be fitted to both sides of a wheel for increased heat dissipation, and it's easier to vary the design for different characteristics (weight, heat capacity, modulation etc). Doing that with a rim brake means the brake manufacturer has to start selling wheels as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These combine to make disk brakes more reliable and easier to maintain.It's also somewhat easier to remove and reinstall wheels as you don't have to release the brake first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T00:02:05.030" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2011-05-23T00:40:47.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They work even when it's wet (I think that's because rims get wetter because they're closer to the ground; and, because they have a bigger surface area, they take longer to dry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes that work when it's wet are especially useful when in traffic, or going downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good brakes might also be useful on a cycle path in the evening: it seems that small children may find a flashing front light attractive, and hurry into your path to get a better look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-05-25T14:08:36.790" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T14:08:36.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-23T02:05:35.383" Score="-5" ViewCount="1082" Body="&lt;p&gt;In France and Germany there are laws so that new bicycles have to come with lights. Presumably the French and Germans thought that this would be a good idea for road safety and there must be some statistics that prove these laws to not be a waste of time. Presumably these laws did not make cycling so expensive, killing the trade in new bikes and deterring people from cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Are there any statistics to show the effect of a change in the law to make lights mandatory with new bicycle sales?&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem for a cyclist is 'I did not see you mate' and one of the biggest complaints that the tin-box people have about cyclists is that they ride at night without lights. Given recent changes in legislation so that cars have to have daytime running lights, shouldn't new bicycles also have to have daytime running lights? Or mandatory lights that the cyclist must use at night and can use during the day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please put down your thoughts on mandatory bike lights and how this could be implemented. For instance, road bikes that are sold 'without pedals' currently do not have to comply with reflector legislation. Equally, bikes 'without pedals' could be sold without the mandatory lights.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An E.U. (or NAFTA) law could also impose a levy on imported bikes not supplied with lights with the levy being high enough that it is cheaper to supply the lights than pay the levy.&#xA;There is also a matter of wheel size, does a law need to apply to just adult bikes or 'anything that does not have stabilisers'?&#xA;Clearly there are requirements to be seen, but does a cyclist need mandatory lights to see with? Right now the approved lights in the UK are 4 candela, flashing 60-240 times a minute, constant flashing rate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bounty will hopefully be awarded for useful statistics and/or the makings of a draft UK law&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Reply from RoSPA regarding why they think lights do not need to be mandatory (see notes below)&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thank you for your email.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Our policy is not ‘bicycles do not need lights’. Of course cyclists need to use lights in the dark, and we state this very clearly in the first paragraph of the policy you quote. The last paragraph concerns the separate question of whether the law should be changed to require bicycles to be sold with lights already fitted, and we do not believe that there is evidence to support such a change in the law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Such a law would increase the price of bicycles, and presumably harm after sales of bicycle lights that are sold independently of bicycles because people would be less likely to purchase additional bicycle lights, if their bicycle already had lights fitted. It would also impose the cost of lights on cyclists who never ride in the dark, and so do not need lights.  The advantages would be that it would presumably decrease the number of cyclists riding in the dark without lights, although it would not guarantee this as lights can be removed, just like bells (when the law changed requiring bells to be fitted with new bicycles, people were free to take the bell off outside the shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You make an interesting point that the amendments to the Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations that permitted the use of LED lights (flashing or non-flashing) that are more reliable and have longer–lasting battery life mean that cyclists are more likely to use lights than previously. I can see some logic to this, but am not aware of any evidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The policy statement on cycle lighting was developed following a review of what little published research there is on the use of cycle lighting that we conducted in 1997 (copy attached). Obviously, this is all very old now, and we will look to see if there is any new research indicating that making it mandatory for cycle lights to be fitted to bicycles when they are sold would be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The latest research into cycling accidents, “Collisions Involving Cyclists on Britain’s Roads: Establishing the Causes”, TRL Report PPR 445, 2009, shows that 78% of cyclist accidents occur in daylight, but accidents in the dark on roads with no street lighting are more likely to be fatal. These accidents more commonly involve the cyclist being struck from the rear, and it is likely that lights, reflectors and high-visibility garments would help to prevent some of these. The same research estimated that ‘Cyclist not displaying lights in the dark or poor visibility” was a factor in 5% of fatal cyclist accidents, and 4% of cyclist accidents resulting in non-fatal injuries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I repeat, the question is not whether cyclists should use lights in the dark – there is no question that they should do so – but whether requiring bicycles to be sold with lights would decrease the number of cyclists riding in the dark without lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1997 doc to follow...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-05-24T13:54:57.907" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T17:02:31.233" Title="Do Mandatory Bike Lights at Point of Sale Save Lives?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-09-23T04:50:02.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3866" CreationDate="2011-05-23T02:59:52.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: I doubt it. Insofar as the law works it might save a few lives but it will discourage far more people from cycling (who are then more likely to die from lack of exercise as per &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.crikey.com.au/croakey/2010/05/07/bicycle-helmet-laws-are-failed-public-policy-says-public-health-expert/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;helmets&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see any real statistics, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesbelong.org/resources/stats-and-research/statistics/safety-statistics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; has a series of links to different stats and summarises them. It looks as though most accidents are &quot;I didn't see you&quot; rather than &quot;I looked but didn't see you&quot;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rospa.com/roadsafety/policy/statements/cycling.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RoSPA say &quot;There is no evidence to indicate that mandatory fitment of lights to bicycles at the point of sale would increase the usage of cycle lights in the dark. Accident data does not suggest that such legislation is justified. &quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Euro legislation has been around for quite a while and for the most part they have the bugs worked out. Copying the German laws would be an excellent place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My view is that it should not be mandatory to have lights during the day. That just adds another disincentive to something we should be encouraging. It's unlikely to cut down on complaints by motorists, any more than the mandatory helmet law in Australia did. I think it will have the opposite effect by providing another legitimate-sounding avenue to complain about. A more effective technique is to get the whinger to focus on the ways motorists irritate each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the basics of activism is that complying with ever-more-stringent restrictions does not placate the oppressor, instead it encourages further rules. Cyclists are not really oppressed, but we are definitely a minority. The same setup applies. I think you're better off setting up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Critical_Mass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Critical Mass&lt;/a&gt; in your area to give them something to whine about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-23T03:06:26.117" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T03:06:26.117" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3879" CreationDate="2011-05-23T07:17:44.777" Score="17" ViewCount="2849" Body="&lt;p&gt;On one of my recent ride, my bike broke down. My rear derailleur got pushed into the rims and broke. Since I have never gotten stuck like that before, I've never bothered to take anything with me other than food and drink.  I am not too proud to say I was stupid to do so. Since then, I've been searching for the things I should have on any sort of ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found some good &lt;a href=&quot;http://mountain.bike198.com/14-must-have-items-for-every-ride/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;resources&lt;/a&gt;, but I was hoping for a good resource on this website, but cannot find one. So, What are the most important things that every rider should carry? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(P.S. The answers would be better if they are categorized by type of ride e.g. road riding, touring, mountain biking, trail riding, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-07-16T19:44:42.907" LastActivityDate="2020-08-24T10:09:29.903" Title="What are the most important things to bring on a ride?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-05-23T07:23:52.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, I really regret not having a &lt;strong&gt;multi tool&lt;/strong&gt; with me. If I had it, I could have removed the broken derailleur and cut the chain to fit into a free wheel. At least, it would be enough until I reach a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="1789" LastEditDate="2012-07-16T05:28:28.097" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T05:28:28.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-05-23T09:01:34.200" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A mobile phone&lt;/strong&gt;. These days, irrespective of where you're riding, what you're riding and over what terrain or distance, there's no excuse for being deliberately out of contact. We can't guarantee being in an area of reception, but if you haven't got a phone you'll never know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, a huge benefit of smart phones are the apps that can do more than just call for assistance. e.g. I have an app which lists all bike shops in London, with maps, reviews and opening hours. A couple of times I've been stuck in the middle of somewhere unfamiliar and in need (after the second puncture of the day without a second spare tube): fire up the app, where's the nearest open shop and then it can lead you there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T09:01:34.200" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-23T09:03:48.093" Score="2" ViewCount="1269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently (2 months ago) bought my first set of clipless pedals (first pedals I have ever bought, just used default ones before).  Shimano M545.  All was well till this morning when I noticed that the left pedal has lost the bolt on the side that holds it together, (think its called the cap unit bolt).  This cap unit bolt and the washer bits have disappeared, presumably during a ride.  Here is a link to shimano's site that shows the pedal and the cap unit bolt bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0015-downloadFile.html/09)%20PD-M545%20and%20424%20Overhaul.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0015-downloadFile.html/09)%20PD-M545%20and%20424%20Overhaul.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to my local bike shop and they say they do not have a bolt for it.  Can this sort of thing be found / bought and replaced or do I have to replace the whole pedal?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought it from Wiggle and have just contacted them about the issue but wanted the advice from the community about how I can deal with this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T15:09:12.237" Title="shimano M545 left pedal cap unit bolt fallen off during use" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-05-23T10:53:25.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water&lt;/strong&gt; makes a big effect on how long you can last whilst touring. If you can, get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory/581#581&quot;&gt;water bladder&lt;/a&gt; that can fit inside your backpack, you can drink whilst you cycle without having to get of the bike and lose your momentum. Sport and energy drinks don't give quite as much &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=hydration&quot;&gt;hydration&lt;/a&gt; as water alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T17:28:49.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-05-23T11:24:12.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the road:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lights&lt;/strong&gt; even if you plan to be back in daylight. If you do have a mechanical problem and have to make repairs before you can keep going you may be riding later than you had planned and in fading light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On all rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Puncture repair kit&lt;/strong&gt; and/or &lt;strong&gt;spare inner tube&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T11:24:12.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3880" CreationDate="2011-05-23T11:27:23.430" Score="8" ViewCount="38917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Trek 4300 series MTB, but after only several weeks of use, I'm getting a clicking sound coming from both sides of the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems particularly pronounced when more torque is applied, e.g. going up a hill or when accelerating.&#xA;It seems to come from the pedal/pedal spindle area but it could be coming from the crank arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I go about identifying what the problem is and rectifying it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T18:26:30.540" Title="Clicking sound coming from pedals/pedal spindle/crank" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3838" CreationDate="2011-05-23T12:58:21.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to use the Endura neoprene overshoes commuting through the UK winters. They were very warm and good at keeping out the water, but they were way too fragile. They just about made it through a second winter but had little splits and tears all over them. I reckon they'd be excellent if you were just out for a long ride in the country, but if your commute involves traffic lights where you put your foot, down then sooner or later you'll kick the kerb or the pedal and tear the neoprene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's not quite what you asked for, my advice would be to splash out on some waterproof shoes. I hunted round for a bargain pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=58001&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Defrosters&lt;/a&gt; which are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/clothing/shoes/product/review-specialized-bicycles-bg-defroster-mtb-shoe-30858/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brilliant&lt;/a&gt; for winter MTBing and commuting - I probably wear them for half the year now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1534" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T12:58:21.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3874" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:07:43.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be as simple as tightening pedal spindle and in worst case you might need to replace a part (if you have ridden with loose parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually fix most of simple problems on my bikes, but on this one I would trust my LBS servicemen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T13:07:43.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3881" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:50:27.657" Score="8" ViewCount="21886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just read a review of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/pro-bike-tom-zirbels-jamis-xenith-sl-30352&quot;&gt;Tom Zirbel's Jamis Xenith SL on Bike Radar&lt;/a&gt; and flicking through the pictures &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gallery/article/pro-bike-tom-zirbels-jamis-xenith-sl-30352?img=1&amp;amp;pn=pro-bike-tom-zirbels-jamis-xenith-sl&amp;amp;mlc=news/article#9&quot;&gt;there is one of the head tube with the following caption&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tom Zirbel's (Jamis Sutter Home) Jamis Xenith SL features a tapered 1-1/8 to 1-1/2in head tube - especially useful in a frame of this size&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What benefits does a tapered head tube afford?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T11:15:43.427" Title="What benefits does a tapered head tube afford?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3874" CreationDate="2011-05-23T14:06:50.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar sounding problem but it was on a well-used bottom bracket.  I thought the bottom bracket was shot, but when I took it out it was fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I did was to reinstall it adding lots of grease to the inside of the lockring -- I think the clicking may have been some motion of the bracket inside the lockring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1506" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T14:06:50.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-05-23T14:11:38.080" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For repairs, I always carry with me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &lt;strong&gt;saddle bag&lt;/strong&gt; to conveniently carry all my supplies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &lt;strong&gt;multitool&lt;/strong&gt; for adjusting anything, fixing the chain, and anything else&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &lt;strong&gt;spare tube&lt;/strong&gt; to repair flat tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two &lt;strong&gt;CO2 cartridges&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;CO2 nozzle&lt;/strong&gt; to inflate my tires back up to high pressures; I bring two so if I waste one on a punctured tube, I have a backup on hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a pair of &lt;strong&gt;tire levers&lt;/strong&gt; to get a flat tire off a wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &lt;strong&gt;dollar bill&lt;/strong&gt; to fold up and place inside a tire if it gets punctured; this will prevent the replacement tube from bursting, too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &lt;strong&gt;patch kit&lt;/strong&gt; in case I get a hole in the replacement tire; this can happen if you can't find what caused the original flat tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this fits easily into my saddle bag, and lets me make it back home under almost any reasonable circumstance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T14:11:38.080" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3874" CreationDate="2011-05-23T14:29:03.127" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Papuass is correct - take it back to the shop as it is under warranty and they may have offered you a free service anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the complete checklist for future reference... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that you have a Shimano Altus chainset - a pressed steel number with no chainring bolts to come undone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for diagnosis, you are not getting the click when you are freewheeling - that is normally a simple check to do first.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, try different chainring - does the click only happen in the outer ring? This can be due to the front mech touching the crank. Also check the mech clears the outer ring with the cage staying away from the teeth.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now try the granny ring - this will not be using the same 'chainring bolts' and will identify if the problem is there - this I do not suspect in your case due to the construction of the chainset.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now try and pedal out of the saddle - do you still get the click? Sometimes the seat post can creak as you pedal and you need to check that is not it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stiff link? If the click on each power stroke then it is unlikely to be the stiff link going through the chainset as this will be  different each time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for checking the pedals. There should be a smidgen of grease on the pedals and inside the crank arms. With a 15mm spanner you can take them off, check the grease and put them back in again. The pedals should be in really tight, you may want to wear a tough glove whilst putting your pedals in/taking them out. This is because you can mangle your hand on the chainset quite easily doing this. Remember that the left hand pedal has a left hand thread and the right hand pedal has a right hand thread - it is important you turn the right way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the bottom bracket. Get a socket set - 15mm and check the crank arms are on massively tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the pedals for wear/general condition and decide whether you need to tighten up the bolts holding the cages onto the bodies. There should be some play with affordable pedals - the bearings do not have to be great - but if there is too much play consider tightening them up with the socket set, or, better still, just get a new set of pedals, maybe upgrading yourself to Shimano SPD/Time ATAC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that has not cured it then check the bottom bracket is inserted properly. The chances are that you will need brand specific specialist tools for this, including a crank removal tool. Again you will have left hand thread on one side and right hand side on the other side. Make sure you are not doing up when you think you are trying to take off the bottom bracket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With modern 'cartridge' bearing bottom bracket sets (you have one of these with octalink) it is unlikely to be penetrated with dirt/grime (giving rise to noise) but older square-peg bottom brackets can have problems with ball bearing cages falling to pieces and making quite a racket. Usually these can be repacked with new balls and grease, however, you might want to put in a new b/b - this will need to be the correct outer shell length and axle length - see your existing b/b for numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an outside chance that there may be something up with the frame, older cr/mo frames sometimes have a really basic tube for a bottom bracket that can make itself ovaloid over time. This you can only determine with the b/b fully stripped out and when you try to put it in again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With fairly accessible tools you can get most of the bolts tight, this may cure it and save you the 'trek' to the bike shop. Given your warranty situation you can return it to the shop and let them make a decision on how much they want to strip the bike down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T14:29:03.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3877" CreationDate="2011-05-23T14:47:28.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lighter and stronger are the real gains. Also there is coolness factor. In a rare move I wish to cite Richard Cunningham from &lt;a href=&quot;http://roadbikeaction.com/features/rba-features/what-exactly-are-the-advantages-of-a-dual-sized-headset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Road Bike Action&lt;/a&gt; for points 1 + 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look, who has the longest unbroken history of carbon fiber frame making in pro road racing, uses the tapered fork steerer design to eliminate the narrow waist at the junction of the fork crown and steerer. This allows their all-carbon HSC6 fork to be laid up as one unit and in a manner that keeps the unidirectional carbon filaments that support the structure flowing from the fork legs, through the crown and up the steerer tube in a smooth, unwrinkled matrix. The more uniformly that the fibers are aligned where the crown flows into the steerer tube, the stronger the fork will be in its most highly stressed area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look’s engineers also developed a tapered lower bearing interface that eliminates the stress concentration that a conventional notched-type crown race would cause. The bottom line for tapered road steerers is that, done correctly, it streamlines the manufacturing process and makes for a better one-piece carbon fiber fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T11:15:43.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2011-05-23T14:48:47.750" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use a U-lock, you can use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's lock strategy&lt;/a&gt; to lock at least your rear wheel along with the frame. This is the approach I use. Remember: the shorter the U-lock, the safer you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/locktechnique1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your front wheel, you can bring along a second U-lock, a cable, or use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pitlocks&lt;/a&gt;. For the saddle, simply switch away from a quick-release skewer to an allen head bolt and stop worrying about it getting stolen. You don't need to adjust your seatpost often enough to warrant the added risk posed by QR levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.543" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T19:47:00.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="827" CreationDate="2011-05-23T15:44:22.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Time for Time!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I ride Time ATAC (Auto Tension Adjustment Concept) pedals, however, I tend to recommend Shimano SPD for similar reasons that I would recommend Windows XP over Ubuntu as a starting point (you don't want to confuse people). Given no mention of Time pedals in this thread I best speak up...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time ATAC pedals are remarkably similar to the Crank Bros design, however, the Time pedals came first and the Crank Bros pedals are a johnny-come-lately version of the design (might be licenced). Crank Bros pedals can get in the way of the standard two-hole part of the shoe, needing extra spacers that are not what you want to be buying with future shoe/cleat sets. They also tend to be warrantied more than competing pedal brands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Time pedals have better patents than the SPD efforts and I don't think they will be licensing the elegant simplicity to Shimano any time soon. The guy who started Time was the guy that designed the original Look clipless pedals - also an enduring design classic that Shimano did licence.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time ATAC pedals come with various prices, the affordable models with cr-mo spindles will do nicely. Pedals have to take abuse and sometimes there is a lot to be said for cr-mo steel. I have the cheerful ones and I have never thought 'damn, wish I went for carbon fibre spindles instead!'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very hard to destroy Time ATAC pedals and there is no spring tension on the pedals to 'adjust'. They just clip in and that is it. You can put the brass cleats on the 'wrong shoes' to get a bigger release angle but I have not needed that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Time ATAC system is not ubiquitous, so you cannot always get the cleats. However, a bit of online shopping later and the cleats can be sent to your door for minimum post 'n' packaging.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In use I do not always click in. I hook the cleat in the front and pedal without clicking in fully. This gives you all the foot security you need in that your feet will not slip off the front or sides of the pedal. For more security I click one pedal in, for long distance, no-stop riding I click both pedals in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the realities of pedalling (even Tour de France riders on finest smuggled EPO do not pull up on the pedals) you should be able to start with the ATAC design and have only one pedal completely locked in. This will mean that you will not have to collapse on the pavement during a release (as happens with new SPD riders, usually horribly so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From riding ATAC I get a lot of 'float' that initially (ten or more years ago) seemed weird. However, nowadays I cannot stand riding on platform pedals that lock into your shoe/trainer. It does not feel right as repositioning the feet is not as easy or natural feeling. The SPD system does not have this float - newbies to them do have mishaps. In engineering terms it is simply inferior.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is fair to say that the basic Time ATAC pedals last forever with no need to even think about 'servicing'. I can see why Tour de France riders have those big SPD-SL/Look KEO pedals, but, if you have traffic lights to stop for then ATAC has so many advantages, chief being that you don't have to be locked in before you pedal away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Posh Shoes or Cheap Shoes?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I ride (and wear off bike) cheap and cheerful shoes by Shimano and Specialized. In fact I only have one set of shoes that do not have the cleat and would not consider getting 'pedestrian' shoes with flimsy, flexible soles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because shoes have to fit I do go to one of the commuter oriented bike shops in my area to get my next set of Shimano/Specialized shoes when the ones I have start to look a bit too scruffy. Because I have a fair few shoes with the cleat on I always have a dry set to wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your long term ambition should be to become a Sidi shoe fetish person, they have the best fit, the best materials and the best technology. You should only consider the high end models and, whilst you are at it, get the ones that are massively bling, e.g. in shiny red 'patent' synthetic leather. They do them for MTB two-whole cleat and work perfectly with Time ATAC. You can also replace the tread as the rubber bits bolt onto the carbon-layer sole. Due to material choice the Sidi shoes do not stink even if worn 24/7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T15:44:22.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3871" CreationDate="2011-05-23T15:58:29.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wiggle will do you a refund as well as a replace. There should be no problem with that as M545's are known to fall apart in the way you describe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you are looking for a pedal that works well with cleat and without cleat. I do not think the M545 does either job properly, and, as evidenced, can fall apart. They also do not work with some leading brands of 'SPD' footwear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would send them back and upgrade to the plain Time ATAC pedals, also available from Wiggle. These may not work too well with leather soled shoes in the wet, but you can get home from the pub with them and regular trainers without your feet slipping off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have updated the clipless pedal page with my own IMHO on Time Atac pedals:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/827/clipless-pedals-first-time-user-buyer&quot;&gt;What should I look for in clipless pedals and shoes?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T15:58:29.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-05-23T17:31:43.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;h3&gt; For a commuter: &lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good weather proof bag/trunk is essential when commuting from place to place. Weather you have to make a quick stop at the store after work or need a place to carry your gear no matter what mother nature has to offer a solid bag will make commuting so much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the one I use:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qsf2L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this one because like most Topeak products it clips on to my rack so I don't have to worry about it being secure, it has plenty or storage space, and I notice that it is slightly insulated so it will keep things like groceries cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T17:31:43.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:12:18.150" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number-one situation cyclists will face on a ride (aside from experiencing the awesomeness that is riding) is a flat tire. To fix that, you'll want either a &lt;strong&gt;spare tube&lt;/strong&gt; or a &lt;strong&gt;patch kit&lt;/strong&gt; -- or both. Of course, these are useless without something to pump them up! A frame pump or a C02 inflator will take care of that. Make sure to bring a cartridge for the C02 inflator. (They make devices that are both, but my experience is that they tend to do both jobs terribly.) Also, make certain you know how to change a flat. If pressure is important to you, get one with a &lt;strong&gt;pressure gauge&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools: Unless you're on a loaded touring bike, you'll want to keep your saddle bag light and bring along a &lt;strong&gt;multitool&lt;/strong&gt;, as opposed to full-sized tools. I won't recommend any one tool, but something that includes the three sizes of allen keys and a chain tool will handle nearly any situation you're going to repair by the side of the road: Broken spokes, a split chain, a loose rack, adjusting a slipped seat-post, a rattling fender. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Duct tape&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;electrical tape&lt;/strong&gt;: Wrap a small amount of it around a short pencil and toss it in your bag. You can use this to fix grip tape, repair a rip in a bag, or hold a headlight together. You can also toss a &lt;strong&gt;zip tie&lt;/strong&gt; in there while you're at it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spare &lt;strong&gt;batteries&lt;/strong&gt; are helpful if you have lights or a cycling computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always bring along a &lt;strong&gt;cell phone&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;first aid kit&lt;/strong&gt; is always a good idea. You can pare it down to the essentials, especially if you're on a supported ride, but it's a good idea to be able to take care of yourself until the sag wagon arrives. If you have a medic alert tag or a card, bring that as well. (I keep a tag on my body as well as one on the outside of my trunk rack bag.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water&lt;/strong&gt;: I can't stress this one enough. Bring as much of it as you can carry comfortably, and always fill up when you have the opportunity. Dehydration is no fun! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty minimalist kit. If you want advice on a kit for touring, there's a thread here on the site about just that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-23T20:38:54.837" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T20:38:54.837" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:15:39.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike is my main mode of transportation. As such, I installed a carry-all on the back. I keep a multi-tool, two spare tubes, spare batteries for the bike lights, a small hand-pump, and a basic wrench. This still leaves plenty of room in the carry-all for rain-gear, a light load of groceries, or whatever else I need to lug around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T18:15:39.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3860" CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:27:28.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cracked, stiff, brittle, or containing small puncture holes: if your older tires fit any of these four aspects, it's time to swap them out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would also ask yourself if you remember what those tires have been through. The tires may still be flexible and appear uncracked but be full of micro-cracks and punctures that you can't see with the naked eye. These small fissures can be disastrous when you're in the middle of a run. Spraying an inflated tire with soap &amp;amp; water can help find a leak, but many soaps will actually damage the rubber, making that technique counter-productive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're just planning to use the bike for a quick run to the corner store, remember the old adage: &quot;when in doubt, swap it out&quot;. If I obtain a &quot;used&quot; bike, or rescue one being tossed, replacing the tires and the tubes are the first things I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T18:27:28.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-05-23T19:21:46.417" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always keep some &lt;strong&gt;money&lt;/strong&gt; in my bag. It's useful to have some on you in case, for example, you forget to take some for parking or need extra food and there's a shop nearby. I've done both of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="446" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T19:21:46.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3893" CreationDate="2011-05-23T21:01:32.313" Score="21" ViewCount="27710" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a child I had solid rubber inner tubes in my bike. They were a pain to get on but after I never had a flat again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I've recently started biking again and have had two flats in two days, each resulting in a three-mile walk back home. I've been searching for solid rubber tubes for a few hours now, but have only found them at wal*mart, and they don't have the correct size? (700x38c)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why have they disappeared? I thought they were a fantastic product . . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1537" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-23T21:15:05.897" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T18:43:35.197" Title="Whatever happened to solid bike tubes?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3890" CreationDate="2011-05-23T21:10:58.883" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, they're harsh and hard on your wheels. A quick look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tyres.html#airless&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt; will tell you more: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Airless tyres have been obsolete for over a century, but crackpot &quot;inventors&quot; keep trying to bring them back. They are heavy, slow and give a harsh ride. They are also likely to cause wheel damage, due to their poor cushioning ability. A pneumatic tyre uses all of the air in the whole tube as a shock absorber, while foam-type &quot;airless&quot; tyres/tubes only use the air in the immediate area of impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, many shops will &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/222689-airless-bicycle-tires-review/&quot;&gt;discourage airless tires&lt;/a&gt;. It's certainly possible they may get better given time, though, so it's worth keeping an eye on the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address the other part of your question, they're still available, but a specialty item. I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=solid+rubber+bicycle+tires&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;nord=1&amp;amp;site=webhp&amp;amp;prmd=ivns&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=z8vaTfb9M8be0QGxmPn7Aw&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CGcQrQQ&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=679&quot;&gt;quite a few of them on Google Products&lt;/a&gt;, although finding them in 700x38 might be a challenge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T21:10:58.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3890" CreationDate="2011-05-23T21:49:00.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carry a flat-fixing kit.  You don't need much; patches, tire tools, something to inflate the tire again.  Small, light frame-mounted pumps are readily available, and if you don't want to pump, CO2 inflators.   You can even get hand-clean-up goo in handy little packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bit of practice you can be rolling in about the same time needed to change tires on your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, you can take preventive measures.   Avoid super-light tubes.  Keep your tires properly inflated.  Keep an eye out for visible hazards like potholes and broken car-window glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T21:49:00.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3890" CreationDate="2011-05-23T22:31:30.883" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not be getting multiple flat tires in such a short timespan. I commute on poorly-maintained roads in Atlanta, and have not had a flat tire in 4,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order of estimated likelihood, either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your tires are not properly inflated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your tires are worn or punctured and need to be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you have a sharp object embedded on the inside of your tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you are exceedingly unlucky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've just started cycling again, I think it's exceedingly probable that you've simply neglected to inflate your tires to their recommended pressure. Standard road tires should be inflated to pressures of 100PSI and beyond. Mountain bike tires (which are awful for road use, but I digress...) require much less. It's easy to grossly underestimate how much to inflate a bike tire, and a standard hand pump will likely only get you to 30-60 PSI before you give up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your bicycle to your nearest bike shop and have them examine the situation. Flat tires should not be a common occurrence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2011-05-24T13:16:27.797" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T13:16:27.797" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-05-24T01:24:44.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Portland, Oregon&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incredibly, the city in the US that's often considered the friendliest to cyclists seems to have &lt;strong&gt;no bike-sharing system&lt;/strong&gt;. There was &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_sharing_system#Current_programs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an informal program in the 90's&lt;/a&gt;, the Yellow Bike program, but it was officially abandoned. (Although, maybe &lt;a href=&quot;http://c2.com/ybp/story.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;that's not the case&lt;/a&gt;?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2008, they seemed to have &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeportland.org/2008/06/30/portland-wont-give-up-on-bike-share-system-8075&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;given up on it&lt;/a&gt;, but the city website is hopeful and says they're &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.portlandonline.com/transportation/index.cfm?c=50814&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;currently evaluating bike-sharing programs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T01:24:44.573" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-24T01:24:44.573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-05-24T01:48:58.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Melbourne, Australia&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system has yearly, weekly, and daily passes available. There are 50 stations available in the city, with a total of 600 bikes. Helmets are not supplied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theage.com.au/victoria/on-a-bicycle-built-for-x2026-more-than-two-20100531-wrd1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This June 2010 video&lt;/a&gt; tells you more about the bikes, but in case it goes away: The bikes are heavy, they have step-through frames, and are very, very blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.melbournebikeshare.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Melbourne Bike Share&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T01:48:58.367" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-24T01:48:58.367" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3901" CreationDate="2011-05-24T06:05:15.730" Score="16" ViewCount="14964" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two bikes with Brooks B-17 saddles on them: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My full-frame touring bike: The saddle has a nice patina of age, having been used for several tours and some commuting. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My Bike Friday Tikit folding bike: This one doesn't get used for rides of nearly the same length, mostly because I can use the bike with the nicely broken-in saddle. Also, this bike has a more agressive posture than the touring bike, and I keep more weight on my legs than on the saddle; could this be part of the reason the saddle isn't breaking in? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using proofride about every six months on both saddles. I've had the Tikit for over a year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question:&lt;/strong&gt; Is it possible to break in or age a B-17 more quickly? Right now, it feels more like plastic than leather, and isn't comfortable for rides of more than ten or fifteen miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, would attempting to age it and soften the leather damage the leather? Maybe a B-17 is the wrong saddle for this bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T07:17:27.540" Title="Brooks B-17 isn't breaking in, how to accelerate the process?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;leather&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3899" CreationDate="2011-05-24T08:03:53.990" Score="2" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sick of hearing guys, categorising their MTB as per the money they put on to it. Is it really that much, or their is something more like stronger, more aerodynamically built. So far, I have found expensive bikes to be more lighter and durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But still the question remains, what are the factors that affect more when categorising a bike. By categorising, I dont mean MTB, Road Bike, Down hill bikes. I mean what some refer to as as &lt;code&gt;High Level MTB&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Mid-Level MTB&lt;/code&gt; or some as &lt;code&gt;Tier-3 Bikes&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Tier-2 Bikes&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-24T08:12:04.033" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T10:49:30.873" Title="On what basis are bikes categorised?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3898" CreationDate="2011-05-24T11:24:21.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weight and durability are indeed factors, but it's also about the performance of components. The &quot;high level&quot; bikes are for a &quot;high level&quot; of performance. They're usually designed with competition in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shifting has to be perfect, the brakes need just the right amount of power, the suspension has all kinds of adjustments, tires specific to the terrain &lt;em&gt;on that day&lt;/em&gt; are used, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, Average Wealthy Joe will buy one of those bikes and brag about it, but hey, be happy he's financing your favourite bike companies. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T11:24:21.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3897" CreationDate="2011-05-24T11:54:57.170" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't the simplest answer be to switch the saddles between the bikes?  You'd probably end up using the less used bike more and the less broken in saddle more too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T11:54:57.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3897" CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:12:34.167" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Breaking in a leather saddle is a long and painful process sometimes. There are techniques such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/leather.html&quot;&gt;soaking it in oil&lt;/a&gt; for 30 min to an hour and then re-applying every few months, but nothing is going to work if you don't get your butt on your seat and ride. It can take as much as 1000 miles to break in a saddle. The best advice I can give is get a nice pair of bike shorts and ride a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember to put a coating of proofide on the underside of the saddle to prevent cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T13:12:34.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3920" CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:30:12.517" Score="20" ViewCount="15617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am shopping around for road bikes now, and I wanted to know what components to look for. I am not talking about the frame, carbon or otherwise, I mean types of shifters, brakes, cranks, rims, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-09-23T20:27:01.540" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T23:45:57.200" Title="What is the biggest component difference between a cheap road bike and an expensive road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3923" CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:34:08.510" Score="7" ViewCount="15814" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new chain for my bike and it came full of chain wax. I was wondering if this was a better lubricant then regular chain lube, or if it had some other qualities that the manufactures thought would be better than lube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-24T20:17:15.720" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T02:30:56.043" Title="What are the advantages and disadvantages to chain wax?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3922" CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:44:46.717" Score="2" ViewCount="3228" Body="&lt;p&gt;For all you mechanics out there I am sure you hate these things. Dust caps are the bane of my existence. They are cheap and bend easily. I want to get a better sturdier one for a bike I am working on. What do I want to look for? Is it just the sizing of the crank that matters or are there other factors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T00:43:32.037" Title="How to upgrade a dust cap?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:08:39.700" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are your favourite regional online websites or blogs relating to mapping or routing that you find useful and accurate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;See also:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1168/what-are-the-most-useful-or-interesting-cycling-related-websites-or-blogs&quot;&gt;What are the most useful or interesting cycling-related websites or blogs?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please vote up or down based on the accuracy/usability of these services and post one website link at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T10:30:55.740" Title="Useful and accurate mapping websites: United Kingdom" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;reference&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-24T14:29:34.933" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3909" CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:38:06.870" Score="19" ViewCount="14545" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all know that SPD shoes can be worn off the bike (that is why they were designed), however there are not many SPD shoes that you would want to wear off-bike. There are even fewer (if any) SPD shoes that look presentable in a smart workplace. As for getting into one of those nightclubs with a strict 'your name's not down' door policy, as things stand, no SPD shoe would get you past the bouncers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do know of any SPD shoes that look like normal 'interview grade' work-shoes please tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have looked for such a shoe and not found anything remotely appropriate, what would be in your dream specification? A gore-tex liner? Reflective heel tab? Carbon-fibre reinforced toe-box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also interested in SPD shoes that you can and do wear to work and at work, particularly if they look completely different to the &lt;em&gt;'Shimano Golfing Shoe'(TM)&lt;/em&gt; / &lt;em&gt;'Bling innit'&lt;/em&gt; efforts foisted on the cycling public.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some people do not see any point whatsoever in a SPD shoe that you can wear all day or as part of a mixed transportation journey (e.g. cycle to the train station, catch the train and/or tube...) - it is different strokes/different folks. Some of us want to ride like the Dutch do - everywhere and all the time - but with some decent SPD pedals and sensible footwear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2011-06-13T08:35:11.953" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T20:12:09.753" Title="SPD shoes that look like normal shoes" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:04:36.123" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I interviewed at a large corporation wearing Shimano M076s, and got the job. In fact, I'm wearing them at my desk right now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/shoes/mtb/product.image.+media+images+cycling+products+actionsports+SH+SH-M076_600x450_v1_m56577569830655087_dot_jpg.bm.512.384.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/shoes/mtb/product.image.+media+images+cycling+products+actionsports+SH+SH-M076_600x450_v1_m56577569830655087_dot_jpg.bm.512.384.gif&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T15:04:36.123" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3905" CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:29:08.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;CycleStreets&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CycleStreets&lt;/a&gt; is a UK-wide cycle journey planner system, which lets you plan routes from A to B by bike. It is designed by cyclists, for cyclists, and caters for the needs of both confident and less confident cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The service looks to be free, however, funding issues are causing the site's development to be slow, and they accept &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net/donate/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;donations&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The site is currently in beta, and has gaps in coverage. There's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2010/sep/24/cyclestreets-satnav-app-iphone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iPhone app&lt;/a&gt; for the site, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net/blog/2010/09/24/cyclestreets-mobile-platforms/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an Android app&lt;/a&gt; was in development last year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most useful feature, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net/journey/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Journey planner&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; provides information you would normally get from any free mapping service, turn-by-turn directions, journey time and distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also gauges the quietness of the route based on how much of the journey is based on cycle paths and roads, provides an elevation profile and the ability to import your journey to Google Earth or export it to a GPS device&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T15:44:39.377" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-24T15:29:08.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:37:35.050" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keenfootwear.com/us/en/product/shoes/men/pedal/austin%20pedal/shitake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Austin Pedal shoes by Keen&lt;/a&gt; to work at my government office every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're a fine shoe—they look decent and accept SPD's.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They aren't anything special.  There is no gore-tex liner (I think it'd be overkill for my commute most days).  There is no reflective tab, though that would be nice.  There is no carbon-reinforced toe-box—also probably overkill for my commuter shoe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that they are a pretty good match for what they do.  I have worn them to symphony, job interviews, and meetings with the higher-ups.  No worries.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that, since you really are polling, I would suggest that I wish that they came in more colors!  It would be nice if there were more options.  I purchased these specifically because they didn't look like cycling shoes—not that I think cycling shoes are distasteful.  I did want something that I could wear around though, that would never be a potential distraction for others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastEditorUserId="1789" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T20:12:09.753" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T20:12:09.753" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:42:41.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure where to get them in the US but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000XD019E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trans X QR axels&lt;/a&gt; are cheap and cheerful.  I'm using them and they do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two versions, one is a regular Allen key type, and the other is a 'security' design which is basically a pentagon Allen key like design that requires the tool they provide.  It's secure by virtue of less people having the tool, rather than by it being a proper type of key.  I have both and they are okay for a budget axel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do a seatpost bolt with that too.  Alternatively you could replace your whole seatpost clamp with a non QR one but that would cost more than I suspect you want to spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T15:42:41.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:49:27.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a folding bike that, in order to fold completely, needs to have a quick-release seatpost.  Unfortunately, in order for it to be comfortable, it also needs to have a fairly nice saddle (Brooks B67).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to protect my saddle, I use a two-foot-long piece of 1'4&quot; nylon-sheathed steel cable.  On one end, I have it permanently fixed into a loop around the seatstay with an aluminum ferrule.  The other end is permanently fixed into a loop around the rail of the saddle with another ferrule.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thief could certainly pop that cable and walk away with my seatpost.  I think it just as likely for a thief to have a pair of bolt-cutters as an allen-key, though--and my saddle is only afixed to the bike with an allen screw even if you set aside the quick release.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total cost of that setup is about $5.  Tools required include a cable-cutter, razorblade, crimping tool (or an anvil and hammer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wheels on that bike are bolt-on.  My other bikes, I use Pinheads, as @ChrisW suggested.  I have been happy with the Pinheads.  Their price is worth it to keep my good wheels around.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T15:49:27.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3915" CreationDate="2011-05-24T17:40:46.673" Score="8" ViewCount="7104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have recommendations for clipless pedals that can be used with regular shoes?  I only have 1 bike, but I use it enough that I think clipless pedals would offer a nice advantage.  However, I want to be able to just hop on my bike with any shoes, in the event that I'm just biking a short distance, and going to be walking around a lot.  I suppose I could get shoes that are more walking friendly, but I think it would suit me more to have pedals which accomodate both clipless and regular shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-24T19:51:54.270" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T20:11:01.193" Title="Recommendations for clipless pedals that can be used with regular shoes" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3905" CreationDate="2011-05-24T17:49:12.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Sustrans&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sustrans.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sustrans&lt;/a&gt; has created a network of 12,600 miles of walking and cycling routes across the UK. This includes a mixture of quiet lanes, on-road routes and traffic-free paths that are often a great way to get to work, school, the shops or just for exercise and fun. The Network is available to everyone and passes within a mile of 57% of the population.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live in the UK you can order a free information pack which includes a map of national cycle routes for your area and a leaflet for making the most out of your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sustrans created the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Cycle_Network&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;National Cycle Network&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T17:49:12.957" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-24T17:49:12.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3912" CreationDate="2011-05-24T18:00:10.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd get a pair of Shimano SPD pedals and get the 'snap on' flats for one side. You'll only be able to clip on one side then but you'll also have flats on one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to look at a downhill style pedal with a large platform on it. As long as the SPD portion isn't raised too much you can probably use them quite comfortably with regular shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T18:00:10.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3912" CreationDate="2011-05-24T18:13:02.210" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using Shimano A530 pedals for that purpose. Mountain SPD-compatible clip on one side, with a nice wide flat platform on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also used the old Shimano M324 pedals, but prefer the slightly lighter weight and lower profile of the A530s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that other foot retention systems, such as PowerGrips and the like, will work with all shoes (such as winter boots) and many existing platform pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1273" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T18:13:02.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2011-05-24T18:18:55.197" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the frame, wheels are the second most important element of a bicycle. Wheels are also the second most expensive and at times even more expensive than the actual frame. In terms of advice on buying a bike, start with your budget and back into the best frame, wheels then components money can buy. Another strategy some guys use is to buy the bike with the best frame/gruppo combo possible, then know they will upgrade wheels when $$ begin to flow again in a few months. I have used both of these strategies successfully, but now prefer the first as most components are very good...but that is not true of all wheel sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the cuff, without an overly detailed answer, cheap versus expensive can be summed up in 4 words: comfort, efficiency, weight and durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you give me an idea of what type of riding you are looking to do and how much you are looking to spend, I will gladly provide some decent steeds to take a look at. Or if you look at a couple of models and want some feedback, I am sure you will get lots of responses if you post again here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T18:18:55.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3877" CreationDate="2011-05-24T18:27:36.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ridden both versions of head tubes/steerer tubes - tapered/non-tapered and it is my experience that the tapered version provides much more stability and with frame weights what they are today, more stability is always welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T18:27:36.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3912" CreationDate="2011-05-24T19:11:01.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the very cheap Wellgo WPD982, it depends on your price range, probably you should go for better pedals, but my experience with these has been good and I ride with and without SPD shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T19:11:01.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3866" CreationDate="2011-05-24T19:17:17.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Requiring lights at the point of sale adds an unnecessary cost to bicycles and would in turn reduce the number of people cycling. Since the health benefits of cycling &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usatoday.com/news/health/2010-07-09-bike-cycling-city_N.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;outweigh the risks&lt;/a&gt;, anything that reduces the pool of cyclists isn't worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, while requiring the sale of lights with the purchase of a bicycle might increase &lt;em&gt;bicycle&lt;/em&gt; safety, it makes life itself riskier. The same reasoning applies to the mandatory use of helmets while cycling. For every cyclist that dies in a spectacular crash, nine quietly continue their lives without dying of heart disease or diabetes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T19:17:17.200" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2011-05-24T19:26:21.597" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with any other equipment, it depends on how much you would like to spend...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference between a cheap and a better bike is the quality of the materials and the comfort/performance they provide!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have several cheap bikes and two &quot;better&quot; bikes, the differences between these are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;better &lt;em&gt;derailleur&lt;/em&gt; system, both the front and back, it makes a lot of difference!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;better shifter (the cheap one has a thumb-type shifter, and the better has a shimano trigger-type shifter), for me having trigger-type shifter is a huge difference in comfort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;better brakes (you could go for the v-brakes, but there are some &lt;em&gt;flavors&lt;/em&gt; to choose from; you could also go for a disc-brake; also the brake levers can make a lot of difference also!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyres, normally the cheap bikes have sub-par tyres and tubes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;obviously the wheel (good rims, good spokes, I have noticed that indeed!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the frame, weight, strength, shape (cheap frames can affect a lot on the way you ride, but honestly I've had cheap frames and loved them!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seat, a good seat and seat post are important.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;overall, good materials, that don't disintegrate after some time and resist (as possible) to the corrosion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may have forgotten something but this gives you an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T19:26:21.597" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3927" CreationDate="2011-05-24T20:48:51.433" Score="4" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased an older Santa Cruz Blur frame today.  From what I can gather the shock mounted on the frame gives 5.5&quot; of travel.  I'm looking to buy a fork to match.  Do I need to go with a 140mm fork, or would something like 120 work?  What are the problems associated with differing lengths of suspension between the front and rear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastEditorUserId="1466" LastEditDate="2011-05-25T00:54:40.260" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T11:26:53.213" Title="Proper fork length for a bike with 5.5 inches of rear shock" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3904" CreationDate="2011-05-24T22:36:32.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you mean the bottom bracket bolt cover (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dustcap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;per wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;) there are two horrid types, and no good ones I'm aware of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expensive ones are metal and exactly match the thread of the crank so they shield it and keep it clean. They're also fragile and easy to damage as they're not strong enough to take much force but they have a large thread contact area so become quite solidly stuck over time. They're also expensive (did I say that already?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheap plastic ones don't look as nice, but are lighter and easy to replace. They're also easy to damage when removing them and often the little plastic tabs break off even if you're very careful. The flip side is that you can buy a packet of 10 for about $5. But not online, by the look of it. eBay has single caps at about $1 each, which is IMO unreasonable, and no-one's selling larger quantities. I think you'll have to pay whatever your LBS charges, unfortunately, or buy a box of 1000 from China. Classic small part problem - you're paying $1 for the LBS to handle the product which is most of the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-25T00:43:32.037" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T00:43:32.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3903" CreationDate="2011-05-24T23:09:01.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that it's cheaper for the manufacturer. Or if they're advertising it, it may just be a market differentiator. Regardless, leave it there rather than trying to remove it because it's right inside the chain where you need it. By all means wipe off any excess on the outside, but don't use a chain cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The different types of chain lube have been discussed at length on the web and elsewhere, and to the best of my knowlege the definitive answer is &quot;it depends&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly: oil-based (wet) lubes are more water resistant but attract gunk and turn into black sticky goo on your chain, grease-based (wet) lubes are more water and mud resistant but attract even more gunk, and wax (dry) lubes attract little gunk but wash off more easily. You also get various additives (usually teflon) to reduce friction. Then there are solvents used to remove gunk, like WD40 and kerosene. Despite sometimes being called oils, they are not useful as lubricants except in the immediate &quot;stuck bolt&quot; sense - they evaporate very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consensus seems to be use wet lubes in the wet, dry lubes in the dry, and caution when discussing the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T23:09:01.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2011-05-24T23:21:43.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They do, but not all shops stock them and it can be a bit of a pain to find them. I get the feeling Shimano always have one &quot;street shoe&quot; in their range, other manufacturers are less consistent. I've been wearing the Shimano ones for years now and have had three different models so far. One trick is to replace the laces with plain black ones and colour in the reflective bits with a black permanent marker. That wears off after a few weeks but gets me through the interview. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current pick for me is Shimano MT-32 series in black. I wear them everywhere instead of normal shoes (I keep my &quot;normal shoes&quot; at work so I don't have to wear wet cycling shoes all day in the winter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9dYXI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano MT-32&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need more than that there's apparently a company in Italy that does hand-made leather cycling shoes that look very nice (and for the price they should). I looked at them once but decided I couldn't afford them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-24T23:27:47.387" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T23:27:47.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3903" CreationDate="2011-05-24T23:34:44.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, chains are not shipped with wax-based lubes.  Sheldon Brown always recommended using the chain &quot;as shipped&quot; until the factory stuff wore off...&#xA;Choice of lubes tends to be highly contentious and engineering types go to great lengths to get every possible extra mile of chain life...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, waxes work well but need constant re-application.   They do not tend to attract dirt much.&#xA;Petro-based lubes offer excellent protection but also tend to attract dirt.... Frequent cleaning seems in order.&#xA;Systems like wax/grease that require you to heat the substance up and then dismount the chain and immerse...  Effective but messy.&#xA;Personally I find normal, petro-based commercial chain lubes seem to work pretty well regardless of brand.  I use the &quot;Finish Line&quot; products on the department bikes and a six or seven dollar bottle will last the season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T23:34:44.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3904" CreationDate="2011-05-25T00:16:11.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have an older road-bike with Shimano 600 parts.  Rather than dust-caps, the Shimano 600's from the mid-eighties had self-extracting crank-bolts.  What a great idea.  If you can find a set, I recommend them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T00:16:11.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3921" CreationDate="2011-05-25T11:26:53.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The different lengths of suspension will affect the geometry by giving your bike a steeper (or not) head angle. Too much travel might make it tougher to pedal as well, depending on the fork's settings. A too long/short fork (compared to what it was designed to use) might put some unnecessary stress on the tubes and for that reason forks outside of a certain range void warranties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blur is designed for a 5.5 in / 140 mm fork. I'd suggest going to a local Santa Cruz dealer (if such a thing exists where you live) and ask them if 120 mm is fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T11:26:53.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-25T17:33:02.383" Score="3" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since switching from the Michelin Pro2's to the new Pro3's I've experienced an increase in puncture flats.  Nothing has else has really changed in riding style or conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pro3 ride much nicer.  A bit more supple.  But I'm tired of flatting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these tires particularly prone to flats? Is there anything that can be done to prevent flats with them? If not, are there other similar tires that are more puncture-resistent? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1542" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-25T17:47:17.763" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T10:54:50.133" Title="Frequent flats with Michelin Pro3's" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3928" CreationDate="2011-05-25T18:11:08.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is similar, thus I am currently testing two other brands. I did move from the Michelins to Conti's Grand Prix 4000 S which have a fantastic feel and handle superbly, but did not last or hold as well to even the Michelin P3's, so I have moved on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a set of Specialized Turbo PRO's on one bike and a Vredestein Fortezza TriComp on another. While it is too early too tell durability, I have not flatted on either set and the road feel and handling is adequate, but not up to par with Michelins or Conti's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T18:11:08.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-05-25T18:21:53.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Utmost? In order of probability....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The ability to fix a flat out in the middle of nowhere. Which means an extra tube, patch kit, CO2 or pump, tire levers, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A cycling tool set or multi-tool allowing you to adjust any of the major components of your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Odds and ends, like, duct tape, a bit of stiff wire, replacement nuts/bolts, chain-link, zip-tie, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Small, efficient clip-on lights. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is pretty much what my seat bag contains. Other than that, water, the mobile phone, and my wallet and keys. These items go along everywhere anyway. So, don't consider them to be cycling essentials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the choice, I will take the ability to self-sufficiently repair a flat over the mobile phone. Odds are, I'll need to fix a flat far more often than the day when I need major help. So &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;flat fixing ability is the &quot;utmost'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-05-25T19:47:20.797" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T19:47:20.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3905" CreationDate="2011-05-25T19:56:56.603" Score="-1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Bikely&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on Google Maps, the site is geared towards user-contributed routes. While there is a good amount of content here covering the UK, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikely.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bikely.com&lt;/a&gt; is slow and hard to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T20:06:04.347" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-25T19:56:56.603" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3905" CreationDate="2011-05-25T20:03:16.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;MapMyRIDE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mapmyride.com&lt;/a&gt; has some UK coverage and is acceptably fast, but some features require membership (like printing cue sheets), and the interface is convoluted. Ads on the site can be intrusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike other UK mapping services, routes must be generated manually and can take some time to make. It even has trouble with recognizing National Cycle Routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T15:57:28.350" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-25T20:03:16.893" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3928" CreationDate="2011-05-25T20:15:29.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got the Pro3s and I average a flat about every 100 miles.  They're not cheap either.  After I finish off my current supply of them, I'll be trying something a bit more puncture resistant...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T20:15:29.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3936" CreationDate="2011-05-25T20:41:08.297" Score="13" ViewCount="1525" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok. We're talking about when you'll be on the bike for 5+ hours. For example, a Century or 200K. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best nutrition for a ride of this type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'll be on the bike for 5+ hours, with few or no stops. (pee stops and water refill and otherwise nothing else)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I go with the food provided along the way (a supported century), or junk food, or should I prepare my own deal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW - 30mi/50k ride does not count. That's a training ride in 2 hours or less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Update... Here's what it came down to. We used Hammer Nutrition &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hammernutrition.com/products/perpetuem.pp.html?navcat=fuels-energy-drinks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Perpetuem&lt;/a&gt;. Basically, Perpetuem is a bunch of maltodextrin + some protein + some fats. We made up 8 hour water bottles which was basically like slurping down pancake batter. The Century ride had 7 stops along the way. Not counting water refill and pee stops; we only made a real stop for lunch at the 6th stop. The 8th stop was the end, but we continued on for another 30 miles to meet up with our ride back home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must add that the Perpetuem mixture started out well, but was extremely revolting by the end of the ride. However, it did the job. Since the May supported century, I've done several 80 - 100+ mile rides. Perpetuem works well as fuel, but I did add some tastier, solid foods to my jersey pocket for a change of pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T20:44:46.573" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T07:59:31.363" Title="Multi hour ride nutrition" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3934" CreationDate="2011-05-25T20:49:45.570" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally for me, the key ingredient (after raw calories) is salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find on my Ironman distance races that I go hyponatremic pretty early.  I just get salt packets from a restaurant and eat a packet (5 grams) every hour or so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I realize I am low on salt (usually feel like I am falling asleep while biking hard or running) I eat some salt, and as soon as it touches my tongue I start to feel better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T20:49:45.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3934" CreationDate="2011-05-25T21:05:08.310" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Informally, I find that on long rides, your body will simply know what it needs. You pull off at a stop; the trail mix and pickles look delicious, so you eat them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More scientifically though, your body can process about two servings (e.g., bottles of gatorade, gel packs, etc.) of carbohydrate per hour. Any more than this, and you can experience gastrointestinal distress (politely put) as the excess carbohydrates back up in your gut. For this reason, I prefer to drink water on long rides, and use food or gel packs to replenish salt and sugar. This way I can decouple hydration from my carbohydrate intake — if I'm parched, I'm not stuck with the choice of getting dehydrated versus consuming too many carbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But first and foremost, listen to what your body tells you it wants. Drink &lt;em&gt;plenty&lt;/em&gt; of water and try to spread out your consumption of food and drink evenly. Lots of small snacks will be easier on your digestive system and keep your energy level even, as opposed to a few large binges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T21:05:08.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3928" CreationDate="2011-05-25T21:08:55.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reviewer in &lt;a href=&quot;http://reviews.roadbikereview.com/michelin-pro3-race-review-pro-review&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; points out that expecting serious puncture resistance from performnce tires is unrealistic to say the least. However, the reviewer, a self-described heavier rider, had only one flat in 1000+ miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several of the comments in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/tyres/road/product/review-michelin-pro-3-race-tyre-31475/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this review&lt;/a&gt; say they've experienced punctures. However, I'm unable to find any durability comparisons with the Pro2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for fun: Have you checked the tires before changing the tubes? Sometimes a thorn or a sharp piece of glass can be hard to find but still flat the same tube in the same place. A rough edge on your rim can also cause pinch flats if your tires are underinflated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Durability and speed are not mutually exclusive properties, but there is a degree of tradeoff. If durability is important to you, I'd suggest looking into a set of touring tires. They'll slow you down a little bit, but you'll get more riding time in. (Unless you bike on some pretty bad roads indeed!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T21:08:55.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3934" CreationDate="2011-05-25T21:48:05.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with both answers thus far, but fact is to meet your nutritional needs for any ride close to this distance you need to start preparing three days out! Experience is the best teacher and it is always better to have too much food/drink than not enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am huge fan of PB&amp;amp;J's on pumpernickel bagels!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T21:48:05.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6525" CreationDate="2011-05-26T04:49:52.733" Score="5" ViewCount="10271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this spoke tool. The number I use on this tool is 14. I use it on a hybrid mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJHRi.png&quot; alt=&quot;I have an existing spoke tool&quot;&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to get one which is easier to use but I do not know which size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the available sizes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For 3.20mm/80 ga./0.127&quot; nipples, black vinyl coated.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For 3.45mm/80 ga./0.136&quot; nipples, red vinyl coated.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For 3.30mm/80 ga./0.130” nipples, green vinyl coating  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is the red one in the middle. Hoping for someone to confirm my guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit by Moz: Bounty offered for a &lt;strong&gt;conversion chart or link to one&lt;/strong&gt;. Those numbers seem more or less consistent on the three of those tools I found, so somewhere there has to be a reference to the expected sizes (unfortunately theres +/- .1mm wear on the ones I have as they're old and cheap). The suppliers I've found all just say &quot;fits all sizes&quot; and don't list what the sizes actually are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T00:30:43.277" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T18:39:43.060" Title="Which size spoke tool. Currently size 14" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3939" CreationDate="2011-05-26T05:27:51.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The numbers on your current gauge are almost certainly inverse inches for the nipple size that that gauge spokes used to take. These days there are fewer spoke sizes in common use and only one common thread and nipple size. I can't find a reasonable chart online for the conversion and I have never tried to do it myself. I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-188909.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this explanation&lt;/a&gt; is probably correct - the cost of buying all three is low and the chance of getting it wrong is high. Just buy one of each and be done with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suggestion in that link of visiting your LBS and asking them to work it out and sell you the appropriate size is probably the best fallback position. It may be more expensive than buying all three online, and the chances of finding a nipple that's the wrong size for your one key is also high. Probably not on your current wheel, but on the next wheel you try it will happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-05-27T02:58:54.443" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T02:58:54.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4053" CreationDate="2011-05-26T06:57:48.150" Score="5" ViewCount="863" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many enthusiasts and intercessors talk about a superfast refill of carbohydrates after exercise. Why carbohydrates? You need those during exercise, but after? You also have a lot of recovery products that contains surprising amount of fat and carbos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pure protein to fill up your reservoirs. You can feel comfortable that your muscles are saved, all surplus of proteins (what body doesnt need) are converted to carbos/glucose by your body. Driving your body more empty of carbohydrates while a period of structured training, just makes it more comfortable with that balance and probably got a boost later on with filled reservoirs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Q excluding &quot;wear out completely&quot; exercises, which purpose is a maximum carboload before an important competition. The Q is more about the regular training purposed to build up stronger endurance while the season. I would buy many of the promoted products regarding recovery if it's for for spontanouos competitors and joggers that likely are well-rested between competitions and heavy exercices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your ideas here?&#xA;How do you eat/fill after cycling?&#xA;Wo you know some references to pure protein theory (or evidence for the opposite)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1202" LastEditorUserId="1202" LastEditDate="2011-05-28T22:13:28.017" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T12:53:17.720" Title="Why recover with carbohydrates, instead of with protein?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3946" CreationDate="2011-05-26T09:42:08.603" Score="4" ViewCount="806" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NqhhL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a flip-flop hub on a single speed track bike.&#xA;I need to replace the rear sprocket (freewheel side) and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Id prefer to give this a go myself, but &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not sure what tools I need to remove this  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not sure what freewheel I would need to order to replace it with.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(ideally a similar or upgrade.  + points for links to sites like Evans/ChainReactionCycles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T13:43:05.367" Title="What tools will I need to remove sprocket/what type will I need to order?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3934" CreationDate="2011-05-26T13:30:42.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nutrition is nutrition. I do not see why everything we learn at school about eating a balanced diet with variety (to cover all of the main food groups in one of those pyramid shaped diagrams) goes out of the window as soon as 'sport' gets involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to do 12 hour shifts in a factory every day lifting heavy boxes, would you contemplate doing it on over-priced electrolyte-balanced-whatever packets of 'food' that tastes horrible? Or would you pack some fresh sandwiches, maybe with a couple of fillings, maybe a sticky bun, a banana, a chocolate bar and perhaps a packet of crisps? Come the end of the 12 hour shift (with two 15 minute breaks and one half hour lunch) I think you would feel better if you had eaten properly that day and still be able to perform. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it any different on a one-off bike ride? Admittedly I have never quite mastered the art of eating crisps on a bike, however, I think it is important to enjoy your food and stay from those extra-long-shelf-life 'sports' foods that don't even look like food. I don't even think you need to take in a lot en-route - the most important meals are brekkie and din-dins. And it is definitely okay to sleep after a large dinner as all other mammals do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T13:30:42.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2011-05-26T13:38:57.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have front and rear racks with bar bag and stuff on the top rack. But, some Americans I was riding with continually took the Michael out of my front rack and the 'footballs' on each side. Those panniers were bad in headwinds and I had too much faff trying to get stuff from them - terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays I recommend everything on the back except for the stuff in the handlebar bag. Big panniers without a multitude of pockets are more practical and you should be able to get all non-food items (including the handlebar bag) in them (for getting on planes etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T13:38:57.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3942" CreationDate="2011-05-26T13:43:05.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That will be a BMX freewheel tool you will be needing. Order a BMX style freewheel, count the teeth or get one with less/more teeth depending on how you want to be pedalling - higher cadence will need more teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a big vice then you can put the freewheel removal tool in that. Otherwise a really big adjustable spanner from some pound-shop will do nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T13:43:05.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3941" CreationDate="2011-05-26T13:51:59.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually your recovery should start on the bike. What I mean by that is the primary fuel used is carbohydrates and you should be re-fueling throughout the ride even at the end of the ride. Carbohydrates are easy to digest and provide highly efficient energy. Hydration is also key as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post ride, the optimal window for glycogen restoration is 30 minutes once exercise stops! Your muscles are depleted and craving carbs.  Once you get into the habit of doing this, you will be shocked if you miss this window how much more slowly you recover. There is a lot of debate about protein to carbo ratios which I will not introduce here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not pure protein? It is takes way too long to digest and you miss the optimal window. If you are trying to build muscle mass, protein would be ideal, but as cyclists we do not want or need the mass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recovery drink of choice: Organic Low Fat Chocolate Milk. For me it has the right balance/ratio of carbs and protein.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T13:51:59.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3939" CreationDate="2011-05-26T14:02:09.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you have the right guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really cannot get to a bike shop I would suggest that you just order a red 'Spokey' online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unusual in the UK to have to get the yellow 'Spokey' out (for Japanese wheels) and I would be surprised if your hands were so different that a different tool to the legendary 'Spokey' was needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot get to the shop and you are unwilling to gamble on the red 'Spokey' being the right one, just order all three. There are distance selling regulations that mean whomever you order from it is okay to send back the spoke keys that did not fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T14:02:09.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3939" CreationDate="2011-05-26T14:56:31.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I refurbish a lot of old bikes and I use a wrench like you show... There appears to be little uniformity.&#xA;However, If you're just dealing with YOUR bike you should be able to pick the right one at the shop...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T14:56:31.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3955" CreationDate="2011-05-26T15:50:36.063" Score="30" ViewCount="4492" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do bicycles have two individual brake levers that work independently to brake each wheel? I've always used my right brake lever because it is more comfortable to do so and I haven't noticed any difference between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-27T16:57:45.093" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T21:31:44.677" Title="Why do the front and rear brakes work independently?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3950" CreationDate="2011-05-26T16:13:57.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Individual brake levers for each wheel give you more options for braking. There are some circumstances when you would only want to apply one brake - e.g. if you get a puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T16:13:57.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3950" CreationDate="2011-05-26T16:19:34.280" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's about security that (at least) two completely independent break mechanisms should exist. If one mechanism fails, the other are there to serve. In competitions and other special circumstances like high speed, slippery roads and down hills, you also are helped with choose front / rear depends on the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1202" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T16:19:34.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3950" CreationDate="2011-05-26T16:44:12.733" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Linking the two brakes would have a detrimental effect on braking power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your front brake will bring your bike to a halt far quicker than your rear brake will, and should be used almost exclusively. When braking with the rear brake, your back tire won't have much weight on it, and will skid along the ground. This results in a dramatic reduction of braking power. On the other hand, when you compress your front brake, the forward momentum of the bike will be partially converted to downwards force, sticking the tire hard against the road surface and maintaining maximum traction. In a real-life scenario, this can easily be the difference between slamming into a car that suddenly brakes in front of you versus screeching to a halt with an inch to spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you squeeze the front brake too hard at too great a speed, you can flip over the handlebars. However, if you primarily use your front brake, you will quickly learn exactly how quickly you can safely stop the bicycle. Being low in the drops helps with this immensely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The few scenarios in which you should be using your rear brake are during fast downhill descents, where even a little braking on the front at fast speeds can cause your center of gravity to go over the front of the bike, or on any surface where your front wheel might lose contact with the ground. In this situation, the front brake could bring your front wheel to a complete stop just before it connects with the ground again, causing you to lose control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T16:44:12.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3950" CreationDate="2011-05-26T16:48:41.530" Score="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Redundancy&lt;/strong&gt; of an essential safety feature is good.  If there's a problem with one brake lever you still have the other brake. Being totally unable to stop could be disastrous.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a &lt;strong&gt;legal&lt;/strong&gt; requirement in some places to have two independent brakes for a bicycle used on public roads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limited human hand &lt;strong&gt;strength&lt;/strong&gt;. One hand can't pull the brakes as hard as two. If you need to stop really quickly this could make a difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Separate &lt;strong&gt;control&lt;/strong&gt; of braking.  The rear brake is much less effective and prone to skidding. The front brake is more effective for quick stops, but locking up (skidding) the front wheel will lead to a crash. @&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1442/stephen-touset&quot;&gt;Stephen Touset&lt;/a&gt; wrote up a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3950/why-do-the-front-and-rear-brakes-work-independently/3954#3954&quot;&gt;detailed answer covering the control issues&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allows &lt;strong&gt;signaling&lt;/strong&gt; with either hand and stopping at the same time.  Sometimes you need to be slowing down to prepare for a stop or turn and signaling at the same time. If you can take one hand or the other (but not both) off the handlebars that can be useful. (I prefer the arm straight out in direction of turn signal instead of the left arm hooked up to signal right turn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simplicity&lt;/strong&gt; of design.  A single lever controlling both brakes (via two cables?) would be tricky to adjust right, and if it wasn't adjusted exactly perfectly you'd probably end up braking with one wheel and the other never really happening. The longer cable (rear brake) would get more stretch (housing compression) just because it's longer, so you'd probably need to be fiddling with barrel adjusters on that cable quite frequently. One lever controlling both brakes just seems difficult to engineer right and likely to need much more frequent adjusting/maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I tend to use the rear brake for controlling my speed (slowing down just a little) and either the front brake or both brakes for stopping (especially a fast stop). An awareness at any given time of which tire is more likely to slip and using the other brake is good, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth noting: it's a specialty item, but you can get a brake lever that controls both brake levers at once.  This is mostly popular with bike polo players (who use one hand for a mallet) and people with physical conditions that limit their ability to use the brake with one hand. If you don't have any special reasons to need just one lever, you're probably best off with separate levers. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paulcomp.com/duplexlever.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.paulcomp.com/duplexlever.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2017-08-21T15:44:28.223" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T15:44:28.223" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3934" CreationDate="2011-05-26T20:43:28.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that a 20oz caffeinated drink about 1/2 way in really helps me out on 60+ mile rides.  Also, at least 200 calories per hour usually keep me from bonking.  Starting at least a day or two ahead with the nutrition and hydration is important, as GuyZee pointed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1551" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T20:43:28.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3966" CreationDate="2011-05-27T08:38:57.550" Score="26" ViewCount="46525" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that pedal threads are different on the left and right pedals: the right side pedal has a right-hand thread (removes counterclockwise, installs clockwise); the left side pedal has a left-hand thread (removes clockwise, installs counterclockwise), I often find myself trying to remember which way to turn the wrench to loosen a pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a good-- preferably humorous and easy to remember-- mnemonic device to forever ingrain in my memory which pedal goes which way and keep me from over-tightening when I am trying to loosen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1559" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T18:38:04.400" Title="What is a simple mnemonic for remembering the thread direction when removing pedals?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="27" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-05-27T09:05:36.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have the wit to convey the knuckle on chain-teeth pain that happens when taking old pedals out, however, how about &lt;em&gt;'backwards in, forwards out'&lt;/em&gt; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinking being that when you put new pedals in you have to turn the chainset backwards with your trusty 15mm spanner on the pedal and vice-versa for taking old pedals out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T09:05:36.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-05-27T09:19:00.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I found my own approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I approach my bicycle from back, put on an wrench/hex key pointing to back and push it down, if needed, with my foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to do this with my bike upside down, but ended up with some scratches on my hands from drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T09:19:00.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-05-27T11:31:12.763" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just remember it as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right Side: Righty tighty lefty loosy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left Side: Lefty tighty righty loosey&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T11:31:12.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3905" CreationDate="2011-05-27T11:33:33.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;InstaMapper&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a site which I use to save my routes, then share them, called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instamapper.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;instamapper&lt;/a&gt; that I use extensively.  It also allows people to log into it and follow you in real time; I used this to let my wife know when to run me a cold bath after a very long ride!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1562" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T10:29:13.013" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T10:29:13.013" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-27T11:33:33.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3965" CreationDate="2011-05-27T13:05:46.737" Score="8" ViewCount="1184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike which is a reasonable fit, what is the recommended procedure for adjusting the seat position and handlebar height to get the &quot;perfect fit&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A complete answer should include what order to make adjustments; how to determine height of saddle, fore and aft position of saddle on rails and height of handlebars. Also what testing is required. Is this all done on feel or are there basic measurements and mecahnics that affect the adjustments? Does it help to have a turbo-trainer and large mirror or video camera?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the same principles apply for hybrid and/or mountain bikes? What changes to the process are needed for other bike types?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this is a service you can pay for at some pro-cycling shops, but since I have a number of different bikes, I would like to be able to get a good fit for each of them at home for a minimal layout. And also, by understanding the process and doing it myself, getting a better understanding between me and the bike...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T19:25:44.923" Title="What is the recommended procedure for adjusting the fit of my bike?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3897" CreationDate="2011-05-27T13:19:43.963" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out Sheldon Brown's commentary on Leather saddles.  There is a section on breaking in leather saddles about 2/3 down the page. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/leather.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/leather.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the traditional conditioning methods, he also suggests a rather radical 2-step process that involves totally soaking the saddle in oil for an hour and then going for ride.  Not sure I'd go to that extreme because my Brooks B-17 was comfortable right out of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of how long it takes to break in, stick with it.  You'll be rewarded with the most comfortable saddle you've ever ridden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Today I parked my bike out in the sun and applied a liberal amount of proofide to the top of the saddle.  The warmth of the sun caused the leather to drink it up very quickly.  I applied five coats is less than an hour.  When it stops soaking it up, buff off the excess and go for a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1474" LastEditorUserId="1474" LastEditDate="2011-05-28T19:15:39.963" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T19:15:39.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3963" CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:31:05.183" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's quite a lot of discussion on the subject of fit, and some folks have considerably different ideas in this regard.&#xA;I use the old-school methods to get close, then try to &quot;dial in&quot; things according to what my body tells me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat height should be such that you can easily pedal &quot;circles&quot; without rocking or stretching, nor by over-flexing the knee.  It's hard to describe...Essentially the leg should not be fully extended at the bottom of the stroke.  Just short of being fully extended.&#xA;The thigh should be more-or-less level at the top of the stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fore-and-aft measurement is often neglected or even ignored.   Again, the classic measurement is that with the pedals level (3 and 9 o'clock) a plumb line dropped from the bony process just below your kneecap should intersect the pedal's shaft.&#xA;That's assuming you're sitting on the saddle properly, with your &quot;sit bones&quot; on the heavily-padded portion of the saddle.&#xA;Saddle attitude is one of personal preference; I prefer just a few points nose-down from dead level.&#xA;&quot;Reach&quot; is somewhat dependent on the type of bike.   On roadsters, you want the reach to the hoods such that you can ride with a relaxed upper body at a reasonable angle.  Some authorities advise such-and-such a percentage of weight on the hands, and such-and-such on the seat.  You don't want to be totally supporting your upper body with your arms.&#xA;I've seen folks who maintain that these things are &quot;all wrong&quot;, and propose all sorts of ideas for getting the perfect position.    I know I can ride comfortably and without hurting anything using these methods....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T14:31:05.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:58:55.170" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;What could be simpler than remembering that the left-hand pedal has left-hand thread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T14:58:55.170" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3970" CreationDate="2011-05-27T16:35:20.643" Score="22" ViewCount="50398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute on a Single Speed (SS) bike about 13mi round trip. Going home is not a problem as the gradients are low and I can climb them. However, going in to work the gradients are much steeper and I have a hard time climbing them. I usually need to stop and walk a bit. I am looking for any pointers on climbing hills on an SS. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I am not really looking for ways to avoid hurting myself, I am young and fit so that isn't my biggest concern. I am more concerned with making my pedaling technique more efficient, especially for hill climbs. Another point I should mention is that I am using clipless pedals to increase my power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Verdict:&lt;/strong&gt; I added this because I can only choose one best answer. I think that @GuyZee best addressed my question about technique, but @Steven offered a great deal of help with regards to getting a better mechanical advantage. Thanks to both of you for providing great answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1552" LastEditorUserId="1552" LastEditDate="2011-05-27T21:13:18.117" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T09:31:19.610" Title="Looking for Techniques for Riding Uphill on a Single Speed" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-05-27T17:09:19.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stay on the drive side of the bike and reach over to remove the non-drive-side pedal.  Keep the bike upright.  In this case, you turn your pedal wrench towards the back of the bike when removing both pedals and you turn it towards the front when installing them.  Lead in with taking off the drive side pedal, and then reach over and do the same motion for the non-drive-side.  You won't screw it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T17:09:19.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3963" CreationDate="2011-05-27T17:13:36.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I concur with M. Werner &amp;amp; previously used this answer (someone down voted :-O) for similar question: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO single most important factor of cycling joy is FIT!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a great tool and worth the effort: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used it myself and referred countless folks to it, all with great success! Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added for this post:&#xA;Once you take the measurements and input the data into the fit calculator, you can email yourself the results. Over the years I have been able to move from bike to bike focusing on two measurements which were initially provided by the fit calculator: &#xA;1. Saddle Height&#xA;2. Cock pit length which is the tip of the saddle to the handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have been professionally fitted and came out with identical set up as I did when I did the recommended fit calculator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Order of adjustments based on the methods described by M. Werner:&#xA;1. Set saddle height &#xA;2. Set fore-and-aft of saddle (I use a level here and strongly recommend using one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once saddle position is set move to handlebars/stem, 3 options here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Competitive Cyclist's recommendations &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visit LBS and borrow/rent use an adjustable stem to determine correct angle and length based on trial and error.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or lastly, I would refer to personal comfort in terms of how much stress/stretch you desire for your back - the old rule of thumb is while mounted on bike you want the intersection of the handlebar/stem mounting point to obscure the view of your front hub.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever path you decide, my recommendation is to take and record the following measurements, the two main #'s I use as I move from bike to bike:&#xA;1. Top of saddle to center of bottom bracket&#xA;2. Tip of saddle to handlebar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! Any questions lmk!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T17:13:36.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2011-05-27T17:24:20.427" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride both SS/FG and approach climbing hills much of the same way I would if I were on a geared bike with one very big exception...MOMENTUM. When on a heavily geared SS/FG I gain as much speed as possible going into the hill and push hard to maintain it throughout the climb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic climbing tips: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slide back on saddle and drive heels through the bottom of the pedal stroke&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you need to stand, do so while minimizing body sway and unnecessary counterproductive upper body motion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get into a rhythm - climb at your own pace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stay upright to keep lungs operating at full capacity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull handlebars into your thighs as you drive pedals forward&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T17:24:20.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2011-05-27T18:09:04.720" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;@GuyZee covers most of the technique side, but I'd like to add that if you're experiencing difficulty climbing hills, you should also use a lower gear. Faster cadences are a great way to build up your endurance and help with the hill climbs to boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spinning is winning!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T18:09:04.720" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3963" CreationDate="2011-05-27T20:27:46.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use many of the same techniques that @M.Werner recommends. Get a general fit and then tweak as needed. Generally I will take a guess at where things should be and then climb on. It is usually obvious when I'm way wrong. For a little fine tuning I will balance with a counter top or the like and then pedal backwards for a bit, obviously doesn't work with FG, hopping off and making tweaks. The final tweaks I make come from riding around noting changes to make and then when I take a break or am ready to turn around I make adjustments. I find I get a better idea for how well honed my setup is by actually riding than by measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1552" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T20:27:46.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-05-27T21:37:16.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drive side - normal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-drive side - opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="126" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T21:37:16.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2011-05-28T03:02:24.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did that myself once :-) Cut a hole in the sole of some leather shoes and inserted the nylon foot plate from old SPDs.  If you do decide to DIY, I recommend a slightly larger upper so your toes don't get cramped and reasonably stiff leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T03:02:24.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2011-05-28T05:05:54.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They aren't really interview caliber but I wear DZR GMT-8's to work everyday. They work nicely for a laid back business casual. DZR has 3 other models if the GMT-8's aren't your style. You could also try Chrome's Kurk-Pro, but those are even less office appropriate. I think the main reason that companies don't make them is that they don't see a big market. I hope this changes as more people decide to bike-commute to work.&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DZR GMT-8s:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dzrshoes.com/product/gmt-8/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dzrshoes.com/product/gmt-8/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chrome Kursk-Pro:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chromebagsstore.com/shoes/kursk-pro.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chromebagsstore.com/shoes/kursk-pro.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;Here is a picture of a custom job on some dress shoes:&#xA;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.urbancyclistworldwide.com/profiles/blogs/dress-shoes-with-spd-i-never&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.urbancyclistworldwide.com/profiles/blogs/dress-shoes-with-spd-i-never&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1552" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T05:05:54.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2011-05-28T19:14:42.520" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my eyes, it is impossible to make &quot;smart&quot; shoes with cleats. And why would you want to? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all smart-looking shoes have a relatively thin sole, just a few millimeters. The cleats add quite a bit to the thickness sole, and to keep it acceptably light, it is invariably strongly profiled, invariably leading to a sneaker look. Also, mesh for breathability looks sneakerish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smart shoes are not meant for bodily activities. They breathe relatively little, and are relatively tight. They also are not as resilient to scratches, dirt, and moisture. Sweat is the enemy of shiny. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleated shoes scratch the dancefloor, a strong argument against!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stronger, less flexible sole works better on the bike. Elsewhere, you want a flexible sole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people, like me, prefer narrower shoes on the bike than on the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would you want to wear bike shoes for formal situations? Carry a pair of nice shoes, thats what backpacks are for. Or office drawers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T19:14:42.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3963" CreationDate="2011-05-28T19:25:44.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what type of riding you're doing. The seat should be slightly lower for less competitive riding style. My bike is currently set for ankling which requires a slightly higher seat set. I've found that the orientation of the settings on the bike depend on style of riding.&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;Personal preference is to set the seat height by sitting on the bike with leg straight and toe slightly up. Then the handlebar height is set, and finally the orientation of the saddle.&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;What this does is gives me the most power as I reach the bottom of the stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1571" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T19:25:44.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3928" CreationDate="2011-05-28T19:42:36.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer to this was old school. I put on tire savers. This won't work with knobbies, but it will work great with street tires. Back in the day, I tried a bunch of things including puncture resistant and kevlar. I have both sew-ups and street tires and it stops the nagging flats from small things that don't puncture on the first pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/10703870@N06/4683808689/in/set-72157622799024060/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; will give you a picture of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1571" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-28T19:50:31.997" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T19:50:31.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-05-28T22:15:40.430" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't worry about left hand or right hand thread. I remember that the chain always resists tightening the pedal. So I attach the spanner more or less opposite the crank and try to pedal backwards with it (to remove a pedal), or pedal forwards (to tighten a pedal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T22:15:40.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4041" CreationDate="2011-05-29T12:38:48.910" Score="9" ViewCount="73113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike where the chain intermittently skips when put under load on the middle (and very rarely on the smallest) chain ring. It is not related to shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken several steps to correct it including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calibrated front and back gear shifters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced the rear gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced the middle gear at the pedals (which was the most affected)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my great frustration the problem is still there! Could this be because of the derailer? The chain seems tight enough. Help from any gurus out there would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I've tried fiddling with the back screw on the back-derrailer (not the L/H-screws) in the hope that it was a chain tension issue but it did not help. I've also checked the chain for stiff links but could not find any. I am not able to reproduce it when not riding the bike so I am not certain where and how the chain skips. I am at my wits end and planning to bring it to a different repair shop with a sensai mechanic so hopefully he will be able to sort it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 2: Solved. See below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1573" LastEditorUserId="1573" LastEditDate="2011-06-02T14:19:35.510" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T13:59:26.843" Title="Problem with chain skipping without trying to shift (even with new chain and gears)" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3981" CreationDate="2011-05-29T15:00:13.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is likely due not to anything from the chain or the cogs, but rather cable tension.&#xA;If the chain is trying to shift onto bigger (lower gear) cogs, then the cable is too tight. The chain will keep trying to catch the next larger cog.&#xA;If it's too loose, it will try to shift to the next smaller cog.  (presuming a standard derailleur setup, some are &quot;backwards&quot;)&#xA;Try this.&#xA;Shift to the smallest cog.  Take hold of the cable at the frame and see if you can pull it easily out further.  If so, it's too loose.  If it won't move at all, and feels tight, it's too tight.&#xA;Loosen the cable at the derailleur, and pull it so that it's just snug.  That should be pretty close.&#xA;If the problem persists, you may also check the derailleur hanger. That's the little piece of aluminum that the derailleur is bolted to, that attaches it to the frame.   These are meant to be replaceable, and are frequently bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T15:00:13.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3981" CreationDate="2011-05-29T15:37:54.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think M. Werner is probably correct.  However, there is one additional thing (at least) that can cause this skipping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any of your links in your chain stuck?  If you have a pair of links that are jammed and not bending well, as they run over the gears they can behave as you describe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T15:37:54.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2011-05-29T19:55:02.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am with M. Werner - couldn't be better said!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A compromise idea might be to use 3-speed, Sturmey Archer hub gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a minor weight penalty and that handlebar lever will completely ruin the look of the bike, however you will get a gear for the hills/speedy standing starts, a cruising gear and an overdrive gear. You do have to ease off the pedals to change gear but you can also change when stationary. 3-speed is fun because you can rapidly downshift to first, go into high cadence mode, clear whatever you need to get past and then shift back to the cruising gear. Externally minimalist and bulletproof (I have a 3 speed from 1954), 3 speed will set you apart from those single-speeders lumbering away from the stop lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Implementing 3-speed could be a fun project if you build your own wheel from any old junk 3-speed wheel. The clips, cable and shifter are readily available after market for small sums, they will also fit onto your frame without requiring dropouts or any other frame bolt-ons. If you go with Sturmey Archer you will also have genuine retro, timeless classic-ness added to your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T19:55:02.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2011-05-29T22:53:33.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that you're riding a single-speed, my advice would be: Coast down the hills, and pedal up.  This conserves your energy best and gives you more power going uphill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that a certain amount of downhill pedaling is wasted.  Gravity will pull you down a hill, so you have to pedal a certain amount just to go faster than gravity would move you anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uphill, on the other hand, every bit of energy you expend is useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you'll be most efficient if you coast down and pedal up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="577" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T22:53:33.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3981" CreationDate="2011-05-29T23:13:13.980" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gears at the pedals are the chainrings. Replacing the middle one rather than the smallest if the smallest is where the problem happens is odd, but you've done it so move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order, the things I would check now that you've done the above are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;rear derailleur hanger alignment (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3666/how-to-straighten-a-bent-derailleur-hanger/3668#3668&quot;&gt;see answer here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;chain length (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3724/is-my-chain-too-long&quot;&gt;how to tell&lt;/a&gt;). If there's an extra link in your chain the extra slack in the lowest gear might be enough to let the chain skip. Especially if you're not in the largest rear cog at the time. Technique matters here - if you mostly use the lowest &quot;granny gear&quot;, then shift back to the middle chainring rather than onto smaller rear cogs this &quot;too much chain&quot; problem will not happen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;frame damage, specifically cracks around the head tube, down tube and chainstays. In the smallest chainring is when the forces on the frame are highest, so problems will show up in this gear first. Clean the bike, then carefully check the frame for damage. If the paint is chipped or cracked paint over it (with paint or nail varnish, anything that dries hard) then do a test ride under the conditions that cause the problem and check the new paint for cracks. Any new cracks mean there's too much flex, and might mean underlying frame damage. Or possibly just that you're too heavy/strong for the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;try adjusting the rear cable while riding the bike. Frame flex is probably the issue here, and doing the adjustment with your weight on the bike might make the difference&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;try re-routing the gear cables in crossover rather than parallel. The gear cables cross under the down tube - the rear cable starts on the left hand side of the head tube. This may mean new cables. This addresses shifting while you're out of the saddle swinging the bike from side to side (lateral bending rather than vertical).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;new gear cables and outers. This should have been done earlier if they're not in perfect condition. Even if they look perfect, if they're more than half a year old I'd replace them just because it'd be really annoying if this fixes the problem after I'd spent ages trying other things. It's ~$20 of parts, so it's cheap compared to what you've already spent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a new chain a sticky link really shouldn't be an issue, but just a question: you do lube your chain, right? Especially if this happens off road, a dirty chain might cause issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: middle chainring, not smallest&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That does change things. The &quot;too much chain&quot; option is unlikely, as is frame damage. I would really have to put the bike in a workstand at look at exactly what happens when you're using different rear cogs and the middle chainring. Also, check for wear/slop in the rear derailleur (can you push it back and forth without shifting the gear lever). Unfortunately it's in the &quot;I'm not sure what exactly I would be looking for, just anything that doesn't look right&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going to a different mechanic, especially one know to be an expert, is about all I can really suggest. Sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T13:16:02.473" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T13:16:02.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3698" CreationDate="2011-05-30T01:36:35.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used both fingerless track mits and full-fingered gloves. I've found the main difference comes from what you intend to do, and how long you want to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comfort: I found the fingerless mitts a lot more comfortable, making them great for longer rides. This would be especially important if you're looking at touring through a residential area, taking the long commute to work, or otherwise staying on roads. Once the temperatures start to drop however, the comfort of the fingerless mitts is defeated by the cold, so it's a good plan to switch up during these conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protection: When just biking around the city, chances are if there's an accident, having your palms protected by the fingerless mitts is enough. With smooth ashpalt beneath you, your fingers aren't going to do much in assist in breaking your fall. When mountain biking however, every bit of extra protection helps. The full-fingered gloves provide enough protection to keep your hands working well after most collisions, flips, slides, and scrapes. They won't do much to prevent a full-on break, but stopping a lot of scrapes and bruises can be a lifesaver, especially if you use those fingers for your living.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sweat: Both gloves do provide some wicking. The long-fingered gloves pull the sweat from the entire hand, whereas the fingerless only grab the palm. This can make a huge difference on exhausting rides as the grips on the bicycle get covered in sweat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grip: Although both types of gloves provide additional grips via the palm, only the long-fingered gloves provide additional grip in the fingers. This can provide a lot of advantages if you're worried about aging handlebar grips, or are forced to discard the grips after an accident and cycle back to town using only the raw handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tactile Sensation: Here is where the fingerless gloves shine. Because they're still fully exposed, you can feel everythign with your fingers as per normal. This means you can quickly pull over to check your cell phone, fiddle with your bike computer, or whatever else you may need to do that requires fine motor skills in the middle of your trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I've come to miss my tactile sensation, I've found the full-fingered gloves to be more useful on the whole and have opted to use them for the majority of my cycling trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T01:36:35.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2011-05-30T11:00:13.017" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stand on pedals to ride over cracks and bumps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're going over bumps, pot-holes, and cracks in the pavement/asphalt: stand (put all your weight on) the pedals and lift your bum off the seat; and coast (without pedalling) over the obstruction. Doing that is more comfortable for you, and for the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(P.S.: I do this wearing bike shoes which clip to the pedals; I have little experience of how easy/safe it would be to do when unclipped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do this when you're going over a smooth speed bump (which would otherwise tend to eject you from the saddle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T11:00:13.017" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-30T11:00:13.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2011-05-30T11:02:59.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sit back when braking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're braking hard, and especially if you brake when going down-hill, sit back as far as you can: lean forwards, stretch your arms out, and push your bum back to behind the saddle. Doing this will help to keep you from going over the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T11:02:59.707" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-30T11:02:59.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-31T01:48:38.533" Score="6" ViewCount="1174" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling is my sport. I'm training for a multi-day ride (four days). Each day will we be hard riding but not too long. The week before the event however I'm going on a four day trek with a 20kg backpack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm happy to lose some form for the event and have a great time treking with friends. However the last time I did a trek like that my legs were toast for a whole week afterwards. The uphills were a breeze but it was the 20km downhill that killed me. My legs are made for pushing pedals, not going downhill! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on the minimum amount of training to survive the walk and be good to go for the cycling event?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1578" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T02:48:03.107" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:13:50.893" Title="Train cycling legs for a long walking trek" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2011-05-31T10:40:51.837" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in the thirties, Tullio Campagnolo invented the modern derailleur for very good reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single-speed is a very sensible machine if the terrain and/or rider strength allow.  Simple, reliable, lightweight.&#xA;But for many, not a practical solution. If widely varying terrain must be tackled, the single speed is going to be problematic.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The objections given to multiply-geared bikes are valid, but a well-maintained gear train is essentially silent, reliable, and easy to use.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm a mechanic, and my bikes shift effortlessly and positively.  I &quot;stir&quot; my gears constantly to keep my pedal pressure and cadence at an optimum.  I enjoy doing this, much as sports-car drivers enjoy a manual transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fixies... Used to be a standard training item for pro road racers.  The idea being to build up both leg strength, spin, and smoothness.&#xA;However, I think a fixie, especially one without modern brakes is as dangerous to ride now as it was at the dawn of cycling back in the 1800s.&#xA;I see it as a fad item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T10:40:51.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2011-05-31T12:11:03.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put yourself up for a charity parachute jump - solo, none of that piggy-back nonsense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The training for this - all that jumping off things and rolling around on the ground stuff - is intensive 1-2 days and you will have some ex-army type bullying you to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deliberately mess up a barrel roll on the test so you have to do it all again for added punishment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After your parachute jump you should feel like you have already been on your four-day trek, by the time it comes round your muscles should be good and ready for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a last minute place on a parachute jump course you can phone up your local center or charity organiser and take the place of whomever has dropped out. There should be a place on the weekend a week before your trek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will not matter if you do not get to jump (due to the weather) that bit is easy. The training is what you want to loosen up your cyclist body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T12:11:03.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3905" CreationDate="2011-05-31T12:24:59.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Bike Route Toaster&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com/Course.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Route Toaster&lt;/a&gt; it does the job just fine regarding to mapping and allow to upload it directly to your Garmin, and that's all for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1067" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T10:30:55.740" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T10:30:55.740" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-31T12:24:59.420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2011-05-31T12:31:56.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;These guys make some nice shoes with SPD pedals (MTB style) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alwaysriding.co.uk/footwear-148/cycling-shoes-218/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.alwaysriding.co.uk/footwear-148/cycling-shoes-218/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gl2D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nice SPD shoe&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1067" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T12:31:56.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4006" CreationDate="2011-05-31T13:54:30.020" Score="3" ViewCount="3924" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me and a friend of mine are going on a long bike trip (which will take us a month) and we're finetuning our bikes for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We will be bringing about 14kg of luggage each, only riding on paved roads (with the occasional badly paved road). We leave here in Belgium, riding as far as we can in one month, towards Italy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best type of &lt;strong&gt;brake pads&lt;/strong&gt; for this purpose? I'm thinking of several aspects here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake-safety, even when wet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;noise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ease of mainenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wouldn't like too much wear on my new rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1580" LastEditorUserId="1580" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T07:22:20.953" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T00:42:33.683" Title="Best brake pads for long distance travelling?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3905" CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:17:27.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick Google search turned up some decent results that are presented below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycle-Routes: Seems to give a good overview of the routes that exist, but doesn't seem to give a point to point route. Could be good if you want the general overview of the area to plan your own route, but I usually look for a point to point route.&#xA;&lt;br/&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycle-route.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cycle-route.com/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;Cycle Routes UK (different site similar name): Gives route information filtered by area, distance, path type, and difficulty. Again, it is not point to point, but if you are looking for good routes to exercise or time trial against it seems like a good source. You can even add routes that you know about that aren't in the system and help others. If you are looking for predefined and tested routes this would work nicely.&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;http://www.cycleroutesuk.com/&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;Personally I use Google Maps with the bicycle directions option, but I am usually looking for commuting routes not exercise routes.&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1552" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T16:17:27.510" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-31T16:17:27.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4003" CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:56:05.480" Score="3" ViewCount="1014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding a bike for many years now, but I am embarrassed to tell you all that I  am an novice when it comes to repairing and maintaining bikes. I have always had a problem with repairing bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very interested in learning about bike repair. I want to build a custom bike someday... :) I would be open to do some volunteer work and learn on the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have all the tools or the workshop to learn on my own and cannot afford these... &#xA;If someone have some information where I can approach, I would be really glad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  I study in Germany and am looking for some information specifically in Germany  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am extremely Sorry, if its not the right forum to post such questions... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1581" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T18:34:17.043" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T07:51:19.817" Title="Bike Repair Information in Germany" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;germany&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3997" CreationDate="2011-05-31T17:02:25.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a lot of touring and really like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.swissstop.ch/Cross.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Swissstop Viking&lt;/a&gt; brake.  They are great in the rain, easy to install, and last a long time.  Have a good tour!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1265" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T17:02:25.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3999" CreationDate="2011-05-31T17:54:41.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to worry! Get yourself a part time job in the local bike shop in a supporting role - maybe not sales (unless you have the product knowledge), maybe not the workshop but something in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with what you can do - punctures, wheeling bikes in and out the yard, keeping the place tidy. A couple of weeks later have a go at assembling bikes. You will know if you are going to like it by then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cycling season has started it should be all hands to the deck in your local shop, show confidence and enthusiasm and you won't go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T17:54:41.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2011-05-31T18:09:00.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm with you on this. My summers often include a mix of cycling and hiking/backpacking, where cycling is the dominant activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things that have helped me. The major one is to use &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/trekking+poles+hiking+staffs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trekking poles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. I discovered trekking poles one summer after breezing through some difficult rides, and then being devastated on a not too serious hike. The poles significantly reduce the leg impact, especially on the descents. The second thing is to cross-train between hiking and cycling; but that depends on your personal time constraints and goals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T18:09:00.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3999" CreationDate="2011-05-31T18:28:20.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to be knowledgable on the level of a professional mechanic, Matthew's answer is the way to go. However, until you can find such a position, learning more about bikes will only help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I can't speak to resources in Germany, I can tell you that I've learned bicycle repair from three sources: from friends, asking questions at my bike shop, and reading online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who's a part-time bike mechanic, so that's obviously helpful. I try not to impose on him too much, but he enjoys talking about bikes--what rider doesn't? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your shop: When you bring your bike in to be repaired, ask questions. See if they'll let you watch while doing the repair. (If they're secretive about what they do, perhaps finding a better shop should be a priority.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the internet: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The most comprehensive bike site on the net is, without a doubt, the site put together by the late, great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;. It's in English, but the writing is good and easy to follow, and covers a broad range of topics. Some of these essays are parodies, most are serious, but all have good points to make. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Youtube has a great many &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bicycle+repair&amp;amp;aq=f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bicycle repair videos&lt;/a&gt;, and that's how I've learned how to adjust a hub and use a chain tool. Can anyone speak to the quality (or existence) of any repair videos in German? While you wouldn't be able to follow along, not having a shop or tools, watching the procedures will help familiarize you with them, so that things will go more quickly when you're in a shop later on. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This very site. We have users all over the world, and there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/maintenance&quot;&gt;many questions here on maintenance&lt;/a&gt; that have already been answered, and please feel free to ask more if you see a gap. We also have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index&quot;&gt;Terminology index&lt;/a&gt; you can consult (and even add to). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry I can't answer your question about local resources, but learn as much as you can on your own and you'll be better equipped to take advantage of local opportunities when they come along. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T18:38:27.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-05-31T20:35:21.787" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know about the &quot;right hand rule&quot;. If you curl the fingers of your right hand in the direction you're turning a screw, the screw moves in the direction of your thumb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left hand side of your cranks follows the left hand rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, your wife just asked you why you're curling your fingers and staring at your hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="975" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T20:35:21.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3997" CreationDate="2011-05-31T20:45:53.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trick with rim brakes is to get ones with replaceable blocks. In that way you can setup the brakes once so that they have perfect toe-in (small gap at back so they do not squeal) and so that they hit the rim dead-centre (not at an angle, falling off the bottom or hitting the tyre). Then, when the brakes get worn you can simply replace the inserts and not have to start again with the setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to different places selling different stuff and having made an investment in your setup, it then becomes a matter of what are the most widely available inserts. In the UK this probably means the 'Aztec' brand. From my personal experience the after-market Aztec blocks and shoes are better than the cheeze-o-blocks that Shimano supply. 'Kool Stop' are also pretty good and widely available in selected markets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for choice of rubber, if you are undecided, what is wrong with dual compound? In that way you get durability and stopping power all in one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not wanting to specify a shop/endorse a brand, however, here is what you should be looking for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.probikekit.com/uk/components/bicycle-brakes-and-pads/brake-pads/aztec-dual-compound-replacement-brake-blocks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(as Googled earlier)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always try the different compounds to see what works best front/rear, what wears your rims out quickest (soft on rear is a good idea as rear rims wear quicker) and what fits your budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving forward, the replacement shoes are a double whammy of time savings and money savings. Not only are they quicker to replace, they are cheaper and you do not lose your settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Enjoy your tour!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T20:45:53.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3999" CreationDate="2011-06-01T00:00:46.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for a local bike co-op or bike recycle group, often called &quot;send bikes to poor countries&quot; or similar (our local ones are &quot;bikes for africa&quot;, &quot;bikes for refugees&quot;). Or even a local cycle club. They tend to focus more on riding but might know of the other groups. I don't know specifically about Germany, but in Australia most major cities have some sort of group like this. Finding them can be somewhat tricky, as they're often not very well advertised. I would start by asking bicycle advocates, at bike shops and searching the internet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a cycle person in your local government they would be an excellent person to ask, even if their title suggests they only deal with infrastructure (bike paths) or law enforcement. Usually they are well connected with other cycling organisations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other avenue is bicycle maintenance courses, run either by local bike shops or as night classes by educational institutions. Again, ask the shops and look at the websites for the shops and schools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't have the tools or workshop yourself, looking at how-to sites on the internet is less useful to you. I would focus more on finding people near you who have websites. Be prepared to volunteer time to whatever their cause is in exchange for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T00:00:46.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3981" CreationDate="2011-06-01T01:32:19.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem on one bike and it turned out to be a problem with the derailler -- basically I had the wrong one.  Some deraillers don't have enough &quot;gear range&quot; such that when the chain length is adjusted to avoid slack on the smallest cogs, they become too tight on the larger cogs and don't allow enough &quot;wrap&quot; on the rear cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened on a bike where the airline wrecked the original Suntour triple and so I went with a (moderately) long-cage Shimano.  It skipped regardless of what I tried, so I got a Huret Duopar (the Suntour being unavailable) and it worked like a charm (though not particularly &quot;crisp&quot; in shifting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For those who are unaware, a &quot;derailer&quot; is the device that moves the chain sideways on a &quot;derailleur&quot; bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T12:36:45.477" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T12:36:45.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2011-06-01T01:48:19.633" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same bike, and have done a little loaded touring (though not recently, as my health no longer permits it).  I find that keeping the load low and balanced is the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the front it's important that the load be tightly attached, since if it is loose at all it will tend to wobble and resonate and can make the bike unmanageable on a rough surface.  And if the front rack isn't exceptionally stiff you may need to limit the front load accordingly.  The rear load is less critical, though obviously everything should be well-secured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all bags be aware of shoe clearance -- the front will tend to snag your toes in the turns, and the rear will catch your heels if too far forward.  Re the front, partly you just need to train yourself to position your feet correctly on sharp turns (outside foot down), but you do want to be sure that nothing is projecting back towards your toes unnecessarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the handlebar bag only for lightweight stuff that you will want easy access to -- if heavily loaded it can make the bike hard to handle, both because of the high center of gravity and because it will amplify vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to carry tools in a tool bag lashed under my seat.  This is a bit high, weight-wise, but a good tool bag (one that lashes to the seat rails rather than simply strapping on) will hold the tools vibration-free in most circumstances, and you don't have to dig to the bottom of your pannier if you have a flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T01:48:19.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4014" CreationDate="2011-06-01T01:51:23.300" Score="1" ViewCount="12686" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the moment, I'm in the market for a foldable 20&quot; bike, for &lt;strong&gt;commuting&lt;/strong&gt; purposes. I've done my research, and have found two appealing models:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=schwinn%20foldable%2020%22&amp;amp;qscrl=1&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=8048516064691228319&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=0pjlTdSSH4S8sAPzk4ntBg&amp;amp;ved=0CFwQ8wIwAg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwinn S2280&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.citizenbike.com/catalog.asp?product_category_id=1&amp;amp;product_id=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Citizen Bike MIAMI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of them would you recommend? &lt;strong&gt;How are they different?&lt;/strong&gt; Any differences in terms of weight, ease-of-use, ease-of-tuning, stability, accessories, size, portability, durability, joy-of-use/misery-of-use (it's for my dad)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1585" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:46:53.877" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T08:36:08.337" Title="Choosing a foldable 20&quot; bike: Schwinn S2280 vs. Citizen Bike Miami" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2019-02-12T08:02:13.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-06-01T02:15:18.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lessee -- roughly in priority order --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water.  Even on a short 30-minute ride I always carry water.  Not that I drink that much on a short ride, but should I fall and get &quot;road rash&quot; a squirt of water can quiet the burn and make it possible to complete the ride in relative comfort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare tube, tire &quot;irons&quot; (I prefer a &quot;Slick Stick&quot;), and a decent frame pump. (Many frame pumps are worthless -- be sure to actually try using yours to completely inflate a tire before you have to depend on it.)  A patch kit is a good idea as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Money -- in addition to a wallet you may be carrying, stash $20 or so in a &quot;secret&quot; place in your tool bag or whatever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multi-tool -- screwdriver, a few allen wrenches, a few hex wrenches.  Not only used to tighten things, but the screwdriver may be needed to pry a chain out from behind the granny ring, pry the wax out of your ears, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cell phone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hockey tape.  I carry this rather than duct tape or electrical tape because it's so versatile.  It can be used to wrap a handlebar, secure a loose fender, hold in place an impromptu bandage, and a dozen other things.  (My handlebars are permanently wrapped with hockey tape, which I refresh about every two years.  Much better grip than standard handlebar tape.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zip ties, in a couple of small/medium sizes.  Can be used to secure a bag if the clips/straps break, hold on a fender if the screw falls out, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small first aid kit.  You don't really need (or want the weight/bulk of) a packaged kit.  A plastic bag containing a half-dozen band-aids, about 4 gauze pads, some antiseptic cream, and a small roll of adhesive tape is all you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke wrench (if the one on your multi-tool isn't very good).  Most often used on a wheel with a broken spoke to loosen the opposite side so that the brakes don't rub (quite so badly).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A short length of chain, some &quot;repair links&quot;, and a chain tool.  I no longer use a chain tool often enough to be good at using it, so the repair links (SRAM) are the way to go.  But you still need the tool to &quot;crack&quot; a damaged chain and remove damaged links, and to similarly &quot;crack&quot; the length of repair chain.  (NB: You need to be sure that the chain, repair links, and tool are the right size for your chain.  There are 3-4 different common chain widths these days.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T02:15:18.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3903" CreationDate="2011-06-01T02:30:56.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wax-like chain lube on a new chain primarily serves to keep it from rusting in storage and transit.  Oil would leak off and make a mess, while not protecting the chain as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use old-fashioned chain wax on a chain but it's a pain to apply -- basically you have to remove the chain and dip it in melted wax (which was generally thinned with kerosene, creating something of a fire hazard).  Modern liquid lubes are available in a variety of &quot;wetnesses&quot; from quite &quot;dry&quot; to gooky-wet, so no need to use old-fashioned wax.  (The &quot;dry&quot; liquid lubes basically contain a wax-like substance &quot;suspended&quot; in a &quot;vehicle&quot; that evaporates rapidly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With modern chain cleaning systems much of this is no longer a big deal.  You can easily clean your chain once or twice a week (or after every ride if you wish) and apply new oil, so much less need to worry about &quot;tuning&quot; the lube for the conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T02:30:56.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2011-06-01T02:40:12.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, your first defense is to not have anything that looks like it's worth stealing.  (Simply a matter of riding the bike enough.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, you can have a hardware store make up a lightweight cable about 3-4 feet long with loops crimped on both ends.  This can be looped around the front wheel, through the seat frame, and then locked with your regular lock.  If you have bags you can run the cable through eyes on the bags as well.  (And you can make the eyes with a similar but shorter cable bolted to the inside frame of the bag.)  This won't deter the determined thief but will discourage the &quot;opportunist&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T02:40:12.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4010" CreationDate="2011-06-01T02:44:13.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the real difference is the weight: Schwinn 47 lbs, Citizen 32 lbs. That's substantial. If your dad is going to be carrying it much that 15 pound difference will really count. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My impression is that the Schwinn is compromised to get the low stand-over height, and everything follows from there. That can be important if your dad has limited mobility, but if it's not essential don't buy a bike that adds 15 pounds to get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically the rest doesn't add up to much - they're both bottom-of-the-range folding bikes that use cheap components and will probably not last very long (a thousand miles or so). I think you need to be clear what you want the bike for and what you expect from it. If your dad is too heavy or rides too much the bike will fall apart quite quickly. Both bikes will be heavy, unwieldy luggage when folded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be concerned about the wheels on the Schwinn, the &quot;6 spoke&quot; pattern wheels look like a gimmick to me. they might go out of true easily and look hard to fix. But they look pretty. The Schwinn is 7 speed, the Citizen 6 speed, but that's pretty irrelevant as neither bike will cope well with hills or high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Schwinn comes with a bag, for the Citizen the bag is $29 extra. If that's important to you, it adds 15% to the price of the Citizen. But I think the Citizen is a (slightly) better bike - they've focused on a basic bike with basic components rather than paying extra for marketing bullet points (&quot;sprung saddle&quot;, &quot;pretty wheels&quot;), so they can spend a tiny bit more on slightly better parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="28785" LastEditDate="2019-02-05T08:36:08.337" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T08:36:08.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="827" CreationDate="2011-06-01T02:52:10.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fell twice in the first week that I had clipless, and then didn't fall again for about 5 years (and that time was something of a &quot;planned fall&quot; when I couldn't quite make it up a steep hill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second time I fell was especially embarrassing, as I came to a stop at a traffic light and then proceeded to slowly fall over, in front of about 15 witnesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to learn is how to unclip early and pedal with the arch of your foot, when conditions indicate that you might need to stop suddenly (as when approaching a &quot;stale green&quot; traffic light).  You usually only need to unclip one foot when doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm partial to the SPD system -- fairly simple, several suppliers of pedals, &quot;walkable&quot; shoes.  But then it's the only system I've ever used.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-09-02T03:19:59.997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T03:19:59.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3874" CreationDate="2011-06-01T03:03:19.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience the pedals are most likely the culprit.  I've had brand-new, decent quality (well, a couple steps up from the cheapest) pedals begin clicking after only a week or two, with no rain exposure or whatever.  Drives you crazy.  And most pedals these days are nor really serviceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, whenever there's the slightest hint of a problem with the crank it's wise to be sure that the crank bolts are tight -- a loose crank bolt can wreck the crank arm and spindle very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T03:03:19.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3950" CreationDate="2011-06-01T03:16:39.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I note that no one has mentioned that you want to have separate control over front and rear to prevent flipping.  [Well, on re-reading, I see that Stephen did.]  The front brake carries about 80% of the braking power, but if it locks up the bike flips rather quickly.  If the rear brake locks up the bike will tend to slide sideways.  When attempting to stop as rapidly as possible one should apply the most force (2-3x) to the front brake but then, if the rear wheel begins to slip, release the FRONT brake.  (The rear wheel will slip because it's getting &quot;lighter&quot; due to the front brake being near lock-up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T03:16:39.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4021" CreationDate="2011-06-01T10:10:32.680" Score="0" ViewCount="1051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a local brand and am hoping to shift to a new bike. I have an option to buy a Trek 6000 D. I know it is an expensive bike. I am looking to use the bike every day for about 5-30 kms. A few offroad days hopefully, but thats about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering if this is a good idea? Your suggestions please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1586" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T13:09:12.937" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T08:31:26.903" Title="Trek 6000 for a beginner" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4020" CreationDate="2011-06-01T10:35:00.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trek makes good, reliable bikes across their price range.  I have 25 of 'em in our patrol-bike &quot;fleet&quot; at present.&#xA;The 6000 is well-reviewed, but it is designed and delivered as an off-road machine.  It will be less than optimum when ridden on pavement.&#xA;If you were going to spend most of your time riding on pavement, then a simple change of tires would be of considerable benefit.&#xA;Not that you can't ride a mountain bike on the road, thousands do so all the time.  It's just that those knobby tires will squirm and wear rapidly, and the riding position is not the best for long stretches on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T10:35:00.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4024" CreationDate="2011-06-01T11:31:44.103" Score="4" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to understand more about how the design of a bike affects its speed (assume a normal, two-wheeled bike with gears).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I assume that weight has little effect, on level ground, except when starting and stopping? If not, why not: what is the effect and how big is it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the two biggest factors wind resistance, and tire rolling resistance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you point me towards data for the above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolling resistances for various types/sizes of tire at different speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind resistances for different rider positions at different speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically how much difference is there between e.g. a 700x23 mm tire, and a 700x32 mm tire at 90 psi?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T02:24:46.237" Title="Effects of design on speed?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;design&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4020" CreationDate="2011-06-01T12:44:32.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;M. Werner explained the purpose of that model pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about buying &quot;too expensive bike&quot;, do not be so. If you can afford something, you should not be ashamed of using professional equipment for your own activities. you will enjoy smoother shifting and rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With expensive bikes comes another problem - you can not leave it outside, even if it is locked to something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2011-06-07T08:31:26.903" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T08:31:26.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4022" CreationDate="2011-06-01T13:35:28.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to use an excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mne.psu.edu/lamancusa/ProdDiss/Bicycle/bikecalc1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;power calculator&lt;/a&gt; to answer questions like these. Play with the numbers, and you can see the exact effects on wind resistance of different rider positions or changing the type of tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, at race speeds, wind resistance requires by far the most power to overcome. It ends up being anywhere from 85%–90% of your overall power expenditure. For example, with that calculator, it takes a fully-crouched 150lb rider somewhere around 650W to maintain a 35mph pace. Remove air resistance entirely and it only requires an astonishing 50W. At the same power output (650W), with no air resistance, the same rider could reach a ridiculous speed of 475mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/aero/aerodynamics.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; also covers the topic, providing an excellent cost–benefit breakdown for various aerodynamic improvements. And &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_performance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; makes the claim that &quot;lowering a bike's weight by 1 lb&amp;hellip; will have the same effect over a 40 km time trial on flat ground as removing a protrusion into the air the size of a pencil&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T13:35:28.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-01T14:52:50.063" Score="2" ViewCount="5870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a recommendation for a good bike polish for carbon clear coat frames.  Something the fills in minor hair line surface scratches and leaves a nice shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1542" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T17:44:13.777" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T06:06:05.437" Title="Bike Polish for Carbon Frames" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3941" CreationDate="2011-06-01T15:11:28.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting that proper ride nutrition does not happen only pre, during, and post ride. It is important to eat a healthy balanced meal every day. This might sound obvious to some, but you would be surprised at how many people don't understand this. As for nutrition for a ride I do something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Pre-Ride: Breakfast&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A breakfast high in protein and carbs an hour or so before I go on my ride. The reason you you focus on protein as well as carbs is so that you feel fuller longer. It sucks when you are in the middle of a ride and you can't wait to eat. The less you are distracted the better your workout will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;During Ride: Energy Drink&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An energy drink like a Gatorade without the sugar. This is essential during a ride because you are losing things like electrolytes and fluids while riding, especially while it's hot, and you need to replenish that or face dehydration and exhaustion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Post-Ride: Lunch/Dinner&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another meal high in protein and carbs. When I say &quot;carbs&quot; I don't usually head for the starches. I am talking more your fruits and vegetables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have health factors that make me a little different from other people, but the principals are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T15:11:28.143" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2011-06-01T15:44:20.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure about filling in hairlines, but I have used Pledge and have been very happy with the results! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T15:44:20.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2011-06-01T16:41:04.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to look beyond the bike forums and head into the world of cars. I know cars and mountain bikes are slower than the world of cycling, but carbon fibre is now accessible to the motorist. Some of them polish and polish and polish and polish. Zaino is well worth a Google...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T16:41:04.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1849" CreationDate="2011-06-01T17:49:09.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This advice may be better applied to steel frame bikes where rust and corrosion are a problem.  Leaving a (very) thin oil layer will keep water from reaching any pits or cracks and turning to rust.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main benefit is that it prevents nasty stuff from getting extremely stuck on (tar, bugs, etc)--but it won't magically keep your bike spotless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a hard time cleaning the nasty stuff off or are starting to see corrosion issues then it might be worth it, otherwise it's probably not going to have any real benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T17:49:09.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4032" CreationDate="2011-06-01T18:58:36.070" Score="17" ViewCount="113895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 182cm (5' 11'') tall and am looking into buying a new frame for my mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now i have a 19'' frame and i found a good deal on a 17'' frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy from the shop told me that it shouldn't be a problem for me to get a 17'' frame since you can have a longer stem and seat post so its fits alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller frame means lighter but what are other advantages and disadvantages ?&#xA;Would you choose a smaller frame ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The difference top length (seat tube to handlebar stem) from my 19'' to this 17'' is 1cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2011-06-03T16:14:40.843" LastActivityDate="2020-04-25T15:53:08.023" Title="What are the advantages and disadvantages of riding a smaller Mountain Bike frame?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2011-06-01T19:10:22.263" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A smaller frame also means a smaller reach--that's the distance from the saddle to the handlebars, and if you have short arms and/or torso height then a smaller frame may be a good idea. If not, you may find this frame too small. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be mitigated by sliding the saddle backwards in the rails a bit, but this can account for perhaps an inch at most. Changing the stem size can also help. If you want a more upright position on the bike, a smaller frame could help somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T19:10:22.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2011-06-01T19:17:21.787" Score="14" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a smaller frame, you will need an appropriately longer handlebar stem in order to retain the cockpit length. This will affect handling of the bike: it will feel more &quot;lively&quot;, which can be good in some cases (tight turns, difficult terrain) or bad (less stable) - in most cases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A smaller frame will be marginally less reliable, and more prone to break, due to bigger stresses in its structure; longer stem and seat post mean bigger levers to exert force on the frame. But this should not be a significant effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, a 17&quot; frame is an inch or two too small for your size. I would not recommend taking the smaller one without actually riding it for a couple of hours and making sure it's comfortable for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T19:17:21.787" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1849" CreationDate="2011-06-01T20:19:17.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was mountain biking here in Missouri, mud and other gruck were pretty much standard.  I must say I never really obsessed about cleaning the bike... When I got home I'd simply leave it on the car rack and hose it down with a standard garden hose to get the big stuff off.&#xA;It was an aluminum-framed model with stainless cables and such.. Not much to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it off the rack when done, bounce it on the pavement a couple of times and leave it sitting in the Sun to dry. &#xA;Re-lube the chain and DRs.... &#xA;Funny story.... I came out of one of the local trailheads one spring afternoon literally covered with mud.  Bike, me, everything.&#xA;A young couple were just getting their bikes ready to go.  The girl looks at me and says..&quot;Is it muddy?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T20:19:17.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4022" CreationDate="2011-06-01T20:24:18.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that though impractical for most uses, the speed figures for streamliner and other highly-aerodynamic designs are far greater than anything obtainable from a &quot;normal&quot; bike.&#xA;The faster you go, the more air you're pushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ultimate bike speeds are obtainable through &quot;motor pacing&quot;, wherein the cyclist rides in the aerodynamic &quot;bubble&quot; behind a fast vehicle like a truck or a locomotive.&#xA;These bikes are so high-geared as to be unrideable at lower speeds, and they are decidedly not light...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does illustrate the importance of air resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T20:24:18.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2011-06-01T21:01:45.713" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both Neil &amp;amp; Ttarchala are spot on. The one additional comment or perspective that should be considered is with a smaller cockpit your body may not be stretched out enough and for me the impact of mountain biking on a bike with too tight a cockpit wreaks havoc on my BACK!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of your spine as a coil...is there more flex when it pushed together or stretched out...that flex softens the ride and allows for more movement which ultimately improves your riding, is less taxing on the body therefore less fatiguing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, too long a stem tends to put too much weight forward which increases the likelihood of  issues with your upper body and increasing propensity to endo :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful..probably not a viable option! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T21:01:45.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3997" CreationDate="2011-06-01T22:15:24.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no qualms about recommending a brand because I ride 3000-4000 miles a year and have tried and worn out a lot of different brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hands down, the best pad for touring that I have used is the Kool-Stop dual-compound mountain shoes but they are unfortunately for linear-pull brakes only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next best is the Kool-Stop Mountain Salmon, which are suitable for all bike types (not just MTBs) with non-linear-type rim brakes.  These have a bit less durability than the dual compound pads but slightly better stopping power.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For info only (not an endorsement of any particular bike shop): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#mountain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#mountain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1474" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T22:15:24.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4040" CreationDate="2011-06-02T06:59:31.883" Score="7" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, some context: I commute to work on a fixie and go for longer rides on weekends on a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often find my legs get sore/tired, especially when I've been on a longer ride or have pushed the speed on my commute... sometimes it's so much fun I can't take it easy :)  My calves seem to be more affected than my thighs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether compression clothes are very helpful. I haven't tried any, but am quite interested. Also, would you recommend compression gear during the ride, or after riding, for recovery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T17:27:38.707" Title="Compression clothing" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4045" CreationDate="2011-06-02T13:28:48.680" Score="33" ViewCount="24668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about rims based on information in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3997/best-brake-pads-for-long-distance-travelling&quot;&gt;another question&lt;/a&gt;.  The person asking states that he doesn't want his rims wearing down.  Is this really a problem?  Assuming you don't wear the brake pads down to the metal, can the rubber pads actually wear down rims?  Does it make a difference if you use aluminium, steel, or carbon rims?  My rims are aluminium with  tiny grooves on them.  Is there anything I should look for to ensure that they aren't worn down?  I have over 10,000 KM of mostly city riding on my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T17:38:45.267" Title="Can your rims wear down from too much braking?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4038" CreationDate="2011-06-02T13:58:54.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.active.com/triathlon/Articles/The-Physiology-Behind-Compression-Clothes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;studies&lt;/a&gt; have shown no significant benefit to compression clothing in terms of leg fatigue. What I notice more so is that the hight at which you sit and the bend of your leg play a much larger role in leg fatigue. That compounded with the position and way you push the pedal probably are the most significant causes of fatigue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want is to have your seat high enough so that your leg is only slightly bent at the lowest position of your pedals on either side. Also you want to push more with the front of your foot. This will use the calf muscle more and put less pressure on your knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can see these questions for more info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/51/how-do-i-determine-the-correct-position-for-my-bicycle-seat&quot;&gt;How do I determine the correct position for my bicycle seat?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1007/how-do-i-make-sure-my-bikes-the-proper-size&quot;&gt;How do I make sure my bike's the proper size?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2319/at-what-height-should-i-have-my-seat-on-a-road-bike&quot;&gt;At what height should I have my seat on a road bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3963/what-is-the-recommended-procedure-for-adjusting-the-fit-of-my-bike&quot;&gt;What is the recommended procedure for adjusting the fit of my bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/235/what-are-some-good-exercises-to-prevent-knee-pain&quot;&gt;What are some good exercises to prevent knee pain?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T13:58:54.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3981" CreationDate="2011-06-02T14:17:17.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After seeing my sensei bike mechanic he pointed out that I had attached my new middle chain ring the wrong way around. :-) However, I was doubting that it was causing the problem I was seeing (and also the same problem had been present with the old chainring) and being constrained time wise I decided to replace the back derailleur as well. After replacing the derailleur with a new SLX the a similar problem was still present on the middle chain ring but no longer present on the smallest chain-ring. I then flipped the middle chainring the right way around and the problem was gone! Wohoo! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in conclusion I do believe the old derailleur was the main culprit but can’t be sure since I also messed about with the middle chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1573" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2019-01-08T13:59:26.843" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T13:59:26.843" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4039" CreationDate="2011-06-02T14:20:12.300" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short Answer: Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer Answer: Yes, but maybe not for the reasons you are thinking of. Rim wear is mainly caused by dirt and grime that gets caught between the brakes and the rim, rubbing it like sand paper. The most important thing to do is clean your rims and pads as often as possible. For that matter clean your drive train as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as different materials go, it is a lot easier to bend back steel than aluminium or carbon. So if you do have a steel rim you are better off if something goes wrong. There is a tool called a dental caliper (pictured below) that can help you find out if your rim is worn down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike-works.blogspot.com/2009/01/bike-rims-wear-out.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an interesting story and some good info on bent rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oecfa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dental Claiper&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T20:44:12.740" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T20:44:12.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4039" CreationDate="2011-06-02T14:56:54.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes are much more prone to this, as they are commonly ridden in dirt, sand, mud, and other crud that acts like a grinding compound on the rims.&#xA;Bikes ridden in more forgiving environments will likely not exhibit any appreciable wear for a very long time.  My particular patrol bike is about 15 years old, with the original rims....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T14:56:54.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4039" CreationDate="2011-06-02T15:15:06.720" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have worn through quite a few rims, mostly because I live in a hilly area and I ride my bikes more than I clean them. That said, I do think that if you are to clean anything on a bike then the rims are probably what you want to be cleaning most importantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of years ago I inflated the tyres to the value on the sidewall, walked away from the garage and heard a very loud bang. The rim had split in two on one side and I was very glad I was not in the shed at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A year before that - on a small wheeled folding bike - I had a similar problem. Although I had been running some experimental brake blocks that were supposed to be 'extra good' the problem was the wheel size - smaller wheels wear out quicker because there is a smaller braking surface. A 5cm long section appeared buckled, as if I had hit a kerb, which I never do on a folding bike for obvious reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also had some high-end Mavic rims wear through. Those had holes in the outer sidewall but they did not fail in a catastrophic way. However, they did feel 'spongy' and that was not just spoke tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the brakes on my 3-speed will never wear through its 50's vintage genuine-stainless-steel rims, but stopping distances are comparable to what you get with an aircraft carrier. Steel is such a no-no for rims - heavy and useless under braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how to mitigate against catastrophic rim failure, you may want to consider getting wheels with 'wear indicators' in them. A lot of the better MTBs and Road Bikes have these. Alex Rims - as found on Giant MTB's have the 'wear indicator' - this appears as a black line in the side of the rim. This should stand out against the un-anodized sidewall and when it does not you could potentially have problemos. I have not tried them myself, personally I think that it is better to have a feel for one's bike - if the wheel is too springy you know that it is on its way. The problem is rarely with the front rim (unless you do all your braking on the front). During regular cleaning you can feel the concave side of the rim, and those grooves but you don't really know if they are getting a bit too paper thin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Returning to my comparative experience of the Mavic's that survived having big holes in them and the cheap rims that failed, I would be more inclined to go for rims like the Mavic where the outer sidewall is not 100% important to the structural integrity. The 'wear line' is a good idea but not really for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed 6000 miles - 25 miles *5 * 50 on the folding bike before the rims went, this was a hard commute with a lot of braking due to how London is a 'sliding block puzzle'. 6000 miles is an accurate guess on how long the cheapo rims on that bike lasted, that is around the 10K mark in 'clicks'. I did trial quite a few products on that bike including some 'extra good' brake blocks. The circumference braking area was probably half that of your bike, so, by rule of thumb I reckon you have got 1/3 to 1/2 way through your rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays I do not reach for the back brake so readily - certainly not automatically when the front one will do. For me rim wear is a real consideration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T15:15:06.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4047" CreationDate="2011-06-02T16:18:18.990" Score="11" ViewCount="9300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/762/recommendation-for-panniers-used-off-the-bike-a-lot&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; about Panniers, but as far as I can tell, the Arkel Panniers aren't available in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any recommendations for a good laptop holding pannier that converts into a backpack or a messenger bag style (I only don't want to wear it as a messenger bag while cycling), and is also readily available in the UK? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to wear a messenger bag while I'm cycling, as my issue is that my current bag is making my back sweat like crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T09:44:07.670" Title="Recommendation for panniers to carry a laptop for daily commute That's available in the UK" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4046" CreationDate="2011-06-02T16:38:32.833" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always get a laptop sleeve and slide that into a big enough pannier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timbuk2.com/&quot;&gt;Timbuk2&lt;/a&gt; has a couple &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timbuk2.com/tb2/retail/search.htm?q=pannier&quot;&gt;pannier options&lt;/a&gt; that both have an included laptop sleeve and are designed to be easily carried off the bike. One converts to a messenger bag, the other more of a &quot;shoulder bag&quot;. Looks like Timbuk2 has some of their stuff sold retail in the UK, and they also do direct orders with international shipping. I don't have either bag, but I do have a laptop messenger and a couple regular messenger bags from them that I've been happy with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their site is a bit of a pain to provide links to, but looks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basil.nl/&quot;&gt;Basil&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.basil.nl/assortiment_detail.asp?titel_var=2&amp;amp;lang=3&amp;amp;id=280&quot;&gt;similar kind of laptop messenger pannier&lt;/a&gt;. Their site shows plenty of distribution in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.co.uk/index.php/bike/rear-panniers.html&quot;&gt;Ortlieb's rear/larger panniers&lt;/a&gt; have an &quot;Office&quot; and &quot;Downtown&quot; line that both seem to be designed to accomodate a 15 inch laptop (via a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.co.uk/index.php/bike/bike-accessories/notebook-insert.html&quot;&gt;sleeve/insert&lt;/a&gt; you purchase separately). Two different mounting options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What &lt;strong&gt;I actually do&lt;/strong&gt; when carrying the laptop on my bike is either bungee a laptop messenger to the top of the rack or stick a (well-padded) sleeve into a pannier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-06-02T20:22:40.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T20:22:40.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4038" CreationDate="2011-06-02T17:07:27.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use compression clothing because they are usually better at wicking away sweat and keeping me dry and cool (remember cotton kills). I also like that because they are tight fitting I don't have to worry about them getting caught in my bike, I have had shorts catch on different parts of my frame before. Another plus is that I think I look pretty good in compression clothing. Bike shorts with a bit of pad are awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as far as fatigue I don't have any information. I think the prevailing theory is that compressed muscles will be less fatigued, but I have my doubts with that theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1552" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T17:07:27.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4038" CreationDate="2011-06-02T17:27:38.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that the use of compression socks after long rides helps with recovery.  Feet that feel like a lead weight are never a good thing.  Especially when you need to hit the road again the very next day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1542" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T17:27:38.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4022" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:12:57.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, air resistance is a big factor.  If you look at the formula for calculating &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_equation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;drag&lt;/a&gt;, you'll see that the drag is a function of the square of the speed.  This means that the drag a 5 mph would be 25 times the drag at 1mph and the drag at 10 mph would be 100 times the drag at 1 mph.  For 30 mph you have 900 times the drag of 1 mph, even though you're only going 30 times as fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of interest is that colder air actually causes more resistance as it is less fluid than hot air.  So as temperatures get lower, your air resistance increases.  Because of this, wind power generators get more electricity when in colder climates, assuming the wind speed is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:12:57.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:22:13.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedros.com/bikelust.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Lust&lt;/a&gt; is very popular, but I've also heard the Pledge recommendation. Again, not sure either will fill scratches, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:22:13.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4039" CreationDate="2011-06-02T18:49:17.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can offer an anecdote that suggests that proper maintenance is a good thing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My winter bike, which I just barely maintained, as I wore them down into the ground and then threw them out, riding all winter long in Toronto.  I also only bought cheap junk bikes to do this with.  Better bikes for nicer weather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have noted, letting the pads wear down, or dirt between the pads and the rim can easily destroy a rim.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twice (I should have learned) I had the brakes pierce the rim, get buried, and I flew over the handlebars.  Once onto the sidewalk, once onto the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was dumb, and painful.  Don't do it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:49:17.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3941" CreationDate="2011-06-02T19:53:26.023" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is primarily based on 2 books by Chris Carmichael. &lt;em&gt;The Time Crunched Cyclist&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Food for Fitness&lt;/em&gt;, plus some other sources that I am unable to dig up at the moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the gist of it... Following a race, intense workout, or an endurance ride, the muscles and liver are glycogen depleted. The key to recovery is to replenish glycogen so that you begin your &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; event with full glycogen stores. The major building block of glycogen is carbohydrate. The body quickly and easily disassembles carbohydrates into glucose and that glucose is readily available for conversion into glycogen by both the liver and muscle cells. Protein &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; synthesized into glycogen, however protein must be first transported to the liver, converted to glucose, and then transported to the muscles. So, restoring glycogen levels with protein is less efficient and more prolonged than restoring glycogen with carbohydrates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Carmichael, the 3 critical components post-ride are carbohydrate, sodium/electrolytes, and fluid. And, your body is primed to replenish muscle glycogen stores most rapidly within the first 30 to 60 minutes following exercise, and the sooner the better. As GuyZee points out in another answer, &quot;the glycogen window&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to protein... Protein is also important for recovery, primarily for muscle tissue repair and additionally protein enhances the ability of muscle tissue to utilize carbohydrate in the replenishment of glycogen. A general rule of thumb is a 3:1 carb to protein ratio; but some experts recommend a 4:1 ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence:&#xA;Carbs for glycogen replenishment.&#xA;Protein for muscle repair.&#xA;Electrolytes and fluid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples... One would be something like a bowl of rice and sauteed vegetables plus chicken breasts. And for a &quot;technical&quot; product, something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hammernutrition.com/products/recoverite.rr.html?navcat=recovery&quot;&gt;Recoverite by Hammer Nutrition&lt;/a&gt;. I personally like the Hammer products as they don't use sucrose and high fructose corn syrup; instead a primary ingredient is maltodextrin which is basically long chains of glucose. Sometimes I don't have time for an actual meal, so I'll use Recoverite in that case. It can also be chocolate milk. The basic idea is that you need to replace and repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;FWIW - None of this matters for the casual cyclist or the &quot;typical commuter&quot;. Just eat normal, healthy meals and you'll be fine.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few references:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jssm.org/vol3/n3/3/v3n3-3pdf.pdf&quot;&gt;REGULATION OF MUSCLE GLYCOGEN REPLETION, MUSCLE PROTEIN SYNTHESIS AND REPAIR FOLLOWING EXERCISE&lt;/a&gt; (International Society of Sports Nutrition Symposium)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hammernutrition.com/knowledge/recovery-a-crucial-component-for-athletic-success.1278.html?sect=advanced-knowledge-section&quot;&gt;RECOVERY - A CRUCIAL COMPONENT FOR ATHLETIC SUCCESS&lt;/a&gt; (Hammer nutrition)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/369645-how-to-plan-post-exercise-recovery-meals/&quot;&gt;How to Plan Post-Exercise Recovery Meals&lt;/a&gt; (livestrong.com)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T21:51:38.873" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T21:51:38.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4046" CreationDate="2011-06-02T20:15:40.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebagshop.com/vaude-egger-commuter-pannier-p-1184.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vaude Egger&lt;/a&gt; and have been extremely happy with it. It mounts securely, detaches easily, has a dedicated laptop slot and enough room left over for a change of clothes, extra shoes and various odds and ends. The result is a little heavy, especially when you add in my ridiculous Fahgettaboudit ulock, but for somebody who &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; carrying the same load in a backpack it's night and day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T20:15:40.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4046" CreationDate="2011-06-02T20:18:00.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Panniers have not worked out too well for me when it comes to lugging the laptop around. There are also those panniers that look like posh briefcase bags and they have not worked out too well either. It just doesn't work on the weight distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bag that did work best was the Carradice Camper Long Flap that I bought for my retro roadster. I wanted the 1950's look with cotton material, leather straps and buckles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carradice.co.uk/index.php?page_id=product&amp;amp;under=type&amp;amp;product_id=35&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carradice.co.uk/index.php?page_id=product&amp;amp;under=type&amp;amp;product_id=35&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought an extra bracket to put it on my commuter bike and it works much more brilliantly than I imagined it would. Side pockets have luxury ready eats in them - I can access them when riding along - and tools/spare tube. The mini-pump goes in the main compartment, otherwise I am not having to open that en-route, which is good if it rains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'cotton duck' material expands in the wet to become magically waterproof. it actually works well and doesn't get abraded like other bags do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the notebook, it is optimally placed for weight, suspended in the saddlebag and therefore shock absorbed without being excessively packaged (it has a neoprene sleeve). Naturally there is room for my change of clothes, and, due to the 'long-flap' I can get a couple of bags of shopping in there too - Tardis like or what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a feeling of security with the notebook where it is. Off bike I don't bother with a shoulder strap, the handle does fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I honestly believe people in the fifties were onto something with the saddlebag. There is no need for a pannier rack and the weight distribution is so much better. Naysayers will say you need the weight low, actually you need it next to your own centre of gravity - tucked behind your bum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lights strap onto the bag very nicely - one less bit of stuff to not have to take off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the best bit of the Carradice bag is that you get admiring looks from 'CTC' vintage cyclists as well as the ladies that are into their handbags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for camping - I can fit tent, sleeping bag, thermarest and picnic map and some clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an optional tool-roll that fits on the top, I have one but don't use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T20:18:00.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3997" CreationDate="2011-06-02T20:26:32.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using Manthauser Pads for more than 30 years. Don't know if they came up with something better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1571" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T20:26:32.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4046" CreationDate="2011-06-02T22:57:28.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ortleib Office panniers. It's quite heavy, but totally bombproof, and large enough for me to drop my whole laptop bag plus shoes and a change of clothes into. It unclips easily and comes with a shoulder strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T22:57:28.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4059" CreationDate="2011-06-02T23:34:32.220" Score="7" ViewCount="9807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at buying a set of new brake cables and I'm wondering what the difference is between the stainless steel ones and the galvanised cable?  I'm only getting relatively cheap ones but I can't find an obvious description of the benefits/disadvantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T03:12:55.573" Title="What's the difference between galvanised brake cables versus stainless steel?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4058" CreationDate="2011-06-03T00:17:47.187" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Galvanised ones rust eventually. Especially in the high wear areas. Stainless steel ones don't rust, but possibly don't deal quite as well with sharp curves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the extra dollar is critical, always buy the stainless steel ones. The bike shops I've been in don't even sell galvanised ones any more because the price difference is so small and the benefit so far outweighs it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T00:17:47.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4058" CreationDate="2011-06-03T01:05:44.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I refurbish old bikes, and it's very common for cheaper machines to have cables rusted badly...The better iron usually comes equipped with stainless and they normally look fine even if the bike has been sitting out in the weather for several seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T01:05:44.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4058" CreationDate="2011-06-03T02:00:01.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am sure you get the material science part - stainless steel does not rust. However, the cables on my bike are due for replacement right now and none of them have rusted. Frayed ends, outers that route badly (to get cracked), non-existent end-caps and outers that compress also come into the equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be swapping my worn-but-posh cables for properly assembled cables soon and I will go for cheap and cheerful (within limits). I advise that you do the same. With the money saved you will be more willing to swap them out next time you refurbish. New cables always trump old cables for shifting and braking and the steel being stainless or not makes very little practical difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T02:00:01.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4068" CreationDate="2011-06-03T04:52:36.300" Score="5" ViewCount="7715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride an SE Lager fixed. I'm riding on sealed paths and roads pretty much all of my commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On wet days my bike picks up a lot of water and also a lot of sandy/silty residue. It coats the frame and also clogs up the chain a lot. I imagine that my chain life will be suffering because of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried running mudguards and seen what kind of a difference it makes? My fixie doesn't have a huge amount of frame clearance around the wheels so I'll need something fairly minimal. I've seen these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crudproducts.com/products/roadracer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crud Roadracers&lt;/a&gt; and they look like they have good coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I know that putting mudguards on a fixie is sacrilege (to some people... I'm not in that camp). But I'm running it for endurance and reduced maintenance, not exactly for style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: Thanks for a bunch of awesome comments. However the thing I'm really wanting to focus on is whether I'll get a significantly longer lifespan for my running gear. I have waterproofs and don't mind the mess so much, I'm just trying to reduce my maintenance load and expense. The major areas I see that might be improved is chain (and therefore cogs) and maybe the bottom bracket, if I can reduce the amount of water hitting the seat pole and running down into the bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;: I bought a pair of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crudproducts.com/products/roadracer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crud Roadracers&lt;/a&gt; and, wow, they make such a difference. I rode on quite a wet day, but my running gear and clothes all stayed completely dry. I'm concerned they might not be durable for a commuter, but I'm certainly sold on mudguards/fenders for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:46:38.807" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T12:33:30.897" Title="Do mudguards/fenders help? If so, what are the best for a fixie commuter?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4064" CreationDate="2011-06-03T06:22:32.760" Score="9" ViewCount="2361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one bike, which is pretty cheap. It's a Mid-Level Mountain Bike of Motache &lt;sub&gt;(I tried to find a picture but, no luck)&lt;/sub&gt;. But, now I want to upgrade this bike progressively and change it into High Level Bike &lt;sub&gt;(or somewhere near)&lt;/sub&gt; pduring course of time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For doing this, my policy is if something breaks down, replace it with high level parts. I am not sure if this is how I am suppose to do it. Like for my recent upgrade when my rear derailleur broke, I replaced with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/drivetrain/derailleur/shimano/xtr-rear-derailler/prd_351013_116crx.aspx&quot;&gt;Shimano XTR&lt;/a&gt; which is pretty neat. But, it is going to take a long time to upgrade i think. So I want to upgrade something now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my bike contains V Brake, has lowest grade of fork suspension &lt;sub&gt;( I think, its terrible )&lt;/sub&gt;. 7*3 Speed Gears, normal shimano crank set and etc. &lt;sub&gt;(you can guess the remaining.)&lt;/sub&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, from the passionate and experts cyclist, I would like to know what should be first my upgrade and so on. One of mechanics and also my buddy told me upgrade my suspension first. I use my bike for daily road riding, and occasional off roads trips in holidays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:23:08.163" Title="Suggestions for progressive upgradation of bike" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4063" CreationDate="2011-06-03T06:33:20.027" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried the same approach that you're outlining with a bike I bought (a Shogun), but I had heaps of trouble trying to upgrade components. Every time I upgraded one component it wouldn't work well with the other existing components. I tried to change the cassette but it wouldn't work with my derailleur (even my mechanic couldn't figure out why).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other problem with upgrading is that each component bought individually will be vastly more expensive than buying a bike with better components in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my advice is to live with your bike unchanged as long as you can, saving the money you would be spending on components and then buy a new/second hand better quality bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T06:33:20.027" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2011-06-03T09:19:22.380" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure there is somewhere safe to put your bike at the other end.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Just started commuting to work by bike and I turned up at the front door of my office  absolutely exhausted on Tuesday expecting to just be able to take my bike up to my office in the lift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Janitor/Doorman said no way, citing health and safety. He did point me to a place on a disused stairwell where they allow someone else who works in the building to store their bike, but he said that they were bending the rules as technically it was a fire exit, it's just that no one was using that half of the building so it wasn't an issue at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T09:19:22.380" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-03T09:19:22.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2011-06-03T09:26:31.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a Route Planning Website&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cycle Streets&lt;/a&gt; in the UK, it provides you with a fastest, balanced and quietest route from A to B. I assume there are similar sites for the US as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also various applications you can download for your smartphone that will give you a route from where ever you are to where ever you need to go, useful if you take a wrong turn or need to go somewhere new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T09:26:31.317" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-03T09:26:31.317" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4062" CreationDate="2011-06-03T09:41:44.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you youngsters don't like mudguards - I spent a decade before I learned how wonderful they are. Full length, with the flap at the bottom is what is needed, to keep your feet dry too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ride through the puddles and that has a speed advantage. Put them on and you won't want to take them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T09:41:44.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4062" CreationDate="2011-06-03T11:15:20.593" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of SKS Race Blades (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/sks-race-blade-clip-on-mudguard-set&quot;&gt;e.g. from Wiggle&lt;/a&gt;). They clip on and off really easily, for washing, security or just for the long days of summer when rain is decidedly unlikely. They are reasonably small and should fit all but the tightest of clearances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all the reasons you mention, I use them - cleanliness of my legs, back, bag and chain - but also because I like to at least play at being a good citizen. On my commute there are lots of other cyclists. Would you prefer to ride in the wet behind someone with or without guards? So the fact I'm being nice to my fellow cyclists is a really cool side benefit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you think mudguards are sacrilege then, to be honest, you're probably not going to be reading this; style-over-substance hipsters are only dimly aware of the real reasons for cycling, only doing it because they think it's cool. And while it is cool, only not for the reasons they think ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T11:15:20.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4070" CreationDate="2011-06-03T12:39:27.340" Score="4" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course, they look pretty. But what I do not understand is: How will having taller rims or  composite wheels improve a ride? Is the increase in efficiency drastic enough to make you think twice while changing rims? Or is it really not that necessary with the cash it demands, for a tiny bit of improvement? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;PS: I tried to find out about this on the internet, but I have found bulky articles about them, so frankly I didn't read them and decided to ask here. &lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-05T23:59:02.827" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T23:59:02.827" Title="Aero Wheels, Velocity Wheels. Does it really matter?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4069" CreationDate="2011-06-03T12:52:46.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given graphs like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rolling_resistance&quot;&gt;the first one on this page&lt;/a&gt;, which show how steeply wind resistance increases with speed, I take it that small changes in shape can be relatively important/effective at high speeds (and not at relatively low speeds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. my top speed when commuting is about 30 kph; the tour de France speeds on the flat are more like 50 kph. The power required to overcome wind resistance at 50 kph is &lt;strong&gt;more than triple&lt;/strong&gt; that required at 30 kph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also relatively important/effective if and only if you've already improved/maximised everything else (e.g. the rider's position and clothing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T12:52:46.293" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4062" CreationDate="2011-06-03T13:09:26.170" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply, mudguards are useful keeping the mud (or similar) off the bike, and the biker. So &lt;strong&gt;keep them if you don't like muds and dirt attached to you and your bike.&lt;/strong&gt; @Mathew, said youngster don't like mudguards. And he is right, I don't like them at all. They are unnecessary obstruction. I am not concerned about the style though. For me they are the &lt;strong&gt;most fragile&lt;/strong&gt; part in my bike. They just break way too easy. So for the concern about cleanliness, I clean my bike regularly, so I don't need an extra peripheral to keep my bike clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, whenever I get chance, I try jumping with my bike, pull of some tricks too and by chance if I fall off, I might break the mudguard in pieces. There goes your 20 bucks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to mention on rough terrains, when you drop your bike from a place , the fork suspension come up and hits the frame and breaks the mudguards, also the rear mud guards hits the tire so hard due to the momentum and breaks again. I have gone through this cycle for many times, now I wear a thin wind &amp;amp; water proof jacket on me, ride the bike without mudguards and just give a small wash to my bike after I am done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to see some tough rubber mud guards... I would the first one to install them on my bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-03T16:01:18.287" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T16:01:18.287" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4062" CreationDate="2011-06-03T13:23:15.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the years, I tried many types of fenders, mud guards, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know if it is me, or the tires I would buy, but almost without fail I still got wet at the front, at my feet, at the back.   I had the reasonably cheap plastic 2-3 inch wide ones on MTB's, I had the aluminum set for a road bike, and I tried one of those seat mounted ones that are a bit high.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always get wet regardless.  So I wore water proof clothes instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree they help, but never completely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely my colleague who also biked in year round, would ride in some days where I was soaked, and not even have a stripe on his back, without fenders.  I never could figure out how he did it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my racing bike, I would not bother.  On my commuting bike, absolutely recommend them.  But they are not perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T13:23:15.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4069" CreationDate="2011-06-03T15:02:19.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The benefits of an &quot;aero&quot; bike over a standard bike are minimal and likely of little use save in racing.   Over a time-trial of perhaps 30k, Someone with an entire aero package (bike, skinsuit, booties, helmet...) might gain only a few seconds compared to riding his usual bike and gear.&#xA;But that can be the margin of victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T15:02:19.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4069" CreationDate="2011-06-03T15:13:17.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the skinny from my perspective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two factors: weight &amp;amp; aerodynamics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon wheels are super lightweight which requires less power to spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taller(Deep Profile) rims are more aerodynamic, so once moving they reduce wind resistance. Obviously, the taller the rim, the more material, therefore they are also heavier. Many folks talk about spin up, which means how quickly one is able to get the bike up to speed, when discussing Taller/Deep Profile wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal wheel is a balance between these two factors, but then again, it really boils down to your goal? Are you racing? If so, what is type of racing? Are you able to afford/maintain multiple sets of wheels?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a great question because it deals with the one area that many inexperienced riders underestimate. Wheels IMO, after the frameset, is the most important component of speed, weight and ride quality! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please keep in mind this is only scratching the surface, but nonetheless I hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T15:13:17.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2011-06-03T15:45:20.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Andrew, without knowing how much time you have to train before the trek, I cannot provide an answer to that portion of the question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time between trek and ride is 4 days...much of this has to be based on how stiff, sore or banged up you feel, but this is an idea of what I would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 1 - Lots of rest, hot bath, and massage. Ride bike on lightest gear for 20-45 minutes. &#xA;Lightly stretch - focus on core and lower body. Eat only natural, organic, healthy foods &#xA;and lots of liquids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 2 - Same as above but increase spin time to 30-60 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 3 - Same as above, but do an hour on the bike and if your body can handle it, stand out of the saddle and use the gears to add resistance, nothing crazy, but you want to push some blood into your muscles...if you are still way too sore - just spin lightly as described above, but increase spin time to 60-75 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 4 - If you were not able to add resistance on Day 3 do so now. If you were able to do resistance on Day 3, then spin 60-90 minutes extremely light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is an active yet gentle recovery works best. Your legs are going to want to stiffen up, so the main goal is to keep them warm and loose! If no one will give you a massage, I suggest buying a massager. This is the one I use and it is awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thumpermassager.com/thumpersport.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thumpermassager.com/thumpersport.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T15:45:20.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4063" CreationDate="2011-06-03T18:42:34.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before undertaking such a program, the thing to consider is this... Is the frame worth it?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sometimes, manufacturers will produce a line of bikes that use an identical frame, and bolt on progressively-better components for each upgraded model.&#xA;In such cases, with a good frame to begin with, replacing cheaper components as they wear or fail might be a decent way to go, especially if you do your own work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the frame is just a generic item of no special quality.... You'd do better to save your money and buy an upgraded bike to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T18:42:34.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-06-04T14:53:11.117" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my bicycling history book, Bike Cult by David Perry, the author indicates that historically such schemes tend to fizzle out in a few years as the badly-maintained bikes remain unridden and the better ones get stolen or abandoned outside the area of the program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tried one briefly here at the university where I work, the &quot;green bike&quot; program.  It lasted a couple of months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it can be made to work I applaud; difficulties remain maintainance and repair, adjustment to individual riders, workable pickup and drop-off points...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T14:53:11.117" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-04T14:53:11.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-06-04T19:08:13.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Hangzhou, China&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest bicycle sharing system in the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbIJt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://dirt.asla.org/2009/07/31/hangzhou-to-expand-bike-sharing-program-to-50000-bikes/&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hangzhou has 50,000 bikes at 2,050 stations around the city. People make an average of 240,000 trips a day on the bikes, which are completely integrated into the rest of the public transit system. By 2020, the plan is to have 175,000 bikes available for use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grist.org/biking/2011-06-03-the-biggest-baddest-bikeshare-system-in-the-world-hangzhou-vhina&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bike sharing stations can be found in&#xA;  Hangzhou every 100 meters compared to&#xA;  the 300 meters in Paris. The first&#xA;  hour is free to users in Hangzhou,&#xA;  followed by 1 yuan ($0.15) for the&#xA;  first hour, 2 yuan the second hour,&#xA;  and 3 yuan each additional hour.&#xA;  During their first year operation, no&#xA;  bikes were stolen and very few were&#xA;  damaged or vandalized compared to the&#xA;  half that were stolen or damaged in&#xA;  Paris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_sharing_system#cite_note-59&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T14:57:04.320" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T14:57:04.320" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-04T19:08:13.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4082" CreationDate="2011-06-04T19:30:51.073" Score="7" ViewCount="1482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a claudebutler CapeWrath D24 (around 3 years old). My front (not sure about rear at this point) wheel bearings need replacing.  The wheel it has is a Rigida Zac2000.  I realize that some bikes now have hubs that have a case for the bearings that click on and the like, but mine seems to be more old fashioned / simpler.  Take the cone off and the bearings are greased underneath it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I get a standard type of bearing or are there particular ones I have to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular type of grease needed?  I have some White / creamy Teflon grease from wiggle, but not sure if this is the right sort of grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should there be bearings all the way around?  On one side of the wheel there is a gap big enough for another bearing, the other side has bearings all around.  Can you buy single bearings or do they come in packs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="1312" LastEditDate="2011-06-04T19:48:11.490" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T22:03:32.300" Title="When replacing wheel bearings, is there a standard or are they different for each type of bike" Tags="&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-04T19:44:21.600" Score="3" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced my cassette and my crank with one from the LBS that the guy said would work. I've had no problems with the cassette, but the crank is too wide so that my front derailleur does not reach the 3rd chainring. So here's my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specification on cranks that show the length each chainring is away from each other, and for that matter how far it sits from the frame as well? This way I can look at the one I used to have on and find one with similar measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T12:14:06.500" Title="How can you tell how far apart your chainrings are?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4142" CreationDate="2011-06-04T19:46:16.297" Score="4" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has come to the point where I need a torque wrench for installing things on my bicycle. What should I look for when purchasing one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="1260" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T13:20:30.937" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T08:36:25.333" Title="What should I look for in a torque wrench?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4079" CreationDate="2011-06-04T22:03:32.300" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, good on you for having a go at proper bike maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have an expensive American Classic or other 'pro' hub you will be needing 10 3/16 inch balls on either side of that front hub of yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically these are available from your Local Bike Shop in a pack that will have a few spares for the ones that run away whilst you put them in. The cost of replacement ball bearings is low and, unless you are fiscally challenged, you should always put a new set in when you pack your hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grease that you have is fine, just do not over pack it as this will attract dirt. Cleanliness is crucial, pop off the press-fit washers on the hub body and give everything a thorough clean - GT85 comes in use as does WD40 or even petrol for this application - you want a solvent that will dry off completely and not water down your grease. When you put the press-fit washers back in you will need to use a soft-end hammer or wooden mallet to gently tap them in properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cup and cone flat spanners are needed to put the hub back together again and get pre-load correct. These are affordable tools and not to be used as regular spanners. Normally these are sold with 14/15/16/17mm ends to suit front and rear hubs on most bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spindle bearings vary by hub brand so even if the ball count is the same the cone outer diameters can differ. Check the cones and cups are not too pitted - black rough spots - and decide for yourself whether you will be able to live with whatever damage is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be a gap - as you describe, the gap should be less than a ball's width. Depending on your hub you may need more or less than the expected 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preload is important on the hub. Once upon a time, before this was understood, hubs would be setup so the unloaded wheel would spin 'forever' and stop with the valve at the bottom. However, when you place weight on the wheel there needs to be a bit of extra tightness on the hub to accommodate for that. For me it is a matter of feel although I am sure there are more scientific ways of getting this right. I tighten up the hub so there is no 'play' in it when it is in the fork/frame. Then I give the lock-nuts a proper tighten, in the process introducing extra tightness that makes the spindle feel slightly rough when turning it in your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go on your first ride there might be some grease popping out - wipe this off as soon as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should you go for adjusting/cleaning the back hub you will need 1/4 inch balls, typically nine per side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final note, the hub is usually made by someone other than the rim (and spokes) with affordable-style bicycles. The label on the rim does not identify what the hub is except for with Campagnolo and other posh pre-built wheelsets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T22:03:32.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4080" CreationDate="2011-06-04T22:13:01.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom bracket axles come in a variety of widths as do bottom bracket shells. Typically these measurements are marked on the axle or cartridge and you need these measurements to get a replacement. Needless to say you need to take a fair amount of parts off the bike to get to read the axle/cartridge, however that is the best way to get the required numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the olden days when steel was king it normally came down to where the bike was from to get the bottom bracket width but a lot has changed since then and there are no convenient rules of thumb. That said, with a micrometer or even a ruler you can measure the bottom bracket shell width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these simpler times a given bottom bracket shell size would come in up to three axle lengths for 1/2/3 chainrings - the longer axle needed for the 3 chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can work out what you need for a given bike thanks to the internet - Shimano provide their specifications online as do the less common brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for chainring spacing that does not really of concern here - your LBS got it slightly wrong but you can forgive them because you have to 'get a few wrong' before replacement bottom bracket axle/shell lengths are understood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T22:13:01.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4063" CreationDate="2011-06-05T00:36:36.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to buy components, buy things that can be easily transferred to a new bike.  When you eventually upgrade. Eventually, you're going to want a really good frame. Now a frame usually comes with forks, and handlebars, so you'll probably want to hold off on replacing those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest thing you can probably replace is pedals. As they can be easily transferred to a new bike, and many high end bikes don't even come with pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, seats, wheels and tires can easily be transferred to other bikes. I have a hybrid I bought about 5 years back. I've added clipless pedals, slick tires, bullhorn handlebars, a new seat and a seatpost, and a rear pannier rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a commuter so my needs may be a bit different than yours but I think you get the picture. Switching to clipless pedals has made a world of difference.  Also, the tires add quite a bit of performance too.  You can get a lot out of a bike without actually changing anything in the frame/drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T00:23:08.163" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:23:08.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4099" CreationDate="2011-06-05T01:04:14.863" Score="1" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all know the scenario - you buy the girlfriend a bike, you spend a day servicing a friend's bike, you give an old bike to someone in the family or you spend time in the LBS helping a friend get a bike. Your motivation is out of genuine enthusiasm and in the hope that they will enjoy cycling, maybe to become a life-long cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As time goes by you realise that they have not really taken to the bike, it remains in the hallway/garage/shed and they still get around the old-fashioned way - walking, catching the bus or killing the planet with their noisy, cramped tin-box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you daren't say it, you might as well have not bothered. They are not going to go cycling any more than a leopard is going to change his spots. No amount of logic or reason will change matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;But...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...then there are some people you advise on a new bike choice that do get into cycling. Although they probably did not need you to help them get cycling, you still have played some part through 'setting an example'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other walks of life it is possible to have success at introducing a newbie to 'something better'. For instance, where you can find someone wanting help with their badly rootkitted computer you can take all day to pull out the viruses or spend half an hour with the Linux install disk. Invariably they don't have a copy of Winmare 7 or find any signs they have joined the Mapple Cult next time you see them - they have accepted a big change despite having to learn-new-stuff (which is hard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alcoholics Anonymous have '12 steps' structure and a dose of religion to wean people off drink. Ultimately A.A. face a similar problem to the lost-cause-of-cycling in that people are not going to change unless they want to, however structure works for some A.A. punters, in some cases, some of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly this is an open ended question with many answers. Personal anecdotes are welcomed, did a childhood gift of a bike, a bike-to-work scheme or the advice of a doctor work for you? Is there anything that we can learn from other walks of life?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Statistics and studies could also provide answers. Whatever hints and tips you have to help people take up cycling as a way of life are welcomed. Answers with lateral thinking, tips from other walks of life are also welcomed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please mod up the better, more insightful answers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T01:41:39.690" Title="What tactics other than 'setting an example' successfully encourage friends/family/others to become cyclists?" Tags="&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2011-06-06T01:35:41.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="347" CreationDate="2011-06-05T03:45:52.147" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question is different if you are going on a long-distance tour rather than going-to-work-and-back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on tour and facing the prospect of a struggle to do 30 miles when you really wanted to get 100 miles in (e.g. to get to next camp-site) it can be a better idea to not bother, sit out the wind and have a go later that day/evening or the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also important to understand weather a little bit. The air in a valley will heat up on a sunny day and, as that air expands, it has to go somewhere. This can lead to a tough headwind instead of an easy down-hill ride when going into the valley. This process works in reverse, so, if planning a long distance ride and crossing valley systems it can be best to book a room in the town at the bottom of the valley rather than pitch a camp at the campsite near the top of the mountain pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weather generally is more active during the day than at night so the best times for avoiding wind in a known windy place are early mornings and night. Clearly this does not help if you are doing 9-5 but if you are doing other shift patterns then you might be able to choose your shifts so as to get a near-guaranteed tailwind in both directions, to work and to home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to ride into headwinds there are a few things you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Think of wind as water and imagine where the 'river of wind' is going to be slowest. in the middle of the road the wind will not be slowed down, by the edges it will be slower, albeit marginally. Hence, try to ride safe-yet-close to available fences and walls. in that way you will 'not be swept away by the current'.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The sea also has an effect on wind - if following a coastal route try to find a route further inland. The sea heats up differently to the land, this will have seasonal affects on prevailing wind direction. Also bear in mind that most winds are from the west due to the turning of the planet. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to be as aero as possible - keep your elbows in.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;it may not be full-aero-tuck, but, elbows in will make a difference to your overall drag. You can also hold your handlebars a bit more in-board than you would do otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Roll with the punches. If there is a gust of wind that is going to stop you in your tracks then you can ease up and put your pedal effort in when the gust has passed by.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you are not wearing a big balloon. A skirt or a coat can act like a giant parachute - not what you need. Much like how a parachute has a hole in the top to let the air out without undue turbulent effects, make sure your coat has an exit hole for the air driven in through the front.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be seated. When out of the saddle you present a bigger frontal area. Use your gears rather than getting out of the saddle to get your momentum up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sit low. Tiredness helps to 'fall over the bars' and have a flat back. Pretend you have been riding all day and adopt the flattened pose that you get then, with your legs spinning and your upper body relaxed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draft anything you can - other cyclists, motor vehicles such as buses pulling out can give small bits of aero benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is persistent on your route consider getting a 20&quot; wheel folding bike. This will have better aerodynamics than your MTB/hybrid, you can also fold it up and take the bus/train as far as you can towards your destination. Also consider a saddlebag rather than a rucksack/panniers as saddlebags are the most aero bag option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the headwinds are always against you and your job matters more than your home, consider moving to the other side of town so your commute is with the prevailing winds rather than against them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="6994" LastEditDate="2013-05-24T06:24:48.947" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T06:24:48.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4090" CreationDate="2011-06-05T09:12:15.800" Score="2" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having what I believe is called chainsuck for a while now.  Chain will get stuck between first and second ring and have to stop and pull like &quot;%&amp;amp;$* to get it out.  It is always the between the first and second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From reading a few posts it looks like the sensible approach is to (at minimum) replace the first and second rings as well as the chain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) should I replace all of the rings or is it OK to only do 1 and or 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) do I have to replace the rear cassette at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Is this pretty hard (just starting to learn how to do some mods, cleaning and maintenance my self).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;on further inspection, the middle ring has lost some teeth, got a nice bend in one bit and shark fin look to some of the teeth.  This was replaced by &quot;halfords&quot; a while ago, guessing they put some rubbish ring on there.  The first ring is a bit shark fin like, but the outer looks pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="1312" LastEditDate="2011-06-05T10:11:08.550" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T20:22:56.710" Title="mountain bike chainsuck, replacing parts while thinking of future upgrades" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4092" CreationDate="2011-06-05T10:06:55.437" Score="2" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike is a ClaudeButler CapeWrath D24, with Shamino Alivio gears front and back. I was thinking it would be good to upgrade these to something like Shamino XT, at least on the front to start with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is this something I can do? &#xA;2) Can it be done incrementally? &#xA;3) Do I have to get certain rings to go with XT? Can I have alivio on the back and XT on the front?&#xA;4) Looking at Wiggle and searching for Shimano XT there are a lot of items.  Do I need the whole XT range, i.e. shifters, cassette, chainrings, front and rear derailers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a bit issue with doing this in bits, or just front or rear, or leaving the front shifters as they are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have a 8ring cassette, can this be changed incrementally for a 9 or ten?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T15:59:19.553" Title="upgrading gears to Shimano XT" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4088" CreationDate="2011-06-05T10:16:02.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you are going to be replacing the middle ring. 'Bolt Circle Diameter' is the measure of chainring compatibility. You need another ring of the same BCD and you can check the specifications for that on the Shimano website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would go for another Alivio ring because they are made of steel rather than aluminium alloy, this will last a lot longer, cost a lot less and the weight difference will be marginal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shark-fin look to the teeth is deliberate, they are individually sculpted so as to make shifting that bit easier. The bent tooth is the problem - and the missing teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can order in confidence from Wiggle and return the item if it is not the one you want, albeit with some postage to pay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chainring bolts do need an allen key at the front and a proper tool at the back. See if your big-fat-screwdriver can be used instead of the proper tool - tightening chainring bolts is not an everyday task so you may be able to skimp on getting yet another tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T10:16:02.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4089" CreationDate="2011-06-05T15:59:19.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shifting on Alivio is not as good as it could be, I am suspicious that Shimano do this deliberately so that there is a reason to upgrade to the Deore components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can put an XT derailleur on there, that will give improved shifting response and work with your existing components. Try changing the cables first as this is more likely to improve the shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front derailleur can be similarly upgraded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get nine-speed on the back will cost lots of money because the cassette is highly engineered (and not just bits of stamped out steel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get your existing Alivio to work correctly by putting new cables in, fixing that front chain-ring and giving everything a good service you will be spending modest sums of money and getting good results. As for spending a small fortune on an XT groupset a piece at a time, I doubt you will be able to go that much quicker on it or the bike be that much lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you fix what you have and save the money that you would spend on XT then you will have a good deposit for your 'dream bike'. Couple this with a bike-to-work scheme and you might be able to actually afford it, with payments for the rest spread out over the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To take a car analogy, you could upgrade a VW Beetle to a Porsche 911 a piece at a time, starting with the transmission. However, this is a lot of work and the Beetle will never really be a Porsche. You would do better to replace with VW Beetle spares and save up for the Porsche instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aftermarket parts always cost more than they should - add up the RRP for all the parts on your bike and it will cost twice what you paid for it. Going for the deluxe parts makes no sense with your situation - although Wiggle/Shimano would like you to believe otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T15:59:19.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1322" CreationDate="2011-06-05T16:58:11.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a hiker on mixed use trails, I've been hit from behind once and sideswiped on another occasion. Both instances were &quot;Hit-and-runs&quot;. An amazing number of bikers overtake me completely silently. Marginally better ones say something like &quot;left&quot; as they are actually passing me. That's zero notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know from experience that If you're wearing a full frame backpack you can not hear any of the typical &quot;bike noise&quot; a bike makes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bell is mandatory in my state, though I suspect it's only selectively enforced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a biker, I ring the bell (one ding) about 3 seconds from behind to let them know I'm a bike and I'm overtaking them. One second before, I'll say &quot;on your left&quot;. And then if they look like they are trying to share the usage of the path at all with me (staying on the right-hand side, or not walking 5 abreast) I'll say &quot;thanks&quot; after I've passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Share the trail with pedestrians people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1606" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T16:58:11.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5326" CreationDate="2011-06-05T18:24:13.037" Score="1" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I'm exploring a new bike route or climbing a steep hill, I often need to get of the road and onto the pavement to avoid motorists, pushing my bike on the pavement until I feel it is appropriate to join the road again. I look left and right for passing cars, but I feel that I might be doing something wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a  signal I should use when I wish to join the road and is there anything else I must take into consideration regarding how and where I alight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-08T09:58:38.300" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T14:57:07.577" Title="How should I alight from the pavement?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2011-06-05T18:36:16.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any procedure other than exercising extra caution.  Use the same turn signals you'd use when changing lanes in the road, and be extra careful that there are no cars nearby.  They'll usually expect you to stay on the sidewalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T18:36:16.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2011-06-05T19:26:08.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you mean by &quot;should&quot;, you possibly &quot;shouldn't&quot; be riding on the pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After parking or walking on the pavement, I move back onto the road in a way that's similar to setting off from/in a parked car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand on the pavement/side-walk, side by side to my bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift the bike down onto the road, close to the curb, facing in the correct direction (i.e. with the traffic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look to make sure there's still nothing coming.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount the bike (standing on the side-walk, holding the brakes, swing one leg over and sit on the saddle, with the other leg still on the side-walk)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now I'm on the bike, and the bike is on the road: stationary, and at the curb, and now ready to move off when traffic permits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T19:26:08.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4088" CreationDate="2011-06-05T20:22:56.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a couple of notes: first of all, what you're thinking are missing teeth may well be intentional as well. Even on a brand-new chain-ring, some of the teeth are shortened (some of them a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt;) to give the chain a spot to shift on to the next ring easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being the case, the real problem may be just the bent tooth. It's at least worth trying just straightening the tooth that's bent as well as you can, and see if that doesn't fix the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T20:22:56.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4086" CreationDate="2011-06-05T22:10:03.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find mentoring is effective. Ride to work with them every day for a few weeks, and ideally ride home too. If there's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebus.org.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike bus&lt;/a&gt; available, join that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works in several ways. First, they've got someone to show them how it's done - which route to use, how to handle the tricky spots and so on. Just having someone else there is a huge confidence boost for many people. Second, theres the sense of obligation that comes from having a friend on your doorstep. It's much harder to say &quot;no, I'm taking the bus&quot; to someone face to face than to an unloved bicycle in the back shed. And finally, you're there to directly answer the inevitable questions and problems. If they get a flat tyre, you can either show them how to fix it or provide pointers if they get stuck, or fix it for them. This also means that instead of a pile of &quot;what if&quot;s that gets bigger and scarier the longer they don't ride, they have the universal &quot;Moz will fix it&quot; solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T22:10:03.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4086" CreationDate="2011-06-05T22:17:10.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Convert them one at a time, starting with the attractive ones. Only date potential cyclists, and slowly convert them while you date them. This tends to produce a solid conversion, because you have the opportunity to reinforce the positives and address the negatives over an extended period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing this for a while now but it's a slow process, usually taking more than five years. The benefit is that I have a partner who cycles, but it isn't very good at producing a great mass of cyclists unless you import thousands of Dutch singles. In my case people have asked whether I only date cycling activists. The answer is no, the people I date &lt;em&gt;become&lt;/em&gt; cycling activists (well, two out of two in the last 10 years have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T01:41:39.690" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T01:41:39.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4069" CreationDate="2011-06-05T22:25:30.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a reasonable summary of bicycle aerodynamic improvements on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/aero/aerodynamics.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon's page&lt;/a&gt;. It's only 1000 words or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly, wheels don't make a huge difference on their own. A few percent at most. If you want a dramatic change you have to make a dramatic change - my velomobile goes at least 30% faster for the same power input than any of my other bikes but it looks nothing like them and is unlikely ever to be approved by the UCI. With &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/includes/asp/getTarget.asp?type=FILE&amp;amp;id=NTI0MDY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;handicap bikes&lt;/a&gt;(pdf) it's all about incremental improvements adding up to a significant overall change, with political lobbying and bribery to get the rules changed to allow further improvements. Which is why you don't see those wheels on the Tour - they're not allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of disk/low spoke count wheels in this context is that they're easy to use. You just leave them on your bike and they work. A skinsuit is annoying to put on, restrictive to wear and expensive to replace. For about the same aerodynamic benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T22:25:30.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1322" CreationDate="2011-06-06T01:42:26.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first started cycling more than casually I bought a bell to warn pedestrians.  I found that the bell was ignored about ten times out of ten.  I now almost always shout &quot;On your left&quot; (or right, where appropriate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated, the trick is to announce your presence early enough, as pedestrians will usually jump a bit and wobble back and forth before they process what you said.  (This is especially true if you're right behind them when you shout out.)  I find that if you announce yourself early enough you have little trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if you regularly bike the same route then the other regular users of that route become used to your announcements and know how to respond to them.  So it's worthwhile to always announce yourself, even when the way seems reasonably clear, as a sort of teaching exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regularly get irritated at other cyclists who pass me without notice.  On a bike it's damn hard to hear another bike approaching, and on the trails where I often bike the birds are chirping too loudly to hear a bike bell.  Maybe one in 50 cyclists, when passing me (I'm kinda slow), give an audible warning (and a lot of those that do just yell &quot;Left!&quot; in your left ear -- thanks a lot!).  So give cyclists the same audible warning you'd give peds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T01:42:26.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3860" CreationDate="2011-06-06T01:53:02.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you can see cracks in the sidewall it's time to change a high pressure (over 75 psi or so) tire.  Lower pressure tires are OK with a few cracks and likely develops cracks sooner anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also change a tire when the tread is worn down such that, with the tire partially deflated, you can feel a soft spot in the center of the tread.  When the tire turns into a &quot;slick&quot; it's time to get rid of it.  (Rear tires generally wear several times faster than front tires.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunlight and ozone are hard on the rubber in a tire, so if a bike is stored outside (even if under a shelter) the tires will need replacement sooner.  And tires with gum rubber sidewalls will develop cracks sooner than those entirely of black rubber.  Stored indoors (or in a garage or outbuilding) black rubber tires can last 5-10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course the sure-fire way to wreck a tire is to run it underinflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T01:53:02.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4058" CreationDate="2011-06-06T01:58:10.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect, along with everything else, that SS cables produce less friction than galvanized.  And for the price difference it's pretty silly to use anything but SS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T01:58:10.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4111" CreationDate="2011-06-06T03:48:49.733" Score="4" ViewCount="3371" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are quite a lot of types of bars. Some best bit for aerodynamics, some best fit for control, some offer significant amount of positions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to change my handlebars to the best fit type for both off-road rides which should offer a lot of control of bike and for road use, provide variety of positions, to gain aerodynamic form. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was using a curved handle bars (also referred too as raised bars) before, it provide a lot of control over turn, but except that it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And does the width of the bar affect riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-07T03:31:47.490" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T03:31:47.490" Title="Which type of handle bars are best for off-road &amp; road use? " Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4107" CreationDate="2011-06-06T03:53:46.470" Score="6" ViewCount="5034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sebikes.com/lager.php&quot;&gt;SE Lager&lt;/a&gt;. It's a pretty cheap and crappy bike. I've had to replace pretty much everything on it due to wear/breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only area I haven't tackled is the bottom bracket. I can confidently remove/replace/tune all other parts of the bike, but I'm not sure what is involved in the bottom bracket. I'm pretty keen to just pull it apart and check it out, even if it doesn't need replacing right now, so that I'm confident I can do it when it does need replacing. Plus I'm curious and think it'd be fun :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the spec, the bottom bracket is &quot;Euro cartidge sealed bearing w/Alloy Cups&quot;. This doesn't seem very informative to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I need any special tools to remove and replace the bearings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What should I look for when I do get it apart?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would I go about getting replacement bearings? Do I need to take the whole bike to the LBS or can I tell what I'd need (size/specifications) without needing the bike there?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T22:12:02.263" Title="How hard is it to disassemble and reassemble a bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4108" CreationDate="2011-06-06T03:59:43.240" Score="4" ViewCount="1564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sebikes.com/lager.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SE Lager&lt;/a&gt;. In the past year, the following components have worn out or broken&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front chainring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear cog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear freewheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat (one of the bars snapped off)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many, many spokes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it seems to be a very cheap bike made to a minimum standard. I like the feel of the bike and with my replacements for the above components I'm pretty happy with the way it rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that scares me is that the forks, stem or bars will break and pitch me face first into the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell if these components are also weak or try to detect early signs of failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Added wheels as replaced parts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T22:25:09.323" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T22:25:09.323" Title="What are early signs of failure in forks/stem/handlebars?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4105" CreationDate="2011-06-06T04:23:38.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any time you see &quot;cartridge&quot; or &quot;sealed&quot; to describe a bottom bracket that means it's not serviceable - you throw it away and buy a new one. Or in some (expensive) cases, replace individual bearing races. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_tools&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia Bicycle Tools page&lt;/a&gt; has more information. I'm using amazon below to give you an idea of prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You will need the appropriate tool to &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001LDFGNQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;remove the cranks&lt;/a&gt;, and another to &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0028NA890&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;unscrew the cups&lt;/a&gt; that hold the BB in place. Both are readily available but cost about the same as getting new BB fitted. If you want to accumulate tools you could use this opportunity to buy them but it's something that many people decide to get done in a bike shop because it's rare and much easier with a proper work stand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The problems with a worn BB will be obvious without dismantling anything. If you pull a sealed BB apart it's unlikely you'll be able to reassemble it. The key is how much slop there is in it. If there's too much, it needs replacing. Too much is a judgement call.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The measurement that matters is the spindle length. This is easy to measure once you have it out of the bike but hard to do before then because the cranks cover the bit you're measuring. If you're lucky it will be written somewhere that you can see without pulling it out, but usually the label is somewhere that is inside the BB shell when it's on the bike. Note that they come in 2.5mm increments, so you only need to measure to +/- 1mm. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy way is to take it to a bike shop. It's not instant even with the right tools, but you need to apply considerable force to get the cranks and BB off the bike, making it an ugly operation at home. It can be done, but it's not fun. They will pop the old BB out, read or measure the spindle length then try to upsell you from the bottom of the range Shimano BB to however much you're willing to pay. Realistically it's something you'll probably not detect, but the UN54 ones are IMO a good balance between really cheap and just good enough to justify the extra cost (they cost about $US20). You can spend $US200+ on a Phil Wood if you like (they are much shinier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, most bikes come with British BB's, and yours is one of them. Other options are French, Italian and ... &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;read more here&lt;/a&gt; (that describes the thread and diameter of the cups).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: one final note. Bottom brackets commonly use both left hand and right hand threads. Again, pedalling the tool forward tightens the part, pedalling backward loosens it. At least with British and Italian BBs, with French they're both right hand threads. French BB's exist to teach us why left hand threads are used on BBs that work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T22:12:02.263" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T22:12:02.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4106" CreationDate="2011-06-06T04:41:29.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are well past the point where I would have told you to throw the bike away and buy a decent one. But IME the frame and fork are usually better built than the components on a bottom-of-the-range bike. There's no real corners to cut on a frame and fork, where they can shave component quality endlessly. Well, they can switch to mild steel tubing but that's rare above the $199 price point. You may well find that the only difference between your bike frame and one on a bike twice the price is the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no non-destructive way to tell whether the frame and fork will fail that doesn't cost (a lot) more than the bike is worth. Especially since in this case the bike is worth less than the sum of its parts(1). You could try pulling on the frame/fork to see how flexible it is, but that tells you nothing about how likely it is to fail suddenly (unless it fails while you're testing it). Or you could xray it and have a competant metallurgist examine the images for defects (a single rock climbing carabiner can be thus inspected for perhaps $US200, but a bike is a lot more complex).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like the feel of the bike try looking for something similar, probably from the same manufacturer. But looking at their site, you have the mid-range model. I suggest test riding better bikes until you find one you like the feel of. Or do what you have done - replace everything on the bike with better components and hope for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) you have replaced most of the components with ones bought retail. So you've paid more markup (and probably labour charges too) than if you had bought a bike with those components already on it. You're probably also suffering from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunk_costs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sunk cost fallacy&lt;/a&gt; - you've spent all this money and are reluctant to throw it away. I can't make that call for you, but look at what's left of the original bike and work out how much it will cost to replace it all - especially the wheels. It might be cheaper to buy a better bike and strip the current one for spares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T04:41:29.637" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4106" CreationDate="2011-06-06T07:13:33.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, nothing you've replaced so far is out of the ordinary for a well-used bike, other than perhaps the seat.  I've worn out two front rings, two clusters, easily six chains (which I now replace every thousand miles, just on general principle), and at least a dozen spokes (not counting those I've replaced when I relaced &quot;tired&quot; wheels).  Replaced entire wheel sets a couple of times.  Also, two bottom brackets, three sets of pedals, and a couple of wheel bearings.  Never replaced a freewheel, but they do fail on &quot;good&quot; bikes.  This would be in maybe 10,000 miles of riding on three bikes.  Someone heavier and/or more muscular (I had polio as a child) would likely wear things out about twice as fast as I do, and off-roading in a bike not designed for it will obviously take an early toll on the bike (as will riding a bike clearly meant for a smaller, lighter person).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of forks failing (rarely), and, unfortunately, there's no reliable way to know if one is about to fail.  Some forks are very well built, others not so well, some are built such that cracks will be obvious, others have designs that will conceal cracks.  But looking at the picture of your bike it looks like a reasonably good fork design that would not conceal cracks and not be prone to premature failure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of a catastrophic handlebar or stem failure, and I would judge them quite unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there does come a time when it's best to retire an old bike and get a new (and hopefully better) one.  I wouldn't discourage you from doing this, but it doesn't seem imperative in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T07:13:33.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4104" CreationDate="2011-06-06T09:48:17.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best handlebars for on/off-road MTB use are made of unobtainium:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4UKUI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scott AT4&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They offer four hand positions including an acceptable aero tuck. The double bar also acts as a hand-shield. The loop at the front is useful for carrying shopping small distances. The total width is narrow enough to squeeze through gaps in traffic, hands protected so long as not using the bar-end position. You get 2x 'dashboard' for mounting lights etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Scott AT4 was made by the earlier incarnation of 'Scott' and they have no  interest in making them now. The alloy is some last-forever furniture alloy so keep your eyes peeled on ebay for some. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T09:48:17.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4104" CreationDate="2011-06-06T11:58:53.597" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two types of riding are quite different in terms of technique, and the bars developed for both over many years are quite different.&#xA;Standard road bars, the so-called &quot;drop&quot; bars, have evolved over a century and offer a variety of hand positions for efficient operation under all conditions encountered on the road.&#xA;Folks who &quot;don't like to ride bent over&quot; are doing it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain-bike or off-road bars vary largely by width; riders who spend a lot of time on tight, woodsy singletrack may prefer a narrower bar, those who ride wide-open trails with a lot of sand and such may like a wider bar.  Other than that.. It's a matter of fit and comfort.   A slight &quot;rise&quot; may be more comfortable, and a slight &quot;pull-back&quot; may ease strain on wrists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T11:58:53.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4115" CreationDate="2011-06-06T23:19:31.397" Score="1" ViewCount="1596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke the lever of my shifter (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/x7-9-speed-trigger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SRAM X7&lt;/a&gt;) when I fell off my bike on a trail. I think it just fell off the unit. I can see where the lever is connected to the mechanism that pulls the cable. Can I replace just the lever, and not have to buy the entire shifter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1251" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-06-06T23:35:55.670" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T14:22:45.520" Title="Replace a Sram x7 trigger lever?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4114" CreationDate="2011-06-06T23:49:16.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's extremely unlikely that you will be able to buy parts for a cheap shifter. The whole unit costs $US25 with free shipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine you could buy just the lever wholesale for $3. Then you'd pay the wholesaler $3 to find it and pack it for you, then the $3 postage cost. So your &quot;$3&quot; part is going to cost you $9. Plus you're probably going to want the mounting parts for that lever, but they're unlikely to be available separately (the economics get even worse for 2c screws), so there will be a kit of parts including the lever, ratchet mechanism and whatever attaches it to the body. But that kit costs $10 plus the $6 S&amp;amp;H. So you have saved $9 over buying a whole new lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the shop cuts the old cable off the bike, installs the new parts, new gear cable and outer, and set everything up. Which is about $20-$40 of labour, plus $10 for the cable and outer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total cost is about $16 + $10 + $20 = $46-$66. Or $55 for a whole new lever, fitted. New whole lever is an easy job, taking apart the old one is tricky so will probably take longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a bike shop's point of view that's a $9 saving in exchange for the risk that you're wrong about how much damage was done. If the pivot that that lever sits on has bent the repaired lever won't work properly. There's a whole range of problems like this, but you as the customer won't care, you will just come in and say &quot;you fixed it, but it doesn't work&quot;. After the first time this happened they stopped doing it, and only fit whole new parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So bike shops will not order the &quot;parts kit&quot;, only a few keen cyclists who do their own repairs will. Instead of selling hundreds of these kits, SRAM will only sell ten. And maybe another ten next year. Or not, since the overhead cost of each product is non-trivial and if something is only going to sell a hundred units at $10 they're not going to bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is what you see happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T23:49:16.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4104" CreationDate="2011-06-06T23:59:21.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to as @Mathew pointed out, you can get some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.statebicycle.com/product_p/bullhornslv.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bullhorn handlebars&lt;/a&gt;.  I got some similar to ones in the link above, but their curve inward at the end, to look more like the ones in @Mathew's post with the middle front section cut out.  Putting your hands in the front section allows you to be in almost a complete tuck position, while the bars are wide enough to give you plenty of balance on the trials.  I use bars like this exclusively on the road, as I find that they provide many different hand positions, allowing me to lessen fatigue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T23:59:21.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-07T08:05:33.000" Score="2" ViewCount="17716" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has a grip shift (Shimano revoshift) which isn't shifting through all 8 gears.  Even with the gear cable removed (it recently broke) it will only shift through half of the gear numbers and some blanks.  It is almost as if the number dial has slipped around the shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It still sort of works ok but I can't use all of the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just a broken shifter that needs replacing or is it something that can be fixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KR,&#xA;Pappaun&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1611" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T17:28:03.507" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T17:28:03.507" Title="Shimano Revoshift repair" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4125" CreationDate="2011-06-07T11:23:55.773" Score="16" ViewCount="10939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was rather surprised to find a question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/3450/628&quot;&gt;choosing a torque wrench&lt;/a&gt; on this site. I haven't cycled for years, but many years ago when I actually cycled I would do with a set of ordinary wrenches just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What bicycle maintenance tasks would require a torque wrench and can't be done with an ordinary wrench?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T13:34:13.343" Title="Why would I need a torque wrench for a bicycle?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2011-06-07T11:39:55.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I admit I never use one... Still, for certain applications, specific tightening torque is specified.  Things like crank-retaining nuts, quill-stem retaining bolts... Crank bolts on models with removable chainrings... That sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people have a good feel for &quot;tight enough&quot;, but others may be ham-fisted enough to break or strip fasteners without some reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T11:39:55.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2011-06-07T12:06:49.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am with yourself - no need (unless you have a very expensive pro roadbike). However there are new 'carbon fibre' components that have changed since the good-old-days. These can have things such as 'helicoil' inserts glued in to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the olden days it was just chainring bolts that were tricky to get right without a torque wrench. Nowadays you can do up almost every bolt to a torque level specified in the component's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T12:06:49.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4118" CreationDate="2011-06-07T12:11:10.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how much you value your time. Taking one of these to pieces and putting it back together again is do-able but may not give you the fix needed, whereas, buy the new part and it might save you time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give it a go, type in 'revoshift' into &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp&lt;/a&gt; and pull up your manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And personally, if I were you, I would give it a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T12:11:10.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3941" CreationDate="2011-06-07T12:53:17.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you know some references to pure protein theory (or evidence for the opposite)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://skeptics.stackexchange.com/questions/3794/is-the-glycogen-restoration-window-real/4302#4302&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is one answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In summary, muscle glycogen&#xA;  concentrations for the three trials&#xA;  were similar immediately postexercise&#xA;  and again 4 h after the cessation of&#xA;  exercise. In addition, the serum&#xA;  insulin and glucose responses among&#xA;  the three eucaloric feedings displayed&#xA;  no differences at any time throughout&#xA;  the 4-h restoration period.&#xA;  Therefore, it appears that the&#xA;  addition of protein or amino acids to&#xA;  an eucaloric postexercise CHO feeding&#xA;  does not enhance the restoration of&#xA;  muscle glycogen compared with a&#xA;  CHO-only feeding. Thus, provided the&#xA;  caloric content is similar and&#xA;  adequate amounts of CHO are consumed&#xA;  (&gt;0.70 g ⋅ kg body wt− 1 ⋅ h− 1) after&#xA;  exhaustive exercise, the addition of&#xA;  protein or amino acids to a CHO&#xA;  feeding does not appear to enhance&#xA;  muscle glycogen restoration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That study's summary talks about the measure of glycogen restoration after cycling (perhaps as if glycogen restoration is what's important). The study also measured insulin levels, and measured performance (VO2 and watts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However that study measures same-day effects, not long-term effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:37.130" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T12:53:17.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2011-06-07T13:01:15.870" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a torque wrench after writing off a the bottom part of a set of Fox 36's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZNFC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fox 36 RC2 2005&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those four little bolts at the bottom hold the axle in place, and need to be tightened enough to stop it coming out, but not so much that you stress the clamp. I'd over-tightened them and apparently the fork legs had tiny cracks. The replacement legs have a metal shim to prevent over-tightening, and the design is now different - lesson learnt for me and for Fox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that no-one buys a torque wrench when they're starting out and could really benefit from one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1534" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T13:01:15.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4114" CreationDate="2011-06-07T14:22:45.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Moz has provided a very good answer to this, however, do hunt around on eBay for what-you-may-find, you also might have one of those bike shops nearby that keep broken-but-useful parts (where they may have what you want) and also be aware that these levers come in a set, you only want one (a replacement) not the set of two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consult your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T14:22:45.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2011-06-07T18:46:23.537" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crank bolts. They need to be really torqued, but you're always wary of over-torquing, so a torque wrench provides a good confidence factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T18:46:23.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-07T20:18:58.737" Score="1" ViewCount="3107" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardmanbikes.com/mtb/ht_team.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boardman Team HT&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last weekend I broke the rear brake lever in a crash. I'm looking for a replacement brake disc kit for the rear brake, but I don't know what kind of mounting I've got. There seem to be two types, post-mount and IS (International Standard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop I bought my bike from didn't have a manual when I bought it, I can't find one on-line, and the boardman website doesn't seem to have it or any contact info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which system does it have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure it's post-mount on the front as I've found a manual for the front fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-07T23:32:53.180" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T00:14:12.617" Title="Are the rear brake mounts on my Boardman Team HT post-mount or IS?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2011-06-07T20:19:16.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a setup like that in downtown Indianapolis, and along at least one part of the Cultural Trail, there are signs making it &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?q=North+and+Alabama,+Indianapolis,+IN&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;hq=&amp;amp;hnear=N+Alabama+St+%26+E+North+St,+Indianapolis,+Marion,+Indiana+46204&amp;amp;gl=us&amp;amp;ll=39.7754,-86.152334&amp;amp;spn=0.001727,0.003428&amp;amp;z=19&amp;amp;layer=c&amp;amp;cbll=39.775483,-86.152331&amp;amp;panoid=j6t_FokOiGrlMLpumldJZg&amp;amp;cbp=12,117.48,,0,14.01&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very clear&lt;/a&gt;.  (And yes, that is part of the trail under construction below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LBeL6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;North and Alabama, Indianapolis, IN&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how much those signs cost, but they sure help to clear up confusion. In their absence, I'd behave as a pedestrian, and I'd definitely proceed with caution. Even though there are signs along that trail warning drivers to watch for cyclists, there's no guarantee they either read or acknowledge those signs, much less the accompanying signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1341" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T20:19:16.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3244" CreationDate="2011-06-07T21:36:56.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect it's the fork that's deforming and causing the &quot;twist&quot;.  When you brake with disk brakes, enormous force is placed on one side of the fork and essentially none on the other.  The fork is going to deform -- it's just a question of how much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caliper brakes, of course, distribute the force evenly, so you don't notice any deformation, even though there is some from the wheel pushing backwards on the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T21:36:56.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2011-06-07T22:49:33.980" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;A torque wrench is needed mostly for lightweight bike parts, especially at the high end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several related causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;with lightweight parts the manufacturer has shaved off everything that is not absolutely essential. There is no spare strength to allow for overtightening.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;things are made very precisely now. Rather than being able to take a 250kg gorilla, the lightweight bike can take a 120kg human. And rather than be maintained by a gorilla, you need an actual bike mechanic. This is partly to save weight, and partly to shave costs. Why use 1kg of titanium where 500g will do?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most people do things up until they feel the resistance change. This slight yeild in steel is non-destructive and can be repeated thousands if not millions of times. In aluminium you need to be more sensitive because the yeild limit is sharper, but with composites and lightweight metals like titanium and magnesium the change is so fast it might as well not exist. The torque limits are likely to be tight and precise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;to save weight more threads are cut into expensive parts. Rather than having a semi-captive nut the body of the bike/fork/wheel is threaded. Stripping it means replacing something expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that the traditional steel bolt in a steel bike will work well with (say) 15-50Nm of force used to tighten it. At 15Nm it's only just tight, at 50Nm it's probably digging into the frame and it's about to strip. But a (hollow!) titanium bolt in a carbon/epoxy stem will have a torque range of 5.5-6.4Nm, and the failure mode at the high end will be the stem failing- either it will strip the thread or the clamp will snap. And the bolt is built to match - why put in a bolt that will take 10Nm of tightening when the stem will fail at 7Nm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other design changes to match these - four bolt handlebar clams on stems are now commonplace where there used to be one bolt and you just bent the clamp open then forced the (curved) handlebars through it. You can't bend an aluminium clamp like that, it will fail. And splined cranks require a lot more precision than tapered one, but that precision also allows them to be lighter as well as easier to service. The days of stripped extraction threads in cranks are (hopefully) over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T22:49:33.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4128" CreationDate="2011-06-07T23:41:43.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stock brakes are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/news/avid-elixir-3-hydraulics-people&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avid Elixir 3&lt;/a&gt;. These are available in post and ISO mounts, but according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_brake#Advantages_and_disadvantages_of_various_types_of_mounts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; post mounts are mostly used on the front brakes, with ISO mounts on the rear. This suggests to me that the kit likely has one of each - a post mount brake for the front and an ISO brake for the rear. Photos of the non-drive side are hard to find, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&amp;amp;item=330541612643&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this ebay one&lt;/a&gt; seems to show an ISO mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T23:41:43.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4128" CreationDate="2011-06-08T00:14:12.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to look at the bike and take a look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ailL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;International standard vs post mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be pretty straightforward to identify how the brake caliper is bolted to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T00:14:12.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2011-06-08T05:29:59.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a pair of Shimano MT51 SPD shoes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17047&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17047&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and am really happy - they look like a pair of runners... not too formal, but not too 'Bike Shoe'.  They are out of production/stock now, however there are similar ones out there...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=46681&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=46681&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or even a pair that look like ordinary runners:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7610&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7610&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are not 'Formal', but do look like 'normal' shoes..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="115" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T05:29:59.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1322" CreationDate="2011-06-08T12:31:33.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine has an AirZound; a very loud air horn for bikes.  He pecks the trigger to emit a short chirp when about 100 feet behind pedestrians.  It's loud enough to get peds' attention, brief enough not to cause pain, and far enough away to give peds time to turn around or step aside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they don't respond to the chirp, a half-second blast makes them scurry out of the way pretty quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bells are fine at low speed but people might not hear them over traffic noise until you are quite close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1474" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T12:31:33.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4138" CreationDate="2011-06-08T13:03:33.523" Score="9" ViewCount="4401" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I upgraded the brakes on my bicycle recently, the shop asked if I wanted to also switch from my (chromed) steel rims to aluminum rims, saying the aluminum rims would provide better braking power.  I opted not to at the time to save money; with the brake upgrade (old-style sidepull caliper to dual-pivot), I have plenty of stopping power when dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rain, however, my brakes are almost worthless.  Do aluminum rims provide significantly better braking when wet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1616" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-06-08T22:52:29.130" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T06:40:11.447" Title="Do aluminum rims provide better braking than steel ones when wet?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4136" CreationDate="2011-06-08T14:10:09.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shop are correct. Steel or chrome plated steel rims will give poor braking power in wet conditions. Even under normal dry conditions braking power is considerably lower when compared to aluminium rims. You should expect a braking power improvement of up to 4 times by switching to aluminium rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_brake#Advantages_and_disadvantages&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rim brakes are cheap, light, mechanically simple, easy to maintain, and powerful. However, they perform poorly when the rims are wet. This problem is less serious with rims made of aluminium, than on those with steel or chromed rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T14:10:09.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4136" CreationDate="2011-06-08T15:11:36.073" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Since you have gone for steel rims and need to stop in the wet and are unlikely to upgrade to alloy rims straight away, I think you are deserved of a practical answer...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the wet, with regular brake blocks, the alloy rim will have a better coefficient of friction than the steel rim. This much is known and these brake blocks are the wrong ones for your steel rims. You need the brake blocks designed for the job, the ones with a leather face:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1FjfR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically these are nice and cheap, they also last a very long time. In the wet they work remarkably well on steel rims, although it can take a wheel revolution for the braking power to kick in. To work around this 'turbo lag for braking' you can put the brakes on extra early to clean the rims of water and get into a habit of having your brakes ready on tricky descents, junctions etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can run them just on the rear wheel first, in that way you can see how they work and use your existing rear pads on the front when the existing set run out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't let their hum-drum appearance put you off - if you have steel rims they are a performance product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the in depth on 'coefficient of friction' as it applies to bike wheels and different materials, here you go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=0JJo6DlF9iMC&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;pg=PA248#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=0JJo6DlF9iMC&amp;amp;lpg=PP1&amp;amp;pg=PA248#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T09:50:13.667" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T09:50:13.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4136" CreationDate="2011-06-08T17:37:42.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, aluminium rims help wet braking performance a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; compared to chrome plated steel rims. You still usually need roughly one rotation of the wheel for the brake block to wipe off most of the water film before you get really good braking, but there's still almost no comparison to steel rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind though: if you do a lot of riding in wet weather, the brakes can wear out aluminium rims fairly quickly. When the rims are wet, a lot of road grime tends to stick to them, and when the brakes clamp on that, it grinds down the surface of the rim relatively quickly. We're not talking about a ride or two (or anything like that) here, I've seen people who commute all the time wear out a set of rims in a couple of years or so (whereas I've rarely seen a fair-weather rider wear rims out at all -- they usually last until they either get bent in some kind of accident, or the rider gets the itch for something newer and/or lighter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T17:37:42.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4143" CreationDate="2011-06-08T23:05:49.560" Score="2" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once heard that road rims aren't strong enough to deal with the force of v-brakes, is this true? What about your standard cantilever brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T08:39:03.827" Title="Could road rims be damaged by using v-brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4145" CreationDate="2011-06-08T23:19:13.423" Score="1" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fixed gear bike, Rocky Mountain Boroughs Fixie (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikes.com/DATA/BIKE/853_large.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;picture&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt;).&#xA;The chain is very tight compared to any free wheel bike. So anytime the tire gets punctured (unfortunately very often) and I want to dismount the wheel, I have to remove the chain by using a chain tool.&#xA;The question is: does anyone know of some trick to replace the tube without doing all of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1621" LastEditorUserId="1621" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T01:35:28.927" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T02:25:19.240" Title="Dismounting wheel in a fixie" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4081" CreationDate="2011-06-08T23:27:43.183" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to make sure that it will serve the range of torques that you will realistically be using.  Most bicycle tasks will require quite a low torque (e.g. 8 Nm) but occasionally (crank bolts, pinch bolts) you'll need much higher torques (e.g. 50NM).&#xA;I have 2 torque wrenches, a 'sensitive' one which ranges from about 5NM to 20NM (in fine graduations) and a medium duty one that ranges from about 20NM to 100NM (in broader and less accurate graduations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's handy to have measurements in NM and lbFt, but I'm sure every torque wrench on the market will display both values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most torque wrenches accept square drive sockets but the really swish ones also have adapters that let you use open wrench heads. This is great for places, such as the pedal axle, where you couldn't use a socket (Beta do such ones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already own a lot of square drive sockets, then you may want to get a torque wrench that accepts the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip: ALWAYS unwind your wrench after using it. Storing it 'torqued up' will affect it's calibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T23:27:43.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4140" CreationDate="2011-06-08T23:32:25.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not true--the pad/rim contact force should be more or less independent of the brake design (assuming the pad/rim friction coefficients are about the same, as they will be if the pads are of similar material).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V-brakes tend to require more cable pull to actuate than other types, which does make them incompatible with road brake levers. No problem with the wheels, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T23:32:25.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4063" CreationDate="2011-06-08T23:36:45.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lighter wheels are THE best upgrade you can do. Saving 500g on the wheels will make a much greater difference (due to reduced rotational inertia) to the amount of energy you save whilst cycling, than the same amount off a non-rotating part of the bike. And, of course, the wheels are very easy to transfer to a new bike, should you ever wish to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a pair of second hand Campagnolo Eurus rims (with record hubs) for my bottom-of-the-range road bike. I couldn't believe what a difference they made.. I could accelerate at a much higher rate, climb hills easier and was expending less energy on the flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T23:36:45.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4141" CreationDate="2011-06-08T23:39:58.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends why the chain is tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3042#3042&quot;&gt;chain tug&lt;/a&gt; then loosening that is the obvious way. Yes, it's slightly annoying to do that then tighten it up afterwards, but it's easier than the alternative. I use QR axles so for me popping the QR means I can slide the tug off without changing the adjustment and it's all easy from there. But even with a solid axle and nut you should be able to loosen or remove the nut and slide the tug off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, just how tight is the chain? I've never been comfortable having the chain so tight that I can't just slip a tyre lever between the chain and chainring where a front derailleur would go and pedal the chain off that way. Often if the chain is too tight it's an attempt to compensate for bad chain line (ie, there's an offset between the cog and chainring) which is a problem in itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: to fix this the only way is to add a link to the chain (so you have more slack), and that probably means using a chain tug to hold the wheel in place. You might not need the tug but unless the cost is critical I would add one. It's about $20 for a cheap one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T02:25:19.240" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3912" CreationDate="2011-06-08T23:45:12.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crank Brothers Mallets are good for this. They offer plenty of grip (when not clipped in) and aren't too heavy for what they are (472g for mid-range Mallet 2). They are also much more reliable than the earlier Crank Brothers' pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NtKXM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mallet 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T23:45:12.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4140" CreationDate="2011-06-09T00:12:05.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, the amount of force required on the rim is a function of the pad composition and size -- has very little to do with the design of the caliper.  The difference in brakes is at the other end -- some require more cable movement than others, and that affects the design of the brake levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T00:12:05.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4149" CreationDate="2011-06-09T01:45:00.060" Score="6" ViewCount="1727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to troubleshoot a weird barely-felt click on my cruiser. The nest step of the process is to swap out the pedals and see if the problem goes away (if not, the problem is likely the bottom bracket). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced pedals before, own a good pedal wrench, and know &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/3957/8&quot;&gt;how to remember which pedal has reverse threading&lt;/a&gt;. I was surprised to find that I couldn't get my only spare pair off the cranks--they were removed from a bent frame for me by a shop, an currently live in a box next to the frame I'll eventually hang them on. I usually grip the crank opposite to the one I'm removing a pedal from, but I can't get any leverage with just one crank! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR/ &lt;strong&gt;The question:&lt;/strong&gt; How do I get enough leverage to remove the pedals from these free-range and short mountain cranks? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T17:10:21.883" Title="How to get enough leverage to remove pedals when their cranks are not attached to a bike?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4148" CreationDate="2011-06-09T02:04:28.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option would be to place the crank in a table vise - or in a pipe that has been gripped in a table vise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to a vise, another option is to try and attach the pedal wrench so that the handle is only a few degrees away from inline with (right on top of) the crank, so that you squeeze the wrench and the crank together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T02:04:28.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4151" CreationDate="2011-06-09T02:12:35.643" Score="2" ViewCount="1857" Body="&lt;p&gt;Among the bikes in my stable is a department store tandem that really isn't worth much, but would be enjoyable to ride with my wife.  Like many department store bikes this one was not assembled correctly and now the pedal threads on the right front crank are beyond stripped, there are millimeters of smooth clearance around where it would screw in. It doesn't appear that it could be re-threaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, on a normal bike the right crank has the splines for the chainrings, and the left is unadorned.  On the front crank of a tandem this is backwards.  So while I can find replacement left crank arms, what I really need is a plain 170 mm right crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched my usual online retailers to no avail - and don't want to spent the $$$ for a full, 4 crank arm tandem set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know where I might find one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T08:59:34.010" Title="Where Can I Find a Single Right Front Crank Arm for a Tandem?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4150" CreationDate="2011-06-09T02:30:29.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that some BMXs have left side drive. I actually found this out by accidentally ordering a left hand freewheel that was backwards on my single speed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if these cranks will work for you but it might be a place to look. Wikipedia describes left side drive &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flip-flop_hub#BMX.2FSingle_Speed_Bicycles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here &lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CR407Z20-Sugino+Xd500+Tandem+Crank+Arm.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;JensonUSA&lt;/a&gt; have Sugino tandem crank arms sold separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T03:44:11.637" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T03:44:11.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4150" CreationDate="2011-06-09T02:44:10.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheap options are fitting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.emhart.com/brands/heli-coil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;helicoil&lt;/a&gt; or equivalent to replace the thread, or finding another cheap tandem that's been wrecked and get the part from that. The helicoil is probably the easiest option, but if you can find a wrecked tandem that will possibly be cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are companies that re-tap cranks for tandems (&lt;a href=&quot;http://greenspeed.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Greenspeed&lt;/a&gt; is one) but that adds $50 or so to the cost, however it may be less because they have a surplus of spider-less cranks (a tandem needs three spiders and one spiderless crank, leaving two spare). It would be worth asking them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T02:44:10.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4395" CreationDate="2011-06-09T07:58:59.590" Score="4" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to travel in Italy by bike for 1 month, from the north (Venice) to the south (Sicilian) and back to Rome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not professional, but also not a beginner. I need some help information about my route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you recommend some popular routes and camping stations in Italy?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In northern Italy (Verona, Venice, and so on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Near Rome, the capital of Italy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Route from east to west side of Apennines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On Sicilian&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any sites with roadmaps you recommend? Can you recommend some specific map creators (not GPS, unfortunately), and where can I buy such maps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any preferred way to travel with bicycles then we are not using them (on train, on bus or something)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1624" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T21:06:57.843" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T22:22:22.940" Title="A month in Italy (May or June) on a bicycle - advice needed" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;maps&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4140" CreationDate="2011-06-09T08:39:03.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the brake pads are worn down to the metal, then yes they can make a screeching noise and eat into the wheel.  This will eventually destroy the wheel by creating a bow shaped groove in the wheel, whereby the it will become deeper and deeper until the inner tube pops out from the top and pops on the metal brake block.  Of course that's an extreme situation of bike negligence.  In answer to your question, under certain &quot;extreme&quot; situations it could happen, however this shouldn't hamper your choice between cantilever or v-brakes, just change your brake blocks and other than light wear and tear (over years) your rims should be absolutely fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T08:39:03.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4150" CreationDate="2011-06-09T08:59:34.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a nice bargain priced set on ebay right now - Sugino, search 'tandem crank' should get you there. Get your bid in, sure the crank will be good and you will have spares for all the rest. Failing that you can get a spare from Middleburn in the UK - pop them an email.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T08:59:34.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4153" CreationDate="2011-06-09T09:55:23.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These guys come to London bike shows to &lt;em&gt;pedal&lt;/em&gt; their wares and have been in business for years:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riccionebikehotels.it/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.riccionebikehotels.it/en/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also their competitors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.italybikehotels.it/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.italybikehotels.it/en/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out what they have to offer, maybe a bit too organised for you, but they have probably worked out routes that work. I have not been with them myself, however, a 'bike hotel' sounds fun to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T09:55:23.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4158" CreationDate="2011-06-09T10:10:56.007" Score="6" ViewCount="4927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm restoring the first adult bike I owned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has about 30 years and was made by a brand that no longer exists, which makes it some sort of a semi-relic :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that the brand stickers at the frame, are very scratched and I plan to paint the frame and so probably they will have to be removed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that when restoring an old bike the stickers are important, and I think this is a matter of &quot;are the stickers &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; important in this particular bike?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, should I keep the stickers and try to restore the rest of the frame the best that I can, or just remove them and do a &lt;em&gt;proper&lt;/em&gt; restore?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, this bike's value isn't that much, even with its &lt;em&gt;semi-relic&lt;/em&gt; status, I'm just afraid of making the mistake of taking the stickers and find out that it was best to leave them on. This combined to my urge to take a lot of pictures in high-quality to preserve a record of how it looked before the restoration, and then work on it stripped from any sticker, with a proper paint job and all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T17:55:06.437" Title="restoring old bike, remove scratched stickers, yes or no?" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4157" CreationDate="2011-06-09T11:09:40.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you feel the bike has no significant resale value, then why not just do what would produce the results YOU would like the most?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you really want to preserve the stickers, but want to avoid the trouble and less than ideal paint job due to masking them, I'm guessing it would be possible to photograph (and PhotoShop) them (or find matching images on the web) and then reproduce them somehow with a reasonably waterproof printing scheme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T11:09:40.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4157" CreationDate="2011-06-09T11:46:29.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why don't you see how well you do at recreating the sticker set/finding it on ebay THEN decide on your restoration strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Daniel's answer applies. Get them made up in Photoshop, certainly go for the better paint job first, particularly if restoration is the dream. Clearcoat over the stickers is a nice feature too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most UK frame restorers/painters have no problem at all in getting replacement stickers, even if they are not identical your mates will not spot that, they will just see 'wow' paint finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask around, there are a surprising amount of decals in warehouses and workshops. Here is a starter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yellowjersey.org/vindecal.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.yellowjersey.org/vindecal.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T11:46:29.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4161" CreationDate="2011-06-09T12:47:17.000" Score="4" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are electronic security tags (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.immobitag.com/uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Immobitag&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.datatag.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Datatag&lt;/a&gt;) a good idea? Are the stickers likely to deter theft and does the electronic tag increase the chances of recovery in the event of theft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T15:08:34.393" Title="electronic security tags" Tags="&lt;uk&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4160" CreationDate="2011-06-09T13:15:41.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I suppose 'every bit helps' but, in a nutshell, 'no'.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having reported my bike stolen and having handed in a lost/stolen bike (so I could recover it under finders/keepers rules) I am familiar with the backwardness of the whole Police process of dealing with stolen bicycles. Last time I went through the hoops the concept of 'mountain bike' was new fangled - you could specify rod or caliper brakes but not cantilevers, never mind disc or 'v'. Frankly it is a miracle they ever repatriate bikes due to visual identification. Given this one would expect that the 'Datatag' would be exactly what everyone apart from the thief needs...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also know that 'Datatags' are definitely not what you might call a hot seller in bicycle shops - they might be in the motorbike world but bikers only put them in because they have to be insured. If they were that good then people would be queuing up for them, as it is they just collect dust in bike shops that actually stock them. This means that they are not in common circulation. This affects the likelihood that the Police will check for them as well as their deterrent effect to thieves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The likelihood of your tagged bike being found by the police is going to be slim, only if it gets handed in are you likely to benefit from the Datatag and that is assuming the Police have one of those scanners anyway. I have not heard of these things working - there is a complete absence of anecdotal evidence on the internets too. I think that 'Datatag' stickers are a bit like car alarms in that nobody takes them seriously except for insurance companies. This is no criticism of 'Datatag', the product they make and the goal of the product, it is just that there is a big difference between the marketing theory and the practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I do have faith in the new Bike Register scheme and have my bike tagged by the Police. Most Police do have days in the town centre where they mark bikes up for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the scheme is free and endorsed by them you have to wonder why bother with any other scheme, particularly if there is practically no evidence of it having ever worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeregister.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeregister.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get stickers with Bike Register and you put all your details with them, an improvement on postcoding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T15:08:34.393" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T15:08:34.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2011-06-09T19:38:31.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love my Torque Wrench. It takes away the guesswork of being sure you are tight enough. I picked up one from and off brand that was calibrated in inch/lbs, and it wasn't as expensive as the park version. If you are no pro and working with carbon fiber, you need this tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1627" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T19:38:31.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4182" CreationDate="2011-06-09T20:01:31.183" Score="3" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at a 10-12 speed bicycle from the days before indexed gears you have a 27&quot;/700c wheel with a 42/52 chainset and a 14-28 freewheel. At the time such a setup was standard for High Street bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays your affordable bicycle has 24-30 speeds. Typically you get a 26&quot; or 700c wheel with a 44/32/22 triple chainset and 8-10 gears on the back with a range going from 13 to 32. Put it into the smallest gear and pedal at a reasonable cadence and you get to travel at slower than walking speed. Push it into the big gear and you are a long way short of the 52/14 gear of granddad's bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly technology has advanced and you can have lots more gears across a bigger range. However, has there been a trend with affordable 'High Street' bikes towards lower and lower gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have we collectively learned to pedal quicker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have market forces resulted in 'easier' gearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T20:37:16.097" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T15:30:44.603" Title="Has bicycle gearing become 'easier' over the last few decades?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-09T20:07:15.113" Score="16" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you try to help somebody get into cycling (buy girlfriend a bike, fix up a &#xA;friend's bike, give a bike to family, help friend shop for bike) and they never&#xA;really get into it and fall back into the previous non-cycling habits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other times you do even less work and it &quot;takes&quot; and they get into cycling&#xA;and stick with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear to me why some attempts succeed and others fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have you found worked to get somebody into cycling? What have you&#xA;seen work with others? What worked to get you into cycling? What techniques from other areas have you seen work that you think could work with cycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, a good first step is simply setting a good example, but we're looking for more than just that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This started as a rewrite of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4086/what-tactics-other-than-setting-an-example-successfully-encourage-friends-famil&quot;&gt;What tactics other than &amp;#39;setting an example&amp;#39; successfully encourage friends/family/others to become cyclists?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;discussed at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/319/how-can-this-question-be-improved&quot;&gt;How can this question be improved?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T19:57:34.043" Title="How to encourage people close to me to become cyclists?" Tags="&lt;reference&gt;&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-09T20:08:59.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2011-06-09T20:26:24.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my case, I was able to get my wife into bicycling... to a point. I told her about my tours, and let her know she was welcome to come along. However, there were two factors that really sold her on cycle touring, even though she's not interested in longer tours, or ones that go for more than a few days: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Designing tours appropriate for her&lt;/strong&gt; helped enormously. Our most successful and fun joint tour was a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/ithaca&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5-day jaunt around the Finger Lakes&lt;/a&gt; in New York state, with days kept to no more than 20-30 miles. Hell, we rode less than 110 miles over five days, and we had a blast! &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prior to this, we went shopping and &lt;strong&gt;got her a bike that fit&lt;/strong&gt;. Cycling's no fun if your bike is a torture machine; her bike prior to that, a Mongoose steel mountain tank, was no fun to ride and too large for her. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On our next tour together, a 3-day tour in the DC area, she had her longest day yet--49 miles. (She kept insisting we go on.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, don't push or you will almost certainly make bicycling seem like a chore undertaken to appease. I gave her the opportunity to have a comfortable ride on tours appropriate for her skill level. I'd like it if we toured together more often, but I'm happy that we tour together as often as we do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T20:26:24.763" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-09T20:26:24.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2011-06-09T20:29:06.740" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Set a good example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, this is the baseline for almost any personal cycling advocacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Be available to help&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make it clear that you're available (but not pushy) to help any friends/family with cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A challenge to get them in the habit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bayareabikes.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;regional bicycle coalition&lt;/a&gt; does a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youcanbikethere.com/tbc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Team Bike Challenge&lt;/a&gt; as part of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youcanbikethere.com/about&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bike to Work Day/Month&lt;/a&gt;. They change the rules each year, but basically your team earns points the more you use a bicycle for transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple years ago, I &quot;captained&quot; a bike to work month team and got a few of my co-workers onto the team.  This requires identifying people who are likely cyclists who could possibly be convinced to bike commute regularly.  My team also had another person who already biked to work regularly during good weather. A couple of those team members are now regularly commuting to work on their bicycles, and one of them helps out at the local bike co-op type place now, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the two key aspects of this are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making it competitive provides motivation to do it day after day&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doing it day after day makes it a habit. Once you're in the habit, it's really no harder than riding to work. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A very close personal relationship&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(borrowing a bit from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4086/what-tactics-other-than-setting-an-example-successfully-encourage-friends-famil/4099#4099&quot;&gt;moz's sexier answer on the original version of this question&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can take several years. It's a very slow conversion process. Seems to have worked with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/76/freiheit&quot;&gt;freiheit♦&lt;/a&gt;'s current girlfriend, and with 2 of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1082/moz&quot;&gt;moz&lt;/a&gt;'s girlfriends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the fact that it's an activity you can do on your own, with your life partner, or with random acquaintances helps a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a potential mate/girlfriend/boyfriend/spouse who is a potential cyclist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Through years of relationship, set a good cycling example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Help them get a bicycle (buy for them, help them shop, whatever) when they indicate interest (don't push)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Help them with any issues that come up. Fix a flat now and then, work on the bike (or get it to a shop) when maintenance is needed. Help them get the right &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory&quot;&gt;accessories&lt;/a&gt;, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Help them get that second bicycle when they figure out that the first one wasn't quite right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Help them get that third bicycle when they think they've finally got everything figured out just right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Start early&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put your children on a bike as early as possible, first on a child seat on your bike (as soon as their head stands, 8/9 months) then on their own bike (3/4 years). Go to school by bike with them. Sooner or later, their mother will be converted as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T14:43:21.113" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-09T20:29:06.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4163" CreationDate="2011-06-09T20:50:55.713" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think gearing has become more &quot;complex&quot; over the last few decades, but I wouldn't say its become &quot;easier.&quot; Material weight of the frame and parts have gone down on affordable bikes, which translates directly into a lighter bike under the average rider. Also, There are a number of people who believe that a higher cadence isn't a bad thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://coachlevi.com/cycling/high-vs-low-cadence-pedaling-speed/&quot;&gt;http://coachlevi.com/cycling/high-vs-low-cadence-pedaling-speed/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, most mid-level road bikes have a large cog of 52/53 and the rear cassette will go down to 12. so thats pretty close to your granddad's ratio!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1627" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T20:50:55.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4179" CreationDate="2011-06-09T21:27:44.623" Score="4" ViewCount="2051" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allegedly chain-drive gears are something like 99% efficient when well oiled and something like 98% efficient when without oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I do not like the noise a dry chain makes, this has a &lt;em&gt;'I must be going slow'&lt;/em&gt; psychological effect on my riding so, even if I am not going slow, I think that I am. For this reason I never drive with a dry chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the efficiency gains of an oiled chain are minor then that means the main reason for oiling the chain is to reduce wear/prevent rust rather than efficiency/speed. This is why I would like to know the efficiency of a chain when oiled as well as dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparisons against other drive mechanisms and their efficiency, e.g. bicycle shaft drive, automatic car transmission are also of interest to put the oiled/dry chain in context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T10:23:03.673" Title="Are chain-drive gears 'ridiculously' efficient even when dry of oil?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4168" CreationDate="2011-06-09T23:02:18.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This IHPVA research paper suggests that oil does not help with efficiency: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question discusses efficiency for hub gears vs derailleurs and links to research: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/188/whats-the-efficiency-of-hub-gears-compared-to-derailleurs&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s the efficiency of hub gears compared to derailleurs?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T23:02:18.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2011-06-09T23:09:44.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mentoring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find mentoring is effective. Ride to work with them every day for a few weeks, and ideally ride home too. If there's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebus.org.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike bus&lt;/a&gt; available, join that. Bike buses work largely through the same things as mentoring - someone is there every day to take you to work and home again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works in several ways. First, they've got someone to show them how it's done - which route to use, how to handle the tricky spots and so on. Just having someone else there is a huge confidence boost for many people. Second, theres the sense of obligation that comes from having a friend on your doorstep. It's much harder to say &quot;no, I'm taking the bus&quot; to someone face to face than to an unloved bicycle in the back shed. And finally, you're there to directly answer the inevitable questions and problems. If they get a flat tyre, you can either show them how to fix it or provide pointers if they get stuck, or fix it for them. This also means that instead of a pile of &quot;what if&quot;s that gets bigger and scarier the longer they don't ride, they have the universal &quot;{mentor} will fix it&quot; solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(in as a separate answer because mentoring doesn't have to be as personal, it's possible to be a &quot;community mentor&quot; like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sydneycyclist.com/profile/BikeSaint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeSaint&lt;/a&gt; is. BTW, that's a name she has been given, not one she picked)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T23:09:44.577" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-09T23:09:44.577" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4173" CreationDate="2011-06-10T00:25:28.593" Score="-4" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few options, please explain which one is better and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SCHWINN Searcher Comp &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mojekolo.cz/8413-schwinn-searcher-comp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mojekolo.cz/8413-schwinn-searcher-comp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GT Transeo 2.0 (2009) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mojekolo.cz/11218-gt-transeo-2.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mojekolo.cz/11218-gt-transeo-2.0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mongoose Crossway 450 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mojekolo.cz/8371-mongoose-crossway-450&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mojekolo.cz/8371-mongoose-crossway-450&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, I know nothing about the components and quality that comes with each bike.&#xA;I mainly want to use it for cycling around town and some off road on paths, no hardcore downhill or racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-10T05:24:37.723" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T05:24:37.723" Title="Which of these bikes is best for trails and bike paths?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2013-09-13T13:47:31.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4022" CreationDate="2011-06-10T02:24:46.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In answer to another question moz posted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link to a IHPVA research paper&lt;/a&gt;, which includes (on pages 15 though 17) results of testing the &lt;strong&gt;rolling resistance&lt;/strong&gt; of different tires, at different speeds and pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T02:24:46.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4171" CreationDate="2011-06-10T04:30:59.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming these are the bikes (sorry, I can't read Czech).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2010&amp;amp;Brand=Schwinn&amp;amp;Model=Searcher+Comp&amp;amp;Type=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2010&amp;amp;Brand=Schwinn&amp;amp;Model=Searcher+Comp&amp;amp;Type=bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2010&amp;amp;Brand=GT&amp;amp;Model=Transeo+2.0+Disc&amp;amp;Type=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2010&amp;amp;Brand=GT&amp;amp;Model=Transeo+2.0+Disc&amp;amp;Type=bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/mongoose/crossway-450-disc-2010-hybrid-bike-ec020875&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/mongoose/crossway-450-disc-2010-hybrid-bike-ec020875&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They all seem very similar - they're hybrid bikes with front suspension, aluminium frames and disk brakes built to a low price point. That and your comments make me believe that your &quot;path&quot; comment refers to sealed bike paths rather than mountain bike tracks. The GT has hydraulic brakes, the other two mechanical. On a cheap bike I favour mechanical brakes because hydraulic brakes are hard (expensive) to build well, and they're also expensive to maintain. But the GT is also 50% more expensive, so if you can get it for a similar price it is probably a bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest that the only way to pick one over the others is to test ride all three. If you can't do that it's guesswork - pick the colour you like or just buy the cheapest one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T04:30:59.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4175" CreationDate="2011-06-10T09:32:26.013" Score="0" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in purchasing a bike, however due to my location can't get into a bike shop, so will need to order it online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2009 GT 2.0 Transeo I am interested in does not explicitly say it has v-brakes. I know it is not the disk version though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2010 GT 2.0 Transeo mentions it has v-brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the v-brake a fairly recent improvement in rim brakes as recent as 2010? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I know it is common for people to assume disk brakes are better. But I'm trying to bring down the price of my purchase, and do not intend to go cycling on rough mountain paths, or do too much wet/muddy condition cycling. Which is better in your opinion for my usage?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T15:25:10.097" Title="Quick question about V-Brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4174" CreationDate="2011-06-10T09:46:09.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2009 edition will have 'V' brakes, although they may be called 'cantilevers' or something else that describes roughly the same thing. This is base specification for an MTB, to be assumed unless stated otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disk brakes are better in the wet because the braking surface stays nice and dry, however, you can still stop in the wet with V brakes. We have already had this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1500/why-dont-road-bikes-have-disc-brakes/3862#3862&quot;&gt;Why are disc brakes rare on road bikes?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T09:46:09.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2011-06-10T11:07:25.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculate the internal rate of return (IRR), i.e. the rate by which the value of future cash flow is zero. First cost could be the purchase of bike and then positive inflows could be the amount otherwise used for transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is perhaps just my environment but I have moved a number of Audi guys to bicycles when I showed how poor investments their 5km trips to work have been, something that my peers cannot stand ;D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strategy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be a good example by doing your balance, analyzing your allocation and consumption&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fire up a spreadsheet, play with IRR -function (you need to have one negative value)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...and have fun! &lt;em&gt;-Yes, you can do games even with spreadsheets.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;P.s. Do not mention about the B-type arbitrages you can get, you better keep them for yourselves...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2013-09-21T05:39:14.930" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T05:39:14.930" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-10T11:07:25.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="188" CreationDate="2011-06-10T12:13:32.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say, in The Netherlands were the majority of bikes are used as a means of personal transportation the vast majority of gears are hub gears. The main reason is their very low maintenance, and of course the fact that you get a proper chain cover. For use as means of transportat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1629" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T12:13:32.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2011-06-10T14:41:58.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say 'road bike' I think you just meant &quot;not an off-road bike&quot; ... you didn't necessarily mean &quot;racing bike&quot; ... you might have meant to include, I don't the term, a 'town bike' ... for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that kind of bike, if you're not seeing disc brakes, I think that's because of the price range that you're looking at. When I looked into a bike shop full of bikes which cost up to about $650 then I don't see disc brakes. If I look at bikes whose prices start at about $750 then maybe they do have disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T14:41:58.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4168" CreationDate="2011-06-10T14:42:13.363" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the efficiency gains of an oiled&#xA;  chain are minor then that means the&#xA;  main reason for oiling the chain is to&#xA;  reduce wear/prevent rust rather than&#xA;  efficiency/speed. This is why I would&#xA;  like to know the efficiency of a chain&#xA;  when oiled as well as dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As explained in the IHPVA paper linked in moz's answer, apparently lubricating the chain makes little difference for efficiency, so yes, it's mainly to &quot;reduce wear/prevent rust&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you should note that the IHPVA paper apparently used a new chain in mint condition. It may well be that the lubrication does not make a difference in this case. Still, an unlubricated chain will corrode &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; faster than a lubricated one, and corrosion does make a huge difference in efficiency (as it increases internal friction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in practice, lubrication include efficiency, though indirectly (by preventing corrosion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T14:42:13.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4185" CreationDate="2011-06-10T15:15:35.947" Score="4" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you get spokes cut to length for replacement use in run-of-the-mill bikes, e.g. one with an older 26 x 1 3/8  wheel where there is not likely to be a standard size in the 'DT Swiss' range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any recommendations on how to accurately get the length right? I imagine this is not going to be an instant job in an LBS, does anyone do this mail order (particularly in the UK)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do bike shops generally have that tool to put a thread on the end of a cut-to-length spoke or has that gone the way of the buggy whip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T17:04:37.163" Title="Best advice for buying a replacement spoke" Tags="&lt;uk&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4174" CreationDate="2011-06-10T15:25:10.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;V-Brake&quot; (originally a proprietary term from Shimano, but universally used now) was the replacement for the &quot;Cantilever&quot; brake which was generally used maybe 20 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, V-brakes are a form of cantilever brake, but they have better leverage and a simplified alignment system.  Keeping &quot;cantis&quot; aligned was...Annoying,  (however, they did last a long time)&#xA;V-Brakes are fine.  They are powerful enough to lock wheels if you want to, easy to maintain, and replacement pads are readily available.   They do tend to have shorter life, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T15:25:10.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4163" CreationDate="2011-06-10T15:30:44.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will say this as one who's been riding since the mid-70s (riding seriously, that is...)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roadsters of that vintage tended to have gearsets that we would generally think of now as meant for racing.  Maybe a 24-tooth low cog.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've often said that riders back then must have on average been manlier men or a lot smaller....&#xA;Now, low cogs running from 28 to 32 teeth are common, and on a lot of lower-end bikes you see the &quot;extended range&quot; gearset which features a low cog much larger than the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is largely because the cycling public is now on average both older and heavier, and us older, bigger guys need low gears....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can still get 11-24 cassettes, of course, just depends on how sturdy your &quot;motor&quot; is and where you're riding.   Few will be able to flog such a gearset up an Alp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T15:30:44.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-10T15:50:24.810" Score="22" ViewCount="77491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have painted a couple bike frames (think really cheap garage-find rebuilds) with varying degrees of failure. Can you help me correct/fill in the missing pieces of my frame painting process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Breaking Down the Bike: Remove everything except the Bottom Bracket, which can be masked. (Removing BB is to easy for me to mess up) Fork can be removed and painted separately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stripping old paint off a bike frame: Easy enough using scraper, sandpaper, and even super-dangerous paint stripper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning off Rust: Rust can be sanded off pretty easily, even using tinfoil on sensitive/chrome areas works really well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Masking: Mask the BB, the Fork and Seatpost holes, and anything else that shouldn't be painted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Priming: A few coats of primer is absolutely necessary to fight rust.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Painting: &lt;strong&gt;Here's where I am lost.&lt;/strong&gt;  I have heard these options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spraypaint/Rattle-Can: Worst Method, use Engine-Coat Epoxy paints, many coats, need to cure for weeks before anywhere near scratch-resistant.  Even then a strong fingernail seems to be able to strip paint.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Powder-Coating at an AutoBody shop: Don't know much about the cost &lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Costs around $200, according to wdypdx22 below. or pros and cons. Probably not financially feasible on a garage-find bike build, or am I wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Other Options?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1632" LastEditorUserId="1632" LastEditDate="2011-06-12T04:51:09.113" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T10:58:39.870" Title="DIY Painting a Bike Frame: Is it possible?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4183" CreationDate="2011-06-10T16:40:20.037" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put in a lot of effort painting a bike as you describe, i.e. properly given non-specialist materials and lots of elbow grease. However, for the effort, I do think it is worth removing the bottom bracket and headset cups. (Or getting someone to remove them for you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was traumatized when my freshly painted-in-yellow bike fell over for the top tube to scratch its way down a stone pillar. That made me think 'never again' to spending a whole weekend and a week's worth of evenings 'getting it right'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my next attempt I went for stove enamelling. This was with a local place and the price was a bargain. They did not specialize in bikes but they had no problems with my frame/fork. The look was good and I had not had to wait long, just strip my bike down, and on return 3 days later I could build it up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stove enamel is different to powder coating. You can look up the pros and cons of stove-enamel vs powder, personally I think that it depends on the look that you want. Other than that enamel is easier to maintain as it is T-cut compatible with no clear-coat needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a bike that looks different then there is a lot that you can do with the stove-enamel paint job. It has a different shininess to it, verging on matte.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some things it is better to do it yourself if you want a proper job. This is not the case with paint as people that do it everyday have skill and experience that your extra effort and attention to detail is not going to make up for. It is like plastering - all considered it is better to get a professional in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other strategies for painting a bike. You can give it a good clean and slap loads of Hammerite on it with a brush. This will result in the distinctive Hammerite finish - usually reserved for garden gates and tin sheds. Totally bulletproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another bicycle I liked the paint job but I knew I would be kidding myself if I tried to touch it up. So I used a complementary colour. With a wire brush I cleaned the new chips and quickly put the touch up paint on every time I refurbished the bike. This resulted in an 'art-is-tic innit' theme that people complimented me on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go for something really unusual you can go for nickel plating. This is like chrome but better when it comes to rust, particularly if you clearcoat it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On balance powder coating is better than stove enamel: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.windridge.co.uk/content.php/412&quot;&gt;http://www.windridge.co.uk/content.php/412&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of note is that a professional paint shop can shot-blast the paint off your bike in minutes, to a better result than spending all weekend with wet-or-dry paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation: posh bike - get the pros to do it. Heap-of-junk, touch up with complementary colour(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T18:11:07.800" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T18:11:07.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4180" CreationDate="2011-06-10T17:04:37.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth asking at your LBS. If you've got more than one LBS, try asking them all.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if most bike shops have it, but I know at least one of my LBSs has a piece of equipment that cuts a spoke and puts a thread on it at the same time. They routinely cut (and thread) spokes to length. From talking with one of their employees, I guess it was a better deal for them than trying to stock a ton of different length spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rims might be a few fairly standard sizes, but there's a lot of variety in hub flange diameter. Spoke lacing pattern also affects the needed lengths. In other words, even your unusual size might be something they already stock. Or if they've got something that's just a millimeter or two too long, it's probably possible to cut it without putting thread on it and still have a useful spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T17:04:37.163" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4183" CreationDate="2011-06-10T17:39:38.373" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert on this, but I do have a friend who &lt;em&gt;immaculately&lt;/em&gt; restores vintage bicycles. I've helped him on a few projects and this is roughly what he does. (My friend started out 5 or 6 years ago with an old cruiser and cans of spray paint. Wound up becoming obsessed and ended up with a spray painting set-up that he found on Craigslist...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically he starts with your steps 1 - 4 for paint removal, although more advanced. My friend has professional grade spray painting equipment and uses industrial grade coatings, so he's not using rattle cans of spray paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the paint removal, he re-tapes with a finer grade of masking tape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Usually 2 coats of epoxy based primer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 - 4 coats of color, which is an industrial grade polyurethane paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the color phase, he deals with lug detailing and decals. This part is tedious and time consuming.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, 3 coats of clearcoat. And then the frame hangs in the paint shed for 24 to 48 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're serious about it, I can find out what brands, etc he uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for powder-coating, another acquaintance recently spent ~ $200 USD on a frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Yeah, totally possible&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; However, sending your bike frame off to the paint shop for powder-coating ceases to be DIY. ;~)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T05:38:25.877" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T05:38:25.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4727" CreationDate="2011-06-11T06:32:05.813" Score="0" ViewCount="1602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have one to examine. How exactly does a crankset removal work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0028YUZSS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-08T01:41:39.393" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T01:41:39.393" Title="How does a crankset removal tool work?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4188" CreationDate="2011-06-11T06:41:58.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;answering my own question :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cotterless.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cotterless.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as usual sheldon brown beat the internet to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T06:41:58.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4201" CreationDate="2011-06-11T07:19:57.367" Score="1" ViewCount="13015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to just add some grease to an old MF-Z012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;some pages online says i can remove it just by spining the first gear agains the last one.(e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclebanter.com/showthread.php?s=e4a1c90962d5cdf765e2fd15d37c96cd&amp;amp;t=75231&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclebanter.com/showthread.php?s=e4a1c90962d5cdf765e2fd15d37c96cd&amp;amp;t=75231&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i can easily fabricate some chain whips with an old chain and vise-grip and try it... but the question is: is this true? or will i just waste time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the freewheel does have a connector for a TL-FW30... but I do not have said tool and am more concerned about time to get one than price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, did anyone ever removed/installed a MF-Z012 by just spinning the smallest sprocket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2019-09-26T11:43:11.203" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T11:43:11.203" Title="Removing freewheel MF-Z012 without tools" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4192" CreationDate="2011-06-11T08:04:23.990" Score="2" ViewCount="3685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand the numbering system on TREK bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the lower the number the better, or the higher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is exactly is the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T16:17:29.683" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T17:28:09.560" Title="What is the difference between a TREK 7.2 FX and a TREK 7.3 FX?" Tags="&lt;cross-training&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4191" CreationDate="2011-06-11T09:40:50.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This higher numbers are upgrades.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/story/fx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrades on 7.3 FX from 7.2 FX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;IsoZone grip and handlebar system&#xA;Bontrager Race All-Weather Hard-Case tires&#xA;Alloy FX Fork&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="515" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T17:28:09.560" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T17:28:09.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4191" CreationDate="2011-06-11T14:43:33.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So....Not much.   I'm currently working on one of these, an older 7.3, and it's equipped almost exactly as the 7.2 is now.   Has the steel fork and the regular handlebar grips.   Tires are Bontrager...Don't know which model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice bike, I'm considering keeping it.  (I refurbish bikes for re-sale)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T14:43:33.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4195" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-11T15:01:33.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag is for questions used in London, the capital of England and the United Kingdom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T15:12:44.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T15:12:44.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4196" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-11T15:01:33.393" Score="0" Body="London is the capital of England and the United Kingdom." OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T15:13:10.017" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T15:13:10.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4197" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-11T19:04:01.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Minimising physical discomfort and increasing performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T19:19:36.687" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T19:19:36.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4198" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-11T19:04:01.623" Score="0" Body="For questions about the ergonomics (human factors) of cycling and related activities, mostly related to the positioning and motion of the body and its joints to avoid injury and increase comfort and performance." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="43557" LastEditDate="2021-03-10T22:01:55.500" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T22:01:55.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4255" CreationDate="2011-06-11T19:05:27.893" Score="2" ViewCount="2240" Body="&lt;p&gt;The kickstand that came with my bike is rusty and is difficult to adjust. What should I use for lubrication?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T17:13:58.927" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T17:13:58.927" Title="What should I use to lubricate my kickstand?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;kickstand&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4199" CreationDate="2011-06-11T21:16:53.957" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;GT85*, with excess removed :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Or equivalent, even WD40 will suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T21:16:53.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4190" CreationDate="2011-06-11T21:25:59.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is in the question - freewheel, not freehub or cassette. You will be needing the tool and a vice (or huge adjustable spanner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to put the skewer or wheel nuts loosely on to hold the removal tool in place whilst you give it the initial heave-ho. Thereafter take the skewer/nut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to do it/fork out for the tool then ask your friendly local bike shop - it is a given that they will have the tool. Go with your big adjustable spanner and borrow the tool for five minutes (remembering to buy something) if they insist on charging you £10 for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T21:25:59.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4350" CreationDate="2011-06-12T00:25:56.853" Score="4" ViewCount="4085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the plain self-centering side-pull cantilever brakes found on 99.9% of road bikes. (Well, it's a road bike. ;) ) I've got alloy rims. Both my current internship location and back home are moderately hilly areas, which force me to &quot;ride&quot; the brakes quite a bit. I &quot;pulse&quot; the brakes a bit in order to reduce heat build up and all that jazz, but it seems I go through the pads themselves quite quickly -- my last rear pads lasted less than half a season, and the ones I replaced them with look to be on their last leg now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any issues with braking performance -- I just would like to find something that will last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for? Am I out of luck (e.g. have to switch to something like a center-pull brake design?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T16:42:11.853" Title="How do I choose brake pads?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-12T00:43:28.517" Score="22" ViewCount="6153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the ones I'm aware of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Center Pull Cantilever&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly better braking than side pull brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No recentering problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively rare&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;V-Brakes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap to produce.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar in braking power to center pull brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively short service life before the resetting springs fail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cable Disk Brakes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second best stopping power available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same kind of technology in automotive brakes, these work in wet or oily conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Require stronger rims, forks, and tires to be used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively heavy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Hydraulic Disk Brakes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stronger braking than cable disks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More complicated; more parts to break.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More expensive than cabled disk brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I missed any pro or con, or any brake types here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-12T18:35:53.633" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T11:15:09.180" Title="What kinds of brake designs exist, and what are their general pros and cons?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;glossary&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-12T16:41:17.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4207" CreationDate="2011-06-12T01:50:19.087" Score="29" ViewCount="58243" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it not distort the wheel to have the weight of the bike hanging from just that one spot? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it OK for any kind of wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have nicer race-type wheels on mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edited to connect with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/33156/any-detriment-to-hanging-a-bike-by-its-front-wheel/33158#33158&quot;&gt;Any detriment to hanging a bike by its front wheel?&lt;/a&gt; ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1637" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T00:23:24.937" Title="Is it really OK to hang a bicycle by the wheel from a hook?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4204" CreationDate="2011-06-12T11:49:18.493" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many bike shops, collectors, or racers hang their bicycles by the wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels are made to withstand the weight of the rider while going through road bumps. The forces of a hanging bicycle are way less than anything the wheels are designed for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some very deep aerodynamic rims (say, Campa Bora) might require some special hook with a wider seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people say to hang the bike only by the rear wheel to avoid stress on the headset or fork. This might be true for some particularly light built bikes. On a &quot;normal&quot; road bike, I wouldnt worry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on some aero front wheels with large distances between spokes, I would take care to place the hook near to, or between the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to take care not to scratch your rims. Use protective covers on the hooks, and dont hang a sandy-dirty wheel, or you will get sand on the protective cover, scratching the rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to keep several bicycles, this is probably the most space-conserving way to store them. Hang them alternately by the front wheel and back wheel side by side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to hang only one bike, I propose hanging it by the handlebar, using a forked hook, or two hooks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Park Tools have a cheap hook: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/storage-hook-machine-thread-450&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/storage-hook-machine-thread-450&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastEditorUserId="1165" LastEditDate="2011-06-12T12:07:12.547" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T12:07:12.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4204" CreationDate="2011-06-12T14:44:14.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;So long as you don't use cheap 'pound shop' hooks screwed into some plasterboard to hang up a really heavy BMX (with pegs on the axles) then I doubt you will have any health and safety issues. Those 'pound shop' hooks are designed for hoes and other garden tools, not bicycles. You also have to be careful about what you are screwing into - your average hook will work well carrying weight if screwed into the ceiling, put it round 90 degrees into the wall and any weight applied is trying to shear it out. This should be okay with a quality hook but not with the cheapies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a tenant then it might be an idea to ask the landlord first otherwise he will have another excuse to not return your deposit when you move out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you wanted the bike's perspective. Posipiet has that covered - in summary it is highly unlikely that you will damage the rim if using a typical plastic covered hook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T14:44:14.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4951" CreationDate="2011-06-12T14:52:23.523" Score="2" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike is about 15 years old. The size of tyre is probably 28.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to change the old chain.&#xA;I am not sure which chain I can put to the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does any chain which length is enough for 28 fit my bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1638" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T17:01:30.240" Title="Which chain should I use for Rex Touring with 5 gears?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4203" CreationDate="2011-06-12T15:07:30.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll be needing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_brake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia page on bicycle brakes&lt;/a&gt; for this as they have everything covered, including history and the rare types that are no longer in general circulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your assertion that sidepull brakes aren't up to much, these exquisite beauties will stop anything with modulation and feel that no MTB has ever had:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Z2NK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Look how beautiful!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T15:07:30.410" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-12T16:41:17.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4340" CreationDate="2011-06-12T16:16:18.180" Score="12" ViewCount="8720" Body="&lt;p&gt;People say (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4203/what-kinds-of-brake-designs-exist-and-what-are-their-general-pros-and-cons&quot;&gt;for example here&lt;/a&gt;) that disc brakes are relatively heavy, giving this as a reason for not using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much heavier than rim brakes are disc brakes? Is the extra heaviness in the brakes, or in the stronger rims, tires, and/or forks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="53440" LastEditDate="2020-11-11T21:04:52.533" LastActivityDate="2021-04-02T11:01:24.997" Title="Relative weight of disc brakes" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4210" CreationDate="2011-06-12T16:56:31.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of those examples you cite add to the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think the biggest complaint is the brakes themselves. Not only do you need a caliper which needs to be much stronger (and therefore heavier) because it's dealing with huge amounts of compression, you've got to have the extra disk hanging on your wheels, along with the associated mounting hardware for both parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T16:56:31.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4203" CreationDate="2011-06-12T18:38:04.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Side Pull Cantilever&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not generally used anymore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Found on older bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inexpensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be knocked off center, requiring readjustment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a &lt;strong&gt;Self-Centering&lt;/strong&gt; variety:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same as the side pull cantilever, but has 3 major brake levers in the caliper, which (somehow) cause the brake to recenter itself whenever it is used. Everything that Side Pull has minus the centering problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most road bikes today are sold with these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Self-centering side-pull cantilever brakes:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5h0b8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side-pull cantilever brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/4383682952/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image credit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-12T20:53:12.467" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T20:53:12.467" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-12T18:38:04.367" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4380" CreationDate="2011-06-12T19:45:11.097" Score="36" ViewCount="88052" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, linear pull brakes (v-brakes) have more stopping power than other types of cantilever brakes (let the flames start ;). Modern road bikes always come fitted with dual pivot brakes. There isn't a massive difference in weight (Similarly priced XTR v-brakes @ 400g (F&amp;amp;R) VS Dura-Ace dual pivots @ 314g (F&amp;amp;R)) so I'm wondering if there is another reason why road bikes don't use linear pull brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it to do with 'feel'? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are my road&#xA;brakes rubbish, and most sets are&#xA;actually as powerful as v-brakes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously, current road levers&#xA;wouldn't work (well) with v-brakes..&#xA;Is it a pure legacy reason that&#xA;v-brakes aren't used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T07:15:14.040" Title="Why don't road bikes use v-brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4214" CreationDate="2011-06-12T20:03:46.720" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be tradition, and it may be aerodynamics.   Note that some roadsters do... Touring bikes have gradually been switching from the traditional cantilevers to V-Brakes.  It's for tire clearance mostly.&#xA;&quot;Good&quot; caliper roadster brakes are very powerful; A set of high-end Shimano jobs (105 or above) will lock your wheel and they are routinely used by pro road racers.&#xA;They have a minimal aero profile and contribute little drag.  They also look good on a sleek roadster.&#xA;Also, you don't have to weld or incorporate lugs onto your snazzy carbon-fiber fork legs and seat-stays, which results in a &quot;cleaner&quot; appearance and less weight as well; high-end roadsters are all about weight, as you likely know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T20:03:46.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4214" CreationDate="2011-06-12T21:13:24.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple possible reasons. Note that I don't have sources for these.. some of this is based on what's happened to bikes I've owned with both brake types, but I don't have long term data for the designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Service life. V Brakes require separate tensioned springs in the left side and right side of the brake. If one side's spring gets weaker with age, the spring on the other side pulls the whole brake out of alignment with the wheel. This forces you to tighten the spring on the weak side, which causes it to get weaker even faster, until you run out of adjustment room on the brake. When that happens, the whole brake needs to be replaced. (Speaking personally, the brake pads outlived the brake)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditional brakes use a single leaf spring, rather than two independently adjusted springs, to control the brake. This means that you never have a case where one side ends up being &quot;stronger&quot; than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, mounting hardware. V Brakes require mounting lugs relatively low on the fork, or a separate piece of metal on which the actual brake arms are mounted. On most road bikes, carbon forks are used, which makes providing these mounting lugs difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your road brakes, on most plain road brakes I've seen locking both wheels up is relatively easy to do in dry conditions, and plenty of stopping is possible in wet conditions. The only cases I've seen where you can't stop well is in oily conditions, and V Brakes don't handle those any better. (Disks are the only brake type that handles &quot;oily&quot; well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're having issues stopping, consider that the brake handles have some affect on how much force you can apply to the brakes. Really short levers do better with V Brakes simply because V Brakes provide more leverage. However, you pay for that leverage with more cable travel. I've been told (though have not verified) that V Brakes can't be used with most road brake levers simply due to cable travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T21:13:24.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4220" CreationDate="2011-06-12T21:22:18.230" Score="25" ViewCount="23542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really don't like indexed shifters, at least on the front. They're harder to adjust, more sensitive to cable stretching, and limit the number of gear combinations you can use (because you can't adjust the front derailleur cage manually to not rub on the chain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So.. why are they impossible to find these days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="1636" LastEditDate="2011-11-13T17:52:47.227" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T00:36:36.573" Title="Why has indexed shifting displaced traditional friction shifting?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2488" CreationDate="2011-06-13T05:59:46.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question asks how effective fluorescent clothes are during the day, and should he stop buying those tops for his daily commute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluorescent clothing is very effective during the day, but not so much at night. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brightkidz.co.uk/being-bright/how-hi-vis-works.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How Does Hi-Vis Clothing Work?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The main thing to remember is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;“Fluorescent for daytime visibility,&#xA;    reflective for night”&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fluorescent for Day&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Did you know...&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fluorescent colours&#xA;  help you to be seen in the daytime and&#xA;  near dusk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;They work really well in dull or rainy&#xA;  weather and when daylight is fading.&#xA;  On a rainy day it's hard for drivers&#xA;  to see pedestrians and cyclists so&#xA;  it's a good idea to wear or carry&#xA;  something fluorescent. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Fluorescent&#xA;  colours look really bright because of&#xA;  the way they absorb and emit different&#xA;  kinds of light. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Many people don't&#xA;  realise it but... fluorescent colours&#xA;  don't show up in the dark or 'glow in&#xA;  the dark'. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;To be seen by drivers at&#xA;  night you need something reflective.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;To be seen day, dusk and night you&#xA;  need something that is fluorescent and&#xA;  reflective. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Different Fluorescent Colours&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lots of colours&lt;/strong&gt; can be fluorescent and&#xA;  used for high vis clothing and bags,&#xA;  not just yellow but red, pink, green&#xA;  and orange too. (These colours are&#xA;  listed on the EN1150 quality&#xA;  standard.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In industry&lt;/strong&gt;, yellow and&#xA;  orange fluorescent clothing is often&#xA;  worn under health and safety laws (for&#xA;  quality standard EN471). You’ve&#xA;  probably seen police officers, postal&#xA;  workers, lorry drivers, builders and&#xA;  refuse collectors wearing these&#xA;  jackets. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lifeboat crews&lt;/strong&gt; have orange&#xA;  lifejackets; this colour shows up best&#xA;  against blue and grey water. What&#xA;  colour were your armbands when you&#xA;  learnt to swim?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Horse-riders&lt;/strong&gt; often&#xA;  wear pink as it is a colour not found&#xA;  often in nature and so shows up well&#xA;  against autumn leaves. The Safe Lanes&#xA;  scheme in Mayfield, Sussex has even&#xA;  encouraged motorbike riders to wear&#xA;  fluorescent pink so they can be seen!&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;However...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The colour blue is not so effective&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  for fluorescent clothing; because of&#xA;  its wavelength it is &lt;strong&gt;not good at&#xA;  emitting light&lt;/strong&gt; and the human eye is&#xA;  not so good at seeing blue generally.&#xA;  So if you’ve got a &lt;strong&gt;blue school uniform&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  it’s a good idea to also wear or carry&#xA;  something fluorescent to make &lt;strong&gt;yourself&#xA;  seen&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it continues about why reflective material is good for the night, but not during the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T05:59:46.843" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-13T05:59:46.843" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4222" CreationDate="2011-06-13T06:38:02.567" Score="6" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have asked a lot of questions here, and most of times, the answers that I get is related with having a good quality frame. But, in my nation, store owner (or mechanics) hardly give any detail regarding any frame, they just see the price and judge a frame as good or not so good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How exactly to select a good quality frame? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a typical MTB, for commuting, offroad riding, road or touring as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am expecting in terms of material, weight, welds and other relevant areas (which is obviously dont know of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T16:28:41.587" Title="How to select a good quality frame?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4217" CreationDate="2011-06-13T09:02:10.063" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no 'conspiracy' to keep friction shifters off the market just so that you have to buy the index shifters. It is simply a matter of supply and demand. Nobody in the OEM market wants friction shift gears because bikes with friction-shift simply do not sell. That leaves the after-market and you have a similar position there - the demand does not exist amongst people building up bikes/repair old bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason why the replacement part market does not exist is that friction shifters rarely break, even 'back in the day' they were not a common spare for shops to stock in depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your front-shifting problem, you do have the outer cage 'flat-bit' parallel with the chainset and clearing the outer ring by all of 1-3mm? Without that accurate positioning it is unlikely you will get your front mechanism to work. New cables help, and if you follow the Shimano/SRAM/Campagnolo manual to the letter, making sure no dropouts or derailleurs are bent, you will have a chance of getting optimal shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that a simple shift-lever adjustment would be easier, but that is progress for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T09:02:10.063" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4219" CreationDate="2011-06-13T15:28:46.700" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Let's narrow this down a bit...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical MTB for general purpose use: that means aluminium, rather than carbon fibre or beautiful chro-mo steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's see who actually makes their own bikes. Trek? They ask some people in Taiwan to give them a quote for their specifications and they then outsource the job to a.n.other factory. That is pretty much the same story with all of the leading 'brands' - they badge engineer, outsource and do anything but make their own stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, in the Taiwanese corner you have Giant. They make the stuff for the other people and make a fair few bikes of their own. They are the ones that have invested in how to hydroform aluminium into beautiful shapes so as to get maximum strength for given quantity of materials. Do you really think they save their better stuff for other people, e.g. the 'Treks and Colnagos' of this world?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a Giant suits you then get one. And no I do not work for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T15:28:46.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4219" CreationDate="2011-06-13T16:28:41.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most any frame is going to suit you just fine -- consider size, riding position, cost, and weight. Outside of that, one generally doesn't have to worry about frame failures or anything of that sort, with the exception of crazy carbon racing frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is the point where you go to a local bike shop and try a few of them out -- look at what's available, and choose one you like (that is, that you feel comfortable riding with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as things like welds, you really don't have to worry about the frame failing on you. Better welds are lighter, but that's really the extent of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T16:28:41.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-13T16:42:44.500" Score="13" ViewCount="23781" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speed isn't so much of a factor, obviously, but the lower the rolling resistance the less sweaty I am when I get there. Then there's flats to consider. Basically the tire has to never get them because I can't be late. So what size would you ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1642" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T01:05:22.723" Title="What is the narrowest tire you would use for commuting?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="18" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8374" CreationDate="2011-06-13T16:52:30.137" Score="6" ViewCount="13548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a new Kryptonite lock and am about to register the keys at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/&quot;&gt;www.kryptonitelock.com&lt;/a&gt;, but which number do I enter in the Key# box? Both? The keys each have two numbers, one &lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;XXXX&lt;/em&gt; and one &lt;strong&gt;SS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;XXXXX&lt;/em&gt;, and they're in a different order on the big key and little keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, I was surprised that the &quot;Personal Password (for security purposes)&quot; entry field on their site is in plaintext! Not very secure, especially for a lock/security company...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-14T01:34:40.467" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T00:39:51.780" Title="When registering keys, which number is the Kryptonite key#?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4223" CreationDate="2011-06-13T18:54:21.063" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my commuting needs, I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442586337&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302693841&quot;&gt;Continental Gatorskins&lt;/a&gt; 700x28c.  I also use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442497945&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302693707&quot;&gt;Mr Tuffy liners&lt;/a&gt; to help protect against punctures.  Using this combination, I haven't had a flat in 2 years.  Before going to this combination, I would get about 1 flat a month.  I travel about 14 km a day, 5 days a week, April to the end of November.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend that you leave enough time in your commute to change a flat if need be.  For me, this is only about 10 minutes. Your time may vary.  My job is such that it's not a big deal if I'm a few minutes late.  If your job requires you to be right on time, you may have to sacrifice being early on the off chance you do get a flat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, ensure that your tires do have enough air in them. If you use skinny tires, a lot of flats come from snakebite flats, caused by not enough air pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T18:54:21.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2011-06-13T20:15:15.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The website is really quite ropey: it doesn't use https either, and doesn't have key# validation. In the end I just registered it as four separate keys to cover each possibility:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;XXXXX&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;XXXX&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;XXXXX&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;XXXX&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;XXXX&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;SS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;XXXXX&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It accepted those fine. But then I checked the page where you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/CustomerService/OrderKeys.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;order replacements&lt;/a&gt;, and this page has a prefix dropdown containing &lt;strong&gt;SS&lt;/strong&gt; but no &lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt;. The SS resolves to &quot;KryptoLocks, Evolutions, Some Cables&quot;, which matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's all the prefixes from the Kryptonite ordering page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BB: New York Series&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CL: 1018 and 1218 Flex Cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CL-MODULUS: Modulus System&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CS: 815 Flex Cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DSC: Evolution 3000, NY Disc Locks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DT: Cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EN: Cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FH: Blanks Only Available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G: Cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GG: Professional Padlocks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HDL: Harley Detechable Lock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;KRY_G: Blanks Only Available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LD: Blanks Only Available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LH: Blanks Only Available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;LN: Cables (Short Key) or Lighted Cables (Long Key)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M: Cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NK: Evolution Series 4, Hardwire Key Cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PP: New York Fahgettaboudit U Lock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SS: KryptoLoks, Evolutions, Some Cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XL: EVXL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;YSC: Evolution 3000, NY Disck Locks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2011-06-14T10:22:41.573" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T10:22:41.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4223" CreationDate="2011-06-13T20:21:56.623" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire size is not a sure indicator of flat resistance.   As Kibbee notes, proper inflation pressure, road character, riding style.... All factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rarely get flats; can't remember when I had one last riding on the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they are as inevitable as anything else in life.   A good, durable 28mm tire is nice compromise between super-skinny &quot;racing&quot; tires and something you might put on a hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid tires with tiny little cuts or &quot;sipes&quot;, these tend to trap road debris and it will gradually work it's way through the casing.   Check pressures frequently, don't use super-light-weight tubes, etc. Watch the road!  Potholes, new pavement seams, broken glass and such from auto accidents (or car theft!) are all hazards that can generally be avoided.&#xA;And carry everything you need to fix a flat....Just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T20:21:56.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4234" CreationDate="2011-06-13T20:24:50.460" Score="2" ViewCount="4576" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any source in the Internet that allows me to calculate the vertical height between two arbitrary points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im thinking of something like the calculate route function of Google Maps. But instead of the trip length, I want to see the vertical height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any experience with such information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1316" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T22:22:32.767" Title="How to find the vertical height between any two points?" Tags="&lt;maps&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-06-14T01:41:50.293" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2401" CreationDate="2011-06-13T20:30:23.450" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thread on this subject on Bikeforums ran to pages and pages...   Some expressing utter horror that a bicyclist would feel the need to be armed, others ridiculing the whole idea, others with decent suggestions.&#xA;I'm a cop, I know that numbers of cyclists ride in conditions that are less than optimal.&#xA;We have had armed robberies and muggings of cyclists here in St. Louis, usually the bad guy is after the high-end bike.&#xA;As well, mountain bikers have been attacked by cougars in Western states.  Bicycling magazine detailed several such incidents while I subscribed.   Rare, but possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First up.  Having the weapon concealed on the bike is rather a bad idea if the intent of the bad guy is to steal the bike...  Your first indication of anything wrong might simply be a pedestrian knocking you over at an intersection.  Now, he's got your pistol too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, cycling gear isn't much designed for concealed-carry.  I have a little Taurus 2&quot; 38 special as an &quot;off-duty&quot; weapon.  Drops right into my jersey pocket.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sure, it &quot;prints&quot; there.  But then, I'm a cop...I don't care.&#xA;A reasonable idea is the &quot;fanny pack&quot; (I've just been informed that Aussies call them &quot;bum bags&quot;...).&#xA;As far as I know, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?source=ig&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;rlz=1G1GGLQ_ENUS285&amp;amp;q=fanny+pack+for+concealed+weapon&amp;amp;aq=1v&amp;amp;aqi=g1g-v1g-j3g-m1&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;oq=fanny+pack+for+conc&quot;&gt;you can still buy&lt;/a&gt; a fanny pack that is designed specifically to carry a firearm....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-11-04T14:00:25.293" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T14:00:25.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4217" CreationDate="2011-06-13T20:38:32.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hehe- I'm a fossil who still uses downtube friction shifters on my 1972-vintage Euro roadster.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But I do admit that as I get even yet older the allure of those nifty &quot;brifters&quot; is there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once learned, they are easy to use, forgiving of adjustment, and accommodate a wide variety of gear clusters with no problems.   I took my originally 5-speed rear end up to an 8-speed with no change at all to the shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted, indexed shifting does have its problems as well. I see many kids here at the university with multi-speed mountain bikes who get off and push the bike up hills, or struggling with a way-too-high gear.&#xA;I have stopped a few and asked why, and the answer is usually: &quot;It's too hard.&quot;  or more likely, &quot;It shifted OK when I got it, but now it doesn't work.&quot;&#xA;Kind of sad.&#xA;A well-adjusted gear-train is a joy to use, gears effortlessly leaping from cog to cog.&#xA;Usually, after an initial adjustment after new-cable stretch, shifters will stay in adjustment for a long time.&#xA;I'm surprised that riders who are not maintenance-prone don't use the hub-shifters more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastEditorUserId="25880" LastEditDate="2018-06-23T01:31:32.470" LastActivityDate="2018-06-23T01:31:32.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4228" CreationDate="2011-06-13T20:56:32.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it strictly have to be a web application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, with Google Earth you can simply hover your mouse over a location and it will display the altitude of that location at the bottom of your screen, which would let you subtract the 2 altitudes from each other to get the vertical difference between the 2 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can download Google Earth &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/earth/download/ge/agree.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T20:56:32.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4223" CreationDate="2011-06-13T21:05:40.897" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I prefer the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/1323&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres&lt;/a&gt; in a sensible width, 28 will do nicely or 1.5 (instead of 1.35) if using MTB or folding bike. To the pressure written on the sidewall, checked weekly for embedded glass and correct pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The likelihood of getting flats on properly maintained Marathon Plus is practically zero. On every other tyre brand that I have tried this has not been the case, even if they come with a guarantee. With the Marathon Plus you can go out of your way to deliberately go through glass, for all other tyres glass is akin to Kryptonite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The truth about the commute is that you learn every bump on the road but there is a lot of traffic and you have to be properly prepared to ride through the rough if you are to make good time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the commute it does take me 20 minutes to fix a flat. That is with correct tools and fresh tube. If I get two flats and have to stick on a patch (separate incident) it still takes 20 minutes. Notionally I can fix a tyre quicker than that but in practice this is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't leave 20 minutes earlier just in case I get a puncture, so long as it does not happen too often one can call ahead. Motorists in their cramped-yet-huge tin boxes are regularly a lot later than that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-06-14T19:03:07.860" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T19:03:07.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4223" CreationDate="2011-06-13T21:32:43.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm crazy but I use plain road (700/18s or 700/20s) tires. They are Kevlar reinforced though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T21:32:43.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4228" CreationDate="2011-06-13T22:22:32.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get an elevation profile of a route from using Google Maps and GPS Visualiser, as detailed on &lt;a href=&quot;http://ajy.co/blog/tech/google-maps-route-elevation-profiles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aaron James Young's blog&lt;/a&gt;. In summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create your route on Google Maps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab the link, and stick it into GPS Visualiser.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bingo! An elevation profile chart is created showing how the altitude changes over the route.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T22:22:32.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4223" CreationDate="2011-06-14T00:54:50.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike (2010 Kona Dr Dew) came with 700x32 Continental Contact tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had the bike for 3.5 months so far: i.e. about 160 hours of commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had 1 flat so far (front tire): caused by an impressively sharp, 3/4 inch nail through the tire. I don't know what tire could withstand that. When the bike tech replaced the tube for me (my first flat: I wanted to watch how he did it) I asked whether it had Slime in it and he said no: it's too heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't always bother to avoid bumps and cracks and small pot-holes: apparently the wheels can take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires are OK on snow, too, going a bit cautiously; though not on ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They say 85 psi on the side. I try to inflate them to 95..100 psi each weekend, and they measure at 80 psi by the next weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T03:06:28.517" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T03:06:28.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4237" CreationDate="2011-06-14T04:42:04.237" Score="10" ViewCount="3856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep finding a WSD version of bikes I'm interested in buying. What does WSD mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T16:33:46.477" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T16:33:46.477" Title="What does WSD mean relating to mountain bikes?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4236" CreationDate="2011-06-14T04:58:22.400" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case, it stands for &quot;Women Specific Design&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to bicycles, in some respects, especially the seat, clothing and shoes, women often have different needs than men. WSD bicycles or accessories address this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T04:58:22.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4223" CreationDate="2011-06-14T06:14:16.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a 23mm Continential GP4000S on the front. I love these tyres. They're super sticky and I've never had one slip out(!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the back I'm trialling 23mm Continental Gatorskins. They are cheaper and since the rear wears out so much faster than the front I'm hoping they'll still grip well but not cost me too much. So far I've been riding on it for about 3 weeks and have had no trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T06:14:16.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4242" CreationDate="2011-06-14T12:34:15.120" Score="2" ViewCount="1285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to an adventure race that has a MTB segment (~100km) where you get the map 5h before the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a bicycle map holder that is waterproof and can pivot (Its a team race and pivoting will come in handy when other looks at the map). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any advices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:46:23.937" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:46:23.937" Title="Recommendations for waterproof map carrier for an adventure race" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;maps&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4265" CreationDate="2011-06-14T12:59:03.160" Score="2" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cable adjusters always seem incredibly hard to turn, sometimes requiring the extra leverage of a wrench. I'm looking to replace them when I overhaul my bike and replace my current groupset. Does anyone have a particular favorite, or are they all basically the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since others have asked, this is a 700C road bike, and I'm looking to replace the inline adjusters, not the ones directly on the brakes and derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T18:16:14.990" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T22:30:45.857" Title="Cable adjuster recommendations" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4239" CreationDate="2011-06-14T13:17:28.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want the super-deluxe map-holder with extra-special swivel feature, here it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RYzD9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.klickfix.com/index.php?mod=1&amp;amp;lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.klickfix.com/index.php?mod=1&amp;amp;lang=en&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a Rixen and Kaul Freeliner and it detaches with their 'Klickfix' system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of map holders may not be best suited to going cross-country on an MTB. A lot will be rattling up front with the R+K Freeliner on those descents, there might also be a trail of broken plastic should you stack it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to consider the Zefal Doomap because it uses three bits of velcro to attach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zefal.com/zefal/produit.php?key=115100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.zefal.com/zefal/produit.php?key=115100&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDIYp.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Zefal Doomap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always twist the bars for that swivel feature you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T13:17:28.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4239" CreationDate="2011-06-14T14:58:12.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd forget the map holder, it's just extra bulk and complexity that you're better off without in an AR. Fold the map up small enough so you can just hold it in your hand while riding. It takes a little practice but you'll get used to it. No need to put it in a waterproof map case unless it's raining, and even then most AR maps (usually mytopo in my experience) you'll see are waterproof. If you plotted with a sharpie you shouldn't have a problem with your points washing off either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few benefits to this strategy, the main one is speed. Unless your checkpoint is right on the trail you'll have to spend time removing the map from the bike to carry it off the trail to go find your checkpoint, then spend more time putting it back when you're done. Sure it only takes a few seconds but those seconds add up over the course of the race. It's also tough to refold the map when it's inside a map case and clipped to your bike, probably not something you're going to be able to do on the move, so you'll have to stop for that as well. Holding the map allows you to do all of this on the go, easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also easier to share the map (as if that would ever happen in an AR). If you need an up close look at the map it's easy to bring it closer to your face and make sure you're not missing anything. The bike mounted holders can be tricky to read on rough terrain as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to bikewack you'll be glad you don't have a giant piece of metal on your handbars to get stuck on every branch and briar you pass by. You'll lose a lot of time there too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LyKeD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Splash Caddy&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.argear.com/splash-caddy-map-case.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.argear.com/splash-caddy-map-case.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep it strapped around my waist. If I need both hands free for some reason, I'll put the map in there. I also keep a locsack in there in case there's a deep river crossing or a downpour that makes me nervous about the map's integrity. I usually don't read the map from inside the case, I use it more as a pocket. I will use it for it's intended purpose on a paddling section when you need both hands to paddle, but that's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastEditorUserId="1166" LastEditDate="2011-06-14T15:05:16.173" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T15:05:16.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4267" CreationDate="2011-06-14T15:20:15.313" Score="5" ViewCount="2473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm moving my Shimano Hollowtech II XT crankset and bottom bracket over from a bike with 73mm bottom bracket to a 68mm bike. The only problem is that I only have 1 spacer and now I need 3 bottom bracket spacers.  Do Shimano external bottom brackets have a unique spacer or can I just use any bottom bracket spacers of the correct diameter and thickness? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-14T15:31:31.687" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T07:55:02.347" Title="Are Shimano Hollowtech II bottom bracket spacers unique?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4236" CreationDate="2011-06-14T20:03:44.803" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1165/posipiet&quot;&gt;@popiset&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4236/what-does-wsd-mean-relating-to-mountain-bikes/4237#4237&quot;&gt;said&lt;/a&gt;, it stands for &quot;Women's Specific Design&quot; and is Trek's marketing term for a bicycle designed from the outset for a woman. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/collections/womens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek's Women's Page&lt;/a&gt; for the specifics within that brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the big bicycle manufacturers have bicycles aimed specifically at women, sometimes there's an obvious scheme like Trek's where they tack on a &quot;women's&quot; designation, sometimes it's more subtle (for instance, the &quot;Ruby&quot; is the women's version of Specialized's &quot;Roubaix&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most are based around some assumptions about women that aren't necessarily true (or that can be just as true for men, especially smaller men). In other words, there are women that will fit better on a &quot;men's&quot; frame, and there are men that will fit better on a &quot;women's&quot; frame. It's vastly more important that the frame fit the rider than that the manufacturer's concept of gender fit the gender of the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, the general assumptions about women that bicycle manufacturers tend to use when designing the frames are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smaller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lighter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;narrower shoulders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shorter arms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shorter torso&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;longer legs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The women specific stuff can include things such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shorter distance between seat and handlebars (shorter stem and/or shorter top-tube), based on assumption of shorter torso/longer legs (compared to same height man). A shorter top tube affects the frame geometry greatly, so often there will be other changes (such as head tube angle and size, seat tube angle) related to this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wider seat and different cutout shape (the bones in your pelvis that you sit on are different between the genders, and obviously the other bits are different)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;narrower handlebars (on road bikes maybe also smaller in other ways) for narrower shoulders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brakes and shifters sized for smaller hands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shorter cranks and different gearing to accomodate more &quot;spinning&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frame just generally made for a lighter rider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lower top tube. I guess because it's sorta traditional. (not on the more &quot;serious&quot; women's bikes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different frame color choices and/or &quot;feminine&quot; detailing in the paint job&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact details vary from bike manufacturer to bike manufacturer and model to model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T20:16:26.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4252" CreationDate="2011-06-14T22:01:14.377" Score="4" ViewCount="60590" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I thought I would sort out my wheel bearings (after asking a few questions here first).  Did the front without much of a problem, (reused the existing bearings at the moment, had not got round to going to the LBS to get new ones).  I tried to do the rear wheel tonight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I got the wheel off, took the quick release out.  undid one side of the axle (disk brake side I believe), took out the bearings etc.  I noticed that a few of the bearings from the cassette side had fallen out while taking the other side off. I then used the chain whip and other bit thing (who's name I can not remember) to eventually undo the cassette (was on real tight).  Took everything apart (trying to remember the order, even placing things in rows of where it came from) and cleaned it all up.  Went to put it back together again and I can not figure out at all (not with any confidence) how the bearings go into the cassette side under the locking nut (think its called that, the bit that comes off with the chain whip and tool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are all the bits and the wheel.  Think I may have to admit defeat and go the LBS to get it sorted but they had a 5 or so day wait.  I am hoping someone might be able to guide me in the right direction to get this working again please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xGPlS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CDPcb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone else has this problem here is a picture of the final way I assembled it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/844zG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="1312" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T18:07:05.907" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T21:33:53.760" Title="how to reassemble mountain bike rear wheel hub and bearings" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2011-06-14T22:06:03.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good derailleur will change smoothly while under heavy load, i.e. while you are still pedaling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will also be capable of upgrading or changing the cassette, (the bundle of cogs at the rear) for different gear ratios and will have more options to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same applies to the crank-set i.e the 2 or three big cogs at the pedal end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1651" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T23:45:57.200" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T23:45:57.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4258" CreationDate="2011-06-14T22:49:13.163" Score="3" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; How is infrastructure for bicyclists designed, and how does it evolve? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related questions to prompt more detailed answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When is the right time to build bicycle roads?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is the budget evaluated for new bicycle facilities? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there some way to verify the budgeting premises for bicycle projects?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How are different facilities evaluated? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there stages which a city goes through to get a superb bicycle infrastructure?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer term considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suppose the fundamental city plan for cargos and cars is to produce a smooth flow of traffic. Is it easier to plan long-term bicycle road investments together with other roads?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cannot take every point into account at the start, so how do we make improvements to existing facilities?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do we make sure progress doesn't stop or reverse?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a way to avoid only reactive fixes (something gets improved only after fatal accident)? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the improvement chaotic or a linear progression?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2018-04-15T22:06:53.930" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T22:06:53.930" Title="How is infrastructure for bicyclists designed, and how does it evolve?" Tags="&lt;road&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4249" CreationDate="2011-06-14T23:52:03.360" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not necessary, it will probably be easier to understand what is happening if you lift the cassette off. The ring at the front of your photo (C) is the nut that holds the cassette on, so right now you should be able to lift the cogs off the freewheel. That will leave you with the splined body of the freewheel exposed and you'll have one less distraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/01DNf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bicycle rear wheel bearing parts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parts labelled are :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: cone locknut (the last thing to go on)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B: seal, probably from the drive side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C: cassette nut/lockring that holds the cassette together and onto the freewheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D: spacer/washer that goes between A and E&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E: cone with seal attached&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;F: seal from the axle and cone labelled H&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G: seal from the non-drive side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;H: axle with cone attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I: there is no I&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;J: washer. I have no idea where this goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;K: quick release axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring the bearings for a minute, the order things go back in from the non-drive side (underneath, in the photo) of the wheel is likely to be: Put the seal F back on H from the long side - it probably should not go all the way to the washer. Push H up into the wheel screw E down onto it then add D, screw A down and lock it off. Push G over the non-drive side cone assembly to seal that side. Push B into the drive side if it fits (I'm not sure it will, I haven't seen a seal like that or in there for a very long time). Put the cassette cogs back on, then add C to lock them in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before doing this you will have cleaned the old grease off the cones in the hub (careful with solvents, you don't want to wash the grease out of the rest of the freewheel), then put in new grease and pushed new bearings into it (the grease holds the bearings in place while you reassemble).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T23:52:03.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2011-06-15T00:14:22.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The questioner is asking how does a town/city get its bicycle infrastructure. As I write I can feel the moderators cursor hanging over the 'close' button, so I will be brief...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wikipedia page is a good place to start:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle-friendly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle-friendly&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'carbusters.org' site might also be of interest to the questioner, particularly the back issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://carbusters.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://carbusters.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of interest is the current situation in London where the old 'New Labour' government barked on about yet more public transport with little consideration for the wonderful bicycle, as if everyone really wants to travel by bus. This has changed with the 'Conservative' Mayor who really does enjoy cycling, and not just for the cameras. Allegedly London is to get 'bike motorways'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I do think that there is scope on this site for such questions because cycling is not just about the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T00:14:22.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4326" CreationDate="2011-06-15T00:52:22.107" Score="37" ViewCount="48565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I helped a friend install a new chain on her road bike, and for the first time read the instructions for installing one. It seems to claim that there's a forward direction, and that it actually makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if that's actually true? My LBS (which I love dearly) just replaced my chain, and I thought it was installed it backwards. The new chain, if it makes a difference, is a Dura-Ace, 10 speed, CN-7801.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter? Do I care enough to reinstall it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastEditorUserId="563" LastEditDate="2011-06-18T17:51:26.050" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T15:30:23.700" Title="Does the chain direction make a difference?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4199" CreationDate="2011-06-15T01:42:58.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grease. You want a lubricant that will stick around. WD40 is a degreaser and is designed to penetrate, lubricate then evaporate. Which is great for removing something that's stuck. But for a kickstand you want it to keep working for a long time. So, grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T01:42:58.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4316" CreationDate="2011-06-15T03:44:12.447" Score="4" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I let all the air out of  a used Fox RP23 shock (which I haven't ridden yet) to remove it from a frame, and a small amount of oil sprayed out along with the air. Is this normal or is my shock in need of repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-27T04:44:20.483" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T04:44:20.483" Title="Is my Fox RP23 Rear Shock blown?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2011-06-15T05:00:20.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;manufacturers of bike components (there aren't that many) universally put up their line in &quot;groups&quot;.&#xA;These go from the cheapest, which often have no name at all, to the most expensive.&#xA;Shimano's top-of-the-line for road bikes is &quot;Dura-Ace&quot;, for instance.  With &quot;Ultegra&quot; below that, and then &quot;105&quot;, and so on.&#xA;Better components are lighter, often rebuildable, and usually operate in a very &quot;slick&quot; manner.&#xA;Often the difference is hardly perceptible... And in some cases the &quot;better&quot; components are also more complicated and more likely to be in need of constant adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T05:00:20.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2011-06-15T05:51:20.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most places the answer to your main question is &quot;very bureaucratically&quot;, usually involving multiple government departments and a lot of competing interests. It's a part of town planning, which is itself contentious in most places. Even without the sort of natural input that, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.christchurchquakemap.co.nz/largest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Christchurch&lt;/a&gt; is currently experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is that even when national governments are involved detailed planning tends to be done at a very local level. This contrasts with major roads where there is usually a government department who is responsible for them. So national funding ends up in the hands of local government who design, build and maintain bicycle facilities in their area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally the work is overseen by someone with both qualifications and experience in designing good cycle facilities, with public involvement during the scoping and design stages. This is when cycling organisations can be very influential both in terms of what route is chosen and the detailed design that can make it a stunning success or a miserable failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Budget works two ways. The &quot;how much do we have to spend&quot; is usually a political question and is influenced primarily by lobbying your government representatives. The &quot;how much does it cost&quot; is in theory an engineering question, but is often determined by political considerations, specifically the &quot;it must be able to support heavy maintenance vehicles&quot; requirement that can mean a cycle facility costs the same as a standard roadway instead of less than 1/4 as much. Local government and roading engineers are usually very keen on this for two reasons: it gives them a &quot;free&quot; access route (they don't pay for it, cyclists do), and it pushes up the apparent cost of cycle facilities (so they have to deal with fewer of them per dollar in the budget). In some situations this does work the other way, where the builders go &quot;cycleways are cheap, let's put them everywhere&quot;. Smart property developers do this as they can still call them roads (and they look like roads on the plans), but they're cheap to build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evaluation is complex because there are many different ways a cycle facility can be evaluated. From how good it is to ride on, to accident rates or population health, to maintenance costs, to political benefit (or cost), just about everyone will have their own way to evaluate a cycle facility. This is a contentious issue that my local &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_User_Group&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BUG&lt;/a&gt; addresses with our local council almost every year. Even though we have a cycling team in the council infrastructure department we have to fight to keep them as well as maintain existing facilities and build new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The broad progression that I'm used to is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no cycle facilities. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;national government makes funds available to local councils for cycle facilities, and local government wants those funds. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they paint &quot;cycle facilities&quot; onto existing roads and build a few recreational facilities to get that money. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;local cyclists are pressing for better facilities. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eventually council appoint a part-time &quot;cyclist appeasement officer&quot; to deal with them, who also has a budget. This gets spent on making cyclists more visible, usually by printing maps of the facilities and flyers saying how good cycling is. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over time the budget increases and the focus changes to off-road facilities that actually go places. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a council employee in the road-making department is designated as something to do with bicycles (&quot;cycle facilities coordinator&quot; or similar), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eventually this office gets onto the list of &quot;people who have to be consulted before road changes happen&quot;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Around this time cycling becomes something that politicians mention during elections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;over time politicians settle more onto the pro-cycling side. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a mayor/governor who is a cyclist is elected and suddenly a key question for every single transport project becomes &quot;how does this help cyclists?&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over time this becomes the dominant paradigm across the nation, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eventually Dutch is legislated as one of the national languages.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(note that places move both up and down the list over time - it's not all win-win-win)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few local examples. This is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moreland.vic.gov.au/parking-roads-and-transport/sustainable-transport/information-about-morelands-transport-strategy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my councils transport page&lt;/a&gt; featuring bicycles and pedestrians with their own headings. If you read the strategy you can see that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.morelandbug.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;local BUG&lt;/a&gt; had some effect. Also note the &quot;sustainable transport&quot; menu of the left of that page. In Sydney where I used to live they now have a &quot;Manager, Cycling Strategy&quot; and a heap of content on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/AboutSydney/ParkingAndTransport/Cycling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their web site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T22:05:14.220" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T22:05:14.220" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2011-06-15T10:25:19.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fareham.gov.uk/pdf/planning/cyclestrategy.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cycling Strategy&lt;/a&gt; for my local town, the intended evolution of infrastructure is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ensure that alterations to the&#xA;highway network are designed to&#xA;increase utility for cyclists or, at&#xA;the very least, to not degrade the&#xA;cycling environment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enhance routes to schools and town&#xA;and local centres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ensure that cycle facilities are&#xA;considered in all new development&#xA;proposals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a network of roads, dedicated routes&#xA;and facilities throughout the Borough&#xA;which enable cycling to be a safe,&#xA;attractive and enjoyable mode of&#xA;transport&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T10:25:19.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2011-06-15T14:00:43.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;do cycle facilities piggyback on roads for autos?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Toronto the main types of bike route are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bike lanes and/or 'shareways' painted on a few of the second-largest roads: so that a few of the major roads have bike lanes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Recommended (mapped and sign posted) bike routes through minor, low-traffic, residential streets (which have lots of stop signs but little car traffic)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from those there are mixed bike/pedestrian paths, paved but forbidden to motor vehicles - through parks, along rivers, and along the lake shore ... and, in one place, along a railway line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;non-car-related bicycle facilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some cooperation with rail. There's a railway system that brings commuters from nearby towns and suburbs into the city. The most important, central station is in the downtown core. One of the more recent bits of bike infrastructure is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toronto.ca/cycling/bicycle-station/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike storage room in the central rail station&lt;/a&gt;, intended presumably to let commuters store their bikes there: to live outside the city, take the (crowded during rush-hour) train without their bikes, and to have their bikes when they arrive (to get from the station to wherever they work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toronto.ca/cycling/transit/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;public transport&lt;/a&gt; within Toronto, you're not allowed to take a bike on the subway during rush-hour; but the buses (all the buses, I think) have convenient bike racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(See also bike paths, mentioned above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how does it happen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to Toronto's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toronto.ca/cycling/bikeplan/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;published bike plan&lt;/a&gt;: including the plan, the consultation proess, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are disputes in city council (published in the local papers) about whether to have a bike lane on one particular street in the downtown core: some people would prefer to reserve it for a higher flow of cars. It seems to me that there are enough bike routes everywhere except in the downtown core, where there are few or none (enough for me, though the majority of other people don't cycle, perhaps partly because they find it too scary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW there are occasionally similar disputes (which local residents and apparently especially local shop-keepers get involved with) on various other streets, about routing tram lines, and about whether to allow on-street parking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current mayor is said to be anti- or at least not pro-bike, but isn't going to remove the controversial bike lanes. There have been bikes in Toronto for much longer than there has been a bike plan (the plan is recent as far as I know: someone must have said, &quot;we need a plan&quot;). I think the current plan pre-dates the current mayor, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T12:19:46.120" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T12:19:46.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2933" CreationDate="2011-06-15T15:35:14.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bargainboards.co.uk/P/MyCoal-Foot-Warmers%281252%29.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;foot-warmers&lt;/a&gt;, they use a chemical reaction to create heat. You can usually find them in shops that sell hillwalking or skiing equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T15:35:14.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2011-06-15T15:44:37.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;How is bicycle infrastructure designed and how does it evolve?&quot;?  Well, as the other answerers have suggested, the answer is &quot;that depends.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I worked for the Bureau of Land Management, here in the U.S., I did recreation management for a broad scattering of federal public lands. Some of these lands were adjacent to cities. In the cases where we built bicycle infrastrucutre, it was mostly in reaction to noisy demand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since dispersed recreation is more difficult for agencies to quantify and measure than straight-up vehicle traffic, accident rates, levels of congestion, or visitation at a specific site, there is a bit of guesswork involved. Ideally, agencies ask for public involvement--in the form of town meetings, or public planning meetings and open houses--and respond to public input.  If the people ask for bicycle infrastructure, we give it to them. Or, if agencies managing lands adjacent to ours build bicycle infrastructure, we may build similar infrastructure to create connectivity (in the instance of &quot;money from heaven&quot;, the American Reinvestment and Recovery Act, for instance).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point here is this. Those who demanded bicycle infrastructure in the areas around Coloma, California, may not have been the majority of residents or even the majority of attendees at our open-houses. Those who demanded bicycle infrastructure, though, CONSISTENTLY attended the meetings and CONSISTENTLY voiced their opinions--both loudly and coherently. They came to the meetings with a vision and the broad outlines of a plan. They left the last meeting with a committment from my agency to flesh out the plan and build the bike paths.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did not build bike trails as a whim or just to use up some money. We built them to satisfy a small but vocal constituency that responded effectively to all of its detractors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T15:44:37.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3366" CreationDate="2011-06-15T16:37:36.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbbike.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bbbike.org&lt;/a&gt;, a cycle route planner based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openstreetmap.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OpenStreetMap&lt;/a&gt; data that I only discovered recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than standard Google routing (that in some countries doesn't provide detailed settings for cyclists), it allows to set precise preferences for the planning, for example only residential roads, or roads suitable for road bikes. After calculating the route, it returns the average run time, directions, a simple height profile, an interactive map and downloadable tracks in various formats that can be imported into Google Earth. From there you can follow &lt;em&gt;Czechnology's&lt;/em&gt; answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1072" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T16:37:36.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4270" CreationDate="2011-06-15T18:50:35.603" Score="2" ViewCount="2851" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was trying to replace my rear bearings and got stuck, (see question below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4249/how-to-reassemble-mountain-bike-rear-wheel-hub-and-bearings&quot;&gt;how to reassemble mountain bike rear wheel hub and bearings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this I felt confident to go ahead.  Was putting it back together with my son and we had it most of it back together (no cassette on it yet).  We put the quick release through the axle and span it, all seemed nice.  I held the freewheel hub bit and he span the wheel (slowly) and it made the normal clicking noise as it rotated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we tighted the bits and went to put the cassette back on.  After tightening the cassette locking nut we noticed that it was not rotating.  Tried loosing the cone hubs, nothing, tried taking everything off but still nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if I have somehow killed the wheel or there is something I need to do to get it rotating again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any and all advice on how to get this working / rotating correctly again would be greatfully received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T11:29:22.643" Title="mountain bike freewheel hub stopped rotating" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4240" CreationDate="2011-06-15T22:30:45.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't ever seen an inline adjuster gummed up that badly. What normally makes any cable adjuster hard to turn is the cable outer jamming into the adjuster so that turning the adjuster just twists the cable outer. I add a bit of my universal tool (grease-based chain lube :) to where the outer enters the adjuster and give it a couple of seconds to penetrate before having another go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I suggest is taking them off the bike, taking them apart and greasing them. Grease both the threaded part and the cable entry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mlogp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inline barrel adjuster&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this pic you have the turning part in a shiny silver, and almost hidden inside it is the stationary part that's a darker colour. I would unscrew those parts and grease the thread, then also put grease in the end of the rotating part - into the opening at the bottom of the left hand part above. That way the end of the cable outer that goes into there can slip easily when you turn the silver part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T22:30:45.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4268" CreationDate="2011-06-15T22:59:31.257" Score="4" ViewCount="2585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bike commute to work, but for other trips where I don't want to arrive covered in sweat and/or would take longer than 30 minutes each way, I generally have to drive. I'd like to be able to get anywhere in my city without a car. My city (Austin) has OK but not great public transit and the buses only hold two bikes (and are always full). We also have Car2Go, but there isn't always one nearby. I figure that if I had a folding bike, I could always get to one or the other fairly quickly and make most trips around town 30 minutes or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what folding bike would you recommend for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occasional use. 5-10 times per month.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short trips. 1.5 miles or less each way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some hills, but nothing too steep.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very compact size and easy transport. I need to be able to take it on a bus and fit it in a Smart Car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT to add: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm 6'3&quot;, about 200lbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I generally would have 10lbs+ of gear with me. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll spend over $500 if necessary, but looking for the cheapest bike that will get the job done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="63" LastEditorUserId="2066" LastEditDate="2012-05-05T07:31:37.460" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T21:47:06.313" Title="Recommended Folding Bike for Hybrid Commuting? (Bus/Car + Bike)" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;public-transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-12-18T19:27:35.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4243" CreationDate="2011-06-15T23:00:52.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Installing_HollowTech_II_Bottom_Brackets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; implies there's no difference, and looking at what the spacers do I agree. Since they're a purely passive component that just fills up space, it's only the physical size that counts. Even with an extra 5mm of spacer I suspect you'll be ok, but I would be somewhat concerned if you had to put all the spacers on one side to maintain chain alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.enduroforkseals.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/hollowtech2a.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this pdf&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Hollowtech_II_Bottom_Brackets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; match my experience of those BBs. They're not great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T07:55:02.347" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T07:55:02.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4266" CreationDate="2011-06-15T23:22:41.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those requirements I would be tempted to get a scooter. Our Jeff has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.codinghorror.com/blog/2011/06/geek-transportation-systems.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog post up on that topic&lt;/a&gt;. For 1.5 miles a scooter is a useful compromise in the direction of &quot;tiny but usable&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise if you want to try a folding bike just about anything cheap will do. This question compares &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4010/choosing-a-foldable-20-bike-schwinn-s2280-vs-citizen-bike-miami&quot;&gt;two bikes at about $US200 each&lt;/a&gt;. For 2 mile trips it's not too important, and spending a lot of money for something that is better for other situations doesn't really help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for me, I'd rather pay a little more and get something that will be more versatile and last longer. For $300-$400 you can get an actual bicycle that fold and can be ridden (rather than a bicycle shaped object). Brands like Dahon are reasonable and cover the range from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dahon.com/bikes/2011/boardwalk-d7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quite cheap&lt;/a&gt; ($US490) to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dahon.com/bikes/2011/jetstream-ex&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slightly insane&lt;/a&gt; ($US2700+) and they're available worldwide (There are cheaper Dahons but they don't seem to be on that website - there's a single speed Boardwalk, but you have hills so it probably won't work). Further up the cost scale you get Brompton (folds small) and Birdy (rides well) as well as others. But $1000+, so hard to justify for your needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the 20&quot; wheel folding bikes go small enough to get them into the luggage space of a small car, but you may find that you can't get anything else in there at the same time. Smaller wheels (usually 16&quot;) generally mean the bike folds smaller but suspension becomes even more important. But again, not for a couple of miles each way. I suggest taking your car along to a shop that stocks a few folding bikes and having a play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: given your size I doubt a cheap bike will last very long. They're just not built for it. I'm only 185cm/90kg and most folding bikes feel pretty flimsy to me. I suspect the Dahon Boardwalk D7 I linked to before is the least worst option under $500. To get really rigid at your size you'd need something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;ved=0CEMQFjAA&amp;amp;url=http://www.bikefriday.com/&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=Bike%20Friday&amp;amp;ei=72L5Te2FFYSGuQOvm4ypAw&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHE7kclETjw0uRl79MgLo_3iFsBCA&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bike Friday&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airnimal.eu/News/Home.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Airnimal&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T01:58:15.613" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4266" CreationDate="2011-06-16T08:47:19.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a Dahon Vitesse. This is the 7 speed model with aluminium frame. This is a personal recommendation as I have been riding mine for years, I bought it for one particularly tricky commute and have not stopped riding it since. Folding time is 10-20 seconds depending on urgency, I too am 6'3&quot; which means it is easy to get the height right for the seat as that means it is on the max-height mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only weak point on mine was the tyres, budget for getting them too. There are a few problems with the hinges on mine, these problems have been resolved on present-day models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is tempting to get the more expensive models, however, in practice, anything extra, e.g. 27 gears, gets in the way of the simple elegance of the basic Vitesse model. You do not need more than seven speeds on the bike, and that should include a good enough range for your cycling cadence/terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding a Dahon folder is like being on a magic carpet - you don't have a top tube or a big wheel sticking out in front of you. The kickstand is handy as are the mudguards. I have not used the rack much but it is there for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Brompton bikes are more popular in the UK yet they are inferior to the basic Dahon bike for many reasons, Brompton also do not have the best patents for hinges etc. - Dahon do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A particular treat of the Dahon on descents is to be able to put the feet up on the frame - 'step thru' is great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be prepared to ride in-the-saddle rather than out. You will get used to that, although riding out the saddle is possible some weariness of opening hinges is advised. 'Safety catches on' took me a while to learn but I don't think you can have them off on newer models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did also look at the Mezzo (how do you fold it?) and the Giant Halfway (what no big gears) and I looked past the brand when it comes to the Brompton efforts. All considered the Dahon came out top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T08:47:19.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4264" CreationDate="2011-06-16T10:24:37.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I think you have somehow managed to tighten the outer bearing cup that is part of the freehub body. It has two notches on either side, take the cassette off and see if you can knock the notches back to let the freehub spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a Shimano hub you might want to also consider putting a new freehub body on there. These are LBS stocked parts albeit not an everyday request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearings in the freehub can survive a bit of abuse, so long as you don't get too much dirt in there so consider DiY and, if that fails, pop a new freehub body on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T10:24:37.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4254" CreationDate="2011-06-16T11:02:53.063" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikewebsite.com/chain.htm&quot;&gt;Bicycle Repair Guide&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One- and three-speed bikes use&#xA;  1/8-inch wide chain, which use master&#xA;  links. There is one master link per&#xA;  bike chain. These snap on and off&#xA;  easily. There are two types of master&#xA;  links. Two-piece master links are&#xA;  opened by loosening the chain, then&#xA;  gently bending the link toward the&#xA;  outside, so the outer plate of the&#xA;  link is free to be lifted off.&#xA;  Three-piece master links have a clip&#xA;  that slides to one side and then lifts&#xA;  off. &lt;strong&gt;When reinstalling three-piece&#xA;  links, install the clip with the open&#xA;  end facing away from the direction of&#xA;  rotation, so that friction between the&#xA;  bike chain and clothing, chainguard,&#xA;  etc, will not accidentally remove it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also covered on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-471533.html&quot;&gt;Bike Forums&lt;/a&gt;, here's one of the answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Chain direction matters if the chain&#xA;  is worn. If you remove and soak your&#xA;  chain regularly (which, by the way, is&#xA;  not recommended, regardless of how&#xA;  easy it is to remove the chain), then&#xA;  you won't have a problem regardless of&#xA;  orientation of chain. If you remove a&#xA;  well worn chain and install it in the&#xA;  reverse direction, you'll end up with&#xA;  a mysterious skip in your drivetrain.&#xA;  Reverse your chain to see if that's&#xA;  the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are two exceptions - if the&#xA;  chain has an &quot;inside&quot;, i.e. points to&#xA;  the cogs, and &quot;outside&quot;, i.e. never&#xA;  contacts cogs, except the pulley of&#xA;  the rear derailleur. If you have such&#xA;  a chain, you'll need to make sure that&#xA;  the inside is inside. You can still&#xA;  reverse its direction though, unless&#xA;  it is also directional, i.e there is a&#xA;  left and a right (the second&#xA;  exception).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T11:02:53.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4264" CreationDate="2011-06-16T11:29:22.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a cassette and not a freewheel you might have tightened down the lock ring to much and that could be why it is not spinning. What you want to achieve, if you don't have a torque wrench, is getting the cassette snug and having it spin freely. You will know when it can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is either that or your cone is too tight on the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T11:29:22.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-16T11:35:32.520" Score="4" ViewCount="5396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 6 stripped spoke nipples on my rear wheel. Last night I took the tire off, took the, for lack of a better word, rim strip off, and started to try to unscrew the nipple from the rim. Before I knew it I did more damage then good. Is there a special tool to remove spoke nipples that I am not seeing? What is the best tool for removing it if I can't get a screwdriver to work? I tried dropping some grease inside to help me take it out, but that did little if anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T01:44:12.217" Title="How to replace stripped spoke nipples?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4292" CreationDate="2011-06-16T12:07:06.807" Score="3" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my eye on the Garmin 800. It looks fantastic, but alas I can't afford it right now. &#xA;I would like a gps / cycle computer that would work well in Europe with maps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options? I want something I can couple with wheel sensors for speed (better accuracy). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next month I intend to cycle through Czech Republic and Slovakia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T11:20:12.133" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T11:20:12.133" Title="Affordable GPS with maps?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4291" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:04:22.447" Score="8" ViewCount="10840" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, what is the widest tyre that you can get away with, on a standard road bike (with dual pivot brakes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I have a Campagnolo Eurus wheelset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastEditorUserId="1620" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T15:01:08.650" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T21:54:02.013" Title="What is the widest tyre that you can get away with, on a standard road bike?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4336" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:33:41.107" Score="5" ViewCount="1878" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a 2 part question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have concerns over the general accuracy of a GPS device to calculate speed. Mainly because I will be using the device in Eastern Europe, and not sure on the accuracy of the coverage. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because of this concern I was thinking of pairing an android based gps app to wireless sensors mounted on the wheel, much like you would do with a Garmin 800. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the following reply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is my concern justified, or will a phone based GPS be accurate enough to give me a realistic speed indication?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If my concerns are justified, can you recommend some ways to pair the wheel sensors with apps?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What general features should I look for in a phone to bring out the best of it for use as a cycle computer / gps. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2011-06-19T13:20:05.273" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T15:17:03.693" Title="Is it possible to pair wheel sensors with an Android phone GPS?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;android&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4275" CreationDate="2011-06-16T15:06:43.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends entirely on your frame and your brakes. On a racing frame, you likely won't get over a 25, and some won't fit anything larger than 23s. On a commuter frame with fenders, perhaps 28. Without fenders on something like a Surly, you can easily handle 32s. Assuming your brake calipers can reach around the increased tire width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T15:06:43.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4275" CreationDate="2011-06-16T15:08:37.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes are also set up for wider tires, and are often equipped with cantilever brakes to accommodate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got 28s on my old Euro roadster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T15:08:37.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4279" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T15:36:50.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bicycle mechanism that moves the chain out and up, allowing it to shift to different cogs. There are two classifications of derailleur: front and rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front derailleur is used to adjust, in large jumps, your pedal cadence from very easy to very hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear derailleur adjusts your pedal cadence in smaller jumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1660" LastEditorUserId="1660" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T20:29:20.927" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T20:29:20.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4280" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T15:36:50.893" Score="0" Body="Mechanism to move the chain from one sprocket to another." OwnerUserId="1660" LastEditorUserId="1660" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T20:29:03.530" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T20:29:03.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4282" CreationDate="2011-06-16T15:43:44.957" Score="26" ViewCount="46815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that using my road bike with a fluid trainer will wear out the back tire more quickly than regular road riding, but does it have the potential to actually damage my bike (frame, gearing)? While not a super expensive machine, I do like it quite a bit and it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; my only bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While on the trainer, I notice (1) every little noise from the drivetrain and (2) some flexing of the (aluminum) frame as I pedal. It's quite possible that these things happen on the road, but it's too loud to hear them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I think about getting a trainer-only bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T13:35:32.560" Title="Can using a trainer damage my bicycle?" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2011-06-16T17:53:40.670" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only significant frame damage I can think of from this is your skewers -- the little nubs that grab on to the skewer and hold your bike inside the trainer have a tendency to scratch the hell out of the skewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as flexing goes, all frames flex. The only time I would be worried about it would be if there was a grinding noise coming out of the crank -- but that wouldn't be caused by your trainer, that would just be impending crank failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and rather than getting a trainer only bike, you should probably just get a stationary bike (if you do decide to go that route). They're typically much smaller because they don't have to have two wheels, and because they're designed for that use from the beginning they're typically much more stable when riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T17:53:40.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4266" CreationDate="2011-06-16T19:50:14.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1975 Raleigh Twenty meets all of your criteria except &quot;very compact&quot;.  The Twenty is a folder--the frame folds in half--though many modern folders get much more compact.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upside of the old used Raleigh is that they are much more inexpensive than the best modern folders and still are quite rugged bikes.  Raleigh Folders are known for their durability.  Check out Sheldon Brown's site about these bikes:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh-twenty.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh-twenty.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My partner and I have two of these.  We ride other bikes most places but bring the old Raleighs out when we must take them on transit during busy periods.  I must say, they've been one of the better used bike purchases we've made.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were made as three-speed IGH bikes with rear cargo racks--I usually roll with panniers on mine.  They're great for short trips, though I have done a twelve-mile commute on mine several times with no problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find one of these on CL or Ebay for $150-300 in pretty good condition.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T19:50:14.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4293" CreationDate="2011-06-16T20:16:34.423" Score="12" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about buying a CO2 tyre inflater. I have never used one before and have 3 questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do they have enough pressure to get a road tyre up to full pressure (~100psi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you use a cartridge, do you have to use the entire cartridge at once? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any common cartridge standards? i.e. am a better off going with a particular brand because it is compatible with more brands of cartridges.. or are they all happy to mix and match?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T20:57:00.563" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T03:45:55.160" Title="Buying a CO2 tyre inflater" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pump&gt;&lt;co2&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4286" CreationDate="2011-06-16T20:28:30.800" Score="12" ViewCount="1113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my bike to run errands on the weekends - stopping for soap and shampoo at the drug-store, a loaf a bread at the grocery store, stopping for lunch, etc. The issue is I have to haul my previous purchases around with me in each store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some kind of &quot;trunk&quot; that I can add to my bike in which I can secure/lock/protect my purchases? I've seen such things on scooters, but is there something for a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T21:09:08.787" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:21:36.107" Title="Secure Storage for Running Errands" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2011-06-16T20:47:01.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Locking trunk bags are available, but I really don't think they're the best solution. There aren't many of them, which means you don't have much of a choice of features. By definition, these are attached permanently to your rear rack, and if someone steals the bicycle, the locking trunk rack is theirs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have many options; here are the common types of cargo systems for bicycles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Baskets:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have many options for carrying cargo on a bike. For the kinds of items you describe, by far the most convenient carrying system is a wire basket. You can get ones that install on your front handlebars or on your rear rack, depending on personal preference or what kind of bike you have (and if you have racks already). You can also get a milk crate or a box and attach it to your rear rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a basket is attached to the bike, you don't need to worry about unhooking it from the bike when you lock the bike up. A cargo net is advisable with a basket, so that items stay put. However, they do make the bike a little bit more unwieldy and can rattle a bit. Also, small items can fall out, and contents are exposed to the elements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Security: None, unless you carry everything along. (Not what you're looking for.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A basket on a commuter bike:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/5602884943/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Mandolin in a Basket by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5187/5602884943_0a76a0d6b7_m.jpg&quot; width=&quot;240&quot; height=&quot;240&quot; alt=&quot;Mandolin in a Basket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Backpacks:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next most convenient way to carry small amounts of cargo is with a simple backpack. The bike is unencumbered with racks or baskets or panniers, but your weight is up high (unbalancing you a bit) and your back can get sweaty. However, a backpack is useful for many things other than bike riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the ultimate in security, but has the disadvantage that you need to carry it around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Panniers:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are bags designed to hook to the side of a bike's rear rack. Panniers are more suitable for longer trips, and can be expensive and a little fiddly. You can't really leave them on the bike when locking it up. These would be overkill for your situation, unless you ride in the rain a lot and need to keep things dry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Security is nonexistent. If somebody wants these, they're theirs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A bike with front and rear panniers:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2459688521/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;100_7014.JPG by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3175/2459688521_77ab3677f8_m.jpg&quot; width=&quot;240&quot; height=&quot;180&quot; alt=&quot;100_7014.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trunk rack bags:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trunk bag sounds like the sort of thing you were thinking of. It's a small bag, about the length and width of a bike's rear rack, and generallyas high as it is wide. I only recommend one of these if you already have a rack. Capacity is smaller than most backpacks. They're if you don't want a basket or a backpack. Some models are fiddly to attach or detach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locking versions of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.otivia.com/cargocache.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;are available&lt;/a&gt; but they're heavy and much less flexible than their counterparts for motorcycles. Part of the problem is that a bicycle is much lighter than a scooter or motorcycle. Also, a rack can be removed from a bike by anyone with a 5mm allen key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Security: Good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trunk rack bag on a folding bike's rear rack:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/3329826272/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;IMG_0971.JPG by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3603/3329826272_44d3579999_m.jpg&quot; width=&quot;240&quot; height=&quot;135&quot; alt=&quot;IMG_0971.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trailers:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cargo trailers are available for bikes, and some can even be used as shopping carts. These are better for large grocery runs, and it sounds like you don't need a trailer at this point in time. Enclosed trailers are well-suited for riding in the rain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Security: Very little, similar to panniers. Although you could get a trailer that converts into a shopping cart and take it with you, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wicycle.com/cargo_shopper_bicycle_trailer.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;. But it'd be overkill for small errands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A trailer attached to a bike:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/3754134016/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;IMG_1367.JPG by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3460/3754134016_aa5f8faf02_m.jpg&quot; width=&quot;240&quot; height=&quot;135&quot; alt=&quot;IMG_1367.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, different kinds of carriers are good for different kinds of errands, but I recommend either a backpack in your situation. A locking trunk bag is only as secure as the rack on your bike, but may be useful if all you want is a deterrent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.613" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T05:03:53.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-06-16T21:51:06.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threaded and unthreaded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T21:51:06.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4273" CreationDate="2011-06-16T22:46:05.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a spoke key of the correct size. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3939/which-size-spoke-tool-currently-size-14&quot;&gt;Which size spoke tool. Currently size 14&lt;/a&gt; for some discussion - the short version is either visit your LBS and buy the size that fits your spokes, or just buy the three most common sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zKRP1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spoke key&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a screwdriver is unlikely to work - wheelbuilders use them in the very early stages when the spokes are very loose, but as soon as a little tension goes onto the spoke the nipples are impossible to turn that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikemagic.com/maintenance/wheel-truing-basics/3041.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;couple of links&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/skills/spokes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to true wheels&lt;/a&gt;. If you're willing to spend money &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;ved=0CCEQFjAA&amp;amp;url=http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-3rd-Jobst-Brandt/dp/0960723668&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=jobst%20the%20bicycle%20wheel&amp;amp;ei=M7H6TaSLAYqyvgPT0oi1Aw&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHvJTYwAtl0Je_SdCEr9IAsHFu2zg&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Bicycle Wheel&lt;/a&gt; is pretty definitive and it's quite a short book. It's hugely better than anything I've seen on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And your LBS should have a pile of spare nipples for their wheelbuilder(s) to use. They're only a few cents each, but buying retail like this probably 10c-20c is more likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T01:44:12.217" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2011-06-16T22:55:29.290" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible but quite uncommon. The trainer holds the bike upright while you throw your weight around, and the frame is not really designed for that. Bike fames are very strong with regard to vertical forces but nowhere near as strong for sideways forces. Twisting the bike between the rear axle and the handlebars is kind of ok (because it's designed to take a twist between the handlebars and bottom bracket) but it's something to minimise. You're more likely to see a fatigue failure than a simple overload.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are moving your upper body as you pedal you should try to learn not to do that. Wind trainers are all about sitting still and pedalling, not about practicing sprints. You should avoid getting out of the saddle, and try to minimise upper body movement. Or you may need to go with rollers rather than a trainer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely shouldn't bolt the trainer down - having it free to move almost guarantees you won't break your frame. The break I've seen was from one bolted to a concrete floor and the rider was out of the saddle when it broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Billy said, your rear skewer will suffer cosmetic damage. Trainers often come with a cheap steel skewer for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T22:55:29.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2011-06-16T23:09:27.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get hard shell bicycle storage, but they're usually heavy, expensive and fragile. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004Q8O4I6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;These panniers on Amazon&lt;/a&gt; are typical. Yes, they have a rigid shell and look sort of solid, but in practice the sort of knife that will cut soft-wall panniers will also cut these. Partly because decent panniers are made of quite strong cloth, and partly because really solid panniers end up weighing more than most people are willing to carry. The motorbike &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.metalmule.com/panniers-only/max-pannier/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Metal Mule&lt;/a&gt;&quot; systems weigh 5 or 6 kg just for the boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For low-value stuff like you're talking about I suggest just using normal panniers and locking those to your bike with a cheap padlock. Make it nice and visible to discourage casual theft - someone can still rummage through them and get stuff out, but they can't just grab the whole pannier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step would be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pacsafe.com/www/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;metal luggage net&lt;/a&gt; that you can put over the panniers and lock to the bike. It's still pretty lightweight and makes it really annoying to get things out of the panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For real security I think you'd need to make something yourself. Buy a box that can be secured and bolt it to your rear rack, probably with a bit of wood between box and rack for reinforcement. Where I live (Australia) there are a lot of those aluminium boxes you see on tradesmen's utes/trucks, and a custom smaller size one for your bike would probably cost about the same as the carbon fibre panniers above. My custom toolbox for home cost me about $200 but it's nearly ten times as big as you'd want to &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.net.nz/photo/2008/06/21-melbun-move/quad-bike-move-06-moz.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;put on a bicycle&lt;/a&gt;, a smaller custom one should be under $100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T00:21:36.107" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:21:36.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4275" CreationDate="2011-06-16T23:18:54.323" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a bike designed around modern &quot;short-reach&quot; 39-49mm calipers, you're going to four main issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Brake clearance vertically.  If everything else is optimal, a 49mm reach caliper should be able to clear around a 32mm tire.  You can verify this with an unmounted brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Brake clearance horizontally.  Extra cable tension releases (e.g. in levers or inline) help with this, but the maximum width that the calipers can spread will not be enough to allow an inflated tire through, and even with a deflated tire you might have to force it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Frame clearance. You'll need to have adequate clearance in three places: seatstay bridge, chainstay bridge, and fork crown.  In extremely aerodynamic frames, you also may have issues with seat tube clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Rim width of your current wheelset.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/EURUS_cl_-12-10.pdf&quot;&gt;Campagnolo Eurus&lt;/a&gt; wheelset has a 15mm wide rim.  The general rule of thumb is that &lt;A href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot;&gt;a tire should be no more than 1.45 to 2.0 times the rim width&lt;/a&gt;, which would limit you to roughly 30mm wide tires at the biggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general 23mm should be expected, 25mm is likely, and 28mm is occasionally possible.  What actually works on a given short reach frame is going to be heavily dependent on the factors above.  Bikes with medium-reach (57mm) or long-reach brakes are more capable; I do road riding on a classic 27&quot;-wheeled Trek refitted for 700c with long-reach brakes, 33.3mm tires and full fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T23:18:54.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4274" CreationDate="2011-06-17T01:40:16.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option would be to use an iPhone. If you use software such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MapMyRide&lt;/a&gt; you can integrate it with ANT+ sensors to measure speed, cadence and even heart rate. These sites also have excellent mapping, training review and history functions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use your existing phone rather than needing separate hardware&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The online version of mapping software allows you to plan routes and review your history&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waterproofing the iPhone will be harder than with dedicated hardware, although I have seen solutions (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/bike-mount-iphone-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Biologic's case&lt;/a&gt;) that claim to do this. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery life will be an issue. You'll need to find a way to keep it charging (using a hub generator as seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/reecharge-power-pack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) or have battery extenders (as seen in the millions on ebay).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maps are downloaded from google maps so you'll need to have a data plan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T04:28:28.590" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T04:28:28.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4284" CreationDate="2011-06-17T03:45:55.160" Score="13" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is no problem, though I would suggest practicing once before you have to use it on a flat. The first couple of times I used an inflator I had trouble inflating my tire fully.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, but I've found that once I start a cartridge it will leak slowly, so it doesn't last forever. In my experience it doesn't last more than a few hours, certainly not more than a day.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can buy inflators that handle both threaded and unthreaded. For example, this one -- &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00278XO0Q&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00278XO0Q&lt;/a&gt; -- can take any 16g CO2 cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1607" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T03:45:55.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4301" CreationDate="2011-06-17T04:18:50.470" Score="3" ViewCount="5980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have regular lower back pain (mostly mild, with severe episodes during which I generally stay home; there's nothing wrong with my spine, I just sit at a computer too much).  I just started biking to work - it's just a couple of miles and pretty flat, but having my back arched still doesn't feel very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What biking position should I try for?  Any particular adjustments to my bike I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1665" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T13:27:14.673" Title="biking with lower back pain" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4294" CreationDate="2011-06-17T04:55:27.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I'm a programmer too; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3221/how-much-rest-tendon-or-ligament-for-a-novice/3229#3229&quot;&gt;also a biker&lt;/a&gt; (or bicyclist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned about my lower back from learning Tai Chi: from an expert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.ca/search?q=sway+back&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;push my lower back outwards&lt;/a&gt; - more convex and less concave: but, I didn't learn that on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T13:50:35.903" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4274" CreationDate="2011-06-17T05:58:39.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a handheld gps device with openstreetmaps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Garmin eTrex Vista HCx with a 4GB card and all of streetmap Europe on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just dont hit the &quot;search street button&quot;, or the poor little processor will go south. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1165" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T05:58:39.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4274" CreationDate="2011-06-17T07:49:36.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Garmin Oregon 300, a discontinued model, which should be cheaper on eBay. I have a bike specific mount from Garmin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uses AA batteries (can use rechargeble ones), one set will last ~12 hours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ANT+: Can see heart rate and cadence data, if you have these sensors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GPX track saving on by default - you do not have to worry about turning this feature on, you will allways have your data&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can display various maps, including user made and OpenStreetMap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Display is sometimes hard to see in direct sunlight, newer models of this product line have fixed this problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bit heavy, for a cycle computer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No training programs built in (interval, etc), no HR alerts. Basically it is a tourism device, not sports one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T10:05:10.350" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T10:05:10.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4302" CreationDate="2011-06-17T08:11:49.297" Score="2" ViewCount="1592" Body="&lt;p&gt;so I am creating a few posts about bearings and wheels, (story so far):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4249/how-to-reassemble-mountain-bike-rear-wheel-hub-and-bearings&quot;&gt;how to reassemble mountain bike rear wheel hub and bearings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4264/mountain-bike-freewheel-hub-stopped-rotating&quot;&gt;mountain bike freewheel hub stopped rotating&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now got the wheels, bearings and freehub working.  Started riding to work this morning and I almost couldn't stop at a junction.  Thankfully wasn't going too fast.  I physically can not get the wheel to lock.  I have to use both brakes at full force to get the bike to roll to a stop.  If I only use one brake I would not stop at any junction in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the cause be any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over greased bearings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over greased axle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not tightened cone hubs enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not tighted axle enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have any grease on the disk brakes them selves.  Rather nervous getting on the bike now.  Don't seem to be doing too well with this bike home fixing thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;over greased bearings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forgot to mention that it is hydraulic disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the end I took it to the LBS as I didn't have much confidence in my self at this point.  They had to replace the front pads but where able to clean the rear and cleaned the rotors.  (I had tried to clean the rotors but obviously not vigorously enough).  He said it was a bit of a pain to do.  All is working again.  They double checked my wheels and said I had put them back together correctly which is reassuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T09:18:20.773" Title="Disk brakes severely reduced in power after replacing bearings" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2011-06-17T08:29:00.573" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sports-tracker.com/blog/category/android/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sports Tracker&lt;/a&gt; a lot on Symbian phones and they now have an Android version coming out (as well as an iPhone version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1aG3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sports Tracker on Android&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can beep on auto-laps for example every kilometre. You can review your workouts on the phone, something I don't think Endomondo can do. You can use it with a Bluetooth Polar heart rate monitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see things like this on both the phone and website: route plotted on a scrollable, zoomable map with lap markers (using Open Street Map), duration, distance, average and max speed, energy use, charts of altitude vs. distance, heart rate distribution (light, moderate, hard), heart rate vs. time, speed vs. time and lap timings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oEem4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sports Tracker on Android&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can upload to their site (which is a bit Flash heavy for my liking) with various permissions (private, visible to friends, visible to everyone), Twitter, Facebook. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you take photos during the workout, it can upload those to the site too, and shows them on the map. You can also edit and export workout routes, and replay them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7d8bh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sports Tracker website&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T08:29:00.573" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-17T08:29:00.573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-17T09:52:32.010" Score="1" ViewCount="1880" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=218831cf-7a36-4d56-9be7-4eb8e90280cc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Simplex SX410 rear derailleur&lt;/a&gt; on my bike was dirty, so I got it off to clean it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, now I can't quite seem to get it on again in a correct way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I can't get the spring to be wound up correctly (the derailleur hangs quite loose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyone here who has got the same derailleur and actually knows how to put it on correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1580" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T13:18:06.357" Title="Installation of the simplex SX410" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4294" CreationDate="2011-06-17T11:12:39.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am familiar with this problem and the efforts people go to in order to reduce back pain on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Far too frequently people go for expensive stems and bars that climb skywards. Next thing they come back wanting to try something else. The problem being that their hands are no longer taking any of their upper body weight, every bump agitates their spine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to get an upright position where the weight balance is good, 'Dutch bikes' seem to manage it, retro-fitting a road bike or MTB is very tricky to get right. Have a look at other cyclists on the road and their posture, get your own idea of how to sit. Bars at seat height and close, i.e. short top tube and relaxed geometry, might be worth a try. This will not be optimum on big hills as you cannot do a lot out of the saddle, but for most roads this should be nice and comfy. Consider getting some old steel bike second hand that has this geometry style. Then you can adapt your proper bike if you like the 'old fashioned' setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T11:12:39.583" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4298" CreationDate="2011-06-17T12:23:10.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the brakes appear to be engaging fully then it sounds like you have some contamination on the rotors/pads.  I would clean the rotors throughly and replace the pads.  I have heard it is possible to bake contaminants off pads in the oven, and if you want to give that a shot google for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T12:23:10.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-17T12:31:29.250" Score="2" ViewCount="1593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently moved away from NYC to the suburbs. In NYC, I always locked up my bike with the New York Lock, which is a super heavy duty U-Lock. With a plethora of signs and parking meters, NYC works amazingly well for a U-Lock. Now however, the security is overkill and also there's very few signs and no parking meters in the suburbs. I find that I spend at least 10 minutes when I get places trying to identify a U-Lock compatible location to lock up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a bike lock that isn't a U-Lock but is still fairly secure. I might not need such high security still, but you know the old saying... (You can take a man out of the city but you can't take the city out of a man.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My one requirement is that whatever chain/cable lock I end up with needs to have a mount for the bike. I don't want to be carrying this or draping it on the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found tons of cheap, really insecure locks with mounts. I can't find anything that's both secure and mountable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost is no obstacle here. A bike theft would cost much, much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1666" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T17:42:43.840" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T22:25:59.047" Title="Non U-Lock that can be mounted for carrying?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2011-06-17T12:32:48.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends...  I usually carry inflaters AND a pump.  I've had problems with both.  The CO2 cartridges aren't too crazy expensive, but my most recent flat I used 2 of them and still ended up finishing with the pump.  It's really easy to blow the CO2 out without getting it in the tire, and if that happens, you'd better have another cartridge to try, or a pump on standby for backup.  The inflaters seem like a good idea and worked fine at home, but in practice when stuck on the side of the road, I'm unimpressed.  The small handpumps I've also found difficult to work with.  They just don't latch on as well as a regular pump.  I'm still looking for a good reliable solution (which I need 'cause I get a LOT of flats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T12:32:48.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-17T14:35:44.540" Score="8" ViewCount="1540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been commuting to work this summer and have realized I need to build up my supply of activewear, but have so far been largely turned off by the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are good sources of decent and inexpensive:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sweat wicking t-shirts (preferably nice enough looking to wear on their own)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quality socks, again moisture wicking and possibly with a little extra padding under the ball of the foot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;padded cycling shorts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;other necessities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="1373" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:21:15.540" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T09:12:55.073" Title="Best sources for inexpensive cycling clothing" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-07-13T20:29:57.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:06:43.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local supermarket (Tesco) sells cycling tops and shorts. Reasonable quality and pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:06:43.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:23:04.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nashbar has been my source for years.   Several times a year they have big clearance sales and you can find excellent deals. &#xA;They carry everything from high-end name-brand stuff to their own labeled products.&#xA;I still have the original Nashbar jersey I bought maybe 20 years ago....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:23:04.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4298" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:26:20.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That would be my thought... Are you sure with all that work you've done you didn't get any grease on the pads or rotors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would pop out the pads and clean them thoroughly with something like acetone.... Likewise the rotors.&#xA;Then make sure the cable adjustment is good and the discs are centered...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just working on the first bike I've handled with discs, so I'm doing a bit of quick research... These are the Shimano cable-pull models.  The rear one is not centered properly and drags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:26:20.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:36:09.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainlove.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainlove.com/&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bonktown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bonktown.com/&lt;/a&gt; are both deal at a time sites with some pretty great prices on cycling gear. Not clothing specific but there is a fair amount on there. Chainlove is geared more toward mountain biking, Bonktown is more for the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:36:09.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2011-06-17T16:22:16.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mountain Equipment Coop has very reasonably priced and quite durable clothing. They're Canadian, but they have an online presence &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1667" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T16:22:16.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4303" CreationDate="2011-06-17T17:29:18.680" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00165S5FK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00165S5FK&lt;/a&gt;. I don't know how secure it is yet, since I haven't used it, but it does come with a frame mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="382" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T17:29:18.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4303" CreationDate="2011-06-17T17:50:44.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any specific lock recommendation is going to be out of date in a year, so I'll focus on identifying the best kind of lock: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any cable locks are going to be insecure by nature, but it's unfortunately the only other kind of lock available just now. (I'm not counting big-ass chains with giant locks; those are more for show than for security.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the heavier Kryptonite cable locks is probably your best bet. To beef up the security, I'd get two of them and lock up different parts of the bike. I'm told that keyed locks are harder to crack than combination locks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, have you considered getting a smaller U-lock and a long cable? You'd get the best of both worlds that way. Since places to lock up are scarce, you'd usually end up using it as just a cable lock, but it'd give you flexibility in the event you find a good sign or bike rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike mounts: These tend to fall apart rather quickly. I recommend focusing on a small pag to carry your locks, rather than use a frame mount. There are triangle frame bags and small trunk bags that do the job nicely. However, cable locks have a great advantage over U-locks--you can coil them up and hang them from your handlebars. Unless you have smaller drop bars, it's amazingly convenient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T17:50:44.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4276" CreationDate="2011-06-17T18:29:57.037" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your general GPS concern for accuracy is reasonable, but it is the same worldwide, not just outside the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full GPS constellation is in orbit with spares, so there is world wide 3-D coverage of the planet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happens that there are moments in time in any arbitrary location, where the coverage could be better, and the US military has a group that actually forecasts these for their armed forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. Do not try a precision bomb drop at a moment that the satellite configuration is not optimal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GPS has other issues (trees, buildings, clouds) that get in the way.  As Billy ONeal notes, wheel sensors are not perfect either.  An example of GPS issues, occurred when two friends of mine with Garmin Forerunner 201's (GPS only devices) on their arms ran a known measured half marathon course side by side, and had a 4K discrepancy at the end of it!  (We blame firmware for that one).  So firmware can make a big difference on GPS devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be very interested in comparing results from a GPS and wheel sensor on a longer ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T16:39:43.830" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T16:39:43.830" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4303" CreationDate="2011-06-17T19:40:41.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of months ago, I purchased an OnGuard link-plate lock which claims to be as tough as some u-locks.  It mounts easily to the bicycle and has thus far served me well.  It feels pretty durable and will go around more potential anchors than a u-lock.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine came with a plastic case that attaches to the downtube using velcro straps.  It looked kinda cheesy right out of the package, but I must say that I use it every day and it has been just fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the manufactuer's description:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onguardlock.com/?page_id=329&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.onguardlock.com/?page_id=329&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T19:40:41.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4294" CreationDate="2011-06-17T19:42:28.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to, &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/fEQZX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Andy Pruitt's Complete Medical Guide for Cyclists&lt;/a&gt;. Incorrect bike fit is a frequent contributor, especially too much reach to the handlebar. Also, lack of &quot;core&quot; strength in the torso can cause fatigue and pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd go with taking a look at your &lt;em&gt;bike fit&lt;/em&gt; first. If that doesn't help, you can definitely consider torso strength and flexibility as the root causes of the lower back issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;bike fit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is the first place to start. Have you looked into this? A &quot;dutch bike&quot; may be the answer. But, maybe not? Things to try are: seat fore:aft, handlebar extension, handlebar height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second thing, is that your torso may be weak or inflexible or both. I don't know? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Folks are out there on road bikes, mountain bikes, hybrids, and just about any kind of bike with no pain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T22:23:13.867" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T22:23:13.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4256" CreationDate="2011-06-17T20:23:04.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normal. There's oil that lubricates the inside of the air chamber and a little will come out when you let the air out. The Fox service manual mentions this and recommends that you put a rag over the schrader valve when relieving the pressure in the shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T20:23:04.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4323" CreationDate="2011-06-17T22:43:08.567" Score="15" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose a car is going to collide with you. What can you do to minimise the consequences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By collision I mean that it may be intentional or an accident. Anyway I am looking for tips on how to act in this kind of situation where the other vehicle probably has much larger total energy than you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose someone is about to drive over you when you are riding a bike, what is the best way to avoid this happening? During work time I see people driving too many times at too high speed up to pedestrian crossings, for example. Even though I am using lights and reflector vests they do not really help with this kind of situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2011-06-19T13:20:13.260" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T13:35:35.580" Title="Most favoriable collision with a car? How should I act before collision, supposing enough time?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4294" CreationDate="2011-06-18T00:54:12.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others have mentioned good tips about position, but I thought I'd add a few things other than that which I find helpful to reduce lower back pain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I stopped carrying any sort of bag on my back (no matter how seemingly light!) and switched a rack with panniers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I stretch after riding, focusing particularly on my lower back (obviously), but also my buttocks and hamstrings, since having these tight can lead to lower back pain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I'm getting back into commuting after not riding for a while, I give myself more recovery time between rides to gain strength. In other words, don't start from zero biking days to biking every day and expect to not be in pain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that these steps have largely eliminated the problem for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1607" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T00:54:12.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4320" CreationDate="2011-06-18T09:58:44.477" Score="10" ViewCount="1699" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ther are quite a few bicycle registration websites aimed to help you recover your bike if it is stolen, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeshepherd.org/&quot;&gt;Bike Shepherd&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeregister.com/&quot;&gt;Bike Register&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mybikenumber.com&quot;&gt;MyBikeNumber&lt;/a&gt;. I'm curious if these sites are of any use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the strengths and weaknesses of registering on these sites? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any data available on their efficacy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2011-06-19T07:46:28.670" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T07:46:28.670" Title="Are bicycle registration websites any use for recovering stolen bikes?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4319" CreationDate="2011-06-18T10:18:36.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two questions that I think matter are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;which sites do your local bikes shops check all the bikes that come in against?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;which sites do your local police check bikes they receive against?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience bike shops very rarely check bikes at all, largely because so few are registered (and a relatively low proportion of serviced bikes are stolen). When we have checked it's been because of something like filed-off serial numbers or a DIY repaint job, and we've not ever had any joy doing so. Even ringing the police in one case didn help - the bike hadn't been reported as stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the police go, I've been told by one officer that at least in Australia the best you can hope for is them typing the serial number(s) into google. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're better off keeping a record of the serial number and reporting your bike stolen with those details, because the police do actually check serial numbers (it's built into the computer systems).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that also helps is carving your ID number (national ID, driver's licence, whatever is common in your country) into the frame or something obvious like the outside face of the cranks. That makes it irritating to remove and again, easy for the police to identify but not easy for anyone else. If you have access to an engraving tool itś not hard to do this (practice on something first!), but of course it also makes your bike hard to sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T10:18:36.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4321" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-18T10:28:02.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A pannier (pronounced /ˈpæniər/) is a basket, bag, box, or similar container, carried in pairs either slung over the back of a beast of burden, or attached to the sides of a bicycle or motorcycle. The term derives from the Old French, from Classical Latin, word for bread basket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pannier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2011-06-18T10:45:13.437" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T10:45:13.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4322" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-18T10:28:02.630" Score="0" Body="A pannier (pronounced /ˈpæniər/) is a basket, bag, box, or similar container, carried in pairs either slung over the back of a beast of burden, or attached to the sides of a bicycle or motorcycle. The term derives from the Old French, from Classical Latin, word for bread basket." OwnerUserId="1593" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2011-06-18T10:45:17.243" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T10:45:17.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4317" CreationDate="2011-06-18T10:44:41.660" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to answer the &quot;if a collision is going to happen&quot; question, not the &quot;how do I prevent collisions&quot;, because that's addressed already. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2096/what-advanced-cycling-skills-are-useful-for-a-commuter-or-city-rider&quot;&gt;What advanced cycling skills are useful for a commuter or city rider?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3230/techniques-for-minimising-injury-when-falling-or-crashing&quot;&gt;Techniques for minimising injury when falling or crashing?&lt;/a&gt; both have safety tips. Although a more general &quot;safety equipment we should all have&quot; wiki might be handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also going to assume they're not actively trying to hit you. Although since &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edgarsnyder.com/bicycle/accident-statistics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about 1/3 of fatalities involve a drunk driver&lt;/a&gt; this may not be entirely correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Collision from the rear&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite being one of the most feared collisions, this is also relatively rare (although disproportionately fatal) at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/health/risks.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;about 1.4% of fatalities&lt;/a&gt;. If it's going to happen you're almost certainly better off riding off the road to avoid it - crashing into something at bicycle speeds beats being crashed into at motor vehicle speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Collision from the side&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone is going to drive into you from the side I really don't know what you can do. Lifting your legs above the impact zone or even jumping onto the vehicle might help, and at least reduce the chances of you being crushed underneath it. My focus would be on quickly deciding whether to brake to avoid it, or sprint to avoid it. Then do that. Avoiding the crash is &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; the better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crashing into something&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This usually happens when a motorist turns in front of you or crashes into something in front of you. The cliche &quot;superman&quot; crash, where you fly over the car leaving your bike behind. As with motorcyclists, the best advice is to jump, because if your legs hit the handlebars and break you'll be in a lot of pain for a long time. Better to jump over the car, land on the other side and lose some skin. I've done this a few times and cracking a bone in my shoulder is the worst that's happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advice in the linked questions above is definitely relevant here. Wearing reflective and highly visible, abrasion-resistant clothing will help, as will cycling gloves and decent shoes. A helmet is also handy. I have dynamo lights that don't turn off and a blinking red light on the back of my helmet that I often use in daylight as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T10:44:41.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2011-06-18T10:51:07.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wait for the sales in your local bike shops for cycle-specific clothing. Cycling knicks etc are expensive but bike shops often have 50% or more off in sales, and frequently a bin of 80% off remainder stuff that might be a year or two old. These are great for gloves as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also buy polypropylene underclothes in bulk when there are really good sales, then keep it long after it's become a bit worn (it still works). While it can be expensive I am still wearing stuff I bought in a sale 10 years ago. So I have no idea where you get it cheap today :) Likewise polarfleece jumpers - I have two that I've been given by friends because they're a little grubby, and one I bought in the same sale as the polypro. Yes, I look daggy on my bike, but I'm also warm and comfy. My main point here is that this stuff lasts ages so don't be afraid to spend a little more for the first set while you wait for a sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T10:51:07.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4319" CreationDate="2011-06-18T14:14:54.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the serial number of your bike, the police will enter the information into NCIC.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That's the National Crime Information Center.&#xA;Anyone running that serial number will get a &quot;hit&quot; on your report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem we have is that folks simply don't do it; they don't keep track of the serial number and we have to tell them that even if the bike is found, the chance it will be legally identified as theirs is minimal.&#xA;One Trek 4300 looks pretty much like another...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used any of these sites, and I can say with some assurance that we police in this area don't check them.  I suppose it might catch on.... I'll have to do some research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T14:14:54.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4254" CreationDate="2011-06-18T17:52:34.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out that while some chains are directional (like the CN-7900 @lantius mentioned), this one is not. So while I'm not sure how much it matters for other chains, in my case, I clearly don't care :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T17:52:34.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2011-06-18T21:26:56.017" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all like a bargain. Rich people don't get rich by paying top-dollar for everything and poor people sometimes have their purchasing decisions limited to what is in the bargain-bin. Whether rich or poor a lot of time can be spent hunting out bargains, however, all bargains are just another ploy to get some money from someone's pocket. Hence, rather than just scout for bargains it can pay to know a little bit about how a given product - in this case cycle clothing - gets to be marked down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer takes that perspective into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with what you see on the shelves, in the bargain bin or online, a lot depends on how tall or short you are. That is a huge factor in affordable bike-gear and here is why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most LBS suppliers bring in a certain amount with the start of each season in a mix of sizes - lots of medium and large and not so much x-small, small and x-large. Shops then purchase from the distributor so as to stock all of the sizes with the popular sizes in quantity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inevitably, as the season goes on, the popular sizes sell out leaving the less popular sizes, i.e. x-small and x-large. Then they go back to the distributor to re-stock. Somehow the distributor are always able to source the x-small and x-large sizes, however, they sell out of the popular sizes before the season's end (or not if that year's designs are not well received).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, a popular item in a popular size will become very hard to find at some point. When this happens the shops with the x-small and x-large sizes left will have an unsellable product, taking up valuable shop-floor space. They then need to discount the product to get rid of it as soon as possible. Because the markup on clothing is high (and has to be because of the situation described), the shop can discount heavily the end-of-line items without making a loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, if you want discount cycle clothing it is best to be really tall or really short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source of clothing that you might be interested in are places such as TKMaxx. Where do these places get their stock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a distributor brings in a new range of clothing they get a complete set of pre-production samples in all the sizes and colour variations. These samples are as good as the finished, production articles but not for retail - they are to show the retailers so that they can place their orders. The samples cannot be sold in competition with the retailers as that would upset the retailers. Instead these items have to be sold through a different channel. TKMaxx are the specialists in being able to sell such collections of one-off samples. They buy entire sample sets and sell them as seen at considerable discount. Therefore, you will want to keep your eyes peeled for whomever your favourite cycling clothing is distributed by and work out whom they offload the sample collection to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major online specialist cycle retailers - 'Wiggle' and 'Chain Reaction Cycles' in the UK only have so much latitude in how far they can go on prices. They do get specialist rates from the distributors but if they go below an acceptable price then the distributor can threaten not to supply them. In practice this works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big online retailers have costs and problems of their own. They only compete on one thing - price. Postage is at a preferential rate to them but it still costs, particularly when you buy all three sizes and return the two that do not fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their own-brand directly-sourced without distributor clothing range is also a bit naff - akin to 'Woolworths Winfield' rather than 'Adidas' genuine originals. This may not matter to you, but people do sneer, myself included. Nothing marks you out as a cheapskate in the cycling world more than own-brand clobber from offshore, online-only retailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in the retail channel are grey imports. This is where a specialist cycle shop - maybe only dealing in high-end road bikes and apparel - goes to somewhere else in the world to get their goodies, bypassing the distributor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This presents an interesting situation when things go wrong as the grey importer does not have the security of having a distributor to return faulty goods to. The distributor will see returned items as 'fakes' and not have anything to do with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK there is 'Lidl' - a German supermarket that does cycle clothing from time to time. Funnily enough I am wearing some of their £10 SPD shoes right now. You have to wait for them to get a batch of cycle gear in and then it is not really quite as good as the real stuff. Many synthetic fibres are really bad for holding the bacteria that give you body odour, and I suspect that the Lidl clothing is of this ilk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the many ways that the whole thing works, I highly recommend buying from your local bike shop if they have taken the time and effort to put a range of clothing together for their customers to try and buy. This is not the chain where head office have to approve every penny, this is the proper local bike shop where the owner manager is out the back or helping a customer, Allen keys in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are wanting a deal and don't mind colours and a bit of shop soiling do ask them what have they got out the back that is in your size and that they are desperate to get rid of. They are bound to have something and, so long as they are not going to lose money on the sale, i.e. trade-price + taxman, you can probably 'take it off their hands'. This will still help the shop with their weekly cashflow, you will get to test the fit before you buy and everyone should be happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-07-07T00:51:43.477" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T00:51:43.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4317" CreationDate="2011-06-18T22:13:15.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have thought about this on several occasions, mostly at dusk with average quality lights on my bike and a car over-taking another car in the opposite lane. Yep, that is the 70 mph car heading straight at you, not looking for a bike, or even having the imagination to expect a bike coming the other way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am alive today so therefore my up-until-now secret strategy has clearly worked (and yes I am touching wood immediately). Therefore I will share it with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In normal life I am not a God-fearing Christian. In fact I have no imaginary friend of the omnipotent and omniscient nature lurking in some imaginary place somewhere above the sky (former schoolmates at GCHQ excepted). However, when I detect an 'incoming launch' (my secret phrase for a rather-large-and-heavy tin-box coming directly my way at Highway Code defying speed) I suddenly become religious. I utter 'Oh my God' and, in a blink of an eye, what was to be certain tragedy is magically avoidified. 'Jesus please save me' also works if my memory serves me correctly, but I am not sure of any other vocabulary that the skygod understands. My advice is to stick to one of those two phrases - I am living proof that this method is fool-proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a student I did lose a very religious friend to a tin-box with a heavy accelerator pedal. To this day I am lost for words regarding the loss of a coursemate that was so able, talented, decent to people and a cyclist. In my opinion his loss and the loss of others taken away by the tin-box people is harder to come to terms with than how other people 'make it upstairs'. No logic or reason can explain it and why there is no penalty of significance for the evil-wrong-doer in the tin box. 'Did not see you, mate' hurts, doesn't it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, faced with this loss I was not sure about whether or not my religious conversions at time of imminent death was really needed. All I could assume was that my former friend had given up on his faith at the time he needed the skygod the most. Maybe he said 'bloody hell' or something like that, rather than one of the two secret phrases that are known and guaranteed to work. Well, that can be the only explanation as I see it, the most logical, reasoned explanation anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually I have travelled quite a few yards on car bonnets, with the scars and smashed laptops to prove it. These were the occasions when things happened so quickly that even in slow-motion shock I did not have time to utter the magic words, but somehow got off lightly (i.e. alive). Somehow I never seem to bounce back onto my feet like the movie actors do after their ultra-violent scenes. I almost enjoy concussion and how people go weird on you, sending you off to A+E where they shine bright lights in your eyes and don't let you watch teevee (never understood that bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the soul-searching after an incident, where, obviously the tin-box person was entirely in the wrong, I have actually came to a realization that I could have done things to make things different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The importance of a bright front light cannot be under-estimated. The importance to assertively handle junctions cannot be under-estimated. The importance of making eye-contact with other road users cannot be under-estimated. The importance of not skirting round the outside of a roundabout in a cowardly manner cannot be under-estimated. You cannot show weakness or deference to the tin-box. You cannot afford to have loose clothing get caught in moving parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, there is a lot you can do to avoid the almighty killing machine that is the tin-box. Some of it is psychological approach to riding, the rest of it is getting bike and hi-viz together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off-road mountain biking is a useful proving ground for accidents and their mitigation. One strategy that works surprisingly well is to take a direct hit, head on, wheels straight with no glancing-blow nonsense. Accidents seem tidier that way and the automatic response of sticking hands out works better as the crash is both wrists in mega-agony rather than one wrist broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To conclude, don't forget the magic phrase and whatever you do, do not end up like my former college friend - people on SE might miss you, not to mention your mum and everyone else you know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T22:13:15.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4303" CreationDate="2011-06-18T22:25:59.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should check out the ABUS extreme editions of their folding bike lock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q1A66.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ABUS&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See how it packs away:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8KUQL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ABUS2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also do a twinset version so that you can have two rings of steel around both of your wheels and working off a common key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't own one myself but I know people that do own them. I think that something in the ABUS 'Bordo' range will be perfect for you being able to put your mind at rest when off-bike, yet easy to carry when on-bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T22:25:59.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4300" CreationDate="2011-06-18T22:38:02.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the alloy versions of the 'Sachs Huret' steel efforts of that period and I am familiar with the tension problems that can happen if you take them apart and put them back together again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You undid the lower Allen key bolt, didn't you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to take the little bolt on the side of the cage off, then undo the lower Allen bolt, swing the cage around approximately 180 degrees, tighten up the Allen bolt making sure the spring goes in, then pull the cage round approximately 180 degree, then pop the lower cage bolt back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be done, don't go out an buy a new one, persevere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T22:38:02.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2011-06-18T22:52:18.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go lo-tech and bolt a crate to the top of a 4-point pannier rack, use wing-nuts to secure it with the wing-nuts inside the box so you can take the contraption off quite easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then put whatever you want inside and secure with bungee cords, bits of ugly string and a bit of unobtrusive tarpaulin. Make it look like you carry your dog in the back, totally agricultural. Anyone wanting to steal your bread and shampoo and soap will need lots of hands or a bag of their own. They would also have to be quick as 'it appears that you will be back in a matter of seconds' and anyone that does bother to steal your bread probably needs it more than you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Posh solutions have been marketed in the past, however, they attract thieves. But, if that is what you want, put a motorcycle helmet box on the back - with wing-nuts inside - and that will blend into the environs really well as people walk past those all the time without wanting to pop them open. You can probably get a second hand one on eBay and that might blend in even more, plus you won't be so concerned about drilling holes in the bottom of it to adapt it to your 4-point rear rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T22:52:18.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2011-06-19T01:39:28.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikejuju.com/2009/awesome-grocery-getter-homebuilt-cargo-bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;grocery bike&lt;/a&gt; may give you some good ideas. Basically what might help is a trailer you can detach and bring with you into the store and push around like a cart.  That way, you don't have to &quot;carry&quot; anything around the store, and you don't have to worry about locking it up.  The link I posted is to a custom bike, but I imagine that trailers must exist that you can detach and push around.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.target.com/InSTEP-Sierra-Bicycle-Trailer-Double/dp/B002QAVQ2S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this trailer&lt;/a&gt; may do the job.  Haven't used one before, but looks like it has the right features.  Might look a little weird with a trailer made for kids, without the kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T01:39:28.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4274" CreationDate="2011-06-19T06:19:31.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using the device for turn by turn directions, then the Garmin 800 is really the only available choice which meets all of my requirements for a cycling computer with GPS. If you don't need turn by turn, consider the 500. It's got all the othe features, except the tur by turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the iPhone, but the lack of integrated sensors and good, solid handlebar mounts. Also, the iPhone is only cost effective if you already own it. Otherwise, it is far more expensive, after accounting for buying transmitters and receivers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Oregon, eTrex, or others are suited well for the handheld hiking options, and will work with a bike, but you still have to buy the sensors, and they aren't exactly cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my answer is, no. There aren't any other GPS cycling computers which do the same job, as well, for less cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T06:19:31.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2011-06-19T06:24:38.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no risk to your bicycle from a properly fit and used trainer. Use the skewer which usually comes with the trainer, make sure your mount point is adjusted properly. The flex in the frame happens when you ride, too. You just don't notice it because you are paying attention to where you are going, rather than focusing on minutiae. (As is proper.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider getting a trainer which has some VR functions built in. You'll find you focus more on riding, and less on the mechanical aspects of setting up the bike. www.tacx.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T06:24:38.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4276" CreationDate="2011-06-19T06:42:30.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheel sensor add on will do quite a bit to improve the accuracy of the GPS based current speed. The distance will generally be accurate, to within error values of 50 meters, or so depending on hardware. Most phones, especially with android, are on the lower spec of GPS design, using wifi databases and cellular triangulation to augment the GPS positioning sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They generally use open source maps, like Google Maps, which often change, and are less than consistent about coverage. I would recommend using an ANT+ add on, if you are concerned about exact speed and distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wahoo makes decent ANT+ sensors for the iPhone, but I'm not aware of a quality set up for android. There are too many devices, so it would be difficult to create a single device guaranteed to work across the board on android, even with the same OS version. I assume this is why they haven't made an Android version yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T06:42:30.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2011-06-19T06:45:07.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trainers when used correctly are great, but they do in fact add wear and tear to your bicycle and its components. It is specifically adding kilometres/miles to your drivetrain and to your back wheel.&#xA;Regular maintenance (cleaning, greasing, general lubrication) will aid in keeping your bike in great condition, but expect that with lots of use, you may need to replace certain components sooner than if you didn't use a trainer at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1669" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T06:45:07.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4190" CreationDate="2011-06-19T06:51:44.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not possible to remove using only a chain whip. You will need the proper tool. If you can't get the proper tool, you can remove it by crushing it in a vise until it no longer spins, and then using a chain whip. But it will not be useful after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you trying to grease the hub bearings, or the freewheel? If the hub, you don't need to remove it. Just the axle, which you want to do from the side of the wheel which has no gears. If the freehub, most of these are designed as sealed units. It is unlikely that you will have the tools (and the skill, no offense meant) to disassemble it, grease it, and put it back together functional, if you don't have the freewheel removal tool to fit it. You might look for a shop with a freewheel buddy. they don't require it to be removed at all, in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T06:51:44.760" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4210" CreationDate="2011-06-19T06:52:09.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes do add weight due to the caliber, pads, steel mounting hardware, and if they are fluid operated, then they are generally even heavier than the cable counterparts.&#xA;You can reduce significant amounts of weight just by swapping the generic steel hardware for titanium bolts.&#xA;Dollars per gram saved is quite unreal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1669" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T06:52:09.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4210" CreationDate="2011-06-19T08:34:31.960" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference in weight is there, but hasn't really been significant for the last few years. Scott, for instance, is building a complete, disc brake hardtail with a 4&quot; travel fork. Bike weight: 7.45 Kg, or roughly 16 lbs. That's 2 lbs less than my road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight comparison only becomes truly significant when you look at more basic bicycles, i.e. the $600-1500 market, because the cost penalties for premium parts, like truly light weight disc brakes and hubs, don't allow use in that market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking at an aftermarket upgrade, expect to spend $1500 on new wheels and brakes, and often more, for quality, lightweight kit. The weight penalty has gotten down to only 50-100 grams in most cases, between a bike built with a high quality disc setup and a high quality V-brake setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the advantage in brake modulation and power, not to mention consistency in all weather conditions far outweighs the the addition of a few grams. No pun intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-02T04:56:02.680" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T04:56:02.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4347" CreationDate="2011-06-19T10:18:15.143" Score="7" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have single speed bicycle with a straight dropout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I'm having is that over the course of a week, the chain loses tension until eventually, if I do not re-position the back wheel again, leads to the chain coming loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a minor annoyance while the bike is configured on its freewheel, however, it could be positively dangerous if I used the fixed gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing incorrectly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any spacers I can fit in to the drop-out to alleviate this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or perhaps it's the fact I'm using a multi-tool to tighten the bolts. Maybe I need a tool that gives me more torque?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your advice is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T00:25:27.110" Title="Chain loses tension on straight drop out" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-19T14:03:51.227" Score="3" ViewCount="1436" Body="&lt;p&gt;This summer I have already bought two bike computers but both have failed to meet my expectations:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Computer #1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Filzer had &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442623585&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302693003&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;poor reviews&lt;/a&gt; but I thought I would give it a try anyways.  Should have listened to the reviews the computer stopped receiving data after about two weeks.  (Luckily Mec has a good return policy so I exchanged the computer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tfqt4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Computer #2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I bought a computer from China.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The computer is wireless which is a nice perk (no wires snaking across your bike =&gt; more beautiful).  Unfortunately the computer was in poor shape upon arrival.  It seems like something was loose inside the computer.  The computer appeared to work fine but I never put it on my bike (the rattling would drive me crazy).  Because of the low price of ~$6 I actually ordered two computers.  Both had the same issue.  (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/348676812-Wireless-LCD-Cycle-Computer-Odometer-Speedometer-Bike-Bicycle-Meter-Speed-Counter-wholesalers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Site&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g1nrn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good quality bike computers for a reasonable price?  Here are my requirements: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under $100 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provides Functions: &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ave. Speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time riding &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance for the season&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wireless (optional)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus Functionality (would pay a little bit extra):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heart beat monitor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cadence (Pedal rotations)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GPS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2011-06-19T23:30:18.043" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T05:42:25.307" Title="Reliable Bike Computer" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2020-08-07T13:36:44.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4341" CreationDate="2011-06-19T14:27:09.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is almost certainly that you're not torquing the bolts on tight enough. They need to clamp down &lt;em&gt;tight&lt;/em&gt;. A multitool is going to get you nowhere near the amount of torque you need. I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0025UKATE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pedro's Trixie&lt;/a&gt; for my track bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T14:27:09.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4348" CreationDate="2011-06-19T16:40:42.583" Score="3" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4317/most-favoriable-collision-with-a-car-how-should-i-act-before-collision-supposin/4323#4323&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; raises a sub-question, to avoid accidents. I am looking for some safe ways to practice jumping over cars. I use SPD shoes and disc brakes because I have noticed that I can burst very fast with them. I have no idea whether it is possible to jump over cars easily without SPD shoes and disc brakes. So any good ideas for safe practising?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T22:19:56.223" Title="How to practice jumping over cars with disc brakes and SPD shoes?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4342" CreationDate="2011-06-19T16:45:12.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My LBS has a number of bike computers that fit the requirements and at least a few of the bonus points, all for under $100. I'm planning to pick up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://catalog.alamedabicycle.com/product/sigma-bc1609-sts-wireless-computer-sku-cy7306-qc53.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;new one&lt;/a&gt; once my arm heals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dnM3b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sigma BC1609&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked your local shop? They would both often have a selection you can check out, and also a better support/return policy than random vendors online :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T16:45:12.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4342" CreationDate="2011-06-19T20:36:03.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Cateye Strada Wireless on my mountain bike. It's taken quite a bit of abuse and hasn't let me down yet. My only complaint is that it's easy to reset your trip info by accidentally leaning on the computer for a few seconds. This can be seen as a benefit as well, as it's easy to reset your distance if you're navigating and need to know how far until your next turn even if you're wearing winter gloves. It's a basic computer, no cadence, GPS, HRM, or anything like that. That stuff just takes the fun out of riding anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend that you loctite the wheel magnet, they'll come loose over rough terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/28PUf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cateye Strada Wireless&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They get good reviews at &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000R5NRCG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T20:36:03.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4341" CreationDate="2011-06-19T21:35:21.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3042#3042&quot;&gt;tuggnut (also known as a chain tug)&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Surly&lt;/a&gt; has an excellent one that I use. I was getting the exact problem that you were until I got the tuggnut and since then haven't had a problem. They also sell cheaper ones at BMX shops or you can search on eBay for &quot;Chain Tug&quot; and find many cheaper options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other bonus is that it makes adjusting the tension really easy. You can dial in just the right amount of tension then take your time getting the wheel straight and the bolts tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend getting a better spanner so you're not going to ruin the wheel bolts, but even with a ratchet I was still getting slipping. The tuggnut will solve this completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T00:25:27.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4344" CreationDate="2011-06-19T22:19:56.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;More useful for you would be going along to a basic aikido course, or if that's not available judo, gymnastics, ninjitsu or some other form that teaches you how to roll. Forget the holds and throws and just learn how to roll. When you can confidently run full speed at a waist-high obstacle and dive-roll over it, you'll be in a better position to survive a bicycle-enhanced version of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a grassy children's playground with a suitable step, bank or ditch, and practice going over the handlebars. As freheit suggested in comments, wear protective equipment. I suggest starting slowly and using an old BMX rather than a bike you care about. The bmx will be easier to get off as well as cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest this isn't something I would practice. What I get people to do when I'm training them is just turning the bike to one side and fall away from it. At walking speed. The idea is just to convince them that they're not going to die if they fall off, and to give them a few tips on keeping their arms bent. Mostly I use it to sell them on the idea of cycling gloves (and not riding in crappy footwear). Note that I've only done this where helmets are mandatory, but otherwise I'd also be selling people on helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T22:19:56.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4342" CreationDate="2011-06-19T23:55:15.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Cateye that incorporated a heart-rate-monitor... Ran it without problems for about 10 years.  The little rubberized buttons finally deteriorated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise I have a Specialized branded item that my patrol bike wore for about that long and it's presently on my roadster...Still works fine.   No idea who really makes them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T23:55:15.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4202" CreationDate="2011-06-20T08:33:38.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frankly, unless you are willing to swap to a disc brake bike, you are out of luck. I assume that you are riding the bike regularly, but I would not expect to get more than 1-2 months out of a rubber or cork road brake pad (Cork is typically only used on carbon fiber rims). Especially in a hilly area. You can extend the life slightly by ensuring your rims are clean and dry, but only by a small percentage. A bike ridden in wet weather can use up a set of rubber brake pads in one ride. 1/2 a season or more is an excellent usable life for this type of pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A disc brake pad will last much longer, because the pads are made of sintered metal, like the pads in your car. Average life is 1 to 2 years, with variation in riding style and weather. That requires changing at minimum your wheels and brakes, but most likely would require a new bike. Not something I would consider cost effective solely to save money on brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T08:33:38.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2369" CreationDate="2011-06-20T12:30:42.457" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon parts will cause aluminum to oxidize, as a chemical reaction which is why seat posts wind up stuck in frames. But that isn't why this is necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Carbon grease&quot; is not actually grease. It's a friction compound which increases the friction between your fancy carbon seat post and your frame. Increasing the friction allows a lower torque on the fixing bolts for the individual part, which reduces the risk of crushing the part, or having it slip in the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slippage of seat posts and handlebars in the frame was why we were originally told not to grease carbon parts. The grease reduced friction, which meant higher torque and more broken parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After parts started to get stuck, they realized that they need something, but it had to increase friction, rather than decrease it. Hence, carbon &quot;grease&quot; compounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T12:39:34.840" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T12:39:34.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3890" CreationDate="2011-06-20T13:11:57.693" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the actual question, they are no longer sold in the US. In most locations, they aren't legal to sell. A bicycle tire uses the pressure from the inflation of the tube, (or in the case of tubeless tires, the tire itself is inflated), against the casing of the tire to lock the bead of the tire into the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without that pressure lock, the tires roll off the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a solid tube or solid manufactured tire can't by definition inflate against the bead, they were both abnormally hard to install, and prone to rolling off the wheel in use. So they were considered unsafe, and are no longer sold anywhere that I am aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly, no reputable shop will sell them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T13:11:57.693" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3398" CreationDate="2011-06-20T14:08:36.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer is, they are. See the Scott CR1, the Trek Pilot, the Specialized Roubaix, and a dozen similar bikes marketed, and very popular all over the world. All are Sportive style bikes, marketed under their own local market category names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T14:08:36.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3266" CreationDate="2011-06-20T14:23:02.747" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While many people use MTB cleats for road use, and are quite happy with them, there are down sides to them. Because the cleat is embedded in the shoe, they are easier to walk on. That same thing requires the cleat to be far smaller than a road cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smaller cleat is less supportive of the foot that a larger road cleat. On long rides, the additional muscle activation (flex in the sole of our foot) causes cramping and hotspots. Better quality MTB shoes with a stiffer, usually carbon fiber, sole will be better than soft rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will not likely notice the difference on rides of less than 25 miles. You are also unlikely to notice the difference, if say, you've only ever ridden on MTB shoes and cleats. I would recommend road shoes and cleats as ideal for performance, but there are a myriad of reasons why you could consider compromising performance for ease of use or immediate short distance comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do design the road cleat for a road bike for a reason, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T14:23:02.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2951" CreationDate="2011-06-20T14:30:52.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Just don't expect to sue your LBS or the manufacturer should you crash due to QR failure or your wheel coming out of the fork. They are &quot;Lawyer&quot; tabs. Meant mostly to convince a court that the manufacturer did everything reasonable to produce a safe product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T14:30:52.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2742" CreationDate="2011-06-20T14:39:22.490" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is, no, it is not advisable, and yes it can cause damage. The chain uses tension to shift. Shifting with both front and rear derailleurs at the same time will remove that tension. The answer above is absolutely correct, but they are a bit too phlegmatic about the risks involved. Drop a chain due to poor shifting habits, and you risk wrapping the chain in the derailleur. This can and often does pull the derailleur around into the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, you have lost the derailleur and chain, and you may have lost the wheel. You may even lose the frame if you are unlucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no real benefit to shifting that way, as it will likely slow down your shifting response, (because of the aforementioned loss of tension on the chain), so why would you do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the request by @amcnabb, I'm updating this answer to include instruction on the proper way to to shift both your front chain ring and rear chain ring simultaneously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple answer is, you don't. You shift one and then the other. Depending on your need (large gear change, or small gearing change) then you choose the front or rear to shift first. Shift, that one, then if necessary, ass soon as the chain settles on the new gear you've chosen, shift the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a mechanical necessity. It has nothing to do with choice, preference, or best practice. Your chain &lt;em&gt;requires&lt;/em&gt; a certain amount of tension to shift properly. If you shift both the front and rear gears at the same time, then you will not have any tension on the chain shifting down or too much if shifting up. That will cause poor, slow, or no shifting, at best, and at worst, it will cause serious damage to your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With practice and timing, you can make &lt;em&gt;near&lt;/em&gt; simultaneous shifts, which will function properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best practice, of course, is to plan ahead, use a gear cluster which takes into account the terrain you intend to ride, and to plan your necessary shifts ahead of time, so that major gear jumps are not ever required. This is safer mechanically, and makes for a more enjoyable ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-08T17:48:06.853" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T17:48:06.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2664" CreationDate="2011-06-20T14:49:09.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the classes at bikeschool.com. Excellent frame building classes, and great mechanics classes as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T14:49:09.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2656" CreationDate="2011-06-20T14:50:51.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are tires (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tacx.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tacx.com&lt;/a&gt;) made specifically for the trainer. They use a different rubber compound that will minimize wear and contact noise. It won't help with the mechanical side of the trainer though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T19:17:49.580" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T19:17:49.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2011-06-20T14:52:20.767" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://alchemygoods.com/&quot;&gt;http://alchemygoods.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They recycle inner tubes into usable products, and will give you credit towards their products for recycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T14:52:20.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2626" CreationDate="2011-06-20T14:55:32.090" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before the tire and tube are installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T14:55:32.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2571" CreationDate="2011-06-20T14:59:43.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically speaking, a compact crank is one with a smaller bolt circle diameter (110mm) than the standard road crankset, which has a 130mm or 135mm BCD. This allows a crankset to have an inside chainring smaller than 39 teeth, which is the smallest that a standard will fit before the teeth hit the chainring bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It allows a better climbing range, and when combined with an 11 tooth rear cog it is actually faster than the 53/12 combination standard on a &quot;standard double&quot; crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-06-25T10:02:18.713" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T10:02:18.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2656" CreationDate="2011-06-20T19:35:55.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Zenbike says... Much of the noise is generated by the tires.  Any smooth harder-compound &quot;slick&quot; is going to be quieter than a tread with a lot of pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one I have now, a Minoura, is decently quiet.  I can't hear it over the TV.  However, my previous item generated a high-pitched buzz that was quite annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T19:35:55.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2011-06-20T19:37:41.373" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about recycling them yourself? Here are some ideas posted on the brilliant &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikehacks.com/.services/blog/6a0120a7ed5f9d970b0120a7ed62b6970b/search?filter.q=inner%20tube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BikeHacks&lt;/a&gt; website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shoelaces, wallet, yarn, handlebar tape, top tube passenger seat, dog lead, Maglite handlebar attachment, rack, key chain bling, bike bell, repaired bike seat...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eQkwG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q44jp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T19:37:41.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4298" CreationDate="2011-06-20T21:20:50.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may also need to re-center your disc in your caliper.  I use Avid BB7's, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/BB7%20User%20Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;owner's manual&lt;/a&gt; gives you the directions to re-center the disc.  This is basically making it so that when the pads impact the disc, the pads on both sides pinch down on the disc.  If the disc is too far off-center, only one pad will rub, which isn't really enough to stop the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may or may not apply to your brakes, but I can't imagine it not being in the instructions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T21:20:50.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4371" CreationDate="2011-06-20T23:04:56.200" Score="8" ViewCount="5333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just learning to climb standing, and I find I'm often guessing wrong about which gear to use; plus there are times where I'm accelerating up the hill and just need to shift up. Upshifts under power usually cause a loud clunk, so I sometimes &quot;rotate easy&quot; through the shift, but I'm not always that patient or adept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are full-power rear upshifts while climbing standing BAD for components, or is that a typical expected usage?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still on my &quot;learners&quot; bike, an older MTB triple, and for now I'm still a heavy rider - 230 lbs. I'm actually not too worried about hurting this current bike, but would really like to avoid ingraining bad habits that I'll regret on an eventual new road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;strong&gt;assume&lt;/strong&gt; I'm putting a more stress on chain and derailleur - the shifts sure clunk pretty loudly.  So far, no actual shifting problems.  Is it just a matter of keeping an eye on chain stretch, or is this a practice I should minimize?  (It's sure fun to accelerate up a hill though!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Postscript&lt;/strong&gt; (6/25/2011): Hmm, look what happened to my rear wheel today.  I'm not saying this is due to standing upshifts, or even just climbing standing in general.  And it is a 20-year old MTB I bought used 2 years ago, so history is unknown.  But hmm.  I think I'll spin more and stand less :-)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVzkG.png&quot; alt=&quot;wheel is warped&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFp3H.png&quot; alt=&quot;cracked and bulging rim section&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1674" LastEditorUserId="1674" LastEditDate="2011-06-25T21:42:29.973" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T08:06:58.023" Title="Is it harmful to shift RD while climbing standing?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3398" CreationDate="2011-06-21T00:09:24.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That site's basic definition of &lt;em&gt;sportive&lt;/em&gt; boils down to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more upright riding position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more comfortable for distance riding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;longer chainstays, taller head tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;softer forks (though many brands have gone to carbon forks across the board)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yet still with drop handlebars and quality components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I think nearly every brand in the US has entries in that realm, though they often call them things like &quot;endurance / sport / performance&quot; as compared to &quot;race / competition&quot;. Basically it comes down to &quot;comfort geometry not race geometry&quot;; components, materials, and even gearing choices are often similar or identical.   Of course their race models often extend up into exotic carbon frames and top-end component groups, where sport models may only go up to basic carbon frames and mid-level groupos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples (aluminum frames):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Brand          sport geometry     race geometry&#xA;-----          --------------     -------------&#xA;Cannondale     Synapse            CAAD 10&#xA;Felt           Z series           F series&#xA;Giant          Defy               TCR &#xA;Specialized    Secteur            Allez&#xA;Trek           ?                  2 series&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all drop-bar road bikes, but the first column has a little more forgiving ride for long distances, while the last column has racier / faster handling.  But both kinds &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; raceable if you want (they're not all that far apart).  Both can usually be had with your choice of triple or compact double crank gears; a standard double seems more available in race models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 'sportive' bikes are available in the US, just by different names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1674" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T00:09:24.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4376" CreationDate="2011-06-21T08:44:57.737" Score="4" ViewCount="5274" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lock side is great, however, shoes does not stay on the platform side. Your leg always slip out from the pedals during pedaling. Any solution to improve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="2331" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T16:35:17.973" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T13:38:40.033" Title="How do I make the platform side of a Shimano PD-A530 multi-purpose SPD pedal less &quot;slippery&quot;?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4298" CreationDate="2011-06-21T09:44:41.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the feel of the brakes (i.e. when you squeeze the lever) has changed since your maintenance then there may be air in the system, and you may have to bleed them. If this is the case then they will feel spongy, and the levers will probably move further back towards the handlebars than you're used to. This can sometimes happen if there is air in the reservoirs and you leave the bike upside down while you're working on it - the bubbles work up into the brake cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sometimes avoid having to bleed the brakes if you pump the levers repeatedly, but this is normally only a temporary fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, I wouldn't expect braking to be as badly affected as yours seems to be, so it's more likely that there's some contamination on the discs or pads - maybe some spray lube got onto the rotor? Or maybe just greasy finger prints on the rotor? The best solution I've found is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.muc-off.com/shop/product.php?id=7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;disc cleaner&lt;/a&gt; - just spray this on the rotor then apply the brakes and it will clean the pads as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1534" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T09:44:41.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2011-06-21T10:19:12.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure there is a good answer to this question. It probably depends most on what type of shoes you wear. Have you tried using trainers/sneakers with a rubber sole? I wouldn't want to try and modify the pedals as you may risk damaging them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a really good reliable pedal connection on the platform side, I reckon the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-m324-combination-pedals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano M324 pedals&lt;/a&gt; are more likely to suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T10:19:12.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4366" CreationDate="2011-06-21T11:42:37.823" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will you damage components?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably, if this is a repeated pattern, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When standing to climb you will be in a higher gear than when seated climbing. This means the cadence of your legs and pedals is slower. Add to the slower cadence the fact that you are powering down hard to accelerate uphill and there is significant power going through the chain and derailleur over a chain moving too slowly. If you are hearing loud clunks, that is unlikely to be good for your bike's components. It may not result in immediate failure, but is increasing wear and could result in failure later on. Rather than chain stretch, you may get a link failure and chain snapping, or you may damage parts of the derailleur if you do this regularly under high power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An alternative approach to changing gear while standing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have got the bike moving at a speed where you feel the cadence is too quick standing, try going back to a seated position. It will probably now feel too slow to change up. This will also allow you to use different muscles. If you can still accelerate up to a speed where the cadence is too fast and you want to change up, then do so with the pedals spinning quickly but with a moment where you apply slightly less power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General advice on hill climbing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you change up, move to standing to maintain momentum and to account for the lower cadence of the higher gear. If you can still accelerate in the higher gear - repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also find this article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phred.org/~alex/kenkifer/www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/skills/uphill.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Climb a Hill on a Bicycle&lt;/a&gt; a useful reference. Although he concentrates on maintaining momentum and the theory of when to attack to optimise energy efficiency through the hills rather than how to change gears..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastEditorUserId="846" LastEditDate="2013-06-18T08:06:58.023" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T08:06:58.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4373" CreationDate="2011-06-21T13:19:35.823" Score="12" ViewCount="2990" Body="&lt;p&gt;While looking for new tyres that would fit my bike from a design point of view, it turned out that none of my color wishes could be fulfilled. Most tyres on the market are black, with a handful of exceptions (some mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2189/looking-for-orange-tyres&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are headsets, clamps, brake levers, saddle posts etc. available in all colors, why not tyres?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1072" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T10:49:12.293" Title="Why are most tyres black?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4372" CreationDate="2011-06-21T13:30:39.730" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_black#Reinforcing_carbon_blacks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The highest volume use of carbon black is as a reinforcing filler in rubber products, especially tires&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Practically all rubber products where tensile and abrasion wear properties are crucial use carbon black, so they are black in color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2189&quot;&gt;pictures of 'orange' tires&lt;/a&gt; show that while the sides of the tire are orange, the tire is black 'where the rubber meets the road'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T13:38:40.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2011-06-21T13:42:46.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you need to change your pedalling style when you're riding without clips: push (only) down onto the pedal, instead of spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T13:42:46.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4342" CreationDate="2011-06-21T14:53:35.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a wired &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000R6QR2C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cateye Strada Cadence&lt;/a&gt; on my hybrid: I've had it for a year, and all I've had to do is occasionally adjust the position of the cadence sensor. It meets your basic requirements and also (obviously, from the name) measures cadence ... in fact, I typically have the display showing both speed and cadence, as in the example below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SfmzA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was one thing I needed to adjust when I set it up, though. Because of the size and shape of my frame (it's a Specialized Globe), the distance between the crank and sensor was too great to register, but I found some posts that recommended using &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000SJ61EC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rare earth magnets&lt;/a&gt;. I put one of them on the magnet that's mounted on the crank and one on the magnet on the spoke (be careful: the rare earth magnets are strong magnets), and the sensor reads it with no problems. I don't go off-road, but I've ridden on some fairly bumpy roads and paths, and I haven't come close to losing a magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1341" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T14:53:35.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2011-06-21T15:42:10.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people have modded the pedals to add set-screws which provide better grip.  Typically this involves drilling a hole, tapping it for threads, and adding a set screw of the desired length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, here's an a530 with 2x set screws added:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zIFv2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano A530 with Set Screw Mod&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T15:42:10.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4372" CreationDate="2011-06-21T16:21:38.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get other colors of tires, but they aren't usually available because if the tire is made with the tread actually a different color, they must use different more expensive additives to increase durability. (See Carbon Black answer above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, on colored tires, the tread portion of the tire rarely looks good for any length of time after being ridden. So customers aren't often satisfied with the product for very long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the same matching effect can be achieved by the sidewalls being colored, most manufacturers go that way instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, most retailers prefer not to stock a tire that is limited in use to only the few bikes which match the tire color. Tires are expensive, and bulky to store. So why fill your wall space with 5 colors of one model of tire, when you can give better service to more customers by stocking one color of five models in the same space.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T16:21:38.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="695" CreationDate="2011-06-21T16:38:05.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option is to make your own tires as previously stated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't like the idea of using nails or screws as studs, (which I agree with), try using pop rivets instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is more time consuming, but they work better, are more durable, and will stay in place better than a nail or screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a small, sharp drill, usually 1/8&quot;, and drill through the knobs of the tire from the inside of the casing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select a pop rivet which will just protrude from the knob of the tire. Stainless steel is most durable. Place 2-4 rivets approximately every 4 inches around the tire. (On a 16 inch tire, 2 inches might be better.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fill the divot created by the compression of the rivet on the inside of the tire with silicon. That prevents the back of the rivet from popping the tube when installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T16:38:05.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4148" CreationDate="2011-06-21T17:10:21.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answers to how to increase leverage have already been stated above. But the best option is to put it back on the bike first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vise risks at least cosmetic damage to the crank arm. Using pipe to lengthen the lever work, assuming you have 2 pipes, with large enough internal diameter to fit over the crank arm and the pedal wrench, but can also do cosmetic damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aforementioned position close to the crank increases leverage, but still requires strength and that can't be increased easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put it back on the bike, and use a proper pedal wrench, the bike acts a stable base, obviating the use of a vise, and the pedal wrench has plenty of length (in most cases) to carry the leverage necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T17:10:21.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4214" CreationDate="2011-06-21T17:27:01.537" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A v-brake has too much stopping power for a road bike, and too little modulation. It requires significantly more contact patch, the rubber area of the tire which is in contact with the road at any given time, to maintain traction in a braking operation. A v-brake has too much power, and too little control of its power because of the linear design of the compression mechanism of the brake. If you managed to get the brake adjusted to work at all, it would cause the bike to skid immediately when the brakes were applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition the traditional lever pull on a road brake lever uses a different ratio of lever throw to cable pull (1:1). A V-brake (or cable disc or cantilever) uses a 2:1 ratio, which means the lever would have to travel twice as far for the brake to touch the rim. The road brake lever would have to be redesigned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T17:27:01.537" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3678" CreationDate="2011-06-21T17:57:45.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your info, 5'2&quot; usually is closer to 49 or 50cm than 46cm. Make sure you have someone qualified fit her on a bike before you purchase. It would be a shame to search, and find the perfect bike, only to discover it is too small (or too large) once you have it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T17:57:45.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2011-06-21T19:34:14.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would pay a visit to your local skateboard shop and get some 'skateboard grip tape'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be inexpensive and it can be applied in such a way that your pedals are not permanently damaged. The glue on the stuff is pretty good and it is pretty much totally designed for keeping feet in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pedals might look a bit naff with bits of tape wrapped around them, a further consideration is that you could go away from the normal black and get hi-viz tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T19:34:14.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4366" CreationDate="2011-06-21T20:23:05.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I changed my riding out of the saddle habits when I bought a speedometer. Rarely did I notice an increase in speed when out of the saddle, typically getting a 1 - 1.5 mph drop even if I felt I was going faster. Dancing on the pedals clearly has its place on very steep hills and competitive situations, but, for general riding, for me, staying seated and using the gears is more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a misconception here about the 'strain placed on the rear derailleur'. Let's be clear that no matter how strong you are or how weak you are, or how heavy you are, or how light you are, any extra force applied to the pedals will not make a big difference to the mechanical lifetime of the rear derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is that only the top part of the drive-train is under tension. The first few teeth at the top of the chainring and the first few teeth at the top of the sprocket do all the work, where the chain wraps around at the bottom is not under tension - the derailleur cage spring provides what tension there is and that does not increase just because you are going-for-it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear derailleur feeds the chain in at the bottom in the low-tension part of the loop, the front derailleur does not - it acts on where the chain is tight (when pedalling), hence you definitely have to ease up when shifting chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the chain and sprockets that is a different matter. When changing gear there will be a point when those first few teeth are actually on two different sprockets. Because the sprockets are of different size the chain will not have a smooth transition from one sprocket to the next and the shift of the load from one to the other may not be exactly smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With modern 'hyperglide' gears setup correctly the shift will be possible under load without too much scary goings-on. However this will result in mechanical wear. This wear will primarily be to the bushings of the chain resulting in what we call 'stretch'. In turn this 'stretch' will degrade the ability of the chain to spread the load over 'the first few teeth' of the sprockets (and chainset). The 'first few teeth' eventually becomes the 'first couple of teeth', then, with the load not spread the sprockets begin to wear, potentially resulting in a hooked shape that means only a 'stretched' chain will work with the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notionally chains have a life of 1000 miles, 2000 for a posh one. I advise that you ride as you feel fit, keep the gears adjusted to work and replace the chain every 2000 miles to avoid damage to the sprockets and chainring. You can ride the gears into the ground, putting 10K miles on a chain but this means you end up with a bill for replacement parts that comes to a lot more than it would have cost to replace the chain as per its service instructions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T20:23:05.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4387" CreationDate="2011-06-21T21:28:47.553" Score="8" ViewCount="23623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm cleaning out most of the bearings on my new (second hand) bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing the grease inside the pedal bearings and I was wondering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many ball bearings should be inside? I thought there had to be just enough to fill the full circle, but a friend of mine told me I should fill the circle to its fullest and then remove one ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason, he said, is that else there is to much pressure on the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? And is it true for all the bearings (say, the ones in my hubs)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also, I'm putting vaseline (the yellow heavy-duty variant) inside the bearings&amp;nbsp;&amp;ndash; is that a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1580" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2019-06-01T11:23:35.843" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T11:23:35.843" Title="How many balls to put in a bearing?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4388" CreationDate="2011-06-21T22:58:50.507" Score="10" ViewCount="50043" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got my (threaded) stem at the maximum height, but I'd be more comfortable if the bars were higher relative to the seat. It would be uncomfortable to lower the seat any further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was intrigued by the idea of a stem riser as a cheaper solution than a taller stem, or a larger frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T16:33:28.563" Title="Better solution for uncomfortably low bars: a stem riser, or taller stem?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2011-06-21T23:10:38.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wool is nice because it breathes better than warm synthetics, smells better when sweaty than any synthetic, and still keeps you warm when it's wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advertising can compensate for a synthetic fabric's poor performance. Evolution forced wool to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T23:10:38.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4384" CreationDate="2011-06-22T00:11:45.510" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason behind the &quot;full less one&quot; is that you need at least half the race full (rounded up) for it to work and performance improves with more balls past that point, but if it's too full you get a dramatic loss in performance. So &quot;full less one&quot; is an easy guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice most bearings spread a little as you tighten the cones so &quot;full&quot; when you're adding balls is not actually full in use. You can usually see this - when you're adding balls they generally sit in against the axle, then when you add the cone it spreads the bearings slightly. So filling the race is almost always fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be tempted to add one more to fill in the extra space created when you tighten it up, this is exactly the situation the &quot;full less one&quot; guide is trying to avoid. That &quot;full plus one&quot; means all the load is on one bearing (and one section of the cone), plus the bearings are really grnding against each other as the wheel rotates. If you're lucky the wheel won't rotate in this situation, but if you're unlucky you're wreck the cups and have to replace the cups (or hub, if the cups are not replaceable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T00:11:45.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4385" CreationDate="2011-06-22T00:20:32.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stem risers do work but have limitations. They increase the amount of force you can put on the headset (as does anything else that gets the handlebars further up), they can break (unlikely but possible), they add a little slop and they often creak (a consequence of the slop). If you're a strong guy with wide handlebars and you're prone to really grunting on the bars you're more likely to break a riser (or anything else), and will probably find the small amount of extra slop makes the bars feel loose (or as though they're about to break).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;threadless: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOoxJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;threadless handlebar stem riser&quot;&gt; quill: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3d2Js.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;quill stem riser&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've generally suggested them as an interim solution for someone playing with bike fit, or for someone who wants a bigger frame but can't afford a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I have a back injury that means I need a more upright riding position, and I've obtained that via a set of upright bars that have a bit of rise as well as the sweep back, and a stem with more rise (that I swapped off my old commuter bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T07:26:35.260" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T07:26:35.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2011-06-22T03:29:45.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For temperatures up to about +5 Celsius or so, I use a jacket (waterproof and/or lined and/or just fleecy): with a zipper down the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I get warm, I more or less undo the zipper (keeping it shut at the bottom to stop it flapping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undoing the zipper spills a lot of heat from my core (body).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the zipper done up (to my throat) keeps a lot of heat in (especially when it's a long-sleeved jacket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to keep a lot of heat in, and/or being able to spill a lot of heat, means that I have a lot of control over how much I keep or shed, just by positioning the one zipper higher or lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T03:37:14.037" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T03:37:14.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4391" CreationDate="2011-06-22T04:04:32.417" Score="5" ViewCount="20744" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some background information on myself before I get to the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've decided to get in to cycling both as a hobby and because I need the activity. (Though I'm honestly driven more by the former - I've always enjoyed riding since I was a kid.) I already have a bike that seems decent to me (for someone in my position), but I'm also a newcomer and don't know that much. It's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2004&amp;amp;Brand=Cannondale&amp;amp;Model=R800&amp;amp;Type=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2004 Cannondale R800&lt;/a&gt;. When I was about 15, my dad and I each got one to start together. Long story short, we had some &lt;em&gt;demotivating&lt;/em&gt; initial experiences with the clipless pedals, moved shortly after, and soon the bikes were (sadly) forgotten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now (~6 years later), I'm looking to &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; get into it, and it seems that there is a lot of &quot;essential&quot; gear I should buy. I have somewhat limited funds (as a student), and can't do it all at once, so was hoping for some guidance in both what I &lt;strong&gt;absolutely&lt;/strong&gt; need to get, and what would be more ancillary. Also, recommendations on around how much I should be spending on different items would be helpful. For example, I know headlights can run anywhere from $10-$1000+, but I don't know what the sweet spots between performance and value are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a fairly rural environment in a university town of ~21k people. There is a decent bike shop in town considering the size, however their focus is much more casual/ kid-oriented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Jersey (longsleeve + shortsleeve)&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling Shorts&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling Shoes&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helmet&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Small) Saddle Bag&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emergency Patch Kit&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I don't have, but are on my radar to acquire (at some point):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Headlights / Taillights&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling computer / heart monitor (I do have an Android phone that I know can facilitate this point.)&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional clothing, though nothing particular at the moment&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gloves&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tool kit&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to be fairly serious about it, though training for self-improvement, not competition. I'm planning to gear up to riding my first century this September.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tell me if there's any more information I need to add, and, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1680" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:45:59.617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T09:41:30.497" Title="Most Crucial Gear/ Accessories for a (Road) Cycling Beginner?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4390" CreationDate="2011-06-22T04:23:41.940" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have the basics covered pretty well.... If you're turning in some serious mileage, you want to be able to handle flats and minor repairs on the road.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Minimum is a good frame pump ( a lot of the mini pumps have trouble getting past 50 pounds or so...) spare tube, tire tools, etc.  Some of the handy little hand-cleaning wipes are a good idea as well.&#xA;A multi-tool that will take care of most emergencies is a good investment; it should include a chain breaker, allen wrenches to fit the fasteners on your bike, etc.&#xA;Some money is never a bad idea.  You may just HAVE to have a donut....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T04:23:41.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4384" CreationDate="2011-06-22T04:28:14.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you not count the ones you removed?   That's basic... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be sure to take a couple of the old ones to the shop so that they can match the size; most are standard but some bikes have odd-ball sizes.&#xA;And be sure to buy new bearings; they are cheap and most authorities recommend that old ones not be re-used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T04:28:14.233" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4390" CreationDate="2011-06-22T04:54:19.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a specific question about lights, for example, I think it would be better asked as a separate question. I could tell you what kind I have but they may not be suitable for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like gloves: I consider them safety equipment like a helmet (in case of accident), and comfortable like shoes or shorts are (normally), good for the handle bar grips (keeps the sweat off them), and apparently they (having padding built-in) are good for soaking up vibration and so avoiding numb hands (I commute on crazed pavement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to have a raincoat and/or a jacket, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1667/what-to-wear-when-its-cold/4389#4389&quot;&gt;when it's cold&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've a U-lock for my bike, so I can park it outside (some people wouldn't, for a road-bike: never leave their bike alone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a computer or heart monitor so I don't know what I'm missing (but IME it's possible to cycle without one). I do have a wrist-watch, and maps at home, so I can plan my route in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Storing a public transit token in my on-bike bag was useful once, when I got a nail through my tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T05:00:47.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4385" CreationDate="2011-06-22T06:37:04.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4385/better-solution-for-uncomfortably-low-bars-a-stem-riser-or-taller-stem/4388#4388&quot;&gt;Moz's answer&lt;/a&gt;, with which I agree, a stem riser can affect the handling of a bike, and it's safety. In most cases, they are fine and perfectly safe. Any thing like this can be carried too far, however, and your frame is designed with particular limits on the amount of leverage placed on any part of the frame. There are always extra margins built in for safety, but carrying any kind of modification to the design of a frame TOO far can result in damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, too large a change can, depending on body proportion, put you in  position that will pull you too far toward the rear of the frame. That change of balance can make the bike steer &quot;skittishly&quot; or &quot;lightly&quot;, because there is not a balanced proportion of the weight on the front wheel (which handles your steering).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meaning that a 1&quot;--3&quot; riser is probably fine, but installing a 10&quot; riser is probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given funds and opportunity, you are in the long run better off getting a frame that is fit correctly, or a style of bicycle better suited to your needs. IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T07:25:43.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4153" CreationDate="2011-06-22T08:49:06.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;ad 1 and 2: I'm not really aware of any completely researched cycling routes from Rome to the South. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietskaarten.nl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;These guys (in dutch)&lt;/a&gt; have almost all guides that I know about. (click &quot;Zuid europa&quot; and then &quot;Italië&quot; to get to their italy selection). The &quot;fietsgidsen&quot; section has some books in dutch and german that are reasonably easy to follow just from the maps without working knowledge of dutch or german. They also carry a very comprehensive selection of maps suitable for cyclists. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecf.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The European Cyclists Federation&lt;/a&gt; also has some nice routes, I don't know how far into the south though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ad 2: The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietskaarten.nl/WD120AWP/WD120Awp.exe/CTX_24524-11-RjOSKZjdeW/LinkPagina/SYNC_-1761603721?A6&amp;amp;knoopid=678&amp;amp;soort=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Touring Club Italiano&lt;/a&gt; maps are by far the best for cycling in italy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ad 3: The train is by far the best option for alternative transportation. Italy has a pretty extensive train network. Take the time to buy tickets, make sure you tell them you're taking bicycles. Sometimes you'll have to buy a bicycle ticket, sometimes you won't, they are not very expensive. Busses usually don't have the cargo capacity for bicycles, but this may vary by locality. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.italianrail.com/italy_railway_map.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; looks like a good site to get an idea of the italian train system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T08:49:06.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4390" CreationDate="2011-06-22T09:28:06.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go completely analog with the bike-telemetry and treat yourself to a compass-bell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QAeKh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Compass bell&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use mine very often - either to get people out of my way or to find where I am going - however the compass feature has been very useful when I have been lost in the big city and not known which way to go down a street. It won't tell you how fast you are going or what time of day it is but it needs no power and is of more interest than the standard bell (which you have probably taken off, right?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T09:28:06.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4385" CreationDate="2011-06-22T09:39:34.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am agreed with @zenbike + @moz and I have &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4294/biking-with-lower-back-pain&quot;&gt;part-covered some of the gotchas of this topic already&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you might also like to try are some 'North Road' style handlebars. These will bring your arms into a more relaxed posture whilst still enabling you to put some weight onto the bars. Typical 'North Road' bars do rise a bit, bringing the hands closer helps too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BYz3E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;North Road bars&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try before you buy as lots of bikes have this style and a short ride with them might have you convinced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T09:39:34.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2894" CreationDate="2011-06-22T09:43:27.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kelloggs.co.uk/products/list.aspx#elevenses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kelloggs Nutri-grain Elevenses&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; bars are my favourite bike food, especially the ginger ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;167 calories per bar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Equal amounts starchy and sugary carbohydrate, low fat, B vitamins. I'm no nutritionist, but I understand they're not that bad for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moist, crumbling texture. Easier to eat than other cereal bars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Packaging is a bit of a pain, but can be ripped whilst riding with some dedicated front teeth. Otherwise, make a small tear before you set off to make it easier later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've eaten them on warm and cold days, whilst pootling along and immediately after big hills. They always taste good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, I don't work for Kelloggs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T09:43:27.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4317" CreationDate="2011-06-22T12:08:13.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I have been on many crashes and survived all of it without having not more than few scratches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@moz's answer mentions about jumping at the car, when it is about to hit you. Haven't tried the side jump yet though. But it is true, it has saved my life many times, usually I end up at the back of the car, due to the car's speed, but I dodge the fatality quite clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you will not always except a low height vehicle like cars, what about trucks, or buses, coming at you with a speed of 70 Kph?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, for big trucks with large wheels, is considerable easier to try to go underneath the truck itself, rather than trying to escape from it. Did this once, I fell down on purpose on my bike, by front handle bars and rims were toast, but I lived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest things, that has helped me escape these crashes is &lt;strong&gt;I Don't FREAK Out&lt;/strong&gt;. If you freak out, you are as good as dead. But, as the adrenaline, rushes through your body, and time virtually slows down (&quot;BRAIN reacts faster actually&quot;), you think of yourself and chances to protect it. Dont think about meshing up a expensive bike, and avoiding injury. If you can't take few bruises on your will, surving a crash is highly unlikely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crashing on turns, is really scary. But the best move here, as you see crash coming on, jump out of your bike from the back and fall towards the side of the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, sharp turns can also avoid big crashes. Once, A bike was heading towards me in an unimaginable speed. I really didn't have much time to think. So, I followed basic instincts are tried to take a sharp turn(I just leaned my body towards left side, the best I could). The bike slammed on me, but due the angle I was in, the force ejected me from the bike and pushed me to the sideways, even my bike, wasn't that bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, My scariest crashes are not these. The busy roads. If you luckily survived a crash and are still breathing, there will another crash waiting for you immediately. So, whenever you are down on the road, the best chance you have is, rolling to a safe side (Dont get up, and freak out the driver, they can create a larger accident instead). Watch the approaching vehicle and roll sideways to safetly, continue dodging the vehicles, till you reach the side ways. (I haven't tried this one though, saw it somewhere, I freaked the driver and created a bigger mess). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of things to tell, but first lets see, how much was my answer helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT STILL THE MANTRA IS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;DONT FREAK OUT&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;THINK&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T12:08:13.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4402" CreationDate="2011-06-22T12:19:49.463" Score="2" ViewCount="1217" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is it important to have good saddles? Other than the comfort in long rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T09:50:33.877" Title="Why is it important to have good saddles?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4400" CreationDate="2011-06-22T12:37:04.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taken from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/255211-prostate-trouble-and-bike-seats/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;livestrong website:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A March 2005 article in &quot;European Urology&quot; discusses the overuse injuries that can stem from long-term bicycling. The article states that, although cycling can be a healthy, beneficial sport, some injuries can occur to the urogenital system. Genitalia numbness was found to be most common, reported in 50 to 91 percent of the cyclists, followed by erectile dysfunction reported in 13 to 24 percent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Prevention/Solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although studies do not link bicycling with specific prostate diseases, the pressure of traditional seats can create problems for both men and women. Fortunately, there are several types of seats that can help alleviate that pressure and prevent injury. Look for seats with a split saddle, or one with a space in the area that would normally press into the perineum. There are more extreme options like the &quot;no-nose&quot; bicycle seat, the moon seat and the easy seat that are geometrically different from a standard saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T12:37:04.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4400" CreationDate="2011-06-22T12:54:31.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons, one of which is a fear of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erectile_dysfunction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ED&lt;/a&gt;, which we can all agree is bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, there are 2 other major reasons as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you ride (or exercise otherwise), your body tries to adapt to the new form of motion, support, or what have you. This is why we create callouses, and new muscle. It is why we get more flexibility with stretching.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your saddle is poor quality, it usually lacks the stability to be a platform your body can adapt to. We all know what it usually feels like to ride a new saddle the first 2 weeks or so. A quality saddle remains the same saddle, long enough for your body to adapt to it. It also allows the break in to happen in pre-designed ways, which means that break in of your new saddle does not equate to break down on your new saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, although I know you were not asking about comfort, if you are adapted to your saddle, it will be more comfortable. If you are comfortable you will enjoy riding more. If you enjoy riding more, you will ride more, with all of the associated benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, these same points can be made regarding saddles, gloves, grips, shoes, pedals, cycling shorts, jerseys, and any other point of contact with the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T20:03:00.503" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T20:03:00.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4400" CreationDate="2011-06-22T14:14:04.957" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The saddle isn't just a point of contact for riding, it also gets to lean against walls when the bike is parked and maybe against the ground/floor (if the bike is in the ownership of a youngster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally road bikes do not get thrown to the ground every five minutes, but, a BMX, or other child's bike, will. For this reason it is horses for courses, a quality seat for a BMX doesn't have to be comfy at all, a quality seat on a touring bike should not come apart when someone tries to lift the pannier-laden bike by the seat and a quality seat on an entry-level hybrid bike should survive wall-park abrasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What amazes me is why there are something like 4096 different types of bicycle seat on the marketplace. Is that level of product diversity necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As for that talk of 'erectile dysfunction' being promulgated by bike seats and cycling, there is no way that can be true with modern saddles in the use of healthy-weight riders. Any talk of 'erectile dysfunction' is to be instantly dismissed as General Motors propaganda, as disseminated by the old-fashioned car-driving journa-fogeys at The Sun.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Agree that old saddles had a problem as the pelvic bones were not supported, but you cannot get those older saddles anymore (unless you include the Brooks dead-cow and rivets efforts).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T14:14:04.957" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-22T20:23:49.110" Score="4" ViewCount="6696" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I broke a spoke a week ago, and when I put a new spoke in you know I trued it. Now, a week later, the bike feels like a kayak, because the back wheel is not very straight. Any idea why this would happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hybrid road/mountain bike, single speed. Pretty tall, like a 62cm frame I think, with relatively small wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I rode the bike with a broken spoke for another 30 miles or so before I had a chance to do something about it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wheel got so out of whack with my broken spoke that it caused trouble with the rear brake: if I jammed the rear brake, the brake pad would slip off the wheel. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything was fine up until the past few days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still rideable, and when I have a moment I'm going to go to the shop and true it again (hey, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerowave.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikerowave&lt;/a&gt;!), but it seems like a waste of time to do that if there's some essential problem I'm ignoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1686" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T20:30:42.583" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T20:07:56.000" Title="Why does my back wheel keep becoming untrue?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4404" CreationDate="2011-06-22T20:28:35.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A new spoke will stretch when newly installed in a wheel. This is expected. If you still experience the wheel going out of true after a week or two, there may be something else going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T20:28:35.273" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4390" CreationDate="2011-06-22T20:57:49.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may have different needs than you, but I'd say the following is essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Front light&lt;/strong&gt; - Law requires it in California, so I'm told. I use a flashlight + duct tape, and though you can probably spend quite a bit on lights, I don't see the difference as long as it has a filament or whatever that emits the [portion of electromagnetic radiation that is visible to the human eye][1] ;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Back light&lt;/strong&gt; - Self-preservation requires it at night. In many conditions, you can be invisible to cars, so its probably worth the investment. Get a blinky red one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;U-Lock combo&lt;/strong&gt; - If you're gonna leave it outside, pretty essential. It's good to remember, though, that how and where you lock your bike will do more to protect it than an expensive lock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for all this clothes business, I don't get it. I ride in jeans with the one leg rolled up, and that suits me fine. Also, a wrench is good to have if your chain slips and you can't be bothered to force it in like you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel the need to end this by saying &quot;but that's just me.&quot; There's tons of people who think riding without a helmet is reckless, and that the only people stupid enough to ride w/o a helmet must have sustained a brain injury while riding without a helmet. (See what I did there?) What I ride bikes for (commutin, gettin places, leavin them) may be different than what you ride bikes for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1686" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T20:57:49.783" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4410" CreationDate="2011-06-22T21:14:18.220" Score="6" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to move a trailer like this one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blocket.se/stockholm/Slap_Savsjoslapet_2008_SSLV_4_meter_33696594.htm?ca=11&amp;amp;w=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but with 4 wheels (two on both sides). I have no access to cars. The distance is about 100km or more, and I am a bit unsure how I am going to move it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iglMo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iglMo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;where I should move it on pedestrian way or on car road?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should I do it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am ready to buy any bike to move this type of things so some recommendations for this type of cargo moving with bike? Diamond-framed may not be the best option. I have some friends on the journey so I have considered to hack a dandem or tri-bicycle or weld old touring bikes together to form one larger X-cycle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have noticed that my bicycle brakes are not really enough to move larger cargos, any ideas how to upgrade brakes in bike or some hack to the trailer? Or how many bicycles would be enough to stop this at least 1.3Mg beast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think we are going to move during night anyway but we may need to use some car roads - what kind precautions should I do with the trailer besides installing a lot of blinking lights and reflectors?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T20:44:19.147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T22:47:19.657" Title="How can many people move a car -trailer with bicycles?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4407" CreationDate="2011-06-22T22:07:14.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moving this with bicycles sounds horribly unsafe. I recommend against it, and here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tandems often use drum brakes, particularly on the rear wheels, but if the trailer you're moving is as heavy as most auto/truck trailers, you're going to have a difficult time stopping it from moving, particularly when going downhill, even with a drum brake system built for bicycles. You'd need to find a way to trigger the trailer's brakes from the bikes, possibly to work simultaneously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the picture, it looks like this trailer is as wide as an automobile, perhaps wider. I don't think you'd be able to fit that on a sidewalk/pavement in any case, local regulations aside. (Most locales encourage bicycles from riding on the sidewalk/pavement, and sometimes prohibit it entirely. It's difficult to say more without knowing what locations you'll be passing through.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that if you lose control of the trailer, not only could the trailer be damaged, but the cyclist(s) could be injured, and another driver or a bystander could easily be hurt or killed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It it's vital to have the trailer moved, I would seriously consider having it moved on a flatbed truck rather than tow it with bicycles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-23T03:34:17.460" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T03:34:17.460" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4407" CreationDate="2011-06-22T23:20:56.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put an advert up with your local paper/Craigslist and offer the free use of the trailer on the proviso that they collect it for you. There are always people wanting to move house etc. and they may be glad of the favour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T23:20:56.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4407" CreationDate="2011-06-22T23:21:18.093" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first question is what the legal situation is. I am fairly sure that in Australia that trailer would not be a legal bike trailer because of the overhang past the rear axle, but the police would stop you because it's too large (they generally don't know this part of the law very well). Either way, I doubt you'd get far before they took an interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can tow it legally, I'd look at how to activate the brakes in the trailer. You will need to be able to do that relatively easily, because those will be your only effective brakes. That trailer will push a bicycle with it's wheels locked up quite easily. So, make the trailer brakes work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I would build a quick semitrailer-style load tricycle, either a tandem or triplet. Somewhere on the net are photos of a bike shop move (in north america?) where they built a couple of semi-trailer style trike+trailer units for the heavy stuff (workbenches at 200kg+). Broadly, a solid axle between two wheelbarrow-style wheels, one side driven, very low geared, upright trike. You would probably want gears in there, but the main thing is to mount the towball as close to that axle as you can. Have the rear rider operate the (trailer) brakes, and the front rider operate the steering and gears. I would fit brakes to the trike but only for legal reasons and so it can be ridden separately from the trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the weight of the trailer and the slope of the hills, you may find that you need a few extra riders to help push the trailer up hills. Either way, walking speed is a fair guess at how fast you'll go. Partly because you don't want to go faster than that down hills either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably have better luck if you do it as a charity ride - it doesn't really matter which charity, just pick one you kind like who will let you use their name and start advertising &quot;fund raising ride - five idiots pull a big trailer from Here to There using a tricycle&quot;. With a little effort I'm sure you could even make enough money for them to be really happy :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T23:21:18.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4412" CreationDate="2011-06-23T02:41:26.120" Score="5" ViewCount="26265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find any nice video or pictures tutorial that explains how to connect and disconnect a &lt;em&gt;quick release chain link&lt;/em&gt;. Am I not finding anything because it has another more common name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you connect and disconnect a quick release chain link?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1621" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T22:30:24.423" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T22:30:24.423" Title="How do you connect and disconnect a quick release chain link?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;&lt;reference&gt;&lt;master-link&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2011-06-23T03:42:04.597" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're more commonly called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=chain%20master%20link&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;master link&lt;/a&gt;s and sites like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-installation-derailleur-bikes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt; one have detailed instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can edit in more detailed questions about the actual problems you're having that would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Park Tool Website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some chain manufacturers offer a &quot;master-link&quot; to join the chain. Be sure to read the manufacturers directions. Typically, the bicycle chain ends must have inner plates on each end. In other words, neither chain end has an outer plate with a rivet. The link comes in two pieces.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Obufw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Install one piece through inside face of chain, and install second piece through outside of the other chain end. Engage the two pieces so link rivet mates to link plate hole. Pull chain to lock the link. The best method to do this is to move master link to top section between rear cogs and front chainrings and press hard on pedals. This insures the link is fully locked. Inspect link before riding the chain.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bi9BG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Some master links are reusable, while others are disposable and should be replaced after each removal. Check manufacturer's specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="1717" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T04:44:39.910" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T04:44:39.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2011-06-23T03:42:29.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not totally sure I follow the question, but if you're looking to take a chain the currently does not have a qr link and add one, you'll need a chain link tool to first remove one of the links in your chain. You do this by lining up the pin pushing part on a pin and then cranking it until the pin is all the way out. Do the same on the other side, so one complete link is out. Now put the qr link in that spot and slide the side of the link that as the &quot;c&quot; part down over the pins. the open part of the link will pinch one of the pins in a little grove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the site you sent's pix while reading this, I hope it makes more sense. Good luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T03:42:29.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4411" CreationDate="2011-06-23T03:43:05.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're looking for is also called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4483#4483&quot;&gt;master link&lt;/a&gt; chain. A search on Youtube brings up several videos: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/hXSee4C6pyE?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/JxhNvX5iISY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:02:42.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4404" CreationDate="2011-06-23T03:44:50.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your wheel may have really uneven tension on the spokes. The rear wheel is &quot;dished&quot; so the spokes on the side with the freewheel/cassette will be shorter/tighter/more vertical. If you notice spokes on the same side having more tension than others, that may be part of the problem. A shop will have a tension gauge to help diagnose the potential issue too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T03:44:50.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4404" CreationDate="2011-06-23T07:47:02.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly suspect your spoke tension is quite uneven. If you installed the new spoke by just adding the new spoke, then that's even more likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wheel with uneven tension will do exactly what you describe. There should be only two different spoke tensions in a rear wheel - the tight side and the loose side. Wheelbuilders will keep working a wheel until they get +/- 10% or so. Smaller range on a new wheel, wider on a cheap and/or old one (wheelbuilders rarely build cheap new wheels, those are made by machines). If you don't have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/spoke-tension-meter-tm-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tensiometer (Park tool one, ~$60)&lt;/a&gt; you can possibly do it by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pitch of the spokes&lt;/a&gt; but I've had little luck with this - it's more affected by where the spokes cross each other than by spoke tension (ymmv, I have perfect pitch and am in other ways fussy, plus I have access to a tensiometer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with older wheels is often just getting the nipples to move on the spokes. That can take lube and time. Often more time than the cost of a new wheel. But if it's your time, that's &quot;free&quot;. Again, use a grease-based chain lube (or for once, WD-40 or similar) on the spoke/nipple junction and also the rim/nipple area. Then work each spoke gently (less than half a turn) until the spoke moves on the nipple. Realistically, gently is an exaggeration - you don't have a lot to lose by breaking the spoke doing this, except that breakage normally happens on marginal wheels (cheap and broken), so you run the risk of breaking enough to make the wheel uneconomic to repair even if you're only paying for new spokes not labour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet now is to make sure as many nipples are free as possible, then take it to a bike shop. It'll cost $30-$100 to fix, but most shops will let you say &quot;spend $X on it, then call me&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point the wheel is so warped and unreliable that you just need to buy a new one. I think you're 90% there right now. It depends on how much you're a gambler... you might spend $30 and get the wheel nicely trued and solve your problem. Or you might spend (say) $50, get the call and they say &quot;it's definitely broken now&quot; and you have to buy a new wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're short on money another second hand wheel might work, and it'll definitely be cheaper than a new one. Check your local tip shop/ bicycle recycler for cheap ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: tensiometers are standard bike shop tools, the cheap Park ones work pretty well and are only about $US60 online. The more expensive ones don't work a huge amount better but cost a lot more ($US300+). I've compared a DT Swiss micrometer-based tool to a Park one and no-one in the shop could reliably measure more accurately with the DT one. It was harder to use and heavier so we went back to the cheap one.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tTAE9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Park tools spoke tensiometer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T04:20:10.087" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T04:20:10.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4400" CreationDate="2011-06-23T08:12:51.600" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main advantages are better power delivery and lower rider fatigue. Also better aerodynamics - you'll note that all of the speed records and many of the marathon records are held by bikes or trikes that have proper saddles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Rl75.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a good saddle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T08:12:51.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2011-06-23T10:42:19.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is handy &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pressure-calculator.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pressure-calculator.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1689" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T10:42:19.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3219" CreationDate="2011-06-23T10:51:38.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For protection from slow speed falls and stumbles in winter football (soccer) goalkeepers kit is cheap, warm and has protection for knees, hips and elbows. Its very popular for cycle speedway racing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1689" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T10:51:38.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4390" CreationDate="2011-06-23T12:13:01.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of pairs of nitrile gloves can make you look more civilized if you have to faff about with the mucky bits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.justgloves.co.uk/Nitrile-Gloves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.justgloves.co.uk/Nitrile-Gloves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1689" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T05:06:23.637" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T05:06:23.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2011-06-23T13:12:15.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water bottle&lt;/strong&gt;. A really cheap accessory that makes cycling more enjoyable; it increases stamina, too ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJsQt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Water Bottle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T13:12:15.043" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-23T13:12:15.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4424" CreationDate="2011-06-23T21:28:38.423" Score="21" ViewCount="242905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/09/09_dew_en.cfm&quot;&gt;2009 Kona Dew&lt;/a&gt; and it comes with regular rim brakes. I'm perfectly happy with them so far, but have been wondering if disc brakes would come handy when it rains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is involved in converting a bike from rim brakes to disc brakes (mechanical or hydraulic)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that is feasible, or am I better off buying another bike that already has disc brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="210" LastEditorUserId="7415" LastEditDate="2013-08-12T20:33:39.783" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T20:33:39.783" Title="Converting bike from rim brakes to disc brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4423" CreationDate="2011-06-23T22:04:06.333" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your frame and fork already have disc tabs, which is the first step.  The second is a disc wheelset, which it does not appear that the stock wheels are.  Disc hubs come in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4425#4425&quot;&gt;two varieties&lt;/a&gt;: the common six-bolt ISO and the proprietary Shimano Centerlock, the former are identifiable by a large six-bolt-hole protrusion on the left (non-drive) side of the bike.  The latter have a rubber cover over a smaller splined mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a new wheelset is selected, you'll need a set of calipers and disc rotors.  The Avid BB7 is a popular mechanical disc caliper, and will work with your existing linear-pull brake levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installation is fairly straightforward, but since it involves braking it's worth involving a professional if you're at all in doubt of your mechanical aptitude.  The disc rotors bolt to the wheel, the calipers to the frame.  The old v-brakes are removed.  New cables and housing are routed from the levers to the calipers and the calipers are adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost-wise, if you're happy with the bicycle otherwise it's not a poor investment - good wheels and brakes can be moved to future bikes if you later decide to upgrade the frame.  The ideal time would be to consider when the wheels already need to be replaced due to wear, since the new wheelset will represent the majority of the upgrade cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T22:45:52.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-06-23T22:45:04.737" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Disc Hub&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc hubs come in two varieties: 6-bolt ISO and Shimano's proprietary Centerlock spline.  Converters exist to allow a Centerlock hub to accept a six-bolt disc rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6-bolt ISO:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K5YZj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ISO disc hub&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shimano Centerlock:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;(Note, centerlock hubs ship with a rubber cover over the centerlock splines).&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hV45O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Centerlock disc hub&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T02:37:23.440" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-23T22:45:04.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4430" CreationDate="2011-06-24T10:39:23.960" Score="8" ViewCount="11051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying the 2010 model of the Pinarello FP2. They're substantially cheaper than this years model (~£700). However, they only have the 55cm frames in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 6ft tall, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/product_document/file/ab8/6a9/d67/103/pinarello-road-bike-sizing-chart.pdf&quot;&gt;looking at this size chart&lt;/a&gt; it says the 55cm frame is suitable for people up to 5ft 9in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Would it be advisable for me to get a bike of this size?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it going to cause me problems? Is it not such an issue? After all it's a massive saving but if the bikes unrideable (for whatever reason) then it's not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T22:54:35.203" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T22:54:35.203" Title="Should I get a bike that's too small for me? " Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2011-06-24T10:51:15.610" Score="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;Michelin says this for road bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UdRE3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Air guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1699" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T10:51:15.610" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4428" CreationDate="2011-06-24T10:51:19.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding a bike in the wrong size (either too small or too large) for long periods can lead to all kinds of lower back, upper back, neck and shoulder issues en various leg injuries, mostly in the knee. Also, your power output can be reduced significantly. So a properly sized bicycle is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &quot;properly sized&quot; really depends on the rider. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of good info, but mostly it comes down to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try the bicycle to find out how it feels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compare it to your current bicycle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you can compensate some sizing issues in this specific case with a longer stem and/or higher saddle. How this works also depends on the relative length of your legs and your upper body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T10:51:19.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4210" CreationDate="2011-06-24T11:17:33.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a recent build with a surly cross check but was also checking the soma double cross with discs and the manufacturer specs said Avid Shorty Ulitimate cantis were 260g/pair vs the Avid BB7 mechanical disk rotors &amp;amp; pads/mounts at 1060g/pair. This is just those components and not the frame tabs or disc hubs which might also contribute small amounts to the disc set up. Those are among of the lightest cantis available and mechanical discs are heavier than top of the line hydraulic discs (eg Avid XX at 560g/pair) so the difference is not always that much. I don't know any hydraulics that run on drops so I went with the cantis and never had any no regrets. Even deep mud is not a problem, I just learned how to brake differently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1700" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T11:17:33.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4433" CreationDate="2011-06-24T13:36:43.423" Score="4" ViewCount="8109" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brakes pads of my front brake are off center, so far that when the brake is disengaged the right pad rubs slightly against the wheel even though there is plenty of clearance between the wheel and the left pad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, my bike has single-pivot caliper brakes. They look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ljJKG.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Single-pivot caliper brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Site&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I re-center my brakes so that there is enough clearance for both pads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastActivityDate="2020-06-13T22:12:07.393" Title="Fixing off-center Caliper brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4432" CreationDate="2011-06-24T14:15:55.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bolt that runs through the brake has a couple of flats on it just in front of where it meets the front fork.  You can put a spanner (of the thin variety) onto these and align the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the proper way to do it, but this is not always practical. The other approach is to tighten the allen key bolt at the back of the fork and then undo it by a small amount, the small amount required to lift the left-hand-pad (as seen from the front) off the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before doing any of the above it is worth considering the wheel - is it in the fork properly? The best way to ensure the wheel is correctly in place is to put the bike on the ground with your weight on the handlebars. Now push the quick-release skewer tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have quick release on your front wheel then you can tighten up the nuts on each side bit by bit, again with weight on handlebars so that it does not end up being to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T14:15:55.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4455" CreationDate="2011-06-24T14:50:28.353" Score="20" ViewCount="51921" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently changed the default 700x35 tires and 35mm Schrader inner tube to 700x25 slicks with 25mm Presta inner tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However whilst fitting the new tire and inner tube, I noticed that the inner tube had about an inch or two of excess length to it. This mean I had to tuck it into the tire, doubled back on itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've doubled checked the inner tube packaging and it's definitively for a 700 diameter rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presumed that it would sort itself out when I pumped up the tires. Is this normal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T16:44:28.713" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T06:21:00.490" Title="Should inner tube have excess length?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;presta&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-24T14:58:07.753" Score="6" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been commuting daily (Apart from holidays, illness and some other exceptions) for the past year, riding 12 miles daily (6 miles with 500ft height gain coming in, 6 miles 232ft height gain riding back) on a hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently there have been times when I've been feeling quite run down by the weekend, lacking energy. It could just be a virus doing the rounds, but it made me wonder if there was a specific diet or dietary supplement that would be of benefit to a daily commuteer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T22:51:56.113" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T15:30:40.380" Title="Daily commuting - are dietary supplements recommended?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2011-06-24T15:33:13.857" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The canonical recommendation is for &quot;a complete and balanced diet&quot;. Whatever 'supplements' you might need depend on what your current diet is. The recommendations I've been given (I'm 50 and commute 24 miles/day) from a dietitian are vitamin D (because I live in Canada - I suspect that recommendation is obsolete currently while I'm commuting 2 hours/day in summer) and (based on blood test results) perhaps a bit more iron (I'm vegetarian). Some of the important components to consider, IMO, include water, salt, carbohydrates, and, rest/sleep. In summary, perhaps you should talk with a doctor or dietitian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to discover what your current diet is (which is presumably one important question before deciding how to supplement it - an alternative might be physical exam, blood tests), I quite recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dietorganizer.com/&quot;&gt;DietOrganizer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T15:33:13.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2011-06-24T15:42:27.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good advice.  The entire field of &quot;supplements&quot; is a can of worms that might better be asked in the &quot;skeptic&quot; area...  Although it's a multi-billion dollar insdustry with loads of people having almost-religious fervor....Scientific studies keep showing little or no benefit from most all of the various nostrums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T15:42:27.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4432" CreationDate="2011-06-24T15:45:03.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type of spanner (wrench) to use is what's called a &quot;cone wrench&quot;.  It's a very thin open-end wrench that's normally used for holding the movable &quot;cone&quot; in wheel-bearing sets while the lock-nut is tightened.&#xA;They come in various sizes, you'll have to check to get (0r borrow) the right one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T15:45:03.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4432" CreationDate="2011-06-24T15:48:16.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with what Mathew said, it is sometimes helpful to use a wrench on both the front and back bolts simultaneously to rotate the entire brake in the fork to the proper location. You risk loosening the brake arms this way, but if you are careful this usually works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is assuming you don't have access to the spanner wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1589" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T15:48:16.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4428" CreationDate="2011-06-24T15:49:01.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As jilles says.  A few CM one way or the other will not be critical as appropriate changes can be made in the adjustable parts.  Stem, saddle, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current roadster (which I've been riding for about 10 years) is technically a tad too large for me, but it's completely comfortable with the adjustments I've made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T15:49:01.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4434" CreationDate="2011-06-24T16:30:26.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't normal, and will cause a problem. Tubes only expand when you put air in them, and will never get shorter. I'd try a different brand of tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1704" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T16:30:26.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4428" CreationDate="2011-06-24T16:45:08.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proper size is definitely important--it's not a good deal, no matter what the price, if it doesn't fit you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, top tube length is the one that's most important to get right. There's a bit of latitude for adjusting the reach to the bars by changing stem length but this will change the handling dynamics so you don't really have more than a couple cm of adjustment. Adjusting the reach by moving your seat forward or back isn't really an option. The seat positioning should be largely determined in relation to the pedals. If the seat's not positioned properly with respect to the pedals, I feel like I'm constantly sliding forward or backward as I ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case--compare the FP2 geometry specs to your current bike, or take a ride on a bike with similar geometry. You can also try an online fit calculator, &lt;a href=&quot;http://competitivecyclist.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;competitivecyclist.com&lt;/a&gt; for example, to give you an idea of what size you should be looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, there's no substitute for actually riding the bike in question, though some fit problems only become apparent after an hour or more on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the FP2 geometry, the top tube seems long-ish for the nominal size, and the sizing chart seems to run a little big. As an example, I'm 5'8&amp;quot; tall and generally prefer about a 54-55 cm top tube. Therefore, I'd probably be most comfortable on a 53 cm FP2 even though I'm 2&amp;quot; taller than the max recommended height on the sizing chart you linked. This is all, of course, specific to my preferred riding position and body geometry but suggests that the 55 cm frame might not be out of the question for a six-footer. Make sure you're comfortable on the bike (or one of similar geometry) before plunking down the cash, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://peterwhitecycles.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peter White Cycles&lt;/a&gt; has a pretty comprehensive article on bike fit that I learned a lot from--it's more qualitative in its approach but gives a good understanding of things to take into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short--maybe, but it depends on your preferred riding position and body geometry.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T16:45:08.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4342" CreationDate="2011-06-24T17:07:15.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a couple of the previous generation Filzer computers (DB4zl, wired, no cadence) and have had to replace a wiring harness. They don't take kindly to abuse. The computers themselves seem to hold up pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wireless can be prone to interference, particularly from high-power LED headlights--buck regulators can emit a lot of stray RF. I prefer to stick with wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T17:07:15.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2011-06-24T17:26:50.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Dietary supplements are not recommended. Just the all-you-can-eat I-don't-have-to-count-calories cyclist-special-diet of a hearty, big, evening meal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years ago, when I did a shorter journey than yourself but with a fair amount of free-wheeling/climbing I asked my doctor why I was getting so many colds/feeling-run down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He explained about my immune system, the cold morning air and so on. No references unfortunately, however, you might want to ask your doctor, and in the general context of your riding + times of riding. It is a fair call to ask your doctor what could be going on, a lot of people clutter up doctors waiting rooms with more frivolous complaints. Post what you find back on here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T17:26:50.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4446" CreationDate="2011-06-24T18:35:08.550" Score="6" ViewCount="11944" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the sag of the new 120mm fork will be set to the same as the old 100mm fork and headset spacers will remain constant, will the geometry of my bike change moving from a 100mm travel fork to a 120mm of travel?  Is this as easy as adding 20mm to the height of the front end, or does the &quot;height&quot; vary by make and model?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T10:16:25.353" Title="Will changing suspension fork travel change geometry of bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4445" CreationDate="2011-06-24T21:10:02.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the headtube is at an angle, it will not raise the bike as much as if it was perpendicular to the ground.  How much height that would add will depend on what angle your headtube is at, probably something around 70d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, adding travel will cause your bike to have slower handling.  It will make it more stable in a straight line, but more effort will be needed to change direction.  It will also move you farther back in the cockpit with may make it lift the front wheel more on steep climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, by adding this travel, it will probably void the warranty on your frame because it is putting stresses on the frame that are outside what it was designed for.  There is also a possibility that you could stress the headtube to where it breaks, but 20mm probably wouldn't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T21:10:02.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4342" CreationDate="2011-06-25T01:50:06.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it have to be a &quot;bike computer&quot;?  I use a &lt;strong&gt;Garmin Edge 205&lt;/strong&gt;.  I got tired of messing with magnets that wouldn't stay in the exact right magic spot.  I just sync with the satellites (which takes a few minutes) and I'm done.  The only piece in the system is the unit itself; no wires or magnets or other such stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed  [yes]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avg. Speed  [yes]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance  [yes]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time riding  [yes]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance for the season  [yes, with sync software]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time  [yes]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wireless (optional)  [no wires needed]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heart beat monitor  [some models]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cadence (Pedal rotations)  [some models do]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GPS  [obviously yes]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it has&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compass direction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time of day&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time of sunset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;% grade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On-screen map (that is, it shows your route and any waypoints you've made; it's not like a map showing streets and things)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comes with software that syncs your data to PC software, showing you your route (on a very rudimentary street map) and your miles, average speed, maximum speed, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, almost forgot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under $100  [...nope]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, can't help you on that last one.  The least expensive one Garmin has currently is the Edge 500, which lists at $249; you can find one on Amazon used for $180.  I got my Edge 205 refurbished at $150.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, though, it's worth it not to mess with wires anymore, and to get to have a map of my ride, something you obviously won't get with a standard bicycle computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="577" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T01:50:06.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2011-06-25T06:09:46.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on what you eat already, if you get enough energy and Vitamins/minerals from normal food then your probably doing ok, guess taking multi- vitamin wont do any harm. 12 Miles is not that much, takes you how long an hour? Try going to the gym 4 times a week after a days work, you'll feel tired too by the time Friday comes around, specially if you have had virus, can sometimes take a good few weeks to get over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try not cycling for a few weeks, go take the car (figuratively, I would never recommend some one drive if they can cycle), see how you feel. I know how I feel after being away from home and not getting my daily cycle, I may not be physically as tired but I sure feel slower, discontent and apathetic....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about doing a go slow week, see if you can get rest from cycling slowly or take the bus for a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T06:09:46.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2011-06-25T08:43:47.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Eat a balanced diet&quot; is the best general recommendation.  One does need to keep in mind, though, that exercise at the level you practice can expose any one of numerous possible medical conditions, particularly of the &quot;metabolic disorder&quot; category.  Generally these cause muscle pain, though, rather than simple fatigue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are other categories.  At one point I was suffering fatigue similar to what you describe (in similar conditions) and it turned out to be incipient post-polio syndrome.  (It's largely controlled with several drugs, but is encroaching more and more as I age.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But also understand that &quot;energy level&quot; is closely related to your degree of stimulation, and if you're simply not doing anything that interests you on the weekends you'll feel less energetic.  And of course everyone needs some &quot;down time&quot;, and it's natural, in a sort of meta-circadian rhythm way, for it to occur on the weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T08:43:47.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2011-06-25T09:02:19.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, generally run them at the sidewall rated pressure, or maybe 5psi under.  If you want a softer ride (at the expense of higher rolling resistance) you can drop the pressure maybe 20% from it's sidewall rating -- no more (unless you're a fairly small person).  Running 30-40% below rated pressure on road tires greatly increases the chance of &quot;snake bite&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wider the tire the lower the rated pressure, generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about puncture resistance, buy Kevlar belted tires -- they're just about bullet-proof in normal road use.  (I haven't had a puncture in maybe 5000 miles riding Kevlar tires.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run my 35mm tires at 95-100 psi -- they're rated 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T09:02:19.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3219" CreationDate="2011-06-25T09:12:28.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I avoid riding on ice these days (way too old for that anymore), but I've only fallen three times in ten years and about 10,000 miles of riding.  Two of those were in the first week of using clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick with clipless pedals is to unclip BEFORE you need to.  Generally you can unclip (at least one foot) and ride with the arch of your foot for a considerable distance without difficulty, and you need to get into the habit of doing this as you approach difficult intersections, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My third fall was a &quot;planned&quot; one four years ago when I had to bail out on a steep hill (my old polio is catching up with me).  Skinned up my leg a bit but I don't recall any arm injuries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T09:12:28.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4384" CreationDate="2011-06-25T09:30:45.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rule is a full race minus one ball.  But if the race holds, say, 20.5 balls (ie, has space for more than 1/2 additional ball but not a full additional ball) then you can use as many as will fit (without forcing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There probably is a (very small) rolling resistance advantage in using fewer balls (down to perhaps 3/4 full) but it would be at the expense of increased wear on the cones and races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that you should try to use all new balls or all balls that are originally from the same axle.  The balls wear slightly over time and adding a new ball to a bunch of used ones will mean the new ball is slightly larger and will create additional wear and resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should use a good bicycle bearing grease for the bearings.  This will resemble your standard black/brown/gray automotive grease but is better formulated for the conditions in a bicycle hub.  At the very least use the automotive grease -- I would not expect petroleum jelly to hold up very well in a bike axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T09:30:45.697" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3678" CreationDate="2011-06-25T09:38:52.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Terry makes bikes especially for women, but they start at over $1000.  A used Terry (check Craig's List, et al) might be the ticket, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terry makes their bikes with smaller wheels than the standard 700/27inch standard for men's bikes.  And on some models the front tire is smaller than the back, to allow the top bar to be lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a low-cost option, probably finding a good &quot;youth&quot; bike and adapting it would be the way to go -- look for 24&quot; models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(One thing you should do is determine her &quot;stand-over&quot; height to size the bike frame.  Easy enough to do with a broomstick and yardstick -- and with a few romantic possibilities to boot.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T09:38:52.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4445" CreationDate="2011-06-25T10:16:25.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In practice, a 20mm travel gain is within acceptable use range for almost any bike. It will change the geometry, but only slightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will also change how the bike handles for steering and braking, but again, only slightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't adding a huge amount of weight or leverage to the bike, there should be no issue with the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should make sure the setup is correct for the new fork. It will not have the same sag and spring rate(most likely), and should not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably take it a bit easy on your bike for a ride or two, while you get the feel for how your bike will handle with the new fork.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, enjoy the new fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T10:16:25.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4434" CreationDate="2011-06-25T10:32:58.260" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tube should not have excess length, and doubling on itself will cause the tire to feel uneven while riding, as well as increase the likelihood of flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the tube is the correct size for the tire, as you said it was, there are 2 common causes for this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you installed the tube without inflating it first, just a tiny amount, then it hasn't got the shape to sit in the tire completely, and it will appear to be too long. It isn't, just add enough air to the tube to give it a little shape and try it again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you did that already, then in the process of inflating the tube to make easier to install in the tire, you have probably inflated it too much, and so it has gotten larger. It's not permanent, just let the air out and inflate it only enough to give it shape before installing it in the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these don't work, there is likely a problem in manufacturing, and you should get the tube exchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="4353" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T13:08:47.063" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T13:08:47.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4501" CreationDate="2011-06-25T10:49:51.213" Score="3" ViewCount="2997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently restarted cycling to work. I did four round trips. After riding back from the fourth trip, my stomach muscles started to tense and cramp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard that stretching before and after a ride, as well as remaining hydrated, could prevent this. Is there anything else I could do to prevent cramps? I intend on riding four days next week too because of the lively feeling I gain from cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing abnormal about my medical circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride 9mph on average in one direction (using cycle paths rather than roads) and slightly less coming back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A one-way trip is under four miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1361" LastEditorUserId="1361" LastEditDate="2011-07-09T11:30:32.693" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T11:30:32.693" Title="What cause and cure for tense or cramped stomach muscles?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="14" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4456" CreationDate="2011-06-25T14:20:24.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course, as with any exercise, stretching is worthwhile. Mostly a few slow warm up laps around a short course, or taking it a bit easy the first few trips out, as you get used to riding a bike again. Mostly, try riding 2 or 3 days a week, with a rest day between, until you get fit enough to ride comfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T14:20:24.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4456" CreationDate="2011-06-25T16:39:59.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just warm up on the bike, taking the first ~1 mile of my commute fairly gently.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T16:39:59.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4434" CreationDate="2011-06-25T22:46:07.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've personally seen a tube too-long when not inflated, turn into &quot;perfect fit&quot; with just a bit of air in it; just enough air to give it a circular shape if you lay it on the floor.  I just blow lightly into the open presta valve - no need to use a pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And push the tube into the cavity of the tire, don't try to &quot;seat&quot; it on the rim.  (caveat: my experience is with larger MTB tubes &amp;amp; tires)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1674" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T22:46:07.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-26T01:27:45.560" Score="17" ViewCount="64077" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, this is a follow up to this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4404/why-does-my-back-wheel-keep-becoming-untrue&quot;&gt;Why does my back wheel keep becoming untrue?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The short version is I bought a used bike a few weeks ago, I broke a spoke on the back wheel, replaced the spoke, trued the wheel with a tensiometer, and found that it had become untrue again. The diagnosis was either the wheel was bent, or that the spokes were just settling and re-truing it would sort out the problem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been riding it over a week with an untrue back wheel (aka &lt;em&gt;Kayak Mode&lt;/em&gt;). Today, I checked the wheel because the trouble had become a big issue again, and found I had two (!) broken spokes since replacing the first broken one a week or two ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why are my spokes snapping like spaghetti? I guess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because I was riding without truing the wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because I'm riding too hard (i.e. coming off curbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some combination of the two, or something else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pal,&#xA;JKD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;POSTSCRIPT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;July 28, 2011&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, thanks everybody.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to follow up for people who find this question later, and describe the rest of my experience with the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept breaking spokes after replacing them, and by the time I got to the shop again, I had broken five (!) more. They looked at it, I looked at it, and I ended up replacing the wheel. It rides fine now, and as far as I can tell, it was just an old wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kazah!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1686" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T08:43:48.273" Title="Why am I breaking a ridiculous number of spokes?" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2011-06-26T01:39:57.533" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wheel is poorly built -- over tensioned, improperly crossed, wrong side of the flange, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're too heavy for the wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're too hard on the wheels (for the ruggedness of the particular wheels).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spokes are corroded or otherwise reaching end of life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding without truing the wheel doesn't help the situation, but wouldn't by itself cause a problem unless the tension was so far off that a few spokes were bearing the lion's share of the load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T01:39:57.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4434" CreationDate="2011-06-26T01:46:18.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some (many) tubes are made to fit too wide a range of tire sizes and will tend to be a bit on the long side inside some tires.  One should make a point to only inflate the tube enough to fill it out before installing (so as not to stretch it further), then make sure during installation that it's not buckled or doubled on itself at any point inside the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tube is buckled/doubled anywhere not only will you have a &quot;lump&quot; while riding, you'll also have a flat tire in a few dozen miles of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T01:46:18.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2011-06-26T05:21:38.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue with a set of wheels. I was breaking a spoke every week or two. My advice was that it was a cheaply built wheel with weak spokes. Whenever I replaced a spoke I marked it and I confirmed that it was always the original spokes that were snapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I upgraded to a new set of wheels and haven't had any trouble since. I'd suggest having a good hard look at the bike and either buying new wheels or upgrading to a better quality bike. Wheels are a pretty safe investment because you can transfer them to a new (similar) bike relatively simply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T05:21:38.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-26T06:34:11.707" Score="10" ViewCount="2896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cyclops fluid trainer, and for several months each year I only ride on the trainer. Every time I hook the bike up to the trainer, the trainer bends to accommodate the bike. Is it better for the bike and the trainer (overall) to leave the bike on the trainer for several months at a time or take it off the trainer everyday after my workout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video of the bike being placed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHvoOnLgsL8&quot;&gt;into the trainer&lt;/a&gt;: skip to the 1min,20sec mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Releasing the pressure between the tire and the roller daily is a no-brainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1339" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T16:51:21.217" Title="Should I leave my bike on my trainer?" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4464" CreationDate="2011-06-26T11:59:04.157" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't be a problem to leave the &quot;quick release&quot; of the trainer engaged.  It's ultimately pressing on the ends of the axle, applying pressure the same way the skewer does.  There will be some slight compression of the axle, with added pressure on the bearings as a result, but so long as the pressure isn't extreme (ie, it's on the same order as the pressure from the skewer) then the added bearing pressure will be minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the added pressure were enough to be a concern you wouldn't even want to ride the bike in the trainer, because the bearings would drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T11:59:04.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2011-06-26T13:25:15.517" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, repeated issues with broken spokes indicates either damage to the rim, meaning that the metal hoop of the rim is physically bent while under no tension, or that the spokes are at the end of their fatigue life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any wheel has an expected use life, and usually, you will wear a track in the aluminum rim from braking forces before the fatigue life of the stainless steel spoke becomes an issue. However, if the rim is damaged, as referenced in your previous question, then the tension of the wheel cannot be evenly consistent, because some spokes must be tighter than others in order to hold the rim true and straight. If our wheel is unevenly tensioned, it allows a far greater amount of movement of each spoke during the revolution of a wheel, and this stresses the spokes beyond their designed strength. And you break more spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rim is not bent, the same issue applies, except it is smaller movement of the spokes over a far greater period of time which has pushed the spoke beyond its useful life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2020-11-15T22:11:06.210" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T22:11:06.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4464" CreationDate="2011-06-26T13:31:20.000" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will have no negative affect on your bicycle to leave the bike in a trainer for long periods, assuming you have the trainer properly adjusted for the width of your rear axle, and that you do release the roller from the tire as you noted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, in response to your comment, it will not affect the trainer at all, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-05-10T16:51:21.217" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T16:51:21.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4428" CreationDate="2011-06-26T13:37:27.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the question directly: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No it is not advisable to purchase a bicycle which is to small for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question you didn't ask:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to have someone qualified to fit you on a bicycle look at the bike, and look at you on the bike. I say it that way because asking the question tells me you aren't confident in your own opinion on the matter. So get a friend, your LBS, or pay someone to fit you professionally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No one can ultimately decide for you. It is a red flag for me that you consider it too small, and are interested anyway because of the price. (If I'm not reading too much into the question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T13:37:27.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4474" CreationDate="2011-06-26T14:15:15.387" Score="1" ViewCount="1381" Body="&lt;p&gt;Analysis paralysis.  My wife says I can spend up to $500 on a first bike.  I don't want to spend it on the wrong stuff.  My intention is to use it as the &quot;last mile&quot; on public transit on commute/weekends, quick to the grocery, leisure ride, and perhaps even intentional exercise.  I've read tons of other posts on this site talking about what to look for in the abstract.  Now I need some concrete advice.  Which bike to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 6'4&quot;, 36.5 inseam, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This calculator&lt;/a&gt; says my ideal &lt;em&gt;mountain bike&lt;/em&gt; measurements are 21.5&quot; seat tube and 180mm crank.  I don't know how that equates to a hybrid.  I think the larger frame size limits my options - bikes stores don't seem to carry these sizes.  So perhaps I have to order online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides being the best value in all parts, certain luxuries I think I'd like are wheel splash guards and a rear rack as I might commute to work.  Can these be added to any bike?  Front suspension?  Not sure if I need it, but I know to want lockout if I do.  Aluminum vs Steel?  I've read that aluminum is less shock absorbing than steel, yet my known options below are all aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I'm looking at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marinbikes.com/2011/bike_specs_compared.php?serialNum1584=1584&amp;amp;serialNum1581=1581&amp;amp;serialNum1580=1580&amp;amp;serialNum1882=1882&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.marinbikes.com/2011/bike_specs_compared.php?serialNum1584=1584&amp;amp;serialNum1581=1581&amp;amp;serialNum1580=1580&amp;amp;serialNum1882=1882&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1094212_-1_20000__400321&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1094212_-1_20000__400321&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these any better than a Dick's Sporting Goods Diamondback brand hybrid?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What others should I look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1713" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-26T14:43:16.433" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T02:52:26.647" Title="Recommendation on new $400-500 hybrid" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2018-12-01T13:34:03.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4223" CreationDate="2011-06-26T14:18:11.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason road bikes generally run narrow, high pressure tires is to benefit from lower rolling resistance. It allows higher speeds, with less effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run Schwalbe Ultremo DD tires in 23c. They have excellent, sticky feeling traction, roll fast and smooth, and use a high Thread per Inch casing which helps with flats, as well as having a Kevlar anti flat layer built into the rubber surface. The DD stands for Double Defense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's always a fine balance between flat protection and ride quality. But tire width is not a major concern, assuming you're using tires appropriate to your bike and your riding style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T20:28:49.570" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T20:28:49.570" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2011-06-26T14:25:28.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/us_en/category/10055/hybrid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scott SUB line&lt;/a&gt;. The prices vary depending on components, but you should be able to get an excellent road hybrid commuter for $500 approximately. (Keeping in mind than I'm in Dubai, and prices are not the same here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the SUB line, you would ride a XXL, FYI, assuming accurate height and inseam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, consider asking your wife if she would prefer to increase your budget now by $300 or so, or have you replace the bike due to either wear and tear, or changing necessities, in a year or so. Long term, buying a &quot;cheap&quot; bike is generally more expensive, if you ride it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, both of those bikes would be better than the Diamondback, if not by as much as I'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T14:25:28.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4513" CreationDate="2011-06-26T19:48:01.010" Score="8" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a brompton which is about 7 years old. Do I need to think about replacing the aluminium clips that lock the frame in place when unfolded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtfHB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtfHB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1391" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T16:29:56.353" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T16:29:56.353" Title="When should the metal clips be replaced on a brompton folder?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;brompton&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4223" CreationDate="2011-06-26T20:02:47.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, obviously a lot depends on how far you travel and what the roads are like -- long distances over smooth suburban highways you want a bit narrower tire than for shorter distances or rougher, more urban streets.  But generally there's no point in going narrower than about 28 -- the savings in rolling/wind resistance would only be of interest to a racer -- and likely there'd be little advantage in going below 35 or so, if the route is at all rough.  Just be sure to keep your tire pressure up in the 80-100 range, near the top of the sidewall rating (something that also is important to prevent snakebite punctures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you definitely DO want is Kevlar-belted tires.  The puncture resistance of Kevlar tires is 5-10 times greater than standard tires, especially in the narrower, lighter sizes.  My current tires (35mm Kevlar-belted touring tires) have 3000-5000 miles on them and have never had a puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T20:02:47.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2011-06-26T20:27:41.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worked on a number of Marin bikes and they are impressive IMO.  Simple, straightforward design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the bottom line.  In this price range, regardless of what you get, you are looking at a Chinese-made frame built to &quot;spec&quot; (what the company wants).   Then, various major-manufacturer components are bolted on and the bike is shipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are all really rather similar; variations in frame geometry are minimal, variations in component spec are also minimal.  It's common to throw on an &quot;upgraded&quot; rear derailleur as this catches the consumer's eye... Costs the manufacturer only a few bucks more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that these are not perfectly fine bikes... The main thing you are looking for is fit, which you already recognize as important, and the best components you can get for your money.&#xA;Most hybrids are made with a frame that leans more to the &quot;road&quot; type, with a straighter top tube.  Most mountain bikes have a more compact design with a sloping top tube so that the rider can maneuver on the bike while off-road.&#xA;The old &quot;standover height&quot; or &quot;inseam&quot; height measurements date to when road bikes were built with the standard diamond frame with a flat top tube.&#xA;Modern bike design is a little more flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T20:27:41.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2011-06-26T23:15:48.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fenders and racks can be added to most conventional &quot;diamond frame&quot; bikes (though it's nice to have a frame with the mounting bosses already present).  However, fenders are problematical on skinny-tire (less than 28mm or so) road bikes and both fenders and racks can be a problem on bikes with &quot;suspensions&quot;.  For those you need to have some assurance from a knowledgeable person that suitable components can be found and attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need aluminum or other exotic frame materials -- the additional weight of a steel frame is not that significant for your use.  Suspension is also unnecessary for street riding (and is mostly there to &quot;suck in&quot; the macho types), unless you're dealing with giant potholes, though a shock-absorbing seatpost is sometimes a worthwhile add-on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though purists will turn up their noses, it's nice to have a (decent) kickstand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your criteria, that Fuji Crosstown looks pretty good to me -- fenders, rack, shockpost, 700/35 wheels, reasonably decent components and gearing [though unnecessary AL frame and front suspension].  About all I'd likely do (if I weren't a drop handlebar guy) is change out the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T23:15:48.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-27T00:03:40.970" Score="4" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using a riding jacket but it is a bit hot during summer over long trips. I like the jacket because it is very simple, only one pocket for a key and it protects in accidents (or so I think). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now used a so-called &quot;technical t-shirt&quot; used by footballers and armies as underwear. It moves the moisture out of the skin so my body temperature is more stable even with the jacket. I have replaced my cotton t-shirt under the jacket with it and I feel much better with it. I am unsure why but it works, ideas about such layered bicycling welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been considering to buy this suit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/2010-armstrong-radio-shack-team-long-sleeves-bike-riding-suit-sports-clothes-size-l-175-180cm-52372&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but I have no experience with them earlier. What should I look for with this kind of suits? And how do layers work here? Which layer moves the moisture, not to get cold etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T19:07:55.983" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T08:00:28.003" Title="What to look for in Riding Suits?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-06-27T01:50:28.017" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Chainstay Length&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chainstay length is measured from the center of the front chainring (centered on the bottom bracket spindle) to the center of the rear cog (centered on the rear axle). Frames with vertical rear dropouts will have a fixed chainstay length, while frames with horizontal or adjustable dropouts will have an adjustable chainstay length, as the wheel hub centre can be moved to different positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chainstay length is typically measured directly from point to point but might be measured horizontally (parallel to the ground) which will give a slightly &lt;a href=&quot;https://images.app.goo.gl/yA1wkEz7rviLEg8V7&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;shorter value&lt;/a&gt;. If possible, check the geometry chart to see how it is defined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Touring bicycles typically have longer chainstays to allow for more heel clearance when riding with panniers, but this comes at the cost of increased flex due to longer tubes.  Bicycles designed for sprinting and for the track typically have extremely short chainstays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zhc0x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chainstay Length&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are formulae for calculating chain length, based on chainstay length and cog sizes, which are used in online &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/chain_length/chainlengthcalc.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;chain length calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-09-29T10:40:28.503" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-27T01:50:28.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-06-27T01:58:41.120" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Hub Skewer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A replaceable part of a hub that attaches the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3404#3404&quot;&gt;hub&lt;/a&gt;/wheel assembly to the fork or frame. Some are equipped with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/404#404&quot;&gt;quick-release mechanism&lt;/a&gt; that allow removing the wheel without tools, facilitating changing a tire, putting a bike in the back seat of a car, etc. Unfortunately, the trade-off for easy wheel removal is that it's easier for thieves to remove a quick-release wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7fs6x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T02:44:15.297" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-27T01:58:41.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4481" CreationDate="2011-06-27T02:48:17.993" Score="21" ViewCount="55348" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it worth patching a tube on a mountain bike, or just replace it with a new one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of 1/2&quot; - 3/4&quot; thorns here in Texas, and I use 26 x 1.95 tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any particular patch type/brand is better? Can you recommend any methods to cut down on punctures? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T02:52:15.950" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T21:32:06.920" Title="Patch or replace tube?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4479" CreationDate="2011-06-27T02:56:22.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although some may disagree, it's generally not worth patching a tube unless you don't have a spare tube handy. However, patch kits are so small and light that there's no reason not to carry one unless you're counting grams. It'll come in handy the day you carry a spare tube and have two flats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't recommend any brands of patch kits, since I've never even used mine. However, I suggest avoiding the very cheapest tubes, such as Forte (Performance house brand), for example. Most flats I've had have been with cheap tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, keeping your tires properly inflated won't help much with these kinds of punctures. (See the comments for another take on that, though.) I suggest you look into puncture-resistant tires. These are heavier and may slow you down a touch, but not as much as changing a flat will! (These tires still get punctures, but not nearly as often.) I'd also like to mention that I've almost never gotten a flat with tires that have full-knobby tread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you riding on- or off-road? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T15:14:47.013" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T15:14:47.013" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4479" CreationDate="2011-06-27T02:58:30.007" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally carry 2-3 spare tubes and (back when I used to get flats, before Kevlar tires) I would swap out the tube, then repair the punctured one later, at my leisure.  A simple puncture, on the tread side and not too close to the valve (or another patch), is no reason to discard a perfectly good tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to use a kit about like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/747197/novara-patch-kit&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/747197/novara-patch-kit&lt;/a&gt; -- with a tube of glue and rounded, feathered edge patches.  The glue is a PITA if you try to put the tube immediately back in the tire (unless you carry talc), but when you do it later and the glue has plenty of time to dry it works fine.  (Though place a bit of tissue over the glued area before folding up the tire for re-stowage.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(But as I indicated, the real solution is Kevlar-belted tires.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T02:58:30.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4479" CreationDate="2011-06-27T03:24:06.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carry a patch-kit while riding, but my first choice is always to replace the tube. On a longer ride, running out of spare tube(s) may leave you stranded really far from help. A patch kit can get you out of that situation without a lot of extra storage space or weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I get a flat and can fix it when I get home, I always replace the tube. The only reason why I've patched a tube at home is to make sure I know how to use the patch kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I find that my time is worth far more to me than the cost of an extra tube. And it takes me longer to patch a tube than to simply replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent flats, I use Kevlar liners. I've found for mountain biking, they are worth the weight/cost and have reduced my flats to the point where I don't worry about it anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastEditorUserId="1111" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T19:45:21.893" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T19:45:21.893" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-06-27T03:32:03.000" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Master link&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Also known as:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick link&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Breakable link&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PowerLink&lt;/strong&gt;™ (made by SRAM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MissingLink&lt;/strong&gt; (made by KMC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A link inserted onto a chain so that the chain can be both assembled and &quot;broken&quot; (disassembled) without a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3480#3480&quot;&gt;chain tool&lt;/a&gt;. A set of pliers or a flathead screwdriver is usually sufficient to disassemble a chain with a master link. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Master link pliers are available to open a master link. Note that not all designs of master link are sold as suitable for re-use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_m.html#masterlink&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u68S0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u68S0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master_link&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image from Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T11:44:41.260" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T11:44:41.260" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-27T03:32:03.000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4485" CreationDate="2011-06-27T04:20:30.840" Score="11" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is bugging me for a very long time. Look at the picture below.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Auu6q.png&quot; alt=&quot;MTB Pedals&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the area I have denoted with red circles. What is that? Does it represent something? Maybe something like position! If it represents position, which one is the right one? Should I pedal with that part in front or back? Why is that part on only side and not the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="7312" LastEditDate="2013-06-26T12:25:15.130" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T12:25:15.130" Title="Understanding MTB Pedals" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4484" CreationDate="2011-06-27T04:32:36.177" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's for mounting straps on the pedal. Here's a picture of a pedal with the straps on it: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2BPwm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which side of the pedal should you use? On some pedals, one side has an axis that protrudes a bit, and the other side is flat; the latter is the one you should use. However, if both sides of the pedal are flat, feel free to use either side of the pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T04:32:36.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-27T04:34:26.147" Score="18" ViewCount="25543" Body="&lt;p&gt;My V brakes make a lot of noise when I brake! I am annoyed by such noise, not to mention the pedestrians. My mechanic said that it will not make this noise after using it for couple of days, but it is not happening, it's already been about a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I grind the pads and then use it (I don't want to do this, it's a expensive set)? Or there is some other way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/295/rollerbrakes-very-noisy-when-used&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; but the answer was not quite helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T21:41:53.237" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T15:27:09.847" Title="Fixing noisy V brakes" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4486" CreationDate="2011-06-27T04:52:05.617" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the pads are not correctly toed in. This problem will not correct itself over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pads are parallel to the rim then when you brake the leading edge of the pad bunches up a little and bounces off the rim. Fast. So you get squealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid this you should adjust the pads so that the trailing edge is very slightly closer to the rim. Most packaged brake pads have this explained on the package, and conveniently the thickness of a bit of cardboard is a good distance to have the leading edge out from the rim. So the instructions usually say &quot;the the package as a pad&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy way is to put something under the leading edge of the pad, squeeze the brake lever slightly, then do up the mounting bolts slightly. Hold the brake pad with one hand (to stop it rotating), the spanner or allen key in your other hand, and the brake lever with your gripping hand. If you're disadvantaged in the hand department I find that doing up the brake pad lightly while holding the brake lever, then releasing the lever and holding the pad to tighten it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/linear-pull-brake-service-v-brake-type&quot;&gt;Park Tool website&lt;/a&gt; has an extended description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2mFI7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brade pad toe-in&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T04:52:05.617" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-27T06:12:46.200" Score="0" ViewCount="3382" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little over a decade ago now, I had purchased a brand-new Raleigh M50 mountain bike.  Though whether or not I really &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; a &quot;mountain bike&quot; could be very much up to question, I greatly enjoyed the bicycle regardless.  However, various circumstances have brought me to the point that I'm fairly certain it will cost me nearly as much to replace the bike as it would to get it in good operating condition again.  So, I've junked it and am considering my options for a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I did so much like that particular model, my ideal option would be for a brand-new Raleigh M50.  Since no such thing exists this year, I'm looking to you guys to help me find a comparable model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some particular features (pardon if my verbiage isn't quite industry-standard) I liked about the bike included:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click-shifting, trigger-style gear changers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finger-tip braking levers&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd actually had some trouble adjusting to these at first, with one &quot;learning experience&quot; involving an over-the-handlebars tumble at the end of a hill.  But I eventually grew to really like them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front suspension&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I like the shocks in the front, but am quite happy to have none in the rear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick-release seat and wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water bottle holster&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A minor feature to be sure, but still nice to have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A really solid-feeling frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added after some research:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical rim brakes:  I have no experience with using or servicing the newer hydraulic or disc brake systems.  I feel that I would trust the mechanical rim braking systems further, since they seem to be much simpler and therefore (I expect) more durable and reliable.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feel free to politely dispel me of any misconceptions on this point, (I'm happy to learn about the new technologies) but my stance on this in regards to a final purchase decision will not likely change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some additional points brought up by @zenbike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inexpensive, but good quality: A &quot;real&quot; bike, built by a professional, which happens to be cheap.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This was absolutely a big selling point for me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Off-road capable: Regardless of whether you need or use this option, it feels good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commute friendly: Though @zenbike disagrees, I found this bike very enjoyable during my daily commutes, which typically lasted 1/2 hour or more one-way.  I was even pretty comfortable with it on one particular 3.5-hour trip.  But, I think I did purchase a softer seat for it which probably helped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My needs when I first bought the M50 weren't too outlandish, but I liked the feeling of versatility and ruggedness the mountain bike gave me.  Though I'd probably never test it to its fullest measure, I felt security in knowing that it could certainly deal with whatever I did put it through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time, my daily commute was about 10 miles one-way.  Later, the commute was much longer but mostly done via city bus.  Still, I did occasionally get the wild idea to run the whole 20+ miles on the bicycle myself.  This would all be across your general urban terrain - mostly sidewalks and streets, but occasionally across long stretches of grass (where there was no sidewalk, and riding on the road was just plain insane).  Living in Florida also means that steep inclines are few and far between.  Of course, having grown up here also means that most mole-hills feel like Mount Everest to me when I have to ride up them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, my needs are much simpler.  I'm mostly looking for something to ride alongside my young daughter, but also would like to get back out on my own now and then for a bit of joy riding.  I'll probably be sticking a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; more to the sidewalks than I used to, but would still enjoy knowing I can take my bike practically anywhere without much trouble or worry of breaking it.  I'm much more concerned about durability than I am speed or weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what do you guys figure?  What's the &quot;Raleigh M50&quot; of today, or what else might be a good fit for my needs/wants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1719" LastEditorUserId="1719" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T15:12:27.287" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T03:40:28.810" Title="Newer-model bike similar to Raleigh M50" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4486" CreationDate="2011-06-27T08:37:05.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Squealing can also happen if the brake calipers are a little loose from wear and tear.  Toeing in will still help but may not completely eliminate the squeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T08:37:05.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2011-06-27T09:16:19.170" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nice bikes like that quality Marin and that affordable Fuji are nowhere near as exciting as getting a 'Bicycle Shaped Object' ('BSO')...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of getting one of those quality numbers you cannot fully decide on, why not get a 'BSO'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get to learn lots of mechanics with components that need to be setup totally precisely or else they do not work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get fit pushing a big and heavy bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reliably safe to park outside with no danger of anyone stealing your wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get to spend more on bike parts to keep the show on the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Become an expert at punctures in next to no time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most importantly, be able to revel in overtaking people on 'proper' non-BSO bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact the 'BSO' is so good that you should consider two - one to leave at the other end of the train journey and one for home. In that way you will have a ready-made supply of spares. To read on the subject some more you might like this blog:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycleshapedobject.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bicycleshapedobject.wordpress.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that should inadvertently turn you off the idea of getting a 'BSO', pop down your local bike shop, tell them what you have been looking at and let them provide you with some recommendations. They will sort you out the correct size, do you a bike at a reasonable price and provide it fully setup and working, complete with a warranty and maybe a first service check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T09:16:19.170" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2011-06-27T09:58:51.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What others should I look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My requirements are very similar to yours, I ended up getting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gtbicycles.com/bikes/urban/city/2011-traffic-3-0-matte-black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GT Traffic 3.0&lt;/a&gt;. Things I like about it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;solid forks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pinhead security for the wheels and handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rubber bumpers so you don't mess up the frame when you park it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;holes in the right places for luggage attachments and mudguards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T09:58:51.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2011-06-27T10:40:59.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spokes usually break from fatigue. Hitting things hard might dent the rim, or cause a spoke that is about to break from fatigue to fail, but it won't in itself fatigue rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your a heavy guy and the wheels are light, that might cause the spokes to fail early. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise the chances are that the wheel just wasn't built very well. After all most cheap bike never actually go very far, so that fatigue life might not be the most pressing issue for the manufacturer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once one spoke in a wheel has broken from fatigue, the rest will follow shortly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rim is not very worn and has no obvious dents, you may be able to get the wheel rebuilt by a good bike shop. Or you could by The Bicycle Wheel book by Jobst Brandt and it yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1689" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T10:40:59.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4488" CreationDate="2011-06-27T13:36:32.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Raleigh M-50 was a great entry-level mountain bike. In order to answer your question well, let me clarify for you what buying a bike &quot;like an M-50&quot; means to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inexpensive, but good quality:&#xA;  A &quot;real&quot; bike, built by a professional, which happens to be cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Off-road capable:&#xA;  Regardless of whether you need or use this option, it feels good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Commute friendly:&#xA;  To be honest, the M-50 wasn't a bike I'd have picked to commute on, and there are better options now as well. But you will compromise the off road capability if you pick something else.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fun.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few bikes to look at. Pretty much every quality brand has a similar model of MTB, with some variation in spec and price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to decide is if you really want an off road bike, or just a durable one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want an off road bike, meaning that you want to ride in dirt, gravel, or non-pavement situations on at least a part time basis, look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/products/bike-bikes-mountain-aspect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scott Aspect&lt;/a&gt; series. The price range is good, an in just about every respect, I would consider them a modernized M-50 type bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/hardrock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Hardrock&lt;/a&gt; series.&#xA;And the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/sport/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek Sport&lt;/a&gt; series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want a commuter, which is as tough and as durable, and as simple to use and maintain as a mountain bike, but with the speed, agility, and distance friendliness of a road bike, then look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/products/238387006/Bike-Sub-Speed-10/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scott SUB&lt;/a&gt; series (Particularly the SUB 10)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/multi-use/sirrus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Sirrus&lt;/a&gt; (Less durable, but a great commuter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to find the bikes in a LBS and ride them, which will tell you more than I ever could here, but I hope that helps, and feel free to ask more questions if I can do anything more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T03:40:28.810" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T03:40:28.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4472" CreationDate="2011-06-27T13:51:09.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminum in general has a useful fatigue life of about 5 years. Which is why most manufacturers have started limiting frame warranties to 5 years. Fatigue Life data for 6061 alloy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.hawaii.edu/~bsb/me372/docs/fatigue_curves_6061.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your folder has been ridden regularly over the 7 years you've owned it, then consider replacing them. If it's been lightly used, or mostly garaged, then you're are probably ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way to check the soundness of the metal short of an ultrasound or possibly X-ray testing. So if you are concerned, which I gather from the fact that you asked the question that you are, then just change them. it will be worth the piece of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T13:51:09.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4476" CreationDate="2011-06-27T14:00:59.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The suit you have linked to has a few red flags, if you are looking for cooler riding apparel. First, it is long sleeved and long pants. This is generally only the case if it is designed for cool weather riding, and so will be warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also rather loose fitting for cycling apparel, and it is also (apparently from the photos) thermal cloth. Also quite warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last the suit is made mostly of polyester, which doesn't tend to breathe well. Look at something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://assos.com/en/19/singleProduct.aspx?cat=6,19,25&amp;amp;prod=319&amp;amp;var=441&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; for hot summer rides. Especially if you can pull off those stylin' shades. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I was mostly basing my comments on @hhh's desire to avoid heat as stated in his OP. It also appears he is worried about safety which means covering up for protection. You really only get cool or covered, though, in my experience. Finding a balance is tough, and personal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T11:42:31.603" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T11:42:31.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4300" CreationDate="2011-06-27T14:04:27.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4300/installation-of-the-simplex-sx410/4330#4330&quot;&gt;your comments in Mathew's answer&lt;/a&gt;, it may be that either the spring in the area has fatigued beyond useful recovery, or that it has been replaced with the spring windings turning the wrong direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try reversing the spring in its housing, and if not that, then replace the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T15:28:09.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4479" CreationDate="2011-06-27T15:17:09.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As everyone knows, Schwalbe Marathon series are the bullet-proof-most tyres known to cyclistkind, seems they do have some variants in the 2.00 uber-width:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/c2-1254-marathon-plus-tour.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/c2-1254-marathon-plus-tour.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3dqP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These should look good on your bike, once fitted your question should be academic - no punctures for ages (well, until the tyres wear out.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for tubes and patches, the correct answer is to swap with a tube but carry the patches too, the stick on ones because they are so much easier in cold, dark and wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;...and the small detail of tyre inflation. Yes, high tyre pressure prevents punctures. Some people here will be needing sources beyond anecdote for that, maybe the question has to be posed...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T15:17:09.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4500" CreationDate="2011-06-27T15:30:08.470" Score="6" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Trek 2.1 and it came with 700x23 100psi tires. I do a lot of road riding, but every once in a while the packed limestone (rails-to-trails) trails are the better option. I've ridden a few times already with no incident, but I would like some input as to whether this is a safe idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note, I am planning a self-paced century that will utilize almost 50 miles of packed limestone. If 700x23 is not a great idea, what width would you recommend for a limestone/road century?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastEditorUserId="1721" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T17:11:11.997" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T12:08:34.777" Title="Riding packed limestone trails on 700x23 ties" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4499" CreationDate="2011-06-27T15:38:52.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to go up to 700x25s or 700x28s. While you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be okay with 23s, you'll definitely have greater peace of mind with a thicker tire. You may also want to drop the pressure slightly to 80–90psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T15:38:52.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4456" CreationDate="2011-06-27T19:05:07.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the information that you provided and knowing nothing else about your physical condition... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I recently restarted cycling to work.&#xA;  I did four round trips. After riding&#xA;  back from the fourth trip, my stomach&#xA;  muscles started to tense and cramp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider some sort of torso (core) strengthening and flexibility routines. There are a number of ways to accomplish this. The methods include things like: traditional strength training, yoga, pilates, tai chi, and others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me that you're re-starting an activity that your body isn't quite ready for. So, maybe you just overdid it to begin with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After riding back from the fourth trip, my stomach muscles started to tense and cramp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not certain that the cycling caused this. Sounds like your first 3.5 trips were ok; it's just the latest return trip that caused the tense and cramped stomach muscles? Unless this is a recurrent issue, I would not blame it on the cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T20:28:56.133" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T20:28:56.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4479" CreationDate="2011-06-27T20:11:29.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that yes, patching a &lt;em&gt;simple&lt;/em&gt; tube puncture is a good idea. It takes &lt;em&gt;at most&lt;/em&gt; 15 minutes, costs 15 cents, and saves you from buying a brand new tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have the Park Tool patch kit. However, basically, the patch kits are the same. You get a small tube of rubber cement, an assortment of patches, and a tiny bit of sandpaper; all of which fits in less than the palm of your hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra tube or tubes is a good idea, but still, you can't go wrong with the patch kit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T20:11:29.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4342" CreationDate="2011-06-27T20:41:41.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProductList.jsp?sid=2012EquipComputers&amp;amp;pscid=1009&amp;amp;scid=1143&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized cycle computers&lt;/a&gt; quite a bit, and have been rather satisfied with them for their price.  My LBS has wireless ones for ~$45, and sired for ~$25.  Even the lowest models should have all of your requirements, as well as a good build quality (I've dropped mine down a stairwell with no ill effects).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check off your list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under $100 - Check, $30-$45.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed - Check.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avg. Speed - Check.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance - Check.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time riding - Check...ish.  They call it &quot;Actual Time Moving&quot;, so it doesn't include time spent at a signal and such.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance for the season - You can use the Odometer for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time - Check.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wireless (optional) - Optional.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cadence (Pedal rotations) - I'm not sure on this one.  They used to have models which supported cadence, but I don't see it on their website now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T18:36:59.207" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T18:36:59.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4505" CreationDate="2011-06-27T21:33:54.310" Score="8" ViewCount="18345" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of upgrading the crankset on a bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, my bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/09/09_dew_en.cfm&quot;&gt;2009 Kona Dew&lt;/a&gt;) comes with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/161/DYNA-DRIVE&quot;&gt;FSA Dyna Drive&lt;/a&gt; crankset. I'm assuming this is a pretty basic crankset since it lies at the bottom of their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/category_list/19/CRANKSETS&quot;&gt;product list&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be a substantial improvement by upgrading to something nicer? My (uneducated) guesses are that a higher end crankset would be lighter (e.g made from carbon) and possibly have less flex under power application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="210" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T15:26:46.673" Title="Advantages of higher quality cranksets" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4504" CreationDate="2011-06-27T22:59:28.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will definitely be lighter, and probably shift a little better. More rigid is possible but not especially likely, as the cheap one will be strong enough to take a lot of abuse (they don't particularly care about weight so that's easy to do). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit) A cheap crankset very likely has the chainrings rivetted on, and they're not designed to be changed. Sometimes the smallest chainring is bolted on and can be changed. Swapping one of these for a more expensive one that has interchangeable chainrings will probably give better shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap bikes are the ones more likely to be bought by people who either weigh a lot or are careless with their bikes, so are more likely to be overloaded. More expensive bikes get crashed instead. The cranks are designed accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As discussed in  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4063/suggestions-for-progressive-upgradation-of-bike&quot;&gt;Suggestions for progressive upgradation of bike&lt;/a&gt; you're almost certainly better off saving up for a more expensive bike rather than trying to upgrade the one you have. Buying parts retail is a lot more expensive than getting them as part of a bike (manufacturers buy 1000's at a time and don't pay for retail packaging).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T01:37:22.423" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4506" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-27T23:28:31.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Combine with &lt;em&gt;product-rec&lt;/em&gt; if you're asking for recommendations.  Combine with &lt;em&gt;evaluation&lt;/em&gt; if you're asking &lt;strong&gt;how&lt;/strong&gt; to compare or make a choice. Combine with &lt;em&gt;road-bike&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;MTB&lt;/em&gt; (or other appropriate tags) if you're asking about a specific category of bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1674" LastEditorUserId="1674" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T23:31:40.423" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T23:31:40.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4507" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-27T23:28:31.337" Score="0" Body="Questions comparing bikes or types of bikes, and how to choose between them." OwnerUserId="1674" LastEditorUserId="1674" LastEditDate="2011-06-27T23:31:52.123" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T23:31:52.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4514" CreationDate="2011-06-27T23:53:54.390" Score="12" ViewCount="14272" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is using a metal seat post on a carbon fiber frame advisable or not? I want to use a seat post mounted rack on my road bike (no regular rack mount points are on this bike), but I have been told that is not a good idea for carbon seat posts. So I thought I get a whole new metal post &amp;amp; saddle and swap the posts as necessary for commuting versus recreation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask primarily because the famous Sheldon Brown once wrote on his site &quot;Using a carbon-fiber seatpost in a metal frame, or vice versa, invites problems.&quot; but didn't explain why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1725" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T23:41:57.510" Title="Metal seat post with carbon fiber frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4504" CreationDate="2011-06-28T01:06:10.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upgrading your crankset typically means shedding grams, improving stiffness, and often getting much better craftsmanship and materials. Usually resulting in improved performance both under load and not under load.&#xA;Also worth noting, some higher end performance parts are built with weight in mind thus keeping it the lightest possible. In doing so, durability and longevity of the parts are often sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1669" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T01:06:10.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4469" CreationDate="2011-06-28T01:10:23.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Aluminum vs Steel? I've read that aluminum is less shock absorbing than steel, yet my known options below are all aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eventually bought an Alu bike with no suspension (and no 'carbon seat post', etc.). I'm riding on paved roads: not hopping or flying or dropping; when coasting over (small) pot-holes and frost-crazed pavement I just stand / lift myself slightly: put more of my weight on my feet/pedals and less on my seat/saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages are Alu are a) lighter b) doesn't rust c) just as strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages of no suspension include a) lighter b) cheaper c) more efficient and less maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T02:52:26.647" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T02:52:26.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4223" CreationDate="2011-06-28T01:20:41.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;700c x 28 are the narrowest tires/tyres I would run for commuting. &#xA;I would also recommend kevlar tires/tyres. The last thing you want is to try an repair a flat on the way to work. On the way home is still annoying but without the time obligation it is a little more tolerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1669" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T01:20:41.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4472" CreationDate="2011-06-28T01:40:39.880" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;A href=&quot;http://www.foldabikes.com/Talk/Docs/manualnew.pdf&quot;&gt;Brompton owner's manual&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;SECTION K: ROUTINE REPLACEMENTS.&#xA;  Planned replacement is advised to ensure both safety and good performance. The suggested intervals between replacements are for bicycles subjected to normal use: the most appropriate timing depends on the conditions of use and your riding style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;ALUMINIUM COMPONENTS: as on other lightweight machines, aluminium alloy is used in&#xA;  the construction of the Brompton, and this material has a finite life before failure. In normal use, the risk of aluminium fatigue failure is remote, even after many thousands of miles. However, the risk of failure increases with use, especially with hard riding or other severe loading: as such a failure could cause injury, the hinge clamp plates, handlebar and chainset should for safety be replaced every 5,000 miles (more frequently on any machine subjected to hard use), and we recommend that these items are anyway checked regularly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the manual itself notes, that is an extremely conservative number, but considering the hinge plate itself is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brompton-hinge-clamp-plate-qhcpl-prod13607/&quot;&gt;£4.00 part&lt;/a&gt; it seems better to err on the side of caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T01:40:39.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4508" CreationDate="2011-06-28T02:28:31.790" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely that Sheldon's concern was for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;galvanic corrosion&lt;/a&gt; between carbon fiber and aluminum.  This is an issue that's well-trod in both the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/technical-white-paper/#whitepapericon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycle&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boeing.com/commercial/aeromagazine/aero_07/corrosn.html#fig08&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;aeronautics&lt;/a&gt; fields.  In essence, in the presence of an electrolyte (sea air, your sweat) and a cathode (carbon fiber-embedded resin) the anode (aluminum) will corrode.  In the case of a seatpost/seattube interface, this corrosion will wedge the seatpost in place.  This can, at best, make it extremely hard to remove the seatpost.  At worst, it can render the frame unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is to check to see if your frame was built with an aluminum insert for the seat tube.  Given that you currently have a carbon seatpost this is unlikely, but it would alleviate the main concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not the case, there are still some precautions you can take. As &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/technical-white-paper/#whitepapericon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Calfee&lt;/a&gt; notes, anodization will provide some protection.  As well, regular removal and cleaning and reinstallation with carbon paste can help prevent excessive buildup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the significantly more expensive side, you could also consider a titanium seatpost, which wouldn't corrode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how the formatting in this article got so ruined, but you can read more in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2007/02/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-permanent-seatposts-and-what-to-do-about-them_11799&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VeloNews Technical Q&amp;amp;A with Lennard Zinn&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T05:49:57.717" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T05:49:57.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4516" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-28T03:13:15.963" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T03:13:15.963" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T03:13:15.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4517" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-28T03:13:15.963" Score="0" Body="Stuff you add to a bike but aren't absolutely essential. May or may not actually bolt on. Such as rack, fenders, bottle cage, water bottle, bike computer, lights, bell, etc." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:40:43.443" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:40:43.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4508" CreationDate="2011-06-28T07:27:35.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other thing to consider that lantius didn't mention is the possibility that using a seatpost mounted rack in even on a metal seatpost, may be contraindicated in some carbon frames. The one thing we know about carbon bikes is that they are generally manufactured with tight tolerances regarding weight and leverage points, and, even with a metal post, your frame might not support the added weight and leverage that add an unsupported rack might produce. I am not saying this IS a problem, only that it can be, and you should check with the frame manufacturer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T07:27:35.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4531" CreationDate="2011-06-28T08:22:34.703" Score="2" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next weekend I'll participate in a relay triathlon (1100 mts. swim, 7 kms. run and 13 kms. MTB). I'll be doing the bike section, which is the last. Bike needs to be at the boxes area an hour before the start of the race. I guess I'll start riding about 40 minutes from the start of the race. That's around 100+ minutes since I leave the bike at the box. What can I do to warm up during this time or to start at full power without needing to warm up? I thought about riding a few kms. before parking the bike at the boxes, would it be effective after such a long break?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T14:39:55.817" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T04:42:34.697" Title="warm up without bike" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4523" CreationDate="2011-06-28T09:04:02.140" Score="6" ViewCount="35158" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend have just bought a gel saddle for her hybrid bike. She does day trips with it (30-50 kms) and a bit of commuting. Some say this saddle is useless and she should buy bike trousers instead. What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1729" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-07-03T17:59:16.473" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T20:32:34.770" Title="Should I use a gel saddle or not?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;gel-saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-28T09:11:41.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drive:&lt;/strong&gt; You get a bike rack on the back of a car and hit the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Train:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm told you can put a bike on Amtrak for $10. I don't know if they run that way, but there's probably some train, and it's worth checking if they offer something similar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Well, there's always this:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Portland,%20OR&amp;amp;daddr=Austin,%20TX&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ll=37.892196,-110.170898&amp;amp;spn=20.240569,39.506836&amp;amp;sll=38.03683,-110.20978&amp;amp;sspn=20.203179,39.506836&amp;amp;geocode=FfyhtgIdERyw-CkndKl9CwuVVDGRhdH25rk2HA;FRHXzQEdK48s-ikvA8ygmbVEhjF61WnUS0abXQ&amp;amp;mra=ltm&amp;amp;dirflg=b&amp;amp;lci=bike&amp;amp;z=5&quot;&gt;7 days, 17 hours.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1686" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T09:11:41.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4520" CreationDate="2011-06-28T09:43:33.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think saddle choice is largely down to personal preference, if it works for her she should keep it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T09:43:33.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4520" CreationDate="2011-06-28T11:31:53.380" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you will find, for getting started a gel seat may help.  As do padded shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, once you ride regularly, and build some muscle and tolerance around your sit bones, you will find it annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is a good gateway drug to getting used to a saddle.  Generally people find that narrower and simpler seats are more comfortable, once you start riding regularly and build up your seat area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T11:31:53.380" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4519" CreationDate="2011-06-28T11:33:56.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its only 13K, so you do not need to much of a warm up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the purpose of a warm up is two fold.  One get your aerobic system going, and second to get exercise specific muscles warmed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first, you can go for a light jog (not in your bike shoes please!) and for the second, it is best to ride to match the muscles, and running muscles are sufficiently different, that I would focus on a light jog, not too long (10-15 minutes) and not much more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T11:33:56.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4520" CreationDate="2011-06-28T11:39:56.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most of the current gel seats are worthless -- like too many bikes these days, built to sell, not to ride on.  There used to be the old TushCush/HydroSeat sold by Nat Calvert that was pretty good (it was a bladder and leather cover for a standard seat), but he sold the business to someone else who ran it into the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T11:39:56.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4533" CreationDate="2011-06-28T11:40:41.883" Score="8" ViewCount="5065" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I have been doing my bike rides with a GPS logger, and its elevation recording is extremely erratic and thus unusable. Please see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gpsloglabs.com/share/d9393bc6c20b8b0debfe26234169be632eb019e0/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://gpsloglabs.com/share/d9393bc6c20b8b0debfe26234169be632eb019e0/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see from the altitude contour that it does some measurement, but it is too jerky, and thus my total climb is way too big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I work around this problem? Is there any service that will 'flatten' my trip to an accurate topographical map and correct the altitude data?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T23:12:02.400" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T10:57:09.473" Title="How can I fix bad elevation data in a GPS log?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4456" CreationDate="2011-06-28T11:49:45.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were going longer I'd suspect dehydration, but no way you can get dehydrated in eight miles unless the temp and humidity are both in the 90s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's vaguely possible you're OVER-hydrating, but more likely your riding position is too awkward -- perhaps reaching forward too much (given your waist circumference &amp;amp; general condition), or perhaps you're seat's too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find some sites on the web about bike fit and make sure your bike is reasonably sized and reasonably well-adjusted.  Raise your handlebar a bit higher, if it's not already at the warning mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some medical conditions that can be &quot;revealed&quot; from more intense cycling, but not likely at the level you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;One other possibility is cycling in too &quot;high&quot; a gear (on a multi-speed bike).  This places unnecessary strain on the entire body, especially the knees, but also the leg and lower torso muscles.  Generally (on the flat) one should adjust gearing so as to pedal at a rate above 60 RPM (ie, one complete revolution of the pedals per second), and experienced cyclists will tend to pedal at 70-90 RPM (for some reason getting slower as we age).  Another way to gauge pedaling speed (that works pretty well across a range of effort levels) is that you should do at least one revolution of the pedal for each breath you take, and preferably two revolutions per breath.  It's OK to slow RPMs somewhat on a hill, but don't go so slow that you're &quot;grinding&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two most common mistakes made by new cyclists are to have the seat too low and to pedal too slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T15:51:21.260" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T15:51:21.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4526" CreationDate="2011-06-28T11:53:40.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks pretty typical for a non-WAAS GPS.  Height measurement &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; somewhat erratic for non-WAAS (or WAAS in RAIM failure mode) GPS devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T11:53:40.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4499" CreationDate="2011-06-28T12:08:34.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say it mainly depends on the smoothness of the surface, and &quot;packed limestone&quot; can run from glass-smooth to too rough for my 35mm tires.  And, of course, in terms of punctures a lot depends on the &quot;weight&quot; of your tire as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if your teeth aren't getting shook out of your mouth, and the surface doesn't have a lot of random loose sharp pieces (more likely with stones other than limestone), it's probably OK, unless you're running super-light racing tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to be doing a lot of this in the future, though, you probably want to consider switching to a wider wheel/tire if your frame allows it.  And you can probably go up a size with your current wheels, without having to change rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T12:08:34.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4535" CreationDate="2011-06-28T12:30:44.710" Score="12" ViewCount="4196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm commuting an hour each way each day &lt;strong&gt;in summer&lt;/strong&gt; now and it rains sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a GoreTex jacket which I bought 10 years ago for walking in. With additional inner warm clothes I wear it in temperatures down to -5C (23F). I can wear it with a shirt when cycling when the temperature is up to (i.e. below) about 15C (60F): it keeps me fairly dry; and if it doesn't (in a downpour for up to an hour) then at least it's wind-proof i.e. fairly air-tight i.e. insulating on a bike and can therefore keep me warm after I'm soaked and it's still raining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's too warm to wear in summer though, when biking. In a light rain with a temperature over 22C (70F), if I wore it zipped up I'd get soaked with sweat: and might as well, instead, arrive at work soaked with rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can you recommend for a summer rain jacket? I'm guessing that options include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Breathable' (e.g. GoreTex) bike-specific jacket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Waterproof', vented material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Poncho' of some kind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Nothing': instead, insulating clothes to regulate temperature even when wet (I have a pannier), and change of (dry) clothes at the destination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something that will:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last for an hour, commuting 18 km&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rainfall of 1 mm to (if I'm lucky) 5 mm per hour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperatures of 22C and above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to a bike store. One option there was a lightweight waterproof, with venting (e.g. in the armpits) for a bit over $100. Another option was a &quot;GoreTex PacLite&quot; for about $250, which doesn't have venting (&quot;unlike cheaper, waterproof, doesn't need venting&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My uncle flippantly recommended a poncho; however the few people I've seen wearing one on the street seem to be riding at only about 10 kph, which would more than double my journey time: is that right, or can they be faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was tempted to buy the GoreTex but it's expensive enough that I wouldn't want to regret the purchase, so I hoped to ask you. Can an unvented jacket be usable when zipped up and biking in warmer temperatures, if it's (for example) GoreTex? Are there good reasons for or against vents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a pannier to carry it in when it's not raining (I use the pannier only for whatever spare clothing I may want to carry that day, and the U-lock); so light-weight would be quite nice but pack-ability seems less important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T16:52:16.147" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T21:53:56.153" Title="Summer rain jacket recommendations" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;rain&gt;&lt;jacket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4519" CreationDate="2011-06-28T12:31:59.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If possible, borrow a second bike, and perhaps a trainer. There is very little that you can do to effectively warm up in a cycling effective way, other than ride. A light jog, and some stretching is the second best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a short enough ride for that to suffice, if it is your best available option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T12:31:59.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4526" CreationDate="2011-06-28T13:01:01.630" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/profile_input&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com&lt;/a&gt;. In the parameters set &quot;Add DEM elevation data&quot; to &quot;From best available source&quot;. This will replace the recorded elevation with elevation data from a database, which should be more accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Try this other sub-page of the same site to upload your .gpx and then download the fixed .gpx&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/elevation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/elevation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="4572" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T14:39:33.533" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T14:39:33.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4476" CreationDate="2011-06-28T14:16:37.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're planning to have accidents, then armour (e.g. as worn by inline skaters) might be cool and protective: because it would only cover your points, e.g. elbows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T14:16:37.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4530" CreationDate="2011-06-28T14:26:35.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have, and like, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/Satellite/PROD_JCOUTS?landingid=1208436857421A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gore Countdown jacket&lt;/a&gt;. Breathable, light, waterproof, not too hot, although I haven't used it since I move to Dubai and 45c temps, Fully closable vents, so you get the best of both worlds, and reasonably cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T14:26:35.253" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4536" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-28T16:37:49.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Meta discussion on this tag here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/332/womens-bikes-wsd-tag&quot;&gt;Women's bikes/WSD tag&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T16:37:49.347" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T16:37:49.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4537" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-28T16:37:49.347" Score="0" Body="Questions about bikes for women, clothing, and any other issues specific to women. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T16:37:49.347" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T16:37:49.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4530" CreationDate="2011-06-28T16:41:41.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my personal experience, anything you wear while riding that is even moderately water proof will trap heat and sweat and for me, I will end up just as wet if I had ridden with or without the jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GoreTex and the like are just riding an edge of being helpful.  Short rides, cool temps, perfect.  Long rides, doesn't matter, you are going to get wet.  From the inside or the outside.  :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T16:41:41.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-06-28T16:43:43.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Mixte&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mixte is a step-through (low top tube or &amp;quot;ladies&amp;quot;) frame with 3 sets of stays instead of the usual two. The middle set of stays usually runs all the way to the head tube replacing the top tube, but on some mixte frames, the top tube is still a normal single tube. The traditional mixte has those axle-to-head stays straight, but there are also designs where they're bent to give an even lower standover height. They still retain the usual chain stays and seat stays. This design keeps the frame strong and doesn't require a longer seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the word itself comes from French and means &amp;quot;mixed&amp;quot; as in &amp;quot;mix of women's and men's styles&amp;quot; or maybe even &amp;quot;unisex&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_m.html#mixte&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_m.html#mixte&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Step-through_frame#Mixte&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Step-through_frame#Mixte&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T16:43:43.153" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-28T16:43:43.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4520" CreationDate="2011-06-28T16:53:58.737" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gel saddles are quite comfortable when new. Unfortunately, the gel tends to get displaced over time, so the comfy-ness tends to not last. However, as geoffc pointed out, these saddles are good introductory saddles for new riders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T16:53:58.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4190" CreationDate="2011-06-28T21:32:42.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano doesn't have a manual for that freewheel, but their &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/service/EV-TOOL1-2156D_v1_m56577569830725877.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Special Tool Techdoc&lt;/a&gt; clearly identifies the TL-FW30 as the &quot;Multiple Freewheel Removal Tool for MF-7400 / 6208 / Z012 / Z015 /1600 / HG20 / HG22&quot;, as you've noted.  The Park FR-1 is the same tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T21:32:42.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4530" CreationDate="2011-06-28T21:53:56.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had similar problems this year (although it's winter here now).  I ended up using a light vented (non-waterproof) spray-jacket and then treated it with water repellent (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stormwaterproofing.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stormwaterproofing.com&lt;/a&gt;).  Not sure about the longevity of the treatment.  It's lasted a couple of months for me so far, but I've been careful to minimise rubbing on the jacket.  I'd also like to know a bit more about possible environmental impacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T21:53:56.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4544" CreationDate="2011-06-29T01:05:07.843" Score="14" ViewCount="12099" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have SpinPOWER USB charger kit, and I am using a bottle dynamo with it. I have heard that the power output from a hub dynamo is higher than from a bottle dynamo. Does anyone have any information about the merits of using hub dynamo vs. bottle dynamo? Also, what is a good hub dynamo, and what is a price range for the installation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1483" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T12:14:00.507" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T12:14:00.507" Title="Bottle dynamo vs. hub dynamo" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4543" CreationDate="2011-06-29T01:25:39.690" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not used a bottle dynamo for a very long time, but have a hub dynamo. Broadly, the hub dynamos are more expensive but more efficient - you get less drag for the same power output. Most systems put out 3W peak power for historical reasons, although a lot of new lights use less than this. Bottle dynamos are noisier and wear on your tyre, which may be an issue if your tyres otherwise last a long time. A good bottle dyno will be nearly as efficient as a hub dyno and cost about half as much, plus you don't have to build it into the wheel. A cheap bottle dyno should be removed and thrown away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some dynamos will put out more than 6V, which is how you can get more power out of them (the Schmidt ones do - I used to run a 5W white LED straight off one). Often at decent speed they will go to 12V at the same 500mA, so you can get 6W. There are also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedalpower.com.au/&quot;&gt;dynamos specifically designed to do this&lt;/a&gt;, and they usually come with a regulator and various output options for charging things like phones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub dynamo systems cost at least a couple of hundred dollars because you need to build the dynamo into a wheel. But they last a long time (I don't know how long as I've only had mine for 10 years and the ones I know of that have failed have done so when the bike was destroyed around them, or the owner pulled them apart). Any decent LBS should be able to get them if they don't stock them, or refer you to one who does. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/lightingsystems.htm&quot;&gt;Peter White Cycles&lt;/a&gt; is one of the better dealers in the US with a wide range of options, likewise &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stkildacycles.com.au/parts-and-accessories/schmidt-hub-dynamos?page=shop.browse&amp;amp;category_id=62&quot;&gt;St Kilda Cycles&lt;/a&gt; in Australia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myra-simon.com/bike/dynamos.html&quot;&gt;this is a reasonable overview&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nordicgroup.us/s78/dynamo.html&quot;&gt;this gives more details&lt;/a&gt;, specifically discussion of the &quot;more power&quot; idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T02:27:31.997" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T02:27:31.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4543" CreationDate="2011-06-29T01:57:10.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can attest that the bottle type eventually (actually, relatively soon) wears out.  The sideways force on the top bearing causes it to wear quite rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once had unit that fit in the &quot;kickstand mount&quot; area behind the bottom bracket, and it had a wide wheel (the dynamo was inside the wheel) that bore square on the tread of the tire.  That one lasted a long time (in dynamo years) -- probably in the neighborhood of 2000 miles operating (headlight back and forth to work).  I've never found a decent replacement, so I went to battery units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T01:57:10.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6095" CreationDate="2011-06-29T03:01:28.110" Score="2" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for a hydration pack/system that I can use for cycling, running, snowboarding and (by removing the bladder and putting it into my travel pack) backpacking across Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My requirements are pretty simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2L capacity (or around that mark)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimal - no extra storage or other bells and whistles are necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reasonably strong/good quality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this stage I'm interested in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deuter.com/en_US/backpack-details.php?category=127&amp;amp;id=1700&amp;amp;title=Hydro%20lite%202.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; bag by Deuter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I will actually be using it for a lot more snow boarding than anything as it is now winter in Melbourne, so the smaller the better as I want it to go under my jacket (I know this is a QA for bike riders, but just thought it was worth the mention).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1732" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T17:46:19.157" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T16:03:58.343" Title="What hydration system should I use for multiple activities?" Tags="&lt;hydration&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4479" CreationDate="2011-06-29T03:07:58.493" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that it is definitely worthwhile to patch a tube for many reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;five patches go for about $5, lower than the price of a single tube (~$7). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a patch kit can be taped under the seat whereas a tube must be carried in a bag or pocket (and if in a pocket, remembered).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given the ability to avoid flats almost entirely (e.g. using puncture-resistant tires, riding mindfully / carefully), I have never had to wait for a patch to 'dry', even the minute or two for the glue to set passes pretty quickly. Except when in a rush (e.g. a mountain bike race), it takes this much time to change a tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubes deteriorate more quickly and are more likely not to work when needed than a patch. For example, improperly folded tubes often crack where folded or at the base of the stem. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite my own advice, in practice I carry a spare tube in my pocket if one is handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, if you have neither a tube nor a patch kit you can&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tie a knot in the tire where the hole is and stretch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ride home on a flat and risk damaging your rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stuff the tire with grass or something else handy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hitch hike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;call a friend/ family member&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2011-07-05T04:49:41.493" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T04:49:41.493" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4543" CreationDate="2011-06-29T10:49:12.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hub dynamo, albeit from the 1950s, but still going strong. Allegedly hub dynamos have improved since then, there are some expensive European made models that people swear by, there are also some affordable Shimano units that work rather well and can be bought built into a wheel for around the £100 mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be tempted by the Shimano units because Shimano have put some effort into this product line in recent times and they have tried to widen the market with better prices than their rivals have been charging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local LBS will be able to build up a wheel for you, you can also get something mail-order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The USB charge kit that you already have is quite innovative in that it has an extra box to smooth the power out into 5V DC (the dynamo typically gives out anything between 0 and &gt;6V AC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, you must plug the new dynamo into the USB doo-dad that you already have (or put together a smoothing capacitor with voltage regulator circuit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failure to smooth and cap at 5V could be damaging to your iPod although I expect that it probably could charge fine on 6V with no problems. (6V is the standard voltage for bicycle dynamos).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as the hub dynamo I have had the bottom-bracket mount dynamo and plenty of the sidewall 'bottle' dynamos. The 'bottle' dynamos are noisy, but at night, for lights I think that is a fair payoff. For what you are trying to do the hub dynamo is definitely the way to go - completely silent, exceptionally efficient and useful for lights as well as iPod gadget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 1950's hub dynamo is going strong - an investment of £100 - £200 will be forgotten in time and you will have much enjoyment from having electrical power on your bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone wanting to put together a charging circuit of their own, here is an 'instructables circuit':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Charge-Any-USB-Device-by-Riding-Your-Bike/step6/The-Actual-Circuit/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Charge-Any-USB-Device-by-Riding-Your-Bike/step6/The-Actual-Circuit/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parts should cost &amp;lt; £5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T10:49:12.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2011-06-29T11:37:11.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to go minimal footprint, with no storage, why not go no bag? These definitely have downsides, but they fit under anything, with any type of clothing, or sport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/luggage/hydration-pack/product/review-camelbak-velobak-10-39405&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Camelbak VeloBak Hydration Jersey&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/luggage/hydration-pack/product/racebak-hydration-vest-33889&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Camelbak Racebak Hydration Vest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downsides include water which must be cooled, or will heat to body temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the linked reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1705" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T14:13:02.077" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T14:13:02.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2011-06-29T14:30:05.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd look at the Nathan line of packs. You really want to get a pack that's designed for running, as you need something that will do a good job of controlling the bounce. The Nathan packs are the best I've seen at this. They have wide straps with multiple attachment points that help distribute the load and control the bounce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use a hydration pack snowboarding you'll probably need to insulate the tube. I know Camelbak sells an insulated tube for their bladders, it should work on the Nathan bladders as well. This may be less of an issue if it's under your jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nathansports.com/our-products/hydrationnutrition/race-vests&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.nathansports.com/our-products/hydrationnutrition/race-vests&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the HPL #020&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BazqL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T14:30:05.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2011-06-29T14:51:54.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the hydration system you are looking for is called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/jPBVbs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;water bottle&lt;/a&gt;. It is small, light, minimal, and they can be as reasonably (or unreasonably) strong as you're willing to pay for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T14:51:54.210" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-29T15:38:41.527" Score="2" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something under $500 that is relatively unbranded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-04T19:16:21.280" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T13:06:44.410" Title="What's a good bike for daily use in New Orleans? A flat city with lots of potholes and bad roads" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4552" CreationDate="2011-06-29T15:59:42.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I vote for a used hardtail mountain bike with 700c wheels and a rigid steel fork.  If you put thin/ fast rolling city tires on there you'll be left with a quick bike that can handle some abuse and the upright geometry may make avoiding potholes and other obstacles easier.  This is what I ride. I consider the 700c a poor mans 29er.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T15:59:42.390" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4479" CreationDate="2011-06-29T18:37:13.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tired of patching/replacing tubes I finally decided to convert my wheels to tubeless using this kit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sincamaras.com/INGLES/indexenglish.HTM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sincamaras.com/INGLES/indexenglish.HTM&lt;/a&gt;. I know there are several other on the market (e.g.: DT-Swiss has a tubeless kit as well) but my local bike shop recommended me this one. I decided to install it because in my area, this winter, a lot of vegetation has been cut around the trails and everyone is having lots of flats due to the spikes on the ground. I haven't had a flat since I installed the tubeless kit. I had almost one (sometimes 2) per ride before! Another advantage of removing the tubes is making the wheels lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T18:37:13.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4557" CreationDate="2011-06-29T19:20:51.567" Score="19" ViewCount="78492" Body="&lt;p&gt;My used bike came with different front and rear tires. It appears to have some kind of Kenda commuter tire in the front, and Continental Country Ride in the rear. They are both the same size (700x28).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this perfectly acceptable or should a bike always have matching models (and/or size)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concerns from mismatching tires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grip thresholds may be inconsistent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride comfort? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear rates (but rears seem to wear faster anyway)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="210" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T17:39:38.207" Title="Mixing different front and rear tires" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4552" CreationDate="2011-06-29T19:33:53.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Better yet, look at a 29'er. Like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.from Kona, Single speed, rigid, fat tire MTB. Run fat tire slicks, and it's a great commuter. The lack of shifting works well on flat ground, with the right gear choice (very personal decision), and the fat large tires roll well and comfortably. MTB durability means rough roads might as well not exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many bikes like this, and while i like the Unit 29'er linkd, I'm recommending the idea, not the particular bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as branding, that can be fixed with judicious use of tape, spray paint, and stickers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T19:33:53.173" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4555" CreationDate="2011-06-29T19:48:43.613" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's perfectly okay to run different sizes, brands, and types of tires on the front and rear.  As you note, rears will wear faster due to carrying more of the load.  The grip threshold is largely irrelevant, since the front and rear will be exposed to different forces and grip requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main concern is keeping within the range of a single tube size if possible, since otherwise you'd need to have twice the spares on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the extreme end, there are 69er and 96er mountain bikes that mix and match 29&quot; (622) and 26&quot; (559) wheels on the same bike as well as Terry women's bikes with 24&quot; (520) front wheels and 700c (622) rear.  By necessity those run very different tires front and rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T19:48:43.613" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4543" CreationDate="2011-06-29T20:07:14.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of the bottle dynamo is that it introduces zero drag when not engaged.  Bicycle Quarterly did an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikequarterly.com/VBQgenerator.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;analysis of the drag from dynamos and a bottle dynamo&lt;/a&gt; back in 2005.  Note that the bottle dynamo was internally capped at 6.2V, but otherwise is only slightly less efficient (in terms of drag) than the hub dynamos up to around 30kmh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, modern dynamo hubs have only improved, with the SON20 now branded as the SONdelux and the newer Shimano DH-3N81 having even less drag than the 3N71.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T20:07:14.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4555" CreationDate="2011-06-29T20:10:38.380" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, basically no problem mixing tire types, widths, and even diameters.  The rear tire will carry more weight and generally wear faster, so that may be a consideration in picking different tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front and rear are exposed to vastly different forces and there may be good reasons for having different tires as a result.  On the front a narrow tire with light tread will permit turning with less effort, but on the back this isn't as much of a concern.  OTOH, the front tire provides about 3/4ths of your braking ability, so that's an argument for giving it a more substantial (or at least not worn out) tread.  In terms of sideways skids on slick/loose surfaces, a front tire skid is likely to result in a more out-of-control situation (ie, more road rash) than a rear tire skid, but it's harder to get the front skidding in the first place, so hard to say how tire style would affect this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And (probably due mostly to the weight difference), punctures occur in rear tires 2-4 times more often than in front tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, on a used bike the tires are apt to be different simply because they were not replaced in pairs.  I'd generally say this is of no concern so long as they are roughly equivalent.  If the front tire is much &quot;heavier&quot; than the back, though, my inclination would be to swap them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T20:10:38.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4563" CreationDate="2011-06-29T21:07:18.483" Score="2" ViewCount="7063" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-super-tourist-dx-rear-rack/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;topeak rear rack&lt;/a&gt; the mounting of which is interfering with the operation of the rear brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, my frame (a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/scott/sportster-p4-2009-hybrid-bike-ec016316&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2009 Scott Sportster P4&lt;/a&gt;) only has mounting lugs on the outside of the seatstay meaning that the rack's mounting arms just touch the outside of metal sheath around the brake cable. The brakes still apply but the cable is not free to move as it should be. A pretty standard V-brake setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any good ideas for a mounting solution that would enable me to mount the rack in such a way that the mounting arms bend in more quickly to avoid the brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm tempted to heat up the arms and bend them with a wrench - any concerns or recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T22:50:10.733" Title="Can anyone suggest a way to mount my rack to prevent it impeding the rear brake?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4479" CreationDate="2011-06-29T21:27:52.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it worth patching a tube on a mountain bike, or just replace it with a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a flat on the trail, and you have a spare tube, replace the tube and keep &#xA;riding. But fix the tube when you get home, and use it to replace the spare you just&#xA;used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are a lot of 1/2&quot; - 3/4&quot; thorns here in Texas, and I use 26 x 1.95 tubes.&#xA;  Any particular patch type/brand is better? Can you recommend any methods to cut&#xA;  down on punctures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are some tubes that are more &quot;heavy duty&quot; than others. But most of the protection is in the tires as others have noted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talk to your local bike shop about the tire options they recommend for your thorny trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1739" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T21:27:52.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4456" CreationDate="2011-06-29T22:12:08.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much effort does the 9mph require for you?  (note that for some people it would require super human effort, for others, not so much)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to find that when I rode my commute with annoyingly younger, fitter, male friends, that I would push very hard to keep up/impress them (I know, why?!) and when I got home I would have gut cramps.  This was the only circumstance that this happens for me (and I bike a lot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would have been breathing harder for sure.  Perhaps not breathing enough?  I am not sure the medical/physical cause, but I thought if your 9mph is pushing hard, try easing off and see if you still get them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1740" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T22:12:08.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4560" CreationDate="2011-06-29T22:13:27.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't even need to heat up the arms.  Just bend them whichever way you'd like; it's easiest if you have access to a vice.  You might even look at having them make an 'X', if that pulls the mounting arm away from the brake.   By design, the horizontal stays should have a minimum amount of force on them - they handle keeping the rack from rotating forward and aft while the bulk of the weight is transmitted down the vertical stays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also get p-clamps and attach the rack stays lower or higher as needed to clear the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T22:13:27.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4508" CreationDate="2011-06-29T22:27:29.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved this problem with using a rack which mounts through the rear hub.  It can't carry as much weight as a frame-mounted rack, but as others have pointed out - if I am hauling heavy stuff then I use a different bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rack works great for me.  Tubus makes some, and there are others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I haven't yet (knocking on wood) had to change a rear flat on this bike, and I expect it to be a pain (have to remove the quick release skewer to get the wheel off).  That is the only downside, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1740" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T22:27:29.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4560" CreationDate="2011-06-29T22:28:51.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although not something that your bike workshop would do, you could make your 4-point rack a... 3 point rack...!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Crazy huh?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just leave off the bolt and bracket on the (left) noodle side. Easy. A Two minute job, no expenditure involvified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most racks are available in 3-point options, the idea being that 3-point clamps to the mudguard bridge. Yours will be a special 3.5 point rack version. It will work fine so long as you don't have more than 25Kg on the back and tighten up the bolts sensibly, making sure there are quality washers on there too (or should I say washer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that answer isn't too good. Let me post another...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T01:04:07.680" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T01:04:07.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4581" CreationDate="2011-06-29T22:34:03.363" Score="1" ViewCount="48599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a used Trek 4300 bike and after a few days I noticed leaking oil from front suspension fork. Oil leaks only from one leg (opposite to disk-brakes). I would like to know more about construction of front-suspension. Is this a serious problem? Is it possible to refill suspension with new oil? What kind of oil is used? How much oil is used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1741" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-09-23T20:30:20.350" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T11:59:02.450" Title="Leaking oil from front suspension" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4560" CreationDate="2011-06-29T22:46:10.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The options might not be with just the rack, your brake could be the item to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;蠱 &lt;em&gt;Have you considered a 'flexible noodle'?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are not a guaranteed find in your LBS misc. workshop spares, but a good mechanic should keep a small stash of them out the back for situations like yours. Here is a picture of what you are wanting to maybe consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TE3Ni.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's better answer, &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As for bending the fixings, don't! Because they have big slots in the middle they bend weirdly, making the slot bigger so the bolts don't necessarily attach properly, the look isn't that pro either.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T22:46:10.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4573" CreationDate="2011-06-29T22:59:03.857" Score="11" ViewCount="5718" Body="&lt;p&gt;Identical tyres, identical rims, minimal braking on the back wheel, no skids, properly inflated at least once a fortnight to manufacturer's recommended pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does the back one wear out more quickerly than the front?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T16:59:56.767" Title="Why does my back tyre wear so much more quickly than the front?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4555" CreationDate="2011-06-29T23:10:13.393" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted you do the braking on the front wheel, particularly if &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; braking when your centre of gravity moves forward over the front wheel. Therefore, if you are going to have odd tyres, put the wider one up front. This will give you better braking and cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tread matters little on-road for grip, even in the wet as bicycle tyres do not aquaplane. The main point of tread on a road tyre is to indicate wear. Too worn and the 'canvas' wears through and you get punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Odd tyres are to be expected, the back wears out quicker for mysterious reasons for which the physics has as yet to be disclosed on B-SE, therefore you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; end up with odd tyres - if you don't then you are not riding hard enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T23:10:13.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4568" CreationDate="2011-06-29T23:17:42.937" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kerry Irons put together an impressive &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketechreview.com/tires/durability/476-tire-wear-data&quot;&gt;breakdown of tire wear data&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His read on it is the fact that the rear tire is the primary driving force and thus the main point of power dissipation is the reason for the increased wear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Force per unit area grinds off the rubber, so higher rider power and lower contact area increase the rate of wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes more sense than the weight ratio, when you consider the weight distribution is perhaps 20% higher on the rear while the ratio of wear is significantly larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T23:17:42.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4566" CreationDate="2011-06-29T23:19:59.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The level of oil in a fork is very important to its proper function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I maintain my fork, I remove the caps for each stanchion using a socket wrench. You may be able to do the same with your fork and examine if there are any obvious problems with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is a new bike I recommend taking it directly back to the point of purchase and asking for help, or replacement of a defective product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a serious problem that has to be fixed. Each fork has its own specification for the type and amount of oil to be used. Usually, the specs require the oil level be accurate to a few ml's as well as no air bubbles or other contaminants in the oil. If you want to do it yourself you should be able to find the specs for your bike's fork online. However, because it is leaking, the leak must be found and corrected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1742" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T23:19:59.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4560" CreationDate="2011-06-30T00:17:22.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mounting arms are meant to be bent.  Bend them as needed to fit your bike.  If they can't be made to fit then likely a visit to a local hardware store (especially if staffed by some reasonably clever salesperson) will yield a solution.  Or your local bike shop folks may find a suitable bracket in their junk parts box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T11:34:44.367" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T11:34:44.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4568" CreationDate="2011-06-30T00:22:38.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that &quot;squirm&quot; has something to do with it.  As you pedal, the rear tire is forced first left, then right, slightly out of line with the direction of travel.  (The front tire, OTOH, gets to pick its direction and force the rest of the bike to follow.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T00:22:38.713" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2449" CreationDate="2011-06-30T00:29:23.263" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ever drove a farm tractor you'd understand.  Some tires have a &quot;directional&quot; tread -- effectively &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; or &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;.  Now, you might expect that a tread of &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; would have better traction if you were attempting to pull it to the right (and it were resisting the pull by trying to go left), but that's not the case.  The &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; tread will &quot;load up&quot; with mud/gravel/whatever when pulled to the right (and traction will be reduced to near zero), but if pulled to the left it will be &quot;self cleaning&quot; and traction will be an order of magnitude better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the rear tire, obviously, you want the best traction when pedaling -- to move the bike forward.  On the front tire, on the other hand, you want the best traction when braking.  Thus the tires would be installed in opposite directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T00:29:23.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1235" CreationDate="2011-06-30T00:35:09.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slick Stick tire tool.  There is no other answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;Slick Stick&quot; is a piece of nylon rod, about 1/2&quot; diameter and 5 inches long, with notch at one end. You stick it into the gap between tire and rim, pry outward, and then slide the stick first one direction then the other to dismount the tire -- 30 seconds max. Reverse the operation to remount. Never a chance of a pinched tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/moA9R8tvS8g?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T17:59:50.927" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T17:59:50.927" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4580" CreationDate="2011-06-30T05:22:28.667" Score="8" ViewCount="11108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm finally going to buy a bike next month.  And a helmet.  I'm wondering how much I should budget for buying a helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be riding around New York City, so I want good visibility around me.  And safety is a big concern for me as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1744" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-04T19:15:08.177" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T19:15:08.177" Title="How much should I spend on my helmet?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;price&gt;&lt;us&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4552" CreationDate="2011-06-30T05:29:33.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For daily use on Toronto roads (occasional but not continuous pot holes) I'm happy with a bike which has no suspension, strong wheels, and 700x32 tires (with tread but not studs) inflated to 80..95 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Tires that wide might (? check this ?) need disc brakes, which are relatively expensive: so slightly thinner, XXX-28 tires might be cheaper because they can be used with cheaper brakes.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4223&quot;&gt;What is the narrowest tire you would use for commuting?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T13:06:44.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2011-06-30T05:34:30.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although safety is a big concern, I don't think that a helmet per se will keep you safe. Wearing a helmet &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; make the difference between being lucky versus unlucky, &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; you're in an accident. I wear a helmet (well, a hard hat): I'm not against helmets; but the &lt;strong&gt;other&lt;/strong&gt; things you do, e.g. choosing where and how and when to ride, would probably have a bigger effect on your safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know that any helmet would impair visibility: it moves when your head does (and, I expect, stays up on the crown of your head instead of slipping in front of your eyes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be wrong but I think that what you're buying with a more expensive helmet would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;looks better (if you care about the 'look')&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fits better (e.g. more ways to adjust it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a &quot;Bern Brighton&quot; hard hat because it was cheap and comfortable and (I hoped) more likely to at least stay on, in an accident, than others in the store which fit less well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Someone mentioned that some helmets come with visors, which can interfere with your visibility when you're in a &quot;heads down&quot; position. Now I recall, I did notice some with a visor, often a detachable visor, and reflexively (note that I'm a novice buyer/user, not an expert/salesman) avoided them: I reckoned that instead of a visor I could wear sunglasses instead, if it came to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T12:01:16.647" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T12:01:16.647" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2011-06-30T06:41:12.760" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many countries all helmets legally sold meet a certain minimum standard. So there is no &quot;too cheap&quot; option, as the cheapest helmet you can buy will be considered safe enough. In this case spending more gets you a lighter, better looking (subjectively) and more comfortable helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The USA also has a mandatory standard. For information about the standards and also plenty of other information and studies about the safety benefits of wearing helmets, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_helmet#History_of_standards&quot;&gt;this wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) created a standard called ANSI Z80.4 in 1984. Later, the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) created its own mandatory standard for all bicycle helmets sold in the United States, which took effect in March 1999.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T06:55:08.510" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T06:55:08.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2011-06-30T07:40:58.873" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Testing of helmets shows that there is little difference in impact protection. A better quality helmet, defined in this case as one that fits your head, is well ventilated, and looks good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A well ventilated helmet prevents you from overheating while riding, especially at high speeds. A helmet that fits stays put on your head during a crash. And one that is comfortable and lightweight is less noticeable while you ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a pure safety standpoint, buy a DOT/ANSI certified helmet, and you'll be fine. If you want to enjoy riding, and not mind wearing the helmet, be willing to spend more. $300 dollars is not out of line for a really high quality helmet, but that doesn't mean you need to spend that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find one that fits, ask your LBS to explain the ventilation differences between it and its more expensive cousins, and find one that fits in your budget. Looks good can be important, too, but that's personal and subjective.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute&#xA;  submitted samples of six helmet models&#xA;  to a leading U.S. test lab: three in&#xA;  the $150+ range and three under $20.&#xA;  The impact test results were virtually&#xA;  identical. There were very few&#xA;  differences in performance among the&#xA;  helmets. Our conclusion: when you pay&#xA;  more for a helmet you may get an&#xA;  easier fit, more vents and snazzier&#xA;  graphics. But the basic impact&#xA;  protection of the cheap helmets we&#xA;  tested equaled the expensive ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The results are a testimony to the&#xA;  effectiveness of our legally-required&#xA;  CPSC helmet standard. Although our&#xA;  sample was small, the testing&#xA;  indicates that the consumer can shop&#xA;  for a bicycle helmet in the US market&#xA;  without undue concern about the impact&#xA;  performance of the various models on&#xA;  sale, whatever the price level. The&#xA;  most important advice is to find a&#xA;  helmet that fits you well so that it&#xA;  will be positioned correctly when you&#xA;  hit. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/briefs.htm&quot;&gt;We have a page up with details of&#xA;  the testing.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T07:40:58.873" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4566" CreationDate="2011-06-30T08:27:14.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this may in fact be a serious problem which needs attention, it can also be normal. The first thing you need to do is define what you mean by leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a thin and light coat of oil on on fork stanchion, this is very likely normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a puddle, pool, or drip of oil on the fork leg, this is more than likely a problem. It can be a failed fork seal, or a a damaged damping or lockout cartridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these can be caused by over compression of the fork. It could also a be a defect in the fork, which should be replaced. Do you have an LBS you trust? If so, take the bike to them and ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that there are other things that can cause this that may not be damage. How do you store the bike? Do you hang it up on the wall by the wheel or set it upside down on the bars and saddle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving the fork in a position to have oil draining against the seal can allow it to seep through, but that is normal. I know this is a bit ambiguous, but there is no way to give an answer with certainty without seeing the fork. Post a picture of the leak, and we can be more helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T08:27:14.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4568" CreationDate="2011-06-30T13:34:42.533" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thus, consistent tire rotation is key to tire longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T13:34:42.533" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4643" CreationDate="2011-06-30T13:55:05.043" Score="30" ViewCount="50598" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously a daily wash with washing up liquid and water is a good start... But with all the use a water bottle gets and the mouthpiece being exposed to the elements whilst cycling through who knows what - are there any other steps you take to ensure your water bottles are clean and hygienic? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a bonus question - do you use the same bottle forever, or do you replace them after a certain period?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-02T15:54:41.123" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T20:45:19.477" Title="Simplest and best way to keep water bottles clean and hygienic?" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;&lt;bottle&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2011-06-30T14:17:29.013" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wash mine in a dishwasher. Mostly because that requires the least effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had to replace bottles occasionally, I find that eventually the nozzle on the cap starts to leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T14:17:29.013" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2011-06-30T14:49:04.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a dishwasher, soak them in a water/bleach solution for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T14:49:04.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2011-06-30T15:48:21.680" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water bottles??  Clean and hygienic??  If you can scrape off the crust of road mud on the spout they're clean enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Actually, I just rinse mine out in very hot tap water, though for a brand new one I'll use a few drops of dish soap to help get rid of the manufacturing oils and the plastic taste.  Sometimes for new bottles I'll fill them with hot water and just let sit a few hours, then empty, to get rid of the taste.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottles generally fail in the cap seal or nozzle eventually, at which time I discard them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Seriously, I rarely clean water bottles.  If one has set over winter half-full of water I'll put a little effort into cleaning out the resulting scum, otherwise I just rinse with hot water occasionally (and never on a week-long bike ride -- just fill and go).]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-07-01T22:19:41.767" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T22:19:41.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2011-06-30T15:49:14.777" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm on a cycling holiday I take a tube of cleaning tablets for false teeth with me. Insert a tablet, fill the bottle with water, let it soak overnight, rinse, done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1030" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T15:49:14.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4576" CreationDate="2011-06-30T15:55:34.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A more direct answer:  If you shop in a bike shop you'll probably have to shell out $50-75 for something that fits and suits your taste.  If you shop in a discount store you can likely find a serviceable helmet for $20-30, though it may not be vented as well, if that's a criterion for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main criteria would be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit/comfort (doesn't rattle on your head, straps can be adjusted to suit you)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Venting (more important for longer rides and if you're apt to be really working at it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durability (eg, some sort of &quot;skin&quot; over the styrofoam body helps)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visibility (depends on your riding position -- be sure to check this especially if you ride head-down on the drops)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not looking too dorky (for me this means no Pooh Bear decals and no tail fins)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T15:55:34.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4568" CreationDate="2011-06-30T16:59:56.767" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical tire wear on a unicycle can provide some illumination here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite there only being one wheel, and the mass bearing down upon it being continuous, a unicycle tyre will wear down unevenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because on a standard unicycle (i.e. not a &quot;giraffe&quot; unicycle, with a chain), the same part of the tire is touching the ground each time you reach the same phase of the pedalling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much more wear occurs in the two places where the pedals are mostly level - i.e. at the point where the legs can give the strongest downstroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is clear that the acceleration being applied to the road is a significant cause of the wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second factor is that unicyclists tend to &quot;idle&quot; (i.e. rock back and forth on the spot, in order to remain stationary) more often (generally exclusively) with their dominant leg down. So, it isn't surprising that one of the two sides wears more frequent than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that unicyclists need to, counter-intuitively, periodically rotate their tyre - move the tyre relative to the rim, so a different section is area of heaviest wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1748" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T16:59:56.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4592" CreationDate="2011-07-01T10:54:15.577" Score="6" ViewCount="1563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suppose most of the people have noticed it. While adjusting both front and rear derailleurs, it will shift accordingly, when you have adjusted or are adjusting it, but when you test it by riding, the adjustment fail to perform the same way, &lt;strong&gt;Why does this happen&lt;/strong&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the added weight affect the shifters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2011-07-01T10:59:28.880" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T03:05:08.890" Title="Why does not the derailleur adjustment work the same way while riding?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4590" CreationDate="2011-07-01T11:04:14.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frame flex under the added weight affects the relative position of derailleurs and shifters, which is reflected in the cable length. Movements of the cable when changing gears are on the millimeter scale, so even lengthening of the cable by a fraction of a mm due to frame flex can have an effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T11:04:14.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4590" CreationDate="2011-07-01T11:26:58.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a good bike with a good chain and cogs and properly lubricated cables and derailers there should be no significant difference between shifting on a shop stand and shifting while riding, in terms of the indexing adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you may encounter a problem is when shifting under load while riding, especially with the front derailer.  The tension on the chain will make shifting more difficult, requiring a bit of &quot;overshift&quot;, especially when moving to a larger cog.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain wear can also be a problem.  The chain is the first part to wear out on a bike, and failing to replace the chain when worn (after 1000-2000 miles) will cause uneven wear on the cogs, resulting in increased difficulty when shifting, especially under load.  And even when the chain is replaced at regular intervals, the rear cluster will wear out after about 5 thousand miles and the front chainrings after 10 thousand or so, making shifting more difficult (and sometimes a bit more of an &quot;adventure&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T11:26:58.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4634" CreationDate="2011-07-01T11:39:53.817" Score="7" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a chain is only supposed to last 2000 miles, a rear cassette 5000 miles and a chainset only 10000 miles, then, at a modest 100 miles a week you are going to go through 2.5 chains a year, a new sprocket set every year and a new chainset every couple of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this near-constant refurbishment properly (and paying workshop rates) will mean paying for the bike twice-over in the first two years (or thereabouts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen components advertised as lighter/stronger/funkier, but, as of yet, none have caught my eye due to their extended 'service life'. Are there any parts sold with 'service life' part of the USP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, why doesn't anyone want extended service life? Do none of us look past the thrill of having a new bike and look for something that will last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T06:38:14.280" Title="Are there any drivetrain components designed and sold to last longer?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4593" CreationDate="2011-07-01T15:09:08.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked this question here (&quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2781&quot;&gt;How much maintenance?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;) as I expect to be in a similar situation (100 miles/week).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=rohloff&quot;&gt;top-quality sealed/internal hub&lt;/a&gt; should make the drive train last longer: it's sealed and will last indefinitely (new oil once/year I think), and without dérailleurs the chain can be inside a chain guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two more points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My bike (new from a reputable LBS) includes 2 free (free of labour-cost at least, not of parts-cost) services/year for the first two years.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The whole thing (frame, wheels, accessories, hydraulic brakes) cost about $1600. That compares with $1250 for the cost of a year of public transport: at that rate I could almost afford to buy a whole new bike every year and still come out ahead financially.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T15:09:08.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4593" CreationDate="2011-07-01T17:22:23.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't help with the longevity of parts, but if you are doing 100 miles per week, you may want to learn to work on the bike yourself, and invest in your own tools.  Let's face it, at 100 miles per week, you'll probably be working on the bike at least a couple times a month (bearings, brake adjustments, flat repairs, etc).  So why not add in the tools to do your own drive train, and lower the cost down to parts alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your drive train, you would need a good set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/l-shaped-hex-wrench-set-with-holder-hxs-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hex wrenches&lt;/a&gt; ($19.95), a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/mini-chain-brute-chain-tool-ct-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain breaker&lt;/a&gt; ($15.95), a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/cassette-lockring-tool-fr-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cassette tool&lt;/a&gt; ($5.99), a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/sprocket-remover-chain-whip-sr-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain whip&lt;/a&gt; ($21.95), and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/crank-puller-for-square-taper-cranks-ccp-22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crank puller&lt;/a&gt; ($13.95).  After tax, this would come out to ~$78 (according to JensonUSA.com), but would give you everything except parts you need to do the work.  I have a hard time imagining that this wouldn't pay for itself within the first year of regular maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also invest in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/cyclone-r-chain-scrubber-cm-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain cleaner&lt;/a&gt;, as they can increase chain life depending on your usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T17:22:23.637" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4597" CreationDate="2011-07-01T18:53:44.897" Score="0" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4479/patch-or-replace-tube&quot;&gt;I asked this question&lt;/a&gt; and got very good answers, but now I have a related question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any special techniques for patching a tube outside of the generic instructions that are supplied with patch kits, if so feel free to post them, this can include how to locate the leak, buff and clean the area, how to mark the position as to center the patch, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can assume this is patching done at home and not on while we are on a ride, but you can post techniques for that also, but please make a note about a repair while on a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comments on types and brands of patches welcomed if they are not already covered in my original question linked above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the Patching advice begin!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T01:10:12.163" Title="Techniques for patching a tube" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2011-07-02T03:17:05.053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4596" CreationDate="2011-07-01T19:46:34.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you should use a patch kit similar to this &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LXJYd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/images/performance/products/medium/44-2005-NCL-TOP.jpg&quot;&gt; , which consists of patches with rounded corners &amp;amp; feathered edges, a small tube of glue, and a bit of coarse sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually you can locate the leak by over-inflating the tube (to about twice normal diameter) and then either moving your hand along it or moving it around near your face (your face skin is quite sensitive to air movement) to feel the leak.  Sometimes it helps to move it around near your ear to hear the leak.  As a last resort, fill a basin with water and use that to detect the bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discard any tube with a leak within two inches of the stem, or with a leak within an inch or two of an existing patch.  And of course discard any tube with a slit or blowout (except in extreme emergency).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marking is tricky.  Often the leak is near enough to the center of the tread area that you can simply center on the tread area and only need to mark the position around the circumference.  Other times the leak is more on the sidewall, and you need to mark both X and Y (so to speak) positions.  (Or you can wing it and try to remember where the leak is.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But remember that you need to abrade the area of the patch (plus at least a half inch beyond its margins) and then spread glue on this area.  This will obliterate any nearby marks, so you need to mark farther away than that.  It's often best to mark on both sides, so you can conceptually draw a line between the marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chalk, a soft pencil, or a fine-tipped felt pen can be used for marking.  (Be sure to test marking first and be sure you can see the mark.)  Avoid using a grease pen, since the grease may get onto the patch area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abrade the area of the patch.  If the patch will fall on top of the mold sprue (seam) on the centerline of the tube, you need to abrade that pretty well -- not necessarily enough to remove the &quot;seam&quot;, but enough to make it lay flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spread on the glue, going about 1/2&quot; beyond the patch margins.  You don't need a lot, but enough to make the whole area shiny and smooth.  (Note, you WILL get glue on your fingers, especially since the finger is the best way to spread the glue.  Be prepared with some sort of towel to wipe your hands, and don't do any of this on your wife's new hardwood diningroom table, nor should you wipe your hands on the upholstery of the new couch.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allow the glue to dry.  Here I may diverge from &quot;conventional wisdom&quot; and the instructions in the patch kit, since I like the glue to be not quite totally dry before applying the patch.  Others like it thoroughly dry, but I find I get better adhesion my way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply the patch.  It comes with a clear plastic top cover and a foil backing.  The trick is to remove the foil without removing the clear plastic, so that you can use the plastic to cover some of the glue while pressing.  After the patch is in place, press it thoroughly, by, eg, rubbing your fingernail back and forth across it.  (The smooth, rounded end of a plastic tire &quot;iron&quot; is useful for this function.)  It's important to do this pressing well, crossing the patch first one direction, then another, applying considerable pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the patch is on the sidewall where you will fold it while folding up the tube for stowage, allow the patch to &quot;set&quot; for at least another 15 minutes, preferably a couple of hours.  And, before folding for stowage, place a bit of tissue over the glued area (even if the clear plastic is still covering it) since the glue, over time, will want to stick to parts of the tube it touches when folded.  (Another option is to thoroughly dust the area with talc.)  You need the same consideration when installing the tube back in the tire, to prevent the patch from sticking to the inside of the tire.  (In a pinch, when you need to put the tube back in a tire and ride immediately, roadside dust is a good stand-in for talc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T19:46:34.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4596" CreationDate="2011-07-01T21:28:03.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After having done this way too many times....and especially on the road....and assuming that an extra tube is unavailable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the leak.* This is easier if you have a pump since you can pump up the tube and go by feel. If you have CO2 cartridges, you don't want to pump up the tube, since you'll waste the CO2. So it's basically, a visual inspection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rub the sandpaper or other abrasive around the leak. (Not an extreme process, just rough up the rubber around the leak site a little bit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply rubber cement around the leaky spot in an amount that goes slightly beyond the patch size. Use your fingers to smear it around a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait a few minutes. 2 - 5 minutes or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the foil from the foil side of the patch. Then, press the appropriately sized patch onto the tube with your fingers. (You can't be too delicate, just push the patch into the rubber of the tube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the tire back together. Pump it up. And go. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Now, finding the leak can be a problem... One method is to carefully run your fingers around the inside of the tire. If it's a nail, bit of wire, a thorn, etc, you'll feel it and identify the tube leak location. -- With a pump, you can pump up the tube...on the road you can feel the leakage location&lt;/em&gt;*; at home, you can immerse the tube in water and see it. -- On the road with only CO2, you'll need to learn to identify leaks visually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Find, the leak location on &quot;the tire&quot;. If it's a bit of wire, or a nail, or a thorn, etc...you'll immediately get another flat. So, check the tire. And this applies whether or not you have a spare tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-07-02T01:10:12.163" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T01:10:12.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-01T22:18:28.960" Score="3" ViewCount="63837" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke my bike in a poor location where I can only find poor rusted bikes. I am switching to one bike with rusted screws, I am trying to get things such as touring back rack and water-bottle holders to the new bike. I cannot find WD-40 here to take the screw out. The comment &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/3/652&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; speculates Kerosene and Naptha as the ingredients of WD-40. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So how can I substitute the WD-40?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I find some physical way to remove the rusted screws in the bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit:&lt;/em&gt; I have solved the problem with time and Coca Cola in one screw. I let the screw to be 2 hours in Coca Cola and I got it off later. I am still unsure whether this is the best solution, at least it tastes good and it is easily available. More this kind of solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a multitool with a file, saw and knives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T22:19:42.913" Title="Good substitutes for WD-40 in emergency situation?" Tags="&lt;emergency&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4599" CreationDate="2011-07-01T23:11:22.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, WD40 is a poor penetrating oil -- Liquid Wrench, et al, are better.  But the Coke trick works, supposedly because of the phosphoric acid.  Another one is to heat the part -- eg, get a piece of iron hot in a fire and then hold it against the fastener for a minute or two.  Works best if you can actually heat the female part of the connection, but tends to work even if you must heat the male screw.  Sometimes heating and then dousing with water will break a part free, if heating alone doesn't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, be careful of any plastic parts, and avoid overheating bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T23:11:22.480" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5574" CreationDate="2011-07-01T23:12:21.060" Score="54" ViewCount="227433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I needed to change the tube as a consequence of a flat tire and I am in the situation that it's just impossible to put the tire back on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In almost ten years of experience with road bikes and MTB, I never experienced this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to use any possible tips, for example from the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1235/1621&quot;&gt;How to get the tyre back on to the rim easily?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time I try, I end up pinching the tube and it's just impossible to put the tire in. How can I fix this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hypothesizing crazy things, like: dilatation of the rim, need of industrial tools, ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit (to address Neil's question): the troubles are given by a 700x23c tire on a 700C rim of a fixed gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1621" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2021-05-19T11:42:04.430" Title="How to get a very tight tire back on the rim?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4596" CreationDate="2011-07-01T23:17:35.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Park Tool Co. sells a kit of pre-glued patches, i.e., &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/super-patch-kit-gp-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/super-patch-kit-gp-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are a bit more expensive than regular patches, but you don't have to bring the rubber cement with you and you don't have to wait for the time that the cement gets dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1621" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T23:17:35.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2011-07-01T23:55:20.663" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, narrow tires can be a bit of a pain, especially when new.  And some rims are worse than others -- rims with a thick cross-section are worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will sometimes notice that there's a &quot;ditch&quot; in the inside of the rim, along the line of the spoke holes.  If so, you can try to work the bead of the tire into that &quot;ditch&quot; so that you get a little more slack in the bead on the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But sometimes you just have to force the darned thing -- use a bigger lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-11-01T23:05:59.497" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T23:05:59.497" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4599" CreationDate="2011-07-02T01:07:19.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes using a flat ended punch with a hammer, on the head of the screw, will loosen it in a jiffy. Not so hard as to distort the fastener head where the tool will not work with it anymore. Brass punches are best but you can use steel if that is all you have. You can make one out of an old screwdriver if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least, Vice Grips, they make nice miniature versions now, perfect for small fasteners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best tool you own is not in the toolbox, it is in your head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T01:07:19.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4610" CreationDate="2011-07-02T01:49:48.200" Score="5" ViewCount="20005" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend just got a new tri bike with Zipp wheels and they are loud when she is coasting.  What causes that?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1637" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T11:13:31.070" Title="What causes the noise that race wheels make when you are not pedaling?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4609" CreationDate="2011-07-02T02:31:40.487" Score="20" ViewCount="72541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to grease my seatpost, and in front of me I've got a tube of &quot;CMD Extreme Pressure Lube #3&quot; that claims to be good for &quot;ball bearings, roller bearings, deep drawing, rivet spinning&quot; and a host of other industrial applications I don't understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this likely to work well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what makes grease appropriate? I'm sure I could pick something &quot;specifically intended&quot; at the LBS tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T21:53:04.710" Title="What makes grease appropriate for bikes?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2011-07-02T05:09:01.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are few options it appears that you haven't already tried, if you followed the advice &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1235/how-to-get-the-tyre-back-on-to-the-rim-easily/1238#1238&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, as you said you did. But it may be that the brand of tire fits particularly tight. You may be best served to move to a different brand of tire, preferably a folding tire, as a Kevlar bead will stretch quite a bit more, and faster, than a wire bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest thing I can say is take it slow. But a bit of talc in the tire, and use multiple, plastic tire levers. Seat the tire by hand most of the way around, and then use a tire lever to hold it, while you use the next lever 2-3 inches from the other end and slowly work back toward the first lever until it pops over and seats. Hopefully, once it's on the first time, it will be less trouble the next time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T12:50:45.580" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4607" CreationDate="2011-07-02T05:29:00.827" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Phil Wood, the owner of the bicycle tool and components company of the same name, once commented that his number one requirement when he was buying barrels of grease for his company, was that it be the exact same green color shade as the previous batch, so that he didn't get too many phone calls asking what he'd changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point is that the &quot;bike specific&quot; greases generally aren't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as functional necessities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not too thin - A thin grease, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slickhoneyusa.com/aboutus.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slick Honey&lt;/a&gt;, will run very smooth, but only for a very short time. If you want ideal performance, and don't mind overhauling your bike every couple weeks, use this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not too sticky - Motorcycle/Automotive type bearing grease tends to be very sticky and very thick. They are designed to thin out at higher levels of heat and friction than a bicycle will reach. So it will last a long time, but will feel tight, and add friction to your bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, buy a tube of Phil Wood or Park tool grease, and feel free to use anything with a similar purity and consistency in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; After reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1487/&quot;&gt;Matthew&lt;/a&gt;'s answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4607/what-makes-grease-appropriate-for-bikes/4611#4611&quot;&gt;on this page&lt;/a&gt;, I realized I hadn't pointed out the 2 cases where the grease matters. In the case of Carbon, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2369/should-i-grease-a-carbon-fiber-seat-post/4351#4351&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. In the case of Titanium, with any non carbon frame, you must use a copper paste grease, commonly sold as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/ti-prep.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;TiPrep&lt;/a&gt;. it is messy, annoying, gets all over everything, but it stays put, which no other grease i am aware of does for Ti.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T14:36:46.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4606" CreationDate="2011-07-02T05:41:44.047" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a part on the hub of the wheel called the Freehub. This is a ratchet mechanism which allows your bike to freewheel, or move forward, even when you are not pedaling. This is different from Fixed gear bikes, which have no freewheel mechanism, and will force your pedals around, as long as the wheels are moving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise you are hearing is the pawls, which are spring loaded teeth. These teeth allow the hub to move forward when you stop pedaling, by moving out of the way. But thy will spring back up and grab the inside of the freehub shell when force is applied from the chain. Meaning when you start pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOTlO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of Bicycle Freewheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This photo is of an old style freewheel, but it illustrates the concept well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is caused by the spring action of the pawl clicking back into place. Because your friend is riding Zipps, which are large hollow constructs of carbon fiber, that noise is amplified particularly loudly. The rims act kind of like speaker boxes, and the noise sounds loud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is unlikely to be any problem with her setup, it's just different than yours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-02T17:56:27.627" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T17:56:27.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4607" CreationDate="2011-07-02T10:15:32.733" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best grease is the grease with the least amount of contaminants. Everything else is secondary to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally grease does not come with contaminants in it, but, in the workshop it attracts any dirt going, as if it were some huge magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, packaging is important. The large tub that you have for the car/motorbike/boat/unicorn cage might not be too well suited to the bike because the small quantities needed for re-packing your hubs might be hard to cleanly dispense. Hence the small tubes, as sold in bike shops, are worth the money even if you already have a vat of the stuff at home. With a tube you can always wipe the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are affordable tubes of grease, e.g. the 'Weldtite' line of 'lithium' grease in the UK, these work absolutely fine and have plenty even in the smallest tubes. There are also more expensive grease tubes with fancy dispensers and fantastic formulations - imaginably these are vastly superior but, in practice, the grease is secondary to pre-load, part wear and correct assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had two identical bikes, one packed with the posh grease and the other with the affordable stuff and did some 'blind riding' I doubt you could taste the difference or find that you would need to service one earlier than the other.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the other hand, if you had a bike refurbished by an experienced mechanic with normal light lithium grease and an identical bike refurbished full of posh marine grease by someone that has to think twice about which way to tighten a bolt then I think the former would have noticeable ride quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes a purchase is of psychological value. I would prefer to have my Campagnolo parts with Campagnolo grease, my Shimano kit with the 'correct' Shimano grease and not feel 'let down' by cheap grease. The affordable lithium grease is light (which is correct) but one imagines it to wash away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your application of the seatpost, the stuff you have will probably work fine, so long as your seatpost is not carbon fibre or your frame not be titanium. Otherwise, you must grease your seatpost unless you want to use the blowtorch to get it out again. The best grease for the seatpost is the light lithium stuff - a light coating of the affordable stuff wins because you don't have uneven distribution or it too greased (needing the seatpin bolt to be massively tight). A third benefit is that you can clean the excess a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T10:15:32.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2011-07-02T11:00:55.610" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only been defeated by the 700c tyre I tried to get on a 27&quot; wheel, but I have came a long way since then and struggled a few times with 'tight' tyres. That said, there is a lot to be said for a tight fit as it usually sits better when fully inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inflate the tube so that 'it has air in it' and looks inflated, but not 'ballooned'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pop tube in tyre so that it is even and snug. For added points put the valve next to the tyre label.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put wheel in tyre. Slot the valve in first and work one tyre bead round so that it sits in the middle of the rim and is fully on. Part way through this process you can let the air out of the tube, i.e. it is at 'atmospheric pressure'. You may need one tyre lever to help this first bead in with extreme cases of bad-fit-ness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work the other bead around, starting near the valve. Use both hands and get the beads of both sides to sit in the middle of the rim. Use some force to keep the tyre already on the rim under tension, this will hopefully create some 'space' at the top (opposite the valve).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should now have one bead on and the other mostly on but forming a straight line where it is not on. In the ideal world you will not need a tyre lever for the last bit, but that is not the case here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pop two tyre levers under each end of the chord. Make sure these are not going over the rim. These will serve to hold your good work already done in place and stop one end slipping off whilst you try to pop the other end over. Wedge these two tyre levers in as best as you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now get the third tyre lever and lift the remaining chord over the rim. Don't start in the middle as this will break your (plastic) tyre lever. Start an inch or two from one of the already present tyre levers. Hoik this segment over and remove the now-not-needed tyre lever next to it. Now, with this just-removed tyre lever, take another inch segment and do the same. Eventually you will have the tyre on and none of the tube pinched.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By now the tyre is on but not sitting on the bead correctly. Work the tyre round again with your hands, seating it evenly as best as you can. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate with trackpump to half the tyre pressure. Remove trackpump and see if the tyre 'sits' on the wheel properly. Do this by spinning the wheel and checking it is all looking reasonable without too much wow and flutter. Also make sure the valve is straight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If required, deflate the tube and correct any bad seating problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now go for it, inflate to tyre pressure, checking that the it is sitting on the bead correctly. Sometimes only lots of pressure achieves this with tight-fit situations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, tighten valve and put valve cap on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a professional finish make sure that you clean the wheel and wash your hands after removing the old tyre. Keeping everything warm also helps, in winter tyre levers can snap if working outside and the tyre not be so 'friendly'. Pop it against a hot radiator to heat it up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some say that a little bit of lubrication helps, in my professional experience I have never found this to be necessary. (I have found twenty empty tube boxes in the bin on a busy Saturday from while-you wait sales before now and not been able to remember doing any of them due to so much else done in the day, and naturally my own wheel/tyre combinations are harder than any customer jobs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T11:00:55.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4599" CreationDate="2011-07-02T11:11:05.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said emergency situation. Just go straight for the drill! Works every time and power tools are so much more thrilling to (ab)use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oxy-acetylene torch doesn't work so well on rack bolts - particularly if there are niceties such a paint to get in the way - but also comes in handy in emergency situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also handy is a tap to put the thread back in and clear rust/corrosion out. Some loc-tite for the new screws to stay in place also comes into its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on how much time you have got, WD40 - although scorned as a lubricant - definitely is of use with seized parts that you don't really want to go-destructive on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T11:11:05.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4606" CreationDate="2011-07-02T11:37:45.750" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bikes have 'freehubs', a design Shimano came up with that is brilliant because it places the wheel bearing outboard of the sprockets rather than inboard, as per the 'freewheel' design that preceded it. Inboard bearings place a shear force on the spindle when going over bumps that can break the spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, Shimano patented the freehub, and rightly so. Their freehubs run reasonably quiet, (with a lower 'note' on the ones with cheap steel sprockets attached to them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other manufacturers are not able to licence the freehub design or are unwilling to pay whatever licence fees Shimano charge. As a result they have their own technical workarounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pawls of a Shimano freehub are placed deep inside the freehub body, the noise they make when freewheeling is therefore insulated, i.e. quiet. Other makes place the pawls inside the hub (Campagnolo) or else they use ratchets instead of pawls inside the freehub body (DT/Swiss). Hence the different noise characteristics of these up-market, high-end freehubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the freehub body from a typical, recent Zipp wheel. As you can see they have not used the original (and totally excellent) Shimano design, the pawls are placed in the wheel, not the freehub-body. Coupled with the aforementioned 'guitar case' of the disc wheel a loud racket is made.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cEHs3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Zipp Freehub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T11:37:45.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4607" CreationDate="2011-07-02T12:18:00.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For greasing a seatpost you wouldn't use the same grease as for a bearing.  For the seatpost you want a &quot;clean&quot; grease, and one that will stick well, not a grease designed to stand the extremes of wheel bearings.  &quot;White grease&quot; or silicone grease would be options, or even a heavy oil.  A hardware store will have options, if you describe the application.  (Not that any great harm will occur from using the grease you have -- it's just that it will be unnecessarily messy and will wash away in the rain a bit too readily.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bearings you'd best use Phil Wood or Park grease from your local bike shop (or online), unless you have an exotic bike that specs something different (in which case follow the specs to the letter).  A small tube of bike grease will last a good while, and it's not a major investment.  But the stuff you have is certainly adequate, and I wouldn't hesitate to use it if it was the only thing at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T12:18:00.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4616" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-02T12:26:28.300" Score="1" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front rim got somewhat twisted. I do not have here the rimmer or the small tools to adjust the pins. According to my friend's version, the outer tire and the inner tire are in fine condition. The twisted rim apparently resulted from riding the bike with plastic bags inside the tire about 10km due to a flat. I think the story of fine-conditioned inner/outer tires sound too good so there may be more problems with the tire. It is at least a fact that the tire rim is twisted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some emergency tips to adjust the rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is it easy to do a rim with proper tools on the road?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can I use 26&quot; rim to the front wheel and 28&quot; rim in the position of back tire?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can the 28&quot; bike use 26&quot; tires of the proper width? The bike has outside derailleur and rim brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T07:12:44.703" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T07:12:44.703" Title="Repairing a twisted front rim in emergency?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;emergency&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4616" CreationDate="2011-07-02T13:02:26.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a professional's job to true and tension a wheel. One worth learning to do for yourself, but not one to jump into without knowledge and the proper tools. No it is not easy to do on the road, except as an emergency &quot; get you home&quot; fix. Very likely, a amateur attempt to fix it on the road will result in more damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, a &quot;somewhat twisted&quot; rim from riding without a tube for an extended period usually indicates a problem with the metal of the rim being physically bent. In order to true a wheel, you add tension to each spoke until the rim is straight and the wheel is round under high tension. But if the wheel doesn't start straight, the spokes will not be tensioned evenly, and the job will not last for more than a few hours, or days if you are lucky. It requires skill, and quality tools, or you will make the damage worse. I would suggest in the future, walking the bike om, rather than risking this kind of permanent damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have disc brakes, you may be able to run different sized wheels in the bike for an emergency, but it will change how the bike handles, and may affect the safety of riding the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike has brakes that grab the rim to stop, then you must use the original size rim to replace it, because otherwise you will have no brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T13:02:26.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4621" CreationDate="2011-07-02T15:39:26.573" Score="11" ViewCount="4330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a hybrid  (Trek Fx 7.3) as a daily commuter and have found a 143mm saddle to be the right width for me.  However I am looking into getting a road bike for long rides and am finding 130mm saddles seem a bit more comfortable on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am new to road bikes, drop bars, and the lower position I am having a hard time telling if the better fit is all in my head.  Would it make sense that the more aggressive stance on a road bike would result in your sit bones effectively being closer together than the upright stand on my hybrid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T14:22:58.510" Title="Should I use a narrower saddle on a road bike than I would on my hybrid commuter?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2011-07-02T16:19:13.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty much in the camp with Dan Hicks.   First, I only put water in 'em.  Second, when I'm done riding, I pop the top and let 'em air dry.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can't recall ever having &quot;cleaned&quot; a water bottle, other than during my mountain-biking days when sand, mud, crud, and assorted dead spiders would encrust same.&#xA;I solved that by going to a hydration pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T16:19:13.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-02T16:26:30.843" Score="5" ViewCount="2679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in central Iowa and travel once a year to the Breck area (Breckenridge, CO) to do mountain biking. Since that is the Rocky Mountains, well they are rocky and steep. Very different terrain from the dirt top soil trails here in Iowa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have some tires they would recommend for the trails out in Colorado? Btw, I ride a 29er.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1725" LastEditorUserId="1725" LastEditDate="2011-07-06T02:39:33.600" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T19:26:20.127" Title="Mountain bike tires for rocky, steep, dirt trails?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;us&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2021-05-12T19:27:52.993" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4618" CreationDate="2011-07-02T16:35:28.210" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a more aggressive stance requires a narrower saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pelvic bone is a fairly complicated structure, but there's basically a triangle that you sit on with a saddle.  There's two bumps (&quot;ischial protrusions&quot;) at the back end that take your weight if you're sitting with your back straight up (such as on a chair or the saddle of a cruiser or dutch bike). The front point of the triangle is the &quot;pubic symphisis&quot; which you don't sit on. Between there it's basically slightly curved like the bottom of a rocking chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Gray237.png&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Gray237.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Gray235.png&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Gray235.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Skeletpelvis-pubis.jpg&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Skeletpelvis-pubis.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you rotate your hips forward (for a more &quot;aggressive&quot; position), your hips should be rotating forward and your back staying relatively straight. Because of that, the part of that ischial/pubis structure that you sit on is more towards the narrow front part and the saddle should be narrower. This can also affect the desired tilt of the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in general, if you're riding more aggressively, all that pedaling removes some of the weight from the saddle and makes any kind of rubbing against the saddle more of a problem, which are additional reasons aggressive road riders may want a narrower saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-07-02T16:52:16.123" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T16:52:16.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4616" CreationDate="2011-07-02T17:57:24.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First verify that none of the spokes is broken.  Next, if you don't have a spoke wrench, remove the tire and the &quot;rim strip&quot; covering the heads of the spoke nipples.  Generally the nipples will have slot for a standard (though thin but with a wide blade) screwdriver.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a suitable screwdriver (try to find one that fits well, wide enough to fully engage both sides of the nipple, with the blade fully into the slot) and see if you can turn any of the nipples at all.  (Sometimes the nipples are corroded onto the spokes so badly they won't turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you have to THINK about it.  The spokes alternate sides, one going to the left side of the hub, the next going to the right.  If the rim is bending too far to the LEFT in one spot, you want to tighten the spokes nearest to this bend that are on the RIGHT side, while loosening slightly those on the LEFT.  This is, as they said in &quot;M*A*S*H&quot;, &quot;meatball surgery&quot; -- you're not going to achieve a straight rim, but you want to get it straight enough that it can turn without rubbing, then leave the rest to a bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lip of the rim is bent (usually outward) from hitting a bump, you can straighten it to a degree using a &quot;monkey wrench&quot; or stout pliers -- tighten the jaws directly over the bent spot and bend inward or outward as needed.  Use a bit of cloth over the outer rim surface to minimize scratches on it that will cause braking problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to replace the rim strip (or cover the nipple heads with some sort of tape), since un-covered nipple heads can put a hole in a tube in remarkably little time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a pinch, yes, you can run a smaller wheel on a bike.  You will, of course, not have brakes on that wheel (and you may in fact have to loosen the brake cable all the way or some such to keep the brake pads from rubbing on the tire).  Be careful braking, and don't do any long downhill runs.  Also be aware that, especially if the back tire is smaller, the ground clearance of the pedals will be reduced, so you will need to be extra careful while cornering.  No need to downsize both tires (and in fact it would be a bad idea due to the brake issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T17:57:24.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4618" CreationDate="2011-07-02T18:14:05.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A significant factor is that the narrower saddle results in less friction on the inside of the legs -- important when you're riding for hours in a relatively fixed position, but less so when riding for shorter periods or in conditions where you're shifting positions frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, the wider saddle provides more support when you're shifting positions frequently but is unnecessary when you ride in a fixed position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T18:14:05.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4618" CreationDate="2011-07-02T19:56:26.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some very good answers on here that go part way to explaining why there are something like 2000 saddles on the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did not mention whether you dress up for your daily commute with padded cycling shorts, however, your hybrid bike is designed for more general use, i.e. jeans and T-shirt, not the padded shorts. Hence it has a padded seat and a chainguard (to keep your jeans out of the chainset).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, the road-bike is designed for riding with the padded shorts (although you can probably get back from the pub on it with your jeans tucked into your socks perfectly fine, even if you have had a few and take the tow-path route back with no lights, ahem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also did not mention what build you are. We all have physical differences, some people have bigger bones, some people have more natural padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the other (very high quality) answers into account, I would suggest going for the narrow seat and investing money in quality padded shorts. Affordable-style shorts will not do, get the deluxe ones and make sure you follow the wash instructions to the letter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also important to get the setup right. You cannot go far wrong with putting the seat (any seat) so that the top is completely level and in the middle of the saddle rails. Then, over time you can fine tune that setup, to make sure you are not repositioning yourself, continually slipping off the front and so forth. Pointing exactly forward is also a detail to get right. An expensive, top-end seat that is setup wrong will give more grief than a seat that is setup as just described. (You should take this into account when choosing your dream-road-bike as some bike shops have nice bikes with seats tilting weirdly and this can put you off the bike as a whole.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T19:56:26.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2011-07-02T20:18:18.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been a while since I have been to Breckenridge, however, from what I remember of the terrain and trails it is 'rocky'. I am not sure that I would like to get caught out on punctures there - this will matter whether you are going into true back-country or finding your way around on resort cycle paths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is for the Specialized 'lightweight' 'Armadillo' tyres '&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=57266&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Captain Elite&lt;/a&gt;' - dual compound, nice and nobbly, good TPI casing, foldable - the wishlist boxes get ticked for where you are riding and what you plan to be doing (that'll mean no mud, then).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the front you can put the 2.2&quot; and on the back the 2.0&quot;, and in 29-er.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I am quite envious - I wish I had got my act together and had the dream to head off to Colorado for cycling this summer! Enjoy, I am sure you will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T19:26:20.127" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T19:26:20.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2011-07-03T07:28:05.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the Schwalbe &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.com/gbl/en/produkte/mtb/produkt/?ID_Produktgruppe=41&amp;amp;ID_Produkt=175&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rocket Ron&lt;/a&gt;. 29x2.25, good, fast rolling knobby with enough width to be stable in the rock garden, and comfy, good cornering feel, and good hook up. It even sheds mud well. i ride it in Pacific Northwest singletrack, including Whistler and Banff, which is fairly similar to Colorado, if not quite as dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-05T08:45:22.747" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T08:45:22.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2011-07-03T14:39:32.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Sigma ROX 9 - It has every feature you could ask for from cycling computer, except the turn by turn directions of a Garmin Edge 800. Including a dock to connect to your PC and Training log software. It's also roughly half the cost of the Garmin Edge 500, and 70% less than the Edge 800, in my area at least. Includes Heart Rate, as well &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-04T05:01:07.660" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T05:01:07.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4629" CreationDate="2011-07-03T17:23:48.647" Score="7" ViewCount="2055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been biking to work ~11 mi and my back hurts from carrying books. I was thinking of buying a pannier and putting my books in it. But I'm not sure if it'll be harder to bike, as I live in San Diego, so there are a few hilly/uphill parts (not like SF though!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience biking uphill with full panniers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1714" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-03T18:08:09.820" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T07:33:02.630" Title="Will it be a problem to bike uphill with a rear pannier with books (~2lbs)" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4628" CreationDate="2011-07-03T18:04:32.740" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the weight will be the same, you won't even notice the change in terms of climbing. You will notice that your back will ache less and be less sweaty. Depending on your bike, it may even balance better with the weight lower to the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biking up a hill with a few extra pounds won't make much of a difference; you only really notice a difference in climbing or handling when you're carrying groceries or camping equipment or passengers. (Or if your bike is not suited to carrying cargo.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you either get two panniers to distribute the weight, or get something like a trunk rack bag so you don't need more than one bag. (You could even get a a basket and toss your existing backpack in it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find more general info about the various cargo systems under the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/cargo&quot;&gt;cargo tag&lt;/a&gt;, or in &lt;a href=&quot;http://magnificentnose.com/2011/06/20/bike-cargo-systems-whats-best-for-you/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T18:04:32.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4628" CreationDate="2011-07-03T18:08:24.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should be a lot easier for you. The bike will have different handling characteristics though. Getting used to this should not take too long, but cycling out of the saddle will feel a bit weird at the start. Plus the front wheel will be lighter on the uphills and when stationary. This isn't a problem, just something to be aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With panniers containing A4 objects you can get a problem with heel clearance so do make sure your panniers are going to be okay with carrying them and that they will fit in without too much void space at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option to consider is a saddlebag of the old-fashioned 'Carradice' variety. This will have enough space for your books and will not have any problem with the contents 'floating about' or getting in the way of your heels. Plus the option will not require a rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R6PkL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T18:08:24.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4628" CreationDate="2011-07-03T18:38:45.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A pannier is the best way to carry weight on a bike.  It keeps the center of gravity low.  While a few people prefer backpacks, most will find a pannier (or two, to keep things balanced) makes for an easier ride (uphill, downhill, or on the level), though at the expense of eliminating that sexy wet spot on the back of your shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use a rack-top &quot;caboose&quot; pack, but it has a higher center of gravity and makes it much harder to swing your leg over the rear of the bike (if that's how you mount/dismount).  A &quot;saddlebag&quot;, attached to the back of the seat, also has a high center of gravity and has limited capacity, but is just fine for a few items.  Slightly less ideal is a handlebar bag -- best used only for light stuff as weight there affects the bike's handling adversely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly, though, bike handling is generally better with weight in front panniers vs rear ones, though front panniers require an additional rack (which must be stiffly mounted) and good-quality (though small) panniers, so that the load doesn't bounce around -- a loose load on the front is not good to have, especially going downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rear panniers you need to be slightly concerned with heel clearance, but this isn't likely to be a big issue unless you have a very short wheelbase bike.  For front panniers you likewise need to consider toe clearance.  For the most part, once you've figured out how to mount your panniers (ie, how far forward/back on the rack) and adjusted things accordingly you'll have no trouble with these issues, except perhaps on that short-wheelbase bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are a number of panniers designed to convert to backpacks (and back).  These are generally neither ideal as panniers nor ideal as backpacks, but they may be a good compromise for your use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-03T18:49:30.293" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T18:49:30.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4628" CreationDate="2011-07-03T20:51:42.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 side baskets on my rear rack, I use them to haul groceries sometimes, Even heavily loaded (20lbs or more) I don't see a huge difference uphill, I guess it depends on what shape you are in physically. Tire pressure can affect pedal effort when carrying a load, I keep my 26x195 at 50-52psi. Check the sidewall of your tire for maximum psi rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T20:51:42.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4599" CreationDate="2011-07-03T22:19:42.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like grease based chain lube. The solvent helps penetration, the grease helps with movement. I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Superior_Drip/superior_drip.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TriFlow&lt;/a&gt;. The advantage is that you can drip it in and leave it , and the grease will get left behind inside whatever you dripped it on. This is, in fact, the exact thing it's designed to do - you drip it on the chain, and it leaves grease behind on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T22:19:42.913" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4593" CreationDate="2011-07-03T22:31:27.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but you pay for them. My commuter bikes is set up specifically to do a lot of distance with little maintenance, and up-front cost was a secondary consideration. Degrading gracefully was important too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have a decent cartridge bottom bracket, the cranks are pretty irrelevant (they all last ages), a decent CNC chainring (it's fairly thick and made of a hard alloy), reasonable quality wide chain and a Rohloff hub. For the last 4-5Mm I've really needed to replace the cog on the hub but I haven't got round to it. It's quite pointy and it's getting close to the stage where the teeth will actually wear through. I also run cable disk brakes, and the ones I use were chose because you can adjust both pads, so as the pads wear it's easy to keep the brakes set up. I also run Marathon/&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/c2-1071-schwalbe-tires-marathon-plus.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marathon Plus&lt;/a&gt; tyres, because they last reasonably well and they tend not to get punctures (my velomobile has a punctured marathon plus on the back right now, and the tyre is only ~3Mm old. Grrr).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of that stuff cost - obviously the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rohloff&lt;/a&gt; was expensive, but the chainring was ~2x the cost of a stock chainring, the BB and chain were ~50% more expensive. The tyres are definitely not cheap, they're expensive even by high-quality tyre standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T22:31:27.370" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-04T04:06:56.483" Score="3" ViewCount="9877" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4202/how-do-i-choose-brake-pads&quot;&gt;my problems with brakes&lt;/a&gt; have turned out to be not an issue with pad longevity at all -- see the following picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NkdHS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brake pads picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note how the one pad is excessively &quot;toe-in&quot; worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of the brakes they came off of, with the parts labeled as far as I know them (with the new pads I just put on...):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWKvE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Erm.. that should say &quot;Centering Adjustment Screw&quot; ... hooray for tpyos!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any way to change if the pads are toed in or toed out... how can I fix this (is it even possible?) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T22:29:47.477" Title="How can I adjust for uneven brake wear?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4635" CreationDate="2011-07-04T04:28:40.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's two ways to adjust the toe in. The metal pad holders that are the other half of the brake pad assembly should have some semispherical washers in them, allowing you a few degrees of adjustment. Loosen the bolt that holds it on, jiggle it to free up all the pads, then squeeze the brake lever to pull the pad against the rim and get the alignment right. Using a wee bit of cardboard or something between pad and rim at the back to set the toe in, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other method is to carefully bend the caliper/brake arm. Obviously it's much better to use the previous method, but if that's not an option, set an adjustable wrench so that it fits tightly onto the slotted part of the arm (just above the brake pad), and twist the arm to a better position. Careful is the word - much better to have to tweak it three or four times than have to bend it back if you go too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T04:28:40.350" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4635" CreationDate="2011-07-04T05:33:52.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I wasn't going to post this as an answer, but I couldn't post the photo otherwise.&#xA;Credit goes to @Moz&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are adjustment washers. I can see them in the picture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rMqSF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enlargement of OP&amp;#39;s original brake photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless that isn't your bike? They don't look like they offer adjustment, but they do.Try tightening the brake pad fixing bolt just enough so that you can feel a little tension on the bolt. Then grab both ends of the pad holder, and try moving it in the plane of the change you're having trouble with. It should move, if a little stiffly. I would leave the bending of the arm adjustment to a shop, unless you are very confident. It's a legit technique, Park even makes a tool just for that, but it can cause permanent damage to the brake if done badly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T05:33:52.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4635" CreationDate="2011-07-04T11:32:11.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the spherical washers are there, just frozen to the brake arms so they won't move (aluminum sticks to aluminum).  You can try completely disassembling one of them to examine the washers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the &quot;uneven&quot; wear you show in your first picture is actually fairly even -- I'd be happy with that.  And, aside from the first millimeter or so, &quot;toe-in&quot; won't affect brake pad wear substantially.  If your pads are wearing out rapidly it's likely due to some other issue -- poor quality pads (or just the wrong ones for your use), rough rim surface, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that pads are available in several different hardnesses, from soft and &quot;grabby&quot; to so rock-hard that you have to be a gorilla to squeeze the things.  Generally, the softer the pad, the faster it will wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T11:32:11.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="974" CreationDate="2011-07-04T12:19:09.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.veloset.co.uk/Wireless-Cycle-Computers/Wireless-GPS-Cycle-Computer-MG-600-Data-Mapping-Software-Odo-Speed-Altitude/prod_12.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Veloset / MainNav MG-600&lt;/a&gt; which logs location using the GPS signals to give speed, trip distance and average speed. There does not appear to be any logging from Cadence sensors but the data that is logged can be downloaded to a PC. This data can then map the route you took and show graphs for speed and altitude over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1762" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T12:19:09.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4641" CreationDate="2011-07-04T13:17:06.830" Score="2" ViewCount="1963" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2583/should-i-change-both-tires-when-i-need-to-change-one&quot;&gt;Should I change both tires when I need to change one?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my road bike, my rear tire has much more wear as my front tire (reported by others on this site as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I switch my front and rear tire to distribute this wear evenly, or let the rear tire wear more and replace only the rear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T13:29:11.740" Title="Switch front and rear tire for distributing wear" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2011-07-04T16:00:15.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4640" CreationDate="2011-07-04T13:29:11.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have flat-spots on the rear tyre and I am not sure whether I would want that on the front. Plus you will be spending a lot longer with the tyre levers if you 'rotate' them. Valves are a bit sensitive too - mess with the tyre/tube too often and the valves can 'waggle' out of the tube. Personally I would let the back one wear out and replace it when it is 'done'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this all changes if you are on a long-distance tour. If you were going from Sierra Leone to Somalia, dodging lions and land-mines, then you probably would not find too many places on the way to stock up on fresh Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres. Therefore, on the long tour, you would do well to 'rotate' the tyres (giving them a good inspect) on a regular basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T13:29:11.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2011-07-05T06:13:22.330" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;A teaspoon of baking soda and warm water, is your best bet.  No nasty after taste at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap and very effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T06:13:22.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4646" CreationDate="2011-07-05T11:33:07.267" Score="3" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my nearest town centre there is a fearsome one-way system with three lanes of traffic. This cuts through the town and is unavoidable - you have to cross it to get anywhere. It is always busy but not at motorway speeds, even if it seems that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point, to get to the cycle lane I must get to the outside of the outer lane. I have a few options to do this. I could stop off at the near-side, wait an age for the traffic to stop for the pedestrians, walk my bike across the road with the pedestrians and get on it again at the other side. Since I am a cyclist I do not want to do this, it is a bit lame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative option is to get into the outermost lane and ride like I am a vehicle as wide as one of those tin boxes - 'vehicular cycling'. This I can do quite easily as I have enough in me to ride at a sensible, i.e. fast pace. I can then make it off onto the cycle lane without upsetting anyone, getting beeped at, hitting pedestrians or wasting time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, sometimes I ride with a friend that lacks the outright speed and acceleration needed for the outside lane. Shouting '&lt;em&gt;don't dawdle&lt;/em&gt;' isn't really going to work and I don't want to go-pedestrian just to cross the one-way system. We have tried going at the extreme outer edge so cars can pass - 'undertaking' - but this makes me feel uneasy. The car beeps are inevitable whatever we try on this section of the road, yet, when I ride the same section by myself with no company I never get any problems with any of the other road users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to ride-like-a-timid-coward when with my friend, I don't want to upset motorists, I don't want to get involved in an accident. I don't want to complain about my friend lacking pace. I don't want my friend to always have a nightmare of a ride - when it should not be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how can I carry out this simple bit of cycling that suddenly seems intimidating when riding with someone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-07-21T13:02:32.600" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T13:02:32.600" Title="Using the outer lane of an inner-city one way system - where do I ride?" Tags="&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4645" CreationDate="2011-07-05T12:11:59.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way you're inclined to do it is the right way, but you're kind of stuck if your buddies aren't as comfortable in traffic, and you want to stick with them.  I rarely face this specific situation, but I've many times run into something similar when making a left turn across multiple lanes -- I just get into the turn lane and make my turn, but other riders are reluctant to leave the right shoulder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, in part your situation is a comment on the bicycle-unfriendliness of many urban road designs.  Designers (who obviously don't ride bikes) think the mere existence of a bike lane is &quot;bike friendly&quot;, when that's really the least of the issues.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I'd add that there's absolutely nothing wrong with being a bit slower than other traffic and occupying a lane for a relatively brief period.  Few people would get upset if a truck did it.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T12:11:59.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4650" CreationDate="2011-07-05T12:53:17.280" Score="17" ViewCount="52006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a puncture and when I went to replace the inner tube I discovered that I'd bought the wrong size tube. My tyre is 700 x 40c, the tube is 700 x 28-35c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is likely to happen if I use this tube? Will the tube explode when I attempt to inflate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T14:11:45.370" Title="Can I use an inner tube that's too narrow for the tyre?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4645" CreationDate="2011-07-05T13:05:03.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It took me a few months of everyday riding before I was willing to leave the right shoulder across multiple lanes to turn left, as suggested by Daniel's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walk across: you can afford to. You're not being &quot;a bit lame&quot;: you're being &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noblesse_oblige#Meaning_and_variants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;generous and friendly&lt;/a&gt; to your less experienced friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to shout about dawdling then you're less relaxed that you'd like to be yourself. Discuss it before-hand rather than during traffic. Maybe do some interval training with/against your friend out of traffic (ride along together and then ... OK! Sprint! Go!) to practice ... to practice changing gears for example, and for you each to learn how fast the other can go, to have shared understanding and realistic expectations (you may be thinking: &quot;There's a gap in the traffic: I'm fast enough to merge into that interval&quot; ... you need to know for sure whether your friend is too, and more importantly your friend needs to know too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T13:05:03.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4647" CreationDate="2011-07-05T13:23:25.817" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience smaller ones go in fine and last as per normal (not that I have pushed this to extremes with a 700x20 in a 700x40 but I only have 26x1.5 MTB tubes and they work fine in 26x2.00 tyres).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allegedly putting a smaller tube in the tyre becomes a problem if and when you repair it, the patch doesn't necessarily stretch with the inner tube and it can come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T13:23:25.817" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4647" CreationDate="2011-07-05T14:20:37.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can, as long as you don't go more than one size smaller, or the differential is not too extreme. A 1.25 in a 1.5 is fine. A 1.25 in a 2.25 is likely to have issues with flats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your LBS will have tubes. Are they that bad that you won't even buy tubes from them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T14:20:37.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4645" CreationDate="2011-07-05T16:38:41.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were driving slow farm tractors, you'd be driving in the rh lane, then you would check behind, signal, move over one lane, check behind, signal, move to the lh lane, smile and thank everyone who slowed for a moment to let you get across. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same on a bike, you don't have a duty to keep out of anyone's way. If they beep, they have seen you. Wave back and smile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1689" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T16:38:41.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-05T17:24:01.223" Score="3" ViewCount="22824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took off about nine months from cycling, then took my Specialized Crossroads Elite (upright comfort bike) to the local bike shop to be tuned up. They replaced the shock seatpost which was slipping. Now I notice that when I start riding, the center of my upper thigh, right at the hip crease, becomes sore almost immediately. This seems to be worse if I bend forward. Do you think this is due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the new seatpost and seat adjustments?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simply being absent from cycling for so long? (I don't remember this feeling after previous long absences, though)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too much flexibility due to lots of hip opener stretches in yoga?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I should do? Adjust the bike somehow? Or just build my muscles up through more cycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1766" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-05T21:24:59.707" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T21:24:59.707" Title="What's causing soreness in front upper thigh?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4653" CreationDate="2011-07-05T18:13:15.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very difficult  to diagnose this kind of pain without being far more directly involved in the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the immediate issues that come to mind are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the level positioning of the seat. It is possible that either due to ineptitude or lack of care, when the saddle was mounted to the new post, it was not mounted in a position properly level to the ground. In some situations it may be acceptable to have the seat tilted slightly nose down, but most saddles are designed with the idea that they will be level to the ground when the bike is sitting on it's wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grab the saddle nose with one hand, and the aft of the saddle with the other. Does it rotate side to side more than 2 or 3 millimeters? That kind of movement can cause friction in unusual places. See to it that the tension on the seatpost is adjusted to minimize the play, or replaced with a better quality post, if adjustment is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Did you also change the saddle at the same time you changed the post? A wider saddle nose, or a wider seat cushion on a saddle can cause friction in the thigh area as well. If the saddle was not changed, and you didn't have these issues prior to the seatpost change, this isn't likely. But worth mentioning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the saddle nose is straight in line with the top tube of the frame. If it is misaligned, it can cause friction or pain. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If none of the are the case, check the seams in your cycling shorts. A bunched or pinched seam can cause that as well, but then it would have nothing to do with the seatpost. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if that helps, or try to give more detailed information, and I will do my best to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T18:13:15.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4653" CreationDate="2011-07-05T20:03:02.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, you need to make it clear whether this is a soreness of the skin, or soreness deeper in -- in the muscles/tendons.  You can develop skin ulcers in creases in the skin due to the friction, and you often won't even notice them until you get onto the bike.  (Cortisone cream will generally clear up such ulcers if they aren't too far developed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But assuming it's soreness in the muscle/tendon, it likely represents an injury to the same.  Sorry to tell you that if this is the case you likely need to rest the injured area to some degree for at least a few weeks.  You can try cutting back on your effort level (gear down and up your RPMs) to reduce the stress on the area, but if the area keeps getting sorer, or doesn't improve in a few days of lighter effort then you'll probably have to quit entirely.  Repeatedly stressing the injury makes it worse.  (Hey! This is why pain was invented -- to keep you from making things worse!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Injuries to muscles and tendons can come about from a single excessively stressful motion, or from repetitive strain, but muscle injury can also come about from sustained effort (tens of minutes) above the muscle's metabolic threshold.  Minor tendon injuries take about 6 weeks to heal entirely; muscle injuries take closer to 6 months.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also, of course, have some sort of arthritic problem with the hip joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T20:03:02.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-05T20:26:36.870" Score="23" ViewCount="20179" Body="&lt;p&gt;What makes a bike stay upright when it is in motion?  What is the relationship between speed and stability?  Is it a linear relationship?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could ask this on the physics site however I am hoping for a relatively simple answer.  I took an introductory class in physics in University so basic physics is appreciated but nothing too gnarly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that it is not the spinning mass of the wheel that is keeping the bike upright.  I read a study recently stating that if you have a wheel with identical mass spinning backwards beside the bike the bike will not lose stability.  (I am not sure where I read the study).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do bikes stay upright when on a roller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-08-25T17:59:00.873" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T23:27:31.983" Title="What makes a bike stay upright when moving?" Tags="&lt;physics&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4656" CreationDate="2011-07-05T20:40:38.120" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question was recently the subject of a lengthy article in New Scientist magazine. To summarize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Why does this bicycle steer the proper amounts at the proper times to assure self-stability?&quot; the paper asks. &quot;We have found no simple physical explanation.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newscientist.com/article/mg21028141.700-bike-to-the-drawing-board.html&quot;&gt;http://www.newscientist.com/article/mg21028141.700-bike-to-the-drawing-board.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article also cites the study that you could not quite place - gyroscopic forces, for so long thought to be the be all and end all of bicycle stability - have been scientifically proven to not be of the consequence popularly imagined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for staying upright on a roller, that is not covered by the article, however, it does discuss what happens when you send a bike off down the street with nobody on it - seemingly the weight and steering adjustments made by the rider have nothing to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that the New Scientist article is the last word on the subject. However it is recent (a few weeks old) and is a good introduction to the mystery. Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T20:40:38.120" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4662" CreationDate="2011-07-05T21:01:28.027" Score="20" ViewCount="38953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a brand new bike.  I keep it in the garage, but my wife has a habit of leaving the garage door up.  Right now, there's nothing in my garage that I can really lock the bike to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I keep the bike at my house instead of in the hands of a thief?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1538" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-05T21:21:31.393" LastActivityDate="2019-10-03T23:11:46.207" Title="How can I keep my bike safe in my garage?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4647" CreationDate="2011-07-05T21:11:05.410" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be perfectly OK, or may experience several possible problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The area near the valve on the tube is the stiffest part, and does not expand as easily as the rest when over-inflated.  This may result in a slight depression in the tire near the valve that you will feel on every revolution (especially if you start thinking about it).  Not a significant reliability issue, but it can be a comfort issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the tube expands in its width from over-inflation, it expands even more in its overall circumference.  The tube can, before it gets &quot;locked in&quot; to the sidewalls of the tire, expand enough that a portion of the tube telescopes on itself, in the short term creating a lump, and in the only slightly longer term creating a stress point that will result in a fairly sudden deflation of the tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And obviously, the tube is being placed under more stress than it's designed for, and it's apt to simply fail, especially near the valve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't hesitate to use the (slightly) wrong size tube for a relatively brief period, as an emergency measure, but I wouldn't regard such a repair as trustworthy over the long haul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T21:11:05.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2011-07-05T21:11:35.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following the standard lock advice makes sense: Spend money on a good, secure lock; feed the lock through the wheels; et cetera. You'll want to follow much the same advice in these questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/937/locking-your-bike-in-public-areas&quot;&gt;Locking your bike in public areas&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/141/best-bike-lock&quot;&gt;Best bike lock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...with the additional wrinkle that you get to control the environment where you're locking up, essentially that you can decide what you lock the bike &lt;em&gt;to&lt;/em&gt;, as opposed to when you lock up in a public area and have to find a good lockup location. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live in a very safe neighborhood, you'll want to scale back some of this appropriately.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike Parking Racks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably the most secure option. Get yourself a small, sturdy rack and attach it to the floor by drilling pilot holes in the (assumedly) concrete floor and bolting the rack there. There are several varieties, including metal racks (your best bet) and small bollard-type racks. (That last is the sort you see on sidewalks, essentially a post with loops in it to feed the locks through.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1529/suggestions-for-outdoor-commercial-security-parking-stands&quot;&gt;Suggestions for outdoor commercial (security/parking) stands&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also make your own rack, either by &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/1990/how-to-join-2x4s-without-mitering&quot;&gt;building an entire rack&lt;/a&gt; (practical if you have several bikes) or simply screwing heavy-duty eyelets into the floor and running a cable lock through it. (Not as convenient, but certainly a cheap, reasonably secure option. As others have indicated here, there are products available to install the latter.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Locking to Existing Stuff&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily a promising option in this case, but perhaps there are a few things that have been overlooked here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a bike rack isn't in the cards (as above), people often can also lock to garage shelving or other permenantly mounted stuff. This is less convenient and messier than a rack, but this can work. One has to make sure that whatever they lock to is securely attached to the garage, or, at the least, extremely heavy and clumsy to move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, there's nothing to lock to... I assume that means this means there's certainly  nothing obvious, like shelving or furniture. Have you taken a look for unused pipes or sturdy shelf bracket? Are there any fittings on the walls that could be used for this?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have anything you store in the garage that's very large and heavy, like a dresser or a headboardor a tool bench? I've seen people lock bikes to cinder blocks... and nothing else; you want something that would be prohibitively difficult to move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask yourself what else you store in the garage. Unused boiler? A potbellied stove you haven't gotten around to installing? A broken car? All of these space-wasters are hard to walk away with, and can make for great impromptu bike anchors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I think the eyelet installed in the floor (or wall) is the best solution here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth mentioning some general advice here: I've seen bikes locked to other bikes and nothing else. I've even seen bikes locked so that the wheels can't turn, but one could pick up the bike and carry it away. A determined bike thief can even pick up a bunch of bikes locked to each other and toss them all in a van. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, additional security can be had by simply hiding the bike so it's not as visible, perhaps behind a bench or a car or a shelf. Keep that in mind when you pick a lockup location in the garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T04:28:50.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2011-07-05T21:13:09.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike needs to be out of view. Any one who can easily see your bike will have an opportunity to steal it. The opportunity to have your bike stolen depends on your neighbourhood and the value of your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not an option find yourself a hook that you can securely attach to either the garage floor or wall and secure your bike with a lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2016-07-13T21:11:46.840" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T21:11:46.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2011-07-05T21:44:35.523" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a floor or Wall anchor system, then lock the bike to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lockitt.com/lockdown.htm&quot;&gt;http://lockitt.com/lockdown.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T21:44:35.523" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2011-07-05T22:18:49.517" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The replacement business for bike-light-brackets is part driven by people that get their bikes stolen to have the lights left behind. A large chunk of these bikes come from bikes stolen from garden sheds and garages. The jaundiced view of sheds and garages is that they act as convenient collection places for thieves. There is also the problem of people finding that the hacksaw on the workbench in the garage has been used to liberate the bicycle(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insurance is also part of the picture. A bike in the garage is sometimes covered with household contents insurance. However, insurance companies tend to take a dim view if doors, windows and garage doors are left open - basically they don't pay up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you have insurance is neither here or there - you want your bike, not a cheque to buy a new one with. @Moab has the correct answer - a big bracket to bolt into the wall or floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other customers for these brackets - motorbike owners. As such the brackets are variously approved by insurance ratings agencies. The German 'Abus' brand make a song and dance about this for their products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is that you get a wall bracket rather than a floor bracket and that you position it at the height you need to get a 300mm D-lock through it, your back wheel and down-tube. In effect you secure your bike as well as you would if it were on the street, locked up to railings. For your other bikes you can chain together more D-Locks (if you are paranoid) or get one big long loop of hardened cable and hook that through the D-Lock and everything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the Abus Granit, widely available from bicycle shops and motorbike shops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFLye.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here it is in close-up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eppOz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have too many masonry drills knocking about then you can get one from a hire shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although expensive, peace of mind is priceless. If you have insurance then there maybe a reduced premium too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T22:18:49.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2011-07-05T22:29:19.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on where you live, of course.  Around here you could leave the bike in the garage with the door open for months, with only a small chance of it being stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, assuming you won't be changing your wife's behavior, and you need to be reasonably secure, the simplest thing to do is to screw a large eye bolt (or two) into the framing in the garage.  (Drill a pilot hole first.)  Use that and a heavy padlock-able cable or chain to secure the bike.  The eye bolt can't be unscrewed while the bike's locked to it (at least not without picking the bike up and twisting it around repeatedly, which small possibility can be prevented by using two eye bolts rather than one).  The eye bolt can be removed by prying it out of the wall or sawing away the stud where it's secured, but that takes time and tools the thief likely isn't carrying.  Of course, it can also be cut with a bolt cutter, but it takes a fairly substantial one, and a LOT of muscle (if you use a heavy enough eye bolt) -- so the bolt is about as secure as the cables/chains you'll be using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, throw a tarp over the bike, or (better) set up some sort of camouflage (a pile of boxes or such) to hide it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T22:29:19.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4656" CreationDate="2011-07-05T22:34:17.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aided by the characteristics of self-stability, as noted above, the basic reason a bike stays upright while you are riding it is that you are actively balancing by keeping the contact points of the bike under your center of mass. As you are riding, you are making subtle turning motions to keep the bike underneath you - when the bike falls to the left, you turn left, which moves the front wheel and puts the bike back underneath you.  On rollers you can see this as the bike moving back and forth across the roller - and when it can't do that, you fall over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are able to do this so unconsciously after learning to ride that it's quite a challenge to ride a bike with the steering reversed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T22:34:17.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4656" CreationDate="2011-07-05T23:12:48.880" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike geometry provides some degree of self-stability.  The angle and rake of the fork produce a situation where the front tire will tend to turn into a lean, and so correct a tendency to fall to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gyroscopic effect of the wheels by itself is likely not that strong, but the gyroscopic effect on steering works with the angle/rake of the fork to turn the tire in the direction of the &quot;fall&quot; and provide even more self-stabilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory rollers are no different from the street -- the front tire will turn towards the direction of lean, either until the edge of the rollers produces a crash or the bike stabilizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T23:12:48.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4656" CreationDate="2011-07-06T00:08:40.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic answer without getting too much into the physics is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angular_momentum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;angular momentum&lt;/a&gt;.  Basically a spinning object (your wheels) exert a force in the opposite direction if you try to &quot;tip&quot; them.  To try this at home, take off your front wheel. Hold onto the axle with both hands and spin the wheel.  Now try to tip the wheel.  Notice how the wheel pulls back.  Try the same with the wheel not spinning and notice how it doesn't pull back.  The faster the wheel is spinning, the harder it pulls back. I'm not sure if the relationship is linear or not.  Take a look here for a more basic look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Introduction_to_angular_momentum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;angular momentum&lt;/a&gt;.  It shows a video doing a demonstration using a bike tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T00:08:40.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4671" CreationDate="2011-07-06T01:03:26.240" Score="8" ViewCount="7871" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I accurately measure the calories burned while using my bicycle?  My bike computer tells me how many calories I have burned.  But it has no cadence meter. The only measurements it has are my weight, distance, instantenous speed, and time (and all information it can derive from that).  Using the GPS on my phone, and the software from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sports-tracker.com&quot;&gt;Sports Tracker&lt;/a&gt; on the same route, I got wildly different results.  The information on sports tracker yielded about 1.5 times more calories burned then on my bike computer.  Now, the GPS has a little more information, like altitude, but the ride was mostly flat. To add to that, there was an elevation drop over the entire route, so I don't know why it would say I burned more calories.  Do these devices use standard formulas, or do they just make stuff up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it even possible to accurately measure the calories burned?  It seems that even if I had a cadence meter, there would still be a lot of variables.  Wind speed would make a big difference.  If you pedal with the wind at your back on a fixed gear, going 30 km/h, you are going to use a lot less energy pedaling the same bike at the same speed if you are going into the wind.  Note that in both these cases your cadence would be the same, but your muscles would be working much harder in the case where you were working against the wind.   Same could be said for things like hills, although this could be done with altitude, although I'm not sure how accurate you could get. Road conditions could also make a big difference, not to even get into the riding characteristics of the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T12:09:00.900" Title="How to measure calories burned?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4668" CreationDate="2011-07-06T02:05:04.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most applications that claim to measure calories burned use a simple equation of your body weight, the time spent at the activity and a (very approximate) number of calories burned per time unit of the activity. I suspect that's where the different results come from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get a better estimate of how much energy you have used I'd suggest a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cycling_power_meter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;power meter&lt;/a&gt;. They give you an accurate measure of how much energy you have used. This can then be converted into calories burned, albeit with an estimation of your efficiency in converting calories to power on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleops.com/en/products/power-meters/hubs.html?page=shop.browse&amp;amp;category_id=20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Power tap&lt;/a&gt; have a range of products that display calories burned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-07-06T02:12:17.257" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T02:12:17.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4668" CreationDate="2011-07-06T02:18:33.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's possible to measure calories burned. To do so accurately you need some sort of power measurement device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More accurate and more portable are the mechanical systems that attach to your bike - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleops.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PowerTap&lt;/a&gt; is one example. These measure torque and speed at some point and work out power from that, often with corrections for various factors (input vs output power being the most obvious).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less accurate but possibly more useful to you for training are the systems that attempt to work out the  biological power input. They work by measuring the difference between inhaled and exhaled oxygen or carbon dioxide, and generally use terms like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VO2_max&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VO2 Max&lt;/a&gt;. The apparatus for this is not even vaguely portable, so from those numbers they derive a relationship between your heart rate and your moving average power output (the response is not instantaneous), and on from there to your total energy output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheap systems you see advertised will either measure bicycle speed and from that attempt to guess your power output, or measure your heart rate and guess likewise. Obviously the &quot;what sort of bike do you have&quot; and &quot;what sort of hreat rate response do you have&quot; questions are at best vague approximations to the truth and will vary over time. But the measurements are dramatically cheaper to make so they're consequently more popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few years ago a friend looked at various mechanical systems and decided that PowerTab was the only system that was usefully accurate for him. We did break a couple of the cheap systems while trying to improve their accuracy, but that was acceptable because as sold they were useless to us. The VO2 systems are the definitive training aid because they tell you more than just average power output, and the other outputs are actually more useful than power output. Mechanical systems are the easy, every day measurement that gives you your overall progress, or for us, lets you evaluate the vehicle performance as well (to some extent we don't care whether you are five seconds faster at the same power output because the vehicle is more efficent, it fits you better or you have got stronger, we just care that the combination is more efficient).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T02:18:33.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4668" CreationDate="2011-07-06T02:52:03.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt that it's possible to accurately measure calories to better than, say, 20% error (as compared to a laboratory measurement).  Among other things, two people doing the exact same amount of work can burn significantly different amounts of calories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your options are to approximate an ergometer or to use some proxy for effort such as heart rate or respiration measures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ergometer is conceptually simple -- measure instantaneous force and speed, multiply the two to get power, then integrate that over time to get total energy.  Then relate that energy to calories burned, presumably using a formula for the &quot;average person&quot;.  But force on a bike changes dramatically with every few degrees change in pedal position, so the signal will be exceptionally &quot;jumpy&quot; and hard to process with good accuracy.  Plus, as stated, it does not directly relate to caloric effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proxy techniques, of course are even less accurate, since they presume that physiological measurements can be related to caloric effort in some predictable fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T02:52:03.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2011-07-06T03:24:20.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I do want something durable and that will climb well on lose dry dirt, dead pine needles, and rocks. My current tires (S-Works Fast Trak LK) just never felt like they would hook up last year. I played with different tire pressures and nothing seemed to help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Climbing &quot;well&quot; on loose dry dirt and dead pine needles (not to mention rocks) might be a tall order for a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't already, perhaps adjusting your riding style might also help: see for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/190/how-can-i-pedal-in-circles/200#200&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T03:24:20.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-06T04:46:09.230" Score="14" ViewCount="5353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of getting a new bike, one with a Pannier or Cycle rack; my job requires me to travel with a Macbook Pro and there are several issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1). I am worried about crashing/wiping out and breaking the MBP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a recommended crash-proof bag, or a bag that securely fastens it so that it does not bang against either the side of the pannier; or when you put the bag on the floor it doesn't hit the laptop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at the Hardcase shell and the bags you can get for MBP at a local Apple store; however they look flimsy as hell and only appear to be there to reduce scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Are hardcase shells (as sold in the Apple stores) designed to withstand this kind of damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2). The additional weight will make the bike sway around corners, when braking, or when climbing up hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a particular problem that I am unsure how to solve.  I could carry the laptop on my back, but ideally I want to move the weight from my shoulders to the pannier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible solution would be to put a counterweight in the opposite bag, but this means carrying much more weight than I need to; additionally I do not have anything to act as a counterweight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible solution is to put it on the central (top) pannier rack behind the seat and use straps, etc to securely fasten the laptop bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with this is rain, especially if its sitting flat, it'll just collect moisture, and soak through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am based in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1770" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-06T19:34:34.963" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T11:52:26.893" Title="Crash-proof Laptop bags for MacBook Pro for Bicycle?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4674" CreationDate="2011-07-06T05:05:31.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never seen anything that would do this. I've done a lot of looking over the years because I carry camera gear as well as laptops, and neither like the hammering they get when attached to the bike. My solution is insurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly, the problem comes down to suspension. On your back the load gets the benefit of your soft, flexible body and your tendency to lift off the seat before you hit big bumps. That last is key - whatever suspension your pannier offers has to be able to cope with a nice hard thud as you bounce off a kerb or through a pothole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've seen used is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/cartgenie/prodList.asp?scat=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ortleib backpack&lt;/a&gt;, which is nicely waterproof and can use the padded laptop sack that goes inside it. You could use that sack as intended in a pannier on your rack, but even with a solid state drive I expect your laptop to fail within 5Mm if it's in the pannier. On your back it shouldn't be affected. Likewise, a decent courier bag (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/CartGenie/prod-53.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ortleib again&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crumpler.com/us/Casual-and-Messenger-Bags/Messenger-Bags.html?LanguageCode=EN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crumpler&lt;/a&gt; or other)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I actually use is a standard pannier with a home-made foam inner to pad the laptop. That gives more padding than anything I've seen commercially available, and it's cheap. Find a shop that sells slabs of foam, buy one the size of your pannier, cut a slot in it to take your laptop. If you buy two panniers inevitably the second one will fill up with stuff, balancing the load. Trust me on this :) Mine has my wallet, puncture kits and multitool, lunch, rain jacket, phone charger, I dunno, suffice to say that it weighs at least as much as a laptop does. And I only carry the one pannier and the offset weight isn't an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hardcase sheel that will withsand a crash is going to weigh a lot. There's some discussion in this answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4285/secure-storage-for-running-errands/4290#4290&quot;&gt;Secure Storage for Running Errands&lt;/a&gt; and in this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/959/ever-seen-a-locking-bag-that-could-be-locked-to-the-bike&quot;&gt;Ever seen a locking bag that could be locked to the bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T05:05:31.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="514" CreationDate="2011-07-06T05:15:33.963" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the late answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to persuade your wife that she will be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you can make the bike more visible, as the other answers suggest, but this is probably an emotional issue rather than a reasoned one. She &lt;em&gt;feels&lt;/em&gt; less visible on the recumbent. The solution to the feeling is not so much reasoned argument as it is to start riding and focus on riding in places that she feels safe. Try to balance that against being exposed to motorists, so look for quiet back streets and places where bike paths cross roads. Avoid car parks because those are insanely dangerous even if they're low-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If she doesn't have a recumbent yet, a velomobile might also help. The combination of feeling somewhat enclosed and actually being surrounded by a huge blob of colour does wonders. Not to mention the (almost always positive) comments the velo gets. Faling that, a tailbox is a useful addition - it provides storage as well as a block of colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rnmf3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;velomobile being admired&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T05:15:33.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4674" CreationDate="2011-07-06T09:08:38.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fairly hefty notebook and a smaller netbook that I carry with me by bike. For short journeys I prefer the rucksack as I can then nip in and out of shops easily. I carry the netbook in one of those neoprene cases and the notebook in a scruffy jiffy bag. Both have survived quite well like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For longer journeys (25 mile per day of riding with train to catch in the middle of the commute) I don't like carrying stuff on my back. Panniers never really worked for me as screws rattled out of the notebook, it was too low (and likely to be knocked), I had the weight to one side problem and, worst of all, I kept catching the pannier with my heel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are panniers for laptops that angle weirdly and give the heel clearance but the weight balance problem is worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution was an accidental one - I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carradice.co.uk/index.php?page_id=product&amp;amp;under=range&amp;amp;product_id=35&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carradice 'long-flap' bag&lt;/a&gt; for my retro bike and found it to be much better on my commuting bike for carrying the laptop (again in no more than a Jiffy bag). Water-proofing was not a problem (cotton duck, not nylon) and the weight seemed more natural placed behind my seat. The aerodynamics are also better (never under-estimate aero) and the side pockets prove to be invaluable for luxury ready eats in one and bike tools + tube in the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I win lots of nice comments about my retro-Carradice bag from cyclists and the handbag-coveting ladies of the world. I can also carry lots of spare clothes, shopping and A4 sized objects in the bag. It does not scream 'laptop - steal me please' and is now my favourite bike accessory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy British, pay around £65 and get the SQR bracket (I forget how much they are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQhHE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-08-23T11:52:26.893" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T11:52:26.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4668" CreationDate="2011-07-06T13:11:21.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Number of calories burned is proportional to the heart rate. Get a good heart rate monitor (I use a Garmin 305 - &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000CSWCQA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-Forerunner-Receiver-Heart-Monitor/dp/B000CSWCQA&lt;/a&gt;) which takes into account your heart rate, altitude, weight, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T13:11:21.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4674" CreationDate="2011-07-06T14:09:21.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally use a laptop sleeve inside a regular bag.  This has the advantage of not only working in a backpack but also in panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sleeves from pakuma seem to be particularly bulky with plenty of protection, something a lot of sleeves aren't so good at.  I haven't actually had a crash though so I can't really say what happens then.  In regular use I've been cycling daily with my laptop in the pacuma sleeve with no ill effects though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8izLU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pakuma Laptop sleeve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pakuma.com/products/eco2bag.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.pakuma.com/products/eco2bag.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you take this approach remember to ensure your method of carrying is water proof.  You can get after market waterproof backpack covers if necessary.  In fact for cyclists you can get nice high vis ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to the weight issue etc. I've recently started carrying it in a pannier and I simply use the one and I've not found the weight to be an issue.  You need to be a little careful but that's normally more when you're walking with the bike than when actually riding.  Your mileage may vary of course, but I suspect you're over thinking the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastEditorUserId="1131" LastEditDate="2011-07-06T14:18:16.970" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T14:18:16.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="491" CreationDate="2011-07-06T14:16:54.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you're still having this problem, but this could be useful for others, so I'll go ahead and answer it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest I wouldn't bother trying to fix a gear indicator, especially a front one. It's not difficult to remember which chainring you're in and opening up the shifter is definitely going to invite problems for inexperienced mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What Chris said is probably wrong: the gear indicator will not be affected by cable stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above notwithstanding, this is a very easy problem to remedy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Shift the chain to the lowest chainring (least cable tension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.5) Slide the shifter off of the bar if possible. (This step is not strictly neccesary, but I find it makes things easier.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) There should be a number of small allen key heads around the top of the shifter. Undo these and carefully remove the top cover of the shifter. Take a picture of the internals in case anything falls out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) The top cover is composed of the cover and the bar clamp (which contains the gear indicator). All of the working parts are contained in the lower part of the shifter. In the middle of all of these you will see a cog which is raised up and doesn't appear to mesh with anything. This is what drives the indicator. On the underside of the top cover you will see a toothed strip of plastic: this is the indicator. Slide it with your finger to '1' (which is where you should have shifted to at the start).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Put the top cover back on and put the shifter back on the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T14:16:54.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4656" CreationDate="2011-07-06T14:19:45.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its like balancing a broom on you hand, you steer to move the wheels under you. Bike manufacturers help by designing the steering geometry so that the bike will stay upright on its own, if you don't mess with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gyroscopic forces help but are not essential.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1689" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T14:19:45.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4716" CreationDate="2011-07-06T14:29:21.170" Score="17" ViewCount="3661" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you look at the complete journey from bauxite to bicycle via China, a big container ship and the bicycle showroom, there probably is quite a lot of CO2 emissions involved in making a new bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are their any easily quotable figures for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any handy equivalent metrics, e.g. equivalent to &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; miles in a family saloon or equivalent to &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; hundred packets of &lt;em&gt;Walkers Crisps&lt;/em&gt; (at 80g per pack)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know a generally agreed figure as I have found myself being stumped in conversation with motorists that (after conversation has moved onto their planet trashing ways) have the cheek and audacity to criticise cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is that they go ad-hominem, 'pointing out' that buying a new bicycle is 'bad for the environment', particularly one made on the other side of the planet. Rather than have no defence I would like to be able to say &lt;em&gt;'yeah but that is only equivalent to x hundred of your gas-guzzling miles/hours 'sat' in traffic.'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done a carbon audit for a bicycle yet? If so, are there any particularly low-carbon bikes out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mention the Walkers Crisps in passing - no I don't want to know that cycling has a huge footprint if the fuel (food) is caviar/fancy-mini-corn from Zambia/lamb from New Zealand/fish from the Arctic (or even a nice pack of Prawn Cocktail crisps prepared with sunflower oil grown in Eastern Europe). Just the carbon footprint from whatever bike brands have bothered to measure it, not the on-going fuel costs (food).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2019-01-26T19:47:10.933" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T19:47:10.933" Title="What is the carbon footprint of a new bike?" Tags="&lt;design&gt;&lt;resource&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4682" CreationDate="2011-07-06T14:40:35.470" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have numbers on hand. But if you're after a cogent argument, I would point out that the car they drive has a far larger manufacturing footprint, even assuming it is manufactured in the local economy, which is rare. If it is, then was the raw steel manufactured there or shipped in? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that argument of theirs to be effective, they must start with the idea that their car popped out of thin air. Even assuming that the manufacturing footprint is identical, the car continues to build that carbon debt, while the bicycle mostly ceases to charge that card after the manufacturing is done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there will be minor maintenance items, and consumables like tires and tubes, but the car has those, too. No matter how you look at it, a bicycle doesn't burn fuel to function and a car does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the car will use far more resources over the course of it's useful life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, whether you believe that global warming is real and important, or not, it will affect your finances far more to drive a car than to ride a bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-02T14:18:20.797" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T14:18:20.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4702" CreationDate="2011-07-06T17:10:07.697" Score="0" ViewCount="1131" Body="&lt;p&gt;No time research this now, so has there ever been made a 28 hole front or rear drum brake hub? I know that Sachs and Sturmey-Archer have done a lot of drum brakes. Neither to my knowledge have such a hub in production currently. The reason for asking this is that I have 2010 version of Kona Band Wagon and I'd like to move to using drum brakes, but also retain the current rims that are 28 hole rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1774" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T22:37:43.553" Title="Is there 28 hole front/rear drum brake hub" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4686" CreationDate="2011-07-06T17:25:02.020" Score="11" ViewCount="23888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently in an accident where a car pulled out on me. I hit the car around the front wheel and me and the bike went over the bonnet and landed on the road, the other side of the car. I was travelling around 20mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is in one piece but I'm super-wary of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several people have suggested getting the fork and frame X-rayed to check for fractures. How exact is this science? How certain can you be that the frame is road-worthy? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has an Aluminium frame with a carbon fork and Alloy wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T15:51:56.507" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T18:11:30.133" Title="How can I tell a bike is safe after a crash?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4685" CreationDate="2011-07-06T17:37:52.417" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easy way would be to get a qualified bike mechanic to take a look at your bike for less noticeable problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not safe to ride a bike if the frame has been noticeably disfigured.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-adjust the wheel to be aligned to the handlebars. The wheel tends to twist after crashes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go through the final safety inspection you would normally go through, check the tyres, brakes. Replace the brake cables if they are frayed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T17:37:52.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4693" CreationDate="2011-07-06T19:37:10.143" Score="9" ViewCount="16809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at a lot of the coverage of the Tour de France. All of the attention is on the cyclists, and no attention whatsoever on the cycles. Even in photographs or videos, they are so far away, or the bikes are moving by so fast, you can't tell what they are riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I definitely can't afford whatever kind of bike they are using, and it would be horribly impractical for me to ride one since I'm commuting, not racing. I'm just very curious as to what is the top of the line in terms of bikes. When I look at high end bikes in shops or online I can't tell if they are actually superior or if they are just loaded with expensive gimmicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What frames, brakes, seats, gears, tires, etc. are the world's top competitors using?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1332" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T21:46:39.507" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T16:07:07.910" Title="What kind of bicycles do they ride in the Tour de France?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;racing-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4687" CreationDate="2011-07-06T19:48:35.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/race_performance/madone_6_series&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek Madone 6 Series&lt;/a&gt; is pretty typical...US teams have ridden these for numbers of Tours and other famous stage races as well.&#xA;You can buy essentially the same bike; it's a top of the line carbon frame with the top-of-the-line components installed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the &quot;team&quot; bikes are made by other manufacturers and simply painted with appropriate team colors.  Bikes are of course built up to the individual rider's specifications so that fit is perfect.&#xA;For many years,  it was no secret that many of the team bikes were Lightspeed frames fitted with top-level Campy components and simply painted appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2011-07-06T21:33:59.997" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T21:33:59.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4700" CreationDate="2011-07-06T20:37:58.903" Score="4" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given a &quot;standard&quot; cyclist's wardrobe (e.g. paddded shorts, jerseys, moisture-wicking t-shirts and socks--made of blends of lycra, spandex, wool, and other &quot;specialty&quot; fabrics) what special-care products are good to have to ensure longevity of the garment and its functionality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've so far been using a cold-water delicate-cycle wash with a free &amp;amp; clear detergent and line-drying.  My only issue is I've noticed some base layers still have a bit of odor left-over, certainly not enough to need a second wash--but presumably due to either sub-par cleaning technique or products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T07:34:46.273" Title="Cycling clothing care products" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;clothing-care&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2011-07-06T21:06:30.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To eliminate odor, go to a hunting supply place (eg, Cabela's in the US) and buy some of the stuff intended to wash hunters' clothes and get all the human scent out.  (You put an ounce or two of the powder in the machine with a small load of clothes and your standard detergent.)  This does an outstanding job at eliminating latent body odor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T21:06:30.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2011-07-06T21:28:33.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do the same thing you do... Except, I run an additional rinse cycle with vinegar prior to the final plain water rinse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just fill the bleach compartment with vinegar instead of bleach. Set the cycle, hit the button and the machine does the rest. I think it's about 1/4 cup of vinegar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My washer is a fairly new front loader with almost too many options, so I can program special cycles allowing the vinegar pre-rinse. With my old top-loader, I would do a vinegar pre-rinse in cold water in a pail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also used a product called, &lt;em&gt;WIN High Performance Sport Laundry Detergent&lt;/em&gt;, which worked fine but not any better than the vinegar pre-rinse. You can get this stuff and similar products at sporting goods stores. The speciality products tend to be a bit expensive though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T16:41:37.330" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T16:41:37.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4687" CreationDate="2011-07-06T21:30:30.623" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The focus is on the riders, because the bikes are just not so different from one another. The UCI (international cyclists' union) tightly regulates what shape and weight the bike must be, and what technical solutions are acceptable, so the sponsoring manufacturers can only compete on relatively minor features such as aerodynamic tubing or frame stiffness. These are of no practical importance to an everyday cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical racing top-level bike nowadays will have &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;an aluminum or&lt;/strike&gt; carbon fiber frame, with increasing focus on aerodynamics over weight (because it's relatively easy to achieve the UCI minimum weight of 6.7kg regardless)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;always a carbon fiber fork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;either super light or aerodynamic wheels, depending on the type of rider and needs of the particular stage &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;either Campagnolo Super Record, Shimano Dura Ace, or SRAM Red component set, depending on who's the sponsor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="130" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T16:08:42.427" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T16:08:42.427" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4699" CreationDate="2011-07-06T22:11:36.360" Score="3" ViewCount="1966" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current saddle on my bike is getting past it use-by date, so I will shopping around for a new one. I use my bike for commuting to work, about 40-45 mins, 50% on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chipseal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seal roads&lt;/a&gt; and the rest on forest trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current saddle is a non-sprung version with a high density foam padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a Giant Cypress from a few year back. Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/cypress.dx/7354/44064/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2011 version&lt;/a&gt; but it is pretty much the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen saddles that are spring loaded and are tempted to go for them. However, I fear that I will be bouncing too much as I ride along. My current saddle is not spring loaded but I I get a very small amount a numbness around the crotch area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1657" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T19:21:22.080" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T19:21:22.080" Title="Is a sprung saddle the answer to the saddle problems on my commuter bike? " Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4682" CreationDate="2011-07-06T22:20:20.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This information is never gathered correctly, corporations really don't want you to know the actual numbers, otherwise it would have a very negative impact on manufacturing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own an older 91 GMC pickup truck, some greenies see me as a polluter, but I say I am not, I have owned the truck for 13 years, purchased used, keep it tuned and emissions test passes every year. I plan on keeping it another 5 years or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a relative that buys a new car every year, sometimes after 9 months, who pollutes less in 13 years, me or my relative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a recent study, (can't find it right now) about notebook computers, they found that manufacturing one will consume more energy than the laptop will consume while using it for its life expectancy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this does not quite compare to bicycles, but you see that global manufacturing has a high carbon footprint. Raw Materials come from all around the world to other countries that refine them into other base products, ship them worldwide to other countries to make final product used in manufacturing, then they ship the final material around the world to manufacturers to make the final product, then they ship the final product around the world to sell. You drive to the store to purchase it or UPS delivers it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-use, keep and maintain, and do without is what I have always done. 90% of the stuff we own, we don't need and rarely use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, both my Bicycles are used. Upgrades and accessoried are used when I can find them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T22:20:20.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4685" CreationDate="2011-07-06T22:34:45.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should have dragged it with you in the CT scanner when you went through! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A really good set of trained eyes will do the best to inspect it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Xray will not find tweaks, bends or stretches, which could turn into cracks later on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to build your own bike and have expensive hardware on the crashed one, you can probably salvage a lot of non critical parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt get another bike, its not worth the risk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T22:34:45.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4694" CreationDate="2011-07-06T22:37:59.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never liked them myself, too much movement for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a preference, and performance of that type of seat may be affected by the weight of the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T22:37:59.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4684" CreationDate="2011-07-06T23:06:53.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on where you live, however, in the UK the only widely available hub brakes are the Shimano Nexus series. These are 36 hole and can be retro-fitted to an existing bike designed for rim brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you will be needing spokes as well as the hubs, consider getting some rims that will work with your hub brakes, i.e. not needing the surface for the rim-brake. Have fun building them up or pay the small fee that a professional wheel builder will charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visit a good shop and go out on a bike that does have Shimano Nexus - try before you buy. They may not be what you are looking for - with performance benefit in the wet but not with the feel that you are used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally 36H is a good idea for wheels that have the stopping gubbins in the centre as the forces are different to that of a rim-brake wheel - you are decelerating the centre and exposing the spokes to more force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By building a new set of wheels you will be able to keep the old wheels - or find a friend to take ownership of them - and not have a bunch of left over hubs 'n' spokes kicking around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T23:06:53.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4694" CreationDate="2011-07-06T23:19:09.953" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to despise the antiquated look of sprung saddles - then I got one on my retro-bike. Despite all of my preconceived opinions I immediately took to the sprung seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly not for the road-racer, the sprung saddle has its place in regular riding, where roads are not exactly smooth. Given the choice of a couple of springs in the seat or a Kona-tractor-style-rear-suspension setup, the couple-of-springs has elegance in how it delivers comfort. Energy lost through compressing the springs is actually returned with marginable 'pedal bob'. The weight of the springs is negligible, your back wheel will thank you for them, even though only you and not the bike is being suspended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the roads you describe I would definitely recommend a sprung saddle. You would not drive those roads without the weight being suspended, on the bike your legs are the suspension, it would be nice to give them a break after a hard day's work, so why not go with the sprung seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T23:19:09.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2011-07-06T23:46:59.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fundamental problem with synthetic garments is that some of the fibres (particularly early nylon and current polyester) have spaces within the fibres that are perfect-sized cocoons for growing the bacteria that give rise to body odour. 'Boil wash' the garment to kill the bacteria and you damage the fabric. Cold-wash to look after the fabric and you don't kill the bacteria. It means you cannot win on a regular machine wash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned vinegar (an acid) works to kill the bacteria. The same goes with a domestic alkali such as baking soda. If this pre-wash is too much effort and you just want the bacteria killed then you can get TAED or 'oxy' add-in for your wash - same aisle as the regular washing powders, smaller packs. This works at low temperatures and with my clothes but there is no way in a million years that I would advise an 'Assos' garment (or equivalent) be washed with TAED.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also invest in the base-layers that have silver particles embedded in them. These are up-market garments that cost a bit more but pay off in the no-smells department.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of use is a dehumidifier, the DeLonghi DNC65 will work wonders in the changing room at work or at home in the winter months to purge moisture from the air where your clothing develops its pong. A lot of life's problems were solved with the DNC65 for me and my invariably damp cycle attire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aim of the game is to not have the bacteria grow, it is therefore best to shower before riding to work (not at work) as fresh sweat does not smell - just the bacteria that develop 12 hours later (when you are home). Therefore, clean body and no bacteria gets transferred to the clothing - it stays that bit cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think anything can be done with cheaper fabrics that get infested with bacteria - a good set of quality items, washed as per the instructions and kept scrupulously dry in-between rides with a bit of 'oxy' added to the wash is the best strategy. You also want to avoid merely disguising smells - the deodorant strategy - as that does not really work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T19:40:40.253" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T19:40:40.253" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4685" CreationDate="2011-07-07T00:31:15.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to hear about your accident - be prepared to take a while to physically recover even if you want to get back on the bike now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have the option to chase things up with the driver's insurance company, but honesty is the best policy and you should only go for the 'write off' claim if your bike is truly mis-shapen. You also have to be aware that chasing up an insurance claim takes time and effort, time that you could be using more productively. A claim can be emotionally stressful and I personally prefer to walk away from following that avenue because an accident does not need to be re-lived, just moved on from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for judging whether your bike is truly pranged, straighten up the bars and go for a small, low-speed ride in a car-free area with smooth surfaces, e.g. a car-park after hours. Take your hex-wrenches with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride around and feel your bike. There may be brake levers out of place and other parts that can be adjusted back. These parts are surprisingly resilient but not totally crash-proof so inspect any parts that you need to reset. Your hands should have their own memory of where the bars were and you should know (and be able to double check) if the bars have been bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels also survive reasonably well considering how they are constructed out of a few bits of wire and a 20mm or so wide rim. Make sure they are centered in the frame/fork properly and that they are true. If off-centre then you may have a damaged fork - double check this by taking the front-wheel out and putting it back in turned 180 degrees - if it is still off to one side then you have a sideways-bent front fork. As for the back wheel, that can be out of track, a similar process of checking is needed to determine that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look down your head tube and how the forks meet up. Are they parallel to the head-tube like they used to be? Is the steering more twitchy? If so then the fork could be pranged, but not necessarily, the frame could have bent instead. Examine where the top tube and down tube join the head tube - are there any bulges underneath or paint that is flaking off/wrinkled? If this is the case you have a damaged frame, damaged but not necessarily unsafe, aluminium does not catastrophically fatigue after being bent once and, although a different shape, may not be any weaker. I have ridden front-stacked frames for a long time after the incident and even preferred the added twitchy-ness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you will need a bit of string. Wrap it round from the left-hand rear dropout to the head-tube and back down to the right-hand rear dropout. Now check that the seat-tube is in the centre of the two bits of string. If it is not bang-centre then you have a tracking problem - either historical or fresh from the crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run through the gears and make sure you do not get any noises from the front derailleur. Check the rear derailleur is perpendicular to the ground when the bike is vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that initial inspection over you should double-check your carbon fork. Generally carbon forks are a lot stronger than their alloy/steel counterparts but they have a different failure mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all carbon forks have a carbon steerer, some can be a clumsy mess of glued together bits hidden in the head tube. Your stem is easy enough to remove, pop it off and have a look at what is going on around the lower bearing race. Give it a good clean and inspect for cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X-ray scanning will not be able to detect any of the problem areas that you will be able to see for yourself in a quiet car-park with a bit of string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a second opinion ask at your LBS, preferably one that deals in second hand bikes. Shop staff that assess trade ins should be able to spot crash damage at fifty paces, your regular mechanic at a new-sales-only shop may not be so tuned into checking this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T00:31:15.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4684" CreationDate="2011-07-07T00:31:43.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen 36 and 48 hole brakes, but not 28. 28 strikes me as an unlikely number because hub gears/brakes are not usually made for especially lightweight bikes. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/shimano-nexus.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Harris Cyclery&lt;/a&gt; only have 32 hole and 36 hole in their parts list, and I can't really make enough sense of the Shimano web site to really be clear on the options. Note that Shimano make &quot;roller brakes&quot; rather than drums, and those clip onto the side of the hub. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sturmey-archer.com/products/hubs/cid/2/id/28/specs/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sturmey Archer drums&lt;/a&gt; all seem to be 36H.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to really work at building the wheel you could cross-lace a 36H hub into a 28H rim, but you wouldn't get an especially strong wheel and it would take a lot of work (I expect you'd have to do it experimentally and that really means having a range of spokes sizes available on a &quot;pay for what you use&quot; basis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T00:31:43.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4682" CreationDate="2011-07-07T00:51:38.937" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ibiketo.ca/blog/2009/07/13/embodied-energy-our-vehicles&quot;&gt;simple answer from iBikeTO (2.11MJ/km  over the lifecycle)&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ptua.org.au/myths/energy.shtml&quot;&gt;another from the Public Transport Users Association (0.8Mj/km)&lt;/a&gt; here in Victoria. Both are IMO unrealistically low. Brad Templeton has some &lt;a href=&quot;http://ideas.4brad.com/green-u-s-transit-whopping-myth&quot;&gt;numbers for the USA&lt;/a&gt; but focusses entirely on energy per mile, not purchase cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy numbers are for embodied energy of materials, and those you'll probably find in the building industry rather than manufacturing. For instance, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sda-uk.org/materials/principles/embodied_energy.htm&quot;&gt;this overview&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greenspec.co.uk/embodied-energy.php&quot;&gt;this table&lt;/a&gt; and from &lt;a href=&quot;http://profile.iiita.ac.in/anil/Green%20Building%20Training%20Programme/Emb%20energy%20materials2.pdf&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; I grabbed the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Type of material Thermal energy (MJ/kg)&#xA;Cement 5.85&#xA;Lime 5.63&#xA;LP 2.33&#xA;Steel 42.0&#xA;Aluminium 236.8&#xA;Glass 25.8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Aluminium is the outlier - five times more energy than the next highest material. For carbon fibre, the only numbers I found are in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wagnerscft.com.au/documents/?5&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt; and are in the range 5-30MJ/kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is only a tiny part of the answer. The manufacturing energy for a bicycle is likely to be much higher than the embodied energy of the materials, and then you have the common scenario of a 10kg bicycle being shipped in a 5kg cardboard box with 1kg of plastic packaging material in it. I would be tempted to add those costs to whatever numbers I was using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, carbon/energy footprint is not the end of the argument. The toxic load of carbon fibre is quite high, which is a cost both to the people who work with it and the people who have the waste dumped on them. The elements used for alloying and doping can contribute more of the toxic load than the bulk materials, especially in a steel bike. Chrome and molybdynem, for example, are ugly things to work with but compared to the rare earth elements in a modern battery they are materials of rare beneficence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T00:51:38.937" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4694" CreationDate="2011-07-07T02:04:58.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is a shock seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T02:04:58.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2011-07-07T02:26:02.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nashbar, Performace Bike, and Campmore are good mail-order sources -- they carry expensive stuff, yes, but also some that's reasonably priced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from bike shops, some stores dealing in outdoor wear (eg, Cabela's) may be worth checking out for suitable stuff.  In particular, suitable socks and cold-weather wear may be found there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain old cotton T-shirts are good at sweat-wicking in warmer weather, though in cool or rainy weather they're less than ideal.  You can buy them by the bag full at Wally World or that fancy French place -- Target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For socks I only use ones made from Coolmax -- the fiber is excellent at sweat absorbing, doesn't get clammy, and provides a modicum of padding even when wet.  It's often hard to find exactly what I want (styles change rapidly, and the low-rise style I like is especially rare), but places like The Sock Company usually have a decent selection.  (It's also often hard to tell, on reading the internet description, how thick a sock is, etc, so I always order just one pair, and if I like them I re-order another 6-8.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T02:26:02.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4709" CreationDate="2011-07-07T08:12:01.820" Score="5" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it's mostly light here these days, and I don't want to leave my lights on my bike to disappear into someone else's schwag bag, I've been carrying my lights in my bag just in case, but not using them very often.  I've started to have problems with them turning on and draining the battery while they've been in my bag.  Do you have any ideas how I can prevent this type of problem?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main light that is causing me problems is a Topeak front light, but that's not the only light.  I also have small back lights and one of them has had the a similar problem.  In general these lights are great and this doesn't happen very often, but it's sufficient of a pain that I'd rather it never happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JoczR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-whitelite-ii-front-light/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-whitelite-ii-front-light/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-07T14:31:18.050" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T14:31:18.050" Title="How do you prevent your lights switching on in your bag?" Tags="&lt;led-lights&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2011-07-07T09:08:45.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could take the battery out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1689" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T09:08:45.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4715" CreationDate="2011-07-07T09:09:17.523" Score="1" ViewCount="8448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found an aluminum bike in the trash and it seems like it has been exposed to the rain, especially because some of the metal is slightly rusty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is a different thing, because altough it is made in aluminum, it has worm-like bright shapes, with a small relief (when I pass my fingers it isn't as smooth as the rest of the frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DKxNA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;is this aluminum rust?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this &quot;rust&quot;? (I know aluminum doesn't have corrosion like steel does, but this is IMO somekind of corrosion).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this a damaged in a point that it is dangerous to use it again?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can I solve it? (I tried sanding a small bit and it takes care of it, of course the shine is gone in those bits).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2017-06-20T12:28:08.220" Title="Is this aluminum &quot;rust&quot; in my frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;&lt;corrosion&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2011-07-07T09:22:50.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a box to put them in, remove the batteries or get something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The NiteRider UltraFazer 3.0 LED (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/niterider-ultrafazer-30-front-light&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;available at Wiggle&lt;/a&gt;) has the lock-out switch to prevent accidental turning ons. This is a relatively rare feature which is crazy given that lights are invariably carried in bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/csakM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although that is a new feature to the model. You can send them back for a refund if you get the old model with no quibbling needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should always carry two front (and rear) lights anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the back, the basic Cateye and Smart ones seem to survive the bag experience. This is because the switch is placed close to the bracket and is not what gets squashed first. Again, two rear lights, one mounted on your bag is a very good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cateye models deserve the IgNobel award for bike lights because you have to hold the switch down for an age of seconds for them to turn off, but for turning them on just a quick dab will do. Then you have to flick through a dozen flashing modes to get something sensible. They should have it the other way round - a three second push to turn them on, straight to the sensible flashing mode and a single push to turn them to full beam and another press to turn them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the UltraFazer is affordable lighting - not the brightest, but waterproof, good side-lighting and a sensible switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth checking at your preferred online retailer are the 'Exposure' range. These have the twist option rather than a switch to turn them on and off. These lights are also available in the better-appointed LBS and, given their price, you may want to look before you buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-07-07T10:13:02.837" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T10:13:02.837" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4708" CreationDate="2011-07-07T09:29:46.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is surface oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freshly polished aluminium loses its sheen almost instantly, most shiny aluminium products have a layer of lacquer to mitigate against that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scratches can appear worse than they are. You can leave it and the oxidised surface will not 'get any worse' or any deeper. There are no safety concerns here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for tidying up the appearance, you might want to look at what motorists do with their wheels. Aluminium wheels on cars oxidise really badly if they are neat 'alloy', hence all of them are painted to look like aluminium. Many concoctions are provided for the motorist wanting to tidy up the appearance of the wheels after they have scraped a kerb too many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to park so your frame does not get scratched, put end-caps on your cables and patches of tape where they rub the frame. In that way you should have a tidy frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now another option is to put a sticker on the frame over the offending area(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T09:29:46.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4708" CreationDate="2011-07-07T09:31:00.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears to be minor surface corrosion. From that picture, it could also simply be scratches, but I assume not if you can sand it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't (usually) structurally damaging or unsafe for use, unless it also gets much worse than you see there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polish it away with an aluminum polishing compound and a rag, if you want the best appearance after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise light sanding is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T09:31:00.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2011-07-07T09:38:20.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't put them in the bag. Ride with them, even though it is light out. There is no downside to having extra visibility on the road, and in many locations it is a legal requirement to have at least the red rear light if you are on publicly traveled roads. Where I live, the white front is also required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Decided this was worth an answer on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, as was pointed out to me, this only applies if you're riding the bike. Still need to remove them for anti-theft, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-07T12:34:38.787" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T12:34:38.787" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2011-07-07T10:03:27.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Join a cycling club. Most have sponsors and you'll get a full cycling costume (with advertisements) for free or almost free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently a member of 2 cycling clubs. My 2 summer &amp;amp; winter outfits (14 pieces of quality clothing total) costed me about € 250, and a some hours cycling with the club. One club will pay back € 100 as soon as I have completed 10 tours with them (so the cost will be reduced to € 150).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you get a lot of tips on bike stores and sales in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="444" LastEditDate="2011-07-08T08:30:30.573" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T08:30:30.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4706" CreationDate="2011-07-07T11:32:12.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On one set of lights, I rolled up some paper, and then fixed the paper roll round the switch.  This stop the switch being pressed by anything that was larger than the switch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My spare set of lights had some thin plastic sheet put at the end of the battery that I removed when I needed to use them.   However this is too much effort for lights that are used every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T11:32:12.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4708" CreationDate="2011-07-07T11:40:51.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, &quot;raw&quot; aluminum develops a layer of corrosion fairly rapidly.  Thankfully, unlike with iron/steel, the corrosion is &quot;tight&quot; and eventually develops to a thickness where additional corrosion is prevented (in normal circumstances).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corrosion can be prevented by either coating the aluminum with a lacquer-like coating or &quot;anodizing&quot; it.  Anodizing is a process where the aluminum is dipped in an electrolyte solution and a current is run through it, to develop a layer of &quot;super corrosion&quot; that is smooth and fairly hard/scratch resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing the bike was lacquered and the coating is breaking down.  Once one little spot of breakdown appears, the corrosion below will push up the adjacent areas, creating a growing spot that turns into the &quot;worms&quot; you see.  There is no structural problem as a result of this -- it's purely cosmetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to be concerned about would be if there were any spots (particularly around the joints) where a salt-like crust was forming.  This would indicate that the aluminum is &quot;crystalizing&quot; in the weld, and fractures, if not already present, are imminent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T11:40:51.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4682" CreationDate="2011-07-07T12:22:10.987" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Has anyone done a carbon audit for a bicycle yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to find one on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brompton.co.uk/page.asp?p=6436&quot;&gt;Brompton website&lt;/a&gt; - &quot;Manufacturing a Brompton bicycle creates &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brompton.co.uk/cc/index.asp&quot;&gt;113kg of carbon&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. I have been unable to find any figures from other manufacturers. The Brompton is a steel-framed folding bike, so that figure may not be particularly representative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so, are there any particularly low-carbon bikes out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebamboo.com/bamboo_eco.php&quot;&gt;Bike Bamboo&lt;/a&gt; make bike frames from bamboo and claim a &quot;Reduced Carbon Footprint&quot;, however they don't back this claim up with any specific figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T12:22:10.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4734" CreationDate="2011-07-07T13:21:01.270" Score="8" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK there are cycle paths laid down with proper tarmac just like the stuff they have on the roads. However, none of them that I have come across are level enough to afford a comfortable ride at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand why it has to be this way, it is not as if cycle paths get dug up every five minutes like the roads do, there are no 40 tonne HGV's to break up the surface and the machines used to lay the tarmac are just like the ones they use on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is unfortunate given that most bikes do not have suspension, whereas all cars do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What countries are there where they bother to lay cycle paths completely level? Why are the British ones never made nice and smooth? Do rough cycle paths discourage you from using them, in preference to staying on the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally 'cycle lanes', I mean't 'cycle paths' - routes that are not necessarily adjacent to the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-07-08T16:39:47.253" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T12:06:30.137" Title="Why do cycle paths always have to be bumpy?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;lanes&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4717" CreationDate="2011-07-07T13:30:59.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about British roads, but the American version of a tarmac road is laid in an arc, with the center of the road higher than the edge, for drainage purposes. The roads are often also banked as they travel corners, so the edge of the road is often higher or lower than the median.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, cycle paths are usually on the outside edge of the road, and that is the place where most of the changes for drainage and banking will affect the most, so it often feels as if the road is not smooth in the cycle path area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether we like it or not, the primary reason for the roads to be built is motor traffic, and that is what they are designed around. If the road was completely level, there would be far more accidents, and far less control possible in a car on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T13:30:59.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4732" CreationDate="2011-07-07T13:40:55.627" Score="-1" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently came across this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001GSMLXE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;product&lt;/a&gt;:, which is a stainless steel shield to place between your mountain cleats and your carbon soled shoes, to prevent damage to the carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen something similar for a road shoe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LMt1p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank Brothers Shoe Shields&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T13:20:23.393" Title="Is there a device for protecting your carbon-soled road shoes from the cleats?" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;damage&gt;&lt;protection&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4914" CreationDate="2011-07-07T13:53:43.463" Score="2" ViewCount="9403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering replacing my road shoes, finally, and I was looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.condorcycles.com/Shoes-Footwear/10428-Fizik-R1-Uomo-Road-Shoe/flypage.tpl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fi'zi:k R3 Uomo Carbon Road&lt;/a&gt;. I'm in Dubai. No one in my region carries them in stock, so there is little possibility of seeing them, or fitting them before I purchase, unless I wait another 6 months for our trip home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DigVj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;R1 Uomo Carbon&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware that purchasing them sight unseen is foolish, but I may do it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of you have experience with the shoe? Does it fit to a reasonable degree of accuracy with the Euro standard, so if I order my usual size they will likely fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about quality? I'm usually massively impressed with the quality of products that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fizik.com/shoes/collection.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fi'zi:k&lt;/a&gt; produces, but this is a new product for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Do the R1 and the R3 fit the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T12:58:06.857" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T00:40:12.643" Title="Experience with Fizik R3 Road shoes?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4717" CreationDate="2011-07-07T15:55:49.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vehicular traffic will tend to, on a reasonably sound road, smooth the surface (like a steam roller) and eliminate lots of the small bumps.  A bike lane, lacking such traffic, will develop bumps that do not get smoothed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus what zenbike said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T15:55:49.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4687" CreationDate="2011-07-07T17:08:15.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this site, they have detailed articles and photos of actual pro bikes. There are even a few bikes from this year's TDF already up there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T17:08:15.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4730" CreationDate="2011-07-07T17:36:05.237" Score="27" ViewCount="58019" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it only me, or do Carbon bikes make others nervous!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that carbon fibre is strong, but for some reason, having a bike that isn't made out of metal seems like asking for trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main reason for not liking it is the failure mode. Carbon won't bend like metal, but rather crack and snap in half. This makes me nervous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it this way. Over time a frame develops weaknesses. In a metal frame, these weaknesses would cause things to start bending. The bending would be noticeable and I would replace the part before it caused and accident.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However carbon doesn't bend, and it will eventually just break.  This would most likely cause an accident.  I don't want my front fork to just snap as I'm riding down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my concern warranted, or am I just unfamiliar with the technology?  How often should carbon parts be replaced?  What signs of wear should I look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-07-07T22:46:15.357" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T07:33:02.247" Title="Carbon bikes make me nervous. Can you ease the tension?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4717" CreationDate="2011-07-07T18:07:00.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess it depends on where you live.  Where I live (Ottawa Canada) the bike lanes aren't usually any worse than the road they are on.  The major problem for me seems to be sewer grates which often have broken pavement around them due to freezing in the winter.  However some roads are very good.  I often go 40 KM/H on my route to work, as some of the roads I travel on are in very good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T18:07:00.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2011-07-07T18:35:43.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://s.dealextreme.com/search/Bike+Riding+Suit?utm_source=dx&amp;amp;utm_medium=albums&amp;amp;utm_content=suit&amp;amp;utm_campaign=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Deal Extreme&lt;/a&gt; has a large selection of bicycle clothing.  I haven't bought any myself, but I am seriously considering it given the low price.  The reviews on the items seem to be quite favorable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T18:35:43.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4188" CreationDate="2011-07-07T19:17:13.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crank removal tool has two threaded pieces. The larger threads into the crank (after you've removed the crank-bolt with a wrench).  Tighten it all the way down, as these threads will take all of the force that is required to remove the crank.  The smaller threaded piece screws into the larger.  It has a flat end on it which goes into the crank.  Turn this until this flat end makes contact with the end of the bottom bracket spline (the bit that you removed the crank-bolt from).  Then keep tightening it.  The flat end will push on the spline and pull the crank off--remember that this piece is threaded to another piece that is threaded to the crank itself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an excellent example of a simple machine--the jackscrew. I'm sure that Sheldon Brown has a great description with photos, line drawings, etc... @gcb provides the link.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T19:17:13.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4717" CreationDate="2011-07-07T19:42:47.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nice folks who maintain the cycle lanes around here are from either city streets or highway departments. Both of these agencies are focused on improving motor vehicle traffic flow. Bicycle infrastructure construction and maintenance is, for them, an ancillary acitivty. Generally speaking, many bicycle lanes are merely gutters with some paint stenciled on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gutters, drains, and the shoulders of the road are generally not attended to in the way that the road pavement is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pavement quality tends to be better on bicycle routes that are maintained by park districts or by cities that have a clearly-defined policy of promoting the bicycle for everyday transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T19:42:47.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4724" CreationDate="2011-07-07T19:49:51.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding, carbon fiber is extremely strong within its designed load parameters.  That means the directionality of the load, the amount of load, etc.  It is only when one goes outside this load design that you start to see failures (other than manufacturing flaws, but that could happen on any bike).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, clamping a carbon fiber handlebar using a stem designed for steel/aluminum.  The style of clamp is wrong, and can lead to crushing the bar at the clamp.  Same applies for almost all clamping surfaces.  Most components are not designed to be clamped down on unevenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the frame and fork, as long as you don't run into a wall, for example, you are probably going to be fine.  Doing so would put stress on the fork in the wrong way, plus try to pull the head tube away from the top tube, a stress it is not intended to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to fully disclose:  I weigh 375lbs.  Carbon fiber bicycles are NOT designed for my weight, and quite frankly that scares the crap out of me.  As a result, I ride Surly bikes.  Chromoly Steel with high spoke-count wheels to feel safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-08T04:34:29.120" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T04:34:29.120" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4724" CreationDate="2011-07-07T20:29:19.243" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watch the Tour de France...you'd be hard pressed to find a bike that is not carbon. Yes pros do get multiple steeds, but remember riding is their full time job. When was the last time one of us put 30-50 hours on a bike in a given week, never mind for 6-8 months! Now think about the wattage these guys put out and hopefully you are getting the idea...that carbon is a proven material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do failures happen? Yes, but the frequency is so minimal and when it does occur it is not the instantaneous snap in half you fear. Furthermore, no multi-million dollar corporation would be able to mass produce a product that posed as serious of risk as you suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as carbon forks go, I use them on the road, as well as, cross and have never had a failure. Their ability to absorb vibration is unparalleled and I honestly cannot imagine riding a bike without one. I have a stable of bikes and all have carbon except one and that one has a suspension fork. My 29er MTB has a rigid carbon fork that replaced a ti rigid a couple years ago!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now having said that, I have been riding carbon frames on the road for 5 years and the benefits are unbelievable. I used to have a carbon mountain bike and it was phenomenal. Carbon is not the end all and be all. There are other materials that ride extremely well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T20:29:19.243" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4724" CreationDate="2011-07-07T22:20:28.383" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber is stronger, and far less susceptible to fatigue than any other frame material on the market. It can be engineered to have the strength of titanium, the ride quality of steel, and the stiff and powerful performance of aluminum at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only broken 2 frames in my life. Both were aluminum, ridden far beyond the fatigue life of the metal. I have seen carbon break, but usually it is in a major accident. A car crash or something similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a carbon frame cracks from fatigue, it shows small crack in the paint, then splintering, and then it will look like crushed bamboo when it fails fully. The frame will last longer, and you will have more warning of failure on carbon than any other material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why you should choose it, it makes your ride more comfortable, more stable, and more pleasant. It's also lighter, but that is at best a secondary reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-07T22:20:28.383" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4720" CreationDate="2011-07-08T01:30:35.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=52772&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these stickers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know most road cleats are plastic cleats and are not going to do significant damage to the shoe (being plastic and large rather than metal and small) so no protection is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There are some road cleats which are metal, as described in comments.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-09T06:10:19.757" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T06:10:19.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3390" CreationDate="2011-07-08T05:57:44.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a infant-carrier conversion that also will work as a grocery getter. I found a plastic Sterilite bin that fit inside the trailer (just brushes the front and rear bar, about 1-2&quot; from the sides). I cut the bin down to 6&quot; tall, and drilled holes on each side for industrial strength zip ties, to connect to the frame tubes. The sterilite bin sits on the fabric bottom, but is suspended by the cable ties on 4 sides, in 2 places for each side. A used carseat for infants is ziptied to the sterilite bin. If I remove the baby seat, it serves as a cargo trailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfBli.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the plastic bin. (The fabric is removed for illustration)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-08T19:25:03.177" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T19:25:03.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4717" CreationDate="2011-07-08T08:36:22.867" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is an issue of foundation mostly. Because roads get very heavy (as in weight) traffic roadbuilders spend a lot of time on the groundwork, compacting, digging away soft and unstable earth or sand layers and replacing them with gravel or other heavy rocky debris before the tarmac is laid down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because a bicycle path only sees light bicycles less time has to be spent stabilizing the base before the tarmac can be placed. Unfortunately this means there is less of a hard pack underneath the pavement to keep roots away, and there is not as much heavy rocks and other stuff underneath the pavement stabilizing inevitable small shifts in the ground. So bicycle paths shift a bit more, and they are more vulnerable to getting pushed up by roots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it comes down to -I think- is money. Building a solid foundation takes time and materials, and hence money. For a bicycle, anything paved is better than what was there before (nothing or running the gauntlet on the open road) so I assume municipalities choose to get the bicycle paths out there fast and cheap rather than roll them out slow but more expensive. Spending a lot of money on car-load resistant bicycle paths also just doesn't make economic sense for most municipalities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news: Here in the Netherlands a lot of municipalities have realized over the years that the cheap bicycle paths cost a lot more in maintenance and repairs, so the quality is steadily improving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T08:36:22.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2011-07-08T14:58:12.273" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how I deal with the three main threats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the bike from being stolen with a small, chunky u-lock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the components from being removed with security skewers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the structure you're locking to can't be dismantled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;U-lock&lt;/strong&gt;: I use the Kryptonite Fagheddaboudit lock, which maybe a bit of overkill in retrospect since it's quite heavy for a u-lock. Small locks prevent thieves from fitting prying jacks inside the U.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Security skewers&lt;/strong&gt;: These replace your quick-release skewers. They can only be unscrewed with a custom key that comes with them. Each key is different, so these are much better than simply using allen key skewers. They're pricey (~$80 for the two wheels, headset, and seat), but unlike a cable lock, they secure not just your wheels, but your front fork and seat as well. They also weigh nothing, require no cable-wrangling each time you park, and can't be clipped. I've found them to be well worth it. I use Pinhead skewers: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinheadlocks.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.pinheadlocks.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Verify what you're locking to&lt;/strong&gt;: I know a guy who avoided bike theft in NYC for years using the above two tools, but who was finally undone when he locked his bike to a workers' scaffolding at a construction site. The thief simply removed the cross-bar that he had locked to, and made off with the bike. Another common honeytrap are those removable stop signs (the kind where the post is attached to a post stub in the ground, using a unscrewable bolt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="910" LastEditorUserId="910" LastEditDate="2011-07-08T15:43:30.190" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T15:43:30.190" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-08T14:58:12.273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-08T15:46:38.250" Score="14" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy going up hills by bike and only the steepest Alps make me think &lt;em&gt;'what am I doing!!!'&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some of my friends have a tendency to say things like &lt;em&gt;We're not going all the way up there, are we!?!'&lt;/em&gt; Just the sight of tarmac looming upwards can make them want to instantly dismount or take a longer, flatter route, or go back home, or phone mummy, or find a pub or something else defeatist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There also seems to be a common fixation on the top, which I don't understand. To me the top is not really of consequence (unless it is a famous mountain pass that I have not been to before).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to encourage others to get to the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: We are talking hills here, nothing particularly steep, nothing in extreme weather, perfectly averagely paved surface with light traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-08T17:41:35.047" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T00:04:56.700" Title="How do I help the less experienced cyclist cope with a hill climb?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4736" CreationDate="2011-07-08T17:00:41.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must understand that if your friends aren't as much as a keen cyclist as you are they won't get the same level enjoyment as you do. If that's not the case, set goals and give them something to look forward to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T17:00:41.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4736" CreationDate="2011-07-08T17:15:45.923" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, the same kind of advice you give to any cyclist will suffice here. Encourage them to take it easy at first, to give them the opportunity to experience cycling--and specifically climbing--in a supportive, non-threatening environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pick a good route&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What hills and roads you pick will have an effect on how the newbie cyclist perceives the ride. Lots of traffic, or many wall-like steep hills, or narrow shoulders--these will all discourage the new riders. Find a route that builds up to steeper hills gradually, with wide, well-maintained shoulders. Perhaps even take it off-road at first. You want to avoid roads like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/4151455179/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;IMG_2142.JPG by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2590/4151455179_3382426e2e_z.jpg&quot; width=&quot;640&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; alt=&quot;IMG_2142.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...rather, look for roads with wide shoulders or even bike lanes (they tend to calm cyclists, perhaps with a false sense of safety, but they'll let your friends concentrate more on the cycling and less on the traffic.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/4500739661/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;IMG_2595 by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4500739661_e1f0bb4d30_z.jpg&quot; width=&quot;640&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; alt=&quot;IMG_2595&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This was at the top of a long hill, if that's not apparent.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/4151462847/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;IMG_2181.JPG by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2744/4151462847_4a489992b8_z.jpg&quot; width=&quot;640&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; alt=&quot;IMG_2181.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This hill was tough, but the lanes were wide enough for passing.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to use your gears&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a strange perception that you have to &quot;tough it out&quot; to get to the top of a hill, that spinning up a hill in a very low gear is somehow demeaning. Make it clear that it's not only okay to go to the lowest gear available, it's what many cyclists do. Explain that a little bit of planning ahead when they see the hill approaching will put them in the right gear before they need it. Building up speed on the previous downhill (if there is one) will also help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wait it out&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that will help is patience. If they have to walk a few hills, be supportive. Wait for them at the top, or perhaps at the next turnoff on the route. Over time, this will change. Consider walking up the hills with them. (Walking a bike up a steep hill is good exercise, particularly a heavier bike!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever your friends achieved that day, let them know it! This may go without saying, but tell them what they did well, and how they could have more fun next time. If, in the end, they decide hills aren't for them, then avoid them on your next ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All hills look steeper when viewed from a distance. You might suggest that they keep telling themselves that! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.673" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T05:37:10.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4736" CreationDate="2011-07-08T17:44:38.150" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many variables here.  Strength and endurance varies widely between riders, and the situation gets even more complicated if heat is at all a factor.  And many riders may be on bikes that lack a decent granny range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less experienced riders will have difficulty holding the bike steady on a hill, even if they have the strength to easily manage the hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to tell your companions is that, for most hills, with an adequately geared bike, it's simply a matter of persistence -- gear down and spin, at whatever rate of effort suits you.  Set a &quot;good&quot; example for them by spinning up the hill yourself, rather than charging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also teach your companions a few hill maneuvers, such as how to turn sideways (on a lightly-traveled road) to safely come to a stop.  On a curving hill (again on a lightly traveled road or one with good shoulders) one may want to move to the outside of the curve (even if it's the &quot;wrong&quot; side of the road), both because the slope is less there and because it better positions you to turn downhill in case you need to stop (since the outside of the curve is banked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, of course, explain to them how on a hill it's more important than usual to &quot;claim your lane&quot;, since you'll tend to be a bit wobblier and you want to discourage motorists from trying to &quot;sneak past&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But mostly you just need to give your companions a chance to develop as riders -- baby steps, not forcing them to climb Col du Galibier on their first ride.  If you're picking the routes avoid hills that you would consider &quot;average&quot; and stick with &quot;easy&quot; for awhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T17:44:38.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4743" CreationDate="2011-07-08T20:29:38.920" Score="14" ViewCount="3185" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I took a hit from behind. Fortunately it was just my friend's bike rather than one of those large-boxes-for-one-person. I was partly to blame because I failed to indicate that we were slowing down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(However, as I understand the Highway Code, if you run into something that has the right to be in your right of way then you are to blame, so the incident wasn't really my fault but my friend's.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally I rely on road-positioning to signal my intention, but I do stick my arms out for left and right if the situation deserves it. What other signals are there that I can use to show that I am slowing down, that there are hazards to avoid, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any conventions, either in the Highway Code, as used in the peloton or in other cycling clubs that I could benefit from adopting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also interested in best practice for signals that I can use with other road users, e.g. to let someone in a large-box-for-one-person know that I understand that it is their right of way - the equivalent of a flash of the headlights as it were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally refrain from using single-finger gestures and banging on the tops of tin-boxes, however, it would be good to know what I can use to show my disgust/outrage in a way that is 'fair'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no online references, here would be as good a place as any to establish a list of 'to be universally understood' gestures and signals that can be used by cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T03:49:47.973" Title="What hand signals are there for communicating with others when cycling in a group?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4740" CreationDate="2011-07-08T20:57:38.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Experienced riders hold their hand behind their back to indicate that they will be slowing down or stopping. Saying &quot;slowing&quot; or &quot;stopping&quot; is also used as a secondary indicator, especially if you have to react quickly and can't afford to take a hand off the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For road debris or obstacles, you should hold your arm out to the side and point down at the road to where the debris will be relative to your bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T20:57:38.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4717" CreationDate="2011-07-09T00:32:59.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, I'm going to guess that it's roots, getting under the paths: because the cycle paths have (compared with roads) less foundation, are dug less deep, are narrower, and have no paved verges (e.g. &quot;side-walks&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T00:32:59.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4740" CreationDate="2011-07-09T01:58:37.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, what Stephen says is about all I know (though I don't run with the racing crowd).  Pointing at road debris is commonly done, but probably useless, since it doesn't allow time to react -- I prefer to just yell &quot;Trash!&quot;, especially now that I have a bad arm and the signaling is more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the hand signal (left arm (US) extended with elbow bent downward at about a 45 degree angle and with open palm facing backwards) for slowing is a bit more useful than pointing at road debris, but shouting &quot;Slowing!&quot; or &quot;Stopping!&quot; is still a better signal -- easier to accomplish, and more likely to get the attention of the rider behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, there's the shouted &quot;Car back!&quot; signal given from the rear (no possible hand signal here) when a vehicle is overtaking a group of bikes, and &quot;On your left/right!&quot; shouted when overtaking another bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm sure that some cycling groups have additional agreed-upon signals, but I don't know of any others that would be generally recognized in the US.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For motorists, I use the basic hand signals -- left arm extended for left turn, right arm extended for right turn.  I occasionally use the &quot;slow&quot; signal (described above) when needed to signal that a motorist needs to use caution (because, eg, of cyclists ahead that he may not be able to see), and I've used it once or twice when occupying a full lane to signal that I'm going to retain occupancy (such as when negotiating a single-lane bypass through a construction site).  I also sometimes use the left (US) hand extended, palm down, with a repeated downward motion to signal &quot;slow down&quot;, when there are cyclists or some other hazard ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When following others at all closely, cyclists need to learn to watch the feet, rear derailer, and rear brake caliper of the cyclist ahead.  These signal speed changes, and careful observation will clue in the cyclist behind even when the cyclist ahead fails to somehow explicitly signal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T01:58:37.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4717" CreationDate="2011-07-09T04:13:03.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ah! Paths, not lanes! Ok so that's a different matter... Short answer, bike paths &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; have to be bumpy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Portland, Oregon the bike paths are generally not bumpy. The city currently has around 76 miles of separate bike paths and in the entire metro area, bike paths are up to 235 miles (but not all are paved). (Not including lanes, bike boulevards, or cycle tracks.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, during the past 2 years I've been over nearly the entire Portland metro network, and very little of the bike path network is &quot;bumpy&quot;. The few bumpy sections seem to be bumpy due to either age, erosion, or root growth. And additionally, the bumpy areas tend to be in low usage areas of the path network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Portland leans very liberal/progressive, both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.portlandonline.com/transportation/index.cfm?c=34772&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the city government&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oregonmetro.gov/index.cfm/go/by.web/id=10799&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the metro area&lt;/a&gt; promote cycling and we're fortunate to have a politically active cycling community. (One advocacy group is the &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bta4bikes.org/at_work/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Transportation Alliance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; whose mission is to create healthy, sustainable communities by making bicycling safe, convenient and accessible.) As a result, the cycling infrastructure is very good and continues to get better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, in Portland we have quality bicycle paths (and other cycling infrastructure) because the community demands them. If one lives in an area with a poor cycling infrastructure, I would recommend grassroots organizing and demand a better system from your local politicians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for fun and to demonstrate a dynamic cycling community, here's a link to the &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeportland.org/2011/06/19/world-naked-bike-ride-how-was-it-for-you-55083&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World Naked Ride&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; that took place on June 18th. &lt;em&gt;Caution, there is nudity...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-07-09T04:50:14.350" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T04:50:14.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4740" CreationDate="2011-07-09T06:55:13.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a diagram of commonly used universal hand signals for Slow/stop, and right turn/left turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UjKjU.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Hand signals GIF&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest we make this a Community Wiki question, and use as a reference page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T06:55:13.743" CommentCount="10" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-09T06:55:13.743" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4740" CreationDate="2011-07-09T09:59:33.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/desktopdefault.aspx?tabid=3587&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cycle&lt;/em&gt;, the CTC magazine&lt;/a&gt;, had a panel 'Sign language for cyclists' (as well as another on warning shouts) in the article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/resources/Magazine/201103034.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;'Group Dynamics'&lt;/a&gt; on pages 34&amp;ndash;37 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=5482#FM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;February/March 2011 issue&lt;/a&gt;. Unfortunately it's only accessible to subscribers though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastEditorUserId="699" LastEditDate="2011-07-09T10:04:43.873" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T10:04:43.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-09T12:59:04.337" Score="10" ViewCount="2175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've watched the Tour de France for the last few years, and I'm beginning to think I understand the basics of the tactics and strategy. But one question has just struck me: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why don't team breakaways happen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The teams have radios so such a move could be planned and coordinated without the knowledge of the rest of the peleton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see that it would be hard to prevent one or two freeloading non-team members tagging along, and that if such riders are sprinters they could well win the stage. But if your team is more interested in the general classification that wouldn't be a big issue surely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Postscript: As such things don't happen I'm assuming there is a good reason why they don't happen. I'm not claiming to know better than the team managers! I'm just after a good explanation of why.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T22:51:54.110" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T22:51:54.110" Title="Why are there no team breakaways in road racing?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4747" CreationDate="2011-07-09T14:40:57.730" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a breakaway could be organized by a team, the peloton would not allow it to succeed. The mechanics of 8 or 9 riders, even excellent riders working together, are such that the maximum sustainable speeds would not be high enough to stay away from the peloton for long enough to matter, and every other team would develop a vested interest in ensuring that the breakaway was caught. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The GC advantage of a team that succeeded in such a maneuver would be all but impossible for other teams to recover from, so any every other team would work together to make sure it didn't succeed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breakaways are often allowed by the teams in the peloton as it gives the GC teams a lever to play rivals against. Which team will have to expend the energy and manpower to reel in the break? How is that going to affect their chances tomorrow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to add... An entire team breakaway would be a waste of &quot;specialists&quot; energy. For example, a entire team breakaway to win a single stage, could ruin a climber's chances in a mountain stage the next day. &lt;strong&gt;– Courtesy of *&lt;em&gt;wdypdx22&lt;/em&gt;*&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-10T09:11:02.373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T09:11:02.373" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4747" CreationDate="2011-07-09T15:57:59.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why don't team breakaways happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it is conceivable that a team could do this on a &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;single&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; stage. However, since the race has 21 stages, it would be an enormous waste of talent and energy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every team has specialists: climbers, time trialists, sprinters, etc. Basically, when these guys are in the peloton, they are conserving energy for a later stage, for a sprint, or climb, etc. So, if the entire team made a breakaway, it could very easily sap the energy reserves for a later energy expenditure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example... A team breakaway in the mountains would probably mean that the sprinters would be left behind with their energy sapped for an upcoming sprint. Or, a team breakaway on the flats, would mean that a climber would be out of condition for the mountains on the next day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could pontificate more, but gotta go....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Back now and some more on the idea of &quot;team breakaways&quot;...&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, my example of a breakaway on the flats was a bad one. Breakaways are very rare on flat stages. Why? Because it's extremely difficult for individuals or small groups to get away from the peloton since there are no big hills to slow it down. However, teams will often work to stay at the front of the peloton so that their sprinter(s) are in good position for a final sprint to the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breakaways &lt;em&gt;are common&lt;/em&gt; on hilly and mountainous stages because hilly/mountainous terrain will filter out non-climbers and weaker riders. A breakaway will be either an individual or a small group of riders, and not, an entire team. Why not an entire team? One is that all members of a team are simply not capable of fending off a chasing peloton for any sustained period of time. For example, a sprinter is rarely if ever, a climber, so you really don't want that rider out in a breakaway. Another reason is strategy. With say a climber and a domestique out in a breakaway, the rest of the team can be back in the peloton manipulating the pace so that the breakaway has a greater chance of success. So, the &quot;team&quot; doesn't breakaway because other strategies are more effective. Another thing to consider is the prize structure of the race. The team classification is calculated by adding the times of &lt;em&gt;the three best riders of each team&lt;/em&gt; per stage. So, even if a team was out to win this classification, there would be no point in sending the entire team out on a breakaway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, there could be a good reason for a &quot;team breakaway&quot; in a stage race, but I haven't thought of one yet and have not seen one in the real world. ;~)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-07-11T18:10:13.397" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T18:10:13.397" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-09T15:59:36.273" Score="18" ViewCount="137132" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's getting hard to find any selection for my old Avanti 12 speed. it currently uses 27 x 1.25 inch tires. Can I put 700c tires without needing to buy new rims? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1790" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-07-16T22:44:38.690" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T02:20:35.767" Title="Can I put 700c tires on rims made for 27 x 1.25&quot;?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4750" CreationDate="2011-07-09T16:28:22.050" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;No!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried this when I was knee-high to a grasshopper and it so-did-not-work! I actually managed to get a Michelin Select 700 x 28c tyre on the 27&quot; wheel but the inner-tube was so pinched and pierced that no amount of that gunk you can spray into tubes could save it. I did get the size wrong but after many hours of struggle 'hoped' to get a low-profile tyre on my front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bead diameter of the 27 inch wheel is 630 mm, the bead diameter of a 700c is 622 mm (I properly learned those measurements that day). 8mm is a big difference, believe me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your LBS does stock 27&quot; tyres, do not part with your cash until you have read 630 on the sidewall. If they do not stock them, ask them to get them in. This will save you the postage of mail order. Their suppliers will carry them and they should be able to get them in for next week if you ask nicely and put down a deposit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are specifications for wheel sizes and tyre sizes - ETRTO. Schwalbe have a good intro and list of sizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/size_markings&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/size_markings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 27&quot; size for your bike will be 630, 609 is the size for older bikes with 'rod' brakes and no sidewalls to the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal 700c inner tubes will go in a 27&quot; wheel with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T16:28:22.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4750" CreationDate="2011-07-09T16:57:11.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, a 28&quot; tire is 700c generally, but a 27&quot; tire will not fit. Tubes, on the other hand, will work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T16:57:11.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4754" CreationDate="2011-07-09T18:17:25.687" Score="4" ViewCount="17452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a department store bike with a twist grip shifter (3 chain rings, friction shift and 6 sprockets, index shift - Torque Drive One derailleur) and I want to replace it. I am not able to get sufficient advice on bicycle forums because it is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/887#887&quot;&gt;Bicycle Shaped Object&lt;/a&gt; apparently and not worth any money on fixing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my reasons, and basically I am looking at something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.to/papmPF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://amzn.to/papmPF&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.to/osZcI0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://amzn.to/osZcI0&lt;/a&gt; .. Is it possible to replace my current twist grip shifters with this? Is it a difficult process? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I particularly want a friction shifter, so is this possible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1788" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T21:57:15.940" Title="Replacing grip shift shifters on department store bike with thumb friction shifters?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4753" CreationDate="2011-07-09T18:25:42.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it, on donated bikes we were rehabbing for Christmas Anonymous.  (Those twist grip shifters seem to fail pretty quickly.)  Don't recall any special problems, other than you have to refigure the cable routing, and you may need a different length cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T18:25:42.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4753" CreationDate="2011-07-09T21:57:15.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is something to know about thumb-shifters: ergonomics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better thumbshifters placed the pivot forward of the handlebar, the more affordable ones did not have this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a pair of Suntour classics from back in the day:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LaOYD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See how the forward placing of the pivot works to place the thumb-shift lever where you need it for the thumb. The other variety lack this subtle detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some retro Shimano classics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ikDJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These beauties have the option to switch between index and non-index. They are made of top-quality forged alloy parts with no stamped-out tin in sight. The adjusters are particularly satisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A set of these picked up from e-Bay will grace your BSO and make it have a touch of class as well as be more ergonomic. Both the Shimano and Suntour classics were exceptionally well engineered, for my money I would prefer the lever shape of the Suntour models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I introduced 'BSO' to this Q+A site, it is a good-humoured thing. I don't mind BSO's that get actually ridden, however, most of them get land-filled to the detriment of the LBS (Local Bike Shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment I am considering getting a Kona Africabike3 - a deluxe BSO. I am also considering getting an actual BSO, however I would have to upgrade the tyres before I took it anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T21:57:15.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4758" CreationDate="2011-07-09T23:27:23.587" Score="4" ViewCount="2445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cycle to work three times a week over a distance of 13 miles in both directions. I do approximately 20mph most of the way there and back and I am looking for ways to speed up the commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having read around the material online, it seems a decent set of wheels give the best performance increase per pound spent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is what wheelset should I invest in? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get models that claim to be Aero that range from a hundred pounds up to the low thousands. What would you recommend for a commuter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related but more searching question: would I even notice the difference at my level of performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T06:09:29.457" Title="Best value for money on aero wheels" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4756" CreationDate="2011-07-10T00:43:24.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over a 40-minute ride, you may not notice much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/aero/aerodynamics.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;older reference&lt;/a&gt; compares a then-standard 32-spoke 27&quot; wheel to an aero rim with 28 bladed spokes, a high-end hub and an extra-lightweight tire. The estimated improvement over a one-hour time trial at 23mph was 44 seconds - an impressive improvement for racing, but not particularly meaningful for a commute. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rolfprima.com/techinfo_aero_results.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A more recent comparison by Rolf&lt;/a&gt; to the aerodynamic Mavic Ksyrium claims that their $2500 TT85 full-carbon disc wheelset saves 1 minute, 49 seconds over 40km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T00:43:24.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4756" CreationDate="2011-07-10T06:09:29.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're asking two questions here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As answered above, aero wheels aren't likely to improve your speed enough to be worth the investment, unless you also use the bike for club racing, triathlons, or the like.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Good wheels come in 2 categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aero: An aero wheel's main benefit is in improving the shape of the foil around your  bike. Good aero wheels save approximate 30 seconds to one minute off of a ride, if you are above 22mph. Examples include Zipp 404/808/1080 series wheels. The Xentis Squad 5.8 carbon clincher wheels are among the lightest, strongest, and most aero wheels, with the additional benefit that the braking surface is designed for a standard rubber brake pad, so no buying special carbon rubber compound or cork pads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Light: If your purpose is to get your speed up, depending on the conditions of your commute, you may be better served to do a light weight climbing oriented wheel. The reason that wheels are considered your best upgrade to just about any bike, is because losing a pound at the rim of your wheel has a similar effect to losing a much greater weight at the core of the bike. Put a weight on the end of a pole, and try to pick it up. Then drop the pole, and go pick it up directly. It will be much heavier at the end of a lever, and the longer the lever, the heavier it gets. Your wheels are weight that must be moved at the end of a 190mm lever, and maintained at speed there. At the least, a lighter wheel will make your bike feel and respond faster, and more nimbly. Even if you don't gain significant speed, in this way there are other benefits. Here also I recommend the Xentis Squad 2.5. A low profile carbon climbing wheel, light strong and fast. May or may not be available in the US, however.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is a trade off for the everyday user between height of the sidewall for aero effect, and the side wind profile for handling and stability. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, good wheels aren't cheap, and you should be prepared to spend in some cases as much as the bike cost originally. They are an upgrade that can and will outlast several bikes. My current wheels have been on 4 different road bikes, so don't consider them an add-on to the value of the bike. And don't get rid of the original wheels, you may need them when it's time to upgrade the other half of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just my 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T06:09:29.457" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4747" CreationDate="2011-07-10T07:51:41.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons for breakaways but, counter-intuitively, they are rarely because of a desire to win the overall. You will almost never see one of the major contenders for the overall (GC) title in a breakaway - because they know that if they did join a breakaway, that every team with GC aspirations would co-operate to hunt them down, which would also means that the other members of the breakaway would be unlikely to help them as much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally breakaways are as much to get some limelight for the team, their sponsors or the individual and conducted by people who are less likely to win a stage 'normally', i.e. not being a sprinter, climber or time-triallist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The peloton can generally travel faster than a small group, there are exceptions to this, but you'll often see that moment in a stage where a breakaway that has had a good solid lead suddenly start to lose it; that moment when the peloton decides that enough is enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a well drilled team can't keep the peloton at bay (and certainly not day after day) - team time trials are rarely more than 60 minutes (this year's a lot less than that) not the 100+ miles of the average stage - if the peloton decides to work together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You even saw this in stage 7 where the peloton split into two relatively equal parts and the part behind really struggled to keep up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T07:51:41.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2011-07-10T14:31:00.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Shimano hub dynamo bearings on one side probably not so difficult and you can look at their drawing but on the other side it can be difficult. I haven't tried to open the other side but you can check this out: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-700163.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-700163.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1793" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T14:31:00.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4763" CreationDate="2011-07-10T17:24:03.273" Score="35" ViewCount="5763" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides locking a bike up properly, are there other deterrents against theft (such as engraving) that make a bicycle less attractive to a potential bike thief? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was stolen.  :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1713" LastEditorUserId="1713" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T20:33:26.210" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T00:55:00.420" Title="Theft deterrents (in addition to locking up a bike)" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2011-07-10T17:58:57.393" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to locking your bike securely with a good lock, there are several strategies you can use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Location&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you lock up can be nearly as important as how well you're locked up. If you're in a public, well-lit area, a thief might think twice about stealing a bike. A rack in an isolated, dark area may look more attractive to steal -- there aren't as many potential witnesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Beater bikes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While some may not have a choice in this matter, if you know you'll have to lock up in a sketchy neighborhood fairly often, you might consider getting a cheap, used mountain bike if possible. Save the flashy carbon expensive-looking bike for club rides and longer road rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Take the bike with you&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be situations where you don't have to lock the bike up. Many supermarkets and big box stores will let you take the bike with you, if the aisles are roomy. Take care to stay out of the way of other customers. If asked to take the bike outside, you can either comply with the request or take your business elsewhere, but be nice about it either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Folding bikes are great for this, especially when you can fit the bike into a shopping cart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Uglify your bike&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard it said that you just need to lock up your bike better than the next bike in the rack. That may or may not be true, but consider making your bike uglier than the bike next to it. A terrible rattle-can paint job (i.e., spray painted) will make a nice bike look like a jalopy of a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also approximate this by putting a plastic grocery bag over the saddle, using ugly/old bar tape, fenders that are scratched up, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8664/reduce-resale-value-to-avoid-theft-uglify&quot;&gt;Reduce Resale Value to Avoid Theft?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Quick-releases&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels and saddles with quick-release hardware are a target for thieves. Much of this can be combatted by locking them up properly (feed a cable through the saddle rails or the spokes of the wheels), but consider replacing these with hardware that needs a tool to open. Maintenance will take longer, but locking up (and unlocking) will be quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T19:31:30.170" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2011-07-10T18:19:05.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The largest deterrent to theft is to make sure your bike is in your line of sight. There are a large number of registries which cater to the idea of a permanent and visible mark on the frame that is registered with an independent 3rd party, such as a police department.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real issue with those is that so few bikes actually get registered that most police departments don't bother to check for barcodes or RFID tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engraving your name on the frame in a visible spot might help, actually, but there's no way to guarantee that anyone will ever look at it, or contact you if they do recover your bike. I like to include info that is usable for contact, but easy to maintain for a long period of time. A free, web-based email address engraved on the bottom bracket works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, don't leave the bike alone...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="4796" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T13:22:36.657" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T13:22:36.657" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4769" CreationDate="2011-07-10T21:45:05.360" Score="2" ViewCount="29084" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain on my girlfriend's bike came off the front gear today, it looks like the back gear changing mechanism isn't handling back-pedaling properly, whenever she pedals backwards the chain slacks rather than feeding through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain doesn't seem to be taut enough and has at one point gone round the front gear and caught in the front gear changing mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what might be wrong? I'm sorry if I've got my terminology completely wrong here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 21 speed mountain bike if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I've looked up the terminology now and it seems like there might be a problem with the rear derailer? It doesn't seem to be keeping the chain taut at the top and is just getting pulled almost to its limit towards the front of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-02T04:04:37.343" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T00:23:42.113" Title="How to fix problem with mountain bike chain falling off gears?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4770" CreationDate="2011-07-10T21:45:14.720" Score="5" ViewCount="5797" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed some strange damage on my rear tire, where there appear to be diagonally cuts going around the entire wheel.  I have no idea what might have caused this damage.  I first saw it a few months ago, but didn't think anything of it because I had just replaced my tires with these relatively fancy Panaracer kevlar tires so I figured they should hold up for at least a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, just a few days ago I felt my rear tire bumping and when I looked at it, I could see the tube is starting to bulge out slightly through the cracks in the tire sidewall.  The front tire is completely fine, but it's starting to look like I have to replace the back tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are, has anybody else dealt with this issue before?  Any ideas what might have caused this damage?  Am I indeed correct that the tire needs to be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first picture has the most severe scarring, the second picture shows how it extends around the entire wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UNjwi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tire scarring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j64fI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;more damage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1796" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T17:45:06.843" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T09:35:22.637" Title="What caused diagonal cuts in the sidewalls of my tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4766" CreationDate="2011-07-10T22:49:12.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, you're right about replacing the tire--if you have any cracks in the sidewall and/or a bulging tube, a tire MUST be replaced. Judging by those pictures, I would replace the tire immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the tire, and what you're doing with it, a year may or may not be an unreasonable length of time for a tire to wear out. Others with more experience will probably have something to say on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1607" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T22:49:12.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4773" CreationDate="2011-07-10T23:56:26.357" Score="8" ViewCount="24620" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;Add a 4.5 mm spacer before installing a 7-speed cassette on an 8-, 9-, or 10-speed hub&quot;, but doesn't seem to show spacer placement in any picture.  My direct experience is that the spacer &lt;em&gt;below&lt;/em&gt; the cassette put the smallest gear so high that it didn't engage the hub splines.  So which is right, spacer below or above the cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 20 y.o. MTB triple with 7-cog cassette, and I recently needed the rear wheel replaced (warped and cracked).  Took it to LBS, they only had 8/9 speed wheels and so told me they had to add a spacer when mounting the cassette.  No problem, I know 7-speeds are old; &quot;you should adjust the derailleur so it doesn't drop the chain&quot;, cool I can handle that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WRONG?&lt;/strong&gt;  This is where they installed the spacer, which I noted but had no idea at the time might be wrong. 1,2): LBS installed spacer below cassette, which led to 3) small cog NOT able to engage hub splines. (I verified spacer thickness was ~4.5mm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P1: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dmye7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;P2: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQhYE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;P3: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ldg5o.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the lockring friction was all that was keeping the small gear from spinning. Turns out I could spin on that cog just fine, but standing on a climb caused immediate movement and I guess lockring breakage. As soon as I stood up, I heard a bang and my feet fell out from under me; immediately I was falling forward over the handlebars and splashed on the ground with the bike on top of me (earning road-rashed arms and a fractured elbow, plus surgery for a plate and 6 screws).  I thought I had broken the chain, but it turned out to be fine.  Disassembling to put the bike in the car, I noticed the small cog was hanging loose and the lockring was gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RIGHT?&lt;/strong&gt; Playing around with the assembly aferwards, it looks like &lt;strong&gt;on top&lt;/strong&gt; is where the spacer should be placed, or at least fits best.  4) Smallest cog engages hub splines as it should; 5) the tabs in the spacer &lt;em&gt;just barely&lt;/em&gt; contact the splines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P4: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wsWNs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;P5: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9Yuj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;Add a 4.5 mm spacer before installing a 7-speed cassette on an 8-, 9-, or 10-speed hub&quot;, which does imply it should go under the cassette, but as my pictures show, ABOVE the cassette seems to make much more sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So am I right and LBS wrong?  Or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI I haven't taken the wheel back to the LBS yet (still piecing together what the failure mode was) but will eventually.  Still deciding how upset I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt; (7/13)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned some of the grease off and took some better pics.  First to clarify P3 above, there &#xA;was a very thin spacer between two smallest cogs, I assume to set correct gear spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P6: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCEgg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P7 shows the buildup of parts on the hub, with the 4.5mm spacer underneath.  First 6 cogs, add gear spacer (splines completely hidden), add 7th cog (no spline contact, it just spins). P7: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/29lN6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the same buildup on the original 7-speed hub; P8: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MN9lS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's more interesting is these pin heads protruding from the bottom of the cassette; side shot shows how much cassette is held off spacer by pins. P9: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlWQD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I have these pins, do I need a different kind of spacer, one with recesses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1674" LastEditorUserId="1674" LastEditDate="2011-07-24T13:19:15.730" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T18:55:17.900" Title="7-speed MTB cassette on 8/9-speed wheel hub, where does spacer go?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4765" CreationDate="2011-07-11T03:26:26.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, first clean the rear derailer well.  Simplest way to do this is to lean the bike against a wall (outside, where you can make a mess), slide some newspapers up behind the derailer and drape them down the the wheel (to keep from dripping all over the tire), then spray the derailer well with WD-40, using an old toothbrush to clean it up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards, wipe the derailer dry, then oil it up well with a heavy oil (preferably bike chain oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike has more than maybe 2000 miles on it then likely the chain is worn out, and possibly the rear sprockets have developed a &quot;hook&quot;.  A bike shop can check for this with a special gauge, and replace the chain if it's too badly worn.  (If &quot;hook&quot; has developed a new chain will help a bit, but the rear sprockets may need to be replaced.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, likely the rear derailer is out of adjustment.  It's not very complicated to adjust, but it takes a touch of mechanical ability to understand which way to turn things.  But mainly it's a matter of adjusting the cable tightness, which is usually done by turning a knob on the cable near the shift lever or elsewhere along the cable route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other odd possibilities for this problem are that spring has broken in the derailer (or sometimes the spring has just &quot;jumped&quot; off the tang where it's supposed to be hooked), or some jackleg replaced the chain and didn't get the length right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T03:26:26.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4766" CreationDate="2011-07-11T03:35:49.927" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks to me like the tire's been run flat.  If not that then I'd say the tire's defective -- that the factory left out a layer of cord or some such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What pressure have you been running (and how much do you weigh)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T03:35:49.927" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4768" CreationDate="2011-07-11T03:50:04.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon says the spacer should go on first, and that would make sense, to keep the sprockets the same distance from the end of the axle that they were on the old wheel.  Then only fine tweaking of the derailer would be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having just replaced the 6-speed cassette on my bike I can say that the small cog should only engage about half a cog's thickness of the splines -- you'll notice that the splines on the cog are only on the inner half and thus that's all that can engage anyway.  Can't tell for sure with the grease, but it looks like that 3rd picture is showing about the right amount of spline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the LBS guy failed to get the small cog properly engaged on the splines when he put it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW: Why didn't you just have them replace the rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T03:50:04.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2011-07-11T04:22:22.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also ride a customised or unusual-looking bicycle. Most bike theives are either looking for transport or something easy to sell. Transport theives you can't do much about, but they usually don't carry decent lock-breaking tools either - a good D lock will stop them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theives trying to resell will look at your bike and if it's distinctive and has no easily-sold components, most of them will leave it alone. Why both spending 20 minutes stealing, stripping and selling something that's going to fetch $5? Even theives have standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So rather than a beater bike, ride a tall bike, or a folding bike, or a chopper. Or just work up a set of distinctive but functional mods to your preferred bike. Like a 27&quot; front, 700c rear wheel, laced in a funky pattern. Or fit a banana seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1799" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T04:22:22.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4768" CreationDate="2011-07-11T06:55:11.140" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A spacer to convert an 8/9 speed freehub to  7 speed freehub goes behind the cassette, between the hub shell and the cassette. Most cassette lock rings will not bind on the spacer, they will go inside it if you place it on the outside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the aluminum used in most cassette spacers is too soft, and would compress under direct compression from the lock ring. It would not stay tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-24T14:49:21.923" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T14:49:21.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4766" CreationDate="2011-07-11T07:01:52.087" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are right that the tire must be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the tires are not defective. This type of cross hatching is caused by age and weather deterioration. It appears like diagonal cuts because the weave of the cloth start breaking threads, and they are woven diagonally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire is either at least 3-5 years old, or has been stored in a climate which speeds dry rotting. In this case the tire appears much older than that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is generally seen most obviously on tires which have tan side walls, as this one does. The tires with black side walls do the same thing, but it isn't as visible or as quick to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tire has a shelf life of 3-4 years, even if not ridden. I realize you said that you'd replaced them about a year ago. That could be climate affecting tire life, or it could be that they were old stock on the LBS shelf for some time before you bought them.  If you see crosshatching, or your tire feels papery and dry, rather than like rubber on the side wall, replace them. A blowout at speed is a dangerous thing, and a year of use is an acceptable lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FTR, this tire is either a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.panaracer.com/urban.php#pasela&quot;&gt;Panaracer Pasela&lt;/a&gt;, or Pasela TG. In it's narrowest form, a 700x23c they recommend a 100psi maximum. If this is as it appears, a 26 x 1.25 or 1.5, that pressure recommendation drops to 60 psi. Could possibly be a 700x38c which would be a max pressure of 90 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-11T12:03:58.003" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T12:03:58.003" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4777" CreationDate="2011-07-11T09:44:18.513" Score="2" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3oFQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK it would be a brave company that took the 'anti-car' stance when it comes to selling bicycles. Furthermore, most cycle shops, distributors and others connected with the trade are personally quite pro-car (the mechanic fixing bikes to pay for his car which he needs to get to his job fixing bikes is the classic, the accountant of one distributor driving a Porsche takes the biscuit). Then there are the customers, generally most of them are pro-car (even if necessary evil) and you cannot alienate them, can you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any companies in the bike business - large or small - that are quite open with harsh opinions about the motorcar? Or have there been, only for the business model to fail? Is deference to motoring a reality that cannot be escaped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T21:30:18.270" Title="Are there any 'anti-car' bicycle companies or shops?" Tags="&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4775" CreationDate="2011-07-11T11:00:20.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, there's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carsrcoffins.com/welcome.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cars-R-Coffins&lt;/a&gt; website, but i don't know of any shops that are actively anti-car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty counter productive, and even if you push the green dream pretty hard, it's generally recognized that positive input is better than negativity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: Most people respond better to, &quot;I ride my bike because it's good, cheap transportation, and environmentally sound.&quot; than they do to, &quot;Stop killing the planet with your 6 mpg Hummer H2, you inconsiderate #$@%!*...&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are advocacy organizations that will push the line pretty hard, but retailers and wholesalers have to maintain balance a bit better than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FTR, I don't think you are insensitive to this, i just think it's an answer that you pretty much stated in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T11:00:20.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4775" CreationDate="2011-07-11T11:29:53.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly there are many (mostly urban) bike shops that push the concept of cycling to replace auto usage.  Perhaps if you check the &quot;hippie&quot; (what would be a good modern term?) bike shops in a few large towns you'll find one or two nearly as extreme as you describe.  Certainly not the rule, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T11:29:53.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4788" CreationDate="2011-07-11T16:32:09.337" Score="2" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm preparing for a mini tour in the greek islands this August and I'm getting concerned about sun protection. I'm considering not using a helmet (as I'll reach 30 km/h max). Last year I was wearing a &quot;buff&quot; that protected me from sweat, but did not protect me from minor sunburn. Would a hat be a solution, but of what type (considering strong winds)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1729" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T17:45:52.597" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T17:45:52.597" Title="Sun protection while touring" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;sun-protection&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4780" CreationDate="2011-07-11T18:28:27.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything wrong with the traditional &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cycling_cap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycling cap&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T18:28:27.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4780" CreationDate="2011-07-11T18:44:16.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solar light cap &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.solarlightcap.com/html/buy2cglobal.php#Kayak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oasis or Kayak&lt;/a&gt; models do well for sun coverage, while additionally providing evening light power (for the touring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IdRCr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T18:44:16.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4768" CreationDate="2011-07-11T19:58:35.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are clearly some incompatibilities between your cassette body and and the new small cog that it's butting up against, as well as the additional protrusions on the back of the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct in that the small cog must fully engage against the splines and it does not appear from your third photo is that it will be able to. Though the LBS put the spacer in the correct place, they apparently missed some other fundamental incompatibility. A new 7-speed cassette will work correctly with a 4.5mm spacer; but there were so many variants of older cassettes that it is difficult to be certain what will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best solution is probably to purchase a new cassette, as compatibility with an 8-speed cassette body using the 4.5mm spacer will then be correct.  If price is particularly a sensitive matter, you could alternatively modify the spacer you have to fit appropriately.  Off-the-shelf spacers for this situation don't exist, unfortunately.  It looks like you'd need to notch it for the three prongs on the back as well as remove a small amount of material to account for the protrusions on the front of the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever solution you pursue, the mechanic that did this installation should have noticed the assembly failure and advised you to of your options rather than letting you ride off with an unsecured cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T02:03:05.310" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T02:03:05.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4775" CreationDate="2011-07-11T21:30:18.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I surely think bike shops should encourage cycling, its in their best interests, its also in their best interests to sell bikes to motorists. At the end of they day most bicycle shops have to make a living so I guess they will happily sell a bike to anyone. Maybe there are some lucky shops who have enough business from cycling fanatics and can afford to alienate drivers, but this attitude is not going to encourage anyone out of their cars..... Peace man.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T21:30:18.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2011-07-11T21:40:54.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sit up and beg bike for getting around town and locking up near dodgy places, Its a 31 year old bike its in perfect mechanical working order, dynamo/lights. And it has some perfectly placed rust/corrosion on the stainless steal parts. I never wash it if possible. People seem to look the other way, little do they know its a mean machine in disguise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope I haven't jinxed it.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T21:40:54.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4780" CreationDate="2011-07-11T22:25:36.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend wearing a helmet and something like a cycling cap or something similar to an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsonly.com/shop/images/P/ua_skull_cap250.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;UnderArmour skull cap&quot;&gt;Under Armour skull cap&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; that can absorb sweat and protect your head from the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your neck, I've always used sunscreen during sunny rides.  Get a bottle that can fit in your saddlebag or backpack, and apply it liberally and as often as necessary.  Sunscreen will protect you from the sun without impeding your ability to move, and it will not be affected by strong winds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T22:25:36.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-11T22:34:13.613" Score="6" ViewCount="6987" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to replace the hub on my front wheel, from a QR to a 20mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much labor, skill, equipment, etc. does that need, and how much time should I expect a pro to charge for, to do the rebuild?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1803" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T03:55:02.237" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T02:55:41.447" Title="How long should it take to rebuild a wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="22" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4780" CreationDate="2011-07-11T22:58:47.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely do something to protect the back of the neck, and your ears (even with a helmet).  The other area that it seems often &quot;surprises&quot; you is the backs of your lower legs (though this may be peculiar to the higher latitudes I frequent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You of course need a sleeved jersey or sun lotion on your arms, and either knee-length pants or sun lotion on the tops of your thighs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I'll add that I've several times been on tours with a guy who has &quot;sun allergy&quot;, and he does remarkably well in a full-length Tyvek suit.  On hot days when you'd expect him to suffocate, he churns merrily along.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T22:58:47.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4765" CreationDate="2011-07-11T23:14:19.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have crashed or if your bike has fallen over, you may have bent the derailleur hanger, the part that attaches the derailleur to your frame.  If this is the case, it cannot be fixed simply by adjustment of the derailleur.  The remedy for a bent derailleur hanger is either to bend it back in place with a derailleur hanger alignment gauge or buy a new derailleur hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the limits are set correctly for your front and rear derailleurs in addition to making sure the cable length is proper.  This is done by tightening or loosening the screws on your derailleur that are marked L and H (for low and high, respectively).  Sheldon Brown has a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Sheldon Brown's article about derailleur/derailer adjustment&quot;&gt;article about adjusting derailleurs&lt;/a&gt; that explains this more in depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chain itself is the source of your problems, it may need to be cleaned and/or lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chain is gummed up, I recommend using a citrus degreaser that you can buy at your local hardware store instead of WD-40 as a solvent because WD-40 leaves a film when it dries and citrus degreaser does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then lubricate your chain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much you ride, you should lubricate your chain every few rides to every few weeks so your chain doesn't seize or wear itself down.  If you are riding in dusty, dry areas, consider using a dry lubricant such as teflon that will not pick up dust like an oil lubricant will.  Alternatively, if you are riding in normal conditions, chain oil is your best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T23:14:19.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4792" CreationDate="2011-07-12T01:59:47.963" Score="24" ViewCount="59124" Body="&lt;p&gt;A front wheel with a quick release mechanism can be installed in two orientations: the lever on the left, or the lever on the right.  Does it matter in which orientation it's installed?  If so, would any problems result from installing it the wrong way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1804" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T16:37:40.623" Title="In which orientation should a front wheel be installed?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-07-12T02:07:49.200" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, a front rim is symmetrical, and it doesn't matter which direction it's in. Unlike the rear wheel, where there's a drivetrain side and a non-drivetrain side, the only place where the quick-release handle can be. However, there are some other considerations to keep in mind: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires will sometimes have a &lt;strong&gt;tread direction&lt;/strong&gt;. This is usually marked on the tread itself, in the form of an arrow with &quot;direction of rotation&quot; indicated. If you put a rim on a backwards from how you installed the tire, that could be swapped by mistake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, it makes sense to have the quick releases for both wheels on the same side. I make sure when putting a tire on the rim to set it up so, if both release handles are on the same side, the front tire is in the direction of rotation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes may introduce other considerations; other answers on this page address this. Outside of that, it mechanically makes no difference what side the quick-release is on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T17:54:04.420" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T17:54:04.420" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-07-12T02:15:23.243" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally the QR lever on the rear tire is on the left, so as to not interfere with the derailer.  It makes (a little) sense to put the QR lever of the front tire on the same side (at least if you have any OCD tendencies).  But it basically doesn't matter, so long as the tire has no preferred rotation direction (and you don't have something like disk brakes that demands a certain orientation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And if the tire direction is wrong you can always remove the skewer and insert it from the other side -- the axle itself is perfectly symmetrical.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T02:15:23.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2011-07-12T03:10:59.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I live in NYC and would like to ride to work during the winter as well. What should one do to a mountain bike? a road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought (and started to ride) my bike in February this year, in Toronto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_brake#Disc_brakes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hydraulic disc brakes&lt;/a&gt; (which work when it's wet (or snowing), need &lt;strike&gt;relatively little&lt;/strike&gt; no maintenance (no cables to adjust, and the brake pads are hard) and want professional- and not self-servicing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It had new tires (700x32 Continental Contact at 85 psi), which I found were surprisingly OK on snow a few times (at reduced speed), and fine on wet and dry pavement, but can slip and fall on ice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two LBSes agreed on Finish Line Wet Lubricant (the 2nd sold me Dry Teflon Lube to use in summer) for the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame is Aluminium (and so I hope impervious to corrosion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has fenders and a rack, and bright blinking lights; and I have a pannier, and gloves and a jacket and waistcoat-shaped fleecy, and a hat or helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LBS I bought it from offers free servicing twice a year for the first two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mountain bike: might you also need to winterize the suspension somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T03:10:59.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-07-12T03:59:42.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand the question, I am pretty sure that bicycle tires are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=heteroflexible&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heteroflexible&lt;/a&gt;, and their orientation, which side, same side, opposite side, does not really matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have been told it's best to mount them so that the lever itself points to the back of the bicycle, so it does not get trapped in anything and pop open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1805" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T07:57:51.820" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T07:57:51.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2011-07-12T07:25:59.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To keep my kits from smelling terrible, I shower immediately after a ride and bring the kit and some laundry detergent into the shower with me.  I hand-wash the kit while it's still fresh.  I dry the kit by rolling it up in a towel a few times in different orientations to get the excess water out and then just hang it to dry fully.  It's a cheaper alternative to the coin-op washing machines after every ride and it allows for stopping the BO early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T07:25:59.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4690" CreationDate="2011-07-12T07:53:57.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Assos Active Wear cleanser which is a commercial product that does the same as some of the home remedies previously listed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works for me, and it has the benefit of maintaining the warranty on the Assos Clothing, which is worthwhile, given the extreme cost of the clothing to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their clothes are guaranteed not to shrink, stretch or become misshapen, if you follow the directions for care. If you have an issue, they will repair or replace them. (The time frame is relative, but I've had my F1.13 bibs replaced after 1.5 years, so it should be at least a 2 year period.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost varies, but in my area the small bottle is 10 dirhams (USD 2.5) and the large bottle is 40 dirhams (USD 10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*Note - this refers to issues with care, not with sewing or graphic defects. That portion of the warranty is 200 miles or 300km on the&#xA;  bike, which is flexible to say the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Assos website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[Active Wear Cleanser][1]&#xA;&#xA;When laundering ASSOS clothing, we recommend traditional hand washing&#xA;or gentle machine washing, using ASSOS Active Wear Cleanser. ASSOS&#xA;Active Wear Cleanser is delicate on elastic fibers, pH neutral,&#xA;neutralizes odors, enhances textile breathability and maintains sharp&#xA;color sublimation.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Lsie.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottle of Assos Activewear Cleanser&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T07:53:57.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4423" CreationDate="2011-07-12T09:14:24.853" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love disc brakes.  I took a 2002 Trek Alpha 4500 with the goal of making a raceworthy hardtail bike, and I knew that disc brakes were a must.  I love making wheels, so I laced my own front and rear wheels to my own specifications.  Making your own wheels is a big undertaking if you're new at it, and since you want to make sure the disc wheels are strong, your best bet is to buy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there are two main kinds of disc brake hubs.  The standard &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtb198.oneninety8llc.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/6-bolt-hub.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Six-Bolt Hub&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goshopbikes.co.uk/img/shimano-xt-front-hub-32h-center-lock_213207_500.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Center Lock Hub&quot;&gt;Center Lock Hub&lt;/a&gt;.  The Six-Bolt Hub is the one I recommend.  Brake calipers often are packaged with six-bolt rotors (the disc part of the disc brake).  Based on the size of the rotors (I recommend 160mm for both for your style of riding), you will likely have to get a mounting bracket or an adapter so the calipers will attach properly to your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rebuilt my Trek with an Avid BB7 mechanical rear disc brake and a Hayes HFX hydraulic front disc brake.  Based on my experiences, I advise against getting Hayes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Avid BB7s are great as far as mechanical disc brakes go: You can adjust the brake pads on either side of the rotor and get the braking power you need, and since it's not absolutely necessary to have full housing on mechanical disc brakes, you do not have to alter the cable stops on your bike frame in order to convert to disc brakes.  You would have to alter the cable stops if you were to switch to hydros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes are far better than rim brakes in wet conditions and dusty conditions.  The drawback is that your bike will look flashier, and if you don't bring it indoors with you or lock it up in a safe place, it may disappear when you leave it unattended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1b5MT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My rebuilt Trek 4500 with disc brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T09:14:24.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4802" CreationDate="2011-07-12T09:55:05.947" Score="2" ViewCount="2216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my chain (for the first time).  My bike is roughly 4 years old using Alivio 8 speed (24 gears) system.  Looking at wiggle they seem to have 3 chains available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at other questions on here, (for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2790/are-all-9-speed-chains-compatible-with-all-9-speed-systems&quot;&gt;Are all 9 speed chains compatible with all 9 speed systems?&lt;/a&gt;) it would seem that any 8 speed should work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to ask is there a good reason to go for one or another (they all roughly the same price, within a few pounds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/?s=shimano+8%20speed%20chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/?s=shimano+8%20speed%20chain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T11:01:20.600" Title="4 year old alivio 8 speed rear gears - compatible chain" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-07-12T10:14:12.763" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, there can be difference, &lt;strong&gt;if you are using disc brakes&lt;/strong&gt;. For practical reasons, you should put the release on opposite side to the brake rotor to avoid accidentaly touching it. First, it may be still hot from braking, when you need to swap the tire, second, your hands can have oil (or your body oil mixed with sweat) on them and that can be bad for the rotor surface and brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the road bikes it is considered to be a &lt;strong&gt;tradition&lt;/strong&gt; to put them on the left, non drive side (front and back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T10:14:12.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4799" CreationDate="2011-07-12T10:17:26.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as the Shimano chains that you have 'linked to' there are also the SRAM chains. These have the 'powerlink' that enables you to put the chain on and take it off a bit easier (almost tool free).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although Shimano can make a good chain these days, this has not been the historical situation. Because of this there are a lot of people like myself that advocate the SRAM (formerly SEDIS) chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google SRAM 8 Speed Chain and you will find affordable and expensive variants. The more expensive ones have more nickel plating on them, but are essentially the same chain underneath. The basic ones work great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 speed chains are marginally fatter than their nine speed counterparts, 8 speed chains should also work fine on 7 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T10:17:26.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4799" CreationDate="2011-07-12T11:01:20.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, all 8 speed chains are not compatible. For that matter, neither are all 9 speed chains. But for practical purposes, they will be within tolerance to work well enough. Ideal shifting is best obtained with all components being of the same design, in good condition, and good adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chains you linked to: There are 2 types of Shimano 8 speed chains. The common one, HG or Hyperglide and IG, or Interglide chains, which are not designed to work together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have HG, and buy a shimano chain, you should get an HG chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRAM chains have looser tolerances, so any 7/8 speed chain will do as well as any other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not saying you can't use any 8 speed chain. Only that some will shift better than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T11:01:20.600" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2011-07-12T12:52:38.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These two wall mounted racks from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclehoop.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cyclehoop&lt;/a&gt; have the advantage of being bothe secure and visually pleasing, to y way of thinking at least. They have several designs of racks, storage and accessories for bicycles. No affiliation here, just FTR. Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclehoop.com/products/wall-mounted-rack/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cycle Hoop Wall Mounted Rack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8PPlG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cycle Hoop Wall Mounted Rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclehoop.com/products/wall-anchor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cycle Hoop Wall Anchor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/raMx5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cycle Hoop Wall Anchor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T12:52:38.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-07-12T15:49:10.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that it is really important for the logo on the front hub to be the right way up when looking at the bike from the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The q-r lever should be on the left because it then does not have any possibility to entangle with the q-r lever of the bike in front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lever should also be folder to point upwards in parallel with the fork blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tyre should be pointing in the direction marked forward on the sidewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having one of these points wrong distresses me deeply. Particularly if the tyre has to be taken off and turned around so it aligns with the logo on the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T15:49:10.133" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4118" CreationDate="2011-07-12T16:40:45.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found grip shifts to have more problems over time than trigger shifters.  If you plan on riding this particular bike for several years, I recommend swapping out the revoshift in favor of comparably priced shimano trigger shifters.  Since you are even considering taking apart the shifter, I believe you will be able to install new shifters, cables and housing.  Remember that new cables will stretch quickly, so if you choose to change shifters, be prepared to adjust the cable lengths after the first couple rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to fix the shifter you have, make sure to take a picture of the shifter mechanism when you open it up before starting to work on it.  Then make an outline of what you see on a piece of paper and tape to it the screws you remove in their respective locations.  Make new such outlines for each level of shifter as you remove more pieces.  This way you can avoid losing tiny screws and springs and other pieces and you will know what goes where when you try to reassemble the shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T16:40:45.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4810" CreationDate="2011-07-12T16:52:06.023" Score="7" ViewCount="2808" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I are planning a cycling trip through Europe. This will be our second, and we're planning to build a pair of dedicating touring bikes for this (and other) adventures. We'd like suggestions on how to most cheaply and reliably get our bikes from the United States to Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On our previous trip, we ended up having to change carriers, as Delta wanted to charge us a total of $1,600 ($200 per leg per bike, with two bikes and four legs round-trip) to get our bikes back and forth. We switched to Continental, who thankfully only charged an extra $400, but the experience makes us worry about future travel. What we're most worried about is the uncertainty: we may expect the fees to be one amount, but a change in oversize baggage surcharges or a disagreement over the policies with airline personnel could result in us being charged far more than is reasonable. And we may only find this out at checkin, which would be far too late to alter our plans. Thankfully, after getting conflicting information from two Delta staff members over the phone, I confirmed the excessive bicycle surcharge in time to change our flight. Next time, we might not be so lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we've decided to build our bikes, my first thought was to spend the extra money for S&amp;amp;S coupled frames (the awesome &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/frames/trucker_deluxe_frame/&quot;&gt;Surly Trucker DeLuxe&lt;/a&gt;) and a matching S&amp;amp;S hard case. This right now seems like the best approach, but it might be annoying with hub dyno powered lights. Two problems come to mind with this approach: 1) I ride a 62cm frame, which still may not fit into a regulation-sized case, and 2) airlines lose baggage all the time. I can't think of a more depressing situation than to wind up in Europe ready to go, with our bikes nowhere to be found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to skip the couplers and simply our bikes. From what I've seen, this is simply prohibitively expensive. For instance, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeflights.com&quot;&gt;Bikeflights&lt;/a&gt; quoted us over $2,000 to round-trip our two bikes in standard hardshell cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of these seem great, so I feel like we're stuck between a rock and a hard place. Does anyone with experience in traveling with bikes have suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T16:10:51.667" Title="Traveling Overseas with Bikes" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4787" CreationDate="2011-07-12T17:04:41.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think if you are willing to spend a few hours, it's worth doing yourself.  Depending on the flange size of the new hub, though, you may need to buy new spokes.  You can determine the length of the spokes you will need using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Spoke Length Calculator&quot;&gt;spoke length calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a spoke wrench, a flat-head screwdriver, some vaseline, and the use of a truing stand.  Here's what you'll have to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the tire, innertube, and rim tape from the wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a spoke wrench, loosen and remove the nipples.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are using the same spokes, remove the spokes from the old hub.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lace the wheel, making ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the valve will be in the right place.  Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's step-by-step wheelbuilding page&lt;/a&gt; for the procedure of lacing a 3x (three-cross) wheel.  You will want to use a little bit of vaseline on the threads of each spoke so you can tighten the nipples more easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to a nearby bicycle cooperative (you can google bicycle co-op near nameofyourtown) to use a truing stand, and use the truing stand to adjust the wheel.  Make sure the wheel is dished properly and that you have proper tension on the spokes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because spokes stretch a little and settle in after you start riding, be prepared to true the wheel after the first couple rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not interested in making your own wheel, I recommend just buying a new wheel with the hub you want.  It may be cheaper than getting your lbs to rebuild your wheel with your new hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T17:04:41.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4806" CreationDate="2011-07-12T17:43:26.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most advice I've heard or read contains some form of &quot;shop around&quot; combined with white lies and omissions when dealing with the airlines about the contents of your bags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the white lies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know BMX racers who've used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.dkbicycles.com/DK-Golf-Bike-Bag-Black/dp/B00488Y236?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;id=DK%20Golf%20Bike%20Bag%20Black&amp;amp;field_product_site_launch_date_utc=-1y&amp;amp;field_availability=-1&amp;amp;field_browse=2491926011&amp;amp;searchSize=12&amp;amp;searchNodeID=2491926011&amp;amp;searchPage=1&amp;amp;refinementHistory=brandtextbin,subjectbin,color_map,price,size_name&amp;amp;searchRank=salesrank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Golf&quot; bike bag from DK&lt;/a&gt;. Golfers sometimes get discounts on their golf bags from airlines. I don't think the bag would be large enough for a road bike, though. That, and it's pretty shady, considering some airlines actually give &lt;em&gt;discounts&lt;/em&gt; for golf luggage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along those shady lines, I've heard racers say that their bags contain a &quot;wheeled chair&quot; or another large item that doesn't include a secondary surcharge (&quot;Sporting goods&quot;) to avoid bicycle surcharges. Lots of traveling cyclists simply refuse to use bike bags that advertise their purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there's the shopping around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, some opt to ship their bikes to their destination in advance of their flight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacycling.org/news/user/story.php?id=2589&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;USA Cycling members get a 10% domestic or 15% international discount when flying United&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;European airlines tend to have less stringent bicycle policies, so if you're traveling internationally, take a good look at the airlines of the country to which you're flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T17:43:26.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4787" CreationDate="2011-07-12T18:21:13.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a call around to 3 local reputable shops. The time for this job by a pro is estimated at 2 - 3 hours. The labor charges are estimated at $40 to $60. Any parts needed add to the cost. This is localized to Portland, OR where there are numerous bike shops. I'm sure the &lt;em&gt;price&lt;/em&gt; will vary depending on the location; but the &lt;em&gt;time&lt;/em&gt; involved should be about the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you do this yourself...the time it will take will depend on your experience...so anywhere from a couple of hours to several hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T18:21:13.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4806" CreationDate="2011-07-12T18:49:27.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm a US Expatriate. That is, a US citizen, living in Dubai. We travel. And we travel with our bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need for stress regarding traveling with a bike. It just requires preparation. When you buy your tickets, tell them you will be checking a bike case. It legitimately falls under the sporting goods exemptions for oversized luggage. Most airlines have a flat fee. American, who we're flying with in 2 days, charges 150 USD each way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print the airline policies regarding bikes to take with you to checkin. Many airlines employees don't know their own policies, so you need proof for their sake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a hard case. Some airlines require it no matter what, and others won't guarantee the condition of your bike without one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;S&amp;amp;S couplers are a good idea, and the electrical issues can be worked out.  A 62cm frame will fit most boxes, especially if you have couplers. And if you're unsure, look at B&amp;amp;W Bike cases. Good quality, plenty big, and airline safe. As for losing or breaking your bikes, nothing to be done there. Except check the bikes thoroughly before you leave the airport, and make them pay. They must replace or repair a damaged or missing bike. While it will be unpleasant, it won't be the end of the world. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly, it's not too big a deal. Delta's policies state that their 200 USD fees are not supposed to be for each leg. It's supposed to be for The whole distance, city to city, unless you booked each leg separately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the average, about 200 each way. Be prepared, and don't back down. You'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T18:54:36.533" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T18:54:36.533" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4787" CreationDate="2011-07-12T19:02:32.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2-3 hours of shop time. In Park City, I'd expect 100-150 US dollars.&#xA;  150 would be on the high side. – zenbike 15 hours ago&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it can be done faster, and likely will be, but this is a standard time to expect. Your shop rates may vary, but the time should be consistent around the globe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T19:02:32.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4806" CreationDate="2011-07-12T20:22:35.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One disadvantage of flying with an S&amp;amp;S bike and hard case is that you need to store the case while you are out riding - depending on your travel plans this could be inconvenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I went to Europe from the US last summer I flew with Air France - they count &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airfrance.com/JO/en/common/guidevoyageur/pratique/bagage_equipement_sport_airfrance.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bicycles under 50lbs as normal checked baggage&lt;/a&gt;. They also sell cardboard bike boxes at their major terminals (i.e. CDG) for 5€, so we were able to discard our boxes upon arrival and pick up new ones when we were ready to depart. They seemed to be extremely comfortable handling bicycles as baggage and had we had no issues with damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles.SE also has &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5/how-to-get-a-bike-from-one-city-to-another-in-the-u-s/40#40&quot;&gt;an excellent answer explaining how to pack your bicycle for travel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did have an issue with lost baggage - the handlers at SEA failed to load our bikes onto the plane we were on, so we had to wait for the next plane to arrive for them to be delivered to our lodgings in Paris.  No matter how you are travelling with your bicycle by airline, you'll probably want to leave a window of ~48 hours at the start of your trip to allow for a variety of delays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T07:01:44.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4821" CreationDate="2011-07-12T22:37:03.667" Score="3" ViewCount="19250" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title says it all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, should I vary the fabric through the year? Should I go with lycra in the summer and wool in the winter? And maybe, should I wear cotton?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do 2 types of riding. Commuting and endurance cycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are optimal fabrics for cycling and for athletic gear in general. What should I look for regarding cycling clothing?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;October - April = Typically wet and cool/cold. We don't get much frigid weather, but it does occur for short periods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May - September = Usually warm and dry. We don't get a lot 90+F temps, but do at times. Out on the coast it can be cool and damp this time of year. East of the Cascades, hot to very hot and dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can this be converted to a community wiki? It has become apparent that the optimal fabric is personal choice and climate determined. Personally, I prefer merino wool and lycra/synthetics; but others find cotton to be their optimal choice.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-07-15T16:22:46.717" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T09:56:40.940" Title="What are optimal fabrics for cycling clothing?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4813" CreationDate="2011-07-12T22:50:39.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a cotton man year round, I guess it depends on where you live and just how stylish you wish to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T22:50:39.080" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4813" CreationDate="2011-07-12T23:42:18.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cotton....Gets wet, stays wet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a wide variety of cycling gear for a variety of situations.  Depends primarily on the weather.&#xA;In warm, weather, a simple jersey and cycling shorts pretty well does it.  Good lycra shorts breathe, provide protection, and improve upper-leg circulation as well.&#xA;Jerseys have evolved over 100 years.  They are utterly functional and well-suited to the task.&#xA;You don't have to buy expensive &quot;team&quot; gear; I have 20 dollar Nashbar jerseys I bought 30 years ago.&#xA;As it gets colder and/or more inclement, you need more gear.  Cycling gear should breathe, it should &quot;wick&quot; perspiration away from the skin, and outer garments should provide some wind protection.&#xA;Depends on how cold you want to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T23:42:18.063" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4813" CreationDate="2011-07-12T23:48:38.650" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wool, particularly Merino wool, is tough to beat. It's partially hydrophilic, cooling you by wicking sweat away from the skin while also retaining warmth when wet. It's lightweight, soft, and has natural mild antibacterial and antifungal properties that reduce the amount of funky odors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main downside compared to synthetic fabrics is probably cost, especially for cycling-specific apparel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T23:48:38.650" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4820" CreationDate="2011-07-13T00:37:22.287" Score="1" ViewCount="3618" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long does it take to replace bottom bracket bearings? Is there anything that can make the procedure take more or less time? How does the type of mechanism affect repair time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T05:27:57.417" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T11:56:25.527" Title="How long does it take to replace bottom bracket bearings?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4813" CreationDate="2011-07-13T00:46:55.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I no longer cycle 12 months/year, limiting my cycling to weather that's reasonably comfortable with nothing heavier than a light long-sleeve jersey and lightweight tights (possibly augmented by a &quot;sauna suit&quot; when it seems a better option to get wet from the inside rather than the outside).  Socks are always Coolmax.  Glove liners under my fingerless cycling gloves in cooler weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time I just wear a lightweight cotton tee shirt and standard &quot;spandex&quot; cycling shorts.  I used to cycle in jogging shorts but decided as I got older I needed a bit better padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back when I was cycling in the winter I'd use, depending on the temp, Goretex jacket and pants, long underwear (standard Sears issue), windproof undershorts, heavier Coolmax socks, rubber booties.  Ski mittens over glove liners on my hands.  Never could find a balaclava that fit my beard and I don't do scarves, so the face was always a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is Minnesota, with most of the cycling being back and forth to work 10-25 miles one way on country roads.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I'll add that I never quite got into the ice bike thing -- didn't use studs and could only cycle on days that the roads were clear.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T01:40:18.740" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T01:40:18.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4817" CreationDate="2011-07-13T00:58:36.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of cranks are cartridges, even when the wheel bearings are loose balls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it's a relatively simple process to pull apart the bottom bracket.  Probably takes less than 5 minutes to get the cranks off and the cup out, unless something's stuck.  Then clean things up and pack in the new bearings and grease.  (This is where I can't guess, since with my tremor it takes 4 times as long to count out the bearings as it would someone else.)  Another 5-10 minutes to put the cup and lockring back properly adjusted, put the cranks on, and torque things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cartridge replacement would be about the same, only it skips that middle part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T00:58:36.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4817" CreationDate="2011-07-13T01:11:07.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three main categories of bottom bracket, adjustable type, cartridge-style, and external-bearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cartridge-style&lt;/strong&gt; bottom brackets are not serviceable, the replacement requires replacing the entire bottom bracket assembly. Removing the cranks and installing the new bottom bracket is a pretty straightforward task, and should take less than 20-30 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adjustable-type&lt;/strong&gt; can require a little bit of time to get the tension right, plus they are typically more difficult to remove due to the fidgetiness of lockring spanners and the fact that the fixed-cup is typically seized hard into the frame.  I'd allot ~45 minutes to an hour for that task. Depending on the brand of cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External-bearing&lt;/strong&gt; splits the difference - some have more steps  than cartridge bottom brackets, some are equally simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in all cases, using the correct tools is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="132" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T11:56:25.527" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T11:56:25.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4813" CreationDate="2011-07-13T03:16:27.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lycra is an amazing clothing fabric for any weather above 55°F. It sheds heat quickly, wicks moisture away, and evaporates that moisture extremely quickly. I recently finished a 12 hour, 190mi ride in 90°F temperatures completely comfortable and dry. I challenge anyone to find a clothing material that can come close to lycra's effectiveness in that regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also an excellent in the rain, as long as temperature is not a factor. Again, moisture evaporates surprisingly quickly, so as soon as the rain stops, you're dry again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I wouldn't wear only lycra is during the cold, especially if it's raining as well. I still wear it under more protective clothing, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T03:16:27.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20" CreationDate="2011-07-13T03:16:52.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience racing USAC Collegiate xc and short track, disc brakes are the way to go, and I prefer hydraulic to mechanical, as long as they're the right model.  You can find a lot of reviews on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/brakes/disc-brake-system/pls_1507crx.aspx&quot;&gt;mtbr.com forum about disc brakes&lt;/a&gt; to find one that would work for you.  The Avid Elixir R SLs I use on my full-suspension mtb have never let me down and are easy to adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From general riding experience, disc brakes are much more responsive in dusty and wet situations than v-brakes are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes provide another advantage during race situations: If you flat during a race, you just have to flip your bike over, open the quick-release and pull the wheel off.  Since disc brakes don't go around the tire like rim brakes do, you don't have to disengage or reengage the brakes when you pull the wheel off or put it back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you're running rim brakes and you hit a rock during a race that makes your wheel go out of true, your rim will be hitting the brake pads while you ride, which can end your hopes of placing.  With disc brakes, your braking power is not affected by the trueness of the wheel.  You'll probably want to true the wheel when you get back to your tent, but your race isn't over if you're running discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T03:16:52.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4813" CreationDate="2011-07-13T04:24:50.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only worn cotton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-5C .. +10C: Bike shoes, jeans, cotton shirt. Outer-wear: poly zipped waistcoat, gortex rain jacket or lightly quilted (not duvet) snow jacket, bike gloves, ski mitts carried in pannier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below freezing you don't get wet. It doesn't snow hard enough to get your pants soaked. A snow jacket will keep your body dry. A simple jacket will keep you warm (except in strong winds, when you wouldn't be out) at temperatures down to -8C, even when you're biking slowly because of snow. Being warm outside in winter is one of the things about biking that feels super-human.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ski gloves and a long-sleeved poly fleecy under your waterproof quilted snow jacket and on top of your shirt-sleeved cotton shirt, in temperatures below freezing including snow storms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+15 .. +30C: Bike shoes, cotton 'cargo shorts', cotton shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main complaint (2000 miles in 4 months) is that I'm wearing through the seats of my various cotton jeans and shorts, at an accelerated rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: the above is for cold and dry, cold and icy, cool and dry, and hot and dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cold and wet I have a goretex anorak which remains wind-proof when wet and which, if zipped, will keep my body warm in above-zero temperatures for as long as I keep biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hot and wet I asked a question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4530&quot;&gt;Summer rain jacket recommendations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T04:24:50.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="220" CreationDate="2011-07-13T06:31:23.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The common Shimano Dynamo hubs don't actually use sealed cartridge bearings, see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/DH/EV-DH-3N71_2N71-2419B_v1_m56577569830621032.pdf&quot;&gt;DH-3N71&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/DH/EV-DH-3D72-2858A_v1_m56577569830728402.pdf&quot;&gt;DH-3D72&lt;/a&gt; techdocs. Shimano dynohubs do use good seals, however, and should hopefully be maintenance-free for many thousands of miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alistair Spence has a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/duncancycles/5169065387/&quot;&gt;exploded view&lt;/a&gt; of an Alfine DH-S500, which is very similar to the DH-3D71.  He also links there to a disassembly guide PDF, the original of which can be seen (minus images) in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20090107023114/http://trinitybicycles.com/shimanodynohuboverhaul.php&quot;&gt;internet archive&lt;/a&gt;.  The steps are basically the same as a standard front hub, with the caveat that it is important to be careful to avoid breaking the axle wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T06:31:23.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4825" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-13T06:39:40.893" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T06:39:40.893" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T06:39:40.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4826" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-13T06:39:40.893" Score="0" Body="Related specifically to bicycling in the United States of America." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T06:47:08.163" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T06:47:08.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4827" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-13T06:40:05.167" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T06:40:05.167" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T06:40:05.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4828" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-13T06:40:05.167" Score="0" Body="Related specifically to bicycling in the United Kingdom." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T06:47:11.393" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T06:47:11.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4837" CreationDate="2011-07-13T07:22:15.313" Score="9" ViewCount="74377" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I know when bearings need to be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I go by time? Or is there a symptom to guide me? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T05:24:49.443" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T18:39:41.893" Title="When do bearings need to be replaced? " Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4813" CreationDate="2011-07-13T07:27:09.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Breathability is the key. So I prefer polyester and when its cold, hiking underwear, a soft-cell jacket (or a fleece for short rides), mitten gloves and soft cell trourers when its too cold. Cotton no way, wool not recomended&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1729" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T07:27:09.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4817" CreationDate="2011-07-13T09:05:02.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best case is in a workshop, surrounded by all required tools, with a showroom full of every conceivable 'Shimano' spare next door, this is a ten minute job. That is with pressure on (customer getting while-you-wait service for some reason) and a simple swap-over of new parts. This used to be a fairly common procedure in the early days of mountain-biking before cartridge bottom-brackets became available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inevitably this would be nearer half an hour if time is taken into account for customer service, i.e. extracting money from customer's wallet, allowing them time to decide whether or not they wanted the XT bottom bracket and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not be surprised if it took seconds rather than minutes (or even hours) to put the original bottom bracket in. So the best-case workshop time is slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for one's own bike, even with extensive workshop experience, give it a whole weekend. And maybe the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you have to get the parts off with tools that you have lost somewhere. This means a major clear up. Then the tools (if they fit) don't work too well as something on the bike has corroded. A sit down with a cup of tea (maybe watching the Grand Prix) later, they still don't come off, but perhaps enough bits come out for a visit to the bike shop to get the right spares. It being a busy weekend it can take a long time to be served and with parking, another hour goes by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, after much physical effort the parts come out. Then it suddenly makes sense to tidy all the components and frame to pristine, as-new condition. Obviously this is needed, isn't it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you find that you read the axle length correctly but the one in the box differs from what it says on the box. Another trip to the bike shop. Because your bike is different, a special order has to be made, or you are forced to buy the deluxe version, perhaps with a whole new chainset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally it takes five minutes to put the part in, another twenty minutes of ride to make sure the front gears are working properly, another ten minutes of tweaking and another quick polish of the bike, perhaps taking time to touch up the paint from where it got brutalised earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T09:05:02.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7475" CreationDate="2011-07-13T09:59:36.300" Score="1" ViewCount="1119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can find boxers of various materials such as latex, spandex, nylon, cotton, merino -- now I am totally lost for the reasons to pay about 30 times more for Merino boxers. I am more interested in the material so I may find a cheaper alternative with different name to &quot;bicycle pants&quot;. I am particularly interested in products that moves the moisture out and sure marketing like you do not need to clean them sound interesting but not sure whether just marketing (that way I would not need to carry too many extra pants).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, help me to find some proper cycling pants/boxer/things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.backcountry.com/stoic-merino-boxer-brief-mens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; an expensive example in Merino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-02T17:59:09.783" LastActivityDate="2012-01-02T17:59:09.783" Title="Are Merino cycling boxers/cycling pants worth the cost?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4780" CreationDate="2011-07-13T11:05:00.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wear sunscreen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure it has UVA and UVB protection, check the SPF and the UVA star rating (higher numbers means more protection). Make sure you apply enough sunscreen and reapply it often enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some fairly detailed information on sunscreen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.informationisbeautiful.net/2011/the-sunscreen-smokescreen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that you might find useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T11:05:00.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4833" CreationDate="2011-07-13T11:41:52.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3 pairs of Pearl Izumi standard black cycling shorts.  They are a little expensive (for my tastes) -- a basic pair runs about $75-100, depending on where you buy it -- but they wear pretty well.  The oldest pair (which is beginning to come apart and is now just &quot;backup&quot;) is about 8 years old and has probably has the equivalent of 5K miles on it (in addition to wearing them while cycling I wear them in the gym on days when I use an exercise bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a week tour I generally carry all 3 pair, and use the two better ones each 3-4 days without washing (with the 3rd as backup, as I said).  (I typically limit washing of the shorts to no more often than once a week anyway, since washing causes more wear on the shorts than riding in them, and I'm that cheap.)  I will rinse out a pair if they get exceptionally sweaty (and dry them on the back rack while riding) but that doesn't happen too often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T11:41:52.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4830" CreationDate="2011-07-13T15:13:36.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I know when bearings need to be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I can tell is to put the bike on the cycle stand and use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://encrypted.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;q=mechanics%20stethescope&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mechanics stethoscope&lt;/a&gt; to listen to the bearings as I roll them. You can also find bearings in need of clean and lube, but this requires a trained ear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By placing the stethoscope end on various bearing mount points or housings, you can hear the condition of the bearing as you roll it. The faster you roll it the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T15:13:36.783" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4830" CreationDate="2011-07-13T18:34:45.510" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I refurbish a lot of older bikes for re-sale.  The first thing I do is to pop off the wheels and manually turn the axles to see if the bearings are suspect.  If the axle turns roughly, has side-to-side play, or is hard to turn...They probably do.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be &quot;no more friction than supplied by the grease&quot; when turned by hand.  You cannot do this with the wheel on the bike.&#xA;If you have the tools; cone wrenches and such, then a wheel rebuild is both easy and cheap.  The best-grade #25 bearings are inexpensive.   If the cones are shot it's a different story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time?  My police patrol bike, with well over 3000 miles, still feels perfect.  If you ride in the rain a lot, or ride off-road through mud and sand and through water crossings, naturally you're going to need more frequent maintenance.&#xA;Bearings are something to check say...Yearly for most riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T18:34:45.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="79" CreationDate="2011-07-13T18:41:20.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had SPDs and eggbeaters, and I love the Crank Bros eggbeater pedals. I've found them to be way better than SPDs. You can clip in on four sides rather than two, and in my experience, they're easier to clip out of in emergency situations than SPDs are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, unlike SPDs, eggbeaters don't have flat surfaces, so you're less likely to slip off if you're trying to get back on after hike-a-bike sections of muddy trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ghynm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank Bros Eggbeaters&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YrAon.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano SPDs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T18:41:20.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4839" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-13T21:37:23.120" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T21:37:23.120" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T21:37:23.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4840" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-13T21:37:23.120" Score="0" Body="Questions about bicycle components: wheels, bottom brackets, derailleurs, stems, handlebars, and more." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T22:10:00.393" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T22:10:00.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4841" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-13T21:40:39.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano, Inc is the largest manufacturer of bicycle components in the world for road, mountain, hybrid, and touring bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T17:27:22.297" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T17:27:22.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4842" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-13T21:40:39.793" Score="0" Body="Shimano brand bicycle components. (No need to use if Shimano is an incidental part of the question.)&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:34:02.993" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:34:02.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4843" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-13T21:43:20.277" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T21:43:20.277" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T21:43:20.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4844" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-13T21:43:20.277" Score="0" Body="D.I.Y. is an acronym for &quot;Do It Yourself&quot;. Questions here are resources for enthusiastic amateurs working on their own bicycles." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T22:10:13.870" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T22:10:13.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4153" CreationDate="2011-07-13T22:22:22.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me start by saying that May/June is the best period to visit Italy, imo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, I need to warn you that the bicycle culture in Italy is not as advanced as in other European countries, such as Denmark or Netherlands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, some useful links below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the following link, you find a description of the network of cycling paths in Italy. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicitalia.org/cakebi/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicitalia.org/cakebi/&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;(the page is in Italian, unfortunately only some of it is translated, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fiab-onlus.it/english/bicitale.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fiab-onlus.it/english/bicitale.htm&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a page about hotels, campings and B&amp;amp;Bs that are cyclists-friendly:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.albergabici.it/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.albergabici.it/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(again, a reduced English version here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.albergabici.it/albergab/ingindex.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.albergabici.it/albergab/ingindex.htm&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.: I am going to edit this answer with more info when I will have free time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1621" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T22:22:22.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4846" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-14T00:40:45.473" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T00:40:45.473" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T00:40:45.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4847" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-14T00:40:45.473" Score="0" Body="An acronym for &quot;Shimano Pedaling Dynamics&quot;, a design of clipless bicycle pedal created by Shimano, Inc. Both road and mountain variants exist as do numerous &quot;SPD-compatible&quot; designs." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T01:01:53.360" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T01:01:53.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4848" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-14T00:45:43.410" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T00:45:43.410" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T00:45:43.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4849" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-14T00:45:43.410" Score="0" Body="From the French for &quot;mixed&quot;, a step-through bicycle where the frame's top tube consists of two small, parallel tubes that start at the head tube and join the seatstay and chainstay at the dropouts.  Occasionally incorrectly used as a synonym for any kind of step-through frame." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T01:02:57.383" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T01:02:57.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4850" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-14T00:51:15.153" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T00:51:15.153" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T00:51:15.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4851" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-14T00:51:15.153" Score="0" Body="Rims and tires with ISO 630mm bead seat diameter. The former standard road bike rim and tire size, particularly in the US bike boom of the 1970's. " OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T01:03:06.433" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T01:03:06.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4852" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-14T00:53:43.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the same bead seat diameter as 700c (also ISO 622mm) road rims and tires, but typically wider and designed for off-road use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T16:40:03.217" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T16:40:03.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4853" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-14T00:53:43.933" Score="0" Body="Bicycles and components designed around 29&quot; (aka ISO 622mm) rims and tires for mountain biking use. " OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T16:40:03.230" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T16:40:03.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4854" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-14T01:02:09.433" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T01:02:09.433" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T01:02:09.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4855" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-14T01:02:09.433" Score="0" Body="Refers to ISO 559mm bead seat diameter rims and tires, the modern standard for mountain bikes, many hybrids, and small touring bikes. Tire sizes range from 26 x 1.0 to 26 x 3.6 and are printed in decimal format. A number of older American, British, and French tires are also listed as 26 x 1 1/4 to 26 x 1 3/4 in fractional notation; these refer to tires and rims of different ISO sizes." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T01:03:50.380" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T01:03:50.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4866" CreationDate="2011-07-14T02:13:38.547" Score="7" ViewCount="15243" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has been ridden 4 months / 2000 miles and is no longer completely quiet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About a month ago I noticed a whispering noise like a wire brush sliding across a cymbal. It happens on the power-down-stroke, in any/every gear, so I think it must be the 'bottom bracket' or something close to that. A noise (creaking) is now happening on both strokes (both feet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No one mentioned bearings when I asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2781&quot;&gt;How much does bike price correspond with maintenance needs?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A co-worker said it needs fixing when the pedals are 'loose' (which they aren't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it wait another 2 months / 1000 miles or so until its first regularly-scheduled twice-annual in-LBS service?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it a case of &quot;an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,&quot; and I should ask someone to maintain it a.s.a.p. before it gets (irreparably) worse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they even need maintenance, or are they just replaced sometimes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T23:14:11.787" Title="Bottom bracket making noise, should it be fixed now or can I wait until regular maintenance?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4856" CreationDate="2011-07-14T03:13:47.260" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several possible causes of noises you can get from your bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad bottom-bracket bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad pedal bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose crank arms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose bottom-bracket cartridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose chainrings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these the loose crank arm (which may be silent or may be accompanied by a creak on each stroke) is probably the one needing the most immediate attention, since riding even 10 miles with a loose crank arm is enough to destroy the crank arm and crank shaft.  So you should either check that the crank arms are tight yourself (by torquing the fixing bolts appropriately) or have a bike shop do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, I've experienced most of the above, but probably the bad (or simply dirty) pedal bearings more than anything else.  Pedal bearings seem to pick up dirt faster than any other bearing on the bike (especially when offroad or riding on packed gravel), and unless they are well sealed may need regular disassembly and regreasing.  And I've had new, sealed pedals develop noises in as little as 200 miles (though the set I have now have been fine for probably 8000 miles, knock wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have the bottom bracket cartridge on my current bike start making noise after about 5000 miles (more of an occasional click than grinding).  On disassembly the (Shimano) cartridge was found to be badly rusted (even though the bike is only left out in the rain when commuting).  Replaced it with a SS Phil Woods unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BB bearings went out on my old Nishiki after a few thousand miles, and on inspection it appeared that the cups had been poorly machined to begin with.  (This was maybe 18 years ago.)  Replaced the loose bearings with a Performance cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike with only 2000 miles on it should not need any bearing service, unless it's been seriously exposed to bad weather or other severe conditions.  But note that 2000 miles is about the expected life of a chain, and yours is probably due for replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T03:13:47.260" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4862" CreationDate="2011-07-14T07:29:04.737" Score="12" ViewCount="24586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to ride a 26&quot; mtb, but now I'm switching to a 29er. Since the volume of the tire increases, I was wondering is one 16 gram CO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; cartridge enough to inflate the tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Notes:&lt;/em&gt; The tire will be between 2.1 and 2.25 wide. Since I'm big (110 kg) I need more pressure than a lower-weight rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T04:07:52.243" LastActivityDate="2019-09-10T08:23:48.650" Title="Is a 16 grams CO2 cartridge enough to inflate a 29&quot; mountainbike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;co2&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2011-07-14T10:22:23.703" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aerozine.com.br/mercado_livre/imagens/innovations_Inflation_chart.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this chart&lt;/a&gt; which lists tyre pressure for various sizes of tyres and cartridges. It doesn't list 29 inch tyres, but with a little bit of maths and physics (and a little bit of hand-waving) I calculate that the pressure in a 29 inch tyre is going to be about 10% lower than a 26 inch tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chart says 40 psi for a 26 inch tyre, so you'd be looking at about 36 psi for a 29 inch tyre. Which is a bit on the low side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edited to include the link posted by @Grumpus27]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T23:17:37.820" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T23:17:37.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4717" CreationDate="2011-07-14T12:06:30.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this article/publicity page recently &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cowi.com/menu/NewsandMedia/News/RailwaysRoadsandAirports/Pages/Tiny-car-helps-make-big-improvements-for-cyclists.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Profile Index&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TINY CAR HELPS MAKE BIG IMPROVEMENTS FOR CYCLISTS &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bumpy bike lanes are unpleasant to ride on and pose a safety hazard for cyclists. COWI has joined forces with Dynatest Denmark in the development and marketing of a new measurement concept.&#xA;Loaded with laser sensors, blinking yellow lights, a GPS and digital camera, the little Mercedes Smart measures out bike lanes millimetre by millimetre for the bumps, potholes, tree roots and other imperfections that make riding on some bike lanes anything but smooth sailing.&#xA;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T12:06:30.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4856" CreationDate="2011-07-14T12:13:43.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bottom bracket is going, then there will probably be some play in it - you can easily check for this by holding one pedal in each hand and pushing/pulling to pivot the cranks around the bottom bracket. First try pulling both pedals away from the frame then push them both towards the frame - if you feel any movement then your bottom bracket probably needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do the same test on your pedals, which are another common source of noise from that part of the bike. Start with the pedal horizontal and twist left and right, keeping the pedal horizontal. I find pedals commonly have a little bit of play so judging it is a bit more down to experience, but too much movement means time for new pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of these tests can prove that the part is working perfectly, but finding play is a good sign that the parts are on the way out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1534" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T12:13:43.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2011-07-14T14:28:15.483" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. One 16 gram cartridge is enough to fill an average 29&quot; tire. I just tested in my Schwalbe Rocket Ron 29x2.25, and from empty it gets to about 38 psi. I run tubeless, so normal pressure at my 110kg weight is around 35-38psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a tubed setup, 38psi might be a touch low, but plenty to get you back in off the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T14:28:15.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4865" CreationDate="2011-07-14T16:46:50.923" Score="28" ViewCount="126755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking around for an old mountain bike to ride this winter (and this summer when it is wet).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just browsing around and was curious what the difference was between &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direct pull brakes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ECL9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Center-pull Cantilevers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Ku4y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;good description of both kinds of brakes&lt;/a&gt; but he does not give pros and cons.  Or suggest which are better.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T02:00:50.053" Title="Direct Pull (V-Brake) vs. Center Pull Cantilevers (pros and cons)" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4863" CreationDate="2011-07-14T16:52:20.013" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Direct-pull or &quot;V&quot; brakes are stronger, easier to set up and maintain, and are usually considered an improved technology.&#xA;Well set-up cantis are not bad, however, and the pads do last a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T16:52:20.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4863" CreationDate="2011-07-14T18:20:47.997" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason that the direct pull (V brake) was invented is that it approximates a center-pull cantilever in terms of balanced force and leverage, while not requiring that the cable be anchored at some point above the wheel.  This is important for front wheels on suspension forks, but not significant for most other uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another slight advantage of the V brake is that it doesn't generally protrude out of the profile of the bike quite as much and is thus somewhat less likely to be damaged in off-road use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither advantage is of any importance for a road bike without a suspension fork.  However, there is the problem that the two require different levers (because the cable travel length is different) and the old cantilevered levers are getting hard to find, should you break one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-01-19T04:02:04.893" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T04:02:04.893" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4856" CreationDate="2011-07-14T18:21:52.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quoted from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cartridge-bearing-type-bottom-bracket-service-bbt&quot;&gt;Park Tool site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is a fairly simple test to determine if the bottom bracket bearing is worn out. Shift the chain to the inner most rear sprockets front and rear. Drop the chain off the smallest front ring, and arrange it so it will not strike the chainrings. Spin the crank while holding the bike with one hand. If you feel an obvious rumbling or grinding feeling, the bearing are worn out and the unit should be replaced. Very worn bottom brackets will actually make a grinding noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd fix it now if you're getting these symptoms. Grinding is a sign of bicycle arthritis and is easily solved with new bearings. Bearings wear out and can lead to damage if not replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-07-14T18:29:48.677" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T18:29:48.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4863" CreationDate="2011-07-14T18:30:46.303" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;...where to begin!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So much was wrong with cantilevers and linear-pull came along and made the cycling world a happier place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This list will grow, but, as I remember, the following things were morally wrong with cantilevers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the front cable often routed via the stem on a pulley hidden inside the stem. Over time this pulley would fray the cable and the cable would break on the front brake with no external signs of anything wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless a reflector bracket or mudguard was in the way, the broken front brake cable would release the stirrup wire to then catch against the front wheel. This would cause an instant straight-over-the-handlebars disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in peace-time the arrangement was not too good, the brake adjustment depended on stem height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bikes did not use the stem to hold the front brake cable. Instead they used an extra bracket in the headset. When suspension came along a bracket had to be added to the forks to hold the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt at the end of the cable holding the yoke that connects to the straddle wire was also a bit of a problem. Typically these were setup crooked. In use the stirrup could get knocked to one side, compromising the brake balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the rear brake, the big problem on early models was how they stuck out to catch your heel. This was solved when Dia-Compe came along with the 986 to replace the 983. Shimano copied the hi-rise idea shortly thereafter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a 983:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXXqa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is the 986:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Ic1D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are talking twenty+ years ago with this 'big change' to the cantilever. There were many, many iterations to get to the linear-pull brake you have today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T18:30:46.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-14T20:19:06.760" Score="4" ViewCount="3715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 40 year old Bottecchia (entry level model) that I took for ride yesterday after letting it sit for 20 years. Just inflated the tires and oiled the chain and off I went. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires and brake pads obviously need to be replaced and I was thinking of getting some cross tires for some dirt road and short trip riding, but yesterday's ride reminded me how bad the old derailleurs were and the huge gap between gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some components had been upgraded (wheels, cotterless crank) but I'm wondering what gear clusters I can use without changing wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also open to other ideas ... other than making it a fixie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1812" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-15T04:33:53.163" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T23:25:04.800" Title="What are the possible upgrades for a 40-year-old Bottecchia 10 Speed? " Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4863" CreationDate="2011-07-14T20:21:44.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe one pro of canti's are that they tend to have more mud clearance.  I think that is one of the reasons that cyclocross bikes run them, at least until they started allowing discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T20:21:44.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4868" CreationDate="2011-07-14T21:15:24.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back 40 years ago there was the whole French/Italian/English divide in bike standards, so it's really a crap shoot.  You might find that the rear hub takes &quot;standard&quot; old-style freewheels, but you're limited to 5-speed unless you put in a longer axle (not out of the question) or find a &quot;compact&quot; 6/7 speed freewheel (likely scarce as hen's teeth).  I suppose you could put in a new BB cartridge and have 3 chainrings, but the BB standards were the least &quot;standard&quot; of anything back then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T21:15:24.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4736" CreationDate="2011-07-15T01:00:56.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on the friend who you're riding with. If it's a friend who is a casual cyclist, there's probably little you can do. But, if it's a friend who is actively interested in cycling, there are options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neil has some good ideas in his answer. I will take the track of the cyclist's body. I'm a big fan of training the &quot;engine&quot; where the engine is the cyclist. Climbing takes 2 things. Energy and muscles. So, add some calories just before that hill climb. Energy gels or cookies usually work or any other food that provide immediate glucose for the muscles. The muscles take a while. In order to get the muscles to a climbing mode, one must train them. In as little as 2 - 3 weeks of interval training, muscles will be a lot happier when climbing hills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my favorite rides starts off at 13 m/44 ft and ascends to 1237 m/4061 ft. It's 14 miles/22.5 km. The best part is the view at the top. Six snow-capped volcanoes, with Mt Hood in touching distance. The second best part is the ride down. (For me this is a 60 mile ride since I ride out there and back home.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, if you can get your friends to work-out their cycling muscles, it might improve their reticence to climb hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-07-15T01:16:54.620" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T01:16:54.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4868" CreationDate="2011-07-15T04:08:12.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottechia frames from that period use an italian threaded bottom bracket. I assume also down tube friction shifters? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is that you can upgrade the bike all the way to current standards, if you are willing to spend the money. But it is not what most would consider to be cost effective to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrading the rear freewheel beyond a 7 speed cluster isn't likely to work, without new wheels, and if you only upgrade to a 7-speed freewheel, you will need to change your chain to match. Changing your chain requires changing your derailleurs, both of them, preferably, although you might get away with leaving the front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you spend the money to go that far, a whole new bike kit, which should be possible to make work on the frame, isn't that different in price, depending on your choices. A SRAM Apex Kit should cost around $1500 dollars, including new basic wheels, and current standard wide range gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want to keep the original wheels, you will be very limited in how far you can change things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T04:08:12.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4874" CreationDate="2011-07-15T06:06:36.113" Score="9" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's one long road that I bike on that has a decent bike lane, but the speed limit for cars is 50 mph. Needless to say, they drive 60+. Often I find myself being shaken or rattled by the turbulent wake of a car that has just sped by. This is not severe enough for me to lose balance, but I always fear that I might. These fears are amplified when there is a gutter by the edge of the road, because if I waver, the wheel might slip in and throw me off balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I realize that there is nothing I can do to change physics - fast cars are going to cause this effect. But mentally or physically, as a biker, how can I deal with this? Is this just a matter of confidence in biking on such roads or do you brace yourself for it if you sense a car coming up behind you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1714" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-15T06:09:49.913" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T18:13:59.470" Title="How to cope with being rattled by the wake of a fast car?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2011-07-15T06:19:23.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this the right road to use?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, you might consider avoiding this road, or at least certain parts of it. Are there areas with more traffic? Narrower lanes? See if there's a way around those sections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Visibility&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't already, you could also work on making yourself and your bike more visible to drivers. Consider wearing a safety vest. More information on visibility in these questions: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2488/8&quot;&gt;Is fluorescent clothing effective?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/296/8&quot;&gt;How can I make my bike (and myself) visible at night?&lt;/a&gt;. (Much of the advice in the second question also applies during the day.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anticipating the cars &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; they pass&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to anticipate when a car will be passing would help. Are you using a mirror? If you know when a car is getting close, it's sometimes possible to time passing a grate or other obstacle so that you won't be passed by a car at the same time. And knowing when the car will pass will also help you compensate for the car's wake.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T06:19:23.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2011-07-15T06:51:49.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a purely physical standpoint, the only way you will lose balance or fall from the situation described, is by overreacting to the car passing, and causing the fall yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are large trucks at high speeds, there is a very small possibility that you could be in just the wrong place, and the small movement of the front wheel caused by the truck's turbulence could push you into a crack, or something and cause a fall. However, in 20 years of riding, I've never even heard of that happening to anyone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some ways, yes, this is a matter of you being confident in your skill on the bike. That confidence comes with time, and I think that as you continue to ride, and continue to feel the effect of the car's wake, and continue to remain upright and in control, you will gain that confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I see as dangerous to you in this situation is your fear. If you allow that (reasonable) fear to case you to overreact, flinch, wince, or what have you, then you could lose control of the bike and crash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel that you are afraid of this situation to that level, then consider picking a more relaxing route to ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be more comfortable, less dangerous because you will be less afraid, and you will simply enjoy riding more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't take offense that I am discussing these fears openly. It is not intended to be in any way. Everyone has them, and the best way to deal with them is to get them in the open where you can think through them rationally. Mostly, this lessens the power of fear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Neil said, anticipation of the movements of cars and other objects around you is your best defense against both excessive turbulence, and the possibility of overreacting to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-15T09:12:21.307" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T09:12:21.307" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2011-07-15T09:10:23.417" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like an unpleasant road to ride on, I'm sure you would use a different route if one was available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can feel the slipstream, to the extent that it moves your bike around, things are passing to close. Paradoxically you may find that by riding further from the curb, passing vehicles will leave you more room. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People tend to leave as much room between themselves and you as you give yourself between you and the curb. More importantly if you ride hard against the curb, you are out of the area that drivers are paying attentions to, you become part of the background, invisible, cars will pass without having to move over, the car behind them wont see you, or notice the car in front move to pass you and so on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this may sound odd, its fairly mainstream &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicular_cycling&quot;&gt;Vehiclular Cycling&lt;/a&gt;, . If you are in the UK there's an excellent book &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclecraft.co.uk/&quot;&gt;Cyclecraft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1689" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T09:10:23.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2011-07-15T09:38:15.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a rearview mirror if you don't have one already. This will allow you to anticipate better, and with some practice you can learn to compensate for the wake by slightly leaning away from the car just as the car passes you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have cycled around new zealand where all you get is highways. Log and sheep trucks are an absolute horror when they pass at speed on narrow sections. I even got sucked onto the road a few times in the wake of a truck. After I got a rearview mirror I was able to time leaning away from the truck at the moment the wake washed over me so I could prevent that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, having the rearview mirror meant I was more relaxed on my bike because I could see without looking over my shoulder if the truck driver had noticed me and was staying off of the shoulder. (which sometimes was not the case, but that is a different story).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T09:38:15.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2011-07-15T11:03:55.017" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, a rear view mirror helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I frequently cycle on the shoulder of a highway with a 65mph speed limit (which is to say that many are doing 75).  The shoulder is fairly wide, but unfortunately broken up enough that only the 3-4 feet nearest the roadway are usable in many areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel reasonably safe -- only an occasional truck, or (for some reason worse) a large bus will &quot;suck&quot; the bike to any significant degree (and having a helmet mirror helps enormously with anticipating this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, unfortunately, it's just not enjoyable (and not only because it's a slight uphill grade for 6 of the 10 miles).  You have to be constantly on your guard, and noise wears you down, if nothing else.  It's worth it to take a different route if you have the time and endurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the road I'm talking about: &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&amp;amp;ll=44.028857,-92.615981&amp;amp;spn=0.099232,0.21492&amp;amp;z=12&amp;amp;layer=c&amp;amp;cbll=44.028857,-92.615981&amp;amp;panoid=gJHcf2Pvuqp8B7fjnwIBzA&amp;amp;cbp=12,103.38,,0,0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&amp;amp;ll=44.028857,-92.615981&amp;amp;spn=0.099232,0.21492&amp;amp;z=12&amp;amp;layer=c&amp;amp;cbll=44.028857,-92.615981&amp;amp;panoid=gJHcf2Pvuqp8B7fjnwIBzA&amp;amp;cbp=12,103.38,,0,0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The shoulder at that randomly-picked point is in a bit better condition than average, and it doesn't show any traffic, which suggests the shots were taken about 5AM on a Sunday morning.  &quot;Normal&quot; traffic is a vehicle every 10 seconds most of the day, and virtually bumper to bumper at rush hour.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of more suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you haven't done so recently, get your bike tuned up. Wheels that are just a little wonky, shifters that don't respond reliably, even a handlebar or seat that's slightly askew -- all can &quot;upset your game&quot; and put you more on edge to begin with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop down a gear and pick up your cadence. At a higher cadence you tend to wobble less, and psychologically you're less likely to be spooked by the whoosh of a vehicle, since the rhythm sort of carries you through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-07-15T19:19:51.280" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T19:19:51.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4880" CreationDate="2011-07-15T13:59:35.530" Score="3" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ends of my rim tape are about 1mm apart, but the spoke holes are covered. Is this ok, or should I pull it off and start with a fresh roll?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://db.tt/17iPgvA/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;picture&quot;&gt;Here's a picture.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-01T16:54:59.380" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T11:59:28.117" Title="Rim tape doesn't quite meet, but covers all spoke holes - OK?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4879" CreationDate="2011-07-15T15:01:42.253" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is usually ok. as long as it has strong enough adhesive to stay in place. It's better to overlap it, of course, but as long as the spoke holes are covered it should be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bigger issue is that usually, when the tape comes up short, it means that roll was designed for a 26&quot; wheel, and is going on a 700c rim. If that is the case, make sure the tape is not too wide, because if it is, it prevents the bead of the tire from seating, by filling some of the space in the beadlock on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it curls up on to the side walls of the rim at all, that is not a good option. There are different widths for 26&quot; tape, so even if it is 26&quot;, it can still be the correct width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-03-24T11:59:28.117" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T11:59:28.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4879" CreationDate="2011-07-15T15:02:11.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine - the primary purpose of rim tape is to protect from the spoke holes. If you are at all concerned that there's some rough in that small gap, a small peice of duct tape to bridge the gap would probably suffice (when isn't duct tape the answer?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't waste a roll of tape for the sake of a single millimetre!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T15:02:11.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4879" CreationDate="2011-07-15T15:34:06.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should be OK.  I wouldn't advise duck tape, as it will tend to make a mess, and will eventually dry up and move around anyway.  Hockey tape would work fine to fill the gap, if you feel the need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T15:34:06.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2011-07-15T15:41:20.560" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of more suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you haven't done so recently, get your bike tuned up.  Wheels that are just a little wonky, shifters that don't respond reliably, even a handlebar or seat that's slightly askew -- all can &quot;upset your game&quot; and put you more on edge to begin with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop down a gear and pick up your cadence.  At a higher cadence you tend to wobble less, and psychologically you're less likely to be spooked by the whoosh of a vehicle, since the rhythm sort of carries you through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T15:41:20.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4886" CreationDate="2011-07-15T18:09:14.667" Score="3" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll move to Redmond, WA in a couple months and since I was about to buy a bike, I have a few questions to see if I still should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to ride all year long for both commute/recreation (I like XC and trail)? I'll probably be living just a few miles away from work. Is it too cold on winter? I've been there a couple times, and know Redmond's breeze/rain (and the fact that its there 200+ days a year).. does it make it to cold to ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to ride a lot, but haven't done so in a long while, and I recently started wanting to ride a LOT! Would it be worth to buy a bike here (im in Guadalajara, Mexico) or should I wait the few months and buy a bike over there? I was thinking on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/mx/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?spid=51627&amp;amp;scid=1000&amp;amp;scname=Mountain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Rockhopper Comp 29er Int&quot;&gt;Rockhopper Comp 29er Int&lt;/a&gt; (which has pretty much the same specs as the american &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?spid=52810&amp;amp;scid=1000&amp;amp;scname=Mountain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RockHopper 29er Pro&lt;/a&gt;, which i can get here for about 1500 with a paint job that I absolutely loved (similar to the one in the link but with green instead of gold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per suggestion I add that by too cold I mean your throat hurting when breathing, stiffiness on joints (specially hand, even with gloves), ice burn, not being able to ride without goggles, etc. oh and a little bit of water is ok, but not getting to the office completely soaked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1673" LastEditorUserId="1673" LastEditDate="2011-07-15T21:29:59.207" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T03:23:09.497" Title="Redmond bikers: Can you ride all year long?" Tags="&lt;regional&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;weather&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2011-07-15T18:12:30.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention that you do actually have a cycle lane, it is just that the cars have that wake affect rather than sheer-abject-terror effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you tell yourself that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The drivers in those vehicles are professional drivers or very experienced and know how to drive better than those mums on the school run that have screaming kids, are half asleep and are trying to text-and-drive. This may not be the case, but you can imagine it to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wake effect is not slowing you down, in fact it is helping you with your forward motion. Therefore, instead of it being terrifying, it is merely something you need to get more of. When that big truck goes by you want to get nearer to it rather than further away to get maximum benefit. Again, this is just what you can tell yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relax your upper body. Keep your thumbs on the top of the bars (if you have straight handlebars). This will keep you better prepared for when you hit something on the road, e.g. a discarded bit of truck tyre that you did not quite see. Stay seated and pedal with your legs (rather than your arms - you know what I mean).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't wear a helmet. The anecdotal study of a few years ago showed that cyclists with helmets get given less room. Besides, helmets are only tested at 0 mph falling off a bike onto a fluffy pillow, with a 60 m.p.h. car RTA they have no effect at all, except maybe to strangle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the cycle-lane slopes off to the side then you don't want to slip off that in the wet and tumble into the main highway. That would be jolly unpleasant for the motorists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear the internationally recognised hi-viz cycling clothing of shame. I know it would be  so much nicer to wear jeans and a black T-shirt but the hi-viz clothing to the E.U. standards really does the job. Well, according to 3M and statistics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whatever you do, don't get that rear mirror. Instead get a pair of Joo Janta 200 Super-Chromatic Peril Sensitive Sunglasses, which had been specially designed to help people develop a relaxed attitude to danger. At the first hint of trouble they turn totally black and thus prevent you from seeing anything that might alarm you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T18:12:30.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4884" CreationDate="2011-07-15T18:56:46.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;...just speaking up for the Local Bike Shop - if you are moving to Redmond permanently then it may make sense to have a bike with a warranty and the support of the LBS for when/if it goes wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider the mudguards situation - I know they are unfashionable but they are handy for the commute. Since Specialized bikes are designed for sunny California where nobody could ever imagine needing mudguards, you may want to also post a question on what people recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will only be cold if you get clothing that is not up to the job. You know the drill - baselayers, as many layers as you need on top and a breathable jacket. Overshoes and neoprene gloves optional...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T18:56:46.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4884" CreationDate="2011-07-15T20:04:16.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you absolutely can commute bike year round. Even at it's worst the Puget Sound's weather is relatively mild.  Though there are many cloudy and rainy days, the majority of them are a light drizzle and 40 degrees Fahrenheit.  A good rainjacket, wool socks, and fenders on your bike are basically adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XC and trail riding is also definitely possible year round, but have to love mud.  So much mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T20:04:16.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4884" CreationDate="2011-07-15T20:05:19.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Portland, Oregon, and formerly Seattle. The Pacific NW climate is similar between here and Redmond and I ride year round. It actually is seldom &quot;frigid&quot;, but often cool/coldish and wet. The rain is more significant than the cold; so you want to be prepared to deal with rain on a regular basis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for trail and cross-country riding, because of all the rain, you'll be slogging through mud a lot during the rainy season. (In fact some trails in parks and other public lands close in the mud season.) Riding on roads, commuting, paved routes is fine as long as you have the right set-up in terms of clothing and the bike itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your edit about the cold...it's rarely that cold West of the Cascades in the Pacific NW. But, there are cold snaps lasting a week or two when Arctic air moves in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I don't have an opinion about your bike choice, but matthew does have a good point about warranty and service by an LBS. And the Seattle area is home to quite a few reputable bike shops.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-16T09:40:26.677" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T09:40:26.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4884" CreationDate="2011-07-15T20:12:16.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Redmond is a great biking community - there is the Burke Gilman trail which goes around Lake Washington at 40 miles.  Just get brakes that work well wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T20:12:16.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4891" CreationDate="2011-07-15T22:22:11.470" Score="4" ViewCount="4211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just bought a new fine ultegra chain for 10 speed road race bike. This is actually the first new chain for this not so old bike. I am a fan of statistics, measuring power with a power unit on my time trial bike, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's focus on this worn chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It ran for about 1000km, so worn you nearly can do a 270-360 degree bow with it. How much effect are you losing between a completely new chain and a worn but (which is the point of comparison) accurately cleaned and re-oiled chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, look at a cleaned oiled chain, fitting well with the current sprockets and not skipping cogs. Where is the power going away against a new firm, chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I measure?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can I proof any other important winnings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And (which I may have to point out) together with which kind of use.. I mean, the differences in a low-efficient 200km tour may be negligible compared to a 30km Time Trial where one may average 350 watt in 40 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1202" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-07-16T03:50:22.173" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T10:56:28.040" Title="What's the loss of effective output, with a worn chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4890" CreationDate="2011-07-15T22:46:52.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This extensive IHPVA article about chain drive efficiency&lt;/a&gt; shows a model of how you might empirically test the losses, and describes the efficiencies of a new chain. Their test suggests that lubrication and chainline matter very little, while chain tension is of significant importance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T22:46:52.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4890" CreationDate="2011-07-15T23:09:55.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a practical standpoint I suspect you're losing very little efficiency with a moderately worn chain.  However, a more severly worn chain (usually at 2-3 times the distance you have on yours) will begin to cause abnormal wear on the sprockets, ultimately damaging them to the point where sprocket replacement is required.  And of course, beyond a certain point the chain will skip and shift poorly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you were to measure very carefully you probably could detect some slight additional friction due to the increasingly poor fit between chain and cog tooth.  The teeth are very carefully designed to engage the chain evenly, and a worn chain will cause additional friction as the chain slides onto the drive sprocket or off the driven sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-07-16T10:56:28.040" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T10:56:28.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4856" CreationDate="2011-07-15T23:14:11.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't assume that it's the BB. When you press down on the pedals, you're actually putting stress on many different parts of the bike, and any one of them could be making noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your description of the sound makes me think of the chain. Try lubing the chain, and see if the noise goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T23:14:11.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4890" CreationDate="2011-07-16T07:16:36.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only significant loss of efficiency comes at the point wear the wear causes the chain to skip, in terms of power efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, efficiency(time) lost to poor shifts and delays of that sort are a risk. But until the point where damage is affecting your ride is beyond the point where the chain has begun damaging the cassette and chain rings, and so your loss of financial efficiency comes much earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T07:16:36.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4884" CreationDate="2011-07-16T07:30:38.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the exception of the occasional snowstorm, and I mean very occasional, you should have little trouble commuting by bike year round in Redmond. In addition, the few times there are weather issues, the Public Transportation system is quite thorough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the snowy weather is so rare, the city often shuts down completely when it snows, especially on the west side of Seattle. So often, when the weather is bad, you won't be expected to work, unless you are in a &quot;vital personnel&quot; position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the asnwers above included this info too. &quot;&quot;...but Matthew does have a good point about warranty and service by an LBS. And the Seattle area is home to quite a few reputable bike shops.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are great shops, in fact. And, if as I suspect you're going to work for Microsoft, they will pitch in on your purchase if you buy in the US. Used to be a $300 bonus, might have changed in the last 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T07:30:38.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4899" CreationDate="2011-07-16T20:22:57.957" Score="5" ViewCount="30782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a whole new front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been around some of the bike shops in my city and found that the cheapest whole new wheel (wheel, tire, tube, tape) is about £55.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also asked at the shop I bought my bike about getting a like for like replacement (i.e. the same make of wheel that I am replacing) and the guy helping me said that would cost about £100, probably a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The increase in cost is because the hub (sorry for my lack of expertise) is aluminium and the rims are double walled rims (which I think are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_wheel#Rim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sprint rims&lt;/a&gt; judging from the picture in the wikipedia article). He explained that double walled rims significantly increase the strength of the wheel, which is important when hitting potholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hybrid bike, and ride almost entirely on road. I currently ride about 54 miles a week, and I'm hoping to increase that to nearly 90 once I'm fit enough, so I guess that's low to medium usage. The roads around here are fairly potholey, but I manage to avoid the holes most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the bike I currently have: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/escape.2/7090/43391/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/escape.2/7090/43391/&lt;/a&gt; (without the front wheel!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the above, is the more expensive wheel worth the extra money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1818" LastEditorUserId="1818" LastEditDate="2011-07-17T17:41:55.993" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T10:30:55.693" Title="Are double walled rims worth the money?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4896" CreationDate="2011-07-16T20:40:54.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A double walled rim is significantly stronger, assuming all else is equal. Only you can decide if your budget allows for it, or it's worth it to you, but it's not hype. They are better wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, a bad pothole, hit at any speed, will destroy the strongest wheel available. You need to learn to avoid obstacles like that, or ride them smoothly when avoidance isn't possible. Or you'll buy a lot of wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know you will hit unavoidable obstacles, the stronger wheel will last longer, but will fail at some point also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double walls are mechanically stronger due to additional bracing between the sidewalls. Not a thicker sidewall... See photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double walled rim:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wz0Sm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Double wall rim&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single walled rim:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UqRPK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: Your current wheel is double walled, if the link to your bike is accurate. I definitely wouldn't recommend getting a downgrade...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-20T18:05:54.963" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T18:05:54.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4896" CreationDate="2011-07-16T21:03:22.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For you, on your mileage, are definitely a worthy investment. Before explaining why I must correct you on your &lt;em&gt;low to medium usage&lt;/em&gt; comment - in the UK the average cyclist manages to average all of 17 miles per week. Maybe you are not part of the high-miler club but you can fairly claim better than average usage when amongst lycra-clad folk and high usage when with civilians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your question, the problem with single-walled rims is what happens to them when they wear out. Rims only wear out on bikes with brakes that work on the rim, so maybe this point might not apply. However, with single-walled rims, when the brakes wear through the rim, the problem is that the rim deforms, to bulge out (due to the pressure of the tyre). This can result in a blowout, although in practice this is a rare occurrence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, with the double-walled rim, if it wears completely through, the inner wall is still strong enough to hold it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some single-walled rims with a wear indicator on them. This is a groove that should be visible in the side wall. When this is worn off and no longer visible it is new wheel time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for pot-holes, really any rim should be up to the job as it is the tyre and not the rim that takes the impact. If you damage the rims by hitting anything (even a kerb) then that is due to not enough air in the tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the tyres at the right pressure is also important for puncture resistance and tyre longevity. The best plan is to invest in a track-pump with gauge and to check the tyres fortnightly. You can stretch this out to monthly, however, having tyres inflated at less than the side wall stated value also means you are going slower, not really with a more comfy ride, just slower. Stretch your budget to get a decent track-pump if you have not got one already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other top tip for looking after your wheels is to clean the rims. It doesn't matter if you clean nothing else on the bike, but do clean the rims. The build up of dirt and grime works as an abrasive paste that also makes your brake pads wear away quickly. To clean them is only a five-minute job, any damp cloth will do - hold the cloth against the braking surfaces and spin the wheels around. Maybe build this into your fortnightly pressure-check routine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are untold treatments for rims (e.g. anodizing), different sections (e.g. aero and box), different ways of holding the spokes (e.g. eyelets), different ways to do the join (e.g. welded or with an extra bit riveted in), sidewall finishings (including the wear indicator) and materials (variants of aluminium or ultra-lame steel). The options are far too many to make a sensible choice, however, if there is one thing you should fork out for, then that is the double-wall for the safety reasons that will only come into play a long way down the line when wear takes it's toll. That is what you are investing in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally the double-walled rim is a different product than the single-wall version, with heat-treatment and other process that make the extra money worth the while. You also can get decent eyelets on them and better joins, i.e. without a rough seam. The extra lightening of the wallet for them may be painful at the time but this will soon pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T21:03:22.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4896" CreationDate="2011-07-16T22:26:26.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;sprint rim&amp;quot;, as described in that article, is a &amp;quot;tubular&amp;quot; rim -- intended for a glue-on tire (which maybe your grandfather saw once).  You'd know if you used glue-on tires (and you wouldn't be complaining about spending &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; 100 pounds for a new wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than my old Schwinn (Schwinn had double-walled steel &amp;quot;tubular&amp;quot; [in a different sense] rims on most bikes until maybe 1975) I don't think I've ever had a double-walled rim.  My rims have always been extruded aluminum ones more or less along the lines of the &amp;quot;Rim&amp;quot; picture near the top of that article.  Such a rim usually has the hollow area similar to what's shown (which makes it &amp;quot;double&amp;quot; in one sense, I suppose), though the height of the hollow area may vary from maybe 3mm to 20-30.  These rims don't (as a rule) have double sidewalls, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the &amp;quot;sprint rim&amp;quot; apparently sort of looked like what you have now, I suspect you have an extruded rim where the hollow area is fairly tall and with a triangular cross-section.  Such rims are fairly popular in medium-level road bikes, I gather, partly because they &amp;quot;look sexy&amp;quot;, but in addition they probably have a slight advantage in terms of dent resistance, though mostly in wheels with low spoke counts where the spokes aren't able to do the job as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't say what width tire you run.  I've never seen rim sidewalls wear enough that their structural integrity was threatened, but I've always run tires wider than 30mm.  I suppose some of the narrower, more lightly built rims may be in danger of wearing through (though it seems to me that a thicker sidewall would be of more advantage for the weight than a double wall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do you need a whole new front rim?  Did both rim and hub get damaged somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Added&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little Googling shows that many refer to the box cross-section extruded rim (which I believe is normal on any medium-priced standard rim) as &amp;quot;double walled&amp;quot;.  This has nothing to do with the sidewall being doubled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T22:33:22.693" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4901" CreationDate="2011-07-17T01:04:44.467" Score="5" ViewCount="5336" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are not dealing with carbon, is torque relevant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen it mentioned on the hundreds of answers here, or the hundreds of how-tos I've read elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just tighten everything &quot;hard enough&quot;? If not, what's the best way to find the torque specs for old parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-17T02:05:23.810" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T05:01:42.950" Title="Is torque relevant for steel/aluminium? Where do I find torque specs?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4900" CreationDate="2011-07-17T01:34:19.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; that tells you everything you want to know about torquing bike parts. It's by the recognized leader in manifacturing bicycle specialty tools, including one of the more popular torque wrenches. (Park Tool)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-17T04:52:42.330" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T04:52:42.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4884" CreationDate="2011-07-17T03:23:09.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned you don't want to get to the office all wet - I'll assume you don't have shower facilities or don't want to regularly shift your shower to close to work (many commuters ride as it and only shower once they reach a gym or club close to the workplace)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes the choice of bike much less important - you won't be hammering the miles so anything with good fenders, a chain guard and racks will not slow you down much at a slower speed (11 to 14 mph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it sounds obvious, but do stop by several bike shops and ask who to talk to in town about bike commuting. Bike shops will quickly steer you to the ones that have the experience to let you know exactly what clothing works, and where to spend your money based on the local conditions. Commuters are ideal customers as they will over time spend far more than recreational riders - a steady diet of maintenance, consumables and upgrades is far better for businesses than the occasional big splurge on a frame. These professionals are there to help you find the joy of powering your commute. Make use of them :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biking builds body heat, so you won't be cold - even when it's wet once you get the right clothes. Do buy your bike in town - they will stock more appropriate bikes and you will be feeding the local ecosystem with good will with your investment there. Don't turn down a cheap bike - but I would avoid buying one before you move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T03:23:09.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4900" CreationDate="2011-07-17T03:27:59.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While torque specs do definitely still matter with steel and aluminum parts, they are not nearly as sensitive to it as carbon parts are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We often mount an aluminum stem on a carbon steerer tube, or handlebar. It is the torque spec for the aluminum stem which matters most, but the bar will also have max torque spec, and the parts used must allow the same torque range values, or they may not be used together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool link&lt;/a&gt;  provided by Daniel R. Hicks is an excellent resource for learning more detailed concepts about torque, as it relates to bicycles, and finding the exact values for a particular part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern bike parts have the torque printed on the clamping portion of the part as well, somewhere near the bolt/s that the torque is referring to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-17T04:27:21.350" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T04:27:21.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4949" CreationDate="2011-07-17T04:20:00.677" Score="15" ViewCount="5892" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best bicycle lock on the market, defined by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Best security&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easiest usability when securing your bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easiest method of transport&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightest without other compromises&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, what do you think of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1051734209/tigr-titanium-lock-as-cool-as-your-bike&quot;&gt;lock design below&lt;/a&gt;? Secure? Transportable? Would you use it if you had it? Is there something else that you would prefer, or something about it that would keep you from using it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a way to convince my roadie friends that securing a bike on a long ride for lunch stops/etc is doable and practical. The weight is a killer, and they just won't buy it. That's also why I'm not just doing something like one of the Kryptonite Chains or a U lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question was inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1051734209/tigr-titanium-lock-as-cool-as-your-bike&quot;&gt;this Kickstarter project&lt;/a&gt;. No relation to me. I just think it's cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T10:09:00.457" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T11:27:48.443" Title="What is the best bicycle lock on the market?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2011-07-17T05:50:57.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you spend any time working in a bike workshop then you get to learn what bike-locks are vulnerable 'in the wild' and you also get to learn what bike locks are removable with 'special tools', e.g. the bolt-cutters with five-foot long handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The truth is that a surprising amount of affordable D-locks are do-able in the wild and everything else can be removed in seconds with proper tools. This is particularly shocking with those cable locks with the outer steel protection as they appear tough, but, with the big bolt-cutters are no more problematic than a cable-tie is to pliers - snip and you are done. Another tragedy are the plastic-coated multi-strands-of-steel cables - with the world's bluntest hacksaw you can get through them very easily because the plastic coating acts like a guide for the saw. This approach takes longer than using the key, but, for the thief with a big van and lots of railings to collect bikes from, he (and it is never a she...) will be able to get those bikes unlocked quicker than their respective owners can. That is the scary reality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this question is a bit like asking 'what is the best colour' - there is no exact answer. There are many factors - you have got to be able to carry the lock being the prime one. In the Netherlands the general idea is to carry a big ugly lock, more akin to what people use for a motorbike or to lock the gates of a factory. However, in the Netherlands there are lots of tooled up thieves, the terrain is flat and the big-ugly lock can be left on the railings at the workplace, i.e. not carried back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I use a £4.99 cable lock with combination numbers set to my birthday. That appears as lame as it gets but I am unlikely to have problems should I lose my keys and the weakness of the cable matters not to the guy with bolt-cutters. I never leave my bike unlocked for '2 seconds' whilst I nip into the shop for a pint of milk which I used to do when it would take me a minute or two to get the D-lock out of the bag, take my gloves off, find my keys, look for some sensible street furniture and ... you get the idea. The always available, always in use £4.99 cable lock is 100% effective against the casual thief whereas, in practical world, the expensive D-lock is not. Convenience matters and it clearly need not come with a premium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The D-lock still comes out (an evil Abus Extreme) when I go to the West End to watch a play (such an everyday occurrence) and need that extra security. The £4.99 lock still gets used in this situation for keeping the wheel or seat on, the D-lock attaches the frame/back wheel to street furniture. This gives me the peace of mind that I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my vote is for the £4.99 cable lock with combination. Setting the combination to my birthday seems a bit stupidly obvious, but, since not even my own mother remembers my birthday, I think that anyone that guesses the number can have my bike. I would be flattered if they guessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3pUR3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second vote would be for the Abus 'Partner Pack' locks. These consist of a D-lock and a cable-lock that both work from the same key. You can take one or the other locks out depending on the security requirement, or you can take both out. You can also lend one of them to a newbie cycling friend that is not with a good lock. The D-lock comes with a 'sold secure' rating that allegedly means something to insurance companies, not that I personally believe in insurance for bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XvWoj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T05:50:57.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2011-07-17T10:39:07.253" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some years ago, Bicycling magazine did a shootout on available locks and the Kryptonite &quot;New York Chain&quot; came out on top.  Unfortunately, it weighs more than many bikes and is not easy to carry either.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fine if you can leave it where you lock your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm with the police department at a major university, and we have a program through Kryptonite where we give the kids a (heavily subsidized) Kryptonite U-lock for a mere 20 bucks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Over the 30 years I've been here, we've had only a handful of these locks defeated. Most all the bikes we have stolen (lots...) are locked with the sort of cable shown above.  The thief uses a rather small bolt cutter and removes it more rapidly than you could by using the combination.&#xA;The U-locks are easy to carry, not overly heavy, and offer a &quot;good&quot; level of security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything can be defeated with the right tools, time, and opportunity.  Deny the thief these things and you have a better chance of hanging on to your bike.&#xA;Or....Buy a beater and save your nice bike for weekend rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastEditorUserId="1297" LastEditDate="2011-07-17T10:47:43.323" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T10:47:43.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2011-07-17T15:16:42.843" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abus-bordo.com/html_en/bikelock_bordo_lite.html&quot;&gt;http://www.abus-bordo.com/html_en/bikelock_bordo_lite.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's heavy, but very strong. Unlike U-locks, it is easy to carry on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update : video showing operation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57zc9kregqs&amp;amp;feature=related&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57zc9kregqs&amp;amp;feature=related&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty simple : unfold like an accordion, wrap around frame, front wheel, and some &quot;urban furniture&quot;, lock. It only takes a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short version is a bit short. The long version is ... longer but heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weak point of U-locks is the U-lock holder which is always made of crap and will break at the worst possible time, like hitting a pothole while going fast. That happened to me. It's annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one has a neat holder, very easy to use, doesn't fall off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6StNOX_654&quot;&gt;open with a pencil&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaking a good U-lock requires a scissor jack (easy to find, you probably got one in your car) or some lock-picking, or an angle grinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is immune to the scissor jack, and very hard to saw, so you'd need an angle grinder (VERY noisy) or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiLSj84sGPQ&quot;&gt;specially machined key&lt;/a&gt; (I can't believe this age-old lockpicking technique still works)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more info and tests of many locks, check this french site :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycode.org/html/pg_htm/antivols.php&quot;&gt;http://bicycode.org/html/pg_htm/antivols.php&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;http://bicycode.org/html/telechd/antivols-testsFUBicy.pdf&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test results are in the PDF (updated yearly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 star : resists discrete attempts using tools not larger than 30cm, corresponds to thieves operating in public&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 stars : resists much less discrete attempts using tools not larger than 75 cm, and a much longer time &quot;allowed&quot; for the attemps. Corresponds to thieves operating in at night with noone to see them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The test report has weights and security level for many locks, I hope you find that useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Best security&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope, but best security means 2 locks which need 2 different tools (like a frame lock and a U or bordo)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Easiest usability when securing your bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Easiest method of transport&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes definitely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lightest without other compromises&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it is heavy as hell (like a U) but does that matter a lot for the daily rides to work or groceries ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2011-07-17T21:23:04.743" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T21:23:04.743" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4896" CreationDate="2011-07-17T16:19:44.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extruded aluminum double wall rims are pretty much standard now (they are very much stronger than the cheap single wall rims).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you post a link on the bike you currently have ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap yet good quality wheel :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=1;product=900;page=1;menu=1000,2,140,17;mid=0;pgc=0;orderby=2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=1;product=900;page=1;menu=1000,2,140,17;mid=0;pgc=0;orderby=2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK - it is not a top quality bike, but still a good one that should last quite a bit with proper care (cleaning, lubing, changing chain when it's time, etc). Probably more than 10.000 km. Much much better than budget bikes that are totally destroyed after 1000-2000 km. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it makes sense to put a good quality 50€ wheel on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, I just bought a wheel for 100€, it has a Shimano 3N80 dynamo (which is expensive), excellent quality spokes, and an very tough rim designed for loaded touring (forgot the name).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically in bike gear there are three broad &quot;zones&quot; :&#xA;- cheap crap&#xA;- reasonable price, reasonable quality&#xA;- expensive stuff whose purpose is mainly to shave off some weight or survive extreme conditions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without dynamo, you can get a good quality wheel for 50€ if you shop around. Don't spend 100 quid, it's not necessary. But don't spend 20 quid, you'll get crap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2011-07-17T22:49:49.257" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T22:49:49.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4911" CreationDate="2011-07-17T17:23:15.050" Score="3" ViewCount="3767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been experiencing a lot of flats lately (proportional to the increase in time/distance I have been doing), so I am thinking of adding a tube protector (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slime.com/product/211/Slime-Tube-Protectors.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one of these&lt;/a&gt;) to each tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this alter rolling resistance or just add weight to the wheel? I'm not sure what goes into rolling resistance aside from tire material and pressure. I expect a slight slow-down, but I'm not sure what to expect. I'm willing to trade slower speed for the time fixing flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T08:45:59.023" Title="Do tube protectors increase rolling resistance or just add weight?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4910" CreationDate="2011-07-17T18:58:19.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It likely depends a lot on your tire pressure.  For high-pressure tires the liner just adds to the stiffness of the tire and might actually reduce rolling resistance slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For lower pressure tires, the liner must flex and, to a degree, slide against the tire and tube with every revolution, increasing internally dissipated energy and hence rolling resistance.  But the effect would be slight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better solution is to use Kevlar (or equivalent) belted tires.  These have about 10x the puncture resistance of standard tires, have negligible effect on rolling resistance, and are much easier to deal with than the separate liner.  But of course they're 30-50% more expensive, and hard to find in certain sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NB: Don't confuse &quot;Kevlar belted&quot; tires with &quot;Kevlar bead&quot; tires -- Kevlar bead is used in folding tires, some of which are Kevlar belted and some not.  And I personally find folding tires a PITA to install the first time -- though some people love them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T18:58:19.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4919" CreationDate="2011-07-17T23:06:25.983" Score="43" ViewCount="34690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in the UK and I expect my front brake lever to be operated by my right hand. However, I recently went on a friend's bike that had the brakes 'back to front', which would be the 'right way round' for people in Europe, North America and everywhere else that drives on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am left-handed and therefore used to finding things designed to be best operated with the right-hand, e.g. the controls on a lawnmower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the reasons for the brake lever convention on a bicycle? It seems that the front brake is more important for controlled braking, in the UK we have that worked by the right hand, which makes sense. For countries that drive on the right that means the back brake has the 'handed-ness' advantage, rather than the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like to be controlling my speed with the front-brake when making a right-hand turn, however it is not possible to do this when signalling. A left turn is not so important to stick your arm out for - drivers coming the other way and behind don't really care if the sign is not made for a left-hand turn, whereas a right-hand turn really should be indicated. So, from that perspective, the brakes are the 'wrong-way-round' for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone kindly guide me through why the brakes are wired up so and any historical origins of the convention?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T18:38:13.970" Title="Why is the front brake lever on the right if you 'drive' on the left and vice-versa?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4924" CreationDate="2011-07-17T23:58:24.067" Score="10" ViewCount="10704" Body="&lt;p&gt;My road bike has a Campagnolo Veloce gearset. It's running 53 and 39 tooth chainrings. I have a 13-25 10sp cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that a lot of the time when I'm cruising, I'm on the big chainring and in the 3rd or 4th largest gears on the back. There is a fairly significant chain angle. Because of this, the chain is a bit noisy and I'm sure it's stressing the drivetrain a little. Also, when I need to drop down a gear I quickly need to drop onto the small chainring which necessitates significant adjustments on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of changing the 53 chainring to a 50t. I am happy to lose a little top end speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to my theory, dropping a 53t to a 50t will reduce my gear ratio by 1.06 (53/50). Which would be the equivalent of switching from a 17t on the back to an 18t. Assuming this is correct, it's not going to have a very big impact, but it might be enough to make it worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there is an option of using a 3 chainring crankset, but I think that will be a bit too expensive and still won't solve the core issue of getting the right sized large chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to change the cassette but I can't see many that would really make much of a difference. If I could get a 15-25 that'd probably be about right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the change mean I need to change or adjust the front derailler, the rear derailler or  the chain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will there be any other impacts I haven't thought of?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other ideas to solve the problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I can't seem to find a 135mm BCD 50t chainring. I asked my LBS and they said no go. ChainreactionCycles don't &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=62766&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;have the combination I want&lt;/a&gt;. Can I get a 50t 135mm BCD campag chainring? If not, what can I use as an alternative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I've found that BBB make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbbparts.com.au/products/product/BCR-21C+50?category=KJUURSYI&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;campag compatible&lt;/a&gt; chainring that looks like a good option&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: As indicated &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6172/bbb-chainring-will-not-fit&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; the BBB chainring doesn't fit. Looks like a proper compact crankset is my only option now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2019-09-28T07:53:23.383" Title="What is the impact of changing to a smaller chainring?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4721" CreationDate="2011-07-18T00:05:14.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Updated after a week of use:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased the R1 from a local bike shop. Summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's the most comfortable shoe I've worn (which isn't many).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The R1 especially needs a bit of wearing in to reshape the leather and custom Sidas insert to the shape of your specific foot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The included insert is rather extreme and may be initially painful but quickly reshapes to the shape of your foot after a few hours of use. I tried my own Superfeet inserts but went back to the one that ships with the shoe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shoe has several minor adjustments that can be made (tongue padding, straps, insert).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are several form-fitting features that really grip the foot in a comfortable way (especially the heel).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Subjectively, they perform really well. There's the sensation that all foot movement goes right to the pedals and into pure speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The local bike shop had the R3 in stock. I tried their largest size (44.5) and they felt about right, so I ordered the R1 in the hope that they would fit the same. I wish they had the 45 to compare, but I went with the 44.5 anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I received the R1 a few days later and they seemed a bit tighter than the R3, especially in length. However, I'm told this is intentional since the R1 is all kangaroo leather and will stretch a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They immediately felt really comfortable for my foot. Bike shoes are hard to review since foot shapes and sizes are different for everyone. The built-in arch support is very tall at first, but quickly changes to fit your specific foot. I didn't use any heat treatment other than just wearing the shoe on a few rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a 50km ride and felt great, then (possibly unwisely) a 250km ultramarathon (with 3km of vertical over three mountain passes). Other than a preexisting issue with a bone in my right pinky toe, the shoes were extremely comfortable and performed very well. I was very happy to be in this shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sizing is tricky. The R3 is a bit longer than the R1 since it's not made to stretch at all. The R1 is supposed to stretch a bit in both length and toebox width over the first few weeks of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently they run big, maybe even a full size big compared to Sidi. I wear a 45 in Sidi and the 44.5 in Fizik was comfortable for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grip that this shoe has on the heel is incredibly firm without being uncomfortable. I find that I can leave the straps fairly loose and still get good power on the pedals throughout the full stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were very squeaky at first with my Speedplay pedals, but a bit of Carbon paste between the cleat and shoe eliminated all squeaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I'm very happy with this shoe. I plan to use them for 5-10 years, so the price was well worth it for me. It's probably almost impossible to try the R1 in a store (they won't stock it), but you may be able to find an R3 to try on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1823" LastEditorUserId="1823" LastEditDate="2011-07-31T05:24:13.313" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T05:24:13.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4912" CreationDate="2011-07-18T00:33:32.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had no idea there was a difference.  What side is the front shift lever on in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason I can think of to have the brake levers one way vs the other would be for hand signaling, but even there it's hard to say whether it would be better to have the front or rear brake only, when signaling -- I've heard arguments both ways for cases when one-handed braking is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There probably is some slight argument for having the shift levers one way or the other, based on the way the cables route.  Generally this would place the front shift lever on the left-hand side (for a right-side chain), based on the way things work when pulleys are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T00:33:32.083" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4913" CreationDate="2011-07-18T00:42:43.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you reduced the size of the large ring substantially it would probably be &quot;recommended&quot; that you to adjust the front derailer and shorten the chain (though from a mechanical limits/clearance point of view adjustment wouldn't be required).  However, reducing by only 3 teeth is not likely to affect derailer adjustment, and at most you'd remove one double link from the chain -- not really worth bothering with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to go the other way -- put on a larger ring -- then you'd more likely have to make adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T00:42:43.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-18T01:12:16.447" Score="1" ViewCount="650" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking bikes like the Specialized Rock Hopper 29er equipped with lots of gears for versatility and the ability to stand up to trail riding in places where tree roots loom large.  What sort of bikes in this range stand out as good values that will be equal to this sort of duty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1824" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-19T00:13:01.910" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T00:13:01.910" Title="Mountain bike in USD 1,000-1200 range" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4912" CreationDate="2011-07-18T01:28:21.053" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the reason is that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_signals&quot;&gt;hand signals&lt;/a&gt; used to indicate braking generally involve using your 'road side' hand. In countries that drive on the left, this is your right hand and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back brake was considered the 'safer' brake to use during this pre-braking time when you're indicating that you will brake but haven't necessarily started braking yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T02:29:29.293" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T02:29:29.293" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3663" CreationDate="2011-07-18T02:23:14.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An electric bike doesn't require a special frame.  The motor can be placed in the front hub, the batteries can be stowed in a more or less conventional rear rack, only &quot;double decker&quot; to make a slot for the battery, and controls can all mount on the handlebar.  A perfectly conventional &quot;mountain&quot; bike frame can hold all this, without any modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schwinn sells such &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwinnbikes.com/bikes/electric&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost ($2679 for a bike that otherwise would sell for maybe $650) is due to the inherent cost of the components, the fact that the components and bikes aren't mass-produced, and the ability of the company to simply charge more for a product that is &quot;green&quot; and &quot;disabled-friendly&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the components, the battery is probably the most inherently expensive part, with the motor only being expensive to the extent that it isn't mass-produced.  I would guess that the hub/motor could be mass-produced for under 50 USD, if in sufficient quantity.  The battery, OTOH, is likely Li-Ion and can't be made cheaper than maybe 500 USD using current technology.  (But adding to the price of that particular Schwinn model is the fact that the derailer system on the non-battery model is replaced by a multi-speed rear hub, adding another 250 USD or so.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(BTW, one of these bikes made the week-long 372-mile bike trip I was recently on.  The lady riding it reported that it performed very well -- I didn't witness it first-hand because she was ahead of me most of the time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T02:23:14.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4913" CreationDate="2011-07-18T02:34:36.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you may need a big gear to power down big hills, let's look at the effect in gear inches of changing from 53 to 50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;53/13*27=110&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50/13*27=104&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(27 is arbitrary figure for comparison)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you will be losing 6 'gear inches' at the top end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your next sprocket is presumably a 14 tooth, 53/14*27=102&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you went for a 49 then 49/13*27=102&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, you could go smaller still, with 49, to effectively lose only one big gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of teeth on the chain rings and sprockets is always going to be a compromise of weight, reliability and range. Going smaller saves weight, which we like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your rear cassette is due for replacement you could get the 14-28 one (with a new chain). This will drop your big gear down to 49/14*27 94.5 - some mountain bikes can manage that. If you lack top-end gears then you could put your 53T back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you have got a good cadence already, and, unless you have huge hills to power down, loss of some of the big gears should not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted by @Daniel R Hicks you will need to adjust the front derailleur to be 1-3mm above the outer chain ring teeth, outer cage parallel with the chain-ring and cable adjusted accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it is very 'macho' to have big chain ring and miniscule sprockets, realism is helpful, think whether you really need to have the biggest gear and go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T02:34:36.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-18T03:56:00.393" Score="4" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to combine friction shifting and a 7 speed freewheel with current Campy Chorus derailleurs. It seems to me that the way that friction shifting works would allow this combination, since all that happens is that tension on the cable adjusted manually to get the derailleur to move between chainrings, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any feature of indexed operation that makes this unlikely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1826" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T16:45:48.657" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T16:45:48.657" Title="combining friction shifting with indexed components" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4922" CreationDate="2011-07-18T08:55:24.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the friction shifters have enough cable pull range to move the derailleur across the full range of gears, there is no problem with this whatsoever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is occasionally a problem if you try to run older shifters with new 9 and 10 speed cogsets, but there are not usually any ssues if you are looking at a 7 speed range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T08:55:24.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4913" CreationDate="2011-07-18T09:24:34.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would consider changing your crankset to a true compact, 50t/34t, and running an 11/25 rear cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campy actually made a specific derailleur for running a compact front, because they said that the 50t doesn't work well with the standard front derailleur (that may be a function of the tooth differential, so it may not apply if you leave the 39t in place). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit: It does appear that my data on the campy front derailleur may be outdated. Their 10 speed Chorus and Record had an individualized front derailleur, but current product appears more universal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 50t x 11t combo is a 119.6in gear, compared to 107.2inches for the 53t x 13t you're running now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will give you a slightly faster gear than current, a better climbing range, and slightly crisper shifting. Downside is you have to buy the crank set and cassette, not just a chain ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://bikeschool.com/index.php/resources/gear-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UBI gearcalculator&lt;/a&gt; for more info on how gearing changes will affect you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-09-28T07:53:23.383" LastActivityDate="2019-09-28T07:53:23.383" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4922" CreationDate="2011-07-18T11:12:33.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, the only real problem is maintaining fine enough control of the motion, both in actively moving the lever, and in avoiding &quot;creep&quot; between shifts.  In part it comes down to how much fine muscle control you have, and in part it has to do with the quality of the shifter and how it's mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T11:12:33.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4922" CreationDate="2011-07-18T12:09:08.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All correct.  The DRs don't care if the shifters are indexed or not.&#xA;As long as the travel can be accommodated, no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T12:09:08.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2011-07-18T13:56:13.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buy clip in shoes/pedals if you are going to ride in the rain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clip in shoes/pedals made riding in the rain much better.  Prior to that, it was difficult due to my feet slipping from the pedals.  They are easy enough to unclip from if you ever need to in a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="99" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T13:56:13.877" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-18T13:56:13.877" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2011-07-18T15:40:57.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To respond to the second edit, if your roadie friends are trying to train, then carrying the extra weight of a U-lock can give them an extra advantage when they're racing with less weight during a race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, nothing kills your training ride as much as having your bike stolen when you stop for lunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T15:40:57.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2011-07-18T15:55:15.370" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gear down and raise your cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T15:55:15.370" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-18T15:55:15.370" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16" CreationDate="2011-07-18T17:33:16.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that it may be that some countries, particularly in Europe, have subsidized prices for bicycles, or, at the very least, artificially low import tariffs.  (I don't personally know of any, however.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T17:33:16.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4935" CreationDate="2011-07-18T17:37:53.980" Score="25" ViewCount="10263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been considering drive trains on a utility / commuter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shimano Alfine internal 8-speed hub is on several bikes I've liked. I've also heard good things about SRAM and Nexus hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I ride in a wet / nasty winters / fairly flat environment here in Minnesota.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm partial to lower gearing if it meant more reliability or lower&#xA;cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't need max efficiency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All other factors are secondary to durability in my eyes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I’m not current on how much maintenance can I expect a modern internal hub to require, and how long will it last before needing to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are expected or actual lifetime / maintenance needs of modern internal hubs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastEditorUserId="1819" LastEditDate="2020-02-01T23:37:30.720" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T23:37:30.720" Title="How many miles and/or commuting seasons will a modern internal geared hub last?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4873" CreationDate="2011-07-18T18:13:59.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly, cycling at speeds that much slower than traffic has some serious tradeoffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For maximum visibility, you need to ride on the road itself - inside the right lane marker as drivers really don't pay attention to things not on the road. I don't know if it would be safer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.commutebybike.com/2008/03/18/top-5-reasons-to-claim-the-lane-and-why-its-safer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;take the lane&lt;/a&gt; the majority of 50 mph roads in the us - but you might experiment with where you place your bike in relation to the other vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring the rude drivers that buzz you even when they see you - you'll want to be very, very bright and visible. I'm talking a two foot tall slow moving vehicle orange reflective triangle visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tradeoff comes since you rightly want to be as far outside the path of a car as possible - but you can't ride so close to the edge of the pavement that you are startled into the ditch. Do know that the further off the road you are - the less likely the average driver will a) notice you and b) slow down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try riding closer to the edge of the road and see how you feel. Also, experiment with anything that makes your hearing better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As silly as it seems, a &quot;rear view hearer&quot; is much more effective than a rear view mirror for being aware of vehicles approaching from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modifying your helmet to ensure a clear path for noise behind you. Temporarily adding a small plastic half-cone just in front of your ear that would reduce airflow over your ear and/or direct more noise from behind might be just the thing to give you that extra warning to prepare for an upcoming vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T18:13:59.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4933" CreationDate="2011-07-18T18:55:13.977" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 700c Jericho hardtail in 1997, which came with a Rohloff 14 speed internally geared hub. I used it as a commuter for five years, at least 150 miles per week, 50 weeks of the year. That's 37500 miles. Even assuming I took a week or 2 out in there for whatever reason, call it 35000 miles. After that, I continued to ride it one or 2 days a week, for less strenuous rides. I have just sent it back for its first major service, other than lubing and cleaning the external components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Rohloff is a ridiculously burly hub. The Alfine, or the i-Motion9 would do well to match half that performance. But I'd say based on people I've sold bikes with Nexus or Alfine hubs, and how rarely we see them for service, and how much more rare it is that they need major service, that 20000 miles is not too much to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shimano and SRAM hubs are both user serviceable, unlike the Rohloff, which should extend the useable life significantly also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was trying to find any formal service interval information, but both SRAM and Shimano say that aside from cleaning off the external parts, the hubs are &quot;well sealed&quot; and the service interval should be &quot;long&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown's site also says, &quot;Service should be quite rare on these well sealed hubs.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T19:04:52.733" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T19:04:52.733" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4943" CreationDate="2011-07-18T19:38:54.570" Score="5" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Organized rides&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; are popular and seem to be increasing in popularity around the world. The rides are usually charity and fundraising rides, and are generally supported in some fashion. Typically, the support includes food/rest stops and mechanical support. These rides are where you have 1000 - 2000+ bicycle riders, on the same route, at &lt;strong&gt;ALL&lt;/strong&gt; skill levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should one anticipate for, and adapt to this type of ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prepare to be outraged, but there was this as well...http://obra.org/posts/obra/show/74957 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the deal via &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/MBZJF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Portland&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-25T03:33:10.750" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T03:33:10.750" Title="Tips for participating in a large organized ride" Tags="&lt;skills&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;&lt;organized-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4918" CreationDate="2011-07-18T21:37:12.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I have never owned one, I've heard from friends that 29ers are good for going over rougher or more technical terrain for xc riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say &quot;lots of gears,&quot; though, you should be looking at &lt;em&gt;which&lt;/em&gt; gears it has, not just that it has a lot of them.  For example, on my full-suspension bike I have a 10-speed cassette (the rear gears) that is an 11-36t, which means that the smallest gear is 11 teeth and the biggest is 36 teeth.  But when I was building my hardtail, I was choosing between a 9-speed cassette of 11-32t or 12-34t.  See, the 11-32t means you can go faster, but the 12-34t means you're trading top speed for easier climbing.  If you're doing more climbing, make sure the bike you're getting is geared for that.  Or just get bigger legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you want to take note of the chainrings (front gears).  You may find that you get duplication of speeds based on gear ratios.  I'm running a 22/33/44 on my full-suspension and a 22/32/42 on my hardtail.  Having 44 teeth on the largest chainring instead of 42 means that I have a higher top speed, but since I have a 44 and a 22, and my cassette has cogs that are 13t, 15t, 26t, and 30t, I get duplicate speeds that make it less than a 30-speed bike because 44/26=22/13 and 44/30=22/15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as suspension goes, you'll want to check to see if the fork has adjustable travel and lockout.  I don't have adjustable travel on either bike, but it's something to consider.  As far as lockout goes, if you're riding xc, you gotta have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider brakes.  I think disc brakes are awesome.  I don't care much for rim brakes for mountain biking.  You can look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20/best-brake-for-mountain-bike-racing&quot; title=&quot;SE question about brakes!&quot;&gt;these cool answers about mtb brakes&lt;/a&gt; for more about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For shifters, I'm a SRAM guy for mountain.  I like the thumb-only shifters.  Some people like Shimano.  That's fine.  Just don't get grip/twist shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all those things taken into account, &lt;strong&gt;make sure to ride the bike before you buy it&lt;/strong&gt;.  If you get a bike on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;bikes direct&quot;&gt;bikesdirect.com&lt;/a&gt;, you'll save some cash, but you may not fit on the bike.  If you go to your lbs, you may be able to find the bike you want and the one that fits you.  If you need a different stem or other component, they might even be able to swap the right one in for you and show you what's what on the bike.  You really don't want to lay out a grand for a bike that won't even fit you properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you take these things into account, you can go to the manufacturers' websites and compare technical specifications to what you need and then find the lbs that's an authorized dealer.  I think that's the best way to get the right bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T21:37:12.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4947" CreationDate="2011-07-18T22:14:05.727" Score="14" ViewCount="30390" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my commuter bike I decided to rid myself of the small inner chain ring (which is almost never used) and front dérailleur (now redundant). However, I have come across an unusual problem. Whilst cycling &lt;strong&gt;the chain is coming off&lt;/strong&gt; of the outer chain ring and falling onto the crank arm. This usually coincides with a shift of the rear dérailleur onto a smaller sprocket, although notably not onto the highest gearing - it has happened shifting from the 5th to 6th scrocket on the 12-27 cassette for example. Furthermore, I am not exerting abnormal force on the crank, just sitting and riding as normal. This just happens out of the blue and as you can imagine is quite disconcerting/dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered and checked the following so far: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain length&lt;/strong&gt; - tension is good so no obvious problems there...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain dirty&lt;/strong&gt; - it most certainly is not, it has only seen 200 miles and its lubed up a treat ;-) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain ring to cassette alignment&lt;/strong&gt; - Hollowtech II BB and Ultegra 53T 6600 crank in 68mm shell, standard setup afaict, no obvious problems there... &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lack of front-dérailleur&lt;/strong&gt; - I removed this since there is only one chain ring - could this be a factor that prevented me noticing the problem before (surely not...) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain ring worn&lt;/strong&gt; - the chain ring looks in pretty good shape to me&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I experimented briefly, turning the crank and applying a very slight outward pull (away from frame) on the chain and it promptly fell off onto the crank. Frankly, I was surprised how such a small misalignment could cause the chain the fall off... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question:&lt;/strong&gt; Has anyone else encountered this problem before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any comments on the things I have checked&lt;/strong&gt; (why I may be mistaken in my assessment of the problem)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other possible causes I have missed would be gratefully received&lt;/strong&gt; - this is spoiling an otherwise nice bike and I really do not want to go back to using the double crank configuration if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iUEu6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ultegra crank adapted to use only 53T outer chainring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1092" LastEditorDisplayName="user1092" LastEditDate="2011-07-19T10:09:24.607" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T18:51:34.107" Title="Mysterious case: chain falling off large chainring, how to fix? " Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2011-07-18T23:00:02.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many miles on the chainring?  A worn chainring could be part of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the rear derailer tension arm may be sticking a bit and not maintaining good tension (though from the looks of your bike in that picture the derailer is probably shiny clean).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I suspect the missing derailer is a big part of it.  When the chain &quot;jumps&quot; onto a new cog it whips around quite a bit, and the front derailer would help contain things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried cranking it and shifting while it's on a service stand, so you can observe the derailer action in detail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T23:00:02.587" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4936" CreationDate="2011-07-19T00:43:11.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything involving more than 50 riders leaves a large impact on the area so you may want to really think about how you can be a great guest, self sufficient and most of all not in a rush. Add an hour or more to arrive early - you will be with wonderful people all interested in being outdoors together.  Celebrate and take time to connect to others socially - there are no bad delays - just more chances to meet people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go slow and don't be in a rush to finish because it will end far too soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T00:43:11.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2011-07-19T00:51:22.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A spare link of chain and tool - or an entire chain if you are really far past where your legs can carry you if the route is remote. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T00:51:22.560" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-19T00:51:22.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4936" CreationDate="2011-07-19T01:03:40.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it really is an &quot;organized&quot; ride for thousands of riders of all skill levels, you don't really need to know/do anything special other than to be reasonably prepared for the time/distance of the ride, bring along water bottles, and bring money.  And maybe sun lotion on a sunny day, or rain gear on a threatening day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But not all &quot;organized&quot; rides are that, and you need to be a little prepared for at least minor chaos -- having rest stops run out of water/food, maps or cue sheets that aren't especially accurate, etc.  More money, an extra water bottle, and a cell phone will get you through most of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you need to look out for others in the ride, to protect both them and you.  If you've not ridden with a group before you should observe other, more skilled riders to learn a little bicycle group etiquette, and you particularly need to be conscious of the safety issues involved, such as riding too close together, riding 3-4 abreast in traffic, making sudden turns and stops without being aware of the riders around you, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that many cyclists there will be some idiots.  Don't ride like an idiot just because a bunch of other riders are -- do your best to set a good example.  And with that many bikes there will be some folks driving cars who will get frustrated and testy -- understand that they are NOT enjoying themselves motoring along at 5mph watching you guys clown around.  Show some consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and bring some toilet paper, or (my preference) a small packet of &quot;baby wipes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T01:03:40.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2011-07-19T01:10:09.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike slip has badly worn components and the chain slips off the front when I am in the big cogs at the back. I know this problem is a combination of chain wear plus alignment between the sprockets and chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For single chain-ring bikes this is a common occurrence and normally you can get one of these to go on the seat-tube to prevent it from happening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HK3sj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike sounds like it has different chain-alignment to mine, yet the the symptom is the same. A new chain will almost certainly rectify the situation. To check the chain wear, see how far you can pull it at the point on the chainring nearest the front of the bike. There should only be a millimetre or two of movement, if it is a lot more than that then you know it need replacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T01:10:09.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2011-07-19T01:58:05.687" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah. A modern double chainring is ramped and pinned, in order to be more easily shifted from one ring to the next. Simply put, the chainring &quot;wants&quot; to pass off the chain to the next cog. Without a derailleur to keep it in place, the lateral pull of the chain shifting across the rear, combined with some road jostling, can make the chain fall off the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple solutions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install a singlespeed chainring without ramps or pins, with &quot;straight&quot; teeth.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use an outer chainring guard and inner &quot;dog tooth&quot; chain keeper  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combine the two (which is the best solution).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The free and easy way to keep it on while looking at other solutions is to reinstall the front derailler and adjust the limit screws so it keeps the chain in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty common concern with cyclocross. Racers often use a single-chainring setup for the sake of reliability, and either or a dual chainguard or chainguard-and-chain watcher setup for just such reasons (also because they keep picking the bike up and putting it down whilst running and jumping over stuff), so you get stuff like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeman.com/CC-SRAMS300CX.html&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeman.com/CC-SRAMS300CX.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1830" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-19T02:07:13.300" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T02:07:13.300" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2011-07-19T02:18:08.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;how about an automatic garage door opener? I have it on good authority that they automatically close the door too with just a push of a button. Do you think that would get her to close it up after she left?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real issue here is the garage left open. Worst case, the thief goes inside, closes the door to be discrete, and uses your own tools to break into the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, I'd consider hardware store concrete anchors into the slab to secure the bike. I'd be the one avoiding anything from the bike catalog myself because I have my own welder and abrasive cutoff grinder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another sneaky tip. Is there any way you can start a project like maybe boat building that would force your wife's car to be parked outside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1606" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T02:18:08.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2011-07-19T08:23:58.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the security, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://hiplok.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hiplock&lt;/a&gt; does look easy to carry while cycling. No extra weight on the bike, just some extra weight on your hips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T08:23:58.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3038" CreationDate="2011-07-19T14:34:59.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find a current reference or photo, but we used to have one at my previous shop. If I remember correctly it was manufactured by J.A. Stein, but that may be wrong. It was a professionally made copy of a popular homemade wheel building tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was called a Stress Relief Box. It consisted of a 6 inch deep box, about 3 inches wider than a 700c rim. There was a a hole cut just about 2&quot; smaller than the rim in the top of the box, so that when a wheel was set on top of it, the rim was supported, but the spokes and hub were not touching anything. There were inserts to allow use with smaller wheels as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was an metal arm that straddled the wheel, which looked like a taller, and wider version of the Park tool dishing tool, with a lever that allowed pressure to be safely placed on the center of the hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this version, there were no hydraulics, but it would appear similar to a hydraulic press, or there could be more versions of them. There were lots of homemade ones, so there is also a possibility that it was a DIY version. I know a guy in Seattle who was working on a Arduino controlled version which was supposed to allow you to set a tension level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one we had worked well, and required minimal setup, although it took up space. I haven't seen one in any shop since, and I can't find a current reference, so it may be off the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This a very rough diagram of what it looked like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QKxYN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stress relief box&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-19T14:55:09.867" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T14:55:09.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4208" CreationDate="2011-07-19T17:01:30.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To directly answer your question, no, any chain which is long enough is not compatible with your bike. No one here can tell you what chain will fit without a lot more detail in your question, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is a good place to start. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/daniel-r-hicks&quot;&gt;Daniel&lt;/a&gt; posted that link as a comment on my earlier answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask your LBS. They will know once they see the bike. Or measure the width of the outside chain plates with a vernier caliper on the old chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T17:01:30.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4721" CreationDate="2011-07-19T21:33:22.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of purchasing these and I chose them over the Mavic Zxelium Ultimates which are at least $100.00 more here in the U.S.. They do run big by at least .5 to 1.0 full size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to mention is that they have a larger arch support than I have ever felt before in any road shoes. This could be of some concern for some as I have a friend who purchased them and found that he could not wear them due to the arch. I have read that you could put in a thin shoe insert to help alleviate some of the arch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The toe box is wide which makes the shoe feel roomy but not loose. The heel cup fits very close (no heel movement). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quality and craftmanship is exceptional. You get a lot of shoe for your money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1833" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-19T21:50:12.177" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T21:50:12.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4955" CreationDate="2011-07-20T02:58:04.793" Score="2" ViewCount="11412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konabikeworld.com/09_dew_en.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2009 Kona Dew&lt;/a&gt; and I'm just wondering how to figure out what front and rear derailleurs are compatible with my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I just have to find a matching Shimano part that fits 8-speed gearsets? It seems like most of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/store/sub/132-Derailleurs+Front-Mountain.aspx?s=2922&amp;amp;mfg=0&amp;amp;closeoutHotdeal=&amp;amp;use=&amp;amp;sort=Default&amp;amp;show=25&amp;amp;pricemin=0&amp;amp;pricemax=900&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;front derailleurs at Jenson USA&lt;/a&gt; seem to support 9-speed only, same goes with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/store/sub/1565-Derailleurs+Rear-Mountain.aspx?s=2919&amp;amp;mfg=0&amp;amp;closeoutHotdeal=&amp;amp;use=&amp;amp;sort=Default&amp;amp;show=25&amp;amp;pricemin=0&amp;amp;pricemax=700&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rear&lt;/a&gt;s too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="210" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T22:44:02.317" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T12:54:44.323" Title="Determining front &amp; rear derailleur compatibility" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4956" CreationDate="2011-07-20T03:10:00.247" Score="3" ViewCount="7989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/09/09_dew_en.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2009 Kona Dew&lt;/a&gt; that comes with handlebars that have a rise in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that I feel pretty upright while biking so I'm looking to get into a more aerodynamic position. Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/09/09_drdew_en.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2009 Dr. Dew&lt;/a&gt;, it looks like the geometry is more aggressive due to a flat bar and a different stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is the fit/posture affected by the difference in bars? Is it more taxing on the rider to maintain such a posture without increasing the weight on the hands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the basic frame geometry of the Dr. Dew is identical to my bike, can I replicate the setup simply by switching to a flat bar like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/HB408A01-Fsa+Xc-180+Alloy+Flat+Bar.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this FSA XC-180&lt;/a&gt;? Should I replace the stem and/or headset at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="210" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T04:09:53.523" Title="How is bicycle fit affected by switching from a riser bar to a flat bar?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4953" CreationDate="2011-07-20T03:42:44.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Front and rear derailers are essentially independent -- so long as the two derailers can function with the same type chain they can work together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailer &quot;fit&quot; basically involves 4 factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The amount of chain that can be &quot;absorbed&quot; by the arm (rear derailer only)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The index &quot;pitch&quot; of the derailer &amp;amp; its shift lever -- how far it moves in one step (indexed derailers only)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The total distance the derailer can move in and out (adjustable to a degree)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The angle that the derailer describes as it moves in and out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of chain that the rear derailer arm can &quot;absorb&quot; between the most extended chain position and the most &quot;relaxed&quot; is generally specified as a number of teeth, being the difference between the sum of the teeth on the largest front and rear sprockets and the sum of the teeth on the smallest front and rear sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sprocket cluster has a number of sprockets joined together with a certain &quot;pitch&quot; -- the distance between sprockets, as measured from (to pick one point) the outermost surface of one sprocket to the outermost surface of the next sprocket.  The &quot;pitch&quot; of the derailer/shift lever must match this sprocket cluster pitch or the derailer will never be able to be adjusted to shift between sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total distance the derailer must be able to move is the index pitch times one less than the number of sprockets in the cluster.  Eg, for 5 sprocket cluster with a 5mm pitch the derailer must move 20mm from innermost to outermost.  Note that most derailers can be adjusted with the high and low limits to 2 or 3 different numbers of sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The angle is a little more complicated, and also not always well documented for different derailers.  The rear cluster on a mountain or touring bike generally has a wide range of sprocket sizes and hence the angle that the derailer movement must describe relative to the axle is fairly steep.  A racing cluster, on the other hand, would tend to have sprocket sizes very close together (only one tooth difference in the extreme case), and so the angle relative to the axle is fairly shallow.  Derailer specifications may state this quantity as a range of sprocket sizes, or a range of teeth (or may omit it entirely). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Obviously, &quot;angle&quot; is also an issue for front derailers, and here the acceptable sprocket sizes should be clearly spelled out.  Your standard front derailer may not handle that super-small granny gear, for instance.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most 9-speed derailers can be adjusted to work with an 8-speed cluster, so long as the 8-speed cluster is using the 9-speed pitch.  Unfortunately, the pitch of 8-speed clusters is not cast in concrete, but in most cases it's the same as 9-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T03:42:44.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4954" CreationDate="2011-07-20T04:04:30.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks to me like the difference is as much in the stem as in the bar.  (It may be that for the Dr. Dew the bar has simply been rotated to a flatter position.)  And both bikes appear to use a threadless headset, so the stem can be replaced without touching the headset proper.  In some cases the stem is designed to allow it to be removed from the bar without having to &quot;strip&quot; the bar, in other cases not.  Can't tell from the pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minor differences in bar position -- height and &quot;reach&quot; -- can have a major effect on riding comfort.  Lowering the bar and/or moving it forward will significantly increase the pressure on the hands and add strain to the back.  It does improve aerodynamics significantly, but, unlike with a &quot;drop&quot; bar, you tend to be stuck with that lower position, even when you'd like to relax a bit.  (But there are various add-ons for straight bars that allow one to switch back and forth between a relatively upright position and a more aero one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In fact, it's a pet peeve of mine that many bikes are designed to look &quot;mean&quot; on the showroom floor, with bar positioned low, but the bars are positioned too low for the comfort of most riders, and the threadless scheme makes it harder to raise the bar very much.  As a result, many bikes are purchased, ridden for a few weeks, found to be uncomfortable, and then forgotten.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T04:04:30.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4959" CreationDate="2011-07-20T04:54:36.433" Score="2" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a bunch of parts off of a bike with a hybrid titanium/carbon frame (it died), and am using them to build up a bike from a sweet steel frame I got on ebay for a song. It's my first time building up a frame from scratch, and although it has been mostly smooth sailing so far, I recently ran into a major issue with the brake calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, due to the fact that the tubing on the steel frame is so much skinnier than the tubing on the titanium/carbon one, the pivot bolts on both of the calipers (the part that actually inserts into the frame) are too long, so that even when the nut is tightened all the way the calipers are still loose and flop around. Is there any way that I can work around this and still use those old calipers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1834" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T17:02:57.660" Title="Putting brakes from a fat frame onto a skinny frame" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4957" CreationDate="2011-07-20T09:03:57.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference is usually in the length of the threaded insert that goes in the frame, and that the caliper bolt threads into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inserts are available separately, and must be sized correctly for the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be some older calipers where the bolt itself is too long, but a Ti/Carbon frame sounds pretty new for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come in 16mm and 22mm lengths. A steel frame would normally use the shorter 16mm version. See photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WY6qy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Caliper Bolt For Road Bikes M6 X 16mm X Dia 10mm&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wRywD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Caliper Bolt For Road Bikes M6 X 22mm X Dia 10mm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;____________ 16mm _____________________________________________________ 22mm _________________________&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T17:02:57.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4957" CreationDate="2011-07-20T11:36:57.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've run into situations on cheap BSOs (rebuilding bikes for Christmas Anonymous) where the pivots were welded on and we had this problem.  Using shims (washers) worked OK, though it looked a little dorky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T11:36:57.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4954" CreationDate="2011-07-20T11:46:51.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the geometry of the two frames is identical, the short answer is that matching the same stem and bar from the Dr Dew on your PhD candidate Dew will create the same body position as the D. Dew comes with Stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both stems are designed to allow the bar to be removed without stripping the bar of shifters, brake levers and grips. There is no need to change the headset, but the bolt in the topcap of your stem is your bearing adjustment for the headset, and it may need extra spacers, or to be readjusted after changing the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bar on the Dr. Dew is swept back 12 degrees. If you really want to match the position of the Dr. Dew, then you'll want a bar with matching sweep as well as rise. The FSA bar you linked is a 5 deg sweep, which will produce a different feel when riding. Whether that matters to you depends on why you are changing the bar. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/page.cfm?content=components&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kona's Deluxe Energy bar&lt;/a&gt; is available aftermarket, and is the bar from the Dr. Dew, with a better finish and graphics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Daniel is right that small changes in position on a bike produce radical changes in comfort. I'd suggest changing the bar, but hanging on to your old one in case you don't like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T11:46:51.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4953" CreationDate="2011-07-20T12:07:32.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Determining compatibility in a practical sense, for your bike, will consist of 4 steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clamp position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are two major types here, and a couple less common varieties.     &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A top clamp derailleur is on where the clamp that mount the front derailleur to the frame is above the body of the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yniX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A top clamp front derailleur&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A bottom clamp derailleur is on where the clamp that mount the front derailleur to the frame is below the body of the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AEsfR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A bottom clamp front derailleur&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cable pull direction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A front derailleur is designed to be activated either by a cable pulling from above, or by a cable pulling from below. Usually, this can be determined by whether the cables on your frame are routed along the top tube(above the derailleur), or along the down tube(below the derailleur. There are some cases where there is a pulley on the derailleur which reverses the direction, but if you are replacing the derailleur, it is not necessary to continue that pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the derailleur clamp size must be the same as the one for your frame. There are 3 common sizes, plus braze-on derailleurs which bolt to the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sizes are 34.9mm, 31.8mm, and 28.6mm. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Kona will be either 34.9 or 31.8. 28.6 is usually reserved for steel frames.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can find your clamp size printed on the inside of the derailleur clamp, as in the picture below, in most cases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The last thing is number of gears. Typically any derailleur is designed to be used with a particular number of gears. In some circumstances, the derailleur can be used on a bike with a lesser number of gears, (i.e. a 9 speed derailleur on an 8 speed bike.) I don't know of any circumstance where an 8 speed could be used on a 9 speed bike, however.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rear derailleur is less complex, only really requiring an equal or greater number of gears than the original, and the correct length of cage to engage all the excess chain length on your bike. Most MTB's and all triple crank bikes that I am aware of use a long cage rear derailleur. It may not be possible to use a new 10 speed MTB derailleur on a 9 or 8 speed bike, but I would have to verify that in person. I know that Shimano says it is not functional, but that may only mean that it's not perfect enough to give their seal of approval.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: 10 and 11 speed drivetrains are often not backwards compatible for either front or rear derailleurs.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8xo9H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Derailleur clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-05-03T02:46:52.010" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T02:46:52.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4954" CreationDate="2011-07-20T12:35:36.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it more taxing on the rider to maintain such a posture without increasing the weight on the hands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a Dr Dew. When I first bought it, to commute 2 hours/day, for the first couple of months I had it, I noticed the weight on my hands. This is fixed by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Varying the position of my hand, even slightly: e.g. putting the thumb under or over or along the bar makes a (very) slight variation in the wrist position&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Putting the bar on the heel of the hand, instead of in the palm, puts less stress on the wrist and other fleshy bits&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I wear &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axiomgear.com/products/apparel/gloves/unisex-short-finger/classic-crochet/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;padded gloves&lt;/a&gt; all the time&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, too, I seem to have more or less weight: depending on whether I'm sitting back or forward on the saddle, and how hard I'm pedalling (as an extreme example, weight on the hand is negative, i.e. I'm holding/pulling on the bars, when I'm first accelerating from a stop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I recall correctly, someone commented to me earlier on this board that your weight should be partly supported by your trunk/core/back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T12:35:36.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4953" CreationDate="2011-07-20T15:31:03.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one other aspect that has not yet been addressed: shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano and SRAM use different technologies for the rear derailleur.  Most SRAM has a 1:1 actuation ratio, which means that the length of cable moved by the shifters is identical to the horizontal movement of the derailleur.  However, all Shimano uses a &lt;strong&gt;2:1&lt;/strong&gt; actuation ratio, which means that twice as much cable has to be moved as horizontal movement of the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have Shimano shifters, you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; get a Shimano rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have SRAM shifters that are X-series (X-4, X-5, X-7, X-9, X-0), you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; get a SRAM rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a concern &lt;em&gt;only for the rear derailleur&lt;/em&gt; and not for the front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastEditorUserId="1802" LastEditDate="2011-07-20T18:02:25.543" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T18:02:25.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-20T15:55:37.397" Score="2" ViewCount="4041" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen fixies with mtb handlebars, sawed-off mtb handlebars, drop bars, and bullhorns.  The fixie I built has drop bars, but I'm wondering if I should change that if I want to sell it.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JTIbw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-07-20T20:49:11.547" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T15:29:11.530" Title="What kind of handlebar should go on a fixie to sell it?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4964" CreationDate="2011-07-20T16:25:01.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Handlebar type and shape is largely a matter of personal preference - especially on trendy fixed-gear and single speed bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would sell it as is. If you change the handlebar there is a likely possibility that you will also have to change the brake handle. That's a lot of needless expense. Let the buyer swap it out if they want something different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T16:25:01.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4964" CreationDate="2011-07-20T17:06:09.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The handlebar on your fixie should be the one you want to ride. All the styles have purpose, even if it's just that it looks cool. If you're selling it, let it be. The new owner will have their own ideas about what works for them, and may just change it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also requires changing more than just the bar, and can get quite pricey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T17:06:09.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-20T17:32:18.893" Score="8" ViewCount="7595" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trek Fx 7.3, 1 year old, 1900 miles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 days short of my 1 year bike purchase anniversary I discovered some broken spokes on the rear wheel. The bike shop gave me a new wheel they had in the shop, an extra wheel they had and said it was better than my wheel. There was no charge for this I presume because it was under a year and though I'm not sure I would guess Treks warrenty is 1 year. 2 weeks later another spoke breaks and I replace that at a 30 dollar cost. The &quot;sales&quot; person tried to sells me a $160 wheel saying that factory wheels are junk and this expensive one is so much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning which is about 3 weeks from the last spoke, another spoke breaks. I commute to work and this is becoming a problem. I probably need a new wheel but I'm debating whether I want to bother with this shop anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts? &#xA;thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1836" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T17:31:04.563" LastActivityDate="2020-11-01T14:19:15.960" Title="How long should spokes last?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4967" CreationDate="2011-07-20T17:45:24.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, there are several reasons which can cause spokes to break continually. Metal Fatigue is one, but it should take longer than that to be as serious a problem as it appears that you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will also break if there is damage to the wheel in some fashion. Meaning if you hit a speedbump at reasonably high speeds, and the rim gets out of true, even if you true and tension it again, it may need more attention for the rest of its useful life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you break one spoke, and replace it, and the problem goes away, then you're fine. Breaking 2 or 3, or more, spokes on a wheel in a reasonably short period of time, especially if it is without apparent cause, like hitting something, is usually an indication that the wheel is permanently damaged and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can also be the result of poor maintenance practices. A basic wheel should be trued and tensioned properly again after the first 100-200 miles of riding, and may need to be retensioned regularly to stay strong (at much longer intervals, like say every 6 months when ridden regularly). This interval will vary depending on rider weight, riding style, and skill. If this is not done, it allows the poorly supported rim (because the spokes are loose) to flex and bend as you ride, and even if you later tension the wheel again, it will not be as good as it was new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The economy of scale in the USA and Europe means that it is often cheaper to buy a good prebuilt wheel than it is to have a handbuilt wheel made for you, even if they use the same parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think about where and how you ride the bike, and whether it is possible that you could be causing the damage in some way, and I would find a different shop with a good reputation, and ask them the same questions. If you get similar answers, then you can trust that the shop you are going to is doing well for you. Most shops do their best, in my experience, but not all shops have similarly skilled and knowledgable staff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, there are definite quality and durability differences between a good wheel, even a good basic wheel, and a cheap factory built wheel of the type that would come on a sub $500 bike. What wheel do you have? What bike? If we know that I can help more directly, but these are good general rules to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-29T03:44:00.133" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T03:44:00.133" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4967" CreationDate="2011-07-20T17:45:50.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This largely depends on how frequently you check the true and tension of the spokes.  If one gets loose you are likely to break spokes frequently, and once you've had a few break the others are likely to go more frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of my daily pre-ride check I spin the wheels looking for significant wobbles and will take care of them right then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of my monthly check (usually the first weekend in the month) I squeeze pairs of spokes together around the wheel to check that the tension is approximately the same.  If spokes are loose or if the wheel is out of true I remove it and use a truing stand to true it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general rule of thumb has been if I've broken 4+ spokes it's time to have the wheel rebuilt, which at my LBS cost me about $60-80 depending on the quality and quantity of spokes I choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaking spokes is not usually a reason to need to buy a new wheel unless there is some kind of defect in the rim or the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T17:45:50.933" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1343" CreationDate="2011-07-20T18:14:35.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Communication is key.  I have a cowbell I attach to my bike when riding on trails so people know that a bike is coming.  Or that a cow is speeding toward them.  Either way, the trails I go on are vacant, save for the occasional hiker, and they're often courteous enough to move off the trail in order to let me go by.  I thank them as I pass by because hikers &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have the right of way.  When hikers hold their ground, I have to clip out, go to the side of the singletrack path, and then lean my bike as far as I can toward the brush so the hikers can get by my handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it bothersome to yield to hikers?  Absolutely.  But I think crashing into someone is worse.  Especially with all the lawyers here in California.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T18:14:35.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4972" CreationDate="2011-07-20T19:13:43.817" Score="9" ViewCount="1658" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2787/how-to-know-when-to-change-a-chain&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; suggests using a tool or ruler to assess chain stretch to determine when to replace a chain. I have one such tool (Park Tool CC-3), and it tells me that my chain is not stretched even to the 0.75 level (is that %?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My chain has at least 2,000 miles (~3,200 km) on it, so I am wondering if it should replace it just as a matter of practice (i.e., preventive care). I try to take care of the chain: wipe it down after rides, lubricate regularly (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/132/how-often-should-i-lube-my-chain&quot;&gt;good advice here&lt;/a&gt;), etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is it inconceivable that the chain is still in good shape after this many miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other reason to replace the chain other than elongation, assuming it otherwise appears to be okay? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T03:06:50.707" Title="Should a chain be replaced even if it's not stretched?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4971" CreationDate="2011-07-20T19:47:22.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2000 miles is an estimate of when the chain will stretch.  Your chain may last longer than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as replacing it goes, I think it depends on your financial situation.  If you can easily afford a new chain, I recommend buying one.  A replaced chain means that you don't have to worry about your current chain stretching beyond the limit and damaging your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your budget makes buying a new chain difficult, you'll be all right to keep riding.  Just check the chain stretch every so often to determine when it's getting near absolutely necessary to buy a chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T19:47:22.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4971" CreationDate="2011-07-20T21:43:28.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the tool doesn't show it to be stretched, and it's not rusted and there are no stiff links or other obvious problems, then there's no need to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a good idea to always keep a spare chain or two on hand, though, especially if you have an &quot;odd&quot; chain (eg, a 5-speed chain in these days where everyone else is running 10-speed chains).  It's amazing how often a shop will try to sell you the wrong chain (or tube or tire) because they don't have the right one on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T21:43:28.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4971" CreationDate="2011-07-21T00:17:35.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, chain wear tools are notoriously inaccurate because they rely on very specific conditions, including proper placement in the chain, and a user who is educated on how to use them. They can be used accurately, but commonly are not.&lt;a href=&quot;http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent discussion of chain wear and how to measure it accurately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, Shimano recommends 800-1000 miles on a chain as the point to start looking at replacing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, yes, it is possible that the chain is still in good shape after 3200km if you are a lightweight rider, who tends toward spinning rather than heavy gear use, and who maintains the bike well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, if you're worried about it, replace it. There is no downside to replacing it early, and you've gotten your use out of it. Assuming it will not hurt you financially, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T03:06:50.707" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T03:06:50.707" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4978" CreationDate="2011-07-21T03:22:39.020" Score="9" ViewCount="29310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute on a fixie. I'm using KMC Z410 chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every evening if it's wet I wipe and re-lube my chain, using ProLink lube. Every weekend I remove the chain, soak it in kero, brush it with a citrus degreaser, allow to dry and then re-lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current chain is 2 months old (about 800km) and is over .75 already so I think I'll replace it this weekend. Mind you, it is winter here and it's been pretty wet most weeks. Also there is a lot of fine sandy grit on the paths I tend to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read questions &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4971/should-a-chain-be-replaced-even-if-its-not-stretched&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt; and am amazed how long people's chains will last. I don't mind replacing the chain often as it's a cheap chain ($15) and I want to protect my chainring and cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I'm doing wrong with my maintenance regime? Is it surprising that my chain isn't lasting that long? Or is everything okay and I should stop worrying about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: I relaxed my maintenance regime. I just wiped down and re-lubed occasionally. The chain was very quiet and smooth. However today, after just 20 days and 353 kilometers, it's already over .75!!! I checked the chain guage on a new chain and it is definitely indicating that the new chain is under .75. Why am I burning through chains so fast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: A little about me and my riding. I weigh about 88kg (195lbs). I ride fairly aggressively on bike tracks on the way to work (I almost never get passed). There are some hills so I am reasonably often out of the saddle and pushing pretty hard. I will take the old chain into a bike shop next weekend and let you know what they say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2019-09-23T16:34:45.463" Title="How long should a well maintained chain last and what can I do to prolong its life?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2011-07-21T03:32:44.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A chain can last anywhere from about 500 miles to 5000, depending on the quality of the chain, the sprockets, how the bike is ridden, and the maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I clean my chain about twice a year, whether it needs it or not, and I get about 2000 miles out of mine.  Standard quality SRAMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a vague possibility that you get your chain too clean, and the new lube doesn't get worked into the chain well enough.  But just a vague possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a possibility that you're a bit obsessive about all of this, and as a result have applied too much pressure to the chain stretch gauge and distorted it.  You should test your gauge on a new chain, and test one of your removed 0.75 chains at a bike shop, to make sure that your gauge is still good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T03:38:24.647" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T03:38:24.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2011-07-21T03:43:41.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to take a wild guess that it might be because you don't have fenders: that it doesn't matter how often or how well you maintain your chain, if it's filthy again within 5 minutes of getting on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://webmountainbike.com/prolinchainl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the usage instructions for your Pro Link lube&lt;/a&gt; suggest that you shouldn't be sticking your chain in a solvent: that there's a cleaner built in to the lube itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T03:53:57.863" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T03:53:57.863" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2011-07-21T04:16:36.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A new chain has factory installed lube inside on the bushings and pins. It is a thicker, stickier lube than anything you can put back on the chain after a cleaning which is that thorough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love that you take time to maintain the bike. Definitely check your chain checker, as Daniel said, but on your next chain, try relaxing the maintenance a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the chain by spraying a light citrus degreaser on a rag, folding the rag in the palm of your hand, and running the chain through the rag. This will clean the exterior and the accessible bits without soaking away the internal factory lube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once clean, lube the exterior of your chain with a quality lube (I like Boeshield T-9 or Dumonde Tech yellow) and wait 15-20 minutes. Then wipe off all excess lube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with your new chain, do that for the first 6 months, or until your fresh lube job sounds unlubed again within a few on the bike hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that is not working, go back to your current method. I'd say do the complete strip and relube once a month, with the process described above on the in between weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After your next chain, let us know if and how your mileage changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T04:16:36.983" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4980" CreationDate="2011-07-21T05:31:20.253" Score="50" ViewCount="96737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was chatting to the guys at my LBS the other day about how they get my bike so clean when I take it in for a service. They said they use compressed air to clean it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They warned I shouldn't use any high pressure water because it can get into the sealed bearings and cause damage. I also noted on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/10s_Power_torque.pdf&quot;&gt;user manual for Campag cranks&lt;/a&gt; (right at the end) that you should &quot;Never spray your bicycle with water under pressure&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much of an issue is this? Rinsing the bike with the hose is such a convenient way to wash off loose grit and then the soap after washing. How do you clean your bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T14:00:49.510" Title="Is it really going to damage a bike to wash it with a hose?" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4979" CreationDate="2011-07-21T09:05:03.057" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, pressurized water can damage your bicycle, specifically by washing the grease out of bearing areas. Note, this is &lt;em&gt;pressurized&lt;/em&gt; water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a garden hose without a sprayer is unlikely to do damage. Using a garden hose with a shower type sprayer is unlikely to cause damage. Low pressure, so that it doesn't break the seals, is the point. (I avoid the risk, anyway, because I can't afford to be wrong, and how much pressure is OK depends on the strength of the seals on your particular bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car wash, or any other pressure washer, is pretty much guaranteed to do damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Washing by hand, with a bucket, a car wash brush, a toothbrush or gear brush, and some non-detergent based soap is the safest way, and with a little practice and preparation, can be done in half an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some detergent based soaps react to aluminum, and can cause serious damage to an aluminum frame or parts over time. Make sure you use an aluminum safe soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make things easier by using a repair stand to hold the bike, and removing some parts, if you have the tools and knowledge, but that's a bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, it's just elbow grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T12:31:34.050" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T12:31:34.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4979" CreationDate="2011-07-21T10:58:38.477" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the garden hose without sprayer, just using your thumb to spray.  Avoid spraying hard/long at bearing areas.  And when you do spray at a bearing, do it obliquely, not straight into the bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just let the bike be dirty.  That doesn't hurt it either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Compressed air can damage a bike too, if used improperly, by driving dirt into the bearings.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T10:58:38.477" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2011-07-21T13:09:34.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yMpgb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;20 sign&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=5176&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;20 mph speed limits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A review of 20 mph zones in London found that there was an average&#xA;  reduction in casualties of 42%, compared with an 8% reduction in&#xA;  surrounding areas. Although injuries amongst cyclists reduced at a&#xA;  lower rate than other users (only 17%), this does not take account of&#xA;  the fact that cycling levels increased much more than for other modes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So lower speed limits result in fewer injuries to cyclists, even with increased numbers of cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T13:09:34.670" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-21T13:09:34.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4979" CreationDate="2011-07-21T14:48:46.073" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning a bike with high pressure water is relatively tame and only mildly morally wrong if you really do not know what you are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot more fun can be had with a diesel powered steam cleaner where the water-cleaning-solution-mix comes out at a toasty 150 degrees centigrade and the 'wand' has to be held with both hands due to the 'recoil'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pass the 'wand' over the three main tubes of a bicycle and you can sometimes pull off the stickers in one smooth motion. Stick a 1980's Peugeot racing bike in the way of the 'wand' and you can get down to bare steel. (Temperature dial has to be adjusted for Peugeot and Halfords own-brand bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the bike upside down and well supported so it does not get instantly blown over by the onslaught of water and point the 'wand' at the wheels, in next to no time they spin at a very fast rate and every speck of grease and grime gets to be washed away. A quick point at the hubs and they are in as-new appearance. The same goes for the chain, even the most encrusted chain gets to be denuded of all lubricants in seconds. Handlebar tape - same again, back to as new except for cuts and holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the bikes I washed so environmentally-unfriendily were customer repairs or part-exchanges to be sold on as second hand bikes. A thorough inspection was given afterwards and areas needing oil/GT85 were treated accordingly. The oily-rag was used for the Allen-key bolts and other steel nuts where the chrome surface was likely to be damaged. A quick polish and the appearance was so much better than achievable by other means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did test-ride many of the bikes 'abused' by industrial cleaning methods and we also had customer feedback. On one or two occasions I did inadvertently get water into the bottom bracket or freewheel, this was not the problem though, it was dirt forced in that was the problem. I learned through trial and error not to assault such areas and to give the Peugeot models an easier time due to that water-soluble-paint problem they had. Not once did we ever get a customer complaint, people were always very pleased with getting their bikes back looking as good as new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I put my own bike under the 'wand' of the steam cleaner? Most definitely, even my retro-Campagnolo road bike (that has no sealed bearings). The 150 degree water would heat the frame/components so that on a summer's day it would be dry in a matter of minutes with not a speck of dirt left behind. The air + water + steel combination needed for rust to bloom was therefore kept to the absolute minimum of time. My bikes did not rust prematurely or have mystery rattles from the freehub or bottom bracket area. As a consequence of having cleaned the bike so quickly and thoroughly I was able to spend more time re-lubing my bike than I might have had otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had I only have had a bucket of soapy water and hose to clean my bike with I doubt I would have done such a good job, however, that is all I have now to clean my bike with. I use clothes washing powder for the soapy water and give the bearing areas a very wide berth. Same with the hose, I don't point it at the hubs or bottom bracket. I find that riding the bike is a good way to dry it off, plus sticking it under that unshielded nuclear fusion reactor that passes overhead 93 million miles away on most days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact of the matter is that anything you use to wash your bike with can push dirt into the bearings. But using water under pressure is not necessarily worse than using the sort of baby's toothbrush that archaeologists use to clean up a Sumerian tablet. The reason being that a jet of water will take the path of least resistance. That isn't necessarily straight into the bearings for there is a rubber seal in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a manufacturer's perspective with parts that come back under warranty, you obviously do not want to encourage 'idiots with steam cleaners' or to recommend any type of pressure washing. However, from my practical experience with hundreds of bicycles I know that pressure washing is best done all the way with 150 degrees hot water and that in some cases you can inadvertently wash the grease out of bearings. The risk is definitely worth taking, even on your own bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I do take my bike to the local car wash these days and let the guys there clean up my bike. I don't know what chemical they use in their bucket of soapy water but it seems to work wonders on my alloy wheels. Last time I had to force them to take my money, the time before they wanted all of £2. If you have a garage nearby and have a sense of adventure/humour I recommend giving the car-wash guys a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T14:54:15.837" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T14:54:15.837" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2011-07-21T15:17:50.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question relates to a chain on a fixie, i.e. with no derailleur shifting it up and down onto different sized cogs, some of which being ludicrously small 11T or smaller in size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 1950's Raleigh Sports Roadster has what I suspect to be the original chain on it. Obviously I did not have the bike from new, however, it has probably done a few miles in its time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for my commuter bike, because I did not change the chain when I should have done, I am now deliberately running it into the ground, seeing how long the chain will actually last. It started skipping on the small cog somewhere after the 10000 mile mark and it has recently lost another gear. It also slides off the chainring when on the big cog at the back so it looks like it is rapidly heading to become something like a single-speed or 3-speed. The bushes are distinctly conical shaped and it is probably only the build up of dirt that holds it together. I digress, however a chain can last a very long time and then keep going long after it should have been replaced. You would have to be an idiot though to see exactly how long a chain can last...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that your cleaning regime is a bit over the top. Kerosene/paraffin is better than gas/petrol however, in the days when I did soak my chain in paraffin I always found it to be slightly 'crunchy' when I put it back onto the bike. The problem being that the grease in the internals has been dissolved away and replaced by what can best be described as oil. Oil is not the right stuff for in there, grease is, and no matter what you do it is not possible to get the grease back in there properly. As a consequence the chain will wear more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, effectively, you are damaging the chain! All that hard effort and it is going badly wrong! So, for the next chain, stick it on to a clean set of chainring/cog. Do not add any extra lube. After you wash down your bike put a smidgen of your Pro-link lube on it and no more - any more will attract the dirt and the dirt will wear the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that there are chains out there on 3-speed bikes that have only seen sparing amounts of 'all-in-one' lawnmower oil over a timespan of decades, and that these chains are stretched no more than yours is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T15:17:50.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4964" CreationDate="2011-07-21T15:29:11.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That bike looks great as it is. Keep as is, if you do have a flat bar kicking around in the garage it will not do any harm to mention that you also have that for sale e.g. for a tenner and are prepared to swap the bars over for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixies are supposed to be like single-speed track bikes and the drop-bar is part and parcel of the look if it is to be kept 'pure'. You do have to think of your market, you will be looking for a customer wanting the 'track-bike inspired faux messenger' look above a practical means of transport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to keep the seat for your next rig. If you are to change anything see if you can pick up a red seat out of your LBS workshop's bin of spare parts or get a red seat cover for the seat that is on there. That will complete the look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T15:29:11.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4967" CreationDate="2011-07-21T15:37:21.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few factors not mentioned here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much do you weigh?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do kerbs get taken to?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the broken spokes on the cassette side?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These factors come into play with the general question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of the specifics you gave, sadly the Bontrager wheels on Trek hybrids are not the best and are most definitely prone to spoke breakages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sales guy you 'spoke' to probably knows this due to what gets booked into the workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T15:37:21.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4954" CreationDate="2011-07-21T15:42:02.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I think that the straight bar encourages the elbows to stick out unless you consciously remember to put your thumbs on the top of the bar, therefore not very aerodynamic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could consider putting some mini-tri-bars on your bike to give yourself another tucked in riding position that you can use when you don't have to be near the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T15:42:02.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4993" CreationDate="2011-07-21T15:48:30.220" Score="7" ViewCount="116792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find what kind of brand/make my bike is so I can find more information about it. It might help me determine if I should buy a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I can tell from looking around my bike are the words 'Challenger' and 'Resistance'. It's a hand-me-down mountain bike, I haven't got a manual or receipt for the bike so I suspect there must be some way of finding out otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searched for 'Challenger Resistance' on the web and the best result I received was from &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CHALLENGER-RESISTANCE-MOUNTAIN-BIKE-NEW-LIGHTWEIGHT-/260751510482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an auction on eBay&lt;/a&gt; of an identical bike. Here's what my bike looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6gDMX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know &lt;strong&gt;how&lt;/strong&gt; to identify bikes. I think that would be more valuable then If someone told me what brand I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2019-06-19T17:37:38.443" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T17:37:38.443" Title="What make/brand is this bike marked &quot;Challenger&quot; and &quot;Resistance&quot;?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1343" CreationDate="2011-07-21T15:50:21.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK the general idea is to not go mountain biking on the 'tourist' paths that walkers use. In most cases these paths, e.g. in Snowdonia, are not open to cyclists anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if you are on a path used by walkers then you go at a fairly pedestrian speed and give them lots of room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are other trails that are not so popular with walkers and you kind of expect to have them to yourself. Negotiating the terrain without falling off is really the name of the game and 'oh there could be a walker ahead' is not really what you are thinking about. Equally they might not be expecting mountain bikes to be heading their way. So, even with the best of intentions, there are occasions when mountain bikers will set a bad example to others enjoying the great outdoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T15:50:21.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2011-07-21T16:00:43.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a 'Bicycle Shaped Object' with any-old name plastered on the frame. It is 'off-brand'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years ago it was possible to identify bikes by the quality of the welds, shapes of the lugs, shapes of the dropouts and choice of components. However, with 'Bicycle Shaped Objects' this is sadly not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably countless variants of this exact same item with different labels on at your local supermarket, in Halfords and other places that should not really be in the bicycle business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not worry too much about the brand, just enjoy riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T16:00:43.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2011-07-21T16:50:40.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on this picture, it looks like it was most likely purchased at a department store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how knowing the brand will help you decide whether or not you will get a new bike. IMO the main criteria for determining this would be function and comfort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T16:50:40.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2011-07-21T16:56:49.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual method of identifying a bike is what you've done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brand and model are usually part of the decals on the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike, for example, says Scott on the downtube, and CR1 Pro on the toptube near the headset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is Swiss made, and the model stands for comfort road 1, and Pro tells you what parts were on it originally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no decals, an experienced mechanic or shop owner can usually identify most common frames. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike is very basic, at best, and most people would not consider it safe for use on off road trails. I would recommend looking for a shop quality mountain bike. You will enjoy riding more, and that is what it's all about.  Feel free to ask if you need more information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T16:56:49.957" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4994" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-21T20:55:50.370" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T22:07:45.403" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T22:07:45.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4995" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-21T20:55:50.370" Score="0" Body="Deprecated. Don't use this tag. Instead use tags for the continent, country, area within a larger country and/or major city as appropriate. E.g. &quot;europe italy&quot; or &quot;us new-york&quot;." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T19:50:04.507" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T19:50:04.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4996" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-21T20:58:25.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Handlebars are the part of the bike where the rider holds onto for grip and steering of the bike. There are many &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_handlebar#Types_of_handlebar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;types of handlebars&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T21:51:34.247" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T21:51:34.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4997" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-21T20:58:25.097" Score="0" Body="Handlebars are the part of the bike where the rider holds onto for grip and steering of the bike. " OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T22:02:08.453" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T22:02:08.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4998" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-21T22:09:31.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tags for different kinds of brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/disc-brake&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;disc-brake&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;disc-brake&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/hydraulic-disc-brake&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;hydraulic-disc-brake&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;hydraulic-disc-brake&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/rim-brake&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;rim-brake&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;rim-brake&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/drum-brakes&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;drum-brakes&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;drum-brakes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/coaster&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;coaster&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;coaster&lt;/a&gt; brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other related tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/brake-pads&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;brake-pads&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;brake-pads&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/brake-levers&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;brake-levers&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;brake-levers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fixed-gear&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fixed-gear&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fixed-gear&lt;/a&gt; allows for an entirely different kind of braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T17:15:38.290" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T17:15:38.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4999" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-21T22:09:31.657" Score="0" Body="Disc/rim/drum/coaster brakes; braking technique, maintaining brakes, anything else about stopping a bike. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T00:15:04.007" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T00:15:04.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5000" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-21T22:10:30.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/375/maintenance-and-repair-tags-is-one-or-both-of-these-superflous&quot;&gt;this thread in meta&lt;/a&gt; for more information on the differences between the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/repair&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'repair'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;repair&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/maintenance&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'maintenance'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;maintenance&lt;/a&gt; tags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T17:44:45.463" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T17:44:45.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5001" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-21T22:10:30.720" Score="0" Body="Repairing your bike when something is broken. REPAIR is not the same as MAINTENANCE, a separate tag. Repair is what one does only when something is broken. Maintenance is what one does on a regular basis. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:22:28.010" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:22:28.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5002" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-21T22:10:57.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of kinds of cycling-specific clothes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shorts can be baggy (popular with MTBers) or tight spandex (popular with road cyclists and tourers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tights and leggings cover the whole leg for harsher weather&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jerseys cover the torso. They can be short- or long-sleeved, tight or baggy. Thin, breathable material is common, but there are thicker, warmer ones for hot weather. They often have pockets at the back for access while riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arm or leg warmers are worn with shorts and short-sleeved jerseys in colder weather.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waterproof jackets, trousers, and overshoes keep other clothes dry in wet weather.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special-purpose shoes might include cleats for &quot;clipless&quot; pedals, and often have stiffer soles for better power transfer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hats and other headgear protect the head from hot or cold weather, or rain. &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/helmets&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'helmets'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;helmets&lt;/a&gt; have their own tag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Utility and urban cyclists tend to just wear everyday clothes, and questions about these are appropriate for this tag too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T22:13:29.767" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T22:13:29.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5003" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-21T22:10:57.083" Score="0" Body="The clothes you wear when riding, whether they're bike-specific or everyday." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T21:22:38.910" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T21:22:38.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4685" CreationDate="2011-07-22T04:57:14.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always be careful about carbon fiber and collisions.  Carbon fiber is light and strong, but it's very fragile and can break unexpectedly because you can't always see the cracks.  In one of my collegiate mtb short track races, a guy snapped his carbon fiber handlebar at the stem after a 1' drop because the handlebar took abuse over time.  When it lost all strength, the effect on the equipment was catastrophic.  So in your case, if the crash was strong enough to throw you over the hood of the car to the other side, it probably messed up the carbon fork, even if you can't see it.  When riding bikes, I've found the fork to be particularly useful, so certainly have the fork checked out, but be prepared to junk it for your own safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T04:57:14.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-22T05:40:05.537" Score="10" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google's Sergey Brin &lt;a href=&quot;https://plus.google.com/u/0/109813896768294978296/posts/dbi1H4sRFoP&quot;&gt;asked for recommendations&lt;/a&gt; on buying a recumbent. What factors should he consider when evaluating alternatives? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of getting a recumbent road bike even though +Dylan Casey will laugh at me. I would like to get a nice mix of performance, comfort and safety. So, probably 20'ish pounds, not too upright, not too flat, good visibility, maybe an optional fairing, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="201" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T05:41:48.733" LastActivityDate="2017-08-10T09:50:44.523" Title="Things to consider when choosing a recumbent" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5006" CreationDate="2011-07-22T05:44:48.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personal recommendation is to think about wheel base and where you want the steering. I hear that long wheel base is more stable and faster, but I chose short wheel base so I could load it on the bus rack sometimes. Above-seat steering is more common, and I think it's easier to learn, but I chose below-seat steering because it seemed like a more relaxed position for my arms. As a bonus, I found that during a crash, below-seat steering means that you're completely above the bike and you don't get tangled up with it as you go down. I found myself sliding along the ground, all by myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="201" LastEditorUserId="201" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T19:35:10.273" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T19:35:10.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5006" CreationDate="2011-07-22T06:04:03.753" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this should be a given, &lt;em&gt;ride&lt;/em&gt; the bike before you buy it. Not for 5 minutes in a parking lot, but for a real, decent ride. Any shop specializing in 'bents will understand that if you are making your first recumbent purchase, it's a leap of faith, and will be accommodating. That is also a reason to buy your recumbent from a specialty shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Credit for the following goes to @Don Kirby above, I'm including it here as well for completeness in one answer. If he wants to edit, and add the above paragraph, or similar, I'll delete this answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about wheel base and where you want the steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheelbase: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hear that long wheel base is more stable and faster, but I chose short wheel base so I could load it on the bus rack sometimes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above seat steering is more common and I think it's easier to learn, but I chose below seat steering because it seemed like a more relaxed position for my arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that during a crash, below seat steering means that your completely above the bike and you don't get tangled up with it as you go down. I found myself sliding along the ground, all by myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T06:04:03.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5010" CreationDate="2011-07-22T06:25:01.427" Score="9" ViewCount="3496" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US, we're in the middle of a heat wave. Temperatures are topping 100 degrees F and up in some areas. When touring, how should one's eating and drinking before and during a ride be changed to deal with heat like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't chicken out, I'll be touring this weekend. I've ridden in temperatures like this before, but I'd like to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual way I deal with heat is to drink lots of water, eat properly, reapply sunscreen more often, and don't ride too hard; conserve energy and take a break during the hottest part of the day. (Noon to three, in my experience.) I keep my helmet padding wet, and make sure to eat salty food. However, I'm not sure if I should eat and drink the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; kinds of things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For during-the-ride food, I've packed dried fruit, nuts, trail mix, energy bars, and I have five water bottles that I keep topped off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll have a camping load - around 40 pounds of stuff - and I usually keep a pace of around 10mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ride will be mostly on the roads, in the Pine Barrens of New Jersey, so there won't be all that much climbing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specifically:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I stick with protein the night before the ride and carbs after, or does the heat bring different requirements to the table? I'm a vegetarian when away from home, so that restricts what I can eat for my lunch breaks. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the past, I've eschewed sports drinks, but is important that I ingest electrolytes? Should I start looking into sports drinks? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T10:05:13.670" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T03:27:52.740" Title="How to eat properly when cycling in extreme heat?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5009" CreationDate="2011-07-22T09:49:34.693" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is extremely important that you eat and drink properly when cycling in extremes of temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Dubai, where riding in the summer means riding regularly in 50c temperatures, this is a major problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eating is less of a concern than hydration, but you want to avoid dehydrators, like alcohol, in your food. You also want to watch what spices and additives are present in your food, like high salt content, but your standard diet as noted (High protein  the night before, and carbs after a ride and assuming unsalted nuts and trail mix) should be fine to ensure energy. (Too much salt in one go can upset the stomach by drawing water into the gut, especially if you're already dehydrated. So it needs to be in small doses.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid sugary drinks, stick mainly with water, and electrolyte replacement drinks with low sugar content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Desert survival expert Marjorie Woodruff recommends drinking a few ounces of water every 1o minutes if water is limited, and a minimum of 1 liter every 45 minutes if water is readily available. Electrolyte replacement s fairly essential, but can be accomplished far more inexpensively using a product like &lt;a href=&quot;http://eletewater.com/&quot;&gt;Elete Water&lt;/a&gt; because it can be carried easily, and a very small container is an effective add in to about 25 liters of water. It's mostly tasteless, but in our experience here in Dubai, very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proper clothing is essential. Cover your skin. Do not rely solely on sunscreens, as they do not prevent dehydration, although they are better than nothing. Better yet, do both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another essential in hot weather cycling, especially while touring, and deadly essential if touring unsupported is the ability to recognize and understand what is happening when you are affected by heat, and what it feels like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/exercise/HQ00316&quot;&gt;This article from the Mayo Clinic&lt;/a&gt; has a pretty thorough examination of exercise in hot weather, and what the dangers and effect are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How to avoid heat-related illnesses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you exercise in hot weather, keep these precautions in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Watch the temperature. Pay attention to weather forecasts and heat&#xA;  alerts. Know what the temperature is expected to be for the duration&#xA;  of your planned outdoor activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Get acclimated. If you're used to exercising indoors or in cooler&#xA;  weather, take it easy at first when you exercise in the heat. As your&#xA;  body adapts to the heat over the course of one to two weeks, gradually&#xA;  increase the length and intensity of your workouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Know your fitness level. If you're unfit or new to exercise, be extra&#xA;  cautious when working out in the heat. Your body may have a lower&#xA;  tolerance to the heat. Reduce your exercise intensity and take&#xA;  frequent breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drink plenty of fluids. Dehydration is a key factor in heat illness.&#xA;  Help your body sweat and cool down by staying well hydrated with&#xA;  water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Don't wait until you're thirsty to drink. If you plan to exercise&#xA;  intensely or for longer than one hour, consider a sports drink instead&#xA;  of water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sports drinks can replace the sodium, chloride and potassium you lose&#xA;  through sweating. Avoid  alcoholic drinks because they can actually&#xA;  promote fluid loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dress appropriately. Lightweight, loosefitting clothing helps sweat&#xA;  evaporate and keeps you cooler. Avoid dark colors, which can absorb&#xA;  heat. If possible, wear a light-colored, wide-brimmed hat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Avoid midday sun. Exercise in the morning or evening, when it's likely&#xA;  to be cooler outdoors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If possible, exercise in shady areas — or do a water workout in a&#xA;  pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wear sunscreen. A sunburn decreases your body's ability to cool&#xA;  itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have a backup plan. If you're concerned about the heat or humidity,&#xA;  stay indoors. Work out at the gym, walk laps inside the mall or climb&#xA;  stairs inside an air-conditioned building. Understand your medical&#xA;  risks. Certain medical conditions or medications can increase your&#xA;  risk of a heat-related illness. If you plan to exercise in the heat,&#xA;  talk to your doctor about precautions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Heat-related illnesses are largely preventable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;By taking some basic precautions, your exercise routine doesn't have&#xA;  to be sidelined when the heat is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T12:53:54.033" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T12:53:54.033" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5015" CreationDate="2011-07-22T10:13:53.137" Score="-1" ViewCount="1131" Body="&lt;p&gt;we are looking to buy some new aluminium training rollers, but have no experience as to what brands deliver the best quality for the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In mind are the CycleOps and JetBlack brands, both of whom do aluminium rollers at around £150-170. Can anyone provide any positive or negative experiences with any of these brands, or know of better products in the same price range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks,&#xA;Neil (UK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T18:31:01.433" Title="Aluminium training rollers - seeking feedback on brands" Tags="&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4740" CreationDate="2011-07-22T11:35:48.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am also interested in best practice for signals that I can use with other road users, e.g. to let someone in a large-box-for-one-person know that I understand that it is their right of way - the equivalent of a flash of the headlights as it were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following aren't official or best practice, necessarily, but my experience is that drivers seem to behave as if they understand them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like a sweeping gesture with the whole arm, as if opening a door; or a beckoning. Big gestures, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.indiandrivingschools.com/hand-signals-by-policeman.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like these&lt;/a&gt;, except that mine are meant to be seen as a motion (by one car) instead of static (by several cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To wave someone past me at a 4-way stop I use a hand gesture like shooing a fly away from in front of my face (the 'Australian salute') ... with a limp wrist, so it ends with my forearm vertical and my hand pointing in the direction of travel. Wearing gloves might add to the effect/visibility/authority of the gesture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be explicit that I'm not going anywhere until after they do, e.g. for a bus or a dump truck, I sit up, hands off the handle-bars; and put one hand or two on my hips; and wait. I also do this when I'm stopped in a bike lane and looking behind me (so that everyone knows that I'm stopped), waiting to cross through lanes of traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T11:35:48.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5009" CreationDate="2011-07-22T12:05:41.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dehydration is probably your biggest worry in the heat. Checking the colour of your urine is one way to tell if you're becoming dehydrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OwSf4.gif&quot; alt=&quot;colour chart&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fresh fruit contains water so would be preferable to dried fruit, but obviously it's less convenient to transport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used sports drinks when running (specifically Lucozade Sport) and I find it helps, but that may just be psychological. Some sports drinks contain significant amounts of caffeine, I would avoid those as large doses of caffeine can have a diuretic effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bmj.com/content/345/bmj.e4848&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; in the British Medical Journal describes the limitations in using urine colour to assess hydration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom line: urine colour as a measure of hydration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;General public&lt;/em&gt;—Evidence is lacking to suggest that urine colour is a useful, safe, or accurate marker of hydration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Professional athletes&lt;/em&gt;—Limited evidence to show that first morning urine colour can be reliably used to assess dehydration and rehydration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T13:47:10.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5011" CreationDate="2011-07-22T12:30:39.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kreitler.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kreitler&lt;/a&gt; is widely considered to be the best. They are expensive, but if you read the reviews, you may be convinced!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T12:30:39.937" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5011" CreationDate="2011-07-22T13:05:08.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tacx.com/en/producten/rollenbanken/antares/index.dot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tacx Antares&lt;/a&gt;. The rollers are heavy duty, coated aluminum, and are tapered to help self center your bike on the rollers. They are quiet and durable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: Apparently the current Antares doesn't use aluminum rollers any more. Mine does, but it's 3 years old.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, they collapse to a length of 80cm, and have a bag available separately for traveling with them. Like Kreitler, replacement parts and service are readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pricing is in the range requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/927MM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tacx Antares Rollers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-23T18:31:01.433" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T18:31:01.433" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-22T14:16:25.600" Score="1" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many styles of socks.  Plus there are always debates on the best looking socks for group road rides.  White, black, short, tall, logos, etc.....  Some old school road purists say that black socks are for mtb only.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do go about picking the best style? Is there any reason to prefer one style over another? Are there other properties of socks that matter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1542" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T16:20:13.740" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T16:20:13.740" Title="Bicycle Socks for Road Rides" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5016" CreationDate="2011-07-22T15:04:13.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find socks that &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; like the look of, that are comfortable for &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;, and fit in &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; price range. And don't worry about the rest -- they are socks after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T15:04:13.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5016" CreationDate="2011-07-22T15:47:42.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear only CoolMax socks.  I find they do a good job of keeping my feet dry and non-sweaty, and they don't tend to mat -- they maintain some &quot;loft&quot; and padding ability, even after hours of riding.  They also wear like iron.  The only down-side is that they get dingy looking fairly quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer the low-rise style (just above the ankle), but that's in part because I have a mild sensory processing disorder and find high-rise socks uncomfortable in all contexts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color doesn't matter to me -- I generally go for muted colors because I'm color blind and can't tell what color combo looks good and what doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T15:47:42.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5016" CreationDate="2011-07-22T15:48:07.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly recommend socks that can breathe easily and that absorb and wick away sweat.  That means probably not cotton athletic socks you'd get in bulk at a warehouse store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personal preference determines the coloration and logos, and if you're worried about style, get socks that match your kit and your shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if your alma mater has a cycling team, contact them and see if you can buy team socks.  You'll be able to show school pride wherever you're riding, and they'll be quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T15:48:07.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5022" CreationDate="2011-07-22T16:02:17.540" Score="10" ViewCount="11261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of taking part in a cycling event, I'd like to do something that's about as challenging as running a half marathon (13 miles / 21 km). Approximately what distance should I be looking at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think in principal this could be worked out with a heart-rate monitor (if I had one): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walk or run for (say) 15 minutes, note the heart rate and the&#xA;distance traveled &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycle for the same length of time with the same&#xA;heart rate and note the distance traveled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T03:12:54.970" Title="How much easier is cycling compared to walking or running?" Tags="&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;randonneuring&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5016" CreationDate="2011-07-22T16:09:10.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the Castelli Rosso Corsa 6. they are thin, light feeling, durable, and generally have good graphic style. Graphics are always personal taste, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are a 6cm ankle. Just high enough to be certain they will not slip down, but not tall socks. They also come in a 10cm height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Socks, in the end, are just socks, but every detail matters. I prefer the white, with black accents. Our club socks are also a custom version of this sock. It is very popular here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MQy68.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Castelli Rosso Corsa 6&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T16:38:34.190" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T16:38:34.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5020" CreationDate="2011-07-22T16:23:27.940" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know calorie counts vary quite a bit, but a rough ballpark for cycling at a 20 mph pace is 450 calories per 15 minutes according to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://calorielab.com/burned/&quot;&gt;calorie calculator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running a 6 minute mile is expected to burn a similar 450 calorie count on the same calculator with the same settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you do the math, and the calculator is assumed to be reasonably accurate, then 5 miles on a bike at 20mph, is roughly equivalent to 1 mile run at a very fast pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running a half marathon, which is 13 miles, and ignoring any difference due to endurance of effort, 13 miles at full pace running could be assumed to be a similar effort to 65 miles on a bike, in a very general sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is dependent on fitness, body weight, and many other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best method to work it out would be to measure power expended, but I don't know how to do that for running, and to be accurate, you'd need to do it yourself, and for the full distance of the half marathon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T16:23:27.940" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-07-22T19:12:24.097" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember which way to go by turning the pedal wrench toward the back of the bike because to undo the pedal, you have to go backward.  To tighten the pedals, turn it toward the front because once you have the pedals on, you can go forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T19:12:24.097" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-22T19:49:45.700" Score="2" ViewCount="32479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my wheel off my front forks to repair a puncture.  I had the bike upside down when I removed the wheel.  When I came to replace the wheel back into the fork slots, the hydraulic disk calipers were too tight to accept the brake disc. I had to use something to prize open the calipers so the gap was wide enough.  When I span the wheel it's still to tight and the calipers still make contact with the disc. Is there any reason why the calipers are now tighter and how do I fix the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1532" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T04:47:27.567" Title="How do I fix sticking/tight hydraulic brake calipers?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="990" CreationDate="2011-07-22T20:09:07.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few pointers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On most roads the crown of the road (center) is uphill for water drainage, so  turn your front wheel towards the center to give your forward pedal stroke some natural resitance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take your hands off the brake levers once you achieve your initial balance. You will maintain position by varying a slight pedal pressure against (a) any natural uphill (like the crown of the road) or (b) leaning to make the bike roll slightly backwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visualize the front wheel, rear wheel and your torso (hips through shoulders) as forming a tripod. the base width vs. height of the tripod can be changed by (1) pedal pressure, (2) standing height (taller vs lower on cross bar or (3) forward/back body position (you can get way out over the handlebars in a track stand)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't fight to hold a track stand on crummy terrain (ex: pointed down a steep hill) or on days you just don't have it going on (like me after a night of drinking). The point is to conserve energy and look cool - if you're fighting it you'll accomplish neither.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep practicing - I commute daily through a busy city and almost always try to go from hopping on my ride to pulling into the garage without touching the ground. It's &quot;the ground is made of lava!&quot; for adults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1408" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T20:09:07.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5024" CreationDate="2011-07-22T20:11:59.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely, while you had the wheel out, the brake lever was pulled, and the piston position was reset too close to the disc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to remove the brake pads, and very gently push the pistons all the way back into the caliper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then replace the wheel, and pump the brake lever. It should take 2 or 3 pumps to feel normal again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T20:11:59.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5031" CreationDate="2011-07-22T20:15:13.850" Score="7" ViewCount="1100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering how people manage the required (and completed) maintenance for their bikes, especially when you have a couple each with completely different component sets (i.e. a road bike, a XC, a cruiser, etc). It seems most components are intended to get service every XX hours or miles or seasonally, while others when they're worn out or broken (I guess prevent extensive damage vs. replace wear &amp;amp; tear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a software developer so naturally thinking of building a web app for this (amongst other features) but would rather use something that already exists if it's available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for input on everything from &quot;I track it in a 3-ring notebook&quot; to &quot;my personal mechanic takes care of all that&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1408" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T18:58:05.377" Title="Manage and Track Maintenance Schedules" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;software&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5027" CreationDate="2011-07-22T21:21:23.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it breaks I fix it.  I check wear on the chain (with a stretch gauge) every few months, and when I need to replace my rear cluster (as evidenced by poor shifting) it's time to repack the bearings.  (This works out to about 5000 miles for me.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike kept inside in a dry environment doesn't deteriorate, save for the tires [and maybe, I suppose, hydraulic brake fluid].  (Yes, the lube does deteriorate, but it would take 30 years or so for it to be far enough gone to worry about.)  So no need for service every 3 months or some such -- it's purely based on mileage and wear-and-tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What can break??&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the things that can actually break on a bike are quite unpredictable.  If chain, sprockets, and bearings are serviced regularly, tires (and brake pads) replaced when worn/cracked, cables and shifters given a spot of lube occasionally, and the cables examined for fraying and wear on the same occasions, there isn't much else you can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spokes can break, but you don't know if that will be at 100 miles or 10K, so you basically have to wait for one or two to break to know that it's time to relace the wheel.  Freehub pawls, shifter pawls and springs, derailer springs, etc generally last forever but can fail without warning (though usually a bad pawl will begin to slip before it goes out entirely).  A broken chain is generally the result of a seriously worn drive train, serious maladjustment of the derailers, or really lousy shifting on the part of the cyclist.  Fork/frame failures occur, but only on bikes that have been seriously abused.  Blowouts, of course, can occur, but are largely insensitive to maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the most likely failure (other than tire problems) is simply a bolt falling out somewhere.  This is most common on racks and fenders, but can, eg, occur (in rare circumstances) on the bolt holding in a derailer idler wheel.  So tightening bolts isn't a bad thing to do occasionally (if you know which ones to tighten and how tight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T11:26:29.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-07-23T00:35:33.273" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple: To figure out which way something is threaded, figure out &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; it's threaded that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The reason for thread directions on rotating objects with lateral load&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the thread direction is NOT chosen so that friction from the rotating shaft will tend to tighten things.  If that were the case, pedals would be left-hand threaded on the right side and vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather, it has to do with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_%28mechanical%29&quot;&gt;precession&lt;/a&gt;.  If you hold a pencil loosely in your left hand while you move the end of the pencil around in a circle with your right hand, the pencil will tend to rotate in a direction opposite of the direction you're rotating the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you pedal a bike forward, the right pedal is moving in a counter-clockwise (or anti-clockwise, on the other side of the pond) direction, relative to the pedal shaft.  This produces the counter-intuitive (anti-intuitive on the other side of the pond) effect of driving the pedal shaft in a clockwise direction -- rightie-tightie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the same reason, English-threaded bottom bracket cups have a LEFT HAND thread on the right side, and vice-versa.  (The sneaky French and Italians just use Loctite and right-hand threads on both sides.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-07-24T20:07:50.087" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T20:07:50.087" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5020" CreationDate="2011-07-23T02:22:18.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use the calculator at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prohealth.com/weightloss/tools/exercise/calculator1_2.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.prohealth.com/weightloss/tools/exercise/calculator1_2.cfm&lt;/a&gt; at a weight of 165 lb then for bicycling at 14-16 mph &quot;vigorous effort&quot; it gives 750 calories/hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To spend 750 calories/hour running you need to run at 6mph (10 minute mile).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at that level of effort (750 calories/hour), to run 12 miles would take 2 hours, during which time you could cycle 30 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd find the running more challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T02:22:18.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5027" CreationDate="2011-07-23T04:01:25.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different philosophies about how much maintenance a bicycle needs, and on what schedule or basis it should be performed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I prefer to never be worried about whether my bikes will fail under me on a ride, I am more meticulous than most.  I currently have 4 bikes, each with different function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I service each bike when it's time to change the chain. I do that at 1000 miles ridden. I have yet to need more than chains, cables, and lubrication, and I've never had a more serous mechanical than a flat tire on a ride since I started this maintenance scheme. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question, though, is about how I keep track of that regime.  I've tried several things, including an Excel sheet, a Rails based web app I built, and just logging the miles on paper, but the problem with all of them is that they are dependent on me to remember to use them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given my chosen schedule, if I forget to log a day, or a week, of riding it's not going to hurt me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what I'd love to see is an iPhone/Android bike computer app with the ability to set more than 2 bikes, and to set maintenance reminders based on GPS miles logged for each bike. Perhaps with an &quot;x distance or y time, whichever comes first&quot; based reminder, with the mileage and timeframe user adjustable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Haven't found it yet though. My bike computer will let me set a mileage reminder, but I'd need one on each bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T04:01:25.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="616" CreationDate="2011-07-23T15:20:04.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A higher pressure will be faster and 'harder' (less suspension); a lower pressure will be slower (more rolling resistance) and smoother (it'll ooze over cracks and bumps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told that the 'max pressure' is just a guideline and that in practice you can go a little higher. I think my tires say 85 psi maximum, and I inflate them to 95 (not because I'm especially heavy but because I'd prefer to go faster with less effort than smoother).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T15:20:04.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5034" CreationDate="2011-07-23T16:31:11.397" Score="7" ViewCount="2888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've part stripped, and ultimately crossed the thread on my crank and can't remove my pedal now.  This was done whilst riding and then trying to remove the pedal from the damaged crank.  I figure the crank is toast but I want to remove the pedal without damaging it.  Does anyone have any simple way to do that?  My best theory at the moment is to use a hack saw to cut through and then either use a chisel to widen the gap or to then make another cut to free the pedal completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason I haven't just done that is that I'm worried about damaging the pedals threads.  I want to continue using this set of pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9FWZo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pedal wobbling about in crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the pedal, it wobbles about in the crank but I haven't managed to pull it out.  I tried pulling the pedal while someone undid the pedal but the thread appears to be too screwed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T19:56:17.480" Title="How do I remove a pedal from a crank with a crossed thread?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5033" CreationDate="2011-07-23T16:52:51.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing the pedal is toast too, but if I wanted to try to save it (and it refused to come out with simply a wrench and a hammer -- counter-clockwise on the right, clockwise on the left) I'd get out my trusty Dremel and make a slot or two in the crank, parallel to the pedal shaft.  (It won't hurt if you nick the pedal threads a little bit.)  Then drive a small cold chisel into the slots to spread them a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I do wonder how you managed to cross-thread the pedal and then ride on it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T16:52:51.420" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5033" CreationDate="2011-07-23T16:53:56.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best option is to put pressure on the back of the pedal spindle and try to thread it out. If that isn't working, since it sounds as if you have tried that, then cutting is likely your best bet. But the thread on the pedal is very likely damaged as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I'd trust using them in a new crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T16:53:56.790" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5020" CreationDate="2011-07-23T18:12:04.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have all been cycling up a hill at a 'snail's pace' to be huffing and puffing, sweating out of every pore, with heart mouth, to pass pedestrians/joggers that are making good progress without showing any signs of being on the verge of a heart attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arguably half-marathon by foot in flat terrain is going to be approximately as challenging as 13 miles cycled up an Alp. Therefore you are not able to compare apples and banana here, there is no distance or time comparison you can make. However, as a rule of thumb, cycling is four times as efficient as walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of sportive events around here send you up and down the big hills and the hills with challenging gradients. Although there is a descent for every ascent you don't make up on the freewheeling what you lost on the agonising climb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cycle events offer a variety of courses, you can sign up for the easy event and, part way through, if you are feeling good, take the full course loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wiggle 'Dragon' event in South Wales the other week has the difficult 'valleys' it also has the extended loop. The middle 120km distance in that terrain is more like your half marathon, the 200km more like your full marathon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T18:12:04.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5020" CreationDate="2011-07-23T19:43:12.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can run a half marathon, you probably have a nice endurance, that's good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However different sports use different muscles in different ways. So, say you run a half marathon in a bit more than 1 hour...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do an effort of the same intensity (which is very intense) on a bicycle for an hour, and you're not used to cycling :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some of your muscles which are used to running and not to cycling will complain a lot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your ass will hurt like hell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your back, neck, arms etc will hurt too if the bike isn't adjusted properly to you (and to adjust it you need to ride for quite some time and touch up the settings until they're perfect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the only way to know is to try !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T19:43:12.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4979" CreationDate="2011-07-23T19:50:47.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always wash my bikes with high pressure water jet (kärscher). It is excellent for cleaning chains and gears without the hassle of taking them off and rinsing through diesel. The only thing I clean is chain and gears ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only very important point is to never aim the water jet at the wrong places (ie, bearings). There are not so many bearings on a bike so it's not too difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T19:50:47.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2011-07-23T21:13:34.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycles of this type are churned out by the many thousands and simply &quot;branded&quot; to various distributors.  They are invariably very cheaply made; often with all-steel components and the lowest-possible level of brakes,shifters, and other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are as alike as peas in a pod otherwise.  Other than doing the normal sort of maintenance, lubing the chain, keeping fasteners tight... There's very little that needs to be done to them, and if some major part fails they are simply not worth repairing.&#xA;Around the university where I work, you see bikes identical to yours branded as &quot;Pacific&quot;, &quot;Next&quot;, &quot;Magna&quot;, and various others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T21:13:34.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5033" CreationDate="2011-07-24T09:58:23.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I re-read and you mean the pedal! not the crank, sorry for the confusion...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pedal is probably ruined, and I doubt you can re-use it, a damaged thread is unrecoverable, but depending on the pedal, you can unscrue parts of it to salvage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is my mistaken answer about removing a crank:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened to me recently, and my &lt;em&gt;solution&lt;/em&gt; was to hammer the crank (knowing that it will become useless, — it was anyway, since the threads were destroyed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I did it was to place the crank (the part that connects to the bottom bracket) on top of a vice and then hammer it hard (I mean &lt;strong&gt;hard&lt;/strong&gt;, a soft blow won't work). Hammer as much as you can until it gets out. The main problem with this method is that it may ruin the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The objective is to deform the crank so that it comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, a metal crank is harder to remove, whereas an aluminum one is easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, (I can't really tell from the image you posted) if the crack has a plastic surrounding it, remove it, because hammering with the plastic cover won't have the same effect as without it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one of my attempts, I sawed the crank hoping to make it fragile enough for it to come out, but trust me, it doesn't really work and this will most definitely ruin the bottom bracket...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, and if none of the previous worked, you can remove the bottom bracket (BB) from the frame (depending on the BB type, the old ones can be removed), you can use a pipe wide enough to fit around the BB, and hammer the pipe so it loosens the crank. This one is the toughest method and I've one crank that will be subjected to this method when I return from my holidays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastEditorUserId="1280" LastEditDate="2011-07-24T11:44:23.667" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T11:44:23.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5042" CreationDate="2011-07-24T16:14:48.210" Score="29" ViewCount="40834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've often read / seen on TV that the race is won by the end of the penultimate day. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/2011/jul/23/cadel-evans-tour-de-france-champion-elect&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; in the Guardian describes this year's (2011) eventual winner as the champion elect in an article on the close of the penultimate day. The final day seems to be left to the sprinters.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this? Surely if the top two riders are very close the guy in second place can go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-07-20T03:21:51.967" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T20:10:47.487" Title="Why can't Yellow Jersey change hands on last day of Tour De France?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;tour-de-france&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5041" CreationDate="2011-07-24T16:58:30.450" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tradition, and the layout of the final stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tradition holds that the last stage is a victory parade for the GC contender, and the yellow jersey. Cadel Evans rode a good part of the 2011 final stage, once in Paris, with champagne in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the layout of the stage, a 95 km flat ride finishing with multiple laps around the Champs Elysees, and culminating in a bunch sprint, rarely allows the opportunity for any major time to be gained. So unless they are within seconds, as in the 1989 Greg Lemond win by 8 seconds over Laurent Fignon, the last stage will rarely play a part in the GC standings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vGuvP.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Champs Elysees Stage Profile&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As is stated in the description of the stage on the letour.fr page today:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every other time, it has been a road stage that has been decided in a bunch sprint, except on four occasions. Those exceptions were the victories taken by Alain Meslet in 1977, Bernard Hinault in 1979, Eddy Seigneur in 1994 and Alexandre Vinokourov in 2005. It is incredibly hard to get a telling gap on this stage when breakaway riders are always within sight of the peloton.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know that a breakaway will not gain you minutes, why risk the ire of the other riders, and your public by messing with the traditions of the race?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things that has always brought an audience back to this race above all others are the traditions of fair play and honorable conduct that are embodied by traditions like the one that allows a crashed race leader to regain his time by the other riders, before the race continues. These unwritten traditions are not rules, but they make this race special.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combine the two, and you will rarely see a major change on the last day. It can, and does happen. Just not often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T03:12:42.803" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T03:12:42.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-24T20:47:24.113" Score="11" ViewCount="8777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am replacing my chainset and chain, as its totaly worn and causing the chain to jump off when I pedal. The cassette is fairly worn too, but is not causing any problems. If I buy a new chain and chainset will these wear out a lot quicker if I leave the old cassette on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-24T21:46:51.317" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T17:00:16.197" Title="if I replace chainset and chain should I replace back cassette as well?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5043" CreationDate="2011-07-24T21:20:24.343" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll probably need to replace the cassette as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally once the chain has worn (&quot;stretched&quot;) a little, it starts to wear down all the gears (front and back) that it touches. If there's enough wear that the front chainrings need to be replaced, it's almost certain that the gears on the cassette that you use most are also worn enough to need replacing. Usually the gears on the cassette will wear faster than the chainrings simply because they're smaller (so each individual tooth gets more wear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new chain will wear faster if the cassette is worn out, but a chain is generally cheaper to replace than a cassette. It should only wear the chainrings if you let the chain wear go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can look for signs of wear on the cassette, it will mostly be in the form of the teeth being thinner, often with a sort of &quot;shark fin&quot; appearance (sloped on one side). It's likely some gears (your favorites) will be worn more than others, which can give you something to compare against. If you can see signs of wear you should replace the rear cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you replace the chain and chainrings but not the cassette, I suggest paying very careful attention to how the chain runs when you first put it on.  If there's any kind of roughness to how the bike pedals, any kind of noise coming from the rear end when you pedal, or problems with shifting the rear, then it's probably time to replace the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can do if you keep the old cassette is check the chain for wear regularly. If the chain wears down (&quot;stretches&quot;) faster than it seems like it should, replace the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T21:20:24.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5043" CreationDate="2011-07-24T22:06:41.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, a good bike shop will have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL401J56-Rohloff+Hgig+Sprocket+Wear+Indicator.aspx?sc=FRGL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tool&lt;/a&gt; for testing the wear on the cassette.  Generally the rear sprockets wear out about twice as fast as the front, so the cassette is probably due for replacement if the front sprockets are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you replace the chain, you may notice that the chain and cassette &quot;don't get along&quot; very well together, with the chain tending to skip, jerking, not shifting well, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding with the old cassette will likely cause the chain to wear faster, but not by much.  Should not cause any untoward wear on the front sprockets unless you let the chain become too worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-07-25T17:00:16.197" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T17:00:16.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4740" CreationDate="2011-07-24T22:11:45.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, the Highway Code describes a standard signal for indicating that you intend to slow down: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.direct.gov.uk/prod_consum_dg/groups/dg_digitalassets/@dg/@en/documents/digitalasset/dg_070566.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Extending your right arm and waving it up and down&lt;/a&gt;. Unfortunately, it's difficult to perform this and brake at the same time so it's not great for urgent, unexpected stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, despite it being in the highway code, it's uncommon enough that many road users don't recognise it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1846" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T22:11:45.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2011-07-25T01:23:16.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not tried them yet, but I read these ear buds allow ambient sounds in. Supposedly they fit in the outer ear without actually penetrating the ear canal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marshallheadphones.com/product/minor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.marshallheadphones.com/product/minor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1847" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T01:23:16.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2011-07-25T02:12:32.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mycyfi.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cy-fi&lt;/a&gt; speaker is an option.  It is a wireless speaker that attaches to your stem or handlebars and wirelessly plays from an ipod/mp3 player.  The upside is that it doesn't cover your ears at all.  The downside is that you're playing loud enough other people hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T02:12:32.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3666" CreationDate="2011-07-25T02:32:43.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://derailleurhanger.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://derailleurhanger.com&lt;/a&gt; when you just can't get it straight. The fact that there's a web site out there that only sells derailleur hangers is what makes the interwebs great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1408" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T02:32:43.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5051" CreationDate="2011-07-25T06:12:18.623" Score="17" ViewCount="6599" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all pro-cycling races, they start wobbling towards the finish line instead of biking steadily (e.g., in this video: &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/wJE69beIIoI&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/wJE69beIIoI&lt;/a&gt;). Why do they do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I have no experience with racing or a bike with handles curved to the front, so maybe a stupid question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1714" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-07-25T10:50:31.653" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T14:39:11.560" Title="Why do racing cyclists wobble when furiously pedalling?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5050" CreationDate="2011-07-25T10:09:58.440" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a stupid question. The simple answer is that they are throwing every ounce of leverage, weight, and power into the pedals and that much movement side to side is the visible result of trying that hard to move forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could stay absolutely still, and input the same amount of force to the pedal, then more of that energy would go to moving forward, but you can't. It's a matter of balance and leverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T10:09:58.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-25T10:31:52.403" Score="5" ViewCount="21097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with my shifter. My bike is using Shimano Revo Shift(gripshift) RS-35 (see my picture).  The one shifting the front derailer (the left shifter) does not click when I turn it but it can still shift the cable.  How do I repair it?  I don't even know how do open up the shifter in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lJ8gL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano RS-35&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T17:08:39.587" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T06:21:54.250" Title="Shimano Revo Shift Gives No Clicks" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5052" CreationDate="2011-07-25T11:00:19.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Likely the pawl has gotten gummed up, but can't help you with disassembly.  (It's not unheard of for the LBS repair guy to just spray lube into the shifter in this case, to try to free it up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But try this link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/shift-levers-shifters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/shift-levers-shifters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-07-25T11:56:08.020" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T11:56:08.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2011-07-25T12:29:38.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think by definition, if you can hear the your music/audio book/whatever, you are 'obstructing' your ears. Don't put yourself (and others!) at danger! When you are riding, you should be fully engaged in RIDING.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T12:29:38.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5050" CreationDate="2011-07-25T12:48:46.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've (anecdotally) noticed this effect is much more pronounced on road bikes with drop bars than other styles of bikes.  It is quite difficult to prevent on a road bike when standing and pedaling hard; although it has little impact on performance or speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion the wobble is mostly a side-effect of holding tightly to the bars while standing and pedaling.  When you're really crushing the pedals you use your arms to essentially pull yourself down onto the bike and to maximize power to the pedals (if you weren't holding on firmly you would be lifting yourself above the bike rather than pushing the pedals around).  When pushing the pedals and pulling the handlebars it's quite difficult to prevent the bars from being turned slightly side-to-side, which results in part of the wobble.  Add to that most of your body weight being rocked from side to side and the bike begins to get that lean effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall it is quite difficult to prevent, and preventing the wobble would likely cost more in terms of speed than just compensating for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="1373" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T14:39:11.560" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T14:39:11.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2391" CreationDate="2011-07-25T13:28:27.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These look like an excellent solution: &lt;a href=&quot;http://onegoodearbud.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;earbuds/headphones&lt;/a&gt; designed to be worn in one ear only, that combine a stereo input into just that one speaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T13:28:27.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5050" CreationDate="2011-07-25T15:04:58.097" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;They quite simply &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; sway the bike back and forth because of the mechanical reality of the situation. It's not even really a conscious act — if the rider didn't do this, the bike would fall out from under them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These riders are applying extreme power to each pedal. Since the pedals are not centered laterally, applying a large force to the right pedal (for instance) will, physically speaking, apply a rotational force that pushes the top of the bike to the right and the bottom of the bike to the left. Without this counterbalancing motion, they would quite literally kick the wheel to the side out from under them. By swaying the bike in the opposite direction, they increase the amount of force that can be applied to the pedals without crashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, it's an intuitive motion that happens completely automatically to any rider in that situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a quick mental picture, imagine somebody swaying in the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; direction as the pedal being pushed. For instance, somebody leaning the bike to the right while they apply a large force to the right pedal. The rotational force would rotate the bicycle clockwise, lifting the wheel off the ground. Not something you want to happen, especially at sprinting speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T15:04:58.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4979" CreationDate="2011-07-25T18:47:35.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always heard that using a hose was bad. I can't understand why. Recently I worked for Trek World Racing for the Windham World Cup event. They wash every bike, DH and XC with a pressure washer every day. It must not damage their bikes considering their success. I just don't understand the conflicting information here. Many other companies did the same: Giant, Specialized, Rocky Mountain etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1851" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T17:14:09.877" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T17:14:09.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5052" CreationDate="2011-07-25T19:22:49.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opening it is simple. Remove the grip, grasp the portion of the shifter that turns to shift, and rotate it back like you are shifting, while pulling it towards the center of the bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting it back together is not simple, and will likely not happen without assistance. Ask your LBS to show you the procedure if you want to learn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, ask them to fix it. It will like require replacing the pawl spring (snoopy spring) inside it, which creates the click, and holds the shifter to a particular gear. It may require replacing the shifter body, depending on what is broken inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Nexus/ShiftLever/SL-3S35/6E80B-001_SL-3S35-E-ENG_v1_m56577569830655182.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Installation guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/SL/EV-SL-3S35-E-1908_v1_m56577569830609195.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano tech docs for RevoShift 3 speed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Other styles of RevoShift Tech Docs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third link takes you to a tech doc page. It's java, so I can't link to the search directly. Type RevoShift in the search box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T14:04:31.410" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T14:04:31.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5020" CreationDate="2011-07-25T20:08:34.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;distance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; does not matter at all. What matters is the &lt;em&gt;% of Heart Rate Max vs Time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal in training, whether running or cycling, is to achieve and maintain a specific HR range for some amount of time. That number is not directly related to &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;distance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hypothetical example for a cyclist getting back into the swing after a winter of sloth...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;March Riding for 30 minutes at 70% of HRMax - covered 15 miles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;April Riding for 30 minutes at 70% of HRMax - covered 20 miles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May Riding for 30 minutes at 70% of HRMax - covered 25 miles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Distance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is irrelevant. The idea is to think about intensity. At least for training/workouts. Otherwise it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So getting back to the main question: How much easier is cycling compared to walking or running?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Way easier or can be. FWIW...my bike commute is far less effort than walking to work. That's why I do it. On the other hand, with intense interval training, one or two cycling miles can be quite difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@hhhh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;wdypdx22: how do you measure % of HRMax? Any cheap way to do that like approximating somehow while riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 ways that I know of to determine Max Heart Rate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medical/sports medicine method - Involves a test in a lab either running on a treadmill or a cycling ergometer. The technicians will give you a number at the end. This is probably accurate, but, may be costly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various calculations - The original is - (Age - 220 = MHR). There are other, more modern calculations. You can find several variations &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brianmac.co.uk/maxhr.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Accuracy? It's a ballpark figure. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Functional methods - Basically, the idea is to ride &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; hard for &quot;x&quot; time (and perhaps more than once). Then, record your average and max HR. That way you have an idea of your MHR. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sportsmedicine.about.com/cs/strengthening/a/030904.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RPE&lt;/a&gt; (Rate of Perceived Exertion)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;goal&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which is a % of the Max Heart Rate is easily calculated. No one needs my input. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-07-29T00:07:35.080" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T00:07:35.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5064" CreationDate="2011-07-25T21:00:41.890" Score="0" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering of paying &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/2010-saxo-bank-long-sleeves-bicycle-riding-suit-sports-clothes-size-l-175-180cm-52390&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DeaxExtreme's clothes&lt;/a&gt;, because they are rather cheap and seem to be rather good in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to have a cloth that keeps me warm as it rains and as I cycle 50 km/h maximum. I am therefore considering of having a fleece and ECWCS level 1 layer under the given cloth, just in case when it gets cold. I should definately keep a scarf to protect my throat with the given cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are DX's clothes worth the money?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wearing at the moment polo trousers with elastic boxers and a jacket with fleece underwear which does traps water inside. Continuous chafing and the wet jacket are my main problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature range is often -10 - +36 C from the morning to the day temperature in the summer. The weather is often windy. I am living in many countries such as Sweden, Norway, Finland, Germany and France. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any clothning that breathes and blocks wind well?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1638" LastEditorUserId="1638" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T10:25:00.483" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T11:34:41.590" Title="Cheap clothes for 50 km per day in the summer" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5050" CreationDate="2011-07-25T22:25:15.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@STW has the right idea, but I think it's worth noting that to the extent possible, you're trying to hold your &lt;em&gt;upper body&lt;/em&gt; still, and (especially when sprinting) you &quot;wobble&quot; the bike under you to maximize power. In other words, most of the &quot;wobbling&quot; involved is less of an accidental side effect than something they actually work at. Conversely, when you see somebody whose upper body is moving a lot, while the bike stays relatively upright, it's a pretty good sign that they're running out of energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some other (also intentional) reasons as well. First, working your way through a tight peloton can be tough, especially close to the finish. Most of the riders are staying as close together as they can to get maximum drafting. Worse, unless they happen to be your team-mate, the people right next to you will often try to &quot;squeeze&quot; you to intimidate you enough to slow you down a tiny bit. Here you're literally &quot;throwing your weight around&quot; to make it harder for others to squeeze you in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, the &quot;smoother&quot; you ride, the easier it is for somebody to draft off of you. The more you're moving sideways, the harder it is for them to get/stay in your draft. Earlier in a race (like in a breakaway) you'll see people do relatively quick sideways movements of the bike to help drop people drafting off of them. In the final sprint, you usually can't afford to do that, but you're still doing the best you can to make drafting difficult, as long as you don't slow your self down (much) in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you're riding smoothly, it's fairly easy for somebody to stay close beside you and stay in your draft almost until they're in front of you. By moving around as much as possible, you force them to pull farther to the side before they can pass safely, which means they lose your draft and have to do more of their own work to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T22:25:15.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2011-07-26T00:00:29.207" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to the many excellent answers, riding a fixie is &lt;em&gt;fun&lt;/em&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't get one for a long time because I thought I wouldn't ride it. But then once I got one I didn't ride anything else for 3 months. It is that much fun. Even on longer rides (up to 80km) I'd ride the fixie. You're so connected to the riding experience on a light, nimble bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no need to be monitoring which gear you're in and which gear you need to select next to go up/down the next hill. There's never noise from the drivetrain. You're never between gears. You're always in the right gear and it's always rock solid!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a commuting bike a fixie is ideal (assuming you can manage any hills). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're cheap to buy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're cheap and easy to maintain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The workout is much harder (making the weekend rides so much more enjoyable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The position is closer to a road bike, again making the weekend rides better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For plenty more ideas, expressed more eloquently than I am capable of, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-08-02T07:36:50.407" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T07:36:50.407" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5061" CreationDate="2011-07-26T11:34:41.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got some pretty demanding criteria there, especially if you have such wide variations in a single day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is &quot;layers&quot; -- different pieces of clothes you can easily put on or take off as conditions change.  And, for that many layers you'd probably want to have a pannier or some other sort of bike bag to carry what you're not wearing (though you could probably get by with a backpack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since cost is a factor, you should start with what you already have (maybe not designed for cycling) and add a few critical pieces.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, you need some good rain clothes -- a lightweight jacket that is waterproof (or close to it) and some sort of pants that shed water well.  The jacket needs to &quot;breathe&quot;, so you don't begin to sweat too quickly.  (But even if it &quot;breathes&quot;, you'll find that it gets sweaty very rapidly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need &quot;wind clothes&quot;, so the wind doesn't penetrate your clothing on a cold day.  These should be anything that is thin but tightly woven (but not waterproof).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you need layers of clothes that keep you warm without making you sweat and without holding sweat (or rain) close to your skin.  Wool is the old traditional favorite here, though there are many synthetic fabrics (such as CoolMax) that are better (and not as scratchy).  But stay away from synthetics such as nylon, polyester, etc, except perhaps as a thin outer layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cotton is to be avoided in cold weather (because it insulates poorly and holds moisture against the skin), though many of us prefer to cycle in a simple cotton tee shirt in warmer weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these clothes should fit fairly tightly, so they don't flap very much in the wind.  (Though the rain jacket should maybe be a little looser than the others, both to &quot;breathe&quot; a little better and because you frequently need to put it on and take it off in a hurry.) Flapping slows you down and also reduces the insulating effectiveness of the clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T11:34:41.590" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2011-07-26T17:13:27.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest is to look for the &quot;L&quot; and &quot;R&quot; on the respective pedals.  Most pedals have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's no indicator which pedal is left and right, then do a little guess-and-check.  If the pedal doesn't start to thread onto the crank after about 1.5 turns then try the other pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember not to force the threads on.  They should start easily, and once started should take little force to fully thread.  Putting a little grease on the threads is highly recommended, it will prevent corrosion and keep them from ceasing--and provided you snug the threads into the crank there's no extra chance of them coming out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T17:13:27.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2011-07-26T18:09:50.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As follow up I wanted to share the tires I wound up riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the front tire I chose a Michelin &quot;Wild Rac'r&quot; 29 x 2.1. Nice low profile lugs in the center for speed on the straights, but beefy side lugs for cornering. Worked great on the rocky soil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the back I put a Specialized &quot;The Captain&quot; S-Works 29 x 2.0. It has nicely spaced lugs that hook up wonderfully for rocky climbs, but is not a gigantic tire to keep the wheels rolling fast on level single track. Considering the extreme rockiness and steepness of the trails in the Breckenridge, Colorado area I rode, these tires worked perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure wise, I ran the front at 40 psi and the back at 35 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michelinbicycletire.com/michelinbicycle/index.cfm?event=wildracer29.view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wild Rac'r&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=58032&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Captain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1725" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T18:09:50.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-26T19:14:44.823" Score="6" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this question, I'm referring to bike lanes of the type shown here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/adrimcm/4173079715/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Central Montreal Bike Lanes by adrimcm, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2789/4173079715_305df84bce.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;333&quot; alt=&quot;Central Montreal Bike Lanes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me they seem like a really bad idea.  Firstly, one of the lanes is going against traffic.  In this instance, the cars turning left at the intersection have to look behind them to see if bikes are coming from behind. Also, it seems that it would be really difficult to pass another cyclist if the path was busy, since the only way to move around another cyclist is to go into the opposite lane, against the traffic of the other bikes.  The only advantage I can see over regular bike paths is that for the most part you are cut off from the cars.  However, I've never had a problem with cars using &quot;regular&quot; bike lanes. Are there any studies as to how well these lanes work?  Does anybody have any experience with these kids of bike lanes?  How do you like them compared to other types of bike lanes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of my concern is shown in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treehugger.com/files/2010/09/awesome-new-two-way-bike-lane-on-prospect-park.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video (skip to 2:50)&lt;/a&gt;.  The lanes seem to move really slowly, and there seems to be a lot of people in the wrong lane completely.  It seems like it would be nice for people taking a leisurely Sunday ride with the kids, but if your actually trying to commute and get somewhere in at a reasonable speed, it seems like it would be impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.750" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T17:11:07.223" Title="Are 2-way bike lanes safe?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;lanes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2011-07-26T19:25:31.120" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;To throw a spanner in the works (this was a huge religious debate in some fixie communities.) &#xA;Brakes are not &quot;optional&quot;. And in some states (MN &amp;amp; WI iirc) are required by law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have at least one brake on a fixed gear bike in case your chain breaks (they can and will if you don't keep up on maintenance.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise as others have mentioned better/smoother pedal stroke, better understanding of your body &amp;amp; endurance since you can't change gears to accommodate hills, simpler mechanics.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1859" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-04T07:24:35.970" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T07:24:35.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-26T20:27:24.980" Score="0" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a list/site out there that contains roads and pavement conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a road bike and some NYC roads are really beaten up, while some maintain reasonably smooth pavement. It would be awesome to have a list of these and to know what to take/avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, are there any resources in NYC that will tell me where construction is scheduled or happening? At least I could avoid those areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-01T00:03:51.973" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T16:05:21.670" Title="Does anyone know of a list of city roads with bad pavement ( NYC )" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;regional&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5067" CreationDate="2011-07-26T20:38:23.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike lanes like this work well in London city centre. Being separated from the traffic is a major bonus. In a number of places they use separate traffic lights for the bike lane so the cars aren't crossing the lane when the bikes are on the junction. In other places, there are no right turn, or no left turn junctions to protect the bike lane (common in a city centre due to the number of one way streets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the number of junctions in London, the number of traffic lights, pedestrians etc, it just isn't safe to travel above about 12mph anyway and these lanes are perfectly safe for passing the oncoming bikes and the occasional overtake at these speeds. In general the stretches I use which are laid out like this are relatively short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue is actually the pedestrians who aren't expecting the bikes to come from both directions. Judicious use of the bell is needed to warn them. This has got better with familiarity, and it is only the occasional tourist who seems unsure, but the tourists tend to be more wary and aren't sure which side of the road we drive on anyway!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T20:38:23.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5067" CreationDate="2011-07-26T22:53:34.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Studies done by the school of Health at Harvard, and published in Injury Prevention, are showing these to be safer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/news/features/coverage-in-the-media/bicycling-safety-cycle-tracks-lusk/index.html&quot;&gt;http://www.hsph.harvard.edu/news/features/coverage-in-the-media/bicycling-safety-cycle-tracks-lusk/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T22:53:34.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5020" CreationDate="2011-07-27T02:33:43.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling is different that running in that with cycling you can recover energy while riding and also expend far more amounts of energy when climbing that you do when running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb in equivalence we talk about in our triathlon group is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/2 marathon ~ 50 mile ride or metric century (100km/62 miles) depending on amount of climbs&#xA;Full marathon ~ 100 mile ride&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling is much easier on the joints and rides usually have stops to eat, drink, pee, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling is harder than running when it comes to getting a good fit on the bike and getting flexibility in the different body parts to feel relaxed on the bike for hours on end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T02:33:43.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4740" CreationDate="2011-07-27T03:49:47.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of what my cycling community is similar, with a few variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slowing is signaled by an open hand behind the back.  If the hand makes a fist, it means we are stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We point out dangers like potholes or dead animals with finger.  Sand, glass, or gratings get a hand waved toward them like a brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we go through a stop sign without stopping the front will call &quot;rolling&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a parked car that could be dangerous, either due to a possible open door, or we are riding 2x2, the right arm is waved behind the back in a sweep back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With cars, I tend to point where I'm going and look them in the eye.  When I'm concerned that they aren't paying attention, I put my palm towards them, the universal symbol to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you make the right hand turn like in the pictures, roadies will mock you endless, simply point right...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T03:49:47.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5009" CreationDate="2011-07-27T04:02:24.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to use an electrolyte drink.  This is exactly what they are made for. They help keep your body chemistry right for handling water.  Sweat out too much of your salts and you won't be able to process the water properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplest is to drink Gatorade.  It has electrolytes and carbs, both of which you will need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cyclists use powders that you mix with water.  For traveling, there are electrolyte tablets that are easier to carry and dissolve in water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride with one bottle of energy drink and the second bottle of water.  The water is good since you can also cool yourself by poring it on your head/back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as food, various carbs are good, but try to include some protein. The Clif bars have protein and are vegan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might go to a cycling shop and see what the guys there suggest, there are tons of options designed for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T04:02:24.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5078" CreationDate="2011-07-27T08:35:58.043" Score="4" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got one of these stems: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EtraR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stems&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's currently fully inserted into the bike, and it's too low for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I simply loosen it, raise it 5cm and tighten it again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the minimum length that should be inserted? will there be markings like on the seatpost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stem is Aluminum. The frame is Steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-27T09:09:42.513" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T11:40:58.337" Title="how much can i raise my stem?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5085" CreationDate="2011-07-27T08:39:28.517" Score="45" ViewCount="44834" Body="&lt;p&gt;My chain and cogs always look very dirty as the oil attracts dirt. It is a constant problem as you can't fully avoid stains on your trousers and hands. Also, that looks ugly and I believe it wears the chain and the cassette out as the particles stuck on chain act as abrasive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to think that was unavoidable, but then I noticed that on some bikes the chain and cogs are shiny clean. Is that because their owners clean the chain daily (because honestly one day is enough for a chain to turn black after full cleaning) or because they use different lubrication solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard about teflon-based lubricants, are they really much better in that sense than traditional oil-based ones? Also, these bikes with shiny chains were always single-speed bikes - does that mean geared system experience more traction and should be traditionally oiled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3125" LastEditorUserId="3125" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T09:07:27.417" LastActivityDate="2021-02-28T11:22:12.153" Title="How to achieve an always clean chain" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5075" CreationDate="2011-07-27T09:07:58.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With most older quill stems, there must be a minimum of one inch of the stem (above the binder wedge) inside the frame for safety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most stems have marks on them similar to seat posts, yes. The longer the quill, the more of the stem needs to be in the frame. I suggest 25% of the length as a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scratch marks on the stem in the photo you linked show about where that one should be inserted as a minimum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can loosen the bolt and slide the stem farther up, to raise it, with this style stem. How much you can raise it varies by model and your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T09:07:58.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5076" CreationDate="2011-07-27T09:20:28.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of reasons why a chain will get dirty quickly. One is the type of lube used, and how it is applied. Too much lube is as bad as too little for that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1696/how-do-i-lubricate-my-chain/1697#1697&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to see how to Lube your chain properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tools as well to allow you to clean more efficiently, and more often, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-gang-cleaning-system-cg-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qWEdQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tool Chain Gang Cleaning set&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T09:20:28.200" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5075" CreationDate="2011-07-27T11:40:58.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look closely among those scratches there is probably a factory-embossed mark indicating the highest that the stem should be set.  That mark should be barely visible above the headset packing nut at the highest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T11:40:58.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5076" CreationDate="2011-07-27T11:54:11.373" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually a clean chain is due to the bike simply not being ridden (much).  You can look at the tires and see no wear, no scratches on the bike, etc.  These bikes are ridden by CSOs -- cyclist shaped objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can keep your chain relatively clean several ways.  A chain cleaner/washer tool similar to what zenbike shows helps a lot (but don't overuse it).  Then use a relatively &quot;dry&quot; chain oil.  &quot;Dry&quot; means that the &quot;oil&quot; consists of Teflon and/or wax particles suspended in a solvent.  When it is applied the solvent evaporates, leaving the more solid material behind, but not leaving the chain sticky.  (The bike shop guy will be able to point you to the chain oils, and many/most will say &quot;wet&quot; or &quot;dry&quot; on the label.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NB: For riding in wet weather, though, you should use a &quot;wet&quot; oil, one that is more like a traditional motor oil in composition.  It's still best to use a purpose-made bike oil, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But mostly you need to embrace the grime.  If you're wearing regular trousers, use a leg strap to hold the chain-side trouser leg tight to the leg.  (This also prevents getting the cuff hung up in the chain or on the sprocket.)  For your hands, carry a pair of disposable &quot;surgical&quot; gloves, in case you need to muck with the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T11:54:11.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-27T13:17:59.870" Score="4" ViewCount="2203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found out that a racing type road bike is hard to shift as hurts the arthritis in my fingers. And even the frame is harder on the hips. I need something more gentle, but fast enough to keep up with road riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now ride a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/dual_sport/ds_series/utopia/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek Utopia&lt;/a&gt; on and off road and I do ride it hard. Can't keep up with road rider, but can fly on the dirt!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1877" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-27T23:42:51.943" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T04:39:43.603" Title="Road bike that is gentle on body, but can go in some dirt" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5082" CreationDate="2011-07-27T13:30:19.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes are typically geared for this situation--they are essentially a road bike intended to handle some dirt, and typically are fitted with somewhat knobby tires (similar to your Fischer hybrid) and a lower gear range.  These bikes can be considered hybrids with drop-bars in many ways, and will let you get close to the speed of a road-bike while being able to handle single-tracks, light sand and gravel, and other terrain a road bike couldn't touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be a more road-oriented hybrid.  Your Utopia is more towards the mountain-bike side of the spectrum, and the front shock and disk brakes add quite a bit of weight.  I'd recommend that if you're happy with the Utopia you should look at the Trek Fx line of hybrids.  They're much faster than the Utopia, but extremely versatile.  They won't be as fast as a road bike, but should be quite a bit faster than your Utopia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your difficulty shifting, it sounds like it would be good for you to go to a bike shop and try test-riding a variety of bikes with different shifter styles.  Some shifters (such as STI's) require strength of your index and middle finger; however flat-bar shifters often use your thumb for the harder shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T13:30:19.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5093" CreationDate="2011-07-27T13:56:15.263" Score="14" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in western Germany and have started to ride to work almost everyday. It is great at the moment as it is summer (not as dry as I hoped for, but that is another story). So the only thing I have to really deal with is rain and, sometimes, cooler weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the winter, it sometimes snow, and will definitely have ice on the roads and trails that I ride. What can I do to prepare my bike and my clothing for riding in the winter time? I am even considering getting a new bike as my current bike is quite worn and needs to be updated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this is quite broad, but I hope to create a list of things (or community wiki) to do for preparing for the winter time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1657" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T18:41:10.510" Title="How to prepare oneself for riding in the snow?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5076" CreationDate="2011-07-27T13:57:34.207" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you clean and then lube your chain ALWAYS take a towel and wipe off the excess lube.  Just hold the towel on the chain and spin the crank backwards.  And as mentioned above use a strap around you pants leg.  A large rubber band works.  A timing chip strap worn in triathlons work... those velcro watch bands work...  lots of ways here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your hands will always get grimy if you have to touch the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1878" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T13:57:34.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2011-07-27T14:30:39.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that my tires (Continental Contact, 700x32, with a tread but no knobs) commute well on rain and surprisingly even on snow or slush; but &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; on ice: not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ride on ice, you can get special studded tires (which people say work quite well but which I haven't tried).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Winter clothing is relatively easy because it doesn't rain in winter (it snows), so you don't get very wet (with a water-resistant jacket, snow will brush off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A lighter jacket than usual (you get hot when you ride a bike; so I wear a quilted jacket, which isn't as warm as my real winter coat which is made with duvet/feathers).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Extra gloves (I use regular, bare-fingered cycling gloves usually; but in winter I keep ski mittens in my pannier).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also switch back to using a wet lube for the chain instead of a dry lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And having an aluminium bike makes me less nervous than having steel, because here they salt the roads in winter and with aluminium I don't need to worry so much about corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes: more reliable than rim brakes, especially when it's wet (which is useful when you're commuting in traffic, or going down-hill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4813/what-are-optimal-fabrics-for-cycling-clothing/4823#4823&quot;&gt;Further details of my clothing for commuting in this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:21:29.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5076" CreationDate="2011-07-27T14:46:29.573" Score="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's lots of good info here, let me summarize my cleaning routine which combines many of the approaches already mentioned, and keeps the chain in good condition and appearance.  This focuses on getting the chain totally clean and dry (no water, degreaser, or lube) before re-oiling it; and then on removing as much excess oil as possible.  The end goal is a very clean chain with just enough oil--excess oil will quickly attracts grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First the chain gets a wipe-down with a damp rag to remove as much sand and grime as possible.  This is just to knock the worst of it off the chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second the chain gets two passes with degreaser. I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-gang-cleaning-system-CG-2-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Park Tool Chain Gang cleaner&lt;/a&gt; which &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5076/how-to-achive-an-always-clean-chain/5079#5079&quot;&gt;zenbike&lt;/a&gt; recommended for this.  It gets filled with degreaser, and gets about 30x cranks on the pedals; then a fresh batch of degreaser goes in and it gets another 30x cranks.  At this point the chain should be quite clean except for the degreaser.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third the chain gets washed in 91% rubbing alcohol--this is primarily to wash off the degreaser, but it also gets the last of the grime.  Sometimes this takes two rounds--the last round of alcohol should remain quite clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fourth the chain is left to dry for ~5-10 minutes (just long enough for the alcohol to evaporate off).  At this point the chain should be totally clean and dry with no degreaser left anywhere on the drivetrain--move quickly onto re-oiling, as a dry chain is vulnerable to corrosion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First the new oil goes on,  1x drop per chain roller.  After applying I let it sit for a couple minutes without turning the cranks to let the oil seep into the internals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second I spend a few minutes slowly running the chain through a clean rag to remove most of the excess--maybe a couple-minutes worth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Third I let the bike sit for a few minutes, then wipe the chain again, and repeat a couple times.  The oil inside the links will slowly seep out of the next day or so--so this step is just to remove that excess oil as it appears.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally I give the chain a wipe before and after the first couple rides.  Again just to remove the excess oil as it seeps from the internals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do this routine every 100-250 miles, depending on how fast the chain grimes up.  The goal is to have a very light layer of oil over the externals of the chain, and as much oil internally as it will accept.  If you notice the chain is staying too dry, but not dirty, then you can re-oil without cleaning and repeat the process of cleaning off the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T15:25:10.943" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-27T15:45:25.397" Score="4" ViewCount="4342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in recommending my boss get the workshop in which I work a bottom bracket tap and facing set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it's quite an investment it's important to me to know what you're getting for your money. Does anyone have any experience in this area? I'm a bit of a bike snob so have always leaned towards Park Tool on these matters; apparently Cyclus also make a very good unit. Appreciate any experience or feedback you fine people have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1879" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T04:46:10.250" Title="Does anyone have experience with Bottom Bracket Tap/Facing sets?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2011-07-27T16:19:35.347" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you'll be riding on ice, you definitely need studded tires.  For snow, you need wider tires than the typical road bike -- more of a mountain/hybrid tire, with a lugged design.  How wide depends on how deep and soft the snow will be.  Fenders are generally not a good idea since they'll tend to get clogged with snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clothing you don't need anything super-special vs what you'd wear for that cold of a temp anyway -- your typical tight-fitting cycling clothes will shed snow pretty well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're not familiar with riding in the cold, you need a &quot;wind shell&quot; that will prevent the wind from penetrating into your clothing and wrecking its insulating value.  Some cold-weather wind shells are more wind-proof on the front than on the back, and this is a good thing, since it still lets your clothing &quot;breathe&quot; fairly well.  What you wear under the shell depends on how cold it gets -- think layers.  Avoid cotton -- look for wool or man-made materials designed to &quot;wick&quot; moisture, such as CoolMax.  Just keep in mind that you will get warm quickly while cycling, and it's more of a challenge to stay cool (and not sweaty) rather than warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your hands, it's a good idea to wear &quot;glove liners&quot; under your regular cycling gloves, then something like lightweight ski mitts over the cycling gloves in cold weather.  (Glove liners are thin, tight-fitting gloves typically knit from blue/purple polypropylene.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of theories on feet.  Simplest is probably a pair of neoprene rubber cycling booties.  They can be cut to let &quot;clipless&quot; pedal cleats fit through, if you want to use those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a web site -- &lt;a href=&quot;http://icebike.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://icebike.org/&lt;/a&gt; -- that has lots of good info on cold-weather cycling, even though it apparently hasn't been updated in 5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-07-28T17:02:22.310" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T17:02:22.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2648" CreationDate="2011-07-27T17:25:28.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar problem, and there's one thing that oddly affects it: Whether I wear prescription glasses or contact lenses. With my glasses, I have to bend my neck a little more to see the road ahead, and this has an effect on rides longer than an hour. With contacts, I normally also don sports sun shades, which have a wider field of view and don't make me bend the neck so much. Something to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1880" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T17:25:28.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5088" CreationDate="2011-07-27T17:46:16.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottom Bracket Taps and Facing tools are an expensive and highly specialized tool. As a workshop, owning them and knowing when and how to use them properly, is one of the key signs of a professional shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many new frames are moving to design without threads, but these tools will continue to be valuable for years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the brands I'm familiar with, and recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unitedbicyclesupply.com/index.cgi?id=74969578074&amp;amp;d=single&amp;amp;item_id=PA-BTS1&amp;amp;c=Tools&amp;amp;sc=Bottom_Bracket&amp;amp;tc=Tap_Sets&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Park Tool set&lt;/a&gt; is quality, and durable. For a set of taps and facing blades that will be durable, and also are likely to maintain compatibility with future similar tool sets from Park, it's hard to go wrong there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5JVan.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tool BTS-1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unitedbicyclesupply.com/index.cgi?id=74969578074&amp;amp;d=single&amp;amp;item_id=CA-725&amp;amp;c=Tools&amp;amp;sc=Bottom_Bracket&amp;amp;tc=Facer_Sets&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Campagnolo set&lt;/a&gt; has been the quality standard for shop use for 30 years at least. I know of one shop that's had theirs in continuous use for at least that long. You do pay for it, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unitedbicyclesupply.com/index.cgi?id=74969578074&amp;amp;d=single&amp;amp;item_id=CA-721&amp;amp;c=Tools&amp;amp;sc=Bottom_Bracket&amp;amp;tc=Tap_Sets&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Campy tap set&lt;/a&gt; is a separate tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iLbrI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Campy BB facing set&quot;&gt;      &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T9Rhg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Campy Tap set&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unitedbicyclesupply.com/index.cgi?id=74969578074&amp;amp;d=single&amp;amp;item_id=CU-149&amp;amp;c=Tools&amp;amp;sc=Bottom_Bracket&amp;amp;tc=Tap_Sets&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Cylus Tap sets&lt;/a&gt; are excellent as well, although durability is yet to be proven. They are a more complicated machine, which allows a speedier, and very well done, job to be performed. It also allows for more things to break on their system. This is an impression I have only. I have not seen one fail. It does require a separate tool for english and italian BB's, and the parts are not interchangeable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/boqON.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cylus BB Tap and facing tool, English&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The VAR tool set is the original, the one that Park Tool based their original design on. It's simple, durable, and classic. The design allows purchase of an Italian thread set to be used with the English handles, and vice versa.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khlan.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Var Tool BB Facing and Tapping Set&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hozan.co.jp/cycle_e/catalog/bb_pedal/C-405.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hozan Tools&lt;/a&gt; makes an excellent tap set, but not facer currently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKnKy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hozan Tools set&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these tools are excellent quality and have reasonable likelihood of replacement taps and facing cutters being available through the years. Campagnolo, and Park Tool are fairly certain to stand the test of time, and I'd recommend on of those two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T17:46:16.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5082" CreationDate="2011-07-27T18:05:35.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If what you want is a true road bike, but without the pain, consider getting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?spid=52876&amp;amp;scid=1001&amp;amp;scname=Road&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specialized Roubaix&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/us_en/product/10051/55722/218094&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scott CR1&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are both excellent road bikes with a slightly more upright riding position, and a carbon fiber frame that is engineered with comfort and distance in mind, while maintaining the speed and agility of a road machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the nicest (and most expensive) of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?spid=52876&amp;amp;scid=1001&amp;amp;scname=Road&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specialized Roubaix&lt;/a&gt; line up. I'm pointing out this one in particular, in spite of the cost, because it uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/di2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;electronic shifting&lt;/a&gt;. The battery powered shifters and derailleurs are only currently available on Shimano's highest end group. But that will be changing next year, when they release the Ultegra Di2 kit, and they will remove the pain from shifting for you. A light touch with one finger produces the fastest, smoothest, and crispest shifts I've ever seen, and I think will eliminate the pain of shifting for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Di2 kits also have the unique ability to have 2 sets of shifters operate the same derailleurs. Which means you can put a set of buttons on the flat part of the bar, as well as having the more traditional STI brake lever shaped set, with no loss regardless of the position you are riding in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AHL7Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Specialized Roubaix SL3 Di2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is amazingly light, and agile. But the best part is the smooth ride, and the comfort. It is a Centurion's bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/us_en/product/10051/55722/218094&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Scott CR1 SL&lt;/a&gt; is a similar design, my preference, actually. But they don't currently offer it with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/di2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Di2 Electronic shifting&lt;/a&gt;. Again, it's on the horizon for next year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/awSFA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scott CR1 SL&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bikes are in no way intended for dirt, but no bike which is intended for dirt, even a cyclocross bike, is geared to stay in the pack with a true road machiine. You're better off keeping your current hybrid machine for when you go offroad, and buying a true road bike for the days on pavement with your buddies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T18:05:35.067" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2011-07-27T19:12:44.497" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Studded tires are a must on ice. They are expensive, but well worth it! A couple of points to consider that have not been mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Footwear:&lt;/strong&gt; Winter specific riding shoes or boots. For mountain biking and cross, I ride with Lake boots. On the road, I use an older pair of road shoes that have been stretched to accommodate thick wool socks and neoprene shoe covers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Head-wear:&lt;/strong&gt; I typically ride with a helmet cover all winter. I also bring along a couple different varieties of skull caps on ride ranging in thickness, ear/face coverage etc... yes to balaclavas!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Depth of snow:&lt;/strong&gt; whether you are running studs or not, my experience is that if the snow is deeper than 4-5 inches, it is not ride-able. In this case, it is best to wait until either the cross country skiers, hikers or plows(in the case of roads) have cleared or packed down the snow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Body Temperature:&lt;/strong&gt; Many cyclists new to riding in colder weather tend to over dress. The trick that works for me is twofold, first absolutely dress in layers and second I want to be cold, not freezing, but cold as I go outside and get my bike ready or at the very start of the ride. If I am warm at that point, I will be sweat soaked in the matter of minutes and wetness is something you want avoid! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fender:&lt;/strong&gt; Clearly, if the snow is dry, it is not necessary, but my experience is it is better to have one as a precaution than go without! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat Packs:&lt;/strong&gt; At extreme temperatures, I have successfully used heat packs in the tips of my shoes and palms of my gloves. I am not a huge fan of use in the palms, I very rarely and if i do it is usually just a temporary fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use of Car Heater:&lt;/strong&gt; If I am driving to the ride, I preheat my shoes and as much clothing as possible using my car heater on the way to the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get yourself set up with studs, I would highly recommend finding a frozen lake or pond to ride on! The experience is phenomenal! If you can time the lake ride with 1-2 inches of fresh snow it will be that much better!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride road, mountain and cross year round outside. Hope this helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T19:12:44.497" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-27T19:41:26.593" Score="4" ViewCount="3404" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bicycle didn't produce any squeaks until the last weekend, when I decided to make a little maintenance. First, I used &quot;Easy Clean&quot; spray from the White Lightning brand to clean the cogset and the chain. Then, I applied &quot;Epic Ride&quot; semi-dry all conditions silicone lube from the same brand to lubricate the cogset and the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I rode my bicycle afterwards, I noticed squeaking sounds coming from the cogset. Why might this happen? Did I miss something in my maintenance procedure? Did I use wrong type of lubricant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've found some useful information from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1826/why-is-my-chain-so-noisy-after-cleaning-and-lubricating&quot;&gt;Why is my chain so noisy after cleaning and lubricating?&lt;/a&gt; At this point I believe that the squeaking sounds are caused by firm particles (sand) that got into the bearings or onto moveable parts in the process of degreasing. In the beginning, my suspicion was that I had used wrong type of lubricant (why they put silicone in there, anyway?). I don't think I can select the best answer from those provided below (can't upvote them either because of the low reputation), but I appreciate the effort of those who shared with me their thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1882" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T00:47:41.857" Title="Squeaking sounds after lubricating the cogset and chain" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5094" CreationDate="2011-07-27T20:27:13.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you get any on the cogs of your rear derailleur? Might have removed some grease from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next any chance it got to any internal bearings? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those would be my first two thoughts of where to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Else... can you reproduce the squeaking with out the chain (e.g. take the wheel off and spin the freewheel) that might narrow it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1859" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T20:27:13.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5100" CreationDate="2011-07-27T21:49:09.523" Score="5" ViewCount="11823" Body="&lt;p&gt;External bottom brackets have been appearing on higher-end bikes in the last few years.  Can older bikes with bottom bracket shells that come stock with square taper internal ISO 68mm or oversized ISO 73mm bottom brackets be retrofitted with external cups when it comes time to replace the bottom bracket?  I am well aware that the cranks will have have to be replaced, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T21:40:16.510" Title="Can a bike with an internal bottom bracket be retrofitted to have an external bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5088" CreationDate="2011-07-27T22:32:41.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what type of shop you are. In my workshop experience getting the bottom-bracket re-threading tools was not an every day occurrence. When it did come out it would typically be for one of the early cr-mo mtb frames where the bottom bracket was just a tube, i.e. not investment cast, although it would come out for those too, e.g. age old Raleigh bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know of a high-end shop where they seem to use the tool on pretty much every high-end frameset build. (As if the likes of Look etc. don't bother to thread the b/b...) Clearly they are getting a better return on the tool than I was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool I used appeared to be of the Hozan flavour, it pre-dated my employment and had one of the handles bent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Availability is going to be a problem in Australia, I would just get what one of your favourite distributors can do for you at a favourable price. If it turns out to be unfit for purpose then you can return it. I would be very surprised if there were any on the market that were sub-standard, i.e. less than bulletproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T22:32:41.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5096" CreationDate="2011-07-27T22:37:46.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes they most definitely can be used on older frames - either 68 or 73 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to Google the version you are after e.g. MT51 on Shimano Tech Docs as they will have full instructions that you may want to read before you buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T22:37:46.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5082" CreationDate="2011-07-27T23:04:46.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend that you get more than one bicycle. In that way you can keep the Trek for the trails and go out on something quicker when going on the roads with your 'roadie' friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giant produce an excellent range of 'fitness' bikes that have the road frame, compact geometry and a flat bar. This last detail is important as retro-fitting a flat bar to a bike with drops is very expensive. Here is the link to the carbon-fibre 'Rapid Advanced':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/rapid.advanced/7843/45451/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/rapid.advanced/7843/45451/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the ALUXX version will also be a very tidy bike, however, if you can treat yourself to carbon fibre then do so. The stem on this model is something you can sort out in the shop, even put some riser bars on there if you can. The shop should help you with making these changes for minimal cost if you are buying a premium machine such as the Rapid Advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding seat-comfort, consider investing in quality shorts, i.e. the ones that cost a small fortune. They are more comfy than any seat/suspension option and worth their weight in gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T23:04:46.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5096" CreationDate="2011-07-28T01:40:28.537" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The external bottom bracket uses the same thread size and shell width as an older internal BB. They were specifically designed to allow use in a standardized frame without redesign. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do require a new crank set, and depending on the model, and what is on your current bike, that may mean the purchase of extra components in order to be compatible with the correct number of gears/width of chain. If you are going from 9 speed MTB to 9 speed MTB components, for example, a like for like change, then it should be just the crank set and BB that change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An external BB is also designed to fit on either a 68mm or 73mm shell. They are universal, as long as you dont have a pressfit BB, or an Italian thread BB. Similar crank sets are available for non-english thread BB's, but it must be designed for your frame's BB shell type specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-07-28T21:40:16.510" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T21:40:16.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5094" CreationDate="2011-07-28T01:50:39.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We need more information to answer this very specifically, but the short answer is that you probably got a degreaser on a bearing area that didn't get or can't easily be re-lubricated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either the hub bearings in the wheel, the bottom bracket bearings, or the derailleur pulleys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5076/how-to-achive-an-always-clean-chain/5087#5087&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for information about how to properly clean and lube your chain with out damaging anything else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the cogset does not require external lubrication, so it is pointless to put lube on it. Lubricate the chain, and it will cover the necessary points on the cogset, externally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T01:50:39.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-28T09:58:21.213" Score="21" ViewCount="2856" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any evidence to suggest that cycling adversely affects male fertility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="449" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-05-13T13:08:45.447" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T10:43:47.947" Title="Can cycling adversely affect male fertility?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;men-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5102" CreationDate="2011-07-28T10:20:52.083" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but only in fairly extreme cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/8124458.stm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, cyclists who regularly cover more than 186 miles (300km) per week are likely to have fertility problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not doing that kind of mileage then I don't think you've got too much to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just found this essay - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12419067&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Great balls of fire and the vicious cycle: A study of the effects of cycling on male fertility&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this essay there is some evidence that cycling &lt;strong&gt;long&lt;/strong&gt; distances can cause fertility problems in men, however it is far from conclusive. Nerve entrapment, trauma or increased scrotal temperature are potential risks for the male cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T11:30:10.973" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T11:30:10.973" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-28T14:20:32.903" Score="9" ViewCount="21449" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing my monthly inspection &amp;amp; clean of my wheels last night and I was shocked to see a crack around one the spokes as they enter rim.  It is a rear wheel (Shimano R600 I think).  I had obviously been riding on it for a little while, so I was wondering if there was any urgency in getting the rim replaced, or can I wait until my next visit to my &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/254#254&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt;?  I currently do only around 100km per week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T01:46:54.070" Title="Is it safe to ride on a cracked rim?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5106" CreationDate="2011-07-28T14:45:52.863" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;if the crack is at the spoke bed, and hasn't spread to the side of the rim yet, it's probably not going to explode immediately (if it's on the sidewall, tire pressure can cause it to burst, which will almost definitely make you crash).&#xA;However, there's a good chance that the spoke will eventually pull through the rim, and there's also the fact that once aluminum starts to fatigue and crack, the damage tends to spread relatively quickly, which means the rim could fail on you entirely, probably without any additional warning. &#xA;You didn't say when you next planned to visit the LBS, but I'd recommend taking care of it within a week or two at the most. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T14:45:52.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5106" CreationDate="2011-07-28T14:55:48.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A crack in the rim is something which needs to be dealt with fairly immediately. It isn't likely to fail catastrophically, but is it worth the risk of the damage to your body, or more importantly, to the rest of your components? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd get to the shop within a few days and avoid riding it very much, at least, until you do. There is really no downside to getting it done sooner, and potentially significant downsides to waiting if you keep riding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T14:55:48.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5016" CreationDate="2011-07-28T15:10:06.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally socks when road racing were white, so as to aid visibility (white things moving up and down).  My local governing body had a rule when I first started racing as an amateur (perhaps they still do) that socks had to be white (and knicks completely black!).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I still feel that when possible, go for white.  I have taken to using tennis style anklet socks, particularly in summer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5016/bicycle-socks-for-road-rides/5077#5077&quot;&gt;rules are made to be broken&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In winter I use a local wool/nylon sock called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.holeproofexplorer.com.au/shop/men/socks/explorer/original-s1138.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Explorers&quot;&lt;/a&gt; that help to keep my feet warmer for longer and still come in reasonably bright colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T15:10:06.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5102" CreationDate="2011-07-28T15:23:49.283" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most scientific studies on cycling and urogenital problems are written with clinicians in mind, to make them aware of possible symptoms that they will encounter. Often these studies get summarized into review articles. One such article (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0302283804005627&quot;&gt;Leibovitch and Mor, 2005&lt;/a&gt;), reviewed 62 relevant studies. They say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reported incidence of bicycling related urogenital symptoms&#xA;  varies considerably. The most common bicycling associated urogenital&#xA;  problems are nerve entrapment syndromes presenting as genitalia&#xA;  numbness, which is reported in 50–91% of the cyclists, followed by&#xA;  erectile dysfunction reported in 13–24%. Other less common symptoms&#xA;  include priapism, penile thrombosis, infertility, hematuria, torsion&#xA;  of spermatic cord, prostatitis, perineal nodular induration and&#xA;  elevated serum PSA, which are reported only sporadically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When examined individually, many of these studies have limitations (small number of study subjects, no followup, etc.), but when taken as a whole, they are pretty conclusive that an association exists between cycling and urogenital problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only study that I could find that was population-based, i.e., included men with a range of cycling durations, was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11890518&quot;&gt;Marceau et al., 2001&lt;/a&gt;. Their data on 1,709 men come from the Massachusetts Male Aging Study. After controlling for potentially confounding factors (&quot;age, energy expenditure, smoking, depression and chronic illness&quot;), they found that men who cycled more than 3 hours per week were 72% more likely to have erectile disfunction than those who cycled less than 3 hours per week. They are cautious, however (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bicycling 3 h or more per week &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; be associated with ED. Data&#xA;  revealed that there &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; be a reduced probability of ED in those who&#xA;  ride less than 3 h per week and ED &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; be more likely in bikers who&#xA;  ride more than 3 h per week. More population-based research is needed&#xA;  to better define this relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last sentence is key. Granted, there are drawbacks to population-based studies like this. One major problem is that the data are self-reported. Another drawback is they their sample probably does not include elite or high-level sport cyclists, who might have better equipment or better technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that your experience may vary? Absolutely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T15:23:49.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-28T16:53:44.467" Score="4" ViewCount="3290" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has a hard time turning the Revoshift grip on her Electra Townie 7D due to arthritis issues in her hands. Is there a way to help with this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1890" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T17:22:45.817" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T13:45:54.577" Title="Electra Shifter (Revoshift) is hard to turn" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5106" CreationDate="2011-07-28T16:58:47.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't find a close-up picture of that wheel on the net, to get an idea of its construction.  Without seeing the crack, and its relation to the wheel design, it's hard to tell how serious it might be (or even whether it's structural vs cosmetic).  A good bike shop mechanic should be able to look at it, though, and tell you if it's a valid concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Matt indicated, the most likely danger is that the spoke will pull through and give you the equivalent of a busted spoke.  (Can we say &quot;busted&quot; here, or will the literary police get on our tail?)  Anyway, that's an inconvenience but unlikely to result in a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The odds of the crack migrating through to the side of the rim such that a section of the sidewall might separate (or the brake pad grab violently) is pretty small, but real.  You should check the crack after every ride, at least (and maybe after every 20 miles or so while riding), to make sure it's not spreading.  If the crack spreads over onto the sidewall at all you should stop using the rim ASAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Remember that rims can be easily replaced -- there's no need to buy an entire new wheel if the hub is in good condition.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T16:58:47.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5067" CreationDate="2011-07-28T17:11:07.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://vancouver.ca/engsvcs/transport/cycling/separated/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seperated bike lanes in Vancouver&lt;/a&gt; seem to work well over here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my limited riding on these lanes, here are the some advantages that I have observed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bikes get a separate set of traffic lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cars have a controlled right turn signal, so minimal chance of a car turning right into a cyclist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Essentially separated from cars, your only potential contact with a car is at an intersection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do agree that the lanes are sometimes narrow, and maintaining momentum behind a slower cyclist going uphill may be difficult. I don't ride on them during rush hour, but they don't seem crowded enough to cause cyclists to overtake dangerously or otherwise ride irresponsibly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="210" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T17:11:07.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5118" CreationDate="2011-07-28T18:52:53.313" Score="0" ViewCount="1149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am contemplating riding from New Jersey, across the George Washington Bridge, across Manhattan, into Queens and on to work in Long Island.  I am already spending up to 2 hours on the drive due to traffic, and I think it will take me about 2.5 to 3 hours on the bike.  I am considering doing it one way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is possible routes across Long Island.  I only need to get out to Bethpage, between the Northern State/Southern State highways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at maps, it seems that my best option is Queensboro bridge (Aka 59th St, aka Koch bridge) to Queens Boulevard, and then stay on 25A which changes names, pretty much the whole way out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is whether this is a rideable road.  Last summer I was lucky enough to be able to ride 30+ miles to Parsipanny, NJ, and riding along Rt 46 where it has a paved shoulder was a dream come true!  The trucks and cars zipping by just dragged me along.  A pleasure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have never even driven Queens Blvd, and do not really have time to try it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google Maps, selecting bike routing has a convoluted, complicated, longer route, trying to hit parks and bike paths as best it can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to make this more relevant, I am looking for a good bike route, out of Manhattan and across Long Island.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T19:56:02.373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T19:56:02.373" Title="Suggested route across Long Island?" Tags="&lt;us&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5111" CreationDate="2011-07-28T20:26:33.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend getting a rear Shimano trigger shifter.  This would mean getting both a trigger shifter and a grip because I think your current grip is designed for the Revoshift shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part I'd recommend for this use is the shimano acera 7-speed trigger shifter, which costs about $15, if you're in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are mechanically inclined, it's pretty easy to do the work yourself, and it's a lot of fun when you get it working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not mechanically inclined, bring it to your &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/254#254&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt; to install.  This will save you the effort, and you eliminate the chance of irritating your wife for breaking her bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T20:48:24.133" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4967" CreationDate="2011-07-28T22:10:33.513" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked something similar here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4460/why-am-i-breaking-a-ridiculous-number-of-spokes&quot;&gt;Why am I breaking a ridiculous number of spokes?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: I was breaking a lot of spokes even after replacing and retruing, and it is not unlikely that you need to replace your wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but $30 to replace some spokes seems like a lot, and it's a relatively trivial task. If you can your hands on some tools and find a guide (or, ideally, someone who has replaced a spoke before) you can do it yourself and feel all wonderful and confident and walk around your house with oil on your hands like its the blood of a buffalo and you can give yourself a Native American sounding name like Spoke Foot or Grease-in-his-hair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd go with Spoke Foot, it's got a good assonance to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1686" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T22:10:33.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2120" CreationDate="2011-07-28T22:39:51.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advantage?  They make more money for the spoke company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T22:39:51.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5114" CreationDate="2011-07-29T03:18:29.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Astoria and bike over the Queensboro bridge to work in Manhattan, and back, every weekday. I've also biked all over the general area. Personally, I would not take Queens Boulevard. It's mostly a four-lane situation, and is not pleasant for cycling. It's complex and constantly changing situation that will have you going quite slow to watch out for cars coming from every which way. Not to mention some cars park paralell, and some in other directions. You have to watch for doors, and also getting backed into. If you have to cross from one side to the other at any point, good luck. I had to do that a few times when biking to Maspeth, and I just gave up and walked it at a crosswalk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bethpage is really far considering you are all the way in NJ. Biking in in the morning and using some other mode of transportation to get home is a good idea. Going both ways every day would be too much for most people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest listening to Google Maps. Their cycling directions have done well for me, and the path it charts from 59th street to Bethpage looks good. You have to remember complicated directions, but the tradeoff is you avoid really complicated traffic patterns and traffic itself. You'll also avoid lots of traffic lights making you stop all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'll see you on the bridge. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1332" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T03:18:29.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5225" CreationDate="2011-07-29T10:52:07.283" Score="12" ViewCount="4500" Body="&lt;p&gt;AS part of my investigation on my bike replacement, I'm starting to look at a trike. I like the idea of a trike as it looks to be much more comfortable, much faster, but also much more expensive (in general).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My purpose for the bike is for my commute to work (~30 km per day). This may not sound much, but I also want to ride in the winter time (snow and ice). A trike looks to provide better stability and safer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the net, there look to be two competing styles: either two wheels at the rear like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://hasebikes.com/29-1-recumbent-trike-kettwiesel-allround.html&quot;&gt;Kettwiesel Allround&lt;/a&gt;, or two wheels at the front like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://greenspeed.com.au/gt1.html&quot;&gt;Greenspeed GT1&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who have ridden these trikes, what is your advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1657" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-06T23:35:22.270" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T15:33:53.657" Title="What should I consider when looking at a recumbent trike for commuting and winter riding?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;tricycle&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5111" CreationDate="2011-07-29T12:50:57.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a while all shifters get a bit harder to work due to the cables drying out of lubrication, getting dirt in them and the cable strands oxidising. Replace the cable - both inner and outer - and you may get silky smooth shifting again. This could do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @thajigisup says, go to a shop and find the shifter that works best for her. 'Old fashioned' top-mount levers might not be in the shop but they are definitely a consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally I am very disappointed by the exceptionally conservative bike trade that only allows mainstream sports-fad products of zero innovation level to get into showrooms. Shimano have created several groupsets with electric push button gears for the recreational market and even tried to get a fully automatic gear system accepted by those manufacturers that are stuck in tradition dictated by the UCI governing body for cycle sport. Fair play to Electra for creating some bikes with geometry that suits non-racers, however, they could do with focusing a bit more on functionality, to make bikes that do suit those who do have small hands with arthritis like my own mum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe get something that will work for now, e.g. new cable plus track-mitts might provide the easy-leverage. Research the cool electric components that Shimano do offer, beg your distributor to get them or source them from the Netherlands (one of the few markets for such parts). Then, maybe for Christmas or a birthday, deck your wife's bike out with ultimate luxury electric gearing. You will enjoy the project and be able to share your experience of putting it all together with others that don't suit the tired race only geometry offered by most of the trade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone on these forums is going to end up with arthritis or worse one day, pioneer the technology for the rest of us so we get better than a choice of zimmer frames in our old age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T12:50:57.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3454" CreationDate="2011-07-29T13:52:09.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also purchase an &lt;A HREF=&quot;http://www.xtracycle.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Xtracycle&lt;/A&gt; kit (the &lt;A HREF=&quot;http://www.xtracycle.com/freeradical/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FreeRadical&lt;/A&gt;) to convert your existing frame into a longtail -- these have both passenger seats and footrests available (the latter being not only convenient for your passenger, but necessary in some jurisdictions to make passenger-carrying legal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a longtail cargo bike can come in handy for other reasons too. That said, they start at $500 -- I'm not sure exactly what your target budget is here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="903" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T01:27:07.483" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T01:27:07.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3454" CreationDate="2011-07-29T15:21:36.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to look into getting something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trail-gator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trail Gator&lt;/a&gt; which can be used to tow a child's bike behind a standard bike.  I don't think that weight would be a problem as most children's bikes are actually Bike Shaped Objects.  I think my kids' bike weights more than most road bikes.  Might take some adjustments to get the front wheel off the ground on a full size bike but you may be able to make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T15:21:36.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5127" CreationDate="2011-07-29T15:29:40.187" Score="4" ViewCount="3081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to the NYC region, and just recently found out that the LIE even has service roads!  I was wondering how rideable the service roads are.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. Can you actually get across the various interchanges on a bike?  (Clearly if cars are expected to merge back onto the highway to ride across the interchange then that is a problem on a bike.  Though I would be willing if the cops don't care...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of this, I am curious how far the service road extends, that it is possible to ride.  If there are known areas with issues, are there workarounds known?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T15:10:06.827" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T20:12:39.220" Title="How rideable is the Long Island Expressway service road?" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3702" CreationDate="2011-07-29T16:04:29.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had great luck with old Trek mountain hardtails (Trek 820, 930) retrofitted with road tires. I've been commuting daily on these for quite some time. They support racks and fenders and can be found for relatively cheap on Craigslist. A good friend of mine toured Alaska on his Trek 930 (fitted with fenders, racks, toe-clip pedals, and an extra water bottle holder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a Trek 820 for $105 on Craigslist and it's been great (albeit after replacing several parts - pedals, seat, tires - to name a few, and getting it tuned up and tightened).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1891" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T16:04:29.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="222" CreationDate="2011-07-29T19:20:05.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of the solution for me was orthotics in my shoes.  According to the chiropractor I was working with, pronation in the feet can cause stress up the leg to the ITB and all the way up into the lower back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put orthotics in my regular shoes and my running shoes.  My bike fitter was able to put shims in my biking shoes in the cleats to help with pronation on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV, but it was part of the solution with stretches, ice, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thestick.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the stick&lt;/a&gt;, and massage to get rid of the pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T19:20:05.137" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-29T19:20:05.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5124" CreationDate="2011-07-29T19:36:31.430" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The LIRR service road is extremely rideable. I used it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=1r4vFZo&amp;amp;page_id=149171&amp;amp;v=2Z&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;when I ride through Long Island last year&lt;/a&gt;, and found it to be extremely low-traffic, well-paved (mostly), and the intersections are easily navigated with basic traffic skills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/4653238574/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;IMG_3216.JPG by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4653238574_869850bdc7.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;281&quot; alt=&quot;IMG_3216.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the service road is easy to use is that most traffic seems to want to be on the LIE proper, so doesn't stay on the road long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two one-way service roads. If you take the outer lane (away from the LIE exit and entrance ramps) you should be fine. I had no issues getting past the intersections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it from near Hempstead Harbor to most of the way into Queens. (Sorry, I don't remember which roads.) But the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.transalt.org/files/resources/mapsuffolk.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Long Island Bike May&lt;/a&gt; shows that I-495 (the expressway) bikeable all the way out to Holbrook. Can anyone confirm this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.790" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T02:19:05.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="222" CreationDate="2011-07-30T01:27:47.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a sports doctor and he performed an ITB release. It was a very quick procedure peformed under local anasthetic where they partially cut the ITB, lengthening it. I walked out of the doctors and was back on the bike a few weeks. Since then I've had no trouble at all. I would really recommend discussing it with your doctor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surgery is mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iliotibial_band_syndrome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;. There is more information &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.orthotrauma.com.au/knee-procedures/itb-release/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T01:27:47.393" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T01:27:47.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5134" CreationDate="2011-07-30T16:58:02.410" Score="5" ViewCount="776" Body="&lt;p&gt;What tools are required to begin building a frame? Are there DIY substitutes for any of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there things that aren't requirements, but simplify the process enough to be worth the cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from classes at a place like &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeschool.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UBI&lt;/a&gt;, how do you start learning what is required to practice this art form?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T18:28:59.873" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T20:34:04.590" Title="What tools are required to begin building a frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5131" CreationDate="2011-07-30T17:46:11.077" Score="16" ViewCount="7042" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I know it would totally ruin the clean lines and the uncluttered, (well maybe just a discreet front brake), looks, but I've never seen this question asked, much less answered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chain guard does more than protect the chain from wear. While fingers are unlikely, I could see sticks and brush, or a piece of clothing getting stuck. When that happens without freewheel the entire mass of the rider and bike times velocity squared would be utilized to crush the obstruction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I exaggerating the risks or is there something fundamental I'm misunderstanding? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1606" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T15:56:46.320" Title="isn't a fixie without a full chain guard a safety hazard?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5130" CreationDate="2011-07-30T18:05:59.623" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're not exaggerating the risk as far as what would happen to the object that managed to get jammed in to a fixie drivetrain at speed. You are perhaps exaggerating the risk of that happening, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see many objects managing that feat, without serious planning on someones' part, and unless it's flesh and bone, or something that was hard enough that the chainring wouldn't cut through it, then there would be minimal harm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a stick gets caught in the chain ring, it will get cut in half. So what if it does? Nothing will happen to the rider, and even the chance of damage to the bike is minimal. Same thing with brush. Unless it's large enough to stop you pedaling, then it's not a problem. And since fixies are rarely ridden off road, the chance of these 2 things happening would be pretty remote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had my pant's leg get caught in a fixie chainring, and all it did was tear the pants, and teach me to choose better what clothing I ride in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no real harm to a chainguard, but not a lot of benefit either that I can see, so if you want one, go for it, but I'll be fine without. I'd say the lack of brakes is a far bigger hazard when riding on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T18:05:59.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5133" CreationDate="2011-07-30T19:31:34.023" Score="1" ViewCount="1958" Body="&lt;p&gt;just picked up a vintage bicycle for C$75 and want to use it as a project bike. I'm curious before I start exactly what bike it is. The bike has the brand &lt;em&gt;Sprinter&lt;/em&gt; and it says &lt;em&gt;Gran Touring&lt;/em&gt; on the top tube. I can't seem to find any info online. It seems to be made in Canada and has a sticker at the bottom for Calgary Co-op, which today is just a grocery store. I've posted some pictures here in case someone can identify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropbox.com/u/614041/web/sprinter0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sprinter 0&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropbox.com/u/614041/web/sprinter1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sprinter 1&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropbox.com/u/614041/web/sprinter2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sprinter 2&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropbox.com/u/614041/web/sprinter3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sprinter 3&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.827" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T02:25:05.977" Title="Just bought a vintage Sprinter Gran Touring, where to find info?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5132" CreationDate="2011-07-30T20:14:40.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Gran Touring' alludes to 'Gran Sport' and 'Gran Turismo'. These were Campagnolo names used in former times for their derailleurs. I am not old enough to remember when those former times were, but they were decades and decades ago!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brand means nothing if this is a department store bike. That means you have free reign to do what you like with it. You can even get it shot=blasted with braze-ons for those cables if you really wanted. Personally I would be tempted to keep the cables as is but maybe get some proper clips to hook them onto the frame. You can get them from a retro bike specialist, e.g. one that does Sturmey Archer 3 speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The geometry and ride should be good, maybe put the seat back so it is mid-rails instead of inch or so forward. Thebolt holding the seat on should go behind the seatpin, not in front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you have a non-standard wheel size, treat yourself to some Schwalbe ones to fit, read the ERTRO size off the side and special order from your LBS accordingly. In that way you won't have to pay postage. Modern Schwalbe tyres will be consistent with the bike and be puncture 'proof'. This will make the difference between oddity and everyday utility bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes of that vintage had saddlebags for carrying stuff, consider getting one as this will make the bike look better than it is, albeir doubling the price if you get a UK Carradice one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those 'Northroad' bars are really comfy when riding in traffic or on bumpy trails. The turning circle will probably be that of a bus with that steering rake so adjust your riding style accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing a full refurb then give yourself a whole weekend for re-packing the bearings etc. Some sizes may be non-metric, that might be to watch out for. Given the super paint quality apart from the top-tube scratches you could just ride as is and put some 'One Less Car!' stickers on the top-tube after you have got the 'gran touring' stickers off. Steal some nail-polish remover from someone female if you haven't got any useful thinners for that. T-Cut should bring up the shine on the chrome not that it really needs it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very nice find, definitely just a department store bike though, which is good because you can do what you want to it without destroying some notional priceless heritage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T20:14:40.160" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5129" CreationDate="2011-07-30T20:34:04.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not so long ago every reasonably sized town in the UK had one or more bike shops that could build a custom frame. I cannot believe this has gone during my lifetime. Anyway, the entry into frame building used to be quite low. You needed a jig, an oxy-acetylene torch, lugs, a frameset and some brass alloyed specially for brazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a supplier of all of the above in the UK that you may wish to contact:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.henryjames.com/ujig.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.henryjames.com/ujig.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before investing in the whole kit you may want to have a go at brazing things together with the torch. This is great fun and with relatively simple projects such as repair jobs of non-bicycle things you can pick up experience with the torch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most frame-builders of yore bought tubesets with only those able to demonstrate skill being allowed to buy Reynolds 531. An even smaller elite were allowed onto 753 that you need to silver solder instead of the normal bronze brazing. You can start out with the 'gas pipe' hi-ten steel frameset, maybe to make something special such as your own recumbent. Then you can move on as you feel you want to to try the more expensive steel and fillet rather than lug construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how you make the leap onto 6 and 7 series aluminium welding, but steel is a great material to work with and you will have a lot of fun keeping the lost art of frame building alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for going on a course, what you really need is enthusiasm and someone to show you. You need to be an apprentice of some retired person that has skills in what used to be commonplace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Entry into the above is really not that expensive when compared to a fancy road bike, you are getting me inspired to give it a go myself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T20:34:04.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5130" CreationDate="2011-07-30T20:56:08.073" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have came off due to clothing getting caught and I don't think the danger can be over-looked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are a man of taste and style, take a look at this minimalist chainguard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sogrenibikes.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=1&amp;amp;products_id=8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sogrenibikes.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=1&amp;amp;products_id=8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NxnVk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a few workshop tools you could make your own...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same company also make an uber-cool trouser clip that you may also want to check out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-07-30T21:39:29.887" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T21:39:29.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-31T04:52:15.520" Score="47" ViewCount="62216" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our 2.2 year old toddler seems very interested in a random, abandoned bike seat we found, so we're considering some method of letting him ride with us. But I am not sure whether to get ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A bike &lt;strong&gt;seat&lt;/strong&gt;, which fits one toddler, and mounts above the rear wheel on the rack&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A bike &lt;strong&gt;trailer&lt;/strong&gt;, which fits possibly two toddlers, has its own wheels and attaches to the rear of the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me the trailer is more flexible and potentially &lt;em&gt;safer&lt;/em&gt;, since the center of gravity is much closer to the ground. I also worry that having a thirty+ pound weight on the rear rack will cause us to make more riding mistakes, and if the bike falls over, there goes the toddler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the bike seat seems more &lt;em&gt;fun&lt;/em&gt; for the toddler since he can see more of the ride and feels more like a co-rider than a passenger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard for me to decide without trying both, and right now I've tried neither. Can someone who has tried both a bike trailer and a bike seat with their toddlers share their experiences and thoughts on this? I'm interested in the pros and cons from people who have spent some time in the saddle with their toddlers using both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1684" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T01:55:08.720" Title="Toddler bike seat vs. bike trailer?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;children&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2011-07-31T05:06:23.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine wrote &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20101010175616/http://offbeatmama.com:80/2010/10/biking-with-toddlers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a blog post&lt;/a&gt; about this recently, building a pretty solid argument for a bike seat that goes between your seat and the handlebars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We considered a bike cart, something like the InStyle Quick N EZ Bicycle Trailer, but honestly? I wasn't totally comfortable with the idea of Jasper being in a cart behind me — a cart that people driving their monster SUVs and trucks wouldn't be able to see easily. Since we ride on the road, I wanted something that meant I could see Jasper, know that he was safe, and not have to worry about him overheating or the driver behind us not realizing someone was in the cart in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then we moved on to bike seats that go behind you — something like the Beto Deluxe Reclining Seat, or, if you're working with a budget, the Bell Classic Bicycle Carrier. The back-of-the-bike-seat seemed a little bit better, at first, but then it rapidly occurred to both of us that my balance would be thrown way off. Plus, I wouldn't be able to see him — my primary problem with the cart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some random Amazon searches, I happened upon &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B003SWGANI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Bobike Mini Seat&lt;/a&gt; — a front-of-the-bike seat!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2021-02-25T01:55:08.720" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T01:55:08.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2011-07-31T05:13:14.117" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had both. A really nice trailer and a child bike seat -- where the child sits between the rider and the handlebar (like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000FIH0EG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WeeRide Kangaroo Child Bike Seat&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AwOjv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Weeride kangaroo child bike seat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My daughter was ok with the trailer, but absolutely preferred the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found with the seat in front of me, the weight didn't affect me almost at all, and if the bike was going to fall, I'd be in a much better position to protect my child (since she's directly in front of me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used that for a long time and never ever had an issue (and let's face it, with the kid along for the ride, you're not likely to ever ride like a madman, right?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She's six years old, and still misses it (we stopped when she was about 3.5 yrs old--just getting too big!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1911" LastEditorUserId="36782" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T08:40:17.850" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T08:40:17.850" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5130" CreationDate="2011-07-31T05:19:51.833" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend lost two front teeth and part of his face on the road when his shoe lace got caught in the chain of his track bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, do whatever you feel comfortable doing, and feel free to tell that story to anyone who makes fun of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1913" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T05:19:51.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2011-07-31T05:29:59.593" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking as a parent and a former 3 year old, I'd advise against the rear bike seat. When I was 3, my mom bought one of those and popped me on it. We were out riding for a long time and I wanted to stop, so... I jammed my foot into the rear wheel. That was a REALLY bad idea. Lesson learned: don't stick foot in bike wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I'm a parent myself, I think I'd rather have my kid in a bike trailer or one of the seats like Chris or Garret mentioned that goes between your seat and the handlebars. To me, it seems like you'd have better control and could better protect the kid if something bad happens. And the something bad would NEVER be your kid sticking his foot in the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1912" LastEditorUserId="124" LastEditDate="2011-07-31T05:59:02.530" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T05:59:02.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2011-07-31T06:35:55.980" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used both and prefer the trailer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weatherproof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easily swapped from one bike to another&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Works with my good racer and a mountain bike that would never fit a seat rack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A much lower center of gravity. You almost don't notice it's there, while the child seat makes the bike less stable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plus, you can also fit a picnic bag or shopping in the trailer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1915" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2020-08-05T17:41:25.403" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T17:41:25.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2011-07-31T07:07:27.793" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having used them both, I say they are useful in different contexts. The bike seat I have is someting like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VeWav.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bike seat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;combined with a dress guard like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EboOm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no fear for small feet getting stuck. The seat is much faster when you just want to pop over to get some milk and such, but its limiting when bringing more then one child with you or have more goods to carry (on the other hand its wonderful when you have no kid but grocery bags). I stopped using it when my youngest was about 3½ years old, it then started to feel to wobbly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand a trailer is more work to get going, but useful with heavier kids (mine is rated up to 35kg). I bought it when I separated and didn't have access to a car anymore and it have served us well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1916" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T07:07:27.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2011-07-31T10:23:55.123" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use both (we have an 18 month year old and a 3 year old). The trailer for going riding on tracks, small roads and old disused railways at the weekends, the seat for taking the older one to nursery on 'bigger' roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trailer is fun for both of them, plus they can sleep in it, and we can cover a bit of distance - the seat is probably more comfortable and safer/more sensible for riding in town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seat does add a bit of weight and you can't swing your leg over the saddle to get on (or at least without performing a roundhouse kick on your son/daughter), so that can be a bit of a challenge - but really it works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1920" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T10:23:55.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5148" CreationDate="2011-07-31T11:18:39.900" Score="12" ViewCount="48004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a new pair of road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a triathlete (Sprint mostly) and I am interested to know, what computer should I buy now? wired or wireless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mainly do not like wireless things (I don't do wireless accessories - they tend to fail on you when you most need them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons I may consider which type to buy will be:&#xA;- Price (wired usually lower)&#xA;- accountability - (wired will less fail)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only think of why NOT to buy a wireless computer, and would like to know your inputs as well please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1921" LastEditorUserId="1921" LastEditDate="2012-06-19T05:55:53.973" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T18:31:26.840" Title="Wired or Wireless bike computer?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5149" CreationDate="2011-07-31T11:37:03.643" Score="5" ViewCount="27731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have damaged my rear derailer and are looking for a replacement, aside from replacing it with the exact same model, what do I look for in terms of compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I note that there are long medium and short cage sizes, what is the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there are 7, 8 and 9 speed versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some models I have seen have large plastic pulleys and look like they are definitely not for a mountain bike. What is this about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T14:59:45.323" Title="How do I select a rear deraileur for my mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2011-07-31T11:59:35.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chief advantage of the wireless is that it doesn't have wires that you have to route, and which can get snagged.  In fact, that's probably the only advantage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my old wired Cateye gave up the ghost (the cadence sensor basically fell apart), I bought a new Cateye Strada wireless unit, and it's been a bit of a PITA.  First unit didn't work at all, so I returned that and got a second.  It works, but setting it up the radio is non-trivial, and they saved 50 cents by putting the wheel and cadence sensors in one unit, so it's really tricky to get the pickup adjusted right.  And on that unit the stupid one-button design causes the it to switch displays when you hit a bump, reset if you rest your hand on it for an instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't understand why so few units have cadence anymore -- I use my cadence more than my MPH.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt; Finally solved the one-button-hit-a-bump problem by placing a tiny blob of silicone caulk between the unit and the bracket.  Will make it hard to change the battery when the time comes, but I'll probably replace the entire unit then anyway -- the Strada sucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-06-19T10:41:53.153" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T10:41:53.153" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2011-07-31T13:10:18.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wireless computer is capable of all the functions of any wired computer and often more, since any currently sold higher end computer will have wireless as a feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wired computer is capable of most of the same functions. The principle difference is the need to run wiring around your bike. This is a minor issue if you only have a front wheel speed sensor, but if you add cadence, or also use a generator hub, then the wiring paths will be quite busy, and difficult to make &quot;clean&quot; in appearance on your pretty new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally recommend a wireless computer. A quality brand will be very simple to set up. They basically require zip tying the sensors in place, ensuring that the magnet which trips the sensor circuit is in the right place in relation to the sensor, and spinning the wheel to pair the unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every brand has slightly different pairing instructions, and the more feature filled and pricey the unit is, the more necessary it is to follow the directions step by step. Radio interference is an issue that some early units had, but that has long since been dealt with, by encrypting the radio signal, and only recognizing data from the correct encryption and frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage of the wireless computer is that if you have more than one bike you only need a couple of extra sensors and the wireless computer can easily be swapped from one bike to another. The Garmin 500 (and probably others) allow 3 different bikes to be setup on the one trip computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, do the wireless. They are just as reliable, just as easy or easier to set up, and look better on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-06-19T18:30:04.810" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T18:30:04.810" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5146" CreationDate="2011-07-31T13:31:15.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A derailleur for your mountain bike should match the specifications on the original derailleur. That is, while it doesn't need to be the same model of derailleur, it does need to be the same brand, in almost every case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also needs to match the number of gears, or have more intended. Meaning a 7 speed will fit for 5 and 6 speed bikes. An 8 speed will work for 7 and 8 speed. A 9 speed will work for 8 and 9 speed, and sometimes 7 speed (but no promises.) A 10 speed mountain derailleur has more limitations. It may work with 8 or 9 speed, or it may not, depending on model and brand, and other variations. It is the newest, and least tested, with non 10 speed systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the cage length, either short, medium, or long, should be the same as the original. If you don't know what yours is, then long is the safest bet, but you may also need to change the length of your chain. The difference between long and short cages is the amount of chain the derailleur is able to absorb, which in turn determines the size of the gears you can run, particularly as relates to the front chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The large plastic pulley derailleurs you have seen are called Mega Range derailleurs. They are generally used for department store quality bikes, or hybrids, and are definitely not intended for a mountain bike. They give a very easy climbing gear, but are low quality, and often shift very poorly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. If you need more info, feel free to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T13:31:15.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2011-07-31T13:39:16.813" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would never use anything but a trailer for safety reasons alone.  The amount of force which can be applied to a small child's head from a fall from a bike seat can cause a severe injury.  Even as an adult riding carefully on a bike path I've had an accident (dog running in front of me).  With a trailer it is nearly impossible to flip or cause other blunt force damage to the passengers.  Short of riding off a cliff or getting run over by an automobile the kiddos are safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1925" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T13:39:16.813" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5146" CreationDate="2011-07-31T13:53:07.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was another thread on pretty much the same subject about 2 weeks back, but I didn't find it after a weak attempt at a search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As zenbike indicates you need to match the # of speeds and the &quot;cage length&quot;, though simply picking a derailer that claims to be, say, &quot;long cage&quot; isn't a reliable technique for sizing cage length.  Rather, you need to check the tooth &quot;capacity&quot;, which is the difference in # of teeth between the largest two cogs (front and rear) and the smallest two.  This specifies (indirectly) the amount of chain that the derailer must &quot;absorb&quot; when going from the &quot;tightest&quot; cog combo to the &quot;loosest&quot;.  (Also check the specs for the largest and smallest rear cogs that the derailer is good for.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a true mountain bike, one that's used off-road and in weeds and brush, you want to avoid an overly long derailer that will hang down too close to the ground and thus be more subject to damage or picking up weeks -- pick the one that fits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Unfortunately the old Suntour triple design is no longer made -- it packed a large tooth capacity into a short arm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T13:53:07.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2011-07-31T15:07:29.903" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;We live in the country, and ride on gravel roads pretty much exclusively. We used a trailer for years and have kept it even though the kids outgrew it long ago. It remains useful years later when the kid(s) are riding solo. Our trailer is over 20 years old and we used it just last week, riding out to pick up our CSA veggies, which probably weighed more than many toddlers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big trailer advantages are that it can hold two, it can hold stuff (snacks, drinks, diaper bag, picnic blanket) as well as people, and it can hold a sleeping infant in a car seat. As well, if you need to stop and get off your bike for something, you don't need to get the child out of the trailer and you probably would need to get them out of a seat. Since ours comes with a cover, you can also keep a little one shaded or rain-protected easily. It lets you start taking your child with you much younger than a seat does, and simplifies longer trips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that some older trailers have safety issues around finger entrapment in the wheels. If you buy a used one, check first if it was recalled for those problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1922" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T15:07:29.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2011-07-31T15:51:01.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another consideration for wireless sensors is that they have batteries that are (usually) not replaceable (at least the Polar unit I have). This means that you have to replace the sensors when the batteries run out. Granted, this has no happened to me yet, several thousand miles in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wired sensors use a simple circuit wherein the wire carries two halves of a circuit. The sensor has a small magnetic reed switch that gets closed when the magnet on the wheel passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T15:51:01.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-07-31T16:08:14.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Chamois&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The padding in a pair of cycling shorts. Traditionally this was made using chamois leather but is now usually a synthetic material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/562/8&quot;&gt;Chamois cream&lt;/a&gt; can be used to prevent chafing while riding. With chamois leather, it can dry out and stiffen, so chamois cream is applied to the chamois to keep it supple. Modern chamois creams, however, are designed to be applied to the rider themselves rather than the synthetic padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T15:33:49.303" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-31T16:08:14.543" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2011-07-31T16:29:23.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a wireless unit and I like it a lot.  One thing I don't like about it is that the wheel sensor is quite a bit larger than the wired units, because it has to have a place  for the battery, which is a large &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CR2032_battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CR2032&lt;/a&gt;.  One wireless unit I had in the past would show I was travelling (quite fast actually) when stopped at a traffic light.  I figured this was due to the sensor loop.  My current unit doesn't have the problem.  They were both relatively cheap units so I'm not sure why the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part, I've found that wireless units work pretty well.  The batteries in the screen usually die before the battery in the sensor, so I just replace them at the same time, so that I don't have to worry about the sensor cutting out.  I currently have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.louisgarneau.com/ca-en/product/310748/1493712/Cyclo-computers/EOS_13WL_CYCLOMETER&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Louis Garneau&lt;/a&gt; which I found was quite reasonably priced.  Some of the cheaper units have very few functions, which is something you should watch out for.  The first wireless unit I had (CatEye brand) didn't even give average speed, so you had to note down your start and stop times if you wanted to figure this out.  The one I have now has quite a few features, although it lacks a Cadence meter.  However, that isn't something I'm too interested in as I can usually tell if I'm working hard enough based on the speed and riding conditions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T16:29:23.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2011-07-31T17:19:59.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bike computers are really at the tech level of a 1980's digital watch, which is fine if you just want the time, speed and distance functions. I have got a drawer full of dead ones somewhere. The most useful functions beyond the basics are cadence and altitude. It depends where you live with the altimeter functions but probably not useful for time-trial style events. For me though, particularly if touring it is really useful to know how much height you have in the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing indoor training on rollers you will need a sensor on the back wheel, that is what you get with cadence measurement computers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for wireless versus wired, the problem I have had with entry level wireless is that they lie. There is a loop to stop the trolleys escaping from Tesco's car park that sets my speedometer as going at 99+ mph. That is annoying as I like to get my maximum speed and average speed yet what I get from the speedometer is useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can start out with a basic wired Cateye/Sigma with cadence and spare bracket to put on your other bike. Further down the line when you get heart rate monitor and need data download link you will be able to make a better decision on what to get based on your needs. To explore the high end bicycle telemetry options you can look up what they have on the Tour de France these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T17:19:59.333" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5145" CreationDate="2011-08-01T03:56:11.250" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only ever used wired computers because they seemed more reliable. However, I have a friend who uses a wireless computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem I've observed is that when he starts riding after a rest he has to make sure he 'wakes up' his computer otherwise it won't track the ride until he does. He's forgotten (and lost ride data) often enough that this is a big dealbreaker for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-06-19T18:31:26.840" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T18:31:26.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2011-08-01T06:05:55.463" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider at least one alternative to your (seemingly binary) choice - trike with frontal bay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/2011/feb/01/cargo-bike-bullitt-cetma-christiania&quot;&gt;Cargo bike makers carry high hopes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or their more attractive cousin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kangaroobike.com/&quot;&gt;Kangaroobike by Winther&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are similar ones available in your locality so you don't have to consider complex logistics to get them from Denmark or even immigration to .dk in the bottom line ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1939" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T06:05:55.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2011-08-01T13:26:01.543" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll not speak for the trailer, so much as against the rear child bike seat. My sister, was at 2 years old, riding in a high quality, bike shop sold and properly mounted bike seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She was strapped in, and all was well. My dad was the captain of the vessel, and they were having a grand time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad hit a broken bottle on the road. Never saw it, he said. But the cut in the tire was enough to deflate it pretty instantly, and between balancing the weight of the child on the back, and the suddenly squirrelly handling of the bike, he crashed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dad was fine. He was able to protect himself as the bike went down. My sister, in her strapped in condition, was less ok. She had 31 stitches in her face and whiplash, before all was said and done. Because she hadn't the age, strength or experience to protect herself, and my Dad couldn't do it either in the middle of an unexpected emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a post here which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(and lets face it, with the kid along for the ride, you're not likely to ever ride like a madman, right?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The facts are that you don't wear a seat belt for the days when you plan to get in a crash. You do it because you can't guarantee you won't, and it's just smart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel the same way about child seats on bikes. You can protect yourself. The kid can't. And you can't protect them by guaranteeing no accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T13:26:01.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5130" CreationDate="2011-08-01T14:52:30.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling is a safety hazard, it's all a question of risk mitigation, reduction and awareness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fixed-wheel certainly presents a different set of hazards, but my short response to the question is 'no'. I do over 3,000 miles a year on my fixed (almost all of my commuting) and have done so for the last 4-5 years and I've never caught anything in my chain, be it cloth, stick, lace or anything else. But then I generally cycle in shorts or tights with my velcro-strapped cycle shoes - risk avoidance, don't put anything likely to get caught in the vicinity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think you're over-estimating the risks on this dimension; there are risks worth worrying about out there - most of them are behind the steering wheels of metal boxes with 4 wheels - without creating needless ones! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T14:52:30.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5165" CreationDate="2011-08-01T19:17:03.950" Score="47" ViewCount="24623" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every bicycle I have seen in my life has its gears and chain on the right side? Why is this? The only thing I could find regarding this question is &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=23837&quot;&gt;this forum topic&lt;/a&gt;, which speculates about things such as the prevalence of right-handed people, the idea that it is easier to produce right-handed threads since they are more common, and the traditions of mounting a horse, but I couldn't find anything definite. Does anyone here have any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="385" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T19:55:56.643" Title="Why do bikes have their drivetrains on the right?" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;history&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5164" CreationDate="2011-08-01T19:47:03.633" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because (most) people are right handed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right side drivetrains are rooted in the fact that rotating clockwise causes bolts, etc. to tighten—this dates back to the first &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;safety bicycles&quot;&lt;/a&gt; introduced in the 19th century. With the drivetrain on the right, more (standard threaded) parts will be rotating clockwise and thus tightening themselves as the rider pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drivetrains are on the right today because that's what bicycle builders decided to do in the late 1800s. As to why they originally decided to put drivetrains on the right, it's probably because rear cogs used to be screwed on (some still are). Standard threads dictate rear cogs be on the right, so that pedaling force tightens the cogs. (If they were on the left, pedaling force would likely loosen cogs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, left-hand drivetrains are possible, but more difficult to create because more reverse-threaded parts are needed. Generally, things like pedals and bottom brackets have threads that are reversed/asymmetric on one side. They're made specifically to work when the drivetrain is on the right—tightening themselves as the rider pedals. If these standard parts are placed on a bicycle with a drivetrain on the left, then those same parts will be &lt;em&gt;loosening&lt;/em&gt; themselves as the rider rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But why do right-turning bolts tighten? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2014/09/decided-screws-turn-clockwise/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shortly before the safety bicycle was introduced in the 19th century, the right-turning convention was adopted because it's better to have all bolts work the same way and it's easier to turn them &lt;em&gt;with your right hand&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. And most people are right handed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1947" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2018-08-09T19:55:56.643" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T19:55:56.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5167" CreationDate="2011-08-01T22:06:18.107" Score="12" ViewCount="7632" Body="&lt;p&gt;FedEx has a large package for me, and it has me wondering--what's the best way to carry a large box on a bike with a rear rack?  What types of tie-downs, knots, etc should be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context, this is a &quot;regular&quot; bike (not any kind of cargo bike) with a typical rear-rack.  The box is likely 12&quot;x18&quot;x28&quot;, and around 20 pounds and the ride is fairly short.  I'm looking for a simple solution that is primarily stable and secure; I can take a while to tie it on, and I can go slowly getting it home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-01T22:44:59.513" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T09:02:44.803" Title="What is the best technique for carrying a large box on my bike rack?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5166" CreationDate="2011-08-01T22:41:36.277" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most racks have a platform about 3&quot;-4&quot; wide and about 12&quot; long.  Usually 20 pounds is well within the weight limits. This means that weight isn't an issue, but keeping the item steady is. Your package needs to be fairly stiff for this to have any hope of working, since the rack platform is so much smaller. A porteur-style large-platform front rack or a trailer would probably be better than a normal back-rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First recommendation: take a friend. This will be hard to attach with a kickstand holding up your bike (or the bike leaned up against something). It'll be easier if the bike is held straight upright and if you only have to wrestle one thing at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would place it so that it's low and is &quot;wider&quot; rather than &quot;longer&quot;.  There seems to be a natural tendency to want to line up more with the rack, but in my experience that's actually less stable because so much hangs off of the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, 12&quot; as the &quot;height&quot;, 18&quot; as the length and 28&quot; as the width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely that this is tall enough to bump into the seat, so it'll tend to be right behind the seat, which may mean you can't quite use all of the rack platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use compression straps or bungee cords, rops knots take too much technique and time to pull tight and if it's loose or can slip loose it will wobble too much. If it's straps you want something that has a buckling mechanism that you can pull tight and locks up well. If it's bungees you'll want to work out what the reasonably-stretched-out length is (usually about 50% more than the unstretched length).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly how to hook things will depend greatly on the exact details of your rack construction, but there's always some way to hook things on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straps: 2 over 62&quot; long, and 2 over 80&quot; long. Likely that 6' and 9' are the lengths you can find.  Basically, long enough to go around the box front-to-back and side-to-side, with a little extra for going around some of the rack stuff and for pulling stuff tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bungees: 2 with a reasonably stretched length of about 46&quot; and 2 with a reasonably stretched length about 76&quot;.  (or combine bungees together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the shorter straps or bungees, go from the front left of the rack to the back left of the rack with one, and front right to back right with the other. If the bungee is a little too long, try running through the rack and attach to the seat stay or something like that.  If you've done things right at this point, you should find that pressing on the far right or far left stretches the other bungee enough that there's a decent amount of resistance and the package snaps back.  It's important that these two be the same tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then run straps or bungees left-to-right around the package at the front and back of the rack.  If the &quot;front&quot; is too close to the front of the package itself slide it back a little as appropriate, of course. It's okay if these two are a little different in tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, I'm suggesting you run one strap/bungee on the right side like this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lFqTh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bungees on right side of package&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One strap/bungee on the left side like this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tHwDm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bungees on left side of package&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One left-to-right around near the front of the rack like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ot5E2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bungees on front of package&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEXQm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bungees on front, low view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one left-to-right nearer the rear of the rack (no picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not, just both front-to-back bungee runs or the frontmost left-to-right bungee run is quite secure already, because any attempts on the part of the package to twist out of alignment mean stretching the bungee further.  Combining both means it's also impossible for the package to slide out of the bungees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would avoid any diagonal strap/bungee runs, those will tend to pull the package twisted which is less stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-01T23:08:36.020" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T23:08:36.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5076" CreationDate="2011-08-02T00:38:52.923" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bring the oil to 130F or the temperature specified by the bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hotter oil means thinner oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot oil will penetrate your chain and when cooled again, will remain there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About all that cleaning. It's greatly exaggerated. it's a chain. it's probably cheaper to replace it than to clean. Not saying that you should not clean, but water, soap, a rag, and reapplying oil after dry should be enough!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you people suggesting that a person that does not own a bike shop to buy chain cleaner gear and expensive products should be ashamed. it's like redirecting them here &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride. when the chain is full of grime or too noise. clean and oil again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T17:28:49.843" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T17:28:49.843" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5172" CreationDate="2011-08-02T01:24:10.667" Score="3" ViewCount="19754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sebikes.com/lager.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SE Lager fixed&lt;/a&gt;. On the 30th of May this year I did a bit of an overhaul, replacing the rear cog, chain, wheels, tyres and brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the chain last weekend and discovered that it was already over .75 (which I asked about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4975/how-long-should-a-well-maintained-chain-last-and-what-can-i-do-to-prolong-its-lif&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), but less than 1.0. So I decided the replace the chain with a new &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001RPU3P4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KMC Z410 chain&lt;/a&gt;. I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/S0CS0N0TC/title/surly-track-cog-1-8-inch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Surly track cog 1/8 inch, 17t&lt;/a&gt; on the back and since it was only a few months old and with a single chain I decided not to replace it. The chainring is also not old and looks to be in fine condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo showing the old cog (on the left) and a brand new cog (on the right). I couldn't see any appreciable difference which I took as reinforcing my decision that it didn't need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sh4ne.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New vs Old cog&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the next day I went for a ride the drivetrain was incredibly noisy. Clunking and grinding. I could even feel roughness through the pedals. I was thinking maybe the bottom bracket (the only drivetrain component that has not been replaced yet) might have completely fallen apart. What is causing this noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fair warning: I have the answer to this question that I will post shortly. According &lt;a href=&quot;https://skeptics.stackexchange.com/faq#ask&quot;&gt;to&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/17463/should-i-ask-a-question-i-know-the-answer-to&quot;&gt;my&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2008/07/stack-overflow-private-beta-begins/&quot;&gt;research&lt;/a&gt;, asking and answering a question is encouraged as a source of information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I should clarify that I don't have &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; answer to the question. I know how I fixed it, but that doesn't preclude another answer being more informative&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:37.130" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T03:49:56.760" Title="Why is my drivetrain so noisy after replacing the chain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5169" CreationDate="2011-08-02T01:44:01.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally I'd suspect hooking, on a worn cog.  But though there is some barely perceptible hooking on that &quot;worn&quot; cog, it's not nearly enough to cause a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm going to go with the yucky color of that chain.  The bike is rejecting it!  (Or perhaps the chain is just too wide.;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T01:44:01.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5169" CreationDate="2011-08-02T02:01:00.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out the rear cog was making the noise. I replaced the cog as soon as I got home and everything is running silently again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given how little wear there is on the cog, I'm amazed at how noisy it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess there's also an off chance that I had something badly adjusted, but I use a chain tug and didn't change the setting so I don't think the chain tension would have changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T02:01:00.680" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5169" CreationDate="2011-08-02T03:23:09.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixed gears don't have as much tolerance for mismatched wear patterns as geared bikes, because there is no &quot;give&quot; in the drive train system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small amount of wear shown on the used cog is enough to cause this kind of noise in the case of a fixie. I'd be surprised if the same amount of wear caused you any problems at all on a geared machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that the chain was over tensioned. I know you said that you use a tensioner, and that you didn't change the settings, but you used a new, unstretched, and therefore shorter chain. You may have needed to relax the tension by a small amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you removed the wheel to change the cog, It may be that the tension has changed as well. Hard to say for certain, as you made the noise go away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T03:23:09.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5191" CreationDate="2011-08-02T07:46:00.837" Score="17" ViewCount="94998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sebikes.com/bikes/lifestyle/urban-series/lager&quot;&gt;SE Lager&lt;/a&gt; fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How tight should the chain be and what is the best way of measure it? I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut/&quot;&gt;chain tug&lt;/a&gt; so I can be pretty accurate in dialling in the right amount of tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like to have much slop. Part of the joy of riding fixed is having a direct connection to the road. I like to have it adjusted so that there's no significant movement of the pedals when the bike is stationary. This often equates to about a centimeter of movement in the chain if I squeeze the top and bottom of the chain mid-way between the cog and chainring but it's hard to judge how hard I should be pushing to get that movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of information, mostly about centering the chainring(!!) and recommends having the chain as tight as possible without binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="10534" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T14:01:50.890" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T17:13:46.143" Title="How tight should a fixie's chain be?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;chain-tug&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5164" CreationDate="2011-08-02T07:59:10.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why did early manufacturers of safety bicycles put the drivetrain on the right? I have no &lt;em&gt;evidence&lt;/em&gt; for this, but it's always struck me that a large part of the reason is surely that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_bicycle#History&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the safety bicycle originated in a country where you drive on the left&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're pushing your bicycle, or mounting or dismounting it, you're less likely to get chain oil on your clothing if you stand on the side away from the drivetrain. But it also seems sensible to walk or stand on the footway (sidewalk) and hold the bicycle in the road (note the same principle applies even when there's no footway - you want to stand away from passing traffic). Hence in a country where you drive on the left, it makes sense to stand on the left of the bicycle and therefore the drivetrain should be on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that one secret to avoiding getting oil on my trousers is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; to stand to the left of my bicycle when pushing, mounting and dismounting, and always to park it with the right (drivetrain) side against the wall or stand. This even means that when I stop on the left side of the road and lean it against a wall to my left, I turn it around first. But it becomes difficult to keep to this rule when I cycle in countries where they drive on the right - i'd be standing in the road when mounting or dismounting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T07:59:10.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-02T08:34:00.437" Score="11" ViewCount="38802" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got myself a new quick release rear wheel. Fantastic, right? Well, it's sort of a pain because I'm always worried it's going to get nicked. Usually, I just take off the front one and thread the lock through both wheels and the frame, but in unusual situations (eg When locking up two bikes with my one lock) it's necessary to remove the rear wheel. When I put it back on, I worry that I haven't centered it absolutely perfectly, and that I'm going to destroy it by riding it like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, question: &lt;em&gt;how can quickly be sure that I've centered by wheel, other than by just 'eye-balling' it?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT AUG 3 2011&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So thanks for the answers, but a lot of people are addressing how to safely lock a bike. I appreciate that, but my question (italicized above) is regarding centering a wheel. There are other reasons to take off both wheels, like if I need to fit the bike in a car. Thanks again, everyone, because it's also helpful to have tips on how not get your bike stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1686" LastEditorUserId="1686" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T00:49:24.087" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T01:03:51.023" Title="How to center a quick release rear wheel regularly" Tags="&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5183" CreationDate="2011-08-02T08:41:09.480" Score="3" ViewCount="6262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally got lube on my rear brake (v-brake) and my stopping power seems diminished. What is the best way to get it off the brake pads and the rims?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="124" LastEditDate="2011-08-02T21:00:08.497" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T15:49:07.913" Title="Removing lubricant from the rear brake and rim?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5176" CreationDate="2011-08-02T08:56:37.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loosen the V-brakes, so you can access the pads (you can even remove them and clean each individually).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then apply degreaser to them (there are many types, I end up by using a citrus-type or in some more radical cases even use petroleum on the rim, but make sure you clean it with a rug afterwards!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: using a solvent or petroleum can damage some parts of your bike, so make sure you test it first and definitely don't use it on rubber!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the same to the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean it very well with a rug and check if there is any trace of grease, if it has, try to degrease it further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When everything is ok, just reassemble the brakes and test it, if you did everything correctly then it should work ok!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastEditorUserId="1280" LastEditDate="2011-08-02T17:17:23.040" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T17:17:23.040" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5164" CreationDate="2011-08-02T09:11:10.683" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a little known fact that the Wright Brothers invented the left-hand thread for the left-hand pedal in 1900. Therefore, up until then it is highly unlikely that bicycles used any left-hand threads on them at all. Therefore, as noted by @Eric Silva the chainset could have been on the right because that is the simplest way for the sprocket to have been bolted on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays we take threaded nuts and bolts for granted, however, it has been a long journey of understanding to get threaded connectors standardised and working as well as they do now. Steel on steel threaded connectors of the past were far from reliable and far from standardised. Therefore for 'Safety Bicycle 1' there would have been no problem to have made a track-bike style locknut or a left-hand thread to secure the sprocket if it was felt that it was needed to place the chainset on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted by @onestop the safety bicycle, like all the best inventions of that period, was a British design. It was designed for riding on the left with roads that did have pavements (sidewalks) and kerbs. Mounting and dismounting the bike from the kerb, pushing the bike and parking the bike with a pedal on the kerb works out a lot better with the chainset on the right (if you are in a country that 'drives' on the &lt;em&gt;correct&lt;/em&gt; left-side of the road). Clothing gets to stay cleaner and that would have been a huge benefit in Victorian Britain when front-loading automatic washing machines weren't exactly commonplace.  These are lucky benefits and probably were not uppermost considerations in the design of 'Safety Bicycle 1'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing the gears away from the kerb-side of the bike made a lot of sense in the days before cars took over when you could park your bike with it being supported by a pedal on the kerb. Doing so with the kerb on the left means that you are unlikely to damage the chainset or derailleur particularly if the bike falls over. Up until the 1980's this was the proper way to park a bicycle (if my memories of Cycling Proficiency Test serve me correctly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for pushing the bicycle and how that works out better if the bike is on the right hand side, this works out better in countries that drive on the left for all the reasons @onestop cited and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the Highway Code you are supposed to walk a bicycle on the right, facing on-coming traffic, not on the left with traffic coming from where you cannot see. With narrow pavements as found on country lanes you can push the bike with the bike on your right controlled by your (for 90% of the population) stronger right hand, the bike on the pavement with yourself on the road. When on-coming traffic comes along it is relatively easy to step up onto the pavement to clear the road for the on-coming car(s) and you don't have to drag the bike up and down the kerb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like @onestop I also do the turning around thing when leaning the bike against a left-side wall - glad I am not the only one with this quirk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All considered, although the chainset on the right works out best for countries that drive on the left for a whole host of reasons, it was probably the lack of left-hand threads in bicycle design that was the deciding factor. And, your little gem of 'I did not know that' for today is that the Wright Brothers invented the left-hand thread left-pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T09:11:10.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5176" CreationDate="2011-08-02T09:16:45.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should take the opportunity to give your wheels and brake pads a good clean. A bucket of hot water with half a tablet of clothes washing powder and whatever brush you can find will do the job nicely. Wash off with more water and the accumulated dirt on your rims plus the lube will be gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T09:16:45.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2011-08-02T09:35:12.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two types of rear dropout, ones that are vertical and ones that are horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With vertical dropouts you put the gears in top at the back and low at the front. Then you put the wheel in. Then you put some weight on the seat and fold the quick release lever over, applying whatever adjustment needed to get the quick-release tensioned correctly. The lever should fold up rather than down, forward or back as you don't want passing vegetation or other cycles to come into contact with the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horizontal dropouts require pretty much the same procedure however you have the problem of making sure the wheel is equidistant to the chain-stays. This is best done by having good eyesight and holding the wheel in place whilst you fold over the quick-release lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally you have a time penalty each and every time you lock/unlock your bike. You may want to consider investing in a cable loop to go through your D-lock and around the back wheel. These are affordable and need be not that bulky as someone is less inclined to saw through it to get your back wheel than they would be if they were able to get your whole bike. It will deter the casual rather than the determined thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to get a set of replacement quick-release levers with Allen key or 'special key' heads. In the UK these need not set you back more than fifteen pounds for the simple Allen key versions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cl4PJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'special key' versions are worth the premium because you need more than an Allen key to get them undone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RpIrt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are a lot cheaper online, you can get the set for all of £8 if you Google 'Trans-X' quick release skewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the only pain with them is that the key needs to be carried and that does not fit onto a standard keyring too well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T09:35:12.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2011-08-02T11:08:50.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy another lock - the wise advice is to use two anyway: one to secure your bike to something immovable (and one wheel), the other to secure the other wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, given you're not going to be using the quick release so much now, as @mathew recommends, buy some non-QR axles (although that's one more tool to carry around in the event of a puncture). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;QR are great for race changes and quick low-security locking, but I would always remove a QR seat post bolt and normally skewers too. (The tools live in my saddle bag, which I don't mind being QR!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="1131" LastEditDate="2011-08-02T19:57:50.653" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T19:57:50.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5173" CreationDate="2011-08-02T11:12:48.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you've answered your question - as tight as you can (I'd throw in by 'hand' because that would seem to feel right, once you use vices and so on, it's going above and beyond reasonable tightness). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that you need a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; slack because the teeth on the two cogs won't match exactly so you need to allow for some give to line them up independently, but enough to pinch a small amount seems fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T11:12:48.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5176" CreationDate="2011-08-02T11:30:19.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean them.  I'd avoid using any sort of solvent, as it would be bad for the pads and might simply make things worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First undo the noodle so you can access the face of the pads, then wipe pads and rims thoroughly.  Scrub pads and rims with a dab of detergent on a rag, then hose down to remove the detergent.  Reattach noodle.  (I always forget that part.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes will likely still be a bit &quot;slippery&quot;, but riding with the brakes partially engaged for a minute or two should bring things back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T11:30:19.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2011-08-02T11:41:23.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the bike.  On some bikes simply having the axle all the way seated in the dropouts is sufficient to center the wheel, but in others (generally ones with a bolt-on derailer hanger) the wheel is not self-centering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this latter case (or if you're a perfectionist with the other type) you look at the spacing between the tire and the frame, after &quot;hitting bottom&quot; on the shallower dropout slot.  (Look at the space between horizontal chain stays for horizontal dropouts, and the space between the diagonal seat stay for vertical dropouts.)  The same amount of space should be visible on both sides of the tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before centering, get the QR properly adjusted (should require significant force to close all the way, but not Herculean effort).  Then partially close the QR to create some friction, adjust the wheel looking at the space around the tire, and then close the QR completely.  Once you get used to it, centering the wheel this way takes only another 5-10 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T11:41:23.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-02T11:43:45.080" Score="6" ViewCount="3093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a back rack online. How can I be sure that it will fit my bike without testing it first? Is there any standard for racks that I can ask the seller about? What are the chances that I won't be able to mount it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="705" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-02T18:13:32.913" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T18:13:32.913" Title="Rack compatibility" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5173" CreationDate="2011-08-02T11:44:11.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Better a hair too loose than a hair too tight..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T02:52:10.090" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T02:52:10.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5193" CreationDate="2011-08-02T12:31:48.953" Score="12" ViewCount="17062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2010 Trek District with a belt drive. I'm fairly happy with the setup, since after months of standing outside I just picked up the bike again and started riding without the usual chain maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the problem I currently have is that under large torque, so e.g. accelerating out of traffic lights makes the belt either slip or jump off the rear cog. Riding in traffic with cars close-by makes this a somewhat dangerous mishap, so I'm hoping I could fix this. Even when pedaling with high cadence the belt seems to be moving outwards all the time, and can be fixed by pedaling backwards one round or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instruction manual and &lt;strike&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://trekdistrict.com/2008/10/belt-tensioning/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;googled resources&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt; [broken link - try this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekdistrict.com/index.php?topic=537.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trekdistrict discussion&lt;/a&gt; or this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike-manual.com/brands/trek/om/hybrid/belt_ov.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bike-manual link&lt;/a&gt;) claim that setting the correct tension and alignment to be easy, but I've found it to be quite a hard task. So, could someone with more bike mechanics skills and experience tell me how to do this or point me to a good resource? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to set the tension, without having a special tool for measuring the tension? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How accurate does the tension have to be in order not to slip under pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I (easily) align the belt correctly for it not to travel right on the rear cog?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any answers! I could probably take it to the local shop, but I've been trying to handle all and any maintenance myself, since this is a hobby after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;==== Edit ====&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a picture of my own, but the rear dropouts look like the ones on this picture:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YA2ZQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trek District Dropout&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to adjust the tension and managed to get rid of the slippage, so the original problem is more or less solved. I've also tried and managed to tighten the belt too much, since it started to have a funny noise and the freewheel didn't seem to work correctly anymore. Now the tension seems about correct, but the belt still &quot;travels right&quot; (as in the image) and jumps off the cog, when accelerating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to think that the rear hub is not perfectly straight with regards to the belt, but I would think one would notice this when riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=== Edit 2 (2011-08-10) ===&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After nearly getting hit by a bus, caused by the belt jumping off the rear cog, I decided to bite the bullet and take the bike back to the shop. Turns out I have strong fingers, since the problem was too much tension on the belt. The high tension made the rear wheel not fit perfectly in the rear dropouts. This made the wheel just the slightest bit misaligned (what's the opposite of straight?), which in combination with the tension made the belt to travel outwards when applying enough torque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the thing fixed, and it now works as a charm. I'm unable to tell the difference between the earlier too tight belt from the correctly tensioned one, since the difference is very subtle. Thus, the moral of the story has to be that one should use the correct tools for the task at hand. And also that my mechanics skills are not quite as good as I was hoping :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, thanks for all the suggestions here, but from now on I suggest all the belt-drive people like me either get the real tools, or support the local bike dealer for the no or low maintenance of the belt drive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1950" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T13:06:56.307" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T13:06:56.307" Title="How to measure the correct belt drive tension?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;belt-drive&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5185" CreationDate="2011-08-02T12:32:09.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A standard rack will fit a standard (full-sized, non-suspension, diamond frame) bike with rack eyelets.  Beyond that you're on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T12:32:09.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2011-08-02T13:23:06.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In France, bike trailers are forbidden for transporting children on regular roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, many car drivers told me that bike trailers are almost invisible, even with flags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T13:23:06.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5176" CreationDate="2011-08-02T13:51:02.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to use a rag and de-greaser like Simple Green. Apply the solution to your rag, wet pads let the liquid do its thing and wipe clean/dry. If that does not work, repeat. If after doing that twice you are not getting the appropriate braking power, I would gently sand the face of the brake pad with a fine grit sandpaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T13:51:02.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5173" CreationDate="2011-08-02T13:59:34.643" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is, as Sheldon brown says, as tight as possible without binding. &#xA;But define binding. The noises you described on your chain in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/5169/1259&quot;&gt;your previous question&lt;/a&gt; were symptomatic of binding or of a worn chain. The description you've given there of how you run your chain tension is tighter than I would recommend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To clarify the tensioning - When I replaced the chain I adjusted the tension. There was a very noticeable adjustment required. But then when I subsequently adjusted the rear cog I didn't adjust the tug from it's setting with the new chain. I agree that I might have changed the tension marginally just be removing and refitting the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 millimeter of movement is too tight, in every case I've seen. The manufacturing tolerances on the components (cog, chain, and chain ring, ans well as the hub, and BB axle), would need absolute perfection to allow that tight of tension to function without damage or noise. I've never seen good enough all at once, and you would need to be amazingly lucky or diligent to find that mix of perfection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical tension on a fixie or single speed is roughly 1/4&quot; to 1/2&quot;, or 5-10 millimeters, when pressing on the chain from the top, and from one side. A single speed requires slightly less tension, because the bearings in the freewheel will bind, and it won't roll at all, where a fixie will just be noisy and prone to wear. Make sure you check for the spot where the chain is tightest, and do the adjustment there, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to be that tight, and your drive train will still maintain good contact between pedal and wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T13:59:34.643" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5185" CreationDate="2011-08-02T14:36:15.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have braze-ons for a rack on your frame, you should be abl to get a rack fairly easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racks are made with the basic characteristics of the bike in mind. You need to pay attention to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheel size&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack are often specific to either a 26 inch wheel, 700c wheel, or other. Determine which your bike has and purchase accordingly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire Clearance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The width of the tire matters as well. Some racks will not fit  wider tire. This can really only be determined with the rack in hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Type of brakes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rim brakes come in 4 styles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have road style 2 pivot brakes, then you are OK for most racks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have touring or cyclo-cross style cantilevers, they may interfere, and this can really only be determined with the rack in hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have mountain style V-brakes, they may interfere, and this can really only be determined with the rack in hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The other option is Disc brakes, and there are racks made with this in mind specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Load capacity of the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The manufacturer will list a rider maximum weight for your bike. Your bike, rider, rack, and load should be under this weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some bike, usually designed for touring or commuting, will list addition load capacity above the rider weight. Add this to the rider weight, and apply the same rules. The weight must also be distributed evenly on the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best option, if you are unsure, is to ask your LBS. They will want to see the bike, but will usually have a functional rack in stock, and install it for you. The costs are usually not excessive, and the saved hassle is worth it, unless you just prefer DIY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T14:36:15.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5187" CreationDate="2011-08-02T14:42:27.523" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As to measuring belt tension, the tool is your best option. If you own the bike, then you should own the tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without it, however, place an S-bent spoke or similar wire in a hook over the center of the top of the belt. Add weight to the bottom hook. 10 pounds is the spec. Yes, this is a lot of weight for a bent spoke. Be creative. Or buy the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place a ruler next to the belt, at the point of the weight's pull. Write down the measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the weight. Measure again, in the same place. Subtract the first measurement from the second measurement. The difference should be between 5 and 12 millimeters. 10 millimeters is ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alignment is dependent on the type of dropout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 1: The image below is a new tool from Gates, called the Eco Tension Tester, which does exactly as described above, in a more professional manner. Perhaps it will help describe the intent of the method I described.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtYZj.png&quot; alt=&quot;NEW Gates Eco Tension Tester&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the dropout style you posted in your image, the alignment is actually set with two things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheel centering - the wheel needs to be equally centered between the chainstays. This is a do it by eye and feel job, although you can gauge your success by measuring from the rim's brake surface to the inside surface of your chainstay, assuming your wheel is properly dished over your hub.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second thing which affects the belt alignment on the pulley is your &quot;chain&quot; line. With the District, this alignment is set with the length of the bottom bracket spindle. The more perfect the chainline, the less likely you will have issues with the belt rolling off the cogs. Most bike shops have a tool like the Park Tool CLG-2 for measuring chainline accurately, although it is designed to work with a toothed cog.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z8wHe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park CLG2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have consistent issues with the belt rolling off the cog, and your dropouts are evenly set up in the frame, and your wheel is centered, find an LBS to check your chainline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to swap the bottom bracket axle to get more perfect chainline, in order to solve this issue. Assuming the bike has not had the BB replaced by you, it may be wise to ask the shop where it was purchased whether it is the original BB, and whether they will help with any chain line issues under warranty status.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2: It actually appears that belt &quot;alignment&quot; issues are directly related to belt tension with the Gates Carbon Drive belts. If the tension is correct, they track well. If it is too low, they will track toward the frame. Too high tracks away from the frame.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-05T07:14:31.410" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T07:14:31.410" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5176" CreationDate="2011-08-02T14:49:03.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;V-brake pads are rubber. Degreaser &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; (but not always does) damage rubber. use isopropyl alcohol. It will remove the grease without damaging the rubber pads. It may take multiple applications. Clean the rims with it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting from Daniel's answer, with edits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First undo the noodle so you can access the face of the pads, then wipe pads and rims thoroughly. Scrub pads and rims with a isopropyl alcohol on a rag. It will evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat as required. If more is required, sand the face of the brake pad with a fine grit sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reattach noodle. (Everybody always forgets that part.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T14:49:03.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5203" CreationDate="2011-08-02T16:22:39.670" Score="14" ViewCount="1363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've visited a lot of bike shops in my time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been great ones, and scary ones. One thing I've noticed is that they all seem to have the best intentions. I've never had one deliberately rip me off, or damage my bike because they didn't care. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had shops be flat out wrong about things they still swear are true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question is, if you're new to the area, when you go to a shop for the first time, how do you decide if they are a good shop and you can trust them with your bike and safety and your wallet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-20T01:53:35.457" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T23:53:18.860" Title="How do you know if you can trust your LBS?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;best-practice&gt;&lt;lbs&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5195" CreationDate="2011-08-02T16:44:34.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without a recommendation (from a friend, etc) you have no way to tell until you buy/fix something in that LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise it will only be dependent to the way they greet you and maybe the kind of equipment they have, but that's so subjective...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've entered in some LBS to ask for bike parts and had so many different greetings, giving me (in some cases) a really bad impression and I won't definitely trust that LBS, one once even almost told me to get out of the shop, just because I was asking for an axle nut! (he was in a bad mood, but that's no way to treat a potential customer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had shops that wanted to keep my bike parts after replacing them with newer parts, and that's (IMO) another sign of &quot;don't trust&quot; them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I've used LBS that give parts for free and give that extra care to the fix, and you notice that, those are the ones to keep :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day it depends on the experience you already had, (you may have been recommended by someone else, but with you they could be straight arses...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T16:44:34.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2709" CreationDate="2011-08-02T16:51:56.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A potential cause is the alignment of your brake pads.  Pads needs to be adjusted and aligned so that the front-edge of the pad hits the rim slightly before the rear-edge of the pad hits--this is called the &quot;toe-in&quot;.  Improper toe-in results in your brakes very rapidly grabbing and slipping from the rim; this happens fast enough you only hear the effect--and it sounds terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick I was shown for adjusting toe-in is to loosen the brake shoe; insert something ~0.5-1.0mm thick under the rear-edge of the brake while holding the brakes down, then re-tightening.  A second set of hands can be great for this--but you can also just put a rubber band around the pad and tie a knot in it to keep it in place.  Your goal is to have the back of the pad slightly further from the rim from the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T16:51:56.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5195" CreationDate="2011-08-02T17:03:01.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before even going to the shop you can do some research.  The Better Business Bureau (in the US), online reviews through sites such as Google Maps, and even just googling for &quot;Shop Name, City&quot; can lead you to other customer's opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you set foot in their shop, then it's good to begin building a relationship.  Call the salesperson by their name and try to introduce yourself; ask some questions, or try a few simple transactions such as buying expendibles (tubes, brake pads, food stuff)--and go with your gut.  If you have a question, even if you know the answer, ask their opinion.  The whole point is to just slowly build up your opinion, while also improving the relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the whole time you're trying to make up your mind, try and remember to use their names.  That little trick alone can accelerate you into their &quot;regulars&quot; crowd and get you better service and maybe a deal here or there.  Many shops superficially seem great, but a shop that you have a relationship with will almost always treat you better (true for nearly any kind of business).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T17:03:01.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5195" CreationDate="2011-08-02T17:09:16.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to take a look at this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3470/how-to-choose-a-local-bike-shop&quot;&gt;How to choose a local bike shop&lt;/a&gt;.  There's a lot of great information there.  I recommend to check a few things. Check pricing on items to ensure they have competitive pricing.  A store that charges a lot for items will probably do it to make up for less sales.  Also, ensure the store isn't empty.  If it's a good bike shop it will get a lot of business.  Talk to other cyclists in the area and find out which shop they go to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T17:09:16.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2709" CreationDate="2011-08-02T17:15:45.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reasonably confident that this is just another variation of brake chatter.  The pads are generally &quot;toed in&quot; so that the front of the pad contacts the rim first, but as they wear that &quot;toe-in&quot; effect is lost, and you get chatter (which can be anything from a high-pitched squeal to a rasping sound).  The chatter is caused by the &quot;heel&quot; of the pad grabbing, rocking the brake arm forward, then releasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do of course check the rims for any sign of gouging, and check the pads for any dirt, etc.  (And of course check that the pads are not worn out.)  But probably you will find nothing beyond ordinary wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ignore the sound, or adjust your brake pads to restore a degree of toe-in.  Try to avoid too much, though, as it increases (uneven) pad wear and reduces brake effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T17:15:45.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5185" CreationDate="2011-08-02T17:19:03.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two standard ways that a rear rack fits onto the bike: 3 point fixing and 4 point fixing. Most but not all racks on the marketplace come with a small bag of parts for the fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important question is if your bike actually has eyelets. These small holes on the rear dropouts are crucial if you want to fit full mudguards or a rack. If you do not have these then it is not the end of the world, you will just have to have a more expensive solution. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tubus.com/en/spares-and-accessories&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;One of the rack manufacturers does a kit&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQidM.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will set you back a minor fortune and you will not be able to get it in your typical LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More commonly available at the LBS is the rack that bolts onto your seatpost. I have not tried one of these myself however I do know that they get knocked rather easily and can sway from side to side. Plus I think you can only carry ten kilograms or so with one. The market leader for such racks in the UK is Topeak. Here there is a lot to get right, they do gazillions of different models to suit different frame sizes and bike types. No disrespect to the product, but avoid if you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/25HK0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, that is the 'no eyelet' scenario out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are lucky then you will have two eyelets either side on the rear dropout and eyelets on the seat stays above the bridge/brakes and on either side. These are so that you can mount mudguards and a rear rack. If you are lucky enough to have the full eyelet collection then you can get a 4-point fixing rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have the single eyelets on the dropouts and no extra eyelets on the seat stays then that is not too bad, you can still go for 4-point rack but you will need to make sure that the rack comes with 'P' clips. The 'P' clips go round the seat stays and provide the equivalent of the eyelets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, and for cleaner lines, you can go for 3-point fixing. This is where the rack connects to the two eyelets at the bottom and to the mudguard bridge in between the seat stays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned the rack, whether 3 or 4 point should come with a fitting kit. This will include everything needed to get it onto the frame. Care must be taken when fitting the rack to use the correct bolts and to not have an extra long one on the right-hand dropout as this can interfere with the freehub cassette and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a steel frame you are well advised to grease the bolts before putting them in, use of washers will not hurt either. Rack bolts are very prone to coming undone due to vibration and once the rack has bedded in you will need to check the bolts are as tight as you intended them to be. 'Loctite' on the screws can be applied if there is not any on them already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racks can come in 700c and 26&quot; sizes. Most are universal and designed to fit either wheel size. If you have no mudguards then you may want to consider a rack with a built in mudguard. Here is one example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3yuoM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the once popular Blackburn MTN-1. Note that it has six holes drilled at the front, these are for the fitting kit and it comes with bits and bobs including P-clips to suit 3 as well as 4 point fixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is poor about the Blackburn MTN-1 is that the loops at the bottom to hold on the pannier may not suit your panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another design feature missing from the MTN-1 is a bracket at the back for a light or reflector. This model by Topeak has one of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BoV6k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the light to go on there will be quite pricey and hard to find in a LBS, it will be a neat solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That particular Topeak rack also shows yet another design consideration: the problem of the disk brake. If you have rear disk brake then you will need a rack specifically designed for that. It sticks out more and is less elegant than a regular rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of note with that Topeak rack is the top and how it appears to have extra edges to the middle bit. This is to suit Topeak's range of top-bags. They slot into the groove and click in place making them very secure and not wobbly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I advise checking out the Topeak rack and bag combinations for yourself in a LBS. Although they have lots of fancy compartments and are very well made, sometimes a 'really heavy handbag' is next to no use if you want to carry a notebook computer, or some shopping or a tent or a sleeping bag or a stove. Fine if you want to commute in with a change of clothes and have compartments for other nik-naks you need for work, but still rather heavy and expensive. Plus you are locking in to their system and it is not universal with other bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I don't bother with panniers and racks anymore. Panniers can wobble about and leave heel clearance to be a problem. Nowadays I use a 1950's style and unashamedly retro saddle bag. I ride in the seat and prefer to have the extra weight next to my own centre of gravity. (Panniers give light handling on the front wheel that I don't like.) As a consequence I am the proud owner of a Carradice 'Long Flap' bag and SQR bracket. This is very easy to take on and off plus it has pockets either side for tools in one and luxury ready eats in the other that can be easily accessed. I can get a notebook computer in, full touring kit, a weeks worth of clothes for the office, several shopping bags worth of groceries and a small Tardis, admittedly not at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fo2OY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the above benefits, no eyelets get used to mount it and girls do comment on what a nice bag it is as it is a bit hand-bag looking. The 'cotton-duck' material is also brilliant as it swells in the wet to become properly waterproof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T17:19:03.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5187" CreationDate="2011-08-02T18:18:43.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A general rule for flat belts is to twist the belt midway between the front and rear belt drives, it should twist to 90 degrees with moderate two finger effort, if it goes past 90, then it is too loose, if you cannot make 90 without great effort, then it is too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method depends on how strong your fingers are and the width and thickness of the belt, the more you use this method the better you get at judging what is correct for any given belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method is to make small tension adjustments until the slippage stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastEditorUserId="1717" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T16:13:31.173" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T16:13:31.173" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5195" CreationDate="2011-08-02T18:43:50.117" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What brands do they stock?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as relationships with customers shops have to have relationships with suppliers. You will find that dealerships are not dished out so easily and only the best bike shops can have the best brands. This is for bikes and for components. A brand to look for is Specialized, does the shop have Specialized components? Customers will ask for Specialized by name and dealerships for components and bikes are limited, if they have Specialized then they have been established long enough to get the dealership. That is the situation in the UK but I do not know about everywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Appearances can be deceptive&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't read too much into how cluttered or dusty the shop is. Few in the trade come from a merchandising background or have the time for ornate window displays. Tidy organised appearance is definitely a bonus but not the be-all and end-all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How long do you have to wait?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have all waited a lot longer in a bike shop to be served than seems sensible. Staff that care will be able to take a break from a complex touring bike sale to take money off you for that inner tube you just want to buy. Alternatively they will be able to point you in the direction of the products that you are interested in and make a promise to be with you soon. Because bike sales are so seasonal there will be busy periods when there are more customers than staff however a good shop will be able to mitigate walk-outs with simple P's and Q's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shops do not have the best interests of your wallet at heart&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not be for the reasons you think. To you spending £100 on a bike might be big bucks but for the staff with a sea of bicycles in front of them £1000 may be nearer the mark for getting something to ride. When it comes to lights the set of £20 flashing LED's may be all you need but to the shop staff only the £150 brighter-than-the-sun light set makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is for you to judge whether the shop is taking you for a ride or if the staff are on a bonus deal that means they get more money for fleecing you. There is no harm in being straight up and asking if they are working on commission if they are pointing you at the high-end products when you have walked in specifically after something more basic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equally, sales staff that lack confidence may not point you towards the better products. You may not care whether you spend £50 or £250 on a pair of shoes for that triathlon you hope to enter, what you don't want is for the shop to under-sell to you for you to end up with sub-standard products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't expect the staff to be experts about everything&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have pored over the catalogue all week and know the specifications inside and out, the shop staff may not have the time or the need to do that. You know information from over-browsing the catalogue, they have knowledge that means they only need the product knowledge necessary for what they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some staff may be showroom only and be expert at sizing up kids bikes yet have no idea what chain you need for a nine speed or what pads you need for a vintage bike. They can even get a basic inner tube valve length wrong. Therefore make sure you know what you want in advance, don't rely on expert opinion in the shop and don't feel wronged if you know more than them about some particular thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Old parts off a repaired bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expect the shop to keep or bin parts that you have upgraded. If you have put your bike in for an inner tube repair do not expect the old tube back so that you can fix it. The same goes for a very expensive chainset. If you specifically want bits back then make sure you say so when the bike is booked in. It is standard practice in the UK for whatever happens to the old bits to be the bike-shop's prerogative, don't feel wronged if you do not get them back. Take a car analogy, if you took your car in for any work, would you expect the old bits back? &lt;em&gt;No.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Workshop bookings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bike shops have a really bad system for workshop jobs. Spend some time on the phone and call your local shops to see what they can do for you. Do expect your bike to be wheeled in and out of the workshop into the rain to be potentially scratched and possibly damaged during that time it is in the workshop. Ask how your bike will be stored whilst it is booked in - nobody thinks to do that yet it is a big deal. You don't want your bike rustier and scratched more than before you booked it in for that simple service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also ask how long it is going to take. Then apply common sense if it is going to take a fortnight to 'change a tube'. This is not a question of trust, it is a question of workshop management. Some shops have a strict queue and it can get a bit long. Other shops will turn around what they can as soon as they can, ideally you want simple fixes, e.g. that cassette removed to be a while-you-wait task and not something you have to wait a fortnight for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How well are the showroom bikes setup?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a tendency for bikes in showrooms to be somewhat loosely assembled. This is stupid as none of the bikes are at their best and it takes far longer to lazily assemble bikes to then have to completely check them over again. If the bikes are badly assembled in the showroom then they are not doing it right. Unless the prices are good go elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One key indicator is the seat. Are the showroom bikes with the seats pointing at odd angles? This shows a lack of care and a lack of skill in the workshop. Coupled to that is a lack of understanding of what the customer wants - a comfy bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bikes, e.g. Brompton and to a certain extent Dahon, are fully assembled to top 'pre-delivery-check' standards in the factory. They don't need any further setting up. Showroom bikes should be to the same standard, every gear should work, every brake should work and every wheel should be properly in place. Handlebars may be twisted 90 degrees for space reasons and tyres may be soft due to inventory management reasons, however, all of the bikes in the shop should be in a ridable condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the shop part of a chain?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An owner-manager is more motivated than the hired-manager. He has to pay the bills every week and ensure the sales are taken care of properly. He will not stand for staff standing behind the counter and not assisting customers pro-actively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand a hired manager of a chain will have career aspirations to make it into group management and a sales bonus to think of. A chain will also have a central warehouse and other bike sizes in other shops. Therefore the reputation of the chain is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get excellent staff in chains and single owner-manager shops. You can also get very bad staff. It is the luck of the draw whom you get to serve you. If you find that the salesperson is struggling, perhaps they don't actually go downhill mountain biking and know what you are after, in that case give them a break and ask if there is anyone in the staff team that knows a bit more about down-hill mountain bikes. This should not be taken the wrong way by them. Chances are that when you walked through the door their MTB supremo was dealing with another customer and he/she will be glad to spend time with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do they offer to special order for you?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all sizes are stocked, not all parts are stocked. A good shop will offer to get whatever you need in, usually with less than a week turnaround. 'Sorry we don't stock that' is not a good enough answer, fobbing you off with the wrong product is not a good answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you test-ride a bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes do get damaged with a ride around the block. However, for fast moving regular bikes there should be no problem with you going out on it to test ride. Expect to leave your keys and or wallet behind the till. Maybe expect an escort if you are comparing two bikes. Don't expect a test ride on the best bike in the shop though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you borrow a spanner?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shops should be able to lend you an Allen key to fit that water bottle that you just bought. If they cannot trust you with that then can you trust them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is in their car park at 9 a.m.?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all bike shop staff live and breathe bicycles. Chances are that the guy in the workshop is only working there to pay for his car. Ask staff if they actually ride. Although some say this does not matter, it does. Would you get a vegetarian working in a butchers to care about your sausages? Or a meat eater working in a organic-save-the-world-shop to have much of an opinion on lentils? Or an illiterate working in a book shop to help you find a good book about bikes? Or someone that hates music working in a record shop help you through the new releases?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everyone in the bike shop drives to work then something is up. They too have heard the news about global warming, how cars give kids asthma, how the oil is running out, how dangerous cars are to cyclists, how wars get fought over oil and so on. Clearly they don't have the passion for the product to ride themselves. You have to ask why the bicycle is not good enough for them. They can live a long way away, be the older generation when motoring was aspirational or be one of those sad youngsters working just to pay for a car. Don't discredit them entirely for driving but bear it in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is in their car park after 9 a.m.?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the shop has lots of customers and they all cannot be wrong to be shopping there. In some paces like the UK the success of a bike shop is pretty much down to if they have parking or not. Therefore the out of town shop with more parking, more warehouse space and a bigger showroom is a better bet but not always. Do ride out to the out of town shops and you will hopefully be pleasantly surprised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is their website like?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be hard for a shop to compete with the online specialists. However, does their shop clearly give the basic information. Opening hours? Brands stocked? A few words about the workshop? What their specialisms are? Do they give a first impression that is hopeful? They may not be experts at HTML - overlook that but not too much. The internet has been around for a decade or more, they should have some semblance of a webpage by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One area of trust is whether they do have a product focused website and if the prices match what you pay in the showroom. Go in with printouts and haggle if you get given a different price in the shop. Expect your trust to be diminished if there is no good reason for any discrepancies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is as long as a piece of string. Opinions vary. Presented above is a far from exhaustive list of things to look out for. At the end of the day a lot comes down to personalities and whether you like the staff. That said there are things that may not come across in the time you spend with them and there may be good reasons for misunderstandings. Whatever, do support your local bike shop and be open to their service and expertise, not everything can be done online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T18:43:50.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5210" CreationDate="2011-08-02T21:23:55.773" Score="10" ViewCount="23161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'v been using citrus degreaser to clean my bikes for years. I usually get a gallon jug of it from the auto parts store, and it lasts a long time. I use it for cleaning the drivtrain, either using a chain cleaner or by soaking the chain overnight. I've used it with a rag to clean the rims. I'll sometimes even use it to scrub a nasty bit of dirt or grease off the frame. However, some of the discussion in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5176/removing-lubricant-from-the-rear-brake-and-rim&quot;&gt;this very good question&lt;/a&gt; has got me wondering: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there parts of your bike that can be damaged by degreaser? Obviously, keep it away from the bar tape or a leather saddle, but what mechanical parts could be harmed by citrus degreaser? Also, are there types of degreaser out there that are gentler and could be more appropriate? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T19:53:07.947" Title="What parts of a bike could potentially be harmed by degreaser?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-02T21:34:26.827" Score="17" ViewCount="11741" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to learn about bicycles.  I have heard the term &quot;road&quot; bike a lot.  What is the difference between a &quot;road&quot; bike and a regular bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1964" LastEditorUserId="477" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T19:28:56.423" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T14:38:21.610" Title="What is a &quot;road&quot; bike? Don't they all ride on a road?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5207" CreationDate="2011-08-02T21:43:26.007" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, all bikes could ride on roads. However, a road bike is one that's &lt;em&gt;optimized&lt;/em&gt; for riding on smooth pavement. It usually has skinny tires (no wider than 32mm, often much narrower) with a very light tread. (If they have any tread at all. Some road tires, such as the Kojac, are treadless or &quot;bald&quot;, to cut down on rolling resistance.) Road bikes usually have handlebars that are designed to be comfortable for long stretches of time, sacrificing a little bit of fine control that you'd get with a wider flat bar or riser bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By way of contrast, mountain bikes come with wider tires that have more agressive tread (&quot;knobby&quot; tires) designed to grip gravel or dirt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bikes can sometimes ride on packed dirt or gravel, but the ride will be very harsh. A bike optimized for off-road will be easier to control and can ride on surfaces that'd be problematic on a road bike, such as rocks, gravel, loose dirt, or pockets of sand. There are even bikes that will accept extra-wide tires (3 - 4&quot;). People who ride on very bad roads that have had potholes and cracks installed copiously may prefer a mountain bike to a road bike, or may decide to get a hybrid bike, which is exactly what it sounds like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, road bikes can sometimes do a little bit of off-roading, and mountain bikes can ride on the pavement, but these kind of bikes have different strengths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T21:49:59.793" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T21:49:59.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5249" CreationDate="2011-08-02T22:17:32.237" Score="13" ViewCount="4387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a runner and have been getting into biking just to add some additional flavor to my workout schedule and racing.  I am wondering what I should look for when purchasing a new road bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the bike manufacturer the largest determiner?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are the components what I should worry about?  If so should I only buy SRAM or is Shimano just as good? Are there other brands to consider? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything about the wheels that could set one road bike apart from another? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Other than a carbon frame is there anything else I should look for in the frame? (Yes, I understand that it should fit my body.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What else should I consider when looking at buying a race worthy road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Budget:  I plan on spending about US$3k or less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit-  Just as additional information I bought a Specialized Tri-Cross that I use for commuting, rougher roads, pulling kids and joy rides.  I am looking at doing some 50/100 milers and a 550 mile relay so although unexperienced I want a good racing bike.  Also due to the spouse factor it is easier to buy one $2500 dollar bike then get a starter and upgrade latter especially since I already have an all around bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1962" LastEditorUserId="1962" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T19:17:08.073" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T00:30:35.623" Title="Looking for a first race worthy road bike - What should I look for? " Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5206" CreationDate="2011-08-02T22:34:12.860" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Degreaser acts like a solvent (although I'm unsure if it is technically a solvent, or more of an emulsifier).  With all solvents you'll have to be careful with what they contact--however degreaser is relatively safe compared to stronger solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each type of solvent has its own list of things it will dissolve--and even brand-to-brand can make a difference, so spot-testing is always recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general though, the risky things are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rubbers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adhesives&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Organics (leather, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Porous materials&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paints&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(obviously) Grease/lubricants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your main concerns should be your tires, your paint, and (as you mentioned) components like grip-tape and seats.  Getting degreaser on these has the potential to stain--so extra precautions may be in order.  Typically your best option is to try and prevent it from contacting them, and cleaning it off quickly with mild soap &amp;amp; water if you do make a mess (although soap and water itself will stain things such as leather if you're not careful).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A secondary concern is that you fully remove the solvent after it's done.  Leaving excess solvent/degreaser behind is a very bad idea--see Rubbing Alcohol below for tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for other solvents/degreasers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rubbing Alcohol is fairly safe.  It has the risk of drying-out leather and rubber, but is very useful for cleaning parts--and especially useful for rinsing degreaser off of things such as chains (it also evaporates and leaves them dry--ideal for re-lubricating).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Naptha (a.k.a. liquid lighter fluid, not butane) can be very effective as well and is generally safe&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Acetone is a stronger solvent, and likely to be &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; safe.  It should be used with extreme care, but is a very powerful solvent and can get the job done well and quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T22:34:12.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5206" CreationDate="2011-08-02T22:34:45.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used so many types of degreaser and one thing to have in mind is not &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; it can damage but &lt;strong&gt;how&lt;/strong&gt; it can damage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used a mix of gasoline+diesel and it cleans beautifully the frame and rim and spokes, but mind you that it needs to be cleaned afterwards (water and a rug) and maybe add a little grease to protect it again, otherwise it can generate some rust!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that some product can be harmfull only if in some conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know how it can damage, you can protect the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solvents and degreasers based on petrol can damage rubber.&#xA;Even when using WD-40, it can destroy the axle rubber protection (if it exists in your bike), but what I've done is clean it very well and it doesn't ruin anything, it's a matter of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used petroleum to clean my aluminum frame and no harm there, and works wonders with sticker removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water and soap (or dish washing) can damage also if left for sometime, it can generate rust, so, as in other washes, always dry the best you can, and in some bike parts apply some grease (I've even done that with a seat post).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T22:34:45.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5209" CreationDate="2011-08-02T22:43:12.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very first thing you need to get absolutely correct is &lt;strong&gt;size&lt;/strong&gt;.  Since you're purchasing a new bike you should expect to spend at least an hour or two being fitted--essentially determining what size frame you need.  Once you know your size, don't expect it to be constant between manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond size, focus on your intended uses.  Since you're looking at a road-bike you might consider different features:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will it allow larger tires?  A strict road-bike typically has 23mm tires, which are fast and efficient.  However, some bikes can accept a larger tire and/or rim--bigger tires are slower, but more comfortable and better able to carry loads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will you want fenders or a rack?  Even if you just plan to occasionally have them installed, picking a bike with the requisite mounts will save you time and trouble later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How often do you plan on riding, and how far?  Higher end components typically work better longer (they require less frequent fine-tuning).  Don't be concerned too much with the specific manufacturer or component-level; your bike shop can help educate you on what is right for your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheels can always be upgraded, higher end bikes may come with nicer stock wheels, but it's quite common to use the stock wheels for training and higher end wheels for race-day.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T22:43:12.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2011-08-02T22:48:02.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A trick I often use to center my wheels is to simple install them with the bike upside-down, resting on its handlebars and saddle.  Gravity keeps them fully seated while I tighten the quick-release; otherwise both my hands are occupied and I often mis-align the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="1373" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T03:12:45.710" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T03:12:45.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5209" CreationDate="2011-08-02T22:54:23.737" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to buy a used bike on Craigslist or eBay first. Many people will vehemently disagree on the best manufacturer, component group, frame material, etc., but the best advice I can give is to buy a cheaper bike that you can use until you decide upon what you &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; want. This is doubly important because the things you think are important to you in a bike right now will likely change within a month or two of actually riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, my advice is to ignore the manufacturer. Go with a Shimano 105-level or equivalent groupset. SRAM Rival/Apex or Campagnolo Veloce are similar. Campagnolo parts are harder to find (in the U.S. at least), so I'd lean slightly more towards SRAM or Shimano. Try both systems out, and decide which you prefer. Regardless, go with an entry-level groupset. There's little advantage to an expensive one for a novice rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignore the wheels. Whatever wheels come on the bike will be good enough to get you started and they can always be upgraded later. And don't get caught up on carbon versus aluminum versus steel. Whichever happens to be on the bike you like best that's in your price range will suit you fine. You're just starting out; buy expensive things only &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you've been on the bike awhile. Chasing performance with expensive parts is a fool's game. The engine matters much more than the bike does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, get fitted and make sure you're buying a bike that's well suited towards your body. A bike that doesn't fit will make you uncomfortable and hurt your performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't feel like you need to spend the full $3,000 right out of the gate. $1,500 now leaves $1,500 left over when you decide cycling isn't for you. Or $1,500 for upgrades when you decide you'd rather do nothing but ride and know exactly what you want. The difference between a $1,500 bike and a $3,000 one is probably less than you think. Again, the engine is what matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T22:54:23.737" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2011-08-02T23:43:10.587" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to remove the rear wheel. Lock only the rear wheel, but do so through the rear triangle. This will properly secure your frame and your rear wheel. You may want to buy a cable to go through the front wheel as well. As always, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; demonstrates the correct technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gBnEt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;proper locking technique&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T23:43:10.587" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2011-08-02T23:55:51.853" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a trend, that's all. Give it a few more years and all that will remain are a bunch of vandalised classic frames that we will look at sadly, wishing those lugged and brazed steel beauties had not been modified for some hipster's vanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's one actual reason which is lower maintenance - less complexity does mean less to adjust. Get your chain tension right, keep it lubricated, things should stay smooth for a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Against the fixie there are so many more - being in the right gear only 10% of the time is the big one. A fixie is for the track where the gradient is zero and the road is always smooth. (You go up the embankments of course but race tactics is a whole separate, big discussion.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;trackstands&quot; - many skilled cyclists and even a lot of plain old commuters can balance indefinitely on mountain bikes, cyclocross, road bikes or whatever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;direct connection&quot; - huh? There's no slack in my drivetrain, nor on any properly adjusted bike. There is the direct link that keeps your pedals rotating any time the wheels are rotating of course, which can be very dangerous if you lean into a corner and find your inside pedal lifting the back wheel off the ground as it comes around...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;lighter&quot; - modern frames and group sets are so light anyway. The UCI (governing body for the world road championships etc.) has set a minimum weight of 6.8kg because it is easily possible to make a lighter geared bike than this. There's a point beyond which it just doesn't matter any more, and both geared and fixies are there already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;efficiency/fitness&quot; - there are two sides to this. A fixie can help you learn to keep constant pressure on the pedals I guess. But gears are there for a reason. Lance Armstrong doesn't have the cadence of a hummingbird because it's more fun that way, it is more efficient. When you're travelling downhill fast and your legs are spinning to keep up with your pedals that's awesome, but it's the time you least need efficiency. You need it going uphill, but that's when you're standing up in the saddle pumping slowly. Which leads to a warning - fixies may be bad for your knees. If you ride in hills and you tough it out with a tall gear you will cause more wear to your knee and hip joints than if you were able to change down and keep your legs spinning. 20-somethings, you think you're invincible now but you may well regret that attitude once you turn 40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes don't enter into the debate because a fixie can have them or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your fixie shopping on weekends. For riding with an actual purpose, accept that technology has advanced a bit. As per Lance Armstrong's cadence, they don't ride bikes with gears in the Tour just because it's more fun or they like to tinker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="1914" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T00:01:55.497" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T00:01:55.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5232" CreationDate="2011-08-03T00:17:40.883" Score="5" ViewCount="11837" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an expensive and heavy hub but I'm looking to build a new wheel and strip the rear derailleur off my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1999&amp;amp;Brand=Trek&amp;amp;Model=Elite%20XC%209.8&amp;amp;Type=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;old Trek MTB&lt;/a&gt;. It already has a fixed Ritchey carbon fork and front disc and is a nice commuter, I just hate the grindy noise of a gritty derailleur so I want it gone to create a low maintenance wet weather bike. In the summer it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1997&amp;amp;Brand=LeMond&amp;amp;Model=Maillot%20Jaune&amp;amp;Type=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, unmodified. Both bikes get a complete strip, clean and lube when they need it but I want to cut down on the time spend doing that - the IGH-carrying Trek will go out on wet days and the road bike in the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've googled plenty on this. There just aren't many pages up though, and none I can find that gives the whole fitting process. Shimano's PDF installation instructions are pretty dense and don't point out the important bits that a real person would need to know. I've read enough about performance to know it isn't perfect (and I would probably prefer a Rohloff) but it's going to solve my muddy, gritty bike path problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying it from an Australian store is pretty much out of the question given that it will easily cost hundreds more - importers gotta eat I guess but not at my expense and not at such a ridiculous markup. Sheldon Brown's pages, among others, have me keen to buy all the parts and build the wheel myself. Ordering all the parts is the time gate and failing to order something that later has to be sourced will lead to a frustrating wait of more weeks and paying an extra large shipping cost while another order is placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I need to know is exactly what is required to fit the Alfine system to an existing bike. The hub is sold as one unit, the shifter another. The chain ring is sold separately too. Then there are one or two different small parts kits available which seem to be harder to get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What will I need to buy (part numbers if you know them)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What parts will be troublesome to fit?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those of you that have experience installing these: Have you used one of these hubs and did you go through the process of sourcing, fitting and adjusting this hub yourself? What did you improvise/overcome/improve during your fitting? When done did you feel you had done it perfectly? Compare the complexity of this task (Alfine system and adjustment) to a conventional derailleur...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: if what you are looking for is a grease-free solution for your belt-drive bike, these are not questions you should be asking. Alfie 11 hubs leak oil and make your belt just as greasy as a chain. I'm hearing from many people &quot;mine too&quot;. One store tells me the extra tension on the sprocket when using a belt with this hub makes leaks all but inevitable. Shimano have had mine twice for extended periods for service and can't fix it. I am massively disappointed in this product, wish I had bought the 8-speed that uses grease rather than oil bath internally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2018 edit: Spot Acme still running nicely, but now with drop bars, TRP Hylex brakes, new wheels. I've given up worrying about the Alfine 11 leaking oil on the belt, it's inevitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="1914" LastEditDate="2018-11-18T21:54:51.150" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T21:54:51.150" Title="Alfine 11-speed - what is needed to install it? What are common problems when installing?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5207" CreationDate="2011-08-03T02:16:42.693" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the difference between a &quot;road&quot; bike and a regular bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are at least three kinds of bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Road bike -- for racing on roads: lightweight, drop handlebars, narrow tires, no fenders or panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Off-road bike -- for unpaved trails: wide, knobby tires, suspension (front and rear), expected to get dirty/muddy&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hybrid/urban -- for commuting and leisure rides: like a road bike but maybe with wider tires, more equipment (e.g. panniers and fenders, and disc brakes), straight (not dropped) handle bars, for riding in traffic in all weathers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T02:16:42.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3470" CreationDate="2011-08-03T03:08:33.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option that sidesteps the question slightly is to learn how to do some of the more common maintenance items yourself. Most bike maintenance is actually quite simple when you have the proper tools. What I've found is that whenever I've needed service done, the cost of having a mechanic doing it is almost the same as purchasing everything I need to do it myself. Thereafter, it's much cheaper since I already have the necessary equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To segue back to your question, knowing how to do most of the basic maintenance on your bike makes it much easier to accurately evaluate the advice you receive from the mechanic at your LBS. Equally as important, if you can talk to the mechanic intelligently about components and repair, they're far less likely to even attempt to bullshit you in the first place. You'd be surprised at the difference in service between the complaints &quot;My gears won't shift&quot; and &quot;My rear derailleur won't index properly any more. I've adjusted the barrel shifters and the B-screw, but shifting still isn't reliable. Any ideas?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one quick example, I once took my bike in to my closest LBS to swap out some parts I didn't have the tools for. While the mechanic was performing the service, his assistant made a big deal out of checking my chain wear, then told me it was about time to replace it. Of course, the chain had less than 250 miles on it so I knew the claim was bunk on the face of it. And that was, not coincidentally, the last time I've been to that particular shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T03:08:33.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5209" CreationDate="2011-08-03T03:11:41.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there anything about the wheels that could set one road bike apart from another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone on a road bike once looked at my wheels and said, &quot;those wheels are solid, they aren't wheels that would break like mine would if they hit pot-hole.&quot; Indeed they haven't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wheels are for a commuting bike, with disc brakes, and a 700x32 tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So ask your LBS if the bike you buy can break? My bike was sold to me as 'a reliable commuter' and it has been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride mine every weekday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the people I work with has an expensive racer which he doesn't use to commute in to work, leave parked outside, etc. Occasionally he shows up with bits of his bike in various states of repair (just a wheel; just the frame; ...) to take to the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T03:11:41.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5173" CreationDate="2011-08-03T03:21:24.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A loose chain is a fast chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The proper technique for getting proper chain tension is to pull the wheel back in the dropouts and tighten the nuts a little past finger-tight. Don't worry about alignment just yet. Rotate the wheel and &quot;feel&quot; the slack in the top half of the chain with a screwdriver until it's at its tightest point. Here, it should still have some slack in it. How much? Perhaps an inch of total vertical movement is a good ballpark. Essentially, anywhere between &quot;falls off the chainring&quot; and &quot;binds even slightly&quot; are all equivalent, but this is &quot;enough&quot; slack while still being tight enough to minimize latency when reversing pedaling direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to tightening. If the chain is not ideally tightened, loosen the drive side nut. If the chain is too tight at this point, push the front of the wheel to the left, so the drive side of the axle slides forwards in the dropouts. If the chain is too loose, pull the front of the wheel to the right, so the axle slides backward in the dropouts. Retighten the nut a little past finger-tight. Now your wheel will likely be out of alignment. To remedy this, loosen the opposite nut and push or pull the front of the wheel until it's aligned. Retighten and recheck the chain tension. Repeat this process until the chain is to the desired tightness and the wheel is perfectly straight in the dropouts. Crank the nuts down tight and you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T03:21:24.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2011-08-03T03:28:37.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As another suggestion - replace your single speed rear hub with a Sturmey Archer 2-speed, Duomatic hub. This is operated by back-pedaling, so you get to keep the clean, simple look of a single-speed, but you get a lower gear for hills. I have one - it works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1975" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T03:28:37.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5209" CreationDate="2011-08-03T05:19:49.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, probably the first thing to ask yourself is whether this is a &amp;quot;utilitarian&amp;quot; purchase, or this is your &amp;quot;muscle car&amp;quot; -- intended as much for show as for use.  There's nothing wrong with either, if you have the money and are clear on your motives, but the difference will definitely affect your choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eg, for &amp;quot;utilitarian&amp;quot; purposes (ie, you actually intend to ride the bike frequently for long rides at high speeds) the Craig's List bike (if you can find a suitable one) is ideal, but for a &amp;quot;muscle car&amp;quot; you want a bike that is, if not new, at least spotless and &amp;quot;showy&amp;quot;.  For &amp;quot;utilitarian&amp;quot; you don't need carbon frame or fancy wheels, but for &amp;quot;muscle car&amp;quot; those are &amp;quot;show points&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Added&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your update it would appear that you're not (necessarily) interested in a &amp;quot;showy&amp;quot; bike but more the utilitarian one.  If you're going to be doing 100 mile rides you need some comfort and durability.  You probably &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want a bike that you must treat with kid gloves.  Fit, comfort, and durability should be your priorities.  (Any quality road bike will be light enough that the weight doesn't matter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T18:39:35.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5076" CreationDate="2011-08-03T05:55:35.103" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't like exposing myself to degreaser. I tend to soak in Simple Green solution and then promptly oil. Not perfect, good enuf if I happen to be replacing a link or what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists train themselves to avoid touching their chain and then glumly smirk when someone points out their calf tattoo. I have many pairs of shorts that look much older than they are because I've picked up my bike too casually. Keeping a chain clean is likely solving a problem with too much effort. Alternatives to regular deep cleaning your chain include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A chaincase. The reason most bicycles lack a chaincase is due to vanity and economics, and most civilian bicycle endeavors would benefit from your bicycle having a chaincase&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A bashgaurd. This plate goes over your large chainring and keeps your cuff out of the teeth&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A belt drive bike. Only some bikes can be retrofitted to a belt drive, but if you're in the market for a new bike, a belt drive is quieter, more resilient, easier on the knees, and mighty clean.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get around to cleaning my own chain(s) on weekends as I have time. If I see a shiny chain, I chuckle. I'm way too busy to polish my links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T05:55:35.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5119" CreationDate="2011-08-03T06:25:09.057" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've commuted in the pacific northwest for two winters, and have equiped my bicycles with snow tires, mudflap extensions, and sewn bright yellow waterproof blankets to cover up my Xtracycle deck. A lot of my inspiration has come from the Winter Riding forum on bikeforums.net. I cannot provide model information, but possibly these some areas to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;are you considering a recumbent orientation because of chronic back or neck problems? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A recumbent position might actually reduce core strength, or it might place stress on the wrong part of your back&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;storage and transfer at home and destination: do you want your trike stored curbside in all weather? Trikes are slow to fold, unwieldly to carry, probably more difficult to maneuver up stairways or elevators, and...like cargo bikes, not intended to be put on a bus...or maybe even trains&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;orient your budget towards all the gear you will want to outfit your trike with for wet weather commuting, plus ice plus snow. Studs are important for ice, studs don't help with snow, fenders don't help with snow, but you want them for anything wetter than slush&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;visibility: flags, extra blinkers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;commuting plus cargo? Consider aluminum &quot;Pelican&quot; cases for secure alternatives to panniers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;recumbent seats in wet weather often need to be covered with trash bags because the ones with foam pads become sponges &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;snow and trikes is much higher friction than snow and bikes. General wisdom for up to 7&quot; of powder is thinner tires (19-23mm) cuts thru powder with the least friction&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;clearance: if you have mobiliy issues, a higher trike will be easier to mount and dismount; if you do trails or want to clear snow mounds, clearance will help. This might dictate your tire size.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;maintenance and support: some trikes come with rear suspension (springs or shocks) and those, like on MTBs, wear out and can be degreased in the rain; many bike shops do not want to support recumbents because its a fringe market and their suppliers don't stock parts for Catrike, Rans or Sun, you might need to be your own mechanic&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;try before you buy: I own a  used Rans Tailwind and I commute on it, but it's a hassle to make normal bike parts, like pannier racks, fit on them. I didn't know how many options there were for recumbents and I ended up with an ill-suited commuter: it turns out I wanted a short wheel-base recumbent and possibly a non-foam seat plus a windshield so I wouldn't be so bothered by the rain. If you have a local 'bent dealer that can help you setup different models with a wet weather loadout, you'll likely find a quality model that suits you&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;attachment points: can you attach extra battery pack and lamps for an extended lighting system, computer/iphone/gps unit&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;electric boost opion: Lightfoot cycles is an example of a 'bent manufacturer that does recumbent e-assist bikes, there are others. If you have significant hills to climb and you're used to standing on your bike pedals, that's something a 'bent takes away from you&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck in your adventure finding your future commuter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T06:25:09.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2011-08-03T08:01:43.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course it is a little more dangerous since you are blocking some of your sense(s). But I think relying on hearing is a very bad idea, anyway. You might hear cars in time to react, but fast bikes are difficult to hear. It is a good idea to train yourself to look around every corner and turn your head to look behind you when changing direction or going into a narrow passage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think using only one earbud does in my experience make not much sense, since you'll need to turn it up much louder to understand e.g. a podcast, and it will impair your spatial hearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I refuse to give up the comfort every car driver has. Even with headphones turned to a sensible volume you'll hear much better than any car driver, so I don't care about the litte additional danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastEditorUserId="681" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T08:11:52.847" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T08:11:52.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2011-08-03T10:08:27.100" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned the lesson to this the hard way, by crashing into the back of a car. I was not paying attention to my riding due to the music coming from my Sony Walkman. The people in the car were okay, however, it was embarrassing to peel myself off their boot and then take my headphones off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That act of taking the headphones off was 'the game is up' for the situation, the lady who had by now got out of her car knew what a fool I had been and why I had not been paying attention. Even though it was a low speed crash I still buckled the top tube and down tube of the frame and my bike did not handle properly after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like how every driver thinks they are one of the better drivers and not like one of those 'idiots out there', so it is with cyclists. Some think they are that good at riding that they do not need to be fully devoted to the task in hand and can listen to some music.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing is that the music you listen to whenever you crash is forever damaged. You are listening to your favourite artist and the next thing you know, every time you hear that artist it reminds you of that crash and the stupidity involved in listening to music whilst cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Music on a bike lulls you into a false sense of security. It also lulls you into believing that you are riding better than you are. Just because there is a 'techno beat' (or whatever) to ride to doesn't mean you actually are performing well. Just because you are listening to 'chilled out' music does not mean you are riding less aggressively/assertively than you would do otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem with listening to music through earphones is the wind noise created by the earphones/headphones/whatever. You need to crank up the volume to 11 just to get half of it. It is established medical fact that music at this volume damages the little hairs in your ears that you need for hearing. What do you want to do that for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of us are smart enough to always avoid causing accidents when interacting with other road users and the minute this happens to you then you have to have a pretty good reason for losing control or not anticipating a situation. WEARING HEADPHONES IS NOT A GOOD ENOUGH REASON! DON'T DO IT!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that none of the other answers in this thread are written 'with the benefit of hindsight'. When it all goes wrong for you due to listening to some pointless music whilst riding your perspective on the subject will change in an instant and you will never go back to listening to music on headphones whilst you ride on the public roads. Life is short enough as it is, really. [Lecture over!]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T10:08:27.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5187" CreationDate="2011-08-03T11:07:43.943" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a belt doesn't stay on a pulley it's either because the pulley are misaligned or the belt is damaged.  You should check the wheel/axle alignment by checking the space between the tire and the seat and chain (er, belt) stays -- make sure the tire's centered between the stays.  If not that then likely the belt has become damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(When a belt is damaged, with the cords along one edge broken, it doesn't stay straight under tension but curls outward on the damaged side, and tends to creep off the pulley towards the damaged side.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T18:17:02.153" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T18:17:02.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1157" CreationDate="2011-08-03T13:03:47.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep the cap on to protect the valve from accidental damage, dirt, salt and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;oxygen&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a bit of rubber inside the Presta valve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kvvrz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave the valve cap off and oxygen in the air gets to the rubber causing it to perish. This problem will take time to develop, however it will do regardless of where you live, where you ride and how often you clean your bike. If that bit of rubber goes then you need a new tube or a new valve insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T13:03:47.363" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5217" CreationDate="2011-08-03T13:05:40.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the bike linked, I don't think this hub can be fitted properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It requires a method to adjust the chain tension, and this frame has neither the eccentric bottom bracket recommended, nor a horizontal dropout which could allow the adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible you could run it with V-brakes, and something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/singleator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Singleator&lt;/a&gt;. It just isn't something I'd trust under that kind of load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hub is intended for a disc brake, and that frame is not set up for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you could mount a coaster or drum brake, attaching it to a carbon fiber chain stay, which was not engineered with force from a coaster brake clamp in mind seems to be a possibly unhealthy option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the right rim, you could still use V-brakes, but how would you tension the chain? I've used various dropout based chain tensioners, and they function on a straight single speed hub, as long as you keep them adjusted, but throwing in the stress and multi-directional forces from shifting, and I don't think it would stay tensioned for very long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building the wheel is a worthwhile job, and the  install on a proper horizontal dropout frame is fairly simple with the 8 speed version, and this looks to be set up the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I wouldn't choose to run it on that frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T17:53:45.787" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T17:53:45.787" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5234" CreationDate="2011-08-03T13:35:03.380" Score="14" ViewCount="19053" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode my road bike on Friday and the tyres were at the correct pressure then, around 100psi.  On Tuesday, I jumped on without checking them and quickly realised something was wrong with the rear tyre.  It wasn't completely flat but was fairly soft.  I hadn't gone far so went home and took the car to work instead.  When I got home later, I was surprised to find the tyre, while still soft, hadn't lost all pressure by any means.  It was around 40psi and felt the same as when I left it in the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided there must be a slow leak somewhere, but I couldn't find one anywhere, putting the inner under water and going around it methodically looking for bubbles.  I've never failed to find a leak before that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've switched it out anyway because I don't want to mess around with my commute, but I'm curious ... is there another explanation for that amount of pressure loss?  Or must there have been a puncture somewhere that I missed somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tyres (whole bike) are pretty new and in excellent condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastEditorUserId="1985" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T18:04:56.340" LastActivityDate="2017-02-20T00:02:41.863" Title="Are there other explanations for slow tyre pressure loss?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5233" CreationDate="2011-08-03T13:43:31.947" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a faulty valve that only leaks under high pressure.  You won't be able to find this kind of thing by putting it under water because there's no way you'll get the tube up to 100 psi while it isn't on the rim with the tire on.  It could also be due to very very small holes in the tube, again which don't make any difference until the tire is at very high pressure.  You may be able to test this if you fill the tire up to full pressure and then leave it in the bath tub or other large sink.  you should be able to see if air is escaping from the valve this way. Not sure if you would be able to see air escaping from very small holes in the tube though as they might not be visible due to the tire/rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T13:43:31.947" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5217" CreationDate="2011-08-03T13:50:53.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just get the bundle that has all the parts you need to retrofit Alfine 11 Speed onto your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know product/shop recommendations are wrong, however here you go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/ZXHUSHALF11KIT/shimano-alfine-11-speed-hub-bundle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/ZXHUSHALF11KIT/shimano-alfine-11-speed-hub-bundle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems the key ingredient you are looking for is the 'Alfine fitting kit'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T13:50:53.407" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2011-08-03T15:11:18.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With 23s at 100psi you may need to inflate daily.  My 35s run at 100psi and I need to inflate every 3-4 days, and relative leakage rate increases as tire width decreases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use decent quality tubes, and beware of some brands.  Some &quot;racing&quot; tubes are very thin and leak very rapidly.  Ask the guy at your LBS which brands they get complaints about and stay away from them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't over-tighten the valve.  There is a rubber gasket in the valve that can be damaged by over-tightening.  Air pressure is sufficient to hold the valve closed, and the nut is there just to secure the valve on bumps, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T15:11:18.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5241" CreationDate="2011-08-03T15:52:46.973" Score="1" ViewCount="713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this new pump, but i think I made a mistake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need it for my road bikes, with presta valves. I don't understand how I connect the pump to the presta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it even possible?  do I need an adapter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps/PocketShockDXG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps/PocketShockDXG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1921" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T21:39:27.513" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T21:39:27.513" Title="New pump - Topeak |Pocket Shock" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;presta&gt;&lt;valves&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;&lt;topeak&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5238" CreationDate="2011-08-03T15:58:12.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That pump does not appear to be intended for use with tires. Return it and buy an appropriate pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T15:58:12.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5238" CreationDate="2011-08-03T16:18:05.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, it appears to be what it says (though not very clearly) -- a &quot;shock pump&quot;, intended for pumping up shocks in bike suspensions, not for pumping up tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, frankly, I've never seen a &quot;mini&quot; pump that could do even a halfway decent job of pumping up high pressure tires.  You need a full-sized frame pump to do it reasonably well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T16:18:05.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5238" CreationDate="2011-08-03T16:18:19.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is for adjusting the suspension on a medium to high-end mountain bike (fork), hence the lack of 'Presta' option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you will be returning it, to keep the shop happy and get what you really need, consider getting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A track pump with gauge and aluminium body. Look for one with a well&#xA;engineered head that does Presta and Shrader valves. The easiest&#xA;ones to use have a lever that you fold out to get a snug fit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the road, carry an affordable, light mini-pump with as few&#xA;movable parts as possible. The deluxe mini-pumps with dual-action,&#xA;fancy gauges and other features have a tendency to rattle apart,&#xA;rendering them useless when you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep it simple is what you want with a mini-pump, it only has to get you home and you hopefully will have a proper track pump with gauge at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T16:18:19.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5217" CreationDate="2011-08-03T18:06:57.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not set up the Alfine 11 specifically, but it's quite similar to it's less-geared cousin.  You might also consider the Alfine 8 - it's rather cheaper and is a well-regarded hub with only slightly less total gear range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, the main things you'll need will be the hub (the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/0/alfine/product.-code-SG-S700-L.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SG-700-L&lt;/a&gt; is for disc and rim brakes), a 26&quot;/559 rim of your choice, and spokes to match. In addition you'll need the Alfine 11 small parts kit, which includes the anti-rotation washers and other bits needed for installation. It's kind of annoying, really. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alfine hubs also don't include a cog, so you'll need to to select one. You can continue using your current crankset, using only one chainring.  The Alfine is rated for a ratio of 2:1, so a 16t cog would work well with your 32t middle chainring and give you a good range of 26&quot; to 107&quot;. (107&quot; is ~50kph at 100rpm cadence).  If you want to consider other gearing options, check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/internal.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown IGH gear calculator&lt;/a&gt;. One note for installation, the Alfine has a fairly narrow chainline, so you'll probably want to line up with the middle ring. You can remove the inner and outer chainrings; replacing the outer with a simple bash ring / chain guard can be a nice touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in other answers, you'll probably need a chain tensioner since your bike has vertical dropouts. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/comfort_bike/alfine/product.-code-CT-S500.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alfine Chain Tensioner&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/chain_tensioner/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rohloff Chain Tensioner&lt;/a&gt; are both rather good, basically just being derailleurs with stiff springs and no cable adjustment. If you feel like getting hacky, you might be able to succeed with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.63xc.com/toddp/halflink.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;magic gear&lt;/a&gt;, especially if you're willing to do a little filing. Running the chain through a tensioner adds a little bit more drag and a little bit more slop than being able to tension it directly, but otherwise should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, since you've got flat bars, you'll want the Alfine SL-S700 rapidfire shifter.  Since you don't have the integrated shifter-lever pods, it should be a simple swap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installation should be fairly straightforward, since it's mostly removing stuff: extra chainrings, current derailleurs and shifters, rear wheel.  You'll install the wheel using the &quot;vertical&quot; antirotation washers (8R/8L, green &amp;amp; blue), install the shifter and chain tensioner, run the chain and then cables and housing.  There's a bit of adjustment but the techdocs do make more sense when you have the hub in front of you - you're basically adjusting cable tension to line up the pair of yellow lines that mark the middle gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the retail side, I'd recommend looking at some of the big German resellers - I've dealt with Starbike and Hibike and somehow they seem to undercut Shimano pricing pretty reliably (something about buying directly from Shimano Europe without a distributor? I don't entirely understand it); I just ordered a dynamo hub and it was cheaper including euro-shipping than I could get domestically in the US even from the deep discount sites online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T19:54:35.607" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T19:54:35.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5250" CreationDate="2011-08-03T18:31:50.863" Score="9" ViewCount="5963" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday a coworker insisted electrical tape on his chainstay was necessary, as &quot;[he] gets so much chain slap [he's] literally snapped frames&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there's a couple dubious aspects to this--but my question is simply: can chain slap result in structural damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2018-01-31T22:56:28.847" Title="Can chain-slap cause damage to a chainstay that is beyond superficial?" Tags="&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5243" CreationDate="2011-08-03T18:45:11.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally if you're getting anything other than occasional chain slap against the stay there's something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually chain slap would wear away the paint on a steel frame and allow it to corrode through (if left out in the weather).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some very light/exotic frames could in theory have such thin tubing that you could wear through, but only after a considerable period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've never seen any damage (beyond scratches) due to chain slap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be dubious too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T18:45:11.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5243" CreationDate="2011-08-03T18:46:41.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only situation in which I could see that being the case would be with a carbon MTB frame, a rider who is using it far beyond it's intent, and a poorly set up drivetrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that situation, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; get enough force from chain slap to ding the frame, and if repeated often enough, those dings &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; turn into a crack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seriously doubt it, but it could happen, in theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of an aluminum or steel frame, No way, no how, not gonna happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I hadn't thought of eventual corrosion, in the case of steel. I suppose that is also possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still not going to &quot;literally snap frames&quot; from chain slap. Nor would electrical tape prevent it, if it was going to happen, in a different universe, with different physical laws, or something like that. Dubious is one word for it. The other comes from the hind end of male cattle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T18:46:41.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5243" CreationDate="2011-08-03T21:01:17.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;YES! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had frame damage occur, but it was not from chain slap alone! As Daniel mentioned, it was on a steel steed, that led to corrosion. In fact it was on the very first bike in which I was totally smitten, a Ritchey P-23 :(  Sadly, the chainstay did crack. Ritchey did repair, so all was not lost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term ridden hard and put away wet...yep on steel frames with chain slap or any paint chips for that matter is not a good idea! Most of us keep our bikes in a garage or in basement rampant with moisture. The MIT (most important thing) is to dry your steel steed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the years I have seen this numerous times and just saw an old Serrota at the LBS with major rust to point where the shop was not going to do any repairs because failure was imminent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of my riding is in RI, along the ocean, so that may accelerate the corrosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T21:01:17.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5243" CreationDate="2011-08-03T21:15:13.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use only thick electrical tape on my frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and my freewheel was crap, practically not freewheeling at all. when I opened it up to re-oil it, it was completely dry. Also the rear derraileur was not adjusted in some 10yrs, and the cable had one split cable that was holding it all up when upshifiting. So i bet this is the worse it can get (only good thing was that the chain was new). And still i hardly have any mark on the electrical tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;of course, that's all just my limited experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T21:15:13.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5209" CreationDate="2011-08-03T22:20:24.847" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that you know what you want and what your budget is (new, road, race, $3k), there are a few decisions and tradeoffs you have to work with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you want a &quot;comfortable long distance&quot; race bike or a &quot;razor sharp handling&quot; race bike? The differences may not be huge between the two types, so you'll really need to test ride both variants to see which you prefer.  Make sure you test ride for 30-50 miles if that's your minimum &quot;long ride&quot;.  You want to figure out if you prefer the slightly more relaxed or slightly more twitchy geometry.  The good news is most manufacturers make both types of bike, so this is more for you to figure out what fits you best.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you want a carbon frame, aluminum frame, or something more traditional or esoteric like steel or titanium?  Each has their plusses and minuses (you can search for related questions); the different material tends to impact price most, and comfort to a lesser degree.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decide what level of components you want (shifters, brakes, derailleurs, gears, crankset).  For your stated purpose, you'll probably want at minimum Shimano 105 or Sram Apex (I don't think you'll find too many Campagnolo-equipped bikes in the typical US bike shop).  I say &quot;at minimum&quot; but these are already capable enough that they will each give you many years of great service even for racing.  You will find many bikes come with a mix, especially lesser brakes (e.g. Tektro) and cranksets (e.g. FSA); so decide if that matters to you.  You can go also one level up to Shimano Ultregra or Sram Rival if you want better components (and higher levels exist too). Note, in my mind I equate 105 = Apex, Ultegra = Rival, but some people might argue that they are not comparable; some might say Apex &amp;lt;= 105 &amp;lt;= Rival &amp;lt;= Ultegra. Also note that Shimano and Sram shift differently (shift with shift and brake lever vs. two shifting modes on one shift lever), so test ride each to see if you prefer one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a bike shop you like, not for the brands they carry but for the level of service and attention they give you.  Choosing a good LBS is more important than choosing the bike manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, are there any miscellaneous specs you want, or care about?  Triple, double, or &#xA;compact double crank gears?  25t, 28t, or 32t largest rear gear?  (I.e. what gear ranges do you need for the flats or hills or mountains you'll be riding?)  Mounts for fenders or &#xA;panniers?  Ability to mount wider tires (25 or 28 mm, or bigger)?  These are all small things, but they will steer you toward and away from certain models.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that matter less: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturer.  Most manufacturers have models that fit most of the different categories &#xA;above, so unless you have a real yearning (or hatred) for particular brands, picking a bike by its paint job is more important than picking by manufacturer.  Of course, if your favorite LBS only stocks a couple brands, that may play a larger part in narrowing the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheels.  The common wisdom is that most bikes come with basic wheels that are appropriate to the bike's price point, but are otherwise unremarkable.  You probably won't find excellent wheels on any bike in your price range.  You can ride them for while, or you can budget for replacement wheels and buy a cheaper bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then comes the hard part: Making the tradeoffs between features and price, to fit within your budget.  Do you want a carbon frame and more basic components, or an aluminum frame with higher end components?  Budget for great wheels in the initial $3k, or in a year or two?  Buy last year's leftover model vs. the new year's model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you just have to test ride the bikes on your short list!  But remember, the FIT of a &#xA;particular bike can make or break how it feels, so make sure you're testing the right frame size and it is well set up for your dimensions.  I.e. the LBS should set up each bike &quot;perfectly&quot; to you, so you can evaluate the pure ride and handling differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1674" LastEditorUserId="1674" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T00:30:35.623" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T00:30:35.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5243" CreationDate="2011-08-04T01:00:29.887" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;YES and NO&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of frame and type of riding you are doing it could be a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;YES (you might have a problem)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have a &lt;strong&gt;steel&lt;/strong&gt; frame slapping of the chain can damage the paint which is very important in keeping oxidants like water and air away from the bare steel. Steel will rust and eventually fail catastrophically.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have a &lt;strong&gt;composite mountain bike frame&lt;/strong&gt;, chain slap can damage the outer layers of fiber which generally carry the most load. Nicks made by the chain in the frame's resin could be propagation sites for cracks that can lead to delaminating and failure. If you are missing or have worn through the factory included sticker guards, I would apply some type of wear guard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;NO (It won't be a problem)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have &lt;strong&gt;aluminum&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;stainless steel&lt;/strong&gt; or another &lt;em&gt;relatively&lt;/em&gt; non-corrosive metallic frame, no amount of beating with a chain is going to cause the thing to break. Aluminum and stainless steel are ductile materials and are very hard to damage without hitting them very hard with a large mass or by using some type of lever to bend them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Probably No...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a &lt;strong&gt;composite road bike&lt;/strong&gt;, chain slap &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; damage the outer layers of fiber or &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; cause cracks in the frame as well, however the likelyhood of this happening is very small. Composite frame manufacturers generally include one ply of weave fiber on the lower chain stays to increase the durability along with a plastic sticker which should be more than adequate for many years of riding. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it’s worth I have &amp;lt;14 lbm composite road bike and I would never think of adding electrical tape (I’m counting grams here) for something as silly as chain slap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T01:16:05.733" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T01:16:05.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5255" CreationDate="2011-08-04T02:03:39.513" Score="72" ViewCount="110179" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might seem like a really basic question, but there's no harm in asking. I've never had a bicycle with drop handlebars. I've always had sort of standard horizontal bars with only one hand position, which is on the rubber grips. I'm outgrowing the bike I have now, and thinking of upgrading next year to something faster. Pretty much every faster bike has drop handlebars, but I'm not sure how to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that there are multiple hand positions. I'm sure I can figure out for myself which ones are more comfortable than others just by feel. But I don't want to necessarily do what feels natural, I want to ride properly. What are all the different hand positions available on drop bars? Which positions do you use in which scenarios?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't want to put myself in a dangerous, uncomfortable, impractical, or stupid-looking situation by having my hands in the wrong place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1332" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-04-30T20:46:02.123" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T07:05:07.453" Title="How to use drop handlebars properly?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;canonical-answer&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5283" CreationDate="2011-08-04T02:04:51.767" Score="3" ViewCount="10885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to build a custom belt-drive bike for my daily commute. I am looking for a frame and a belt-drive kit for a total budget of about 500$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride all year long, and winters here (Montreal, Canada) are pretty hard on bikes, so I need a simple yet robust frame. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T04:50:33.643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T10:01:15.197" Title="What belt-drive compatible frame and belt-drive kit would you recommend?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2011-08-04T02:19:25.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume people do this but maybe not everyone does - look for an alternate route. I will take a route that is slightly longer and slower if it means I feel like I am welcome on the road and in less danger. e.g. side streets, local streets, where cars can't travel as fast. Also, roads that are more commonly taken by cyclists. The more cyclists on the road, the more &quot;normal&quot; you are, and the more that motorists will be aware they need to look out for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in Melbourne, maybe you can take a detour which doesn't have a tram? I would favour riding up Swanston over Elizabeth - less car traffic, no parked cars, more cyclists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2010" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T02:19:25.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2011-08-04T02:22:28.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's the best approach when the light is already green and there are&#xA;  hook turning motorists waiting? Go up the left so they don't turn&#xA;  right on top of me, or the right so I have space to move and am not&#xA;  fighting pedestrians?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will do either, depending on the situation. If there is still lots of car traffic streaming straight ahead, go with them on the right. If you are concerned the green might end soon and don't want to get trapped, go on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But generally if the light is green, I would go on the right. Hook turn drivers need to check that the traffic has stopped before they actually go, so they would normally wait until your light is red and their light is green. They're not going to check because they're thinking of cyclists, but they are thinking of cars side-swiping them. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2010" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T02:22:28.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5251" CreationDate="2011-08-04T02:41:31.663" Score="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 basic hand positions that most people use on a drop bar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the Hoods - This position allows you to reach the brakes and shifters without moving your hands and allows a fairly upright, and comfortable body position. Most riders spend 75-90% of their miles in this position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the Drops - This position is ideal for more aerodynamic body positions, or more athletic efforts. When you want to go hard, go here. You can reach brakes and shifters, but may have to move your hands, depending on your setup. This is generally used for descending long hills, or an aggressive position. It is less stable, and it is used for maybe 10% or less of most riders' mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the Tops - This position allows a comfortable alternative position for more relaxed riding. It is generally used when going at an easy pace, and in situations where you are certain of the road conditions, traffic and other hazards. You definitely can not reach the brakes or shifters from this position without moving your hands. It is less stable due to narrower hand position, though it may not feel like it. Most riders use it as a cool down position for 10% or so of their mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I1GD0.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Hand positions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="36999" LastEditDate="2020-09-30T02:57:07.540" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T02:57:07.540" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5252" CreationDate="2011-08-04T02:50:08.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find a frame price, but there are good reviews on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://spotbrand.com/bikes/product-page/coyote-belt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spot Coyote belt&lt;/a&gt; drive bikes, and the complete bike with belt drive is $1100 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also make Ti frames with the same idea, but higher priced of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect that the frame would be around $450-500. Your budget might be a touch low, since any quality frame will start at this price mark, and go up, and isn't likely to include the belt drive kit, unless you buy the complete bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T02:50:08.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5252" CreationDate="2011-08-04T04:00:55.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try converting an existing frame/bike if you have one (or can pick one up cheap). It would work best if you had a singlespeed/internal hub geared donor bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace your chain ring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the chain with a belt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace your rear cog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the rear stay and insert a joiner (the most complicated task)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to either do the work yourself or find someone locally who can convert an existing bike. It sounds like a fun project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stkildacycles.com.au/gates-belt-drive-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;St Kilda cycles&lt;/a&gt; (yes, I know they're almost certainly not convenient to you) can convert an existing bike to be belt driven. I just gave them a call and they cut the frame at the rear stay and insert a joiner, then replace the chainring, rear cog and chain for a belt. They're quoting $850 to $1000 (AUD) for all the parts and labour - the variance is because depending on the frame they can use an off the shelf frame joiner or whether they have to machine one up themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ih-5yiRz-g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a video&lt;/a&gt; of someone doing a conversion.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&amp;amp;t=36624&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's another thead&lt;/a&gt; discussion options and pros/cons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T05:14:32.643" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T05:14:32.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5233" CreationDate="2011-08-04T05:31:33.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rubber is porous, and tubes are cheap. It's possible to get a poor tube. If it keeps bugging you, don't waste your time, buy another tube, and carefully rub the inside of your tire wall when you change it, to feel for pokeys stuck in your tire wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apply a lathery soap solution to the outside of the tube when inflated and watch for bubbles. I've seen my local bike mechanic hang an inflated tube on his wall for over a week looking for slow leaks. I don't invest in expensive tubes, I wouldn't do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do get repeated flats, pay attention to the alignment of the tube and tire, which side of the tube was on the left, and which side of the tire was on the left. This can help find pokeys in the tire wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride the bike with very low tire pressure, it's possible to get grit under the bead of the tire and then you have bits of rock slowly grinding holes into the tube. I've found all kinds of stuff can poke thru tires: gravel, drill shavings, staples, thorns, glass. My commute was so dirty for a while, I regliously took a pair of needlenose to my tires ever weekend to reduce the rock count. I'd like to mention that those were some 2&quot; Bontraget hybrid tires. On my current bikes, I have heavier Schwalbe Marathons, and they have not suffered a puncture yet (fingers crossed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T05:31:33.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5261" CreationDate="2011-08-04T05:42:35.770" Score="3" ViewCount="1070" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading on every site about front dérailleur adjustment, the distance from the bottom of the outer dérailleur plate to the bigger crank cog should be &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one penny&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBi2o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;park tool image, not mine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine is around 1cm! it does shift OK. not perfectly, i have to spin it very slowly and constant for the chain to move. but works. never dropped the chain or jammed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front dérailleur is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=02b9040f-3241-4c11-94a2-94d0774e24df&amp;amp;Enum=113&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano FD-MT60-AL, Deore&lt;/a&gt; (if you look at the pic here, it's showing a much closer distance, but it's also showing a rusty chain... so I will not mimic it right now :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crank is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=dadd7d79-0fd8-4a5b-a578-4f76495ec375&amp;amp;Enum=115&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;biopace&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a pic of my bike. Since the crank is not round, i've set it up on the &quot;closest&quot; point to the derailleur&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPIul.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;distance from front deore dérailleur to biopace crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another pic.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LmFwy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another angle. There's no height adjustment, and there's no mark on the frame suggesting it ever was at another position. Can it be some lack of lube internally or bad cable messing things up?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dKoRx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;view of the derailleur adjustments&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T07:00:33.470" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T07:00:33.470" Title="ideal dérailleur height for a Deore on non-round/oval Cranksets (e.g. a Biopace)?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-04T06:37:56.377" Score="7" ViewCount="4474" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grandpa gave me his old 1974 Raleigh International (all original Campy) as a graduation present. Since the stock wheels are for tubular tires, and I do want to ride it around town, I want to get wheels for clincher tires so I can change the inner tube when I flat rather than having to mess with glue jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new rear wheel means that I can have an option of getting a rear wheel with shimano hyperglide so I can choose modern cassettes. Because the shifters are friction shifters rather than indexed shifters, does it matter how many cogs are in the cassette? Do I have to stick with 5 or could I even go to 10?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I stand corrected that the frame is steel and not alumninum. I was mistaken because the bike is significantly lighter than other steel-framed bikes I have dealt with. I apologize for this error.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1802" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T00:58:44.810" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T00:58:44.810" Title="Does it matter which cassette I get for downtube friction shifters?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5259" CreationDate="2011-08-04T07:08:46.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom of the front cage on your front derailleur should be about 2mm higher than the chain ring, when the derailleur has no cable tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, when it is in the smallest front gear position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Bio-pace rings, that doesn't change. but it must be measured at the point when the chain ring comes closest to the derailleur cage. (The hardest part of your large ring.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some older derailleurs may have had different expectations. But not that I am aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T07:08:46.617" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5260" CreationDate="2011-08-04T07:12:40.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to measure the distance between the rear dropouts of the bike. Current road wheels are 130mm between the dropouts. 126mm or 127.5mm were common. 5 speed will likely be 126mm. Assuming a steel frame, you should be able to put a 9/10 speed wheel in the frame, but you may have to spread the frame for it to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike is 5 speed campy friction. It has an O.L.D. no wider than 127.5mm. Most likely it is 126mm. It will not be 135mm, as that is a current mountain bike hub. A 126 usually has no problem being stretched to a 130mm, which is current road standard. You will likely need to replace the shifters as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shifters may or may not have the range for a 10 speed cassette, but Dura-Ace 9 speed friction shifters are still available around, and they may have ten speed. If you go Campagnolo, you should be able to get 10 and 11 speed shifters, although the wheels my cost you as much as a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the bike, you may want to consider its collectors value and condition, before you make major irreversible modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the least, keep the original parts so you can return it to the original condition of the bike for the purpose of a collector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T08:19:22.717" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T08:19:22.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5260" CreationDate="2011-08-04T07:25:02.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your outside locknut dimension is likely to be less than 135mm, at a guess you are on 130mm and there is an outside chance you are on 126mm. Only so much can be achieved by spreading the stays and removing washers to get a 135mm hub to fit in there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend having a search for NOS hubs and freewheel of that period, if you can get hold of a set of 36h hubs you will be doing well, don't expect 32h. Regina freewheels in 6 speed do exist in NOS, getting the removal tool is a lot easier as they are still made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are successful in NOS land, look out for some Mavic MA2 (Silver) or MA40 rims. They should be sufficiently period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I shift gears in multiples of twos and threes, you should be able to survive on 6 speed and not feel two deprived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the NOS market does not bear fruit, consider getting cheap 8/9 speed Shimano hubs + cassette. Then if it does not fit you can either force the chainstays open, however that will possibly ruin the track (as only one stay will bend). Or cut down the spindle by 5mm and the spacer on the left hand side. You can then build the wheel around that with different dish to what you would normally get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T08:16:39.317" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T08:16:39.317" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5272" CreationDate="2011-08-04T09:37:05.613" Score="12" ViewCount="34837" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply knowing the number of teeth on a chainring can we determine an accurate diameter? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T18:15:26.963" Title="How do I calculate the diameter of a chainring from the number of teeth?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5264" CreationDate="2011-08-04T10:38:29.633" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://math.stackexchange.com/q/55751/12395&quot;&gt;posted this question on math.se&lt;/a&gt;, and got &lt;a href=&quot;https://math.stackexchange.com/questions/55751/how-do-i-calculate-the-diameter-of-a-bicycle-chainring-from-the-number-of-teeth/55774#55774&quot;&gt;an interesting answer&lt;/a&gt;, which basically confirms Lantius' answer as the more accurate mathematical model, and mine as a practical approximation for the bicycle world.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With only the number of teeth, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But given the number of teeth, and the required spacing from tip to tip of each tooth to match the chain for the brand of chain ring used, you can easily determine the circumference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the circumference, it's simple math to determine the diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Divide the diameter by Pi&#xA;(3.14159 to the 5th decimal) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C = D/3.14159&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the number of teeth is 53, and the spacing is 12.75mm, we have a circumference of 675.75 millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;675.75 millimeters divided by 3.14159 gives a diameter of 215.1 millimeters. Converted and rounded to 2 places, it's 8.46 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've measured the diameter of a 53 tooth Shimano chain ring, and it is 8.51 inches. So I believe my math should be as accurate as the tolerances in my measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6x5Oz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of formula and method&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:22:09.880" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T07:45:14.747" CommentCount="31" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4199" CreationDate="2011-08-04T11:13:17.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;White grease&quot;.  This is, as it sounds, a grease that is white.  Comes in &quot;toothpaste&quot; tubes and spray cans.  An auto store will know what you mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little dab 'll do ya.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T03:24:58.727" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T03:24:58.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5269" CreationDate="2011-08-04T14:32:49.887" Score="49" ViewCount="69431" Body="&lt;p&gt;It used to be very common to see bikes with dual pull brake levers (if that's even the right name) as shown below. However now it seems almost impossible to find brakes like this.  Even finding a picture to post was hard.  It seems like it would be quite useful to be able to brake from various hand positions.  There was an answer I read a while back (can't find it now) that stated that there was a reason they got rid of those, but no explanation as to why. So any technical reason, or is it just for looks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kfNWB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dual pull brake levers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T19:05:23.183" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T16:45:14.297" Title="Why don't brakes come with 'Safety Levers' any more?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5267" CreationDate="2011-08-04T15:07:50.980" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;They have the nickname of suicide brakes for a reason. Because they are not pulling directly on the brake, rather pulling on something that pulls on the brake, you are not going to get the same stopping power you would if you used the primary braking mechanism. At our shop we encourage people to let us take them off and we bend them into bike hooks using a vice because we would rather people get their braking power from a primary system. Also if you brakes are not as tight as they should be, like most people's, these will provide almost no stopping power anyway. So they are pretty much useless unless calibrated perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T17:55:56.157" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T17:55:56.157" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5267" CreationDate="2011-08-04T17:03:09.887" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe there are multiple reasons that &quot;extension&quot;/&quot;dual-pull&quot;/&quot;safety&quot;/&quot;suicide&quot; levers aren't seen anymore:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're really a solution for a poorly fit bike, where the rider can't reach the regular brake levers. Fix that and you don't need an extra lever on the flat of the handlebars. This was especially a problem for smaller riders. Bike sizing and fit have improved a lot since then.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since they effectively pre-pull your brake a little, they reduce how much travel you can get out of the primary brake lever which can reduce the effectiveness of that primary brake lever. (I guess some designs don't have this problem, but most did)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using them puts your hands in a location that doesn't give you much leverage for controlling the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's an extra piece that can break (and leave you unable to brake). Especially, if the main brake lever is knocked out of alignment, the extension lever will hit the handlebar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modern brake levers (&quot;aero&quot;?) have a different pivot setup that works better over all, but especially works better with hands on the hoods than old levers did. Extension levers simply won't work because of the way a modern lever pivots. If you look at a modern brake lever, when you pull the lever the top of the lever doesn't go down, it goes forward, and extension levers rely on pushing down on the top of the lever. Sin As you can see from these blurry pictures of a vaguely modern brake lever, the pivot is somewhat low and in front and the top of the lever rotates straight forward. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/luCpL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o6LPU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somebody invented &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-levers-drop.html#cross&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;interrupter&quot; or &quot;cyclocross&quot; levers&lt;/a&gt; which go mid-cable instead, allowing you to get the same end result (a second brake lever) without any of the problems of extension levers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some regulation changes and historical market realities &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5267/why-dont-brakes-come-with-safety-levers-any-more/5271#5271&quot;&gt;that ʍǝɥʇɐɯ discusses in his answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T01:47:27.837" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5267" CreationDate="2011-08-04T17:38:00.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think they still do exist, but are much less common, and in a much improved design.  The old design (as pictured) would &quot;bottom out&quot; very easily, especially given the flex in the lever.  So they didn't provide very effective braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I'm thinking that the CPSC had something to do with their disappearance, by requiring that they be demonstrated to be effective, essentially eliminating the cheaper models (which comprised about 99% of those made).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the drop handlebar fell out of fashion for casual riding, where the levers would be most useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T17:38:00.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5267" CreationDate="2011-08-04T17:39:19.950" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because Shimano did not make them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the late 1980's Shimano began bringing out compelling groupsets that included compelling innovations such as indexed gears, BioPace chainrings and improved brakes. The brakes had a spring in the lever and a lighter spring in the brake making them much easier to use. They also pioneered hidden cables from the brake lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time the Yen was low and Shimano products competed very well on price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, Shimano did a 'Microsoft' on the OEM market, to use the indexed gears you had to have the whole groupset. There was no mix and match like you have today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a consequence of Shimano's improved technology, the value of the Yen and their sales tactics of complete groupset or nothing, their competitors had a tough time. This led to consolidation in the European component business leading to the SRAM company that we have today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dual-pull levers pictured were most likely to be a Dia-Compe design made by Weinmann. Weinmann brakes were de-rigeur in Europe OEMs until the Shimano era of market domination. They lost their footing in the marketplace and haven't been seen since the early nineties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These levers were marketed as 'Safety Levers' and they were a requirement for bikes imported into the USA for a time. Exactly what the law was requiring the 'Safety Lever' and when it was no longer a requirement is a matter for further research - not a lot exists online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In time the dual-pull levers emerged in copies from the far East. The Dia-Compe/Weinmann patent on the dual-pull lever may have expired making the way for clones. These clones appeared on bikes after the demise of Weinmann and are of inferior quality to the originals with chrome parts rusting up pretty quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture from the 1983 catalogue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ExAL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_itemId=29093&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_itemId=29093&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-08-04T18:07:57.477" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T18:07:57.477" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5264" CreationDate="2011-08-04T21:03:03.893" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A chainring is an n-sided regular polygon where &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt; is the number of teeth.  The side length &lt;strong&gt;s&lt;/strong&gt; of the polygon is the distance from tip-to-tip of each chainring tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mathopenref.com/polygonradius.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;radius of a regular polygon&lt;/a&gt; is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VSHyf.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VSHyf.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mathopenref.com/images/polygons/sideradius.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mathopenref.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using zenbike's 12.75mm above for &lt;strong&gt;s&lt;/strong&gt;, we get 107.61 for the radius, or 215.22mm for the diameter, which is very close to his approximation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing the two formulas shows that the length term, as expected, can be eliminated. This leaves us with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 / sin( &lt;strong&gt;pi&lt;/strong&gt; / &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt; ) vs. &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt; / &lt;strong&gt;pi&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For large &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt;, those terms converge, introducing an error of just .12mm when &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt;=53. It's a bit larger as &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt; gets smaller, differing by .64mm for n=11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all practical purposes, I'd just use &lt;strong&gt;s&lt;/strong&gt; * &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt; / &lt;strong&gt;pi&lt;/strong&gt;, even for the smallest cog you'll come across it'll be within a millimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-02-18T18:15:26.963" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5260" CreationDate="2011-08-05T00:05:51.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, your 1974 Campagnolo 5-speed hubs are likely to be 120mm spaced - you can see them in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campyonly.com/history/1974/record.pdf&quot;&gt;1974 Campagnolo catalog&lt;/a&gt;.  You're going to have a difficult time finding even old road hubs to fit that spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm extremely doubtful that you have a 1974 Raleigh International in aluminum, since they were originally built with Reynolds 531 steel and Raleigh didn't list any aluminum frames in their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/catalogs/Raleigh-Catalog-1974.pdf&quot;&gt;1974 catalog&lt;/a&gt;.  A quick test with a magnet should confirm for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, you're left with a limited number of options for the rear wheel, most of which have been hashed out above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue using the current tubular wheelset. Simple, but you'll have to get more practice working with tubular tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-space the rear triangle. It's steel so, with caution, it should be straightforward. You'd need to add 6mm just to get to old 6-7spd hubs, and 10mm to get to a modern road cassette hub. If you're clever with moving spacers and wheel dishing you might be able to eke out another couple mm in there. A big disadvantage here is that you'd need to re-space the frame back if you wish to restore it to the stock hubs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a NOS, used, or expensive &lt;A href=&quot;https://philwood.com/products/hubspgs/roadhubs.php&quot;&gt;Phil Wood&lt;/a&gt; 120mm freewheel hub and build it up with a clincher rim. The only limitation there is that of eBay and the fact that 90% of 120mm hubs you'll come across are modern single-speed track hubs, unsuited to your intended goal. Also a disadvantage, you'll still only get up to 6, maybe 7 gears total.  That said, building it up around a very similar wheelset to the one on there now except for clinchers is probably a good option - you might pay a bit of a premium for identical Campagnolo hubs of the same vintage, but you'll keep the aesthetics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T00:05:51.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5281" CreationDate="2011-08-05T05:21:04.220" Score="14" ViewCount="4470" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking into an IGH it seems the biggest disadvantage is having a huge amount of rotating mass. I've seen one handmade bike where the IGH sits above the bracket, inside a carbon fibre shroud around the place some bikes have rear suspension. There are two chains, one driving the IGH and another to drive the rear wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not have an internally geared bottom bracket where the cranks drive the input shaft and the crank ring rotates at a ratio selectable by the gear lever? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the rear wheel could have a single drive wheel driven by a chain or belt and a lightweight hub just solid enough to mount the spokes and disc. Then you could have mud-free gearing while reducing rotating mass even below what you have with a conventional cassette... and given that you have thrown out the bottom bracket the overall weight gain would be less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite a job for the home builder to adapt an existing hub I guess but it should be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T23:06:38.073" Title="Why not have the gears inside the bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5274" CreationDate="2011-08-05T05:46:55.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of crank designs that use this principle. Off hand, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-hammerschmidt-am-crankset&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;HammerSchmidt crank&lt;/a&gt; from SRAM is the most practical current application of it because it doesn't require deviation from the current frame specifications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ChJLa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SRAM HammerSchmidt 2- speed crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is only 2 gears, and the shifting is built into the crank, rather than inside the BB shell, that is a limitation of the currently marketed frame specifications, and it is only likely to change if consumers show a massive interest in BB Gearbox, enough to convince a manufacturer or 2 to stick their neck out on a new design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor to consider in modifying or building your own frame is How to keep the BB spindle relatively placed where it is in relation to the saddle position, for correct fit applications, while simultaneously increasing the BB shell by an approximate factor of 3, and not decreasing ether tire clearance or ground clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suntour, Hayes, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_RN-01_G-cross&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Honda&lt;/a&gt; and Nicolai were all rumored to be building something like this for the DH market, but nothing has currently come available for sale that I can find. These photos are of the Suntour Gearbox offered up at the 2006 Interbike Show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jWBEC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Suntour DH Gearbox&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWcHR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Suntour DH Gearbox&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these are issues that could be worked out, and I think overall, this is an excellent idea if we could apply it to the belt drive, commuter/touring market. Commercially, probably not feasible, but maybe a niche market for a custom builder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T07:12:22.977" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T07:12:22.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5279" CreationDate="2011-08-05T05:58:34.133" Score="10" ViewCount="37997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some Bell anatomic handlebar grips that tend to slide (rotate) on the bar. I've read that using hair spray is useful, but tends to be rather permanent. I'd like to make the grip tackier but not a permanent application. Would any of these techniques be worthwhile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a strip of masking tape on the bar, or run along the inside of the grip?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a modest swipe of honey in the grip before application? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a segment of innertube between the two? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have rubbed the inside of the grips out with an isopropyl soaked rag and rubbed down the handlebars of two of the bikes and this has helped a lot. Some advice I got from my favorite LBS mechanic was specific to the black tooth finish on my SKS bars: his advice was to wrap bars with a bit of electrical tape. I will try that, as the grips on the black bars are a bit firmer, but are still not great. Thank you for your answers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single wrap of electrical tape on the black SKS bars was just the trick! I did a spread spiral with the tape, and was able to twist the grips on in the same direction as the spiral. (No hair spray has yet made it to my shed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastEditorUserId="1944" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T06:51:53.120" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T07:58:37.333" Title="Securing sliding bar grips without hair spray?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;grips&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2011-08-05T06:40:35.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Talk to your workmates/classmates&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find some others that cycle, and they can give you tips about where to keep your bike, nearby showers or lockers, and local routes. If enough of you join forces you could lobby for some company change rooms. :) And you will know who to talk to if one day you need to borrow a spanner at work or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2010" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T06:40:35.523" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-05T06:40:35.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5276" CreationDate="2011-08-05T06:43:19.530" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wipe the bar with isopropyl alcohol. It evaporates completely and will leave dry rubber against a clean bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they slip and slide after more than about 24 hours left alone, the you may need to replace the grips (assuming they're not new).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high alcohol content is what makes hairspray effective, and using isopropyl alcohol cuts out the sticky residue of the hairspray that is made up of its remaining content. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A grip left on its own will bond to the bar after some time, even if installed completely without any additives, so you still may need to cut them loose when it's time to change them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, use either a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&amp;amp;q=ODI%20Lock%20ons&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&amp;amp;biw=1600&amp;amp;bih=732&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=1241963373731849458&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=o5g7TvWnCIuGrAfdnozoDw&amp;amp;ved=0CDwQ8gIwBg&quot;&gt;lock on grip&lt;/a&gt;, or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/forum/general-dirt-bike-discussion/2957-what-do-you-use-secure-your-grips.html&quot;&gt;wire twist&lt;/a&gt; to secure a loose grip without lock ons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I5ZG0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ODI Lock ons&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmZwN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Secured with wire&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for honey, masking tape, or adding a piece of tube, it would be very difficult to install them, honey would be more permanent by far than hairspray, and there are better alternatives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hairspray, btw, is not permanent. It's just difficult to remove without a compressor or damaging the grip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T07:18:51.543" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T07:18:51.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5276" CreationDate="2011-08-05T06:43:53.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hairspray works great and you just need to slide a small but long screwdriver inside the grip (and waggle it around) to pull it off, so it is not permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hairspray lets you ease the grip on, which is otherwise very hard to do unless you have access to high-pressure air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other approaches you have described look like hard work to me and I don't think I would try them on my own bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have hairspray in the house then do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T06:43:53.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5274" CreationDate="2011-08-05T07:02:42.930" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lack of popularity is partially because it's a solution in need of a problem.  The effect of rotating mass in general is generally overstated when considering the total energy that goes into cycling, and mass near the axle has even less of an effect.  You can &lt;A href=&quot;http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-027/index.html&quot;&gt;work out the math here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage comes when considering unsprung mass on full-suspension bikes, where having weight on the rider's side of the suspension can improve the handling and response of the bike. This is why inroads have been made in downhill circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T07:02:42.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-05T09:53:15.340" Score="4" ViewCount="3472" Body="&lt;p&gt;When mountain bikes first became popular people were a lot more likely to buy a full set of frame pads than a helmet. Obviously helmets had all of the aesthetic appeal of a lycra covered fan-heater back then, however, frame pads were what you had if you really went off road and were serious about your mountain biking. They were not seen as frivolous, just sensible, a bit like a helmet. In the UK nobody would walk out of a bike shop with anything from a brand new Kona Cindercone to a Raleigh Maverick unless it was bedecked with at least one 'Cosmic Trail' frame pad in some garish colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as protecting your nether regions from the bike during an accident they also protected the frame from damage and made it a lot easier to carry the bike up stairs or over a fence. They had their uses on car-racks too. The benefits were undeniable even if the florescent did have a tendency to fade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, one day, when nobody was looking, they were suddenly removed from the bike shops and made no longer available for purchase. Were they that good that the powers that be in the bike trade had to kill them off, much like GM and the electric car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why have they not had a continued place in the market place? Given today's 'scratch 'n' snap' carbon frames and the fad for downhill-mountain-biking one would have thought they would be more popular than ever. As it is you only have a few pretend-messengers using them to hide the fact that their bike has got braze ons for the back brake and is not a true fixie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an advert for what was the UK's market leader - 'Cosmic Trail'. The all in one top tube and stem pad had the added advantage of smoothing out your steering making the bars less prone to being jolted by rocks etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQXbU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T14:23:06.967" Title="Why are frame pads no longer readily available?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5252" CreationDate="2011-08-05T10:01:15.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be a bit out of luck with that price range if you hope to get the whole kit.  The Gates belt, cog, and &quot;chain&quot;-ring retail online for over $200 by themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are some options if you are clever and dedicated. If you're able to find one of the old 90's mountain bikes with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=elevated+chainstay&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;elevated chainstays&lt;/a&gt; you can use one of the expensive ($125-$150) eccentric bottom brackets that mount in a normal 68mm shell for tension.  A 90's Nishiki should be fairly cheap, so you'd eke in just under your total price.  It's also fair to say that your bike would be a unique build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you have access to an affordable machinist, start with an inexpensive frame that has thick track-style dropouts. Modifying them into a variant of the &lt;A href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/singlespeedmaniac/2826348686/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;old Spot-style&lt;/a&gt; dropouts should be relatively easy with a dremel, some taps, and a skilled hand. This avoids the significant cost of the S&amp;amp;S couplers used by most belt-drive modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, unless the frame was purpose-built for a belt, you're going to be stuck modifying it. There are few, if-any, belt-specific frames in the market now, which keeps prices high.  The proper modifications either require an expensive S&amp;amp;S coupler or new dropouts, which are expensive to add aftermarket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T10:01:15.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5285" CreationDate="2011-08-05T10:26:10.330" Score="5" ViewCount="5598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem. Today I was riding (flat-out) up hill, and went to shift up a gear on the rear, which caused the chain to drop off the front chain-ring (was in the big-ring, so dropped to the outside). (For reference, road bike with Shimano 105, 52/39 and 25/12)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throughout the ride it dropped a few more times - generally under some form of load. I noticed that it wasn't always dropping off the big chain ring. Occasionally when taking off from lights (in the little ring), when I stood up to get going, the chain would fall off the front chain ring, to the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible this is anything other than incorrect limit screws? Maybe something out of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain problem (stiff link? But looks OK)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain-ring worn (this is on a ~4 year old road bike, maybe 25,000km without chaning front chain rings, but they don't have the 'shark-tooth' pattern)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bent hanger?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Here is a look at the chainring&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/57F31.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2025" LastEditorUserId="2025" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T11:49:07.933" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T12:52:27.577" Title="Chain drop under load" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5284" CreationDate="2011-08-05T10:50:43.330" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: @Qwirk: If you look at your photo, where the chain is resting on the small chain ring, do you see the gaps between chain and teeth? that is a key indicator of either extensive chain wear, extensive chain ring wear, or both. In this case, based on the appearance of the upper chain ring, I'm going to say both.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the first 3 options I'd look at, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you replaced your chain recently? If so, the new chain may not be meshing well with the old chain rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To figure out which, first &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2787/1259&quot;&gt;check the chain for wear&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't show any serious chain wear, compare the chain rings on your bike to a set of new chain rings. It doesn't have to be shark toothed to e worn, but that is most common. Hooking, or simply teeth that are significantly shortened will cause similar issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check as well for bent or missing teeth in the chain rings. This shouldn't be the case because it's happening in more than one gear, but it could still be. Also, check the rear cassette for missing or bent teeth, for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, if the rings do not appear worn, you should replace the chain, (or soak it and re-lube it at a minimum). This will eliminate the possibility of a burr or a sticking point in the chain that is more subtle than a stiff link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and a bent hanger would have to be pretty visible to cause this kind of activity, but it's still worth checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T11:55:56.127" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5711" CreationDate="2011-08-05T11:30:20.660" Score="1" ViewCount="3447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently thinking about buying a Dahon folding bike to replace my existing Dahon folding bike. &lt;em&gt;Brompton and other marques are not really a consideration because I like Dahon for many reasons - sensible gear range, better hinges (they owned the patents) and they are also possible to fold without a degree in engineering (unlike Mezzo).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in researching if I will be able to get an Alfine 11 on a Dahon any time soon I discover that Mr Hon's estranged wife and his son have taken the intellectual property of Dahon plus a few of the factories and setup this new company called 'Tern'. Meanwhile, Mr Hon has gone to court and tried to get a restraining order on the new upstart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Tern' could be the new Dahon and take over the UK distribution, in which case I would be stuck for spares down the road if I was to get that new Dahon Mu now. So, what do I do, get a Dahon or wait for a 'Tern'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebiz.com/news/read/us-federal-judge-denies-dr-david-hon-s-request-for-tern-to-quit/011621&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikebiz.com/news/read/us-federal-judge-denies-dr-david-hon-s-request-for-tern-to-quit/011621&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T14:35:53.303" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T17:13:37.787" Title="Should I buy a Dahon or wait for a Tern folding bike?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5276" CreationDate="2011-08-05T11:40:16.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing I'd try is washing the grips (inside) with a good detergent and rinsing well.  Then clean the bar well and wipe with alcohol.  Use only water or alcohol as a lubricant while installing the grips, and give them a few hours to &quot;set&quot; before riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would give the rubber its best chance at naturally grabbing the metal bar (which rubber will want to do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that fails, any of a number of home remedies, or there is an (expensive) liquid product used to install grips on gym equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T11:40:16.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5284" CreationDate="2011-08-05T11:48:52.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to try, of course, is adjusting the front derailer, but I suspect that it's a bad chain or the front rings or rear cluster are getting worn.  (As the front rings get worn there's a tendency to increase the range of the limit screws to &quot;encourage&quot; shifting.  If the rear cluster develops a &quot;hook&quot; then it will cause the chain to jump violently as you shift.)  Could also be something (eg bent hanger) causing the rear derailer to grab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that a sprocket (front or rear) is worn out long before it has visible &quot;hook&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were happening on only one side it would be possible that it was a chain line problem -- wheel not centered or frame bent.  But not likely with the problem in both directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[And if you haven't changed the chain in 25,000Km then it's is definitely worn out, and the cluster and rings are probably shot too.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T12:52:27.577" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T12:52:27.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5295" CreationDate="2011-08-05T16:31:54.280" Score="19" ViewCount="35328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an adult that is new to biking due to a triple whammy of a childhood aversion to effort, my family moving to a town on the side of a mountain with steep roads, and my bike getting run over by a neighbor (I gave up riding around age 10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't buy another one until my wife got me involved riding with her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought it from a guy on Craigslist.  He's had it in a storage unit for at least fifteen years, though possibly more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thumb shifters are unlabeled and don't have set stopping points for the gears. I can rotate the lever all the way around a 200 degree arc, the chain switches gears depending on where they're pointing.  They seem to have hints of rust on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike rides fine, though there is a slight grinding while pedaling unless I get the shifters &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; right, but as I can't tell where to stop them, this is difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife loves to ride and I want to get better at it so we can enjoy it together, I'm just worried that my bike isn't safe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to make sure it's safe and reliable?  I know nothing's been oiled or maintained for the previously mentioned time period or since I've bought it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a KHS, so it could be as old as 36 years, but I really have no idea how old it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jxoc4.png&quot; alt=&quot;My Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a bunch of pictures.  I hope they can help you identify things better.&#xA;Sorry about how much scrolling is required!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KDRL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shifters&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rqZEy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pedal Gears&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JTU1R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Not Sure&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2MKsr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Petals&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9GAk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back Gears&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vidGl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tires&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNHC4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front Badge&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQKPd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Under Seat&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oHdNR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Frame&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfRgV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1839" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T20:29:31.987" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T03:26:45.487" Title="How do I bring an old bike up to speed?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2011-08-05T16:46:12.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With all respect, you should look at a new bike, or a used one which is far more current than the one you've got now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are uncomfortable riding it, feel unsafe, or it requires more skill than you have to ride it comfortably, then get one that is comfortable and safe for you. You can buy a new, basic mountain bike, hybrid. or urban bike for about $500 US dollars, which will be more comfortable, and outperform what you have now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recondition that bike to any real standard, especially if you want to modernize gears, or brakes, will cost you at least half that, and likely more. And you'll still have a bike which is missing years of design and performance improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are definitely old bikes which are classics, and well worth the cost and effort of reconditioning thoroughly, but that doesn't fall into that category, especially in it's current condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T17:54:07.567" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T17:54:07.567" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5238" CreationDate="2011-08-05T17:21:51.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated, return the Pocket Shock since the intended function is for shocks.  Look into the Topeak Race Rocket HP for a compact road pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2032" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T17:21:51.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2011-08-05T18:04:51.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got a bike there with thoroughly outmoded technology.  The handlebar-mounted friction shifters are likely functional, but take quite a  bit of practice to use properly.&#xA;The old-style cantilever brakes are likely functional as well but not nearly as powerful as modern equipment.&#xA;I would imagine that's a ten-speed (5-cogs) freewheel on the rear end of the bike.  Nothing per-se wrong unless it's not been properly maintained in which case the bearings will be suspect.  Freewheel set-ups are notorious for bent and broken axles as much of the axle length is unsupported.&#xA;I would say that if you were bike-handy and had your own tools and some time, you could render the bike into... A new-ish 30 year old bike.&#xA;You can get a nice, decent modern hybrid (or &quot;comfort&quot; or &quot;fitness&quot;) bike from a major manufacturer in the 300-ish dollar price range.&#xA;It will be better by far than this oldster was when it was new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T18:04:51.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2011-08-05T18:46:36.790" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Restoring the bike is a great way understand the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My history is similar to yours. Gave up bikes around 10. Wife want to me ride with her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a top of the line bike on CG for peanuts. of course, it was top of the line around the 90s :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cleaning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;start by REALLY cleaning the bike. simple green and brushes. don't be afraid to wet the bike. just avoid the seat if it's leather. and no water inside the tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;shifters&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start replacing the shifters for indexed ones. getting the same brands will usually work. but will require a lot of research to match them with the rear derraileurs (the gear shifting thing on the back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to just keep the ones you have (friction shifters) and feel the gears changing. Even with modern bikes, this is still the norm with the front gears, so no harm on going that route also. Plus, restoring and fine tunning the bike your self will make you 'know' how to feel the gears better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: i take that back. i kept my friction ones on my bike and rode the wife's bike with cheap indexed ones a few times. the friction are way better. also when the freewheel needed replacement i can get any number of gears i feel like and don't worry :). Indexed ones are better for changing on a whim. but are either freaking expensive or will require constant fiddling. friction are just install and forget. love them. unless you go expensive indexed. but i'm a cheap bastard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if it has Sealed bearings in the middle of the wheel you are fine. Those last a life time. It's that axle on each wheel. just turn them. if they keep rotating without ratling noises, you are fine. if they just turn a couple times after you roll them with your hand. you need new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also, if they wooble when you turn them. they need truing. that's the only skill that does not pay off to learn your self.  $15 at a bike shop and the wooble is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they rattle, dont' spin, wooble. just get new wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cables&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;inspect them all. pull them with your hand via each housing. if there's any drag. try to fix it (i did fix my rear derraileur cable by cutting one broken thread that was pointing outwards and so dragging in the housing. good as new now). If it's a brake cable, spew out the $7 and get a new one with new housings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WD-40 into all cable paths also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;brakes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin by checking that they still have plent of rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check your wheel rims for damages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you have to loose them and tighten them as close as possible to the rim. in a way that they are slightly curved against the wheel, with the BACK of the brake touching the wheel. the front of the brake is the front of the bike. it should look like: \ || /&#xA;you should be able to touch the rim with some &amp;lt;15% of travel of the brake. the rest of the travel should be extra pressure for breaking power. Play around a lot with this. there's several places where you can adjust your brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second step is to adjust them in a way that when you press the brakes, both sides touch the wheel at the same time! there's usually a screw on the side to control that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;make sure that NO other cable housing goes UNDER the front brakes cable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I can't stress this enough: test drive the bike on a straight run EVERY time you adjust them. mostly now that you are getting to know things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;bearings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bike has serviceable bearings in the cranks and in the freewheel (the thing that rotates the back wheel when you are not pedaling). usually your freewheel will be dry, cranks are almost always fine. check it by rotating the wheel and leaving the cranks still. if the chain is dragged to the front at slow rotating speeds, you have to grease/change the freehweel. I'd only change if the cogs are worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you will need a spanner tool to open those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;derraileurs&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will hear about them a lot. it's the pair of gears on the back that change the drive gear on the rear wheel, and the guide on the front that change the drive gear on the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It the easiest part to restore and adjust. If they do not move sideways when you press with your hands, open them up, clean, and grease the hell out of them. It's easy. was what took less time for me. but everyone will say the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when they are moving easily when you press them, read the parktool's article on how to adjust it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's probably more than I can remember now... but all in all it took me around a week and a half. And around $50 in tools/greases/new chains. I didn't have to replace any component or cable yet. And now i love to ride. I go to work every day riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now, to fully understand what you are doing, read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last link will point you to several expensive tools. I only need them to work on the cranks and remove the freewheel (you don't have to remove the freewheel unless you will replace it, i didn't know it back then). I got the tools asking around at work, one guy had a nice kit i could borrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T19:15:30.150" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T19:15:30.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2011-08-05T18:46:39.660" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, it's an old bike -- before &quot;indexed shifters&quot;, making it at least 20 years old, I suspect.  (The reflectors suggest to me that it's probably not over about 30 years old, though.)  Apparently, from the sound of things, it's working fairly well, though, and should be reasonably safe if a few details are given attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, the tires and tubes, if 20-30 years old, are probably rotten and apt to blow out without warning.  I'd advise replacing them (if you keep the bike).  At the very least check the tire sidewalls and the tube stem (bend it side to side a bit and look near the base) for cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes should be checked.  Mainly it's a question of &quot;do they work?&quot; (ie, stop the bike reasonably well with moderate hand pressure), as the rubber pads may have become too hard to be effective, requiring that the pads be replaced.  (Absolutely nothing wrong with cantilevered brakes, BTW.  It's &quot;old&quot; technology, yes, but still used on some new bikes, and quite reliable and easy to maintain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lightly lubing the chain (buy a small bottle of &quot;dry&quot; chain oil at a bike shop) and the derailers would be advised.  If the rear derailer is gummed up it should be cleaned, but if the bike is really so lightly used that's probably not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, there's not a lot that can go seriously wrong -- not sufficient to be a safety hazard, at least.  However, a brief checkup at a local bike shop might be worthwhile, or at least a look-see from a biker buddy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;grinding&quot; sound is &quot;normal&quot; (for a non-indexed system) and &quot;fixing&quot; is is basically a matter of learning how to adjust the shifters &quot;just right&quot;.  It's complicated by the fact that you have two shifters and two derailers, and both derailers can make noise.  So until you learn the ropes half the time you'll be adjusting the wrong shifter.  (But it's not really that hard to do this -- just takes a little practice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you decide to get a new bike, I'd advise using this one a bit first, to become familiar with handling a bike and to get a better feel for what &quot;fits&quot; you and what doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T18:46:39.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5299" CreationDate="2011-08-05T19:37:48.683" Score="3" ViewCount="3068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my Trek 3900 for about a year now, and I replaced the chain about 3 months ago, but otherwise it's running with the same parts it came with (not counting tubes and tires). &#xA;I had to replace my chain because it had gotten really rusty from riding in rain/mud/water on trails, and had started skipping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is, whenever I ride, if I get above or below a very light pressure when pedaling, the chain skips. I was wondering if this could be caused by my chain, which has gotten a little rusty but not as stretched as the other one was, or if I might need a new cassette?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just readjusted my derailer, but it still skips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1313" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-05T20:44:32.900" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T20:44:32.900" Title="Chain skipping on MTB" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5297" CreationDate="2011-08-05T19:51:49.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many miles do you suppose are on the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, your chain should not be rusty.  If you frequently ride in wet conditions you should use a &quot;wet&quot; chain oil on it, and clean it at least a 2-3 times a season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The skipping could be due to a rusty chain with frozen links, could be due to a poorly adjusted derailer, or could be due to a worn out cluster.  Though there's a fairly wide variation, a cluster on average is good for about 5K miles, and having a badly stretched chain wears the cluster (and chain rings) out faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T19:51:49.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5297" CreationDate="2011-08-05T19:52:44.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When your chain &quot;stretches&quot; beyond a certain point, typically .75mm per 4 inches links, it will begin to reshape the teeth on your cassette and chain rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point, replacing your chain will not help unless you also replace your cassette, and possibly your chain rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the answers on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2787/1259&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; to see how to know when your chain is worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your chain measures beyond 1.0mm per 4 inches, then you must replace chain, cassette and chain rings, or it will skip as you are describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T19:52:44.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5297" CreationDate="2011-08-05T20:06:30.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@zenbike is right on this - it is a common problem. What happened was that the old, 'stretched' chain damaged the rear sprockets. Look closely and you will see that the shape made by the sprockets is an elongated 'u' shape, particularly so on the sprockets prone to skipping (the smaller sprockets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the option to replace the sprockets, however, you will need a special tool to remove the sprockets and you may not have the money for the tools + sprockets right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, when confronted with this situation, I have continued to ride and, after not too long a time, the new chain 'stretches' to suit the sprockets and no longer skip. It need not stretch to the length of your old chain, just 'grow' the tolerances required to work with the setup that you have. It is up to you whether you follow this 'cheapskate' option, however, you will need to remember not to ride out of the saddle on the gears where skipping is a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you may have already damaged the new chain anyway and it will not be suited to a brand new sprocket set, you may want to see how you get on running 'cheapskate'. However, I cannot stress enough the importance: do remember to ride in the saddle as a jumping chain when out of the saddle is likely to cause you an accident when you least need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a short period, surprisingly short, the tolerances should be good and you'll get a bit more life out of your sprocket set. Eventually though you will have to replace sprocket+chain. Don't wait for the gears to start jumping again, check the wear of the chain. Too much wear will damage the front chainset and that will cost real money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tools for measuring chain wear, personally I prefer to just put a screwdriver under the most forward part of the chainset when the chain is on the outer ring and see how much you can pull it forward. If this gets to more than 5mm or so you know it is a badly worn chain. That is pure rule of thumb requiring experience, but that has worked for me in the past and I do not personally own a chain wear tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T20:06:30.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2011-08-05T20:28:08.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks well worth the effort. As @gcb says you can do it yourself and learn how to take care of everything on the bike. Although it does not have index gears and everything else fancy and sophisticated you can ride worry free about anyone stealing it and those handlebars should be nice and relaxed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One point of concern is the front brake - I would like to see a reflector bracket under the straddle wire and bolting to the hole at in the fork crown. That is a safety detail, if the brake cable snaps you don't want the straddle wire catching on the wheel and throwing you over the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than air in the tyres and a bit of lube there probably is not a great deal you need to do to get it running. That said, the front derailleur needs dropping by 5+mm so the outer cage is 1-3mm above the outer chain ring. This will need the front derailleur to be re-adjusted on the H-L screws and the cable pulling through to accommodate the drop. With the rear derailleur you may want to check that you cannot push the chain off into the spoke protector. The wheels may need a bit of a true, but if they go round and don't hit the brakes you are in business. As for the brakes, they should not pull all the way back to the bar. Also, with your hands you should not be able to twist the blocks out of alignment. Another thing to check for is play - can you move the wheels from side to side? The same with the chainset and headset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't really want to go the @gcb route, DIY, learning on the way, then you can take it into a shop for a basic service. Get a quote in advance and don't let them spend any money on it. The determining factor in whether you want to book it in might be your available tools and if there are problems you don't want to do, e.g. play in the bottom bracket, toe-ing in brakes or wheel truing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging by your photos, if I had to get this bike sorted for sale purposes, e.g. if it came in on a part exchange, I would spend no more than half an hour on it and check all of it in that time including a lot mentioned here. If it came in as a service then that would be an hour's worth of time and small niggles that might be okay for second hand would be attended to differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I am glad this bike has found an owner and even though it may not be the latest and greatest it will get you from A to B in retro style. Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T20:28:08.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5304" CreationDate="2011-08-06T00:38:53.880" Score="4" ViewCount="26904" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my previous &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5284/chain-drop-under-load&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; we determined that I probably need new chainrings. I was/am planning on replacing the chainrings, and leaving the original crank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this bike is running Shimano 105 FC-5600 kit.  I refer to the Shimano drive-train compatibility chart &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50lparsys-0025-downloadFile.html/01%29%20Drivetrain%20Compatability%20Chart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which says that that the FD-5600 front derailleur needs FC-5600,FC-5650,FC-R600 or FC-R550 front cranks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have to replace it, I wouldn't mind upgrading to a Ultegra-level chain-ring. According to (my reading of the chart), this is not possible. (which seems strange, I would have thought any 130BCD chainring with the same screw type should work. Is there a problem with derailleur clearance or something?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If so, is there a compatibility chart with other brands? (FSA/SRAM - obviously Campy wouldn't work!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2025" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T15:17:56.193" Title="Shimano Chainring Compatability" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5233" CreationDate="2011-08-06T01:03:42.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road tires with no obvious defects can definitely lose 10 PSI per day--there just isn't a whole lot of air volume so the tiniest leak through the tube or the valve will drop the pressure in a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moral of the story: check the air pressure &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; time you take out the road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T01:03:42.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5302" CreationDate="2011-08-06T03:07:49.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current Ultegra chain rings are in fact physically compatible with the 105. They do not look good on the 105 crank, however, because when Shimano redesigned the Ultegra and DuraAce level cranks to their Hollowtech II design, the made the chain rings hollow as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Th point where the chain ring meets the crank arm is noticeably thicker, and shaped quite different on the Ultegra chain ring and crank, compared to the 105.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the 105 FC-5700, which is newer than your FC-5600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gI6mw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;105 crank&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the Ultegra FC-6700, which compares to the FC-5700.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wDN50.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ultegra crank&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the extra shape and thickness where the chain ring bolts are? That is why they do not list Ultegra rings as compatible with 105.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can physically bolt them up, and they will work, but they look bad, and you don't get most of the benefits of the Ultegra ring, (mainly added stiffness), without the whole crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A set of Ultegra rings will cost 150 dollars, and a whole crankset, including rings will be around 250 dollars, so it might be worth just doing th whole crank, if you're interested n upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, just stick with the 105.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T03:07:49.527" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2011-08-06T06:20:01.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good Stuff Kalamane, Nothing like finding an old  bike and doing it up. There does  not appear to be much wrong with it that a good clean and oiling/grease will not solve. As mentioned by others go over the mechanical components/nuts and ensure they are fixed and tightened up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The components maybe old fashioned (retro?) but will work just as well as new components, just need to get use to them. Many profesionals have had to rough it with friction shifters in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do it up, ride it for a bit, then decide if you really need a new bike or maybe a more up market second hand one, dont spend lots of money on it unless you really fall in love with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T06:20:01.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2011-08-06T06:42:52.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hygiene standards can be a very personal point of view. Whatever it takes to enjoy staying hydrated is important to recognize here. For example, the most interesting advice I saw posted for a century ride recently was to place cucumber slices inside your water bottle to counteract the bottle taste. I keep my metal and plastic water bottles clean just as I would with other hand-wash dishes, no extra effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having lived in southern California and toted water bottled thru the desert on extended camping trips, and drank the &quot;salad water&quot; out of metal canteens and plastic jugs in 100F weather...I learned not to worry so much about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I always let my new water bottles soak in a baking soda solution to get the plastic taste out.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T06:42:52.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5308" CreationDate="2011-08-06T08:39:35.433" Score="7" ViewCount="34817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started riding road bikes seriously a couple of years ago at which point I acquired Exustar pedals and shoes. The pedals have kept up well, but my shoes are getting a bit tired and I'm wanting to get new ones. Seeing as I've ever only had one pair of shoes/pedals I don't really know how pedals and cleats compatibility works? Is there a standard shape for cleats? If I buy, Shimano shoes for example, will I be able to use them with my pedals? Or do I take the cleats off of my old shoes and put them on my new ones? How does it all work?! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate it if someone could enlighten me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1974" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T08:46:00.533" Title="Pedals and cleats compatibility" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5307" CreationDate="2011-08-06T10:52:34.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pedals and shoes come in two basic styles. While there are a few variations inside the style, since what you are looking at is shoes, that means your compatibility will rely one them being:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Road shoes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;These use the &quot;Look system&quot;, which uses a 3 bolt cleat. Shimano SPD-SL, Look Deltas, Look Keos, ad the Exustar EPS-R and Exustar ARC pedals all fit this system. It looks essentially like this, and although the cleat is specific to the brand and in some cases the model of pedal, the shoes will work for any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/prhdT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sidi road shoe&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mountain shoes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With a smaller 2 bolt cleat, and more tread on the sole, these use the Shimano SPD, Time ATAC, or similar 2 bolt cleats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JH92v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sidi Mountain Shoes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare your shoes to these, and buy either a road or mountain shoe to match your pedals. You are not limited by brand at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-08-07T08:46:00.533" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T08:46:00.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5307" CreationDate="2011-08-06T11:12:14.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exustar road pedals are compatible with Look cleats, so you need to make sure any new shoes you consider are also compatible with Look cleats. Luckily, shoes w/ Look compatibility are very common, but you will want to check specifically when downselecting which ones you want to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, when you buy new shoes, you should buy new cleats; old cleats which are worn or stressed may crack and cause, at best, an unhappy ride home or, at worst, a crash. If this is not your style (for philosophical or monetary reasons), be sure to inspect the old cleats very carefully or, better, have your Local Bike Shop (LBS) mechanics check'em out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One consideration when buying new cleats is float; this is how much your heels can move side-to-side without unclipping, and is designed to reduce stress on / fatigue of your knees. Look cleats come with three levels of float: none; 4.5 deg. or 9 deg. Non-Look cleats may have different float ranges. Which is best for you is a personal decision, based on riding style, experience, fitness, physical structure, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is the type of Look cleat: the &quot;old&quot; / non-Keo version (Delta?) or the Keo-version. These are not compatible, so be sure to understand which you need. If you are not sure which you have, take your old shoes with you when shopping for new cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last issue you'll have to deal with is installation; mounting the cleats is easy, but positioning can be very touchy. Here again, unless you have a lot of experience, I would recommend asking your LBS to assist in this; it may cost a little bit, but it should make your riding experience much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few resources which may help in your efforts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exustar cleats at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exustar.com/product.php?t1s=13&amp;amp;level=1&quot;&gt;http://www.exustar.com/product.php?t1s=13&amp;amp;level=1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The authorized Exustar importer in the US is QCycle (qcycle.com)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look cleats can be found on their website (lookcycle.com)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheldon Brown (the font of all cycling knowledge) on knee pain at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/pain.html#knees&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/pain.html#knees&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2045" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T11:12:14.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5069" CreationDate="2011-08-06T16:05:21.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While New York City is at the moment quite bike-friendly, potholes, cracks, and patched roads are still problems. Unfortunately, there seems to be no single resource for finding smooth roads in the city. The best you can do may be to rely on information from several sources, and use your own experience to decide on how to use the information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Google Maps Traffic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google Maps has a layer for traffic, and that shows ongoing road work. For example, this view of Manhattan has icons for road closures due to construction and other maintenance work to bridges and tunnels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?q=New+York,+NY&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ll=40.781581,-73.924942&amp;amp;spn=0.299999,0.617294&amp;amp;sll=37.0625,-95.677068&amp;amp;sspn=40.052282,79.013672&amp;amp;z=11&amp;amp;layer=t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UGYaE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Google Maps traffic layer, view of Manhattan&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this won't tell you what areas simply have bad pavement, avoiding these areas will at the least help matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NYC Bike Map&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The impressive &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nyc.gov/html/dot/html/bicyclists/bikemaps.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NYC Bike Map&lt;/a&gt; will help keep you to areas that are more suitable for cycling. However, from experience, I can tell you that not all of these have suitable pavement for skinny tires. (For example, the East Side Greenway is shown in green, and while it's quite rideable, the surface isn't the best and the path has many corners and even a staircase. At least, this was the case a year or two ago, the last time I rode it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nyc.gov/html/dot/html/bicyclists/bikemaps.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aEZJX.png&quot; alt=&quot;NYC Bike Map sample&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The map also exists as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nycbikemaps.com/maps/nyc-bike-map/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google Maps/Google Earth layer&lt;/a&gt;, although whether it's current or not is another matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, riding the roads and learning them well is probably the best way to know where to ride. I suggest using these tools to get some information to guide where you ride until you learn the roads. You can also ask bike clubs and bike shops for further advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T16:05:21.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5317" CreationDate="2011-08-06T22:46:00.033" Score="3" ViewCount="881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have plain ol' v-brakes and I have to tighten them all the time, every three or four weeks. I've been given to understand this is not usual. I'm not sure what's wrong though -- am I hitting them too hard? Could the pads be shot already? How would I know? I usually tighten them at the wheel rather than the handlebars, could this shorten their life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike's about a year old and I ride it a couple miles a day in city traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2050" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T21:14:24.583" Title="Brakes won't stay tight" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5316" CreationDate="2011-08-06T23:15:41.320" Score="11" ViewCount="13385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a mountain bike that I occasionally ride on the road,  when I do I like to put on slick road tyres but it's a pain changing the tires each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I buy a second set of wheels what is the best approach?  Do I need to change cassette, and chain etc each time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T13:53:54.117" Title="Two wheel sets, one bike - best approach?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5311" CreationDate="2011-08-06T23:46:20.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;tighten&quot; do you mean adjust due to wear?   If the pads are wearing at such a rate, something is wrong; wheel rims worn to the point of abrasiveness, riding in extremely sandy conditions...&#xA;More likely you are generating slack in the system.  The cable may physically be slipping in the clamp on the brake itself; or there may be excessive cable length giving the impression of too much play by reason of flexing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider replacing the entire cable/housing system with higher-quality items and making sure the clamp is not slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T23:46:20.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5311" CreationDate="2011-08-06T23:47:57.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That does sound like an excessive wear rate. To improve the situation you may want to pay attention to how clean your rims are and maybe go for a different brake block compound. You could also adjust your riding style to what car drivers call 'hypermiling'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the wheels is important because dirt that builds up on the braking surface acts like an abrasive, wearing out your brakes and your rims. There are opinions on how best to clean the wheels, however, I ran out of posh bike-specific cleaning stuff a long time ago and moved onto raiding the washing powder soap. A tablet in a bowl of hot water with the brush from an old dustpan and brush is what works for me now. I then rinse off with cold water afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for brake blocks, they do wear out and they do need replacing. I prefer to use the blocks with replaceable pads as I then do not lose my setup every time I swap out the pads - the toe-in and angle are what they were when I first set them up and I don't get any surprise squeaks. The replacement pads I use at the moment are dual compound, and, living in the UK I go for the Aztec branded ones. These may not be available where you are, just get the most common brand stocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you over-rely on the back brake then that can wear down quickly. Try to use the front brake more than the back, obviously not always, but it does wear less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, make sure the brakes are not pointlessly rubbing whilst you are going along. They don't actually wear that much if they are, but check your brake setup, there are tips on that elsewhere on this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T23:47:57.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5312" CreationDate="2011-08-06T23:57:22.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you have the same sizes of rim and the same size cassette, swapping back and forth shouldn't be any problem. The down side of this is mostly that it costs more money than just swapping tires out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also: I don't know how much experience you have in swapping out tires, but keep in mind before you spring for the extra set of rims that it gets easier and quicker each time you do it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T23:57:22.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5312" CreationDate="2011-08-06T23:58:06.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are running V-brakes then you will need to make sure your second set of wheels have the same rim width as your existing set. Otherwise the brakes may not line up properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your complete shopping list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke Protector (highly optional!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rim tape x 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubes x 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyres x 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When swapping the wheels over the gears should not need re-adjusting each time. You can also go for a different range, e.g. smaller closer ratio more suited to the commute. Your existing wide-ratio chain length should work fine. Depending on the level of wear of the chain you may want to get one of those too. You can check how far the chain has 'stretched' by putting it on the outer chainring and then pulling it at the point nearest the front. If this pulls forward 5mm or more then it is worn. This is a rule of thumb, you can get the posh tool for measuring chain wear or measure it with a ruler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other main benefit of two wheel sets is that you can service one set properly without being bereft of your bike. Not many people do it for mountain bikes, road bike owners tend to do this more in practice. The crucial thing to get right is the rim width, if your bike is a recent model then you can sometimes get replacement wheels from that bike manufacturer rather than have to get something specifically built up. Obviously if you are running disks then any wheels will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T23:58:06.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5311" CreationDate="2011-08-07T02:30:07.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to figure out what's getting loose.  There are essentially 3 possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brake pads are wearing down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An adjustment -- either the twist adjustment, the cable clamp, or the pad itself -- is slipping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cable is &quot;stretching&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pads are wearing that rapidly, it may be poor quality pads, or you may have some roughness on your rims.  It's also possible that your brakes are dragging all the time, due to improper setup or slightly &quot;tacoed&quot; wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an adjustment is slipping, you may just need to tighten a clamp tighter, or you may, eg, have an adjuster where the &quot;bumps&quot; that are supposed to hold it in place have worn down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a cable is &quot;stretching&quot; it's usually because the cable is breaking, strand by strand, and is in dire need of replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T02:30:07.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2011-08-07T02:49:06.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the stem was chosen by the manufacturer, it's  required torque as printed on the stem should be within the ability of the fork steerer to support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stem says,&quot;Max Torque 10Nm&quot; as opposed to just &quot;10Nm&quot; then start with a lower setting around 6Nm and work up slowly until the stem clamp will not slip on the steerer. If only the number is printed, it must be exactly that number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a good idea to check the torque compatibility of parts purchased for your bike. If you buy a stem that requires 12Nm, but your handlebar won't support more than 10Nm, you are destined for trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, 6-8Nm is enough for that purpose. You can lower the required torque by adding a carbon friction compound, sometimes called carbon grease. It increases the friction between the steerer and the stem clamp and will therefore require less clamping force to stay solid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you've dealt with this issue long since, but in this case 10Nm would be correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T02:49:06.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5598" CreationDate="2011-08-07T06:50:19.287" Score="18" ViewCount="16975" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a real difference between riding on ceramic bearings and riding on stainless steel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you measure it? Does it require it to be every bearing in the drive train, or will each set of bearings replaced improve performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have real world experience with them to relate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it matters on the bike, but I saw this today. If this is an indication of the difference in the level of friction resistance ceramic offers, then I'm in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left pulley shown is Shimano DuraAce, the middle one is Campagnolo Record 11 speed. All three pulleys are fixed to 5Nm of torque at the axle bolt. And all 3 three have at least 1mm of play at the pivot, so there is no extra tension on the bearings compared to normal install in a derailleur. There is a difference in movement of about 18 seconds of spin in the video. It's crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/r9EiX1RZDik?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-16T03:20:27.213" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T08:41:35.497" Title="Real measurable benefit to ceramic bearings?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;ceramic&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3062" CreationDate="2011-08-07T14:05:17.693" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct length of a chain is irrelevant at purchase since they all come at a set length. (Usually 114 1/2&quot; links, sometimes 120 1/2&quot; links). In special cases, like tandems and recumbents, you may need to join 2 chains to have enough length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sizing a chain to length for a particular bike is a set process. It does vary a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of an IGH bike, which for this purpose is essentially a single speed, set the rear wheel in the dropouts of your frame, leaving the axle nuts or quick release loose, with the wheel all the way forward in the dropout. (Bikes with concentric bottom brackets should be in the most relaxed position available.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrap the uncut chain around both the chainring and the rear cog. Find the place where the chain meets with no slack. Mark that link, being careful to make sure you pay attention to the outer plates, and have a set of inner plates to pin through them. Add 2 links to this marked length, to give yourself slack to adjust the chain tension, and cut the chain. Rivet the chain together using the link, pin or rivet which the brand of chain requires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailleur geared bikes use a similar method, except that you wrap the chain around the large front chainring, and the large rear cog without going through the derailleur. Adding the 2 links here gives the appropriate amount of slack for the derailleur to operate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's how you do it. There are diagrams on the rear derailleur manual pages, which I'll add when I'm not on the mobile site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T14:05:17.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-07T14:06:28.760" Score="-3" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a multi-day bike trip, and I want a list of all bike related equipment I'll need to fix / negate the most common bike problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list currently has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multi tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least 3 spare Tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else do you think I'll need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2057" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:45:35.263" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:45:35.263" Title="Equipment for a multi-day bike trip" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5321" CreationDate="2011-08-07T14:25:43.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Emergency tool/parts kit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patch kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tubes (and possibly tires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multi tool or various tools&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain links to fit your bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare derailleur hanger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare seatpost clamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare spokes in each of the up to 3 sizes you have. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;emergency food (energy bars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottles or pack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 liter every hour on the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;water filtration or purification&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shelter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tent for you (hammock, weather dependant)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cover for your bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;light and heat source (firestarters)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sunscreen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bug repellant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First Aid Kit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-08-09T15:07:52.257" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T15:07:52.257" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5321" CreationDate="2011-08-07T14:42:59.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of bike equipment, if the ride is reasonably supported (such that any major repair is either taken care of by a repair van or by hauling the bike to the nearest town) all you need is a couple of spare tubes, a pump, and maybe a multi-tool.  A box of tube patches is also nice to have, in case you have bad luck with flats.  (Though it doesn't hurt to carry spare spokes of the correct sizes, especially if your bike uses odd-sized ones.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For less well-supported rides you should have a tire &quot;boot&quot; (or a dollar bill to fold up for this use), a chain tool and a few spare links, a few wrenches beyond the multi-tool, a few zip ties, and some sort of tape (I prefer hockey tape).  Also some spare spokes (possibly 3 different sizes on your bike) and a spoke wrench, plus whatever tools you need to remove your rear cluster (though perhaps relying on a nearby farmhouse to provide the large wrench required).  Or, alternatively, you can carry one of the spoke replacement cable kits.  Spare brake and shift cables may be worthwhile (with some sort of cutter), but only if your bike has a history of &quot;eating&quot; them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a long ride out West, where it may be 50 miles between towns, you'd want a few more items, possibly including a spare tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T14:42:59.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5321" CreationDate="2011-08-07T16:12:10.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Seems that we are going a bit heavy on carrying the tools here...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise that you prepare the bike beforehand so that it is not going to be a problem on the road. That means getting it working mechanically perfect a few weeks before you go rather than the night before. Far too often a service will introduce problems, e.g. a bolt that has been put finger tight, a brake that squeaks or index gears that want to fall into the wheel. You need some riding time, e.g. on the commute, to pick up these problems before you go. Then, when you do finally go, you can give the bike a quick wash 'n' lube the day before with no adjustments needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to have a strategy for flat tyres. New Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres are worth their weight in gold because, to all intents and purposes, you are not going to get flat tyres with them. Part worn Continentals are no good as for lesser brands you might as well stick thumb tacks in them before you go. Due to the reliability of Schwalbe tyres I have not tried Panaracer, Specialized or other quality brands for several years, maybe the Specialized Armadillo range are up to Schwalbe standards, but you will have to find that out for yourself with a bit of online research. If you want to play safe then go for the Schwalbe ones - after all the UK post bikes have them and they don't carry puncture repair kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres there is no real need to carry anything more than one tube and some stick on patches. Really. Carrying anything more than that is going overboard. I would ride Death Valley with no more than the one tube just so long as I had started out with the right tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you will also need a pump. Before you depart, on the day before, check pressures with a track pump that has a gauge. Inflate to whatever it says on the sidewall. On the road you need an inexpensive mini-pump with as few moving parts as possible. Dual action, gauges and fancy handles are all well and good in principle. I have had such fancy mini-pumps only for them to fail when I need them most. They rattle apart and don't do the job. Meanwhile an affordable mini-pump is lighter and more reliable. Currently I carry the one I bought twenty years ago, it has seen off the Blackburn one with the gauge and the Specialized dual action one that I bought to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the mini tool, be realistic about what you need. Are you going to be adjusting your wheel cones? No. Are you going to be re-packing the grease in your bottom bracket? No. Are those crank arms you checked a few weeks before going to work free? No. Go over your bike and work out what spanner and hex-key sizes are needed. If only your bottle cages use 4mm then consider swapping those bolts for 5mm hex bolts, in that way you save yourself from needing the 4mm size. Think how many tyre levers that you need. Chances are that, with proper technique, you only need one, but if you do not know that then get two. If you know you have particularly tight tyres then take all three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to have to pack your bike and need to get it to fit some box then you may need to take the pedals on and off. This can be nearly impossible with a two inch long 15mm spanner, as found on multitools. However, you may be able to use your seatpin (if it is affordable alloy) as leverage. If you don't have that option you may well need to burden yourself with a full size 15 mm spanner, just for the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a brave soul that set off without a chain tool. Even though chains don't just break you are going to be toast if you cannot fix your chain if something happens to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, putting that all together, you may want to carry a Topeak Alien II multi-tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4Vd1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are pricey, but my Alien 1 has lasted for more than a decade and I still get compliments when I whip it out to fix someone's barbecue or assemble some IKEA furniture with it (I always carry it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Alien series include a spoke wrench. You can ride a long way with a broken spoke and you can also ride a long way without finding a bike shop able to sell you replacement spokes. Replacement spokes are not big sellers in bike shops, however, if you are travelling with tent etc. then you will have more load than normal and spare spokes are advised under such circumstances. As a rule of thumb, if you are travelling some distance with loads of stuff then take spare spokes. Otherwise don't bother. I would ride Lands End to John O'Groats in the UK without them but not a tour of the American South West. If you are taking them then you will need the correct lengths for the front, the back right and the back left. Typically these are all different lengths. These can be glued to the inside of your seatpost or taped to your chain-side chain-stay (to act as a chain guard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pack of 'Handy Andy' wet-wipes are useful if you do get having to get your hands dirty. They are dual use in that you can also use them to freshen up for when you meet 'civilians' and clean yourself if you have an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of which, be realistic about what you need in case of an accident. In practice I have only ever found a roll of bandage tape, track mitts and warm clothing to be useful. If you get larger wounds or other problems you really need to be phoning for a taxi or flagging down a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sun cream is also of great use, remember that tarmac reflects UV light and you can find yourself burning up on the nose and the back of you calves before you get to tea-time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your bike in an accident, the aforementioned multi-tool should have everything you need to straighten the handlebars out with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For longer trips a spot of oil is useful for the chain but even then you do find bike shops on the way and you can delay that purchase until you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is your choice as to whether you go risk adverse and carry everything or take the chances by carrying next to nothing. For me less is definitely more preferable. I learned this the expensive way, a week into my first tour, at the sight of my second really big hill, I dumped off a small fortune of clothing and bike spares into a bin. Thereafter I could travel further and faster plus I had space to amass a small library of books, postcards and other goodies that I would not have been able to carry otherwise. This was not the end of it though, further into the tour I threw out a perfectly good set of high-end front panniers and slimmed down to absolute essentials (I had a two-week rule - if I did not use it in two weeks it went).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T16:12:10.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2011-08-07T17:40:51.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The UK Highway Code say's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Look all around before moving away from the kerb, turning or&#xA;  manoeuvring, to make sure it is safe to do so. Give a clear signal to&#xA;  show other road users what you intend to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highwaycode/DG_069837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T14:57:07.577" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T14:57:07.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4094" CreationDate="2011-08-07T19:33:41.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally avoid going onto the shoulder, unless it's reasonably well paved, sufficiently wide, and otherwise suitable for riding, in which case I'll try to stay on it.  I don't get off the roadway just because cars are coming, or because I'm necessarily moving slowly.  A bicycle is a &quot;vehicle&quot; in most of the US, and entitled to use the roadway as any other vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In those situations where I may need to move from shoulder to roadway (as in when the shoulder is coming to an end) I generally try to plan it well in advance, look for a break in traffic, signal as for any lane change, and then move over when it's safe to do so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, one must always be wary of the junction between roadway and shoulder, as there is frequently an uneven joint there, so it may need to be &quot;attacked&quot; at a relatively large angle, making choosing your time to move into traffic that much more difficult.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T19:33:41.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2011-08-07T22:07:22.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My approach is to first scrape the worst of the gunk off.  Then lean the bike up against something outdoors, where the floor won't be damaged by oil stains, slide some newspaper (one or two &quot;sections&quot; of a full-sized newspaper will work) up behind the derailer and let it lay against the wheel, to protect the wheel (both brake surface and tire) from solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spray the derailer thoroughly with WD-40 (this is about the only use I have for the stuff), simultaneously scrubbing with an old toothbrush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wipe dry, allow the WD-40 to evaporate a bit, then lubricate.  I generally use whatever chain oil I'm putting on the chain, though there are probably better choices.  Over-lubricate a bit, then wipe off the excess after giving it a chance to soak in a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could remove the idler wheels, clean them separately, and then force grease into their bearings, but that's a lot of work, and I'm not convinced it's worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T22:07:22.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2011-08-08T00:22:37.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I refurbish a lot of older bikes to re-sell, and if the DR is really nasty I remove it first.&#xA;Then, I soak it down with WD-40 to loosen anything that's stuck and start working it by hand; making sure all the joints move freely.&#xA;Then... It's the Dremel (wire wheel) and the toothbrush till I get all the crud off and the stains, surface rust, and other crud off.&#xA;Finally, squirt down with regular old detergent and give it a thorough wash.&#xA;Use very hot water to rinse so it'll dry rapidly.&#xA;Finally, lube all the pivots.&#xA;If the idlers are sticky or unduly nasty, I'll disassemble the cage and idlers and clean them up separately, greasing the axles before assembling.&#xA;Lot of work, messy.  But the result is a like-new DR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T00:22:37.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5332" CreationDate="2011-08-08T02:10:03.950" Score="5" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I am considering getting a 'Mini' brand folding bike mail order, even though I have not seen one in a shop or in the street. This I am happy to do as it is a re-badged Dahon at a special price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a niche product I can understand why bike racks are not filled up with 'Mini' folders, however, I don't know why it is that all other bikes by auto manufacturers seem to completely fail in the marketplace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peugeot did really well until mountain bikes came along so it is possible for an auto manufacturer to succeed at bikes. Other than the past efforts of Peugeot the only real-world evidence in the UK of the efforts of the auto manufacturers are a few bicycle-shaped-objects from mail order catalogues with tacky 'Land Rover' decals on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not mind a Mercedes road bike and a BMW mountain bike just so I could have running jokes, e.g. casually mentioning that 'I came in to the office with the beamer today', 'I parked my Mercedes in the car-park', etc. For joke-reasons alone I would have thought bikes-by-auto-companies would have enough kudos to sell. But they don't. Why is that? Do they sell well outside the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you have not seen any bikes-by-auto-manufacturers, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/revisions/5331/1&quot;&gt;here is a small selection of them&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T00:25:59.113" Title="Why don't bikes by auto manufacturers make it into bike shops or onto the streets?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5331" CreationDate="2011-08-08T02:36:45.483" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is market forces. Most bikes done by auto makers are built as an add on to a vehicles' sport package. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are not manufactured or offered to bike shops at all. This tactic can be quite effective. Look at the VW Jetta Trek, or the Ford/Kona partnership. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that they are generally very basic bikes, offered at a much higher price than the value of the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Ford/Kona case, it was a 500 US dollar bike offered as a 3000 dollar add on with the car. &#xA;No reputable shop will do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Jetta Trek was a very similar package, but it was a $5000 add on and included a Thule rack for the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mercedes' offerings are a piss poor design, offered again at a ridiculously high price, although they at least have the excuse of a unique in house design and low production numbers to blame the price on, since they didn't just rebrand a cheap bike shop bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T02:36:45.483" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5335" CreationDate="2011-08-08T06:18:30.057" Score="2" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sister has two children, aged 4 and 2. The 4 year old is starting to get confident on his bike and my sister is finding she can't keep up with him on foot any more. She hasn't ridden since she was a kid and so isn't very confident on a bike. She will only be riding on sealed bike trails (not on road) for the foreseeable future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not convinced any of the &quot;on bike seat&quot; style of child carriers will work very well for her, because of the reduction in stability and her lack of practice/confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggested a trailer but she was wary of the extra weight and the effort required going up hills. I still think this is the best option though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other alternatives, the bigger trikes with seating built in are possibly a bit too expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is what's the best compromise of safety, cost, stability, weight and convenience for transporting kids?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T15:02:30.903" Title="What's the best way for a beginner cyclist to carry children?" Tags="&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5119" CreationDate="2011-08-08T06:47:40.880" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commuted in all weathers for about a year on a recumbent trike in the early '90s. From what I remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It was a 2 front wheel model with underseat steering. It was very stable, but the only time I did manage to come out of it was in the winter, trying to avoid a van downhill on packed snow. Being only a few inches off the ground it wasn't much of a crash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It was a blast in the snow, being rear-wheel drive you could effectively power-slide it. I don't remember ever running anything but 700x27 rear and whatever the stock front tyres were.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the wet the spray from the front tyres could get my arms wet - there was no way to mount front guards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My commute was down country lanes. I put up a flag and a strobe light to give some warning - the strobe meant that I had less trouble in the dark than the light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I seemed to get lots of punctures, and eventually realised that I had three tracks rather than one, and that in narrow dirty roads I was just more likely to run over glass or stones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That said changing a front tube was easy as I didn't have to take the wheel off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I took great pains to let car drivers know that I was wide - mounting a light and day-glo stuff on a pole out at the width of my front track.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Despite this I was once actually hit by a car on a main road - she collided with my front wheel. Apart from writing off the frame I was unharmed and stayed in the seat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I eventually changed my job, and my commute then took me on more major roads. The trike just didn't feel safe in 2 lanes of fast moving traffic, so I swapped it out for a SWB bike. This was dynamically a lot less relaxing, but played better with cars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall it was a hoot, and I heartily recommend it, but you do have some major cons as well as pros compared to a normal bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T06:47:40.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5333" CreationDate="2011-08-08T09:57:21.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option is a trailer. The pull weight is fairly low, and the safety factor is far greater than on a child seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize what is a very long discussion, the child in a seat can't protect themselves, should you crash, and there is no way for you to protect them by guaranteeing you don't crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trailer has a lower center of gravity, a more stable structure, protection from sun and rain, and a more comfortable ride. It will be heavier to pull uphill, but on sealed bike paths, that is not typically a major issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/5136/1259&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T09:57:21.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5340" CreationDate="2011-08-08T12:50:38.957" Score="8" ViewCount="3214" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bicycle was insured and locked to a leisure centre provided bicycle rack while I was in the leisure centre and was stolen by the time I came out. I was later informed that someone else had their bicycle stolen the previous week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leisure centre did not display a 'left at owner's risk' sign, 'thieves operate in this area' sign or have line-of-sight CCTV but provide both of these for car parks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the leisure centre partly liable (in UK law) for not providing reasonable security deterrents such as CCTV and 'thieves operate in this area'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-21T21:59:33.743" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T21:59:33.743" Title="Are public bicycle rack providers liable if your bicycle is stolen from their rack?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;theft&gt;&lt;parking-racks&gt;&lt;liability&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5336" CreationDate="2011-08-08T13:04:37.417" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;IANAL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly no, for the same reasons that a parking deck owner is not liable for the theft of a car inside. Unless you can prove that the bicycle rack was installed improperly due to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gross_negligence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gross negligence&lt;/a&gt;, and the improper installation allowed the bicycle to be stolen even while locked properly, you would have no case whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locking a bike properly is the owner's responsibility. To prevent your next bike from being stolen, follow this advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not use a cable lock to lock your frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the smallest U-lock that will work (the larger the U-lock, the more easily-defeated by a bottle jack).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the U-lock to lock the rear wheel to a fixed object, through your rear triangle (the one formed by the seat tube, chain stay, and seat stay). See the picture below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optionally use a second U-lock, or a cable through the first U-lock, to secure your front wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XJrt6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;proper locking technique&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry to hear about your bike being stolen. Good luck finding it (check Craigslist ads and/or eBay) or replacing it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to Sheldon Brown for the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: As an addendum, if you lock up your bike at the same location daily, you can use a much heavier &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FL04PA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chain lock&lt;/a&gt; to lock up your bike. At work, I use that lock through the rear wheel &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the rear triangle, and I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FL4YG0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cable&lt;/a&gt; that I loop through the front wheel and attach to the chain. The chain lock is prohibitively heavy to carry around regularly, but if you leave the bike at the same location frequently, you can simply leave the chain lock and cable there as a permanent fixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: My use of a chain and cable lock at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8IlR6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chain and cable lock&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2011-08-08T18:54:34.973" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T18:54:34.973" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5319" CreationDate="2011-08-08T14:01:48.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ridden ceramic BB bearings. This is my one and only experience. They seemed to take a couple rides to break-in which definitely seemed odd. One of my training partners noticed the same thing, but in his case, it was after 90 minutes that the bearings seemed to spin freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rode them for just shy of a year, which is approximately the same usage I get out of standard bearings. Based on the insane price and insignificant difference, I opted to go back to stainless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The riding partner, I mentioned earlier, is on his second set after going back to stainless. If funds permit, I am open to trying again. It was not a bad experience in anyway. Another buddy has swapped all bearings including derailleur pulley bearings and swears by it!!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all I got!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T14:01:48.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5333" CreationDate="2011-08-08T15:02:30.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK the market leading solution is the child seat - I reckon that one trailer is sold for every fifty child seats. Cost obviously is a factor in this plus the fact that trailers are a slow seller and many shops do not have the floor space for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation your sister is in is not a new one, plenty of people start cycling with their kids having not been on a bike since secondary school. Therefore I don't think it is necessary to be defeatist with the child seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The child seat, particularly the Hamax ones have suspension built in and offer a superior ride to that offered by a trailer. The view is better too. Okay there may not be UV protection and a cover from the rain but there are pros + cons to each solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A two-year old on the back of the bike is a considerable weight, however, harnessed in this is a fixed weight, it is not like riding a tandem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Hamax childseat bought off 'craigslist' or out of the local paper can be wiped down and made perfectly serviceable. If it does not work out it can be put back on 'craigslist'. Because children grow there is a healthy second hand market for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the park you could go out with your sister and the childseat and instead of having the two year old in the seat you could have an improvised 'crash test dummy', e.g. a couple of bags of shopping, e.g. a growbag or small sack of potatoes. If she can ride confidently with that weight on the back then she may feel confident enough to go out with her two year old child.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the weight at the back makes the front wheel light it will also make the steering feel easier/less twitchy. So it is definitely worth a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a trike - have you tried riding one recently? They are a nightmare because you have to steer rather than lean. I find them terrifying to be on because they feel so weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting back to the childseat, the Hamax ones come with a bracket that is easy to get a spare, pop one on your bike and you can swap the childseat from one bike to the other when those hills get a bit steep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also pop a bike with childseat onto a bike-carrier on the back of a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cannot be done so easily with the trailer option. Be open minded about the childseat, give it a go with a 'crash test dummy' and take things from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T15:02:30.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5336" CreationDate="2011-08-08T15:47:52.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel your pain. The leisure centre have no liability whatsoever or requirement to put up signs saying so. Not only that, even if the CCTV covered your bike there is little likelihood that it would be checked. In part this is because of the time that the police would have to take to go through it. Due to the Data Protection Act you would not be able to go through the tapes yourself to help them with that task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now the police seem to have a bit of a riot situation on their hands so I would not even bother to report it if the reason is to get the bike back. However, you may want to report it so that crime figures are more accurate (e.g. higher under the Tories...) And, if you do report it, expect some strange questions regarding the description. These can be woefully inadequate for actually identifying your bike. In fact you could post what they ask up here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting a bike back from the police even if it is recovered is quite an ordeal. I handed in a bike I found to them once and went in a month later to claim it under 'finder's keepers' rules. It took me five hours for some reason, but after the first hour I was just intrigued as to how long it would take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for getting a replacement, find out if you can get a bike-to-work deal through your employers. Then when insurance cough up, you can have one bike for the week and another for the weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-08-13T10:00:45.963" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T10:00:45.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4656" CreationDate="2011-08-08T16:12:38.000" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are inherently stable because of their geometry. The geometry causes the bicycle to always turn into the direction it begins to lean, which keeps it upright. The reason is best illustrated through a concept known as counter-steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counter steering is how all two wheel vehicles turn. When you want to turn towards the left, you turn the handlebars a little to the right. The friction of the wheels pulls the bottom of the bike towards the right, which initiates a lean towards the left. The handle bars then begin to swing towards the left to track through the turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's time to stop the turn, you turn the handlebars a little more to the left. That pulls the bottom of the bike further towards the left, which brings the bottom of the bike directly under the center of gravity and thus stopping the turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On many bikes and at low speeds, the counter steering effect can be unnoticed by many riders. However, at high speeds, or with heavier vehicles such as motor cycles it is more significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how does this work where there is no rider? It is because of the rake in the fork and the rail it causes. If you trace an imaginary line through the axis of your fork to the ground, it will hit the ground ahead of where the wheel contacts the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the wheel contacts the ground behind the steering axis, the wheel will always feel a force from the road trying to bring it to center, pointing straight ahead. When the bike is tipped to one side, the forces begin to push the wheel to the side that the bike is tipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all these forces add up. The rake in the fork makes the bike want to go straight forward. And when it feels a bump in one direction or the other, the counter steering will tend to bring the bike the other direction. Then the fork rake will begin pushing the front wheel further away, which will then straighten the bike out, because of the counter steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T16:12:38.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-08T22:30:19.930" Score="10" ViewCount="763" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that we appear to be about evenly divided between UK and US folks (and given that &quot;Britain and the United States are two countries divided by a common language&quot;), there should be a dictionary of regional differences in bike terms. The main differences seem to be American English and UK/AU/NZ English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/421/english-american-dictionary&quot;&gt;discussed on meta&lt;/a&gt; a bit, with some ideas there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely worth looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/784/translating-cooking-terms-between-us-uk-au-ca-nz&quot;&gt;https://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/784/translating-cooking-terms-between-us-uk-au-ca-nz&lt;/a&gt; for ideas how to format well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll make this a community wiki, please simply edit the one answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:38.350" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T15:18:02.220" Title="Dictionary of regional vocabulary differences (US vs UK)" Tags="&lt;reference&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;&lt;glossary&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-09T16:32:49.793" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5348" CreationDate="2011-08-08T23:43:12.090" Score="6" ViewCount="7887" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title states, what are the benefits of a carbon seatpost like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/BikeParts/Seats/PRD~5021-139/mec-350mm-carbon-seat-post.jsp&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/Main/home.jsp&quot;&gt;MEC&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My research indicates there may be the following pros and cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lighter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supposedly smoother ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly more prone to catastrophic failure as compared to aluminium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I'm missing or that I'm completely wrong about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="210" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T03:45:00.833" Title="What are the benefits of a carbon seatpost?" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2011-08-09T01:10:39.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to all the above: don't  mind the 'solvent'. concentrate on the brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solvent will not do magic. Trust me, simple green is the SAME as regular soap bar. Get an old tooth brush, scrub a bar of soap, scrub what you want to clean. rinse. repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get the old toothbrush there, you will have to disassemble. or use a rag. there's no way something not-extremely-toxic will do the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T01:10:39.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6873" CreationDate="2011-08-09T01:14:57.447" Score="2" ViewCount="1670" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to do a home-made sealing on my freewheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any material recommended to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone can find some previous try documented?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I fail miserably if I try to source a sealed component with the same diameter and reuse the seal? What exactly is the seal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a little of background: After fixing my freewheel, it does not spin with grease. So I used chain lube. It works, but for a little more than 2 weeks only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 1:&lt;/strong&gt; more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The focus of the question is: &lt;strong&gt;wheel hubs and other parts with MUCH&#xA;  more stress are sealed alright. Why freewheels can't?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 5 speed Shimano freewheel. I was considering replacing it with a 6 speed since my shifter and RD works fine with it. but looking at the options, i refuse to give money to freewheel manufacturers! It's all crappy. even the high end models. Also, the gears are like new yet. bearings has no imperfections. it's just a matter of lubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I did open and serviced that freewheel (didn't take pics as I did it overnight alone and was aiming for speed so i could get some sleep).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I greased the hell out of it and closed. It spinned as bad as when it was dry and dirty (it has 12yr)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I reopened, cleaned it all again with 90% oil. Applied just enough grease to barely hold the bearings in place for assembly (an invisible film) and right after closing it up again dropped a bunch of 20w-50 engine oil and a bunch of chain-L oil (the snake oil of bike chain lube.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's spinning like new. but after 2-3 weeks, i often get one or another small chain drag when backspinning the pedal very slowly. No issue at all, but a sign that it's not perfectly lubed again. and will only get worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tip&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gears are not worn but the freewheel does not spin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let if lay down with the freewheel cogs on top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a spanner tool to remove the cap on the freewheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drop oil in there&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;close it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it's pretty easy to oil the freewheel. and all bike shops I ask about sealed freewheel and freewheel maintenance say that, 1. there's no sealed model. 2. you HAVE to do this oiling twice a year. 3. There are no consensus to which kind of oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="279" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T17:01:23.937" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T01:29:07.893" Title="Home-made sealed freewheel?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5344" CreationDate="2011-08-09T01:57:20.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find it hard to imagine you could get a carbon seat post catastrophically fail.  (I say that as someone who has broken a Titanium seat rail, a Ti frame in three places, and a Ti stem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally on a very stiff frame, (like Aluminum) getting a carbon front fork, carbon seat post can help absorb some of the harshness of the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T01:57:20.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5344" CreationDate="2011-08-09T04:32:53.533" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you've hit the high points yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefits (and issues) will vary by post model, manufacturer, and design. Carbon fiber is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; versatile material engineering wise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Storck makes 2 carbon posts, which are externally identical. But one is a comfort post, which focuses solely on smoothing out your ride, and the other focuses on being light and stiff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there were issues with catastrophic failures, especially in early models, carbon component design is no longer in its infancy, and you are extremely unlikely to have failure issues if you choose your components and ride in a manner appropriate to the style of bike you own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T04:32:53.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3155" CreationDate="2011-08-09T05:52:13.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An old shallow cooking tray full of petrol. Disassemble the derailleur, put all the parts in the petrol as you go. Pick them up one by one and scrub with an old toothbrush until clean, put each clean part on a paper towel to drain/evaporate. Then pick up each part and rub it with a dry paper towel before putting it down on a clean surface. Finally reassemble with correct lubrication - which is different for different areas of different parts. You probably want two or three basic lubricants like chain oil, light machine oil and a lightweight grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't smoke while you do this, or use litres of petrol at once. Do it outdoors and don't be leaning right over the tray breathing fumes. I find ordinary petrol a lot easier on the hands than any of the citrus-smelling solvents which do tend to strip all the oils out of your hands. A super-aggressive solvent isn't necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is disassembly! You cannot get these small complicated units really clean without it. Squirting stuff into friction points, soaking or whatever else does not always flush grit, old grease or grime out it can just drive it further in. Not to mention your increased understanding of how the thing works when it comes time to adjust, assess wear or evaluate a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T05:52:13.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5351" CreationDate="2011-08-09T06:08:30.087" Score="7" ViewCount="5351" Body="&lt;p&gt;At work we have hooks attached to the wall so that we can hang our bikes from the front wheel. They're effectively the same as these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nR4tH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bike racks&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see heaps of people struggling to lift their bikes onto the rack, getting dirty and greasy because they're having to kind of 'hug' the bike to lift it up high enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a neat trick for lifting my bike on to the rack which I'll post shortly, but I wanted to hear from the community if anyone has any tips or tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T01:23:35.247" Title="What's the best way to lift a bike onto a storage hook?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5350" CreationDate="2011-08-09T06:18:09.587" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trick is to use the strength in your legs plus leverage to lift the bike. It is so simple I can hang my bike up one handed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock both front and rear brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walk backwards, resulting in the bike being vertical in front of you, with you standing behind it holding the handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feathering the rear brake, manoeuvre the bike in location below the hook. The seat should be just in front of your knee or lower thigh&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put one knee/thigh on the seat and flex that leg at the hip, raising your knee. This lifts your bike vertically with almost no effort required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place it on the hook and you're done!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've shown this technique to a number of people who have been instantly impressed with how effortless it is. It feels a bit weird the first time but very quickly feels natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T06:18:09.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5344" CreationDate="2011-08-09T07:06:02.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; had one fail, but it was on a second-hand bike and I've no idea what its provenance was. It was sudden, but not catastrophic - I was riding down a 5 mile hill and felt the saddle start to wobble. When I stopped I found the post had cracked in a spiral up its length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ride home out of the saddle was hard work, but I'd be far less worried about failure in a seatpost than forks or bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T07:06:02.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-09T08:04:56.360" Score="3" ViewCount="1057" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5350/whats-the-best-way-to-lift-a-bike-onto-a-storage-hook&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; about the best way to lift a bike on to a pictured rack, it struck me that I'd be less worried about how to lift the bike than the potential for damage by hanging the bike from its front wheel's rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many racks involve putting the rim into a trough or groove, or something like this attached to a wall: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6pijN.png&quot; alt=&quot;butterfly wall mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely the danger from being struck from the side and bending the rim is quite large? For this reason I try to avoid any rack that I have to put my bike &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; rather than against or on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the concensus seems to be that &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5336/are-public-bicycle-rack-providers-liable-if-your-bicycle-is-stolen-from-them&quot;&gt;public rack owners might not be liable for theft&lt;/a&gt;, might they be liable for contributory negligence if a bike is damaged directly as a design flaw in the rack? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:26:09.083" Title="Can racks cause damage to a bike?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;parking&gt;&lt;parking-racks&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5353" CreationDate="2011-08-09T08:42:56.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a lawyer, but it looks to me that it would be a big no. It is your decision to put it in the rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in any case, they are actually pretty good - they are the most common type and I have never had one cause any damage in 35 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2011-08-09T13:31:47.223" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T13:31:47.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2011-08-09T10:00:16.030" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixed gear bikes can be very silent. All you hear is the tire on the road. I don't think you can get that with any other type of bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2078" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T10:00:16.030" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5346" CreationDate="2011-08-09T10:00:33.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multi-speed freewheels do not work if packed with grease. To assemble it so that it works trouble free you will need a space cleaner than an integrated circuit factory as even the smallest speck of dirt can ruin the job. Because you have to use oil rather than grease there is no way (with many models) to put the balls in place whilst you assemble it. Maybe consider booking a flight on whatever replaces the Space Shuttle so that you can do it it zero gravity. That will probably work out easiest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for adding an after-market seal, the slightest bit of drag, i.e. that introduced by the seal, will cause the freewheel to not spin freely and you will end up with your chain wrapped around your tyre and chainstay the minute you ease off the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have got a single-speed freewheel then the outlook is a bit more optimistic. You can clean it out and put it together again using oil instead of grease. If you don't over-tension the pre-load for it then it should work fine to give many years of trouble free operation. If you are on multi-speed though, just give up. Admit to being merely mortal. Bow to those Japanese factory workers and feel humbled by their engineering genius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T10:00:33.390" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5350" CreationDate="2011-08-09T11:03:46.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bungie the front wheel to the frame, so it stays straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T11:03:46.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5353" CreationDate="2011-08-09T11:08:41.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen lot of damage wheels from racks like this, the probem is they are are often fitted too close, so when someone take there bike out, they have to fight with yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also no good way to lock the bike to the rack with most locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T11:08:41.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5350" CreationDate="2011-08-09T11:49:11.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some bike shops there are bikes stored this way and very closely packed. In helping a customer choose a bike it can be necessary to lift bikes up and down onto wheel hooks with nothing scratched and no evidence of effort made (they don't want to buy a heavy bike). Space can also be limited so there is no way to have a 'run up'. There also might be a forest of bikes on the ground so you cannot move forward to support the weight of an bike 'at arms length'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the best way (UK instructions) is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand on the left hand side of the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold the handlebars and apply both brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift and pull back the handlebars to get the bike on the back wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put right hand on seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift bike up and put front wheel onto the hook&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whilst navigating the wheel onto the hook, stick one leg out rearwards to counter-balance the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carefully lower rear wheel onto the wall making sure no cables get snagged on neighbouring bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick with all lifting tasks is speed, to use momentum rather than brute strength. Ideally you want to do the above in an all-in-one smooth motion. Any delay and you can find your arms 'trembling' under the weight of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T11:49:11.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5361" CreationDate="2011-08-09T11:55:15.493" Score="5" ViewCount="4054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3902/what-is-the-biggest-component-difference-between-a-cheap-road-bike-and-an-expensi&quot;&gt;difference between a cheap and expensive road bike&lt;/a&gt; as I have owned one of each. My question relates to an example of two polar-opposite folding bicycles; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycles4u.com/20-6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a budget £129 bike&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/brompton/m3l-2011-folding-bike-ec026411&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;£759.99 Brompton&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the £630.99 price difference a result of better components or is the Brompton brand the justification? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a minimum price that needs to be paid to ensure that a folding bicycle doesn't contain budget components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T15:20:05.477" Title="Does the price difference between a Brompton and a budget folding bicycle represent quality" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;price&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5360" CreationDate="2011-08-09T12:37:45.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brompton is certainly a well known name in the bike industry. As such, I have faith in their ability to produce a quality folder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The £129.99 bike uses a design which is sub-optimal for a folder, since a single failure point has the option for the bike to collapse into the folded or partly folded position. Which is not to say it will fail, only that it could, and there does not appear to be a safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the components on the bike appear to be the very basic type whih I would expect to see on a kid's bike, as far as quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brompton may not have high end parts on this machine, but they appear to be at least ridable quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether the difference is worth it, is a personal decision, but I would not consider the £129.99 bike safe to ride for me or mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T12:37:45.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5360" CreationDate="2011-08-09T13:13:39.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took up a job needing a 25 mile bike ride plus Intercity 125 train journey at peak commuter hours into London. I came from a trade background where I handled many folding bike sales. So I knew what I was looking for from having tested and demonstrated almost all of them with the exception of the real budget efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I settled on the most basic of aluminium framed Dahon models even though I could have bought a posh one. There was a trade-off between flexibility and features. The dynamo hub, hub gear and other features were not what I needed, they also came with a weight penalty and complicated the fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why it had to be Dahon for me was the patents. The hinges and other folder specific parts are patented and Dahon have the best portfolio of patents. They make plenty of bikes for other people, e.g. Ridgeback, however, those tend to be last year's models, e.g. without the handlebar post that is reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The supposed Rolls Royce 'Brompton' bikes are not a patch on the basic Dahon models. The two plastic wheels either side of the seat post catch on people's calves leaving marks grubbier than what you can get with a chain. Then there is the way that rear 'suspension' works, the bike is basically un-hinged. The catches are all made of heavy steel and require a lot of fiddling, on the Dahon bikes the designs for these parts are a lot smarter, easier on the eye and lighter. The clip on the left-hand side of the front wheel is also prone to breaking. As for be wheel size, smaller is not better, particularly if you want tyre choice. As for those ridiculous pedals I think Heath Robinson designed them. Ergonomics on a Brompton have a lot to be desired and why don't they come with a useful selection of gears? For the life of me I do not know why they are considered preferable by those that ride them, it is almost like the Cult of Apple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brompton bikes are expensive in part because they are made in Great Britain where wages are higher than in China, Macau, Taiwan or wherever else Dahon make their bikes. But are they really higher? I have seen adverts for jobs at the Brompton factor and they are barely over minimum wage. You cannot work there and have mortgage, family and a holiday every year. Meanwhile, the workers in the Dahon factory do not have ridiculous housing costs that Londoner's have to pay for, they get paid a competetive wage for their area, not minimum wage + a pittance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big-headed attitude that is the Brompton brand is a turn off for me, plus the religious zeal of the fanbois. The product is not as good as they claim it to be, the scarcity value due to them not having a big enough factory makes people think they are more desirable than they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, the Dahon models are more like bikes that are designed first and foremost as bikes but have the added benefit of folding. The patents are top notch. The ergonomics work for anyone over 5'2&quot; and under 6'3&quot;. As for the seatpost, it is alloy, works without fail on maximum extension and has a pump inside. Oh, and a clamp that you don't have to faff with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the other brands at the cheaper end of the market, they don't have the special Dahon patents either. They are me-too products that are not researched or developed properly. You might as well get a thirty year old small-wheel shopping bike instead of any of today's budget folders - at least the chrome will be better quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way of looking at it is to take a car analogy. The Dahon is like the quality Honda models (see that anagram), the budget models are like a Chinese clone of a 10 year old Kia Pride and the Bromptons are like a practically impractical Caterham 7 (without the speed and handling). The Honda might not have the cult following of the Caterham but it gets you from A to B and you have a choice of models to choose from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T13:13:39.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5343" CreationDate="2011-08-09T16:38:23.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think we can safely ignore trivial spelling differences like tire/tyre and curb/kerb, and concentrate on differences in terminology that tend to confuse people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Roads and surfaces&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: pavement: concrete or any hard surface used for vehicles or pedestrians. Suggest using &amp;quot;road&amp;quot; instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK: pavement: a walkway for pedestrians, especially a sidewalk. Suggest using &amp;quot;walkway&amp;quot; instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK: tarmac: road surface, same as US asphalt. (In full, tarmacadam (itself short for tar-bound macadam) but asphalt (bitumen) has replaced tar as a binder.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: asphalt: road surface, especially a tar-binder concrete&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: cement: commonly mis-used in US to mean concrete, especially for structures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Components&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK: block, US/rest of world: Cassette, though this is becoming rare.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK: &amp;quot;mech&amp;quot; short for mechanism, US/Europe/ROW: Derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US/CA: fenders: Devices that fit over the wheels to keep things from splashing onto the rider or the bike, called &amp;quot;mudguards&amp;quot; in the UK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK: mudguards: fenders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US/CA: Crankset / UK: Chainset (though crankset is also used in the UK)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK: Seat Pin (but &amp;quot;seat post&amp;quot; is normal UK usage) / US/CA: Seat Post&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short form for Campagnolo (an Italian component manufacturer); US: Campy, UK: Campag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tools&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US/CA: Wrench / UK: Spanner -- grabs the outside of a bolt head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.apexhandtools.com/brands/CF_Files/model_detail.cfm?upc=037103463036&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crescent wrench&lt;/a&gt; -- Crescent is a branch name, known for adjustable wrench/spanners, but not in the UK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK Mole grips/Mole wrench / US &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-tools/the-original-curved-jaw-locking-pliers-with-wire-cutter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vise-Grips&lt;/a&gt; -- Locking pliers (brand names which are used generically, but not across US/UK)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: Channellocks -- Channellock is a brand best known for their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.channellock.com/category.aspx?zcid=118&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;multi-position slip-joint pliers&lt;/a&gt;.  Always plural:  &amp;quot;Pass me the Channellocks.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: &lt;a href=&quot;http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c3/Allen_keys.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hex Wrench / Hex Key / Allen Wrench&lt;/a&gt; / UK/CA: Allen Key -- a hexagonal tool inserted into a bolt head, often L-shaped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK: track pump / US: floor pump -- In the US, &amp;quot;track pump&amp;quot; is usually only used for a specific style of pump seen at a track, while in the UK it's commonly used to refer to any kind of floor pump.  In Canada both are commonly used, although floor pump may be more familiar to those new to cycling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Clothing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US/CA: Spandex = UK: Lycra -- They're different brand-names for the same fibre (elastane)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: wind vest or vest / UK: gilet (said &amp;quot;jee-lay&amp;quot;)  These are generally armless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Accessories&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: water bottle / UK: bidon (said &amp;quot;bee-don&amp;quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US/CA: public transit / UK: public transport. Suggest using &amp;quot;public transportation&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US/CA: Yield / UK: Give Way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US/CA: Flat / UK: Puncture -- In the US &amp;quot;puncture&amp;quot; refers only to tire/tube damage from piercing, such as a nail. In the UK &amp;quot;puncture&amp;quot; is also used for pinch flats, valve failures, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T15:18:02.220" CommentCount="12" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-09T16:38:23.093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-09T19:36:53.250" Score="26" ViewCount="8715" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend, let's call him Jack, does not know how to ride a bicycle. Jack is a fully capable 27-year-old man. His father was incarcerated during a block of his upbringing, leaving him without a skill that many of us (his friends) take for granted. In a related note, he didn't learn how to tie his shoes until he was 11. TMI, but true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried once to teach him how to ride. Several years ago I piled sporting protection on his body - football shoulder pads, catchers shinguards, rollerblade elbow pads - and guided him down a gently sloping hill. He glided successfully for 50 yards and hopped running off the bike into a soft grass lawn, thinking he'd figured it all out. The second time he got on the seat he pedaled head over handlebars into a fire hydrant. There was no third ride that day and there hasn't been since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But he wants it. I've Googled &quot;adult training wheels.&quot; I've found a set that costs more than $200. This is unreasonably expensive. The embarrassment of using training wheels is not a problem for him. Being unable to ride a bike is embarrassing enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are training wheels the way to go for a guy like Jack? How else might I help him ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1835" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T00:48:37.210" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T00:48:45.233" Title="How can I teach my capable 20-something friend to ride a bike?" Tags="&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2011-08-09T19:48:44.113" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to be insensitive, but I think you are over-thinking it just a little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say start with an open, grassy field - for me this would be the public park a few blocks from my house, but I don't know where you live. And ditch all of the protective gear save for a regular bicycle helmet. All of that padding is just going to make your friend more nervous, not to mention restrict his movement. Falling at low speeds on grass is not likely to cause major injury. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that he jumped off the bike on attempt #1 instead of properly stopping himself with the brakes suggests that he doesn't know how to operate the brakes, he's not confident enough that squeezing the brakes will stop him (it will), or some combination of the two. Crashing into the hydrant on attempt #2 suggests the same, as well as maybe don't ride in a place with so many obstacles nearby. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it's stopping and starting (mounting and dismounting) that are going to be the hard part, so work on starting and stopping on the grass until he's got that down. Don't let him move to the road until he can properly mount, pedal for a few revolutions, and bring the bike to a safe stop using the brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T19:48:44.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2011-08-09T19:56:41.573" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/teachride.html#undersized&quot;&gt;undersized bike method&lt;/a&gt; as Sheldon Brown recommends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, get a bike that's a bit on the small side (and has at least one brake lever) and remove the pedals (and maybe also the cranks), so that he can have his butt on the saddle (seat) and both feet firmly on the ground with knees slightly bent.  That way he can run with the bike under him.  You might be able to get a bike with a compact frame design (sloping top tube) and set the seat really low instead of having to actually start with an undersized bike. Starting out on a grassy surface would be a good idea, but a stretch of clear unoccupied pavement/asphalt (such as a parking lot) would work quite well, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first he'll just use his legs and slowly get a feel for how the bike moves and balances, but as he goes faster he should be able to pull his feet up from the ground for a longer and longer time.  When he's comfortable with how a bike balances (able to coast and steer without keeping feet on the ground), put the pedals back on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might a good idea to have him wearing a helmet and gloves, and maybe also kneepads, but only if they don't make him more nervous.  That way if there's any problems it might be less traumatic and more likely that he feels okay getting right back onto the bike. Any other protective gear would be overkill, you tend to catch yourself on your hands or hit your knees when you fall off of a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After he's got the balance right, even with the pedals on, probably good to move to teaching a proper mount and dismount so that you can set the seat at the proper height.  On a cruiser or dutch style bike you can probably get away with keeping your feet on the ground when the bike is stopped, but in general you should mount by grabbing the brakes, putting one pedal at a 45º angle forward and up, using the pedal to step up to get onto the seat (and to get your other foot onto the other pedal), and almost simultaneously release the brakes so that the bike starts to move forward.  Dismount similarly (with brakes engaged and using one of the pedals to step off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a longer list of skills he'll need to learn before riding safely on roads, but balance, steering, mounting and dismounting is a really good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through all this, he needs to keep patient.  The simple reality is that it takes a while because you're trying to train your body into modifying its reflexes a little (so that you steer into a fall to keep from falling to the side).  If you try to think your way through balancing on a bike you'll fall over a lot because thinking is too slow, you need to retrain reflexes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T17:15:46.840" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T17:15:46.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5311" CreationDate="2011-08-09T21:14:24.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the other answers cover the main points very well, but I wanted to mention that brakes can wear that quickly--especially in hilly environments and/or if you're carrying loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commuter is typically pretty well loaded, and my job is on top of a big hill.  These aspects combine for fast wear, and I normally adjust my brakes about as frequently as you say.  I just replaced a set with ~800 miles on them whereas my road bike (which I ride on highways without stop and go traffic, and carries very little aside from myself) hasn't had to have the cable adjusted in several hundred miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T21:14:24.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2011-08-09T21:30:41.900" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, I'd go with the undersized bike, or at least lower the seat all the way.  Maybe remove the pedals.  He doesn't have to be flat-footed on the ground, but should be able to push reasonably well while seated.  Get him comfortable (on a smooth level surface like a parking lot) with pushing along and balancing, steering, braking, and coming to a stop.  Once he's halfway good at it, run along behind him, pushing, to give him more speed and distance.  Then add in pedaling after he's comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to protective gear, a helmet for sure, just to establish the habit, but don't overemphasize the other stuff.  Knee pads, eg, would be apt to get in the way and just make matters worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Training wheels are not a good idea, even for a kid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, see if you can find the Fraiser episode where Fraiser and Niles learn to ride a bike.  Then tell him to do the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T21:30:41.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5360" CreationDate="2011-08-09T22:59:11.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always thought that there are some in the middle like: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xootr.com/folding-bicycle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Xootr Swift&lt;/a&gt; that fall in between the Brompton/Friday/Airnimal and the Dahons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Height also makes a difference.  If you're over 5'10&quot; 180cm some of the smaller folders can be a bit flimsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2090" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T22:59:11.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5370" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-10T00:28:11.403" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T00:28:11.403" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T00:28:11.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5371" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-10T00:28:11.403" Score="0" Body="Training rides, training for rides, preparing for training rides, equipment for training, and training routines. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:25:45.807" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:25:45.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5372" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-10T00:30:04.460" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T00:30:04.460" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T00:30:04.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5373" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-10T00:30:04.460" Score="0" Body="The things you push your feet against to make the bike go. Pedaling technique, and other stuff related to pedals. Clips and clipless pedals." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:27:37.367" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:27:37.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5374" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-10T00:31:22.773" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T00:31:22.773" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T00:31:22.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5375" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-10T00:31:22.773" Score="0" Body="Chain lube, oil, wax, grease, and other slippery stuff for bike components and frames. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T00:31:22.773" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T00:31:22.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5376" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-10T01:07:13.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;General tag for bikes with some mechanism to make them smaller for easier storage at home/work, or as part of a multi-modal commute where you ride to a bus station, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch of unique quirks to each brand, so if your folding bike is one of the larger leaders like [brompton] [tern] [dahon] [bike-friday] then use that tag as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T02:33:26.607" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T02:33:26.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5377" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-10T01:07:13.070" Score="0" Body="Questions about bikes that are designed to fold or collapse for ease of storage." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T02:33:26.607" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T02:33:26.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5350" CreationDate="2011-08-10T01:23:35.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a long chain and park it normally on the floor with the kick stand :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T01:23:35.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2011-08-10T01:54:40.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No protection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a large empty space without distractions, like a parking lot after closing time. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have the bike seat low enough that he can put both feet on the ground. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the bike around without using the pedals; coast; stop by squeezing the brakes gently. Repeat this, gradually adding speed, to develop a feel for balancing and stopping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There will be a point at which it becomes logical and comfortable to add pedaling to the mix. Do so then.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing for him as a 27-year-old is to be patient. If he gets too wrapped up in the idea that he should be able to pick it up right away, it'll just take longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="498" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T01:54:40.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-10T05:40:10.360" Score="18" ViewCount="5208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am completely new to the concept of belt drives and, when doing some initial research, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belt-driven_bicycle&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on belt-driven bikes&lt;/a&gt; says that they have the disadvantage of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Problems in snowy conditions (up to complete inoperability in some&#xA;  cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had any experience with snowy commutes on a belt-driven bike supporting or refuting this claim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T09:49:40.020" Title="How do belt drives perform with snow?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;weather&gt;&lt;belt-drive&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5380" CreationDate="2011-08-10T10:40:02.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never ridden one but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/whycds.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carbon Drive Systems website&lt;/a&gt; states that: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The patented sprokets contain Mud ports that shed even the worst type of debris. Not even snow or mud will slow you down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T10:40:02.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5380" CreationDate="2011-08-10T11:12:57.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, since the sprockets are so wide, and the belt lacks holes, snow/mud that gets between sprocket and belt will be packed into the notches and could build up if conditions are right.  This could build up to where it locks the belt (or damages it, if the rider tries to force the thing), in the worst case.  In any case, it's not going to make pedaling any easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just reading where truck off-roaders have a lot of trouble with mud in their serpentine belts, in some cases damaging the belt or the bearings of the generator or idler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No experience with bicycle belt drive, though, in any conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do notice, in the belt tension thread, that the front sprocket has large holes in it and, one would expect, would not have much trouble with snow/mud buildup.  The rear sprocket (in the image presented) is not seen well enough to say if it has holes in it, but it looks like not -- at least not as big as the front.  Other bikes may be different, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T16:09:44.353" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T16:09:44.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-10T12:50:48.433" Score="7" ViewCount="12588" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized Hardrock 2011 Disc brake mountain bike with a front brake that squeals when used lightly.  It's OK if I use the brake hard - but I usually don't need or want to stop in such a hurry!  I have been using the rear brake more for light braking, which is something that I don't like to do because the front brake is best for this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been like this pretty much  since the day I got it, so I initially put it down to needing running in.  It has got a bit better with time and a few hundred miles, but not much - I try not to brake and instead carry the momentum of the bike where I can for increased efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look into adjusting to stop disks squealing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2096" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T00:35:03.823" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T00:35:03.823" Title="Specialized Hardrock - How to stop disc brakes from squealing?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5282" CreationDate="2011-08-10T13:45:25.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest... I would debate the efficacy of the pads. Given the nature of crashes (both road and mountain) I doubt they would really offer that much protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for no longer being sold... probably just went out of fashion. Price vs performance, advent of full suspension frames, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1859" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T13:45:25.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5384" CreationDate="2011-08-10T13:49:10.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always, check with you local trusted bike shop...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, is there any issues with the brake pad and disc? In other words, assuming no trapped grit, is either warped in ay way, has a burr, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's been happening since day one my guess would be some minor maladjustment in shape of the brake pad or disc. Or just the mix of materials causes squeaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But again check with your local bike shop mechanic to see if they have any ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1859" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T13:49:10.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5384" CreationDate="2011-08-10T14:16:48.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience disc break squeal is typically a result of excessive vibration caused by one of three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contamination - Brake disc and pads should only be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol.  Give them a thorough wipe down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor adjustment/loose components - Try looking at the manufacturers web site for adjustment and torque specifications.  Installing and adjusting brakes is one place where a torque wrench can be helpful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower end brake components - A lot of lower end disc brake sets have variations in the pads and rotors that just naturally encourage a squeal.  Sometimes as they wear it will diminish, but often you are stuck with the sound unless you want to fork out the money to upgrade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that especially in case 2 and 3 you will see the behavior you describe where the squeal is worse when the brakes are applied lightly.  As you apply more force you remove the ability of the involved parts to vibrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T14:16:48.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5353" CreationDate="2011-08-10T14:28:45.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In almost all cases the owner/provider of a rack is not liable for damage or theft occurring while your bike is parked at the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this type of rack, which I don't like but sometimes have to use, I will almost always back my bike in and attach the rear wheel.  I think this has the following advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have the rear triangle structure surrounding the wheel which is more secure to lock to and may protect the wheel from some types of damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your handlebars are now 'out front' making it easier for someone else to park their bike front-wheel in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T14:28:45.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5389" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:22:45.810" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:22:45.810" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:22:45.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5390" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:22:45.810" Score="0" Body="Bicycle frame construction, selection, maintenance, and repair. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:22:45.810" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:22:45.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5391" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:24:15.763" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:24:15.763" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:24:15.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5392" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:24:15.763" Score="0" Body="Deprecated tag, do not use. Consider &quot;parts&quot;, &quot;accessories&quot;, &quot;tools&quot; or &quot;bike-selection&quot; instead." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:56:00.313" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:56:00.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5393" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:27:34.057" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:27:34.057" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:27:34.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5394" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:27:34.057" Score="0" Body="Use for racks that are installed on your bike. For the sort of rack that you park your bike in, please use the PARKING tag. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:27:34.057" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:27:34.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5395" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:28:51.933" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:28:51.933" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:28:51.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5396" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:28:51.933" Score="0" Body="Questions about parking your bike, in public places or at home. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:28:51.933" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:28:51.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5397" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:31:05.363" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:31:05.363" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:31:05.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5398" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:31:05.363" Score="0" Body="Use for parking racks that you use to lock your bike to. For the sort of rack that you install on your bike to carry tuff, please use the RACK tag (or the CARGO tag for questions specifically about carrying stuff). " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T15:31:05.363" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:31:05.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2011-08-10T15:56:30.117" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't treat the 27 year old any differently than a kid learning to ride a bike.  I recently taught my 6 year old son how to ride a bike.  We tried the smaller bike and removing the pedals but that just didn't work out so well.  The bottom line is that everyone is different and the key is to find what will work for your friend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I did made a big difference for my son was that I put on some rollerblades so that I could &quot;stand&quot; behind the bike and assist with starting and stopping.  I would hold on to the seat as he was getting started, after a few pedals there was enough momentum to not have to intervene so much and when it came time to stop I was still right behind the seat ready to steady and offer reminders or instructions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being on rollerblades made a huge difference, I could assist where needed and talk where needed and there was that reassurance that there's someone there if something goes wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2027" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T15:56:30.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1552" CreationDate="2011-08-10T16:13:25.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flFxl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy an electronic key finder. Attach the keyring part to your bike, when you want to find your bike you press the button on the remote and the keyring beeps and flashes. Range is 40 meters which should easily be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T16:13:25.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2011-08-10T19:44:47.083" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixed gear riding will help you develop a steady and consistent cadence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T19:44:47.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1246" CreationDate="2011-08-10T21:28:05.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This particular EBB has two set screws which press into the EBB cups and prevent them from rotating. Due to the gear ratio that I'm running and the pressure I'm applying my EBB is slightly rotating which then causes the screws to scrape metal off part of the EBB cups. The resulting metal fragments find their way into the EBB chamber and are what result in the creaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix as someone jokingly made once was to get a new frame and ditch the EBB. I think I've come around to their way of thinking. As it is now I have to remove and clean the EBB once every 1-2 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW I tried all the other alternatives with no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="250" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T21:28:05.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5282" CreationDate="2011-08-10T21:54:25.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;talking out of my &lt;em&gt;*&lt;/em&gt;*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone wants to show their bike brand. and since it's mostly on the top tube nowadays, no one uses them anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, fashion changed. And since this only has marginal benefits, it was ditched (hats had more practical benefits and suffered the same fate when fashion changed). A long time ago fabric was in. see older cadilacs with textile or leather roofs (even though they do not open). today fashion is about sleak materials. see mac products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have one on my bike. It's worthless for crashes, but helps keeping the paint when i lock the bike on the street! I can just lock the bike to anything with it rested against the improvised-street-locking-place via it's top tube and i'm done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T21:54:25.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2011-08-11T00:41:15.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode all winter last year in northern Indiana/southern Michigan. My bike is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fixed-gear_bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fixed-gear&lt;/a&gt; and I notice that the fixed-ness allowed me to control my acceleration and feel the road better, thereby eliminating nearly all slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2103" LastEditorUserId="2103" LastEditDate="2011-12-23T16:16:49.700" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T16:16:49.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2011-08-11T14:06:20.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of good suggestions above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fenders&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll echo that you definitely need fenders. I recommend them for any commuting bike for any season simply because you'll be miserable riding on wet roads without them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lights&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, nice bright lights are vital. All the really good modern ones are now LED-based. I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003RZ94MU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;planet bike super flash&lt;/a&gt; for the rear and a good quality front light like something from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.princetontec.com/index.php?q=product-overview-page-use-biking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;princeton tec&lt;/a&gt;. Lights are not needed to see the road in urban areas but mainly to alert drivers. I find that dawn and dusk are the times when you MOST need lighting, during those times the streetscape lacks contrast and that's when drivers are likely to miss details (like an oncoming cyclist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dealing with Corrosion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Northeast you'll have to deal with the accumulation of dirt and &lt;strong&gt;salt&lt;/strong&gt; onto your bike. You'll want to get into the habit of wiping/cleaning/lubing the bike more frequently than in the warmer months (not just the chain, but all parts of the bike). Good idea to lube all bearings before the winter and again in the spring (if you're doing serious miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T14:06:20.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2011-08-11T14:54:53.453" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple kinds of &quot;fixed gear&quot; bikes, each appropriate for different purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Track bike&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Intended for the velodrome. Horizontal rear-facing drop-outs, no quick release on wheels, no brakes, drop bars for most events, 1/8 chain, gear-inches no less than 81&quot; (48x16) and as high as 100+, riders frequently change cogs/chainrings during workouts. Geometry is steeper than road bikes and handling is twitchy, tires no wider than 25mm. Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/fixed-gear/super-pista-frameset/&quot;&gt;Bianchi Super-Pista&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Street fixed gear&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Intended for riding/training on street surfaces. Horizontal drop outs, front brake, drop-bars or bullhorns or flat bars, gear-inches typically lower. Geometry like a road bike, accommodation for tires wider than 25mm. Typically has a flip-flop hub with a freewheel on one side. Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.surlybikes.com/bikes/steamroller_complete/&quot;&gt;Surly Steamroller&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fixed Trick bike&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Intended for doing stunts that involve pedaling backwards, walls, ramps, hops and other wild stuff. Lots of back-pedalling. Geometry like a big BMX bike, very low gear-inches. Example: see &lt;a href=&quot;http://prollyisnotprobably.com/&quot;&gt;prolly is not probably&lt;/a&gt; blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conversion fixie&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Road bike frame that has been converted. You can tell because the drop outs are not rear-facing. Everything else same as &quot;street&quot; fixed gear. This is a good way to experiment with fixed gear if you don't want to shell out $700-$1000 for a dedicated bike. You're not going to be allowed to race one of these on the velodrome because of the drop outs. Examples: See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/&quot;&gt;fixed gear gallery&lt;/a&gt; blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T14:54:53.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5411" CreationDate="2011-08-11T17:56:15.780" Score="20" ViewCount="91955" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may not be a particularly practical question, but I wonder how often do you find yourself looking for a new (or another) bike? There are, of course, two main aspects of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical decay. If you drive a car, you know to lube it every 3000 miles, rotate tires every 7500 miles, flush the fluids every 30000 miles. If you are reasonably serious about riding a bike, you'd place yourself at wherever you are comfortable in terms of maintenance from being unable to adjust your saddle height to re-assembling your own spokes and hubs, but you'd do some maintenance, anyway. Most components would have reasonably well-defined span they will serve, and would probably start falling apart after this many miles, even with reasonable maintenance and repair. What would the range in time and/or miles be for commuter bikes? road bikes? mountain bikes? Or are the modern bikes of say $1000 and upwards basically perpetual, unless you ride one heads-on into a concrete wall?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Needs change: you outgrow your bike, your riding pattern changes, you switch from group rides to triathlon, you move to a new area, you hand down your bike to your younger sibling, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a gut feeling that the latter is far more likely to happen than having the bike used up to its full mechanical resource. Any opinions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2108" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T08:55:12.577" LastActivityDate="2019-12-22T09:20:17.993" Title="How long is the life cycle of a bicycle?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5409" CreationDate="2011-08-11T20:19:15.917" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's try to steer this into some kind of sensible question with the perspective as seen from a typical bicycle shop workshop and what is on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a bike workshop you can find yourself working on bikes that can be up to fifty years old with a large quantity of them being more than ten years old. Some of these bikes have not been out of the garden shed for the last five years and have suddenly came into use because the owner's son or daughter has started riding.  Therefore this question very much depends on how often the bike gets an airing, how it is stored and how much it gets maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the person using their bike every day for commuting, the lifetime of the bike is an economic question. After five years or so, even with brake block changes, new cables, maybe the odd new set of sprockets, new tyres, replacement chains and plenty of t-l-c, the bike will suffer all-over wear that costs almost as much as a new bike to put right. Wheel rims will wear through, saddles will get torn,  bits of 'Shimano plastic' will go missing and the whole drive-train will get worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixing these problems will typically necessitate another round of consumables, e.g. chain, cables, brake blocks and tyres. All of these are more expensive as spares that you have to put time into fixing or pay a shop to fix. Meanwhile, at OEM prices, pre-fitted to a new bike, a better deal can be found. The existing bike has 'depreciated' to become a liability much like how an old car does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the cars people drive you will notice that there are not too many 'Ford Cortina' models on the road. (UK) There are not too many 'Ford Sierra' models on the road either. Yet, there was a time when every other car was one of these models. There are one or two of these left and you do see them once in a blue moon, so clearly it was possible to service them and keep them on the roads forever. However, that did not happen for 99.9% of these once popular Ford cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now have a look for what people actually ride. There is a reasonable selection of twenty year old models on the roads used by people on the commute or taking the dog for a walk. However, depending on where you live, the majority of bikes are recent, i.e. less than ten years old. Half of those are very new, less than three years old. Most of these 'daily riders' are well on their way to being used up as a 'mechanical resource'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your point 2), in the UK many bikes get abandoned by their riders when they take up driving. Before people get to that age they do go through a series of bikes that they grow out of. Competitive riders are different again, typically they have a fleet of bicycles and a ludicrous amount of spare parts left over from upgrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarise, a bike will have a lifetime of approximately five everyday-riding years before it gets shot to pieces. This lifetime can be extended indefinitely through new components and diligent maintenance (or instantly shortened in the case of a crash). In reality people can ride bikes long after the bike is past its best, they can also put the bike into storage for long periods of time and they can also get into the sport (to purchase many bikes that don't necessarily get worn out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T20:19:15.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5444" CreationDate="2011-08-12T00:02:52.757" Score="6" ViewCount="2544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into the different kind of locks available, and came upon this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6AdugFzCi24&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;short documentary&lt;/a&gt; about bike thefts in London. Seems that just about any lock on the market can be easily beaten by a large enough set of bolt cutters. So I was trying to think of a better system, and I thought of something: Why not have locks that are built into the bike itself? Something that locks out the drive train in some way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that in the majority of thefts, the thieves are riding away on the bike. From about 10 minutes of pondering the question, it seems like a small hole could be placed in the crank axle without compromising the strength too much, and then you could incorporate the locking mechanism into the down tube. When the bike is locked, the cranks can no longer turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching on the internet yielded no results for locks that lock the drive train of the bike. Is it just an unworkable idea, or has nobody thought of it until now?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would still have to lock the bike to a rack to ensure that someone doesn't just carry it away or put it on the back of a truck.  But it would make the bike that much less of a target if the thief knew that such a system was in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T01:19:41.243" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T21:39:42.090" Title="Are there any locking options that lock the drive train of a bicycle?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;design&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5413" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T01:21:16.777" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T01:21:16.777" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T01:21:16.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5414" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T01:21:16.777" Score="0" Body="Locking your bike and keeping it safe, especially from being stolen." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:33:43.367" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:33:43.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5409" CreationDate="2011-08-12T01:46:57.003" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well maintained, there is no reason a bike can't essentially last forever. We have perfectly rideable bikes from the dawn of cycling; High-wheelers and such that are still in excellent mechanical shape.&#xA;Most everything on a bike can be replaced save for the frame; even parts that are so obsolescent as to be unobtainable can be reproduced if you want to spend enough money; bikes are not overly complex machines.&#xA;I am currently riding a vintage 1972 Cilo/Swiss roadster.  Brakes and shifters and such are all original, Shimano 600 and Wienemann.  The Wheels have been replaced, the bottom bracket rebuilt, etc.  However the frame is in excellent shape and there's no reason the bike shouldn't last another 50 years... I won't...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, with cheaper bikes that receive little maintenance, it simply becomes financially unfeasible to repair them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T01:46:57.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5412" CreationDate="2011-08-12T01:52:19.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_lock#Wheel_lock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wheel locks&lt;/a&gt; are an implementation of this idea. They simply prevent the rear wheel from turning, which is effectively the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, any thief with large enough bolt cutters will be able to effectively sidestep the problem without hassle. But worse than that, the odds of your bike being stolen while being immobilized like this are &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; orders of magnitude higher than locking your bike to something with a U-lock. Any thief can merely pick up the bike and run off with it (which is more doable than you'd think) or toss it into the bed of a pickup and be gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's simply what it comes down to. Locking the drivetrain doesn't provide any additional mechanism that a prepared thief wouldn't already be able to work around, and, while better than leaving your bike totally unlocked, is still far less safe than a U-lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T01:52:19.203" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5423" CreationDate="2011-08-12T01:54:43.103" Score="34" ViewCount="145804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to tell if my tires are correctly inflated, in this case road tires, but I do not have a pressure gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a handy heuristic for checking the pressure? Could I do it, for example, by trying to squeeze the tire between two fingers and seeing how easily it gives? (I can do that anyway, but it wouldn't give me any idea about the pressure level.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1527" LastActivityDate="2020-09-20T05:06:15.060" Title="How can I check tire pressure without a pressure gauge?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5417" CreationDate="2011-08-12T02:19:25.143" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best &quot;heuristic&quot; is to observe the rear tire under full weight conditions.  It should deform noticeably, but not to an extreme.  Deformation should be roughly 10-20% of tire height from ground to rim edge -- less deformation for road conditions, more for off-road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1373" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T16:12:17.313" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T16:12:17.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5417" CreationDate="2011-08-12T02:30:18.360" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lean most of your weight onto the seat or handlebars (depending on which wheel you're trying to check) and watch how much the tire bulges. Do this on a road-like surface, not dirt or carpet. Generally the tire should bulge out a little next to the contact patch, but not much. Try bouncing your weight, no matter how vigorously you bounce the tire shouldn't get close to bottoming out. There should be at least a little bulging, especially when you bounce hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works better, of course, if you've used a gauge with those tires before and know how much bulging to expect with proper inflation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's just too hard to judge with your fingers. Odds are good that a little under inflated and correct inflation both feel almost rock hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T02:30:18.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5417" CreationDate="2011-08-12T04:41:58.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use a hand pump and know it well, you can get a rough gauge from how much the resistance increases as you pump.  I find that gets me within 10-15 PSI when checking later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T04:41:58.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5417" CreationDate="2011-08-12T08:15:14.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get a pressure gauge.&lt;/strong&gt; They're not expensive (I had &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004CSBVAO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one of these cheap plasticky ones&lt;/a&gt; as a kid. Not the easiest to use without losing air, and no good for racing tyre pressures, but served me fine for many years. These days I use a pump with a built-in gauge.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heuristics are unreliable, especially if you're not already used to how your tyres look and feel at the correct pressure. Inflating your tyres sufficiently is key for reducing punctures and decreasing rolling resistance, while overinflating them will give a harsh ride and could eventually be dangerous. Why take the risk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T08:15:14.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5436" CreationDate="2011-08-12T11:47:56.557" Score="3" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;The average car has the manufacturer's logo on the front and back. Usually that's the extent of the branding. It is discreet and under-stated. Sometimes with the higher-end luxury cars you don't even get the model name and engine size given on the boot. A 'less is more' approach seems to work for cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now take a look at a race or rally car. You get stickers everywhere to let you know who supplied the tyres, brakes, headlights, oil, petrol and other parts, e.g. what the hi-fi would be if they had one. Invariably these are sponsors logos, paid to be on the car. Sometimes boy-racer wannabees have similar sticker collections on their cars but they are rare exceptions, most cars keep the branding simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for the interiors, the parts do not have huge supplier names plastered all over them. There are occasional exceptions, 'GTI' models with 'Recaro' seats, forty-year old Porsche cars with 'VDO' dials and that is about the extent of it.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now take a look at your average bicycle. Why is it a rash of tacky logos? Why does every component with the exception of a few generic parts on low-end bikes have to be disfigured by the make with model? This is particularly tedious with the big brands that get their own parts made for them. Why cannot Trek just have their logo on the frame and keep it clean? Why do they have to litter the entire 'finishing kit' with 'Bontrager' logos? It is not as if the average Trek buyer really needs to be reassured that they have 'Bontrager' stickered handlebars every time they look down to change gear. The after market for 'Bontrager' handlebars isn't exactly huge either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why is it that bikes have to be covered with childish logos everywhere? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T09:56:30.500" Title="Why are cycle components so heavily branded?" Tags="&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2011-08-13T20:49:00.387" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5417" CreationDate="2011-08-12T12:13:57.337" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have got correctly inflated tyres then you do not know what you are missing. No rule of thumb can make up for this. Tyre inflation is really important and your best bet is to get a track pump with valve to check your tyres with. Do this every fortnight, leave it to every month if your journey times are not important to you. I cannot stress enough the importance of getting a track pump, however, that is not what you asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several answers here have mentioned that you should take a peek at how much your tyres splay when you are riding the bike. This is definitely a useful check, however you must bear in mind that a correctly inflated tyre is not a solid tyre and it will bulge out sideways anyway. Only when drastically under-inflated will it show an easily discernible extra bulge. But do watch for that, particularly if you go over a bump and the bike 'thuds' more than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the ride-through-the-puddle test. Go through a puddle and onto a dry surface, e.g. a pavement or a hallway. If you look at how much water has been left behind you can get a comparative idea of how much of your tyre is in contact with the road. If you know what you expect and if the trail is thicker than that, e.g. with a lot more than the centre ridge making contact, then you may want to get the track pump out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Returning to the weight-on-the-wheel and how much the tyres splay idea, you can also roll your bike slowly over a kerb and see how much it deforms. At speed it will do so more than under the static situation, so try it slowly and there should be no danger to your rims and 'snake-biting' your tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for squeezing the tyre after inflating it as best as I can with a mini-pump, when I get to the track pump with gauge I am always surprised at how many tens of P.S.I. I was off the mark. Squeezing the tyre is a waste of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had car-type valves (which you don't) then you could get those valve caps that some car-part shops sell. These go red when you lose 5-10 P.S.I. They are good but not available in Presta to my knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I find the best gauge to be how the bike feels and how fast it goes. On some parts of my commute I like to go quicker than the 20 m.p.h. speed limit (as cars cannot over take me then), however, there are times when I am not able to hit my expected speeds, as measured on the bike speedometer. With a bit of extra air in the tyres I can usually get back to where I expect to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T12:13:57.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5417" CreationDate="2011-08-12T12:59:00.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to have a pump with a pressure gauge. Just top off the tire pressure on each tire before each ride. You can then squeeze the tire and over time get a feel for what is the right pressure for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;right pressure&quot; depends on your weight and what type of tire you're dealing with, and your preferences. And the only way to determine this is to ride your tires at different pressures and see what feels right. It is somewhat subjective. I DO NOT think that 2-3 psi makes much difference, and I know that some people will vehemently disagree with this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking (to give you a starting point for experimentation): If you're a &quot;clydesdale&quot; (over 200lbs), you'll want to be above the recommended pressure that is printed on the tire. If you're fairly lightweight the recommended pressure is a good starting point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to try is to run your front tire at a lower pressure than the rear. This will dampen the road shock to your hands. Again, how much lower is dependent on experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people have more rigid rules and heuristics than me but if I had to pick one set of rules I'd choose &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/pick_a_tire_chart&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; from rivendell, they describe what type of tire and tire pressure is appropriate depending on rider+bike+usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T12:59:00.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5409" CreationDate="2011-08-12T13:46:47.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So long as the frame isn't exposed to the elements or damaged/abused, it will last forever.  But other components -- chains, bearings, sprockets, brake components -- wear out eventually.  Virtually all components in a newer bike can be replaced for a more or less &quot;reasonable&quot; price, but bike manufacturers like to change paradigms every 15 years or so, and finding spare parts for a bike that is 2-3 paradigms removed from the current is often challenging at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at some point it becomes too expensive/impractical to maintain a bike that is regularly used (unless you have access to other old bikes to scavenge).  (Bikes with light use don't really wear out, other than the tires need replacing every 10 years or so.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T13:46:47.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5426" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T16:34:26.803" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T16:34:26.803" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T16:34:26.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5427" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T16:34:26.803" Score="0" Body="Gears in the drivetrain of a bike." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:28:06.260" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:28:06.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5428" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T16:36:02.190" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T16:36:02.190" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T16:36:02.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5429" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T16:36:02.190" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for questions that will be useful as references, or for questions about reference material. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T16:36:02.190" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T16:36:02.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5430" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T16:37:00.170" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T16:37:00.170" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T16:37:00.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5431" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T16:37:00.170" Score="0" Body="Building a bike starting with a frame and adding components to it. If you're starting with tubes that's &quot;framebuilding&quot;." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:50:52.687" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:50:52.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5432" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T16:38:05.373" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T16:38:05.373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T16:38:05.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5433" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T16:38:05.373" Score="0" Body="Frames or components made from carbon fiber, possibly even about carbon accessories. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:21:19.633" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:21:19.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5409" CreationDate="2011-08-12T20:15:26.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A racing bike will usually meet its fate in a crash. Most other bikes just die of neglect-- something wears out, user loses interest, things rust and/or get horribly out of fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about how to keep a bike running for a VERY long time, that is possible if it is maintained meticulously (or not ridden). All parts can be easily replaced on almost all types of bikes. If not, then with some work contemporary parts can be retrofitted. The best resource in the world for this stuff is the late &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's comprehensive website&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the replaceable stuff, it basically comes down to the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steel&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;titanium&lt;/strong&gt; are going to be the most durable and they're repairable by someone with the right tools (for brazing lugs or tig welding). Rust will nail you on steel frames if the frame is exposed to harsh weather without a thorough clean-up afterwards. If you start getting rust it has to be dealt with or else it will get worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aluminum&lt;/strong&gt; is less durable and more susceptible to fatigue cracks through years of use, tubing is thinner and more easily buckles (once something buckles, most people won't want to ride it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carbon&lt;/strong&gt; frames just aren't repairable AFAIK and they're usually crashed terminally in a race anyway. I don't see many carbon bikes from 15+ years ago. This could change in the future, but I doubt it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T20:15:26.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5417" CreationDate="2011-08-13T03:56:19.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can indeed check by hand, however you will only be accurate if you practice it often and cross-check with a tire gauge whenever possible.  Realistically you should always use a tire gauge if possible--however knowing how to check by hand is a good backup when changing a flat, or when away from home and in need of a quick check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, &lt;strong&gt;buy a gauge&lt;/strong&gt;!  A good digital presta/schrader gauge can be bought online for roughly $25 US.  Digital gauges are more consistenly accurate, however a less expensive analog gauge is still much better than guessing by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, once you have a gauge, use it after every long ride on your road bike--or at least weekly (road tires lose pressure quickly, so daily is better yet).  But!  Before putting your fancy new gauge on, give your tire a squeeze and push the tip of your thumb into the side of the tire.  Make a guess if the tires are &quot;ok&quot;, &quot;low&quot; or &quot;really low&quot;.  Follow up with your gauge, add air if needed, then repeat the squeeze to see how they should feel at pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T03:56:19.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5422" CreationDate="2011-08-13T09:56:30.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Up until the mid-to-late-eighties bicycles were not heavily branded. Frames bore the manufacturer's badge on the front, had the manufacturer's name on the frame and had the model name on the frame. Components did bear their manufacturer's respective names, however, these were just stamped on. You could read them if you wanted to. In rare exceptions these secondary brandings were anodized on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then a company called Shimano came along with the innovations that were to define the mountain bike in a groupset - indexed gears, cantilever brakes and so on. None of these parts were branded as before, with a simple stamp into the alloy/steel. Alloy parts had big anodized logos, plastic covered gear levers had stickers on them carrying the Shimano name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The success of the 'Deore XT' groupset led to the introduction lower down in the market of Shimano's 'Exage' groupset. This had even more plastic parts and lots of 'Shimano Exage' branding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano brought in practices that today are deemed to be 'anti-competetive'. They made bike manufacturers wanting to use their superior indexed gears also use whole Shimano groupsets. They were not able to mix and match components until SRAM came along with their 'GripShift' rival to index gears. SRAM took Shimano to court and thereafter got a foot hold in the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until the SRAM challenge, almost every bike at a given price point had identical components from Shimano. High end bikes had 'Deore XT', lesser models had various 'Exage' parts. Due to how good indexed gears were from Shimano the competition practically did not exist. The Yen was low at the time and European brands could not compete on price, even if they could make a half-decent set of indexed gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With every bike being practically identical mechanically, how was a bike manufacturer to command a premium for their products? One way was to go for a better finishing kit (seat, handlebars, grips etc.) Brands such as 'Syncros' came along to offer better handlebars and they adopted the big sticker branding pioneered by Shimano rather than go for the subtle stamp of yesteryear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thereafter the die was cast. Even though today bikes don't have to be identikit Shimano, they have the rash of stickers pioneered way back in the days of the mountain bike boom years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T09:56:30.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5331" CreationDate="2011-08-13T10:49:43.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a branding issue. Generally, it's a bad idea to dilute the brand image. Cars manufacturers like Mercedes don't want to weaken the brand image of their product by selling a bike. Even Lexus are careful not to associate their cars with Toyota although that's what they are. On the other hand, riding a Hummer bicycle is about as absurd as driving a Hummer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2124" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T10:49:43.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5331" CreationDate="2011-08-13T15:54:17.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, these &quot;branded&quot; bikes are just someone else's bike that the car company (or soft-drink company or beer company) paid to have their logo on.&#xA;Essentially, an advertising gimmick.&#xA;We can imagine that the corporation had nothing to do with the design or specifications of the bike other than where and how the logo will appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T15:54:17.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5440" CreationDate="2011-08-13T19:55:14.150" Score="7" ViewCount="9183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished a charity ride and found that the brand new jersey bought for it has a hole in the back center pocket.  It is neatly cut, with stitching around it to prevent fraying, so I'm sure it is a feature rather than a defect.  What is the intended purpose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-13T20:05:12.083" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T17:50:17.830" Title="Why is there a stitched hole in the back pocket of my new jersey?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5439" CreationDate="2011-08-13T19:57:05.357" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;My best guess is the hole would allow a headphone cable to run down the collar, through the inside of the shirt, and into the pocket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T19:57:05.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5439" CreationDate="2011-08-14T01:50:02.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to guess the garmet manufacturer puts the hole there so that when you wash the jersey (which hopefully you do occasionaly), water doesn't pool in the pocket but instead drains out the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't really explain why it's only in the center pocket and not the side ones ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T01:50:02.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5412" CreationDate="2011-08-14T07:19:04.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Raleigh fitted a steering lock to many of their bikes up until the 1970's:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOKMw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Raleigh Steering Lock&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have got a bike with one but I would not use it without a secondary lock to a fixed object. Neither would I use what you are looking for, and for the same reasons! It is a solution looking for a problem that is not practical in the real world. You don't want someone taking you bike away so they can strip it for parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the Raleigh people could have put their immobiliser on the bottom bracket if they wanted to, or even in the hub gears. The advantage of the steering lock is that a thief on a bike with locked steering is likely to crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T07:19:04.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5449" CreationDate="2011-08-14T10:11:31.373" Score="7" ViewCount="1931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Wrench Force floor pump.  There is a lever on the head of the floor pump which can be moved into one of two positions.  What is this for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pump automatically selects the correct valve and there is a separate button near the pressure guage to release pressure so it is for neither of those functions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="99" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:45:10.100" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:45:10.100" Title="What is the lever on the head of my floor pump for?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5462" CreationDate="2011-08-14T10:22:45.823" Score="11" ViewCount="1281" Body="&lt;p&gt;See also this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2188/what-should-i-look-for-in-a-trailer-bike-tag-along-bike-for-a-child&quot;&gt;What should I look for in a &amp;quot;trailer bike&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;tag-along&amp;quot; bike for a child?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a bicycle.  I will want to use a child seat for a few years, and then move to a trailer.  I will be using the bike in a small UK town in light, orderly, traffic, to travel a few miles (At most 5 miles per journey.) on mostly level ground.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What features should I look for when buying the bike?  What features would be useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What features are less useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2131" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T16:03:45.583" Title="What features are useful on a bike for carrying children?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5445" CreationDate="2011-08-14T10:45:16.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's to make the head fit the valve snugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2131" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T10:45:16.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5446" CreationDate="2011-08-14T12:06:24.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend that you take a look at getting an Electra Townie bike. They use what they call 'flat foot technology', which is where you can put your feet down on the ground easily and without having to hop off the saddle or balance the bike on a tip-toe. They achieve this by putting the bars higher, the pedals further forward and the seat back. This works well in flat terrain but is not so good out of the saddle going up e.g. Cotswold hills. But you aren't going to be doing that with a childseat on the back, so have a look into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether you are male or female, a step through frame is a very good idea when carrying a child seat. Step-thru frames are definitely not just for girls, the benefit is getting on or off and not having to swing a leg over the front or the back of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carrying stuff with a bike that has a child on the back is not that simple, you don't want a rucksack and panniers are not going to happen. A basket is what you want, ideally one that is bolted to the frame and not the handlebars. In that way the steering is not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight doesn't make any difference to a bike if you are loading it up with a heavy child on the back. Riding is a momentum thing. Take a look at the Kona Africabike - this has three speeds, possibly a back-pedal brake, 'Northroad' style handlebars, chunky bullet-proof tyres, step-through frame, basket correctly mounted on the front, a rack on the back and a built in lock that should be enough for a two-minute stop to get a pint of milk. The Africabike scheme is definitely something you will want to be part of - for every two bikes sold in the West one is donated to some doctor/midwife person in Africa. The older ones are made of steel and very heavy, plus they have a rack that is too wide for a child seat. The newer 2011 ones in white are alloy with a narrow rack that does take a child seat. The rack is a lot more solid than regular racks as it is part of the frame. This will impact your choice of child-seat, you may want to go for a Hamax one as they have built in suspension. There is also a sturdy kick-stand on the Africabike, useful for when loading up the bike and not having that many hands free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5E0zH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the back-pedal brake, it is very useful if you have a dog on a lead with you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to go retro. A 1950's Raleigh 3-Speed will have most of the benefits of the 'expensive' Electra bikes. There are still plenty of them to be had in good condition, complete with mudguards and hub dynamo. These have the relaxed riding position and are incredibly stable compared to today's 'twitchy' bikes. The bottom bracket is lower, the seat typically has big and comfy springs in it and the handlebars are the wrap-around 'Northroad' sort. You can easily put your foot down when stopped and not have to get off the seat. Ladies versions are around although they do flex more than the gent's versions. So long as you have got the childseat on the back, ladies frame is what you want and it doesn't look silly if you are not a lady.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to check out what the Dutch and Danish cyclists use to ferry their kids about with if those pointers don't bear fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T12:06:24.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5445" CreationDate="2011-08-14T12:21:26.217" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You press the chuck onto the valve, then pull the lever up to lock the chuck to the valve.  Otherwise pressure could blow the chuck off on higher pressure tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T12:21:26.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5452" CreationDate="2011-08-14T15:21:19.100" Score="4" ViewCount="5428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have side-pull (dual-pivot) cantilever brakes. My friend gave me brake pads that are 'for all linear-pull brakes'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use brake pads that are advertised for linear-pull brake systems with my side-pull cantilever brake system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2125" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T13:52:30.120" Title="Can I use brake pads designed for linear-pull brakes on my side-pull cantilever brakes?" Tags="&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5453" CreationDate="2011-08-14T16:56:01.953" Score="10" ViewCount="45939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in buying some pedals I can clip into for my bike. I currently ride a mountain bike/hybrid but I ma looking to get a road bike next year some time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between road pedals and mountain bike pedals? Are road pedals suitable for my hybrid/MTB if I am only riding on roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2132" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-14T22:41:17.407" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T11:36:36.707" Title="Difference between road pedals and MTB pedals" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5450" CreationDate="2011-08-14T16:57:04.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Linear pull brake blocks come with a stack of washers designed to provide toe-in (a gap at the back of the brake block to reduce squeal) and different thickness washers to get the cantilever arm vertical to the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side pull brakes have none of that, just a simple washer for the outside surface of the brake arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the linear pull brakes in to your side-pull brakes with the whole washer stack on the outside, tighten it up and you should be good to go. You can experiment with putting the extra washers in for that toe in or omit the concave/convex toe-in washers entirely. But do use at least one washer on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure that when you have tightened them up that you cannot twist the brake block around with your hand and that the brake blocks meet parallel with the rim neither touching the tyre or falling off the bottom of the rim. Test before you go down any big hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T14:55:00.000" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T14:55:00.000" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5451" CreationDate="2011-08-14T17:15:30.080" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are differences of opinion regarding what you are asking here. Some people are insistent that a road bike has to have proper road pedals, others think that for non-competitive riding over short distances the mountain bike style pedal is just fine, so long as you don't go all day in them and expect to win the Tour de France in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the difference in shoes first. Road shoes have a huge cleat on the bottom of them that makes them not suitable for walking in off the bike. Meanwhile, mountain bike cleats are embedded in the sole and you can walk all day in shoes with them, just so long as you avoid polished wood floors that don't need to be scratched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling shoes have an upper and a sole. If you look at the market leading Sidi shoes the same uppers are available on both the mountain and the road versions. The soles are also remarkably similar, or at least the upper part of the sole. They have different rubber attached to the sole and different holes in them for the respective cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the different soles, with more rubber on the mountain variant, the best option for town riding is to get the mountain shoe. This is because you can ride them quite easily without being fully clipped in. With road soles this is not so easy to do, particularly in the wet, as you have to clip in properly before putting in any power strokes to get across that junction. They are also one-sided so you need to be adept to get into them. By contrast, you don't have to clip in with mountain bike pedals at all (if using Time Atac) and the cleat is always there for you as they have the cleat on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For where you are now, consider getting the mountain shoes, they have the same uppers and stiffness to the sole, if you pay for it (e.g. Sidi). You can also get more pliant shoes such as the Shimano affordable models that are stiff but not super-stiff. These can also be more presentable off-bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that whatever pedal system you use the pedal, big or small still attaches to the same size hole in the chainset. Shoe stiffness with glass fibre or carbon fibre is huge so the platform size is not the be-all-and-end-all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another choice to be made with the actual pedals. Shimano are the market leader with their SPD system, this has been earned not because it is a better pedal system. The other pedal system to look at is the Time 'Atac' range. This uses a smarter spring system that allows your feet to 'float' a lot more naturally. The 'Atac' pedal system is patent protected, the designer was the guy that designed the original road 'Look' pedal cleat system and I think it has a lot more going for it than the clunkier Shimano efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a good look online for opinions regarding pedal choice/reliability and remember that most people defend their pedal system choice less than objectively. Generally shops will only stock the Shimano pedals or the 'Crank Bros' pedals and people that buy these will swear they have the best system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-08-14T17:42:14.783" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T17:42:14.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5451" CreationDate="2011-08-14T18:05:59.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 on mathews comprehensive answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are definitely more shoe options if you go with &quot;mountain type&quot; systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a &quot;competition grade&quot; mountain shoe with a very rigid sole (like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-apparel/2011-sidi-dominator-5-shoes-5360.146.0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sidi dominator&lt;/a&gt;) will give you the benefits of a road system with the versatility of mountain stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would seriously have trouble believing anyone who said that good rigid mountain shoes with a mountain pedals could put a road rider at any kind of disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T18:05:59.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5499" CreationDate="2011-08-14T18:12:32.627" Score="7" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I like to make rather high-speed descents (during which I also make jumps) in the forest near to my house. I want to know how this kind of activity is correctly called. Is it downhill, freeride, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="554" LastEditorUserId="554" LastEditDate="2011-08-14T18:29:58.403" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T18:36:53.930" Title="How is this kind of cycling correctly called?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5319" CreationDate="2011-08-14T19:06:27.763" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have the source at hand, but from what I've read, converting your wheel bearings to ceramic will net you something like a 1 W savings at racing speeds, thanks to reduced mechanical losses. A ceramic bottom bracket would result in less improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the rider is putting out 200+ W at racing speed, the savings are clearly minor. Additional savings may accrue from the much lighter wallet the rider is carrying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T19:06:27.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5451" CreationDate="2011-08-14T20:19:40.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can ride all day with, say, Shimano SPD mountain pedals and medium-priced compatible shoes.  It is true, though, that, towards the end of that day, you will experience some discomfort from the narrow pedal and the way it effectively traps your foot in the shoe (leading to a &quot;hot foot&quot; sensation), vs the wider platform of a road pedal.  Probably stiffer shoes will moderate this somewhat, but at the expense of being less &quot;walkable&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, for me &quot;mountain&quot; pedals are the way to go - inexpensive, double-sided (easy to clip into), walkable shoes, et al.  But I'm nowhere near a competitive rider, and have no desire to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T20:19:40.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5455" CreationDate="2011-08-14T21:15:14.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;North Shore!!!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yep, there is a name for it and in the UK (and presumably Canada) it is known as 'North Shore'. This is a shorthand for British Columbia riding style on trails exactly as you describe. Even the bike manufacturers have cottoned onto the trend, plus the editors of Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;North Shore bikes are much like freeride bikes in their geometry and downhill bikes in their component makeup. Because north shore stunts have evolved to not only include simple and complex bridges but also large drops and high-speed descents through a series of stunts north shore bikes commonly have as much travel as downhill and freeride bikes, however with much more nimble and maneuverable frame designs, and often lighter weight.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountain_bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mountain_bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you know the magic YouTube search term, find some good videos to post here for the enjoyment of the stackexchange masses. Good luck with the trail building and, at the risk of sounding like your mother, don't forget your helmet and body armour!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-08-14T21:31:59.607" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T21:31:59.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5461" CreationDate="2011-08-15T04:32:44.677" Score="12" ViewCount="56513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting together a bicycle &lt;em&gt;on a budget&lt;/em&gt; from a frame I was given and various parts from a bike with a broken frame. The only part of any expense that I really need is the fork, and I want to get this via an auction (likely Yahoo auction Japan). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame itself is a women's Scott Tacana. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5JVq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not necessarily looking for shocks, I really just want something cheap that fits. Are there different diameters, tube lengths etc, that I need to be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2124" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:44:36.713" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T14:34:37.657" Title="How do I choose a bicycle fork?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5384" CreationDate="2011-08-15T04:52:05.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they are not full floating calipers, most are not, then the problem may be the fixed side of the caliper pad has worn and you need to adjust the fixed side pad closer to the rotor (eliminate the gap)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The squeal comes from the movable pad pushing (flexing) the rotor over to make contact with the fixed pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of caliper needs periodic adjustment of the fixed pad as the pad wears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T04:52:05.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5459" CreationDate="2011-08-15T06:10:52.293" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are only a few measurements you need to be aware of when purchasing a new fork, particularly if you're avoiding suspension.  If you don't need suspension, don't get it - it will only add cost and complexity, and a cheap suspension fork will be much worse than a rigid fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic measurements you need to be aware of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Headset type.&lt;/strong&gt;  Not truly a measurement, but there are two types of headsets - threaded and threadless.  The photo you show is of a bike with a threadless headset; the fork's steerer tube will be a smooth, unthreaded tube and the headset is tensioned with a bolt from the top and the clamping action of the stem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steerer tube diameter.&lt;/strong&gt; Also two main options, 1&quot; (25.4mm) and 1 1/8&quot; (28.6mm, also known as 1.125&quot; or 9/8&quot;).  Nearly all threadless headsets use 1 1/8&quot; steerers. You can verify that the frame you have is for that size by measuring the inside of the head tube, it should be 34mm.  If you already have a headset installed, you can verify that the inner diameter of that is 28.6mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steerer tube length.&lt;/strong&gt; If you are purchasing a new (or &quot;uncut&quot;) fork this is extremely unlikely to be an issue, but on a used fork you'll need to check. The steerer tube needs to be long enough to extend above the top of the headset with room for the stem to clamp fully.  Too short and it can't be used with that frame.  Too long isn't an issue, since you can easily use spacers and/or cut it to length.  If you measure your stem clamp, your headset, and the length of your head tube and add a few mm for a safe margin you've got a bare minimum steerer length you'll need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheel size and brake type.&lt;/strong&gt; The bike in the picture has 26&quot; (559) wheels and is designed for cantilever or v-brakes. The position of those brake mounts is specific to the wheel diameter, so you'll want to make sure it's for the right size wheels.  If you switch to disc brakes, you can omit this concern, but not entirely, because of...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Axle-to-crown length.&lt;/strong&gt; This is the distance from the center of the axle to the top of the fork crown, just below where the steerer tube starts. The frame's geometry was designed around a certain distance here, and changing it dramatically will alter the handling by increasing or decreasing the angles relative to the ground.  For mountain bike forks this information is more difficult to come by than for road bike forks, but if your bicycle originally had a suspension fork the rule of thumb for rigid is to find a fork that is &quot;suspension corrected&quot; for the amount of travel your bike originally sold with.  In the case of the Scott Tocana it looks like most models shipped with an 80mm suspension fork, so an 80mm suspension-corrected rigid fork should keep things normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, given the bike you've shown, if you look for an '26-inch fork, 80mm suspension corrected, 1 1/8&quot; uncut steerer, v-brake posts' you will probably find something suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T06:10:52.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5446" CreationDate="2011-08-15T08:33:03.730" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Netherlands something has evolved that is (unofficially) called the &quot;mammafiets&quot; or &quot;mothersbike&quot; main features that make it a useful bike for cycling with children are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A larger distance between the saddle and the handlebars to allow plenty of room for a child seat on the handlebars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wider handlebars to make it easier to reach around the kid in the front-seat, and to make steering with a kid in the seat easier (more leverage) and the ride more stable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A support stand that has feet on either side of the frame to make it more stable when parking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A steer-lock to keep the front wheel straight and stable when your kid is in the front child-seat when you park the bike (very easy when loading a second kid on the back-seat or when opening shed-doors, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lower saddle to allow you to reach the ground more easily with your feet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A slightly longer rear luggage rack to give the kid in the rear-seat a bit more room, and still allow for panniers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An extra low step-through frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a typical example:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S2NgW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mammafiets&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T08:33:03.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5465" CreationDate="2011-08-15T08:45:43.057" Score="8" ViewCount="24277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an MTB with tires that roll very poorly on pavement because of the thread lugs. I'm looking to get a pair of slicks and I'm hoping to get some advice here. My bike is a 29&amp;quot;, I think they current tires are 700c 2.0&amp;quot; so I'm looking for something between 35c to 45c? What's the difference from choosing 35c vs 45c? Will it go faster on 35c and can I expect some difference in handling of the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be better to buy some new wheels than 2.0? Any advice on optimal tires for such a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1810" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-09-10T08:12:49.373" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T08:12:49.373" Title="Choosing good slick tires for a MTB" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5463" CreationDate="2011-08-15T11:22:51.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, when you reduce tire width AND increase pressure you get lower rolling resistance.  You will also find that the steering is a bit more &quot;lively&quot;, especially at lower speeds.  (Reduce tire width and don't increase pressure and you get more flats.)  As a first-order approximation, rolling resistance is proportional to the size of the &quot;spot&quot; your tire makes on the road, which in turn is a function mostly of weight and pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really don't need or want slicks for road riding, but a tread with relatively fine grooves.  Most such tires will be perfectly smooth across the very ridge of the tire(1/4 to 1/2&quot; wide), but will have tread on both sides, so that you roll smoothly but get the effects of the tread as soon as you tilt to one side or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T11:22:51.860" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5463" CreationDate="2011-08-15T12:04:27.860" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have 700C/ISO-622 rims and you're doing pavement riding, I'd recommend one of the Conti &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/race/racetyres/gatorskin/gatorskin_en.html&quot;&gt;Gatorskin&lt;/a&gt;&quot; tires. They go up to 32mm wide-- which is nearly optimal for urban street riding and nicely adequate for occasional trails w/o mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are very popular as training tires for roadies (in narrower widths) because they're very resistant to flats caused by glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handling will be different in &quot;feel&quot;, but nothing that you can't get used to in 10 minutes of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T12:04:27.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5467" CreationDate="2011-08-15T15:44:17.937" Score="1" ViewCount="1704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building up an old Terry bike and will likely pick up a NOS &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=8ca1cab2-f68b-47c8-83e3-15048c96e371&amp;amp;Enum=115&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano 600EX FC-6207 crankset&lt;/a&gt;. The corresponding bottom bracket for this crankset is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=63b6e049-bb8c-46f2-aee9-9155e06cfb1e&amp;amp;Enum=119&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;116 mm BB-6207 cup and cone&lt;/a&gt;. However, given the ease of finding a new UN54 cartridge compared to sourcing a BB-6207, would I be able to use the crankset with a 115 mm cartridge? My bike has 68 mm diameter English threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:39:59.977" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:39:59.977" Title="Cartridge equivalent spindle length for Shimano BB-6207 116 mm Cup and Cone Bottom Bracket?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5466" CreationDate="2011-08-15T16:44:51.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Remember that 1mm of difference is 0.5mm difference on each side and you will not have to adjust your derailleur or gears to accommodate that. Sounds like you have done your homework already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T16:44:51.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5459" CreationDate="2011-08-15T16:58:11.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most wholesalers carry generic 1 1/8&quot; steerer forks with bosses for 'V' brakes and no suspension for 26&quot; wheel. Your LBS will be able to get one in for you, pay £30 maximum for that in the UK and expect it in for you to collect in a week. (Most shops don't carry such items, just posh forks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to cut the fork down, this is simple enough and gives you the option to stack up washers on the headset for the bars to be at the height you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically replacement forks are painted black or chrome plated. Black paint will probably last better than chrome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it is worth I would avoid a second hand fork. You don't want to find out that it has crash damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do things through your LBS then you are in a better position if you need help getting that lower bearing race fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid suspension unless you are willing to pay real money. Forks with damping etc are really horrible bits of engineering even though they are seemingly popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T16:58:11.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5463" CreationDate="2011-08-15T17:23:26.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are road racing then yes, get the skinniest, lightest tyres you can find. However, if you are riding in traffic to get to work and back then you need a bit of comfort, some puncture proofing and good wear characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a few Continental tyres in my time but I cannot vouch for all of them. What I do know is that they are guaranteed - get a puncture in the first year and get your money back. I was sold on that, but, when you are fixing punctures in the cold and wet on a night when you wish you were home, that guarantee really pisses you off - the puncture proof promise is a marketing gimmick that is meaningless after you have done six months on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays I prefer a bit of cushion with my tyres, from more volume and not from lower pressure. High pressure, relatively high volume tyres work best for me. I am also not adverse to running different widths front and rear, with a bit more cushion at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like the reflective sidewalls although these get covered with dirt quickly if running 'V' brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having never had a flat tyre with Schwalbe Marathon or Marathon Plus tyres I would recommend that you pay the extra and give them a go. 700 x 35 is ample cushion and the extra weight of them compared to a road racer's tyre will not be noticeable since you come from having really heavy tyres. They also have enough tread to not slip like slicks if you do go off road and have to go up a wet grassy bank. I advise that you Google reviews of them, here are the available widths here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/c2-1071-schwalbe-tires-marathon-plus.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/c2-1071-schwalbe-tires-marathon-plus.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like it how the Royal Mail post bikes use Schwalbe Marathon Plus - they tried everything else and found that there was a business/economic case for running with the best tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T17:23:26.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2011-08-15T17:49:54.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One additional concern that hasn't been mentioned is that you should wipe off the chain with a clean rag &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; lubing as well as after. Lube helps push dirt out of the interior of the chain, but on a dirty chain the effect isn't strong enough to keep out grime. You might be causing premature wear if you're not wiping off the chain before you lube it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to invest in a heavier-duty chain. I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001KQ9ZAE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SRAM PC-7X&lt;/a&gt; on my track bike. Fixies will be inherently rougher on your chain, and you want something that's a little beefier than a standard road chain to deal with the additional stresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T17:49:54.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5466" CreationDate="2011-08-15T17:55:24.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;But also be aware that offset is an important criterion.  Cartridge offsets can vary from zero to 6-8 mm, IIRC, and you want to be within about 3mm or the cups won't be adjustable enough to maintain the proper chainline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T17:55:24.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5463" CreationDate="2011-08-15T20:11:12.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Police patrol bikes are essentially mountain bikes with street tires.  I have almost 30 of them that I maintain...&#xA;For years, I've been using the Continental &quot;town &amp;amp; country&quot; tire on our bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have proven to be durable, have low rolling resistance, and also considerable flat resistance.&#xA;One thing to avoid is any tread design with tiny cuts or &quot;sipes. These look good but will pick up all manner of road debris (especially glass chunks) and then slowly work them right through the body of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to most, actual tire width is not particularly important.  The contact patch (that's actually in contact with the pavement) is remarkably similar regardless of tire width.  Inflation pressure is more to the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T20:11:12.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5455" CreationDate="2011-08-15T20:14:49.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Freeride&quot; generally refers to the type of riding described above, using Summertime ski-trails to ride essentially downhill.  You usually truck up to the top.&#xA;&quot;Downhill&quot; normally refers to a particular type of MTB racing on a downhill course.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This would be pretty close to what you describe... Minus the competitive aspect.&#xA;Some of these races are conducted head-to-head on the same course, some are one-at-a-time &quot;time trials&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T20:14:49.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5476" CreationDate="2011-08-16T00:59:24.350" Score="5" ViewCount="12771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering whether someone could help me identify what is the bicycle Danny MacAskill uses in his &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cj6ho1-G6tw&amp;amp;t=25&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;. If it is unable to determine exactly what model he has, could you guys please tell me a rough estimate how much a bicycle that can handle such jumps would cost? What brand would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T11:27:37.720" Title="What is the bicycle Danny MacAskill uses in his &quot;Way Back Home&quot; video?" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4062" CreationDate="2011-08-16T02:18:28.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're riding in the wet, you'll need full coverage fenders, no question about it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/fenders/honjo-35mm-hammered-fender.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I have 35mm wide &quot;Honjo's&quot; on my rando bike&lt;/a&gt;. Those crud roadracers look like they could be the ticket too. The hard part for you is finagling enough clearance to install them (likely without screw holes in the right places).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're riding single speed, there's no reason why you can't also have have at least a half-chain case. Finding one after market is kind of tricky as is attaching it to your bike. &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/chainguards-stay-protectors-kickstands/vo-porteur-style-chaincase.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's one that I fancy a lot&lt;/a&gt;. In Europe full coverage chaincases are quite common, but don't know if this is possible with your fixie. In any case, a full chaincase will be the ultimate protection for your drivetrain and it looks cool too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T02:18:28.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2011-08-16T02:31:24.437" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;He rides a prototype trials bike by Inspired Bicycles that will be called 'Skye' when it comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full details on his rig:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inspiredbicycles.com/danny_macaskill_r3.php&quot;&gt;http://www.inspiredbicycles.com/danny_macaskill_r3.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspired sell frames that you can build up to your own specification, useful if you already have a bike that isn't quite up to the job as you can move the parts across and go from there. They also sell complete bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure someone can correct me on this, however, the mainstream brands do not really create anything that comes near to what you get with an Inspired trials bike. There are other brands, e.g. Mission, you may want to see what your nearest LBS has, chances are that they may have someone working there that knows their stuff and has passion for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now it would not do any harm to email Inspired Bicycles to see when the 'Skye' frame/bike is out and find out how much it is likely to cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T02:31:24.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-16T03:01:46.637" Score="2" ViewCount="4639" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is almost certainly very simply, but how do you undo the chainring bolts on the SRAM red chainset? I can fit a 5mm (or 8mm can't recall now) hex head into the black screws, but they just spin on the spot. I have tried both the front and back. Some seem harder to spin than the others, but I can't work out how to remove them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vFRBj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SRAM red crankset&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2025" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T17:25:52.477" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T18:29:20.307" Title="Removing SRAM Red Chainrings" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5477" CreationDate="2011-08-16T03:35:47.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect there's a sort of nut on the back, with a slot for a screwdriver.  Difficult to reach without a specially shaped screwdriver, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T03:35:47.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5481" CreationDate="2011-08-16T03:45:47.153" Score="7" ViewCount="2636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been under the impression that bikes and motorcycles cannot stop as quickly as cars.  I'm curious what factors have the largest impact on bike stopping distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What comes to my mind are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire size (more rubber on the road means more stopping power), a higher diameter/lower-pressure tire should be able to apply more friction to stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike weight (less weight is less intertia)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake types(?) Do rim vs. disc make a difference (it would seem they are negligible as both lock up the wheel when too much pressure is applied)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What impact do these factors have?  What other factors affect braking?  Which factors can be tweaked for greater stopping power--and at what trade-off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: My assertion that cars can stop more quickly than bikes originated from my motorcycle rider's ed when I was getting my motorcycle endorsement.  It was stated that cars are able to stop more quickly in general, and as such you must learn to follow further back than if you were driving, and also learn to swerve around stopped vehicles (in emergencies) rather than trying to brake in a straight line--as you are most likely going to end up on the bumper if you only brake without additional maneuvering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="1373" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T11:55:43.927" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T12:33:22.023" Title="What bicycle design factors affect stopping power?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;design&gt;&lt;physics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5493" CreationDate="2011-08-16T04:28:57.580" Score="2" ViewCount="572" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question Changed. See Below for Original.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My local bike shop neither carries fixed-gear/single-speed parts nor is very knowledgable about the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I find an online storefront to take its place? Or try to work with my LBS to get the parts I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original Question: Online Shop Suggestions for Fixies/Single-Speeds&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a reliable online shop for fixed-gear/single-speed parts. I have a frame and fork and am wanting to buy new, quality parts to complete my first build. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for (EDIT):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixed/Free wheel-set, cogs and crank.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shop specializing in, but not limited to, fixed-gear/single-speed parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality customer service by email or phone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A local bike shop with a good online storefront.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prompt shipping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ships to U.S. (Texas)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've tried my local bike shop for these parts, but unfortunately they were not very helpful after mentioning single-speed (they were cool about it, just uninformed).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1858" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T04:02:00.333" Title="My LBS does not carry fixed-gear/single-speed parts. What next?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5479" CreationDate="2011-08-16T04:54:08.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest factor in bike stopping distance is the mass transfer towards the front of the vehicle when braking. On an upright bicycle, the limiting factor in how hard you can brake is the point at which the front wheel goes from slowing you to simply throwing you over the handlebars. As you brake, your center of mass shifts forward, lifting the rear wheel.  Shifting your weight backwards and down while you brake dramatically increases your braking capability.  A human-powered vehicle with a lower center of gravity such as a recumbent trike or recumbent low-racer can also typically stop more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bicycle's braking limit is approximately &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.johnforester.com/Articles/BicycleEng/forkbend.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;0.67g&lt;/a&gt;, while the limit for a typical passenger automobile is somewhere between 0.8g and 1.0g. Legal requirements in the US are even less stringent than these limits - typically a passenger automobile must be able to brake at 0.53g, while a bicycle is only required to demonstrate the ability to skid the rear wheel, providing at most 0.2g of braking capability!  It's certainly the case that there are automobiles driving around with less braking capability than many bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The factors you mention aren't really significant in the limiting case - friction is related to the normal force over the size of the contact patch, so larger surface area doesn't really help, and even if you did increase friction (sticky tires) you'd still hit pitchover before the front wheel skidded. The bike's weight is usually a tiny fraction of the total system weight.  Disc brakes help in the average case since the discs typically have a better interface between the rotor and brake, but clamping a dry and clean rim brake can easily pitch a rider over the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T06:35:55.520" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T06:35:55.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2011-08-16T08:48:45.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only have a one-wheel trailer (Bob Yak), but after cycling over 4000km with the heavy loaded trailer on several &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tandemblog.ch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tandem tours&lt;/a&gt; I would not change. We even had no problems at low speed (climbing up hills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like a narrow trailer which is following the bike on the same track. With a two-wheel trailer you have to pay much more attention, especially when the road surface is bad and covered with pot-holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have a heavy load with a high balance point and a light bicycle, you probably better use a two-wheel trailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2144" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T23:25:07.567" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T23:25:07.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5480" CreationDate="2011-08-16T08:55:45.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the UK I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Charlie The Bikemonger&lt;/a&gt; for my single speed and fixed gear needs. I had no problems with the service but a sample size of 1 isn't really that significant!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T08:55:45.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4062" CreationDate="2011-08-16T11:51:32.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have an SE Lager which I ride single-speed with brakes :-)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I commute every day, no matter the weather, so I run mudguards (fenders if you're in the US).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've got the Planet Bike ones because that's what Cheeky Monkey, my LBS sell.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the SE Lager it meant I had to run a small tire on the back (23-622 ETRTO) for it to fit under the brakes. On the front I kept the 28 that comes with the Lager. Sometimes I had to fiddle a bit with the front mudguard / fender to stop it rattling. Cheeky (my LBS) used clamps to fix the mudguard / fender to the fork since the fork has no eyelets but they did a good job and the clamps work well. I never had to adjust the clamps, just where the mudguard / fender fixes on the brake mount.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're ok running 23-622 tires on the Lager then mudguards / fenders will work. My Lager came with 28-622 tires, and so those tires had clearance problems on the rear with the Planet bike mudguards / fenders. The problem I have now is that I bolstered my back wheel by getting a Mavic A719 with some DT Alpine III spokes but the 23 tire is borderline too small for that rim, and going to a 28 tire won't fit with the rear / mudguard fender. I got the mudguards after the wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great things about mudguards though   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A full mudguard on the front contributes a massive amount to keeping your shoes dry. Your shoes mostly get wet with the water coming off the front wheel where the wheel contacts the road. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The same way a full front mudguard / fender keeps your shoes relatively dry, it also keeps most of the gunk out of your drivetrain when it's wet. Since I ride whatever the weather I find the wet can degrade your drivetrain much quicker (when you ride without mudguards / fenders) and so a full front mudguard / fender does help quite a bit in this regard. The LBS agree. Some of them have courier backgrounds and so are all-weather too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Great for keeping the spray coming off the top of the front wheel from going straight in your eyes if you don't have glasses on. Glasses often fog a lot in the wet so I often take them off, and the last thing you want is road spray full of grime and oil in your eyes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handy for keeping that stripe off your back. Hey I've ruined perfectly good t-shirts when riding without mudguards in the rain. Some oil stains just don't come out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About your Bottom Bracket filling up with water, Cheeky Transport actually drilled a hole in my frame underneath the bottom bracket to let the water out. If you're going to do that you'll want to remove the bottom bracket first, or get a pro to do it. Otherwise, since your SE is steel you may want to apply rust inhibitor to the insides of the tubes. &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/blog/spew/spew_care_and_feeding_of_your_steel_frame/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly has a post about it.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T01:29:59.687" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T01:29:59.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5492" CreationDate="2011-08-16T12:31:51.947" Score="5" ViewCount="1450" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is slightly related to my &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5474/what-is-the-bicycle-danny-macaskill-uses-in-his-way-back-home-video&quot;&gt;previous topic&lt;/a&gt; about Danny MacAskill's bicycle, but not necessarily bound to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy a BMX bicycle with the following requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want to use it only in the city&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want to be able to perform jumps / rough riding on it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need to be able to jump at least 3 metres high jumps without coming nothing near to damaging the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My weight is 74 kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd like to pay around 500 EUR, but I can pay more if necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone point me to how to look for a bicycle I need? I have absolutely no experience with this, so I don't even know where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T18:23:08.263" Title="What BMX bicycle to buy for both urban and rough riding? " Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5494" CreationDate="2011-08-16T12:52:05.070" Score="2" ViewCount="3292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to road bike riding. At my local bike shop they fitted me for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/08374&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bontrager Nebula Plus&lt;/a&gt; to replace the stock seat that came with the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YGfM5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bontrager website says this seat is designed for hybrid riders. It's hard to tell at this point if my post ride discomfort is from the seat or if I'm still just getting used to ridding. Is a hybrid seat like this suitable to be used on a road bike ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1952" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T11:45:19.717" Title="Can a hybrid bike seat be used on a road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5488" CreationDate="2011-08-16T13:28:01.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you are not competing in Tour de France, it will be fine. You should pay attention to seat width. There are shops which provide metering of your sit bones (no touching :-)) and Bontrager has the same model in different sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="1373" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T15:22:20.987" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T15:22:20.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5488" CreationDate="2011-08-16T13:38:48.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference between a 'road' saddle and a 'hybrid' saddle is going to be the angle they're designed to have the rider at. If you're new to road bike riding it's likely your main riding position is the same as that hybrid saddle is designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That saddle &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like a road saddle to me. A bit more padding than the more &quot;serious&quot; saddles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, everybody is a little different. Depending what discomfort you're experiencing it's worth trying a different saddle. A lot of shops make it easy to try a different saddle (comfort guarantee, 1 week return policy, etc) because it often takes a few tries to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, the seat type is appropriate, but it still might not be fitting you quite right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For us or your shop to be able to help better, you'll have to be much more explicit about exactly what discomfort you're experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T13:38:48.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5488" CreationDate="2011-08-16T13:56:28.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ride several hours a week and you're still in discomfort after a few weeks it is likely the saddle. Everyone is a little bit different, not every saddle is appropriate for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many folks (especially men) find that narrower, stiffer seats are actually more comfortable than wider soft seats after the initial acclimatization of riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T13:56:28.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5487" CreationDate="2011-08-16T15:07:31.390" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rarely do you see people riding 'stock' BMX bikes - the bikes are as individual as the riders. Typically 'mummy' buys a 'stock' BMX and over time it gets more evolved, e.g. a frame with a longer top tube and fancy, bespoke parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK 'Mongoose' branded bikes are probably the best stocked and even then it is rare to find a bike shop with more than a few of the models, chosen to meet price points rather than due to the virtues of the bikes. Invariably you get tyres for the riding you describe with soft rubber rather than chunky tyres of a harder compound for the dirt track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coming from a cycling background you might find it hard to be on a bike that has just the one fairly weak rear U-brake or sidepull (or no brakes at all). Therefore you may want to have a look at the almost-mainstream models that come with both brakes. These come with a 'rotor' in the headset so the bars can be turned 360. These bikes usually come with 'stump pegs' and typically weigh several metric tonnes. You can obviously take the 'stump pegs' off as well as the brake/rotor to get the weight down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the department store BMX bikes come with wheels that are less than robust. Most BMX come with 36 spoke wheels and that is a lot of spokes on a 20&quot; wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chainring size is something to look out for. Most of today's BMX bikes have a ridiculously small chainring. The sprocket is also absurdly small so the gearing is the same as normal. You save weight and have higher clearance with the small/small gearing. Stay away from older models with the big chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for where you are now, you can go the traditional route of getting an available bike, such as a Mongoose freestyle model, to pimp it over time to suit your riding style. Alternatively you can buy a frame/bike of beauty such as a bike by 'We The People' and, even if you don't take up riding it too often, you will have a beautiful bike to look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all things cycling it is the rider and not the bike. Some of those bikes that get thrown around in a gravity defying way by the experts are unbelievably heavy, probably heavier than a typical MTB or a fully equipped hybrid. Bear this in mind when you go to a LBS that stocks BMX or get something online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T15:07:31.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5480" CreationDate="2011-08-16T15:18:53.610" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your local bike shop may not get it with fixed/single speed but do not discount them entirely. They can sometimes compete on price better than a mail order company simply because they will not be charging you shipping even if they have to get parts in specially for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bike shops have at least a couple of regular suppliers and these suppliers will almost certainly have what you need. Also, there is always the option to get spare parts for a particular bike. If you like the wheel set that comes with a a e.g. Specialized Langster and the shop do Specialized then you can ask them to quote you for a replacement wheelset. The same goes with Kona/Giant or whatever it is they do stock. With some brands these replacement parts are surprisingly competitively priced. Give the local shop a go even if they do need extra prodding and, if they are any good, they will give you service that the online box-shifters never can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T15:18:53.610" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5488" CreationDate="2011-08-16T15:21:11.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your LBS's advice should be fairly solid.  Saddles have a denoted usage, but it is not a strict prescription.  For example, my road bike is fitted with a mountain saddle (a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.serfas.com/product_details.asp?ID=732&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Serfas Tegu&lt;/a&gt;) and it keeps me quite comfortable for rides of around 4-hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a hybrid saddle on a road bike is perfectly suitable, however you may require a narrower saddle to accomodate the more aggressive riding position (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/4618/1373&quot;&gt;Should I use a narrower saddle on my roadbike than I would on my hybrid commuter?&lt;/a&gt;); however your LBS has likely taken this into consideration already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are still experiencing discomfort, then you may need to try a different size or a different model.  Saddles are highly personalized options on the bike, so it may take a couple returns before you find the correct one.  The position of the saddle on the bike is another aspect of comfort.  Some riders prefer their saddles at a slight angle, while others prefer it to be level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind with any new saddle there is a break-in period.  Typically you should put several hours of riding time in before making a conclusion--unless it is very uncomfortable right away.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are you wearing padded shorts?  Padded shorts add a huge amount of comfort--moreso than more heavily padded saddles.  Typically you are better off with a good pair of padded shorts and a fairly firm saddle than you would be with &quot;regular&quot; clothes and a very cushioned saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any concerns go back to your LBS and try to find out who their saddle guru is.  Try to describe the discomfort you're having (e.g. are your legs going numb, do the insides of your sitbones quickly become sore, etc).  They may adjust the position of your saddle or swap the saddle entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T15:21:11.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5488" CreationDate="2011-08-16T15:27:29.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say what sort of cycling (and how much) you've done before, or what sort of seat you've previously used.  There are all sorts of seats available, from rail-thin to extra wide, short to long, hard to soft, and the seat you should use is the one that is (in the long term) comfortable to YOU (though, granted, certain seats may cause &quot;serious&quot; riders to turn up their noses).  There is no &quot;right&quot; or &quot;wrong&quot; seat (within reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that a seat that's uncomfortable in the short term may be more comfortable in the long term, and vice-versa.  (A lot has to do with getting your butt &quot;conditioned&quot; to the seat.)  There's no really good way to tell, beforehand, what is the &quot;right&quot; seat for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T15:27:29.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5480" CreationDate="2011-08-16T15:55:47.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smartbikeparts in Chicago is something to look at. It's hard to navigate their site, but their inventory is deep, and the service I've gotten at their storefront has been excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T15:55:47.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5497" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-16T17:26:25.300" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T17:26:25.300" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T17:26:25.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5498" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-16T17:26:25.300" Score="0" Body="Questions that specifically deal with SRAM components. (No need to use if SRAM is an incidental part of the question.)" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T17:26:25.300" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T17:26:25.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5455" CreationDate="2011-08-16T18:36:53.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description it's hard to say exactly what kind of riding you are doing, all forms of mountain biking can involve going down hills quickly and jumping. If you want to be specific it sounds like it fits into one of these categories - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trail Riding&lt;/strong&gt; This is a good catchall term for recreational mountain biking where the trail is the most important thing - It includes climbing and descending, typically on singletrack. It's possible your wheels will get off the ground, but not mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All Mountain&lt;/strong&gt; Again this includes climbing, but all mountain riding focuses more on going down than getting up. A all mountain bike will generally be heavier and more robust than a trail bike - it needs to handle higher speeds and bigger impacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Downhill&lt;/strong&gt; Are you just interested in getting down that hill as quickly as possible? Are you pushing/getting carried to the top? Then you're riding downhill. You'll probably be jumping, and you'll probably be going very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Freestyle&lt;/strong&gt; Like downhill freestyle is all about the descent, but in this case style is more important than speed. If you're riding freestyle you'll be doing tricks and stunts on the jumps and drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that these aren't strictly defined terms, and are prone to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T18:36:53.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1476" CreationDate="2011-08-16T21:05:06.870" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where else are you supposed to put the tennis balls when you are carrying them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used to do this all the time as kids when we were going to the tennis courts. The racket is carried in your hand, preferably without a cover to cut down on drag, and the balls go in the spokes. If you don't have a pannier or a backpack, it's great place to put the tennis balls so you don't drop them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-24T21:30:52.153" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:30:52.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5502" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-16T21:29:01.327" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:29:01.327" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:29:01.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5503" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-16T21:29:01.327" Score="0" Body="Brakes with a disc near the hub and calipers that grip that disc." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:29:01.327" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:29:01.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5504" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-16T21:33:15.397" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:33:15.397" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:33:15.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5505" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-16T21:33:15.397" Score="0" Body="Competitive bicycle riding. Trying to go faster." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:33:15.397" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:33:15.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5506" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-16T21:34:31.527" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:34:31.527" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:34:31.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5507" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-16T21:34:31.527" Score="0" Body="The cogs (gears) at the front of your drive chain, connected to the cranks." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T21:34:31.527" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:34:31.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-17T04:04:42.047" Score="2" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've inherited a vintage tandem. It looks as if it has been spray painted, and has no identifiers, etc remaining on the frame. The serial # on the bottom reads -459310. Any ideas on a make or model, and whether this is worth reparing? It needs a total re-work from the shredded tires up through the rusty chain and the dry-rotted seats and rusted handlebars...not a pretty picture if you get the drift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2158" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T11:25:17.263" Title="How do I know if the tandem bicycle I've inherited is worth repairing? It has a serial # 459310 on it, no other identifiers" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5508" CreationDate="2011-08-17T04:25:43.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issues you've identified aren't terribly serious--however if they aren't a comprehensive listing of the issues (such as bad bearings, etc) then they may be understating the amount of work required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question of whether the make and model is &quot;worth&quot; repairing is largely up to you to decide.  Being an unknown bike you should evaluate it on the value it has for you, rather than a broader market value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific issues you've cited aren't terribly costly to resolve.  You can purchase replacement tires, handlebars, and saddles from any good used parts shop for a fairly low price.  A new chain is a small investment, and is a regular component to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall though I presume your question is omitting some details.  Photos and a more comprehensive listing of known issues will help better evaluate the potential to return the bike to a functional state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T04:25:43.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5479" CreationDate="2011-08-17T04:33:31.207" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep... what the others said. Your deceleration reaches its max limit when the rear wheel becomes totally unloaded and the bike is about to flip over by pivoting on the front axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, you can mitigate the situation significantly by lifting your butt off the seat and pushing your weight backwards as you're braking. Having more of your weight further behind the pivot point (the front axle) will give you even more deceleration before you flip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These considerations, however interesting, are pretty much just academic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The REAL determinants of being able to avoid a collision is NOT the theoretical limit of deceleration but whether or not the rider is paying enough attention to not get into a panic braking situation in the first place, the reaction time and judgment of the rider, the physical ability of the rider to properly use &quot;body english&quot; and bike handling to either stop the bike in time, maneuver around the obstacle, or just crash in a way that avoids the dreaded &quot;face-plant.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T04:33:31.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4593" CreationDate="2011-08-17T06:27:29.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the same situation, doing about 5000km a year just commuting and I'm chewing through chains, chainrings and cassettes, and some brake pads of course. I'm not interested in light-weight, I want durable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did get a single speed for this very purpose, to reduce the drivetrain maintenance costs. That does work by having a 1/8&quot; chain and a solid freewheel or sprocket and a solid chainring, however there is one hill I have to walk or run up in my commute, but I just pretend I'm doing cyclo-cross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at getting an Alfine 11 which will give me some gearing, whilst still allowing the 1/8&quot; chain, and durable chainring and sprocket. They are about 1/4 the price of a Rohloff, but the Alfine 11 now uses an oil bath, like the Rohloff, and should be a big step up from Alfine 8, in reducing maintenance and durability, and with an increase in gear range. The Rohloff is still the gold standard of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you go to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;belt-drive&lt;/a&gt;, which purportedly lasts longer than a chain, you have to have a single-speed or internal geared hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the nature of the dérailleur requires a skinny chain that needs to flex and won't last that long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@neilfein I can't answer your comment because I don't have enough reputation, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.downtheroad.org/Equipment/Wheels/Phil_Wood_Touring_Hubs.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this guy&lt;/a&gt; swears by the Phil Wood hubs that are made specifically for touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T06:38:14.280" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T06:38:14.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5508" CreationDate="2011-08-17T11:25:17.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any functional tandem is worth a little bit of money, if only to someone who wants to put it in their front yard garden.  Whether it's worth restoring to ride is harder to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely, from the sound of it, it's an old heavy steel frame, single speed bike with poor handling, and not worth anything to a serious cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But pictures would tell.  Pictures should include the whole bike, some close-ups of the frame joints, some close-ups of the wheel hubs, and some close-ups of the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if the bearings are in good condition, restoring the items you've mentioned would be maybe $100-150.  Whether it's worth that to you is the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T11:25:17.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5479" CreationDate="2011-08-17T12:33:22.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire size: not significant because on paved road any tire should provide enough friction (stopping force) to get you to the critical/tipping point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike weight: not significant compared to your weight (the difficulty is to stop the rider)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake types: I've found disc brakes reliable in wet and snow on hills and in traffic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The critical factor is the angle between your centre of mass and the point where your front tire meets the road. Being lower and further back reduces that angle, so push your bum off behind the back of the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need enough arm strength or alignment to stop you: beware being high with your arms downwards when you hit the brake. Positioning yourself as far back and as low as possible gets you behind (not above) the handle bars, against which you push to brace yourself as you come to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear wheel skids before the front (as the deceleration pitches you forward, the weight goes onto the front wheel and off the rear wheel, and friction is proportional to weight). On the other hand, it's skidding the front wheel that would cause a loss of control. One possibility then is to brake with both wheels simultaneously, and to ease up on both sets of brakes when the back wheel starts to skid (treat it as a ABS system)..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T12:33:22.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5514" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:14:05.573" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:14:05.573" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:14:05.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5515" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:14:05.573" Score="0" Body="The part of your bike that contains the axis the cranks arms spin 'round. (The crank arms are where the pedals attach.)" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:14:05.573" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:14:05.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5516" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:14:36.680" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:14:36.680" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:14:36.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5517" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:14:36.680" Score="0" Body="A happy bike is a clean bike. How to keep your bike squeaky clean effectively and safely. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:14:36.680" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:14:36.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5518" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:16:08.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excerpt (in part) from wikipedia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:16:08.860" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:16:08.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5519" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:16:08.860" Score="0" Body="Bikes that have no gears/shifters, and no freewheel - the pedals are always spinning when the bicycle is moving. Note that fixed gear is not the same thing as singlespeed, which has its own tag." OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:16:08.860" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:16:08.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5520" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:20:00.307" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:20:00.307" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:20:00.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5521" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:20:00.307" Score="0" Body="Usually means the front fork, where the front wheel sits. Can also mean the rear fork, a part of the frame. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:20:00.307" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:20:00.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5522" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:20:38.230" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:20:38.230" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:20:38.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5523" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:20:38.230" Score="0" Body="Kid trailers, cargo trailers, pet trailers, anything you pull behind your bike. Could also mean an Xtracycle or similar tag-along bike. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:20:38.230" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:20:38.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5524" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:22:01.443" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:22:01.443" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:22:01.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5525" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-17T22:22:01.443" Score="0" Body="Bikes that are built or modified for commuting" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T22:22:01.443" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T22:22:01.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5463" CreationDate="2011-08-18T04:56:01.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question about getting wheels other than 2.0 is not clear because I think from what you said earlier the tires you have now are 2.0 inches wide, not the wheel or rim. But to answer, I don't think you need new wheels or rims if you are happy with them (apart from the tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the tires, your only stated criteria appears to be rolling resistance. However I'm guessing you're not racing your 29er on road. You're most likely commuting or something so puncture protection may be important, and with puncture protection weight can be a trade-off. If you state your needs better, it will be easier to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, for street commuting and general riding I have used Schwalbe tires on both 26&quot; and 700c wheels, and I've stuck with them because they're so good. I've also done some gentle off-road riding with them, but again I don't know if that is a need for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Schwalbe website rates each of their tires for Speed, Grip, Puncture Protection and Durability &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the Marathon Plus for years and they are brilliant for puncture resistance, and I feel they are as fast as any MTB slick I've had. I've had one puncture in 30,000km, that was a screw that jacked up into the side-wall whilst cornering. They are however hard to get on and off (I found a good trick on Youtube to do this), and they are heavy.&#xA;I recently used the Marathon Dureme on a tour which are a lot lighter than the Marathon Plus and they were fast too, although a bit harder to tell how fast whilst touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 35c width should be faster than a 45c in the same tire, but I switched to a 45c Marathon Plus on the back, from a 35c and I can't tell any difference in speed. The extra volume suits me as I run panniers and so the volume provides cushioning, not only to me but the wheel as well. Again, don't know if this applies to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concerning the fit which you seem concerned about, since you ask if you should get new wheels, I would recommend looking at the ETRTO which is much more standard than traditional measurements which are often mixed imperial and decimal. Schwalbe lists their tires in both measures. You'll see that their 29 x 2.0 inch tires are a 50-622 ETRTO. You probably have 50-622 tires now. The main thing then is that you get a 622 ETRTO tire and that it is not too skinny for the width of your rim. Your rim manufacturer should state a minimum width tire. Make sure you are looking at the same measurement. ETRTO is the most consistent. The 700 x 35c and 700 x 45c you are talking about would be 37-622 ETRTO and 47-622 ETRTO respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T21:16:40.177" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T21:16:40.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5487" CreationDate="2011-08-18T11:24:49.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to own a Specialized P2 ($500 USD at the time).  I also suggest looking into the brand Kona.  Great bike at a great cost...Value.  Not sure if they are available in the UK.  Here's a list of Dirt Jump bikes to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/bikes/dj-mtnx/pls_1575crx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/bikes/dj-mtnx/pls_1575crx.aspx&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1086" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T11:24:49.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-18T13:26:01.237" Score="21" ViewCount="7640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been biking to work 2-3 times/week this summer and I enjoy it for the most part.  My big problem is that my ride is mostly downhill on the way in to work and mostly uphill on the way home.  These aren't mountainous climbs or anything but for a newbie like me they're tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 21 speed street bike and my hills are on streets in quiet residential areas.  &lt;strong&gt;What is the proper way to approach a hill in terms of gear selection and effort?&lt;/strong&gt;  Someone told me you shouldn't have to stand on the pedals to go up hills, but that seems like it can't be right from what I've seen (briefly) of the pros on TV.  I'm completely in the dark on gear selection.  Obviously its easier to pedal in lower gears but then I feel like I'm just wasting my energy pedaling quickly and not getting anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2169" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-18T15:07:49.450" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T10:39:59.690" Title="How should I approach hills?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2011-08-18T14:19:24.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes... no... all depends on the hill and your goals. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O.k. generally for daily riding (e.g. you're not trying to attack it like you're in a race) then find the most comfortable gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spinning vs. not spinning - in theory high cadence while going up a hill will save you legs for later in the ride. The pros will do this cause they have more stages/sprints/hills to contend with, and it does help on long distance rides imo. But in day in day out riding might not matter as much. Bicycling Magazine's book on basic cycling techniques tends to prefer high cadence on hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standing vs. sitting - again really up to you... I try to sit on short climbs as the effort is actually harder, but I'm trying to prep for some rides with major hills in them. Standing is useful when you need that short burst of momentum to get up the hill, but generally is not something you do for the whole climb. Generally you stand for short steep sections cause you need to use your body weight to help turn the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So until you get used to the hill it really comes down to experimenting since a lot of factors go into it (e.g. how tired are you, how much are you carrying that day, wind, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1859" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T14:19:24.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2011-08-18T14:30:32.130" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to put out a constant amount of effort no matter what slope I'm on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A constant 'cadence' of 60 to 90 RPM (that's how fast you spin the pedals)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A constant force on the pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The useful energy you put in is proportional to a product of the force multiplied by the cadence: spinning faster at the same force results in more energy input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep my cadence and force constant, I change gears: if it's spinning too easily/quickly and I'm going too slowly, then I change up into a higher/harder gear; on a hill if it's too hard to spin (at 60 to 90 RPM) then I change down into a lower gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm always seated (not standing on the pedals ... except when riding over bumps on the road).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With many (21+) gears you can find a gear (or a range of gears) to match the slope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pros on TV are sometimes sprinting etc. You don't necessarily want to ride like they do, when you're commuting (and a self-described newbie).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW now that I'm more practised (5 times/week since March) I sometimes find myself taking a hill in a bigger gear than I used to: but still sitting, and spinning quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Obviously its easier to pedal in lower gears but then I feel like I'm just wasting my energy pedaling quickly and not getting anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When approaching a hill from the bottom, approach at a good speed: fast cadence, high power, and a big gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're onto the up-hill, increase your push slightly (to try to maintain your cadence even though you're now going up-hill). Depending on various things (short hill, enough reserve power) you might thus get all the way up the hill without changing gear (but this might be exhausting) and finish before you're even tired (you complete it quickly because you're going quickly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't power up-hill in the big gear then your speed (and therefore your cadence) begins to drop. It's not worth letting your cadence drop: if you allow your cadence to halve, for example, then to maintain your power output you would need to double your pedal force to compensate (which you're not strong enough to). So whenever the terrain drags your cadence down to some minimum (e.g. 70 RPM) then shift down to an easier gear to compensate. Don't change down too far: only one gear at a time and only as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result is that you're always pedalling at a good cadence and with a strong force: and that is as fast as you can go! Not &quot;wasting your energy&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you change gears (especially on a hill) it's convenient if you have nice gears which let you shift quickly while you're loading the pedals, or which require you to ease up on the pedals (to avoid grinding and jumping the drive chain) for only a small fraction of a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Postscript:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I since moved to a hilly area (a few years ago) so I've had more practice. Wearing bike shoes (so my feet can't slip from the pedals), I now stand on the pedals to climb hills. My endurance has improved, so now I can sustain that for about 100 breaths consecutively before getting tired and sitting down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a horizontal, you want a sustainable effort (you don't want to become exhausted after a couple of minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a hill you may use a higher, less-sustainable effort because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you reach the top of the hill before exhaustion then you won't need to sustain it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the ride is a mix of faster (flat) and slower (up-hill) segments, it's the slower segments that take more time, and so are those into which it's worth putting any increased effort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standing on the pedals puts quite a bit more weight (force) on them, so you can be in a higher gear and go faster etc. I almost never use the bike's lowest gears any more: the hills up which I used to spin, I now climb standing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary I think my earlier advice above is good, but with practice some people grow out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2018-07-12T10:39:59.690" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T10:39:59.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2011-08-18T14:58:09.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly what ChrisW said.  If you want to become a competitive cyclist you might want to do it differently, but if your goal is simply to enjoy your cycling while building some reasonable degree of strength and stamina then --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintain a constant cadence (sort of)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintain a constant level of effort (sort of)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;sort of&amp;quot; is because it's fairly natural to decrease cadence and increase effort when going up a hill, and do the opposite going down, and you need not be a slave to the above rules, so long as you don't go overboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But one important thing to consider is that high effort pedaling at low cadence is especially hard on the knees.  So you're doing your knees a favor if you gear down and pick up your cadence, especially on hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What cadence and level of effort?  Some days you'll feel like working hard and some days you'll want to take it easy, so there are no fixed values.  But what I've found is a good rule of thumb for me is to make 1-2 turns of the crank for each breath I take.  This automatically adjusts between cadence and level of effort -- if you increase your effort you also increase your cadence, and if you're pushing it too hard the rule cues you to either cut back on effort or drop to a lower gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Added&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to consider, especially if you're not a particularly strong rider, is your &amp;quot;escape route&amp;quot;, should the hill (particularly an unfamiliar one) become simply too steep to climb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your feet are glued to the pedals (if not clipped in, at least well planted against the force of the hill) it's hard to simply stop without falling down.  Sometimes there's nice soft grass along the side, so you can fall into that with minimal chance of injury, but that's something of a rarity.  It's better, if you can, to &amp;quot;turn downhill&amp;quot; and come to a controlled stop.  This works best on the outside of a banked turn on a lightly-traveled road, where you can turn into the roadway.  Otherwise you can try to work yourself out into the traffic lane enough to be able to turn toward the shoulder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T18:44:00.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2011-08-18T15:32:09.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An answer I had posted previously:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride both SS/FG and approach climbing hills much of the same way I would if I were on a geared bike with one very big exception...MOMENTUM. When on a heavily geared SS/FG I gain as much speed as possible going into the hill and push hard to maintain it throughout the climb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic climbing tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Slide back on saddle and drive heels through the bottom of the pedal&#xA;stroke&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you need to stand, do so while minimizing body sway and&lt;br&gt;&#xA;unnecessary counterproductive upper body motion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get into a rhythm - climb at your own pace&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stay upright to keep lungs operating at full capacity&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull handlebars into your thighs as you drive pedals forward&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added information more specific to your question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Standing vs. Sitting&lt;/strong&gt; - when standing your legs are now carrying your body's full weight compared to sitting when the brunt of your body weight is being supported by your saddle. Standing requires more energy, but also allows for greater power output. Notice how when standing you breathing increases dramatically. So what does this mean? Typically if the climb is a short, sharp spike then standing may be required and fatigue is less likely occur. If the climb is very long, it is probably wise to stay seated until you are about at the crest or the end of the climb is in sight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In terms of gearing&lt;/strong&gt;, try to not let your climbing cadence drop below 75 rpm. Once cadence is in the 60 rpm range you are shifting from aerobic to anaerobic exercise and muscle fatigue will set in much faster. On flats, your cadence should be in the 85-95 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T15:32:09.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2011-08-18T15:43:40.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gradient and length of your hill will influence how you handle it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking it is good to maintain your momentum for as long as you can. Standing up is fine if you're intending to power up a short hill. If you're in it for a long slog, it is good to stay seated, put your hands on the flats, breath deeply and keep the upper body as relaxed as possible. Occasionally stand up and mash to break the monotony or force your cadence higher but you'll waste energy if you do it too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It certainly is possible to be in too low of a gear (especially on a triple like you have). If you're spinning quickly and the steering is slightly wobbly, your gear is too low and you should try something higher and go faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T15:43:40.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-08-18T17:21:48.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water.&#xA;Multi-Tool.&#xA;Knife.&#xA;Spare tube.&#xA;Pump (I think CO2 cartridges are wasteful and non-evironmentally-friendly)&#xA;Cell phone.&#xA;My key is to keep my bike well-maintaned so I don't have to concern myself with the possibility that my chain will snap or my derraileur will explode 100 miles from nowhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2175" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T17:21:48.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3868" CreationDate="2011-08-18T17:36:37.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carry a lot of stuff with me on my road bike.  Enough tools to nearly completely strip and rebuild the bike plus spare tubes, usually 1 tire, CO2 inflator, AND a hand pump.  Repairs are plan A.  My plan B involves the cell phone I also carry.  I consider it more important than all the tools.  Plan C is the pair of comfortable walking shoes that are also stuffed into my backpack.  Since that's my last chance, I consider it the MOST important.  Yes, I've been all the way down to plan C once in my riding...  Luckily it was only a couple miles I had to walk, but even that short distance would have been horrible in the cycling shoes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T17:36:37.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2011-08-18T17:54:01.817" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hills can be frustrating. 'Jedi Mind Tricks' as well as common sense cycling should help you avoid that frustration and allow you to get more out of your ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go as straight up the hill as you go down it. Keep your handlebars pointing in the direction you are heading, plot a course that avoids the bumps and try not to let the front wheel weave from side to side. Only on the steepest of gradients will you need to zig-zag across the road, for other gradients doing so is costing you precious energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are out to efficiently climb the hill and you are not in a race. You don't have to use every muscle in your body. Rather than be out of the saddle, pulling on the bars with your tendons popping, keep a relaxed upper body, be seated and turn the pedals at a sensible cadence. Keep your upper body focused on breathing, your legs on pedalling. With higher cadence you will be breathing more, with a lower cadence you will be punishing your knees more. Find a gear that gets this balance right for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get anxious - there is no top to the top of the hill. Well there is but you don't have to have your psychology set on it. Take the hill in your stride and not give a damn about getting up and over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do your best thinking on the hill. Unwind from your day whilst you wind up the hill. Think about things you want to think about. Dream. Invent. Inspire yourself. Do this instead of getting frustrated by the hill. But do stay awake enough to be aware of traffic etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that practice makes perfect. Just by doing the hill every day you will get quicker and better at it. Keep it up and, if you do the hill every day, it will no longer be an obstacle. Take time out and you will be back to square one - huffing and puffing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play cycling games with yourself. Go constant effort on some days. Go into 'burst mode' some days to push yourself quickly through corners and then ease up on the less steep sections. If you have got clipless pedals push through different parts of the power stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy the view. Play more games. Imagine what car on the street you would have if you could have any of them. Do the same with the houses. Be positively nosey with the houses and give a good look at them as you crawl by. With a row of identical houses make judgements about which ones have the best gardens/extensions/paint jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get frustrated about your bike. It might have a mega-flexy frame, brakes that rub, tyres that are nearly flat, gears that jump and a seat that is not quite in the right place. If you find yourself getting agitated about the bike and it not being the best in the world then you have to deal with that when you get in. There is nothing you can do on the hill. Remember that it is the rider and not the bike, the $$$$ carbon-fibre mega bike would help but you haven't got one of those and you have to be content with what you ride. The fit guy on a heap-of-junk always gets pleasure passing the flabby guy on the posh bike. Be that fit guy and make the bike immaterial. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of your co-workers and your neighbours. Even if it is raining, freezing cold and hard-going on the ride home there is no point feeling sorry for yourself. In fact do the opposite. Even if it is total adversity then you will get a buzz through coming through it. They may be in comfy cars but it is not all gravy. It does not take you that much more time to ride. They will not have done a great deal in the time saved by driving. They might go out to the gym 2-3 times a week, you don't have to bother. Going to the gym costs money and it takes up a lot more time than what you 'wasted' by cycling. Also, those cars cost money. The person paying for a car works for 5-10 hours a week just to keep the car on the road. Take pride in your cycling and see every pedal stroke as earning you money. Privately pity those people in nice warm cars with a nice stereo and cup holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enough may not ever be enough for you. Your journey time, speed and exhaustion levels after the ride may not be what you expect. Put aside your angst at not being quicker, see yourself as flying up the hill. Imagine yourself to be a better ascender than a descender. When you imagine climbing to be one of your cycling strengths you will be more confident and happier doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do an experiment with the speedometer. Try out of the saddle and in the saddle. Note how your speeds are lower when out of the saddle and bear that in mind on your daily rides thereafter. Keep the speedometer on and make mental notes of what you expect on given sections. Don't push yourself to always improve the speedometer times, however, should you note that you are slower up your pace because you know you can do it. Don't let the speedometer demoralize you. It will always show an average below what you are doing and it may be in single digits on the hill. Don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't stop. Don't contemplate walking. Defeatism is not allowed. It also makes for poor time. Keep on keeping on. Think of the long-distance lorry driver and how he gets further up the road in a shorter time than the flash-car motorist that is forever pulling over to service stations. Or think of the tortoise and the hare. It is all about keeping going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't expect to master the art of hill climbing overnight. But if you keep at it then it will come to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T17:54:01.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5233" CreationDate="2011-08-18T20:41:23.903" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as my experience gets, this can happen because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Punctures in the tube are too tiny. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valve is dirty, damaged or the seal is too old/has been overheated. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tube is old or has been chemically damaged, so has been turned more porous than normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tiny punctures, inflate the tube a lot more when testing and be more patient when testing, i.e. allow a little more time each time you sink the tube in water, and watch for bubbles that develop slowly and remain stuck to the tube. Don't be afraid to over inflate the tube, it won't blow up, but if it does, it was already too old or chemically damaged. You can safely inflate a tube up to three times it's normal &quot;non stretched size&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride without valve caps, dirt can get inside the valve or even the tube, later returning to the valve and getting stuck between the valve's sealing surfaces. This is hard to test without inflating the whole tire assembly and pumping it to maximum pressure. The valve can sometimes be cleaned by inflating to max pressure and deflating quickly a few times (2-4) IF this is attempted but does not solve the problem, look for a way of recycling the rubber!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seals in bicycle tubes are usually made of very soft rubber, which looses flexibility with age, even in the shelves, so, if you ever buy a tube that leaks air by its valve, try to get it exchanged for a different brand or one that is from a different/newer batch. Schrader and Dunlop type vales cores that are easily replaceable and with luck can be cheaply available. (In my country I can get 3 to 5 Dunlop cores for less than US$ 1.00) Schrader Valves are the same used in car's tires so maybe you get used ones for free at tire shops. (AS for presta valves, I do not know of replaceable cores...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had ruined dunlop valve cores due to rim brake overheating. As mentioned before, rubber seals are really soft and can be easily damaged. They become dry and cracked with age and heat. To avoid heating  of rim brakes, try to keep your rims and pads clean and free of oil and crystallized debris and observe a good braking technique in long steep descents. Schrader and presta valves are much less prone to this kind of problem, however, rim brake heating can also damage the valve neck (the union between the tube and the valve stem) weakening the union, producing leaks that are worthless to repair and sometimes very difficult to detect with the usual sink-in-water test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for old or degraded tubes, it's fairly easy to detect the problem. Inflate the tube so it becomes stretched. The tube should stretch in a more or less uniform fashion, and keep almost the same texture all-round. A very old tube degrades naturally, but chemicals can also damage rubber, accelerating its aging. Be careful if you store, repair, or use your bike, tires or tubes in places with existence of powerful solvents, paints with very volatile properties and the such. If you ever suspect that a tube has been chemically damaged, carefully inspect the tire as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tube that has aged out will stretch more in its weak parts. These parts would present a less smooth  surface, showing cracks and pores which appear not to be leaky. Those parts of the tube won't have the subtle shine of a clean rubber tube. Another sign of a weak or aged out tube will be the appearance of inexplicable punctures, such as tiny perfectly round holes in the part of the tube that faces a good clean rim tape. These fine holes appear by themselves, not by any object damaging the tire or tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, all that I have stated, comes from my experience, and I must say, that it varies somewhat due to quality, design, raw material and manufacturing processes used by various brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presta_valve&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presta_valve&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunlop_valve&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunlop_valve&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2011-08-18T22:06:47.247" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T22:06:47.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5477" CreationDate="2011-08-19T00:11:23.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted in the comments, you need to use a 6mm hex on the front and a 5mm on the back. Using these both at once will engage the bolts, and they will undo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2025" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T00:11:23.097" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-19T00:11:23.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5555" CreationDate="2011-08-19T00:14:02.690" Score="7" ViewCount="1567" Body="&lt;p&gt;Still, another of problem most of the cyclist go through &quot;Body Hairs&quot;. For guys with long hair all over the body, cycling is another way of punishing that guy (hopefully not me). Especially, the most problematic hair in my body are from thigh, they trouble be lot if not mitigated properly. I have tried shaving them, burning them (O.o) or other wild ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to get rid of the body hairs from cycling point of view?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2012-01-03T05:35:51.777" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T15:54:40.183" Title="Body Hairs and Cycling?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;body-hair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2011-08-19T01:00:54.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common, Am I the only one whose thigh hairs gets pulled while cycling. Or when cycling on jeans(I know its horrible thing), the ups and downs of hair is just kills me. Thats the reason I shave. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be pretty, when I am cycling, no way. I am cycling, not modeling for the cycles. (Sorry, guys if I have offended you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T01:00:54.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2868" CreationDate="2011-08-19T01:36:58.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, an electric &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yubaride.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Yuba Mundo&quot;&gt;Yuba Mundo&lt;/a&gt; has worked very well. By adding a trailer to it, I've hauled very bulk loads like a love seat stacked on top of a couch. Handling and performance are good up to about 100kg, although both the bike and trailer are rated for more. With my batteries, I can comfortably go about 35km, but further trips are possible with more batteries. Here are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=electric%20cargo%20bicycle&amp;amp;w=33677687@N00&amp;amp;s=int&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;some photos&quot;&gt;some photos&lt;/a&gt; of a number of things I've hauled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T01:36:58.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2011-08-19T02:27:45.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used both styles. I would recommend a single-wheeled trailer for touring or fast riding, because they corner with you, and fewer wheels should mean less rolling resistance, and less wheels to get flat tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For around-town hauling, I recommend buying a Bikes-At-Work trailer. They have a modular system that allows the trailer to be about 3', 6' or 8', and you can vary where the axle is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you need to haul a 32' extension ladder, you can set it up like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/4657289228/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you fit your goods in a some large bins, you might choose the 3 foot length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo linked above is of my own Bikes-at-Work trailer. I have lots more &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=33677687%40N00&amp;amp;q=bikes+at+work+trailer&amp;amp;m=text&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on Flickr&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T02:27:45.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5528" CreationDate="2011-08-19T04:15:04.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a longer hill, it's more efficient if you pedal while sitting. You can get quick acceleration standing up, and climbing a hill is essentially acceleration (gravitational), but if the hill is very long most people are more efficient taking it sitting down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that I can climb a hill faster at a lower gear and a faster cadence than my normal &quot;straight and level&quot; cadence. This may be because my normal cadence is a little slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is faster overall if you work harder to get up a hill than you do on the level and downhill. For example, if you climb 1 mile at 15 mph and descend one mile at 30 mph, your average speed is 20 mph (not 22.5). To increase your average speed by 0.8 mph in this example, you could increase your uphill speed by 1 mph, or you could increase your downhill speed by 4 mph to accomplish the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T04:15:04.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5346" CreationDate="2011-08-19T04:25:03.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand what you're trying to do but why is it important? You're concerned about the amount of drag you get from the freewheel when you're coasting, this can't be very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the drag is so bad that when you push the bike by hand the pedals turn then I'd say something is very wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're just feeling some small amount of drag that's OK. Why? because when you're coasting, you probably don't care if you have little bit of drag in the hub and you're probably going downhill anyway. The freewheel does its job when the pawls inside are locked with the hub, when the pawls are disengaged and you're coasting, you just have some slight friction from metal-oil-metal with no significant loading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why Sheldon Brown says it is not worth it to service the freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just buy a new or a NOS (new old stock) freewheel. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?nr=1&amp;amp;b=&amp;amp;c=Freewheel&amp;amp;sc=Complete%20Freewheels&amp;amp;tc=&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;s=&amp;amp;id=120166621172&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Loosescrews&lt;/a&gt; is a good source for basic stuff. You might also be able to find a high-quality NOS Regina from the 70's or 80's (that might be worth servicing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T04:25:03.440" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5559" CreationDate="2011-08-19T04:25:33.113" Score="11" ViewCount="24549" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the maximum tire pressure always the fastest on a road bike? I've seen the Michelin chart on tire pressure from another question (&quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2744&quot;&gt;What pressure should I run my Road Bike tyres at?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;), but they don't mention whether it is optimized for speed, safety, comfort, or some combination of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that the more pressure a tire has, the faster it goes. But this is not always true on a mountain bike, depending on the road/trail surface. Could it be that a smoother, less jittery ride at 105 psi might be faster than 120 or 130 psi on a road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T21:37:44.187" Title="What road bike tire pressure is best for speed?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5539" CreationDate="2011-08-19T04:31:47.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll confess to shaving my butt (with an electric trimmer) prior to a long ride.  This largely alleviates &quot;butt burn&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But leg hairs don't seem to be a problem when I wear standard cycling shorts.  I have had leg hair problems, though, when wearing other types of shorts.  (My legs aren't all that hairy, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T04:31:47.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5546" CreationDate="2011-08-19T04:43:25.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a perfectly smooth road you want your tires to be equally smooth and rock-hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a rougher road it's more efficient if the tires have enough &quot;give&quot; to &quot;levitate&quot; you over the smaller bumps, so that you're not using a lot of your energy to make the bike bump up and down.  A significant amount of energy can be lost (in addition to the wear and tear on the cyclist) due to bouncing the cyclist up and down over bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So on a &quot;sorta bumpy&quot; road you'd want to have tires that weren't quite rock-hard.  On a really bumpy road you'd want tires that are more along the line of mountain bike tires, running at a significantly lower pressure.  Basically as hard as possible without transmitting too many of the smaller bumps to the bike (and the cyclist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2017-03-02T21:37:44.187" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T21:37:44.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5546" CreationDate="2011-08-19T04:50:34.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your optimal tire pressure depends most importantly on the width of the tire and your weight. There's no formula. The recommended pressure on the tire is usually a lower bound for most folks, it is not unusual to exceed it by 10 psi (and sometimes a lot more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have trouble with pinch flats and your tire is already very hard to the point of being jarring, you need to get a wider tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one trick that I've already mentioned before: since your front wheel is under less load than the rear, it is OK to put less air pressure in it than the rear. This will dampen the road shock transmitted to your hands a slight but noticeable amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T04:50:34.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5552" CreationDate="2011-08-19T06:16:23.327" Score="2" ViewCount="7440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently finished building up a mountain bike, with the help of a friend. My initial rides - a few miles, nothing too extensive yet - revealed that I need to move the handlebars a bit up and back towards the saddle to make my elbows happy; I prefer them to be bent more than they are now. I can think of two ways to do this: Raise the bars or bring them closer in, or a bit of both. (The stem is already at the top of the fork steerer tube, and I'd prefer not to get an extender on this bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drivetrain is a Shimano mountain set I pulled off a hardtail 80's steel-frame mountain bike (upgraded in the noughties), hung on a hardtail 90's Specialized Stumpjumper frame (an aluminum frame with slightly more aggressive geometry). Neither bike had any suspension at all, including the front fork. (Due to my preferences. Suspension is nice, but I dislike the slight loss of feedback.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know what these changes are likely to do, and, possibly even more importantly, why this is the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 1: Get a smaller stem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an easy one, as the existing stem is quite long. Whatever I do, I'll want to bring the bars in. However, I could also look for a stem with a steeper angle while I'm at it. How will these changes affect how the bike handles? Will a shorter stem make the bike more twitchy, or less? (I quite like the way it feels right now.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 2: Get some riser bars&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a fairly simple way to get the bars closer to me. Rotating the bars one way or another will give me more options. However, I quite like the existing flat bar, as the simplicity of it is appealing from an aesthetic standpoint. Will riser bars affect the feel and handling of the bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two possibilities, and (I'm guessing) combining both approaches will likely be what I end up doing. Before I start ordering parts, &lt;strong&gt;which of these is likely to give me the correct reach while preserving the feel of the bike as it is now, and why?&lt;/strong&gt; Are there options that I haven't thought of? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T23:22:02.413" Title="How can I move the handlebars on a mountain bike close to the rider without affecting handling and control?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5550" CreationDate="2011-08-19T12:22:00.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moving your bars is probably going to move your centre of gravity which is likely to affect the handling of the bike. That said if the only change is that your elbows are more bent it might not make a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shorter stem will move your weight backwards that means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bike will be more stable and less twitchy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will be easier to move your weight back when descending. It will also increase your range of movement, giving you more control (as long as you use it!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will be in a less powerful position for pedaling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The front is more likely to unweight and rise when going uphill. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're fitting a shorter stem you'll want to lift the bars up as well, you can do this by fitting a stem which is angled, or riser bars, or both. This is all about what feels good so you'll want to experiment a bit - long/low and short/high both feel good, long/high and short/long don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing you can do to get yourself closer to the bars is to move your saddle forwards - the saddle can move forwards or backwards on the clamp, and you could possibly use a seatpost with less/no layback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="127" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T17:49:37.383" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T17:49:37.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5546" CreationDate="2011-08-19T13:17:57.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends how fast you're going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At relatively low speeds, what matters (i.e. the biggest force slowing you down) is rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At relatively high speeds, what matters is aerodynamics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At high (i.e. racing) speeds, then,  you need a narrow/thin tire to minimize wind resistance. A narrower tire requires a higher pressure than a wider one (e.g. if you'll forgive my non-SI units, a 23 tire at 130 psi compared with a 32 tire at 85 psi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I understand your question, though: I don't think you'd race a road bike on a &quot;trail surface&quot; (you'd do it on a paved road).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T13:17:57.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5550" CreationDate="2011-08-19T13:22:18.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although not very cool, you could get an adjustable stem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eJaNG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These come on a lot of bikes, e.g. Ridgeback in the UK. You may find that your LBS has a few knocking around in the workshop that might be available to you for less than the RRP. You will be able to use one to find out what does work for you. If you then upgrade to the ideal stem and take the adjustable one off then it probably will not take too long before you find a home for it on a friend's bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken a while to warm to this product, an additional bolt in the stem area made me think that it could weaken the area to introduce play etc. However, in practice, these stems work really well for a lot of people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also investigate the riser bar. They put the hands in a much more ergonomic position than flat bars although you do lose handlebar real estate for lights, speedometers etc. Again, ask at the LBS for what they might have knocking around in the workshop.  If you can live with a few scratches then you might get a bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T13:22:18.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5539" CreationDate="2011-08-19T13:22:39.723" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your options for temporary hair removal are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Razor Blade:&lt;/strong&gt; Pros - cheap, easy to do for most areas. Cons - you won't stay smooth for long, regrowth is stubbly, you can cut yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electric Razor:&lt;/strong&gt; Pros - very cheap, very easy to do for most areas. Cons - you won't stay smooth for long, regrowth is stubbly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Depilatory Cream:&lt;/strong&gt; Pros - fairly cheap, fairly easy to do for most areas, reasonable results, stays smooth for a reasonable length of time. Cons - smells,  potential for chemical burns if you get it wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Waxing:&lt;/strong&gt; Pros - good results, stays smooth for a long time (probably a few weeks). Cons - can be painful, difficult to do yourself, expensive (and possibly embarrassing) to get it done professionally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Epilator:&lt;/strong&gt; Pros - very cheap, easy to do for most areas, good results, stays smooth for a long time. Cons - hurts like hell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T13:22:39.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2868" CreationDate="2011-08-19T13:46:52.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those Austrian postal bikes make sense in a context where the rider will be starting and stopping a lot, as those outrigger wheels will hold the bike up when the bike stops. But I don't think they'd be helpful for steady riding over longer distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Panniers are fine if the load can be divided among panniers, but the question refers to building materials. For that, I think a trailer is the most obvious good option. Cargo bikes (like a longjohn/bakfiets) or cargo trikes that would also be a good option, but that would be much more expensive and less flexible than a conventional bike with a trailer, and might not carry cargo as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The engine on a bike (us) produces so little power that it's important to optimize the bike to the purpose at hand. If a longjohn will carry everything you need and you will use it as a cargo bike enough that it makes sense to have a dedicated cargo bike, that's a good option. If it does not make sense to have a dedicated cargo bike or if the longjohn cannot carry all the cargo you need, get a trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T13:46:52.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5562" CreationDate="2011-08-19T13:50:12.070" Score="2" ViewCount="2573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to set up the perfect shifter + derailleur. For the last part it is better (for me) to have low-normal version, because reducing gears is essential for me (I bike mostly within city).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I bought low-normal Shimano derailleur (Shimano-RD M770 SGS XT) and M770 shifter. To my surprise it is asymmetric shifter -- you are able to release gears by 4, and increase by 1 (I tuned M770 already, so I am able to increase gears by 2, just like with XTR).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with current configuration I can more easily increase gears (by 4) than reduce them -- quite contrary what I wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can send back derailleur, and order a new one, with top-normal spring, but I would &lt;strong&gt;LOVE&lt;/strong&gt; to improve M770 shifter even further by reversing the direction of cable, i.e. so the thumb level would pull the cable, and index level would release cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such tweaking would result in dream machine (well, part of it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question is&lt;/strong&gt; -- is such modification is possible at all (at home)? I would appreciate firm &quot;no&quot; or &quot;yes&quot; (+how to do it) answers. Thank you very much in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T16:27:38.740" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T21:31:39.727" Title="Is it possible to reverse cable direction in Shimano M770 shifter?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5568" CreationDate="2011-08-19T13:55:10.063" Score="12" ViewCount="17811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute on city streets and have had two punctures in 5 months: first a roofing nail, second a small shard of glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Punctures are a nuisance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read some people recommend Schwalbe &quot;Marathon&quot; tires. A comment in reply to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1952&quot;&gt;Are slick tires worth it for commuting?&lt;/a&gt; also mentions &quot;Conti Gatorskins, Specialized Armadillos, Soma Everwears, et al.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything to distinguish one from the other? For example if an LBS stocks Conti Gatorskins should I say, &quot;No, I'm looking for Marathons&quot;? Or are they more or less equally effective (price and, more importantly but less easy to measure, puncture resistance and rolling resistance)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wheels are 700x32.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T18:29:06.270" Title="Which puncture-resistant tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5546" CreationDate="2011-08-19T14:04:31.983" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5546/what-road-bike-tire-pressure-for-best-speed/5549#5549&quot;&gt;Angelo's answer&lt;/a&gt;. Tire diameter and your weight will determine the optimal pressure. Beyond that, this is actually a controversial subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that you want to minimize rolling resistance. &quot;Rock hard&quot; isn't necessarily the best approach. One widely cited opinion is that above a certain pressure, there's no benefit in terms of rolling resistance, and the target is a 15% &quot;drop&quot; (vertical deformation under load)—it is argued that even with less drop than that (i.e., higher pressure) you do not see an improvement in rolling resistance, so all you're doing with that extra pressure is making the ride harsher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rolling_resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;couple&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;articles&lt;/a&gt; (pdf) discussing pressure, rolling resistance, and tire drop. You can see that there's a diminishing-returns curve in terms of power savings at higher pressures. The second one includes a graph showing how much you should inflate a tire to get a 15% drop depending on how much load there is on that wheel and how wide the tire is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should point out that this opinion is not universally held. Jobst Brandt, for one, is skeptical, but I'm not sure what he recommends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T21:56:03.610" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2011-08-19T14:24:09.437" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_plus&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Marathon Plus&lt;/a&gt; (not just the Marathon) is widely regarded as the most flat-proof tire out there. It's also heavy and expensive, but if your priority is avoiding punctures, I don't think it can be beaten. ISTR reading about a round-the-world rider completing 50,000 miles on a pair without a flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specialized Armadillos are not, in my experience, particularly flat-resistant, although there might be a beefier version than the one I was riding on. I have no experience with the Gatorskins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, there are definitely differences between flat-resistant tires. There are even differences between Schwalbe Marathons variants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T14:24:09.437" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2011-08-19T15:52:03.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several categories of &quot;puncture resistant&quot; tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplest is probably not the tire at all, but an extra-thick tube.  Some are available with a non-uniform wall thickness -- thickest on the outer surface that would be against the tread area of the tire.  (These are generally advertised as &quot;thorn resistant&quot; -- in some parts of the US thorns are the biggest puncture hazard, apparently.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are hole-sealing gels that you can inject into the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that are the Kevlar-belted tires.  Some with just a thin belt, and some much heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are various types of &quot;solid&quot; tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Two punctures in 5 months is doing pretty well.  I probably averaged two punctures a month before I started running Kevlar-belted tires.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T15:52:03.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2011-08-19T17:24:21.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should switch your derailleur out for one with a reverse pull, but there is absolutely no chance that you'll get the shifter to reverse the operation of the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T17:24:21.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5487" CreationDate="2011-08-19T18:15:50.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to note is that Danny Mac rides trials, not BMX, so your'e actually looking for a trials bike (although his actually riding is something of a crossover between the two). Pretty much any trials bike you can buy will stand up to big jumps and drops &lt;em&gt;as long as your technique is good&lt;/em&gt;. Although they are built strong bad landings and other abuse will still take their toll. For a beginner there's a lot to learn, and 3 metre drops are pretty advanced. Frankly, you'll never be as good as Danny because he's some kind of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShbC5yVqOdI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;freakish genius&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you google trials bike you'll find plenty of options, at a good range of prices. Danny uses a custom frame from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inspiredbicycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Inspired Bicyles&lt;/a&gt; but any of the bikes they sell would be suitable. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tarty Bikes&lt;/a&gt; are a well regarded retailer, and they ship worldwide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest decision you have to make is what size wheels you want - your options are 20, 24, or 26 inch. Danny Macaskill runs 24 inch wheels but each have advantages and disadvantages. There's a good video about this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/product_guide_20_inch_vs_24_inch_vs_26_inch_wheels/m8.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;*. In summary 20 inches are easier for beginners, ligther, and often cheaper. 26 inch wheels are good if you have an MTB background that's the standard wheel size. 24 inch wheels are a newer concept, and good for a mixture of trials and BMX styles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*They also have a good range of other &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video guides&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="127" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T18:23:08.263" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T18:23:08.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2193" CreationDate="2011-08-19T18:49:21.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bedding in brakes removes any glaze from your new pads, and any contamination from your disc rotors. It also transfers material from the pads onto the rotors, which helps them work together. It's essential to get the optimum performance from your brakes when you change pads. Follow these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean your rotors - you don't want them to transfer any grease and&#xA;grime to your new pads. You can buy dedicated brake cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fit the new pads and find a place where you can build up a bit of speed. A hill is helpful for this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Build up some speed and then brake to a gradual halt. Repeat a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's probably all you need to do. However some people, myself included, like to pour water  over the hot brakes. I'm not sure this actually improves anything but even if it doesn't it sizzles and steams, which is pretty cool  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T18:49:21.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2011-08-19T19:31:57.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;How to kludge up a &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obtain two stainless-steel &amp;quot;spiral&amp;quot; hose clamps, a little larger than your frame tubes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obtain some shift cable housing material and a new shift cable (or two), as long as possible (your existing will likely be too short).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obtain an extension (pull) spring you judge to be about twice as stiff as the spring on the derailer (measured by pulling the cable).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obtain some sort of cable clamp that can be used to clamp the end of 4 shift cables together (two cables doubled over).  (Or maybe two separate clamps will work out better.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your shift cable comes up the down tube, you'll work on the top tube, and vice-versa.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Devise a hook of some sort that allows the spring to be anchored to the tube via one of the clamps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run a piece of cable housing from the shifter to maybe 6&amp;quot; short of the loose end of the spring, after it's mounted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run a piece of cable housing from wherever the old housing began in an arc (from down tube to top tube or vice-versa) and ending at the same point as the first piece of housing.  (Note that this piece will be running &amp;quot;backwards&amp;quot;, towards the back of the bike.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp both pieces of housing to the tube with the second hose clamp.  (This may be a less than ideal anchorage, but remember -- this is a kludge.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread cables into both housings appropriately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread cable ends through the loose end of the spring and back on themselves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the cables enough to pull the derailer all the way into low gear, then fasten the cables with the cable clamp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trim or secure the wild ends of the cables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust and ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T12:08:10.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2011-08-19T21:37:43.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to chime in about the Marathon Plus, I used to have punctures all the time. I'd say every month at least. I switched to Marathon Plus after baulking at the price and have never looked back. I've used them now for years in 35-559 and 47-559 ETRTO and done about 50,000km with them on Sydney streets that are full of glass and debris and I've had one puncture, and they last longer than an ordinary tire too. (The puncture happened whilst cornering, when I ran over a screw which flipped up and into the sidewall)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem was that they can be VERY hard to get on or off the rim, depending on your rim. Hopefully you won't be doing that too often though. However, I used to swap them out for knobbys for a bit of mountain biking occasionally. I have changed a few tires but never ones as tight as the Marathon Plus. I'd come away with sore hands and blisters after half an hour, until.... I found this video on YouTube &#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/-XUFVrl0UT4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;Follow that and you'll be changing the tire in 5 mins like any other tire. Brilliant!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the Marathon Plus are perfect for commuting, and fast.&#xA;This page lists sizes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_plus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_plus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ETRTO is the most consistent sizing to look at. You'll need 622 ETRTO for a 700c rim. So 32-622 or 37-622 for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T20:52:21.517" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:52:21.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2011-08-19T23:59:57.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might as well chime in on my favourite tyre...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Marathon Plus on my 20&quot; wheeled folder and Marathon (front) + Marathon Plus (rear) on my MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller wheel size is more aggressive with anything it finds in the road and I tried some pre-production Conti efforts on that but they were only good for a few months, after that I was picking punctures up on a weekly basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the MTB, the reason I have the Plus on the back but not the front is that the front wheel doesn't carry that much weight compared to the back. It also flicks stuff up that goes under the rear tyre. for instance a piece of glass, flat in the road and minding its own business, in the wet will get unseated from the tarmac by the front wheel and the back wheel will then catch it good and proper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have yet to have a flat on the Schwalbe tyres I own, so I would recommend mix and match with 'Plus' on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the British Post Office use them for their post bikes. Their posties do not go at Tour de France speeds, however, they have a bigger fleet of bicycles than anyone else in the UK and they use the Schwalbe tyres because they are better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like it how Schwalbe just do tyres. I have met the guys and they have the product focus and have done a really good job listening to customers and getting the most out of their far-East supplier. The product really has came a long way from the 'Swallow' tyres of yesteryear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to swear by certain 'Panaracer', 'Michelin' and 'Specialized' tyres, however those were false dawns. Schwalbe Marathon Plus is the real deal if you don't want to have to bother yourself with punctures. Get them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T23:59:57.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5609" CreationDate="2011-08-20T00:59:56.167" Score="5" ViewCount="3214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had experience on a couple of mountain bikes when I could not adjust the disk brake caliper positions far enough left or right to keep the pads from rubbing the rotor a little. Is this common and/or normal? Is there a something I'm missing, or should I just bend it a little?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T04:19:36.093" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T13:44:52.090" Title="Adjusting disk brake pad positions" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5572" CreationDate="2011-08-20T06:35:28.377" Score="4" ViewCount="2266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what are the differences between a small (20'&quot;) trial bike and a BMX? Were I to choose one to buy, what should I consider before I make my decision? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T18:51:26.763" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T12:35:32.537" Title="What are some notable differences between a 20'' trial bike and a BMX bike?" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5439" CreationDate="2011-08-20T13:10:44.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember that decades ago when wool cycling jerseys were common, the middle pocket in the back sometimes had a button and button hole. You could button the largest pocket. I don't remember if the other pockets also had buttons and button holes. My guess is that the stitched hole is a vestigial button hole from an old jersey style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1396" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T13:10:44.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5570" CreationDate="2011-08-20T22:31:33.913" Score="11" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trial bikes more often have flat handlebars rather than the &quot;tall&quot; bars common on BMX bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trial bikes are more likely to come with &quot;bash guards&quot; around the chainring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BMX bikes may come with somewhat higher gears than trial bikes (but not always).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some trial bikes have no seat or seatpost at all, whereas most or all BMX bikes do have a seat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trial bikes have two very strong brakes (often disc brakes), while many BMX bikes have no brakes at all or only one for the rear wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two bikes that are reasonable examples of each category (notice the handlebars, the different sized chain ring (i.e. gear transmission ratio), the seat post and the brakes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The riders are doing seemingly the same trick. But the trial bike stands still like a rock and could stay in this position forever (strong brakes, static equilibrium), the BMX rider is on top of this obstacle only for a few seconds, not needing to use his brake (dynamic equilibrium, notice the fast spinning front wheel):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trial bike&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/osAOX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trial bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMX bike&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLfbr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMX bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for which you should choose, well, I guess it depends on how you intend to ride (and whether you think a bike without a seat is ridiculous!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source of both pictures: &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Trials_Kings_Bike_Display_Team_2009.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikimedia&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:BMX_abubaca_street.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Commons&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastEditorUserId="7790" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T12:35:32.537" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T12:35:32.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1235" CreationDate="2011-08-20T23:15:32.547" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use levers to get the tire off. Never to get it back on! You'll most likely pinch the tube if you do and have to start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires are one of the most notoriously difficult tires to get on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; This youtube video shows you how to do it without levers and without hurting your hands or getting blisters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/-XUFVrl0UT4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need two toe straps or a similar strap, to push the tire bead into the well of the rim on the opposite side to the last bit of tire you're trying to get back onto the rim. As you'll see from the video, just keep working the tire bead into the well of the rim on the opposite side and you'll get it on, no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a saviour for me, since before that I'd get blisters and sore hands and it could take me an hour to change the Marathon Plus. Now it takes me a little over 5mins, with no blisters or sore hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T17:59:31.237" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T17:59:31.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2011-08-20T23:36:33.063" Score="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/-XUFVrl0UT4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4&quot;&gt;The above video&lt;/a&gt; shows how to fit a tight tire / rim combination. Although it shows the Marathon Plus tire, it applies to any tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crucial point he makes on the video is that the tire bead doesn't stretch and is the limiting factor in getting the tire on. Thus you need to push the bead into the well of the rim on the sides opposite to the last bit you're trying to get on. Doing this gives you the room you need to get the last bit on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The extra room will make it easier and you will be less likely to pinch the tube. You can use straps to hold the tire in place if you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the Marathon Plus tires and it used to take me an hour of frustration and sore hands trying to get them on. Using the technique in the video it takes me 5 mins like any other tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="10843" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T18:04:12.557" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T18:04:12.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2011-08-20T23:49:40.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Daniel's advice to work the bead into the center of the rim is one of the most important bits of advice I've ever encountered for dealing with balky tires. Makes a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that may make a difference is your basetape. The rubbery stuff that is often installed at the factory is relatively fat compared to others. Velox is the common alternative; Schwalbe makes a basetape that is especially flat and hard, and I've had good luck with. Some people use strapping tape (aka filament tape), although I haven't had great luck with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T23:49:40.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2011-08-20T23:59:04.233" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Dustin's answer as the putative reasons usually cited, but I think at some level, it's a &lt;strong&gt;mark of the tribe&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guys figure &quot;if I shave my legs, other cyclists (and even some non-cyclists) will recognize me as a fellow cyclist.&quot; If being a cyclist is an important part of your identity, that'll be important to you. It is kind of cool to be able to pick someone out and strike up a conversation about cycling just based on their weird tan lines and/or shaven legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T23:59:04.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2551" CreationDate="2011-08-21T01:48:17.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best reference articles on the topic of children and bicycles is &lt;a href=&quot;http://totcycle.com/blog/family-biking-ages-stages.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Family Biking Ages and Stages&lt;/a&gt; from the Totcycle.com blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bakfiets is great for the youngest rides because a the child rides in front of you, so you can make eye-contact. A rear-facing carseat can be strapped in, and the center of gravity is down low, and the baby is further protected by a wooden box as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took my 3 month old soon for his first bike ride in our &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/sets/72157605266946712/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bakfiets&lt;/a&gt; today. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T01:48:17.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="380" CreationDate="2011-08-21T02:02:48.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had experience transporting a laptop, which I also didn't want to jostled. The best padding for it was not an official &quot;laptop sleeve&quot;, but wrapping it in bulking fleece jacket, and then stuffing that into my pannier, which made a tight fit. I would be inclined to take the same approach with a carton of eggs: wrap them in fleece jacket, stuff that in a container, and strap it tightly to the trailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, let a little air out of the trailer tires for some free shock absorption. ( I used that trick today when taking my 3 month old on his first bike ride, in a rear-facing car seat strapped into a bakfiets ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T02:02:48.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2011-08-21T02:16:29.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The San Francisco Bicycle Coalition did a survey of in their ara of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sfbike.org/?women_mb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;why more women don't ride their bikes&lt;/a&gt;. Scroll towards the bottom to find a list of concerns tied to specific survey data. One of the reasons was that &quot;37% of respondents did not agree that it was possible to transport children or groceries on a bike&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit: link dead, edit in article via archive.org)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why Aren't Women on Wheels?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Survey says: &quot;Cars!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;by Mary Brown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The number one reason that women don't ride bikes is... CARS! Not that cars are so much easier, but rather, women said they don't feel safe sharing the road with them. A full 80% of respondents didn't, according to our recently completed Low-Income Women and Bicycling Survey Project. Also, 63% said they would consider riding a bicycle if there were bike lanes in their neighborhood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The survey found that only 12% of low-income women owned a car, yet 34% owned a bicycle! While 35% said the commute would be too far on a bicycle, more 65% actually lived within riding distance (10 miles or less roundtrip). It's interesting to note that although the 39-question survey was developed primarily to uncover low-income women's barriers to bicycling, it revealed more similarities with women of all incomes than differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We've always made some pretty random guesses as to why so few women biked, so with the support of a Women's Foundation grant and the help of David Binder Research we developed the first ever transportation research study focusing on women and bicycles. SFBC volunteers surveyed 416 random women for this field intercept survey with the goal of finding out why women ride bikes at far lower rates than men.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bicycles are, potentially, an efficient and economical transportation choice for all people, regardless of class, race, income, and gender. However, the reality is that bicyclists on the streets of San Francisco are predominately white men in their 20s-40s. Approximately 4% of San Franciscans (about 30,000 people) commute to work and errands on bicycles, and of that number, less than 25% are women.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We want more women to utilize the bicycle as a convenient, cost-effective transportation choice and to discover how fun and easy it can be to bike. With the upcoming Bike Plan Update kick-off just a week away, we are in a prime position to advocate for the transportation needs of low income women. The results of this survey are now a base for our strategic planning and efforts to shape public policy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The most exciting part about the survey results are similarities between respondents' top barriers to bicycling and the SFBC's own current programmatic goals and the myriad of opportunities this presents. We are actively working to create a bike network that would link all neighborhoods and commercial centers via protected space for bicycles, separate from most car traffic. Our goal of a combination of bike paths, bike lanes, and slow, traffic-calmed streets would help women overcome their fear of sharing the road with cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The SFBC recently applied for an additional grant from the Women's Foundation to develop a campaign to increase bicycle use among low-income women. One component of this campaign would be the development of an information booklet addressing the practical concerns of women about cycling. These booklets would be based directly on information gathered from the survey. Such as,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;where to buy low-cost bicycles (63% of respondents said they would consider riding if they had access to a free or low-cost bicycle);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;how to transport children or groceries on bikes (37% of respondents did not agree that it was possible to transport children or groceries on a bike),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;how to use the bike racks available on all regional buses (35% of respondents said they commute too far to work to use a bicycle);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;how to correctly lock a bike and avoid theft (62% of respondents stated their perception that bicycles frequently are stolen),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;where to find bike maps that show the best streets for bikes (66% of respondents said it was too hard to ride a bike due to the hills);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;how to avoid getting sweaty or dirty (38% believed they did not have the right clothing to ride a bike and 28% thought bicycling would make them too sweaty) ;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;what kinds of rain gear protect best for foul weather riding (34% though the weather is too unpredictable to ride in).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The survey focused on the Mission, Bayview, and Western Addition neighborhoods.&#xA;  For some related data, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gallup.com/poll/106249/wives-still-laundry-men-yard-work.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gallup poll&lt;/a&gt; found that 53% of American wives do the grocery shopping, vs 16% of husbands, and 54% of wives care for children on a daily basis, vs 9% for husbands. So, women are more likely to be responsible for more cargo transportation, namely children and groceries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What really made a difference for my wife was to buy an electric Yuba Mundo. We bought it online from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycle9.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cycle 9&lt;/a&gt; which is owned by two women and specializes in electric cargo bikes for transportation, and does a good job of online sales and support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife is more likely to be the one who will be dropping off a child at daycare on the way to work, or going to the farmer's market to buy a load of groceries with at least one child. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a regular bike, these things simply couldn't be accomplished with a reasonable amount of time, effort and sweat involved. I have a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/sets/72157623940164001/detail/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;annotated photos of our Electric Yuba Mundo&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGaNf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGaNf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flickr, and have also written about it a number of posts on &lt;a href=&quot;http://mark.stosberg.com/bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my blog&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T03:30:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T03:30:18.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2704" CreationDate="2011-08-21T02:23:00.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option for protecting a bike chain from the elements is a fully enclosed chain guard. Here's one at work on my bakfiets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/2253980256/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Full Enclosed Chainguard at work by Mark Stosberg, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2099/2253980256_f969f263bd.jpg&quot; width=&quot;375&quot; height=&quot;500&quot; alt=&quot;Full Enclosed Chainguard at work&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works so well, I intentionally choose this bike to ride on rainy or snowy, slushy days. I've had our bakfiets about 4 years now, and have only oiled the chain once that I recall, when the chaincase happened to be removed for some other maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the bakfiets, another bike available in the US with a fully-enclosed chainguard is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.breezerbikes.com/index.php/component/content/article/36-bicycles/89-uptown-infinity.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Breezer Uptown Infinity&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.853" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T02:47:49.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2011-08-21T02:34:15.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my own experience with electric assist bikes, 25 mph is a reasonable range to get out of a good system, and you could just buy a kit to update an existing bike, avoiding the expense of starting of scratch. Amped Bikes is one such vendors for kits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/sets/72157623940164001/detail/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Our electric bike&lt;/a&gt; can do about 20 mph on flat group without any pedaling. It would be reasonable to average between 15 and 20 mph for the trip, without putting in a huge amount of effort. You can charge the batteries while you work (for pennies) and ride home on a fresh charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What my wife has done is to use to heavy-assist going in, so she can get there faster and sweat less, and then pedal more on the way home, when she has more time and sweating is not an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the reduced time and effort involved, you'll be able to ride more often, and will also find that due to the extra assist, you'll be able to carry home heavier loads from the store then you were previously able to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple things my wife has asked me to pick up in the last week or so with our electric bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/6040472966/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Another bike trailer load too big for the car by Mark Stosberg, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm7.static.flickr.com/6083/6040472966_369fc45283.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;201&quot; alt=&quot;Another bike trailer load too big for the car&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/6054534376/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;My errand today: pick up child from day care by Mark Stosberg, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm7.static.flickr.com/6191/6054534376_dcc86225a0.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;253&quot; alt=&quot;My errand today: pick up child from day care&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.863" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T02:34:15.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-08-21T03:31:33.937" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Frame or frameset&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is the skeleton of a bicycle. It's the part that all other parts are attached to. (Some parts, like the front wheel, are attached to other parts that are in turn attached to the frame.) A frame plus a fork are often called a frameset. The frameset's geometry determines the bike's handling characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frames are usually made of steel, aluminum, carbon fiber, or titanium. Less common frame materials include bamboo, other types of wood, or magnesium alloy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum mountain bicycle frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2751486490/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;100_7864 by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3188/2751486490_a7f671d063.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;375&quot; alt=&quot;100_7864&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts of a bicycle frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FqByb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Image from wikipedia; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bicycle_Frame_Diagram-en.svg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;credit and legalese&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T20:53:50.607" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-21T03:31:33.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-08-21T03:47:29.060" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Lawyer Lips/ Lawyer Tabs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycle forks with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/404#404&quot;&gt;quick-release&lt;/a&gt; wheel mechanisms are often equipped with these. The intent is to make it less likely that the wheel will accidentally release if the quick-release lever is used improperly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/moy2d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lawyer lips&quot; /&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2951/is-it-safe-to-remove-lawyer-tabs-on-a-carbon-fork&quot;&gt;thanks to sk606&lt;/a&gt; for the image)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, they make it difficult to use the quick-release without unscrewing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4478#4478&quot;&gt;skewer&lt;/a&gt;, making the quick-release harder to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are named what the are because of the rumor that these were added to bikes for liability reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bikes with disk brakes they are properly promoted to the role of retaining ridges. Under braking loads the wheel tries to twist out of the dropouts and the ridges serve to prevent that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T02:12:00.427" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-21T03:47:29.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2011-08-21T12:42:01.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a thumb suck, I'd say that the ratio for commuters (to work) is maybe 8:1 here in the Rochester MN area.  In terms of recreational distance (longer than 1 mile, say) cyclists that you'd see out on a Saturday the ratio is probably 4:1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why no more female commuters?  First off, quite a few stay-at-home moms here, so the worker ratio is probably around 2:1 overall.  Beyond that, I suspect that women (in our culture) are less likely to think of/want to combine an athletic activity with commuting.  And then there's the whole hair thing (which I suppose is code for the fact that women tend to need to dress up more for work, especially in a white-collar community).  The major businesses in town do provide shower/locker areas, but only just adequate, and they're a rarity in the smaller businesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commuting to the grocery, etc, is relatively low across the board, since the area is set up as an auto community, with only maybe three neighborhood groceries left, and major quadrants of the city with no grocery at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'll add that the Rochester area is exceedingly safe by most standards, so security is likely not a major factor.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T12:42:01.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5570" CreationDate="2011-08-21T16:38:15.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure on the frame geometry of trial bikes but it looks like they have a very short &quot;top/down&quot; tube and the handle bars are nearly over the front axle. This gives you very poor handling at high speeds, hence the slow technical balancing riding that is done on them. Basically, they only have tire size in common...so which to choose depends on what you want to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T16:38:15.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5569" CreationDate="2011-08-21T17:46:15.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately after 3 months of average riding you will get &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; rub from disc brakes, because of the heating and cooling the disc gets slightly warped and shaped. If it is slowing down your wheel, as opposed to just heating it, then I suggest you get it serviced (bled and adjusted). I have pad control on my Avid Juicy 7's and only use it little, once dialed in it's where I like it for control purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1086" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T17:57:02.787" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T17:57:02.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2011-08-21T19:29:31.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;there is aerosol spray available at most hardware stores called PB Blaster it is much more effective when dealing with rust than WD=40&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2192" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T19:29:31.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5589" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-21T20:39:53.403" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:39:53.403" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:39:53.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5590" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-21T20:39:53.403" Score="0" Body="Bicycle components without which it's not a working bike: wheels, brakes, saddle/seat, bottom bracket, derailleur, stem, handlebars, bolts, etc. Also tag with specific part." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:39:53.403" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:39:53.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5591" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-21T20:50:08.180" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:50:08.180" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:50:08.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5592" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-21T20:50:08.180" Score="0" Body="Building the frame of a bicycle, starting with just a pile of tubes." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T20:50:08.180" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:50:08.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5593" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-21T22:00:03.750" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T22:00:03.750" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T22:00:03.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5594" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-21T22:00:03.750" Score="0" Body="Tools you use for repairing, maintaining, building, etc. Pump, chain breaker, wrenches, spoke tool, repair stand etc." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T22:00:03.750" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T22:00:03.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5595" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-21T22:01:10.813" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T22:01:10.813" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T22:01:10.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5596" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-21T22:01:10.813" Score="0" Body="Also called &quot;flat&quot;. Ways to avoid punctures, deal with punctures, etc." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="3700" LastEditDate="2012-03-21T06:08:40.620" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T06:08:40.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1519" CreationDate="2011-08-21T22:19:08.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're not anachronistic at all. The range of saddles offered by brooks are good for all types of cycling. I use the Brooks pro, never had a problem with it, and expect it to last some multiple of the ~7 years I've had it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there's nothing particularly magical about them. They're definitely stylish and for utility bikes, the wider Brooks models look far better than any other seat on the market. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For road bikes, Brooks are just one of several &quot;top-choice&quot; vendors that would definitely also include fizik and Selle Italia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T22:19:08.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5319" CreationDate="2011-08-21T22:46:42.990" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer to your first question is &quot;the power savings from using ceramic bearings compared to good steel bearings is almost zero.&quot; The short answer to your second question is &quot;yes, it is possible to measure the difference but it's not easy.&quot; The longer answer, and the support for the shorter answers is below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, however, it depends a little on whether you're talking wheel bearings, or bottom bracket bearings, or both. If you're interested in measuring the difference, the way you measure differs for the two. BB bearing drag would show up in differences in drivetrain efficiency, while hub bearings would show up as a component of rolling resistance. The difference, of course, is that drivetrain losses only occur when you're pedaling, not while you're coasting, while rolling losses occur as long as you're rolling, whether pedaling or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can measure differences in no-load hub bearing drag by holding the wheel up in the air with a fork, using a home-made speed sensor jury-rigged with a reed switch connected to a digital voice recorder. You spin the wheel up, then record and calculate the difference in timing &quot;clicks&quot; as the wheel decelerates. Swap bearings, lather, rinse, repeat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this would be in a no-load setting and you might think differences in bearing drag might be amplified in load-bearing situations. If so, you'd have to test that way. You could do it in the lab but it's also possible to do yourself, in the field, with the jury-rigged speed sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First some background. The rolling component of drag is typically measured by the coefficient of rolling resistance, Crr (the coefficient of aero drag is Cd, which is usually multiplied by the front surface area, A, and described by the combined term CdA). Crr can have a speed-dependent component but at cycling speeds this is negligible so we can assume Crr is constant. If so, the power demanded for moving a bike and rider at a given speed is pretty well known and understood: rather than go through it all here, I'll point to a (um, brilliant) method that allows you to estimate CdA and Crr which can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://anonymous.coward.free.fr/wattage/cda/indirect-cda.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you do all of this, you'll find that for a typical bike, the total overall Crr from all sources (tires, tubes, hub bearings, and typical &quot;smooth&quot; road surface) of around .005. The Crr for really good tires on that same surface might be .0045; for really lousy tires the Crr might be .006; and for a really rough surface the Crr might go as high as .01. And, some context if you look at the power equation linked to above, you see that Crr scales exactly like gradient in its effect on power so when the Crr is .01, the effect on power is exactly like climbing a 1% grade. Likewise, an increase in Crr of .001, due either to a different tire or to putative bearing differences, is just like climbing a grade 0.1% steeper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one more fact, also derivable from the link above: a rule of thumb is that at 25 mph on a flat hard surface, a cyclist in good aero position needs around 250 watts (an exceptional aero position is achievable with under 200 watts). At 25mph, a difference in Crr of about .0005 is roughly equivalent to a difference in power of 5 watts. That is, a difference between a good tire and a very good tire is worth about 5 watts at 25 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have done any field-testing of bicycle drag you'll realize that 5 watts difference in rolling resistance is pretty noticeable. Riders report that the difference between using ceramic and steel hub bearings is not noticeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T15:07:08.773" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T15:07:08.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2011-08-21T23:03:07.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't ride a mountain bike and I ride mostly in the city, but when conditions are wet, I always wear &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gemplers.com/product/9995/Tingley-Rubber-Overboots-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rubber overboots&lt;/a&gt;. They're cheap, durable and oh-so stylish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2103" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T23:03:07.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2011-08-21T23:19:07.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will show you a list of bike collectives in every country.  It's not complete yet, but it's the most up to date resource I've found.  You can then email a bike collective near you to get more information about bicycle advocacy in your neighborhood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2196" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T22:31:26.077" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T22:31:26.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="959" CreationDate="2011-08-22T00:41:45.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a couple of lockable boxes that mount to your rack. One is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://klickfix.com/en/products/detail/variants/0845K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KlickFix GTA Box&lt;/a&gt;. And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.otivia.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastEditorUserId="4141" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T18:26:55.397" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T18:26:55.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5671" CreationDate="2011-08-22T01:19:59.987" Score="13" ViewCount="2117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gates claims their belts do not stretch over their life, so theoretically speaking you should not have to adjust the tension (which appears finicky).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in anyone with real world experience. Do you ever have to adjust the tension of the belt, apart from when you have to move the back wheel for another reason, such as to change a tyre?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gates, who make the belts have a FAQ. I can't get a direct link, but if you go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/support.php&quot;&gt;http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/support.php&lt;/a&gt; under the question &quot;What are the benefits to the Carbon Drive systems?&quot; this is part of their answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No Stretch – The Carbon Drive belt does not stretch over time like a chain. This means you don’t have to re-tension the belt, or replace the belt due to stretch. This also means no excessive wear on pulleys due to stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this claim hold up in practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T13:16:08.620" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T06:31:20.003" Title="In practical terms, how often do you have to adjust the belt tension of a belt drive bicycle?" Tags="&lt;belt-drive&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2011-08-22T03:00:54.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've  tried several options here, including specialty options like Arkel's laptop bag with a shoulder strap. There are some things that I didn't like about carrying panniers off-bike. The attachment hardware adds extra weight that I'd prefer not to have. The hardware always seem to find a way to bump into my side, even when it's covered. And finally, sometimes I just don't to immediately be identified as a cyclist when I walk into room, based on the bags I'm carrying in.&#xA;(Orange bags with reflective strips don't go great with formal attire and settings)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to choose a bag that works for you off-bike, and find a way to carry that bag on your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Clarijs makes some large size panniers that made to reside on the bike. The would be large enough to drop another bag into:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/henryinamsterdam/5473721667/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;clarijs xl panniers black by henry in a'dam, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm6.static.flickr.com/5093/5473721667_bafc70596e.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;375&quot; alt=&quot;clarijs xl panniers black&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is a front rack. Workcycles has a giant, masculine box if that's your thing. It apparently isn't getting stolen while parked on the streets of Amsterdam, so it will likely survive live in your location as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/mindcaster-ezzolicious/6011829218/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Got myself a new bike crate. Correction: BIG ASS bike crate. No tourist can now use it as waste bin by Amsterdamize, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm7.static.flickr.com/6021/6011829218_6f958a5cc1.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;333&quot; alt=&quot;Got myself a new bike crate. Correction: BIG ASS bike crate. No tourist can now use it as waste bin&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cargo bikes like the XtraCycle, Yuba Mundo and bakfiets also have permanent storage capacity in the form of standard bags or boxes, and this is what I'm used to using frequently myself now. Here's the giant Go-Getter bag, which as you can see can easily swallow several other bags with in it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/4851175065/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Unplanned cargo: a watermelon and a dozen ears of corn by Mark Stosberg, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4851175065_7d02b09c1e.jpg&quot; width=&quot;375&quot; height=&quot;500&quot; alt=&quot;Unplanned cargo: a watermelon and a dozen ears of corn&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given all the above, my &quot;off-bike pannier&quot; is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.courierbags.com/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=130&amp;amp;Itemid=237&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Walking Bag by Courierware&lt;/a&gt;. It basically looks like a black shoulder bag. It's designed as a kind of small courier bag, but it doesn't scream &quot;CYCLIST ACCESSORY&quot; when you walk into a room due the smaller form factor. It is however basically waterproof and easy to fill and access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For simple, shorter trips, I can cinch down the strap and where it over my shoulder like a courier bag. For heavier loads or longer trips, I currently drop it into my XtraCycle bag and go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.933" LastActivityDate="2012-10-06T23:02:56.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2011-08-22T03:12:40.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend Neos Overshoes, which both my wife and I wear. You wear your regular shoes inside of these, and these &quot;overshoes&quot; add a little warmth, protection and traction, covering some of your pant leg as well as your shoes. They aren't the most attractive things out of the street, but you may arrive perfectly dry and clean at your destination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.overshoe.com/Pages/Product.aspx?category=Non-Insulated&amp;amp;cat=HLS-OVERSHOE&amp;amp;pid=VNN1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Voyager NEOS&lt;/a&gt;, but they have a less expensive &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.overshoe.com/Pages/Product.aspx?category=Non-Insulated&amp;amp;cat=HLS-OVERSHOE&amp;amp;pid=VIS1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Villager model&lt;/a&gt; as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nice thing about NEOS is their versatility. They are useful any time you need to go out in wet/dirty conditions, and are not just for cycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The don't &quot;clip in&quot;, but if that's important to you, you might consider a reversible pedal that is flat on one side and has a clip on the other. I use such pedals on one of my bikes that I use for both and long trips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T03:12:40.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2011-08-22T04:00:45.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much easier to wear cycling-specific clothing and just carry a change of clothes/shoes with you in a waterproof bag/pannier or leave some at work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything more than fenders and flaps is going to be a hassle to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T04:00:45.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5608" CreationDate="2011-08-22T09:13:38.377" Score="0" ViewCount="1065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm deciding between those two bikes and since I'm not a pro, I cannot spot many differences. I was hoping you guys could help me out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One notable difference I know of is that Mongoose Capture 11 has more rims than its competitor, I hope that's a good fact, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mongoose.com/bmx/2011-capture-18326&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mongoose Capture 2011&lt;/a&gt; specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Frame:  Full Hi-Ten&#xA;Fork:   Full Hi-Ten&#xA;Crank:  3pc Tubular Cromo, 170mm,33T steel chainring&#xA;Bottom Bracket:     Mid Sealed Bearing8 spline&#xA;Speeds:     1 Speed&#xA;Cog Set:    Odyssey 13t freewheel&#xA;Wheels Size:    20&quot;&#xA;Rims:   Alloy 36H front, 48H rear&#xA;Hubs:   36H Steel, 3/8&quot; axle&#xA;Tires:  Innova (F&amp;amp;R) 2.125&#xA;Pedals:     Mongoose Nylon Fiber&#xA;Brake:  Pro Rush with Pipeline cable&#xA;Handlebar:  Mongoose Hi-ten 7.5&quot;&#xA;Stem:   Mongoose Front Load50mm Ext.&#xA;Headset:    1-1/8&quot; Ahead&#xA;Brake Levers:   Rush RX402 hinged&#xA;Spokes:     ED Black Steel&#xA;Grips:  Mongoose Kraton&#xA;Saddle:     Mongoose Slim&#xA;Seat Post:  25.4 straight steel&#xA;Seat Clamp:     Alloy single bolt slim&#xA;Extras:     1 pair axle pegs &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gtbicycles.com/bikes/bmx/street/2011-slammer-white&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GT Slammer 2011&lt;/a&gt; specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Type of Frame   GT freestyle design, Steel tubes, DT gusset, American BB, seat stay mounted U-brake, GYRO cable guides&#xA;Fork    GT freestyle design, hi-ten 1-1/8&quot; steer, 31.8mm hi-ten blades, 6mmT. Dropouts&#xA;Crankset Chainwheel     Forged steel one piece crank, 170mm / 33T steel GT design&#xA;Bottom Bracket  American loose ball type&#xA;Cog Set     DNP 13T. Cr-mo&#xA;Chain   KMC Z510&#xA;Rims    Alex G303, pinned aluminum, 32F/36R hole&#xA;Front Hub   Steel body, 3/8&quot; heat treated axle, 32 hole&#xA;Rear Hub    Steel body, 14mm hi-carbon axle, 36 hole, single FW threads&#xA;Spokes  14G&#xA;Nipples     Brass&#xA;Tires   GT Air Bags, 2.1&quot;&#xA;Pedals  GT Jump design, PP material&#xA;Front Brake     Rush 900D, aluminum Caliper&#xA;Rear Brake  Rush 933D, aluminum U-brake&#xA;Brake Levers    Tektro 289A full aluminum lever and clamp&#xA;Handlebar   GT dirt/street Steel, 7&quot; rise&#xA;Stem    GT freestyle drop design, machined GT logo&#xA;Headset     1-1/8&quot; threadless, steel&#xA;Grips   GT Wing shroom design&#xA;Saddle  GT Slim mini street design, 8mm rails&#xA;Seat Post   Steel, 25.4mm x 200mmL.&#xA;Seat Clamp  Alloy Single bolt&#xA;Extras  SST ORYG, one pair GT 36mm OD x 97mm forged steel pegs&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After what @mathew suggests, I have found 2 other competitors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gtbicycles.com/bikes/bmx/street/2011-performer-polish-silver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GT Performer 2011&lt;/a&gt; for $369, of which the description says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Type of Frame   GT Freestyle Design Frame with Cr-mo main tubes, machined 1-1/8&quot; headtube, 19mm CS, DT gusset, Mid BB, seat stay mounted U-brake, and GYRO cable guides&#xA;Fork    GT freestyle design, Cr-Mo 1-1/8&quot; steer, 31.8mm hi-ten blades, 6mmT. Dropouts&#xA;Crankset Chainwheel     GT tubular Cr-Mo 3pc., 8T spline, single bolt clamping, 175mm / 25T steel GT design&#xA;Bottom Bracket  Mid size sealed bearings, 8 spline Cr-Mo axle&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Versus &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mongoose.com/bmx/2011-article-18315&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mongoose Article 2011&lt;/a&gt; for $329, which has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Frame:  CromoFront Triangle&#xA;Fork:   Cromo Steerer&#xA;Crank:  3pc Tubular Cromo, 175mm,25T steel chainring&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is any of these latter two better/worse, or are they the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="1458" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T14:35:39.100" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T15:07:56.123" Title="Could anyone help me resolve the differences between these two BMX bikes?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2011-08-22T11:13:17.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak for the Marathon or Marathon Plus, but I've got some puncture-resistant experience to share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did a 400 km (250 miles) trip, over a dozen days, on various surfaces (more on that later) using &lt;strong&gt;Continental&lt;/strong&gt; tires for the two bikes and &lt;strong&gt;Schwalbe Big Apple&lt;/strong&gt; tires for the children trailer (Burley).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And we're really glad we did replace the standard tire from both bikes and trailer as we didn't experience any flat, we didn't re-inflate any of the tires even once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our trip was mostly hard dirt (maybe 60-65%), plus some asphalt or concrete (30-35%) and some gravel/sandy/other grounds. Overall, we didn't feel the tires to be heavy or anything like that, but we were heavily loaded anyway (trailer for me, rear bags for my companion), so it doesn't mean much. I can say I felt &lt;em&gt;reduced&lt;/em&gt; drag from the trailer when we switched from the stock tires to the Schwalbe, as well as &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; smoother ride over gravel and lightly bumpy roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the puncture part... With my 'big' trailer, I had to make my bike go over lots of thorny stuff to avoid holes and rocks and other hazards on the track, the worst part during about 15-20 kms (9-13 miles). So both my bike's wheels plus the left wheel of the trailer went over lots of thorns, and probably the other bike some also (as she hadn't a two-wheeled trailer behind, she was more free to avoid thorns, holes, rocks, etc. than me). And I hit a lot of 'bad' stones, some of them quite sharp, but always at reduced speed (&amp;lt; 10 kph / 6.25 mph) to avoid sending the trailer flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We didn't fully appreciate the puncture resistance before we met some other cyclists who just went over the same thorny/rocky/bumpy section as we did, and spent a lot of time fixing tires/tubes as all of them experienced punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &lt;em&gt;we're very happy with our tires&lt;/em&gt;. I'm not 100% sure of the actual model of the Continental, GatorSkin doesn't ring a bell and the tread doesn't look right. I think they're in fact this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gearbuyer.com/products/continental_travel_contact_tire_26_x_1.75.html&quot;&gt;Continental Travel Contact&lt;/a&gt;. There is also a 'City' model: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gearbuyer.com/products/continental_city_ride_tire.html&quot;&gt;Continental City Ride&lt;/a&gt;. Note: I picked the website in search results, not suggesting it at all, we bought our bikes and had them fitted with new tires in a local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1260" LastEditorUserId="1260" LastEditDate="2011-08-24T13:34:36.790" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T13:34:36.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5606" CreationDate="2011-08-22T13:22:35.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heart of a bicycle is the frame - even on a BMX. Both of the models that you are looking at use high-tensile steel rather than steel alloyed with chromium and molybdenum ('cr-mo' steel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a normal bicycle made of high-tensile steel the problem is the weight - the frame (and fork) weighs significantly more than it would be if it was made of a better 'cr-mo' steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a BMX bike the problem with high-tensile steel is not just the added weight. High tensile steel bends whereas 'cr-mo' steel flexes. You need this flex if the bike is to survive crashes as well as intended heavy impacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that there is a premium attached to 'cr-mo' frame/fork many manufacturers replace one or more tubes in a high-tensile steel frame with 'cr-mo' tube(s). They can then put a sticker on the frame claiming it is 'cr-mo'. This gives the impression that the frame is 'cr-mo' when it might be mostly high tensile steel. Therefore, when comparing bikes, look at the frame and fork to see how much of it is 'cr-mo' and how much of it is high-tensile steel. Get this detail right and go from there. Components can be replaced - if the bike comes with cheap plastic pedals then you can upgrade them to something more desirable when they break for a modest amount of money. So get the frame right and look for something with 'cr-mo' at least in the main tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The GT Article and the Mongoose Performer are very similar in specification. The separate seat clamp on the GT is a neat touch, the frame also appears to be chrome plated rather than painted. Personally I prefer the chrome plating as it can be polished up very easily to remove rust spots whereas the painted frame shows damage that bit more evidently. There is little to choose between the components, so on the basis of the chrome plated frame I would check that it is (and not just painted silver) and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slight complication and opportunity is with the pricing. There are new 2012 versions out of both of these bikes. Some dealers may therefore want to discount the 'shop soiled' 2011 models that they have in stock so that they can get the 2012 models in. You may want to look at the differences in the model years to see what those differences are, maybe it only comes down to paint scheme, but, with a bit of shopping around, you might be able to get yourself a deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T15:07:56.123" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T15:07:56.123" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5569" CreationDate="2011-08-22T13:44:52.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are not alone. These brakes require constant adjustment and are not fit for purpose. The recommendation is to upgrade to Avid BB7's or a hydraulic system. Read the litany of complaints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/brakes/disc-brake-system/avid/bb5-mechanical-disc-brake/prd_414627_1507crx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/brakes/disc-brake-system/avid/bb5-mechanical-disc-brake/prd_414627_1507crx.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you tear them off the bike in disgust you may want to take a read of the Park Tool instructions for adjusting Avid mechanical disk brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/avid-reg-mechanical-disc-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/avid-reg-mechanical-disc-adjustment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This explains quite clearly how the brakes actually work - the outer pad moves whereas the inner pad does not. The disk gets pushed across by the outer pad to hit the inner pad. Note that the more expensive BB7's allow more adjustment and that the even more expensive hydraulic systems work differently, pushing both pads out to meet the disc rather than just 'bending it across'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good rim brakes are better than cheap disc brakes and your bike unfortunately has the latter. I recommend that you upgrade the brakes to the best mechanical system you can afford rather than spend any more time trying to adjust what sounds to me to be a flawed product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T13:44:52.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2011-08-22T15:58:03.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A light bike is so much more fun to ride than a heavy one that you'll be more likely to ride the light one.  Also, I find that on my lighter bike, since it's easier to go faster, I'm always pushing to go as fast as I can (because fast is fun).  On the heavy bike, it's so much work that I end up going slow and ultimately not working as hard.  An hour on the heavy bike and I'll not even be tired.  An hour on the light bike and I'm exhausted and the muscles are burning and will be sore for a day or 2!  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastEditorUserId="349" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T18:23:42.933" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T18:23:42.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-22T16:18:13.410" Score="27" ViewCount="48294" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the factors that should affect whether my visibility will be higher with a &quot;high visibility Yellow&quot; vs. a &quot;high visibility Orange&quot; vest or jacket?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems too simplistic to simply say &quot;Yellow is better&quot; or &quot;Orange is better' - there are a number of conditions that I often note affect my perceived visibility (n-1): day/night, foggy vs. direct sun, perhaps the ambient foliage? I want to separate this question from discussions of retroreflective strips, retroreflective tapes, or nighttime lights - I'm trying to understand the differences between the two colors first and foremost with this question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have reviewed the following questions but did not find discussions of color-based visibility:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/296/how-can-i-make-my-bike-and-myself-visible-at-night&quot;&gt;How can I make my bike (and myself) visible at night?&lt;/a&gt; - Focuses exclusively on night-time conditions, primarily focuses on retroreflectivity and adding lights to the bike&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2355/night-cycling-is-it-worth-using-electroluminescent-wire&quot;&gt;Night cycling: Is it worth using electroluminescent wire?&lt;/a&gt; - Same as above&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2488/is-fluorescent-clothing-effective&quot;&gt;Is fluorescent clothing effective?&lt;/a&gt; - Does not address different color options for high visibility clothing  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2823" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2021-03-30T15:38:04.027" Title="Safety vests: Yellow vs. Orange?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;visibility&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5621" CreationDate="2011-08-22T16:32:38.297" Score="23" ViewCount="20650" Body="&lt;p&gt;What exactly are they measuring? How do they measure it? What are the implications of the different approaches on accuracy / speed of getting a good measure?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful if someone could give an answer that explains how hub-based meters like the PowerTap differ from the crank-based meters like the Quarq which differ from the other ones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2823" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T09:25:53.417" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T18:42:28.467" Title="How do bicycle power meters work?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5611" CreationDate="2011-08-22T16:33:04.380" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmiJr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The human eye is more sensitive to some colours, peak sensitivity is at the yellow-green portion of the visible spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So generally speaking, a yellow vest or jacket should be better than an orange one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T16:33:04.380" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5611" CreationDate="2011-08-22T16:48:52.423" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best approach here is one of convention rather than the physics of color sensitivity, in other words, consideration for what makes the most sense to an approaching driver. In north america, &quot;slow moving vehicles&quot; (such as farm tractors and Amish buggies) use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/dandv/vehicle/smvs.shtml&quot;&gt;an orange triangle with a red border&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of such markings is to communicate to the driver what is front of them with as little cognitive load as possible. With orange, you more clearly convey &quot;slow moving vehicle&quot; or maybe &quot;traffic cone&quot;. With yellow, the driver might have to have to think about whether that yellow blob ahead is a cyclist or traffic sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it doesn't matter too much. The important thing is to have significant contrast with the rest of the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One side-issue to keep in mind is that the time when visibility is most degraded is NOT at night. The worst time for visibility is at dawn or dusk, when there is enough light to &quot;see&quot; everything, but not enough light for good visual contrast between things on/near the road. For this reason, your most important safety device is a nice bright rear light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T16:48:52.423" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5612" CreationDate="2011-08-22T17:06:38.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, power meters all work by measuring force (or torque) and a speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_(physics)#Mechanical_power&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_(physics)#Mechanical_power&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(t) = F(t) * v(t)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Power = Force * velocity&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pedal or crank based power meter will be measuring either how much torque is applied to the cranks.  That combined with your cadence gives you the power output (add in time and you have the total work done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hub based power meter is measuring the torque applied to the hub by the drivetrain and combining that with speed or wheel rotation counts to do the same basic math and calculate the power output there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, one measures the power going into the drivetrain, the other measures power coming out of the drivetrain.  If you had both, the hub power meter would show a slightly smaller amount of power due to power lost in the drivetrain.  A bicycle drivetrain is very efficient however (especially when well maintained), so I wouldn't worry about the very small difference. To some extent it may depend whether you care more about your power output or the power output of the entire rider+bicycle system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual underlying physical mechanism is probably a strain gauge consisting of thin wire running zig-zag over a beam that bends slightly as force is applied. Bending the wires changes the electrical resistance. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strain_gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strain_gauge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard of power meters that measure force to the pedals. I assume they need to be told the length of the cranks. I've also heard of systems that measure chain vibration to calculate the tension on the chain to get force/torque information to calculate power output. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T17:06:38.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5611" CreationDate="2011-08-22T17:32:06.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yellow and orange high visibility vests both do a good job of reflecting light. The Wikipedia article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-visibility_clothing&quot;&gt;high-visibility clothing&lt;/a&gt; mentions the first use of 'safety' orange&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Experimental use of high-visibility clothing began in 1964 on the&#xA;  Scottish Region. Fluorescent orange jackets, known as &quot;fire-flies&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What isn't clear in the article is how effective the orange colour is. It was noted however 'the rate of deaths and injuries on the rail network has been reduced considerably'. I don't think there is enough research to prove any major difference between the two.&#xA;Perhaps at the time it was about distinguishing rail workers from public service workers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's also a matter of preference, from a UK site that sells &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hivizextras.co.uk/vests.html?gclid=CMSdoKi346oCFQEf4Qod3Ckq6g&quot;&gt;high-vis jackets&lt;/a&gt; the choice of colour appears rather inconsequential. What ever colour you choose it's likely that the retroreflective stripes will be the most effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T17:42:44.133" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T17:42:44.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5611" CreationDate="2011-08-22T17:32:15.513" Score="18" Body="&lt;h2&gt;YELLOW - and according to EN471...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are regulations for high visibility clothing used by people that work on highways. Their employers have a duty of care to make sure they are in the correct HV wear. In the UK the standard is BS EN471 and this applies pretty much the same across the whole EU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3M - the people that pioneered high visibility clothing - have a summary guide.&#xA;Of note in the guide is the reflective bands and their placement. For a tabard they go something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/Scotch-Lite/Home/RegInfo/LocalHiVisRegs/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/Scotch-Lite/Home/RegInfo/LocalHiVisRegs/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4jHlB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it is best to stick to the standards deemed appropriate by the experts on this matter. That means buying a tabard for less than a fiver from some place that sells work wear. That does not mean spending £30 to get some cyclist version of the high-visibility wear that does not pay attention to the EN471 standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let's stick to conventions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another really good reason to wear that greeny-yellow is that it is a convention. Motorists recognise cyclists as cyclists when wearing that particular colour. With flourescent pink they have to think about it, with orange they wonder if that is a dustman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10% of us males are red/green colourblind!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Orange was the original high visibility colour for railways in the UK. To get a job as a train driver you have to be able to see properly. Therefore orange worked very well, sticking to the convention of using orange as a hazard colour (with red as stop and green as go).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no colour blindness test in the driving test. With one in ten males not able to discern red and green properly the yellow-green colour trumps the orange that is nearer red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a study that goes into this in more depth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dartmouth.edu/%7Esullivan/bike/colorbv.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.dartmouth.edu/~sullivan/bike/colorbv.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a couple of handy diagrams. This one has tarmac grey and 'ambient foliage' with a spectrum of bright colours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ver1H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the average colour blind person sees:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ys0fw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The practicalities of dirt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I wear orange on some days (my orange top has sleeves that are useful in the winter cold) and yellow on other days (it has no sleeves). The observation I have made with the orange jacket is that it gets dimmer with dirt whereas dirt tends to contrast on the yellow-green top. This is true for diesel particulate dirt as well as random patches of oil etc. The EN471 spec does have a few words about keeping high visibility garments clean for them to work, this seems more crucial with the orange colour. This is only anecdotal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T03:10:21.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5611" CreationDate="2011-08-22T17:42:25.443" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that, in practical terms, the difference isn't great. The longer answer requires some explanation of &quot;visual conspicuity.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In optical engineering, conspicuity is the study of what makes things &quot;conspicuous,&quot; and some researchers split the tasks into &quot;detection&quot; and &quot;identification&quot; (see, for example, the works of A. Toet et al, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://people.usd.edu/~schieber/materials/Visual_Conspicuity_measurement_TNO.pdf&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;). Because the rods and cones in our eyes have differential sensitivity to light and color, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ambulancevisibility.com/index.php?p=2_2&quot;&gt;some colors are more easily detected in low-light conditions&lt;/a&gt;, such as dusk or dawn (the rods are more sensitive than the cones but are essentially insensitive to color -- that's why all cats are grey in the dark). However there's still the &quot;identification&quot; task, and that's where the choice among high-visibility, naturally-rare, colors matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, in order to be conspicuous, you want both to be detected and to be identified as a cyclist. Experiments with the visually impaired (and color blind) show that contrast is the key. Contrast can be achieved by shape, motion (which is why emergency vehicles have blinking lights: to achieve &quot;optical&quot; motion), and color. What this means is that the color you wear should be differentiable from the background, so you want a color that is both detectable in a crowded visual field and also that is uncommon -- or rather, uncommon compared to other objects in the visual field but common to cyclists so that you can be identified as one (cf. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.access-board.gov/research/dw-fhwa/report.htm&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0022437586900022&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). The fluorescent colors of high-visibility yellow-green and high-visibility orange are pretty unnatural so the likelihood that it will be &quot;lost&quot; in the visual field is low but in addition, the fluorescent yellow-green seems to be commonly used only by cyclists and emergency workers (like firemen) -- at least, in the US. Conversely, hunters wear orange both because it's not just a good idea, it's THE LAW, but also because it's instantly identifiable by the conventions of hunting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the bottom line is that both are detectable though there may be some (slight) advantage to using the color that is most commonly associated in the public view with cyclists since it is both highly detectable and also identifiable. Should you be riding in an area where another color is (predominately?) associated with cyclists you might decide, of course, to use that instead; for example, during some long-distance randonnees (see, for example, the requirements for the quadrennial Paris-Brest-Paris ride), the organizers may require that the cyclists wear a belt or vest or other device of a particular shape or color so that drivers can instantly recognize and identify the carrier of such a device as a cyclist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T14:05:17.813" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T14:05:17.813" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-22T18:01:45.987" Score="5" ViewCount="3111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1991 Bridgestone RB-T.  This bike has passed through many hands so much of the stock parts are gone.  The original Dia Compe XCE brake arms have been replaced by Dimension canti arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem involves the canti braze-ons.  After examining other bikes with cantilever brakes these pivots seem to be located differently.  The placement is much closer to the rim itself.  Judging from pictures of the Dia Compe brakes the pad holder was located outside the pivot.  The Dimension arms place the pad holder way too far inside of the brake pivot.  The pads are installed without any adjustment washers on the inside and all the way to the bottom of the slot.  Even with these compromises they aren't located properly and start to hit the tire if I don't watch them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a Dia Compe XCE replacement?  Is there really a difference in where the canti braze-ons were located for these brakes?  I just want an OEM brake that will work for pad clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2201" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T14:13:58.033" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T15:35:38.580" Title="Dia Compe Brakes for 1991 Bridgestone RB-T" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2011-08-22T18:59:30.383" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's already a cacophony of answers, but their detail obscures the simple response to your question: no, a heavier bike will not help you get fit easier than a light bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put, you will output the same amount of power independent of the weight of the bike you are riding. On a heavier bike, you will just go slower than you would have otherwise on a lighter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: The one counterexample to this is if you participate in group training rides. If you ride on a heavier bike than the rest of your group, assuming you keep up with them, you're (probably) getting a better workout than you would had you been riding on a lighter bike. However, the difference isn't as much as advancing to a more strenuous route with a faster-paced group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T21:39:33.673" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T21:39:33.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5612" CreationDate="2011-08-22T19:06:53.077" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several different types of power meter on the market and each measures something slightly different in order to make their estimates. In addition, the way that they measure what they measure has implications for their accuracy. Below I discuss what the major models measure, how they measure it, and the implications for accuracy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power is the rate of work (so you need to know the amount of work and the span of time over which that work is done), and work is a force exerted over a distance, so each power meter has a different way to measure those forces and, because of patents, each has chosen to measure them in a different &quot;location.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the exception of the iBike, most power meters measure the forces somewhere along the drivetrain: working from the back to the front, the PowerTap (and the old Look MaxOne) measures at the rear hub, the older Polar systems measured along the chain, the Quarq, SRM, Rotor, and Power2Max measure at the spider of the front chain ring, the new Look/Polar and Garmin Metrigear (thus far, announced but unreleased) measure at the pedal spindle, the (announced but unreleased) Brim Brothers measures at the shoe cleat, the Ergomo measured at the bottom bracket, and the Stages measures at the left crank. The iBike measures in a completely different way, discussed below. One consequence of measuring at various points along the drivetrain is that drivetrain losses will (or won't) be accounted for to a different degree; for example, a PowerTap will usually read lower than a SRM since one is &quot;upstream&quot; of most drivetrain losses while the other is &quot;downstream.&quot; This difference is more of a definitional issue than a strict &quot;accuracy&quot; issue (in the sense of, &quot;is gross income or net income a more 'accurate' measure of income?&quot; Unless you have a specific use in mind, it's hard to say which is more &quot;accurate&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the power meters on the market use strain gages, which are small thin foil strips whose electrical conductance and resistance varies as they are deformed. Strain gages are used in lots of applications (like, bridges) and their properties are well-understood. In general, strain gages are combined in a &quot;rosette&quot; or &quot;Wheatstone bridge&quot; in order to produce more accuracy and precision (more strain gages usually produce better results), and, when operating properly the Power Tap, Quarq, and SRM are usually accurate to within a couple percent (and, just as importantly, with high precision); this has been verified both statically (using known weights hung from the crank) and also dynamically (using a large powered rolling drum in a lab). The forces are then combined with a measurement of angular velocity or speed to get power. A virtue of strain gages is that the change in resistance can be measured even when the device is stationary so the cyclist can measure the accuracy of the strain-gage-based power meters at home by hanging weights of a known mass from the crank. A common problem with the strain gage approach, however, is that they can be sensitive to changes in temperature and so need to be &quot;re-zeroed&quot; prior to (and sometimes, during) rides. The old Look MaxOne's achilles heel was waterproofness, not the strain gages or method of measurement. For example, the original Power2Max (and the old discontinued SRM &quot;Amateur&quot; model) uses fewer strain gages than the current PowerTap, Quarq, or SRM models and reports from users (subsequently admitted to by the manufacturer) showed that it was more sensitive to temperature drift during a ride than those others. The Power2Max was redesigned and updated in late 2012 and reports are that the temperature problem has been largely addressed. A claimed feature of the Stages is that it is designed around automatic temperature compensation&amp;nbsp;— as of early 2013 this claim is still being evaluated by users and it is too early to know if their approach does what it claims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old Polar power meter measured the force transmitted along the chain by chain tension, and included a chain speed sensor to get total work. In a chain higher force transmitted along the chain results in higher tension, and tension can be measured by the resonant frequency of the object (for example, plucking a highly-tensioned spoke with your fingernail produces a high frequency tone while plucking a loose spoke produces a low tone). As an historical aside, the proof-of-concept prototype for the Polar chain tension sensor was the pickup from an electric guitar. The chain speed sensor fit on one of the derailleur jockey wheels and could count the &quot;pulses&quot; in the magnetic field as the chain rivets passed; since chain rivets are a known distance apart, chain speed was easily calculated. As for accuracy, when the Polar was operating well, it was very good; however, when it wasn't it was very naughty indeed. Worse, it was often hard to tell when it was being naughty. The downfall of the old Polar power meter was three-fold: 1) the chain tension sensor needed to be close to the chain, which was hard to achieve since the chain sometimes had to be in the large or small chain ring or the large or small rear cog; 2) the chainspeed sensor sometimes got overwhelmed and gave false speed readings; and 3) incomplete weatherproofness in part due to exposed wires and a poorly sealed &quot;pod.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ergomo bottom-bracket based power meter used an optical sensor and a series of &quot;peek holes&quot; to measure torsion in the bottom bracket. An odd characteristic of this design is that it could only measure the (torsional) force traveling through the bottom bracket; thus, it only measured the power contributed by the left leg: to get total power it doubled the left-leg contribution. In conjunction with the difficulty in installing and calibrating the Ergomo (it had to be installed &lt;em&gt;just exactly so&lt;/em&gt;), this dependence on bilateral symmetry between the legs was the death knell for the Ergomo. The Stages power meter similarly measures force by deformation in the left crank, and doubles the &quot;left&quot; to arrive at an estimate of total power. Research with instrumented force pedals shows that bilateral asymmetry in power production between the right and left legs is the norm&amp;nbsp;— worse, the research shows that the asymmetry can change with the level of effort. However, some riders are willing to accept this inherent inaccuracy and imprecision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because neither the old Polar nor Ergomo power meters used strain gages, their accuracy and precision could not be statically checked in the field by the cyclist; they could only be checked dynamically (or against anotheher known-calibrated power meter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unreleased Garmin Metrigear and Brim Brothers pedal or pedal cleat power meters are rumored to use piezoelectric sensors and solid state accelerometers rather than foil strain gages but until they reach the market all claims about accuracy or precision should be taken with grains of salt. An interesting problem in the design of a pedal- or cleat-based power meter is that the direction of force and the position of the pedal spindle must be known: for example, if you add downward force at the bottom of the pedal stroke, that is wasted force since it does not aid in moving the crank in the correct direction; likewise, if you press down (however slightly) on the upstroke, that will cancel out some of the force exerted by the other leg on its downstroke. Keeping track of the various force vectors is therefore key to getting reliable accuracy and precision. To some extent, the Stage power meter can also occasionally be susceptible to a related problem: the Stages uses a solid-state accelerometer in the pedal (similar to the solid-state accelerometers one can find in smart phones) to determine its position. Early production models of the Stages were plagued by imprecise measurements of pedal position, so pedal speed was also imprecise&amp;nbsp;— and this had repercussions for the precision of the final power estimates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recently released (as of January 2012) Look/Polar power meter uses strain gages arrayed along the pedal spindle, and each pedal must be carefully installed so the pedals know which direction the forces are being applied -- a special tool is supplied with the pedals to help with the orientation. To simplify the conversion of measured forces to torque values, the Look/Polar pedal allows the use of only four different crank lengths: 170mm, 172.5mm, 175mm, and 177.5mm. Cranks shorter than 170mm are currently not supported. One pedal is the &quot;master&quot; and the other is the &quot;slave&quot;; the slave pedal transmits information to the master which then bundles data from both pedals and forwards it to the head unit. At the moment, the Look/Polar pedal uses its own transmission protocol and no other manufacturer has yet signed on to provide compatible head units. Early reports on the new Look pedals confirm that the orientation of the pedals is critical: because the spindle of a pedal is small, a small absolute error in alignment can be a large relative error in its angular orientation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The iBike takes a completely different approach: it calculates power indirectly. That is, you need a certain amount of power to overcome changes in potential energy (climbing or descending), for changes in kinetic energy (accelerating or decelerating), to overcome aerodynamic drag (including the wind) and drag from rolling resistance so if you know ground speed, gradient, wind speed, your total mass (you plus bike and all equipment) then combined with estimates of the coefficients of rolling resistance (Crr) and of aero drag and front surface area (CdA or drag area) you can calculate the overall power (see, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://content.lib.utah.edu/cgi-bin/showfile.exe?CISOROOT=/ir-main&amp;amp;CISOPTR=27505&amp;amp;CISOMODE=print&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). In essence, the other power meters on the market focus on the &quot;supply side equation&quot; by measuring power supplied by the rider somewhere along the drivetrain; the iBike focuses on the &quot;demand side&quot; by measuring power demanded to move the bike against wind, gradient, and other drag forces. Under normal conditions, this can be quite (perhaps even surprisingly) accurate, though the precision of the power estimated in this way is not as good -- the iBike assumes that the aerodynamic drag area (aka CdA) is constant, so if the rider changes position (say, moving from the drops to the bar tops) or if the wind speed differs because the yaw angle changes, the power estimate will be off. In general, the iBike has been shown to be quite accurate for hill climbs; less so for rolling courses or riding in a pack, so the overall accuracy will depend on the exact mix of riding done and the variability in the direction of the wind. As with the non-strain gage based old Polar and Ergomo, the iBike cannot be statically checked for accuracy or precision; worse, nor can it be checked on a dynamic rig in a lab since it depends on gradient and wind speed. Checks of the iBike have been performed in the field when riders have mounted another power meter on the same bike and compared the two data streams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been a few &quot;simultaneous&quot; comparisons of power meter accuracy where one rider mounted two or more power meters on the bike and went on structured or unstructured rides. You can see one such &quot;Rosetta Stone&quot; comparison &lt;a href=&quot;http://anonymous.coward.free.fr/wattage/rosetta/rosetta.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://anonymous.coward.free.fr/wattage/rosetta/rosetta-details.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, all of the commercially released power meters have been accurate (and sometimes precise) when newly-adjusted and performing under ideal conditions. However, conditions are not always ideal and parts get damaged, dirty, and deteriorate. If accuracy and precision are important then the &quot;design&quot; accuracy (whether based on strain gages, optical sensors, magnetic sensors, or wind speed sensors) is only half the battle: equally important is the ability to verify a power meter at home so you can tell when they're off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="263" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T18:42:28.467" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T18:42:28.467" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-06-10T16:17:34.423" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5619" CreationDate="2011-08-22T19:11:33.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little googling suggests that you should be able to get a set of XCEs on ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T19:11:33.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5619" CreationDate="2011-08-22T21:21:19.183" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advert for &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/1994/pages/47.htm&quot;&gt;Bridgestone RB-T&lt;/a&gt; showing brake placement to be a lot closer than standard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ifUrZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes look like Deore LX cantilevers from the early 1990's (these were available in both silver and black):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQKvw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would agree that you have a problem. You may want to put narrow 20mm rims on the bike to mitigate the problem. You could source some early 1990's Shimano/Suntour/Dia-Compe brakes that catered well with touring as well as mountain bikes. Dia-Compe 986's were the first ones to be 'low profile' yet still use the 'brake blocks on stalks' (as opposed to the nut and bolt ones). There were also examples from Shimano and the Suntour badged Dia-Compe models. Pads are also a consideration. When Shimano XTR came out the pads became longer and thinner. In the UK Aztec make replacements for these (with the 'stalks') and they are widely available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you may also want to look for are the very early cantilevers that stuck out a long way. Dia Compe 983's are the classic example. There is a problem with these if you are using panniers on the back and if you have anything but a small frame size - they poke out into the pannier bag and get wedged on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for getting hold of some of these early cantilevers, try your LBS as they may have some knocking about in the workshop that they may let you have for a small fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reposted from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/vintage-retro-classic/looking-source-fork-brake-mount-specs-490337.html&quot;&gt;MTBR forums&lt;/a&gt; for future reference, the specifications of how cantilever bosses should be done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EgLbi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4fH6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67fjf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KsGFX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T22:09:28.017" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T22:09:28.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2011-08-22T22:14:56.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK we have the Cyclists Touring Club:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ctc.org.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One organisation that used to have a sharp political edge is Carbusters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://carbusters.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://carbusters.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget that the cycle trade has advocacy in the industry. One UK site of note is BikeBiz:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebiz.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikebiz.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T22:14:56.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5611" CreationDate="2011-08-23T01:58:46.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly suspect that the color difference is statistically insignificant.  Probably of more importance is the shape/size and other attributes that help to catch the eye.  Except in dense fog (where a flashing light is the best option), the problem is not so much being seen as being recognized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T01:58:46.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5628" CreationDate="2011-08-23T13:00:53.840" Score="3" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a belt on a belt-drive bicycle stretch under load and then elastically return?&#xA;The only current manufacturer I know (Gates Carbon Drive) claims the belt does not stretch over its useful lifetime, but my question is does it stretch under load and then return?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have read some forum posts (can't find them now), that say they stretch under load, so are no good for power applications such as single-speed racing. This argument would not seem to hold up since Gates now have a single speed racing team and they've &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.carbondrivesystems.com/?p=1092&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;won some races&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any factual information or practical experience that can answer whether the belt stretches under load and elastically returns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related question is if there is some slight elasticity would that help prevent the damage that can be caused to internal hubs from changing gears under heavy load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T17:07:11.320" Title="Do belts on belt-drive bicycles stretch under load and spring back? Reputedly they don't stretch over their lifetime" Tags="&lt;belt-drive&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2924" CreationDate="2011-08-23T13:51:46.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that advocacy organizations absolutely must operate at very local, municipal scales. Why? because every town is different and has its own unique physical, legislative, and cultural landscape. Some places struggle simply with basic acceptance of the concept of a bicycle on the road, others are concerned with expansion of sharrows/lanes/signage/parking dedicated to bikes, others still are implementing bike-sharing systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think in many towns you'll find the following categories of advocacy groups. Some are more active than others, but all of them contribute in some way to better cycling in general. These organizations are the ones that are doing the nitty-gritty work in the towns in which they operate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am taking the word &quot;political&quot; somewhat loosely, some of these groups directly interface with governments, others work indirectly by influencing public perception or working towards specific causes which is perhaps even MORE critical to success in the long term than government interaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sports&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.baltobikeclub.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycling clubs&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lateralstressvelo.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;racing teams&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thevelodrome.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;velodromes&lt;/a&gt;) &#xA;Some transportation advocates marginalize sports as a fringe activity but in fact it puts cycling in a positive light as far as the general public is concerned. Seeing cyclists training or on group rides organized by clubs gets people used to the idea of cyclists. Races generate interest, business activity, and a desire to see more local athletes compete in regional, national and international levels. Towns that are lucky enough to have velodrome, I think, can really leverage a positive spin on cycling because it becomes a spectator sport that is intertwined with the local community. As a result, riding a bike whether for sport, leisure, or transportation becomes something ordinary or even &quot;cool&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pure advocacy&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.transalt.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Transportation Alternatives&lt;/a&gt; [NYC], &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikemd.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Maryland&lt;/a&gt;) &#xA;These organizations spearhead real change in municipalities by having professionals interface with government to enact ordinances like the three foot rule, public education campaigns, and publicity for cycling infrastructure and accommodations.  They can also provide a model that other smaller towns can use for their own cycling advocacy. Finally, it is good to have an organized response to incidents where cyclists are injured or killed and to use these tragedies to educate the public and work towards making such accidents less likely in the future.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Local Parks and Recreation Departments&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.baltimorecity.gov/Government/AgenciesDepartments/RecreationandParks/SpecialFacilities/GwynnsFallsTrail.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Baltimore Gwynns Falls Trail&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;Putting cycling facilities in parks is a no-brainer. Park facilities make it possible for newbies to get comfortable with cycling in a very safe familiar environment. Like with sports, it also puts a positive light on cycling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rails to Trails&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atatrail.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Great Allegheny Passage&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikekatytrail.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Katy Trail&lt;/a&gt;) These organizations have taken otherwise unused rail lines and converted them into trails that cover hundreds of miles and provide tourist revenue and centers ofinterest for rural and urban communities. They're the ones who do the &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; hard work of dealing with right-of-way and property laws to make the trails a reality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Local Departments of Transportation&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.capitalbikeshare.com/about&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Capital Bikeshare&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesharephiladelphia.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Philly Bike Share&lt;/a&gt; [in progress]) Whenever you have bike lanes, bus-carriers, public racks, bike-shares and other amenities it is because some advocacy group (or regular citizens) pushed for these things and the local government then accommodates, funds, maintains, contracts, or even operates the facilities. In many cities, younger people who are saavy to cycling and alternative transporation are now working increasingly higher level jobs in departments of transportation. Expect to see more changes as a result.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Urban planning/development groups&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cnu.org/cnu19/breakout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Congress for the New Urbanism&lt;/a&gt; , &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.completestreets.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Complete Streets&lt;/a&gt;)  There is a strong movement towards &quot;livable communities&quot; and &quot;complete streets&quot;. Progressive urban planners in the USA have started with a critique of pedestrian-hostile car-centric urban design and have moved towards historically-based human-scale designs which emphasize walking, cycling, public transportation and densifying retail, housing, businesses and recreation into smaller centralized locations. This is absolutely critical for the future because you simply can't expect towns which consist of literally nothing but arterials connecting to parking lots to ever truly become bike-friendly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Collectives&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://velocipedebikeproject.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velocipide&lt;/a&gt; [Baltimore MD], &lt;a href=&quot;http://freeridepgh.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Free Ride&lt;/a&gt; [Pittsburgh, PA]) These are small spaces that provide anyone refurbished bikes at very low or free in cost and a place to work on them. There are workshops on fixing bikes and outreach to kids. I think these places put lots of wheels on the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Critical Mass&lt;/strong&gt; In the &quot;old days&quot; (80's, 90's) this was one of the first bike advocacy methods. Whether you agree with it or not, it has raised attention to the needs and demands of cyclists in environments that were very hostile to anything but a car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T15:25:34.387" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T15:25:34.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5626" CreationDate="2011-08-23T15:26:53.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything stretches under load.  How much is the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt manufacturers should have technical data, including stress/strain graphs, modulus numbers, or other &quot;hard&quot; numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, generally speaking, carbon fiber and steel both have a modulus of around 200.  It's not clear now much carbon fiber is in the belts (and the cross-section area times the modulus effectively tells you how much stretch will occur), but when you consider the thinnest parts of a steel chain, and the fact that the pins will tend to flex in tension, it's probably comparable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any event, stretching should not be a concern so long as it's not sufficient to cause the belt to skip on the cog, or some other mechanical issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T15:57:02.810" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T15:57:02.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="161" CreationDate="2011-08-23T15:36:58.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saint Sheldon had an opinion on using a torque wrench ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experienced mechanics will strip threads as part of the learning process.  After you've stripped a few, you get the &amp;quot;feel&amp;quot; for what a given thread diameter and depth of engagement can take.  This is a very worthwhile skill to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are meant to be user serviceable without needing a lot of exotic tools.  Nobody carries a torque wrench for on-the-road repairs, and I never heard of anybody using a torque wrench on a bike before, say, 20 years ago. &lt;em&gt;(note: original post from 2001)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A torque wrench is like training wheels for a mechanic.  If you want to become a competent mechanic, you shouldn't be afraid to strip a few bolts in the learning process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon &amp;quot;Doesn't Do It By Rote&amp;quot; Brown &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Newtonville, Massachusetts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=tandem.10108.0031.eml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=tandem.10108.0031.eml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One area where I’ve found a torque wrench helpful is the left crank arm, it helped me get a feel for how much leverage was needed.  This is an area where learning about too little torque can be destructive.  A loose crank arm will ruin the press fit of the crank arm on a square taper bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think more important than a torque wrench is proper lubrication of threads and underside of bolt head. All threaded fasteners must be lubricated for them to be tightened properly.  He lays out the lubrication checklist here ... &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=internet-bob.10705.2486.eml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.asp?Filename=internet-bob.10705.2486.eml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2201" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T15:45:34.417" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5626" CreationDate="2011-08-23T16:24:19.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Stretch&quot; is a bit of misnomer for bike chains. The chain links do not deform or creep as a result of time under power. It is the bushings and pins that wear down over time and thus make the chain longer, more likely to break apart, shift badly and also wear down cogs faster. I am sure Sheldon Brown covers this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may very well be that the belts don't stretch appreciably, however, they certainly must wear down on the contact surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine that this would be a big problem. All you have to do is loosen nuts on the rear-axle, pull the wheel back further and re-tighten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real question as far as suitability of a belt-drive is concerned is how long does it last and how efficient is it compared to a chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T16:24:19.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2349" CreationDate="2011-08-23T17:51:22.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gaiters such as skiers wear would be another option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T17:51:22.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4476" CreationDate="2011-08-23T19:01:55.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the wicking action to work you need to wear something that is relatively taut on the skin. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikejerseys.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Any common jersey should do the job&lt;/a&gt;. I and others have had success with light weight &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.ibex.com/Mens-Ride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wool jerseys like from ibex&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, cotton is not a good choice for the base layer next to your skin. It will work for a while but as soon as it gets drenched with sweat you'll be miserable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layering is key for colder weather. First knee and arm warmers, then a cap under helmet, and shoe covers, then a lightweight jacket or winter training jersey. After that, a &quot;dicky&quot; for your neck and tights over the bibs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T15:02:52.453" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T15:02:52.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5187" CreationDate="2011-08-23T21:31:44.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is now an iPhone app to measure belt tension of a belt-drive.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.carbondrivesystems.com/?p=1822&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gates blog post&lt;/a&gt; about it, and here it is on &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/carbon-drive-bicycle-calculator/id438346486?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iTunes Preview&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They say they are working on an Android app but this has to take into account the variety of microphones on Android phones. They will probably have to test and calibrate for each make and model of Android phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T21:37:15.063" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T21:37:15.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5652" CreationDate="2011-08-23T23:02:56.133" Score="16" ViewCount="11341" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Surly Crosscheck has decals I want to remove - they are clear plastic decals with leterring on top :&quot;Fatties Fit Fine&quot; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to remove these without discoloring the paint job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-24T00:40:51.540" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T12:56:52.323" Title="How to remove bicycle decals?" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2011-08-23T23:27:25.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need a heavier bike to get fit, you need to ride the right technique and observe the right discipline (well designed workout plan) and commitment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the wrong argument around bike weight lies in ignoring inertia. Obviously, it takes more energy to accelerate a 32 lb bike from 0 to 20 mph than to accelerate a 15 lb bike to the same speed. However, once that speed is achieved, keeping at that speed needs almost the same energy, due to inertia. At that point, friction and drag are more likely to make you burn more or less energy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nonetheless, you can modify the amount of energy spent during a ride, much like you can change the way you drive to save fuel. The same principles apply. If you drive restlessly, in a sporty fashion, accelerating and braking heavily, you'll end spending a lot more fuel than if driving in a more controlled manner.&#xA;With multi-speed bikes you have that alternative to modify the purpose of your riding, especially in hilly terrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can climb up the same hill by doing two extremes: Use the biggest cog you can put up with, pedaling a lot faster but riding slow, that will be cardiovascular exercise, will make your heart beat faster and will keep your breath fast and light, doing this regularly is great for for burning body fat, but must be done several times a week and for at least 40 minutes (aprox) each time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can climb on the hardest gear combination, pedaling slowly, but exerting much more force in every pedal stroke. You will the build muscle strength. Doing this regularly even only two times a week will quickly build muscular strength, but mostly in the legs only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of friends and know a lot of people who are heavy riders, this meaning they ride in a regular basis, but they are all doing slow uphill pedaling, they all have very strong and muscular legs but a lot of abdominal fat. (I personally am a little bit into this category).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other riders who climb the same routes as we do, use lower gears and a faster cadence, we can ride side by side, so ground speed is almost the same. They have a better general physical shape, or at least they look so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing this two &quot;climbing techniques&quot; i can say that: I usually look more tired than they do while climbing, my breathing is slower and deeper than theirs, and my pulse is also slower and deeper (not measured, just felt finger on the wrist). BUT, in the other hand, I can usually keep going further and stay pedaling for a longer period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also do sporadic commute in a very hilly city, and I have tested both techniques and I can say, pedaling hard with slow cadence works best for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this, I have come to the conclusion that slow cadence burns less energy &quot;per minute&quot;, so I guess this is the less effective for loosing weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote about my experience as a mountain bike rider, riding kind of &quot;all mountain&quot; style. I cannot speak for route riding, but it seems to me that it is a lot more cardiovascular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T23:27:25.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5636" CreationDate="2011-08-23T23:36:38.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had reasonable luck with my Surly Long Haul Trucker using a hair dryer to heat up the decal and then using a hard plastic edge (credit card or something slightly harder) to scrape away at it. Definitely did not affect the paint job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that was a lot of work, so I only took off my least favorite decals that way.  Hopefully somebody has a better method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T23:36:38.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5636" CreationDate="2011-08-24T00:00:12.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old decals were applied like model airplane decals -- floated off the paper while wet, then coated with a sort of clear nail polish when dry.  The coating dissolved the decal to an extent, bonding it to the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No telling what they're using now.  My first guess at a solvent, though, would still be acetone (same as nail polish).  It may or may not damage the paint, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T00:00:12.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5643" CreationDate="2011-08-24T01:06:38.157" Score="7" ViewCount="15042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm riding with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/shoes/mtb/product.-code-SH-SD66.html&quot;&gt;Shimano SD66 sandals&lt;/a&gt;. They are awesome sandals and it's so comfortable riding without worrying about socks and shoes. I'm using Shimano pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting a squeaking sound, mainly from one shoe/pedal at the top of the power stroke. I'm almost certain it's from the shoe/pedal because just adjusting the angle of my foot a little (inside the play allowed by the cleat/pedal) makes the noise stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that the shoe and pedal are deforming/conforming to each other and have started to rub at the most common positioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd normally look at lubricating, but don't want to use grease as that will track through my house and office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T02:46:26.983" Title="How do I stop my clipless shoes and pedals from squeaking?" Tags="&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5636" CreationDate="2011-08-24T01:21:21.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Actual stickers applied after painting, often on cheaper bikes. You can tell this if the sticker has a square edge and it feels like it could peel off a little if you got your fingernail in there. It seems that using nail polish remover, sugar soap or alcohol will soften the adhesive and remove these stickers with reasonable success. &lt;em&gt;*&lt;/em&gt;* I've seen two styles of decals/stickers.I'd be careful how much was used though to avoid damaging the paint (and I guess realise that some level of paint degradation is inevitable). Another alternative is to use a heat gun or hairdryer to heat up the sticker, which will help to get the bulk of it off. Then use a solvent to clean up the rest of the adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decals applied before the final clearcoat. These decals are actually applied before the final layer of paint is applied. The only way to remove these would be sanding them off and then re-spraying with clear coat. However, getting clear coat to match seems problematic so you're probably looking at a full frame re-spray :(  I've done some research because I have a frame with these decals that I want to remove. From what I've seen bike resprayers will do an entire frame for about $200-$300, although you need to strip all the parts off first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;em&gt;*&lt;/em&gt; EDIT: Do not use nail polish remover under any circumstances unless you want to damage the paint! You can also use ordinary cooking oil or mineral &quot;baby oil&quot; to remove adhesive residue. It is not necessary or particularly effective to use rubbing alcohol or solvents to remove residues that decals leave behind. There are gentler alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-08-12T05:29:22.597" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T05:29:22.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5641" CreationDate="2011-08-24T05:28:41.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than use grease, you can try using a 'dry' or wax based chain lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the lube to the flat clips on each pedal - hit both sides if they are double sided mtb pedals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you think the squeak may be coming from the pedal itself, rather than the friction between the pedal and the clip, apply some lube to the spindle attachment points where the pedal rotates around the shaft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe away any excess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold onto a wall or go for a ride and and clip in and out of the bicycle pedals until the lube is adequately distributed and worked in.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat all steps if still squeaking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you carefully wipe off the excess from your shoes/cleats and the pedals, you won't be tracking anything around your house after your ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If after a second application the squeak remains it may be a problem with the bearings in the pedals - some can be overhauled, but others it makes more sense just to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T05:28:41.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5649" CreationDate="2011-08-24T08:45:18.303" Score="14" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning I almost witnessed an accident. I was a couple of hundred metres behind the incident but arrived at the scene when a pedestrian was picking a bike from the middle of the road, a distraught driver was parking his van and a cyclist was lying on the pavement very dazed and grazed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several pedestrians stopped, one called an ambulance, the van driver put a jacket under the cyclist's head for comfort, but otherwise we didn't move him, we kept him talking, he wasn't complaining of cold. He did want to know about his bike, he was more worried about it than his bashed up leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what should we have done? Did we miss out anything crucial? Do we do wrong? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T02:59:51.753" Title="What to do after an accident?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5644" CreationDate="2011-08-24T08:53:42.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you keep the contact information of the cyclist, in case you need to be a witness in a trial. Also mark down the licence plate number of the car. This might not be needed if the driver was cooperating, but you never know. If the accident is registered, the cyclist can file a claim with the insurance company of the driver to get compensation (I am assuming that the driver was to blame here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend reading this article about experience with insurance companies:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2011/05/what-i-learned-about-getting-hit-by-car.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2011/05/what-i-learned-about-getting-hit-by-car.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T18:29:29.463" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T18:29:29.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5641" CreationDate="2011-08-24T09:02:15.793" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common problem with SPD cleats. You may want to check the cleats for wear and mount them in the middle of the slots on the bottom of the shoes pointing exactly forward. Make sure the bolts are tight and give them another go. If the squeak has gone then try edging the cleats forwards/back to where you had them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;But why bother wasting time...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to get the Time ATAC pedal system. These are a much better pedal system because of how the cleat gets held and how the 'float' works. The pedals are also a bit more considerate if you catch your shins with them. The ch-mo ones are practically indestructible. An investment in them will be an expense you probably don't need right now but ten years down the line they will be amongst your most prized possessions and so pleased to have had ten years of use out of them. Google 'atac vs spd' and you will find that the only people that beg to differ are those that never tried Time. If there is a 'problem' with your pedal stroke then the ATAC cleats/pedals will be a lot more forgiving and easier on the knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T09:02:15.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5648" CreationDate="2011-08-24T09:30:32.007" Score="27" ViewCount="107927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a novice cyclist, using my bike to travel to work with a round trip of about 15 miles in moderate to heavy traffic. I have been thinking about upgrading my bikes platform pedals to a set of pedals with toe clips. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_pedal#Clipless_pedals&quot;&gt;Clipless&lt;/a&gt; pedals are probably out of the question because traffic is too heavy). My question is whether I can expect a performance boost (in terms of my average speed) by doing this, and if so how significant it is likely to be. (based on studies / past experience of other riders)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2183" LastEditorUserId="2243" LastEditDate="2011-08-27T22:57:24.240" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T14:32:18.980" Title="How much of a difference do Toe Pedal Clips make in comparison to Platform Pedals?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5647" CreationDate="2011-08-24T10:03:13.170" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found toe clips to be better than platform pedals, but not by a huge amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, get clipless pedals. It doesn't matter how much traffic there is as it's so easy to get your foot in or out of the pedals. The advantages are huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cycling shoes are so much more comfortable than street shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your foot is so secure on the pedal - you can confidently apply as much force as you want, knowing that your foot will not slip off the pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get extra oomph up a hill by pulling with your back leg.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get clipless pedals you'll never look back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T10:03:13.170" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5644" CreationDate="2011-08-24T10:06:45.020" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The highway code has some advice on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highwaycode/DG_069872&quot;&gt;First Aid on the Road&lt;/a&gt;. It says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Deal with danger&lt;/strong&gt; - the cyclist was on the pavement and the van was parked, so you did this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Get help&lt;/strong&gt; - an ambulance was called, so you did this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Help those involved&lt;/strong&gt; - you didn't move the cyclist and you kept him comfortable, so you did this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. Provide emergency care&lt;/strong&gt; - you don't mention what injuries the cyclist had, but it sounds like you didn't need to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you missed anything crucial, assuming the cyclist didn't have serious injuries (e.g. heavy bleeding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T10:06:45.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5644" CreationDate="2011-08-24T10:12:10.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 'hit and run' accidents where the driver notices that nobody has noticed and legs it, to leave the victim all alone, however, these are the exception. By and large most accidents do gather a small crowd in a short period of time and one or two individuals will take the lead in helping as best as they can. Therefore, by the time you arrive at the scene or shortly thereafter they may well be people better able than yourself to look after the injured cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'how's my bike?' question will tend to be trivialised by those 'phoning the ambulance' and those that arrive in the ambulance, however, to the one in pain this is the top question even if it seems a bit silly given the state that they are in. Therefore, as a cyclist, the best thing that you can do is to be completely honest to them about the state of their bike, and in detail. Even if it is bad news it will put their mind at rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a camera on your phone then take some pictures of the scene and the bicycle. With that done you can take responsibility for what happens to the bike next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it looks like the ambulance is going to be used that day (e.g. for a check for concussion) then ask them if they have a relative able to come and collect the bike. Offer to wait with the bike or ask a local address if they can look after it until it can be collected. Obtain and return D-lock keys to secure the bike if required. Locked up inside a building but not to anything means that their relative will still be able to collect the bike, the cyclist will also know it is not going anywhere until such time as it is collected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no ambulance trip needed then let them know that you can help them with a second opinion on whether the bike is okay. If you have tools to straighten the bars etc. then offer your help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that the bicycle might be at fault rather than the driver, the rain, unicorns in the street or anything else. Check the bike for something lethal such as a broken front mudguard that may have got caught in the fork and thrown them over the bars. If you do establish the responsible cause then the cyclist will want to know about it to avoid a repeat incident. Tell them your suspicions diplomatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly there will be times when you will be first on the scene and that you will have to do more than look after the bike. As a cyclist you have the benefit of being able to park up instantly and you are also better suited than pedestrians to take control of the traffic situation. Unless you are in the middle of nowhere an ad-hoc team will materialise rapidly, play to your strengths as a cyclist in this team and be the eyes and ears for whomever takes the lead in looking after whomever is hurt. Remember that you are very mobile on the bike and you can go-get stuff in the immediate locality quicker than those on foot or in a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been fortunate in never having to get involved in actual first aid due to someone more proficient than myself being on the scene in a short space of time. Hopefully another contributor can post the ABC's of first aid as a complimentary answer to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T10:12:10.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5647" CreationDate="2011-08-24T10:46:22.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second @Mac's answer, however, there is something you need to know about clipless pedals: they are not all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride with Time ATAC pedals and I think they are fantastic. The ones I use are the basic ones that look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AmP5D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UQqse.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I ride is to keep my traffic-side foot permanently locked in with my kerbside foot rarely locked in. I hook the front part of the cleat into the pedal properly and pedal just like that, not pushing down with the back of my foot to fully lock in. I don't lose time by pedalling 'half-clipped' I just have perfect foot alignment and lots of 'float' for my ankle to move about. My feet never slip off the front of the pedal and I can ride very safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SPD pedal does not work so well 'half-clipped in' and the design is very different in terms of where the springs are and how the 'float' works ('float' is how much freedom you have to change the angle of your feet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the Time pedals I am also able to ride with both feet 'half clipped in' and with shoes that do not have the cleat (although flat, leather soled shoes are almost lethal on Time ATAC pedals in the wet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'float' on Time ATAC pedals is a bit weird at first - it feels like you are dancing on small ice cubes - but, once you have given it a go, the older pedals that lock your feet in one position feel badly wrong. That includes regular platform pedals that have spikes that go into the rubber of the shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for toe-clips and straps, the main things I remember from them are: how the toeclips would scrape on the ground when I was not in them, how I lost all momentum when I needed it most trying to get my feet into them, how those 'Medium' size clips almost killed me because I needed the 'Large' size to get the ball of my foot over the pedal spindle and how the pedals that went with them ate my trainers. They were also harder to get out of when you needed to, plus reaching down to adjust the straps wasn't an art I perfected. On your commute I guess you will spend a lot of time being pre-occupied by them - don't get them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much is said how that you can pedal through the whole 360 degrees on clipless pedals, to pull up as well as push down. For the majority of your commute you will not be doing that. In real life there are only fleeting moments when cyclists pull up, even on the Tour de France it is 'push-push'. The real benefits for performance come from a more secure footing, better footwear and no time spent constantly repositioning your feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To go with your hopefully fantastic Time ATAC pedals, consider getting some basic Shimano shoes. These come with a stiff yet slightly flexible sole. From these shoes you will get an extra ten percent or so of power and that will make you quicker. Plus you will not be wearing out your other shoes that have not been specifically designed for cycling. Therefore an investment in cycling shoes will pay off because your footwear bills will be a lot lower in the future. Specialized also make nice affordable shoes with sensible 'lace-locks' to keep the laces out of the chainset.&#xA;Both the Shimano and Specialized shoes come in sizes where the foot is measured rather than the 'last' used to make the sole. Consequently a 44 in Shimano is larger than a 44 by an Italian shoe company. If you do have a quality bike shop in your area with shoes then do pay them a visit and try before you buy. They may not stock the Time ATAC pedals - go online to get them and don't go for the much more widely available Shimano pedals in the hope that they are just as good - they are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T10:46:22.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5636" CreationDate="2011-08-24T10:53:07.227" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If all else fails, refer to the instructions...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incredibly, Surly have an online guide for how to remove the decals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/removing_and_applying_decals_on_our_frames&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/removing_and_applying_decals_on_our_frames&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We do not apply a clear coat over our decals. Except for one brief period a long time ago, we never have. Yeah, your frame’s decals can get scuffed up. But we have never thought scuffed decals look bad. In fact, we see them as a badge of honor, showing that you use your bike. Having exposed decals is kind of nice for other reasons too. For one thing, adding clear coat costs more money and we would charge you that money. Do want to pay extra for that? Great, take your frame to a painter and have him or her add a clear coat. Some folks want their bike logo free to help avoid theft. Others want black decals instead of white, or vice versa. Some people just don’t want advertising on their bike.  Some people want to add decals after a new paint. We sell decals kits for all our frame models, in both all black and white with a black outline. Find them here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you should want to remove the decals that came on your frame or apply new ones, we’ve put together this little tidbit with some helpful suggestions. Again, they’re SUGGESTIONS, not gospel. Experience helps. If you know someone who has done this before, ask them to help you. Patience helps too. Go slow, think about each step. You’ll save yourself time, money, and aggravation. And at no time should you use ‘hot’ paint thinners or adhesive removers such as naphtha, acetone, paint strippers, oven cleaners, etc. There is no need to bring a machine gun to a knife fight. Use mineral spirits, Goo Gone, something of that ilk, and use enough to get the job done. And be sure you’re in a well ventilated area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removing Surly frame decals:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use a credit card or a plastic spoon or something else with a somewhat hard edge to flake the decals off. Don’t use anything too hard, because you could gouge or scratch the paint. Use a hair dryer to soften the adhesive prior to poking at the decals with the credit card edge. Once the decal is removed, apply adhesive remover with a clean soft cloth to remove remaining adhesive. Finish with rubbing alcohol or multipurpose cleaner to make it look all pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are other, quicker methods, but due to the risks to your paint, the steel under the paint, and potentially to yourself we have advised ourselves not to share these methods. Don’t ask what they are because we won’t tell you. Just be advised that if you try to warranty a frame that looks like it has been damaged by excessive heat or chemicals, we will laugh in your face. We will probably even say we told you so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Applying Surly frame decals:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Assuming the old decals are nicely removed, clean the surface with some sort of degreaser or rubbing alcohol. Directly prior to installation of decals the tube surface should be dry and clean of dirt, grease, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your decals, as they come packaged, are comprised of three layers. The decals themselves are sandwiched by a clear plastic top layer over the decals and a paper backing covering the adhesive on the back side of the decals. The adhesive is quite sticky. Once they’re stuck, they’re stuck, even if they’re stuck in the wrong place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place the decal –with all layers intact- in the desired position on the frame tube, eyeing up their alignment on the tube. You might consider drawing vertical and horizontal center lines on the cover layer of the decals, to aid in alignment. Once you have determined the proper position, use tape along the top edge of the decal overlapping to the frame itself to hold its position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Carefully remove the backing paper, being careful to hold the decal out from the tube. Avoid letting the decal touch the tube! Sheesh…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Starting at the top (where the tape is), at the middle of the decal, begin pressing the decal into place. Apply gentle but firm pressure and work from the middle top (by the tape) out and down. Work slowly to avoid wrinkles or bubbles.  These decals are not vinyl…you cannot simply pull them up and start over. Easy does it. Watch what you’re doing. No pressure. You’re doing great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once the entire decal has been applied, go over it once more, pressing it down to make sure it is completely adhered to the frame. Beginning at one end, slowly and gradually peel the clear cellophane from the front of the decal. For best results, the cellophane should be pulled at an acute angle parallel to the frame tube. Pulling away from the tube may result in chunks of the decal pulling off, especially if not fully adhered. And this would be bad because you’d have to remove it and start all over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;O.K., rub it a little more to make sure it is fully adhered. Adhesed?  Whatever. Crack a beer and stare at it for a little while. Feel all satisfied n’ stuff.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now go do the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="37178" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T12:56:52.323" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T12:56:52.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5647" CreationDate="2011-08-24T11:15:33.243" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toe clips will definitely improve your cycling, if used correctly.  (After all, pro cyclists used them for decades before clipless pedals were invented.)  In terms of speed increase it's hard to say, though -- it's probably more in terms of acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They take a bit of learning to use correctly, but, even if you end up with (misnamed) &quot;clipless&quot; pedals, toe clips are a good &quot;gateway drug&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to learn is how to route the strap and how to tighten/loosen it.  The strap needs to be routed so the end is pointing up in the air.  You tighten by gripping the end of the strap and tugging.  You loosen by placing a finger on the flange sticking out from the buckle and pressing down.  Both these motions can be easily done while cycling, though you generally should not tighten so tight that (absent cleats on your shoes) you cannot slip your shoe out with a brief wiggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T11:15:33.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5647" CreationDate="2011-08-24T13:08:12.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar experience to @ʍǝɥʇɐɯ, although I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/pedals/mountain/product.-code-PD-A530.-type-.pd_mountain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano A530 pedals&lt;/a&gt;, which use an SPD cleat. They have a platform on one side, and a clip on the other side, allowing you to ride with regular shoes if you are just going out the store or some other short ride. They also allow you to keep one foot out for situations where you are anticipating having to stop quickly or frequently.  They are really easy to get in and out of, and I've only fallen over a couple times, but that was more due to me not unclipping when I should have.  Clip out early and often, and you really shouldn't have any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U6INR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T13:08:12.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5659" CreationDate="2011-08-24T13:44:08.047" Score="13" ViewCount="37255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some SPD clipless pedals and shoes at the beginning of the season, and I want to make sure I'm getting the most out of them.  There is quite a bit of distance I can move the cleat forwards and backwards on the shoe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there an optimal position for the cleat?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there certain positions better suited towards hill climbing or riding mostly on flat land?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I just try a bunch of different positions and see which is most comfortable for me?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of questions I guess, just looking for general recommendations on placement.  The cleat is currently in the middle, and I don't have any real &quot;problems&quot; with them, like pain or fatigue, I'm just wondering if my setup is optimal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-27T21:21:39.510" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T21:21:39.510" Title="Is there an optimal postion for SPD cleats?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;spd&gt;&lt;bike-setup&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5656" CreationDate="2011-08-24T14:34:17.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;neutral&quot; position places the ball of your foot over the pedal spindle, which I assume is where you're at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conventional wisdom has it that sprinters and high-cadence riders will want the cleat positioned a little forward of that, LSD riders a little aft of that. But as with most positioning questions, the right answer is &quot;whatever works for you.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T14:34:17.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5644" CreationDate="2011-08-24T14:41:23.643" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://nielsenhayden.com/makinglight/archives/008884.html&quot;&gt;well-written guide for what to do at the scene of an accident&lt;/a&gt;. It addresses much more serious situations than you encountered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I would add to that is &quot;be a witness.&quot; Having been in an accident myself where nobody who witnessed it would give their (genuine) contact information, I can tell you it's very frustrating to not have witnesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T14:41:23.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5656" CreationDate="2011-08-24T14:55:17.110" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You pedal with the ball of your foot and this should placed directly above the pedal axle. However, because you move your foot in a ~170mm radius circle altering the angle of your foot, 'directly above' moves back and fore through the pedal stroke. Getting the ball of the foot behind the axle is not desirable as you are then using the toes rather than the ball (or arch) of the foot to pedal with. Therefore, in practice, you need to have the ball of your foot approximately 10mm forward of the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing the ball of the foot 10mm forward of the axle helps during the bottom of the power stroke. You can push the pedal backwards through the dead spot. It also helps at the top of the stroke. IMHO if the toes are having to do all the work (and the cleats are too far forward) then you can tell on a climb - the toes want to give up on you, almost dangerously so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alignment is also important. Ideally you want the cleats to be pointing forward with the left/right bolts in the same positions in their little slots on each shoe. This can feel 'pigeon toed' when you get on the bike and it does no harm to angle in the heels so long as there is clearance between them and the cranks. We all have variations in gait and this needs to be accommodated with a little bit of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the subject of natural variations, we all have one foot larger than the other, sometimes this can be some margin, in many cases this can be a whole E.U. shoe size. In practical terms, if placing the cleat so that the ball of the foot to be 10mm forward of the axle, there should be no need to adjust relative cleat positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for determining exactly where the ball of the foot is, with an already worn shoe you can take the insole out and line it up with the sole. Otherwise you have to take an educated 'feel' from looking at your feet on the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T14:55:17.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5647" CreationDate="2011-08-24T15:43:11.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being an avid mountain biker (3+ times a week, and been riding since I was 10) I can say that clips are a definite advantage even in traffic, clipping in and out can be just as fast as a standard flat pedal provided you know how, just simply raise your heel and twist it outward, and you are out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few times where clips are bad, such as downhill mountain biking, however I still wear my clips doing this when trying to keep up with my downhill mountain biking buddies and I have no problems whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will see a significant increase in performance as well (assuming you have the other components such as seat height and riding form figured out [many people have terrible form and seat heights]) because it allows you to isolate your legs from your upper body and push and pull with a lot more force on each pedal stroke, also since you are using both legs simultaneously you get the advantage of using less energy to create the same output force, so you can ride either faster or longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2216" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T15:43:11.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5656" CreationDate="2011-08-24T16:47:21.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just adding one more tool as it were... &#xA;if possible a final option is to put your bike on a stationary trainer (and grab a friend and a pencil.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave the cleat bolts a titch loose (snug, but not fully tight.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal for a few minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then have the friend mark out the cleat position while your still&#xA;locked in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dismount, line up the cleats with the pencil marks and tighten fully.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least that was the old fashioned way from way back when.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1859" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T16:47:21.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5667" CreationDate="2011-08-24T17:17:41.267" Score="21" ViewCount="6186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to plan ahead for winter riding, and gloves are definitely high on the list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What gloves work well for winter riding?  Are cycling-specific gloves the way to go for a flat-bar bike with index/thumb shifters?  Would regular winter gloves be good enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option I'm considering is buying some MTB gloves (full finger, some small amount of insulation) and wearing them inside regular winter gloves on the extra nasty days--letting me keep some protection if I need to ditch the thicker gloves (for repairs, or any other time the larger gloves get in the way).  Is this advisable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 1:&lt;/strong&gt; I should mention I live in Burlington, VT.  Lots of days below (and some well-below) freezing, and lots of snow :-D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt; More clarification!  I'm hoping to commute in the winter on a fairly short route.  Initially (late fall) it will be ~4.25 miles, but hopefully by the time real winter sets in it will be about half that distance to a new location.  I'd expect my ride will consistently be 20-30 minutes, so I'm looking for something that will work well for a relative short while--but not worried about all-day hauls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="1373" LastEditDate="2011-08-24T20:03:16.977" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T19:23:54.907" Title="What gloves work well for winter riding?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;gloves&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5641" CreationDate="2011-08-24T17:31:26.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have rubbed a block of wax on the pedal/cleat interface to deal with a similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T17:31:26.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5662" CreationDate="2011-08-24T17:48:41.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/803542/pearl-izumi-cyclone-bike-gloves-womens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/803542/pearl-izumi-cyclone-bike-gloves-womens&lt;/a&gt; They've got texturing for gripping, and they fit very snuggly which I find essential. Also the seams on the fingers were not at all scratchy/itchy, which is a problem I've have with other biking gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you are though, they might not be warm enough. In Boston I switched to something warmer maybe around December. All the warmer gloves I have tried so far have been too thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2050" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T17:48:41.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5686" CreationDate="2011-08-24T17:49:36.283" Score="13" ViewCount="13233" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say you have any type of bike available (BMX, Trial, MTB, etc.) and you can ride them all on the same level, just for the sake of the argument. What bicycle would be best to choose to ride in the city (short distances, traffic, people) in a very bad winter condition (snow, ice, etc) and why would you make such a decision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking this question because I have both a BMX and an MTB bike available and since I plan on riding a lot during the winter, I could go as far as buying another type of bike especially for that purpose. Both my BMX and MTB bikes are newly bought 2011 models, so they have all the today's features of a standard bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="1458" LastEditDate="2011-08-24T19:19:32.923" LastActivityDate="2017-07-02T01:03:33.320" Title="What type of bicycle would be the most suitable for riding in winter in the city?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5662" CreationDate="2011-08-24T17:56:24.040" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike-specific full-finger gloves are generally going to give you more dexterity, allowing you finer control over shifters and brake levers. They'll also have padding in the places you need it when riding. However, very few of these gloves will be warm enough for winter riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution I've found is to ride with a few layers of gloves, using full-finger gloves as the outer layer and thin gloves as the inner layers. On longer rides, you may need to pack several pairs of gloves and switch off as you need to warm up and cool down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wind is your biggest enemy when riding in the cold, and your fingers &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; get cold. Options to prevent this include thicker gloves (like ski gloves), although these will make your hands clumsier; and lobster-claw gloves, which keep groups of fingers together. (Essentially, these are mittens with a split making you look like a Vulcan about to tell someone to &quot;live long and prosper&quot;.) I haven't had to get one of those - yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I use, and why: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/6077342642/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;gloves by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm7.static.flickr.com/6083/6077342642_468b1af14f.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;375&quot; alt=&quot;gloves&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(click this image for a larger version)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upper left: Regular cycling gloves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll use these, usually with glove liners underneath, when riding in slightly warmer winter weather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upper right: Glove liners&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are about the thickness of denim, but can be rolled up like a small pair of socks. I usually take them along for that reason along, but they serve well under regular cycling gloves or even full-finger gloves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lower left: Full-finger cycling gloves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to bring bulky ski gloves along before I got these. The full-finger cycling gloves  I have are made by Gore, and are super-warm (more so than those bulky ski gloves) and water-repellent. It's a bit of a squeeze to fit liners under them, but it works well. The disadvantage of these gloves is that I can't work my GPS or phone easily with these on. They're also overkill when I'm not riding, or if I'm riding slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lower right: Conventional winter gloves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are good for off the bike on a tour, or when the Gore gloves are too warm but the liners/half-finger gloves are too cold. These are also excellent for snowball fights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.950" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T18:14:58.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5647" CreationDate="2011-08-24T18:06:09.767" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A foot retention system of some kind is preferable to platform pedals for anything other than a short ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that your pedal stroke, when done correctly and efficiently, will almost completely remove all load from each pedal on the upstroke. You will also pull back slightly at the bottom of the stroke. If you attempt a really efficient pedal stroke using a platform pedal, your foot will invariably go astray on the pedal and this impacts efficiency and causes you to constantly reposition the foot. I don't think it is possible to quantify this other than to say that it will make a difference on long rides or situations where you are trying to spin very fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless is the best as others have mentioned, but you're asking about platform vs toe-clips....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A top-clip system with proper shoes can be operationally as good as clipless, just not as convenient. Most people have never seen shoes intended for toe-clips, but they did exist and they had a ridge in them that kept the foot from slipping straight out when the straps were tightened. The shoes were as rigid as today's clipless shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want basic foot retention on normal street shoes, toe-clips are OK, but there are some other options which may be better for commuters and urban riders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/pedals/vo-deep-half-clips.html&quot;&gt;Half clips&lt;/a&gt;. These are clips without a strap. They will help keep&#xA;your foot in place. Convenient for many kinds of street shoes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/power-grips-pair/14-046&quot;&gt;Power Grips&lt;/a&gt;. These are straps that work with regular shoes.&#xA;Again, basic foot retention to keep your foot in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T18:06:09.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5662" CreationDate="2011-08-24T18:27:24.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gone through a lot of gloves over the years and have to say that effective cycling gloves for cold weather are a really hard problem. No one glove can work for all of the cold temperature ranges. That is why Neil has several.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Neil said, wind is your enemy. This is more insidious than it seems at first because it means that you need gloves that block the cold air, but if they block the cold air, it means that they're also holding in moisture. Over time your sweat will make you miserable and give you cold hands no matter what you're wearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right gloves or combination of gloves will keep your hands warm but no so warm that they sweat too much. This is a tricky balance that is impossible to achieve with only one pair over a wide cold temperature range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T18:27:24.333" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5666" CreationDate="2011-08-24T18:41:17.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No type of bike in particular. It all depends on the tires: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding in light slush or wet roads: &lt;strong&gt;regular tires with fenders&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding in packed snow, heavy slush: &lt;strong&gt;wide knobby tires&lt;/strong&gt;. Fender probably won't fit so you need one of those clip-on mudguards that attach to the seatpost to keep the rear wheel from constantly flinging cold slushies on you butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding on ice: &lt;strong&gt;Don't do it&lt;/strong&gt;. Although I have heard of studded tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T18:41:17.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5602" CreationDate="2011-08-24T19:47:52.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once the system is set up correctly you will not need to tension it again until it is time to replace the system. There will be a slight drop in tension over the life of the system but it is not enough to require adjusting the tension.  When performing a tire change using a bike with sliding vertical drop outs or an eccentric bottom bracket it is not necessary to re-tension the system, just pop the wheel in and out as you would with a chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2219" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T19:47:52.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5666" CreationDate="2011-08-24T20:29:52.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much to my surprise my Dahon 20&quot; wheel folding bike did very well last time it snowed here. The low step-thru frame and nimble, small wheel size worked a treat. I was even able to lower the seat (it has a quick-release) and make it down a sledging run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snow is the exception rather than the rule in these globally warmed times for most cities. The city riding benefits of the small-wheeled folder to me seem to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nimble wheel size works well getting through traffic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can park it in reception, under a desk or under a pub table so it does not need to be parked where the thieves roam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upright position is good for seeing what is around you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comes with a rack to carry stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comes with a set of mudguards to keep you clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Folds up so you can take it on any train, underground lines and buses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also goes in taxis and friends' cars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick away from traffic lights as the small wheel size and light weight helps acceleration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No need to put your feet down at traffic lights as center of gravity is massively low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be carried up and down staircases very easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small wheel acts as a deterrent to taking pavement short-cuts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can put feet up on top tube when free-wheeling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can surprise other cyclists that expect 'shopping bikes' to be slow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Twist-grip gears without there being too many of them suit city riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most importantly, fun to ride. Not really aware of the bike as you don't see a huge wheel in front of you or have a 'country gate' to straddle. More like a magic carpet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmfPV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T20:29:52.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5677" CreationDate="2011-08-24T20:50:53.090" Score="15" ViewCount="3022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently started commuting via bike to work (6.5mi each way), and am looking for advice on gear... specifically sunglasses (which I find useful to prevent dust in eyes and to help block the ample sun).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I'm using an expensive pair of Oakleys (not meant for riding per-se), but I'm wondering if I should get a specific pair of glasses that are preferred by riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on brands or even specific models would be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2213" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-26T18:10:31.367" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T19:27:41.757" Title="Sunglasses for commuting?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5666" CreationDate="2011-08-24T20:56:05.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a few winters working as a Bicycle Courier in Toronto I have become a big fan of the &quot;fixed-gear conversion&quot; for general heavy-duty-all-weather ridding, but especially in the winter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need is a decent old road bike frame with horizontal drops that you don't really care about, a tire with medium tread and, a hub and rim that you feel comfortable with on the back. And of course some decent brakes. I prefer to use a 1/8th inch chain/cog/chainring as I find that its more easy to quickly clean winter sludge out of, and tends to freeze less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good fender on the back is also a wise decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that with the exception of big storms and very early mornings (before snow get cleared) that the old road bike frames while rather light when striped of derailleurs and rear cassettes still have enough heft to blast through a few inches ( 4ish so so inches ) of snow while still being light enough to be agile enough to allow you to safely ride with traffic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But mostly I find that the fixed drive offers two major advantages, both which are useful for staying alive. Firstly, hand breaks after a few good stops I find tend to ice over and significantly reduces your breaking power. Secondly, being able to feel how your tire is engaging the road through the drive really helps control your traction, That will help you not fall down in less then ideal road conditions.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2220" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T20:56:05.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5673" CreationDate="2011-08-24T21:13:09.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend another expensive pair of sunglasses from Oakley: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oakley.com/products/6293?promotion_id=6&amp;amp;cm_mmc=google-semsearch-_-brand-products-men-sunglasses-_-jawbone-_-%5Boakley%20jawbone%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Jawbone&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excellent crystal clear peripheral vision. You can get lenses with little vents. Lens change-out is easy. Lots of colors to choose from. They stay on your face and are very durable. Many pros wear them. The only bad thing is the price at about US $200. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About lenses...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is good to get two kinds, a dark tint for daylight and a yellow/clear one for dusk/dawn/night. I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oakley.com/products/6273/22871&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;polarized vented lenses&lt;/a&gt; for the darks and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oakley.com/products/6273/22882&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; for yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2011-08-25T00:18:53.457" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T00:18:53.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5673" CreationDate="2011-08-24T22:04:30.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to give yet another It Depends answer, but it does. In my experience, the shape of your face will determine the cycling goggles that work best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a long nose and narrow face, and I wanted sunglasses that didn't admit any sun over the top edge. I wound up with a pair of Nikes (now discontinued, like every good thing Nike ever does), but only after a lot of looking. My wife's facial features are just the opposite of mine—she can't wear my sunglasses at all, and after much looking she wound up with a spendy pair of Adidas sunglasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interchangeable lenses sound nice in theory, although I never take advantage of that. Wrap-around lenses that cover your peripheral vision are good. Polycarbonate lenses (I think most quality cycling goggles have them these days) is important. If you spend any time at high speed (say, descending at 30+ mph), a close fit will prevent turbulence behind the lenses, which makes your eyes tear up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T22:04:30.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5673" CreationDate="2011-08-24T22:42:08.543" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling glasses are a very functional piece of equipment.  While any glasses will be better than none, you ideally want glasses that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap your face, so the frame does not obstruct your field of vision&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have lenses that are close to your eyes, without large gaps between them and your face (to minimize dust and debris from getting to your eyes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow a reasonable amount of airflow to prevent fogging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit well (meaning they essentially meet the above requirements without causing discomfort).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling glasses will meet all of these aspects.  However, the specific set you buy can range from low-end, nearly disposable glasses to high-end high-dollar ones.  Features such as interchangeable lenses (so you can have clear lenses on shady days or in the dark) are nice-to-haves, and can be had even on cheap pairs.  An alternative is to have a few pairs of glasses so you can pick the right tint for the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right tint is very important--whether you have one pair with interchangable lenses, or several that you use depending on conditions, you'll want to ensure you have a pair for any riding time.  Riding without glasses can be dangerous.  Large bugs, branches, and road debris can &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; hurt if it catches you in the eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Price will partly be dictated by how long you'd like them to last.  These will be taking bugs and other debris at relatively high speed, so they will all need to be replaced eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have a pair of relatively low-end Uvex Blaze's--paid about $30--and they come with clear and medium-tint lenses.  They have suited me well, and have taken some drops.  I'd expect I'll get perhaps a year of usage out of them before I do something disastrous and they are gone.  The interchangable lenses are quite nice--I use them regularly, especially when commuting where I often need clear lenses after dusk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T22:42:08.543" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5673" CreationDate="2011-08-24T23:14:53.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always go for interchangeable lenses.&#xA;I use the clear ones (or yellow if you must), at night, and dark ones in really bright sun.&#xA;Although mostly I just keep the clear ones in day and night.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On every pair I've had the clear lens also gives full UV protection (although clear won't cut down glare of course).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Make sure you try them on so that they are a good fit to your face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-08-25T00:44:56.520" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T00:44:56.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5673" CreationDate="2011-08-24T23:46:54.710" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photochromic_lens&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Transition lenses&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After riding for years with various sunnies and cycling glasses with interchangeable lenses I got sick of having to carry around multiple lenses and changing them during the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I got a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oakley.com/products/6200/22478&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oakley Fives&lt;/a&gt; with transition lenses. They are brilliant. No more need for changing lenses, they are always the right level of shading and it's just so convenient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only got the fives because they were pretty cheap and they suited my face. Plenty of sports frames can handle transition lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/420QY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oakley Fives&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T23:46:54.710" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5662" CreationDate="2011-08-25T01:20:21.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back when I used to do a lot of winter cycling (southern MN) I'd generally wear glove liners, then either a loose fingered &quot;driving glove&quot; or a ski mitt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I'd say no matter what you do have at least two layers, and have the outer layer (which should be wind-proof) easily removed.  On a bike you often need good finger dexterity to fiddle with something, and you can't do that with heavy gloves on.  But remove all gloves and your hands go numb quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glove liners I use are polypropylene (most recently from Performance brand, since I can no longer find the better brand I used to buy), knit as one piece, a little heavier than T-shirt fabric.  (There are heavier sewn glove liners, but they're generally too thick to wear under regular gloves.)  In fact, I have about ten pair, and I still use them sometimes on cool rides (under regular fingerless gloves), plus I keep a pair in every jacket -- handy even off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T01:20:21.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5673" CreationDate="2011-08-25T01:34:20.587" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to spend lots of money you can still get the most relevant characteristics in a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.safetyglassesusa.com/253-ct-40044.html&quot;&gt;safety glasses&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find these at just about any hardware store and they:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wrap around, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are impact resistant, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;block UV, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't look half bad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;come in clear and tinted (and are cheap enough to get one of each usually) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1470" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T01:34:20.587" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5656" CreationDate="2011-08-25T01:51:15.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimlangley.net/crank/cleats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a very good article about fitting cleats&lt;/a&gt;. It contains advice about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locating the correct initial position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjustments from that position, including angle of the foot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance/lubrication&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am impressed by the level of detail and would definitely recommend having a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T01:51:15.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5662" CreationDate="2011-08-25T03:47:04.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden through two winters in the Pacific Northwest, and while our winters might not get as frigid, I have formed similar conclusions to our fellows, but I would like to frame my answer from more of a preparedness point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;core temperature affects hand warmth: if your hands are regularly colder than you want with your gloves on, you might actually want to add a layer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cut tight wrist elastic: once I realized that circulation was important to hand warmth, I noticed that I had gloves with really tight elastic wrists. I took my pocket knife to them and sliced up some of the elastic and they work much better now that they don't fit so tightly around my wrists (layers of gloves can exacerbate that pressure)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;layers of gloves: polypro glove liners are inexpensive and quite effective, I keep spare liners around because if I lose some, I don't want to be stuck without. I try and keep a pair of liners with every other glove pair I might want (one for the work gloves, one for the flip mits, one for the mittens)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;latex or nylon middle layer: I when it's below 30F, I often get a pair of disposable nylon work gloves over my polypro liners. This keeps my warm moisture in, keeps the wind out. This can be inconvenient and a tight fit has mixed results.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fleece flip-mits over liners: I find the fleece can block wind well, and that a mitten is warmer than a glove. I've commuted with Goretex ski mits, those work so long as you can grab the brakes, but flip-mits are a lot more convenient&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;brightly colored leather work gloves: you might find reflective or fluorescent colored workman's gloves at your hardware store. I like bright colored gloves because people can see you signal better at dusk or at night (and I've done a lot of dark, rainy commuting)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;gloves that match the task: like Atlas latex super-grip gloves, these are nylon mesh gloves dipped in latex rubber and you can get a tight grip on oily surfaces with them. I keep a pair with my tire cables in the car. (If you also have a car, consider keeping these around for cable changing.) I keep a pair of leather gloves handy when I need to work outside and I don't want to tear fleece gloves&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;gloves you can &lt;em&gt;clip&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;velcro&lt;/em&gt; together: losing a glove is the pits, and I am often shoving something in my rear jacket pocket and missing, and its cold enuf that I just don't notice that I've dropped it. I really like gloves that clip together because I'm less likely to lose them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;disposable hand warmers: if you have to change a tube or other task and you need to take your gloves off, or your hands get soaked in slush, keeping a chem hand warmer packet can really be a quick recovery for a very frustrating moment&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ziplock pogies (or proper pogies, even!) I've seen locals craft envelopes of coroplast over their drops or use gallon sized ziplocks over their flat bars to keep rain and wind out. I use gallon sized ziplocks with cardboard on the inside to be brightly colored and more stiffly open. This helps keep my gloves dry while its raining, visible in the dark (I should add reflectors), and the wind off. if it's above 25F, I can just do with my glove liners while my pogies are installed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this gives you some useful ideas. Best of luck on your winter commute!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T03:47:04.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5666" CreationDate="2011-08-25T04:00:38.460" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've commuted through two winters in the Pacific Northwest and I have learned how to be prepared for winter wet, snow and ice. In general, my advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;fenders...or love your mud stripe, in fact, I extend my fenders with panels cut from milk jugs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ziplock pogies if you need them&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;glasses (keeps the rain out of your eyes, and car splash too)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a full sized bike with a rack really helps because you have a place to put your layers or a change of clothes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you expect ice, which loves to live on shady, unplowed residential streets, a pair of studded tires is a wise investment (I have a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Winters)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lights: winter commuting puts me on the road before sunrise and after sunset, I need to be visible&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;your patch kit and pump: I have had more flats in wet weather because wet rubber cuts far more easily than dry rubber. Sharp gravel, nails, beer bottles, whatever it is, I'm more likely to get a flat in wet weather.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not found that tire size, or tire tread has made significant difference to me, I have learned you cannot ride on a snowy shoulder, you want to ride on the least snow or ice possible, otherwise you might just slide into the gully. Studs don't help with snow, deep tread might. For plain old wet weather, I have had no trouble with road tires, I didn't get any advantage from knobbies, in fact I replaced my MTB tires with road tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your commute!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T04:00:38.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-25T04:25:29.250" Score="20" ViewCount="10053" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Davis, and I ride bikes simply for commuting around the university and around town. My last bike is a hand-me-down from my sister's friend over 6 years ago; it's pretty much on it's last leg. So my friend has offered to give me his relatively new mountain (?) bike from Walmart (high quality for Walmart standards). I must admit, I know next to nothing about bikes, and I really don't want to spend the time or money getting a different (road) bike. I just know this one isn't a road bike. Will it be sufficient, or should I look into something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2222" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T07:43:30.990" Title="Is there something particularly wrong with exclusively riding a mountain bike in a city setting?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5666" CreationDate="2011-08-25T04:39:07.480" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you want a drivetrain with low gears, the ability to fit snow tires (and maybe fenders), and a bike that's agile and maneuverable yet able to stay upright and steady with little effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tires are good for snow? Wide tires are good, knobbies are good, but studded tires will help you on ice and packed snow (and maybe on fresh but wet snow, although that's debatable). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my run-through on various types of bikes and how they'd fare as snow bikes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Road bikes&lt;/strong&gt; generally take skinny tires and are unsuitable for ice and snow, although there are exceptions. The drivetrain will have those low gears, mostly, but these are built for speed, not slow riding. Road drivetrains are relatively fragile and would be more likely to be harmed by road salt and ice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Touring bikes&lt;/strong&gt; can be fitted with snow tires, and they usually have room for fenders and those studded tires (although they may get an accumulation of snow packed in between the tire and fender). They're quite sturdy and can take a beating, and the drivetrain will handle road salt well as long as you clean it from time to time, but you get what you pay for: a food steel touring bike is heavy and expensive. These will have clearance to mount fenders. Touring drivetrains are built with low, low gears to climb hills with a load of camping and cooking stuff - and low gears like this are great for traction on ice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Folding bikes&lt;/strong&gt; are amazingly useful in the city, as they pack up small (think: storage in a city apartment, and taking them on city transit). Small wheels can be hard to find studded tires for, but are amazingly nimble. My Dahon Curve with 16&quot; knobby tires does a respectable job in the snow. Downside: A bit more expensive that a bike of comparable quality, as they're more complicated machines. Because, well, they fold. An upside is that these bikes often come with internal hubs, which are amazingly resistant to snow and road salt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mountain bikes&lt;/strong&gt; are built for trails and dirt, come with 26&quot; tires - easy to find snow tires for, and stock knobbies can already handle light snow and ice fairly well. There's usually room for fenders as well. Mountain drivetrains will have the low gears you want for traction on slippery surfaces. Whether the drivetrain can take a winter depends on the bike, but most should be comparable to a touring bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BMX bikes&lt;/strong&gt; - Not sure if you can fit fenders on these, but I'd guess that's touch-and-go. 20&quot; studded tires aren't unheard of. Would make a good snow bike if you can find tires and fenders for it. My experience with small-wheeled bikes leads me to guess that these might be a little twitchy on snow - but the low center of gravity might compensate for that. Anyone have a comment on this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cruisers&lt;/strong&gt; are kinda like mountain bikes with a long wheelbase, a more upright and comfortable position, and they're not build for speed or hill-climbing. Unsuitable for snow or ice, unless you live in a very flat area and are okay with going very slow. Cruisers often have internal hubs or even a single-speed drivetrain, great for dealing with snow and road salt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, unless it has a very delicate drivetrain I'd go for using the mountain bike for snow and ice. These bikes are already built for rough conditions and, importantly, you can get 26&quot; studded tires fairly simply. BMX bikes usually take 20&quot; tires, which are harder (but not impossible) to find studded tires for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep your new bikes in better condition and will buy a bike specifically for winter riding - hardly unreasonable, many riders do this since winter riding is hard on a drivetrain - consider a used steel or aluminum hardtail mountain bike. The hardtail frame will give you incredible control. There's a question about flat bars vs. riser bars (as well as stem length) &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5550/how-can-i-move-the-handlebars-on-a-mountain-bike-close-to-the-rider-without-affec&quot;&gt;right here&lt;/a&gt;. (That bike will be used as a winter bike as well as a bike for gravel trails in the summer.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T04:27:17.120" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5685" CreationDate="2011-08-25T04:54:10.560" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magnificentnose.com/2011/07/04/why-bikes-from-big-box-stores-are-dangerous/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The question of big box bike quality&lt;/a&gt; to one side, the question should be not whether it's &quot;appropriate&quot; to ride this bike, but whether you like it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you physically comfortable riding the bike? If so, great! If not, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/bike-fit&quot;&gt;several questions here about bike fit&lt;/a&gt; that may help you &lt;em&gt;get&lt;/em&gt; comfortable on the bike. A bike that doesn't fit you will &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; be a good bike for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the new bike reliable and in good shape? Things to check: Do the brakes work reliably? Does the bike shift well? If not, bring it to a bike shop and have a mechanic look at it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes are great at navigating potholes and are good city bikes because they accelerate quickly. (That last is great for when the traffic light turns green - &lt;em&gt;zoom!&lt;/em&gt;) They're also &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5666/what-type-of-bicycle-would-be-the-most-suitable-for-riding-in-winter-in-the-city&quot;&gt;easy to outfit for snow and ice&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned with other cyclists' thoughts on what's &quot;appropriate&quot;... well, that's their problem and not yours at all. If you like the bike, I suggest you ride it and enjoy it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T05:18:58.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5685" CreationDate="2011-08-25T10:48:12.650" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common use for &quot;mountain&quot; bikes is city riding.  Usually the Walmart variety are a bit overdone with shocks and the like (what the kids like to see), but probably better suited for city riding than actual off-road riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated, if the tires are exceptionally &quot;knobby&quot; you may want to replace them with smoother ones (though not &quot;slicks&quot;).  Tire pressure should be adjusted to suit road conditions -- higher for smoother roads, but never so low that the tires &quot;bottom out&quot; going over bumps.  (And, if you replace the tires, you may want to get Kevlar belted ones, for puncture resistance.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, also as stated, it's very important that the bike &quot;fit&quot; -- that it's not too large or small for you, that the seat and handlebars can be adjusted to your comfort, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T10:48:12.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5685" CreationDate="2011-08-25T15:52:29.577" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on your standards for 'never being passed by another cyclist under any circumstances whatsoever'. This metric only matters to the competitive part of your ego and if your ego insists on being larger than the whole universe and is not fed by success in other areas of life then it matters quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to push your body ruthlessly hard and able to finesse traffic situations to always be ahead then there is kudos to doing so on a sub-optimal bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there will be that guy on a carbon fibre road bike that will move out to pass you without even bothering to draft you for what you are worth. He (or sometimes a she) will then vanish into the distance seemingly effortlessly whilst you fall apart with a stitch, torn muscles, sweaty cotton clothing and jumping gears, obviously to curse your heavy mountain bike with its stupid tyres, total lack of really big gears and the world's most unaerodynamic riding position. Naturally it will be the bike that is at fault during this moment, not your hedonistic lifestyle. You won't even think beyond envy about the guy that passed you. If you ever did find out what he thought of leaving you for dust then he would not let on to noticing you any more than any of the motorists did. That will be because he saw you ahead, did the necessary to pass you and then put a bit of a sprint on so you would not draft him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the pecking order of bikes, if you own a tricked out road bike then you have to pass everyone else that bothers to use the roads the pedal powered way. If you ride a heavy bike then you can let it go when someone that trains every day, carries not so much as a D-lock and rides a carbon bike passes you. And speed matters, that is why you ride instead of drive, right? So therefore, on balance, it is better to pass almost everything on a heavy MTB than to be on a posh road bike and not pass absolutely everything. So it sounds like you have the right bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a few contributors have noted, it's all about the tyres, innit. Perhaps more important than tyre choice is tyre pressure. If you get a track pump and keep them rock hard, e.g. 10% above the pressure recommended on the sidewall, you will thunder along, floating on air so much faster than everyone else (except the guy on the carbon fibre road bike that also relies on high pressure tyres for his speed). You might as well wear out the tyres that are on there, but, when you do change them, get the legendary Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres. With these you can participate in the stupid game of deliberately going over broken glass, to obviously not have to worry about a puncture any more than a tank driver has to worry about hitting a traffic cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much like a tank, an MTB is a finely tuned, well oiled machine that can survive a lot of abuse. Take your friend's offer up on the bike, sort it out mechanically, get the fit 'n' comfort right for you and, as Neil says, enjoy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for this 'I only ride to commute' attitude, that is far too sensible and in no way all of it. Your ride has got to be the highlight of your day, the endorphin rush that your body is physically addicted to. If you are not getting lost trying out new routes and learning the intricacies of your neighbourhood then you are not trying hard enough. Learn and master the streets and alleyways in a way that the guy on the posh road bike never would or could. Ideally you want to be always able to get from A to B quick 'n' fast on the roads or the more stimulating way on the car-free routes that exist everywhere. For this the bike you have coming your way sounds ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T15:52:29.577" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5662" CreationDate="2011-08-25T17:29:51.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding pretty much year round (I &amp;lt;3 my &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pugsley_complete/&quot;&gt;Pugsley&lt;/a&gt;) in the high mountains out AZ, I've had to come up with a few glove solutions for the different weather.  I don't think I would be able to ride every day without each of the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beard-freezing cold (10F and below):  &lt;a href=&quot;http://barmitts.com/&quot;&gt;Bar Mitts&lt;/a&gt; combined with the Gore or Pearl gloves below.  These make it so that at 20F I can ride with my summer gloves.  They work AMAZINGLY well and also cover the glove/jacket barrier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deep cold (20F - 10F):  &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/PnVfE&quot;&gt;Gore Radiator&lt;/a&gt; gloves.  For the most part wind and water proof.  The combined ring/pinky slot helps quite a bit, as my pinkies always get cold first, except with these gloves.  Super warm, and keep the elements out, but can get sweaty if the weather warms up much at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light cold (20F - 40F):  &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/opsfd&quot;&gt;Pearl Izumi Select&lt;/a&gt;.  These are a good mid-range glove.  They're not air-tight, but they do offer some protection and the gauntlet up the wrist helps with that gap between jacket and glove.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Summer riding (20F - 110F):  &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/Vg8p9&quot;&gt;Specialized Body Geometry - Ridge&lt;/a&gt;.  Just general summer riding gloves with padding in the right places.  Full-mesh back so they stay cool even on trips to the hotter parts of AZ, while still protecting your hands from falls and sunburns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest you check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pearlizumi.com/publish/content/pi_2010/us/en/index/products/men/ride/accessories/0.html&quot;&gt;Pearl Izumi's website&lt;/a&gt; for gloves.  They have a pretty wide array, and most of the ones they make in my size (quadruple-extra-jumbo) fit and work rather well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T17:29:51.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-14T18:44:43.140" Score="6" ViewCount="2332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be in Japan for a few weeks in January and was wondering if there are any Keirin races I might be able to attend.  Do they run year round? How would I go about finding a schedule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7058" OwnerDisplayName="eldpine" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T19:56:31.953" LastActivityDate="2019-09-14T06:52:18.317" Title="How to find track/Keirin races when travelling?" Tags="&lt;travelling&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2011-08-25T23:18:15.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After viewing countless videos, blogs, reviews, etc. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mechbgon.com/lock/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is the best page on locking I could find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excerpts from the page: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Lock the bike to something that is very strong, very securely&#xA;  anchored, and cannot be disassembled by thieves, such as a parking&#xA;  meter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ensure that the bike &amp;amp; lock cannot be lifted over the top of what&#xA;  you're locking it to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Two complete locks are better than one, especially if both locks are&#xA;  attaching the bike to separate strong immovable objects. Locking the&#xA;  bike in two places also inhibits thieves from using the bike as&#xA;  leverage to break your lock. Whether they succeed or fail, they'll&#xA;  damage your bike if they try.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;As a rule of thumb, cable locks are relatively vulnerable. Do not&#xA;  use cable locks as a primary lock, and only use them as a secondary&#xA;  lock if you are satisfied with the limited protection they offer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and there's a lot more there in the way of detail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-25T23:30:19.403" LastActivityDate="2011-08-25T23:30:19.403" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-25T23:18:15.807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-26T07:24:40.423" Score="9" ViewCount="2580" Body="&lt;p&gt;When carrying laptop / camera around I'm always stressed out when it starts raining. Living in a city one can easily avoid rain though - but on a long touring trip there will inevitably be cases when you have to bike through rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the safest way to protect gadgets (laptop, camera + lenses, phone, ...) from rain during a long bike trip? What kind of bag would give me complete peace of mind? Or should I just put them in a backpack and wear a good raincoat over the backpack? Anyone else biked with gadgets during rain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="705" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-26T18:01:30.563" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T08:36:25.927" Title="Protecting gadgets against rain during touring" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;rain&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="803" CreationDate="2011-08-26T08:49:04.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Becareful, I've heard from fellow riders of kids tackling Welsh tracks (notably the Marin Trail in North Wales), and the suspension fork riping itself loose from the front of the frame.  The split happened where the cross bar and down bar (right name?) meet the headset.  Apparently the kid had got the bike for christmas and rode a couple of trails, and literally the welds weren't strong enough the frame pulled itself apart.  Now that's a scare story, not to mention a parents nightmare!  I heard the kid was very lucky, and escaped with cuts and bruises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've taken a Raleigh Activator (about £200 new, 15 years ago) along the same trail and managed to bend the front forks quite considerably.  Mind you that was a steel frame, and the aforementioned story probably was done on a aluminium frame.  Of course, it all depends on the welding, as I've crashed a old steel road bike and the welding came apart on the rear chain stays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just becareful have fun, and if you see any hairline cracks appearing on the frame.  Get off, and push it home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T08:49:04.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5693" CreationDate="2011-08-26T10:14:21.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main compartment of most handlebar bags waterproof when closed. Better models have pockets to keep passports dry. There are also plenty of models on the market that have padding for cameras and lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brand most synonymous with waterproofing is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ortlieb&lt;/a&gt;. They make handlebar bags and camera kit inserts for them. There are plenty of other makes on the market, one feature to look out for is the Klickfix bracket that lets you quickly remove the bag for when you are off bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the computer, the best range of bags can be found in High Street computer shops. For light weight get a neoprene cover with no fancy handles or extra pockets. You can then put your neoprene sleeved computer in a pannier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T10:14:21.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5693" CreationDate="2011-08-26T11:03:40.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm touring (&quot;unloaded&quot;) I carry two moderate-sized panniers which end up being about half-full.  In addition to rain gear in both, one contains snacks, my daily medications, and other odds and ends.  The other mostly carries my full-sized camera, stuck in a large plastic bag if the weather is threatening.  My phone (turned off) is in a small plastic bag in one pannier pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year it rained 4 out of 6 days of our tour, and I had no trouble keeping the camera dry.  (In fact, the panniers have pull-out rain covers, so everything else stayed dry as well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never carried a laptop, but I wouldn't have too many reservations about sticking one in a pannier, perhaps padded by some clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T11:03:40.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="803" CreationDate="2011-08-26T11:19:00.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was fixing bikes for Christmas Anonymous we got a fair number of Wally World grade &quot;mountain bikes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common failure was probably the shifters.  Twist grip shifters were bad on about half the bikes that had them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, damaged wheels were probably the biggie.  (Though it may be that some of these were garage accidents vs from riding.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, bearings always needed tuning up and wheels needed truing, but that's not uncommon for any bike that hasn't been maintained since it was unboxed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bikes actually appear to withstand considerable abuse.  The only structural problems we saw were really old, rusty bikes, or bikes that had apparently been damaged in the garage.  I'm guessing that tire, drive train, and shifter problems are far more common than any sort of structural failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T11:19:00.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5693" CreationDate="2011-08-26T12:38:29.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most sporting good stores offer a variety of dry bags by sealine,koki and others.They are intended for kayakers,canoers and boaters. They keep things dry even when submerged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T12:38:29.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5693" CreationDate="2011-08-26T12:41:54.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me tell you from experience what doesn't work: Putting a cell phone in a the pocket of a &quot;waterproof&quot; jacket. I lost a phone that way, and another one saw the light at the end of a foggy, damp tunnel before returning back to life.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to, turn gadgets you are carrying off. Having electricity flow through the system just increases the possibility of problems. For extra paranoia, remove the batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rule of thumb is that any important electric should be &quot;double waterproofed&quot;. Usually this is accomplished with a plastic bag (not necessarily anything special), inside a supposedly-waterproof pannier. A small &quot;dry bag&quot; would be durable, waterproof choice for small electronics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For touring, I looked for and found extra thick and tough garbage bags to use as an inner liner for my panniers. These are far less likely to be punctured than garden-variety plastic bags. Again, nothing special-- just a grocery store product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a pinch, use two plastic grocery bags, applied around the electrics in opposite directions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gear does manage to get wet despite your best efforts, let it dry out thoroughly before turning it back on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T12:41:54.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5693" CreationDate="2011-08-26T12:44:42.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I double bag them (with heavy plastic bags) and then stick them in my supposedly (but not very) waterproof backpack.  As long as I don't go swimming like that, they stay dry.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T12:44:42.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5712" CreationDate="2011-08-26T13:32:17.577" Score="4" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several questions already about what's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4904/what-is-the-best-bicycle-lock-on-the-market&quot;&gt;best&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3164/whats-a-good-bike-lock-that-costs-less-than-30&quot;&gt;bike&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/141/best-bike-lock&quot;&gt;lock&lt;/a&gt;. I'm just looking for information on lock rating systems. I've found a couple rating systems in countries like UK (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soldsecure.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sold Secure&lt;/a&gt;) and the Netherlands (ART). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a similar rating system in the US? Do they have a decent website that you can search on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that Sold Secure has a searchable site, but it does not have all of the US brands and models in its database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T19:55:46.027" Title="Is there a lock rating system in the US?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5693" CreationDate="2011-08-26T13:55:56.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out Loksak, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loksak.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.loksak.com/&lt;/a&gt;. They make some fairly inexpensive waterproof bags. They come in various sizes and should have something that will work for you. They're pretty durable, much more so than a ziplock, and the seal is watertight even when submerged. They're also very lightweight and you can even use a touch screen while it's inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T13:55:56.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5286" CreationDate="2011-08-26T13:58:58.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a customized foldie, I would suggest Bike Friday, in Eugene, OR. They will make your bike with the options you prefer - whether a fixie, a 24 speed, or a hub. I see people doing west coast tours on Bike Fridays not uncommonly. (And I've also seen the tandem model and have heard about a recumbent model, too.) I also like the trailer attachment system they include which works with pneumatic couplings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T13:58:58.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5701" CreationDate="2011-08-26T14:27:15.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that some manufacturers, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/TechLab/SecurityRatings.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kryptonite&lt;/a&gt; have systems that they assign their own locks, but I do not believe there is an independent rating agency in the United States.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T14:27:15.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5706" CreationDate="2011-08-26T14:47:39.353" Score="12" ViewCount="2026" Body="&lt;p&gt;How well do road tires perform in rain and the snow? I've heard narrow tires are better because they actually can put more weight/pressure on the road through the wet/ice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought Continental Gatorskin tires, live in Boston, and just want to know what I should be thinking about in adverse weather conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding Cyclocross bike ~35-45 mi/week with 10 mi (roundtrip) commute. Occasional 30-40 weekend jaunts, and am coming from much more threaded cyclocross tires (I never rode off-road much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T04:28:42.197" Title="Road Tire Performance in Rain and Snow" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5705" CreationDate="2011-08-26T15:01:36.613" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slick tires, like your conti's, have no problem in wet conditions. If the streets you ride in Boston in winter are just wet with occasional light slush you're fine with what you got. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want knobby tires if you're regularly riding in something soft like dirt, mud, packed snow or very heavy slush. Slick tires are significantly more squirrely in those conditions. In that case, typical cross tires will be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T15:01:36.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5705" CreationDate="2011-08-26T15:27:27.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rain and snow aren't so bad.  From my experience it's ice, or powder on ice, that can be the real danger.  I have Gatorskins, which work just fine in the rain, and for the little amount of snow that I used them in, they weren't too bad.  One morning though, the temperature dropped below the dewpoint, and it was below freezing, putting a very thin layer of ice on the road.  I took a corner onto a bike path a little too aggressively and took a spill. Luckily no injuries. The bike path had much smoother asphalt than most roads have, adding to the effect of the ice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T04:28:42.197" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T04:28:42.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5727" CreationDate="2011-08-26T16:07:41.747" Score="2" ViewCount="918" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how much friction (rolling resistance) arise from the tires? I know this heavily depends on type of tire, their air pressure and the type of surface. I would therefore like to see any source describing the friction on any combination of these factors. I am only interested in knowledge that can be verified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why I am interested is to understand what the maximum potential is if developing new types of tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2233" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-08-27T12:20:43.987" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T12:20:43.987" Title="How much friction arise from the tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5719" CreationDate="2011-08-26T16:28:40.760" Score="3" ViewCount="12822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased some vintage 6-speed Shimano 600 downtube shifters. The package came with all the parts in a ziploc bag and it looks a bit bewildering. Any idea where I can find an installation diagram for this assembly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-10-02T04:35:28.373" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T04:35:28.373" Title="Shimano 600 downtube shifter installation" Tags="&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5709" CreationDate="2011-08-26T16:51:02.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Techdocs&lt;/a&gt; site has installation manuals and exploded diagrams of Shimano components. While it's possible your shifters may not be on the site, you can probably find a set that's similar enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T16:51:02.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5286" CreationDate="2011-08-26T17:06:36.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the only possible answer for this is to wait and see. If I needed to buy a folder &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt;, I'd stay away from Tern until they became a more established company. While it's possible they may take over the market and distribution channels, it's also possible that this new company may fold (no pun intended). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dahon seems a good bet for the near-term. Just supposing that Dahon stops distributing all spares tomorrow. If nothing else, there are many Dahon spares already in the wild, and will be available for puchase on eBay if nowhere else. Tern is a new company and doesn't even have that. (This is, of course, discounting the possibility of Tern and Dahon using any of the same parts.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a Dahon, I'd go ahead and buy one. The company's not going anywhere just now. If the Tern bikes look sweet, when they become available you can pick one up. Just remind yourself that they're a new company and spares may or may not be available. And lastly, if you want to stay away from the whole mess, you have other options for folding bike brands, as has been &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5286/should-i-buy-a-dahon-or-wait-for-a-tern-folding-bike/5703#5703&quot;&gt;pointed out&lt;/a&gt;. However, you're pointed out that your preference is to stay &quot;in the family&quot;. In that case, is upgrading your current folder an option?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This question can't really be answered satisfactorily either way, and I hope that in time someone else will write better answer as more information becomes available on the Tern/Dahon rivalry.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T17:13:37.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5701" CreationDate="2011-08-26T18:09:17.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple awnser to your question is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However their are a few other nations that have well established bike lock reviewer's, including &quot;Thatcham and Sold Secure in the United Kingdom, ART in the Netherlands, SSF in Sweden, and VDS in Germany&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_lock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(1)&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind I'd suggest considering that individual bike lock brands will likely have their own security rating, which you should take into consideration depending on how much you value your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-08-26T22:01:19.403" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T22:01:19.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5714" CreationDate="2011-08-26T19:29:23.867" Score="11" ViewCount="14445" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone here use protective tape to protect a new frame? To which areas do you apply the tape?  I have a new frame and I am worried that other bikes sharing bike racks will scratch my ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-26T21:36:03.043" LastActivityDate="2016-12-23T20:08:43.000" Title="How do you protect your bike from scratches?" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;protection&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5713" CreationDate="2011-08-26T20:03:18.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use helicopter tape. You can find it on Amazon or from most any race car supply shop. It's a little pricey but well worth it. It's very sticky and thick enough to absorb impacts from rocks. I use it on the bottom side of my downtube, on the drive side chain stay, and anywhere a cable is close to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T20:03:18.813" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5713" CreationDate="2011-08-26T21:11:21.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001CK0O58&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;protective covering&lt;/a&gt; is useful on the chainstay if it is prone to frequent chainslap. Other than that, I'd say that it is worse to try to protect your frame with tape than to just allow it to get an occasional nick and scuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a practical note, if you do get some paint chip on a steel frame it is a good idea to dab a little clear nail polish on it to prevent rust from getting started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if the frame is worth it, you can always have it professionally powder-coated when the time comes. It is like having a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T21:11:21.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-26T21:31:02.317" Score="-2" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 'dangerous precedent' looks to be set with the an update to the law in California regarding cellphone usage whilst on the move. Get caught talking on the phone (or texting) and you could get a $20 fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I put in a fair few calls on the move, I take a few calls too, I also reply to 'where are you?' texts. Naturally this is 'perfectly safe' to do, but, if I had to look out for Police mid-text then I could come a cropper. A $20 fine would not be a deterrent and 'on the phone whilst cycling' on my otherwise squeaky clean criminal record would be a 'badge of honour'. Hence, for me, I don't think that banning cell-phone use when cycling is a good idea, more of a 'gross infringement of my human rights...'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if law makers really thought about it they would ban MP3 players and hands-free phones because those can be dangerous when cycling. From that perspective this legislation is on the 'slippery slope'. As it is, if you did cause a multi-car pile-up with scores of innocent car drivers maimed or killed (just because you were on the phone to your mum) the Police could check your mobile phone records and get the proof required to do you for 'reckless riding'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I see such legislation as stinking of 'nanny state' I don't see how best to oppose a ban on cyclists using phones on the move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is a subjective question, however, we have had &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/623/is-listening-to-music-dangerous-while-cycling&quot;&gt;Is listening to music dangerous while cycling?&lt;/a&gt; and I would like a few quality thoughts on how best this type of legislation can be nipped in the bud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T21:59:57.983" Title="Should legislation to ban cyclists from using cell-phones when on the move be opposed, if so, how?" Tags="&lt;etiquette&gt;&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-08-27T00:00:33.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5709" CreationDate="2011-08-26T21:50:10.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Originally these levers came with three parts per side - the concave bit that goes on the downtube, the lever and the screw to hold it all together. The concave bit only goes on one way - turn them 180 degrees if it is not screwing together. And that should be it, see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Dura-Ace/SL-BS78/SI-6J60A_En_v1_m56577569830605258.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Dura-Ace/SL-BS78/SI-6J60A_En_v1_m56577569830605258.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you have them in pieces. You need these instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way they are set up is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chrome concave plastic piece goes on first, concave side toward frame, Flat side faces out &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brass washer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thin steal washer, 2 little protrusions toward frame, Make sure not to bracket the 2 little protrusions between the little metal tab on frame. Things won't fit or shift if you do this. The tab on the frame is a stop for the lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift lever, Make sure the tab on the inside of the lever goes in the notch between the 2 little protrusions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively thick rubber\metal washer. Metal side faces frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screw &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-162825.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-162825.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T21:50:10.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5718" CreationDate="2011-08-26T21:59:57.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most states people are prohibited from texting or using hand-held cellphones while driving.  I see no reason why the same prohibitions shouldn't apply to cyclists.  I'd consider it the height of folly to text while cycling, and, while I can sort of conceive of using a cellphone while cycling (though I'd never do so myself), I see no reason why cyclists should be accorded privileges that are denied motorists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I also consider it unwise to use any sort of in-the-ear music player while cycling, since cyclists depend so much on their sense of hearing to keep them aware of traffic.  The in-your-helmet or on-your-shoulders types are probably OK, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we want to be treated like &quot;vehicles&quot; we need to behave like vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T21:59:57.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5723" CreationDate="2011-08-26T22:24:20.800" Score="8" ViewCount="164083" Body="&lt;p&gt;How in the world does 17-18 inches match up to 53-54 cm?? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking up bicycle sizing charts and found the ones on the Evans website interesting, if somewhat confusing. For example, see the chart for Hybrid frame sizes: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/help/bike-sizing#hybrid&quot;&gt;http://www.evanscycles.com/help/bike-sizing#hybrid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the suggested frame sizes, I guess I don't understand how the inches vs. centimetres match up. A frame size of 17-18 inches or &quot;M&quot; is listed as being equivalent to a frame size of or 53-54 cm, however, a simple conversion shows that 17-18 inches is roughly equal to 43-46 cm. Strange! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2237" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T19:08:03.113" Title="Frame sizing: &quot;medium&quot; vs. inches vs. centimeters" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-26T22:34:27.240" Score="2" ViewCount="1080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to shave some weight off my wheels. I am currently commuting on a 26&quot; MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ETRTO size of the rim is 559x22 and the tires are 559x54. As my commute is through the city center, I want to change to slick tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question here is will the 559x42 slick tires fit on the rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, can I go tubeless with &quot;Stan's NOTUBES&quot; conversion kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2238" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-08-26T23:10:46.170" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T11:49:46.820" Title="Tire and rim sizing, tubeless conversion?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5721" CreationDate="2011-08-26T22:45:40.380" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially, bicycle frame sizing is inconsistent and possibly insane. &lt;strong&gt;Try the bikes out. Don't rely on a single number for the size.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically the size given is the length of the seat tube, but there's a lot of inconsistency in how that's measured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually a frame size given in inches is a mountain bike frame and a frame size given in centimeters is a road bike. A mountain bike frame will have a higher bottom bracket in order to clear obstacles better, and may also have a lower seat tube (to lessen the odds of your crotch colliding with it when dealing with rough terrain), so you can't simply convert one number to the other. If you look on that chart and compare the &quot;hybrid&quot; sizes to the &quot;road&quot; and &quot;mountain&quot; sizes you'll see that hybrid cm is close to road cm and hybrid inches is close to mountain inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even within a single basic bike type there can be a fair amount of difference in the bottom bracket height, which directly affects standover height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, mountain bikes and road bikes have two different sizings and you need to find out the appropriate size for you in each. Hybrids seem to sometimes be sized like road bikes or like mountain bikes, but the frame geometry probably doesn't really quite match up to either style of bike and they may report the sizing as what matches the other style or as the actual measurement. There's a lot of variation in hybrid geometries because there's a lot of different sub-types of hybrid intended for different kinds of riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the manufacturers aren't consistent, you really need to &lt;strong&gt;try the bikes out&lt;/strong&gt; to find the right size bike. Two bikes of the same basic type may be the exact same height but have different top-tube lengths and therefore fit you differently. If you're an experienced rider you might be able to work out what you need to know for a bike given the full geometry information that many manufacturers publish, but the single number size will never be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T22:45:40.380" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5721" CreationDate="2011-08-26T22:56:26.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also the fact that some measure from the top of the seat tube to the center of the bottom bracket (the old inch standard), while others measure from the top of the top tube (which may be well below the top of the seat tub), and others measure to the top or bottom of the BB rather than its center (some of which is supposedly the metric standard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T22:56:26.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2011-08-26T23:07:58.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't speak to the tubeless conversion kit, but pretty much any 559xwhatever tire should fit those rims. A given rim width can accommodate a wide range of tire widths. Seeing as how your desired tires are only 2 mm different, you'll definitely be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T23:07:58.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2011-08-26T23:08:57.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyres come narrower than 559x42 - you can get 26x1.1 Schwalbe Durano that inflate to 110 psi. With less material than a 559x42 tyre they will be lighter and run at higher pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continental Gatorskins come in 26 x 1 1/8&quot; and are popular with shops and riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these tyres will fit on your rims with no problems (as will 42). As for the narrower width, plenty of road bikes win races and deal with city streets on less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run narrow Panaracer T-Serv's on one bike and bigger Schwalbe Marathons on another bike. On balance I think that over-doing the thinness results in too harsh a ride with no real difference in weight/acceleration, so maybe your plan to use Stan's NOTUBES might be either a) more hassle than it is worth or b) the only way to get comfort and light weight. You will need a bullet-proof tyre though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure I would want a puncture with 'glued on' tyres, but that is not what you are asking. Ask at your LBS in the workshop for 'from the horses mouth' on the current deal on tubeless. Also check your rims make and model with 'Stan's' site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T23:08:57.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5708" CreationDate="2011-08-27T11:42:39.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about the rolling resistance from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.terrymorse.com/bike/rolres.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;terrymorse.com&lt;/a&gt;. Its the top link from a google search on &quot;bicycle tyre rolling resistance&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w9uOi.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1020" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T11:42:39.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2011-08-27T19:09:49.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode 5,000+ miles this summer (bike centennial route from VA to OR) with no flats on one pair of &lt;strong&gt;Vittoria Randonneur (700 x 28) tires&lt;/strong&gt;. Very impressed and the front tire still looks brand new. I'll probably replace the rear tire pretty soon, but it was a trooper too (all of the weight for my touring bike was on the rear wheel)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T19:09:49.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5691" CreationDate="2011-08-27T19:16:02.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;List of &lt;strong&gt;upcoming keirin races:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://keirin.jp/pc/raceschedule&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://keirin.jp/pc/raceschedule&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;List of &lt;strong&gt;velodromes in Japan:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Velodromes_in_Japan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Velodromes_in_Japan&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://keirin.jp/pc/jyolist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://keirin.jp/pc/jyolist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need help translating the page, Google Chrome's auto-translation is pretty good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2019-09-14T06:31:35.427" LastActivityDate="2019-09-14T06:31:35.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-27T21:00:08.150" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5656/is-there-an-optimal-postion-for-spd-cleats&quot;&gt;Is there an optimal postion for SPD cleats?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SPD cleats (and others) can be positioned on the shoe over a range of about an inch, forward or backward. Where do most people position it? What are the advantages and disadvantages of putting it near the toe, back toward the center of the foot, or half way in between?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T21:21:55.890" Title="Where should the cleat be on the shoe?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2011-08-27T21:29:05.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5757" CreationDate="2011-08-28T03:17:21.427" Score="10" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I recently rented a tandem for a day. I found that, because everything needs to be communicated -- starting, stopping, changes in cadence, shifting (which might cause changes in cadence), etc. -- we were talking continuously. This was good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to have is a simple, efficient vocabulary for communicating the essential information. Does this already exist in the same way that riders communicate on group rides? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I realize that we could just make up our own shorthand, if someone has already figured it out, that would be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-28T03:19:44.310" LastActivityDate="2018-08-24T20:24:16.613" Title="What is the common &quot;vocabulary&quot; for the captain and stoker to communicate?" Tags="&lt;tandems&gt;&lt;signals&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5761" CreationDate="2011-08-28T05:51:14.517" Score="6" ViewCount="52736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed my freehub has gotten quite a bit louder over the last few months. Several people have recommended that I lubricate the freewheel by tipping the bike on its side and dripping lubricant into the freewheel. However, I've gotten differing opinions on what to use for a lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to use a chain lube on the freehub or is there a better lubricant for this purpose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: In response to one of the answers, I have a freehub (2011 bicycle). Question edited appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastEditorUserId="1111" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T00:17:06.690" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T21:04:40.797" Title="What should I use to lubricate a freehub?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2011-08-28T10:38:26.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is better than I first thought.   I will explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rear wheel is not centered it is a much more serious business than the front wheel; I mean a millimeter or two.   The reason is that the former horizontal position of the cog-set has been used to adjust both the upper and lower derailleur limits and the cable tensioning barrel adjuster for the shifting.   If casual wheel centering is even a millimeter or two out, and it can be, then the shifting can get all messed up.   More so with the 3.95mm pitch of 10-speeds than with the 5mm pitch of the 7-speeds, but important for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel centering also has an effect on both sets of rim brakes.   With the 1mm or so block clearances of modern rim brakes, even a 1mm wheel centering offset can require brake adjustment and balance.   In fact the most common cause of inability to balance brakes is poor wheel centering.   It is as well that rear wheels are rarely removed in a casual way, though the brake matter still applies even to a front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not found a really good way to ensure quick centering of a wheel, and am reduced to sighting the center seam of the tire in alignment with the middle hole in the rear wheel arch.   A built-in feature would be handy if somebody would care to invent one, maybe something with a visual indication when the rim distances are casually equal,  bearing in mind that although centering is also desirable, it is that the wheel is put back exactly in the SAME position that most preserves the adjustments.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the question.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T10:38:26.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5754" CreationDate="2011-08-28T14:57:28.557" Score="4" ViewCount="10980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Bell bicycle helmet that is probably two years old, and the pads for the front and sides have disintegrated from sweat and are now little more than pieces of fabric attached to the velcro pads inside the helmet.  Does anyone know where I can get replacement pads for the helmet?  I have looked on retail sites like jensonusa.com and on the bellhelmets.com site and I can't seem to find them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2004" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T06:45:49.470" Title="Where can I find replacement pads for a bicycle helmet?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5734" CreationDate="2011-08-28T15:17:42.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Visit the friendly folks at your local bike shop at a quieter time of the week and ask. Chances are that they will have plenty of spare pads tucked behind the counter. Buy something else at the same time and they might let you have them for a favourable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one area where a local bike shop can provide the service that you do not get shopping online, where it is all too easy to get the wrong bits and pay postage for the privilege.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T15:17:42.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5732" CreationDate="2011-08-28T15:20:51.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freewheel (old technology) or freehub (current technology)?   People tend to use the terms interchangeably, but they are quite different. &#xA;A freewheel can be pretty effectively lubed with any medium-viscosity oil.  There's not much in there; a couple of ratcheting &quot;pawls&quot; and their pivots.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want anything that will gum up and cause the pawls to stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a freehub, the mechanism is pretty well-sealed and greased from the factory.  However, they are pretty easy to disassemble in most cases.&#xA;They do make a clever tool called the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://morningstartools.com/Pages/FreehubBuddy.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Freehub Buddy&lt;/a&gt;&quot; which lets you inject grease into the thing without disassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, at 40 bucks it's a bit steep for home use where you would only use it every couple of years or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastEditorUserId="1789" LastEditDate="2013-02-17T16:10:55.593" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T16:10:55.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5734" CreationDate="2011-08-28T15:28:44.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're for sale at any grocery, drug store, or discount store.  You just have to walk away from the &quot;cycling&quot; section (which is usually very small in most grocery stores) and to the &quot;feminine hygiene&quot; section (which is much larger).  And rather than &quot;helmet pads&quot;, look for a package labeled &quot;maxi pads&quot; or some such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find nice absorbent pads (about 3/8&quot; thick) with an adhesive strip.  One pad will last a long time, but they're cheap enough to discard daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that I'm being serious -- perhaps not &quot;perfectly serious&quot;, but I've used these in my own helmet for decades.  And one of the reasons I use them is because I sweat profusely, and they help greatly to prevent sweat running down into my eyes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T12:06:10.197" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T12:06:10.197" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2011-08-28T20:46:14.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have horizontal drop-outs, you might also have threaded holes for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dropout_%28bicycle_part%29#Adjustment_screws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;drop-out adjustment screws&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. These are &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/dropout-adjustment-screw.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;M3 screws held in place with firm springs&lt;/a&gt; that allow you to finely adjust exactly where in the drop-out the rear axle rests. If you have adjustment screws set-up right, you can be assured that the rear wheel is straight by merely yanking it backwards with some force before tightening the quick-release. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have indicated you judge the placement of the wheel by comparing the gap between the tire and the left/right chainstays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T20:46:14.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5743" CreationDate="2011-08-28T21:41:07.217" Score="13" ViewCount="14961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that a seat &lt;strong&gt;too high&lt;/strong&gt; can cause:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hips rocking trying to extend to pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pain in the back of the knee&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that a seat &lt;strong&gt;too low&lt;/strong&gt; can cause:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can't fully extend legs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pain in front of the knee&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my problem: I'm getting a little bit of &lt;strong&gt;front&lt;/strong&gt; knee pain AND my hips rocking back and forth. It suggests my seat is both too high and too low at the same time!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps my saddle position is too far forward, making the seat feel like it's too low, therefore aggravating my knee. Should I try lowering the seat height but also moving back the seat position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2237" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-28T22:15:45.740" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T03:15:01.433" Title="How to adjust seat saddle and saddle position for knee pain?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;injury&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2011-08-29T00:46:22.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much extension of the leg do you get?  The old way to check this (I think there are now other approaches) was to have someone hold the bike (or have it in a stand) while you sat on it and pedaled backwards with your &lt;strong&gt;heels&lt;/strong&gt; on the pedals.  With this setup your legs should be fully extended at the bottom of the stroke.  Then, when you place the balls of your feet on the pedals, you will get the slight bend in the knee at the bottom of the stroke that is &quot;just right&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you using toe clips or &quot;clipless&quot; pedals?  Most of the time using toe clips will help knee pain somewhat (though for some people the opposite is the case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you should see an orthopedist and have some exercises/stretches prescribed for the knee.  The proper exercises will likely provide an order of magnitude improvement in your pain situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T00:46:22.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6443" CreationDate="2011-08-29T00:54:46.863" Score="0" ViewCount="3651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about bike parts, so I don't really know which make is better, So I hope you can help out here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said I don't really know how they are, but I've always had a thing for how Specialized bikes look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to buy something that can be used for both commute and some trail, so I'm looking at CrossTrails and HardRock 29ers... but it turns out I have a 20% discount off cannondale bikes... which is quite appealing. I could probably buy a better bike and pay the same, or just get a comparable bike and save some money. What cannondale bikes compare to those I mention or which should I get so that it would cost me around the same after the 20% discount?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;extra..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cannondale shop is right in my company's campus so that would make it easy when it needs maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can also get 10% off specialized in one specific store, but the shop is  25+ miles away from where I live.. so that could make it troublesome when to take it needs its maintenance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've dug a bit into the Cannondale bikes.. how would they compare (component/build wise) to say a Trail SL 29er 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1673" LastEditorUserId="1673" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T22:00:11.317" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T21:28:41.153" Title="What Cannondale bikes compare to a Specialized Crosstail or Hardrock?" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;29er&gt;&lt;trails&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-09-13T02:34:47.413" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5732" CreationDate="2011-08-29T01:24:36.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a real freewheel see (@M. Werner), you want the lightest oil you can find.  Never use WD40.  Synthetics can work too.  Anything heavier, and (especially in cold), the pawl springs can't snap back fast enough to create an ratchet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bike wrench in the time when freewheels and freehubs both existed, I saw too much oil/grease more often than not enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is loud, just add a bit of light oil and move on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2250" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-02-17T02:21:51.710" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T02:21:51.710" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5739" CreationDate="2011-08-29T03:15:01.433" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's true that your hips rocking indicates that the seat is too high, there is a different rule of thumb for knee pain related to the fore and aft position of the saddle.  It's easy to remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your knee hurts in front, your seat is too far forward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your knee hurts in the back, your seat is to far backward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to remember is that small changes can make a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T03:15:01.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5750" CreationDate="2011-08-29T03:48:22.167" Score="12" ViewCount="17078" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a few years, road bike suspension forks were used at Paris-Roubaix, but now they seem to have disappeared. Are they still being manufactured? If not, why (aside from UCI regulation) did they not persist, e.g. for cyclocross or city riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFq1F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T10:51:31.127" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T19:45:26.480" Title="Are road-bike suspension forks still manufactured, if so, where?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5767" CreationDate="2011-08-29T04:00:15.267" Score="30" ViewCount="11224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering the purchase of a bicycle for riding off road, and have heard a lot of buzz about 29&quot; mountain bikes. However, I am not particularly interested in technical riding - although I would like to be able to ride through most things, even if I have to do so slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am leaning to a CX bike because I am familiar with the handle bars and geometry. However, the 29&quot; also ride very smoothly. I can see that the tires, handlebars, suspension, and geometry are different, but what are the consequences of these differences that I need to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mountain Bike:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W9f9N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cyclocross Bike:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d1nss.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="839" LastEditorUserId="444" LastEditDate="2011-09-06T10:18:43.807" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T03:04:42.417" Title="What are the differences (and their practical implications) between a 29&quot; mountain bike and a cyclocross bicycle?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;29er&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2011-08-29T05:00:50.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative that I've found works reasonably well on the cheap is to put the punctured tube inside the tire and then inflate the new tube under that (so you end up with the tire, two layers of thinner rubber from the flat tube, and then the inflated tube, then the rim)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gives an extra layer of protection stopping the thorn from penetrating the inner tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also happens to be a whole lot cheaper then most other solutions (you've already paid for it) and without the problems of something like gel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2251" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T05:00:50.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5745" CreationDate="2011-08-29T11:45:24.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say 29&quot; in mountain bikes is a buzz word indeed. If this is your first mountain bike, do not make it 29&quot;. The selection of bikes, wheels, tires are quite limited comparing to 26&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decision MTB vs. CX is entirely up to you. All depends on what do you mean by off-road. Off-road can be country roads or Alps singletrack, or downhill trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience wheel size is not the major factor in being able to ride off-road. It is all depends on rider technique, bike can only help. If rider is afraid going down the slope, no bike will get him down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to choose between MTB or CX, I'd go for MTB with the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclocross bike is not quite road bike and not yet mountain bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can put slick/thin tyres on MTB and it'll be rolling better. But you can't put fatter tyres on CX.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want rougher terrain, MTB can go anywhere, with CX you'll struggle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I guess you already own a road bike, why not try something new?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. my opinion is biased towards MTB, as I'm MTB rider for more than 12 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T11:45:24.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2011-08-29T11:49:46.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, once I had very wide DH rim on my MTB city bike (that was tempo fix, I had no other rims to put on). On that rim I had 1&quot; slick, and the rim was slightly wider that the actual tire. &#xA;So you should have no problems with any width of a tyre on your rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T11:49:46.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2322" CreationDate="2011-08-29T12:47:01.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just some other tips to add on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a buddy with you when attempting a significant descent in a remote area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay cool and try to mentally anticipate what is going to happen before you start reacting. Pick your line and think about contingencies if a car or obstacle shows up. Look far ahead, not just at your buddies in front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get aggressive with speeding up unless you've been on the road before and knows what lies ahead. Gravel is awful on a descent and you'll almost certainly wipe out on it if you try to take a turn on it at high speed. This also applies to wet roads to a lesser extent (although paint stripes are like ice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware of &quot;tar-and-chip&quot; sections that can appear with little warning even on roads that have no need of maintenance. Rural municipalities are infuriatingly unpredictable about this type of maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want to slow down a little bit (eg to put a little more distance between you and the guy in front), try sitting up or standing instead of applying the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, it is good to alternate front and rear brakes. I've heard of outright blow outs in the case of tandems (that's the worse case scenario). However, you'll notice that the brakes fade in power as they get too hot and this happens on any kind of bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T13:18:06.527" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T13:18:06.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5744" CreationDate="2011-08-29T12:51:43.740" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Rockshox at Paris Roubaix were a Greg LeMond thing. Whatever Greg competed in a few 'out there' cycling innovations came along with him. Remember those tri-bars that gave him the aero tuck position to beat Laurent Fignon in the Tour de France? On that event he also had his own road bars that had an extra position, where the drop handlebar end plugs would be, his bars turned in 90 degrees to give an extra lower position. Anyway, it was his Team-Z that introduced the Rockshox on Roubaix. Seems that your well chosen pic duly notes his special handlebars, the Rockshox and 'Team Z'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greg's bars and forks were not widely adopted although his time-trial bars most certainly were. In any evolutionary process some mutations just don't work. As for the forks, the problems with them were that they were heavy, the brake touched the rim and they introduced 'sloppiness' in the front end. Imaginably these problems would be overcome but they were not. I don't think UCI regulations had anything to do with it, the product at that time was just not that good. MTB forks were a bit dubious too back then, only when the disk brake came along did the 'brake rub' problem get properly solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of 700c forks on hybrid bikes from mainstream manufacturers, generally of the low-end 'Suntour' variety with a spring that does the work instead of any sophisticated oil/air arrangement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to go to a bike shop and do your own compare and contrast of the bikes with 700c suspension forks. The travel is around 50mm or so and there generally is no adjustment on them. I think Trek do a few models with them, Giant did too on the more expensive 'Expression' models. Although experiences are subjective, I found that along gravel trails the hybrid with no suspension felt better than the efforts with suspension. I wondered if the suspension was doing anything at all, it did not float over the bumps like a full-suspension mountain bike does and there was no real cut in handlebar vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a Suntour offering with coil spring, preload adjuster and lockout. This model is typically found on things like deluxe Trek hybrid bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X1fOT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes are V-brake, the hole in the top of the brace is for mounting a reflector and you cannot put a nice set of road brakes on there. Other versions of this low end fork exist for roller cam brakes, which you obviously do not want!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some more desirable models made by Suntour for cyclo-cross and the hybrid market with 'proper' air adjustment and rebound, maybe even remote lockout. I am not sure if these models are OEM only or if you will be able to get hold of them locally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bAQnF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Cyclo Cross, checkout the Suntour NRX models, with disk and all the sophistication you could wish for in 700c:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EAKrr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/dstore/products/Forks/2845/NRX/SF11-NRX+S+ELD+700C+LTD.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/dstore/products/Forks/2845/NRX/SF11-NRX+S+ELD+700C+LTD.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That fork should give you the ultimate in comfort for the front end of your road bike. Although for cyclo-cross it has the makings of a very tidy commuting machine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T12:51:43.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5744" CreationDate="2011-08-29T12:59:37.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suntour makes a significantly different designed road suspension fork I found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2010/10/suntour-swing-shock-suspension-fork-for-road-bikes-and-fixies/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wired Magazine&lt;/a&gt; while Googling.  Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/index.php?screen=sh.product_series&amp;amp;tnid=2837&amp;amp;sid=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Suntour product page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jUkRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T12:59:37.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5758" CreationDate="2011-08-29T11:02:36.637" Score="6" ViewCount="47412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to buy a cheap bicycle in Germany. Is there any place to search for a used bicycle (like a market or an internet site)? I don't speak German so places where people might speak English are preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2255" OwnerDisplayName="Sergej Andrejev" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T16:37:36.337" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T01:49:46.783" Title="Where to buy a used bicycle in Germany?" Tags="&lt;used-bike&gt;&lt;germany&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-08-30T17:21:07.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5745" CreationDate="2011-08-29T14:27:15.903" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a mountain bike (26&quot; or 29&quot;) you've got&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension: basically, suspension lets you get into more trouble. There's terrain you'd need to bail on (or crash on) without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat bars: Beneficial for two things (IMO)—maneuvering and lifting the front wheel to clear obstacles. Wider bars give more leverage, which may be useful on, say, a very rocky trail, and will attenuate small, unintended steering inputs on fast descents, which also may be a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More upright position: Also good for lifting the front wheel (less weight naturally carried on the handlebars), looking around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fatter tires: can handle more varied terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a roadie. I don't ride CX, but as far as I can tell, a CX bike is &quot;road-plus&quot; in terms of its capabilities. Put slicks on it and it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a road bike. For grass and dirt, it's fine. For riding over exposed tree roots and big rocks, not so great. A mountain bike is really better suited to off-road riding if that's where you'll be spending the majority of your time with this bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T14:27:15.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5734" CreationDate="2011-08-29T15:10:27.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the list of Bell helmet spares available in the UK:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madison.co.uk/searchresults.aspx?vertical=Cycling&amp;amp;tier1=Helmets%2c+Eyewear+%26+Protection&amp;amp;tier2=Helmets+-+Accessories+%26+Spares&amp;amp;manu=Bell&amp;amp;resultsperpage=10000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.madison.co.uk/searchresults.aspx?vertical=Cycling&amp;amp;tier1=Helmets%2c+Eyewear+%26+Protection&amp;amp;tier2=Helmets+-+Accessories+%26+Spares&amp;amp;manu=Bell&amp;amp;resultsperpage=10000&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit: that link has died. Try this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=bell+bike+helmet+replacement+pads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google&lt;/a&gt;, or this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.webersports.com/Cycling/Helmets-Bicycle-and-Skating%20/Bell-Helmet-Pad-Set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;US supplier&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your helmet is on there then you can find the product code and Google that for someone online that has that part in stock and can sell it to you. Note that Madison is the UK distributor and has different product codes to elsewhere, so a google of the exact product description might come up good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know the product code then your LBS should have no problems ordering it for you. Note that helmets change every 2-3 years and you may not be able to get spares for an older model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to treat yourself to a new and affordable helmet, this will come with spare pads that you can use on your existing one. Affordable ones have a lot going for them and they still have to pass the same tests as the posh ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO the Bell helmets are very poorly designed bits of cheap Chinese polystyrene with straps and fit that are not a patch on the European makes, e.g. MET helmets. the MET helmets have straps where the adjustment buckles don't want to align 90 degrees to your skin (to dig in), a clasp that doesn't catch the skin under the chin or straps that need tightening every time you put the thing on. Then there are the Specialized helmets - to the higher Snell standard than the CPSC 'as tested by the manufacturer' standard used by Bell/Giro (did you know they were the same company?). Of course you could also go 'completely Dutch' and forego the 'nice hat' entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, if the LBS is useless, consider the 'order by part number' route or get a replacement helmet which will come with enough spare pads for your existing one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T07:16:54.240" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T07:16:54.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5756" CreationDate="2011-08-29T15:39:36.977" Score="4" ViewCount="6583" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preamble&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm building up an old early 80s Terry Precision bicycle. Most of my time has been spent researching and sourcing the front wheel. It's a smaller frame which uses a smaller front wheel for shorter women. I learned that many small Terry frames use an ISO 520 24&quot; front wheel so I went hunting around for that. None of my local LBS could source any 520 parts. I found a couple of online retailers that had the 24&quot; road rims (i.e. not 24&quot; BMX rims, typically ISO 507) and tires/tubes. I bought two rims, two tires, and three tubes for future spares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built the wheel recently and noticed that the brake reach on the front was about 20 mm more than on the rear wheel, which is a standard 700C (ISO 622). I realize now that the earliest Terry Precision bikes used the even-less-common 600A wheel size, or ISO 540.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now I'm in a strange situation where I have invested quite a bit into a slightly wrong wheel size. At worst it will sit 20 mm lower in the front and I'll need to find a longer reach caliper brake for the front rim. Is that a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side question: does anyone know any companies that sell ISO 540 road rims (and tires/tubes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This whole front wheel situation kinda rags on my otherwise purist Terry restoration so I'm not sure what the best course of action is to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Turns out that ISO 540 is the size of some wheelchair rims today (along with 507). Has anyone ever used a wheelchair rim for their bike? Where can I find one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I know these are many questions and that's against SE guidelines, but to be clear, the main question I have is whether or not using my ISO 520 wheel would be a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="1364" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T17:01:12.367" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T18:50:12.190" Title="Terry front wheel (ISO 520 vs 540), big difference?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5755" CreationDate="2011-08-29T17:10:02.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting—Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tire-sizing chart&lt;/a&gt; refers to the 540 size as &quot;British juvenile or wheelchair&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case: The 520 wheel (which his chart lists as the Terry size—looking at the Terry website, I see they sell both sizes) will pitch you forward slightly and give you a slightly steeper effective head-tube angle. I don't think that would be a big difference. And you'll need to adjust your brake pads. In theory the size difference could be offset by using a fatter tire, but in practice, I think fatter tires are not made for the 520 size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of anyone using a wheelchair rim on a bike—the only possible downside I would imagine might be A) if they aren't available in the spoke count you want, or B) the braking surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might contact Terry directly and see what they think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T17:10:02.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5731" CreationDate="2011-08-29T17:22:37.370" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;http://mx.bikefriday.com/pipermail/yak/2011-August/021280.html&quot;&gt;posted a link to this question&lt;/a&gt; to the Bike Friday Yak list - tandem riding is popular there - and got back a few responses, this one in particular. I'm posting this here simply because nobody else seems to have an answer; If this isn't typical, please feel free to edit this answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard signalling vocabulary seems to not exist. Teams need to ride together a lot until signals evolve in time, and every team seems to develop their own shorthand organically. This may not be the most efficient way to do this, as the loss of one rider in a team essentially means that the rider left will need to form new signals from scratch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From poster John S. Allen: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In my experience, it's either &quot;slow down, I'm scared&quot; or &quot;wow, this is fun!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But seriously, see this by Bill McCready:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gtgtandems.com/tech/propmethod.html&quot;&gt;http://www.gtgtandems.com/tech/propmethod.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article spends a lot of time on how the team needs to function as a unit, getting a rhythm going. McCready uses the example of mounting the bike and starting, but it's easy to see how this applies to shifting, leaning into turns, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also these pages by Sheldon Brown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tandem.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tandem.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, this quote is relevant to this question: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The team becomes more than the sum of its parts. An experienced tandem team develops a very special level of non-verbal communication, via subtle weight shifts, variations in pedal force, and general empathy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After a few hundred miles together, you will find yourself coasting at the same time, shifting without the need for discussion, and and maneuvering smoothly even at slow speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is not just a matter of each rider's acquiring captaining/stoking skills; when two equally experienced teams switch stokers, something is lost, and this special communication doesn't happen...it really is unique to each couple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I can imagine that things might be different in competition, it seems there are no standardized communication cues. A tandem team needs to suffer through the initial stages of learning to read both the situation and each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Again, I stress that this answer is only the results of my research. If the information here is incorrect, please downvote and leave a comment.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T17:22:37.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5752" CreationDate="2011-08-29T18:08:06.750" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;eBay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/anzeigen/s-fahrrad/k0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/anzeigen/s-fahrrad/k0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open in Chrome and use 'Google Translate'. 'Fahrrad' is your keyword.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Most German people speak better English than some English people do!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T18:08:06.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5745" CreationDate="2011-08-29T19:18:47.470" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in Belgium the Cyclocross is used a lot. The championship is a very popular winter sport, and is covered live on national television. It is specially suitable for the terrain here. Flat terrain with a lot of mud and sand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cyclocross bike cuts through the mud, and rides on the solid undergrond of the mud, where the MTB floats on the mud. The brake system (cantilever) is more capable for dealing with mud as disk brakes. And they are a lot lighter, specially compared to the 29-er.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MTB has sturdy tires and suspension, and smaller gears. It is more suitable for rocks, climbing and downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the organized tours (flat and muddy) here you see a lot of MTB-26's, and a few 29-ers, since they are more comfortable to ride. There are about 2% cyclocross bikes. They are mostly a bit faster, but this could be due to the rider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even on the terrain that the cyclocrosser is made for, some &quot;pilots&quot; complain about their wrists after 2 hours of cycling, since they have no suspension and more weight on their arms. Tree roots an stones give more punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;On sand, grass and mud the cyclocross bike is a bit faster as a 29-er, but not as comfortable. On rock, steep hills or longer off-road rides the cyclocross bike is not that good.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="444" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T10:08:12.483" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T10:08:12.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5745" CreationDate="2011-08-29T20:06:20.940" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Comparing a 29'er and CX is like comparing apples to oranges. The 29'er is a special variation of the Mt. Bike. The CX is a completely different beast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extending what Traimax said, I think you may have narrowed this down the the wrong choice ( a &quot;false choice&quot;.)&#xA;(And I have ridden a CX bike (my first bike out of college, 18 years ago) and currently have a Mt. Bike (similar to the above) and a road bike (similar frame to your CX above but with very thin tires). I could not easily (and thus never did) ride my CX bike off road. I could have ridden it on a flat, smooth dirt/cinder trail but not on a gravel trail (if the gravel was more than 1&quot; or so deep).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differene b/t a 26&quot; and 29&quot; is minimal (in my very limited experience riding one a few times) unless you're riding on very rough stuff and then it just means you get over stuff a little easier, but I suspect it won't be the difference b/t being able to do a particular trail or not. However, the difference between skinny and wide tires is &lt;em&gt;enormous&lt;/em&gt;. It can easily be the difference between being able to do a trail or now if that trail is muddy or has a lot of gravel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend flat (mt bike) style handle bars and wide(r) tires.  I don't think the suspension (of a mt. bike) matters much unless you're riding on rough trails. And you do save some weight and a lot of cost by leaving out the suspension.  If the two options you presented are your &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; options, I'd say go for the Mt. Bike. (It'll cost more but give you more flexibility).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have other bike options then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger decisions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drop handlebars&lt;/strong&gt; (style in your CX photo) vs &lt;strong&gt;flat&lt;/strong&gt; (Mt Bike style). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't think there is much advantage (despire your experience with it) of drop bars unless you're doing a lot of road riding. Even on my road bike, I'm usually not in the drops, I've got my hands on the horizontal bar above it. In fact, most modern Road Bikes I've seen have a style of shifter that is integrated into the brake levers so that you can shift from the drops or the flats, so I think a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of people spend a lot of time on road bikes on the flat portion of the bars (not in the drops).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are a lot of advantages to the Mt. Bike style handlebar. It gives you much better manuverability, control and levarage. You can pop the front wheel over a rock (or more easily bunny hop over a stream or mud on a trail, or a curb on the road) and your hands are more solidly on the bars.    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thin tires&lt;/strong&gt; or Mt. Bike style &lt;strong&gt;wide tires&lt;/strong&gt;. Thin tires are faster b/c you can inflate them to a higher pressure and thus get less rolling resistance.  That is their only advantage and it really only applies on flat pavement.  (Might apply on hard packed ground but your reduced traction offsets this, meaning you're going to have to brake in turns. So I'd say the speed advantage is a wash unless its smooth ground with good traction (i.e., paved). Thin (skinny) tires give you less traction and sink into gravel or soft ground.  As TrailMax said above, you can always put slicks (smooth tires) that are thinner on the Mt. Bike  (although not quite as thin a tire as you could on the CX boke) but you &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt; put much thicker tires on the CX bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T20:06:20.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5732" CreationDate="2011-08-29T20:08:30.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use chain oil (Chain-L Number 5) and it sucks. have to relube every 4 weeks or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to really solve your problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;option 1&lt;/strong&gt;. open it and use a proper grease. shimano duraace grease, or, as recomended here (i haven't tried yet but will) slick honey grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;option 2&lt;/strong&gt;. buy a new one. if your model is common, buy a replacement for $15. cheaper then a pack of grease! i like my 5sp 13-30 too much to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;option 3&lt;/strong&gt;. the stubborn (my current option)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lay it on it's side, gears up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;roll some rag behind the biggest cog (oil will come out from there).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OPTIONAL. if you have a spanner tool, loose the top cover. 2 turns should be fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;warm your bottle of chain oil in the sink under hot water (as hot as you can hold your hand in... if you have a thermometer, should be around 130F, or 55C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drop the warm oil on the top of the freewheel cover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait for oil to go in. if you feel like repeat from step 5.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you loosened your cover, tighten it back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put back the wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T20:08:30.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5766" CreationDate="2011-08-29T20:43:48.997" Score="4" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;As winter approaches I am looking to upgrade my cycle lights. My commute takes me on an unlit section of canal tow path so I am looking for suggestions of a super bright headlight or cycle light that can illuminate the road ahead. Any suggesions? (UK Seller if possible.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In response to the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would say my buget is under £50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need to use it for 2 x 25 mins a day and then charge overnight is fine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I went for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.akslen.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Akslen lights&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought an HL100 (no longer made but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebikelightshop.co.uk/Akslen-hl-100-front-bike-light.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;still available&lt;/a&gt;) the front and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.akslen.com/TL_60S.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;akslen TL605&lt;/a&gt; for the rear. Prices were quite good ~ 50 UK Pounds for the pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A year later they are still working fine, the front is quite good for lighting up the darkness, but as it points straight forward I intend to buy an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akslen-LED-Cycle-Helmet-Light/dp/B00901IEVW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1350374405&amp;amp;sr=8-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Akslen Headlight&lt;/a&gt; this year as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a pair of cheap lights (£1 each from poundland) which I use as a backup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2223" LastEditorUserId="2223" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T08:06:49.113" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T08:06:49.113" Title="Need a bright headlight for offroad, UK" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5755" CreationDate="2011-08-29T21:11:38.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of 'long reach' sidepull brakes around, the problem is that none of them are any good. Department store mountain bikes come with them, they are a rare find sold as replacement/accessories. They flex/swing fore/aft quite a bit and tend to be made of poor quality materials with a spongy feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the parts you have bought, there are laws regarding distance selling and you can send them back hassle free. However, if you want to plough the 520 furrow, give the folks at Airnimal a call. They are very nice people and support their 520 rim bikes with spares at reasonable prices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airnimal.eu/Reference/FAQCham.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.airnimal.eu/Reference/FAQCham.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for 600A (540/541), these were a common size on 'juvenile' 5 speed drop-handlebar road bikes by the likes of Raleigh up until ~1990 when 24&quot; wheel MTB bikes came along, decimating any demand for anything else. Typically they were steel rims rather than alloy with Maillard bolt-on hubs. 650A made it to the high end, for time trial bikes, but 600A was 'juvenile' only in those days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source you may want to investigate is Alex Rims. Drop them an email to see what they can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alexrims.com/product_detail.asp?btn=1&amp;amp;cat=1&amp;amp;id=44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.alexrims.com/product_detail.asp?btn=1&amp;amp;cat=1&amp;amp;id=44&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T21:11:38.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5762" CreationDate="2011-08-29T21:24:33.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ayup-lights.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ay Up lights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two sets of these lights, one on my handlebars and one on my helmet. They are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amazingly bright, I've never seen a brighter light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very light - even with the light and battery on my helmet it's not uncomfortably heavy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long lasting - The battery lasts 3-6 hours on a charge!!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incredibly rugged - There is a lifetime guarantee on the lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the company has brilliant customer service. They respond to questions really quickly and often have upgrade programs running where you can send in your lights and get the optics upgraded to the new models at a greatly reduced price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're a few $$$ but I am so satisfied with them I've recommended them to everyone I know and everyone else who has bought them has been just as happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ayup-lights.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ayup-lights.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q9e60.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T21:24:33.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5762" CreationDate="2011-08-29T22:09:00.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i went with cheap chinese flashlight. just get some mount hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;read a few reviews here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forum.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forum.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with the $200 you need for the kit Mac recommends, you can get a couple decent lanterns and rechargeable batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will be much cheaper. but there are some really good models in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even cheaper is getting them directly from china, i use this site: dealextreme.com&#xA;beware! it's filled with crap product. read the reviews and buy the good ones. they are very few! they have like 500 models, and only 3 are worth anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also have the mounting hardware to attach the lights to the handle bar or helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;buying from that site will be cheaper than anything, but expect one month delivery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T22:09:00.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5762" CreationDate="2011-08-29T22:24:44.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This ultimately comes down to money, however there are plenty of other factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Form factor - a bike light with a battery held onto the frame with velcro is a PITA to take off the bike and put back on, not what you want to be spending five minutes on whilst you pop into Tesco's for a pint (568ml) of milk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beam focus - LED lights have came a long way but you do not get beam focus with them. Older bulb technologies don't have the output per watt but have a better light quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight - older lights with a couple of D-cells or older off-road lights with bulky lead or NiMh can weigh a lot. Not a problem on the bike but not good in your bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durability. Most lights are fairly throwaway. They break. The contacts go. Switches fail. This is better with LED lights than older bulb technologies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brackets. These need to be replaceable, with spares readily available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Peripheral illumination. Some models give quite a glare that is distracting in the dark. Ideally you want a light that does not leak light out upwards into your eyes. However, you do want left-right illumination for when at roundabouts etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switches. You don't want your light going off in your bag and you don't need to cycle through ten flashing modes to get full beam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Batteries. You don't want expensive button cells with zero capacity. You also don't want to take the light apart to recharge it. However, there is a lot to be said for using a gaggle of AA cells that can be easily charged without getting a special charger or being locked into a given brand for replacements. All battery technologies are fairly duff so you don't want to be buying a light that has no strategy for replacing the batteries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brightness. Too bright and you will annoy other canal towpath users. Too dim and you will not be able to see.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You actually need two lights front and rear as lights do fail, you do forget to charge the batteries and two sources help other road users gauge your distance. You can swap out your reflector bracket for a Cateye unit that is a reflector + basic flasher. This can stay on the bike when you are parked up and even if you forget your lights then you will have something on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what are the recommended best compromises for the main beam, if shopping in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can hand over your money and buy a USE Exposure/Hope Vision or some other expensive effort. Lupine, Light and Motion and several other brands occupy this space and it all comes down to spending more money than you would for car headlamps. Be warned that these are the highest warranty returned parts sold in a bike shop and no brand seems better than another as far as warranty returns are concerned. Go with what your LBS stocks as they will be doing the warranty return for you...! Expect to hand over a three figure sum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy some expensive Cateye's. These will not be uber-bright and the beam will not be as focused as the £££ models, however, they are good enough for the typical British tow path. The 610 is particularly desirable, the 320 is rubbish, as is the 220 and 530, the 520 is a bit of a design classic and IMHO barely passable for tow path use if you cannot afford the 610.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go dynamo. This depends on whether you are willing to get a new front wheel with one of those cool Shimano dynamo hubs, a B+M headlamp or some 'cheap and nasty' 'Basta' tyre-side dynamo. If you are up to speed then these give out plenty of light and you don't have to take them on/off the bike. With a backup Cateye you get light when you need it and an 'auto-dim' feature for when you pass someone on the footpath and need to slow up for them. I currently don't run a dynamo but wish I did, they are great. Shopping for one might be easier in the Netherlands where most bikes have one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go DiY. You have seen those torches that cost next to nothing in Screwfix? They are designed for real men, people wearing hard hats and boots and are not namby-pamby like bike lights. Get one of these and permanently tape it to the handlebars and you will have all the light you need for the season. Leave it on there and let someone nick it if they want to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think long and hard about mounting lights to a helmet. Would you Blu-tak a knife to your helmet? Having a light on a helmet is not going to make the helmet perform any better when you crash. You really do not need a light embedded in your skull and a light isn't going to just move out the way when you go flying over the bars. Putting a light on a helmet is true Darwin Award stuff and makes you wonder about these people that are massively zealous on the whole telling-people-to-be-good-little-cyclists-and-to-wear-a-lid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the ever-changing availability of lights and sales, etc. I have tried not to be overly specific here, however, on balance, for bang-per-buck, in the UK, with 'warranty' issues considered, I would try to get the Cateye 610 with some extra basic flasher on the reflector bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T22:24:44.533" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5745" CreationDate="2011-08-29T23:05:22.720" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few very good answers on here already, however, I feel that a few pointers have been overlooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Height&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure whether 29-ers suit all riders. Height comes into it, a 29-er imposes a high handlebar and heavier wheels than a 26&amp;quot; MTB. IMHO you need to be 6&amp;quot; or taller for the big wheel to make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Standover height&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance between you and the top tube is important on a MTB, regardless of your skill level. Most MTB's have a 'compact geometry' with big seat-post. Out the saddle it is useful to not have a 'five bar gate' between your legs, so, if you do go for the MTB, err on the smaller rather than the larger frame. You don't get this with CX bikes as a rule, although I would not be surprised if Giant do make one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Brakes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most 29-ers (if not all) come with disc brakes. CX bikes can come with discs but that is the exception rather than the rule. Disc brakes give much better stopping power, with little need for the rims to clean first. This gives you much better control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;History&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclo-cross pre-dates MTB-ing by some decades and the bikes for the sport evolved from road bikes. Meanwhile, the MTB evolved from a few Californians wanting to have fun, any notion of competition came along later. They were not tied down by UCI rules and UCI rules have always served to hinder rather than advance bicycle design. CX bikes are essentially a legacy product, for a 'formula' sport, not 'pure evolution'. They were not that popular before the mountain biking boom and have not been subsequently. Meanwhile, the separately evolved MTB is the 'weapon of choice' for many, many cyclists and CX ideas such as drop bars have not lasted long on MTB's (they have been tried by Johnny Tomac and Specialized did make a 'Rock-Combo' model with them, this was short lived). Wisdom of the crowds is that the MTB rocks off-road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Suspension&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a long time I thought Suspension was a solution looking for a problem. However, there is suspension and there is suspension. A full suspension top end bike by the likes of Cannondale is amazing off road, you can roll over anything without losing speed or control. Cheap suspension is no good at all, i.e. the effort you get on a £300 MTB, perhaps useful for going up a kerb but that is about it. Modern, expensive full-suspension bikes are ridiculously light for how much is going on and a delight to ride. Well worth the investment, unless you are going XC with a bit of road to get to the trail in which case a hard-tail with front lockout is better for the ride as a whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other uses&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a road-bike person then you probably carry nothing. Sometimes it is useful to have a bike you can carry stuff with. An MTB is really well suited to putting a rack on the back and carrying &lt;em&gt;stuff&lt;/em&gt;. That may be just a trip to the shops or a long distance tour. Whatever your choice - CX or MTB, do look for those magical eyelets on the rear dropout for putting a rack on there. It may not be what you want to do now, but down the line it just might well be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T23:05:22.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2011-08-30T01:54:19.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Jaunt with Jim&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimklobuchar.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jim Klobuchar&lt;/a&gt; runs an annual week-long bike ride (now in in its 37th year) somewhere in Minnesota or an adjoining state (2012 is reputed to be planned for Wisconsin).  The group is generally about 125 people, most in the 50-70 age range.  Daily mileage varies greatly from day to day and year to year, from 35 to 80, with usually about 350 miles total in 6 days riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely not a race, but no inn-to-inn puffball ride either.  Riders have not been &amp;quot;self-contained&amp;quot; in 20-odd years (except for one holdout), and there is a repair van, but no organized sag support.  Camping is in schoolyards and the like (there is a luggage truck), with meals usually arranged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T01:54:19.483" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-30T01:54:19.483" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2011-08-30T02:45:26.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Copper Triangle, Copper Mountain, Colorado&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://coppertriangle.com/course.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Copper Triangle ride&lt;/a&gt; is a spectacular 78-mile loop over three Colorado mountain passes:  Fremont Pass (elevation 11,318’), Tennessee Pass (10,424’) and Vail Pass (10,666’). The course goes by three ski resorts, many old mining outposts, and camp Hale, the historic training ground for the 10th Mountain Division. The total elevation gain is 5,981 ft. It is typically the first Saturday in August, with hundreds of participants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T02:45:26.800" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-30T02:45:26.800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2011-08-30T02:56:50.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wsmrmwr.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Sands Missile Range Century&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike 108 miles across the White Sands Missile Range, normally closed to the public. The fall ride is usually not announced very far in advance, and may not occur every year. There is a strict policy of no photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T02:56:50.743" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-08-30T02:56:50.743" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-30T03:26:01.733" Score="9" ViewCount="7086" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is late summer in the US and I am starting to look forward to autumn and winter mountain biking. I have a carbon fiber frame though. Didn't get to ride it last winter due to a broken collar bone (almost landed that jump). So, anything to be concerned about riding a carbon fiber mountain bike in cool/cold weather? I am talking anything from 50°F/10°C down to sub freezing temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1725" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T21:17:26.833" Title="Can a carbon fiber mountain bike handle cool/cold weather?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5732" CreationDate="2011-08-30T07:32:00.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;since you commented that it freewheels perfectly, all you need is some chain oil in there as mscantland said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any oil really (just &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; wd40!). general purpose oil will work, like 3-1. whatever you have around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to apply follow my &quot;option 3&quot; from the other answer. it will help with the noise. which is totally 'cosmetic' if it freewheels nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T07:32:00.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5752" CreationDate="2011-08-30T07:58:57.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically not in Germany but 2 kilometers from the border, there is this market:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velostation-strasbourg.org/bourse-aux-velos.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.velostation-strasbourg.org/bourse-aux-velos.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is run by a non-profit. A few hundred bicycles at each event, you can put your own for sale too. I bought one of my bicycles there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastEditorUserId="611" LastEditDate="2011-08-31T01:49:46.783" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T01:49:46.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5762" CreationDate="2011-08-30T09:44:30.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue with bike lights, as with most consumer electronics and everything else, you get what you pay for. While £50 is a decent budget, you will be making some sacrifices along the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a front light that illuminates, rather than just allows you to be seen, it will require more power, which means either buying lots of AA/AAA cells or using rechargables - so you'll need to factor these consumables into your equation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the top-end options, e.g. Exposure, Hope, Lupine et al, where you'll be spending well into three figures, as you come down in price, you will need to decide what's important. Cheaper models won't stand up to punishment - your canal tow path, is it bumpy? How good a mounting bracket does your light have - will it fall off easily and disappear into the water? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long will it last? Modern LED models generally have great lifespan, but the cheaper the unit, the cheaper the components. They might last you this winter, but next and the one after? Do you want to spend £50 every year or spend a bit more and replacement less often? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there's the other option of changing your route to avoid the unlit section - that's free and doesn't need special equipment! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I have an Exposure Toro front light which was expensive but is now almost two years old and the light and batteries are as good as the day I bought it - still absolutely great when in on an unlit trail. Worth every penny. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T09:44:30.437" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="959" CreationDate="2011-08-30T10:11:35.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought was to use a bag that has a reasonably strong handle and just pass the bike lock though the handle – this will stop most opportunistic snatches.  Given the correct handle design it could also stop someone opening the bag.   (I have done this with my panniers) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I thought that fixing a &lt;strong&gt;very loud&lt;/strong&gt; rape alarm in the bag, with the strap locked to the bike lock would be good.   When (if) the bag is stolen, the rape alarm will activate as the strap will be pulled out – at that point if the bike has been left in a good parking spot a lot of people will know the theft is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-03-12T00:23:05.320" LastActivityDate="2018-03-12T00:23:05.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5771" CreationDate="2011-08-30T10:55:36.920" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did a quick look around... And Zinn in Velonews gets questions like this. Short answer is: no problem. Essentially carbon fiber is a pretty tough material and barring manufacturing flaws should put up with a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1859" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-01-13T21:17:26.833" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T21:17:26.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="959" CreationDate="2011-08-30T11:59:47.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my panniers I took some lightweight aircraft cable and ran loops to the screws that secure the bag to its frame.  These loops are long enough to run my regular lock through them, and they're stuffed in the bag when not in use.  In my case the purpose is to prevent &quot;opportunistic&quot; thefts by stupid kids, but the technique could be used with heavier cables to discourage more &quot;professional&quot; thieves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, with any sort of fabric bag the fabric can be cut, so there is a practical limit to the amount of security provided by this technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T11:40:38.580" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T11:40:38.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-30T16:00:22.630" Score="3" ViewCount="1780" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Backstory: Total newbie regarding repairing cycles and the proper cycling terminology, so please take that into account.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actual story: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a fall and the rear wheel started touching the brakes (non-disc), so I took it out aiming to remount it and as a final result I broke the quick release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a long walk home, went and bought a new quick release (the wheel has some nuts to some effect I'm not 100% sure about). I installed it according to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/video-how-to-remove-and-install-wheels-with-quick-release-24220/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; (and also followed the &quot;tight enough to leave a mark on the hand, but no tighter&quot; rule I read about somewhere), seemingly aligned (in the middle between the frame). Now, I see two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wheel tilts sideways about 1/4&quot; or a bit more, it's not fixed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When under load the wheel ends up either touching the brakes or directly the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus I think that I'm either misinstalling the wheel, or that after the fall something else got broken or damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual question is, how to find the actual problem (misinstalling the wheel or something else, or both) and its solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeTWTbodzao&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a video&lt;/a&gt; of how the wheel tilts, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEZT1VXagLU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another video&lt;/a&gt; of a possible culprit (damaged spoke). Could that damage explain the amount of tilting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastEditorUserId="2261" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T20:03:38.147" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T23:01:45.077" Title="Mountain bike rear wheel tilts after remounting" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-30T16:06:07.717" Score="4" ViewCount="1974" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week on a ride my chain popped off the inner chainring and  managed to get stuck between the chainring and frame. I (probably foolishly) tried to work it free by yanking on the chain and that just got it wedged in harder. I took it to the shop and the repair guy is telling me that even though the damage looks superficial (there are some gouges near the bottom bracket where the chain rubbed against it), because it's a carbon fiber frame he can't guarantee that there won't be some major failure of the frame sometime down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How concerned should I really be about this? I don't care about the cosmetic damage. How obvious will it be when/if the damage gets worse to the point of being a safety issue? Will there be telltale signs of a widening crack/tear that will give me some warning well ahead of time, or is there a risk of a random catastrophic failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2262" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T19:44:31.503" Title="How worrying is damage to a carbon fiber frame near the bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5778" CreationDate="2011-08-30T17:09:48.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be some spokes or the rim got damaged. You should try touching them to see if any is broken. If they are loose you should tighten them to align the rim. If you can't do it yourself a bike shop will do it for you easily. Broken spokes can be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T17:09:48.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5771" CreationDate="2011-08-30T17:20:04.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using carbon handlebars on my mtb for two years now with any issue.  Even did a race that was so cold that my drink tube froze before I even started!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T17:20:04.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5796" CreationDate="2011-08-30T17:41:50.047" Score="2" ViewCount="4414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently own a 60's/70's vintage light for my bike. I have it attached to my Trek 820 series 26&quot; mountain bike at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The light worked perfectly fine until one day when I broke the bulb inside. The bulb was marked on the side being 2.5v, even though I know for a fact that the generator on the back wheel puts out about 6 volts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried several bulbs from Radioshack, and none work or are as bright as the previous bulb inside my Reynold's light. Is there anyplace on the web where I can Find such a replacement bulb? Are there any stores that mint have what I'm looking for? I tried Home Depot also, no luck there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2263" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T18:58:43.597" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T21:40:23.203" Title="Where can I find a bulb for my vintage 70's generator light?" Tags="&lt;us&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5778" CreationDate="2011-08-30T17:54:02.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, get the bike up on a stand or flip it over on its back and futz with the wheel until it spins mostly free.  Then turn it slowly while you observe the clearance between rim and a brake pad.  The distance between the two should remain virtually unchanged (no more than 1/32&quot; or so change) as the wheel does a full circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the above clearance changes as you rotate the wheel then the wheel is warped and needs to be trued.  This is something that someone with reasonable skill can do, but since you're such a newbie you should take the wheel to a shop to have this done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wheel spins straight then it's simply a matter of getting the wheel properly centered and tight. Put the wheel into the dropouts, get the quick release snug but not quite tight, and assure that the axle is pushed all the way into the dropout slots. Then observe that one side (usually the derailer side) &quot;bottoms out&quot; first in the slot while the other side can go further, causing the wheel to twist slightly.  Sight both sides of the wheel between the seat stays and move the not-bottomed-out axle in and out slightly until the space between the tire and both seat stays is the same.  Then fully tighten the quick release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know where you got the &quot;leaves a mark&quot; rule for tightening a quick release, or how you're interpreting it, but the QR needs to be quite tight.  It should take substantial pressure from the heel of your hand to close it.  If you can close it with your fingers only (and you aren't a gorilla) then it's probably not tight enough.  Better too tight than too loose!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T18:05:46.933" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T18:05:46.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5779" CreationDate="2011-08-30T19:44:31.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be concerned. The bottom bracket is the most heavily stressed part of any bike, and carbon has a catastrophic failure mode--that is, you don't get any warning. One minute it seems fine, the next minute, you've got carbon-fiber shrapnel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a first measure, I might clean it up as best as I can, take some pictures, and send them to the manufacturer or the manufacturer's area rep to get their feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T19:44:31.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5745" CreationDate="2011-08-30T19:51:00.000" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 29&quot; MTB and a Cyclocross and while I use the CX for winter commuting, trips to the zoo and riding through the park, the 29er is basically for singletrails and mountains only. I rode most of the trails I ride on the 29er with my CX, too (pretty hard work though :) ), but I HATE riding the MTB on the road. So basically I would ask myself, do you want your bike strictly for &quot;sport&quot; in the mountains and woods? Go for the MTB then. Or do you want a versatile bike for everything including some mild wood &amp;amp; trails? That would be the CX.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I also think a 29er is a much better choice of MTB if you take longer trips or end up on roads once in a while.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T19:51:00.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5789" CreationDate="2011-08-30T21:04:34.710" Score="4" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Eurostar website has a page that really should say but doesn't:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eurostar.com/UK/uk/leisure/travel_information/at_the_station/bicycles.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.eurostar.com/UK/uk/leisure/travel_information/at_the_station/bicycles.jsp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing I don't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would also be interested in any other experiences/hints/tips anyone has for transporting bikes on the Eurostar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2240" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T21:15:04.277" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T23:18:34.837" Title="Do I need a bike bag / box to put my bike on the Eurostar?" Tags="&lt;uk&gt;&lt;public-transportation&gt;&lt;europe&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5788" CreationDate="2011-08-30T22:11:04.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That page actually lays it out pretty well. You have three options: box/bag your bike, pay £30 for a reserved bike space, or pay £22 to ship your bike such that it will arrive within 24 hours of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reserved bike spaces and shipping don't require you to box or bag your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I traveled on EuroStar and on French trains, I had a friend handy with a sewing machine make me a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=housse+&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8#q=bike+cover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;housse&lt;/a&gt; out of lightweight ripstop nylon. By turning the handlebars sideways and removing the pedals and wheels I was able to get it mostly within the size restrictions - it was bulky but fit in the luggage area, which is all that matters. It was slightly longer and wider than allowed but no one checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T23:18:34.837" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T23:18:34.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5778" CreationDate="2011-08-30T23:01:45.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is definitely a case of loose bearings in the rear hub based on what I see in your video. Adjust the bearings before doing anything else. As suggested you should probably take it to a reputable shop for the bearing adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you take the whole bike into the shop for the bearing adjustment any reputable shop will make sure the quick release problems and brake/frame alignment problems are all resolved at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earl&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T23:01:45.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="368" CreationDate="2011-08-30T23:12:06.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely a chain tool. And make sure it's a decent one and that you know how to use it. This, more than any other tool has saved me from a long walk home while I've been out riding the trails. With one you're on your way in 5-10 minutes. Without one you're walking or, if you're lucky, rolling downhill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also a really good idea to carry either a headlamp of have a light fitted on your bike if you're riding in the evening. If you get lost or have a breakdown and spend more time than you planned you'll be glad you have this one as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T23:12:06.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5782" CreationDate="2011-08-30T23:14:28.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take the light into your local auto parts store and have them peruse their catalogs of specialty bulbs for something to fit this. Auto parts catalogs often have specs that will help understand the type of bulb base options, wattage/power and voltage requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, I found this site in about 30 seconds that should help out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imperialinc.com/grp194.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.imperialinc.com/grp194.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T23:14:28.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5745" CreationDate="2011-08-30T23:20:47.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;CX bikes are really intended as special purpose bikes (Cyclocross racing), however plenty of people do use them on the road. I would bet very few people use them where mountain bikes typically go. As someone else said, comparing a CX to a MTB is like comparing apples and oranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could shed some light on where you plan to do most of your riding then the choice might become more clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2265" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T23:20:47.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5797" CreationDate="2011-08-31T01:10:08.877" Score="15" ViewCount="3104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heading into the southern hemisphere spring I'm starting to contemplate another summer of having sweat running into my eyes and down my face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of lightweight headbands from Netti (that I can't find anymore) that have been reasonably good. They still get saturated on a long ride though and they're old enough that they're starting to smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-212963.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;interesting thread here&lt;/a&gt; with some discussion around this area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done some research and seen a couple of options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Halo Headband&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.haloheadband.com/default.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://store.haloheadband.com/default.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the incredibly lame website they look like a reasonable option, with a fairly unobtrusive design and also the features to redirect sweat away from the eyes when they get saturated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sweat Gutr&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sweatgutr.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sweatgutr.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks like it's very effective, but I'm not 100% sold on having all the sweat running down near my ears. Plus how would it fit with helmet and glasses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cotton Bandanna&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general opinion here appears to be that once it's wet, it's useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T13:21:43.483" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T16:43:25.337" Title="How do I keep sweat out of my eyes?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5782" CreationDate="2011-08-31T01:28:46.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is nothing more than a standard dynamo front bulb - 6V 2.4W is what you really need (the rear is 6V 0.6W). Most Northern European bike shops carry screw-in Halogen versions of them for 'Union' brand headlamps of your vintage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Vt5O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not running the rear light from the dynamo then you need a 6V 3.0W bulb in the front. (2.4W + 0.6W = 3.0W).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the simple two-bulbs-in-parallel circuit is that if you remove one light (e.g. a broken wire) then too much current goes through the remaining bulb and it blows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about it, go to the bike shop when you have a problem with the bike, not the electronics store or the car-parts store or the aromatherapy store. The staff in the bike shop do know a thing or two, they have heard of bicycles running dynamos and, even if they don't have spare dynamo bulbs to hand, they do have a supplier that they can get them from for you in a reasonable period of time for a price that will not cover their time dealing with your enquiry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you visit the LBS first, they may only be able to get you the 2.4W version, if they can get you the 3.0W version then get it and a flashing light for the back. In that way you will have a rear light that works when you stop, more light up front and less likelihood of blowing the bulb (because there is no rear bulb to blow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, get a new front headlamp unit for the dynamo, these may be special order from the bike shop, however, such a unit will have niceties such as a better reflector and lighter construction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="22503" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T21:22:28.813" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T21:22:28.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5795" CreationDate="2011-08-31T02:19:23.117" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had good luck with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.headsweats.com/categories/Our-Products/Classic-Styles/&quot;&gt;Headsweats&lt;/a&gt;. They are pretty absorbent and keep my balding head somewhat protected from the sun under my helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T02:19:23.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5804" CreationDate="2011-08-31T04:56:35.273" Score="18" ViewCount="5996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally wear a cotton t-shirt when I ride. If I get a bike jersey, how much difference will the reduced air resistance make at, for example, 20 mph? I realize it's not possible to be precise, but I am wondering how much difference it makes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T14:00:23.753" Title="Can I ride faster with a bike jersey?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5795" CreationDate="2011-08-31T05:33:59.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just use a helmet &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sixsixone.com/Catalog_661Bike.aspx?id=96655908-799e-4f1b-b040-158eac5c7e38&amp;amp;product=2214739e-ed5c-4328-b33d-02dfa1473c2b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;661 recon&lt;/a&gt; with good ventilation and liner, that absorbs sweat and dries fast. It really helps, sweat doesn't gets at your eyes. And you can get spare liner if you are going to a long trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T05:33:59.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5798" CreationDate="2011-08-31T06:34:04.937" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rinard/aero/aerodynamics.htm&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; contains a table with improvements that can be made with various aero clothing and equipment. Unfortunately the baseline is already a cycling jersey, not a standard cotton t-shirt. Given the improvements that clothing can provide though I would suggest the bike jersey would make a pretty big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, though the big improvement is in comfort. A sweat wicking jersey is so much more comfortable than a wet, heavy cotton t-shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T06:34:04.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5798" CreationDate="2011-08-31T09:30:22.890" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several differences between a plain cotton t-shirt and a cycling jersey. @Mac has already highlighted the sweat wicking potential. Some jerserys are tailored, so they'll certainly be more comfortable and possible aero-dynamic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all a tight t-shirt won't necessarily be worse aero-dynamically - it might flap around less, aside from the different flow properties of the chosen materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many jerseys have other attributes though: pockets, zips, reflective strips, longer backs - all of these things might help make other aspects of your attire more stream-lined. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T09:30:22.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5795" CreationDate="2011-08-31T09:35:03.600" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When wearing a helmet (and you're in Australia, so I assume you are) I almost always use an undercap, be it a classic styled cycling &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Casquette&quot;&gt;casquette&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, a skull cap or, in winter, a thicker beanie, perhaps with ear protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summer a casquette works well because I find that the sweat does form on the peak, but can then either drip off or evaporate more easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T09:35:03.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5795" CreationDate="2011-08-31T11:29:59.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Halo headband combined with a &quot;maxipad&quot; (stuck to the inside of the helmet) is what I use.  The maxipad can be changed at every stop if need be, but usually one is sufficient for an all-day ride.  (And I sweat quite profusely.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T11:29:59.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5798" CreationDate="2011-08-31T12:58:32.143" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you will not ride faster in any meaningful way unless you're doing time trials at an elite level where mere seconds (or less) of improvement are gained through optimizing a long list of equipment (with clothing in the middle of that list). As always, the overwhelming determinant of performance is training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real reason for wearing a jersey is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sweat management. Wicking fabric has to lie against to the skin to actually wick the sweat and transport it to the exterior where the wind will evaporate it quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pockets in rear. Pockets are useful. The only place you can reasonably put them is in back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long rear. It looks better when you're hunched over the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A zipper. So you can regulate temperature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fitted + Flat seams. Flapping fabric is annoying on a ride and seams tend to painfully rub on long rides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T12:58:32.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5798" CreationDate="2011-08-31T13:03:04.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to be precise, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rinard/aero/formulas.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; originally by Rainer Pivit but found on the excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; site has the relevant formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short - the effort required to reach and maintain a given speed is a combination of overcoming the forces of gravity, friction and wind resistance.  The key factor in reducing wind resistance is minimizing the frontal area of the bike and the rider. A tight, form fitting t-shirt or cycling jersey will provide some benefit, and will reduce the 'parachute' effect of flapping clothing. But at the rates of speed we are talking about for recreational or utility cycling, the impact will be minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T13:03:04.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-31T14:00:27.527" Score="5" ViewCount="971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to get a thin rain coat.  I have a good one for the depths of winter (it needs water proofing again), but it is way too hot to wear it any other time. (I am a portable radiator.)  My hope is that it would be thin, so not too hot, and that it will pack down into a small size so I can store it in my bag whilst riding. (I like to do long rides so may not want it all day.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do 70/30 offroad to on road riding, as much off road as I can get but I don't have the best selection of hills at my door step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am happy to build up my layers so that the coat is only there to stop the rain.  Main points I guess are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stops the rain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will not get me too hot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;packs away small for transport when not needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swear I saw a good review of half a dozen or so such jackets a while ago, but for the life of me I can not find them anymore.  Does anyone know of a good jacket, or even better, links to good reviews to be able to look at the best options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-08-31T19:14:36.297" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T15:19:04.770" Title="Mountain bike rain coat / jacket (packable, not for winter)" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;rain&gt;&lt;jacket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5806" CreationDate="2011-08-31T15:20:13.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently introduced by 'Altura' (the poor British man's 'Endura') is the 'Pocket Rocket':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/waAOR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This jacket is distributed by Zyro and widely available in British bike shops. Visit a stockist and try for size wearing what you expect to be wearing underneath, i.e. more than a T-Shirt. Remember that when buying from the LBS you may pay RRP rather than 'online price', however, you won't pay postage, have to wait or be bereft of a coat if a seam goes and you need to take it back. (Altura seams are pretty good b.t.w.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Available in black, yellow or red versions of hi-viz, the reflective parts of this jacket will dazzle on-coming motorists. A neat feature are the thumb loops that enable you to keep the sleeves tucked under your gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO a lot of 'breathable' does not work, so there is no point bothering with it. There is some rating of breathability for this jacket, but you can expect some 'boil in the bag' aspect. Waterproofing is claimed 100%, just what you asked for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pack-to-nothing jacket is truly useful to just have. It is also nice to have a relatively plain jacket without any fancy colours or extra seams. This jacket keeps it simple. The pack size is exactly what you want, i.e. very small:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gSWLR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can dangle it on the handlebars if you are in casual clothes and without a bag. If you get this jacket, expect people you know to want to permanently borrow it. Also expect to see other people on bikes with a jacket remarkably similar to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T15:20:13.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-31T18:14:12.440" Score="18" ViewCount="16808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding about 300 miles a week for the last 2 years. I'm not riding in races, just riding with friends. I always ride 60+ miles (95+ km), and I'm in excellent shape. I have a low end road bike. When riding up hills or in strong head winds I am very fast. But when I ride on flat surfaces I can't seem to keep up. I'm wondering if it's the bike or my riding style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2272" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-08-31T19:30:27.617" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T06:36:58.113" Title="Why am I slow on flat surfaces?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5809" CreationDate="2011-08-31T18:48:39.523" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;300 miles a week is extremely high mileage. Very few people can pull that off. I'm surprised that you feel you need to ask for advice. :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said the way the cyclists increase speed, like runners and swimmers, is to train with intervals. This means increasing your speed until you're at/near/slightly-above lactate threshold, holding it for a minute or two, then resting for short time and repeating this multiple times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that this is a matter of following a training program. At 300mi/week you definitely have the &quot;base&quot; down (far more than most folks), now you just have to practice intervals/speed-work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T18:48:39.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5809" CreationDate="2011-08-31T21:04:36.323" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to understanding your situation is its unusual nature. Speed on hills is mostly determined by power-to-weight, while speed on the flat is mostly determined by power-to-aerodynamic drag. The problem is that speed in head winds is also mostly determined by power-to-aero drag, so the conundrum is why you're good in head winds but not on the flat under calmer conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is truly your problem, the answer is more likely to be the numerator (i.e, power) than the denominator (aero drag). Some riders tend to have more difficulty managing power on the flat than climbing; this is thought to be related to crank inertial load. Crank inertial load (CIL) can be thought of as related to &quot;how much momentum is maintained with each pedal stroke&quot; and varies with the fourth power of gear ratio, so when you're cruising along at high speed on a flat road your CIL is high while when you're climbing a steep hill in a low gear your CIL is relatively low. When you're climbing a steep hill you slow down a lot if you don't keep pedaling pretty steadily while if you're on the flat you can vary cadence or pedal force (within reasonable limits) without much change in speed. The &quot;feedback&quot; you get from the cranks with momentum is the crank inertial load. Many riders appear to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11784546&quot;&gt;modulate their cadence in response to CIL, even at the same power&lt;/a&gt;. The last piece of information we need to address the puzzle is that in head winds, people will often gear down lower than they ordinarily would for a given gradient under calm winds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you appear to do well in climbing and in head winds but not so well on the flat, this indicates that your power production appears to be relatively high under low CIL conditions but not so high under high CIL conditions. If you've ridden much with a power meter you would likely observe that your power is higher and steadier on hillclimbs than on the flat; more than that, you would probably observe that you have difficulty holding high power on modest descents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some evidence that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15923008&quot;&gt;muscle fiber type influences freely chosen cadence&lt;/a&gt; so it may be the case that your muscle type is especially canted in one direction that favors power production under low CIL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T20:30:10.307" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T20:30:10.307" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5809" CreationDate="2011-08-31T21:11:46.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's obvious, but check to make sure your wheels spin freely. I've been on rides before where I felt like I couldn't keep up, and only later realized that my brake was rubbing the whole way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T21:11:46.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5821" CreationDate="2011-09-01T00:00:22.743" Score="11" ViewCount="5309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite changing hand positions often and switching to more &quot;cushiony&quot; gel gloves, I'm still experiencing intermittent numbness when I ride (sometimes I get tingling and sometimes not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are certain types of handlebar tape likely to help? The tape on my bike is several years old. I see gel and cork tapes (and those that claim to be both gel and cork), neither of which I have tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that I don't actually know what the real purpose of handlebar tape is (perhaps that's another question). It might be that it is only for helping you keep a grip on the bars when they get sweaty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T22:21:00.850" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T15:04:41.750" Title="Can replacing my handlebar tape help reduce finger numbness?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;grips&gt;&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-01T00:16:44.560" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4486/fixing-noisy-v-brakes&quot;&gt;Fixing noisy V brakes&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have quite an old mountain bike, that has become quite rusted over the past few years. I just tuned up the derailleurs and replaced my brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front brakes work just fine; no issues. However, the rear brakes whine/squeal very loudly whenever I use them. This happened with my old brake pads and the new ones have caused no change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to diagnose/fix the noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2277" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T00:35:10.423" Title="New brake pads, whining brakes" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-09-01T02:01:24.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5816" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-01T00:36:20.593" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T00:36:20.593" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T00:36:20.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5817" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-01T00:36:20.593" Score="0" Body="Squealing, screeching, thumping, whatever... brakes should be pretty quiet. When they're not, use this tag. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T00:36:20.593" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T00:36:20.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5814" CreationDate="2011-09-01T00:38:44.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There certainly are tapes and gloves that help decrease road shock transmitted to the hands. The traditional cinelli cork tape is a bit too hard if you're sensitive to that. Bontrager makes a nice gel tape. I use it, but honestly I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, the core issue might &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be one of sufficient padding at all. It &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be your position on the bike, bike geometry, your back muscles and ultimately how much weight you're putting on the hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly give some new tape a try. If that does not work, I'd recommend having a fitting session with a professional so you can find your optimal position and bike-geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T00:38:44.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5819" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-01T00:38:59.963" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T00:38:59.963" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T00:38:59.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5820" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-01T00:38:59.963" Score="0" Body="Depreciated, please use [brake-noise] instead, as it's more inclusive; not all bad brake noises are described as squeals. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T00:38:59.963" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T00:38:59.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5814" CreationDate="2011-09-01T01:17:53.880" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hand numbness or tingling can happen for a variety of reasons. It could be a matter of fit, or simply tape or the handlebars themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike fit:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How's your &lt;strong&gt;riding posture&lt;/strong&gt;? If you're putting too much weight on your hands, it could be because you need to raise you saddle to allow you to put some of your weight on your legs. It's also possible you just need to tilt it a litte. For example, I know that I put a little weight on my butt, even though I try to put most of it on my legs. My hands are happiest when I tilt my saddle so I'm &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; sliding forward, but not quite. The point here isn't that you should do this; everybody's bike and body are different. (Well, some people have the same bike as others.) But minute changes can have a huge effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saddle height&lt;/strong&gt; can also be a matter of trial and error. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5739/how-to-adjust-seat-saddle-and-saddle-position-for-knee-pain/5740#5740&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; gives the skinny on saddle height, although experimentation is always helpful. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1333/what-height-should-drop-handlebars-be-relative-to-my-saddle&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; talks about bar height relative to saddle height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your &lt;strong&gt;bike sized&lt;/strong&gt; correctly? If the distance from the saddle to the bars is too great (or too small), that could cause other problems (namely, making it difficult to get a good fit in the first place). You can get a rough idea of this by checking that your standover height is correct, although this is a very rough test. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bars, hands, gloves, and tape:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Angelo's &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5814/can-replacing-my-handlebar-tape-help-reduce-finger-numbness/5818#5818&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; gives a good overview of &lt;strong&gt;bar tape&lt;/strong&gt;, and cork-vs-gel tape. In addition, I've heard that gel tape tends to wear out quickly, as the gel slowly migrates away from where you rest your hands. (Gel saddles have similar problems.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is &lt;strong&gt;double-wrapping the bars&lt;/strong&gt;; some people swear by it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get &lt;strong&gt;padding&lt;/strong&gt; for your bars that you stick to the bars before wrapping. I tried it and while I personally didn't feel any difference, some people love the stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are your bars an appropriate width? A good rule of thumb is that they should be as wide as your shoulders, although this can translate into some very wide bars, particularly with stocky men. (Ahem.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, don't forget that &lt;strong&gt;padded gloves&lt;/strong&gt; can help. Sometimes, when your hands start to hurt a bit, it just means that it's time for some new gloves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In conclusion:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand pain is, unfortunately, a problem that many cyclists fight for years; others lick it immediately or never encounter it. Don't be afraid to experiment with the goal of making yourself as comfortable as you can on the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T02:45:51.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5814" CreationDate="2011-09-01T04:13:17.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, the problem is due to riding/hand position and the resulting pressure on the hands.  You don't say what kind of bar you have, but a traditional &quot;drop&quot; bar is better than a straight bar (absent extensions) for giving you different positions, and within each bar category there are many variations (though finding different bars can be a challenge at best).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike is too large for you (or the &quot;reach&quot; of the bike is too great, for any reason), then you will have more trouble.  And, oddly, the more casually you ride the less the torque of your feet on the pedals relieves hand pressure, and the more you will have trouble.  And, of course, your overall muscle strength will affect this and also how much your back helps relieve the pressure.  (I'd also add that your upper torso weight is a major factor.  There are many of us that could stand to lose a few kilos, and reduced hand pain would be one of several benefits.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tape can help to a degree.  The tape is there primarily to provide a good grip, but it also provides a modicum of padding and the thickness of the tape increases the effective diameter of the bar, spreading the weight somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, spreading the weight over a larger area causes contradictory effects.  It does reduce the maximum pressure exerted to a degree, but it also increases substantially the size of the area where pressure is preventing any blood flow.  This lack of blood flow is ultimately what causes pain and numbness over the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once had a pair of gloves that contained ribbed Sorbothane inserts, and they totally eliminated my hand pain.  The ribs meant that the areas of no blood circulation were only millimeters wide, so the cells didn't &quot;starve&quot; and pain/numbness were absent.  The gloves eventually wore out, however, and I've not found replacements.  I did experiment with adding ribs to my handlebars (using lines of silicone caulk), but although this worked well it was not very durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T04:39:57.783" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T04:39:57.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5814" CreationDate="2011-09-01T04:32:59.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem of finger numbness comes from the wrists. When your fingers get tingly, it normally helps to move your hands to a different place on the handlebars. If yours are still getting numb, try (A) reducing the weight on your hands, and (B) doing wrist stretches before AND after you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T04:32:59.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5619" CreationDate="2011-09-01T04:36:36.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just worked through this issue with a new-to-me RB-T I finally got around to building up.  Dia Compe 981's (amazingly, I had a set in my parts bin) work perfectly with 21mm Mavic A319 rims. They have a great integral quick release aspect to them.  I watched another pair on ebay go last week for about $12, I think. Enjoy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2278" LastEditorUserId="2278" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T05:10:57.433" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T05:10:57.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5833" CreationDate="2011-09-01T04:44:05.730" Score="15" ViewCount="10750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new mountain bike a year ago, with SPD pedals. I'm OK with these on a road bike (that I don't normally crash), but on a mountain bike when I crash I usually can't jump off the bike like I used to. I can handle stopping OK, but when I'm about to crash I can't jump off and land on my feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to loosen the pedal settings? Should I unclip when I'm getting to a hard part on the trail? (I have pedals that work both ways.) Or should I just practice crashing until I get it right? What do &quot;real&quot; mountain bikers do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T16:26:51.873" Title="Bailing out with SPD pedals on a mountain bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2011-09-01T09:15:52.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start loosening pedals so that you can unclip them much easily than you do now but that they don't unclip suddenly when you don't want them to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T09:15:52.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2011-09-01T11:44:33.793" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stay clipped in at all times, especially during tricky spots because that is when you need the most control and the most power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say that 'you're able to bail when you know you're going to crash', you are describing a situation that has the luxury of time to decide. You would have time to unclip too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever happens it is OK to wipe out while attached to your bike. It won't hurt you &quot;more&quot; than wiping out without it (modulo some exceedingly rare freak accidents that aren't worth trying to avoid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1260" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T16:06:51.267" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T16:06:51.267" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5831" CreationDate="2011-09-01T13:29:59.703" Score="0" ViewCount="2014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Honda Pilot and looking for the best bike rack that will allow me to hang the bike on the back of the pilot but possibly still open the door.  99.9% of the time we haul the bikes on my pickup truck - but we are going on a two week vacation in the Pilot so this one time I need to carry bikes. Does anyone currently carry bikes on a Pilot's rear hatch?  We can't put on top due to cargo container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest a good one that will still allow us to open the rear hatch?  We don't have a trailer hitch (and I am trying to keep cost down), so one that straps directly to the rear hatch would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T13:40:35.283" LastActivityDate="2017-03-12T09:45:07.213" Title="Best Bike Rack for Honda Pilot?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-03-13T20:35:09.303" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5806" CreationDate="2011-09-01T13:57:46.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of the Marmot PreCip. It's light, cheap (relatively), has pit zips which you will need for riding in warmer weather, a hood, and it packs up fairly small. Mine has been very durable as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marmot.com/products/precip_jacket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://marmot.com/products/precip_jacket&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T13:57:46.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5829" CreationDate="2011-09-01T16:18:12.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the less expensive car/van rear racks are shaped like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2RfHL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The arms with pads rest against the vehicle and then straps from the center attach to the hatch, trunk and/or bumper.  This should work if you attach the straps to the top, bottom and if included to the side of the hatch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would be able to open the hatch if the bikes are removed first, but it is likely that the hydraulic hatch struts will not keep the door open with the added weight of the rack.  If the bikes are on the rack the weight will be significant and you will likely have difficulty opening the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a rear rack at allows you to easily open the door and still keep the bikes stored I think your only real option is a hitch rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T16:18:12.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2011-09-01T16:25:49.163" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can adjust the tension on the pedal release, but you should also check your cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano has two different SPD cleat models:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SH51 - unidirectional release&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SH56 - multidirectional release&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SH56 is marked with a large 'M' on the pedal facing side of the cleat, and will allow you to click-out more easily than will the SH51.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T16:25:49.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2011-09-01T16:36:41.203" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best option is to practice a lot on how to unclip your foot, so you get accustomed to it. I suppose you have already done this. So you must now adjust the spring tension on your pedals. Refer to the instruction manual on how to adjust it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, I have found that dirt, grime and other pollution in the cleats makes it extra hard to get the foot free. It gets to your pedals every time you step on mud or soft soil and then go back to he pedal, something that does not happen so frequently for a road biker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cleat after stepping on mud or soft soil your shoe picks up little stones, little stems, leaves and all sort of things that clog up the pedal's mechanism, and the pedaling action makes all this dirt get to critical places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why I recommend to thoroughly clean the pedals and oiling them between rides. Normally you won't get too much dirt in only one ride, but you don't want it to get accumulated, for this worsens the performance of the release mechanism. Oil helps a lot for clipping in and out, but also helps a little by not allowing some dirt to stick to the mechanism (Your pedal won't be so dirty by the end of the ride).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip #2: you should periodically inspect your pedals and cleats for dents, deformations and other that can affect your ability to clip out. Specifically I've had trouble with the &quot;ramps&quot; that push the cleat out when you twist your foot. For some reason these develop a kind of hook that prevents the foot from twisting. You can easily file out these deformations, usually they are surprisingly tiny! Use a fine file or a rotary tool (dremel) with a fine grit grinding stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip #3: Part of some training I also did, was about conquering difficult technical sections without removing any foot from its pedal. I did this by  building small obstacles in the middle of an ample flat terrain. The Obstacles where made of stones and logs, trying to make then with increased difficulty every time, but always made then in such a way that if I fell it wouldn't hurt much, hence the flat clean terrain around the obstacle. This kind of training gives the rider a lot of self confidence and builds the necessary skills that make the use of cleated pedals more intuitive at the required level for MTB riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tips have kept me clipped for 10 years of mountain biking, doing XC, and a little all-mountain and downhill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final comment: IF you're accustomed to SPD on your road bike, make an effort to stay on SPD for your mountain bike, if you remove them, almost sure you'll miss them! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2011-09-17T00:03:25.837" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T00:03:25.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2011-09-01T23:12:16.137" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend used to use SPD pedals on her mountain bike, but switched to eggbeaters after a head-first meeting with what she nicknamed &quot;The Bog of Eternal Stench&quot;, and a very long, smelly, damp ride home. She's found that they're easier to get into and out of quickly, that they are less prone to getting clogged with mud, grass, and other debris, and are much more intuitive in situations on the trail that require rapid response. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2286" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T23:12:16.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5841" CreationDate="2011-09-02T03:29:26.040" Score="28" ViewCount="3966" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I know from the top answer here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/592/when-or-how-often-should-i-replace-my-bike-helmet&quot;&gt;When or how often should I replace my bike helmet?&lt;/a&gt;, that I should buy a new helmet every 2-3 years, even if it hasn't been in a crash and shows no signs of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But can someone explain to me why this is so? I'm not trying to be a cheapskate, but just want to know why the helmet would degrade just with regular wearing? Do motorcyclists replace their helmets every 2-3 years too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't tell me that this is what the helmet manufacturers recommend. Of course they will say it should be replaced even if there is no visible damage. Reminds me of the adage: &quot;Never ask a barber if you need a haircut&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate any input/insights you can give.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1022" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T04:01:20.757" Title="Do I really need to replace my helmet every 2-3 years if it hasn't been in a crash?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4285" CreationDate="2011-09-02T03:33:21.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you use a trailer, you would want to lock the trailer frame with a cable through your chainstay and seatstay. I have seen pictures of Pelican boxes bolted to to the sides of racks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set and setting (as Timothy Leary has put it) is important for transporting valuables. I've parked in the afternoons at my grocery store and found people come up to their bikes and discover their backpacks stolen...but I don't discover that situation early in the mornings. Your best protection might be avoiding times or localities that attract thieves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have friends that can accompany you on a trip, this is also an effective method of preventing theft. I have gone shopping with my family and often someone stays with the kids and watches the bikes. Or, if we're toting a trailer that doesn't lock to the bike frame, someone will wait outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other tactics, even though these can inconvenient and possibly more expensive, would be to a) load your panniers into your shopping cart to keep an eye on them, b) plan your trips so that you don't chain a enriching stop before a risky second destination, or c) have the item delivered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T03:33:21.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5836" CreationDate="2011-09-02T03:47:09.413" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/replace.htm&quot;&gt;Bicycle Safety Institute&lt;/a&gt; disagrees with the 2-3 year rule. They have a good page on replacing helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually replace one when the foam rubber gets old and crumbly, when the adjustments quit working, or when I damage it. UV can deteriorate the plastic if you leave it outside a lot. And, if you ever &quot;use&quot; a helmet, i.e., crash and save your skull with it, you should replace it because the styrofoam and outside plastic can weaken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T03:47:09.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2868" CreationDate="2011-09-02T04:10:53.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are carrying and where you are carrying it are very important in deciding what vehicle to use. If I am going on a bike camping trip where I know I don't need to deal with walking stretches (like stairs, steep hiking trails), I'm much more likely to take my Xtracycle rather than my short diamond frame bike plus trailer. If I have to negotiate areas where I will need to pick my bike up to deal with stairways, I will mix a trailer and panniers as neceesary. If I need to haul kids, I might choose the Xtra. If I need to go long distances and don't need to negotiate steep climbs, a recumbent with a trailer is a very comfortable operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer to ride a recumbent bike and don't need a trailer, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.terracycle.com/CargoMonster.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cargo Monster&lt;/a&gt; might interest you. Eugene's Human Powered Machines also makes &lt;a href=&quot;http://hpm.catoregon.org/?page_id=73&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;heavier duty hauling trikes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to consider an electric assist option as well. Clever Cycles &lt;a href=&quot;http://clevercycles.com/products/stokemonkey/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;StokeMonkey&lt;/a&gt; is an adaptation I've seen on Xtracycles before, there are other electric assist conversions out there. Lightfoot cycles also makes electric assist recumbent trikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many bicycle life-stylists have different bikes for different purposes. If you need to haul lumber, I would suggest a bike that can carry a long (8+ foot) aluminum utility trailer. If you carry lots of boxy items and want a the lowest center of gravity, you might prefer a long john like a Bullitt or &lt;a href=&quot;http://cetmacargo.com/CETMAcargoindex.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CETMA cargo bike&lt;/a&gt;. Lightfoot cycles appears to make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lightfootcycles.com/trikes.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cargo trike&lt;/a&gt; with a locker on the back, which might be appropriate if you're hauling valuables like medicines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your terrain and weather will also affect your choice. Bicycles might handle better in snow than trikes, but you might prefer a trike with studded tires if you want to carry a load on plowed, icy streets. If you are out in the wilderness where you might need to handle power snow, slush, ice and gravel, you might want to consider a Surley &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fatbikes.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pugsley&lt;/a&gt; (with 4-inch wide tires) and towing a trailer. You might invest in multiple bikes as your tasks and seasons dictate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T04:10:53.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5809" CreationDate="2011-09-02T06:36:58.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to be in the same situation, during the bike split of the triathlon races I participated in, I would pass a lot of people on the climb and could not keep up with them on the flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed my tires and gained a bit of speed, then I changed my wheels and was now able to ride at the same speed as others. (and I bought low end wheels)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out the bearing in my wheels were dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the difference in spinning between your wheels and wheels of others.&#xA;If it's not the problem then I'll go with the CIL and muscle fiber theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a nice ride&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2289" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T06:36:58.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5836" CreationDate="2011-09-02T10:10:40.343" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Snell Foundation says to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smf.org/helmetfaq#aWhyReplace&quot;&gt;replace after 5 years&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The five-year replacement recommendation is based on a consensus by&#xA;  both helmet manufacturers and the Snell Foundation. Glues, resins and&#xA;  other materials used in helmet production can affect liner materials.&#xA;  Hair oils, body fluids and cosmetics, as well as normal &quot;wear and&#xA;  tear&quot; all contribute to helmet degradation. Petroleum based products&#xA;  present in cleaners, paints, fuels and other commonly encountered&#xA;  materials may also degrade materials used in many helmets possibly&#xA;  degrading performance. Additionally, experience indicates there will&#xA;  be a noticeable improvement in the protective characteristic of&#xA;  helmets over a five-year period due to advances in materials, designs,&#xA;  production methods and the standards. Thus, the recommendation for&#xA;  five-year helmet replacement is a judgment call stemming from a&#xA;  prudent safety philosophy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T10:10:40.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5844" CreationDate="2011-09-02T11:54:33.020" Score="2" ViewCount="2344" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife brought a second hand CoPilot Limo seat for her bike which came with a Blackburn EX1 rack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ni27W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blackburn EX1 rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just tried to fit this but came accross a hopefully minor problem.  Her bike is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-in/bikes/model/revel.3/7568/46954/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Giant Revel 3&lt;/a&gt; - this has two rear dropout eyelets for the bottom part of the rack but no eyelets underneath the seat to bolt the silver rods onto.  We live in Brussels and I went to a local bike shop to see if they could help, but the guy just shrugged his shoulders and said that there was no solution other than to buy another bike seat that clips onto the metal frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been reading about using p-clips instead but just read on another website that they can slip.  I need too obviously find the safest solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2291" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-09-02T18:40:35.823" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T19:28:42.580" Title="Trying to fit a Blackburn EX1 rack to my bike" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5825" CreationDate="2011-09-02T13:05:03.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider switching to SpeedPlay pedals?  I'm told they're not as tolerant of dirt/mud, so probably not an ideal option.  However, they stay perfectly secure for all my road cycling (I use platforms for mountain biking, no clipping in for me there), unclip easily as designed, but in emergency situations I was able to pull my foot off the pedal (with the kind of force you can do during an emergency) without doing the unclip motions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T13:05:03.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5842" CreationDate="2011-09-02T14:41:49.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of a problem with P-clips. They are the standard way to mount a rack when the bike doesn't have upper rack braze-ons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how the P-clips can slip. The rack you're using is solid, not hinged, so if you only mounted it to the fender eyelets, it could only rotate forward/backward around that point. As soon as you locate it with P-clips as well, there's nowhere for it to slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be possible for the nuts and bolts you use to affix the P-clips to come loose. You can use nuts with nylock inserts, or just retighten them as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T14:41:49.073" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5842" CreationDate="2011-09-02T17:48:16.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;[Oops -- never mind.  On re-reading I see you're trying to mount a seat, not the rack.  I'm not quite envisioning how the seat interferes with the rack.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(More or less what I said before:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The straps do not carry much weight (though more with a child seat, I guess) and only need to be anchored well enough that they won't pull loose -- the bottom eyelets carry 95% of the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The straps can be bent as required (within reason) to fit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can be anchored to the seat post clamp or to another clamp fitted around the seat post.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a central brake bolt on the bike, they can be anchored to that somehow (though a slightly different rack works better because a single strap can be mounted in the center).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P-clamps on the seat stays would also work, I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-09-02T19:28:42.580" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T19:28:42.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5848" CreationDate="2011-09-02T18:54:54.283" Score="8" ViewCount="5861" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the specific shoes: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merrell.com/US/en-US/Product.mvc.aspx/22876M/0/Mens/Barefoot-True-Glove?dimensions=0&quot;&gt;http://www.merrell.com/US/en-US/Product.mvc.aspx/22876M/0/Mens/Barefoot-True-Glove?dimensions=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going on a 210 mile bike trip this weekend and am looking for a new pair of shoes. Would these be appropriate for touring? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2295" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-02T19:22:39.657" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T00:30:45.960" Title="Are Merrell Barefoot shoes suitable for bike touring?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5846" CreationDate="2011-09-02T20:01:07.003" Score="9" Body="&lt;h3&gt;No!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Treat yourself to some basic Shimano SPD shoes. Consider getting the pedals too. A popular entry model shoe is the M087 model, shown here with a basic SPD pedal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9RUw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shimano shoes are reasonably wide, the sizes are as per your trainer size, available in EU size increments. The M087 has a ratchet mechanism for doing them up, you can adjust this whilst you ride (which you cannot do with lace up shoes).&#xA;Note that most Shimano shoes did not require any vegans to be killed for their manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have already worked out what is wrong with the Merrell product: sole not suited to cycling as it will bend. The sole will also get 'eaten' by the back of the pedal leading to the shoe not lasting very long. By contrast, the Shimano SPD shoe will last two years even if worn 18 hours a day with lots of walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visit your local bike shop if you are pressed for time and see what they have got. You will be able to get the right size that way, particularly if you go in the afternoon when your feet have padded out a bit from you being on them all day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many shops carry the basic Shimano MT42 models with laces in a selection of sizes: these are very good and better suited to toeclips/straps than the velcro enclosure you get on the M087. Rarer but worth looking out for are the MT66 Shimano sandals. They are cycle-tourist-friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shop carry the affordable Specialized shoes then do consider them as well - they are with the prerequisite stiff sole and 'lace-lock' to keep laces out the chainset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not find your size in your preferred shoe, do ask the shop about ordering 'special order', they can get them in for you quite quickly although when did 'this weekend' begin??? Maybe you might need to phone around a few stores or limit your choice to what there is in your shoes size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you end up forking out more money than you would have done on the Merrell sneaker, don't worry, you will forget about the outlay once you have put a few miles into the shoes. With the stiff sole you will be able to go at least 10% quicker/further, such is the efficiency saving of having stiff soled cycling shoes. That efficiency is still there if you don't get the SPD pedals, which you may want to look into after your tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to see what has been recommended on this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3906/spd-shoes-that-look-like-normal-shoes&quot;&gt;SPD shoes that look like normal shoes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T20:01:07.003" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5846" CreationDate="2011-09-02T20:02:14.180" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a pair of these shoes, and while they are good for &quot;barefoot&quot; style running. I wouldn't want to bike with them except in an emergency. They are very flexible, with a thin sole that you can feel everything through. As such, I would say that they are definitely not fit for touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2294" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-13T13:19:37.987" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T13:19:37.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5846" CreationDate="2011-09-02T20:34:59.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I am in many respects the anti-clipless guy around here, I do recognize that a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of people love clipless shoes. While this question is not about clipless pedals or cleats, the stiff sole of a bike shoe &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5846/are-merrell-barefoot-shoes-suitable-for-bike-touring/5848#5848&quot;&gt;exactly what you want&lt;/a&gt; when cycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they're not for everybody; I dislike the idea of having to bring extra shoes along on a tour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often cycle in short work boots for the above reasons. Even some hiking shoes have fairly stiff soles and I will wear those on tour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question directly, I suspect that barefoot shoes are unsuitable for any sort of long ride. This is in the same way that canvas sneakers would be uncomfortable: The sole is too flexible. Stiff soles are more comfortable when riding, and specifically help me avoid toe numbness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I will grudgingly admit that clipless shoes might do an even better job at that correcting last problem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="39426" LastEditDate="2019-08-01T00:30:45.960" LastActivityDate="2019-08-01T00:30:45.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5851" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-02T23:01:30.317" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-09-02T23:01:30.317" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T23:01:30.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5852" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-02T23:01:30.317" Score="0" Body="How to get the right sized bicycle for you or adjust your bicycle to fit you better." OwnerUserId="1114" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-09-03T06:02:52.813" LastActivityDate="2011-09-03T06:02:52.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5854" CreationDate="2011-09-03T02:59:15.577" Score="11" ViewCount="20690" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5825/bailing-out-with-spd-pedals-on-a-mountain-bike/5832#5832&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; mentions that Shimano makes two kinds of SPD cleats, one that allows unidirectional release (SH51) and one multidirectional (SH56).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other differences between the two? Will both types work with all SPD-compatible pedals? Are there reasons to prefer unidirectional release over multidirectional release?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-09-03T12:07:58.157" Title="Do both SH51 and SH56 cleats work with all SPD-compatible pedals?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5853" CreationDate="2011-09-03T12:07:58.157" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, all SPD pedals are compatible with both of these cleats. The multi-directional release SH-56 will allow you to pull out of the pedal vertically if it is required. They are designed for spin bikes. (Exercise use.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is a preference only, because it depends what you intend to use them for. I will not use the SH-56 on the road because I have pulled out of the pedal during normal riding, and offroad has similar issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-09-03T12:07:58.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6009" CreationDate="2011-09-03T23:05:17.313" Score="4" ViewCount="10552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got an Electra Townie 8i bike and the gears are acting weird.  I hear clicking noises when pedaling and sometimes it slips down to a lower gear.  This is especially true for 4th gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a known issue for these internal gear systems?  How can I fix it?  Is this something an amateur can repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2308" LastEditorUserId="2308" LastEditDate="2011-09-08T14:36:12.780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T01:54:22.250" Title="Slipping gears on new Electra Townie 8i" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5855" CreationDate="2011-09-04T00:02:04.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like the shifting chain might be at the wrong tension. Look at the rear hub and you'll see a shifting chain that leads into the hub on the drivetrain side of the bike. If the Nexus 8 is anything like the Nexus 3 (which I have on my Trek cruiser), there'll be an adjuster barrel you can turn by hand to tighten or loosen the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the nicer features of the Nexus hub is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://shimanoshifters.blog.com/shimano-nexus-sl-3s35-3-speed-revo-shifter-includes-bell-crank/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;indicator window&lt;/a&gt;; you should see a yellow indicator in there, and two lines on the window to line it up. You may need to fine-tune this a touch by riding it down the block and back until it shifts perfectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In the event yours has no such indicator, try loosening or tightening the cable; the correct tension on the cable will allow you to use all the hub gears.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Was over at my friend's house today, he has a Jamis with an 8-speed Nexus hub. The indicator window is smaller than on my cruiser's 3-speed hub, but it's there. The window is right up against the spokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-05T19:22:23.127" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T19:22:23.127" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5864" CreationDate="2011-09-04T06:02:56.530" Score="3" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a question related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4141/dismounting-wheel-in-a-fixie&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1865/is-it-possible-to-put-a-chain-on-without-removing-the-rear-wheel&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; -- I've got a IGH bike and want to keep the drivetrain clean.  I prefer to remove the chain for regular maintenance, but don't want to have to remove the rear wheel from the vertical dropouts to get this done.  I put a SRAM Power Link in, but even with about 0.5-inches of vertical play in the chain, there's not enough slack to &quot;unbuckle&quot; it (no chain tensioner present, either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On non-derailer bikes, is it best to use a chain tool every time, dial in enough chain slack to use a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/product_hero/images/products/accessories/sram_acc_powerlink_9sp_gld_lrg_0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;buckle style&lt;/a&gt;&quot; link (SRAM Power Link / Wipperman Connex / KMC Missing Link), or use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://kmcchain.us/connectortype/316-masterlink/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;retaining clip type&lt;/a&gt; of link (KMC Master Link)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2304" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T00:29:20.423" Title="What kind of master link is most convenient for IGH / fixie / ss setups?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5857" CreationDate="2011-09-04T06:27:52.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain path of an IGH or a fixie/singlespeed bike is really quite simple, and in the end, whether to use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/4483#4483&quot;&gt;masterlink&lt;/a&gt; or a one-piece chain really comes down to personal preference. Which is most convenient depends on your skills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that it's best to use a chain with a masterlink, simply because of the ease of removing the chain for cleaning. Using a chain tool takes me a bit longer than unclipping a masterlink. If you slip up and push the pin out of the chain, it can be very difficult if not impossible to replace it back into the link. (If you can even find the missing pin!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume when you're talking about dialing in slack, you mean moving the rear wheel forward in the dropout? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I had a masterlink break was, ironically enough, when a mechanic did the work for me. (Perhaps that was due to a bad masterlink. That mechanic in question was otherwise very, very good at his job.) Since then, I've learned that simply double-checking the link by putting pressure on the link is sufficient to test it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bike where it's difficult to readjust the rear wheel (and therefore the tension on the shifting chain into the rear hub), I might say it makes more sense to use a masterlink. However, releasing (or installing) a masterlink with the chain under tension is quite difficult without a lot of practice. Practiced wrenchers can do this, but I don't quite have the knack. With an easier-to-adjust hub (like the Nexus 3), I might worry about this less and use a one-piece chain if I didn't have a spare masterlink handy when swapping out a chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T07:41:24.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5862" CreationDate="2011-09-04T17:36:46.067" Score="2" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;This brake was installed on a fixed-gear that did not come with any brakes.  &lt;strong&gt;The nut on one side rubs against the fork, and over time it rotates and presses the pad against the wheel.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is where it is rubbing:&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3tt8u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close up of problem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The workaround is to unscrew the break and re-center it, but it wiggles its way back and I'd rather a more permanent solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that occurs to me is to put a washer on the bolt between the brake and the fork, but the bolt is just barely long enough to screw into the nut.  Could I get a washer and a longer nut to handle this?  Would that fix the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other idea I had was to file down the nut in the photo so it doesn't contact the fork, but that just feels like a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit]&#xA;As requested, here's a shot that shows the whole brake: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Czxry.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;whole brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2284" LastEditorUserId="2284" LastEditDate="2011-09-04T20:17:45.850" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T21:16:16.337" Title="Brake piece grinding against fork" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5859" CreationDate="2011-09-04T19:01:33.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your caliper should stay reasonably well-centered. Are you certain that all the nuts and washers are in place to allow you to adjust the position of the brake with a thin brake wrench and then tighten the the other two nuts to keep everything in place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, a track fork really isn't designed for a brake. Yes, there is a hole in there for that but it is more of an afterthought than a critical design feature. One can't expect any caliper to fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider the following in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Double check all hardware is in place and adjusted properly so it doesn't pivot over time. You might or might not be able to find a &lt;a href=&quot;http://loosescrews.com/index.cgi?c=Brake&amp;amp;sc=Recessed%20Nuts&amp;amp;id=400806727132&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;longer recessed nut&lt;/a&gt; to go into your fork hole and thus allow a spacer washer to position the caliper a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; bit further from the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace caliper with something that will fit. It looks from the picture that you're using a dual-pivot brake? Sidepulls are a little smaller and might not interfere with the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace your track fork with a road fork that can take the brake you need it to take.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not file down the interfering nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T19:01:33.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5859" CreationDate="2011-09-04T19:15:51.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Typically there will be a serrated washer between the brake arms and the fork to prevent the brake mech from rotating. I can't tell if you've got one installed, but if you don't, you should. It's hard to tell from the picture you've posted, but I think there should be more separation between the brake arms and the fork, regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Front brakes and rear brakes are different in that the mounting screw is much shorter on rear brakes, and so is the recessed nut. Is it possible you're mounting a rear brake in front? That would account for the limited stack-height capacity you've got on that brake.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T19:15:51.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5859" CreationDate="2011-09-04T21:16:16.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;@Adam Rice is almost there, diagram and suggestion included for what to do now...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you need a curved 18mm diameter washer between the brake and the fork. Your brake is a Shimano clone, here is how the original Shimano drive works out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q2DlL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is no serrated washer between the curved washer and the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, you need a 27mm long pivot nut on the back. If your existing nut is 18mm then that is a front nut too, but not suited for your fork. If the nut is 12.5mm or shorter then it is for the back brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What now?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visit your local bike shop on a quieter day of the week and ask for help from the workshop with your predicament. Either get the bike booked in (and expect to pay their minimum workshop time booking slot) or buy the 18mm washer + 27mm nut and do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All bike shops have a drawer full of such parts, they may charge ~50p per nut/bolt/washer which is not representative of the cost of the bit or their time to find it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are buying something else, e.g. treat yourself to a new track pump, then they may be more helpful and do you the washer/nut out of good will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T21:16:16.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5865" CreationDate="2011-09-04T21:32:14.217" Score="3" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a new Electra Townie 8i and notice that the chain appears clean and silvery.  Is it supposed to be lubricated and if so, what is recommended lubrication?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2308" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-04T22:04:56.990" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T22:05:38.743" Title="What kind of lubrication is used on Electra Townie 8i chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5857" CreationDate="2011-09-04T21:52:35.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano use a connecting pin for their 1/8&quot; Nexus chains, for which you need a chain tool. As Neil notes, there is room for error popping these in and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have discovered, the SRAM powerlink does not result in a practical solution - you cannot flex the chain enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the tried and tested 'buckle style' link is the desired solution. I have not known of these to fail, you can also obtain a chain with one even if you are in the back of beyond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T21:52:35.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5863" CreationDate="2011-09-04T22:05:38.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain is a KMC Rustbuster - it has a special coating on the plates and waterproof grease inside the 'bushing-less' bits. You don't have to do anything to it until the rust-proof coating wears off from the inside of the plates. Therefore, don't do anything to the chain - applying 'WD40' style lubes will only displace the grease by emulsifying it. Wait until this time next year and, if the chain appears 'orange rust coloured' after a ride in the rain, pop some medium flavour oil on it, sparingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe Electra should have some words in the instruction manual as they have included a rather special chain that you are lucky to own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T22:05:38.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5867" CreationDate="2011-09-05T00:40:44.290" Score="6" ViewCount="2311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm selling the rear derailleur off this bike, and someone asked whether it's short or long cage. I assume it's long. Is this correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2s3Ne.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zHWKa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastEditorUserId="1717" LastEditDate="2011-09-06T03:31:26.423" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T06:00:30.883" Title="is this derailleur short cage or long cage?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5866" CreationDate="2011-09-05T01:17:18.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the pictures shown at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Search?q=rear%20derailleur&amp;amp;qSrc=def&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jenson USA&lt;/a&gt;, it appears to be a short cage, or perhaps a medium.  Although the picture you posted doesn't give a very good view of the derailleur. Take a look at the pictures in that link to judge for yourself.  Based on the information behind that link, it says that short cages are usually used for road bikes with a double crankset, while larger cages are used for triple cranksets or mountain bikes with a larger range of gears.  Since the pictures shows a road bike with a double crank set, I would again think that it is a short cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T06:00:30.883" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T06:00:30.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5866" CreationDate="2011-09-05T02:23:05.027" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo derailleurs come in three lengths, short, medium and large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine the size measure it. The centre to centre distance between the sprockets is 55, 72.5 and 89 mm and my guess is that you have a medium flavour rear derailleur...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much are you selling it for, b.t.w.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-09-05T04:08:11.387" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T04:08:11.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5870" CreationDate="2011-09-05T04:29:20.323" Score="4" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a bike rack to put on my bike so that I can hookup the baby seat with the bike. However, I don't see anywhere on my bike where I can mount the front bracket arms of the rack to it (please see pic.1). There is place to mount the lower arms, though (as shown in pic.2). Pic.3 shows the whole bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know which bike rack can go with this bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/26766263@N08/6114633097/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;pic1 by photohunger, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm7.static.flickr.com/6181/6114633097_a327fcfb86.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;333&quot; alt=&quot;pic1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/26766263@N08/6115177672/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;pic2 by photohunger, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm7.static.flickr.com/6082/6115177672_4856da2365.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;333&quot; alt=&quot;pic2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/26766263@N08/6114633271/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;pic3 by photohunger, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm7.static.flickr.com/6061/6114633271_a140bc6470.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;333&quot; alt=&quot;pic3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2315" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.967" LastActivityDate="2018-07-16T09:22:50.620" Title="What kind of bike rack can go with this bike?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5869" CreationDate="2011-09-05T04:41:43.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike looks like it comes equipped with a full-suspension frame, and the suspension mechanism is located where one would usually attach the rack stays. This will make attaching a rear rack extremely difficult, and almost certainly less secure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend attaching a rear rack to this bike, particularly not one that will be holding a child seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, you could look into a child trailer. (For more information on child seats compared to child trailers, have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5136/toddler-bike-seat-vs-bike-trailer/5150#5150&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.) Please note that pulling a trailer with any full-suspension bike can cause problems (see the comments). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T13:57:21.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-05T05:30:31.273" Score="3" ViewCount="1691" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife just bought me a used Electra Townie with aluminum frame and wheels. The previous owner claimed it had been serviced in the past year. Checking the bearings, I can tell it was a poor job of lubrication, probably done by the seller using who knows what for lube. What lube(s) are proper for the various bearings, etc on this bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2316" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-05T18:26:39.613" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T17:01:21.567" Title="Maintenance lube for Aluminum Electra Townie" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5871" CreationDate="2011-09-05T09:17:11.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not want to go into brand recommendations, but any general bike grease should be fine. I have good experience with Motorex Bike Grease 2000 (here goes brand recommendations), but really, this is not rocket science and you cannot do anything really wrong.  Just clean it, put enough grease there and you are good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the grease used before was too old and had started degrading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="961" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T17:01:21.567" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T17:01:21.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5871" CreationDate="2011-09-05T11:59:15.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cup and cone bearings on a bicycle need 'preload' for them to work properly under load. This is because the balls are tiny spheres of metal that deform under your weight. Hence the bearings must be tightened up slightly beyond feeling smooth when unloaded. Due to quality of parts, i.e. not perfect, a pre-loaded bearing feels 'rough' and requires effort to spin it. There are proper ways of applying the correct pre-load, e.g. with the use of a torque meter, however, 'feel' is a good way to do it. To understand that 'feel', go into a bike shop and try to turn the spindles on the new wheels that are for sale. With rare exceptions all of them will feel rough - this is preload. Now see how your own spindles/axles feel when you turn them without load, chances are that they feel pretty much the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have rough bearings then you might think the grease is missing. Chances are that it is just the preload and not a grease problem at all. If you are going to dive in there anyway, do get a handle on the preload concept. As for your question on grease, a little grease goes a long way and you don't want it contaminated. The white lithium grease in a tube from your local bike shop will do fine. Yes you can buy posh coloured 'marine' grease but preload is what matters most with bearing setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T11:59:15.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5869" CreationDate="2011-09-05T12:12:38.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a rack that attaches at the brake bolt.  Of course, the rack would get some extra jouncing from the suspension.  That appears to be a fairly small wheel, though, so you'd need a rack designed for small wheels (so the front rack strap to the brake bolt wouldn't be excessively long).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best bet is to find a shop that carries a variety of racks and try them on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, anything you find is apt to be less than ideal to support a child seat.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T12:12:38.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5871" CreationDate="2011-09-05T12:19:55.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any standard bike bearing grease will be fine.  There are several premium brands such as Phil Wood, but whatever the LBS has on their rack should be as good in 99% of the cases.  More important is removing any traces of dirt, which generally means washing the bearing pieces in solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated, properly tightened bearings will feel ever so slightly &quot;gritty&quot; when you turn the axle by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T12:19:55.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2011-09-05T12:48:21.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://app.strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava.com&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mapmyride.com&lt;/a&gt; are particularly nice for finding routes. They also categorize the climbs (from #5 to Hors) as documentation for bragging rights. Both have smartphone apps. Mapmyride has a slightly better UI (IMO), but strava has more users/rides (at least in the areas I am interested in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One interesting thing you can do on strava for giggles is to check out what the pros do on their rides: &lt;a href=&quot;http://app.strava.com/rides/1487304&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Like this&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikely used to be the best, but they have problems with uptime and lag (the server is in GB).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2011-09-05T12:53:41.713" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T12:53:41.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-05T13:09:17.463" Score="0" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a technology guy and I would like to ask you cyclists, what are the missing accessories with your bike that you want us to do for you? In a project at school, I am asked to use the following sensors: gyroscope, accelerometer, microphone, barometer, magnetometer, compass or the various devices: cameras, geo-location, RFID, wireless transmission, ultra low power devices to make a useful accessory for you guys bikers. Can you guys tell us what are the obligatory accessories you need for your bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2317" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T13:44:35.903" Title="What are the missing accessories for you cyclists?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-09-05T13:53:33.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5882" CreationDate="2011-09-05T13:11:01.813" Score="7" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a pannier bag which attaches to the rear rack with 3 quick-releases. Each quick-release has a sticker on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CIdxnl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;strange hammer warning symbol&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this symbol mean? My guess would be something like &quot;don't hit this with a hammer&quot;, but it seems rather unlikely that anyone would, so I'm really not sure what I'm being warned about.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="628" LastEditDate="2011-09-05T14:17:06.070" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T16:01:28.813" Title="What does this warning symbol on my pannier bag mean?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5877" CreationDate="2011-09-05T13:44:35.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;H. P. - welcome to bikes.se and thanks for asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One feature I have not seen on bike computers or iphone apps is a simple tool that tells you how much money you have saved through cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To drive a mile takes a certain amount of petrol/diesel and that depends on many factors. These factors can be approximated in a multitude of ways, so you can start off with a simple miles to the gallon factor then extend the model to take into account the start/stops, the speed, the weather (A.C. in summer), car engine size and so on. Some algorithm optimisations will not be that big a deal, others will be important to accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The car data is also important. As well as efficiency there is also the depreciation, insurance and other costs. You could have ballpark figures for 'large saloon', 'small hatch', 'fullsize SUV' and so on. Also there is the difference in saving depending on whether or not the car is given up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel prices change by the day and by region. Applying accurate prices to the data is another factor that can be approximated or accurately modelled. For instance, if we were to have another war or gulf hurricane then prices could go off the chart, so you can either model 'today's prices' or make the data tied into the price by date. Clearly this data needs to come from somewhere, either it is manually keyed in or else it gets it 'from the cloud' somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally the app just needs to know what car you drive or what car you sold. After that it should be able to work out the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To what ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have this data used by employers wishing to remunerate employees for cycling to work, you could also have parents that 'run a taxi service' make pocket money dependent on whether the kids cycle to school or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a spin off you could also measure Kg of CO2 saved by cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the challenge of the above appeals to you then you could make an iphone/android app to do the above and sell it on the app marketplace, hopefully to make your efforts financially worth your investment in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T13:44:35.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5878" CreationDate="2011-09-05T14:16:46.763" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means &quot;No tools&quot; or &quot;Use your hands.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T14:16:46.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5888" CreationDate="2011-09-05T14:22:14.330" Score="26" ViewCount="37463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am seriously considering getting a recumbent trike, probably one in a tadpole configuration, and was weighting up how much time I would save during my commute when compared to my normal bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I ride &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/cypress/7354/44064/&quot;&gt;Giant Cypress&lt;/a&gt; and my speed averages about 22kmh on my commute. My commute is about 16kms, one way, and is over a mixture of forest trails and asphalt bike paths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also thinking about using the recumbent bike over the winter months as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1657" LastEditorUserId="1657" LastEditDate="2011-09-06T07:03:56.950" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T11:21:10.493" Title="Is a recumbent trike faster than a non-recumbent bicycle?" Tags="&lt;tricycle&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="23" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5887" CreationDate="2011-09-05T15:33:14.440" Score="15" ViewCount="9093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if they're all like this, but my u-lock is a bit loose between the two pieces, the U and the bar. The provided mount snaps very very tightly onto the U, leaving the bar to fend for itself, so when I ride, any little bump makes the lock rattle. I believe the main source of the noise is the loose (non-locking) interface between U and bar; it's metal-on-metal there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty obnoxious (and I feel like anyone I pass by must think my bike is broken), so if I have a bag I toss the lock in there instead. Sometimes that's not an option though, so I'd really love to stop the rattle while it's in the mount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001ASR7CU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;one of these&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DCeiG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;kryptonite series 2 u-lock&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that the little rubber rings are supposed to push up against the bar, and keep things held in place, but mine is loose enough that the right side wiggles around plenty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2017-07-28T19:46:03.923" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T21:51:47.360" Title="Silencing a rattling u-lock" Tags="&lt;noise&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5884" CreationDate="2011-09-05T15:57:16.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a piece of normal inner tube surrounding the U part of my U-lock and that does the trick. It is a bit longer than the actual plastic coated part of the 'U' and bunches up when I close the lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carry the lock on my bike rack or on my rucksack shoulder strap (it has a slot in it), depending on what bike I am on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your lock bracket clamping to the 'U' I am not sure if you will be able to get the inner tube approach to work, however, I thought I might share that idea with you to help you improvise a solution of your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T15:57:16.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2011-09-05T17:54:10.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike speed is primarily limited by wind resistance, and a major factor for wind resistance is &quot;frontal area&quot;.  I would guess that most trikes have more frontal area than your standard upright bike, so it's unlikely that you'd see a speed improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But maybe someone else can point to some actual test data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T17:54:10.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5884" CreationDate="2011-09-05T18:00:44.857" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything that will &quot;bunch up&quot; as Mathew suggests should work.  You can slip a piece of tubing over the end of the U, or some O rings, or wrap with electrical tape.  The object is not to have material actually go into the hole where the U fits, but to &quot;bunch up&quot; at the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you could probably run a bungie from the loose piece to some frame member to keep it in tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T18:00:44.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2011-09-05T20:34:17.330" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;All other things being equal (which admittedly, they never are), a recumbent trike will be slower. It has more frontal area, more rolling resistance, and more weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a recumbent bike, but I do have a conventional racing bike and a recumbent trike (a very low-slung tadpole, not a delta). On a frequently-ridden 37-mile loop, my average speed on my racing bike is about 15.5 mph, average on the trike is 14.3 mph. So at the speeds and distances you're riding, the net time difference won't be that great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, the trike is a lot of fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T20:34:17.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5898" CreationDate="2011-09-06T03:48:46.013" Score="6" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was on vacation at Mesa Verde Nat park this year, I met a nice couple bicycling cross country from California, they were riding reasonably loaded &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/big_dummy_complete/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Surly Big Dummy's&lt;/a&gt;. They were surprised at the calories burned and the cost of food on the road to keep up energy levels. They said they could do 35 miles on a very good day, averaged 20, mind you they were in South West Colorado headed to central Colorado, lots of steep climbs. They set up camp every night and cooked what they had at the time, basically living on the road toting all the gear on the back of the bikes, guitar and all, awesome guitar player by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvvMw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brought to mind an interesting question, is it more expensive to feed yourself per mile cross country than it is to buy gasoline on a per mile basis, I know this is quite subjective and may not be easily answered due to the fact that different vehicles use fuel at different rates and gasoline and food costs are different in other countries. So lets set some reasonable parameters. Food energy cost vs gasoline costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;USA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;22 mpg car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasonably loaded Big Dummy's (all the gear, and a few comforts you need to make camp cross country) They had high quality lightweight camping equipment from what I could tell. Max cargo capacity including rider is 400lbs on the Big Dummy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LA California to Denver, scenic routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food costs: are higher due to inconvenient places to shop and limited carrying capacity and food spoilage issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever done a study on this subject or kept track on a long bike trip cross country?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastEditorUserId="1717" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T03:53:32.210" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T06:13:38.290" Title="Food costs compared to Gasoline riding cross country USA" Tags="&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5893" CreationDate="2011-09-06T08:35:05.550" Score="9" ViewCount="21361" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Saturday's ascent race I was riding 181bpm HR&lt;sub&gt;AVG&lt;/sub&gt; and saved some power for the last km where my HR peaked at 190 (which is my highest ever recorded HR at my 37 years or age). I felt rather normal at the top, no fatigue or extreme oxygen deficiency. Just normal very deep breathing with high frequency for about 20 seconds and I was fine. the way I usually breathe on the &lt;em&gt;doing it 100%&lt;/em&gt; races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://connect.garmin.com/activity/112037608&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This is the data&lt;/a&gt; from my Garmin of this ascent race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I should point out that my calculated HR&lt;sub&gt;MAX&lt;/sub&gt; is about 182bpm although in reality it's clearly 190 (as the upper data shows). I suspect it's even higher, but anyway. I was obviously pedalling at 95-100% HR for about 50 minutes. That's surprising to me. This to me may be a good indicator that my HR&lt;sub&gt;MAX&lt;/sub&gt; is closer to 200bpm rather than 190 which would mean I was peddaling at 90% HR&lt;sub&gt;MAX&lt;/sub&gt; most of the time. &lt;strong&gt;Can anyone confirm this reasoning?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I've heard some of the others were riding well below 170 bpm HR&lt;sub&gt;AVG&lt;/sub&gt; but had much better time than me. I suppose this is due to larger heart volume, larger lungs therefore much better oxygen efficiency. Since my heart rate increases quite rapidly I suspect my heart volume is rather small(ish) so it has to speed up faster to deliver the needed O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I wonder how can I improve my performance&lt;/strong&gt;? What kind of training will lower my heart rate while keeping the same performance level. I suppose lowering my HR by 10 bpms would give me enough room to improve my performance by more than 10%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1268" LastEditorUserId="1268" LastEditDate="2011-09-06T21:08:39.760" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T13:42:58.490" Title="How to significantly lower HR[avg] while improving performance output" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5889" CreationDate="2011-09-06T10:50:36.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the South West there are lots of amazing places to stay over in National Parks such as Mesa Verde and cool towns such as Telluride in Colorado. Whether you are travelling by RV or bicycle you want to be able to join the dots between these places and not miss any of them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To achieve this by RV you only need 2-4 hours of driving time, whereas by bicycle you want to be putting in 6-10 hours of cycling time. Whether you are driving or cycling you want to be eating three times a day, maybe with extra snacks in between. By bicycle that means lots of carbohydrate, simply prepared with any cooking done quickly on a single heat source camping stove with nothing refrigerated. By RV that means what you would normally eat, leisurely cooked on a decent sized cooker with ingredients kept in a normal fridge. The cost of food is therefore a lot lower when cycling even if the calorie intake is a lot higher. Hence the 'fuel' comes for 'free' when cycling as you are spending less on food than you would do if travelling by RV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really it is an exercise in time management. Everyone does their own thing, however, I personally would not be happy putting in 20-35 miles a day. You can cover that distance before your first stop for refreshments if you put your mind to it, even if crossing the continental divide. For me a more realistic pace is to put in fifty miles before lunch, another fifty before 6 p.m. and then up to another fifty thereafter to get you to where you need to be camping out. Clearly if there is a lot to see and do that day the mileage required can come down, to half of that, e.g. to put in seventy to a hundred miles. Also, putting in the 'maximum range' of 150 or so is not realistically achievable day in, day out, but may be necessary, e.g. if heading out from Grand Canyon up to Four Corners and on to Mesa Verde where you don't want to be camping rough in very hot desert. Same in Colorado, there are parts where there are not that many National Park camp-grounds or other 'sensible' places to stay over. (When cycling it is best to have an aversion to motel stayovers as you cannot cook the same, television leads to staying up late, you are isolated from meeting nice people such as yourself and they cost money.) Really you want your rest days to be in places that are really worth the extra day, e.g. Mesa Verde where you can leave the tent set up and go on a guided tour and take in a ranger's talk in the evening. Those rest days need to be coincided with the days when you having nothing in the tank and can barely physically move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, in the RV, you have pre-booked camp destinations to get to (on the bike there is rarely this requirement to book in advance). Therefore time management is not a question of 'going as far as you can'. The cyclist will be able to de-camp in less than an hour, hitting the road shortly after the morning midges have died down. Meanwhile, the RV traveller will be putting a full breakfast on, to then wash up, get the garden furniture in, faff-tidy up and make the road a lot later in the morning. They will then get to the next 'dot' on the tourist trail some time shortly after lunch, to get the best spot available in the campground. Then the garden chairs and everything else needed for camp will be set out, a proper dinner put on and so forth. This will be quite leisurely. When they are ready to settle in for a bit of light television watching for the evening the cyclist might still be some miles away from the campground with not that much daylight left. However, the cyclist will be able to pitch a tent, put some food on, eat it and get washed in less than an hour. (No garden chairs to put out.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really is tortoise and hare, with the 'cycling tortoise' actually seeing more of the sights along the way - the splendour of the South West is best observed at cycling speeds, with no car parks required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the RV driver were to push on and do the most miles possible (cyclist style) then they would be able to do LA to Denver in a matter of a few days rather than the weeks needed to do it by bike. However, in reality, you go in a RV to see the sights and they are spaced a cycle-ride apart. Although the RV driver may be quicker joining the dots between these locations, they are far more likely to have 'rest days' (not pushing on every day) and putting out garden chairs instead of pushing SPD pedals. The RV traveller's food costs are likely to be significantly higher than those of the cyclist and then there is gas/petrol/diesel on top. This is for the case of putting in 50-150 miles a day by bike, I don't think the cost analysis is the same if only going for 20-35 miles per day as you are not really 'joining the dots' at that speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T10:50:36.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5890" CreationDate="2011-09-06T11:23:04.440" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, understand that HR drops as you age, even if you stay in good physical shape.  Older riders will tend to have a lower HR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, HR drops as you become better conditioned to high-output activity.  Basically, as you suggest, the capacity of the heart and circulatory system increases so that sufficient oxygenated blood can be delivered to the muscles at a lower HR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as one trains, the muscles develop more anaerobic capacity, so they need less oxygen, and they develop more glycogen storage capacity, so they need less blood sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others probably have more specific suggestions based on research, but basically to train the circulatory system (and muscles) you keep repeating the conditions where you want it to perform.  Some accommodation occurs within a few days (mainly in the form of hormone levels and blood volume), while full accommodation probably takes 6 months or so of every-other-day full-out rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T11:23:04.440" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5889" CreationDate="2011-09-06T11:47:27.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were going cross-country I'd figure 60-80 miles/day, except in the mountains (which I probably can no longer manage), and many riders would figure 80-100.  Generally you ride 5-6 days/week.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meals can be cheap or expensive.  If you carry expensive camping food then that's probably $15/meal.  If you carry pasta then you can get by on $2 per meal, I'd guess.  Meals at restaurants can vary a lot, of course, but mostly you'd stop at diners or fast food places where you could get out for $10 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you also need a good supply of munchies, and that would be another $10/day for me.  So I'd figure maybe $30/day if I were trying to be frugal, $40 if not.  Others could no doubt get by on $20 or spend $100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$40 for 80 miles is $0.50/mile, and the frugal guy could get it down to maybe half that.  Gas for my 25mpg buggy would be about $0.15 per mile.  (Of course, this isn't counting food eaten on down days.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, we're not computing how much we pay for the energy expended, vs what we'd normally use to feed our faces.  You burn maybe 800 calories/hour cycling at touring speeds.  Figure 6 hours/day or 4800 calories.  That's roughly 4 Big Mac Value Meals at $5 apiece.  So in BMVM terms you'd be spending about $20/day, which is roughly $0.25/mile.  You could of course eat more frugally and probably get it down to the $0.15 auto figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T11:47:27.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-06T12:44:08.503" Score="3" ViewCount="755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking into Rotor Q Ring system that supposedly increases power by 4% which is rather significant especially when climbing. It should shave off quite some time off your resulting time due to this info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I can't seem to find any detailed research done by comparing classic round cranks against Rotor's Q Rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anybody knows where to look?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1268" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T16:18:46.033" Title="Are there research graphs for the Rotor Q Ring system?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5895" CreationDate="2011-09-06T12:54:57.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbike.com/nueva/pdf/review_PROCYCLING.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This review&lt;/a&gt; from Procycling has some graphs comparing oval and standard rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yWlr8.png&quot; alt=&quot;graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T12:54:57.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5895" CreationDate="2011-09-06T12:58:17.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The science link on the Rotor website has a fairly thorough group of tests through various Spanish and Italian Universities and hospitals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/increase_speed_senkirol.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/increase_speed_senkirol.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/qring_test_new_univ_valladolid.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/qring_test_new_univ_valladolid.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/qring_test_summary.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/qring_test_summary.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/knee_health_rs4x_new_univ_zaragoza.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/knee_health_rs4x_new_univ_zaragoza.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/wattage_increase_rs4x_new_univ_ferrara.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/wattage_increase_rs4x_new_univ_ferrara.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/metabolic_improvements_rs4x_univ_valladolid.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/images/science/pdf/metabolic_improvements_rs4x_univ_valladolid.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was there something further you were looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T12:58:17.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5889" CreationDate="2011-09-06T13:22:04.353" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode the Southern Tier last year and used a GPS app on my phone that estimated caloric output. Probably not very accurately, but it gives us a number to kick around. My distance was right around 3000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total estimated calories burned over the ride was 143,000. That would be equivalent to 265 Big Macs (540 cals per Big Mac). Not that I ate any Big Macs, but it's a handy yardstick. A Big Mac costs about $4. So that would be $1056 in &quot;fuel&quot; if that's all you ate. I'm assuming that you would burn about the same number of calories whether you rode a relatively small number of high-mileage days or a large number of low-mileage days (I think that technically this is wrong because in the latter case you've got more off-bike time during which you're also burning calories).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, a gallon of gas costs about $4 right now too, depending on where you are. If you're in a car and getting 22 mpg over the same distance, and filling up with $4/gal gas, you'll spend $545.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I did keep track of my food costs at the time, I no longer have that data handy. I was not cooking a lot of my own food—mostly eating out. So my food costs were higher than they had to be. On the other hand, you could not get away with just pasta--you'd need a lot more protein and fat to keep going over the long haul. As it is, I lost about 15 lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T13:22:04.353" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5895" CreationDate="2011-09-06T16:18:46.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. If you want to know about independent research, a good place to start looking is PubMed. If you do, you'll find this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21266731&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The influence of elliptical chainrings on 10 km cycling time trial performance&lt;/a&gt;, which is a comparison of Rotor Q rings at two different orientations (100 and 110 deg) against round conventional cranks. The riders were &quot;blinded&quot; to the cranks (the cranks were housed in a guard or shroud so the riders couldn't see which ones they were using). The experimental design was randomly counterbalanced. The result was that no statistically significant difference was detected in power or RPE (rating of perceived exertion) between the Q rings and the round ring. Heart rate was higher to a statistically significant degree with the Q rings. The &quot;4%&quot; improvement in power was not observed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, if you are testing round vs. eccentric chainrings, you must account for the difference in cadence &lt;em&gt;within&lt;/em&gt; the pedal stroke for eccentric rings. This means, for example, that you should either test power differences with a Power Tap or on a rear wheel driven ergometer -- crank-based power meters assume that cadence is constant within each pedal stroke so they can simplify power calculations. If crank angular velocity &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; vary within the stroke (and high force corresponds with the lower velocity) the estimated power will be biased high. The degree of bias will depend, of course, on the individual rider's exact mix of angular velocity and force application but 3% bias is not unexpected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T16:18:46.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5889" CreationDate="2011-09-06T16:34:12.353" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to approach this problem is with simple physics. Compare a 180lb cyclist on a 40lb loaded touring bike averaging 15mph for 100mi/day and a car averaging 22mg for 100mi/day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strike&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mne.psu.edu/lamancusa/ProdDiss/Bicycle/bikecalc1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;power calculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt; (broken link, see below) I use estimates 130W of power necessary for the cyclist to maintain a 15mph pace. At 15mph, the trip would take 6.66 hours. Multiplying the two together gives us an energy requirement of around 900 Watt-hours. This is equivalent to 775 kilocalories of energy output. The human body is roughly &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_energy#Energy_usage_in_the_human_body&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;20% efficient&lt;/a&gt; at converting calories in to calories out, so this gives us a rough estimate of 4,000 kilocalories expended above your basal metabolic rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, then, we run into a problem. How much does a calorie cost? A blog I follow frequently has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mymoneyblog.com/what-does-200-calories-cost-the-economics-of-obesity.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;breakdown of cost per calorie&lt;/a&gt; for a large variety of foods. When on the bike, a whole lot of your calories are going to come from the cheaper side of that table: peanut butter, sugar, bread, and other plentiful sources of carbohydrates. Your meals are going to come from the more expensive end. A weighted average of $1.00/200kcal seems reasonable to me, assuming a lot of the needed calories will come from bread, sugar, and pasta. Finally we reach our estimate of $20 for 100mi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We now will estimate the cost of driving that 100mi. 22mpg for 100mi is a simple 4.5gal, which at $4.00/gal is $18.18. However, there are other costs to driving besides gasoline. From &lt;strike&gt;Commute Solutions&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://cruz511.org/drive/true-cost-of-driving/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cruz511 Traveler Information service&lt;/a&gt;, I'll estimate fixed costs at 11.9¢/mi, depreciation at 27.9¢/mi, maintenance at 5.3¢/mi, and accidents at 10.9¢/mi. Obviously, though, these costs will vary greatly depending on your particular make and model of vehicle. With these extra costs adding up to 56¢/mi, we have to add $56 in extra expenses for the car ride. This gives us a final cost of around $75 to complete the trip by car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, these numbers are highly sensitive to the initial assumptions: average cycling speed, fitness level, make and model of car, type of food eaten during and after cycling, and so on. With that in mind, I believe the takeaway from this should be that touring by bike and car are surprisingly &lt;em&gt;close&lt;/em&gt; in terms of transportation costs (being well within an order of magnitude). The decision to cycle or drive should be made based upon other factors: will you enjoy the experience of cycling cross-country more, or is having several extra hours at your destination worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original power calculator link has broken. Here are two others: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecalculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bikecalculator.com/&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T06:13:38.290" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T06:13:38.290" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2011-09-06T17:54:08.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a car driver I recommend flashing LEDs front and rear, and also reflective strips around the ankles; both of these really catch my attention early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO NOT ASSUME the car driver can see you just because you can easily see the car. At night or dusk cyclists and pedestrians are often invisible, and in our lower position we can be blinded by other cars' lights or even street lights and those bright security lights. Also remember that some drivers fail to properly clear their windows of ice and windows seem to have a habit of steaming up at the wrong moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2332" LastEditorUserId="961" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T18:30:19.243" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T18:30:19.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2294" CreationDate="2011-09-06T18:25:45.463" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No data points, but I would agree that in most cases the flashing light is better.  A single, constant-burning light can easily get buried in &quot;noise&quot;, and there's even a tendency for motorists to unconsciously follow a constantly-burning moving light ahead (especially if drunk), a fact that I suspect figured into a couple of nighttime rear-end collisions I've learned of over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To improve the ability of the motorist to judge the location and speed of the light it's better if it flashes relatively rapidly -- maybe 2-3 times per second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re legality, 169.222 subdivision 6 of the Minnesota statutes states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A bicycle may be equipped with a rear lamp that emits a red flashing&#xA;  signal.&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revisor.leg.state.mn.us/statutes/?id=169.222&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.revisor.leg.state.mn.us/statutes/?id=169.222&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T20:36:26.060" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T20:36:26.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="236" CreationDate="2011-09-06T18:26:21.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After working as a Courier in Toronto for a few years (and some other cities), I have found that the best lock (in my experience) has been something of good heft and quality from Master Lock &amp;amp; a length of thick chain from the hardware long enough to wrap around your waist while ridding. (they make some nice steal &amp;amp; brass ones with combinations insted of keys if your not to keen on a key with the jonas of being pretty corrosion/oxidation resistant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its long enough to wrap around your waist like a belt, its usually long enough to loop around your frame, wheel set, and something sturdy to anchor on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike won't be going anywhere &amp;amp; it will only set you back about $15   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2220" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T18:26:21.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5908" CreationDate="2011-09-06T18:30:44.413" Score="5" ViewCount="7023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll preface this by saying that I've been a mountain biker for over a decade, including XC racing for a couple years.  I've never had a hard time adjusting the saddle angle (tilt forward or back) on my mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I just got my first road bike, and I can't seem to get the angle to feel right. The seatpost is an Icon Graphite series (single bolt adjustment, but has notches as you angle the seat fore and aft). Saddle is a Selle San Marco (Trek 'postal service' design).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that at one seat angle, it feels fine when I have my hands on top of the bars (on brake handles), but when I'm in the drops, its not so comfortable on my &quot;soft bits&quot;, and I find myself lifting myself slightly off the seat with my legs as I ride to keep the pressure off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if I tip the seat 1 notch forward, then I feel more comfortable in the drops, but when more upright on top of the bars or on the brake handles, then my butt slides forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess this just has to do with the change in body angle from being on top of the bars to being in the drops, and wanting the seat to be at a different angle for each position.  Since on my mountain bikes, you don't really change your whole body's angle that much, I've never had this problem before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I though maybe switching to a 2-bolt style post might help because I could try to get it adjusted into a &quot;sweet spot&quot; basically at an angle between 2 notches on this Icon post, but the Icon post is also set back slightly, whereas a 2-bolt adjustable design puts the seat directly over the tube, so the seat would be slightly more forward then to begin with...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T06:39:38.753" Title="Adjusting saddle angle on a road bike (drop bars)" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5890" CreationDate="2011-09-06T18:34:16.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling is an aerobic sport and for any sustained effort you are limited by oxygen delivery and conversion. Meanwhile, heart rate is just a measurement of how fast your heart is beating -- the other missing component of oxygen delivery is &quot;stroke volume&quot;; and then you still have to get from the delivery system to power production. Stroke volume is determined in part by the size of your heart's ventricles as well as the &quot;ejection fraction&quot; (specifically for aerobic production of power, the left ventricle and left ventricle ejection fraction). Decreasing your heart rate, in and of itself, will not allow you to produce more power. Cycling training will tend both to increase stroke volume and to increase the mitochondria you use to produce power aerobically. At 67kg and 1.73m, climbing 2600 ft in 8.5 miles in 55+ minutes means you were probably producing in the ballpark of 3.0 - 3.25 watts/kg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to improve your time is to improve your power, not to decrease your heart rate. Indeed, it doesn't make much sense to compare your HR to that of others since there is a great deal of variation across individuals in their power:HR ratio. Two riders with the same HR can produce very different power output; two riders with the same power output might have very different HR. For hillclimbs, the ratio you want to focus on is watts/kg of body weight. Since it appears your BMI (at 22+) is relatively low, you'll want to improve the numerator. (For flat races, aerodynamic resistance is the greatest source of drag so the ratio you want to improve is watts/(sq. meters of drag area)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T13:42:58.490" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T13:42:58.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5906" CreationDate="2011-09-06T18:41:36.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have a fair amount of fore/aft adjustment on the seat rails without changing seatposts, unless you're already at the limit. I might try sliding the seat forward a little before giving up on that seatpost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T18:41:36.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5814" CreationDate="2011-09-06T18:42:18.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other excellent answers, you should also determine &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; you get pain or numbness in your hands. Typically your riding position is leading to excessive pressure on the Ulnar and/or Median nerves. See the diagrams here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hughston.com/hha/a_15_3_2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hughston.com/hha/a_15_3_2.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By identifying which nerve you are likely irritating, you can better determine a solution to the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own personal experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a lot of numbness on the outside (pinky-finger side) pad of my palm, and found that getting some gloves that were extra padded over the Unlar nerve helped me tremendously when riding on flat bars with bar ends (I was letting that outside of my palm rest against the bare metal clamp of the bar ends, and not even thinking about it). I had previously used Garneau brand 'gel' gloves that had padding over the whole lower palm toward the wrist, but it wasn't really helping. I ended up going to a local bike shop and trying on every pair of gloves, and putting pressure on the Ulnar nerve to see which dampened the effect the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T18:42:18.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2355" CreationDate="2011-09-06T18:50:02.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry no idea what the el wire looks like. As a driver the best features especially in town are flashing LEDs front and rear, reflective ankle bands (these work from any angle) and relflectors attached to the bike wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have never driven, do remember that just because you can see the car &lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt; mean the car driver can see you. Car drivers are often blinded by other vehicles lights and even some poorly positioned or shielded security lights. Also winter causes windows to steam up and if poorly cleared or grease smeared even street lights can cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I cycled regularly in my youth I could reach 25mph on the flat. Car drivers only expect cyclists to travel marginally above walking pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally the only time I was forced off the road was in broad daylight on a straight road wearing everything possible to make me visible. Fortunately I was alert, otherwise I might have been injured. I didn't get the offending driver's number or I would have reported him.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2332" LastEditorUserId="2209" LastEditDate="2011-09-06T20:00:31.483" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T20:00:31.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3744" CreationDate="2011-09-06T19:48:11.687" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Britain all vehicles are required by Law to be MOT'd (an annual safety check cost £35-£50) Taxed (a variable amount dependant emissions average car £130) and Insured (after maximum discounts for no claims £300 or more) and to drive a car a full licence is required which is much harder to pass than when Itook it over 30 years ago.&#xA; Cyclist pay none of this and are being provided in major towns with bike lanes or the right to use bus-lanes. In London (not an easy place to drive) there is a presumption that a driver is to blame for any accident involving a cyclist. With heavy congestion any cyclist can easily average a higher speed than a car and yet they DO NOT obey the rules of the road and are very unlikely to be stopped by the Police even when they ride through red lights.&#xA; Needless to say the average car and van driver tend to consider cyclists as vermin.(Exageration).. &#xA;The problem cyclists really started when supermarkets started selling bikes and they started to be viewed as toys.This was when BMX and Mountain Bikes became popular and car ownership increased.&#xA; In my opinion Cyclists need to be seen as responsible citizens The easiest way being to act in a considerate and law abiding way..Then car drivers will start to realise that every cyclist is one less idiot car driver in the way and welcome changes to the road layout that encorage more cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2332" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T19:48:11.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-06T20:05:58.940" Score="10" ViewCount="5648" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my quest for getting as much information as I can before configuring my recumbent trike, I was thinking if my legs would be get more tired as they are in a horizontal position? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an upright bike, my legs would be &quot;resting&quot; on the pedals as they are on top of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the recumbent trike, my legs would be in a horizontal position and my thighs would have to keep them up as well as providing the power to do the pedalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are my assumptions correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1657" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T20:38:30.960" Title="Do your legs get tired faster when riding a recumbent trike compared to a upright bike?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;tricycle&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2011-09-06T20:14:18.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No idea if it works but I do remember advice given to salesmen driving sign written vehicles to drive courtesly the point being hammered home by the tale of a sale lost (very high value) when the potential customer realised that the idiot who had cut him up and given him the finger on his way into work was the salesman sitting in front of him he placed the order elsewhere and explained why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2332" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T20:14:18.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-06T21:08:45.537" Score="19" ViewCount="31368" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name of the part, often seen on BMX bicycles, that allows an additional rider on the back the bike? It appears to be a set of relatively short but thick poles that go on either side of the axle of the rear wheel so a passenger can stand on it and—holding onto the shoulders of the driver—can be transported with minimal effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is that part called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2335" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T18:50:52.770" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T02:26:05.643" Title="What is the name of the part, often seen on BMX bicycles, that allows an additional rider on the back the bike?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2011-09-06T21:15:59.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Warming and freezing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just reading an article about bottle cleaning and although hot water is very good at preventing microbes from thriving, &lt;strong&gt;freezing your empty bottles is also effective&lt;/strong&gt;. Home appliance freezers freeze them slowly which kills microbes as compared to lab microbe freezing which is done very fast just hibernates them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other positive side of freezing your bottles is also that they're very cold so they don't warm your cold drinks up for that fraction of degree when filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1268" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T21:15:59.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-06T21:24:50.713" Score="4" ViewCount="1299" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question was prompted out of a short discussion from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5883/is-a-recumbent-trike-faster-than-a-non-recumbent-bicycle&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; when it was proposed that a upright conventional bicycle is more comfortable than a recumbent trike when riding over forest trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasoning is that on a upright conventional bicycle, you would just stand up and let your legs be the suspension when going over the bumps. Obviously, this is not possible with a recumbent trike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So which one is more comfortable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1657" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T18:28:08.183" Title="Are upright conventional bicycle more comfortable than a recumbent trike over forest trails?" Tags="&lt;tricycle&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-06-10T01:41:54.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5914" CreationDate="2011-09-06T21:36:06.257" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are called &lt;strong&gt;Pegs.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pegs are mainly used by BMX riders to help perform various tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flatland trick (standing with all of his weight on one peg, not damaging anything):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HjVO3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grinding a wall on the rear peg (imagine the forces when the rider jumps on the wall, still: no damage to the hub but of course to the peg and the wall):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f0g3H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bmx_santa_monica_beach.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikimedia&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Feeble-Ledge-Grind.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Commons&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1858" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T12:32:58.777" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5912" CreationDate="2011-09-06T21:44:28.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really. I would not ride a recumbent for much distance without my feet being clipped in. The obvious way to do this would be with cleats, but there are also special pedal design for recumbents that includes a sling that runs under the heel. Nice thing about a trike is that you never need to clip out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's the bigger issue that it takes a while to get your &quot;recumbent legs&quot;—you use your leg muscles differently on a 'bent—so in that sense, yes, your legs would get tired faster, until they adapted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T21:44:28.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2011-09-06T22:11:13.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have concerns about dirt on mouthpiece, you can get something like this. The cap flips open and you can easily use your teeth to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use something similar to this (not exact) and this is just an image from google to show the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W6phn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1714" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T22:11:13.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5693" CreationDate="2011-09-06T22:13:47.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use resealable (like Ziplock) bags around things that a) I want dry and b) want containment if they break. So I tend to wrap my wallet in a resealable bag, and fold the opening end over a few times and wrap a rubber band around it to keep it tidy. If I take a bottle of juice or a container of soup to work with me, I wrap it in a resealable bag in case the it breaks on accident (bike falls over, etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to group items in bags to reduce clutter anyhow. So, if I have a bottle of sunscreen or ketchup, if it gets squished, I'm also well protected against having to scrub out the inside of my bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because your bags are waterproof, doesn't mean the place you open them isn't blowing rain in, either. I've had my bike tip into a puddle with my panniers open and that's just a sad wet mess, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T22:13:47.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5912" CreationDate="2011-09-06T22:17:37.967" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a pro rider and have never used clips on any bike.  Even on your upright bike you train your legs and feet to stay where they're supposed to... if they just relaxed they'd fall off the pedals no matter which bike you're on.  I've been riding my recumbent for almost 3 years now and have little interest in riding anything else, though it did take a week or two to get the &quot;new muscle groups&quot; factored in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your legs get used to the new position, as Adam mentions, I doubt you'll get any more fatigue or whatever than you did previously.  I find it &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; fatiguing for my legs since it takes less effort to go the same distance or speed on the 'bent (less wind resistance etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst thing I had to get used to was the lack of ability to &quot;stand up on the pedals&quot; for quick jack-rabbit starts or climbing hills.  That took a bit of getting used to, including getting very intimate with my derailleur shifting.  The first few times you stop without gearing down for the next takeoff teach you quickly to avoid stopping without downshifting at all costs.  Climbing hills, you just go through the gears more instead of standing up and pumping to get &quot;over the top&quot;.  I'm not a fast rider by any means but I find I can keep up with and occasionally pass upright riders who pass me on straight and level but run out of steam as they climb hills closely in front of me.  I haven't ridden for extremely long distances (I normally drive the first part of my 32 mile commute and park the car and ride the last 7 miles to and from work) but I have ridden the entire 32 miles several times without problems of any sort keeping the feet on the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When coasting down long hills (I cannot keep up with the pedals over ~26 MPH) I have no trouble keeping the legs and feet in proper position as I rip down the hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastEditorUserId="1922" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T18:21:03.823" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T18:21:03.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5906" CreationDate="2011-09-07T00:05:32.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to experiment with a number of different saddles to find one that was comfortable. I was experiencing similar issues to what you're describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution for me was to get a saddle with the middle 'carved out'. Something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sellesanmarco.it/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=aspide+arrowhead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Selle San Marco Aspide Arrowhead&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carved out section meant that when I'm down on the drops the carved out section didn't put pressure on my sensitive bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jLitg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Selle San Marco Aspide Arrowhead&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T06:39:38.753" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T06:39:38.753" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4954" CreationDate="2011-09-07T04:09:53.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've suffered from carpal tunnel due to keyboarding so bicycle ergonomics interests me. Finding a comfortable balance between an forward and an upright posture would depend on what task you're trying to achieve. I have 5-inch risers on my extracycle, but a 2-inch drop on my road bike sporting butterfly bars. From what I've read, basically your core strength and not your shoulders should be keeping you upright. Choose a sweep and grips on your handlebar that keep your arms reasonably straight, comfortable and neutral. If you're leaning on your wrists for hundreds of miles, you might be damaging yourself. On my risers, I choose ergonomic grips that I tilt to support the edge of my palm, and my brake levers are oriented to keep my knuckles oriented in a straight line to my wrist and elbow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to flat or riser bars that might provide some variety in posture are butterfly (aka touring) bars (like a figure eight). These can be fitted with flat-bar equipment or drop bar equipment (depending on what brakes you have, if you have V-brakes, that means you want cyclocross style long pull drop bar brakes).  I ride a Trek 7200 with integrated brake-shifters from the original 1&quot;-riser bars mounted near the back of the bars. I use the back of the bars to get a more upright posture, and the front of the bars for an aero posture. I can tell I need to adjust the brake lever angle on the butterfly bars, I'm flexing my wrists too far forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1846142628&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;It's all about the bike&lt;/a&gt;&quot; by Robert Penn, the author is coached to set handlebar height to what angle he can hold his fingers lightly on for a time without leaning on the bars. Leaning on the bars could lead to shoulder, elbow and wrist strain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having ridden almost only flat bars or butterfly bars, I am becoming more open to the notion of drop bars. I believe that &quot;Dirt Drops&quot; are wider and shallower, intended for less areo and more steering leverage as appropriate for cyclocross. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a page &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycle-touring-guide.com/bicycle-handlebars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;showing butterfly bars&lt;/a&gt;. Livestrong has a few good paragraphs &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/424047-wrist-pain-mountain-bike-handlebars/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on handlebar fit&lt;/a&gt;. Also, I find lots of discussion on handlebar sizing on bikeforums.net as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T04:09:53.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5693" CreationDate="2011-09-07T04:24:55.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;REI and other outdoor stores sell Sea to Summit lightweight dry sacks. They're similar to the rubberized dry bags used in kayaking and diving, but they're made of light weight nylon. They come in several sizes. They're a little more reliable than zip-locks and trash bags, which can mysteriously acquire holes and tears. There are probably other brands too, but keep in mind that ordinary stuff sacks are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T04:24:55.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5916" CreationDate="2011-09-07T06:07:30.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Comfortable is very subjective. I hate to use a car metaphor, but someone in a trike might find it more like steering a station wagon than a bike when it comes to tight turning. So in one concern, you're replaced an uncomfortable upright posture with a possibly stressful steering style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would search for recumbent videos and see how many you can find that show riders sliding sideways and flipping. Three wheels is more stable for an object at rest, but what a trike lacks that a bicycle relies on is the inherent meta stability provided by counter steering. Consider on a bicycle, your front wheel is constantly steering, even if subtly. This gives it remarkable &quot;technical&quot; navigation skill, which MTB riders must rely on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length of your wheel base also has an effect. A tadpole trike, with longer wheel base, might make pitch sway over bumps less pronounced. However, you get more roll swap left and right than on an upright, because you have two wheels on the side that are hitting roots at different times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trikes have different clearances for obstacles than bicycles. The tadpole recumbent trikes that I'm picturing only have about three inches of clearance under the seat. This is often due to smaller wheels and a road riding design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diameter of the wheels affects bounce and shake as well. A 29er will ride a trail more smoothly than a 20 inch kids bike for obvious reasons. If you are looking for comfort, you want a trike with large wheels. This also has an effect on pedaling style - recumbents want a faster cadence to make up for a lack of standing-weight pedaling power. If you are going uphill over roots, you might feel like you are pedaling a lot faster and possibly going slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like riding my Rans Tailwind, it is comfortable, but I notice it's a lot jouncier on gravel paths because it's got 20 inch wheels. I don't get neck strain, but I really don't like hitting roots or potholes with it. If I'm on an upright bike navigating roots, I tend to be looking down and not out at the horizon anyhow, so I don't feel neck discomfort in those situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comfort is subjective. Your setting and riding style has a lot to do with what equipment you want to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;(As per Mac's point) In my experience, which excludes recumbent trikes but includes small wheel recumbent bikes, you are very unlikely to pitch forward if you hit a bump or root badly, so a recumbent orientation is much safer in that respect. The frame sag is noticeable to me, when I strike a root or pothole on my Rans, I notice that I slow down, possibly slide forward in my seat a bit, and my whole body jounces up and down. That also tends to make my steering wobble because I hold onto my (over the seat) handlebars tighter. I presume on a trike, you would feel a roll as one of the outter wheels hit a bump, possibly turning your vehicle towards the direction of the bump as the opposite side was now travelling faster, you might want to practice &quot;steering out&quot; of strikes. If you are riding a delta, you would want to be cautious of forward flipping when striking one rear wheel on a downhill, I suspect, you couldn't lean back to compensate. A one wheel strike on a tadpole could be compensated better by leaning forward towards the strike. (Please tell me to hush if I'm putting my foot in my mouth.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it more comfortable? It sounds to me like it could be but takes different steering techniques. I guess it depends on how much suspension you have for each wheel on your trike, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastEditorUserId="1944" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T17:40:14.500" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T17:40:14.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5936" CreationDate="2011-09-07T08:41:24.867" Score="6" ViewCount="9604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of buying new bike &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; year, most probably combo for exercise &amp;amp; commuting in summer. Since terrain is relatively hilly here and both fixed city-bike and casual combo with 3x7 gears making me too much tired, I thought of buying as additional item NuVinci Mondo hub. Reviews are mostly positive but I'd like to read real pro and contra, not paid-by-manufacturer-or-reseller review. Do I win anything real for that price? Or is this just money waste? What are maintenance costs and issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1939" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T19:42:48.007" Title="practical pro and contra for Nuvinci CVT especially for hilly terrain" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5928" CreationDate="2011-09-07T08:58:22.173" Score="19" ViewCount="6025" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a comment to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/592/when-or-how-often-should-i-replace-my-bike-helmet/1527#1527&quot;&gt;an answer about helmet replacement&lt;/a&gt; mention was made of a mirror and perhaps suggesting that a helmet was merely a good place to mount a mirror. I, hopefully humorously, suggested that a mirror user might not have much inside to need protection of a helmet ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone who does a lot of miles and most of them in town, where seeing behind you is useful, I've never even considered a mirror. My preconception is that any mirror small enough to not be obtrusive or distracting would not be large enough to provide a decent view behind and, besides, I can look over my shoulder periodically and get a decent grasp for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what am I not seeing; why should I use a mirror? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T11:20:58.973" Title="Why should I use a mirror?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;mirrors&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2011-09-07T10:02:33.417" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should use a rearview mirror because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It allows you to look behind you by moving just your eyes. This will help you not accidentally swerving into the traffic coming up behind you you're trying to get a look at.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can (almost) look behind you and in front of you at the same time because it just takes a small eye movement rather than a huge head movement to go from looking ahead to looking behind and back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It actually shows you a useful part of the road behind you despite the small size (try it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All the other reasons I don't know about for which they are mandatory on motorized vehicles in (almost?) all countries all over the world.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buyandfun.com/product_info.php?language=en&amp;amp;currency=USD&amp;amp;products_id=4934&quot;&gt;cost less than a good pair of socks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't use a rearview mirror because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll look like a dork, same as with a helmet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're an experienced bicyclist and you know enough to stay out of danger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It'll add extra drag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It'll add extra weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They cost more than a cup of coffee.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They'll screw with the sleek lines of you fixed gear machine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought one after a few days of cycling in new zealand. Narrow roads, wide cattle and log trucks with sleepy drivers, some near misses, and constant warnings to be very afraid of drunk drivers made it an obvious choice. Especially because of the swerving point above, which seems aggravated when riding a bike with 20kg of luggage strapped to it uphill. I've used it on all my cycling holidays since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, I don't use a rearview mirror in city traffic in my hometown either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T10:02:33.417" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5931" CreationDate="2011-09-07T12:11:38.683" Score="1" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I13wJyUZL_4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I13wJyUZL_4&lt;/a&gt; has a man limp to a bike (a Pinarello) leaning against a wall, climb on to it and ride the bike for a good minute to a minute and a half, while remaining stationary. My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the simulator like device called? It looks like a bike treadmill, but what is it called?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How does the bike remain stationary on that device for all speeds? I would imagine that the bike would be stationary for only higher speeds, but that does not seem to be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What are these devices used for? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight on the above is most welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2041" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T14:39:06.617" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T14:39:06.617" Title="What is this simulator like device called?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;&lt;stationary-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2011-09-07T12:22:57.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Who doesn't take at least a passing interest in beautiful members of the opposite or even the same sex? We all do to varying degrees. Theoretically a mirror could help out with such window shopping, it could also help out getting one's hair and make-up right, much like those vanity mirrors they have in car sun-shields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-09-08T02:37:30.647" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T02:37:30.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5929" CreationDate="2011-09-07T12:33:49.767" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rollers. You have three drums, two at the back, one at the front and the front roller is powered by one of the back rollers. You can also get add ons to give you a breeze:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t49ew.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Balance is what is needed to stay on the rollers, also a wall (as per featured video) comes in handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rollers are used for training purposes although they can also be used for demonstrations at trade shows etc. When riding rollers instead of an exercise bike you do need to balance as well as push the pedals, you can therefore improve your riding, not just your strength/endurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T12:33:49.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5276" CreationDate="2011-09-07T13:40:04.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to a) clean the handle bar well with isopropyl alcohol, then b) spray Windex (or whatever glass cleaner) into the grip to let it slip on to the bar. Then let it sit for a while, and the glass cleaner will evaporate, and leave a nice secure grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To later remove a grip, I usually slide a flathead screwdriver under the grip a little bit (trying not to puncture the grip, or scratch the bar), and spray Windex into the gap, then remove the screwdriver, and do the same in 2 or 3 other spots around the grip. Then with that liquid under it, it should be easy to make it twist and work it off the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastEditorUserId="2334" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T13:45:07.250" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T13:45:07.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2011-09-07T14:07:38.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mirror is not necessary if you're capable of swiveling your head to look around without changing the line-of-travel of the bike. This is a skill that can be learned with a modicum of experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with using a mirror is that it is one more piece of equipment to carry and fuss with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T14:07:38.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5926" CreationDate="2011-09-07T14:27:50.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you talking about adding a NuVinci to a conventional derailleur-geared setup? That won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The NuVinci itself is very heavy, expensive, less efficient than derailleur gears, and doesn't offer as wide a range of gears as a wide-spaced derailleur-geared setup. The only advantages that I can think of is that you've got one shift lever instead of two (not a big selling point IMO), and you've got continuous variability so you don't need to hunt for the right ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T14:27:50.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5929" CreationDate="2011-09-07T14:30:39.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_rollers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rollers&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are excellent for improving form and efficiency. It takes a while to get used to them because as matthew indicated, you really need to actively balance yourself or else you'll tip over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, rollers improve pedaling technique because they force you to be more even in the stroke. If your stroke is not smooth, you'll have a MUCH harder time staying balanced on the rollers. It is a way of learning through &quot;negative reinforcement&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the road, roller work-outs translate to being more stable and wasting less energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are also excellent for warm-ups. Some racers prefer rollers over resistance trainers to warm-up at race sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T14:30:39.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5926" CreationDate="2011-09-07T14:37:47.943" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The NuVinci system is fantastic in principle and one day all bikes might come with it, but we aren't there yet. As the system stands there are a few matters that might not make it the answer to your prayers of an easier time going up hills:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For hilly terrain you need gears - it goes without saying. The steeper the hills the bigger range of gears - going up you may need a 'granny gear' and going down the hill you need a big gear (unless you don't like speed and coast).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is the potential problem area with your intended application. The NuVinci hub has a range of 350% - exactly what that relates to depends on your spocket/chainring choice. Meanwhile, with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_gearing#Gearing_range&quot;&gt;a Rohlhoff or basic derailleur setup you are going to get a range of around 530%&lt;/a&gt;. Touring bikes and XC-MTB's usually come with an even greater range, however, do you use the 'granny ring'?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Note that early adopters of the NuVinci hub seem to be primarily in Denmark and the Netherlands, where the terrain is flatter than the North Sea. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is also the small matter of efficiency. With a derailleur gear setup you can get an amazing 98% efficiency when on the middle ring and middle sprocket, marginally less for other 'sensible' gear combinations, even if you have not 'lubed' in a while. (The problem with studies on this is that they also include 'silly' gear combinations such as small sprocket and small chainring where the hideous chainline makes for an inefficient system, giving a wider efficiency range than is realistic). No hub gear system can improve on derailleur efficiency levels and the NuVinci FAQ side-steps giving any useful figures, preferring to make comparisons with existing hub gear systems, for which 92% is roughly ball-park. Personally I could contend with that on rides through town where gears are for getting up to speed but not for sustained hill climbing where 5% loss would mean 5% slower.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weight is another area where the derailleur rules supreme. At the moment the NuVinci hub is relatively heavy - I think the latest systems are 1.5Kg heavier than an average derailleur setup. In my opinion weight really does matter on hills in a way that it does not if riding on the flat. I frequently pick up 2 litres of milk at the bottom of the hill where I live and it does make an appreciable, albeit not show-stopping difference to how I attack the hill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Variable range gears. Personally I have no problem shifting gears on a 9 speed sprocket, thanks to the wonders of 'Hyperglide'. I also find that there are enough of them and I have no need for gears in between the gears that I have. For me an infinite amount of gears sounds good, but in practice I think the 'need' is over-hyped. I don't find myself changing up/down to find myself spinning furiously or plunging away completely out of sensible cadence. However, I can see how the NuVinci would help those that don't change gears that cleanly, i.e. not anticipating the need for the middle ring at the base of a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Maintenance. Not a lot is needed for the NuVinci system because it is a hub gear. If you are running bullet proof tyres you won't even need to get the wheel out for punctures. However, if you did have a problem and needed to take it to the shop then they would be stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To conclude, you will have extra weight, lower efficiency and a reduced range of gears. Despite the benefits of CVT with smoother shifting, reduced maintenance and not having to match your cadence to available gears, you are not going to get round the fundamentals of weight/efficiency/range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is that you try an electric assist bike such as one of the models made by Giant. Although they weigh a lot they are amazingly nimble and you can pedal as much as you want to on one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T14:37:47.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2011-09-07T15:10:31.167" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a mirror (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleaware.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;products_id=1&quot;&gt;a CycleAware Reflex&lt;/a&gt;) because, as others have said, it allows me to see what's coming behind me. Where I ride, the &quot;bike lanes&quot; are little more than poorly maintained pavement on the side of the road. So when it is safe, i.e., no traffic, I ride to the right in the roadway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried bar-end mirrors and glasses-mounted mirrors, but I didn't like either one. It did take some trial and error to get the mirror correctly oriented on my helmet, but now I get a good view of the road behind me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gotten fairly used to glancing back to see what's coming, so there are never any surprises. In fact, the other day in the grocery store I caught myself trying to look in my mirror to see if there were any carts behind me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided long ago:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't trust drivers, particularly the ones here in California.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding alone, not it a group, makes me harder for drivers to see.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helmets are basically disposable, so I don't mine gluing a mirror to mine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't care about looking like a dork. I do that frequently enough in my regular life that time I spend on a bike is a drop in the bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T15:10:31.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2011-09-07T15:14:35.717" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;An argument against the use of mirrors is that when you turn your head to look behind you prior to moving across a lane of traffic for example, any drivers behind you will see your head turn and get some indication you're going to do something; whereas with a mirror, the drivers behind you don't see you checking the traffic and assume you're riding straight. A recent talk I attended about cycling safety stressed the importance of giving clear signals to other road users and the 'turning head to see behind' was one of those signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2279" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T15:14:35.717" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3744" CreationDate="2011-09-07T15:25:19.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they should not be allowed to run red lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many fatalities in London are caused by cyclists being squeezed between railings and large vehicles that are turning left where the cyclist tried to get in front of the vehicle which was at a red light, and as the light turned green the driver couldn't see the cyclist as the cyclist was in the driver's blind sopt. Allowing cyclists to go through red lights would increase the occurrence of this as they would be more likely to try and squeeze past vehicles to then go through the red light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is really needed, as Unsliced mentioned, is better designed road intersections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2279" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T15:25:19.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3744" CreationDate="2011-09-07T15:49:25.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether or not it is &quot;legal&quot;, the fact is cyclists DO run red-lights. There are solid pragmatic reasons for doing this in certain circumstances and there are situations for which this is NOT a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that laws traffic laws have trouble handling nuance, so not all jurisdictions can hope to get away with specific laws/exceptions to accommodate cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is OK for the laws to not be changed even though it means that on rare occasions a cop who is feeling persnickety might decide to enforce the &quot;letter of the law&quot; on a cyclist who proceeds through a red-light at a clear intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T15:49:25.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5946" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:02:24.833" Score="24" ViewCount="3067" Body="&lt;p&gt;While commuting or touring I use a off road trekking bike with racks, a water-proof bag and some tools in case of flat tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my day trips I prefer my fitness bike and I want to be &quot;fast and light&quot; so I have no racks and bags. In my saddle minibag I have only a multitool and a tube. What else should I carry (e.g a pump) and with which way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1729" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T17:16:54.403" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T18:58:39.513" Title="What should I carry on day trips for emergencies?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5941" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:16:21.660" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much point in carrying a spare tube if you aren't carrying a pump. On road rides, I carry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two tubes (in seatbag)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patch kit (in seatbag)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multitool (in jersey pocket)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mini pump (lashed under seat bag). I have a yard or so of gorilla tape wound around the pump to use for…whatever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all comes down to whether you want to be prepared for 90% of the situations you're likely to encounter, or 95%, or 98%. Each step up that preparedness ladder requires that much more stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T17:16:21.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5941" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:20:56.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multi-tool, 1 tube, patch-kit, tire levers, CO2.&#xA;Anything else fits nicely in jersey pockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you use a CO2 or a pump depends on how likely it is for you to get a flat. If it happens rarely and you're good at finding cause of flats-- CO2 is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T17:20:56.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5941" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:21:50.217" Score="10" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cell phone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phone number of a reliable buddy to call if you need help&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T17:21:50.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5941" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:24:37.653" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd bring a &lt;strong&gt;spare tube&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;CO2 inflator&lt;/strong&gt;; these are light and small, and you might even be able to fit a spare cartridge or two. Actual pumps are bulkier, and the smaller pumps without a hose tend to do a terrible job, particularly with the slightly more fragile Presta valves you find on road bikes. (I'm assuming from &quot;fitness bike&quot; that you're talking about a road bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You already have the &lt;strong&gt;saddle bag&lt;/strong&gt; to carry all this in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That &lt;strong&gt;multitool&lt;/strong&gt; is pretty vital, so hang onto that. One that has a chain tool would be best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want a pair of &lt;strong&gt;tire levers&lt;/strong&gt; to get the tire off the rim. There are some multitools that have these built into the tool housing, but I've found they don't work as well as decent standalone tire levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes sense to bring along a &lt;strong&gt;patch kit&lt;/strong&gt; in case you have more than one flat. Something else to boot the tire in case of a sidewall puncture can be handy. You can use a dollar bill or an energy bar wrapper for this, though. You can also bring duct tape wound around a stubby pencil for this: It takes up little room, and you've got duct tape with you. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxJJzvAhxAI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A million household uses!&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, as one of the commenters has pointed out, you'll want a &lt;strong&gt;water bottle&lt;/strong&gt; and a &lt;strong&gt;bottle cage&lt;/strong&gt;. How many bottles you bring depends on your carrying capacity. You can toss some energy bars in a jersey pocket as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T22:27:58.480" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T22:27:58.480" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5941" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:29:29.247" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, minimal set of what to carry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bare Minimum:&lt;/strong&gt; (able to call a taxi and pay them to get you to a bike shop or to home)&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cell phone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ID (I prefer both a photo ID such as driver's license and something useful to emergency personnel like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crashtag.me/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crash Tag&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.roadid.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Road ID&lt;/a&gt;. So I can buy a beer at the halfway point and have something useful in case there's an accident and I'm unconscious)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some form of payment (cash, atm card, credit card, whatever)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water (bottle in a bottle cage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optional, but I'd never leave home without these:&lt;/strong&gt; (because a flat tire is your most common problem)&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump, or CO2 valve and a couple CO2 cartridges, or a pump with the CO2 valve and 1 CO2 cartridge. CO2 is faster and smaller, but you can basically only handle as many flats as you have cartridges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire levers (2 is easier, 1 might be sufficient)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 spare tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patch kit (pre-glued patches or patches and glue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any tool needed for wheel removal (not needed for quick-release hub)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optional, but I always have for a ride longer than half an hour:&lt;/strong&gt; (dealing with most problems)&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Energy bar or some other sort of small portable food item (low blood sugar when you need to pedal for another hour sucks).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small multitool that can adjust brakes, derailers, and at least temporarily deal with saddle issues. Also good to include chain tool, spoke wrenches...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Really optional, but I usually have these:&lt;/strong&gt; (and they're all quite tiny)&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A couple nitrile gloves, so you can deal with drivetrain repairs more cleanly. Especially if you have handlebar tape/grips in any color but black.   Useful when doing any chain repairs, but also comes in handy if you encounter a medical incident along your route.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A masterlink for your chain (if chain breaks, use chain breaker in multitool to remove broken link, masterlink to put chain back together and avoid your big ring until you replace the chain)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medications. I usually have a few Ibuprofen and a couple Benadryl. Ibuprofen for aches and Benadryl in case I get stung by something I'm allergic to. (not allergic enough to need epipen)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the most likely problem on the road is getting a single flat.  The next most likely is getting two flats (running through some glass that gets both tires or not getting the first flat quite fixed right).  So you need to be able to handle a flat and preferably two.  If you have a few small bills (or an energy bar wrapper) you can use one to temporarily patch the tire if there's a big hole in the tire itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like having 1 tube and a patch kit because swapping a tube is faster (especially with slow leaks) and it's possible to get a flat you can't really patch (too big, valve stem sheared off while pumping, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that everything else is much less likely to go wrong.  Brakes having an issue or the saddle sliding back are possible.  Running out of energy is possible. But those other non-flat things are unlikely enough that being able to call a friend or taxi or something like that is a sufficient backup plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a small enough set of things you can carry it in a jersey pocket or saddle bag. Pump can mount next to the water bottle cage or might fit in the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2020-12-02T16:46:11.640" LastActivityDate="2020-12-02T16:46:11.640" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5914" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:55:41.113" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are called pegs. Designed for tricks, in a BMX park or Flatland style. And they are not meant for another person to stand on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite the opposite. It is dangerous to ride a second person in that manner. And you risk damage to the hub of the bike, since the axle can bend or break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T17:55:41.113" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5948" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-07T18:52:09.617" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T18:52:09.617" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T18:52:09.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5949" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-07T18:52:09.617" Score="0" Body="Depreciated, please use [BMX] instead. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T18:52:09.617" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T18:52:09.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-07T19:09:20.683" Score="2" ViewCount="1049" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I was hit by a car; very minimal injuries and overall a very minor accident--but in hindsight it's made me realize I was ill prepared and really should have a small emergency kit with me at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kit would be for true &quot;emergencies&quot; only, not bike breakdowns.  If I find myself injured--or others find me injured and unconscious--what items and information should I have with me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kit should:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;contain the bare essentials&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be very compact and convenient to either transfer between bikes or build one for every bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;durable with very little maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;obvious to bystanders and/or emergency responders so that it will be found and opened if need be&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="1373" LastEditDate="2011-09-08T03:51:12.840" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T15:22:01.683" Title="What items should be in a bare-minimum first-aid / emergency kit?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5950" CreationDate="2011-09-07T19:11:54.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The items I've thought of which I consider critical to keep on me whenever riding (from here on out) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durable form of identification (laminated, plastic, etc)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primarily in case I'm unconscious&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Summary of medical information&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blood type, known medical allergies, health conditions, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emergency contact numbers&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After my accident I had to borrow a phone, I only knew the phone number of one person to call&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A couple gauze bandages and/or adhesive bandages&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably not critical to carry, but they're light and compact and would have helped rinse the road grit from my wounds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, water was invaluable for quickly cleaning out my road rash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastEditorUserId="1373" LastEditDate="2011-09-08T03:52:31.903" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T03:52:31.903" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5941" CreationDate="2011-09-07T20:14:21.420" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my road bike for a 45-50 mile ride, I'll end up with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;photocopy of drivers license with emergency contact info written on it (in jersey pocket or hydration pack, because that way its connected to me instead of the bike, incase the bike and I are separated. Think of being side-swiped by a car and how far you might end up from your bike.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pack under seat:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multi-tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CO2 inflater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pair of tire levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patch kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a $5 bill, folded up, incase you are in need of emergency food or drink. I figure on most road rides a gas station of convenience store is never that far away. Sometimes it comes in handy for that occasional roadside lemonade stand run my some kids that you just can't say no to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm mountain biking and farther from home, I have a larger hydration pack, and also carry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;small chain tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare chain link&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;long cotton tube sock (McGuyver tool... can be used as a glove, rag, tie things, wipe up in case nature calls (eeew), a bandage in case of a large wound, etc...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;actual pump, instead of CO2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spoke wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T20:14:21.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5950" CreationDate="2011-09-07T20:20:45.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sort of antiseptic, ideally something like a small bottle of Betadine, though regular ointment/cream will do fine, and it wouldn't hurt to have both&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gauze pads, in a couple of sizes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adhesive tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A few large Band-Aids&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some tissues or cotton pads for wiping off a wound&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, cell phone, money, and ID (placed somewhere where people can find it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my name, address, emergency contacts, etc on a gummed label stuck to the top bar of my bike and covered with clear tape&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T20:20:45.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5957" CreationDate="2011-09-08T07:31:59.153" Score="43" ViewCount="5654" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my commute to work, if there a cyclist in front of me, is it rude to catch up and draft?  To effectively draft I would usually need to be within a foot of their back wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trainers&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;There is one part of the commute that is often used by individuals and groups of riders who seem to be training rather than commuting. Generally I would draft these guys if I can sprint to catch them.  As they are going quicker than I can sustain, I never take a turn at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Commuters&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I think any fellow commuter is probably ok to draft and if they slow down enough I'll take a turn at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="99" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-08T18:49:14.237" LastActivityDate="2020-07-12T19:08:01.913" Title="Is it considered rude to draft other random cyclists?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;&lt;drafting&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2011-09-08T09:47:42.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm adding my voice to those for mirrors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used a bar-end mirror for some time while riding with 1) a child trailer attached 2) a companion on another bike behind me most of the time (I was the pace setter due to the trailer). It's invaluable, and I sorely miss it while riding my other bike, with or without a trailer attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model I've used: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zefal.com/en/mirrors/105-cyclop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Zefal Cyclop&lt;/a&gt;. I've chosen this one for its small size, it is adjustable (rotates + articulated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little con for this bar-end mirror is that I broke one very easily because of a bike fall while parked on its side-stand. I replaced it ASAP, and became more careful afterwards to turn it upwards when stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1260" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T09:04:06.347" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T09:04:06.347" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2011-09-08T09:48:38.050" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a post on this subject on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/2011/aug/25/cycling-commuter-drafting-etiquette&quot;&gt;The Guardian Bike Blog&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are a couple of issues with drafting random cyclists:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it could be unsafe, particularly if they don't realise you're doing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some people will object to being drafted - it can be considered an invasion of your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Personal_space&quot;&gt;personal space&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is to ask before drafting, then there's no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T09:48:38.050" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2011-09-08T09:52:54.447" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a potential minefield. If someone's on my wheel, to be honest I don't care. I prefer not to draft when commuting - I know the state of most of the roads I regularly use and I want decent visibility of the surface and other road users; it's a commute, not a heads-down speed session, so a few extra seconds at a lower speed is of little consequence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking over at the front needs careful thought to, especially to make sure that it doesn't look like you're cutting in or, in my case, suddenly blocking me from taking the line I want - not everyone wants you to 'take a turn'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are enough dangers on the commute in busy traffic that drafting is probably dangerous, if not rude, if they are random others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some further thoughts and interesting comments in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/2011/aug/25/cycling-commuter-drafting-etiquette&quot;&gt;this recent article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T09:52:54.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2011-09-08T11:30:50.800" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, it's a touchy situation.  Some won't mind it at all, some won't notice (and will therefore make hazardous moves), some will silently seethe, and some will get downright nasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was a regular commuter I would draft occasionally when the cyclist ahead of me was obviously a skilled one (ie, all the right clothes, fancy bike, etc) -- though, to be honest, in most of those cases I couldn't keep up anyway.  I wouldn't usually draft someone in street clothes on their Huffy (even though I could keep up with those).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On organized rides I'm a little more likely to take advantage of drafting, though one must be careful there since often riders in a group behave dumbly as they chit-chat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And I'll admit that I lower my standards a fair amount in a strong headwind.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I'll add that I'm talking here about drafting on straight bike trails and lightly-traveled rural roads.  Drafting in heavy traffic or in a &amp;quot;downtown&amp;quot; road layout is ill-advised at best.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I'll also add that when you are drafting without permission you should not get right up on the wheel of the guy in front of you, but rather should maintain 2-4 feet of separation between your front tire and his rear one.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2020-07-12T19:08:01.913" LastActivityDate="2020-07-12T19:08:01.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2011-09-08T11:50:39.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commuting 35 miles each day from St Albans to Wood Green for 2 years I never had anyone complain about drafting.  It was generally seen as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Near everyone I came across on the commute would want to race and drafting was just part of that, trying to keep up with the guy in front.  I never found it to be dangerous as you can only really do it on the open road.  In heavy traffic you're filtering and just getting through is challenge enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, all of these riders are skilled, experienced cyclists.  I've even had a few guys say thanks for the challenge or make &quot;better luck next time&quot; comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, it's part of the sport in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2348" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T11:50:39.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2011-09-08T12:02:17.107" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Really this question is 'chatty' and therefore doomed to be closed, however...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No it is not rude!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drafting should be taught at school as part of a Cycling Proficiency Test so that some conventions are established. This would encourage people to cycle together, taking turns up front and doing so more efficiently. Elbow twitches to get the guy behind to take a turn need to be an accepted convention and ladies not wanting a 'crafty drafter' behind them should be able to use this if they are not happy with whomever is following them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time you draft someone that thinks it is rude you are helping to break down their 'hostile' attitude. The truth is that one should be flattered to be drafted, particularly if you are old, with a rubbish bike or carrying loads of stuff. Drafting goes on, whether you like it or not, and the reality has to be lived with. If you really do not want to be drafted you could always put a big sticker on the back of your seat saying 'DO NOT DRAFT!' - 'L' plates for the bike as it were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly there is the problem of stopping suddenly for some drafter to go into the back of you. However, there are ways to deal with this potential threat. First of all, think of who is the most scared of a crash - you or the guy behind? The guy behind is not going to be right on your wheel if they are not experienced enough to draft close up. If they know what they are doing and know every pothole in the road then they might be up tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By convention, in a crash, it is the guy that goes into you that is at fault. You could have a car door or other instant stop requirement, however, if some cyclist goes into the back of you during such an incident, you do have to ask yourself a few questions about your own riding and not just blame the other guy. Even though the roads are full of hazards it is for you to anticipate and ride accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for 'providing a wheel' there should also be some convention to signify that this is being offered. Cut too close in front of someone and you can have some wheel entanglement, go past too fast and they ain't going to make it. When riding with a weaker rider and wanting to put in a good collective time successful drafting makes all the difference and it really should be taught at an early age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, my 20&quot; wheel 'shopping bike' is excellent for drafting. It is about a foot shorter at either end and that extra bit of proximity really helps whether up front or behind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T12:02:17.107" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-08T12:35:13.057" Score="3" ViewCount="2727" Body="&lt;p&gt;The college kid in our family has a old/ancient Raleigh 3 speed bike with long fenders.  Those fenders are held in place with a strange bolt that is threaded on both ends and has a head near one end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short end is screwed into the frame, the long end accepts the fender rods, and then a bolt tightens down on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the bolt with an 11/32&quot; socket, but the closest fit I can find is a metric size.  However that fit is either too loose (5mm 0.8) or too large (6mm 1.0).  So I'm guessing some wonky British bolt, or some proprietary Raleigh bolt.  Anyway, do you know of any place that might have bolts that fit this kind of bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've emailed the local Raleigh bike shop and either they don't know how to work their email, or they have no answer....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrsCz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrsCz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image from comments, in-lined to prevent link rot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2327" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-12-31T21:28:04.680" LastActivityDate="2016-12-31T21:28:04.680" Title="Where to find bolts for an old Raleigh Bicycle?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5962" CreationDate="2011-09-08T12:56:00.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent my formative years in a Raleigh Five Star Dealership that just so happened to buy up all of the vintage Raleigh mudguards of the steel type for 26&quot; wheel 3 speed bikes. (Raleigh had a warehouse clearance.) That was in the UK and we had mudguards for everything going back to AFTER the requirement for the white panel on the rear mudguard. Nothing from the the 70's onward had the bolt type you describe, although we also had a lot of frames including ones with the 7/32&quot; x 26 TPI eyelets. Sounds to me that you either have a U.S. special, something really obscure, something really, really old or something after-market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you put some new mudguards on there. It will be a lot less hassle.&#xA;For those new mudguards you can drill out the existing holes or use 5mm nuts and bolts, obviously with a fair few washers in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep the retro look of the existing mudguards, you could make your own 'P' clips with a bit of tin, some snips and a drill. These could then be attached with a metric nut and bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T12:56:00.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5950" CreationDate="2011-09-08T13:40:26.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going for bare minimum:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Betadine (or some sort of antiseptic)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;roll of sterile gauze&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ace bandage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Epipen or Benadryl&lt;br&gt;&#xA;space blanket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should get you through most serious injuries, at least those that could be treated by someone without much medical knowledge. Things like band aids are nice but more of a luxury, anything that can be covered by a band aid isn't a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with having numbers written down too, nobody remembers phone numbers anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1166" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T13:40:26.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2011-09-08T13:46:27.887" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drafting/pace-lining is great but you really have to ask FIRST. After that it is a question of trust and knowing your own skill as well as the other rider(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think we can all agree, however, that starting to draft somebody without notifying them is a definite breach of etiquette and safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T13:46:27.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2011-09-08T14:46:07.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I end up having to evaluate this on a rider-by-rider basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically if I've caught up to someone, then I'm going faster anyway, so I'll just pass them and keep my own pace. If someone passes me, then I try to keep up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you see a guy on a high-end bike, who is obviously skilled, and is constantly pedaling and varying his effort for slopes (as opposed to pedal, coast, pedal, coast)... These people are usually OK with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they start drafting you after you pass, and they eventually re-pass you, then its game-on.  I don't mind leap-frogging back and forth taking turns drafting, and the person in front basically trying to loose the tail. It makes otherwise boring rides more fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people really want nothing to do with it, and you can usually tell because they will suddenly increase their pedaling effort to loose you, instead of maintaining pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically though, I'll come up to someone, or as someone is passing me, say 'hi' and try to make conversation if the speed difference isn't too great, or we get stopped at the same intersection.  If they aren't willing to say 'hi' back or just nod and ride on... they probably don't care for you drafting off them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one time I really don't care is when I'm out on my hardtail mtn bike, and a road biker passes me. I'll draft and keep up with them for a couple hundred yards purely to annoy them that a mountain bike is pacing with them ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T14:46:07.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2011-09-08T15:45:10.140" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be more concerned about safety that etiquette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in a bike group and drafting behind someone who knows you are there, they are much more likely to keep a good lookout for road debris and other obstacles and smoothly adjust their line/path in order to not screw the drafting person over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm by myself (or am unaware of anyone drafting behind me) a lot of the time I dodge stuff with my tires at the last second. Most of the time I cut it close enough that if someone was behind me they wouldn't have time to react and would end up running over a lot of road debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T15:45:10.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5980" CreationDate="2011-09-08T16:04:56.723" Score="36" ViewCount="39729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a lot of road biking. I have a basic Catseye onboard computer for my speed and odometer. But I also use my iPhone to track and record my biking. I've tried a variety of iPhone apps, the best ones being iMapMyRide and Cyclemeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I get more serious with biking though, I'm looking around at the dedicated biking computers like the Garmin Edge. I'm trying to figure out if they are worth buying or not. Rewind the clock back about 5 years and I'd say definitely yes. But these days, with really awesome GPS-capable smartphone apps, I'm not so sure...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take for example iMapMyRide. You can buy a cheap ANT+ adapter for your iPhone and then use any ANT+ device with the software. Speedometer, cadence, heartbeat sensor, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also with these apps it does optional Live Tracking so that when you are out on your ride, your spouse (or anyone you want) can look at a webpage and see your progress on a map. You can do this with the Garmin Edge apparently but I think Garmin charges $25 a year or something for that service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I already have an iPhone/Android and I already take it on rides anyways (for emergencies), then &lt;strong&gt;is it worth it at all to get a dedicated biking computer?&lt;/strong&gt; Just about the only advantage I can think of is that the biking computers are smaller (less weight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any outstanding advantages to dedicated computers that I'm unaware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastEditorUserId="2357" LastEditDate="2011-09-08T18:45:21.170" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T21:50:46.390" Title="Are there advantages of dedicated bike computer instead of smartphone apps?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;iphone&gt;&lt;smartphone-mount&gt;&lt;android&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2011-09-08T17:30:14.490" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drafting behind a group that's already in a paceline is one thing, but drafting behind some random commuter is a great way to get into a wreck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A random commuter isn't going to necessarily know to (or want to be compelled to) inform you when he/she is slowing or needing to make a sudden movement. And are you really getting any benefit whatsoever from drafting behind someone going 15mph? What's the point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T17:30:14.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2011-09-08T17:34:49.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do think that an iPhone and ANT+ makes for a pretty compelling combination. One thing that the dedicated bike GPS hardware has all over a smartphone is battery life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can get better battery life out of a smartphone when logging a ride than most people imagine, it's still not close to the battery life you can get out of dedicated GPS hardware. You can cheat that some with backup batteries or other more exotic measures, but it's still an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to be riding way out in the sticks, the GPS hardware can also use built-in maps, so you're not dependent on a cellular signal to download map tiles (which is part of the reason the phone has poorer battery life as well). There may be some smartphone apps for cyclists that come with their own built-in maps, but I'm not aware of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T17:34:49.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-08T17:51:54.113" Score="1" ViewCount="1010" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a stock Boxxer RC 2011 on my bike, and I'm not overly impressed with it's damping.  On fast small bumps it tends pack down, and on big hits it bottoms out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it's only got overall external compression and rebound adjusters, I can only help one scenario or the other.  My mate has the model up (R2C2), which has both the upper and lower travel adjusters for each type amongst others, and it seems to have vastly better performance.  However, having serviced both of them, it looks likes much of the difference is in facilitating the extra external adjusters (not all though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is:  Will I get vastly superior performance out of it by sending it away to have the damping cartridge custom tuned to my weight and riding style?  Or is it a bit naff by design, so bite the bullet and fork out for an Avalanche/Elka upgrade cartridge (they're custom tuned upon ordering anyway)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-08T18:36:12.277" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T00:45:46.003" Title="Avalanche upgrade cartridge for Boxxer, or tune existing?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2011-09-08T18:25:18.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would call this behavior rude and dangerous outside of an organized ride or a small group that rides together often and expects it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5955/is-it-considered-rude-to-draft-other-random-cyclists/5961#5961&quot;&gt;taught how to handle drafting&lt;/a&gt;, similarly to how auto drivers are taught to handle tailgaters. (It'd be nice if cyclists were taught how to ride at all.) However, this is not the case: Cyclists are taught how to stay upright and, if we're lucky, that they should obey traffic laws. The reality of the situation at present is that cyclists don't expect this and don't know how to handle it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you draft someone, it's so they can take some of the wind. Would you walk up to a random pedestrian and hand them your shopping bags? Of course not. Drafting someone without their permission is similar behavior. Drafting is normal and expected in, say, a pace line, or when riding with a friend, but not on the roads with a random cyclist. But I think there needs to be at least an expectation that it will happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: In general, when drafting, it's assumed that you'll take a turn at the front. If you can't sustain somebody's pace for long, don't ask to draft them, and certainly don't do it without asking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T18:50:55.687" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2011-09-08T18:56:04.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to use my old beaten-up bikes to commute in winter time because I know the winter will destroy them anyways (the crud, the slush splashing, the salt, etc.) and I don't want to ruin my good summer bike.. This, combined with my tight financial situation, makes for unsafe rides most of the time (failing brakes, no gears and other weird stuff), ESPECIALLY considering what else is going on in the streets in Montreal (cars, trucks, hidden potholes, ice patches, etc). That being said, while a good bike and good clothing will certainly help (other answers take care of these pretty well), I think it's just as important to prepare yourself. Here is the advice I usually give &quot;winter-beginners&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be visible. Visibility is a big problem in winter time because of shorter days and snowfall. Have reflectors on your bike and clothing and use lights at night.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be predictable. Response-times are much slower in winter for many reasons (the cold, the grief, the snow, the ice). Follow straight lines, signal before turning, look drivers in the eye to make sure they saw you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow down. You just can't rely on your brakes in winter, nor on those of the people you meet (cars, bikes, trucks, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn how to stop when your breaks fail. I always suggest practicing getting off the bike on the side while rolling. It's an easy skill to develop and I've used it so many times to save my life when my brakes just didn't cut it on an icy surface. The trick is that even if you know how to get off your bike quickly, you have to think of it when the crucial time comes. It's like hurting you elbow when falling down because you had a pillow in your hand. You could have dropped the pillow and fallen on your hand, but you didn't think of it and fell on your elbow instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2360" LastEditorUserId="2360" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T16:13:38.017" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T16:13:38.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2011-09-08T19:00:50.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a plus for Smart-Phone apps, they are likely to progress quicker, add features faster, fix bugs faster, and provide more frequent version updates than GPS units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another plus for smart-phones is that I'll take my cell phone on a long road ride anyway in case of emergency. Carrying 1 device is easier than 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A plus for a GPS unit is that it is probably easier to read the display in outdoors sunlight, since it is designed for that purpose. And easier to clamp to the handlebars and monitor other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to pick 1, I'd go for the phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T19:00:50.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2011-09-08T19:14:28.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;[I cycle in Montreal where cars drive on the right hand side]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find a good way of keeping safe(er) when approaching an intersection is to always prepare for an emergency right-turn. Basically, if something unexpected pops up on me, I already know what my plan B is: turn right. Often, what I'll do when approaching an intersection where visibility of the crossing road is a problem, is to actually start turning right until I'm actually ON the cross street. From there, I have a clear view of on-coming traffic and I can turn back on my original road. Note that I don't turn completely right, I just follow some kind of curve getting me further from cars which could arrive on my left and preparing me for an emergency right turn if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2360" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T19:14:28.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4317" CreationDate="2011-09-08T19:44:51.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Learn to whistle loudly and be prepared to do so when approaching a dangerous spot (intersection, recently-parked-car-whose-door-could-open-any-time, etc.). The trick is to start whistling before you need to so you don't waste time finding that sweet-spot; When the need actually arises, all you need to do is crank up the volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has worked for me many times and I estimate I am personally responsible for avoiding 10-15 accidents involving myself or others simply by whistling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2360" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T19:44:51.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5950" CreationDate="2011-09-08T20:12:54.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe also a pair of nitrile gloves - lots of people are skittish about getting near someone else's blood. Also, I've used my first aid kit on other folks more often than myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T20:12:54.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-08T20:20:49.333" Score="2" ViewCount="837" Body="&lt;p&gt;When doing a rolling dismount, one foot stays on its pedal, the other has to cross over somehow. Would you suggest crossing over in front of you (while sitting, folding you knee to allow the cross-over) or behind you (standing on your pedal and extending the other leg out behind you to cross over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I don't mean to know which you prefer, rather which is safer/easier/quicker than the other, and why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2360" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T22:33:01.983" Title="Rolling dismount: leg crosses over in front of you or behind?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2011-09-08T20:30:01.407" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently thought that my smartphone would replace my bike computer, but have come to the conclusion that the bike computer is better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One is that the phone is much larger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second is mounting. (Whether a suitable mount is available depends on the phone model.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third, and this is important... is that smartphones are not designed to sit out exposed to hot sun, extreme temps, and rain; all of which commonly occur in serious cycling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fourth is ease of use. My bike computer was specifically designed to sit on the handlebars with easy access to most all functions and in typical cycling conditions. The smartphone is not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fifth, my smartphone is important to my professional life. So, having it destroyed in a bike crash would not be good at all. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sixth, definitely battery life; although I suppose this depends on the particular phone. (On a recent century+, my riding partner brought along 3 extra batteries and used them all, for his HTC Evo...and my bike computer was still humming along at the end of the day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few months back, I bought a smartphone handlebar mount and case which all looked fine in the comfort of my basement. Anyway, once on the bike and in real conditions, it was unusable. The worst thing was that in the glare of sun, I couldn't even see the screen. Also, changing functions was a pain because of the case. Anyway, I rapidly went back to my bike computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW...I do carry my phone with me and use Endomondo. However, the phone stays in my jersey pocket; but for typical ride data I use the bike specific computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-09-15T17:16:03.470" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T17:16:03.470" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5979" CreationDate="2011-09-08T20:33:43.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I &lt;strong&gt;strongly recommend coming to a complete stop&lt;/strong&gt;, I would think that standing on your pedal and extending the other leg out behind you to cross over would be safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the cross-in-front alternative, your pedal foot is stuck behind the leg that hits the ground and I would expect there to be a significant risk of getting tangled up while in this 'grapevine' position and tripping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T20:33:43.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5979" CreationDate="2011-09-08T21:49:27.483" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a Victorian ladies style frame, crossing your leg in front of you is a fine way to crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T21:49:27.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5988" CreationDate="2011-09-08T22:21:33.627" Score="5" ViewCount="11023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my old, filthy bike apart to clean it up.  I have never done this before!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took the front wheel bearings out, I ended up retrieving 9 from one side and 10 from the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like logically there are a few explanations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There were actually 10 each side but I dropped one without noticing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's designed to have a different number on each side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not designed to have a different number on each side, but the bike shop put it together wrong and I've somehow got away with it over the years.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I honestly think I was being super careful and that it's not (1), but I'm prepared to accept it could be that if the others are impossible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I guess in practical terms, what I really need to know is ... should I put it back together with 9 on one side, or should I buy some new bearings so I have 10 each side?  I think I read somewhere that 10 each side is standard for a front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T11:51:22.507" Title="Can a front wheel have a different number of bearings on each side?" Tags="&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5983" CreationDate="2011-09-08T23:02:51.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try to buy new bearing balls and fit 10 brand new balls properly greased in each side.&#xA;I can't think of any reason for a front wheel to have more balls in one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that your wheel uses rim brake, which being properly adjusted should put a fairly symmetrical load to the wheel assembly. Most modern hubs designed for Disc Brakes also use the same kind of bearing for each side. Even rear hubs, that clearly have a greater side to side load difference are commonly designed with identical bearings for both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if there is no obvious difference in the left/right sides of the hub, the most reasonable answer is to use the same amount of bearing balls for each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a personal tip: Some non-pro hubs use ball bearings consisting of a number of balls held together by some sort of cage. This cage keeps the balls separated. I use to buy a couple of extra bearings, take them apart and fit as many balls as possible, with also, as much grease as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this based on the argument that the load will be spread among more balls, thus diminishing the load for each individual ball, with the positive effect of extending the time between hub maintenances. My results are that I have never had a case of cracked bearing balls in any hub that had this procedure performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T23:02:51.560" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5979" CreationDate="2011-09-08T23:09:31.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with previous answers, cross the leg behind you. But, if there is a reason for which you prefer to do it crossing the leg in front of you, in the final dismount movement, I recommend to hop out of the saddle and land with both feet on the ground more or less at the same time but with one in front of the other (Preferably the one that crossed from the other side should be in front). This maneuver should allow you to quickly star the run or walk prior to the complete stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2011-09-08T23:09:31.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5972" CreationDate="2011-09-09T00:18:23.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not too familiar with the Boxxer line, but it looks like they come in both a coil and air versions. If yours is a coil one, have you considered trying a stiffer spring? It is likely the cheapest option, and should help with the bottoming out, and will quicken the rebound for the 'packing down' on small bumps. Replacing the spring is probably the cheapest option too, so it might be worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T00:18:23.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5983" CreationDate="2011-09-09T00:27:48.647" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not unusual for an asymmetric shaft (on some rear wheels or solid-crank bottom brackets, eg) to have different numbers of balls in one side vs the other. But it's a little unusual for a standard front hub.  And if there's intentionally a difference then there would be a small but visible difference in the size of the races as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely the hub was serviced in the past and one ball was lost (or you lost one somehow).  But it's not really terribly serious.  It's often recommended (as a general rule for ball bearings) to have &quot;a full race minus one&quot; vs having the race completely full, and your typical 10-ball bearing can survive reasonably missing 2-3 balls (though that's not ideal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since you have things apart it would be worthwhile to replace the balls.  (Don't mix old and new balls.)  See if ten fit comfortably.  If they fit, and there's still room for a fingernail between them, then use ten, otherwise go with nine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T00:27:48.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2011-09-09T00:33:47.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably not rude. But it is most likely a bit dumb to draft random cyclists in front of you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When drafting, I want the leader to take charge and be in control of the roadway. So, that means I need to trust the leader. In a random situation, how do I trust the leader? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why I don't draft behind random folks in front of me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T00:33:47.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5991" CreationDate="2011-09-09T00:43:37.327" Score="0" ViewCount="1498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a decent fixed gear model. My whole cycling background is on Mountain Biking, so I don't want to build a fixie with spare parts or convert.&#xA;I am looking at some out of the box whole bikes, like Surly Steamroller (which I suspect is a bit heavy), GT Gutterball (which perhaps might be too attractive to thieves) and others (which might be to expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to have a light (less than 20lb) steel beater which I can lock anywhere with no worries and forget about maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: My target price would be around $700 to $1000 brand new, which could give me a nicer used bike, or a cheaper semi-new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T13:33:00.577" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T04:10:14.157" Title="Recommendations on best-value stock fixed gear model?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;utility-cycling&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5990" CreationDate="2011-09-09T02:06:51.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your looking for a &quot;beater&quot; fixie that you don't have to worry about getting stolen and maintaining, it might be worth checking out Craigslist. I see fixies come up every couple days in my area.  IMO, its not worth spending the $ on a brand new bike to be your beater bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want something brand new, Redline makes some nice bikes that are usually a tad cheaper than the competition. They make the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redlinebicycles.com/bikes/commute/2012-urbis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Urbis&lt;/a&gt; which I think is around $750 or so, which I think is close to the Steamroller in price, but has a disc brake (which I suppose might make it more attractive to thieves, but does add value for the price). No idea on weights though, since manufacturers rarely publish them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of budget are you looking at here (&quot;too expensive&quot; is a very relative term)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastEditorUserId="2334" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T02:16:13.540" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T02:16:13.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5979" CreationDate="2011-09-09T03:41:38.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moving the leg around behind you is better because after it's around, you can put it on the ground without crossing your legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, suppose you keep your left foot in the pedal. If you bring your right foot over the front, then put it on the ground, with your left foot still in the pedal and the bike still moving slowly, it tends to twist your body around to the left so you're facing backward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bring your right foot over the back, it's in a natural position for you to start running alongside the bike in motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's easier to bring your leg over the back because you don't have to bend your knee so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T03:41:38.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5950" CreationDate="2011-09-09T03:48:09.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on your definition of first aid. How long will it take you to get to a doctor in an emergency? If it's only a few minutes, you need something to stop bleeding and close a wound. An hour or two, and you need disinfectants, something to clean the wound, and maybe personal medications. If you're several hours or days from help, the bare minimum list gets longer and more controversial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I joked about a cell phone, but if you ride where there's cell service, you're crazy not to carry one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T03:48:09.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5693" CreationDate="2011-09-09T08:36:25.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have quite thorough experience, the solution is like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CAVBu.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I carried also a camera and 4 lens (one of them 500mm) this way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go to tropical destinations, it is much harder because you also have to protect your electronics from condensated humidity. That's another story for another answer. Just ask if it's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2363" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T08:36:25.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5983" CreationDate="2011-09-09T11:51:22.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;10 each side!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Invariably a bicycle has 10 3/16&amp;quot; balls on each side on the front and 9 1/4&amp;quot; balls on each side in the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to read the Park Tool guide that confirms this and has plenty of tips for doing the job properly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need cone spanners, some clean grease and a new pack of 3/16&amp;quot; balls. The balls are cheap so replace all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important to get right is the bearing preload. Tighten the hub until it is running smoothly, then put a bit of extra on the locknuts to get everything really tight. If you are lucky then the bearing will feel slightly rough when you turn it, i.e. not as smooth as you set it up before the extra tightening. This will give a reasonable amount of preload on the bearing. Preload is important for carrying your weight properly and the longevity of the bearing. What you don't want is for the bearing to have play or be over-tight, the above technique should help you to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T11:51:22.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-09T12:02:37.380" Score="14" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10069/does-drafting-cause-resistance-to-the-lead-rider&quot;&gt;Does drafting cause resistance to the lead rider?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the lead rider notice any difference if there was another rider drafting behind them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="99" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T13:09:40.740" Title="Does drafting a rider slow that rider down?" Tags="&lt;drafting&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-09-02T04:34:20.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10069" CreationDate="2011-09-09T12:13:14.263" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is ... it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, by reducing/filling the vacuum that exists behind the lead rider, the drafter would be expected to give the leader a slight boost (though nowhere near the boost the drafter gets).  But fluid dynamics is a tricky thing, and there are probably configurations (based on a few millimeters movement one way or the other) where the leader can be slowed.  I wouldn't expect the negative effect to occur very often, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger effect on the leader is the demands placed on him to maintain a steady pace and better signal his intentions.  Many are apt to find this responsibility stressful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T12:13:14.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10069" CreationDate="2011-09-09T13:09:40.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is an aerodynamic difference, it is so small it is utterly unnoticeable in practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a paceline, the resistance experienced by the front rider is overwhelmingly dominated by slicing through the air in front of him. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you're thinking of a velodrome race? What often happens is that the second rider will pass around the outside by quickly blowing-up all the energy he's saved by being behind the first guy. In the last lap of the race, the only way the front guy can respond is by speeding up and keeping the passer from getting in front before the last turn. This way the front guy can hang the passer &quot;out to dry&quot; on the turn forcing him to not only to keep up the acceleration but to travel a longer distance around the outside of turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That kind of race situation might lead someone to believe that the front rider gains some kind of an advantage when the second guy jumps. It is an illusion. The front guy has to &quot;work for it&quot; all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T13:09:40.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5979" CreationDate="2011-09-09T14:50:30.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on what type of riding you are doing and whether or not you have clipless pedals. If you are a cyclocross racer, the left foot remains in the pedal, and the right foot swings over the back wheel, then threads between the left foot and the frame to step on the ground. This fast, but tricky dismount is explained in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTTOBnu7w-k&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; from a former cyclocross national champion. Some triathletes use a similar technique. If you do not have clipless pedals or your left foot is resting on top of your shoes, you can swing the right foot over the back wheel, position just behind the left foot, and then hop of the bike to land on your right foot. The safest thing to do, however, is to stop and dismount.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1953" LastEditorUserId="1953" LastEditDate="2011-09-12T22:33:01.983" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T22:33:01.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5950" CreationDate="2011-09-09T15:22:01.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing that I carry is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A small knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrical tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paired with a t-shirt this can make any sized bandage.  The other plus is that they are also useful for bike repairs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the trick to keep the tape small: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut a small piece of cardboard from a cereal box&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unwrap the tape from the roll over the square cereal box square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unwrap when needed.  (Much more compact than bringing a roll).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T15:22:01.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2011-09-09T15:42:16.130" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, the relevant legislation is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1984/27/part/VI&quot;&gt;Road Traffic Regulation Act&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General speed limit for restricted roads.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(1)&#xA;  It shall not be lawful for a person to drive a motor vehicle on a restricted road at a speed exceeding 30 miles per hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(2)&#xA;  The Ministers acting jointly may by order made by statutory instrument and approved by a resolution of each House of Parliament increase or reduce the rate of speed fixed by subsection (1) above, either as originally enacted or as varied under this subsection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the offence only applies to &lt;strong&gt;motor vehicles&lt;/strong&gt;, a bicycle is not a motor vehicle, so you cannot be guilty of speeding on a bicycle. You could be charged with either &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1988/52/part/I/crossheading/cycling-offences-and-cycle-racing&quot;&gt;Dangerous Cycling or Careless And Inconsiderate Cycling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T15:42:16.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2011-09-09T16:52:48.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Austria (haven't checked in other countries, not having had a chance to bike there), cyclists are not exempt from the respective country's traffic code; furthermore, it is the responsibility of the traffic member to observe the traffic code (and not having brought a speedometer is your own problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, however, I have never even &lt;em&gt;heard&lt;/em&gt; of a speeding ticket for a cyclist (whereas tickets for other violations are issued - riding under influence, running a red light, etc.), as 1) the posted speeds are usually way higher than a cyclist can realistically reach and 2) the police usually doesn't measure the cyclists' speeds (be it in person or via traffic cameras).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, getting actually &lt;em&gt;arrested&lt;/em&gt; for breaking the speed limit (even in a car) is practically unheard of, unless there's some other offence you've committed; perhaps cycling on a freeway could get you there (illegal on a bike, plus a &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; speed limit of 60 kph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1528" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T16:52:48.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6014" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:57:35.667" Score="7" ViewCount="4940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've finally gotten to the nirvana-like level of not caring if it's raining / snowing etc when I ride. While this is great from a biking perspective I still end up with wet feet / socks. While this is unlikely to kill me or make me especially unhappy (after all, I still got out riding...) I was wondering of anyone else had a clever solution for wet feet. When I'm riding with booties in the winter it's not a problem, but this isn't going to work in the other three seasons (too hot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seem folks wrap their feet in plastic baggies (too hot, and you need to wrap your head in aluminum foil to get the full look) and had others suggest sock material that won't lose insulating qualities when wet (unfortunately, can't fit either my road or mountain shoes over any of my wool socks). Are there thinner wool socks that could work for mid fall / early spring? How about silk / lycra liners? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T18:28:00.017" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T15:24:23.430" Title="Keeping your feet dry (or do you not even care?)" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6003" CreationDate="2011-09-09T18:23:58.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't care too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; long rainy rides, wet feet aren't too bad unless you also have to deal with low temperatures. In that case you have to have booties to cover the feet to keep them from getting wet in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some pairs of &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smartwool.com/mens/l/cycle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;smartwool&lt;/a&gt;&quot; cycling socks. They're thin enough and durable for cycling. When it rains, your feet still get soaking wet but they dry out fairly quick, and are slightly more comfortable than regular cycling socks (which really aren't too bad either). Cotton socks would mostly likely be a very bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shoes, I think, are just as important. Sidi's tend to be very porous so they drain well. I don't know if other shoes also drain well. If not, they're probably not good for wet weather and cycling in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T18:23:58.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6003" CreationDate="2011-09-09T18:30:01.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it's really cold or really wet, I wear water resistant shoes. Some sort of cover over your shoes would be good instead. (make sure the water resistant pants go down to the shoe so you don't fill the shoe with water via your ankles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's slightly wet but not that cold, I wear wool socks.  Actually, I wear wool socks all through summer, too.  I'm more likely to wear the almost invisible (&quot;micro&quot; height) ones during summer and ones that cover the ankle a little (&quot;mini&quot;, &quot;half crew&quot;, &quot;3/4 crew&quot;) during cooler weather.  I find that wool socks keep the feet reasonably comfortable if there's a bit of moisture.  In heavy rain where there's significant water flow through your shoe nothing is going to help because the water is being replaced with cold rain water too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the type of wool does matter.  Merino is more expensive but less itchy. I believe the longer fibers in merino may make it easier to make thinner socks, too. Make sure it's not acrylic, which can look and feel a lot like wool but doesn't have the wicking or antibacterial properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as where to find wool cycling socks? Check at your local cycling stores first. Also check at outdoor stores since summer hikers often like thin wool socks that don't go up the ankle too.  Shoe store or running store might also have something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brand I usually wear is Smart Wool, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smartwool.com/mens/l/cycle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these socks&lt;/a&gt;. I've seen wool socks intended for cycling from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sockguy.com/category/19_1/EliteTech.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sock Guy&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.defeet.com/prodline.php?line=Wool&amp;amp;type=s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DeFeet&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.capocycling.com/apparel/socks-shoe-covers/merino-wool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Capo&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://castelli-cycling.com/en/products/detail/440/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Castelli&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.endura.co.uk/Product.aspx?dept_id=108&amp;amp;prod_id=369&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Endura&lt;/a&gt;, and others however. They don't necessarily have to be specifically for cycling, any thin merino wool sock that fits well should work so a &quot;running&quot; or &quot;casual&quot; sock could be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T18:30:01.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6008" CreationDate="2011-09-09T19:53:25.143" Score="2" ViewCount="3135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard once that you should clean your chain with a light degreaser whenever it looks especially dirty or at the very least once every few months. But that doesn't account for frequency of rides or miles ridden! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been riding my road bike over 100 miles per week for the last month and have been meaning to clean my chain anyway... and then...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The past week my chain kept popping off the chainrings. Four times out of five it was while shifting from the small ring to the big one. I believe it also happened when accelerating from a pretty low speed, like just at the crest of a very steep hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to clean my chain anyway, but I'm just curious: could a very dirty chain be causing it to pop off the rings? Or could this be a problem of technique? Or do I just need a general tuneup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2237" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T19:09:16.270" Title="Can a greasy chain cause the chain to come off the rings?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6003" CreationDate="2011-09-09T19:59:51.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's cold, it's really not much fun having wet feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the summer, I use either some GoreTex trainers or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sealskinz.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SealSkinz&lt;/a&gt; waterproof socks for when it's raining. I really like the Sealskinz. One time the heavens opened just before leaving work and only had sandals, but then found the SealSkinz in my bag - that was almost perfect, warm, dry feet and no shoes to dry out once home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the winter (lots of snow in Helsinki), I wear normal winter boots to just above the ankle, which are also waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Merino socks are very good, I have some SmartWool ones. You can get SealSkinz with merino as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T19:59:51.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6006" CreationDate="2011-09-09T20:08:55.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  A greasy chain won't cause the chain to pop off, and it would have to be exceptionally dirty for dirt to cause this.  (I've ridden many miles with greasy, dirty chains.)  Generally a chain comes off due to maladjustment or because of a worn component (usually a cog).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poor technique can contribute to the problem, but the technique either needs to be pretty bad or there needs to be another contributing factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T20:08:55.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5855" CreationDate="2011-09-09T20:09:39.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 8i uses what Shimano calls a cassette joint. It's wraps the cable around the back side of the hub and as the shifter pulls the cable it moves a bracket counterclockwise backwards on the hub body. Cable tension on a brand new Nexus/Alfine 8-speed hub needs to be precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift the bike into 4th gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the cable tension indicator. There is one on the top and the bottom of the hub. The top one is a small plastic window. The bottom one is a small piece of metal painted yellow. It may be easier to find if you can flip the bike over&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the barrel adjuster on the shifter until you see the outboard yellow line move&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep turning the adjuster in either direction (probably out, counterclockwise) until the yellow lines are aligned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shift into 3rd gear, then back into 4th and adjust again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shift into 5 gear, then back into 4th and adjust again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat until you're satisfied with adjustment. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should stop your gear slippage. If the shifter cable isn't properly lubricated or there's binding somewhere then you should see a problem while dialing in the adjustment. If you can't get this adjustment right to your satisfaction take the bike back and have the shop do it. They shouldn't charge you for this if the bike is new. Make sure they test ride it so they can experience the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is an old hub and you've ridden it misadjusted for a long time it is possible to damage the hubs innards. Replacing the hub guts should only be done at a shop that deals with these hubs regularly and has the special lubricating bath that they require for proper maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastEditorUserId="2370" LastEditDate="2011-09-12T01:54:22.250" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T01:54:22.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6006" CreationDate="2011-09-09T20:32:43.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it pop off the outside of the big ring? If so, then the outside limit of the front derailleur probably needs to be brought in. If it's falling off the inside the it might not be &quot;picking up&quot; properly. Like Daniel says, poor technique (like up-shifting under heavy load) can cause this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think fully degreasing your chain is a good practice. I think its better in most cases to simply apply more clean lube than stripping the grease out first. A clean chain is awesome to look at but doesn't necessarily perform better than a properly lubed (but grey) chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T20:32:43.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6003" CreationDate="2011-09-09T20:38:58.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in Portland where we have months of cold and rain I typically wear wool socks and leather boots for my commute. In the past when I've worn cycling shoes I would wear a low-cut wool sock and neoprene booties. In our climate this serves me for the whole rainy season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T20:38:58.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5871" CreationDate="2011-09-09T20:44:35.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say wether this bike came equipped with an internally-geared hub. If you have an 8-speed IGH then you should get a tube of Shimano's white grease they make specifically for this hub. There's also a lubricating bath they sell that you would use to flush and lube the guts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T20:44:35.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6003" CreationDate="2011-09-10T01:04:42.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually I don't care about my feet getting wet, as long as I'm not cold. If I'm commuting to work, I just pack extra socks so my feet aren't wet all day. If I'm out for other purposes (exercise, recreation, etc.) then I'll just change when I get home.  Same reason I avoid fenders. I am very rarely in a situation where I care if I get wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T01:04:42.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6003" CreationDate="2011-09-10T04:06:45.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep extra socks at work, and typically turn my commuting socks inside out and place them and my shoes on top of my computer tower under my desk to dry them out. When the weather goes chilly, I adopt these techniques:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;polypro sock liners&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;wool socks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;plastic bag keeps cold water out, blocks cold breeze&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ankle hiker or other leather shoe&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;low gaiters, with the tops tucked under my rain pant cuffs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep two pairs of commuting shoes in rotation, to give one a whole day to dry out, to try and avoid fungus buildup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep feet warm, I keep my shoes laced loosely, and I avoid tight fitting socks. I want to keep as much circulation in my feet as possible. Your feet will feel colder if you pile on a lot of socks and constrict your circulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My old (street shoes) are very old, hardly worth keeping now. I'm days away from getting some Keen sandals and sealskinz socks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read warm recommendations for fleece socks and neoprene socks (neoprene apparently wicks and blocks wind).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T04:06:45.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6018" CreationDate="2011-09-10T20:37:52.423" Score="5" ViewCount="1206" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/recreation/pure/pure_deluxe/#&quot;&gt;Trek Pure Deluxe&lt;/a&gt; 3-speed cruiser has been making a clicking noise when riding for some time. The problem is faint, and is more felt than heard. However, it's been getting worse; it now makes a grinding noise if I'm mashing a bit when going uphill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise seems to happen when the right crank arm is facing forward. Which gear I'm in makes little difference. I've eliminated saddle noise (by pedaling out of the saddle) and have replaced the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else at all that this could be, or should I just replace the BB at this point? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-11T00:04:07.770" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T20:13:17.220" Title="Cruiser bottom bracket is clicking and grinding" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6015" CreationDate="2011-09-10T22:39:00.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure your crank arms and chain ring are also tight. I've had loose crank arms on a square taper BB make a faint clicking sound/feeling when it was loose. Not sure what kind of BB that bike has though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If neither of those seems loose, and you have the tools, I would pull off the crank arms and spin the BB axle to see if the bearings feel ok. It is possible that you could have done something to mess up a bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add some backstory; one of by bikes had a Shimano LX crank and square taper BB (2001-ish), and it had a large hex wrench bolt to hold it on (like 6 or 8 mm i think).  I had to tighten the crank bolts so hard to make the arms tight, that my hex wrench's sides are now all twisted into a slight spiral, instead of being straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastEditorUserId="2334" LastEditDate="2011-09-11T13:57:03.993" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T13:57:03.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6015" CreationDate="2011-09-10T22:52:16.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Square Taper chainsets do this, even if they get checked for tightness before sale. A 'free service' with the bike sometimes involves nothing more than tightening these fellas up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem of square taper crank arms coming loose was why Shimano came along with Octalink splined bottom brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you will be able to get away with just tightening up the cranks. A 15mm socket set is what you need, and gloves! (Or else you can smash up your hands or hurt your hand on the socket set lever.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also tighten up these bolts on the ground, back brake on, with a foot on the socket set lever at the 3 o'clock setting. Do both sides and don't bother taking them off or anything like that first. Opinions vary on whether you should have any grease in there, personally I have found grease to not do any harm, but, in general no grease is the norm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason your bike has the square taper design is that Shimano patented Octalink so it did not become an industry standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem persists then you might have already 'rounded' one or other of the crank arms. With the left-hand crank you can get a spare 170mm arm, although not necessarily to match the other arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T22:52:16.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6015" CreationDate="2011-09-11T01:32:18.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, the first thought would be a loose crank arm, and if it isn't tended to immediately (if it's not too late already) the crank arm and possibly the spindle will be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility, if this is a cartridge BB, is that the cartridge is slightly loose.  But in that case the noise is usually only present under high load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I'll add that tightening the crank arms is one of the half-dozen or so items that should be taken care of during the free once-over (after a few months use) that you should get from a bike shop if you buy a bike there.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-09-11T14:16:02.840" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T14:16:02.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6029" CreationDate="2011-09-11T12:23:44.670" Score="14" ViewCount="2486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently seen this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/revolights/revolights-join-the-revolution?ref=spotlight&quot;&gt;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/revolights/revolights-join-the-revolution?ref=spotlight&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically it's leds on the wheel + a timing mechanism + persistence of vision effect. The video on the web page shows it in action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that this immensely enhances riders visibility (it's really hard not to see what basically looks like a Tron Light Cycle), but I can't really judge how good is the lighting provided in terms of seeing in the dark, or if the design brings serious reliability concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, would these lights make safer than a “normal” light, or is just a costly gimmick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2296" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T21:25:17.883" Title="Are revolights a good idea?" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-09-11T15:03:05.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Copenhagen, Denmark&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another interesting bike sharing system. What's unique about this system is that the bikes are free to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fbW8F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Copenhagen City Bikes or Bycykler København is the bicycle sharing&#xA;  system of Copenhagen, Denmark. Launched in 1995 with 1,000 cycles, the&#xA;  project was the world's first large-scale urban bike-sharing scheme.&#xA;  It features specially designed bikes with parts that cannot not be&#xA;  used on other bikes. Riders pay a refundable deposit at one of 110&#xA;  special bike stands and have unlimited use of a bike within the&#xA;  specified downtown area. The scheme is funded by commercial sponsors.&#xA;  In return, the bikes carry advertisements, which appear on the bike&#xA;  frame and the solid-disk type wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copenhagen_City_Bikes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T15:03:05.197" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-11T15:03:05.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6054" CreationDate="2011-09-11T17:02:26.147" Score="2" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;A followup to my own &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5857/what-kind-of-master-link-is-most-convenient-for-igh-fixie-ss-setups&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;, seeking specific help.  I'd like to know if anyone is using a set of &quot;master link pliers&quot; (something like Park's &lt;strike&gt;MLP-1&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/master-link-pliers-mlp-1-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MLP-1.2&lt;/a&gt;, or try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/search?query=&amp;amp;autocomplete_query=master-link-pliers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this search&lt;/a&gt;) to help them with derailer-free chain work?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJwdy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1728#1728&quot;&gt;IGH&lt;/a&gt; without a derailer or tensioner, so my chain line resembles a fixie / SS setup.  The chain has an ok amount of tension, but without a derailer, generating enough slack in the chain to both remove and reattach the power link isn't happening unless I remove the rear wheel.  Will a tool like the Park MLP-1 allow me to get the chain off &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; back on again for regular cleaning without forcing me to remove the rear wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks oodles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2304" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T00:39:15.180" Title="Do Master Link pliers help with SS / fixie chain assembly?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6019" CreationDate="2011-09-11T17:18:26.427" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, with easy to spot 'caveats'...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On 'Critical Mass' bike rides there are all kinds of imaginative lighting setups that give individual riders individuality. We like creativity in cycling and how everyone is different. Undoubtedly these lights are cool and would be fab on a Critical Mass ride. Therefore, for that reason 'yes'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveats...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LED lights are not a focused light source unless you have some well designed reflectors to work with them. That is why halogen lights still exist on the marketplace for bike lighting - they may not have the battery life or the bulb life but the light quality is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3M company worked with Vrederstein tyres in the 1980's to create reflective tyre walls. These reflect the light of car headlamps straight back at the driver, and car headlamps are brighter than a bunch of LEDs. Therefore, to solve the problem of illuminating bike wheels, the 3M/Vrederstein solution is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for forward lighting. There used to be brackets for putting a light low down on the fork blade, many bikes used to come with a boss exactly for this purpose. However we have moved to placing the light higher up on the handlebars, not even pausing half-way to use the reflector bracket. Low-mounted lights are not visible to the car in front in the way that handlebar mounted lights are. Most riding is in cities where cars are the problem and street lighting exists, that said, the low-mounted light is better for riding trails etc. where you do need to see what is immediately in front of you. However, modern lights frequently have a lens/reflector design to put the light where it is needed from the higher handlebar position, so you can get the light where it is best suited without having a light that is mounted low down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly there is a weight penalty, a rotating mass problem, an electrical reliability problem and a 'keeping the bike clean' problem to go with the revolights, not to mention a small matter of expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, the lights are undoubtedly eye-catchingly cool, however they are a solution in search of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T17:18:26.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2011-09-11T17:39:38.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all comes down aerodymanics (less wind resistence) which is why recumbents were banned from the UCI.  Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recumbent_bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recumbent_bicycle&lt;/a&gt; for more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2380" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T17:39:38.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6028" CreationDate="2011-09-11T18:50:55.443" Score="8" ViewCount="4617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to start riding a bike from home to work so I need to buy a bike. I don't want to spend a lot on the bike and also I'm not interested in bikes that Target and Walmart sells. I want something cheap yet worth the money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern is my weight. I'm a heavy guy and I'm afraid of breaking the bike in just one week! I'm 186cm (6'1&quot;) tall and 117Kg (257 lbs). Is there any problem with bikes for a over weighted person like me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for &lt;strong&gt;road bike&lt;/strong&gt; that is priced between &lt;strong&gt;$300 to $500&lt;/strong&gt; that can handle my weight. I know for you bike lovers it's not enough to offer a good bike but unforgettably I can't spend more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I just give an example that is in my target price range:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked online and found the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington3_IX.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Windsor Wellington 3.0 on bikes direct&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDITED to make question more useful for other people. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xbEri.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Windsor Wellington 3.0 road bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2381" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-12-25T02:09:51.837" LastActivityDate="2017-12-25T02:09:51.837" Title="How to select an inexpensive road bike for a heavier rider?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;heavy&gt;&lt;clydesdale&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6006" CreationDate="2011-09-11T19:09:16.270" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, too much grease can pop chains, especially when shifting gears. When I first started biking seriously, I thought lots of grease was a good thing because it made the pedaling feel smooth. That was a bad idea. I got stranded in the middle of nowhere with my chain constantly slipping off so bad that the only choice was to ride the same gear or remove the grease. I used a spare cleaning cloth to wipe off most of it and it was fine the rest of the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1714" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T19:09:16.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6024" CreationDate="2011-09-11T19:25:27.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Congratulations on not wanting to settle for a department store bike, Murray Huffy etc... You've made the right choice :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for that particular bike, The specs don't seem all that spectacular. The &quot;retail $900&quot; price would not be very good, IMO, but the $400 sale price isn't bad. It looks like most of the parts are pretty low end, but that is to be expected around that price. (Generally entry-level road bikes end up around $750-ish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you considered a used bike? Craigslist is a great place to look. About a week ago I got a 2002 Trek 2300, which was a $1900 bike back in 2002, for $320 with some extra stuff. There was also recently a 2005 Giant OCR2 for $400. Craigslist is a great place to find a used bike, if you check it every day for a week or 2, something is bound to come up in that price range, and is likely to have superior parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to keep an eye on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikenashbar.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nashbar&lt;/a&gt;, they have bikes branded under their own name that are relatively less expensive than the bid-name guys, and they have sales constantly (their sales change about every week). Currently they have some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=10052&amp;amp;categoryId=203079&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10053&amp;amp;cm_re=Homepage-_-PB2-_-BikeCloseoutsNew&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bikes on closeout&lt;/a&gt; and a few are in that $400-$500 range that might suit you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have ridden and like the bike you posted, then by all means, go for it. Bikes are funny things, and sometimes one just &quot;speaks to you&quot;.  I'm just trying to suggest some other viable options, and picking one online without test riding it can be really tricky, since geometries vary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wouldn't worry too much about your weight.  The frame is sure to support you. The places on the bike that would typically be effected are the wheels, and sometimes the seat rails (where the seatpost clamps to the seat.  If possible, I would try to get a good seat, preferably with titanium rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck with whatever you decide to get!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T19:25:27.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6024" CreationDate="2011-09-11T19:26:32.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to tell. I'd suggest that for your weight you'd want somewhat wider tyres than the 23mm often used on racing bikes - at least 25mm. Unfortunately the spec for this doesn't tell you the width of the tyres, or of the rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="699" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T19:26:32.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6024" CreationDate="2011-09-11T19:47:38.157" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that you can buy lots of things online and that prices are competitive online, however, you do need to know exactly what you are buying, and, given that you have posted this question here, you might not be there yet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please visit your local bike shop, explain to the sales staff what you are looking for, what distance you are having to put in, whether that is going to be all on roads or on trails, whether you are going to be a fair weather cyclist and what you are going to need to carry. Also mention what sort of money you were looking to spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then let the shop show you 2-3 bikes that meet your criteria. See how the bike feels and, if they will let you, go on a short test ride. Ask about the brands pulled out the rack and why the shop sells them. Also, ask about how much the accessories will cost. You might need lights, you might need the tyres changed for the road and you might want a lock. Hi-viz clothing, a track pump and maybe a helmet also comes into the deal, you will be able to better negotiate a price if you include the accessories - a lot of bikes have a price that the shop (online or otherwise) has to sell at or else they lose the dealership rights, they cannot do a deal on that but they might be able to do a deal on the accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Customisations can work out better of buying from the shop as swapped out tyres can be put back into stock. The same with a seat and pedals (if you go clipless).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that your local bike shop have to compete with the online box shifters, they may not be able to do so on absolute price but they certainly can with service. They are easier to get to for a warranty return and they may well put a free service into the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shops also have cosmetically 'shop soiled' bikes that work absolutely fine but have incurred a scratch during their time in the showroom. You can negotiate a price on these, particularly if they are a 'last year's model'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Size is really important. Given that you are 6 foot+ you will be needing to look at the 'Large' size or maybe the 'X-Large' size. You can only determine which is best for you for a given brand if you go to the shop. Remember they might not have your size in your preferred model on the showroom floor, they may have one in the warehouse or be able to get one in for you in a matter of days. So, just because your preferred model is not there in your size, don't be put off - try the next model up if it is in your size and then try to order the model/size you do want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your weight, that should not be a problem. However, you will need to keep those tyres inflated to the value shown on the sidewalls if the wheels are to survive. The best way to keep tyre pressures good is with a track pump, these come with a gauge and only take a minute or two one a fortnight/month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After visiting the local bike shop and finding something you want, you can go online and get a better price. This mail order bike will come in a box and you will need tools and a spare weekend to get it right. If you order from the shop then they will do all that for you, usually to a higher standard than you can do yourself. Plus you will be saving postage. If the local bike shop accessories (e.g. lights) are bought with the bike then expect them to be fitted too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T19:47:38.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6019" CreationDate="2011-09-11T21:14:55.393" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe these are &quot;better&quot; or &quot;worse&quot; than other lights, rather they are a supplement to other lighting systems. I think the inventors' claims about forward and rear illumination are somewhat questionable as it won't compare to a real head/taillight of similar cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think they would provide some improvements in side and off-angle visibility. They are &quot;eye catching&quot; because they are distinct which is a very important factor to being noticed by other road users. There are actual lights which also provides superior visibility to any reflector-based solution available on the market today. Based on what they claim (and what is visible in the videos), these will provide nearly 360 degree visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6019/are-revolights-a-good-idea/6022#6022&quot;&gt;Mathew's answer&lt;/a&gt; makes some excellent points about weight and relative brightness. However, I disagree with his point about using a reflective materials as a potentially better solution. I have used many types of reflective materials ranging from reflectors to polished metals to &lt;a href=&quot;http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/GovernmentSolutions/Home/ProductInformation/Online_Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GO250IANS2O1A3I71_nid=0SNCHHF327beHH8S5G3WCCgl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M SOLAS&lt;/a&gt;-grade reflective tape. When you are within the &quot;optimal&quot; range of angles, they provide an incredibly bright surface for a long distance. However, when viewed from an off-angle or when the light is not directly shining on the reflective surface, their illumination characteristics are relatively poor--even when using a the high beams on a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many situations where a car's headlights are not illuminating the area the driver is looking (i.e. the driver is looking left or right) and the amount of light striking the reflective surface is minimal. Products like the revolights and the down-low glow tube are attempting to solve that type of problem--i.e. anywhere that reflective materials may not be reliable and your &quot;normal&quot; headlights won't provide adequate visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T21:14:55.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2011-09-11T21:33:32.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The three main advantages of a dedicated bike computer is battery life, reliability, and visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only a handful of smartphones I've used can consistently run for 5+ hours with the GPS on. It would really suck to be 30 miles from home with a dead battery. Cycling computers can often run 10+ hours with a GPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some smartphone/app combos have questionable reliability. App crashes or flakey background functionality can leave you with big gaps in your data logs. Not critical, but it's really annoying when you're you use the data as part of your training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cycling computers are easier to read in direct sunlight. Of course, most of them are also B&amp;amp;W screens so this is easier for them to solve. But regardless, when travelling at high speed, I want to be able to read my screen with only a momentary glance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are on shorter rides, commutes, etc where your ride time is shorter, then a cycling computer is probably a waste of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T21:33:32.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-09-11T22:08:07.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Boston, MA&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Hubway&amp;quot; is the equivalent to London's Boris bike here in Boston. They just showed up on the city streets this summer. I was also very surprised with how much of a success they are considering how heavy and clunky they look. Boston has a respectable number of bike riders and I was shocked to see more people riding these than personal bikes the first week after their arrival. My girlfriend does not own a bike and these made it possible for us to go on a bike ride around one of the parks here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based solely on my own unscientific observations, the vast majority of the riders appear to be tourists but apparently many have signed up for annual subscriptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious if/how they redistributed the bikes between stations. My girlfriend said that she saw them moving them with a van in the middle of the night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In just one month, Hubway signed up more than 2,300 annual subscribers...&#xA;36,000 folks took a one-day ride and if it keeps going like this, they’ll hit the 100,000 mark before the end of October. - &lt;a href=&quot;http://dailyfreepress.com/2011/09/07/police-stress-bike-safey-with-introduction-of-hubway/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CBS Boston&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Hubway currently has 61 stations and has added 600 bicycles to Boston neighborhoods. - &lt;a href=&quot;http://dailyfreepress.com/2011/09/07/police-stress-bike-safey-with-introduction-of-hubway/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Daily Free Press&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2382" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T22:28:31.050" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-11T22:08:07.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-12T05:41:40.573" Score="1" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work for a medium sized company (about 200 people). We have a small but reasonably active BUG (Bicycle Users Group). I've seen corporate cycling gear before and have some friends who can get corporate gear cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to propose to my company that they subsidise some corporate branded cycling gear, but I'm not sure how to pitch it. I've created a short survey on SurveyMonkey and know there is definitely some interest from my colleagues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my perspective, the pluses are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Employee satisfaction - getting a bit of a perk of the job&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corporate marketing/promotion - getting the company visible, especially in group rides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else should I emphasize in my pitch? Has anyone done this successfully and if so, how did you go about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T10:34:13.600" Title="How can I convince my company to sponsor corporate cycling gear?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-09-12T14:24:06.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6033" CreationDate="2011-09-12T08:00:54.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to do this is centre it around a competition that a contingent of your BUG is competing in.  That way you can pitch around the competition and the exposure.  Even if it is just a big social ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work out your team.  Work out the cost of the corporate uniforms.  Pitch based on the competition demographics (Hopefully it appeals to your company), also on the fact you have internal participants.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't have gear available for the whole company but this is the easiest starting point.  Then from there you can prove interest and say it is encouraging employee health.  Not sure where you are located but some companies jump on programs like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2011-09-12T10:34:13.600" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T10:34:13.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6033" CreationDate="2011-09-12T10:33:25.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a definite brand loyalty card to play too - it emphasises both that the company could have some visibility out there in the real world but also that its employees are so happy and proud to work for them that they're prepared to advertise this to fellow road users. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be prepared to rebutt some possible negatives, though, amongst many non-cyclists cyclists, especially in urban areas, don't always have the best reputation for obeying &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; traffic laws &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the time. Your employers or senior decision makers might not necessarily want to be associated with riders who jump red lights or buzz pedestrians on road crossings. Perhaps offer to have riders sign a good conduct promise for when they're wearing the shirt. Indeed, that could be a way of getting some local press (if it's a specifically local company) - highlighting being good citizens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T10:33:25.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6039" CreationDate="2011-09-12T11:41:18.260" Score="3" ViewCount="4154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of Shimano SPD-compatible shoes that have served me well and have a couple more years of good service in them.  But the shoelaces are about to disintegrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked online and at several stores for replacements, but can't find anything to match.  The existing laces are round and relatively soft, whereas most round laces one finds are either thin dress laces or heavy, stiff boot laces.  The boot laces don't tie as easily and don't stay tied nearly as well.  Besides, I like the look of the original Shimano laces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone found a source for the &quot;real thing&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T02:46:34.257" Title="Any source for Shimano shoelaces?" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5869" CreationDate="2011-09-12T14:03:30.510" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might have some luck with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/PanniersBagsRacks/Racks/PRD~5016-417/filzer-rear-seatpost-rack-pr-3.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seatpost mounted rack&lt;/a&gt;.  You may need to raise the seat up a bit on your bike to get it to fit since it seems that there isn't much clearance there.  However, these seatpost racks are not strong enough to support a child seat, and with a single point of failure I wouldn't even attempt it. But as a rack for your bike for carrying other things, this would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, the fact that you have rear suspension makes it difficult to attach a rack since usually racks require 2 attachment points, which is hard (impossible??) when the back of the frame needs to move due to suspension.  As far as baby seats go, you might want to opt for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FIH0EG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kangaroo child seat&lt;/a&gt; which has the seat located between you and the handlebars.  Again for this, it looks as though you would have to move your seat up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2011-09-12T14:28:27.103" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T14:28:27.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6037" CreationDate="2011-09-12T14:07:18.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that the exact laces are available under the Shimano brand, but the internet may prove me wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest thing I have found online is oval athletic laces like these: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNwsA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;oval athletic laces&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I replaced mine I found similar laces at a sporting goods store, but I've seen similar sport laces at some of the big box stores as well. If you google &quot;oval athletic laces&quot; you should find a large number of online sellers as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T02:46:34.257" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T02:46:34.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6042" CreationDate="2011-09-12T14:16:16.797" Score="2" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older CygoLite headlight that I used for commuting for a couple years.  It's been in storage for about 12 months, and now it seems like the battery won't take a charge.  I think its a variation of a NiCad battery, not lithium. The battery looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8yW2V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CygoLight Gel Battery&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to recondition a battery or do I just need to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note - I have plugged the light assembly into another similar battery and it works, so I know it's not the bulbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T16:37:54.463" Title="Can a headlight battery be reconditioned if it won't hold a charge?" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6040" CreationDate="2011-09-12T15:02:56.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The battery is probably shot but the battery pack can be rebuilt.  An outfit like &quot;Batteries Plus&quot; (in the US) can do it.  Or you can generally do it yourself if you're fairly clever (though getting it professionally rebuilt is better because they have the right spot welder, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It would be nice if the light mfgrs would use standard tool batteries rather than their own designs.  It would be fairly easy to build an adapter to hold one in a water bottle cage, eg, and then replacements would be readily available and you could use the tool charger.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-09-16T16:37:54.463" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T16:37:54.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6021" CreationDate="2011-09-12T20:35:28.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off... no I have not used the tool nor do I have a single speed/igh set up. I did look around some fixie boards and a lot of riders are using various brands of master links. Nobody admitted using something like the MLP-1, but that could just be attitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as one who does use a master link... I could see where it would be useful if you chain is a bit tight or you want to eliminate that one extra link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only issue I would see if you have the chain a bit too tight which might lead to faster wearing (i.e. stretching) and so you'd have to replace it sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short if you need the extra leverage then it's looks like a good purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1859" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T20:35:28.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6047" CreationDate="2011-09-12T20:50:00.117" Score="8" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beyond the chain, what other parts of the bike do I need to lubricate, and how?  Can anyone provide some guidance of how to get to the hubs, derailleurs, brake parts etc, that need occasionally lubrication?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T22:42:55.857" Title="Beyond the chain, what other parts of the bike do I need to lubricate, and how?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="101" CreationDate="2011-09-12T21:43:26.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment_casting#Details&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;advantages of investment casting&lt;/a&gt; are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excellent surface finish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High dimensional accuracy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extremely intricate parts are castable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost any metal can be cast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No flash or parting lines&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T21:43:26.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6021" CreationDate="2011-09-12T22:29:38.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Close as I can tell that tool helps you take apart the master link (if a SRAM style, at least), but does not really aid in assembly.  I've seen images of a different tool, a sort of vice, that gives you some slack for both disassembly and assembly (by grabbing the links adjacent to the master link or taken-apart standard link and holding them in alignment) that I would think would be a more useful tool.  But I don't offhand know where to get one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SRAM style master link can be disassembled with a pair of pliers if you hold your mouth (and the pliers) right.  The trick is to catch one plate with one jaw and the other plate with the other jaw, holding the pliers at an angle.  Works best with needle-nose pliers, but can work with regular ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T22:29:38.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6044" CreationDate="2011-09-12T22:42:55.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hubs, crank (if not a sealed cartridge), and headset bearings need lubrication perhaps every 10K miles, depending on severity of service.  Brake arms, brake levers, and shifter levers need an occasional squirt of spray lube.  Derailers also need to be sprayed with lube and wiped clean occasionally, or you can clean them up good with WD-40 before re-lubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bearing lubrication involves disassembling the item, washing the parts, and reassembling with new grease.  This is something that an competent tinkerer can manage, if one follows the directions on, say, the Park Tools website.  The tricky details are having the right tools for removing some parts (such as freewheels/clusters) and then reassembling everything with the right torque and tension -- something you want to learn on a $300 bike, not a $3000 bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T22:42:55.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="101" CreationDate="2011-09-12T22:52:38.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Investment casting has always been used for lugs and dropouts.  What happened is that bike manufacturers got away from using lugs about 20 years ago, when NC welders became available that could weld a frame quickly enough to not destroy the temper of high-quality chromoly or aluminum.  What you're seeing is really just a return to the old techniques, in a way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably also the development of computerized rapid prototyping systems to produce the patterns has made designing with investment castings more attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T22:52:38.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1980" CreationDate="2011-09-13T02:35:34.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the perfect way to get a very light bike without going bankrupt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T02:35:34.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6059" CreationDate="2011-09-13T02:40:28.950" Score="1" ViewCount="2848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to adjust the reach (distance from the drop bars to the brake levers) on my Ultegra 6510 levers.  The Shimano instructions don't mention the ability to adjust this at all, which seems odd to me, since even basically junk mountain bike levers are adjustable in this way. Is there a way to adjust this on these levers? Is it &quot;normal&quot; for road levers to not be reach adjustable, or is this just a Shimano thing? From searching around a bit, it looks like you can use &quot;Specialized Slim Shims.&quot; Is that the way people typically adjust the reach? Anyone have any better &quot;home-brew&quot; way to make them adjustable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastEditorUserId="1464" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T08:27:20.320" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T03:27:15.160" Title="Adjust reach on Ultegra ST-6510 levers?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6052" CreationDate="2011-09-13T02:49:39.623" Score="4" ViewCount="14801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if it is better to start to ride a fixie with a relatively low gear, and as experience comes, switch to a higher gear, or if the advised practice would be to start with a higher gear, and then perhaps change it to a lower gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you need to be strong to go uphill with a high gear, but you also need experience to go downhill fast with a low gear, so which would be considered more &quot;expert&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I am not planning to ride on a track, rather on open road with rolling terrain and possibility of hills (not extra-steep, I care about my knees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T14:55:14.967" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T07:25:39.417" Title="To learn fixed gear, better start with high gear and then get lower, or the opposite?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2011-09-13T05:18:32.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've surmised, optimizing a fixed gear for either uphill or downhill has its disadvantages.  If you're going to be riding a fixed gear on the street, you're likely best off starting with a medium gear. 70&quot; is pretty common, though you can go a bit higher if you're in a predominately flat region. For climbing, get used to bailing out from pedaling to walking when you lose your momentum. For descending, use a front brake to control your speed to a point where your cadence is still smooth and not throwing you all over the road.  With experience and training you'll be able to climb steeper and further before you walk and descend faster without having to lean on the brake as much.  If you want to work on those skills separately, consider a freewheel singlespeed bike, where you can dial in a lower climbing gear and still coast while descending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T05:18:32.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2011-09-13T05:22:24.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general I would recommend starting low. Your legs will go through an adjustment period and you may find that your knees get sore from a larger gear. After you've ridden for a few weeks pay attention to how you're riding. If you're in a hilly area are you struggling to get up the hills? Do you find that your cadence is regularly high enough that your hips are bouncing on the saddle? There are both indications that you should adjust your gearing high or low respectively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's can be cheaper to replace a track cog than a front chain ring so start with 16T in the back and then pick a chainring that gets you into the gear you're looking for. With any luck, if you do need to make an adjustment up or down switching the rear cog won't force you to change your chain length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T05:22:24.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6021" CreationDate="2011-09-13T05:28:40.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MLP-1 will definitely help you with master link disassembly. It's been much more useful for me than simple needlenose pliers.  If your chain has enough slack for the SRAM-style masterlink to disengage (only a few mm) you should be able to remove it easily using this tool or a similar one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doubtful that it will really help you with assembly, because if tension is high it'll be difficult for you to keep the loose ends of the chain lined up in the teeth of the jaws.  An alternate technique you might try is only partially wrapping the chain around the top half of the chainring during reinstallation. Once the chain is joined, pedaling forward slowly should be able to pull it the rest of the way onto the chainring. Use caution to avoid binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty much a given that trying to reinstall a chain while it is under tension is going to present more difficulty than not, so the best option might be to look at methods for optimizing rear wheel removal and cleaning the drivetrain while installed on the bicycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T05:28:40.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6021" CreationDate="2011-09-13T05:31:37.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a way to get the chain off without loosening the wheel then this won't help you. This tool require there to be enough slack in the chain to pull two links together. I'd say the links move about 5mm in order to break the link. I would recommend having this much slack in the chain normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want is a 3 piece master link that uses a c-clip to hold it together. These don't require any slack in the chain to disassemble. They seem to be more common for 1/8&quot; chains though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKHPg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of a 3-piece master link&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T05:31:37.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5745" CreationDate="2011-09-13T05:40:37.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cyclocross as my commuter, and a 26&quot; MTB bike.  I rode a loaned 29er for a mtb race this year, and while trying it out in the city, I noticed that I could hit the square curbs in the neighborhood and flow over them,  much better than the 26&quot; bike.  No need to hop the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this will be your only bike, go with the CX.  They are usually built with the CX racing in mind, which means running reasonable good when its crufty dirty.  Means that you can get away with less maintenance if necessary, compared to a pure road bike.  You can put skinny tires on it, and its a road bike.  The extra brake handles on top give you more positions for riding comfort.  I find that you can feel all the bumps in the pathways (like frost heaves and root bumps).  This could be because I have skinny tires at 120psi, and the carbon fiber fork does not absorb much of the bumps.  You can catch the front tire in wider cracks, and hitting a root at an angle can be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a road bike, and are looking for a second bike, go with the 29er.  The wider softer tires, combined with front suspension, makes most bumps disappear. The upright riding position is quite comfortable.  If the trails you want to ride have roots or rocks, the skinny tires on the CX require a skill level that you dont need to have on the 29er.  The wider tires take more energy to move and keep moving, and the tread will have higher rolling resistance, so it takes more energy to go the same distance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final test before you buy.  Borrow one from the LBS, and ride it on the trails you are interested in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2393" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T05:40:37.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2011-09-13T08:22:07.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which you choose will be affected by your physiology and the terrain that you'll mostly be using the machine on. If you've a smaller build, the more natural climber or the terrain is more hilly, you'll probably tend towards a lighter gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend towards the fast twitch end of the spectrum so I generally ride a heavier gear, but my terrain is pretty flat with only the occasional hill, so those two things match quite nicely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not sure, then I would suggest that you start light and get heavier - it's generally easier to spin your cadence up then to hammer your knees crunching along in a gear that's too low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is have two cogs on the same rear hub, with different rings on so you could start on something quite light and then switch it to something heavier, e.g assuming you've something like a 46 on the front, you might have an 18 on one side and a 17 (or 16) on the rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do think that you're likely to end up with a heavier gearing then you would probably want to go with a larger front cog, e.g. a 48. It's a lot easier to change the rear than the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With due respect to @lantius I wouldn't start with a single speed and gravitate to a fixed, they are quite a different experience. If you want to ride fixed, just ride fixed. (To be honest, I've never really seen the point of singlespeeds, but that's not really an answer to a question, just an opinion!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-09-15T18:19:41.190" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T18:19:41.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2011-09-13T10:40:11.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a normal derailleur geared bike you can use it to work out what gear would work out best for you if you only had one gear to use. Simply ride your commute in one gear without changing gear. Pedal on the downhills rather than coast and see if you can keep up. After this experiment is over you will know what size chainring and sprocket works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T10:40:11.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6050" CreationDate="2011-09-13T11:00:38.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Specialized shims are probably what you will end up using, however, before ordering them up, see if there is anything you can do by changing the location of the levers on your handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop handlebars can be adjusted in a multitude of ways. You can adjust the overall angle and slide the levers forwards or back to compensate for a change of bar angle, to keep the hood position where you are used to it being. Sometimes you can push the levers mounting position forwards/down, to interact differently with the curve of the bar to give a shorter reach. How exactly this works with your bike depends on how 'anatomical' or 'track style' your bars are. This will involve a lot of adjustment of bars, levers, cables and tape, but it is something you may want to investigate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively go with the Specialized shims or simply rely on the fact that you can always reach your brakes if the threat is scary enough and slacken them off a bit so that, once you have got the lever, you are not working it with your fingertips to effect useful braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T11:00:38.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6050" CreationDate="2011-09-13T11:28:01.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen brake levers that WERE adjustable (*), other than by sliding the unit up/down a drop bar, and that's probably not what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shims sound like your best bet, though I would think it's also possible to shim up at the bar/lever mount point, at the expense of affecting the brake hood fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After shimming (however you do it) be sure to check that the brakes don't drag and the levers don't &quot;bottom out&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) However, you might look and see if any of the sites specializing in women's bikes has something.  I checked the Terry site and didn't see anything, but I think there are a few other sites specializing in women's stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T11:28:01.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6068" CreationDate="2011-09-13T14:02:20.020" Score="2" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a bag to attach to my road bike that I can attach quickly without having a rack on my bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw one a few weeks ago (on someones bike) that attached to the seat post and extended backwards.  It mounted on the seat post with a screw-on clamp but the bag (and 95% of the weight associated with the bag) could be removed via a clip.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't need anything very large.  The bag I saw was just big enough for a t-shirt or your lunch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in finding the bag described above or another bag.  Here are my requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not require a rack as removing/adding a rack whenever I want to use my bike is too much of a pain in the ass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Big enough to hold a reasonable sized lunch (ie: t-shirt to sweatshirt sized).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy and fast to add/remove from bike (no tools)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compatible with down tube shifters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerodynamic as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T15:31:09.490" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T19:57:28.507" Title="Storage or bag on road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6064" CreationDate="2011-09-13T14:08:21.357" Score="3" ViewCount="1575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would really like to pickup a pair of bar end shifters but none of my local bike shops are able to get any for me.  My local bike dump laughed in my face when I asked them where I should/could find them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where online could I get some bar end shifters for a reasonable price?  (Bonus points for cheap shipping to/in Canada).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T18:14:55.467" Title="Where to buy bar end shifters" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2011-09-13T14:24:43.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to provide a little perspective, track bikes on velodrome run 81&quot; (=48x16) at a minimum. This is used as a &quot;warm-up&quot; gear ratio and is considered very light. After the warm-up the gears go into the 90's for specific work-outs or competition. Generally speaking, higher gear ratios are used for solo time-trial events like the flying 200m where riders wind-up and max-out at a particular cadence. Lower gears are used for points races where riders need to accelerate often and modulate their speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;81&quot; is borderline miserable on the road if there are any hills or stop-and-go traffic. Anything higher is not practical on the road unless you're a dare-devil and are willing to ride through intersections without stopping or have legs like the incredible hulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a utility bike set-up as a fixed and it is 40x16 (=67.5&quot;). This is low enough for hills and for trails but decidedly NOT a work-out bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good practical range for the street would be high-60's to high-70's depending on your terrain and what you're willing to push. If you're new to this I recommend a high-60's ratio and set it up so that the rear axle is near the front limit of the drop-out. You can then get smaller cogs and experiment with higher gear ratios as needed. Swapping out cogs should be easy with a little practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T14:39:39.867" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T14:39:39.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6062" CreationDate="2011-09-13T14:46:35.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first place I look for 'unusual' parts is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loosescrews.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Loose Screws&lt;/a&gt;. They have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?c=Shifter&amp;amp;sc=Road%20Shifters&amp;amp;tc=Index&amp;amp;id=379563220638&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ultegra and Dura Ace bar end shifters available&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second source is Rivendell Bicycle Works - They have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/products/list/shifters_and_derailers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;couple of different&lt;/a&gt; options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what you consider a reasonable price, but $100 US seems to be the ballpark for new shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally - you can always try eBay for used parts, but that is hit and miss for both quality and selection when dealing with more obscure parts like these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T14:46:35.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6037" CreationDate="2011-09-13T14:53:00.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've replaced my original round Shimano laces with flat laces, I found at my local shoe repair shop. I explained them, I need them for sports and they gave me special weather resistant laces. They last longer as the original laces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The round laces I found, loosened the knot too fast. And also didn't last long enough. The flat laces keep the knot good, and don't make a big knot so they are comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T14:53:00.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6061" CreationDate="2011-09-13T15:15:20.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of companies I would look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://carouseldesignworks.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carousel Design Works&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.revelatedesigns.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Revelate Designs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think their seatbag products all attach with straps, not clips. It's hard for me to imagine a seatbag that would be incompatible with downtube shifters. The bag you saw might have been from &lt;a href=&quot;http://topeak.com/products/Bags&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak&lt;/a&gt; -- some of their bags have a snap-on design. Nothing wrong with their stuff either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T15:15:20.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-13T15:50:24.930" Score="9" ViewCount="7720" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you recommend as an optimal point and orientation for mounting a rear-view mirror? I'm open to handlebar-, glasses-, or helmet-mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the considerations, as I understand it, are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of mounting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;View provided.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vibration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Likelihood of breaking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Robustness for repeated off and on (for glasses-mounted).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a hybrid bike with flat handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also welcome specific product recommendations and recommendations about other aspects to look for in a mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2368" LastEditorUserId="2368" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T15:59:25.103" LastActivityDate="2021-04-29T05:02:43.443" Title="Where should I mount a mirror?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;mirrors&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6061" CreationDate="2011-09-13T15:54:50.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many saddlebags work with the German KLICKfix system. The KLICKfix system is a series of brackets including one that goes under the seat and another that goes on the seatpost. In my experience the one that goes on the seat rails is more durable and less wobbly. It also seems to be the one preferred by manufacturers of bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One interesting option are the bags made by Blackburn. They have a lifetime warranty on them - a quirk of the Blackburn company. Get one and it won't be throwaway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one they do for the Klickfix bracket, the Zayante large. It has an expanding main compartment, little pocket for valuables, loop for putting the light on, reflective trim and so on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ity6J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the KLICKfix 'Contour' model with the other bracket type. This one is supposed to be aero:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqMWy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you go to one of your better local bike shops and specifically look for bags with the KLICKfix adaptor, regardless of brand, they should have some. Ordering online can be tricky as you need to see the product first to see if you will be able to get your coat, tools and whatever else in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In former times (50 years ago) panniers were the rarity and saddlebags were the norm. I am a proud owner of an extremely retro saddlebag and I use it in preference to panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4xFY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe such bags are bigger than your current requirements, however, I mention that for others finding this question. There are smaller 'real saddlebags' and there are also brackets to go with them if you don't have saddlebag loops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another 'out there' solution you might want to look into is a handlebar-bag mounted behind the seat. Klickfix adaptors are available for the handlebar or the seatpost and you can put both brackets on if you want for marginal weight penalty. When you want to do a bit of map reading, eating, using the camera and so on, you can put the bag on the front, when you want lighter steering and better aero then you can put it on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think bike bags are a truly international product area, so the UK tip of 'Altura + Klickfix' probably is not what you would want to look for in the U.S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, the German 'Klickfix' brackets are brilliant, easy to use, well constructed and used by many different bag manufacturers. The under-seat bracket for 'saddle stuffer' bags is very good, for your requirements I would suggest having a look at what bags you can get that use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T19:16:36.467" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T19:16:36.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2011-09-13T16:13:25.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5927/why-should-i-use-a-mirror/5937#5937&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, I use a helmet mounted mirror. I get a good field of view behind me and have gotten used to using a quick side-to-side glance to see everything behind me. The mirror has a mount that adheres to my helmet, and the mirror arm snaps on and off for travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a handlebar-mounted mirror prior to that. I found that I couldn't really see all that much behind me and couldn't see laterally very well (because it was attached to the handlebars). This was on a road bike where I generally ride on straight, flat ground. But I imagine the problem would be worse on a mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T16:13:25.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6062" CreationDate="2011-09-13T16:13:43.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The local bike shop sometimes need a bit of help when you get a 'newbie' member of staff. Shimano still make bar end shifters, if you provide the LBS with the part number then they can get them very quickly for you from the people that supply them with all the other Shimano stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dura-Ace SL-BS77 - 8/9 speed&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dura-Ace SL-BS77 - 10 speed&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ultegra SL-BS64 - 8 speed&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;SRAM TT900 - 10 speed&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo (Various) - 10/11 speed, designed for triathlon aero bars&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Other TT specific shifters that are not necessarily indexed&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T16:13:43.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6080" CreationDate="2011-09-13T16:21:57.310" Score="11" ViewCount="7949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to find a way to store my bike vertically parallel to the wall. However my ceilings are quite high so it would be difficult to lift it onto a ceiling mounted hook everyday. Is there anyway to have the hook extend further down or better yet a wall mounted solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T12:18:12.290" Title="Bicycle Storage Indoors" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6071" CreationDate="2011-09-13T16:56:06.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many such solutions available. You can purchase hooks that mount onto the wall and will hold a bike by its front wheel. If you wanted to use one of these, you'd need to attach something to the wall itself first to hang it off of, building up a structure with 2x4's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deltacycle.com/Leonardo-Single-Bike-Storage-Hook&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's an example&lt;/a&gt; of a wall-mounted hook. I've seen these for sale in many places, even in hardware stores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; ceiling-mounted bicycle holders that are built for high ceilings. These have a pulley system where you can lower the hooks to attach to the bicycle without lifting it at all, then pull the bike back up the ceiling. (In my experience, these racks are excellent for long-term storage, but they make it more of a hassle to get to the bike.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T17:44:27.443" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T17:44:27.443" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6071" CreationDate="2011-09-13T16:56:50.563" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things I've done in the past are to screw a hook like this into the wall:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/exwgp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hook&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a little above the height of the front wheel hub when the bike is standing up, so I could just hook the front wheel to the wall, basically. In my case the hook is high enough up that the back tire of the bike is just off the ground, and is actually touching the wall, not the floor. The bike can be rotated on the hook to make it more parallel with the wall, up to the point where the pedal or the handlebar hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;edit:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK I guess my hooks in my shed are actually on the angled part of the roof, but in this picture I redrew where the hook &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be, and then the back tire would rest on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ogiJD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also mounted a fork-mount to the wall and used that, but it means taking off the front wheel each time. It also makes the bike perpendicular to the wall, not parallel, unless you mount it to the side of a shelf or some piece of wood that comes away from the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QsDjx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my bike in the garage off the end of a shelf, parallel to the garage wall:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GtXYf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastEditorUserId="2334" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T00:03:41.790" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T00:03:41.790" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-13T16:57:07.390" Score="6" ViewCount="2520" Body="&lt;p&gt;What am I getting out of a $55 chainring vs a $25 one? Are more-expensive ones longer-lasting, or more lightweight, ...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for a $700 single-speed, to give you an idea of quality of bike I'm currently using (e.g. Not some $3000 professional racer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2397" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T22:04:41.497" Title="Chainring: cheap vs expensive" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2011-09-13T17:16:18.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mirror is a great addition to a cyclist's toolkit. While all cyclists should be able to look around behind them without one, a mirror lets you do this more often and safely. And a mirror is no substitute for looking behind you anyway. Here's a summary of the kinds of mirrors I've used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glasses-mounted mirrors&lt;/strong&gt; like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/752285/bike-peddler-take-a-look-mirror&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;take-a-look mirror&lt;/a&gt; are great for giving you a wide, easily adjustable field of view. Pivoting your head means you can &quot;sweep&quot; the area behind you, and the mirror is close to your eye so it's a fairly wide field of view. However, they're only usable if you wear glasses or goggles, and some mirrors won't mount to some glasses, particularly glasses with thicker temples like some non-prescription sunglasses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that the take-a-look is a great mirror, but it tends to pull my glasses off just a bit over time. Adjusting it is merely an annoyance that I've decided to live with, since the mirror is otherwise excellent. (My glasses are also extremely light, and this would happen with any mirror, although the take-a-look &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; fairly heavy for a mirror.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upside: Great field of view, keeps the mirror off the bike. Inexpensive. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Downside: A little more finicky to adjust than bar-mounted mirrors, easy to forget. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't wear glasses, or prefer not to put a mirror there, you can get a &lt;strong&gt;helmet-mounted mirror&lt;/strong&gt; instead. Most of these attach to your helmet with adhesive pads. The only one I've had that I cared for attached to a helmet's visor that was designed to accept it. Look at helmets specifically for commuters if you want one of these, I loved it but had to get rid of it when I replaced the helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upside: The mirror is always there. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Downsides: More vibration, smaller mirror, and you're locked into that helmet if you want to keep the mirror. Harder to adjust than any other kind of mirror, since your head is always moving and your helmet moves a bit on your head - unless your helmet is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; tight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handlebar-mounted mirrors&lt;/strong&gt; are generally larger in area and have a curved surface. (Think &quot;objects in mirror are closet than they appear&quot;.) The ones meant for drop bars usually mount with velcro or another attachment system, and the ones for flat bars will generally be screwed onto the side of the bars. I've never found one I liked for drop bars, but the flat-bar mirrors work quite well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upside: The mirror is always there, and the permanently mounted ones are easier to adjust than any other system. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Downside: A little clunky, they make your bike wider (an issue if you need to take your bike on the train or if you have a folding bike), and you need to look down to see it, taking your eyes off the road. Can be snapped off if the bike falls or grazes a wall. (Some are advertised as &quot;folding on impact&quot;, though.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommendations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside of the ubiquitous take-a-look mirror, it's difficult to give specific product recommendations. But there are only a few kinds of mirror available, and even the most expensive mirrors are still fairy cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd avoid plastic eyeglass-mounted mirrors, as they tend to break. But a good eyeglass mirror will give you the best rear visibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to avoid eyeglass mirrors: In your situation, with flat bars, I recommend a mirror that screws into the sides of the bars. You can put on one or two mirrors, depending on your situation. For example, in countries where you ride on the right, a single mirror on the left side of your bar will cover almost all situations. Having a second one on the right is nice, as it covers your &quot;blind spot&quot;, I consider it a luxury. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, everybody has different preferences with mirrors. You really need to try a few different kinds and brands and see what you prefer. There is a silver lining, though; many cyclists have unused mirrors. Chat up some cyclists if you have a club or friends who cycle, and someone will likely offer to lend you a mirror of give it to you outright. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T17:33:28.117" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T17:33:28.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6074" CreationDate="2011-09-13T17:29:58.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get what you pay for. Cost is going to be dependent on materials, engineering, etc. If you buy a cheap chain ring it may work pretty well if you don't demand a lot out of it. A more expensive chain ring will be made of better materials (will wear longer and be lighter) and be better engineered (usually an issue for shifting; not so much for a fixie).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to parts or tools I am usually dead set against buying &quot;cheap&quot; since you're not just paying for the materials and engineering but also the service and reputation. If you can get a decent part from a reputable place by all means go for it, but don't buy the cheapest part you can from some shady on-line guy and expect to be able to get any help when the mounting holes don't line up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T17:29:58.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6062" CreationDate="2011-09-13T18:14:55.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.probikekit.com/us/components/bicycle-gear-levers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ProBikeKit&lt;/a&gt; has Shimano and Campy barcons and free shipping. The barcons they have are not cheap. So it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rivendell (op cit) also sells adaptors that let you mount downtube shifters as barcons. This might let you frankenbike something together more cheaply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T18:14:55.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6083" CreationDate="2011-09-13T19:17:56.823" Score="6" ViewCount="752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a new bike that I intend to tow my Burley trailer. I've always used a standard hitch before but this will not fit on this bike because of the way the rear drop out is made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gather my options are the alternative hitch and the classic hitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative hitch looks ideal.  However, I can't appear to get hold of one in the UK.  It looks like it might be discontinued.  Does anyone know if that is the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the classic hitch, I'm reasonably convinced that it will fit. However, I'm unsure how quick and easy it will be to disconnect and connect the trailer. My daily routine, storage space etc. means that I need to do this once a day.  So my question concerning the classic hitch is, how long does it take to remove and reconnect the trailer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="810" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T14:45:44.943" Title="Burley trailer hitch, classic or alternative?" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6074" CreationDate="2011-09-13T19:31:25.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally like to buy the OEM parts, unless I'm consciously &quot;moving up&quot; to something of better quality.  Something like a chainring is generally &quot;tuned&quot; to the style of derailer, etc, originally supplied on the bike, and changing the type of ring (without due consideration) could lead to poorer shifting or other problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I say this even though I don't especially like the monopoly control that Shimano has over the bike industry, and the above rule makes me tend to go back and buy more Shimano parts.  I just kind of grit my teeth and do it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T19:31:25.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6071" CreationDate="2011-09-13T19:33:20.980" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by &quot;parallel to the wall&quot; you mean in the same direction as it would sit if it were leaning against the wall then you would probably do well with a rack like I bought when I moved into an apartment last year:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQqhY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Delta Michelangelo Rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deltacycle.com/Michelangelo-2-Bike-Gravity-Storage-Rack&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Delta Michelangelo Rack&lt;/a&gt; holds two bikes, requires only a single small screw hole in the wall to anchor, and does a good job of holding the bikes out of the way.  List is about $80 but I found mine on sale for around $55.  It also has a few clips/hangers for things like helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have the pulley system recommended by @neil-fein,  but I find that if the bike is on the pulley, I rarely get it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T19:33:20.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2011-09-13T19:49:03.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, I've tried them all, and keep coming back to the helmet mirror.  An eyeglass mount is less stable and doesn't project out from the head as far, so it's hard to see around a bulky helmet (and it seems all helmets these days are bulky).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried handlebar mirrors of several varieties, but on my touring bike with drop bars no mirror I've tried is able to see around a set of panniers.  Plus you don't get as good a field of view with the handlebar mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the closer the mirror is to your head the wider your field of view (for a given size mirror).  And a head-mounted (helmet or glasses) mirror has the advantage that you can rotate your head up/down and left/right to see something not immediately in your field of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main down-side of a helmet mirror is its relative fragility.  I've most recently (for maybe 5 years) used a Third Eye helmet mirror that attaches to the helmet with an adhesive Velcro pad.  It's never gotten knocked off or broken, but it does get knocked out of alignment just about daily.  And I have to be fairly careful when I lay my helmet down to not damage the mirror.  I'm sure that there are some newer models that are better, but they all have this fundamental problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T19:49:03.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6061" CreationDate="2011-09-13T19:51:57.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy the seat-post-mounted mini-racks from a number of sources, and, once you have one of those, any small bag can be attached with bungies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is a bag that straps to the rails under the seat.  Most often these are used for tools, but some of larger ones (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/CartGenie/prod-39.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Ortleib bag&lt;/a&gt;) may suit your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T19:57:28.507" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T19:57:28.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6078" CreationDate="2011-09-13T21:21:42.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had one of these that had, at the end of the towing arm from the trailer, a moulded plastic part that fit in the angle between the seat stay and chain stay tubes, it then had a hinged part that was tightened down onto the seat stay. It only took 30 seconds to fit or remove. Having said all this I do not know if this it the 'classic' or 'alternative' system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2293" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T21:21:42.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6071" CreationDate="2011-09-13T21:52:26.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend that you take a good look at the Park Tools workstands. They are designed to support a single bike securely with grips that are easy enough to setup and release. Prices may be more than a DiY 'bit of wood' sticking out the wall, however, the workstand will have extra value for when you want to work on the bike. Plus, a Park Tool stand looks good, even if not in the workshop and in your front room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few models that may be suited to your application:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/deluxe-wall-mount-repair-stand-prs-4w-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/deluxe-wall-mount-repair-stand-prs-4w-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qbrJH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly you will need a big bolt or two going through the wall to use the PRS-4W-1 or it's somewhat more deluxe cousin. The bike will be clamped 37cm from the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/team-issue-repair-stand-prs-25&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/team-issue-repair-stand-prs-25&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mQpY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PRS-25 is a super-deluxe portable stand that packs away nicely. It has cheaper, more affordable cousins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/deluxe-home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-4-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/deluxe-home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-4-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U3qNo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PCS-4-1 Home repair stand does pack away neatly, but it is a bit heavier than the portable stand. The head twizzles around 360 degrees so you can put your bike on there, do up the clamp and spin it round to the vertical position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the Park Tool stands you can upgrade the clamps and get spare bits for them. They will not damage your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for getting one, try your local bike shop. They will probably only make a token effort at stocking repair stands, however, you can special order the desired model in after looking at what they have got. Postage on workstands can be significant, you won't have to pay that if ordering from your local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the idea of a workstand takes you, take a trip to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other makes of workstand will not be as iconic as the Park Tool offerings, neither are they likely to have replacement heads, however, price matters at times and you will almost certainly be able to find cheaper workstands with some hunting around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T21:52:26.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6074" CreationDate="2011-09-13T22:04:41.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If price is your prime consideration you may want to pay a visit to your local bike shop. Spare chainrings are not a hot seller and there may be a chance that your local shop can do you a deal on a ring that has not sold or had any interest from customers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a single speed I don't think top quality is your prime consideration from the chainring. You have two material choices - steel or aluminium. The steel ones come in cheap and expensive 'ultra durable' flavours. We all know that steel (whether stainless or not) is heavier than aluminium (not that it amounts to a lot of difference on a chainring), so take a look at the aluminium offerings. Remember that you can flip a worn chainring over in some cases, to get twice the wear out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going the local bike shop route, make sure you know what BCD means. You want the holes to match up to your crank spider, and for there to be the correct quantity of holes. You also want to make sure there is no wow and flutter. Surface scratches can be easily removed (except on black anodized rings) so have a root around in your LBS and ask what they have knocking around in the workshop if getting a deal is of your prime concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T22:04:41.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6078" CreationDate="2011-09-13T22:09:39.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the complete list of Burley spares:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.extrauk.co.uk/downloads/8c7cd0bd823a312e718625ce27335ef7421e6b72/2010_Burley_Spares&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.extrauk.co.uk/downloads/8c7cd0bd823a312e718625ce27335ef7421e6b72/2010_Burley_Spares&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the the UK distributor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.extrauk.co.uk/product/list/Burley/Trailer_Spares/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.extrauk.co.uk/product/list/Burley/Trailer_Spares/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get in touch with them asking if they have the part available. Or ask your bike shop if they 'deal with Extra' and ask them to phone up for you to see if part x-y-z is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T22:09:39.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6092" CreationDate="2011-09-13T22:26:06.207" Score="11" ViewCount="2755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just turned 40 and despite running many marathons in my younger days I'm finding it hard to get fitter again after too many years at a desk. I have a reasonable racing bike which I use for my 60 minute commute occasionally (45 minutes to work, 75 home) but wondering what a good set of exercises might be to increase my speed and stamina.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commute is about 16 miles on reasonable roads, with about 4 miles being in the city, and an altitude difference along the run of about 150m with home being at the higher end, so I guess the specifics of my question are around whether I should try alternating sprints and coasting frequently, or whether I should focus on a single pace for the entire journey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T00:12:53.770" Title="What are the most effective exercises to improve stamina and speed on my cycle to/from work?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6094" CreationDate="2011-09-13T22:50:02.910" Score="14" ViewCount="55072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see triathlon bikes with various different spoke styles, from normal wire to aerodynamically shaped blades to completely solid wheels, but I can't understand why there should be so many styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can understand needing less spokes on an indoor track, as you won't get bumps, so I'm okay with that, but can anyone shed light on the decisions behind the other styles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2120/2077&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; on flat spokes but that wouldn't explain the wing like spokes or the solid wheels, would it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2021-05-25T18:55:32.230" Title="What are the advantages or disadvantages of different spoke styles" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6087" CreationDate="2011-09-13T22:54:31.243" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's nothing bad about maintaining a steady pace but at some point you'll want to increase that pace. For a while you will be able to improve significantly by just informally &quot;trying harder&quot; and getting more skilled with the bike. After a while, however, you will plateau and it will seem like it is impossible to get much faster and you'll wonder how people on mapmyride (for example) can do the same route at unbelievable average speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it is possible to get much faster! And the most effective way to do it is with some type of regular interval training. This same concept applies to all endurance sports. The idea is that you have to push your exertion to at or above your lactate threshold to stimulate improvement. It is the aerobic analogy to lifting weights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not going to attempt to lay out a program, but roughly it is going to be a series of efforts that last a couple of minutes with a few minutes of rest inbetween. During those intervals you really have to max out to get the benefit of the workout. A &quot;real&quot; interval workout is HARD and draining. It is not something that you'll want to do everyday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, just riding with fast group will do the same (albeit in a longer time) as guys tend to naturally compete and &quot;put the hammer down&quot; at every opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T22:54:31.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5927" CreationDate="2011-09-13T23:13:09.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've spent at least 15 years riding in the city without a mirror and bought a simple helmet mounted convex one last year.  While at first it seemed completely redundant and hard to use, I find it quite handy now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It definitely takes some practice to position the mirror so that you can quickly glance at it, focus your eyes and turn your head a little to &quot;pan&quot; around to see what's behind you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I've had so much experience without it, I also found that I could hear cars and judge their position sooner and more easily than using the mirror. This probably would not be the case for a beginner rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it is very handy is for avoiding being surprised by approaching cyclists and judging their intentions since they are largely silent, and even the ones that call out a signal may do so late or mumble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I actually find it pretty useless on the streets, but on bike paths it's quite handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really can't hurt to have it there (though it can be an annoying source of reflections when the sun is low), and if it helps just once it's probably worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="276" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T23:13:09.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6088" CreationDate="2011-09-14T00:22:13.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#spokes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Double-butted&lt;/strong&gt; spokes are thicker at the ends than in the middle.&#xA;  The most popular diameters are 2.0/1.8/2.0 mm (also known as 14/15&#xA;  gauge) and 1.8/1.6/1.8 (15/16 gauge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Double-butted spokes do more than save weight. The thick ends make&#xA;  them as strong in the highly-stressed areas as straight-gauge spokes&#xA;  of the same thickness, but the thinner middle sections make the spokes&#xA;  effectively more elastic, allowing them to stretch (temporarily) more&#xA;  than thicker spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a result, when the wheel is subjected to sharp localized stresses,&#xA;  the most heavily-stressed spokes can elongate enough to shift some of&#xA;  the stress to adjoining spokes. This is particularly desirable when&#xA;  the limiting factor is how much stress the rim can withstand without&#xA;  cracking around the spoke holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Triple-butted&lt;/strong&gt; spokes, such as the DT Alpine III, are the best&#xA;  choice when durability and reliability is the primary aim, as with&#xA;  tandems and bicycles for loaded touring. They share the advantages of&#xA;  single-butted and double-butted spokes. The DT Alpine III, for&#xA;  instance, is 2.34 mm (13 gauge) at the head, 1.8 mm (15 gauge) in the&#xA;  middle, and 2.0 mm (14 gauge) at the threaded end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Single- and triple-butted spokes solve one of the great problems of&#xA;  wheel design: Since spokes use rolled, not cut threads, the outside&#xA;  diameter of the threads is larger than the base diameter of the spoke&#xA;  wire. Since the holes in the hub flanges must be large enough for the&#xA;  threads to fit through, the holes, in turn, are larger than the wire&#xA;  requires. This is undesirable, because a tight match between the spoke&#xA;  diameter at the elbow and the diameter of the flange hole is crucial&#xA;  to resisting fatigue-related breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since single- and triple-butted spokes are thicker at the head end&#xA;  than at the thread end, they may be used with hubs that have holes&#xA;  just large enough to pass the thick wire at the head end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aero (elliptical)&lt;/strong&gt; spokes are a variety of double-butted spoke in&#xA;  which the thin part is swaged into an elliptical cross section, making&#xA;  these spokes a bit more ærodynamic than round-section spokes. The most&#xA;  widely available spokes of this type are the Wheelsmith Æro. These are&#xA;  2.2 x 1.8 mm at the ends, and the middles are equivalent to 16 gauge,&#xA;  but in the form of a 1.8 x 1.2 mm ellipse. The Wheelsmith Æro is my&#xA;  favorite spoke for high-performance applications, not just because of&#xA;  whatever ærodynamic advantage it may offer, but because the flat&#xA;  center section provides an excellent visual indicator to help the&#xA;  wheelbuilder eliminate any residual twist in the spoke. This helps&#xA;  build a wheel that will stay true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aero (bladed)&lt;/strong&gt; spokes have a more pronounced aero shape, flat,&#xA;  rather than elliptical. Although they are the most aerodynamic of&#xA;  spokes, they won't normally fit through the holes in a standard hub&#xA;  because they are too wide. To use &quot;blades&quot;, the hub must be slotted&#xA;  with a file. Slotting the holes can weaken the flange, and will&#xA;  usually void the warranty of the hub. It is also a lot of trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, &quot;aero&quot; spokes should be more aerodynamic, however if you think about stressing the spoke, it would be more stiff in the direction the wheel is rotating because it is thicker, and have more flex perpendicular to that, since the spoke is thin or flat on the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have double-butted spokes on my cross-country mountain bike, and raced on them for years without untruing the wheels, and it saves a small amount of weight per spoke but its at a point where the spoke isn't heavily stressed, so it retains most of its strength. Especially good for lighter weight riders on full suspension bikes where the wheels won't be subjected to as much of a beating in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T00:22:13.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6087" CreationDate="2011-09-14T00:36:46.593" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your problem is that you are not commuting daily. Clearly this is not possible if you have to be out and about off site, meeting clients and attending other events, however, you should aim to commute by bike every day, come rain or shine. Ice and snow should not really put you off and even not riding in fog because it is 'dangerous' is a little bit light-weight! You have got to be doing it every day to get to and maintain the speed you need to do it every day. Take a few days out and what once seemed heroically-manageable suddenly seems like hard work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting in a good time regardless of what goes on en-route should be highlight of the day, twice over. It should not need to feel like it is a chore. Fitness is not the be-all and end-all of setting a good time, you need to think that every second counts and ride that way. That begins from the off, some people can just leap on a bike and go, others take a mystery ten seconds just mounting the bike for some reason. &#xA;Become a meticulous time keeper. Be at your desk with coffee and logins already done by 9, don't be one of those cyclist that materializes some time after nine and spends until 10 showering, putting together a 'I am more athletic than you' breakfast and so on. Arrive on time and you can 'fairly' leave on time, taking any 'must do' work home with you. By leaving at the same time you can 'race yourself home' rather than trudge home to have half your evening already gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use check-points. When cycling in it can be easy to go into a 'world of your own' and not really be focused on setting a good time. If there are any clocks along the way on public buildings expect to see certain times on them and, if you are running late on one checkpoint, put in a bit of an effort to make it to the next checkpoint on time. Obviously you can use a watch or speedometer for timing your checkpoints, but I personally like seeking out clocks, no matter how distant they are and using them for my en-route time keeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every second counts, and that is all the way. Really your route through town is all about clearing obstacles that are different in same-but-different ways every day. Be observant of other riders and what they do to be quicker than you in situations. Jumping lights may not be your thing, however, making a good getaway just as the lights change really does save all important seconds. Learn the light cycles on your route and pre-empt each of them, to lay down the speed or not depending on what you can tell from having a good look ahead. This stuff really falls under the category of being the tortoise instead of the hare. Don't miss easy-win opportunities to get ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride assertively, but not aggressively. Conflabs with motorists do not help your time. They are not a-holes, they are fellow road users that you form an on-road community with. Take up as much road as you need and use the lanes they use to make turns etc. Politely wave to them if they hoot at you because they think the outer lane is for them and not cyclists making a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take aero seriously. That billowing coat might be nice to have on but it is taking scores of seconds out of your time. If it is cold when you first leave the door just shove a plastic bag down your jersey to keep the breeze off your chest. You can pull it out five minutes in to your ride when you can handle the chill. Bags are another aero consideration. Check out the recently posted 'seat bag' question for some tips on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful about your bike. Tyres pumped 'hard enough' are not the same as tyres pumped with a track pump. Have the brakes and gears working properly so you can get away without any un-wanted clunks and stop a bit better than a panamax supertanker. Keep the bike as well serviced as a soldier maintains his gun and it will save you those seconds. That carbon-fibre wannabee bike won't help, work with what you have got, keep it maintained and correctly adjusted for you. The only go-faster accessory that really will help are pedals, of the clipless variety, with shoes to go with. MTB SPD are what you want for the commute, not 'roadie' ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the 'basics' of setting a good time on the commute, now onto your actual question. Your extra exercises to improve stamina and strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because a bike has gears there really is not a lot of strength needed. Cycling is an aerobic exercise and higher cadence matters more than out and out strength for the ride you are doing. Remember that muscle weighs and any extra muscle has to be dragged along for when it might be needed, which will not be most of the time. That said, strength matters when pulling away from the lights or pushing up a hill. But that level of strength will come to you if you put in the miles. The same can be said for stamina. Yes you can get a trainer rig setup in the living room for your bike, or go to the gym or go for a swim, however, you are putting in a quality distance in on the bike and there should be no need for any extra-curricular extras. Just ride every day if you can and it will come to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you have a lovely partner and you don't have to lift anything more than a fork at din-dins time. At lunch and snack times you may think 'well, I am burning off x thousand calories a week, I can eat what I like'. You may also eat 'healthy' pre-prepared sandwiches from the supermarket near to your work or indulge in a sausage roll from the local bakery or pick up a small cake selection mid-ride. It is all too easy to go for quantity rather than quality. But, for maximum vitality you do need to look at everything you eat and see if you can do much, much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This need not be a miserable process such as what dieters put themselves through. You can up your vegetable and fruit intake, try new recipes and revitalise your passion for food to eat better stuff that is a pleasure to indulge in. Get your main meal right and you won't need to see a chocolate bar, packet of crisps, bottle of pop or other junk-food-ready-eat ever again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One top tip for yourself and any other male reader wanting ideas is to get a bread making machine. You tip the ingredients in, set the timer and get a lovely loaf out, no washing up involved. In one stroke you are getting better bread than anything you can buy in the shops and you can start taking in your own sandwiches packed to the gills with goodness. The flour in your bread can be the good stuff that does not need all of the E numbers to keep it presentable. You can also add some mixed fruit, a couple of eggs and a spoonful of honey to your basic bread mix to make yourself the yummiest ever luxury-ready-eat item, knowing that nothing in it is anything but 100% good for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of top athletes have gone 100% vegetarian, the world's best sprinter Mark Cavendish is probably the prime example, so consider following his example to get your cycling form to what it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not take any money to become a cycling foodie, just an interest in doing better with your own chopping board, vegetable steamer, oven and bread machine than anything you can get ready made. Even that evil pizza can be a gourmet-healthy meal item with a DiY bread machine attitude. And no, it does not take longer to do food properly and even if it does the enjoyment is so worth it. You will make up a lot more time than time spent cooking by having better energy levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took me a long time to find out how important the cycling food thing is, I lived many years under the illusion that it was calories that mattered, but, for me, it was actually only when I bucked up my ideas about cooking and food that I discovered how wrong I was. To then take over in the kitchen and try new recipes took some confidence, but you do need to be in control of what you eat if you are taking your diet and shape seriously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarise, you have a splendid route that could be abbreviated with some on-bike time management improvements. You need to be going every day even if that kills you. It will come to you effortlessly after a sustained month of doing it every working day. Then there is the matter of diet, garbage in, garbage out. Up your eating game and you will notice benefits on the bike. I am sure a lot of the above is what you know already from doing running, but, you are on the right track and it will come to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T00:36:46.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6088" CreationDate="2011-09-14T00:53:24.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This comes down to aerodynamics, reliability, and cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wheel with many lightweight spokes will be reliable and remain relatively rideable even if one spoke breaks. But all those spokes are like an eggbeater in the wind: not aerodynamic. So wheels like this are mostly used by heavier riders or in touring, where durability trumps speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wheel with fewer spokes puts more load on each of those spokes, and can't tolerate any of them breaking. Also, both to make up for the lower spoke count &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; because the whole point of reducing spoke count is to improve aerodynamics, these wheels usually have deep-section rims with a teardrop cross-section. These increase the wheel's strength (at the cost of weight), and improve its aerodynamics by replacing what would be the fastest-moving parts of the spokes (at the tips) with solid aerodynamically-shaped rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trispoke or disc wheel is the next logical step. These are much more expensive to fabricate, and discs especially are problematic in crosswinds. They also tend to be heavy, making them inappropriate for some kinds of racing, but not so much triathlons, which are about steady effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bladed spokes are marginally more aerodynamic than round spokes. At the very high end, there are some wheels that use fettucini-like strips of carbon fiber in place of steel spokes—these may cost as much as a very nice bike themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T00:53:24.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6088" CreationDate="2011-09-14T01:22:15.120" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, there are various types of spokes, as already explained.  There are also various ways of &quot;lacing&quot; the spokes, and various spoke counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When picking a spoke lacing scheme, there are six basic considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flexibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torque resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appearance/sex/stupidly spending money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strength is determined by the number of spokes, how they are arranged, and how they interface with the hub and rim.  If you look at a normal &quot;three cross&quot; wheel, the spoke leaves the hub at an angle nearly tangential to the hub circumference.  This way the stress on the hub is minimized.  A &quot;four cross&quot; lacing (commonly seen on heavy touring bikes an the like) goes that one better and causes the spoke to be truly tangential to the hub circumference (plus the increased spoke length gives the wheel more &quot;spring&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You rarely see &quot;two cross&quot; and probably never see &quot;one cross&quot; lacings, but &quot;radial&quot; lacing (where the spokes leave the hub at right angles to the circumference) is becoming fairly common, especially on front hubs of &quot;mountain&quot; or &quot;cross&quot; bikes.  Radial lacing places considerable stress on a conventional hub, and with radially laced wheels you'll often see the spokes reversed, with the nipples on the hub end, because the hub must be redesigned to stand the stress.  Additionally, both because a radially laced wheel is so stiff and because usually radial wheels have low spoke counts, the stress on the rim is higher, such that the nipples would be apt to pull through.  So you'll sometimes see the bent end of the (reversed) spoke engaged in a slot in the rim or some such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while radial laced wheels are stiffer against radial forces on the wheel, they don't resist torque very well at all -- if a rear wheel were to be radially spoked the torque of the drive train would cause the wheel to twist into a sort of spiral, hindering the transmission of power to the wheel circumference.  Similarly, if disk brakes were used on a radial front wheel the wheel would twist severely when the disk brakes were applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[However, it should be noted that some people like to lace their rear wheel with a cross pattern on one side and radial spokes on the other.  This provides the needed torsional rigidity while permitting half the wheel to be radial, but it's not clear that there's any real advantage to the scheme.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air resistance obviously increases with spoke count, and is affected by the profile of the spoke as well.  Although air resistance is important to pro racers because the top of the wheel is moving forward at twice the speed of the bicycle, it's probably safe to say that the air resistance due to spokes on a standard 32-spoke three-cross wheel would not be noticed by most average bikers, even at fairly high speeds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ultimate low-wind-resistance wheel is the disk wheel, of course, and there are other exotic designs with 1, 2, or 3 broad, flat &quot;spokes&quot; made of high-strength composites bonded to rim and hub.  But generally you'll only see the disk wheels on rear wheels because the disk becomes a kite if it gets cross-ways to the wind as would happen on the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight is reduced by using more exotic materials (especially for the rim), and by reducing spoke count.  The more exotic the rim, the more intimately the design of the rim ties into the spoking scheme.  Some slight weight reduction is also possible by reducing the &quot;cross&quot; of the spoking (and hence reducing spoke length).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, sex.  Many of the above schemes (especially things like the low-spoke-count radially spoked front wheel with reversed spokes) have little practical benefit for the average cyclist, add cost, and reduce reliability.  (Ever heard one of those fancy high-tension spokes go?  It sounds like a gunshot.  And if one breaks you're likely dead in the water until you can get to a bike shop, whereas with a standard three-cross 32-spoke wheel one can usually &quot;limp home&quot; if a roadside repair is not possible.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T20:16:28.550" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T20:16:28.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2011-09-14T05:20:49.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up going with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ospreypacks.com/en/product/mens_1_1/viper_4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Viper 4 by Osprey&lt;/a&gt;, which is quite small (only enough extra room for keys/phone, and to attach helmet on the outside). It comes with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ospreypacks.com/en/product/mens_1_1/hydraform_reservoir_1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;best bladder/hose/bite valve system&lt;/a&gt; I've seen. Got it on special at Paddy Pallin in Melbourne for $70.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1732" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T05:20:49.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6096" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2011-09-14T06:46:22.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I am not a professional bicycle mechanic or athlete, I care about bicycling and I like seeing good answers cultivated and conversations staying civil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastEditorUserId="1944" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T06:46:22.880" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T06:46:22.880" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-14T06:46:22.880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6097" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2011-09-14T08:33:03.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a professional bike mechanic, service manager, and bike enthusiast in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very interested in seeing this site succeed, and I will do my best to see that it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest problem is an occasional lack of patience with folks that argue that known facts are false or who think that the whole bike industry is out to get them personally, but I know that, and I'll be extra careful with it in this context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not perfect, but I'll do my best to be fair and careful if you put me in this position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T08:33:03.673" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T08:33:03.673" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-14T08:33:03.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2011-09-14T13:41:00.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although it only provides about 1 Litre capacity, you might want to consider something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004UMWKAC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hydration belt&lt;/a&gt;.  I see people using them all the time for running, and they seem like they would work ok for biking.  Really, cages and bottles are cheap enough that on a bike, you should just go with water bottles.  Having something on your back really reduces your ability to dump excess heat.  Not only that, having so much weight up high can make it use a lot more energy if you have to get out of the saddle.  Any kind of movement of your upper body is going to have extra resistance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T13:41:00.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6104" CreationDate="2011-09-14T15:35:05.393" Score="2" ViewCount="20316" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any recommendations for where I can buy an inexpensive bike stand clamp? I do not know what they are exactly called but the actual part that the bicycle is held onto in a work stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T20:03:07.993" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T08:24:20.380" Title="Where Can I Find an Inexpensive Bike Stand Clamp" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6102" CreationDate="2011-09-14T19:19:56.383" Score="13" ViewCount="641" Body="&lt;p&gt;A comment in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6087/what-are-the-most-effective-exercises-to-improve-stamina-and-speed-on-my-cycle-to/6089#6089&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; about building up stamina for a commute says not to coast, even after intervals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not? How is coasting different from light pedaling with minimal load (which I'm assuming is the alternative for recovery)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T05:59:26.953" Title="Why should I not coast while training (even after intervals)?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6100" CreationDate="2011-09-14T19:49:47.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a bit of searching through training sites after reading that comment last night it seems that it is for the same reason that at the end of a 10k run you don't want to stop; if you do your muscles don't get a chance to remove toxins such as lactic acid that have built up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guidance for runners is to walk around and stretch gently - I'm guessing that the guidance on not coasting is for exactly the same reason - keep the muscles moving so as to aid in lactic acid dispersion and the removal of toxins built up during the exercise phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T19:49:47.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6100" CreationDate="2011-09-14T19:50:17.707" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason (and I'm no medical expert) is that it acts as a gradual cool-down period after the hard exercise. During any exercise it is good to cool-down by still moving and exerting less effort. Keeping the muscles moving helps remove lactic acid from the muscles (which contributes to cramping) and keeps the blood flowing. Also sudden changes between hard pedaling and stopping can make your blood pressure change more quickly.  It is better to make gradual transitions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, for all the same reasons that you should cool down for a few minutes after any strenuous exercise. In intervals, you are just doing it over and over. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooling_down&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooling_down&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T19:50:17.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-14T19:52:05.627" Score="7" ViewCount="2085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was hit by a car and now the steerer of my Reynolds 753 aero fork is bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to bend them back? Would that be safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't afford a new pair!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2404" LastEditorUserId="25959" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T21:31:36.547" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T21:31:36.547" Title="Can a Reynolds 753 aero fork steerer tube be unbent?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6099" CreationDate="2011-09-14T20:11:38.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for just the clamp, and want something produced commercially you are going to have a hard time finding something inexpensive (at least by my budget).  A Google search for Park Repair Clamp turns up a number of options but they are generally $100 and up.  You can pick up a decent stand for that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best deal I could find was a brand I'd never heard of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/accessories/tools/sette/torx-st-115-workbench-mount-workstand/prd_415723_152crx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sette Workbench Stand&lt;/a&gt; (or this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=Sette+Torx+ST+115+Work+Bench+Mount+Workstand&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;search&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9cTS3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sette Workbench Stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your other option would be to build your own stand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Bench-top-Bike-Repair-Stand/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY Bench Mount Bike Repair Stand&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Work-Bench-Bike-repair-stand-with-angle-adjustment/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Work Bench Repair Stand with Angle Adjustment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you get the idea...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T00:53:16.473" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T00:53:16.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2558" CreationDate="2011-09-14T20:19:30.697" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had to look this up for a friend, who accidentally completely closed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommended way, taken from &quot;Zinn and the art of Mountain Bike Maintenance&quot; is as follows.&#xA;&quot;Sometimes the pads in hydraulic disc brakes can rub because the pistons get pushed out too far, especially if the lever is applied without a rotor or spacer between the pads. You will have to push the pistons back in, usually by removing the pads and pushing the pistons back in with a plastic tire lever.  On Hayes, the only thing pulling the pistons back in is the reversal of the twist the pistons apply to square-cross-section o-ring seals surrounding the waist of each piston, so the pistons tend to stay out too far once there.  Pull out the pads, carefully push the pistons back in with the box end of a 10mm wrench(avoid pressing on the pin sticking out of the piston, which hooks the wire catch on the back of the pad), and replace the pad&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2393" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T20:19:30.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6103" CreationDate="2011-09-14T20:20:05.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will tell you how I have 'fixed' bikes with crash-damaged forks in the past:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;turn the bars round 180 degrees and swing the bike square on into a concrete wall.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incredibly this 'technique' works remarkably well, and is quite fun to do with someone else's 'pride and joy', but, as of yet I don't think I have had the pleasure of using this 'technique' on anything above a Reynolds 501 fork. It works very well on 'hi-ten' but I have no idea about 753. But it is all steel, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I share with you this 'technique' because, if you are going to try and 'bend it' then it works out a lot better than more 'scientific' approaches involving vices, scaffolding poles and such. The problem with is the tubes deform too easily so you cannot clamp them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only slight problem with the 'concrete wall' approach is that you can lack the will power to do it and any feeble-minded effort will result in pancaking the wheel. If splitting logs with an axe is one of your preoccupations then go for it. What have you to lose? (Well, the frame, the front wheel and your wrists...) But, as for the steel, it will bend back without too much fatigue damage, the hard part is actually doing it accurately. Hence the 'concrete wall' approach - tried and tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a wimp when it comes to the 'concrete wall' challenge, also consider looking into getting a horrid cheap fork in chrome steel of some vague ch-mo flavour. You can get them for £25 or less and, if you were to ride your bike blind-folded you would be none the wiser that you had swapped out the front fork. Cutting down a fork to fit and getting the lower bearing race on is again not for the faint-hearted, unless you have the proper tools that is. I would recommend phoning round your local bike shops and seeing what they can do for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an affordable fork in place you can look into getting some carbon fibre or 753 effort that will better compliment your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps and hope you are okay after you crash!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T20:20:05.787" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6103" CreationDate="2011-09-14T20:25:20.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by &quot;steerer&quot; you mean the top tube that turns in the bearings, it would be very bad for that to be bent, since it would seriously muck up the bearings, and ever getting it straight enough to NOT muck up the bearings would be unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the bearings, with something like a conventional steel fork the twin concerns are fractures in the steel and fractures in the welds and/or castings that hold everything together.  Generally if the bend is ONLY in the length of the metal tubing of one or both fork tines, the likelihood of a fracture is pretty small.  But it's so hard to be sure that there are no beginning stress cracks in a weld or casting that using the fork (with or without straightening) is risky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an attempt is made to straighten the fork, it's important that it be done carefully, in a way that will not put further stress on welds and castings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T20:25:20.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6108" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2011-09-14T20:49:53.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I participated early on in the Beta for Bicycles.StackExchange, and late last year when one of the previous moderators was unable to continue, I was asked to step in.  I have been a bike commuter on an off for my entire adult life, and am currently riding 22 miles round trip 2-3 times a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to be active in my local bike advocacy community.  I collect used bikes and occasionally turn a wrench for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slcbikecollective.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Salt Lake City Bicycle Collective&lt;/a&gt;.  I try to do one or two &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeutu.nationalmssociety.org/site/PageServer?pagename=BIKE_UTU_homepage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;charity rides&lt;/a&gt; a year.  In the past I taught an evening workshop on Beginning Bicycle Commuting for University of Utah Continuing Education.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a software development team lead during the day, and while I &lt;a href=&quot;http://stackexchange.com/users/d48a6c78-74bf-4b3b-bbfe-cf2ebd1dcd05&quot;&gt;participate on several of the SE sites&lt;/a&gt; I am most active here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a techy commuter type my interests and answers can at time be &lt;a href=&quot;http://stackexchange.com/users/d48a6c78-74bf-4b3b-bbfe-cf2ebd1dcd05&quot;&gt;math heavy&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://stackexchange.com/users/d48a6c78-74bf-4b3b-bbfe-cf2ebd1dcd05&quot;&gt;pedantic&lt;/a&gt;, but hopefully they are informative with just a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/564/can-you-be-arrested-for-breaking-the-speed-limit-on-a-bike/591#591&quot;&gt;touch of levity&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that in general our community on Bicycles.SE is a well behaved and helpful bunch that rarely needs reining in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T20:49:53.253" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T20:49:53.253" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-14T20:49:53.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5962" CreationDate="2011-09-14T21:03:58.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not having seen a picture of this bolt, I may be entirely misunderstanding what you have.  It seems to me though, from the narrative you give, that being threaded on both ends isn't a necessity for this set-up.  It may be a piece of hardware that simply cannot be found anymore.  Remember that Raleigh had their own machine shop and created all of their own screws and bolts, back in the olden days--many of those nuts and bolts simply do not follow any standard.  You will not find a modern piece of hardware to fit in that hole.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would recommend is a self-tapping screw.  Find a self-tapping screw that is slighly larger than the hole in question.  If you need a spacer between the fender and the frame, stick it in there.  Make sure the screw is long enough to go throught the fender/spacer combination and still bite into the frame-hole.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a socket wrench and a little pressure.  The end result should be a screw which holds the fender to the frame... the head should be inside of the fender.  Do choose a screw with a smallish head that won't interfere with the wheel.  Ideally, you won't have to file it down once installed--or you'll never be able to remove it!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T21:03:58.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6100" CreationDate="2011-09-14T21:55:39.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, as others indicated, it is for the same reason that runners don't just stop and sit down between intervals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add that it is also a matter of form. As much as they are about power, intervals are also about developing good form. If you punctuate them by totally slacking and using the bike as an easy chair that's somewhat counterproductive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T21:55:39.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5282" CreationDate="2011-09-14T23:20:18.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my perspective (normally a road bike user, and fairly good at falling of an MTB on rapid downhills) when I fall I always try to leave the bike, as pedals, cranks and sprockets hurt legs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to me the most important things to protect are head, elbows, knees/shins and back. Frame pads aren't going to do anything for me, but protective clothing will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T23:20:18.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6099" CreationDate="2011-09-14T23:25:29.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really are looking for a cheap option, plumbers supply shops will have cheap clamps used for holding pipes for bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B&amp;amp;Q here has one that looks reasonable and suitable for about £60. Basically seems like a standard vice with wooden face plates that have curved grooves for pipes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T23:25:29.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6037" CreationDate="2011-09-14T23:32:04.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use flat laces for my shimanos - they never come undone and they were about £3 at Clark's shoe shop:-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T23:32:04.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1678" CreationDate="2011-09-14T23:41:22.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nobody has mentioned on the &lt;strong&gt;Against&lt;/strong&gt; side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noise - I have tried many helmets, and above a reasonable pace, all of them have wind noise, which helps to drown out the sound of big metal things aiming towards me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always where one when riding an MTB in a forest downhill, but on my commute I find I am much happier hearing traffic behind me so I can take evasive action, rather than being surprised by it as it comes alongside!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T23:41:22.253" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-14T23:41:22.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6124" CreationDate="2011-09-15T01:25:32.500" Score="7" ViewCount="5234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a custom road bike with (mostly) Shimano parts.  I love to ride but I'm not so strong on the technical side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have quick-release wheels; I regularly (3-4 times a year) put the bike in a bag and travel by train to a cycling destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I did so, upon re-assembling my bike, I noticed there was a lot of &quot;play&quot; in the rear wheel left-to-right.  It rolls smoothly, but there is an intermittent....feeling.... as the wheel rotates when I am riding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The feeling is a feeling of some friction, but not enough to actually retard the forward motion of the bike or anything, just enough to allow my feet to feel it in the pedals.  It appears to happen once a rotation, as if I am going fast enough, I can't feel it anymore, but when I am going slow, there's certainly a pace to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard anecdotally from a friend I may need to adjust my cone &amp;amp; bearings, as they may have become too loose.  Does anyone have any advice on how to do this, or things I should watch out for?  I'm trying as much as is possible &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to ride until I sort this, but since I commute by bike, it's urgent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2405" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T20:19:53.770" Title="How do I know if my cone/cap/bearings need to be adjusted?" Tags="&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6115" CreationDate="2011-09-15T02:04:51.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bearing cones are loose, you should be able to feel it if you have the wheel off the bike, and wiggle the axle (not the quick release 'skewer' that slides through, but the hollow tube that the quick release skewer slides through). With the wheel on the bike, you would also be able to feel it by wiggling the rim side to side (perpendicular to the bike frame). If you try wiggling the rim side to side while it is on the bike, then you can watch the distance between the brake pad and the rim to see how much that distance changes to see how loose it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can feel the axle move in the hub, then yes, you probably need to adjust the cones. There should be a lot of &quot;how-to&quot; guides out there if you Google it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are feeling a 'drag' once per wheel rotation, then you should make sure the rim isn't rubbing on the brake pads at some point in the rotation. Sometimes the axle doesn't seat itself all the way into the dropouts on the frame when you put the wheels on, and it will end up slightly crooked on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T02:04:51.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5962" CreationDate="2011-09-15T02:20:35.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you know someone who has a tap and die set, it might help to use it to measure the size and thread pitch of the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find an exact replacement for the original, you might be able to use a normal stud (McMasterr Carr sells a large selection &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=e2dxn3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) and but a bolt down one side to act as the 'seat'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, look around for car exhaust manifold studs.  I Googled &quot;exhaust manifold stud&quot; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=exhaust%20manifold%20stud&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=16591303498491567213&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=015xTsa7NeGmsALYw5nfCQ&amp;amp;ved=0CDwQ8gIwAw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this image came up&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DFui9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And another example of exhaust manifold studs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oZcTt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some of them look very similar to the example image posted by Daniel in the comments to your original post. You might be able to find a hardware shop or auto parts dealer that carries a variety of studs you can try to match up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastEditorUserId="2334" LastEditDate="2011-09-15T02:25:52.173" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T02:25:52.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6115" CreationDate="2011-09-15T05:42:49.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your description sounds more like a buckle in the rim.  Loose cones can be felt by holding the rim and trying to waggle the wheel side to side.  If it does, you have loose cones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The once a rotation comment sounds more like a ding though.  Once you've checked your cones aren't loose, try spinning the wheel and see if the rim appears to wobble in relation to the brakes.  If it does it's most likely out of true (not running true).  The simplest way to get good results in that case is to ask a bike shop to true it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T05:42:49.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6120" CreationDate="2011-09-15T09:36:48.757" Score="19" ViewCount="2931" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone of moderate cycling abilities, and pretty good fitness tried to cycle to Greece from eg. London; how long would it take approximately. Assuming around 8 hours of cycling a day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And please (for future users) explain how you did the calculation and link to any on-line tools or resources you used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2407" OwnerDisplayName="Vass" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-22T03:09:58.217" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T12:07:16.360" Title="How to estimate how long a tour will take? (UK to Greece)" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;europe&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6119" CreationDate="2011-09-15T10:23:51.137" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's more or less a math question. A way from &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=athen&amp;amp;daddr=Zagreb,+Croatia+to:47.38771,15.2681+to:london&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sll=47.574673,15.010071&amp;amp;sspn=2.227241,5.984802&amp;amp;geocode=FSyEQwIdJ-NpASnxQ3AGH72hFDHdjWZ2RTU2Jw%3BFYAUuwIdEtDzACk5zALJktZlRzGKwvsoliRFOg%3BFT4U0wIdBPnoACn_LrGWQh9uRzG8AOeWlDyV7g%3BFXjUEQMd5BL-_yl13iGvC6DYRzGZKtXdWjqWUg&amp;amp;vpsrc=0&amp;amp;mra=ls&amp;amp;via=2&amp;amp;t=p&amp;amp;z=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Athen to London&lt;/a&gt; without using a ferry if not absolutely necessary (Canal), it is approximately 3200 kilometers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have an average speed of 15 km/h (mountainbike) or maybe 25 km/h (racing bicycle) it would take approximately 214 respectively 128 hours to cycle the route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always for such rough approximation I would add at least 20% time buffer. So you would have 257 hours (32 days) respectively 154 hours (19 days).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also generated a tour profile for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQeOA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see that the route is more or less flat, expect for one or two passes that you would have to climb. But be careful, on such a large scale, all steep climbs aren't visible. The red line indicates Zagreb (Croatia).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest mountains on the road are between Graz and Wels (Austria). But with a few extra kilometer you could avoid them when &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=athen&amp;amp;daddr=Zagreb,%20Croatia%20to:Vienna,%20Austria%20to:London,%20Westminster,%20United%20Kingdom&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sll=44.739645,11.865095&amp;amp;sspn=18.755094,47.878418&amp;amp;geocode=FSyEQwIdJ-NpASnxQ3AGH72hFDHdjWZ2RTU2Jw;FYAUuwIdEtDzACk5zALJktZlRzGKwvsoliRFOg;FS6Z3wIdO9j5ACmfyjZRngdtRzFGW6JRiuXC_Q;FXjUEQMd5BL-_yl13iGvC6DYRzGZKtXdWjqWUg&amp;amp;vpsrc=0&amp;amp;mra=ls&amp;amp;t=p&amp;amp;z=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;traveling over Vienna&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then also the evalation profile looks much nicer (unfortunately I can't draw it in the same scale):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nY2VN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the first red line is Zagreb and the second Vienna (Austria).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=athen&amp;amp;daddr=Zagreb,%20Croatia%20to:Budapest,%20Ungarn%20to:London,%20Westminster,%20United%20Kingdom&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sll=44.739645,11.865095&amp;amp;sspn=18.755094,47.878418&amp;amp;geocode=FSyEQwIdJ-NpASnxQ3AGH72hFDHdjWZ2RTU2Jw;FYAUuwIdEtDzACk5zALJktZlRzGKwvsoliRFOg;FabE1AId9okiASnJz9TRNMNBRzFgER4MKcQABA;FXjUEQMd5BL-_yl13iGvC6DYRzGZKtXdWjqWUg&amp;amp;vpsrc=0&amp;amp;mra=ls&amp;amp;t=p&amp;amp;z=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Traveling over Budapest (Hungary)&lt;/a&gt; would be even more flat, but now the distance is really longer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3qQX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the first red line is Zagreb (Croatia) and the second one is Budapest (Hungary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to draw all the profiles, I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/profile_input&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GPS Visualizer&lt;/a&gt;. It is a online tool, that can plot profiles from various sources (e.g. GPS tracks). In this case I just created a tour in Google Maps and then used the static link to this tour as input for the GPS visualizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for the fun of it, I created you a &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=athen&amp;amp;daddr=Brindisi,%20Italy%20to:Vaduz,%20Liechtenstein%20to:Sion,%20Switzerland%20to:Westminster,%20London,%20UK&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sll=44.739645,11.79522&amp;amp;sspn=18.755094,47.878418&amp;amp;geocode=FSyEQwIdJ-NpASnxQ3AGH72hFDHdjWZ2RTU2Jw;FQ8PbAIdL7oRASkr1diWOnpGEzGRZFLsC_WMiA;FWNSzwIdZTqRACn9L0cdRDGbRzGXFpTOPpSWtw;FWhnwQIdAVZwACmvGvnYhd6ORzHKioc2fa4__g;FXjUEQMd5BL-_yl13iGvC6DYRzGZKtXdWjqWUg&amp;amp;vpsrc=0&amp;amp;dirflg=ht&amp;amp;mra=ls&amp;amp;t=m&amp;amp;z=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very alpine route&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aXQKM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first red line is Brindisi (Italy), the second is Vaduz (Liechtenstein) and the third is Sion (Switzerland).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1316" LastEditorUserId="1316" LastEditDate="2011-09-15T12:41:52.577" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T12:41:52.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6128" CreationDate="2011-09-15T11:35:46.300" Score="8" ViewCount="25938" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son has a relatively cheap kids mountain bike, no suspension or anything flash, and after a minor crash into a friend the back wheel is slightly out of true. It only causes issues under braking when the warped area of the wheel leads to stuttering braking, and locking up entirely when the brakes are pulled hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut feel is that I should just throw it and get a new one, as I don't know how repairable these things are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can bike shops repair that sort of thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2019-11-09T21:20:52.130" Title="For a slightly warped wheel, is it worth getting it repaired?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6121" CreationDate="2011-09-15T11:44:22.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course they can!  It's easy enough and much cheaper to do it yourself with a spoke key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T11:44:22.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6121" CreationDate="2011-09-15T11:45:36.400" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can easily be repaired (unless the rim has a dent). You can do it yourself: Just carefully tighten the spokes on the opposite side where the brake pad rubs ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: This is a cheap mountainbike with a slight dent we're talking about, not a Cervélo to be ridden at 70km/h. Of course you need a truing stand and an alignment gauge and whatnot to get it perfectly straight again, but since the rim probably isn't perfect anymore and the whole point is to stop the brake from rubbing against the rim, I still suggest to simply put turn the bike upside down, release some pressure of the tire so it doesn't explode and place a thumb on the chainstay (or fork) and put the nail close to the rim. Now spin the wheel and remember the spokes where the tire rubes on your thumbnail. Tighten those &lt;strong&gt;coming from the opposing side&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt;. If those spokes are too tight, release the ones one the side, where the rim rubs. Repeat several times till the result is halfway decent. Bike shops charge big bugs for this and it really isn't rocket science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastEditorUserId="2259" LastEditDate="2011-09-17T08:18:00.583" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T08:18:00.583" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6115" CreationDate="2011-09-15T11:58:07.357" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pick the bike up so the problem wheel is off the ground.  Grasp the tire and push it back and forth (left/right relative to the frame).  If you can get any perceptible motion then the bearings are loose and need adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the wheel is off the ground, spin it and watch the space between the rim and the brake block (assuming you don't have disk brakes).  The space should be nearly constant, varying no more than about 1/2 mm as the wheel rotates.  (Check this on both sides, since a dinged rim is also a possibility.) If it varies more than 1/2 mm or so the wheel is out of true and needs to be trued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both tasks -- adjusting bearings and truing the wheel -- are things that a competent basement mechanic can accomplish, but not particularly suited for a newbie, so in either case it needs to go to a bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T11:58:07.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6121" CreationDate="2011-09-15T12:17:27.590" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can attempt it yourself, or get it done at a bike shop.  I'm not sure what bike shops charge these days for truing, but it's probably less than half of what a new inexpensive wheel would cost (though you may be able to get a used wheel cheaper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have moderate mechanical abilities you can attempt it yourself.  The important thing is to get the RIGHT spoke wrench for the spoke nipples, and get a good quality one.  And if the nipples are at all corroded, be prepared to &quot;break free&quot; a nipple with Vice Grips before you end up rounding off the nipple with the spoke wrench.  (If you round off a nipple they can be replaced, but it's a minor PITA.)  (If the nipples are badly corroded give the screw threads of each a shot of Liquid Wrench before you begin, being careful to not let the stuff dribble down into the tire.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truing a wheel is mainly a matter of THINKING about which way each spoke pulls.  And you may need to loosen some and tighten others (though you should probably tighten more than you loosen overall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T12:17:27.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6119" CreationDate="2011-09-15T12:18:23.500" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give yourself a week to follow the Loire down to the Alps, a couple of weeks to cruise around lake Geneva, through Interlaken, Liechtenstein (to add an extra country to the bedpost), Graz, Vienna and on to Budaspest. Remember that it is one Alp a day unless you are a TdF rider, so be prepared for some astoundingly steep climbs and low mileages if you go the Alpine way. Budapest is fully first world, but, heading south through the Balkans isn't going to be quite so luxurious, but you will be okay. Give yourself another couple of weeks for that 'adventurous' stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally you can go the other way through Italy, avoiding too much Alpi-ness, this should be a lot quicker but you will have to get a boat when you get to the heel bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would do the Alps and maybe consider following the Danube as much as possible as the roads along side it in Hungary are quick and easy - Hungary is a big plain. But then you would be missing out Lake Balaton, which I think is a must. Also the Loire can be a bit trying as it is a bit boring by bike, but it does help you to get the France bit out of the way quite quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-09-15T12:29:15.020" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T12:29:15.020" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6121" CreationDate="2011-09-15T12:28:36.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As other contributors have noted, this is DiY with a spoke wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spoke wrenches come in different sizes, take the wheel into a shop so you can get the right wrench. Deflate the tyre somewhat before you begin as a hard tyre can puncture if making spoke adjustments. As for the truing process, I have to recommend Ken Kifer's guide because he wrote lots of great stuff and this article serves as an intro to his site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/skills/spokes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/skills/spokes.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to get a new back wheel there is the small matter of the sprockets that will need changing over. Get the shop to do this for you when you buy the wheel as you don't want to be buying special tools for something the bike shop guys do every day. Also expect a 24&quot; wheel to be special order, but not that expensive if you do get a basic steel hub/alloy rim model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T12:28:36.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6121" CreationDate="2011-09-15T12:30:54.690" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trueing a wheel is something you can do on your own, but until you get good at it it'll take you time to do it right - &quot;carefully tighten the spokes on the opposite side...&quot; is kind of an oversimplification. Typically a trueing stand is used; the wheel is placed in the stand and prongs or arms on the stand determine exactly where the wheel is out of true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that sometimes you need to loosen some spokes to get enough play to pull back against the deformation enough to straighten it out. Someone who does it all day makes it look easy - you bring your wheel in to a good bike shop and usually it takes longer for you to describe the pothole you whacked into than to actually true the wheel. If you've got a good relationship with them they may not even charge you for a 10 second job (karma would demand an offering of beer or pizza as appropriate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a trueing stand but you're feeling adventurous you could try doing it with the wheel in the frame - stand behind / in front of the wheel (so you're looking at the tread) and spin the wheel slowly - you should see where it comes out of true. Use an actual spoke wrench - if you use pliers you can round the ends of the spoke over and if you use a wrench you'll put too much torque on it (I have a friend who has done it with a leatherman in the middle of a ride but he also repaired and managed a bicycle store for many years). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's an inexpensive wheel if you're confident enough in your abilities I'd say go for it - worst case is you end up replacing the rim, but you may learn a new skill in t he process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastEditorUserId="2362" LastEditDate="2011-09-16T13:24:50.530" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T13:24:50.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6121" CreationDate="2011-09-15T14:46:53.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had exactly the same problem a week ago. My son had a minor crash and the front wheel was slightly buckled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brought the bike to bike shop to see if they could fix it and they said &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; - and to get a new wheel - cost ~ €40 thank you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, it's an old crappy bike so not that surprised that they said no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution - looked around for second hand bike which we got for less than the price of new wheel!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="402" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T14:46:53.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6130" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2011-09-15T17:00:46.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been an irregular user of StackOverflow since its beta days and have been a keen denizen of Bicycles.SE since I noticed it had come into existence (it is much to my chagrin that I lack the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/badges/16/beta&quot;&gt;Beta&lt;/a&gt; badge).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cycling credentials are fairly middle of the road, I find that's the safest place for all concerned. Most of my miles are as an urban cyclist for utility and commuting, currently doing a round trip commute of about 23 miles, four or five days a week. I had my eyes opened to the ways of the open road about ten years ago by a friend who was a keen racer. He taught a bunch of us the basics of group riding and, since then, I've tried to always knock off a century ride or two per year (my &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Arthur_Stanley_Eddington#Eddington_number_.28cycling.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eddington Number&lt;/a&gt; is a relatively paltry 45). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see moderation here much as I do my cycle home in the evenings: generally just keeping my head down and leading by example - stopping at red lights, not going on the pavement, go about my day answering what I can, leaving alone what I don't know about, just the occasional interjection to point out the behaviours that might not belong, aiming to educate and enlighten. If you've done something daft because you don't know better, then a big stick won't work, but a quiet word, a careful edit and a willingness to believe that it wasn't done deliberately are all that are needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The community that has coalesced on Bicycles.SE over the last 12+ months has shown itself to be patient, knowledgeable and willing to go into extraordinary detail on some superbly arcane topics and the pro-tem moderators have started things out in the way that those who come after should do well to follow with the need to exhibit only the lightest of occasional touches to keep things straight.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2011-09-15T17:00:46.857" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T17:00:46.857" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-15T17:00:46.857" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2011-09-15T18:59:41.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battery life and water resistance are the two key ones for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other one that hasn't been mentioned is price.  If you leave a smart phone in your handlebars while popping into a shop it will get stolen.  A typical bike computer won't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T18:59:41.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6134" CreationDate="2011-09-15T20:19:41.773" Score="15" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a pass in the Alps that I can cross with my mountain bike. I know that if there's a road, I could just use it, but my question is a little bit more special.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a pass that isn't very busy, for example if the main road uses a tunnel to cross the pass. Additionally, it should be worth the effort, e.g. because of the great view and landscape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1316" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-22T02:35:19.420" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T02:35:19.420" Title="Pass in the Alps that can be crossed by mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;europe&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6133" CreationDate="2011-09-15T23:17:47.080" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Get a printed map and look for the 'postal roads'...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 'postal roads' in Switzerland that are closed to normal cars. These go over some high passes that are just not wide enough for regular traffic. They are called 'postal roads' because only the post bus goes on them. What is amazing about them is the descents - you can ride 'TdF' style without really worrying too much about what might be around the corner... Well, you still have to worry about that but you don't have some stalker of a motorist pissing you off from behind or that obligation to skirt the side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as the postal routes there are some mountain roads that run one-way only, alternating which way the traffic goes. These are really good because you know that only the cars that you let go in front of you are ahead and there is nothing coming the other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head I cannot remember any of these glorious roads and I would have to phone a friend to remind me of where they were. I did a few going West-East in the German speaking parts of the country. For me as a cyclist they were what the Nurburgring is to a motorsport enthusiast - well, better than that, actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also the roads closed when the pass is not passable, that will be winter time for those, probably not what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are those towns that you can only get to by cable car and train. These are fully tooled up to take bikes and no adverse weather stops a Swiss train from not running on time. They really do have a different way of getting around that you will only get your head round by taking some of these options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although surrounded by gigantic mountains without a definable pass, Zermatt is one of the few places that is of particular interest to a cyclist. It is accessible by road yet is car free. Cars have to stop five miles or so further down the road and thereafter it is buses, taxis and bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently there are some financial implications to visiting Switzerland. The exchange rate and their 'safe haven' status means that your money does not go very far there. You might want to look into staying over in Youth hostels as they are all very clean, well presented and more affordable than those chalets that the skiers stay in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure where to start online for finding the legendary post roads. I used a proper map last time rather than 'google maps'. On proper maps the post roads are identified clearly. They were well worth the effort and helped me avoid those hellish motorway-roads full of big lorries carrying really useful things like yoghurt half way across Europe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T23:17:47.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6138" CreationDate="2011-09-16T02:39:22.003" Score="12" ViewCount="29380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute to work, and often wear my khakis on the ride in. As such, my clothes often get chain grease on them. What products or cleaning strategies do you know that work to remove chain grease from clothes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2413" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-16T03:44:45.780" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T07:38:21.217" Title="How do I clean chain grease off my clothes?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;clothing-care&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6135" CreationDate="2011-09-16T03:00:41.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ordinary degreaser you can get at Walmart or grocery stores will remove bike chain grease from clothes and car seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-16T06:01:36.953" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T06:01:36.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6135" CreationDate="2011-09-16T03:43:46.760" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most ordinary &lt;strong&gt;baby wipes&lt;/strong&gt; will get grease out of clothing if you get to the stain quickly enough - or, at least, get enough of it out that the rest will later wash out. You can also carry spray-n-wash pads or keep them in your desk at work. However, baby wipes are also good for cleaning your hands - handy after changing a flat, or fiddling with a bike chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's even better to avoid getting grease on your clothes to begin with, so I suggest using a &lt;strong&gt;pants clip&lt;/strong&gt; or rolling your right pants leg up. A full chainguard is great for this, but it's not always practical on a commuter bike. This won't prevent the problem completely, bit it does help minimize it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these reasons, I found that when I was commuting, I tended to favor my black or dark-colored pants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T03:43:46.760" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6135" CreationDate="2011-09-16T05:58:05.373" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of sense to @Neil Fein's 'get used to it' attitude as, with some garments, you are just not going to get the oil out. 'Prevention is better than cure' definitely applies, but we are past that, aren't we...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the office environment you have tea making facilities, including a sink with some washing up liquid and maybe some disposable hand-towels. Put the washing up liquid on the affected area neat, without water. Make yourself a brew whilst it soaks into the fabric. Now dab out what you can with a damp cloth and get it dry with the hand towels. This will remove the stuff that has not ingrained in yet and stop it spreading, e.g. to cross-contaminate your other leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to the wash you can apply an 'oxy' stain remover spray to the affected area before popping it into the machine. The active ingredient in 'oxy' is tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED) and this enables bleaches in normal washing powders to work at 40 degrees (so no boil wash needed). Now add biological washing powder to the machine and put it on the 40 degrees wash cycle. The 'biological' enzymes for removing grease in such powders only work effectively at 40 degrees, so, with TAED and the enzymes working away on your stain (that has already had the excess removed) you can effectively get your clothes clean with minimal effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swarfega hand cleaner is something you may also want to look into getting - this stuff is brilliant for cleaning hands and clothing alike. Again you put the stuff on raw without water, then wash it off once done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Prevention is better than cure', so make sure your chain is clean and lightly oiled. A heavily oiled chain collects dirt and it is this dirt that does the damage. You can also investigate getting a wax lubed chain as that copes with dirt better. If you run hub gears or single speed you may also want to consider using one of those 'rustless' chains that has a special coating and does not need oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T05:58:05.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6144" CreationDate="2011-09-16T06:09:10.607" Score="26" ViewCount="59890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that wheels should be trued for efficiency. Are there any safety risks (or risk  of damaging the bike) in using untrued wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the risks different between wheels untrued left-right and up-down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is motivated by the following fact: I have an up-down untrued wheel and not much time to take it to the shop, should I keep using the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastActivityDate="2019-07-06T09:36:47.957" Title="What are the risks of untrued wheels?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6099" CreationDate="2011-09-16T06:20:44.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the clamp in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6099/where-can-i-find-an-inexpensive-bike-stand-clamp/6104#6104&quot;&gt;Gary's answer&lt;/a&gt; is too pricey, it's time to start looking at other options than an actual clamp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though it's nowhere nearly as flexible as a proper repair stand, a &lt;strong&gt;wall mount bike rack&lt;/strong&gt; works quite wall as a repair stand. You screw one of these into the wall at shoulder height (or whatever height you like) and put the bike in it, drivetrain-side out. You now have a decent repair stand - the pedals will rotate freely if there's nothing on the wall to prevent it. (Check the depth of the stand before buying, though.) These go for about $25 at most hardware stores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Xgoa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wall-mountable repair stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a &lt;strong&gt;car rack&lt;/strong&gt; will do a decent job as a repair stand. These generally cost almost as much as that stand, so do this if you already have a car rack or if you find one really cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pedals often do not rotate freely on these, however, unless the bike is all the way out from the car. You want the sort of rack where the bikes hang from the rack, not the kind where the bikes stand on top of the rack. Look for a 3-bike rack or more, those tend to protrude out from the car more. Working on your bike when it's on your car can scratch your car or get it dirty, so this isn't an option on that bright yellow sports car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Floor stands&lt;/strong&gt; also work fairly wall, but have many of the same limitations as car racks; they're almost always not deep enough for the pedals to rotate freely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T06:20:44.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6139" CreationDate="2011-09-16T06:46:31.590" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Untrue wheels are weaker, may cause steering to be difficult at high speed, and if you're using rim brakes it will cause stuttering or lockups.  Having said that, it would need to be damn untrue for any of the above to be a serious problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T06:46:31.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6139" CreationDate="2011-09-16T08:08:44.250" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the reason for them not being true. A lack of equal tension in the spokes could mean weakness in one (or more) of them - and broken spokes are not a good thing to ignore. You can survive one or maybe two for a short while, but eventually the rim could be in danger of collapsing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have rim brakes then left-right could mean mismatched application of the brake blocks which could make for inconsistent pressure but also it could attempt to move the wheel from side to side, which might start to work it loose at the hub - and loose hub nuts are very dangerous. In this situation up-down is also sub-optimal as the brake blocks could be rubbing on different parts of the rim (or even the tyre).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T08:08:44.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2011-09-16T08:44:22.750" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too contemplated using a smartphone as a bike computer and eventually bought a Garmin Edge 800, which I've been very happy with. Here are the advantages it has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GPS is better&lt;/strong&gt;. Compare these two GPS traces from a ride my friend and I did yesterday evening (taken from Strava). This is a 2.5km climb, part wooded and part exposed. The first is my Edge 800 and the second is my friend's Nexus S:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFaCh.png&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; height=&quot;300&quot;&gt; &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFaPW.png&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; height=&quot;300&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like to use Strava (as I do), this can affect whether or not Strava detects that you've ridden over a segment. That all-out effort to beat your PB might not be recorded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Touch screen works with gloves on&lt;/strong&gt;. Very handy in winter!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The screen is &lt;strong&gt;readable in bright sunlight&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It weighs less&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's waterproof&lt;/strong&gt;. When the rain is so heavy that you need 100% concentration on handling the bike on slippery roads, and you can't even see your bike computer because your glasses are misted up (or your eyes are stinging), at least you know your ride is still being recorded!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're stranded and your bike computer battery has ran out, you can still use your phone to be rescued :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastEditorUserId="1152" LastEditDate="2011-09-18T13:20:59.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T13:20:59.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6139" CreationDate="2011-09-16T09:51:28.793" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is important to understand that spokes work in tension rather than compression. What that means is that the spokes at the bottom of the wheel are not 'doing anything'. The load is shared by all of the spokes to varying degrees and, particularly with cross-laced spoking patterns, that load gets dynamically transferred to use the strength of the available spokes. You can actually knock out a chord of a dozen spokes on the cheapest of steel rimmed wheels and the wheel will still be able to support your weight and get you home, albeit with gingerly riding style with no kerbs or potholes attempted...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, even quite seriously mangled wheels that are as true as a poppadom are surprisingly strong when riding on paved roads in a straight line. As other contributors have noted the problem comes with the brakes and stability at speed. You really do want to make sure your brakes are not hitting the tyre or falling off the bottom of the rim. If you have the slightest doubt then you can ride the bike using the other brake as your primary, using the brake on the affected wheel for 'emergencies only'. This should not be a problem if the weather is dry and you know what you are doing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straightening out the wheel need not be something that you need to get the bike shop to do. Consider doing it yourself, with a spoke key on the wheel in situ. Here is a handy page on how to do just that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/skills/spokes.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.kenkifer.com/bikepages/skills/spokes.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for getting a spoke key, go into the bike shop with the bike and ask. There are a couple of common sizes and you will need to get the correct key for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T09:51:28.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6119" CreationDate="2011-09-16T10:37:52.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6119/how-to-estimate-low-long-a-tour-will-take-uk-to-greece/6120#6120&quot;&gt;Roflcopter&lt;/a&gt; already tackled the actual route planning more completely than I ever could. I thought I'd add a bit about the time you can expect to take.&#xA;This depends mainly on the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The amount of cycling you do in regular life&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of how fit you are, your body needs to adjust to the cycling if you are not a regular cyclist. Plan trips of fewer km/day for the first week to 10 days, and add a few rest days if you are not at least a regular (50km/week+) cyclist. Your bum will become sore, obviously, but if your body is not used to prolonged bike sitting you will also feel this in your back, shoulders, neck and arms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Your fitness level at the start of your trip:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling is a physical activity. Even if you have no problem cycling 20km/h for 2 hours around your town you will find that cycling 15km/h for 5 hours is much more demanding, doing this a few days in a row even more so. Take a few test-trips of 5 hours or more in the weeks before you embark on your trip to find out how your body feels at the end of the day, and the day after. If you are tired at the end of the day, but feel fine the day after you have found a distance that you can keep up for more than a few days in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The bike you ride&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a bike that is suitable for the terrain you expect to tackle. In most cases slick road racing tires are not the best choice because they skid easily on loos gravel, sand, other dirt, or mud. If you plan on taking luggage, don't take your 8kg full carbon racer. Get a light-but-stiff mountain bike and fit it with narrow-but-not-too-narrow road tires, or get a hybrid or fitness bike fitted with these tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The amount of luggage you are planning to take&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full camping gear will weigh in at about 15-20 kg, if you plan on staying in hotels/hostels/b&amp;amp;b's you can cut this to below 10kg. This is dead weight that you will have to drag around all the time. In my experience full camping gear (which for me is about 17 kg) cuts my maximum daily distance by about 10-20% compared to no gear. Also, more gear might mean you need to take a stronger, heavier bike on your trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The amount of sightseeing you are planning to do&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't expect to slog around a town looking at the sights after you've just spent 8 hours on your bike. If you want to do more than just take in the highlights from the saddle of your bike, plan accordingly. Plan half- days or even full days just for sightseeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, now on to the actual numbers. I will try to outline a few steps to figure out a reasonable average speed. My base bicycle here is a reasonably light (~13kg) mountainbike or fitness bike, fitted with road tires with some profile (no slicks), and with 24 gears:&#xA;If you almost never cycle in your daily life (i.e. no commute, no long distance (30km+) recreational cycling on weekends, start with 12km/h.&#xA;If you cycle 30-50km/week, start with 15km/h&#xA;If you cycle 50-100km/h start with 18km/h&#xA;If you cycle 100km/h+ start with 20km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have high stamina from long distance running, swimming, or other endurance sports but you are in the lowest two levels for cycling, increase your average by 3 km/h for the first week, and increase it again by 3km/h for the days after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to take only hotel gear increase your average by 0-2 km/h depending on the hilliness of the terrain. If you plan to take no cargo (i.e. your luggage will be transported for you) increase your average by 1-3 km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride a very heavy (18kg+) bike or a mountain bike with knobby tires decrease your average by 2km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride a very light (10kg or less) bike and have road racing tires increase your average by 2km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following this should give you a reasonable estimate of your average speed if what you get falls within the 10km/h to 25 km/h range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan to ride about 4-8 hours per day depending on the amount of sightseeing you want to do. In my experience, 8 hours means all you do is cycle, eat, sleep, and prepare for these three activities (i.e. bike maintenance, food shopping, pitching tents/searching hotels, etc.) 6 hours will give you some time for sightseeing, having a few drinks in town at the end of the day, etc. 4 hours or less will allow all the sightseeing you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan a rest day (i.e. little or no cycling) every 4th to 7th day. You will need some margin in your planning to cover emergencies, and your body will probably also need to rest a bit more from time to time. Have more rest days in the first weeks, and postpone them if you feel good. If you are not an regular cyclist plan a rest day every 3rd day for the first two weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;And now for some general advice for first-timers:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get cycling gloves. Your hands will go numb from holding your handlebars otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get cycling shoes or other shoes with a stiff sole, preferably with click-pedals or toe-clips. Your feet will thank you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike maintenance is important! It is especially important to keep your cogs, chain and derailers clean and you tires at optimal (high) pressure. Anything that adds resistance uselessly lowers your speed. I generally clean my drivetrain every 3rd day, and after days with significant rain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep drinking and eating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look ahead on the map and make sure your supplies are adequate given the distance to the next food stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep an extra emergency supply of some salty stuff (I use pringles chips) and some sweet stuff (energy bars) on hand for when you accidentally &quot;hit the wall&quot; from undereating/drinking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't even think of taking more luggage than just what you need for the day in a backpack. You &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; regret it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T10:37:52.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2011-09-16T11:01:04.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would probably choose a &quot;best of both worlds&quot; option: Get a simple bike computer to monitor speed/distance/time while riding and have a smartphone with some app running in a waterproof pocket on me to have a GPS track to look at for after the ride (and when I'm lost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike computers are much better than a smartphone for during rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More accurate because of the sensor on your wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weather proof.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Readable in sunlight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheap enough to leave on your bike in most places.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are considering a GPS-enabled bike computer then I agree with what &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5968/are-there-advantages-of-dedicated-bike-computer-instead-of-smartphone-apps/6143#6143&quot;&gt;wdy.. says&lt;/a&gt; but if you already have a smartphone then it depends on your budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T11:01:04.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6139" CreationDate="2011-09-16T11:53:37.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly, the out-of-true up/down wheel simply makes your ride less pleasant.  Out of true side-to-side will cause the brakes to drag, if severe enough, and make them grab a bit on light/moderate braking, even if they aren't dragging normally.  And either will make the bike harder to handle at high speeds (especially those 50mph downhills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, an out-of-true wheel probably affects spoke life, and a wheel, once out-of-true, will tend to get worse over time.  And, of course, if a wheel goes suddenly out of true it may indicate that a spoke is near failure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But none of this (other than the handling problems, which you can evaluate yourself) represents a real hazard, and there is no great harm in continuing to ride on the wheel if it's not too unpleasant to do so.  It's not like a loose crank arm or some such where failure to fix it immediately can cause serious additional damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, a decent quality wheel in good condition, once trued for the 2nd or 3rd time (ie, fully &quot;broken in&quot;) should stay true for years, if you don't subject it to any severe shocks.  So it's worth paying to have it done (or learning how to do it yourself) to help assure years of pleasant riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T11:53:37.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6139" CreationDate="2011-09-16T13:59:53.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going down some serious hills on a road bike with warped rims.  At some certain speed (no speedometer) there was a considerable amount of wobble that started to happen.  An unbalanced mass rotating at high speed can cause a significant amount of wobble.  This is how the vibrate feature in your phone and game controllers work, by attaching an unbalanced weight to a small electric motor.  Let's just say this is something that I would not want to experience again.  Took it slow the rest of the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T13:59:53.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2011-09-16T15:11:04.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My simple bike computer (heartrate, wireless speed), is almost as expensive as my smartphone (android, with GPS). A dedicated GPS unit is much more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the bike computer has a good mount, and is waterproof. My smartphone is not waterproof, and would need a mount with a plastic screen, making the screen even less readable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I end up with taking two devices with me. But the total price is still less as a dedicated bike computer with GPS (and maps) would cost me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike computer mounted on my steer, giving me my current speed etc, but no directions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And my smartphone stored in a waterproof compartment in my camelbak. With the GPS tracking enabled for later analysis and emergency situations. The screen can be turned off, giving me more battery life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T15:11:04.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6135" CreationDate="2011-09-16T17:00:26.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vanish grease remover from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vanish.co.uk/%5d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vanish.co.uk&lt;/a&gt; will do the job very well,  just get to it as soon as you notice it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-16T17:13:10.413" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T17:13:10.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6135" CreationDate="2011-09-16T17:46:05.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've generally used Swarfega (the standard green variety).  As well as being great for getting hands clean it works on my jeans before they go into the wash.  You just rub it in before you put them into the wash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqTi4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pot of Swarfega&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T17:46:05.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6152" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2011-09-16T18:24:38.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Cycling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm primarily a &lt;strong&gt;utility/commuter&lt;/strong&gt; cyclist. My bike is a touring bike equipped as a commuter (drop bars slightly higher than seat, fender, lights, rear rack able to hold 25kg). My next bike will probably be a cyclocross or comfortable road bike (like a Roubaix). I do a few casual fun rides by myself or with small groups now and then. I ride &lt;strong&gt;year round&lt;/strong&gt; and have &lt;strong&gt;no car&lt;/strong&gt;. I'm not a mechanic, but I do the typical amateur maintenance and minor repair many cyclists do. I'm not really an expert in anything except makeshift cargo loading &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've volunteered frequently with my local cycling &lt;strong&gt;advocacy&lt;/strong&gt; group for a few years and this year I'm on the board of that local cycling advocacy group. I'm often encouraging people to cycle and helping them to do so in many ways in my local community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Previous Experience&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been involved with online/electronic communities since dial-up modem BBS systems in the early 90s. I ran my own BBS for a while back then, and assisted with running one or two other more popular ones. I've been a newsgroup moderator, and mailing list moderator. I helped start and run a linux users group and a system administrators group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Professionally I used to do more programming but have been doing much more Linux Systems Administration for about the past decade. I think I'd checked out Stack Overflow, but it didn't have much interest for me. When &quot;the trilogy&quot; was announced and ServerFault was created that was much more interesting to me. Early on I was very active there and was on the first page of high rep users, but have since slid down to the third page. When I saw a site for bicycling on Area 51 I came over and checked it out. I don't remember if I was involved in the private beta stage or not. I was very active, got a good amount of reputation points, and was asked if I was willing to be a pro-tem moderator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Basically, I'm even-tempered, experienced with online communities and specifically experienced with how Stack Exchange sites should work.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Moderation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For about the past year &lt;strong&gt;I've been a pro-tem moderator&lt;/strong&gt;.  I try to be impartial and fair. I usually don't get too emotional about online disagreements, but when I do I usually have the sense to walk away and come back later. If I make a mistake I'm willing to admit it and fix it. If I disagree about what should be on or off topic here, I'm willing to go along with the community consensus. I'm willing to learn to be a better moderator and will continue to try to improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enjoy helping an online community to thrive. I believe my efforts as a pro-tem moderator have helped with that, even if most of the job is fairly invisible. I think we have a good community here, full of people who like to help and to share their knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of us pro-tem moderators have been very pro-active with fixing questions. As the site grows I'd like to see more of the community (high rep users) closing and/or editing questions that need help, etc. Even though I think the long-term goal should be more community &quot;policing&quot;, I wouldn't at all mind dealing with more flags. Right now this site averages about 1 flag a day, which is really quite little effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-09-16T22:48:22.687" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T22:48:22.687" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-16T18:24:38.773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-16T18:49:04.477" Score="5" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I had to make a detour to the bike shop as a jockey wheel decided to fly out of a friend's derailleur. The shop were able to supply a replacement retaining bolt free of charge, however the only jockey wheels that they stocked were cartridge bearing ones at £20 a go. Needing to get home, the derailleur received an unexpected upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not notice any speed improvement on the way back, the jockey wheels didn't strike me as being featherlight and the shifting worked the same as before. I was beginning to wonder 'if we had been had'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what is the point of expensive jockey wheels? I can see the benefit for the shop, but not for the cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T23:11:08.360" Title="Practical benefits of expensive jockey wheels?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1021" CreationDate="2011-09-16T19:38:41.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Backpeddling in Guelph Ontario has a great reputation as a source for hard-to-find parts for specific bikes or vintages.  I'd be surprised if you didn't find a great deal of help from these guys: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.backpeddling.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.backpeddling.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2418" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T19:38:41.587" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-16T19:38:41.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2011-09-16T20:00:08.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As answered by peufeu, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abus-bordo.com/index_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Abus Bordo&lt;/a&gt; is a phenomenal lock.  If you love your bike then this is well worth the [hefty] pricetag.  I commute with this lock daily, the weight doesn't bother me because it's compact and snugly secured to my downtube (holster mounts to bottle-cage bosses).  I leave a U-Lock at my daily destination so there are actually two different styles of lock on the bike when it is locked-up for any length of time (ie. all day while I'm at work).  The Abus lock is easily the best lock on the market IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Stephen Touset pointed-out in an earlier comment, Sheldon Brown has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an excellent article on bicycle locking technique&lt;/a&gt;, that is very much worth reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2418" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T20:00:08.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6153" CreationDate="2011-09-16T20:02:30.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advantage of sealed idler cogs is that the bearings stay cleaner and don't (in theory) need lubing.  This keeps the cogs and derailer a bit cleaner, allows you to reduce maintenance slightly, and presumably provides a 0.0001% reduction in drive-train friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I suspect that there was more of an advantage prior to indexed shifters, where considerable sideways force from the cog was needed to help shift the chain.  In that situation wear on the bearings lead to poorer shifting.  With indexed shifters (and the associated profiled sprockets and &quot;climbing&quot; chains) this advantage is somewhat negated.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T20:02:30.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6160" CreationDate="2011-09-16T20:14:29.627" Score="10" ViewCount="793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that bicycling is a great form of cardio exercise. I bike to and from work everyday and the whole way everything is flat. I am not sure what the best way is to make the most out of the exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I pedal as hard as I can the whole time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a good enough alternative to jogging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2419" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-16T21:52:09.753" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T13:26:51.840" Title="How to make the most out of daily commute?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6157" CreationDate="2011-09-16T21:28:49.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend take a different path to work everyday or every week if you can. Not only will it make for a longer more fitness path but will also be more interesting to see new sites every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T21:28:49.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6135" CreationDate="2011-09-16T21:35:33.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was an automotive mechanic for quite a few years, yes I did get quite greasy when young and dumb, I used Naptha to get the grease out of my jeans, worked well, but it did make the washer a bit smelly, I Kept some naptha in a spray bottle, I sprayed the grease spots right before washing and used extra soap. This worked quite well for many years. There were only a few &quot;stains&quot; it did not get out over the years, but I think this was other contaminants besides oil and grease, but it always removed the grease completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never experienced any negative side effects for the washing machine besides the after smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T21:35:33.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6157" CreationDate="2011-09-16T21:40:15.703" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interval_training&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Interval Training&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a type of workout where you alternate bursts of energy with periods of recovery. There are many variations of interval training. If you want cycling specific intervals, you could try &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velopress.competitor.com/cycling.php?id=284&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Time Crunched Cyclist&lt;/a&gt;&quot; by Chris Charmichael. The book is primarily about training for Centuries or racing, but if you follow the methods, you'll get into great condition. Interval training is an excellent cardo workout and a great alternative to jogging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One popular method of interval training is the &quot;Tabata&quot; method. This uses 20 seconds of ultra-intense exercise (at an intensity of about 170% of VO2max or 90 - 95% of your max heart rate) followed by 10 seconds of rest, repeated continuously for 4 minutes (8 cycles). Typically, this is done 3 or 4 days a week and not on consecutive days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-09-16T22:28:45.133" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T22:28:45.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-09-16T21:55:11.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Newcastle, UK&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scratchbikes.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scratch Bikes&lt;/a&gt; is a bike sharing scheme in Newcastle upon Tyne that grew out of a Newcastle University venture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T21:55:11.397" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-16T21:55:11.397" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6157" CreationDate="2011-09-16T22:10:31.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a period of about an hour after exercise where your body is more likely to replenish your muscles with carbs and protein rather than storing it on your body as fat. It may be worth waiting until you get to work before you eat your breakfast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To increase the intensity, maybe consider panniers with additional weights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T22:10:31.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6153" CreationDate="2011-09-16T23:11:08.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen the advantages of expensive jockey wheels, I always found that the chain wore the teeth down long before the bearings/bushes went.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T23:11:08.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6166" CreationDate="2011-09-17T09:01:52.520" Score="8" ViewCount="5380" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Shimano Ultegra and Dura-ace brake calipers there are round-head slot screws in the lower section of the brake pad holder. In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/BR/EV-BR-6600-2368A_v1_m56577569830621027.pdf&quot;&gt;BR-6600 spare parts catalogues&lt;/a&gt; they are labeled as 'tire guide' (item 13), however they are not mentioned in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Ultegra/SI_8DD0A_001/SI_8DD0A_001_EN_v1_m56577569830621540.pdf&quot;&gt;user manual&lt;/a&gt;. They are also absent from Shimano 105 brakes and from comparable SRAM brakes. What is their function?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1983" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T11:32:13.307" Title="What is the purpose of the 'tire guide' screws on shimano brakes" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6164" CreationDate="2011-09-17T10:20:39.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;if my understanding is correct, they are used to &quot;angle and set&quot; your pads to improve the &quot;sweet spot&quot; when under the pressures of braking. Helpful if you have profiled ot aerodynamic rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2422" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T10:20:39.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6164" CreationDate="2011-09-17T11:32:13.307" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'tire guide' screws are for deep section carbon fibre rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea of the brake shoe holder is that you replace just the rubber bit, not the entire shoe. In this way you do not lose your settings, as happens when you replace the entire brake block, not just the rubber bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For speedy wheel swapping, i.e. in race conditions, the 'tire guide' exists. These have been round for a few decades and were originally conceived with square, box section rims in mind, e.g. original 'Mavic' rims such as the MA40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with deep section rims and tire guides is that, when the brake wears down, the rim can come in contact with the tire guide. The last thing the rim needs is to be scored all the way round by the metal tire guide. This could damage the rim beyond its cosmetic appearance. As for the brake block, the last thing it needs is for the tire guide part of it to be damaged by being worn off onto the rim. This would not be a problem if the whole brake block was swapped out when worn, but, nowadays, it is just the rubber bit that gets swapped out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enter the 'tire guide screws'. These are made of a plastic that wears away quicker than metal does. So, when the brakes are worn, the plastic shoe hits the deep section of the aero rim instead of the metal tire guide. The rider notices this through what the brakes feel and sound like, to hopefully cotton on that it is time to put some new brake block inserts in. Instead of the brake block holders and the rim getting damaged, these simple plastic screws get worn down. Replacement plastic screws don't come with the R55C carbon rim brake pad inserts, although they do come with the replacement brake blocks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/service/EV-BR_SHOE-Road-1326N_v1_m56577569830698525.pdf&quot;&gt;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/service/EV-BR_SHOE-Road-1326N_v1_m56577569830698525.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think it is interesting how patents like this work. There is 'prior art' with tire guides &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/components/weinmann5.JPG&quot;&gt;covered in a plastic coating&lt;/a&gt; from the pre-deep rim era, Shimano update the concept with nothing more than a plastic screw and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/download/5819880_Bicycle_brake_shoe_holder.pdf?id=IZECAAAAEBAJ&amp;amp;output=pdf&amp;amp;sig=ACfU3U3SJF4rVDZePY7oeNMi1ZUs2Z9jTw&amp;amp;source=gbs_overview_r&amp;amp;cad=0&quot;&gt;get a patent out of it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T11:32:13.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6167" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2011-09-17T14:52:06.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a keen, but very amateur cyclist, I do a reasonably regular commute to work (16 miles each way) and love long distance cycling at high speeds (always had pure racers) and although I am not anywhere as knowledgeable about bikes as many of the members here, I am active on a lot of StackExchange sites, and am a pro-tem moderator over on security.SE as well as managing a lot of the contributions for the blog over there, so I am used to the role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons I wanted to nominate myself for a mod role here is that I'm not too bad at organising, moderating, encouraging and generally being supportive of communities - which I hope is enough to qualify for the role despite being pretty new on bicycles.SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2011-09-17T14:52:06.223" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T14:52:06.223" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-17T14:52:06.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-18T11:50:34.157" Score="1" ViewCount="3492" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to wrap a frame with bicycle inner tubes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is an aluminium framed MTB with suspension (rather than a roadie-courier bike that usually gets subjected to such treatment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you use puncture repair glue or does it have to be 'gaffer tape'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips will be most appreciated on how to do this effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Edit:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the why question: there are various reasons why people would want to do this - to protect the bike from railings being one, to make it less attractive to thieves is my concern, making it look 'individual' is another reason to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was really hoping that someone here has had a go and might want to share what they learned from doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T23:14:09.427" Title="How do you wrap a bicycle frame with used inner tubes?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6168" CreationDate="2011-09-18T12:39:48.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to use zip ties - they're very strong but can be replaced/moved without damaging the tube.  Also for extra damage prone bits (chainstays, BB tube, etc.), I sometimes use the tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T12:39:48.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6157" CreationDate="2011-09-18T13:26:51.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your commute is only 4 miles each way then my advice is to extend it once or twice a week. Can you take a detour along some quiet roads? Any hills in the area? Do you pass a park around which you could do some laps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it easy on the way into work in the morning to save your energy, then go have some fun after work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T13:26:51.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6168" CreationDate="2011-09-18T14:42:43.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the use of zip ties. They hold up well and makes the tube available for trailside repairs. Such as an emergency patch for a blown out side wall,a bungee cord replacement or just as rope to tie something on that fell off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2429" LastActivityDate="2011-09-18T14:42:43.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6175" CreationDate="2011-09-19T03:57:23.643" Score="4" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a follow up from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4913/what-is-the-impact-of-changing-to-a-smaller-chainring&quot;&gt;my previous question&lt;/a&gt; I decided to change my Campag Veloce 53T chainring. I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbbparts.com.au/products/product/BCR-21C+50?category=KJUURSYI&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BBB 50T chainring&lt;/a&gt;. I tried to fit it over the weekend but it wouldn't fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the problem is that the original chainring is about 3mm thick where it bolts to the crank arm and the BBB one is 4.5mm. Below is a photo showing the gap where the chainring will not sit flush against the mounting points, and a diagram attempting to explain where the problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a look at Campy tech docs and can't find anywhere specifying the width of the chainrings at that point. I assume the BBB one just isn't compatible. Or have I missed something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7VfAq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8XLC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T10:40:13.297" Title="BBB chainring will not fit" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6173" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2011-09-19T05:09:23.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I guess I changed my mind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The history... Of course I had child bikes. But, back in 1977, I bought my first adult bike when I started college. That was fun, and initiated a racing mentality as I raced locally at a complete amateur level. .... After college, I wound up getting a Stumpjumper in 1982 or 1983. That led to trail riding in the foothills of the Cascades around the Seattle area but also in Eastern Washington... I switched over to road cycling about 13 years ago, mainly for the speed and distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently. I commute and run errands by bicycle on a near daily basis. I do distance and fitness riding on a road bike whenever possible. FWIW, over the years, I have accumulated way too much gear, tools, accessories, clothing, etc, related to bicycle riding....and I have opinions on most all of it. Additionally, I have repaired/replaced and/or overhauled pretty much every part on the bikes I have owned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I say it like I see it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;So? My Real World bikes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A modern road bike clean and simple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A hybrid/commuter bike decked out with fenders, lights, racks, panniers, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A funky and very old mountain bike currently used for riding around campgrounds. However, this bike does have a history of some bad ass riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The future&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touring. After a couple of recent (car) road trips, I have some ideas about turning them into cycling road trips. This is an area of cycling that I have yet to explore. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Current interests&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fitness cycling. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commuter cycling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling advocacy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Our general criteria for moderators is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patient and fair: I give it a good shot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leads by example: I don't recommend anything that I don't/won't do or have used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shows respect for their fellow community members in their actions and words: My weak point. I have usually been considerate in this respect; however, at times I have not been at my best.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;open to some light but firm moderation to keep the community on track and resolve (hopefully) uncommon disputes and exceptions: I think I've been open on this, although I will push back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T21:37:24.387" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T21:37:24.387" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-19T05:09:23.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6172" CreationDate="2011-09-19T06:01:42.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chainrings come in different thicknesses, people rarely come across the problem because each respective discipline has it's own standard it sticks to.  Check out good ol' &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Crankset#Chainring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T06:01:42.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6172" CreationDate="2011-09-19T10:40:13.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When Campagnolo introduced their 11 speed high end groupsets they re-engineered the chainset and introduced 'Micro Precision Shifting' and that new bottom bracket design amongst other features. Whilst they were at it they put the new (and thinner) chainrings on the 9/10 speed groupsets, including yours. Not that yours is compatible with 11 speed - you would have to replace the chainrings for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, they have created a bewildering array of parts that are a compatibility minefield, making one suspect Shimano are not so bad after all...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your BBB chainring is for the earlier 9/10 speed systems and sadly won't fit. Your best option is to put the 53T back on there until you can devote the man-months needed to research, afford and buy a genuine 50T Campagnolo MPS chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T10:40:13.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2011-09-19T13:01:37.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides what has been said in other answers, one of the main reasons I'm using a dedicated cycling computer is that I can load in tracks and follow them while riding. Being able to download MTB GPS tracks and ride along was what motivated me getting one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T13:01:37.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6180" CreationDate="2011-09-19T14:55:04.997" Score="4" ViewCount="2462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike - a Stumpjumper hardtail frame with a Shimano drivetrain - where I'm getting a good amount of chainslap. Before I start fiddling with stuff, I'd like to understand the problem better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a new-to-me bike that's only recently been built from a mix of old and new parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/6111290291/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Drivetrain by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm7.static.flickr.com/6081/6111290291_02fa751666_z.jpg&quot; width=&quot;640&quot; height=&quot;360&quot; alt=&quot;Drivetrain&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/6111831794/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wheel by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm7.static.flickr.com/6070/6111831794_3b186051c2_z.jpg&quot; width=&quot;640&quot; height=&quot;480&quot; alt=&quot;Wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've put up more pictures of the bike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/sets/72157606657745835/with/6111299001/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but these are the two that most clearly show the drivetrain.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I have two options here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the tension on the chain (somehow), or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull links out of the chain until all is well. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages of both? Or are there other strategies I'm missing? Or is my time better served by simply &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/6168/8&quot;&gt;wrapping the chainstay&lt;/a&gt; and living with the problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(While this isn't strictly relevant, I'd be remiss if I didn't point out that the front derailer also has issues - I can't get enough cable tension to get the chain to shift into the big ring up front.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T21:23:31.043" Title="Eliminating chainslap on a 90's Stumpjumper" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2011-09-19T16:05:41.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a racing bike I had many years ago I just increased the tension of the derailleur spring. This kept the chain length the same (so I didn't need to worry about any geometry changes making it harder to change gear) but increased the chain tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not quite the same as your MTB, as I obviously wasn't jumping off things so chain slap was not anywhere near as much of a problem, but you could look at that as a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T16:05:41.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35891" CreationDate="2011-09-19T16:15:06.300" Score="7" ViewCount="23006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a popup (tent) trailer and need to carry 6 bikes. I'd prefer not to put them on the roof of my van (the roof rack is rated to only 100 lbs and it's really high for lifting bikes onto).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've found this one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.discountramps.com/pop-up-camper-bike-rack.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.discountramps.com/pop-up-camper-bike-rack.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I also saw a &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20110911183346/http://www.socaltrailriders.org/forum/workshop/51604-diy-bike-rack-pop-up-camper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Do It Yourself design for one&lt;/a&gt; that is a lot simpler. It would be great to find a simpler less expensive one like that to purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastEditorUserId="1502" LastEditDate="2019-01-16T13:35:18.283" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T13:35:18.283" Title="What bike (carrying) racks are available for Pop-Up Campers?" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2011-09-19T18:19:23.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chain slap is a result of slack in the relatively longer length of the chain required to accommodate the wide range of gears on the typical mountain bike cassette.  You essentially have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Treat the Symptom&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrap the chainstay with an old inner tube or use a neoprene chainstay guard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pro&lt;/strong&gt; This will prevent damage to the chainstay and will quiet the obnoxious noise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Con&lt;/strong&gt; The chain is still slapping around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy and install a chain guide.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pro&lt;/strong&gt; These are supposed to help with both chain slap and dropped chains. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Con&lt;/strong&gt; Expense; I've heard that there are frequently&#xA;compatibility/installation issues. (I've never bothered to use one)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Treat the Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, your suggestions of increasing the tension (by replacing/tightening the derailleur) or removing a link or two from the chain may work, but you need to be careful that you don't shorten the chain too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pro&lt;/strong&gt; Cheep. May improve shifting performance as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Con&lt;/strong&gt; Easy to screw up and end up destroying the derailleur. May not help much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many mountain bikers don't need the full wide-range of the typical mountain cassette.  If that is you, your best bet to reduce chain slap is to invest in a tighter range cassette and a short or medium cage derailleur.  This will take much of the slack out of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pro&lt;/strong&gt; Best bet for reducing the chain slap.  May result in more efficient gearing and shifts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Con&lt;/strong&gt; Expensive if you don't have the parts laying around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My General Recommendation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrap the chainstay first, check the length of the chain and derailleur tension second and then if you can go tight-range/short-cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My Specific Recommendation for your bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You picture shows a long cage derailleur, and a 'mega-range' cassette.  In your specific case you could start with swapping out that cassette with the huge jump to the granny gear with a more rationally stepped one and just shortening the chain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-09-19T18:37:43.283" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T18:37:43.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-19T18:36:35.653" Score="21" ViewCount="41711" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay. I have a bike which I would like to store for around six moths. Winter temperatures can be as low as -30 C. The problem is that I do not have an indoor storage space, so it is going to reside on a balcony. We also have lots of snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my plan is:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Inflate tires to max&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Greasing&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. Wrap bike in plastic wrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2435" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-09-23T02:34:37.760" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T23:17:42.810" Title="How to store bicycles outside during winter" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2011-09-19T18:53:50.737" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here a few other considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure bike is 100% dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes oil chain and all other gears, bearings etc...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If bike is steel, oil or repaint any exposed metal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If bike steel, add nice layer of car wax and buff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If bike is carbon, polish with Lemon fresh wood furniture polish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If saddle is leather polish'er up with some mink oil or other leather conditioner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil/Lube each spoke at the nipple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift bike so it is not resting on its tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming plastic is draping, but make sure tied down so it does not blow away!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps...if I think of any others I'll lyk!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T18:53:50.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2011-09-19T18:58:55.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me introduce you to the B-Screw...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at how that derailleur is hanging. The parallelogram is angled skywards rather than downwards. This is because the B-Screw at the back of the derailleur is not screwed in enough. This screw contacts the derailleur hanger's little 'spur' and you may want to twist the derailleur body clockwise to make it easier to do up the screw. Tighten it all the way, then go into the big cog and back it out so that the top pulley is close but not touching the sprocket. This will put the B-Screw in its correct position, putting a sensible amount of tension on the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your front derailleur not making it onto the big cog, the problem may be with the bottom bracket. These come in different lengths and if the cranks or b/b have been repaired/upgraded over the last decade, due concern for the chainline may not have been given. Take out the one that is in there and put in a cartridge b/b of the same shell size with a shorter length. The next size down may be all you need but, without seeing the gap between the cranks and the chain stays I can only guess. Obviously you want the cranks to be an equal distance from the chain stays on each side with enough room in there for the triple chainset. the derailleur (front) will probably need adjusting by then, this has the outer plate parallel with the chainring and 1mm above the outer chainring teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the bike look really good and eliminate chain slap problems in style, consider going on eBay to get a genuine Shimano 'Shark's Fin':&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4dcKn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T18:58:55.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6015" CreationDate="2011-09-19T20:13:17.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's almost certainly a deformed square taper. If you winch on tight or carefully grind the surface you may be able to rescue it. Otherwise get a new crank arm and bb, worth buying reasonable quality and maintaining your bike at closer intervals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T20:13:17.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2011-09-19T20:35:04.610" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's my solution.  Take off wheels, pedals, and handlebars, and place the bike under the bed.  Ok, that may not be the right solution, but it might point you in the right direction.  If you start taking parts off your bike, you can fit it in a pretty small place.  You might even want to consider taking parts off and storing everything but the frame inside your apartment.  Take out the bottom bracket and leave that in the house.  Wheels can be easily stored inside.  The seat/seat post is dead easy to remove and can be stored just about anywhere.  Basically you should store as much inside as you can.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T20:35:04.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6187" CreationDate="2011-09-19T21:11:51.020" Score="3" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend told me the best bike parts are &lt;code&gt;shimaro/shimanno&lt;/code&gt;? &#xA;I saw both companies online! Which one is faking other ones name?!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2381" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T18:16:12.173" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T03:26:48.963" Title="Is it Shimaro or Shimanno?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6186" CreationDate="2011-09-19T21:18:20.017" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The name of the company you're looking for is &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Shimano&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (with one &lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt;, not two)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-09-19T22:43:23.080" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T22:43:23.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2011-09-19T22:12:14.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No need to do anything extra special.  Just keep it dry, mostly, and it doesn't hurt to hang it so the weight is off the tires.  In the case of &quot;sorta outside storage&quot;, if you cover it be sure that air can circulate under the cover to keep it dry -- don't wrap too tightly.  And be wary of placing the bike in a location (eg, near a bathroom exhaust fan) where humidity from inside will come out and condense on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't take the tires off -- more apt to damage the bike than with them on.  But it doesn't hurt to take the seat inside (something mice might gnaw on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T22:12:14.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2011-09-19T22:37:44.107" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrapping with plastic for a season will result in trapping moisture, instead of keeping it out. Moisture will penetrate unless you do something extreme like vacuum-sealing (which isn't practical in this case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're better off making sure the bike is well-covered to keep off precipitation, but can also breathe to allow excess moisture to evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GuyZee's tips are good. I'd inspect the bike once a month to ensure it doesn't need extra grease and there's no rust or moisture build-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the balcony is accessible from the ground in any manner, you're giving bike thieves the advantage of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2437" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T03:31:51.200" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T03:31:51.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6214" CreationDate="2011-09-20T00:05:17.947" Score="13" ViewCount="23938" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning on my commute I encountered a runner in the bike lane I was riding in.  This irked me because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bike lane was on a busy street, with three lanes of motor vehicle traffic in each direction.  (I was northbound on Embarcadero in San Francisco, for those of you familiar with the city.)  To go around the runner I had to enter the car lanes, which makes me a little uneasy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; wide sidewalk available to runners and other pedestrians along this street.  There were no obstructions on the sidewalk, and it was not choked with other pedestrians.  In other words, there was plenty of room for this runner to run on the sidewalk.  (I'm guessing that he didn't want to run on the concrete sidewalk based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/2011/07/19/health/nutrition/19best.html?_r=3&amp;amp;ref=health&quot;&gt;misguided&lt;/a&gt; belief that the asphalt roadway would be easier on his joints.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I was about to pass the runner, I called out, &quot;You're in my lane!&quot;  His reaction was... not positive.  He started yelling and cursing at me.  I don't know exactly what he said; probably something about runners being entitled to use of the bike lane, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do runners or other pedestrians have a legal right to use the bike lane&lt;/strong&gt; (not that SFPD would ever enforce this even if it were a violation), especially when there is a sidewalk available?  If this varies with the jurisdiction -- and it probably does -- then I suppose I'm most curious about what the law says where I do all of my riding, in the San Francisco bay area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Irrelevant detail: I'm a runner myself -- I do a lot more running than cycling, in fact -- and I've run on this route many times.  I really have no sympathy for those who want to run in the bike lane, just because I feel like the sidewalk is perfectly adequate for runners when it's available.  I don't ride my bike on the sidewalk, after all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2438" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-08-06T13:00:26.227" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T14:13:07.187" Title="Are runners or pedestrians allowed to use the bike lane?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6190" CreationDate="2011-09-20T00:55:13.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this situation, I usually just slow down, and ring the bell. This will get most people out of the lane.  If they refuse to move,  slow down to just a little faster than them, and  coast by. There should be enough room for a bike and a runner in the bike lane, provided the runner isn't in the middle of the lane.  People with headphones on (as many runners do) often won't hear the bell.  If you need to get off the bike or hop up on the curb to go around. No use risking your own safety for someone else's convenience. Some time this summer I actually had a bike coming the wrong way in the bike lane.  Luckily there was a lull in traffic so I could avoid the person.  A runner in the bike lane is the least of your worries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T00:55:13.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2011-09-20T03:38:34.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having used an iPhone app for over 3 months now, I can definitely say that it has been very helpful. Just make sure the phone is fully charged before the ride so that there's enough charge left, in case you need to use the phone on your way back home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more pointers on who might find a phone app useful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Someone who is primarily interested in shorter rides (around 1-2&#xA;hours or lesser) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does not need see the screen while riding (voice&#xA;feedback though not as helpful, has been decent enough for me)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is not really concerned about riding during rain. So waterproofing your device should not be high on your list. You do get phone cases, but at the core, the device is not built to be waterproof&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't want to spend a whole lot right away. A $5 app is definitely an awesome way to get a good idea about your cycling style.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is primarily interested in cycling for recreational or fitness purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Phone Apps as well as dedicated computers, allow you to do post-ride reviews. But phone apps seem to be better at integrating with a variety of web services which keep improving over time and allow for better visualizations &amp;amp; summaries as compared to a locked down report by a dedicated computer manufacturer (I'm referring to DailyMile integration by most iPhone apps).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;But the phone apps keep getting updates and bug fixes, which in some unsubstantial way could be considered to be a positive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not yet used a dedicated computer, so can't speak for that. However, people who seem to be training for centuries and more serious/pro cycling, seem to prefer a dedicated computer (or power meters which I believe a phone cannot substitute without additional hardware attachments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T03:38:34.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6135" CreationDate="2011-09-20T18:08:22.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a combination of chain degreaser (hey it works good on the chain right) and Fels Naptha soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T18:08:22.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3934" CreationDate="2011-09-20T20:04:49.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is important to keep in mind that the whole reason behind having a plan for nutrition on long rides is mainly to avoid &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.runnersworld.com/article/0,7120,s6-242-301--6263-1-2X3X5X7X8X10-6,00.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bonking&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to regularly consume carbs during long aerobic efforts. The reason for this is NOT because these carbs supply all the energy for the effort. They do not. These carbs make it possible for your body to consume fat as its energy source. Think of them as a &quot;primer&quot; that keeps the fat-burning going during an extended exertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact amount, nature and timing of the carbs consumption seems to vary quite a lot (lots of different opinions). However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sciencebasedrunning.com/2011/07/nutrition-during-a-run-yep-consuming-carbs-improves-performance/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;according to this&lt;/a&gt;, 40-60 g per hour seems to be the range that researchers have studied (that's about one &quot;power bar&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tricky part is that you have to experiment for yourself with finding the right nutrition for long rides. You don't know how much you need or what your limits are until you try it. The body needs a history of experiences to get acclimated to new challenges. Not enough water/food/sleep, too many hills, too much &quot;racing&quot;, too hot--- any of these can cause a bonk on a long ride especially when one is attempting a personal best for either distance or speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonking is not necessarily a ride-ending event. It just means that whoever it happens to will need to chill out for a while and eat something. Hopefully everyone on the ride will be cool with that if it happens. If the distance or speed is going to be very challenging for some folks, it is best to not be on a tight schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T20:04:49.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6190" CreationDate="2011-09-20T23:25:47.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As to the question of whether runners &quot;have a right&quot; to use the bike lane, that would depend on your local laws.  My guess would be &quot;yes&quot;, unless there's some specific exclusion -- the bike lane would likely fall into the same classification as other bike paths -- where pedestrians are allowed in most jurisdictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to whether they &quot;should&quot;, keep in mind that many runners feel (perhaps with some justification) that running on concrete is harder on the legs than running on asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T23:25:47.787" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6179" CreationDate="2011-09-21T01:20:09.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say your two primary options are a hitch-mount unit or something similar to those pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the hitch mount I'd advise getting a real trailer hitch, vs trying to just bolt/weld a piece of square tubing to the trailer.  The torque that a hitch-mount bike rack places on the hitch is substantial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the DIY unit you can purchase the fork mounts somewhere (I have some that I used on a trailer years back), though note that they won't work for some situations (note the extender they need for the disk brake bike on the left).  The rest of that DIY setup is so trivial I can't see bothering with something store-boughten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T01:20:09.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2011-09-21T01:54:48.217" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few folks I work with use Strava (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.strava.com&lt;/a&gt;). There are android and iphone apps, and you can also upload files from Garmin devices. Aside from the standard gps, route tracking stuff, the web site has a social focus. You can follow other riders if you wish. The site also allows you to define road segments and will show leaderboards, king of the mountain badges, and personal bests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bu4SJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2446" LastEditorUserId="1928" LastEditDate="2012-03-21T01:23:24.810" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T01:23:24.810" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-21T01:54:48.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6190" CreationDate="2011-09-21T02:00:27.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Are runners allowed to use the bike lane?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hmmm...this depends entirely on local laws. Legal in some locations. Illegal in others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If legal or otherwise, a simple verbal, &quot;...on the left...&quot; usually works. No need to be rude. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T02:00:27.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3934" CreationDate="2011-09-21T02:50:58.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK:  Muscles (and the rest of the body) need energy.  That energy can come from several sources -- both stored and swallowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blood and other body fluids contain enough blood sugar (glucose) to power the muscles for something like 15-30 minutes -- a relatively short time.  After that blood sugar will begin to drop and the muscles must draw on other sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glycogen is the next line of defense.  The body stores glycogen (effectively a form of starch) in the muscles and the liver.  When the muscles can't get enough sugar from the blood they will draw down their glycogen stores.  In addition, the liver will convert glycogen to sugar and release it into the blood stream.  I'm a little fuzzier on how long the glycogen stores are good for, but probably a couple of hours (though the more one trains on long rides, the more the muscles will build up their glycogen stores).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next the muscles will begin to draw on fat and protein.  The liver can convert these to sugar at a low level, but not fast enough to supply working muscles, so the muscles must burn them more or less directly.  Burning fat and protein produces more metabolic byproducts than burning sugar or glycogen, and, in particular, burning protein (and to a lesser degree fat) produces a lot of ketones.  Oddly, the heart burns ketones -- it's the only thing the heart can metabolize -- but exercising at a high rate with low sugar/glycogen produces a lot more ketones than the heart can burn, and more than the liver and kidneys can eliminate.  The result is a state of ketosis, where the ketones become toxic and upset the body's entire balance, resulting in a major &quot;bonk&quot;.  (The feeling of this resembles dehydration or low salt, but, unlike with those, you don't &quot;bounce back&quot; when hydration and salt balance are restored -- it takes hours or days for the body to detox itself.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically you want to keep the body supplied with sugar (which can be ingested as sugar or starch that is converted to sugar by enzymes in the gut) and also maintain the body's electrolyte balance and overall hydration.  Any way you do these is good, and probably the most critical issue is what works for you in terms of palatability and digestive comfort/function, while achieving these basic goals.  You want stuff that will be pleasant to ingest while achieving roughly the correct balance of the basic nutrients (including water).  Often your tastes will change over the hours, and, in particular, strongly flavored foods, which may taste good initially, will tend to be less palatable as the day wears on.  Also, it's necessary to be wary of ingesting too much salt/electrolyte or even simple sugar at one time, as these draw water into the gut rather rapidly, and can really upset digestion when you're somewhat dehydrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you basically don't need protein or fat, at least not in any large quantities.  A modest amount (eg, such as may be ingested in a snack containing peanuts) is fine, but there's no point in making an effort to include these, so long as you're getting some solid foods that contain modest amounts of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt;  I should mention that I have experimented with eating things like sausage sticks and jerky sticks on long rides, for the variety, and I don't recommend it.  What I found is that this sort of thing is too &quot;heavy&quot;, and the combo of salt and fat doesn't sit well on your stomach when you're mildly dehydrated and don't have time to stop and digest.  Potato chips are a better choice, if you want something with &quot;mouth feel&quot;, and they provide needed potassium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2016-12-03T23:07:35.593" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T23:07:35.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6204" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2011-09-21T02:58:08.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am keen to make this site work for everyone involved in cycling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Normal cyclists from beginner level upwards that need advice&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;People that work in local bike shops that need help with customer enquiries&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;People that work elsewhere in the trade needing to make sure customers understand their products and any 'known issues'&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To increase participation I would very much like to invite advocacy groups, product managers and others needing to reach an audience of cyclists. Having the badge 'site moderator' after my name would be most helpful in this task. It would confer authority and hopefully result in a better response. That is the why I am putting my hat into the ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the moderating team, I am from the UK where a flat is something you live in and a tire is a task that makes you tired. We have got three English languages on this site and I think it would be really good if the moderating team could have people from three continents - Australasia, North America and Europe. In that way there would always be someone moderating 24/7 with different regional perspectives considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like it if we could carry over some of the existing moderators that have set the standard and made this site what it is. To combine their experience with some new talent is what I hope we get out of this election. I don't believe that a lot of moderating is really needed, and maybe the new team needs to mentor new contributors and look outwards to foster involvement from other cycling groups rather than being focused on closing down debatable questions. A light touch is what I would like to see where moderators act on concerns raised by contributors to close questions etc. rather than instantly jump on anything that &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully the site can enter a new phase. We have seeded the site with good questions and answers, we have done the design and tailored the site to work with the SE platform. This new phase has to be a 'vision thing' where we make the site the first port of call for anything to do with bicycles, and for that to work for anyone. If there is to be a mission statement then it has to be something to do with getting the world on two wheels. Cycling is a gift we have to share, and, through this site, we can enable people to start and keep cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have worked in the cycle trade on and off since I was knee high to a Raleigh shopper bike. I do bring a certain level of insight from that, however, I have no ambition to work in the trade again and I feel that I can answer questions on this site without thinking of the commercial imperative first. However, moving forwards I hope to be writing for the blog and doing outreach work rather than answering questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current personal 'bee in my bonnet' is for the next tour. I am hoping to do Land's End to John O Groats with nothing more than a tandem, debit card and girl friend. Hopefully I will get to blog that one, maybe to inspire a few others to put touring blogs up, right here on bikes.se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't be particularly miffed if I don't get a 'moderator' badge, but, if I do get trusted with it, keep me up on my ambitions to extend the audience reach by working with me on meta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-09-21T02:58:08.673" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T02:58:08.673" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-21T02:58:08.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2011-09-21T03:08:14.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would purchase a commercial bike cover (available from plenty of places) and use that to keep the bike protected. Before putting it in storage I would use an oily rag to go over the allen key bolts, e.g. in the stem. No more than that is really needed, cleaning the bike up will remove that protective layer of dirt and grime that has built up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To better look after the tyres you may want to put the bike upside down, taking care that the shifters and seat don't get scuffed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T03:08:14.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6190" CreationDate="2011-09-21T03:19:32.977" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on the direction that they are running in. Due to bicycles being silent, cycling having priority in the bike lanes and runners not having eyes in the back of their heads, they should be running the 'wrong way', towards rather than with bike traffic. In that way they can hop out of the way of oncoming cycle traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly there is no way short of public service broadcasts on television to inform runners on the correct etiquette for running in bike lanes. However, from a UK 'Highway Code' legal perspective, pedestrians are pedestrians whether they are crawling on all fours, walking with ipod plugged in or running 'narcissus' style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T03:19:32.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-21T05:58:35.553" Score="11" ViewCount="2625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get to San Francisco from Los Angeles. I've looked at a number of options, including cycling. I have never biked such a great distance before, so I consulted &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?q=los%20angeles%20to%20san%20francisco&amp;amp;saddr=los%20angeles&amp;amp;daddr=san%20francisco&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sll=37.420345,-122.158356&amp;amp;sspn=0.633671,0.883026&amp;amp;geocode=FYqYBwIdm77z-CkT2ifcXcfCgDH0CEYlb98v4g;FVJmQAIdKAe0-CkhAGkAbZqFgDH_rXbwZxNQSg&amp;amp;vpsrc=0&amp;amp;dirflg=b&amp;amp;t=m&amp;amp;z=7&amp;amp;lci=bike&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says that the trip will take one day and nineteen hours. If I suppose I travel eight hours a day, that's like five or six days. Is that the least bit accurate in the real world?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1686" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-22T02:34:47.253" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T02:34:47.253" Title="What is a good formula to translate a Google Maps cycle time estimate into a reasonable trip time for very long distances?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6207" CreationDate="2011-09-21T07:28:08.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling speeds do vary greatly, and I'd advise to remember your average long-distance speed from a day of cycling and cut away a third to take the many unknowns and saddle soreness into account. When I cycle for half a day, for example, I usually average 15-20 kilometres an hour, so I'd expect 10-15 kilometres an hour or 100 kilometres per day for longer distances. That was close to my average on the one 3-day tour I made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you match the terrain and street conditions, though. My above estimate was for hilly, towny European terrain. In the vast reaches of colonial America, you will probably be able to go faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2353" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T07:28:08.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6207" CreationDate="2011-09-21T08:07:02.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of that specific journey, 1 day 19 hours is 43 hours and if you cycled 8 hours a day then obviously that's going to be five or six days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is that there's no one-size-fits-all answer. Touring cycling is all about the journey, less about the destination. Sure you could work out likely average speeds, but then you need to think about lunch? What if you find a lovely little roadside surprise and you take 2 hours instead of 20 minutes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you need to plan sleeping, do you book ahead and risk having to rack up the miles in the dark? Or do you try and wing it, but then risk that last place for 15 miles being full and having to turn around or search around? Or are you fully self sufficient? In which case finding places to camp might be tricky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weather has a massive part to play too, your average speed in rain or drizzle or stinking hot will likely be lower than in a cool, dry, tailwind. (Check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6119/how-to-estimate-how-long-a-tour-will-take-uk-to-greece/6120#6120&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for some good information on generating a hill profile of routes, too - that's a huge addition right there.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you've never done a journey like that before? Well, that's a whole new dimension! Centuries are relatively easy to work up to. From there back to back centuries over two days are a short step. But this could be five? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of a speed, take some time off and round it down, I think @thiton's estimate of cut off a third sounds like a reasonable idea. And whatever you guess, you'll almost certainly be wrong, but I'm sure the journey will be memorable, so I'm equally certain you won't mind being wrong in the slightest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T15:21:22.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6207" CreationDate="2011-09-21T09:29:44.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a reasonable estimate, however there is more to it than that. First of all, you are not going to be cycling the way you would drive, i.e. on the Interstate. For your particular plan you are most likely to be wanting to follow Highway 1 up the coast. This road is bicycle friendly whereas the Interstate is not. This comes at a price - more miles and more hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DlzS9.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at Highway 1 you will notice that it passes through some areas where nobody lives. The Big Sur coast down to San Simeon is rather remote, and, if you are looking for somewhere to stay over in that stretch then there are not a lot of options. Obviously San Luis Obispo and Monterey have motels, youth hostels and camp grounds to choose from so you need to do that stretch in a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pushing on from Monterey into San Francisco is doable in a day if you are fit, however, you might kick yourself later for not going round the aquarium in Monterey or not having a snoot around Santa Cruz. Therefore you may want to stay over in Half Moon Bay where there is a Youth Hostel in a lighthouse. Staying there obviously means you have a manageable trip into San Francisco and you will not have to arrive there in the dead of night, as you would if you had cycled 'robot style' all the way from Monterey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend that you budget seven days and base your individual daily rides on where to stay. You also need to bear in mind that lots of cyclists ride the entire Pacific coast route so, if you stay over in a cyclist-friendly place en-route, you may find yourself meeting up with others that are taking your exact same route. They may have started off in San Diego and have already found their cycling legs, they may also appreciate having you for company, particularly if you can set pace up hills or do turns at the front to give them a slipstream. You then might prefer riding with them and decide to do the route with them all the way, throwing your existing plans out of the window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I advise that you buy the map of the route from the Adventure Cycling Association. This will provide you with the information you need to make the most out of your ride, that is if you are doing Highway 1. That includes bike paths, where there are good places to stay and where the nearest bike shops are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes/pacificcoast.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes/pacificcoast.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T09:29:44.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6207" CreationDate="2011-09-21T11:32:44.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Route choice aside, take the miles, throw away the hours, other than as a crude comparison tool.  Examine the route profile (however you can manage) and try to classify what part of the route is flat, climbing, congested, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your personal performance in prior long rides to judge speed for each type, and do the division.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that, on an unsupported ride, you will spend time looking for food, looking for the loo, looking for a place to stay, and, generally, being lost. You need to figure that an eight hour day will only get you maybe six hours of actual up-to-speed riding in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also understand that about halfway through the second day you'll begin to feel every bone in your body hurting and will have to slow down and take more frequent breaks.  By the middle of the third day, though, you should have your &quot;sea legs&quot; and be doing a bit better, if you don't beat yourself up or short-change food and sleep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're doing 500 miles.  Unless you're an exceptionally strong cyclist and the terrain is flat (which I know it isn't) doing that in 5 days is unlikely at best.  Doing it in 6 is a maybe, and perhaps what you should plan for, but give yourself the option of taking an extra day (or two), or calling a friend to &quot;rescue&quot; you after 6.  And plan at least 24 hours recuperation after the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't forget the sunscreen!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T11:32:44.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6225" CreationDate="2011-09-21T14:09:14.180" Score="2" ViewCount="959" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, it's all right there in the title. Thx!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1835" LastEditorUserId="1835" LastEditDate="2011-09-21T14:15:16.607" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T20:42:09.203" Title="What are the most highly attended US &amp; International charity bicycle rides?" Tags="&lt;charities&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;&lt;organized-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-06-26T21:56:57.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6212" CreationDate="2011-09-21T14:33:03.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-13829703&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;London to Brighton Bike Ride&lt;/a&gt; organized by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhf.org.uk/get-involved/events/bike-rides.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;British Heart Foundation&lt;/a&gt; is the largest UK one, probably the largest in Europe. That has 27,000 participants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T14:33:03.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6190" CreationDate="2011-09-21T16:14:47.783" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most US State and Local laws are based on the Uniform Vehicle Code and American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials (AASHTO) guidelines. They will normally have a phrase like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where sidewalks are provided, it shall be unlawful for any pedestrian to walk along and upon an adjacent roadway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a phrase like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where sidewalks are not provided, any pedestrian walking along and upon a highway shall, when practicable, walk only on the shoulder on the left side of the roadway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the short answer is &quot;no&quot;, but may be different wherever you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer answer is that just like cyclist are allowed to take the lane when conditions warrant, pedestrians are allowed there when conditions warrant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately we are all trying to share a limited amount of space. Courtesy from all parties is always appreciated, and usually returned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T16:14:47.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-21T18:00:10.507" Score="10" ViewCount="1091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm cycling for urban commute, on well-maintained roads and bike paths, Vittoria Randonneur &quot;puncture resistant&quot; tires, and at no point on my ride am I more than 1/2 mile (usually within 1/4, I bet) from a bike shop.  I also presume that I'll never be without a wallet and cell phone and am in a city with good public transport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that, is there really a reason to bother carrying a patch kit or extra tube with me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2288" LastActivityDate="2011-09-24T01:34:28.943" Title="Is a tire patch kit really necessary for urban commute?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6215" CreationDate="2011-09-21T18:12:20.100" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no unique right answer to this, but I can put it two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The way you described (very low puncture risk, good external infrastructure), if it bothers me, I wouldn't carry anything but a good extra tube and a pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is not an absolute &quot;bother&quot;, I would feel WAY more carefree if I did pack a patch-kit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option allows you to change your mind if you want to stray away from your usual route, say, to ride longer, to go to a friend's house, or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you don't carry your kit everyday, chances are you will forget it at home when you go out for a non-commuting ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the extreme opposite, I definitely would not recommend riding without a spare tube and a pump, EVER! (But that's also a matter of choice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-09-23T13:28:52.830" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T13:28:52.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6215" CreationDate="2011-09-21T19:27:37.027" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, to answer this, there are a couple things to consider.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)  What are the hours or operation of the bike shops?  Do you plan to ride when the shops aren't open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  Are you sure that all the bike shops will always have your tube size in stock.  Seriously, you think they would always have 700x32 in stock, but I've had it happen enough times that it's annoying.  Not to mention the number of times I've settle for using presta when I'm really supposed to be using schraders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)  How far do you really want to walk, and what is the penalty for being late?  Walking 800 m (1/2 mile) could take around 10 minutes. In that time you could have already changed the tire. Do you lose pay when you get to work late? If this happens too much will you be seen as unreliable, and get your shifts cut? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4)  How much does a patch kit or extra tube and a frame pump really slow you down?  A patch kit can easily be stored in those bags that go under your saddle, or in your jersey pocket.  A pump can be mounted on the frame, and you probably won't even realize it's there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I don't think there's much reason not to carry a pump and spare tube.  Although it does seem useless at this point. I ran over a broken beer bottle on the weekend and heard and felt the glass crush underneath my tires. Thanks to gatorskins and tuffy tape, I didn't even have a flat.  I seriously question why I should bother.  But then 3 months ago I had a valve fail.  It's almost never the case that I get a flat from an actual puncture, but usually from pinch flats or other unexpected things.  I don't think I've ever had to use my allen keys on my commute, but I still carry them. That being said, the day you have to walk a mile because you didn't want to carry something as small as a tube and pump is the day you're going to rethink why you don't carry one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T19:27:37.027" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6215" CreationDate="2011-09-21T23:05:50.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't bother to carry a patch kit or any tools on short-distance commutes. My rule is that if I could walk home in a pinch, I don't need that stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I've had more instances of running out of spares due to multiple flats on long-distance rides than I've had instances of walking home because of a single flat on in-town rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T23:05:50.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6179" CreationDate="2011-09-22T00:28:59.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.swagman.net/category/products/rv-products/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Swagman&lt;/a&gt; model 80550 is designed to fit on the roof of pop-up campers, it will hold four bicycles. I would check with your trailer dealer to verify the roof will support the load. Model 80500 is designed to bolt onto the rear bumper of the trailer, it holds two bikes. I would think that putting the lightest bikes on the bumper rack would be the best in terms of balance for the trailer toungue weight, even a small amount of weight that far back may make a difference. I have no personal experience with either design, but they seem like they might solve your problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2452" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-09-22T19:22:01.407" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T19:22:01.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6215" CreationDate="2011-09-22T05:53:41.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to decide the best balance between&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The disadvantages of carrying a tube, pump and levers and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The disadvantages of being stranded with a flat tyre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, that's all it comes down to. Think about what you'll do if you get a flat anywhere along your commute and how much of an inconvenience it is. Then compare that to the inconvenience you experience from carrying spares and fixing a flat on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T05:53:41.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2014" CreationDate="2011-09-22T08:02:20.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the winter I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-mt60-mtb-cycling-shoes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano MT60 MTB&lt;/a&gt; shoes - really comfy, gore-tex, warm and you can run cross-country in them with a bike on your shoulder. They were fine down to -20 Centigrade last winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T08:02:20.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6227" CreationDate="2011-09-22T13:32:14.157" Score="9" ViewCount="1374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who shopped for Aero wheels recently and I heard a lot of talk about how this wheel was more rigid than that wheel and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I understand that a more rigid wheel should have less loss of energy, can it really be felt? I have entry level wheels and I don't feel any &quot;softness&quot;. Is the rigidity of a wheel something that makes a difference only when you're a racer and want to shave off a few tenths of seconds? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I guess it can be something important for heavily loaded touring bikes, but I'm more interested in &quot;racing&quot; road bikes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T18:11:54.833" Title="Wheel rigidity, is it noticeable and should I care about it?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6212" CreationDate="2011-09-22T14:13:10.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how you would find the individual rides with the highest participation, but there are a few organizations that reach thousands of cyclists across the US by holding rides in several communities.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US you tend to rarely see huge rides because the logistics and regulation hoops in many areas is to great to overcome.  Many rides are capped at 2000 or 3000 riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list below is based on my perception that they hold the larger rides in the most areas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikems.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MS Bike Rides&lt;/a&gt; (National Multiple Sclerosis Society): Most are two day rides and many rides attract 3,000 riders or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.org/Take-Action/Team-LIVESTRONG-Events/Ride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LIVESTRONG&lt;/a&gt; (Cancer - Lance Armstrong Foundation): In addition to 3-4 of their own large rides, they have begun to sponsor other large ride like RAGBRAI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tour.diabetes.org/site/PageServer?pagename=TC_homepage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tour de Cure&lt;/a&gt; (American Diabetes Association) Their site reports that between the 80 or so rides they sponsor they get 40,000 participants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of others like Team in Training, American Lung Association Rides, etc, but those three have charity rides as one of the primary fundraising activities and are fairly well known throughout the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T14:13:10.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6224" CreationDate="2011-09-22T15:22:09.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the question is about road bikes, but I submit some of my experience as MTB rider hoping to trow a little light on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a mountain biker who  has used a variety of components ranging from lower end cheap products to middle range stuff, I have noticed some differences in wheels, but especially in technical trails, rock gardens and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of mountain biking, wheel rigidity helps maneuverability, and the rider gets a more precise feeling and at least, the sensation of a faster bike reaction to rider's input. A more rigid wheel assembly also gives the rider a lot better feedback about the bike's interaction with the terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In mountain biking, wheel flex has the effect of fading the smallest vibrations produced in the tire-ground interface. This effect is further amplified trough suspension components, so it gets more difficult to &quot;feel&quot; when a tire is about to skid or to determine if you can get faster over the current ground type. Such kind of assembly can also introduce estrange vibrations thus causing incorrect feedback. (I used a wheelset that constantly gave me the false sensation of rolling on a flat tire, even if the tire was properly or overinflated)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for pedaling, I noticed a little side to side flex when climbing the steepest sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect of it, is that a flexing wheel, specially a cheap one, is more prone to  material fatigue and failure. Wheel flex is a result of the quality in the materials used and the labor qualifications while assembling, so even high end materials can be turned into a under performing wheel by inexpert or lousy labor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A properly assembled wheel will perform correctly and also will need to be trued less often. (For example, a guy once assembled a XC wheel set for me, using aluminum rims and 36 common steel spokes, which I abused with downhill use, including 3+ feet drops and very long loose rock sections, and they only had needed to be trued once after 3 years of use, and I really could tell whether they needed it because the bike uses V-brakes!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for road bikes, I have little experience, but I guess most of this still applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T15:22:09.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6224" CreationDate="2011-09-22T15:23:41.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the average rider the answer to 'should I care?' is probably not.  If you are racing a lot of time trials then it's possible that it will make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the primary benefits of a spoked-pneumatic wheel are traction and shock absorption. There is a trade off between increased rigidity (as well as higher air pressure) and both of those benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a high rigidity wheel may increase energy transfer, and decrease rolling resistance. At the same time the harsher ride is going to increase fatigue, and the added vibration over anything but the smoothest surfaces will result in a decrease in traction.  Overall for the typical rider it's probably a wash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's largely the same story for the Aero benefits as well.  Unless you are primarily concerned about going fast in solo efforts the benefit would be minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T15:23:41.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6229" CreationDate="2011-09-22T16:29:23.677" Score="6" ViewCount="2482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reading &lt;em&gt;The Time Crunched Cyclist&lt;/em&gt; and trying to work out a training plan for a century later on this year. I am having a really simple problem understanding the overunder (OU) interval shorthand. For a ride listed as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;90 min. EM with 3 x 12 min. OU (2U, 1O) (8 min. RBI)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the &lt;code&gt;(2U, 1O)&lt;/code&gt; designation for the OU interval refer to? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I'm supposed to do 3 repetitions of 12 min. at some pace with 8 minutes in between. But what is that timing/pace -- how long under and how long over? I can't seem to find it explained anywhere in the text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-09-22T17:40:24.917" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T17:57:49.203" Title="Understanding overunder intervals" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6228" CreationDate="2011-09-22T17:15:59.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a difficult time understanding this too.  the 2U, 1O stands for 2 minutes under your threshold, and 1 minute OVER your threshold.  (that's a capital letter O, not a zero, which threw me for a long time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2456" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T17:15:59.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6228" CreationDate="2011-09-22T17:52:45.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right that it's 3 intervals of 12 minutes with 8 minutes recovery between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The over and under refers to your SteadyState rate with is specific to the book, but based aerobic and lactate threshold rates - to get the heart rates right you should either take a MaxVO2 test or do the tests in the book&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example you within your three intervals you do 2 minutes at the upper end of your aerobic heart rate (the SteadyState intervals) and then one at or near your lactate threshold rate (the ClimbingRepeat rate in the book). Then repeat, so that in your 12 minute interval you get 4 'over' surges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of perceived effort, that would be 2 minutes about a 7 on a scale of 1-10 and then 1 minute at a scale of 8-9. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-09-22T17:57:49.203" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T17:57:49.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6233" CreationDate="2011-09-22T18:34:30.110" Score="12" ViewCount="9694" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a long sleeve jersey add a lot of warmth for riding during the winter months, or does a short sleeve jersey suffice during the cold. I want a jersey for my commute to work and back and I can't decide if I should get a long sleeve or short sleeve. I am in Seattle, WA so the weather goes down to around 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter. My commute is all down hill going there (I hit around 35 mph), and all up hill going back. So I do not want a jersey that will get me too hot on the ride back, but will keep my warm riding to work. Any tips or recommendations? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastActivityDate="2011-09-24T22:50:31.697" Title="Long sleeve vs. short sleeve jersey" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6232" CreationDate="2011-09-22T18:57:38.083" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with short sleeves, arm warmers and a light jacket and layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everybody has different tolerance for temperature changes, but here is what I normally wear on my upper body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;65&amp;deg;F (18&amp;deg;C) or higher: Short Sleeve Jersey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;55-65&amp;deg;F (13-18&amp;deg;C) Short Sleeve Jersey with Arm Warmers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45-55&amp;deg;F (7-13&amp;deg;C) Short Sleeve Jersey and a Jacket/Windbreaker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;35-45&amp;deg;F (2-7&amp;deg;C) Short Sleeve Jersey, Arm Warmers and Jacket - or Long Sleeve Jersey (see below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Below 35&amp;deg;F (2&amp;deg;C) PolyPro Base Layer T-shirt and a combination of the top layers...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary decision on whether to use arm warmers or a long sleeve jersey is what the temperature it is forecast to be when I head home.  If I think it's borderline or will be warm enough I pick the arm warmers in the morning so I can ride in the short sleeve on the way home.  I have about 25 short sleeve jerseys, 2 lighter and 2 heavier thermal fleece long sleeve jerseys. I rarely wear the LS above 35-40&amp;deg;F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - for flexibility you may want to look at a convertible cycling jacket where the sleeves can be removed.  That gives you additional options like using the full jacket in the morning, and using it as a vest on the ride home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-09-24T22:50:31.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-24T22:50:31.697" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6232" CreationDate="2011-09-22T18:59:25.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All other things being equal (similar material, etc.) then a long sleeved jersey is going to be much warmer than a short sleeved one, especially down to those temperatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're wavering in the middle, I'd say to use arm warmers. Certainly for those days when it's colder in the morning (perhaps it's still dark) but warmer in the evenings, it allows for a wider flexibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T18:59:25.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6232" CreationDate="2011-09-22T19:16:20.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to keep my clothing layered, and in such a way that I can re-configure mid-ride. I'm always colder when I start, so I will often start my ride with arm-warmers and a short-sleeve jersey, and peel off the arm-warmers after I warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the temperature gets lower, I'll use a long-sleeve base-layer with a short-sleeve jersey over that (my base layer is black, so i keep a jersey on to add color / visibility), and also start to add a nice warm vest (keeping your core/chest warm makes a lot of difference), and/or a long-sleeve fleece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these layers can be removed and stuck into or onto my hydration pack (or tied around the bike frame) so even if I start my ride with a fleece, jersey, and arm warmers, I could stop and peel down to just the jersey in 30 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyway, my overall suggestion is to keep a short sleeve jersey, and add arm warmers and a long-sleeve outer shell (fleece or a wind-proof jacket)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T19:16:20.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6232" CreationDate="2011-09-22T21:44:01.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also live in the Pacific NW climate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I do....when it's not summer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short sleeve jersey, arm warmers, plus a wind protective vest. This gives me the options of adding and subtracting layers to get to the right comfort level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A GORE windstopper jersey. The front panels are made with a &quot;wind stopping&quot; fabric. The sleeves zip off. This is one of the best bicycling clothing products I ever bought. This works well for me and seems like it may fit your criteria. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently use the Gore Windstopper jersey, but that is not to say that other manufacturers don't have similar products. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as others have mentioned, layering is key. I have a variety of base layers (Craft, UnderArmour, etc) to utilize depending on the conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;One other note...back in the 90's my commute was from the top of Capitol Hill to the Seattle Center area. My morning attire was usually a base layer, short sleeve jersey, arm warmers and a somewhat water repellent wind shell (and maybe a fleece layer on really cold days). I subtracted whatever necessary for the ride back up the hill in the afternoon.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-09-23T22:43:42.630" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T22:43:42.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6232" CreationDate="2011-09-22T23:09:19.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine riding in the winter with short sleeves, even with a jacket over them.  Perhaps I'm just too sensitive to the cold or perhaps the climate here is just a lot colder than the northwest, but short sleeves don't come out of the closet until April.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2459" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T23:09:19.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-22T23:21:05.013" Score="32" ViewCount="52627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying a mountain bike and have narrowed it down to two models (make and model aren't important for this question).  One model is a full suspension bike (front and back), the other is front suspension only.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages/disadvantages to going with a full suspension vs front suspension? (I'd prefer answers from people with experience riding both types of bikes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer some of the questions looking for more detail...  The 2 bikes are roughly in the same price range, around $1000 USD (the full suspension is &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; more money), and my plans are to ride it primarily in some single track trails that are in the area.  There will be a lot of hills and rocks and such.  I doubt there will be any on-road riding involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2459" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2011-09-23T17:47:30.440" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T02:14:16.477" Title="Front suspension or full suspension mountain bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1429" CreationDate="2011-09-22T23:30:19.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I store my bikes in my unheated garage and hang them from the ceiling.  I hang them from the frame and not the wheels to make sure that there are no issues with the rims deforming over that time.  Otherwise, I don't do much else to them.  I don't go out of my way to clean them up as I'm never quite sure when I put them up if it's just for a week or the whole season.  I've never had an issue come spring with any parts corroding or not working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2027" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T23:30:19.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6247" CreationDate="2011-09-23T03:11:19.477" Score="9" ViewCount="10544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only recently started riding to work and I've been given a bike by a friend which is in reasonably good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the way things are working out I keep the front gear in the same position and change the back one between 4, 5 and 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trip is very hilly so I like to switch over to 6 as I near the top of a hill so I can continue pedaling as soon as possible at the base of the next hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the bike changes quite readily between all other gears 1 - 5, except going up from 5 to 6. Going down 6 - 5 works fine. This means more effort when trying to go up the next hill. Sometimes the gear kicks in just before I want to switch back down to 5 again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a 7th gear on the back that I don't use, so the 6th is not the highest choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem occurs regardless of if I'm going up, down or on a flat grade. It also doesn't help if I try switching back down to 5 and trying again, it just seems to kick in randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on what I can see could be causing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2460" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-01T04:47:16.830" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T04:47:16.830" Title="Bike not changing correctly between two gears" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6240" CreationDate="2011-09-23T06:40:11.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's always difficult to tell without seeing it, but since it's shifting well in all gears except one (and in one direction on that one) - check for any bent teeth on the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea to check the state of the derailleur and make sure your end-stops are set correctly as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T06:40:11.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6240" CreationDate="2011-09-23T09:11:59.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a fairly common problem that happens when the derailleur cable gets past its sell-by-date. Only a small amount of deterioration in the condition of the cable is needed to make shifting less than perfect. If the bike has been in storage for a while then a localised patch of oxidation can set in to affect one bit of the shifting range, where this is depends on what gear the bike was last used in. You can also get a kink in the cable that might have been made when the bike was initially setup. Such a kink will also give unpredictable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can pop the cable out and give it a lube to see if that fixes the problem. Put the chain on the big sprocket and then shift the lever to the position for the little sprocket but without pedalling. This will give maximum slack. The cable guides on the frame should have little slots in them, you can now pull the outers out and be able to move the outers up and down on the inners. Be careful to not bend the inner if doing this. Give the inners a good clean with 'GT85' or other water-displacing light lube, make sure everything is clean and put it all back together again. You now need to make sure that the outers are all of the way in on the cable stops, stress the inner a bit to do this by pulling the inner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give the bike another test but expect problems to persist or be even worse. If this has not fixed the problem go straight for a new cable inner and outer. A new cable will be silky smooth, however, this will require tools to cut the cable outers to length and shape the ends nicely. Plus you don't want the inner to have a frayed end. Your regular pliers just won't cut it. If you cannot borrow a nice pair of Shimano cable cutters, take it into a bike shop and get them to do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a new kink-free and corrosion free cable your gear changes will be a lot smoother and index properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely that grime on the derailleur or sprockets is the cause of the problem. Even if the derailleur wheels and sprockets are solidly built up with gunk this should not affect shifting. This is more likely to result in the gears slipping (but staying in gear rather than not indexing across the range).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also highly unlikely that you have bent teeth on the sprockets, if you did then you would not be able to ride '6' at all, which you can if the indexing lets you do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarise, the magic bullet here is a new cable. You can try to clean up the existing cable and that might work, however, putting in a new cable will save you a lot of time and give you gears that are a joy to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-09-23T15:28:01.407" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T15:28:01.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6240" CreationDate="2011-09-23T11:16:03.967" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many miles on this bike?  If over 5000 miles (8000km) then your rear gear cluster may be worn out.  Your symptoms are most strongly suggestive of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the first thing to do is to clean the derailer real well.  Lean the bike against a wall (derailer facing you) outside somewhere where a few oil stains won't be a problem.  Shove some newspaper or cardboard up behind the derailer and drape it over the tire, to keep stuff from dripping on the tire.  Then spray the derailer well with a spray solvent (WD40 in the US) and scrub it with an old toothbrush.  Dry the derailer well with an old rag, and lubricate with chain oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the derailer clean, swivel it back and forth by hand and notice if it seems to be twisting in parallel with the chain and sprockets or is perhaps bent so that it goes at an angle.  If it seems bent (which happens from dropping the bike on its side) then the &quot;derailer hanger&quot; probably needs to be straightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, pay attention to the shifters and cables.  A little spray lube in the shifters and down the shifter cable housings is generally all that's needed here, unless the cables are badly corroded or beginning to fray, in which case they need to be replaced.  Be careful, though, about what sort of lube you put on the shifters as most now have plastic components that can be damaged by strong solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, it's probably time to adjust the derailer, but that a whole different post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T11:16:03.967" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6238" CreationDate="2011-09-23T13:19:38.570" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advantages of a front suspended bike is that holding the handlebar in off-road downhill is way less tiring and comfortable, and above a certain speed (and if the fork suspension is good enough) you will have much better grip on the ground and steering/braking control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that if you can't lock the suspension you might feel it's absorbing power when you're pushing hard on pedals (you will mostly want to lock it only on very smooth uphill surfaces). Also consider a little more weight (air suspension is not that heavy, though), and periodical maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is true if you add a rear suspension, but &lt;em&gt;doubled&lt;/em&gt;: the downhill comfort and control is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; greater, and you'll have greater comfort even on rough uphills (this makes a full suspended bike very suitable for long &lt;em&gt;all mountain&lt;/em&gt; rides).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the downside is &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; power absorption (but there are good technologies to limit this, ex: Fox's Pro Pedal), some more weight and maintenance and quite a lot more money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you think you'll be going off-road for most of your time, trying to be fast in downhill, or having long mountain rides, or you have back troubles, I'd suggest a full suspended bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're mostly riding roads and country tracks, a front suspended bike will be more suited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that with both bikes you still can ride both kind of paths, but of course they're better on those they were designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've been riding both on- and off-road, with rigid, front and full suspended bikes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T13:19:38.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6238" CreationDate="2011-09-23T13:20:19.753" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we assume that &lt;strong&gt;both models are at about the same price point&lt;/strong&gt;, here is what you can expect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hardtail will be substantially lighter than a comparably priced full-suspension bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hardtail will likely have a higher level of components and possibly a better front shock because of the increased expense associated with the full suspension frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unless you can lock out the rear suspension, you will have higher pedal efficiency on the hardtail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your style of riding may dictate that an full-suspension is appropriate, so the best thing to do would be to describe how you want to ride to the professionals at your local bike shop and listen to their advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an admitted bias toward hardtails (and even fully rigid bikes). I've been riding a long time (since before mountain bikes existed...), and don't really ride anything seriously aggressive off-road (but I have ridden a lot of Utah Red Rock Desert).  I've tried several full-suspension bikes, but for my type and style of riding I've not been convinced that the added cost to get to a similar weight/component mix was worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T13:20:19.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6238" CreationDate="2011-09-23T15:51:55.037" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Let me introduce you to the term 'Bicycle Shaped Object'...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 'Bicycle Shaped Object' (BSO) is not to be confused with a real bicycle. You get them in department stores, catalogue shops and supermarkets. They look like bicycles but they are not. Some BSOs come with 'full suspension' and this is the older patent-free design that gives 'pedal bob' - as you pedal the rear suspension goes up and down each time you pedal. There is no effort made in the design to separate 'suspension' from 'transmission' so it all inter-relates badly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That said, if you were doing something like a paper-round and needed to get up and down kerbs then a BSO with hideous full suspension will be okay. To actually go on anything that looks like a mountain with it then you will quickly learn that you have a BSO rather than a real bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to real bikes, if you have the money, then you will be completely sold on full suspension 'normal' mountain bikes as soon as you ride on the slightest rough surface with one. Do note that there are all kinds of full suspension bikes nowadays, including 'downhill only' ones that are heavy unwieldy beasts with acres of suspension travel that only make sense if you don't do that pedalling thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the high end full suspension models designed for the trail, also feel the weight of them. Some models from the top brands are now amazingly light considering the mechanical complexity of them. Part of the expense of these bikes comes down to patent royalties. The suspension and the transmission forces are separated and you do not get obviously problematic pedal bob. In my opinion full suspension bikes are quicker over rough terrain because you 'float' over the rocks rather than take a hit out of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decade ago I was very sceptical of full suspension, nowadays, with lightweight models that have sensible geometry, I am fully sold. Plus they look cool and you feel good riding one. If the money isn't there for something sensibly high end, or if you do a lot of riding on the road, then go hardtail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T15:51:55.037" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6238" CreationDate="2011-09-23T16:20:43.123" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;This choice really does depend on what kind of terrain you will be riding on. I'm also assuming you are intending to buy a quality full suspension bike. Anything under like $800-$1,000 USD, don't bother. Go hard tail with a good fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bumpier the terrain, the more a full suspension bike will help suck up the hard hits. You can really fly over rocks and roots and things on a full suspension, that would beat you up more or kick the bike out a bit on a hard tail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I'd say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full Suspension:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+ More stable at speed over rough terrain (get bounced around less)&#xA;+ Faster over rough terrain, flat or downhill&#xA;+ Overall more comfortable for a long ride&#xA;- Increased cost&#xA;- Increased complexity and maintenance&#xA;- Slower on climbs&#xA;- Lower pedaling efficiency (slower in a sprint) (shock with a lockout helps)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard Tail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+ Faster on climbs and sprints&#xA;+ Reduced cost&#xA;+ Reduced complexity and maintenance&#xA;+ Frame geometry less important (no linkages and travel arcs to think about)&#xA;+ Faster on roads and smooth trails, if you don't always do technical rough offroad&#xA;  trails (generally better all-purpose?)&#xA;- Hard to blow quickly over rough rocky terrain (get bounced around a lot)&#xA;- Increased rider fatigue over longer distances&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I only ride full suspension offroad any more. My hardtail got re purposed into a paved/gravel trail bike with skinnier tires (and now that I finally bought a road bike, it just sits unused)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T06:41:23.307" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T06:41:23.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6253" CreationDate="2011-09-23T16:36:16.020" Score="2" ViewCount="3736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 bikes (mountain and road) sometimes I use them in races (mostly MTB) so I don't want to have any fixed accessory on them. I'm looking for a child seat (or rack where a seat can be mounted) that goes mounted to the seat-post so that I can easily replace the seat and post and mount the seat. I've seen some mechanisms that go into the frame. I thought they could also be mounted in the seat post but I'm afraid it's not a very good idea as the seat and baby weight would be too high and compromise stability and safety when riding. Does anybody have any idea? I'm afraid I'll have to get another bike for that purpose :-P.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also though of bike trolleys but they may be too big, expensive and too sluggish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastEditorUserId="2459" LastEditDate="2011-09-23T17:14:59.980" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T23:36:02.143" Title="Child seat (or rack) at the seat post" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6252" CreationDate="2011-09-23T17:08:08.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seat post racks have limited carrying capacities, and none of them are safe for carrying children. A rack specifically rated for heavy loads is the only safe way to attach a child seat. Do you want your seatpost rack collapsing with a child in the seat? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to put racks on your bikes permanently but use your existing bikes, you can acquire a child trailer (is that what you mean by a &quot;bike trolley&quot;?) and put a hitch on each bike. That'll fit your requirements of not installing anything on the bikes (except the trailer hitch at the rear axle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are trailers available that are surprisingly light, but you're correct that they can be expensive. But a new bike will be more expensive, unless it's a terribly cheap one - and do you want your child carried on a bike like that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site has also had several other &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/child-seat&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;child-seat&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;child-seat&lt;/a&gt; questions that might help give you some background: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/5869/8&quot;&gt;What kind of bike rack can go with this bike?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt; &lt;em&gt;question asking about attaching a child rack to a full-suspension bike&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/5333/8&quot;&gt;What's the best way for a beginner cyclist to carry children?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;discusses the differences between using child seats and trailers&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T17:14:09.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6252" CreationDate="2011-09-23T17:14:45.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closest thing I have seen is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weeride.com/Kangaroo-Center-Mounted-Child-Bicycle-Carrier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WeeRide Kangaroo&lt;/a&gt; that places the child in front of you.  the support bar attaches to the seatpost and to the head tube, so if you had a second seat post you could leave the bar attached to that end and just connect it at the head tube. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/02i5c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;WeRide Kangaroo Child Seet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of anything that attaches just to the seat post, as the physics involved would cause pretty high torsional force at the point of attachment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this related question on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5136/toddler-bike-seat-vs-bike-trailer&quot;&gt;toddler seat v. trailer&lt;/a&gt; for other child carrying options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T17:14:45.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6257" CreationDate="2011-09-23T17:44:23.033" Score="19" ViewCount="39869" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can cyclists ride on the sidewalk? What if the road in question has no bike lane? If cyclists can ride on the sidewalk, does it matter which side of the road the sidewalk is on? I live in California - would the law vary by state or locality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other concerns outside of the legality to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2419" LastEditorUserId="2221" LastEditDate="2011-09-27T21:42:37.157" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T14:42:52.547" Title="Can cyclists legally ride on the sidewalk?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2011-09-23T18:09:18.587" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The law regarding sidewalk cycling varies widely, but in general it is legal as long as you are traveling cautiously, yielding and giving pedestrians the right-of-way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it usually is &lt;strong&gt;not a very smart thing to do&lt;/strong&gt;, especially to ride against traffic on the sidewalk as you described.  The most common accidents involving cars and cyclists occur at intersections and driveways.  When you are on the sidewalk going either way you are already nearly invisible to a motorist.  It's particularly bad when you are riding against traffic because the habit of most drivers is to look left (in the US) when they approach an intersection or pull out of a driveway, and you are approaching at an unusually high rate of speed for a sidewalk user, and from the opposite direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short - &lt;strong&gt;riding on the sidewalk and against traffic is the most dangerous way to travel on a bike other than to ride unlighted at night&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0262560704&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Forester&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;Cyclists fare best when they act and are treated as drivers of vehicles.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T18:09:18.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2011-09-23T18:11:35.407" Score="33" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Safety&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, &lt;strong&gt;riding on the sidewalk is more dangerous than riding on the road.&lt;/strong&gt; There's higher risk from cars coming out of driveways than cars overtaking you from behind. Generally cars aren't looking for anything on a sidewalk moving more than about 3-4 mph, there's often visual obstacles (trees, sign posts, etc) so you're likely to be invisible to cars that might turn into you. Going against the direction of traffic gives everybody a bit less time to react to anything going wrong and puts you on the side car drivers typically aren't looking in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's legal on a specific block, I might ride slowly (5mph, 8mph tops) for a block on the sidewalk to get to a spot where I can get onto the road properly. But be extra-aware of all driveways and side streets. I might also ride on the sidewalk for under 10 feet when coming off of the road via a driveway or curb cut in order to stop and lock up my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Check your local laws&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no statewide California law prohibiting operating a bicycle on a sidewalk, however &lt;a href=&quot;http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21206.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;California Vehicle Code Section 21206&lt;/a&gt; allows local (county, city, etc) governments to regulate operation of bicycles on pedestrian facilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, there is no California-wide answer to the legality. It may be illegal in the specific area you were riding, but legal on the next block over or legal on the other side of the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the city I live in (in California), it's illegal in two defined &quot;downtown&quot; areas, but otherwise legal. In some cities it's illegal to ride on the sidewalk anywhere in the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or perhaps it's simpler to explain that California Vehicle Code Section 21650(g) explicitly allows riding on sidewalks and through crosswalks, unless prohibited by local ordinance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T06:59:11.060" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T06:59:11.060" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6252" CreationDate="2011-09-23T18:29:19.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely try to get rid of one of your constraints: attaching things to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are riding carbon (in which case ANY child-carrying device would be practically &quot;forbidden&quot;), it is not to difficult to &quot;build&quot; or adapt a rear rack to the lower seatstays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden with my kid until he had 50 pounds, and getting him firmly supported from below (via the rack legs attached directly to the frame) was very important. Also, I had a handlebar mounted to the seatpost, and a generous foam padding (I made this seat at home).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding with a kid &quot;hanging&quot; from the seatpost is something I would strongly advise NOT to do, both for mechanical safety and also for father's balance and control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see us riding here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/lhm3tGFauUs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/lhm3tGFauUs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T18:29:19.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1021" CreationDate="2011-09-23T18:29:25.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;EBay is your best bet. It actually has a wealth of parts--they just go fast! Set up a saved search for what you are looking for, and it will email you when a match appears!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T18:29:25.957" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-23T18:29:25.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6224" CreationDate="2011-09-23T19:06:30.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is akin to, &quot;I have a Chevy and a buddy of mine went into a BMW dealership...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are happy in the Chevy, do not test drive the BMW! Once you do, you will likely notice all sorts of inefficiencies that you did not previously :-( &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Jahaziel and Gary.Ray point out aerodynamics, bike handling and overall comfort are all factors and ultimately personal choice. Mix into the equation average miles per ride, type of terrain, road surface, rider weight, typical wind and climate conditions and the variables are unfortunately endless...this is both the beauty and the curse of finding the perfect set up! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the fact that you mentioned racing, I encourage you to hit the BMW dealership or in this case the LBS! Most shops have test wheels...so give a few a whirl and make your own experienced/educated decision.  A good set of wheels is the single most significant upgrade to any steed!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden all types and many brands...so do not hesitate to ask more specific questions about manufacturers or models!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1446" LastEditorUserId="1446" LastEditDate="2011-09-23T19:32:16.907" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T19:32:16.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2011-09-23T19:12:52.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read on a Shimano disc-brake manual that you should leave the skewer to the opposite side of the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is so because, THEORETICALLY, some skewer levers could be turned beyond their closed position (parallel to the fork blade), and its tip could block the disk, causing a fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practically speaking, I have never seen any skewer, be it in my bike or others', in such a position. Besides, since Shimano skewer is assymmetrical, it is much harder to get a good position if you mount it on the side opposite to the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of skewer orientation, I prefer closing it &quot;upwards&quot;, so the closed lever is parallel to the fork blade, pointing up, with just enough room to wrap the fingers around it, and never too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T19:12:52.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6177" CreationDate="2011-09-23T21:23:31.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are feeling the chainslap only while careening down a steep bumpy downhill ( not doing alot of cranking) try using the middle or big chainring,this raises the derailleur and makes the chain less likely to slap as it is farther from the chainstay.Of course this is not a band-aid for driveline misadjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2452" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T21:23:31.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2011-09-23T21:54:07.730" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of several cities in the US that prohibit biking (or skateboarding) on the sidewalks in &quot;downtown&quot; (which definition varies widely, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even when it's allowed (which is, I think, the norm in the US, outside of those certain zones), it's not very wise to do on a relatively busy city street if there are lots of driveways.  It's very common for accidents to occur when a car turns into a driveway in the path of a bike, and leaping from the curb on your bike at intersections is a big hazard, even when you'd nominally have the right-of-way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general you should stay off of sidewalks unless you're progressing a the pace of a 5-year-old on training wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't know what the basis was for &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/posts/6255/revisions&quot;&gt;the guy yelling at you&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T15:59:43.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6232" CreationDate="2011-09-23T22:42:14.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I have ever seen,let alone heard of arm warmers. It doesn't get as hot here,  but in summer I wear a t shirt or vest and in winter a long sleeved top over that. If it is raining I will wear a waterproof top as well but any more layers would make me overheat on anything over a ten minute cycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T22:42:14.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6215" CreationDate="2011-09-24T01:34:28.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think how fortunate you would feel to be able to help a fellow cyclist who happened to get his /her second flat of the morning by handing them a patch to help them on their way.I believe what goes around comes around, maybe they would help you while walking the 1/2 mile to you bike shop to fix your bike.Sometimes it is worth taking a just in case item for the circumstance that you just can't predict.Most of us ride for the enjoyment and a few ounces won't really impact that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2452" LastActivityDate="2011-09-24T01:34:28.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1060" CreationDate="2011-09-26T00:01:54.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried the GoPro for a while and there were several things I didn't like about it, or where I felt it fell short.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm now looking at buying one of the &quot;tough&quot; cameras produced by almost all of the major camera manufacturers which have several advantages over something like the GoPro or the ATC3K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I didn't like about the GoPro are...&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - The weight on my head when used on the helmet (could cause my helmet to shift).&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - No screen, so you can only review footage once transferred to the computer. Transferring also takes a long time. You can get an add-on screen now, but this will add bulk and weight.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - No zoom, so for instance the wide angle cannot even show red-light runners, as the lights on the far side of the intersection (perpendicular to my direction), are too far away to show up on the video.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Menus are difficult to use and you have to remember the abbreviations they use.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - The square shape is bulky. I didn't try it strapped to my arm because it would be too uncomfortable whilst cycling.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - The handlebar mounts are kind of bulky and can be fiddly to fit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - It interfered with my wireless speedo when mounted right next to it (the speedo numbers went haywire).&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Enclosure can fog up requiring the purchase of, and fiddling with, anti-fog inserts.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_digital.asp?section=tough&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Olympus&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.panasonic.com/consumer-electronics/shop/Cameras-Camcorders/LUMIX-Digital-Cameras-Point-amp-Shoot-Models/model.DMC-TS3D_11002_7000000000000005702&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panasonic&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sony.com.au/product/dsc-tx10/sku/dsc-tx10_b++au2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sony&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/digital_cameras/powershot_d10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Canon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/coolpix/allweather/aw100s/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nikon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/xp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fuji&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://us.toshiba.com/video-electronics/camcorders/camileo-bw10-y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toshiba&lt;/a&gt; all produce &quot;tough&quot; cameras that are resistant to water, shock, dust and so on to varying degrees.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Of course the models vary but typically they have these advantages over the GoPro or ATC3K&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HD video (either 720p or 1080p)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screen! Particularly important for reviewing before transferring to a computer (which can take a long time), but also for framing the shot!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The screen also means you can use the camera for other things such as holidays, snorkelling etc. The GoPro is limited in that sense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optical zoom (not the Toshiba)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optical image stabilisation (each model differs).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Far greater customisation of shooting settings (except for lower end like the Toshiba).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Usually slimmer form factor. Not so bulky. No need for external enclosure that can fog up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Longer record times (than ATC3K). (check each model for differences).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically better lens, sensor and image processing quality from the larger photographic companies. (this is a bit of a blanket statement, so make your own judgements about quality, or check trusted reviews).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quite a few have GPS now if you're interested in Geotagging or mapping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't bought one of these yet (but I will be) so check the reviews and specifications and make your own decisions of course.   I may post a table of comparison specs here if I do my own comparison table.&#xA;The come for a variety of budgets from about $100 for the Toshiba, up to $400 or more for the Panasonic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interest is for problems with motorists but also recording interesting stuff while touring. It is not always possible to stop and take photos or video. Another application is for contributing to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.opencyclemap.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Open Cycle Map&lt;/a&gt; which is a whole other topic in itself, but is a brilliant project. Check it out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next is, how to mount it to the bike? I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rigidmount.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rigidmount.com/&lt;/a&gt; which have some mounts that allow you to mount a standard digital compact to your bike using the tripod mount found on almost all compact digital cameras. They also have some general information about what to look for in a camera, how to edit video and remove shake etc. See the &quot;Information&quot; menu on that site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-10-09T02:46:40.823" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T02:46:40.823" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2011-09-26T08:32:47.713" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a useful question beyond the continental US. Please add countries you know about to the appropriate section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Biking on the sidewalk is a violation of traffic law in:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NSW Australia&lt;/strong&gt;, unless you are a child under 12 years of age. An adult, who is riding in a supervisory capacity of a cyclist less than 12 years old, may also ride with the young cyclist on the footpath.  You are allowed to cycle on the footpath where indicated by signage. (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/roadsafety/bicycles/cyclingrules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;NSW Roads and Traffic Authority&quot;&gt;NSW Roads and Traffic Authority&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;France&lt;/strong&gt;, except for children up to 8 years old.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finland&lt;/strong&gt;, except for children up to 12 years old or on either unsegregated cycle and pedestrian paths, or the cycle half of segregated paths (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lvm.fi/c/document_library/get_file?folderId=24398&amp;amp;name=DLFE-1102.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pdf&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Germany&lt;/strong&gt;, with the following exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are under the age of 8 you have to use the sidewalk, if you are under 10 you may use the sidewalk. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/00vcC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Radfahrer frei&quot;&gt; allows the use of bicycles on the sidewalk&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k2reQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; designates a way that actually is a bikeway. You have to use it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aC8UZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; and &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ITrle.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; turn the sidewalk into a combination of bikeway and sidewalk. As with regular bikeways there is a obligation to use it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Netherlands&lt;/strong&gt; (actively fined especially in town centres)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UK&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highwaycode/DG_069837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 64 of the Highway Code&lt;/a&gt; states &quot;You MUST NOT cycle on a pavement.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under the age of 10 it's still illegal, but generally not enforced &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridingabike.co.uk/html/cycling_myths_busted.html#CP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (and you can't be prosecuted anyway below &lt;a href=&quot;http://webarchive.nationalarchives.gov.uk/+/www.direct.gov.uk/en/CrimeJusticeAndTheLaw/Thejudicialsystem/DG_4003100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the age of criminal responsibility&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Home Office advice is that police should use discretion if cyclists are using the pavement (sidewalk) considerately, and out of fear of other road users &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/news/108119-transport-minister-responsible-cyclists-can-ride-pavement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2014 story confirming 1999 advice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Signs similar to the blue German ones above indicate provision of shared paths, but note that neither dedicated cycle lanes, nor provision on paths shared with pedestrians etc. are mandatory (cycle lanes with a solid lane are described in the Highway Code as &quot;mandatory&quot;, but this means that it is mandatory that motor vehicles keep out, not that cyclists use them). Pavements designated as shared use path are typically no more or less suitable for sharing than those that aren't, and signage is often misleading or missing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The prohibition is technically on footpaths &lt;em&gt;beside a highway&lt;/em&gt; or similar, so paved footpaths not adjacent to a road are not subject to the same restriction unless local byelaws apply &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikehub.co.uk/featured-articles/cycling-and-the-law/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Cycling and the law&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ireland&lt;/strong&gt; (illegal but not an offence unless cycling “without reasonable consideration”). In August 2015 &lt;a href=&quot;http://irishcycle.com/2015/07/19/cycling-fines-what-you-need-to-know-from-august-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;on-the-spot fines for different cycling offences were introduced&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. A fine for cycling on the footpath was in a draft list of fines  but was removed because of parents with children or those who fear danger of cycling on road while not endangering pedestrians. However, reckless cycling on footpaths is covered by the fine for cycling “without reasonable consideration”.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;..?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Biking on the sidewalk is allowed in:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Queensland, Australia&lt;/strong&gt; - cyclists of any age are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/Travel-and-transport/Cycling/Bike-user-guide/Road-rules-for-cyclists.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;allowed to ride on a footpath&lt;/a&gt; unless prohibited by a 'NO BICYCLES' sign — you must give way to pedestrians and ride in a manner that does not inconvenience or endanger other footpath users.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Local laws govern sidewalk cycling in:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;USA&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;California&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in Berkeley, it's illegal to ride bikes on the sidewalk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sfbike.org/?sidewalks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;San Francisco&lt;/a&gt; it's illegal for anyone 13 years of age or older.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.activetrans.org/bicyclists-and-law/illinois-statutes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Illinois&lt;/a&gt; unless otherwise indicated by local ordinance, riding on sidewalks is permitted.  However, it is almost always prohibited in business districts, and many municipalities have general prohibitions for adults.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.activetrans.org/bicyclists-and-law/chicago-code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chicago&lt;/a&gt; prohibits riding on sidewalks at 12 years of age and over, and in business districts at any age.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sterlingcodifiers.com/codebook/getBookData.php?section_id=932055&amp;amp;keywords=bicycle#s932055&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oak Park&lt;/a&gt; prohibits riding on sidewalks at 15 years of age and over, and in business districts at any age.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dot.state.mn.us/sharetheroad/stuff/materials/bicycle-law-summary.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minnesota&lt;/a&gt;: It is illegal to ride on sidewalks in business districts unless locally permitted. Local ordinances may prohibit bicycling on sidewalks in other areas.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vbgov.com/residents/sports-recreation/pages/bicycle-laws.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Virginia Beach, Virginia&lt;/a&gt;: Bicycles may be ridden on sidewalks unless prohibited by local ordinance or traffic control devices. While on sidewalks and shared use paths, bicyclists must always yield the right of way to pedestrians and give an audible signal before passing a pedestrian.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Canada&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vancouver: it's illegal to ride bikes on the sidewalk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toronto: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toronto.ca/cycling/safety/sidewalk/sidewalk.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Sidewalks are for Pedestrians&quot;&gt;Sidewalks are for Pedestrians&lt;/a&gt; says, &quot;A City bylaw allows cyclists with a tire size of 61cm or 24 inches or less to ride on the sidewalk. The intent of this bylaw is to allow young children to cycle on the sidewalk while they learn to ride. The bylaw is based on wheel size because it is difficult for Police to enforce age-based bylaws, as most children do not carry identification. This is a municipal bylaw and rules vary in communities across Ontario.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Etobicoke: signs say that bicycles are forbidden on sidewalks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Biking on the sidewalk is mandatory of traffic law in:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Romania&lt;/strong&gt; If there is a bicycle path on the sidewalk you have to ride on it. Riding in the street where there is a path on the sidewalk is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;..?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I'm marking this cw so anybody can add countries they know about.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2017-07-25T14:42:52.547" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T14:42:52.547" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-26T08:32:47.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6272" CreationDate="2011-09-26T09:49:57.057" Score="15" ViewCount="20438" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you solve the problem of stained jeans? I'd prefer to avoid modifying the bike itself or rolling up the hem on my pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, riding with short pants is out of question, now that the winter is coming :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastEditorUserId="529" LastEditDate="2011-09-26T19:43:24.023" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T20:52:53.750" Title="How can I avoid getting chain grease on my trouser leg" Tags="&lt;clothing-care&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2011-09-26T10:47:32.967" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I have always done, quite successfully, is just tuck my trousers into my socks. This avoids all grease from the chain, and if the worst happened and I did get some grease on my sock this would be hidden under my trousers at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And yes, I tuck both trouser legs into my socks to avoid looking too silly, even though the chain is only on one side :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T10:47:32.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2011-09-26T11:10:15.850" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leg straps or clips (especially on the chain side) are the way to go.  Not only does this keep the pant leg clean, but it prevents the cuff from chafing or hanging up on something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can improvise with a large rubber band, but the Velcro straps are readily available and very easy to get on/off.  When not in use they can be wrapped around your seat post or some such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And if the straps -- you can use two per leg for really baggy pants -- don't do it you can buy &quot;gaiters&quot; that cover the entire ankle and lower shin.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-09-26T15:39:34.597" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T15:39:34.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2011-09-26T18:12:33.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I think is the simplest (and one I do myself) is to just roll up your trouser legs. You can see an example of what I mean in this picture &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.terrybicycles.com/core/media/media.nl?id=5180&amp;amp;c=1243446&amp;amp;h=5020f1edd4fce298758b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.terrybicycles.com/core/media/media.nl?id=5180&amp;amp;c=1243446&amp;amp;h=5020f1edd4fce298758b&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;The advantages of this method are that your trouser legs won't get greased, it allows your legs to be cooler because they are working so hard, and if your trouser legs do get greased it is on the inside of the leg and once unrolled will never be seen again. I usually roll mine up a few times to hold them in place and roll them pretty high. I do both legs so that neither of them can get caught in my water bottle holder. Ever since I started doing this, I have not once gotten grease on the outside of my trouser legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T18:12:33.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2011-09-26T18:57:13.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like maybe one approach you have taken is to bicycle in shorts and carry your pants as cargo.  Even without a changing area it shouldn't be a big deal to slip on a pair of pants between the bike rack and the office.  If your concern is winter cold, maybe you can get a pair of cycling tights pants, perhaps with thermal insulation, over which you can slip your dress slacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2481" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T18:57:13.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2011-09-26T21:11:39.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbondrivesystems.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;belt drive&lt;/a&gt; to avoid the problem completly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs no grease at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not own one yet, but heard only the best of it and want to test it soon. No, I am not working for or in the company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, it sounds it's not a real option for you, as you would have to open the frame to mount the belt. But I think this belt drive is so promising to be mentioned in this context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2482" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T21:11:39.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2011-09-27T04:14:19.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do you solve the problem of stained jeans? I'd prefer to avoid modifying the bike itself or rolling up the hem on my pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I usually do, and completely solves the problem of stained clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- &quot;Change clothes at work.&quot; Both &quot;to and from&quot;.--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple. Cycling clothes on the commute and work clothes at work. The cycling clothes may or may not get greasy and there is no reason to care about it. However, the separated work clothes remain perfectly acceptable for the work environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this may or may not work for everyone; but, I just change clothes. (Changing clothes simply requires a restroom stall or perhaps a company shower area for maybe 8 minutes at most.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As others posted, pants rolled, in the sock, or strapped to the leg may work...or maybe not...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to roll up trousers, stuff socks, wear gaiters, pant-clips, full-chain-guard, etc....none necessary if you just change clothes....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;BTW - My current commute is up and over one big hill, and 2 smaller ones along the way. If it were all flat and easy, I'd just use trouser cuffs and ride in street clothes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-10-01T04:16:20.460" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T04:16:20.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6278" CreationDate="2011-09-27T06:40:34.887" Score="8" ViewCount="7463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a bmx and after doing a few tricks on it, the &lt;strong&gt;front-load&lt;/strong&gt; stem became loose enough for the bars to slide forward (they rotated towards me about the point the bars were connecting at the stem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After tightening every bolt on the stem and adjusting the bars upright, I encountered the same problem after a few more tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking into buying a new stem and wanted to know what the major differences were between a &lt;strong&gt;front-load&lt;/strong&gt; stem and a &lt;strong&gt;top-load&lt;/strong&gt; stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpE0I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of a Front-Load stem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nd4vv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of a Top-Load stem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2483" LastEditorUserId="2483" LastEditDate="2011-09-27T09:26:08.410" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T13:08:42.160" Title="What's the performance difference between a front-load and top-load bike stem?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6277" CreationDate="2011-09-27T11:28:10.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be no difference, other than the quality of the materials and workmanship.  One can clamp just as tightly as the other, and both will be apt to produce the same symptoms if the bar is slightly undersized or too flimsy at the mount point.  In both cases, if you do have a slightly-undersized bar you want to keep you can grind down the faces of the clamp a hair (though it would tend to deface the upper unit more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the main difference between the above units is weight and &quot;sex appeal&quot; -- the upper unit appears likely to be a few grams lighter, and it's that cool black color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T11:28:10.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2011-09-27T16:36:26.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is using a &quot;wax&quot; chain lubricant.  If you do some reading, you'll see that people have &lt;em&gt;strong&lt;/em&gt; opinions about chain lubrication (do a search here for &quot;wax&quot;).  I can see the reasoning behind most of the opinions, but I've personally had good luck with straight paraffin wax.  Other alternatives include wax suspended in solution (e.g. White Lightening, Finish Line), or wax mixed with additives.  The bottom line is that these wax-based lubricants are meant to harden and flake off with time, so they don't leave a chainring stain on your pants or leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously, I used straight paraffin wax (similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecovelo.info/2010/05/30/chain-maintenance-for-clean-freaks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this technique&lt;/a&gt;, but with no beeswax), but I've just started using a chain lubrication method involving &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.bicycling.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/671104717/m/1941016826?r=1051020536#1051020536&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;graphite and wax&lt;/a&gt;.  This approach seems quite good so far (only a few hundred miles).&#xA;If you do go with a chain wax, you'll definitely want to step up the frequency of reapplying in wet weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2304" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T16:36:26.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6224" CreationDate="2011-09-27T18:11:54.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are a 'large' person you may notice significant differences between wheels. My weight has been all over the place, but at my current 190 pounds (and especially at over 200 pounds) I notice significant flex in &quot;standard&quot; light-weight road wheels. The flex is especially apparent in the front wheel when cornering downhill at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bought my first road bike I was at 210 pounds and when test-riding it on steep curves I could feel (and see) the bottom of the Velomax Aero wheel flex to the inside of the turn by an inch or more. After swapping for a similar Velomax wheel with a few more spokes I didn't have any noticeable flex when cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, when climbing out of the saddle on less-stiff wheels I will often hear a 'pinging' noise that I think comes from the spokes re-seating themselves as the wheel flexes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When testing wheel sets, just make sure that you take some hard corners and steep climbs. If you don't find the amount of flex to be a problem for you and your weight then they are likely stiff enough. If they feel like wet noodles under you or 'ping' when climbing, try something stiffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T18:11:54.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-27T20:35:36.790" Score="15" ViewCount="892" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frustrated cyclist &quot;jegrgic&quot; poses this question at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://nycc.org/message-board/how-handle-delivery-cyclist/53724&quot;&gt;New York Cycling Club (NYCC) website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I see this, I want to just go over to the person and try to give them some common sense. But typically, I just do my best to avoid them (usually by going into traffic) and swear under my breath while shaking my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it productive to be confrontational in this situation? Has anybody been able to educate them? Should we let the salmon swim upstream unimpeded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1835" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-09-27T20:40:10.493" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T16:37:19.223" Title="How should I deal with bike messengers + others (salmon) riding the wrong way in a bike lane?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;advocacy&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6282" CreationDate="2011-09-27T21:07:57.140" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are cultural differences between NYC and where I live, but I've found that any attempts at yelling &quot;&lt;code&gt;Don't go the wrong way!&lt;/code&gt;&quot;, &quot;&lt;code&gt;You're gonna kill yourself! Ride with traffic!&lt;/code&gt;&quot; or something like that at a passing cyclist get no acknowledgment, get dismissed (&quot;yeah, yeah, whatever&quot;), or hostility. There's very few wrong-way cyclists that seem open to being educated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really hoping somebody can share some techniques that have seemed to reach the salmon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the one thing I know of working is police ticketing them, especially since here one of their options for dealing with the ticket is taking a bicycle safety class from a LAB certified instructor via the local cycling advocacy group. In the US there's been federal grant money for &quot;bicycle safety&quot; that police departments can apply for to pay for overtime for police officers to concentrate on ticketing cyclists for dangerous illegal behaviors. It might be possible to convince your local police department to apply for some of that funding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as how to keep yourself safe, hugging the curb and slowing down works great.  Since they can see the oncoming traffic they're better situated for a dodge out of the bike lane. Slowing down so that you can stop quickly is helpful, too. If there's cars next to you, this doesn't work as well, since wrong-way cyclists are generally willing to ride in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1602#1602&quot;&gt;door zone&lt;/a&gt; without thinking twice about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T21:07:57.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-27T23:02:58.523" Score="1" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any compatible trailers or such for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strida.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strida&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2489" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-10-01T14:36:07.793" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T14:36:07.793" Title="Anyone found a good way to transport kids with a Strida?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;children&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6284" CreationDate="2011-09-27T23:18:37.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that one might possibly attach a lightweight trailer to that rack sort of deal on the back, or possibly to the seat stay.  Since the thing has such a short wheelbase with the rider's weight so far backwards, there would be a bit of a problem with the bike doing a wheelie, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T23:18:37.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6310" CreationDate="2011-09-27T23:30:19.760" Score="11" ViewCount="25045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bullhorn bars, with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=58&amp;amp;sortname=Lever&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tektro cyclocross lever&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=73&amp;amp;sortname=Lever&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;TT style bar end lever&lt;/a&gt; as well, operating rim brakes. The calipers are Tektro dual pivot. The pads are cartridge style pads (I don't have the exact make and model with me right now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the closest photo to my setup I could find. I have bullhorn bars rather than drop bars, but it shows the way the cyclo levers interact with the bar end levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKij8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;inline brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been having trouble with braking performance, particularly in the wet. The levers don't bottom out (as I'm careful to keep them adjusted), but even squeezing very hard the bike doesn't pull up very quickly. I should also mention that I've tried removing each lever and haven't noticed any difference (although it can be hard to compare different days and different conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had 3 different bike shops tell me that the problem is having both brake levers. They claim that it introduces too much flex into the system and braking power is reduced. I was very skeptical until all 3 people told me the same story independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't make sense to me. The cable is not interrupted and using either lever doesn't seem to compromise the brake line in any way. When you use the bar end lever, the interrupter is closed and I can't see any flex in the lever. When using the interrupter lever I don't see how the bar end lever can be causing any flex either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain how having both levers would compromise performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T23:34:58.800" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T16:51:00.130" Title="Do cyclocross/interrupter/touring brake levers reduce brake performance?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6290" CreationDate="2011-09-28T01:14:07.317" Score="11" ViewCount="18210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike with drop bars, and the left brake lever is slightly loose - it can rotate a few degrees around the handle bar from side to side. How can I tighten it? Is it possible to do so without unwrapping the handle bars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k5Xue.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pw2vd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JF5Jo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T03:57:01.980" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T14:59:28.730" Title="My brake lever is coming loose from my handle bars; how can I tighten it?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6298" CreationDate="2011-09-28T01:17:18.703" Score="14" ViewCount="49584" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I apply the front brake I can feel a &quot;shudder&quot; or &quot;pulse&quot; through the front wheel, fork and handlebars. It's faster when I'm travelling faster and slower when I'm moving slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume there's something wrong with the rim, causing the brake pads to catch (rim braking, not discs). But I've checked the rim carefully and can't see anything. There isn't any ledges and I can't see that parts of the rim are wider than other parts (although I haven't checked with calipers or anything since I don't have any). It's happened since the wheels were new. They're &lt;a href=&quot;http://chargebikes.com/parts/dish/&quot;&gt;Charge Dish&lt;/a&gt; wheels. I've used multiple different brake pads and they have all had this problem (to varying degrees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I diagnose and fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Updates based on comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bike is an SE Lager, about 18 months old. I'm running Conti GP4000S 23mm tyres.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've spun the wheel and eyeballed the rim/pad clearance. I can't see any noticeable bulge, but I'm assuming that's what's causing the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a large frame (I'm 6'3&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the suggestions. If there is a bulge in the rim can I fix it, or do I need to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T00:54:57.957" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T11:43:51.320" Title="Front wheel &quot;shudder&quot; or &quot;pulse&quot; when braking" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6282" CreationDate="2011-09-28T02:48:48.507" Score="12" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to just go over to the person and try to give them some common sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I felt like that, I'd have to tell every second cyclist I see at night that they ought to have lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it productive to be confrontational in this situation? Has anybody been able to educate them? Should we let the salmon swim upstream unimpeded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ring your bell. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T02:48:48.507" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6287" CreationDate="2011-09-28T03:58:09.153" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be removing the cap from the front of the lever, a hex socket is revealed through a small opening, which can be tightened to snug the lever to the handle bar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wXc2S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T03:58:09.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6288" CreationDate="2011-09-28T06:31:31.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that the wheels are true.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Like ChrisW mentioned, angle the pad slightly to make sure the brake pad doesn't touch the wheel all at once to have more leeway in the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2353" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T06:31:31.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6282" CreationDate="2011-09-28T08:16:59.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not your problem. Leave them be. Do your own thing, swim your own path. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to say that but life's too short. If they're not going to listen to what you say and it would just annoy you even more than it apparently already does, then just leave them to it and go on about your day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless someone has actively endangered me with their stupidity, then I'm inclined to just ignore it. I'm not a cop, they'd not pay me any attention anyway. If I'm feeling particularly belligerent then I might deliberately get in their way (I do tend to do this with pavement riders when I'm a pedestrian), but generally that's just risking their anger and they wouldn't learn anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T08:16:59.637" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6288" CreationDate="2011-09-28T09:43:11.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Jason S said it could be your headset.  Engage the front brake while standing by your bike and try to move your bike forwards and backwards.  Do you feel play in the front end then?  If so it's likely to be the headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T09:43:11.700" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1736" CreationDate="2011-09-28T12:18:55.187" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can now participate in updating Google Maps&lt;/strong&gt; to the point of adding streets and updating information, using &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/mapmaker&quot;&gt;Google Map Maker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. While there is community bureaucracy to learn, you can now indeed participate directly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T12:18:55.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6282" CreationDate="2011-09-28T13:08:04.360" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have in the past stopped and held up my hand in a 'stop' gesture and had a short conversation with people riding the wrong way.  If they stop, which they normally do, I typically and quickly try to point out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrong way riding is illegal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's substantially more dangerous.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Our state is a contributory negligence state, so if you are in an accident you will likely collect much less or nothing at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I finish with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe it's none of my business, but everyone is better off when we all follow the expected traffic rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally I get a response that ranges between acceptance and indifference. The anecdotal evidence that it works is that they usually cross the street and on my typical route I seem to see fewer 'salmon'. Truth is, they may be thinking I'm a crackpot and crossing back over as soon as I am out of sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only once has someone yelled or argued with me. That said, I don't stop messengers.  They generally know the rules and are choosing to flaunt them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T13:25:37.897" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T13:25:37.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6288" CreationDate="2011-09-28T14:06:49.507" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;By your description, it totally seems to be some slight irregularity on rim surface, be it a bent spot, some fluctuation around valve-hole or seam, or some slight variation on total width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the exact problem you described three times: after hitting a pothole too hard once, and after my bike fell off a moving car's bike rack thereafter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both times, it was some rim irregularity, and it was on the same rim. First time, I kept riding and the very rim wearing out with braking eventually solved the problem. Second time, I had to put a new rim, because the &quot;pulse&quot; was very intense and dangerous (fork flexing and all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third time I had this problem, I had a defective rim which eventually cracked on the side, and I felt a progressive worsening of this &quot;pulse&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AND HERE GOES THE SOLUTION!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed this irregularity caused an assymmetric MONLIGHT REFLECTION because I was riding at night, leaned the bike to the side, and was marevelled by the beautiful circle of moonlight on the shiny breaking surface of the rim. But there was a bent spot, pretty much invisible to direct observation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I propose you go with your bike close to a shadowed wall on a very sunny day, and use the braking surface of the rim to reflect sunlight on this shadowed wall, optionally letting the wheel turn slowly, and repeating the procedure with the other side of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure, if there is a bent spot, the slightest one, you will see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can increase the distance to the wall to make the effect more obvious, and you should expect some natural assymmetry. The &quot;abnormal&quot; thing to watch would be a very localized spot of aberrant light distrtibution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: suppose you found the micro-bent spot, a good way to wear it away is to put not-so-expensive brake pads, go to your favourite muddy downhill track in a wet day (preferrably one where the weels completely sink in the mud), and use the brakes mercyless. Your rim will begin to shine!! (pun intended ;o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(well, you could always turn the bike upside down, spin the wheel, close your eyes, and literally feel variations on rim surface with your bare fingers. It is not so sensitive as the sunlight method. Do it with caution!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T13:45:38.977" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T13:45:38.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1060" CreationDate="2011-09-28T14:22:43.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.waba.org/blog/2011/09/no-criminal-assault-charges-to-be-brought-against-driver-caught-on-camera-striking-cyclist/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a recent example&lt;/a&gt; of why it may be pointless to go through the trouble of maintaining a camera for video evidence. Perfectly good video and even an independent witness who observed the driver intentionally swipe the cyclist: NO CHARGES FILED.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T14:22:43.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="154" CreationDate="2011-09-28T15:23:33.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Belgium and The Netherlands there exists a &quot;Fietsroutenetwerk&quot; (Bicycle route network). This is great for planning road trips. Short and longer ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alongside save and good cycling roads, there are simple signs with numbers that point to the next node in the network. At nodes, there are signs to connected nodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2cUA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Signs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is, that you plan your own route, but you need to know the numbers of the nodes. There are websites and plans that can help you with your planning (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietsnet.be/routeplanner/default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At home you make a list of node's to follow, like (14 - 15 - 16 - 14), and you can simply follow the signs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nodes are not connected with the shortest route, but with nice and safe bike routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's over 20.000 km documented, and connected routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T15:23:33.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1060" CreationDate="2011-09-28T15:31:23.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps try a ChaseCam?  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chasecam.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chasecam.com/&lt;/a&gt;  Used by a lot of auto racers.  Might work for cycling too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T15:31:23.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1060" CreationDate="2011-09-28T16:00:18.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try below handlebar (possibly attached to the stem) and seatpost just below saddle nut. Stem would allow to turn quickly the handlebars after any non-falling-over evento so as to capture better evidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cushioning the clamp would certainly dicrease mechanical stress and improve sound quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FOOTNOTES:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with some fellows that it might be too much trouble for possibly nothing, not to mention that leaving home with a conflicting mindset might make you nervous and more prone to accidents or discussions than to take proper care on the road ahead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, worrying if the camera is working or not is a time-consuming and distracting activity during the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I totally agree with you that bike unfriendliness can be so extreme as to prompt this kind of attitude. I ride in Porto Alegre, Brazil, and we sometimes are exposed to so much unnecessary risk (neglect from speeding drivers, mostly), you become really frustrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some groups I participate have already made some progress by doing constant and intense pressure over traffic authorities and our city's major. On the long run, this is the only action that really pays itself off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take care, and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T16:00:18.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6288" CreationDate="2011-09-28T16:11:32.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some general things to check for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels are true&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel brake surfaces are clean (I use some automotive brake cleaner on a rag and wipe them down if I accidentally get oil on them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake pads have some pad left (make sure they aren't too worn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake pads are angled slightly as they contact the rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I've also taken a metal file and rake it over the brake pad surface a bit to scuff them up. Not sure if that would help your situation though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T16:11:32.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1060" CreationDate="2011-09-28T16:24:36.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a product designed specifically for this use, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cerevellum.com/#/home&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cerevellum&lt;/a&gt;: a bike computer with a crash recorder, which hooks up to a rear-facing camera. It's not cheap, but it is designed to do exactly what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T16:24:36.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6307" CreationDate="2011-09-28T16:59:06.283" Score="6" ViewCount="19557" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have friction shifters and for some reason the front one gives me a bit of trouble. It tends to return to its most untensioned state. So say I want to shift to a higher gear, it will try to drop me back down to my lower gear. My guess is I might need to lube up the cable and shifter. Any other known solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-10-07T18:04:45.020" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T11:02:27.627" Title="Front Friction Shifter Problem" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6286" CreationDate="2011-09-28T17:08:48.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way that interrupter levers could make much of a difference is if the installation requires extra housing (which would compress under braking, increasing the lever travel for a given braking pressure). If you're not bottoming out the levers, though, that's not the source of your problem (and from the picture I don't see why the interrupters would require additional housing anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think Daniel R Hicks is correct here--your lever/caliper setup likely isn't giving you enough mechanical advantage. You're squeezing the levers as hard as you can, but you're just not getting enough pad/rim force for decent stopping power. You notice this mostly in wet weather because there's less pad/rim friction when they're wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finger positioning on the levers is one thing that can make a difference--keep them as far away from the pivots as you can. On my drop-bar commuter bike, for example, I need to ride in the drops during wet weather because I just don't get enough mechanical advantage with my hands on the hoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also see better braking performance if you switch to softer brake pads, or rain-specific pads like Kool-Stop Salmon or similar, though I've read that the Salmons tend to chew up rims pretty quickly when it's dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T17:08:48.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6305" CreationDate="2011-09-28T17:40:25.280" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;With friction shifters this is usually caused by one of two problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loose Shifter Screw:&lt;/strong&gt; Friction shift levers usually have a wing-nut-screew used to adjust the tension and friction of the lever against the mounting housing.  Tighten this screw, but not too tight or else you can't move the shift lever.  You can also take the shifter apart (noting carefully the order of the parts) and clean everything with degreaser.  DO NOT LUBE - you are trying to regain friction, not remove it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Edit re. ʍǝɥʇɐɯ  - After you adjust everything you may find that the shifter screw continues to come loose almost immediately - in that case you may want to use a little 'adjustable/removable' Loctite on the screw, assemble, and let it sit for a while before using.  That should help hold everything together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cable Friction:&lt;/strong&gt; Often there will be one or more points of friction on the cable route.  This could be in the housing, or in the routing channels under the bottom bracket.  As you apply pressure to the pedals the frame flexes, pulling the cable one way, but then the friction stops it from sliding back.  Check and clean your housings and routing points, especially at the bottom bracket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T14:04:15.177" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T14:04:15.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6277" CreationDate="2011-09-28T19:23:14.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main difference between front-load and top-load stems is the stack height. Top loads will usually have a greater stack height. This would allow you to remove spacers or increase the height of your existing bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T19:23:14.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6305" CreationDate="2011-09-28T22:39:27.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I thought you might want to know the historical background to this particular problem and how to fix it so that it stays fixed...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suntour 'Power Ratchet' friction shifters contain a spring and a ratchet, with the ratchet working one way, the idea being that it should be easy to shift gears with them. On most of their shifters of this era, e.g. the down tube, top-shifter and bar-end variants, there was a ratchet in both levers. However, with the stem-mounted shifters (as commonly found on more affordable bikes) they skimped on the ratchet for the left hand lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a diagram for a down-tube lever, note the two ratchets (10):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6yBF0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now here is what you have, note how parts (10) and (11) only feature on one side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0ZZv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the lever set is 'defective' from the start, no little ratchet like you have on the right lever. The consequence of this is that the lever is always trying to undo the screw. Plus, even if you do not actually use the gear, there is the small matter of road vibration, this too loosens the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remedy this problem you need to increase the friction on the screw (17), not the lever gubbins as a whole. Place a small dollop of Loctite on the screw thread, do up the screw to how it suits you and the job should be a good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T22:39:27.230" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6286" CreationDate="2011-09-28T23:47:42.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is not to do with the interrupter levers (they are probably the least weak part), the problem is systematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano and Campagnolo are known for their bike components, however, they can be seen as companies specializing in cold forged aluminium alloy components and able to churn out the best quality stuff, whether that be fishing reels, wheels for Porsche cars or bike bits. These companies have invested in really big presses for the cold forging process, invested in the finest alloys and invested in the really expensive dies that only make sense to invest in if the sales volume is there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only engineers inside the machine tool/cold-forging business or in the cold-forging business can really illuminate to you the science going on at the high end and what the likes of 'Tektro' miss out on. However, 'Tektro' parts are nearer being 'stamped out of cheese' than cold-forged properly. It is unlikely that their parts get put in the press multiple times, this forging process required to give the 'Shimano grade' finish, aligned aluminium alloy grains and consequent strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Tektro brakes are well known for being 'spongy' and, as of yet, no Tour de France teams upgraded their Campagnolo/SRAM/Shimano brakes to 'Tektro' for that special 'spongy' feel. They are OEM parts without much call for them in the aftermarket. The processes used to make all of their parts are cheaper than those used by Shimano/Campagnolo. Hence the problem is systematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given where you are, consider getting a better front brake, e.g. Shimano 105 (or even Sora). Also consider investing in Shimano cables. The back brake is less crucial as you skid on that anyway, but you might want to be on the lookout for a complete brake setup replacement &lt;em&gt;minus&lt;/em&gt; the interrupter levers - keep them and swap out the rest as time and effort allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T23:47:42.023" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-29T09:19:09.390" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just returned from a great weekend of biking in Berlin.  Riding there was pure pleasure due to the number of bike lanes and easy day routes to interesting sites around the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is not a question with a single correct answer but I would love recommendations on other great biking cities in Europe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2495" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T12:27:56.980" Title="Great biking cities and routes in Europe?" Tags="&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2011-09-29T13:06:56.933" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6311" CreationDate="2011-09-29T11:18:59.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://copenhagenize.eu/index/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Copenhagenize Index&lt;/a&gt; ranks the top 20 cities by bike friendliness in 13 categories. It's a world-wide index, but most of the top 20 are in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The European cities that made the top 20 are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amsterdam (54)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copenhagen (52)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Barcelona (45)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Berlin (41)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Munich (40)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paris (39)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dublin (37)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Budapest (36)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hamburg (36)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stockholm (33)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helsinki (31)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;London (31)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vienna (30)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T11:18:59.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6311" CreationDate="2011-09-29T12:27:56.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 for London. The Thames and the Parks are brilliant places to ride, and for getting across town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have Sustrans routes, sign-posted, looked after and online: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sustrans.org.uk/map?key=London&amp;amp;type=RG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sustrans.org.uk/map?key=London&amp;amp;type=RG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transport for London also have a cycling journey planner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/cycling/11598.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/cycling/11598.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people complain about cycling infrastructure in London, but it all comes down to what you know, and I know there is no need to get across London any other way than by bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T12:27:56.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5312" CreationDate="2011-09-29T13:53:54.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be aware of wearing out one cassette much quicker than the other. If it is the case, the worn chain from the older cassette would increase the wearing of the newer one. This will happen only if you use one of the wheels (say, mountain) more often or on dirtier conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case, each cassette should have its own matching chain, but this would hardly be more pratical than just changing tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, changing tires is my method of choice to &quot;convert&quot; a mountain bike for road use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T13:53:54.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6319" CreationDate="2011-09-29T16:11:11.477" Score="4" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a reference on on-line source of information on what certifications have been awarded to all helmets currently available on the market? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I'm specifically trying to determine what certifications the &lt;em&gt;2011 POC Trabec Race Helmet&lt;/em&gt; has, but can find no sites that list them. (The manufacturer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.pocsports.com/products/certifications.asp?id=10-Bike&amp;amp;category=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;has a list&lt;/a&gt; for it's own products, but does not include this helmet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T15:23:21.827" Title="Is there a resource that lists certifications for all available helmets?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6321" CreationDate="2011-09-29T16:28:13.313" Score="13" ViewCount="5400" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any data or official (e.g. standards-based) information on the effects of wearing a liner, bandana, or other hat under a helmet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/3600/1683&quot;&gt;many riders&lt;/a&gt;, I wear &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.headsweats.com/categories/our-products/cycling-styles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;headsweats&lt;/a&gt;&quot; in the summer for sun protection, and a wool beanie in the winter to keep warm. Both &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; thin enough that they &lt;em&gt;ought&lt;/em&gt; not compromise the performance of the helmet in a crash. But is there any data on this, or any official recommendation on what kinds of liners or hats can safely be worn inside a helmet, or how best to wear them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T01:28:29.163" Title="Do liners or other hats worn inside a helmet compromise safety?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2011-09-29T17:13:05.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thehubway.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cycle hire&lt;/a&gt; (a.k.a. &lt;a href=&quot;http://nycitybikeshare.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bike sharing&lt;/a&gt;) systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/cycling/14808.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VxTf4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cycle hire station, Broadwick St. Soho, London UK&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By democratizing and popularizing riding, and making it a taken-for-granted part of the transport infrastructure. More bikes also mean more bike-awareness, and more widespread participation and interest in biking, which drives support for all other safety improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastEditorUserId="1683" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T17:19:52.723" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T17:19:52.723" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-29T17:13:05.493" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1817" CreationDate="2011-09-29T17:16:24.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/congestioncharging/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Congestion charging&lt;/a&gt;: a very effective way of reducing the number of cars on the road, and increasing the average skill of the drivers that remain (since an increasing proportion of the remaining drivers are professional drivers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastEditorUserId="1683" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T17:29:06.903" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T17:29:06.903" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-29T17:16:24.207" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6315" CreationDate="2011-09-29T18:26:52.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the reality is that the best you can hope for is a per-country, per-tester, per-standard or per-certification list. There are many bicycle helmet safety standards I don't believe there is any single worldwide source of bicycle helmet certification info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're at the store trying the helmet on to see if it fits comfortably, &lt;strong&gt;look inside the helmet for a certification sticker&lt;/strong&gt;.  Mine has a Snell sticker that says &quot;B90A&quot; and I can go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smf.org/cert&quot;&gt;Snell's Helmet Certification List&lt;/a&gt; to search via the testing standard (B90A), make and model to find that they have tested that helmet to that standard.  (and if I want I can also look around for the details of that standard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or perhaps you're not trying the helmet on and are contemplating buying the helmet site unseen? That sounds likes a bad idea to me, I'd want to insist on trying on a helmet before buying to make sure it fits my particular head well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snell essentially has their own higher standards that exceed the standard US standards and has a very nicely searchable online database.  POC does not appear to use Snell because they don't list Snell on the POC for the other helmets and I can't find POC helmets on the Snell site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The POC link you provided has some stuff with a European standard (EN), some with a &quot;CPSC&quot; and some with &quot;ASTM&quot;.  CPSC is the US &quot;Consumer Products Safety Commission&quot; who certifies testing procedures and testing labs and publish recall information, but I don't believe they actually do helmet testing directly. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.astm.org/search/site-search.html?query=helmet&amp;amp;cartname=mystore#31063057&quot;&gt;ASTM&lt;/a&gt; seems to be a worldwide standards organization, who similarly to CPSC certifies testing procedures, not helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's quite likely that POC uses the same outside lab for testing all of their helmets to the standards, so it's worth looking at who certifies to those standards they do list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By searching on ASTM's website for &quot;bicycle helmet&quot; and clicking the &quot;Laboratory&quot; refinement button, and they have a listing for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.astm.org/LABS/filtrexx40.cgi?+-P+ACCTNO+14750+template.frm&quot;&gt;Biokinetics and Associates&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.astm.org/LABS/filtrexx40.cgi?+-P+ACCTNO+135400+template.frm&quot;&gt;ICS Labs&lt;/a&gt;. Otherwise ASTM's site isn't really very useful...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biokinetics has a client listing that includes Bell (one of the bigger helmet manufacturers), but not POC.  No product listing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ICS doesn't appear to list their clients, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icslabs.com/Certified-Products.html&quot;&gt;Certified Products&lt;/a&gt; link is under construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which all leads back to: &lt;strong&gt;look inside the helmet for the certification sticker.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T18:26:52.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-09-29T21:09:06.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Vienna, Austria&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With excellent coverage of the old city center and linkage to an extensive bike trail network (on the sidewalks!), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.citybikewien.at/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this system&lt;/a&gt; is well loved and well used, but it feels a bit worn down (the bikes are in terrible shape) and the system is old and cumbersome (not the excellent system now in use on London and Boston and soon to be deployed in New York). Still, it's an essential part of any visit to the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRmXO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Jumble of bikes near the Technical University&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastEditorUserId="1683" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T21:46:09.370" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T21:46:09.370" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-29T21:09:06.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6316" CreationDate="2011-09-29T21:32:03.900" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; heard of sweatbands, bandana's, or caps being problematic. Curious about what prompts the question? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing remotely similar that I have heard IS a potential issue is plastic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/visors.htm&quot;&gt;sun-visors attached to helmets&lt;/a&gt;. Apparently these things can come loose in a crash and scratch/poke the face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But linings? No way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/stdchart.htm&quot;&gt;Here's a summary&lt;/a&gt; of what is involved in the helmet testing used to certify helmets for CPSC, ANSI or Snell compliance. Any issue related to hair or lining would conceivably be addressed by a &quot;rolloff&quot; test. However, in testing the helmet is merely strapped to a form that represents a head size. The standards have no indication related to what's under the helmet other than the size of the form (to test different size helmets). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/standard.htm&quot;&gt;More complete description of testing here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is any design or safety accommodation for lining under a helmet, it would probably be addressed by the individual manufacturers, but I've never heard such a thing mentioned except that some helmets are better with ponytails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, linings of some form or another have been used widely since helmets have started to be worn. I'd like to know if anybody has heard of any &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; mishap related to linings under helmets. I suspect there is none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;oh... looking further on the bhsi.org, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/hair.htm&quot;&gt;I see there is an article on hair and helmets&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T22:52:32.250" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T22:52:32.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2011-09-30T01:34:14.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides cutting fat and growing your quads, if u wanna keep this frame going I would increase your gearing and then just get strong enough to crank on the higher ratios. But I feel that once you start shooting for speed you need to get a modern bike. Even the crappiest newer group components are worlds apart from the 80's parts. But a combo of good gearing for your fitness level, awesome wheel set(wheels are the most important part!) and focus your training on your pedal stroke technique should help you go faster. Also find a hill and point down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2506" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T01:34:14.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6330" CreationDate="2011-09-30T05:24:54.357" Score="5" ViewCount="15424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently &quot;upgraded&quot; to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=53997&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Romin Comp Gel&lt;/a&gt; saddle from a soft racing saddle because my old one, while extremely comfortable on long road rides, wasn't working for the TT position I'm now practicing for an upcoming Ironman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been professionally fit with the seat, so I think things are lined up well.  I've ridden nearly 200 miles over the last week with it and the problem is: it still freaking hurts.  It's not chafing; it's pressure right in that, uh, under-area that's supposed to sit in the gap of the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I expect it to get awesome any time soon, or should I try another saddle at this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding seat position, I have my current seat &lt;em&gt;all the way forward&lt;/em&gt;, which is where I've been steadily moving it over the last two weeks since my professional fitting.  Moving it forward did help, but now I'm stuck again (and I have one of those bent seatposts that is pointing forward as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1044" LastEditorUserId="1044" LastEditDate="2011-09-30T13:57:38.470" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T03:39:49.077" Title="How long does it take to get used to a hard saddle?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;gel-saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6323" CreationDate="2011-09-30T05:28:21.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5906/adjusting-saddle-angle-on-a-road-bike-drop-bars/5922#5922&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; was answered by a suggestion to slide the saddle forwards on the seat post. You could give that a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt you'll get used to an existing, uncomfortable saddle position. I don't think that part of your anatomy will 'toughen up'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T06:04:51.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2843" CreationDate="2011-09-30T05:40:44.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You were right first time - the labelling on stem is the max torque that the bolts and stem are rated to withstand. Carbon steerer tubes are typically rated significantly less, and easily crack  through crushing by 8Nm. I tighten mine to 4.2Nm, Specialized rates a max 5Nm for their forks. Additionally, the use of a thin layer of carbon grease / carbon friction compound between the stem and the steerer tube can help you ensure that at even low Nm you get a solid grip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon parts, wrenching at home - make sure you know the torque ratings everywhere.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2507" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T05:40:44.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6323" CreationDate="2011-09-30T07:16:24.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont't know that saddle model but, as always, the answer is really subjective. It could also be &lt;em&gt;forever&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to try a saddle before buying and buy always the better shorts you can afford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T07:16:24.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6323" CreationDate="2011-09-30T13:11:23.357" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can take a few weeks to get used to a new saddle, or other components, but if adjusted properly they should be 'uncomfortable', not 'freaking hurts' painful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to saddles, even after a professional fit you may need to make adjustments at home.  Using a grease pencil or other means of marking the position you can start by doing two things likely to help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decrease the nose angle a few degrees. This could be especially helpful since in a time-trial position most riders are inclined closer to horizontal an this can significantly increase the pressure on the perineum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the saddle a few millimeters forward.  This compensates for the tendency to slide slightly forward when in the drops or on your aero-bars, and helps keep the saddle pressure on your sit bones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you may want to use a small plumb bob to make sure that the nose is centered left to right over the top tube.  Again, in a TT position small deviations can make a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T13:11:23.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2011-09-30T17:38:02.183" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only are grease stains often permanent, but getting caught in the chain can lead to an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shorter pants&lt;/strong&gt;. Shorts or knickers will stay out of the way. In the winter, you can wear tights underneath. I love my &lt;strong&gt;wool tights&lt;/strong&gt; so much that I wear them under my jeans during the day and at night as pajamas. They're expensive, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Metal pants clips&lt;/strong&gt;. These are &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000WY70V6&quot;&gt;dirt-cheap&lt;/a&gt;, durable, and they work great. I usually only put one on my right leg, but in the winter it can be nice to have one on the left, so cold air doesn't blow in as much. I store one on my top tube, but if you're concerned about your paint job, you'll need another place. There are even &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001NGD4BM&quot;&gt;some with built-in reflectors&lt;/a&gt; , but I haven't tried them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Velcro straps&lt;/strong&gt;. They seem attractive at first, with bright colors, built-in reflectors, and sometimes even LED lighting. You can even buy bulk velcro at a hardware or crafts store for not much money. However, I find they work loose as my calves flex. Also, the time I tried the LED style, they broke within minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full chain guard&lt;/strong&gt;. This is what I saw in Sweden and The Netherlands, where riders wore business suits and full-length dresses. In the USA, most riders worry about weight too much to consider these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tuck in to socks&lt;/strong&gt;. This only works if your pants &amp;amp; socks are long enough. As you ride it can still work loose. If you're not wearing socks today, obviously this won't work. But it's nice in that it doesn't require any extra equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll up pants&lt;/strong&gt;. Again, nice because it doesn't require special equipment, and even works on no-sock or short-sock days. I find I have to roll my pants up really, really far to keep them out of the chain, and they unroll as I ride. Meanwhile, cold air hits my delicate ankles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T17:38:02.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6323" CreationDate="2011-10-01T07:48:15.873" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take it back and get a different one. A decent bike shop will let you do this. I went through 3 saddles the last time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is that the &quot;saddle fits you&quot;, and not, &quot;you fit the saddle&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It really doesn't take weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to determine whether a saddle is right or not! A long ride will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;An anecdotal note... My current road bike saddle would qualify as a &quot;hard leather saddle&quot;. At the time I bought the bike, I didn't like the original saddle, then tried a Specialized, then a Fizik, and then settled on a Selle Italia. I'm not knocking either Specialized or Fizik or any other brand; it's just that the Selle Italia saddle worked for my anatomy, and I often spend an entire day+ sitting on that saddle. Saddles are like shoes, they have to fit the wearer. A 30 mile ride told me which saddle to get.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-10-04T22:01:04.943" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T22:01:04.943" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2014" CreationDate="2011-10-01T11:52:40.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using Lake's winter biking shoe for many years.  The latest model (MXZ302) is absolutely superb.  They fixed the main problem the shoe had which was the escape of heat through the cleat.  Now with the latest MXZ302, two inner wool sock layers, and an external booty (of any brand) I can ride in temps down to -15 (minus fifteen) celsius (I think that's about 5 degrees farenheit) without frozen toes.  And I have chronic low blood pressure which causes my feet and fingers to go numb easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if I could only fix the frozen finger issue...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2510" LastEditorUserId="2510" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T04:52:42.870" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T04:52:42.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6288" CreationDate="2011-10-01T12:22:04.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My home made trueing stand consists of the bikes frame and nylon wire ties (zip tie). By attaching the wire tie to the fork or the seat stay it can be trimmed so it is about 1/4 inch longer than the gap between the wheel and frame. If you rotate the tie you can get it to just touch the wheel. Rotate the wheel and check the gap or deflection of the wire tie as the wheel rotates,if you set the tie so it is at the edge of the rim you can also check for an out of round condition.Of course trueing the wheel gets more involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2511" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T12:22:04.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6335" CreationDate="2011-10-02T13:16:16.323" Score="3" ViewCount="11070" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the signs that a fork needs an oil change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking this because lately my RS Revelation (1yo) seems stiff. I checked the sag and found I should increase it... so I did, but it's still using almost the same amount of travel (I check the o-ring at the end of a ride). Moreover, on rough terrain (gravel), I feel an incredible amount of vibrations that hurt my fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these the signs? (in other words: will an oil change solve these problems?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastActivityDate="2011-10-02T21:04:07.537" Title="Is there a sign that a fork needs hydraulic/lubricating oil changed?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6333" CreationDate="2011-10-02T15:09:17.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually only replace the oil when the level gets low (which should only happen if a seal is leaking), although I think many manufacturers do recommend changing it periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically the only regular maintenance I do to my forks, other than inspecting the oil level, is to re-grease the stanchions. A lot of forks have a grease port on the outside that you can inject some grease through, or I will drop off the legs and clean and re-grease the stanchions, using some good fork grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look up the service manual for your fork too. It probably makes some suggestions as to what the maintenance schedule should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-10-02T15:09:17.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6333" CreationDate="2011-10-02T17:28:01.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over time forks become less responsive (move slower basically), but as this effect happens over the course of 12-18 months (the usual fork oil and seal lifetime), it's difficult to notice as you just get used to it.  So most fork manufacturers tell you to change it after so many miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This responsiveness loss happens for a couple of reasons on different types of damping systems, on mine (Boxxers) it's because of pollutants in the oil itself - 'dust' from the bushes, dirt, seal flake off, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a rough idea of the state of your fork oil just by looking at it, new stuff is clear tinted yellow.  I've seen fork oil come out looking like mercury from the sheer quantity of bushing dust in it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically you only need to change seals once they start leaking oil, but of course that usually means that they've already failed their job - if you ride a lot in dirty conditions (which you should be!) they want changing every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bushes only need changing once there's excessive play between your stanchions and sliders, this usually takes years but you can test the same way you would for testing a headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastEditorUserId="2358" LastEditDate="2011-10-02T21:04:07.537" LastActivityDate="2011-10-02T21:04:07.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-02T21:00:58.600" Score="2" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got the MTX &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Bags/MTXTrunkBagDXP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DXP&lt;/a&gt; luggage bag from Topeak.&#xA;Their suggested rack is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Racks/MTXDualSideFrame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTX Dual Side Frame&lt;/a&gt;, but I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Racks/ExplorerTubularRack_w_o_spring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Explorer Tubular&lt;/a&gt; rack (image on site is reversed with the spring version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's listed as compatible, I'd expect that it would mount smoothly, until the latch catches, but instead it's really sticking on loading it in, and it near impossible at times to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something anyone else has experienced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For today, I'm going to try applying some lubricant to the track, to see if that helps at all, but it seems like it's a really tight fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2517" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T21:39:00.960" LastActivityDate="2021-01-23T00:15:00.127" Title="Has anyone else experienced the Topeak MTX DXP bag getting stuck in the rack?" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;&lt;topeak&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6336" CreationDate="2011-10-02T22:14:18.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Topeak rack systems all fit pretty well, I have sold a few in my time and not encountered any problems. I don't believe there are any bolts for fitting that could be potentially put in wrong to compromise the rail/fit, but the fit on them has to be snug because you would not want it rattling away. You do have a compatible bag/rack combo b.t.w.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure you will find anyone on here able to confirm the same problems you are having, and these things are subjective anyway - some people just put up with a problem like this. What I suggest is that you try your bag on a different rack. You can go into a bike shop for this or you can scout around the bike racks and see if there is another rack you can borrow. Topeak are usually very good on warranty issues, so if you do find a problem then it will most likely be sorted by them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-10-02T22:14:18.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2771" CreationDate="2011-10-02T22:55:52.430" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nowadays 'baby powder' is made from corn starch rather than talcum powder, due to concerns that talcum powder gives cancer etc.  However, corn starch turns to an adhesive when wet.  Riding through creeks or in the rain could cause the tube to adhere to the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional substance for punctures is 'French Chalk', a.k.a. talcum powder. To quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_chalk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;French chalk has also historically been used in the repair of punctured inner tubes of pneumatic tires, such as are found on bicycles. A block of French chalk is typically included in proprietary puncture repair kits, which may include some means of generating a fine powder from the block, for example a small file or a roughened area on the metal case in which the repair kit may have been supplied. The French chalk prevents the repair from sticking to other parts of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other benefit of using talc (or cornstarch) is that it also helps to install the tire. It's also easier to remove the tube from the tire down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2519" LastEditorUserId="19615" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T18:37:26.340" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T18:37:26.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-03T01:45:18.000" Score="4" ViewCount="2164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a bike. These are the things I'm looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frame that can handle weight and light off-roading (eg, sand, gravel, rocks, roots, but no big drops)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frame can accomodate fatter, treadier tires (for abovementioned off-roading)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;road wheels fit for the weight involved in touring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drop bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bolts for front and rear panniers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;good for daily commuting too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fits a 5'4&quot; (162.5cm) woman&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;around the 1000$ mark (give or take)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of bike would be a good fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2520" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T21:22:22.433" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T18:20:49.147" Title="Bike for a shorter rider to do touring, daily commuting and light off-roading?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2771" CreationDate="2011-10-03T02:33:44.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, talcum powder is what you want -- it has a natural slipperiness like graphite.  Though cornstarch or any other powder would work fairly well.  (Graphite would be OK but it's rather messy.)  It's especially good to use after making a patch, since the patch has a strong tendency to stick to the inside of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You used to be able to buy it packaged specifically for use in bike tires, though I haven't seen it in a bike shop in years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You clean your tires???)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T02:33:44.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-03T04:22:28.243" Score="1" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my daughter a mountain bike (at a garage sale) a Fuji Thrill with Shimano gears.  Anyway we need to replace the right hand shift/brake combo lever(the little spring is shot and won't allow changing of gears).  It is a 3 x 7(with a little window to see the #'s 1-7 with a green indicator).  The guy at the bike store suggested a Shimano EF60 but I need to buy both and change all the wiring. I can do the work but would rather only replace the broken one.  Any ideas on where I can find a part online and what the part # would be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2521" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T00:28:12.417" Title="Fuji Thrill shimano gears" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6341" CreationDate="2011-10-03T05:36:44.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd second freiheit's vote on the Novara Safari, and depending on whether you want to stretch the budget or look into used, maybe a Salsa &lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/bikes/fargo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fargo&lt;/a&gt; (or the 26&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/bikes/vaya/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vaya&lt;/a&gt; if the 700c thing doesn't work out size-wise).  Also worth taking a look at might be the Jamis &lt;a href=&quot;http://jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/road/satellite/12_satellitecompf.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Satellite&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2304" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T05:36:44.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6343" CreationDate="2011-10-03T06:57:55.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK you can buy OEM R/H only:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/ef60-v-brake-8-speed-r-h-shifter-oe--ec028391?utm_source=froogle&amp;amp;utm_medium=froogle&amp;amp;utm_campaign=froogle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/ef60-v-brake-8-speed-r-h-shifter-oe--ec028391?utm_source=froogle&amp;amp;utm_medium=froogle&amp;amp;utm_campaign=froogle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(That is the 8 speed that will work fine on 7).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the tech.doc:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/ST/EV-ST-EF60-2A-2744_v1_m56577569830630796.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/ST/EV-ST-EF60-2A-2744_v1_m56577569830630796.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part number is ST-EF60-7 - ask your LBS to order the part in for you, off the top of his/her head the sales staff may not know this can be ordered, but it almost certainly can, and definitely can in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T06:57:55.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6341" CreationDate="2011-10-03T08:50:07.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?arc=2011&amp;amp;spid=52721&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Tricross&lt;/a&gt; meets all of those requirements, except it's sold as a man's bike so the geometry might be different and the seat definitely is. Note that in the photo there isn't front pannier bolts; the front forks for the 2011 bike were recalled and replaced with forks that did have bolts. There was a problem with how the brakes were attached to the forks for the old bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tyres are 32&quot; and a bit knobbly. I've used it for medium weight camping (I carried tent but no cooking equipment). I bought it for £600 ($938) on an end-of-season sale so you may struggle to keep the price below $1000 as the 2012 bike is now out and full price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only cyclo-cross bike sole for women that my girlfriend (5'2&quot;) could fit on and was happy with was the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/kona/jake-2011-cyclo-cross-bike-ec026521?utm_source=froogle&amp;amp;utm_medium=froogle&amp;amp;utm_campaign=froogle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kona Jake 2011&lt;/a&gt;. In the link, it is £699.99 ($1094.64) but &lt;strong&gt;does not have front fork pannier bolts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've taken them both light off-roading where it may be fairly muddy and bumpy, but I wouldn't take it anywhere that I'd need suspension because it'd be uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T08:50:07.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6051" CreationDate="2011-10-03T13:26:13.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering my own question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have settled with 44 x 16, I can ride very slowly in moderate uphills and reasonably fast downhill. I'll keep using 700x23C tires, so that the bike is relatively light for slow uphill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I would much rather go with a higher gear even having to walk uphill, because it feels dangerous to spin too much going down, and I always will have a front brake and I don't plan to skid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to mention that my other commuting bike is much heavier, so that I feel fine going slowly uphill with a high gear, because it is still easier than muscle my heavy bike up, even in proper gears: I end up arriving less tired with the fixie, because of its lightweight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to everybody who answered!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T13:48:54.273" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T13:48:54.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6341" CreationDate="2011-10-03T16:26:57.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest looking at the Salsa Fargo.  It is a drop-bar mountain bike, but you can always put skinner tires for light touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you forgo the rocks and roots, then any cyclo-cross bike should fit your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1648" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T16:26:57.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6349" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-10-03T16:28:36.953" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T16:28:36.953" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T16:28:36.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6350" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-10-03T16:28:36.953" Score="0" Body="The saddle part of a bike is designed to support most but not all of the rider's weight. The saddle's nose also assists in balancing and steering. " OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-10-04T13:32:05.977" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T13:32:05.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6341" CreationDate="2011-10-03T18:15:10.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are three options to look at that meet all your requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;touring bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;Cyclocross bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build what you want starting with an old steel frame. (70s or 80s road, or hard-tailed mountain bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note when shopping that a good rack is going to run you $50-$200 (and you want a front and back, so a total of two racks) and good panniers seem to run $100-$200 for a pair (and you may want two pairs). If a bike comes with good racks and costs more it may actually work out cheaper for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you may want to look for bikes that have 26&quot; wheels instead of 700c wheels. Since you're 5'4&quot;, fitting the larger wheels on a bike involves some frame geometry compromises. Also, if you're planning to do touring in other countries, apparently the 26&quot; wheel size is easier to find in Asia and south america.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider having the shop replace the stem and handlebars to get the fit right for you. You may find that the bikes come stock with handlebars that are a little too wide for you and a little too far forward to reach comfortably.  (however, fit is tricky since there's a lot of details and height isn't enough)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Touring bike&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of sub-variants in the general touring bike category, so not all meet these descriptions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touring bikes are specifically made for carrying heavy loads using a front and back rack. Holes to bolt the racks, heavy duty frame, heavy duty wheels, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touring bikes are generally heavy-duty enough to handle a bit of off-road paths and many people include fire roads and other dirt or gravel roads in their touring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touring bikes usually are designed to handle fairly fat tires (for comfort over long distances and rough roads) and could have knobby tires mounted easily enough. Or fenders, though fenders limit how fat you can go on the tires a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop handlebars are common on touring bikes, though many people opt for various other bar styles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touring bikes work great as a daily commuter (I use one that way)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finding a touring bike for somebody who is 5'4&quot; could be a little tricky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many touring bikes are above your price-point by a few hundred US dollars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as specific models, a few people have mentioned Novara bikes, which are sold at REI. I ride a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Long Haul Trucker&lt;/a&gt; which I believe does have a frame size option that might fit you and I think still retails for about $1100 (and since it's distributed by QBP, most bike shops can order it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cyclocross bike&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross is a sport that involves a mix of off-road and on-road. Usually reasonably smooth dirt and/or mud. No jumps. The most expensive cyclocross bikes are optimized entirely for racing and have no rack bolt-holes, but the lower-end cyclocross bikes often have bolt-holes for fenders and/or racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclocross bikes are designed for light off-road. Because of that, they're likely to be tough enough for what you want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclocross bikes usually come with tires that are slightly knobby, and often have clearance for slightly larger tires than that (so that muddy tires can still roll)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop bars are the standard on cyclocross bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you've added a rack (or two, or basket, or rack and basket) and fenders, these make great commuter bikes. I've definitely seen people using them that way. For commuting or touring I would replace the stock knobby tires with a smooth puncture-resistant tire with reflective sidewalls (Schwalbe Marathon something, Specialized Armadillo, etc). For more dedicated off-road usage you might want to replace the tires with something more knobby than the stock tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific models: The &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Cross-Check&lt;/a&gt; should work, it's very similar to the Surly Long Haul Trucker I mentioned above. I've seen Specialized Tri-Cross bikes for under $1000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now is the very beginning of Cyclocross race season in much of the US, so if you're in the US it's likely stores will have some on the floor to check out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T20:01:47.683" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T20:01:47.683" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6316" CreationDate="2011-10-03T20:30:02.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should not. Having extra hair on your head vs a wearing an extra thin layer of clothing should not impact the safety any differently. Wearing a cap (like baseball cap) &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; impact safety. It could potentially prevent the helmet from taking on a natural position and be tilted backwards slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, you should ensure that you are wearing a helmet of the correct size, the correct way and it's not already damaged from a previous crash. Helmets need to be replaced after any serious crash in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2191" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T20:30:02.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="852" CreationDate="2011-10-03T22:54:45.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two categories of sports drinks as far as endurance folks are concerned: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;During-the-ride hydration&lt;/strong&gt; for replacing water and electrolytes, and providing some supplemental carbs and sugar to help keep the fat-burn primed and avoid bonking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Post-ride&lt;/strong&gt; drinks for recovery. These typically include some protein in the form of dairy products. I suppose that is why &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.regen2recover.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;regen&lt;/a&gt; is popular. It is (or tastes identical to) chocolate milk-- of course folks are going to like it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most practical solution I've found is to buy sports drinks in powdered form and mix them before the ride. This makes it easy to consistently dial-in the right amount of dilution (can't stand the stuff &quot;straight&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Powdered gatorade has worked fine for me. YMMV. I think that creating a sports drink from scratch would be too much of a &quot;science project&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T22:54:45.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6343" CreationDate="2011-10-04T00:28:12.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to order it through your LBS (local bike shop), eBay and Google shopping are often reasonably good places to start looking for parts.  The number your LBS gave you (EF60) is sufficient to find the right part in this case (you just want the right shifter, but they are sold in pairs, so look for something like &quot;right EF60&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not directly related to the question you asked, but now might also be a good time to replace the shift cable as well (since you will need to remove at least the rear one anyway--that might be why the guy at the LBS suggested it).  Shift cables are fairly inexpensive--my LBS sells them to me for about $1 each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since the pair only costs about $20, I'm not sure you really come out ahead by buying just the right one.  First, buying just one of a bike part sold in pairs often costs much more than half the price of the pair.  Second, shipping just one will probably cost about 75% of shipping both (since this is a fairly small and light item).  If you ever need to replace the left shifter, you will be much better off if you had just bought the pair in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you aren't already familiar with the procedure for installing a adjusting indexed shifters, pick up a copy of Zinn's book.  (Zinn and the Art of...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T00:28:12.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6359" CreationDate="2011-10-04T09:56:55.760" Score="4" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a town in &lt;strong&gt;Bavaria, Germany&lt;/strong&gt; and the local custom with the more dangerous corners is to honk a horn or ring a bell. Will this actually make me safer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I am cycling in a half-urban environment. Having moved recently, I find the new city's biking infrastructure to be fairly dangerous, with many intersections designed to be dangerous (&quot;traffic slowdown&quot;) and with new, not-yet-well-known yielding rules where most people still speed through without slowing down to look first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing that the safest conduct would be very slow cycling (but impractical given the density of dangerous places), I've taken to auditory messaging, i.e. ringing my bell before dangerous places and corners, and I know quite some people who have upgraded their bell to a horn to gain some safety. On the other hand, I've spoken with a number of residents who find this excessive bell-ringing and horn-honking disturbing, especially the people living at these dangerous corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does an auditory signal appreciably improve my safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2353" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T22:04:13.593" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T15:30:34.760" Title="Should I ring my bell before going around corners?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;signals&gt;&lt;germany&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6358" CreationDate="2011-10-04T10:22:01.490" Score="11" ViewCount="14035" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a simple way to stop the mudguards on my bike rattling? They're securely connected, but when I go over bumps in the road they tend to wobble about and rattle against my front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2526" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-10-04T16:36:58.543" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T22:57:42.257" Title="How can I stop my mudguards from rattling?" Tags="&lt;noise&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6355" CreationDate="2011-10-04T11:24:55.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that there are some places in Europe where everyone driving a car honks their horn at every corner.  That's probably excessive (and relatively useless).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For the US-ians among us:)  Unlike the US, in parts of Europe (such as Norway, where I've visited several times) and other parts of the world there is no established &quot;pecking order&quot; for one street having right-of-way over another, other than &quot;the car on the right has the right-of-way&quot;.  Even cars in driveways have right-of-way when pulling out.  This works pretty well where streets are wide (and the drivers are well-adapted to the concept), but breaks down in many narrow urban streets (though the US concept of through roads would be equally problematical there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the main problem is that auditory warnings (especially bells) are relatively ineffective.  All the cars have their windows up, running AC, and with the radio on.  Pedestrians have iPods in their ears.  And those that don't are apparently deaf already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T11:46:08.207" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T11:46:08.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2011-10-04T11:30:42.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's a problem that must be solved on a one-off basis, since there so many different fender/bike combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First make sure the connections are really tight.  Often they work loose over time.  Then try to observe what's rattling.  Some heavy tape applied to points that tend to knock against the bike frame may help.  Different fenders that are stiffer and have more stays is another possibility.  In some cases you may simply want to cut off, eg, part of the front fender extending forward from the fork, as that area tends to be less well secured and vibrates quite a bit.  (Mine cracked at the fork and the front part fell off some years back, and I haven't missed it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T11:30:42.087" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6355" CreationDate="2011-10-04T12:13:47.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, a car's use of the horn is meant to be limited: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highwaycode/DG_070289&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Highway Code rule 112&lt;/a&gt; (n.b. capitalised phrases are generally indicative of the legal position):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use only while your vehicle is moving and you need to warn other road users of your presence. Never sound your horn aggressively. You MUST NOT use your horn : &#xA;   *  while stationary on the road&#xA;   *  when driving in a built-up area between the hours of 11.30 pm and 7.00 am except when another road user poses a danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is generally good advice and there are plenty of examples (some encoded in signage) where a quick toot on the car's horn (e.g. before a narrow bridge) is positively encouraged - this would go for bikes too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But is it excessive? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it's a case by case basis, but if you think that someone is coming around the blind bend and would react to your bell-ringing, then yes. If your bell-ringing is combined with your slowing down and taking an appropriately defensive position as well, then yes. If the bell-ringing is just an abnegation of your responsibility and a cover for your being able to just barrel around the corner without paying due care and attention, then almost certainly not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T11:56:05.627" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T11:56:05.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5380" CreationDate="2011-10-04T13:57:25.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The belt drive on my Srida gathers lots of wet snow, making it completely useless throughout the entire winter. In addition, if the temperature is around 0 degrees, the bicycle parts are prone to icing, which is the major problem for the belt drive too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecovelo.info/2011/04/18/gallery-dougs-custom-belt-drive-surly-cross-check/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;another customer review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2527" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T13:57:25.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2011-10-04T14:21:06.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use rubber patches from used tubes. It not always look nice, but besides dampening the rattling itself, they also dampen the sound propagation along the fender (depending of course on the amount of rubber). EVA could also be a good alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other think I sometimes have to make is to preload the metal plates which run from side to side along the fixtures (I have SKS chromoplastic fenders). If you bend them against the surface they rattle, than the &quot;spring action&quot; will keep the surfaces pressing against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a matter of fact, my front wheel is very silent EXCEPT when I take one hand off the handlebar (for example, to use the cycling computer or take the water bottle). Riding one-hand is even noisier than riding no-hands, because the front wheel oscilates laterally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that's it, hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T14:21:06.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2011-10-04T14:59:27.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another source of rattling can be the positioning of the fixings.  If it's a road type then the stays can sometimes be moved along the mudguard to make the contact points wider and reduce rattling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T14:59:27.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6371" CreationDate="2011-10-04T16:25:45.460" Score="19" ViewCount="25545" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several general questions have been asked regarding how long a bike or bike frame will &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/5409/1683&quot;&gt;last&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, and the gist of answers seems to be that a bike can last quite a while if the replaceable components are replaced and the bike is reasonably well maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what about the inherent structural integrity of the frame itself? Is there such a thing as a risk of sudden frame failure or disintegration after some level of use? Do bikes ever fall apart, or develop a risk of breaking or fracturing along weak points? One of my bikes has more miles on it than the car I'm turning in — and I wonder about the integrity of the &lt;em&gt;car&lt;/em&gt;! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastEditorUserId="1683" LastEditDate="2019-12-24T03:22:54.927" LastActivityDate="2019-12-24T14:55:11.750" Title="Is there such a thing as frame failure?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5380" CreationDate="2011-10-04T17:25:38.323" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;It depends&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belt drives require some mechanism to prevent the belt slipping off of the sprockets sideways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Early generation belt drives have &lt;strong&gt;guides on both sides of the sprocket&lt;/strong&gt; to keep the belt from sliding off. This can definitely lead to snow, mud or other debris getting trapped in the sprockets, getting packed in tighter with every revolution, and eventually rendering it inoperable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Later designs started compensating by adding &lt;strong&gt;mud ports&lt;/strong&gt;, a guide on only one side of the sprocket (with other guide on the other side) and other mechanisms to allow snow or mud to be squeezed out of the system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The most recent design has a &lt;strong&gt;guide that runs down the center&lt;/strong&gt; of the belt instead of on either side (so the teeth on the belt have a gap in the middle), which should squeeze snow or mud out the sides of the sprocket and belt. From what I've heard, this is supposed to be the most difficult to clog design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(doing a little research, number 3 is the &quot;Gates Center Track&quot; that just came out at Interbike 2011 and the bike I saw with it was probably one of the first production bikes of that model off the assembly line)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T17:25:38.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1875" CreationDate="2011-10-04T17:26:16.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take your bike on your side, lift the rear wheel and let it fall from a short height, many times, while trying to find the noise;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the bike along an irregular surface (rocky) and try to figure out the source of noise;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab the bike by the handlebars, brake rear wheel and lift front wheel until the bike stands. Then, make the bike jump like a pogo stick (specially good for noises in the front).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any of these, if you have a friend to help you shaking the bike and/or listening, the more ears the better!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T17:26:16.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2011-10-04T17:41:58.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - frames are subject to wear, tear, aging and fatigue.  The primary area of concern or failure on most frames is at the bottom bracket.  On both metal and carbon frames this is a point of high stress and flex. But any weld or joint is subject to stress and may fail over time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should periodically inspect the whole frame, paying particular attention to and weld-points or joints.  Look closely for signs of paint or weld cracking as well as any rust on steel frames.  The best way to do this is to hand wash the frame and inspect it as you go. If you want it to last even longer apply a layer of bike or car wax your frame every six months or so. Wax makes it harder for dirt and mud to stick to your frame, and will make the next clean easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you make it a habit to clean and inspect your frame, are an 'average' rider (not excessively heavy or riding aggressively off jumps and drops), store the bike properly and care for it well it could conceivable outlive you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T17:41:58.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2011-10-04T17:42:13.760" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are referring to is sometimes known as &lt;strong&gt;catastrophic failure&lt;/strong&gt;, when a frame fails under load. While this does happen from time to time, it's relatively rare. There are tales of defective carbon frames failing spontaneously while riding, but these seem to always be friend-of-a-friend stories. Most frames that do &quot;fail&quot; do so because of traffic accidents or other damage. And, as Gary &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6363/is-there-such-a-thing-as-frame-failure/6366#6366&quot;&gt;points out&lt;/a&gt;, the bottom bracket (and mounting eyelets) are likely areas to wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame material also plays a part in this. Conventional wisdom in cycling circles is that steel is the most durable - it can be bent back into shape and even re-welded. Aluminum frames can't. And carbon fiber frames have a reputation for being delicate; if one of those breaks, you throw it out and get a new one, since any fixes will be unreliable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there is some truth to this, steel &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be damaged to the point where it would be unsafe to fix and re-use. And carbon fiber is more durable than folks assume. But evaluating a damaged frame is often more trouble than simply replacing it. There are pro wrenchers who can do this kind of evaluation based on experience, but without putting the frame through an x-ray machine can you really, definitively say that a frame is safe to put your weight on after it's been bent and re-welded? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, yes, the frame is the most durable part of the bike. But it, too can be damaged beyond repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T17:42:13.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6288" CreationDate="2011-10-04T18:02:11.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another potential explanation is the oscillating change in brake cable tension during braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is more common on big frames. I'm 6'4&quot; and I've experienced this on several bikes. Cantilever brakes can exaggerate this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you brake your fork is bending backwards in response to the force being placed on it. This can cause the cable tension to slacken slightly and the brake caliper to open causing a slip. This in turn allows the fork to return to normal and cable tension increases. Then this repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one bike I owned changing from a Avid shorty 6 to a wide Kore brake eliminated this problem. Using a more aggressive toe-in on the pads can help too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your bike has a caliper brake you may want to make sure that your brake housing ferrels are still in good shape. Basically anything that might introduce slack into the braking system or subvert the compression resistance of the housing should be checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T18:02:11.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6341" CreationDate="2011-10-04T18:20:49.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Salsa Fargo and I love it but it is a beast of a bike. Great for touring and off-road riding. It's not my preferred commuter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever bike you choose I would steer you towards 26&quot; wheels. Very often a great bike design gets badly compromised at the smaller sizes unless the size of the front wheel is decreased. For smaller riders this means really bad toe/wheel overlap. This problem will affect you the most during low speed turning like you would do off-road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surly's 26&quot; LHT is tried-and-true if maybe a little overbuilt as a daily rider. I wouldn't hesitate to take one off-road with an appropriately wide tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you ride all of your potential bike several times before deciding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T18:20:49.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2011-10-04T19:02:23.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a few old steel frames that failed.  In one case the down tube cracked in two at the point where the down-tube-mounted shifters were attached.  In another case the crack was at the junction between down tube and bottom bracket.  I've also seen seat stays separated at the seat tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But all of these failures occurred on bikes that had quite obviously been left out in the rain for years (if not decades), and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;all of them were still being ridden, even with the broken frame&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  The traditional steel &quot;diamond&quot; frame is extraordinarily robust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T19:02:23.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2011-10-04T19:38:11.860" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, frames do fail even if they're not crashed or ridden excessively harshly. The only way to mitigate this problem is to inspect the frame regularly during your maintenance and cleaning. Look for cracks. When riding, pay attention to creaks and squeeks and always find the root cause (it could be a crack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A bad weld could hold fine for years before coming apart.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unchecked rust can eat through steel tubes, either from the outside-in or the inside-out. Once it starts, you have to keep on top of it or it will eventually take the frame. Rust also seems to have &quot;good taste&quot; in tubing by preferring the pretty Italian stuff to, say, gas-pipe schwinn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_%28material%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Metal fatigue&lt;/a&gt; can form cracks that grow slowly until the frame suddenly snaps (I've seen this personally where the chainstay meets the dropout, and on crank arms). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum is the worst culprit for fatigue cracks. Aluminum seatposts and steerer tubes also have a tendency to develop aluminum oxide blooms that may permanently jam the seatube/steerer-tube in the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon typically won't survive a bad-enough crash. I've heard of long-term delamination issues, but never saw one personally. AFAIK every carbon frame &quot;dies&quot; in a crash or mishap that damages the frame to the point where the owner no longer trusts it. Anyone have stories about what happens to carbon that is not crashed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a concrete example, below is my own failure from a few years ago. It happened as I was cresting a very steep hill. I heard a loud &quot;pop&quot; and didn't realize what happened until I looked around and saw the chainstay separate from the dropout with each pedal stroke. This is a steel bike and was totally repairable, BTW. I didn't crash as a result (but neither was I going fast). Note the little bit of rust visible at the top of the crack. It indicates that the crack had been there for some time before the total failure.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hegf9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2011-10-04T20:17:52.887" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T20:17:52.887" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2011-10-04T20:26:01.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;They're securely connected, but when I go over bumps in the road they tend to wobble about and rattle against my front wheel.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike developed the same problem after I put fatter tyres on the bike. The back mudguard is not noisy but the front one &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt;. After a certain amount of 'rattling' the mudguard broke off, so let that be a cautionary tale for you! A close-fitting front mudguard can only take so much before it breaks, particularly if SKS chromo-plastic (rather than vintage steel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing up the bolts and dampening them is not going to solve your problem. Only a narrower front tyre or a fatter mudguard will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T20:26:01.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2011-10-04T20:40:33.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to break a steel frame about 2 years after buying it.  That did involve a crash a year after owning it and then riding it to destruction though.  I noticed after the crash (into a ditch) that the geometry felt shorter and tighter.  I just carried on riding it though.  In hind sight that might not have been the most intelligent thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T20:40:33.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2011-10-04T20:42:10.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had success with &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/fenders/fender-hardware/leather-washers-for-mounting-fenders.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;leather washers&lt;/a&gt;. They go between the mudguard and the screw-hole. The idea is to keep the mudguard from being able to pivot (and bang into stuff and make noise). FWIW, I run 35mm honjo fenders on 25mm conti tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T20:42:10.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6392" CreationDate="2011-10-04T23:30:18.727" Score="6" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any research that suggests cyclists are safer drivers than drivers who don't cycle? Is there evidence to suggest the opposite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please remember this is not a discussion. &lt;strong&gt;Please include references to credible research in your answer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T22:41:57.040" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T16:51:24.793" Title="Do cyclists make safer drivers?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6355" CreationDate="2011-10-05T02:33:17.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the bell if I see a pedestrian (or, a cyclist coming up from a cross-road to our intersection) who I think might move into my right-of-way, and who has not (yet) noticeably seen me. I use it a lot, on the order of 20 times an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use it when I don't see anyone, as I enter a blind corner, when I'm prepared to brake if someone is in the wrong place: then my bell might help the other person (if there is one) to prepare to brake too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use it to force my way through a pedestrian crossing when pedestrians have right of way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I beware that a pedestrian may be deaf or inattentive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't expect or hope that a driver will hear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually use it, as I overtake a bicycle, especially in traffic when I want them to not swerve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it as soon as I see an unlit bike on a dark path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it when I cycle through a flock of geese around and on the bike path in daylight: it might ad to their awareness (I haven't tested not ringing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I ring it to warn pedestrians of the cyclists in front of me: part of my commute is a mixed pedestrian/bike path on which the bikes may have right way; once (frantic ringing) it was a pedestrian about to step off the sidewalk into a bike path without looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I scolded a rider for not using his bell. After checking that his bike was equipped with a bell, I said, &quot;You should put that bell where you can reach it&quot; (he had it on the down tube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many bikes have no bell (I rarely hear another rider use their bell; sometimes in reply to mine), although they are legally required in this province.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often use it when I'm riding in the door lane, especially as I pass tall parked vehicles that I can't see past, in case a pedestrian or the vehicle's driver is walking round the vehicle expecting the door lane to be empty of traffic (on that street the alternative to the door lane would be to ride in the centre lane which has inset streetcar tracks and so is dangerous).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T15:15:34.110" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T15:15:34.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-05T05:33:43.970" Score="2" ViewCount="1925" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about ladies bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to buy one recently, like mine but with a smaller frame. It came with 700 wheels. Is that sensible? Shouldn't there be a smaller wheel for a smaller frame? Does North America versus Europe make a difference re. which non-700 wheel size to expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LBS said that frames with/for small wheels were the &quot;mountain bikes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we bought this ladies bike we wanted it like my other bike, which I like, but smaller: so an aluminium frame with no suspension, and disc brakes; and added a rack, and fenders, an optional pannier ... and a heavy (&quot;Kryptonite New York&quot;) D-lock (I use my bike for year-round commuting). I also got Marathon Plus tires, hoping they'd never flat. Though she could lift the bike on the show-room floor (and when we rented it for a week-end test ride) before they installed those accessories, now that it's heavier she's not comfortable lifting it up and down stairs. What solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not for this bike necessarily, but in general: what bike has features and accessories but is proportionally smaller and lighter? Are there specific accessories which may be part of the solution, e.g. by being especially lightweight or removable yet well-made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't for racing. It's for riding to and around the local parks, and residential roads. Along roads to the park. For shopping. Along flat bike trails next to waterways. Possibly through town or city traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some light-weight bikes are racers, aren't they. But racers are not an ideal ladies bike, I expect. What if a lady has limited upper body strength: I expect (I haven't tried them) that racing drop bars aren't ideal, and complicate learning to brake and shift gears (kindly consider a novice lady rider if you answer this question). Also on a racer, the gearing would be wrong for a novice city/recreational rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say &quot;lady&quot; I mean adult (possible senior) female, wearing pants (trousers) or shorts, height around 5'4&quot; (160 cm) or less, paved roads and paths, non-competitive, novice (and consequently not athletic). I'd like her to ride an hour and enjoy it (assuming e.g. she already does 45 minutes on an indoor bike each day, and swims and walks etc.), and carry it up or down a flight of stairs single-handed, or put it into the back of a van, or onto a rack on front of a bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People have said and my experience confirms that an LBS might stock only 700-sized bikes, even with the smaller frames. And that where they have a smaller wheel, it's on a mountain bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding a rack, fenders, and D-lock to an aluminium bike can make it too heavy to lift. Can such accessories be light weight? Apparently a few extra pounds makes a difference, subjectively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eyeing specifically light-weight bikes they tend to be racers. Is there a light weight but not a racer (the answer was &quot;apparently not&quot; in the LBS), and if not can one be put together? For a rider of say 120-140 lb (55-65 kg) at speeds like 15 mph (20 kph).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My wheels are 700x32 with Marathon Plus tires, for commuting. What size wheel and type of tire would be appropriate for a recreational ladies' bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T14:41:52.873" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:32:05.487" Title="Light-weight ladies bike" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6379" CreationDate="2011-10-05T06:35:15.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the models by Electra with a 24&quot; wheel, find a stockist and get your lady friend to try one. Not the lightest but well specified and easy on the novice due to their geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really anything with the 24&quot; wheel makes sense for the 5'4&quot; rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going smaller wheeled with a 20&quot; wheel Dahon folder makes sense too, however, 20&quot; wheel is a bit squirrelly in the park and the stretch to the bars can be borderline for the 5'2&quot; female rider. Try one of those too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T06:35:15.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="51" CreationDate="2011-10-05T13:22:53.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adapted from Brooks catalogue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust your saddle up, but not so much that you have to tilt your hips side to side to fully extend the pedals;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust your saddle forward, but not so much that you feel your body thrown forward while pedalling hard;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the nose of your saddle down, but not so much that you slip forward over your hands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the &quot;numerical bike fitting&quot; methods not to work everytime, and they do not consider rider's preference, comfort and interpersonal variability. Also, on some of my bikes, the best position I end up settling down with is against some widespread fitting rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for me, a good way of measuring saddle fit is to ride no hands: you could be able to do it &quot;almost&quot; comfortably. If it is more comfortable to ride no hands than the normal position, the saddle is too back and/or too nose up. If it is hard to maintain balance, it could be too nose-down and/or too forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, saddle shape and front geometry (handlebar, fork, etc.) have some effect in saddle adjustment, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T13:22:53.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1751" CreationDate="2011-10-05T13:30:36.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Brooks, properly treated with Proofide, and I use full fenders, but major rides while raining make the saddle so soft that it bends all the way down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a problem that can be partially avoided with rain covers, but you cannot forget yours never!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the saddle keeps wet when you arrive, you can pull it to original shape and wait for it to dry again. It becomes even more comfortable after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is the case where you need to keep riding (for example, on a holiday tour) and the saddle is STILL wet from yesterday. I don't know what to do then...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazingly, though, even all the way down it is still comfortable and pretty rideable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once, a dutch guy was crossing my town on a long tour, with his brooks fully stretched down, and he only complained from sore hands, not from sore bum. It was incredible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would say: &quot;Yes, go for it, but you have been warned!&quot; ;o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T13:30:36.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3897" CreationDate="2011-10-05T13:32:28.967" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use Proofide!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride in light rain! (the saddles molds to you much better when lightly wet - but not soaked)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use padded bike lycras (so you can have less pain in the beginning)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these methods worked for me very fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even so, it took me about four months to really get it on its final shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T13:32:28.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6379" CreationDate="2011-10-05T13:47:00.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trek has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/fitness/fx/models?filter1=collections_womens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wide range of women's bikes&lt;/a&gt; that seem to fit what you're looking for. I think the one thing you are going to have trouble with is finding a bike that a woman can lift up and down the stairs. If you want to add rack and fenders, then most &amp;quot;racing&amp;quot; bikes that are really light will not accommodate racks.  Also, racks and fenders add quite a bit of weight to the bike. In order to bring the weight down, you should look for something that is aluminium, possibly with a carbon fork if you can afford it. There are bikes with 650c wheels, make for smaller women usually, but they are pretty rare.  @ʍǝɥʇɐɯ mentioned folding bikes, but I don't think there's much of an option for racks on those bikes. Plus I don't think I've seen a folding bike that is significantly lighter than a standard bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For examples of bikes with 650c wheels, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.khsbicycles.com/05_flite_650_07.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bike&lt;/a&gt;. After extensive Googling, most of the 650c bikes I found were road/race bikes. This seems to be the only market where such a specialized piece of equipment is really something that people are willing to pay for. Most bikes are fine until you start talking about lifting them up and down stairs.  In most cases you might be better off looking for a different way around, take the wheelchair route.  Sure it may not be the answer you're looking for, but I don't think such a machine exists that you can have fenders, rack, pannier, and an upright posture, and expect somebody with limited upper body weight to be able to schlep it up the stairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:32:05.487" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3897" CreationDate="2011-10-05T16:08:14.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may take some mileage to truly &quot;break-in&quot; a Brooks saddle, at which point it will be &quot;perfect&quot; for many folks. However, when it is new it should not be horrifically uncomfortable or even significantly more uncomfortable than a decent quality saddle from other vendors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know when the Brooks is broken-in when you can see the indentations of your sit bones on the saddle. It took my Brooks Pro about 200 miles to get the indentations and has been a perfect fit ever since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The B17 is a fairly wide saddle that is best for upright bikes. IMHO, if you're in the drops or even somewhat aero, a more narrow saddle like the Brooks Pro is much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, it could be that the saddle just isn't a match for your butt. Brooks makes great stuff, but they're not for everybody-- no saddle is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T16:08:14.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3897" CreationDate="2011-10-05T16:41:35.347" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brookssaddles.com/catalogue-and-shop/spareparts/maintenance+products/Proofide+40g+Tin/&quot;&gt;Brooks Proofride&lt;/a&gt; and apparently, you can use it on the underside of the saddle to help break it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that mine was really comfortable after about 7 months of daily use. That or my bum got broken in!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2167" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T16:41:35.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6238" CreationDate="2011-10-06T00:31:14.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that Ned Overend successfully campaigned a full-suspension bike in some of his off-road &quot;ironman&quot; triathlons, and that at least one pro MTB racing team fielded a full-suspension model with good results some years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in both these cases, we're talking sponsored riders with extensive budgets and factory support; and likely a factory mechanic to go along...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most riders, a hardtail will be more than adequate.  Riding technique becomes involved; your legs are after all suspension of sorts but that does require a lot of effort over really rough terrain.&#xA;Remember, a good rear shock absorber can cost as much as many entry-level bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T00:31:14.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6379" CreationDate="2011-10-06T01:35:37.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course, a smaller bike, with 24&quot; wheels, say, or even 26&quot; would be proportionally lighter, and a little less awkward to handle on stairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are other ways to make some headway in terms of weight and awkwardness on the stairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eg: full-sized fenders are more awkward than shorties, and front fenders tend to be especially awkward, so you may want to look at options there.  You could, for instance, rotate the entire fender forward (rotating the stays up) enough to get the &quot;tail&quot; just above the toe clearance area (added benefit), then trim off the front just maybe 3 inches beyond the fork.  You'd cut a little bit of weight and have much less fender in the way when handling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small bungee cord can be wrapped between the front wheel and the down tube, to keep the front wheel straight while handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heavy lock can be left locked in place at the other end of the ride, or can be locked in a convenient place near the bottom of the stairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The style of rack can make a difference in weight and awkwardness.  A rack need not be large and heavy to handle a substantial load.  Pick a rack that is fairly compact, and make sure it's so solidly mounted that one can confidently lift the bike via the rack, rather than having to work around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to get a shoulder pad, or just a piece of foam pipe insulation slipped over the top bar, to let her carry the bike on her shoulder.  (This may or may not be easier for her handling the bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T19:27:51.230" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T19:27:51.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6375" CreationDate="2011-10-06T10:11:52.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a report from the Institute of Advanced Motoring on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iam.org.uk/images/stories/downloads/Cycling/IAMcyclingreportWEB.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cycling Motorists&lt;/a&gt;. The vast majority of motorists believe that cyclists do make safer drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even those motorists who don't cycle believe that cyclists are safer drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1hWxr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T16:51:24.793" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T16:51:24.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1579" CreationDate="2011-10-06T15:53:19.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are not walking, you are riding a bicycle, which is considered a vehicle. Act accordingly unless its early Sunday or no one is on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2519" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-26T23:03:41.543" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T23:03:41.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2011-10-06T16:57:32.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tire levers you use might influence a lot. Not long ago, I had to give up with some old Trek levers, but got it with Schwalbe levers (blue ones, best in the world). These blue levers are very very thin but strong, so I could introduce them between tire and rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T16:57:32.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2011-10-06T18:31:04.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sympathize with the problem. There are just some tire/rim combinations that are extremely difficult. You might have one of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ideas...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pump a very &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; bit of air in the inner tube just before pushing the final segment of bead. This might help it stay off the rim as you're pushing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've had success rubbing bar soap on the last segment of rim to reduce the friction of the bead on the outside of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After you get the tire mounted pump the tire to a very low pressure (2-3 pumps). Then, pinch the tire so that you can see the inside of the rim. Do this for the entire circumference so that you can be sure that the bead is properly seated and also check that the inner tube is not pinched under the bead. This will help avoid blowouts while pumping to pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, foldable tires are ALWAYS easier to mount. It is worth it to consider one to avoid the hassle especially if you have to do this on the side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T18:31:04.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6405" CreationDate="2011-10-06T21:03:30.080" Score="3" ViewCount="3646" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there laws or statutes governing the directing of traffic by citizens or &quot;members of the public&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A scenario I often encounter is one in which someone — typically another rider or pedestrian in a group that has stopped or slowed at road crossing — will signal an approaching driver to proceed across the flow of bicycle traffic. I realize that people who do this are trying to be helpful or courteous to the drivers, but they do so on behalf of others with whom they have not consulted and who they may not be aware of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I'm wondering what the laws are in &lt;strong&gt;Massachusetts&lt;/strong&gt;, though any information about New York City, London, Seattle and Vienna or other areas would be welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is someone who does this liable in any way for any accidents that might ensue? Are they legally permitted to direct traffic in this way? Do they assume any responsibility for others who may become involved in the consequences of their &quot;traffic direction&quot; (given that those others generally have no idea that such directions have been given)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastEditorUserId="1683" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T23:18:45.637" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T16:33:25.127" Title="What statutes govern the directing of traffic by citizens in Massachusetts?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6397" CreationDate="2011-10-06T23:57:26.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that someone &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; potentially liable for providing incorrect &quot;direction&quot;, though with two (well, three) caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - The person taking the &quot;direction&quot; cannot generally absolve themselves from all responsibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - There &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be &quot;Good Samaritan&quot; laws in effect that protect the &quot;director&quot; in some cases (most notably if doing something like directing traffic around an accident).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 - All of this goes out the window when you understand that, basically, anyone can sue anyone for anything, and you never can predict what a judge and jury are going to decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-10-07T03:36:43.900" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T03:36:43.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6401" CreationDate="2011-10-07T01:46:06.873" Score="8" ViewCount="705" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do any bike sharing schemes provide a way to rent or share helmets along with the bikes, either in a kiosk or through an arrangement with local businesses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the schemes that I've used (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/cycling/14808.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;London&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.citybikewien.at/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vienna&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thehubway.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boston&lt;/a&gt;) or am &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/167/1683&quot;&gt;aware of&lt;/a&gt; provide them, and in most that I'm aware of it is rare to see helmets in use at all, despite the fact that most recommend them and in several cities riding without them is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have any of the cities that have cycle hire schemes come up with a convenient way to provide helmets along with the bikes in a way that's consistent with the &quot;use and forget&quot; philosophy of the schemes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T13:50:06.037" Title="Do any bike sharing schemes provide a way to rent or share helmets along with the bikes?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;sharing-scheme&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6404" CreationDate="2011-10-07T08:34:52.050" Score="11" ViewCount="4531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hybrid commuter bike that is more at the mountain bike end of the spectrum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have slick road tyres on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a good idea to get mountain bike tyres on it to deal with the wet and icey winter conditions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard conflicting stories about if they help or not&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To clarify - this is for commuting to work on the road. Not for off-road stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2538" LastEditorUserId="2538" LastEditDate="2011-10-08T08:08:04.260" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T11:14:41.420" Title="Is it better to have mountain bike tyres for the winter?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2011-10-07T08:37:56.550" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Melbourne, we have a bike share scheme. You can buy helmets for $5 from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.melbournebikeshare.com.au/helmet-locations&quot;&gt;various outlets&lt;/a&gt; and then return them for a refund of $3 (they are then cleaned and reused).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite this, many people are saying that Australia's compulsory helmet laws are responsible for the lack of success of the bike sharing scheme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T08:37:56.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6400" CreationDate="2011-10-07T09:01:12.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knobby tires will definitely help when there is snow or wet leafs on the road.&#xA;They won't help with ice, though, only spiked tires are useful for icey roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastEditorUserId="2539" LastEditDate="2011-10-10T13:25:57.550" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T13:25:57.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6400" CreationDate="2011-10-07T11:27:56.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of factors that you will have to weigh up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knobbly tires will help with traction if the surface is covered with a loose/shifting covering i.e. leaves, mud, snow etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are planning on just riding in wet conditions, there are a number of slicker MTB tires that will help displace water, offer some off road affordance but still offer a good speed on the road, i.e. traction without increased rolling resistance. Try looking at the Panaracer Pasela or Ribmo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2540" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T11:27:56.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6400" CreationDate="2011-10-07T11:43:42.623" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on your anticipated conditions.  If you're planning on off-roading in snow you need tires with fairly heavy lugs (though too heavy will just collect snow).  For ice you definitely need metal-studded tires -- riding a bike on ice otherwise is like riding on grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride mostly on roads that are fairly heavily traveled by autos the best choice is fairly smooth studded tires where the studs are on the sides but the middle is smooth.  This way the studs engage when you lean at all, but don't seriously impede you when riding straight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://icebike.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;icebike.org&lt;/a&gt; has kind of fallen into disuse (the latest &quot;news&quot; is from 2006), but still has some good links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-10-07T12:45:18.740" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T12:45:18.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6397" CreationDate="2011-10-07T19:22:51.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Legally permitted to direct traffic (with force of law), no, not anywhere I'm aware of.  That's a state/police reserved power in all cases I can think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone do that in an advisory capacity, sure.  Are they opening themselves up to liability.  Yep.  Very much so.  Especially since there's no requirement that anyone follow their directions (thus they may appear to be offering &quot;safe crossing&quot; when they have no legal basis to be able to guarantee it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't do it, and use great caution when around people that &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T19:22:51.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6400" CreationDate="2011-10-07T20:15:35.883" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires are for bikes what shoes are to people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't go to every kind of activity always with the same pair of shoes, so with bikes it shouldn't be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think everyone should have enough tire sets to cover all the spectrum of terrains one regularly rides on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T20:15:35.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6408" CreationDate="2011-10-08T00:17:50.230" Score="3" ViewCount="7733" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, when I pedal sufficiently hard, I begin to feel vibrations through the whole frame of the bike. They are not so strong as to make the bike un-ridable, but neither are they road chatter. I suspect this to be somehow related to my recent replacement of a tire (i.e. the whole tire, not just the tube), but am unsure exactly &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; is making the sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is a 1973 Sekine road bike. The frame is original. The chain and freewheel have enough stretch in them that I'm planning to replace them both again soon. The rims are true, but I don't know their age (came with the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't appear to be any contact between the wheel and the frame of the bike or the brake pads. There &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a periodic grating sound which also starting after I replaced the tire. Possibly it is caused by the metal plate which sits between the freewheel and the hubs, but I am not certain of this (can't replicate it when I'm not sitting on the bike). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, this seems like a bad thing. I usually like to fix the bike myself, but I'm not sure what to fix in the this case. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T00:24:17.407" Title="Vibrations in frame when pedaling" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6407" CreationDate="2011-10-08T01:31:45.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it's hard to say from your description.  Is the vibration in time with the turning of the wheels, or much more rapid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vibration that's in time with the turning of the wheels may be a warped rim, a rim rubbing the brake pads, a tire that's not seated properly on the rim, etc.  (The fact that this occurred after changing the tire suggests that last possibility.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vibration that's much more rapid than the turning of the wheels is usually due to resonance in the frame.  You'll usually see this more often when going downhill at high speed -- the front wheel will suddenly begin vibrating violently, such that you fear losing control of the bike.  What's happening is that minor vibrations in the bike (or even just due to the road) found a resonance in the bike frame, and the vibration becomes self-reenforcing due to the way it causes the front wheel to twist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest first turning the bike over or hanging it somehow so you can spin the wheels freely.  Observe the wheels carefully, looking at the space between the rim and the brake pads.  Look for any change of distance as the wheel turns.  Some small amount (a millimeter or maybe two) is to be expected on a well-used bike, but any more is a problem.  Also, if the rim touches the brake pads, that's a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observe from the side and look to see whether the rim moves in and out (decreases or increases in diameter) in relation to the hub.  There should be no detectible motion in this direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next look at the tire while the wheel is spinning.  Look straight on so you can see both sides of the tire as it spins, and see if either side bulges out at any point.  Then look from the side to see if at any point the tire seems to increase or decrease in diameter.  Again, a one or two mm variation in these dimensions is probably OK, but no more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also look at where the tire disappears behind the rim.  There is generally a ridge in the tire a few mm from the rim, and it should maintain a fairly constant distance from the rim edge as the tire rotates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Since your problem began after changing the tire, these tire checks are likely to reveal that the tire is not evenly installed on the rim.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you have the wheels off the ground, grasp each wheel near the rim and push back and forth sideways, feeling for any play in the bearings.  You should not feel any play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, set the bike back on the ground, grip the front brakes to lock the front wheel (leaving the rear brakes free), and push the bike forwards and backwards.  You should not be able to feel any play in the &quot;headset&quot; (the bearing where the fork turns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T01:31:45.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6355" CreationDate="2011-10-08T02:11:21.083" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are from Germany so German laws are relevant. In this case &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gesetze-im-internet.de/stvo/__16.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;§16 I StVO&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(1) Schall- und Leuchtzeichen darf nur geben&#xA;  1. wer außerhalb geschlossener Ortschaften überholt (§ 5 Abs. 5) oder&#xA;  2. wer sich oder andere gefährdet sieht.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attempt at translating to English:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(1) Sound and light signals may only be used:&#xA;    1. when passing (overtaking) outside urban areas (§ 5 para 5) or&#xA;    1. when seeing yourself or others at risk&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you see a danger you may use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For practical terms it depends, as always, on the situation. I like ringing my bell, but I'm cautious with it. Too often I have seen that people are confused and stop or go to the wrong side or something. There are a few corners though which are quite narrow where I can't see what's coming where I make it dependent on my speed whether I ring or not. If I'm slow enough to stop in the case of something coming my way I'm often silent. When I'm faster I warn people who might hide behind a corner. Often it is better to ring once too much and annoy some people than not ringing and having an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greetings from Munich, btw. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-08T15:30:34.760" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T15:30:34.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6397" CreationDate="2011-10-08T03:04:17.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I stop for a pedestrian at a crossing, I may hold my hand across the lane to stop cyclists behind me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Signalling to others is probably legal IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm driving I'd like to take responsibility for my own conduct, and not drive into anyone no matter who or how anyone might signal at me. Every road I've driven on has clear right-of-ways, traffic lights, stops signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US law includes the notion of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contributory_negligence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;contributory negligence&lt;/a&gt; which may apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T03:04:17.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6407" CreationDate="2011-10-08T13:02:50.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you said - pedalling hard, chain almost worn out - it could be the worn chain working against worn cog teeth. I have a geared hub, and when I have this setup (worn drivetrain) it sometimes gives this grinding sensation, both by sound and by pedal feedback (tactile), because the chain rollers don'd disengage smoothly from cog's teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But sure I would also consider all of @Daniel R Hicks possibilities, specially a badly seated tube inside the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T13:02:50.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6417" CreationDate="2011-10-08T14:57:50.430" Score="20" ViewCount="5811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on riding my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merida-bikes.com/en_gb/bike/2012/50/MTB+Hardtail/MATTS+40-D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Merida Matts 40-D&lt;/a&gt; in mountains like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5xCSD.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperatures are usually around -20 °C and I was wondering whether anything can break on my bike due to the freezing conditions. Is there anything I should take special care of before/after any such riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-06T18:34:44.963" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T15:49:53.100" Title="Cycling on snow in extreme freezing conditions: will my bike break?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6415" CreationDate="2011-10-08T16:52:17.080" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I expect you should have ice tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brakes aren't user-serviceable, are they: so I'd ask whoever maintains them, about e.g. whether you have the right, sufficiently new and well installed brake pads. I bought a similar bike (i.e. alu and disc brakes) in Toronto in February for commuting, with the LBS assuring me it would be road-worthy. You have front suspension though as well, which I don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently hydraulic brake fluid should be OK to at least -30C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware of having to try to change a tire in that cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At -20 at riding on hills it might be difficult to choose the right clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T16:52:17.080" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6415" CreationDate="2011-10-08T18:12:50.213" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;-20C is -4F, cold enough to be uncomfortable for humans, but not particularly cold for mechanical equipment.  You will notice that lubricants get stiffer, but generally they warm up rapidly when you ride and the stiffness will be gone in a minute or two.  Hydraulic fluids, et al, should be good to -35C or below, though they will stiffen before that, noticeably increasing the response time of the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel and aluminum do get more brittle at colder temps, but not to a noticeable degree above -50C or so.  Plastics and composites, on the other hand, are a bit more unpredictable -- most plastics get noticeably more brittle below about -25C, though no doubt there is a wide variation depending on the specific materials involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice that the tires get stiffer, and people have reported difficulty with the tires becoming rock hard and spinning on the rims at low temps (eg, -20F).  Also, of course, rubber brake pads get harder, and rim brakes become much less effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's really nothing in a bike that isn't in a car, and cars can handle -35 or -40C.  And the places where you have trouble with cars is mostly the battery and fuel system, components you don't have on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-11-20T22:07:37.563" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T22:07:37.563" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6407" CreationDate="2011-10-08T21:23:03.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A grating sound linked to pedaling sounds like bottom bracket wear to me.  Try taking the chain off the chain ring, placing your ear against the seat and turning the pedals slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T21:23:03.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6428" CreationDate="2011-10-09T16:48:02.700" Score="12" ViewCount="8195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently own an old racing bike, that still has ripped steel rims and a side pull caliper brake. The braking power is acceptable when the street is dry, but as soon as it gets wet (even morning dew) it is getting harder and harder to stop. On the first time stopping, the brakes might even need up to 3 seconds until I feel something, and I have to pull the handles quite hard.&#xA;This was not a problem in summer, but since the weather is rainy most of the time now, I have to find a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole Bike cost me 50€, so buying new brakes or rims might not be in the budget. I heard about cork brake pads, that might provide better stopping power when wet, but only found very expensive ones. So if there is another solution, that I missed now, please let me know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Else I will have to ride one of my more expensive Bikes in the winter and have the risk of them getting stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T18:08:37.913" Title="Enhancing brake force with steel rims in wet conditions?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6427" CreationDate="2011-10-09T18:04:11.343" Score="10" ViewCount="26598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've discovered the brakes on my Bike Friday Tikit don't allow for enough clearance to run Schwalbe Marathon tires. The bike - a folding bike with 16&quot; rims - ships with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/4383682952/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kojak treadless tires&lt;/a&gt;. It looks like, as long as I have the existing caliper brakes - Tektro R530 brakes - I won't be able to run anything more robust than the Kojaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Brake removed from the bike:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/nChlil.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tektro R530 brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Brake on the bike, showing the tire:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/nJxFHl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tektro R530 brake on a Bike Friday Tikit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't any way to mount these brakes differently, and the frame only has braze-ons for these brakes. A smaller tire or a smaller brake are really my only options, short of mounting the rims farther out - a bit of a kludgey solution, I think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'm open to simply finding a smaller tire, I would much prefer to run Marathon tires as I'd like to use this bike for some light touring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Are there caliper brakes with more tire clearance I could mount on this bike? What should I look for in these brakes? Will new brakes require me to change my brake levers? (I'm using Tektro RX 4.1 reverse levers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T19:10:54.423" LastActivityDate="2020-05-10T17:42:26.010" Title="How to get more tire clearance with caliper brakes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6419" CreationDate="2011-10-09T19:26:35.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also ride an old bike wit steel wheels.Compared to my disc mountain bike the brakes seemed non exsistant. If your caliper uses threaded pads try KOOLSTOP BRK14 pads.They are a mountain bike design,they incorporate a wiper like edge that helps shed water and mud.They were a vast improvement for just a pad change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2548" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T19:26:35.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6400" CreationDate="2011-10-09T19:35:25.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One lesson I have learned about ice biking is that a some point you must put your feet down.I would suggest if you are planning on riding on icy slippery surfaces wear some sort of traction device on your shoes.They don't need to be overly aggresive,but enough to keep you from slipping while stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2548" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T19:35:25.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6424" CreationDate="2011-10-09T19:37:13.890" Score="6" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current saddle is starting to show its age and isn't as comfortable as I'd like on longer rides. I am considering buying a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously saddles differ in price and weight, but what other aspects should I look at when buying a new saddle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I've see Fizik adverts that suggest people should buy a saddle suited to their level of flexibility, with pictures of people attempting to touch their toes. Is this something I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T01:27:45.217" Title="What should I consider when buying a saddle?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6423" CreationDate="2011-10-09T20:22:23.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comfort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Width/size/fit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perineal cutout/groove (if that works for you)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low friction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Angle your pelvis will be at while riding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That last one is what I suspect Fizik is talking about with the flexibility.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're on a road bike and want to go as fast as possible, being bent forward more will help make you more aerodynamic. As long as getting more aerodynamic doesn't interfere with oxygen intake or leg motion that means going faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part of your pelvis you sit on a saddle is a sort of triangular shape with the point forward, so as you rotate your pelvis forwards a narrower part of that triangle is what you're sitting on. So you need a narrower saddle (and maybe some other shape changes) if you're in a more bent-forward position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also take into account that saddle fit is not an exact science, despite the measuring gimmicks many shops have. &lt;strong&gt;You'll probably just have to try a few saddles out.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T20:22:23.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6379" CreationDate="2011-10-09T22:18:48.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see a few options here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the lightest regular production commuter bike you can and keep the accessories light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a lightweight sporty bike and add some of those commuter features&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a &quot;ladies&quot; specialty bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a custom bike built&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything you add to the bike will add weight. A few things to think of with accessories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead of a heavy chain, get something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pitlocks&lt;/a&gt; to secure the wheels, seat collar and headset, and get a U-lock with a small internal area (but sufficiently heavy-duty) or handcuff style lock. A small opening U-lock is more secure than one with a wider opening (as long as the metal is the same thickness).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spend extra and get a lighter rack. Tubus makes Titanium ones for instance. There are also quickly removed racks, but they're all intended for very light loads (carrying the purse, not the groceries).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know if there's good options for lighter fenders, but there are fender models designed to be easy to install and uninstall without tools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay attention to tire weight. There are lighter puncture-resistant tire options, even if they're maybe not quite as puncture resistant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Stock commuter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most economical option is getting a regular production commuter bike, but it sounds like you've tried that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed when looking that often the higher-end hybrids are more like a flat-bar road bike but often preserve some of the commuter features. (I'm thinking specifically of having looked at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_2_fx_wsd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek 7.2FX WSD&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_6_fx_wsd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek 7.6FX WSD&lt;/a&gt;, the 7.6 is much lighter and sportier but has the same basic geometry and rack/fender mount stuff).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It used to be easy to find 26&quot; wheel hybrids, but they seem to be uncommon lately. Theoretically a smaller lightweight 26&quot; wheel hybrid would let you replace the rims and tires with lighter ones and get something lighter than a 700c wheeled bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sporty bike&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bikes are light, and it may be possible to find one with smaller wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes need to be light enough for the rider to run with on one shoulder. I've definitely seen short women cyclocross racers, I've seen cyclocross bikes that had bolt spots for racks and fenders, and I've seen cyclocross bikes used as commuters. Not sure if I've ever seen a short woman using a cyclocross bike as a commuter, though. Definitely never seen a short woman carrying her commuterized cyclocross bike on one shoulder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the hybrids are pretty much road bikes with flat handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more &quot;comfort&quot; type road bikes (Specialized Ruby, Trek Madone H3, etc) have handlebars about level with the seat and don't really require being bent over any more than on a hybrid. If she's doing 45 minutes on an indoor bike every day, a road bike might actually suit her better anyways. Probably not easy to add rack and fenders to, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Specialty bike&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://terrybicycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Terry&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.terrybicycles.com/Bicycles/Hybrid/Susan-B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Susan B&lt;/a&gt;. I don't know how much they specifically concentrate on weight, but smaller wheels let some of the other frame details be smaller and lighter. Many of these types of offerings have custom or semi-custom. You might be able to get a lighter &quot;road&quot; frame built up as a commuter, for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Custom bike&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If budget is no concern, it's worth looking at custom bike options. Look first for local framebuilders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common material for custom builders seems to be steel.  For what you're describing you may need aluminum and titanium would be better. There doesn't seem to really be any custom carbon out there, but you might be able to find something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A custom framebuilder should be able to build a bike with a smaller wheelsize for her. If you work with one that does titanium, it should be possible to do this particularly light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an expensive option, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The closest framebuilder to me, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sycip.com/bikes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SyCip&lt;/a&gt; does all sorts of frame types, but titanium starts at $3000, and that's just for the frame before adding the other $1000-$3000 worth of parts and accessories.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sevencycles.com/traveler/cafe-racer-s.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seven Cycles Cafe Racer&lt;/a&gt; looks a lot like what you're looking for and doesn't have prices listed for that model, but based on other pricing I see around their site I'm guessing it's at least $3700 for a complete bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sweetpeabicycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sweetpea Bicycles&lt;/a&gt; specializes in custom bicycles made for women. &quot;Complete bikes start at around $4500&quot;.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-10T22:02:26.867" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T22:02:26.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6419" CreationDate="2011-10-10T01:08:19.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any Koolstop salmon pads will give you better braking on steel rims. There's quite a big range to choose from so just go with what will fit your rim/tyre/caliper combination the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has an excellent run down on the different variations: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#threaded&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#threaded&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T01:08:19.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6420" CreationDate="2011-10-10T01:10:52.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an interesting question, well suited to this site! The problem is a common one for touring cyclists wanting a 25-32mm tyre and mudguard, where the solution is to 'get a bike with cantilever bosses'. You have a compound problem of short reach, a measurement you could do with measuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dual-pivot brake doesn't offer a lot of tyre clearance, but do you need dual pivot anyway? Campagnolo groupsets have the dual pivot on the front but single pivot on the back, here is the affodable-style Veloce option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXzPN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A high-end Campagnolo brake may just about work for you and be a classy addition to the bike, giving vastly improved stopping power over the Tektro efforts, but you still might struggle to get a big tyre on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mitigate against that by using a slightly thinner 16 * 1.35&quot; Marathon Plus tyre - this will give you more puncture protection than the 16 * 1.75 Marathon and would be my preferred option. Note that the 16 * 1.35 Marathon will have a lower profile than the 16 * 1.35 Marathon Plus, so more room can be gained at the expense of puncture protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth investigating are late 1980's era Weinmann and Dia-Compe side-pulls of the short-reach flavour. These will not have the stopping power of today's side-pulls, however, how much stopping power do you need to lock up the rear wheel? A bit of flex won't be the end of the world on the back brake, and these early brakes can be had for a good price. The shape of the arms on these brakes did allow for a reasonably fat tyre, the only real problem is getting the recessed allen key rather than bolt attachment. That said, the main bolt on the Weinmann brakes can be interchanged as they were available to suit recessed, Allen key fitting. Here are some Weinmann 500's, from centuries ago,but with compelling tyre clearance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R4gOP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were available in black. Another beauty is the 605. This one does not have the hex-bolt exposed to aid centering, but I don't think you can beat the combination of short reach and tyre clearance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QyksO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ebay is going to be your friend here, another option you might want to investigate is center-pull. Sticking with Weinmann, here is the 999, seemingly available in short reach flavour:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TwOAn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could run it U-brake style with some cable stop for the outer bolted onto the underside of the b/b, or investigate if that sort of thing is possible...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T01:10:52.267" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6419" CreationDate="2011-10-10T01:15:47.583" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here you go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2mJPw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;these are leather face brake blocks and they will work ten times better in the wet than any Johnny-come-lately Kool-Stop efforts on your steel rims. Pay no more than £3 a set, plus they last forever, and better when wet than when dry. What more could you want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T01:15:47.583" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6431" CreationDate="2011-10-10T01:16:21.333" Score="31" ViewCount="2806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just come to the USA (Bay Area) and got a bicycle to commute to my university. Being new to this place I kept wondering why sometimes I have to wait for a long time for a green light to make a left turn, and then a car comes along and the signal switches to green in ten seconds. Today I waited for a green light for five minutes and it did not come, since there were no cars in my lane. I started thinking I was insane, but then found this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2923/how-do-traffic-lights-notice-bicyclists&quot;&gt;How do Traffic Lights Notice Bicyclists?&lt;/a&gt; Sure enough, there are cameras in the intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do people deal with this? Wait for a car? Turn on the red light? Use the pedestrian style of making left turns? Wave to the camera?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2550" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T20:14:31.967" Title="Intersection detection doesn't notice me, what should I do?" Tags="&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6423" CreationDate="2011-10-10T01:27:45.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are more saddles on the market than I haver had hot dinners. It is the same with shoes, and I am fairly sure that 90% of the shoes on the market would give me personal discomfort if I was to buy them and be on my feet with them all day the next day after purchase. But, with the shoes I can mitigate against getting blisters etc. by wearing a comfy pair of socks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to look into wearing a comfy pair of shorts for your longer rides to get around any saddle comfort problems. There is no Holy Grail of comfortable saddle. Having said that, a couple of decades ago it was realised that you need a groove in the middle, so your sit-bones are supported, not the blood veins that go to your man-hood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to look into the simpler saddle designs that do not have lots of stitching and some resilience against scuffing when the bike is parked up against a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 90% of cases 90% of saddle comfort comes from having the saddle in the middle of the rails with the top of the saddle exactly level, the nose pointing exactly forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask what they recommend in your local bike shop and maybe pretend to be wanting to buy a road bike so you can test ride a few contemporary saddles. Then disappoint the sales guy by saying 'I will take just the saddle...'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T01:27:45.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6429" CreationDate="2011-10-10T01:47:42.220" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most states it's the law that if the signal is malfunctioning you can proceed through &quot;with caution&quot; against the signal.  Forester and others have argued that if a signal does not appropriately recognize the presence of a bike it's &quot;malfunctioning&quot; and you're on reasonably firm legal ground to invoke the &quot;malfunctioning signal&quot; provision.  (However, I've never heard of this being tested in court.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that the presence of a camera does not necessarily mean that the signal is video-controlled.  It may be that the cameras are there for general traffic monitoring, and the signal is still triggered by buried loop, radar detector, etc.  Also, often there are sensors installed for detecting oncoming emergency vehicles that look a little like a camera but are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a buried loop you can usually tell by observing the cuts in the pavement where the loop was installed (though of course a buried loop may be subsequently converted to video control).  But with a buried loop the best place for the bike, to optimize detection, is more or less directly over one side of the loop, vs being in the middle of the loop.  (As a last resort, lay your bike down over one side of the loop.  I used to deal with one intersection where I could trigger the signal by just leaning the bike to about 45 degrees.)  Note that a steel bike will usually be more effective than an aluminum one, and a carbon fiber bike is unlikely to be detected at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-10-10T02:24:41.160" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T02:24:41.160" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5741" CreationDate="2011-10-10T02:04:38.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Comparing bike brands is exceedingly difficult. A small number of bicycle factories produce the bicycles for many different brands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cannondale used to be made in the U.S.A. which made them different from other brands. Now they are mostly made in Asia along with other bike brands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quote from about 5 years ago to illustrate the complicated world of bicycle factories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Here is a short circumnavigation of the world of wheels. Starting in the old country, Europe, there is the German factory of Villiger/Diamant producing bikes for Trek. Italy's Dedacciai factory does some bikes for Kona. Some Bianchi bikes are still made in Italy too. The Ideal bicycle company has one of its factories in Poland producing bikes for Scott. China boasts the biggest factories with romantic names such as Boan, A-Pro, Sunrise, Kenstone, Kinesis, Ming Kao, Ideal and Giant. These places produce bikes for us under the labels of Norco, Rocky Mountain, Marin, Iron Horse, and Brodie. Taiwan, although not as large of a producer in numbers as China, is a technological leader. The Taiwanese factories of Merida, Fairly and Hodaka produce bikes for Specialized, Kona, and Fuji. There are new frontiers for manufacturing being explored in Thailand as Bangkok Cycle is building some Norco bikes and the Pt. Insera Sena factory in Indonesia creates product for Scott&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend going to your local bike store and talking to the staff there. If they are friendly, helpful and offer good service buy a bike from them that fits you, is comfortable to ride, and fits within your budget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they don't offer good service go elsewhere and find a shop that does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T02:04:38.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6429" CreationDate="2011-10-10T03:30:25.470" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cameras can also be red light cameras. Loops detectors can have smooth pavement. You may be able to figure out which cameras are definitely for signal control, though. I know in my area it's a very different style of camera placed in a different location than the red-light and emergency vehicle priority detection cameras.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming it is a camera-controlled intersection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's a little cycle symbol with lines put your tires on the lines. That's where the system is looking for a bicycle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be in the center of the lane, not the edge. The cameras are looking in a specific area for each lane, and if you're at the edge you might not register at all. Be where the camera is looking for a car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be bigger.  Wave your arms. Take off your jacket and wave that. If you have a light, shine that up at the camera.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of that works, depending on the exact details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If green for straight:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go straight through the intersection, pull over at curb and push pedestrian signal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go straight partway through the intersection, pull into the crosswalk on the right and flip your bike 90 degrees so that you're now at the front of the appropriate going straight lane for the direction you originally would've turned into. Smile and wave cheerfully at the confused car driver that's now behind you. (it's a &quot;box turn&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If red for straight:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right curb is easier/safer (can see cars behind you), so go over to right curb. Push both pedestrian signals and do the pedestrian 2-crossing left turn or a pedestrian style box turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can see any potential directions somebody would turn into the oncoming lane, you can go across to the left curb, in which case you should be able to just push one pedestrian button and start pedaling off when you're most of the way across in the crosswalk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're feeling brave and everything is totally clear for miles: proceed through the light (after stopping).  I didn't bother digging up the exact california law, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/hdbk/traff_lgts_sgns.htm#traffic_lights&quot;&gt;california driver's handbook&lt;/a&gt; basically says a malfunctioning signal should be treated like a 4-way stop.  The part where the signal is only malfunctioning for one specific lane isn't really well-covered, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a signal isn't picking you up, it's malfunctioning and needs to be fixed. It's a hazard. Note the exact location, day of week and time of day, and report the hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't say exactly where in the bay area you are. However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebbc.org/?q=hazards_map&quot;&gt;East Bay Bicycle Coalition&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesonoma.org/signals.html&quot;&gt;Sonoma County Bicycle Coalition&lt;/a&gt; have hazard reporting systems on their sites. &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesiliconvalley.org/resources/road-hazard/&quot;&gt;Silicon Valley Bicycle Coalition&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marinbike.org/Resources/RoadRepair.shtml&quot;&gt;Marin County Bicycle Coalition&lt;/a&gt; have guides to help you figure out who to call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T03:30:25.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-10T07:17:43.590" Score="13" ViewCount="14313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a road bike with brake lever shifters, and it's developed a small problem with age: sometimes, the shifter doesn't catch the first time or two I push it. It'll move easily, with no resistance, since it's not actually pulling on the cable, then after a few tries, catch and work normally. The colder the temperature, the more often this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how the mechanism works internally, so I'm curious what would cause this, and also whether it's (as I suspect) gradual wear of some part of the mechanism, and if it's likely to fail catastrophically, or gradually worsen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-10-10T09:36:04.613" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T04:16:20.810" Title="STI shifter sometimes doesn't catch in cooler weather" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6434" CreationDate="2011-10-10T09:35:10.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is dirt in the mechanism. A blast of WD40 in there should clear matters up and get your shifting working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't pull apart the mechanism, also try to avoid getting WD40 on the cable/inside the cable outer as that tends to increase cable friction by pushing dirt in and you do not want that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The WD40 product is not recommended for the chain on a bicycle, but for STI shifters it does a good job of getting them lightly lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T09:35:10.853" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-10T15:36:45.203" Score="8" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this really cool, very unusual type of bike which does not use spokes for the back tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xdW00.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you please tell me if you are experienced and interested in such bikes how can I find one of those or build one. I've tried reversed image search engines like tineye.com but I couldn't find any results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore if you are a fan of such type of bikes could you supply me with some 'juicy' links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2556" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2011-10-10T17:32:17.630" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T00:50:42.620" Title="Where can I find out more about this bike with a spoke-less back wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6436" CreationDate="2011-10-10T16:12:52.350" Score="14" Body="&lt;h3&gt;The &amp;quot;Lunartic Cycle&amp;quot;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yankodesign.com/2010/08/13/no-spokes-cycle/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.yankodesign.com/2010/08/13/no-spokes-cycle/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complete with movie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your extra reading material:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycledesign.net/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bicycledesign.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T16:12:52.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-10T21:05:24.310" Score="0" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick question. I can't change gear with a shifter, I suppose the gear cable might be an explanation. I don't have skills to repair that myself. It's stuck in high gear and I just want to lower it. Is there a possiblity to change gear manually? If yes, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2559" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T23:37:10.843" Title="internal hub gear" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6438" CreationDate="2011-10-10T23:37:10.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very generally speaking, the hub is operated by a cable that pulls on a rod sticking out of the center of the hub.  If you can figure out what adjustment makes that rod go in and out you can change the gear (assuming it's not the hub itself that is frozen and not allowing a gear change).  But you need to get the adjustment right, since, for some hub styles, being &quot;between&quot; gears is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T23:37:10.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6400" CreationDate="2011-10-11T00:44:56.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As other posters have noted, knobby tires will definitely help in snow and other winter-type road messiness.  I doubt this would work on hard water ice (and I haven't tried it myself) but there is some information out there about using &lt;a href=&quot;http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20026081-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;zip ties as makeshift tire studs&lt;/a&gt;.  For hard packed snow and crusty ice, it seems like this would add quite a bit of traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1470" LastEditorUserId="1470" LastEditDate="2011-10-11T00:50:25.427" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T00:50:25.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6436" CreationDate="2011-10-11T00:50:42.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Experienced and/or interested&quot;: Not for real world use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regular spoked wheel is a very good and optimized solution to the &quot;wheel&quot; problem: light, stiff, low rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shown wheel is more of a curiosity, something to startle people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, for sure, it is a good way to create potentially useful space &quot;inside&quot; the wheel...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T00:50:42.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2011-10-11T04:37:37.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found some pictures if the bike at euro bike 2011. It has some changes since &quot;way back home&quot; like two disk brakes. I look forward to buying one next year when inspired said it would be out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link for photos&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://singletrackworld.com/2011/09/eurobike-2011-danny-macaskills-inspired-trials-bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://singletrackworld.com/2011/09/eurobike-2011-danny-macaskills-inspired-trials-bike/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2561" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T04:37:37.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5741" CreationDate="2011-10-11T14:33:02.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks should pretty much take a back seat (no pun intended) to how it feels. Some folks like certain manufacturers or frame types because of the geometry of the frame (yes, I know there's a standard within the industry, but lots of manufacturers tweak that for aesthetics, their preferred geometry, the alignment of the stars, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, go to the store and SIT ON THE BIKES. If there's one hanging on the wall that you want to sit on, ask to have it pulled down. You're doing 2 things - testing out the bike's fit and testing out the store. Do the guys at the store give you a huge attitude when you ask them to pull the $7000 bike down off the wall / off the stand? Or do they spend a couple of extra minutes making sure the seat post, etc. are set so you're comfortable? I agree with Tama - if your local bike store isn't doing it for you, don't go there. There's nothing better than the feeling of a good local bike store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T14:33:02.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6459" CreationDate="2011-10-11T20:28:40.303" Score="13" ViewCount="9798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am commuting in rainy Seattle, and the rain has started.  Right now I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle_de_en/themes/race/gatorskin_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Continental Gatorskin&lt;/a&gt; tires on my commuter, but yesterday I noticed I was braking to stop the wheels and skidding quite a bit on wet roads.   I know I can gradually adjust braking on front and back to come out of the skid, but I was wondering if i should replace my tires to get a little more grip.  My LBS seems to think thin slicks are fine however.  Is there a study or data on tire types on wet pavement? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastEditorUserId="10856" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T18:52:32.030" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T18:52:32.030" Title="What is the recommended type of tire for riding on wet pavement?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6444" CreationDate="2011-10-11T21:48:33.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you need to analyze the pavement a bit -- smooth pavement or rough, is it generally pretty clean or is there a light coating of sand or dust, or perhaps a heavy coating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Narrow, high-pressure bike tires do not &quot;hydroplane&quot; at non-supersonic speeds, so you don't need to worry about that.  But there is still a thin layer of water between tire and road surface, sufficient to impact the coefficient of friction, and some sort of &quot;tread&quot; or &quot;siping&quot; helps significantly.  Any dust or sand exacerbates the problem, and a smooth surface (especially worn-smooth asphalt) can get treacherous.  I don't know of any hard numbers (though I would suspect they're out there somewhere), but &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siping_%28rubber%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has this to say (about auto tires): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Treadless racing &quot;slicks&quot; on dry roads give maximum traction. These&#xA;  have no sipes, no grooves, and no tread blocks. They also have very&#xA;  poor traction however on even slightly wet surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T21:48:33.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-12T01:12:51.523" Score="3" ViewCount="4041" Body="&lt;p&gt;2003ish Cannondale six13, all Ultegra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frequently, but not always, when I'm coasting at a fast pace, usually down a hill, the bike will start making this hideous screeching/grinding noise.  It is silenced if I rotate the pedals a bit, but might start up again immediately.  I'm reasonably certain it's coming from the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the bottom bracket, why would it be making this sound?   Can the existing one be serviced to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it can't be serviced, should I just get a new bottom bracket and install it, or could it be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I cannot reproduce this off the bike, what should I look for if I take things apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2564" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T14:36:42.847" Title="screeching/grinding sound when coasting at speed" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6450" CreationDate="2011-10-12T01:15:14.633" Score="3" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing a 210km (130 mile) ride on Sunday. I assume it'd help me to taper but I'm not sure about the most effective method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much should I ride in the last 3-4 days before the ride? My current plan is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wednesday: Normal 40km (24 mile) commute &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thursday: Lunchtime ride of&#xA;20km (12 miles) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friday: Lunchtime ride of 20km (12 miles) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saturday: Rest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sunday: Ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bv.com.au/general/great-rides/93272/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; (which is actually related to the ride I'm doing) suggests that I'm close, but should rest on Friday and do a short ride on Saturday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some information about my training:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've done this ride before and I'm confident I can finish it, I just want to finish it as strongly/comfortably as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've done 100km+ (60miles+) for the last 3 weekends in training, along with daily commutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up doing a slightly longer ride on Thursday, but other than that I stuck to the schedule above. I did feel more rested at the start of the Sunday and I was grateful for the day off on Saturday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ausport.gov.au/ais/nutrition/factsheets/competition_and_training2/carbohydrate_loading&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carbo loaded&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the variables I'm not sure what helped, but I did feel strong for the ride and didn't '&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hitting_the_wall&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bonk&lt;/a&gt;', which was a definite improvement over previous years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T21:05:45.117" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T21:05:45.117" Title="How do I taper for a century+ ride?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;century&gt;&lt;preparation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6446" CreationDate="2011-10-12T01:45:14.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's impossible for it to be coming from the bottom bracket while the pedals are not turning.  More likely it's coming from the rear hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd first check whether the spoke guard (if you have one) has come loose and is rubbing against the cluster.  And inspect the area behind the cluster for any piece of trash that has gotten in there.  Failing that, you probably have a problem with your freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T01:45:14.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6415" CreationDate="2011-10-12T06:38:50.137" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Yakutsk, Russia, where the temperature sometimes drops as low as -45 °C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think anything can break if all your parts are in good condition. But I think you shouldn't let your bike stay out in the cold for too long. I suspect the oil in the suspension fork can freeze, temporarily changing it into a rigid fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need ice tires if you plan to ride on ice, but not if you plan to ride only on snow. For snow riding, knobby tires are fine, even if the snow is hard as concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOT4 or DOT5 hydraulic fluid will surely be fine. Mineral oil also shouldn't freeze, but I have no experience with brakes with oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget: your tire and fork pressures should be a bit higher because of the low temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last, but not least, choose your clothing carefully. Especially your gloves and shoes. Layer your sweatshirts so that you can remove a layer after about twenty minutes of riding. A windbreaker is very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T00:03:19.323" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T00:03:19.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6447" CreationDate="2011-10-12T08:32:12.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agree that a short ride on Saturday is useful to keep things ticking over, resting on the Friday, so long as the substitute commute isn't too stressful, might be more useful. Your body needs some down time and a 'clean' 24+ hours is quite important for genuine recovery.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to do on the Saturday is to use the short ride as a dress rehearsal, use all the kit that you plan to take with you - you've probably got more time to do this on the Saturday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you're going to drive to the start line, then do that on the Saturday too. At least, pack the bike and bits into/on to the car and drive somewhere to do the test ride. Do your best to mimic game day. Just to let you relax knowing you haven't forgotten anything. This is especially important if there's &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; new in your setup - nothing new on the day is a crucial mantra (not new shoes, socks, tyre, nothing!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T08:32:12.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6447" CreationDate="2011-10-12T10:16:32.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the amount of taper you need is directly proportional to how much time you expect to ride at high intensity. The more high intensity you need, so the taper. For example, usually taper is more important for event such as short prologue, fast track rides than longer ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you expect to stay at a relative low/moderate intensity for the whole event, I suspect that you may actually be tapering too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T10:16:32.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6455" CreationDate="2011-10-12T10:28:00.173" Score="5" ViewCount="9583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was out riding on my mountain bike when my crank unexpectedly fell off (&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/L7W2c3fBpyo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I reattach the crank? There's a torque range specified (25-30 Ft-Lbs):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ysSnC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how critical is this? I don't own a torque wrench, if I use an allen key and just guess am I likely to either apply to much force and break something or apply to little force and have the crank work loose again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T17:44:29.433" Title="My crank fell off, how do I re-attach it?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6457" CreationDate="2011-10-12T10:52:56.710" Score="2" ViewCount="10567" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inner tube on my bike burst the other day, I took it home and salvaged another one from a bike that's been sitting unused in my garage for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The New(old) innertube inflates fine but when I inflated it I noticed that the inner tube was spilling out through a gash in the stitching of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've temporarily replaced the tire with another that I had lying about but the ripped one was a semi slick and the one I've replaced it with is a mountain biking one, I'd prefer a semi slick tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I'm going to have to replace the tire as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new inner tube seems spongier and I can't seem to get it to inflate as much as the old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a relatively new to (serious) cycling, and this is the first time I've had to replace an inner tube or a wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mainly cycle on roads and cycle paths, the cycle path I use it just rough enough for me not to justify getting a full on road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to know in order to go into a shop and get the right replacement inner tube/ tire for my bike? I'm aware that there are different sizes of tyre (mine is 26&quot;) and there is another number which I assume is width (Old was 1.5&quot;). Is this all I need to know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to know anything about the inner tubes? I assume the size is the same as the tire, are there different grades or types of inner tube? Why would one be spongier than the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T12:59:09.070" Title="What do I need to know when replacing my inner tube/tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6452" CreationDate="2011-10-12T11:13:58.870" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, crank fixing bolts need A LOT of torque.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/uploads/files/blog/torque.pdf&quot;&gt;chart&lt;/a&gt; list torques for several varieties of crank arms.  (I suspect you have a variety of Octalink.)  You're probably looking at something in the neighborhood of 350 inch pounds, which would be 35 pounds applied to a 10-inch lever arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much force and you shear the bolt.  Too little force and the arm works loose again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The torque spec embossed on the bottom bracket cup is most certainly for the cup, not the crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, if your crank arm fell off I suspect it's been damaged, and is apt to no longer fit tightly, no matter how tight the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T11:13:58.870" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6453" CreationDate="2011-10-12T11:20:24.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically you just need a tube that's the right size (diameter and width) for the tire.  And of course you need the right stem -- the thin Presta stem, or the thick auto-style Schraeder stem -- depending on what your rim is drilled for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various grades of tubes, but you most certainly want just the standard grade.  Thin ones designed for racing leak down rapidly, while thick ones designed to resist punctures are really bulky and hard to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be wary of a shop that doesn't have the right size tube (the range of sizes should be printed on the box the tube comes in) and tries to sell you what they have in stock.  While a &quot;slightly wrong&quot; size will often work, it will be hard to install and will be apt to not run smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Also note that for a small cut in a tire you can often get away with using a &quot;boot&quot; behind the hole.  This can be a specially made piece of thin, flexible plastic, a piece cut from the sidewall of a lightweight tire, or even a piece of folded currency, if yours (as in the US) is fairly rugged.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-10-12T12:21:30.450" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T12:21:30.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6453" CreationDate="2011-10-12T11:41:02.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Omar,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I understand the issue. Just to clarify, is this what happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Burst tyre. Replaced tube with one left lying around.&#xA;This revealed a split in the sidewall, thus the tyre is now gash.&#xA;Now looking for a new tyre to replace the old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All mountain bikes (well, almost all. But we'll leave that aside for the moment) have 26&amp;quot; diameter wheels, so that shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bike tyres tend to come in toroidal diameters of 1.9-2.35&amp;quot;. They also tend to be fairly flexible to help with grip &amp;amp; dampening down impacts. This will be why you're feeling the difference between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commuting/slick tyres seem to com in 1.25-1.5&amp;quot;. They will have a harder casing, be more resilient and (obviously) lack all the knobbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, answer time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a 26&amp;quot; tyre. I'd go for something that matches your remaining functional tyre, so you want a 1.5&amp;quot;. Be aware that not all companies' tyres come up the same (Specialized come up big for the measurement &amp;amp; Panaracer come up small).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after that there are some choices to be made. If you can afford it, you want to replace with a &amp;quot;folding&amp;quot; tyre. This means that the bead around the edge of the tyre is made of kevlar or similar plastic rather than steel wire. This makes the tyre lighter (and thus easier to accelerate or brake) and, crucially makes it easier to get on and off in the case of another puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different tyres offer different levels of protection against punctures &amp;amp; pinch flats. It's best to have a look at each individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hargrovescycles.co.uk/products.asp?category=Wheels%20Tyres%20Tubes&amp;amp;product=Nimbus%2026%20X%201.50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specialized Nimbus&lt;/a&gt; is a good tyre, but with the wire bead. Available in 1.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=53937&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Panaracer&lt;/a&gt; might be worth a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;EDIT:&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, Daniel makes a good point about valves. The chances are you're on Schrader (car type), but look at what's on the other wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding tubes themselves. They're pretty much much of a muchness. Specialized ones are good, continental ones are fine but pricey. Only buy something that has a brand on the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding tubes, again Daniel is spot on. They come with a range of sizes. So long as your tyre is within that range you'll be fine (though Mel's been running 1.5-2.2 tubes in a piar of 2.35 tyres for about 6 months without any issues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2567" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T12:59:09.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6444" CreationDate="2011-10-12T12:17:03.817" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are riding on the road, slicks are fine in the wet. If you need to go over any mud, etc. then you'll need something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#tread&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bicycle tires for on-road use have no need of any sort of tread&#xA;  features; in fact, the best road tires are perfectly smooth, with no&#xA;  tread at all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, most people assume that a smooth tire will be slippery,&#xA;  so this type of tire is difficult to sell to unsophisticated cyclists.&#xA;  Most tire makers cater to this by putting a very fine pattern on their&#xA;  tires, mainly for cosmetic and marketing reasons. If you examine a&#xA;  section of asphalt or concrete, you'll see that the texture of the&#xA;  road itself is much &quot;knobbier&quot; than the tread features of a&#xA;  good-quality road tire. Since the tire is flexible, even a slick tire&#xA;  deforms as it comes into contact with the pavement, acquiring the&#xA;  shape of the pavement texture, only while in contact with the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;People ask, &quot;But don't slick tires get slippery on wet roads, or worse&#xA;  yet, wet metal features such as expansion joints, paint stripes, or&#xA;  railroad tracks?&quot; The answer is, yes, they do. So do tires with tread.&#xA;  All tires are slippery in these conditions. Tread features make no&#xA;  improvement in this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worthy of note is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Car and truck tires need tread, because these vehicles are prone to a&#xA;  very dangerous condition called &quot;hydroplaning.&quot; This happens when&#xA;  driving fast in very wet conditions, which can lead to the tire riding&#xA;  up onto a cushion of liquid water. When this happens, there is a&#xA;  sudden and total lack of traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles can &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; hydroplane because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bicycle tire has a curved road contact. Since a bicycle leans in&#xA;corners, it needs a tire with a rounded contact area, which tends to&#xA;push the water away to either side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bicycle tire is narrower, so not as much water is in contact with&#xA;the leading edge at once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The high pressure of bicycle tires is more efficient at squeezing the&#xA;water out from under.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At high speeds, hydroplaning is just possible for car tires, but is&#xA;absolutely impossible for bicycle tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-10-14T10:24:31.453" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T10:24:31.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6444" CreationDate="2011-10-12T13:26:55.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The conti's really are just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's just less friction on wet roads and so your rear wheel is going to skid at a lower deceleration. A wider tire will be a little more helpful because your contact patch is larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that some material compositions are better than others. In particular, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michelinbicycletire.com/michelinbicycle/index.cfm?event=krylion.view&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Michelin carbons&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.avocet.com/tirepages/carbon12.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;avocet carbon 15's&lt;/a&gt; are claimed to have more grip in wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then you have to balance that with puncture resistance. In addition to reduced traction, you also have a greater probability of getting a flat in the rain. Which one is worse? It's up to you. The michelin's and avocet's are nowhere near as durable as the conti-gatorskins (there's a reason they're highly popular as high mileage urban tires). But if you're doing office-park crits in the rain you're better off with the michelin/avocet's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T13:26:55.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2011-10-12T15:40:39.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I would get disk brakes again. I used to have v-brakes, but thought disk brakes would be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages stated are true but I've found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are harder to maintain. I was able to make simple adjustments to my v-brakes very easily, but I don't know where to start with disk brakes. (This could just be lack of knowledge on my part)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get oil on the disk and it gets on to the pads they will squeak badly and the pads may need replacing (Seems obvious now, but I just needed to be more careful when cleaning my bike and use a clean cloth for cleaning the disks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stopping power seems comparable to my old v brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problems with disk brakes could probably be fixed by a little bit more knowledge, but if you're not familiar with disk brakes then these things are not worth thinking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastEditorUserId="25662" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T15:07:07.250" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T15:07:07.250" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6463" CreationDate="2011-10-12T15:53:40.360" Score="18" ViewCount="90111" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake handles for my disk brakes became very loose four months after I bought the bike. The bike shop bled the brakes and put new oil in them, which sorted it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're feeling a bit loose again (6 months later), but not as bad as last time. I use my bike most days cycling for commuting (6 miles) with longer rides of around 30 miles once or twice a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often would you expect to have to bleed your disk brakes and if you had to do it more often would that suggest there was something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2018-03-15T07:05:07.970" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T12:00:10.783" Title="How often should hydraulic disk brakes need bleeding?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2011-10-12T18:11:57.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, hydraulic brakes should only need bleeding when the system has been &quot;opened up&quot; for some reason, or when a leak has either allowed air in or allowed enough brake fluid to drain out that the master cylinder is pumping air.  The &quot;need to bleed&quot; indicates a problem with the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On autos, hydraulic brakes should be drained and new fluid installed about every 50,000 miles (though this is rarely done).  Comparable mileage on a bike would probably be 5,000-10,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T18:11:57.100" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6477" CreationDate="2011-10-12T18:58:31.143" Score="7" ViewCount="13270" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is related to the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6444/what-is-the-recommended-type-of-tire-for-riding-on-wet-pavement&quot;&gt;What is the recommended type of tire for riding on wet pavement&lt;/a&gt;&quot; question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also live in Seattle. So now has come the time where I often need to go down some steep hills on wet pavement. When I need to stop I sometimes skid. What is the best way to stop or prevent the skidding/fishtailing? Either, new components for the wet weather or new techniques I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T06:51:51.103" Title="What is the best way to prevent skidding/fishtailing on wet pavement?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6464" CreationDate="2011-10-12T19:21:12.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's some technique: Slow down. Allow extra distance to come to a stop. Hang your back end over the saddle, to shift weight toward the rear of your bike. Brake harder on the rear wheel than the front wheel; doing this reduces the risk that your front wheel will lock and cause you to fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-10-13T15:47:32.207" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T15:47:32.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6464" CreationDate="2011-10-12T20:04:15.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use your tire presure a bit lower than you'd use on dry surfaces, since it improves the tire traction (provided you do not underinflate them too much, as to make the tire deform laterlly while cornering, or pinch flatting while transposing small obstacles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T20:04:15.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6470" CreationDate="2011-10-12T23:22:05.257" Score="1" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stock rush hour bottom bracket is a FSA BB-7420.  Would a Shimano BB-UN54 that is 68 X 107mm work in that frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2578" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T00:08:47.090" Title="What Bottom Bracket for a 2007 Rush Hour frame?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1751" CreationDate="2011-10-12T23:25:29.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my B-17 in the rain, on the trail, through the mud, rivers, and streams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't apply Proofide and it stays in great shape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was worn in about a 2 years ago and I tightened the spanner bolt about 1 full turn and it hasn't moved since.  I even branded the leather with my initials and it hasn't changed the way it feels on my bum.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cant imagine a better saddle to ride.  With not having any trouble out of mine in all weather/all mountain riding, I say go for it, just keep an eye on it to make sure its not doing something crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2579" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T23:04:47.477" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T23:04:47.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6468" CreationDate="2011-10-13T00:08:47.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The frame is almost certainly a 68mm English-threaded shell.  Beyond that, the cranks you're using and the desired chainline determine the bottom bracket spindle length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rest of the bike is stock, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2007&amp;amp;Brand=Raleigh&amp;amp;Model=Rush+Hour&amp;amp;Type=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikePedia&lt;/a&gt; claims that the crankset is a TruVativ Touro Track. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.dahon.com/support/manuals/2009/components/truvativ_5_arm_crankset.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Truvativ Crankset&lt;/a&gt; docs specify a 108mm bottom bracket with that crankset giving you a 43.5mm chainline. Reducing that by a half millimeter or so by switching to a 107mm bottom bracket should be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T00:08:47.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2011-10-13T01:07:07.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My own personal experience of the Melbourne BikeShare scheme is relatively extensive and I have spoken to quite a few tourists at the various kiosks even if only to help them understand how it works(It is actually quite simple and easy by international standards).&#xA;Invariably they express a disinterest in hiring a bike when they learn that a helmet is mandatory. On a couple of occasions when I offhandedly suggested I had seen a few people not wearing helmets and there seemed to be no interest from the police in this they hired bikes. It is impossible to refute the claim that the helmets are not limiting the success of the scheme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2580" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T01:07:07.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1751" CreationDate="2011-10-13T02:44:27.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not everyone thinks that a leather saddle, i.e. 'Brooks', is necessarily suited to year round riding. Hence there is an aftermarket saddle cover specifically designed for 'Brooks' saddles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.randijofab.com/products-page/bicycle-accessories/saddle-cover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.randijofab.com/products-page/bicycle-accessories/saddle-cover&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned about your 'Brooks' seat holding up over winter then you might want to get one. I got a cover for my girlfriend, its well constructed and seems like it should hold up very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2581" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T10:27:39.200" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T10:27:39.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6434" CreationDate="2011-10-13T02:58:31.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;WD40 works well as a solvent, but not as a long term lubricant.  It will evaporate fairly quickly, leaving a gummy residue.&#xA;Remove the cable from the shifter.  This will allow you to get the housing out of the way as well as make it much easier to get at everything.&#xA;Flush the shifter with solvent and actuate it several times, both up and down, and if possible spray it out with an air compressor.&#xA;I've used a lubricant called &quot;Bike Aid&quot; with good results, just drip a bunch in and actuate the shifter again.  It is a dry lubricant (graphite based I belive) so it shouldn't attract grime like an oil-based lube will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2581" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T02:58:31.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2011-10-13T11:59:14.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brisbane has a bike sharing scheme where a helmet is included with some (not all) of the bikes.  I don't believe it is an additional fee.  With regards to head lice, it is gets hot enough in Brisbane that they aren't likely to survive for very long in a helmet without food. The Brisbane Council is expanding the sharing scheme and I am often seeing people on these bikes where I work in South Brisbane. The other thing that has helped the success of the bike share in Brisbane is more reasonable pricing.  I think $2-3 for the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T11:59:14.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-13T12:07:38.727" Score="8" ViewCount="4936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to understand how a tapered head tube works. Does it require a tapered steerer, or is it the case that the steerer is a consistent diameter top and bottom and just the bearings differ in size top and bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on building a bike out of bamboo and am trying to assess the suitability of some newer bike tech like tapered head tubes, press fit bottom brackets etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T22:30:32.530" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T22:30:32.530" Title="Tapered Head Tube" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-13T12:52:21.433" Score="6" ViewCount="5944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up a bike I want to ride in Seattle rain, but missed the fact that the frame had no braze-ons for attaching full-coverage fenders. I already have a set of SKS Raceblades, but they only provide partial coverage. Do any manufacturers make full-coverage fenders I could use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-10-13T15:40:13.060" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T20:16:03.670" Title="How can I add full fenders to a frame with no braze-ons?" Tags="&lt;rain&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6464" CreationDate="2011-10-13T13:22:04.447" Score="13" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Being aware of your weight distribution can help a lot. You want to make sure you are not leaning forward and taking pressure off of the rear tire. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can also help keep your rear tire planted by giving a slight downward twist on the handlebars with your wrists. Kind of the opposite of a bunny hop. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As far as braking technique goes, try to be &quot;progressive&quot; about it. Instead of just applying all the braking power at once, or applying a tiny bit of brakes and just waiting for the bike to run out of steam. Try squeezing the lever, and as you start to slow, apply more and more brakes. This will help you stop in a shorter distance without your losing traction. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note about skidding: Generally rear tire skids can be handled when they happen. A lot of times the best way to ride them out is to keep on the brake and slowly ease it back out. If you just let go of the brake immediately, the rear tire can snap back around and it is easy to lose control. Front tire skids are a little different. If your front tire starts to skid you &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; want to let go of the front brake immediately. Keeping your front tire rolling is very important to maintaining control of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2212" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T13:22:04.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6476" CreationDate="2011-10-13T15:21:26.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use cable clamps to attach to the fork arms and seat stays for the fender stays.  If the bike has bosses for center-pivot brakes you can anchor the top of the fender to them.  Without the brake bosses, though, I'm not sure how you'd anchor at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T15:21:26.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6476" CreationDate="2011-10-13T17:20:14.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crud Roadracer Mk2s offer a bit more coverage than raceblades I believe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crudproducts.com/products/roadracer/roadracer_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.crudproducts.com/products/roadracer/roadracer_&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2574" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T17:20:14.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6434" CreationDate="2011-10-13T17:29:08.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used the wd40 method myself on my old RSX shifters. I noticed the same thing where it wouldn't catch while trying to shift, so I removed the levers (didn't take them apart mind you) and sprayed wd40 into them while continually shifting up and down. After shifting up a down a few times they worked brand new, or as great as the RSX shifters ever have. I think I replaced the cables at that point too but that was only because I was trying to be nice to my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T17:29:08.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6476" CreationDate="2011-10-13T19:30:43.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have suspension fork with absolutely no brazeon or eyelets. I have SKS Chromoplastics which I used to attach the normal way to my previous steel fork, which had the eyelets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These Chromoplastics, if not perfect, have served me very well for some years now (with a lot of off-road abuse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These fenders are currently being manufactured in an &quot;upgraded&quot; version called Longboard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sks-germany.com/?l=en&amp;amp;a=product&amp;amp;r=mudguards&amp;amp;i=10438&amp;amp;LONGBOARD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sks-germany.com/?l=en&amp;amp;a=product&amp;amp;r=mudguards&amp;amp;i=10438&amp;amp;LONGBOARD&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I solvd the problem  very satisfactorily by passing a ziptie through the safety-clip bolt hole (lower-left part of the image below), and then clamping the metal shafts (which had to be shortened) to the safety-clip, the way they are supposed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a patch of used-tube rubber between the safety-clip and the suspension, to avoid paint damage and to improve firmness and dampening eventual noise and vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to get some aftermarket safety-clips and do the same on the rear part of the bike. And if it is not possible, rubber, zipties and drilled aluminum plates solve a lot of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safety clip I refer to is this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWUeZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T19:30:43.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2011-10-13T19:35:44.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the &quot;regular bleeding&quot; that every hydraulic brake needs should be at most once every Three to Five years, unless some problem happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with sane sealings, there is always some chemical degradation and contamination of the fluid, which decreases its performance, but it happens very slowly if at all, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T19:35:44.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2011-10-13T20:09:28.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tapered head tubes are designed to work with tapered steerers, with the steerer designed to be used with a 1.5&quot; headset at the bottom and 1 1/8&quot; at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary advantages of a tapered headtube are to allow for the greater bearing surface and stiffness of a 1.5&quot; steerer and lower bearing surface while reducing weight (slightly) and allowing the use of conventional 1 1/8&quot; threadless stems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reducing headset adapters exist that can be used to replace the lower bearing with one that is designed for a 1 1/8&quot; steerer (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18085&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this model from Hope&lt;/a&gt;), and Cane Creek makes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-components/2011-cane-creek-40-series-44-tapered-headset-8741.29.1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tapered headset&lt;/a&gt; that lets you use a tapered steerer in a straight headtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T20:09:28.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6476" CreationDate="2011-10-13T20:16:03.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bike has classic-style steel rear dropouts, you might try the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rodcycle.com/articles/ufo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rodriguez Components Universal Fenderizing Object&lt;/a&gt;.  It's basically a machined screw and plate set that gives you a secure fender mounting position.  Plus, hand-made in Seattle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.rodbikes.com/articles/graphics/ufo3.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, zip-ties or hose clamps can mount the fender stays to the seatstay and fender brackets to bridge the brakes can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unc.edu/~alanj/Fender%20mounting.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;improvised out of pieces of flat stock&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.003" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T20:16:03.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-13T20:17:30.360" Score="12" ViewCount="876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never really been very athletic - I started cycling around the city a few months ago, did a 30 mile ride recently (and felt great after it - could have done more, although the pace wasn't very fast). Did some other shorter rides with some groups that killed me (lots of hills, pace was around 12-14mph which wasn't bad, but man, those hills), but I've definitely noticed an improvement (I'm much faster now than I was 3 months ago). I'm currently dieting and working with a personal trainer to be more fit (he's mostly working with me on my core), but there's still a long way for me to go. I could probably lose around 15lbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, winter is approaching, and I've been fascinated by cyclocross. I want to be able to do some races next year (yes I realize that the season has just started). So, what should I start doing now to get myself in shape, so that in a year I can race cyclocross? I wont really be able to train outside, since it'll start snowing soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant information - I'm 22, female, I have a really old road bike that I ride around the city and when I go out to longer rides on the weekends, and a cheap mountain bike. I was considering buying a trainer for the winter (should I?). I'd like to eventually buy a better road bike (~$1000 range) for the next season so that I can go on some serious rides, and well, if I end up doing cyclocross, maybe buy a cyclocross bike as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be appreciated! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2586" LastEditorUserId="279" LastEditDate="2011-10-18T19:50:29.540" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T22:58:13.390" Title="Can I do cyclocross if I've never really been very athletic?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2011-10-13T21:07:39.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like the main question you have is &quot;what should I start doing now to get myself in shape, so that in a year I can race cyclocross?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Periodization is the Roadmap - Intervals and Hills are the Key&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Periodization&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The main principle in athletic improvement is interchanging periods of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Base Building / Recovery&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; with periods of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Strength/Speed/Skill Building&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  Where you are looking at starting a race schedule a year from now you have the chance to go through several of these cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your &lt;strong&gt;base building&lt;/strong&gt; the primary activity is riding a lot, and maybe some cross training.  You can use an indoor trainer or stationary bike, but with the right clothing and equipment you can continue to ride outdoors.  If 30 miles is your longest ride, you may want to set a goal of riding a metric century (62 miles) in 10-12 weeks.  Any beginners plan for riding a century will work as a guide for your base building period, but you would alternate hard and easy days and do progressively longer rides on the weekends.  Normally base building periods last 8-12 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your &lt;strong&gt;Strength/Speed/Skill Building&lt;/strong&gt; you add event or goal specific activities - but the two primary activities are &lt;strong&gt;intervals&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;hill climbing&lt;/strong&gt;.  Doing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=%2bintervals&amp;amp;submit=search&quot;&gt;search here on 'intervals'&lt;/a&gt; will give you some direction, but basically within a given ride of say 30 miles, you would intersperse periods of high intensity riding with brief recoveries. Doing so trains you to ride efficiently at a higher level of effort.  Climbing hills works the same way and builds muscle strength.  Typically you follow a base period with 2-3 build periods each lasting 3-4 weeks with a rest week in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing a couple of &lt;strong&gt;build&lt;/strong&gt; periods you go into another &lt;strong&gt;base/recovery&lt;/strong&gt; period.  So, if your goal is to start riding races in October of next year, you can build a calendar backwards from your first race and build in several build/recovery cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For good books to get training ideas look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3556/book-recommendation-training&quot;&gt;Book Recommendation: Training&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For building a base or strength while commuting look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6157/how-to-make-the-most-out-of-daily-commute&quot;&gt;How to make the most out of daily commute?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T21:07:39.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3556" CreationDate="2011-10-13T21:08:19.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?rlz=1C1SKPL_enUS424US424&amp;amp;q=base%20building%20for%20cyclists&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=5277244778263260522&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=dlGXTsnbNqzRiAKSk4yxAg&amp;amp;ved=0CFwQ8gIwAw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Base Building for Cyclists&lt;/a&gt; as a good guide to building your aerobic fitness, building a solid base for seasonal training, and working up to high volume rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aH1nB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=heart%20rate%20book%20for&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=14339288673626865424&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=XVKXTv7wEsnjiAKxl-inDQ&amp;amp;ved=0CHoQ8wIwAg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Heart Rate Monitor Book for Cyclists&lt;/a&gt; for cycling specific workouts to improve speed and aerobic threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LCLSQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T21:08:19.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6492" CreationDate="2011-10-14T02:43:33.897" Score="4" ViewCount="1428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping around for a vintage bike (maybe an old Raleigh or Schwinn), but I'm looking for two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fenders and a Chain Guard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop Handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to think that drop handlebars are newer than most of the vintage bikes I'm looking at.  Is it realistic to expect a 50s-70s bike with drop handlebars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T12:03:42.830" Title="Drop Handlebars on an Old Bike" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6488" CreationDate="2011-10-14T03:04:37.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bought my old Raleigh in 1972 the shop had a number of bikes with drop handlebars.  And I'm reasonably sure they went back to the 50s, at least (and maybe much further), though probably the popularity was less until the 70s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you're unlikely to find the combo of fenders, chain guard, and drops on a bike of any vintage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T03:04:37.263" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2011-10-14T06:34:36.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to lantius' answer, many DH bikes use tapered head tubes knowning full well that no triple-clamp forks use tapered steerers.  They do this because you can then run much larger bearings on the lower race, thereby massively increasing their crush load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T06:34:36.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5346" CreationDate="2011-10-14T06:34:42.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as the increase in drag after a few weeks, I reckon the Chain-L oil is to blame for that. As far as oils go, it's not all that heavy, and over a few weeks can migrate out from where it needs to be inside the freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my favorite things to do with an old free wheel is to soak it in degreaser/solvent/parts washer overnight. Then, use rags and compressed air (or opening it up, if you like tiny bearings in abundance) and clean out the degreaser. Once the freewheel is bone dry, slowly dribble in some Phil's Tenacious Oil while spinning it. Ill often set the freewheel onto a freewheel tool in a vice and spin it with one hand while holding the Phil's bottle in the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dry freewheel will ratchet very loudly, but you'll hear it quiet down as the very thick oil begins to penetrate. Once you start to see some oil come out the other side you know you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2590" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T06:34:42.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6488" CreationDate="2011-10-14T10:23:52.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have mudguards and a chainguard, mudguards and drop bars, but not drop bars and a chainguard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use an automotive analogy, you are looking for the station-wagon version of a two-seater sports car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, why not put drops on an old Raleigh 3-speed? The 3-speed Sturmey Archer lever will be simple enough to mount, you will just need new bars, levers, all-important bar-end plugs and tape. Obviously the bars will need to be the older 25.4mm clamp size, but you should be able to acquire these bits and bobs second hand for not much money. The alternative option of getting a chainguard to put on a retro Raleigh is a bit harder - those were a bit model specific whereas handlebars are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I have a 12 speed Raleigh Gran Sport with the drop bars and a Raleigh Sports 3 Speed with the 'Northroad' bars. I would not swap the bars over on either because they are well thought out and go with the frame geometry. The 'Northroads' bars are a real treat and, if I did not already have a 3-speed with them, I would look for a bike with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T10:23:52.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-14T10:36:07.693" Score="2" ViewCount="6681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of getting a new seat on my exercise bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I ensure that the seat will fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there different types of fitting? How many types?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My one the bike seat involves 2 hexagonal bolts one on either side and it looks like it can slide if one is loosened, or turn if the other is loosened, and is still when both are tightened.  What type is that? And would any of that type fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2592" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-10-16T15:51:33.530" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T16:03:55.537" Title="Getting a cycling saddle that fits" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;stationary-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6400" CreationDate="2011-10-14T11:14:41.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I go to work by bike making 6.000 km/year. &#xA;Conditions are: countryside environment, German snowy/icy winter (approx. 1..3 months). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two years ago, my bicycle dealer pointed me to the &quot;Schwalbe Marathon Winter&quot; tire, which wears more than 200 carbide spikes on its surface (manufacturer's product page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://tinyurl.com/5tcbvs3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://tinyurl.com/5tcbvs3&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried it (if you buy only one, put it on the front wheel, as this is important for steering and all the little compensating steering movements to keep your balance - additionally, you can use your front brake to stop safely) and am now totally convinced: if you face snow and ice in winter, this is your choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about melting days: when streets are clear, it runs with little friction loss. My daily ride is approx. 32 minutes, and I found no significant increase in time with the spiked tire on clear streets (although there is a noticable rolling noise). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This year, I was very lazy and left the Marathon winter mounted on the front wheel all summer long, and after thousands of km, there is still little wear-out of the hard metal carbide spikes (however, three of &gt;200 have completely fallen out, which is still a good rate and acceptable for next winter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire is not cheap (40..50 EUR per piece in Germany for the 28&quot; / 622mm size), but if you cycle on snowy/icy winter on a regular basis, it's worth every penny! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T11:14:41.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6493" CreationDate="2011-10-14T14:21:34.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially you have one of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hheRl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an older type of saddle clamp that was popular when seat posts were made from steel rather than alloy. Any saddle bought from a bike shop will fit. The general idea is that the bolt goes behind instead of in front of the post, you tighten it up on both sides so that the top of the seat is level and the seat is centered on the rails. Swapping over a seat can be a 'bit of a fiddle' as there isn't necessarily a lot of room under the seat to assemble all the bits and keep them in place whilst you do up the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for saddle choice, you don't have to worry about weight, the elements or the seat getting damaged from being in accidents etc. Therefore you should be able to choose from the heavier/more comfortable seats to find something in budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T16:03:55.537" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T16:03:55.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6493" CreationDate="2011-10-14T15:07:58.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are basically two types of seats: Seats with rails and seats without rails.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seats with rails (two somewhat crooked metal bars running front-to-back under the seat) will fit the clamp in Mathew's photo or any fancier seat clamp.  (For fancier ones generally the clamp is permanently attached to the top of the seat post (the part that slides up and down)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seats without rails generally have a built-in clamp, or in some cases may be more or less permanently attached to the seat post.  These are &quot;cost-reduced&quot; seats, designed for cheap bikes and exercise equipment.  They are not generally interchangeable without replacing the entire assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can replace the &quot;without rails&quot; seat with one that has rails if you get the necessary clamp or clamp-with-seatpost.  The clamp will accept any brand/style of seat with rails, but there are several different diameters of seat posts, and you need to match the post diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your current seat doesn't have rails, your best bet is to take the entire seat assembly -- seat, clamp, and post -- to a bike shop, so that the seat post diameter can be matched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T15:07:58.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-14T19:13:47.900" Score="32" ViewCount="245537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to race cyclocross, and I also want to ride some longer rides out on the road. Can I buy a cyclocross bike and use it for both cyclocross and some serious road rides (I'm talking century type rides)? Or will I be uncomfortable riding long rides on a cyclocross bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2595" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-02-12T20:48:57.953" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T12:05:53.873" Title="Can I use a cyclocross bike for regular road-biking purposes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2011-10-14T19:30:26.007" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you have to remember is that there isn't a huge difference between a cyclocross bikes and standard road bikes.  Generally speaking, cyclocross bikes generally have slightly different geometry, usually burlier parts, and will always have knobby tires.  It's a road bike you ride offroad.  Switch to road tires and you've got a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These differences amount to cyclocross bikes being heavier than road bikes.  Since you're going on century rides, weight will be a big factor.  Carbon fiber is always great in this department, but an aluminum frame and fork is looking more realistic on your budget.  Don't buy a bike like the Surly Crosscheck, for example, as that steel frame will drag you down on those long rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking in the 1k-2k range I would recommend that you buy a stock bike.  The shop I worked at used to stock &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.norco.com/bikes/asphalt/cyclocross/ccx/&quot;&gt;Norco&lt;/a&gt;, and they make some nice, reasonably-priced cross bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2596" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T19:30:26.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2011-10-14T19:32:57.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not trying to be ultra-competitive, you can do a C on any bike that rolls.  I've seen guys do 100 miles loaded on a Huffy.  And, as I understand it, a cyclocross bike is a &quot;more relaxed&quot; geometry than a standard road bike (closer to a touring bike), and thus possibly more apt to be comfortable on a long ride than a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gearing might be an issue, of course -- you might want a larger gear to maintain road speeds if you're trying to be competitive.  And you'd want to swap out knobby tires for something relatively smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight is probably less of an issue on the road than in cyclocross, so I wouldn't worry about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T19:32:57.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2011-10-14T21:32:25.107" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you're talking about clinchers? And that you've either replaced or patched the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put one side of the tire back on the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert the tube into the tire. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, snap the tire into the rim. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok? Now you're left with a section of tire/tube that won't cooperate? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's what you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sit with the wheel assembly between your legs, put your thumbs on the rim and your fingers on the tire, and &quot;pull&quot; until the tire locks onto the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point, after inflation, you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T21:32:25.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-14T22:36:17.240" Score="7" ViewCount="1622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to put my best friend on bike. Things went well for a several months. Then, unfortunately she was caught in an accident (the one caused by the so-called &quot;target fixation&quot;). Fortunately, she recovered from her injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sad part is that she has lost her confidence to ride. She was enthusiastic for a ride anytime before the accident, but now she is afraid of going for a bike ride. It's even more so on roads she is not used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some of the ways to comfort her? Any books/videos you'd recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2597" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T01:05:49.867" Title="Regaining confidence to ride after an accident" Tags="&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6501" CreationDate="2011-10-14T23:41:07.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps, trying a schedule might work in a risk-free area, for example, a tennis court or parking lot. For example, for Day 1, spend 2 minutes rolling around a bit on the bike.  Day 2, spend 4 minutes.  Day 3, spend 8 minutes.  Day 4, move to a light traffic area for 2 minutes. Day 5, light traffic for 5 minutes.  Something like that.  You get the picture.  (IMO, buying something isn't always the solution.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T23:41:07.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2011-10-15T00:55:45.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The steer will taper from 1-1/8 to 1.5 inches. However, you do have the option of using a straight 1-1/8&quot; steerer with a tapered headtube as there are some companies that make headsets that will adapt the lower half of the headset down. You will have a greater choice of forks since you can run straight or tapered, but your choice of headsets will be limited somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T00:55:45.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6501" CreationDate="2011-10-15T02:06:31.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in a similar situation just over a month ago following my own accident.  I'm not sure if it's relevant in your situation, but definitely start by throwing out any regard for riding for time/pace/speed.  Try &quot;breaking the spell&quot; by riding for totally different reasons than before -- if she was competitive before, try casual; if she was a work commuter, try riding to a dessert spot; basically ease back into riding by coming at it from a different angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2304" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T02:06:31.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6501" CreationDate="2011-10-15T02:16:39.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with target fixation is that the individual has no confidence that it won't happen again.  It's like trying to not think of elephants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talking to a shrink may be worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any riding she does initially should be in a setting that is &quot;target poor&quot;, and particularly &quot;poor&quot; of whatever sort of thing she fixated on in her crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T02:16:39.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2011-10-15T02:44:15.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in Charlotte, NC.  The city is considering a bike share program since we are hosting the Democratic National Convention next year.  I heard at a bike club meeting that vending machines would be next to the bikes with helmets available for purchase.  Helmets are not required here except for children.  The price of the vending machine helmets will be $10 I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2599" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T02:44:15.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2011-10-15T05:55:06.583" Score="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can absolutely ride road on a cx bike. Many of the components are actually road components, including the wheels, so slap a pair of 700x23's on the stock wheelset and off you go.&#xA;Things to consider:&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt; 1)Cross bikes are going to be a little heavier than a road bike in the same price range- probably a couple to a few pounds. Ultimately not that big of a deal if you're not riding road competitively. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;2)Some may argue, but it's ok to be wrong... cantilever brakes are inferior to road calipers, at least on the road. I wont get into why cx bikes use cantis as there are plenty of explanations across the interwebs, but you won't get the same control out of a pair of cantis (or v's/mini-v's) that you'll get from road brakes. There's a reason that they're different. &lt;br/&gt;The best substitute, and they're getting much easier to get your hands on now since discs recently became UCI legal for cx, is frame/fork combo built to accept disc brake calipers. Again, they're slightly heavier than canti's or v's, but the overall feel is worth it, both on and off the road (and especially in the mud!)&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;3)This is probably the biggest one in my opinion...&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Though they are similar, ultimately the feel between a road bike and a cx bike is noticeably different. Among more subtle differences, Cx bikes have longer wheelbases, higher bottom brackets, longer chainstays, and slacker headtube angles than road bikes do. These are all good things when riding &lt;em&gt;off&lt;/em&gt; the road and in the mud because they lend to the bike's stability. On the road however, these geometry differences translate into a slower steering, more sluggish feeling bike. Once again, there's a reason that they're different.&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;That said, my cx bike probably sees the same amount of mileage as my road bike does. I ride it on the road regularly even for longer rides and it is a great commuter. If you need one bike to do it all and you don't plan on hitting seriously gnarly mtb trails (they can handle light to moderate singletrack duty), a cx bike is the most versatile machine you can own.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To answer the next part of your question, you 99.99% of the time you are going to come out on top financially by purchasing a complete bike as opposed to piecing it together by buying parts separately. Building a bike from scratch is fun and you get exactly the build out that you want, but in my experience with many bikes it has never once been cheaper&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Finally, to find the right bike, go to several of the reputable bike shops around you and try out what they have. Due to geometry differences you may like one bike better than the next or one may fit you better than the rest. Test rides are key. There are a ton of great bike brands out there and a lot of your choice may come down to personal preference. Find a shop with a good fitter. Bike fit is important for all styles of bikes, but it's crucial if you're going to be spending a bunch of time on the road. Some shops will throw a professional fitting in with the purchase of a new bike. Be sure to ask. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2011-10-15T06:02:02.707" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T06:02:02.707" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6488" CreationDate="2011-10-15T12:03:42.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oldbike.wordpress.com/1909-la-francaise-diamant-racing-bicycle-french/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Drop handlebars have been around since the dawn of cycling.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, a bike witha chaincase is likely to be a commuter and thus not likely to also have drop bars. There is nothing that prevents you from retro-fitting chaincase or dropbars, however.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T12:03:42.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2011-10-15T12:27:10.220" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the brake response gets mushy, also check the brake pads. Personal experience: I saw no need in bleeding the brakes before changing the brake fluid (on a DOT system). Maybe your system is not sufficiently sealed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The need to exchange the fluid depends on the type that is used in your brakes. And this should be self-evident: Do not, under any circumstances, change the &lt;i&gt;type&lt;/i&gt; of fluid used in your brake! It will most certainly degrade the gaskets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;DOT&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your brakes use DOT (classified by the US &lt;b&gt;D&lt;/b&gt;epartment &lt;b&gt;o&lt;/b&gt;f &lt;b&gt;T&lt;/b&gt;ransportation) brake fluid, i.e. &quot;DOT 5.1&quot;, the fluid should be exchanged every 1-2 years [1]. With time, the fluid absorbs water, affecting its compressibility. This is by design, since non-absorbed water would affect the compressibility even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Mineral Oil&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mineral oil, however, does not need to be changed so regularly. Unless you open the system, the oil stays good for up to 6-7 years [2].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] Bosch Automotive Handbook, 7th Edition, ISBN 978-0-7680-1953-7&lt;br&gt;&#xA;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magura.com/de/produkte/scheibenbremsen-2012/prod/mt2/info/faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.magura.com/de/produkte/scheibenbremsen-2012/prod/mt2/info/faq.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2600" LastEditorUserId="2600" LastEditDate="2011-10-15T13:54:49.333" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T13:54:49.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6493" CreationDate="2011-10-15T12:51:31.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To ensure the new saddle will fit, you should always test it before buying. Good shops will allow you test-rides or offer exchange if it's uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a personal advice: Also include the (often underrated) leather saddles in your search. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/controls/saddle/brooks/b-17/prd_352724_140crx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Many riders&lt;/a&gt; attest them superior comfort. A bit firm in the beginning, but they will adjust to your personal butt-shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2600" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T12:51:31.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6513" CreationDate="2011-10-15T16:40:39.913" Score="5" ViewCount="3121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to go look at a 1972 Raleigh.  The seller says that the bike slips out of third gear into neutral.  Is this a simple fix (e.g. a cable adjustment), or should I stay away from such a purchase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when I go to inspect the bike, what should I look for to determine the difficulty of this repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastEditorUserId="2589" LastEditDate="2011-10-15T17:07:45.393" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T21:15:07.460" Title="Sturmey Archer 3-Speed Hub Slipping?" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6511" CreationDate="2011-10-15T18:21:39.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be a simple cable adjustment, or the hub may be mucked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T18:21:39.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6511" CreationDate="2011-10-15T21:15:07.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Daniel summed up the first half of your question pretty well. For the second half, start by visiting &lt;a href=&quot;http://oldbikeblog.blogspot.com/2008/07/how-to-adjust-sturmey-archer-three.html&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; to learn how to adjust the hub. When you go to inspect the bike try what you've learned first. If the shift lever is obviously sticky it may just need new cable and housing. Other than that, it's hard to tell. Internally geared hubs typically aren't a component that you visually inspect. If it's potentially trashed, 1972 isn't really a vintage that would be worth rebuilding. If the hub is trashed and you're really in love with the bike, you could always replace the rear wheel with a new one. 3 speed internally geared hubbed wheels are typically pretty cheap. Or you could wait for another bike like it to come around. Most bikes from around that time period are a dime a dozen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T21:15:07.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6518" CreationDate="2011-10-16T23:32:18.183" Score="3" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to purchase a bicycle trailer, to take bottles to the depot and pickup stuff from the hardware store from time to time. What is a good one to get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2514" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T18:04:46.287" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T09:58:09.453" Title="A good bicycle trailer I can order" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-09-22T21:48:22.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6514" CreationDate="2011-10-17T02:26:34.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.burley.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Burley&lt;/a&gt; is pretty much the first and still a very respected brand.  They make a variety of trailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other major alternative is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobgear.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BOB&lt;/a&gt;.  They make a single-wheel bike trailer that is good for narrow trails and paths or twisty streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are three main attachment schemes.  Most of the Burleys attach to the left rear axle and have a trailer &quot;tongue&quot; that reaches around the left side of the bike.  This prevents making hard right turns.  The Burley Travoy attaches with a clamp on the seat post and has no serious turning limitations.  The BOB trailers attach to both sides of the rear axle, but the trailer &quot;tongue&quot; is jointed so that turning radius is not seriously affected in either direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T17:35:23.740" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T17:35:23.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-17T12:00:23.743" Score="3" ViewCount="2030" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one road bike that I use mostly for commuting, sometimes for fast alone rides and infrequently for group rides.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that since most of my riding is alone I should put my tri bars back on my bike.  I had an extra set of drops in my closet so I chopped them off to make some bull horns.  I now have a sweet set of tri bars.  I just need to pick up a set of bar end brakes and I will be all set.  There is only one kicker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since every once and a while I want to do a group ride I would like to be able to swap out my tri bar setup for a drop bar setup.  Preferably I would like to keep the brake lines on my bike and just unattach the lines from the break leavers.  I had an extra stem lying around so I can just pull out the step from the head set and volla!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went to my LBS to pick up some bar end brakes but this is what they told me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With all bar end brakes you have to run the brake line under the tape so you could not switch out the bars without retaping your bars each time.  Anyone know of any bar end brakes that the lines run NOT through the bar tape?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Switching between bars frequently (once or twice a month) will cause major wear on your bike and you should pick one thing and stick with it.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any truth to either of these statements?  I am somewhat skeptical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T03:27:36.667" Title="Bar end brakes and handlebar swapping" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2011-10-17T12:00:55.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical hydraulic disc brakes use an 'open' design to allow for automatic pad adjustment.&#xA;They have a small reservoir at near the brake lever for 'refilling' the extra brake fluid that is needed when the brake pad needs to be pushed a little closer to the disk in order to compensate the brake pad wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of design leads to less hassle in respect to pad adjustment, but has one main disatvantage: as more and more fluid gets pumped from the reservoir towards the brake cylinders, the oil gets replaced by air. Now if the bikes position changes from the regular upright position to e.g. upside down, air bubbles can slip to the brake hose and that causes the spongy feeling in the brake levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you don't necessarily have to open up the system to get air in, that's quasi by design.&#xA;With a little luck you can pump the air back to the reservoir, but normally you need to bleed the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T12:00:55.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6514" CreationDate="2011-10-17T12:06:34.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/ted_trailer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Trailer Ted&lt;/a&gt;, although I think it is a bit weird in its bike-attachment part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BOB trailer (as mention in a previous answer) could be a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.extrawheel.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Extrawheel&lt;/a&gt; is always worth taking a look (their site is a bit ugly, but the product is great!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T12:06:34.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2011-10-17T12:30:08.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One additional (rather cosmetic) advantage is that the rims stay free from grit.&#xA;So you keep clean hands when changing tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly, thats not a reason I would invest in a disk break for; and you get the same results with ceramic-coated rims...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T12:30:08.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6514" CreationDate="2011-10-17T15:57:33.013" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what you are asking about I would recommend buying a used kid trailer (for about $50 - $150), cutting off the fabric and adding some kind of floor/bin.  Interestingly enough most child trailers are rated for up to 100 pounds were as the BOB trailer is only weighted for 75 (if I remember correctly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only advantage of a BOB or Extra wheel trailer is that they single wheel trailers.  This means they can handle faster cornering and are narrower for roads.  They also cost basically the price of a new bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3390/converting-kid-trailer-to-cargo-trailer&quot;&gt;Converting kid trailer to cargo trailer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T15:57:33.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2011-10-17T17:25:43.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a sort of &quot;quick disconnect&quot; for shift/brake cables, used on some folding bikes.  You could use those (if you can find them) so that you could swap without having to undo the cables on the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T17:25:43.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2011-10-17T18:50:23.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you've got modern brakes, the complex cable run you'd have to set up for this likely makes it not worth it to try for cable splitters.  The splitters (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.davincitandems.com/comp.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;daVinci Easy-Split&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;A href=&quot;http://www.bgcycles.com/accessories.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bruce Gordon QS2&lt;/a&gt;, etc) require a bare cable run, so you'd need a pair of cable stops between the front brake and the front brake lever, not found in most modern setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you didn't have the housing running underneath the bar tape, you'd still need to loosen the cable to remove it from the brake, and re-tightening your brakes each time to enable a bar swap would get old quickly. It's not the case that swapping bars and stems frequently would put undue wear on those components, but it certainly increases the chances that you'll over- or under-tension parts at critical moments and cause a failure.  Particularly if you're swapping stems you would need to be mindful of headset preload.  If you end up unbolting and rebolting cables frequently you would increase the wear on them, as the clamping force deforms them and will cause them to fray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike has cantilever or centerpull brakes with split cable stops you could set up two complete cable runs that wouldn't require you to disconnect the brake cables, but that's unlikely on a modern-ish road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T18:50:23.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6523" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-10-17T20:45:03.903" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T20:45:03.903" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T20:45:03.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6524" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-10-17T20:45:03.903" Score="0" Body="Clipless pedals and shoes connect together with a special cleat, as opposed to using traditional flat pedals with toe clips." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T21:22:51.510" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T21:22:51.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3939" CreationDate="2011-10-17T21:02:49.283" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found these sizes from various shop pages which are not worthy for linking here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in answer to my own question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;8G = ?&#xA;10G = 5mm&#xA;11G = 4.4mm&#xA;12G = 3.96mm&#xA;13G = 3.7mm&#xA;14G = 3.45mm&#xA;15G = 3.3mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T21:02:49.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6452" CreationDate="2011-10-17T23:02:18.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I watched your video, and have to confess to a bit of a laugh when you picked up the crank, in what looked like a WTH moment :-)&#xA;Some cranks have only a very light cap holding the crank arm laterally, so if the pinch bolts loosen, the crank could fall off before you notice. Square taper and one-key release, or other cranks are a different story. Daniel is right though, that this period of looseness may damage the splines on the crank, requiring replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 25-30 ft lbs torque you quote is for the external Bottom Bracket bearings, seen in the picture. You probably don't have to touch them. The torque setting you're looking for will be on the crank arm that fell off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure the exact crank you have so it is hard to give specific instructions. Have a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/external-bearing-crank-systems-hollowtech-ii-megaexo-giga-x-pipe-x-type-campagnolo-ultra-torque&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Repair Help page for various cranksets&lt;/a&gt;. I'm guessing yours might be the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/external-bearing-crank-systems-hollowtech-ii-megaexo-giga-x-pipe-x-type-campagnolo-ultra-torque#sram&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GXP&lt;/a&gt; type. That page gives instructions similar to those in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/big-blue-book-of-bike-repair-second-edition-BBB-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Big Blue Book of Cycle Repair&lt;/em&gt;, 2nd Edition (Calvin Jones)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a torque wrench you can tighten the bolts by having a feel for these things (takes experience and taking into consideration the bolt size, thread size, materials etc). You can also be guided by the specified torque settings by gauging how much more torque should be applied to one bolt relative to another. For the next few rides after re-attaching, take the required tool and check the crank regularly, and tighten it if it comes loose. If it doesn't stay after doing this a few times, you're not tightening it enough, or the crank or BB may be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case scenario for over-tightening is you will strip the threads on both bolt and crank or BB, and / or shear off or burr the bolt. This will obviously damage those parts requiring replacement and it may be difficult to remove the parts. This could involve drilling out the bolts and various other hacks and so cost a fair bit of labour and parts in a shop - much more than just tightening the crank arm for you which should be very cheap. Thus if you're not confident, $10 or so at the LBS to re-attach your crank is probably money well spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you take it to a shop who uses a torque wrench (not all do), and they tighten to the specified setting, your crank can still come loose. I have a great LBS and even using the correct torque settings, I once had the crank arm come loose. The LBS replaced the arm for me under warranty as they followed the manufacturers settings (Shimano). So even if taking it to a shop, I'd still carry a tool and check occasionally, at least for several rides afterward until you feel confident it won't loosen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your crank arm and / or bottom bracket spline could be damaged. You can check for signs of any burring on the splines of the crank and BB, or your LBS can check. Get them to point out any damage to you if they think it needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-10-27T22:04:26.007" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T22:04:26.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2011-10-18T03:27:36.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get another set of calipers too. Then you just unbolt the front caliper, unbolt the rear caliper, unbolt the bar/stem (whichever). Then Bolt on the new bar/stem, front caliper, rear caliper. Since you probably have split cable stops already the cables and housing would all come off in one go. Depending on your stem it could be like 6 bolts total and no cable adjusting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this on my hard tail mountain bike when I switch from geared to single speed. It is more complex because more things change, but this is how I handle the bar and brake and gear cables (and when I run SS I use a wider bar for grunting up the hills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2615" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T03:27:36.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6530" CreationDate="2011-10-18T07:20:46.767" Score="1" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to buy Ragley's Blue Pig frame. It's not supposed to be used for very long rides, but, if I wish to take a few-days trip, a large backpack looks like a bad idea.&#xA;So, is there any rack that can be used with this frame without frame modification? Or, maybe, I should look for another solution of my problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would like to avoid console rack (a kind of racks that attaches to seatpost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastEditorUserId="1440" LastEditDate="2011-10-18T07:28:05.843" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T08:20:31.623" Title="Is there Rack (luggage carrier) for Ragley Blue Pig?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6529" CreationDate="2011-10-18T08:20:31.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ragleybikes.com/our-products/blue-pig-frame/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blue Pig MK1&lt;/a&gt; you could probably use the threaded fender mounts to attach any normal rear rack to it, since the rear disc caliper is mounted out of the way on the chainstay. The upper rack stays can be attached to the seatstays with p-clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ragleybikes.com/our-products/blue-pig-mk2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blue Pig Mk2&lt;/a&gt; doesn't have any such mounting points, so it's more complicated. You could possibly rig something up with p-clamps or hose clamps around both ends, but the possible weight you could haul will be greatly diminished.  You'd probably want to look at a rack that mounts to the axle, such as the ones made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldmanmountain.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Old Man Mountain&lt;/a&gt;.  Alternatively, you could get your local framebuilder to braze on some threaded barrels to fit the rack of your choice - it shouldn't be too expensive, but you'll either need to repaint it afterward or deal with some ugliness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much work you want to do in swapping the frame to &quot;adventure&quot; mode versus aggressive mountain biking mode you might look at a rigid fork, such as one from the Salsa Fargo or the Surly Ogre, and hauling front-end loads.  Riding long distances loaded and with a 140mm travel suspension fork is in itself not going to be particularly enjoyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T08:20:31.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6501" CreationDate="2011-10-18T09:16:40.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change of scenery works with most traumas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if the fall was on the street, invite to ride on a trail. and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T09:16:40.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6429" CreationDate="2011-10-18T09:24:29.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In L.A. you have visible coils in the asphalt to detect metal. it's used for red lights and traffic detection.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dooa3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dooa3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/image/FNMM85WF6S98E5S/The-Problem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructables.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;on the bike lanes, there's smaller ones that are able to detect bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when there's only the regular lanes, it will never detect a bike. what i do is if there's a car behind me, i stop on the pedestrian crossing area and hope the car will move forward and trigger the damn thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if there's no hope of that and i know it's one of the two take-forever-red-lights in my path, i just go directly to the pedestrian button on the side walk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... scratch all that! just found a solution when looking for a picture to put here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instructables.com/id/Trigger-GREEN-Traffic-Lights/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.instructables.com/id/Trigger-GREEN-Traffic-Lights/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;solution: magnets under the bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2021-01-01T20:14:31.967" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T20:14:31.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6429" CreationDate="2011-10-18T15:07:53.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecovelo.info/2010/06/17/trigger-happy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ecovelo.info/2010/06/17/trigger-happy/&lt;/a&gt; (written by Alan Barnard):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;You can often see evidence of loop detectors as lines cut into the road surface just behind the crosswalk. Wire sensors are embedded in these cut lines, and it’s possible to trigger a light by placing your bicycle wheels precisely on top of one of the wires to disrupt the magnetic field. Some sensors seem to be more sensitive than others; in those cases where the light isn’t initially triggered, I’ve had some success by leaning my bike over toward the inside of the detector loop. In cases where there are two side-by-side loops, lining up over the center where the two loops meet doubles your chances of triggering the light. Once I understood exactly how loop detectors work, my rate of success at triggering lights considerably improved; I’m currently getting somewhere approaching a 90% success rate on the detectors where I live.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of interesting comments there, also!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T15:07:53.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6501" CreationDate="2011-10-18T15:16:59.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Professional psychological (of course, if she agrees...);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding in non-traffic areas (a sinuous park or countryside would be great).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already perceived that most people learn a lot of bike-control while riding off-road-like situations, so that they become much more confident to ride in traffic, because the learned extra skills keep them comfortable to ride in everyday situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, just a thought, of course it depends on other factors. My wife, for one, is very scared of traffic, and sometimes trying too hard to give support ends up being an additional way to create stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps, and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T15:16:59.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2011-10-18T16:20:56.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like the conclusions from the reports posted for this question range from &quot;it's not a concern&quot; to &quot;it will kill you.&quot; Here's my two cents on short-term effects:&lt;br&gt;I live in a fairly polluted city (22nd in the US this year, I believe) and my experience is that anything above what is considered &quot;moderate&quot; ozone levels (0.060 to 0.075 ppm, source links below) has a noticeable impact on my health if I ride/commute. My throat and lungs become irritated and I wake up in the night in coughing fits. However, everyone's threshold is different and what bothers one person may affect the next more or less so. I use the site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.enviroflash.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Air Now&lt;/a&gt; which is a service of the EPA that provides email alerts on air quality on a daily basis for cities around the US. Very useful for those who are stateside, and I would imagine that there are similar services in most countries. Assuming it bothers you at all, find a comparable service in your country (see the last link in this answer), find out what your threshold is and keep riding to a minimum on days when the air is particularly bad. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The following link has a good explanation on what ozone is and why it's bad in the lower atmosphere:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airinfonow.org/html/ed_ozone.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Air Info Now&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And for those that are stateside, check these out:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.enviroflash.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Air now&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://airnow.gov/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Air Now&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For international air quality reports, check the link below:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://airnow.gov/index.cfm?action=topics.world&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Local Air Quality Conditions (Air Now)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="26813" LastEditDate="2016-10-05T19:38:17.247" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T19:38:17.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1751" CreationDate="2011-10-18T17:49:36.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden mine in the rain (and after being parked in the rain), and everything has worked out.  I treat with proofide regularly, and the water beads up and slides off, even after 8 hours in light rain.  I recently bought a Team Pro, and they seem to come with rain covers now.  So if you get a new Brooks and have fenders, your saddle won't even be exposed to water while riding in the rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still suggest proofide after each ride for a week after getting a new saddle, and then at least monthly.  The stuff is cheap: just use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2619" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T17:49:36.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6540" CreationDate="2011-10-18T18:28:43.333" Score="1" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an innertube for a Chariot stroller that apparently came from Europe, and the local bike shop people couldn't find one in their catalogs that was both the right size and having the thing I'm trying to describe.  I want to search for it myself but don't know what it's called.  It's a longer than normal valve, and has a washer-like thing (metal, but thicker than a washer, and threaded) that you spin down the valve until it locks the valve in place to the rim.  (We need one because we're going through innertubes like crazy--whenever you pump up a Chariot with the compact style pump we have, it wears the crap out of the valve.)  They could find it in the skinny Presta valve diameter but not in the standard valve diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's it called?  (And if you happen to know, where in Canada can I order one?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Kev&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1037" LastEditorUserId="1037" LastEditDate="2011-10-18T18:44:01.427" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T18:44:01.427" Title="What's the longer-valve, metal-ring inner tube style called?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6538" CreationDate="2011-10-18T18:42:40.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can see some images of alternative valves at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe&lt;/a&gt; page. &#xA;Your local bike shop is certainly familiar with Schraeder (aka &quot;Auto&quot;) and Presta (aka Sclaverand) valves.  It's difficult to tell from your description, but it's therefore likely either a Regina or a Dunlop valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T18:42:40.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2011-10-18T22:16:25.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you can do depends on skill, training, determination, and innate ability.  If you have sufficient quantities of each then you can do serious, if not competitive, cyclocross or any other activity.  And an excess in one area can help make up (to a limited degree) for a deficiency in another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is utter BS to say that &quot;You can do anything you set your mind to do&quot;, a goodly amount of determination can make up for shortcomings in other areas (though don't neglect training -- there's a difference between &quot;determination&quot; and &quot;too lazy to actually work towards a goal&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T22:16:25.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6514" CreationDate="2011-10-19T03:53:38.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you're in Canada, you might want to consider a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wicycle.com/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wike trailer&lt;/a&gt; (made in Guelph).  Either the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wicycle.com/cargo_large_bicycle_trailer.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;flatbed&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wicycle.com/cargo_shopper_bicycle_trailer.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shopping model&lt;/a&gt; would fit your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shopping trailer is very similar to their kid trailer, which we have and like a lot.  The wheels come off and it folds flat very easily, you can get a front wheel and use it like a shopping cart, and it holds a lot of weight.  (They say 100 pounds, we've had more than that in ours.)  I'm usually the one pulling the trailer with our kid, and haven't ever had a problem with making hard right turns with the left-side trailer tongue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T03:53:38.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-19T08:51:27.713" Score="6" ViewCount="6922" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts/suggestions on which direction bikes should sit on the roof &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've Thule bike carriers which can be left or right opening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So do I place both bikes facing forwards, or do I have the bikes one front facing, one rear facing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is simply try it and see, so be it, just wondered if anyone had experience of whether one option is easier for mounting the bikes, or provides less wind noise etc.etc.etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2626" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T09:15:47.973" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T02:10:50.640" Title="Bike Direction on Roof" Tags="&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6554" CreationDate="2011-10-19T09:02:28.300" Score="4" ViewCount="6765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started cycling more to get fitter and lose a little bit of weight. I started taking a longer route to work and upped my daily ride from 6 miles to 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 2 months of this and consuming less biscuits I've lost almost a stone and am now really happy with my weight. My main aims now are just to be healthier, to improve my indurance a little bit and mainly just to have fun. I really enjoy my longer ride and would like to keep doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I would find a new ideal weight for my new higher level of activity, but this hasn't happened yet. I am losing weight slower so should I wait for this to happen or should I eat a little bit more? And, if I do need to eat a bit more what sort of foods would be good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: As some people have asked for it my BMI has gone from 23.7 to 21.9. So I've always been in the normal weight BMI category (18.5 – 24.9), but I was getting towards the top end of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastEditorUserId="2568" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T12:26:37.607" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T01:27:15.463" Title="How do I maintain my weight while cycling more?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6543" CreationDate="2011-10-19T09:30:19.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With two carriers that are well-spaced I've always put them both forward, with three I put the middle one facing backwards to reduce the amount of interference between adjacent handlebars and porteur racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most bike-and-rack combinations it shouldn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T09:30:19.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6543" CreationDate="2011-10-19T10:01:42.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the mounts the kind where both wheels stay on the bike, or the style where the front wheel is removed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's the kind where the front wheel is removed, then if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You mount the bike backwards and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You forget to strap down the back wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then the bike might get flipped over by the wind and either fall off or damage your car. If you mount it facing fowards then the wind will be keeping the bike in the right position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd recommend mounting it facing fowards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T10:01:42.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6544" CreationDate="2011-10-19T10:09:41.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will find that your body will probably stabilize at a healthy weight, the weight you are losing is fat, as you cycle more you will likely build up muscle weight as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless there is something really wrong with your diet or you want to remain chubby then you don't have much to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to build more muscle weight you should probably try some Anaerobic exercise (Lifting weights etc), you can supplement this with eating protein either as meat or taking protein supplements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course everyone's body/metabolism is difficult, if you think that you are losing too much weight too quickly then you should probably consult a doctor, for a normal healthy person though cycling more shouldn't put you in any danger of losing an unhealthy amount of weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T10:09:41.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15307" CreationDate="2011-10-19T11:31:15.263" Score="6" ViewCount="8916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently use &lt;strong&gt;700x25 slicks&lt;/strong&gt; on my commuting bike, to get the easiest ride possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also own:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700x28 with some tread  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700x35 metal studded snow tires &lt;em&gt;(Purchased last year for UK snow)&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I'd prefer to keep the slicks on all year round, as they give the easiest ride. However when conditions require it, I'll change tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question revolves around &lt;strong&gt;what weather conditions slicks are acceptable in:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavy rain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snow?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ice?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T06:35:23.773" Title="What weather conditions are slicks suitable for?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;weather&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6543" CreationDate="2011-10-19T11:55:58.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mainly it doesn't matter.  Usually two bikes are front-first (because it &quot;just seems right&quot;), but once you go beyond two bikes the directions alternate.  True, if you don't have the bike properly fastened then, on a fork-mount carrier, it can blow loose a hair easier in the reverse orientation, but it can also come loose going around a curve or going over a bump, so you need to be sure it's well-fastened in all cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you may find, based on whether you're right-handed or left handed (or maybe you have a bad shoulder or such), that it's easier to lift the bike onto the roof one way vs the other.  In that case it makes sense to have the bikes front-facing on one side and rear-facing on the other.  OTOH, the shape of the vehicle, position of the doors, etc, may factor into your orientation decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T11:55:58.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6544" CreationDate="2011-10-19T12:03:58.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone's different.  You don't give a hint as to what your body weight or BMI is, so we don't know if you're overweight or anorexic or &quot;just right&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that, in some people, intense exercise can cause you to &quot;lose interest&quot; in eating for a period of time, but usually after about 2 months this effect abates and your appetite returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you feel that you have &quot;issues&quot; with your weight and appetite (eg, a tendency towards anorexia nervosa) you should just let your body decide what it wants to weigh.  And simply eat a balanced, varied diet, with moderate amounts of fat and high-quality protein.  Stay away from most &quot;supplements&quot;, and don't be misled into believing that you need a &quot;high protein diet&quot; or something else super-special.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T12:03:58.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6548" CreationDate="2011-10-19T12:05:53.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not snow, not ice.  As to wet, it depends on whether the pavement is simply wet, or oily, or muddy, or what-have-you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T12:05:53.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6464" CreationDate="2011-10-19T12:10:22.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practice braking! With practice you'll get to know when you're about to start skidding and you'll be able to reduce the pressure on the brake levers. Ultimate stopping technique goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get in a low position (if you can - the bike might limit how low you can get).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you increase pressure on the brakes shift you backwards trying to keep you weight in your feet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop your heels to drive your weight into the pedals. Brake as hard as you can without skidding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you come of the brakes gradually move your weight forwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of components you're tyres are the most important factor in how quickly you stop - wide spaced knobs are good for stopping and softer compounds are better as well. Lowering pressure will improve stopping distance as well. The problem is that tyres that stop well won't roll as quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="127" LastEditDate="2011-10-20T11:30:51.257" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T11:30:51.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6544" CreationDate="2011-10-19T13:09:58.650" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I worked as a physician (not anymore nowadays, got into medical systems design), and I can guarantee you that either people and health professinals overemphasize the importance of the weight as if it was a single &quot;magic number&quot; regarding health, and it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Body fat percentage, cardiovascular endurance, muscle and joint flexibility, dietary habits and psychological stress level are much more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides that, two things you must consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When one increases pedalling distances and speeds, fat is lost and muscle is gained. Muscle is much more dense, so even if you look lean, you do not lose so much weight, but you exchange a very risk-related tissue (fat) by a much more healty one (muscle). And even while at rest, muscle burns calories much more than the same amount of fat, so the very existence of more muscle implies a higher methabolic rate;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you commute by bike, you get REALLY HUNGRY. You must eat, because food is your gasoline. Actually, wanting to lose weight by eating less then necessary is dangerous for bike commuters, because you might get weak during a ride, which greatly increases discomfort and accident risk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is to eat just enough, take a lot of salad and vegetables when possible (helps to provide anti-oxydants for the body, much useful for us who breathe pollution, etc.), and try NEVER to ride &quot;out of fuel&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: (from wikipedia)&#xA;Some common body fat percentages (not a recommendation!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;            Women   Men&#xA;Minimal     10–13%  2–5%&#xA;Athletes    14–20%  6–13%&#xA;Fitness     21–24%  14–18%&#xA;Average     25–31%  18–24%&#xA;Obese       32%+    25%+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The bioelectrical impedance analysis (BIA) method is a more affordable but less accurate way to estimate body fat percentage. The general principle behind BIA: two conductors are attached to a person's body and a small electric current is sent through the body. The resistance between the conductors will provide a measure of body fat, since the resistance to electricity varies between adipose, muscular and skeletal tissue.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a native english speaker, so some words might not be correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T13:49:10.503" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T13:49:10.503" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6668" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:13:54.700" Score="1" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Philips frame off Craigslist for $60, and decided I wanted to build a fixie out of it.  I have the frame and a quill stem so far.  The bottom bracket has to be replaced because I don't have the cranks for it, and it's pretty old and probably junk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I expect the cost to be? Where can I cut corners for cost now, then upgrade later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I insane for wanting to take on this task?  Should I cut losses and buy a good frame that's custom fitted for me if I want to build up a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="97" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T17:07:34.033" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T12:56:36.687" Title="Building up a frame" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6560" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:16:31.527" Score="5" ViewCount="2689" Body="&lt;p&gt;UK only, just wanted to check if it's actually legal. The area I'm living on is deadly on the roads, so want to know about riding on pavements (sidewalk/pedestrian walkways) instead where there is no bike lane (half of the roads have bike lanes around here and suddenly they disappear...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2639" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-04-21T20:35:22.150" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T20:35:22.150" Title="Is it legal for me to ride a bicycle on the pavement (sidewalk)?" Tags="&lt;uk&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6573" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:18:14.117" Score="9" ViewCount="38770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just moved from where there wasn't much of a biking system infrastructure.  There were lots of trails though, so I bought an OK mountain bike ($350).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've moved to downtown Seattle and everyone bikes.  I'd love to get into it but not sure if a mountain bike is efficient for road-use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I look into a conversion kit?  Should I just get a road bike and have one off-road and one on-road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2635" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T21:11:54.610" Title="Riding a Mountain Bike in the city" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6558" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:18:49.923" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highwaycode/DG_069837&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Highway Code&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 64&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You MUST NOT cycle on a pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the short answer is a definite no, although discretion is given for young children riding on the pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikehub.co.uk/featured-articles/cycling-and-the-law/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; has details the rules for cycling on things like footways, footpaths and bridlepaths.  (In short: no, no and yes - but the article is probably worth a read.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information about rules in other countries can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6255/can-cyclists-legally-ride-on-the-sidewalk&quot;&gt;in this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2642" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T16:24:51.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:22:29.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in NYC, and I ride every day from Astoria to Flat Iron. While I can't cite scientific research about how bad it can be for you, I'll say this: if I get caught in truck or bus traffic, the smoke almost always stops my spin immediately. I'm breathing heavier than normal, the smoke chokes me, and I lose all the momentum I've built up. There's just no breathing through that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars aren't as much of a problem since I'm above the exhaust and cutting through it faster than it's rising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a pretty big problem, and a lot of other riders have made shared Google Maps to avoid certain streets at certain times to avoid the exhaust fumes from the big guys. Just search for whatever city you're looking at and &quot;Bike Routes&quot; in Google Maps-- you'll usually find an annotated route with &quot;rush hour rides&quot; to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T16:22:29.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6548" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:22:34.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slick tires are better in the wet than treaded tires. The best explanation I've seen is here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&lt;/a&gt; Car tires have tread to stop them aquaplaning in the wet, bike don't get fast enough for their contact foot print for that to matter. As I sometime ride my cross bike with knobby tires on wet road I can assure you they're much worse than slicks. As for snow and ice, I'm not much help as I live in Northern California, but friends of mond were sending around a great idea last year. You can make you tires into something like ladder chains on a car using zip ties. There's a great example here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gizmodo.com/5719594/zip-tie-snow-tires-the-cheapest-way-to-blizzard+proof-your-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gizmodo.com/5719594/zip-tie-snow-tires-the-cheapest-way-to-blizzard+proof-your-bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2641" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T16:22:34.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6578" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:23:51.140" Score="3" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has a pedal-forward frame that looks really comfortable to ride.  I have a older road/mountain hybrid that's a little hard on me and would like to start riding again to get a little exercise (and hopefully lose some weight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much less intense a workout can I expect if I move to a pedal-froward frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2645" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T17:38:50.323" Title="How much of a difference in workout intensity does riding a pedal-forward bike make?" Tags="&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6574" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:24:28.053" Score="5" ViewCount="1944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know in parts of the US it is &lt;strong&gt;illegal&lt;/strong&gt; for bicyclists to ride their bikes on the sidwalk.  I've been seeing it a lot in Seattle, WA, US and not sure if it's allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2635" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T05:47:35.483" Title="Legal to ride bikes on sidewalks in Seattle?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6583" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:30:09.003" Score="10" ViewCount="1393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a bike and I'm looking at getting some lights for riding at night. I live pretty well lit city so I would just want them to make me more visible to drivers. &lt;strong&gt;What kind of things should I look for when purchasing lights for my bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2648" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T17:54:13.927" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T07:09:00.390" Title="Choosing lights for my bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6559" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:34:52.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are commuting daily for a long distance, I'll switch to a road bike. If not and you like your current bike, keep it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a road bike and a mountain bike, depending where I'm heading. But I do not live in a large city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2652" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T16:34:52.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6566" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:41:59.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would seem that cycling on the sidwalk in Seattle is legal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Section 11.44.120 RIDING ON A SIDEWALK OR PUBLIC PATH.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Every person&#xA;  operating a bicycle upon any sidewalk or public path shall operate the&#xA;  same in a careful and prudent manner and a rate of speed no greater&#xA;  than is reasonable and proper under the conditions existing at the&#xA;  point of operation, taking into account the amount and character of&#xA;  pedestrian traffic, grade and width of sidewalk or public path, and&#xA;  condition of surface, and shall obey all traffic control devices. &#xA;  Every person operating a bicycle upon a sidewalk or public path shall&#xA;  yield the right-of-way to any pedestrian thereon, and shall give an&#xA;  audible signal before overtaking and passing any pedestrian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.seattle.gov/transportation/bikecode.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Regulations for Bicycling and Driving with Bicyclists&lt;/a&gt;, Seattle Department of Transportation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T16:41:59.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6575" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:44:41.497" Score="3" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Free Spirit road bike. It's in good shape and runs fine, but I started noticing that when I'm going uphill or pedaling in a high gear there is a squeaky sound coming from what seems to be the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on fixing it or could it be another issue altogether?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2657" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T16:03:37.483" Title="Older road bike: squeaky crank?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6559" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:44:52.667" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would at least put road tires on your mountain bike - they really improve your efficiency on pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your commute is urban w/ lots of stops &amp;amp; traffic navigation, the mountain bike handlebar setup can be more maneuverable for tight situations than a road/touring bike. I do miss the maneuverability of my mountain bike since switching to a road bike. A commuter or hybrid bike may be a very good option, with the handlebar &amp;amp; fork designed for more urban situation vs. being tuned for long-haul riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1616" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T16:44:52.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6566" CreationDate="2011-10-19T16:46:31.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://clerk.seattle.gov/~public/code1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seattle.gov&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Section &lt;a href=&quot;http://clerk.seattle.gov/~scripts/nph-brs.exe?d=CODE&amp;amp;s1=11.44.120.snum.&amp;amp;Sect5=CODE1&amp;amp;Sect6=HITOFF&amp;amp;l=20&amp;amp;p=1&amp;amp;u=/~public/code1.htm&amp;amp;r=1&amp;amp;f=G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;11.44.120&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;Riding on sidewalk or public path&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every person operating a bicycle upon any sidewalk or public path shall operate the same in a careful and prudent manner and a rate of speed no greater than is reasonable and proper under the conditions existing at the point of operation, taking into account the amount and character of pedestrian traffic, grade and width of sidewalk or public path, and condition of surface, and shall obey all traffic control devices.  Every person operating a bicycle upon a sidewalk or public path shall yield the right-of-way to any pedestrian thereon, and shall give an audible signal before overtaking and passing any pedestrian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd say it's legal. Have fun! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2654" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-04-12T13:54:27.077" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T13:54:27.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6572" CreationDate="2011-10-19T17:00:50.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed my crank making a noise when I would crank hard, and it ended up being the pedal. It was the cheap plastic pedals that came with the bike (before I switched to clipless), and the pedal itself was starting to break. It would bend when I was cranking hard, and it finally broke on me (thankfully, just down the street from my house).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would check the pedal, and check the bolts for the whole area to make sure everything's tightened down properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="28" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T17:00:50.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-19T17:09:18.260" Score="-2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking to start collecting bicycles of the last 20 or so years that are special in a way or the other. What would be the one bicycle that should be in such a collection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2658" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T17:33:35.740" Title="What's the most notable production model bicycle ever?" Tags="&lt;history&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-10-19T17:39:39.650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6576" CreationDate="2011-10-19T17:33:35.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about the Schwinn from &lt;em&gt;Peewee's Big Adventure&lt;/em&gt;? &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/21684795@N05/3227223652/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a pic of it from flickr&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ES3T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T17:33:35.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6565" CreationDate="2011-10-19T17:38:50.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it your wife has an Electra 'Townie' style bike with the easy reach to the ground, the high bars and the pedals a little further forward than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sat down, in the saddle, these bikes do present you with a mechanical disadvantage going up hill as you have not got all of your weight over the pedals. Hence, when going up hill you need to be aware of that, to take a lower gear and inch your way up the hill much like how a recumbent cyclist has to...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...or get out the saddle and pedal with your weight on the pedals as if you were sprinting. Works the same as on a normal bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also 'easier' handling that is less twitchy but with a bigger turning circle with pedal forward design. So I don't think it is simply a question of workout intensity that you are looking at - ultimately you can put in as much or as little as you wants to...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the 1950's design commuter bikes are effectively 'pedal forward', only when the drop-bar racing bikes with ten speed did the relaxed geometry of a classic 3 speed go out of fashion. You can refurbish an old 3-speed with some modern tyres to get the comfy riding style that the likes of 'Electra' offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T17:38:50.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2011-10-19T17:44:39.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many smaller, university-based bike sharing programs provide helments.  For example, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sa.rochester.edu/citycycles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;City Cycles&lt;/a&gt; program at the University of Rochester (in New York) provides helmets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We have 20 street bikes (Gary Fisher brand) with fat, smooth tires for fast rolling and no punctures. We also have one tandem (a &quot;bicycle&#xA;  built for two&quot;). All bikes come with racks. &lt;strong&gt;Helmets are available (are&#xA;  encouraged) for all riders.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lsu.edu/urec/html/bike_rental.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike rental program at Louisiana State University&lt;/a&gt; also provides helmets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;LSU students may rent bikes for two hours each day free of charge from&#xA;  the UREC Student Recreation Center equipment desk. In addition, day&#xA;  and weekend rentals are available for a nominal fee to include use by&#xA;  UREC members and the community.  &lt;strong&gt;A helmet is included with each bike&#xA;  rental and LSU UREC recommends for it to be worn for the rider’s&#xA;  safety while operating the bike.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="778" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T17:44:39.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6559" CreationDate="2011-10-19T17:55:33.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advise, buy a suitable commuter bike and keep the mountain bike if you have room. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was in the same situation living in NYC. I found that conversion was not worth the effort and simply switched to a commuter bike. Converting your mountain bike would help but still leave you with some of the drawbacks, such as a heavier frame and shock absorption, which drains your efficiency. A commuter bike will surly get you out on the road more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local bike shop will help you find the perfect bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to keep in mind: &#xA;Frame size is key&#xA;Can you add a rack/fenders?&#xA;Do you want a single speed or multiple (i suggest multi-speed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2630" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T17:55:33.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6567" CreationDate="2011-10-19T17:58:20.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing that you would consider is &lt;strong&gt;cost&lt;/strong&gt;, lights can go from a few to hundreds of dollars. Over here (Netherlands), a lot of people use cheap LED lights, &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hema.nl/winkel/fiets/fietsaccessoires/mini-ledlampjes-%2841155055%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like these&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7w5rD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These work quite well, and are cheap enough you don't have to worry about losing them or theft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I would invest in are &lt;strong&gt;reflectors&lt;/strong&gt; on your frame, and in your wheels, as they will greatly increase your visibility with almost zero cost and maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Your-bikehelmet-Reflective/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Something like this:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qn4wl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2535" LastEditorUserId="2535" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T11:10:35.263" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T11:10:35.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6419" CreationDate="2011-10-19T18:08:37.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simplest solution i have found. When you start riding gently press down your brakes so they rub the rim. After about 100-300 yards your rims and brake pads heat up and dry and brakes are normal. Give it a try, its worked for me so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2630" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T18:08:37.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6567" CreationDate="2011-10-19T18:38:38.643" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main things to look for when purchasing new lights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How bright are the lights?&lt;/strong&gt; Can you see them for a few feet, a block, half a mile, etc?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the angle of visibility of the light?&lt;/strong&gt; It does you no good if you can only see the light from one single point - you want to be sure your light can be seen from a wide range of angles, especially for your rear light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What features are included?&lt;/strong&gt; - Do you get multiple levels of brightness (for your front light) or different flashing modes (for your rear)? It's nice to have different flashing modes on your rear because it catches people's attention at lot quicker than a steady light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How long do the lights' batteries last?&lt;/strong&gt; You don't want to get caught out with a dead battery (trust me, it's not fun)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To go along with the above - &lt;strong&gt;rechargeable set or normal batteries?&lt;/strong&gt; The rechargeable is a lot nicer IMO, because you don't have to worry about getting AA/AAAs every few weeks/months. However, it's a lot harder to bring or find backups if you're going to be out for quite a long time. If you go with AA/AAA's you can also use rechargeable versions, which would cut down on the cost if you use your lights often. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price point - &lt;strong&gt;How much is your safety worth?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Theft/secturity&lt;/strong&gt; - How often do you need to worry locking your bike up in an area where people can take / mess with your equipment? If it is quite often, you'll want to look into something that has a quick release from the light to the frame or rubber O-rings (those are fairly easy to take on/off often) - thanks Colin Newell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastEditorUserId="2469" LastEditDate="2011-10-20T19:25:40.910" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T19:25:40.910" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6559" CreationDate="2011-10-19T18:58:08.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend keeping a commuter bike for road use and a mountain bike for offroad use.  You can always ride a mountain bike on the road if you need to (albeit less efficiently than your commuter bike).  A nice, durable steel-framed hybrid is what I use for commuting, though that's really just a matter of prefence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a $350 mountain bike several years ago, and I learned the hard way why cable locks suck.  If you're going to lock your bike up in a public place invest in a good u-lock or something better than a cable lock.  Also, replace quick-releases with bolt-ons as those same douchebags also like to steal wheels and seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2596" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T18:58:08.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-19T19:01:01.623" Score="3" ViewCount="1963" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several conventions on how to signal properly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The simple method (straight left arm = left, straight right arm = right)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1282/what-hand-signals-work-best-for-cyclists-in-the-us/1283#1283&quot;&gt;This answer on SE&lt;/a&gt; depicts a left-arm-only way of signalling (straight left arm = left, bent 90 up = right)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know &lt;strong&gt;where&lt;/strong&gt; should one use which singalling convention? I'm personally mostly concerned about Europe, but let's keep the question general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2685" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T10:38:17.247" Title="How do hand signals vary between countries?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;signals&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6559" CreationDate="2011-10-19T19:02:32.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Funny you're in Seattle, I had the same experience when I was out there for a summer.  I just got &quot;slicks&quot; for tires and it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2359" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T19:02:32.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6559" CreationDate="2011-10-19T19:16:54.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always ridden mountain bikes, and even now that I commute daily since one year ago, most the time I go with my mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure, if you ride in the city and not on off-road trails, chosing a thin lightly threaded tire is the best thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like too thin a tire for 26 inch wheels, though, because the ride becomes very harsh with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now also have a fixie, it is SO MUCH faster and easier to go around, but it seems very obvious to me that a skinny-tire-much-lighter bike without fenders and racks and all should be much easier to ride anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T19:16:54.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6595" CreationDate="2011-10-19T19:26:23.480" Score="16" ViewCount="41567" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it considered safe-enough to only have a front-brake on a fixie in a urban area that has many hills?  I've been considering buying one, but I want to get some opinions before I move forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2674" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T07:19:37.043" Title="Front brake only on a fixed-gear bike" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6593" CreationDate="2011-10-19T20:00:00.927" Score="5" ViewCount="32799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a single speed - a Charge Plug Racer, and I realise I've made a mistake - too many hills on my commute and I need a smaller gear to help me up the hills. It's pretty hilly in my area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still like the simplicity of the bike, but cannot get up all these hills!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the easiest way to add a gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2688" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T13:48:23.783" Title="What's the easiest way to add gears to my single speed?" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6599" CreationDate="2011-10-19T20:41:07.633" Score="6" ViewCount="3072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to put drop handlebars on my commuter bike which has a straight bar. The guy at the bike store said that drop handlebars are too thick to fit my standard brake/shift system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to change my braking/shifting system. Can i modify my brake levers to increase the diameter so they can fit on dropped handlebars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2630" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T21:48:19.133" Title="Can I put drop handlebars on my commuter bike?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6590" CreationDate="2011-10-19T20:44:04.260" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you want, you might just be okay lowering the current gearing.  It comes with a 42t chainring and a 16t freewheel, and switching to a 17t or 18t freewheel will decrease your overall top speed somewhat but make it easier to climb up those hills.  If you want to have the option to swap for a harder gear when you're planning a mostly flat ride, you could either install a different sized freewheel in place of your fixed cog (on the flip side) or get something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html&quot;&gt;White Industries DOS&lt;/a&gt; 2-speed freewheel.  In either case, you'd change gearing by loosening the rear wheel and moving the chain position by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to switch to a true multispeed bike, you've got a couple options. Easiest might be to purchase a new wheel built around an internal gear hub.  Your rear dropout spacing is 120mm, and there are a few hubs that come in or can be reduced to near that width - notably the Shimano Nexus 8 Red Band, the SRAM P5, and several of the Sturmey Archer hubs can be made to work.  You could also look into getting the frame &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot;&gt;cold set&lt;/a&gt; to a wider dropout spacing, which would open up more IGH options (the Alfine 8 being a great one) as well as conventional multi-speed cassettes - though you'll need to get a derailleur hanger chain tug, like those made by DMR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T20:44:04.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6567" CreationDate="2011-10-19T20:48:15.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically your variables (not independent) are cost, brightness, and battery life (if not using a generator).  With regard to the battery you have rechargeable and disposable, which is perhaps another variable (definitely not independent of cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to decide first what sort of use you will give the lighting system, both in terms of brightness needs (is it just to be seen, or do you need light to see?) and in terms of frequency/duration of use.  If you only use a headlight occasionally then a simple clamp-on disposable battery unit is apt to be fine.  If you will use the light to commute morning and evening in the dark, and your total commute time is 90 minutes, you need something entirely different (ie, a good rechargeable system or a hub generator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I've not found a site that tests headlights for brightness and battery life, so you have to go by what the vendors say, which is often wishful thinking, or at least meaningless mumbo-jumbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, for the OP, living in the city, probably most important is a flashing taillight, the brighter the better.  The headlight can be a simple clamp-on model.  I once had a flashing xenon strobe (intended for use on life jackets) similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lightstheway.com/product/CWR10017&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and it was the cat's pajamas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T20:48:15.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6589" CreationDate="2011-10-19T20:49:54.747" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The front brake provides basically all of the stopping power in a bicycle, and recent tests in Bicycle Quarterly show that, in emergency stops, the distraction of attempting to use the rear brake may even increase stopping distance. Maximum bicycle braking power is achieved just before the bicycle starts to pitch over, as the rear wheel lifts off the ground. Once that occurs, it's trivial to lock the rear wheel with a brake or by using your legs on a fixed gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage of having a front brake only in extremely hilly situations is not being able to dissipate some of the thermal load of braking between both rims, so you risk overheating the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T20:49:54.747" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-19T21:23:12.117" Score="6" ViewCount="3330" Body="&lt;p&gt;i was wondering if there is anyone with a Rohloff hub riding half link chains for longer. OK, the hub isn't essential it's just a single speed chain, so experience from anyone who rides more than the guy in the review on that page below is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31089&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31089&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These chains are said to be very rigid. Good. But do they last as long as other high-end single speed chains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;best&#xA;         Hecke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2696" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T09:45:24.393" Title="How do half link chains perform for long term use?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6592" CreationDate="2011-10-19T21:45:12.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you did, it would be a lot of work.  You would have to have your braking/shifting system fit within the drops, most likely. If you did that, you would essentially have very narrow grips while braking, since your hands would be close to the stem.  With narrow grips, you lose stability, especially when going slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue would be that your system would have to be retightened, as your cable lengths would probably change.  And the fact that your system is modified will leave it more likely to failure if you had to grind away some areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say it isn't worth the trouble without replacing your system.  Even if you replace your system, it would likely be expensive, and depending on how much you paid for your commuter, probably isn't worth the cost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T21:45:12.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6592" CreationDate="2011-10-19T21:48:19.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very unlikely that your brake levers can be modified to increase the diameter enough to handle the change from 22.2mm to 23.8mm.  The brake clamps just aren't adjustable like that, typically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where on the handlebars were you thinking to mount the brake levers? If you were thinking at the middle (next to the stem), then you're likely in the area where the handlebar is wider (the &quot;clamp diameter&quot;) which is even worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option is going with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File%3aHybrid_handlebar.JPG&quot;&gt;&quot;trekking&quot; (aka &quot;butterfly&quot;) handlebars&lt;/a&gt;. These are typically the same diameter as straight bars and can easily accomodate the same brake/shift levers.  They look a little funny, but do give you more handlebar positions similar to what drop bars do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just add bar ends to your existing bars. The right bar ends can give you a comfortable sideways hand position similar to the main hand position people use on drop bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is handlebar positions on the drop bars.  Typically the position people use most often is on the brake hoods. Brake levers made for drop bars tend to have comfortably shaped hoods with a little bit of give in them. Brake levers made for flat handlebars don't generally have a comfortable place to rest your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to switch your brake levers, be aware that the amount of pull is likely different so you'll either have to be careful with which brakes you get or do something to accomodate the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a nice article that includes more details about changing to drop bars: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T21:48:19.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6621" CreationDate="2011-10-19T22:03:14.230" Score="-1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any advice on setting up and running a cycling crew?&#xA;I have absolutely no experience in this and am curious to see what the community had to say from experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is almost always more fun to have someone to share the stoke &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2644" LastEditorUserId="2699" LastEditDate="2011-10-20T04:26:42.583" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T11:09:30.053" Title="How do I set up and run a leisure cycling crew?" Tags="&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-10-20T13:13:28.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2011-10-19T22:03:25.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both question linked by Neil are rather comprehensive for the US and UK. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_signals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; (though not the greatest resource) seems to have a nice, even if short, list of arm signals in various countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Denmark, and while I couldn't find a trusted resource for it (there are a number of blog posts, though), I'd say the convention is to use straight left and right arm signals. And in reality they are something between a straight and a bent arm, so it only matters which arm is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eismas.eu/index.php/keliu-eismo-taisykles-ket/21-ket-xi-ispejamieji-signalai&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lithuanian traffic rules&lt;/a&gt; (note: it's in Lithuanian) indicate the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To turn right, use straight right arm or bent left arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To turn left, use straight left arm or bent right arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To stop, use either left or right arm straight up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2693" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T22:03:25.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6429" CreationDate="2011-10-19T22:44:23.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After using the other advices, to help yourself, you should inform the authorities about the malfunctioning, nonfunctioning device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about other cyclists, which don't know what to do as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it be, that street planning is done without modern bicycles in mind? If an accident occurs, they shall feel guilty! But better: They should rework their technique, and choose another approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1063" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T22:44:23.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6620" CreationDate="2011-10-19T22:44:42.947" Score="21" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;When accompanying children (in my case roughly in the 5 to 9 range) on a moderately busy (by rural standards) road on our commute to their school I'm sometimes ahead, sometimes beside (at least the smaller one) and sometimes behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is best practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bearing in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ahead of them&lt;/strong&gt; I can control their speed and demonstrate to them safe cycling&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;beside&lt;/strong&gt; is good, but this only takes care of one child (I'm cycling with two)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;behind them&lt;/strong&gt; I can see what's going on&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third option is what I tend to favour most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1033" LastEditorUserId="1033" LastEditDate="2011-10-20T12:54:14.187" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T12:12:24.260" Title="When accompanying children on roads - ahead, beside or behind?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;children&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2294" CreationDate="2011-10-19T22:51:17.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A blinking light is disturbing, even after you have been noticed, even from the opposite direction, it is hard to concentrate on something else. In Germany, these blinking lights are prohibited (StvZO §67 (4) 2.), and right so. Stop using them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you are safer, but the rest of the traffic is more unsafe. If everybody starts blinking and flashing, driving will become impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: In dark circumstances, blinking makes it hard to estimate the distance, if you follow such a light, and hard to estimate the change of the distance. &#xA;Since the eye can't adapt so fast to the changing light circumstances, the  viewing possibilities are reduced. For emergency vehicles, you are expected to slow down and stop, so that's a different situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1063" LastEditorUserId="1063" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T16:34:03.447" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T16:34:03.447" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6604" CreationDate="2011-10-19T23:01:36.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting in that what you describe what you're actually doing seems fine to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that, if I trust the 9 year old to stop at stop signs, lights, intersections, etc, ...I'd tend to go with behind. Namely, because you can see what's going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with &quot;ahead&quot; is when a child lags behind and you don't realize it. And also, you're constantly looking back; which may very well take &lt;em&gt;your experienced&lt;/em&gt; eyes off of the road ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say behind, but close, so that you have voice control at the very least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &quot;beside&quot;, it'll depend on the road or path situation. Side-by-side riding may or may not be more dangerous, so, you'll have to make a judgement call. On beside, I'd ride beside the less experienced child with the more experienced child ahead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T23:07:46.367" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T23:07:46.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6604" CreationDate="2011-10-19T23:12:08.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you run ahead you most definitely should have some sort of mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T23:12:08.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6610" CreationDate="2011-10-19T23:37:36.770" Score="5" ViewCount="2210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of having an old bike powdercoated to spruce it up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do to prepare the frame? Remove all components? What about stickers and decals? Some kind of chemical etching dip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an aluminium MTB frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1147" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T12:51:55.433" Title="Is there anything special to pay attention to when preparing a bicycle for powdercoating?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6609" CreationDate="2011-10-19T23:58:04.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll definitely need to remove all components.  For threaded bits you have two choices - leave junk bolts in there that will get powdercoated over and then carefully remove them (leaving a bit of an edge around the bolt hole) or let them get masked but almost certainly somewhat powdercoated into and use a tap and die set to chase them before reassembly.  Be prepared to face/ream/chase the headtube and bottom bracket in any case.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do make sure you've cleaned it as much as possible, removing any residual grease and road dirt.  I wouldn't worry about the stickers and decals, the media blasting to prepare the frame should take care of that.  With the relatively low cost of media blasting I wouldn't bother trying to strip the paint myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you find a powdercoater that is familiar with bicycle frames; particularly when it comes to media blasting they need to understand how thin the tubing is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T23:58:04.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6501" CreationDate="2011-10-20T01:05:49.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can safety measures be added to decrease the chance of repeating the accident? For example, if a vehicle's driver didn't see her early enough, wearing a high visibility vest might help. Perhaps a slightly different route that avoids dangerous intersections might be safer and make her feel safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2668" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T01:05:49.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6618" CreationDate="2011-10-20T01:26:29.200" Score="5" ViewCount="22776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a marathoner that is interested in mixing in some duathlons and triathlons, but I am having trouble finding a starter bike (&amp;lt; $1500) made for a tall man. I am 6'6&quot;. Any brands and models that you can recommend that offer a frame that fits someone around my height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2703" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-03-08T15:39:05.527" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T15:39:05.527" Title="Starter Road Bike for Tall Man" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;men-specific&gt;&lt;tall&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-03-10T07:05:07.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6615" CreationDate="2011-10-20T02:03:51.370" Score="4" ViewCount="1082" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a cyclist have the right of way in a traffic circle/roundabout/rotary (in the US)? Any tips for riding around one of these scary things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This past summer, I was riding around a rotary (a.k.a. roundabout) and a driver behind me wanted to leave the rotary, by turning right. Because she was driving faster than me, when she tried to turn right she almost ran into me and had to screech on her brakes - then proceeded to yell &quot;You should have used your hand signals&quot; to me, even though I wasn't turning (I was just following the rotary around). I am almost certain I was following the rules, am I mistaken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the rules go out the window sometimes anyway, and you have to watch your own back...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2702" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-10-20T02:25:23.077" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T04:38:06.257" Title="Rules for rotary/roundabout?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6613" CreationDate="2011-10-20T02:22:33.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I just try to take up the whole lane when in the roundabouts, so drivers don't have any reason to think that I'm exiting when I'm not.  However, the roundabouts that I traverse on are almost completely devoid of traffic.  I think some motorists might get angry with a bike taking up a whole lane (not that they should).  Anyway, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guelphnow.ca/npps/print.cfm?nppage=1597&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; in my country/province state that you're only supposed to signal (to the right, we drive on the right) when you are exiting, not to signal left when turning left around the roundabout.  It's funny that I just did that naturally, but the link I posted also states that you should merge into traffic and take up the lane so cars don't pass you. Bikes can travel about as fast as cars in roundabouts anyway due to increase cornering capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T02:22:33.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6613" CreationDate="2011-10-20T02:51:24.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, in theory you should ride near the left edge of the right lane (if multi-lane) until you get near your exit point, at which time you mosey to the right -- &quot;own your lane&quot;.  This is basically the same way you should ride on a road with shoulder when the shoulder converts to a turn lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, I suspect I'd be tempted to stop, dismantle my bike, and mail it to the other side at many of the rotaries I've seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that folks in the US are largely unfamiliar with these beasts, and are often seriously confused by them.  They can easily miss seeing a bike in the confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T02:51:24.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6617" CreationDate="2011-10-20T03:04:59.103" Score="39" ViewCount="46894" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only been riding for a short time and I remember when I was a child there was a belief that if you used your front brakes going downhill that you would fly over your handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my friend who is a long time rider said I should use my front brakes more often as they are more efficient and you would have to be doing something crazy to go over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any truth to the belief and should I use my front brake the most?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2460" LastEditorUserId="1835" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T20:36:57.250" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T12:52:43.667" Title="When should I not use my front brake?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-20T03:40:56.497" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's more dangerous as a kid to flip over your bars because there is much less weight preventing the bike from pivoting around your front wheel when you use your front brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The danger still exists as an adult, but using the front brake definitely improves braking performance. If you don't slam the brake there shouldn't be any problems. Additionally you might want to keep your weight on the back of the bike while braking downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; covers the topic of braking, you might want to give it a read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastEditorUserId="417" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T19:16:34.960" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T19:16:34.960" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6612" CreationDate="2011-10-20T08:16:38.370" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 6'6&quot; you're &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; going to be looking at the top end of most manufacturers size ranges, road frames of 62cm and above are the range you'll be looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said &quot;probably&quot; though, you would do best getting yourself to a local shop that knows something about fitting people to frames. Being so far from the average height I'd not risk buying something offline without having tried sitting on anything, particularly as it's your first road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2705" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T08:16:38.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-20T08:18:33.340" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;This comes under the category of things taught to children which simplify the whole truth in order to facilitate learning and keep them safe. Late on they will be ready to learn how to use the front brake effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When children are learning to ride, they are learning lots of new skills. Balance, pedalling and braking. They don't need to apply a lot of braking force as generally they are travelling slowly - whilst still learning - and also have lower mass - than most adults. So, for safety's sake and to simplify the learning they are taught to apply rear brake first, and front brake later to reduce the likelihood of going over the handlebars. In the conditions children are learning in - generally not wet slippy roads - the risk of skidding or fishtailing from applying the rear brake first is lower than the risk of going over the handlebars and the consequences are likely to be lower impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have learnt the balance and pedalling and can ride the bike reasonably well. You can move on to more advanced skills to become a really competent rider. One of those is how to stop more quickly when going at speed and with more weight on the bike (i.e. you're bigger). Now the risk of skidding the rear brake, or just not stopping in time due to inadequate braking force applied for the speed and mass is greater and needs to be dealt with. If the front-brake is used properly it can apply much greater braking force, without the risk of skidding associated with the rear brake. The most critical things is to ensure you keep your weight behind the front wheel and not over the top when applying the front-brake. To do this, ensure your weight is toward the back of the bike and that your arms are braced against the handlebars to absorb the force and keep you on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T08:18:33.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6604" CreationDate="2011-10-20T09:30:41.340" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;For safety reasons I prefer to be behind them. That way I can position myself on the road slightly further out then they are. This forces any overtaking vehicles to negotiate past me first and makes them provide a little more breathing space for my child in front. It certainly seems to prevent them trying to squeeze past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2707" LastEditorUserId="2707" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T12:12:24.260" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T12:12:24.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6600" CreationDate="2011-10-20T11:09:30.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean a group that gets together for leisure cycling once a week or so?  There's no &quot;formula&quot; for this -- you start with two or three others who are interested in doing rides and, if it &quot;works&quot;, more will find out and join you, or you may post a notice at local bike shops, on grocery store bulletin boards, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to decide in advance what sort of riding you want to do -- obviously on-road vs off-road, but also how far, how fast, what sort of routes, etc.  Also think about when -- during the day weekdays, in the evening, weekends, etc.  Though be prepared to be flexible if the group's desires are a bit different from yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T11:09:30.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-20T11:21:11.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a video of a guy going head-over while braking.  It happens amazingly fast.  (Similar, BTW, to how rapidly a farm tractor will flip over backwards if you tow by wrapping a rope or chain around the rear axle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going head over this way is pretty much inevitable if the front brakes lock -- weight transfers to the front wheel, multiplying its traction, so the front wheel simply cannot skid (on a dry surface).  And, as I said, it happens too fast for you to react.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But unless your brakes are exceptionally &quot;grabby&quot; this doesn't happen in anything short of a panic stop -- ordinary downhill braking to control your speed is not a hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen it recommended that you apply about equal force to both brakes, and when you sense the rear wheel skidding, let up on both (since the rear wheel WILL skid).  I have no idea how hard this is to do in practice -- I'm not so aggressive a rider that I want/need to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T11:21:11.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6604" CreationDate="2011-10-20T12:55:55.587" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;My children are 5, 9 and 11 and as the eldest ones are reasonably proficient, my 5 year old has not been cycling very long so she is a bit erratic, so I tend to go with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eldest in front - I know I can trust him to stop at junctions correctly.&#xA;9 year old next - she is good at cycling, but doesn't always pay attention, so having her brother stop at junctions in front of her helps a lot.&#xA;5 year old next, with me beside her so no matter how far she weaves she will not be the furthest out into the road. In an emergency I could also grab her or push her over onto the kerb (not ideal, but preferable to going under a car...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means I can see all three of them at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T12:55:55.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-20T13:02:07.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is remarkably easy to flip over the front wheel (I have done this as a child and as an adult) but far more commonly what happens is that if there is a slight turn on the handlebars and the surface is at all slippy the front wheel will fire out sideways extremely rapidly and you find your face at ground level!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned a lot of my control on a bicycle from motorcycling as a child, and a lot of the teaching is directly appropriate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The way use of the front brake is taught in motorcycling is that you&#xA;  use the back brake a lot, and &lt;strong&gt;only ever use the front brake when&#xA;  braking in a straight line&lt;/strong&gt;, and slowly increase pressure on the&#xA;  brake as the front wheel loads up (so you get more grip due to the&#xA;  additional load rather than braking traction.) In reality you can use&#xA;  light front braking any time you have reasonable traction, but the&#xA;  recommendation is to avoid it becoming a habit as in an emergency&#xA;  situation you might just grab the brake lever!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losing traction on the front wheel is generally unrecoverable on a bicycle, whereas losing traction on the back wheel doesn't even really impact your ability to steer so it is always preferable to use the back brake more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2011-10-20T14:08:51.837" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T14:08:51.837" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-20T14:01:01.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ride only paved surfaces, there is not much problem to use front brake, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem (from my extensive off-road background) is braking on curves or slippery terrain, where you should take a bit of care not to block your front wheel and fall from the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not saying the front wheel should not be used on curves, or on unpaved terrain, only that extra care should be taken to modulate front and rear brake forces so as not to block and slip the wheels (unless, of course, you want to skid the rear wheel on purpose to correct your trajectory, which is a very useful menoeuver sometimes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when you go down a curb, specially when going down a slope (for example, going from sidewalk to street), brake modulation and demodulation might be useful too: when each wheel is &quot;in the air&quot; between the two different height surfaces, the brake on that wheel should be quickly released, and just AFTER that wheel hits the ground it should be used again. It helps not to tip over the front wheel, and not to skid rear wheel (I care about my tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: and just to answer your last question, FOR SURE you should use your front brake abundantly! It is the front brake that saves lives (yours and others')&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T14:01:01.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6612" CreationDate="2011-10-20T14:22:02.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really should go to a couple of good LBS's and get fit. They'll be able to recommend some different companies that make bikes that will fit your build. There are so many different variables besides just height that it's impossible to recommend a brand based on what you've given. You need to know your stack and reach in order to find the best geometry for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2701" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T14:22:02.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6596" CreationDate="2011-10-20T14:24:19.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only experience I have had with half link chains was on my single speed mountain bike conversion. On the upside the chain looked really good on the downside the bike started to creak like you wouldn't believe. After dismantling and greasing hubs, bottom brackets, seat posts, chain ring bolts, saddle bolts... I finally tracked it down to the half link chain, new chain and the bike was once more silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T14:24:19.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-20T14:54:53.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If for some reason you are riding using only one hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2630" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T14:54:53.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6612" CreationDate="2011-10-20T15:22:23.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing &quot;off the shelf&quot; is going to fit perfectly for you. To mitigate, you'll want to experiment with long seatposts that have set-backs and long stems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're a marathoner, you're probably quite fit and are limber enough to deal with handle bars that are far lower than the seat. This lower stack height will also help you not be so cramped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, you may want to get custom geometry ($$$), but tall folks &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; get by with frames that don't quite fit. The pros do it all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T15:22:23.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6631" CreationDate="2011-10-20T15:55:43.010" Score="3" ViewCount="22091" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike I use to commute - a cheap, no brand city bike - is unbalanced, and naturally leans to the right. This is not noticeable normally, but it's enough to make riding without the hands on the bars requires quite some effort to avoid drifting right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I can't just ask you what the cause is, but could you help me in finding it? What should I look for/test/check? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2296" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T14:32:09.433" Title="My bike leans to the right. What should I check?" Tags="&lt;bike-setup&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6630" CreationDate="2011-10-20T16:27:27.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;a) Is the headset tight? Over time that can loosen up and it'll start to lean in one direction or the other (usually based on which side of the pothole you just hit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Are your wheels true? this probably won't make a major difference but it might combine with the previous point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) Is the weight on the bicycle evenly distributed? E.g., do you wear a messenger bag across your left shoulder so the weight of the load pulls the bike in that direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d) Does this happen in a parking lot as well as on the road? Don't forget that streets aren't flat - they curve off to the edges to allow water to shed from the roadway (and into nice deep puddles for motorists to drive through and splash cyclists). If it only happens on the road (and you always ride on the right hand side of the road) it's probably because of Gra-vi-ty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T16:27:27.340" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6630" CreationDate="2011-10-20T18:05:37.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First check that the handlebar is actually square to the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next check that the seat is straight relative to the top bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stand in front of the bike, straddling the front wheel, and sight down the top tube.  Verify that there is no twist in the frame causing the front steering tube to not be in line with the seat tube.  Check the fork and frame for any other obvious out-of-alignment problems.  (Note that a frame can be straightened if it's slightly bent.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then check to be sure that neither of the crank arms is bent (a common problem with bikes that are frequently dropped on their sides).  Also make sure neither of the pedal shafts is bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T18:05:37.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6638" CreationDate="2011-10-20T18:07:19.493" Score="5" ViewCount="1809" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I just purchased bikes for ourselves and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletrailers.com/3101/brands/copilot/copilot-model-double-bike-trailer/&quot;&gt;CoPilot Model A&lt;/a&gt; trailer for our 2-year-old.  We can lock up our bikes fairly easily, but the trailer leaves us a bit lost.  Everything on the trailer is easily detachable, and there's no evident way to lock the frame without removing the cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to lock it up?  Currently, we bring it into the house when we're home, but that doesn't help when we bike to somewhere and need to secure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2713" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T21:02:29.207" Title="Securing a bike trailer" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6630" CreationDate="2011-10-20T19:23:32.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much lean are we talking about? I jokingly said that you should ride around with a single pannier. However I ride around like this all the time, and if there isn't much in the pannier (pump, some spare tubes, a couple of small tools), I can easily ride with no hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check that your wheel is actually properly set in the hub.  I know on my bike it's possible to do up the quick release without the wheel properly seated. However the few times that I've done it, I noticed right away because the wheel rubs on the brakes. You should spin the wheels and ensure that the distance between the brake pads and the rims stays constant as it turns.  If it doesn't you either got warped rims, or the wheel isn't mounted right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-24T21:32:10.490" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:32:10.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6633" CreationDate="2011-10-20T19:39:20.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you can probably use aircraft cable (from a hardware store) to secure many of the loose bits.  (Eg, snake a piece of cable down the attachment arm, and then loop it through the frame at several places.) Depends on how secure you need it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T19:39:20.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6559" CreationDate="2011-10-20T20:08:41.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with your current bike, switching to smooth tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find your current bike comfortable, stick with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only when you find yourself putting in real mileage (let's say 15 miles/day), then get a road bike (or a fixie if that's your bent) to improve the efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T20:08:41.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2011-10-20T20:48:36.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Netherlands : The only thing I could find that you can be fined €25 if you do not signal with your arm or indicator. I haven't heard that anybody has been fined for not signalling, as most people do not trust other people enough to change direction without looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if people &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; use hand signals they indeed just &lt;strong&gt;extend their arms&lt;/strong&gt;, I really don't see any other way to signal anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, I just discovered that I could be fined €35 if I don't lock my bike.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2535" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T20:48:36.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6633" CreationDate="2011-10-20T21:02:29.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends a bit on what type of theft you want to prevent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to prevent opportunistic theft, then all that is needed is to put a lock through the wheels, as a thief would then decide that the trouble of breaking them isn't worth his effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to prevent deliberate theft, then adding a clamp to the towbar and locking it with that to something fixed might work, although no lock can withstand a determined thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of locks, with scores for how good they withstood some tests :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stichtingart.nl/sloten_resultaat.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stichtingart.nl/sloten_resultaat.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the site is in Dutch, I think you can use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2535" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T21:02:29.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6630" CreationDate="2011-10-20T21:27:55.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the headset bearings tend to be always around the same position while riding (because the headset does not spin, except for those performing barspins), and we rarely disassemble them, sometimes the spheres create depressions on the bearing tracks. This creates a &quot;stable&quot; position when the front wheel is pointing straight ahead, but sometimes this self-centering is to another (non-straight) position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check this problem, lift the bike from the top tube in normal riding position, and try to gently take the handlebar slightly away from this position. If the bike tends to &quot;self align&quot;, the most probable cause is this &quot;marked&quot; headset. Fully disassemble and clean the bearings to perform a visual inspection is the only way to be 100% sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve the problem, these sequential steps should be taken. If the former step didn't solve, go on to the next:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the headset just a little bit, letting it tightened just enough to prevent play when braking. This solves the problem sometimes;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open it (no need to disassemble) just enough you can spin the spheres out of position. Do this for the upper and lower bearing;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fully disassemble (including remove the cups from the frame), clean and remount in a different position;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If neither of these solves, replace the headset for a new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: take away the handlebar and perhaps the front brake, and perform some barspins, to reorient the spheres. This could be the &quot;Step 1.5&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2011-10-20T22:14:47.267" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T22:14:47.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6630" CreationDate="2011-10-20T21:33:57.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has the bike been in an accident recently? Your frame might be skewed as a result. Happened to me, with the exact same symptom. After careful checking it turned out the top tube was slightly bent in one place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened in the days of steel frames, though. An aluminum or carbon frame is more likely to break than to bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T21:33:57.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-20T22:36:44.487" Score="-2" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been about 10 years since I last rode on a bike.  My wife and I have decided that we need to get ourselves into shape, and one method we've decided on, encouraged by our daughter, is to bike back and forth to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Google Maps, I have approximately 10 km commute each way.  This will take place in the morning (generally 7:30 AM start, but sometimes earlier) and the afternoon/evening (generally 3:30 finish, but sometimes later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have my helmet and lights.  What other accessories are recommended?  Also, what kind of training should I look at before I go with the full daily commute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2713" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-10-22T13:31:23.433" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T13:31:23.433" Title="List of accessories and training for commuting" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2011-10-24T15:08:33.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6641" CreationDate="2011-10-20T23:44:51.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike (obviously)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helmet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suitable shoes -- What's &quot;suitable&quot; depends on how aggressively you bike and what sort of pedals you have&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock -- Whether you need a lock and how secure depends on your local conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sort of rain gear (unless you have an alternate arrangement for getting home if you get a surprise rain)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some way -- backpack, rack with baskets/panniers, etc -- to carry stuff to and from work (including your rain gear, when necessary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light -- you mentioned this, and you may want to see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6567/choosing-lights-for-my-bike&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thread for further info&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tools&amp;amp;pump -- not required, but some like to carry such stuff to handle a flat tire and other simple repairs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to clothes, you can either wear cycling-specific clothing (especially the shorts/tights) and change at the other end, or you can wear &quot;street clothes&quot;, so long as they're reasonably comfortable and provide sufficient range of motion.  For anything much longer than 10 km street clothes would tend to chafe and get too sweaty, but for that distance they &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you wear long pants be sure to get a leg strap to secure the chain-side leg of the pants so it doesn't get caught in the chain and doesn't get grease on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T11:08:47.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6646" CreationDate="2011-10-20T23:50:26.333" Score="10" ViewCount="1987" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many blogs and other sources of information on cycling advocate &quot;riding like a car&quot; or &quot;taking the lane&quot; as a way to increase safety and visibility when riding on a road. But such advice presupposes that doing so is legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it generally the case that bikes may use the &quot;full lane&quot;, or is it better to check with local ordinances? Is there a general rule of thumb one should apply in cases where one is not certain about local rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T00:23:09.933" Title="Is it generally the case that bikes are allowed to use the &quot;full lane&quot;?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6643" CreationDate="2011-10-21T00:19:10.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on the local situation I'd say. for instance the German road traffic act (StVO, Straßenverkehrsordnung) says in §2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(2) Es ist möglichst weit rechts zu fahren, nicht nur bei Gegenverkehr, beim &#xA;    Überholtwerden, an Kuppen, in Kurven oder bei Unübersichtlichkeit.&#xA;&#xA;(2) One has to drive as much on the right side as possible, not only with &#xA;    oncoming traffic, at hilltops, in corners or on complexity&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gesetze-im-internet.de/stvo/__2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gesetze-im-internet.de/stvo/__2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That rule is not specific for bikes but all sorts of vehicles which are allowed on roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the legal situation: Going on the right makes it simpler for faster cars to overtake one. When driving too much on the left car drivers can, in my experience, become annoyed easily. While one should be riding at the edge of the road but keep some space to the right so one can navigate if there are issues on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T00:19:10.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2011-10-21T00:29:16.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Germany: The law says &quot;(1) Wer abbiegen will, muß dies rechtzeitig und deutlich ankündigen&quot; / &quot;(1) When one wants to turn one has to indicate this in time and in a clear way&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gesetze-im-internet.de/stvo/__9.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;§9 StVO&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that is a good law straight to the point. Everybody possibly affected has to be warned. In school I learned to use straight let or right arm. In practice I barely do this as much, this then again depends on the other traffic and road situation (on narrow roads of bad quality i keep my hands closer to the handlebar to keep my bike under control etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T00:29:16.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6643" CreationDate="2011-10-21T01:23:17.913" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;For any question about law, you always have to check local laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The general rule is that you go with traffic and ride as far to the side as safe, taking the lane when it makes you safer.&lt;/strong&gt; In many places this is how the law is written, but even when it isn't you may wish to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I recall of the League of American Bicyclists safe cycling class I took, in the United States you're allowed to &quot;take the lane&quot; basically anytime that doing so is safer.  The exact laws vary from state to state, but they all basically allow this same behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons to move away from the side include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hazards (glass, gravel, bad pavement, possibly opening car doors)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the lane isn't wide enough for a car to pass safely (to discourage dangerously close passing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;where a right turn is possible (to avoid right hook hazard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you're required to use a shoulder or not is different in different states. In California you're allowed to use a shoulder, but not required to; a narrow lane and wide shoulder allows you to legally use the full lane (but riding on the shoulder might be better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Police often don't know the proper rules for bikes and mistakenly think you're always required to ride as far to the right as possible. Other road users often have that same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key phrase to look for to learn more is &quot;vehicular cycling&quot;. There was a big move to vehicular cycling in the 60s and 70s, an I've noticed many laws that make it explicitly legal date to the 70s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T18:26:49.950" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T18:26:49.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6643" CreationDate="2011-10-21T03:15:02.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far as I know, in the most if not all states in the US it's legal.  The laws may specify &quot;as far to the right as safely possible&quot; or something like that, but they generally leave it up to you to evaluate what's safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minnesota law, eg, states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subd. 4.Riding on roadway or shoulder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(a) Every person operating a bicycle upon a roadway shall ride as close as practicable to the right-hand curb or edge of the roadway except under any of the following situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) when overtaking and passing another vehicle proceeding in the same direction;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) when preparing for a left turn at an intersection or into a private road or driveway;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) when reasonably necessary to avoid conditions, including fixed or moving objects, vehicles, pedestrians, animals, surface hazards, or narrow width lanes, that make it unsafe to continue along the right-hand curb or edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem, of course, is that you may encounter others (both drivers and law enforcement people) who do not interpret the law this way (mostly because they've never read it), but that's a problem for all cycling-related laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T03:15:02.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6643" CreationDate="2011-10-21T03:26:00.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/pubs/cycling-guide/section5.0.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ontario&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;HTA 147 - Slow moving traffic travel on right side&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any vehicle moving&#xA;slower than the normal traffic speed should drive in the right-hand&#xA;lane, or as close as practicable to the right edge of the road except&#xA;when preparing to turn left or when passing another vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For&#xA;cyclists, you must ride far enough out from the curb to maintain a&#xA;straight line, clear of sewer grates, debris, potholes, and parked car&#xA;doors. You may occupy any part of a lane when your safety warrants it.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Never compromise your safety for the convenience of a motorist behind&#xA;you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;is it better to check with local ordinances?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that statutes about driving on the sidewalk and sharing with pedestrians varies (in North America) from city to city; but I expect that statutes about driving on the road vary less, and are set by the (larger) State (or Province, or Country).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some roads are 'no cyclists or pedestrians' and signed to that effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess if you're going somewhere unfamiliar you should find out the local laws and customs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T04:31:30.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6641" CreationDate="2011-10-21T04:55:14.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I already have my helmet and lights. What other accessories are recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the weather:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rain coat and warm clothing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fenders (aka mud-guards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack and pannier (to carry e.g. any spare clothing, wallet and keys)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling gloves, and cycling shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shorts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adequate tires (size, width, pressure, thickness, tread, puncture resistance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snack, cell phone, optional first aid for you and/or for the bike, ID, public transit fare&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire pump (to keep at home, but to keep your tires at the right pressure; may need to use it at least weekly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock (a U-lock is difficult to cut, but a cable is very easy to cut)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weather report and forecast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disc brakes (if it's wet or muddy or hilly, or heavy braking)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked about accessories and not the bike; ideally (because a good bike is more fun) your bike is of a kind that's worth servicing, and has been serviced recently: so the wheels spin freely, the brakes work well, the chain is newish, the seat and everything fit you, and the gears if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, what kind of training should I look at before I go with the full daily commute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a good bike and not too much traffic, 10 km is about 35 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So take your bike out for half an hour or more. Maybe twice in a day. Scout your routes in advance. Enjoy doing it. Feel better for having done it. Do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T04:55:14.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-21T06:15:58.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically you just have to get a feel for it, depending on your bike, the brakes, your weight, what you are carrying (eg rear panniers), and the road conditions (loose surface, wet, downhill etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two main things to beware of when front braking are:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Not going over the bars.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Not front braking through corners.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get away with the second one when traction is good, but you only need a little gravel, a little oil (middle of lane at lights is full of oil) that can cause your front wheel to lose traction under front braking. So #2 still holds! Avoid it! You should brake &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When braking in a straight line you should use your front brake mostly, as it is your most effective brake, being wary of going over the bars of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For slow manouvering, or one handed riding (sometimes you have to indicate whilst cornering), or if you have to brake whilst cornering, use the back brake smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T06:22:39.580" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T06:22:39.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6514" CreationDate="2011-10-21T09:58:09.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go for a carry freedom, I used the Y frame for a 700mile touring trip and it was brilliant.  It's a simple flatbed trailer which would be adaptable to your purpose.  Totally overbuilt and always felt really solid. The whole trailer flat-packs as well which is handy for storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would warn against single wheel trailers for your purpose as you'll make the bike more difficult to deal with at low speeds because there will be the extra weight trying to pull it over.  Also it'll put more stress on the back of your bike as the weight will be distributed 1/2 and 1/2 with the one wheel trailer instead of 1/3 bike - 2/3 trailer as with two wheel trailers.  The comment above about handling is probably not an issue because I had my trailer up to 40mph and never had any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carryfreedom.com/products.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carryfreedom.com/products.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2523" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T09:58:09.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-21T12:19:13.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can most definitely flip over if you press your front brake too hard. But also it's the most powerful brake as when you brake, your body weight will push/pivot onto the front wheel causing it to transfer most of the force from/to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The angle of your front fork, a steep angle will cause you to flip over easier compared to a downhill bike where the fork almost points straight forward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your front fork suspended. This in combination with a not so steep fork angle will allow you to notice easier where the limit goes as the suspension will usually contract fully before you start pivoting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your front wheel wryly and you've got rim-brakes(v-brakes)? This can cause uneven braking and suddenly and unexpectedly lock your front wheel causing you to flip over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How high up and how far back you sit. Higher =&gt; Easier. Further in front =&gt; Easier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, conclusion: &lt;strong&gt;TRY&lt;/strong&gt; where your flip-over limit goes and learn how to use the brake most efficently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2724" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T12:19:13.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-21T13:35:58.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other good answers have not mentioned group riding. If you are riding in a pace line, club group, charity ride, etc., you should not use your front brake except in emergencies. In short, any time you have someone riding behind you, you need to slow gradually whenever possible and your front brake slows you much more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I do a lot of group riding, I wear my rear brake pads out first, which is not typical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic tactic for using your front brake is to shift your weight backward on your seat as you grab the brake. It takes a lot of experience to make this habit automatic, but it will keep you from flipping even in emergencies. You may still have the rear wheel hop if you grab very hard but you won't go over the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1396" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T13:35:58.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2011-10-21T14:41:20.283" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In countries where you drive on the right side of the road (the US, and most European countries), you should signal with the left arm. That means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning right: signal with a 90 degree bent left arm out to the side,&#xA;pointing up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turning left: signal with a straight arm out to the side, straight&#xA;out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason to use the left arm is that your left brake is the front wheel. If you have to brake in an emergency situation, it's usually better to heavily use the rear brake. If you only use the front brake, there's more of a danger of going over your bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In countries such as the UK, where you drive on the left hand side of the road, brakes are reversed. So signal with the right arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, pointing clears up some ambiguity compared to a bent arm, but is less safe for the cyclist when turning right (or left in the UK, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2725" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T14:41:20.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6659" CreationDate="2011-10-21T18:13:37.817" Score="1" ViewCount="3289" Body="&lt;p&gt;my trail bike (only i've ever attached a rear rack) have a straight line from the seat stays holes to screw in the rear rack and the top clearance for the rear tire. my wife's fuji bike has the rear tire way higher than the holes on the seat stays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can i add any brand of rear rack to this bike? or should i look for something special for these cases?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UCMEu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fuji absolute 4.0 ladies&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T22:50:22.027" Title="best rear rack for fuji absolute bike?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6657" CreationDate="2011-10-21T18:34:56.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With racks, carrying capacity is far more important that brand or model. With the exception of racks that click into bags made by the same manufacturer (like Topeak), racks are mostly all the same. The exception to this is high-capacity touring racks, which get quite expensive and are overkill for anything but touring or hauling very heavy loads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned that you'll have to mount the rack on a bit of an angle, don't worry about that. However, if the rack stays are being blocked, then you have a problem that'll have to be solved with bending rack stays, and that'll reduce the effective carrying capacity and durability of the rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T18:34:56.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6657" CreationDate="2011-10-21T20:00:39.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes a little bit of bravery the first time, but you can easily apply some force and bend the front rack stays to reach down to the seatstay.  The rack stays are designed to be bent, and doing so doesn't appreciably reduce the carrying capacity of the rack.  The majority of the load is carried down the vertical portions of the rack to the dropouts, and the horizontal stays are purely there to prevent the rack from rotating forward or backwards - their effect on the load bearing capacity of the rack is negligible.  Many constructeur bikes do away with those stays entirely, bolting the rack directly to the rear fender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T20:00:39.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-21T21:18:10.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 30 years of riding in hilly cities and in the mountains, I use both brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the front brake... I don't jam on it heading downhill. Also, it's most always the secondary brake when negotiating tricky downhill curves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the type of thing that one has to develop a &quot;feel&quot; for. At times, I may be on the front at 20% and the rear at 80%. Or maybe 50/50 in other situations. In emergency braking situations, sometimes my butt is actually behind the seat and over the back wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestion... find a moderate, low traffic hill and practice, so that you understand how braking feels when heading downhill. Practice shifting your weight to the rear of the bike; and practice with varying degrees of pressure on each brake. After a few jaunts up and down a hill, you'll have a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Anecdotally, A while back, I had a rear brake cable that broke on a long descent out of the mountains... basically, I had to use the front brake only to slow down and stop. Probably one of my scariest situations.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T21:55:04.737" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T21:55:04.737" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6657" CreationDate="2011-10-21T21:45:11.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possible solution may be a seatpost mounted rack.They have a capacity of around 20lbs. Since they attach to the seatpost only there should be no clearance issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2729" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T21:45:11.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-21T23:30:10.843" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually you can always use front brake but you should never lock your front wheel if handlebar is not in straight position. You definitely do not want front wheel skidding because you cannot control it. Plus this applies a twisting force to handlebar and can pull out of your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI: despite the other answers said, inertia pushes you from the saddle toward the handlebar when you decelerate whichever brake you use, front, rear or both. One could fly over the handlebar because decelerating too hard, regardless of brake used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, adult have more mass than kid, and therefore have more chance to fly over due high centre of mass of bicycle-cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2731" LastEditorUserId="2731" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T23:54:35.083" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T23:54:35.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6664" CreationDate="2011-10-22T04:14:14.207" Score="3" ViewCount="946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just picked up an '09 Transition on craigslist, and was expectantly dismayed to find that the stock brakes aren't quite wide enough for my Zipp 404 firecrests.  When I remove the straddle cable (unsure if that's correct term for this particular type of brakes), they open up enough for the super wide 404s.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody either a)  know the part number for the straddle &quot;cable&quot; that came stock, so I can order a slightly longer one or b) have any suggestions for how I can open the brakes up another 4mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i2zT8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i2zT8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference image:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/YPYdx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/YPYdx&lt;/a&gt;.  What I'm calling the &quot;straddle cable&quot; is what connects the two calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2732" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T00:14:19.563" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T00:14:19.563" Title="How can I widen brakes on an '09 Specialized Transition Pro?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6663" CreationDate="2011-10-22T05:26:48.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This part is specific to Specialized. They only make one size. If you loosen the center cable, it should have more than enough clearance for a Zipp wheel, even if you have the new Firecrest design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The straddle clip can be replaced with a standard cantilever straddle cable and a hook, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v8RXG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Examle of cantilever with straddle cable&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it is not ideal for leverage on the brakes, which may reduce your stopping power. And I'm not suggesting installing the cantilever brake, only using the bridge and straddle cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T05:26:48.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6609" CreationDate="2011-10-22T12:16:24.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have taken a bike to a powdercoater before. Many of them actually do motorcycle frames regularly so they're very good with prepping the surfaces and screw holes and dealing with complex shapes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest thing for me was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/345018-Easy-to-remove-and-install-fork-race-crown-with-minimal-tools&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the fork race&lt;/a&gt;-- I had to have it removed by a bikeshop. Some people have success with a DIY approach, but it is safer to do it with the right tools and experience (it is not a routine maintenance activity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is residual grease or frame-saver compound in the tubes, the powder-coater should have solvents to remove this stuff. Just ask them about your concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T12:16:24.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6585" CreationDate="2011-10-22T18:59:09.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The left-arm-only way sounds to me like a way to signal if you're riding a motorcycle, since you can control your speed with your right hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Belgium, and afaik you should indicate whenever it's safe to do.  When you're riding down a road in bad condition, or in bad weather, it can be better to have both hands ready on the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do realize that people don't need a bike-riding-license.  Children can ride a bike far sooner than they can comprehend the purpose of signaling.  And I don't think it would be wise to fine someone who didn't signal, unless he's really bringing other people in danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2669" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T18:59:09.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6446" CreationDate="2011-10-22T19:07:37.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the very same problem a while ago and it turned out that it was the free hub on the rear wheel, and when I checked it the whole cassette was loose. I replaced the free hub and hey presto the problem was solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2734" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T19:07:37.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6557" CreationDate="2011-10-23T12:56:36.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of these questions have answers that are based on very subjective and personal choices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should look at buy a frame that fits, if this one doesn't fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, I wouldn't build an old frame with new (even new old stock) parts, since the value of the complete build will be far less, generally, than you will spend on the parts to build it, and many of the parts will need to be replaced if you pick a new frame to rebuild everything on later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you doing this as a learning project? If so, then the education might offset the extra cost involved. If you just want a fixie, fixies are cheap. I'll pretty much guarantee you can buy a better fixie than you can build, for around the same cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these are things you have to weigh the value of for you personally. I wouldn't do it. But then, I know that because I've done it. So how should I tell you not to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do it or don't, as long as you are aware it isn't the cost effective route, but it might be the fun, DIY route for you... If so, Enjoy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T12:56:36.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6670" CreationDate="2011-10-23T18:33:36.217" Score="12" ViewCount="3845" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is resurfacing the brake pads in disc brakes (hydraulic or mechanical) necessary?  If so, what would you use to do this - medium sandpaper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spoke to one mechanic while shopping for a bike, who suggested resurfacing on a monthly basis...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastEditorUserId="2735" LastEditDate="2011-10-24T13:55:41.320" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T21:44:43.587" Title="Disc Brakes: Resurface your Pads?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6669" CreationDate="2011-10-23T21:19:49.130" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've met a mechanic that either wants you to buy more brake pads from his/her shop or doesn't know what he/she is doing. There's really no good reason to resurface your disc brake pads, let alone on a monthly basis. All that's doing is decreasing the life of your pads and temporarily decreasing your braking power until your pads bed back into the rotors.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think that the reason some mechanics feel the need to resurface disc brake pads is a carryover from the need to resurface rim brakes, which do need to be resurfaced in some instances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T21:19:49.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6673" CreationDate="2011-10-23T21:56:25.363" Score="9" ViewCount="15410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road/cyclocross/commuter frame that is currently spec'd with road components - all Shimano 105, with an Ultegra rear derailleur.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cassette (10 spd) tops out at 27 teeth, and the rear derailleur has a very short cage compared to Deore/XT/XTR I've looked at.  If I wanted to use a cassette with more teeth, 32 or 36 - I was wondering if there'd be any issue with swapping out the current Ultegra for a 10 spd Deore/XT/etc cassette &amp;amp; derailleur but still using the 105 STI?  Both shifters &amp;amp; derailleur would be 10 spd, but I don't know if say cable pull is the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T17:49:28.360" Title="Road Shifters, Mountain Rear Derailleur?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6676" CreationDate="2011-10-23T22:11:56.480" Score="12" ViewCount="1306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to buy a spare tube to carry while riding, but it appears there is wide choice: the first website I checked carried 92 items in the tube category, another one had 69, with prices varying from 3,29€ to 16,5€ (that's 5x).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for aside from size and valve type? Does brand make a difference, or is it more like “grab any one, they're all the same”?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2296" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T23:00:52.297" Title="What should I look for when buying tubes?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6671" CreationDate="2011-10-23T22:27:22.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Won't work. Dyna-Sys uses a different pull ratio than Shimano road components, and the cassette uses a slightly different spacing as well. You could use a SRAM cassette, but that still leaves you with the derailleur issue. They do make 105 and Ultegra long cage derailleurs, however. If you've got a double up front, especially a double with proper cyclocross gearing (tigher ratio than standard or compact road), the long cage road derailleur should be more than adequate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T22:27:22.790" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6672" CreationDate="2011-10-23T22:32:23.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you're looking for a lightweight or specialty tube (latex, flat resistant, etc), make sure you've got the right size and right type and length of valve stem and you're pretty much good to go with any butyl rubber tube. Most tubes out there are simply re-branded Kenda tubes, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T22:32:23.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6589" CreationDate="2011-10-23T22:50:23.683" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is pretty subjective. I'd say it's preference. Some riders truly have enough skill on a fixed gear bike to go without a rear brake. Most do it because of convention. It's considered unfashionable to have a rear brake on a fixie, and for many fixed gear riders form trumps function. In my opinion its a little foolish not to have a rear brake. Backpedaling to stop on a fixie is bad for your knees and in an emergency stopping situation it's harder to give the bike the body english it may need while you're trying to push backwards on the pedals at the same time. On the flip side, having a rear brake on the bike isn't going to hurt anything, though some hipster might dock you on style points. In my book that's just another plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T22:50:23.683" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6672" CreationDate="2011-10-24T00:08:49.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a few people say brand doesn't matter and they all come from the same factory / country. I've had bad experience with some tubes though (ok I'll mention them, BBB). They would bulge in places.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've typically had no problems with tubes from the major tyre manufacturers like Michelin, Continental and Schwalbe.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Schwalbe marketing suggests &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.de/gbl/en/produkte/schlaeuche/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;their tubes hold pressure longer&lt;/a&gt; than other brands due to higher quality standards or possibly more butyl, and Michelin does too for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michelinbicycletire.com/michelinbicycle/index.cfm?event=tubesexplained.view&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;their butyl tubes&lt;/a&gt;.  Lightweight or Latex tubes will not hold pressure as long and need to be pumped up more often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to think the large tire manufacturers know their rubber, they have better quality control and they care about their reputation. So I don't subscribe to the &quot;they're all the same&quot; philosophy.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At my LBS there is little price difference, if any, between say a standard Michelin tube and a BBB. The price difference you're seeing may be for specialist features such as very lightweight, puncture resistant, latex etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-10-24T00:27:42.367" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T00:27:42.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4912" CreationDate="2011-10-24T00:50:58.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it is necessary to indicate and brake whilst turning across traffic in a roundabout for instance. So if you're in the UK / Australia / NZ / Japan / India etc, this would be indicating right, with your right hand, to take the third exit of a roundabout. If your front brake was on the left, you'd be using your front brake with only your outside hand on the bars and brake, whilst leaning over to take the corner.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In my experience and from what I've heard (motorcycle license course in Australia), the rear brake is easier and safer to use for most people in this situation (cornering, slow manoeuvring, indicating, turning across traffic). There is not such a problem indicating left, because you are not turning across traffic, so there is less need to brake, indicate and corner, all at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course for the Americas, Europe and countries that drive on the right, replace &quot;right&quot; with &quot;left&quot; above :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T00:50:58.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6685" CreationDate="2011-10-24T08:32:31.900" Score="3" ViewCount="704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a Surly Pugsley project bike.  The front hub isn't set up for a disc brake so I'm looking to install a cantilever brake.  It has 65mm large marge rims.  I've scoured the internets and haven't found a recommendation for non disc brakes for the pugsley. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What cantilever brakes are compatible/recommended for use with Surly Pugsley 100mm front fork and the larger marge rim?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="348" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T18:47:20.677" Title="What cantilever brakes are compatible with Surly Pugsley 100mm front fork?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;snow&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6671" CreationDate="2011-10-24T12:25:02.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that it can be made to work with a 9 speed MTB derailleur rather than a 10 speed; see &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikehugger.com/post/view/roadmtb-10sp-shimano-incompati&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a description of how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T12:25:02.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6596" CreationDate="2011-10-24T13:29:07.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I used to ride a half-link on a BMX bike, and it did not make much of a difference even when I was beating on it.  I also put in many miles on it (it was my only ride at the time) and never had a problem or noticed a difference.  The only advantage was that it allow me to run pretty much any gearing I wanted with smaller dropouts.  I eventually replaced it with a KMC Kool Chain and noticed no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I ride a Black Market Mob with some generic KMC single-speed chain, and I also beat on this chain.  I also commuted 10 miles round trip with hills on this bike for a long time.  Never had any problems.  Maybe I'm just lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have the problem that Jackon had with the creaking, but giving it a spritz of Superlube once in while did the trick every time.  I've never heard of anyone comparing half-links to normal chains on a bike with an internally gearing hub.  If you're willing to drop the coin, I say find out what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2596" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T13:29:07.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-24T14:46:44.970" Score="11" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was chatting with the owner of a local farm of which I am a subscriber, and he mentioned that he was considering hauling boxes of veggies between work sites using a bicycle or tricycle. There is of course variety of cargo bikes and trailers in the world to choose from, but most utility bicycle equipment is oriented towards paved surfaces. Thus trailers with 20-inch wheels might not fair so well on unimproved trails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there styles of bike, trike, or trailer that are already in use on farms that you've seen or heard of? How much trail improvement should he undertake, since his roads are mostly driven by his tractor and delivery van?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T07:21:34.523" Title="Bicycles on Farms?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;utility-cycling&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6681" CreationDate="2011-10-24T17:08:03.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most extreme conditions he'd want something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pugsley&quot;&gt;Pugsley&lt;/a&gt;.  For less extreme conditions any &quot;mountain&quot; bike should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a way, the trailer is probably less critical than the bike.  So long as the tires are large enough in diameter to not get caught in potholes, and so long as they are sufficiently wide to not sink into the soil (given whatever load they carry), a decent trailer will follow along behind fairly nicely.  It's mostly a question of finding something durable enough for the duty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T17:08:03.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6681" CreationDate="2011-10-24T17:30:23.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest using longtails or boxbikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longtails are bikes with the rear wheel farther back, so that you can have a huge rack and probably some boxes. Most of them are strong and kind of &quot;already mountain bikes&quot;. My favourite examples are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/asphalt_simplicity.cfm?content=ute&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kona Ute&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://yubaride.com/mundo-cargo-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yuba Mundo&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility are the &quot;remote steering&quot; box-bikes, much used in Denmark and Netherlands, where you have a giant box between you and the front wheel. Examples are the classical &lt;a href=&quot;http://bakfiets.nl/eng/modellen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bakfiets&lt;/a&gt;, and the more modern &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.larryvsharry.com/english/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bullitt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I don't mean you should buy any of these brands or models, but rather be aware of their existence, so you can perhaps order a similar solution to a local builder, or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not carry apples on a trailer as a first choice, because of the extra size, extra effort and extra-rattling compared to a loaded bike, but it depends a lot on your terrain, indeed it might actually be the best solution, so you only need a proper trailer to use with a regular bike. In this case, a two-wheeled trailer probably would be the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T17:30:23.407" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6681" CreationDate="2011-10-24T17:31:02.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trailer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a big difference in what you can use on a graded surface or dirt road versus an ungraded track or single track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the primary use is graded at about the width of a car and relatively smooth you can get away with almost any single or double wheel trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are mostly rough or single-track you will do best with a single wheel bicycle trailer. The better single wheel trailers I have seen are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobgear.com/yak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bob Yak&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://momentumplanet.com/articles/weber-monoporter-trailer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Weber Monoporter&lt;/a&gt;. You do have to avoid overloading them or as they sway they will steer the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think that any quality hard-tail 26&quot; or 29&quot; bike would work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T17:31:02.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6678" CreationDate="2011-10-24T18:47:20.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any medium-profile or low-profile cantilever brakes should work on the Pugsley; so long as you're using the Large Marge rims the effective cantilever post to rim spacing should be basically the same as a normal bike. The default spacing for most cantilever bosses is 80mm for use with a ~25mm wide rim.  On the Pugsley the bosses are spaced 120mm for a 65mm rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shimano &quot;link wire&quot; style straddle cables will almost certainly be too short,   For clearance, with whatever brake you use I'd plan on making it work with a high-quality yoke and a long straddle cable, as used on a wide-profile cantilever. You might even be most successful dialing in your own using a set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/cable-hardware-brake.html#ends&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cable knarps&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T18:47:20.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-24T22:01:22.630" Score="6" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want a bike that will take me to and from work quickly, but not make it too easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get to work, I have to ride a quarter mile up a steep hill, which will be difficult on a bike. I want to spend less than 1k on this bike, but I want it to be high quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 6/2 masculine build 230lbs &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2742" LastEditorUserId="99" LastEditDate="2011-10-24T22:23:41.470" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T20:55:37.807" Title="Quality to/from work bike" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6686" CreationDate="2011-10-24T22:05:37.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been very happy with my Trek Fx (I opted for the 7.3 model).  It's a solid and quick bike, plenty of fun to ride, and with a rack and fenders a very solid commuter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend intentionally buying a &quot;difficult&quot; bike, but rather just change your style of riding if you want a little more effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1373" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T22:05:37.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6686" CreationDate="2011-10-24T22:42:18.157" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably what you want is a &quot;hybrid&quot; or &quot;commuter&quot; bike. Flat handlebars (like a mountain bike), smooth road tires (but a bit fatter than on a racing bike), usually the right stuff for mounting a rack and fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go down to your Local Bike Shop and look at what they have. Make sure it's a store that basically just does bicycles, not a department store that does everything.  Tell them you're looking for a hybrid or commuter or &quot;urban&quot; bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends on pricing in your area, but pretty much every shop has 2 or 3 hybrid bikes in the $500-$1000 price range, typically the same basic model with an upgrade option or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about a steep hill, when you look at the bike, make sure that the front includes a fairly small cog and that the back includes a pretty big cog. Something where the biggest rear cog is about the same size (or even a little bigger) than the smallest front cog. That kind of thing is common on hybrids of this type.  If you're looking at online specs, the front will be called a &quot;crank&quot; or &quot;crankset&quot; and have 3 numbers (you don't want one with only two front gears) such as &quot;48/38/28&quot; and the rear (or &quot;cassette&quot;) will typically say something like &quot;11-32, 8 speed&quot; (note in this example that 28 is smaller than 32 so this does match what you're looking for). Sometimes there's marketing terms like &quot;megarange&quot; for this kind of thing, but the marketing terms aren't important, only having a low enough gear is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the major bike manufacturers make &quot;hybrid&quot; or &quot;commuter&quot; type bikes.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx&quot;&gt;Trek FX&lt;/a&gt;, Specialized &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCMain.jsp?scid=1102&quot;&gt;Sirrus&lt;/a&gt;/Vita, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/escape/8910/48611/&quot;&gt;Giant Escape&lt;/a&gt;, etc etc...  There's differences, but the most important thing is which one fits you well and which one you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If $1000 is what you have to spend, consider getting a bike that's under $750 and using the other $250 for accessories like lights, fenders, a rack or basket, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-25T20:55:37.807" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T20:55:37.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6690" CreationDate="2011-10-24T23:03:59.177" Score="9" ViewCount="10094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded the standard Tektro brakes on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://archive.sebikes.com/archivebike.php?prodid=1306&amp;amp;prodname=700C%20Lager&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SE Lager&lt;/a&gt; to Shimano 105s. The braking performance is vastly improved. I also have Charge Plug wheels, rather than the stock wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I've noticed that there's not quite enough adjustment in the calipers to position the pads correctly. Even at the lowest position in the caliper arms, the pads are still very slightly too 'high' and overlap the upper curve of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a problem? Is there anything I can do to solve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrz8n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brake location&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T00:38:19.193" Title="Brake callipers not long enough to allow adjustment of pads" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6689" CreationDate="2011-10-25T00:13:52.117" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those pads do look ever-so slightly too high on the rim, the main danger being that any slight vertical eccentricity could result in the pad contacting the tire and causing a blowout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, you could use a round file and simply file out the bottom of the slot slightly to increase the clearance.  This works best if you only need a very small amount of additional reach and are willing to accept permanently modifying your brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, you could buy a set of brakes with a longer reach.  The Shimano 105mm calipers are 39-49mm &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html#reach&quot;&gt;reach&lt;/a&gt;; if you instead purchase some higher-quality dual pivot calipers that are 47-57mm reach you'd have plenty of room for adjustment and should be able to achieve equally good braking capability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T00:13:52.117" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6712" CreationDate="2011-10-25T11:25:39.750" Score="5" ViewCount="8245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to injury I've got to take a little time off from biking.  My physical therapist recommended doing a &quot;couch to marathon&quot; program when I'm feeling better to get me back into the swing of things.  But, being that I would rather ride a bike, are there any &quot;couch to century&quot; programs out there?  The reason my knee problem has persisted is because I get too excited when it feels a little better and I overdo the biking right out the gate resulting in re-injury.  So, I'd like something that takes me up to a century at a slow pace, maybe over a few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: In the spirit of less chatty answers, maybe a link to a specific training program would be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2528" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T21:05:18.190" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T21:05:18.190" Title="Couch to Century" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;century&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6691" CreationDate="2011-10-25T12:07:09.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than targeting a C (which I assume means you want to participate in a race and be &quot;competitive&quot;), maybe you should consider touring instead.  Slower paced, non-competitive, emphasizes simply enjoying the ride.  Can be day trips or weeks long, road or trail, self-contained or supported, alone or in a group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T12:07:09.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-25T17:50:02.810" Score="10" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some bamboo bike frames out there in the world. I am curious as to how they ride? Is it similar to a steel, aluminum, or carbon fiber frame? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think it's worth the effort to build one yourself? If anybody has built one you got any tips that would make the process easier? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just looking for some general information. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2630" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-11-20T19:05:58.567" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T04:40:22.650" Title="Bamboo Bike Frames" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bamboo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6693" CreationDate="2011-10-25T18:20:57.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine builds recumbent bikes from bamboo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He gets good quality bamboo which are some 4 inches diameter, and they need to be cooked (a mix of boiling in water and baking, has to do with some chemical reactions on the bamboo starch that help to harden the fibers and prevent decomposition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, after he cuts the appropriate shape, he paints/seals every surface with Araldite carbon-fiber high-hardness resin (this is not a technical description!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual resin code is LY 5052, I found some info in the Araldite site, there are a lot of other resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tubes are tied to one another with lots of loops made from some natural-fiber rope he uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bikes ride well, he managed not to breake any one of his bikes yet (and he is not light on them). Since bamboo is a composite material, I think the ride would be similar to some composite frames, a.k.a. carbon frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A link:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ecobamboobikes.blogspot.com/&quot;&gt;http://ecobamboobikes.blogspot.com/&lt;/a&gt; (in portuguese, some photos, google-translatable)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T18:20:57.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6696" CreationDate="2011-10-25T22:50:25.777" Score="5" ViewCount="24129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike looking frame with wheels that currently have road tyres. The bike is classified as a hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;My tyres state: 28&quot; x 1.6 (42-622)  &#xA;The rim: ETRTO 622 x 18&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having difficulty locating any mountain bike tyres for size 28&quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can I use size 29&quot;?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Would I need a different set of rims?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, do I need a different tube for these tyres?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to do some dry trail mountain biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of question. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T04:50:24.630" Title="Can I convert hybrid to mountain bike. Tyres and tubes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6695" CreationDate="2011-10-25T23:03:26.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a bunch of weird standards for naming the size of tires and rims, and there's an actual ISO standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is ignore the big letter printed names that have inconsistent conventions, and look for the ISO standard stuff, like &quot;42-622&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ISO standard size of your tires and rims is 622.  (18mm wide rim and 42mm wide tire)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ISO 622 is the same as &quot;700c&quot; (common road size) and 29er (new larger mountain tire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: yes, a 29&quot; tire should work fine, as long as it's not too wide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to stick with something close to the same width and they'll work fine with your existing rims. Mountain (off-road) tires with their knobs can require more clearance at the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you keep to about the same size tire, your existing tubes should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-25T23:12:48.203" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T23:12:48.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20704" CreationDate="2011-10-26T00:06:30.307" Score="5" ViewCount="3085" Body="&lt;p&gt;most night lights are designed to attach to the seatpost. but while carrying a bag on the rear rack that area get's blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;some manufacturers sell cheap, awful, lights that attach to the rack (topeak) but i figure some kind of adapter would be much more useful (mostly since everyone may have night lights before getting a rack... i do :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but my searches for such a adapter failed. do you know any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one example of night light i have&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/rechargeable-7-mode-red-5-led-safety-bike-tail-light-with-7-mode-2-red-laser-beam-35mw-90117&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dealextreme.com/p/rechargeable-7-mode-red-5-led-safety-bike-tail-light-with-7-mode-2-red-laser-beam-35mw-90117&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(i regret. do not buy, laser is useless snake oil. but the leds are OK. EDIT: regret #2, i had rain for the 1st time --socal-- and when wet, the shorted the buttons which are obviously not water proof, so it spend all night turning the leds and laser randomly on and off. battery hold up ok though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this a rack&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackburndesign.com/racks/mtn-2-rack.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.blackburndesign.com/racks/mtn-2-rack.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(it has a hole on the back, where you can fit a L shaped adapter that holds a reflexive cat's eye)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2014-03-07T06:33:53.567" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T10:09:10.267" Title="attaching seatpost acessories to rear of racks?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6697" CreationDate="2011-10-26T00:44:52.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a lightweight light that clamps to a seatpost all you need is a piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter and some way to clamp it to your rack.  I'd recommend about a 5&quot; length of plastic or steel electrical conduit (though buying such a short length may be difficult).  Or a length of wooden dowel will work.  Clamping it to the rack will require some ingenuity, but if the rack has a reflector bracket attached you could drill holes in the pipe to bolt to the bracket.  If there are only mounting holes for a reflector bracket, you can bolt an &quot;corner bracket&quot; to the rack and bolt the pipe to the bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But another option, for the light you have, is to discard the pipe-clamp portion of the bracket and bolt just the actual mount to something.  A short length of aluminum &quot;angle iron&quot; would probably work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T00:44:52.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6691" CreationDate="2011-10-26T00:50:53.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are &quot;couch to century&quot; training plans. Depending on your problem, a century can be easier on your knee than a marathon since the maximal force during cycling is lower than during running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycling.about.com/od/trainingandfitness/a/century.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a link to a typical &quot;10-week&quot; training plan&lt;/a&gt;. If you search around a bit you can find training plans from 8 weeks up to perhaps 14 weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T00:50:53.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6695" CreationDate="2011-10-26T02:45:49.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;28, 29, 700c, all the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[all the same rim diameter, with wildly varying tire sizes. The tire will fit the rim, but is unlikely to fit in the frame, if it is mch larger than what came on the bike.]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As freiheit pointed out ISO is the same on all of those tire sizes as well as your rim. The thing to be worried about is when your rim width gets really close to or greater than your tire width (ie running a skinny road tire on a wide mtb rim) or when there's a significant difference (wide mtb tire on a road rim). You can run a tire in the 30-50mm range on pretty much any rim width you want, so you're safe there. Regarding the tube to use, the one you currently have should have a measurement on it, inches for mtb or mm for road but beyond size one is no different than the other. It should read a range, something like 700x35-42 or 29x1.0-1.5. If your tire falls within that range you should be fine. Too big a tube and it's going to be hard to cram in the tire and you'll probably pinch it when mounting it- too small and the rubber potentially gets stretched too thin and the tube pops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Also, if you want to know more about rim/tire sizing, go visit the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;late great Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt; though it may cause more confusion than clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-11-09T04:50:24.630" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T04:50:24.630" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6697" CreationDate="2011-10-26T03:00:46.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want something purpose made I know that there are lots of rear lights that come with reflector mounts as included options. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackburndesign.com/mars-4-0-rear.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here's one from Blackburn.&lt;/a&gt;. Look around and read the specs, or ask your LBS for suggestions (there are lot's of crappy lights out there and every shop has their favorite that's proven itself to be durable). There are also plenty ways to rig a light onto the reflector mount of your rack, just use your imagination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T03:00:46.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2011-10-26T04:26:00.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer: what do you like most on the gym?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your answer is aerobics, get the lightest bike and increase the commute ride each day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if your answer is weights, get the heaviest bike and add cargo/pedal faster each day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was 10Kg above my regular weight. i loath cardio. and love weight lifting. So i got a 12yr old mountain bike, with wide tires. restored it just enough. carry a lot of stuff and a heavy chain. started doing 12km/h avarage, jumped on the first week to 21km/h on a 6+km comute. now i am doing almost 26km/h average.  it's nothing for someone who like to ride the bike. i hate to :) got back to my weight in some 12days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bottom line is, the efficiency of the activity is NOTHING compared to your willingness to progress on it. So if the worse method has more changes of you sticking to it, go with the worse method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T04:26:00.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6709" CreationDate="2011-10-26T06:22:29.930" Score="7" ViewCount="7808" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike does not perform badly at the moment, however browsing this site has lead me to wonder whether the performance of the brakes (the front one in particular) could be improved by various means and how effective those are. I am squeezing fairly hard and stopping in a short distance, however I am looking to improve the 'stopping force per force applied to levers' ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a road bike that has single pivot side-pull calliper brakes and alloy rims. I think the pads are rubber (not sure exactly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The techniques I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(already done) Steel to alloy rims? Answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4136/do-aluminum-rims-provide-better-braking-than-steel-ones-when-wet&quot;&gt;Large performance improvement in wet conditions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single pivot to dual pivot? Wikipedia says &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_brake#Traditional_cantilever_brakes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;These brakes offer a higher mechanical advantage, and resulting better braking&lt;/a&gt;.&quot; What is the experienced improvement?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing to materials for the brake pads (Rubber, leather, cork)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T16:01:33.760" Title="Effectiveness of techniques to improve the performance of rim brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6691" CreationDate="2011-10-26T08:25:10.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend getting the book &quot;Crunch Time Cyclist&quot; by Chris Carmichael. There is a review here for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roadcycling.co.nz/Coach/cycling-book-the-time-crunched-cyclist.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.roadcycling.co.nz/Coach/cycling-book-the-time-crunched-cyclist.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has a specific 10 week program for novices raising their training to Century rides, but he covers so much more as well, background, nutrition etc. I'm sure you could use this to then build your own program if you want to do it over more than 10 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked for me, I went from a being a 10 mile commuter to a 2 day 170 mile charity rider in 8 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2707" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T08:25:10.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6703" CreationDate="2011-10-26T09:46:59.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just my 2 cents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From my experience, calibrating the brakes correctly can lead to a big improvement in braking. I think you can find a lot of tips for calibrating the brakes here already, or on the Internet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also keeping your brakes in good shape, like oiling the cables and joints will help you make braking easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleaning aluminium rims from time to time with soapy water also helps in getting a cleaner braking experience, but i did not notice a difference with steel rims.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am currently waiting to get my leather brakes delivered, and will then update if they helped improving stopping power in wet conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T09:46:59.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6703" CreationDate="2011-10-26T14:24:55.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Properly adjusting and lubing your brakes is the key to keeping good brakes.  You want your brakes to have a snap to them and to feel them make contact with the rim.  Squishy brakes are generally a bad thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to make sure that both pads are laying flat against the rim.  To properly do this not only must the position of the pads be adjusted but the wheel must also be trued.  Also, it helps if the rim has a machined or anodized sidewall (as opposed to a painted one).  You've already go this covered.  Wipe the rims with degreaser.  As far as brake composition, nice rubber pads work fine to my experience and always be careful not to contaminate the pads with degreaser or lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the pads are an even distance from the rim.  If you have newer caliper brakes, there is probably a set screw on the side that allows you to adjust the brakes from side to side and maybe one for the distance between the brakes.  The old caliper brakes require you to change the alignment by adjusting the bolt attaching them to the frame.  If your brakes squeal, it can help to have this alignment a hair off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the cable housing is lubed properly and that the cable is not fraying anywhere (this is also a safety thing).  The cable likes to fray down at the pinch bolt on the brakes that holds it in place.  When I've installed a new cable, I like give a nice hard pull on the brakes.  This helps to ensure that the cable is stretched.  Some cables claim to be prestretched, but I do this anyway just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it helps to lube any pivot points in the brake itself.  I don't go wild here, just a few drops of lube in each pivot point.  Make sure the all bolts and screws are sufficiently tighted.  That's all I can think of right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  To answer some more questions, dual pivot is generally more effective.  However, like everything else it depends on the quality of the brakes and how well the brakes are adjusted.  Cheap single-pivot brakes scare me, though.  Brakes flex when you hit them, and cheap single-pivots flex a lot when you hit your brakes hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2596" LastEditorUserId="2596" LastEditDate="2011-10-26T14:33:41.997" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T14:33:41.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6703" CreationDate="2011-10-26T16:15:58.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You did the right thing by replacing the steel rims. Vintage bikes are nice, but the 70's can keep their steel rims. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, you should make sure that the entire brake system is properly adjusted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're dealing with an old bike, I recommend just replacing the brake &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?d=single&amp;amp;c=Cable/Casing&amp;amp;sc=Brake%20Cable&amp;amp;tc=&amp;amp;item_id=LS-1001AC&amp;amp;id=348157628674&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cable&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?d=single&amp;amp;c=Cable/Casing&amp;amp;sc=Brake%20Casing&amp;amp;tc=&amp;amp;item_id=WN-1400.1&amp;amp;id=348157628674&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;casing&lt;/a&gt;. This can be done for less than 20 dollars. Before inserting the brake cable smear a thin layer of grease on it by running it past your fingers with a dab of grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your levers are in good shape, slather the interior pivot points and cable anchor with grease. If not, then just replace them. Again, that can be done inexpensively-- and you can get &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi?d=single&amp;amp;c=Brake&amp;amp;sc=Brake%20Levers&amp;amp;tc=&amp;amp;item_id=LS-13803&amp;amp;id=348157628674&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;aero brakes&lt;/a&gt;&quot; which route the cable under the handlebar wrap (non-aero brakes are another thing the 70's can keep!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there is nothing wrong with single pivot brakes. Yes, dual pivot is marginally better because they tend to stay in place (not rub the rim) and you get a barely noticeable increase in leverage. You absolutely will want to replace your brake pads, however. Modern brake pads are sooo much better. I and many others have had success with the koolstop dual compound brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T16:15:58.470" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6697" CreationDate="2011-10-26T22:03:35.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shopcateye.com/product/rear-rack-mount-bracket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cateye&lt;/a&gt; seem to have quite a few mounting options for each light on their website, including an adapter bracket for a rear rack, which fit most Cateye lights at least. You can also buy just the mounts without having to buy a whole light, or light set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could get a light designed to mount to a rack which many of the German ones do like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bumm.de/produkte/dynamo-ruecklicht/toplight-line-plus.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Busch and Muller&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then you have the no bracket style lights like the ones from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.knog.com.au/gear-lights/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Knog&lt;/a&gt; that you should be able to mount to a rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2014-03-08T21:52:04.973" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T21:52:04.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6697" CreationDate="2011-10-26T23:31:23.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is to use extra rubber shims to use the seatpost attaching mechanism to attach to the stay of your rack, like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6GOQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6GOQm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to use something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/lighting/low-down-light-mount-type-ii.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Low down light mount&lt;/a&gt; bolted through that hole to give you a little bit of post hanging from the hole and use that with the seatpost mount...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to mount the hardware without the seatpost mechanism to the hole of an L-bracket mounted in that hole...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With racks with a more serious light mounting bracket instead of just a horizontal hole, I've found many light can clip directly to the bracket with no extra hardware at all, like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LjgGK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LjgGKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFo05.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFo05m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uyd5Cm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T23:31:23.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6691" CreationDate="2011-10-26T23:51:50.917" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to answer this as a true couch to century with a general plan. You can write books on this stuff. There &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; been books written on this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have three major goals for a successful century:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the raw fitness needed to keep the pedals going for 6+ hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Figure out how much you need to eat while going for the entire thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the above without getting any stress injuries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Off the Couch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You are off the couch. You have a bike, old, new, mountain bike, road bike, it doesn't matter. If you've never ridden, get something cheap so you're not out much money if this isn't for you. You have at least one pair of cycling shorts, gloves and a helmet. The goals here are just to ride around. Don't go terribly hard, find some scenic routes, avoid steep hills if possible. Most importantly, work on pedalling smoothly. Nice circles with the feet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each week, try to get in three one hour rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Building up&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Make your way up to 4 rides per week. Three shorter ones and one longer one, maybe up to 2 hours. On your favourite loop, you'll see your average times slowly dropping. You are still not trying to ride really hard. When you get to the point that your weekly 2 hour ride isn't leaving you wasted for the day and the century still seems like a good idea, it's time for the next phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Really Starting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Get a road or touring bike. Mountain bikes were fine up until this point, but unless your century is off road, you will want a real road bike. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3549/bike-fitting-experiences&quot;&gt;Get fitted by a pro&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, this is possibly your single biggest injury prevention mechanism. Get &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/827/what-should-i-look-for-in-clipless-pedals-and-shoes&quot;&gt;clipless pedals&lt;/a&gt;. Practice with them on the grass until you stop falling over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following sections can be repeated as needed. I did not get to 'month 3' for at least a year. Listen to your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Month 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you commute by bike, everything other than the 'long' ride could be 2 shorter rides, always work on smooth pedalling. For the longer ride, bring a small snack and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3532/how-much-to-eat-and-drink-during-a-50km-ride&quot;&gt;practice eating&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Week 1-2: 3x1 hour, 1x2 hours&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Week 3: 3x1 hour, 1x3 hours&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Week 4: 4x1 hour&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Month 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once per week, on the one hour ride, spend about 20 minutes in a flatter section riding harder. You want to hit a pace that's uncomfortable, but when 20 minutes is up, you can keep riding. You're not killing yourself here. You should be breathing hard, but if you really had to, you could go at that pace for an hour or more. This will take practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer rides now provide the constant threat of bonking. Try out gels, sports drinks, bananas, cold roasted potatoes and see what is palatable for you on the ride. Most organized  centuries have food stops, so you need to know before you do it if the food they are going to provide will agree with you. Aim for ~300 calories per hour, but listen to your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Week 1-2: 3x1 hour, 1x3 hours&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Week 3: 3x1 hour, 1x4 hours&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Week 4: 4x1 hour&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Month 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once per week on a one hour ride, do 2 of those 20 minute efforts with a 10 minute gap in the middle. Again, you're not killing yourself on these. It's uncomfortable, your legs are telling you that it would be nice to slow down a bit, but you can tell them to shut up. Put one or two similar sections into the longer rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Week 1-2: 3x1 hour, 1x4 hours&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Week 3: 3x1 hour, 1x5 hours&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Week 4: 4x1 hour&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Century&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once you are capable of a 5 hour ride, assuming that's not already century distance at your speed, you will effectively be capable of riding for 100 miles. It's just a matter of continuing to eat, drink and keep the pedals going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Listen to your knees and joints. You will get more supple on the bike and you may need to get fitted again several months in. Fortunately, after that, you shouldn't change much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T15:03:42.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6609" CreationDate="2011-10-27T00:02:19.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You indeed need to remove as many components as you can. I took an old cruiser to a powder coater a few months ago and had a pretty nice result. From my experience they will sandblast the frame before so you do not need to worry about it being dirty or having stickers... it will all be taken care of with the sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in other posts the main issues are the threads and the bearing races. The worse for both would be if they get sanded. Try to cover them as well as you can with duck tape or equivalent and make sure you clearly explain them not to touch those areas. On my bike there was a bit of paint on the bearing races for both the fork and the bottom bracket (old type of cranks/bb). I used a dremel with a metal spinning brush in order to nicely clean the races and reface them, and it seems to be working pretty well so far (make sure you grease them afterwards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2754" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T00:02:19.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6722" CreationDate="2011-10-27T00:21:06.850" Score="3" ViewCount="959" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6693/bamboo-bike-frames&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; has got me hugely excited about building a bamboo bike. I've found some instructions and tips &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-I-built-a-carbon-bike-frame-at-home-and-a-bam/?ALLSTEPS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://build-its.blogspot.com/2010/09/building-bamboo-bike-frame.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to find/buy an old bike to use as a donor. I think I'll use the head tube, forks, stem (basically the whole front end) from the donor bike to minimise compatibility issues. I'll use the dropouts from a bmx, since I'm building a fixie and it has horizontal dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which leaves the bottom bracket. I could buy a new one from a framebuilding supply site or use the one from the donor bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do I need to consider for the bottom bracket? Should I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ca-g.html#cartridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cartridge style bearing&lt;/a&gt; and buy some &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/cranks/130-single.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;single speed cranks&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the odds that my old donor bike will have a bottom bracket shell that will fit with the new bottom bracket bearings? Do I need to buy a bottom bracket shell from a framebuilding site?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any other complications I've overlooked?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T13:43:06.803" Title="Bottom bracket for framebuilding" Tags="&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2011-10-27T07:39:08.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to inflate 10% shy of max because I'm light (150lbs) and I like my ride to not be jarring yet roll fast. For me its a compromise.There is a sweet spot you find after riding a particular tire for a while. Also if its wet or rough or sandy you may wish to run lower pressure resulting in a larger contact patch=more grip but also more rolling resistance. Ultimately, with experience you will feel whats best for you. It just takes a little time.We all start out not knowing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2755" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T07:39:08.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2664" CreationDate="2011-10-27T11:27:16.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're after a book on bicycle building you may want to have a look at this one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timpaterek.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.timpaterek.com/&lt;/a&gt; It is meant to be quite a comprehensive resource. Am considering buying for myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T11:27:16.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6714" CreationDate="2011-10-27T11:38:33.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agree with Daniel about the cartridge style BB. Just make sure whatever cranks you get that they're compatible. One thing to think about with bonding, if you plan to use carbon fibre you will need to do some form of barrier layer to protect the steel, otherwise overtime the carbon and steel will have a chemical reaction that causes corrosion.  Applies to any carbon and steel bonds, not just the BB shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T11:38:33.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6714" CreationDate="2011-10-27T13:05:22.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you should select a donor frame with characteristics you feel comfortable to work with. So, if you can fully assemble the donor bike, you just cut it in pieces, take the parts you want and assemble the bamboo bike with the same parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a novice with bike mechanics, it would be VERY advisable to get a frame, build a complete bike from it by yourself, ride it for a while, then disassemble it. For sure you are going to get precious insights about your own skills, some tricks involved in assembly and disassembly, and you will have time to change your mind (change for another frame, or another frame type or size) before you actually CUT anything ;o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2011-10-27T15:37:44.433" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T15:37:44.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6703" CreationDate="2011-10-27T16:10:03.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely, as others have pointed out, properly adjusted and maintained brakes are the best performers. I just want to add that some people may overlook to clean the rim's braking surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim must be free of oil, grease, and stuck dirt. Personally I really like the brake feel after cleaning my aluminum and alloy rims with regular kitchen soap and a scotch brite pad (Sorry for the advertising, I don't know this product's generic name). The pad is really good at removing stuck oil, dirt, and rubber from the rim. It is almost like using sandpaper, but it won't damage or wear out the rims. They are also excellent at cleaning the pad's braking surface. As per installation of new pads, I also clean the pads with the same scoth brite, until the surface has a dull appearance (i.e. not shiny) and this avoids the need to break in the new pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I include this procedures in my routine brake maintenance, so again, the most effective &quot;technique&quot; to improve brake performance is precisely, &lt;strong&gt;appropriate maintenance!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T16:10:03.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6452" CreationDate="2011-10-27T23:44:51.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Jason S said above, you've got a GXP (&quot;Giga X Pipe&quot;) style crank, made by SRAM (possibly labeled Truvativ on it).  The design is two bearing cups screwed into the frame, which support a shaft that goes through the cups affixed permanently to the drive side arm, and the non drive-side arm attaches via a self aligning screw.  It's actually a very intuitive design and is far less sensitive to torque specs than you might think.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you really need is an 8mm allen wrench of suitable length (I use a full size one about 7 inches long).  You should clean it up, especially since it's likely got grit and grime on it, and be sure to clean the threads INSIDE the shaft, since that's actually what's holding it all together.  The splines on the shaft need to be cleaned too, since it's nearly a perfect fit, and even a little dirt and grime can compromise the fit.  Once all cleaned, you'll want to grease the threads and the spline shaft (this might sound odd, greasing something that came loose but it prevents creaking) and align the crank, tightening it slowly.  As you tighten the screw it'll pull itself together, and when you have it all the way tightened, it will stop pulling the arm together (A good check is to try to move the crank side to side, if it does that at all, it isn't tight enough)  If you can't get it started it may be stripped, and then you'll need to get a new crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T23:44:51.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6612" CreationDate="2011-10-28T01:32:31.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 6'6&quot;, be wary of your local bike shop, unless you really trust them or they have a great reputation.  Sounds like blasphemy to say that, but one of the problems you may have is that many manufacturers may not make a large enough frame for you and you will get sold the biggest thing they have from the brands they carry.  Off the top of my head, in non-custom models, Trek and cannondale both make bikes large enough (I have a 6'5&quot; friend on both of those), and I know for sure Specialized and giant do not.  63+cm would probably be your likely range, but a good shop with a fit that you will probably pay 100$ or so for should be able to help you dial that in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things other than frame size are important as well.  I don't know your dimensions but you're probably wider in the shoulders than most, so you'll want handlebars that fit you well.  Stem length is also partially driven by flexibility, so that's a consideration too.  Also crank arm length can be tough for bigger guys, the expert in tall bikes is probably Lennard Zinn.  He's a big guy himself and a custom frame builder, you may want to have a read through his &lt;a href=&quot;http://zinncycles.com/Zinn/index.php/archives/5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt; and consider some aftermarket options for those components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T01:32:31.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6714" CreationDate="2011-10-28T03:12:27.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at Sheldon's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;entry for &quot;bottom bracket&quot;&lt;/a&gt;; it lists several different types, but most of them you'll never see. Most bikes made today use the &quot;British&quot; BB shells. You might also see a few of the one-piece cranks (especially on older BMX and dept-store bikes), but this design is becoming obsolete. So if you get a donor bike that doesn't have a one-piece crank, then you should be able to find a compatible BB at any place that sells bike parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T03:12:27.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6724" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-28T11:58:49.293" Score="2" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a cycling jacket for fall/spring.  Depending on how well it works I may use it through (part of) winter as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a bit of shopping last night and purchased this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/JacketsVests/PRD~5017-604/mec-supermicroft-cycling-jacket-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MEC SuperMicroft Cycling Jacket&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pubd6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought the jacket home and began having second thoughts.  I am thinking about returning it and continuing my search.  Here are my requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cuts the wind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will not become like sauna inside making me soaking wet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has good road visibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't have to be extremely waterproof but being able to fend of a light shower would be nice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern with this jacket is the breathability.  It has pretty big armpit zips.  It is made out of &lt;em&gt;&quot;Super Microft™ microfibre polyester, which is soft and quiet like cotton but tightly woven and treated with durable water repellency (DWR) to shed water&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.  It feels like the fabric will cut through the wind well but might leave me very wet inside.  The jacket does not have any kind of back vent which may be problematic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am riding in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.  It has been pretty wet here lately.  I haven't riddin in the rain too frequently but the roads are always wet (thank you fenders).  The temperature I want to use this coat in would be about +7C to -2C and maybe colder if I can layer correctly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do you use when cycling in cool weather to keep the wind from chilling you and keeping the moisture away from your body?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone have any views on this jacket?  Would your recommend something else? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T17:31:27.787" Title="Looking for a cycling jacket for Fall/Spring" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;jacket&gt;&lt;coolweather&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6672" CreationDate="2011-10-28T13:48:18.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use Latex tubes. if you buy any of the huge company like michelin or schwalbe you can be sure to have &quot;good&quot; tubes. but i had 2 flat tyres in 6 months using butyl and i'm now cycling almost 6 months with Latex tubes and i didn't have a flat tyre, you'll need to pump your tubes every-time you go for a spin because latex looses his pressure pretty quick (3-4 days and my tubes have no pressure left) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;latex is a bit more expensive than butyl but that's only a couple of dollars. &#xA;probably cheaper than time you loose to put on a new tube&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2761" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T13:48:18.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6746" CreationDate="2011-10-28T15:07:50.973" Score="23" ViewCount="4105" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the cafe stop on my local Saturday ride a few of the guys we chatting and one guy asked an other if he was riding a compact drivetrain. The other guy objected loudly and they then joked with other members of the group suggesting they were riding compacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would the notion of riding a compact drivetrain attract such a response?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastEditorUserId="2302" LastEditDate="2011-10-28T20:26:39.443" LastActivityDate="2020-06-20T11:00:23.437" Title="Why might a compact drivetrain be frowned upon?" Tags="&lt;bike-culture&gt;&lt;compact-crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6727" CreationDate="2011-10-28T15:25:57.510" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pedalling with compact cranks is supposed to be easier. So people who take great pride in how strong they are and how fast they can go don't like when you're able to do the same with (apparently) less effort. You can compare to being passed by electric bike while climbing, some people just feel the person on the e-bike doesn't &quot;deserve&quot; to be that fast and it hurts their ego.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty much a &quot;I'm manlier than you&quot; thing, like &quot;I use brute force to be fast, while you needed to have a mechanical advantage&quot;. Add to that the fact humans don't like change and it's in our nature to frown upon new things trying to go against old &quot;standards&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blog &lt;a href=&quot;https://whynottri.wordpress.com/2008/05/28/going-compact-standard-vs-compact-cranks/&quot;&gt;Why not tri?&lt;/a&gt; has a nice little article about Compact vs Standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T15:25:57.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-28T17:26:10.623" Score="3" ViewCount="1556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road wheel that has Campagnolo splined hub and 10 speed cassette.  I'd like to know if anyone has any experience running a Campy wheel on Shimano/Sram drive train?  I know the measurements of the cassette sprockets are a bit off but wondering if you can get acceptable shifting performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2762" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-28T17:56:41.960" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T06:32:21.807" Title="campagnolo wheel on shimano or sram drivetrain?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6724" CreationDate="2011-10-28T17:55:46.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like that MEC jackets in general.  But as you note, you will often get pretty sweaty with anything that does not vent hugely.  Even in the most expensive GoreTex jacket you are still going to get sweaty. I am not convinced there is any actual great solution.  There are just a series of lesser evils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MEC used to have a jacket long discontinued, and I treasure my one remaining example, that was SuperMicroft on the front, over polar fleece, and similar put different outer feel polar fleece for the back half.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rode in this as a winter coat for a decade.  The idea is the front blocks the wind, the back vents the heat/sweat.  In the winter, if I stopped at a light, my back would be steaming as the heat flows out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was the best bet, since literally half you upper body surface area is a vent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas they (and Europe Bound) no longer sell them (at least last I looked, nor can I find them in the online catalog).  I loved how in Toronto, every time MEC moved, Europe Bound opened a store across the street.  That was pretty funny as a business plan!  (Like when Starbucks opened in Toronto the joke was they mapped out all the Second Cup stores and opened as close as they could find a spot.  No clue if really true, but sure looked that way!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T17:55:46.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6729" CreationDate="2011-10-28T18:48:27.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have experience with that exact setup. I have used a Shimano-9 wheel on a Campy-9 drivetrain, and it more or less works. With the addition of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://jtekengineering.com/shiftmate.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shiftmate&lt;/a&gt;, you can mechanically compensate for the differences in cable pull. It's a little fussy getting set up right, but it does work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, (not that you asked, just in case someone else finds this thread in the future), Mavic sells a cassette that fits Shimano splines but has Campy-10 spacing, for use on a Campy drivetrain. I'm not aware of a cassette that does the reverse, but it wouldn't surprise me if one is out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T18:48:27.870" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6727" CreationDate="2011-10-28T19:23:02.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that compact (lower gears) supposedly would imply the person isn't strong enough to spin higher gears, or actually needs that low gears to be able to climb properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I think most people doesn't even know there is a difference on crank chainring sizes, not to mention they could very well prefer one over another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I for one ride internal gear hub, and I have one 46t and one 39t chainring. When I feel fit and wanting to speed up, I install the 46t. When I am more lazy, or more feel more tired for a longer period, I install back the 39t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This scorn stuff, or &quot;weakness&quot; stuff, is all inside people's head, I would say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T19:23:02.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2011-10-28T20:04:21.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute about 6 miles to work with a couple of good hills to get me nice and sweaty and I live in Seattle, so rain is a factor.  I have fenders to keep the worst of the rain off and rain gear, but I wish I had booties.  For cleaning up for work, I get the face wipes at Costco and clean up in the bathroom.  They don't smell strongly and aren't &quot;girly&quot; and aren't expensive.  My work is fairly casual. I keep a couple pairs of shoes at work and some pants.  I usually wear the shirt I rode in.  I trade out the pants as needed and if I need to dress a little nicer, I will bring something in my bike bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This system works well for me and I don't have to worry about washcloths that get smelly and have to be taken home to wash.  I also take the bus occasionally and try to do most of my porting of laundry and other items then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2585" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T20:04:21.487" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-10-28T20:04:21.487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6742" CreationDate="2011-10-28T20:30:20.143" Score="4" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of answers here about building a fixie specifically, but I'm looking to build up a road bike.  I currently have a Surly Pacer frame and fork, a Richie handlebar and stem, and that's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a series of videos or a website that would help me navigate some of this?  I know I will probably have to have the help of a professional eventually, but I want to learn as much as I can before that.  I plan to go to the swap meet that our cycling club holds every February for used parts, and I want to go in educated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is helpful. I've done some searching around but haven't found anything that looked particularly good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2585" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T16:19:18.773" Title="Building a road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2011-10-28T20:39:22.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I need to brake I want to brake.  The front brake is far more effective than the rear.  Thus, I use the front brake.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never come close to going over the bars due to front braking.  Going downhill, hitting items combined with braking will possibly get you in that situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly this is a function of riding, getting comfortable on the bike and being prepared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the admonition for kids (or anyone) 'not to use the front brake&quot; is stupid and dangerous.  It makes people think they should not use it and in cases where full braking power is needed they either are not able to do so or reluctant and get into trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the front brake.  It is where most/all your stopping power is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T20:39:22.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6734" CreationDate="2011-10-28T21:34:35.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know any videos off the top of my head, however you may wish to consider buying a book instead. Zinn and the art of road bike maintenance. I have the mtb version of it and it is a great resource for everything about bike maintenance and building a frame up into a rideable bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zinncycles.com/book_and_dvd.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.zinncycles.com/book_and_dvd.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T21:34:35.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6727" CreationDate="2011-10-28T22:29:36.937" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Machismo.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compacts came about to alleviate the high gearing of a standard crankset's gearing without inheriting the troubles that come with a triple. Compacts are naturally geared lower than standards. Some people (incorrectly) see lower gearing as a sign of weakness. Some of those same people will serpentine their way up high grade mountain roads because they thought they could push standard gearing but can't. Which gearing you go with is purely a matter of overall strength and riding style. Neither one is the wrong decision in the right situation. I've done races before where in the description it has read &quot;compact gearing highly recommended.&quot; That's a fair warning to heed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-28T22:52:32.803" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T22:52:32.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6724" CreationDate="2011-10-29T01:44:40.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also live in Ottawa, and the last week I've been wearing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/Jerseys/PRD~5017-744/mec-cadence-long-sleeved-jersey-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this MEC Cycling Jersey&lt;/a&gt;, along with another regular jersey and a cotton white T undershirt underneath.  This has been sufficiently warm for my 20 minute commute.  My arms get a bit cold, because they only have 1 layer, so I think I may pick up some arm warmers if it gets too much cooler, but I don't think it's really necessary. Other than that I don't have too many problems keeping myself warm.  I find that using lots of layers really helps to cut the wind, without compromising breath-ability.  As far as other clothing goes I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/PantsTights/PRD~5021-691/mec-roubaix-tights-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Roubaix Tights&lt;/a&gt; which are worth every penny.  Have kept my legs toasty warm, while not making me sweaty, even in the cold (-1 degree C) we had this morning. Like the jacket that @geoffc mentioned, they have different material on the front and back.  The front blocks out the wind, and the back lets your legs breath and lets some of the heat out. Only problem I have is keeping my hands warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T01:44:40.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2011-10-29T03:12:48.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My work has showers, so I pack a fast-dry/ultralight towel (brand is MSR). Think about getting two towels, because the towel doesn't get any real time to dry while at work so I alternate each day.  The towels aren't as soft as cotton, but dry faster &amp;amp; are much lighter.  Still, I try to remove as much water from me before using the towel because of how long it sits in my bag.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the local pharmacy/convenience store for &quot;trial&quot; or &quot;travel&quot; size shampoo/soap containers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &quot;waterproof&quot; panniers, but have found that wrapping my clothes in a plastic grocery bag was still necessary for the really bad days, even with fenders.  Speaking of fenders, photochromic sunglasses are a good idea because fenders only help with what comes off the wheels.  Between fenders &amp;amp; glasses, I'd choose glasses -- easier to pack, lighter than fenders, can be used for other activities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have booties/overboots, and tend to wear them even if the rain has stopped -- keeps a lot of the mud &amp;amp; muck off my shoes.  They provide some additional heat too on cool days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T03:12:48.593" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-10-29T03:12:48.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6724" CreationDate="2011-10-29T03:24:59.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/PRD~5018-642/mec-derecho-jacket-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Derecho&lt;/a&gt; - the reflective material is awesome, but I ride hard/am a sweater cuz the inside is always wet (15 KM commute, round trip).  Been working with the cuffs &amp;amp; vents to no end...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Haven't had horrible rain to see how it stands up but I have to pull the arms inside out to get it to dry in a reasonable amount of time.  I've since picked up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/Jerseys/PRD~5006-747/defeet-un-d-shurt-long-sleeve-unisex.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DeFeet long sleeve&lt;/a&gt; as a base layer, and together things are better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T03:24:59.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6750" CreationDate="2011-10-29T03:34:42.387" Score="7" ViewCount="4029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up Ti bolts for my [brake] rotors, and am aware of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/ti-prep.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;TiPrep&lt;/a&gt; but wondered what other more commonly found (and likely cheaper) alternatives are there?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scouring the 'Net, I've read about copper anti-seize...  One co-worker who does auto-moto stuff suggested zinc anti-seize?  Loctite in general doesn't appear to be recommended, though they do have a copper based product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastEditorUserId="2735" LastEditDate="2011-10-30T19:36:40.690" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T19:36:40.690" Title="Titanium bolts: Preventing bonding?" Tags="&lt;corrosion&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6734" CreationDate="2011-10-29T05:43:04.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Park Tools are the biggest maker of bicycle specific tools I know and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;repair section&lt;/a&gt; of their website is pretty good and covers a lot of what is in their Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surly themselves have some good info in their &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/info_hole/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spews&lt;/a&gt;. One that may be relevant to you is &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/spew_care_and_feeding_of_your_steel_frame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Care and feeding of your steel frame&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; is another oft quoted resource, but it may not be that easy to find exactly what you're looking for there, or get a good overview. He can be good for some little niggly details though. I'd try the Park repair site first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It definitely pays to have the right tools, but tools can be expensive, particularly for a one-off job. Park aren't the only maker and can sometimes be more expensive, so shop around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other option if you don't want to buy a whole shop full of tools is to look around for a bike co-op. Not sure where you are but there is a famous one in SF &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikekitchen.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Bike Kitchen&lt;/a&gt;, and in my home town there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeclub.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Nunnery&lt;/a&gt;. Usually you can borrow tools, get advice or help, there may be classes and so on. Try a search for Bicycle co-op [your home town].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-10-29T08:41:20.693" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T08:41:20.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6729" CreationDate="2011-10-29T06:32:21.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen it in the other direction - usually from nuetral support, shimano wheels on campy drivetrains and it's servicable if you want to finish a race, but it'll never be completely smooth.  honestly, sell that campy wheel and buy a shimano one on craigslist.  The campy stuff sells for more typically, so you'd probably even come out ahead.  Unless of course you're trying to swap stuff between bikes, which, in general will be problematic with campy + shimano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T06:32:21.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6741" CreationDate="2011-10-29T08:02:26.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copper paste and TiPrep are the same thing. TiPrep is a bicycle specific branding. You can buy copper paste anti-seize at an auto parts store in much larger quantities for a far cheaper price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zinc works, too. It's the same idea, with a different metallic substrate in the paste. It, a different color, which can be beneficial, depending on our frame color. Either copper or zinc, they get all over everything, and are difficult to clean well, but that same property is what makes them useful keeping aluminum and Ti separated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not be necessary to use it if both parts are Ti, but that is an unusual situation (I assume you don't have titanium hub shells), and you will need some kind of grease regardless, so it can't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T08:02:26.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6734" CreationDate="2011-10-29T08:10:53.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two options, first, if you want to really learn to a pro level, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeschool.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;United Bicycle Institute&lt;/a&gt;, or a similar mechanics school. You will have to attend in person, but they are worth it, if you are the kind of person who wants to know everything you can. Usually around $1000-1200 USD for a 2 week course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbinstitute.com/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Barnett's&lt;/a&gt;, which is one of those schools, offered their textbooks for sale, and now also has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbinstitute.com/store?page=shop.product_details&amp;amp;product_id=66&amp;amp;flypage=flypage.tpl&amp;amp;pop=0&amp;amp;vmcchk=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CD version of the Barnett's Manual&lt;/a&gt; with all their data related with hyperlinks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FTR: I went to UBI, and found it helpful. I am not affiliated with any of these companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T08:10:53.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6727" CreationDate="2011-10-29T09:38:52.983" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;While &lt;strong&gt;Machismo&lt;/strong&gt; answers the question asked, the reason why there is that reaction is mainly a lack of understanding about how and why compact cranks exist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you can look at it and say to give us better climbing (easy) gears. But what many people miss is the rear ratio changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The race standard for many years was 53/12. That is, the hardest gear, made up of the largest tooth count in the front, and the smallest in the back, was a 53 tooth front chain ring paired with a 12 tooth rear cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few years back, Shimano started making an 11 tooth rear cog. It was originally intended for pro racers and time trialists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somebody got out the calculator, and realized that with that 11 tooth rear cog now available, you could decrease the size of the front rings, &lt;em&gt;and get the same gear ratio, or slightly faster&lt;/em&gt;. That decreased front ring size allowed better climbing ratios when paired with the large cogs on the cassette, but also maintained the high gear speed racers are used to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone riding a properly setup compact crank, actually is pushing a harder, faster gear than the 53/12 &quot;standard&quot;. That said, if you pair a 53 with the 11 tooth, it will be faster yet, but not often do you find the legs to push that combo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've included gear inch charts for both, so that you can see for yourself how it works out. If you are not aware, gear inches are a comparison to the effective diameter of a direct drive wheel, when gear advantage is accounted for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBvvB.png&quot; alt=&quot;53/12 Gear chart&quot;&gt;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3fIf.png&quot; alt=&quot;50/34 Gear Chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T12:32:18.073" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T12:32:18.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6748" CreationDate="2011-10-29T13:07:13.287" Score="7" ViewCount="50355" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bikes with a huge front wheel and small rear, with the cranks attached directly to the front wheel... What are they called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, it seems they need to be very tall in order for you to achieve a full pedal stroke, so how is one supposed to mount this archaic device?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/06m8k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old Timey Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2769" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-10-29T19:39:57.127" LastActivityDate="2018-03-11T16:26:24.273" Title="What is the name of those Old Timey Bikes?" Tags="&lt;terminology&gt;&lt;history&gt;&lt;penny-farthing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6747" CreationDate="2011-10-29T14:08:15.050" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a &quot;penny-farthing&quot; bike. You mount it by putting a foot on the step above the back wheel, you push off, then climb up it towards the pedals as it moves away. (Like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-Ocy0SPgcM&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; shows.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front wheel was so large for a couple of reasons: Since the pedals were connected directly to the wheel, the bike could go faster if the wheel were larger; and also, a large wheel functioned as suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the safety bicycle was introduced, it had pneumatic tires and drivetrains that allowed for gearing independent of wheel size, so the penny-farthing fell into disuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T14:08:15.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6734" CreationDate="2011-10-29T16:19:18.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of it is just bolting stuff together; if you know what a bike is supposed to look like, it's pretty self-explanatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the areas that aren't self-explanatory, and require some specialized knowledge and/or tools. You'll get more useful information if you ask specific questions about these items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset installation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake adjustment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifter adjustment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom bracket installation. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain installation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette removal (installation is easy - it just screws on - but you then need special tools to remove it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel truing and building. (Definitely not for beginners - but if you just buy new ready-made wheels, you won't have to worry about it.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T16:19:18.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6741" CreationDate="2011-10-29T16:37:53.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You use the anti-seize compounds on bolts where you would normally use grease. For rotor bolts, use an ample amount of blue threadlocker (loc-tite), even on Ti bolts. It acts as a sufficient barrier between the two pieces of metal and prevents oxidation and bonding. I've done this on others' bikes as well as my own with no instances of bonding to report. You don't want your rotor bolts backing out and anti-seize compounds are not suited to prevent that from happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T16:37:53.710" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="321" CreationDate="2011-10-29T16:48:00.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've never tried Boeshield's T-9, I highly recommend it. It's the bike advocate's WD-40. Fairly lightweight penetrating dry lube. It's a good balance of most traits - it goes on clean, is fairly long lasting for being as lightweight as it is, doesn't build up (quickly), and it's very easy to apply if you get the aerosol version. I use it for road and mtb unless I'm riding in mucky conditions. It's also a good lube for squeaks and creaks, sticky shifters, derailleur pivots, etc. Get a can and it'll last you nearly forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T16:48:00.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6747" CreationDate="2011-10-29T17:01:04.290" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple terms for those:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Penny-farthing&lt;/code&gt; (after two coins of different sizes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;High-wheel&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;High-wheeler&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Ordinary&lt;/code&gt; (contrasted to the &quot;safety&quot; bicycle that came after it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bicycle&lt;/code&gt; is what they were called during their heyday&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;velocipede&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;vélocipède&lt;/code&gt; is a term for any human-powered vehicle and would often have been used to refer to them when they were common.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enthusiasts of them tend to call them &quot;High-wheel&quot; or &quot;Ordinary&quot; bicycles, but more people know the &quot;penny-farthing&quot; term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most have a solid rubber tire.  The large spoked wheel and rubber tire smoothed out the ride compared to the small-wheeled steel-tire direct-drive velocipedes that preceded them. A larger wheel gives a higher gear ratio, allowing for higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mounting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That little &quot;bump&quot; on the frame above the rear wheel is probably meant to represent a mounting post.  On one side there's a small post used as a step.  The rider holds the handlebars, steps on the post, kicks off, then puts the other foot onto the pedal and the first foot onto the other pedal. I've seen experienced riders do it and it can be very quick and smooth. It's also possible to push the bike forward, step directly onto one pedal and mount, but that's trickier and less common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;References:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penny-farthing&quot;&gt;Penny-farthing&lt;/a&gt; article at wikipedia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some videos showing mounts and dismount:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2DT96UGCdk&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2DT96UGCdk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZg5qGfJPnA&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZg5qGfJPnA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-Ocy0SPgcM&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-Ocy0SPgcM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAFJWf2XWjw&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAFJWf2XWjw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8v-gHCt24aQ&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8v-gHCt24aQ&lt;/a&gt; (trickier pedal mount)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T17:01:04.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6754" CreationDate="2011-10-29T23:31:06.573" Score="9" ViewCount="20318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been getting flats every 20-30 miles for the last 2 months. This has caused serious inconvenience to me, as bicycle is my preferred mode of transport to work and class. Details of the situation: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hybrid bicycle  (Specialized Globe 2007 -- 5,000 miles ballpark on it)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Only rear wheel is flatting&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rear wheel is 622x19C rim&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire is 700x35, Kenda 700 35-42 inner tube&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the whole rim and spokes, for $60 (I had a lot of broken spokes and the rim was out of alignment badly). However the flats keep coming.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire pressure suggested on the rear wheel is 30-60 PSI &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I run the pressure between 50-60 PSI&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I weigh 212lbs. and I carry up to 30 extra pounds of load (backpack etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The holes in the inner tube are usually single tiny punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I never find anything in the tire like glass or anything&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The tire seems to have been worn very quickly (it seems kind of like a cheap tire). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the tire a possible cause, or is it possible that some misalignment in the hub (Shimano attached to an 8 speed cassette) is just messing things up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is driving me crazy... maybe I should buy a new tire and run the pressure much higher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run the pressure lower?   buy some specialized kind of inner tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really do anything to avoid having to patch flats every other day!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**** THANKS EVERYBODY, I BOUGHT AN ARMADILLO FROM SPECIALIZED... NO FLATS IN 2 WEEKS **** I think the pressure was way too low on the piece of crap tire i had before ... armadillo is solid!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2770" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:37:15.360" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T12:01:16.433" Title="I keep getting flats" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6753" CreationDate="2011-10-30T01:29:57.253" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the holes always on the tread side of the tube?  Do you often go over curbs or other large bumps with the bike?  The possibilities are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you're damaging the tube when you change/patch it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you're running over a lot of thorns/tacks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you're getting &quot;snakebite&quot; flats from running the pressure too low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;someone has it in for you and is &quot;helping&quot; the tire go flat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any event, for that much weight on a road bike 60psi is the minimum you should be running -- I run 90-100 on my 700C-35s.  You should get Kevlar-belted tires -- much more puncture resistant -- and get tires that are rated to run at least 80psi.  And I'm wondering if 35s aren't a hair wide for 19 rims -- that may be contributing to snakebite punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T01:29:57.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6753" CreationDate="2011-10-30T02:36:23.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing I'd check is your rim tape if you cant find anything along the tire itself. Next time you get a flat, when you're taking the tire off, find a common spot along the tire and the tube - for instance, I typically put the tire's logo next to the valve. This way, you can narrow down the area of where to look for trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2469" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T02:36:23.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6753" CreationDate="2011-10-30T04:04:05.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible there's something stuck in your tyre that you can't find but when riding it is puncturing the tube. I've had the same situation and replacing the tyre completely fixed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to gather some evidence you can check if all the flats are happening in the same place relative to the tyre position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T04:04:05.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-30T05:10:39.997" Score="4" ViewCount="2926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to the Salvation Army today to find an old Western Flyer bike for $20. Being the college student I am, I couldn't resist such a deal. So far my roommate and I are getting it fixed up and it's in good condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I could get an actual age for it, and what the initial cost may have been back in the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike specs: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 speed mens bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26in tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drop handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shifters say &quot;Shimano 333&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear derailleur is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/Shimano_Lark_black_derailleur_%281st_style%29.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1967 Black Lark&lt;/a&gt;, and says &quot;Shimano Lark.&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any information on this bike, or know where I can get more? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2772" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-19T17:41:26.653" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T05:35:27.653" Title="I just got a western flyer bike... want some background information?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6753" CreationDate="2011-10-30T14:48:36.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started with 700x32 Continental Contact tires for commuting (I weigh 165 lb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept them inflated but I got 3 flats in the first 6 months / 3000 miles: all (perhaps unusually) on the front wheel. The first was a roofing nail through the tire; the second was a shard of glass, and again the next day when they hadn't taken the shard glass out of the tire before putting in a new tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced those tires with Schwalbe Marathon Plus, and don't expect more punctures. I inflate them to 85 psi, once or twice a week, and ride two hours / weekday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T14:48:36.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6724" CreationDate="2011-10-30T14:59:48.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear a Gore-Tex jacket (which I bought from MEC a decade ago, not cycling-specific). It has a zip and keeps my core dry and warm, e.g. for an hour of cycling in a few mm / hour. If it's very heavy rain, then I'll be soaked, but still warmish (it remains wind-proof).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A layer or two of cotton and/or poly and/or wool between my skin and the jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It matters how big/tight the jacket is: because of e.g. ventilation in the sleeves, and what else you're wearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy a new one, but I'd want to try it on first for size and feel and fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's raining really hard I might cycle more slowly (and so be making less body heat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling and above zero, you shouldn't get too cold IMO if you keep pumping. Two pairs of thin socks seem much warmer than one (I think that one is breathable and two make an insulating layer), and warm gloves: for example on a dry +4C night in Toronto last week I wore cotton shorts, one or two jerseys (a zip on the outer one), bare arms (short or rolled up sleeves) and legs, and wool gloves. I stayed off my maximum exertion, to reduce sweat: and I noticed that downhill runs are colder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My non-cycling specific jacket lacks features you might find in a cycling-specific one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Pack light&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vented&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visible (mine's black)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long tail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forwardable shoulders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it goes below zero then you don't need to worry about rain anymore (even if snow accumulates on a jacket, it can brush off). I forget (I'll be reminded soon enough), but I think that winter riding is a matter of adjusting the venting in your dry clothes in order to stay dry and warm but not hot. I also use my Gore-Tex in the -3C to +3C range, because it's wind- and weather-proof, and vary the insulation inside depending on my exertion. For colder (i.e. sub-zero) I have a quilted jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a down-filled winter coat too: but that's probably too warm for cycling at any speed except slowly; and I don't have ice tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gore-Tex is, by the way, a thin membrane inside the jacket. So one &#xA;Gore-Tex jacket will vary a lot from another (the Gore-Tex may be the same but the whole of the rest of the jackets different).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-10-30T19:51:24.040" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T19:51:24.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-30T19:48:54.857" Score="1" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an old bike and got the brakes replaced. My front brakes are working as expected and my rear brakes are not. I am squeezing my brake lever which has a lot of resistance, but isn't really tightening my brakes. My brakes are moving a little bit but the line flexes a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brakes are properly installed and the line on that end is attached properly. Any ideas what the issue could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2772" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T13:44:44.047" Title="Is my brake line bad?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6760" CreationDate="2011-10-30T20:11:54.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description the brake cable (or the rear caliper) may be rusted up.  (Although, if you &quot;got the brakes replaced&quot; whoever did that should have checked brake operation and lubed the cable and caliper if necessary.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observe the rear caliper as you squeeze the handle -- gentle motion on the handle should result in smooth closing of the caliper, and you shouldn't feel any significant resistance in the brake lever until the caliper is closed against the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that there's a lot of stretch in the rear brake cable (because it's so much longer than the front), so once the caliper is closed against the rim the cable will continue to stretch as you squeeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T20:11:54.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6753" CreationDate="2011-10-30T21:14:56.603" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't directly answer the question (you've gotten some good advice in this thread already), but a trick worth learning is to always mount your tire with the manufacturer's label (or some visual landmark) in line with the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, when you find the puncture in your innertube, you can work back to where the tire was punctured (assuming the puncture is on the tire side, not the rim side). Sometimes there's a tiny chip of glass or tire cord embedded in the tire carcass—it can be hard to find even if you know where to look, but it's impossible if you don't, and as long as it's in there, it can keep causing flats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T21:14:56.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6727" CreationDate="2011-10-31T04:00:53.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, a combination of maschisimo and most importantly a sad case of &quot;It's not what the pros do&quot;.  Yes, you'll never see a pro racer on a compact, and rarely one on aluminum wheels at that, but somehow a lot of guys love to hate it.  Despite the fact that as the gearing post about mentions, you're rarely even in gears that make a difference in all but an out and out sprint.  Funny thing though, show up to a group ride and someone may laugh at a compact, yet show up with cyclocross gearing (like a 46/38) and suddenly you're he-man?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T04:00:53.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6724" CreationDate="2011-10-31T04:06:19.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's really quite a personal decision, to be honest.  What works for me may not work for you.  I ride year round and on many rides, my friends look at me like I'm crazy for wearing so little.  Yet, I am burning up in even that sometimes.  The single best thing you can do for yourself is get clothing that is somewhat modular in nature.  For instance, having a decent weight short sleeve jersey, a decent weight set of bibs, a cycling vest, and knee and arm warmers can suit you from a range of summer heat all the way to all but the coldest days (excluding of course precipitation, which is a whole other discussion).  The great thing about that setup is unless you're otherwise burdened, there's zero reason you can't stuff a vest in one jersey pocket, and arm warmers and knee warmers in another, and still have one for your phone, keys, and wallet.  I did a 100 mile trip last year that started off at 40 degrees F and ended at nearly 80.  I got uncomfortably warm twice, and each time took off another piece, and wasn't encumbered the entire ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T04:06:19.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6760" CreationDate="2011-10-31T13:44:44.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you feel resistence but the caliper is not moving, I almost bet the problem is inside the cable housing, most probably dirty/rusty, bent or frayed cable. I would recommend the following diagnostic procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detach the front end of the brake cable from the lever (most levers allow you to do so). Grab the cable &quot;head&quot; with one hand, and the housing with the other, and try to move the cable inside and outside the housing. You should feel the cable running almost free inside the housing, and the cable exiting from the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to distinguish between a single long cable housing from the lever to the brake, and many short stretches of housing, so as to test each stretch independently. If that is the case, you can free the housing from the frame braze-ons (allowed on most frames nowadays), and verify that the cable runs free inside all of them. If not, you found your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to check for the curved metal part if it happens to be a V-Brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T13:44:44.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5450" CreationDate="2011-10-31T13:52:30.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did it long ago on my fixie to improve brake performance and id worked like a charm: longer braking surface, perfectly aligned, high performance compound (gray Kool-Stops for V-Brakes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would never go back to those tiny crappy pads that came with the bike (generic low-quality side-pull pads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am riding the bike a lot and had absolutely no problems concerning brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T13:52:30.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6724" CreationDate="2011-10-31T17:31:27.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/MensClothing/OutdoorAthletic/LongSleevedJackets/PRD~5020-552/mec-tace-jacket-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MEC Tace&lt;/a&gt; running jacket in conjunction with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003O2TKOS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sugoi Midzero Zip&lt;/a&gt; in Vancouver at temperatures down to about +3C without major issues. It does get a bit colder as you get closer to freezing though, so it may not completely fit your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing I like about the Tace is that it's very lightweight and vents very well while being water resistant. I have the bright red one and find it quite visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="210" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T17:31:27.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6753" CreationDate="2011-10-31T17:50:27.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By your description, specifically the holes being consistently just tiny punctures, probably you are having a problem with thorns or, most likely, tire wires (the metal scrap that damaged truck tires use to leave around.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very important, in order to detect the cause and avoid repeated punctures, to examine carefully, with the bare fingertips, all the inner part of the tire to find sharp stuff stuck in the tire. I do this all the time and never got hurt. As others mentioned, check if the punctures are in the &quot;inner (rim)&quot; or &quot;outer (tire)&quot; side of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live near a park with thorny trees, and riding there is a problem, since the thorns tend to puncture the tires easily. Sometimes they get stuck in the tire, so you can find the culprit, but sometimes they do not, so the mistery might remain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the road, by far the culprits are the truck-tire-metal-scrap stuff (much more than glass, in my experience), but these get usually trapped in the bike tires, sometimes deceitfully. You have to look carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays there are a lot of tire brands with puncture protection embedded in the thread, like Schwalbe, Continental, Maxxis and Specialized that I remember. Also, the rubber in these tires is of better quality. They pay themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to use protective tape (Mr. Tuff and the like) inside the tires. They are relatively expensive, but pay themselves in tubes and time you won't waste. For skinnier tires, this is the best option I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T17:50:27.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6771" CreationDate="2011-11-01T09:18:36.937" Score="4" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best downhill safe fall if you're getting a lot of speed wobble, or you're on a really rocky course and lose control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed a lot of people try to slide the bike down to its side, but that isn't always possible.  When it's not possible to do that, should the bicycler try to pop a wheelie and go to his back?  Jump up and start running, and then slide on his nostrils?  Roll?  Log roll?  I've seen so many different falls, and I've always improvised.  I'm of the belief that you have to know how to fall before you do any sport, though, and I don't feel right not having researched bicycling safe falls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2778" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T17:12:32.080" Title="Speed wobble safe fall?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6769" CreationDate="2011-11-01T09:27:30.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option is to have a bike that doesn't wobble at speed. On a road bike, there are many bikes which are stable at upwards of 60 mph, and on an MTB, it should be similarly stable, although it is unlikely you will ever ride it at that speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed wobble is caused by an excessive amount of movement between the rider interface, which is in this case the handlebar, and the wheel. That movement can be in the bar/stem, headset, fork, or wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a sign of a poorly spec'd bike at best, and possibly of a poorly designed frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Training for methods of falling safely is not a bad idea, as at some point you're pretty much guaranteed to fall, but avoiding falls by riding safe equipment is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoiding impact with your head or spine are the priorities in a crash. For that reason, sliding the bike out is our best option, however painful it might be. Looping out a wheelie is not a good option unless you're confident of staying on your feet, and you can't be confident enough to risk that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going over the bars is a movie stunt that isn't likely to end before ou plant your face in the ground. Repeat, head contact bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no safe way to crash. Ride safe equipment, and avoid crashing where possible, and be ready to suffer if you can't avoid the crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T09:27:30.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6769" CreationDate="2011-11-01T13:28:23.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Between BMX and mountain bikes I've fallen quite a bit over the years.  If you're getting bad speed wobbles then there is something not right with your bike.  I've never seen anyone get speed wobbles on a rocky course.  If you're going fast enough on a rocky course that this is a risk you should be wearing at a bare minimum a &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.foxhead.com/store/products/Helmets/detail/Rampage-DH-Helmet/17025/cat20168;jsessionid=7379D38AAE67B7EA823BED86482D1F09?categoryNavIds=cat20008%3acat20134&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;full-face helmet&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sixsixone.com/Catalog_661Bike.aspx?id=7a5a3f65-751b-4c0b-a519-ba1587bf7a4f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shoulder guards&lt;/a&gt; wouldn't be a bad idea either as would &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.foxhead.com/store/products/Guards/detail/Launch-Knee-Shin/6912/cat60004?categoryNavIds=cat20008%3acat20134&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shin/knee combos&lt;/a&gt; and elbow pads.  Get a helmet, get safety gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst crashes I've seen have always been when the person doesn't see it coming, and you're probably not going to see it coming.  Popping a wheelie and landing on your back is known as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQVaGqqUPyk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;looping out&lt;/a&gt;.  Even if you land on your feet, at speed you're going to mess yourself up anyway.  Don't do it.  I might try locking up my back brakes and skidding sideways, but that's still really sketchy and a desperate measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to crashing there really isn't definitive answer, and you really must use your best judgement.  You want to stay loose and judge the situation in that split second before impact.  Screw the bike, save yourself.  It's better to get road rash than to hit a semi/boulder/tree.  Be aware of the worst hazards and TRY to choose the lesser of two injuries.  Remember that if you're going fast enough that speed wobble is an issue, then losing control of your bike is one of the worst things that could happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2596" LastEditorUserId="2596" LastEditDate="2011-11-03T17:12:32.080" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T17:12:32.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6777" CreationDate="2011-11-01T16:35:36.800" Score="5" ViewCount="25870" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first bike was a 1976 Raleigh Strika. It was brilliant and was distinguished by having only a front brake lever. To get the rear wheel to stop one simply back-pedalled. This was a v. efficient way of stopping and had the bonus of making your bike skid in a most excellent way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a simple &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/unGpbf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;8-speed hybrid mountain/road bike&lt;/a&gt; now  and was wondering if anyone knew if there was any way of modding it to replicate the behaviour of my beloved Strika. I guess I &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; lose my gears after such an alteration, but I can live with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1617" LastEditorUserId="1617" LastEditDate="2011-11-01T16:58:07.723" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T17:52:30.090" Title="How to set up bike so that back-pedalling stops the rear wheel?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6772" CreationDate="2011-11-01T16:50:08.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called a coaster brake. To install one of these, you'd need to replace the rear hub, and remove the existing rear brakes, which sometimes means replacing the rear wheel, and there may be other complications. I recommend retaining your current front brake as a backup; if the chain snaps, you lose your rear brake. (That's happened to me exactly once over the years, and that bike had handbrakes, not a coaster brake.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Shimano makes an internal hub with seven speeds and a coaster brake, I'm not sure if their 8-speed hub has one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell us more about your current bike? Does it currently have gears in an &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1728#1728&quot;&gt;internal hub&lt;/a&gt; on the rear wheel, or is the gearing via conventional derailer gears? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T16:50:08.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6776" CreationDate="2011-11-01T17:09:08.907" Score="14" ViewCount="22806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started to get pins and needles in my little finger and the finger next to it some times after riding for over an hour. The roads are quite rough and vibrate my handle bars quite a lot. I also wake up some mornings with tingley fingers. I think that might be related to cycling, but it could also be that my fingers spend a lot of time typing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that I should be worried about and is there anything I can do to prevent it happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastEditorUserId="2568" LastEditDate="2011-11-03T10:37:02.297" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T14:31:21.800" Title="Pins and needles in my fingers after long rides" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2011-11-01T17:51:07.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pins and needles are felt when blood flow is restored to an area. If this is only from riding, you may be putting too much weight on your hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, all of your weight would be borne by your legs, but in the real world, people put some weight on their saddle and lean on their hands. Padded cycling gloves can help alleviate this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the long-term, you may want to get a proper fitting for your bike. Look at factors like saddle height, reach (the distance from saddle to handlebars), bar height, and saddle angle. Once you can distribute your weight in various places, you may find that hand pain/tingling is reduced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this related to typing, you'll want to make your computer setup more ergonomic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to see a physician about this; hand problems can become quite serious over time. I go to one that specializes in sports medicine, and he's given me good advice about bike setup, stretching, warming up, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-01T18:19:33.390" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T18:19:33.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2011-11-01T18:14:03.387" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Talk to a doctor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms of waking up with tingly fingers make this sound consistent with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0001469/&quot;&gt;carpal tunnel syndrome&lt;/a&gt; to my non-doctor opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, as I understand it, a little bit of that now and then isn't a problem, but too much over time causes damage which can be permanent and cause some major hand problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a bundle of nerves and tendons that run through a narrow channel in your wrist. Pressure on that area, or using the tendons with the wrist in a non-neutral position can, over time cause problems. That can mean biking and typing are causing you trouble. Pressure on these nerves will tend to cause numbness and tingling in the thumb, index, middle and part of your ring finger. Vibration of the hands (such as from rough ground) could be the main problem instead of pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the ulnar nerve on the &quot;pinky&quot; side of your hand that can have the same kind of problems.  Pressure on this nerve (or stretching/hyperextension) will tend to cause numbness and tingling in the pinky finger and part of your ring finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diagnosing exactly which problem you have is best done by a doctor, not the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you talk to your doctor and they suggest avoiding the hand pressure your bike is causing, some things to help avoid these problems on your bike include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a professional bike fitting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't hold the bars tightly, hold them loosely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gloves with padding matching the pads of your palm (no pad on central channel, that will make things worse).  Sadly many gloves aren't really designed to help, so you have to know what to look for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some bar grips are designed to help&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing how you ride to put less pressure on your hand (use core muscles to hold body up)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise handlebars and/or move them closer to you so that you have less pressure on your hands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebar ends to give more hand positions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different style handlebars (new bike with drop bars?) for more hand positions, preferably with main position not putting pressure in center of palm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vary your hand positions more often.  If you have bars that allow multiple hand positions, use them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take breaks during your ride.  Even just taking your hands off the bars for a minute at a stop light could help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There may be stretches you can do during such breaks to help&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal harder/faster. If you pedal hard enough, you'll find yourself pulling your body down with the handlebars instead of pressing down on your hands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run your tires at a lower pressure. Replace with fatter tires if necessary. This should help reduce road vibration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some references:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hughston.com/hha/a_15_3_2.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.hughston.com/hha/a_15_3_2.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.webmd.com/pain-management/carpal-tunnel/carpal-tunnel-syndrome-topic-overview&quot;&gt;http://www.webmd.com/pain-management/carpal-tunnel/carpal-tunnel-syndrome-topic-overview&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ninds.nih.gov/disorders/carpal_tunnel/detail_carpal_tunnel.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.ninds.nih.gov/disorders/carpal_tunnel/detail_carpal_tunnel.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0001469/&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0001469/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mackinacislandnews.com/news/2007-06-30/news/014.html&quot;&gt;http://www.mackinacislandnews.com/news/2007-06-30/news/014.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-11-02T18:46:05.227" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T18:46:05.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6772" CreationDate="2011-11-01T19:58:55.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it's not really feasible to convert that particular bicycle to use a coaster brake.  That bicycle has &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#vertical&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vertical dropouts&lt;/a&gt;, which means that the chain is kept taut using a derailleur or other spring-based &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/singlespeed.html#tensioners&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain tensioner&lt;/a&gt;.  A chain tensioner only applies force opposing the forward direction, however, so when you attempt to pedal backwards to actuate the coaster brake you'll only end up bending the tensioner back around and dropping the chain rather than stopping.  (Without a tensioner of some sort it's extremely difficult to set the drivetrain up with the correct amount of slack; sometimes involving chain half-links and filing the dropout can get you close but there are no guarantees.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your preferences, you can get up to 9 speeds with a coaster brake using the SRAM i9 internal hub; cheaper options also exist for 8-,7-,5-,and 3-speeds.  I personally have a soft spot for the Sturmey Archer 3-speed coaster brake for it's balance of simplicity and a relatively wide (33%) gear spacing, but your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to look for a relatively inexpensive single speed, fixed gear, or already-coaster'd bike to start from.  If it's got horizontal dropouts or track ends you're in business.  Frames purpose-built for coaster brakes will often have a tab brazed onto the non-driveside chainstay for screwing the anti-rotation arm to (lest the brake simply spin the hub backwards instead of stop you) but a p-clamp or hose clamp can be used as an adapter trivially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-11-02T00:17:05.197" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T00:17:05.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2011-11-01T20:52:50.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely to be carpal tunnel, though that's a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A major nerve in the hand, feeding the fingers, runs across the palm, right where one tends to lean on the bars.  Constant pressure on this nerve irritates it and causes the numbness and tingling that cyclists often experience.  I'm not sure how much irritation it takes to cause actual damage, but I suspect in most cases the situation becomes intolerable before serious damage is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, pressure and the constant cramped grip that especially new cyclists tend to use cuts off blood flow in the hand.  There are several (relatively) major blood vessels that run across the palm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution, of course, is to relieve the pressure on the palm.  Padded gloves help, but beyond a modest amount padding can be counter-productive since it spreads the pressure out over a wider area, causing a wider area to be deprived of blood and numbing out more area such that a minor change in hand position doesn't achieve a &quot;fresh&quot; grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once had some special gloves that were really good -- they had &quot;Sorbothane&quot; padding (a sort of rubber), but, more than that, the padding was in the form of narrow ribs, so that they sort of &quot;massaged&quot; the palms as you rode.  But they wore out and I've never found replacements.  (I've often thought someone should make bar grips with similar ribs, but I've never seen anything.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the best solution is to relieve the pressure on your palms by adjusting your riding position.  Raise the handlebar and move it closer to you (more to the rear).  And maybe move your seat forward a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to do, of course, is to change hand positions frequently.  Traditional drop bars give you several good positions for riding, and with straight bars you can get bar extensions to give you alternate positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt; One problem I've noted with bikes these days is that they're built to &quot;look mean&quot; on the sales floor, with the handlebar unrealistically (for most people) low.  And with the threadless headsets raising the bar beyond a half-inch or so is apt to require changing out parts, something people often don't know is even a possibility, even if they aren't reluctant to do it for various emotional and financial (and macho) reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt; I once ran some back-of-the-envelope calculations to see how much pressure the body was placing on the hands, vs blood pressure, and what I worked out is that upper body mass and leg/back strength (which affects how much weight relief the legs offer) are critical factors.  When someone is over roughly 200 pounds with poor strength (which I have due to polio) then it's impossible to spread the weight out enough with padding to keep from cutting off blood flow.  If you're lighter or with better leg/back strength then you're probably wondering what all the fuss is about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-11-03T20:19:18.260" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T20:19:18.260" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-01T22:20:19.117" Score="31" ViewCount="3977" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that the weather's cold, my nose gets plugged up after about a mile and inevitably some runs down my throat and I have to pull over and spit. I feel like stopping all the time is probably confusing to the cars behind me and seek a better solution. What's the best (safest?) way to deal with this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2050" LastActivityDate="2020-11-22T17:13:24.963" Title="Runny nose while biking" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6779" CreationDate="2011-11-01T23:32:34.643" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no great way.  The main problem is that inhaled cold air causes an automatic reaction in the nasal passages to create more mucous.  And to a degree simply having cold air blowing against the face around the sinuses creates the problem.  Some people will experience this worse than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try using some sort of scarf or maybe a surgical mask over your nose to sort of warm the air going in.  The problem with this, of course, is that if your nose is running you can't wipe it without removing the scarf/mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can use various drugs (OTC decongestants and nasal sprays) to try to control it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T23:32:34.643" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6779" CreationDate="2011-11-02T00:07:14.070" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, this probably sounds gross and I'm kind of reluctant to say it, but I'm able to blow the snot out of my nose without hitting myself or my bike.  I try to only do it when there's no one around, but occasionally that isn't possible.  Basically, I turn my head so my nostrils are towards the ground and exhale forcibly through my nose.  I'm not sure it will work for everyone--perhaps I have remarkably straight nasal passages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2585" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T00:07:14.070" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6779" CreationDate="2011-11-02T01:51:39.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeesh! Why stop? Spit down and to the side. Keep going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main thing is to avoid spitting on the cyclist(s) behind you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't know why this is a problem. Common sense usually works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 Common Sense Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't spit or blow snot on the folks behind you. (Such as a pace line or other commuters)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid spitting or blowing snot on public places such as sidewalks or bike paths, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;On to peeing, I guess...Out in the country, find a tree and go behind it...in the city, find a bathroom at Starbucks or whatnot..&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-11-08T09:14:55.040" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T09:14:55.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2011-11-02T03:02:18.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard that people's hands can hurt or become numb from the vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a suspensionless Alu frame on cracked city streets for 2 hours/day at 20 km/h average, on a 'hybrid' bike with flat handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bars have thin rubber. I always wear cycling gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gloves are fingerless (made by Giro), have a breathable back, are washable, and are padded at the heel and ball of the palm where I grip the handle bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm no anatomist or doctor but IMO &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giro.com/us_en/products/cycling-gloves/bravo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the padding (illustrated)&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/25vzu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/25vzu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;illustration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giro.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/450x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/g/i/giro_bravo_g_blkyllw_pair.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;giro.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;covers the superficial ulnar, and leaves a gap at the base, at the centre of the inside wrist, between the ball of the thumb and the edge of the hand, where it doesn't press on the median nerve, but rather raises it away from the bars instead of my gripping with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My previous gloves had a woven mesh back, goatskin palms and foam rubber sewn into the palm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought new tires, Marathon Plus. They're heavy and improve the suspension a lot. They are much more comfortable at high speed (measuring by the shock I feel in my hands) than my previous thinner tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T21:02:24.743" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T21:02:24.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6787" CreationDate="2011-11-02T03:24:07.093" Score="10" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;It happened when I &quot;stepped on it&quot; (on an empty residential street). It left the chain on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tool(s) and parts should I have had with me, to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was replaced (new) two months ago, since when they also had the back wheel off to replace its brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I lubed it recently I noticed that one of the links seemed loose, but I didn't want to take the time to take it back to the LBS (which is now on reduced less convenient winter hours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-11-02T04:12:07.283" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T13:58:53.407" Title="What am I supposed to do when my chain falls off?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6790" CreationDate="2011-11-02T04:10:44.757" Score="16" ViewCount="30862" Body="&lt;p&gt;After &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/6784/1097&quot;&gt;my chain has broken&lt;/a&gt; what should I know about buying and maintaining a new chain (apart from lubing it and replacing when it 'stretches')? Do you keep a spare chain, or a spare link?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a commuter bike (a Kona Dr Dew) with Shimano dérailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first chain was replaced &quot;worn to at least 100%&quot; after the first 6 months/5000 km. The cassette seems OK and not worn. This was the second chain, replaced two months ago. I noticed occasional slipping gears but don't know whether that was the chain, or the indexing of the gear shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain (the replacement chain, which broke) is an SRAM PC-951 which Google says is &quot;our most economical chain&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update - it wasn't the removable SRAM link, it was one of the factory links that broke. Because it had been skipping and the previous chain worn more than 100%, I asked to replace the chain and the cassette (even though he agreed that the cassette didn't look really worn, he said 5000 km is too far for a chain); and got a chain stretch measuring tool, if replacing the chain every 6 months isn't often enough. Anyway it's tight again now. The new chain is a more expensive SRAM PC-991 (which cost more than the new SRAM 950 cassette). The original parts I think were all Shimano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2018-06-15T02:10:16.090" Title="How to prevent my chain from breaking?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6779" CreationDate="2011-11-02T04:21:56.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep your mouth closed when you breathe. Holding the tongue against the roof of the mouth can make it easier to keep those passages warm and humid while you breathe through your nose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T04:21:56.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6784" CreationDate="2011-11-02T04:36:43.737" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;chain tool&lt;/strong&gt; (aka &quot;chain breaker&quot;) for sure. Many multi-tools include one. Depending on the chain, also a quick link (they come by many names) or special pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic process is use the chain tool to remove a pin or two so that the mangled chain bits can be removed, then reassemble to a shorter chain. Try to leave a pin still in one outer plate; it's a lot easier. When you reassemble it, do it on the bike threaded through all the derailer bits properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this roadside before. Took me 5-10 minutes, some cursing, a little fiddling with the tool, and ended with very greasy hands. A few of those minutes were waiting for a crosswalk signal so I could retrieve the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to avoid the big/big gear combo or even your big chainring entirely, until you've replaced the chain. And replace the chain right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T04:36:43.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2011-11-02T10:18:06.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I am doing the opposite: wearing a chain out until it snaps. This is on a 'beercycle' bike that is kept indoors so rust is not a problem. What I know from the experiment is that, so long as the join link is properly assembled and the chain kept rust free (although not extensively oiled) you can go many thousands of miles past the 'stretch' stage even if the sprockets end up as a 'box of neutrals' (to use an automotive term) with only selected gears actually working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in summary, make sure the link is assembled and the chain is rust-free. Oil really is an optional extra, as half the bikes on the road demonstrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T10:18:06.150" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6784" CreationDate="2011-11-02T11:08:32.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a chain tool and some spare links.  I keep a few short pieces of old chains in a plastic bag, and I also (now that I use SRAM chains) keep several old &quot;repair links&quot; in the bag.  If you don't have the repair links, when you split the old chain (into 3-5 link bits) drive the pins not quite all the way out on both ends, so that both ends are able to be reconnected with the chain tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also helpful to have a short piece of wire to hold the ends of the chain together while you join them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Rubber gloves are for wusses. ;) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T11:08:32.163" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2011-11-02T11:18:30.403" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;To keep your chain from breaking, keep the derailers properly aligned, ease off of pedaling when you shift, and don't &quot;stomp&quot; on the chain when it's not fully in gear.  (Folks who don't go back to the non-indexed days probably never got into the habit of coasting while shifting, but it wouldn't be a bad thing to practice a bit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broken chains are exceedingly rare, and are almost always the result of putting load on the chain when it's not fully in gear.  The other likely source of damage is having sprockets that are so badly hooked that the chain gets sucked into a knot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update -- 6/14/18&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An observation I made this week, working on a bike for Christmas Anonymous:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike (a 26&quot; full susp BSO) came in with a mangled chain, a mangled rear wheel (half the spokes were broken), and a broken rear derailer.  The chain had actually been twisted 90 degrees at one point (amazing that it &lt;em&gt;didn't&lt;/em&gt; break), something I'd never seen before.  It seemed like the chain had gotten twisted up in the rear cluster perhaps, after the rear wheel had gotten mucked up.  (Perhaps a garage accident -- hard to tell with such things.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I found a new rear wheel, a new rear derailer, and a new chain, and put it all together.  The rear derailer worked fine, once I got it adjusted (involved some cussing), but then as I tried to get the front derailer to work (blasted twist shifters, plus a cable that was routed so that it collected rainwater) I started having trouble with chain suck on the small front ring.  I could see that this chain suck likely caused the chain to knot up and twist, and it was only after that that the garage accident occurred, taking out both wheel and derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the chain suck was consistently on two teeth a one point on the small ring, I was able to use a round file to smooth out the teeth and eliminate the problem.  I'm guessing the teeth had burrs from when the ring was manufactured, and the bike never got used enough to wear them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2018-06-15T02:10:16.090" LastActivityDate="2018-06-15T02:10:16.090" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2011-11-02T11:47:02.167" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whatever it is I do I guess.  I've never had one break.  I don't even worry about stretch.  If it's dry, I oil it, but otherwise I leave well enough alone.  I don't even bother to clean my chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T11:47:02.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2011-11-02T13:35:54.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much weight do you put on your hands while riding?  If you've got a bike that has you leaning forward and putting weight on the hands, you may want to consider a bike with a more upright seating position.  That will cut down on the weight on the hands issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I know what you're talking about.  I spend all day behind a computer too, and if I spend much time on my race bike, I get tingly hands.  If I put most of my miles on my MTB, then I don't get the tingly hand episodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T13:35:54.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2011-11-02T16:33:52.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before anything else, ensure that you are properly securing the master link as this is the most common point of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should replace your cassette when you replace the chain.  The chain and cassette wear fairly evenly.  If one is worn out so is the other, and running a new chain on a worn cassette will wear the chain faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gears are slipping then the cassette may be worn out and/or the derailer(s) are broken and/or in need of adjustment.  The derailer hanger might also be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SRAM pc-951 is an extremely common chain and in the dozens I've put on I haven't seen any snap on their own after such a short period.  It's probably not quality of the chain, and something in your drivetrain is damaged or in dire need of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of points of failure in a drivetrain; go to a shop, a good one will take a quick look for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2596" LastEditorUserId="2596" LastEditDate="2011-11-02T18:20:12.937" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T18:20:12.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6795" CreationDate="2011-11-02T16:49:15.080" Score="17" ViewCount="1186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a saddle bag with a set of bike tools; stuff like alan keys, puncture repair kits,  spanners etc. There's this one tool (well two but they screw together) that I have trouble recognising. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know for sure it's not part of the installation of the saddle bag. It also didn't come with any instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jqPwD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hpo5R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T22:00:23.437" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T04:45:16.343" Title="What is this bike tool?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;multi-tool&gt;&lt;topeak&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6794" CreationDate="2011-11-02T16:58:34.960" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chain_tool&quot;&gt;Chain tool&lt;/a&gt;, the long bit should screw into the back (bottom side in the pic) of the other bit to provide a handle. You can then put an hex key into the twisty bit at the right hand end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1689" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T16:58:34.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6794" CreationDate="2011-11-02T17:56:45.540" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, a chain tool, or &quot;chain breaker&quot;.  They come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should note that a given width chain needs a specific chain tool, so the one you have may not work well with your chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And never just get a chain tool and trust it to work (and be workable by you) without trying it first on some scrap chain of the appropriate size.  In addition to being the wrong size or simply too &quot;cute&quot; to work (often the case with &quot;multi-tool&quot; versions), the punch pin can be worn/cracked to the point that it no longer cleanly presses the chain pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T17:56:45.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6889" CreationDate="2011-11-03T00:53:25.373" Score="2" ViewCount="13913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for sites that sell bike frames online. i find many sites list all things (forks) but stop short with frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best places I have found are:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jensonusa.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open to places that only sell their own brand but more after places which stock many brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking at the low-end of the price range too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also i am located in Australia. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T11:44:54.873" Title="What are some other places to buy MTB frames online?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-09-02T13:23:43.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6797" CreationDate="2011-11-03T01:15:49.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.performancebike.com&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nashbar.com&lt;/a&gt; are two big online bike outfitters.  I don't know that either sells bare frames, but they do sell a wide variety of stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course a number of custom/low volume bike builders sell bare frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mikebentley.com/bike/bikemfg.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a pretty good list of bike &amp;amp; frame manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T01:15:49.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2011-11-03T03:45:26.550" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've snapped a chain twice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once the chain was very heavily worn and it snapped at one of the factory links, the second time it was also heavily worn but it snapped at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.connexchain.com/Connectors/Connex-link/1_309.html&quot;&gt;Connex Link&lt;/a&gt; which I may have re-used (I can't remember if I did or not). Both times I was heavily on the pedals, taking off from the lights, and it is not a pleasant experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this I'd recommend&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=chain+wear+indicator&amp;amp;x=0&amp;amp;y=0&quot;&gt;chain wear indicator&lt;/a&gt;. (Sounds like you have one now) and check the chain regularly and definitely replace it &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; the chain wears out.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Don't re-use master links. Replace them when you replace the chain. Also note that some can be installed the wrong way (The Connex link is like that, make sure it is installed correctly).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. For chains with a connecting pin, don't break the chain in the same spot twice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4. Use a proper bicycle chain lubricant. Things like WD-40 can just dry out and prematurely &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletutor.com/no-wd40-bike-chain/&quot;&gt;wear your chain&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5.  Don't continually break and re-connect the chain. Use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-gang-cleaning-system-cg-2&quot;&gt;chain scrubber&lt;/a&gt; if you want to clean it, rather than breaking the chain too often. Although I've given up on the chain scrubber now, I just wipe the chain down with a rag, lube the chain, then wipe off the excess and ride. Doing this after rain helps keep rust off too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carry a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Tools/SuperChainTool&quot;&gt;compact chain tool&lt;/a&gt; and a Connex connecting link, just in case. But I'm more vigilant about checking my chain wear and replacing the chain now, so I shouldn't need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T03:45:26.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2011-11-03T03:57:31.320" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 pro-tips for not smelling bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One, and this may seem odd, but cool down before you change.  If you can hang out in what you rode in on for like, 15 minutes, you can avoid immediately sweating into the clothes you've just changed into.  For me, I've got a regular morning call so I show up 10 minutes before that, get through the 10 minute conference call and THEN go change.  Even in summer by the time I do I'm no longer creating more sweat.  There's nothing worse than changing your clothes in the bathroom only to notice your back is still sweaty 10 minutes later onto the shirt you carefully rolled up in your pannier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two - and this I think is key, not only should you keep deodorant at work, but put it on before you leave too!  There's a reason they call the stuff &quot;anti-perspirant&quot;.  The aluminum oxide in deodorants actually works.  So put a bit on before you leave, and more after you get there and you shouldn't be offending anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T03:57:31.320" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-03T03:57:31.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2011-11-03T04:20:00.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem - numb/tingling hand after riding for 20min or so. What fixed it for me was to fit &quot;moustache handlebars&quot; to my bike. These are not to everyone's taste, but they worked for me. It's either the multiple hand positions they offer or the fact that, thanks to the curve of the bars, there's much less pressure on the heal of my hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2786" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T04:20:00.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2011-11-03T16:03:20.637" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a physician myself, also a commuter and a guy who works with computers, I would advise the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install foam grips;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise your handlebars;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use wider tires, use lower tire pressures;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Massage your hands often;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install a suspension fork if needed;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improve your workplace as much as you can;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't work more than 50 minutes without stopping;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch your hand position while sleeping (this caused me a lot of problems before I realized it);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't trust medications only to improve your condition - it is a mechanical one which need change of habits;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talk to a doctor at least once, to check for other possible related issues;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch yourself, mind what you do with your hands during the day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think stopping riding is a good solution: it does not even count as a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2019-02-20T14:31:21.800" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T14:31:21.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6797" CreationDate="2011-11-03T16:03:53.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On One are great! They have a USA store open now which might ship to Aus for less (from UK it is 25-70GBP)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://on-one.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://on-one.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.titusti.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://shop.titusti.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2787" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T16:03:53.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6779" CreationDate="2011-11-03T19:49:44.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blow it away out of your nose while riding, to the side;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carry a cloth (handkerchief) to wipe your nose thereafter, so that it doesn't continue to be uncomfortable;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you come to a full stop, clean as much as you can with the two previous manoeuvers, so as to increase mucus-free time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T19:49:44.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2011-11-03T21:08:59.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best answer I've found is the Exustar Stelvio. They have polished leather unventilated uppers. On close inspection they don't quite look dressy enough but they are good from a few feet away. The biggest disadvantage is they aren't sold in this country (USA) but can be ordered from overseas stores like SJSCycles easily (http://www.sjscycles.co.uk).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/exustar-sp705-stelvio-leather-spd-touring-commuter-shoes-black-prod20634/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Exustar SP705 Stelvio Leather SPD Touring/Commuter Shoes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2788" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T21:08:59.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2011-11-03T21:49:05.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW - Here's my experience with a very similar issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symptoms&lt;/strong&gt; -&#xA;Numbness and tingling (pins and needles) in my pinky, ring finger, and palm of my left arm. Also, tingling in the left elbow. A bit extreme since half of my left hand was semi-numb and tingling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diagnosis&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This freaked me out a bit, so I did a doctor visit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The doc did some tests and then referred me to a physical therapist after determining that the issue was ulnar nerve compression. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There were 3 problems discovered during my visits with the physical therapist.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computer ergonomics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sleeping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solutions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cycling, I needed to make adjustments with the seat and handlebars. For the computer ergonomics, which turned out to be the main issue, I had to raise my seat height, lower the monitor, and a few other tweaks. For sleeping, I wound up with my arm wrapped in a towel so that I didn't sleep with my elbow bent. Additionally, I was prescribed several exercises/stretches in order to alleviate the pressure on the ulnar nerve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final thoughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Freiheit said, see a doctor (which apparently you plan to do). The resolution of this type of issue depends on the cause (the cause is not necessarily cycling) and the individual. So, see your doc and get it figured out. My symptoms are far better after making changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I did not include my specific bicycle adjustments since these adjustments are entirely determined by the individual. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lastly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I woke up one morning after a very long ride during the summer with my left arm half numb and tingling. Thought I was having a stroke or heart attack. Nah. Ulnar nerve compression. However, your issue may be different. Good thing to see your doc about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not lack of circulation but this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://orthoinfo.aaos.org/topic.cfm?topic=a00069&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://orthoinfo.aaos.org/topic.cfm?topic=a00069&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-11-04T11:55:25.017" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T11:55:25.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6809" CreationDate="2011-11-03T23:25:50.070" Score="13" ViewCount="16540" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to sheer laziness, my maintenance amounts to an annual trip to the LBS.  After moving, my new LBS suggested that I replace my chain immediately, before it destroys the drive train.  What they didn't mention was that it already had, so I needed a new cassette within a week, because the chain slipped under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next year, they checked the cassette &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; recommending a chain replacement, and it was already getting worn, so I decided to stay with the current chain at least as long as it takes to pay for a new cassette in the chains I'm not purchasing every thousand miles.  At about three thousand miles a year, it shouldn't take all that long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, though, I'm concerned that I might be causing more problems than just cassette wear.  Might I have to replace the chain ring, too?  Am I setting myself up for other potentially expensive problems?  Is the chain likely to break in the middle of a ride within the next year or two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="54" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T11:23:04.997" Title="What harm results from riding with a stretched chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2011-11-03T23:30:31.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about these?  You can make fashionable bike shoes :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dowAF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now with Link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.craftzine.com/archive/2011/09/how-to_high-heeled_clipless_bi.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://blog.craftzine.com/archive/2011/09/how-to_high-heeled_clipless_bi.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2585" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T23:30:31.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6807" CreationDate="2011-11-03T23:41:41.943" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is always a controversial topic, with some people arguing on both sides, but in my opinion you should replace your chain when it reaches the official &quot;worn&quot; state (as indicated by a chain stretch gauge).  If you let the chain go the sprockets develop a &quot;hook&quot; and will begin &quot;sucking&quot; the chain.  In addition, shifting performance will suffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a chain is replaced when it first reaches &quot;worn&quot; status, without letting it go too long, the sprockets will not have taken a &quot;set&quot; to the stretched chain and reasonably good drivetrain performance will be retained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing to replace a worn chain results in more cluster wear, more chainring wear, and an increased risk of both shifting difficulty and thrown/broken chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will of course eventually need to replace your cluster and chainrings.  My experience is that you need a new cluster about every five chains, and new chainrings about every two clusters.  Generally when cluster/chainring wear reaches a critical point things go to pot pretty rapidly in terms of shifting problems, slipping, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T23:41:41.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6807" CreationDate="2011-11-04T11:49:03.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The worst problem I face when waiting too long to replace a chain is that a new chain will skip badly over the worn sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, it has a lot to do with the kind of terrain you ride (on- vs. off-road), the amount of rain/mud/snow you take, and if your have full fenders or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do mountain bike, 500 miles is sometimes enough to need a chain replacement. 1500 miles will for sure damage your sprockets permanently.&#xA;Now if you ride only asphalt, use full fenders, and take proper care on cleaning and lubing, you might go over 3000 miles without much problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with a previous answer, it takes three to five chains to need a cluster replacement if you care well, but the chainrings use to last much longer to me than two clusters. I think it is because, when you install a new chain, the wear pattern on the teeth (both the sprockets and the chainrings) tend to get back to normal (wear occurs at the base of the teeth, instead of their tops). Since the rings wear much less than the sprockets, they go back to normal more easily, and have a much lesser tendency to skip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth mentioning that I had never experienced a chain braking because it was worn out, so the problem is not dangerous, just expensive (because you have to replace two or three parts instead of one), not to mention the bad ride quality due to worn-out drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T11:49:03.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6814" CreationDate="2011-11-04T14:44:08.183" Score="6" ViewCount="5787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished building a single speed bike and I think my chain line might be a little off.  Is there a tool or trick to sighting the chain line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2528" LastActivityDate="2012-12-22T22:24:47.657" Title="How to Sight a Chain Line" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6811" CreationDate="2011-11-04T17:37:56.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always just eyed up the alignment on single speeds.  Look at the chain from behind and above.  As with anything it took some practice to do right.  If the alignment is too far off it will be noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2596" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T17:37:56.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6811" CreationDate="2011-11-04T18:45:15.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a straight ruler (a small flat metal one is easiest), measure from the centerline of the rear hub to the center of the chain around the cog.  Then measure from the center of the seat tube to the center of the chain around the chainring.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Voila, chainline measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T18:45:15.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6811" CreationDate="2011-11-04T19:21:54.947" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to &quot;sight&quot; this fairly well.  Get close to the front sprocket and align your eye such that you're just looking down one side of the front sprocket towards the rear.  Moving your head back and forth sideways very slightly the same side of the rear sprocket should flicker into and out of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can use a long metal ruler, placed against the side of the sprockets.  With perfect alignment (which isn't really necessary) the ruler will fit flat against both sprockets simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T19:21:54.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2011-11-05T01:17:52.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Above all else, if you've broken multiple chains in a short period of time, it might be your riding style.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarely does a chain break in a straight line, being pulled.  The energy is fairly dispersed across the links on the top of the chain while pedaling normally, and even under all out efforts, this is the case.  When it is NOT the case is when you are shifting, or using extreme gear combinations like big front big back or little front little back.  While shifting, the force exerted is temporarily focused to a few links - especially as the chain moves from one cog to another.  In extreme &quot;cross chaining&quot; (extreme gear combinations mentioned above), the force is sometimes unevenly distributed to the links at extreme bending angles left to right, a recipe for snapping chains.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a little hard to describe but when an experienced rider shifts under hard effort (hill climbing, sprinting) they will either intentionally or habitually &quot;let up&quot; on the pedals during the shift.  This has two effects, the first being lack of snapping chains, the second being more responsive shifting.  The best shifting setups, adjusted perfectly, don't shift awesome under load, but letting up a bit always helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2760" LastActivityDate="2011-11-05T01:17:52.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6818" CreationDate="2011-11-05T03:41:37.277" Score="8" ViewCount="3965" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute about 3600 miles a year and I am able to keep my gears adjusted pretty well. I do find that I get a lot of grime from rainy, muddy conditions, and I think I might be replacing my shift cables and housing more frequently than I should, probably twice a year. Would squirting some soapy water thru the housing and letting it dry before adding light oil to the cable housing increase lifetime, or is this not worth the effort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T01:31:52.993" Title="Cleaning Cable Housing?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6817" CreationDate="2011-11-05T11:40:27.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sad to say, not worth the effort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you are a bulk user of cable outer then you can invest in a big reel of the stuff (obviously genuine Shimano) and some Shimano cable cutters (TL-CT-10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broken link: &lt;strike&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madison.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=6Y1+9801&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.madison.co.uk/productinfo.aspx?catref=6Y1+9801&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible replacements&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=Shimano+cable+cutters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=Shimano+cable+cutters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/professional-cable-and-housing-cutter-cn-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/professional-cable-and-housing-cutter-cn-10&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=shimano+outer+gear+cable&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=shimano+outer+gear+cable&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, order by Madison part code from your LBS and get the brake cable outers whilst you are at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inners are easy to clean up, the outer liner erodes over time and no amount of blowing soapy water through shifts the detritus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That part is the 'XTR' version, there is also a cheaper one that should work fine.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/deXL5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are good, just so long as you don't cut mudguard stays with them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TI4cr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-07T01:31:52.993" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T01:31:52.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6817" CreationDate="2011-11-05T11:44:20.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd guess that running soapy water through the housing would cause it to corrode faster, since you'd never be able to rinse it out well.  (Very) light oiling will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-05T11:44:20.030" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2011-11-05T16:45:32.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the other answers deal with old, worn chains. I'd like to talk about another angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only had it happen once, while I was stomping up a really steep hill. It was a brand new 9-speed SRAM chain. It snapped at a link that I took apart and reassembled while installing it; I guess that I didn't put the pin in correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somebody told me that this kind of mistake is easy to make with the modern narrow chains - the plates are so thin, that there's very little room for error when installing the pin. And for this reason, you should never try to reassemble the links; when installing the chain, just keep removing links until it's the right length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-11-05T16:45:32.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6691" CreationDate="2011-11-05T19:08:09.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you're re-injuring, you have some technique problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;number one knee strain is gear mashing, known as pushing too high a gear: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://adventure.howstuffworks.com/outdoor-activities/triathlons/training/mashing-vs-spinning.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://adventure.howstuffworks.com/outdoor-activities/triathlons/training/mashing-vs-spinning.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;see also sheldonbrown.com/fixed-knees.html&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;work on pedaling form, know as cadence and spinning, so as not to strain your knees: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cptips.com/tech.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cptips.com/tech.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;turn your bike into a trainer to keep your environment fixed while you build strength, also a training technique used by racers:&#xA;such as performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1111867_-1___&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;these fundamentals are the building blocks of any &quot;couch to century&quot; plan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2792" LastActivityDate="2011-11-05T19:08:09.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2011-11-05T23:32:01.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your chainring or cassette is worn out, they will have &quot;groves&quot; cut into the sprockets that better fit a stretched chain than a new chain. When you put a new chain on a worn drive train, the chain will get stretched to fit into the existing wear pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Regardless of the exact effect of pitch or diameter, a worn-out cassette or chainring can accelerate chain wear. If your chains are wearing faster than you expect, you may need to replace your cassette and/or chainrings.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Speciﬁcation for Oil Field Chain and Sprockets, by American Petroleum Institute:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Do not run new chain on worn out sprockets because it can&#xA;  cause the chain to wear rapidly. &lt;em&gt;The pitch of the new chain is much&#xA;  shorter than the effective pitch of the worn sprocket&lt;/em&gt; (emphasis added), so the total&#xA;  chain load is concentrated on the ﬁnal sprocket toothbefore&#xA;  disengagement.&quot; (chains used in this application are fundamentally&#xA;  similar to cycling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Standard handbook of chains: chains for power transmission and&#xA;  material handling, American Chain Association:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;When a chain is worn&#xA;  beyond its functional limits, it must be replaced. The chain tension&#xA;  will not be spread over several teeth. The tension will be&#xA;  concentrated on the final roller engaging the sprocket. A new chain is&#xA;  also subjected to an impact load as each roler leaves the worn&#xA;  sprocket.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastEditorUserId="1111" LastEditDate="2011-11-06T16:25:52.090" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T16:25:52.090" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6779" CreationDate="2011-11-06T01:11:03.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fisherman's friend&lt;/em&gt; or some other strong pepermint candy is a common remedy against such annoyances. I like &lt;em&gt;Fisherman's&lt;/em&gt; cause it lasts quite long in the mouth - takes me 10 minutes to &quot;eat&quot; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2794" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T01:11:03.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2011-11-06T14:28:45.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This picture shows a badly hooked (motorcycle) sprocket.  Bike sprockets tend to look a little different, but the same idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPfrw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hooked sprocket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this were a picture of the rear cluster on a bike (vs a motorcycle sprocket) the front of the bike would be to the right and the direction of pull would be from the right, across the top of the sprocket.  As the chain peels off the sprocket at the top of the arc, the &quot;hook&quot; will tend to &quot;hold onto&quot; the chain and cause the &quot;suck&quot; that's been mentioned.  For a mildly hooked sprocket a new chain will actually peel off easier than a worn one, but with a more severely hooked sprocket the worn chain will sometimes peel off easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the chain before it's too badly &quot;stretched&quot; minimizes hook (the teeth wear more evenly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T14:28:45.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6779" CreationDate="2011-11-07T15:02:46.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess I'm on my own not wanting to see people, whether pedestrians or cyclists, flobbing out phlegm. Take one of @Idigas' Fisherman's friends and use old school cotton hankies. Even one-handed should be fine in many places (possibly not whilst running a red).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also not good is the sound of phlegm snorting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T15:02:46.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6811" CreationDate="2011-11-07T17:06:18.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preferred method is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the bike upright (left handlebar end against a wall), with one hand apply some pedalling pressure to the right pedal, while it is pointing to the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the other hand, press a straight ruler (with length preferrably around 1 foot or more) against the upper part of the chainring, making sure it touches the ring in two points of its outer circumference (one ahead of the bottom bracket, and other behind). This way you can be sure the ruler is aligned with the chainring plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the chain tensioned by the pressure on the pedal and the ruler as described, look from above to the alignment between the chain and the ruler:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the back part of the ruler hides under the chain, the sprocket is further from centerline than the chainring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is a gap between the rear part of the ruler and the chain, chainring is further than centerline relative to the sprocket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the ruler runs along the chain in a rather parallel fashion, the alignment is fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting that a perfect alignment is not strict necessary if the error is, say, less than half the chain width (I am being arbitrary here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this procedure just assure alignment to the chainring plane, since the sprocket could be rotated. This happens if a badly dished wheel requires the rear axle to be SLIGHTLY vertically rotated in order to get the wheel aligned inside the frame, but I don't think this would matter much unless it is too extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, this alignment is meant mostly to avoid premature/asymmetric wearing of the drivetrain, and also to prevent the chain from falling off if it stretches too much before being retightened. If you don't notice an abnormal wearing pattern even if the alignment is not perfect, I would think that's just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T17:06:18.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6828" CreationDate="2011-11-08T01:20:40.277" Score="5" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6407/vibrations-in-frame-when-pedaling&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; some time ago about vibrations in the frame of my road bike (a 1973 Sekine). Recently, I determined that the rear wheel is sliding back and forth across the axle, with about 0.5cm of play in it. It takes a little bit of pressure to move it, which is why I didn't notice it before (the wheel spins just fine when held off the ground), and I suspect that it is getting worse over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What does this mean? I assume it's not good, but I'm not clear on what has happened exactly. Is this due to wear on the freewheel? Is it just something I need to tighten?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T00:13:21.633" Title="Shaky Freewheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6827" CreationDate="2011-11-08T02:19:57.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means the bearings are loose. (The main bearings, not the freewheel bearings.)  It could be they're worn, but it's also likely that at some point in maintaining the bike you accidentally unscrewed one of the cups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you take it to a bike shop.  They should be able to fix it in about 3 minutes (though there's some danger that the bearings are messed up, if you've ridden it long in this condition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T02:19:57.673" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6827" CreationDate="2011-11-08T12:46:59.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you say sliding back and forth, and 0.5 cm of play that only manifest with a moderate pressure against, I would recommend, besides the very good answer given by Daniel Hicks, that you check if your axle is not sliding in the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Usually, lateral play on the bearings manifest itself even with the slightest pressure, and is much smaller than half a centimeter - or you meant half MILIMETER?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this suggestion only applies if you have horizontal dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as they said, the freewheel does not seem to be the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2011-11-08T17:00:17.007" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T17:00:17.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6784" CreationDate="2011-11-08T13:58:53.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a recommendation find an old piece of chain and practic,practice, practice. This assures you understand how your chain tool works and the process will go much smoother while doing it in the rain,while late for work or in the dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2802" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T13:58:53.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2011-11-08T18:48:58.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first rule is seeking comfort: adjust the height until it fits for your body.&#xA;Generally, drop bars are used for road bikes to optimize the biker's performance, because they provide an aerodynamic position. Most bikers adjust them to about 3/4 cm below the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try different heights until you find the height that fits you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2804" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T21:51:01.567" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:51:01.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6827" CreationDate="2011-11-09T00:13:21.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that the axle is broken, especially with a lot of riding on rough roads.  (I replaced a broken axle on someone'sbike not too many years after 1973 and earned a nice bottle of Petrus.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T00:13:21.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2011-11-09T01:44:49.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Specialized Roubaix and I too have been concerned as to whether or not trainers are hard on carbon fiber frames. I sent an email to Specialized customer support inquiring of such. Their comments were: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Trainers are hard on bike frames. However riding a Specialized frame&#xA;  on a trainer will not void the warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact I've never personally heard of or seen any Specialized bike frame ruined or damaged from use on a stationary trainer. Just make sure to keep your receipt or proof of purchase and if by some chance you have an issue you can have it taken care of under warranty. I don't know about other manufactors but Specialized says it's not a problem and are willing to stand behind their products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2810" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T02:22:08.137" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T02:22:08.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6836" CreationDate="2011-11-09T16:52:19.813" Score="7" ViewCount="2972" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's bike recently got scraped up and the paint got scratched down to the frame. It's an alloy frame. Should she be concerned about rust or any kind of damage? If so, do we need to get it repainted? There are about three scratches, each about half the size of a dime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2528" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-10T07:22:43.780" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T16:58:52.827" Title="Should I Get the Paint Job Touched Up" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6835" CreationDate="2011-11-09T17:22:48.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chromoly can rust. Aluminum usually doesn't unless you're riding in the ocean. Cheapest fix is probably some automotive touch-up paint; sand / clean the area (scuff the surrounding paint up a little), apply a coat, wet sand, repeat. Won't be perfect but it'll protect the underlying metal from rusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you want that perfect &quot;unblemished&quot; look you're probably going to have to plump for a professional (read: take your bike completely apart, sandblast frame, re-paint, put all components back on). Unless you're looking for an excuse to get a completely amazing custom paint job. At which point I'd recommend finding a good powder coat shop; my mountain bike's (chromoly frame) is powder coated and has held up really, really well over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T17:22:48.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2011-11-10T00:25:58.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way that you really can damage your bike is through your sweat. You drip a lot of sweat on a stationary bike, and if you don't clean up the bike pretty thoroughly after each session, you can corrode the frame (if it's steel) and some parts. There are sweatguards for bikes for exactly this purpose, and they work OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have a single-speed beater that was my dedicated stationary bike for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T00:25:58.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6861" CreationDate="2011-11-10T00:53:07.680" Score="2" ViewCount="20076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace a tube in my bike. I know there are many tire sizes. I bought 26', assuming that my bike was that size, and realized when I got home that I didn't even know where to measure from. What is the correct location to measure in order to get the correct size of tubes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T15:08:42.063" Title="Where is the proper location to measure the tube size?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6839" CreationDate="2011-11-10T01:12:57.873" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the tire.  It will have the size embossed on the sidewall -- either inches diameter &amp;amp; width (like 26x1.5) or metric sizes (like 700C-32).  Use a tube that says it's for that size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubes generally are made to fit a range of sizes.  Eg, a single tube may fit both 27&quot; and 700C tires, and 1.25-1.5 inches or 32-38 mm wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T01:12:57.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2011-11-10T01:28:15.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not exactly clear to me if you were wearing gloves or not. I would try a few rides without gloves and see if the problem persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue as you when I would wear padded gloves my fingers would get numb and stay that way for up to 24 hours.  I ended up not wearing gloves on most rides as a result but the numbness and tingling went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I started using gloves that have no padding whatsoever and have had no issues with the numbness and tingling. The gloves I use now are the Giro Zero's and the Specialized XC Lite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2817" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T01:28:15.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6845" CreationDate="2011-11-10T03:40:47.207" Score="6" ViewCount="15394" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some time ago, I stuck a U-lock on my bicycle for safe keeping, on the top tube below the seat. It's annoying when riding, and I'd like a way to remove it. I've lost the key some time ago, or I would have removed it that way. Preserving the lock is optional. What would you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="998" LastEditDate="2011-11-10T14:52:28.330" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T11:29:59.577" Title="U-lock stuck on a bike" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6846" CreationDate="2011-11-10T04:06:55.707" Score="9" ViewCount="59940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked at most of the answers for related questions and they all speak about replacing parts that are old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new bike from a friend who rode the bike for about a month before leaving it in their garage for about 3 years only riding it on occasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When riding it home I came round a corner and was about to head up a slight hill. I shifted gears and the chain came off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I rode it to work and it was fine, but the chain keeps slipping whenever it is under reasonable load (such as going up hills). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some research and watched a few youtube videos. I also have a housemate who has been riding for years and we adjusted the derailleur this morning. But on my way to work this morning it still slips regularly. It is not slipping into another gear just crunching for a split second. It also changes gears without problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at teeth on the gears and everything looks good as new. It is a 21 speed with Shimano gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although everything is quite new could the chain be stretched just sitting in storage? What else should I be checking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update to cover some of the points in the answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The chain only came off once on the day I was riding it home after I purchased it. The chain is now just slipping. I think it came off due to the way I changed gears.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the slipping is happening on the front or rear gear or as it goes through the derailleur&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's not my gear changing technique. At first I thought this may be the issue so I tried going easy on it yesterday and it still sleeps even if I have been in the same gear for 2 minutes before going up hill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed it slips if I can't maintain the same pressure on the pedals. So if I slightly weaken the pressure for a second or pedal slightly slower it will slip.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is no visible rust on the gears or the chain, but I will look at some of the other posts and see how to clean and lube the chain and will check this weekend to see if there are any stiff links. There is also no visible damage to any of the gear teeth, front or back. However the derailleur does look dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2460" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-02T04:04:44.347" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T22:26:49.527" Title="Chain slipping on newish bike" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6842" CreationDate="2011-11-10T04:21:47.203" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out a way to do it which was actually fairly easy. This only worked because it was in my garage, trying to steal someone's bike like this would be crazy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a hammer, and pounded on the bar. The first thing that happened was the plastic broke away. I kept pounding on it, until the lock just fell apart. It took about a minute...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note to self, don't buy a cheap lock next time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T04:21:47.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6842" CreationDate="2011-11-10T04:27:20.760" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you still have any of the original paperwork or packaging, look for a lock code/number, you might be able to order replacement keys.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take it to a bike shop and ask. They might have the right tools. They likely do this every once in a while&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A machine shop is sure to have tools capable of doing this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The local police department will have the tools or be able to refer you to somebody that does (they have to deal with removing abandoned bikes) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An angle grinder, or other rotary cutting tool with a metal-cutting disk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hacksaw (electric preferably. Maybe an extra blade)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Big bolt cutters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;could you close the lock without the key? Cut away any rubber and slide a shim made from an aluminum can down to release the latch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it a cheaply made lock? Might be able to just beat on it with a hammer until the latching mechanism falls apart&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a small car jack. Most u-locks lock on one side and connect with an L on the other, so bending the U open will release it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the tool based approaches, I would be very tempted to work out some way with a vice or two to hold the lock and bike steady, to minimize the chances of damaging the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thieves also use leverage based attacks, but I believe those risk damaging the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, having proper proof that the bicycle is yours is a good idea, too, since all those attempts to defeat a lock look suspicious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-11-12T00:27:29.413" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T00:27:29.413" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6843" CreationDate="2011-11-10T07:13:11.340" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Learning some better shifting technique may solve this. It also could be that, despite your best efforts, the derailers are out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the chain falling off on the front chainring or on the rear cogs? If so, is it happening on the inside or outside? (If it's happening in the rear and the chain is hitting the spokes, this can be an extremely serious problem that can be a danger to the rider. Other scenarios are not as serious.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you tell us more about the bike? You mention a Shimano drivetrain; Shimano makes differing levels of components, and even top-level components won't work very well if a bike is assembled poorly. Is this a reputable brand of bike purchased at a bike shop, or is this a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magnificentnose.com/2011/07/04/why-bikes-from-big-box-stores-are-dangerous/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;big box bike&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Shifting technique&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is particularly a problem with bikes that have twist-grip, bar-end, downtube, or other shifters that allow the user to shift through many gears all at once--or at least allow them to try; this will often pull the chain off the gears. The solution to this problem--aside from designing the bike to not do this in the first place, or having it adjusted more regularly--is to &lt;strong&gt;shift gears slowly, preferably one at a time&lt;/strong&gt;. If you must shift quickly, at least slow down near the end of the shift!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned that the chain is coming off when shifting under load. On derailer bikes, you really are meant to shift while continuing to pedal but letting up a bit on the pedals. &lt;strong&gt;Shifting under load is not advised&lt;/strong&gt;. I can't stress this enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big part of proper climbing technique is getting into the habit of shifting in advance to avoid having to shift under load. (If you're stuck in a difficult gear, sometimes you can coast for just a second while you shift. You'll lose a little momentum, but you'll avoid walking the hill.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mechanical causes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of these solve the problem, you may need to face that your derailer adjustments may not have done the trick. I'd bring the bike into a shop and have a pro wrencher &lt;strong&gt;adjust the derailers&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cable stretch&lt;/strong&gt; tends to come about with use more than time, but it could be a contributing factor. A derailer service will include adjusting the cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other possible causes, although they're less likely than shifting technique problems or derailer maladjustment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain stretch&lt;/strong&gt; is actually the wearing away of the insides of the metal links, and it only happens with use. While a stretched chain can increase problems like this, I suspect that chain stretch isn't an issue. However, it's at least &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; that the bike came with an older chain, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2787/how-to-know-when-to-change-a-chain&quot;&gt;it's so easy to check for chain stretch&lt;/a&gt; that it can't hurt to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, &lt;strong&gt;worn gear teeth&lt;/strong&gt; can also cause this, but this is extremely unlikely to be the cause. (Checking for those is a little more involved than checking the chain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that the bike has &lt;strong&gt;the wrong size of chain&lt;/strong&gt; on it, or that the chain is too tight (or too loose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T09:05:49.110" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6774" CreationDate="2011-11-10T07:34:14.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try some ergonomic grips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/grips/product/review-ergon-gx1-grips-09-34100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bikeradar Ergon GX1 Grips review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/btY0P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ergon GX1 Grips&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T07:34:14.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6843" CreationDate="2011-11-10T07:44:10.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming it's not been used it probably needs a touch of lube and some adjustment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your friend only rode it for a month he probably didn't even get the bedding in service done on it.  New cables on a bike normally bed in after a little while (time depends on use) and so things go out of line fairly quickly initially which is why bike shops normally do a free first service, to tighten things back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lube on the chain may well be fairly stiff by now so I'd also give the chain a clean and a lube to hopefully loosen it up.  There are quite a few questions on this site about chain care which should hopefully help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T07:44:10.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6843" CreationDate="2011-11-10T12:28:37.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet for the chain having rusted, leaving some links &quot;locked&quot; and not turning free between each other. Also, if rust built over the sprocket's teeth surface, it can cause the chain to skip under pedal load, bacause the chain doesn't engage properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am telling you this because my damn lovely(#@%) cat pissed the cog cluster of one of my bikes, and when I noticed it, it was covered with rust. I cleaned the chain and the sprockets, but they were a mess, and there were some &quot;frozen&quot; links in the chain that turned very hard, even after oiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I solved the problem riding the bike. In the beginning, it skipped a lot in almost every gear, but mostly on the smaller sprockets. With frequent use, the problem is almost gone, because the rust over the sprockets' teeth is wearing off, and the chain is becoming loose again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not saying for sure this is your problem, but the symptoms are very suggestive, and I think it is worth checking out. You can do this HANDPEDALLING BACKWARDS while observing the bike from the side, to see if there are sections of the chain which do not flex properly and tend to go awkwardly around the derailleur pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T12:28:37.237" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6842" CreationDate="2011-11-10T12:55:51.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit late now, but for the future it's worth knowing that it's possible to order a replacement key for most locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need the serial number which is usually on the key or might be separately in the packaging (it's not written on the lock itself for obvious reasons), so you need to make a note of that somewhere and keep it in a safe place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T12:55:51.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6843" CreationDate="2011-11-10T15:49:05.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides what is discussed here it could also be that the back derailleur &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dropout_%28bicycle_part%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dropout&lt;/a&gt; or the derailleur itself has been bent. If that's the case you won't be able to set up gears properly until it has been aligned. Even it's a new bike it only takes once hitting the wrong place to bend it :(. You can find a number of videos on the net on how to align the derailleur hanger aka dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T15:49:05.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6839" CreationDate="2011-11-10T16:49:58.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a side note tires sizes on older bikes were not standardized.Not all 26inch tires from different bike makers will interchange. A 26x13/8&quot; will not interchange with a 26x1.90 tire, the tubes however will.Always reference the size on the side wall of the tire rather than trying to measure the wheel diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2819" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T16:49:58.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6843" CreationDate="2011-11-11T05:06:23.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility (though unlikely) is that your jockey wheels are loose.  I had a lot of problems adjusting my rear derailleur and couldn't work out why until it split open and folded itself up one ride :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T05:06:23.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7006" CreationDate="2011-11-11T08:15:06.030" Score="3" ViewCount="6481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are several clipless that can also be used as platform pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But i'm looking for something that can also have a toeclip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm dreaming with something like those:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bzuhd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bXJee.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLUS this half toe clip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bcMkG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even more ideal would be if it wasn't permanently attached so i could carry it with the bike and just clip it there if i'm w/out my bike shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anything like this exists? know of any try/success history about someone hacking it together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question: if i find a way to attach the half toe clip on the deore XT, maybe 1,5cm more forward than my shoes stay when clipped... would that work? or am i missing any obvious reason it wouldn't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-11-25T19:13:25.827" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T05:16:25.983" Title="Do clipless pedals that can have toeclips exist?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6854" CreationDate="2011-11-11T08:51:10.713" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AES1u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pedals&lt;/a&gt; that have a cleat clip on one side and a traditional platform pedal on the other side. You could attach the clip to the platform side and use the cleat side when you're riding with cycling shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have problems when you're clipped in because the toe clip might hang too low and catch the road when you're leaning into corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AES1u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2011-11-12T04:34:33.920" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T04:34:33.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6856" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-11T10:09:34.443" Score="4" ViewCount="4684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for recommendations for a rear brake for a road brake. The problem is that I can see plenty of options for the newer 'Allen Key' style but not the older 'nut/bolt' style. I also want just the rear brake rather than a set, drop is 'normal' for a road bike rather than extra short/long reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not too keen on going second hand because I want a nice new brake complete with pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Just to clarify, I am after the second of these two types:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bpCjp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T19:20:43.880" Title="What affordable rear brake can I get with nut/bolt rather than Allen Key?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6842" CreationDate="2011-11-11T10:31:31.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all lock ourselves out of something at some point. At times it can be useful to respect friends 'with links to the criminal fraternity': cheaper with fewer questions asked when it comes to getting cars opened, D-locks removed and house windows opened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Daniel R Hicks See this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hsM88Wx8QQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hsM88Wx8QQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picked with a biro in a matter of seconds, not even 'Kryptonite'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some locks used to only come with half a dozen or so key variations so the security was assumed anyway. With manufacturing outsourced to the Far East any brand, no matter how 'reputable' can have locks on sale that are not really that clever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you actually had a 'fake D-lock'. Even the big makes foist these on the public, where the barrel is some bent tin inside a chunk of plastic. Those can be opened with a moderately sizeable piece of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it was a real D-lock, have a look at how it would respond to the disc-cutter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XTYEcQAurs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XTYEcQAurs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is that, 5 seconds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T10:31:31.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6854" CreationDate="2011-11-11T12:14:16.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wide variety of pedals exist with toe clips on one side and the &quot;clipless&quot; clip on the other side.  Generally more of the full strap variety toe clips, though some may be able to have them swapped out for the style in your picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly you'll see this arrangement with the SPD style pedals, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem you'll experience is that the toe clip will tend to drag on the ground in certain situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also can (or at least could, at one time) purchase adapters that clip into clipless pedals and provide a toe clip mounting.  Mostly intended for when you use street shoes.  I have a pair of these, though I've never used them much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T12:14:16.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2011-11-11T12:49:16.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're aware of the fact that as long as you know what the thread pitch on the bolt is that you can just buy one with a hex / philips / security / whatever head, right? Pull the bolt (try and remember where all the various springs, washers, etc. landed when you pulled the bolt out) and take it down to your local Fastenal / OSSCO bolt / whatever and just get a replacement with whatever head strikes your fancy (if it's pan head or flat head you may have some issues getting a hex head bolt to fit because of the inside taper). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you have a thread pitch gauge, you could open your McMaster-Carr catalog and order it from them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, without knowing the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; alloy the bolts are made of you're probably voiding any manufacturer's warranty by replacing a functional section of the brakes. But, hey - if your brakes fail you could always just ram into a tree head first, right? That'll stop you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, too, am curious as to why you're adverse to an allen head - the hex shape creates a better (more points of contact) grip and it's a standard tool. They're easy to toss into your saddle pouch or pocket of a bike jersy, too. And it's a lot easier to torque them down to a manufacturer's specification than a philips head is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T12:49:16.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6843" CreationDate="2011-11-11T14:02:11.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just one more thing to check if all else fails. I recently experienced the feeling of chain skipping whilst riding, not necessarily applying a lot of power and with a new chain and rear sprocket. Every so often I would feel it skip and heard a CLUNG sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out it was the freehub. One of the pawls would occasionally skip over a tooth inside the freehub. I tested it by spinning the sprocket backwards by hand and then engaging it forwards suddenly. I alleviated the problem by disassembling it and removing an excessive amount of lubricant inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say this assuming you've only &lt;em&gt;felt&lt;/em&gt; the chain skipping and haven't &lt;em&gt;seen&lt;/em&gt; it, so apologies if you know it's definitely the chain skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T14:02:11.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6839" CreationDate="2011-11-11T15:08:42.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you still have the old tire, then the easiest method is to check the markings on the tire. But if you don't, then you have to measure the rim's bead seat diameter (see illustration). Here are the most common sizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;622 mm : 700c, or 29 inch. Common on road bikes and some mountain bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;630 mm : 27 inch. Used to be common on road bikes, now obsolete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;559 mm : 26 inch. Most mountain bikes, some hybrids.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fyd02.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown.&lt;/a&gt; See his article for more obscure sizes, and an explanation of what it all means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T15:08:42.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6898" CreationDate="2011-11-11T18:26:31.907" Score="1" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a used &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/6918#6918&quot;&gt;brifter&lt;/a&gt; and the faceplate fell off. I am pretty sure it was a 105. It works well enough but it looks shitty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if I can just order whichever shimano brifter faceplate, and it will fit? If that was the case, I might just get one to match my other brifter (a tiagra, I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T17:22:54.280" Title="Are faceplates for different shimano brifters compatible?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6854" CreationDate="2011-11-11T19:19:32.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think i've found one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/steveparry/2091942712/in/photostream/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/steveparry/2091942712/in/photostream/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCg1X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vintage shimano 105 pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T19:19:32.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6854" CreationDate="2011-11-11T19:34:29.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is much better to get a pair of your favorite clipless and a pair of your favorite toe-clip pedals and then just swap them out a pedal wrench when needed. It only takes minute and you don't need to torque the pedal too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T19:34:29.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-12T02:25:25.747" Score="-2" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find myself looking into buying a decent bike for the first time in my life (previous bikes having all been gifts or walmart specials).  As such, I find myself trying to figure out what a lot of the terms, names, and numbers mean.  Fork materials?  Tire styles/sizes?  Derailleur brands?  StackExchange sites are great for answering specific question, but aren't entirely ideal for people who don't yet know enough to know what they need to ask.  The unknown unknowns, as it were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good resources or primers for someone looking for a general overview of the decisions to be made when purchasing a bike, and the various tradeoffs associated with them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2826" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T03:20:52.650" Title="Buying Guides/Primers/Resources?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;reference&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-11-13T03:49:19.920" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6842" CreationDate="2011-11-12T02:57:08.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This works with almost any type of lock: Cost $0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(optional) lubricate the lock with all purpose oil or graphite powder. the lighter the oil the better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get a similar key that goes in. just find a friend with a ulock that still has the spare key.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get the spare key and file down the tallest teeth so that the key is a series of the lowest teeth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;insert key and keep applying pressure as if you were going to turn it to open the lock, and releasing the pressure. keep doing this over and over during next step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get a small hammer and gently knock the key. as if nailing it INTO the lock. several times. keep doing it. does not loose your temper and apply force. gently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eventually, the key will turn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the Technic is called &lt;code&gt;Bump Key&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus information: lock-picking is a nerd past time with several tournaments in the hacking community. If you want to learn more look for the &lt;code&gt;MIT guide to lock-picking&lt;/code&gt;. Yes, that MIT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T06:04:45.887" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T06:04:45.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6865" CreationDate="2011-11-12T03:05:06.417" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can read reviews and guides all day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bikes are really simple (and somewhat dumb) machines. There's really nothing much to improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's several things that does the same in completely different ways. So the only answer to this question is experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may work for someone like magic may impair you beyond imagination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, take your experience with bikes and think the problems you had and what would improve it. do that over and over, and visit your LBS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T03:05:06.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6865" CreationDate="2011-11-12T03:20:52.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;People recommend the late &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T03:20:52.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6871" CreationDate="2011-11-12T04:17:55.890" Score="4" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cassette style wheel. How do I measure whether it will take a 7, 8, or 9 speed cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T13:16:54.127" Title="How many speeds will fit on a wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6835" CreationDate="2011-11-12T08:52:06.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cheap solution to stop the metal below the scratch corroding is to coat the scratches with clear / colourless nail varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2293" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T08:52:06.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6869" CreationDate="2011-11-12T13:09:04.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go to a bike shop, or take some hub you already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, there are only two sizes: one for 7 and one for 8/9/10 (these are the same, just the distance between the sprockets is progressively smaller to fit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if your data-processing capacity and confidence are good, you can dig some info here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cogset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cogset&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2011-11-12T13:16:54.127" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T13:16:54.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6915" CreationDate="2011-11-12T21:43:01.570" Score="1" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most stores have Candy1 for $49, and Candy1SE for $39.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but i can't find the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the SE have a golden spring, just like the Candy2. The plain Candy1 has a silver one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Candy 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$49&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UuM6e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Candy 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Candy 1 SE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$39&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sjNuj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T23:28:25.093" Title="crankbrothers 1 vs 1 SE" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5346" CreationDate="2011-11-12T21:48:04.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No ready-made product. No previous try to make one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easier, cheaper to buy a new one every couple years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;possible solution can be the white industries' one-speed and somehow convert it to hold a cassete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T21:48:04.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4217" CreationDate="2011-11-13T03:44:17.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I see is they're forcing bicycles to be like the automobile market; &quot;old is bad&quot; and &quot;replace every 3 years (or sooner if WE TELL YOU TO)&quot;. Anything they can do to keep selling parts and bikes is &quot;Good&quot; for the &quot;Economy&quot; (AKA &lt;em&gt;THEM&lt;/em&gt;)&#xA;I just damaged the frame on my 16 year old Specialized Hardrock. The indexed &quot;collar grip&quot; shifters had cracked and failed in the first 6 months, fitted on the thumb lever friction shifters from my previous bike, and replaced parts as they wore out over the years.&#xA;My new bike is in the garage half disassembled as I refit it, replace the front shocks with a solid fork, friction shifters, 'long enough' seat post on order, and installing my double layer thorn stripping.&#xA;My real problem is I'm running out of parts as I repair other peoples bikes. Dumping the indexed shifters usually fixes them. Thorn strips and ooze filled tubes fixes their other problems.&#xA;Indexed shifters are fine if you want to take the time to tune them, and if you ride frequently; tuning them twice a month.&#xA;I am considering manufacturing my own friction shifters during slack time at work, but it's not a cheap way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2830" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T03:44:17.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4217" CreationDate="2011-11-13T04:42:58.313" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;One point that seemed to be missed in the answers so far (though I'll admit I didn't read every word) is that indexed shifters are only a small part of indexed shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It used to be that you needed friction shifters because, in order to shift to a larger sprocket, you had to &quot;over-shift&quot; substantially -- push the lever beyond the point where it would eventually end up, then move it back once the chain had begun to move.  Because of this, indexed shifting was essentially impossible, even though it was no doubt a sought-after goal of many inventors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What changed was the chain and sprockets, with carefully-engineered profiles that would cause the chain to &quot;climb&quot; the sprocket if it was pushed ever so slightly in that direction.  This invention made indexed shifting possible, and largely eliminated shifting as a major roadblock in the way of a &quot;mass market&quot; for bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, rather incidentally, the change to chain and sprocket profiles made possible shifting under load, something that was largely impossible before.  While many of us would willingly give up indexed shifting (I miss the sensation of the lever that allowed me to inherently know what gear I am in), how many would be happy to give up being able to shift under load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2018-06-23T12:22:58.930" LastActivityDate="2018-06-23T12:22:58.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6872" CreationDate="2011-11-13T10:37:30.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1089834_-1_1589016_1586500_400264&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Candy 1 SE&lt;/a&gt; is a special edition where colors are changed from standard &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankbrothers.com/pedals_candy1.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Candy 1&lt;/a&gt; as you can see in the links provided. Candy 1 SE is not even listed at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankbrothers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crank Brothers website&lt;/a&gt;. So if you fancy a more exclusive color set and it's cheaper go for the SE!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T10:37:30.790" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2011-11-13T15:53:31.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest answer is conditioning. Try pushing yourself hard for three minutes with three minute recoveries. Do this three times on the way to work. Do the workout two or three times a week. I ride a single speed ten to twenty miles a day before work. Using this simple program I got to the point where I was able to ride a single speed forty miles at altitude in a few weeks. Regarding equipment a higher saddle often helps with climbing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2832" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T15:53:31.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6835" CreationDate="2011-11-13T16:04:53.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had good luck with hobby paints.Most are enamal so they are durable,cost is generally under $2.00 U.S. for a 1/2 ounce bottle.You custom match your color by mixing colors in small amounts.My buddy has a Diamondback his color is three drops of blue with one drop of black. You can experiment to find the right combinations.Always allow the test sample to dry as the color may change,this can be speeded up by usung a hair dryer on low setting.Lightly sand the damaged area with very fine sandpaper,wipe it with a solvent (rubbing alcohol works fine).Apply the paint with an artist brush.If the area was the result of cables rubbing cover it with a patch of clear chainstay protecting tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2819" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T16:04:53.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2011-11-13T18:02:38.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An excellent resource is Bikepedia.com, they have listings for a wide range of bikes.It is very useful when looking at used bike ads as they may list stock components and suggested retail price new.The newer the bike is the more information they seem to have.It is useful when looking at used bikes to determine age by what years components were offered and with what colors.This helps with questions like I bought it in 2007 but Ithink it's 2005.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2819" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T18:02:38.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="746" CreationDate="2011-11-13T20:29:58.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used the Bead Jack a few times now with great success. As with any tight tire-rim combination, you still have to be careful not to pinch the tube. However, I've found it a lot easier to keep the &lt;em&gt;tool&lt;/em&gt; from pinching the tire when compared to using tire levers (I've given up on trying to use levers to put a tire back on--just too easy to damage the tube). It can still be a bit of a hassle until you get the hang of it because you will pull up on one spot using the jack and the tire will slip off on another spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool is light-weight enough that you could carry it with you, though it's somewhat large. You would need to keep it in a pannier or would need an extra-ordinarily large saddle/frame bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For $10, I'd definitely recommend it over any other tool or solution I've found short of buying a different rim/tire combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T20:29:58.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5731" CreationDate="2011-11-13T23:03:11.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started tandeming with my wife as stoker, and it was suffering. She is a bit anxious on traffic, and made me too aware of low-level actions about controlling the bike. Eventually, she gave up worrying and we started to talk not about riding or about the bike, but about anything else. Then the things started to really work and we had fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my stepson, now 9 years old, it is much different. He has his own bike skills, and is not afraid. I needed two rides to explain what he can and cannot do, and now we just RIDE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a theory that, if you, experienced rider and captain, explain some minimal unbreakable rules to an accepting stoker, you never have to mention anything about shifting gears or turning or anything else. Of course not any stoker is accepting of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as a minimal, I would say that you must communicate EXCEPTIONAL circumstances to the stoker, because he/she could be distracted. These would be (self explanatory):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gear! (specifically on hard climbs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Branch!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake! (for stronger-than-usual braking)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hole!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal! (to ask for bringing the pedals to some pre-arranged position)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ready?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I could say there is no need to much more than this, but of course, what fits me could not fit you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as a matter of fact, the more you ride, the less you worry about communication, because the team learns from each other each time more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T23:03:11.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-13T23:39:34.650" Score="1" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently refurbished a 24 speed MTB with new cables, new chain and a proper clean. No matter how much I tried I could not get the shifting to be as smooth as a 9 speed system. It had a certain clunkiness to it that wasn't present in Shimano 8 speed systems from 20 years ago. I have experienced this before with 'Alivio' and other modern 8 speed parts which made me wonder, do these 8 speed parts actually work properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if anyone knows, are they deliberately engineered to be borderline clunky so that there is a reason to buy the better 9 and 10 speed parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T22:52:55.480" Title="Do 8 Speed Shimano Gears Actually Work Properly?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4488" CreationDate="2011-11-14T02:19:28.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;given a correct fitting, high pressure touring slicks and a seat that feels good, you can do century rides on an M50.  I've done two on mine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find this post interesting since I'm at the same crossroads.  In my case the components I'd like to move up to would be much more expensive on a new bike, than just replace my entire drivetrain (Shimano SLX or SRAM X7), so it appears my M50 will continue to live on having no original parts but the frame itself.  If your frame is still in good shape, this could be an option, although if you would need to replace wheels, handlebars, fork etc as well, then that might tip the scales in favor of getting a new bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the last post was 4 months ago, you may have gotten the new rig by now.  If not, I gotta say my weakness would be for some of the Salsa and Surly models.  Good steel frames and components that aren't flashy, but will do more than well enough.  Look into the Salsa Fargo - drop bar MTB for touring/offroad/or what have you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2834" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T02:19:28.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-14T05:21:45.007" Score="1" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my most useful bicycles is my 58cm 700c Xtracycle based on a Novara Xpresso cyclocross style frame. Lately, as the kids are getting bigger and my back isn't getting any younger: I crave a much lower top bar. I would consider a used mixte frame, a step-through frame, or other really low diamond frame. Recommendations for sturdy and faithful frame models appreciated. Ability to handle 3 rings and 8 cogs plus a chain stay bridge preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These areas would help me evaluate the frames I might find: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stability:&lt;/strong&gt; I have heard some people mutter that mixte frames are &quot;unstable&quot; as donor frames. Is this substantial? (I get some shimmy and flex in my present Xtracycle but I'm running a cro-moly frame but it doesn't bother me.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fit:&lt;/strong&gt; Is there a more limited range of geometry among these frames? Could I find frames like these around 56-58cm or about 19.5 inches? If it is a large &quot;WSD&quot; style frame, how much difference does that make for a male pilot?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strength:&lt;/strong&gt; Are frames with lower top bars any weaker?  Steel is not a requirement, but I expect to load it up with camping gear and elementary school&#xA;age kids.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T11:04:50.353" Title="Low Top Tube Xtracycle Donor Frame?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6797" CreationDate="2011-11-14T07:46:23.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are my results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cellbikes.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cellbikes.com.au&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclehero.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclehero.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikes.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikes.com.au&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.torpedo7.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.torpedo7.com.au&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclestore.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclestore.com.au&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aerotechdesigns.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aerotechdesigns.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclelink.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclelink.com.au&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hillbrick.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hillbrick.com.au&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nashbar.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velogear.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.velogear.com.au&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.probikekit.com/au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.probikekit.com/au&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pricepoint.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pricepoint.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.titusti.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://shop.titusti.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://on-one.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://on-one.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T07:46:23.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2011-11-14T07:48:05.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake calipers designed for recessed nuts on the fork crown will typically have enough exposed thread to function as an externally-nutted bolt when used through the rear brake bridge.  Get any recessed-bolt front brake and use your nutted hardware with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T07:48:05.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6893" CreationDate="2011-11-14T07:51:14.817" Score="5" ViewCount="7454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that I need to pump up my tyres at least weekly and am looking for how to make this quick and easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what is the easiest and quickest method of pumping up a bike tyre?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I found this device recently. (forwarded to the best part)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/8TVl3Ui-WHg#t=25s?start=25&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-02T04:13:06.160" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T04:13:06.160" Title="What is the easiest and quickest way to pump up a tyre?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6891" CreationDate="2011-11-14T07:58:38.650" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're at home, use a floor pump. They are very easy to use and have a gauge so you can measure the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pEFfu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Floor pump&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're on the road, the quickest and easiest way to get you back on the road is to use CO2 cannisters. They are not that cheap though and the CO2 will leak out of the tube faster than air (mostly N2), requiring topping up over the next few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOsGY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_pump&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;available on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-11-14T09:14:53.540" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T09:14:53.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6891" CreationDate="2011-11-14T09:03:51.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're at home, I recommend an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_compressor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;air compressor&lt;/a&gt;, there's no easier or quicker way than this. Usually these have pressure gauges, and you can even (with some accessories you can) control the max. pressure, just press and it stops when done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on the road, the easiest way (and also the quickest) is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If near a gas station, use their air compressor (if available)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, use a portable air solution (the quickest is the CO2, but &#xA;mind the cost of the refills), there are really nice hand pumps also,&#xA;not the quickest, but easy IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, and knowing that in my case I just need to inflate every three weeks, I would recommend getting newer inner tubes, maybe the ones you're using are loosing air quicker than normal? (I mean, inflating every week could be too much, although I understand if you really want them to be tip-top :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T09:03:51.520" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6891" CreationDate="2011-11-14T09:58:56.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer: Mini-Pump in combination with a Track Pump. Read on for my experiences of 'Cyclaire' pumps...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a 'Cyclaire' portable pump as I genuinely believed it would be the answer to all of my puncture/tyre care problems. It came with a neat bag that I could use to carry it on the bike and worked perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on a day to day basis I carried a mini-pump and over time I forgot to dust off the 'Cyclaire' pump, to eventually never even think about taking it out for longer rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was on tour with a group then I might just dig it out as it does have a gauge and high pressures can be achieved. This could be useful to maintain tyre pressures 2+ weeks in to an 'expedition'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is, I recommend a small plastic mini-pump for the road and a track pump for back home. The trick with the minipump is to get one where there are no extra gadget features, e.g. gauge, 2-way motion, telescopic barrel or any of that nonsense. These features can make the pump liable to rattle apart, rendering it useless when you need it. The simpler (but not necessarily cheaper) pump just keeps on giving. The portable pump only has to get you home, you can ride on 20 p.s.i. if that is all the minipump can give, back home you can then get the rest of it in effortlessly with a gauge to keep it correctly inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the 'Cycleaire' strays from 'keep it simple', as does the CO2 cannister. A workshop compressor is nice, but, unless you work in a bike shop and need one on the whole time, then you have to faff with it and wait for its cylinder to charge. For that reason, stick with the track pump (with gauge) and plain-as-possible mini-pump for on the road. If you really want a 'Cyclaire' pump then find a suitable scenario - either the long tour or, if you commute, inside your desk drawer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T09:58:56.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6887" CreationDate="2011-11-14T11:04:50.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look on the second hand market for 'Giant Trail' mountain bikes from a few years ago.  These had an unusual frame design with a lower top tube, wider, more stable bars and disc brakes. Giant Rincon Trail, Giant Boulder Trail were a couple of the affordable models I remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wTe84.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T11:04:50.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6891" CreationDate="2011-11-14T12:11:42.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely a floor pump (with built-in gauge) for regular at-home inflations.  Fast, accurate, easy, can handle any pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried the CO2 inflaters but I assume they work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most mini-pumps suck -- too little volume for fat tires and too little pressure for skinny tires -- so for on the road I'd recommend a full-sized frame pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T12:11:42.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6891" CreationDate="2011-11-14T12:17:46.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the question is directly about easiest/fastest way to pump up a tire, it is worth noting that all the above methods work.  It really comes down to fastest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try benchmarking against a flat car tire.  This is a high volume, low pressure problem, which while different from a bike tires (low volume, higher pressure) is a good benchmark of speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is actually an interesting challenge to pump a totally flat car tire up with a small frame pump, a floor pump, or a CO2 cart.  Alas, a compressor takes all the fun out of it,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T12:17:46.870" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6862" CreationDate="2011-11-14T12:55:20.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No they are not. Each model, and usually each year requires a specific face plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T12:55:20.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6885" CreationDate="2011-11-14T17:59:06.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only had the one eight speed, so my sample is not statistically significant, but it worked beautifully... Way better than my current 9 speed, which is clunky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think you maybe just got a bad one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T17:59:06.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6904" CreationDate="2011-11-14T17:59:23.213" Score="14" ViewCount="5643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used bike a few months ago, and I've noticed a drastic reduction in brake power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, I was easily able to lock-up the rear wheel while squeezing the brake lever only half-way to the handle bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I can squeeze the brake lever all the way to the handle bar and I'm experiencing negligible stopping power. I've shortened the brake cable at the caliper several times, and it's now as tight as I can make it without causing it to close slightly and rub the rim. Squeezing the lever slightly causes the brake to close and contact the rim, but I can continue squeezing all the way to the handle bar and still not apply any real stopping power. It feels as though the cable has become more elastic with time, like the whole rear brake system is softer to the point of being nearly useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot;? Is it an indication that it's time to replace the cable? Is replacing the cable likely to make my brakes more responsive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon closer inspection, my brake pads are worn down to plastic-on-metal; there is no rubber left at all. This is very likely the cause for my perceived soft braking, and definitely the cause of the lack of brake power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T11:00:41.783" Title="Do brake cables become more elastic with time?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6891" CreationDate="2011-11-14T18:40:45.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another Option would be to use the air pumps for the cars by your local gas station. I really like this option, because the pumps there have enough pressure for most mountain- and citybike tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a Schrader valve, the air pumps will connect directly. If you have a Presta valve, you can use a converter. It weighs like one gram and will fit anywhere. Eg, duct tape one to your seat rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, at least in the city where I live, there are gas stations all around. Be careful thought, these pumps fill up a bike tire pretty fast! So if your pass a gas station on your commute, this could be even the fastest option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T20:06:26.403" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T20:06:26.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6900" CreationDate="2011-11-14T20:32:25.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the brake pads are used can become glazed reduceing brake performance.They can also become hard when exposed to sunlight.You can try sanding the pads,if you see an improvement the pads should be replaced.Also inspect the brake surface of the wheel for oil or residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2819" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T20:32:25.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6900" CreationDate="2011-11-14T20:45:47.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake pads, when first set up, should hit the wheel rim square-on in the vertical plane and almost square on in the horizontal. I say 'almost' because you ideally need a millimeter of gap at the back to make sure the brakes don't squeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake calipers move the brake block in an arc and, as the brakes wear down through use, they no longer meet the wheel square on. Hence they get to feel spongy, even if they were perfectly setup when new. Contaminants in the brake blocks also build up over time and these reduce the effectiveness of the brake, meaning you compensate by pulling the brake harder. In so doing you notice the 'sponginess' in the system more than you did when the brakes were new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mitigate against this try to clean your wheel rims every time you have dirt showing on them, particularly after a rainy spell. This will reduce the contaminants on the rim that get into the brake block. As well as having more use out of your brake blocks your rims will last longer and your bike will be a lot cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of posh bike cleaning things, if you want to quickly and effectively clean your wheels without investing in these bike specific cleaners, get a bucket of warm water and add a small amount of washing powder (for clothes) to it. Then use a brush - one from a dustpan and brush will do - and give the wheels a scrub. Wash off with a bucket of cold water and you should be done. A pair of rubber gloves is worth it if your skin is sensitive to washing powder, but, if you use a brush then you should not need to get your hands wet or dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T20:45:47.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6900" CreationDate="2011-11-14T20:54:46.727" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cables will stretch over time, but they won't become elastic. They're made of twisted strands of metal, and metal isn't generally known for its elasticity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds to me like your brake pads are shot. When they become spongy and glazed, you can squeeze your brake lever quite far and feel like little pressure is being applied. Get thee to a bikeshoppery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T20:54:46.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6900" CreationDate="2011-11-15T00:02:53.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cables will actually &quot;work harden&quot; slightly and become very slightly less elastic as they age.  If they really do get &quot;stretchy&quot; it's because several strands have broken and the cable is near failure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, many other things bend/stretch in the cable path, one being the brake calipers.  As the bushings get worn and the brakes abused over time they sometimes begin operating at a sort of an angle that amplifies their inherent springiness.  Worn/misaligned brake pads will contribute to this effect as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T00:02:53.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6900" CreationDate="2011-11-15T06:51:35.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given what you are describing, it is likely that you are looking in the wrong place for your solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cables will stretch a small, but finite amount. The do not flex to the level you are describing. That would break them first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake levers, calipers, and pads can allow some spring effect into the system, but that typically doesn't creep in over time. It usually is a function of poor product design, or poor setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bet that 2 things are happening to cause the situation you describe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your brake pads are wearing down causing more movement in your brake lever. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your rims (the section of your wheels that the brakes touch) are working out of true, which prevents you from readjusting the brake to its proper distance from said rim, without it rubbing on the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am correct, it will not rub on the rim evenly at every point on the rim, but will touch it one or two (or more) places, and the first step in getting your brakes readjusted is to have your LBS true and tension your wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T06:51:35.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5755" CreationDate="2011-11-15T14:58:28.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only ISO 540 narrow rims I have seen are Sun wheelchair rims.  I think they make both tubular and clinchers.  You can get narrow ISO 540 wheelchair tires from Sportaid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been in the process of building a road bike for my 7 year old daughter.  I decided to go with the ISO 520 rims.  I purchase a set of Velocity Aerohead rims.  However, the only tires available at this time are the Intense Micro Knobbies and the Terry tire.  The Intese tires are available in 1&quot;, 1-1/8&quot; and 1-3/8&quot;.  The Terry tire is 24 x 1 (25-520) and I believe is made by Panaracer.  All-in-all, 24&quot; rims/tires are a pain since they have been made in 4 different ISO diameters including the Schwinn 'S'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastEditorUserId="2838" LastEditDate="2011-11-16T22:41:15.483" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T22:41:15.483" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6885" CreationDate="2011-11-15T22:21:59.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem once: no matter how much I adjusted I could not achieve positive shifts into every gear. It turned out my derailleur hanger and derailleur were bent. Either of these could contribute to your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2839" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T22:21:59.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6885" CreationDate="2011-11-15T22:52:55.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All my four bikes with deraileurs use shimano 8-gear cassettes. Although I have never had a 9 or 10 geared bike (I think it is too many gears, no need for that), I could say it works properly or not depending on many factors, mostly these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the cassette is worn, shifting gets worse, because the engagement points are not the same anymore;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the deraileur has lateral play, same way: shifting gets a little less precise, although I would say this is not the worst problem, see ahead;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If HANGER IS BENT, then no matter what you do, shifting is terrible, as @user2839 said. If you set the upper gears to be right, the lower ones will be offset, and vice-versa.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, if cable is not running smoothly inside the housings, there will be problems too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would never put the blame on the cassette being 8-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T22:52:55.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6415" CreationDate="2011-11-16T14:52:06.443" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute on a bike and I have on numerous occasions ridden my bike when it's around -15 °C. I haven't really thought about the bike to be honest and have not seen any damage to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the wind chill effect can be quite problematic and I have often had to shift hands and have one of them inside the jacket to prevent freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1625" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T00:03:43.767" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T00:03:43.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6914" CreationDate="2011-11-16T15:51:35.890" Score="2" ViewCount="13880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pretty near done my current bike build project, just missing a front derailleur. I can't think of why front derailleurs would need to be compatible with different numbers of speeds, given that the width of the sprocket will be about the same for an 9 or 10 speed cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So will it work? I bet it will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit, FYI: I have this installed and it has been working fine with a front derailleur marked as 9-speed for about 6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T20:29:29.210" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T20:29:29.210" Title="Will a 9 speed front derailleur work properly with a 10 speed sprocket?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6913" CreationDate="2011-11-16T16:20:16.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your front derailleur matches the number of gears on your front chain ring (2 or 3) you should be okay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, you may run into issues with different manufacturers or groupsets working well together. Are you using the same make / manufacturer in the front and rear? (e.g., I know Shimano makes both a 9 and 10 speed version of the 105 groupset and I am fairly sure the front derailleur is the same).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T16:20:16.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6872" CreationDate="2011-11-16T23:28:25.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They finally replied to my email i send before starting this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SE is simply the 1, from the last collection. They changed the names from SE, SL, etc... to 1, 2, 3, 11...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T23:28:25.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6920" CreationDate="2011-11-17T02:52:46.487" Score="9" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;What needs to change on my bike? I have an 80's Schwinn Traveler single speed conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What needs to change with my clothing? I just wear regular street clothes now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; requirements to commute comfortably through the winter. I am open to modifying my summer bike but not if it is likely to get ruined. I am open to buying a &quot;beater&quot; specifically for winter. I can bring my bike inside at home, but not at work. I'm in NYC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2851" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T18:36:50.480" Title="What are the minimum requirements to commute comfortably through the winter?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;ice&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2925" CreationDate="2011-11-17T03:43:07.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be impossible to give a general answer to such a broad category of lubricants. There are bio oils, mineral oils, dry lubes, etc. The composition of the compound dictates the nature of the substance as it degrades, and as it is exposed to temperature, use, dirt, dust, water, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiping technique I typically use with any form of lubricant is to use a cloth dedicated to that form of lubricant, and enclose a section of the chain with it as I spin the wheel through it until all visible liquid (and dirt) is removed. I've used Rock'n'Roll Absolute Dry lubricant since encountering it on a mountain bike trip riding across Vietnam and Cambodia. The cheaper &quot;mineral oil&quot; we were using was turning to a sticky polymer in the heat and with exposure to sun and dirt. By moving to the dry lube, we moved to the &quot;clean chain&quot; concept, and had no issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is a &quot;wax&quot; lubricant, the active compound of which is suspended in a carrier liquid. The wax is actually very good at binding with the metal as a dry lube, but the carrier liquid needs to be wiped away. I tend to the chain once a week if I've ridden much (daily commute or training), and both before and after downhill sessions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2852" LastEditorUserId="2852" LastEditDate="2011-11-17T03:53:27.123" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T03:53:27.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-11-17T10:45:19.930" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Brifter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A combined brake and shift lever. Also referred to as integrated shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WvhEN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brifter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shifter_%28bicycle_part%29#Combined_brake_and_shift_levers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T10:45:19.930" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-17T10:45:19.930" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6916" CreationDate="2011-11-17T11:52:26.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with riding 12 years through the winter in Toronto is that your bike is going to get ruined.  Find a source for reasonable to cheap better mountain bikes and be ready to discard them after 2 or 3 winters at most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a couple of things helpful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boots:  Canadian Tire (sort of a car/tools/stuff store) sold these hunting boots that were thick rubber, with insulated insert, rated good down to -40C and -70C, depending on the model.  I wore them down to -35C and my feet stayed nice and warm.  The ankles articulated surprisingly well, so biking in them was pretty easy. Also I wear a size 13, so when I lost balance in the snow and put my feet down, I had huge platforms to offer balance for the bike.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pants: I do not know if it is me, but every bike I have owned sprays off the back wheel and fenders, while they help are not perfect.  I started wearing ski pants, and that worked pretty well.  Or else waterproof over pants with the appropriate (for the days temp) undergarments for warmth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gloves: Like boots, keeping extremities warm is critical.  There are tons of awesome gloves available.  Get a warm waterproof pair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am actually living in the NYC region now (NJ, other side of the GW) and I am too chicken to try the hill from the GW on the way home once the road is wet.  That is too steep and long to do in my mind.  So I would say weather here is not too extreme, more wet than really cold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife bought me this nice heavy winter coat (not for biking, rather for wearing to work etc) that I have worn 3 times in 5 years now.  But I may be odd that way, not getting all that cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bike riding I used a MEC (Mountain Equipment Coop, Canadian store, sort of like REI and EMS) jacket that was windproof on the front, fleece on the back.  I would pump out steam in cold weather, when I stopped at a light.  Strange site to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T18:17:32.727" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T18:17:32.727" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6916" CreationDate="2011-11-17T12:28:15.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike doesn't matter that much, except when there's snow or ice on the roads.  What you need most is the right clothing.  It needs to be well-adapted to cycling (not loose or apt to get caught in the chain), layered so you can take off pieces BEFORE you get too warm, with wind-resistant and rain-resistant layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your shoes need to be somehow protected from wet spray, with rubber booties or such.  Wet feet can get VERY cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of opinions on gloves -- you should probably have several pair, from warm &quot;ski gloves&quot; for really cold days to lighter-weight gloves for most days.  &quot;Glove liners&quot; are a good idea -- you can use them alone (under regular cycling gloves) on warmer days, and they come in handy when you need to work on the bike in cold weather since you can work reasonably well with them on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the bike, any bike will work for plain rain or cold (though fenders are nice in the rain).  For riding in actual snow (where the roads have not been cleared) you want a substantial tread, and possibly lugged &quot;mountain&quot; tires.  For any sort of ice you MUST have studded tires -- riding on ice without studded tires is suicide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't feel that commuting is apt to &quot;ruin&quot; a bike, but you probably wouldn't want to subject a $6000 bike to the bad weather, road salt, being parked outside at the other end, etc.  And if you do want to ride in the snow and don't already have a bike suited to knobby tires, it does make sense to purchase a modest &quot;mountain&quot; bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt;  Forgot to mention the head.  I always wear a helmet, making a bulky hat impractical.  At one time I had a &quot;helmet liner&quot; (probably purchased from Performance or Nashbar) that was a sort of diamond-shaped piece of blue polypro fabric with loops to fit the helmet straps.  This worked well -- kept the ears warm in fairly cold weather, which is the main challenge -- but I lost it and never found a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried several balaclavas and face masks but never found one that would fit comfortably, without either obscuring vision or interfering with breathing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-11-17T16:55:09.573" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T16:55:09.573" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6923" CreationDate="2011-11-17T18:06:09.057" Score="7" ViewCount="1463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to leave my bike outside at work for 8-10 hours at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's -3&amp;deg;C or -6&amp;deg;C, is there anything special I need to do to ensure it will still ride when I'm ready to go home? i.e., will it freeze up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I can bring it inside at home but I read somewhere that the constant defrosting/refrosting could be worse than just leaving it out in the cold 24/7. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2851" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-17T20:25:30.577" LastActivityDate="2021-03-13T17:39:25.823" Title="Will my drivetrain freeze if left outside in the winter?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;ice&gt;&lt;frozen&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-17T18:13:19.333" Score="14" ViewCount="3131" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I determine what factors lead to a good all purpose city commuting winter tire? Does the rim matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to not have to worry too much about looking out for and avoiding black ice, mainly because I'm not sure you can even do that reliably?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be riding on roads and bike paths but if I encounter an unplowed section, I'd want to be able to get thru the snow without too much trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in NYC so please factor that into your reply if possible, although a general answer would be great. FYI in NYC in January there's 8 inches of snow across 4 days, and 4 inches of rain across 10 days. Average temperature is 26F low, 38F high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2851" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T00:07:13.957" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T00:07:13.957" Title="What's in a good all purpose city commuting winter tire?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;ice&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6921" CreationDate="2011-11-17T19:20:48.707" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frequently lubing your components (especially your chain) is crucial in cold weather. Lube (which won't freeze) pushes out water (which does). Besides the protection against freezing, it also will help extend the life of your components even in the face of sand, salt, and gravel debris from cities deicing the roads. Fenders with mud flaps are useful as well, as they will protect your drivetrain from slush. Basically, anything you can do to keep the bike's componentry dry is crucial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this end, I would bring the bike inside overnight every day in order to warm it up. This lets water drip off of it, and you can wipe off any that's left with a pile of used rags before you take it on the road each day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature flux might cause wear on the components, but I suspect the amount pales in comparison to the damage done by freezing (ice expands, putting pressure where it shouldn't go), salt (which corrodes steel), and sand (which prematurely wears components due to grinding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2011-11-22T04:06:06.777" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T04:06:06.777" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2011-11-17T20:45:36.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Snow is some of the hardest stuff to bike through, and riding in eight inches of loose snow is either impossible or a real slog depending on what tire you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to try to dissuade you, but I personally find riding through any more than a couple inches of snow to be more hassle than it's worth. For anything less than 2 inches, I don't think that the tire really matters because a mountain bike tire will get good traction, while a road tire will exert more pressure per area and generally find the road under the snow. A road tire does offer less chance of recovery if you slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I set out about 4 years ago determined to ride through every day of the winter here in Toronto (which I think must have a similar winter to NYC). I had some days where there would be many inches of snow, and I had to ride in the tracks of cars, but I made it through. Riding on days like that just isn't fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T20:45:36.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-17T22:07:20.217" Score="8" ViewCount="1641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently constructed my own windshield for my bicycle using Lexan and wood. It works great but it is hand-made thing and I &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be willing to buy a premade one that is curved (mine has a 90 degree angle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But is there a good one available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2855" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T16:21:23.203" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T07:38:42.560" Title="Good wind-screen for a bicycle?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2011-11-17T22:46:12.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 700x32 Marathon Plus tires: hoping that they are a good general-purpose commuting tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're said to be OK on rain. And riding during a snow storm (in Toronto) is analogous to riding in the rain: the tire goes through fresh-fallen snow to find the (wet) hard surface underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet snow, even hard snow, packed snow, granular ice is one thing -- actual sheet ice (&quot;black ice&quot;) on the road surface though is different, something else, much more slippery -- e.g. if you can't walk on it then you can't cycle on it, no friction -- for which I think you need studs (e.g. metal embedded in the tire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer (Schwalbe) also make ice tires. They have studs, at the edges of the tire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At high tire pressure, the tire is on its rim and the studs are off the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At low tire pressure, the tire is on its edges and the studs are running on the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you adjust your tire pressure to match the road condition, for example depending on whether you expect to risk ice that day.&#xA;I haven't tried that, but it sounds clever and correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2018-10-11T09:55:02.593" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T09:55:02.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2011-11-17T22:47:58.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride pretty much year round in all areas of NY on a Motobecane, Immortal Ice frame, Velocity wheels, and hands down the best tires I've found for these messed up streets are Armadillos. Almost 7-years and never a blowout or any trouble. Unless I'm doored. Love them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2856" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T22:47:58.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6916" CreationDate="2011-11-17T23:03:36.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What needs to change with my clothing? I just wear regular street clothes now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that, cycling in winter, I can just wear regular (winter or autumn) clothes: except that I have to take my winter coat off, because it would be too hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I need warm gloves (because, unlike the rest of me when I'm cycling, my hands are gripping the cold bike in the breeze for the whole ride and doing nothing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My toes get cold too: e.g. because my cycling shoes are extremely ventilated (my socks get soaked when it rains, for that reason). To keep my toes warm, maybe two pairs of socks instead of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wear long pants when it's sub-freezing, or shorts (cotton street shorts, e.g. cargo shorts) when it's above about +5C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a variety of long- and short-sleeved shirts and jerseys (some with a zip), and a wind-proof Gore-Tex anorak, for when it's raining (above freezing). I find I don't want a wind-proof (I wear a shirt and jersey instead), unless it's raining or sub-zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a pannier is useful for spare clothes: e.g. a rain coat if it might rain, ski gloves if it might go sub-zero, an extra shirt, etc. This is especially useful for commuting: where you have to be equipped for two rides at least eight hours apart, during which the weather and the time of day have changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;low of 26F, high of 38F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: around freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coming home on Friday (no snow or anything) it was around 0C / 32F, with an intermittent 20mph / 30kph wind. I was wearing cycling shoes, cycling-specific full-length jeans, a thin sport shirt, a zip-up thin woolen jersey with the zip partially down and the sleeves pushed up, and gloves. At the end of my hour-long commute, a group of pedestrians (all wearing coats) asked if I wasn't cold: but I was hot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got home I was still warm (slightly sweating). But although the inside of me was warm and pumped, the outside of my skin was cold (even under my shirt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling can let you burn quite a lot of calories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also my feet were numbing by the end, and thank goodness for warm-enough (but not too warm) gloves. I'm trying some &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003O2TR78&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sugoi Firewall GT cycling gloves&lt;/a&gt;, which have a built-in lining, and don't get too hot. I think I'll use warmer gloves, and a wind-proof shell, and do something about my feet, when it gets colder (below freezing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your commute is 4.5 miles, so 7 km. I cycle that in 20 or 25 minutes (to give you an estimate of how hot I'm running).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the road surface gets treacherous (e.g. snowy) then you want to be dressed more warmly, because you dare not (for safety) cycle so fast, and therefore can't generate as much body heat (mitigated slightly by there being less wind at lower speeds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-11-19T17:07:22.237" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T17:07:22.237" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6932" CreationDate="2011-11-17T23:51:27.797" Score="2" ViewCount="4780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a frame that I want to use. It is an old early 80's Cannondale frame. How do I tell what size threaded headset to use? What diameter should the tube be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2506" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T21:52:29.107" Title="Which threaded headset size do I use?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6916" CreationDate="2011-11-18T01:17:57.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The salt on the road can be quite bad for your bike. You should try to wash it off after every ride. Going quickly over it with a wet cloth and more intense cleaning on weekends or such will prevent rust on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T01:17:57.713" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6930" CreationDate="2011-11-18T07:39:52.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the fork in hand, it's easy enough to directly measure the outer diameter of the steerer tube using a set of calipers or a ruler across the top. The common threaded headset size is 1&quot; (25.4mm), but 1 1/8&quot; (28.6mm) is not unheard of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have only the frame and are trying to measure from the inner diameter of the head tube, then you are measuring for the outer diameter of the headset cups. For a 1&quot; headset this should be 30.1mm, for a 1 1/8&quot; headset this should be 33.9mm, give or take at most 0.2mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1980's should be too early, but Cannondale also experimented with oversize head tubes at several points - if the fork or frame is larger than that specified for the 1 1/8&quot; size, you'll probably want to look into a different fork, and probably a reducing headset as parts are going to be almost impossible to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-11-20T00:28:31.083" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T00:28:31.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6916" CreationDate="2011-11-18T09:16:56.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the temperature range you're looking it, you're going to need reasonable, but not too over-the-top gear. Layers are the key, you'll get to grips with what works for you, but if you work with layers you can add and take away without too much trouble (particularly true if the morning and evening journeys are going to be different). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some good advice in the other answers about gloves, liners are key, but don't be afraid to go heavy early, there are few more uncomfortable feelings than numb fingers. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of those, though, is numb toes. Heavy duty shoes are very important - it's worse if you use cleats, because the clip is a great way for cold air to get into the foot area. Overshoes can work, especially neoprene/wetsuit ones, but layers are the answer here too. Start with thin socks. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mudguards or fenders are pretty crucial too if you're going to be going through rain, puddles, slush or similar. They won't stop everything, but they'll make like a lot more comfortable for your bottom and lower back and lower legs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a look at your bike, too. Perhaps a new pair of tyres with a little more grip and maybe the next width up - chunkier tyres, run at a slightly lower pressure, offer a more stable ride on uncertain surfaces. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also consider new brake pads with a wet weather compound to assist the braking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And an all weather lube for the chain - inspect it regularly and keep it cleaned and lubricated &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're commuting, will you have someone to dry your gear during the day? Having to put on wet, cold clothes to cycle home is never going to make you happy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T09:16:56.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6939" CreationDate="2011-11-18T09:34:49.253" Score="12" ViewCount="5989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to using cycle paths and seem to get dirty looks for riding on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When driving along my usual commute this morning I saw others riding on the right and therefore passing to the left of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely it's the same as driving? I'm also sure that the give-way markings when crossing roads are on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;For clarity, I am using a single off-road cycle-&lt;em&gt;path&lt;/em&gt; as opposed to a cycle-&lt;em&gt;lane&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/82moR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2860" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:31:09.830" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T15:29:15.480" Title="Which side should I pass other cyclists on a UK cycle path?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6934" CreationDate="2011-11-18T10:17:02.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think cycle paths are one-way in the UK unless explicitly stated (but I've never seen a direction sign). There are sometimes cycle paths on both sides of a road and I tend to choose the side with the best surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T10:17:02.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6934" CreationDate="2011-11-18T10:49:19.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking the genuine separated cycle paths that I use regularly (as opposed to lanes on the side of roads) are treated as if they were roads, i.e. keep left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Warning, contains several sweeping generalisations.) The thing to bear in mind, though, is that, cycle paths tend to have a higher proportion of cyclists who perhaps have less roadcraft than on those on the roads, so perhaps are just dawdling and ambling and being less concerned with getting from A to B as fast as possible. (The cyclists who want to get somewhere quickly are probably on the roads as in most situations that is the more direct option, cycle paths tend to be circuitous diversions.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One common protocol one overtaking is to call forward &quot;passing on your right&quot; (or left) to warn, making it clear your intention. Are the dirty looks as much because you hadn't been seen as that you were on the left? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T10:49:19.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6934" CreationDate="2011-11-18T12:37:14.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US most &quot;aware&quot; cyclists treat a path as a road, more or less -- moving to the right to allow traffic (opposing or same direction) to pass, moving to the left (and call out &quot;On your left!&quot;) when passing traffic in the same direction.  (Of course, you do everything backwards in the UK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When on a relatively narrow path, however, with light traffic, there's a tendency to &quot;cruise&quot; more or less in the middle of the lane, though of course being aware of traffic approaching from either direction &amp;amp; being prepared to move over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When on a wide path, one rider finds himself nearer to the &quot;wrong&quot; side as he encounters an opposing rider similarly on the &quot;wrong&quot; side, it wouldn't be too unusual to pass without switching sides.  It can be confusing, though, so I generally try to stay to the &quot;proper&quot; side to at least a little degree to remove ambiguity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T15:29:02.127" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T15:29:02.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6916" CreationDate="2011-11-18T14:34:06.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually have a schwinn traveler converted to single-speed as my beater. Although the tubing is heavy, it appears hold up marvelously against corrosion. That makes a very good beater. I'd make the schwinn your beater!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, the only thing you might want for winter is fatter tires and fenders. I put 45mm tires on mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tCQ8e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T14:34:06.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6934" CreationDate="2011-11-18T14:53:17.223" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course you keep left, overtake on the right and queue like a good British person at junctions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are no rules. In 2006 British Waterways, concerned at the popularity and over-crowding problems on tow-paths did a consultation to work out if they needed a 'keep left' policy. It was deemed that such a move would be unpopular and not adhered to (and certainly not policed). Therefore, if there is no keep left idea then overtaking on the right cannot be deemed to be against any code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cyclists over the age of five seem to appreciate the 'keep left/overtake on the right' idea, however there are some scenarios where this goes out the window in deference to safety. Going over &lt;a href=&quot;http://g.co/maps/kxtj6&quot;&gt;Kingston Upon Thames Bridge&lt;/a&gt; the cycle lane is two-way, but you would be a brave cyclist to stick to 'keep left' when joining the bridge to go south - cyclists heading north are wanting to join the main highway and are crossing past your path. Going on the right is the expected norm at that particular point and, with it, overtaking on the left...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T14:53:17.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-18T14:54:44.287" Score="5" ViewCount="5864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just came across an article about a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstandfurniture.com/products/cycle-desk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycling desk&lt;/a&gt; (never knew that such a thing existed). This past year, I gave up a traditional desk for a standing desk and have been pretty happy with the results, but getting in some extra miles during the work day is very, very intriguing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages of a cycling desk, compared to a standing desk? (The increased activity of cycling over standing is obviously an advantage.) Would I be moving around too much to get work done, or is this a non-issue? What about the posture of sitting on a bike saddle all day? Can the movement of cycling be distracting? How does it compare to a standing desk with a treadmill? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with a cycling desk? And is it possible to be productive while cycling, or is that an unreasonable expectation?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2027" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-19T17:28:10.890" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T00:47:33.413" Title="What are the advantages and disadvantages of a cycling desk?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;stationary-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6925" CreationDate="2011-11-18T15:12:45.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In The Netherlands they are very common, because we used to place a child-seat on the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.marktplaats.nl/z.html?query=windscherm+fiets&amp;amp;categoryId=0&amp;amp;postcode=&amp;amp;distance=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a link to a second-hand website&lt;/a&gt;, that offers a lot of windscreens. For some reason its in Dutch, but I'm sure you can get lots of inspiration, and maybe even get a cheap one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastEditorUserId="23613" LastEditDate="2018-05-12T00:15:20.750" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T00:15:20.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6942" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-18T16:42:39.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An exercise bicycle or bike, or stationary bicycle, or Exercycle is a device with saddle, pedals, and some form of handlebars arranged as on a bicycle, but used as exercise equipment rather than transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stationary_bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:31:36.810" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:31:36.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6943" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-18T16:42:39.387" Score="0" Body="A stationary (fixed bike) used as for exercise rather then transportation." OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:31:38.967" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:31:38.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6944" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:45:04.563" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:45:04.563" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:45:04.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6945" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:45:04.563" Score="0" Body="Questions about fairings, full or partial, including windscreens and similar devices attached to a bicycle. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:54:42.257" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:54:42.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6946" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:46:31.567" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:46:31.567" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:46:31.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6947" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:46:31.567" Score="0" Body="Questions about shifting between gears or the shifters themselves. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:54:45.080" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:54:45.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6948" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:47:50.813" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:47:50.813" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:47:50.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6949" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:47:50.813" Score="0" Body="Questions about a bicycle's drivetrain system, including the chain, gears, chainring, derailers, etcetera. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:54:27.840" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:54:27.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6950" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:48:27.553" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:48:27.553" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:48:27.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6951" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:48:27.553" Score="0" Body="Questions about riding in snow. Please note that there are separate WINTER and ICE tags. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:54:50.040" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:54:50.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6952" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:49:37.363" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:49:37.363" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:49:37.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6953" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:49:37.363" Score="0" Body="Questions about cranks, which are the pieces of metal the pedals are attached to and then, in turn, rotate the bottom bracket and chainring. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:54:21.150" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:54:21.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6954" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:50:18.970" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:50:18.970" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:50:18.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6955" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:50:18.970" Score="0" Body="Questions about bike parts freezing or locking up due to cold or other circumstances. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T17:54:51.943" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:54:51.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6957" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:52:48.500" Score="1" ViewCount="2412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently building a bike up. I have a carbon fork, with a carbon steer tube, and I have to install it using a compression plug. I picked up one of these this morning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/compression_plug/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/compression_plug/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering if anyone has done this procedure before. I'm thinking I might run into a problem getting the vertical tension right on the headset at the same time as the tension is correct on the compression plug. Also, should I be using installation paste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T18:21:44.943" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T02:33:13.290" Title="Installing a compression plug" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6956" CreationDate="2011-11-18T23:18:38.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the torque needed to seat the stem snugly enough is way smaller than that which would damage the steering tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And by the piece image and design, I would say the tension that is correct to seat the headset bearings is good to keep the plug inside too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, after you tighten the stem bolts, you could even take the plug out of the bike and ride it anyway (I had to do that some times, but just for a short period, of course...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T23:18:38.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6961" CreationDate="2011-11-19T03:47:32.123" Score="5" ViewCount="5032" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old 10-speed bike (presumably 80's vintage). I'm trying to remove the bottom bracket and cranks but have struck a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crank bolts have a plastic cap over the top of them and I'm not sure how to remove it. They look like they should unscrew based on what I could imagine it would look like before they were trashed by the previous owner. I tried to unscrew them gently but they didn't move and as you can see from the photo below they're very fragile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CWr25.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side the cap has been completely broken.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/61LDJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see a nut, but with the plastic cap extending into the cavity I can't get a socket in there. I need to remove the plastic somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any ideas how to remove the cap and it's remnants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T17:02:41.753" Title="How do I remove these crank bolt plugs" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6960" CreationDate="2011-11-19T03:55:26.460" Score="5" ViewCount="14820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old 10-speed bike (likely 80's vintage) with a threaded fork. Can I replace it with a modern threadless fork with the style of stem that slides over the top of the fork and clamps on? I know I'd need to replace the stem and handlebars too and am happy to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to look for? Is the diameter of the head tube different with newer bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2dJA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-11-19T06:06:24.277" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T08:48:15.323" Title="Are modern forks compatible with older style bikes?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6959" CreationDate="2011-11-19T05:46:01.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technical term is &quot;threaded fork&quot;. That is, the steering tube has threads on top for the headset to screw onto. The newer design is called &quot;threadless&quot; - that's the one where the stem clamps onto the steering tube with pinch bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can switch from one to the other as long as the diameter of the steering tube is the same. (You'll obviously have to use a headset and stem designed for the type of fork you have.) The problem is, the diameter is often not the same. Around the same time as the threadless forks were introduced, they started making the steering tubes and head tubes thicker. The old ones were typically 1 inch (that's the steering tube outer diameter). The new ones are 1.125&quot;, sometimes 1.5&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should measure just to be sure, but I bet you have a 1&quot;. It's possible to get a 1&quot; threadless fork, stem and headset, but the choices will be pretty limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T05:46:01.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6958" CreationDate="2011-11-19T06:14:35.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, the cap just unscrews. Obviously, that's not the case here. Use something like the tip of a knife, a small screwdriver or a chisel to break it up and pry it out. But try not to mess up the threads too bad, you'll need them for the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think what you have is a square-taper crank design; the bottom bracket spindle has a square-shaped tip, the crank is wedged onto that tip and secured in place with the nut. Once the nut is off, you'll need a crank puller. It's a cheap tool, you can get one at any bike shop. The puller has a sleeve that threads into the crank (into the same threads that the cap attaches to); then you screw down a bolt inside the sleeve that pushes against the spindle, and hopefully pops the crank off. This looks like an old bike, so it might be stuck on there pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When reassembling, just put the crank back on and tighten the nut. Make sure you put plenty of grease on the mating surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T06:14:35.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6956" CreationDate="2011-11-19T06:30:41.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The top cap bolt doesn't actually bear any weight once everything is assembled. It's only there to get the stem in the correct position before you tighten the pinch bolts (and as a back-up in case the pinch bolts get loose). So that won't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: composite materials are a lot more susceptible to damage from over-tightening things. Get a torque wrench for this job. Yeah, they're a little pricey - but if you can afford carbon fiber, you can afford a torque wrench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T06:30:41.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-19T08:14:26.373" Score="17" ViewCount="10512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my bike locked up properly so that the frame and wheels were secure, but somebody stole the 8 speed and handlebars off of my bike. I don't understand how this can have more than a $10 resale value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is a Shimano 8-speed. They cut the tension cord in 2 spots... i'm not sure why they cut it near the derailer.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to protect the gears? It looks like the other one that remains is susceptible to just an allen wrench and wire cutters...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2770" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-11-19T17:57:53.060" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T15:38:01.413" Title="How can I protect components from being stolen off my bike?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6958" CreationDate="2011-11-19T13:16:59.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if they glued the caps in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, you'll have to dig out the caps.  As you know, they're relatively soft plastic, so it doesn't require super high-tech tools.  Probably something like an ice pick to pry a section of the plug body away from the threads, then try to cut through it with a small screwdriver.  Or just pry away in several spots and see if that doesn't make it possible to unscrew it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mike said, you need the crank cap threads inside the bolt opening in order to install the crank puller, so try not to damage them very much, and when you install the puller work it in slowly, then back, then in again as you &quot;chase&quot; the (hopefully only) slightly munged threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case, if you really wanted to save the bike, you'd have to use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut away both cranks, or at least cut them back to where you could access the bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-11-21T20:43:38.607" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T20:43:38.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6963" CreationDate="2011-11-19T16:28:37.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my bike for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep it parked (U-locked) in the bike room of my apartment building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At work, I have permission to park in (on the lowest level of) the underground parking under the office building: where it probably only sees office workers (and shoppers) who have paid to park their cars there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started, I parked it all day and into the evening, locked up on the side-walk outside the office. With a U-lock on the frame, and pin-head locks on the wheels, I figured nobody could steal it and could only, at worst, vandalise it (for which I saw no incentive). And it was fine, for several months (someone stole a front light once).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I feel safer now, with its being parked mostly out of sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;has the world gone crazy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that a few people want to have bikes without buying them: and create and maintain Frankenbikes using 'found' and 'spare' parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-11-19T16:42:44.840" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T16:42:44.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6963" CreationDate="2011-11-19T18:15:13.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is, no: There's no simple way to protect against this with certainty if you want to leave your bike unattended. The same thing can happen to a car: you return and the wheels are gone, the car up on cinder blocks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question doesn't say where your bike was parked, but I'm guessing it was in a public area. It sounds to me like the thief knew what components they needed, and that they had the tools to get at them. There's really no way to protect against that, short of sealing your bike in a box.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a few options to discorage this: You can not leave the bike by itself, or you can park it in more secure areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer parking my bike where I can keep an eye on it. If I'm stopping for lunch, I'll try to bring my bike into the restaurant with me. This is easier when I'm riding one of my folding bikes, and can slide it under a table or behind a chair. Some stores will even allow you to bring in a full-frame bike, especially if you're obviously being careful and polite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to leave your bike unattended regularly, such as at a train station or at an airport, look into renting a bike locker. If that's not an option and you have to lock your bike up &quot;naked&quot; in public, you can look into making your bike less attractive to thieves. (Spray-paint, duct tape, and so on can all serve well to this end.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-19T19:22:33.250" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T19:22:33.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6959" CreationDate="2011-11-19T18:43:01.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure the reason for your need to change but,at Nashbar.com  they have an  adaptor that allows you to use modern threadless headsets with the threaded quill design the cost is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product2_10053_10052_175545_-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;under $15 part #NS-TSA&lt;/a&gt;.Measure you current quill to order the correct size,note that the one inch quill is actually closer to 7/8&quot;.If your quill measures one inch order the 1 1/8&quot; size.This adapter allows you to use the larger variety of stems and bars that clamp on to the steerer tube while reusing your old fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zI1cG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2864" LastEditorUserId="2864" LastEditDate="2011-11-25T16:04:12.453" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T16:04:12.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6963" CreationDate="2011-11-19T18:53:00.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neil's recommendations for passive theft protection are very valuable - ie making your bike look less attractive. To add to that I would recommend always locking your bike up in a well traveled public area, preferably well lit, and find a few of these areas so you're not always locking your bike up in the same location. If you're looking for active theft protection (beyond a heavy duty u-lock for the entire bike which should go without saying) You have a few options that I'm aware of. There are various types of seatpost and saddle locks that you can buy which consist of a thin braided wire cable to deter thieves from simply coming up and pulling your post out of your frame and walking away. There are also a few manufacturers of keyed locking skewers that exist. These would potentially make it more difficult to take your wheels and saddle, but last time I looked, which I admit has been a few years, there were none of high quality to choose from. I bought a pair many years ago that used a uniquely keyed lever that was removable. Novel concept, but very little clamping force and I was able to shove a flathead screwdriver into where the keyed end of the lever was supposed to fit and simply leverage the skewer open. I would do some googling for &quot;locking quick release skewers&quot; and see what's new on the market these days. &lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Here's the last thing I'll mention which &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I dont recommend&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/em&gt; I have heard of individuals super gluing or (gasp!) epoxying individual ball bearings into the heads of the hex bolts of their bike's components. This is a great active deterrant, but unfortunately bike components need adjustment and replacement which this method does not facilitate. This method might be worth it to you if you live in an ultra high crime area, but I will reiterate that I would not do it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T18:53:00.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6963" CreationDate="2011-11-19T19:11:16.423" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no way to 100% secure everything, but there are things you can do to make it more difficult or time-consuming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't lock up your bike.&lt;/strong&gt; Bring your bike with you instead of leaving it outside. Mine goes into my office.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a &lt;strong&gt;location&lt;/strong&gt; where you or other people will see thieves messing with the bike. Not a super-high traffic area (in that case everybody assumes somebody else will do something), but a moderate traffic area. A thief will be more reluctant to do something obviously shady if there's people that might stop them. When I'm at a cafe, pub or restaurant, I try to &lt;strong&gt;lock up where I can see the bike&lt;/strong&gt; from inside. Or use bike lockers of some sort where it's hard for thieves to get to any of the parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use &lt;strong&gt;locking skewers&lt;/strong&gt; such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.com/&quot;&gt;pitlock&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinheadlocks.com/&quot;&gt;pinhead&lt;/a&gt;. There are a lot of variations on the concept, but the ones I've seen can secure wheels (via skewers), seat post (seatpost collar), fork (headset cap) or some brakes. A locking skewer would protect the casette from being removed, but not the rear derailer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the bolts with &lt;strong&gt;unusual bolts&lt;/strong&gt;. Bike thieves are likely have a variety of sizes of allen wrenches (possibly in a single multitool) and maybe a T25 Torx (commonly used for disc-brakes). Also Phillips and flat-head. But they're unlikely to have other sizes of Torx or other more unusual types of bolts. Getting proper &quot;tamper-resistant&quot; bolts is difficult unless it's something like the pitlock stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mess with the bolts so that they're harder to undo.  One technique I've heard of is to put a ball bearing into the hex head and melt some wax/paraffin into it. Tilt the bolt, heat it with a small flame and the wax runs out. Or a bit of time prying and scraping with a small screwdriver.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I do #1 and #2, and have considered investing in #3.  #3, #4 and #5 all make your bike harder to work on, but at least #3 bike shops are used to and you just make sure to bring the special tool with you all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T19:11:16.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6913" CreationDate="2011-11-19T21:45:04.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the &quot;Chain wrap&quot; the the FT derailleur allows. Chain wrap capacity is the difference between the crank cog teeth plus the difference of the cassette cog teeth. &#xA; For example a 53/39 with a 12-25 cassette requires 14 + 13 = 27 cog capacity. &#xA;The maximum cog capacity can be found under the manufactures specifications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2866" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T21:45:04.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2011-11-19T21:59:58.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tiny surface area of the tire doesn't give the most grip. It's pretty easy to lock up a road bike tire with STI or modern Cyclocross Cantilever brakes. The power of a disc brake would often leave one skidding out of control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also agree that the extra forces applied to the hub, spokes, fork, and head tube could cause structural defects or failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2866" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T21:59:58.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-19T22:05:51.033" Score="4" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am converting an old Trek 660 frame to fixie. It takes a 68mm bottom bracket and I'm putting in an SKF bottom bracket (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/skf-heavy-duty-cartridge-bottom-bracket-square-tapered-jis-3044.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) with both a BMX profile racing 110mm 46t and redline BMX cranks 165mm (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.danscomp.com/452040.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I talked to my friend at my local shop and he says these older frames run 110mm. I've looked on the internet and I believe he is correct in that I can use a 110mm bottom bracket and use spacers if need be to get the correct chainline. But I've also read that I may wanna run a 113mm bottom bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there were any gurus out there that could help me out? I know that it's only a matter of 1.5mm but I just wanna get it right because the bottom bracket I'm getting is mailorder only and $129, so I'd like to limit my mistakes on this build. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2867" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-19T23:57:35.083" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T02:03:10.687" Title="Chainline on a trek 660 fixie conversion" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6973" CreationDate="2011-11-20T01:43:32.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a bit of confusion in your question about how chainline is measured, and it's relationship to bottom bracket spindle length and the rest of the bike - you haven't given enough information to answer your question.  The rear hub and sprocket's chainline measurement is required to decide how to adjust the chainline in the front.  Even then, the published information about chainline for most cranksets (including the one you have linked) is scare at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest thing for you to do would probably be to acquire a used/cheap sealed cartridge bottom bracket in your desired length and see how things measure up.  Once you've made measurements, you can lock in the size for your SKF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T01:43:32.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-20T14:46:46.197" Score="3" ViewCount="2898" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought a winter beater to ride through the winter.  I knew it needed some love but the frame (Giant Yukon) fit well and it was a reasonable price.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just threw the bike up in my repair stand last night to discover although the brakes were partially working they all have a missing/broken plastic piece (They are missing the plastic piece that is labeled Spring adjuster below).  This piece connects the spring that pulls the brake away from the rim to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QSO3w.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Picture taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that rather than try and hunt around for that little piece that I should just go and buy a new set of brakes.  I was hoping to get some suggestions.  I was thinking that a set of v-brakes might be a good improvement.  They are a newer (but mature) technology.  I think if I upgrade to V-brakes that I will also need to get some new levers.  I just wanted to double check that they should fit my current bike (ie the pegs are in the same place).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other input would be appreciated.  Last winter I rode my mountain bike with disks so I am not excited about switching to rims but I want to protect my mountain bike from salt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-11-22T22:51:32.227" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T05:23:21.350" Title="Replacing cantilever brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6975" CreationDate="2011-11-20T18:37:51.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano actually stopped producing those spring retainers not too long ago. So you are on the right track with just looking for a new brake. If the bike is a winter beater and you want to fix it up for pure funtionality, then there are plenty of inexpensive options. Our shop here in Chicago for example carries alloy cantiliver brakes by Sunlite for just this reason. A similar brake shouldn't cost you more than $15-25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ellis -- mechanic @ Higher Gear -- www.highergearchicago.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2871" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T18:37:51.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6988" CreationDate="2011-11-20T18:54:22.723" Score="13" ViewCount="5865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a link to what appeared to be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0040VZKQ4&quot;&gt;Carbon bike on amazon&lt;/a&gt;.  The price was extremely lower than any carbon bike I had ever seen.  After reading a bit, it seems that the bike frame is really made of &quot;carbon fibre wrapped aluminum&quot;. What advantages would wrapping an aluminum frame in carbon have compared to just a regular aluminum bike.  Is it just to get a carbon look bike more cheaply, or does it allow you to use a narrower aluminum frame, with carbon taking up some stress, creating a frame with a weight somewhere between carbon and aluminum?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T01:24:17.947" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T01:24:17.947" Title="Why would a bike feature a &quot;carbon wrapped aluminum frame&quot;?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6978" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-20T20:16:48.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/bamboo&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'bamboo'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;bamboo&lt;/a&gt; refers to the natural material seldom used for bike frames, valued for its strength and light weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-11-20T21:13:21.013" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T21:13:21.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6979" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-20T20:16:48.223" Score="0" Body="For questions about the natural material bamboo, which is seldomly used for bike frames. " OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-12-29T22:59:48.377" LastActivityDate="2019-12-29T22:59:48.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6977" CreationDate="2011-11-20T21:40:38.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would in theory combine some of the characteristics of both, while permitting a cheaper bike than straight carbon.  The aluminum could be thinner, providing only modest strength but serving as a mandrel to support the carbon, and the carbon would produce a stiffer bike than straight aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or it could just be hype.  Or the &quot;carbon wrap&quot; could be used to conceal crummy joining of the aluminum tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T21:40:38.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6977" CreationDate="2011-11-20T22:44:18.740" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the carbon fiber to be of any use structurally, it has have multiple layers.  If it says it is wrapped around the aluminum, my bet it is for show only so it gives the appearance of being an expensive frame when it is clearly not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way that a composite of the two will be very light without being very weak if it were compared to a full Carbon frame or an Aluminum.  Both materials will not hold up to a stress test.  The Aluminum would be very brittle and the Carbon fiber would be very squishy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon and Aluminum are very light as is.  Carbon fiber is light and when wrapped certain ways can be stiff or supple.  Aluminum is always stiff, that is the nature of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reiterate, it is most likely a way to mask a cheap frame and pass it off as Carbon fiber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2817" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T22:44:18.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-21T00:45:05.513" Score="3" ViewCount="1919" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far it seems like the Shimano Sante or Suntour Sprint cranksets are the only ones that would fit my bottom bracket spindle (I am hoping to keep both BB and spindle).  Am I missing any possible cranksets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2872" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T23:54:23.813" Title="What road double cranksets will work with a 108mm JIS square taper bottom bracket spindle?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6975" CreationDate="2011-11-21T10:28:45.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upgrading to V-brake/linear pulls is relatively painless, the front brake will no longer need the cable end-stop holder on the headset/stem and the back will no longer need the end stop on the seatstays/seatpost. You will be able to ditch those and have cleaner lines on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the whole linear brakes are safer, however, you are right to look into the lever situation as the amount of cable pulled for linear brakes is different to cantilevers. See how your existing levers work and maybe consider getting new levers if they are not responding properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skimping on the quality is best avoided as the little metal tube on the end of the brake cable is safety critical and cheap ones can rust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T05:23:21.350" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T05:23:21.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6963" CreationDate="2011-11-21T10:36:59.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Silly answer alert...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get a Dahon folder where no tools are needed to take bits off the bike. Make sure it is looking well past its sell-by date and then you can park it anywhere, locked or unlocked. Nobody will touch it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be good reason for this - what can you do with a 3 foot long Dahon seatpost? It is not really worth having unless you have plans to take the seat off the top of it, but, if that is scuffed up, why bother? Then the wheels, they won't fit on anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, somewhat bizarrely, the bike best suited to being parked indoors, e.g. under a desk, is safest from thieves when parked up in public places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you need to go for some non-standardness? A bike with no commodity parts and perceived lack of functional utility for the bike as a whole?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T10:36:59.533" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2011-11-21T16:15:46.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This discussion has been mostly about cycling safety at night. Daytime matters too, and in daytime a brightly colored (say yellow) jacket is a huge safety asset compared to normal clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2875" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T16:15:46.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6940" CreationDate="2011-11-21T19:25:35.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic answer is that there are many studies that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brainrules.net/pdf/references_exercise.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link exercise and brain function&lt;/a&gt;.  A standing desk will get you off your bum, but a treadmil or cycle desk will get your body moving enough to allow your brain to work better.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an entire chapter in the book &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brainrules.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brain Rules&lt;/a&gt;.  I have no personal experience with it, but that is the theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1407" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T19:25:35.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6977" CreationDate="2011-11-21T20:44:26.873" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is purely marketing. It's a common ploy with components, but I've never seen it on an entire frame until now. Aluminum and carbon can be used in conjunction effectively, but not in this case. The carbon wrap on that bike is basically veneer.&lt;br&gt; While Schwinn was once upon a time a well respected brand, they suffered a major fall from grace after going bankrupt. Their bikes, even their bike shop level bikes (i think they call them their &quot;select&quot; series bikes) target the budget market. They're not horrible, but they're not great either. The bike you posted a link to is no exception.&lt;br&gt; One could argue that the combination of dissimilar materials would aid to vibration dampening, but that's really just more marketing jargon, at least in this case. That bike will still ride just like a full aluminum framed bike would. If you are considering that bike save yourself a few bucks and just go with a full aluminum frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T20:44:26.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6990" CreationDate="2011-11-21T22:06:48.707" Score="17" ViewCount="1416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mirrycle.com/original_bell.php&quot;&gt;small aluminum bell&lt;/a&gt; with a striker on the side that has a good loud piercing &quot;ding&quot; that's easily heard from over 100 feet away (30 meters). However, when it's raining and the bell gets wet, the piercing ding turns into more of a sort of dull metallic &quot;tink&quot; that's barely audible from 10 feet (3 meters). I assume that water drops on the bell are dampening the sound somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody know what to look for to get a bell that will still be useful in the rain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-11-21T22:16:52.930" LastActivityDate="2020-03-14T16:07:59.217" Title="How to find a bell that works well in the rain?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6989" CreationDate="2011-11-22T03:36:31.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Daniel R Hicks, my bell also gets a lot dampened in the rain, and this will happen with any bell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even so, some bell properties might influence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steel is denser than aluminum, so a similar-sized steel bell could have more mass and ring longer;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bigger rings might also ring longer, because of the relation among size, mass, wall-thickness, and frequency pitch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, to be honest, I cannot say any of the above for sure, because I didn't test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is of any help, I use my ring upside down, and raindrops get inside it, but even so it rings just a bit less than dry (not a lot less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a steel ring, the type that has a lever and a spinning mechanism inside (which I strongly recommend over the model you've shown).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have a set of similar rings on my bikes, and none of them has the same acoustic properties, I think there are some subtle factors involved, most probably the relation between the bell's main frequency and the frequency of natural resonance of the raindrops on the bell (I'm serious!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T03:36:31.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6999" CreationDate="2011-11-22T15:57:10.453" Score="14" ViewCount="37800" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was buying my bike, the technician in the shop told me not to press the brakes when the wheels are off (detached), otherwise the brakes will get damaged (I don't know how).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to detach the wheels for a few days and I want to clean the bicycle in the meantime. I will be moving it a lot, rotating it upside down, etc. How do I make sure the brakes don't get damaged during this process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-09-23T20:28:25.047" LastActivityDate="2021-03-09T19:57:16.340" Title="How do I prevent my hydraulic brakes from getting pressed/damaged when the wheels are off?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-22T16:23:08.467" Score="3" ViewCount="1968" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have sanded, applied primer and then spraypainted my bicycle. Then I sprayed clear coat on it. This last step ruined my bike. The clear coat was dripping all over the bicycle frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I smooth this out? Could I use sandpaper with 1200 grit size and then reapply the clear coat on the sanded areas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rather not sand down the entire bike and start all over again starting with primer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2884" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T03:51:56.213" Title="How to remove clear coat drips?" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6958" CreationDate="2011-11-22T17:02:41.753" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Pop the plastic off with a screwdriver, a lil wd40 won't hurt. Just remember, CRANK ARMS SCREW ON BACKWARDS! left tight,,, right loose,,, also. It may be a european bottom bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2881" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T17:02:41.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6991" CreationDate="2011-11-22T18:05:47.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brakes won't get &lt;em&gt;damaged&lt;/em&gt;. They'll just squeeze the pads together so tight that you won't be able to get the rotor back in there. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2558/how-do-i-separate-brake-pads-after-accidentally-pulling-the-front-brake-while-th&quot;&gt;See related question.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there are any special tools, but you should be able to rig something up with a small chunk of plywood or cardboard that's about the same thickness as the rotor, or slightly thicker. Just stick it between the pads, and secure it with tape or rubber bands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's stuff like this that makes me glad I don't have hydraulics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T18:05:47.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6989" CreationDate="2011-11-22T18:21:31.053" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try one of these. I got one at an &lt;strike&gt;antique&lt;/strike&gt; junk shop for 5 bucks. You'll definitely get people's attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gHemu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T18:21:31.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7003" CreationDate="2011-11-22T18:40:12.753" Score="2" ViewCount="1855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used bike on craigslist, for cheap, and while I wasn't expecting it to be great the brakes and changing gears don't work perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front brakes are very tight and the back ones are pretty loose... I can stop and everything but just would rather have a better performing system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gears change but sometimes don't work that well and I have to move the shifters all around for it to &quot;stick&quot; in a gear. Is there some way to simplify the gear structure? I wouldn't mind a single or fixed gear transition (since I live in NYC) but still want the ability to coast and use my brakes (assuming I can fix those too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2889" LastEditorUserId="348" LastEditDate="2011-11-22T23:06:24.973" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T19:39:26.200" Title="What's the best way to fix up my used bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6983" CreationDate="2011-11-22T19:05:23.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going off-spec here is only useful if your spindle is actually symmetric 108mm.  If it's older and asymmetric it may actually be equivalent to a wider modern bottom bracket.  You also don't specify a BCD preference; it looks like the cranks designed for narrower spindles seem to be 110mm BCD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/cranks/130-single.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Harris Cyclery&lt;/a&gt;, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.origin-8.com/?page_id=91&amp;amp;short_code=Alloy+Crank+Set&amp;amp;cl1=CRANK+ARMS+%26+SETS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Origin-8 cranks&lt;/a&gt; give a chainline of 43.4mm with a 107mm bottom bracket, which would be only 0.4mm off the Shimano spec of 43.5mm if your spindle is symmetrically wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.somafab.com/suswcrdocr.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sugino XD Swiss Cross&lt;/a&gt; lists 45mm as the chainline with a 110mm spindle; that would be 43mm in your case and 0.5mm to the inside.  Possibly good if your frame can handle a narrower Q-factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?Item=100047433&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TruVativ Touro&lt;/a&gt; and other TruVativ square taper cranks also seem to be designed around a 108mm bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T19:05:23.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6991" CreationDate="2011-11-22T21:28:21.940" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since bikes are usually shipped to the dealer with the wheels disassembled from the frame, the disc calipers often each have a plastic separator pressed into them that serve to prevent lock-up during shipping. The Hayes company even puts their brand logo on theirs. Since these are removed during assembly, you might be able to ask a repair person at your local shop if they have any extras lying around that you can just have to keep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here's a link to a how-to that gives the same advice, plus has some photos of the separator in use... &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-repair/hydraulic-disc-brake-service/&quot;&gt;http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-repair/hydraulic-disc-brake-service/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2893" LastEditorUserId="2893" LastEditDate="2011-11-22T22:19:18.267" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T22:19:18.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-22T22:35:41.940" Score="8" ViewCount="3594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Haro mountain bike I love. One feature request I have for a new bike is disk brakes. Is it possible to install disk brakes on an old bike? Is it worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2000" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-11-22T23:44:26.800" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T20:01:31.387" Title="Is it worth switching from regular &quot;rim brakes&quot; to the new disk brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6975" CreationDate="2011-11-22T22:48:02.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you switch to V-brakes you &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; need new levers. V-brakes are designed for levers that have a lower mechanical advantage, but pull the cable farther. If you mix and match, your brakes will work, but not very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to stay with cantilevers, I recommend Cane Creek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T22:48:02.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7000" CreationDate="2011-11-22T22:58:22.957" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't wise to install disc brakes on a frame and fork that weren't designed to withstand the unique forces that disc brakes generate,  and you'll just damage your bike in the process.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your Haro does have disc brake mount tabs,  then you can install them but likely only with smaller disc rotors.  Remember that you'll have to get new wheels too,  which increases your total cost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes are great for many riders,  but then again so are rim brakes.  Do you really need to switch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2893" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T22:58:22.957" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6997" CreationDate="2011-11-23T00:25:48.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simple adjustment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that your brakes and gears are simply out of adjustment. The easiest way to confirm this would be to take it to your local bike store (LBS) and ask them for advice. Most stores are pretty friendly and helpful towards keen amateurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they advise that it's just adjustments they can do it themselves, or show you the adjustment screws so you can try it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More significant work&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may turn out that there is more work required, such as replacing brakes or gears. Also the chain, cassette and chainrings may need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case I'd be very wary of investing too much money into the bike. Buying components individually is a lot more expensive than buying a complete bike. Plus making sure parts will fit can be confusing and unreliable. If there's much wrong with the bike I'd say it'd be cheaper to buy a new bike where you know that all the parts are at least compatible and in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T00:25:48.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7076" CreationDate="2011-11-23T01:12:05.033" Score="5" ViewCount="2151" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some bikes, e.g. Busettii Vortex use an external motor, while others (by the same manufacturer) use hub motors. Busettii claims that external motors have higher efficiency (http://www.biyadii.com/), yet their top-of-the-line Big 50 model uses a hub motor. Other Web sites say that hub motors are more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confused. Do external motors really produce more torque using less electricity? If so, how? If the issue is sub-optimal RPM in hub motors, then why would moving the motor outside the hub help with that?  I am looking for some no-nonsense technical explanation of the pros and cons of each design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastActivityDate="2020-06-20T18:25:31.673" Title="EBike hub motor vs external motor" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6854" CreationDate="2011-11-23T02:18:23.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guy who sponsors my team at the Dick Lane Velodrome converts standard Speedplay Zero pedals to have &lt;a href=&quot;http://prollyisnotprobably.com/2010/08/bill_thomsen_speedplay_toe_cli.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;toe clips&lt;/a&gt;. You might be able to contact him to have him make some for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AlS9k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;speedplay pedal with straps&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2011-11-28T23:00:59.713" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T23:00:59.713" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1865" CreationDate="2011-11-23T02:51:37.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it is possible to close the master link with the chain disengaged from the chainring, so that it is loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you engage from the chainring bottom and pedal backwards, so that the chain &quot;snaps&quot; in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T02:51:37.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7040" CreationDate="2011-11-23T03:07:59.577" Score="3" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had to replace the shifters on my bike. The replacement was easy enough, but now when I shift the derailleur either jumps too far or too short. I've tried using the adjustment screws on the derailleurs but I feel like I am doing something wrong. I think I'm just going to disconnect everything and I was looking for a guide to do this properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I don't have a rack to hang the bike while I work so I will be working on the bike upsidedown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Yes I have the right shifters. They are the same exact model as the ones i replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="2899" LastEditDate="2011-11-23T21:52:45.490" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T07:02:12.863" Title="Gear shift adjustments" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6993" CreationDate="2011-11-23T03:51:56.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per Daniels' suggestion try sanding the rough spots.Before repainting try to figure out what went wrong the first time,was it to humid outside,did the nozzle glog during application,did you apply it too thick?Painting round surfaces can be difficult.Try applying several light coats while allowing it to dry between applications,follow the instructions on the can for drying times.Practice your spray technique on some scrap pipe or backyard fence to get your arm movement consistant.Pay particular attention to complex areas like the bottom bracket area where many pieces and angles are involved,it may take several passes at odd angles to get complete coverage without runs and sags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2864" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T03:51:56.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7008" CreationDate="2011-11-23T04:10:08.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Congratulations on starting to do your own repairs. The first step is realizing some thing is wrong (you seem to have got that one). Step two try to fix it. Step three learn why step two didn't work. I use the Parktool BigBlue Book as my guide. I bought mine at a local bookstore but it is available on their website for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for not having a repair stand, I installed two large hooks about six feet apart in the ceiling of my storage area. A piece of rope, nylon luggage strap or cord loops over the nose of the seat and over the hook. A second piece is laced around the headset to the second hook. I can adjust the lengths to vary the height, shorter if I'm working on a brake caliper, longer if I'm working on a brake lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2864" LastEditorUserId="1090" LastEditDate="2011-11-26T07:02:12.863" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T07:02:12.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7000" CreationDate="2011-11-23T07:28:51.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it? Hell yeah. Especially for wet or muddy conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible on your bike? Probably not. Unless you get new wheels, a new frame and a new fork. In which case you might as well buy a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T07:28:51.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6991" CreationDate="2011-11-23T07:29:15.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to the other answers: There are special tools, but they're just plastic wedges, so a flat blade screwdriver is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T07:29:15.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7018" CreationDate="2011-11-23T09:23:47.723" Score="9" ViewCount="1015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a used tandem and am going to be tuning it up over the winter.  It's a Yakota Twin Peaks (i.e. 20 years old) and it has Scott-Peterson &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sa-o.html#self&quot;&gt;Self-Energizing brakes&lt;/a&gt;.  I haven't taken them apart yet, but all the descriptions online say the same thing: they have a helical thread as the pivot, so when the pad touches the rim and is dragged forward, the pads are forced inward onto the rims with more force, increasing the braking power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm wondering is whether there are conventional cantilever bosses under there or did the SE brakes require something special?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my purposes (pretty gentle cruising on the tandem with my daughter on the back), I don't think I need any extra stopping power, so I'm thinking of replacing the SE brakes with regular cantilevers.  But before I dive in, I'd like to find out more about what I'll find if I start taking them apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T14:43:52.813" Title="Can I replace my self-energizing brakes with regular cantilevers?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-23T11:40:36.927" Score="5" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just put on a tyre and innertube, fits perfectly, but now when I stop pedalling the gears at the back keep moving so the chain just sags down so much that it hits the wheel etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to fix it, or why this is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers guys&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jeremy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2903" LastEditorUserId="1487" LastEditDate="2011-11-23T11:55:03.190" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T11:55:03.190" Title="Replaced tyre and tube, now the rear gears will not stop" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7014" CreationDate="2011-11-23T11:48:16.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep these for an eBay sale - they are hard to come by and desired by those that desire them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Suntour versions of these mounted onto regular bosses, the helical part was all in the bulky pivot part of the levers. So yes you can swap them out for normal 'linear-pull' style brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T11:48:16.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7015" CreationDate="2011-11-23T11:53:19.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have not put the wheel back in properly and have somehow managed to over-tighten the freewheel/freehub, causing it not to spin freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to take the wheel out and check that the axle nuts are done up properly and that the freewheel/freehub works. At a guess you are not using a quick-release lever, with nut-style axles you must tighten up each side gradually - 1/2 a turn each side once the wheel is in place or else you can tighten the axle (instead of putting the wheel in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do check for 'play' in the wheel once it is back in, if there is any then you will need to get it adjusted - wheel back out time... If you cannot work out what is going on with it, visit a friendly LBS during a quiet weekday to see if they can put it right for you whilst-you-wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1487" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T11:53:19.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7014" CreationDate="2011-11-23T14:43:52.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Scott-Peterson SE brakes used standard canti bosses. You're probably safe to replace them with standard cantis or V-brakes (what type of levers are you using?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T14:43:52.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7030" CreationDate="2011-11-23T14:44:15.950" Score="2" ViewCount="916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find out how loud the Nashbar Fluid Trainer is, as I don't know anyone who owns one. How loud is it, compared to other, similar trainers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1962" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-11-24T17:45:15.913" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:01:32.953" Title="Is the Nashbar Fluid Trainer loud?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7008" CreationDate="2011-11-23T15:02:38.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with the Park Tool book that mikes mentioned, Lennard Zinn has several books and DVDs that are available through &lt;a href=&quot;http://Lennard%20Zinn%20also%20has%20several%20books%20and%20DVDs%20that%20are%20available&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;his website&lt;/a&gt;. He's a trusted name in the industry and usually knows what he's talking about. If you need more immediate help I would take a look at both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/search.html?s=bicycle&amp;amp;skin=corporate&amp;amp;t=all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eHow&lt;/a&gt; (originally I was going to say ExpertVillage.com but eHow seems to have absorbed them) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bicycle%20maintenance&amp;amp;oq=bicycle%20maintenance&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;aqi=g10&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;gs_sm=e&amp;amp;gs_upl=103l103l0l493l1l1l0l0l0l0l269l269l2-1l1l0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt;. Both sites have good videos on all facets of bike maintenance. I like to harp about local bike shops, so here's my plug for yours - lots of shops will let you watch and tell you what they're doing while they work on your bike, especially this time of year when they're slow (approaching winter in the northern hemisphere). You can't ask a book or a video questions, so find a good mechanic at a good shop and ask them if you can watch while they do a tune up/derailleur adjust/brake adjust/ whatever. It's a little more on the rare side, but some shops even offer repair clinics. Just check around with the shops near you and see what you find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T15:02:38.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7022" CreationDate="2011-11-23T17:17:24.717" Score="6" ViewCount="5649" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano components have numbers, presumably to denote quality. E.g. Dura Ace stuff has numbers like 7700, 7800, or 7900. An Ultegra might have 6700 or 6800 on it. A 105 might have the number 5600 or 5700 attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the first number indicates the product-line. What is the second number? Are these the only components with numbers, or do tiagra, sora, and lower get these numbers too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it all mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T20:02:40.920" Title="What do the numbers of shimano components mean?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7021" CreationDate="2011-11-23T19:21:43.247" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are just editions of specific product lines. It's the same as BMW with the 3-series, 5-series and 7-series. Let's take &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebicyclemasters.blogspot.com/2011/02/dura-ace-timeline.html&quot;&gt;Shimano Dura-Ace&lt;/a&gt;, for instance. It's traditionally a 7000-series of product numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7200 - 1978-era Dura-Ace&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7400 - Mid-to-late 1980's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7700 - 9-speed Dura-Ace ~ late 1990's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7800 - 10-speed Dura-Ace ~ 2000's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7900 - Current 10-speed Dura-Ace&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from wikipedia, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano#Road_groupsets&quot;&gt;For 2011, road bicycle groupsets include&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Dura-Ace Di2 [7970] (10 speed electronic)&#xA;Dura-Ace [7900] (10 speed)&#xA;Dura-Ace Track [7700] (NJS-approved, which is a requirement of all bicycle components used in professional Keirin racing in Japan)&#xA;Ultegra Di2 [6770] (10 speed electronic)&#xA;Ultegra [6700] (10 speed)&#xA;105 [5700] (10 speed)&#xA;Tiagra [4600] (10 speed) 9 speed on older models&#xA;Sora [3400] (9 speed)&#xA;2300 [2300] (8 speed)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2011-11-23T20:02:40.920" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T20:02:40.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6997" CreationDate="2011-11-23T20:58:00.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like Zinn's series of books. Lots of great advice and catchy titles. What's not to like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=zinn+cycle&amp;amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Azinn+cycle&amp;amp;ajr=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=zinn+cycle&amp;amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Azinn+cycle&amp;amp;ajr=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2906" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T20:58:00.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6989" CreationDate="2011-11-23T21:01:50.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want to be heard ditch the bell and get an Airzound (or something similar) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airzound.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.airzound.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2906" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T21:01:50.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6997" CreationDate="2011-11-23T21:17:11.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake maintenance has a few different steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ensure that the brakes pads are not worn out and sitting a decent distance from the rim. If you can't see a minimum wear line, it's time to replace your pads. If the brakes are sitting more than a couple of millimeters from the rim, you will have to adjust the system. If there's a barrel adjuster somewhere in the brake line, turn it counter-clockwise a few times until the brake is sitting closer to the rim. Be careful here that you don't introduce a brake-rub, as an untrue wheel may wobble into the pads. If there is more slack than can be taken up with the barrel adjuster, screw it all the way in again and redo the tension by undoing the bolt fastening the cable to the brake. Also, if it's a road style caliper make sure that the quick release lever is flipped down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the braking surface and the surface of the pad. Grey gunk builds up on your braking surface over time. It can be cleaned off with elbow grease and steel wool. If the surface of the pads look at all glazed, rough them up with a course grit sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ensure that your cables are moving freely. If you notice that you are pulling the brake lever and the cable isn't moving much at the brake, you likely have rust in your housing. Often letting some oil work it's way into the end of the housing, then letting it sit will clear this up. (synthetic chain lube preferably, but wd40 would probably work too). If that doesn't do it, the housings and cables should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T21:17:11.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6997" CreationDate="2011-11-23T22:33:30.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest learning to adjust the setup on your bike before anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're mechanically minded, get your hands dirty and have a play around. If you're not, a bicycle is a great place to start your learning, and you can always take it to a bike store if it frustrates you too much. There are a lot of youtube videos on the subject if you prefer them over books:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting brakes: &#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/eAHrHDTsu5U?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting your rear derailleur, which is often the cause of gear troubles:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/2j1gSwhsVN8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll first want to check the back wheel is true and aligned correctly. Sometimes going over gutters and bumps can knock the wheel loose which knocks everything else out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel cables will stretch over time, especially if you store them under tension like leaving your bike in a low gear overnight. It's worthwhile learning how to adjust them as they need it done periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need some basic tools, depending on your bike, generally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a shifter (adjustable/shifting spanner) or a socket set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;phillips head screwdriver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;allen keys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you do any work, do a short test ride out of traffic and harms way in case something goes wrong e.g. your brakes don't work as expected or your wheel locks up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and happy cycling!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2902" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T20:51:04.280" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:51:04.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6991" CreationDate="2011-11-23T23:30:05.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The damage will come from chipping/scratching/gouging the pads when you try to get them apart and back over the rotor. If you are replacing the brake pads, it's not such an issue, but in any case it is easier to put a spacer between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for preventing operation of your brakes, you can wedge something between the brake lever and handlebar and duct tape it in place, or use my preferred method of just being careful and not grabbing the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2902" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T23:30:05.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7036" CreationDate="2011-11-24T05:17:35.723" Score="4" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed a new fork on a bike I'm building up. I find that before I get the preload tension correct on the top cap to remove knocking, a squeaking sound starts emanating from the steer tube area when I turn the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to disassemble the whole stack tomorrow and make sure that everything is on in the right order and that nothing that shouldn't be there is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI I put the crown race on and installed all the bits of the headset and everything looks fine. Does anyone have any experience in what might be causing such a noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it makes any difference, I'm using a carbon steer tube and a &quot;problem solvers&quot; expansion plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T03:47:53.543" Title="Not finding the right tension for my threadless headset" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7019" CreationDate="2011-11-24T14:30:07.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never used one, but judging from what I've been able to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jI4Mw1CIUDc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;find on Youtube&lt;/a&gt;, they are definitely quieter than the magnetic trainers I have at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/jI4Mw1CIUDc?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T18:01:32.953" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:01:32.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7033" CreationDate="2011-11-24T17:36:56.693" Score="6" ViewCount="5659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to install one of those star-fangled nuts, but I don't do this often enough to warrant buying a special tool for it.  I usually manage to hammer the thing in eventually but in the past it has taken quite a while to get it in straight and once I even broke the nut.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reliable DIY solution using cheap bits from the hardware store?  I am currently thinking perhaps try some PVC tube and a rubber bung.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T20:30:34.570" Title="What's the easiest way to insert a star nut into a steerer tube?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7031" CreationDate="2011-11-24T19:03:09.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest solution is to use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/threadless-nut-setter-tns-1&quot;&gt;right tool&lt;/a&gt; to make sure the star nut is aligned and set to the right depth in the steerer tube. I'd really recommend taking this to a shop and asking to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/threadless-nut-setter-tns-1&quot;&gt;borrow the proper tool&lt;/a&gt;. I own one, even though it only gets used once or twice per year. I've tended to go more towards &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebikestop.com/profile_design_1_and_1_18_top_cap_and_adjustable_compression_plugaluminum_top_cap_black-HD1409.php?PARTNER=GOOGPS&quot;&gt;compression plugs&lt;/a&gt; instead of the old star-fangled nut. If you're looking for an alternative to &lt;em&gt;using the proper tool&lt;/em&gt;, you can thread a bolt in the nut and tap carefully with a hammer, or perhaps use a dowel or socket of the appropriate diameter instad of a bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T19:03:09.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7031" CreationDate="2011-11-24T19:19:46.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with &lt;em&gt;ewwhite&lt;/em&gt; above, using the right tool will save you a lot of hassles and having to go to the shop with your tail between your legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, as also mentioned, threading the bolt into the star nut and tapping in carefully can work.  Watch the alignment since the star nut will tend not to insert evenly.  If you have a longer bolt you can insert it through the cap and then into the star nut.  Then use the cap to help with keeping the bolt aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2909" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T19:19:46.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6856" CreationDate="2011-11-24T19:20:43.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recessed mount isn't a new thing. It's been standard on road bikes since the mid-1980's. Either way, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Harris Cyclery has several nutted models&lt;/a&gt; available for the situation you describe. You're relegated to brands like Tektro, as the major component manufacturers cater to recessed mountings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T19:20:43.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7031" CreationDate="2011-11-24T20:30:34.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end I put the nut bottom-up on an old piece of carpet, held the forks upside down and struck the nut into the steerer tube with medium force.  It went in fairly flat. Then I screwed in the bolt and tapped it in carefully.  It's actually quite straight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I'd recommend this method: I may have just been lucky this time.  I do have the forks on now though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T20:30:34.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7029" CreationDate="2011-11-25T03:47:53.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out what was causing the problem. I had used the compression ring in the place of the crown race. I did this because I lost the crown race and the compression ring looks similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI crown races for threadless headsets aren't standard, if you need to replace one you have to get one that matches your make and model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T03:47:53.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20" CreationDate="2011-11-25T16:34:58.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cross country - hydraulic disk brakes with small rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For downhill - hydraulic disk brakes with big rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1582" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T16:34:58.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7039" CreationDate="2011-11-25T16:56:22.900" Score="38" ViewCount="64459" Body="&lt;p&gt;My new chain is totally coated in lube. I would never ride a bike with a chain like this normally. All that goop is just going to collect flotsam from the road and wear out the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I clean this coating off the new chain too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="10840" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T19:24:01.720" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T07:06:37.593" Title="New chain is pre-lubricated, should I clean it before use?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7038" CreationDate="2011-11-25T17:39:00.943" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coating is generally a form of wax, which is an excellent chain lube, and less apt to attract dirt than most chain oils.  All you really should do is wipe off (with a dry cloth) any excess.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wax seems excessively heavy you can add a little solvent to the cloth, to just wipe off the outer coating.  You want to leave the lube on the inside of the chain, where it's really needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T17:39:00.943" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7008" CreationDate="2011-11-25T21:19:39.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to adjust a rear derailleur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with the cable disconnected, put the shift in the lowest gear. screw the barrel adjuster all the way in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the derailleur jockey wheel should be sitting parallel to the smallest cog. If not, adjust the limit screw appropriately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull the cable &quot;finger tight&quot; under the bolt and tighten it fairly hard with the appropriate wrench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift all the way to the largest cog. Be careful with the last shift as it may push the chain into the spokes. Adjust the limit screw so that the largest cog is parallel with the jockey wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shift all the way down again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shift consecutively up through the gears; if you miss a shift, look at the jockey wheel. It will not be parallel with the appropriate gear, being too close to the frame. Unscrew the barrel adjuster until the jockey wheel is parallel again. Continue doing this until you've shifted all the way to the largest cog.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat step 6, but shifting down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-11-25T21:19:39.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6779" CreationDate="2011-11-26T01:23:34.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem, which I solve by blowing to the side, and then wiping my nose on my shirt sleeve. When my wife found out what I was doing, she crafted a velcro &quot;snot rag&quot; that wraps around my forearm. Works well and easier to launder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2914" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T01:23:34.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2011-11-26T07:06:29.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need the jacket for warmth or wind protection, then get an appropriate jacket for the conditions. The reflective properties of the jacket are secondary. I would not purchase a reflective jacket simply for the sake of reflective materials; rather, I would purchase a good quality jacket for the conditions and then supplement my clothing or bicycle with lighting and reflective strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One point that often gets lost when discussing reflective materials is that they have a very limited range of visibility. They work great with direct illumination (or when using a flash), but are virtually useless if viewed from just a few degrees off angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific scenario I have encountered numerous times were reflective materials are useless (and is a frequent cause of accidents) is when a vehicle is travelling perpendicular to the cyclist and pulls in front of or into the cyclist. Usually, a cyclist is travelling down a road and a driver pulls out of a driveway or cross street. Reflective materials will alert the motorist to your presence about the moment the car hits your bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  &amp;lt;----- Car (Driver looking to the left cannot see reflective materials)&#xA; ^&#xA; |   (Not illuminate by car lights here...&#xA; |    virtually invisible with reflective materials)&#xA;Bike  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reflective strips are a vital part of backup lighting, but high quality lighting is far more effective. Flashing lights, lighting strips/tubes, or high intensity lights will be far more visible than reflective strips when you are not directly in the center of the car's headlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't buy a jacket just because you want reflective clothing. Buy the jacket because you need the jacket. If you want reflective clothing, buy a safety vest and ankle straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T07:06:29.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6977" CreationDate="2011-11-26T07:22:42.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mid range bikes commonly have a carbon-wrapped seat post which claims to reduce vibration and increase comfort. Basically, get some of the benefits of a full carbon seat post with less of the cost. I expect this manufacturer is using the same concept on the entire frame to get carbon-like ride at a reduced cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I cannot discern the difference between a carbon-wrapped and a non-carbon wrapped seat post. I know other riders who believe it makes a difference (but they were using a different brand of seatpost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's  difficult to tell if the carbon-wrap would improve the ride any just based on the description. I've ridden aluminum frame bikes that ride far better than full-carbon frame bikes that cost quite a bit more. The frame material is just one factor in ride quality and a &quot;carbon wrapped&quot; frame could be a huge improvement for the right frame design or a huge marketing gimmick for the wrong one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T07:22:42.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7047" CreationDate="2011-11-26T14:12:47.773" Score="3" ViewCount="4829" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upon replacing my rear brake pads, I noticed that my rear wheel is not properly centered.&#xA;The consequence is that the wheel is pressed against one of the brake pads, as can be seen in the pictures below.&#xA;I have a Rohloff hub where I can pull the dropout+wheel back in order to tighten the chain, but I don't know how to center the wheel horizontally.&#xA;In the final photograph (number 4) I have marked with &lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt; the dropout.&#xA;Normally, I put in the wheel by turning the bicycle upside down and then let the wheel into the dropout, going &quot;all the way&quot;.&#xA;But If i do so, it results in the rim being pushed against the brake asymmetrically.&#xA;If I slightly raise at &lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; and then close the quick release lever, the wheel is free from the brake, but it is not very stable, I think it's not the normal situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheel appears centered if I test the distance to the axle when putting it on the floor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p8dc6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wheel aligned&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gHAjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wheel aligned&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dropout looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TpXPc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dropout&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: how do I keep the rear wheel centered in the axle and straight for my bicycle (Rohloff hub with longitudinally movable dropout, Magura HS33 rim brakes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nhcu0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brakes not aligned&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNz93.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brakes not aligned&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqilG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wheel not centered&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oo6tB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mechanism&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears the wheel is straight, but it was not centered. I have those pads on both sides, and one side was pulled back much more than the other. I determine this based on the length of the visible part of the thread. I fixed it now, but I think the reason it keeps going bad regularly is because one of the screws is missing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pyszu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pads-1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kB2S1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pads-2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the void in the second picture...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember that I unsuccessfully hunted for such a screw, but then concluded that it's not essential and continued cycling. But I can't anywhere in this area find a screw with an inbus-head and the right diameter. I used a screw with another head, but couldn't tighten it very well and — as I found out now — it fell out again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2018-02-14T12:22:12.650" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T12:22:12.650" Title="Rear wheel not centred, presses against one of the brake pads (Rohloff hub, Magura rim brakes)" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7044" CreationDate="2011-11-26T14:50:25.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a non-derailleur bike with nuts on the rear axle, and horizontal dropouts, the way to adjust the wheel angle is to pull the chain-side axle all the way back against the chain, tighten the nut just on that side, then slide the other end of the axle forward and backwards until the space between the tire and the chain stays is equal on both sides.  Then tighten the second nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike appears to have a quick release and vertical dropouts.  I can't tell from the photo, but it appears that there may be some sort of a &quot;chain tug&quot; on the chain side.  A bit more complicated, and hard to &quot;grok&quot; with the relatively poor quality photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the basic idea is that you need to move one axle end forwards/backwards relative to the other until the spaces on either side of the tire are equal.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T14:50:25.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7038" CreationDate="2011-11-26T16:49:09.217" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the brand. Most brands used to use a heavy packing grease that was very tacky and an absolute dirt magnet. It's more of a preservative for the metal than a lubricant. Some manufacturers have moved away from that type of grease to a lighter lube that you can use out of the package (Shimano moved to this lighter lubricant if I remember correctly, SRAM has not). Regardless of brand, if the new chain feels overly tacky you can use your favorite lube and over-apply it to the chain then give it a thorough wipe down to remove the excess. Your lighter lubricant will combine with the heavier lubricant and help remove it. You can also use a non-water based solvent on a rag to achieve the same result, just be sure you re-lube the chain afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T16:49:09.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7044" CreationDate="2011-11-26T18:43:21.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Rohloff hub with rim brakes (HS33, for the sake), with vertical dropouts, but I also have a single speed bike with horizontal dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a procedure much like Daniel Hicks suggested, but in a different order, as to assure everything is fine. So, you should follow these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the wheel is true AND symmetric. You can do it by finding out a bike with vertical dropouts, removing the tire from the wheel, and fitting the wheel with this second bike upside down. Measure the distance from rim wall to one of the sides of the frame. Then, you mount it in reverse (with sprocket pointing to the wrong side) to make sure that distance is the same. If not, the wheel is dished (should never happen with Rohloff), and you should use a spokes wrench to bring the rim to &quot;center&quot;. Most probably, a bike shop is the recommended way to do it, but only if you think your bike shop's mechanic knows better than you (sometimes, they do not).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming the wheel is symmetric, you should mount it in the frame WITH BRAKES REMOVED, in order to make the wheel centered relative to the frame. Since your dropouts are Rohloff OEM, you should: &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace your missing bolt in the first place (always use a washer!!); &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen these bolts so that the dropouts slide freely; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the wheel's quick release while the axle is fully inserted into the dropouts ON BOTH SIDES; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the chain engaged around the sprocket, slide the chain-side dropout fully backwards so the chain is properly tensioned, and tighten the two dropout bolts; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the rim sideways, near the brake posts, so that there is the same distance between rim wall and frame tubes on both sides; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the remaining two dropout bolts, on the other side;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only then, install the brakes so that there is the same distance (the manual recommends 2&amp;nbsp;mm) between brake pad and rim. Maguras are a bit tricky to adjust, so again, if you're in doubt, ask a mechanic, but remember that some mechanics (depending on the place you live) don't &quot;capture&quot; the subtle essence of correct setup of Maguras.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps described seem complicated, but they are necessary to guarantee, in this order, that your wheel is true, centered on the frame, the chain &quot;tension&quot; is correct, and the brakes are setup properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike setup is fairly complicated because of Rohloff OEM dropouts, but mostly, I think, because you use rim brakes with moving dropouts. It means that, for every chain's lifetime, each time you have to compensate for chain slack, you have to mess with four small-sized Allen bolts, AND hydraulic rim brake setup. The brake has to be adjusted in this case because, if the dropouts move back, the rim moves back and the previous brake setup is not valid anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope all this helps, and good luck! And PLEASE, replace that missing bolt!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="36363" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T18:41:16.970" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T18:41:16.970" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7038" CreationDate="2011-11-26T19:53:21.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always find it more worthy to ride the new chain as is, and clean it when needed. Since if you'll need to clean it anyway, at least take advantage it is already lubed, although with a less-than-ideal lube. I use KMC chains, by the way, and they are in the sticky end of the spectrum, but I didn't perceived any dust-attracting property, at least not more than any other lubed chain, wiped to remove excess or not (I never remove the excess, but try to put just the &quot;right&quot; amount of oil, not an easy goal although...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T19:53:21.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-27T04:49:55.793" Score="9" ViewCount="3102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often carry gear in a pannier on my bike rack, as in the photo below (not my bike, but same pannier design. My actual bike frame is very different; I'll upload my own picture tomrrow):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iPCdV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two panniers, but typically only use one because I usually have to carry the bag around with me at my destination, and carrying more than one bag becomes cumbersome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I run into is that when fully loaded (not beyond capacity, but close to it), my bike tips over when I prop it up with the kickstand. I always put the pannier on the same side as my kickstand, as I've learned that it tips over easier when on the opposite side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dpr4V.png&quot; alt=&quot;my bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to prevent my bike from tipping over when the pannier is too full? The easiest solution would be to distribute the load between two panniers, but that's impractical because of the challenges with lugging around two bags once I'm at my destination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do there exist kickstands with some sort of platform on the bottom to help stabilize them? Is my kickstand not positioned/attached correctly? Or is there some better way to balance things out so that my bike won't tip over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastEditorUserId="262" LastEditDate="2011-11-27T06:22:36.157" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T16:36:05.520" Title="How to prevent my bike from tipping over when using just one pannier?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;kickstand&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7049" CreationDate="2011-11-27T06:01:41.303" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a few options here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a two-legged kickstand. These are primarily used with heavy touring loads, but they will help stabilize the bike when parking with an uneven load. The two legs fold up into each other when you disengage the kickstand. You generally cut these with a hacksaw to shorten them to the appropriate length. I used one for a while: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/3207972007/in/set-72157612683731153/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0dEz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bike with two leg kickstand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that may be overkill. You might look into what's sometimes called a brake-band by the maker of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.click-stand.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click-Stand&lt;/a&gt;, an add-on for a parking stand for touring bikes. (The stand itself - a kind of tent-pole-like thing with a rest on the end that the bike leans into - would likely be overkill for am everyday use like this.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This'll hold the brakes on while the bike is parked, and stop the bike from rolling while parked. (You can purchase them from the click-stand site, or just make your own with pieces of velcro.) Here they are, hanging on the side of my bike in between uses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/3759454469/in/photostream/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JxBl1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brake bands and click-stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you're not too picky about your paint job, you can simply decide to go without a kickstand and just lean your bike against a wall or a pole, or lay it on the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T06:01:41.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7049" CreationDate="2011-11-27T06:13:10.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Further to my comment on that being an amazing rack, maybe it's contributing to the problem?  It's hard to tell from the picture (and you say it's not your bike, but you have a similar rack), but it looks like the pannier is held farther from the wheel than it would be with a conventional rack that has stays that bolt to braze-ons near the rear dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is that if you put the pannier on the opposite side to the kickstand, when the bike is tilted towards the stand, the weight will be closer to centered and the bike should be less likely to tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T06:13:10.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-27T11:09:37.047" Score="3" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've taken the rear wheel off my bike but the rear gears are stuck and do not spin freely anticlockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had been out of use for about 4 days, kept in a dry garage. I took the wheel off because it was bent, then found this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what's happened or if i can fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2903" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T17:52:19.730" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T21:08:22.883" Title="Rear gears don't turn anticlockwise" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7052" CreationDate="2011-11-27T13:45:36.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the freewheel/freehub is frozen, apparently.  Generally nothing to do but replace that component (repair is possible but difficult).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are two other possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look between the big gear and the hub to make sure there's nothing (eg, a pebble) jammed in there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nuts on the axle (including some you can't see) may have somehow become overtightened.  You can try loosening the nuts you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; see and see if that improves things, but you might as well take the wheel to your local bike shop since they have the tools to take it apart and know how to adjust it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T13:45:36.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7052" CreationDate="2011-11-27T15:12:26.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most probably rust and/or old grease inside the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try spraying WD40 into the freewheel, waiting overnight, and trying to &quot;break it free&quot; the other day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there could be other problems, like the ones Daniel Hicks cited. It would be fine to add more detail to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T15:12:26.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7061" CreationDate="2011-11-27T15:28:16.910" Score="11" ViewCount="13123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I notice a lot of cyclists with massive sculpted calf muscles, especially the kind that clearly ride as a life-style without worrying about minimizing body weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've switched cities, and gone from a 7km round-trip commute to 25km round trip. I've been cycling hard as a hobby and often clocked 200km or more per week. After 6 months, I find that it's my quads that are getting larger, and my quads that are sore and tired after long rides, while my calf muscles feel hardly involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this suggest something wrong with my technique and/or posture? Should I be working to involve my calf muscles more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly relevant: I cycle with a pretty aggressive bent-over posture, on a touring bike with drop bars. I use clipless shoes and have been working on applying more power in the upwards-stroke. I ride with my seat relatively high, but comfortable and I'm certain I'm not over-extending my legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T10:28:05.853" Title="I feel long rides exclusively in my quads, should my calf muscles be doing more work?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2011-11-27T16:21:37.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that this is a function of every cyclist being slightly different. It's not a bad idea to have your bike fit checked by a knowledgeable professional though. Just keep in mind that this isn't an exact science, and comfort may override some recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something that you can evaluate yourself is the smoothness of your cadence. Are you applying even force throughout the pedal stroke, with both legs? Do your hips stay level while pedalling, even at high cadences. Answering no to one of these questions may indicate a seat height issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T16:21:37.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6940" CreationDate="2011-11-27T16:36:14.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the trainer creates excessive vibration/noise, that would make it difficult to be productive. Notice that the rider in the article is on a concrete floor, which won't shift, and should deaden the sound of the trainer. I know that in my home, it's hard to even watch a movie when on the trainer, and when upstairs, the vibrations can be heard clearly from outside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using a quiet trainer, with a tire that interfaces well with the roller, and a stable, noise dampening surface is a must. Surfaces like carpet over chipboard will not work well, Tile on top of thick plywood should be quieter, and concrete is probably best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2011-11-27T16:42:29.613" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T16:42:29.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7049" CreationDate="2011-11-27T18:29:53.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pannier which unclips easily from the rack, and which I then take to use as a bag. I don't leave it on the bike, full, when the bike is parked (I take it with me). Even if I did leave it on the bike that wouldn't tip the bike: because the bike has no kick-stand, I park it locked to an upright bike stand or post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T18:29:53.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2011-11-27T18:33:54.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might matter where your cleats are: whether they're more forward under the ball of your foot, or more rearward under the arch of your foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T18:33:54.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2011-11-27T19:55:19.770" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a technique known as &quot;toeing&quot;.  Basically, as you turn the crank with your feet your toe angles up and down -- up at the top of the stroke and down at the bottom.  This makes use of some of the strength/energy of the calf muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to do this well you must be riding with the ball of your foot on the pedal (generally implying toe clips or &quot;clipless&quot; pedals).  If you ride with the arch of your foot on the pedal then toeing does little good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a good cyclist will have a (semi)conscious forward/backward motion with the legs, pushing forward at the top of the stroke and pulling backward at the bottom.  Probably doesn't involve the calves much, but does contribute to overall power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T19:55:19.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2011-11-27T22:24:01.090" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you have a problem here. Physiologically, your thighs are the engine room of your legs. They are designed for endurance and power and can keep working at a high output for extended periods of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your calves are more for short bursts of power, such as jumping or sprinting. They can't sustain high power output for any length of time. In distance cycling, your calves should be fairly passive. Attempting to work them harder will probably just result in fatigue and injuries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T22:24:01.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-27T23:05:06.670" Score="5" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages of ordering a bicycle from a large online retailer, for example Bikes Direct (i.e. not Walmart's website)? What should an inexperienced bicycle shopper be aware of when buying online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2920" LastEditorUserId="634" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T03:06:57.480" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T03:06:57.480" Title="Buying bicycles online" Tags="&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-11-28T21:33:26.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7062" CreationDate="2011-11-27T23:20:12.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a legit company. Many of the bikes they sell are not really name-brand bikes—they're house brands. As I understand it, Mercier and Windsor are old bike marques that went defunct, and BD bought the names and sell their bikes under those names. There is a certain misplaced snootiness about this, since almost all these name-brand companies outsource their manufacture to a few giant factories in China or Taiwan and slap their own decals on. BD's other bikes are remainders from other companies, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of their bikes skimp on the specs, substituting lower-cost parts in places you won't notice (like the bottom bracket). Of course, lots of name-brand makers do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally there's the assembly. I don't have direct experience with BD bikes, but I've read unkind things about the quality of assembly. Since you're buying a pig in a poke when you buy mail-order, you don't have a chance to see if the wheels are true and evenly tensioned, that sort of thing. In that respect, you really are getting something worse than you'd get from a reputable local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know what you're getting when you order, they're fine. But you could be buying a bundle of problems caused by poor assembly. You're definitely not buying name-brand cachet. And might not be buying a bike with quite as good specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T23:20:12.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7066" CreationDate="2011-11-28T09:08:54.957" Score="5" ViewCount="7213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old bike I bought from ebay that looks to be '80s vintage. I'm converting it to a single speed. I have some new(ish) wheels that I plan to use. I tried to just slot in the existing wheels and struck the following problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The axle would not fit into the dropouts as it's too big.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The axle also wouldn't fit between the dropouts as the space between the dropouts is too narrow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if I could mount the wheel the brakes I have don't reach the rims, as the distance from the dropouts to the brake mounting point is too great.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think I will upgrade to a new fork. My question is how do I ensure that these measurements will be correct for a new fork? I've measured a fork from another bike that I know fits with my wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The axle is 10mm diameter (on the old fork it's 7.5mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The inside measurement between the dropouts is 100mm. Outside measurement is 110mm. (On the old fork, it's 95mm and 100mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The distance from the dropouts to the brake mounting point is 355mm (on the old fork it's 375mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/fixie-track-road-bike-fork-cr-mo-1/DS-309&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this fork&lt;/a&gt; fit? It looks like it will but I'm not sure if the measurements supplied are inside or outside. I'm aware that it's for a threaded steerer and I know it's a 1&quot; steerer tube (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6959/are-modern-forks-compatible-with-older-style-bikes&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for the information about the existing fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since the replacement fork is 20mm shorter from the dropouts to the brake point is that going to throw out the angles of the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I bought the fork and it's a great fit for the wheel. The offset against the original fork is less than I expected, somewhere between 10-20mm so the handling is not too bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T00:02:34.243" Title="How do I measure a fork for suitability?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7065" CreationDate="2011-11-28T09:53:32.887" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The overwhelming majority of modern road forks are designed for 10mm axles and 100mm-width hubs. (Since the hub width is the important measurement, it's the inside measurement between the dropouts which should concern you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've ensured that the wheel sizes are the same (700c), the largest concerns are the axle-to-crown measurement; or very nearly what you're measuring as &quot;the dropouts to the brake point&quot;, the steerer length, and the fork's rake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Axle-to-crown. As you've surmised, changing this will modify the angles of the bike. Increasing it will rotate the bike back, slackening the head and seat tube angles.  Reducing it will steepen them.  Unless you've got a particular desire to change the handling of your bike and are willing to work out the geometry (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/forklengths.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see Damon Rinard's article for starters&lt;/a&gt;), it's advisable to keep it as close to &quot;as-designed&quot; as possible.  3-4mm is a minor change. 20mm is significant. It will also reduce the range of tire sizes you can run and most likely require new brake calipers, as they typically have only 20mm of total adjustment.  I don't actually see the axle-to-crown measurement on the fork you have linked.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Steerer length. This is the amount of steerer tube from the top of the fork crown.  On the fork you linked, the steerer length is listed as 250mm, with the top 130mm threaded (leaving 120mm unthreaded).  You'll want to remove your current fork and measure the steerer tube.  If it is longer than about 220mm (rather long) it probably won't have enough room for you to install the headset and get everything threaded on - you'll need a longer fork.  If it's less than 150mm (rather short) you may not have threads far enough down the tube to tighten everything, so you'll need to get more threads cut at a local shop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fork rake. This is the distance that the axle is offset from the centerline of the fork.  Changing this dramatically will also change the handling of the bike, so try to stay close to what you have now unless you want to work out the maths. You can measure it by having a friend hold the old fork vertically and then sighting down the steerer:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://alexandchristine.smugmug.com/photos/146708372-M.jpg&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of resources to learn more about how fork rake affects handling, &lt;a href=&quot;http://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/2007/05/trail-fork-rake-and-little-bit-of.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dave Moulton has a good introduction&lt;/a&gt;.  The fork you have linked doesn't show a rake measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.030" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T09:53:32.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7070" CreationDate="2011-11-29T04:53:53.657" Score="4" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will a bike with 11&quot; frame and 20&quot; wheels be suitable for 120 cm high child?&#xA;Is there general recommendation about what should I pay attention to, when choosing a bike for a kid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will &lt;a href=&quot;http://2011.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=shred_2-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kona Shred 2-0&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=68715&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ghost Powerkid 20&quot;&lt;/a&gt; fit the requirements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T12:31:33.830" Title="How to chose a right sized mountain (or all-terrain) bike for a kid?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;children&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2011-11-29T07:27:57.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to answer that question, because people and bikes can be built in many different ways. Bike fit is a complex art, but here's the crude and simple version: have the rider straddle the bike's top tube, feet flat on the ground. If there isn't at least a couple inches of space between bike and crotch, then the bike is too big. On the other hand, you don't want it so small that your knees are hitting the handlebars while pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a bike that's mainly ridden on pavement, you want the seat high enough so that the legs are &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; fully extended at the bottom of the stroke. For off-road riding, or for kids that are still learning to ride, you want it lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T07:27:57.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7065" CreationDate="2011-11-29T07:59:54.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It'll probably fit. You might have to cut the steering tube to the correct length. (Use a hacksaw with a miter box, then a file to smooth the edges. Make sure to clean up all the steel filings before you install it - you don't want that stuff getting into the bearings.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll change the geometry of the bike, which will affect handling, but hopefully it won't be too drastic. And that fork is cheap enough that you can afford to experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built a bike a lot like this - new fork on an old frame, and fixed gear. A potential problem you should be aware of is toe overlap. My new fork has a much lower rake than the old one, so the wheel's further back, far enough that sometimes my toes can hit the tire when turning. This is actually not as bad as it sounds, since it only happens at extremely low speeds. When turning at moderate-to-high speed, you don't turn the handlebars very far at all. A lot of track bikes have major toe overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T07:59:54.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2011-11-29T09:46:28.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know either of the bikes you mention, but the main thing to measure is the inside leg measurement, not the total height of the child as this is the most critical to get right for the bike fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One UK company which specialises in children's bikes is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.islabikes.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Isla Bikes&lt;/a&gt;. Their website has some very good measurement guides that ensures a good fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your child has set their heart on one of the bikes you mention, I would recommend taking them down to the LBS to try them out for size before purchasing. There's no substitute for trying it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T09:46:28.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2011-11-29T12:31:33.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to look at is &quot;standover height&quot;.  The child should be able to stand straddling the bike with both feet flat on the ground (and still comfortable clearance for &quot;the valuables&quot;).  This is usually a bit easier on &quot;mountain&quot; style bikes, but don't take take too much advantage of that or you may get a bike that is too large overall.  And if the bike really will be ridden off-road you want more clearance.  But getting a bike that's grossly too small is not a good idea either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, look at seat height.  If this is a &quot;starter&quot; bike then it's best if it's possible to lower the seat enough that the child can sit on the seat and with his/her toes balance the bike and push it along.  However, there needs to be enough adjustment range built in so that the seat can be lifted high enough to get (nearly) full leg extension at the bottom of the stroke (plus a little extra for growing room).  (Start raising the seat a half-inch at a time once the child is steady on the bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally &quot;reach&quot; -- generally if the height is right the reach will be OK, but check it, since some small bikes are actually built for larger kids.  The child should be able to grasp the handlebars without having to lean forward more than a little -- we're not wanting to see an aero crouch here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that for the first two measurements you can work from leg measurements, if you don't want the child shopping with you.  (Use your best judgment regarding &quot;clearance&quot;.)  &quot;Reach&quot; will generally be OK if the bike is reasonably &quot;normal&quot; in form-factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T12:31:33.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7074" CreationDate="2011-11-29T15:18:29.180" Score="4" ViewCount="1214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told once that kickstands warp the frame when used, especially when the bike is laden down, and that some materials are more susceptible to this than others. Is there any truth to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T16:51:53.180" Title="Do kickstands damage the frame by being used?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7073" CreationDate="2011-11-29T16:51:53.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 36 years of experience using kick stands on cro-moly (steel) and aluminum frame commuter bikes and several years working in a bicycle shop in which time I have never seen any such &quot;warping&quot;.  Its the kick stand itself that may be in jeopardy when the bike is &quot;laden down&quot;; there are center balance kickstands for tandem and other heavy/awkward bikes.&#xA;The more likely damage you will get from a kickstand is from over-tightening where it is attached to the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2931" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T16:51:53.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7038" CreationDate="2011-11-29T17:46:47.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend leaving the manufacturers grease in place but I know it's seems a bit over done on some chains. If it seems like it'll attract too much dirt you could take a degreaser like Clean Streak and spray some on a rag and then make one quick pass around the left and right sides of the chain. Avoid getting the degreaser in contact with the rollers along the top and bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T17:46:47.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7005" CreationDate="2011-11-29T18:45:23.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Daniel's trying to say that in an effort to reach the largest audience motor makers opt for a hub design because it is the cheapest. They're certainly the cheapest after-market upgrades. Motors that interact with the drivetrain can be more efficient but require solving engineering problems and so the cost goes up. Using the bike's transmission allows the motor to stay within an RPM range that can maximize power output for the energy used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All motors have a sweet spot of efficiency vs power output and RPMs. Check out this &lt;a href=&quot;http://clevercycles.com/2005/07/31/motors-and-bicycles/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article by Todd Fahrner&lt;/a&gt; of Clever Cycles describing motor performance. His choice to make &lt;a href=&quot;http://clevercycles.com/products/stokemonkey/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stokemonkey&lt;/a&gt; an external motor that drives the cranks is to allow you to shift normally and keep the motor RPM in the sweet spot of the efficiency curve of the motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ebikes.ca/simulator/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;great simulator&lt;/a&gt; that'll let you play around with different setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Endless Sphere forums are a good place to check claims from manufacturers. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=25496&amp;amp;start=15&amp;amp;sid=fa10805de74245b2e898931d6722ca3f&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; where a large grain of salt is being applied to the claims from Busettii&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full Disclosure: I used to work at at Clever Cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T18:45:23.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7079" CreationDate="2011-11-29T22:03:12.663" Score="6" ViewCount="11194" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's it called when you pull a wheelie and hold it while you ride around on just the back wheel?  I learned the term as a kid and I think it started with &quot;c&quot;, but I could be wrong or the term could be wrong.  It's been bugging me ever since I found this site and went through the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index&quot;&gt;glossary&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_bicycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia's&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm specifically looking for something to distinguish riding on the back wheel from  stopping on it (a manual).  Both involve pulling up the front wheel (a wheelie). shufler's answer captures this distinction, so I'm just looking for other words for it at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T06:40:23.880" Title="What is it called when you ride around on your back wheel?" Tags="&lt;terminology&gt;&lt;tricks&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-29T22:18:11.300" Score="2" ViewCount="3107" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was a kid I started learning to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7077/what-is-it-called-when-you-ride-around-on-your-back-wheel&quot;&gt;ride around on my back wheel&lt;/a&gt; and it was really difficult.  Then I tried doing it on a crappy CCM mountain bike we had (rather than my nice Gary Fisher Piranha) and it was much easier!  I could ride around balanced on the back wheel for a full minute, and was able to do other tricks more easily as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reasons unknown to me, the CCM was much easier to balance in that position.  I'd like to fool around on my bike and learn some more tricks, but if I buy a new one it will be a mountain bike.  Which leads to my question: What do I need to look for in a mountain bike if I want to be able to do this stuff?  I can imagine it's related to the following, but I don't know exactly how:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shape?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight distribution&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CCM was heavier and taller, if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="961" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T13:24:17.563" Title="What should I look for in a mountain bike for doing BMX-style balancing tricks?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;tricks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7077" CreationDate="2011-11-29T22:57:39.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Balancing on your back wheel (with the front wheel in the air) while pedaling is called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Catwalk-on-a-Bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;catwalk&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry about the wikihow link, it was the only source I found other than youtube)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It seems the wikihow link is dead. As far as I can tell a manual is leaning back and raising the tire but not pedaling. I found a couple of other links that make reference to it being called a catwalk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Basic-Bike-tricks-and-Skills/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basic Bike tricks and Skills&lt;/a&gt;, user Wesley666 comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Not a Wheelie.  Its a Cat Walk.  A Wheelie you stay seated and ride on your back tire.  If I am correct you actually stand up and pedal up and keep pedaling, which is a Cat Walk.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBFDZYbgtaI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Learning how to catwalk wheelie&lt;/a&gt; -- this video is specific to a dirt bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very possible that catwalk is a regional term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2934" LastEditorUserId="2934" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T03:44:04.793" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T03:44:04.793" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-30T02:14:22.113" Score="2" ViewCount="1102" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some good tires to install for riding the roads in snow, ice, other winter conditions? Besides letting some pressure out for better traction, what tires should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2936" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T15:40:06.443" Title="Good tires for road riding in winter weather?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;weather&gt;&lt;ice&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-30T02:17:33.143" Score="1" ViewCount="3558" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2681/29-wheels-what-advantage-do-they-provide-over-smaller-wheels&quot;&gt;29&quot; wheels - what advantage do they provide over smaller wheels?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do 29 inch wheels make a difference off road? They certainly cost more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2937" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T10:31:28.487" Title="Do 29 inch wheels make a difference?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;trails&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2011-12-23T15:24:32.000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-30T02:25:59.133" Score="4" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I find a biking club that has a group for riding with kids in a trailer? I prefer to ride in a group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2939" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T16:48:05.543" Title="How can I find a biking club that has a group for riding with kids in a trailer?" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;children&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7080" CreationDate="2011-11-30T03:15:16.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Snow and ice are two entirely different conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For snow more or less standard &quot;mountain bike&quot; tires are generally fine.  Lowering tire pressure is NOT usually a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any amount of ice you need studded tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T03:15:16.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7081" CreationDate="2011-11-30T03:23:55.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where you are going to notice the difference is in clearance of &quot;obstacles&quot; because of the bigger diameter of the wheel objects you go over seem smaller, therefore, making it easier to roll over them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2945" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T03:23:55.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7091" CreationDate="2011-11-30T03:41:54.963" Score="2" ViewCount="1272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 6'2&quot; 185-195 (depending on time of season) and ride a full suspension cannondale scalpel and was wondering how many psi should I have front and back shocks for trail riding? No big drops or jumps really just a standard type of single track. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2945" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T13:07:04.160" Title="Suspension pressure" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2011-11-30T03:55:50.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet for all around tire in the winter is going to be a cyclocross tire. They are made to race in grass, snow, on pavement, in sand, singletrack, and just about any way possible. They also have different types of treads for different conditions. You can't beat the Hutchinson Bulldogs, if you are looking for something more affordable, maybe the Maxxis Locust CX. CX tires offer low rolling resistance in the center of the tire, and have good grip on the sides. A less aggressive tread would be found on something like the Kenda Happy Medium. Give those a shot this winter and you shouldn't be disappointed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2946" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T03:55:50.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2011-11-30T04:33:52.720" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be due to your bike fit, but there's a lot of power in your quads, and if you will note a lot of pros (very noticeable track) cyclists have large quads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this might help you, it shows what muscles are responsible for what part of a pedal stroke:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3s4Mx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3s4Mx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/QFYRPdV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/QFYRPdV&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CqWbW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CqWbW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://njcyclestudios.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/power.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://njcyclestudios.files.wordpress.com/2015/01/power.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T10:28:05.853" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T10:28:05.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-30T04:38:41.973" Score="12" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at used bikes but I'm worried that I will get taken advantage of because I don't know a lot about bikes. Are there key questions or things I should look for when shopping for a used bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2948" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T22:35:11.500" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T14:47:42.667" Title="What can I do to be sure I'm getting a fair deal when buying a used bike?" Tags="&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7089" CreationDate="2011-11-30T04:46:19.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One important thing is to give the bike a test ride, and feel it.  You can tell a lot that way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the frame over well, look for dents, scratches in the paint (and rust, if the frame is steel) make sure the wheels are sound.  The components, everything.  Just give it a good look all over.  Anything broken should be fairly obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also ask a lot of questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T04:46:19.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7086" CreationDate="2011-11-30T04:50:35.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It varies by shock/fork and manufacturer. You should consult the tech specs for the specific shock and fork on the manufacturer's website or contact their tech support. I know that's a lame answer, but that is exactly what your mechanic SHOULD do. The actual PSI number is more of the result of the sag measurement, but, the recommended PSI by manufacturer is a great starting point. Your sag is the amount of travel in your shock or fork as a result of you just sitting on the bike in riding gear (no bouncing, or severe movements). For my fox Float RL, it has a recommended air pressure by rider weight, so you would put 95 PSI, if you wanted a plush ride you'd adjust that air pressure for 1 3/8&quot; of sag, if you are looking for an XC set up you'd want 7/8&quot; of sag. Your fork may be way different though, this is why you need to contact your manufacturer. Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2946" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T04:50:35.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-30T04:57:58.107" Score="33" ViewCount="94003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm bike shopping for my first road bike, and I've asked for a lot of advice from my father who was a serious cyclist once upon a time.  After showing him one prospective bike, he dismissed it with a simple &quot;you don't want a triple&quot; with zero explanation on why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons in having a Triple, vs having a Double crankset?  Does it differ from road bikes, to mountain bikes?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T08:42:23.197" LastActivityDate="2020-06-20T10:39:08.323" Title="Triple vs Double chainring?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2011-11-30T06:40:47.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The positive of a triple crank is a greater range of gears.  A triple crank will give you a lower low gear which may be useful for climbing steep hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The negative of a triple crank is weight.  You have an extra large gear which will likely weigh around 8 or 10 ounces.  Since those ounces are on a part of the bike that rotates, they matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you plan to ride up really steep hills, a triple crank can help.  Otherwise you probably don't want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I recently purchased a bike with a triple crank and wish now that I'd gone with the double crank.  I almost never use the lowest gear, so it's just extra weight.  Of course I don't climb any steep hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2949" LastEditorUserId="2949" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T07:01:03.290" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T07:01:03.290" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2011-11-30T09:03:23.310" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea used to be that a triple was just a double with an extra small, 'granny' ring (i.e. only grandmothers would need to use that one) so there was definitely some snobbery in a triple; that it was designed for those who needed a little more help. So on the club training run, you might be teased for it. (Google for 'triple granny ring' for various forum discussions and banter; don't worry, most of the responses are SFW.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practically, what it tends to mean is not necessarily a bigger gear at the top (i.e. big front ring &amp;amp; small back ring) but a much lower gear at the bottom, for the hills. So with the same rear cassette you might compare a 50/34 double for a 50/39/30 triple (although a 50/34 is probably more what is called these days a 'compact'). That range of triple combined with a typical rear cassette of 12-28 would work for most hills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also get a lot more options; so you'll get the similar effective ratios in several ways, because the ranges on the big ring overlap more with the middle, and the middle with the little one. Also, the gears are closer together - so you're more likely to find something that works well at the right time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also easier to change on the front ring of a triple, on a compact you'll often need to change down a gear or two on the back when you move on to the bigger front ring, which means the chain is being yanked both ways and strained that bit more. But on the triple, you're not as far away, so you'll often not need to change the back at the same time as shifting the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T10:47:17.240" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T10:47:17.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7089" CreationDate="2011-11-30T12:29:58.653" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;With any bike the most important thing is &amp;quot;fit&amp;quot; -- is the bike too tall, too short, too much &amp;quot;reach&amp;quot;, too little?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a bike to have a good basic fit you should be able to stand over it flat-footed and have &amp;quot;comfortable&amp;quot; clearance at the crotch.  For bikes with lower than normal top bars (eg, many mountain bikes), you should pick a bike that would be comfortable even with the top bar at the &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot; height.  And for &amp;quot;real&amp;quot; off-roading you want more actual crotch clearance than for more normal riding.  But too much crotch clearance is a signal that the bike may be too small for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike should also be tall enough that you can raise the seat high enough to have your legs nearly completely extended at the bottom of your pedal stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When riding, the &amp;quot;reach&amp;quot; should be comfortable for your style of riding.  For casual riding you want a shorter reach and more upright posture than for racing or aggressive off-roading.  However, for really tall, long-torso people a &amp;quot;casual&amp;quot; reach can be too short for even casual riding, forcing the rider to curl his torso too much, and short people, on the other hand, may have to use a bike that's a hair smaller than ideal to get the most comfortable reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you ride it is it stable (but is it also responsive -- there's a trade-off).  And obviously you want a bike that suits your needs -- multispeed or not?  &amp;quot;Road&amp;quot; vs &amp;quot;mountain&amp;quot;?  Upright or &amp;quot;aero&amp;quot;?  Can carry a load with a rack, or is stripped-down for lightness and speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Checking the bike over:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything should be parallel (except, perhaps, the chain on a derailleur bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stand straddling the front wheel looking toward the back of the bike.  With the front wheel centered you should be able to look down and see the tire &amp;quot;disappear&amp;quot; under the frame tubes, with it not peeking out more on one side vs the other (which would indicate a warped frame).  Similarly, the front and rear wheels should be exactly in line, not one more to one side than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the derailer.  When the arm of the derailer is moved it should stay parallel to the wheel.  Look at the chainrings.  When the crank is turned, the chainrings shouldn't wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standing over the top bar, grip the rear brakes and move the bike forward and back.  There will be some &amp;quot;spring&amp;quot; in rim brakes, but there should be no &amp;quot;rattle&amp;quot; sensation.  Do the same with the front, only also feel for any looseness in the headset bearings.  There should be no detectable looseness in the headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the bike (and preferably with the bike upside down or suspended in a stand) shake the wheels, feeling for any looseness in the wheel bearings.  Likewise shake the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, obviously, check for serious rust, things that are seriously dinged, scratched, etc.  A few scratches on a well-used steel frame is not a reason to reject the bike, though (unless you're looking for a &amp;quot;perfect&amp;quot; specimen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T01:08:39.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7089" CreationDate="2011-11-30T12:49:55.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only one thing to add to the other answers.  Be aware of a frame with a brand new coat of paint.  From experience I have found that this is done to cover defects in the frame.  In my case the down tube had a slight crack in it that the new paint covered over and after a quick test ride it the crack was still not visible.  A couple of months later we found that the crack had opened up and the tube had to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T12:49:55.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2011-11-30T12:57:58.203" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the simpler the better, and a triple is a little, er, &quot;crankier&quot; to maintain and use than a double.  But on most bikes it will mean that you have both a slightly larger large gear and a significantly smaller small gear, in addition to having closer &quot;jumps&quot; between gears.  Exactly how this all will work out depends on the manufacturer's choice of sprockets, of course (or on your choice of after-market replacements).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though bicycle snobs may turn up their noses at triples, there's very little wrong with them and a lot that's &quot;right&quot;.  The only two negatives are a slight increase in difficulty shifting the front derailer (minimized with properly adjusted indexed shifters) and the negligible additional weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T12:57:58.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7086" CreationDate="2011-11-30T13:07:04.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find a good starting point is to set the PSI so you lose about a third of the travel to sag on the front and rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then go and ride...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did it bottom out?  Did it feel to marshmallowy in technical bits?  Are you losing too much energy to pedal bob?  Then up the PSI.&#xA;Did it feel harsh and forgiving.  Then lower the PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no magic answer for you, it depends on how active the suspension is, your weight, the terrain, etc.  Only you know when it feels right, and that takes experimentation.  Also just about all forks and shocks have at least external rebound and compression adjustment, the same applies to these controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T13:07:04.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7081" CreationDate="2011-11-30T13:16:25.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compared to 26&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are heavier and/or weaker.  They force frame designers to lengthen chainstays making bikes handle less well, as well having knock-on effects for rear suspension travel path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think they are another gimick standard, their lower rolling resistance may outweigh the negatives for mild off-road XC, but for anything else stick to 26&quot;.  Your wallet will thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T13:16:25.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7077" CreationDate="2011-11-30T13:19:36.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pulling a wheelie and holding it - isn't that just a wheelie?  Unless you have stopped pedaling, and then it becomes a 'manual' or 'manny'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manual: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/sME1mhAnrf8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheelie: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/mhvuEa9CjBM?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T06:40:23.880" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T06:40:23.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7078" CreationDate="2011-11-30T13:24:17.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want a very low stand over height, short chainstays, steep headangle, and little to no suspension.  If you still want to use it for general mountain biking stuff, then look at street or dirt jump bikes, rather than trials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T13:24:17.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7081" CreationDate="2011-11-30T13:56:09.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I switched to my 29-er in september, I can keep up with the fastest bikers in my &quot;team&quot;. Before that I just could not. It could be due to the new material, but I think there's a speed difference of about 2 km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bike on the flat tracks of nothern Belgium and the south of the Netherlands. So no climbing or descending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 29-er is definitly faster on (loose) sand, and mud. And a lot more comfortable on tree-roots and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sett_%28paving%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Belgian Blocks&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For really, really small turns, I notice the wheelbase is larger, but otherwise I do not notice any difference in handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T13:56:09.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7115" CreationDate="2011-11-30T15:21:20.383" Score="8" ViewCount="4797" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question was posted on the excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikehacks.com/bikehacks/2011/11/helmet-help.html&quot;&gt;BikeHacks&lt;/a&gt; website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't have a hack, but a question. My head measures 66cm. I can't find a helmet that fits. Even ones that go to 66cm are too small. I've considered looking into motorcycle helmets. Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JBSN4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;big helmet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll post a link to this question under the blogpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T05:38:37.557" Title="Helmets for big heads" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7080" CreationDate="2011-11-30T15:40:06.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different tires for different conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bare/wet roads I've been real happy with my Continental Grand Prix 4-Season with Vectran tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With snow, it depends on the clearance through your brakes...&#xA;On a typical road bike with standard brakes, you may not have enough room to add tires with traction. If you have a cyclocross bike or bike with V styled or even disc brakes, you can put on something with a bit of traction for snow and packed snow conditions. I like the Challenge Grifo 700x32c Black/Brown Clincher. On my mountain bike, I love to ride in the snow and use Kenda Nevegal tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to not ride in icy conditions, but you can create your own 'studded' tires with zip ties. About every 2 inches cinch up a zip tie around your tire and rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T15:40:06.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-30T15:55:52.380" Score="8" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a tire like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/1788&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Marathon Winter&lt;/a&gt; be used for winter-long commuting (40 km/day) on roads which are mostly or usually not icy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might want the studs occasionally (and lower the air pressure to get them), but not on most days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is Toronto where it's subzero at night, with snow etc., for about 4 months (it's snowing today for the first time), but they plough and salt the roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't want to have to swap the tires daily or weekly depending on the weather: only once a season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T21:13:16.337" Title="Ice tires for winter commuting on non-icy roads?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7117" CreationDate="2011-11-30T16:03:29.600" Score="9" ViewCount="8025" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically when changing gears from middle chain ring to smallest, the chain will sometimes get 'sucked' up between the inner chainring and chain stay. It seems to happen more often in muddy conditions. I keep my drive train clean and lube my chain often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the bike new and maybe 1200-1500 miles on the original chain/derailers.&#xA;I have swapped out the original (aluminum) inner chainring with a new steel chainring and still get chain suck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T20:19:29.713" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T06:31:21.420" Title="What causes chain suck?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7107" CreationDate="2011-11-30T16:16:18.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem to have answered yourself, but there are a few causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;worn chain / cogs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rusty cogs, especially toward lower gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dirty cogs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T16:16:18.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7106" CreationDate="2011-11-30T16:17:54.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried this a few years back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't much point if you're not riding on ice. Just get a standard road tire. If you're riding that much on normal roads, the nubs will be mostly worn off for the odd time that you are one ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T16:17:54.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7081" CreationDate="2011-11-30T16:28:01.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think about rolling over a tree root, or rock, or really anything on a mountain bike, the bigger the tire, the easier it is to roll over these obstacles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The angle created by the 29 inch tire is less than the angle of a 26 inch tire, so it rolls up and over with less effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also gain more ground clearance, the larger tire elevates your bottom bracket, chainrings and pedals allowing you to roll over larger obstacles as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T16:28:01.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7082" CreationDate="2011-11-30T16:35:40.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask around your local bike shops for any groups or group rides. Then ride and get to know some of the other riders if they have kids and want to group ride with kids/trailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biking community here is quite large and I don't know of anything like this, I suspect once you introduce yourself to a club or group, you may need to be the driving force and organize this sort of group ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T16:35:40.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7106" CreationDate="2011-11-30T16:46:10.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the tires would be durable enough (my winter commute in nearby Kitchener, ON is about 20 km/day and my Marathon winters hold up pretty well) but they're definitely going to feel more sluggish than a road tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're normally running them with enough air pressure to keep the studs clear of the pavement, I think that kind of defeats the purpose of them (and that much pressure makes the ride a little harsh for my liking as well). Carbide studs will last as long as the carcass of the tire holds together, and there's always a chance of running into an icy patch &lt;em&gt;somewhere&lt;/em&gt;, even if 99.5% of your route is bare and dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T16:46:10.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7082" CreationDate="2011-11-30T16:48:05.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides talking to individuals in your local bike shops, you can look for 'recreational' or 'touring' clubs. A Google Search for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=bicycle%20touring%20clubs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Touring Clubs&lt;/a&gt; turns up clubs like our club in Utah, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbtc.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bonneville Cycling Club&lt;/a&gt; (formerly the Bonneville Bicycle Touring Club).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger recreational or touring clubs will usually rate their group rides by a couple of measures like distance and average speed, and will sometimes classify rides as drop/no drop (meaning that in a 'no drop', the group slows to the speed of the slowest rider).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick the slower and shorter rides to begin with, and be prepared to be fully self-supported.  I would welcome riders with a trailer or trail-a-bike on most of my recreational rides, but it can be frustrating if those riders really can't hang with the regulars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally - try to preview the group's route if possible.  Most recreational group rides stick to quieter roads with wide shoulders, but you need to be aware that with the trailer you will be much harder to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T16:48:05.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7104" CreationDate="2011-11-30T17:44:10.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this post from Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/bighead.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Helmets for Large Heads&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2954" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T17:44:10.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7104" CreationDate="2011-11-30T18:00:26.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Try multiple shops. Try multiple brands and models.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head shapes vary, so it's possible that one &quot;66cm&quot; (26in) model will be too small and another &quot;66cm&quot; model will fit.  It's worth trying multiple shops since most shops will only stock one or two brands of helmet and only carry one model intended for larger heads.  Having an idea whether your head is long or wide might help. It's hard to measure your head properly with a measuring tape, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/&quot;&gt;Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute&lt;/a&gt; website has a page about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/bighead.htm&quot;&gt;helmets for large heads&lt;/a&gt; that gets updated when new models come out.  It seems that 66cm is the largest size for bicycle helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find any sort of multiple options, a helmet that fits lower on your head and wraps more around the sides and back is better than one that perches on the top of your head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a motorcycle helmet that fits, that should provide as much or more protection as a bicycle helmet.  I believe motorcycle helmets are measured against a higher standard.  The problem with motorcycle helmets is that they're heavy and tend not to have as much ventilation as a bicycle helmet, so it might be uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note on sizes: &lt;strong&gt;66cm = 26inches = XXXL = 8 1/8 UK = 8 1/4 US = 9 1/2 FR.&lt;/strong&gt; Those last few are hat sizes, but many helmets seem to have the hat size type sizing info easier to find.  Look for helmets with those sizes or larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have big head issues, but luckily most of the big-head helmets do fit.  I've had good luck with the &quot;Specialized Max&quot; line even though the official sizing printed on it is smaller than my hat size. I think they're a more rounded rather than circular shape on the inside and that makes all the difference. I'm not recommending this model for you, however, I'm recommending you check out the big helmet options at multiple shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T18:08:58.080" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T18:08:58.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7106" CreationDate="2011-11-30T18:19:35.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It boils down to this: if you use your bike when the roads are icy, get them. If you take the bus on those days, don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that they're more useful not so much for icy roads, but more for icy sidewalks (sometimes I have no choice), icy parking lots, parks, or other passages where they don't put salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing, they're as bad as regular tires in &quot;greasy brown icy slush&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2959" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T18:19:35.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7107" CreationDate="2011-11-30T18:20:51.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem you describe is caused by either a badly worn cog, a rear derailer with insufficient &quot;tooth capacity&quot; (given the gear combo you're using), a seriously deficient rear derailer tension spring, or a chain that is simply too long.  A worn chain will tend to exacerbate things, as will a chain that's &quot;sticky&quot; from grease or mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T18:20:51.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2011-11-30T18:32:00.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, pure road bikes don't have a triple crank. It's a cultural thing, like admitting you're not strong enough. There's something macho about it, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That, and weight. When you pay an extra thousand $ so that the bike be a bit lighter, you're not going to want to add unnecessary weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then again, it all depends on the geography where you ride and your physical condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure out what type of riding you're going to do and get the bike that fits the needs. And if you want a triple crank, don't not get one just because your father told you not to get one. It's you that's going to ride the bike, not him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2959" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T18:32:00.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-30T19:01:55.840" Score="1" ViewCount="2435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased a Cyclocross bike that's been great so far.  I use it to commute and race.  However, I don't find the cantilever brakes that came with it satisfactory.  I'd like to switch them out, but am not sure which would be best for what I do.  Right now I have Tektro CR720 Retro-Style Cantilevers.  They don't seem to have much stopping power.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations on an upgraded brake.  I'll stay with the cantilever, but need something with more stopping power?  Might I just need to switch out the pads?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2962" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T17:59:44.023" Title="Cantilever Brakes - Cyclocross" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7119" CreationDate="2011-11-30T19:21:52.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well configured cantilever brakes should give you good stopping power. Start by making sure that the braking surface and the surface of the pads are clean. You can clean the braking surface with steel wool, and the pads should just need to be roughed up with a coarse sand paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that your pads aren't below the minimum wear line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cantilever pads are harder to adjust than most other kinds of bicycle brake pad, but the principle is the same. The pads should rest one or two millimeters from the rim when not engaged. See here for a better run-down on how to adjust them than I could supply:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T19:21:52.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7000" CreationDate="2011-11-30T20:01:31.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't attempt to install disk brakes on a bike that wasn't wasn't built for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your frame supports disc brakes, I'm guessing it wouldn't be cost effective: You'd need new hubs, the brakes themselves, and possibly new brake levers and shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yes, disc brakes perform beautifully regardless of the weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2959" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T20:01:31.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2011-11-30T21:08:23.087" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the others have stated, there's nothing wrong with any various drive train types (triple, double, 1x, single, etc). Compact drivetrains and triples are becoming more common because they provide an easier set of options for casual riding. A traditional double for a road bike may be more than most people want for casual riding. For example, if you take a brand of bike and look at their entry road bike it will typically have a triple or compact. The high end bike will often have a traditional double or compact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience (read, my opinion) a triple does offer a couple of &quot;cons&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance for a triple is a bit more complicated. Instead of adjusting a front derailleur for two positions you have to adjust for three positions. This is not preventatively more difficult, just with more options there is more to get right for proper shifting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A triple creates more chances at cross chaining. This is where the chain is at an excessive angle which can cause wear. With a triple you can arguable be in any gear on the rear cassette without issue if you are in the middle chainring (although it's still not recommended), you &quot;lose&quot; more of the cassette when you are in the small or large rings. Again, this is just something you learn to deal with but I personally found to be annoying in certain situations (racing and mountain biking).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1661" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T21:08:23.087" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7089" CreationDate="2011-11-30T22:16:02.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lift the bike so one wheel is off the ground and spin the wheel. Look at the rim where it meets the brakes, and see how much it wobbles. Ideally, the wheel should be perfectly round, but this is pretty rare on used bikes. Deviation of 2 mm or less is pretty good; 5 mm means it should get fixed; 15 mm means it's beyond fixing, and the wheels are garbage. (This assumes the bike has rim brakes; with disk brakes, the tolerances are a little more generous.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for loose spokes. Grab a spoke between two fingers and gently shake it - if it's installed properly, it shouldn't move at all, if it feels like it's not firmly attached, then you have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the tires. Worn-down tread is not necessarily a problem (unlike car tires), but watch out for cracked, brittle-looking rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T22:16:02.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7142" CreationDate="2011-11-30T22:29:47.280" Score="3" ViewCount="18222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed a new sealed bearing in my bottom bracket. Unfortunately after tightening it most of the way, it jammed and I realised I'd cross threaded it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then removed it and reinstalled it. It tightened up no problems and seems secure now. I went for a short ride and it appears to be working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to use this bike as a fixie build and am planning to put a fair amount of effort and expense into the frame, so I don't want to continue with this bike if I've damaged the bottom bracket significantly. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Bottom_Brackets/Bottom_bracket_overhaul#Beware_of_damaging_the_threads_in_the_frame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; indicates that I may have done irrepairable damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given that it now appears to be fine, how can I tell if I have damaged the bottom bracket? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is damaged, are there methods to repair it, or should I discard the bike and get another donor bike? I don't want to put a lot of work into this frame and then in 12 months discover that it's not usable long term&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T01:32:50.330" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T13:09:47.757" Title="Cross threaded/stripped bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7119" CreationDate="2011-12-01T00:14:49.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess you are struggling with a lack of stopping power? Ben Delaney from VeloNews has a funny take on it: &quot;’cross brakes don’t slow you down, but instead just squeal to warn the guy in front of you that they’re about to be rammed.&quot; (He also wrote a great review of the brakes I am about to suggest: &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/10/cyclocross/%E2%80%99cross-brake-check-trp%E2%80%99s-new-mini-v-brake-and-eurox-magnesium_145253&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/10/cyclocross/%E2%80%99cross-brake-check-trp%E2%80%99s-new-mini-v-brake-and-eurox-magnesium_145253&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1040&amp;amp;catid=185&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1040&amp;amp;catid=185&lt;/a&gt; they are linear pull cyclocross brakes. They should provide more than enough power. If that's not enough power for you, you could do a full blown V-brake like the shimano XT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are stuck on the look of cantilevers, try avid shortys, I run avid shorty 4s on my bike, but the Avid Shorty Ultimate seem to be pretty awesome, too. they work just fine for commuting and cross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2946" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T00:14:49.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7104" CreationDate="2011-12-01T00:47:18.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large head and Fox XLs are nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2965" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T05:38:37.557" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T05:38:37.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-01T04:30:31.660" Score="10" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had prescription glasses but might like some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My left eye doesn't focus easily (I ride on the right side of the road, in Canada). If I look over my left shoulder, I can see behind me only using my left eye (the field of my right eye is obscured by my nose). It's hard to see what's moving towards me and how fast, at a glance using one eye, because the edge-detection is blurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think I want driving glasses which:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let me focus towards infinity (that'll be the optometrist's job)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Great peripheral vision: so I look through the lens even when looking sideways (i.e. behind)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other: clear, polarised, rain/snow-resistant, durable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell me anything about this? Lens materials, frame styles (with specific examples), or anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T07:20:04.250" Title="Prescription eye glasses and shoulder checks" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;glasses&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-01T06:27:51.280" Score="3" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek 7200 (Alpha aluminum frame) and it has two water bottle holder mountings, the top braze-on on the seat tube seems to have broken from over-tightening and has sunk into the frame. These braze-ons are recessed into the body of the frame tubes, as if they were somehow attached from the inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to repair this braze-on? Is it something some super-glue could help with, or am I looking at a permanent wound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastEditorUserId="1944" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T02:18:10.803" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T02:18:10.803" Title="Possible to repair a pushed in braze-on?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;braze-on&gt;&lt;bottle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7129" CreationDate="2011-12-01T06:54:16.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bosses in aluminum frames are typically &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/water-bottle-fittings&quot;&gt;rivet nuts&lt;/a&gt;, aka &quot;pem nuts&quot;, which have a head that should be too large to slip back into the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your frame, it sounds like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/calvins-corner/fishing-for-the-boss&quot;&gt;Park Tool directions for securing bosses on carbon frames&lt;/a&gt; should work equally well.  The top mount on the seat-tube is also the easiest to repair using this method, so you're in luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T07:18:57.960" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T07:18:57.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7124" CreationDate="2011-12-01T11:06:29.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly clean all the metal bits floating about the BB from the threads being cut.  You can usually just look at the state of the threads at this point to see how bad the damage is.  Your eyes should be able to follow the grooves around uninterrupted, if you can wind the BB back in OK, and it tightens as normal then you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the force a BB is subjected to is perpendicular to the thread direction, the chance of it pulling out is very slim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ever do truly annihilate your BB threads (remember cross threading is a pretty common issue in engineering), you could probably get an engineering works to drill out the existing thread, press a steel shim into the BB tube, and then thread that.  I've seen it done on smaller fittings, so I don't why it wouldn't apply to larger ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T11:06:29.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7127" CreationDate="2011-12-01T12:34:49.557" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best lenses to get peripheral vision are going to be contact lenses; which I can highly recommend for cycling. I wear continuous-wear ones, where you put them in at the beginning of the month and take them out at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when you're not used to contacts (or they're quite cheap) you run the risk of losing them to various factors (e.g. wind, drying out, dust). A pair of clear wrap-around cycling glasses will help minimise these problems, and you can wear your choice of sunglasses for the other requirements. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2969" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T12:34:49.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7135" CreationDate="2011-12-01T12:37:28.213" Score="20" ViewCount="22145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Naturally, carrying a light bike up the stairs is much more enjoyable compared to a heavier bike. Are there any other aspects of a bike which are affected by its weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, would the weight affect handling at low speeds? Higher speeds? Turning? Stability in strong crosswinds, heavy rain or other adverse weather conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the weight say about a modern bike's components? About its durability or dependability? Maintenance? Wear and tear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are lighter bikes always better? What would be a reasonable weight threshold below which gains are diminishing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an inexperienced cyclist looking for a new bike, I'm unsure how much I should be paying attention to its weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: what specific weight ranges should I be looking for these days? What would be considered very heavy, reasonable, and at what weight do we enter the multi-thousand-dollar pro racing bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a cheap made-in-China fixie in Singapore (where I live); when I learned it weighs 17kg I realized why it's so cheap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2968" LastEditorUserId="2968" LastEditDate="2011-12-04T14:00:29.733" LastActivityDate="2020-07-09T01:02:51.887" Title="How does a bike's weight affect the overall experience of owning it?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7133" CreationDate="2011-12-01T13:46:21.640" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's something that should be experienced.  Go grab an old school beater bike (like my old MTB that weighs 35lbs), ride it for awhile.  Then, stop by a bike shope and see if they'll let you test drive a nice lightweight bike (usually on the order of 16-20lbs).  You'll be astonished at how much more FUN it is to ride the light bike due to the responsiveness (handling, accel, braking)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T13:46:21.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7133" CreationDate="2011-12-01T13:56:51.823" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than the obvious fact that your better quality (and better handling) bikes tend to be lighter, there's no real correlation between weight and performance (other than a modest effect on acceleration and the obvious effect on hill climbing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can generally (with some exceptions) assume that a bike that is quite a bit (like 2x) heavier than others of the same basic style is poorly made, with poorer quality components.  Eg, hubs and rims are apt to be stamped steel rather than machined aluminum, the crank is likely a solid steel one (with large, crude bearings) vs a 3-piece one with alloy arms and better quality bearings.  The spokes are probably just plated steel rather than stainless.  The pedals are probably stamped steel, and when you spin them you can hear the bearings rattle.  And the tubes in the frame will be so thick and heavy that the bike will feel stiff and &quot;dead&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there's no need for a beginning cyclist to find the lightest possible bike.  Eg, a good quality steel frame will be maybe five pounds heavier than the equivalent aluminum one, but the steel frame will be cheaper and more durable.  Other components may be heaver or lighter as well, making possibly a 10-15 pound difference between two essentially identical bikes, but beyond a certain point lighter, more expensive components (eg, drilled brake levers, ultra-thin tires) are less durable than their slightly heavier counterparts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you're still tempted to spend an extra $300-3000 to get that ultralight bike, ask yourself how much you weigh, and whether you couldn't afford to lose a pound or two.  The heaviest thing, by far, on a bike is the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T13:56:51.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7133" CreationDate="2011-12-01T14:08:55.707" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;For commuting, a heavier bike might actually get you overburned if you ride everyday. I have a 18kg bike (full-fledged mtb converted to city bike) and a 10.5kg bike (steel 10 speed converted to fixed). I use both for commuting, depending on weather and mood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically when I carry some stuff on the rear rack (then the bike is even heavier), compared when I ride light with the fixie, the difference in how I get tired is huge. Not only because of hills (there are some on my way), but also because of traffic lights which demand me to stop-and-go all the time in heavy traffic (when it's go, I actualy HAVE to GO!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if I ride on a lighter scenario (open road), the difference is the heavier bike is more comfortable, since it has more mass to absorb road irregularities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, it's worth having a heavy bike, specially if you have a lighter one to seize the extra-training earned from riding heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T14:08:55.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7129" CreationDate="2011-12-01T15:01:38.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter what you do: if you have loose metal parts hanging around inside your tubes, then your first priority is to get them out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Park Tools link in the other answer has some good ideas. My first thought would be to get a metal nut or threaded sleeve and epoxy it in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the simplest option is to not fix it at all, and just use a clamp to secure the bottle cage. Your bike shop might have clamps specifically for bottle cages, otherwise use a hose clamp from a hardware or auto parts store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T15:01:38.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7127" CreationDate="2011-12-01T15:12:05.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adidas sells a series of sports targeted glasses called Evil Eye. These can be fitted with inserts to correct whatever is wrong with your eyes (within some limitations). There's one insert with quite small corrective lenses and one with larger, the larger is more expensive. You will have to pay extra for the corrective glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corrected field of view is around 98% of the original field of view, if I have to guess. There's a range of original tinted glasses available that can be used together with the insert. These go from clear to arctic conditions compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other manufacturers offering similar corrected sports glasses but I dont have experience with those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1030" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T15:12:05.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7133" CreationDate="2011-12-01T16:43:48.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will say this much.  When I switched from a youth MTB years ago (I think it was a Mongoose?  Nothing great, just a whole lot of unnecessary metal on the frame that made it heavy) to a Specialized Hardrock that was still 10 years old, the change was amazing and it did make a world of a difference.  The combination of a lighter bike, and overall better construction and components was like night and day.  Even then, riding my Hardrock, and taking my dad's Bianchi for a test ride was even then a bigger difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, you can get a bike with a decent weight for not that much, and it is worth it-or you can go really cheap and get something heavy and clunky.  I think if you went to a bike shop, and gave a few decent bikes a test ride, you would be able to feel the difference in the handling right away.  It's easier to experience if for yourself, than have someone explain it to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think another important thing to note is the lighter the bike, typically the more expensive and therefore higher end the bike will be.  If you look at pro bikes in the TDF, they're in the 16 pound range.  Not that everyone needs a carbon racing bike.  Plus, it's only at that top pro level that the ounces start to matter.  However if you're looking at a 10 pound difference, it is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're curious, this is the specs list of second placed TDF rider Andy Schleck's bike from the 2011 TDF:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/pro-bike-andy-schlecks-leopard-trek-madone-69-ssl-28915&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/pro-bike-andy-schlecks-leopard-trek-madone-69-ssl-28915&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2947" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T16:43:48.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7140" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-01T16:53:12.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle companies are now producing cyclocross specific bikes, but beginners can use a mountain bike at some races. A road bicycle can be converted into a cyclocross bike. New cyclocross bikes are light, as you will be lifting and carrying your bike often, they also have lots of clearance around the brakes, to facilitate wider tires with traction plus allowing caked on mud to not hinder forward progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The duration of the race will depend on your age and classification, beginners typically race around 30 - 45 minutes, while top level pros go around an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T17:15:00.277" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T17:15:00.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7141" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-01T16:53:12.073" Score="0" Body="Cyclocross is a form of bicycle racing consisting of short laps over many differing terrains, typically including grass, sand, mud, pavement, rocks and anything the course designer finds at the race site. Each lap also usually includes steep run-ups, barrier obstacles forcing the rider to get off the bike." OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T17:15:02.540" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T17:15:02.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7124" CreationDate="2011-12-01T17:11:51.707" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably didn't remove material when you cross-threaded the bottom bracket shell in.&#xA;If it's a steel frame, you can cut new (correct) threads with the correct taps. The taps are quite expensive, (they have to line up, and one is upside down, find a shop or local framebuilder who has one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baring that you should chase the threads : grab old steel bb shells, cut two triangular grooves in them. You want a perpendicular cut on the trailing side of the thread. (Ask the internet for images of a thread chaser). Fill the grooves with thick grease, thread them in and out wipe it down and you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can wrap some teflon tape around the threads to make them tighter as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way you probably shouldn't &quot;invest&quot; money on this frame anymore, maintain it and once you've ridden it through, turn it into a shop stool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2970" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T17:11:51.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2011-12-01T17:18:04.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done this and it is great! I've swapped tires, but now have a spare wheelset so it is even easier to swap for a road ride versus a CX ride. I race CX from September to January around here. I use the bike as my rain bike in the spring for road rides and as my commuter year round. Totally love that I can swap tires and hit some off-road and next day be right into my commute/road rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to think about is that most CX bikes come with a compact crank set (largest front chainring may be 46 or 50 teeth on compact, 'normal' road cranks will be 52 or 53) which will reduce your high end pedaling (downhill you will spin out at 28 mph instead of 35). Not a big deal because you do gain more lower gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am real happy with my REI Novara Rivet, not available anymore, but you should be able to get a very nice bike in your price range. I upgraded the drivetrain this summer to Ultegra 6700, as I wanted the nicer gear, it was well under $1000 total, but to get a new bike with Ultegra 6700 was going to be over $2000. I was upgrading an existing CX bike, if I did not have a CX bike, I would purchase a built bike instead of building it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/cx.cfm?content=jake_the_snake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kona Jake the Snake&lt;/a&gt; this August and we've ridden and raced since and he loves it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T17:18:04.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2011-12-01T17:27:06.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can race your mountain bike at the beginner CX races around here and all ranges of beginners show up and race. Typically only about 10-15 in the beginner female group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beginner races last around 30-35 minutes and you do multiple laps. If you get lapped by the leaders you end up just completing one less lap. Always a lot of fun and very supportive of all the racers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T17:27:06.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7119" CreationDate="2011-12-01T17:59:44.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be a bit cheaper to try upgrading the brake pads before the brakes. These are the only brake pads I buy for my direct pull brakes now because they work. I use them on my older MTB and my two CX bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolstop.com/english/mountain_pad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.koolstop.com/english/mountain_pad.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T17:59:44.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7127" CreationDate="2011-12-01T19:37:08.500" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer is based on 25+ years of wearing prescription glasses and contacts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For road cycling, fitness cycling and sometimes commuting, I wear contacts plus non-prescription cycling glasses with interchangeable lenses. The lenses on the cycling glasses are clear, plus 3 different tints and densities for varying light conditions. The lens coatings are key. I personally insist on scratch resistance, anti-glare coating and you can also find lenses with anti-fog coatings and UV protection. The higher end cycling glasses usually have these types of coatings on the lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For commuting and casual riding, I usually just wear my normal prescription glasses. Your optometrist will determine your prescription, but you can specify various coatings and even the option of variable tints. Anti-scratch coatings and anti-reflection coatings are a MUST in my book. Anti-fog and UV coatings are nice but it's up to you. For the frames, most optometrists have many options and I'm sure they can help you make a decision based on your needs. You'll want to look for a sturdy frame if you'll be clipping a mirror onto the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how old you are, you may need to consider progressive bi-focals. Anyway, I've never had any issues with peripheral vison, but if it's an issue for  you just talk with your optometrist about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allaboutvision.com/lenses/coatings.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to a description&lt;/a&gt; of the various coatings. Personally, I can't live without anti-reflection and scratch resistant coatings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might check out this link as well: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1666/what-are-the-features-that-i-should-seek-in-cycling-glasses&quot;&gt;What are the features that I should seek in cycling glasses?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A note on cycling specific glasses... Most higher end cycling glasses (Rudy Project, Bolle, Oakley, etc) have the option of getting lenses with your prescription. However this is a very expensive option, especially since you'll need to replace the lenses when your prescription changes. This is why I use contacts with my non-prescription cycling glasses, because contacts are cheap.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@ChrisW - After seeing your comment... I think I'd recommend cycling glasses with Rx polychromatic lenses. Cycling glasses + interchangeable lenses + contacts is probably overkill for you. The quality brands of cycling glasses usually have that kind of option. I have Rudy Project glasses and before that I had Bolle, both of which are available with Rx lenses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T19:52:46.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7127" CreationDate="2011-12-01T20:04:11.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a year ago, I got a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oakley.com/products/6200/22478&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oakley Fives&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photochromic_lens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;transition lenses&lt;/a&gt;. They are brilliant. Really good range of vision, even when shoulder checking. Plus with the transition lenses they always provide an appropriate level of shading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The features that I like about this frame are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have excellent range of vision with large lenses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are light (I can barely feel that I'm wearing them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The arms are designed to detach rather than break so make them more durable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can accept transition/prescription lenses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think they look good :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to address your points above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit prescription lenses and your focus is sorted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These frames have a very wide range of vision&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd get transition lenses to handle various levels of light. This frame is light and strong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/420QY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oakley Fives&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T20:04:11.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7106" CreationDate="2011-12-01T21:13:16.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, studded tires aren't that great -- you're more likely to get a flat (which sucks so bad when it's -20!), and the studs only help on ice.. So if you ride on frozen lakes a lot, you should get them :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride winters in Montreal, and my favourite winter tires are narrow, knobby ones (cyclocross) -- they cut through the soft-packed snow and get traction on whatever's beneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="392" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T21:13:16.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6485" CreationDate="2011-12-01T22:52:38.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A collections of thoughts about a few of the questions you've raised. The short answer to the title question is 'yes'. Read further for some specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equipment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the budget for multiple new bikes, that's great. However, based on your apparent wants, I'd suggest the 'more serious rode bike' be a cyclocross bike. You can put slicks on a 'cross bike and it is effectively a road bike. You simply put on different tires for when you want to race/train in the mud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Winter and Spring Training&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's in your budget, definitely get a trainer. They are far from exciting, but regular sessions on the trainer through the winter will do wonders for your fitness coming into the spring. For the most part you will want to be riding so that you're sort of breathing deeply, but could still carry on a conversation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There really isn't a whole lot of point to doing anything really painful during this period, other than combat boredom of long winters. If you're into snow sports, cross country skiing is a great way to get/stay fit over the winter that doesn't involve being inside all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spring and Summer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride lots. Have fun. Listen to your body and get professionally fitted on your new 'cross or road bike, it is surprisingly easy to get injured early in a new sport. You will want to start riding faster every now and then. Find a couple of local routes or hills that you occasionally try to set personal records on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are new at the sport, so in most places your races will be &amp;lt; 40 minutes. This means you don't need to go out and hammer for 4 hours. (And shouldn't unless you really enjoy this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real specific training I'd suggest at this point in time (later summer) is occasionally do things like 20 seconds sprinting, 20 seconds soft pedalling, repeat for several minutes at a time. Take a break for a few minutes then do it again a couple of times. Do this once or at most twice in a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major reason I suggest this is because 'cross is extremely stochastic. Unlike road racing (running or cycling), triathlons or most other reasonably common endurance sports, a 'cross race is often 10 seconds flat out, 5 seconds braking and coasting around a hairpin, 30 seconds flat out, get off the bike, run, pedal carefully through an off camber corner, flat out for 15 seconds... You get the idea, but your body needs to experience this a few times before you do it in a race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Technical Skills&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I don't think you need to spend huge amounts of time on this early in your career, you also don't want to try this stuff out for the first time in a race. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a nice park nearby. Find some trees that are close together and try riding in an '8' pattern around them as quickly as you can. Do this in dry and wet conditions. Your bike will slip out from under you eventually. Learn what it feels like just before the bike washes out, this is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every race will have a part where you need dismount. Ride for 30 seconds hardish, dismount, run with the bike for 30 seconds, then hop back on and ride again. (Youtube for techniques, I'd suggest not trying the flying remount, it's generally not worth it...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Racing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've practiced, you've been riding for a year, great! Get out there and race. Do at least a lap or two of the course before the race. You want to be pretty warmed up before you start and then just cut loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of other random points. Due to the hard/coast/hard/coast nature of a cyclocross race, you will almost certainly blow up. This can be a new and exciting experience so you should be aware of it. You will want to get off your bike &lt;em&gt;Right Now&lt;/em&gt; and maybe lay down for a while. This is normal. Cyclocross is an endurance event, so you will need to occasionally lower your pace and recover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="47" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T22:58:13.390" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T22:58:13.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7127" CreationDate="2011-12-01T23:00:23.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on getting a pair of Performance Radial II glasses with inserts.  They are much more affordable than a lot of prescription or insert sport glasses.  You can also order inserts through Performance Cycles.  I haven't used them yet, so my recommendation is coming second hand--the reviews seem decent.  They come with 3 color lenses--clear, orange and gray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product2_10052_10551_1024526_-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product2_10052_10551_1024526_-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2585" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T23:00:23.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="190" CreationDate="2011-12-02T00:44:27.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple tools (both quite expensive though) that can help. It all comes down to muscle memory though, the more you spin the better you get at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.racermateinc.com/spinscan.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Computrainer&lt;/a&gt; has a spin scan to help identify flat or dead spots in your cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powercranks.com/Lance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Powercranks&lt;/a&gt; force you into leg isolation by disconnecting the cranks from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T00:44:27.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="190" CreationDate="2011-12-02T01:28:29.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are after smoothness, then pulling up may improve your game. The concept that you need to pull with the upward-bound leg/pedal  is a myth that has been perpetrated because it feels good! It may be worth doing, for that reason, alone. ;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But experts have found that max power is generated when concentrating on the downward leg while completely unweighting the other until it returns to the top of the stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to smooth out your stroke, and locate the issues you are dealing with, doing hill repeats alternating one leg or the other will def help you find the weak spots in each leg's pedal stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2974" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T01:28:29.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2011-12-02T02:08:29.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 for Jake the Snake!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After many years on MTBs, I have found Kona's Jake the Snake to be my road bike winner! I have now ridden about 7300 miles on the road in just over two years on this  cross bike, and I absolutely love it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had the money, I would jump up to ultegra or athena, but have had little to complain about with my 105 5600 group. I would avoid bikes spec'd with anything less than 105, but Shimano 105 5700 group is better than two year old Ultegra in weight and performance. In other words, lots of bang for the buck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for cranks, you may want to look for cross-specific cranks which roll with a 46/36 set of chainrings, meaning you can torque up smaller hills in your big ring, and won't be spinning out when you get down into granny. I run an 11-26 in the back, which gives quite a bit of range for climbing and descending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the question of brakes, I really like the extreme amount of modulation available via cantis, and have yet to crash because I could not stop in a timely manner. I am regularly looked upon by my fellow cycle club members for heading out as others turn off their alarm clocks and get back to bed due to wet weather. Cantis have not been an issue for me in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding tire switch for the road, go with Continental GP4000s! They are super fast, super grippy, and for their race-lightness, extremely durable. I have suffered only 5 flats during those 7000+ miles, and have ridden a good amount of time on shoulders that have cut friends' tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding my voice to the chorus saying that (bike) weight doesn't matter too much, I have worn the King of Mountain crown against many a Pinarello riding roadie in pretty good shape. ;) And the longer wheelbase and relaxed geometry makes cross bikes pretty much ideal for longer rides such as centuries. Last, and certainly not least, for the cost of a little bit of weight, you gain an awful lot of durability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2974" LastEditorUserId="2974" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T12:11:28.003" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T12:11:28.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-02T02:12:16.493" Score="6" ViewCount="14933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently started trail riding on my mountain bike and i love it, but my bike is really old (circa 1992 steel Trek with Deore LX). I really want to get a new one, but I'm also really attracted to cyclocross. Ideally i would just get two bikes, but I'm wondering if i could get just a 'cross bike and use it for trail riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do i determine if a 'cross bike would work on the trails I ride? They're beginner / intermediate trails and I think a 'cross bike should be ok, but I have zero experience on a 'cross bike and don't really know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1937" LastEditorUserId="1260" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T16:35:01.140" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T16:26:57.577" Title="mountain bike vs. cyclocross bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7127" CreationDate="2011-12-02T02:33:20.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;go to e-rudy.com and check out the &quot;rudy project rx interchangeable&quot; sunglasses (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.e-rudy.com/index_inner.php?group_id=1&amp;amp;cat_id=11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.e-rudy.com/index_inner.php?group_id=1&amp;amp;cat_id=11&lt;/a&gt;).  i got a pair in may of this year and i totally love them.  they &quot;wrap around&quot; my face like no other perscription lenses i've ever seen.  contact lenses may be your best bet, but there's a certain amount of hassle / risk that comes along with them (in my opinion).  if you're not sure about the contacts, check to see if you have a rudy project dealer in your area (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.e-rudy.com/dealer_locate.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.e-rudy.com/dealer_locate.php&lt;/a&gt;).  if so, you can try some out to get an idea if they'll work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in addition to looking cool and letting me see really well while i ride, my rudy project lenses are really good in the rain... the water beads up (like water on freshly waxed car) and blows off.  i can see very well, even in the rain.  i also got the &quot;photochromic&quot; lenses so i can ride in varying light conditions without having to change my lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1937" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T02:33:20.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2011-12-02T03:20:13.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things I would try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a friend that has cross bike and borrow it to see if it will suit your needs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most bike shops will let you demo a bike so try and get both a cross bike and a mountain bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask the local bike shops if a cross bike would be ok for the trails you are interested in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find local message boards, google / yahoo groups, local cycling clubs and see if they can offer any advice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what I would try for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2817" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T03:20:13.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7133" CreationDate="2011-12-02T04:59:02.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answers that point out handling might also be weighed against some other practical qualities, like how you use and store the bike. As cyclists, we spend a lot of time picking the thing up, sometimes shouldering it, sometimes loading it down, sometimes carrying it up stairs or high curbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a long recumbent, an Xtracycle, and a Trek 7200 road bike. I commute on all of these as my needs require. By far the lightest of my bikes is the long recumbent because it has smaller wheels, simple alumnium frame with a sparse number of weld points, and puny handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily I have a shed to store them in, and I hang them up on the wall by their front wheels. The recumbent is easy to rack. The Trek is surprising difficult because often I have light system batteries, wet tires and fenders and a robust pannier rack on it. The Xtracycle takes something more like a weighlifters belt in preparation to lift it the four inches to get to the hook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these bikes would be friendly for an apartment dweller that wanted to store their bike inside, had to deal with stairs or narrow doorways, or wanted to rack their bike on the bus. If I have to push the Xtracycle up a wet grassy slope, I'm praying my feet keep traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to conclude, more than once I've often considered retiring my domestic fleet for a single Brompton and utility trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T04:59:02.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2011-12-02T05:23:16.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my CX bike on more cross country styled trails, I leave the harder (downhill, jumps, berms) trails for my mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think riding the CX bike on the trails is better when going uphill or even flattish areas, but not as much fun being hunched over the handlebars when coming back down the trail. I really slow down a lot and take my time coming down (any  trail) when on the CX bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is rainy and extra thick mud, the 35mm tires on the CX do not feel as stable as my 2&quot; MTB tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T05:23:16.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2011-12-02T12:02:40.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cross bikes are generally ok for less serious trails where you're looking for decent speed, without the need for serious climbing, suspension and traction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've got more clearance on a cross than a road bike, but the frame is a similar size and they've generally got 700mm road size rims, so they aren't as maneuverable as an MTB. They generally don't have suspension. Tyres are fatter and with more tread than a road bike, but they'll normally only get to about 32-35mm width - MTBs will go wider. The gear ranges reflect this too - you'll be able to go faster at the top end, but the lower end gears to tackle the serious inclines will be more favourable on MTBs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general use cross bikes are great for road use with a bit of off road, where MTBs would be the other way around - especially if you're going to be going seriously off-road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'real cyclist' answer is to get both. After all, you'll always need another bike, right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T12:02:40.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7107" CreationDate="2011-12-02T12:27:27.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a chainring needed replacement (these usually last longer than the cogs), it is quite likely the cassette and chain did too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Drivetrain) maintenance is something you should get in the habit of doing if you want to get maximum mileage and enjoyment out of your bike in general, especially if you are riding in dirt and mud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2974" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T12:27:27.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4912" CreationDate="2011-12-02T13:17:16.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm left handed &amp;amp; yesterday received 2 new sets of Avid Elixir 1 disc brakes. The hose on the front brake is too short to extend to the rhs. This on a 120mm suspension fork with 600mm flatbar and 100mm 6 deg rise stem. So a pretty standard set up. The decals and clamp bolt would be upside down on the rhs. So Avid clearly intend out of the box left hand front brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too don't like this set up. I tried it once and it didn't last long before I swapped to rhs front. That cost me another £30 on hoses. So I suspect this is one reason for a lhs front brake set up. It makes disc brakes £30 cheaper for manufacturers making their products 'more affordable/competitive' although u pick up an additional aftermarket cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there may be putative safety benefits in the lhs front brake set up. It used to be said that when braking u shld use 60% power on the front and 40% on the back to prevent tipping on the front and skidding on the rear. Most people including lefties would use the rhs lever first. So you would probably be applying power to the back brake first which at speed may result in a small skid rather than a tip which is arguably more controllable and therefore safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also may be considered more aesthetic and possibly safer to have less cable crossing or tangle. But for everyday pootling I'm the same as everyone else I rarely use the back brake coz it don't have the same instant, power on, stopping speed. So here goes yet another £30 on hoses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. &#xA;Also if the front brake is on the left and u use gripshift gear changers u can brake with the front lh lever and change gears with rh gearshift. It comes back to me now, that's why I tried this set up before. Trust me, there's no real world advantage in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2979" LastEditorUserId="2979" LastEditDate="2011-12-04T12:44:33.513" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T12:44:33.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7166" CreationDate="2011-12-02T14:38:55.460" Score="7" ViewCount="4231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used my old Trek mountain bike last winter (Helsinki, down to -25C, lots of snow) for commuting to work (8km each way, roads) but it probably needs too many repairs to be worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a new sports hybrid thingy (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crescent.fi/en/hybridipyoeraet/polkupyoeraet/zetta/&quot;&gt;Crescent Zetta&lt;/a&gt;) in the summer, and it might be ok for winter use with some studded tyres. It has disc brakes and 32-622 tyres. I don't know the size of the rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 26&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suomityres.fi/w106.html&quot;&gt;Nokian Hakkapeliitta W106&lt;/a&gt; studded tyres for the mountain bike, which were very good last winter. These obviously won't fit on the Crescent's bigger 28&quot; wheels, but the W106 also comes in 37-622 (700x35c). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would 37-622 tyres fit in place of 32-622 tyres or is it too big a difference? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T15:27:25.903" Title="Can 37-622 tyres replace 32-622 tyres?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4912" CreationDate="2011-12-02T14:41:31.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know the full historical origins in general, but many cyclocross racers swap to have the rear brake on the left side of the handlebars. In CX racing you get off and on the bike many many times and almost exclusively on the non drive side of the bike. You may need to grab some extra brakes if you are comming into a dismount too fast, and many are already half way off the bike when they realize they are going too fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T14:41:31.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7089" CreationDate="2011-12-02T14:47:42.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I did not see already mentioned, you can ask the seller to let you have a local bike shop look it over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T14:47:42.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7163" CreationDate="2011-12-02T15:27:25.903" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll probably have lots of room. Mountain bike frames generally have lots of room in the fork and stays for various sized tires. But it would be best to measure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The supposed size difference in your tires is 5 mm, so hypothetically you would need more than 2.5 mm of clearance on either side between the tires and the forks on the front and back of the bike. However, you will absolutely want more than this amount of clearance for several reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;advertised tire widths are not necessarily accurate. It could easily be off by a milimeter or two. Especially if one tire is lugged and the other is not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires will move around a little when you are riding. If it's only clearing the fork / stays by 1mm in the stand, it will definitely make contact occasionally while riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have fenders, be very wary. Fenders are often designed to only fit a certain tire size. Be extra careful measuring clearances here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would only recommend investing in the sidegrade if you have 1cm clearance right now, or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a more general answer for this question to others seeking similar information, you should also check that the brake arms will clear a wider tire. It shouldn't usually be a problem with cantilever brakes, but with calipers a wider tire is often not going to fit. It's not an issue for Hugo because he is running disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T15:27:25.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7049" CreationDate="2011-12-02T15:53:13.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to roll with single kickstands and I went for a very frugal solution using a lid to a salsa jar under my kickstand. This prevents &quot;lawn suck&quot; where my kickstand would pathetically drown in my boggy front lawn, tipping over even when unloaded. I would also adjust the angle of my front tire such that it felt more stable when stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQxmHn-0fEPwDJGhhnOsGlFaaKdF-TC78V_7TXxzTGdvlbhCYn2&quot; alt=&quot;jar lid&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Distributing your load across parts of your bicycle is desirable, Ward and Niel have good suggestions. I put a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000AO9Z7K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sunlight two footed kickstand&lt;/a&gt; on both my wife's and my own bicycles, and it is more affordable than a Civia or Plesher two footed kickstand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DrYK7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sunlite kick stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, our bikes still tip over, and these are often the reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too much weight on the left or right rear &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too much weight on the top of the rack (like a milk crate full of textbooks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;uneven parking area, bike rolling (use a brake strap or improvise a chalk block)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slippery parking area (wet grass, frost)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;load too tall, try keeping the center of gravity as low as you can with your load&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, like Neil points out, you can adapt your habits. I tend to pack my panniers on the bike close to the same time, on the sidewalk or a paved path and not on a lawn whenever possible. I invested in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002T5OG5Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pakbak pannier rack&lt;/a&gt; with low top rails that give a slightly lower center of gravity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DVhNL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pakbak rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the option of using a folding aluminum pole as a bicycle stand, you would lean your top-tube or seat post against it, and it would be able to (in conjunction with the brake strap) support a heavily loaded bike on more varied terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth pointing out that if you're saving for some kind of upgrade, a used trailer is not a bad option, either, that gives you about the lowest center of gravity. Craigslist or kids clothes consignment shops often have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T16:36:05.520" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T16:36:05.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7197" CreationDate="2011-12-02T16:10:58.410" Score="14" ViewCount="112621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a folding bike from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.citizenbike.com/catalog.asp&quot;&gt;Citizen&lt;/a&gt; (like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.citizenbike.com/catalog.asp?product_category_id=1&amp;amp;product_id=1&quot;&gt;Miami&lt;/a&gt;) with dreams that I could take it on the road with me when I go to conferences but it's REALLY hard to ride very far with it. Is it because of the little 20 inch wheels?  Are the more expensive folding bikes easier to ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By, &quot;hard to ride&quot; I mean that after a few miles on relatively level ground I get tired of riding whereas on a regular bike I could ride those same miles and I'm hardly affected. Kids had trouble too... they noticed it took way more effort to ride the small bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2000" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-12-04T06:00:11.697" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T12:56:14.353" Title="What makes a folding bicycle so difficult to ride?" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7172" CreationDate="2011-12-02T16:12:24.917" Score="4" ViewCount="1504" Body="&lt;p&gt;This time of year, I leave my race (carbon) bike on the trainer and when nice enough, just ride my rain/wet/commuter/cx bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do replace the 'race' skewer with a steel skewer for trainer use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it damage the carbon if I leave the bicycle clamped and ready to train on the trainer? Should I release the clamp every time I'm done training?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T17:41:01.207" Title="Is it safe to leave my carbon bike in my stationary trainer for extended periods of time?" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2011-12-02T16:56:36.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love &lt;a href=&quot;http://strava.com&quot;&gt;strava.com&lt;/a&gt; to track my performance, my GPS collects the data, upload to strava and see where I rank for different segments of road. I can see that my friend was two seconds faster up that hill and then work harder to go faster the next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T16:56:36.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7169" CreationDate="2011-12-02T17:41:01.207" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KdIGN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cyclops fluid 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the kind you have, then leaving the bike in there should make no difference whatsoever. This trainer clamps onto the rear axle, it doesn't even touch the frame. When you're off the bike, the frame doesn't have to do anything except support its own weight - there's no possible way it could get damaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; likely to damage the bike, since you won't be knocking it over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T17:41:01.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2894" CreationDate="2011-12-02T17:59:52.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one mentioned liquid nutrition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like Perpetuem by Hammer, but there are many other options for liquid calories. I look for something that tastes good and has something more than just electrolytes, something with carbohydrates and a little protein. With Perpetuem, I can mix a thicker bottle for longer rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other liquid nutrition choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accelerade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbo-Pro &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clif SHOT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cytomax&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Endurox&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T17:59:52.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7188" CreationDate="2011-12-02T18:25:04.023" Score="7" ViewCount="2436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told by somewhat knowledgable people that drop bars aren't suitable for winter cycling in snow and ice. Is there any validity to this? If so, why, and which style of handle bar would be preferable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T19:56:10.143" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T12:56:24.943" Title="Are drop bars suitable for winter commuting?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2011-12-02T18:26:37.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Power Meter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A power meter measures your power output for training purposes. For example, riders might target interval training at a certain percent of their functional threshold power.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30709/what-is-a-power-meter-and-why-do-i-need-one&quot;&gt;This discussion&lt;/a&gt; on StackExchange outlines what power meters are and why cyclists, mostly those interested in serious competition, might want one. Power meters are ubiquitous in professional road racing at the time of writing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power meters can be mounted in various places on the bike. Note that the companies listed below are &lt;strong&gt;examples&lt;/strong&gt; and are not product recommendations, nor are the lists exhaustive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chainring spider. SRM, a German company, may have been the first company to make power meters, and they made spider-based power meters. Power2Max and Quarq (owned by SRAM) are other companies in this category. Power2Max focuses on cranksets which have removable chainring spiders. Quarq makes their own cranks instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear hub. Not long after SRM, Powertap introduced hubs that measured power. To the writer's knowledge in 2019, they're the only such company in this category.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One or both crankarms. Here, a strain gauge is bonded to the crankarm(s). To the author's recollection, these came later than the first two categories, with Stages being an early example. Pioneer and 4iiii are two other companies. Infocrank designed a full crankset from the ground up, with strain gauges mounted internally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedals. Yet other companies have placed strain gauges in the pedal spindle, e.g. Garmin (they bought a company called Metrigear), Favero Assioma, Powertap. Brim Brothers, which is now defunct, were testing a version that measured at the pedal-cleat interface. Most power pedals at the time of writing are based on the Look Keo road pedal system, possibly due to patent protection of Shimano's SPD (mountain) and SPD-SL (road) systems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The crank spindle.  Easton/Race Face and some models of Rotor cranks have spindle-based power meters. This type of power meter is relatively rare at the time of writing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The above 5 categories can be called direct force power meters (DFPMs), because they directly measure power (actually torque and cadence). One other type of power meter estimates power from air resistance, but this requires some assumptions (e.g. rolling resistance from your tires, drivetrain resistance). These units may be able to work independently to estimate power, or else they could work in conjunction with a a direct force power meter to estimate your aerodynamic drag coefficient. The Velocomp PowerPod can be a standalone power unit. The Notio Konnect appears to only work in combination with a DFPM.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Off the bike, power meters may be integrated into stationary trainers. Most smart trainers measure power directly, at the trainer's resistance unit. Without a smart trainer, it is also possible to estimate power using the bike's current speed if the resistance unit's resistance curve is known (i.e. the amount of resistance generated for a given speed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power meters in categories 3, 4, and 5 can either: a) directly measure each leg's power, or b) measure only one leg's power, usually the left, and estimate total power by doubling that. b) is obviously cheaper, but it can be less accurate. Riders with a known leg imbalance (e.g. after an injury) may want to take note of this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power meters in category 1 and 2 directly measure your total power from both legs. They may be able to estimate each leg's contribution through algorithms. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2017/08/power2max-ng-eco-in-depth-review.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some have criticized this estimation as potentially inaccurate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, power meters actually measure both torque and cadence separately, and calculate power from those two parameters. They measure torque through &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strain_gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;strain gauges&lt;/a&gt;. They measure cadence through magnets and reed switches (more rare) or accelerometers. Both processes have some level of inaccuracy. For example, InfoCrank issued a &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpdesk/attachments/production/1011652268/original/Cadence_Magnets.pdf?X-Amz-Algorithm=AWS4-HMAC-SHA256&amp;amp;X-Amz-Credential=AKIAJ2JSYZ7O3I4JO6DA%2F20190925%2Fus-east-1%2Fs3%2Faws4_request&amp;amp;X-Amz-Date=20190925T201432Z&amp;amp;X-Amz-Expires=300&amp;amp;X-Amz-Signature=97d64829ef25494ac4b340eed92e50a34ee5852ba47a8da571eb42043614e96b&amp;amp;X-Amz-SignedHeaders=Host&amp;amp;response-content-type=application%2Fpdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;white paper&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://support.vervecycling.com/support/solutions/articles/1000145011-aren-t-cadence-magnets-a-thing-of-the-past-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dated 2017&lt;/a&gt;) arguing that cadence measured through magnets is more accurate than via accelerometer (but they have updated their power cranks to measure cadence via accelerometer or magnets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bbnQH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of power meter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cycling_power_meter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="38270" LastEditDate="2020-01-06T19:32:23.690" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T19:32:23.690" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-02T18:26:37.660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5267" CreationDate="2011-12-02T18:47:56.963" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of cyclocross bikes come with inline &quot;interrupter&quot; levers that do much the same thing as these older levers without interfering with the main brake lever/shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They install in the inline with your brake cable run so you will need to cut and maybe re-cable your brake cable. You should be able to put these on almost any road bike with drop handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image Found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-levers-drop.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wzCgk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cyclocross Brake Levers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T18:47:56.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7180" CreationDate="2011-12-02T19:36:02.730" Score="10" ViewCount="2653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've already read the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1667/what-to-wear-when-its-cold&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and learned a lot!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my question is a bit different, I bike to work almost everyday, not a long ride, a few miles, a bit hilly a bit road side...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is if I wear a lot I sweat and I don't have a shower at work, but I can't tolerate the cold either (I live near Washington DC, we have some cold and specially windy days, and I leave fairly early in the morning).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions, to what I can wear (on top of my not formal clothes that I wear at work) to keep my warm and dry without making me sweat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, I am a very amateur biker!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1924" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T16:55:12.507" Title="What can I wear in the cold weather to be able to bike to work (where I don't have a shower)" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7177" CreationDate="2011-12-02T19:59:07.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the temp goes down to +5C I start to wear a jersey over my shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then when it gets down to 0C (freezing), I just put a wind-proof uninsulated Gore-Tex anorak over my office shirt (no jersey), with long pants and gloves and overshoes (for cold feet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wind-proof keeps me warm enough when I'm cycling (it's too warm when it's above freezing). Keeping the right temperature, then, is a matter of matching my exertion (i.e. more is warmer) to the ventilation/zipper of my coat (tight around my throat for maximum warmth, or semi-unzipped to let warm air out and a bit of cooler air in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T20:06:29.513" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T20:06:29.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7168" CreationDate="2011-12-02T20:26:03.073" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A well-configured folding bike that is designed for long-distance riding should not be noticeably hard to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Poorly configured:&lt;/strong&gt; Check the normal things: Are the tires properly inflated? Are brake pads rubbing? Are the wheels true? Is the chain properly lubricated? Are the bottom bracket spindle and axles free of play, not overtightened, and well-lubricated? Any of these can easily give a bicycle a sluggish feel. I don't have much experience wrenching folding bikes, but I suspect that the wheel bearings need even more careful care than usual, considering that the angular velocity of the wheel is approximately doubled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Design:&lt;/strong&gt; Some folding bikes are not designed for long rides. Not all bicycles have designs that are optimized for touring and/or distance riding. If a bike's main design goal was to have it fit in a suitcase, it's possible the designers skimped elsewhere. This isn't to say that a bike can't be designed to fit in a suitcase &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; be good for riding centuries, it just makes the design harder and therefore more expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2011-12-04T01:14:59.183" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T01:14:59.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7177" CreationDate="2011-12-02T20:29:57.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find it's important to wear a wind-breaking layer everywhere, covering as much exposed skin as possible. It's especially important to have some wind protection on your legs to protect the more sensitive areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that your extremities have thermal protection as well. Insulted gloves are a must, especially considering the alternative is to be touching the bare metal of your brake levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that I find it helps to dress down like @ChrisW mentioned. If you over-insulate your torso, that's when you'll get sweaty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T20:29:57.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7174" CreationDate="2011-12-02T20:58:38.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personal experience here, but I do not see any reason why drop handlebars wouldn't be suitable for winter riding. I have ridden extensively the past two winters with drop handlebars in ice and snow (Madison, WI). I personally find that in rougher and slippery conditions, I prefer riding with my hands in the drop position. It tends to give me better control while both giving me better access to the brakes and lowering my center of gravity a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite snow and ice not traditionally considered commuting conditions, many choose to continue biking through the winter months. There are some good resources online with the best compilation I've seen being &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikewinter.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chicago Bike Winter site.&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One caveat I will make is that bikes that traditionally have drop handlebars aren't viewed as being optimal winter bikes due to typically having thinner road-style tires. Perhaps that is what the experienced cyclist was referring to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2982" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T20:58:38.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7174" CreationDate="2011-12-02T21:08:56.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll say it as bluntly as possible. The style of handlebars on a bicycle has absolutely no bearing on its suitability for winter conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T21:08:56.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7177" CreationDate="2011-12-02T21:15:53.363" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general consensus I've seen is that you should expect to be cold for the first twenty minutes of cycling in the winter. If you're dressed warmly enough that you're not cold for the first twenty minutes, you'll swelter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your ride is under twenty minutes (this is just ballpark), you can simply dress warmly and remove clothes once you arrive at work. However, I suspect your ride is around twenty minutes long (given your description of a few miles). This gives you the unfortunate choice of 1) be warm initially but sweat towards the end of the ride, or 2) be cold initially but reach a comfort temperature right as you arrive at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure there's a good solution if your ride happens to be right around this long. You might try dressing lightly enough that you're comfortable by the time you reach work, but try to get your temperature up before leaving by sitting next to a fire or a heater vent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T21:15:53.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7124" CreationDate="2011-12-02T21:33:23.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were able to get it screwed in correctly, and nothing feels loose, then it can't be damaged that bad. I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T21:33:23.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7177" CreationDate="2011-12-02T23:52:19.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;...without making me sweat...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, you'll sweat a lot or a little. Fortunately or not, human biology will cause you to sweat. When you heat up the human body, it sweats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To control the volume of sweating = &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dress in layers of clothing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add or remove layers of clothing as needed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T23:52:19.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7177" CreationDate="2011-12-03T00:02:25.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dress appropriately for the conditions, but clean yourself once at the office. I have not used these myself, but heard enough from podcasts and fellow triathletes that this is what I would try if we did not have showers at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.actionwipes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Action Wipes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T00:02:25.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7174" CreationDate="2011-12-03T00:46:49.863" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drop bars in of themselves are fine for winter riding. However, there are some peripheral issues involved. Your average flat bars &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; offer a bit more control in slippery conditions because flat bars are much, much wider than drop bars. A bike equipped with drop bars &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; not be the best bike for winter riding. But properly configured and sized drops can be excellent for winter riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handlebar Width:&lt;/strong&gt; Drop bars tend to be narrower than flat bars. You can mitigate this by getting wider drop bars; the ones meant for touring are great for winter riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that handlebar sizing isn't an exact science, but you generally want them to be as wide as your shoulders. A lot of road bikes won't have anything approaching this kind of width. (Also, there aren't that many wide, stocky roadies.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires:&lt;/strong&gt; Road bikes--which is where you usually see drop bars--often won't allow for the fitting of appropriate tires for riding on snow and ice. Not the fault of the drop bars!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T00:46:49.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7174" CreationDate="2011-12-03T05:20:08.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides considering leverage as the only advantage of bicycling in icy and snowy temperatures, I would also consider the aspect of familiarity. My first few rides in icy/snowy conditions were quite nerve-wracking: constantly sliding right off the shoulder into the chocolate mousse or the ditch. I soon learned to avoid the treachery of the road shoulder and ride in the plowed area with the most asphalt exposed. One of the things that I felt good about was that I knew my bicycle well, and I wasn't making flustered or nervous mistakes with hand placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would recommend focusing on keeping your hands and feet warm during the ride so that you are not impacting your ability to react or distracted by your extremeties. If it takes ziplock pogies and hand-warmers, or full-on BarMitts and Lake MXZs for your feet, being relaxed and perceptive to your conditions will make your ride safer than changing your ergonomics at the last minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you do ride in icy conditions and don't have studded tires, I would recommend those, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T05:20:08.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="870" CreationDate="2011-12-03T05:36:12.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike toolkits you'll find at Walmart and the like are near worthless -- the tools are poor quality and frequently not really usable.  (Eg, the &quot;dumbell&quot; wrench that's often included is too bulky to fit in many places where you might need it.)  Either get a multitool made by one of the mfgrs mentioned in Freiheit's post or collect the individual tools you need, bought at a good hardware store, with the few specialty pieces bought at a bike shop.  Keep in mind that you don't need tools that don't fit your bike (but you may need, eg, two copies of one particular size of wrench in order to tighten some fastener on your bike, so even with the multitool you may need a few other pieces).  And don't scrimp on tools -- a poor-quality wrench can wreck a bolt to where it can't be removed from the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of oil, don't use ordinary motor oil or &quot;3 in 1&quot; -- buy purpose-made bicycle chain oil at a bike shop.  The bike shop people can describe to you the differences between the various types.  For cleaning your chain consider getting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campmor.com/park-tools-cyclone-chain-scrubber-bike-chain-cleaner.shtml?source=CI&amp;amp;ci_src=14110944&amp;amp;ci_sku=59350&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain scrubber&lt;/a&gt; (along with the appropriate chain cleaner fluid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to carry tools on your bike, the best way is with a tool bag that straps under your seat.  You can actually improvise this with just a maybe 16&quot; square of canvas and some buckle/Velcro straps (just roll up the tools into a bundle), though a purpose-made bag is nice.  For the tools that stay home, a simple plastic box or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&amp;amp;sugexp=crnk_fspiked&amp;amp;cp=9&amp;amp;gs_id=1h&amp;amp;xhr=t&amp;amp;q=tool+roll&amp;amp;tok=R3AHG1eEZs5IUhfk6FSraQ&amp;amp;biw=1024&amp;amp;bih=521&amp;amp;gs_upl=&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=3754558054663922551&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=FrLZToqILpG3twfk1_DtAQ&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CIwBEPMCMAI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;tool roll&quot;&lt;/a&gt; is often a better choice than a compartmented toolbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For removing and installing tires I'm partial to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/546083/quik-stik-tire-changer?cm_mmc=cse_froogle-_-gpeLink-_-product-_-546083&amp;amp;mr%3atrackingCode=FCA515C2-B849-E011-AFD7-001517384908&amp;amp;mr%3areferralID=NA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quick Stick&lt;/a&gt; rather than conventional tire levers -- much less chance of damaging the tube, and generally a lot faster.  However, it won't work on some particularly tight tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of how to do things, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool Company&lt;/a&gt; has an excellent web site that covers virtually everything you might want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T05:36:12.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7177" CreationDate="2011-12-03T05:40:10.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some ideas that might help as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Polypro long underwear&lt;/strong&gt; is often very affordable, it wicks sweat, and is cheaper than new wool long underwear. Wool long underwear doesn't build up a funk and also wicks, you can easily wear it for a week, and that might be equitable to the cost of a weeks worth of polypro. With polypro, you have to be disciplined about washing it. If you can change your costume when you get to work, changing out of your long underwear is probably desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fleece is pretty effective at blocking wind, I've found fleece pants secondhand, and over wool or polypro long underwear is comfortable. The fleece pants I found would also fit over well fitting jeans.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ziplock pogies&lt;/strong&gt; If you have flat handlebars, consider rigging up some 1 gallon sized ziplock bags over your grips and brakes, this will protect your hands and improve the warmth of your gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can you keep a change of clothes at work?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider a &lt;strong&gt;pirate shower&lt;/strong&gt; kit, the method with the least waste involves packing a soapy washrag in a ziplock baggie, but baby wipes work pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget that constricting socks and gloves make your hands and feet colder. I keep my laces so loose in the winter my shoes are slip-ons.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that if you shower regularly, raising a modest sweat on your ride probably won't make you stink. Cotton t-shirts can be almost as bad as polypro for raising a funk, tho. And if you do sweat, cotton t-shirts become cold wet, clingy blankets. As you continue commuting to work your stamina and pacing will improve and you will notice that those hills won't make you sweat as much. Avoid sprinting to work, postpone that urge of for the ride home :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastEditorUserId="1944" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T15:47:24.473" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T15:47:24.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2894" CreationDate="2011-12-03T05:46:00.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nabisco &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nabiscoworld.com/newtons/fruit-crisps-mixed.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Newton Fruit Crisps&lt;/a&gt; (not the crummy &quot;Fruit Thins&quot; which look more like cookies, or the Special-K Fruit Crisps which aren't half as good) are very good snacks, though unfortunately our local distributor stopped carrying them so I have to mail-order.  Target's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.target.com/p/Archer-Farms-Yogurt-Drizzled-Peach-Mango-Fruit-Bars-5-1-2-oz-Bars/-/A-13244450&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fruit/yogurt bars&lt;/a&gt; are also very good, and almost pure sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T17:54:00.107" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T17:54:00.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2894" CreationDate="2011-12-03T17:58:46.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another idea:  Dried apples.  Not the ones you buy at a store, but ones you make yourself.  Slice apples VERY thin (an apple slicing machine is good for this), spread them out and dry them in a dehydrator or warm oven until totally, crispy dry.  Then place in zip-lock bags.  They melt in your mouth, taste like candy, and are loaded with sugar (and a bit of fiber).  The only problem is that it takes about a dozen apples to make one &quot;single-serving&quot; size bag of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T17:58:46.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7177" CreationDate="2011-12-03T18:27:04.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sweat doesn't stink.  It's just salty water.  You should bring a change of clothes in a pannier. Wipe the sweat off when you get to work, and change into fresh clothes. I and many others I know do this and have no problem with body odor.  Body odor takes quite a few hours of sweat sitting on the skin to cause a problem. Use unscented baby wipes to wipe the sweat off if you are really paranoid, or just reapply deodorant (I leave some at work). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as clothing goes, I've been using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/PantsTights/PRD~5021-691/mec-roubaix-tights-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these tights&lt;/a&gt; the last 4 weeks up in Canada, and this past week it was between -5 and 5 degrees C (around freezing).  I've worn them as low as -10 (14 F) and not had a problem with the cold. I'm guessing they would be good to at least -15.  On the top I've had a cotton undershirt which really helps absorb the sweat. Also wearing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/PRD~5017-744/mec-cadence-long-sleeved-jersey-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this jersey&lt;/a&gt; followed by another waterproof/windproof Columbia jacket (can't find link) over top of that.  It get a little warm, but not overly warm, and I find that the cotton T actually helps absorb most of the sweat.  You may notice that I have quite a few more layers on top. I don't have a problem with my legs getting cold, probably because they are working so hard, but my arms and chest get a lot of wind against them, and this means they get cold if I don't have quite a few layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T00:22:25.870" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:22:25.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7168" CreationDate="2011-12-03T19:27:05.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 32 pounds, it may be even as much as twice as heavy as a nice road bike. In addition, with only 6 gears, you simply may just not be used to the gear ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When ever I get on my steel SS which is only the one gear but much heavier than my normal road bike, I do feel very sluggish as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T19:27:05.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6168" CreationDate="2011-12-03T20:29:25.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrap my chain stays with an old tube. I find it works best with an old road tube (not a wider MTB tube)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the tube near the stem (on both sides of stem) to remove the stem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wrap from rear to the front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start a few inches forward of the rear axle area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap backwards going towards the rear axle, overlapping about half the width of the tight/flattened tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once at the axle area, start moving forward, going over the few inches you just put down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the tube tight and flat, overlap about half width as you wrap all the way to where you want to finish (close to front chainrings)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the tube to length, I like to finish on the inside of the chain stay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep it closed by wrapping some electrical tape. I make sure to note get any tape on the frame, just the rubber tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find this to be very similar to wrapping my road drop handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never done any more than chain stays but have seen it on some downtubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2011-12-03T23:14:09.427" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T23:14:09.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7168" CreationDate="2011-12-03T20:42:23.690" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some folding bikes are quite good for long distances. Unfortunately, most of them seem to be optimized for short hops, by design (or by the fact of their design limitations). You're correct in thinking that more expensive folding bikes can be much easier to ride, where the  money is going for stuff like custom configuration or (even a custom-built frame). Folding bikes aren't unique in this regard, but economies of scale place additional limitations on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fit Limitations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to properly fit a bike has been covered in detail elsewhere, so I won't get into issues of seatpost height, reach, bar height, bar width, and so on. But most mass-market folding bikes seem to be built in a one-size-fits-none design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite possible to get a folding bike that's sized properly. However, since folding bikes are a small slice of the bicycle market, they're somewhat pricier. And keeping several frame sizes in circulation is even more expensive. Until more people buy folders, I think we're gonna keep having this problem. And very tall or very short people (or very heavy people--most folders have a weight limit of 200-225 pounds) have a lot of trouble finding folding bikes that will fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Frame Flex&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes that have frame hinges--like Citizens, and Dahons (and their clones) and the Raleigh 20's--are subject to frame flex. This can be combated by keeping the hinge joint tight, but many of these bikes will never be as stiff as a bike without a frame hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, when sitting in the saddle, if you can move the handlebar forward and back, you've got frame flex. Some bikes can also have a flexy stem post, creating similar problems.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The Raleigh 20 has an angled hinge joint that, I'm told, mitigates the problem. From test-riding one, I'm inclined to agree with that; the bike didn't feel flexy at all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Smaller Wheels&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, smaller wheels do tend to be a little &amp;quot;squirrely&amp;quot;, in that they're harder to control. This does tend to be more if an issue with 16&amp;quot; wheels than 20&amp;quot; wheels, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is fairly self-correcting, though, and it's something that the rider learns to compensate for fairly quickly. Until that point, though, it can impact the rider's ability to use the bike for longer rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Handlebars&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most folding bikes come with flat bars. As with all bikes, the more potential hand positions you have, the happier you'll be on longer rides. Bar ends will do this, and you may be able to fit them on the bike without compromising its ability to fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Gearing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Do you have to pedal faster with those small wheels?&amp;quot; It's a common misconception that small wheels make the cyclist work harder. When properly geared, small wheels can perform well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, many folding bikes come with three-speed hubs, for a variety of reasons. (Less maintenance, cheaper and lighter than 7 or 8 speed hubs, and derailers can get your pants leg messy when you have a folding bike on the train.) This is only an issue if you have hills, and it's not one of your specific concerns, but it is a factor for general use of folding bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, faster gears can make a longer ride more pleasurable--and shorter. My 3-speed folder tops out around 26 MPH, which means it's not so great for a long day of touring. (For some, speed isn't an issue, so this won't matter to parient riders in very flat areas.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T21:54:05.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4747" CreationDate="2011-12-04T08:13:14.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One example of a team breakaway (and by that I mean 3 riders from the same team in a breakaway where they are clearly in charge) is the 12th stage in the 1995 Tour. The famous Jalabert victory on Bastille Day in Mende. For this to happen, you need several ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hilly/twisted roads. As explained above, a fully organized peloton on straight roads will catch anybody. The hilly/twisted roads facilitate the extraction from the peloton and the chase to be truly organized. For the mountain stages, the team breakaway makes less sense as you gain less aerodynamic advantage there... &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;offensive riders. To get things started you're gonna have to attack, and probably not just once. That day, Jaja got things going early.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strong back up. While usually, you might send the &quot;domestiques&quot; first and have your leader bridge later on, that day the opposite happened. Through a series of counter attacks and thanks to the strategy on the ONCE manager Manolo Saiz, a few Jalabert teammates managed to bridge the breakaway. By the time the peloton fully organized, the ONCE had a nice 3-rider train going in the front and managed to get several minutes ahead of the peloton.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, many things need to happen to allow even such limited team breakaway. And I have the feeling that with radios nowadays, this would never happen... But there is hope that these are banned and we see a return to more &quot;instinct&quot; racing in the coming years...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2803" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T08:13:14.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-04T17:21:27.207" Score="21" ViewCount="43673" Body="&lt;p&gt;23s come on almost all new road bikes, and tire selection is much better for 23s than other tire sizes at most shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefits of 25s and 28s are a better ride, more traction, and are more flat resistance than 23s. How noticeable is the difference in rolling resistance (in fact, some people claim that running slightly lower pressures allows for better rolling resistance on most 'real-world' surfaces)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are narrow tires only for time trials racers, or do they have advantages for the other 99% of riders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2989" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T20:05:24.650" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T21:53:23.893" Title="What are the benefits of 700c23 tires?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7199" CreationDate="2011-12-04T19:34:31.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weight. The less weight on the wheels the better. Same for rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2990" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T19:34:31.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7133" CreationDate="2011-12-04T19:42:14.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rotational weight very important. So light wheels make bigger than difference than slightly lighter frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accelerating the weight of the wheel hard work. Same for crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've heard, adding one pound of rotational weight is about the same as adding 3 pounds of stationary weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2990" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T19:42:14.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2011-12-04T21:04:05.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that having only clipless pedals works too. It's not as easy to ride off with.  This is the only thing that's stopped me from switching to my combined pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2585" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T21:04:05.907" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7205" CreationDate="2011-12-04T21:42:01.680" Score="3" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has several gears labelled one to six. Do these numbers relate specifically to a certain standard? In other words, would a bike set to say gear four on one bike, perform in the same way as another different bike set to the same gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T23:33:07.590" Title="Are the numbers on a shifter standardised?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7199" CreationDate="2011-12-04T21:56:01.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, the narrower tires weigh less and have very slightly less rolling resistance.  They also create less air drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you're right that there is a tendency to put the narrower tires on &quot;road&quot; bikes, even if they're clearly not &quot;competition&quot; class.  I suspect that this is because, like several other aspects of a bike, the narrow tires are simply perceived (by most) as &quot;better&quot; and perhaps &quot;sexier&quot;, and so they look better on the show room floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And note that a cheap bike is apt to have 23mm tires rated at 85psi -- lower than optimal for many situations, while a better bike might have 27mm tires rated at 105psi.  I run my 35mm tires at 100psi.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T12:16:13.673" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T12:16:13.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7203" CreationDate="2011-12-04T23:19:32.307" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full gearing ratio of the bike (from your foot to the tire contact patch) is determined by four factors: the crank length, the chainring diameter, the cog diameter and the wheel diameter. Since these components can be changed independently, it is impossible to develop a uniform numbering system for a single component (&quot;uniform&quot; in this case means getting the same full gearing ratio from the same gear numbers selected for the chainring and for the cog).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. even if you standardize the &quot;front gear number to chainring diameter&quot; and &quot;rear gear number to cog diameter&quot; relationships, two bikes with different wheel diameters will still perform significantly differently even when the same gear numbers are selected on both of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastEditorUserId="2918" LastEditDate="2011-12-04T23:33:07.590" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T23:33:07.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7212" CreationDate="2011-12-04T23:28:34.163" Score="1" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;After finding out my bike has a road rear (130 mm) &amp;amp; disc brakes, it's been difficult to source rear hubs.  Cyclocross allows disc brakes, and more commuter/cx frames are appearing but all seem to use the 135 mm spacing...  &lt;a href=&quot;http://chrisking.com/specs/hubs_all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chris King's Universal Disc rear tandem&lt;/a&gt; has a 130 mm option, but as a two piece axle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone explain the difference, and provide pros/cons?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T06:35:05.687" Title="One vs Two Piece Axle?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7217" CreationDate="2011-12-05T00:20:20.723" Score="6" ViewCount="2495" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently got a new mountain bike for my son via craigslist, it is a couple year old &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.transitionbikes.com/Bikes_BottleRocket.cfm&quot;&gt;Transition Bottle Rocket&lt;/a&gt; and came with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.e13components.com/product_ss_plus.html&quot;&gt;E-Thirteen SS+&lt;/a&gt; chain guide/tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He would like a lower gear for when we go up the hill to get to the good downhill trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can we add a front derailleur and shifter to allow two front chain rings allowing a lower gearing for going up and one for when he goes down the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has a nice large 32 tooth on the rear cassette but still would like something a bit easier to spin up the hill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T04:14:11.667" Title="Can I run a dual crankset with a chain guide tensioner?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7206" CreationDate="2011-12-05T02:48:13.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't give you a direct answer, because I have no idea what they mean by &quot;two piece axle&quot; either. Here's what I do know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chris King components are crazy expensive, and they often require special tools (also crazy expensive). It might be cheaper to buy a new frame and a regular hub.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your frame is steel, you should be able to manhandle a 135mm hub in there. If it's aluminum or carbon, I wouldn't recommend that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T02:48:13.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7206" CreationDate="2011-12-05T04:30:36.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a steel bike, a good shop can &quot;cold set&quot; it to 135 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://chrisking.com/files/upload/hubs/ISOManual_7_11_A_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This PDF&lt;/a&gt; on the Chris King website illustrates the 2-piece axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T04:30:36.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7219" CreationDate="2011-12-05T06:18:21.540" Score="2" ViewCount="2005" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6671/road-shifters-mountain-rear-derailleur&quot;&gt;Road Shifters, Mountain Rear Derailleur?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to build a hardtail mountain bike with drop bars for commuting, touring and some occasional light off-road adventures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are 10-speed Shimano brifters like the Ultegra ST-6600 compatible with the 10-speed Dyna-Sys XT derailleurs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2959" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T15:45:37.063" Title="Are Ultegra brifters compatible with 10-speed XT Dyna-Sys derailleurs?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-07-24T03:46:31.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7206" CreationDate="2011-12-05T06:35:05.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chris King hubs have two different axle designs, both unique to Chris King.  The difference is in how bearing preload is set.  The one-piece axle uses an adjusting clamp that lets you lock the axle into place against the bearing.  The two-piece axle instead uses a doubly-threaded adjusting cone - once it is threaded correctly between the two, the two pieces of the axle tighten together to hold it in place.  The only functional difference between the two otherwise is that the two-piece axle must be used with a skewer; the clamping force of the skewer is required to handle some forces across the axle.  The one-piece axle can be used with the Chris King Fun Bolts instead of a skewer if preferred.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overall design is based around using a large-diameter aluminum axle which necessitates handling stresses differently from a more traditional hub and axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T06:35:05.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7199" CreationDate="2011-12-05T07:10:43.913" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because road bikes are meant for going fast. And a 23 mm tire is faster than a 28. Sure, it's not enough to make a noticeable difference for 99% of all the people who buy those bikes... but those people all think they're in the 1%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T07:10:43.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2011-12-05T07:14:42.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can purchase custom nuts and bolts that are tamper proof.  If you couple that with two u- locks, it would be nigh impossible to steal the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2797" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T07:14:42.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7199" CreationDate="2011-12-05T09:25:53.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Narrower tyres support higher pressures for similar constructions and, basically, higher pressures equate to higher speeds. While a wider tyre, inflated to the same pressure would present a lower rolling resistance (thorough a smaller contact patch), as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown points out&lt;/a&gt;, this different effect of two similar tyres which differ only through width is entirely the point of why they differ. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most conditions you get a more comfortable ride on wider tyres with slightly lower pressures, but to get to that point you trade-off speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher pressures also give you some inherent puncture protection - a well maintained tyre under higher pressure will repel potential sharps more effectively than a similarly constructed tyre under lower pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T09:25:53.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7207" CreationDate="2011-12-05T11:14:17.777" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common setup for many freeride bikes, as it allows uphill pedaling &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a bash guard.  However only certain models of chain guide support this, and the one your son has doesn't officially (though it wouldn't hurt to try if you have a crankset to test; it might affect the derailleur ...).  The DRS is eThirteen's 'official' dual chain guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T04:14:11.667" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T04:14:11.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6689" CreationDate="2011-12-05T12:28:08.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just had to do the same thing with ultegra brakes on my Giant Ocr C1. Filed them down so theres only a millimetre or so at the bottom. Working well so far. Only needed to adjust the rear so at least ill have my fronts if they fail :-/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T12:28:08.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7211" CreationDate="2011-12-05T15:37:28.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word, no. Different cable pull ratio on both systems. You can check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6671/road-shifters-mountain-rear-derailleur/6673#6673&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; if you want a slightly more verbose answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T15:45:37.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-05T15:46:09.617" Score="0" ViewCount="2902" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone ever use these? I'm getting these as stock on my next bike (700 x 25 on a 2012 Secteur Sport). I've been using Continental GP 4000s for years and love them. Will they be a step down or is it a good tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2996" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T02:09:20.547" Title="Specialized Espoir Sport Tires" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4747" CreationDate="2011-12-05T16:52:29.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally agree with the reasons stated so far, however a strong crosswind can lend itself to a team coordinating a split in the peloton. In a strong crosswind, the aerodynamic advantage of the group is greatly reduced. If the team director is aware of the wind direction and strength, he can tell the team to attack together when the the road turns and the group is in the crosswind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was the situation in the 2009 Tour de France when the Astana team employed this tactic.  It was ultimately brought back, but set alarm bells off in the peloton.  Recovering ground in a strong crosswind is difficult - a small gap can be held, causing the chasers to expend a lot of extra effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference to the attack here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theepochtimes.com/n2/sports/tour-de-france-armstrong-contador-garate-20097.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.theepochtimes.com/n2/sports/tour-de-france-armstrong-contador-garate-20097.html&lt;/a&gt; see the section &quot;&lt;em&gt;Garate in Early Attack&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2996" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T16:52:29.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7229" CreationDate="2011-12-05T18:50:12.767" Score="0" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cousin recently bought a recumbent bike (well, I suppose it's technically a trike) and has been having a blast with it. I'd love to encourage her new hobby and get her an accessory for it as a Christmas present. Unfortunately, I know next to nothing about recumbents and what might be useful to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, recumbent riders: what would you love to have or what do you find useful when you go out for a ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: My problem, specifically, is that I don't know what make/model of recumbent they have. So I'm looking for accessories that will work with all (or almost all) models. Not necessarily accessories that are exclusive to recumbents in particular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T00:47:02.133" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T13:28:22.897" Title="Recumbent Accessories" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2011-12-06T16:14:38.683" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7220" CreationDate="2011-12-05T19:53:44.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're getting the bike from a physical store, ask them what the cost differential would be for going with the Continental GP 4000s. They can always resell the stock tires assuming you haven't ridden the bike yet, although they may not be able to sell them as new (possibly sell them as &quot;open box&quot;). I never understood why bikes come without pedals (bike of a certain calibre anyway), but they just include tires like people have absolutely no preference.  Tires tend to be one of the things that people are the most finicky and religious about, yet you almost never see a bike sold without tires, unless you are at the point where you buy frame and wheels separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't answer which one is better, but gives you an option for getting the tires you are used to. The LBS should be understanding an accommodate  you if you want something that isn't stock on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T19:53:44.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7222" CreationDate="2011-12-05T22:28:45.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the usual stuff applies, lights, bags, clothes, trailers, special saddles, etc. I personally would love to receive some huge panniers. The problem with your question is there are no recumbent-specific accessories, only recumbent-specific versions of common bike accessories. The single exception might be a flag for added visibility, but I doubt it would make a good Christmas present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T22:28:45.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2011-12-05T23:15:21.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a high theft area.....and I have 3 bikes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nice road bike pretty much never leaves my sight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The commuter bike, depending on the location? I take the seat/seat-post with me. And depending on the location, will sometimes remove the front wheel and U-Lock it with the back wheel. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thieves want easy, intact bikes. And seriously, you can't always keep the bike in sight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally.... Never use cable locks! Snip. Your bike is gone...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T23:15:21.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7177" CreationDate="2011-12-06T00:17:05.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that merino wool tends to not get as funky as other fabrics. A layer or two next to the skin does the trick for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2959" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T00:17:05.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7049" CreationDate="2011-12-06T03:21:31.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say that putting the pannier on the opposite side of the bike makes the problem worse. This makes me think the bike isn't well balanced on the stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stand may be too short for the bike, so that the bike leans too much. Try putting a block of wood under the stand. If that helps, get a stand with a longer arm (or leg, what is that part called?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stand may be angled too much to the front. This would allow the load to pull the bike so it pivots around the stand until it falls. A stand that is angled back may help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T03:21:31.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-06T03:52:11.110" Score="6" ViewCount="1131" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/7178/1097&quot;&gt;the comment after this question&lt;/a&gt;, what should one know about wind- and water-resistent jackets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, what is &quot;Gore-Tex&quot;, is it always expensive, and is there anything else like it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for for wearing at &lt;strong&gt;near freezing temperatures&lt;/strong&gt; (I don't need &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4530/summer-rain-jacket-recommendations&quot;&gt;a summer rain jacket&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want this for commuting, an hour each way, (almost) every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm usually warm or too warm whenever it's above freezing: traffic lights, bike lanes, cycle paths, some hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when it is freezing, for an hour, I need, apart from shoes and gloves (and trousers/pants), some wind resistance: otherwise my skin arrives chilled. And cold rain can be chilling too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T13:31:47.727" Title="Wind- and water-resistent jackets" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;rain&gt;&lt;jacket&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7222" CreationDate="2011-12-06T03:52:52.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's very little you need on a 'bent trike that you wouldn't also need on a conventional bike. Rear jersey pockets are useless on a 'bent, of course, so it's nice to have an accessible place to store energy bars and stuff like that (I've used a bag that's intended to fit above the top tube, behind the stem of a conventional bike, and a small fanny pack turned sideways). Rearview mirrors are a necessity, but I think all new trikes come with them. Many trikes lack good bottle-cage mounting points, requiring you to improvise with clamp-on cage mounts; I use a Camelbak Unbottle and some webbing straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trikes often have oddball tire sizes, which you would need to know if you were going to get her spare tubes. Normal seat-bags won't fit, and some trikes don't really need them. There are recumbent-specific bike shops on the Internet. It wouldn't hurt to ask her what she got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, regular stuff: a cycling multi-tool is always handy to have (assuming you know how to use it). Likewise the typical frame pump, patch kit, lights (may need special mounting adapters), etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T03:52:52.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7222" CreationDate="2011-12-06T05:39:49.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Better than a gift certificate, get them a membership to their local bicycle advocacy group, like their state chapter or the League of American Bicyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T05:39:49.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7228" CreationDate="2011-12-06T07:14:43.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gore-Tex is a line of fabrics and outdoor clothing made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/Satellite/content/fabric-technologies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;W.L. Gore and Associates, Inc.&lt;/a&gt; They use various technologies to make breathable, waterproof and windproof fabrics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Gore brand tends to be on the expensive side. However, I think that they license out their fabrics to other manufacturers, but I'm not sure about that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/Satellite/activities/men-cycling-road&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gore cycling products&lt;/a&gt; for several years and have yet to be displeased. Rain, wind, cold, etc.... actually, I found their winter gloves to be too thin, but otherwise....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite, most versatile cycling jersey is made by Gore. The front panels are made with &quot;windstopper&quot; fabrics and the long sleeves zip on/off. Here at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/Satellite/MenJackets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gorebikewear.com&lt;/a&gt;. And I also have a 5+ year old gorebikewear jacket which appears to have a few more years left. I'll no doubt take a look at other alternatives when I shop for a new one in a few years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note based on the question, &quot;&lt;em&gt;This is for wearing at near freezing temperatures (I have decided I don't need a summer rain jacket)&lt;/em&gt;&quot; - I currently use a gorebikewear wind/rain jacket year round. This is an unlined jacket. In warm, rainy weather, it's layered with nothing but a short-sleeve jersey. As the weather gets progressively colder, I manipulate the layers beneath the jacket...so roughly, in the fall, it's a light base layer + jersey + jacket...and in winter, it's a heavier base layer + jersey + fleece + jacket, etc. Anyway, the outermost layer (jacket) is primarily for wind/rain protection; and the layers beneath are for temperature control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for me at least (in the rainy and sometimes cold Pacific NW), a single wind/rain jacket gets me through the entire year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: This link (&quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/00316.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Waterproof Breathable Fabric Technologies: A Comprehensive Primer and State of the Market Technology Review&lt;/a&gt;&quot;) is a pay-for-view ($5) article, written in 2004, which describes about five different types of fabric: how they are made, and how well they perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-12-09T17:12:56.100" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T17:12:56.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2011-12-06T10:02:39.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not want to downhill and ride hard single track without a lot of huge roots, hillock you can go with CX. If you want to have an option to ride more difficult tracks you can buy MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if your trails are more or less flat you can choose by heart. Fun from riding usually depends on your friends and physical strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3004" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T10:02:39.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7081" CreationDate="2011-12-06T10:09:51.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Comparing with 26&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&#xA;- goes more softer&#xA;- more suitable for tall biker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&#xA;- more expensive (in general)&#xA;- weight&#xA;- acceleration is lower&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3004" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T10:09:51.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7174" CreationDate="2011-12-06T12:56:24.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seasoned winter cyclist here :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drops and flats both work fine. One consideration with flats is that you are more upright, and so less vulnerable to the classic &quot;front wheel suddenly sliding off to one side&quot; in the ice/snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3005" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T12:56:24.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7222" CreationDate="2011-12-06T13:28:22.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go for lights (as @meagar suggested), a ring-ring bell, and perhaps a helmet-mounted rear-mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt anybody in the world would not like a powerful light, be it front or rear!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T13:28:22.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7228" CreationDate="2011-12-06T15:44:46.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are other brands and fabrics, I've used a few&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eventfabrics.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;eVent&lt;/a&gt; is very similar to GoreTex. Wind stopper, waterproof, breathable, my rain pants are made with eVent. I love my clothes and gloves made with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.windstopper.com/remote/Satellite/home&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WindStopper&lt;/a&gt;, a little cheaper, but not waterproof. When I first started commuting by bicycle, I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/818947/novara-express-20-bike-jacket-mens&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nylon&lt;/a&gt; jacket, made with coated nylon and taped seams. It worked well until the coating wore off. I do think it is worth it to spend the extra money and get something that works from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not seen many fully waterproof jackets that are lined for warmth, you may need to get the best shell and layer underneath. I find the wind blocking aspects keep me warm with a nice thermal base layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very similar for rain pants too. I have fleece lined bicycle pants (WindStopper material on the front) for when no rain (or very light). If it is raining, I wear leggings underneath my fully waterproof pants, which don't offer as much warmth, but they do keep the rain/wind out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T15:44:46.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2011-12-06T18:08:59.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode a high end 9-speed triple for many years. Although I rarely used the granny gear, when I needed it, I was very glad to have it.  My new bike, though, has a compact crankset (double).  With a 28 rear cluster, it goes almost as low as the triple, which had a 25.  With a ten-speed cluster, you don't lose a lot of gear spacing.  So with a 10, I'd go for compact cranks.  With a 9, a triple is still a contender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T18:08:59.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7081" CreationDate="2011-12-06T22:07:25.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I think the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/29er_%28bicycle%29#Performance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; currently offers a pretty concise view of the differences between a 26&quot; and a 29&quot; wheel without being overly biased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One item from that list, though I would also list in advantages (not just disadvantages): &quot;More force needed to change steering angle due to greater mass and longer contact patch&quot;. This can also be translated the other way: more force is needed by obstacles, trail conditions, etc. to change the steering angle. 29er's are often less &quot;flickable&quot; or &quot;agile&quot; but depending on your type of riding/needs this can be advantage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does changing the wheel size make a difference? Yes. Does it make a difference that means that it is better/worse? Not really. To further confuse things, there are two other bikes that mix things up: the 96er (front wheel is a 29er, back is a 26er) and the 650b (a size in between the two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, you'll learn to ride with the advantages/disadvantages of your wheel choice. I personally also feel the terrain you ride the most also dictates what works the &quot;best&quot;. And your own opinion as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1661" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T22:07:25.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7228" CreationDate="2011-12-07T03:24:50.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gore-Tex is a semi-permeable membrane: a fabric, like a net, but not woven: it's formed by stretching. It's made of expanded PTFE, like a spongy Teflon (and their patent was about how to do the expansion/manufacturing). A microscope shows it's something like bone, or a net, or holey Swiss cheese. The holes in the fabric layer are much bigger than air and water vapour molecules (which therefore pass through); but smaller than liquid water droplets (which are many water molecules bound together), which therefore don't pass through (water on the fabric should stay on it, until it's brushed off or evaporates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Gore-Tex is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Semi-permeable to water vapour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Impermeable to liquid water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is therefore (allegedly, more or less) waterproof but at the same time 'breathable'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes (as in my jacket) you don't see Gore-Tex. It's a middle layer, sewn in between the jacket's inner lining and outer shell. These other layers (i.e. the inner lining and the outer shell) are, principally, meant to be durable. They're woven, and have pockets etc. They also (being a water-resistant nylon fabric themselves) help to keep the sewn-in Gore-Tex from getting soaked: a sheet of water on the Gore-Tex would prevent its 'breathing'. In rain the Gore-Tex middle layer keeps the jacket's wet outer shell away from the inner lining and from my skin. In extremis (when all is soaked in very heavy rain) the Gore-Tex tries to stay water-repellent albeit no longer so 'breathable' (but in very heavy rain, I'm happy enough to be warm: and to have air inside the jacket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought my jacket 10 or 15 years ago from MEC. Even if it is expensive (and it wasn't, especially - and I liked it so much that I bought duplicates as Christmas presents for my family, and they still wear theirs too), I'd consider whether it's durable and useful. My jacket does not have cycling-specific tailoring, so I can wear it anywhere/anytime when it's wet out. Also I (among other things) reckon I save $1,500/year in bus fare by commuting by bike: so amortizing that $1,500/year over two or more years can justify spending ('investing') the money, for buying a bike and clothes, and still come out ahead, relatively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway. So my jacket has a lining etc., as well as the Gore-Tex membrane hidden away as a middle layer. The inner lining of this jacket is mesh/webbing, which helps the jacket to stand off from the body. This makes it durable, and the nylon exterior shell makes it wind-proof. I regulate my heat (when cycling) by using the front zipper: up around the throat, or down to open the chest, which ventilates the jacket. There's a velcro strap at the cuffs to regulate the ventilation of the arms (which is why I avoid wearing a jacket in summer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It used to be I think that Gore-Tex didn't manufacture clothes, but licensed the fabric to clothiers (e.g. my jacket was made and labelled and perhaps designed by Le Coq Sportif, who make sportswear). Now Gore-Tex seem to make and sell their own complete clothes? But other manfacturers presumably continue to license the fabric and use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a Gore-Tex &quot;Paclite&quot; fabric or jacket now, which I don't think I've seen/felt. I guess that's a single-layer jacket. I don't know whether that's pure Gore-Tex or otherwise how it's bonded to the shell (how it performs). I think it's aimed at cyclists. I don't know how good it is for cold-weather riding (mine, because it's lined and wind-proof, is good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to find a good selection of jackets but I don't know where. Most LBS when I ask for Gore-Tex say &quot;that's expensive&quot; and don't stock it. I don't want to buy sight unseen because all the details matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gore-Tex is still a brand and a trademark (and a company). Its patent has expired. I don't know what competing/similar products/solutions/manufacturers there are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T03:24:50.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7242" CreationDate="2011-12-07T04:41:19.153" Score="4" ViewCount="2735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a frame I'm interested in building up, but it doesn't include a fork.  So I've been looking for carbon 700cc forks... with disc tabs.  I've found a few, but ran into a new dilemma - curved vs straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frames I'm looking at are cyclocross/touring.  I wouldn't think 29ers are into rigid front ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any reason to choose one over the other - brake chatter, bump suppression?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastEditorUserId="2735" LastEditDate="2011-12-08T01:20:57.697" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T03:30:07.607" Title="Road Fork: Curved vs Straight?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7241" CreationDate="2011-12-07T06:14:47.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a carbon-fiber disc fork the difference is almost certainly purely aesthetic. Both curved and straight forks will be designed around equivalent rake values, so the direct handling and performance will be identical.  The only other difference between curved and straight blades - mostly discussed in terms of standard steel forks - is a minimal amount of shock absorption, and much of the distinction there will be excised by the additional reinforcement required to handle the stresses of a disc brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T06:14:47.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7266" CreationDate="2011-12-07T12:03:59.103" Score="3" ViewCount="1329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting weird noises coming from the bottom bracket (BB from now on), and I wanted to extract it to check if the problem is there or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletutor.com/cartridge-bottom-bracket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The guide video&lt;/a&gt; I used is no longer public (free) as when I saw it the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been successful extracting on another bike, but on this one, I have two issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the right side (drive side), made of metal, the extraction key&#xA;doesn't fit! the key seems to be about 2mm wider than the&#xA;circumference of the side, as seen on the picture below. I assume&#xA;something distorted this side, this bike fell once, but I doubt this&#xA;was damaged by that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The left side is made of plastic, and my hope was (because of the&#xA;issue on the right side), to unscrew this side first, but it is very&#xA;tight and I am fearful of it breaking if I apply more strength. By&#xA;the way, the key fits perfectly on this side.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this before on another BB and it came out just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A picture to illustrate this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyqHq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Bracket extraction problem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally the question(s):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a different technique to extract this BB?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there hope in salvaging this BB? it may not be the part making the noise.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any guess on why the right side is tighter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2011-12-07T19:13:05.810" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T19:34:17.420" Title="Bottom bracket square taper (cartridge) extraction, too tight in one side" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="347" CreationDate="2011-12-07T17:36:04.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One approach is to just accept that you won't be able to ride as fast as in still air and slow down a bit! Its certainly more enjoyable than battling hard against a head wind, especially if you aren't feeling so good and not in a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, as well as some other tips, are included in this article: &lt;a href=&quot;http://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/technique/six-ways-to-bear-a-headwind.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/technique/six-ways-to-bear-a-headwind.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1582" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T19:29:22.333" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T19:29:22.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-07T19:43:38.403" Score="0" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for a good fall/winter/spring coat. In my imagination it is: a hard raincoat type shell on the front of the jacket to block wind and fleece on the back to make it extremely breathable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking to use it in Ottawa, Ontario in temperatures between +5C to -10C (although that is flexible, I wouldn't mind having to layer or figure out something cooler for warmer weather).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus: It should also have some kind of reflective material.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this coat exist? Where can I find it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="634" LastEditDate="2011-12-08T01:20:16.277" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T07:54:18.153" Title="Looking for coat: shell front, fleece back" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;jacket&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-07T22:41:52.563" Score="9" ViewCount="25222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have mutant-wide feet and it's generally impossible to find comfortable shoes for any occasion. For the most part my only options in life are New Balance. I'm cycling a lot lately and would like to take advantage of cleats. So, does anybody actually manufacture 4E shoes? I'd rather not try stretching them out with mink oil/boiling water/wooden shoe stretchers and the pain from narrow shoes can be pretty excruciating. My google-fu is coming up with a few dozen forum discussions with no real solutions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3017" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-12-07T23:20:58.060" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T19:44:10.540" Title="Does anybody manufacture extra-wide (3E/4E or EEE/EEEE ) wide road or mountain biking shoes?" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7246" CreationDate="2011-12-07T23:06:01.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.d2shoe.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;D2 Shoes&lt;/a&gt; will make you a custom extra-wide shoe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good info on the D2 Shoes website. 41 sizes, 9 widths available. $975 price tag is tough, but looks like D2 Shoes will manufacture you an extra wide road or mountain shoe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The widest off the shelf bicycle shoe I could find is the Shimano SH-M087GE Mountain Bike Shoes. The GE version is a wide version of the regular SH-M087G.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2018-08-28T19:44:10.540" LastActivityDate="2018-08-28T19:44:10.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7246" CreationDate="2011-12-08T00:22:12.803" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sidi make a wide fitting version of their shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of Sidi's and they have been the best fitting, most comfortable shoes I've ever found. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sidiamerica.com/sidi/sidi_fit.html&quot;&gt;their website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mega sizes are cut with more material throughout, and a larger-volume heelcup. Mega sizes roughly correspond to a EE/EEE width on the Brannock sizing scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly still not wide enough for your needs but they're worth checking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T00:22:12.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7245" CreationDate="2011-12-08T01:11:34.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things like this are out there.  Look at the suppliers of mountaineering clothing as well as cycle manufacturers for innovative use of contrasting fabrics for ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an older model of this jacket:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/mens-wind-shield-pullover?p=24991-0-425&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/mens-wind-shield-pullover?p=24991-0-425&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It treats me pretty well--wind-proof front, but with fleecy breathable arms and back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that, in Canada, MEC carries Patagonia clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T01:11:34.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7246" CreationDate="2011-12-08T01:20:14.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once met a guy who had had his shattered foot &quot;reconstructed&quot; with screws, etc, and it was about half-again as wide as his other foot.  He was riding in custom-reconstructed cycling shoes.  He told me that the cobbler took two regular bike shoes, cut them apart, and sewed them back together as one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I recall (it's been maybe eight years), the shoes had cleats, probably SPDs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, I have no idea who did the work for him, but probably an outfit that does &quot;orthopedic&quot; shoes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T01:20:14.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7241" CreationDate="2011-12-08T03:30:07.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Curved vs. Straight&quot; is probably the least important factor in choosing a fork. There might be some subtle differences in how they flex or absorb vibrations, but those differences will be completely overshadowed by all the other engineering choices that went into making the fork. So no, there's no reason to even think about this, except as a matter of looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(By the way, you're wrong about 29ers. There's plenty of those with rigid forks. Maybe because all the 29er suspension forks are expensive as hell.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T03:30:07.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7245" CreationDate="2011-12-08T07:50:16.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rivendell&lt;/a&gt; sells the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/az4.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MUSA Windshield&lt;/a&gt;, which covers the front of your torso. This could be worn over a fleece base jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T07:50:16.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7245" CreationDate="2011-12-08T12:50:04.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I used to row I had the exact opposite top layer - a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rock-the-boat.co.uk/cat-2-subcat-5-product-12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sleeveless gilet&lt;/a&gt; with a fleece front and a shell back (highlighting where water typically splashed up at you). The gilet was long enough in the back to be able to be sat on while rocked over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the hunched nature of the riding position when battling into a headwind in the rain, I've often worn this as the top layer on those inclement days.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T12:50:04.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7255" CreationDate="2011-12-08T13:11:08.373" Score="4" ViewCount="6615" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several drive side spokes on a mountain bike rear were damaged the rear mech being pushed into the wheel by a rock, with one snapping completely. I've replaced the affected spokes and have managed to get the wheel (almost) perfectly true laterally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've noticed that the wheel is out of true radially -- i.e. it has high or low points of 2-3mm in a couple of places. I don't know if this was present before I replaced the spokes or not, but I'd like to improve this before putting the wheel back on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I need to tighten (or loosen) spokes equally on both sides at the high (or low) points to resolve this. But doing so seems to have little or no effect when making the kind of 1/4 or 1/2 turn adjustments I used to true the wheel laterally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I going about this in the wrong way? Or do I need to make much bigger changes to spoke tension to affect the radial profile of the rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1582" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T14:07:13.223" Title="Tips for radial wheel truing" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7254" CreationDate="2011-12-08T14:07:13.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's (a lot) harder to achieve in-out motion than side-to-side, and generally requires (much) more that 1/2 turn adjustments.  Plus you must usually loosen spokes on either side (2-4 spokes away) of a high spot, or tighten spoken on either side of a low spot.  For low spots sometimes you need to tighten ALL the spokes except those over the spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But at some point you need to either scrap the rim or employ a tool to bend the rim.  Bending out low spots can be effectively handled with a jury-rigged tool consisting of a couple of blocks of wood with holes drilled in them and a piece of &quot;all thread&quot; with a couple of nuts and washers.  (I've never dealt with high spots serious enough to require the opposite tool.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T14:07:13.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7262" CreationDate="2011-12-08T14:29:29.173" Score="3" ViewCount="2135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at buying a helmet meeting ASTM F 2040, CPSC and EN 1078 safty requirements.  Are these reasonable standards and will they protect my head in an axcident?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these standards recognised in Canada?  If I am involved in an accident and if I am wearing a helmet meeting these standards will I be found to be partially neglegent? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7257/feedback-on-bern-helmets-for-winter&quot;&gt;These are the helmets I am considering&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T18:18:36.557" Title="Helmet Safety Standards Canada" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;canada&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-08T14:33:07.063" Score="1" ViewCount="2466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about picking up a new helmet this afternoon.  My current helmet: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has had a few accidents &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Isn't very warm in the winter.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't have great clearance for ski goggles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about picking up a bern helmet I was toing to get either the: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/HelmetsAndCovers/Mens/PRD~5017-167/bern-brentwood-cycling-helmet-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bern Brentwood Cycling Helmet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/HelmetsAndCovers/Mens/PRD~5017-165/bern-watts-cycling-helmet-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bern Watts Cycling Helmet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both helmets are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;All Season&quot; which means they support putting warm weather inserts into the helmet and have a slot to put a ski goggle attachement on the back.  See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bernunlimited.com/Innovation/All+Season&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bernunlimited.com/Innovation/All+Season&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both helmets meet: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7256/helmet-safety-standards-canada&quot;&gt;ASTM F 2040, CPSC and EN 1078 safty requirements&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anyone have experience with these helmets?  How did you like it?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was it warm enough to wear in -10C weather?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other feedback welcome.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any preferences between them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Note the helmets linked do not include the winter insert.  I still need to figure out where I can get one of those.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T18:00:57.470" Title="Feedback on Bern Helmets for winter" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7245" CreationDate="2011-12-08T15:19:57.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Europe, it is sold by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decathlon.be/NL/zwarte-fleecejack-3-193531273/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Decathlon&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.btwin.com/blouson-3-polaire-noir-id_8181413.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;You can order it here&lt;/a&gt; (I don't know if they deliver in Canada).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T15:19:57.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7257" CreationDate="2011-12-08T15:24:45.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We purchased the Bern Brentwood for my son a few years ago, he loved it. There were no issues with fit or comfort. We did not use the winter inserts at all, if it was cold, he wore a beanie style hat underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He did use it on the slopes as well when snowboarding, wearing a beanie/stocking cap for ear coverage and warmth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coldest he wore it in was maybe in the upper 20's F, combined with the hat he never complained of being cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T15:24:45.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7256" CreationDate="2011-12-08T17:43:23.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ontario specifically mentions the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/faq/safety.shtml#BicycleHelmets4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;following standards&lt;/a&gt; on the MTO website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Canadian Standard Association: CAN/CSA D113.2-M89&#xA;Snell Memorial Foundation: Snell B90, Snell B90S, or Snell N94&#xA;American National Standard Institute: ANSI Z90.4-1984&#xA;American Society For Testing and Materials: ASTMF1447-94&#xA;British Standards Institute: BS6863:1989&#xA;Standards Association of Australia: AS2063.2-1990&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't appear as thou the standards you listed show up on that list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.astm.org/Standards/F2040.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ASTM F2040&lt;/a&gt; you listed is specifically for snow-sports, and would most likely not be &quot;legal&quot; for use as a bicycle helmet in many jurisdictions that require bicycle helmets.  Although, as I mentioned in my comments, many places don't require a helmet at all.  If you want to remain &quot;legal&quot; I would go for an approved bicycle helmet under the standard I listed (check your province's regulartions) and to with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/Accessories/PRD~5019-669/pearl-izumi-barrier-skull-cap-unisex.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;skull cap&lt;/a&gt; to keep your head warm. I've been using something similar for the last few years and they work great.  If there is no helmet requirement in you province, you can wear whatever you want on your head.  Those snow sport helmets would probably be pretty safe. Although some say that bike helmets are better designed to slide across pavement in the event of an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More Info&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EN_1078&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EN 1078&lt;/a&gt; standard is (according to wikipedia) identical to &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.bsigroup.com/en/ProductDetail/?pid=000000000030082421&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BS EN 1078:1997 standard&lt;/a&gt; which replaces &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.bsigroup.com/ProductDetail/?pid=000000000000208650&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;British Standards Institute: BS6863:1989&lt;/a&gt; which is the one listed on the MTO website.  So it appears that this helmet is rated for cycling.  However I'm guessing that the MTO website is out of date, since it references a standard which has been replaced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2011-12-08T18:08:06.447" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T18:08:06.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7207" CreationDate="2011-12-08T17:45:55.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought the question was, will a single-speed chain tensioner (the kind that allows you to get chain tension right on a single-speed bike with vertical dropouts) provide enough variability in chain length that I can shift a front derailleur. The answer is probably not. The chain will either be too loose in the lower gear or too tight in the higher gear. All you need to do is use a cheap rear derailleur as a chain tensioner. No shifter or cassette. This will provide enough slack to shift to the high gear, and take up that slack again when you shift to the low gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3023" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T17:45:55.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7256" CreationDate="2011-12-08T18:18:36.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are reasonable standards that will protect your head in an accident. Comparable to the Snell B-90 standards.  Snell B-95 standards is higher and would provide more protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ASTM F2040, for instance, is a &quot;snow sports&quot; helmet standard based on the same testing as the ASTM bicycle helmet standards with some additional cold-conditions tests added in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canada has its own bicycle helmet standard, &lt;code&gt;CAN-CSA-D113.2-M&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to pay to get a copy of the actual standard, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclesource.com/safety/helmets/helmet-standards-compared.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site has a nice comparison of helmet standards&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Canadian and ASTM standards use similar flat and round anvils but ASTM has a curb/kerb anvil that the Canadian standard doesn't have. (ASTM is better here)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Canadian standard has a more protective maximum acceleration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the Canadian tort law part of your question, I don't think we can really answer that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T18:18:36.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7228" CreationDate="2011-12-09T04:20:18.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a really good question, and one that I found myself asking only a few weeks ago. The aforementioned posts are great if you feel like restricting yourself to &quot;Goretex&quot; as the main construction fabric of the jacket you're looking for. &#xA;You can find a lot of technical information about Goretex online, but one of the most basic facts about the fabric is its 3,000mm rating. This means that, technically, the fabric isn't 100% waterproof, but is, rather, &quot;rain proof.&quot; As found here - &lt;a href=&quot;http://backcountrybeacon.com/2010/04/waterproof-ratings-demystified/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://backcountrybeacon.com/2010/04/waterproof-ratings-demystified/&lt;/a&gt; - you'll be able to see what I mean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're open to discovering new jackets and fabrics, I would suggest looking beyond conventional Goretex jackets and taking a look at several retailers that are currently constructing jackets using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.polartec.com/neoshell/technical-highlights.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Polartec's new NeoShell fabric&lt;/a&gt;. Marmot released their &lt;a href=&quot;http://marmot.com/products/zion_jacket_fall_2011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ZION jacket using NeoShell&lt;/a&gt;, which is rated at 10,000mm (100% waterproof by all industrial standards) and has received awards from Polartec for best use of their fabric. And so, after a heavy amount of research (really the only reason I know any of this), I decided to purchase one from a 3rd party retailer for quite a bit less than they are found on the site. Oh, another thing, NeoShell works as a passive membrane check this out - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goretex is an active permeable fabric, what this means is that you'll need to start sweating and building pressure within the jacket before you notice any dissipation of heat through the fabric, relieving you of excess heat (but at this point it's kind of too late). SUCKS!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NeoShell is a passive permeable fabric, what this means is that the second you start to build up heat pressure in the jacket it is basically forced out. Pretty cool huh? It gets better...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been itching to write this review somewhere and a friend of mine JUST referred this site as a great resource for biking gear. So I got the jacket last Sunday and have been riding, running, and pushing myself harder than I ever could with my old riding jackets (which were all pearlIzumi, etc). I've got a similar commute to handle every morning in 19F (-7C) degree weather and the first time I got out on Monday and started to feel the heat in my jacket, it was as if it was being sucked out, leaving me with an even warmth that was comfortable and inspired me to ride even harder. The jacket has a great articulated hood, loooooong sleeves with asymmetrical cuffs that cover the tops of your hands from the wind, draw cords on the waist, and pockets that double as vents. It has a fleece lining to wick moisture. And because the fabric is so breathable, I've never had to unzip to regulate heat. Literally... the best riding jacket that was never meant to be a riding jacket. 100% wind and waterproof. It's a little pricey, but for something that can do what all others cannot AND be used for running, skiing, hiking, and climbing... it really doesn't get much better. I have yet to brave snow, but I've never been this excited to conquer terrible weather in my life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a baselayer and something warm on those extra cold days. Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3026" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2011-12-09T16:21:36.270" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T16:21:36.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7265" CreationDate="2011-12-09T16:51:50.607" Score="24" ViewCount="164614" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's easy to calculate what capacity of a rear derailleur will be needed based on the size of the big and small chainring and the big and small cog. What about the converse question, how to calculate the capacity of a derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was comparing some short-cage rear derailleurs I have lying around, and I noticed that the cage length and pulley sizes varied enough that they probably had different capacities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related question: is there a fairly comprehensive place to look these up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T08:28:34.610" LastActivityDate="2019-05-05T19:46:29.747" Title="How to calculate the capacity of a rear derailleur" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;math&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7264" CreationDate="2011-12-09T17:15:43.177" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are asking how to calculate the maximum capacity of the chainrings and cogs, based on looking at the derailleur, then it's not going to be as easy as just looking at them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding a derailleur to fit your chainrings/cogs based on just the chainrings/cogs is going to be a lot easier than finding chainrings based on looking at your derailleur. HOWEVER, there are some standards for manufacturer, I have listed them below. I have also included the formula to find out your capacities, since I misread your question initially and decided to answer the part you weren't concerned with. I am not deleting it because, well, it took a while to type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to United Bicycle Institute:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Determine &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Chainring Difference&lt;/strong&gt; by subracting the number of teeth in the smallest chainring from the number of teeth in the largest chainring&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Determine &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog Difference&lt;/strong&gt; by subtracting the number of teeth on the smallest cassette cog from the number of teeth on the largest cassette cog&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Determine &lt;strong&gt;Total Drivetrain Capacity&lt;/strong&gt; by adding &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Chainring Difference&lt;/strong&gt; to the &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog Difference&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Record the &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog&lt;/strong&gt; (the number of teeth on the largest Cassette Cog)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For Shimano:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SS - Short Cage Road Double - &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog&lt;/strong&gt; is 27 and &lt;strong&gt;Total Capacity&lt;/strong&gt; is 29&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GS - Medium Cage MTB/Road Triple - &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog&lt;/strong&gt; is 34(MTB)/27(Road) and &lt;strong&gt;Total Capacity&lt;/strong&gt; is 33(MTB)/37(Road)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SGS - Long MTB - &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog&lt;/strong&gt; is 34 and &lt;strong&gt;Total Capacity&lt;/strong&gt; is 45&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For SRAM:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short - &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog&lt;/strong&gt; is 34(MTB)/28(Road) and &lt;strong&gt;Total Capacity&lt;/strong&gt; is 32(MTB)/31(Road)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Medium - &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog&lt;/strong&gt; is 34 and &lt;strong&gt;Total Capacity&lt;/strong&gt; is 37&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long - &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog&lt;/strong&gt; is 34 and &lt;strong&gt;Total Capacity&lt;/strong&gt; is 45&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For Campagnolo:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short - &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog&lt;/strong&gt; is 26 and &lt;strong&gt;Total Capacity&lt;/strong&gt; is 27&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Medium - &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog&lt;/strong&gt; is 29 and &lt;strong&gt;Total Capacity&lt;/strong&gt; is 36&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long - &lt;strong&gt;Maximum Cassette Cog&lt;/strong&gt; is 29 and &lt;strong&gt;Total Capacity&lt;/strong&gt; is 39&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE - THIS INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE BY MANUFACTURER&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a great source for all of this is Sutherland's 7th edition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sutherlandsbicycle.com/7th_Edition.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sutherlandsbicycle.com/7th_Edition.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2946" LastEditorUserId="2946" LastEditDate="2011-12-09T18:37:06.350" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T18:37:06.350" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7243" CreationDate="2011-12-09T19:34:17.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll find that they are actually a different size.  I'm struggling to find any information about it online but I can show you a picture of a tool that should deal with it.  It's hard to say what the difference in size is but there is an obvious difference in thickness of the ends.  You probably just need to find the other size tool and take out the metal end first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/muO07.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two sided bottom bracket tool&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BwK2V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One end of the tool&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/phaIq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The other end of the tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T19:34:17.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-09T22:57:00.567" Score="4" ViewCount="5020" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a LED front light for Brompton (S Type) that can remain attached when the bike is folded and works well for commuting in town?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://brompton.com/pages/9035&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;folding&lt;/a&gt; causes problems in that anything protruding more than a couple of centimeters forwards of the stem and bars hits the spokes of the front wheel when the handlebars are folded down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bromptonjunction.com/battery-led-light-set/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official Brompton light&lt;/a&gt; set, but I wondering about other options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3028" LastEditorUserId="8643" LastEditDate="2013-12-01T15:34:53.210" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T15:12:04.097" Title="Brompton front light recommendations?" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;brompton&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2011-12-09T23:29:22.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Brompton-listed set use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&amp;amp;m-hl.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Busch &amp;amp; Muller&lt;/a&gt; lights - the IQ Cyo with the SON and one of the halogen lights with the Shimano.  All of the B&amp;amp;M lights use the same front mounting bracket to the top of the fork crown, so it looks like any of them would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those brackets are also fairly easy to come by, and you could pretty easily modify any handlebar light to mount there as well - a piece of tubing and a bolt would be all it takes.  Or you can buy the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/b-and-m-light-bracket-fork-crown-493-ghpb-254-mm-mount-prod22455/?src=froogleus&amp;amp;currency=usd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official B&amp;amp;M one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as recommendations, it really depends on your price sensitivity and how much lighting you need.  I really like the IQ Cyo, but at over $100USD it's pricy. Of course, compared to the $200 EDelux, that's a bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T23:29:22.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7264" CreationDate="2011-12-10T00:40:11.943" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to estimate the tooth capacity of a rear derailer by installing it on a bike, threading a chain through (and over a cluster), anchoring one end of the chain so it can't move, and pulling on the other end.  You'd first pull just enough to achieve &quot;minimum&quot; tension, then pull until the derailer was stretched close to tight.  Count the chain links that are pulled past a fixed spot (ie, don't just count how many links roll off the jockey wheel) as you pull between these two positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd probably want to try this 2-3 times on different cogs of the cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely takes a bit of judgment, but should come within 1-2 teeth of the &quot;right&quot; answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T00:40:11.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2011-12-10T00:49:19.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the pictures, it appears that just about any brake bolt mounted light should be adaptable, though you might have to craft your own bracket.  But note that even the illustrated lights look like they'd interfere with mounting a front bag on that bracket above the lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the main conflict you run into with lights -- they interfere with mounting handlebar bags and the like, and even if there's no mechanical interference a bag is apt to block the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T00:49:19.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7282" CreationDate="2011-12-10T01:53:09.357" Score="5" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a good training video on intermediate mountain biking skills.&#xA;(I've been mt biking for about 12 years and I'd like to improve my skills.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a video that really breaks the skills down and maybe provides suggestions of drills to practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for DVDs or online videos (YouTube, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skills I'm looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting over 5&quot; to 12&quot; tall obstacles (rocks, fallen trees).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manual Wheel lift (which would probably help with the above).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jumping /Descending down something really steep (2' drop off, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastEditorUserId="1502" LastEditDate="2011-12-11T14:56:42.500" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:46:10.857" Title="Suggestions of a good video on intermediate Mountain Biking skills: getting up (and down)  1' obstacles " Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7274" CreationDate="2011-12-10T02:09:36.723" Score="9" ViewCount="10360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some road tires that were made for flat resistance, but within two months, the sidewalls on both got damaged to the point where I was getting repeated blowouts. I wrote to the manufacturer, and they were kind enough to send me a replacement pair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, I bought some new flat resistant tires to replace the busted ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have two new pairs of flat resistant tires, but I only have a use for one at a time. How long can I store a new pair before I have to worry about the material degrading, dry rot, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(not mentioning the brands here because I don't want to bash the manufacturer that sent me the replacement.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2885" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T21:46:42.197" Title="How long is it safe to store new tires before they degrade in quality?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2011-12-10T05:03:43.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Light &amp;amp; Motion makes a headlight, side markers and tail light that straps to your helmet called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelights.com/vis360.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vis 360&lt;/a&gt;. That might be a better option so you don't have to worry about the lights getting into the way of the folding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2817" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T05:03:43.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7272" CreationDate="2011-12-10T07:24:50.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the storage conditions. If kept at room temperature, not excessively humid or dry, and kept in the dark, they can be stored for a long time. Oftentimes for years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best storage bet is to wrap them in plastic and stash them in the back of a closet. I've kept high-end tubulars for two years that way and that rubber is much more sensitive to storage/dry rot compared to puncture-resistant tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3030" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-12-11T03:27:34.517" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T03:27:34.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7272" CreationDate="2011-12-10T13:12:03.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that if they're stored in a cool dark place, and, preferably, kept wrapped somehow, they should be good for ten years or so (though possibly less for gumwalls).  You need to keep them away from UV light, ozone, and stuff like fumes from a poorly vented heater.  (Also, any sort of petroleum fumes would be bad, so a garage is not ideal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try to store them in such a way that they won't be distorted too badly (though perfectly flat is not necessary).  Wrapping (spiral plastic wrap, eg) helps keep the nasty stuff away, and helps keep them from getting distorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-12-10T19:12:53.403" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T19:12:53.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7228" CreationDate="2011-12-10T23:53:33.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best jacket that I've found for cold or cold and wet weather cycling is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buffalosystems.co.uk/DP_Cycle_Shirt.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cycle Shirt&lt;/a&gt; by Buffalo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pertex shell it isn't waterproof at all, but your body heat evaporates all but heavy rain. Contrast this with Goretex, which when soaked on the outside cannot pass water vapour, and so ends up condensated on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T23:53:33.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-11T08:25:01.857" Score="2" ViewCount="2484" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every day I commute on my cannonade caad9 and carry a crumpler bag with my 15&quot; MacBook pro, some work documents and often a change of clothes if it's a hot or rainy day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After years of doing this I'm thinking it's time I started thinking about my back and am considering panniers for the commute. Yes a caad9 is a road bike and not so much a commuter, I also do road riding and prefer using the 1 bike for everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally it would be a pannier that could be very easily removed and be able to sustain the weight and clearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have suggestions on good kit to get for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3032" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T00:00:09.977" Title="Pannier for cannondale caad9?" Tags="&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7278" CreationDate="2011-12-11T13:26:51.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, first you'd have to install (relatively permanently (*)) some sort of rack, and that bike doesn't have any fender or rack eyelets.  So you need either a clamp-on rack or one of the mini-racks that attach to the seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a decent quality clamp-on rack and get it securely mounted then you should be able to use any standard (three-point mount) pannier.  With the mini-racks you're a bit limited in terms of weight and size (and disadvantaged in terms of stability), but they still take standard panniers, to my knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(But keep in mind that a few panniers have a proprietary mounting system and will work only with their brand of rack.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) &quot;Relatively permanently&quot; means that the rack could be removed in 10-15 minutes if you wanted to use the bike in a road race or some such, but it's not something you'd want to do regularly.  Though the mini-racks that clamp to the seatpost go on/off much more rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T13:26:51.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="990" CreationDate="2011-12-11T15:00:09.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this from:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbtechniques.co.uk/TrialsTrackstand.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mtbtechniques.co.uk/TrialsTrackstand.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Which looks to be a great website on Mt. Biking skills)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Trackstand is basically a method of remaining stationary on the&#xA;  bike without having to put a foot down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Learning how to trackstand will improve your balance no end allowing&#xA;  more control of the bike when riding slowly (for example when riding&#xA;  along a thin section of north shore).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;mtb skills trackstand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is also an essential technique that allows you extra time to&#xA;  compose yourself and work out your line through technical sections&#xA;  without putting your feet down.  It is essential when riding highly&#xA;  technical slow speed ‘trials’ type trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To practice a trackstand it may help to be facing up a slight hill.&#xA;  Selecting the middle chainring on the front and around a 20t sprocket&#xA;  or middle gear on the rear will give a nice responsive feel to your&#xA;  pedals without them being to hard to push.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Roll along at a slow pace with your pedals roughly horizontal one foot&#xA;  should naturally become your front or chocolate foot. Apply the front&#xA;  brake and allow the bike to come to a stop. As you stop turn the&#xA;  handlebars so that your front wheel is at about a 45 degree angle&#xA;  facing into the hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you start to fall uphill, then apply pressure on your forward foot&#xA;  to move the bike forward, because the front wheel is pointing uphill&#xA;  this will bring the bike back under you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you start to fall downhill take your weight off the front pedal and&#xA;  allow the bike to roll back (this is why it is easier on a slope)&#xA;  under you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Try not to move too far forward or backwards whilst staying balanced.&#xA;  The aim is to stay in the same place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It’s just a matter of allowing the bike to move under you so as to&#xA;  correct your balance. When you start you will need to move the bike&#xA;  and your body quite a bit to stay in control. As you progress the&#xA;  movements will become much smaller until they are almost invisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once comfortable turning the front wheel in this natural direction,&#xA;  approach the hill from the other side so that you still face uphill&#xA;  but with the front wheel turned the other way. Also practice in both&#xA;  directions with your natural foot to the rear using your opposite foot&#xA;  to apply pressure to the pedals. This will give you many more options&#xA;  on the trails and will also help you swap pedals over when turning&#xA;  corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With practise, the trackstand in will become second nature and become&#xA;  a key technique in your skill arsenal giving you far more options on&#xA;  severe trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T15:00:09.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7278" CreationDate="2011-12-11T19:06:32.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heelstrike, which Neil Fein mentioned in a comment, would be my chief concern. You'd need a rack that moves the panniers aft. Axiom makes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axiomgear.com/products/gear/racks/streamliner-series/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;just such a rack&lt;/a&gt; that is designed for bikes without rack-mounting eyelets—instead it mounts to your quick-release skewer (which could make changing flats a PITA). I have seen people touring on road bikes with these, so it can be done. It would also be possible with some racks to mount the rack to P-clamps at the bottom. They also make this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axiomgear.com/products/gear/racks/flipflop-series/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;clamp-on seatpost rack&lt;/a&gt; that supposedly has a 15-kg capacity. Should be more than enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also consider a large seatbag. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/searchresults.asp?Search=basss&amp;amp;Submit=Submit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt; might be too small and is spendy, but it seems like it's in the right direction (and if you haven't explored Rivendell's website, do so—neat stuff).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T00:00:09.977" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T00:00:09.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7271" CreationDate="2011-12-11T20:02:54.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't included on your list, but the motion used for bunny hopping applies. I watched the following a while ago and thought it was informative:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/G3DdkcX5o9w?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 'getting up', you can combine a manual and bunny hop. What I normally do when approaching an obstacle that I want to hop over, is shift my weight back, then pull up on my wheel (just before reaching the obstacle). Getting your front wheel up is accomplished by pulling back evenly with both arms while making a hard pedal-stroke (you'll need to be in a small enough gear). Right before your wheel(s) come in contact with the obstacle, 'un-weight' your rear wheel and gently push your bars forward. Even if your wheels don't leave the ground, once you learn to un-weight your rear wheel, you'll naturally ramp off the obstacle, even if it's square like a curb. With practice you'll eventually start hopping before you contact the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have trouble putting it all together, try not to get frustrated. It can take a while to develop the co-ordination and strength required to complete each motion. I find that one of the best ways to ease your learning experience is to ride your local trails with riders that are a bit better than you. Watch what they do and try to follow their lines when you're comfortable. Pay particular attention to 'how' they ride certain obstacles/corners/descents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T20:46:10.857" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:46:10.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7287" CreationDate="2011-12-12T05:26:19.320" Score="49" ViewCount="26876" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may sound like a crazy question, however today in the wet my rear brakes decided to stop working effectively. It has been pouring rain here which makes the problem more apparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to get to work unscathed, but was wondering what is the best technique if I were to get in a situation where I had no brakes (front or back) and was heading downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try and zig-zag; throw the bike and just take the worst of it early on; immediately turn sideways in one direction or roll into the gutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the most effective, least damaging and most safe effective way of doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2460" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-12-12T07:02:48.977" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T17:32:27.120" Title="Safest way to slow down a bike quickly if both sets of brakes fail" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-12T08:40:50.137" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well first I recommend getting a pair of better brakes, the rain really shouldn't affect them much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been in the situation before when both brakes failed (it was a terrible Raleigh bike, and somehow during a ride both the cable end hoppeds out of the cantilevers), and I did what all kids do instinctively - put both feet flat on the road and put as much weight on them as possible.  It wrecks your shoes, but it saves your face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T08:40:50.137" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7271" CreationDate="2011-12-12T08:46:59.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to Dana's answer: If you don't know anyone who can show you the moves (always the best way to learn), then get onto Youtube and search for &quot;MTB bunny hop training&quot; and &quot;MTB drop off training&quot;.  You should find thousands of videos of people showing you what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T08:46:59.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-12T12:30:54.370" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally, search for a possible uphill turn you can make.  Otherwise, drag your feet.  If you're going fast, sit as far upright as possible to increase wind resistance.  Getting off the pavement into grass (or firm sand) will generally slow you, but of course if you're going too fast it can throw you.  You can also run through puddles, if you see any -- a lot of energy is dissipated that way.  If you're inevitably going to hit something, try to pick the softest something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's never been my impression that zig-zagging slows you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is due to wetness, simply staying on the brakes will generally squeegee off the water, and eventually enough heat will develop to produce more friction.  In rain it's always best to anticipate braking needs and begin early, to dry the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T12:30:54.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-12T13:30:49.550" Score="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMXers in some places put the shoe between rear tire and frame, just where the rear brake normally is attached to the bike. I've never done that, because I used to run knobby tires (ouch!), and nowadays I care a lot about brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really should avoid this situation, because many times there would not be much to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess, a good alternative would be to turn sharply while leaning the bike, and then skidding the rear tire sideways. That is already difficult to do in a planned way, what to say when you are frightened...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good thing to do is follow the advice &quot;brake early, brake often&quot;, so you don't have to find out your brakes are not working only when is already too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T13:30:49.550" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7228" CreationDate="2011-12-12T13:31:47.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was out mountain biking yesterday in heavy rain. My eVent jacket (made by Rab) kept me dry. I believe eVent is supposed to be a bit more breathable than gore-tex, so if you are working hard and getting warm, some of your sweat will pass out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you don't try to get one waterproof and warm coat. You're much better off getting a waterproof coat that you can wear over a warm coat/top if it's really cold. Then you've got far more options and can get the best set up to match the weather and type of cycling you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T13:31:47.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-12T13:46:46.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never been in this situation myself, but here's a possible solution, though I've never tested it.  I have clipless pedals (SPD), and I've noticed that if I turn my heel inward, the back of my shoe drags on my reartire. I think that in an emergency, I could use this method to slow down, without putting my foot in too much danger, as it is still kind of clipped into the pedal.  Using your feet on the tires is probably a good way to get yourself hurt, but I've seen quite a few people on department store bikes use their feet in much more dangerous ways.  I may try this out at low speed to see how well it works, just so I know in case I'm ever in this situation.  Although I'm with everyone else on this one,  Keep your bike in good shape, and check your brakes every so often so you don't end up in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T13:46:46.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-12T15:30:40.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be aware of your equipment and the conditions and predict things going wrong - the state of your brake blocks and rims should be on your weekly checklist (tyres -  pressure and general condition, brakes - cable tension and block wear, chain - free of major dirt and reasonably lubricated). Especially in the autumn and winter, you need to have confidence in your equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the best solution is to not get into that problem area to begin with. But once you're there:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your feet - either on the road or directly on the tyre. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand up and be big, especially if you've a coat on, make like a sail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn into a quieter road/path and aim for something soft ... &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you're skiing instructors will tell you to continue the turn and point uphill, that will take the sting out of your speed. Something similar would be almost the last resort. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm a fixie rider, so my last piece of advice is join me in braking with my legs, just slow the pedals with your feet and save rubber all year round!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T15:30:40.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7294" CreationDate="2011-12-12T17:41:12.210" Score="11" ViewCount="62390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of acquiring a bike trainer (likely &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BT7HWY&quot;&gt;CycleOps Fluid 2&lt;/a&gt;) for winter conditioning.  Most of the reviews and other information I have read suggestion that a regular road tire will be damaged or quickly worn out on a trainer.  What type of tires or specific models/brands should I look for use on a trainer?  Should I get a different rear wheel/tire that I change out during the winter conditioning season?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2110" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T21:16:56.783" Title="What kind of tire should I purchase for use on a bike trainer?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7291" CreationDate="2011-12-12T17:50:52.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A regular road tire will work fine, but you should keep it inflated and not press the roller bar up against it overly hard. But there is no disadvantage to getting a really cheap tire and using it on the trainer -- it will work just as good as an expensive racing tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T17:50:52.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-12T17:53:51.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;(a) Drag your feet.&#xA;Dragging your feet works nicely in snow, when your brakes are frozen up and stop working. However, you have to dig in really hard to get much friction. On dry pavement, this is not so good because you feet get thrown back. On gravel and dirt roads it works well, but is a little hard on shoes.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dSJHQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(b) Turn into grass, ditch, etc.&#xA;When you're bicycling along out of control, with no or insufficient brakes, it's usually easy to pull off into the ditch (unless you're in the city), and the grass will slow you down. As you are coasting along in a ditch, you might be lucky enough to encounter a driveway which will slow you down &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; fast, although possibly not as fast as it slows down the bicycle. It's not too bad to bump into a chain link or privacy fence, but barbed wire should be avoided. You can also turn uphill sometimes, if there is room, and trade speed for elevation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(c) Jump off (if necessary).&#xA;I have actually only jumped off in out-of-control situations rather than brake failures, but it does a nice job of stopping the bicycle driver if not the bike itself. This is difficult to do if you have your feet clipped into the pedals, and is not recommended at high speeds unless it seems really, really necessary, as in the case of a rapidly approaching cactus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried all of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastEditorUserId="2102" LastEditDate="2011-12-13T03:50:22.933" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T03:50:22.933" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7291" CreationDate="2011-12-12T17:59:11.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make it easier on myself I purchased a cheap wheel on eBay and added a trainer specific tire such as the Continental Ultra Sport Hometrainer Tire. When I used regular road tires, the rubber wore out quickly. The trainer specific tire lasts much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not want to run the trainer specific tire on the roads. So having a spare wheel with cassette makes it easier to put on your normal wheel for those nice winter days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T17:59:11.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7296" CreationDate="2011-12-12T21:26:54.753" Score="11" ViewCount="8768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've erroneously bought a rim (hoping my technical English is right: the part of the wheel between the spokes and the tire). While I have no immediate use for it, shipping it back to the seller for refund would be a waste of shipping costs if I would need a new rim in the foreseeable future. I have been riding a Gazelle street bike for ~10 years now, and it is showing signs of wear along the periphery. In particular, I've recently discovered I've been negligient with checking the spokes of my rear wheel, which has been running some time with broken spokes. For the second time now in these 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long can I reasonably expect rims to last on a street bike? Will I be facing replacements sometime soon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2353" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T21:27:46.010" Title="Life expectancy of a rim?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7295" CreationDate="2011-12-12T21:39:26.540" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rims can last a very very long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The failure mode (other than from accidents) is simply the wearing-down of the brake surfaces over time (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4039/can-your-rims-wear-down-from-too-much-braking&quot;&gt;see this question&lt;/a&gt;). You can literally wear-away the rim surface with your brakes until the rim is too weak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some rims designed for commuters have a groove in them that is designed to indicate wear. When you can no longer see the groove, you know its time to replace the rim (might as well replace the wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-026/000.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;excellent description&lt;/a&gt; of rim wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T21:27:46.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7295" CreationDate="2011-12-12T22:26:04.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to brake wear there is the &quot;slings and arrows of outrageous fortune&quot; -- rocks, curbs, manhole covers, etc.  Generally hitting an obstacle head-on doesn't damage the rim (much) but, eg, just catching the edge of a raised manhole cover can ding the rim edge pretty well.  Plus, over time rough use can cause the spoke nipples to pull through the rim, and riding with broken spokes can distort the rim to where it becomes hard to true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're not rough on the rim and keep it properly trued it can last a long time.  I've generally gotten maybe 15,000 miles out of rims, and if they were replaced it was because I was relacing the wheels anyway and figured new rims wouldn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T22:26:04.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-12T22:34:43.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are ways to deal with this situation - none of them are very good. Which means that the best thing to do is to make sure you don't go there in the first place. If you maintain your brakes, and don't ride some horrible P.O.S. Walmart bike, then the chances of losing both brakes &lt;em&gt;at the same time&lt;/em&gt; are very slim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T22:34:43.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-12T23:24:47.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer may sound crazy to any real cyclist, which I am not, nevertheless I speak from experience here – on my way to school there was a not-unsteep-ish hill I had to go down every morning, and having been &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; careless about my bike I had to improvise the braking rather often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, the &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; thing you might want to do is to jump off – while you're slow enough, so that you can safely stop by running out, ideally not letting go of your bike but slowing it down with you. That's the perfect solution when it works, which it can at surprisingly high speeds – at least as fast as you can run, if you have a little practise in this jumping-off-while-driving. But obviously, it's rather dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only if you're already too fast for this I'd recommend to slam both of your feet to the ground. You can exert quite a lot of pressure, I'm not sure about the technique I used to have but remember it occasionally completely lifted the front wheel from the ground. (You can to some degree still steer, surprisingly, by tilting the bike sidewards.) That gives at least as strong a braking force as blocking your rear wheel, the only problem is the wear on your shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3039" LastEditorUserId="3039" LastEditDate="2011-12-13T11:43:16.160" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T11:43:16.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7257" CreationDate="2011-12-13T00:32:55.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride Colorado winters, and use a &lt;strong&gt;Bern Brentwood with the winter insert.&lt;/strong&gt; In order to feel warm above the neck, I recommend the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go with the Brentwood and avoid the Watts. The brim on the Watts can interfere with your goggles. I tried goggles with the summer visor on the Brentwood and they never felt good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The winter insert is a must.&lt;/strong&gt; It keeps your ears warm, as well as the back of your neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get some ski goggles.&lt;/strong&gt; I carry clear OTG (over the glasses) Smiths, but I find that any sunglasses I wear underneath fog up, even if they goggles don't. I mostly need the goggles in the day when it's snowing, in which case it's not very bright out. At night they add extra warmth. Keep the goggles clipped on your helmet so they're around whenever you get caught in bad weather or extra cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bundle up your neck with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/738922/smartwool-neck-gaiter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SmartWool neck gaiter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; I cover my nose, cheeks, and chin with the gaiter and strap it down with the helmet. With sunglasses your breath will shoot right up and fog them, but with ski goggles it will seal off your exhalations and stay nice and clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while I'm on the subject, I recommend a couple other things for winter riding. I love my &lt;a href=&quot;http://swrve.myshopify.com/products/milwaukee-jacket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swrve Milwaukee ES hoodie&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. I have an older model; it's only improved since then. I've worn this down to 5º F with only a t-shirt underneath and been comfortable (a very dry 5º). If it gets colder than that, just add a layer or two. The pit zips let you wear this in less freezing temps, but it gets to be too hot above 40º. You won't think it's enough, but on the bike, it's plenty. Rain, sleet, snow, it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Waterproof dress shoes are handy.&lt;/strong&gt; I wear &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zappos.com/viewProduct.do?productId=7335554&amp;amp;colorId=72&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ecco Berlin with Gore-Tex&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love having &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/801460/mountain-hardwear-pinnacle-stretch-xt-gaiters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ice-climbing gaiters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for the wet and snowy days. They keep your pants clean, out of your chain, and give a little extra warmth on the shins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hands, I hate lobsters because I can't work the brakes, so I go for the warmest ski gloves I can find. I like these because they let me use touch screens: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/819093/outdoor-research-ambit-gloves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Outdoor Research Ambit Gloves&lt;/a&gt;. You will want to use a glove liner on the really cold days, but they're too warm for anything above freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3041" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T00:32:55.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-13T01:03:54.867" Score="7" ViewCount="3299" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the most effective 'no equipment' (bodyweight only) or 'equipment minimal' strength exercises for cyclists? There's a lot of info out there about core strength, so I'm working on that. However, I'm thinking now specifically about leg strength right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've 'plateaued' in recent years despite lots of quality miles and time on the bike. I think it's time to seriously look at increasing strength to step it up a notch. However, I hate gyms and the associated costs, egos, etc. so I'm looking for exercises I can do at home with no/little equipment. I have a 65cm Swiss Ball, some 15lb dumbbells, but that's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="832" LastEditDate="2011-12-13T01:10:06.410" LastActivityDate="2012-10-07T07:31:23.093" Title="Effective 'equipment minimal' leg strength training for cycling?'" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;cross-training&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-13T01:44:47.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem where my front brake lever was broken, but I could still brake by pulling on the cable manually (with my hand). It's easy to over-break though, so be careful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when I was young, I had a single-speed, no brakes tricycle and I let my feet off the pedals going down a steep hill. I could have used some of the advice here, but rather I just kept on going straight and looked back at my father the pleading eyes. So he (heroically) came to my rescue by putting a hand on my handlebars and using his own brakes to slow us both down. So if the context allows it, asking for someone else's help (another cyclist, an automobile, etc) does work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2360" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T01:44:47.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7301" CreationDate="2011-12-13T02:44:58.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend training with power and working with a coach. It will be faster and more efficient than trying to figure out how to get stronger on the bike than from a forum like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps. I currently train with power and have worked with coaches in the past. The structured workouts have definitely helped me get stronger on the bike and able to race on the road and cyclocross. I don't do anything in the gym and I have a few core exercises I keep up with but that is all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2817" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T02:44:58.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7301" CreationDate="2011-12-13T03:35:01.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Squat is very good for leg strength. You can do it at home with weights, like your dumbbells, though 15lb is pretty light. You might want to procure a barbell to progress the weight resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's a good idea to check with a trainer in a gym to learn how to do it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bike exercises are probably better if you ride less than 14 hrs/week, things like sprinting, stomping and climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T03:35:01.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7301" CreationDate="2011-12-13T05:30:57.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/463/1588&quot;&gt;been&lt;/a&gt; a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/6157/1588&quot;&gt;number&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/3374/1588&quot;&gt;questions&lt;/a&gt; about how to improve once you've plateaued with your current training regime. None of them specifically deal with weight training but they are all about improving strength and endurance on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/794/1588&quot;&gt;commonly&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/6160/1588&quot;&gt;accepted&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/3376/1588&quot;&gt;answers&lt;/a&gt; (and usually championed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/313/wdypdx22&quot;&gt;wdypdx22&lt;/a&gt;) is Interval Training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interval_training&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Interval Training&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's a type of workout where you alternate bursts of energy with&#xA;  periods of recovery. There are many variations of interval training.&#xA;  If you want cycling specific intervals, you could try &quot;The Time&#xA;  Crunched Cyclist&quot; by Chris Charmichael. The book is primarily about&#xA;  training for Centuries or racing, but if you follow the methods,&#xA;  you'll get into great condition. Interval training is an excellent&#xA;  cardo workout and a great alternative to jogging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One popular method of interval training is the &quot;Tabata&quot; method. This&#xA;  uses 20 seconds of ultra-intense exercise (at an intensity of about&#xA;  170% of VO2max or 90 - 95% of your max heart rate) followed by 10&#xA;  seconds of rest, repeated continuously for 4 minutes (8 cycles).&#xA;  Typically, this is done 3 or 4 days a week and not on consecutive&#xA;  days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T05:30:57.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-13T09:31:45.157" Score="8" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Sunday I wanted to use my free day and I planned to do a half-day ride with my mountain bike. The weather wasn't really good, but at least it wasn't raining as the days before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rode up a mountain for approximately 2 hours and then after a short break I wanted to ride down the other side of this mountain. I'd chosen a small path that was very muddy. Actually, it was so muddy, that my front wheel got stuck into the mud and I flew over my bike. Fortunately it wasn't too steep there and I hadn't been riding too fast (~30 km/h) so that I didn't hurt myself expect for some minor scratches on my arms and a not so deep cut in my forehead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finished the rest of my ride very carefully, but while I was riding, I was thinking a lot about how I could have avoided that accident. Obviously it would have been a good idea to avoid the situation in the first place, but once when you're on such a path what is a good tactic? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I ride as fast as possible so that my wheels can't get stuck? Or should I ride slowly? Which brakes should I use to brake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1316" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-12-13T12:59:56.303" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T16:40:32.967" Title="How could I have avoided this accident?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7306" CreationDate="2011-12-13T09:55:04.400" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tactic would be slower not faster and basically minimise the weight over the front wheel as much as possible by moving my backside as far back as possible. With higher speed and weight at the front I'd say you're more likely to dig the front wheel in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again I'd use the back brake, you need the front for steering as much as possible and you may loose that with braking on the front, also with the weight at the back the rear will be better for braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forgot to add,  try braking as much as possible before the muddy bit, and as little as possible whilst going through the mud. Braking will load up the front wheel and hence more likely to dig in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2707" LastEditorUserId="2707" LastEditDate="2011-12-13T11:11:40.450" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T11:11:40.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-13T12:45:08.940" Score="7" ViewCount="3863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just finished my first fixed gear based on an old Raleigh Rapide frame. But the chain line is off and I hear a crackling/ticking noise when I pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels are replace with a gipiemme wheelset and I kept the old bottom bracket and crank/chainring combo. The chainline is off by a few milimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have created an image that shows the issue: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dd7Qr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chainline&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first guess is to replace the spindle/axle. Are they sold seperatly from the cups? The current spindle is asymetric (longer on the driver side), but for a single speed bicycle I could probably buy a symetrical one right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I find out which spindle I should get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other options do I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2884" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T01:21:15.017" Title="Single speed chainline" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7295" CreationDate="2011-12-13T14:08:07.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mistreat a rim, you can destroy it pretty quickly.  For winter riding in Toronto, I used to just accept I was going to destroy a mountain bike every 2-3 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One horrible MTB end of life event was climbing a hill in the snow and the steer tube just twisted into a figure 8 and I went over the bars.  (Oddly enough my coworkers were driving by and dragged me into the office).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the worst was a rim failure in traffic.  My brake pads, with all the winter grit accumulated had worn through the sides of the rim, and one last brake attempt and the pad locked into the rim, tearing off a strip of metal, and sending me over the handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had enough sense as soon as I hit the ground to roll into the snow bank to avoid the cars.  Also, I was close enough to the office to carry the bike back, get some work dry clothes on and take a bus home.   But a rim can fail badly, if you treat it poorly.  It was entirely my own fault.  But winter riding can be hard on a bike, and hard to do proper maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T14:08:07.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7306" CreationDate="2011-12-13T16:40:32.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Treating the mud pit like a drop could be helpful. Obviously if you can bunny hop most or all of it, it's a non issue. If you drop in a slight wheelie or with both wheels simultaneously than both wheels will be acted on by the mud. Which means both wheels will have a better chance of stopping you and sinking rather than just the front. I would personally recommend against slow speeds and de-weighting the front wheel as this will almost definitely result in a front wheel skid and a fall in anything sloppy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T16:40:32.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7308" CreationDate="2011-12-13T19:19:38.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would surely go by changing the bottom-bracket for a longer one (be it changing the spindle as you said, or installing a sealed Shimano-type one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want too much to keep your current bottom bracket with separate spindle and cups, the sealed one is much more reliable, long-lasting, play-free and water-resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out the correct size is not a trivial task, I think you should go talk to some friendly and experient bike mechanic, since there are some subtle factors involved in bottom-bracket crankset interaction, that determine the final position of the chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your spindle looks long, get a shorter one and move the ring to the outer side of crank spider. If your crank is already very close to the frame, find a longer bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could play with the wheel/cog position,sometimes there are washers and nuts around the bearings that can be moved, swapped, changed for thinner/thicker ones, etc.&#xA;I have a fixie with a very cheap rear hub, and there is a lot of dishing, but I don't care, I've ridden dished wheels my whole life and they worked. It is not prettiest, but it is a minimal problem compared to twisted chainline on fixies/singles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T19:19:38.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7308" CreationDate="2011-12-13T19:40:30.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your other option is to move the chainring. I don't know what your cranks look like, so it may not be practical, but maybe you can add some spacers underneath the chainring mounting bolts. This may also require longer bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T19:40:30.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7308" CreationDate="2011-12-14T01:21:15.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you have a double chainring crankset, and are just running one ring, on the inside of the crank, you could try moving the chainring to the outside of the crank (where the big chainring would have been). Also - what is your chain tension like? The noises could also be attributed to a very tight, very cheap KMC chain. you should have about 1/4&quot; &quot;sag&quot; or &quot;vertical play&quot; in your chain at the tightest point. It also helps to have a single speed chainring, as it is made to fit with a single speed chain (which is wider than a 6,7,8 spd or 5 speed chain). That might resolve the misaligned chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2946" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T01:21:15.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6604" CreationDate="2011-12-14T06:07:07.283" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I follow behind, but some topics need to be reviewed before and during the rides. And also, for all our best intentions, the group gets split, or you coast ahead or they drift behind. I tend to review these points with my family or picnic group:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The intended route, and I try and ask the kids if they know what and where I'm talking about. It is important to get the kids thinking about their local geography and not mindlessly following mom and dad. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Marching order: if I'm solo with kids, I'm usually following. If I'm with my wife or another parent, often we have a parent leading, or in second place, and a parent as caboose. Kids that drift left into the lane sometimes need to be placed immediately behind the lead parent to give them a more distinct target to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Verbally agree, assign or describe the next stop. This not only allows the kids to participate in the navigation, gives them some measured independence towards leading the way, but also is good practice for parents to think ahead about what the next intersection is, and if the kids should lead thru it. Not agreeing on a stopping point leads to kids wandering far ahead parents changing course pursuing kids buddies that just &quot;wanted to check that thing out.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leading when you cannot describe the route clearly. Often this is leading slowly, so that the slow pedalers are not left behind.  Sometimes traffic is loud, and shouting from behind doesn't work well, so them seeing you lead off can be effective as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you do lead, lead ahead no more than a block/signal. Sometimes, especially if you are coasting downhill, or your group is split by a changing signal, you have to wait on the other side of the light. I find that on my cargo bike, I end up coasting far faster than the kids can pedal. I've found that I can get caught up in moments of riding just looking at the traffic around you, and suddenly no-one is ahead of you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How to handle turning left at a green light. This matter of right-of-way is not intuitive to elementary school kids. Such intersections are important to agree on stopping at, or a block before, and possibly changing your marching order so that you lead when there is a proper break in traffic. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T06:07:07.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7316" CreationDate="2011-12-14T10:25:50.223" Score="0" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;93mm hubs are standard size for the R20s but on this particular bike there isn't enough clearance between the fork ends to get a wheel in (I'm using an original R20 wheel as a replacement so it's definitely the correct size). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the bike had an &quot;accident&quot; at some point that trashed the front wheel but I don't have any other details about what exactly happened to it, so I'm thinking the front might have been run over by a car or something and that crushed the forks somewhat. They look structurally sound, but would it be a bad idea to cold-set them and draw them apart a bit, or am I possibly missing something in the way I'm trying to replace the wheel? I have no experience with vintage bikes so some guidance would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3051" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T12:00:54.987" Title="Raleigh Twenty forks too narrow to accept 93mm hub" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7315" CreationDate="2011-12-14T12:00:54.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How bad is it?  If it's only a couple of mm then just manually spread the fork slightly as you install the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also make sure that no unnecessary washers have been added to the axle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T12:00:54.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-14T13:17:25.540" Score="4" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/spikes/snow-stud/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Snow Stud&lt;/a&gt; tyres seem like a good winter commuting tyre in places that have only occasional snow/ice conditions. When they are fully inflated they can be used on normal roads and when run on low pressure they should provide good enough grip to cycle in icy conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a following note on schwalbe website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In order to ensure that spikes are permanently fixed, tyres should be&#xA;  run in for about 40km on asphalt, while avoiding any fast acceleration&#xA;  or heavy braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is:&lt;/strong&gt; Should this tyre be run on normal or low pressure for that initial 40km use on asphalt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastActivityDate="2019-09-08T10:59:40.517" Title="Stud Tyres - fixing the spikes on new tyres" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7245" CreationDate="2011-12-14T13:58:05.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.endura.co.uk/Product.aspx?dept_id=123&amp;amp;prod_id=218&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Endura Windchill&lt;/a&gt;. Even though it does not fit your initial description, I have found it excellent for autumn/early winter use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has soft shell fabric in front, on top of arms and shoulders and even more breathable fabric in the back and under the arms. I have worn it with a microfiber liner shirt and a thin merino middle layer at approximately 0 degrees Celsius with good results. In slightly colder weather (around -5C) I replace the base layer with another merino shirt. I expect to wear it for most of the winter with merino+fleece layers underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water resistance is excellent, it does not get soaked through even after several hours of moderate rain. At the same time it breathes very well as it does not have a hard shell layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3053" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T13:58:05.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7245" CreationDate="2011-12-14T14:44:48.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love Ibex stuff. I have a vest similar to this - &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.ibex.com/Outlet/Mens/Momentum-Jacket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://shop.ibex.com/Outlet/Mens/Momentum-Jacket&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own numerous ibex items and I would highly recommend them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wool on the back and the front is wind/rain resistant. In bright orange, it is highly visible and the $135 price tag for ibex is a steal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T14:44:48.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7324" CreationDate="2011-12-14T20:20:58.610" Score="5" ViewCount="6688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got into a discussion at home about where to best store our bicycle helmets. We store our bikes in the garage (a standalone, not attached to our apartment). So, logically and aesthetically my wife wants to store it in the garage.&#xA;My argument against this is that our garage does not temperature control and we live in LA. I think that it can get pretty hot in there during certain times of the year and it can also get cold during other times (winter nights can go down to ~40 F (4.5C)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether these temperatures will affect the foam in the helmet in any way. I.e. will it degrade it's ability to provide protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-12-14T21:32:28.367" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T15:18:31.190" Title="Storing bicycle helmets...will temperature affect the performance of the helmet?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7333" CreationDate="2011-12-14T21:38:16.497" Score="1" ViewCount="4961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2006&amp;amp;Brand=Cannondale&amp;amp;Model=Prophet%201000&amp;amp;Type=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2006 Cannondale Prophet 1000&lt;/a&gt;, that I use for trail riding. I would like to upgrade the Manitou Swinger rear shock I have. How do I know which shocks will work with my bike? Is there a guide to choosing a shock that will fit best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2954" LastEditorUserId="2954" LastEditDate="2011-12-15T20:50:36.527" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T06:19:52.910" Title="Upgrade the rear shock on my bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7301" CreationDate="2011-12-14T21:56:34.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question! I appreciate being quoted by Mac in that I am definitely a big fan of interval training. Interval training is primarily for &lt;em&gt;power and endurance&lt;/em&gt;; but only somewhat for strength. So, there's that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some strength training exercises that can be done with little or no equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These can be done with bodyweight alone; or using dumbbells and barbell. For strength training, it will be more effective with weights than without. It really depends on your fitness level and how hard core you want to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you have, &lt;em&gt;&quot;...a 65cm Swiss Ball, some 15lb dumbbells, but that's about it.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; Ok. With a relatively minimal expenditure, you could add in a kettlebell or two, additional weights for the dumbbells and perhaps a barbell set. At that point, you'd be good to go; but you can easily get started with what you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ball squats - Place the swiss ball against a wall and your back. Do squats with or without the dumbbells.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Split squats - Do these with or without your dumbbells. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single leg Romanian deadlifts - Do these with your dumbbells. (Works core and lower body)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Side lying leg lifts (Works the gluteus medius, and helps prevent ITB syndrome)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kettlebell swings (Works hamstrings, glutes, core and back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for real strength gains, you'll need to add to your home equipment a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I workout in a gym, but this is similar to what I do throughout the winter for strength. When spring comes, I switch over to interval training. I've found that strength training during the cycling season is counter-productive.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** Also, there are numerous links for the above exercises. One of the best links for exercises is here at &lt;a href=&quot;http://exrx.net/Exercise.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EXRX.net&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-12-16T00:44:58.107" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T00:44:58.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7320" CreationDate="2011-12-14T22:56:03.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be much more concerned about the potential damage from summer heat than cold.The adhesives used will soften in the heat along with the drying of the foam inserts might comprimize the safety of the helmet.Most manufacturers reccomend storing in a cool dry place out of sunlight.They also suggest replacement after three years of use.Most likely due to the degradation of the materials from sunlight exposure.I would store it in the back of the closet when not in use,an alternative might be to keep it in your cooler if that is stored in the garage as it would be protected from sunlight and more temperature stable even when it is empty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T22:56:03.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7320" CreationDate="2011-12-14T22:58:29.200" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cold won't hurt it -- foam is used to line refrigerators.  And certainly if the temp is going &quot;all the way down&quot; to 40F (shudder!) that's not even close to a problem -- around here it isn't even &quot;cold&quot; unless the temp is below zero F.  (In general, solid objects are not damaged by cold, though they do often become more brittle while cold and hence more apt to be damaged while in that state.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High temps could be a problem, but again foam (very similar to the stuff used in helmets) is used to insulate homes, where attic temps may reach 150F or so, and it's used to insulate water heaters that run at 180F.  The problem is that extended high temps over, say, 150F,  won't degrade the rigid foam itself, but they will degrade the glues and the foam rubber liner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T22:58:29.200" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7320" CreationDate="2011-12-15T02:08:45.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not entirely convincing evidence, but Giro's website lists helmets under their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giro.com/ca_en/products/cycling-gloves/winter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cold weather riding&lt;/a&gt; section. Also, the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute website (again, I can't vouch for their statements) list some temperature testing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/cold.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;standards&lt;/a&gt; by country. These temperatures are generally below freezing, but not as cold as it gets in some regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that for regular riding in cold weather, a ski or snowboard helmet may be more appropriate. Not the same type of activity, but the speeds and types of impacts that the helmets are designed for seem close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T02:08:45.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7328" CreationDate="2011-12-15T08:48:32.023" Score="3" ViewCount="18697" Body="&lt;p&gt;While bike commuting in an urban setting, I've started noticing that some intersections have flashing yellow turn signals during part of the light cycle. What does this mean? If I am on my bike in the turn lane and a flashing arrow appears, can I proceed with the turn or should I wait for the arrow to turn green?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-12-27T22:35:28.963" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T22:35:28.963" Title="What does a flashing yellow arrow traffic signal mean?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;signals&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7327" CreationDate="2011-12-15T08:48:53.430" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flashing yellow arrows have been introduced in the US recently to help ease congestion at intersections. This signal should be treated similar to a yield sign or a turn lane not controlled by its own traffic signal. If there is no oncoming traffic, you may make a left turn if it is safe to do so, but you must yield to any oncoming traffic and to any pedestrians in the crosswalk you would cross when turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although laws vary regionally with regards to how bicycles are treated in traffic, in most cases a cyclist would handle this situation the same as any other vehicle. If there is no oncoming, you can make a left turn, but be wary of traffic coming the other way. It may be safer to wait if you don't have a full view of oncoming lanes (i.e. if there is a blind corner or low visibility), since it will take you longer to clear the intersection than a motorized vehicle, and drivers coming the other way will not be expecting a bicycle in the intersection during their green light cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This animation &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dot.state.ak.us/stwddes/dcstraffic/fya/index.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from the Alaska DOT&lt;/a&gt; shows how the flashing yellow arrow sequence works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SySd2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;flashing yellow arrow animation&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T08:48:53.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7320" CreationDate="2011-12-15T10:22:30.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes the cold will affect the foam! OK it's a slightly facetious answer but as you say it's a separate garage how secure is it?  In the cold weather the local mice / rodents / what have you will love the foam and use it for bedding material. Make sure it is securely stored otherwise it might get shredded. I speak from experience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2707" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T10:22:30.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7301" CreationDate="2011-12-15T12:35:28.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikejames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike James&lt;/a&gt; has a bunch of information on strength training for mountain biking, and he has also created a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikejames.com/wp-content/uploads/No-Gym-No-problem-BW-Workout.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bodyweight workout.&lt;/a&gt; I've been doing his workouts for around six months now and it's made a massive difference to me, both off-road and on my daily commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific exercises I would recommend are the turkish get up (amazingly relevant to cycling), and, focussing on leg strength, deadlifts and squats. If you only have a light pair of dumbbells there are variations of both which will do you a lot of good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T12:35:28.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7321" CreationDate="2011-12-15T12:57:42.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will also need to make sure the eye-to-eye length is same as your current shock (that's the distance from the centre of the pivot hole in one end to the pivot centre in the other), and that the stroke length is the same.  If either of these is wrong, it will change your bikes geometry and possibly even cause the rear tyre to bottom out against the seat tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a guide to choosing a shock that will fit best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If only it was that simple.  Different shocks behave differently on different frames with different air pressures/spring rates - it would be impossible to make a complete guide.  Not to mention that how the bike &lt;em&gt;feels to you&lt;/em&gt; is unquantifiable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be better to further expand your question to say why you don't like your current shock, and why you think changing it would make your bike feel better.  It may just need to be sent away for a servicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T12:57:42.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5705" CreationDate="2011-12-15T13:21:05.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A road bike’s tyres are very thin and have little tread. A car tyre however is very wide and has a deep tread. You would think that from this that a car tyre would be more suited to gripping the road surface in wet or snowy conditions.  However, because the road bike tyre is so thin, it acts like the deep tread and cuts through the water on the road, parting it like Moses (allegedly) parted the Red Sea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So narrow road tyres, even with only minimal tread can actually be very suited to the rain and snow as long as the road has not iced over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3061" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-12-15T18:44:39.257" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T18:44:39.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7321" CreationDate="2011-12-15T14:40:52.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any shock with an eye to eye length of 20.0 cm (7.9 in) and 5.0cm (2.0in) stroke will fit as a direct replacement for your shock. All the shocks available as OEM options on the 2005 Prohphet used these dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any different eye to eye length will alter the geometry of your bike. Any different stroke length will either reduce travel, or if risk damaging your frame if the travel is too long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to setup, that will depend on your weight and riding style. I will add that the prophet is a single pivot design, so you may benefit from platform technology to prevent bobbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3063" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T14:40:52.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7320" CreationDate="2011-12-15T15:13:31.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should also be concerned with the actual storage conditions - most helmet manufacturers recommend replacing an undamaged helmet every x years just because the foam degrades (largely due to UV light). If it's going to be hanging on a wall in direct sunlight there's going to be problems with UV light hitting it, and if you put it away in a dark corner of the garage and it's wet (sweat, condensation, etc.) you'll have issues with mold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you absolutely, positively have to store it your best bet may be to find a mesh bag (like they use for laundry), store a single helmet in that, and hang the bag up out of direct sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, your best bet is just to ride all year long. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T15:13:31.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7340" CreationDate="2011-12-15T15:16:13.493" Score="7" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am riding down a marked bike lane on a road which is adjacent to the curb, and I need to stop for a very short time (e.g. to adjust something, turn on lights, or drink some water), how far should I get off the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is: As a car driver, if I had to stop I would move onto the shoulder of the road, or otherwise as far right (&lt;em&gt;US, drive on the right&lt;/em&gt;) as is safe for the vehicle. With a bicycle lane, there is no specific shoulder, but I can pick up the bike and move off the road entirely. Should I take the time to do so, even if there is essentially no traffic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if the lane is especially wide (e.g. if it is a bicycle lane to the left of parking space, but with no cars actually present), or if it is only a generously wide road without any markings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am looking for a safety and politeness perspective, not regional traffic laws, though if there is a general trend in law on the matter that is also useful information.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1789" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T19:00:32.130" Title="How far do I “pull over” in a bike lane?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7335" CreationDate="2011-12-15T15:38:31.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on several factors, as you note. If there is no traffic (car or bicycle), then just stop (if a tree falls in the woods...). If there is car traffic only, then move as far to the right as to can to be safely out of the way. If there is bicycle traffic, then it might be worthwhile to move completely out of the bike lane to avoid hindering other cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T15:38:31.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7335" CreationDate="2011-12-15T16:02:20.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a curb, I like to use it as a step so I ride right up next to it and unclick from my pedal and step on the curb while staying seated on the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no curb, I will move all the way to the right and get off the bicycle and get off the bike lane all together typically where there is a sign or telephone pole so I can lean my bicycle up against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in a bike lane that is separated from the curb by parking spaces (for cars), I will ride to the end of the block and move over to the curb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T16:02:20.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7320" CreationDate="2011-12-15T16:34:27.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having lived in Toronto, I have kept my helmet in the attached garage, for year round riding with winter temps down to -20C being common, and summer temps of +30C being common. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replace my helmets every couple of years, as others have noted the adhesives fail, though in my case, probably more from sweat corroding the glue than just the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T16:34:27.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7335" CreationDate="2011-12-15T16:35:50.307" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is any possibility of bike traffic, you should pull over sufficiently to allow others to pass with reasonable ease.  If there is fairly heavy 2-way traffic you should pull over enough to allow two bikes to pass in opposite directions at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, to a degree it depends on how long you will be stopped.  The longer you anticipate stopping the farther over you should pull.  If you need to do significant adjustments of your bike you should attempt to get entirely out of the bike lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T16:35:50.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7335" CreationDate="2011-12-15T17:33:56.017" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please don't block the bike lane or traffic or parking spaces, but use your best judgement; in that order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I feel a curb is a logical and physical barrier which protects you from the activities of the traffic way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Protection&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Getting on a curb means a car that hits you has already been slowed down by a 6 in. cement block applied up to 4 times (4 tires) against the cars momentum. Ever see a car hit a curb? Sure they can plow over it, but they definitely slow down, and change direction. When riding you have several options to evade, but when on foot you are much slower/less agile. Use the curb as a natural defense. Also, I'm not a law expert but I'm sure there are better legal protections for being off the road with regards to this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Courtesy&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Do you look everywhere and try to decide what everyone will do before they do it while riding. I sure hope you do, it will help keep you safe if you can anticipate situations, both while riding and while driving. If you remove yourself from the bike lane you become a non-player to those using the traffic ways. The cars don't have to decide if you might fall over while mounting/dismounting/precariously balancing while tying shoes etc. Like wise for bikers, will you see them when you decide to start? How straight will your line be when you do start etc. Even if you pull over far and look before you start up, you have forced others to do the extra work of thinking through possible scenarios and possibly slowing down, changing lanes or changing routes around a block where you are 'pulled over'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are on a long straight away with no intersections and you can anticipate the traffic for the next 2 min, and you will only take 20secs then who cares. If you don't see anyone, but a car could pull up from around the block in less than 10 secs even though it seems dead you should probably just get over the curb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastEditorUserId="3047" LastEditDate="2011-12-15T19:00:32.130" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T19:00:32.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7327" CreationDate="2011-12-15T18:53:10.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always, it might differ from state to state, but at least in CA the meaning of flashing yellow has been established for a long while already: flashing yellow is equivalent to &quot;yield&quot; sign, just like flashing red is equivalent to &quot;stop&quot; sign. The fact that it is an arrow specifically makes no difference whatsoever - it simply means that the signal applies to the specific direction the arrow is pointing to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you see a flashing red arrow, it means that you are allowed to proceed in that direction after making a full stop (and, of course, yielding the right of way to the interfering traffic). When you see a flashing yellow arrow, you are allowed to proceed in that direction with no mandatory full stop requirement (you still have to yield the right of way to the interfering traffic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, on a busy street the won't be much practical difference between a flashing red arrow and flashing yellow arrow. On an empty street the difference is quite noticeable: yellow arrow allows you to ride right through, while the red one still requires you to make a full stop before turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that flashing yellow left arrow dictates the same turning procedure that shall be followed in case when no arrow is present at all and the light for going straight is green: you can take the turn after yielding to the oncoming traffic. Flashing yellow just makes it more explicit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, imagine an intersection equipped with red and green arrows for the left turn. People who drive through that intersection often would get used to waiting for the green arrow to make the left turn (with red arrow lit up at all other times). Let's say one day the traffic authorities decided that under some circumstances it is OK to allow a non-protected left turn at that intersection (i.e. a turn without a green arrow). How can they do that? Formally, all they need to do is to turn off the red arrow from time to time (without lighting up the green one, of course). However, many people will still continue to wait for the green arrow purely out of habit. And that's where the blinking yellow helps: it tells them explicitly that they are allowed to proceed after yielding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastEditorUserId="2918" LastEditDate="2011-12-15T19:07:52.230" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T19:07:52.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7301" CreationDate="2011-12-15T23:49:24.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if &quot;turkish get-up's&quot; are the same thing, but there's a particularly effective/comprehensive yet minimalistic exercise called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gczI5sINn9U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the man-maker&lt;/a&gt;&quot; that was used by the cast of the film &quot;300&quot;. All you need is dumbells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do what you want for leg strength, but I would argue that core strength is equally if not more vital for cycling (if we're talking about off-the-bike exercise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bike, some righteous category 3-4 hill repeats will promote leg strength as well (if you're lucky enough to have some in your area).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T23:49:24.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5666" CreationDate="2011-12-16T00:41:39.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my BMX in the snow every year and i havn't had any trouble with it, they are indredibly robust so they will put up with most anything you can throw at them. the small gear ratio does help in icy conditions and especially when ploughing through fresh snow. it isnt hard to find a nice tyre that will work in the snow as BMX's are so universal with other kinds of their practice dirt tyre's work fine. Furthermore it is possible to fit normal fenders to the rear of a BMX via the seat post but is less likely to work for the front as of the reduced down tube length.}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;most importantly get out in the snow, and have some fun on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3064" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T00:41:39.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-16T08:19:29.433" Score="2" ViewCount="18961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Merida Matts 20 D frame size 18. I want to use a hybrid bike tire. Can I? The current tire is 26*2.1  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I also need to change the rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3066" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T16:12:35.817" Title="Can I use a hybrid bike tire on my mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7345" CreationDate="2011-12-16T09:47:49.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the tyre diameters are the same, you will be fine. Most 26&quot; tyres will work with most of 26&quot; rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of hybrid tyres are 700mm diameter (28&quot;) and that will not work on 26&quot; MTB wheels, so be aware of that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T09:47:49.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7317" CreationDate="2011-12-16T10:11:02.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought these tires for Scottish winter, will chuck them on pretty soon. I think the idea for this 40km is to break the studs-in, to settle them into the tyre. &#xA;So I would run them on medium pressure: the tyres are not overinflated, but also not on low pressure, sot the studs are engaged, but not 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T10:11:02.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7345" CreationDate="2011-12-16T11:21:54.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three restrictions to use different tires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire diameter: 24&quot;, 26&quot;, 28&quot; - is not the same. Diameter always mention right on the tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;width of frame's leaf. Tire should fit it this space&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the wheel base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if you are talking about the tires with the same diameter the 2) and 3) are fine (almost always. But it can be some issues with very wide tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concerning your question.&#xA;Hybrid has 28&quot; and MTB has 26&quot; wheels. Thus you can not use hybrid's tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3004" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T11:21:54.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7345" CreationDate="2011-12-16T11:52:12.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;So long as the tire diameter (rim size, as stamped on the side of the tire) is the same, and the width is no more than about 30% wider or narrower than the original, and so long as the tire doesn't create interference problems with the frame or brakes, it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your case you need a tire labeled 26, with a width of roughly 1.3 to 2.8.  But likely if you go much wider than your current tire you'll experience interference problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether the tire is labeled &quot;hybrid&quot; or &quot;mountain&quot; or even &quot;road&quot; makes no difference. (Though certain types tend to come in certain sizes -- you won't find many 26 inch racing tires, eg.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-12-16T16:12:35.817" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T16:12:35.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7199" CreationDate="2011-12-16T15:31:34.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of a blown out tire, I put this question through a real world test over the last week.  I typically commute on my mountain bike but switched to my road bike maybe 3 or 4 weeks ago just for fun.  I hadn't ridden it for at least a year and therefore was paying very close attention to the speed; it was about 25% faster than on my mountain bike ... this of course has nothing yet to do with the question except to attempt to lend some credence to my questionable powers of observation concerning the very subjective information coming up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires on my road bike were 700x25's and I kept them at just over 100psi.  The back tire blew out last Friday.  So I bought new 700x28's (Continental Gatorskins if that matters) over the weekend. I filled them at just over 100psi and re-calibrated my speedometer for the very slightly longer rolling distance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;And they are slower&lt;/em&gt;.  This is of course the promised subjective information. But because I was paying such close attention to my speeds on a regular basis on my very flat commute, I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; I have a good handle on the relative speeds.  With the 700x25's I was regularly traveling at 15.5mph to 16mph.  With these new tires my speeds are regularly 14.5 to 15mph.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;test&quot; is not entirely &quot;apples-to-apples&quot;.  While both old and new tires have equivalent rolling surfaces, the new tires are heavier than the old paper-thin 700x25's (even heavier I'm sure than would be the case between the same brand tire of different size).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3067" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T15:31:34.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7356" CreationDate="2011-12-16T16:41:28.907" Score="3" ViewCount="9206" Body="&lt;p&gt;What features are important or of note? What are appropriate prices to pay? Are there specific brands which provide a clear advantage over others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T02:00:18.260" Title="What things should I look for when purchasing a fixed gear bike?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7358" CreationDate="2011-12-16T19:17:04.583" Score="4" ViewCount="4253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's good time that my Brompton had a service and the main two things I'm looking at doing are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Servicing the brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning up the drive train.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to go about these tasks so I don't end up breaking anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1378" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2011-12-17T06:10:20.017" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T14:48:23.157" Title="Service a Brompton" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brompton&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7246" CreationDate="2011-12-16T19:57:27.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may also want to check out custom=made shoes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bont.com/cycling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BONT&lt;/a&gt;. They aren't cheap though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T19:57:27.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7352" CreationDate="2011-12-17T05:42:51.430" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are likely going to get some opinionated comments and answers in response to this question.  There are lots of good brands (frames and complete bikes) from all over the world.  There are more and more options showing up in local bike stores, so if you can it will be best to go have a look.  Even if you choose to purchase online, having spent some time looking at physical hardware will help you make your decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to make an assumption that you're asking about a fixed gear bicycle for road use as opposed to a track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's detailed article&lt;/a&gt; then please do, it's a great place to start.  Without reiterating all of the detail in that article I'll simply point out a couple of highlights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The number one thing that you should look for is a brake.  Again, others may offer dissenting opinions on this, but riding a fixed gear bicycle on the road without a brake is extremely dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain tension mechanism.  You will have to be able to tension the chain on your fixed gear bike as it lacks the derailleur and pulley mechanism that handles that task on traditional geared bikes.  This will likely be accomplished by means of horizontal rear wheel dropouts within which the wheel moves back and forth for adjustment.  You may also encounter models with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket#Eccentric_bottom_brackets&quot;&gt;eccentric bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt; mechanism.  These typically add some weight and may be of less interest to you unless you happen to go for a rear disk brake (in which case moving the rear wheel to adjust chain tension is not an option)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are new to the world of fixed gears then you may be interested in having an option to run a freewheel as well.  A &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flip-flop_hub&quot;&gt;flip-flop hub&lt;/a&gt; can offer the best of both worlds in that you can ride fixed or flip the wheel around and ride with a freewheel.  This adds a small weight penalty and absolutely requires that you install a brake of course.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for price, brands, geometries, gear ratios, frame materials etc. this is very much personal preference and the rules are the same as for any bicycle.  You can typically splurge a little on a fixie because there are far fewer other components that you have to purchase and maintain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2418" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T05:42:51.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2011-12-17T12:41:12.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like using the CO2 canisters because they're quick to pump up.  Particularly for road bike, you can't get a road bike to 110psi using a hand pump.  Most I've got is around 40psi with a hand pump.  That pressure will let you limp home but certainly you can't continue on your merry ride with that pressure for fear of a low-pressure flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also now noticed that the CO2 cannisters will do a great job to get it to 110psi and allow you to continue your ride as usual, however leave the bike overnight and you're tyre will deflate significantly.  I though I had another flat tyre the morning after however checked it all and there were no holes.  So the only thing why the tyre went down is cause I used a CO2 cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get bulk packs of cartridges of ebay for $1.75ea (min of 10 cartridges per transaction), so really not that expensive to carry on every ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3071" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T03:13:13.993" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T03:13:13.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7353" CreationDate="2011-12-17T12:50:53.353" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Brompton doesn't provide any detailed pictures or component data on their web site, so I'm working from the crummy little pictures I can find.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic service is no different from any other bike, with a few twists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get yourself a &quot;chain washer&quot; (and accompanying solvent) to clean the chain, wipe dry with a rag after cleaning, then apply a good chain oil (from a bike shop -- don't use ordinary motor oil or &quot;3in1&quot; oil).  For convenience choose a &quot;dry&quot; oil (the bike shop will know what you mean) unless you regularly ride in the rain -- the &quot;dry&quot; oil will stay cleaner.  Work the oil in by cranking/riding a minute or two, then wipe off the excess with a rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, using the chain washer on the Brompton chain may require that you partially fold the rear wheel to gain enough slack in the chain to do the wash.  Probably hanging it from something by the seatpost, with the wheels still touching the ground, would give you enough slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't use the chain washer, just wipe the chain as clean as possible, douse in chain oil, then wipe again -- not perfect, but should be good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In daily use, ideally clean the chain weekly, and after every ride in the rain.  (Though I personally stretch these intervals considerably.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sprockets don't generally need cleaning unless they become really cruddy, at which point scraping them is the simplest approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the chain tensioner clean (wipe with a rag) and well-oiled with chain oil.  If it gets really cruddy you can spray it with WD40, wipe dry, then oil, then wipe again, then oil again, then wipe again.  (Keep WD40 off the tires and finish.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bikes apparently come with a 1 or 2 speed front sprocket and a 1 or 3 speed rear hub.  Both (if not single speed) will need adjustment after riding for the first 100-200 miles or so.  This should probably be done at a bike shop, since it takes a bit of skill.  Once adjusted (after this break-in period) they shouldn't need further adjustment for 1000-5000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain with the single-speed front sprocket will likely need to be replaced roughly every 5000 miles, and maybe every 2000 with the 2-speed front sprocket.  But it depends on how hard you ride it, and in what conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes (which appear to be relatively standard caliper brakes) similarly should be adjusted after 100-200 miles.  Brakes do wear, of course, and further adjustment may be needed every 200-1000 miles, depending on how you ride the bike.  This is something you can do yourself, but exactly how you do it depends on the style of the brake -- there are generally adjusters somewhere along the cable path that you unscrew to tighten the brakes -- you want the pads to be fairly close to the rim without touching.  If the brakes get off-centered, where one pad is much closer to the rim than the other, you should probably have a shop adjust them.  And when the pads wear down to the point that the metal holders threaten to rub the rims, the pads will need to be replaced (at a bike shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-12-17T14:48:23.157" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T14:48:23.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2011-12-17T18:39:52.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like anything: consistent and repeated hard usage of a mechanical object will shorten its lifespan. How much? That depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the best, short answer to Kevin's, the original poster's, question is a definite &quot;Yes.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer is more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycle frames were and are never designed for, their technical specifications do not include, nor is any testing done to determine their suitability for or capacity to withstand repeated usage on a stationary trainer. Period. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing for use in a stationary trainer would not be difficult for major frame manufacturers, but it would change the design specifications and make bike frames harder to manufacture and even more expensive, and most bikes are ridden outside. So they don't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have personally seen metal frames fatigue prematurely, and all types of frames of different material types fail (i.e. break) from excessive use on a trainer. I've worked for a major manufacturer, a regional distributor and several different retail shops, so I've seen a lot of wrecked frames for a variety of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lawn dart catcher is right on about rollers but there is no set of rollers made that is capable of providing the level of sustained high resistance to allow the development of high power required by most competitive cyclists.  They are used by professionals for base building (endurance) workouts and to develop superior bike handling skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage resulting from sweat can and will occur if not wiped off, so that was also a useful response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other posters who talk about skewer damage are not answering Kevin's question. The skewer is not part of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the extent of frame damage will depend upon the rider's size and strength and their actual pedaling efficiency. Remaining seated as Moz recommends is really not a factor because it depends upon riding style. Many testing facilities have observed that talented and/or experienced riders who climb well produce lower lateral stress on the frame when out of the saddle. These riders inherently know or have learned how to apply torque where it really matters: on the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3072" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T18:39:52.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2449" CreationDate="2011-12-18T15:04:23.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a much debatable topic, but some &quot;facts&quot; should be considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, as Grant Petersen (from Rivendell Cycles) pointed out in his text, for hard, paved roads the best tread pattern is zero, because the tire rubber deforms around the asphalt or concrete texture, and so the zero-thread offers a greater total area of rubber-pavement surface to interlock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extreme opposite, the super-knobby MTB tires, are intended to use off-road, where the surface deforms, having a visco-plastic mechanic behaviour. Instead of only the tire rubber conforming to the road texture, actually the soft terrain is indented and &quot;flows&quot; around the tire knobs, which are required to transmit reaction forces to the ground without slipping, while tractioning, braking and cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the middle, we have all other kinks of pavement (sand, gravel, hard-pack) and thread patterns (grooved, semi-slick, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the directional pattern is only found in Mountain Bike tires intended to be used off-road or in specific kinds of trail terrains. There are tires with a single directional pattern that should be inverted between front and rear. There are tires whose rear-front pair are dedicated counterparts. My favourite ones were the IRC Mythos Kevlar 1.95 and the Pararacer Smoke/Dart 2.2 (beware kids, this last one is VERY OLD!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I found out sometimes it doesn' matter that much if you put a rear tire in front (Specialized Cannibal, a typical rear tire, was great in the front), or commit other heresies. In the end, the general thread pattern, knob size and spacing, overall tire width, and MOST IMPORTANT, rubber characteristics, count more than the orientation of the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's not what Ritchey's &quot;vector analysis&quot; line of tires would try to say to you. By the way, those tires were KING!! (mostly because of their structure and rubber, I'd say).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, this is a lot of chatting, but the bottom line would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the front, always watch for the direction of the tire;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the rear, you can choose, depending if you traction more (uphill) or if you brake more (downhill);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't believe in magic too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2011-12-18T15:04:23.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2011-12-18T22:06:06.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider using a Yardstash product instead of a bike cover. Provides better protection than just wrapping in a tarp or plastic. You can purchase directly from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yardstash.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.yardstash.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3078" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T14:21:24.067" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T14:21:24.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7365" CreationDate="2011-12-18T23:37:55.457" Score="3" ViewCount="3946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for an air compressor and wish to get one which is not under or over powered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking at one in a catalogue which has the following attributes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;40 Litres/min free air delivery&#xA;1hp motor&#xA;Direct drive design (what ever that means)&#xA;8 Litre tank capacity&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to fill tyres at home for my hybrid bikes and mountain bikes up to 60PSI. I will be using a product call &quot;Prestaflator&quot;, which is the air trigger with guage and presta valve connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I am not asking about floor pumps.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorUserId="1547" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T03:05:43.683" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T02:24:10.600" Title="Air compressor to fill up to 60 PSI" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;pump&gt;&lt;presta&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7363" CreationDate="2011-12-19T01:25:12.290" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't bother with an air compressor. Get a proper bike pump.  They are cheaper, and will fill a tire to 60 psi with minimal effort.  A good bike pump will also require less maintenance. Also it'll only take a couple pumps to top up your tires. Much less time than to drag out a big air compressor.  Have you had problems with standard floor/track pumps? What is your reasoning for getting an air compressor over using a bike pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T01:25:12.290" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7363" CreationDate="2011-12-19T02:34:01.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The liters/minute capacity of a compressor says nothing about it's max pressure.  Most compressors intended for air tool use are good to about 100psi, maybe 120, but you need to make sure before you spend your money -- the compressor needs to do maybe 30% higher pressure than your &quot;target&quot; pressure, or you'll be forever waiting for the tires to fill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as others have said, a good floor pump is probably easier to use than the compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&quot;Direct drive&quot; means there's no belt, which is not necessarily a good thing, but common for &quot;compact&quot; compressors.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T02:34:01.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2011-12-19T10:47:57.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have three risk factors - snow, condensing moisture and tires going flat. The solution is to hang the bike and cover it from above so that it is vented from beneath. Hanging will require anything looking like two anchors and some reliable rope. Covering can be made of any strong water-resistant material. Well-vented bike covered from snow and hanging will be protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T10:47:57.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7379" CreationDate="2011-12-19T16:57:03.550" Score="4" ViewCount="3886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new commuting bike (Norco ccx3) which has mechanical disc brakes (Promax DSK-715 Road Mechanical Disc). Thus far I've been pretty happy with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the last couple of commutes, I've noticed an ocasionally 'ting' sound coming from somewhere on the bike when I would hit a bump. This morning I figured out what it was. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the front brake, the pads are a a bit loose in the calipers. That is, the spring clip thing is still in there, but when there is no pressure on the brake cable, the pads can rattle a bit between the caliper and the rotor. With the wheel in, there doesn't appear to be enough room for the pads to slip out and there still is a fair bit of pad left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal, or is there any danger to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="47" LastEditDate="2011-12-22T18:15:13.370" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T18:15:13.370" Title="Disc brake pads are loose in the calipers, is this a problem?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7376" CreationDate="2011-12-19T17:49:16.133" Score="5" ViewCount="12860" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just got a new set of crank brothers egg beater pedals and I can't tell which pedal is for the left side, and which is for the right just from looking at them.  Is there an obvious way to tell without simply trying to screw them in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: There isn't an obvious L and R that I (or another pair of eyes) could see.  The only text I could see was really fine print that mentioned the torque to put the pedals in.  I couldn't see anything in the instructions that appeared to say which one was which either.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastEditorUserId="1131" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T08:15:11.033" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T00:10:33.483" Title="How do you spot the left side pedal on egg beater pedals?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7368" CreationDate="2011-12-19T18:47:59.403" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they aren't marked with a big L and R, you could just inspect the threads. Whichever one has  reverse threads is the left pedal. You can tell reverse threads because they are oriented toward the north-west rather than the north-east.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T18:47:59.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7352" CreationDate="2011-12-19T19:05:58.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would break it down into the following categories...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;conversions&lt;/strong&gt; (road-bike that has been made into a fixed gear, practicable on bikes with horizontal drop-outs). &lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: cheap, &lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: getting chainline right can be a bitch, not worth it for anything better than ghetto.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;road-like&lt;/strong&gt; (slack angles more like a road bike, wide-ish tires are possible, front/rear brakes standard, water bottle mounts exist). Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/steamroller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Surly Steamroller&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: rideable for long distances, &lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: Comfort of a roadbike with all the disadvantages of a fixed gear, bikesnobNYC will make fun of you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;track-like&lt;/strong&gt; (aggressive angles like track bikes, large drop, usually only front brake, no ammenities, steel or aluminum, sometimes carbon fork). Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2012/Track/Track-Series/TK3.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Felt TK3&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/fixed-gear/pista/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bianchi Pista&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: You can actually takes these on velodrome (w/o brakes) and not be laughed at. &lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: Impractical for non-pristine road conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;actual track bike&lt;/strong&gt; (usually sold as frame/fork combo because you already have the wheels and cranks from your previous crash, alu or carbon w/carbon fork, no brake hole on fork, rear wheel is always &quot;shoved under&quot; seatpost). Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/fixed-gear/super-pista-frameset/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bianchi Super-pista&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rideblue.com/tr250.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blue&lt;/a&gt;, etc &lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: This is the real deal, &lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: Really only worth it for a velodrome.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the difference between a track bike and a road bike in terms of geometry. What this translates to in terms of handling will take some writing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Track bike geom (Bianchi super pista)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NP2WT.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AS  490     510     530     550     570    590    610&#xA;BS  515     525     535     550     560    575    585&#xA;B1  523     525     535     550     560    575    585&#xA;C   380     383     383     383     383    383    383&#xA;E   100     100     115     135     155    170    190&#xA;G   76      76      75.5    75.5    75.5   75     74.5&#xA;G1  74      74      74      74      74.5   75     75&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bike geom (Bianchi Vigorelli)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FeQPb.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AS  490     510     530     550     570     590     610 &#xA;Bl  508     525     535     550     560     575     585 &#xA;BS  510     515     525     542     553     569     578 &#xA;C   408     408     410     415     415     415     415 &#xA;D   58      68      68      68      68      68      68 &#xA;E   115     125     135     145     160     175     195 &#xA;F   580     584     585     591     602     607     612 &#xA;G   74.5°   74.5°   74°     73.5°   73.5°   73°     72.5° &#xA;Gl  71°     71°     71.5°   72°     72°     72.5°   72.5° &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T22:07:46.510" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T22:07:46.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7352" CreationDate="2011-12-19T19:48:02.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my riding style and my delightful experience with my converted old steel 10 speed, what I like most in my bike is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively lightweight;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Narrow straight handlebars with always-ready-to-reach brake lever;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very &quot;crunching&quot; dual-pivot front brake caliper (generic brand);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very nice fit for my body-size;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decent crankset with steel chainring (very important to me!);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No rear brake;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;23mm tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the explanation: I use this bike for training and fair-weather commuting. I prefer it over my heavier bike (with fenders, lights, internal-geared-hub, rack) because it is so much faster (for being lighter), efficient (for having a simpler drivetrain and skinny tires) and nimble (for having a narrow handlebar and a trusty front brake). Being all-steel drivetrain (chainring, chain and sprocket), the chain oil keeps clean for much longer than with aluminum chainring, which makes the oil black too soon (and it stains the clothes a lot more!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't like in this bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset bearing has a little play, very annoying and worrysome noises under full braking;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork is of unknown origin. It seems fine, but the fork is for sure the most demanded mechanical part on this bike, since I don't skid, so all my braking goes on it;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front hub has quick-release skewer. I would rather not, because the ability to lock the bike away is more important, I think, than the ease of wheel removal (and fixies are very good for errands);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear sprocket is low quality, so not perfectly centered. It is a pain down there, because I have to be sure the chain is not overtight, and even then there is one position where there is a small slack. It bothers while doing trackstands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I talked a lot, but I avoided to mention brands, I prefer to mention features, many good and pricey bikes might not have your desired features, and many apparently crappy bikes might have just what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought one used and immediately spent 20% of paid price to replace some parts (crankset because of quality, stem and handlebars because of fit). That's the good part of fixies: you never need to spend a lot, since there is not so many parts to swap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T23:28:04.203" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T23:28:04.203" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7367" CreationDate="2011-12-19T21:21:08.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of brakes are these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't sound &quot;normal&quot;. If the pads are touching the rotor when you're not pulling the brake lever, then you have a problem that needs to be fixed. If they're not touching the rotor, then it's not quite as bad, but it's still not OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T21:21:08.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7368" CreationDate="2011-12-20T01:21:01.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you remove your old pedals look at the first one you remove.Compare the threads with one of your new ones,you should be able to notice that the threads are not perpendicular to the shaft but have a slight angle.The angles should appear to be different between the two new pedals,one leaning left one leaning right.If you have removed only one of your old pedals you can match the threads and install the new one.Then remove the second and install the other new one.If they are marked just remember left is referenced to you sitting on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T01:21:01.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7383" CreationDate="2011-12-20T04:02:22.597" Score="6" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheels generally used to have more spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u7RrY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;old timey 36-spoke wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As technology improved and markets changed, manufacturers have taken to making wheels with fewer (and often heavier spokes). I've been told this comes at the expense of having a slightly heavier rim to maintain strength and stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GqmLV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a newer aksium wheel, 20 spokes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that aerodynamics generally has more impact on performance than shaving a few grams, but I was wondering if any manufacturer ever tried making wheels with more, but finer spokes, perhaps to save on rim weight rather than spoke weight. Was this ever done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T16:16:54.660" Title="Did any manufacturer ever try using more, but lighter spokes to minimize weight?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;history&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7368" CreationDate="2011-12-20T18:50:29.123" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is from the Crank Brothers pdf available on their site or in the package:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Eggbeater pedals have either a 6mm Hex, an 8mm Hex, and/or 15mm wrench flats.  Note that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the right pedal has a &#xA;  standard right-handed thread and the left pedal has a left-handed thread&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  For identification, left pedal has a small &#xA;  “L” on the spindle or a small groove around the spindle flange.  The right pedal has a small &quot;R&quot; stamped in the &#xA;  spindle or no special markings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case there was no &quot;L&quot; on the spindle, but there is a small groove around  the left spindle flange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankbrothers.com/support/product_documentation/instructions_eggbeater.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.crankbrothers.com/support/product_documentation/instructions_eggbeater.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T19:22:20.537" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T19:22:20.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-20T22:04:37.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lock my left leg in front of the pedal and put my foot on the ground, it provides good friction control with the foot. Don't try this at home! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T22:04:37.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6983" CreationDate="2011-12-20T23:54:23.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A modern square taper bottom bracket is one piece sealed. They are about $20. I would suggest that you not allow a $20 part to limit your crankset choices. Also, you can buy cranksets with bottom brackets these days. Might I also suggest that you move to the new standard of external bottom bracket? In this system two bearing cups screw into the bottom bracket shell and the oversized spindle is affixed permanently to the driveside crank. This &quot;two piece&quot; crank system is the new standard and is superior in several ways to square taper. By moving the bearings outward you decrease angular load on the bearings (decreased wear) and improve power transfer in the crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T23:54:23.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7367" CreationDate="2011-12-20T23:57:18.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;ting&quot; sounds with mechanical calipers are not uncommon. The rotor flexes when steering and the pads do move a bit. Some calipers use magnets to hold the pads in, some use springs. I wouldn't be too concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T23:57:18.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7368" CreationDate="2011-12-21T00:02:50.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking from the top down standing over the bike and holding the pedals in the way they should go into the cranks, the threads of the left pedal angle like this (towards the left side crank): /////&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threads of the right pedal angle like this (towards the right side crank): \\\\\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both pedals thread in to the front and out to the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T00:02:50.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6973" CreationDate="2011-12-21T02:03:10.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just did a conversion last week and ended up with a mash of Road, MTB and BMX parts.  I did all the measurements but at the end of the day I had no assurance the chain line was straight so my advice is get hold of old parts or cheap parts and fit them and refine the spec of the parts visually.  For example the two chain rings I used varied the chain line by 1.5mm due to material thickness.  Go to bike shops and buy (or get given) old bits such as bottom brackets that are kicking around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3089" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T02:03:10.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7374" CreationDate="2011-12-21T04:32:49.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the best of my knowledge, and my ability to find reference in any old catalog or tech manual, no, that concept has not been tried on a commercial scale at least. It may have been tried on a local scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the math to prove it, but I suspect the balance point between how thin the spokes would need to be to reduce the weight enough to offset the additional weight of more spokes, and the tensile strength those spokes would require to maintain the strength of the wheel without breaking would prevent any weight benefit from being gained, and I know that spokes thinner than 1.8mm have a far greater likelihood of breakage. The butted 2.0/1.5mm spokes which were popular in the late 90's for XC racing wheels proved that to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps we could get the Math or engineering SE guys to comment here?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2011-12-22T04:51:10.470" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T04:51:10.470" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1623" CreationDate="2011-12-21T12:09:47.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of Polartec tights from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coldlizard.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Col d'Lizard&lt;/a&gt; that are the cat's pajamas (or some such metaphor).  Definitely not baggy (when you see them you'll understand -- &quot;I'm going to fit into THOSE???&quot;), and plenty warm down to maybe 5-10F, but they breathe well -- never get clammy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I no longer do winter cycling, but I often use the tights when I run the snow blower.  The snow doesn't stick to them and they keep me warm in the wind without overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T12:09:47.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1623" CreationDate="2011-12-21T15:52:23.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear my Craft Storm Tights for my winter commuting and even some recreational longer rides (I get too hot when I wear them for an interval type of workout).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.craftsports.us/sports/bike/mens-pxc-storm-tights.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://shop.craftsports.us/sports/bike/mens-pxc-storm-tights.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a thermal liner and keep me nice and warm. I also like them for the ease of use, I just slip them over my underwear and off I go. Not skin tight but not loose around the lower legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T15:52:23.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-21T16:20:36.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once I was an idiot and after changing tires and being late to class, I forgot to put in the noodle for my V-brakes for both tires. After slamming the brakes and discovering I had no give, I was about to fly through an intersection that doubles as a highway off-ramp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stopping method? Right shoe rubbed against the front rim (but careful not to put my shoe into the spokes). Suffice to say balancing sucks this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other method for stopping is inherited from riding on ice. It involves shifting weight to the preferred dismount foot (I usually dismount to my left with my right foot on pedal, then touching the left foot to the ground and pushing the bike out to let it slide away. I've not tried it at very high speeds though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3092" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T16:20:36.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7374" CreationDate="2011-12-21T18:28:31.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider in the question of weight of a bicycle wheel is the distribution of the weight and the effect it has on its rotational inertia. A wheel with fewer spokes and deeper rim profile (typically necessary to handle having fewer spokes) will be more efficient in terms of aerodynamics, but will be more difficult for the rider to accelerate. Losing a few grams at the outside of a wheel can make a huge difference in how a bicycle feels even to a non-professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finer spokes have been done to varying degrees over the years, but are limited by material and the need for adjusting tension during the building process and ongoing maintenance. Spokes need strength most at the mounting points (traditionally a threaded nipple and J-bend). Also depending on the adjustment method (threaded nipple, etc...) a spoke must resist that twisting motion or have provisions to allow it to be held stationary while the nipple is adjusted. Double or even triple butted spokes are an attempt to concentrate material where it is needed the most, but at a higher cost of manufacture and less durability due to susceptibility to material flaws and excess work hardening in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I am kind of fuzzy on this, but I seem to recall either Shimano or Zipp stating that the tipping point for number of round spokes to have an aerodynamics effect was 16 or 12. Any number above that did not have any significant difference in changing aero effects. Regardless it was a pretty low number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, wheel/rim/spoke combinations can make a huge difference in the feel, durability and price of your bicycling experience and due to the huge variability in riding style and preference, no one combination is the perfect answer for all riders in all situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3093" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T18:28:31.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1623" CreationDate="2011-12-21T18:33:31.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;REI has a Novara brand rain pant that isn't too expensive.  I use mine all year round, rain or snow.  I don't wear them when it is warm, as they tend to keep moisture in as well as out, which leads to soaked clothing.  However, I believe that is a problem with most rain gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got my pants on sale for around $30 a few years ago.  When I go to the website now, I see that the men's version is around $100 in the catalog.  I'm not sure why the price difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;www.rei.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2585" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T18:33:31.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1623" CreationDate="2011-12-21T21:42:57.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/PantsTights/PRD~5021-691/mec-roubaix-tights-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MEC Roubaix Tights&lt;/a&gt; this year and I have found them surprisingly warm, despite that they are quite thin.  I wore them down to -15 Celsius and had no problems with my legs getting cold.  Depending on where you live, and what you consider &quot;winter&quot; something like this might be just fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T21:42:57.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4910" CreationDate="2011-12-21T22:16:35.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using tire liners, 700-23 / 120 psi, on my bike for about 3 months now and have noticed an increased rolling resistance.  It isn't much, about 1 mph. But it is there since I put the liners in.  That being said, its much better than the flats I was getting every other ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3098" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T22:16:35.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2011-12-21T22:35:34.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forget any type of &quot;winter cycling gloves&quot; below 40 deg (f).  They all suck.  Go with ski gloves and you'll be a happy peddler.  Also, invest in a good full face balaclava.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3098" LastEditorUserId="3098" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T22:40:43.767" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T22:40:43.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="530" CreationDate="2011-12-22T18:50:30.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some once. Never again. The problem is that if you patch once, then have to patch again, the first patch crinkles when the tube deflates and then develops a leak because the patches don't stretch with the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T18:50:30.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="530" CreationDate="2011-12-22T19:58:33.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No! Still the same experience as a few years ago. Don't bother wasting your money on them (again). My experience has been that sometimes they don't even get you home before needint to be reapplied. Carry a spare tube and if you get a flat, take it home with you and patch it with a glue patch, or carry one of the small glue patch kits with you if you are flat prone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T19:58:33.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7402" CreationDate="2011-12-22T20:51:36.050" Score="3" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got an older frame powder coated.  The shop that I took it to doesn't specialize in bikes.  They mainly do industrial grade powder coating and perhaps a car wheel here and there, so I wouldn't consider them the most knowledgeable people when it comes to handling frames.  The frame is lugged steel.  Could the heating process influence the frame's integrity? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2797" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T00:05:42.277" Title="Can the extreme heat from powder coating influence frame integrity of older bikes?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6609" CreationDate="2011-12-22T20:59:13.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure to clean out all grease and oils in the frame tubing.  I just recently had my bike painted and while they hung the frame up to dry, heated grease caused a little defect in the frame on the top of the seat post insert.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2797" LastEditorUserId="2797" LastEditDate="2011-12-23T12:51:55.433" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T12:51:55.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7405" CreationDate="2011-12-22T20:59:36.367" Score="3" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older bike that's in the middle of being rebuilt and I need to take care of the chrome.  The paint is still on the bike so I need to be careful of any chemical or physical processes that may discolor or destroy the finish.  How can I best get that mirror finish back on my pitted lugs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2797" LastEditorUserId="2797" LastEditDate="2011-12-22T22:03:58.617" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T16:16:03.283" Title="How does one revitalize chrome lugging without harming the finish of the paint?" Tags="&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7399" CreationDate="2011-12-22T23:50:43.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;0000 steel wool and elbow grease, follow with a chrome polish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T23:50:43.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6609" CreationDate="2011-12-22T23:54:09.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything must be removed from the frame. Powdercoaters will do the sandblast/strip for you generally. Alu must be chemical dipped. Good powdercoaters will put plastic/rubber plugs in the screw holes so that they remain clean. It's always good practice to chase the threads when you get it back from the powdercoater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T23:54:09.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7397" CreationDate="2011-12-23T00:05:42.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, 400F will not affect frame integrity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T00:05:42.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7427" CreationDate="2011-12-23T05:40:45.037" Score="2" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got these awesome &lt;a href=&quot;http://waldsports.com/index.cfm/wald582rearfoldingbasket.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wald rear folding baskets&lt;/a&gt; as an early christmas present from my Girlfriend.  The hardware they came with will not fit on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesfortherestofus.com/2010/12/batavus-fryslan.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Batavus Fryslan&lt;/a&gt; Rack.  What would be the best way to mount them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3108" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-12-27T09:07:37.460" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T09:07:37.460" Title="Best Way to mount Wald rear folding baskets to the rack on a Batavus Fryslan" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7403" CreationDate="2011-12-23T07:30:11.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRR83gxIdn0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; really helped me with a milk crate mounting. Using the same concept with nylon string, I would expect you could attach your folding basket, only attaching to the non-moving portion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T07:30:11.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7399" CreationDate="2011-12-23T08:53:48.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK I've had success with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brasso.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brasso&lt;/a&gt;, a cloth and lots and lots of elbow grease. Don't apply it with anything so harsh as wire wool or a scourer, just the impregnated wadding that comes with the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately Brasso in the states is a slightly different composition so I can't vouch for it's efficacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3063" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-12-24T04:11:38.177" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T04:11:38.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2011-12-23T14:00:47.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember reading years ago about a fellow (possibly &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Stevens_%28cyclist%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thomas Stevens&lt;/a&gt;?) who rode a penny-farthing across the US.  What stuck in my mind was the description of descending the eastern side of the Rockie Mountains, applying his brake (singular) so much that the hard-rubber tire softened.  When that wasn't enough, he used his gloved hands, alternating them to minimize burning on the hot rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure he'd have used his foot, if he'd been on a safety bicycle instead, but it's hard to get your feet near the rims on an ordinary :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1679" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T14:00:47.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7403" CreationDate="2011-12-23T20:01:26.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use a combination of baling wire and zip ties. I never rely on zip ties alone in a load bearing application. Zip ties will hold the basket tight and the baling wire will act as a failsafe. Use a load rated zip tie and inspect attachment points regularly. Replace zip ties as they break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you can probably find larger p clamps at your local hardware store that will fit your rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T20:01:26.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7411" CreationDate="2011-12-23T20:02:55.587" Score="1" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will a kickstand fit on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2011/archive/utopia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2011 Trek Utopia&lt;/a&gt;? I'm told the standard that bolts in near the front gear won't fit and I read that the one that mounts near the rear axle won't work with disc brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1713" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-12-24T03:54:23.853" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T03:54:23.853" Title="Kickstand compatible with 2011 TREK Utopia" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;kickstand&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4910" CreationDate="2011-12-23T20:09:14.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increasing rotational weight has a significant effect on acceleration and making the bike feel a bit more sluggish. Rolling resistance is a function of tire casing deflection, not so much added weight. Supposedly adding one ounce of weight at the rims is like adding 7 ounces of frame weight. I prefer to run stans sealant in my tubes as opposed to liners. Liners do work, I recommend the Rhinodillo brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T20:09:14.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7409" CreationDate="2011-12-24T02:26:08.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to get a standard kickstand on there unless there is some proprietary frame weld-on by Trek where the stand usually goes. Get a Greenfield kickstand with a plate that looks like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/images/library/catalogs/soc/p350X350m/KI1005.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://harriscyclery.net/images/library/catalogs/soc/p350X350m/KI1005.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll bet this can be made to fit. However, truth be told, a kickstand doesn't really belong on a mountain bike unless it's a bike from a department store like walmart, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T02:26:08.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7399" CreationDate="2011-12-24T03:57:40.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I'm sure you could find a chrome-specific polish, you could try using polish for steel cookware (from the hardware store), baking soda and a damp cloth, or even tooth paste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are more stubborn specs of rust, try a mild solvent and something more abrasive. In this case, try to stay away from the clearer areas because you'll leave a lot of small scratches that would need to be polished out later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T03:57:40.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8676" CreationDate="2011-12-24T04:00:35.260" Score="11" ViewCount="27283" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is it that many people often &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/7411/8&quot;&gt;recommend against&lt;/a&gt; using kickstands on mountain bikes? Does it have something to do with offroad riding (perhaps something could get caught there?), or are kickstands a problem with suspension frames, or what? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bikers riding MTB specifically do not have kickstands. They simply drop a bike on the ground, or lean it somewhere, when they need to park it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is that? Is the added weight really that much of a trouble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-12-22T14:01:54.667" Title="Kickstands and mountain bikes" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;kickstand&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7413" CreationDate="2011-12-24T04:08:55.530" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes don't see kickstands for several reasons. One, they are durable. You can lay one down and it's no big deal, certainly not as big a deal as crashing one. Next, when you're out riding terrain, there's almost always something to lean your bike up against like a tree, fence, etc. Also, as you mention, things can get caught in the kickstand. Lastly, unlike a commuter or errand bike, you don't make a lot of stops on a mountain bike so a kickstand is not as essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mountain bike is being used for a purpose other than mountain biking, then installing a kickstand isn't really a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T04:08:55.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7413" CreationDate="2011-12-24T07:48:27.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kickstands? To answer your question: I think that kickstands are an extra thing that basically gets in the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, there are so many &quot;bike &quot;&quot;leanable&quot;&quot; objects in the man-made world and the natural world; that I feel no need to add a kickstand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For example... in parking my commuter bike at the grocery...I have no idea as to which way my bike will need to lean at the bike racks...I guess I could have a 2-sided kickstand, but I think it would just get in the way and add weight...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have nothing against kickstands and I'm sure the device works for some cyclists...they're quite charming...but, I personally don't see a need for kickstands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ooops! Kick me in the head&lt;/strong&gt; I failed to notice that the question is about Mountain Bikes. Basically, I don't want to haul a kickstand up a nasty trail for no other reason than to park the bicycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-12-24T09:18:32.017" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T09:18:32.017" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2011-12-24T23:24:35.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;CO2 inflators can be a life saver in the winter when you want to spend as little time off the bike as possible or you'll start freezing. That being said, it is a good idea to learn how to use the inflator properly... their operation varies by brand. You wouldn't want to be fumbling on how to operate the inflator in sub zero temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T23:24:35.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2449" CreationDate="2011-12-25T06:35:04.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually mount my tires in reverse of the recommended direction sometimes, depending on the tire. Especially in the rear.  What I've found is that when a tire has directional tread, it is has more grip in one direction. Thinking in terms of the rear tire, I find most manufacturers will put the rotation direction in the way that would provide better grip when braking. So if you are trying to control a slippery decent, you don't want your back tire locking up easily. However that means there would be less grip for slippery climbs, so the tire would spin-out easier. I usually orient my rear tire whichever way I think will climb better, and compromise my downhill braking if needed, since the front tire can handle braking too, but does nothing on a climb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of heltonbiker mentioning old tires, my favorite all around tires are the old Yeti Claws. They shed mud very well, are non-directional, and work front or rear. IRC later made them as and called them &quot;Claw Comp&quot;s. I still have a pair on a bike, but the tires are from like 1998 or so :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2011-12-25T06:35:04.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-25T21:04:45.053" Score="12" ViewCount="91303" Body="&lt;p&gt;While standing up and pedaling, the cranks give in as if shifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seams like I am shifting down, but my hands are off the shifter, almost like the chain is skipping a link. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to a bike repair shop that charged me 30 bucks to replace a chain. However, the problem still exists. What are the likely causes of this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3113" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-02T04:04:52.880" LastActivityDate="2019-08-13T21:53:49.967" Title="While pedaling standing up, bike crank gives in as if shifting, what is causing this?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2011-12-25T22:08:17.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that your bike simply needs a tune-up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A worn chain can indeed cause the problems you describe, and replacing a chain is fairly inexpensive, compared to other repairs to address this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6807/what-harm-results-from-riding-with-a-stretched-chain&quot;&gt;a worn chain is left on a bike for too long&lt;/a&gt;, these problems can become permanent, requiring the replacement of drivetrain gears. How long was this going on before you brought the bike in? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your chain too loose? A chain at the incorrect tension can cause problems like this. A good &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/6846/8&quot;&gt;proper shifting technique&lt;/a&gt; can go a long way towards helping this. Are you shifting before you need to change gears? Shifting under too heavy a load will cause the chain to skip on even the best of bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step would be to give the bike a tune-up, focusing on adjusting the rear and front derailers (or the internal hub, if your bike has one). Also, performing normal maintenance like checking that your shifting cables are at the correct tension and that the drivetrain is clean and properly lubricated is a good idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It's worth noting that &lt;a href=&quot;http://magnificentnose.com/2011/07/04/why-bikes-from-big-box-stores-are-dangerous/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cheaper bikes&lt;/a&gt; from big box stores can sometimes simply not be adjusted to run smoothly. If you have one of these &quot;department store&quot;/&quot;big box&quot; bikes, I wouldn't spend too much on tuning it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2011-12-25T22:08:17.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2011-12-26T01:56:27.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have started by noting which gear (front or rear) is slipping and adjusting the tension on the corresponding shifter/derailleur to bring it closer to correct adjustment. A rule of thumb is, make the adjustment and if it gets worse then you are going the wrong way :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shop changed your chain did they also change the cassette (rear gears). The chain and gears usually wear together and cause the slipping problem so it is a good idea to change them both at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE (2018)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've referred to these Park Tool videos many times to understand and adjust my drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B37TW_YVC8E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool Guide to Derailleurs &amp;amp; Shifting:&#xA;Introduction&lt;/a&gt; (2:35)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZxPIZ1ngY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Adjust a Rear Derailleur – Limit Screws &amp;amp; Indexing&lt;/a&gt; (16:06)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3015" LastEditorUserId="3015" LastEditDate="2018-09-29T13:48:57.093" LastActivityDate="2018-09-29T13:48:57.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7399" CreationDate="2011-12-26T06:07:44.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rub it with some naval jelly and let it sit for a few minutes before attacking it with the steel wool. Wear rubber (not the thin ones, either) gloves when using this stuff.  Follow the instructions on the package carefully.  Naval jelly is a &quot;Lock-tite&quot; product.  If my memory serves, it's active ingredient is phosphoric acid.  Takes off rust like nothing else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="710" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2011-12-26T06:29:50.777" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T06:29:50.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2011-12-26T06:28:42.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have either of two situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain is actually shifting from one sprocket to another.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain is slipping on the sprocket, without shifting to another sprocket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first case may simply indicate that the derailers are not properly adjusted (or may be due to worn components).  The second case indicates that either the rear derailer does not have enough tension for the selected gear combo (maybe the chain is simply too long) or the chain/sprockets are badly worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chain is good for roughly 1000-2000 miles, and a rear cluster for 5000-10000 miles.  And running a worn chain for too long will cause the rear cluster to wear out faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T06:28:42.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2011-12-26T11:06:39.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the advantages given above is that a wheel that is out of true will not rub against the brake pads if using disk breaks.  However I think that this rubbing with rim brakes is really the advantage precisely because it warns you that your wheel is out of true. It is not a good idea to ride in such conditions as the wheel may fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3114" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T11:06:39.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7403" CreationDate="2011-12-27T02:54:12.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After posting this question, I got a twitter response from &lt;a href=&quot;http://teabike.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my local bike shop&lt;/a&gt; where I got my Batavus.  They suggested screw clamps, and I agreed it was the best choice and mounted my rack with them.  Urbanistic tea and bike is awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3108" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T02:54:12.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7429" CreationDate="2011-12-27T03:14:16.470" Score="17" ViewCount="2674" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are claims often made that, eg, &quot;An ounce of weight at the rims is like adding 7 ounces of frame weight.&quot; This is &quot;common knowledge&quot;, but a few of us are skeptical, and our crude attempts at working out the math seem to support that skepticism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's assume a standard 700C bicycle tire, which has an outside radius of about 36cm, a bike weighing 90Kg with bike and rider, and a tire+tube+rim weighting 950g. With the simplifying assumption that all the wheel mass is at the outer diameter, how much effect does adding a gram of additional weight at the outer diameter have on acceleration, vs adding a gram of weight to the frame+rider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked this question over in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/18725/how-much-effect-does-the-mass-of-a-bicycle-tire-have-on-acceleration&quot;&gt;physics Stack Exchange&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:18.040" LastActivityDate="2020-11-11T08:45:25.910" Title="What is the effect of adding weight to a wheel vs adding it to the frame?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;physics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7428" CreationDate="2011-12-27T03:27:41.043" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/18725/how-much-effect-does-the-mass-of-a-bicycle-tire-have-on-acceleration&quot;&gt;answer I got was 2x&lt;/a&gt; -- adding one ounce (or gram) to the wheel at the outer diameter (ie, the tread) is equivalent, in terms of force/energy needed to accelerate, to adding twice that amount to the bike frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer was a bit involved and takes careful reading to fully understand, but the answer can also be explained with this thought experiment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a theoretical weightless wheel, fixed to a stationary axle (ie, not rolling on the ground), and you add a mass to its outer diameter, the energy needed to accelerate that added mass to some tangential velocity is the same as the energy that would be needed to accelerate the mass to the same linear velocity (ie, as if it were attached to a weightless bike frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if our theoretical weightless wheel is not fixed on a stationary axle, but is instead attached to our theoretical weightless bike, we are accelerating the mass both tangentially AND linearly so we add the two energy requirements together, meaning it takes 2x the force to achieve the same acceleration and 2x the energy to accelerate to a given speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer is 2x (and not 7x or 10x or whatever is often quoted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:18.040" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T03:27:41.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7327" CreationDate="2011-12-27T16:51:10.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For left turning drivers, the flashing yellow arrow means the same thing as a circular green light: Yield to oncoming traffic and pedestrians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference is the meaning given to drivers who are NOT turning left. The circular green releases other movements in addition to the left turn. The flashing yellow arrow does not. This allows the flashing yellow arrow to be used when the circular indications are red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3119" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T16:51:10.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7432" CreationDate="2011-12-28T04:54:18.287" Score="3" ViewCount="2109" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the speed of a normal mountain bike vary according to the diameter of the wheels? If it does, will a larger diameter increase the speed or decrease it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if the speed varies according to the size of the gears, will a larger gear (if possible) increase the speed? What are the demerits/disadvantages of such features?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T06:08:14.317" Title="Speed and the sizes of tires/gears" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7431" CreationDate="2011-12-28T05:21:37.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a single gear ratio turning at a constant cadence (revolutions per minute of one pedal), a larger wheel diameter will have traveled farther/faster. A larger wheel would increase top end speed, a smaller wheel decreasing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear ratios are gear ratios. For a given chainring tooth count moving at a given cadence, the smaller the gear in the rear the faster the wheel will turn. The larger the gear in the rear, the slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if you took a road bike that was designed for 700c wheels, and put 20&quot; bmx wheels on it, it would be slower at a given cadence in all gears. The opposite would be true if you could increase the wheel size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T05:21:37.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-28T05:22:58.007" Score="13" ViewCount="16276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://thehippy.net/nucleus/?itemid=1625&quot;&gt;found&lt;/a&gt; a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2007/01/cleat-position.html&quot;&gt;number&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/04/power-to-the-pedal-cleat-position/&quot;&gt;articles&lt;/a&gt; saying there is no advantage in having the cleat under the ball of your foot as opposed to further back towards the arch. The reasoning is that the calf muscle is not suited for endurance efforts and shouldn't be overused while cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most of a cyclist's power comes from the quads, glutes and hamstrings - the lower leg only connecting to the pedal and stabilising what happens above. It doesn't contribute enough to justify its energy expenditure. The idea is there will be more oxygen/fuel left for the bigger muscle groups. Side benefits include a reduction in the overall height on the bike for better aerodynamics and hopefully the elimination of my recurring Achilles tendinitis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This really resonates with me, as I often get sore calves, even when I have positioned the cleat as far back as possible on my shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone aware of any research or information supporting a more forward location for the cleat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T23:21:16.287" Title="Why not place the cleats further back on the foot?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7431" CreationDate="2011-12-28T06:08:14.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that gearing is often described in &quot;gear inches&quot;.  This odd term is a little hard to explain unless you understand that it originates from the old &quot;penny-farthing&quot; bicycles with the small rear wheel and the big front wheel, with the pedals directly attached to the front wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With such a bike, the larger the front wheel diameter, the faster you traveled for a given pedaling &quot;cadence&quot; (but the harder it was to pedal).  So the front wheel diameter determined the &quot;gear ratio&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a modern chain-driven bike a given combination of front and rear sprockets combined with the diameter of the rear (drive) wheel will produce a gear ratio that is expressed in &quot;gear inches&quot;.  Basically, that &quot;gear inch&quot; number is the same as the diameter of the penny-farthing front wheel that would travel the same distance with one turn of the pedals.  (And the larger the &quot;gear inch&quot; number the faster you go at a given pedal cadence, but the harder it is to pedal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T06:08:14.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2011-12-28T12:31:16.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it could be a few things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose / damaged bottom bracket. The play in the crank would cause some ghost shifting. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame flex or damage. As you stand steel bikes flex, and can cause alignment issues (but should be within reason, unless there is damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loose rear derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for flex or looseness in the cranks and bottom bracket. Does it wobble? Try just shifting weight from pedal to pedal without spinning. It should be stiff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cranks fine? check for frame cracks or a loose rear derailleur. Does it wobble a lot when you wiggle it with your hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T12:31:16.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4910" CreationDate="2011-12-28T12:35:17.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes, it will increase rotational weight and slow you down just a bit. But if you experience flats often, this minor slow down will be better than flat repairs road side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use tire liners on my daily riding, training and commuting routes. Then if i race or do a semi-competitive event, take them out for a nice feeling of being lighter and faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T12:35:17.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7433" CreationDate="2011-12-28T12:41:24.137" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, i question why anyone thinks the calf muscle is not suited for endurance. Its a very active component of running, biking, jumping and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ball of your foot can take hours of running, biking and other activity with high pressure. The arch of your foot is soft, and where tendons stretch across. A cleat in your arch would cause massive pain over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the clipped in pedal motion for ideal power is a triangle. Push down, scrape back. This backward pull would be difficult from the arch, and not very fluid feeling. Also likely causing other injuries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I am not a doctor, medical professional or trained in physical therapies. Just an avid cyclist that pushes 4500 miles a year, 2 - 3 centuries on a road bike and several other mountain bike events annually.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="3124" LastEditDate="2011-12-28T16:08:30.477" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T16:08:30.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7368" CreationDate="2011-12-28T12:47:43.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the pedal spindle, right after the threads, there is a 1/4&quot; wide smooth metal bushing. One will be totally smooth, the other will have a thin groove in the center. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left pedal will have the groove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T12:47:43.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7291" CreationDate="2011-12-28T12:52:04.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either a cheap road tire, or some manufacturers sell a trainer specific tire. Very smooth, hard and easy to get on and off. These will last 2 - 4x longer than just a cheap tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example trainer tire for $30&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1069774_-1___&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1069774_-1___&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T12:52:04.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7168" CreationDate="2011-12-28T12:55:35.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heavy, small frame size, awkward fit and small tires all contribute to the overall ride quality, and difficulty. Not really suited for longer distances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T12:55:35.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7291" CreationDate="2011-12-28T14:03:19.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use worn road tires that I've taken off my road bike.Ask your friends to save theirs.The slicker the tire (most worn least tread=less noise) the better.If they only last a month that is only two or three changes per winter.The plus is they are free and its better for the enviroment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T14:03:19.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7374" CreationDate="2011-12-28T16:16:54.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the added hub and nipple weight, the rim would be weaker from the extra holes. Less holes in the rim, the stiffer the rim actually is. So less spokes is actually better. To a point of course. Even carbon tri spoke HED3 wheels are only a little lighter than a nice spoked wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T16:16:54.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2011-12-28T16:26:57.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could go with a 'monstercross' style bike. Generally a 29er, but with a narrower, lower volume tire than typically found with 29ers. Like a 40 or a 45 size tire would give you some added softness and volume to take the edges off the trail, but give you a fast ride. Front fork optional. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just a normal mtn bike / 29er with a high pressure tire like a specialized fast trak LK. a 2.0 tire can be light, fast and good on road, hard back, and the rough stuff. I have run these in the past at up to 80psi for the super hard trails, dirt roads and pavement, but lowered back to 32 - 35 for actual trail riding. It was a great all around option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T16:26:57.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7456" CreationDate="2011-12-28T21:20:14.123" Score="8" ViewCount="18005" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Wikipedia entry &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadence_(cycling)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Recreational and utility cyclists typically cycle around 60–80 rpm.&#xA;  According to cadence measurement of 7 professional cyclists during 3&#xA;  week races they cycle about 90 rpm during flat and long (~190 km)&#xA;  group stages and individual time trials of ∼50 km. During ∼15 km&#xA;  uphill cycling on high mountain passes they cycle about 70 rpm.&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadence_(cycling)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  Sprinters can cycle up to 170 rpm for short periods of time.[citation&#xA;  needed]. The professional racing cyclist and Tour de France champion&#xA;  Lance Armstrong is known for his technique of keeping up high cadences&#xA;  of around 110 rpm for hours on end to improve efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the techniques to improve cadence? I am not targeting this question to touring or long-distance but for endurance-riding, meaning training for longer-distance with higher HF and higher speed. I like to do short repetitions for about 10 minutes with high rpm above 120 but I am not sure whether it is ideal and I am not sure how much resistance I should add during such periods. What kind of exercises do you do? The exercises do not necessarily need to be even on bike, as long as they meet the goal to train endurance-riding with higher cadence over longer time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what the last sentence in the wikipedia means actually: to improve efficiency through cadence? Anyway, I am looking for ways to improve average cadence &amp;mdash; perhaps it will improve my efficiency also, not bad thing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some Perhaps Related questions or Useful Info&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-improve-my-stamina&quot;&gt;How can I improve my stamina?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A-bit-fuzzy and targeted-to-runners article about &lt;code&gt;&quot;faster running and better long-distance results&quot;&lt;/code&gt; (using short sprints with hills) but perhaps good training also for cyclists, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.runnersworld.com/article/0,7120,s6-238-263--12079-1-1-2,00.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps helpful about endurance and speed, also about running, question &lt;a href=&quot;https://fitness.stackexchange.com/questions/1531/exercises-to-improve-speed-and-running-ability&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; targeted to younger audience. Not sure whether relevant to improve the cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In running, they have a trendy thing called &lt;code&gt;&quot;barefoot running&quot;&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;&quot;neutral running&quot;&lt;/code&gt;, this answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://fitness.stackexchange.com/a/1973/2598&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; claims that it can improve the cadence at least for running, no idea whether something like that could work in riding a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user652" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:48.723" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T05:51:33.750" Title="Techniques to increase average cadence for endurance-riding?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7168" CreationDate="2011-12-29T02:25:45.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many folding bikes sacrifice ride-ability for portability. I have a Brompton M6R... when used for short distances and/or multi-modal commuting, it is great. You ride upright, no need to wear cycling specific clothing and no need to carry heavy locks since you can bring it with you and fold it under the cubicle. However, it is not as stable as a full sized bike... it is twitchy and obviously will not go as fast. Unlike my other bikes, I cannot ride the Brompton hands-free unless there is relatively heavy luggage in the front rack. The 16&quot; wheels also mean you have to watch out for deep cracks / sharp potholes or run the risk endoing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR; The light loading of the front wheels on many folding bikes make them twitchy and relatively unstable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T02:25:45.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7444" CreationDate="2011-12-29T03:23:39.077" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to change your cadence, just change it. Take your cruising gear on your bike and calculate what your current cruising cadence is. Let's say you usually cruise at 16mph and your typical cadence is 75. If you want to be at 90, go into a lower gear and try to keep the same speed. This will increase your cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of a high cadence is that the higher the cadence the more aerobic you are (more cardio, less muscular). This will naturally increase your lung capacity providing increased stamina at any cadence because your vo2 max (google this) will increase with regular cardio sessions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T03:23:39.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7449" CreationDate="2011-12-29T10:38:39.170" Score="1" ViewCount="20333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got this stationary bike, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yorkfitness.com/products/170-exercise-cycles/1486-c202-cycle.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;York C202&lt;/a&gt;, which has developed a problem - namely it &quot;clicks&quot; when pedaling. This is highly annoying, as there's nothing I seem to be able to do about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I diagnosed the fault as per: the pedal crank axle moves sideways by about 1mm every revolution of the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how to fix it though. I was googling around for different types of bottom brackets, but this bike seems to use some custom one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a nice diagram of all the parts involved on the last pages of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yorkfitness.com/instructiondownloads/Exercise%20Cycles_Anniversary%20c202%20Cycle_instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF manual&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The C Clips are inserted into grooves on the axle itself, so I can't move them - it seems logical that it should be possible to either move the bearings further apart (screw them out of the frame by 1mm) or put some &quot;placeholder&quot; between the C Clip and the bearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However - the C Clip rotates against the bearing, so it wouldn't be a secure fit for any contraption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you advise? How can I fix this? I imagine I'd need some special tools for the job, which ones will I need? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3130" LastEditorUserId="3130" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T21:24:25.850" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T21:24:25.850" Title="Stationary bike &quot;clicks&quot; when pedaling - crank axle is moving sideways. How can I fix this? " Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;stationary-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7448" CreationDate="2011-12-29T12:17:06.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike has individual cartridge bearings -- not at all standard for a &quot;real&quot; bike, and a bit unusual for even an exercise bike.  (In fact, though I've seen a half-dozen different types of exercise bikes taken apart I've never seen anything like this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's not a terribly complicated setup.  The C-clips hold the axle in place.  The ring against which the C-clips ride is the inner race of the bearing and rotates with the axle.  If you can find a bushing (washer) of a suitable diameter and thickness it can be inserted between the C-clip and the bearing -- fairly easily accomplished by someone with moderate mechanical abilities.  You should only need the bushing on one side.  The one thing to be wary of is to get the crank arm back on tight, as a loose crank arm quickly destroys the mating surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A well-equipped hardware store should have a selection of bushings (and some spare C-clips, should the one on there be damaged or go flying across the room).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There is also an old mechanic's trick:  You could work some coarse string into the gap, twisting it around the axle several times.  It should stay in place fairly well, without anything to secure it, especially if you dab on a little grease or petrolatum.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T12:17:06.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7448" CreationDate="2011-12-29T15:45:54.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at your photos you might have worn bearings,that appears to be bearing grease at the one o'clock positionrelative to the shaft.The grease escapes as the internal tolerances increase.If you can find local supply store that has hardware Agway,Eastern Bearing,Farmer Supply etc, try to find a wave washer also called a thrust washer with an inside diameter the same as the shaft. They look like a conventional washer but are very thin and have a bend in them .This will take up the gap between the snap ring and the bearing.this will be a more permanent solution.I would check your wire spacer frequently to be sure the end sdon't get caught in the bearing shield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T15:45:54.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7452" CreationDate="2011-12-29T16:50:14.733" Score="4" ViewCount="1302" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has this red reflective light right below the seat (I don't know its name), and I'm thinking of buying a seat bag such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00165P4X6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. Won't the light be covered? Isn't this potentially dangerous? How does one fix it normally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3132" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T18:28:26.497" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T18:59:05.917" Title="Rear red light with seat bag" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7451" CreationDate="2011-12-29T17:07:15.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reflective brand name tab on the rear of that seat bag is a light holder. You will most likely need to remove the light from the seat post. Hopefully it has a clip styled mount, otherwise you can get a light that has a clip mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T17:07:15.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7451" CreationDate="2011-12-29T17:08:58.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's only reflective you have currently, then you might want to buy a separate battery operated active light, and place it below the bag on the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume the bag is designed to fill most space available, and hence would obstruct the existing light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3130" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T17:08:58.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7451" CreationDate="2011-12-29T18:59:05.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a little sad that the bag doesn't come with a proper reflector, but a clip-on unit can be added, as suggested.  The flashing red LED clip-on tail lights are quite inexpensive, will run continuously for a week or two on one set of batteries, and are well worth the investment, though make sure that there is at least some degree of passive reflector function in the clip-on and/or the cloth of the bag as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T18:59:05.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7433" CreationDate="2011-12-29T22:08:00.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a school of thought that advocates the mid-foot position. A longtime friend of mine (and doctor) who does a lot of singlespeed, high-torque endurance riding brought the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biomac.biz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Biomac&quot;&gt;Biomac website&lt;/a&gt; to my attention back in 2009. Their developer Götz Heine is an ex pro, and chiropractor. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joe Friel&lt;/a&gt; has also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2007/02/biomac-shoes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;favourably reviewed&lt;/a&gt; the Biomac shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I started migrating my cleats backwards from the ball of the foot in 2005 and it took four years to move them as far back as they will go in off-the-peg shoes. It hasn't made a difference to my feet; the cleat nearer the arch causes no pain when used with a stiff (carbon-soled) shoe. Subjectively it does however ease the stretch in my calves and I now get less cramp during 12 and 24-hour solo race efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realise that's hardly scientific evidence, but the cleat range on off-the-peg cycling shoes won't allow you to move the cleats far enough back to harm yourself, so trying it for yourself is perfectly feasible. Be aware that it does take time for your muscles to adapt to the new position and your feet to learn where the pedals are, so just going out for a couple of hours isn't the basis for making the decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3063" LastEditorUserId="3063" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T08:01:00.123" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T08:01:00.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7444" CreationDate="2011-12-29T23:24:28.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good option may be interval training...which extends well beyond cadence in effect...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some background first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High cadence in an &quot;easy&quot; gear means that you are primarily taxing your cardiovascular and respiratory systems. Basically, this is aerobic activity in which one can engage for long periods of time. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low cadence in a &quot;hard&quot; gear means that you are taxing the skeletal muscles such as the quads, hamstrings and glutes, etc. Since you are using a bigger gear you're relying more on what is commonly called the anaerobic energy system. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gist of higher cadence riding is that your heart and lungs can take repeated punishment for long periods of time (and they recover quickly after hard efforts,) while your muscles will fatigue relatively quickly and recover more slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since your training goal is to boost your average cadence, an effective method for improvement is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interval_training&quot;&gt;interval training&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...a type of physical training that involves bursts of high-intensity work interspersed with periods of low-intensity work. The high-intensity periods are typically at or close to near-maximum exertion, while the recovery periods may involve either complete rest or activity of lower intensity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are at least several forms of structured interval training programs such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fartlek&quot;&gt;Fartlek&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-intensity_interval_training#Tabata_Method&quot;&gt;Tabata&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1934030473&quot;&gt;Chris Carmichael's Time Crunched Cyclist&lt;/a&gt;, as well as other well known cycling coaches. So, to train for cadence, you'd pick a method; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you would alternate low cadence (low intensity) with high cadence (high intensity) for the intervals&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. By diligently following an interval training program, you would probably see improvements in your average cadence in a relatively short period of time (1 - 2 months).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing more about your specific current conditioning, I cannot offer a particular plan; however, I and others have had great results with the Chris Carmichael method. And a nice quote by Carmichael from his book (p.42):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, however, that there's no magical cadence everyone should shoot for. Rather than aim for a specific number, I recommend athletes try to increase their normal cruising cadence and climbing cadence by 10% in a year (with the understanding that very few cyclists can ride effectively at sustained cadences above 120 to 125 rpm on flat ground). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note one: Cadence training is much easier with a cycling computer that monitors cadence.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note two: Interval training is difficult and should only be done 1 - 3 days per week and not on sequential days.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After taking a look&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; at Joe Friel's blog via the link provided by &lt;em&gt;Dana the Sane&lt;/em&gt;, I noticed that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2011/07/intervals-part-1.html&quot;&gt;Joe Friel has an excellent 5 part article on Interval Training&lt;/a&gt;. A quote from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2011/08/intervals-part-4.html&quot;&gt;Joe Friel article on Interval Training, Part 4&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Speed skills sessions are intended to improve efficiency by improving movement skills. This usually involves doing drills to refine or learn a technique. Drills are common in swimming. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A typical cycling drill is to increase the pedaling cadence in a low gear to a max level for a few seconds every few minutes while relaxing the body.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Runners do “strides” workouts in which they run fast, usually down a slight hill, while focusing on one aspect of technique such as foot position at strike. There many, many drills for each sport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2011-12-31T05:51:33.750" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T05:51:33.750" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7461" CreationDate="2011-12-30T05:02:24.553" Score="5" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I saw few cyclists at night with blue neon lights attached to the spokes on their rims. They just kept one each at the back, so it wasn't that effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But having at least 2 of such lights (both front and back) can make a rider very visible at night and avoid possible dangers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The riding style I am talking about is for both commuting or trailing at night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How effective are these lights? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-01-03T00:54:04.353" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T22:21:01.043" Title="How helpful are neon/led lights on the rims, while riding at night?" Tags="&lt;led-lights&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7444" CreationDate="2011-12-30T05:02:28.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cadence you ride at is far less important than your abilities, such as efficiently, and your fitness. An authoritative reference on peddling efficiency is this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2009/12/pedaling-drills.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joe Friel&lt;/a&gt; blog post. The post outlines rationale describing the importance of efficiency and overviews of several pedalling drills. For some sample workouts using this type of drills, you could consult &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0736054995&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Serious Mountain Biking&lt;/a&gt; by Ann Trombley, though there are doubtless many others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be wary of training 'Red Herrings'. Cadence is a critical component of cycling, but even among experts, there is always some amount of disagreement on what techniques are most effective for individual riders. My opinion is that 'practice by doing' is often a good way to improve specific cycling skills. Only when you reach a lengthy plateau in your improvement, is it necessary to spend a lot of time using specialized techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T05:02:28.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7433" CreationDate="2011-12-30T05:14:04.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try sprinting with foot back at the pedal. Is it possible? I hardly think so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this depends on type of ride, and what's the riders style. For racers, mountain bikers, who have to shift their riding position depending on the approaching terrain, there cannot rely on hard and fast rule to where to position, unless its clipped. The position can(and should) vary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a road cyclists who is sprinting, it will be a worst nightmare if he thinks he can sprint with foot far back at cleat. &lt;code&gt;I tried it once, sprained my ankle, out for weeks :(&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a downhill, placing your feet at the back will help you shift you weight towards back, may be helpful at some slopes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T05:14:04.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7458" CreationDate="2011-12-30T06:43:48.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything that makes you more visible is helpful. Look at the Monkeylectric lights, in my opinion those are the best ones on the market at this point in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T06:43:48.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2011-12-30T07:50:02.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, as an addition to all the answers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a possibility of the puncture being too tiny. And cannot be found easily, through submerging techniques or any other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that case, only one last thing remains, inflate the tire at least 150% or double it up, if it is resistive. And then submerge it in the water. You will surely find the puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of puncture occurs in old tires or bad quality tire. And this method should only be applied as last option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T07:50:02.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7433" CreationDate="2011-12-30T11:10:31.823" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toe overlap due to feet being further forward is only an issue at low speeds - you don't corner by turning the bars, you lean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not that the calf muscle is not suited to endurance, the issue is that it is contributing very little actual power during the pedal stroke (it's just stabilising) and yet it is using up energy that would be better saved for the 'worker' muscles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Properly-fitted stiff-soled cycling shoes basically negate the ball/arch pain comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Midfoot is not suited to sprint events or crits where rapid changes of pace occur - it's suited to steady state events - TT, Triathlon, Audax, etc. Something like 6 out of top 10 Kona Ironman finishers were using midfoot. The winner and second place of RAAM both use midfoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I'm shortly going to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://thehippy.net/blog/midfoot-cleat-positioning/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;testing midfoot for long distance time trials, you can read about any progress (good/bad) here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3139" LastEditorUserId="1198" LastEditDate="2016-10-07T23:21:16.287" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T23:21:16.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7468" CreationDate="2011-12-30T11:37:07.487" Score="1" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mountain bike in the hills of South Wales. I am due a new bike and have been riding a 17kg full sus for a few years now. I mostly ride 15-20 miles every week (hopefully more when the summer arrives) of moderatley technical terrain and the occasional trail center and big ride. I'm of average skill and a fairly hefty guy at 14.5 stone and often give the bike a good few knocks and abuse.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot decide whether to buy a full suspension or hardtail bike. My budget is £1000. There are a few half decent full sus' bike around for under this with the current sales. Also a load of really good hardtails. Can anyone point me towards something suitable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T17:54:23.010" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T12:27:48.470" Title="Full suspension or hardtail for offroad in South Wales" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7458" CreationDate="2011-12-30T11:41:11.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a single red light on my rear spokes. I find that at night, cars that are joining the road perpendicular to my direction of travel tend to notice me more because my front and back lights don't give much light sideways. It's more useful on roads that are not lit and I have since purchased a high-visibility vest which should make me glow and be impossible to ignore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T11:41:11.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7458" CreationDate="2011-12-30T12:28:54.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly you should at least have wheel reflectors if you ride on roads at night.  Most auto/bike accidents are not due to &quot;overtaking&quot; but occur at intersections and driveways, so side visibility is important.  And some sort of light or reflector on the wheels is much more effective than on the fixed part of the bike, since the motion gets your attention quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question would be what style of light/reflector is reasonably bright/effective while not weighing too much or being too bulky and not requiring frequent battery changes.  The light needs to be steady or rapidly flashing, as a slow-flashing moving light will be more disorienting than effective.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, turning them on/off is an issue.  They could be centrifugally activated, but then they would tend to go dark when you slowed substantially, probably not a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T12:28:54.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7465" CreationDate="2011-12-30T13:44:15.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there are a few full suspensions in that range, they will be heavy, and mid to low level parts. Saving a bit longer and waiting (hard i know) Maybe £1200 - 1500 would get you much further.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your current bike is 17kg. a £1000 bike may only save you 1 - 2 kg. A nice hard tail within your budget would be very light (12 - 13kg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be a 29er. the bigger wheels, and high volume tires will really help with overall comfort and capabilities on rocky technical trails, while still being fast and lighter than the full suspension in that range (but likely still 14 - 15kg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T13:44:15.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7465" CreationDate="2011-12-30T15:02:39.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This ground has been covered a couple of times, probably best &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/6238/213&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say in the comment to Matt Adams that this will be purchased through a cycle to work scheme - if you are planning on using it to commute at all I would strongly recommend a hard-tail over a similarly priced full suspension bike for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hardtail will be substantially lighter than a comparably priced full-suspension bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hardtail will likely have a higher level of components and possibly a better front shock because of the increased expense associated with the full suspension frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unless you can lock out the rear suspension, you will have higher pedal efficiency on the hardtail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For commuting, the hardtail will better accommodate fenders and a rack, which are huge improvements to commuting comfort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your style of riding may dictate that an full-suspension is appropriate, so the best thing to do would be to describe how you want to ride to the professionals at your local bike shop and listen to their advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T15:02:39.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-30T16:49:15.703" Score="1" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;Details:  I mostly enjoy XC and all mountain riding. However, I also from time to time, will go out with friends on some much more intense downhill trails.   I'm also about 240 pounds, give or take.    So, while I really really like my bike, and the geometry is fine (as far as I'm concerned) even for some downhill.   The fork I'm running now is an older Fox 125 RL. But, being 245# and bombing downhill really makes me nervous.  Since my bike is pretty high-end (titanium fame, King/Thomson/Race Face.....etc), I'd like to just (if possible....and maybe it isn't) add a really, really solid fork up front.  Weight it not an issue (for obvious reasons).  Geometry obviously is, as the bike is designed for 80-100 travel up front.  I go 125....but that's it.   Is there such a thing as a fork with 36mm or larger uppers with only 125mm or less travel??     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope I can turn this xc bike into one that can handle &lt;strong&gt;anything&lt;/strong&gt; thrown at it with my 245# riding.   ??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3142" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T16:19:00.587" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T16:19:00.587" Title="What's the beefiest front shock (26&quot;), avail in quick release, with travel of 100-125mm (no more)?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7470" CreationDate="2011-12-30T17:14:24.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fox shox are really hard to beat. I was 230 at one point and really threw a lot at my RL. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the air pressure up to the right PSI for your weight and lube those stanchions with a teflon lube. You'll get a decade of use out of that fork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T17:14:24.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7473" CreationDate="2011-12-30T19:23:28.737" Score="9" ViewCount="33970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a ~1993 Giant mountain bike.  It's not great, but I am a very new and casual rider.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has a solid fork and it makes for the predictable rough trail ride.  The trails are generally fairly modest (I live in North Texas, a 100' change in altitude makes our ears pop here) and the surface is generally dirt (very few rocky areas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I am thinking that it would be very nice to have a suspension bike.  And seeing that a modest fork can be purchased for a modest price, I am wondering if it makes sense to add a fork to this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2568/replacing-suspension-with-a-solid-fork&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; asked about going the other direction, and there were some cautionary words about changing steering geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, on balance, is this something that I would be best off to avoid?  I suspect that if I have to replace a bunch of steering parts, the cost will quickly approach that of a new low end bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3144" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T03:37:59.353" Title="Is it possible/sensible to add a suspension fork to an old mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7472" CreationDate="2011-12-30T21:11:43.583" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would consider looking at a used later model bike.The improvements made in the last 18 years are worth the money.A decent fork can run hundreds of dollars not including installation. Check with your local bike shop for used bikes or craigs list if you keep it local so you can see before you buy.Bikepedia is a good reference to make sure you have an idea what the bike cost new. Also check the minimum inflation recommended for your tires and run them softer than you have been,this will cushion some of the bumps.An alternative might be to install the biggest 26 inch tires you can fit in your frame and lower the tire pressure to get more shock absorbtion.Be careful of really lowend bikes from the big box stores Walmart etc. a really cheap shock with no dampening or adjustment is worse than no shock.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T21:11:43.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7472" CreationDate="2011-12-30T22:58:43.657" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the main problems with converting an old bike is the width of the headset.  Old rigid mountain bikes[1] commonly have a 1&quot; headset while modern suspension bikes have a 1 1/8&quot; diameter headset.  Suspension forks are mostly for 1 1/8&quot; headsets so fitting suspension to an old rigid mountain bike is normally a non starter for that simple reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The geometry is another good reason and may in fact be part of the reason that bike manufacturers decided to use the different diameter, to prevent the conversion of bikes that weren't designed to bounce.  It may also be that with the wider tubes they can take more load allowing the bikes to take more of a beating.  Of course it all could be a conspiracy to take our money, but honestly, I think the technology has just changed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I'd recommend keeping the old bike for getting about and getting a newer bike for doing the more hardcore stuff.  Brake technology has improved dramatically, the bike frames are built stronger and lighter, and the gears generally shift smoother and more reliably.  And that's trickled down quite nicely to the cheaper bikes too.  There is a limit to how cheap you want to go for doing proper off road, but you don't have to spend too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] Note that there are still new bikes manufactured with 1&quot; diameter headsets, but they are normally cheap rigid bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T22:58:43.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4833" CreationDate="2011-12-31T03:25:24.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Those merino boxers you linked to aren't cycling nicks, they're just&#xA;  underwear. You'd still have to wear somethign over the top of them. If&#xA;  you're spending any time in the saddle I'd suggest a proper pair of&#xA;  cycling nicks - with a chamois. That said, I got some cheap merino&#xA;  thermals at Aldi, and they're great. Warm in the wet, but not sweaty&#xA;  like lycra. You can even machine wash them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I accept this comment, to get this question away from unanswered list. I will remove this if the original commenter makes the comment as answer. I think the comment/answer is good because it cuts the marketing facade into issues such as proper pair of cycling nicks (with a chamois) and machine-washing -- and needless to get some XYZ -branded merino [wf]-ools, even discounters offer proper ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T03:25:24.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7465" CreationDate="2011-12-31T12:27:48.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem to be forgetting the second-hand market, a grand can get you a fantastic 2-3yr old bike of any variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was my money, I would much rather have a 2yr old bike that was worth £2.5K new, than a £1K new bike.  &lt;strong&gt;Paint scratches don't affect the ride&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T12:27:48.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7486" CreationDate="2011-12-31T16:54:56.313" Score="6" ViewCount="12164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a commuter with a ~13m daily round-trip. I've been riding this on an MTB for 8 years, but I'm looking to upgrade. I recently tried out a 2012 model Specialized Tricross; this having been recommended as a road bike that retains the commuter niceties  (rack/mudguard mounts, etc) and can handle the light gravel tracks that form part of my route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love the bike, but I found one fundamental problem: The cantilever brakes set off this (initially) terrifying judder under pressure. On one downhill section, I couldn't brake enough to stop accelerating without this vibration running through the whole bike (and me), massively increasing my stopping distance. As a commuter in Oxford, being able to stop quickly and confidently is a must; something I've always been able to maintain with the V-brakes I'm used to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back at the shop I was told that the judder is something that all CX bikes share, and that it might have been accentuated by the fact I was on a fresh bike on wet roads.  I've also read that softer shoes and toeing in can help reduce the level of vibration, but that nothing can be done to remove it completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can anyone point out a way to address this? Is it something I'd simply have to get used to, or have I just picked the wrong kind of bike for my needs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to 'grivooga' at Reddit (via Cyclo), this is an ideal description of the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What happened is that the fork blades and&#xA;  your headtube flexed. Just a little but enough to change the distance&#xA;  between the brake cable stop and the brake arms. This caused the&#xA;  brakes to pull harder. Something had to give, either the tire will&#xA;  skid, the brake pad will skip, or you'll go over the bars and crash.&#xA;  In this case the brake pad skipped on the rim. That released the&#xA;  pressure momentarily the frame and fork flexed back then the pad&#xA;  caught again and the process repeateded. The whole process happens&#xA;  very quickly, many times a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try one of the recommended fork-mounted hangers, along with some better toe-in and maybe softer compound pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future readers: After a couple of telephone discussions and a short wait, I took it out again with a fork-mounted hangar attached as shown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UVMXz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tricross 2012 with Fork Hanger&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red circle shows roughly where the original hanger was situated. With the drop significantly reduced, all I feel now is the occasional soft vibration, and only when I lean fairly hard on the front brake. Enough of an improvement that I bought the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2388" LastEditorUserId="2388" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T21:51:38.310" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T07:54:32.273" Title="Dealing with very juddery cantilever brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7477" CreationDate="2011-12-31T19:37:19.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming I know what you mean by &quot;judder&quot;, properly adjusted cantilever brakes with decent pads will not do that.  They will screech and sometimes vibrate (as will all caliper brakes) when not properly toed-in, or with worn pads, but proper adjustment (and pad replacement as needed) should fix that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T19:37:19.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2011-12-31T20:39:59.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An additional resource that may point the way for the future: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boston.com/news/local/massachusetts/articles/2011/12/31/mit_students_design_vending_machine_to_provide_bike_renters_with_helmets/?p1=Local_Links&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A vending machine that serves up safety: MIT class creates bike helmet dispenser&lt;/a&gt;&quot; for use in conduction with Boston's Hubway cycle hire scheme. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helmet-hub.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;first of these&lt;/a&gt; are now being deployed in Boston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastEditorUserId="1683" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T19:44:52.857" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T19:44:52.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7458" CreationDate="2012-01-01T06:33:29.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This mainly depends on how bright the lights are. A lot of small, lightweight lights simply aren't very bright and are about as ineffective as low-quality reflectors. Without seeing the lights or knowing some specifications about them, it's hard to gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be better off with high quality reflectors combined with bright, side-facing flashes attached to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T06:33:29.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-01T11:10:35.007" Score="2" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building up to do &lt;a href=&quot;http://g.co/maps/bcpvg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eastwood to Kariong&lt;/a&gt; and within the next two weekends I am going to ride &lt;a href=&quot;http://g.co/maps/ewsc6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eastwood to Berowra&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because there isn't much for me to do when I get there and I don't want to ride the whole way back I am thinking I will catch a train back to Eastwood. Considering the road travels alongside the train line it will convenient for me to jump on the train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to find out how much trouble this is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does taking a bike on the train in Sydney usually go without problems if it is done on the weekend? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any problems carrying a bike through the turnstyles and down onto the platform?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where is the best place for me to stand in the carriage once on a Sydney train with my bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any issues with the security guards?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2460" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-01-01T13:58:39.543" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T03:00:18.737" Title="Catching train on return trip in Sydney Australia" Tags="&lt;public-transportation&gt;&lt;australia&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2184" CreationDate="2012-01-01T18:37:56.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you know someone that works on automobiles ask if they have a tie rod remover.It looks like a heavy duty tuning fork with tapered ends.In the absence of one of these use two large screwdriver and wedge them between the crank arm and the bottom bracket,being careful not to damage the chainring.Tap the screwdrivers or the tie rod tool just hard enough to exert some pressure.If it doesn't pop off try to warm the crank arm with a heat gun or a hair dryer.The idea is to heat and expand the crank arm but not the shaft. As it warms tap the scewdrivers to see if it moves.You might want to apply some lubricant just be careful of heat and combustable fluids.Let it sit over night with the pressure applied and keep tapping the tool until it releases.You can also try to tap the arm with a ballpeen hammer while holding a second hammer 180 degrees opposite.The shock from the moving hammer distorts the crank arm hole while holding the second hammer stabilizes the shaft.This seems like it involves some complicated positioning and may be easier with two people until you get the hang of it &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T18:37:56.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2184" CreationDate="2012-01-01T19:29:56.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thought:  Go to a building supply place and get a bundle of tapered shims.  Probably the plastic ones would be best.  Insert four shims, in pairs, with opposing tapers, one pair on each side of the crank shaft.  Tap the shims in tighter and tighter until the arm pops off (or the bearing cup pops off, whichever occurs first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T19:29:56.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7477" CreationDate="2012-01-01T21:03:13.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go back to the shop where you purchased the bike and ask them to let you test ride a similar bike under similar conditions.This will eliminate the They all do that excuse.Even the factory makes mistakes in the  assembly or manufacturing process or something may have been damaged in shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T21:03:13.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7477" CreationDate="2012-01-01T23:48:46.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an explanation and answer &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/09/news/cyclocross/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-return-to-cross_101807&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Technical Q&amp;amp;A with Lennard Zinn: How to stop cyclocross brake chatter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very brief summary of Zinn's article:  Brake shudder is inherent to the design of a center-pull cantilever brake.  Reduced break pad size, lots of toe-in, and a tight headset can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3151" LastEditorUserId="3021" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T17:28:38.513" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T17:28:38.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7477" CreationDate="2012-01-02T05:22:04.547" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple solution from Specialized itself to your problem could be the installation of a Tricross Fork Brake Hanger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dR4YY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tricross Fork Brake Hanger&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a lengthy discussion at reddit/r/bicycling about this exact same problem with the same bike: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/fc1w7/carbon_forks_flex_under_braking_how_much_is/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carbon forks flex under braking. How much is 'normal'? How easily do they fracture?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastEditorUserId="3021" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T17:28:21.180" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T17:28:21.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7481" CreationDate="2012-01-02T14:45:41.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I do this style of trip fairly regularly, I'll answer, even though my experience is in New York, USA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking a bike on regional/commuter trains on the weekend is usually very fine, so long as it is not a holiday.  Which days the train operator considers to be holidays are posted on their website, though not always very easy to find.  In New York at least, the full PDF schedule has a few trains marked as off-limits to bikes, and a few marked as especially good (able to carry many bikes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turnstiles are not used for regional rail in New York, though they are for the subway (metro).  Where present, the booth attendant can open the handicapped gate for you and your bike--facilities for wheelchairs are generally a boon for cyclists, which leads me to the next point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Here, since there are no dedicated bike racks on board, we lay our bikes up in the spots designated for wheelchairs (assuming no wheelchair users are there, of course!).  Not every car has such spots, but every train does.  We look for the wheelchair symbol on the outside of the train to choose which door to enter.  Often there are folding &quot;jump seats&quot; in these areas which cyclists fold up to make room.  It is important (even technically required, though not enforced here) to use two small elastic &quot;bungee&quot; cords to secure your bike against against the wall (where there are sometimes small hooks or loops for the purpose).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No issues with transit employees regarding bicycles in my experience.  They've mostly been quite accommodating here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One additional note: some train operators require a &quot;bicycle permit.&quot;  My local example is the MTA Metro North system, which charges $5 for a lifetime permit.  You can pay after boarding the train, or buy it in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your mileage may vary quite a lot since we're on opposite sides of the earth, but maybe you or someone else will find this useful.  My experience is with the Long Island Rail Road, MTA Metro North, and New Jersey Transit systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2012-01-02T14:45:41.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6940" CreationDate="2012-01-02T19:56:12.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had an under-desk bike for about one month now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it continuously at a low resistance while working. So far I've done between 2-3 hours of cycling each day, though I hope to increase that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Magne Trainer, which is really easy to assemble but costs a bit more than the cheaper models. It's very quiet and I've had zero problems with it sliding around or anything. I did have to raise my desk, using wooden pieces from an old bookcase. I have not raised the desk much. In fact, I only raised it enough so that I could use the trainer the &quot;wrong&quot; way - my feet rest on the cuffs that are supposed to hold your feet, as opposed to the peddles. This makes my feet closer to the ground which means my desk doesn't have to be as high. I don't wear shoes while using it (I work from a home office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend it. I sit in my normal chair. I would not want to sit on a bicycle seat! I had a bit of vertigo the first day (I'm highly prone to motion sickness) but then it went away. My chair wobbles ever so slightly back and forth with the motion, and I imagine that this could be fixed with a better chair, but I really don't mind it. I can definitely concentrate on my work (possibly better than before) while cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't overweight to begin with but just had about 4 pounds that I felt I wanted to get rid of. I've lost 2 pounds but I'm also being very careful about caloric intake as well - as I tend to gain weight when I exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. Now that I have it, I wouldn't want any other machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3155" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T00:47:33.413" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T00:47:33.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7643" CreationDate="2012-01-02T20:55:06.063" Score="9" ViewCount="7672" Body="&lt;p&gt;How I can make my bicycle glow? As seen in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF95d-aNmCs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; Blackberry commercial (with screen capture image below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L9zQ0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T16:34:34.103" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T02:30:24.847" Title="How can I make a glow bike?" Tags="&lt;diy&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7489" CreationDate="2012-01-02T21:23:40.677" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint it with fluorescent paint and then illuminate with ultraviolet lights (and white LEDs serve this purpose fairly well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also glow strips/panels sold mostly to (oddly) computer hackers who like to light up the inside of their computers.  And probably a few other specialty markets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you'd have to rig up some sort of power supply.  Batteries can be concealed under the seat or in the seat tube, or on the person of the cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Odds are, to achieve this special effect for the commercial, the bike was painted with fluorescent paint and then illuminated for several minutes with separate UV lights.  The paint will continue to glow brightly for several minutes after being so &quot;charged&quot;, long enough to shoot the commercial, I'd guess.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-02T21:23:40.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7458" CreationDate="2012-01-03T02:05:17.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The net result is that you will have high visibility to the sides (left and right) of your bike. So laterally, these lights are quite effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add front and back lights. You'll be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T02:05:17.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7470" CreationDate="2012-01-03T03:08:44.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could look into dirt jump forks, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marzocchi.com/template/detailProdotti.asp?LN=UK&amp;amp;idIU=2464&amp;amp;idC=1561&amp;amp;IdFolder=113&amp;amp;uf=IU&amp;amp;IdOggetto=59714&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marzocchi Dirt Jump&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=rockshox%20argyle&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=10314830879467022504&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=Lm8GT4H0NsSTiQKchNkh&amp;amp;ved=0CDoQ8wIwAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RockShox Argyle&lt;/a&gt;.  There aren't too many options left for burly forks with 9mm quick release drop-outs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly though, Fox makes some nice forks.  Email their support and describe your use case (avoiding terms like 'hucking' or '6 foot drop to flat' unless applicable).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be more worried about an XC frame and wheelset failing than a modern suspension fork from a reputable brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3157" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T03:51:47.047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T03:51:47.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-03T03:47:38.770" Score="4" ViewCount="2931" Body="&lt;p&gt;When new my bike had all Shimano components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it was time to replace the chain, the LBS installed an SRAM chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was that a mistake on their part (if so, was it a bad mistake)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/6785/1097&quot;&gt;had a problem&lt;/a&gt; subsequently, and wonder whether the parts are quite compatible/interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; -- I thought I remembered someone's saying on this forum that chain and cogs are specially shaped, to help the chain jump from one cog to the next when you change gears; and that this shaping is somewhat manufacturer-specific: so mixing them makes it harder to shift gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T13:12:50.260" Title="SRAM chain with Shimano cassette and crankset?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2012-01-03T03:49:07.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few different answers for the first question, if you have a larger budget than I would say you should buy a nimbus unicycle, you should try to aim for around 20 inches, but a bit higher or lower is not that bad. The next option is what I would pick is the torker cx line, these are good sturdy cheap models, but without a doubt I would get a new seat for it immediately the one it comes with is condensed agony. I have the Kris Holmes fusion free ride saddle and that one is great for learning. You should probably buy two or more new saddle hand grabs, they go by pretty fast. Now your last option is if you want to buy one second hand, this fine, but keep in mind to research the manufacturer, and then see the retail prices, you can find some good deals but be sure to avoid companies like cyclepro and other stuff that gets bad reviews, if one unicycle by the manufacturer is bad than most of them are bad. But make sure to check. Don’t worry about the price on second hand places, most of the time people just get really mad at it and just want to get rid of it. Now, new if it’s too cheap retail (about under $50 is bad usually, but you can find good ones about this price even though it’s a good rule of thumb.). And remember; do not make your first unicycle your only one, EVER! They take a lot of wear and often don’t suit your needs. Now finally when you get to the buying stage, some good places to go are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.seriousjuggling.com/unicycles.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.seriousjuggling.com/unicycles.htm&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unicycle.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.unicycle.com/&lt;/a&gt; (the first is the lower price range and the second is the higher.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3158" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T03:49:07.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7494" CreationDate="2012-01-03T04:03:27.427" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run SRAM chains on my bike that has Shimano cogs.  It's by choice, as I prefer the SRAM &quot;Powerlink&quot; to the Shimano scheme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T04:03:27.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7494" CreationDate="2012-01-03T04:21:47.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general chains and cogs from Shimano and SRAM are interchangeable as long as they are designated for the proper number of cogs.  You wouldn't want to run a chain designated as a &quot;10-speed&quot; chain on an 8 gear cassette as the teeth on the cassette are likely to large for the links of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T04:21:47.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2012-01-03T04:38:43.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all you want is to be visible to others at night you can get one of these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/Lights/PRD~5021-941/nite-ize-bikelit-led-bicycle-light.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/Lights/PRD~5021-941/nite-ize-bikelit-led-bicycle-light.jsp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one hanging on the front cable of my Brompton M6R. Another alternative is to get a &quot;headlamp&quot;. These are LED lights that strap to your head and are very popular with hikers, campers, and cavers. They range in output from a few lumens to hundreds of lumens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T04:38:43.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-03T11:09:58.807" Score="-1" ViewCount="937" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the my colleagues is trying to trim down his weight through cycling. He is asking me what would be the best option for the purpose. I am no expert at this. &#xA;But I need to know what will be best choices for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is not just one question but many concerning one topic &lt;code&gt;weight-loss&lt;/code&gt;. Breaking down my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of ride would be best? &lt;sub&gt;Mountain Biking, Commuting may be..&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of routine would give the best result? &lt;sub&gt;2 Hrs Uphill, over 10 km may be..&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What time is most suitable to go for such ride?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What should the diet consists?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the re-hydration choices during/after the ride?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to control the fatigue level to control the stress level?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to make it a more enjoyable experience? &lt;sub&gt;I don't want to push him so much that he decides to run, on day 2&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of bike is the best choices?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How expensive should he go? &lt;sub&gt;Focus on quality products or get something to get the job done&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;P.S. The title sounds a little off &amp;amp; so are the tags. You guys are welcome to tweak it to make it more &lt;strong&gt;expressive&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-01-03T11:22:00.300" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T16:12:28.360" Title="What might be the best cycling choices for a person looking to lower their weight?" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-01-03T17:31:47.367" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7499" CreationDate="2012-01-03T12:23:36.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should pick whatever bike and style of riding you will enjoy enough to ride, and find practical to do frequently.  For some this may mean daily commuting, others may find technical mountain biking more to their liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying a heavy/clumsy bike is counter-productive, as you will not enjoy it, will not ride it as often/far, and will quickly tire of it.  However, you also don't need a super-light, super-fancy bike, unless you find that the style of riding you prefer is highly competitive.  Also, pick a bike that is easy to maintain and that isn't so expensive that you will be afraid to use it in less than ideal circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that for weight reduction you need to ride at least 3 (ideally 6) days a week and for at least 30 minutes per session.  One weekly 3-hour session is not as good as 3-4 half-hour sessions in terms of keeping the metabolism up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of nutrition, I highly recommend food.  Unless you're riding daily half-centuries you don't need to eat much more or significantly vary from a standard balanced diet.  If you're out for more than 2-3 hours you may want to carry some high-carb snacks, though, to help keep your blood sugar from crashing.  This isn't as much of a problem once your body becomes acclimated to longer rides, but starting out your liver isn't conditioned to supply that much sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hydration, water.  (Though on a hot day Gatorade or such is often welcome.)  A few drops of fresh lemon juice in the water helps keep it tasting fresh, and helps hide the plastic taste of new water bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T12:23:36.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7499" CreationDate="2012-01-03T16:12:28.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, your colleague needs to learn that weight reduction will come about through changing their diet. While exercise will help, it contributes to general health and blood pressure reduction far more than it does to weight loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a great time to point out that this site is not a medical resource, and your colleague should see a physician before undertaking any serious weight-loss program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of ride would be best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends on where the bike will be ridden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of routine would give the best result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What time is most suitable to go for such ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Daniel has pointed out, the best routine is one that will be followed. A good rule of thumb is a minimum of half an hour three times a week, but more would be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motivation is extremely important here. Is this person someone who functions better with a structured program? Then a series of scheduled rides may be best, putting aside certain days of the week as &amp;quot;workout days&amp;quot;. Is this someone who has trouble staying motivated for long-term goals? Commuting may be the answer, working the rides into their daily routine. Perhaps utility cycling would be best? (That's where you run errands, go grocery shopping, and so on, all on your bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exercising in the morning can be beneficial for some, but others find the evening to be best. Experiment until a sustainable routine is reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should the diet consists?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the re-hydration choices during/after the ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I prefer regular food and water. However, some riders - mostly roadies - prefer sports drinks and gels for their nutritional needs during the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good rule of thumb is to have protein before a ride and dairy or carbs after. But experimentation, again, will help here. This assumes that there are no specific medical complications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to control the fatigue level to control the stress level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to make it a more enjoyable experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eat properly before a ride, don't push yourself too hard at first. Working out should tire you but not exhaust you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of bike is the best choices?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How expensive should he go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first bike is always a bit of a guess: You don't know what kind of riding you'll be doing until you do some riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hybrids and hardtail mountain bikes are usually a safe bet. It's worth pointing out that road bikes and folding bikes often have weight limits and &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be unsuitable for riders that are extremely heavy. These bikes are extremely flexible and will handle a variety of terrains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd avoid carbon road bikes or mountain bikes with disc brakes or full suspension; both of these types almost certainly garbage when you get a budget version. However, an entry-level hybrid or even a comfort bike in this range will serve a rider well for some time, and can be pressed into service later on as a neighborhood bike or utility bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be aware that some people start riding but it doesn't stick. There's no shame in that, cycling isn't for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing you can do is to be supportive: Tell them about fun places to ride, offer to go along for short day rides. Maybe you could suggest they go on a group ride later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'd hold of on pushing a century or a week-long tour on them until it's clear that they enjoy cycling and won't be giving up the new hobby anytime soon. (More on that in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/4166/8&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T16:12:28.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="170" CreationDate="2012-01-03T18:47:54.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have stated, it depends on the season, but also on the type of bike you want. I have noticed that in Southern Ontario (Canada), the new models for mid-range and above bikes (say $800 CAD) can be discounted by September, if not sooner. Large bike manufacturers tend to announce their models for the next year by early fall, so retailers may be anxious to clear out old stock at that point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By year end, there will also be more consensus (sadly this information tends to be conflicting) on which models have quality or build problems (more frequent than you may expect). Speak to several riders you trust for feedback, but beware of of the 'zealous' who often try to impose their opinions ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other times to look for deals are during local bike shows. Retailers are often present with stock they want to sell off, and you may find a good deal. In this case, since you may only have a few hours at the show to make your purchase, it's very important to &lt;em&gt;do all of your research in advance&lt;/em&gt;. Find out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which retailers are attending, and what can you find out about them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What products will they be selling?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have a personal relationship with the retailer/purchased from them in the past? You may be able to negotiate a better price based on repeat business.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the retailer provide a &lt;strong&gt;full warrantee&lt;/strong&gt;. Also, are they located close enough for you to take advantage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What payment methods will be accepted?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T18:47:54.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-03T21:55:16.830" Score="0" ViewCount="653" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike's parts are in need of change and I wanted to do this in stages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently it has shimano parts based on a triple mountian bike front crank and derailleur and six speed rear cassette and derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First part of the plan is to update the crankset to a SRAM Apex double 50/34 cranks.  So will this crankset be able to use a six speed chain connected to the rear cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side I have confirmed with SRAM directly that their road gear is 100 % compatible with their mountian bike gear so my plan is to mix and match the Apex front end with X5 rear end equipement but I can only do this in stages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2403" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T23:04:08.067" Title="Is SRAM Apex crankset compatible with 6 speed chain and rear cassette" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7504" CreationDate="2012-01-03T23:04:08.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not as the Apex crank is designed for 10 speeds, a 6 speed chain will be too wide to fit onto the smaller chainring without jamming on the larger chainring. You would be OK using a 9 speed chain as they are pretty similar to 10 speed chaing in width. So sorry, you will need to up the number of speed front and back at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3151" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T23:04:08.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2012-01-04T01:20:09.040" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it only happens when you stand I would say it is definitely a combination of a worn chain &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; worn chainring, and nothing to do with shifters or derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a chain wears, it 'stretches', meaning the distance between the pins in the chain grows. This is a result of the side plates wearing into the pin. Once the chain starts to 'stretch', it starts to wear on the teeth of the chainring. If you look at it close you will likely notice that the valley's between the teeth on the chainring are not uniform, and the the tips of teeth are wearing down, compared to a new chain ring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you apply torque to the crank, each tooth of the chainring pushes against the roller on the pins of the chain. On a bike with a rear derailleur, there is a spring which keeps tension on the chain. As the chainring teeth wear out, and you apply a certain level of torque on the cranks, it becomes possible to exceed the tension applied by the derailleur and the chain will simply 'roll' up and over the teeth on the chainring, effectively skipping a tooth. This usually happens very suddenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only right solution is to buy a new chain &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; new chainring (or chainrings). Putting a new chain on a worn chainring or a worn chain on a new chainring will only accelerate the wear on the new item. The bicycle shop should have sold you both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3164" LastEditorUserId="3164" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T01:25:19.853" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T01:25:19.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7508" CreationDate="2012-01-04T05:35:09.187" Score="3" ViewCount="6240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally have much love for my LBS, but I've moved recently and am a little unsure about this new one due to the fees he is asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a flip flop hub with a fixed gear (18 tooth) cog on one side, and a freewheel single speed cog on the other side. I need the fixed gear cog replaced. As I understand all you need to take this off is a special tool every bike shop would have. I assume the whole replacement process would take all of 5 minutes - quicker (like 2 min) for an experienced mechanic -- is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop wants $50 labour to do this. Seems a little steep, I think! Am I right to think that this rate is unreasonably high?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3167" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-20T09:16:10.527" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T07:20:25.670" Title="Is my local bike shop asking to much money to change a rear cog?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;lbs&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7507" CreationDate="2012-01-04T06:23:48.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ah the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answered my own Q:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes about a minute. Yay!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Watch at 2:13: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BpyZ0BQ8tE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Replace Fixed Cog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt; (broken link)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, try&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Cx0k_5Sco8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How To Change A Track Bike Or Fixie Sprocket &lt;/a&gt; (splined).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnskgFw6hPc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FIXIE COG INSTALL #3&lt;/a&gt; (threaded)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For DIY: need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chain_whip_(bicycle_tool)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chainwhip&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_tools#Drivetrain_and_bottom_bracket_tools&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lockring wrench / lockring spanner&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...or a multi-tool with chainwhip &amp;amp; lockring wrench!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3167" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T07:20:25.670" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T07:20:25.670" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7511" CreationDate="2012-01-04T06:42:26.987" Score="6" ViewCount="6770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a medium sized Trek Mountain Track/Antelope with a seven speed freewheel. When I tighten the rear quick release, I have to carefully back off on the tightness so that the wheel will actually turn. This is not a brakes issue, I'm dropping the wheel in while the bike is upside down, and I can spin it freely when the quick release is loose. I don't believe its has to do with lateral rim alignment, because that would hit a brake pad in one or a few distinct areas. I'm getting even friction when the q/r is too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first guess is that I have badly adjusted cones on the axle, and I'm guessing this because I don't know how else the dropouts would apply so much friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look to next? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I adjusted the left hand cone looser and I was able to get it adjusted to take a normal amount of pressure on the q/r and it still rotates well. The cone races are kinda gravelly by the feel, I think I'll definitely keep this a light duty bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastEditorUserId="1944" LastEditDate="2012-01-07T05:26:27.223" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T04:16:20.057" Title="Tightening rear quick release stops rear wheel" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;7-speed&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7509" CreationDate="2012-01-04T11:11:20.003" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hub is adjusted too tight, or there is damage to the bearing track which cause higher than normal friction when the bearings are compressed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're on the right track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T11:11:20.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-04T12:18:38.073" Score="6" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is not proper form, but I figure it would be too interesting to folks here to pass up.  Helen Skelton is planning an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-16345232&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;attempt to cycle to the South Pole&lt;/a&gt; on a slightly odd looking all-terrain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It rides on what are basically golf cart tires, has a suspension fork, 21-speed derailleur gearing, and rear disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm personally a hair skeptical of the tubeless tires and the rear derailer that seems to clear the &quot;ground&quot; by only a few inches.  But the folks doing this have a lot of experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is what they're planning even possible? What will be their biggest problems? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T18:30:07.783" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T18:30:07.783" Title="Is it possible to cycle to the South Pole?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2012-01-04T18:49:29.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3871" CreationDate="2012-01-04T15:09:12.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue with TWO sets of M-424 pedals.  The right one came clean off within 1 km of installation.  In my case, the pedal looked in tact, but it appeared that the bolt was threaded the wrong way on the right side.  The pedals WERE properly installed by my LBS.  I went back to the LBS and they were stumped.  I wrote a letter to Shimano and got absolutely no response.  This is unacceptable and frankly dangerous.  No more Shimano for me, I ended up with some Crank Bros and couldn't be happier.  The &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3173" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T15:09:12.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2012-01-04T15:28:41.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a great set of coaster wheels online at espresso wheels dot com. They sell ready made deep V coaster wheels in four colours: white, matt black, polished silver and turquoise for £139. They also do custom wheel builds, sell the rims and hubs separately and ship anywhere in the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3174" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T15:28:41.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7516" CreationDate="2012-01-04T16:45:35.317" Score="8" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble finding up-to-date information on the growth of cycling in the US and across the globe. How rapidly is the cycling industry growing? In what country is cycling growing fastest? Is the industry growing in lock-step with new cyclists or are established cyclists just purchasing more cycling goods? Where are the most new cyclists hopping on bicycles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many questions, I know, and don't expect them all answered. More broadly: Where can I find, or can anyone provide, statistics that demonstrate the trajectory of bike use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1835" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2018-04-15T19:37:11.230" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T19:37:11.230" Title="Where can I find statistics on the growth of US &amp; worldwide bicycle use and business?" Tags="&lt;statistics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7515" CreationDate="2012-01-04T17:56:52.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's some US-specific stuff collected by the LAB here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeleague.org/media/facts/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeleague.org/media/facts/&lt;/a&gt; &amp;mdash; click through and you'll find spreadsheets, etc.  Looks like they mostly have 2000&amp;ndash;2009 data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty typical for that kind of data that 2009 will be the latest year available. With the type of agencies and data involved, it can easily take a year or two to compile into a useful report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking at a recent report for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sonoma-county.org/scta_search/pdf/Agenda_Packets/2011/scta_20111114.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;data in my local area (long pdf, start at page 85)&lt;/a&gt; and they reference the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikepeddocumentation.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;National Bike and Pedestrian Documentation Project&lt;/a&gt; as the new (2009 and later) standard used for counting bicycle usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking through their documents, they mention:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.railstotrails.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rails-To-Trails Conservancy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ite.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Institute of Transportation Engineers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://nhts.ornl.gov/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;National Household Travel Survey&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The NHTS seems most promising, but they don't have a ready-made report for what you want and their data samples are roughly every decade, not annual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also promising: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.census.gov/hhes/commuting/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;US Census Commuting Data&lt;/a&gt;, but it looks like you'll have to dig down into the more raw data to get what you want, since the easy to find report only has the latest census and puts bicycling in an &quot;other&quot; bin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T21:50:30.340" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T21:50:30.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7515" CreationDate="2012-01-04T19:37:28.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I expect that manufacturers would want and have this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These articles (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailymarkets.com/stock/2010/06/07/shimano-inc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) suggest to me that you can tell things about the world-wide bike market by looking at Shimano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T06:38:24.330" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T06:38:24.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7433" CreationDate="2012-01-04T20:55:30.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried it. I moved the cleat to the furthest rear position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems ok for seated pedalling. However, when standing up, it just seems wrong and I can't get any power out of it. Basically, the balance on the bike just isn't working for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T20:55:30.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="368" CreationDate="2012-01-04T22:32:19.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride large group rides in France. Basic tools are great, but I need to use my First Aid kit more than my bike repair kit. A small kit should be the minimum.  Riding partner took a bad ride over the handle bars.  He broke his shoulder.  One arm sling cloth, an Ace bandage, geo coordinates from my Garmin, and a simple phone call to my wife did the trick.  She was able to come to within 100 meters of the fall to pick him up.  Each of those items made it possible for a quick extraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fossdog&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3177" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T22:32:19.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7526" CreationDate="2012-01-05T05:24:21.377" Score="14" ViewCount="6185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a reasonably new rider so excuse my ignorance, but I'm thinking of taking my commuter bike for a 70km ride some time in the near future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently been on several 30km rides without issue and recently had my bike serviced and adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of the ride will be in light traffic and there is a shoulder where cyclists regularly ride, so the main concern is not safety. I also consider myself fit enough so fitness should also not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are the negative aspects of doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2460" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-01-05T17:28:01.140" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T15:43:20.697" Title="Is it a bad idea to take a commuter bike for a 50 - 100km ride?" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7521" CreationDate="2012-01-05T09:53:21.810" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike will most probably be fine - there's nothing inherently different to riding 50-100k as opposed to 30k, assuming all the components are in good condition (which since you've had it serviced, should be true). Obviously check the brakes, oil the chain, and check the tyres (nothing lodged in them, pumped up to the right pressure) before heading out. Make sure you have adequate puncture repair equipment - spare inner tubes (2 should be ok), pump, levers, and a patch kit just in case. If you're riding 100k for the first time make sure you take enough food &amp;amp; drink or cash to get some!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real disadvantage to using commuter bikes for this kind of ride is that they are (generally) heavy and slow when compared with a dedicated road (racing) bike, but unless you're trying to ride in a group at specified speeds this isn't really much of an issue - you just won't cover as many miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T09:53:21.810" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7521" CreationDate="2012-01-05T11:47:53.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the bike and you are properly prepared for the trip you should be fine.People have been riding for 100km rides long before they made lightweight, multigear,Hi-Tech bikes.The only difference beteen doing it on a commuter is it might take you longer,you might tire more easily,and you might not be as comfortable as you would on a performance road bike.If your bike fits you well and you are comfortable with your fitness level just take your time and enjoy the trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T11:47:53.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7521" CreationDate="2012-01-05T12:34:51.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can recall, a few decades past, some riders who did a week-long, 80-mile-per-day ride on Huffys.  And they were self-contained (carrying all their own baggage in panniers).  (The Huffy is the prototypical department-store bike in the US, and these bikes were not known for high quality or light weight.)  The Huffy riders appeared to survive, probably better than some with fancy bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as the bike is comfortable for you (you don't experience significant hand/shoulder/back problems after an hour or so on the bike) and so long as the seat doesn't wear too much on you rear and thighs, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it sounds like you'll be riding in a group, you don't need much in the way of emergency supplies -- maybe a spare inner tube, a little extra cash, and, if possible, a cellphone.  A few snacks (candy or fruit) is also a good idea.  And of course, at least one bottle of water.  (In fact, you don't need much more than that if riding solo, so long as you won't be out in some barren wasteland.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do make sure your tires are inflated to near their maximum pressure before you start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-01-05T17:34:41.223" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T17:34:41.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7521" CreationDate="2012-01-05T14:14:23.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a couple 70 kilometer rides on my hybrid (what you might call a commuter) bike.  It's mostly about being in good enough shape and not about the bike. In the rides I was on, people rode all kinds of bikes from carbon road bikes, to mountain bikes, to recumbents, to long tails, to fixies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like others have said, make sure you bring enough food and a few simple tools to fix your bike if something should go wrong, also, ensure everything is in good condition before you leave. This is where a commuter bike can actually be an advantage. I wasn't afraid to pack a few extra tools because I had a rack, and put a pannier on there. I had the pleasure of helping out a few less prepared people who thought they could do a 70 K ride without anything but a bike and a water bottle (ride organizers had food/rest stops at a couple spots along the way, so they didn't need to carry food).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T00:22:10.613" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:22:10.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7521" CreationDate="2012-01-05T16:57:27.057" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reliability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;True commuter bikes are built for day-in and day-out reliability. As far as breaking down, you have little to worry about as a commuter bike is designed to take massive amounts of abuse and neglect and still function. While you could have a part failure like any other bike, these are uncommon and the most frequent (the flat tire) is easily fixed. On a group ride, someone will likely have a repair kit in their bag, or if you are more proactive you can carry one yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comfort&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While commuter bikes are designed with comfort in mind, they do not have &lt;em&gt;long distance&lt;/em&gt; comfort in mind. In particular, a commuter/comfort bike with a wider saddle may prove to cause more chafing on a long ride like this than a narrower and seemingly less comfortable road saddle. Also, depending on your handlebar setup, there may only be one legitimate hand position - which means your body is, by default, forced into one position for the ride. In both cases if after your 30km ride you did not have issues, than whatever issues arise on this longer ride will more than likely be tolerable. While it may not be ideal, you are not going to get any serious injuries due to the bike setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed (energy expenditure)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Compared to road bikes, commuter bikes can be slow and heavy. You will spend more energy going the same distance, but if you have the fitness and patience to do so then it's a non-issue, unless you are riding in a group with fit riders on faster bikes where you may hold the group back. Additionally in a strong wind you will have a harder time in an upright position then on a road bike with drop bars, where you can tuck forward into the wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are better bikes built for longer distance traveling, there is no reason a fit person couldn't finish a 50-100k bike ride on a commuter. Since you have completed 30k I don't think 50k will pose a major issue. If you step up the distance incrementally you will know where your physical limit is. Enjoy your ride!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-01-05T17:46:46.807" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T17:46:46.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7528" CreationDate="2012-01-05T18:39:20.047" Score="1" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, sorry for being unable to phrase my question more precisely. Currently, I ride a 26&quot; hardtail mountain/trail bike to and from work/university (around 7km each way). Surely, this is not the ideal bike, but I do love the ruggedness (occasionally jumping a flight of stairs etc.) and maneuverability. So I‘m not going to replace it entirely, but rather extend my fleet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I’m considering doing a bike tour through Europe once I finish my degree (another two years until thats the case). In the meantime I’d naturally like to train, i.e. riding more than 50km at once, which isn’t nice on a trail bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I plan on building it myself, if that makes a difference?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here are my concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I just buy a touring bike now? Seems they are too heavy for what I need now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I buy a fixie? I’m surely not interested in being fashionable, but I read here that it helps develop a smoother pedaling style; that can’t be bad?!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I get &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/245#245&quot;&gt;clipless pedals&lt;/a&gt;? There are some which you can still use with normal shoes, is there a major drawback?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But mainly, what type of bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Based on the answers so far (thanks guys) I noticed that I wasn’t really clear. I don’t want to use this bike for touring, I want to get around town quickly and do a longer day tour with it, no need for carrying stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3182" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T13:54:03.373" Title="What type of bike is appropiate for my situation?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2012-01-05T19:29:38.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were me I would buy a comfortable steel road bike with fenders and racks. This will give you a bike you can comfortable go distances on as well as practicality for the commute. You aren't racing so you don't really need an extremely expensive, high end road bike and a steel frame will be comfortable and durable assuming you store it properly. When you feel the need to romp around you can take your MTB out. If the road bikes are out of your price range then consider a similar setup with a single speed/fixed gear. Fixed gear bikes will make you pedal smoother but a disciplined rider of any bike can get the same benefits using cadence drills without the added danger of getting bucked by pedals moving faster than you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T19:29:38.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7540" CreationDate="2012-01-05T21:36:43.463" Score="3" ViewCount="32521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm switching from a 1999 Rock Hopper mountain bike to a new Jamis Aurora road bike. I want to move my cheapy security skewers over to the new bike, but they look a bit different from the skewers the new bike came with. Are all skewers compatible with all bikes, or are there different types?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="462" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T21:53:31.133" Title="Are all skewers compatible with all bikes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;security&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2012-01-05T23:07:06.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you intend to do loaded touring, I'd suggest you stay away from a fixie unless you're a real gorilla.  When you hit a long climb into your stop after 5-6 hours on the road it's &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; nice to be able to just drop down a couple of gears rather that having to struggle.  (Not that I haven't seen a few gorillas touring on fixies -- though none loaded that I've ever noticed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, your current bike, if it can be rigged to carry the required baggage, may not be a bad choice for touring, if you just install smoother tires and carry a higher pressure -- it all depends on what's comfortable for you to ride a long distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedals are nice for touring, as they eliminate the need to exert effort to keep your feet on the pedals, and this, in turn, can increase foot comfort after several hours in the saddle.  Several styles take shoes that are &quot;walkable&quot; (though I wouldn't recommend a 20 mile hike in any of them).  At the very least you should have toe clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T23:07:06.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7529" CreationDate="2012-01-05T23:12:27.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They should be of a compatible width but its unlikely that they'll be the same length though.  Most road hubs have different widths to MTB's.  Fortunately for you, most road hubs are narrower and as long as there's enough thread on your skewer you'll probably be fine and should be able to just cut a bit off the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3184" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T23:12:27.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7509" CreationDate="2012-01-05T23:16:39.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd put my money on a broken axle. If the cones were too tight then you'd get the friction even when the q/r was done up loosely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is this, then replacing the axle isn't the hardest job in the world, just a bit time consuming if you've never done it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3184" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T23:16:39.230" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7507" CreationDate="2012-01-05T23:25:39.903" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a flip flop hub myself and haven't got any of those specialised tools, all you need is a screwdriver and a hammer.  The lock ring is nothing more than nut that holds on the gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're replacing the cog, you might find that your chain might be worn too and might skip around on the new cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3184" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T23:25:39.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7470" CreationDate="2012-01-05T23:30:38.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fox forks are much better now they've beefed up the skewer to something similar to rockshox's maxle and I'd say that you'd benefit from having something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rockshox's pike comes with a 20mm maxle and stiffens the forks up no end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what hubs you're running but plenty of hubs now have conversion kits to go from QR to a maxle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3184" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T23:30:38.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7537" CreationDate="2012-01-05T23:59:00.617" Score="3" ViewCount="8980" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thru axle is a hollow axle that gets clamped by each fork leg and through the hub. Like what a motorcycle has. Much stiffer and stronger design then the typical QR dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sons newer downhill mountain bike has a thru axle on his front wheel/fork. I've never had a bicycle with an axle like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any different sort of maintenance I should be doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit ---------&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are on some Marzocchi 55s, probably around 2008/2009 model year:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jZ8cC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Marzocchi 55s thru axle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T02:44:01.153" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T22:36:28.130" Title="What maintenance is required for a thru axle?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7481" CreationDate="2012-01-06T03:00:18.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in Brisbane. Weekends should be fine, the only restricted time is on peak hour on weekdays (7-9 am and 5-7 pm here).&#xA;I'd say the place to be with bike is at the back where you don't have to hold it so you can sleep. Second best is close to the doors because you get more empty space.&#xA;You won't find issue with guards as bikes are allowed on board and in stations. But you can't ride on the bike in the stations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T03:00:18.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7535" CreationDate="2012-01-06T09:37:35.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep it lightly greased where it comes into contact with the hub bearing races and dropouts. This helps get it in and stops it seizing against the dropouts (the axle and dropouts are alu).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T09:37:35.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7489" CreationDate="2012-01-06T13:29:58.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this wont be as consistent as the image above, wrapping your bike with electroluminescent wire will be 10x cheaper and faster, plus last longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazone sells it pretty cheap &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_10?url=search-alias=aps&amp;amp;field-keywords=electroluminescent%20wire&amp;amp;x=0&amp;amp;y=0&amp;amp;sprefix=electrolum&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used it on bikes, Halloween costumes, kid toys, etc. Its super flexible, durable and safe. 9ft runs on 2 AA batteries. Tape or zip tie it on as needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T13:29:58.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7529" CreationDate="2012-01-06T14:47:03.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the answer is no. Not all skewers are compatible with all quick release wheels. There are different diameters and widths of skewers. Notably, many downhill bikes have beefier skewers that are built with a much larger diameter to be more durable. Bikes with wider and narrower axles will have less standard skewers too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, it is likely that the skewers will be compatible. Even if the skewer isn't quite long enough to have threads protruding from the nut, it will still be okay if the difference is less than 2mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-884.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;forum post&lt;/a&gt; for more info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;True, the standard nowadays is 100mm up front and 130mm in the rear, BUT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you start talking about different types of bikes, you get into different width hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tandems have a standard rear spacing of 140 or 145mm, some downhill/freeride bikes have a whopping 150mm rear spacing and 110mm front hub spacing and monstrous 20mm through bolt skewers, older bikes with French or Italian standards can have wacky sizes from 91mm 96mm, the list goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But you are correct in saying the &quot;standard&quot; size for skewers is 100mm up front and 130mm in the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T14:47:03.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2012-01-06T16:00:19.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, simply changing the tires on your current bike would probably be the most budget friendly solution.  Putting a slick or inverted tread tire on your mountain bike should improve the rolling resistance without breaking the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, have you thought about a cyclo-cross bike as a second bike?  That'd give you a nice mix of features present in road (lighter frame), touring (wider tires, cantilever breaks) and mountain bikes (overall &quot;beefy&quot; build, lower gearing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can improve your pedal stroke without buying a special bike.  If you want a fixie because they're trendy, consider buying a used one from a recovering hipster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend the clipless pedals.  If you are concerned about wearing &quot;normal&quot; shoes, you should check out the commuter style SPD compatible shoes as many of these can be comfortably worn while off the bike (and won't make you walk like a penguin)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3021" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T16:00:19.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6757" CreationDate="2012-01-06T20:10:33.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you email photos to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://nbhaa.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;National Bicycle History Archive of America&lt;/a&gt; (oldbike@aol.com) and ask nicely, they may be able to identify the vintage of your bike, provide original pricing and possibly even a current appraisal.  They have a large collection of of old catalogs and claim to have identified over 1 million bicycles since 1977.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before sending them a note, please read their &lt;a href=&quot;http://nbhaa.com/faqs.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frequently Asked Questions&lt;/a&gt; to improve the chances they'll be able and &lt;em&gt;willing&lt;/em&gt; to identify your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do get a positive ID, please update your question to let us know what it is.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3021" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T20:10:33.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7550" CreationDate="2012-01-07T00:31:26.713" Score="7" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commute is about 25km/day.  I have a cheapish hybrid bike with Shimano gears, v-brakes and SPD pedals.  I carry a small hand pump and spare tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need in a bike tool/ multitool or other spares?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="99" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-07T22:21:23.303" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T22:21:23.303" Title="What tools are most important on an all-in-one bike tool for a commuter?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;multi-tool&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7545" CreationDate="2012-01-07T01:00:54.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire levers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appropriate wrenches to tighten loose bolts, adjust brakes, etc. Probably means a few sizes of &lt;strong&gt;Allen (hex) wrench.&lt;/strong&gt; Metric. Smallest bolts are probably on brakes and biggest under saddle, but varies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest, like a chain tool, are a lot less likely to be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T01:00:54.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7545" CreationDate="2012-01-07T02:29:58.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The jobs will dictate the need of tools. Look at the hardware you have, and what needs to be turned to perform common repairs and adjustments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat tires (remove and reattach wheels and brakes), adjust pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gear adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allen Wrenches for the size bolts you have. &#xA;Tire Levers.&#xA;Potentially a small screwdriver bit, depending on the hard ware on your bike. &#xA;Lugs for wheels if you don't have quick releases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is similar to asking what is necessary to cook without knowing what the dish is. Sometimes you need an oven, sometimes a grill, sometimes just a mixing bowl. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T02:29:58.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7545" CreationDate="2012-01-07T02:47:28.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A multitool basically only needs to include the Allen wrenches that fit your bike, plus screwdrivers to fit screws on the bike.  It doesn't hurt if the tool purports to include a tire lever, but I wouldn't rely on one in a multitool to be any good -- you should carry regular levers or a Quick Stick if you intend to be prepared to repair a tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T02:47:28.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7489" CreationDate="2012-01-07T04:44:45.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a flax fiber bike that isn't painted, insert a florescent light into the tubing. Then paint your bike with phosphorescent paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3188" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T04:44:45.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2012-01-07T07:20:54.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've commuted on 26&quot; MTBs and I made one a bit hybrid style by not chopping the fork tube down and had a much easier time on it. My other MTB I didn't get an extended stem for and I found it less comfortable. Both bikes I outfitted with full sized fenders, rear racks and handle bar bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with getting to know SPD pedals and shop around for a second bike. SPD pedals take some getting used to, and if your ergonomics are not tuned in, you might be exposing yourself to lower back strain and visiting a chiropractor. You don't want a tour cut in half for back problems...or clipless might just not suit your style. (Clipless pedals sell quickly if you decide you don't like them.) Also consider buying a small pocket metronome if you don't already know what 90rpm feels like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building a bike up or rebuilding a used one is great, it will make you very familiar with how to fix it and tune its ergonomics as you go extend your riding range. I second the recommendation for a cyclocross style bike if you  don't like the idea of a touring bike. Keep the ultimate tour route in mind: doing lots of hills? Get a gearing suited for hills. Credit card touring and not carrying much? Then you might not want to go for a bike with fork brazeons. If you're going to be carrying full panniers on the trip, consider sturdy wheels. There's no reason you couldn't tour on a 26&quot; cromoly MTB, so long as you've adjusted the ergonomics to suit long rides. 26&quot; wheels are often sturdier than 700c wheels, on a properly built wheel, shorter spokes break less often. (BTW, I don't want to get into a flame over wheels, there are many factors I'm omitting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T07:20:54.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7554" CreationDate="2012-01-07T12:04:42.143" Score="4" ViewCount="10089" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I pull out a carbon seatpost on a carbon frame?&#xA;It seems so hard for me...&#xA;Do I need a special tool, or just ask help from a local bike shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;done with the seatpost.&#xA;I made the frame and fork reversed hold the bottom bracket with my tripod, install a saddle on it and gave a big bang on the saddle about 20 times and done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T23:22:22.667" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T11:01:33.237" Title="How to pull a carbon seatpost out of a carbon frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7553" CreationDate="2012-01-07T14:18:04.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to push the seat down slightly.The carbon weave can act the way those finger cuff toys we had as children did (the more you pull the tighter they get).By pushing down you release the grabbing action.Make sure you use something similar to Park Tool Carbon/Alloy Assembly Lube before you reassemble it,check with your local bike shop for their reccomendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T14:18:04.493" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7556" CreationDate="2012-01-07T18:42:42.630" Score="3" ViewCount="25711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano Sora derailleur on the bike I just bought with a triple chainring in the front. Right up by the shifters there is a sort of barrel adjuster on the cable. It doesn't seem to do anything when twiddled. When I was fiddling with the adjustment at the other end, and disconnected the whole cable by accident, this adjuster was separated from the cable covers on each side. I couldn't figure out at all how it was supposed to work. There didn't seem to be any threads, or screw mechanism to make it grow or shrink when adjusted. Yet it clearly does something. Can anyone explain what, and how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3191" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T11:40:46.720" Title="How do the adjustment barrels on a gear cable work?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7555" CreationDate="2012-01-07T20:16:43.223" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your basic barrel adjuster is a tube with a thread on the outside of one end.  The threaded end fits into a female threaded piece, either the shifter itself or another tube.  (If you have this second type, where the female end is another tube, it's necessary to hold that second tube stationary while turning the first tube.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable passes through the tube, and the cable housing &quot;bumps into&quot; the end of the adjuster barrel (which generally has a sort of &quot;cup&quot; sized to accept the housing and keep it centered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adjuster works this way:  As you UNSCREW the adjuster, it pushes the cable housing farther out, effectively tightening the cable.  The cable is held in tension by the spring in the derailer, so this adjustment moves the position of the far end of the cable relative to the derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Note that some adjusters have a thin &quot;jam nut&quot; on the threaded portion of the barrel, and this is tightened against the female piece to keep the adjuster from turning.  It's often necessary to unscrew this jam nut slightly before working the adjuster.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that once you've unscrewed the adjuster beyond the end of the threads it won't tighten the cable anymore, but will just spin.  If this occurs (before satisfactory adjustment is achieved) it's necessary to screw the adjuster all the way in, loosen the cable clamp at the derailer, and pull it a hair tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if some jackleg in the past decided to &quot;tighten things&quot; with a pair of pliers they may have broken off the threaded portion inside the female portion, rendering the adjuster completely ineffective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-01-07T21:40:51.033" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T21:40:51.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7557" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-01-07T22:27:41.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A multi-tool is a portable hand tool that includes multiple individual functions. Multi-tools are designed for different activities including golf, fishing, DIY, camping, hunting and cycling. A popular example of a multi-tool is the Swiss Army Knife, manufactured by Victorinox or Wenger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-07T23:03:34.053" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T23:03:34.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7558" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-01-07T22:27:41.140" Score="0" Body="A multi-tool is a portable hand tool that includes multiple individual functions. " OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-07T23:03:36.860" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T23:03:36.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7579" CreationDate="2012-01-07T22:35:16.337" Score="-1" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1678/what-are-the-reasons-for-and-against-wearing-a-bicycle-helmet&quot;&gt;What are the reasons for and against wearing a bicycle helmet?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know any research indicating whether using a conventional bicycle saves lives? I read somewhere that helmet increases head injury incidence somewhat due to increasing head diameter. Also there was an argument against using a helmet due to them causing more rotational neck injuries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1774" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T18:54:24.173" Title="Does bicycle helmet use lead to lives saved?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2012-01-10T21:39:22.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7555" CreationDate="2012-01-07T22:41:51.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to post some photos of the adjuster along with the brand and model of the shifters.If you have an adjuster at the deraileur end of the cable it is possible there is no adjuster at the shifter end.The piece at the end of the cable may just position the cable in the shifter.There is also an adjuster that has small steps or knotches molded in to the shortened barrel. With each 1/4 turn it slides out the cable housing a small amount,but after a complete turn it returns to the original position.It appears to work as a fine adjustment similar to the trim control on more expensive shifters &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T22:41:51.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5346" CreationDate="2012-01-08T01:29:07.893" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as sealing a freewheel, I've always used a rubber &quot;o&quot; ring fitted to the outter recess of the freewheel. It keeps dirt from collecting in the groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3194" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T01:29:07.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7559" CreationDate="2012-01-08T04:18:10.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any recent studies, but the League of American Bicyclists (formerly League of American Wheelmen) has done some studies in the past that were reasonably convincing that helmets prevent serious head injuries and save lives overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, interestingly, when they crunched the numbers they decided that the health effects of riding are positive (life-lengthening) even if you don't wear a helmet, so they have (at least in the past) not advocated for mandatory helmet laws.  Better to not wear a helmet and cycle than to use the helmet as an excuse to not cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I haven't looked at any of this in 15-20 years -- since last I was involved Boy Scout cycling stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Incidentally, as to whether helmets save lives, when I was helping with Scouts there were two incidents where Scouts were thrown from their bikes and landed on their heads, in both cases with enough force to crack the helmet.  There is no doubt that, without the helmets (that ARE mandatory for Scouting events) the boys would have been seriously injured rather than (as they were) just scratched up.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[It should also be noted that the most injury accidents with bicycles are between a bike and some stationary object, or simply falls.  Motor vehicle collisions are a relatively small fraction.  Neither of the accidents I mentioned above involved a motor vehicle, and one was on a bike path.  Helmets are needed even when &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; riding in traffic.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T14:41:07.833" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T14:41:07.833" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-08T04:48:43.080" Score="3" ViewCount="2128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired a Surly Steamroller (fixed gear bike). I want to ride is as a single speed for everyday use. I changed out the rear wheel and got one with a flip-flop hub. I'd also like to add a rear brake but I'm not sure what will work. The Surly website states that standard reach post mount calipers are compatible but that's for the current model. My bike is a number of years old. The other problem is that there are no stops for housing. Any suggestions for my best option(s)? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3195" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T23:39:20.000" Title="What rear brake should I get for a Surly Steamroller?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7563" CreationDate="2012-01-08T05:01:21.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The steamroller will work (for the last 5 years at least) with a standard reach rear brake. Any model will do. As for housing stops, you must use a full length housing, and zipp tie it to the top tube of the frame, or have someone add riveted stops. Full length housing is easier, cheaper, and doesn't void your warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T05:01:21.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2913" CreationDate="2012-01-08T07:49:49.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/news/43047-more-eurobike-goodness-gilles-berthoud-deda-reynolds-hope-cateye-more&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Reynolds is also rolling out to its customers who are typically custom&#xA;  framebuilders without access to sophisticated computer modelling tools&#xA;  a programme called eReynolds FEA (Finite Element Analysis) which will&#xA;  enable them to 'build' their frames in virtual form to test the&#xA;  feasibility of tubing and joining options before expensively&#xA;  committing to physical prototypes. Developed in conjunction with&#xA;  Birmingham University, Murphy says &quot;it's a way of helping builders&#xA;  offer competitive frames especially now that cyclists are developing a&#xA;  whole new appreciation of the upsides of Reynolds metals.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T07:49:49.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2913" CreationDate="2012-01-08T10:41:08.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related questions about FEM, idea from ChrisW's answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2988/fem-how-to-design-weight-distribution-in-bike-prototypes&quot;&gt;FEM: How to Design weight-distribution in bike prototypes?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2989/fem-how-to-design-anti-vibrational-bike-frame&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2989/fem-how-to-design-anti-vibrational-bike-frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T10:41:08.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4317" CreationDate="2012-01-08T11:04:03.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Shout!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for those who cannot whistle loudly, particularly. Not bad idea to get some extra adrenaline in this kind of situation, it is your life. So what if you did get dead, you can at least get some extra adrenaline in the situation. Have fuN!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T11:04:03.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7589" CreationDate="2012-01-08T11:22:09.803" Score="4" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wcbVI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is now stuck very hard because I used apparently too much force to tighten it, how would you take that out? The bolt is in soft aluminium frame so it can be quite tricky thing to do. Some bolt removal tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3449/what-is-the-technical-name-for-this-nut-bolt-thing-with-inner-hubs&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; with the chain-tug -suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T12:03:42.067" Title="How to remove broken bolt in Chain Tug?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;chain-tug&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7575" CreationDate="2012-01-08T12:40:19.033" Score="6" ViewCount="110824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very old bike. It used to work perfectly, but just recently it happened that when I pedal the rear wheel is not turning. Just for notice I pedal in the correct direction, brakes are not stopping the wheel... The chain is properly mounted, the casette or freehub (I don't really know how it is called, that thing on which the chain resides on the back wheel) is spinning while I pedal, but the wheel is not. So I guess the problem is somewhere in the back wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought that something is completely broken, but sometimes the wheel is turning when I pedal. Thus I don't know if it is totally broken or is maybe just clogged, or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to just repair it without buying new things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your time and answers (p.s. sorry for my bad English)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3198" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T13:17:35.303" Title="When I pedal the rear wheel is not turning" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7573" CreationDate="2012-01-08T13:57:21.113" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like either the freehub on the rear wheel, if you have the newer cassette style, or the freewheel, if you have the older thread on design, needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These parts contain the pawls which drive the wheel forward when you pedal. If the pawls are broken, or simply not engaging the hub shell, you will pedal with no forward movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/4610/1259&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to the question &lt;strong&gt;What causes the noise that race wheels make when you are not pedaling?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T17:20:08.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7573" CreationDate="2012-01-08T14:31:33.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a single-speed bike (no shifting mechanism) then the rear hub is probably seized up and needs to be overhauled or replaced.  The hubs are designed to be overhauled by ten-year-olds (at least this ten-year-old did so, many decades ago) using ordinary tools, so they're not particularly complicated if you're mechanically inclined (or have a friend who is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the hub may be so badly rusted that it needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rear hub is a derailer-type hub with multiple sprockets then likely the &quot;pawls&quot; are broken or stuck as Zenbike suggests.  These can sometimes be repaired, but replacement is a better option.  Depending on the age of the unit it's either a &quot;freewheel&quot; unit where the pawls are in the sprocket &quot;cluster&quot; or a &quot;freehub&quot; unit where the pawls are in a attachment to the hub itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is something like an old 3-speed hub (with a thin shift chain entering one end of the axle then it could be just a problem with shifter adjustment, but if not then the bike is probably not worth repairing (unless you can find used parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T14:31:33.683" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7580" CreationDate="2012-01-08T17:50:49.240" Score="5" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 6 years old bike, I got it when I was 9. It's a great bike, however I've always had the problem of maintaining it properly. I have a few questions which I hope to get answered here. Before everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. How can I maintain my bike during winters?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a small house in the city, and during winters I often am at a loss when it comes to maintaining my bike because I can't put it in the house (It's a big bike, and the hallway is tiny). After winter the bike often has terrible problems which take me at least a month to fix. They are: Rust, dust, completely useless tires, sometimes even a loose chain, and it makes terrible noise until I oil it. How can I maintain it during winter? I should note I have a tiny tool shed I keep it into. It's not helping by much but it's better than being outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.How long should a bike tire stay pumped?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I very often find my tires loose after 3-4 weeks from the last pump. I'm wondering if this is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. What are the basic things that you have to do when maintaining your bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these years I have been oiling specific areas of my bike and pumping my tires occasionally but that's pretty much it. Can you tell me other things you can do to maintain your bike at top performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3199" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T21:03:48.660" Title="Maintaining an old bike properly" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7581" CreationDate="2012-01-08T19:05:30.350" Score="2" ViewCount="3271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a steel frame that I got off ebay. I'm removing the existing paint using wire brush adapters for a drill (didn't want to get involved in nasty chemical baths). One result of this is that it gives a nice &quot;brushed&quot; effect, which I thought would look quite nice unpainted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a clear lacquer, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_203865_langId_-1_categoryId_165495&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, be sufficient to keep rust at bay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T18:36:55.323" Title="Clear lacquer on steel frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7559" CreationDate="2012-01-08T20:08:37.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All things being equal helmets keep you safer. However, things are rarely equal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07o-TASvIxY%20%22Ted%20Talk%20about%20bicycle%20issues%20and%20helmet%20propaganda%20and%20safety&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ted Talk about bicycle issues and helmet propaganda and safety&lt;/a&gt; talks about increased accidents with helmets on. This may be a result of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Risk_homeostasis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Risk homeostasis&lt;/a&gt; or as others have suggested is a result of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0001457506001540&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;increased risk taking on behalf of car drivers&lt;/a&gt;. Another point raised by the video shows the type of impact a typical bike helmet protects against is very particular on the crown of the head. Meaning bike helmets are not tested for front, rear, and side impacts. Depending on the accident your particular helmet may provide no, or marginally additional protection over a bare head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand there are plenty of arguments which state the effectiveness of helmets. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/stats.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute&lt;/a&gt; unsurprisingly has many studies on it's site which show how effective helmets can be. This should be expected since any safety device which does not implicitly have additional safety concerns should increase safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question becomes more personal in nature when you understand both sides. What makes sense for me? What risks am I exposed to? What risks do I find acceptable and not acceptable? Most people find the risk of walking around without a helmet acceptable. At some point there is a grey area, such as riding a bike without a helmet. Then there is a clearly unacceptable area for most like playing Russian roulette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07o-TASvIxY%20%22Ted%20Talk%20about%20bicycle%20issues%20and%20helmet%20propaganda%20and%20safety&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ted Talk&lt;/a&gt; the health benefits of riding a bike far outweigh the risks of riding without a helmet. As such compulsory helmets don't make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastEditorUserId="3047" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T18:54:24.173" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T18:54:24.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7577" CreationDate="2012-01-08T21:03:48.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you must leave a bike outside during winter, the best thing to do is to shelter it as best you can (eg, under an eave, but &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; in the &quot;dripline&quot;) and cover it with a sturdy plastic tarp.  The tarp should be tied down well to keep it from blowing off, but should be open at the bottom to allow air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before storing the bike, squirt some chain oil on the chain and sprockets, and squirt some aerosol lube (not WD40 but maybe something like LPS or SuperLube) down the brake and shift cable housings.  Dab off excess but leave a good coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, hang the bike or store it upside down, so that the weight is not on the tires.  (Standard quality tires and tubes will hold enough air to support a bike without going flat for anywhere from about a month to 6 months, but will only hold enough air to support the rider for 2 days to two weeks.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, maintenance is based on wear.  Clean and relube the chain once a season or (ideally) every 500 miles, replace the chain after maybe 2000 (get yourself a chain stretch gauge to check this).  Have a bike shop check the sprockets for wear after maybe 5000 miles and then every 1000.  Have the wheel and headset bearings relubed every 10,000 miles or so.  Replace tires when the tread wears through or when the sidewalls develop cracks.  Replace tubes when you replace tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T21:03:48.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7578" CreationDate="2012-01-08T21:16:47.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer recommends this product for protecting a painted surface and not used on bare metal. Lacquer by its nature (at least the types still available in the U.S.) provides a beautiful finish but not very good at chip resistance. It is typically applied in multiple layers with sanding between coats. Take this to mean very time consuming and tedious. I would look for a product designed for bare metal, a urethane or clear epoxy should be much more durable than a lacquer. I would suggest finding an old bike or scrap pipe and practice your technique particularly in the headset and bottom bracket area. If you took the frame apart, tape all the threaded areas to keep the clear out of the threaded parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="1260" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T18:36:55.323" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T18:36:55.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7563" CreationDate="2012-01-08T23:28:31.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can pick up any low-cost standard-reach rear brake. In a pinch, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_175336_-1_201521_10000_202343&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some of the models from Nashbar work&lt;/a&gt;. You can zip-tie or run cable clips to route your brake cable. Be sure to acquire a long length of cable housing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T23:28:31.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2012-01-09T03:03:36.023" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the strava app (and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://strava.com&quot;&gt;strava.com&lt;/a&gt; website)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The app will record your ride and map the route via GPS and upload to the strava website for further analysis. Strava will auto-detect any significant climb and mark it as a segment, or match sections of your ride against already existing segments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you upload a few rides and see how cool the segments are, you will love their segment explorer on the website to find new routes that are popular in your area, or search for new areas to ride while on vacation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T03:03:36.023" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-09T03:03:36.023" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7585" CreationDate="2012-01-09T03:20:07.833" Score="3" ViewCount="1795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/tcr.advanced.sl.isp.frameset.black/9005/51138/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carbon frame&lt;/a&gt; with an integrated seatpost. The saddle sits on a clamp that is meant to secure the saddle on the seatpost and NOT hold the weight of the rider too. I went on a ride and my knees started to bother me, so I went to adjust the height of the saddle and after reading the torque number for the binder clamp, realized I was shit out of luck and was going to either raise the saddle and risk damaging the carbon fiber or let it be and hurt my knees more.  I of course chose to raise my saddle. So now I have some nasty gouges where the clamp rubbed the length of the seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have spacers in place now to raise the saddle to the correct height but now I have some ugly scratches that are visible just below the binder clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question is, what should I use to keep the surface carbon from cracking more and to seal it up?  I have been told to use either paint(not sure what kind) and to use a clear nail polish. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2817" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T05:27:17.067" Title="Repair superficial damage to a carbon frame" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7584" CreationDate="2012-01-09T04:37:35.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have repaired non structural and surface carbon blemishes with clear nail polish. I had no issues and used the handle bars for several years with no issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T04:37:35.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7570" CreationDate="2012-01-09T04:39:53.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Craftsman robo grips pliers. Kind of a cross between channel locks and vice grips. They really help with enough force and grip to get broken bolts lose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T04:39:53.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7584" CreationDate="2012-01-09T05:27:17.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been advised by my local supplier of carbon fibre to use a polyurethane paint to finish carbon fibre. You can buy it in spray cans from a paint or hardware shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use paint stripper because that will damage the epoxy resin used to bind the carbon fibre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T05:27:17.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7570" CreationDate="2012-01-09T06:29:58.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure would be great to have some more pics of the larger scenario but I'm assuming we are looking at the axle bolt and the wheel is stuck in the frame. Here's some things to try: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a small piece of 2x4 place it on top of the tensioner and use a hammer to come down on it. If that doesn't work hit it from the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Putting a bit of grease in there can't hurt, and if there are cracks it might help a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A heating implement to expand the metal on the tensioner may open up the hole. Try a soldering iron, or a propane torch. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bolt cutter or hack saw to the axle between the frame and the hub (if you can make room, loosening the other side should help. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drill out the inside of the bolt and it will collapse. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T06:29:58.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7570" CreationDate="2012-01-09T07:02:13.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless I'm missing something, you should just be able to remove the chain using a chain tool, and then slide the wheel back in the dropout.  This would free the chaintug from the back of the dropout, then you could rotate it down out of the way and be free to slide the wheel forward and remove it.  Once the wheel's out, take the chaintug off the axle and have the full suite of machine tools available to drill out or otherwise remove and replace the broken bolt at your leisure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T07:02:13.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7535" CreationDate="2012-01-09T09:06:52.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much maintenance required. Just apply grease very lightly on the axile before inserting, make sure it is a thin layer evenly spread on the whole length. This helps for insertion and prevents seizure. We don't want seizure here, as it is a pain to get out the stuck through axile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T09:06:52.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7606" CreationDate="2012-01-09T12:12:10.130" Score="1" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I insert a carbon seatpost up to 20cm deep into seat tube? The seattube is carbon as well. Total length of the seatpost is 35cm. The shape of the seatpost is aero seatpost (tear drop shape). It's a Pinarello Dogma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T04:54:18.083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T12:46:19.167" Title="Carbon seatpost dip in?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4768" CreationDate="2012-01-09T13:35:46.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just replaced a 10 speed cassette with 7 speed and had a similar problem with the studs protruding from the rear of the cassette.  These studs can be ground flat using a grinder, as far as I can see they serve no purpose other than to hold the cassette assembly together when not on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3209" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T13:35:46.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2012-01-09T14:12:35.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With reference to the &lt;strong&gt;physical mounting&lt;/strong&gt;, I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003O1V5CY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;&amp;#40;I got it from Amazon&amp;#41;&quot;&gt;Breffo Spiderpodium&lt;/a&gt; to grip my smartphone to the handlebar stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I was sceptical that it would hold, but was impressed that it stuck for a number of 80+ mile training rides and was inexpensive. It also didn't judder the phone, and was flexible enough to absorb vibrations along the way (although this was on a touring bike, so I wasn't off-road).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without wanting to expand the scope of the question (my phone is an &lt;strong&gt;Android&lt;/strong&gt;) and with reference to the &lt;strong&gt;app&lt;/strong&gt;, I used Google &lt;a href=&quot;http://mytracks.appspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Google My Tracks for Android&quot;&gt;My Tracks&lt;/a&gt; to log my route. It had all the profiling I needed and tight integration with my Google Maps account (ask for link, I can't post a 3rd until 10 rep), but isn't available for iPhone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3210" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T14:12:35.467" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-09T14:12:35.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2012-01-09T16:45:20.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem and I invented a product called the Leg Shield that works extremely well. Its a large strap that covers your lower right pant leg. When you wear it you won't get grease on your pants or get your pants caught in the chain. Amazon: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006J0PHAI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006J0PHAI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3214" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T16:45:20.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-09T18:38:06.677" Score="5" ViewCount="4256" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's bike doesn't have room on the upright to mount the Krytonite U-Lock she was given as a gift. The plastic mounting bracket sticks out way too far. She has a small framed Specialized Vita. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some alternate bracket that can be purchased that would allow it to be mounted via the existing holes in the frame where the water bottle bracket would go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3216" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T04:45:03.987" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T14:13:27.143" Title="Alternate mount for Kryptonite U-Lock?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7728" CreationDate="2012-01-09T19:31:21.350" Score="3" ViewCount="9848" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following up on the same bike as my &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5132/just-bought-a-vintage-sprinter-gran-touring-where-to-find-info&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt;, we were able to get it cleaned up an running very well at the end of last summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/614041/web/sprinter0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Original bike&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/614041/web/IMG_4699.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Final bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brother has been riding it for a few months now and the main issue is that the SunTour friction shifter for the rear derailleur doesn't hold tension and frequently shifts to the smaller cogs on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a set of SunTour LePree downtube shifters to replace the shifter that's currently on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropbox.com/u/614041/web/suntour-lepree.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;SunTour LePree shifters&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on installing a clamp with shift bosses like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/614041/web/suntour-clamp.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;28.6 mm diameter clamp with shift bosses&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are no cable stops on the bike. The housing has been clamped like below and the shifter housing runs right up to the current shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/614041/web/IMG_4706.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cable housing clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new shifter doesn't have a cable housing stop and so I'm considering using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004FSVVN8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clamp-on cable stop&lt;/a&gt; on the downtube closer to the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eeFMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clamp-on cable stop&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I on the right track or is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-11T12:43:54.323" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T12:43:54.323" Title="Installing downtube shifters on a bike with no bosses or cable stops" Tags="&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7595" CreationDate="2012-01-09T20:27:06.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there some alternate bracket that can be purchased that would allow it to be mounted via the existing holes in the frame where the water bottle bracket would go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, Kryptonite makes more than one U-Lock &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Products/List.aspx?cid=1001&amp;amp;scid=1000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(at least 6 models)&lt;/a&gt; and more than one mounting. So, my first impulse would be to check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/CustomerService/Contact.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kryptonite site&lt;/a&gt; or inquire at a local bike shop that carries the Kryptonite product line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, Does the lock really need to mount on the frame? If the bike has a rear rack, the lock could get bungeed there. Or perhaps in a pannier? Or backpack/messenger bag? Jersey pocket? And, just sayin, the hipsters around here keep U-locks in their back pockets and that's for fun. ;~) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be rude, but U-locks can be mounted or carried in a few places. Personally, I don't carry the U-lock on the water bottle mounts...mainly since I actually do want water bottles to be on the frame mounts. But hey, it's up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T00:10:17.190" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T00:10:17.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4342" CreationDate="2012-01-09T23:35:27.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost every bike computer on the market offers the basic features you listed.  Heartrate, GPS, and cadence all bump up the cost; in combination, they cost even more.  You will not find any GPS units for under $100; the Edge 200 is your cheapest option for a GPS-enabled bike computer near that price range.  If you're looking for maximum reliability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a wired unit, not a wireless unit.  Wireless units go through batteries, have interference issues with other radio sources and other bike computers, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't buy no-name brands.  Between Cateye, Sigma, Specialized, Garmin, etc you should be able to find something.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't buy off ebay.  Buy from a local bike shop or retailer that will offer a satisfaction guarantee, like REI.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T23:35:27.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7563" CreationDate="2012-01-09T23:39:20.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; adding a rear brake, you should add a &lt;strong&gt;front brake&lt;/strong&gt; instead, and &lt;strong&gt;learn to use it properly&lt;/strong&gt;. Any standard reach front brake should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to have both brakes, then use the full length housing and zip ties as others have mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The complete bike as specd by Surly has a front brake only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T23:39:20.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7591" CreationDate="2012-01-10T03:30:43.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure you could,  Only the top two or three inches of the seat tube are machined to match the diameter of the seatpost.  But my question is why you'd want to do so.  Cut the seatpost off!!  You don't need more than about 4 - 5 inches inside the frame.  Put a fine-tooth blade in your hacksaw, wrap some good tape just above where you are going to cut it, clamp the part you're cutting off in a vise, and saw away--gently--don't press down too hard on the saw.  It'll turn out just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3219" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T03:30:43.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-10T05:07:15.037" Score="13" ViewCount="74366" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has a mountain bike that survived last years Queensland's floods (Australia, that is), but is all battered and bruised after not being ridden for a year. With my beginner's repair skills, I managed to make it almost roadworthy. The main problem now is the front brake lever: It will activate the brakes when pulled (and they work just fine) but the lever won't spring back into place when releasing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas as to why that might be? Is there some spring that has can be replaced or does the lever have to go altogether? I have applied some WD40 inside the lever as I noticed some rusty parts there, but it didn't do the trick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt; &#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I got some new cables and cable outers (cost me an arm and a leg here in Australia!), but it didn't do the trick. I dismantled the brake lever, only to see there is a spring inside the lever. (The spring resembles 2 circles of 5mm diameter with two 1mm vertical tips on either side. I presume that the tips serve to &quot;hook&quot; the lever &amp;amp; possible return it to position.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This spring was rusty and fell apart when I tried to squeeze it. To conclude, since everything else is new, the issue is either: - This rusty spring that needs replacing, or - The 90o cable guide that was also rusty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3220" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-02-14T17:42:54.163" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T01:30:48.283" Title="brake lever will not return" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4342" CreationDate="2012-01-10T05:42:25.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an android/iphone/blackberry phone with gps, there are many bike computer apps out there and a lot of them are free!&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I'm using endomondo because my friends use that one too, so makes it easier to compare ride stats. It has everything you want and if you want extras (hrm and&#xA;cadence) you can buy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T05:42:25.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2012-01-10T05:56:18.430" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things to check and I'm assuming you're running V-brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My first guess is that the brake cable inside the brake cable housing is sticking. Some light oil on the cable could help. (WD40 is a solvent, do not use it on cabling or chains and do not use it where you want to maintain lubrication on parts. Look for some light oil like TriFlow, or whatever your LBS sells.) If the brake cable does not travel smoothly, I would suggest a new brake cable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you unhook the brake cable at the front brake arms, the arms should travel smoothly and you should feel some spring action that will resist squeezing. If the brake arms have no spring to them, that's a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the brake cable unhooked, the brake hand lever should move freely. If it doesn't then oil it. Light oil should penetrate any rust, and that might take 20 minutes of sitting before it works in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the brakes in good condition is worthwhile and important. If you don't feel confident about how they feel, seek some help. Having a front wheel misbehave can be quite dangerous. Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T05:56:18.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7595" CreationDate="2012-01-10T06:16:50.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Twofish CycleBlock or MegaBlock is a good universal lock holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T06:16:50.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7591" CreationDate="2012-01-10T12:46:19.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On most frames, yes, you can put as much of the post into the frame as you'd like. However, you are likely to remove graphics, and scratch the top coat of the carbon, so if you care about things like that, don't put it farther into the frame than is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a permanent position, cut it, as suggested above. Be sure to check the manufacturers' recommendations for your post. Not every post can be cut to any length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to, try to put it at that position, gently. If anything stops, sticks, blocks it, or doesn't feel right, stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T12:46:19.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7595" CreationDate="2012-01-10T14:13:27.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike in question has a rack, you can generally loop bungee cord around it to make u-lock holder that is fast to use and keeps to lock secure in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1774" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T14:13:27.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-10T15:07:48.447" Score="10" ViewCount="60236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some new tubeless MTB rims and I'd like to avoid buying new tyres for them.  The tyres are reasonably sturdy (Continental Race King Protection - 4 plies / total 240tpi) and I have sealant. As I understand it the sidewalls aren't as tough so you can't run on quite as low pressures as UST tyres but that's OK with me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other potential problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:50:49.497" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:50:49.497" Title="Can you run a standard tyre on a tubeless rim?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7610" CreationDate="2012-01-10T18:09:07.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never played with tubeless bike tires, but I assume there are conceptual similarities to tubeless auto tires.  First off, a tubeless tire isn't really tubeless -- there is a &quot;tube&quot; (thin layer of solid rubber) laminated to the inside of the tire to contain the air.  Presumably the sealant you have would serve the same purpose, but it's not clear how well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the tubeless tire has a specially-designed bead area, smoother than a tube-type tire and designed to seal tightly to the rim.  Your typical bike tire has a fairly rough bead area, and not one that would naturally make a tight seal.  But again, the sealant may make up for this to a degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the sidewalls, the likely problem would be that the tube-type tire's sidewalls are not flexible enough (and the bead not stiff enough), and so, when flexed, might not allow the bead to remain in tight contact with the rim.  This could result in seal failures when hitting a bump, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T18:09:07.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-10T20:24:22.263" Score="3" ViewCount="2949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a JetBlack M1 Pro Mag Trainer. I use my road bike on it, with slick tires. However it is still pretty noisy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the ways to reduce noise from a magnetic trainer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T16:52:44.573" Title="Reducing noise on a bike trainer" Tags="&lt;noise&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-02-02T04:10:50.180" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7613" CreationDate="2012-01-10T21:04:47.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that by using trainer specific tires the noise gets lower (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/?s=tyre%20trainer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that usually helps is to put a carpet under the trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the major culprit for noise is the trainer itself, so I fear you should buy another model of trainer if, even by using carpet and proper tyres, it's still too much noisy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="777" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T21:04:47.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7617" CreationDate="2012-01-10T22:05:49.697" Score="4" ViewCount="2462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-10&quot;&gt;Park PCS-10&lt;/a&gt; repair stand, and just acquired my first carbon bike. Is there anything I should know about clamping either the frame or seatpost in the stand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a few years old, the frame and seatpost are perfectly round and non-aero. Is it safe to clamp them in the stand? Do I need an adaptor? Or should I avoid clamping it in a stand entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T17:32:10.313" Title="Carbon Seatpost / Frame in Repair Stand" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7620" CreationDate="2012-01-10T22:18:14.467" Score="4" ViewCount="982" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title says it all. I want to build my own frame and need lugs that will fit the roadster (e.g. Raleigh Tourist) geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3373" LastEditorUserId="1260" LastEditDate="2012-01-13T16:17:31.580" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T12:41:01.317" Title="Where can I buy lugs for a classic roadster frame geometry?" Tags="&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7615" CreationDate="2012-01-11T00:28:41.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Park  Tool suggests contacting the frame manufacturer for advise,apparently different makers designate different clamping points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T00:28:41.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7616" CreationDate="2012-01-11T00:36:50.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://ceeway.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-01-11T02:06:54.073" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T02:06:54.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7615" CreationDate="2012-01-11T00:48:52.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I clamp my bikes by the seat post (they are aluminium seat posts on my bkes) for maintaince tasks that dont involve a lot of force (like removing bottom brakets) If I need to apply a lot of force then I put my bike on the ground and support it with my body. If you have a carbon seat post you need to be carefull that you do not clamp it too tight because the usual advice is that clamping forces are the most likly to cause damage to carbon components. You could always swap out the carbon post for an aluminum one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3151" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T00:48:52.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7616" CreationDate="2012-01-11T02:52:37.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by &quot;roadster geometry&quot; you mean a slack (66-68 degree) head tube and seat tube angle I think you might be out of luck for anything commercially produced. The cost of creating a wide variety of investment castings and distributing the product is high and the demand is minuscule.  You might look into TIG-welded custom lugs, such as those made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://antbikemike.wordpress.com/frame-building-classes/one-week-class/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ANT bikes&lt;/a&gt; or by Mark Nobilette as described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikequarterly.com/BuildersSpeak.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Quarterly vol. 4 no. 4&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://antbikemike.files.wordpress.com/2009/03/john-wc-001.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This ANT-built bike&lt;/a&gt; appears to be an example of a roadster geometry frame using custom lugs. Most of the examples of bicycles I've seen in this style appear to have just very simple tubular lugs rather than anything particularly fancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T07:32:13.927" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T07:32:13.927" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7515" CreationDate="2012-01-11T06:33:27.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is some Australian data from an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingresourcecentre.org.au/post/national_cycling_participation_survey&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Australian Bicycle Council report&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;On 31 August 2011 the Australian Bicycle Council released the results of the National Cycling Participation Survey.  The survey found that in a typical week around 18% of Australians ride a bicycle for transport and recreation with around 3.6 million people riding for recreation, leisure or sport and 1.2 million people making at least one transport journey.&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="568" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T06:33:27.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7624" CreationDate="2012-01-11T12:07:17.557" Score="3" ViewCount="6086" Body="&lt;p&gt;Helo Guys,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know your experience about carbon material and grease&#xA;Can I use normal grease with carbon ? &#xA;I want to put grease onto fork and stem....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or WD-40 or silicone penetrant would be ok ?&#xA;Thank you....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use this one ?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QhpnC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p231/picture_77/13012012170.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="3189" LastEditDate="2012-01-13T03:14:55.007" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T03:14:55.007" Title="Can I use normal grease for a car on the surface of carbon bike?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2012-01-11T13:00:21.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_g.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grease lubrication is commonly used on all ball bearings. Good mechanics also use grease (or oil) on the threads of most threaded fittings and fasteners, and also inside the steerer (to keep the stem from becoming stuck) and the seat tube (to keep the seatpost from becoming stuck.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a great many different greases on the market with different special features, mainly for automotive applications. For bicycle use, almost any grease is adequate, since the loads and temperatures are generally low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems to me like the answer is &lt;em&gt;yes&lt;/em&gt;, although to be safe why don't you invest in some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/fortified-grease.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Finish Line Teflon Grease&lt;/a&gt; - one tube will last you for years. From the Finish Line &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finishlineusa.com/frequentquestions/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. Are Finish Line products safe for use on Carbon Fiber Frames and Parts?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A. Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; All of our products are safe to use on carbon fiber bike parts; our three degreasers, four lubes, our polish, grease, etc are all safe to use on and around carbon fiber bike parts. The exception is our DOT Brake Fluid – you don’t want to get DOT fluid on any painted or finished surface because it’ll attack the paint / finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T16:55:59.317" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2012-01-11T14:18:32.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most automotive use grease is too thick for bicycle applications. It will lubricate, but it will add friction to the movement of the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the &quot;weight&quot; of the grease, you only need to worry about purity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phil Wood, of Phil Wood Components, used to say that his most important criteria for his bicycle grease was too make sure it matched the color of his original green sample. If it varied, even a little, he was besieged by inquiries about what he'd changed in his &quot;formula&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T14:18:32.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7623" CreationDate="2012-01-11T15:04:37.283" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i would be careful of any type of grease i use on a bike.. Grease attracts the dirt and can lead to further issues on the mechanics of your bike. like stated before - use an oil specially formulated for your bike. and make sure after every cycle to clean your bike down and re-oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3229" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T15:04:37.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3638" CreationDate="2012-01-11T16:48:33.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of great answers already. Every area is different, but if I were building a trail in my locale I would want rudimentary rope kit. That said ropes can be dangerous and the internet isn't the place to learn to use them. That said I would bring a harness, belay/repel devices, rope, anchors and a mechanical advantage system. This stuff will let you safely move around, delimb and build heaviers bridges than you can lift by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T16:48:33.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7615" CreationDate="2012-01-11T17:32:10.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recommendation I got from abike shop was to clamp to the seatpost (it is carbon). However, they said the safest thing to do would be to keep an aluminum seatpost around and swap it out whenever I want to use the repair stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I observed the same bike mechanics work on my bike and they simply clamped the bike by its carbon fiber seatpost without swapping it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T17:32:10.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7642" CreationDate="2012-01-11T21:42:49.277" Score="2" ViewCount="27772" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I set up a bike with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10-speed tiagra shifters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10-speed dura ace read derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9-speed 105 front derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it cause problems if I use components from different series? (All of these are from within the past year or two.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-01-11T22:49:07.110" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T14:42:19.820" Title="Will it cause problems if I use components from different series?" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-11T22:14:13.487" Score="2" ViewCount="2472" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend gave me a carbon set of campag record 9 speed ergos.  I would love to convert the 9 to 10 Speed and I understand it is possible.  I have read that some dealers will do it but the cost is almost same as new set of levers. Has anybody done it and was it difficult?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3232" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T09:04:44.880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T03:25:50.193" Title="Convert 9 speeed Campagnolo Ergo Levers to 10 Speed" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7629" CreationDate="2012-01-11T22:38:42.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can mix components from different series (you see many bikes with a mix of component level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT, you cannot mix 9/10 speed, do not use a 10 speed sti shifter with 9 speed derailleur. Additionally, check your front shifter to see if was made for double or triple chainring and make sure your front derailleur will work with the number of chain rings you are going to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T22:38:42.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-11T22:41:57.683" Score="1" ViewCount="1067" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find free online spinning or turbo classes? Ideally videos, but just audio or even an annotated playlist would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T18:38:00.000" Title="Online turbo / spinning resources" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7630" CreationDate="2012-01-11T22:47:38.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not too difficult to rebuild campy leavers - although a extra set of hands can be handy for one of the steps where you need to hold a spring in position (there is a trick to it). You can get the parts if you ask around local shops or online and you can convert from 8 to 9 to 10 speed provided the internals are the same type - you should be OK as you have the 9 speed ones, 10 speed and up may different. The G springs were about $10 when I last braught a set and I have seen the cam/ratchet part online for arount $50 - but that was a while ago, and in Australia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look up the book &quot;zin and the art of road bike maintaince&quot; or rebuilding ergoleavers section on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campyonly.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.campyonly.com/&lt;/a&gt; (right at the bottom). On the campagnolo website there are manuals that include exploaded diagrams of all their components and part numbers, and when I last looked had the ergo leavers had listed the part numbers you need to change the number of speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3151" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T22:47:38.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7629" CreationDate="2012-01-11T22:55:15.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;9 and 10 speed are pretty close in width, so you should be OK to mix 10 speed shifters with a 9 speed frount derailleur ( I have several bikes set up like that ). Just make sure the limit screws are set up correctly so the chain does not fall off. At the rear you need to make sure that cable pull is compatible. I'm not to sure about your situation because Dura-ace has at times used a different cable pull to other shimano derailleurs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3151" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T22:55:15.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7616" CreationDate="2012-01-12T05:19:57.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nova Cycle Supply offers many framebuilding components including lugs. I can't speak to geometries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T05:19:57.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-12T06:05:59.140" Score="5" ViewCount="20333" Body="&lt;p&gt;About two weeks ago I took my bike to the local bike shop to get serviced. It was previously slipping gears under load and at the end I couldn't use the lowest gear going up hill it would just slip constantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mentioned the crunching / slipping to the guy at the counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I went to pick up my bike I was charge $170 bucks for two new set of brakes, replaced one bolt type thing which was apparantly shredded (called a cone or something along those lines) and to have all the gears properly set. I was also told that the rear derailleur arm was bent and this was straightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike only cost $100 from a reliable friend who only rode it ocassionally and the bike is 3 years old. So the service was &lt;em&gt;comparitively&lt;/em&gt; costly compared to the cost of the whole bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past few days it has started slipping again under load which is what it was doing previously and it won't hold gear at all when in the very lowest 1 1 combination it always slips to 1 2. It is also very noisy when I sit in my average riding gear which is either in 4th or 5th in the rear gears. The crunching is slightly dangerous because it can happen taking off from traffic lights or when I put extra pressure on to leave an intersection / roundabout etc. when cars are waiting behind me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing is when I picked up my bike I asked about the slipping and the response was kind of like &quot;ah, yeh, ah, that should be OK now&quot; which sounded to me like they didn't take it for a significant ride after repairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side, these guys are supposed to be reputable, they have been around for a few years and the bike is not a supermarket bike it was actually purchased in their shop and in their defence the bike worked and sounded like a dream when I took it out of the shop so it is possible they did take it for a test ride even if they didn't sound convincing when they said so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm only an amateur so it is hard for me to describe what the problem is, it's like a split second crunch and it doesn't move down or up gear. Sometimes it feels like it is just slightly out of gear and then after riding for 2 minutes it will crunch for a second and then it will not crunch again unless I change to a different gear. Sometimes I can just sense that it isn't quite right and swith back and forward between gears. Although, when I look down at the rear gears it all looks settled even if it doesn't feel right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also not sure if it is the rear derailleur cogs where it is slipping or the gears, I have no idea because I can't visually spot it and can't tell exactly where the sensation is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any advice on what my next steps should be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2460" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-02T04:05:00.820" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T00:54:37.497" Title="Adivce on what to do next with crunching / slipping gears" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7636" CreationDate="2012-01-12T09:22:02.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like the rear cogs are worn, the likely fix is a new chain and set of cogs for the rear (you have to replace them both at the same time otherwise the problem will persist, perversely even worse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the bike shop fixed/replaced the stuff that was obviously visibly knackered and hoped for the best.  In truth I suspect they needed to do what they did plus replace the cogs and chain, but they were hoping that wasn't the case because the bill would have been even higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience bike shops don't tend to actually ride the bikes so they can miss stuff I wish they wouldn't.  That's one of the reasons I learnt to do my own maintenance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general the trick with bike shops is to check your bike before you sign off on the work, i.e. I ask to ride my bike around to test it before I leave the bike shop (and pay).  If I do find I still have a problem after leaving the bike shop  and paying I go straight back and explain the problem and say it's not quite sorted yet.  They are normally very reasonable and will sort the problem without additional charge, assuming it doesn't require new parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to go back to the bike shop and explain the problem isn't quite sorted and if possible demonstrate it to them.  It will cost more money though, it sucks but unfortunately bikes aren't generally that cheap when it comes to maintenance (compared to the initial cost of the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T09:22:02.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7636" CreationDate="2012-01-12T11:23:21.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some pitfalls beyond the correctly pointed worn teeth, mentioned by Colin Newell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Derailer hanger might be misaligned, which causes some gears to not properly engage;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;bent&quot; derailer, which was straightened by the shop, might not be totally straight yet, even if it looks so (there is a parellellogram that needs to be perfectly aligned to work properly);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear shifter cable might not be running free inside the housings, which might leave the derailer between gears, or might let the gears slowly slip to a higher one as the lightly stuck cable slowly slips back inside the housing;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gears might be mismatched, for example, the shifter might show one gear number and the actual gear is other, because the cable is much shorter or much longer, or the adjusting screw was overturned and &quot;shifted&quot; the whole system one whole gear up or down;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much more odd stuff would be: incompatible chain-and-sprockets, bent rear axle, excentric or misaligned (&quot;wobbling&quot;) cassette, chain with &quot;hard links&quot; which slip over sprockets' teeth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope it is not too mystical for you to check, but surely it is worth trying to grasp the essence of bicycle drivetrain mechanics, so you will be a much more powerful and self-reliant cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find something, write a comment or edit your question, and don't forget to accept your preferred answer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T11:23:21.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7632" CreationDate="2012-01-12T11:24:53.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are loads of plans on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.turbotraining.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;turbotraining.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;. They're text only, but if you subscribe you can use the online &quot;player&quot; which works really well. The audio is either supplied by digitally imported radio (trance channel) or you could just have your own music. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, I met the guys from &lt;a href=&quot;http://audiofuel.co.uk/turbo-training-music/powerblast-turbo-training-music&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;powerblast&lt;/a&gt; at the TCR show last year. They've created audio sets that have variable BPMs with the idea that you match your RPM to the music. I've not tried them myself but they seem like a pretty good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I find that so long as you have a specific and varied set, and some decent music in the background, it's not too tortuous. If you try to do an hour with no set in mind then it becomes tedious as hell! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T11:24:53.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4868" CreationDate="2012-01-12T13:02:08.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike I use out of my stable of 5 road bikes &amp;amp; 1 recumbent tricycle for touring (mostly 5 day trips) is a rebuilt 1975 Raleigh super course. This came as a 10 gear bicycle which I immediately put on a triple crank. It now has 21 gears. 16 years ago when Shimano cluster cogs were on their way out I bought enough in the proper tooth sizes to last me 20-30 years (chainrings are still available) so I can not really advise what to do. The shop in Madison, WI. is out of cogs. Harris Cyclery (which is for me a local shop) still lists on their website a few freewheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tricycle is my only pedal powered vehicle that is completely up to date with 9 speed cluster &amp;amp; hyperglide. I learned to friction shift in the late 60s. With indexed handlebar end controls I feel I have the best system, brifters are expensive &amp;amp; not necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far bottom brackets are concerned until Phil Wood sold his company I had an open account there which made his products more affordable. I always used Phil bottom brackets.&#xA; I have 4 of his, 1 conventional one &amp;amp; the swiss mountain drive for my 54 gear tricycle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3236" LastEditorUserId="1131" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T23:25:04.800" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T23:25:04.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7629" CreationDate="2012-01-12T14:42:19.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;code&gt;Your best performance will come from using components which were designed to work together, i.e. with the complete drive train from the same year and series. That doesn't mean that different combinations will not work together at all, however.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I have occasionally used a 9 speed front derailleur with a 10 speed drivetrain as an emergency fix, it shouldn't be used for a permanent set up. Your shifting performance will suffer, even if they are both double or both triple components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the year and model of the Dura Ace components matters. The 7900 STI levers, which are current Dura Ace, have compatibility issues with the 7800 front derailleur of just 2 years ago, even though Shimano says they are fully compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've added scans of the Shimano 2012 Compatibility charts for front and rear drive train components. You will notice that no 9 speed part is listed as compatible with any 10 speed part, but that even the new 4600 Tiagra 10-speed is listed as compatible with all 10 speed components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shimano Front Derailleur Compatibility Chart&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1y1S.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano Front Derailleur Compatibility Chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shimano Rear Derailleur Compatibility Chart&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yU3Di.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano Rear Derailleur Compatibility Chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T14:42:19.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7489" CreationDate="2012-01-12T15:22:27.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check this out, Im gonna paint my bike soon...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Night-Bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Night-Bike/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3238" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T15:22:27.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4868" CreationDate="2012-01-12T15:38:29.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Jacek says...My main ride is a 1972 Cilo/Swiss roadster with a Columbus frame.  Nice frame, nice Shimano 600 components.... But sub-par with other bits.&#xA;Nasty steel crank, nasty Malliard wheels, Sort-of-OK Weinemann brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spread the frame to accept a contemporary Shimano 7-speed wheel.  (looking for a nice 8-speed) Replaced the front wheel similarly. Replaced the crank with a contemporary 39-52 aluminum item.   Replaced the rather beat-up brake levers with Shimano items.&#xA;So now, I have a nice, smooth-riding vintage steel-framed bike.  Use it almost daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T15:38:29.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7489" CreationDate="2012-01-12T16:04:27.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;BikeGlow EL wire as well as Monkeylectric wheel lights would get you about as bright, but my guess is that bike was made to glow using video effects in post processing, not real life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T16:04:27.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7653" CreationDate="2012-01-12T20:12:01.500" Score="3" ViewCount="9130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to replace my 7 speed HG70 cassette and chain. My problem is that it is increasingly difficult to find quality parts for 7 speed system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a Trek 970 from 1993, originally with Deore XT / DX system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last time I changed I could bought a 7 speed HG70 12-28 cassette and a HG70 chain, but now these are super rare and are only possible to find on eBay for NOS prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to ask is that what are the exact steps and parts I need to change if I would like to upgrade for an 8 of 9 system, as mentioned by Sheldon Brown? Other than buying a 9 speed cassette, a 9 speed chain and a 9 speed rear shifter, what do I need to buy or fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3242" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T23:21:52.730" Title="Options for replacing a 7 speed Shimano cassette / chain" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7632" CreationDate="2012-01-12T21:18:34.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesufferfest.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Sufferfest&lt;/a&gt;.  I haven't tried these out yet as I need to get up the courage to try out my new rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T21:18:34.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-12T22:13:49.243" Score="5" ViewCount="20317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some expensive &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=44139&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydraulic hose cutting tools&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I just want to cut the two new brake hoses I have now, so I don't want to buy an expensive tool.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I want to do it myself, and I don't mind spending some money for a tool to do it, but not $100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that cable cutters are not suitable (I have proper cable cutters).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, I'm guessing what is critical is getting a nice clean square cut (ie exactly perpendicular to the hose length).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is my best option to do it myself, if I don't have the expensive tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T23:26:32.677" Title="How do I cut hydraulic brake hose without expensive tools?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7649" CreationDate="2012-01-12T22:55:01.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Searching on Amazon (for &quot;Hydraulic Hose Cutter&quot;), I found a few under $20. But, the replacement blades look just like common utility knife razor blades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can rig of something to hold the cable square so you might be able to use a utility knife. I'd clamp, lightly so you don't crush, the hose to a scrap piece of wood and use edge as a visual guide and slice straight down with your utility knife. Cut it an inch long and if it doesn't seal up nicely, then splurge for one of the tools under $20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T22:55:01.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7649" CreationDate="2012-01-12T23:26:32.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a brand new razor blade, the type that you would use in a boxcutter or the type you would use in a scraper, as long as it's rigid. Lay the hose against a hard, flat, and clean surface and while holding the hose as close to where you want to make the cut as possible (without cutting your fingers off) push straight down on the blade while sliding it forward on the hose. Once it gets started it should go through pretty easily if the blade is new and sharp. The two important things when you're done are to ensure that you have a clean cut and that you have a perpendicular cut, ie you don't want to slice it at an angle or have a jagged cut. If the cut looks messy or isn't straight, move back a few millimeters and try again. It's not that hard to get right and it will save you a few bucks.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Personally, I would recommend against using cable cutters. You'll get a much better cut with a razor blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T23:26:32.677" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7647" CreationDate="2012-01-13T00:22:13.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nashbar  has sram 7 speed cassettes under $20 their part#is SR-PG730.They aren't the best they ever made but at the price you could buy two.I would splurge and get a new chain so you won't ruin your new cassette.Take all the money you were going to spend on up grades and save it towards a new bike or a later model used bike when this cassette wears out in 2000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T00:22:13.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7647" CreationDate="2012-01-13T03:38:07.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to buy NOS. 7 speed cassettes are still manufactured, we stock them and they start at $20 all the way up to $36 for a Shimano HG50 which comes in 12-28. Go with a matching Shimano HG50 chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you buy a new rear wheel, you cannot go above 7 speed. 7 speed freehub bodies are shorter than 8+ speed freehub bodies. An 8+ speed cassette is too wide to fit your freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T03:38:07.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2012-01-13T04:07:02.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try put your seatpost / saddle on the vise ( reverse the bike ) then rotate the frame for pulling out the seatpost, put WD-40 or other lubricant for before you do it....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T04:07:02.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7656" CreationDate="2012-01-13T08:19:29.260" Score="2" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can FSA GOSSAMER ROAD CRANKSET be used together with BB7800 Dura Ace from Shimano?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T19:22:43.377" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T19:22:43.377" Title="FSA GOSSAMER ROAD CRANKSET with BB7800?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7655" CreationDate="2012-01-13T08:36:04.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. Although they appear to fit together, they're &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; different. I made this mistake once (except the other way round - shimano chainset in FSA BB) and knackered the BB very quickly. FSA BBs are pretty cheap and easy to get hold of though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T08:36:04.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6959" CreationDate="2012-01-13T08:48:15.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;possible if you will change the steerer (1 1/4&quot;)of the new fork into 1&quot; and you will just use spacers for it to get fit.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3245" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T08:48:15.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-13T11:42:55.210" Score="5" ViewCount="10824" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably, another debatable question from my side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When carrying items while riding, like water bottle, repair kits, pumps, or other stuffs that you might need, What is the best option.... to carry them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On your &lt;strong&gt;cycle&lt;/strong&gt; at saddle bag, handlebar bags, or pannier bags or etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or, On &lt;strong&gt;backpacks&lt;/strong&gt;, like hydrant pack, or simple travel pack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While loading on cycle, it will increase the weight of the bike, thus affect a lot of things, like speed, traction, more reactive on corners. Like while using pannier bags.. it will increase rear weight, making it difficult on uphill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also while loading on backpack, it will tire you down fast if its a big load, decreases your flexibility, agility &amp;amp; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is right way to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of ride I generally, go to are commuting, mountain biking, &amp;amp; trailing. And the items I generally carry are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Commuting:&lt;/code&gt; Water bottle(x2), Laptop (17&quot;), books, copies, repair kits, hand pump, few other accessories.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;Mountain Biking &amp;amp; Trailing:&lt;/code&gt; Water bottle(x2), repair kits, extra tubes, hand pumps, candybars &amp;amp; few other accessories &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T00:33:43.843" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T18:22:50.980" Title="Load your bag or Load your bike?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="507" CreationDate="2012-01-13T11:51:59.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also commute 20 miles in a day. I have ran into your problem more than once. However I have a small trick to stay on safe side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a back bag, which has separate pockets for water bottle on two sides. &#xA;I have two bottles, One I always keep on the bag, and never take it off unless I am refilling my actual water bottle. Another I keep at the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I get off the bike, i put that bottle on my bag, and when i am riding again, i put in back on the bike. This way, even if forget about the bottle, it will remain in my backpack, which I hardly forget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case I forget to refill, I will have a extra bottle, from which I can refill the bike. Or in the worst case, if i left/lost my bike's bottle somewhere I already have a bottle at my bag, which can handle the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T11:51:59.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7658" CreationDate="2012-01-13T12:01:50.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preference is to load the bag.  I say this since I ride multiple bikes and like to have one toolkit, rather than multiple kits.  And often, rather than load a bag, I stick the kit in a jersey pocket.  This approach reduces the stuff on the bike itself, which also another preference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3246" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T12:01:50.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14290" CreationDate="2012-01-13T12:29:11.047" Score="70" ViewCount="59103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having a look at the average speeds of the winner of the Tour de France over the years on &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeraceinfo.com/tdf/tdfstats.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;. To help things along I put the data into LibreOffice and produced a plot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fi3QO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tour de France average speeds&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put on the chart where clipless pedals came in, and I suppose the switch to carbon framed bicycles came in a few years after that (not sure exactly when). What really struck me though was that the average speeds really haven't changed much, especially in the last few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a big jump in the late 80's/early 90's, some of which could be attributed to the doping practices of the time, but not all of it. Doping of some form or another has been going on since the beginning of the TdF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems really odd to me that given:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;improved training&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;improved nutrition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;improved technology&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there is only roughly a 10% increase in speed since the 1960s and virtually none in the last decade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are we being defrauded by companies trying to sell us all sorts of products (carbon whatnots and sugary goo!)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUzl1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gastone Nencini (1960)&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kCsKS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cadel Evans (2011)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastEditorUserId="3052" LastEditDate="2012-01-13T13:47:28.563" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T16:29:47.717" Title="Why aren't Tour de France riders going any faster?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;history&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="27" CommentCount="20" FavoriteCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7658" CreationDate="2012-01-13T12:36:08.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether you put the weight in a backpack or a pannier, it's still weight on the bike -- makes no difference in the effort needed to move the bike (other than the differences in wind resistance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, for better handling, it's best to keep weight as low on the bike as possible.  And whether distributed front or rear makes little difference on (non-technical) uphills (though some tourists feel that having weight in front panniers actually improves stability on downhills and rough roads, so long as the weight is well-secured and can't flop around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[On reflection, I can see that a loaded backpack might noticeably improve climbing or accelerating while standing, since the backpack weight would place more weight on the pedals.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In warm weather or for long rides, the backpack inhibits cooling and collects sweat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a major convenience factor to the backpack in that you can easily take the stuff with you when you dismount the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that you should never put any substantial weight in a handlebar bag -- they are universally too poorly secured and flop around, impairing handling.  Weight in a seat bag should be well-secured with cinch straps around the bulk of the bag.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-01-13T12:58:29.823" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T12:58:29.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-13T13:15:59.957" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few &quot;pseudo-facts&quot; I think might be at play in this graphic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned 10% of increase, say from 35km/h to 40km/h average speed. That is a VERY significant increase. Anyone well trained can sustain 35km/h average for some time even in a mountain bike, but FORTY km/h is MUCH HARDER to sustain, and that's because aerodynamic drag is proportional to the SQUARE of speed. So, 35 squared is 1225. 40 squared is 1600. The effort, then increases more than THIRTY per cent! (I am always startled with this...).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also, like Daniel R Hicks mentioned, despite training and technology, our genes are still the same. Muscle power and speed, as well as cardio, lungs, blood vessels and biomechanics are preset within a range that cannot be easily changed. I wonder what would happen if they built a bike for horses to ride (biker is faster than horse (?) which is faster than human on foot - what about a horse on a bike?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, even with modern bikes being so light and efficient, older bikes (say, from 70's to the present) are already light and efficient. If you take a 15kg bike and make it half the weight, it's 7kg less. For a biker with 70kg, that is 10% of total weight. But then I wonder again: if you always train with a heavy bike, do you get stronger than a guy who trains with a featherlight bike? Do modern athletes train with heavy bikes in order to be stronger, and take advantage of this when they have the featherlight bike during the race?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well that's what comes to my mind, I'm eager to hear more competent and knowledge-based answers (not these somewhat wild guesses).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T13:15:59.957" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7658" CreationDate="2012-01-13T13:26:15.373" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I divide between two extremes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding long distance with lots of stuff on good pavement: load the bike;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding short distance with not so much stuff and/or on rough road: load the back;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are some additional considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the road is so harsh you must stand up to manoeuver (off-road, back-country, XC, etc.), load yourself. The bike suffers less (tires specially), and you can avoid falling from lost control;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have lots of gear and proper tires, loading the bike help to ride more stable and comfortable, since the cushioning effect of the tires (suspension) is enhanced by the added bicycle mass;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you ride short, loading back is much more pratical. But if you are touring, loading the back becomes a huge source of discomfort and even health problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire choice is important, also. On a skinny-tire road bike, I would not feel safe or comfortable to put a rear rack in nothing but the smoothest of paved roads. In the other hand, I have already made loaded touring in roads that looked like the moon surface. How much is too skinny, or fat enough, depends on each person/bicycle/road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the answer is &quot;it depends&quot;, but I think the three (four?) parameters mentioned here are the most important about &quot;what&quot; it depends on, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T13:26:15.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-13T13:43:29.723" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tour de France is primarily an endurance event, where team strategy is more important than outright speed.  In addition there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Racing_bicycle#UCI_rules&quot;&gt;UCI rules for racing bicycles&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingtechblog.com/2010/03/26/is-it-time-to-lower-the-uci-minimum-bike-weight-limit/&quot;&gt;This includes a 6.8kg weight restriction that has been in place since 2000&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to compare outright speeds it would be more interesting to look at how the average speed of the time trial stages has changed over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3175" LastEditorUserId="3046" LastEditDate="2012-01-15T16:05:31.767" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T16:05:31.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7489" CreationDate="2012-01-13T14:44:18.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://glowinc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://glowinc.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make the brightest paint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2506" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T14:44:18.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-13T15:06:42.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the information others have replied with, the numbers provided show a sustained 0.4% growth rate over 109 years. Over the last ten years, we should expect a 5% expected growth in output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5% isn't actually that large a jump; especially when you consider the variability of the data. It's not out of the realm of possibility that unrelated external factors have kept speeds from increasing. In fact, you'll notice on that graph that from the mid 1950s to the early 1980s (around a 25 year span) growth was flat as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of those external factors is likely stricter controls on doping. Given that there's been a significant crackdown in the past decade, it's actually quite astonishing that we've managed to break even. A simplistic way of looking at it is that availing yourself of the last decade's worth of advances in technology and nutrition confers upon you the same advantages that (some significant amount of) doping would have given you ten years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2012-01-13T15:13:42.187" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T15:13:42.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-13T15:35:38.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amongst the other factors, the TDF is an outdoor event and therefore subject to climate change. A few kph change in average wind speeds can cause a few kph difference in the achieved average speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newscientist.com/article/dn20284-worlds-wind-and-waves-have-been-rising-for-decades.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;It is known that wind speeds have been rising by 5-10% over the last quarter-century&lt;/a&gt; (thanks to Colin Pickard for the link), and France's climate is dominated by westerly winds from the Atlantic. Therefore, the generally faster winds on the Atlantic can be expected to cause faster winds in France and therefore more wind resistance for the cyclists, slowing an upward trend in man and material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2353" LastEditorUserId="2353" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T16:59:11.823" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T16:59:11.823" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-13T16:02:12.807" Score="14" ViewCount="6452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed some knee pain arising recently from cycling. a throbbing around and below the kneecap, while I sit at my desk during work. To try and counteract this I've been increasing the height of my seat. This has gotten to the point where my hips slightly rock during cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there is a few things I do that do not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a fixie: I've tried taking the starts and stops slower in order to minimise tension in my knees. Also I always use the front brake to slow down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What steps can be taken to eliminate knee pain. It's causing some concern considering my daily cycle is &amp;lt;15mins of urban cycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T03:27:11.533" Title="How to avoid knee pain when cycling" Tags="&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7669" CreationDate="2012-01-13T16:03:50.180" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lower your gear ratio. Spinning is winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T16:03:50.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-13T16:10:24.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, The TdF is an endurance race.  It's not about all out speed.  For a better idea of how bike technology has increased, check out the list of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hour_record#Hour_records_and_holders_.28Male.29&quot;&gt;Hour record holders&lt;/a&gt;.  This is done on an indoor velodrome, with no other people on the track to the person can't draft.  The premise is to ride as far as you can in a single hour.  The original record listed was only 26 KM, In 1993 the record was only 52 KM.  Now the current hour record is 91 KM.  That's quite a jump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T16:10:24.383" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7669" CreationDate="2012-01-13T17:38:03.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seek professional medical advice, either a physiotherapist or a sports doctor. Also, have your bike fit checked (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3549/bike-fitting-experiences&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling in too high a gear, particularly uphill is a pretty good way to hurt your knees, so you may want to get a bike with multiple gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T17:38:03.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7669" CreationDate="2012-01-13T18:18:04.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, three points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't ride a fixie.  (Not what you wanted to hear.)  The knee is the weakest part of the human body, and riding in too high of a gear puts enormous stress on it.  A fixie has you riding in the wrong gear most of the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise your seat.  (Though it sounds like you've done this.)  Having your seat too low amplifies the stress on the knee.  The seat should be as high as reasonably possible without causing you to slip side-to-side as you pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use toe clips.  I don't know exactly why, but toe clips help relieve stress on the knee.  (And it may be that old-fashioned strap-type clips are better than &quot;clipless&quot;, as they don't stress the knee sideways, and don't require knee stress to unclip.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visit a orthopedist or at least a medically-qualified physical therapist to find out which variety of knee pain you're experiencing (there are several different knee pain syndromes) and what therapy you should use for it.  Very often the right exercises (eg, straight leg lifts) can make a world of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T18:18:04.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-13T18:27:58.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides all technical aspects race speed is also a question of racing strategy. As long as there is no escape group no team might feel responsible for making pace, so the peleton might ride &quot;slowly&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once there's an escape group the peleton might decide to keep some distance so they can catch up later, while the escapers might safe energy for a final sprint and just keep &quot;enough&quot; distance to the peleton. A relatively new technology - radio for riders - makes this possible. Nowadays there's quite some control and decision via radio being made ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the speed of TdF riders I'd look at the time from time trials or specific mountain climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T18:27:58.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7669" CreationDate="2012-01-13T19:30:47.220" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a physician (not practicing anymore), a biker, and an office worker. And I ride fixie. And I sometimes have knee discomfort. So, my few cents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on HOW YOU SIT DURING WORK, specially how you rest your legs/feet, your knee might be twisted for a long time (hours a day). Watch yourself if it is happening or not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a rest on the fixie. I noticed it is only nice when you are &quot;energized&quot;. Sometimes we are a bit tired or &quot;low mood&quot;. These are not good times to ride fixed, I think. So, take an abundantly-geared beater or something, until you get better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't get the rest, try not to accelerate or decelerate too fast. If you ride in traffic, give up riding faster than motor vehicles, for a while, until your knee gets better. I think speed is not so important (spinning is winning, Stephen said), but bursts of acceleration or deceleration put a stress on the knees.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch yourself while pedalling. If you notice some movements reproduce the pain you feel, change your habit, avoid them as much as you can. But try to keep efficient. If you have to create an anti-natural position so as not to feel pain, things are starting to get ominous!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other factor: you mentioned your cycle is short, less than 15min (so is mine). I found this to be a problem, because you always ride &quot;cold&quot;. Perhaps you could warm-up and stretch, at home (learn how to stretch thigh and calf properly, first), or even take a LONGER way to work, so you can ride lightly for more time, thus pumping some nutrients inside your joints' tissues instead of just hammering'em cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, seeing a doctor (preferrably specialized in sports medicine) and doing some physical therapy is always something to consider. But don't think that is more important than self-observation, self-knowledge and self-control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T19:30:47.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7697" CreationDate="2012-01-13T19:47:09.163" Score="3" ViewCount="2104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find a 130 &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bcd&lt;/a&gt; single speed chainring with 58 or 60 teeth? I am attempting to setup a goldsprints setup using a very large front ring and a small rear freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2012-09-19T16:16:31.543" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T16:30:48.463" Title="Where can I find a 130 bcd single speed chainring with 58 or 60 teeth?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7712" CreationDate="2012-01-13T19:58:27.397" Score="2" ViewCount="994" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will an ACS 13T X 3/32 Crossfire freewheel fit an All-City Standard 130mm fixed/free Hub?   I am attempting to setup a goldsprints setup using a very large front ring and a small rear freewheel. I'm not sure whether a freewheel this small will thread on to these hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T20:53:27.307" Title="Will an ACS 13T X 3/32 Crossfire freewheel fit an All-City Standard 130mm Hub?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7677" CreationDate="2012-01-13T23:03:19.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Freewheels that small use a smaller diameter thread intended for BMX hubs. The smallest freewheel you're going to find for that hub is a 15T. I believe ACS makes one in 15T called Claws that fits a standard hub. Cheap and it works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T23:03:19.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7669" CreationDate="2012-01-14T03:27:11.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might also help to work out your leg muscles in the gym. There are many muscles that are useful that aren't easily trained just on the bike. Stabilizer muscles and quads. On the topic of fixed gear, there is a reason the top track guys are all hitting the gym. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2506" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T03:27:11.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7658" CreationDate="2012-01-14T10:08:21.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has been implied, it depends. I rode from Pittsburgh to DC on the GAP and C&amp;amp;O this past summer. On my touring bike, with 700x32 tires as much as possible was in front and rear panniers mounted as low as possible. The bike was stable and I was comfortable with a fanny pack when off the bike for meals, etc. When I commute to work I have a bike messenger bag I can use when riding my touring bike or road bike (with 700x23 tires). If I have a lot to get to work I will use the touring bike with panniers, usually rear. I feel more comfortable, especially on a warm day, if I can put the weight directly on the bike and not on the bike through me. The mechanics of carrying weight on you make it more difficult to stay upright if you hit a bad bump or pot hole as you have to combat not just the weight of the bike but also the mass (notice I said mass, not weight) that wants to pull you from the vertical with a wider swing. I also notice the weight more when it is on me rather than on the bike directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T10:08:21.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2012-01-14T10:11:41.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to check Kraynick's Bike Shop in Pittsburgh, PA, Jerry's telephone number is (412) 621-6160. He probably has one in his multi-story shop or could know where to find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T10:11:41.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7632" CreationDate="2012-01-14T10:52:04.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of fitness and workout music collections available on iTunes, with some offering more than a 100 pieces of music for less than $10US. The concept is you put together your own program using available music. You can also put together your own training program using available commercial music for your own use. Pick songs that have a good solid beat. For an hour program choose an introductory piece of music or pieces that give a fast paced beat that can be used with a bike on a training stand or rollers with gears set for low resistance like you were on a flat road. Increase the resistance and vary the music to match your theoretical ride -- flats, hills up, hills down, etc. We have Spinning classes in the United States and they are available in other countries as well. I recommend you contact a Spinning studio or a fitness center that has Spinning classes and take some to see what can be done and how the music is integrated in a visualized ride. A good reputable Spinning class will have you warm up at the beginning of the class and cool down at the end with appropriate controlled stretching included. Spinning classes use stationary bikes designed for Spinning classes but it is possible to set a road bike up on rollers or stand to mimic the feel. To make my bike more stable I have a training stand on the back wheel and I took a training stand that was no longer functional (I wore it out) and modified it to fit the front wheel to provide a very stable platform that allows me to not just sit and ride but also to stand out of the saddle for a more complete training session. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T10:52:04.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-14T18:10:51.930" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a bike expert, but a computer programmer. The problem with this question is that there is no control to compare it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each year the TDF changes. They visit different parts of Europe, yes it is not 100% in France. This means you can't compare times between years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weather (not climate) is a concern. The temperature, wind and humidity will impact the performance of the athletes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regular Olympic events, like the 100m dash, there are standards for slope (0 degrees), the angle of the turns, and the condition of the track. In other events like bowling there are standards regarding the amount of oil on a lane. If anything is out of spec on the track or the lane they don't count the time as a record.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it is a team event, they even give bonus points for winning parts of stages, it is too complex to compare one year to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody compares the time for the Olympic downhill from one year to the next. Different mountain. Different weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3254" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T18:10:51.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-14T21:54:16.277" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5319/real-measurable-benefit-to-ceramic-bearings&quot;&gt;Real measurable benefit to ceramic bearings?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the different between ceramic and steel bearing ?&#xA;On the bottom bracket, what do you feel when you change into ceramic bearing ?&#xA;is it better then steel on BB7800 ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better power transfer ? if it's almost the same, not worth the money then ??&#xA;thanks a lot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T21:54:16.277" Title="What's the different between ceramic and steel bearing" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;ceramic&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-01-15T01:46:17.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7691" CreationDate="2012-01-15T02:16:32.360" Score="5" ViewCount="1667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to adjust my front gears and have also been following a video to adjust the high/low position of my front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I am having is that the low adjustment is no where near the 2mm distance that the chain to front derailleur should attain. The photos below also show the distance I can achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am wondering; &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Is the angle of my front derailleur is incorrect?&lt;/strong&gt; If so, what should I line it up with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have supplied a couple of photos. Please feel free to ask for additional info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo was taken while the the rear gear was on the biggest cog and the front gear was on the smallest cog. The chain is almost touching the front, pedal side of the derailleur and the chain is almost touching the derailleur at the back on the frame side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Trb4o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;View from the top - Click for larger&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Trb4o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4e145.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;View from the rear tyre forward. Click for larger&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjH5q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorUserId="1547" LastEditDate="2012-01-15T11:11:35.623" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T11:11:35.623" Title="Is my front derailleur angled straight?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7690" CreationDate="2012-01-15T02:57:32.023" Score="11" ViewCount="13048" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would sticking stickers on a helmet or painting them etc make a helmet less useful in a crash? Not knowing the science of helmets but perhaps stickers in the wrong place might make it not behave how the manufacturer intended during a crash (not breaking apart correctly)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3258" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T20:38:58.730" Title="Do stickers or paint compromise a helmet?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7687" CreationDate="2012-01-15T03:43:41.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally wouldn't worry about most stickers and decals.  Paint can be more of a problem, or if you used the wrong clear coating over a sticker/decal.  It's a question of whether the particular paint reacts with the plastic shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T03:43:41.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7687" CreationDate="2012-01-15T03:46:47.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the material in the paint doesn't cause the helmet material to degrade, it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While helmets do sometimes break apart in a crash, that's not a primary design requirement for them to keep your head protected. The two things a helmet does to keep your head safe during a crash are compress (to absorb the impact) and stay securely fastened to your head (so the foam stays between your head and the hard thing the helmet is hitting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaking apart is very much a secondary thing that simply sometimes happens after the primary purpose (compressing) happens to destroy the bits holding the helmet together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stickers are a hard raised item that will compromise the effectiveness of the helmet, however, since the protrusion could be driven through the foam in a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T03:46:47.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7687" CreationDate="2012-01-15T05:07:50.060" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the others, it doesn't seem like stickers should be a problem.  My helmet has stickers on the shell added by the manufacturer - clearly they were added make me ride faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint is a different story...  Polystyrene (aka Styrofoam) and certain other plastics can be damaged by the solvents used in paints, like some spray paints.  I believe petroleum solvents in particular can cause polystyrene to melt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polystyrene is sometimes used in crafts and model building, so a hobby store might stock some polystyrene safe paints or be able to recommend a brand of paint that'll be safe to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3021" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T12:06:48.223" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T12:06:48.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7686" CreationDate="2012-01-15T05:35:52.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That derailleur appears to be rotated so that the &quot;tail&quot; of the derailleur plate is too far from the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal is to have the inside plate be parallel to the chain rings, and have the bottom edge of the outer derailleur plate be between 1 and 2 mm above the top edge of the large chain ring teeth, while there is no cable attached, or it is shifted to the smallest front sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below is Park Tool's description of proper alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n7zpM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park tool image of derailleur alignment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T05:35:52.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-15T08:10:13.320" Score="6" ViewCount="2198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently discovered that the adjustable sealed bearing cartridges on my rear hub failed prematurely because one of the &quot;cones&quot; (cartridge shoulder nuts) had somehow tightened itself, putting undue pressure on the bearings. While I was warned that play will develop in hubs with adjustable cartridges as the bearings wear over time, I was not prepared for the &lt;em&gt;opposite&lt;/em&gt; problem and thus did not realize what was happening until it was too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the left-side cone nut did not seem flush against the spacers and locknut when I took the wheel out, my hypothesis is that &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/left.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;precession forces&lt;/a&gt; turned the cone nut clockwise as the hub turned counter-clockwise. This would have slowly moved the cone nut inward, away from the spacers/locknut. Searching &quot;precession cone nuts&quot; revealed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-632002.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a relevant thread&lt;/a&gt;, but I did not feel the conversation explored this topic fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there may be flaws in my hypothesis, it does seem like cone nut threading would, as on bottom brackets and pedals, be an important consideration in hub design. Furthermore, while I am aware that axle locknuts should be tightened to prevent cone nuts from loosening, both nuts use a standard right-hand thread. I cannot, therefore, imagine locknuts do a very good job of keeping cone nuts from moving &lt;em&gt;inward&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brings me to my question. &lt;strong&gt;Why are axle cone nuts on the left side of a bike not reverse threaded?&lt;/strong&gt; If this were the case, it would seem that precession forces would effectively keep cone nuts on &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; sides of the bike flush against their respective spacers and locknuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2869" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T13:22:57.687" Title="Why are axle cone nuts on the left side of a bike not reverse threaded?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5319" CreationDate="2012-01-15T08:43:56.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the current answers are very road specific, I'll give my take on it for the disciplines I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downhilling can benefit from them because they deform less under load, so in theory last longer.  But in practice BBs and hub bearings in this discipline tend to fail from corrosion brought on by failed seals, and although ceramic bearings won't rust - the race will.  The lower shock load isn't an issue due to long travel suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For trials it really depends on how much of weight-weeny/rich you are.  Ceramic bearings weigh far less than steel ones, so there's an instant benefit there.  But, ceramic bearings are much less resistant to shock load so they will shatter, and because trials bike's are rigid, this will happen quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T08:43:56.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7692" CreationDate="2012-01-15T13:22:57.687" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cone nuts have lock nuts.  The lock nuts (in an ideal world) prevent any motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as you observe, precession in either direction is bad on wheel bearings, so there's no real point in preferring self-tightening or self-loosening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In fact, having both the same direction means that any slight &quot;creep&quot; in one will tend to be canceled by the &quot;creep&quot; in the other.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that crank bearings and pedal threads are subjected to much more axial load (and more intermittent), and are thus more subject to creep.  Plus, cartridge crank bearing cups and pedal threads are self-limiting -- they will only tighten so far, regardless.  And often the crank cups do not have lock nuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T13:22:57.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7613" CreationDate="2012-01-15T16:38:16.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get 3'x3' squares of interlocking foam in packages of four that I put under my trainer.  I got mine at Canadian Tire and I imagine you'll find them at Home Depot or some similar home supply place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2118" LastEditorUserId="2118" LastEditDate="2012-01-15T16:52:44.573" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T16:52:44.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7687" CreationDate="2012-01-15T21:13:58.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the concerns with stickers and paint to a lesser degree is that it may mask or hide damage to the shell. Manufacturers reccomend inspection prior to every use and damage prior to or after application of a sticker could be hidden. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T21:13:58.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2012-01-16T00:17:18.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vuelta makes one, and you can &lt;A href=&quot;http://www.vueltausa.com/se-chain-ring-130mm-38-60t-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;buy it from them directly&lt;/a&gt;.  If you prefer to buy locally and immediately, I'd suggest looking for a local shop that specializes in recumbents or trikes.  Vuelta has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vueltausa.com/international-distributors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a few distributors&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;including KHS, so you should also be able to get many local bicycle shops to special-order you one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-09-19T16:30:48.463" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T16:30:48.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7616" CreationDate="2012-01-16T06:30:56.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best place I've found is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.henryjames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Henry James Bicycle supply&lt;/a&gt;. They make frame building jigs, and supply most boutique US based frame builders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ceeway.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ceeway&lt;/a&gt; is a good choice in Europe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some lugs may need to be custom cast, or modified, depending on the head tube and seat tube angles you choose. The fork rake will need to be fairly slack to match that style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T06:30:56.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7658" CreationDate="2012-01-16T11:31:29.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would always recommend panniers rather than a backpack as I think it's far safer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was at college I used a backpack when cycling, unfortunately I had a nasty accident slipping on autumn leaves and I landed awkwardly on my back as I couldn't get out of my toe straps quick enough! I twisted and bent my back quite badly as I landed on my backpack. It was agony for months and ever since then I have always used panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2707" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T11:31:29.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7616" CreationDate="2012-01-16T12:41:01.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No Roadster lugs are available for the independent or small shop. That is why I had to make them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roadster lugs are made [India, China, Taiwan and of course in the Netherlands], it is just that distributors like Nova and Ceeway do not buy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it amusing about the comment about TIG welding lugs. Why lug anything really...it is just for looks. Stamped lugs are &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;welded&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; together :)  Only the expensive racing lugs are cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you best bet is to try and find them in India or Taiwan and ask for a sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3267" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T12:41:01.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7719" CreationDate="2012-01-16T15:02:52.093" Score="1" ViewCount="1308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in &lt;strong&gt;Bulgaria&lt;/strong&gt; and I am looking for suggestions for budget mountain bike with opportunities for upgrade, &lt;strong&gt;budget 400-500$&lt;/strong&gt; . I am planning to travel from home to work (dayly) and to take part in competitions like 100 km (about 63 miles) mountain lap called the &quot;The 100km Vitosha Lap&quot; and to have occasional drifts in the mountain .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My choice so for goes for Drag Ontario Pro. I have heard good things about Sprint Apolon too, but I am not so impressed. 2nd hand RAM or Scott are also an options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I am interested to hear suggestions and if you don't know what to recommend me in that price range advices what I should be looking for when buying a bike with options for later upgrade.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3228" LastEditorUserId="3228" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T10:16:35.017" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T10:03:04.273" Title="Suggestions for budget mountain bike with opportunities for upgrade" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-16T17:13:20.263" Score="8" ViewCount="18190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a 2011 Trek Navigator 1 with 7-speed derailleur.  Purchased in August of 2011, I've tried to ride as often as possible.  My longest rides have been approximately 12 miles in length.  I've equipped the bike with SKS fenders and a rear rack.  I'm getting to the point where I'd like to start taking longer rides, maybe 10 or miles each way.  Is this sort of riding unfeasible on a &quot;comfort&quot; bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3270" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T19:32:56.197" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T18:38:43.767" Title="What is the longest reasonable distance one may expect to ride on a comfort bike?" Tags="&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7703" CreationDate="2012-01-16T17:36:58.370" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would argue that there is no limitation on distance the biggest limitation you will have will be on: Speed and Comfort over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Speed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comfort bikes arn't made to go fast.  They are designed to be ridden around in a leisurely way.  Variables limiting speed include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerodynamics - you are sitting as upright as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;% of your speed/strength you can use while pedaling - Mountain bikes are designed so that the rider has good control and can soak up bumps.  Road bikes are designed to be maximally aerodynamic and to allow the rider to use their leg muscles effectively.  Comfort bikes are designed so that you will be comfortable sitting on the seat.  I have always found that when riding a comfort bike I cannot use my muscles nearly as effectively.  On a road or mountain bike it is much easier to use your upper body to provide leverage to your legs out of the saddle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight - shouldn't have an effect on a constant speed but when speeding up you will notice the weight of your bike.  You will also notice the extra weight when climbing.  In all other situation weight shouldn't make any difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Comfort over time&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bikes and to a lesser extent mountain bikes are made to be comfortable for long period of time for more dedicated riders.  Just looking at the seat as a case study we find: wide seats are comfortable immediately but after sitting on it for an extended period of time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will experience chaffing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will possibly need to rock your hips to reach around the seat to push the pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cannot use your entire body properly which may lead to injured muscles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cannot soak up bumps at all which may lead to a sore/stiff back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you goal is to cover distance get a new bike.  You will go double your distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your goal is to get a good workout and you are not experiencing discomfort keep your current bike and go further.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T20:16:11.847" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-16T18:27:01.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also worthy of note, the riders are still human - maybe they &lt;em&gt;SEEM&lt;/em&gt; super human, but i promise they are still human. So at the end of the day, humans have limits, TDF shows this every year in the highlights and low light reels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T18:27:01.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7701" CreationDate="2012-01-16T18:46:55.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Later upgrade means mostly &quot;default&quot; component sizes most common on medium-quality bikes and good quality bikes, but often not found in very cheap supermarket bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette cogset (not threaded one);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick release axles and seatpost;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vertical dropouts with separate derailer hanger;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three-piece crankset;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oversize head tube;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threaded bottle cage holes in the frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bike with these features, you will always be able to upgrade to &quot;modern&quot; mountain bike components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T18:46:55.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7703" CreationDate="2012-01-16T19:03:19.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My longest rides have been approximately 12 miles in length. I've equipped the bike with SKS fenders and a rear rack. I'm getting to the point where I'd like to start taking longer rides, maybe 10 or miles each way. Is this sort of riding unfeasible on a &quot;comfort&quot; bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A twenty mile ride is definitely not unfeasible based on what you describe. You're already doing 12 miles, so adding 8 more shouldn't be a problem, depending on your fitness level and the terrain. (Terrain will be a big factor. A &quot;reasonable distance&quot; on flat terrain may very well be &quot;unreasonable&quot; on very hilly terrain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotally speaking... I know several people who regularly ride 20 to 50 miles on comfort bikes. I also know a few who would find 10 miles challenging. The &quot;longest reasonable&quot; distance is a bit subjective, but based on the description of your goal, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And like heltonbiker mentioned, you may want to use narrower tires and possibly swap out your seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest experimentation. Gradually add distance and time on the bike, and your body will let you know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A quick note... I was just in the local bike shop at lunch picking up a tube and took a look at &quot;comfort&quot; bikes. My impression is that if I wanted to ride a &quot;comfort&quot; bike for relatively long distances... I would change the seat to something more like a road bike seat. The stock seats look fine for maybe 2 or 3 hours, but beyond that, I'd really want a skinnier seat. And depending on the stock tires, I might want to change those as well.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T20:54:47.827" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T20:54:47.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7709" CreationDate="2012-01-16T19:41:04.297" Score="9" ViewCount="1258" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling home in the dark a car pulled across me to enter a super market car park. Apparently the car that let him cross didn't remove their full beam so he didn't see me in the cycle lane and I hit the side of him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the initial shock I'm basically OK. Hip &amp;amp; shoulder feels a little bruised but thats about it from what I can tell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike for the most part from what I can see also seems mostly OK apart the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We exchanged details etc a witness also stopped and gave me her details. And I had a friend come and pick me up as I was a little shocked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The driver admitted fault and seemed genuinely concerned and offered to pay for damage to the bike, it sounded like he was a cyclist himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not planning on any injury claims as apart from a bruised/sore hip and shoulder for a few days I reckon I'll survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is basically my workhorse for commuting and everything in between so the quickest possible turnaround with the least path of resistance to having it fixed would be the most ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just take my bike to a local shop have them look it over and quote me then contact the driver, I may need to pay for it to be inspected first? Or should I go via their insurance? How fast do I need to act etc. I probably won't be able to get to a bicycle store before Friday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I tried to add a photo of the handlebars but apparently I need 10 points first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3271" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T19:57:34.730" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T11:11:03.693" Title="After an accident, what next?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7708" CreationDate="2012-01-16T19:50:53.137" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Report it to his insurance company first. Period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for whatever reason the driver decides to renege on his admittance of fault and declines to pay damages to your bike, you're basically screwed if you're past the insurance company's reporting threshold. However, do not sign &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; paperwork the insurance company asks you to (which may limit their liability or waive some of your rights) and inform them that you're having a bicycle shop prepare a quote for damages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've contacted the driver's insurance company, take your bicycle to the nearest shop and have them fully inspect the bike and quote you for any necessary repairs. Ask them to be thorough and include the cost of absolutely everything that may have been damaged in the crash: wheel re-truing, handlebar tape rewrapping, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the bike shop gives you a quote, give it to the person who hit you. If he reimburses you, then you're done. If not, you'll have to work through their insurance company. It's probably best at that point to contact your own insurance company and see what steps they will take to help you receive payment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T19:50:53.137" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7708" CreationDate="2012-01-16T19:52:59.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should probably contact your own insurance company (let your insurance company and the driver's fight it out) and find out how they want you to handle it from here. The bike wouldn't seem to be as much of a time issue (from an insurance standpoint) but I'd also get thee to the bike store as quickly as possible; if they have to order stuff it'll take time and that's time you're not commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T19:52:59.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7701" CreationDate="2012-01-16T19:54:00.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also want to consider a used bike - you'll be able to get more for your money and if / when stuff wears out you can upgrade it as you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T19:54:00.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7677" CreationDate="2012-01-16T20:53:27.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, only 16T through 22T ACS freewheels use english threading found on the all city hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T20:53:27.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7708" CreationDate="2012-01-16T21:30:40.270" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;John Duggan wrote &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclealliance.org/safety/crash%20article%20by%20John%20Duggan%20for%20July.pdf&quot;&gt;an excellent checklist&lt;/a&gt; for what to do after a bike/car crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you've already handled the first part pretty well, but here are the steps he advises:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Do get the necessary medical treatment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Do have your bike thoroughly inspected by a reputable bike shop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Do take photographs of the accident scene, your injuries, your bike  and all other involved vehicles (your new camera phone may come in handy!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Do not minimize your injuries or your bike damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Do not give a statement to the vehicle driver’s insurance without first consulting with an attorney.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Do not rush into any settlement until you know the full extent of your injuries and bike damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say that in my experience with an accident like yours, an attorney (like John Duggan, so he's a little biased) will not get directly involved since the stakes are quite low, but it can be handy to have one on hand if the insurance company decides to be difficult. They can answer legal questions applicable in your jurisdiction that the internet can't.  And remember, just because the driver admitted fault to you at the scene does not mean they will admit fault to their insurance agency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also advise going to the doctor and getting looked over just in case you do have some more serious injuries.  This &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; ultimately be paid for by their insurance (your insurance will likely ask you if any other insurance is billable for this), including any lost wages if you need to miss work and a pain and suffering payout (typically 3x medical bills).  If your collision was anything like mine, be prepared to wake up stiff and sore for a couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John also points out that the claim will cover damage to not only your bike but to any of your accessories or clothing - bag, gloves, pants, lights.  Make sure all of these things are undamaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your time here - you do not want to accept a settlement from their insurance and then subsequently discover belatedly that your frame is cracked and you've got a torn ligament that will require surgery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T21:30:40.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-16T22:07:26.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A factor?&#xA;The amount of &quot;road furniture&quot; has increased in the last 15 years, to shape road behavior for automobiles.  For a single bike this won't be much of an effect, but for the peloton...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3273" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T22:07:26.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7658" CreationDate="2012-01-16T23:28:25.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both actually. It depends on the nature of the ride and which bike I'm riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commuting on the commuter bike - Water bottles in the bottle cages. Repair kit in a seat bag. Work stuff in the pannier(s); but at times a pack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road bike ride on the road bike - Water bottles in the bottle cages. Repair kit in a seat bag. Food and misc in the jersey pocket. And in hot weather and/or in remote areas, sometimes additional water in a Camelback Razor hydration pack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick errands on either bike - Usually a backpack or messenger bag. Especially if I'm getting on and off the bike a lot and don't want to deal with the panniers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grocery shopping on the commuter bike - Pannier(s) and at times a backpack as well for an extra big load. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mtn biking on trails - Water bottles in the bottle cages. Repair kit in a seat bag. Other stuff in a pack and/or jersey pockets. (Panniers are too liable to catch on obstructions.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's best? Whatever combination works for the trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T23:28:25.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7703" CreationDate="2012-01-17T03:24:53.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the first rides I did with my (now) wife was a 60 mile course, which she rode on a Mountain bike. It was easy to know she was with me, because the wide knobby tires made enough noise to hear from a distance. The rolling resistance had to be sky high. She wasn't happy with the ride, but she finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that ride we immediately shopped for a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is that it's not the bike that is the limitation, it's you in combination with the bike. If it's not working out you'll know pretty quickly, and the attempt won't kill you. Try it and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3276" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T03:24:53.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7701" CreationDate="2012-01-17T09:56:41.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assuming a new bike, look at the Scott Aspect 30, 20, or 10, depending on your budget.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They all use the same frame, and the only difference is components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you buy a bike with the intent to upgrade, realize you will spend far more long term, than if you bought your bike ready built with the same components you upgraded to. I understand why it can be better to do it that way to break up the cost, but it does cost a lot more money overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would make sure you buy a bike with good wheels, a good frame, and a good fork. Those parts are astronomically more expensive to upgrade to than to buy on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your budget is fairly low, so if you have the option, save a bit more before you buy. A budget of $800-1000 is more appropriate if you can afford to make it work. It allows the wheels and fork to be quality enough that upgrading the other components becomes worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you can make that budget work, then look at the Scott Scale line.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like and recommend Scott bikes for you because they are readily available in Europe, and they make high quality bikes at a reasonable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this is helpful to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T10:03:04.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2012-01-17T15:26:57.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got to suggest just a simple ziplock type of bag, put you phone in, zip it up and put it in your jersey pocket, so your not distracted. It is waterproof and I'll even start my Strava bike app to record my ride. No worries about it jiggling loose off the bike, or getting wet. You can get a box of these pretty cheap too! I'll get more than a few rides per bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8RzZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;iPhone in a Ziploc&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T15:26:57.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7703" CreationDate="2012-01-17T16:08:58.237" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's totally reasonable to ride such distances (and even much longer) on a Navigator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2003 Navigator back in Poland. It was my &quot;return to cycling as an adult&quot; bike. I've done many 30+ mile rides on it in rolling terrain. I don't think it would be much fun on a super hilly ride (due mostly to the bike's heft) but even that is doable. As people have mentioned, you can't be in a hurry -- the bike is not meant to go fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride regularly, increase your mileage slowly (10% per week is an oft-quoted figure) and enjoy your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T16:08:58.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-17T18:15:22.507" Score="16" ViewCount="11916" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Fat or Skinny?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the arguments are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fat: You can float on top of the snow and you don-t have to go through it.  You have a larger contact patch with the ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skinny: Will find it's way through the snow to find some pavement to grab onto.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Studded: Works great on ice but has no effect on snow/slush/other stuff.  (Note never tried studded tires so just speculating).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conditions of Interest&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in traction on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleared city streets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncleared city streets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/37rDj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncleared city streets where cars have gone through and made deep ruts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8BuQ3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N7Y2s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slush that has re-frozen into deep ruts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ice patches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: All pictures are take from google images.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a short commute through part of Ottawa and run lots of erands on my bike.  When it is snowing and when the roads don't look good I have several routes that are only slow residential streets so I can stay away from people yacking on their phones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like to start doing some winter trail riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theweathernetwork.com/statistics/summary/cl6105976/caon0512&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the historical weather data for Ottawa.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T05:35:02.010" Title="Fat or Skinny Tires for Winter Riding?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7722" CreationDate="2012-01-17T19:20:25.410" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a country which doesn't have snow, but have recently gone to Europe (Czech Republic), where I could &quot;understand&quot; a bit how these things work. Also, my background is with mountainbike on any sort of offroad terrain, including mud and beach sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I think your most concern would be the grooves/ruts from refrozen snow on roads, much similar to sun-baked mud on some fire-road tracks, but much more slippery, and flotation, much similar to riding on loose gravel or sand (I am speculating a bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see a lot of studded tires are also slightly pending to the knobby-fatty end of spectrum. With wider tires (no need to be super-wide), you can use lower tire pressures to float better and yet don't get pinch flats. Also, with wide AND knobby tires, you can much more safely ride diagonally through ruts without the danger of your front wheel getting caught and you fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that's my (also a bit speculative) impressions about effects of tire width, tread-pattern and inflation pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T19:20:25.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7722" CreationDate="2012-01-17T19:26:13.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you go take a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/equipment.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Icebike&lt;/a&gt; equipment page for some advice and suggestions. Personally, living in Ottawa I would use the fat tires and put some studs on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2118" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T19:26:13.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7722" CreationDate="2012-01-17T20:00:39.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't had as many chances to test this year, but studded tires work great on ice. If you get some with a tread pattern that can handle snow, you can ride in any winter condition. I've mostly had experience with studs in car ruts, and I have no problem getting out of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3284" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T20:00:39.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7748" CreationDate="2012-01-17T20:44:14.230" Score="2" ViewCount="1402" Body="&lt;p&gt;Halfway through my third winter my Lumotec IQ Fly Senso Plus (powered by a SON hub-generator) headlight has suddenly started fluctuating, after I returned from Christmas holidays. While riding in the dark (and darkness lasts 20/24 hours here this time of the year), my light semi-regularly switches from bright to faint and back to bright. The faint light looks like the standlight, so very much less than the bright light. I ride in the dark around 5 hours/week during around 5 months, so with around less than 500 hours of dark riding, the LEDs should still be fine — or do LEDs degrade much more quickly in the cold (&amp;lt;-20°C)? My own hypothesis would be as mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclebanter.com/archive/index.php/t-74694.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on this forum&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The flickering of the previous light could have been caused by&#xA;  adjusting the light when it has been firmly screwed down. This could&#xA;  cause the contact lip to turn in the housing and loose contact with&#xA;  the bulb. If this happens bend the lip forward again, and ease the&#xA;  mounting bolt a bit before readjusting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I'm not sure if it applies to my model, I don't know what lip to bend forward and how. I've already firmly attached the plugs on the outside, but maybe something got loose on the inside. As I'm a bit afraid of starting to disassembling things I can't assemble again, I'd need some advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What can I open, firmly attach, adjust, etc. in an attempt to tighten all connections that need to be tight, and how do I do this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other problems may cause the observed behaviour, and how would I handle those?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(also posted at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wereldfietser.nl/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;amp;t=16294&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Dutch forum&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T20:50:29.507" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T16:55:38.700" Title="Flickering light, Lumotec IQ Fly Senso Plus with SON hub-generator" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7597" CreationDate="2012-01-17T21:10:20.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For downtube shifters, I prefer to run as little housing as possible.  Your best bet is to look for some new old stock (NOS) vintage parts.  You need two bits: a chainstay-clamping housing stop for the short housing loop to the rear derailleur, and a downtube-clamping cable guide for making the cable bend at the bottom bracket up towards the front derailleur and back towards the rear derailleur along the chainstay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search of eBay shows both available pretty readily. Several manufacturers make the chainstay clamp, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=41CF6BBA-A251-4E0F-9D31-CF5EE09C46D0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Campagnolo 636&lt;/a&gt; is representative.  The best downtube clamp for both a front and rear derailleur looks to be the &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=E553FEF8-9918-4B47-B24E-AE4603CBCB14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Campagnolo 626/A double guide&lt;/a&gt;, though Huret, Suntour and a few others also made them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T21:10:20.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7722" CreationDate="2012-01-17T21:54:20.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you have a couple of different scenarios here:&#xA;- Road with (some degree of) ice&#xA;- Road with snow&#xA;- Trail (probably with even more snow)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a commuter, I guess you ride most in the fist scenario. At least, that's what I do. Riding in the winter isn't all that different from riding in the autumn/spring as long as you have studded tires. What makes a difference is how many studs you need. For very icy, uneven roads, more studs would be preferred, but the rolling resistance also increases a lot.&#xA;I use Schwalbe Marathon Winter which has 200 studs. I find it a good compromise between speed and grip. 300 tends to feel &quot;sticky&quot; on bare road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As heltonbiker says, a wheels ability to ride on different terrains can efficiently be altered by regulating the amount of tire pressure. For snow, use lower pressure for better grip, for good road conditions, use higher pressure for higher speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; has some really good reviews on different kinds of studded tires for different uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend Schwalbe Marathon Winter as a good, all round tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T21:54:20.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-17T23:41:03.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question makes a category mistake, I reckon. In that the Tour de France is not a competition done to finish an enormous amounts of kilometers as fast as possible -- as would be the case with a marathon for runners; where they athletes do indeed go faster and faster. The only aim the winner of the Tour has, is to be faster than the number two in the GC. And that difference hardly ever is as big as it could be, but far more a calculated difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Champions may want to win all the time. Champions, in cycling, are not necessary out to humiliate their opponents. Cycling is a professional sport. Cyclists meet each other all the time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What a better question would be, is to take not just the average speech of the winner, but the average speed of the first thirty finishers. No doubt that graph will be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3288" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T23:41:03.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-18T00:51:37.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are we being defrauded by companies trying to sell us all sorts of products (carbon whatnots and sugary goo!)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 1970's bike would really suck now, compared to my 2010 bike. And, the training advice I was given in the past was actually pretty stupid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So. Nope. We're not being defrauded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boys do what they do for making it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doping_at_the_Tour_de_France#Early_doping_in_cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Doping at the Tour de France (Wikipedia).&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why aren't Tour de France riders going any faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decreasing the bike weight and technology improvements have reached the current limit/rules for the Tour de France.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doping is not allowed. (Curtailed at least)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The biological possibility of the riders is now very near the limit of human biology. (A question: Are we at the limits?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="26813" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T19:16:20.030" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T19:16:20.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7722" CreationDate="2012-01-18T03:51:35.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my road bike and commuter (a cyclocross bike with fenders) in the winter. Here are my observations using different tires ranging from 700 x 23 slicks on the road bike to 700 x 35 studded winter tires on the cyclocross:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Skinny road tires are fine when the streets are plowed and salted (cleared city streets).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Skinny road bike tires are fine so long as there is no substantial accumulation of snow (greater than 1 inch) on the road and there is no ice. Problem when there is accumulation though is you can never be 100% sure if there is ice beneath.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Non studded fatter tires with knobs are better for loosely packed snow. Again this is assuming this is fresh snow with very slim chance of icing beneath. These tires are relatively fine for trail use too especially on fresh fallen snow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With slush I feel more comfortable going through with studded tires since I can never really be sure if there is ice on the slush/snow covered portion of the street (see image below) that I may be forced to negotiate due to vehicular traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to be careful especially early in the morning when water run-off from the curb or sidewalk freezes into ice on the roads. Other things to consider are that studded tires are noisier and heavier than regular tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can afford them, studded tires in my opinion are a worthy investment for the winter months. Some pics below of my rides with studded tires and a pic with road tires, respectively, over snow covered trails, over icy roads, over slushy roads and finally using skinny tires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jiYhW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Over snow covered trails:&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3fVS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Icy roads&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zr68.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slushy roads&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vff2U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Skinny tires in winter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T03:51:35.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7722" CreationDate="2012-01-18T05:35:02.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fat tires because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are riding in variable terrain. This is very similar to mountain biking. You want an all terrain tyre. Skinnies will cut through if the snow is loose and the ground is dry. If you have loose over packed or loose over ice you are still at a disadvantage. When you get refrozen slush you will get bucked hard. It's my impression that those who like skinnies are on generally well plowed roads and any snow on the road is new snow. If your local DOT doesn't care to do more than the bare minimum to keep the road open then you will want something a little more robust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For perspective I commute daily in Montana year round. In town our average annual snowfall is north of 100&quot;. In our town only major routes are plowed and they aren't plowed flawlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T05:35:02.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7742" CreationDate="2012-01-18T06:51:34.347" Score="4" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in biking [and always has been] and I want to start biking lot more for fun. It's been long time since I biked when I was in high school and I lost touch. At this point of time, my fitness is terrible and please don't ask about my stamina. I want to fix that by biking to my office which is close to 8 miles from my home. That's a long distance for me to start covering from the day one so I am planning to take it in phases. First, I want to start biking to nearest public transit [a mile] and keep increasing from there. I need some guidance so that I don't cause more trouble than good to myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is a reasonably priced bike that I can buy [first/second hand] that can make it easy for me to bike? I want to be able to bike on that in trails or parks as well so I am thinking of a mountain bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much distance should I start biking on day one and how fast should I increase that distance so that I can bike to my office without using any public transit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What sort of care should be taken to ride in cold weather [-1 C] and during night time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other suggestions would you like to give a new biker?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for taking time to read and respond!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3289" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T22:20:35.767" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T13:18:13.687" Title="Help a new biker with bad fitness to become a bike commuter" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-18T07:16:26.470" Score="5" ViewCount="2032" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting a fairly cheap bike built up for track racing at my local club, reusing my old carbon tubular road wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most track frames have a narrower hub spacing (120mm) versus road frames (130mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My options seem to be at present to stretch an old steel track frame to fit the road wheel, or to use a tri frame which should have the needed 130mm hub spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3290" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T13:48:18.653" Title="Is a tri frame suitable for track racing?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7737" CreationDate="2012-01-18T08:24:41.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any bike can be riden on the track but the question would be, does your tri frame have suitable drop outs for your fixed gear?  Yes folks have rigged vertical drop outs for fixed gear before but they usually are a lot of hassle to keep set up just right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as angles for the frame go, a track bike is going to be really close to a tri bike for geometry but you ride what makes you feel comfortable.&#xA;You could always just get your wheels re-laced with a narrower hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2017-09-08T13:48:18.653" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T13:48:18.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2012-01-18T08:41:49.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Price...whatever you feel is appropriate for you.  In Canada a good entry level bike for someone getting back into it would be anywhere from $600-$1000 new.  Go to your local bike shop and start asking questions.  Hybrids are nice as they are lighter than mtb and have narrower tires for less rolling resistance but are easier on your back than a road bike.  Most trails these days can handle thinner tires than a hybrid so don't be scared about that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Distance is what works for you.  Everyones different.  Rule of thumb is don't increase work load more than 10% per week.  Start taking your pulse every morning and when you see that your resting pulse rate is jumping up, that's an indicator you're pushing yourself a little too hard.  Ease up for a day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cold weather riding is about keeping your self warm, especially the joints.  Not much around your knees to keep them insulated so find something that will keep them safe from the wind.  Your local bike shop can steer you in the right direction for cold weather gear.&#xA;Lights are a BIG thing!  Try and get the brightest you can afford.  They have ones that will recharge via your USB port on your PC at work.  Also try and find a rear red light that hangs from your helmet.  It'll be higher and easier to see for cars.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Other suggestions...just have fun with it.  A goal of riding to/from work is great but try and remember why you loved to do it when you were a kid.  Go out for a ride after dinner just around the block.  Check out some of those side streets you've been driving past for the last few years but never been down.  Don't have a destination in mind just an idea of letting it take you where the road takes you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it works out for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T08:41:49.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2012-01-18T09:29:35.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Price is totally up to you - there's a bike out there for every budget. As with all things there are items that are worth spending money on. The great thing about a bike is that the components are, to a greater or lesser extent, interchangeable, so what you start with isn't necessarily what you need to keep for ever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One tip, though, is not to go too cheap. You are more likely to not enjoy the experience and you're more likely to stop - and if you've invested a decent amount of money you have the mental stick to keep poking you about making sure you haven't wasted it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of building up mileage what you've suggested is not a bad plan, although I would recommend perhaps trying the route out at a weekend first, that way you're under no time pressure and the roads are likely to be much quieter. You can head out and investigate the ways around - streets always look different from a bike: you can see more detail, perhaps understand some of the layouts and lane selection, perhaps where to get off and use road crossings, maybe smaller alternate side-streets that you've never previously noticed or needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single best piece of advice is to go into a local bike shop, ideally an independent, and talk to them about your options - they'll be able to talk about your bike and its upgrade path. They will also have good advice on routes, maybe even highlight local clubs or bike buddies who might go out riding with you to help advise and teach you the local ropes. There might well be local training courses and similar that the shop may know about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other questions that might help once you start out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1073/what-do-you-wish-someone-had-told-you-before-your-first-commute&quot;&gt;What do you wish someone had told you before your first commute?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2096/what-advanced-cycling-skills-are-useful-for-a-commuter-or-city-rider&quot;&gt;What advanced cycling skills are useful for a commuter or city rider?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3902/what-is-the-biggest-component-difference-between-a-cheap-road-bike-and-an-expens&quot;&gt;What is the biggest component difference between a cheap road bike and an expensive road bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/937/locking-your-bike-in-public-areas&quot;&gt;Locking your bike in public areas&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory&quot;&gt;What's your most useful cycle accessory?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/689/how-do-i-gear-up-a-bike-for-winter-riding&quot;&gt;How do I gear up a bike for winter riding?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T09:36:47.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2012-01-18T12:30:48.420" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others have answered other parts of your question satisfactorily, but I can't recommend Craigslist highly enough for purchasing your first bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find cheap used bikes anywhere from $50–$200. It doesn't have to be perfect — it just has to be in a reasonable state of repair. Don't spend $1,000 on a bike before you 1) know you're going to stick with cycling, and 2) know what you want out of a bike. Getting a cheap one off Craigslist lets you figure out both at a very low cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T12:30:48.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2012-01-18T12:47:56.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For 1-8 miles (and presumably reasonably flat terrain) you don't need anything special -- basically 2 wheels with tires on them and pedals to move them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest that you first check with friends for something you can have/borrow for free, or, failing that, get a used bike, preferably from a bike shop.  An inexpensive multi-speed &quot;mountain bike&quot; style bike (26&quot; tires, relatively flat handlebar, upright riding position -- vs the road-style bike with larger, narrower tires, &quot;drop&quot; handlebars, and bent-over riding position) is a good style to start with, but stay away from &quot;fancy&quot; bikes with rear suspension, et al -- just more weight and complexity you don't need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do find a borrowed bike (or perhaps a yard sale bike), take it to a bike shop to get it &quot;tuned up&quot;, since likely the derailers and brakes will be in need of adjustment.  And buy yourself a tire pump (of the of the old-fashioned &quot;floor&quot; variety) and pressure gauge (if not built into the pump) so you can keep the tires at their proper pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re cold weather, it's probably not a good idea to start out biking below about 10C, though once you get used to it (and collect the right bits of clothing) -20C is reasonable without extreme measures.  Your most critical need is good gloves (maybe two layers), as you can't exactly put your hands in your pockets when they get cold.  You also need, of course, long pants and some sort of wind-resistant shell, but it's surprisingly critical to KEEP COOL, so the &quot;shell&quot; must &quot;breathe&quot; to a degree, and insulation should be on the light side, given the weather.  There are of course specialty bike clothes, but start with what's already in your closet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, get some Velcro leg straps at the bike shop, to keep your pant leg from getting caught in the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T12:47:56.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7737" CreationDate="2012-01-18T12:58:25.670" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't. Track frames are purpose-built for racing at a velodrome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your tri frame will have a much lower bottom bracket. This can easily result in a pedal strike on the banked corners of the velodrome. Pedal strikes on corners with a fixed gear are &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt;; since the drivetrain is always turning, it will cause your rear wheel to jump perpendicular to the track surface. This will throw you into the bike on your left, and cause a spectacular crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not as bad is that your frame has vertical dropouts instead of horizontal ones. Horizontal dropouts are made such that any loosening of your rear skewer bolts can only cause the wheel to move further into the dropouts. With vertical dropouts, any slip can potentially result in you losing your wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T12:58:25.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2012-01-18T13:31:24.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd have to agree with memnoch_proxy in that its more than likely your brake cable that has corroded.  I'd replace both the inner and outer cable.  The spring that exists inside of your brake lever is incredibly weak and its purpose is to return the lever to the original position when not connected to a bike.  It will not be strong enough on its own to pull the brake cable back through.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are still having issues with the cable sticking then it will be to do with the spring on the brake caliper not on the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3184" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T13:31:24.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7726" CreationDate="2012-01-18T15:41:35.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it is an halogen light (correct me if I'm wrong), there is a socket inside, with a spring or something, where you &quot;screw&quot; the lamp. Maybe the spring got weak, there is some rust, or some other sort of bad-quality electrical connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the lamps are meant to be replaceable by the user, you could do it yourself perhaps without any tool, or perhaps with a small screwdriver or some sort of tiny plier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in doubt, you could take the light to some friend or shop to take a look inside, for obvious bad-connections caused by rust or misalignments. A simple cleaning would do it, the lamp connections are always quite similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The forum refers to adjusting the light angle, twisting the whole headlight, while it could be too tightly fixed on the bike. That would mean the headlight outer casing and/or internal structure got a little bent and misaligned. A movement in the oposite direction coud straighten things back to normal, perhaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T15:41:35.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-18T17:30:34.733" Score="3" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed several times lately when stopping at an intersection with a car detection loop that my wireless cyclometer (an Atom 4.0) exhibits some strange behavior. It continues to think I'm moving (as indicated by a triangle icon), the distance increases (by a tenth of a mile every few seconds), the average speed goes up rapidly (in accordance with the distance increase), but the current speed appears stuck at whatever the last real reading was, and the maximum speed is unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it's to do with the car detection loops in the pavement, since the only other electronic things on my bike are lights, and I've seen this with them off. Is this how interference might present itself in the cyclometer? Are the loops indeed a probable source? Can I try to shield something to avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T15:05:44.510" Title="Cyclometer interference from car detection loops?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6452" CreationDate="2012-01-18T17:44:29.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are they FSA SL-K cranks? Mine kept coming loose. FSA advised the use of loctite - 641 for the splines. I had a hard time finding this specific formula of loctite locally, but once I got some my crank stayed on for about a year until I upgraded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T17:44:29.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2012-01-18T18:49:54.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me throw out RamMounts.com as a good option. I've been using one of their multi-device clamps and I'm very happy. They do make some i4 specific stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T18:49:54.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-18T20:24:43.810" Score="2" ViewCount="4948" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dahon.com/bikes/2011/mu-uno&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dahon Mu Uno 2011&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. I am really happy with the bike, but it's my first folding bike and I have noticed how quick it gets dirty. This is probably due to being closer to the ground than most other bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is a good cleaning routine for a bike like this?&lt;/strong&gt; My previous bikes (road bikes, mountain bikes, etc) I only cleaned maybe once every month or two. But I feel this one needs more attention and I want to keep it happy. However, I am also afraid of ruining the folding mechanisms with excessive cleaning. Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMrOy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cMrOym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of entire folding bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7rvn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J7rvnm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;zoomed in picture showing chain with protector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3298" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T23:40:42.837" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T00:33:39.147" Title="Folding bike cleaning" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7757" CreationDate="2012-01-18T21:36:40.390" Score="9" ViewCount="4050" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before building up a new frame, it's crucially important to ream/face the headtube and crown race seat (and the bottom bracket, if using press-fit cups). You should also ideally chase the threads of the BB and the derailleur hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But why don't manufacturers (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/spew_care_and_feeding_of_your_steel_frame&quot;&gt;Surly&lt;/a&gt;) do this before they leave the factory? Surly in particular mentions that they &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; in fact face their head tubes, but they do so before painting the frame, requiring new frame owners to re-face them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why wouldn't they just do this before shipping the frame out? It seems like a no-brainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T16:32:38.863" Title="Why don't frame manufacturers ream/face their frames?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;preparation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7752" CreationDate="2012-01-19T00:01:13.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would take a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of cleaning to wear away the folding mechanisms on a Dahon. Unless you're cleaning your bike with steel wool and an angle grinder, you have very little to worry about. However, as you likely know, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; cleaning your bike can result in excessive wear. The good news is that, since this is a single-speed bike, you have less to clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While folders &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; get dirtier than other bikes, because they're lower to the ground, cleaning one isn't all that different from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/228/how-to-wash-a-bike-properly&quot;&gt;cleaning&lt;/a&gt; a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2756/practical-cleaning-routine-for-a-commuter-bike&quot;&gt;non-folding bike&lt;/a&gt;, with a few differences: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you want to get the dirt off (including any &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/2663/8&quot;&gt;road salt&lt;/a&gt;) or grit or &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1507/how-can-i-clean-sand-off-my-bike-chain&quot;&gt;sand&lt;/a&gt;, clean the drivetrain, then relube it. Make sure to rinse off any degreaser before relubing. Since a folding frame has more points of entry, you might want to take more care to avoid getting anything inside the frame - or spend a little time investigating to see if you have any dirt or grit in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attacking the dirt and road grime with warm soapy water and then rinsing it off will be your best strategy. There's some controversy about whether or not citrus degreaser is bad for a bike's paint job, but I use it for stubborn bits of dirt and make sure to rinse it off thoroughly. I would &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/4979/8&quot;&gt;avoid high-pressure water&lt;/a&gt;, or at the very least, keep it away from the bearings and folding parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what that plastic covering is on the chain, but it looks like it's there to protect it, which should make your job easier. You'll still want to remove the chain from time to time and clean it. On my Dahon Curve, I do it by removing the rear wheel and soaking the chain overnight in diluted degreaser, then rinsing the chain thoroughly. (The rear hub on a Curve can be a little finicky to put back on, but for reasons involving the internal hub. That's not an issue with the Uno, since it's a singlespeed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning smaller wheels &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be a little difficult, because the spaces between the spokes and the rim are so small. However, there's less area to cover, so that evens out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The folding parts on a Dahon include the frame hinge joint, the handlebar pillar, the seat post, and the stem hinge. They don't have any particular instructions for cleaning (soap and water will do a fine job), but you do want to make sure those are maintained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T00:07:10.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7752" CreationDate="2012-01-19T00:40:34.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the other poster said, cleaning it more shouldn't be a huge issue.  A nice pro tip is to put some car-wax style treatment on the frame and the non-lubricated parts.  I use NuFinish (wouldn't use it on a car, but it works great on bikes...I think &quot;real&quot; waxes might cause dust to stick) which protects all of the parts with an extra layer of wax and causes a lot of dirt to just fall right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have an easily accessible hose for washing, I suggest one of those garden fertilizer/pesticide sprayers that you can get for $15 at home depot.  I fill mine up with hot water and a little bit of auto soap (dish soap will eat away the wax coating).  When you spray that on there, it has enough pressure to clean everything off of the waxed surfaces and if you don't use too much soap, there is no need to rinse it with plain water.  A soft brush can be used to get any extra stubborn areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For chains, I use a quick link to take them on and off, put them in a screw top plastic peanut jar with some sort of cleaner/degreaser, add water and shake.  Repeat this several times until the water runs clear.  Then you can dry it off, relube and put back on the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep really clean, instead of using liquid oil, get a miniature crock pot for $2 from a thrift store (or use a double boiler) and fill it with a block of paraffin (use decent candles or buy a pound of it from the canning section of the grocery store)...to go really pro, add a bit of a dry-teflon lubricant to the wax.  Then just put the chain on top of the wax, plug in the crock pot, and come back when it is fully melted.  You can fish out the chain,, reattach to the bike and just unplug the crock pot so the wax will harden up for use next time.  Spin the pedals a few times t&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3300" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T00:40:34.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7726" CreationDate="2012-01-19T01:48:17.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like I suggested above, it's very likely that the problem is due to the sliprings in the dynamo.  Unfortunately, the SON hubs do not admit to being serviceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T01:48:17.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7753" CreationDate="2012-01-19T03:00:09.230" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt; thing that comes to my mind is labour costs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second&lt;/strong&gt; thing that comes to mind is that once you break that paint seal by reaming/facing you are allowing contact with the air and elements.  As a good practice you should coat the threads with a little grease before assembly, meaning that when you get that new frame, you tap out the mounting holes and then screw in the mounting bolt with grease that will re-seal the exposed metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Third&lt;/strong&gt;..tradition.  New frames never came faced in the old days as it was expected that the professional bike mechanic would be doing all that as it was their job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T03:00:09.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7749" CreationDate="2012-01-19T03:08:18.160" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found the same thing happens to me when using the wireless ones.  Was never sure if it was the fact my wife was riding so close to me and we had cross talk happening, as she has the same model as me.  Figured that if my reciever was picking up my transmitter and her's slightly later then I would start seeing a double in my speed, which is sort of what I have seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea of it being the induction loops never occured to me...as I don't fully understand the circuit being used for the sensor I'll reserve judgement on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T03:08:18.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7687" CreationDate="2012-01-19T03:15:57.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stickers are fine... paint is the danger as mentioned already.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some helmets are constructed using a thin plastic shell that is stuck to the foam base.  If you remove the shell and paint that seperately, then re-attach it you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as you should get a new helemt every few years, to make the manufactures happy and to be safe because the materials break down over time due to UV light and other variables, I'd just go out and find a nice helmet in the colour that you want.  The cost isn't extremely high and you'd look very chic ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T03:15:57.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7749" CreationDate="2012-01-19T04:08:37.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't go over the things too often, but I've never noticed this with a wired unit (haven't had my wireless long enough to really notice this, since I don't do that much city riding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interference could work two ways.  Could be interfering with the wireless radio (which I suspect is ANT, a sort of poor-man's Bluetooth), or it could be that the pulses from the induction loop are triggering the reed switch pickups (or perhaps they use Hall-effect sensors in the newer units).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever the interaction is, it is a bit weird -- Wikipedia says that the typical loop frequency is 10 kHz to 200 kHz.  But unless it's pulsed it's hard to see how it would affect the sensors themselves, and ANT operates at 2.4 GHz and should be pretty much immune to the loop frequency.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the way you say it behaves -- getting &quot;stuck&quot; at the last valid speed reading -- is even more bizarre.  My understanding is that the ANT transmitter pulses for each turn of the wheel, and one would expect interference to register as regular pulses, generating a speed that's fixed for a given loop but not related to your former speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This points to the 3rd possibility that the cyclometer employs a phased-locked loop of sorts to filter &quot;noise&quot; from the speed pickup, and the induction loop is simply overloading the cyclometer receiver to the point that it detects continuous noise.  In this situation the phase-locked loop would tend to maintain it's former reading, and you would likely see the phenomenon of a &quot;stuck&quot; speed reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any event, more and more of the intersections around here use cameras instead of induction loops, so such interference is getting less likely (for me, if not for you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T12:27:13.713" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T12:27:13.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-19T04:10:21.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Among the other good points mentioned, races at the elite/pro level (that aren't short track) are not won by solely through achieving the highest average speed. The difference is whether the competitor can produce the best power output, at the most opportune time. To make a vast generalisation, you ride at the same average speed as you competitors, except for a fraction of the race where you are a fraction of a percent faster, then you will win. This small increase in power output may not have much affect on the overall velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Team cycling strategy hinges on putting the strongest cyclist in the best position to make this exertion. For flat races, this means getting your sprinter to the front of the pelaton in the final few hundred meters. In mountain stages, getting your climber in position to let their superior muscle-to-weight ratio and efficiency win out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T04:10:21.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7749" CreationDate="2012-01-19T09:06:46.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The car induction loop seems to be the most likely culprit. Their operation rely on an induction coil being buried under the street in front of the lights [1]. When it detects a car, or for that matter your metal bike, as a result its magnetic field is increased. This magnetic field is used for operation of the lights, but its conceivable that the field will affect the operation of your wireless comp. It's questionable if it would affect a wired computer, as it would be shielded with the connecting cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When passing through the door in my local bike shop with my bike &lt;em&gt;while&lt;/em&gt; having my cyclocomputer fitted I also see the same affect. This time its down to the anti-theft magnetic detection loops fitted at the door. [2]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the solution is to fit a wired comp instead. Or else make sure you stay well back from/in front of the lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-driving-safety/safety-regulatory-devices/question234.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-driving-safety/safety-regulatory-devices/question234.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_article_surveillance#Magnetic_systems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_article_surveillance#Magnetic_systems&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T09:06:46.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7792" CreationDate="2012-01-19T16:29:14.687" Score="2" ViewCount="943" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Koga Signature high-end touring bicycle (internal hub gear, hub generator, half-open chainguard, ...). I'm cycling around 100 km/week (8½ km one-way commute) plus trips, so I've probably done over 10.000 km (bicycle+odometer is currently at the local workshop, so I can't check the exact number right now). I live in a sub-Arctic climate with 5–6 months per year of temperatures below 0°C, typical mid-winter temperatures of -20°C with extremes down to -40°C, and snow lasting from October to May. I cycle year-round and have so far surrendered to bad weather only once (on my previous bicycle, in 2008). I live in Kiruna, Sápmi, Sweden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since yesterday, I have noticed that the crankset moves sideways and the bottom bracket is almost entirely loose. The problem may have existed before, but it should have been significantly less severe or I would have noticed earlier. Although cycling is still possible, I didn't do so out of fear of damaging the bottom bracket shell. This morning, I brought my bicycle to the local service place, and the handyman at the workshop immediately said that it needs replacing, and ordering from The Netherlands (where I indeed bought the bicycle; as a footnote, I am positively surprised that this was the immediate reaction, as responses when I asked advice earlier were along the lines of &quot;I have never seen such a thing before&quot; in response to some part of my bicycle — not many people around here go regularly by bicycle, and I really do hope the people working at the local workshop know what they're doing). Ordering the part will take time, at least a week, probably longer. A long time to be bikeless :(.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the bottom bracket moving sideways indeed mean it needs replacing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it normal that this happens already after 2½ years, under the aforementioned conditions, on a Koga (not the cheapest kind of bicycle)? If not, might I still have guarantee? Unfortunately, it is not practical to return to the store where I bought the bicycle, as this is approximately 2665 km away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it indeed potentially detrimental to continue riding, or is this fine? If it is fine, I could do so until the new bottom bracket arrives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar but different questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1715/does-my-bottom-bracket-need-replacing&quot;&gt;Does my bottom bracket need replacing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1482/how-do-i-know-when-to-replace-my-bottom-bracket&quot;&gt;How do I know when to replace my bottom bracket?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4856/bottom-bracket-making-noise-should-it-be-fixed-now-or-can-i-wait-until-regular&quot;&gt;Bottom bracket making noise, should it be fixed now or can I wait until regular maintenance?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T20:59:26.943" Title="Koga touring bicycle bottom bracket loose, does it need replacing?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7753" CreationDate="2012-01-19T16:32:38.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is important to note that most manufacturer's of quality frames do face and ream their frames before they assemble or ship. They often do it before paint because they do it with  machinery to build/assemble their frames, which allow a level of precision which wasn't possible with a locally produced hand built frame. So facing to raw metal isn't necessary anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the components installed on a modern bicycle often require a level of precision in frame specifications which can be destroyed by hand reaming or facing a frame after purchase. Campagnolo Ultra Torque cranks in particular, when installed, require a very specific shell width for the bottom bracket to be installed and function correctly. The tolerance range is less than .5 millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is not always automatically a good idea to face your frame in a shop or on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T16:32:38.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7763" CreationDate="2012-01-19T17:01:59.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to say without knowing a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BB could use a cartridge or could use loose bearings.  With loose bearings the situation you describe would generally only happen if one of the cups came loose, in which case the balls could slip out of their races, leaving you grinding metal-to-metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a cartridge, if the cups retaining the cartridge get loose the cartridge can slip-slide around a bit, but a real problem would only occur if a cup came loose enough to let the end of the cartridge slip out, at which point the cup would be nearly ready to fall out anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either of these loose cup scenarios would be immediately obvious to the trained eye of the service tech, without having to take the BB apart, and either could be simply rectified.  So more likely there is a cartridge and it has come apart internally (though along the lines of the loose bearing scenario).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally a bottom bracket should last a long time.  Loose bearings can be repacked every 10-20 thousand km or so, and cartridges may need replacing at maybe 50,000 km.  The type of failure you describe (absent the involvement of a clumsy mechanic) is unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If indeed the cartridge has disassembled itself internally then probably no great harm would come from riding on it, other than it could lock up suddenly without warning, or at the very least leave you stranded somewhere.  But with a loose cup scenario you should not ride the bike, as this could damage otherwise-repairable parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T17:01:59.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7767" CreationDate="2012-01-19T17:10:53.200" Score="1" ViewCount="1095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a bicycle last summer a Specialized camber comp and it mounts Shimano SLX as rear derailleur. My intention is to change it for a xtr derailleur (from 2009) which is mounted in a bicycle I barely use, the derailleur is as new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;do you think is worth to swap them? I am also planing to change the alivio shifters for a better ones since I think the whole set won't be balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3304" LastEditorUserId="3304" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T19:55:11.427" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T15:48:37.483" Title="is it worth to change slx 2011 rear derailleur for xtr 2009?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7766" CreationDate="2012-01-19T17:40:44.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the differences should be so small that I wouldn't botter the trouble just for the sake of change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you have a GOOD REASON (noticeable performance or weight difference for intended use), then XTR, even 2009, should be better than a brand new XT, although I think both are very nice - to the point you cannot tell the difference if you couldn't look at them or know which is which while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, personal taste and preference would determine the best option, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T17:40:44.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-19T22:59:57.810" Score="13" ViewCount="1821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was talking to a bike messenger the other day, and he said something that surprised me: If you see a car door swing open in front of you and you can't avoid it, &lt;strong&gt;pull your hands off the handlebars&lt;/strong&gt; and take the full impact. He said you won't lose any fingers this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? Is there a safer way to collide with a door?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1835" LastEditorUserId="1835" LastEditDate="2012-01-20T18:35:34.793" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T18:43:11.610" Title="What to do if you are about to get doored?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7769" CreationDate="2012-01-19T23:48:35.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I could choose a way, I would brake and dodge to the last moment, to reduce closing speed, and THEN try to grab some part of the door (much harder to do than to say), to decelerate me using the hands and arms, to avoid hitting face-to-metal (but instead face-to-hand-to-metal), and obviously to prevent metal-to-fingers-to-handlebar impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this considers the premise of getting in this situation, which should be avoided at all costs, always watching stopped cars and going as far as possible. But I understand you, because even trying to do so, sometimes you are so cramped for space that is simply not possible to avoid some &quot;russian roulette&quot; short moments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I find if you rehearse these emergency movements, the chance of getting them right if needed is much greater than if you never think about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damn big-city traffic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T23:48:35.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1298" CreationDate="2012-01-20T02:02:00.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestions/opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it worth it to carry a tire patch kit with me in such situations, or pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth getting tires like Marathon Plus which I hope won't flat, but run well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to keep tires inflated: a good pump at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much rain gear should I have, or should I just give up and take the train at the slightest rain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get wet anyway even when it's dry, because I find biking to be hot work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at the slightest rain, so what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Regular pedals, toe clips over normal shoes, or should I look into clipless pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked into clipless, for an 18 km each way commute; and like them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lights are of course a given, since I ride home after dark. Anything else I should think of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fenders, a pannier, brakes that work, and a great route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T02:02:00.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7810" CreationDate="2012-01-20T02:45:11.837" Score="10" ViewCount="33306" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I ride at a cadence of 50RPM for 10 minutes with a 39x23 gear ratio on a hill with 10% grade. Is there a simple formula to calculate the power output required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T09:30:09.480" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T19:33:28.250" Title="How do I calculate the power required to climb a hill at a given cadence? " Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;&lt;physics&gt;&lt;math&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2012-01-20T04:04:17.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, you could only measure power with a specialized instrument, usually an electronic (and expensive) torque meter embedded in a custom crankset or rear hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the state-of-the-art about this, take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www8.garmin.com/train-with-garmin/power-meter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www8.garmin.com/train-with-garmin/power-meter.html&lt;/a&gt;. It will point you a lot of other links on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want, like your question suggests, to estimate power based on total ascent (disregarding energy spent to overcome wind and rolling resistence), you could use &lt;code&gt;power (W) = energy (J) / time (s)&lt;/code&gt; formula, where energy is the variation of potential energy, calculated with &lt;code&gt;energy (J) = mass (kg) * gravity (9,8 m/s²) * height (m)&lt;/code&gt;, being height the total ascent, and mass the combined mass of your body and bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second formula will give the minimum energy spent (since not only ascent, but also drag will consume energy), so you could convert to food calories if you want. Also, if you brake, the kinetic energy is lost, and you spend more energy to accelerate back to speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power means the rate of energy transfer, or how much energy you can spend for each time unit - in plain language, how strong you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T04:04:17.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7769" CreationDate="2012-01-20T05:40:07.973" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally what I'd try to do if I saw it happening and had the split second decision making ability, would be start leaning toward the car (assuming the door was open enough) so that I'd end up slowing down by &lt;strong&gt;sliding against the side of the car&lt;/strong&gt; and keeping any part of my body away from the sharp corner/edge of the door. If a passenger was getting out I'd use that body as a cushion, if not I'd try to get myself to go over the door frame as close to the hinge point as possible to avoid upper body injuries at impact though they may be sustained going over the door frame. &lt;em&gt;This all assumes the door is more open than not.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you should do is practice a &lt;strong&gt;Quick Stop&lt;/strong&gt; so that it's second nature when necessary. This is a technique where you get up off the saddle and get your ass behind the seat and even lower than the seat. The idea is to get as much weight over the rear of the bike as possible and then light up your front brake (this needs to be one fluid/fast motion). If done right, you won't endo. I've been able to skid my front wheel (not ideal, doesn't stop as fast as a rolling braked wheel), but skidding a front wheel is not an easy task and shows just how much weight you need over the rear of the bike. A Quick Stop really is a very quick stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing you can do is ride left and &lt;strong&gt;watch for ANY movement inside parked cars&lt;/strong&gt;, if you see any, either slow or go further left if safe to do so. If you're going the speed limit, take the lane and &lt;strong&gt;skip the bike lane&lt;/strong&gt; entirely if it's a bike lane that's left of parallel parking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-01-22T08:35:40.953" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T08:35:40.953" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7766" CreationDate="2012-01-20T05:47:59.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technology in bicycle components, like other technology, is trickle down. This year's XTR technology trickles down to next year's XT, XT's technology trickles down to SLX, SLX to Deore and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were my components do with what I please, I'd sell the XTR derailer and buy an SLX shifter set to use with the SLX components on the bike. SLX is nice, plenty nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T05:47:59.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2111" CreationDate="2012-01-20T06:22:39.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bluetooth tech is meant for short range use.  Under 10 meters if it's clear line of sight.  I'd suggest you get a retail level portable 2-way radio (FRS) and a headset with mic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Class 1 = 100 meter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Class 2 =  10 meter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards now &lt;a href=&quot;http://terranosystems.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Terrano&lt;/a&gt; is class one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T03:29:11.023" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T03:29:11.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2012-01-20T09:30:26.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the calculator at &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecalculator.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bikecalculator.com&lt;/a&gt;, which will give you a reasonable estimate if you know the average grade of the hill, the day's temperature, and the wind speed/direction (probably not so relevant on a hill). A similar calculator is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sportech.online.fr/sptc_idx.php?pge=spen_esy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; so you can compare two methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The website &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingpowermodels.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclingpowermodels.com&lt;/a&gt; has a host of information about power models, including the following excerpt. I couldn't find a power calculator on there though (only the opposite).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Model Validation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Two key questions in the application of any model to the analysis of&#xA;  cycling must be &quot;is it accurate?&quot; and &quot;what are the assumptions?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Models of the relationship between cycling power and speed have been&#xA;  around for a long time and rely on the physical principles in Newtons&#xA;  Laws of Motion. The principal model of cycling power and speed used&#xA;  throughout this site is an implementation of that proposed in&#xA;  Validation of a Mathematical Model for Road Cycling Power  which&#xA;  appeared in the Journal of Applied Biomechanics in 1998. This&#xA;  publication demonstrated the completeness and validity of the model by&#xA;  comparison of model predicted and observed power values. The model&#xA;  calculates the power a cyclist would have to produce in order to&#xA;  achieve a certain speed on a certain course, taking account of key&#xA;  physical and environmental parameters. In places this model is used to&#xA;  compute speed, time or the value of another parameter given a&#xA;  specified power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The performance of any model is only as good as the accuracy of it's&#xA;  inputs which is why we often go into great detail measuring or&#xA;  estimating major variables such as air density, wind and aerodynamic&#xA;  drag. Any asumptions or modelling approaches will generally be&#xA;  outlined. To some extent the use of consistent power models in the&#xA;  field derivation of aerodynamic drag measurements (i.e. field testing&#xA;  of CdA) can improve the reliability of the models when used with that&#xA;  input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In practise we have found theoretical values of a cyclists ride time,&#xA;  given a specified power and good parameters inputs, to fall&#xA;  consistently within +/-5% of actual ride time and frequently within&#xA;  +/-2%. In the context of the stated accuracy of most cycling power meters at +/-2% we have great belief in the application of physical&#xA;  models to the analysis of cycling events and, more importantly, the&#xA;  analytical power provded to the rider or coach. The more we use these&#xA;  models the more confidence we have in them - if you have used them&#xA;  feel free to let us know your findings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that gear ratio and cadence is not necessary for the calculation (you can produce the same power output with lower gears and faster cadence or vice versa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T20:10:02.607" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T20:10:02.607" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7781" CreationDate="2012-01-20T10:12:14.323" Score="7" ViewCount="1416" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a standard road crossing, the lights have turned red, but the man has gone green for pedestrians to cross. What do you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly in the situation I coast through as long as there is room. (i.e not a sea of people crossing)&#xA;Now my question is, is this bad cycling? I believe not, but I am interested in the views of other cyclists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lfgss.com/thread50817.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thread on lfgss  and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3nMnr8ZirI&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; video... kinda&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-01-20T18:29:16.317" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T07:10:54.163" Title="Safe cycling lights red but the man is green" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;uk&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7780" CreationDate="2012-01-20T11:52:48.933" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are in the UK this is an offence. You are traffic, therefore must obey the red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequences could be a pull by the police and a fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about other jurisdictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T11:52:48.933" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7780" CreationDate="2012-01-20T12:29:23.117" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in Brazil, and as a friend of mine says, we need a &quot;tropical vehicular cycling&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most drivers don't obbey the law (neither do pedestrians, to be honest), so I follow the &quot;bold-but-conscious-biker golden rule&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I cannot be a harm to the safety or comfort of other people. No one should be 'punished' by the way I choose to ride my bike.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means, on pedestrians crossing, I ALWAYS yeld to pedestrians, sometimes even when I have green light for me. But when there are no pedestrians to cross and no cars coming from the crossing street, then I slowly do a &quot;rolling stop&quot; and go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I do that because if I stay, cars accumulate behind and it is no good for them neither for me when green finally comes (I have to hurry, they have to wait, no patience, no respect, bad. If I'm already gone, no conflict, good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is my opinion, my traffic reality, and I don't advise anyone in doubt to follow the same methods. But I'll always consider interpersonal relations and politeness to have precedence over the cold letter of the law, specially if it is &quot;only&quot; traffic law (which means, made to benefit cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I invite anyone to consider this adapted golden rule I've mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T12:29:23.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7780" CreationDate="2012-01-20T12:45:24.573" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most US cyclists, in reasonably good conscience, &quot;stretch&quot; the laws a hair in such circumstances.  Starting a bike from standstill is expensive from an energy standpoint, and it can block traffic behind, so it's good to go ahead and clear the intersection if you can do so safely and without stretching things too far.  But of course none of this would be a defense in court.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T12:45:24.573" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-20T14:10:21.480" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year I plotted average speed versus race distance and there's an incredibly accurate inverse relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ervvM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http:///www.32sixteen.com/2011/07/25/correlation-does-not-equal-causality/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http:///www.32sixteen.com/2011/07/25/correlation-does-not-equal-causality/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to add to my chart and flesh out the reason I think it hasn't increased so greatly. The Tour is a stage race. The average speed we have presented is the average speed of the winner of the General Classification, or &quot;GC&quot;, not based on the fastest times of each stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of the Tour the stages are typically flat stages, and are won by the sprinters. During these stages the eventual winner of the GC is generally looking to achieve parity with his main rivals and finish in the bunch. The bunch itself doesn't ride at the fastest average speed it can. It rides along at a &quot;comfortable&quot; pace, unless there is an attack, and will only achieve top speed during the closing kilometres. Each stage of the race is not run at maximum possible speed it would be if the riders expended maximal effort all day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the race enters the mountains the GC contenders will look to maximise their gains over their rivals and move into the top spots fo the race overall. Even so they will typically only attack on the last climb of the day. They may use their lieutenants to try and wear down their rivals during the early parts of the day by sending out attacks. So again, each stage of the race is not run at maximum possible speed it would be if the riders expended maximal effort all day. Furthermore GC contenders will not only judge their efforts for this day, but for the forthcoming days in the mountains. Attack on day 1 in the Alps and you may lose your time gains on day 2 as fresher riders attack you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plotted the average speed of the Tour based on the fastest time of each stage rather than just of the eventual GC winner you'd see a steeper rise, though for the reasonas I give above even this wouldn't be as great a rise as it would be if every stage was raced flat out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3063" LastEditorUserId="3063" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T16:25:09.217" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T16:25:09.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7780" CreationDate="2012-01-20T14:17:37.150" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Official Highway Code for the United Kingdom states that cyclists are only permited to cross on their bike when a green cycle symbol showing. If the light shows only a green man, you must dismount and push the bike to cross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are part of the traffic (not crossing from path to path) you must obey the red traffic light and stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T14:17:37.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2111" CreationDate="2012-01-20T14:29:25.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can recommend the Motorola T5522 radios with VOX (though PTT is more reliable). Used to use them to co-ordinate at 24 hour races. It's discontinued now, but similar systems can be had for around £25 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3063" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T14:29:25.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2012-01-20T15:33:46.290" Score="12" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Groupset&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A groupset or &lt;em&gt;gruppo&lt;/em&gt; (from the Italian for &quot;group&quot;) generally refers to the components involved in shifting gears, braking, and transmitting power from the rider's legs to the rear wheel. It excludes stems and handlebars (sometimes referred to as the cockpit of the bicycle), saddles, seatposts, pedals, and quick release skewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Groupsets typically include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;integrated brake levers/shifters (on older bikes, brake levers and down-tube or bar-end shifters)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front and rear brakes (including calipers/pads or rotors/disks/pads)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rear derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front derailleur (unless the bike has a 1x drivetrain)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottom bracket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crankset or chainset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cassette (freewheel on older bikes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cables and housings as appropriate (for electronic groupsets, control wires and batteries)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, groupsets have included some or all of the following components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;headset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hubs and usually quick release skewers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stem and seatpost may have been included, or may have been optional purchases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedals are typically optional purchases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4n0ho.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SRAM Red Groupset&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo account for the vast majority of road bike groupsets. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SRAM_Corporation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SRAM&lt;/a&gt; had entered the road bike market in 1988, then exited, then re-entered in 2004. Shimano and SRAM are the majority of the mountain bike groupset market. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campagnolo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Campagnolo&lt;/a&gt; briefly produced one mountain bike groupset before exiting that market. At the time of writing, Full Speed Ahead and Rotor have produced groupsets as well, but these have yet to achieve widespread take up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Groupsets are offered at a range of price points. Each of the 3 major manufacturers makes one version for professional road (e.g. Campagnolo Super Record) or mountain bike racing (e.g. SRAM XX1). They also offer various lower level groupsets for consumers. Generally, the high-performance consumer groupsets (e.g. Shimano 105 and Ultegra) will have less exotic material (i.e. less titanium and carbon fiber) used in manufacture and will be heavier, but will usually offer very similar performance on other characteristics (e.g. durability, shift quality). Groupset manufacturers generally offer electronic shifting versions of their top two groupsets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original equipment manufacturer (OEM) market is dominated by Shimano and SRAM (i.e. most complete bicycles come with Shimano or SRAM components). For the most part, shifters and derailleurs are not compatible between brands, and complete bicycles will not mix these components. However, some complete bicycles will substitute cranksets and/or brakes from third party manufacturers for cost or performance reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastEditorUserId="38270" LastEditDate="2019-10-21T15:56:41.280" LastActivityDate="2019-10-21T15:56:41.280" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-20T15:33:46.290" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7780" CreationDate="2012-01-20T16:04:28.190" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only answer really is, in the UK, what you're doing is illegal. Full stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various factions who will try to mitigate the behaviour on grounds of safety, but, fundamentally, by going through a red light, even if in your opinion there is room, you are putting yourself into a position where other users of that facility do not reasonable expect you to be. What if someone is running for their green man and hits you from the side? Not so much room now! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that there are many situations where coasting through a red is safe and where you can see the junction is empty. Indeed, there are situations where the red light is only serving to hold people up and I'd happily see all queued users, whether self-powered or motorised, go through the red; but you'd be in the wrong and need to accept whatever punishment is meted out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T16:04:28.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1298" CreationDate="2012-01-20T19:37:24.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ride with what you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commute is about 3 miles. I never carry any tools, and i only bring rain gear if rain is in the forecast. Good fenders are key, and i agree a basket or rack is nice. Lugging it all in a backpack gets old. Especially a laptop, lunch, water, coffee and bike lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T19:37:24.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7769" CreationDate="2012-01-21T18:07:20.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;... avoid it, &lt;strong&gt;pull your hands off the handlebars&lt;/strong&gt; and take ...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine you have to &lt;strong&gt;push&lt;/strong&gt; (not pull) your hands of the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; a good idea, to part ways with the bike, and to get up into a more upright position (instead of head-first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's video of people (e.g. someone in NYC) deliberately (and expectedly) running into obstacles and coming off: you could look at their technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.: Not the same technique as how to come off a moving motorcycle, which is heavier than a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T18:07:20.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7763" CreationDate="2012-01-21T20:59:26.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, Koga insists nowadays on using Shimano Hollowtech bottom brackets. Their quality is are notoriously bad, in comparison to most classic bottom brackets with a square taper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You needn't be worried that you damage the bottom bracket, it probably already is beyond repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of those Hollowtech things are known to have failed within 10000 kilometers. [See for a spectacular example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vimeo.com/35062944&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, at 6:34 ] &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing it with another Hollowtech will not do much about this problem. If I were in your position, I'd get another bottom bracket and thus different set of cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3317" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T20:59:26.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7766" CreationDate="2012-01-22T08:50:02.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are at least 2 components to this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, 2011 SLX had the option to be 10 speed. 2009 XTR is 9 speed, and so would not work with the 10 speed drivetrain. It will if you have the 9 speed SLX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the actual performance difference, XTR gains its high level of performance from a lot of finely machined and (possibly over)engineered components working together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have all of the XTR components, you will gain only a very small performance difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T08:50:02.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7780" CreationDate="2012-01-22T09:19:08.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will always stop at a red-light unless it would cause me injury or risk of death to do otherwise (idiot in car tailgating for eg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3318" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T09:19:08.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7769" CreationDate="2012-01-22T15:41:06.107" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, if you have enough time to react then you need to either swerve, stop as quickly as possible, or if you have very little time to react, get your hands (and feet) disengaged from the bike to brace for impact. The problem is you're unlikely to have enough time to react in the first place. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I was hit by a car that turned left in front of me sometime back. By the time I realized I needed to react I was cartwheeling over the hood and my bike, then in two pieces, was left behind. The amount of time it takes for someone to turn in front of you is arguably more time than you'll have if someone opens their door on you in the bike lane. I've heard stories from friends that it happened to them so quickly that they had no idea how they ended up on the ground until they regained their senses and had a moment to survey the situation.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; What I'm getting at is that &lt;strong&gt;instead of thinking about how you can mitigate the damage when getting doored is inevitable, you need to concern yourself more with avoiding situations where it can happen in the first place.&lt;/strong&gt; That's pretty simple to do. Avoid the bike lane when there are rows of parked cars. Even if traffic is bad, &lt;strong&gt;learn to assert yourself and take a lane when necessary.&lt;/strong&gt; If traffic is always bad and cars are always parked on that stretch of road, look for alternative routes. &lt;strong&gt;Prevention is your best defense in these situations.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding keeping your fingers, i think your messenger friend has been fed some horror stories at dispatch and may indulge in enough alternative cigarettes to believe them.&#xA;:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T15:41:06.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7766" CreationDate="2012-01-22T15:48:37.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get the shifters changed out first. You're unlikely to notice any difference with an XT rd if you've got budget shifters. On the flipside if you've got the part sitting around already, there's no harm in changing it out - it's just not worth your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T15:48:37.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-22T16:46:05.720" Score="3" ViewCount="2252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have entered a sprint triathlon on a whim and have a 29er mountain bike. Is there a road suitable tire for a 29x2.25 wheel out there? Looking for something that will give me good roll and as little resistance for my 110kg as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3321" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-01-22T19:12:17.810" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T19:13:16.840" Title="Looking for a 29x2.25 tire for my first sprint tri-athlon" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7798" CreationDate="2012-01-22T18:50:49.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course. 29 inches is the same rim size as 700c, so there are plenty of tires out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For maximum speed, you want the narrowest tire that you can safely get on there. Take off your tire and measure the inner rim width. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Refer to the chart at the bottom of this page&lt;/a&gt; to see which tire widths would be suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T18:50:49.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7798" CreationDate="2012-01-22T19:13:16.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are tires out there that are smooth and will fit that rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your rim diameter is 622mm. Same as most road bikes, most cyclocross bikes, many touring bikes, many hybrids, and some cruisers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Figure out your rim &lt;em&gt;width&lt;/em&gt; in millimeters. It might be printed on the wheel somewhere, it might be in the specs for your bike, and you might have to borrow some calipers to figure it out. You're looking for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#isoetrto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;inner rim width&lt;/a&gt; that fits outside the beads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should now have figured out the ISO size of your rims.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work out what the acceptable tire widths. Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#ETRTO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's tire width to rim width chart&lt;/a&gt; should help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for tires within the range you've worked out. I suspect 45-622 will be your smallest acceptable size and 60-622 is probably a tiny bit bigger than your current tire. If you go a bit smaller (35-38mm), you'll be risking pinch flats and rim damage, but there's a lot more tires available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably find that tires marketed for comfort hybrids, cruisers, touring  or &quot;urban/trail&quot; bikes are were you'll find a big enough smooth tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schwalbe makes the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/off-road_tires/super_moto_430&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Super Moto&lt;/a&gt; in 60-622, which is specifically marketed as a competition-appropriate smooth tire for a 29er.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're willing to spend a lot more, consider replacing the wheels with Cyclocross wheels, some other 622mm wheel with a slightly narrower rim than a 29er usually comes with. That would allow you to get into the wide end of regular road tires where there's a ton more choices made for competition on paved surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: smaller tires will change the handling and lower the bottom bracket closer to the ground, so don't get too crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T19:13:16.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7802" CreationDate="2012-01-22T20:49:34.790" Score="1" ViewCount="2580" Body="&lt;p&gt;During these winter months I am currently attending the gym 3 times a week. On each of the days I start my training on an exercise bike with the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 minute warm up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 minutes, 1 minute hard, 1 minute recovery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 minute warm down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a specific interval training setting on the bike. I preset the training to level 15, which is a high resistance and as much as I can take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard is a cadence of between 80-90rpm high resistance. Recovery is a cadence of 60prm and the resistance backs off considerably, I imagine to approximately level 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My heart rate towards the end of the session reaches 170–190bpm, and I am working flat-out. I turn 30 in March, am 5' 8&quot; and weigh approx 168lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this training routine seem sensible for building strength and speed on the mountain? Should I be changing up the training with other types of bike training?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also worth noting that after the interval training I perform free weight strength training too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T03:10:46.597" Title="Is my interval training routine effective for mountain bike training?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7801" CreationDate="2012-01-22T21:19:21.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether an interval training is effective or not depends mostly on your particulars relative to the interval. Heart rate is only a very inexact measure of effort, but you seem to be roughly in the ballpark. However, such quick switching between on/off interval state does not generally produce interval-like results and should be viewed as a single 30-minute interval at the average power of this period. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better gauge of interval quality would be this: how long can you keep up the effort? A more typical interval training might be e.g. 6-7 times 3-8 minute efforts, with 2-5 minute rests, at such intensity that you simply cannot complete another interval round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A goal of &quot;strength and speed&quot; on the mountain is unspecific enough that you can be sure it's being helped somewhat, and in some way, by the intervals. However, it's counterproductive to do interval training &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; weight training both in one session. If you are still in shape to do weight training after your intervals, it means the intervals weren't done hard enough. Do intervals and weights on alternate days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T21:19:21.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7806" CreationDate="2012-01-23T14:19:44.233" Score="7" ViewCount="1568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a few GPS devices either in the backlight or unside the seat tube which you can track if you lose your bike (your bike gets stolen). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think about this stuff. Is it worth the money and how easy is it to track your bike with this things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3169" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T20:15:24.043" Title="GPS bike tracking (locks)" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-23T14:43:57.573" Score="0" ViewCount="2775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cube LTD CC (2009 model) which has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=68774&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this semi-integrated headset&lt;/a&gt; in it. It needs replacing, but I'd rather go for something with cartridge bearings instead of cage bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking around on the Cane Creek website trying to work out what might be compatible but don't know the measurements (don't really want to dismantle the headset if I can avoid it). Seems I need a ZS headset of some sort, but that's all I know. What are my options here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="452" LastEditorUserId="452" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T16:59:03.237" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T16:59:03.237" Title="Which headset to replace my FSA No.10?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7804" CreationDate="2012-01-23T15:11:15.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a standard 1-1/8in headset to me? The gold standard is the Chris King NoThreadSet. Sealed cartridge bearings, lasts damn near forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T15:11:15.750" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7803" CreationDate="2012-01-23T15:16:55.507" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pain in the ass, and waste of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of the last time I checked, you can't track them directly (there'd be no way for you to receive a signal from a battery-operated device 5mi away), so you need to sign up for a recurring monthly service. On top of that, they chew through battery pretty quickly, requiring a recharge every few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrast that to just buying a decent set of locks. If you need to lock up your bike in the same place every day, get a thick $80 chain and a cable for the front wheel. If you need something lightweight to carry around you, a $50 u-lock is going to be a reasonable level of protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike is worth more than a few grand, you're absolutely crazy to leave it outside at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T15:16:55.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7801" CreationDate="2012-01-23T16:50:14.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To some extent whether it will be effective depends on your goal. Are you trying to develop endurance or speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an article at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsci.org/jour/0101/cf.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Effects of High Intensisty Intermittent Training on Maximum Oxygen Uptake and Endurance Performance&quot;&gt;sportsci.org&lt;/a&gt; on the &quot;Effects of High Intensisty Intermittent Training on Maximum Oxygen Uptake and Endurance Performance&quot; which compares several different interval training techniques if Endurance is your goal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3063" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T16:50:14.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1529" CreationDate="2012-01-23T17:02:46.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just another idea (plus the ones already shown):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some time ago I figured out the best way to store my bikes at home is to put them side by side with the front wheel sligtly turned, about 30 or 45 degrees. So I put a bike against the wall, with front wheel pointing slightly to the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second bike goes the same position, leaning against the first, so that the handlebars don't interfere with each other, and the front wheels form a ////| pattern (last vertical line is the wall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This principle can be expanded to optimize space in any kind of bike rack, but last week I went to a place where the bike rack was only a single horizontal rail placed 1,5 meter above the ground. Then the bikes were hanging in the same position I explained here, the rail stucked behind the fork crown. The rear wheels were still in the ground, with the bikes tilted around 60° in the &quot;wheelie&quot; position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was afraid to damage the painting, but surprisingly it was extremely simple and &quot;comfortable&quot; to hang the bike and close the lock, while saving a lot of space for the rack owner. A simple plastic cover on the rail would make that the perfect bike rack, in my opinion (except for recumbents or tandems).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T17:02:46.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7811" CreationDate="2012-01-23T18:27:26.987" Score="5" ViewCount="6421" Body="&lt;p&gt;How exactly is a dual pivot brake better than single pivot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the travel, mechanical advantage, or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T12:30:18.700" Title="In what ways is a dual pivot brake better than single-pivot?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2012-01-23T18:47:57.510" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't quite supply enough information in your specific question (that is, &quot;50RPM for 10 minutes with 39x23 with 10% hill&quot;) to provide a full answer in absolute terms but, if we assume you're riding a standard sized 700c bike there's enough information to make a good estimate in relative terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I'll give a short answer, then a rule of thumb that's easy to calculate and will put you within about 10%, then a longer more detailed answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer to your question, in relative terms, is ~ 3 watts/kg of total mass. To convert that to total absolute watts, you just multiply 3 watts/kg * total mass (in kg) for you, your bike, and all the equipment you're carrying. For example, if you weigh 70 kg and your bike and all its equipment together weigh an additional 10 kg, it will take approximately 3 * (70+10) = 240 watts. If you weigh 70 kg, that would mean you would need to produce 240/70 = ~ 3.4 watts/kg of body mass.  To put that into context, 3.4 watts/kg for 10 minutes is not a bad amount of power output for a casual recreational cyclist; on a normal walk on flat level ground people average around 1 watt/kg, while a pro cyclist might be able to average in excess of 5 watts/kg for an hour. It has been estimated that Lance Armstrong produced slightly over 6 watts/kg for 40 minutes in climbing Alpe d'Huez during the Tour de France. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rule of thumb to use to convert speed to power on steep hills is this: On a steep hill, multiply the hill's gradient by your speed in km/h, then by ~ 3. If you measure your speed in mph, multiply by 5 rather than 3. That will give you a ballpark estimate of the watts/kg you need to produce. For example, if you are climbing a 10% hill in a 39/23 gear ratio at 50 rpm on a standard sized bike, you're traveling at ~ 11 km/h (or around 6.5 mph). So 10% * 11 km/h = 1.1, and 1.1 * 3 = 3.3 watts/kg. Alternatively, if you measure speed in mph, 10% * 6.5 mph = .65, and .65 * 5 = 3.25 watts/kg. Basically, all you have to remember for this rule of thumb is the number 3 if you measure speed in km/h, or 5 if you measure speed in mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How did I convert your cadence in a particular gear to speed? On a standard normal-sized bike, the &quot;700c&quot; rear wheel has a circumference ~ 2100mm (= ~ 2.1 meters). If you were pedaling at 50 rpm through a 39/23 gear, then (50 rpm) * (39/23) * (60 minutes/hour) * (2.1 meters) = ~ 10700 meters/hour, or 10.7 km/h, or 6.6 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now, the fuller explanation. The equation to convert speed to power is well-understood. Total power demanded has four parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Total power = power needed to overcome rolling resistance + &#xA;              power needed to overcome aerodynamic resistance + &#xA;              power needed to overcome changes in speed (kinetic energy) + &#xA;              power needed to overcome changes in elevation (potential energy)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these, the simplest piece is the power needed to overcome changes in elevation which, fortunately in this case, is what you were asking. On a steep hill, your speed is low and the aerodynamic and other resistance forces tend to be small relative to the climbing part. The power needed to account for the change in potential energy is straightforward: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;watts(PE) = slope * speed in meters/sec * total mass * 9.8 m/sec^2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;watts/kg = slope * speed in meters/sec * 9.8 m/sec^2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, all we need is to get speed in m/s. If you have a cyclecomputer that reads in km/h, you need to divide km/h by 3.6 to get m/s and multiply by 9.8. If your cyclecomputer reads in mph, divide mph by 2.25 and multiply by 9.8. If you do this, you'll see that the resulting constants are approximately 3 (for km/h) and 5 (for mph), as stated in the rule of thumb above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2012-06-15T04:28:40.140" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T04:28:40.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7809" CreationDate="2012-01-23T18:54:31.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main point of a dual pivot is the mechanical advantage. Since the individual pivot for each side of the brake is optimized for a greater lever length, you end up with a greater pressure of the pads against the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since the pivots are cleverly positioned (in my opinion), you end up with a compact, light and strong overall structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside would be tire clearance, which is not big problem on road bikes. On mountain bikes, V-brakes provide very good mechanical advantage with a very good clearance, but with a less compact structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T18:54:31.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-23T19:44:58.867" Score="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest answer to your question is that 1) speeds &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; increased; but 2) speeds would have increased &lt;em&gt;even more&lt;/em&gt; except Tour organizers have been consciously making the Tour harder in order to increase the drama, suspense, and entertainment value of the race. That makes comparisons of overall winner's speed quite complex when combined with normal variations in wind, weather, and team tactics during the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, some historical background. Over time, the winner's average speed in the Tour has indeed increased, especially in the period of the early 1990's and some (including, for a famous example, Greg Lemond, himself a three-time winner of the Tour) have claimed that this is evidence of doping behavior in professional cycling. However, as one of the other answers showed, there is a strong relationship between distance and overall winner's speed. Here is a plot that shows that relationship in the post-WWII period through 2012: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbfZ0.png&quot; alt=&quot;speed by distance, TdF 1947-2012&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance of the Tour has been decreasing due to the rules and regulations of the UCI (the Union Cycliste Internationale), which negotiated a limitation to the length of races and mandated certain numbers of rest days during the Tour with the Professional Riders' Association. From an historical perspective, these limitation were a response to charges that the difficulty of the Tour resulted in riders needing to dope simply to survive, and that by &quot;easing&quot; the stages and inserting rest days there would be less need to dope. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An effect of shorter stages (and higher speeds), perhaps paradoxically, is that race organizers have been increasing the difficulty of the stages; this is particularly noticeable in the other two &quot;Grand Tours&quot;, the Giro d'Italia and the Vuelta a Espana but also applies to the Tour: the number and &quot;spacing&quot; of categorized climbs in the Tour has resulted in more difficulty overall. Each year, at the announcements of the routes for each of the Grand Tours, riders and analysts pronounce whether a particular parcours will be relatively difficult or relatively easy, and favoring either sprinters, time trialists, or climbers. That there is a &lt;strong&gt;still&lt;/strong&gt; a strong relationship between length of the Tour and overall speed simply means that the organizers haven't completely compensated for the distance effect with increased difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, although your question was not expressly about doping behavior in the pro peloton, a bit more must be said about that. The plot above shows a clear relationship between distance and speed but there is still a question about deviations (or the &quot;residuals&quot;) from that relationship. That is, after removing the effect for the length of each Tour, what is the remaining trend in the winner's average speed? The plot below shows that trend with a dotted red line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lVM6x.png&quot; alt=&quot;time trend in residuals from speed on distance&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the winners' average speeds in the 1970's and 1980's were below trend, while speeds in the 1960's, 1990's and 2000's were above the long-term trend. So, even if the long-term trend in speeds can &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; be explained by Tour length (the correlation between Tour length and winner's speed is about 0.8), some have pointed to this secondary effect in the residuals as further evidence of doping. However, there are two counter-arguments, one slightly weaker and one very much stronger. The weaker argument is based on the observation that the residuals are &quot;double-peaked&quot; and speeds in the 1960's were also higher than the trend, then dropped in the 1970's and 1980's. If doping were the simple explanation, one would have to explain the drop in the 1970's and 1980's, not just the rise in the 1990's and 2000's. However, the stronger argument is based on examining data from other races and comparing them to the Tour. If one were to examine the residuals from a similar plot of speed vs. distance for the Giro and Vuelta, one would see that the years when their speeds were above (or below) their own trend lines &lt;em&gt;did not&lt;/em&gt; correspond with the same years for the Tour. That is, the speed residual for the Tour and the speed residuals for the Giro or Vuelta are not &quot;synchronized.&quot; Thus, if doping behavior explained the reason why Tour speeds were higher than would be predicted from distance, then one would have to explain why doping behavior was different in the Tour and Giro (or Vuelta) in the same year, often with the same riders. Below I include a plot that shows the &quot;residuals&quot; from the Tour (that is, residuals from the regression of winner's average speed on Tour length) plotted against the same residuals for the Giro. This does not mean, of course, that there is no doping in either the Tour or the Giro -- it simply means that one cannot use average speeds as evidence of that doping. Conversely, it also means that one cannot use doping as an explanation for increased average speed. Taken together, it does support the evidence that race organizers's decisions about the routes is a main determinant of the average speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b2mPY.png&quot; alt=&quot;speed on distance resids for TdF and Giro&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2012-08-01T13:58:36.373" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T13:58:36.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7814" CreationDate="2012-01-23T20:47:50.473" Score="34" ViewCount="210105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made a photo of the actual &quot;thing&quot; as I find it very difficult to explain otherwise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cBaGG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what this &quot;thing&quot; sets and how it actually works. So, what is &quot;preload&quot; and what happens when I turn it clockwise (plus) and anticlockwise (minus). I tried rotating it both ways to its maximum limit and I didn't notice any change in anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike the photo has been taken from is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merida-bikes.com/en_int/bike/2012/219/MTB+Hardtails/Matts+40-D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Merida Matts 40-D&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T21:58:55.790" Title="What is the &quot;preload&quot; setting on the front fork suspension?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7813" CreationDate="2012-01-23T21:09:38.173" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;This fork setting exists so that the fork can be customized to your weight (major reason) and riding style (minor reason). It's simply the initial compression of the internal spring in the fork. The more it's compressed, the stiffer the fork will feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigger preload compresses the spring more, and so it's best for heavier riders and/or people who need/prefer the stiffer ride (racers etc.)  Lighter riders should use less(-) preload. Less(-) preload will also give you plusher ride, but the bike will e.g. dive more during braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicyclethailand.com/setting-the-sag-on-mtb-suspension-forks/&quot;&gt;http://bicyclethailand.com/setting-the-sag-on-mtb-suspension-forks/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T21:58:55.790" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T21:58:55.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2012-01-24T00:45:36.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are good answers already. For practicality I just use this website:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle2max.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cycle2max.com&lt;/a&gt; to estimate power. You can't use it for training but&#xA;it's quite useful for comparing different climbs. IIRC, they also tune&#xA;their algorithm with power meter data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T00:45:36.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-24T04:51:42.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the constantly changing course a certain amount of variation in average speed is expected. Over time however, I suspect this in not an issue as the course organisers tend to regress to the mean – some years the course is ‘tougher’, other years ‘easier’. It’s true that a comparison between two years is not really possible, but it’s acceptable to consider the general trend over the race’s history. (Although it’s certainly true that the Tour is significantly different today than when it first started).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some comments refer to increase in wind. Again I suspect this to not be an issue as slower speeds due to stronger head winds would be cancelled by faster speeds due to tailwinds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel the change in speeds has primarily been driven by two factors – technological improvements and doping. The bikes have become lighter and more efficient at using the power output by riders through such innovations as carbon and titanium materials, clip in pedals, aerodynamic wheels and apparel etc. EPO in the 90s/2000s is generally considered to have played a significant role in the increased average speed of that time. Many cycling commentators believe (sorry no references) that the peloton is now mostly clean which is reflected in the slower average speed. Another good alternative measure to average speed is vertical ascent meters (or VAM), which has also dropped from the Pantani / Armstrong peak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, to answer your question, I believe the stagnate average speed experienced over the last 5 or so years is primarily due to a clean - dope free peloton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ll update with reference if I get a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3331" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T04:51:42.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7780" CreationDate="2012-01-24T09:25:53.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assumptions being made:&lt;/strong&gt; you are asking about cycling in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like someone above mentioned you're question seems to have two parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;What do you do?, and...&quot;is this bad cycling?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going through a red light for your traffic direction is an offence. There is no other way to look at it, even if I/you/others don't agree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;What do you do?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Well, that's kinda asking people to admit to breaking the law :) There have been times where I have had to change my cycling habits due to concern for my personal safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Is this bad cycling&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This question is more opinion - and my opinion would be as long as you are cycling responsibly and giving full way to the traffic direction that &lt;strong&gt;has&lt;/strong&gt; right of way, and not putting any other road user in danger, then you are not cycling badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a police man/women stopped you and asked why you broke the red light, and you were able to explain a reasonable excuse, &quot;its because the traffic was very heavy and there were cars illegally in the &quot;cyclists advanced stop area&quot; taking away my headstart over them. And that articulated truck parked in the cycling lane ahead was going to cause me to veer out into traffic behind me&quot;, then I would assume you had explained your actions for committing the offence. But of course, IANAL (I am not a lawyer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer&lt;/strong&gt; is, legally it is &quot;bad cycling&quot;, and if you don't want to risk committing &quot;an offence&quot; don't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T09:25:53.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7823" CreationDate="2012-01-24T09:48:52.950" Score="7" ViewCount="15206" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I feel a little pain in my lower back after cycling (nothing too long, mainly cycling around London for general commuting...5-10Km). It could be due to a number of reasons (I have a bad back anyway), but I would like to eliminate bad cycling posture as a possible cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only find one mention of cycling posture on SE, but it refers to flat bars:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2528/proper-posture-on-a-flat-bar-road-bike&quot;&gt;Proper Posture on a flat bar road bike&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is the correct size for me I believe, using the old &quot;its just the right height for my crotch..Ouch!&quot; measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have useful sources of information how to achieve the correct cycling posture? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T22:47:46.620" Title="&quot;Proper&quot; cycling posture on a road bike with drop bars?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-01-24T10:52:09.387" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Average speed depends on distance, altitude profile, road surface, tactics, weather, equipment, training methods, nutrition etc.&#xA;That makes any average speed chart useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3334" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T10:52:09.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7821" CreationDate="2012-01-24T12:15:53.340" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whatever works.  The main advantage of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_handlebar#Drop&quot;&gt;standard drop bar&lt;/a&gt; is that it offers you multiple hand positions and multiple postures.  In a sprint, or driving into a headwind, riding fully on the drops cuts wind resistance, but for less intense riding one of the several hand position on the top bar or on the hoods is usually preferred.  And on long rides the ability to change positions from time to time is invaluable in terms of hand/arm/back comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there is no one &quot;right&quot; height for your bar.  If you're a real aggressive rider (and young and limber) then a lower bar position may be for you, but if you're somewhat more casual there's nothing wrong with raising the bar (so to speak).  And you may also want to consider adjusting your &quot;reach&quot; by changing the stem -- not everyone's torso is the same length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T12:15:53.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7821" CreationDate="2012-01-24T13:31:41.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest two &quot;first things&quot; to do, having had these problems myself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to change the lenghth of cockpit, first via saddle fore-aft then via stem length. It is important, first of all, to find the proper position of your saddle fore-aft respective to your pedals, so you are not thrown backwards or forwards when you pedal hard while seated. Sometimes even a low handlebar might be comfortable if you have enough &quot;lever&quot; to pull your torso up with your legs (that would be when you are not too forward in the saddle). If even this don't make you feel fine, perhaps try to bring your handlebar closer to you with a short stem (useful to correct the &quot;superman&quot; feeling of reaching too long) or farther away with a longer stem (useful to correct the &quot;over the handlebar&quot; feeling, which is not good for wrists and shoulders).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to heighten your stem and bar. Since I started doing so, raising a bit each month, I'm still wanting more and more. It doesn't make you anti-aerodynamic at all, and the positive effect of being comfortable and restfull over a bike is much greater than the not-so-great aerodynamic difference of an ultra-low handlebar (except if you are an athlete, of course). If you are getting old (which mean over 28 :o( then you should consider to give up on those &quot;super sporty&quot; setups which are common on road race bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, perhaps your back hurts when you ride, but it &quot;is being hurted&quot; during other times of day, like sitting in the office, running, watching TV or even sleeping. Try to watch yourself during the day, to check if there is some bad postural habit you might eliminate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T13:31:41.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7780" CreationDate="2012-01-24T13:47:12.407" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pedestrians can move quite quickly as well!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes commute to work by running (having left kit at work) rather than cycling (also in central London, UK). There have been numerous times when I've been crossing a road with a green man and I've nearly been taken out by a cyclist doing exactly what you propose. Their erroneous judgement was obviously that no-one would be crossing the road at the speed I was going, and mine that the cyclist would stop! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be other times when you don't judge correctly who will cross, and at what speed, so quite apart from it being illegal, it's bad cycling because you are putting people at risk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T13:47:12.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-24T15:43:44.570" Score="13" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started cycling with a racebike. I still have some questions concerning ladies biking and personal health issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do find very little information about ladies and biking. I kind of want to know what to look for when shopping for clothing. Is there need for a special bra when you're constantly bend forward on a racebike? Are there things I need to watch out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly I have some questions concerning my back and head. I suffer from migraines (about two a week) and my left shoulder is blocked sometimes. I was questioning if racing would affect this in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a ladies racebike fitted on my size, been to a person who put my steer and sadle at the right height, changed my steer pen to a longer one and fitted the clickpedals just about right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3336" LastEditorUserId="3336" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T07:37:45.133" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T07:37:45.133" Title="Ladies and cycling" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7830" CreationDate="2012-01-24T15:58:35.467" Score="6" ViewCount="10454" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jockey wheels seem like the most pointless thing to upgrade on a bike. I can see swapping out the usual grey ceramic jockey wheels for an anodized alloy one to match the look of the rest of the bike, but I can't see any possible performance related reason to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they aid in shifting quality at all? I know that dura-ace and ultegra derailleurs use jockey wheels with bearings instead of bushings to improve durability, but they still use ceramics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any benefit of using the alloy jockey wheels?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ud8wR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T21:36:07.283" Title="Is there any functional point of using alloy jockey wheels?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7826" CreationDate="2012-01-24T16:24:48.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you have written, I could give these advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ladies use to bike a lot, since the dawn of the bike ages, and there seems not to be a significant difference on the bicycle itself. If a bike is properly fit to the rider, any style or level of activity may be performed for both women or men.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling is not the &quot;worst&quot; sport regarding breast discomfort. Running, for example, would require firmer bras. I don't see the girls on my riding group complaining so much about bra, but from buttocks, which would require comfortable &quot;sports&quot; underpants and most probably a nice padded cycling short, which are the &quot;default&quot; cycling wear anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are starting, and with so many doubts, perhaps RACING is not the best activity for you. Maybe you should get a more comfortable city bike (higher handlebars, larger saddle, wider tires, more gears) and get some exercise, improving your cardio and postural endurance BEFORE starting to actually race or train hard. Migraine and shoulder problems are a good indicative you should consider NOT to start with a racing bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have health problems, you should take extra care, perhaps go to a sports doctor, sports teacher or physical therapist to get some advice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides that, cycling is a very nice, traditional and healthy activity, and if you don't demand too hard on yourself, there is no big mystery or over-complication about taking the bike out and just ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T16:24:48.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7828" CreationDate="2012-01-24T16:29:42.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The material itself is not so important, I think, but for sure the alloy jockeys last longer than plastic ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides that, the main adventage comes with the (often coming together with alloy pulleys) BEARING you already mentioned. Besides eliminating lateral play and so improving shifting precision (in my perception), they also decrease rolling resistance and improve drivetrain efficiency. Finally, these bearings &lt;strike&gt;work better&lt;/strike&gt; suffer less without lube (don't wear out inside like plastic pulleys), and require much less lubing in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, these are my insights. Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T17:46:51.507" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T17:46:51.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7826" CreationDate="2012-01-24T16:49:52.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First and foremost you just need to be comfortable.  This means, among other things, avoiding clothes that chafe when doing the sort of riding &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; do.  (Note that this means you may need different clothes for different types/durations of riding.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your shoulder problem you probably need a more &quot;relaxed&quot; riding position -- this may mean (compared to &quot;normal&quot;) the seat slightly more forward, the handlebar raised, and a stem with a shorter forward extension (to bring the handlebar closer to you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both men and women have unique issues with regard to the pubic area.  These can be partly addressed by using the proper seat (which varies not only with gender but with the detailed geometry of the pelvis, etc).  Additionally, proper undergarments (or simply padded shorts) are important for longer rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, as Heltonbiker suggests, don't over-complicate things.  Other than shoes and maybe bike shorts, start with what's in your closet and add individual items as you find a need for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T16:49:52.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7834" CreationDate="2012-01-24T18:21:47.097" Score="11" ViewCount="14117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen chains with so many colours, white, red, you name it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to give it a try (this paint job is intended for visual styling of the bike, nothing related to protecting it), but I have no clue on how to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there must be a way to paint it without &quot;glueing&quot; the links with paint, I don't know if spray paint does that or not... I'm sure I need to degrease it first, but then what follows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I paint a chain without ruining it? (the painted chain needs to be in working conditions, it will be used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T10:11:51.610" Title="how do I paint a bicycle chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7832" CreationDate="2012-01-24T18:37:10.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I imagine the homegrown process would look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take chain apart&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean links thoroughly &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mask any metal to metal contact points on links&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use airbrush or other spray paint on exposed portions. Apply as many coats as necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reassemble chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-grease chain &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine the manufactures process would look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint one side of sheet metal used for chain links&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manufacture chain as usual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the manufacturing process is much easier I think it may be more worthwhile to just &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=colored+bike+chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;purchase one.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T00:38:02.047" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T00:38:02.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7832" CreationDate="2012-01-24T19:09:01.043" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think @freiheit already said it: paint the outside of the outer links!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride single/fixed, this part of the links never touch anything else, so the paint does not wear out neither damage other working parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would do it degreasing the chain very well (boiling with soap in the end, perhaps) and then using a hard foam paint roller, with the chain over the ground with its side facing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind paying for the job, most the colored chains I've seen in google seem to be powder-coated (electrostatic) or anodized. This would give a probably good result, but I think you wouldn't want to pay the price :oP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T19:09:01.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7828" CreationDate="2012-01-24T19:49:08.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone who has given numerous dérailleurs smacks against rocks, which were light enough impacts to just be able to bend the cage back, but strong enough to split the jockey wheel - I'd say yes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T19:49:08.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2012-01-24T20:23:18.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're thinking about wearing a ski helmet for biking, for what it's worth the Snell RS-98 recreational skiing and B-95 biking helmet standards are nearly identical, word for word, including things like visibility requirements and anatomical coverage. There are some small differences in the drop test. The energy of the flat anvil drop test in the B-95 standard is 110J vs. 100J for the RS-98 ski standard.  The hemispherical anvil drop test is 80 J for RS-98 and 72 for B-95. Bike helmets are tested against the point of a right angle &quot;kerbstone&quot; anvil, but ski helmets are tested against an &quot;edge anvil&quot; 6.3mm wide -- basically a decapitating machine -- and at higher forces than the kerbstone test too. Both bike and ski helmets have to be tested after being chilled and soaked, but bike helmets have to be tested after being cooked at 50 C (122 F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasonable conclusion is that a Snell certified ski helmet is probably a suitable choice for winter biking, but should not be used after exposure to extreme heat.  Yes, a certified ski helmet &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; pass the 100J flat anvil test but not the 110 J test, but it probably does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for ASTM 2040, who can say? It's not available for free inspection. But it appears that the requirements for recreational ski helmets and bike helmets are pretty close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3340" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T20:23:18.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7828" CreationDate="2012-01-24T21:34:37.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could see the scenario of riding in really sandy gritty condition where grit might become embedded into the plastic and be transfered to the chain. I have noticed that after cleaning they still have a rough texture.Even if the allloy jockey wheels were softer than the abrasive grit the anodized finish would take a while to wear off. You would also benefit from the bearing being held in position against a machined surface versus a less accurate molded surface&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T21:34:37.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7821" CreationDate="2012-01-24T22:02:42.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I myself did not rediscover cycling until I was past fifty, I have found that some things get easier with time in the saddle and some things don't. I have consigned myself to not ride a drop bar bike again. Trying to lift my head high enough to see through my bifocals was too uncomfortable. I talked to friends and borrowed all manner of bars and stems looking for a good comfotable fit. I settled for flat bars with barend extensions to give me some position variations. I may not be aerodynamic or stylish but I am comfortable and pain free. Don't be afraid to defy covention as long as it works. Don't forget to consider your hands in the equation. Is a small bar diameter causing your wrist to hurt making you put more load on your back and neck? Gloves have too much or to little padding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T23:46:30.767" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T23:46:30.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7780" CreationDate="2012-01-25T00:08:29.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first time you do it, it's an exception. No other bike close to you, no car to see, no pedestrian too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second time there are few pedestrians, but you take care, and you expect the other traffic to act correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third time you're in a rush, and do, what you're used to do: wild cross, ignoring the rules. You don't have a reserve. It only works, if the others stay to the rules, and you're the only anarchist. These cyclists are unpredictable. Just yesterday I had again a nearby accident. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a selfish habit to expect others to take care on you, to obey the rules, so that you can go faster or more comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Germany, only the children are allowed to use pedestrian ways with bikes. But we have a lot of children in the age of 20, 40 and 60. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1063" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T00:08:29.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7848" CreationDate="2012-01-25T03:47:00.870" Score="3" ViewCount="4082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an aksium wheel that is somewhat damged. I'd estimate that there is about 3 - 4mm of hop (meaning that the rim extends at this point? or that there is impact damage at that point?) at one point in the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, how much hop means that an aluminum is too damaged to repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T08:21:18.217" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T20:07:17.637" Title="How much hop is correctable, and beyond which point should a rim be replaced?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7849" CreationDate="2012-01-25T04:05:22.400" Score="2" ViewCount="824" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much maintenance and what is it specifically that needs attention on 2006 - 2010 Santa Cruz Bur VPP rear linkage mountain bikes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im looking to buy a used Blur XC, but I hear they need a lot of upkeep. Just wondering what. Is it just a lube and clean situation? or replacing bushings on a yearly basis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T07:38:48.293" Title="Santa Cruz Blur linkage maintence" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7841" CreationDate="2012-01-25T04:18:03.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;hop&quot; do you mean a dip or a lump?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, in any case, a standard spoked wheel with at least, say, 28 spokes and that much deviation can be made true with sufficient effort -- I've certainly fixed worse on 36-spoke wheels.  You get down to 20 spokes (which is apparently what the Aksium has) and it's iffier -- probably difficult to do without special tools to press out the bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T04:18:03.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7821" CreationDate="2012-01-25T05:01:17.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you haven't gotten the bike fit to you yet. Most bike shops will have someone who can do that for you. The bike shop can also help you get the right bar stem combo that will hopefully help your back issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2817" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T05:01:17.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7847" CreationDate="2012-01-25T05:57:44.530" Score="1" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I use spacer on CS-7800 who is being installed on WH-7900 ?&#xA;Or just install the cassete without 0.5mm spacer ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers and thank you..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T06:11:49.240" Title="Cassete spacer for CS 7800 and WH 7900" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7846" CreationDate="2012-01-25T06:11:49.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano Dura Ace wheels do not require the extra spacer behind the cassette that every other wheel requires. So, no the 7900 wheel should not require a spacer with the 7800 cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T06:11:49.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7841" CreationDate="2012-01-25T06:42:46.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends on the reason for the &quot;hop&quot; and your desire for perfection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wheel which is out of round due to incorrect spoke tension, rather than impact damage to the rim, will have no trouble being repaired, even with far greater than 3-4mm of deviation by detensioning all the spokes, and re-tensioning them evenly, essentially re-building the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wheel which is out of round due to impact can be made round with that much deviation, or more, but it requires having the spoke tension be unbalanced. If the spoke tension on a wheel is unbalanced by more than a few percentage points, then the wheel will not remain true and round. It may, however, remain safe to ride, and only require more maintenance than normal to keep it straight and round, or it may not be safe at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is something only a skilled mechanic or wheel builder can tell you, and only after re-tensioning the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it is a factory built wheel, I assume either that you tried to true and tension it yourself, or that there is impact damage, because it should be round from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-01-26T04:28:14.700" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T04:28:14.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7842" CreationDate="2012-01-25T07:38:48.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No more than any other full floater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bearings are sealed so they should only need replacing every few years or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bushes usually last a year, but you can feel their state by any 'knocking' when you take pressure off the wheels, or by trying to bend the swingarm laterally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stripping down the frame and regreasing the pivots won't do any harm, but certainly isn't necessary - I find it just makes getting the bearings out easier when they need replacing.  Admittedly, after a wash I put a few drips of thick 3-in-1 oil inbetween each pivot - truthfully I have no idea if this does anything, but it probably stops water sitting in the bearing cavities for long periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for any other sealed bearing do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; spray GT85, WD40, or any other water displacing fluid into them.  They come pre-greased, and if the seal fails, it needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T07:38:48.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="518" CreationDate="2012-01-25T13:07:46.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battersea Park in London has these for rental for both adults/kids. It's only for riding around the park, but this is probably a safer place to experiment on than London's roads...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3344" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T13:07:46.470" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-25T13:07:46.470" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7853" CreationDate="2012-01-25T17:22:05.140" Score="2" ViewCount="1699" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I grab my [suspension] forks tightly and push against the wheel sideways, there is a slight amount (few millimeters on 26&quot; wheel) of play/wobble from the axle/hub. The QR is done up tightly. Is this normal or does it require a hub service?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T18:05:48.623" Title="Small amount of wobble in wheel" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7851" CreationDate="2012-01-25T17:28:48.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably require some hub service. It's likely that your bearings are worn and / or your cones are loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T17:28:48.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7851" CreationDate="2012-01-25T18:05:48.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can feel any play (&quot;rattling&quot; sensation) at all in the wheel bearings, headset bearings, or crank bearings, then they need to be adjusted at the very least (and may need rebuilding).  (But please do make a distinction between movement due to looseness in the bearings and simple flexing of the wheel or other parts because you're pressing on it so hard.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting is something you can do yourself with a few inexpensive tools, a little mechanical ability, and some practice, but you won't get it right the first several times you try, so best go to your local bike shop unless you really want to learn how to do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard loose-ball wheel bearings need adjustment every 3000 miles or so, and should be rebuilt (cleaned, new grease, and possibly new balls) roughly every 10 thousand (or more often, if subjected to severe conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T18:05:48.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7301" CreationDate="2012-01-26T02:37:47.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you ride or race a fixed-gear or single-speed bike, the leg strength needed by a cyclist who rides a geared bike is actually quite moderate. In a physiological context strength is defined as the maximum force that you are able to produce, which occurs at close to the point when your muscles are stationary. Even most otherwise healthy non-athletes can leg press around 1.4x their weight at &quot;1RM&quot; (for &quot;one rep max&quot;). On a geared bicycle when you're not trying to sprint away from a dead stop typical pedal forces are closer to the equivalent of around 20% of body weight, way below 1RM. Occasionally, when in a standing start, riders will apply up to 1.2x their body weight on the pedals (this obviously requires pulling up on the handlebars) but this is not sustainable for more than a few pedal strokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, unless you are recovering from injury or have some other obvious motor skill issue, strength is rarely the limitation to improved cycling. Cycling is an aerobic endurance sport, which is why most professional cyclists more closely resemble ectomorphic marathoners than endomorphic weight lifters, and why doping with EPO (which increases oxygen transport) is more ergogenic than doping with anabolic steroids. The obvious exception is track sprinters, where the the intensity and short duration of the race select for cyclists who resemble their sprinter counterparts in track-and-field. See, for example, images of the legs of track sprinter &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?&amp;amp;site=imghp&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;source=hp&amp;amp;biw=1006&amp;amp;bih=544&amp;amp;q=robert%20forstemann%20legs&amp;amp;gs_l=img.3..0j0i5.5039.11219.0.15238.24.17.1.6.6.1.154.1782.4j13.17.0...0.0...1ac.1.b6ASApoqd2o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robert Forstemann&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the key to improved cycling is increased power, not increased strength per se. Power is the product of pedal force and pedal speed. The best strength training you can do to improve your cycling is to do many (many) repetitions at relatively high muscle contraction and flexion speeds at relatively low force. This is not the typical kind of strength training that one performs in a gym with weights -- the muscle speeds are too low and the force loads are too high. A better example of the appropriate speed/force range is interval training on your bike. Thus, most exercise physiologists (and a many cycling coaches) believe the best way to attain the leg strength and leg speed appropriate to bicycle riding is to train on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To show that the strength demands of cycling are relatively modest, the panel plot below shows two extracts from a ride done by the same rider in the same day. The panels show the rider's speed, cadence, pedal force (in Newtons), and power. On the left side of the plot, in the black dots, is the acceleration away from a stop light, from 0 up to about 30 km/h; on the right side, in red, is an acceleration later in the same ride from about 30 km/h to 60 km/h. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y91Fx.png&quot; alt=&quot;max power doesn&amp;#39;t occur at max pedal force&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, notice that in accelerating from a stop, the rider hit a maximum pedal force of around 800 N, which is equivalent to just a bit more than the rider's weight (obviously, the rider must have been pulling up or bracing against the handlebars in order to do this). Notice, too, that the maximum power attained during this standing start acceleration was about 600 watts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now turn your attention to the red dots. In this case, the rider was coasting along at about 30 km/h so the cadence, pedal force, and power all began at zero. Suddenly cadence jumped from zero to about 100 rpm, then maximized at around 130. Pedal force hit a peak at about 600 N (that is, about 75% of the maximum force during the standing start). The combination of pedal force and pedal speed produced a maximum power of around 1100 watts. The plot below shows the same points, keyed in the same black and red colors, with rpm and pedal force displayed on the axes. Since power is the product of pedal force and pedal speed, &quot;isopower contours&quot; appear as hyperbolas in the plot: four isopower contours are shown at 250, 500, 750, and 1000 watts. The points at which pedal force, power, and speed each attain their maximums are identified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3pY0.png&quot; alt=&quot;rpm, pedal force, and power&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The take-away message is that cycling is an aerobic sport and (unless you ride a fixed gear or single-speed bike) even under maximum acceleration the strength demands are relatively moderate. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aboc.com.au/tips-and-hints/why-we-dont-use-strength-endurance-anymore&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/fitness/?id=strengthstern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for more discussion of the magnitude of forces concerned, muscle fiber type recruitment, and physiological characteristics of elite riders. Accordingly, the best &quot;strength training&quot; you can do to improve your cycling is to do your strength training on your bike. There are reasons why one might want to do weight-lifting or other &quot;strength&quot; training off the bike (for bone health, for appearance, for injury prevention, etc.) but &lt;em&gt;as far as cycling is concerned&lt;/em&gt; do your strength training on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2012-10-07T07:31:23.093" LastActivityDate="2012-10-07T07:31:23.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7861" CreationDate="2012-01-26T04:29:48.237" Score="7" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, if you keep it in a garage or in basement, I am thinking the tires might lose air and then the wheel will pressure down the tire. So do you need to check the bike once in awhile and inflate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1433" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T12:26:08.680" Title="If you keep a bike inside for months in a row, do you have to check it?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7855" CreationDate="2012-01-26T04:40:00.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if your bike is stored for more than a few weeks, you should check it thoroughly before riding it. The tires will lose pressure, and the chain will need lube for certain, and depending on the length of storage, rubber components like brake pads, tires, and hydraulic seals may degrade. In addition, surface rust, and sometimes deeper corrosion can develop which would require a more complete service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T04:40:00.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7862" CreationDate="2012-01-26T11:15:33.337" Score="5" ViewCount="11687" Body="&lt;p&gt;How accurate are the power numbers (watts) from a Tacx Flow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple aspects :&#xA;Absolute number : can they be compared with numbers from other power meters ?&#xA;Relative : if ride two times at 200 W for one hour then did I do the same effort ?&#xA;During a ride: if I start at 200 W and after an hour am still riding at 200W then do I still do the same effort ?&#xA;Are the numbers still the same after using the same Tacx Flow a couple of years ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="656" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-01-26T18:48:52.507" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T08:45:32.603" Title="How accurate are the power numbers from a Tacx Flow?" Tags="&lt;indoor&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7855" CreationDate="2012-01-26T11:34:07.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zenbike covered it, but I would also add (would comment but don't have enough rep yet!) that:&#xA;- Organic Disk Brake pads can become degraded over time, especially if the bike is stored in a oily fumey environment.&#xA;- In our garage / outhouse we have a problem with mice chewing through cables.. any cables they can find.. nom nom nom yummy rubber!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with most things, regular short usage is better than no usage at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T11:34:07.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7858" CreationDate="2012-01-26T12:08:56.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tacx Power measurement is accurate in terms of consistency, meaning 200w on Sunday is 200w on Monday, as long as your trainer is set up consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is generally showing a higher number than most other Power meters. My Powertap and my Fortius, when run concurrently differ by about 10%. As for long term accuracy, I've had my Fortius three years. I do have to recalibrate occassionally, but it not difficult, and seems consistent otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they both (when in functional, operating condition, something that the Powertap seems to struggle to maintain) seem to always differ by 10%. So the training method is accurate with each separately. I don't mix numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking forward to trying the Garmin Power Pedals. Tacx is supposed to allow an ANT+ reading from them directly, rather than using calculated methods to provide power readings, and I think that will be both more consistent and more accurate, if the quality is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T12:08:56.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7855" CreationDate="2012-01-26T12:26:08.680" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm gonna sorta disagree with Zen on this one.  If you're talking months vs years, and the bike was stored inside in a location where condensation would not have occurred (eg, not in a cold corner of a basement in a humid climate), and the bike was in good condition when stored, then all you need to do is air up the tires and wipe the dust off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires and brake pads won't rot overnight, the lube won't leap off the chain.  Properly lubed bearings won't corrode.  Disk brake rotors (and caliper brake rims) may develop a slight coating of oxidation, but that will be worn off in the first ten miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's been stored for several years, however, you may want to squirt a little oil on the chain and give it an extra wipe, both to get the dust off and because oil does &lt;em&gt;slowly&lt;/em&gt; evaporate.  And check the tires and brake pads for rot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once or twice a year a bike should get its cables lubed, and the chain should be cleaned and reoiled every 200 miles or so (or at least once a year).  This is unrelated to how long it's been stored, but a good time to do this is when you take the bike out of winter storage (though a better time is before you put it into winter storage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T12:26:08.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7858" CreationDate="2012-01-26T13:47:44.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Flow appears to be quite consistent though, depending on the mode in which it is used, it can be quite inaccurate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a plot of reported power for speed on the Flow, with each line representing a different &quot;scale factor.&quot; All of these data were collected at a coast down calibration of 0, with the same tire, at the same ambient room temperature; however, the red dots represent data that were collected 4 months later than the black dots. As can be seen, when conditions are matched, the consistency of the Flow appears to be quite good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPA6P.png&quot; alt=&quot;Consistency of the Tacx Flow trainer over 4 months&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plot above compares the Flow to itself. Similar to what zenbiker has noted above for the Tacx Fortius, when compared against an on-bike power meter the Flow tends to underreport -- though as one might expect from the plot above it underreports consistently. In my own case, with my own tires, a better agreement between the Flow and a Power Tap (which had been statically-checked for accuracy) could be achieved with a coast down calibration of 4 and a scale factor of 120, though I suspect that could differ from tire to tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A greater problem for the Flow is its ability to adjust load while in &quot;ergo&quot; mode. In that case, one sets the power level and then, in theory at least, one can pedal at different cadences and speeds while the Flow adjusts the load to keep power constant. Sadly, here the Flow was overmatched. The plot below shows the percent error for three different scale factors (80, 100, and 120) when plotted against the ratio of &quot;ergo power&quot; to speed. That is, suppose you set the Flow to hold its power in ergo mode at 250 watts and pedaled at 20 km/h, then 30 km/h, then 40 km/h, and so on. The ratio of ergo power to speed (in km/h) would be 12.5, 8.3, 6.25, and so on. If the Flow were able to adjust its load at different wheel speeds, each group of points would be horizontal and parallel, and, in an ideal world one could adjust the scale factor to move some group of points up or down until it hovered over the zero error line. Why look at the ratio of power to speed? Power is the product of wheel speed and wheel torque (and a constant) so dividing the ergo power setting by wheel speed gives the torque at the Flow's roller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K9URa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ergo mode error in Tacx Flow&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you will see is that the groups of points are far from horizontal so the error between the power desired and actual power (as measured with a Power Tap) is not at all constant. At high wheel speeds the Flow is unable to generate enough load to maintain constant power. Whether that inability is related to the load generator itself (which is also used in the I-Magic) or the Flow's control head, I could not determine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2012-01-26T18:33:03.433" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T18:33:03.433" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7864" CreationDate="2012-01-26T20:15:49.133" Score="12" ViewCount="7064" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is simple.  Do I need to oil a chain on a single speed bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2528" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T19:44:59.163" Title="Should I Oil A Single Speed Chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7863" CreationDate="2012-01-26T20:29:59.890" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You should follow the normal guidelines for oiling your chain. If it is squeaking, you know you've left it too long. Do the following every two or three weeks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thoroughly clean the chain with some degreaser.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it dry off. If the new lube comes into contact with degreaser, they won't be happy with one another, and the lubrication will not be as good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply one drop of chain lube to each bushing on your chain. Apply these on the bottom run of the chain, below the chain stay. Gravity and the centrifugal force in step four will help to work the lube into where it needs to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the bike sit for a minute, then spin the pedals for 2 or three minutes. Be careful while spinning the pedals, especially on single-speed drive chains there is a real risk of injury from getting a finger stuck between the chain and the chainring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean as much lubricant off the chain as you can. It only needs to be inside the bushings. Any left on the outside of the chain will pick up debris and increase wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T20:29:59.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7868" CreationDate="2012-01-26T22:55:59.270" Score="3" ViewCount="3296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a beat-up old mountain bike for commuting. I've tried to clean and adjust the derailleurs and everything seems to work well enough in my garage. But when I put heavy weight on the pedals (say, starting across an intersection after a stop light) the rear gear momentarily derails with a crash (or do you say the chain derails?), I flounder for a second, there's another ugly clashing sound, and then things go back to normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that I can adjust my way out of or more likely an indication of a worn-out part? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1710" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T17:41:16.777" Title="What causes my chain to derail at the rear when I accelerate?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4656" CreationDate="2012-01-27T02:45:46.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84Wczsi4vHg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This 7-minute video&lt;/a&gt; gives an explanation of bicycle stability, discussing gyroscopic, caster, and steering effects. In particular, it shows examples of (riderless) bicycles that can balance even when one or more of the sources of stability are canceled out. Thus, there are several design features that enable stability -- including the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T02:45:46.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7865" CreationDate="2012-01-27T09:31:26.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;another possible reason and something to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience - Stiff chain. Often an old chains become stiff, in that the links are not very free to rotate around their pins. This means that if you bend the chain around something (jockey wheels on the derailleur for example), it will want to stay in that shape until straightened out. When you accelerate you are effectively feeding a lot of chain to the bottom of the derailleur and cassette / rear cluster quickly, and if the chain is stiff, it'll miss several of the teeth and jump about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T09:31:26.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7865" CreationDate="2012-01-27T14:56:22.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the combination of your chain and cassette / sprocket are at the end of their lives. Examine them for signs of wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check a cassette for wear, look for pointy teeth. A non-worn cassette will have teeth with a fairly flat ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A worn cassette will have teeth that have become pointier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check your chain for wear, ideally you'd use a chain wear tool to check how much your bushings have been worn away. If you don't have one of these tools, you can kindof tell when a chain is worn out because it will feel like the bushings are a bit loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, a drivetrain generally wears out at around 10000 kms (~6000 miles). You can rack this amount up pretty quickly as a regular commuter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T19:57:29.307" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T19:57:29.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2012-01-27T18:03:01.027" Score="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted above, part of the ranking of a climb depends on its placement within a stage: usually, the ending climb of a stage gets &quot;bumped up&quot; by a category. You can see that in the plots below, which show climbs as categorized by the organizers of the Tour de France itself for the 2012, 2007, 2005, and 2004 editions of the Tour, and plotted by the length of the climb and its average gradient. If given the length of the climb and gradient, you can calculate the total elevation change for that climb, and the dotted contour lines in each plot show that. Cat 2, 1, and HC climbs are named. For example, in 2004 the Vilard de Lans climb was classified at a Cat 2 climb rather than (evidently) a Cat 3 because it was the end of the stage. Similarly, in 2005 the climb to Pla d'Adet ended the stage, and it appears that its category was also increased from (arguably) Cat 1 to HC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, the Madeleine was climbed in both 2004 and 2005 but, as you can see, the length and gradient of the climbs were different in those years. In 2004, the Madeleine was climbed from the southern side; in 2005 and 2012, the approach to the Madeleine was from the north. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2oRye.png&quot; alt=&quot;categorized climbs for 2012 TdF&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KriWr.png&quot; alt=&quot;categorized climbs for 2007 TdF&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dtNQq.png&quot; alt=&quot;categorized climbs for 2005 TdF&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BsZMm.png&quot; alt=&quot;categorized climbs for 2004 TdF&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T08:07:07.750" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T08:07:07.750" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-27T19:28:53.773" Score="3" ViewCount="9019" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like I have a worn drive-train (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7865/what-causes-my-chain-to-derail-at-the-rear-when-i-accelerate&quot;&gt;sad trombone previous question&lt;/a&gt;) and should think about improving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a little leery about throwing good money after bad into a used bike. Must I buy a new drive-train as a whole or can I buy the components separately and see an improvement? If the latter, in what order should I buy components? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1710" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T22:48:56.990" Title="Can a worn drive-train be upgraded incrementally or should it be all at once?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7863" CreationDate="2012-01-27T19:44:59.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although wear and tear does not affect a single speed drivetrain perfomance to the extent it does a geared drivetrain, a little maintenance will provide your single speed with an even longer lifespan. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Lubricating the chain helps ease the movement of the pins, rollers, and plates of the chain, and will therefore increase the life of your chain. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abbeyclock.com/aoiltwo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Although this link is for a clock website&lt;/a&gt;, the images do a pretty good job of illustrating why lubricants are necessary in general. With no exceptions that immediately come to mind on a bicycle, anytime you have moving parts you are going to need some sort of lubrication. Gears or not, your chain should remain lubed.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As was pointed out by another answer, anytime you start to hear squeaks coming from your chain it's time to re-apply lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T19:44:59.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7874" CreationDate="2012-01-27T19:55:21.340" Score="10" ViewCount="5406" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are countless videos showing BMX/freeride/downhill etc. riders jumping and dropping from heights. For the unprofessional spectator, they seem impossible to survive.&#xA;From the physical point of view, the bike reaches the ground with a given kinetic energy which is dependent on the height of the drop and on the combined mass of the rider and the bike. Where is all this energy dissipated? I assume that most of this energy is absorbed in the bike, and some by the rider. How is this energy distributed in various components of the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2512" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-10T03:17:30.363" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T03:17:30.363" Title="How does a bike absorb all the energy in landing from a big drop?" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;physics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7870" CreationDate="2012-01-27T20:04:33.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on how worn out the drivetrain is. The best way to check this is by checking your chain with a chain gauge. If the gauge reads under 1.0 you might be alright with just changing the chain out. If it reads 1.0 or higher (ie the guage at its max reading easily fits onto your chain or even has some play) you probably have a toasted drivetrain.  That is not always the case - sometimes I'm surprised by how worn out a drivetrain can appear yet still be improved with a new chain. On the flipside, which is the more common side, if you have a chain that reads completely worn out chances are the rest of your drivetrain has worn with it and replacing the chain will only make things worse. You'll know pretty quickly if this is the case and if it is you'll to start replacing other components:&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace your chainrings if you chain jumps or chainsucks in the front. Sometimes you can get away with just replacing middle and/or small chainrings as the largest chainring tends nto to wear out as quickly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace your cassette if your chain jumps in the rear or shifts very poorly or both. With newer cassettes there is no option of chainging individual cogs. It's all or nothing.&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't own a chain gauge or you're unsure as to what components need to be replaced, find a good mechanic to inspect it for you. They should be able to diagnose your issues and suggest replacement parts as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T20:04:33.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7872" CreationDate="2012-01-27T20:50:42.813" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Physics!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Landing big jumps is all about dissipating the inertia that pesky old gravity has created on your trip back to earth. The better you dissipate that inertia, the better the chance that you wont kill yourself.&lt;br&gt; There are several factors in play here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Transition of the Landing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;The landing is almost always sloped downwards. Combine forward momentum with a downslope and you've got a significantly softer landing than you would landing on flat ground. That's one of the major reasons you see riders get hurt when they overshoot a landing transition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;A little bit of suspension goes a long way, and a lot of suspension goes even further. The amount of impact damping that even an inch of give will provide is enormous. Think about it in terms of what it feels like to fall backwards onto a mattress vs falling backwards into tall grass or snow, distance being equal. The give of the soft surfaces decreases your velocity and dissipates your inertia which is what keeps you from cracking your head open as you would on concrete. Big-hit bikes can have 8 or 10 inches (or more) of suspension travel. That's a lot of travel to dissipate an impact. Even the tires provide a little bit of squish which is especially important for BMX riders (and it's also why rigid mountain bike riders tend to run larger volume tires). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proper Landing (how you leverage your bike and the bike's suspension)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;Notice how most riders will land rear wheel down first, especially on flatter landings which are common in trials and street BMX. This further reduces impact because the rider can, in a way, leverage the give of the front and rear of the bike in succession. This is effective for both rigid and suspended bikes. By landing on the rear wheel first, you can use the bike as a lever of sorts - absorbing part of the impact and decreasing your body's velocity before the front wheel lands. This is achieved if your weight is balanced correctly by bracing against the pedals and handlebars. The effect is even greater for a bike with suspension. As the rear wheel hits, the rear shock soaks up what it can, then the front wheel comes down and the fork soaks up even more. Compare this to landing totally flat (both wheels at the same time) where the bike will provide roughly only as much suspension as the averaged travel of the combination of the front and rear shocks, or for a rigid bike, only as much as the tires would give (ouch!). Landing rear wheel first doesn't mean you get double the travel, but it certainly gives the bike more time to dissipate the force of the landing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Knees and Elbows (even more suspension)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;Really, this includes most of your joints - any part of the body that can flex and move to soak up the impact. You don't see riders taking big jumps and landing seated. That's because they're using their arms and legs to take up as much of the impact as they can that the bike couldn't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you combine all of these elements in harmony you've got a really substantial amount of movement, and although it only takes a fraction of a second to land a big jump, it's enough time to slow down a rider's mass and keep them from becoming a grease spot at the bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sObA-T07znM&quot;&gt;The Tooney Drop&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T21:27:57.857" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T21:27:57.857" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7870" CreationDate="2012-01-27T21:37:30.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need to change your chain due to wear then expect to get a new freewheel cassette too as the wear on the teeth in the back are going to cause issues in the smaller cogs.  However you could try it with just a new chain at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep things cheap, you might be able to get the bike shop to change out the smaller cogs but I think many cassettes are one piece so you might not have a choice about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front chain rings can &lt;strong&gt;sometimes&lt;/strong&gt; just be reversed so the shark toothing isn't an issue for now but new rings are going to be needed.  Some rings won't allow you to do the flip so be aware of that.  Lots of rings have chain climbing stuff built in to help with the ring changes.  If yours does then get new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T21:37:30.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7872" CreationDate="2012-01-27T22:49:09.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already stated by jm2...there are many reasons riders can take bigger drops.  However as your question was how is it distributed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the swing arm for an example...vertical impact of the bike causes the rear lower stay to move upwards from the pivot point at the crank.  That movement (force) is redirected to the upper rear stay and transferred to the shock that absorbs the majority of the force before finally transferring the last amount to the seat tube at a perpendicular angle to the rider not up through the rider.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why the full force isn't placed directly on the riders legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The geometry is what's splitting the lion's share out to 10 inch shocks which allow the rider to drop 20 feet without destroying the bike first and then being left with a much smaller amount of energy to suck up in his/her legs and arms.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T22:49:09.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7870" CreationDate="2012-01-27T23:01:21.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others may disagree with me on this, but I feel that, if the sprockets are usable at all, it never hurts to try simply installing a new chain.  Yes, the chain will likely wear faster, but chains aren't that expensive, and &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; you'll get at least marginally better behavior than with the old chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's usually safe to replace a worn rear cluster without replacing the front chainrings.  The rear cluster usually wears about twice as fast as the chainrings, so the front may still have some life in it.  (And the chainrings can be replaced one at a time -- no point in replacing your small ring, eg, if you never use it and it's not worn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But never replace cluster or chainrings without replacing the chain (unless it's relatively new and tests OK with a chain gauge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can lengthen the life of your sprockets by replacing the chain at relatively frequent intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T23:01:21.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-27T23:52:44.117" Score="2" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tire was flat and I could not fix it, so I had to carry the bike all the way. How could I have fixed it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3354" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-01-28T18:30:17.420" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T19:50:48.260" Title="How could I have fixed a flat tire?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-28T13:49:38.710" Score="2" ViewCount="1883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a non-expert bike rider. I keep my bike in a closed storage during the winter and ride during the summer. Do I need to do some kind of maintenance at the beginning of each summer? Is it safe to start riding directly when the summer begins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3355" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T04:14:24.167" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T17:20:49.867" Title="How often should I have maintenance for my bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7870" CreationDate="2012-01-28T14:36:31.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of truth in all other answers so far. This being a somewhat complex matter, but considering it's perhaps the biggest operational cost of a bicycle (the other would be new tubes), I want to offer my cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all: The chain has ALL responsibility for the wearing of the drivetrain. If you take new cogs and rings with an old chain, the drivetrain will be destroyed VERY quickly. But taking worn-out cogs and rings, and using them with a &quot;theoretical perfect chain&quot; which wouldn't wear out, would actually make the cogs and rings wear BACK to good: the teeth would be progressively thinner, but their profile ramp would be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens because a worn chain, having a greater distance between pins, touches &quot;higher&quot; on the teeth and creates a ramp (sharktooth) profile, causing a new chain to skip. A new chain, in the other hand, always touches the bottom of the teeth, then wearing them out by &quot;thinning&quot;, instead of &quot;ramping&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An excellent text about chain wear and wear measurement can be found here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is: usually you can ride sligtlhy worn cog with slightly worn chain, but sometimes you cannot ride wlightly worn cog with NEW chain, because the chain skips. It depends how much the cog is worn. The same might happen with chainrings, but it is much more rare and usually happens only when the bike is seriously neglected (and seriously ridden!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, answering your question, I propose this &quot;plan&quot; to extract every kilometer a drivetrain can give, with the least money spent. Some tips might require boring manual labor, so you should measure this cost, too. In the other hand, I feel &quot;wrong&quot; throwing away a part which I know is still usable. The planet thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the chain for a new one. Always replace chain first. Never replace anything else before putting a new chain. Chain must be new. There's no need to remove the &quot;glue&quot; it comes with, neither add another lube (this is objectionable, but I think a bit of initial wear and settling - if any - of the new components is more good than harm).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the chain skips in the rear, you can take the following approaches, in that order:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride slowly at first, and wait for the said settling down of components. This means the old cog should wear a bit and regain its proper shape. This requires a lot of patience, sometimes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a not-so-worn-out chain (read below), you can install it and ride with it for a while. Then you can install the new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not number 1 or 2, replace the cogs and rest your mind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disregarding the rear cogs, if the front chainrings skip, first and foremost REGRET A LOT, then do one of the following approaches, in that order:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flip the ring inside out if possible, or if you don't want to perform the (preferrable) next step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disassemble the ring, take a round file, and remove a bit of the base of each tooth, yelding the proper round base and vertical tooth end (and not the ugly sawtooth shape it has now it's worn-to-the-core). This sounds odd, but works like a charm, is easy to do. The same approach might help for the rear cogs, but requires Heavy Wizardry on Metal Handcrafting (I saved a lot of expensive clusters this way, but my last attempts were not successful. I gave up buying expensive clusters anyway, but my old failed clusters are hidden here, waiting for &lt;em&gt;advances in technology&lt;/em&gt; to appear).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spend the bucks and sigh in relief.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to say everything on the subject hasn't been said, let's suppose you finally reached the dynamic equilibrium of replacing a chain each time it stretches by X per cent (it's not good measuring on KM ridden. It is always adviseable to measure distance between pins. The distance between 24 pins should be 12 inches.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would give you an absurdly long-lasting cogset and crankset. If you only ride dry on-road, 30 thousand kilometers are expected from them. BUT you end up with A LOT of chains which would look pretty much as new. And here comes the trick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to suck every possible cheapest kilometer from a drivetrain, at some moment you just stop buying new chains and START TO USE THE SAME (NOT SO) OLD CHAINS AGAIN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: if you replaced chains five times when they were, say, 1% stretched, you (still should) have five chains 1% stretched, and a &quot;1% stretch compatible&quot; drivetrain. Then you use the first chain until it is a bit more stretched, say, 2%, and replace for another 1% chain, until all the five chains AND the drivetrain are together at 2%. Get the idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, after many, many, MANY kilometers you'll end up with a crappy drivetrain with teeth so thin you could make ninja weapons with them. But that would be after destroying 5 chains, not one, and having made FIVE TIMES more distance for the buck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if the process is made with more chains, you get each time more kilometers per buck, with not so much work or patience required. Only an unusual dose of discipline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-01-28T14:41:40.733" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T14:41:40.733" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7872" CreationDate="2012-01-28T15:08:35.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mentioned KINETIC ENERGY, which obviously have to go somewhere. Sometimes you have reception, and the bike comes at speed, but sometimes, like in bike trial, the bike lands &quot;flat&quot; on plain concrete. Sometimes, too, freeriders land on flat concrete at speed, and at least the vertical component of the drop's kinetic energy disappears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say there are only three places where this energy can go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of it is neutralized by the decelerating forces created by the rider. The more techique and style, the greater amount of energy can be absorbed. Usually it means extensor muscles performing an excentric contraction (applying a force while being stretched, so as to deccelerate/oppose the joint movement). This implies energy expenditure by the muscle cells, which come from food calories. If the drop is high, most trial riders prefer to land rear first, so they have more time to act the same force, and more muscle groups to act during each portion of the landing (this is very fast, and has to do with well rehearsed skills).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a bike with suspension, A LOT of kinetic energy might &quot;disapear&quot; inside the dampers due to high-speed viscous flow of oil, which increases the oil temperature. Modern big travel extreme free-ride suspensions have a lot of oil inside, working with lower flow speeds (larger bores, larger valve holes) so that the oil doesn't reach too high temperatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, the deformation of tire/terrain interface might absorb a lot of energy, and decrease the peak-decceleration (impact) of a landing. Good landing examples would be soft beach sand, grass, and some types of mud.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to mention that rigid elements of bike (frame, wheels) don't take up the kinetic energy, only transmit forces to somewhere else. Also, just to add to what @jm2 said, the joints only transmit the forces and (fortunately) don't take up any significant amount of energy: the landing kinetic energy is couteracted by muscle contraction acting through the joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T15:08:35.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7879" CreationDate="2012-01-28T18:06:55.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have it looked over once decade, whether it needs it or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if nothing's giving you trouble, all you need to do is to air up the tires and put some chain oil (buy &quot;dry&quot; chain oil from a bike store) on your chain once or twice a season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming this is a multi-speed bike, to oil, first hold a rag on the chain and crank backwards to wipe off as much surface grime as possible.  Also wipe off the derailers.  Then slowly crank backwards while dribbling oil onto the chain.  Go over it 2-3 times.  Then wipe the chain again -- you only need oil on the INSIDE of the chain.  Finally, put a few drops of oil on the derailer idler pulley bearings and on the derailer pivots, and, again, wipe off any excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An occasional squirt of spray lube (eg, TriFlow) into the shifter/brake cable housings is also a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to check your air pressure at least every 3 days, or before each ride if longer.  It's a good idea to get a &quot;floor pump&quot; with a built-in pressure gauge -- much easier to use than compact pumps, and you'll not be so inclined to put it off as you would if you just use the gas station pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T18:06:55.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7878" CreationDate="2012-01-28T19:42:28.697" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it's a complicated question, because there are several different cases to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tire is simply flat because the air leaked out slowly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a hole in the tire due to a nail or thorn or shard of glass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a large hole or cut in the tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slow leak&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing you need is a pump.  Sometimes (but not usually) you can pump up the flat tire and it will hold air for 30 minutes or so, allowing you to ride home or at least letting you ride for several minutes before you stop and pump it up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hole&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal case is that there is no obvious damage to the tire, but when you try to pump it up it doesn't hold air.  Then you need the pump, &amp;quot;tire irons&amp;quot;, and either a patch kit or a spare inner tube.  You may also need wrenches to loosen your wheel, if it does not have a &amp;quot;quick release&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure is to remove the wheel from the bike, then use the tire &amp;quot;irons&amp;quot; (most of which now are actually made of plastic) to pry one side of the tire off the rim.  (This procedure is a bit more complicated than that statement -- it takes practice to do without damaging the inner tube further, and an entire article could be written on this topic alone.)  Then remove the inner tube from inside the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, even if you have a spare tube, it's wise to attempt to find the hole in the old tube and then look at that spot inside the tire to see if there's still a nail or thorn sticking through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Using spare tube&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, if you have a spare tube, you install it in place of the bad one (pump a little air into it first to make it round), use the tire irons to get the tire back on the rim, and then pump up the tire.  I like to pump it up once, deflate it, and then pump again, to help position the tube and &amp;quot;seat&amp;quot; the tire on the rim.  Once it's pumped up examine the wheel for any obvious lumps (indicating the tube may be twisted inside) and to see that the tire is evenly installed on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Using patch kit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a spare tube (but DO have a patch kit), you should attach your pump to the old one and try to pump it up.  Air will exit the leak, and you can hear/feel the air escaping.  Mark the hole somehow -- a pencil, a ballpoint pen, or a piece of chalk will work.  But note that you will be cleaning the area around the hole, so make marks well away from the hole that you can line up to locate the hole after cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the instructions that come with the patch kit.  Usually you clean around the hole using the sandpaper that comes in the patch kit, spread glue (also in the kit) around the hole and let it mostly dry, then attach the patch over the hole.  Then it's usually wise to wait 5-10 minutes before inflating (though during that period several times pressing the patch tightly against the tube).  It's probably a good idea to then inflate the tube a bit to be sure that there are no more holes and that you covered the one hole correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to spread some chalk powder or simply a bit of dust from the ground over the patch area to keep it from sticking to the inside of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reinstall the tube the same as with the spare tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Large hole&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you discover that you have a large hole or cut in the tire then it's necessary to use some sort of &amp;quot;boot&amp;quot; inside the tire, to keep the new/repaired tube from bulging through the hole.  Of course, some holes are simply too large for this to work, but usually it's worth a try regardless of how big the hole is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a boot you want a piece of thin but relatively stiff/strong material.  Special strips of reenforced rubber are sold at bike shops for this, or you can cut a section from the side of an old tire.  A popular technique in the US is to use a folded-up dollar bill -- the paper that the US dollar is made from is quite durable and stiff, and, if a relatively new bill is folded into four layers it works quite well for small or medium holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use the boot you get the tube repaired and installed, and just before you put the tire back on the rim you work the boot in between the tube and tire so that it covers the hole.  Then put the tire back on the rim and inflate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T19:50:48.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7879" CreationDate="2012-01-28T20:42:15.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bikes that stay some months without being used, just leaning against the wall (behing more bikes which are much more used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time I want to use them, I just go up and ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has giving me no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the right thing to do is to perform maintainence as needed. If there is nothing wrong with the bike when you store the bike, and nothing feels (or looks, or sounds) wrong, so there is no need to worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T20:42:15.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7911" CreationDate="2012-01-28T21:47:07.063" Score="2" ViewCount="29526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having pain on the sides of my feet (outside about midway back on the foot(. I was wearing a pair of Sidi's size 43. Went to a Specialized 44. Still have the pain, so I'm thinking it's something else, like how I have the cleats bolted on the shoes or even the pedals. How do I diagnose further? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2174" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T23:36:01.423" Title="Pain on the sides of my feet" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7885" CreationDate="2012-01-29T00:46:55.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shoe fit and the stiffness of the last are the first things that come to mind.  I'm thinking you have a wide foot and cycling shoes are typically on the narrow side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always had major issues with any shoe that was slightly too narrow for my foot.  I'd get cramping along the outside edge of my foot. It gets worse when the shoe becomes stiffer (It's just hell for me to wear X-country ski boots or hockey skates).  As cycling shoes are meant to be something akin to a block of wood, that means for me I need to be certain the shoe isn't too narrow or I'll be in pain really quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my road shoes, the size is such that I actually have a slight amount of heel slippage which allows my foot to flex a bit more than what typically would be expected.  With my Mtb shoes, I go for the freeride type of shoes which don't give nearly the same amount of energy transfer but my feet are way happier at the end of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a pair of Sidi shoes a few years back (Awesome construction) but found that even the Wide width was narrow and caused me pain after a few hours of riding. Specialized seem to fit narrow as well.  I've had to try on many a shoe to find a wide enough fit and usually I'm still left with having to go sockless just for a little bit extra comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get your foot sized by an expert and go from there.  If it's a width thing you'll know with numbers.  If it's something else then you can start to narrow things down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T00:46:55.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7888" CreationDate="2012-01-29T01:12:36.120" Score="1" ViewCount="2771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a used bmx bike and after raising the seat to a level where it is semi-comfortable to pedal while on the seat, I now find that the handlebars are too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any sort of an after market accessory I could buy that could raise the handle bars up several inches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;Here are some photos:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/c55Mv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/c55Mv&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3356" LastEditorUserId="3356" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T14:14:59.627" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T19:42:15.620" Title="Accessory to raise handlebars (on a bmx)" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7887" CreationDate="2012-01-29T02:12:12.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm presuming you've already raised the handlebar as much as the obvious adjustments will allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are solutions, but precisely which one depends on the style of the of the headset.  If you have an old style threaded headset then you need to replace the quill/stem with a new, taller one.  You can often, at the same time, get one that changes the &quot;reach&quot; of the bar, if you wish.  (But unfortunately the available selection of different old-style stems is small and getting smaller daily.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a newer threadless headset, you can get an extension to go on top of the steering tube to allow the stem to be mounted higher up, and/or you can replace the stem with one that rises at a steeper angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T02:12:12.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2042" CreationDate="2012-01-29T06:04:22.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been considering this question lately. Here's my input...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that 650 wheels have advantages because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less weight, less inertia. The less weight there is the easier it is for the wheel to accelerate, turn and climb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that 650 wheels have dis-advantages because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less popular than 700 &amp;amp; 26&quot; with retailers, so potentially harder to source.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller diameter means bumpier ride on uneven surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less weight, less inertia. Less inertia means more prone to small speed fluctuations caused by things like uneven pedal stroke, wind gusts, and road bumps/fluctuations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most likely less aerodynamic. Generally speaking the longer something is in relation to its width then the more streamlined it is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3358" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T06:04:22.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7870" CreationDate="2012-01-29T22:48:56.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at this and your previous question, and to answer whether you should be throwing good money after bad, the big question is how much riding you expect you're going to do.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You may not know that yet, but what is obvious is that the more regular riding you do, the more you'll spend on maintenance.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the bike is old, you may find the bottom bracket bearings worn, the headset bearings worn, the hub bearings worn, the rims worn (if you have rim brakes), brake pads worn, cables in need of replacement, derailleur adjustment / replacement required, the wheels in need of truing, and so on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These things can be tolerable if you do only a little riding, but if you become a regular rider, you'll probably want to replace or fix a lot of that stuff.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It may benefit you to go to a shop to have it looked at and they can assess the things that need replacing, before they go ahead and do anything. Try and find a shop that focusses on the type of riding you're doing. I'm mostly a commuter so I go to an urban commuting type shop. The road racing focussed shop near me will do it, but they don't have quite as much patience for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T22:48:56.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7894" CreationDate="2012-01-30T01:31:45.187" Score="3" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if there is much point in having three chain rings on my MTB, I very rarely change gear on the front and I feel like having a single cog would make the bike lighter and also tidier as there would be less shifters and cabling getting in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any danger in fitting a single chainring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3361" LastEditorUserId="3361" LastEditDate="2017-07-26T10:15:26.660" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T10:15:26.660" Title="Single Chainring Conversion" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7893" CreationDate="2012-01-30T03:41:40.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running 1x9 is a great idea. I have done it with relatively good success. There were always times on big rides i wish i had a granny.I also intially had issues on chain drop. Because the 9 speed rear, bumpy and rocky terrain can knock the chain off when the derailleur would slap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent chain drop on the front, you can run a bash guard, and an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gvtc.com/~ngear/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;N-gear jump stop&lt;/a&gt; on the inside.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T03:41:40.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7896" CreationDate="2012-01-30T06:32:08.050" Score="9" ViewCount="17460" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know how to match a color on the frame ?&#xA;I want to buy a paint from a tool shop but I'm not sure if it's match with the frame color.&#xA;I'm going to use the paint  for a touch up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T13:14:37.063" LastActivityDate="2021-05-22T03:06:51.117" Title="How to match a paint color?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7895" CreationDate="2012-01-30T07:34:55.743" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The same way you would for any paint: find a swatch that matches it, or chip a bit off the bike, and then take it to a paint store and ask them to match it for you.  If it's a modern bike of a decent manufacturer you could always drop them an email, and they might be able to give you the make and model of the actual paint they use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember you will have to lacquer it afterwards, and that has an impact on it's final look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T07:34:55.743" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7893" CreationDate="2012-01-30T07:40:57.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the MTB world, it's only XC (and closely related) disciplines that run a triple ring.  Just take off the rings you don't want anymore and buy a chain device.  If you only really do XC, then there is no need a buy a burly DH chain device with a bash guard, you just need one that has two rollers to squeeze the chain - as it joins and leaves the front ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T07:40:57.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3362" CreationDate="2012-01-30T08:27:18.727" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can clean the chain without release it, use &lt;strong&gt;chain cleaner&lt;/strong&gt; for it, you can rotate your crank and clean the chain. You will damage the pin if you release it everytime you clean the chain...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ccjVg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T08:27:18.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7906" CreationDate="2012-01-30T14:17:45.160" Score="7" ViewCount="10019" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen people make a distinction between a derailleur being for friction or indexed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this distinction somehow functional? I can't see how it could be, because every derailleur I've ever seen just takes a movement in the cable and translates it into a movement in the cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T17:42:33.113" Title="Why is there a distinction between friction and indexed derailleurs?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7885" CreationDate="2012-01-30T15:08:41.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How is the condition of your pedals and cleats? Maybe they are worn out and they need a replacement. I've had a friend who rode with worn out pedals and he had a lot of damage to his knee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cleats also weren't attached the right way at first. Someone who was specialized in body shapes on a bike attached them right on how I put power on my feet and pedals. Maybe you are giving too much power on your feet and your cleats aren't attached the right way either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(sorry for my poor language, I'm not native English)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3336" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T15:08:41.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7899" CreationDate="2012-01-30T15:57:17.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the possible exception of the newer electromechanical shifting systems, the derailleurs themselves are not &quot;indexed&quot;; they move within a range according to the cable movement. The &lt;b&gt;shifters&lt;/b&gt; control the cable movement, and are the thing that are indexed — not the derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely what people are referring to is whether the derailleurs are part of a part of a &lt;b&gt;group&lt;/b&gt; that uses indexed shifting. But assuming the same high-low range, take-up capacity (for a rear derailleur) and cable pull ratio, a derailleur that was originally part of a friction-shifting group should be interchangeable with an indexed shifting group and vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T15:57:17.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7904" CreationDate="2012-01-30T17:00:55.653" Score="3" ViewCount="2940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take my cassette off the bike to give it a good cleaning a few times a year and have always put a good amount of grease under the lockring. I am not talking about repacking the hubs, bearings or anything like that, just some grease to fill the gap between the lockring and the sealed bearings that are deeper down inside the freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen some references to greasing the threads on the lockring, but nothing about grease under the lockring. Without the grease does dirt/rocks/grass/mud get into that gap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T17:37:18.893" Title="Should I put grease under the lockring on my cassette?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7899" CreationDate="2012-01-30T17:04:22.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expanding on djangodude's comment, rear drive train groups (derailleur, cassette, chain, shifter) tend to be more sensitive to derailleur alignment. They also tend to be designed to work together. Various pins and ramps on the cassette exist to encourage the chain to shift up or down as necessary. For a chosen gear, the derailleur &quot;sweet spot&quot; -- the position where the chain flows smoothly &amp;amp; quietly without trying to jump up or down a gear -- is narrower in an indexed group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you can certainly use an indexed group with friction shifters, but your shifting must be much more precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T17:04:22.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7902" CreationDate="2012-01-30T17:37:18.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bearings are sealed (so dirt can't get into the bearing), and there isn't an interface (two surfaces rubbing together), than lube is probably not needed.  Adding lube may actually create a dirt-trap as more dirt &lt;em&gt;sticks&lt;/em&gt; rather than just getting in there and falling back out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threads, certainly.  Packing in behind the lock ring?  Not so much.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T17:37:18.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7916" CreationDate="2012-01-30T18:44:40.933" Score="1" ViewCount="4582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was considering getting some spoke lights to increase visibility at night, and although there are a number of options they all seems to have a relatively low battery life, or get bad reviews. Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.niteize.com/products/spokelit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.niteize.com/products/spokelit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monkeylectric.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.monkeylectric.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/SL-LD120/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/SL-LD120/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best value for money would probably be getting some reflector tape, however it doesn't offer as much visibility and also relies on the light shining directly on you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you were to recommend a spoke light, what would it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. What surprised me is that I haven't seen any battery-less solutions, which I would have thought would be the obvious choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6019/are-revolights-a-good-idea&quot;&gt;Are revolights a good idea?&lt;/a&gt; Some things to consider before getting Revolights (which I will, because they are so damn cool)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2107" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T15:22:01.683" Title="Any thoughts on spoke lights?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;visibility&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-02-01T19:19:39.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7899" CreationDate="2012-01-30T18:50:37.153" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With an indexed shifter, each gear change moves a fixed amount of cable. The rear derailer is supposed to move a certain distance (the distance between cogs) for each fixed amount of cable pulled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the fact about some sram levers not working with shimano shifters and vice-versa, and that's because each brand works with a different amount of cable pull per shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a friction shifter, you can pull any amount you want, so you'll always be able to get the right derailer position for a given gear (of course, given your shifter covers the required range), and in this case you could use any suitable derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the distinction you mention has to do with compatibility between a given derailer and a given indexed shifter. If you match them wrong, shifting would be very disfunctional (I've seen it happen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides that, it would be theoretically possible to use a non-indexed derailer with a given indexed shifter, but only if they happen to have the same cable-displacement-to-lateral-displacement ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T18:50:37.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-30T20:12:45.137" Score="1" ViewCount="2400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2000 Ultegra 9-speed right/rear brifter that does not &quot;release&quot; the cable properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial search on this problem suggested that this could often be cured by flushing with WD-40. So I've done that, and the problem persists. But after comparing the operation of the right brifter with the left I got more insight on the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that if I hold the outer lever vertical (i.e don't let it move), then the inner lever clicks and releases properly. But if I don't hold the outer lever, the inner one will eventually start pushing the outer lever around without the inner ever clicking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems to me that there is an arrangement like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outer lever -&gt; Inner actuator -&gt; Inner lever&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there is supposed to be something between the outer lever and inner actuator that is offering resistance to the movement of the inner actuator so that the inner lever will be able to, umm... actuate the actuator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there an obvious adjustment or missing part that I should be looking for here. Or just more WD-40? It seems like the problem is not enough resistance, not too much, so it doesn't seem like a lube problem anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3365" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T02:30:36.603" Title="Ultegra 9-speed brifter upshift problem - beyond WD-40?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7907" CreationDate="2012-01-30T21:03:37.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.norvil.net/pedal/service/shimanosti/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; may be useful to you if you really want to dig around inside your shifter; though it looks like it might require a few special Shimano tools. Also note that he only has full strip/rebuild info for Dura-Ace...though I would expect Ultegra to be substantially the same, differing mainly in the use of plastic instead of metal for some parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider that it is pretty easy to find Ultegra 9 stuff on eBay and elsewhere, and it may be more time-efficient to just replace rather than repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T21:03:37.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7865" CreationDate="2012-01-30T21:33:23.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yet another possible cause is frame flex. In some frames the shifter cable is routed under the bottom bracket with part of the shifting cable exposed. In this kind of kike, the cable has not full length casing, instead the casing goes from the shifter to some cable stop in the frame, then the inner cable goes to another cable stop and enters another casing length finally going to the derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some frames can flex under stress and pedaling hard from a full stop can be enough to momentarily deform the frame so the distance between certain cable stops changes, thus changing the cable position inside the casing which in turn changes derailleur position by just millimeters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This position change is too small to complete a full gear shift, but is enough to make the chain &quot;want to shift&quot;, hence the rider can feel skipping or &quot;ghost shifting&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution for this is either create or use a different cable routing (Some frames may have alternate cable routing) or simply use a single casing from the shifter to the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_g.html#ghostshifting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_g.html#ghostshifting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/autoshift.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/autoshift.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-materials.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-materials.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T21:33:23.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7905" CreationDate="2012-01-30T22:37:50.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is perhaps a bit tangential, but your question seems to assume that spoke lights will increase visibility at night...which may be true to an extent, but only to people viewing from perpendicular to your direction of travel. Consider that you might get a better return, in terms of visibility-where-it-matters by improving your front and rear visibility (with lighting, reflectors, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slightly different option for side/wheel visibility is to use reflective tires. They're like normal tires but have a strip of reflective material on the sidewalls. They're available in a variety of types and treads for road and mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally: I don't like anything on my wheels, &lt;i&gt;particularly&lt;/i&gt; things that clamp onto the spokes. Should the clamping mechanism work loose it could jam up at an inopportune time and cause an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T22:37:50.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7885" CreationDate="2012-01-30T23:36:01.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two major possibilities here. Could be a combination of both. I'm tempted to say it's the first one I'm going to talk about:&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; Given where you said your feet are hurting (outside, front) I'd say you have your cleats toed in too much. This is caused by your foot constantly trying to re-align towards what's neutral for you. &lt;br&gt;Here's what to do:&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;What you need to do is take your right shoe, loosen the cleat bolts, and with the sole facing you turn the cleat ever so slightly- just a couple degrees before re-tightening. Take your left shoe and do the opposite; turn the cleat counter-clockwise just a couple of degrees. See if this alleviates the pain at all. Repeat if necessary. You'll know you've gone too far if you start to get pain on the inside front or outside rear of your foot.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The other possibility is that the shoe doesn't fit you quite right.&lt;br&gt; It may be that the front of your foot is a little wide and you need a wider toe box. Specialized shoes do have pretty wide toe boxes up to their Pro line. The S-Works models get noticeably narrower in the front of the shoe. Despite the fact that you were fitted for a standard width, a wider shoe may be more comfortable. As long as your foot isn't sliding around side to side the shoe isn't too wide. It's important to note that your foot flattens/widens when you press down hard on the pedal so if your shoe is already pretty snug in the front you may need more room. The material that specialized makes their shoes out of (at least the uppers on their S-Works shoes) does not stretch very much, so if it's at all tight now it will probably remain that way.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't dismiss the possibility that the shoe may just not fit your foot well from the get-go, regardless of width or size. Cycling shoes are deeply a matter of personal preference, arguably falling right behind saddles. What works great for one person may be a device of torture for another. Keep this in mind and if the above suggestions don't help you, you might want to consider buying some cheaper model used shoes from different brands on ebay before forking over big bucks for a nice pair of shoes that you can't really try before you buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T23:36:01.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7938" CreationDate="2012-01-31T03:44:42.177" Score="1" ViewCount="4050" Body="&lt;p&gt;With my first Garmin Edge 305, I got the cadence and heart rate accessories. Cadence is still humming along, but the heart rate monitor has been not accurately reporting heart rate over the past couple months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two battery changes and various attempts to wet the contacts and my skin beneath have not resurrected the reliability of the heart rate monitor strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you all have any further suggestions to try to get the Garmin Heart Rate Monitor working properly again, or is it time to just bite the bullet and buy a replacement heart rate monitor strap. If so, another Garmin-branded one or a different ANT+ heart rate monitor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2174" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T20:14:32.363" Title="Garmin Heart Rate Monitor Not Reporting Accurate HR Anymore" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-31T04:50:30.960" Score="2" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was replacing cables on grip shifters recently and when I put them back together they acted as if they were on the wrong side. By that I mean the front shifter (3 chain rings) were shifting 7 times and the rear shifter (7 speed) was clicking 3 times. I was baffled at this and did not know what was wrong. Is there a way to change them back? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T18:24:40.433" Title="How do you switch grip shifters from shifting as if they were on the opposite derailleur?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7905" CreationDate="2012-01-31T05:17:37.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my trials with spoke lights I have not found ones that I like, but I have learned a few things about them that might be useful to others with more money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Illumination - It is important to recognize how much light the lights can put out, and not just when the batteries are fully charged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Batteries - There are a multitude of spoke lights with all sorts of battery requirements. A lot of them use the disk shaped batteries. These range in hassle to install and maintain since some of them only use a single battery while others use varying amounts in different quantities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ease of activation and deactivation - Some are easier to turn on and off then others. I prefer buttons rather then those you have to press on both sides. When you are riding around in the winter, one of the times you need to be seen the most, and you have frozen fingers turning lights on and off can be quite painful. Having lights that won't hurt your fingers might be a godsend.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cost/benefit ratio - The aforementioned Monkey Lights may provide a lot of illumination, not to mention a few points in style, but they are not cheap. God forbid your bike gets stolen. Besides I can think of a few other areas on my bike I would want to drop that money on. But hey, at least you will get noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I don't like the design of the SpokeLit. It fails on 3 of 4 of my qualifications. They are a pain to turn on and off. They do not stay bright for long and the batteries are expensive. Granted I ride a lot so your battery life may differ. What I have thought about doing is wrapping my spokes in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.glowire.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Glowire&lt;/a&gt; or something like it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="1473" LastEditDate="2012-01-31T05:31:27.353" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T05:31:27.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7915" CreationDate="2012-01-31T05:23:28.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have accidently mixed up the cables and routed the front dérailleur cable to the rear shifter and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can change them so that the front shifter goes to the front dérailleur pretty easily. Just swap them at the shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T05:23:28.877" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7907" CreationDate="2012-01-31T06:29:36.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tri-flow generally works to free up stuck shifters. I've heard other mechanics suggest Clean Streak or plain diesel fuel. Another technique I've used successfully is a bath in Simple Green in an ultrasonic cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T06:29:36.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7905" CreationDate="2012-01-31T06:30:58.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reelight makes magnetically powered lights that attach at the wheel axle. They are actuated by magnets attached to the spokes. The higher end models have built in capacitors so they continue to flash for a short period after the bicycle is stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T06:30:58.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7921" CreationDate="2012-01-31T06:43:29.367" Score="3" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about hub,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should I grease my hub ? every 20000 km ?&#xA;How do I know it needs new grease ?&#xA;Because I can not see if the grease is dry or not...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T07:25:53.033" Title="How to grease a hub?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7920" CreationDate="2012-01-31T07:25:53.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a standard loose-bearing hub, to grease it you disassemble it, wash the components in solvent, and then reassemble with new grease.  You may want to take this opportunity to replace the individual balls in the assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how often you may need to do this, it's a little bit of a wild guess.  I aim for (very roughly) every 10K miles, but a lot depends on conditions (and mine are commuting/touring).  If the bike is rarely exposed to rain and dust then longer is OK.  If it's regularly exposed to water/dirt then more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some wheel bearings are advertised as &quot;sealed&quot;, as they have a rubber seal that helps keep dirt out.  These can either be of the loose-bearing variety (which is serviced as above) or a cartridge (which cannot be serviced other that to replace it).  Sealed loose-ball bearings can probably go about twice as long before servicing.  Cartridge bearings you generally ride until they obviously need replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T07:25:53.033" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="692" CreationDate="2012-01-31T07:50:05.437" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually I use the tool like this, put your degreaser inside it and of course the chain inside, rotate your crank and it will clean all part of your chain, inside out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ErKs0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jzTVn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for cog cleaning,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vimW1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T07:50:05.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="692" CreationDate="2012-01-31T14:52:56.350" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a lemon, natural and works very fine; easy to squezze and use it.&#xA;After I clean the chain I use no oil for the chain, I use a silicone spray or WD40 spray. The benefit is, that this stuff no have an contact with the dirt, only lubricate the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3371" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T14:52:56.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2742" CreationDate="2012-01-31T16:03:36.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to build upon the points of view already presented, I think that shifting at the same time would not be a big problem provided that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You DON'T PEDAL HARD while shifting;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have enough forward momentum to complete the shifting without having to pedal hard in the meantime. Actually, you just slowly move the cranks to complete the shifting, while the bike sort of &quot;coasts&quot;, with no tension on the chain or engagement of the freewheel clutch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with Jay Bazuzi, I also do this &quot;one front, two back&quot;, have done it for many years, know a lot of guys who do it, and we have no problem doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT I have also seen stories, and being myself a victim, of the problems describes by Zenbike, crushing derailers, chains and hangers by literally pedalling them off after they had jammed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the explanation differs, since I suppose the main problem is shifting under pedal load, and not shifting with both derailers at the same time. Actually, even shifting under load with only one derailer could bring those problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is only one more theory, and each one should consider the essence of the problem, the facts and theories presented, and check them against its own observations, never forgetting that most probably there are many other factors involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T16:03:36.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7879" CreationDate="2012-01-31T17:20:49.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience, the best maintenance is to clean and inspect the bike after each use, specially mountain bikers, depending on the type of cycling you do, the distances, the trail condition and the weather. Commuters and road bikers can loosen their cleaning schedule if they ride clean roads/streets in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cleaning the bike, inspect closely brake pads, cables, handles levers and shifters, rims, tires and pivots, chain, gears and derailleurs, if any. Do not forget suspension parts if your bike has them. If you have racks, fenders, lights or some other, give it a check too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for loosen bolts and nuts, abnormal wear or normal wear beyond normal limits (specially brake pads). Tighten anything that needs to, and if necessary, perform a deeper cleaning in particular items (like derailleurs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally but most important of all, apply lubricant in all the relevant points, preferably after the bike has dried. The minimum you should do is lube the chain and derailleur pivots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Performing this check every time allows you to detect when something goes wrong and needs special attention, replacing or service at a bike shop before a catastrophic fault occurs. Once you have established the habit, you'll learn how to perform the check faster. This also allows you to  plan ahead for buying replacements or upgrades so you don't have to do emergency buys or risking your store is &quot;out of stock&quot; at a critical moment (keeping you from a race or special event for example). This can lower your maintenance bill since you can buy items when there are special offers, instead of buying what you find at the price you find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to clean before the inspection, so mud an debris don't fool your sight. Dirt can hide cracks or disguise abnormal wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Performing this after the ride and not before it, gives you time to react, you can plan when to perform reparations or take the bike for service, if you leave it for just before the ride, chances are you might have to cancel or may get a major delay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If (like me) you use your bike in a lot of muddy trails, you MUST clean the bike on a per ride basis. Make sure you do not leave stuck mud to dry in your bike. The humidity will cause corrosion, and some kinds of mud can degrade paint or tire rubber if left to dry in the bike. If you ride cleaner trails, you can skip cleaning or keep it just for critical items (crankset, chain, sprockets and derailleurs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this can extend the time between services at the shop and lengthen lifespan of bike components. Nonetheless keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;New bikes may include in its price some first checks at the bikeshop, or they may be mandatory to keep the warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Complex items like Suspension forks or shocks need to be serviced by specially trained mechanics on a distance ridden basis or on a fixed time basis, regardless of external good condition appearance. (Some forks for example use special oils that mus be changed because they degrade over time, even if not ridden).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of a bike that has been properly stored for a while, at least the check must be performed, preferably a week or so before the first planned ride, for the reasons mentioned before. The cleaning and checking should both be performed before storing the bike for long seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T17:20:49.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7927" CreationDate="2012-01-31T18:04:00.080" Score="10" ViewCount="3048" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple question, however, I am used to cleaning my bike at my parents house, I use some eco bike spray stuff leave it for a little then rub and hose down (I normally get it quite dirty riding down dirt tracks in West Sussex, UK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now at University and our flat has no access to a garden or hose pipe, the best place / possible way I can think to clean it is out on the pavement next to a busy road with a tub of water and a sponge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone recommend taking their bike to a garage and jet washing it down? Anyone found a really easy way to clean their bike with limited space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/#q=tf2+spray&amp;amp;tbm=shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TF2&lt;/a&gt;, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3361" LastEditorUserId="3361" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T10:04:36.280" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T19:17:33.617" Title="Whats the easiest way to clean my bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7926" CreationDate="2012-01-31T19:12:44.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the only part which is problematic to clean is the chain (and possibly drivetrain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation, I would do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the chain apart from the bike, and clean it shaking inside a plastic container with a small amount of your preferred degreaser or solvent, replacing the solvent a few times untill it comes out clean. This can be made very cleanly (specially if you wrap the plastic container inside one or two old socks before shaking);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the bike to somewhere else outside, where you can wash everything else with soap, water and a brush. A bit of degreaser first, on the drivetrain, might be needed. A hose would be very helpful. Dish detergent might be fine. Let the drivetrain as the last part to clean, so not to brush the whole bike with an already dirty/greased brush.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to send it to the bike shop and spend a little, but think about the time saved also. Depending on each person, spending money might be better than spending time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T19:12:44.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7929" CreationDate="2012-01-31T19:51:33.477" Score="15" ViewCount="95706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike that I use to commute ~6 miles to work every day.  Some of the portions of the ride are at a steep incline, and I've noticed that when I get up to stand on some of these hills, my gear slips.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if &quot;gear slips&quot; is the right term, but basically after I stand up my gear switches without me triggering it.  It's very annoying and sometimes painful when I completely lose control of pedaling for half a second, not to mention the different gear setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3183" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-02T04:05:09.777" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T19:40:12.157" Title="Why does my gear slip when going uphill / standing?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7928" CreationDate="2012-01-31T20:48:00.000" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order of least expensive to most expensive, you either have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a misadjusted derailleur,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a very worn out cassette, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a crack in your frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not noticing any problems shifting under normal circumstances, I'd odds are good that your cassette is worn out and your chain no longer meshes with the cogs correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T20:48:00.000" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7928" CreationDate="2012-01-31T20:59:10.933" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go with the following hypotheses, beyond that already proposed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your derailer is a bit misadjusted, so the gear is already almost shifting down. When you pedal hard, your frame flexes, thus releasing some cable, and the gear shifts &quot;automatically&quot;. This is specially true if you have a brazeon on front part of downtube, then the cable runs outside of the housings, probably passing through an under-bottom-bracket guide, and then enters housing again in a braze-on close to the rear shifter (I'm doing some paranormal guess, here, but you got the idea);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have friction shifter, and the shifter is slowly slipping down, so that when you pedal hard it actually shifts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two hypotheses are wild guesses, but maybe one of them is true (tell me if so ;o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T20:59:10.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2767" CreationDate="2012-01-31T21:45:44.367" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have wrestled with this issue for a long time. After commuting on a Trek FX Hybrid and moving to a Masi Speciale CX Cyclocross bike I am convinced now that Cyclocross bikes make the best commuters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They are built for speed&lt;/strong&gt; - Let's face it bikes are slower than cars. So when you are out there you want to save as much time as you can. Speed helps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They have the right tires&lt;/strong&gt; - After commuting through the winter on my Trek I am glad now to be on my Masi. Cyclocross tires are built for rough terrain without sacrificing that much when it comes to speed. I can still keep up with my rodie friends and i can ride across gravel without too much effort. Riding in the rain suddenly becomes a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's all about posture&lt;/strong&gt; - Hybrids generally are more upright and therefore lack the longevity of the bent position. I could only go about 20 mi on my hybrid before my hands and site bones began to ache, but on my cyclocross bike I can go 60 mi without adverse effects because of the multiple hand positions and the fact that my weight is shifted off my sit bones and on my feet where it needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Size matters&lt;/strong&gt; - My cyclocross bike is also a lot smaller then my hybrid. The crank arms are also closer to the frame giving me a smaller profile to fit through tighter spaces and take up less road space. This has the added bonus of the cars not being as close to me if I was on my Trek.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember not all bikes are built the same. The Surly Cross Check and the Masi Speciale CX have the added advantage of the rack and fender mounts. That is why I would call them the ultimate commuter bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="1473" LastEditDate="2013-09-01T18:21:49.790" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T18:21:49.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7915" CreationDate="2012-01-31T22:19:03.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the shifters were not in the correct position when you routed your cables?The front shifter should have been pointing to NUMBER 1,the rear indicating number 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T22:19:03.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7926" CreationDate="2012-01-31T22:28:57.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My (road) bike cleaning routine is pretty simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove as much black gunk as possible from the chain, chainrings, front derailleur and rear derailleur jockey wheels using kitchen towel (as long as you don't rub too hard, the paper doesn't shred).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove rear wheel and use a rag to clean between the sprockets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean bike using warm water with a dash of washing up liquid, a big sponge and a cylindrical brush for brake calipers, under the saddle and other tricky places.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A work stand makes this process much easier, plus you can remove both wheels to clean them more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering it is acceptable for people wash their cars in the street, I can't see how anyone could complain about you cleaning your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do use a pressure washer, don't spray around the rear hub or the bottom bracket area, as this can blast the grease out from between the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1152" LastEditorUserId="1152" LastEditDate="2012-02-05T17:58:47.713" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T17:58:47.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7895" CreationDate="2012-01-31T22:36:44.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a local hobby shop.They usually sell remote control cars,planes etc. Look for model paints that are enamal.Testors is a popular brand in the U.S.They have sets of different colors along with single jars.You can custom mix the colors to get a match,say three drops of blue to one drop of black.I paint my test samples on an old piece of ceramic tile,dry them with a hairdryer to speed things up and check the match in direct sunlight.If the color is off scrape the sample off with a razorblade and adjust your mix and try again.Once you get a match write down the formula for the next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T22:36:44.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7813" CreationDate="2012-01-31T22:49:36.003" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way many of these work is by controlling the movement of the oil by adjusting the orafice size that the oil flows through.Small holes restrict the oil making the shock feel firmer.Larger holes allows more oil to flow through faster making the shock feel softer.That is how turning the knob such a small amount can make such a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T22:49:36.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7939" CreationDate="2012-02-01T02:19:57.870" Score="8" ViewCount="60801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the bottom bracket bearing on my fixie. I plan to get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/sg/index/products/city___comfort_bike/capreo/product.-code-BB-UN26.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano UN26&lt;/a&gt;, but I note that there are a number of different sizes. The sizes seem to be expressed as 68-110, where 68 is the shell width and the second number varies according to the table below, from Shimano's tech specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ABvto.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the second number relates to the width somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I measure my existing bearing? Is it length from end to end of the axle? Given that the only tool I have for this is a ruler (no calipers) what's the best way of measuring my existing bottom bracket to ensure I get the right size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I removed the bottom bracket and it had &quot;103&quot; stamped on the axle. I also measured and it was exactly 103mm from end to end. So it looks like the measure is the length. I went to my LBS and they assured me a 107mm (coincidently the shortest one they carried) would be fine. I installed it and my chainline is marginally out (I guess by 2mm). So I'm going to try to find a 103mm from somewhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T08:04:21.767" LastActivityDate="2018-10-27T15:24:03.440" Title="How do I measure a bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7936" CreationDate="2012-02-01T05:56:55.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern square taper BB's are symmetrical. The 2nd number refers to the overall spindle length in mm. Measure the BB on your bike (with the cranks removed) and replace it with one of the same spindle length. Calipers are the best way, go buy a cheap pair at a discount tool shop near you. The spindle length is measurement A in this photo: &lt;a href=&quot;http://branfordbike.com/articles/bottom-brackets-pg59.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://branfordbike.com/articles/bottom-brackets-pg59.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-02-01T12:36:26.353" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T12:36:26.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7913" CreationDate="2012-02-01T12:31:03.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the battery changes, if you haven't washed the strap, try doing that, first with soap and water, then wipe with isopropyl alcohol. If you get no different response, replace the strap. BTW, I recently had to replace my Edge 305 because the PC drivers were blue screening my Win 7 PC. If you use the Garmin software at all, you might consider an overall upgrade. In addition, they've changed the design f the Garmin HR strap, so if you do decide to replace it, it will be with the newer soft strap, not the same as your original one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T12:31:03.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7936" CreationDate="2012-02-01T12:36:01.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The numbers 113, 115, etc. mean the total axle length in milimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a singlespeed (fixie, internal-geared-hub), the important measure is how much the right side of the axle &quot;shows out&quot; (not always perfectly symmetric), and how much the crank can &quot;sink&quot; into the tapered square, which may vary from model to model even with the same nominal spindle length, and with how much torque you apply to the bolt when installing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two single-speeds (fixie and IGH), which required some &quot;fine tuning&quot; to get a straight chainline:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One had a 73mm bottombracket tube on the frame, so I had to use a slightly shorter spindle, because it is installed off-center (2.5mm to the right because of extra &quot;frame width&quot; on the right side, the nut on the other side didn't have a lip and could be inserted fully inside the bb thread);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other was regular 68mm, but two models with same spindle length had different offsets on the crank (because of taper, lip width of the shell, and some other obscure factors) and I had to install a cheaper model (generic instead of Shimano), it was the only one that fitted, and I'd rather have an aligned chain than a slightly better bottombracket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T12:36:01.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7940" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-02T04:06:07.997" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-02T04:06:07.997" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T04:06:07.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7941" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-02T04:06:07.997" Score="0" Body="Questions about chains slipping off the gears, or the chain derailing, or the bike shifting at odd times, perhaps while standing to pedal uphill. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-02T13:55:54.597" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T13:55:54.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7893" CreationDate="2012-02-02T06:14:38.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you convert your current triple chainset to single you might have to change the chainring bolts also (I've had to on 2 bikes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When removing inner and outer and fitting a bash-guard ring, you might need longer/deeper bolts because bash-guards are often thicker at the drilled fixing lugs than a chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When removing inner and middle, and leaving outer ring, you'll probably need thinner bolts to take up the slack of the missing middle ring width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not sure which bolts I mean have a look here (commercial link but good example images): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mobile/MobileCategories.aspx?CategoryID=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mobile/MobileCategories.aspx?CategoryID=4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2p - in my opinion you will get regular chain drop on all but the smoothest trails if you don't get a bash/guide combo as already suggested, or double roller also suggested. Worth every penny :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T06:14:38.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7944" CreationDate="2012-02-02T06:50:39.070" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the size of ball bearing on WH-R550 hub, is it 1/4&quot; for the front one and rear one ?&#xA;Can I replace them with 1/4&quot; ceramic bearing ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T07:39:19.127" Title="What 's the size of bearing?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2012-02-02T07:39:19.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bocabearings.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boca&lt;/a&gt;, they are 3/16&quot; for the front and 1/4&quot; for the rear.  I see no reason why you can't run ceramic bearings in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T07:39:19.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7986" CreationDate="2012-02-02T13:39:58.257" Score="1" ViewCount="3596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not have a chain whip or sprocket ring tool. Is it possible to change the rear sprocket without these tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T01:45:30.333" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T01:46:48.427" Title="Can a fixed gear sprocket be changed without tools?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7945" CreationDate="2012-02-02T13:58:54.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of people doing it with a hammer and a screwdriver. It's not the best idea though. It won't be easy, and you'll foul the lockring and your cog's teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just plonk down the $20 on getting the proper tools for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T13:58:54.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7945" CreationDate="2012-02-02T14:39:22.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the lockring a hammer and screwdriver works sometimes, but you end up damaging everything involved except the hammer, sometimes to the point that you can't get the lockring tool to work after the fact. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Get the lockring tool. There are semi universal ones that work ok. The type that are designed to fit specific lockrings (ie 3 slot, 4 slot) work much better. Either way they're fairly cheap. &lt;br&gt;Once the lockring is off you might be able to use your bikes chain and crank in place of a chainwhip, but this is yet another place where you're better off just buying the appropriate tool. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Once you have them you'll be a happier fixie rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T14:39:22.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7913" CreationDate="2012-02-02T15:34:04.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might not be the case here, as it states that problems have been for months, but last summer I had a similar problem, except that the belt was working perfectly. The problem was caused by overtraining and my body was not able to give more than 165 bpm at maximum effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few rest days solved the problem. After that I paid more attention to rest and food intake directly after the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T15:34:04.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7945" CreationDate="2012-02-02T17:56:38.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it have a lockring? If not, just get a friend to hold the bike steady and try to pedal backwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a lockring on my commute bike and, after a series of braking manoeuvres in short succession, I've had my cog come loose while in action. That's quite scary!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have a lockring then, well, you can do it with a hammer and screwdriver - it's really just a question of whether you want to reuse it again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just wander into your LBS and ask to borrow their tools. Most good mechanics will gracefully decline, but will explain to you why buying one yourself is the best solution ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T17:56:38.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-02T03:37:24.340" Score="5" ViewCount="2193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a standard 2 bar roof rack (such as Yakima or Thule) with interchangeable and move-able bike / ski racks. I often carry 2 bicycles. Which will give me the best (least worse) gas mileage on my car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both bikes as close together as possible, or on opposite edges of the roof?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If together, centered, or on one side or the other?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front wheel on (full upright) or front wheel off (fork mount)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="LBell" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T14:40:32.300" Title="What is a good roof-rack configuration for optimal gas mileage?" Tags="&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7950" CreationDate="2012-02-02T16:54:32.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basic aerodynamics, as I remember it from many years ago, would say the only one of those options that would be different from the others would be the front wheel off, but as to whether that would be worse or better I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the bike angled down, the seat may have greater drag, and the top tube is no longer horizontal so my guess would be that having the frame horizontal is best (it has been designed to have lowest drag in this position with a rider so this seems reasonable)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to where on the roof the bikes should be, the most significant drag is from the airflow heading from front to back of the car. There is a minor effect over the edges of the car, but it isn't going to make a noticeable difference, so my guidance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about the drag, and secure the bikes where you can make sure they aren't loose and can get them up and down without straining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" OwnerDisplayName="Rory Alsop" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T16:54:32.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7950" CreationDate="2012-02-02T21:10:21.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience frequently carrying bikes, skis, roof boxes, and even 55 gallon drums on my roof rack, I've found that they pretty much all give a hit to the gas mileage, but the configuration doesn't really matter as long as you don't do anything ridiculous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a fairing helps cut down on noise tremendously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T21:10:21.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7959" CreationDate="2012-02-02T22:30:07.760" Score="4" ViewCount="3302" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having had a good look at a Scott Sub 10 1012 model today I'm very very VERY keen to convert my On-One Pompetamine Versa 8 to belt-drive. It has a Shimano Alfin 8 hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... what advice can you give me? So far I know/think that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need to get the read-triangle on the drive side cut and have a gate brazed in (I'll do this myself probably).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll need to get hold of an Alfin fit sprocket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have an eccentric BB mount/shell so will have to tension with track-ends and tugs (or will I??)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That it's blinking expensive :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T19:19:04.427" Title="Checklist for Gates Beltdrive conversion..." Tags="&lt;belt-drive&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7950" CreationDate="2012-02-02T22:44:51.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your car's specific geometry will be the determinate factor in the optimal position. Do a couple trials with round trips 10+ miles and in a couple configurations. Short drives won't break the bank and they will help you figure out how to set up your rig for long travels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T22:44:51.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2012-02-02T22:55:55.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest hurdle is definitely engineering the split dropout or the separable chainstay. S and S Machine doesn't sell their S&amp;amp;S couplers to amateurs, so the most elegant method of splitting the chainstay proper isn't really available to you.  Other methods - using flat stock or other threadings - are likely to provide endless headaches there. Gates publishes a &lt;A href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=8&amp;amp;ved=0CF8QFjAH&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.g-boxx.com%2Fpdf%2FGates-public-domain-dropouts%2FGates-public-domain-dropouts.xls&amp;amp;ei=nRArT6W9FJLJiQKqqMHUCg&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNEZXq61bd-1FBgNT2x9RVlrn1FRDA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spreadsheet containing engineering documents&lt;/a&gt; for a few different dropout designs, you could possibly make them or get them manufactured to your specification by a local machinist and braze them ion, but once again you're looking at some significant expense and complexity.  There are a few other dropout designs as well, but they appear to be proprietary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately you're looking at a sub-$300 frameset; you might be best off finding a Gates-compatible mass-produced frameset and moving all your parts over to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T22:55:55.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7950" CreationDate="2012-02-03T03:38:31.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a prius. It averages 46mpg on our normal driving trends, but 48mpg on long stretches of 65mph trips with the roof rack, but empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example test: 1 road bike, with a round tubed roof rack, and wind faring. I also had a bug / wind screen bike cover. On a trip of 500 miles we dropped to an average of 35pmg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giant drop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 bike, 2 bikes, forward, backward, road or mtn, seems to be about the same 10mpg drop every time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="3124" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T14:40:32.300" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T14:40:32.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7950" CreationDate="2012-02-03T12:19:01.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do some experimenting with position, but the biggest difference will be by dropping your speed. Just plan on going a bit slower if fuel efficiency is more important than time of arrival. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever the detrimental effects of one placement over another, they'll pale compared to the the improvement gained by cutting 5-10mph off your average speed for the journey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T12:19:01.257" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-03T12:19:01.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7950" CreationDate="2012-02-03T13:40:06.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not use any type of tarp or cover this would increase the surface area and increase drag and the flapping tarp will damage the paint.I would remove the wheels stow them in the vehicle,again to reduce the frontal area.My experience has been that very aerodynamic vehicles are much more sensitve to drag ,they get high mpg by being moving air over the body very effiencently any disruption makes the smaller engines work that much harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T13:40:06.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2012-02-03T16:00:05.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look out for the chain line / belt line. With a chain, you don't have to care about this much as a chain will run at quite an angle without problems (derailleurs rely on this, obviously.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt will be much less tolerant of a chain line that is not straight. With the pre-centertrack belts the alignment between front and rear sprockets needs to be within +/- 1/8&quot; otherwise the belt is just going to run off of the sprockets. Centertrack prevents the belt running off, but I doubt it will run great if the sprockets are misaligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth googling for this - you'll find many conversion projects that went off the rails because of this. One challenge you may well run into is that even if you are able to get a combo of BB and crank that will allow the belt to line up, the chainstay will be in the way. I have a Civia Bryant and the drive-side chainstay is shaped so that the front sprocket will clear it - i.e it has a &quot;dent&quot; in the chainstay. This suggests that it's hard to have a non-dented chainstay design that will work, and, well... most chainstays don't have dents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On balance, I think you'd have to be &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; attached to that frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to verify is the range of spacing you will have available between the front and rear sprockets, and whether this will be compatible with the combinations of belt length and sprocket sizes available. You need enough range to both be able to get the belt on, and to tension it properly. The information about the ranges needed for various belt/sprocket combinations is available on Gates website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3365" LastEditorUserId="3365" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T19:19:04.427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T19:19:04.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7961" CreationDate="2012-02-03T16:15:04.770" Score="7" ViewCount="12875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see that there are three kinds of chain wear gauge:&#xA;The basic kind. I'm used to using this kind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/swRff.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;simple chain wear gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hook style. Supposedly provides an indication of how worn the chain is. I've used these and the idea makes sense:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D2aAQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hook style chain wear gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Digital. This seems like overkill and designed to separate fools from their money:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gd3vl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;digital chain wear gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the relative benefits of each? Is the simple kind generally good enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T09:15:51.607" Title="What's the most useful style of chain gauge?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2012-02-03T16:36:44.650" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Useful&quot; is hard to define for everyone. For me, &quot;useful&quot; tends to mean &quot;has a lot of uses&quot;. The very specific chain wear-checking tools you list above are &quot;handy&quot; in that they do one thing and they do it reasonably well. Useful? Well...if you need to do it a lot and/or it is difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is a tried-and-true method using a simple tool that many people already own, and which has a lot of other uses: a tape measure or ruler with inch markings. You simply align an inch mark on one side of a rivet, then look at the corresponding rivet 12 full links away. On an unworn chain, the rivet will line up exactly at 12 inches. A worn chain will be more than 12 inches. On most bicycles, you won't even need to remove the chain to do this. And it works with virtually all modern bicycle chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain wear in general is a bit of a &quot;religious&quot; issue, but a rule of thumb if you must have one is: within 1/16 of an inch, no problem. Between 1/16 - 1/8 of an inch, probably time to replace the chain. Past 1/8 of an inch, you've probably noticed other issues in the drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This (along with many, many other chain-related issues) is summed up nicely at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt; (see 'Measuring Chain Wear', towards the bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T16:36:44.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2012-02-03T16:56:12.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first one -- the simple Park Tool gauge, is perfectly adequate for most uses.  It provides two levels of indication, and is reasonably inexpensive and foolproof.  The second one is maybe a little better, in that it gives you a sense of how close to the &quot;break points&quot; you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With either of the first two, and some other designs, one needs to be careful to not &quot;force&quot; the gauge -- too much force not only yields bad readings but also will damage the gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With most gauges the chain needs to be measured while under tension.  For a standard derailleur setup simply measuring the top chain segment while on the bike generally suffices, but for a fixie you will need to apply modest pressure to the pedal to make the chain taut (unless the tugs are tightened all the way to begin with), and if the chain is not mounted you will need to manually stretch it or apply a weight.  The force does not need to be a lot -- just enough to press lubricant out from between pieces, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The referenced article enormously overstates the potential error from roller wear.  If you're measuring over 14 links like the Park tool, you accumulate 14 links' worth of &quot;stretch&quot; but only one link's worth of roller wear, so roller wear is a negligible contributor to the measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T16:56:12.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2012-02-03T18:04:10.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first one you posted is good because it's cheap. However, it lacks the ability to measure a chain until it's worn out, or really worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second one is still cheap and gives you the ability to measure your chain at an earlier stage of wear. Downside is you lose some compactness. I have not used that type before so i cant speak to its accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third is really for shop use and may be overkill even in that situation. Digital calipers are really nice to have, but you don't really need that same degree of accuracy in a chain checker, so in my opinion this is a little wasteful of your disposable income.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple other options that you didn't post are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/eoorider/5346630950/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool CC-1&lt;/a&gt; (which is no longer made) and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-checker-cc-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool CC-2&lt;/a&gt;. As you might expect, the CC-2 replaced the CC-1. The CC-2 is a little more expensive than the first two checkers you posted, but definitely far less than the third. It has a compact design so it's easy to throw in an already cramped toolbox (like mine), it's very easy to use, it gives an accurate reading, and it should last a lifetime for personal use. It's the one you're most likely to see shop mechanics using, yet it's still very affordable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T18:04:10.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2012-02-03T20:23:48.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I reference to djangodudes answer the 12 inch rule works fine, but I would avoid a tape measure,use an inexpensive steel ruler.If you must use a tape, measure from the 12 inch mark to the 24 inch mark.Doing this eliminates using the hook at the end of the tape which can have movement that will skew your measurement &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T20:23:48.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7967" CreationDate="2012-02-04T17:05:19.247" Score="4" ViewCount="14556" Body="&lt;p&gt;My freewheel that I have installed myself only 1.5 years ago has totally worn out by the moment and so I just had it replaced along with a chain at the workshop. I'm still concerned though about the previous one's extremely short lifespan and thus suspicious about my current setup as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's 7 gears freewheel on a folding bike (no front derailleur), and the problem is that it's feels very smooth on 4th gear. When you switch on higher gear up to the 7th, you start to feel some strange vibration as you pedal, which, I suppose, may indicate that the chain is not properly aligned and will wear the cogs out quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I just being paranoid? Apart from that, everything seems fine now - gear switching is smooth and under load they don't switch lower with a distinctive noise, as before with my old freewheel. Should I try to play with cable's tension to get rid of that vibration on the higher gears as I use them more often than lower ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3125" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T08:17:21.097" Title="Chain &quot;vibrates&quot; on higher gears" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2012-02-04T17:07:26.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Park Tool CC-3, but as jm2 mentions it's only a &quot;go/no-go&quot; indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to remove my chain periodically for cleaning (due to lots of mountain biking in wet/sloppy conditions). To get a more nuanced view of chain wear, I took an old chain (one that failed the CC-3 test) and nailed it to a wall in my garage. Now when I remove my current chain to clean it, I hang it next to the old &quot;known bad&quot; chain and eyeball the length difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is only practical if you have an easily removed chain, such as the SRAM &quot;powerlink&quot; models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T17:07:26.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7965" CreationDate="2012-02-04T19:03:27.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Vibration&quot; could indicate a bad chain angle or a misadjusted derailer.  On the other hand, it's typical to have smoothest operation near the middle of the cluster and some very slight noise/vibration higher and lower.  Hard to say whether you have a problem or not without knowing the precise nature and severity of what you're experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a chain will last roughly 2000mi or 3000km (+/- 50%).  After that it's sufficiently worn that it's beginning to cause excessive wear on the sprockets.  A rear cluster will last roughly 5000mi/8000km under normal use but will wear faster if a worn chain is being used.  Also, if you're on your third cluster your front chainring is likely fairly worn, though the condition of a single front ring is usually not a major issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T19:03:27.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7969" CreationDate="2012-02-04T19:58:08.150" Score="3" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a new bicycle, unfortunately I am struggling to fit the existing luggage rack I had to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The eyelets for connecting the rack to the bicycle are positioned below the top of the wheel, so unless the rack is positioned at a very severe angle (to the point the legs no longer reach the holes near the hub of the wheel) it will not fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my previous bicycle the eyelets were much higher than the top of the wheel, so there was no problem at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to get around this problem, or am I going to have to buy a new rack with the appropriate fitting?&#xA;I've uploaded two photographs to illustrate the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/cgHSk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://i.imgur.com/cgHSk.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/YHocz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://i.imgur.com/YHocz.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3389" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T22:28:55.543" Title="Problem fitting luggage rack to bicycle" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7968" CreationDate="2012-02-04T22:28:55.543" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front mounting straps on standard luggage racks are meant to be bent as needed to fit the bike.  It appears that bending them down just slightly and sliding them back in their slots should produce a nice alignment of the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T22:28:55.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7965" CreationDate="2012-02-04T22:52:08.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that part of the folding mechanism is not aligned well resulting in frame flex under the heavier loads of the highest gears&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T22:52:08.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7945" CreationDate="2012-02-05T00:38:52.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With two wood blocks in a vise or drawn together by long bolts, you can grip a sprocket without damage. In the years when I placed a sprocket on my road hub (no lockring, even though a bottom bracket lockring would fit as a jam nut), it finally was on so solidly that I could skid the rear wheel without breaking free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to recall that in desperation one day, since it was a fixed gear bike, that I left the chain on the rear sprocket, while off the front sprocket allowing me to wrap the slack around the BB and secure it somehow. Then I could rotate the rear wheel forward by hand, which was able to release the sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A home-made chain whip is not too hard -- metal about 1/8&quot; thick, drilled to allow a chain pin through. I don't think I added a length of chain for sprocket support, but rather let the 'whip' chain wrap around the sprocket. The metal piece had to be reinforced with wood to prevent buckling.&#xA;Jim Papadopoulos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3390" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T00:38:52.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7976" CreationDate="2012-02-05T03:15:10.523" Score="9" ViewCount="7274" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is about the economics of owning and maintaining a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a brand new mountain bike for $250 some months ago. I ride about 30 miles a week on paved trails for occasional exercising. The cost of a yearly tune up in my area is about $80. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I forgo the tune up and buy a new bike every 2 or 3 years? The bike was bought online and is of similar or better quality than those cost $350+ at REI. Entry level but for my purpose it is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3391" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T17:27:57.413" Title="Should I tune up or replace bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7989" CreationDate="2012-02-05T03:23:01.730" Score="14" ViewCount="134790" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any tricks to setting the correct angle for the drop bars on my road bike, when adjusting my handlebars in the stem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just a matter of personal preference or is there a general consensus on what angle you should use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3392" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T20:09:23.773" Title="How do I correctly set the angle of my drop bars" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7973" CreationDate="2012-02-05T06:22:33.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are more than a few factors to consider when adjusting the angle of your drop bars. Moreover, it is important to consider that your stem length and angle, in combination with drop bar dimensions and shape, will affect your final drop bar's ideal (albeit ultimately personal) setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll use the following image for my examples below: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OfPkN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the bar alone, as a floating object in 3-dimensional space. The alignment of the drop portion of the bar in relation to the ground provides a starting point for creating a natural alignment. Commonly, you will find the ends of the drops to extend to the tail of the bike in a parallel fashion to the floor. However, due to the wide variety of bar shapes, this method will fail to help you set up your bars. As seen in the example image, the drop portion extends towards the floor due to the &quot;short&quot; drop segment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In combination with the brifter, some may prefer the connection between the bar's tops and the brifter's hood to be parallel to the ground. This creates a smooth transition between the bar and brifter, creating a comfortable surface for your hand to rest on for long periods of time. The example image shows this quite well. The hoods resting area has a smooth transition with the bar. The angle of this resting area is a matter of personal preference, but as with any adjustment, a neutral 0 degree (parallel to floor) setting will do (as in our example image).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal method for adjusting the combination of bar angle and brifter angle would be to remove the bar tape and start from scratch (bare bar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as @DanielRHicks mentions, this all comes down to personal preference, however a good starting point always helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3394" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-06T20:01:55.197" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T20:01:55.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2012-02-05T07:40:21.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this question is over 1 year old, I thought I'd share a new iPhone mount that I've just come across. Its called the &lt;strong&gt;Quad Lock&lt;/strong&gt; and has a mounting system very similar to the Garmin and Bryton GPS computers (uses a quarter turn mount that attaches to the stem):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.quadlockcase.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.quadlockcase.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have one (nor do I have any association with the company) and they are not shipping the units until late March. The only critism that I have is it does not protect the iPhone from the weather. However, they say they're developing a weatherproof version of the case, to be released later this year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xAkuG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3392" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T07:40:21.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7972" CreationDate="2012-02-05T11:30:15.803" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Politely ask the bike shop what you are getting for that $80 tune-up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm of the same mind as @danielrhicks, $80 sounds a lot for a tune-up, unless they are trueing your wheels (in which case you're paying for the mechanics skills), and replacing parts (in which case you're paying for...parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what they are doing for that $80, I would be trying to do some/all of that tune-up myself - regular cleaning, pumping of tires, checking &quot;stuff&quot; isn't loose, visual check wheels aren't buckled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have the basic skills of bike upkeep, maybe there is a local community centre, or bike club that give free classes on how to take care of your bike...or even ask questions here! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, if you take regular care of your bike then the big jobs are seldom and cost less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not saying don't get those regular tune-ups, but maybe you can ask them to focus on the brake cables/wheel straightening - jobs you can't do yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T11:30:15.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2012-02-05T13:40:58.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth velcro and rubber are extremely good for this sort of application. I use one of these rubber blocks with velcro straps to attach my LED Lenser to my MTB, it holds really tight and if you position it right there is minimal shake. One day I decided to see how it would handle my iPhone so I could watch/hear endomondo giving me my lap times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The obvious limitation is; you have a strap across the front of the phone which limits your view and what buttons you can press. On the plus side, it's a pretty cheap solution (normally about £5 or less - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&amp;amp;_nkw=torch%20velcro%20bike&amp;amp;_sacat=See-All-Categories&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ebay search results&lt;/a&gt;) and with some slight modification I don't see any reason why you couldn't attach an iphone case with a slit in the back for your phone to sit in.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The strap on the right is for a gun torch mount, you can see that the curves in the rubber block are set in the same direction, this could be used to mount your device in landscape, or on the stem.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2pOOV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;velcro and rubber strap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3361" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T13:40:58.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2012-02-05T18:27:53.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't tell you which one to get, but I can tell you which company I've had experience with and that I would steer away from. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004EC1Q8U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Biologic Bike Mount&lt;/a&gt; for the iPhone 3G/3GS was a terrible product, and expensive to boot. It was cheaply constructed, the handlebar mount and case closure did not inspire confidence, the plastic screen was hard to see through and made the phone's touch response spotty, the home button was hard to press, and the case contained a rubber gasket that was not integrated into the case and fell out everytime it was opened. Without the gasket, the case was worthless. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;No surprise that eventually the gasket fell out and was never seen again. The company's customer service dept was unhelpful, telling me repeatedly that I could buy the gasket separately. If that was true, no one carried it. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;It was a great way to waste 60 bucks.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now they have a case out for the iPhone 4 and perhaps it's improved, but after my prior experience with their products I would not purchase from them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T18:27:53.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7981" CreationDate="2012-02-05T19:38:55.247" Score="10" ViewCount="2302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gone a few years without riding at all, and I'm getting back into cycling to improve my fitness. I've typically ridden light mountain bike trails in the past. I want buy a new/second-hand road bike for commuting but I don't want to spend a huge amount of money. I'm still new to riding on the road, and don't know if it's something I'll be able to keep up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I was told by someone I know to be a proficient rider not to spend any less than £500(GBP) on a road bike if I wanted anything worthwhile. However, I don't want to become a typical &quot;&lt;em&gt;all the gear, no idea&lt;/em&gt;&quot; by blowing all my money on a bike that is way beyond my needs or ability. My problem is picking a bike that matches my needs and ability with limited knowledge of commuting by bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you could translate my question to &quot;&lt;em&gt;What should a new road cyclist look for in a bike?&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: With a little shopping around I've seen this bike which is appealing to me: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Woodworm-White-Lightning-Road-Racing/dp/B0073C9658/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1328470486&amp;amp;sr=1-1.&quot;&gt;Woodworm White Lightning Road Racing Bike &lt;/a&gt; Would that be suitable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3398" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-05T19:52:42.797" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T01:31:12.823" Title="Picking a bike for a cyclist new to riding on the road?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7979" CreationDate="2012-02-05T21:57:56.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Recently I was told by someone I know to be a proficient rider not to spend any less than £500(GBP) on a road bike if I wanted anything worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked a related question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2767/1097&quot;&gt;What bike+equipment for a long daily urban commute?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on answers to that question, I bought the bike which I describe at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/3056/1097&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/3056/1097&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike itself (functional but without accessories) cost about CAD$700 (which might be that much in the UK, I don't know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I found that brilliant. It's amazing how easy it is to reach, much higher speeds than I did on a cheaper 'mountain bike'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the parts are strong, run well (run endlessly: low friction), shift (gears) at a click or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I previously commuted for years: but for about 6 km each way, using a basically a cheap bike. When I got my new job, with a further commute, I either had to move house or get a better bike, for the daily distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: part of the answer depends on what distance/speed you intend to use it for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for commuting I find that accessories like a pannier and fenders make my ride more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm still new to riding on the road, and don't know if it's something I'll be able to keep up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do or can spend more (or, spend enough) then you can enjoy it and it is feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, it's not for everyone (some don't like it; even with good equipment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, any bike is a lot better than no bike, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T21:57:56.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7979" CreationDate="2012-02-05T23:02:02.243" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;My usual answer to the question of &quot;What sort of new bike should a (relatively speaking) novice cyclist get&quot; is &quot;used&quot;.  Better to ride a year or two on a moderately priced used bike than to drop a bundle on the WRONG new bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Nothing wrong with your &quot;light mountain bike&quot;, BTW, other than you'd want smoother tires, the suspension may be too soft, and maybe your bike can't mount a rack very well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually you need to decide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight bars or drops?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many gears?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fenders?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answers to these questions can only come after you find out how often/far you're going to commute.  You may start out loafing along and discover that you like to sprint all the way (meaning drop bars would be a good idea).  You may start out a fair-weather cyclist and get so into it that you're riding in the rain (where you'll really appreciate a bike with sufficient wheel clearance for fenders) or in the snow (where your current mountain bike, with studded tires, might be just the ticket).  You may start out cycling just a half-mile each way to work, then discover that you like to take &quot;shortcuts&quot; of a few miles.  (I ride 10 miles to work, but commonly take a &quot;shortcut&quot; in the morning that adds another 25.)  You may discover that you bike to the grocer and to the theatre on weekends.  You may carry a change of clothes in a small fanny pack, or you may need panniers to carry clothes and laptop/papers for work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you may discover that you don't really like cycling that much and just do that occasional half-mile jaunt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's also important to get a bike that FITS well, especially if you'll be riding any distance.  This means the right height for your leg length, the right top bar length for your torso length, an overall geometry that suits the flexibility of your body (understanding, BTW, that excess avoirdupois significantly limits ones ability to lean forward and low on the drops).  Some of this a good bike shop person can help you with, but to a large degree you must learn &quot;fit&quot; from trial and error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T23:02:02.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7926" CreationDate="2012-02-05T23:44:03.997" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the winter when the garden hose is disconnected I use a watering can filled with warm water to wash the dirt/salt off the bike before taking it in. I use mild detergent soap to speed up the removal of oil and grease then pour the warm water from the can to remove the soap.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ocIKO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Watering can to clean the bike in winter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T23:44:03.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="468" CreationDate="2012-02-06T12:31:14.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For bigger kids:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.workcycles.com/home-products/child-transport-bicycles/onderwater-family-tandem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.workcycles.com/home-products/child-transport-bicycles/onderwater-family-tandem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3DzKk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T12:31:14.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7972" CreationDate="2012-02-06T15:40:08.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started doing my own maintenance way back when rather than pay &quot;shop rates&quot;.    Simple adjustments of the sort you mention are easy to learn to do and require a minimum of tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the price of one &quot;tune up&quot; you could buy a nice repair book and a set of basic tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T15:40:08.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7945" CreationDate="2012-02-06T16:22:20.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To complete jm2's advice : you'll need the lockring tool. You could borrow it to your friend or go to your local bicycle workshop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is indeed an &quot;ingenious technique&quot; I've successfully used to screw the sprocket without using any chainwhip : use your chain ! It has been described here by guys from Milano, I assume you can use it to unscrew your sprocket : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Securing a track socket without lock ring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3239" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T01:46:48.427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T01:46:48.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7973" CreationDate="2012-02-06T16:57:45.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will post my &quot;non-specialist&quot; way to do this setup, considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have no current bicycle with drop bars;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've been bred on bicycles riding flat-bar mountain bikes, no tape;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have more than one bicycle, and the following method is the only one I use for any bike (currently use a lot of riser bars, have used some albatross-style bars).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With your chosen stem already tight in place, and your saddle the height you usually ride, install only the naked bar(bare metal), and don't tighten it too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the brake levers in a &quot;starting position&quot; (but not the bar tape) and attach them to the brakes so they actually brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On an empty parking lot or the like, ride the bike while trying a lot of handlebar positions, rotating the dropbars forwards and backwards until you can grab a good and comfortable grip either in the drops, or in the upper parts. Don't overemphasize the brake lever position for now. Instead, focus on the bar position itself. Let the clamping bolts a bit loose, so you can get the &quot;sweet spot&quot; with precision and without too much effort. When done, tighten the stem bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat previous step for the levers, clamping them lower or higher. Find the ideal balance between comfortable &quot;in the hoods&quot; position, both for hand rest and brake reach, and a good brake reach in the drops. You can use the &quot;classic position&quot; (whatever it might be) as a reference, but not as a measure of quality. Your comfort, functionality and safety should always be the measuring rule. When done, tighten the brake levers clamping bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After tightening everything in position, go out for a short ride &quot;in the field&quot;, perhaps in light traffic, or in the road (a rolling terrain with crossings would be perfect), and perform some final adjustments;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get back home and wrap the tape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, these steps might be adapted freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-02-06T20:09:23.773" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T20:09:23.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7972" CreationDate="2012-02-06T17:27:57.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bikes should not be disposable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A nice and good bike that fits you is worth much more than the material value of the bicycle itself, even if it is expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finding a good bicycle is more (and much more difficult) than just paying for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my (biased) suggestion would be: keep riding, keep going &quot;stronger&quot;, keep getting pleasure from it, and notice how much you can benefit from quality over cheapness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, if you ride for fitness (or even SPECIALLY so), your health (or lack thereof) due to bicycling itself in the first place, might be worth way more than the elusive cost savings of buying and spending &quot;cheap&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal and lots of friends' experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A good bike makes you ride more;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bad bike makes you ride less;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A good bike lasts WAY longer than a bad one, and you will always ride with best quality;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tune-up on a good bicycle lasts WAAAAYYY longer than the same tune-up on a low-profile bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get your money back, but you cannot get your time back, or your health back, or your pleasure back;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(this I got on the web) &quot;The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T17:27:57.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7973" CreationDate="2012-02-06T18:55:04.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Handlebars will be mounted parallel to the ground or angled slightly upward. While they may never be pointed down at all, they may be angled up slightly; allowed handlebar tilt is to be between 180 and 175 degrees with respect to the level road. The brake levers will preferably be mounted such that the end of the brake lever is even with the bottom of the bar.  Modern bars, however, dictate that this may not always be possible, so tolerances are permitted within reason. Brake hoods should not approach anything near 45 degrees, as some riders with poor taste have been insisting on doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/blog/the-rules/#46&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T18:55:04.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7991" CreationDate="2012-02-06T23:46:14.583" Score="6" ViewCount="1992" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have direct experience with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/team-race-stand-prs-20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ParkTool Team Race Stand&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;other brands/models&lt;/strong&gt; of bottom bracket repair stands? If so, do you like it and why? A good answer for me will include the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Describe your personal experiences using this type/model of stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What characteristics of the Team Race Stand make it better/worse than the alternatives?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other repair stands like the Team Race Stand have you tried?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the Team Race Stand best at? What is it worst at?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping for a new repair stand and very interested in the ParkTool. I have a 20 year old folding ParkTool stand that clamps onto the frame and it's not suitable for my newer bicycles. In my household we have 3 road bikes (2 carbon), 2 commuter bikes and 1 mountain bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reviews for the ParkTool stand are generally good, but unfortunately the product is not heavily reviewed; and none of the local shops stock this model so that I can get a first hand look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I am familiar with and have used several models of &quot;seat-clamp&quot; repair stands, so I don't need a description of how those work.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rMMFT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ParkTool Team Race Stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T16:46:23.057" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T16:46:23.057" Title="Bottom bracket repair stand experience" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;repair-stand&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7990" CreationDate="2012-02-07T04:45:08.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 types of repair stands. The bottom bracket version you pictured is compact, stable, and travels well. It is a good stand if you are using it occasionally for your own maintenance. Downside: You can only work on one end of the bike at a time. That makes it slow, and awkward for mechanics doing volume of work, or if you want to just quickly throw your bike in a stand for a gear check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seat post mounted stands are larger (generally, sometimes, but not always less stable, but far quicker and easier to use. Downsides depend on the model, but generally: Less stability, and more difficulty working on an aero bike due to frame and seat post shapes not fitting in the clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aero bikes are where the BB mounted stands excel, and are the primary and most useful quality that they have and why we have 2 in our workshop. If your frame doesn't work in a seat post clamp based stand, they are your best option. FWIW, I've used the Park PRS-20 and 21, and the Tacx Spider Team. The Tacx is more stable but a far larger footprint. The park has better UX design, more user friendly position swaps, and things like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T10:10:26.040" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T10:10:26.040" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7996" CreationDate="2012-02-07T10:49:43.737" Score="2" ViewCount="5195" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are things to improve on a cheap bicycle that make a real difference? I'm looking at the bang for buck tradeoff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is an inexpensive Fixie/Track Bike (less than 150GBP). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11 kg steel frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat bar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front and rear V-Brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T12:36:06.233" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T12:36:06.233" Title="Best bang for the buck to improve a cheap fixie?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2111" CreationDate="2012-02-07T11:48:30.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Cardo BK-1 is a new product and first of its kind on the market, Bike to Bike intercom and Bluetooth connection to phone/MP3 player, from the makers of the scala-rider Motorcycle communications systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coming soon according to their website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardosystems.com/cardo-bk/cardo-bk-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cardosystems.com/cardo-bk/cardo-bk-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The BK-1 product line has been acquired by Terrano, LCC. and will from now on be marketed under the Terrano-X label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://terranosystems.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://terranosystems.com/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://terranosystems.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://terranosystems.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3409" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T00:29:53.297" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:29:53.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2012-02-07T11:50:42.677" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In that order (my opinion, of course):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires. Bad tires suck your energy and are prone to flats. Good tires can make your bike fly, sometimes even act as a suspension. As an extra, tires aren't actually part if the bike, so if you have good tires, you can use it in other bike(s);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes and brake levers. This is safety and comfort. Bad brakes can make your hands sore, if you have to squeeze them too much to stop. Good brakes give you much more control of the bike than anything else. Good brakes are THE things that allow you to go really fast if you want/need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle and grips. These are contact points on the bike. In the end, all the bike-rider interaction flows through them (and the shoes you use to pedal, but they are not part of the bike). These parts alone can turn a very nice ride into a very painful one, and vice-versa.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if these are OK, it's possible to live with a relatively cheap bike, provided it fits and don't require too much mainteinance, which are also required for a nice biking experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T16:05:42.220" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T16:05:42.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2012-02-07T12:43:53.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to do is to get the bike completely tuned up -- wheels trued, bearings adjusted, shifters adjusted, brakes adjusted.  Changing out the brake pads (the ones supplied are often too hard or too soft) can often improve braking effectiveness.  Depending on the bike design, adjusting brake lever position may or may not be possible and may or may not improve riding comfort and brake effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, adjust the seat and handlebar.  If the handlebar can't be adjusted upward enough or has the wrong &quot;reach&quot; (probably even more common with expensive bikes) then replacement parts are available to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good quality tires, appropriate to your riding style, are a fairly cheap investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right seat (which is something of a personal choice) can make a big difference in comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your critical factors are comfort, stability, braking effectiveness, and ease of use (eg, shifters that work reliably, etc).  Plus basic bike &quot;fit&quot; to your body.  Many of the features of fancier bikes -- light weight, exotic materials, bladed spokes, et al -- are vastly overrated and will make little difference in your riding experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T12:43:53.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2012-02-07T16:30:29.567" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a bike that costs, new, only 150GBP, you have to ask where the savings will have been made and the easy first answer is: everywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The frame will likely not be massively stiff and will be fairly fragile in comparison with its more expensive peers. Steel is fairly forgiving giving a comfortable ride, but you don't want too much give. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The wheels will probably need attention too, expect the tyres to be thin and offer little puncture protection, the rims will be weak and probably lose their trueness relatively quickly and the hubs and bearings will need TLC quite soon too. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Expect the chain to be thinner and stretchier than you'd like and the rear cog to lose its bite quickly. The brake compound will be soft and disappear fast and the cables won't hold their tension for long. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously these are all worse case scenarios - but given that you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; spend the purchase price on just a pair of tyres, a pair of inner tubes and two pairs of brake pads - a bike at this price isn't necessarily the saving you might hope for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to get from A to B, this bike would work, but if A and B are too far apart and you're making that journey fairly frequently, then it might not work for that long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to make a &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; difference, well, send it back and spend a little more up front. In general all new bikes make some concessions to price, but they'll be more than the sum of their parts. The manufacturers pay less than you'd be able to buy the components in the shop, so you'd be better off finding a better bike to start with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the old Irish saying goes, &quot;if you want to get there, I wouldn't start from here.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T16:30:29.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7999" CreationDate="2012-02-07T19:50:36.703" Score="6" ViewCount="5288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a frame that I've built up and I'm having trouble getting the tension perfect on the headset, which is not usually something I have trouble with. A friend of mine who is much more knowledgeable than I about these things suggested that I should look into facing the head tube. I've read that it's not always necessary. Is there much truth to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: Nothing is damaged or chipped. The frame has its factory paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T20:58:56.260" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T06:25:41.610" Title="How important is it to face the head tube?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7997" CreationDate="2012-02-07T21:01:51.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it start out tight enough, but loosen as you ride it? I had an older steel frame years ago that would do this. The faces were not cut completely parallel so they had to be faced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's been repainted as cbamber85 mentioned, it could also be affecting the seating of the cups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T21:01:51.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7997" CreationDate="2012-02-07T21:04:42.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most headset designs, bearings sit between a pair of cups and races, one half on the fork steerer and the other half press-fit into the head tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cups are not parallel at both ends of the head tube, then you'll find it difficult to adjust the headset to the proper tension without binding - the cup will be meeting the race at an angle and it can seem too loose in some places and too tight in others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of facing is ensuring that the ends of the head tube are parallel. The previous question of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7753/why-dont-frame-manufacturers-ream-face-their-frames&quot;&gt;Why don't frame manufacturers ream/face their frames?&lt;/a&gt; addresses a little bit how a new frame can end up needing to be faced.  In general many frames manufactured today don't need it, but if you are having issues it's certainly worth pursuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T21:04:42.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-08T01:00:33.957" Score="4" ViewCount="3240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the below groupset a good value for this frame? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked up a vintage SuperCycle Medalist frame (I'm guessing 1970s) and am looking to make a comfortable but capable bike for commuting and general urban cycling. It has a few parts that I'll clean and evaluate while I rebuild, but for the sake of argument, let's say that I only keep the frame/fork, cable guide clamps, and perhaps stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropbox.com/u/614041/web/20120207_173951.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Supercycle Medallist&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.ca/120852621942&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano 105 early- to mid-1990s SLR groupset on eBay&lt;/a&gt; for ~$480 shipped. It includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BR-1055 brakeset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HB-1055 + FH-1056 Hubs 32 holes laced to AMBROSIO Elite Wheelset 700C 622x13C (pictures indicate tubes and tires may also be included, although that's not a huge concern)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FD-1056 + RD-1055 front and rear derailleurs, respectively (will need a 28.6 mm adapter clamp for the braze-on FD)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BB-UN71 bottom bracket, English threading&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;STI-1055 shifter 2x8 speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FC-1056 Crankset SG 53/39 (170 mm, 9/16x20)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano 105 Headset Italian Thread (I'm guessing HP-1055)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano PD-1056 Pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;134 cm chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano Freehub 8 speed (13.14.15.17.19.21.23.26.) (I'm guessing standard HG50)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issues with my bike are minor and twofold. First, my frame and fork spacing will need to be widened slightly by cold setting: from 126 to 130 mm in the dropouts and from 96 to 100 mm at the fork. Second, I would require nutted brakes and perhaps a longer reach as I plan to use 700C wheels in a bike that was likely 27&quot;. So instead of using the BR-1055 brakes, I'd pick up some Tektro R559s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question is whether or not this groupset + wheels is a decent value.&lt;/strong&gt; It is attractive for me given that individual parts come with individual shipping costs and vintage/used parts are excruciatingly difficult to source locally where I live. I built a bike last year with Shimano 600 components and while the final product is absolutely amazing, the costs for sourcing individual parts added up quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.077" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T03:22:07.103" Title="Shimano 105 early- to mid-1990s SLR groupset on eBay worth it for 70s SuperCycle rebuild?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-08T01:55:56.967" Score="2" ViewCount="1981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking around my local bike shop and saw that the hybrids have a slim tire while a mountain has a more fatter tire. And when i researched it says the opposite. Please help me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3417" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T06:43:58.157" Title="Does a hybrid truely have a wider tire or does a mountain have a wider tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8001" CreationDate="2012-02-08T02:01:47.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you saw is generally correct. In order of increasing tire size by bike type, it roughly goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;road bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hybrid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mountain bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are exceptions and variations on these bikes that fit in that continuum, but as a general rule for tire width it's pretty accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T02:01:47.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8001" CreationDate="2012-02-08T06:43:58.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you be confusing diameter with width?  Hybrids often have 700c wheels which are a larger diameter than 26&quot; wheels more common on Mountain Bikes.  The tire widths fitted to 700c tires are narrower than the mountain bike tires.  As user973810 says the width comparison normally goes as you observed from road bike to mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions aren't made any less confusing by the switch between metric and imperial, i.e 26&quot; vs 700mm.  Ditto for the widths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T06:43:58.157" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8008" CreationDate="2012-02-08T07:48:44.190" Score="4" ViewCount="3253" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exactly like the title says :) Well, I know how to ride bicycles, and I know they have 2 wheels, pedals and some gears, but almost nothing more than that :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I want to buy a bicycle and was lost between the options available in the market. I don't want a professional bicycle and I'm not planning to race with it... all I want is a bicyle that I can use for exercising and recreational activities, and is more advanced than delivery-boys bicycles :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing, I have a saloon/sedan car, and I very much prefer if that bicycle can be fitted in the trunk (maybe one of those that can be folded)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not looking for &quot;Bicycle Buying Guide for Dummies&quot; :) what I'm looking for is some guidance on what to look/ask for when I go hunting for a bicycle :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2298" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T17:25:41.670" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T17:25:41.670" Title="Looking to buy a bicycle for exercising and recreational activities, that will fit in a car" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8004" CreationDate="2012-02-08T09:36:53.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off you will need to have a think about what kind of riding you want to do. For roads you'll want a touring bike, and for off road, a mountain bike. The key differences are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight - riding rough trails and off road requires a strong frame. This will impact weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspension - again, this adds weight, but can be essential on really rough terrain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels and tyres - on the road smooth tyres require less effort, but off road you need grip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you'll want to find a good local bike shop (LBS) and ask about sizes. They will be able to advise on frame length, handlebars, seat type etc to suit you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; as mentioned below - get a helmet!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fitting in a car, as long as you can remove wheels (these days you can get all types of wheels with quick release mechanisms) you should be able to fit them. In a saloon car you may need to be able to drop back back seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At begineer level, you really don't need to think about much else as far as the bike is concerned, however you will want to get lights, a bike lock and other accessories such as a speedometer (maybe gps), water bottle, and also things like cycling gloves (your fingers can get very cold on a long ride) and cycling shorts (again, for a long ride, the padding can be very important!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T14:44:29.187" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T14:44:29.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8009" CreationDate="2012-02-08T17:10:32.970" Score="5" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to mix almonds, walnuts, raisins, cashews and dried blueberries together have them as a snack throughout the day. I've never tried this food source on a 25-50 mile ride. I'd like some thoughts from knowledgeable people on how good this would be to eat during a ride. Anything good to add to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T10:54:39.527" Title="Is this a good source of food for 25-50 mile ride?" Tags="&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8006" CreationDate="2012-02-08T17:19:45.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, any source of food is fine for a 25–50 mile ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although for anything of longer distance, you're going to want to add significant quantities of carbohydrates. Nuts are great, but they're primarily fat and protein. Toss some M&amp;amp;Ms and raisins into that mix for an improvement, and make sure there's some salt in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, 25–50 miles doesn't require any sort of well-tailored nutrition. Just bring water and any kind of tasty snacks and you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T17:19:45.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8004" CreationDate="2012-02-08T17:22:04.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best advice I'm seeing here is to go to your bike shop and try out a few bikes. When you have a few test rides behind you, then you'll have a better idea of what questions to ask. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this boils down to: Test-ride a few bikes, buy one, have fun with it. Everything else is details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bike types&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd concentrate my search on hybrids and hardtail mountain bikes. (&quot;Hardtail&quot; means without rear suspension. Unless your budget is quite generous, you won't find good rear suspension in an &quot;introductory&quot; price range.) Mountain bikes are comfortable, easy to use, and agile. Hybrids are similar, but more suited to riding on asphalt. Both avoid the complications and expense of offroad machines and dedicated super-light road bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cruisers are an attractive alternative if you're okay going a little slow, but it's hard to fit one of those machines into a car trunk or back seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Saddles&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unintuitive, but wide, cushy saddles are not the most comfortable. Unless you're getting a cruiser or other bike where you sit bolt-upright, these will chafe and become uncomfortable in short order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, hard, narrow racing saddles aren't appropriate for recreational and casual riding like you have planned. So I'd look for something in-between the two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tires&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most mountain bikes come with knobby tires, the ones that have square protrusions sticking out of the rubber. These are designed for riding on dirt, and aren't great for riding on the road. Fortunately, tires are fairly inexpensive. You can ride on the road on knobbies if you're okay with the speed hit. (I did my first 50-mile ride on knobbies.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Folding bikes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll mention this since you brought it up as a possibility. Folding bikes are more expensive than their non-folding counterparts of comparable quality. The market for them is smaller, driving up costs, and the hardware that allows them to fold also costs money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Folding bikes can take a little getting used to, particularly the ones with tiny wheels. (Say, 16&quot; and under.) They feel a little &quot;twitchy&quot; when you first ride them, and I suspect that this is why people say they're all bad bikes. However, you not only get used to this but you discover that these tiny-wheeled bikes are agile and fun. Folders can become an addiction quite easily, but they're usually not a good first bike. And the really bad ones (generally anything under $400US) are on a par with &lt;a href=&quot;http://magnificentnose.com/2011/07/04/why-bikes-from-big-box-stores-are-dangerous/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the worst big-box bikes&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're willing to pay a little more, I recommend these bikes (I own two of them and love them) but be aware that you can get a better bike for the same money if you're willing to forgo the folding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As has been mentioned, most bikes will fit in the rear seat of a car by simply removing the front wheel. But it sure is nice to fold up a bike and put it in your trunk, or the passenger seat. Or under your desk at work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Accessories&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a helmet and tuck your right trouser leg into your sock. Anything else can wait until you need it. But here's what you may want to get later on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Riding for more than half an hour at a time? You might want some cycling gloves. If you're doing this in the cold, they also make &lt;a href=&quot;http://magnificentnose.com/2011/09/16/winter-cycling-gloves-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;winter cycling gloves&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pants leg getting torn up? You can splurge on a pants clip. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Planning to ride in traffic? You can either wear visible clothing (bright colors) or get yourself a reflective jacket or safety vest. Gonna ride in the rain? They make &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1950/recommended-budget-waterproof-jacket&quot;&gt;reflective rain gear&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Want to haul stuff? A backpack will do the job, or you can get a rack. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Riding at night? It's not as scary as it sounds. Make sure you have that reflective gear on, and pick up some lights. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speedometer? GPS? Cycling shorts? If you need them, you'll figure it out, but none of this is needed when you're getting started. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T17:22:04.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8006" CreationDate="2012-02-08T18:24:41.957" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The EXPERIENCED CYCLIST, who is not, eg, out of shape after a long winter does not need any food for 50 road miles.  This is because his muscles and liver have &quot;learned&quot; to store extra sugar/carbs to provide energy over a long period of time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a beginning cyclist who is not, say, already a distance runner or otherwise used to exercising vigorously for several hours DOES need some extra carbs along the way to keep his blood sugar up, not, perhaps, for a 25 mile ride, but for a 50 mile one.  (Note, you DON'T want large amounts of fat or protein -- these do nothing to help your sugar levels and they are hard to digest.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The form of the carbs is not especially critical, other than the food should be chosen for convenience, neatness (you don't, eg, want chocolate smeared all over your hands), and personal taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid foods with any significant amount of fat, and avoid spicy or strongly flavored foods -- these may seem appetizing at the store but do not go down well or &quot;sit&quot; well on the road, especially if you allow yourself to become a hair dehydrated (which of course you shouldn't do, but it happens).  A modest amount of salt is desired, but too much (without enough water) can send your stomach on a spin.  (The nut-raisin snack, by itself, is just a tad &quot;heavy&quot; for my taste, and may be a hair too heavy in terms of fat.  But as one of a small variety of snacks it's fine, and likely a decent source of salt.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say figure on about 500 calories of mostly carb snacks for a 50-mile, 3-hour ride.  This isn't nearly enough to replace the calories you burn, but it is enough to prevent a low blood sugar condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, HYDRATE!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T20:22:27.800" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T20:22:27.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8013" CreationDate="2012-02-08T18:45:17.000" Score="6" ViewCount="14730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a flat tire, kind of a big hole in the inner tube. It was raining a lot so I walked home through the rain and water puddles, and everything got wet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I want to patch the inner tube, but when I inflate the tube, some kind of whiteish liquid is coming out of the hole. I don't know if it is water that got inside (it's not that much anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to wait until everything dries inside the inner tube (could take a long time) or is this is some kind of lube that comes inside it? If so, is it fair to say I don't have to worry and I can apply the patch with no problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T19:21:00.967" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T20:04:35.880" Title="Flat tire: white liquid inside the tube" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8018" CreationDate="2012-02-08T19:18:36.250" Score="0" ViewCount="3152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike set up with a dura ace 7800 derailleur, specifically listed as a 9 or 10 speed model. I am interested in getting it working in the 10-speed configuration. Two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I remember reading somewhere that you have to rout the cable a certain way to get it to work with 10 speeds, but I can't remember how to do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't get it to rest in the bottom gear even when the limit screw is all the way out and the cable isn't attached. I can easily force it into place, though. I am considering taking out a spacer from behind my cassette that the instructions said I would be needing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T19:23:36.733" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T00:08:32.270" Title="Getting a dura ace 7800 derailleur to work with 10 speeds" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8011" CreationDate="2012-02-08T19:34:10.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know what to say.  I didn't have any trouble with mine in 10 speed configuration.  I didn't do any special cable routing, just backed the limit screws all the way out (I seem to recall there's an outer AND inner limit screw?) and tweaked until it worked...  Only thing of note that I remember at all was moving one of the spacers on my cassette so that it would freewheel (cassette I'm using says it's not compatible with the wheels I use and indeed turns the bike into a fixie, but I found that moving a spacer makes it compatible and lets it freewheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T19:34:10.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8010" CreationDate="2012-02-08T20:04:35.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a type of whitish liquid sealant that some folks (shops, manufacturers) put inside tubes, so that if you have a small puncture it is autimatically sealed by the liquid, which solidifies around the tiny puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you say, it is not possible to say if that is the case, or if the puncture is larger and water went inside the tube. That would theoretically allow for the powder inside the tube to form a gooish liquid, although I doubt there would be enough amount of water for it to be noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, patch glue doesn't mix well with these white sealants, in every tube I patched that already had this liquid the patch got loose soon after, resulting in another flat. So I gave up these sealants forever, unless something new and different appears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest, in this case of doubt, that you use the tube's rubber for another stuff (tying something at home ;oP ) and buy a new tube. That is not so expensive, and buyng new tubes is integral part of cycling, anyway. Besides, you could cut the old tube to look inside it and get more info which could save you future trouble (Where did this tube come from? Would other new tubes contain the same liquid? Was it sealant or just water? Etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saving old ones for &quot;reuse&quot; too, they are much more useful in the basement than in the landfill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T20:04:35.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-09T00:17:54.740" Score="10" ViewCount="3265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a bicycle, mostly for exercise and fun. I am not fat, but I am really out of shape, I get tired quickly and cannot stand very long rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know riding a bike constantly will reduce this, but the area I live are not very plain, which I would consider better. Most of the time I'm going (slightly) uphill or downhill; I'd like my bike rides to be &quot;smoother&quot; than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to optimize my ride, so I can get the most of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap road bike. It has only 12 gears, but except for steep hills, the gears are ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3406" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T16:54:46.223" Title="Best way to train in an area with many hills" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8015" CreationDate="2012-02-09T01:09:44.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Master hill climbing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hills are generally what separate the cycling wheat from the chaff, and provide a great workout. Generally people are wary of hills because they are climbing with the wrong technique. There are some other questions that deal with hill-climbing technique, I suggest you check some out. E.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5528/how-should-i-approach-hills&quot;&gt;How should I approach hills?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T01:09:44.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8015" CreationDate="2012-02-09T02:44:11.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can climb a hill basically three different ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spinning up the hill in low gear at high RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charging up the hill standing up (or at least really pumping the muscles sitting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grinding up the hill at 20-30 RPM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of those, the third one is a good way to wreck your knees and generally make yourself miserable.  The other two, however, are both perfectly acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you divide hills into those that are short enough you can comfortably &quot;charge&quot; up, and those that are longer and more challenging.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the short ones (and &quot;short&quot; is purely a personal choice) you typically downshift a bit and then raise your exertion level to something near your comfortable maximum, probably dropping your RPM a little but maintaining at least 60 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the longer hills (and maybe a few shorter ones at the end of a long day) you downshift a fair bit more, raise your exertion level only a little, and &quot;spin&quot; at roughly the same RPM you'd use on level ground (though truth be told mine always falls off a bit), adjusting gears up/down to maintain that RPM and exertion level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing you want to do is to use your gears to maintain the &quot;sweet spot&quot; where you're holding a relatively steady RPM (somewhere between 60 and 90) and also maintaining an exertion level that you can sustain for the long haul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if your bike doesn't have a broad enough gear range to &quot;spin&quot; up longer hills then you have a problem.  You can try &quot;charging&quot;, but that can run you ragged pretty quickly.  So (since you should NOT &quot;grind&quot; up the hill) you probably need to figure a different route that is more suitable to your bike and fitness level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One basic rule of thumb I use while cycling that seems to work out pretty well is to always pedal faster than I breathe.  That is, if my respiration rate is 60 then I should be pedaling at least 70-80 RPM.  If I notice my RPM falling off or my respiration rate climbing, I downshift until my respiration rate drops a bit.  And on the flat I aim for an RPM that's twice my respiration rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T02:44:11.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8011" CreationDate="2012-02-09T03:46:20.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 limit (&quot;H&quot;, &quot;L&quot;) screws and one tension (&quot;B&quot;) screw on Shimano derailleurs. They all 3 need to be adjusted properly. My guess is you need to adjust the B-tension screw and/or the cable tension. There are excellent instructions at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sheldonbrown.com&lt;/a&gt;. I would advise that you carefully follow those instructions in order, and see how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DA 7800 should not require special cable routing &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/dura-ace.html#alternate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;unless you're using it with older shifters&lt;/a&gt;, but that's not likely to be the case since you said 10-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T03:46:20.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8015" CreationDate="2012-02-09T03:51:39.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There really are no shortcuts here. As Greg Lemond said, &quot;it never gets easier; you just go faster&quot; (this is true of every aspect of cycling, but particularly so with hills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with less-steep hills. Keep riding them, in the same gear, until you can do it comfortably. Then ride it with a harder gear. And keep repeating. Then move on to steeper hills, and do the same thing. Over and over and over. It never gets easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T03:51:39.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8015" CreationDate="2012-02-09T04:35:54.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I recently bought a bicycle, mostly for exercise and fun. I am not fat, but I am really out of shape, I get tired quickly and cannot stand very long rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a question, which I posted soon after I bought my bike: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/3221/1097&quot;&gt;How much rest (tendon or ligament), for a novice?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find the answers (to that question) helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know riding a bike constantly will reduce this, but the area I live are not very plain, which I would consider better. Most of the time I'm going (slightly) uphill or downhill; I'd like my bike rides to be &quot;smoother&quot; than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gears: try for a smooth 'cadence', cycling between 60 and 100 RPM, no matter what the slope: constant effort, constant cadence (but variable slope, gear, and speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_gearing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_gearing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a way to optimize my ride, so I can get the most of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you bought it &quot;mostly for exercise and fun&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought mine for commuting, which means two hours every day (one in the morning, one in the evening). Does that sound like &quot;exercise and fun&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A thing I like about cycling is that I can do it for a whole hour. It's not a sprint. It can include sprints. The first 20 minutes is warming up. My route is a mixture of paths and streets; and some slopes, some steep; some busy streets; some sprinting; many stops and starts, at intersections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these give a change in pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T05:13:26.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8025" CreationDate="2012-02-09T05:37:23.967" Score="6" ViewCount="24363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into replacing shifters on my MTB. Currently I have 8-speed Shimano Alivio shifters - will 9-speed Deore or SLX shifters work? I do not care if one of the shifter's position will be unreachable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later I may replace the cassette to 9 speed to, but I do not want to do this right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3427" LastEditorUserId="18861" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T20:34:45.140" LastActivityDate="2020-02-28T07:24:57.767" Title="Can I use a 9-speed shifter with a 8-speed cassette?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8024" CreationDate="2012-02-09T04:00:08.753" Score="5" ViewCount="4037" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been biking for a while now but mostly for my commute to work. Now, I am interested in doing longer rides and trails as summer is almost there :). I need a bike rack for my car, which is a sedan (Toyota Corolla). I have a road bike, and a mountain bike, so I might carry one or the other or both at times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I consider when buying bike rack / carrier for my car? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3432" OwnerDisplayName="Gaurav Sinha" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-03T17:35:34.103" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T17:40:06.170" Title="What type of bicycle rack should I buy for my car?" Tags="&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2012-02-09T13:23:51.127" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are basically 3 rack options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roof mounted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trunk mounted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trailer hitch mounted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;trunk mounted&quot; category there are those designed for conventional trunks and those designed for hatchbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all three categories there are racks that support the bike with both wheels on and &quot;fork mount&quot; racks that connect to the front fork to provide stability.  Fork mount is especially handy for rooftop racks since it eliminates the need for some sort of vertical support which is unstable and hard to attach.  But fork mount only works if you have a quick release on the front wheel and nothing such as a front rack that interferes with mounting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are arguments for/against all styles.  The rooftop units require some strength and a bit of &quot;tallness&quot; to use, but are otherwise the most flexible, and capable of carrying 4-5 bikes.  They do produce the most wind drag (and lost MPG) on long trips, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be hard to find a trunk-mount unit that suits your car.  And a trunk mount unit is generally only well-suited to a single bike, maybe 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trailer hitch units are pretty good -- easy to get the bike on/off, able to handle 2-3 bikes and not too sensitive to bike style.  But they are not particularly stable on rough roads, and they of course require a car with a (fairly heavy-duty) trailer hitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you decide to get a trailer hitch installed to accept a bike rack, try to get a 2-inch &quot;class 3&quot; one, rather than the smaller class 2.  This improves the stability of the rack.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T13:23:51.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8021" CreationDate="2012-02-09T13:34:05.797" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately you cannot do that. The COGSET and the SHIFTER must have the same &quot;distance&quot;, or more correctly, the same lateral distance (on the pulley) for each lenght of cable pulled (on the shifter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go from 7 to 8 speed, the distance between cogs is the same (because the freehub shell is longer), so you could use a 7 shifter with an 8 cogset and one gear would be unreachable;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when you go from 8 to 9 speed on the shifter, the expected distance between cogs change (because the freehub shell for 8, 9 and 10 speed is the same). Then you need a 9 speed cogset too, so that EACH shift will correspond to the CORRECT DISTANCE of lateral movement in the derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you move from 9 to 10, the same problem happens. That's a perverse kind of programmed obsolescence, in my opinion, since even cranksets end up being incompatible due to the chain being narrower and narrower... (look for the Sheldon Brown &quot;Nanodrive&quot; system).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the bottomline is: if you want to replace shifters, you'll have to replace the cogset, and probably the chain and cranks. I would not advise you to do so only for the sake of shifter change. Consider doing it only as a last resouce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I for one never changed to the 9+ speeds framework. I have 5 bikes in current use, all of them with the &quot;7/8 speed framework&quot;, and I can easily find spare parts like cogs. My 7 speed shifter (a very old Alivio) still works fine, and it seems to me it is very rare for the shifter to have a poor working only because it got old).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T13:34:05.797" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8015" CreationDate="2012-02-09T13:55:42.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestions would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider getting lower gears if you think you'll feel more comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When going up a hill, give up any hurry for now. Simply choose your gear and go. Don't think about moving the legs, just look around, think about life, world and things. You'll get to the top, your legs are going to get used to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep doing that, and soon you won't mind going up any hill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the arrival of abundantly geared bikes, going uphill is much more a mind problem than a leg problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute to work with a relatively steep (although short) hill in the way, sometimes with a relatively heavy bike, and basically I assume two &quot;modes&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I feel like climbing, I pump it up relatively fast, in a good cadence. This satisfies my thirst for exercise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I'm in a lazy mood, I choose a granny gear and go up only slightly faster than walking speed, &quot;thinking about life&quot; as I said. Don't look too much at the speed-meter, if you have one :oP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that, if you face the fact that hills are inevitable, and keep riding without avoiding them, each time more you'll be in the &quot;climbing mood&quot; instead of the &quot;lazy mood&quot;, specially after you lose some weight and gain some cardio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not to say you should become an athlete. It's just that you could ride anytime you want, and the fact of being hills doesn't matter anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T13:55:42.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8015" CreationDate="2012-02-09T14:16:21.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Most of the time I'm going (slightly) uphill or downhill&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;I was looking for techniques (or changes in route, or whatever) that would lessen the difference the needed effort (some while uphill, none while downhill) during my ride.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every (circular) route is partly up-hill and partly down-hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling (slightly) down-hill doesn't mean &amp;quot;low or no effort&amp;quot;: you still pedal (or even pedal hard); but you go faster (or even much faster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say, &amp;quot;I have a cheap road bike&amp;quot;; so I'm not sure how fast you can go, with safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a nice suspension-less 'hybrid' with flat bars and great brakes and tires, and derailleur gears with a 'big ring' on the front; and I can keep pedalling (and going fast) even down-hill: and especially when it's &amp;quot;slightly&amp;quot; down-hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also because you're travelling much faster down-hill, you finish the down-hill parts more quickly (and so spend a higher proportion of your time going more slowly up-hill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T15:11:51.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8015" CreationDate="2012-02-09T17:31:19.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, improving your hill climbing means riding hills. There is no way around it. (Well, maybe there is...:~)) In a nutshell, you just find a nice low gear and spin your way up. Like Daniel said in another answer, you pretty much don't want to grind your way up in a higher gear because your knees won't really like that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are some drills you can do to improve your hill climbing ability and shorten your time to climbing fitness. Do these drills a couple of times a week and not on consecutive days. The hills won't bother you so much after you do this for a month or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hill Repeats - Find a long, steady, moderate climb. Pedal up the hill for 5 minutes at 70 - 85 RPM. Turn around, pedal slowly for 5 minutes. Then repeat this 2 or 3 more times. (After you've done this a while, you can increase the climbing time and the number of repetitions.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hill Acceleration - Find a long, moderate climb. Pedal slowly until you reach the last 500 yards. Gradually speed up till you reach the top. Rest on the way back down. Do this 2 or 3 times in a session.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hill Sprints - Find a moderate hill with a longish flat approach at the bottom. Pedal at a moderate speed in a moderate gear, as you hit the hill, come out of the saddle and go hard up the hill until you hit your limit. Turn around, pedal back down and repeat it a couple more times. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do one of these drills in a training session. Say, hill repeats on Monday and hill sprints on Wednesday, for example. Also, don't do these drills more than 3 days a week; and don't do them on consecutive days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note - These drills are fairly basic and based on personal experience from living and riding in hilly/mountainous areas. And also based in part on training advice by &lt;a href=&quot;http://trainright.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chris Carmichael&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://joefriel.typepad.com/blog/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joe Friel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And also...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; You said that you are &quot;really out of shape&quot;. So, here's a plan to turn that around. Pick an easy/moderate less hilly route (Maybe a loop or maybe an out-and-back). Ride that for 30 minutes a day, 5 days a week with a rest day within the 5 days. Do that for maybe a month. Then when you feel more comfortable with it, start increasing the riding time 15 minutes every couple of weeks, and maybe make the route a little more hilly. In three months you'll be doing 2+ hour rides (depending on just how out of shape you are). Use the drills I mentioned above on a couple of days a week, and you'll get faster results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're fairly new to cycling and out of shape, I wouldn't worry too much about maintaining a specific cadence. Just find a comfortable gear and a comfortable pace. Once you can ride comfortably for an hour or so, then you can start thinking about cadence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.&quot; --  Confucius&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T16:54:46.223" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T16:54:46.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8037" CreationDate="2012-02-10T02:38:15.157" Score="19" ViewCount="49630" Body="&lt;p&gt;Picture the scene... It's just been raining and you are getting ready to commute home after work, you cycle out on to the tarmac, the scent of fresh rain on hot tarmac fills your nostrils, you notice a pedestrian push the button on the traffic lights up ahead, the lights turn red and you gently squeeze your brake to stop before the line but at the same time your brakes let out a horrific squeal frightening the pedestrians and ruining your street cred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's the deal? why do my disc brakes squeal when its wet, and is it possible to prevent this? Is it more common for disc brakes to squeal and why?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently riding a Scott Aspect 30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3361" LastEditorUserId="3361" LastEditDate="2017-01-31T17:13:32.557" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T04:12:42.703" Title="Why do my disc brakes squeal when wet?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2012-02-10T03:13:21.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With auto brakes it's because of the thin layer of corrosion that's built up on the rotors.  No experience with bike disks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T03:13:21.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-10T03:32:58.903" Score="5" ViewCount="3991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too am running out of space in my house to store my bikes.  I have three bikes inside my house and my 5 kids bikes are outside in a shed (which is also over crowded).  My idea is to buy a 6X12 enclosed trailer to store our bikes and modify it to also be like a bike shop.  We take our bikes everywhere.  My concern though is keeping the bikes in an environment that is not controlled.  Although they will be completely sealed off from rain, etc., they will still be exposed to varying temperatures and humidity.  Does anyone think storing these bikes in a trailer is a good idea?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3439" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T16:50:39.783" Title="Is storing bikes in an enclosed trailer a good idea?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2012-02-10T03:34:08.283" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My all-weather commuter bike has discs. In my experience, cleaning the discs with window cleaner (e.g. Windex) reduces the squealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allegedly, better results can be had by cleaning with automotive brake disc cleaner, but I've not yet tried this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T03:34:08.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8032" CreationDate="2012-02-10T04:09:08.143" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;So long as the trailer is reasonably weather-tight it shouldn't be a problem.  Since there's nothing in the trailer generating humidity, no significant condensation will occur, and, within reason, temperatures won't hurt bikes.  (The only caveat would be that you maybe should have some vents that can be opened if temps rise above 90F or so, so that temps don't get over about 150F inside.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T04:09:08.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2012-02-10T04:56:31.960" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Street Cred? I've almost lost trail ridding buddies due to squeaking brakes. Keep the pads clean and you'll brake much more quietly (unless your skidding and trying to be loud).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its most likely oil or other grimy substance built up on the pads. It can fly off your chain if you spin the cranks to help work in fresh lube. I try to be extra careful on my mountain bike with disc brakes when I lube my chain. Rotate very slowly putting one drip per bushing, then pedal very softly just a few rotations, so none flys off and potentially onto the pads. Let the lube settle in and wipe off any excess lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T04:56:31.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8032" CreationDate="2012-02-10T05:47:53.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's definitely not as good as storing them in a climate controlled environment like your house but if you're buying a camper-style trailer it's going to be a little better than throwing them in a shed out back and a lot better than leaving them out in the elements. As long as the bikes are getting ridden and maintained regularly, normal wear and tear should catch up to them before the effects of the storage method you have in mind will. Unless you're running a climate controlled environment the two things you're going to have to watch out for are high humidity levels, high temperatures.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're running an AC or storing your bikes in a giant ammmo box, humidity is going to be a concern. Keep in mind that even if you don't have a steel framed bike, many of your components are either made of steel or have steel bits which are especially susceptible to corrosion. Even if the trailer is reasonably well sealed you may want to consider getting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002DZMJ90&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chemical dehumidifier&lt;/a&gt;. These are often made of a type of clay or silica gel and you should be able to find them at your local hardware or home improvement store, or obviously online. If you find that they're getting used up faster than they should be then you probably have an issue with how well your trailer is sealed. Make sure to change the dehumidifier out as needed since the chemical type does get used up.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding temperatures, extreme heat is the one you really need to watch out for. High temperatures won't affect the metal parts of your bike but they will degrade most anything made of plastic or rubber over time. Try to position the trailer somewhere that doesn't get much sun. If you live in an arid climate, consider venting it during the summer. However if you live in a humid climate leaving a vent open is probably just trading one problem for another. Cold shouldn't be much of an issue.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, don't store your bike in direct sunlight either. This is true of any storage method. The paint and/or anodization can fade over time which is purely aesthetic, but once again rubber and plastic parts (leather as well) are susceptible to degradation from sunlight. Hang curtains/towels/whatever in the windows of the trailer so that they absorb the harmful rays instead of your nice bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T05:47:53.277" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2012-02-10T06:00:45.083" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;They squeal because water acts as a mild lubricant. That's why things are &quot;slippery when wet&quot; ;)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The water makes it harder for the pads to grab onto the rotors. They'll grab for a small fraction of a second and then let go again, and they do this really fast. Imagine the squeaky sound that a your finger makes when your run it over a smooth wet surface, or the sound your shoes make on a tile floor when you just came in out of the rain. Same sort of thing, only constant.&#xA;With bike brakes and disc brakes especially, the braking surface (the rotors for disc brakes, the rim for rim brakes) will find a harmonic resonance and thus the really loud tonal squeal.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All brakes have the potential to squeal, especially when wet. I wouldn't worry much about it unless you find that your braking power is being significantly reduced. In such a case, try some different compound pads. Metallic pads are generally considered to be superior in adverse conditions but they're also loud as hell in the rain/mud. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Everything is a trade-off, don't ya know? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T06:00:45.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2012-02-10T06:15:57.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty objective but I'll give you my opinion and my reasons.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I prefer hitch mount racks for a variety of reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hitch racks sit in the slipstream of your car and thus you get better gas mileage than a roof rack. Roof racks take a noticeable hit on MPG even when there's no bike mounted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's harder to forget that you have a hitch rack attached to your car than it is to forget that you have a roof rack. I have seen many a roof-rack/car/bike combos get royally messed up as a result of absent-mindedness. You can typically see your hitch rack in your rear view when backing up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a hitch on your car, hitch racks are typically cheaper than roof mount equivalents. If you need a hitch installed, do it yourself (it's not that hard) and the prices will be about even&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hitch racks come off of your car easily and can be shared with other vehicles that have a hitch assuming the receiver size is compatible/an adapter is available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hitch racks are more secure than trunk racks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hitch racks dont goober up your paint like a roof rack can and like a trunk mount almost certainly will&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's easier to get bikes on/off a hitch rack than an equivalent roof rack, especially if you're short or your car is tall or both.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can fit in the garage, and more importantly, drive through the drivethru with a hitch rack. Greasy food is important post-ride and your legs are too tired to walk inside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T19:55:19.193" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T19:55:19.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7997" CreationDate="2012-02-10T06:25:41.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most modern, quality frames it is not necessary, unless you have a problem in which case it might be worth a try. Sometimes it's just a matter of getting down to bare metal, sometimes the tolerances are indeed a little off and the surfaces of the top and bottom of the headtube aren't perfectly parallel. There's less danger in facing a headtube than there is in facing a bottom bracket, as a headtube can be most any height- the same can't be said for bottom bracket shell width. You should read the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7753/why-dont-frame-manufacturers-ream-face-their-frames&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for related information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T06:25:41.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7636" CreationDate="2012-02-10T11:28:00.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can it be just a case of cables stretching a bit after they adjusted them, so the gears are constantly in a half-shifted state? Noisy gears would indicate that I think, especially taking into account that the bike had been ridden only occasionally so the chain/cassette are unlikely to be worn and the gears worked fine after adjustment. The tendency to auto-shift from the largest cog to the second-largest also indicates that the cable is too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly tightening the cable using the nut near the shifter may fix the problem I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3427" LastEditorUserId="3427" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T11:33:29.150" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T11:33:29.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-10T13:57:39.593" Score="17" ViewCount="1858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm basically a year-round cyclist in Toronto, Canada. The popularity of bicycling as a form of transportation and commuting here has been growing over the past few years, and I'm generally happy people doing things to encourage the practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on my travels I often see cyclists blowing through red lights, at both minor and major intersections. I also see cyclists blowing past the open doors of the streetcars/trams that we have in Toronto: by law vehicles (which bicycles are) must stop 3m/10' behind them. I mention this as I have a friend to got hit by a bike when getting of a tram and ended up with a broken arm, and often see close calls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I don't see the point in breaking the rules, as the light is going to change in 30 seconds anyway (I usually end up catching up with these folks a few blocks down the road). One of my concerns is that by acting this way they &quot;ruin&quot; the reputation of more reasonable cyclists, and give the activity a bad name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also the folks who ride the wrong way one one-way streets, even though there's another street going that direction a few tens of metres down the road (the blocks are fairly close together in the urban parts of Toronto--basically a grid). These may seem like small things, but it gives a certain perception of cyclists that is not entirely positive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an effective strategy for convincing these folks to obey the rules? Is it worth approaching them and talking to them at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is assuming that they're reasonable people, i.e., people who listen to reason and logic.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3443" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T07:33:06.140" Title="How to convince fellow cyclists to follow the rules, like stopping at red lights?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8041" CreationDate="2012-02-10T14:07:51.603" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are generally two tactics for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Education and enforcement. Both of these are pretty lacking in Toronto. Even if they ran an ad saying &quot;don't ride on the sidewalk&quot; every once in a while in some of the local papers, it would have an effect. They do have two or three blitzes per year, but these aren't overly helpful either. They make people feel like they're being targeted and not necessarily being treated justly. An emphasis on education for children might be most beneficial. Some areas have cycling education including in their public school programs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change infrastructure to match the needs of cyclists. Things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_boulevard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Boulevards&lt;/a&gt; or &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_wave&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Green Wave&lt;/a&gt;&quot; help to obviate bad behaviour. As Neil points out below, there are generally local organizations that try to help out with this. In Toronto, your best bet is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeunion.to/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toronto Cyclists' Union&lt;/a&gt;, or join one of their &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeunion.to/wards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ward advocacy teams&lt;/a&gt;. You might also think of joining one of the local bike coops like &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikepirates.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Pirates&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesauce.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Sauce&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2012-03-16T07:33:06.140" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T07:33:06.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1449" CreationDate="2012-02-10T14:28:28.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will be a bit of a non answer as the question somewhat leads down the wrong path. The short summary is that with efficient training and a few seasons under your belt, you can be a successful cat 3 racer on 5-7 hours per week. Once you get above that level, you are entering into a completely different game and while more time will be needed, it will be highly dependent on your personal goals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotally regarding time trials, I'm a Cat 3 racer with a couple of wins and I have never done a 40km/h time trial for a flat 15km race, let alone a 40km race. I race with a lot of guys who could do a 40km/h TT without aero equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time trial performance is at best a minor indicator of success in the amateur levels. It indicates potential, but little else. It really only helps in time trials, races with substantial climbing and some very specific situations in mass start road races. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a fitness standpoint, racing success is more about repeated high speed surges that you need to recover from. From a mental standpoint, you need to be able to conserve your energy as much as possible in a race until it's time to use all that energy. Knowing when that time comes is also a bit of a challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T14:28:28.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8041" CreationDate="2012-02-10T17:25:44.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Whoah, fellow, we're gonna have a hard time acting like that!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Said out loud, close to the person, like greeting a long awaited friend, slightly ironic smiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal reaction to preachy requests is stubborn denial and even hostility, because the person know she has some guilt, and has been &quot;caught&quot; by the vigilante, creating a sort of upmanship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you greet her like you're in the same boat, either with tone (&quot;my old fellow&quot;) and with sentence content (&quot;WE are gonna...&quot;), perhaps he consider moving to the white side of the force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, we can only suggest, not demand, good behaviour from others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I try to use this approach on our Critical Mass rides in Porto Alegre, Brazil. It seems to work, or at least doesn't create antipathy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T17:25:44.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4765" CreationDate="2012-02-10T19:06:34.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had this problem on my town bike. Its &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclinginparis.blogspot.com/2011/08/my-swiss-bike.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my old swiss bike&lt;/a&gt; and its been suffering a lot of small problems recently due to cycling in -10 degree temperatures. The most recent was the chain constantly falling off every time I stopped pedalling or back pedalled. So to successfully stop I was having to pull the brakes while still gently pedalling until I stopped, or just put the chain back on every time I free wheeled or stopped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main cause of this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclinginparis.blogspot.com/2012/02/woeful-winter-weather.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycling here in the snow&lt;/a&gt; in Zurich city. The snow itself is not great for the bike but apparently the generous amounts of salt they put on the roads was the real cause of the trouble. I managed to fix the problem by just turning the bike upside down getting an old tooth brush and light bike oil and just brushing the gears and oiling the mechanisms until it started running smoothly, making sure I was pushing the pedals in the reverse direction a lot and starting and stopping quickly. It seems to  be working fine now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the tips everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3449" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T00:23:42.113" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T00:23:42.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2012-02-10T19:07:30.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, 25 miles is long and will take at least 1.5 hours each way for an average rider if it's flat, longer with hills. The longest bike commute I've done is a flat, 12 mile route and that took 45 minutes each way on a road bike with dropped handlebars and smooth tires, when I was a 30 year old in reasonably good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider the following possible ways to reduce the time investment so that you'll actually do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider using rail or bus if a route is available that covers&#xA;over half the distance, and that allows taking bikes. Then you might&#xA;be able to bike every day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider getting an electric bike. I just got one this year due&#xA;to injury/aging. I'm averaging 14mph on the uphill ride home and&#xA;around 18mph on the downhill ride to work. Some models go faster&#xA;than this but cost more. If you choose to commute by electric bike&#xA;daily, the expense of the bike quickly pays for itself in lower auto&#xA;costs, as the electricity cost for the bike is just pennies per day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you really think you have the time, motivations, and athleticism&#xA;to do 50 miles of riding regularly without an electric bike, then&#xA;you should follow the suggestions provided by other answers: You'll&#xA;be far better off with an aggressive road bike with drop bars,&#xA;thin/slick tires, wide range of gearing (if you have steep hills to&#xA;contend with), etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to bike commuting is to make it easy on yourself. If it's a Herculean effort, it won't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3448" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T19:07:30.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2012-02-10T22:01:44.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the past few months, I've been using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002CQTYDY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkon Bicycle Mount for iPhone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very happy with it for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inexpensive (around $13)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very sturdy hard plastic attaches to handle bar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Designed to fit different handle bar widths (tighten screws)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can view phone at any angle thanks to Ball and Socket design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two part design means I can reuse the handle portion of old Arkon Mounts - takes a minute or two to loosen the knob holding the iPhone piece, pull it out, attach to other bike, and tighten the knob. HOWEVER, the downside is that the two pieces don't have a locking mechanism. In an accident (or maybe even if you hit a nasty pothole), the two pieces may come apart, causing the iPhone to go flying along with the piece it's attached to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The iPhone portion is specifically made to fit the iPhone 4 or 4s, so it is a snug fit and is easy to insert and remove&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said - you won't be able to use this model if your handlebar is completely curved. You need at least a 1.25 inch portion of the handlebar that is straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used this for GPS (Runkeeper), for glancing at notifications, and occasionally for taking a phone call. Busy roads are too noisy for phone calls but on quiet suburban roads I have no problem on speaker phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to get something specific to the iPhone 4/4s such as this model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Arkon also makes universal mounts or mounts which work for many models but the model I had like that for my Blackberry a couple years ago required fiddling to get working properly - I mounted extra bike helmet padding to make it more snug)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3448" LastEditorUserId="3448" LastEditDate="2012-07-20T16:01:54.420" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T16:01:54.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8051" CreationDate="2012-02-10T23:52:41.847" Score="0" ViewCount="1051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about ready to replace my 20 year old Nishiki with a brand new Cannondale Synapse Alloy 6. I will be getting a bike computer of some sort. I would really like a GPS unit made for biking, or perhaps general outdoor use. I'm interested in comments from people who have used GPS units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T19:53:18.430" Title="Bicycle GPS Devices" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2012-02-11T00:27:13.300" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cyclocross bike which can accomodate fenders and a rack could be an option. I personally use an aluminum framed Cannondale CAADX Tiagra on my 17 mile (one way) commute and I like its versatility. It is relatively light (21 lbs) and has eyelets to accommodate fenders and a rack. It can also be fitted with a variety of tires ranging from slicks to studded. The XC frame makes the bike more maneuverable (can be useful in negotiating traffic) than a touring bicycle. Pic of the commuter below: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBeAA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this bike 2 or 3 times a week to commute downtown. It is almost as fast as my road bike on uneven roads. The wider tires (that can run at lower pressure) can soak up bumps better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T00:27:13.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8049" CreationDate="2012-02-11T00:45:15.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won't ever go back to not riding with a non GPS bike computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used the Garmin Edge 500 for almost a year and have used a Garmin wrist watch to record before that. Having the computer on the stem is much better than my wrist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used a bike GPS for navigation, just as a bike computer to show speed, distance, cadence, HR and power (ANT+ from my Power Meter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love analyzing my ride after, looking at the map, seeing where I struggled and where I really hit it hard. I think this is the best part of a GPS bike computer as it will 'record' your whole ride. You can upload a map to your Facebook, see how much elevation you rode, compare rides with friends who rode that same route before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The software (Training Center) that comes with the Garmin devices is not all that great but there are many alternatives, such as Garmin's online equivalent (Garmin Connect). I use Strava.com almost exclusively now, but have used TrainingPeaks.com as well as downloaded software on my computer called SportTracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the Garmin Edge 500 is a great value right in the middle of their offerings, you can go a bit cheaper (into low $100's for the Edge 200) or full color with maps (Edge 800). I have never run the extra speed/cadence sensor, just relying on the GPS for speed/distance, my riding buddies do like their speed/cadence sensors, as you can then use it on your trainer in the garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T00:45:15.820" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8041" CreationDate="2012-02-11T01:38:03.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you become involved and participate with cycling advocacy organizations in your city. These types of organizations often offer workshops and classes focusing on safety, traffic laws, cycling skills, etc. Maybe you could teach a class/workshop or offer support in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're out riding, it's usually counter-productive to correct other cyclists that you come across. Most likely they'll just get pissed off at you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in one of the U.S. top cycling cities. Even here, everything you describe is common. Yep, the person wearing black on a dark rainy night, with no lights, and running every stop sign.... and yes, I do want to yell at them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it worth approaching them and talking to them at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, no. Mainly because you could spend your entire ride/commute correcting the masses. However, in certain situations you'll be able to offer good advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T02:02:14.320" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T02:02:14.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8066" CreationDate="2012-02-11T07:26:10.410" Score="1" ViewCount="1870" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shifter cable broke on the way home from work. The break was inside of the dual lever assembly. I was able to fish out the cable end. But, with a new cable, I am not able to get the shifter to work properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on dis-assembly and re-assembly of Shimano dual levers? Specifically, &#xA;ST-6600. I found the techdocs on the Shimano site, but rather obtuse. Tips appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T10:27:26.610" Title="Shimano dual lever Ultegra ST-6600" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8049" CreationDate="2012-02-11T10:47:19.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a waterproof case/mount for my Android phone and I think it's awesome. There are a stack of apps in both the Android market and the iTunes store that track everything using GPS and let you connect to monitoring devices using Blutooth. Only issue is it eats the battery like there is no tomorrow to use the GPS I bought a bigger battery and I can get 3-4 hours of cycling as well having the phone to use all day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's not what you asked but it's an alternative option which is cheaper if you already have a smart phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T10:47:19.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2012-02-11T10:51:02.153" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this one from ultimate addons it's perfect for my needs and waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/ULTIMATEADDONS-Bicycle-Motorbike-Resistant-iPhone/dp/B004BAVJLO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.co.uk/ULTIMATEADDONS-Bicycle-Motorbike-Resistant-iPhone/dp/B004BAVJLO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T10:51:02.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8006" CreationDate="2012-02-11T10:54:39.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pack bananas as my cycling food of choice. That said I'm unfit as anything and I'm not sure that 25 to 50 miles is that far even for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have water or an electrolyte drink and you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T10:54:39.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8061" CreationDate="2012-02-11T13:38:27.097" Score="12" ViewCount="41803" Body="&lt;p&gt;My old city bike is getting worn out and I'm considering getting a new and better bike. I will use it for my daily commute (paved road - very uneven in places) and the occasional trip outside the city on unpaved roads. I have decided that a cross-road bicycle/29'er is what I'm looking for. I have created a check list with a few points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large wheels (29'er/cross-road)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good brakes (hydraulic disc brakes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front suspension with lockout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remote lockout of the suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the price/quality level I'm considering it seems that remote lockout is a very special feature. So far I've found a single model with remote lockout (the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/dual_sport/ds_series/8_5_ds/#&quot;&gt;Trek 8.5 DS&lt;/a&gt;) but I'm still undecided if I want better brakes and suspension than this model offers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had a bicycle with front suspension before but to me it seems like a no brainer to get remote lockout. I expect to have the suspension locked on my daily commute, but I know several places on my route where I would think having an unlocked suspension would be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my best alternative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep looking for a bike that satisfy my needs including having a remote lockout? Being unsuccesful doing this made me come here for advice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for a bike that satisfy my needs with the possibility of having a remote lockout mounted aftermarket? I don't know if this is possible without a significant cost increase which detracts from this solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forget about the remote lockout and just keep it locked for my daily commute just as I do today where I have no suspension at all?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3451" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T17:06:49.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T12:06:36.130" Title="Is front suspension remote lockout worth it?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8041" CreationDate="2012-02-11T13:41:44.447" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The people who ignore the rules of traffic fall into two categories: Those that put reason above the law, and those that just don't care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first group can be reached by appealing to their common sense. I belong to the first group, I regularly run certain red lights (the ones I know, where I can &lt;em&gt;see&lt;/em&gt; for myself that there is no danger), but I never drive past a stopped train. If you want to tell me something is dangerous, do so right away - I'll listen to reason when voiced in a reasonable tone. Do not refer to law or customs, because most people do &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; the law and chose to ignore it because it makes no sense to them in the situation. Don't know about Toronto, but where I live (Würzburg, Germany), the majority of red lights are necessary only during the morning peak hour and can be safely treated as a yield sign, and most &quot;one-way&quot; streets are broad enough for a cyclist and a car to safely pass each other. However, when there is real danger, simply telling me about the danger is a good way to bring the message across:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Please be careful, passing stopped trams is dangerous, I know some people whose arms were broken this way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second group, those who don't care, will never listen anyway. Treat them like reasonable people and don't be disappointed if you get unreasonable answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2353" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T13:41:44.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8059" CreationDate="2012-02-11T14:12:30.743" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off many forks have a remote lock out as an add on. Fox and rock shox especially. If it has a lock out, a remote lock out is likely available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, a nice fork that is set up properly for your weight shouldn't need to be locked out all that often. I have had a variety of great fox and rock shox forks that i only lock on long, steep, grueling climbs where I am standing and pumping. This was more needed on a single speed. If you plan to sit and spin up a hill you dont need the lock out at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of the last 5 forks i have had, all had a lockout, but only one with the remote. While the remote is convenient, I have never found it difficult to reach down and lock out on the fork while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T14:12:30.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8059" CreationDate="2012-02-11T16:58:27.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With really good tires you might not need suspension at all. I put Marathon Plus tires on a hard-tail for commuting, and find that the heavier tire gives me confidence and suspension to ride harder than before over broken pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T16:58:27.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2012-02-11T18:46:08.307" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have cycled to Holland from London and to Ireland and am about to cycle again to Holland, through Belgium and into France. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree strongly with Frank. Conditioning is what it's all about. The only thing I would add is;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Going up hills on a SS - keep your breathing constant and powerful - work the lungs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Push hard into the climb and then stand when you have to and then do what I call the push ups motion, pulling upward on the handlebars into your body and working hard. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There will be some hills where you have no option (and it is quicker) to get off and walk) but if you repeat steps 1 and 2 for a couple of months with decent distance on a regular basis, then your body will pump you up the hardest of hills. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep hydrated throughout - and if doing long distances eat the right foods - full of carbs, like flapjacks and snickers bars! That and energy drinks have helped me push hard up hills for years. Simplicity is key (although I do not discredit anyone's more advanced knowledge of changing cogs etc - I would try that if I could afford to out of curiosity). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't think too much! Keep yourself in a calm state and concentrate on your rhythm and not on cyclists around you or motorists (at the same time obviously keeping them in mind for safety!). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck soldier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3454" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T18:46:08.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8059" CreationDate="2012-02-11T19:27:28.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A remote lockout might sound like a good idea in theory but in practice you will find it largely unnecessary for the type of bike you're considering getting. That's not to say that it wouldn't be nifty to have, but I think you'll find that you will use it so rarely that you might regret limiting your purchasing options based on that feature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remote lockouts are useful on mountain bikes because they allow you to quickly change between a more efficient platform for non technical flats and uphills and a more forgiving platform for downhills and technical sections without ever having to take your hands off the bars. That said, I know some mountain bikers with remote lockouts that use them all the time and I know some that barely use them at all. The inconvenience of having to take your hands off the bars to twist the knob on the crown typically isn't that significant. Many mountain bikers find remote lockouts totally unnecessary. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a hybrid style bike (that is a very general term, btw) I personally would worry that it's just one more thing to go wrong. If I were you, even if I liked the idea of a remote lockout I would consider it a bonus feature but I would by no means base my purchase choice on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T19:27:28.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8049" CreationDate="2012-02-11T19:53:18.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got a small handful of choices for GPS enabled bike computers.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;In the world of bike GPS, Garmin has the market all but locked down. They currently have 3 models to choose from, all relatively new, with the most recent addition being the entry level 200 model. Your choice here is all finding a balance of budget and features. &lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;The 200 is inexpensive but is not ANT+ compatible which means you can't pair it with other ANT+ components such as heart rate monitors, power meters, or speed sensors (nice for the trainer or densely forested areas where GPS reception gets spotty) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 500 is the middle of the road product providing most of the features of the more expensive model along with ANT+ compatibility all for about $200 less than the top of the line 800. If you don't need turn by turn directions or the ability to look at a map whil you ride, this is probably the one to go with. It's the model I own and I'm very happy with it.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;The 800 is the most feature packed, and most expensive, bike computer that Garmin makes. All the bells and whistles including a color touch screen and the ability to upload map packs. Great choice if budget is not an concern.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a GPS enabled Android or iPhone, you may already have your GPS bike computer. There are a handful of apps available, most for free, that keep getting better with every version- most notably MapMyRide and Google Tracks. The biggest downside to using your phone as your GPS bike computer is that the battery life stinks. To a lesser degree, the software can sometimes be finicky and you may lose your ride information though as I mentioned the available apps get better with every update. Also, there's the matter of finding a quality bike mount case for your particlar phone (significantly more difficult for some Android phones than for iPhones). The other option is to put your phone in a ziplock sandwich bag and throw it in your jersey pocket, but then of course you can't see your live stats. These apps typically arent as feature rich as a dedicated computer and lack the sensors that mid-level and up GPS computers have (eg, barometer, ANT+ capability). You can get an ANT+ dongle for iphone - not sure about Android -  but then with the case you're looking at a price that's closing in on the cost of a dedicated computer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are some other choices that you can look into from companies like Suunto and Polar but most of these are wrist mount options and typically designed more with runners in mind. This may not be true anymore, but last time I checked polar still did not have ANT+ compatible products.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T19:53:18.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8054" CreationDate="2012-02-11T20:04:16.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tip would be don't disassemble the lever! Shimano unfortunately did not design their shifters to be serviceable.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shimano STI levers had a terrible habit of fraying the cable at the cable head until it eventually broke off. This was supposed to be remedied in the new generation of shifters but they still do it to a lesser degree. In other words, you're not alone in this problem. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unless you broke something while fishing the cable head out I'd say there's good chance that there's still a piece of cable floating around inside the shifter somewhere. My suggestion would be to undo the brake cable so you can pull the lever further back and get a powerful flashlight to look around inside the shifter with. Actuate the shifter and see if you see anything amiss. The whole thing would be easier if you take the shifter completely off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T20:04:16.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8068" CreationDate="2012-02-11T23:28:03.730" Score="2" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not interested in a specific product recommendation in answer to this question (like the existing iPhone question), but rather the key attributes to consider when buying a smartphone mount. Please be detailed and specific when describing each attribute and the pros and cons of different choices. Two example attributes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount held by twist ties or screws?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the mount universal or model specific?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each attribute please indicate whether there are trade-offs between choices or whether you always want to go with one choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3448" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-12T05:35:55.560" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T03:23:38.740" Title="What should I look for when buying a smartphone handlebar mount?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;iphone&gt;&lt;smartphone-mount&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2012-02-12T05:35:55.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have owned 2 different smartphone mounts (Blackberry, iPhone). Before getting a mount, determine if you have a straight section of your handlebar that's at least an inch long, preferably 1.3 inches or more. Mounts with rigid plastic secured by screws will require that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key attributes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Favor rigid molded plastic mounts secured by screws over the kinds secured by twist ties, as screws are more likely to keep the mount from slipping than twist ties.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some mounts are made for a specific phone model, some made for a&#xA;family of phone models, and some are universal. My personal&#xA;experience has been that the universal or family types require&#xA;fiddling to get working right, such as inserting extra padding in&#xA;order to better secure the phone. Specific phone&#xA;model types typically require less fuss to hold the phone securely in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many models are adjustable thanks to a ball and socket. This is a&#xA;good feature so that you can tilt the phone to face exactly the&#xA;direction you want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider whether you want a two part model that has a handle bar mount portion and a&#xA;specific phone portion. This allows you to have mounts on multiple&#xA;bikes so you can switch the phone specific version between bikes.&#xA;That can allow you to use old mounts when you switch phones and/or&#xA;save money from not having to buy full two part kits. However, if you ride on very bumpy roads or off road, you need to be sure that the two parts lock together, as the smartphone portion may detach and fall when subjected to severe vibration (there are specific complaints about this with Arkon's two piece system).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider whether you'll be using your smartphone in rainy or very wet&#xA;conditions. If so, you'll need to be certain it's waterproof, yet&#xA;with a thin enough covering film so that the touchscreen still works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3448" LastEditorUserId="3448" LastEditDate="2012-02-13T03:23:38.740" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T03:23:38.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8070" CreationDate="2012-02-12T13:42:27.567" Score="2" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding an early 90's Italian steel timetrialer (D'accordi TT0.9) for a few months, front tire has a slow leak that needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I can't get the bead totally over the rim.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the front wheel, a Campi (it says Lambda Strada on it somewhere), the tire is a 700x23c DSI I have no idea how old it is, though it doesn't seem to have a massive amount of wear.  I'm a bit of a noob on the bike maintenance front (trying to correct this), so while I think I understand how to get a tire off a wheel, perhaps I'm going about it incorrectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I've used used a couple tire levers and gotten about 6 inches of tire over the rim, I'd post photos but I'm new so...), but cannot for the life of me get the lever to pick up the bead anywhere else on the wheel.  While I know from reading other things that other tires on these rims may well be easier to work with in the future, I'm currently faced with the more immediate problem. Does anyone have any advice for getting the rest of this tire off the wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Adding that, I can see the rubber tearing away around the bead a bit I try in vain to get the lever under the bead. Do know if this is relevant to my problem, but it is a bit worrying ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2636" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T10:58:05.533" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T10:58:05.533" Title="Trouble removing a(n old) 700x23c tire" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8069" CreationDate="2012-02-12T15:53:04.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about grabbing the tyre where it's started to come off with some pliers. Then put a foot on the wheel, and pull hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! I know this can be really frustrating, because I had a tyre that was tightly stuck before. If it really won't come off, buy a new tyre that looks more forgiving, and chop the old one off with some wire cutters or a knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to replace my too tight tyre even though I eventually did manage to get it off and back on because I considered that if I ever had a flat away from home and all my tools, there would be no way I could repair it, and I didn't want to risk being stranded a long way from home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T15:53:04.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8041" CreationDate="2012-02-12T19:10:35.697" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coming from Vienna, Austria where most of the people are known to be rather grumpy, I would recommend to avoid talking to people directly. I have made some rather bad experiences with this approach and very few successes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read a Book about Psychology named &quot;Die Kunst kein Egoist zu sein&quot; by Richard David Precht, and as I remember he states something interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Everyone tries to maintain a good self image.  So, in the moment&#xA;  someone decides to break a rule, that someone declares for himself&#xA;  that this rule does not apply for him in this situation. For example,&#xA;  when he runs a red light, he already made the decision to, and in the&#xA;  same moment made an excuse for his action, to have a clear conscience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in my Opinion, in the moment you speak to him, you break his peace of mind. I think he won't be to happy about it. He already made the decision, and in this moment you are in a bad position to talk to him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to convince folks to obey the rules, there should be &lt;strong&gt;better education for bicyclists&lt;/strong&gt; (handouts, information, courses) as well as &lt;strong&gt;better infrastructure&lt;/strong&gt; (like having crossings where you do not have to wait for one traffic light as a car but three traffic lights as a cyclist).  This can be reached if &lt;strong&gt;cyclists unite and advocate for this&lt;/strong&gt;. If some cyclists know the rules and follow them, other cyclists will do the same. So &lt;strong&gt;be a great example&lt;/strong&gt;! Our bicycle union in Austria has some flyers to give to cyclists, where a basic description of important rules is included. I only give these to people I know or people that look like it is their first day on a bike, but that also might be an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will always be some gung-ho cyclists, but at least for me I am lucky that this people do not steer a car with the same gung-ho attitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T08:31:50.393" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T08:31:50.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8076" CreationDate="2012-02-12T19:20:53.627" Score="14" ViewCount="5889" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had a flat and having problems finding the thing that pierced the tube in the tire. Normally I just run my fingers around in it, until I found it, but this time everything looks O.K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is though, if you do not find the object, another flat will happen soon ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the trick with searching for the puncture on the tire in the same space where the hole is on the tube. I even flipped the tire so that the pattern is inside, but nothing to be found. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a mountain bike tire, and the hole in the tube is very tiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-13T05:43:21.607" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T14:38:58.940" Title="Fixing a flat - how to find the piercing object?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8073" CreationDate="2012-02-12T19:27:12.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have run your finger round the inside and outside and you haven't found it in the tire, and you have also checked it isn't in the beading, then it most likely fell out at some point - either while you were cycling, or when you removed the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T19:27:12.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8073" CreationDate="2012-02-12T19:36:39.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another method for checking the inside of your tire is to use panty hose instead of your finger. Panty hose is very effective at snagging on things like thin bits of wire and small thorns. And also, you won't slice your finger on whatever it is that's stuck in your tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And like Rory said in another answer, if you can't find anything, it's probably not there any more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T19:36:39.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8073" CreationDate="2012-02-12T20:20:48.863" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The object that pierced the tire and tube may have been left behind or it might be embedded in the tire but hidden in the rubber. This can happen with small pieces of glass, wire, or thorns, especially in thicker treaded tires such as those found on a mountain bike. When the rubber of the tire is compressed against the ground the offending object will stick back out through the inside of the tire, re-puncturing the tube and then as that section of the tire loses contact with the ground the object conceals itself again. It's almost like a bee's stinger.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I would do is just slap another tube in the tire. If you have another flat in the same place then you might have something still stuck in the tire that isn't immediately obvious. If you know how the tire was oriented against the tube, inspect both the inside &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the outside of the tire around where you think the puncture occurred. Do it under bright light and look for small cuts in the tread. Use a pick or tweezers to dig around in any cuts you find to ensure that nothing is hiding in there. If you find something, great! Problem solved. If not it may be coincidence.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also an advocate of patching the inside of tires after anything more than a pinhole puncture. If you have a cut that is more than a millimeter or two, you probably want to boot the tire. Otherwise you've got a weak spot where debris is more likely to penetrate the tire and pop another tube. You can buy tire boots, which are expensive, or you can use the glue type (not glueless) tube patches. I've had great success with tube patches on the inside of tires, even with road tires and mtb tubeless setups. Keep in mind that this wont work on cuts bigger than a few millimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T20:20:48.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8069" CreationDate="2012-02-12T20:31:54.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel your pain! Some tire and rim combos are really, really tough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, make sure that you're working your way &lt;em&gt;around&lt;/em&gt; the tire. Starting at one end of the tire and then trying to pry at another point on the tire will never work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to get one tire lever under the bead and then insert the other one right next to it, and slide them around the tire til it pops off. A third tire lever may help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that as you work the lever under the bead, you pry it as far over towards the other side of the wheel as you can and for the 2nd/3rd levers, try to slide the lever forward under the bead before hooking it on a spoke (assuming your tire levers have a spoke hook). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want the tire lever to start to point through the spokes when you're prying at the bead, if possible, for tough tires. As long as you've got plastic tire levers you can go at this as hard as you cant without any real worry of hurting the rim of the wheel - the lever will break first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T10:56:20.330" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T10:56:20.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8073" CreationDate="2012-02-12T20:39:10.413" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't find anything, and you've been cycling off-road or up and down curbs, then it could be a pinch flat. They occur when you hit something and the tyre compresses so much that the inner tube gets squashed between the rim of your bike and the object you hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can cause a hole in the tyre. More often though, this kind of puncture looks like a small slit rather than a dot. And sometimes they're called snake-bite punctures because you can sometimes get two holes, one from the rim on each side of the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is what's happened, there won't be anything to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of puncture is pretty common when mountain biking - I've had my share :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I'd suggest, is try checking the outside of the tyre too. It could be something pointy that pressed through into the inner-tube, but then because of the elasticity of the tyre rubber, got pulled back out a bit. It could be sitting in the tread of your tyre and not be poking through, but it'll be waiting to push through again, the next time you roll over that bit of the tyre!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T20:39:10.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2012-02-12T20:54:41.423" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's because they haven't been invested in much so far by the big bike companies. But, I think they are coming, and will become more common place in the next few years. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/bikes-and-gear-features/big-squeeze-road-disc-brakes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Big Squeeze, Road Disc Brakes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/disc-brakes-the-future-for-all-bikes-32770/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Disc brakes: The future for all bikes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After cycling my mountain bike which has discs and then moving back onto my road bike, I find I miss the discs. On any future bike I get - road or otherwise - I will definitely be looking for discs. Even if they add a little bit of weight, I just trust them to stop me more reliably than I do with any other type of brake, and I think that is worth a bit of a weight penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="26813" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T17:07:30.253" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T17:07:30.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8082" CreationDate="2012-02-12T21:50:39.663" Score="5" ViewCount="7729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at a set of Organic Disc brake pads. The brake pads come with a steel back plate or as an aluminium back plate. Why would I choose one over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorUserId="3338" LastEditDate="2012-02-19T01:10:18.267" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T01:23:44.737" Title="Disc brake pads - steel vs aluminium back plate" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8073" CreationDate="2012-02-12T23:31:59.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other good answers, I'd recommend checking the rim and rim-strip as well. Tubes can &quot;twist&quot; inside the tire, and the puncture may not be lining up with the tube, but with something on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for burrs on the rim, places where the rim seam has shifted a bit to make a rough edge, thin spots on the rim strip, or the possibility that the rim strip was shifted to the side, exposing a bit of a spoke nipple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pinch flat is also a possibility, particularly if the tire was a bit on the low side. Pinch flats often have two tiny punctures side by side, called a &quot;snake bite&quot; puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't find anything, mount it back up and ride - the puncturing object may be long gone, and good riddance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3457" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T23:31:59.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8080" CreationDate="2012-02-12T23:59:25.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Tektro calipers use a magnet to retain and position the brake pad. The magnet is part of the caliper piston so the pad backing material would have to be steel.Most hydraulic brake pistons are aluminum to reduce weight and resist corrosion.If your pistons are aluminum I would use the aluminum pads due to the possible corrosion caused by the disimilar metals (steelpad against an aluminum piston).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T23:59:25.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8011" CreationDate="2012-02-13T00:08:32.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dura Ace 7800 rear derailleur has two different positions for the pinch bolt/clamp that holds the cable in place.  One of these positions will limit the derailleur's range, and make it incompatible with 10 speed systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you loosen the bolt, re-orient the clamp, and tighten again, it should work on your 10 speed system without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T00:08:32.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8073" CreationDate="2012-02-13T00:09:12.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to rule out a spoke or spoke nipple as the cause.Check the liner for any spots that look like they may have worn thin. With mass produced wheels a tool mark on the nipple may be the cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T00:09:12.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8101" CreationDate="2012-02-13T00:57:57.450" Score="3" ViewCount="5992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a bit of a problem installing my seatpost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 31.6mm carbon-wrapped aluminum seatpost which fit perfectly fine in my previous aluminum frame.  Unfortunately, that frame cracked, but I found the exact make, model, and size frame on eBay to replace it.  The only problem is that the seatpost doesn't fit into the seat tube very well.  It is a very tight fit, and I can only get it down 1 1/4&quot; before it gets really difficult, even with a bit of grease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top of the seat tube doesn't appear to be crimped, so I'm not sure what the problem is.  I'm a bit gun-shy since I've already broke a frame this year.  So, I'm not sure whether to force it down, use a rubber mallet, or buy a new seatpost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I determine if it's possible to fit this seatpost in this frame safely? Is it possible there's something else interfering with the installation, or will I need to buy a new seatpost?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3459" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-13T01:55:11.640" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T16:44:19.510" Title="Tight Seatpost Installation" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8032" CreationDate="2012-02-13T03:20:33.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest not sealing the trailer but leaving the vents open.A natural exchange of air will actually reduce condensation.Think in terms of an unheated crawl space in a home.If you close the trailer up on a warm humid day that humid air will form condensation the first time the inside of the trailer gets cold.Condensation will also occur if the trailer is cooled for several days and you open it to the weather on that first warm day.All that cold metal inside will not warm up as fast as the air.The warm and moister air will loose its water content as it comes in  contact with the colder metal, again think cold beer, warm day,wet bottle.So basically allow the humidity to fluctuate with the ambient temp via ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T03:20:33.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8073" CreationDate="2012-02-13T04:30:35.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck shining a flashlight onto the tire as I inspect it.  Little bits of debris that are nearly invisible under normal lighting become instantly visible under direct illumination.  This is particularly true if the culprit is glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T04:30:35.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2012-02-13T05:04:05.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely can use an XC bike for road-biking purposes especially if you swap the stock XC knobby tires with slicks meant for the road. The only area you might be at a disadvantage as Glenn has already pointed out is you might run out of gears if the group you are riding with hits speeds in excess of 60 kph which can happen on downhills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T05:04:05.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8085" CreationDate="2012-02-13T13:07:40.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never use a hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to check the inside of the frame, visual inspection most times FAIL, because the problem is caused by tiny bumps or misalignments that are not easily seen with naked eye and even felt with fingertips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend that you take another seatpost (an old one you can take/borrow on a local bike shop) and try to insert more aggressively. You should polish the seatpost first someway (steel wool, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You force it inside a bit, then take it out. Probably, there would be some marks on the seatpost surface, suggesting if there is some irregularity inside the frame. Most common are bending around the vertical cut around the clamping nut, or deformation caused by welding the tubes around that region too deep (to the point of almost melting the inside of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seatpost tube of the frame might be not-straight, which would be a manufacturing defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, you could polish/sand/grind inside the frame to make the seatpost go down easier, but since seatposts that don't go down so easy come out very hard afterwards, and your post has a carbon surface, taking the frame to the bike shop to check if it needs replacement or special service (with machining tools to improve surface quality and alignment) could be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T13:07:40.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-13T15:45:57.777" Score="8" ViewCount="15064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/Images/QBimages.aspx?itemid=21078&amp;amp;if=Quick1.jpg&quot;&gt;Cannondale Quick1 2010&lt;/a&gt;, with the seatpost made with aluminium carbon-wrapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the seatpost tends to slide downwards, even if I squeeze a lot the snap ring; if the ground is uneven the seatpost slips completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3463" LastEditorUserId="3463" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T18:17:19.100" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T01:32:26.323" Title="Problems with a slipping seatpost" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8090" CreationDate="2012-02-13T16:02:56.080" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your local bike shop should be able to sell you some carbon gripping compound, for example Finish Line Fiber Grip.  Other similar brands are available!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've no idea what the seatpost clamp is on your bike but I'm always suspicious of ones that are hand tightened.  I have 2 bikes with carbon seatposts &amp;amp; Ali frames, I use Salsa clamps that require an allen key &amp;amp; I don't experience any slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3412" LastEditorUserId="3412" LastEditDate="2012-02-13T16:30:42.617" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T16:30:42.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8059" CreationDate="2012-02-13T16:07:28.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As ChrisW, unless you're riding ovr pave regularly you don't need suspension for a commuter IMO.  On One (UK &amp;amp; EU) sell 29&quot; compatible carbon rigid forks that will improve ride quality over steel / ali forks.  Bontrager (I thknk) sell aftermarket 29&quot; forks too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3412" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T16:07:28.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2012-02-13T17:39:01.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, doesn't anyone use their bike for everyday transportation? When I leave work, and go to the grocery, come home with a basket full of food, without a kickstand I have to juggle the bike while I unload its contents so I can lay it down then pick up my stuff go and unlock my door, bring in groceries, go back out and get my bike that I have left laying in the front...... All the while, I am making myself a target for anyone who may have ill intentions. ( I had two guys try to mug me in front of my house before) I am not being paranoid, this is a usability issue for all practical purposes. I of course, do not have a kickstand on my road bike. But my &quot;urban&quot; bike, it is a necessity for me. I am currently having a bear of a time finding a new urban bike that is functional to my needs, AND that has a performance feel to it. I found a great one, Cannondale Quick 1, but now i find I cant get it because it has carbon fiber seat stays, and no mounting bracket at the base of the frame above where the cranks are (the normal place).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would think, as more and more people want to use bicycles as their primary mode of transportation (I do have a car, I just don't want to use it!) that bicycle companies would start working towards more function via lightweight easy to install kickstands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;happy winds to all&#xA;Katrina&#xA;ps while we are at it - how bout a step thru frame with great components too? so you don't have to use a front basket as the top tube causes you to have to lean bike over towards you to get your leg over a basket in the back.... contents on ground again.... lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3464" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T17:39:01.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2012-02-13T19:22:24.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The above comments and answers are all really spot on. I just wanted to add that if you plan any group rides or get into more competitive riding, the CX bike will be noticeably slower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rode in a good number of rides, and trained for a century on a CX. But after 50 miles of trying hard to keep up, i noticed how much more fatigued i would be compared to my friends and those in the group. I later picked up a nice full ultegra carbon road bike, and picked up 2- 3 mph, with less effort over a 50 mile average. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T19:22:24.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7821" CreationDate="2012-02-13T20:58:52.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Joe Friel (author of &lt;em&gt;The Cyclist's Training Bible&lt;/em&gt; has an short article on riding posture &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2007/09/road-bike-posture.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;available on his blog&lt;/a&gt;.  A lot of back problems start with the hip position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you say your bike fits you based upon a single dimension, but there are multiple dimensions to fit.  Your back may be hurting because you are reaching too far, and thus your back has to bridge a longer gap.  Putting a different sized stem on your bike could fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, no matter how well your bike fits, ultimately, it will take some muscle engagement to support your cycling posture.  Abdominal exercises go a long way towards alleviating back pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T20:58:52.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7926" CreationDate="2012-02-13T21:32:31.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar living situation to yours, and I've had good luck cleaning my bike off with the brush attachment of a vacuum cleaner.  I just bring my bike inside, and wait for the mud to dry.  Then I take the hose, and brush off as much of it as I can.  From that point, when I want to make it cleaner, I can use a rag, and some mild cleaning solution to touch up on the rest.  Obviously the drivetrain needs separate attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should avoid &quot;jet washing&quot; your bike.  Pressurized water can easily find its way into bearings (usually bringing dirt with it), and ruin your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T21:32:31.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8090" CreationDate="2012-02-13T23:58:24.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used carbon frames or components, but I've had similar issues with aluminum posts in aluminum mountain bike frames. In all cases the clamp was a hand tightened quick release type. I also helped friends with this issue, some of them had carbon frames or seat posts. Possible causes and correction applied where as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp is not providing enough clamping force. Adjust the clamp. Almost always this kind of clamp has some quick release lever in one side, and a corresponding bolt or nut in the opposite side, tighten it a little bit at a time until problem disappears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seatpost or inside the seat tube is dirty or oily. Debris, sand, mud, oil or even water between seat tube and seat post will create this kind of problem, also accelerating wear of both even when no apparent slippage occurs. Clean both and make sure they are reasonably dry before putting them back together. How does all the stuff get in there? mainly the rear wheel trows it, it sticks to the seatpost and then, during cleanup it runs down into the seat tube. Some frames are more prone than others to collect dust. Shall this be the case, there are commercially available neoprene or rubber protections that seal the clamp area, but on the cheap you can use scraps from old inner tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quick release lever is producing too much friction: due to dirt and/or damage or wear, the quick release may be developing too much friction, giving the false feel of tightening, but the force you excerpt is being wasted. Inspect the clamp and be sure it is not dirty or deformed, specially around the quick release pivot. Friction surfaces of the quick release and their counterparts shall be clean, smooth and dent free. Some clamps have a plastic, teflon or steel &quot;cushion&quot; that help these friction surfaces slide. This must be well shaped and clean. The friction surface of the quick release lever can be lubed with oil or light grease. That also helps reducing the force required to securely tighten the seat post. Dents and small deformations can be sanded down and polished with very fine grit sand paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is dirt caught between the clamp and the neck of the seat tube: Dirt or other materials caught in there can also prevent clamp force to properly tighten the seat tube. Clean it, the the inside of the clamp and remove any stickers or loose paint. (Special attention with repainted frames here) The inner surface of the clamp can also be lubed and it helps, but very little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp is misaligned: The seat tube has a cut part in the neck, this should be aligned with the clamp's gap (Unless some weird manufacturer says otherwise). Check alignment, special attention if the clamp is an aftermarket one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wear: If your problem has been happening for a long time, chances are the seatpost or even the inner seat tube is worn out, thus having too much &quot;play&quot; between them and being too much flex for the seat tube to take up, so tightening it is not effective. To be sure seat post and seat tube must be measured with a precision caliper. Shall wear be the problem, hopefully changing your seat post is enough to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final considerations:&#xA;Never use excessive force to tighten the seatpost (or any other component), specially with carbon components, you'll cause too much stress and reduce the time to failure of the component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T23:58:24.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2012-02-13T23:59:56.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good rim brakes perform just as good as a light disc brake would. I love disc brakes on my mountain bike, And up till last year, I hated rim road brakes. But then i upgraded my road bike and the new one has Ultegra brakes. Wow they stop amazing. Flying down 2000ft descents over 5 miles with no issues at 45mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T23:59:56.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8100" CreationDate="2012-02-14T02:38:05.197" Score="2" ViewCount="4052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using WH-550 from Shimano, can I replace my steel bearing balls with ceramic bearing balls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T04:40:33.257" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T04:40:33.257" Title="Can I replace steel bearings with ceramic bearings?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;ceramic&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8099" CreationDate="2012-02-14T04:33:07.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. You just need to get the right size of loose ceramic ball bearings as that's what shimano wheels use. They are available from various vendors, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vcrcbike.com/category_s/59.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like here for instance.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't ask this, but I'll answer it for you anyway: would I recommend replacing the bearings on a pair of WH-R550's with ceramic bearings? &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-222894.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;neither would many others.&lt;/a&gt; Ceramic bearings are expensive and can end up costing nearly as much as your particular wheelset. There are better places on your bike to spend that money and get more bang for your buck. A lighter, more aerodynamic wheelset would be a great place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T04:33:07.383" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8085" CreationDate="2012-02-14T04:39:24.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they are the same make, model, and year frame and the proper sized seatpost will not insert into the frame more than 1-1/4&quot; &lt;strong&gt; then something is wrong.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;This one's hard to diagnose over the internet so I suggest you head down to a reputable bike shop and let them have a look at the frame before something gets mucked up irreparably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T04:39:24.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8111" CreationDate="2012-02-14T06:56:18.457" Score="1" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw at ebay, 10 speed cassette compatible with shimano, it's very light 103 grams, but the material is alloy with ceramic coated, it says, the cassette can be used up to 3000K, is it true? or may be more than 3000K, because if it's 3000K the age for me is only about 3 months or less riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have any of you ever used one ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T16:01:17.380" Title="How is the quality of alloy sprocket 10 speed sprocket?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;ceramic&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8110" CreationDate="2012-02-14T08:08:21.213" Score="13" ViewCount="30519" Body="&lt;p&gt;Straight-pull spokes have been around for awhile on MTB wheels, but mainly just on very expensive wheelsets (Mavic Deemax for example).  Recently the better wheel component manufacturers have been getting in on this by selling straight-pull spokes and compatible hubs individually, and they are generally considerably more expensive than the 'normal' variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However in my many years of snapping spokes they have &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; snapped at the elbow (the 'weak' point straight-pulls are supposed to address), they &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; break in the centre - presumably because the double-butting process has moved the weak point there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this: Are straight-pull spokes worth it, or are they another expensive marketing gimick to solve a problem that doesn't exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T06:43:36.777" Title="Straight-pull spokes - worth it?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8109" CreationDate="2012-02-14T11:04:34.543" Score="14" ViewCount="9194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only just noticed that my bike dosen't seem to make a lot of noise when free wheeling, in fact it's pretty much silent. Is this down to the fact that I have been putting off a major clean?, is my bike damaged? or is my bike equipped with a silent freewheel that I didn't know existed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently riding a Scott Aspect 30 Mountain Bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3361" LastEditorUserId="3361" LastEditDate="2017-07-26T10:17:27.753" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T10:17:27.753" Title="Do silent freewheels exist?" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8104" CreationDate="2012-02-14T11:22:55.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It very much depends on the freewheel mechanism in the hub, some make a nice &quot;clickerty&quot; noise, others are more silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hub will be sealed and this should prevent dirt etc. getting into the mechanism.  If anything it is likely to get noisier with penetration by dirt &amp;amp; grit rather than quieter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the bike spec, my experience of Shimano hubs is they are quiet compared to other brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3412" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T11:22:55.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2012-02-14T11:44:13.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers specifically state not to use automotive brake cleaners.  They suggest rubbing alcohol.  I don't know why, perhaps it might loosen the adhesive bonding the friction material and the backing plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T04:12:42.703" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T04:12:42.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8104" CreationDate="2012-02-14T14:35:33.463" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer. Hub integrity can not really be judged by noise alone, but by feel. If you feel it slipping under load the hub could be damaged beyond repair. The quiet smooth feel, but working normally is just a good, sealed hub that the manufacturer built in a way that has smaller or less splines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full monty. &#xA;A free wheel hub consists of a few key elements. The splined hub body, springs and pawls. The spline is a series of ramped teeth. Slipping one direction, gripping the other. This allows the coasting. Fancy hubs may have more splines than cheaper ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pawls are little teeth that grip the spline, and are spring loaded to keep them engaged when the cassette body is spinning faster than the hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as a hub wears, its usually the splines or the pawls loosing their crisp shape, or the springs in the pawls no longer being strong enough to keep the pawl engaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T14:35:33.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8104" CreationDate="2012-02-14T15:24:35.380" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your hub has a normal freewheel, like described by Matt Adams (ratchet with pawls).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some models which have spring-loaded cylinders mounted around &quot;tilted&quot; teeth: when you spin it to one side, the cylinders slip. When you spin it to the other side, the cylinders are caught between opposite surfaces, and torque is transmitted by friction (there is no positive engagement between parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of backpedal-brake rear-hubs have this system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano had a Deore LX named &quot;Silent Clutch&quot; with this mechanism, but it was heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rKLO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I know at least one model (American Classic) which instead of the spring to load the pawls, have a rotary disc to engage and disengage the pawl, and a tiny hair-sized spring which act as the freewheel for this plate. It is a very silent and low-friction system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R9rot.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T23:54:35.960" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T23:54:35.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2012-02-14T15:51:42.980" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is debatable, but since you asked, here go my cents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wheel has three &quot;parts&quot;: rim, hub and spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spokes have two functions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sustain the vertical forces on the wheel (weight of the rider, landing, etc.);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmit torque while accelerating (rear wheel only) and braking;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any properly laced wheel will do it, but there are many ways to design the connection of the spokes to the hub, or to the rim. These manufacturers have chosen to make the spokes &quot;elbowless&quot;, which could result in less chance of failure, and could result in other side-benefits, like flangeless hubs, or fancier-looking wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd much rather use standard components only, since they are easily replacable and swappable. I sometimes damage some rim, then I can change the rim only, because the nipple-hole connection is standard. I also can change the hub if needed, because the flange-elbow connection is standard. In the other hand these fancy wheels are proprietary, and you have only a single source of spare parts, which tend to be VERY expensive and sometimes are not available on the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bottomline, my spokes tend to break at the elbow, rarely at the thread end. I don't use butted spokes, so that could make some difference. Recently, I had some breakages at the mid-length, but I suppose this is due to excessive weight per wheel (tandem) and sub-optimal quality spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final thought: I would only spend big in such a wheel if I have a very well-defined reason. These are made for racing, and for anyone who doesn't race (and isn't sponsored), I'm pretty sure the cost is too much for the benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T15:51:42.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8102" CreationDate="2012-02-14T16:01:17.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of small boutique-factories machining extra-weight-weenie parts that serve three purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provide some weight advantage to very high-end racers who reached the limit of their training levels. That could mean positions in a very high-level race;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Satisfy some folks (whose population is increasing) who don't mind throwing money out the window to have the most exotic and customized extra-high-tech bikes;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed the Weight Weenie Contest members with lots of ways to shave weight of bikes they don't necessarily ride (but most probably take a lot of pictures hanging from scales to post online).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(ok, that was somewhat a bitter answer, but I think this is not far from the truth)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, yes, this means 3 months of riding, then to the thrash can, for the cassette you mentioned. How can anyone afford that?!?!?!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T16:01:17.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8104" CreationDate="2012-02-14T16:43:15.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had the Shimano &quot;clutch hubs&quot; on some of our police patrol bikes.  Seem to work well, my bike is about 15 years old and it's been trouble free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T16:43:15.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-14T22:24:44.040" Score="6" ViewCount="5731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to do maintenance on my 1982 miyata 310 road bike myself.  What tools are necessary to take the entire bicycle apart, lube, and put it back together?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I have come up so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bicycle stand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hex wrench set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain breaker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3469" LastEditorUserId="3469" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T03:43:40.920" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T03:26:23.317" Title="What tools do I need to disassemble and re-assemble an 80's road bicycle" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8113" CreationDate="2012-02-14T23:37:27.770" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends to what level you want to disassemble. For general cleaning your list is a good start. As you dig deeper though you'll also need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To service/adjust drivetrain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various spanners and screwdrivers to adjust cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wire cutters if replacing cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To service wheels/hubs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15mm spanner to remove wheels (unless you have quick release hubs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain whip and a cassette tool to match your cassette to remove rear cassette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cone spanners to remove and replace the hub cones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke wrench (ensure you get a good one that fits your spoke nipples exactly, as it's very easy to damage the nipple)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To service cranks/pedals/bottom bracket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal spanner to remove the pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on the cranks you may need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cotterless.html&quot;&gt;crank puller&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To remove the bottom bracket you may need a special spanner/tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To service forks/stem/head tube&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's a threaded fork, varying sized spanners to undo the nuts on top of the fork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's threadless, your hex spanners will be okay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bearing cups - from the head tube there are specific tools to remove and then press them back on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Chef Flambe mentions it can be more economical to buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40997&quot;&gt;kit containing many of these tools&lt;/a&gt;. This will give you a head start and you can buy the specific tools you need for your bike, as well as upgrade to better quality for the tools you use frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T02:34:39.343" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T02:34:39.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8113" CreationDate="2012-02-15T02:41:06.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably should add a few spare parts/supplies to have around:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A spare tube or two&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tube repair kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare spokes and nipples (one length for front, two different lengths for rear, unless you have disk brakes in which case it's likely the other way around).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain lube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want get into rebuilding bearings, some bearing grease, a bottle of parts cleaner/solvent, and something like a loaf pan for washing parts in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray lube for brake/shift cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Anything else??)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T11:58:17.937" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T11:58:17.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8117" CreationDate="2012-02-15T03:02:49.650" Score="3" ViewCount="3666" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the cone spanner size for cone nut on Shimano WH-R550 Front wheel ?&#xA;Is it 17mm or 18mm ?&#xA;I tried with 16, it seems, need more, 1 or 2mm bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="3189" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T03:16:37.673" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T13:49:07.923" Title="What's the cone wrench size?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8116" CreationDate="2012-02-15T05:47:54.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;17mm/15mm is usual for Shimano cones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T05:47:54.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8116" CreationDate="2012-02-15T13:49:07.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I took a late look at some pictures of the wheel you mentioned (Shimano WH-R550). It looks quite different from the regular mtb shimano hubs, so please consider the following answer as applying to regular mountain-bike shimano hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience with shimano hubs, there are two parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The locknut, which face outwards and make contact with the fork/frame, is usually 17mm. Since you need to tighten it with the other side fixed, you can use a 17mm wrench at one side and a 18mm wrench at the other if you don't want to have two (big/expensive) 17mm wrenches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cones are just inside the locknuts and might be 13 or 14, or even different. Usually you need a dedicated cone wrench since normal wrenches are too thick to fit in the narrow fitting in the cone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some shimano models have a double-size cone, to allow use of two wrenches of different sizes, so it helps folks who have only one size of cone wrench (Shimano is rarely so considerate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I waited (and suffered) too much before buying my cone wrenches. If I knew how much a difference they make, I'd have bought them at the same time I bought the bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T13:49:07.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-16T01:12:04.170" Score="0" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;i dont want the quick release for single speed, i want to ditch the skewer for a solid axle to torque it down good for single speed...  my LBS mechanic said they couldnt do it but with sealed bearings in the hub that seems absurd, any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3475" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T09:35:02.393" Title="i have an se dirt jumper with 4 sealed bearings in the rear hub, can i convert it from QR to solid axle?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8113" CreationDate="2012-02-16T02:38:45.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the other things mentioned you will need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Big spanner / variable spanner for releasing the headset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grease&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T03:26:23.317" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T03:26:23.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8119" CreationDate="2012-02-16T08:26:04.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your LBS mechanic looked at it, and said it wouldn't work, why would any of us second guess a professional on a project which can't even look at? There are many reasons I can think of why doing so is a bad idea, even if it works technically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest reason I can think of for it not working technically is that an axle for a sealed bearing hub has large, machined areas designed to interface with the inside race of the bearing. A solid axle, unless specifically made for that hub, isn't going to be machined to fit the bearing race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, most axles for sealed bearing wheels are aluminum, which is fine when using a compression closure like the quick release, but which is a poor, and very likely unsafe, material for a threaded closure system like a single speed axle nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T08:26:04.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8119" CreationDate="2012-02-16T09:35:02.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't fit a solid axle, you could try a ratcheted quick release such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtswiss.com/getdoc/5b51301b-22fa-4b2e-9767-47e42f717244/TechnicalDrawing.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DT Swiss RWS system&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; and here's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtswiss.com/Products/Components/RWS.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;main page with a variety of sizes&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;You ratchet it tight and they claim 50% more clamping force than common quick release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're not cheap, but I have one on the front as I'm running disk brakes which generate a lot of downward force on the axle, so your clamp should be good. The rear I have a solid Alfine axle. I find they are worth the money though, they are a quality item, but maybe go for the metal handled ones if you want the most durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T09:35:02.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8125" CreationDate="2012-02-16T12:30:46.423" Score="1" ViewCount="12889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm seeking advice on how to install disc brakes on a bike that does not have rear disc brake mounts. The bike I have is the Trek 7.1 FX. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the Trek 7.1 FX have the mount for installing disc brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which disc brake option is better to go for, mechanical or hydraulic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which brands are reliable, or does Trek provides some custom kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3478" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T12:53:07.517" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T12:53:07.517" Title="Adding disc brake to a bike without rear disc brake mounts" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8124" CreationDate="2012-02-16T14:17:27.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like that bike includes the caliper mounts, and the wheels hubs do not have rotor mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Converting a bike like this to disc brakes would require custom frame work, a new fork and new wheels (or at least new hubs and a wheel build).  From a financial standpoint it makes a lot more sense to buy a bike already equipped with disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/4203/213&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; covers the pros and cons for different braking systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; I stand corrected on the issue of 'required frame work' as @cbamber85 mentions below, there is a product called &lt;a href=&quot;http://2btherapy.com/bikes/brake-therapy-conversion-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brake Therapy Conversion Kit&lt;/a&gt; available that will allow you to mount disc brakes on your rear triangle.  Looks like the cost is about $150 USD and you would still need new hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T14:47:38.633" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-16T14:39:00.527" Score="0" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been slowly changing a Devinci Milano I bought to be more like a touring bike than a hybrid. I've installed drop bars and sti shifters. Everything is working pretty well, except that I'd like to have a more road-oriented set of chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I plan to swap in a standard road 52 - 39 crankset. Is there any way I can tell if it will fit? I realize it will take me five minutes to check, just wondering if there's a better way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T22:04:44.023" Title="Is there a way to know what size of smallest chainring will be compatible with a given frame?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2139" CreationDate="2012-02-16T16:09:58.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I solved this problem.&lt;/strong&gt;   My pedals were designed with metal toe clips.  For safety reasons I removed the metal clip and replaced them with soft strap toe clips I found at REI.  However, I found it annoying that the new toe clips were always pointed downward.  It took me several seconds while starting my ride to get my foot into the left toe clip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that my pedals were weighted on the bottom side with two metal weights.  My goal was to add a weight to one of the bottom side weights of just the right weight to flip the pedal to normally sit with the toe clip on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This required some experimentation.  I found that a small test magnet would attach itself to the metal weight already on the pedal.  If your pedal doesn't have a part that will attract a magnet attach a fender washer.  I then used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/magcraft-nsn0802&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magcraft NSN0802 Rare Earth Magnets&lt;/a&gt; that I bought from Amazon.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[broken link removed]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These magnetic disks are far stronger than normal magnets.  I bought a 0.2 x 1.2 x 6 inch steel support from Home Depot.  I determined the approximate weight that I needed by attaching some small spring clips.  I needed about 1.5 ounces per pedal.  Using an accurate scale and some basic math, I determined the size of the steel support to cut off which was 1.4 inches.  I then attached my steel weight to the rare earth magnet.  I was able to fine tune the angle of the pedal by moving the steel weight higher or lower on one side of the pedal.  The weight needs to be attached below the center-line of the pedal on the side of the pedal which is pointed upward.  The lower the weight is attached the more affect if will have. (The weight is a moment arm: weight x distance from the center-line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the pedal shaft is well lubricated.  Spin the pedal and the toe clip should always come to rest with the toe clip up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then test ride the bicycle and the weights should stay put.  When you are happy with the pedal positions, I recommend attaching the weights permanently with J-B Weld (a steel reinforced epoxy) to both sides of the rare earth magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3480" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-10-08T03:14:01.563" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T03:14:01.563" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-02-16T16:09:58.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8126" CreationDate="2012-02-16T16:35:20.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Devinci Milano uses a standard 68mm English threaded bottom bracket shell.  This should be compatible with most road cranksets, so long as you replace the bottom bracket as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T16:35:20.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8126" CreationDate="2012-02-16T18:45:38.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends not only on chainring size, but also in bottom-bracket spindle length, which may vary according to preference/taste/availability, respecting two constraints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Far enough from the frame to avoid rubbing against the chainstay tube;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close enough to the frame to allow for the front deraileur to pull the chain over the big ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This constraints are fairly flexible. Your frame is a hybrid one with a OEM chainring size of 48/38/28, so most probably a 53 big ring (only 5 teeth difference) would fit without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, there is no reliable way to anticipate if it will fit or not other than actually trying, which is relatively easy with the help of the Local Bike Shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T22:04:44.023" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T22:04:44.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8135" CreationDate="2012-02-16T20:16:27.743" Score="3" ViewCount="1813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I first came across this when I was looking at the Surly LHT, but I started to see it everywhere. It seems to me they can just put on a longer fork or something, or is it more for the back wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T16:42:11.547" Title="Why does a bike frame have to be above 56 cm usually to fit 700c tires?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8133" CreationDate="2012-02-16T20:18:54.760" Score="6" ViewCount="39304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a few people do this where their saddle was angled down a bit. Why would someone do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T00:34:03.140" Title="What are the advantages of angling your saddle down?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8130" CreationDate="2012-02-16T21:50:30.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bike frame does not have to be above 56cm at all. In fact, the 56cm is a measure of only one aspect of the bike's geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends greatly on the bike. The Long Haul Trucker, for example, my only be sold in frames 56cm and above, but several other Surly bikes, such as the Cross-Check and the Pacer come in sizes as small as 42cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="907" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T21:50:30.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8131" CreationDate="2012-02-16T21:52:27.303" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, I don't know why one would do this. Especially men.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html#angle&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; has to say, and I tend to agree:&#xA;&quot;If the saddle is tilted down in front, the rider will tend to slide forward onto the narrower part of the saddle. Women who are riding on saddles that were designed for men frequently tilt their saddles down. This will relieve some of the discomfort from the saddle itself, but creates new problems: The downward slope of the saddle causes the rider to tend to slide forward, and this can only be counteracted by pressure on the hands. Thus, poorly-angled saddles often are the cause of wrist, shoulder and neck problems, due to carrying too much of the rider's weight on the hands.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zinncycles.com/book_and_dvd.php&quot;&gt;Lennard Zinn&lt;/a&gt; mentions that a &quot;very slight&quot; tilt in either direction may be optimal for some riders; but no more than ~2 degrees. Basically the same reasons that Sheldon Brown mentions. The downward forward tilt adds pressure on the arms, back, and shoulders due to sliding forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want your &quot;sit bones&quot; to be on the widest part of the saddle. If you slide forward, the pressure will shift from the sit bones to the perineum; and that's probably a bad thing. There are special cases for tilting the saddle nose downward; but for the general rider it's not necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T22:41:28.240" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T22:41:28.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8131" CreationDate="2012-02-16T22:19:36.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For time trialing, or other riding where the rider will be in a very aggressive position for extended periods of time, a slight tilt forward can relieve unnecessary pressure on the perineum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T22:19:36.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8130" CreationDate="2012-02-16T22:49:00.137" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real issue is in the top tube length.  Basically, for shorter riders you need to move the handlebars closer to the seat.  But then you have to deal with the wheel possibly colliding with the pedals (&quot;toe strike&quot;), changing the head angle or the fork's rake, which compromises the handling, and/or having a proportionally longer top tube than would otherwise be indicated by the seat tube length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rodriguez Cycles did an excellent multipart essay on choosing between 650c and 700c wheels for road bikes, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rodbikes.com/blog/?p=412&quot;&gt;illustrated Cliff notes they provide&lt;/a&gt; should prove illuminating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T23:37:40.057" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T23:37:40.057" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8041" CreationDate="2012-02-17T02:17:31.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience individual rider will never listen to you. They are going their way and you are going your way. The only luck you will have is in a group; especially if you are leading the ride. You tell everyone at the beginning that you are obeying traffic rules on the ride. People will eventually get used to it and it won't be an issue anymore. Then when they are riding alone they will realize how much easier they have it when they follow the rules, at least most of the time, and then they will get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T02:17:31.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-17T02:22:18.283" Score="7" ViewCount="3877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of buying a new car and I want to fit a rack on it for my bikes. Are there any issues that I need to be aware of for fitting a rack to a car, or rather are their any factors that would make it impossible to fit a rack to a car? That would be a deal breaker for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T19:56:30.647" Title="Buying a car with the bike rack in mind" Tags="&lt;transport-by-car&gt;&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8131" CreationDate="2012-02-17T10:13:22.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tilt the seat down slightly to make it much more comfortable for me to ride, When the seat is horizontal, I find I end up with pain from that narrow part of the seat pressing where it shouldn't. Tilting the seat down means that I am only in contact with the slightly wider part of the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I have my bars set up means there is no possibility of sliding forwards on the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While my bike is a road racer, with bars and seat set up accordingly, I use it for commuting - about 35 miles a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T10:13:22.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2012-02-17T11:50:30.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not be able to fit a roof rack unless the car type is designed to allow for rack fitting, but in general all car manufacturers state this. Either they have rails which allow for rack fitting, or they already have part of the rack inbuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, the drainage channels that many cars have down each side of the roof are often designed to take either manufacturer brand bars or some of the generic roof bars on the market. Look at the car manufacturer's website, or speak to the salesman. Often you can get the bars cheap or free if you take them as part of the package when you buy a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For racks that fit on the back, you may need to look at the documentation from the rack manufacturer - they will give lists of the vehicles their rack can fit to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T11:50:30.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8131" CreationDate="2012-02-17T12:03:14.643" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some saddles that in some bikes were best with a slight tilt down, otherwise they would crush my perineum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my current saddles (Brooks) is tilted nose-up, otherwise it is very uncomfortable because I feel thrown forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I think it depends on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rider's anatomical shape;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle shape (in case of a leather saddle, might change over time);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall position of the bike (if you put the saddle on different bikes, optimal tilt might vary;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cruise speed of the bike. If you pedal hard, tilt down might be fine. If you pedal slowly and upright, most probably tilt down would be very uncomfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T16:48:27.917" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T16:48:27.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2012-02-17T17:08:59.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two choices - many manufacturers have their own branded racks, in which case, as you're buying new, you might want to try to get the sales rep to throw in a set at no extra cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly a better thought is to have a target brand and model of rack in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I have a Thule set, which works by having two bars straddling the roof of the car, with the bike racks bridging between the bars. The bars attach to the car with model-specific 'feet' which are easily disengaged from the bars. So it is possible to use the same bars and racks (and boxes and so on) on different cars, just by removing the feet and replacing them with alternatives. (I've loaned my bars and racks to friends in this way.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need to make sure of here is that the model-specific options are available for your car - and the manufacturer's website should help with that. Indeed, the rep who sold me my most recent purchase was able to give me the Thule part number! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are practical reasons why a roof set up isn't going to work for a particular model (e.g. it's an open top) then there are alternatives around rear-mounted racks (although many of these are dependent on a tow hook). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T17:08:59.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-17T17:10:58.223" Score="1" ViewCount="7518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older fox Talas RLC fork. It rebounds under no weight fine, but even just sitting and pedaling it compresses fully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i pull up it will rebound, or get off it will rebound. But it seems to slowly sink when im on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lock out still works, and the PSI is at 90-100, and I weigh 185. So that seems to be within normal range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="3124" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T17:38:58.210" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T17:58:09.570" Title="Fox Talas RLC fork not rebounding, and compressing under no load" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8041" CreationDate="2012-02-17T17:15:40.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR - I've given up trying, just let them go. If they would pay attention to reason and logic, they wouldn't be doing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to lead by example, but if you're on the lookout for it, you'll see law breaking or minor infractions everywhere. If you're directly impacted by it, then I tend to advocate a quite militant reaction, but generally I just let them at it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if I'm a pedestrian, crossing on a signal that is red for the traffic and there's a bike obviously about to transgress, I will slow down and be longer in their way. I'll certainly get in the way if they're cycling on the pavement (sidewalk) and let them know that I'm doing it deliberately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've learned to see red traffic lights on my commute as a chance for a rest, so I'll probably just blow past the red light jumper soon enough. If they keep on getting in the way, I might have a word after the third or fourth light, but mostly there's enough to worry about with the traffic, that it's not a big thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T17:15:40.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2012-02-17T17:34:43.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I say visit yakima and thule websites, and use their tools to see what and how their racks work. Im sure you have a short lost of cars you are interested in. The great thing about yakima and thule is that its fairly easy to change cars in the future with a small mount change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had the same rails and crossbars on 4 cars and each car change is generally less than a $60 change in clips, and i usually ebay the old ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 door cars, and cars with built in factory rails also make it tough to fit some racks, or the cross bars end up too close and have stability issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T17:34:43.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8142" CreationDate="2012-02-17T19:12:30.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try to help, but I'm not sure about EVERY details of your fork, so let's see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RLC means (adjustable) Rebound, Compression and Lockout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it rebounds, there is still some preload on your fork, but if your weight is enough to make it go down, perhaps the preload is not enough. Since your fork is air-sprung, it would make me think of very low pressure on the air-spring compartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lockout works, so there is oil inside, which is the mechanism used by most lockout systems: entirely closing the compression oil valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said PSI is at 90-100, which in some models is too little pressure. I have an RST model which demands me to put 170 psi. In the other hand I had another (larger bore) suspension which was fine with 40 psi. I don't know if this pressure is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even so, perhaps your model has MORE THAN ONE schraeder valve, so one would be &quot;positive&quot; pressure, the other would be &quot;negative pressure&quot; (or &quot;low speed compression&quot;, or any other fancy name the factory creates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most interesting part is &quot;it seems to SLOWLY sink when I'm on the bike&quot;. See questions later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have this questions, which you could put on comments or re-edit your original question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have the manual, and what PRELOAD air pressure do they recommend for your weight?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do your model have more than one Schraeder valve? If yes, how are they named, and which one has the pressure you mentioned (where is it located)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While the suspension slowly sinks, this happens while it is working (absorbing bumps and rebounding back), or just statically applying your weight on the bike while stopped? If you pull it down half travel, does it come back bevore continuing to sink, or continues to sink from this half travel position?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T19:12:30.303" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2012-02-18T11:06:01.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also consider when purchasing a car, the size of your boot. Bike racks are great and I have used a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?q=bike%20boot%20rack&amp;amp;oei=7IM_T8TiPIev8QP1usGZCA&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=5108813773267194863&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=7YM_T-f-DMGq8QPHp4WPCA&amp;amp;ved=0CH4Q8gIwAw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;generic one that clips to the back of your boot&lt;/a&gt; door a number of times, but mainly only for longer journeys where the boot and or seat space is needed. Depending on the size/type of car and amount of people/bikes you are transporting most of the time you can get away with shoving the bike in the boot with the occasional quick release of your front wheel. (This saves time and effort when going on a ride.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have managed to fit a bike rack like this to a pretty small car (nissan micra), anything with a boot that is more vertical and has slight space between the top of the boot door and the car roof will work!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bLeHj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Boot Rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3361" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T11:06:01.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-18T21:32:43.937" Score="3" ViewCount="33746" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like rust on my chain and cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both were new 5 months (4000 km) ago. The chain is about 60% worn/stretched. I've been riding 5 days/week, 40 km/day, Toronto on mild winter roads, and using only 'dry' lube (i.e. alcohol and teflon) on the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I know about that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to keep my bike in good working order, so that it rides very well (but, arriving home each evening after an hour-long commute, I have had no time for bike care: I just lock it, in the laundry room). Is this rust only cosmetic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use a winter lube? What (product or servicing) should affect/prevent rust on the cassette, if that's necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I replace the chain (when it's next serviced, perhaps two months from now) should I ask the LBS to replace the cassette again as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-02-18T22:05:11.087" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T19:44:42.493" Title="Rust on chain and cassette" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8147" CreationDate="2012-02-18T22:16:09.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unclear how much rust you're talking about, but it's unlikely that a bike could develop serious rust on a chain in 5 months unless left outside with no maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've dealt with some pretty rusty bikes over the years (especially when I spent a spell working on donated bikes for Christmas Anonymous) and I've never seen a cog that was so rusty that it was unserviceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain, of course, is a different matter, but generally rust on a chain is of little consequence unless it causes &quot;stiff links&quot;, and that won't happen on a bike that's used regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend that you switch to a slightly less &quot;dry&quot; lube (or at least give the chain a few squirts of regular oil every now and again).  Also, if you've been cleaning the chain at all, be a little less diligent cleaning it -- it's not necessary to get it shiny bright, you just want to get off the crud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T22:16:09.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7726" CreationDate="2012-02-18T23:51:42.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my Lumotec IQ Cyo T senso plus powered by Shimano hub DH-3D30 also started flickering in the same way as you described after I rode in severe cold (-20C). Your lamp is very similar to mine. Initialy I suspected hub, but your hub is different. However we both have Lumotec LED lights and used them in frigid temperatures. This makes me think that the lamp was somehow damaged by winter temps. Unfortunately I have no idea how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3487" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T23:51:42.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8155" CreationDate="2012-02-19T02:06:50.047" Score="9" ViewCount="1405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the planning stage of building a new bike. This will be a light road bike for city runs and transport. For racing I have other bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to build the bike from ground up by assembling everything myself. Not sure wether to go for gears or single speed yet, but that isn't relevant to this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parameters would I need to consider when building a set of wheels?&#xA;I will probably go for steel rims to get a classic look. I've already found out &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/865/how-do-i-calculate-spoke-length&quot;&gt;how to calculate spoke length&lt;/a&gt;, and I'll try to find an old fork to mount the wheel on while building it.&#xA;The wheel consists of four parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spokes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke nipples&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protips on good parts? I guess specially the hub is important. Are there any real difference to cheap and expensive spokes as long as they are not carbon fibre?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What spoke arrangement should I go for; cross-laced or straight. Pros and cons?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In what order do I assemble the wheel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the best spoke tension (given I can measure the torque)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What tools do I need?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any general good advice when building a wheel is appreciated as I'm totally unexperienced doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of questions that is. If anything is unclear, just ask and I'll elaborate on it. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T22:37:17.670" Title="How to build a wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8147" CreationDate="2012-02-19T02:23:48.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lube&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In winter time i use a special heavy duty lube. It doesn't protect the chain a lot better than other oils but it wears off much slower giving you a bit of slack on the maintenance. None of this matters of corse if you don't clean it every now and then. If you clean it once a week, say every friday before locking it away for the weekend, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cassette&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Even with proper maintenance/cleaning it's hard to completely avoid rust in the winter. The road salt loves the metal on your bike as much as you do. A narrow steel wire brush is really good at removing surface rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to chains: They are cheap. Better to change it once too often and save the more expensive cassette so you can ride it longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T02:23:48.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8151" CreationDate="2012-02-19T03:36:17.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you get a book on bicycle maintenance that includes a chapter on wheel building.  I refer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.simonandschuster.com/Sloanes-Complete-Book-of-Bicycling/Eugene-Sloane/9780671870751&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The All New Complete Book of Bicycling&lt;/a&gt; by Eugene A Sloane (1980) (but there may be something newer ;) ).  The procedure is far from simple and straight-forward, especially for a cross-laced wheel (which you probably should do unless you fully understand the short-comings of radial), so having a step-by-step guide is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't measure spoke tension by torque, but instead (if you think you must) you use a spoke tension gauge.  (I've never used one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tools you need a board with a hole in it (to hold the hub upright) and a screwdriver that fits the slot in the tail of the nipples well.  A spoke wrench is also sometimes handy, as are a few rubber bands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also get some nipple grease.  A small jar of the stuff will last a lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T17:53:04.793" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T17:53:04.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8156" CreationDate="2012-02-19T03:37:41.323" Score="4" ViewCount="1012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got front &amp;amp; rear Phil Wood hubs for a touring setup back in Oct of 2011.  I'd been using them for commuting to work -- averaging 20 KM a day.  Except I'd been off the bike for the month of January, started again in Feb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A week ago, things felt weird.  Discussed with a fellow cyclist at work, who said it sounded like the hub was going.  The following day, there was a loud crunch from the rear and the chain felt like it was slipping.  I took the wheel into the LBS who built the wheel for me.  They told me one of the four palls had an issue, and a spring was bent, so they corrected.  I picked up the wheel today, and got 10 KM before things started again - crunching noise from the rear, and a slip.  So I dropped the wheel with the LBS, who said they'll look for a rebuilt kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a pawl?  Is it part of the freehub?  Is a rebuilt kit enough, or should I be pressing for the LBS to RMA the hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: In case anyone's interested, Phil Wood said they're aware of quality problems and wouldn't expect a rebuild kit to do much.  RMA time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastEditorUserId="2735" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T05:22:58.250" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:01:37.403" Title="Phil Wood Hubs: Anyone had a Pawl go?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8151" CreationDate="2012-02-19T03:37:49.270" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best suggestion I can make is to read &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0964983532&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;The Art of Wheelbuilding, by Gerd Schraner&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use aluminum, double walled rims. They are stronger, lighter, and believe it or not easier for a new wheel builder to get true and round than steel rims will be.&#xA;In addition, steel rims for a road bike will be difficult to come by in new condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spokes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are major differences in the strength and pliability in steel spokes. Even if you ignore spokes from other materials, which you should, look at double butted (usually 2/1.8/2mm) steel spokes from DT Swiss, or if you want really high quality, use the ones from Sapim. Read the Art of Wheelbuilding for more detail on why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a high quality hub, something with a forged hub shell, and good quality bearings. Shimano Ultegra or Dura Ace, if you want good, loose ball bearings. Hope, Phil Wood, or any number of others for good quality sealed bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use brass spokes nipples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need the following tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/professional-wheel-truing-stand-ts-2-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A good quality truing stand&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/master-spoke-wrench-sw-20-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A set of good spoke wrenches&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtswiss.com/Products/Proline/nipple-driver.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A nipple driver&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt; (broken link, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/nipple-driver-nd-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park nipple driver&lt;/a&gt; instead)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/spoke-tension-meter-tm-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A quality tensiometer&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtswiss.com/Products/Proline/DT-Swiss-spoke-freeze.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spoke Freeze or similar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt; (broken link, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtswiss.com/Accessories/Proline-Accessories&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pro line Accessories&lt;/a&gt; or at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelbuilder.com/dt-swiss-spoke-freeze.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wheelbuilder.com&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://spokes-calculator.dtswiss.com/en/calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Method of determining spoke length&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The components listed above &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time and practice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T16:08:13.610" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T16:08:13.610" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8154" CreationDate="2012-02-19T03:58:57.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Phil Wood Hubs rarely have issues. If it is the pawls that are the problem, a rebuild kit will be enough. They are replaceable parts. They are the &quot;teeth&quot; that the freehub use to drive the hub shell (and the rest of your wheel) forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let them try a rebuild. You won't lose anything by it, and it will be faster than an RMA. But if you continue to have issues after, then warranty the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T03:58:57.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-19T06:55:24.577" Score="37" ViewCount="33091" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is standard for road bikes to adopt Presta, whereas nearly all else use Schrader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7SLoA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally think Schrader are better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've had fewer Schrader valves break on me than Presta&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No problems if needing to use car pumps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have also seen long Schrader valves for deep rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less fiddly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T12:11:28.393" LastActivityDate="2020-10-11T11:58:37.830" Title="Why are both Schrader and Presta valves still used on tubes?" Tags="&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8168" CreationDate="2012-02-19T11:52:56.193" Score="22" ViewCount="119958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to move to a place closer to my work where I'll be able to ride to and from the office (9km ride each way). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not super fit but I occasionally ride to work from where I'm living now which is a 14km commute on an old mountain bike with some thinner tyres fitted. I need a change of clothes for those rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured with the move, it's a good opportunity to get into riding. I plan on riding every day and me and my gf may even sell one of our cars eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is why I'm thinking I need a real bike. I'm a little torn between getting a hybrid commuting bike or a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brain tells me a hybrid is much more practical but I tried a road bike the other day (only in a car park), and it just seems SO much lighter and smoother. In terms of the handle bars, it was awkward but I think I could get used to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yeah, if I pick a road bike where I can stick a rack on, should I just go ahead and buy a road bike instead of a hybrid? Is there anything a hybrid will offer me that a road bike will not? How do road bikes handle when they have racks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3489" LastActivityDate="2019-06-08T01:53:49.933" Title="What is the downside to me purchasing a road bike instead of a hybrid?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8157" CreationDate="2012-02-19T12:27:58.890" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;This primarily comes up as the pressures in the tires get higher.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With lower pressure wider tires, Schrader makes the most sense, if only because you can hit a gas station for some air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presta makes more sense on higher pressure tires, since it allows you to pump in higher levels with a floor pump.  Per the comments let me try and clarify.  When you use a Schrader stem the valve is depressed by a thingy in the pump head the whole time.  With a mechanical constant pressure pump (like at a gas station) this is fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with a floor pump where there is a pause between pumps, Presta works better because each time you release pressure, the valve head closes.  Then as you build pressure in the pump, when it exceeds the tires current pressure it forces the value to open, allows air in, and repeat.  Thus you can pump to higher pressures with it.  (Or at least with poorer quality pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if it bothers you, get the little one dollar adapters, and you can use a car pump with no issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T13:15:48.887" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T13:15:48.887" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2012-02-19T13:02:54.530" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have panniers on, full of paperwork, a laptop, and possibly a suit, then a road bike may well feel uncomfortable. A hybrid will cope better with the extra weight, smoothing the ride (bigger tyres, possibly suspension, more seat padding etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And fully loaded, you may find a road bike won't corner properly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the frame may twist under the extra load&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the weight distribution may not be ideal for cornering (too little weight on the front wheel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love riding to work on a full on road bike, but plan it so I leave my laptop, spare clothes etc in the office the day before so I don't have to try and lug everything in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T13:02:54.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2012-02-19T13:21:53.277" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two main advantages of a hybrid are 1) that they are more comfortable, and 2) that the larger tires will leave you less prone to getting flat tires.  The &quot;comfort&quot; thing depends on a number of factors--remember, no one logs more time on their bikes than dedicated road cyclists, and so road bikes are made for comfort--just with a steeper learning curve.  If you have back problems, you may find the more upright position of the hybrid to be beneficial.  If you are riding in a location with a freeze-thaw cycle, the roads may be unpleasantly bumpy on the skinny tires of a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other option is to consider a cyclocross bike.  Cyclocross bikes are essentially hybrids, except they stay much close to true road bikes.  You will have drop bars, and road components, but the bikes will also be sturdier, and accept wider tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T13:21:53.277" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8157" CreationDate="2012-02-19T13:44:06.527" Score="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing is that the Presta valve is thinner, and takes less of a bite out of the rim.  This is quite important as the rims get narrower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, the Presta works better with hand pumps in that there's no spring that the pump needs to overcome to get air into the tire.  Also, the Presta always has the fully-threaded body (which is possible with Schrader, but rare), so a nut can be used to hold the valve in place -- again, quite important with hand pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never had a bike valve stem break on me, that I can recall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T13:44:06.527" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8157" CreationDate="2012-02-19T14:33:41.010" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Schrader valves are more robust, this is the reason why you see them universally in use for vehicle tires. With Presta, you have to be more careful when putting in or taking off the pump nozzle or you might bend or even break either the rotating (locking) tip of the valve. You could also go to literally any gas station to pump air to your tires if you are using a Shrader valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presta's advantage is that it is thinner and the rim has a smaller valve hole in which case it makes the rim stronger. This can be a factor especially in thin bicycle rims. Another advantage of Presta valves is they can be made longer, a lot longer in fact than Shrader valves. This is especially important when you have deep aero type rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T14:33:41.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8195" CreationDate="2012-02-19T20:08:26.137" Score="1" ViewCount="3050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to purchase a new wheelset in the not too distant future and am debating between wheels that are 58mm and 85mm deep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, and this is the part I'm curious about, a hybrid of the two. (58 front, 85 rear)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a crosswind, a deep front wheel will, I believe, have a larger negative effect on stability than a deep rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is regarding this. Since I'm going to have one aero wheelset I'd like them to be able to be used in as wide a range of conditions as possible, within reason of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming a moderate crosswind situation, which would add more instability, a 58mm front wheel, or an 85mm rear wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T15:48:14.960" Title="Crosswind effect on an aerodynamic front wheel vs a rear wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8171" CreationDate="2012-02-19T22:09:40.483" Score="6" ViewCount="6487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been browsing 700c carbon rims on ebay, and noticed most are listed with the 33/50/60/88/etc mm in the title.  What does this represent?  It doesn't appear to be spoke/nipple holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, what's the general life span of a carbon rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T01:20:24.507" Title="Carbon 700c Wheels: What does 33/50/60/88 mm refer to?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8151" CreationDate="2012-02-20T01:19:58.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel rims are contradictory to your &quot;light road bike&quot; statement. Check out the Sun MK13 or CR18 if you want a classic looking rim that's aluminum double wall. There are a lot of quality hubs that aren't made by Shimano or the other big guys. I personally would get hubs with sealed bearings. DT Swiss spokes are the standard, 2.0 is single gauge and is just fine. I would go with a standard 3x pattern. Get a nipple driver. Dip spoke threads in latex paint to keep wheels true longer, acts as a very low strength loctite. Sheldon Brown provides a very useful tutorial: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T01:19:58.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8080" CreationDate="2012-02-20T01:23:44.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminum has better heat transfer properties than steel, the pads should run cooler. Shimano's XT rotors are aluminum sandwiched between two stainless layers and Shimano claims they run cooler by as much as 100 degrees Celsius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T01:23:44.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2012-02-20T02:23:14.350" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real answer is that for a 9km ride, virtually any bike will do the trick. It's hard to be uncomfortable on a bike (that fits you) for that short of a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm fully in the road bike camp on this question. Hybrids are, in my opinion, a compromise with no real benefits. Most people aren't going to ride them off-road (and most road bikes can deal with short periods of offroad travel without problems). Cushioned saddles look great to novices, but divert weight away from your &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html#hardsoft&quot;&gt;sit bones&lt;/a&gt; and are all but guaranteed to be uncomfortable should you decide to ride longer distances (for this reason, I can't recommend leather saddles highly enough, particularly Brooks'). The knobby tires that come standard on most hybrids have poor road  handling characteristics, and actually result in less traction on the road in wet conditions (bicycles &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#hydroplaning&quot;&gt;cannot hydroplane&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the contrary, a properly setup road commuter will offer you more hand positions via the drop handlebars (on the flats, the hoods, and drops) compared to just one. This will be &lt;em&gt;invaluable&lt;/em&gt; for longer rides where your hands fatigue from maintaining one position. They can come with wider non-racing tires (I commute on 28C &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/wheels/tires-clincher/panaracer/ribmo/prd_411353_2489crx.aspx&quot;&gt;Panaracer Ribmo&lt;/a&gt; tires, and haven't had a flat in over 10,000km). And appropriate commuting frames come with rack and pannier bosses, and many will have racks preinstalled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while a hybrid bike will work, an appropriately-equipped road bike would be &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; in that it will be able to adapt to your needs should find yourself wanting to ride longer distances or join faster group rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T13:55:34.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T13:55:34.697" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8151" CreationDate="2012-02-20T04:04:12.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another book recommendation: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0960723668&quot;&gt;The Bicycle Wheel&lt;/a&gt; by Jobst Brandt. He covers a lot of engineering detail (forces acting on wheel components, failure modes, etc) but also includes practical step-by-step instructions for wheel assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T04:04:12.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8172" CreationDate="2012-02-20T04:11:06.033" Score="6" ViewCount="9894" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the benefit of using titanium skewer beside the fact that it's light?&#xA;Is it strong enough to hold my weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="634" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T04:41:17.777" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T20:52:57.543" Title="What's the benefit of a titanium skewer?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;skewer&gt;&lt;titanium&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8165" CreationDate="2012-02-20T04:48:09.957" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;That dimension refers to the depth of the rim.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/zipps-404-carbon-clincher-first-look-26060&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on some particular carbon rims, that includes a cross-sectional diagram.  Deeper wheels tend to be more aerodynamic, though they are heavier, and handle worse in crosswinds.  Thus, different rim depths are more suitable for different types of races.  88mm rims are almost exclusively used in time trials and triathlons, while shallow rims will be more popular for races with lots of climbing.  For riders without the luxury of multiple wheelsets, 38-60mm seems to be the standard depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The life span of carbon rims (or any rim, for that matter) depends greatly on the type of riding done.  Typically, a wheel will need to be replaced because the braking surface has worn down.  This means that the wheel's longevity is dependent on the type of riding done.  Long descents with lots of braking will accelerate the wear.  Riding in the rain will accelerate the wear.  Keeping the brake pads and rims clean will increase the longevity.  Also, some carbon wheels have carbon braking surfaces, which are more sensitive, while others have aluminum braking surfaces, which are more durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am hesitant to give an exact number, but I'd say a reasonably-well maintained wheelset should probably last 10,000-20,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T04:48:09.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8170" CreationDate="2012-02-20T09:48:20.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from weight, there is no real benefit. Titanium is an alloyed steel, and has no limitation on weight or riding style, generally, although there are likely ultra light versions which do have limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T09:48:20.460" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8164" CreationDate="2012-02-20T09:55:35.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your front wheel directly affects your bike's handling through its direct connection to your steering, the front wheel will have a larger and more immediate effect on the stability of the bike in a crosswind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, however, that that assumes equal wheel depth. In addition, the brand and design of the wheel matters a great deal. For instance, according to Zipp, the new Firecrest wheels are designed to have their best performance in a 30 degree crosswind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is common to see riders, especially in unusually windy, or consistently windy areas, use a lower depth front wheel compared to the rear wheel. The benefit is well known, but the amount of benefit varies depending on the wheel design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T09:55:35.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8170" CreationDate="2012-02-20T13:18:50.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have broken a&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ti stem that held my handlbars.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ti seat rail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ti frame (in 3 places now, alas)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Ti is not magical, but this is on a 18 year old frame now, so not that surprising.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have broken several axles, but steel ones have been sufficient for the last few years for me.  I suspect weight is the only benefit, however when you care at the level of a few grams, it seems silly when a full water bottle weighs almost a kilo. (1 litre of water weighs 1 kilo)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T13:18:50.767" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-20T18:46:26.727" Score="7" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far my only approach to buying a seat is &quot;That looks like a good one, I'll buy it and hope it works for me.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That isn't very cost effective... I don't think the bike store will let me return it after I ride around on it for a few hours. Which means if I don't like a seat that I bought, I'd have to buy yet another one just to try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good guidelines for selecting a new bike seat that doesn't feel like I've been sitting on a block of wood? How do you select one that &quot;fits&quot; when trial-and-error isn't an option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a mountain bike and enjoy trail riding, but these days I ride on pavement most of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3494" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T20:18:00.383" Title="Guidelines for buying a new seat" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8157" CreationDate="2012-02-20T18:48:50.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also had fewer issues with crap clogging the valve with presta valves; as long as you remember to spin the valve closed you don't need a valve stem cap. This is particularly important if you're riding in mud or dirt. I run presta on both my road and mountain bikes for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T18:48:50.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8175" CreationDate="2012-02-20T19:08:42.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some shops do offer a fit guaranty,it doesn't hurt to ask.Bring in your old saddle and explain to them what doesn't fit.They should be able offer suggestions.This is a classic case where spending a few extra bucks at the local shop can pay dividends later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T19:08:42.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8175" CreationDate="2012-02-20T19:12:30.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many bike shops actually offer demo saddles so riders have a chance to try them out without buying them.  You should call around any see if any of the shops in your area offer such an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't demo the saddle, the first thing you need to figure out is why your saddle is uncomfortable.  Saddles can be uncomfortable for two main reasons: because there isn't material where you want it, or because there is material where you don't want it.  When you're sitting on your current saddle, where are you feeling pressure.  Ideally, it should be on your sit bones.  If it isn't, do you need a saddle that's narrower or wider?  If you're having issues with numbness, you might find it beneficial to adapt a saddle with a cutout.  If you're experiencing chafing, you probably need a narrower saddle with less padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also wish to examine the angle of your current saddle.  A typical rider will want to have the saddle horizontal, but even a few degrees of tilt can make a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T19:12:30.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8175" CreationDate="2012-02-20T19:53:23.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely follow the other answers advice to find a shop that offers demos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to add that one of my local shops (that carries Bontrager) has a saddle sizing station that they have you get up on and measure widths/lengths and whatnot. The saddles for this particular sizing tool are Bontrager specific, but wanted to let you know at least. Be sure to wear what you plan to ride in you have a local shop that offers this service as when you get sized, you will want to be wearing the same gear you'll be riding in for the most accurate measurements. Even with this sizing, ask if you can demo the saddle for a week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T19:53:23.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8175" CreationDate="2012-02-20T20:18:00.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, a technicality, but the part you're looking for is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;saddle, not a seat&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the gold standard for commuting, touring, and essentially all non-racing saddles is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooksengland.com/catalogue-and-shop/saddles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brooks tensioned leather saddle&lt;/a&gt; (in particular, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://brooksengland.com/catalogue-and-shop/saddles/touring+%26+trekking/B17+Standard/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;B17 Standard&lt;/a&gt;). As opposed to a typical saddle which is a foam core with a plastic shell, a tensioned leather saddle will, when broken in, adapt to the characteristics of your particular behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swear by mine, as do virtually all those I know who have them. If you ride in any brevets (200km+ rides), you'll also note that almost all the participants have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T20:18:00.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2012-02-20T21:24:11.050" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main downside to the road bike is mounting options for fenders, rack, and panniers, etc. Basically, &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; road bikes available simply don't have the braze-on's for fenders, racks, etc. So, you'll have to shop around for a road bike with braze-on options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said...I commuted for years on a road bike with no braze-ons...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are fenders that clip onto the stays in the rear and the fork in front that are reasonably secure. (If you frequently ride in wet conditions, you'll want fenders.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are seat-post mounted racks which are capable of holding panniers. The downside is that the load capacity is considerably less than when you have braze-ons to support the load. (My seat-post mounted rack on my old road bike can accomodate ~20lbs; whereas I can put ~40+lbs in the panniers on my hybrid with braze-ons)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other option for hauling stuff is to use a backpack or messenger bag. This is not a deal breaker for some people and some commutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of hybrids... There are &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; options for hybrid bikes these days. As far as I know, all of them have a general set of braze-ons that allow for fenders, racks, panniers. All of the major manufacturers have multiple &quot;hybrid&quot; options. Some of these hybrids are pretty sweet bikes with mainly road bike features. They're often marketed as &quot;fitness&quot; hybrids. An example that a friend just bought, is the &quot;District 9&quot; by Trek; he did swap out the upright bars for drop bars though. Point is, several manufacturers (Scott, Cannondale, Specialized, etc.) make this type of hybrid, so this could be a good option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your third option could be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Touring_bicycle#Road_touring&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;touring bike&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, figure out your major use and how much stuff you're going to be hauling around. Then start shopping around and try out a few bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To complete my answer...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently helped a friend shop for a new bike for his commute. He is mostly a road cyclist, but finally selected a &quot;fitness&quot; or &quot;road inspired&quot; hybrid for commuting purposes and lunch time workouts. The bike is essentially a road bike, but with braze-ons for fenders and rack/panniers. It's also somewhat heavier than a regular road bike, came stocked with 700x28c tires, nice rims, had flat bars, racing type seat and otherwise had quality components. He made a deal with the bike shop to swap out to drop bars and shifters/brake levers for the drop bars. This is a nice bike which is a lot of fun to ride; and seriously I could easily spend 4 - 6 hours on this bike, but I wouldn't want to do a very hilly century on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Anyway...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a road bike if you really want one and aren't terribly concerned about hauling loads. Otherwise, newer &quot;fitness/road inspired&quot; hybrids may be a good option for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-02-21T20:55:50.417" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T20:55:50.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3516" CreationDate="2012-02-20T21:53:54.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an article on that subject:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/health/fitness/exercise/fitness-research/with-muscles-use-it-or-lose-it-rings-true/article2342273/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;With muscles, 'use it or lose it' rings true&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good and bad news:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With regular extreme exercise, some people stay strong into their 70s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quotes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The subjects in the study were 40 recreational masters athletes between the ages of 40 and 81, who trained four to five times a week for running, swimming or cycling races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, neither leg muscle size nor strength declined significantly with age among the subjects, suggesting that regular training had warded off the muscle-wasting effects of aging. The sample MRIs showed virtually indistinguishable quadriceps in a 40-year-old triathlete compared with a 70-year-old triathlete. In contrast, the quadriceps of a 74-year-old sedentary man were shrivelled and enveloped in fat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;However muscles and &quot;spinal motor neurons&quot; which you don't exercise don't benefit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The older runners had a slightly higher number of arm motor units than their sedentary peers, but the difference wasn’t statistically significant. Both were dramatically lower than the younger controls – a finding that wasn’t entirely unexpected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;loss of motor units is only one aspect of age-related decline ... choose a mix of exercises that also target cardiorespiratory fitness and bone health ... the majority [of Canadians] still don’t meet even minimum guidelines for physical activity ...  current decisions about exercise [affect] quality of life a few decades down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“We control 70 per cent of how we age,” she says. “The other 30 per cent is genetic, and we can blame our mothers for that. But 70 per cent is in our hands.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T21:53:54.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3516" CreationDate="2012-02-21T00:31:11.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago, I read an academic journal on exercise physiology.  From memory, almost all measures of fitness decline from around age 30, &lt;strong&gt;except&lt;/strong&gt; strength.  The test subjects in the study increased their strength to whatever the maximum age measured in the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind, my own experience is greater endurance as an older athlete than when younger.  Mostly due to working out appropriately to meet the goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3496" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T00:31:11.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2012-02-21T02:35:22.750" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife bought a Stryder bike, which is a two wheeler, with no pedals/crank/chain/etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My son sits on it, pushes and brakes with his feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He rode about 40 miles this summer on it.  (The pool is about a 3 mile round trip from our house, and we rode there a fair bit). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now he glides and balances very well.  We have to get him a real bike this summer, to save money on worn out shoes from breaking with his feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure this would work with an adult/non-child but it seems to be working well on my son.  (Started at 2.5 and still riding it now as a 4 year old).  We plan on skipping training wheels altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T02:35:22.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2012-02-21T02:57:46.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you like to visit very steep climb, I suggest using 50/34 for chainring and 12/27 10 speed&#xA;12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,24,27 for your sprocket, or  11-28 includes - 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,28&#xA;27 or 28 is very usefull if you climb more than 25% grade...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have a strong power output 53/39 chainring with 12-25 includes - 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25 should be sufficient...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did 20% with 39/25....so every one is unique for this sprocket/chainring selection, depends on your leg :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T02:57:46.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8170" CreationDate="2012-02-21T08:57:25.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ti&lt;/strong&gt; = really &lt;strong&gt;expensive&lt;/strong&gt; = really &lt;strong&gt;light&lt;/strong&gt; = usually &lt;strong&gt;racing&lt;/strong&gt; parts = &lt;strong&gt;shortened lifespan&lt;/strong&gt; due to the gram saving which actually weakens the parts for the long haul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you race and need every ounce shaved off and your sponser is paying then they're great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't race or are paying your own way then you'd be better off spending your cash on something meant for longer life and trying to skip that post ride beer to save on long term weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T08:57:25.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8147" CreationDate="2012-02-21T13:21:56.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Daniel R Hicks, In my experience chains can show surface rust very quickly once having regular exposure to water, especially in the winter if roads are salted.  However, don't worry too much by the rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are cleaning your chain using water &amp;amp; degreaser etc. then apply water repellent such as WD40 to the chain afterwards.  Wipe dry and then lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If riding regularly in wet weather I'd as above recommend a specific wet lube, typical application is put a reasonable amount on and wipe off excess.  Move the chain up and down the rear cassette to give that a coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In dry weather I use a dry lube as they attract less muck but it is best to use a &quot;little and often&quot; approach to adding to your running gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re. Cassette:&#xA;It is advisable to change your rear cassette at the same time as your chain so that you get even wear, otherwise the shifting can be affected.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3412" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T13:21:56.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8147" CreationDate="2012-02-21T18:03:49.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your rusty chain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; ruled by the calendar or by mileage/kilometerage; it is ruled by elongation and/or by corrosion damage. Chain life varies depending on chain type, maintenance, riding conditions, and strength and weight of the rider. However, as a ballpark number, figure on replacing the chain every 1,000-1,500 miles (1600-2400km) if the bike is ridden in dirty conditions or with infrequent lubrication  by a heavy rider. Lighter cyclists riding mostly on clean, dry roads can extend the replacement time to 2,000-3,000 miles (3218-4828km) with poor maintenance, and up to 5,000 miles (8046km) with a daily high-quality lubrication. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The best thing you can do to improve chain life and performance is to frequently wipe it down and lubricate with a high quality chain lube* appropriate for the conditions. (This is basically ~10 minutes every day. Park, wipe, lube, done.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next thing is to regularly check for elongation, say a couple of times a month. You can do this with a chain-elongation gauge or with a ruler. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;When it becomes elongated; replace it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; You don't replace the chain by the calendar. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your chainrings and cogs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number one thing determining the lifespan of your chainrings and cogs is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;how well you maintain your chain!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you always replace the chain when necessary (elongated), and keep it clean/lubed you can easily go through 3 or more chains before needing to replace the cogs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning the cogs, chainrings, and the rest of the drive train frequently (at least weekly) will also expand the lifespans of these components. (This takes 10 to 15 minutes for a quick cleaning.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation, your cog-set may be damaged at this point, and if so, you need to replace it. However, once you replace that and your chain, you can get a lot more mileage out of your entire drivetrain with some basic, regular maintenance and lubrication. With a quick daily wipe-down and lubrication, the rust issue should disappear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: Answer based on experience plus advice by Lennard Zinn books and Sheldon Brown's web site.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikes.progoldmfr.com/products/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pro Gold&lt;/a&gt; for chain lube. Others may have different opinions as there are a number of high quality chain lubes on the market. Anyway, just get a high quality winter chain lubricant and use it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T19:44:42.493" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T19:44:42.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2012-02-22T00:44:52.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;hybrid&lt;/strong&gt; is going to have a &lt;strong&gt;larger gear inch range&lt;/strong&gt; than a road bike, typically - translation: You'll have a few more lower gears for those hills.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's going to have a more &lt;strong&gt;relaxed frame angle&lt;/strong&gt; - translation: It'll feel like a softer ride but with less nimbleness in the reaction of the steering which you may or may not like.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the more relaxed geometry, that &lt;strong&gt;allowes room for racks, bigger fenders(mud guards) and larger tires&lt;/strong&gt; if you feel the skinny tires are not your thing.  It stretches things out when you have a relaxed geometry.  The frame will have more braze-ons too for those expected add-ons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hybrids also &lt;strong&gt;typically come spec'd with a straight handle bar like a MTB&lt;/strong&gt; but that can be easily changed out for a traditional drop bar which gives you loads more positions to hang onto plus you can get dual brake levers - hooded brakes for the drops with two-finger brakes in serial on the uppers.  Mind you with a road bike you can change the drops to an upright straight bar too.  Usually people change to a straight bar because they feel they won't be able to grab the brake levers fast enough if they have drops.  However after you get the hang of things you start to ride with your hands on the hoods and have a couple of fingers resting on the levers ready to feather the brakes when you need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a road bike you have a very small point of contact with the road (skinny tires high preasure) which is why it feels (and is) more responsive.  You could get road bike tires for a hybrid and get the same feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, hybrids are &lt;strong&gt;designed more for rec riders so they make them a little bit more beefy&lt;/strong&gt; than a road bike, which are trying hard to be as light as possible.  Chances are at a given price point you'll see the road bike win the weight battle.  Mind you it might only be by a pound so once you factor in the gear you'll be carrying with you you won't really care about that too much.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T00:44:52.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2012-02-22T02:42:22.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I taught my kids the same way I learned - running alongside them with a firm grip on the back of the saddle, and sometimes on the handlebars, over and over again, trying not to wrench my shoulder too hard when preventing them from falling over.  First on grass, later on the sidewalk, and at last just jogging alongside and not letting them notice that I wasn't holding on any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it worked because they were fully supported by someone they trusted at all times when they needed it, and that support was gradually replaced with their own ability, whether they initially realized it or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1679" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T16:26:23.193" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T16:26:23.193" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8170" CreationDate="2012-02-22T04:19:16.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is light, and doesn't corrode.  The skewer doesn't take weight at all - that is all held on the axle.  The skewer just provides compressive force to stop the axle dropping out of the forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T04:19:16.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-22T11:55:59.350" Score="5" ViewCount="7997" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road bike setup at the moment is:&#xA;Shimano Tiagra (9 Speed) Shifters / Front Derailleur / 52-39T Chainset / Short Cage Rear Derailleur / Casette 27-11T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I be able to do a straight swap and install an Ultegra 6300 52-39-30T Triple Chainset designed for 10 speed?&#xA;If not any other ideas?&#xA;Many thanks&#xA;Steve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3501" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T18:14:37.537" Title="Changing from Shimano Road Double Chainset to Triple Chainset?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5331" CreationDate="2012-02-22T13:34:14.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/technology/2012/feb/19/martin-love-porsche-bike-cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;review of the Porsche RS bike&lt;/a&gt; in The Guardian the reviewer suggests that car manufacturers simply don't have credibility as bike manufacturers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They're &lt;em&gt;car&lt;/em&gt; makers and most Porsche owners I know would drive they're beloved cars into their own bedrooms if only they could. As for cyclists, they're just as brand obsessed, but &lt;strong&gt;the same brands don't have credibility in both spheres&lt;/strong&gt;. MAMILS will gladly fork out £5,000 on a bike; it's just that it would be a Colnago or a Pinarello. Men in leather jackets and Clarkson jeans would clearly spend the five grand upgrading their PDK gearbox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(MAMILS = middle-aged men in lycra)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T13:34:14.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8164" CreationDate="2012-02-22T15:48:14.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that a deep front rim will almost always affect handling more than a deep rear rim. The exact answer depends, as you surmised, on windspeed and yaw angle; however, it also depends on the design and geometry of the bike and the rims in question. For Tri or TT bikes where the rider is positioned maximally forward (or, under UCI regulations, the saddle tip is minimally 5 cm behind the bottom bracket), under moderate wind conditions a deeper rear rim tends to &lt;strong&gt;improve&lt;/strong&gt; the bike's handling compared to a normal shallow box rim. This is not an absolute, however -- for very gusty winds at high yaw angles and very deep or disk wheels, handling can suffer. This is why rear disk wheels (though not deep rear rims) are prohibited on the windy Ironman Kona course. Wheel manufacturers have been spending a great deal of effort in recent years improving the performance of deep rim and disk wheels under non-zero yaw conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T15:48:14.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8202" CreationDate="2012-02-22T18:59:57.077" Score="11" ViewCount="3131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disassembled my bike's drivetrain to degrease and regrease all the components. I used a chain-breaker for the first time (previous bikes had a master link) to open a chain link and remove the chain. Afterwards, I reassembled the chain but found the link I'd opened is very stiff to the point where, as the link emerges from the chainring, it stays bent until it moves through the derailer and which point it snaps straight again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried making small adjustments to the rivet holding the link together and adding additional lubricant with no success. I even removed that link from the chain completely (assuming I'd bent something slightly), only to have the &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; link I opened/closed become the stiff one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal after using a chain-breaker to open a link? Should I expect the stiffness in the link to work itself out, or have I done something wrong? Is there anything else I can try to loosen up the stiff link?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T23:59:09.403" Title="Should a link opened/closed by a chain-breaker be stiff afterwards?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8196" CreationDate="2012-02-22T19:19:04.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The answer posted by Daniel Hicks and the comment by user973810 are better. Just in case, the following method works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Unfortunately, this is normal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the link is closed back, the opposing compression caused by the chain tool and the incoming pin makes the outer plates become hardly pressed against each other, which means they press all other layers (inner plates and roller) too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately it is very easy to &quot;fix&quot; it: just grab firmly with your hands, one around each side of the hard link, and bend it SIDEWAYS, with some serious force (but not raw violence), as if you wanted to bend the chain. Do it for both sides (&quot;left&quot; and &quot;right&quot; of the chain). You'll notice the link is now free. If it is just less stiff, do it again. Don't be afraid, it won't damage the chain, only your wrists if you don't grab firmly (because the chain might suddenly flex along it's normal flexing direction, twisting your hands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunatly, most times this procedure leaves your hands stained/dirty. You can use gloves or some pieces of old newspaper to avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T23:59:09.403" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T23:59:09.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-22T19:22:54.800" Score="3" ViewCount="1294" Body="&lt;p&gt;This must be a very basic question, but as it often happens with very basic questions, it is often hard to find the answer by searching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a modern bike with metal (welded) frame, is the interior of the top tube (and/or the down tube) accessible through the head tube? I.e does the head tube have holes in it that lead into the other attached tubes of the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I could see on the Net, it appears that the head tube is typically a full cylindrical tube, without any holes. Is that so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, it seems that I have some parts rattling inside the top tube of my bike (Specialized TriCross), which routes the rear brake cable through the top tube. I wonder how they got there, if the interior of the top tube is not accessible (aside from two fairly small cable holes/openings)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastEditorUserId="2918" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T19:40:32.877" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T16:37:18.360" Title="Does the top tube typically open into the head tube?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8198" CreationDate="2012-02-22T19:57:34.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you described:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear brake routed through inner top tube;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rattling appeared in the inner tube after hard braking;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suspect (95% certainty) that the rattling comes from the very rear brake cabling/housing/routing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cables/routings could be removed to check if the rattling persists;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the inner tube is not directly visible (and so one cannot know for sure what's going on inside), perhaps contating the manufacturer to ask for advice could be a good idea, too;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a more detailed description of the conditions of rattling (with the bike moving or not, when the bike is leaned, when front/rear wheel is lifted from ground, on certain types of terrain, only while braking, only while NOT braking, etc.) would help to narrow the possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T19:57:34.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8198" CreationDate="2012-02-22T19:57:44.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak for all bicycles, and methods of construction, but I just checked on one of my aluminum framed bikes that I have lying around, and both the head tube and the seat tube had small holes (smaller than the diameter of the top tube, but perhaps 5-10mm in diameter) opening up into the top tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T19:57:44.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8198" CreationDate="2012-02-22T20:28:57.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any welded tubes are going to have holes in their ends in order to let the hot gases escape. So, yes, there is virtually always going to be a hole connecting the interior of the top tube and the head tube (along with every other tube on the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T20:28:57.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8196" CreationDate="2012-02-22T21:41:04.910" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only if you didn't relieve the link after putting it back together.  It's standard procedure (if you read the instructions that came with the tool) -- you stick the chain tool into the &quot;stiff&quot; link so that the anvil is BETWEEN the sides of the link and only catches the near face, then crank the tool's pin down VERY SLIGHTLY against the chain pin, just enough to create some play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T21:41:04.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8204" CreationDate="2012-02-23T02:17:24.937" Score="2" ViewCount="11011" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I press my left brake lever, nothing happens. I looked and the cable is loose. It comes completely out of the little silver thing on the left side of the handle. (left when looking at pic)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual brake lever also moves too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am a literally newbie at this. I have NO idea whats' wrong and google isn't smart enough to help a bike idiot like me.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Make/model = It's a V brake Shimano &quot;V-Brake&quot;. For bike it's a Raleigh 4.5&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had my bike worked on again today and now THIS is an issue.... :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b0fvZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxXva.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OMqL0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Picture of the area near the wheel. This is where I suspect I need to do something. This is where it is &quot;really&quot; loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmzeg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3504" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T03:34:55.930" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T03:34:55.930" Title="Cable/cord near brake level is extremely loose, brake doesn't work" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8203" CreationDate="2012-02-23T03:11:53.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, the V-brake is improperly assembled.  The curved metal tube is supposed to &quot;catch&quot; the end where it touches the rubber accordion thing in the notch in the dohickey attached to the right-hand-side brake arm (which is on the left in your picture).  Either it got knocked out (possibly while the bike was being put into/taken out of your car trunk) or the notch has spread (unlikely) letting the tube slip through.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html&quot;&gt;Here is a picture&lt;/a&gt; of how it ought to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that the brake is designed to come apart at that point.  This allows the arms to be spread apart to make it easier to remove the wheel for service.  In fact, it's not too unusual for a repair tech to forget to reconnect this after servicing a bike.  Or it may have been loosened to remove the wheel while transporting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T03:11:53.047" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8151" CreationDate="2012-02-23T04:55:08.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok this is probably getting a bit much now, but I also have a Book suggestion:&#xA;'&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Professional Guide to Wheel Building&lt;/a&gt;' by Roger Musson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this book and some plans on his site when building my first 26&quot; single-speed wheel, and again for a bomb-proof 24&quot; with cassette hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realise there are a lot of online resources out there, but I found that having a book that could be wedged open under my vice (make-shift truing stand at the time) was invaluable - especially when trying to get lacing right for the first time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T04:55:08.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8207" CreationDate="2012-02-23T07:57:14.733" Score="4" ViewCount="2482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to change my disc brake rotors. I discovered that I require a star tool. Here is a picture of my rotor bolts. Can someone point out a tool that will fit this? Prefer a bike tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give some indication of its size. The first size of hex key that becomes too big to fit within the star is: 4mm. 3mm fits within the star.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one of those wonderful screw drivers that come with 40 or so heads to fit all those different screw types (cheap china Ebay job), but the star in this kit does not fit snugly and I don't wish to risk rounding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSec1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T23:18:15.027" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T00:39:31.577" Title="Require a star tool to remove disc rotor" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8206" CreationDate="2012-02-23T08:11:55.957" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want the correctly sized Torx driver. When I had to swap to a new wheel set I used a T25 driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just found a Park Tool TWS-2 that has 9 different sizes. You can probably find just a T25 driver at a hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T08:11:55.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8198" CreationDate="2012-02-23T11:09:18.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most welded (metal) frames will have vent holes for welding gases and heat from the welding process to escape. That makes it easier to prevent the frame from warping from the heat. That is the 5-10mm millimeter holes described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/8200/1259&quot;&gt;the answer by @prototoast&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most carbon frames will have much larger access in to the top tube and down tube, especially recently designed frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the noise you are describing sounds like it has a different cause, like the cable stop for your brake cable breaking loose inside the frame, or a piece of the cable housing, perhaps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have your LBS mechanic check out your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T16:37:18.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8211" CreationDate="2012-02-23T19:44:58.617" Score="1" ViewCount="2812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replace my cassette which is 7 speed 14-34 shimano. The problem is I can't find exactly the same one. All I saw its 13-34 or 14-32 cassettes. So the question is: It is possible to replace my cassette with 14-32 or even lower e.g. 13-26 without replacing a chain or any other replacements? Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T01:01:52.643" Title="Replace 7 speed 14-34 cassette" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;7-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8210" CreationDate="2012-02-23T21:13:38.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you're not adding larger cogs than you've got on right now, your existing chain should be a functional length.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing to consider is that if your current chain has significant wear, running it with a new cassette can damage the cassette (effectively very rapidly turning your &quot;new&quot; cassette into your &quot;old&quot; cassette), so even though your old chain should work fine with your new cassette, it may be worth it to replace it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T21:13:38.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8215" CreationDate="2012-02-23T21:43:06.427" Score="5" ViewCount="1806" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike's front wheel is quick-release (QR), but the rear has a traditional skewer (because of the hub gears). It also has disc brakes, and as you'd expect, there isn't a lot of clearance between the brake pads and the discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When removing and replacing the wheels, I find it easy to make sure the rear wheel is free of the pads: when I close one eye and peer through the brake calliper assembly, I can see light either side of the disc. If I can't see light on one side, I loosen the nut on that side of the axle, and tighten the other one. Then when I spin the wheel, it spins freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I replace the front wheel with the QR skewer, I find that as tightening the QR pulls the forks together slightly, I often end up with the disc touching one of the pads. I then have to undo the QR, loosen or tighten it by half a turn or so, and then try again. Usually it takes me two or three tries to get it right, and I don't think the QR is really tight enough when the wheel is free to rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easier way to get it lined up? In case it makes a difference, the pads and discs are about 6 months old and I use them every day in all weathers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T23:28:02.837" Title="How do I correctly align the brake disc with the callipers when replacing my quick-release wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2012-02-23T22:51:25.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our kid is a wimp when it comes to bumps and I'm overprotective, so just sticking some pads on her and letting her go wasn't an option - the scrapes and bruises would've turned her off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tried riding on grass but couldn't find any place with enough of a gentle slope to overcome the extra resistance from the soft ground.  But right next to one of the grass fields we tried was a small basketball court with new, smooth asphalt, so I spent about half an hour jogging along next to her, holding the seat of the bike and one of her arms to steady her while she got used to the feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that she got used to the feel of balancing much faster when I had her turn - she'd lean into the turn, I'd make sure she didn't lean too far or turn the bars too sharply and she quickly got to the point that I could mostly let her go.  (Also, I'd be on the inside of the turn so I didn't have to run as much - less of an issue for people who aren't as out of shape!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did that first half-hour session, did another one the next day, then the third session she rode around a track-and-field track a few times and I only trailed along with her the first couple times.  She wasn't fast, the turns were gentle, but that got her some time on the bike.  Since then, we've done a couple rides, and some make-shift obstacle courses around light poles on a nearby plaza and she's progressing fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue for us is that it rains a lot here (Vancouver) and I don't like to ride in the rain and I'm not prepared to buy good gear for her to ride in a downpour, so we pretty much parked the bikes over the winter and are only getting back into it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T22:51:25.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-23T23:06:03.830" Score="12" ViewCount="20841" Body="&lt;p&gt;We drop our kid at school in the mornings, and I'd like to bike over to pick her up after school.  I've picked her up on our tandem (that's one reason I got the tandem), but she'd like to ride her own bike some of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I need a way to take her bike with me, something like this, I guess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7RSbe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trail-gator picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...except I don't need to be able to support the weight of the kid on the bike, I only need to be able to tow a riderless bike.  So I'm trying to find a way to do the same thing that's cheaper (hopefully) and lighter (and maybe smaller?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility (that I'll try) is to simply strap her bike to the back of the tandem.  I'm sure that will work, but I'd also like a system that works if my wife is the also riding the tandem and a system that would on a single bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T16:30:25.917" Title="Is there a do-it-yourself way to tow a kid's bike?" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8212" CreationDate="2012-02-23T23:28:02.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern disc brakes (mechanical or hydraulic) can be aligned by loosening the caliper from the frame or fork, grabbing the brake hard, and re-securing the bolts. Then once you let go of the brake, it should be centered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not ideal for the trail, but easy in the garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T23:28:02.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8214" CreationDate="2012-02-23T23:35:45.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using some conduit and bungee cords, i presume you could fashion some sort of hooks. I envision a simple 180 bend on the main bike, and a T with both ends of the T also having a 180 bend on the bike side. Sounds hokey, but i made a picture, maybe it works, maybe it get the wheels turning on a better idea. Just need to find a way to use a bungee cord or two to keep it all together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tg845.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T23:35:45.167" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8214" CreationDate="2012-02-23T23:41:27.467" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the child's bike has a quick release front wheel, you could also use a universal fork mount bolted to a rear bike rack. Then just hang the front wheel on the kids bike with a bungee cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BMiqa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T23:41:27.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8210" CreationDate="2012-02-23T23:47:41.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're replacing it with a similar range (1-2 teeth at either end) you should be fine. I wouldn't recommend changing the gear range significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced my cassette with a much smaller biggest (in terms of number of teeth) gear and it wouldn't shift into the top couple of gears. I believe the length of the pivot arm on your derailleur is tuned (to a certain degree) to the range of your cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with prototoast that you should probably replace your chain at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T23:47:41.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8210" CreationDate="2012-02-24T00:16:44.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also verify that it is a Shimano compatable cassette.It doesn't have to be a Shimano brand just Shimano compatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T00:16:44.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8230" CreationDate="2012-02-24T03:52:53.037" Score="2" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a Ti frame with a 135mm rear end, disc brake.  And I have invested in wheels for my commuter, which is disc brake... but a 130 mm spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is 5 mm enough of a concern -- impact to the frame, the disc brake setup -- that I should look for a frame with a 132.5 mm spacing if I want to be able to use wheels off my commuter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T17:27:55.140" Title="135mm rear end, 130mm rear wheel, Titanium frame" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;titanium&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8214" CreationDate="2012-02-24T03:56:05.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you could use a surf board rack and try to slot the front wheel into the hooks somehow.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gWGWu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea started when I thought maybe some kind of horizontal loop attached to the bike rack that you could just slot the front wheel in. It's hard to describe and my drawing skills are awful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T03:56:05.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8221" CreationDate="2012-02-24T04:28:43.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;5mm flex in either direction on a Ti frame should cause no issues at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done it with steel no issues in either direction. Even spread a 110mm redline SS steel frame to fit a 135mm wheel with no issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="3338" LastEditDate="2012-02-25T17:27:55.140" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T17:27:55.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-24T09:54:37.003" Score="5" ViewCount="24651" Body="&lt;p&gt;What tool is needed to remove a Shimano HG-50 freewheel from the wheel hub? It looks like a 12mm or 13mm Allen key. Will this do it or is there some detail I have missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="129" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T07:39:41.477" Title="What tool is needed to remove a Shimano HG-50 freewheel?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8224" CreationDate="2012-02-24T10:27:17.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an HG 50 Cassette.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vBjkv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;HG-50 Cassette&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7umYc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Exploded view of Shimano freehub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an exploded view of a Shimano freehub showing the 10mm or 12mm allen key used to remove the freehub from the hub shell. I believe this is the allen you are referencing, but it need not be removed to remove the gear cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instructions for removing either a cassette or a freewheel can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-and-freewheel-removal-and-installation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is truly a freewheel. then this is the appropriate tool, the Park FR-1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OH7Lt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Park Tool FR-1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a cassette remover, then this is the appropriate tool, the Park FR-5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b9rk1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tool FR-5&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;along with this one, or a similar chain whip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8EuV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tool Chain Whip&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="22446" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T07:39:41.477" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T07:39:41.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8231" CreationDate="2012-02-24T16:11:47.760" Score="2" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding on roads? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to go to the work (in São Paulo, Brazil), by bicycle. But I live in a neighbor city, and I need to get a high traffic road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your experience with this, and could it be safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3516" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T17:48:51.047" Title="Cycling in high traffic roads" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8226" CreationDate="2012-02-24T16:20:29.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be safe and/or it can be dangerous: depending on the road, the time of day, and how you ride. I have been hit once (from behind, not my fault).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T16:20:29.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8226" CreationDate="2012-02-24T16:25:28.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Chris says, a lot depends on the road, the traffic, and your riding style.  If you have a road with a generous shoulder then you can usually ride on that safely in even the heaviest traffic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you must ride in the driving lanes a big part of safety is knowing how to &quot;claim your lane&quot; and having the courage to do so.  This means riding well towards the center of the lane rather than trying to stay over towards the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But we here in the US have no way to judge the nature of the traffic (or the drivers) in Sao Paulo.  If drivers are too aggressive/macho then it becomes unsafe to cycle in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T16:25:28.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8214" CreationDate="2012-02-24T16:35:58.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had similar problem some time ago while my kid was 6 years old more or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have those trekking rear racks with &quot;dumbo ears&quot; that avoid the panniers to touch the rear wheel. So, I took some of those hooked elastic ropes and tied the front wheel of the bike side-by-side to the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, the best solution would be the quick-release pseudo-axle mentioned by Matt Adams in one of his answers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked, but with the following caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mono-wheel trailers have two axles, one vertical to allow cornering, and one horizontal to allow going over small obstacles. The vertical should face the bike, and the horizontal should face the trailer. Since with a towed bicycle it is the opposite, there is a terrible trend for the trailer to fall to the side on curves (the rear of the bike spins around the headset, then the whole trailer falls to its side - to the back of the bike - spinning around the front axle);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Without the weight of the tiny rider, the bike has a annoying and sometimes dangerous tendency to jump. Sometimes, the whole setup becomes a bit wobbly, and the steering becomes a bit unstable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is worth the effort, specially if you use the pseudo-axle instead of just tying the front wheel directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bottom line, while in traffic I found the transition from the child-seat to the tandem (6-7 years old) and then to the own bike (9-10) ideal, instead of going straight to the own bike. My kid is ten and just now he can safely navigate in light traffic, always under my direct supervision. Of course it depends on each case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T16:35:58.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8221" CreationDate="2012-02-24T16:40:51.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could add two 2.5mm spacers on each side, or even on the same side (or one 5mm spacer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add to one side, you could even correct some perceived/subjective asymmetry, be it with chainline or with wheel dishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not impossible, if you use the wheel without spacers, that the dropouts get marked by the axle nuts, due to the slight twisting that will probably appear. Anyway, as others pointed, most probably that would not seriously damage anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(More &quot;anyway&quot; yet, I would try the spacers first ;oP )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T16:40:51.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8226" CreationDate="2012-02-24T17:06:01.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Brazil too (Porto Alegre), and I would adivise you to use only roads with wide shoulders (&quot;acostamento&quot;) or avenues. Unfortunately, as the vehicles' size (trucks, buses) get bigger than the lanes, biker safety tends to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important device I installed in my life is a big helmet-mounted rear-mirror. It took me two weeks to automate it's use, and another six months to cope with the anxiety of looking all those vehicles coming &quot;straight&quot; after me, something I didn't care so much while I was not able to actually see it. Now I've &quot;mastered&quot; its use, I almost nothing look behind turning the head. But sometimes I look more to the mirror than to the way ahead... VERY useful and HIGHLY recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the faster you ride, the safer you are, specially on saturated/near-congested traffic, because you can choose your lane positioning without tempting the rear drivers to overtake you. So, it's worth to invest on a relatively light bike, with relatively narrow/hi-pressure/slick tires, and a pair of strong legs :o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, like Guilherme Santos said, things are getting better, slowly. At the same time, unfortunately, dead cyclist news are not uncommon. But, what choice one has but to ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T17:06:01.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8226" CreationDate="2012-02-24T17:48:51.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding here (Vancouver, Canada) in the city is quite different from what you're talking about (i.e. no highways and &quot;high-traffic roads&quot; would be the main arterial streets), but I still thought I'd chime in... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I avoid heavy traffic whenever possible.  I don't consider the amount of time I'd would save by riding on a major street to be worth the risk.  I find it much more pleasant to ride on a quiet side-street than a busy road.  There's probably more risk of a car blasting through an intersection on an side street, but on the other hand I can hear them coming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T17:48:51.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8243" CreationDate="2012-02-24T19:23:50.843" Score="118" ViewCount="58679" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once I was riding my road bike down a rural road. I heard barking over my shoulder and saw two dobermans running toward me. I can't think of a time in my life that I felt more endangered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reacted instinctively and accelerated. Unfortunately I was on a gravel road and going into a bit of an incline. There was no way I could outrun those dogs. I looked back over my shoulder and they were no longer chasing me. The cycling gods must have been smiling on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another time, in a similar situation, a different dog ran along next to me, barking and baring its teeth. I maintained my speed and yelled at it (trying to assert some dominance) until it got tired of chasing me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two experiences have done a lot to put me off touring alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I deal with issues like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T22:33:24.320" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T16:48:41.653" Title="How do I deal with a dog chasing me when I'm touring?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;animal-attack&gt;&lt;animals&gt;" AnswerCount="32" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="35" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-24T20:14:42.003" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have a bike with a good pump peg, so that my frame pump would stay put without a strap.  When a dog got threatening I could reach down, grab the pump, and wave it at the dog.  From the dog's point of view it was black and menacing (even though the thing was actually all lightweight plastic and aluminum and couldn't hurt a flea) -- a mean dog knows what a stick is and will stay a respectable distance away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, my current bike has no peg, and I must use a strap to hold the pump in place.  Fortunately, I haven't had many run-ins with dogs of late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-02-24T20:23:26.767" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T20:23:26.767" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-24T20:42:50.110" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are on an unfamiliar route or completely surprised by an encounter with a chasing dog, you basically have two tried and true options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sprint Hard&lt;/strong&gt;: You will likely exit the dogs territorial boundary in just a few seconds (though it will feel a lot longer). Once outside their perceived territory they will give up the chase. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dismount&lt;/strong&gt;: If the animal is particularly aggressive and is right upon you, dismount, get your bike between you and the animal and back away slowly.  While doing this you can reach down and pick up rocks or gravel to throw.  Even if there aren't any rocks, just the action of bending over to pick something up and then the throwing motion is usually enough to startle a dog away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a known problem area, or an animal you encounter frequently you can pack a small water bottle with a fairly strong ammonia mix in it, and 'spray' the animal as it gets close.  It's unpleasant enough that after a few experiences with you the dog will normally leave you alone.  It's also a lot cheaper than mace, pepper spray, and won't disable you if you get hit by back spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T20:42:50.110" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-24T21:00:18.810" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the hard sprint doenst work, Pepper spray is small, compact and quickly deployed. Some say a simple water bottle squirt to the dogs face will do it, but i have had a few persistant strays. A half spray in the general direction is more than enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T21:00:18.810" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2012-02-24T21:37:02.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can now buy the Surly trailer wheels.  They are beautiful!  The hubs are only about 35mm wide!  Retail for $170 per wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3517" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T21:37:02.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8240" CreationDate="2012-02-25T00:12:41.653" Score="5" ViewCount="2126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=45858&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specialized 2010 Sirrus Sport&lt;/a&gt; with a sealed cartridge square taper bottom bracket that makes a clicking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't have it replaced, will I be harming anything apart from the bottom bracket itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3518" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T01:27:44.670" Title="Will I damage anything by not replacing my clicking bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8239" CreationDate="2012-02-25T01:27:44.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what's clicking.  If the bottom bracket itself is making the noise then no hurry to deal with it.  The bearing may be slowly failing but nothing else will be damaged and the bearing will probably give you plenty of warning before it fails completely -- if it ever does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the noise (and generally an accompanying sensation) is due to the crank arm slipping on the crank spindle then continuing to ride on the bike without tightening the crank bolt will quickly destroy both spindle and arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I get the impression that often cartridge BBs click because the cartridge is simply loose in the frame.  Tightening the cups may be all that's needed to silence it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Another thing to be aware of is that pedals often make a clicking noise, and it's difficult to distinguish this from BB noise.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T01:27:44.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-25T01:55:26.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was walking my mum's dog off-leash on a road, and another dog ran to attack her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was surprised by the attack, because the dogs there are normally trained to stay (and bark) on their own property, and never go onto the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, as it was running towards my dog to attack, it ignored me entirely: until I voiced a great big growl: at which it suddenly noticed me for the first time, and stopped. You're bigger than them. You have a right to be on the road. They'd have to be crazy to attack you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a saying (I think they say it about sportsmen):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;It's not the size of the dog in the fight: it's the size of the fight in the dog.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until I growled the other dog didn't realize that I was anything at all, didn't know I was even a player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not that dogs are cowards necessarily, but consider this: wolves hunt animals larger than themselves: sheep, deer, caribou. But I don't think you'll find them hunting bear (or man).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone advised me once, if you ever find yourself alone with wolves in the wild, don't run away in fear: because &lt;strong&gt;whether or not you run from them is how they decide whether you are prey&lt;/strong&gt;. Instead just continue to go about your business, and let them go about theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the amount of fight you have in you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Usually irrelevant. In my personal experience no dog (except puppies) has ever attacked any human, of any size, anywhere (dogs which are likely or able to, are instead restrained by their owners). Any dog which does attack a human is presumably executed, and their owner sanctioned.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;However when my dog was under attack, I had a moment to discover how big the fight was in me: and I found it was big enough to say so. In an emergency I'm extremely heavy, and strong enough to lift a dog. We're not that fast, cannot run: but an attack is suicide (unless you're running away, in which case you're no threat).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the city (in parks and on cycle trails) when off-leash dogs approach me, I slow down to avoid any risk of hitting them (as with children).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dogs run and bark. That's what they do. Enjoy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replies to comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Certainly dogs HAVE attacked (and sometimes killed) humans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's in answer to my, &quot;In my personal experience no dog has ever attacked any human&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, I've heard anecdotes from people who are afraid of dogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact there was one lady who I met for the first time, and among the first things she and her husband said was that she was afraid of dogs. The next morning all four of us were walking (on a wide footpath in a nature reserve around a lake), more of less line abreast. An unleashed dog showed up on the path ahead, coming towards us, and she ducked behind her husband: at which the damn dog made a bee-line straight for her, frightening her (and so us) more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've been attacked by strange dogs on two occasions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell you what you did wrong or anything. Unleashed K9s, trained attack dogs, might be off-topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main suggestions were only a) don't run b) communicate in a dog-appropriate way: things like, &quot;Oh hello&quot;, &quot;Actually I'm just going&quot;, &quot;You think I have a problem?&quot;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-02-25T18:57:17.977" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T18:57:17.977" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-25T02:58:42.857" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been chased by dogs countless times while riding solo or with a group. In all cases I have never been bitten. I may be wrong but in most cases the dogs just want to frighten you away. What works for me is not to panic, try and maintain a steady speed, and most importantly, make sure not to hit/run over the dog if it is coming towards you. Here is a pic of me and a buddy of an incident with 2 dogs 2 summers ago taken from a GoPro camera:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8O1jj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T02:58:42.857" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-25T04:43:04.933" Score="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh... where do I even start? I love dogs, I am crazy about them, too. I have 3 labs of my own. I am from a place where street dogs are very abundant. If you don't see any dogs in the next 100 yards, consider yourself lost! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am barked at often, chased often, even confronted sometimes. I used to run away before, because it is what a normal guy does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned a very big thing about dogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They chase wimps. It's like what a bully does, going after the weakest target. So, &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; you dare run when you are bullied. Take a bite instead but stand your ground. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They sense fear. If you are scared while approaching a dog, he is sure to suspect you and bark/chase you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They love challenges. If they think you are a worthy adversary they will confront you either to be protective or to see who is stronger in the area.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Me, for a guy, who was constantly afraid of dogs, was suddenly in charge, after learning a little of these dog psychology tips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Therefore, please believe me when I am saying this&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have never run away from a dog. (Unless I am very very late)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a dog is chasing me, I hit my brakes hard, and stare right at it. Mostly he will not come forward, and bark from a safer distance, kinda like maintaining a line. So I can finally get moving slowly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If dog is coming towards you even when you are standing ground. Get off your bike, show him &lt;em&gt;You are not going to wait around, when he is coming towards you&lt;/em&gt;. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Show them, you are ready. Call it like &quot;Bring it on&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After a stare down, &lt;strong&gt;do not&lt;/strong&gt; make a hasty move. (Got bit once by a shepherd this way.) Take it real slow. Be calm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suppose that, despite your confrontation, the dog is heading towards you, accepting the challenge. Still, you have a big weapon: &lt;strong&gt;Your Cycle&lt;/strong&gt;. Lift the front wheels high and start swinging it, right and left. That is sure to stop his pace to think a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a dog passes this point, and still heading towards you then you are in a serious point. Where there are only three things to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Surrender:&lt;/strong&gt; Another  psychology of dogs, if they pass that point, they are challenging you &lt;em&gt;head on&lt;/em&gt;. So, better lower your body, sit down. Let the dog be taller than you. Don't care about him, or look at him. Instead hook a headphone in your ear and listen to the music.  Music will calm your nerves down and send positive impulses for the dog to sense. Let him smell you. After few moments, just get up calmly grab your bike, start walking with it (but don't ride off) &lt;strong&gt;I have tried this so many times, its freaky but works&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Call for help: If the dog has an owner, (s)he may hear you if they are nearby. Or somebody might help you get out of this trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get ready to fight: When nothing works, better get yourself prepared for the fight. From my own experience, dogs love to tear limbs. If they grab your limb, you just feel helpless. Avoid this&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;more on fight situation ....&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget its an animal. Could be your last fight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pepper spray is handy as well if it comes to a fight - it's also useful for any muggers that might try for your wallet :) &lt;sup&gt;@Credit: Nate Koppenhaver&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Protect your &lt;code&gt;neck&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;hands&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;calf muscles&lt;/code&gt; at all cost. If they are hurt you have very slim of escaping.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be defensive, rather than offensive:&lt;/strong&gt; Let him make the first move and on retaliation you can do whatever you want. Effective targets are &lt;code&gt;nose&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;eyes&lt;/code&gt; they will buy you a lot of time and you can make a run for it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are lucky try to find a long stick. &lt;strong&gt;They are greatest weapons against dogs&lt;/strong&gt;. Don't hit them. Just point it right at them and show them you will do it. Even a mini pump works, if you find nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't let him corner you, keep the motion going, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Normally when this happens, me and dog are generally circling each other&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make a little cage out of your bike. When you are cornered, this just might save your life.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grabbing tail, makes him more angry, try to avoid that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grappling is only safe on the back of its neck. He can reach every other part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to avoid all this?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dogs are very friendly creatures, you can be friends with them, no matter what. Treat them with respect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't give them any reason to confront you.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If speed is the problem, &lt;code&gt;slow down&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If big size is the problem &lt;code&gt;get off your bike&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If he suspects you. Let him smell you. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friendly look, with lovely hello, calms most of domestic dogs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you see a dog that is sure to bark on you, &lt;strong&gt;change your approach&lt;/strong&gt;. Get off your bike, start walking with it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the dog has a owner, better complain to them to have better control. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Report to the law, if owner is not helping you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pack some treats, they are better as friends than adversaries. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BIGGEST SUGGESTION&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not scare a dog and run away. They become &lt;strong&gt;enemy for life&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: &lt;strong&gt;Rabid Dogs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting into a fighting situation with a rabid dog, is more harmful than it should be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my little story:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One of my friend got into a similar situation with me, on a village cycle trip. A rabid dog was being chased by locals &lt;sub&gt;(its not abnormal here)&lt;/sub&gt; and the dog out of fright ended up attacking us. My friend was a pretty agile cyclist, he immediately changed to defense position with his bike covering his entire body stopping the first attack. But, at a moment when dog was jumping at us, he used his elbow to hit the dog, but it bit him very badly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very torturous and painful moment we were in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Worst part &lt;em&gt;than the wound was the &lt;strong&gt;infection&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I suggest full &lt;strong&gt;defence&lt;/strong&gt; no offence as much as possible, but if you are a fighter/ Martial Arts Expert or &lt;strong&gt;know how to protect yourself very well&lt;/strong&gt;, then yes, &lt;code&gt;sick dog are very easy to knock down&lt;/code&gt; just aim for the &lt;strong&gt;nose&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="34306" LastEditDate="2018-09-15T05:31:07.333" LastActivityDate="2018-09-15T05:31:07.333" CommentCount="22" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8224" CreationDate="2012-02-25T04:57:56.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The HG-50 is a &lt;em&gt;cassette&lt;/em&gt;, not a &lt;em&gt;freewheel&lt;/em&gt;. The freewheel is a part of the hub, and normally you never have to remove it. (On old bikes, the cassette and the freewheel came as one unit, and screwed onto the hub body. Nobody makes them like that anymore.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the Park Tools link that Daniel gave you. Go about halfway down to &quot;Cassette Cog Lockring Removal and Installation&quot; - it should tell you everything. You'll need a lockring tool to unscrew the lockring, a wrench to hold the lockring tool, and a chainwhip to hold the cogs and keep them from spinning as you're loosening the lockring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T04:57:56.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-25T07:18:10.993" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;We always had a big dog in the house when I was growing up and I wrestled with them enough over the years that I'm not afraid of any dog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Starx said, they are more likely to go after you if they think you're afraid.  Whenever I encounter an aggressive dog, I'm immediately much more aggressive in return: glaring, threatening (&quot;you lookin' at me?&quot;), getting into a fighting position, picking up something to hit the dog with if necessary...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gary Ray mentioned putting the bike between you and the dog, I've done that and then &lt;em&gt;picked up the bike&lt;/em&gt; and waved it threateningly in the dog's direction.  Right hand on the seat tube just under the seat, left hand on the bars and held close to my body, and ready to hit the dog's head with the freewheel/rack/rear wheel if it charges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience &quot;fighting&quot; with dogs (more than play, but not a real kill-or-be-killed situation), if a dog really did attack me and I had anything at all to protect my arm a bit, I'd make a fist and try to shove it down the dogs throat.  I've seen the gag reflex in a dog make it back off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T07:18:10.993" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-25T11:42:03.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you know you might encounter dogs, carry a small packet or two of plain biscuits ( as in Commonwealth English or called cookie/cracker in the United States. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GoHB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Rich_tea2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image&lt;/a&gt; Attribution: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;English Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; user &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Leevclarke&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leevclarke&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the dog does not let up in few seconds, continue cycling/walking and keep throwing a biscuit at a time in front of the dog. This will usually distract the dog till you are out of its territory. Usually 2 or 3 biscuits will do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, most dogs don't go for flavored biscuits like&#xA;jam/chocolate/cream/salt or surprisingly, even milk biscuits. Basic&#xA;plain or sweet biscuits are best.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't break up the biscuit into pieces, the bigger the piece, more&lt;br&gt;&#xA;time it will take for a dog to break and chew it!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, even if the same dog chases you, it won't be to bite. It will probably be wagging its tail on seeing you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;btw, at the end of your cycling, if you have any biscuits left in an open packet, you get to have them for yourself ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia : &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biscuit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Biscuit&lt;/a&gt;: &#xA;In Commonwealth English, it is a small and hard, often sweet, baked product that would be called either a cookie or a cracker in the United States&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3521" LastEditorUserId="3521" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T22:31:51.993" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T22:31:51.993" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-25T15:12:19.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it is really the correct answer to carry some biscuits for nasty dogs running at you, from the point of view of the betterment of human civilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roads are public commodities and should be safe for cyclists and pedestrians. There are enough other dangers, let's not allow this easily avoidable one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest to forbid un-attached dangerous dogs on the roads, and one should report to the police any issue. Actually, I think it is the case in France: you may be barked at, but from the inside of gardens, and there is no danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, oh, I love dogs, I love well-educated dogs that listen to their owners and don't bark randomly to strangers (but will bark violently to thieves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists, pedestrians, humans, don't surrender: don't let the Dark Ages come over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3523" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T15:12:19.450" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-25T16:47:48.013" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carry easily accessible dog snacks in your carry pouch. Dogs prioritize by food &gt; sex &gt; aggression. You only need to take care of #3 by implementing #1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3526" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T16:47:48.013" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2012-02-25T20:29:01.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, roof racks are the best. They are strong, they can carry quite a lot, and they hold everything out of the way. I have a roof rack on my Mazda 6 wagon and carry bikes, skis, kayaks, and plenty of other stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it best to get a vehicle with the factory rails,  then get Yakima/Thule towers and crossbars. Few sedans have factory rails, but many SUVs, vans, and wagons do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big downside with the roof is you must make sure everything is off before you pull into the garage, unless you enjoy the crunch sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T20:29:01.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-26T04:35:40.450" Score="6" ViewCount="5154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have watched many video clips on YouTube on this topic. Also, seen couple of pros do it without clipped pedals. But I just cannot lift the back tire up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you hook your feet on to the pedals and pull it up? The pedal slips and i always end up getting an seriously blow to the knee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2019-08-08T15:54:35.533" Title="Learning to bunny hop on a MTB" Tags="&lt;skills&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-26T05:08:53.850" Score="2" ViewCount="1774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 20&quot; Lotus Explorer for $200. The frame is Tange CR-MO and has Shimano components, the bike shop guy said it was a good frame. I don't know a lot about bikes; I'm just looking for a bike to get back and forth to school. Also theres a sticker on the fork that says &quot;CR-MO uni-lite plus&quot;. He also switched it to single-speed and put new tires on it for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any information about Lotus bikes would be helpful because I can't find much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3529" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-02-26T16:12:14.387" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T14:51:37.033" Title="Information about Lotus Explorer bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8252" CreationDate="2012-02-26T08:57:09.747" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trick is to remember how pedals are designed to grip.  Decent pedals should grip your foot from going forwards or backwards, as well as obviously holding your weight.  The only direction they don't grip is upwards away from the pedal.  The trick is to rotate the pedal so that it's allows you to grip in the direction you want.  You rotate your feet towards 45 degrees and you will be able to actually grip your pedals to pull up the back end of the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind how the pedals grip and you shouldn't go far wrong.  Assuming you've dipped the front of your foot the action you need is effectively pushing backwards and upwards at the same time to lift your rear wheel.  Don't dip it so much that you end up going off the front of the pedal though.  The backwards push should keep you gripped on the pedal while the upwards action lifts the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said, there are plenty of videos out there.  This one explains it in a way that roughly matches how I figured out how to do it.  The relevant part is about 2:10 in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/video/2011/feb/21/danny-macaskill-video&quot;&gt;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/video/2011/feb/21/danny-macaskill-video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T08:57:09.747" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8252" CreationDate="2012-02-26T09:00:22.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I do it with clip-in pedals like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano_Pedaling_Dynamics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano_Pedaling_Dynamics&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;There is a part on your shoe that clips into the pedal and thus sticks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3530" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T09:00:22.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8253" CreationDate="2012-02-26T13:31:39.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.socalmtb.com/messages/road/messages/1662.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lotus Bicycles is/was based in Pennsylvania:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Last known mailing address/telephone number below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lotus Bicycles Post Office Box 21924 Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania&#xA;  18002-1924&#xA;  +800-841-0123 Founded in 1979&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They had a website in 2000 : www.lotusbike.com but it is no longer&#xA;  registered/active. They manufactured bicycles &amp;amp; frames for road &amp;amp;&#xA;  track use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I read it used to be a pretty good brand -- what one might buy if they were a dedicated amateur rider but not uber-rich.  But apparently they never made it out of the early 90s, when frame-building technology changed (and it became impossible to compete on price with the larger automated manufacturers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a web site on them:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintagelotusbicycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vintagelotusbicycles.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T13:31:39.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2012-02-26T16:10:42.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once did what you're considering - I chose one vehicle over another primarily because the latter wouldn't take a roof rack.  In hindsight, it may have been the right choice, but I was also unhappy with the result.  I was choosing between two small four-door sedans, and in both cases the rack required extenders to reach far enough back for mounting the trays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of vehicle, you should ask yourself a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will you be able to easily reach the racks, especially towards the center?&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;e.g.&lt;/em&gt;, atop a mini- or full-size van)  I once owned a large minivan that carried 7 bikes, and I really wished I had (and could transport) a rail-mountable ladder :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will the bikes hang too far behind the rear bar?&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;e.g.&lt;/em&gt;, atop a small sedan or coupe)  If so, the rack may encounter excess stress from vertical motion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will vehicle even accept the rack you have?&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;e.g.&lt;/em&gt;, a first-model-year vehicle like the Saturn I was considering)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will the rack or bikes damage the vehicle?&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;e.g.&lt;/em&gt;, abrasion effects on metal and paint)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I used various components of a Yakima rack system across several SUVs, a large minivan, and a small sedan, for 15 years or so.  Today, I have a hitch-receiver rack mounted on the rear of a Jeep Cherokee, and it carries 4 bikes nicely and safely.  But I still like roof racks :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1679" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T16:10:42.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8259" CreationDate="2012-02-26T16:50:21.220" Score="1" ViewCount="4838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mongoose otero elite 2008 and the crankset is broke (wobbling) It's also bent, so time for a new one. I currently have a nice shimano deore crankset from an old bike, but it uses a different kind of bottom bracket (holllowtech) where as on my bike I have an octalink BB. Can I remove the octalink and buy a hollowtech BB to fit the deore crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the spec says I have a Shimano ES25 Octalink BB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T23:42:54.767" Title="Will a hollowtech shimano BB fit a bike which currently has an octalink bracket?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8258" CreationDate="2012-02-26T17:04:34.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bikes themselves - in this case, the frame - are pretty much standard on all the modern mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Hollowtech and Octalink systems are different because you need to match the crankset to the bottom bracket, that is, you cannot use the BB from one system with the crankset from other system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But any of the bottom brackets can be installed in the same type of frame (the &quot;default&quot;/ISO 68mm wide, 1.37in diameter, 24 TPI).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-02-26T23:42:54.767" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T23:42:54.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8258" CreationDate="2012-02-26T20:16:23.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really only have 3 variables -- the width of the BB shell, it's diameter, and the threading.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge the diameter is pretty much standard these days (though no doubt some fancy-smancy bike are outside the box), and there are only a couple of standard widths.  And last I heard (which was about 10 years ago) only some Italian brands persisted in using oddball threading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the main thing to check is shell width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T20:16:23.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8265" CreationDate="2012-02-26T20:46:31.493" Score="1" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;21 speed commuter bike. Raleigh 2011 brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my gear shifter cable was broken, I took it into the shop to get it fixed. (4 days ago). Ever since, when shifting, it takes forever to actually shift and often does quite 'violently'. Shifting way past the trouble gears (past where I can currently handle) or way lower solves the problem. But that's not a good solution obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything that I can do to fix this problem? What did they mess up at the bike store? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3504" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T22:01:32.210" Title="Bicycle is Having a hard time Shifting -- especially gears 13 and 14" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8263" CreationDate="2012-02-26T21:08:57.143" Score="16" ViewCount="63618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a kryptonite U lock and lately it's been sticking a lot while trying to turn the key. Usually I can eventually get the key turned. It was getting worse though and a few days ago I (unable to find any lube/wd-40 etc) cleaned it out with soap and water which seemed to help a great deal. I also started being very careful to make sure the little key-hole guard engaged. Last night when I was totally unable to get my bicycle unlocked and had to leave it there and walk home. The key would fit into the lock and turn half way and then stop. I'm going to go try and pick it up now, but I don't know the best way to try and make sure this doesn't keep happening. It's winter here and I wonder if that might have something to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I ended up at the hardware store and the guy there (who had built his own bike in his garage, conveniently) recommended jig-a-loo. This made the lock move really well but I still couldn't get it open. This is when I noticed that my key was twisted (From trying to force the lock probably). I flattened the key back in a clamp and was able eventually to unlock it, but I can't seem to lock it again, so I ordered new keys. I'll have to wait till they come to see if that solves anything or it's actually a problem with the lock...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit again: Some graphite and new keys seemed to do the trick!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="888" LastEditorUserId="888" LastEditDate="2012-05-17T03:32:26.087" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T18:52:32.107" Title="How to deal with lock that keeps jamming?" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2012-02-26T21:37:27.967" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can follow the advice in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/884/my-key-jammed-in-my-u-lock-how-can-i-unlock-break-it&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; to get your lock off, although my guess is that the lock was either damaged from washing it or water has frozen inside the lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get it off, if the lock is damaged, Kryptonite has a lifetime warrantee on their locks. I'd call them up and ask if they'll replace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T21:37:27.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8267" CreationDate="2012-02-26T21:51:00.977" Score="5" ViewCount="1818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of the MEC Roubaix tights, and noticed they don't have any padding.  Not a big deal for short rides, but... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you supposed to wear [spandex] shorts (with padding) underneath?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I went for a roadie group ride, and noticed they were all wearing tights (much thinner material), but under the spandex shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T06:57:57.140" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T03:29:01.920" Title="Tights, Shorts, and Padding" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;spandex&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8261" CreationDate="2012-02-26T22:01:32.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cable needs adjusting.  A new cable will tend to stretch and go out of adjustment, so they should provide a free adjustment after replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T22:01:32.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2012-02-26T22:07:10.083" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing to use in locks is TriFlow (Teflon spray lube).  Though you can use a bit of WD40 first to clear out any sticky gunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Washing with soap and water was probably not the best approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T22:07:10.083" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8264" CreationDate="2012-02-26T22:43:24.420" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;padding&quot; AKA chamois is a vital guard against chafing-related injuries for anyone who intends to ride appreciable miles on a bike, and I would highly recommend wearing some garment with a chamois for any ride you do.  For cold weather riding when simple shorts do not suffice, there are a number of different options.  You can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wear proper cycling shorts under your chamois-free tights.  This provides you with an additional layer of warmth without sacrificing the protection a chamois provides.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy leg warmers to complement your cycling shorts.  Leg warmers are just an insulated sleeve that goes over your leg and runs from the ankle to just below the crotch.  When you say you spotted other cyclists wearing tights under their shorts, it is much more likely that they were only wearing leg warmers.  This provides them with the added leg protection, without a layer of material in between their body and the chamois.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy tights with a chamois.  These are designed to fully replace your shorts, rather than complement them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding any extended distances without a chamois is ill-advised because of the numerous health complications (that's a very bad part of the body to develop open sores), and when you do wear a chamois, it should always be the innermost layer, adjacent to the skin.  Whatever else you wear to keep your legs warm just depends on your budget, the temperature, and what you find comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T22:43:24.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8296" CreationDate="2012-02-26T23:02:01.450" Score="1" ViewCount="1121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have decided to buy new wheels for this season. I'm currently riding the Bontrager Race Lite wheels that came with my bike, and now it's time to move to aero wheels to keep up. I'll do about 1300 km of racing this season (approx. 800 miles) where the longest is 540 km (approx. 335 miles), thus I will need good wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at different wheel sets and considered price, quality and function. I think it has come down to these, but feel free to add anything you miss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zipp Firecrest 404/808&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FFWD F4R/F6R&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mavic Cosmic Carbon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mad Fiber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although some of the wheels above is slightly too expensive, I think they are worth mentioning for the comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a good all round wheel, would you go for taller (&gt;58mm), or lower (&amp;lt;40mm) rims?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the price difference from FFWD to Zipp or even Mad Fibre worth it in a TTT race over a long distance with an average pace of circa 35 km/h / 22 mph?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When spending this much on a set of wheels: Clincher, which I'm currently riding, or tubular?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be appreciated, and personal experience would be highly regarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: In the end, i bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unaas.no/hjul/landevei/cs-50-clincher/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unaas CS-50&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T11:21:43.280" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T15:13:21.700" Title="Advice on aero wheels" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2012-02-27T00:20:11.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to an automotive supply store and ask for lock deicer.It will melt any ice and lubricate the lock.Spray it in the key opening and rotate the key back and forth,try this several times applying more torque each time.It might help to let it sit awhile between applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T00:20:11.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8264" CreationDate="2012-02-27T01:09:20.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar tights from MEC which I mostly use for commuting and also a thinner MEC spandex tights which I pair with a Patagonia polypro inner layer which I wear when riding the road bike (group or solo). In both cases, I wear spandex shorts outside the tights. The shorts I use in such cases are those with the thinnest chammy. Why do I wear the shorts outside? Mainly because it protects the tights from chaffing/runs. I noticed the material used for the tights are not as robust as those of the cycling shorts. When temps go north of 0 C, I stop using tights altogether and start using leg warmers... much easier to get into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T01:09:20.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8463" CreationDate="2012-02-27T03:38:29.000" Score="0" ViewCount="1641" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I read from some websites, it sells taiwanese carbon wheelset,&#xA;How is the quality of the carbon rim, spokes and hub from those wheelset made in taiwan ?&#xA;I didn't see any brand name, so it's blank name,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spesification :&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Size       :700C full carbon wheels 20mm deep in clincher&lt;br&gt;&#xA;type       : road bicycle wheelset&lt;br&gt;&#xA;material : 100% carbon fiber&lt;br&gt;&#xA;finish:     3k clear coating finish&lt;br&gt;&#xA;cassete body:  shimano 8/9/10 speed or campagnolo 10/11 speed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hub      : Novatec hub A271SB/F372SB,sealed bearings,front 2,rear 4&#xA;               (black/red/white colors are available)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Nipple: aluminium (black/red/silver colors are available)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Spoke : mac aero 494 spoke from cnspoke from taiwan(black)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;hole :Front 20H   Rear 24H, special hole also can be ordered&lt;br&gt;&#xA;weight:  1430g +/- 30g each pair&lt;br&gt;&#xA;including Skewers and brake pads&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="3189" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T02:10:52.510" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T03:26:29.037" Title="How is the quality of carbon wheelset from taiwan?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8224" CreationDate="2012-02-27T03:40:42.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need a sprocket chain whip for holding it and a tool for opening the sprocket lock ring...it's very easy job with the proper tool...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T03:40:42.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8090" CreationDate="2012-02-27T03:58:35.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the carbon gripping stuff does not work. Try a collar with two bolts. These are typically used for mountain bikes. Obviously you need to ensure it is the correct size for your frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem mating my carbon cyclocross frame to my carbon seat-post. Carbon gripping compound helped and seemed like the solution, but when it mattered (that is during the race) the seat-post slipped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2839" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T03:58:35.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8276" CreationDate="2012-02-27T07:26:52.707" Score="1" ViewCount="623" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recetly I spotted Kona Asphalt Commuter, one of this series here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/asphalt_commuter.cfm?content=dew_plus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.konaworld.com/asphalt_commuter.cfm?content=dew_plus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why such bike is so special for me -- because right from the shop I could have all things I want in my dream bike, namely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hardtail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fork w/o suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;normal rear derailleur (i.e. just like in MTB bikes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disc brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And big wheels (this I am not sure about because I didn't ride on 28&amp;quot; wheels, so I don't know if they will be good for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I googled, and so far I found another manufacturer making similar bikes -- Trek 7.3 FX Disc:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_3_fx_disc/#/us/en/model/features?url=us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_3_fx_disc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_3_fx_disc/#/us/en/model/features?url=us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_3_fx_disc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other bikes currently manufactured with those &lt;strong&gt;four&lt;/strong&gt; features? This is essential because when buying new bike I wouldn't like to modify it right from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I rephrase: I am looking for a bike which looks and feels MTB, but it is designed for speed while commuting in &lt;strong&gt;the city&lt;/strong&gt;. So normal road bikes are no-go, typical city bikes and also bikes with suspensions (even in a seatpost).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Little update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More bikes -- Scott with SUB series, and Merida with Speeder (just one model here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T04:28:44.177" Title="If not Kona Asphalt Commuter then what?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8275" CreationDate="2012-02-27T07:52:12.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sort of bike is generally called a hybrid/commuter in the UK (and I think it may be similar in the US).  There are plenty of other manufacturers.  Not all hybrids will meet your requirements but there will be quite a few that do.  You can almost certainly find one with 26&quot; wheels if you prefer too.  I personally find the larger wheels good though, so I would recommend you simply go for a test ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with finding them is really a lack of consistency with the terminology &#xA;across shops, countries and manufacturers.  There is also simply the problem that with so many different bike types and configurations bike shops will only stock a selection and your required bike may not be in that selection.  There is however a reasonably good chance if you can find one close in the shop that they will be able to order in the right configuration for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: tried to reflect confusing terminology a bit better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastEditorUserId="1131" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T16:31:51.220" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T16:31:51.220" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8253" CreationDate="2012-02-27T15:55:23.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Lotus Explorer was introduced in 1987 and is not a common bicycle. We do not know if the bicycle was offered past 1987, but by then Lotus as a bicycle company seems to have been winding down their production. 1988 versions of 1987 models are not common. Lotus was known more for their road bikes and it seems their BMX models and some of their ATB models are not found very often.  The first Lotus ATB was the Pegasus introduced around 1983-ish, then they added the more affordable Viking to the line by 1986.  In 1987 Lotus jumped to 6 ATB models, the Pegasus, Cherokee, Viking, Explorer, Express and Commuter (listed from the top of the line to entry level). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Explorer had a suggested price of $359.95 in 1987 and came in Crimson and Forest Green.  Lotus advertised the bike as &quot;moderately priced with true off-road designing and componentry&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bicycle also featured 2&quot; tires, oversized Cro/Mo tubing and 15-speed gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think $200.00 was an okay price to pay for the bike and it should suit your needs well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tim, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.VintageLOTUSbicycles.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.VintageLOTUSbicycles.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T15:55:23.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8282" CreationDate="2012-02-27T16:18:18.870" Score="14" ViewCount="2853" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a good way to not have my hands/fingers freeze on bike rides in the cold/wind? I have a pair of gloves, but it doesn't fix the issue. Is there a better way than just to get a really thick pair of gloves that will be unwieldy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T20:32:34.193" Title="Cold hands due to cold/wind" Tags="&lt;wind&gt;&lt;coolweather&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2012-02-27T16:44:09.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you check any local outdoor retailer(basspro shop,cabellas,ems,dicks sporting goods) etc.They sell chemical hand warmers.They are basically a pouch filled with iron filings that heats as the pouch is exposed to the air.They will last about 10 hours(ride to work and ride home time for most of us).They cost about one dollar US. Place the pouch on the back of your hand as that is where the blood vessels are.If you are commuting and the ride is fairly short try preheating your gloves on a heater before you leave.Another suggestion from a skier buddy of mine is to apply muscle rub to your hands. I would use the odorless variety,it stimulates the circulation increases blood flow and keeps your hands or feet warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T16:44:09.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2012-02-27T16:46:42.833" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for gloves made with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.windstopper.com/&quot;&gt;Windstopper&lt;/a&gt; material. I have some pretty thin gloves made with this and stay warmer then my thicker gloves because they stop the wind so well. You may want to look at lighter weight running gloves made with this as I find them a little more pliable. Most I have seen are not waterproof though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T16:46:42.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2012-02-27T16:47:09.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably you are looking for bar mitts (pogies). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HOWEVER&lt;/strong&gt; -- until recently I wanted to buy them, 4 months ago I had a nasty accident in comfortable conditions, just pure bad luck, that's all. From that point on I said &quot;no&quot; to any device that attaches me to the bicycle -- the reason is, in case of accident it is a split of the second, when you can fall on the ground and roll away, if you are attached you hit with entire force, and such static hit is too dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting back to gloves, since I have the same problem, I ended up with two gloves -- thin one, internal, and second one, lobster type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T16:47:09.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2012-02-27T16:49:54.980" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to make sure your core temperature is high enough.  As your body begins to chill, it pulls blood away from the extremities, to maintain its core temp.  Often times cyclists will think &quot;my core temperature feels fine, but my hands are cold&quot; so they think they need warmer gloves, when in reality they need another jacket/vest/jersey/base layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, remember body heat is generated in your torso, and has to be piped to your hands.  If, for example, you were riding with bare arms, and giant oven-mitt gloves, your hands would still get cold, because the blood would have lost too much of its heat before ever reaching your hands.  Again, long-sleeved jacket/jerseys, base layers, and arm warmers can all help significantly with keeping hands warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good gloves are important to keeping your hands warm, but they're just one part of the chain, and if any of the pieces are missing, not even the thickest, warmest gloves in the world will stop your hands from getting cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastEditorUserId="3458" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T18:11:45.897" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T18:11:45.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2012-02-27T16:51:15.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to try to get some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/Gloves/PRD~5019-300/mec-northstar-cycling-pogies-unisex.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pogies&lt;/a&gt;. These cover your hands and the bars, and can help a lot in keeping your hands warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T16:51:15.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8369" CreationDate="2012-02-27T16:53:27.953" Score="1" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have a 28&quot; tire with X width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question is&lt;/strong&gt; how to calculate the width for 26&quot; tire to get the same damping factor? I am looking only for solid solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I will assume that calculating it backwards is simple reformulating the equation.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Solid solution&quot; = &quot;I tried it, I know it, so I say it&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damping = it is like &quot;user experience&quot;, you ride and either it feels comfortable or not. After all I hit both kinds of obstacles, rails for example and holes in the street (Poland is famous because of them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires -- what I have in mind, is exactly the same tires, same manufacturer, same type, etc. Currently I use 26&quot; 2.35&quot; (Fat Frank and Super Moto) tires, and I am wondering (approximately) what 28&quot; tires would be the equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T13:44:07.683" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T20:07:35.057" Title="How to calculate width of 28&quot; tire to 26&quot; with constant damping factor?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8596" CreationDate="2012-02-27T16:59:42.517" Score="6" ViewCount="3277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want/need some pants for riding my bike to work. It is a 5 mile commute and I want something that is not padded and not baggy. What other things should I look for and what type of pants should I get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T17:57:18.297" Title="what to look for when buying bicycle pants" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2012-02-27T17:06:19.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been excellent answers already, and I agree with most of them, specially the physiology of Prototoast, the pros/cons pointed by Macias, and the windstopping need pointed by Glenn (+1 for them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used some gloves which were terrible, although thick, because they don't stop the wind. Thick knitted gloves are the perfect example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, in winter, I use a glove bought in a motorcycle store, which is quite similar to ski gloves: a nylon-like external layer, and a fleece-like internal layer. They are not so thick as ski ones, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to get used to the reduced motricity and sensibility, and most probably you will drop your keys when getting home, but with time even taking money bills from the wallet becomes relatively easy. But now my fingers get HOT while going fast to work in order to make the body warm. When I take the gloves off at the destination, no way I suffer from &quot;hard fingers&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the idea of mitts/pogies, I used them with motorcycle and they work very fine specially in rain, but since the handlebars on commuter bikes are already cluttered most times, and unlike motorcycle the hands get some warm blood from the body, I think these gloves are already fine on a bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T17:06:19.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8284" CreationDate="2012-02-27T17:18:28.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, dampening depends too much on non-dimensional factors. That makes very difficult to come with a formula that would work reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the width of the tire is a very important factor, and balloon tires always will dampen better than skinny ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the hardness of the carcass (be it the layers within or even the rubber hardness itself, or the thread pattern) plays such an important role that I think it counts more than the difference in diameter from 26 to 28 inch wheel sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden wide tires which were very bumpy and uncomfortable, and narrow ones that just made the harshness of the road disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, and this might help to formulate a real answer to your question, are you referring to the transversal dampening, where the tire's cross section counts a lot, or to the &lt;em&gt;longitudinal dampening&lt;/em&gt;, where the wheel diameter counts more - and which is responsible for &quot;rolling over&quot; obstacles being smoother on bigger wheels - ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T17:18:28.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2012-02-27T19:15:44.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no one pair of gloves that will solve this problem for all temperature ranges for all types/durations of riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very important to block the wind and provide insulation, but if you do that &quot;too well&quot; your hands will sweat and the moisture will subsequently increase heat transfer to the outside and your hands will get cold in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I do...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For cool temps (well above freezing): long finger &quot;track&quot; gloves, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giro.com/us_en/products/cycling-gloves/road/monaco-lf.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giro Monaco&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For cold temps (near freezing): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorebikewear.com/remote/Satellite/PROD_GWXENU?landingid=1208436857364R&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gore-tex gloves&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For very cold temps (well below freezing): I don't, but those that do use some combination of glove liner, insulating layer, wind shell, and neoprene &quot;handlebar cozy&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had once thought that &quot;lobster-style&quot; ski gloves would be the ultimate gloves for cycling at all cold temps, but I was bitterly proven wrong. Gloves like that work great the first half hour or so, but the moisture build-up eventually made my hands unbearably cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T19:15:44.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-02-27T19:25:24.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They should be elastic enough so that you can move your legs freely in all directions when you are trying them at the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Padding is very important, but some models can make it very uncomfortable out of the bike. Nowadays, there are some anatomical paddings which, instead of being made of a single patch of padding, are made of lots of geometrically shaped patches of padding of different materials. These work great. If you try a short at the shop and it feels uncomfortable, most probably it will remain uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stitches and sewings must not have sharp/stingy textures that might annoy you a lot while pedalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good quality usually is associated to larger price, and the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, you MUST try as many models you can at the shop. The most comfortable at the cabin most probably would be the best for your ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't buy one online or preorder, unless I had one identical already in use - and they may change the product without notice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T19:25:24.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-02-27T19:32:33.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally don't like the tighter/lycra biking pants, and prefer more all-purpose athletic gear--something I can efficiently bike in, but can also hike/climb/run/lounge in. The ideal happy medium I've found is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gramicci.com/shop/mens-pants-c-63_119.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gramicci&lt;/a&gt; pants. They're bomb-proof, breathe pretty well, have a slim enough cut not to be a chain-tangle risk, and they're really comfy. That said, they're a bit pricey to buy new. I'd recommend prowling thrift stores in hopes of getting lucky if you'd prefer not to spend the sticker price. I've found some good condition ones on resale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I linked to the men's pants section 'cause your username seemed male. I don't mean to stereotype/offend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T19:32:33.530" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-02-27T19:39:33.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet may be layers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with a bike short or tights (non chamois if thats your style), then layer on a wind / water resistent outdoor pant. Something you would find at high end outdoor retailer (REI, EMS, Etc.). Lots of options from northface, sierra, columbia, etc. They will have plenty to offer in terms of durability and slenderness in the legs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When its really cold a fleece tight, but as it warms up just a lycra tight, then maybe just lycra shorts should be good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T19:39:33.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8284" CreationDate="2012-02-27T19:43:05.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a very first &quot;thumb suck&quot; I'd guess your &quot;damping effect&quot; is roughly proportional to the &quot;footprint&quot;.  And that is controlled by air pressure and tire stiffness more than tire diameter/width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, as tire diameter goes up, pressure can reduce slightly for the same tire width and still maintain the same vertical compression (&quot;squat&quot;) of the tire.  Or, alternatively, the &quot;spot&quot; will become more oblong (in the direction of travel) for a given pressure as tire diameter increases.  But this effect is slight -- if you worked out the formula for a chord of a circle I'd guess it's only a few %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, another thing to think about is that the larger tire can span minor road imperfections better than the smaller one.  Though again the effect is slight given the small difference between the two sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T19:43:05.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2012-02-27T19:51:28.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, get some &quot;glove liners&quot;.  These are thin polypro gloves that go under other gloves, either regular cycling gloves or heaver winter gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They provide an extra layer of insulation, and, in addition, you can remove the outer gloves and leave on the glove liners while working on the bike -- they're thin enough that they don't interfere with dexterity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T19:51:28.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2012-02-27T19:56:30.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sharing own experience with several racks, either used as bought and even homemade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can divide them in three categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roof&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Trailer Hitch&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Trunk/Reardoor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Roof&lt;/b&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More adequate for small cars (i.e. not so tall) for reach issues. Also, they work better with lighter bikes (Road bikes, XC bikes or the like). I wouldn't fit a heavy DH bike in a roof rack, it's heavy to lift up to the roof. Also if the car is too tall, the operation is likely to get difficult. In My experience, the roof rack would work fine if the car's roof is at your shoulder's height, above that, it gets too difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two kinds: the ones that hold the whole bike or the ones that hold the bike by its fork. Either one has the advantage of easily accepting odd shaped bikes, as they usually have a rail in which the rear wheel fits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the whole bike type, they have a rail for the front wheel and a post that holds the bike upright. When sturdy enough they can handle heavy bikes like the DH ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork type requires you to remove the front wheel completely and put the fork in a hitch that has the same shape and dimensions as your wheel's axle. This of course works better if you have a quick release front axle, and along having to take your bike apart every time, you risk loosing axle nuts or springs. Also, you need the rack to have the adecuate hitch for your bike's front axle: road and XC hubs are different, All Mountain or DH bikes usually have thru axle type. However, they hold the bike very secure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A useful advantage of the roof rack is that it is unobtrusive for most doors, so you have full access to your car without having to remove bikes. Also, they can be left on vehicle as it doesn't increase overall length, so is not a problem for tight parking and other slow maneuver. (Unless under a low garage or bridge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other advantage is that they usually can accommodate more bikes than other types. For example, I used to fit 3 XC bikes on top of a small car without protruding outside the roof. Another example: the support cars in Tour d France...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Trailer Hitch&lt;/b&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better for bigger cars that are more likely to have adequate mounting points for the towing bar (what the hitch is bolted to), as this is the only mounting point unlike other rack types that have several mounting points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type is more likely to hold the bike by it's tires and have a post that holds the bike upright, so you don't have to disassemble the bike anytime just to transport it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are usually limited to three or four bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that they increase overall car length but can be left on vehicle. Also, in order to be sturdy enough they usually are heavy therefore difficult to install/remove by just one person. If they are too low they can hit the ground in certain situations. In some cars it will block the rear door, even when the bikes are not in the rack. Some can be folded up to be left in the vehicle when not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are very goo options for DH or AM bikes that use to be heavy, because this kind of rack does not require you to lift the bike too high. They are also useful for oddly shaped bikes, as most DH or XC frames can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Trunk/Reardoor&lt;/b&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therese light racks are easy to install/remove by one person, and are specially adequate for lighter bikes. Every maker of these will claim they are universally compatible with any car, however, this is not true, some are better for sedans, some for hatchbacks. For sedans they can interfere or damage a spoiler. For Hatchbacks they can interfere with rear window wiper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rack type is better suited for straight top tube bikes and  they can be hardly fitted with some full suspension bikes or any other bike that doesn't have a diamond shaped frame (there are temporary addaptors that are fitted between the seatpost and the stem post for this purpose.).&#xA;They also grab the bike by its frame, so they can damage paint and can also be an issue for carbon frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are usually limited to two or three bikes, and they better be light ones. Some people mount them in the hood too. (it funny to see a car with two bikes attached a each end)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't add too much to the overall length of the vehicle and can be left on when not in use. Most designs allow access to the trunk/rear door when bikes are not on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they fit too low can let bike hit the ground in certain circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a variety that fits attached to the rear mounted spare wheel, these are not compatible with harcovers for the spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Other Options&lt;/b&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options you may consider are pickup trucks which exist in many different sizes and you may find one that fit all your needs (besides bike transport) They offer huge flexibility and carry capacity. Personally this happens to be my most recent circumstance (did not acquire the pickup because of the bikes) but is also the most comfortable one. I can carry from just one bike up to seven plus driver, riders and gear (my pickup is medium sized, not one of the biggest).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option can be a small trailer for bike carrying. This can be fitted to almost any vehicle, as a bike towing trailer will not bear too much weight. However it may need to be custom made /installed and it is more complicated to drive a car with a trailer attached. Nonetheless, a custom made bike carrying trailer, if well designed, can be very comfortable to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally: Consider the type of bike you are going to carry, and your other needs (Me for example, use the car for bike carrying just 2 days a week). Ease of use of course will make your biking journeys more enjoyable, so, congratulations for considering it! ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T19:56:30.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-02-27T20:13:41.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not padded and not baggy? Ok, have you looked into cross-country ski wear? There are quite a few variations in cross country ski pant stylings and features. Some baggy, some not; but the main thing is that they're designed for athletic activity in cold, windy, and sometimes wet conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of clothing handles cold well, wind proof, and is more or less water resistant. Plus, cross country ski wear is designed for constant movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide that you actually do want padding, you can always add cycling shorts underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On the other hand... our regular bike messenger just walked in and out of here in skinny jeans... and he rides all day...'~)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any athletic pants are fine for the most part. And not sure as to why you are against padded cycling gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T02:30:32.300" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T02:30:32.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8268" CreationDate="2012-02-27T21:35:09.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Except for the steepest of hill climbs, aero wheels will almost always improve speed; however, the choice among race wheels will depend on the types of races you do, your strengths as a racer, how important small improvements in aerodynamic drag are to your goals, and the size of your bank account. For short individual time trials, .0025 m^2 savings in CdA (roughly, one-sixth the size of the difference between a very aerodynamic front trispoke wheel and a &quot;standard&quot; box rim) is worth 10 seconds in 40km and can mean the difference between standing on a podium or grinding your teeth on the long drive home. For citizen-level crit races where crashes are common, you may not want to risk expensive wheels unless your riding style is so dominant that you spend the entire race off the front and turn the crit into an ITT. For a long TTT like the Styrkeproven, aero wheels certainly won't hurt but the benefit of a deep set of rims may not be worth the cost if your team time is determined by the 10th rider to cross the line (in fact, in that case, a cheaper and potentially more effective strategy is to have everyone of the team use tight clothing and low rolling resistance tubes and tires). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purely from an aerodynamic drag point of view, several of the larger wheel manufacturers (such as Zipp or Hed) provide information on aerodynamic drag differences (in grams of drag &quot;force&quot;) between their various models and standard box rims. Most of these differences in grams &quot;force&quot; are measured at either 30 mph or 50 km/h. You'll want to convert this to the average speed you expect to maintain in your various types of races (the aero drag varies with the square of air speed) to make a rough estimate of the benefit you'll reap from switching to better rims. Exact calculations will depend on yaw angle but a handy rule of thumb is that a savings of 50 g of drag &quot;force&quot; at 40 km/h is roughly equivalent to a savings of 0.5 seconds/km at the same power output. Thus, the difference between a box rim and a trispoke front wheel could be around 1.5 sec/km, or about 1 minute in a 40km ITT. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T21:35:09.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2012-02-27T22:00:44.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Graphite is best, but is preventative.  Once it starts to jam up, you're not going to have much luck getting the graphite in there.  LPS Greaseless lubricant works well once you're at that point.  Avoid silicone lubes, they make a gooey sticky mess out of locks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T22:00:44.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8299" CreationDate="2012-02-27T22:24:02.780" Score="1" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canecreek.com/products/brakes-levers/brake-levers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cane Creek Drop V&lt;/a&gt; levers compatible with road brake cables or MTB brake cables? Specifically, road cables and MTB cables have different nipples that sit in the brake lever, and I need to know which type these work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have experience with these brakes? I've searched for awhile, and have yet to find any reference to cable compatibility whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T08:32:28.747" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T08:33:05.093" Title="Cane Creek Drop V cable compatibility" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8298" CreationDate="2012-02-27T23:02:21.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The website has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canecreek.com/resources/products/brakes-levers/manuals/Drop_V_Brake_Lever_Instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;drawings&lt;/a&gt; that show roadbike cable ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T08:33:05.093" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T08:33:05.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-28T00:15:10.867" Score="7" ViewCount="3628" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a cottered crank. Crank arms themselves don't seem to be bent. It is a non-cartridge style spindle. Any ideas as to why they are not lining up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFrVr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eFrVr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of the crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3540" LastEditorUserId="3540" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T23:14:51.780" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T23:14:51.780" Title="Crank arms are not parallel to each other. What could have caused this?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8300" CreationDate="2012-02-28T00:47:14.977" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like you said, they are cottered, what makes them aligned is that pin through a hole, which at the same time tightens the crank arm around the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you google &quot;cottered crank&quot;, you can see the spindle, which has a slot in each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hypothesis would be: or the cottering bold got deformed, or the spindle slot itself got deformed, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bolder hypothesis would be twisting of the spindle due to deformation or cracking, but most probably the bearings would not spin freely (how are the cranks spinning, by the way?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The side which appears on your photo looks OK from outside, the other side we cannot tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for sure this is a VERY irregular situation, which demand a full disassembly of the system, and absolutely no use before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T00:47:14.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8300" CreationDate="2012-02-28T01:25:42.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the photo I notice that the nut is missing,an indication that it has been worked on at some point. With the right side pedal in the 9 o'clock position the nut side of the pin will face up  verify that the leftarm pin has the nut on the bottom.Several size pins were used and it is possible that you have two different sizes.I have several cottered cranks and it seems that there is no standard as far as which direction the pin goes on which side but they are always facing in opposite directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T01:25:42.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-02-28T01:50:18.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For moderate weather all you need is comfortable shorts.  (Even if it seems a bit too cool out for shorts, once you get going you stay plenty warm.  Lots of heat is generated in the legs when you cycle.)  For a 5-mile haul gym shorts work fine, or you can get some spandex bike shorts.  But bike shorts aren't really needed for such a short ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In somewhat cooler weather I've done a fair amount of cycling with sweat pants pulled over cycle shorts or gym shorts.  You do need a leg strap, of course, but you need that for most types of pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, for seriously wet weather you need something different.  I have a pair of old Performance brand rain paints for that.  They can be worn alone (over shorts) or over the sweat pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For colder weather I have some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coldlizard.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Col'd Lizard Polartec tights&lt;/a&gt;.  I wear these over the shorts, and I'm generally good down to about 20F.  I also sometimes wear the tights when I'm operating the snow blower -- snow doesn't stick to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T03:23:01.457" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T03:23:01.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-02-28T03:24:38.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride in the conditions you describe (Toronto: not rainy now but it has been), except that my commute is 11 miles (18 km), and except that I don't change in the office (I wear what I bike and arrive in: people wear jeans and slacks in the office, it's not customer-facing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started this time last year, in jeans (Levi's). I found I did better with knee bandages worn underneath (my knees were weak), especially when &quot;sub-zero&quot; (i.e. below freezing, 32F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seats of my jeans wore through quickly. I then wore cotton shorts all summer and autumn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this fall (and into winter and now) I have been wearing two kinds of Rapha trousers (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rapha.cc/rapha-trousers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rapha.cc/rapha-trousers-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Features include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close fit and slim leg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not water-logging&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durable (e.g. the cut of the seat is reinforced like Jodhpurs are, but without that being visible or obstrusive).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say &quot;not water-logging&quot;, what I mean is that when I take them out of the washing machine they weigh little more than when I put them in: they don't repel or resist water, but they don't absorb it (compared with jeans, which become heavier when wet). Although they're slim-fitting they're comfortable to pedal in even when wet: they slide, they're a bit elastic, and they're durable enough that they don't care if you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fabric is 50% cotton, and 48% Nylon (the heavy jeans) or 48% Polyamide (the lighter sand-coloured slacks or &quot;khakis&quot;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T03:24:38.643" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8275" CreationDate="2012-02-28T04:28:44.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two: a &quot;Kona Dr Dew&quot;, and a &quot;Giant Seek 1&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They both have the larger-sized wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it difficult to find the same, except with with the smaller wheels and lighter: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/6379/1097&quot;&gt;Light-weight ladies bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I went around bike shops in the city, I found each specialized in a different range of bikes: e.g., neighbourhood bikes under $500; racers over $2000; etc. The shop I bought these from seems to stock several in the maybe $500 to $2000 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T04:28:44.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2012-02-28T05:06:24.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have flat bars, tearing a hole in the corner of a ziplog bag to place over the handlebar grip gives you a mighty cheap pogie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that fleece gloves, especially fleece flip-mits with polypro liners below them, can warm up very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand and foot warmth is highly dependent upon good circulation. Elastic around the wrists can make your hands &lt;em&gt;colder&lt;/em&gt; by constricting your circulation. Also, increasing your core temperature is a good way to keep you limbs warm as well...so adding a fleece vest under your windbreaker can also be rather effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wool long underwear is easily as effective as polypro long underwear and doesn't get a sweat funk as quickly, and I would suggest this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T05:06:24.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2012-02-28T05:54:37.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold hands? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ski patrol guys around here get cheap, thick, leather, insulated gloves at Target. (Or some other commodity department store.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're cheap and work for the winter. Of course, you can go for the nice cycling gloves. Several years back, Pearl Izumi had these wonderful winter cycling gloves. I wore out 2 pairs and when I went to buy a third pair, the model had been discontinued. So, I settled for another brand at the time. Cold hands for $50!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway later on, I was chatting with a fellow cyclist in the bike locker room at work and complaining about cold hands. He was using these insulated, leather, utility work gloves. He got the idea from the local ski patrollers. $15 later, I quit having cold hands on the commute. The key is to pick ones that offer adequate dexterity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T20:32:34.193" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T20:32:34.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2012-02-28T11:53:07.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option I don't yet see between the excellent answers above is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have fixed the wind issue you still lose a lot of heat in your hands through your handlebars. The rubber grip usually provides some insulation, but the metal of your handlebars is highly heat-conductive and constantly getting cooled by the entire bike. So in cold weather you are constantly holding on to a frozen stick that is very good at conducting heat away from your hands. Some additional padding on the handlebar side of things can greatly reduce that. Cork, or cork-like materials are very good at it. Unfortunately most options a know of are not very durable, so they'll only last a winter or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Windstopper gloves and better handlebar insulation keep my hands warm in subzero temperatures where just the gloves were not enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T11:53:07.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8310" CreationDate="2012-02-28T18:24:55.203" Score="4" ViewCount="1518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the official answer from Shimano is you can only use their quick link, but practically is it okay to use SRAM or KMC links?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I have the Shimano HG-40 chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T18:39:26.240" Title="Using non-Shimano link with Shimano chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;master-link&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8309" CreationDate="2012-02-28T18:39:26.240" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general a SRAM or KMC link for an 8 or 9 speed chain will work fine with a similar Shimano 8 or 9 speed chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are dealing with a 10 speed chain I believe you will run into a compatibility problem as one brand is sightly narrower than the other (I can't remember which way and I only deal personally with 9 speed or lower).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used a SRAM power link on a Shimano HG-40 for a while now with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T18:39:26.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8090" CreationDate="2012-02-28T18:45:46.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always go to a hardware store and get a stainless steel spiral screw hose clamp.  Wrap the post with a couple of wraps of rubber from an old inner tube, then apply the clamp, tight against the existing collar.  Tighten the heck out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always a risk you could crush a hollow post, I suppose, but once you get that thing on the post isn't going to slip down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T18:45:46.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8214" CreationDate="2012-02-28T19:15:54.933" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.followme-tandem.com/english/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FollowMe Tandem&lt;/a&gt; is the only commercial product that I've seen that does this effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a cheap solution but it likely carries high resale value. The unit is well made (I've installed several) and can be completely detached from the parent bike except for the mounts on the rear axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably get some good DIY ideas from their design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2370" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-04-27T15:46:22.473" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T15:46:22.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8314" CreationDate="2012-02-28T19:46:32.763" Score="14" ViewCount="7933" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a very strong point in bike-mechanics culture, which I've seen in very competent answers here, too, to apply one drop of lube in every single roller of a clean chain, and then (!very important!) to remove as much as possible the excess lube with a dry cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware a &quot;soaked in oil&quot; chain is bad, because grime sticks to it, lube is wasted, the chain &quot;irradiates&quot; dirty oil around (over the bike, trousers, socks, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also aware there could be a &quot;magical point&quot; where the chain is already lubed but not soaked yet, and that perhaps happens when you don't put so much oil, so as when you &quot;run&quot; a thin string of oil over the slowly spinning chain, instead of dripping a (whole) drop of lube in every roller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I'm aware too that oil outside the chain is pretty much useless, and the only part that MUST be lubed is unfortunately harder to reach - the inner surface of the inner-plate holes, where it spins around the chain pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question is: &quot;Is there anything really bad that happens to the drivetrain if you don't wipe excess lube immediately, or is it just a practical measure to make life easier (or something else)?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T01:53:25.237" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T19:24:07.530" Title="What's the point of removing the excess oil after lubing the chain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8313" CreationDate="2012-02-28T20:12:51.617" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The excess oil collects grit from the road, which acts as an abrasive that will wear out the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T20:12:51.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8313" CreationDate="2012-02-28T21:32:56.577" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the oil on the outside that collects dirt.  I generally over-oil the chain fairly substantially, using a slow drizzle as I crank the chain through several times, then wipe it well.  Wait a few minutes for some oil to ooze out and wipe again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others like to drip a single drop of oil on each link and do a little tap dance after every third link.  Whatever floats your boat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T21:32:56.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8316" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-28T22:41:45.367" Score="-2" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can get this bike for good price, bit I was wondering of the specs are &quot;okay&quot;?&#xA;And does anyone have any experience with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://f.cl.ly/items/172F11272A0G3A020K3x/img092.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;specs. sheet (image)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3549" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T22:01:14.053" Title="Specialized Sirrus specs any ok?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-29T00:17:18.430" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to call the police or animal control after the encounter.  In many (most?) places it is illegal to let a dog run loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one of my regular cycling routes there are two aggressive dogs that I sometimes meet together on an uphill grade.  Worse, it's a loop, and if they see me when I first go by, they will be waiting in the road as I come around.  So I usually dismount and use the bike as a shield.  They have never figured out how to get around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having had a heart to heart with the owner - he blamed his small kids for letting the dogs loose - pointing out the prevalence of coyotes around here has had some effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T00:17:18.430" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5331" CreationDate="2012-02-29T00:25:59.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A point worth noting is that your only example of a success in this field, Peugeot, started making bicycles in 1882, some years before their first cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3550" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T00:25:59.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8313" CreationDate="2012-02-29T00:30:16.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possible effect of over oiling without wiping the excess from the chain is the chain slinging oil onto the brake surface of the wheel.While this has no effect on the drive train it does effect brake performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T00:30:16.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5941" CreationDate="2012-02-29T00:58:28.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All mountain riding needs additional support than just what is listed above. I have used each item below for myself or more often, others during Tahoe back country rides:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A couple magic links for broken chains, used ones are fine for trail repair. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A rear derailleur hanger specific for your bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duct tape. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A cable, to replace the rear derailleur one trashed when the derailleur hanger breaks. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large bandaids. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Topo map and compass (or ones uploaded to your smartphone). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And, for the truly compulsive, a shock pump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3552" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T01:52:15.177" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T01:52:15.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-29T02:52:20.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love dogs and would never hurt an animal. I currently own a rescue dog who has some health problems but I took him in as if he was my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said I live in a rural area and a few years ago I had a regular route I liked to take and I would always pass this big farmhouse and I could hear dogs barking. I never thought much of it and one day I read in the paper that farmhouse was home to a pack of pitbulls. An elderly couple went for a walk and the dogs got out of the barn and mauled the couple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since then I bought bear spray from REI. It's more expensive than pepper spray and a heck of a lot more effective in that situation. In most cases a dog will eventually leave you alone I find but against a pack of pitbulls pepper spray is useless. It's a good idea to know the area you are touring in and if you aren't aware just make sure you have a good defense. &#xA;If you're being chased by a large enough dog hit him with the spray and keep moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3553" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T02:52:20.547" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2012-02-29T04:34:19.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you put water in there it's probably frozen. I would recommend lock de-icer because it's alchohol based. It will also lubricated (for a short time) but more importantly it will help flush anything out of the lock and then it any leftover liquid will just evaporate.&#xA;Then I would put graphite in it or something teflon based. NOT WD-40 that stuff sucks for locks. It can be used to clean it although a locksmith will tell you not to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go to a lock store or a local hardware store they might have a good suggestion but someone else mentioned sending it back on the lifetime warranty and that might be a good option for you as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3553" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T04:34:19.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8326" CreationDate="2012-02-29T05:32:21.327" Score="3" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of Velocity Deep V wheels (silver, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=87_172_173&amp;amp;products_id=903&amp;amp;zenid=4mk0n47nle9mhaks75c3r1vbu7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velo Mine&lt;/a&gt;) and have a roll of &lt;a href=&quot;http://bbbcycling.com/bike-parts/rim-tapes/BTI-98/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BBB BTI-98 16 mm tape&lt;/a&gt;. I tried to apply it today and the adhesive will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; stick to the rim. It just kept sliding. Moreover, the part of the tape that I attempted to apply to the rim no longer is as sticky as it was initially. What gives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T09:07:08.660" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T09:07:08.660" Title="I'm perplexed, why is my cloth rim tape not sticking?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-29T07:04:19.340" Score="3" ViewCount="13583" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Lithium-Grease-14-oz/16928006&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;general-purpose lithium grease&lt;/a&gt; on my chain until I can get some Finish Line lube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3554" LastEditorUserId="18562" LastEditDate="2017-03-05T21:44:33.683" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T19:59:38.887" Title="Alternative Chain Grease/Lube" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-03-10T14:14:10.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8324" CreationDate="2012-02-29T08:41:01.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had rim tape before that didn't stick to the rim, but did stick to itself - which is all that matters really.  As long as the rim tape won't separate from it's ends, it's doing it's job, plus the valve will stop it sliding around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T08:41:01.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8325" CreationDate="2012-02-29T12:15:26.367" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not ideal.  You need something that will penetrate &lt;em&gt;into&lt;/em&gt; the chain, and grease will not readily do that.  If your chain really needs lubing and you can't get any proper chain oil then plain old engine oil would be a better choice.  (&quot;Sewing machine oil&quot;/3-in-One oil would be a second choice, but it's probably a hair too &quot;light&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real bike maintenance nuts used to melt paraffin wax, beeswax, and kerosene together and soak their clean, dry chains in that.  This is essentially the lube applied at the factory.  But modern liquid chain lubes work as well with less trouble/mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T12:15:26.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8325" CreationDate="2012-02-29T12:18:49.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.The viscosity is high (too thick)to penatrate between the chain side plates all it will do is cause dirt and grit to stick to the chain and accelerate wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T12:18:49.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8252" CreationDate="2012-02-29T12:46:13.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are having problems lifting the back wheel then you can try practising it on it's own, without lifting the front wheel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start by riding at walking speed and getting into a low attack position (ie. standing on the pedals, knees bent, hips back, back flat, elbows out).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smoothly shift your weight backwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lunge forwards, pull with your arms and push your pedals back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hopefully your rear wheel will lift! Get your weight over the bars and let it rise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your have it dialled you can combine it with lifting the front wheel to hop. Breaking the hop down into two separate components also helps when you aren't carrying enough speed to clear an obstacle in one go - first you can lift the front wheel over, then you can lift the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend you check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leelikesbikes.com/hopping-the-dreaded-bucking-log.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;LeeLikesBikes&lt;/a&gt; for some great information and videos about hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd always recommend a good pair of flat pedals for learning skills like this - they force you to use good technique instead of 'cheating' by pulling the pedals up. If you can't bunnyhop on flat pedals you can't bunnyhop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T12:46:13.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-29T13:25:55.783" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rspca.org.uk/ImageLocator/LocateAsset?asset=document&amp;amp;assetId=1232721991678&amp;amp;mode=prd&quot;&gt;The Canine Aggression FAQs&lt;/a&gt; from the RSPCA has some useful general advice about aggressive dogs. If you encounter an aggressive dog while cycling it recommends the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are cycling, dismount and place the bike between you and the dog. This allows you to slowly wheel it far enough away to remount. Do not try to outpace the dog as this may encourage it to chase you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T13:25:55.783" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-29T14:21:18.767" Score="5" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Toronto bike show is this weekend. I've never been to it, in previous years, or to any other. Apart from what my LBS told me briefly about the show last year, and the show's web site, I don't know what to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the show is for consumers, LBSs, and manufacturers: I'm a consumer (I commute by bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycleshowtoronto.com/springshow.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Click to visit the Spring Show page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T17:33:45.053" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T01:19:32.893" Title="What should I do at, and what should I know about, bike shows?" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-29T14:25:10.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some advice that I read on how to deal with dogs from a textbook for a motorcycle class I took says to slow way down and then accelerate.  This works because apparently dogs are bad at math and it throws off their pursuit angle.  Not sure if this advice will work on a bicycle since it depends a bit on how the dog is coming for you and how fast you can pedal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never personally had enough time in this situation to employ that technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3547" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T14:25:10.077" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8389" CreationDate="2012-02-29T14:53:59.110" Score="6" ViewCount="2355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm over 30 and have just started cycling in real traffic, my first experience, as I have only ever ridden as a child in parks and such. I live in a university town in the state of Baden-Württemberg in Germany. Unfortunately, I have no clue about traffic signs as I neither drive nor hold a drivers license. Could someone recommend a place where I can learn about the traffic signs for cyclists, what they mean, the rules for cyclists, safe riding guidelines, etc? I have tried reading the legal rules, but my German is basic and those make my head hurt. Perhaps a site with photos of signs,simple language (either german or english)would be wonderful. I hope that all the cycling enthusiasts here can help me ride safely and correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3556" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T11:19:56.550" Title="Cycling traffic signs and rules in Germany" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;signals&gt;&lt;germany&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-02-29T15:20:08.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will say dependent on the weather:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet weather/cold: I wear padded cycling tights with a pair of shorts over the top for a bit of added comfort. I find once the legs get moving it's fine. If really cold, I'll wear a pair of knee length ski socks. This I find is a perfect mix between warm and breathable with the materials being water resistant. Great warmth without compromising  on flexibility or get clogged up with a number of layers.&#xA;Disadvantages: you will have bring a spare pair of pants/trousers along with you, but then again do you really want to wear wet clothes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry Weather: One thing I've found are pretty great skate jeans they usually have a lot of flexibility to them and a pretty close fit. Which is pretty much all I need from a cycle trouser. They may not be to everyone's style but if you plan on wearing Jeans I would say these are best of the off the shelf product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rapha trousers: These look pretty nice but seem to have a price tag to match, As I've not tried the product in person I would find it hard to comment especially when they have a price tag 3 times that of a stand pair of trousers. But would be willing to try if I could try a pair first from my local shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Check &lt;a href=&quot;http://us.levi.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11628402&amp;amp;clickid=prdsw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;these&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems the bicycling has now reached sub genre status!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastEditorUserId="3068" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T10:53:21.303" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T10:53:21.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-02-29T15:49:51.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Large dogs don't seem to be much of a problem, they usually don't seem to care about me when I'm cycling.  It's the little yippy dogs that like to chase.  They're pretty easy to outrun, so I just go ahead and do that.  They tend to give up real quick.  Large dogs I've always just slowed down to a walking pace and they've always lost interest at that point.  The plan has been to dismount and keep the bike between myself and them to fend them off while hopefully waiting for an owner to appear.  The plan of last resort is my handgun.  Unfortunately due to the laws in the area that I cycle, spray strong enough to affect animals (such as bear spray) and tasers are not legal (considered &quot;weapons&quot; of a type that there is no license available to carry them).  If you choose to carry &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt;, be sure to check your local laws, you may be surprised at what's prohibited!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T15:49:51.070" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8333" CreationDate="2012-02-29T17:52:37.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google &quot;german traffic signs&quot; and you'll get a number of good references for road signs, including some nice charts.  For instance: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gettingaroundgermany.info/zeichen.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gettingaroundgermany.info/zeichen.shtml&lt;/a&gt; . Of course, these aren't bike-specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T17:52:37.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8331" CreationDate="2012-02-29T21:43:20.047" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok. It's basically a trade show and exhibition. According to your link it appears to be typical of trade shows/exhibitions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;1. What should I do?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Walk around. Explore. Watch events. Shop for products of interest. Ogle bikes and collect brochures. And also, talk with manufacturers about things you find of interest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;2. What should I know about?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; It's not a test, so you probably don't need to know anything in particular. You might &quot;know&quot; about products that you're considering, but other than that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you'll get to see new bikes, new bicycling technologies, and new accessories. And, it appears that you'll get to watch some bmx and mtn bike events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last thing... Bring along a friend who is vacillating about taking up bicycling. There's nothing like pretty gizmos to get someone started. ;~) And things like this are usually way more fun when you have a friend along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T01:19:32.893" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T01:19:32.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2012-02-29T21:57:08.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If WD-40 or triflow or the like hasn't helped, and the lock is more than a year old, I'm going to guess the lock is fine, and your key is worn out. Try a spare key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T21:57:08.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8316" CreationDate="2012-02-29T22:01:14.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost every modern bike that retails for over $300 USD is &lt;em&gt;okay&lt;/em&gt;, in terms of parts spec. I've ridden and worked on sirruses (sirri?) and they don't seem particularly different from other bikes in the genre. Ride it, and if it feels good and the price is right, buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T22:01:14.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2012-02-29T22:16:29.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First. Squirt some lock &quot;de-icer&quot; in there. Insert the key and work it a bit. Redo if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second. Squirt some &quot;Liquid Wrench&quot; into the mechanism. Try a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, you'll need to think of cutting the lock in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line? After the de-icer and liquid wrench, your lock may be fantastic. If not, get a new lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T22:43:35.267" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T22:43:35.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2012-02-29T22:37:48.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Green Guru ( greengurugear.com ) takes tubes. If the store also sell the green guru gear they get a discount off the wholesale price and the will alternately pay for the shipping. They have a pretty good price point too. They will pick up anywhere in Colorado and have quite a few places to drop tubes in California and also in Minneapolis and near Charlotte, NC. I think they are in REI and MEC now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3560" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T22:37:48.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8331" CreationDate="2012-03-01T01:56:56.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason people go to these bike shows is to look for bargains. If you intend to go, bring a list of bicycle stuff related items (tires, wheels, pedals, saddles, etc.) along with their going range of prices on the web and at bike stores. Compare the prices in the bike show to those in your list and if it looks like you found a bargain then go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T01:56:56.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8325" CreationDate="2012-03-01T04:25:23.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grease shoudn't be applied, because it does not naturally flow to the inside of the chain due to its visco-plastic behaviour. Besides, it would be terrible to remove when needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oils, even thick, will eventually flow inside the chain due to their pure viscous behaviour, thus reaching the only important parts that need to be lubed, which are the internals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light oils penetrate fine, but due to the high surface friction while pedalling, won't work as well as thicker oils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use SAE 90 gearbox oil, which is the chain oil recommended by the manual of a Honda motorcycle I had. This oil is cheap, the bottle lasts forever, and it also lasts a lot in the chain. It's very similar to Finish Line Wet (green) lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T04:25:23.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8252" CreationDate="2012-03-01T05:29:59.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think of a bunny hop of more of a bouncing action - the upwards lift comes from bouncing the bike hard downwards first and the lift comes as a &quot;reaction&quot; to the downwards bounce. The skateboard trick called an ollie uses the same concept. So don't try to lift the back of the bike with the pedals, it doesn't help IMHO. Concentrating on the pedals is a mistake - you do most of the &quot;work&quot; with your legs and arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its all about timing and practice (just like an ollie). Look at some more video tutorials and keep practicing. It might also help to lower the seat so you can bend your legs more - to get more thrust. Remember to use exaggerated movements when trying - the number one mistake people make when trying a new technique is not moving/articulating their bodies &quot;enough&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bunny_hop_%28cycling%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; agrees with me: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3392" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2012-03-01T12:50:29.500" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T12:50:29.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8090" CreationDate="2012-03-01T06:05:18.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem and looked into it at the time and the carbon gripping compound as mentioned ny Nick H, is the way to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there was also a &quot;cheap a&amp;amp;%e&quot; solution of using either hairspray or the spray-on adhesive for sticking paper together. You spray some on the seatpost and clamp it tight. The light glue in the spray provides enough grip to keep the post in place. But its not so sticky that it stops the seatpost from being adjusted later on (and it can be washed off)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3392" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T06:05:18.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8252" CreationDate="2012-03-01T10:41:34.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learnt on a BMX but I can bunny hop on 24/26 inch wheels to, the skill is transferable one you get the feel for the lean back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bunny hop is not a bouncing action... although you CAN get the bike off the floor in this method - I call that method hoppity hops, it's incorrect and will hurt your wrists. You can hop with suspension if your bike has it, not the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bunny hop is several movements that blend into one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throw your weight backwards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Punch FORWARD on the bars. (Forward is an upward direction when you are leaning back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jump hard, focusing on tucking your legs as close to your body as you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to explain why this works...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throwing your weight backwards is more effective than using your muscles to lift the bike, you also have to have your weight behind the back wheel to pop up the front. So stick your bum out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pushing up gives you more height and pushing forward brings the back wheel up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tucking your legs brings the back wheel up even further, this is an explosive movement, you should bring them up as hard and fast as you can. You need peddles which actually have pins that aren't worn out or you can slip a foot.&#xA;I find that you don't need to focus on pushing back with you feet to keep grip, you naturally wind up doing it when you push forward on the bars and crunch legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WTrf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7WTrf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took me a while to get the technique correct, I started jumping over a single flat 2x4. Then after I got comfortable doing that I put the 2x4 on it's side, to double height... then just progressed like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practise required! It's not very fun at first but once you get down the technique and start making some progress it's very satisfying!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, clip on peddles are for racing. You'll just injure yourself and learn bad technique using them for tricks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastEditorUserId="3562" LastEditDate="2019-08-07T13:29:06.723" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T13:29:06.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8331" CreationDate="2012-03-01T12:53:09.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Toronto Bike show is great, I have gone many times.  I actually will be there on Sunday as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy seeing the bikes, the BMX stunt shows, and all the groups showing their group ride routes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But bring lots of cash.  Lots of deals for cash to be had.  Look at bike shops bargain bins for parts you might need cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually go looking for close outs on clothing, since I have gotten amazing deals that way before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T12:53:09.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4682" CreationDate="2012-03-01T13:15:03.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming 113kg of carbon for manufacture of a bike this equates to 414kg of CO2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A car with an MPG of 40 emits 272g of CO2 per mile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mean you would need to do 1500 miles on the bike to break even. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3563" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T13:15:03.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8353" CreationDate="2012-03-01T16:35:55.220" Score="8" ViewCount="7838" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to wash a bike helmet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The straps are getting a bit rank from sweat and I'd like a better alternative to just hosing it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T20:57:20.720" Title="How to wash a bike helmet properly?" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8352" CreationDate="2012-03-01T17:10:55.707" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From time to time, I soak it in water with a bit of glicerin soap (&quot;neutral&quot;, recommended on manuals) disolved, in a bucket. I leave it a whole day submerged (have to put something heavy over the helmet, otherwise it floats out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rationale is this: when you submerge, the natural diffusion process inside liquids makes the soap penetrate the sweat, and part of the sweat to disolve in the water. Soap has a natural tendency to suspend fat, and fatty acids released by skin are the hardest part to take away from the straps (the minerals, like salt, ammonia and the like, go away from diffusion even without soap). Also, these are consumed by bacteria and produce the stinky substances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this process is done, I wash it by replacing the whole water many times, while diving it repeatedly and vigorously inside the bucket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drying in a sunlit place (not necessarily direct sun) in a dry and windy day is ideal to kill the last bacteria and eliminate the last vestigial stinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already disassembled the fittings through which the straps run, tied a thread to one of the straps ends, and pulled the straps out, leaving the thread behind. Washed the straps alone, and pulled them back using the thread. My conclusion: too much work, risk of not getting it right, and not so much better than the previously described procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T17:10:55.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8375" CreationDate="2012-03-01T18:06:41.060" Score="6" ViewCount="3079" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marinas are often located a bit outside from town centers and shopping locations. So a bike might be a good thing to have aboard a sailing boat. Given the limited space on such a vessel I'm thinking about getting a folding bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for in a bike and storage location, considering that the environment, even inside the cabin, will be quite salty and might cause the bike to rust faster than I'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I'm mostly doing short trips so I can store it most of the time on land, but I plan on going on a larger trip around Northern Atlantic once I feel comfortable and properly equipped (and told my boss ;-) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-03-04T08:01:15.883" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T01:01:29.057" Title="Taking a bike on a sailing boat" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;salt&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8354" CreationDate="2012-03-01T18:34:07.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rust is a valid concern, but there are certainly ways you can deal with it.  And aluminum-framed bike will not rust like a steel one.  If you do have a steel-framed bike, investing in a product such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/JP-Weigle-Frame-Saver-Aerosol-Can&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frame Saver&lt;/a&gt; certainly makes a lot of sense.  I would be sure to keep your drivetrain well-lubricated, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final concern would be assorted nuts and bolts.  I wouldn't think most of these would be a major problem, but if it looks like they are starting to rust over, you might want to consider replacing them with their titanium equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T18:34:07.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8354" CreationDate="2012-03-01T19:05:13.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can find some folding bike with belt-drive instead of chain-drive. This would remove the most &quot;rust forming&quot; element of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, hydraulic brakes, be them disc or rim brakes, eliminate the hardening inside the brake cables, which sometimes is annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, if you are not willing to spend much, a bit of simple extra care, taken just a bit more often than a non-salty-environment bike, would allow you to use your bike without having to spend too much energy on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T19:05:13.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8352" CreationDate="2012-03-01T20:57:20.720" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than any complicated method or products, I do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take it with me when I shower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lather up hair with my preferred shampoo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen straps and fittings, place helmet on head and move and squish it around a bit to distribute the shampoo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shampoo or body wash works great.  Then I just clip the straps over a line to hang the helmet to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T20:57:20.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-01T21:22:58.580" Score="0" ViewCount="2211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick question. I have a lower quality mountain bike with a bad &lt;strong&gt;suspension&lt;/strong&gt; fork. Overall the bike isn't bad. It fits me well and I have a lot of fun on it. I would like splurge on a new mountain bike but that just isn't a priority right now (but a cross bike would be pretty nice...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was thinking that maybe what I should do is look around for a new fork. My general bike knowledge is pretty good but I know almost nothing about forks. I was hoping that someone could point me to a good reference on what I need to know before I buy a fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that buying a new fork probably isn't a good deal. I think for that price I should just buy a new bike. I would ideally like to spend around $100 but I would spend up to $200.  I suspect that this puts me in the used fork category.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key features I would like out of my new fork:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold weather riding: my fork currently goes stiff at 5C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lighter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better traction/handling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More fun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other - I have never ridden a better fork so &quot;other&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/sQ8xa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Picture of my current bike&lt;/a&gt; (for context)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/m4enc/start_over_or_upgrade/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brief description of my bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/MTB/comments/qd01i/good_resources_to_learn_about_forks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link to same question on Reddit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2012-03-02T18:05:12.747" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T08:55:26.397" Title="Good resources to learn about forks" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8300" CreationDate="2012-03-02T01:49:03.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the cotter pins is in backwards. I did that once by accident when reassembling. It's easy to fix - take the nut off, tap the pin out with a hammer, then insert it in the opposite direction from what it was before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T01:49:03.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-02T03:21:16.150" Score="0" ViewCount="903" Body="&lt;p&gt;my Trek FX 7.5 was stolen a couple of days ago, and I'm looking to replace it with a 7.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really liked the 7.5, so happy to stick with the brand and make, but thought I should consider other bikes that are similiar. Does anyone have any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Giles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T20:04:55.107" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T20:04:55.107" Title="Considering a Trek FX 7.7 - What else should I look at that is similar" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-10-02T18:12:21.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8358" CreationDate="2012-03-02T15:09:08.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most important things when you put a fork on a bike is how it &quot;fits&quot; the bike's frame geometry. Ideally fork and frame are designed together in what is called a &quot;frameset&quot;. The geometry, which difectly determines fit and handling, is only complete when you consider a frameset, not a frame alone, neither a fork alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, many mountainbikes are designed to be used with a suspension fork with relative large travels, for example 100mm. Then, if you take a rigid bike and put a suspension, you'll lift the bottom bracket, decrease the seat tube angle and decrease the head tube angle, unavoidably altering fit and handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you take a frame that's supposed to run a suspension and install a (shorter) fork, or even a shorter suspension, the same effects happen in the same way. That's why Surly (a manufacturer) produces &quot;100mm corrected&quot; framesets, which consist of a frame ready to receive a suspension fork, and a fork substantially longer than needed (about the same size of a 100mm suspension fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already made both changes (lifting and lowering the front-end of a bicycle via exchanging suspension or fork). The result in terms of rideability, when the bike is not &quot;ready&quot;, is always a bit awkward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talking about fork materials and rigidity, from my experience rigid forks from any material are pretty rigid, to the point you cannot actually note any difference. Some steel forks have wide curves close to the dropouts, in order to absorb some shock, but that's a very old-fashioned design, and would look definitely &quot;wrong&quot; on a mountain bike. Mountain bikes should absorb shock via a suspension-fork, or wide tires, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A side effect of some suspension forks is that handling becomes a bit wobbly either because of torsion/deformation of the fork itself while steering/cornering, either because of altered handling geometry (raising the front increases caster, making the bike potentially &quot;slow&quot; to steer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen broken forks, and have broken/bent some cheap ones myself in the past, but I think any decent one (in your price range) would be fine. Aluminum ones are probably lighter and very well suited to your intended use. You just should choose one that has at least a similar geometry to your current one, specially if you like the way your bike handles and don't want to spoil that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T15:09:08.200" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8325" CreationDate="2012-03-02T17:25:56.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go to the mechanic's section of Bikeforums, you'll find that chain-lube discussions tend to go on and on and on....&#xA;Everyone has their own opinion, and many seem to have an almost-manic tendency to concoct the ultimate chain lube...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just buy whatever commercial product is handy.  A bottle of high-quality chain lube will generally last the average cyclist for a year or more, unless you race cyclocross or something.&#xA;So even at 9 bucks a bottle it's pretty cheap.&#xA;I use the Finish Line products for our patrol bikes; I maintain about 30 of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the ultimate lube likely doesn't exist.  If it did, it would penetrate deeply into the chain's rollers, where it would then set up into a grease-like substance that would also magically repel dust, dirt, and road grime.&#xA;Petro-based lubes penetrate well, but tend to fly off and attract dirt.   Wax-based lubes shed dirt, but they do that by solidifying and falling off... You have to constantly re-apply.&#xA;Most good commercial lubes are a complex blend of petro products, teflon, and other ingredients.  they have a &quot;carrier&quot; vehicle that helps them penetrate, and when the carrier evaporates it leaves the lube behind, hopefully in the right places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe more important than what lube you use is how often and how thoroughly you clean the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1297" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T17:25:56.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2193" CreationDate="2012-03-02T19:06:21.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you will need to do a series of brake applications to ensure a nice even coat of pad material is layered on the brake rotor or disk.  What your essentially doing here is cooking your pad so that the rotor will have pad material transferred to it.  Also, your also making sure the pad is mature enough to be used for those big hills.  If you want to know what a rotor looks like when you do this wrong, then check this car website out:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cquence.net/blog/brake_pads_and_install_guidelines/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cquence.net/blog/brake_pads_and_install_guidelines/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3570" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T19:06:21.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8333" CreationDate="2012-03-02T22:16:12.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a good place to start &lt;a href=&quot;http://ec.europa.eu/transport/road_safety/observatory/traffic_rules_en.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Road Traffic Rules&lt;/a&gt; And here might be helpful also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imcom-europe.army.mil/webs/sites/staff_org/safety/driver_training/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Learning to Drive in Europe &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how it is in Germany, but in the United States. Cars and Bikes must obey the same rules of the road and believe it or not share equal rights of the road. It would make sense that the same is true in Germany, considering how it would not be practical to make a separate set of road signs for just bicycles, etc. I would suggest you go to your local resources for information about learning how to drive an automobile and ask where bikes fit in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3573" LastEditorUserId="3573" LastEditDate="2012-03-04T21:24:54.563" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T21:24:54.563" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8333" CreationDate="2012-03-03T01:49:44.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you should get at least one lesson in person from an experienced rider: who can tell you what you want to know, and, correct anything you're doing wrong which you don't even know enough to ask about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you should &quot;cycling in real traffic&quot; with no experience at all and based only on what you read: there's more to it, it's more complicated or takes more skill, than only understanding the traffic signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T01:49:44.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8358" CreationDate="2012-03-03T08:55:26.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The bad news&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$200 won't get a new fork much better than the one you have now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The good news&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second-hand market is full of a couple of year old forks that were originally twice that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Do your research&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forks may look frighteningly full of tech, but they are designed to be serviced so the delicate parts are inside cartridges that can safely be removed.  So if you see a fork you like on eBay for example, go to the manufacturers website and look at the servicing instructions - it will make your second-hand fork feel new again and only for the cost of new seals and some fork fluid (~$30).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Play it safe&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick to the 'big 3' manufacturers: Marzocchi, RockShox, and Fox.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not go beyond 4 years old.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remember to ask the seller what length their steerer tube is, it's normally cut down to fit the bike - but if their headtube is significantly smaller than yours you may have not enough material for your stem to bite onto.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask the seller if there are any scratches/dents on the stanchions (the smooth poles the seals grip onto), if there are - DO NOT BUY!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask the seller if the forks creak, it generally means the bushes need replacing.  Although this isn't too difficult, it will add ~$30 onto the servicing cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, read reviews on your chosen fork &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTBR&lt;/a&gt; is a good place.  And once you have any specific questions, come back here and we can help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T08:55:26.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-03T11:22:56.280" Score="2" ViewCount="4597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an SRAM S7 gear on my bike, and I'm not content with it. I find it more or less impossible to get the adjustment right. Supposedly I just have to leave the shifter in position 7 and then assemble the outer part, but that doesn't always hit the spot and the result vary from working as it should periodically, to grinding, to not shifting when it is supposed to. Furthermore the hub is constructed just so that if the chain fall off it gets stuck on an elevation next to the cogwheel, from there it is impossible to get off without picking off the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point of case, I want something better. I'm looking for reliability and low maintenance. Preferably something that fit's on the same frame. I'd like at least a 5 speed gear, but don't care much for more than that, the current 7 seems a bit overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm willing to pay what reasonable quality costs, realizing that what I paid last time probably wasn't enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wonder exactly how hard it will be to replace the parts, I'm a bit split between doing it myself or paying a shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I get? Any other advice for my situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3351" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T23:03:59.980" Title="Replace S-RAM S7 gear hub with something better" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8284" CreationDate="2012-03-03T12:57:13.073" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is not solid solution which I asked for, but since there are no better answers at the time of writing this should fit.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you spot here an error or over-simplication let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will assume tire is torus-shaped. It is not true, but it has to stay, because real shape is to computational expensive to handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Comfort&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Crossing holes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like crossing the rails, here diameter matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;26 + 2 * w26 = 28+2*w28&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you get &lt;code&gt;w28 = w26-1&lt;/code&gt; (translating into English -- you can have width 1&quot; narrower than with 26&quot; tires to get the same effect of rolling over holes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Crossing obstacles&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another assumption -- when we hit an obstacle only pressure is changed, and the force from the tire material is negligible. Not even going to formula for force of changing pressure of the air, it is sufficient to notice we are not seeking the formula, we are seeking the same effect for 26&quot; and 28&quot;. So the only factor that matters here is the volume of the tires -- it has to be identical to get identical effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Volume of torus: &lt;code&gt;2 * Pi ^2 * R * r ^ 2&lt;/code&gt;, here &lt;code&gt;r&lt;/code&gt; is half of the width of the tire, and R is half of the size of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2 * Pi ^ 2 * 26&quot;/2 * (w26/2)^2 = 2 * Pi ^ 2 * 28&quot;/2 * (w28/2)^2&#xA;26&quot; * w26^2 = 28&quot; * w28^2&#xA;sqrt(26/28) * w26 = w28&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scaling factor is here ~ .96, this is more tighter constraint than the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For above 2&quot; width tire (my case), I can have 0.1 narrower tire in 28&quot; to get the same feeling when riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The effort&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to ride comfortably I have to consider air resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;resistance ratio = w28*(28+2*w28) / w26*(26+2*w26)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It tells how much resistance will change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;= sqrt(26/28) * w26 *(28+2*sqrt(26/28) * w26) / w26*(26+2*w26)&#xA;= sqrt(26/28)*(28+2*sqrt(26/28)*w26) / (26+2*w26)&#xA;= sqrt(26/28)*28+2*(26/28)*w26 / (26+2*w26)&#xA;= sqrt(26*28)+(52/28)*w26 / (26+2*w26)&#xA;=~ 26.98+1.86*w26 / 26+2*w26&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 26&quot;, 2.35&quot; tire the ratio would be 1.02.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please note there is constant speed assumed.&lt;/strong&gt; You usually go for 28&quot; tires to get more speed, and air resistance is proportional to the square of the speed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for gusts of the wind from the side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;resistance ratio &#xA;= 2*Pi*(28/2+w28)^2-2*Pi*(28/2)^2 &#xA;  / 2*Pi*(26/2+w26)^2-2*Pi*(26/2)^2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't count for spokes, fork, they are important factors, but it will make computations even more complex (and besides, the effect will be different for blade spokes, and for regular).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;= (14+w28)^2-14^2 / (13+w26)^2-13^2&#xA;= (14+w28+14)(14+w28-14) / (13+w26+13)(13+w26-13)&#xA;= (28+w28)*w28 / (26+w26)*w26&#xA;= 28*w28+w28^2 / 26*w26+w26^2&#xA;= 28*sqrt(26/28)*w26+(sqrt(26/28)*w26)^2 / 26*w26+w26^2&#xA;= 28*sqrt(26/28)*w26+(26/28)*w26^2 / 26*w26+w26^2&#xA;= 28*sqrt(26/28)+(26/28)*w26 / 26+w26&#xA;=~ 26.98+0.93*w26 / 26+w26&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say &lt;code&gt;w26=2.35&lt;/code&gt;. The ratio is 1.03 (a bit of surprise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, there is no free lunch after all ;-) However if you forgive discomfort when hitting obstacles, you can build 28&quot; bike faster in regard of air resistance and yet the one which rolls over with much more ease than 26&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The weight&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the difference of the radius, even the same weight is more harder to to move in case of 28&quot;. I will calculate this factor some other time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;My choice&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I go for 28&quot; bike (I didn't yet decide) I will change my 26&quot; 2.35&quot; tires to 28&quot; 2&quot; -- they should be faster (~0.9 less resistance), they will go more easily over the holes, and they will be just a bit stiffer when hitting an obstacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I thank Slovakov from BikeForum.pl for spotting the errors in equations. All still existing errors are only mine of course ;-).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2012-03-04T20:07:35.057" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T20:07:35.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8360" CreationDate="2012-03-03T14:09:40.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both the 7.5 and 7.7 are great bikes. An alternative would be a Specialized Sirrus. I have owned 2 Sirrus' and loved them. I only upgraded to a Specialize roubaix so i could participate in competitive road biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between the 7.5 and 7.7 is pretty big. 7.7 has much better road worthy components and will be several pounds lighter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T14:09:40.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8372" CreationDate="2012-03-03T15:44:03.450" Score="10" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you persuade some significant other to ride with you in the city. You both have good bikes, they are inexperienced, and you are (I am) used to commuting, including in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you prepare the inexperienced rider to ride in traffic, and keep them safe while they learn and practice? How do you instruct them while riding? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="907" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T21:17:44.583" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T00:35:04.230" Title="Supervising a beginner in traffic" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8371" CreationDate="2012-03-03T15:46:00.377" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride behind: she sets the pace, concentrates on the road ahead. Being behind I can watch, control the distance between us, speak advice, and manage (i.e. observe and give hand signals to) any vehicles approaching us from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I just found a quote on the front page of The VEHICULAR CYCLIST (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vehicularcyclist.com/index.html#1112&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;December 2011&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;I’ve taken three cycling courses since becoming a community officer with the Ottawa Police Service and am on schedule to become a cycling instructor this fall. At the end of every course, I’m absolutely amazed at all the bad habits that I had taught myself throughout the years, ...&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toronto.ca/cycling/safety/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.toronto.ca/cycling/safety/index.htm&lt;/a&gt; mentions &quot;CAN-BIKE&quot; courses. One idea might be to take that kind of lesson: I'd at least see how they teach it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T00:35:04.230" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T00:35:04.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8368" CreationDate="2012-03-03T16:05:38.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The S7 does not get very high marks on any review sites I've found.It seems that it wasn't designed to be shifted under load,you must stop pedaling or at least reduce the load.If you don't the internals get burrs and nicks and it doesn't work right. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=2713&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=2713&lt;/a&gt; has a good selection of hubs none are inexpensive.The price does not include building your wheel.You may not be able to use your old spokes if you change hubs.If the bike is not that old you might try complaining to Sram customer service.If it several years old another option is to have the internals repaired and not shifting while pedaling after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T16:05:38.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2012-03-03T19:35:44.327" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I directly contacted Kryptonite customer service for an answer to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I quote directly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The number that you need to register is just the SS followed by 5 numbers. The L code is used at the factory and is not needed.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3574" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T19:35:44.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8354" CreationDate="2012-03-04T02:53:24.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a couple of non-folding mountain bikes on a sailboat for 5 years. I opted for smaller frame non-folding bikes for performance, and there is a hatch they barely fit through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, rust is the major problem. Banging around in the waves and in the process of storing them is a potential problem. Because of this, there are no drink holders, speedometers, or other extra snags on the bikes. Regular chain lube helps a lot. The cables rusted enough to require replacement once. There are a few non-stainless bolts and nuts on the bikes (a Specialized and a Diamondback). They're easy to spot and replace or grease. The stainless steel material holds up well. Unpainted aluminum is corroding, but not to the point of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good thing is that although the bikes ride, shift, and brake very well, they are really ugly from rust and corrosion, so we don't have to lock them up when we use them -- nobody wants to steal them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T02:53:24.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8371" CreationDate="2012-03-04T03:21:29.203" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO (having run some Boy Scout cycling classes, among other things), before you go &quot;play in traffic&quot; with teens/adults you should have a &quot;chalk talk&quot; explaining the various basic rules/techniques for riding in traffic, and then, on a quiet road, demonstrate the techniques and have the &quot;student&quot; practice them a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, if by SO you mean a spouse or romantic interest such pedantry may not go over well, but it's the quickest and safest way to teach the techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, before you do this read up on how to ride in traffic yourself, from some reasonable authorities -- it's amazing how many adult cyclists have no idea how to properly ride in traffic, and how many bad habits they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T03:21:29.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8380" CreationDate="2012-03-04T17:01:25.037" Score="2" ViewCount="28135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me the difference between Shimano HG51 and HG50 8-Speed Cassettes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any information online about this so was hoping someone might be able to help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to replace the HG50 8-Speed Cassettes on my mountain bike but searching online there don't seem to be many about and they are more expensive than the HG51 which seem to be in higher supply as well. So I'm thinking of buying the HG51 to make some savings but not sure if its compatible, I'm thinking it might need a different chain to the HG50 or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3578" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T21:24:29.223" Title="Difference between Shimano HG51 8-Speed Cassette and Shimano HG50 8-Speed Cassette" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8371" CreationDate="2012-03-04T17:19:45.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some instruction a few days ago (to find out what bad habits I've accumulated), and after checking my bike and handling away from the road, and working through some scenarios on (almost) empty residential streets, the traffic section worked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;start on a quiet side-road, or in a safe spot at the side of the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;discuss a manageably short section of the journey: what junctions and manoeuvres are involved, where you're going to stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;instructor generally hung back to watch what I was doing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finish the section as discussed, analyse it, and then discuss the next section&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On longer straight sections, the instructor would ride alongside (traffic permitting) and discuss the next (or previous) step. You can (we did) segue straight into the next leg of the journey if there is enough time and space to talk it over on the move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing seems to be that you both know where you're going, what junctions or road layouts are involved, and how to approach each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that leading (or instructing) is about building both parties confidence: your SO will enjoy it more if they know what they're doing, and you'll enjoy it more if you're confident in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T17:19:45.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8378" CreationDate="2012-03-04T19:04:17.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only difference is the model number, and the year of the design. They are fully compatible, assuming the number of gears is the same, and that you buy the appropriate match to your bike. The road version is Tiagra 8 speed. The mountain/hybrid version is Alivio 8 speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T19:04:17.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2012-03-04T19:39:37.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;hey guys most of you seem to dismiss the fact that the spring in the break lever could be the problem but 9 times out of ten it is the spring and not the cable when i'm fixing breaks, don't assume any thing and give incorrect info to people please because that's the reason people get rid of perfectly fine bikes or bike parts, replace the spring man.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3580" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T19:39:37.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5644" CreationDate="2012-03-04T21:13:43.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice is similar. Here's how it went down for me once, after seeing a minor accident:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclist falls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traffic stops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concerned motorists get out and help the fallen (and their bike) to the side of the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's oh and tut-tutting and &quot;are you sure you're alright?&quot; and eventually (maybe only a minute or two) people drive off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I hang around a bit longer, the two of us now alone on the sidewalk. I want to be available but without pestering her: she's still recovering, and not back on her bike (so not alright yet, imo).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She tried to phone her boyfriend (while I waited), but no answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I soon saw she has some internal bleeding (abnormal swelling) within her elbow, though no exterior bleeding; and suggest she get it looked at (saying &quot;I'm sorry, that's going to hurt more, later ... and I can't touch it, I think you should get that seen by a doctor, you'll want a bandage or something&quot;); get her agreement; flag down a taxi for her to drive her to the hospital (and check that she has the taxi fare); lock her bike up where it is (thanks for having previously read matthew's advice in this thread); and ask if she knows where she is (so that she or her SO can retrieve the bike again later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first she seemed to be behaving a bit on automatic: &quot;yes I'm fine...&quot; to the people who had stopped. Some shock or something as well as a brave face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drivers related to her as a person, a social being, an autonomous adult, and let her brush them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe my being a cyclist helped me to relate, to be a bit more familiar/intimate, or physical: and to stay a bit longer when others felt it was time to get back in their cars and to let the traffic resume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, the one time I was knocked off my bike (a car hit me from behind), I didn't realize how badly I was hurt (swollen leg) nor how my bike was hurt (destroyed back wheel) until after the driver had stopped pestering me with his questions and apologies and his &quot;Oh my God!&quot;s: and had driven off, and left me alone, to discover how I was going to continue - a similar symptom: slow (or non-existent or automatic) thinking; shock or something maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T21:13:43.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8378" CreationDate="2012-03-04T21:52:16.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain is compatible. However unless your chain has really minimal wear replace it with the new cassette. If the chain has anymore than minimal wear it will wear the new cassette prematurely. Oddly the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano website&lt;/a&gt; shows two different lock ring tools TL-LR15 for the HG51 and TL-HG16 for the HG50. It is possible that the tool part number was not updated in the spec sheets. Just keep this in mind before you start the swap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="24774" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T21:24:29.223" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T21:24:29.223" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5187" CreationDate="2012-03-04T23:07:57.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three months ago I bought an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.avantibikes.com/sport-road/blade-8-belt-drive.aspx?bid=417&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avanti Blade 8C&lt;/a&gt; (belt-drive, Shimano Nexus 8-speed) and have had problems with noise in the drive train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belt tension appeared to be associated with the problem. I downloaded the Gates &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/carbon-drive-bicycle-calculator/id438346486?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Carbon Drive&lt;/em&gt; iPhone app&lt;/a&gt; and adjusted the tension so it vibrates at approx. 50 Hz and the noises have (almost entirely) gone away. This value falls in the middle of the range for internally-geared hubs (45–55 Hz) recommended by the app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it looks like belt tension is very important in this setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today (four days later) I rode the bike to work and it is very noisy again. I checked the tension again using the iPhone app and it is now shown to be very low. This is puzzling because the rear axle is held tight with 16 mm nuts. There are also screws that provide fine control over the horizontal position of the rear axle and I used them last week to set the belt tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the accuracy of the iPhone app, I get consistent reads on multiple attempts if I spin the cranks and flex the belt first. The strength of plucking will have very little effect on the frequency of vibration (like with a guitar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I take it all back! I am totally confused about the noises my bike makes and they may not be caused by belt tension problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, I am getting inconsistent results trying to use the Gates Carbon iPhone app. I can’t get a consistent ‘twang’. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noisy bike saga continues. A belt-driven bike is not supposed to sound like a chorus of cicadas!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3581" LastEditorUserId="3581" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T02:43:41.850" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T02:43:41.850" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8387" CreationDate="2012-03-05T08:44:25.963" Score="28" ViewCount="34055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the unfortunate habit of always getting my jeans stuck in my gears and end up with a nice rip on the seams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used those velcro braces to keep the bottom of my pants leg close to my body but I guess I pedal too close to the gears as those get caught in the gears too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3584" LastEditorUserId="2187" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T02:18:17.200" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T23:41:45.303" Title="How do I keep my pants/trousers from getting caught in the gears?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;clothing-care&gt;&lt;7-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2012-03-05T10:09:36.920" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are basically four solutions that do not involve extensive work on your bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll up the pant-leg on the gear-side high enough to stay away from the gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear tight fitting cycling pants that don't flap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use braces as you have, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fiets-onderdelen-online.nl/Broekklem&quot;&gt;clips such as these&lt;/a&gt; to keep your flappy pants close enough to your legs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stuff the pant-leg on the gear side in your socks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since option 3 doesn't work for you that leaves you with options 1, 2 or 4. However, when applying the braces or clips, (or stuffing your pant-leg in your socks) are you taking care to make sure all the excess pant-leg material is collected on the outside of your leg, away from the gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bicycle side: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeman.com/Chainring_Guards.html&quot;&gt;Chainring guards&lt;/a&gt; might help a bit, even better is a full &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ch.html&quot;&gt;chainguard&lt;/a&gt; but these may be hard to find for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T08:57:40.063" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T08:57:40.063" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2012-03-05T11:17:11.890" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that the top of and old sock over a neatly folded trouser leg works well.Cut the top of the sock long enough to cover your pants with leg fully extended to the top of the sprocket.The plus side is you don't ruin good socks stretching them over your pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T11:17:11.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8333" CreationDate="2012-03-05T11:19:56.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider contacting the &lt;strong&gt;ADFC&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adfc.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Allgemeiner Deutscher Fahrrad-Club&lt;/a&gt;). It is an association specifically for people who cycle as a means of transportation (rather than as a sport - though of course the two are not mutually exclusive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are part service organization, part environmental organization. They have local groups (&lt;em&gt;Kreisverband / Ortsverband&lt;/em&gt;) in almost every city, which usually have regular meetings. Contact your local group (or just go to the local meeting); they will be very happy to give you hints, share local knowledge etc. (even if you are not a member yourself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many local groups even have explicit meetings for people new to the area, or new to cycling in general, where they try to pass on useful knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a list of local groups: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adfc.de/ueber-uns/adfc-vor-ort/adfc-vor-ort&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ADFC vor Ort&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also have a lot of general information on their website. See e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adfc.de/verkehr--recht/sicher-unterwegs/sicher-unterwegs-uebersichtsseite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sicher unterwegs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Most stuff is only available in German, but I hope basic German is enough to read it. Local groups will be German as well, but many people will speak some English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer:&lt;/em&gt; I am an ADFC member myself, and have been active for several years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T11:19:56.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2012-03-05T14:33:58.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a 8 - 12&quot; piece of velcro, loop side, then adhere a 3&quot; self sticking hook side on the end of the inside. Tuck and wrap. $1.50 cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had mine for 5 years, using it almost daily with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T14:33:58.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-05T15:00:07.480" Score="7" ViewCount="1320" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I ride my bike, depending on which route I take, there are bike lanes and there are not - both routes take the same amount of time/distance, the only difference is the presence (or lack thereof) of bike lanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.observer.com/2010/10/bike-lanes-actually-kinda-dangerous/&quot;&gt;This article, in the New York Observer&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingprof.blogspot.com/2010/09/how-dedicated-bike-lanes-can-make.html&quot;&gt;this one from the Law, Economics &amp;amp; Cycling blog&lt;/a&gt; highlight issues with bike lanes and indicate that dedicated bike lanes may be more dangerous than riding in the road. Is there any proof to this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3585" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T19:41:07.963" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T21:03:56.463" Title="Is it more dangerous to use a bike lane or to ride in the road proper?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8392" CreationDate="2012-03-05T16:33:44.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a study of the German traffic ministry which explicitly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adfc-weyhe.de/radwege/unfallzahlen.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;compared crash statistics&lt;/a&gt;, arriving at the conclusion of intra-city bike lanes being more dangerous. Source: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bundesminister für Verkehr (Hg.): Forschung Stadtverkehr, Zusammenfassende Auswertung von Forschungsergebnissen zum Radverkehr in der Stadt, Heft A7, 1991&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are plenty of styles for bike lanes, and much difference between countries, and I'd think that the low total number of accidents considered (roughly 1000) is sufficient to give a general answer. So, handle results with care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2353" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T16:33:44.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8392" CreationDate="2012-03-05T17:06:43.920" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, and no.  Maybe.  John Forester &amp;amp; co did some studies about 30-35 years ago that suggested that bike &lt;em&gt;paths&lt;/em&gt; (primarily in the eastern US) were more dangerous.  But bike lane/path technology has improved since then, and a lot depends on the particular circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC, the biggest hazard was at side streets and driveways, where the motorist was apt to cross the bike path without yielding.  (This problem would presumably be somewhat less likely with bike &lt;em&gt;lanes&lt;/em&gt; that are only slightly separated from the driving lanes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, accidents at intersections are something like 50 times more common that &amp;quot;overtaking&amp;quot; accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Added:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a site with several references on bike safety: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikexprt.com/research/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bikexprt.com/research/index.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is John Forester's web site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.johnforester.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.johnforester.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-05-06T02:41:38.797" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2012-03-05T19:38:10.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to velcro and clips, you can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/471599199-11-8-x-1-2-reflective-slap-bracelets-wholesalers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;slap bracelets.&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Badge holder lanyards from conventions work well, too (but only the ones with alligator clips).  Wrap it once around, put the clip end through the closed end and pull it tight.  The clip will hold it tight.  (pics later)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T19:38:10.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8368" CreationDate="2012-03-06T05:58:05.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheapest option is probably to buy a whole new wheel off the internet. The Sturmey Archer 5 speed with drum brake is my first choice (www.sturmey-archer.com/products/hubs/cid/4/id/33) - costs &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sturmey-archer-xl-rd5-alu-5-sp-rear-hub-90mm-drum-brake-36-hole-prod25549/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;about 140 pounds&lt;/a&gt; for the hub from SJS in the UK. The advantage of the Sturmey hub is that it's designed to work in various frame spacings so you just remove a couple of spacers and it'll work. They're rumored to be quite robust but I haven't tried the 5 speed, only the 3 and 8. But the brand is good (was UK, now Taiwan, which seems to have lifted the manufacturing consistency a bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can use a disk brake on your bike the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/0/alfine.html#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Alfine 8&lt;/a&gt; is a good option, about $US400 with a cheap brake by the look of it. (do not get a Nexus hub, they were a bit of a learning experience for Shimano). They're available with a disk brake as an option, so it comes down to what your bike frame will accept. If it's got an internal brake now it'll almost certainly accept the drum brake, but if it'll take a disk the Alfine is a slightly nicer hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the Alfine you'll probably have to spread it to 135mm, as (from memory) there aren't any spare spacers you can remove. The SA with drop right in. But if your frame is steel you will almost certainly be able to just spread it the 5mm to take the slightly wider wheel. If you're not comfortable doing that a bike shop or framebuilder will be able to &quot;cold set&quot; (ie, bend) it for you. With aluminium or composite frames that's not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't have enough points to embed the third link, sorry)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T05:58:05.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6567" CreationDate="2012-03-06T07:09:00.390" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Bicycles Stack Exchange Blog now has the most comprehensive bike taillight review on the internet (to our knowledge):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/2012/03/tail-light-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Review of the Best Bicycle Tail Lights in 2012&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In total I reviewed fifteen different tail lights. The Cygolite Hotshot performed best in the most categories, but there are several other lights which did quite well. If you're looking for a good rear light, check out this review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/files/2020/12/almost-all-lights.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bike lights!&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T07:09:00.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2012-03-06T07:12:27.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course, having some good bright lights is a must for being visible at night! The Bicycles Stack Exchange Blog now has the most comprehensive bike taillight review on the internet (to our knowledge):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/2012/03/tail-light-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Review of the Best Bicycle Tail Lights in 2012&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In total I reviewed fifteen different tail lights. The Cygolite Hotshot performed best in the most categories, but there are several other lights which did quite well. If you're looking for a good rear light, check out this review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/files/2020/12/almost-all-lights.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bike lights!&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T07:12:27.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8404" CreationDate="2012-03-06T07:41:31.903" Score="1" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;Friends,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do anyone of you know on how to replace a bearing on BB7800 ?&#xA;Do I need a special tool ? or a screw driver, and hammer would be enough to push it out ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T13:47:39.573" Title="how to replace a bearing on BB7800?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1482" CreationDate="2012-03-06T08:35:43.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your crank is wobbling or there's a noise in your bottom bracket when you're pedalling, maybe it's time for you to replace your bottom bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-03-17T09:30:11.077" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T09:30:11.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8392" CreationDate="2012-03-06T10:28:31.040" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two articles you link call bike lines dangerous, but in the first article the dangers come from bad maintenance and some poor design choices, and in the second article the dangers come from abuse of the bike lane by others. This muddies the issues, but highlights a problem with your question, which is: It really depends on the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike lane is poorly maintained, crosses a lot of busy intersections, is narrow, and is poorly separated from the road and your other route is along a very quiet very wide country road with almost no intersections then obviously the non-bike lane option is a lot safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the on-road safety for cyclists, regardless of the availability of bike lanes depends on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traffic density&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amount of space available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visibility conditions, especially at intersections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How accustomed other traffic participants are to sharing the road with cyclists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike lanes help improve safety where they separate bikes from other traffic, but if bikes and other traffic later mix again (at intersections) then obviously the chances of the other traffic not thinking of the bikes increase, and thus the chance of accidents increases. This is what the german study &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/8393/424&quot;&gt;linked by thiton&lt;/a&gt; highlights. In my experience the &quot;danger&quot; in bike lanes is mostly a danger of the place where the bike lane ends. And bike lanes are of course more likely to end in places where installing the bike lanes was not a very popular option in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have cycled all over europe, and there are a lot of cities where, at some point, environmental concerns, health concerns, and what have you prompted city administrators to start building bike lanes. However, in countries where there is no cycling culture you will see that the bike lanes simply disappear whenever it would be even slightly inconvenient for other road users to build a bike lane. Every bike-lane end creates a situation that is generally more dangerous than it was before the bike lane was installed &lt;strong&gt;at that point in the route&lt;/strong&gt;. If you build enough continuous bike lanes you make your streets safer for cyclists, but if all you do is add bike-lane-endings all over the place the route probably become more unsafe for cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so there you have it. It depends on the specific bike lane. Use your judgement. Maybe try both routes slowly a few times to see how often you encounter risky situations on either, before doing them at race speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T10:28:31.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8399" CreationDate="2012-03-06T10:51:10.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dura-Ace BB-7800 is designed to be replaced as a cartridge unit. Replacing the bearing in the cup, without replacing the cup, would be difficult, if not impossible without damaging the cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bottom brackets are exceptionally cheap, and really don't have much to them beyond the bearing, and the threaded cup to hold it in the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why spend the time and effort to replace only the bearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to replace the whole cup cartridge, you need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/5mm-p-handle-hex-wrench-ph-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5mm allen key&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/ratcheting-click-type-torque-wrench-tw-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a 3/8&quot; drive torque wrench capable of 40Nm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/ratcheting-click-type-torque-wrench-tw-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a 1/4&quot; drive torque wrench capable of 12Nm&lt;/a&gt;, The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-BBT-19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Hollowtech 2 BB cup tool&lt;/a&gt;, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/adjusting-cap-tool-bbt-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hollowtech 2 BB bearing adjustment tool&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Procedure &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0003-downloadFile.html/Hollowtech%20II%20Crank%20Installation.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here from Shimano on PDF&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video of general procedure &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/yiOqvoCJZfw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T13:47:39.573" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T13:47:39.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8399" CreationDate="2012-03-06T12:20:13.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cartridge-bearing-type-bottom-bracket-service-bbt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool web page&lt;/a&gt; shows the basic procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-tool-selection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BB cup tool&lt;/a&gt; for that particular model of cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T12:20:13.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2012-03-06T14:17:42.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the answer that I found worked well for my youngest and some of my friends kids was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower the seat so that they can almost have their feet flat on the ground so they can prevent themselves from falling too many times - so they are not terrified.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick a bike with short pedal arms so their legs rotate more times per minute which will help with balance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then run along beside them with a firm grip on their shoulder applying downward pressure to help them with their balance.  (this is almost stage 2, if they have zero balance you may have to also hold the back of the seat).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When they are ready, count outloud how many seconds they are on their own as a feedback mechanism if that is helpful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! and it does help you get in shape!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3593" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T22:25:03.613" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T22:25:03.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8392" CreationDate="2012-03-06T17:46:43.240" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, bike lanes (and other bike facilities) appear to be safer. Of course this is not always the case, but the general trend is that bike facilities, including lanes, tend to improve safety in the cycling environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One study from 1997 by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://pubsindex.trb.org/view.aspx?id=578182&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Transportation Research Board&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Major streets without bike facilities are where the most bike crashes happen, followed by minor streets without facilities, bike paths, and then bike lanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another one by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehjournal.net/content/8/1/47&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Environmental Health Journal&lt;/a&gt; in 2009,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A review of 23 studies on bicycling injuries found that bike facilities (e.g. off-road paths, on-road marked bike lanes, and on-road bike routes) are where bicyclists are safest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On-road marked bike lanes were found to have a positive safety effect in five studies, consistently reducing injury rate, collision frequency or crash rates by about 50% compared to unmodified roadways [61,62,65-67]. Three of those studies [61,66,67] found a similar effect for bike routes. One study [63] found that there was an increase in crash rates in the year following installation of marked bike lanes on a major road, especially for a section counter to on-road traffic flow, but this effect was not sustained over the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the effect of infrastructure design on cyclist safety was first studied more than three decades ago, the literature on the topic remains remarkably sparse. &lt;strong&gt;This review highlights opportunities for more detailed and controlled studies of infrastructure and cycling injuries.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22095351&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pub Med&lt;/a&gt; in 2011,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...Results. Installation of bicycle lanes did not lead to an increase in crashes, despite the probable increase in the number of bicyclists. The most likely explanations for the lack of increase in crashes are reduced vehicular speeds and fewer conflicts between vehicles and bicyclists after installation of these lanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a memo from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nyc.gov/html/om/pdf/bike_lanes_memo.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;New York Mayor's Office&lt;/a&gt; in 2011,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When protected bike lanes are installed, injury crashes for all road users (drivers,&#xA;pedestrians, cyclists), typically drop by 40 percent and by more than 50 percent in&#xA;some locations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on personal experience, I think that bike lanes are safer when &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;well designed and maintained&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. I normally use available bike lanes in my city; however, with the caveat being that I make every attempt at maintaining awareness of the surroundings. I'll just say that bike lanes are pretty much &lt;em&gt;useless for the &lt;strong&gt;oblivious&lt;/strong&gt; cyclist&lt;/em&gt;; otherwise bike lanes are a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Observations (so my personal opinion):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike lanes and paths are more or less &lt;em&gt;dangerous&lt;/em&gt; depending on the &lt;em&gt;location&lt;/em&gt;. Some cities/countries have good cycling infrastructure and some do not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oblivious&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; cyclists are &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; in danger. So, there's a point to be made that cyclists need to be highly attentive to conditions at all times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesbelong.org/resources/stats-and-research/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bikes Belong&lt;/a&gt; has links to a plethora of bicycling research and statistics.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T21:03:56.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="856" CreationDate="2012-03-06T20:12:27.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;strong&gt;great&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesbelong.org/resources/promoting-bicycling/tips-for-individuals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesbelong.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bikes Belong&lt;/a&gt; on effective methods of bicycling advocacy by individuals!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride your bike and represent bicycling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect with local advocacy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect/network with government and community leaders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get involved at the national level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T20:12:27.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8371" CreationDate="2012-03-06T22:15:15.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do you prepare the inexperienced rider to ride in traffic, and keep them safe while they learn and practice? How do you instruct them while riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on how inexperienced the other rider is...and providing that you had a pre-ride discussion of cycling safety. A rough idea is to take progressively small steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start on quiet, slow traffic, residential streets for a nice ride. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, venture off of the the quiet streets for segments onto somewhat busier streets for a few blocks of the ride. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, go for some rides on roads where the traffic is moderate and the traffic speed is moderate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gist is... Progressively build up at the pace/comfort level of the inexperienced cyclist and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; your pace. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your idea of riding in back is good to start out. Once your SO/partner/friend is up to speed, then try things out where you lead, and see if it is working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T22:15:15.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-06T22:45:59.170" Score="1" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a second hand Diamond Back Sorrento mountain bike, the bike is about 5 - 6yrs old apparently and needs some minor maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes are absolutely shot and I need to replace the brake pads front and back but I can't find the correct pads, they are &lt;strong&gt;Quando&lt;/strong&gt; mechanical cable disc brakes. They seem pretty budget and I have never heard of the brand of brakes before and can't find any information online about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See images below, they are &lt;strong&gt;23mm diameter&lt;/strong&gt; and fit flush into the caliper which is also &lt;strong&gt;23mm diameter&lt;/strong&gt;. They are held in place magnectically... Anyone got any idea where I could get similar pads that are the correct size. I really don't want to have to buy new calipers just because I can't find the correct size pads... HELP!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see images here - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2198561/1/brake-pads?h=f86002&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2198561/1/brake-pads?h=f86002&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3578" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T22:11:59.780" Title="Quando Brake Pads - Anyone know where I can get a pair" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6543" CreationDate="2012-03-06T22:53:35.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With my Atera carriers, fitting the bike 'backwards' means that it can pivot forward on the frame clamp under very heavy braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned this to my cost when using them for the first time, having fitted the two bikes in opposite directions as it seem the right thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer; I always fit facing forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3104" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T22:53:35.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-03-06T23:22:32.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that 5 miles is not really a long ride, and that rain aside there's really no need to wear any sort of special clothing at all provided you can move freely in what you're wearing. Unless you need to wear a suit for work there's not that much need to change either (though YMMV and perhaps if you are just starting out it's best to assume a change.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do a similar length commute (9-10km) daily between North Vancouver and Vancouver, BC, decent amount of climbing each way (bridges, dammit) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On dry days I wear jeans, slightly skinnier than average but that's only because it's what I like. Shorts in the summer, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On wet days (of which we have many) I wear &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sugoi.com/can/bike/men/outerwear/majik-shell-pant-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sugoi Majik Shell Pants&lt;/a&gt; - which are a super light waterproof shell - over my jeans. They are too light to wear alone, most of the time, but are super effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On marginal days I wear my jeans and make sure I have the Sugoi pants packed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have some experience of city cycling pants from both Rapha and &lt;a href=&quot;http://outlier.cc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Outlier&lt;/a&gt;. They both make great products but while both are quick drying (Outlier slightly better) neither will keep you dry. I would probably wear them more often if I had a longer commute. Do love Rapha gear though, spendy but it is really nicely done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3365" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T23:22:32.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8392" CreationDate="2012-03-06T23:22:38.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any statistics to support my point but I have been commuting to work regularly on my bike in London for over fifteen years. In my experience most roads are safer than dedicated bike lanes. This may sound counter intuitive but there are definite issues around using cycle lanes, especially those on quiet roads or those that share space with pedestrians. Clearly there are exceptions. Cycling on a motorway for example is not only illegal but also dangerous for cyclists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, when cycling on the road you need to take care that you are observant of other vehicles (including cyclists and pedestrians who want to cross the road) but as long as you are doing this and you ensure you are visible and not just to vehicles behind you but in front of you (if you can't see the wing mirror of a lorry / bus in front of you what chance do they have of seeing you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do use cycling lanes but find I need to take even greater care when using them, especially those on quieter routes for the simple reason that on a quieter route being a cyclist means that your mode of transport is in itself very quiet. Pedestrians and other cyclists don't hear you coming. You need to be aware of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My simple advice though is that your safety is your responsibility first and foremost. Don't jump lights, avoid weaving through traffic and make sure you are visible at all times. Be aware of other road / pavement users and try to anticipate problems rather than assume you have the right to cycle as fast as you like. Stick to those principles and you will be safe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3598" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T23:22:38.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8417" CreationDate="2012-03-06T23:39:17.153" Score="1" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what sites support uploading .FIT (from a Garmin Edge 200) files for analysis and mapping? I know that Garmin Connect does, but I'd like to evaluate other sites that does what Connect does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T00:31:16.597" Title="What sites support Garmin Edge 200 .FIT format?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8418" CreationDate="2012-03-06T23:49:50.013" Score="3" ViewCount="15273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to troubleshoot my 24 speed hybrid bike.  As it was, the front shifter was having very little effect. I would change gears and not much would happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I had a chance to look at it, I noticed that the derailleur seemed to be barely moving when I shifted from 3rd to 2nd, and not at all from 2nd to 1st. I tried a few troubleshooting steps to tighten, loosen the cable, but nothing seemed to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have completely disconnected the shifter cable and the derailleur is sitting in between 3rd and 2nd gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if that's normal resting place, and if it's reasonable to see very little movement when shifting like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LuDev.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Full Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPXMD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;derailleur side&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/leSsa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="888" LastEditorUserId="888" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T01:59:46.183" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T16:43:37.353" Title="Front derailleur doesn't seem to be moving" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8410" CreationDate="2012-03-07T00:10:06.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They appear very similar to Avid BB5 pads.I would take your pads to your local shop and see if they match.The tab on the Avid pad looks to be a little longer but might fit.Tektro also has two numbers that look similar IOX.11 and L10.11&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T01:08:39.010" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T01:08:39.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8414" CreationDate="2012-03-07T00:31:16.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;@freiheit answered above, but I highly recommend strava.com as the added component of segments and battling it out with my friends over a section of road whether or not we are riding at the same time, or even if we are, seeing how much time I took back (or gave up) on a hill is pretty cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a paid membership they add additional ride analysis, such as HR and power. With your entered body weight and bicycle weight it will estimate your power and have found it to be a little off of my measured power, but it is always off by the same, so you can use it for trends (up or down) but wouldn't compare it to other cyclists too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer it so much that I am now logging all my rides, runs, swims and other workouts, basically using it as my training log.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option (not a website though) is SportTracks from Zone Five Software, download this onto your computer and import your rides, your data on your computer. I've used their free version and have to manually upload/import my .FIT files. I think the newer version will read right off your device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T00:31:16.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8415" CreationDate="2012-03-07T01:11:47.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are basically 4 possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The derailer is bent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The derailer is gummed up, has mud in it, or is otherwise being prevented from moving.  (You said the cable has been completely loosened, right?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The limit screws are misadjusted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's the wrong derailer for that gear setup.  Eg, a double derailer on a triple crank.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It is curious that the decal says &quot;8 speed&quot; -- not something you'd expect as original equipment on a 27 speed bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It appears to be a down-pull style derailer, and it should center over the granny gear when the cable is fully released.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T01:11:47.110" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6543" CreationDate="2012-03-07T01:50:35.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only reason I can think of...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front mounted: I have a &quot;bug shield&quot; (may be called a &quot;bike bra&quot;) with my rack (attaches to the handlebars/fork) and it only works on the front of the bike. The advantage is that I get to the end point without bug carcasses on the bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it probably makes no difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T02:10:50.640" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T02:10:50.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2012-03-07T03:14:55.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lights and reflectors... lots of it. As others have mentioned you can buy tires with reflective strips on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RNsNX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;(Picture taken indoors, with a flash)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also a firm believer of using multiple head and tail lights. When one fails there are others to fall back to. Also I stagger the time recharging my headlights... meaning I don't charge them at the same time. This further minimizes the chance that both will lose a charge when I am commuting at night. Some pics of my commuter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DR9qQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9UQVl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To top this off I have a Planet Bike Headlamp on my helmet and a triangular reflector I stitched on my backpack. In addition to the reflective strip on the tires I also placed white 3M reflective strips on the rims (4 each) so motorist can see the wheels rotating at night. Finally I use bright orange ankle straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T04:36:58.773" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T04:36:58.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8415" CreationDate="2012-03-07T07:10:48.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if your problem lies in the shifter unit? I had similar problems with my front derailer not moving much when the shifter was engaged. After investigation I found that the mechanism in the shifter was worn. When I replaced it things went back to normal. As for the position I have always started with the derailer nearest the frame and worked from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3600" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T07:10:48.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-07T13:42:23.020" Score="2" ViewCount="1079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am refreshing my drive train. I have been running a full 105 5600 set for a couple years. I have an ultegra cassette and chain ready to fit, and I am consdiering crankset/chainring options. Is the new 105 5700 hollow tech compatible with my 5600 Bottom Bracket? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3604" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T14:03:31.280" Title="Can if fit new 105 5700 cranks on my existing 5600BB?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8423" CreationDate="2012-03-07T14:03:31.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. Any Hollowtech 2 Bottom Bracket is compatible with any other Hollowtech 2 crank set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no difference in size or function between the 5600 BB and the 5700 BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T14:03:31.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-07T14:55:40.963" Score="3" ViewCount="6210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my cassette (Shimano HG30 8speed 11-32) and chain (KMC Z7) that is currently on my bike (pinnacle Aura), however these parts are now discontiuned and I need to find the replacments. I have been recommended the HG51 cassette but don't know which chain to get.  Can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3605" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T22:25:37.157" Title="Cassette HG 51, which chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8425" CreationDate="2012-03-07T16:13:47.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any 8-speed chain should work. If you want to be absolutely sure, get one made by the same company that made the cassette. I believe Shimano still makes several 8-speed chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T16:13:47.963" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8425" CreationDate="2012-03-07T19:06:46.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just purchased Shimano HG51 (11 - 30 tooth) casette and HG50 chain... I haven't fitted them yet but I have been advised they are compatible... see original post here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8378/difference-between-shimano-hg51-8-speed-cassette-and-shimano-hg50-8-speed-casset&quot;&gt;Difference between Shimano HG51 8-Speed Cassette and Shimano HG50 8-Speed Cassette&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3578" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T19:06:46.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8430" CreationDate="2012-03-07T20:04:48.947" Score="2" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8278/cold-hands-due-to-cold-wind&quot;&gt;Cold hands due to cold/wind&lt;/a&gt; question had a number of good recommendations, including using gloves with Windstopper branded material. My ski gloves are worn out so I purchased this silk weight Windstopper pair of gloves (WARMER - not WARMEST or WARM) last week to see if it could measure up to ski gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002VN86J6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VN86J6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They did not even come close. Commuting between 17-25 MPH on an electric bike in pedal assist mode (high cadence, low effort) at 50 degrees or so for 20 minutes, my hands are cold, and do feel the wind a little. My 10 year old thick ski gloves are much warmer. The upside of this pair of Windstopper gloves is that my fingers are fully mobile, as compared with my thick ski gloves which reduced finger dexterity to the point where it reduced reaction time for shifting and ringing the bell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning I tried using regular bike gloves worn under the Windstoppers, and that at least kept my palms warm, but fingers were still cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to use Windstopper-based gloves. Do they require liners to be effective?. If so, which brands/models are appropriate for which temperatures? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3448" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T17:56:34.120" Title="How to use Windstopper gloves most effectively?" Tags="&lt;gloves&gt;&lt;wind&gt;&lt;coolweather&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8428" CreationDate="2012-03-07T22:03:20.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute (cycle) for 60 minutes each way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wear summer (thin and fingerless) cycling gloves in temperatures down to about 40F (5C).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 50F (10C) I'm wearing a short-sleeved shirt, and short pants, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm totally relying on the extra heat I generate (from exercise) to stay warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must adjust your clothing to match, not only the outside temperature, but the amount of work you're doing (i.e. the amount of heat you're generating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T22:03:20.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8428" CreationDate="2012-03-08T00:01:57.497" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;They'll never provide as much insulation as ski gloves, on their own - they're not designed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're intended to block the wind (so minimising the convection heat loss due to high airflow) but still allow you to breathe (which implies you still get the heat loss due to evaporation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wicking/insulating liner underneath will add some straight insulation too; if it isn't wicking or fairly open weave you'll lose breathability, but on the other hand an open-weave glove the wind would otherwise cut right through will actually be useful with these over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, I sometimes wear a windproof shirt for running, usually in the winter: if I wear it over a singlet and it sits against bare skin on my arms, it doesn't add much (or any) warmth. If I wear it over a baselayer, it adds lots, while still being lighter than an equivalent softshell and more breathable than a hardshell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr - use a thin, breathable insulating liner. Wool will probably work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and pay attention to the cuffs and your sleeves: any part of your arm &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; covered, even if it doesn't feel cold itself, will be losing heat that should be reaching your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T00:01:57.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8428" CreationDate="2012-03-08T00:55:49.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems as though you have a different tolerance for cold than the &quot;average&quot; rider.  This can be caused by a lot of different things.  For example, I frequently notice the difference between myself and others since most of the state is very warm (Phoenix, Tucson, etc, where 75f is coat weather), while I am acclimated in an area where 60f is a nice day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, I would suggest adjusting your gear choices a bit to the colder side.  While a &quot;warmer&quot; glove might be fine for an &quot;average rider&quot;, you might be freezing even with a &quot;warmest&quot; glove choice.  For example, I have a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002PL7YT2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gore Bike Wear gloves&lt;/a&gt; (Should be the same Gore Windstopper Nylon), but have fairly thick insulation in addition.  I wear these when the temperature gets below 30f, and above 10f, with no problems, but they may be perfect for you, even in your warmer weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If even warmer gloves don't suit your needs, you might want to look at non-glove hand warmers.  I have a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://barmitts.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bar Mitts&lt;/a&gt; which I use in conjunction with my other glove choices.  At about 10f, I go to my summer gloves inside the bar mitts; 0f to my mid-level gloves; -10f back to the Bike Wear gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope something in there helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T00:55:49.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8435" CreationDate="2012-03-08T13:40:54.817" Score="22" ViewCount="12070" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I had to replace a hub on the front wheel of my workhorse bike. That meant unlace it and lace it again. Since the hubs were identical, I used the same old spokes, same not-so-old rim and same lacing pattern (3-crossings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I noticed (already noticed it many times) the contact point between spokes around the 3rd crossing (where they actually touch one another) was a bit stained (even being stainless steel spokes) and a tiny bit worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it is traditional to cross the spokes this way, and Sheldon Brown explicitly advises to BEND the spokes against one anoter (which I heartily recommend everybody to do, increases wheel durability very very much.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT since there are so much fancy wheels and even alternative lacing patterns (radial lacing, for example) where the spokes go straight from hub to rim, I wonder if it is really necessary to interlace the spokes in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I can number some hypothetical pros and cons of INTERLACING:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PROS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provides an extra contact point for the spoke, reducing mobility and flexion, and improving lateral stability;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduces resonance noises;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allows for fixation of spoke-cards ;o)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CONS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makes assembly a bit more difficult;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creates a potential stress point due to friction and flexion;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creates an initial bending around the contact point, which might allow for fatigue-inducing flexion around the spoke elbow;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makes cleaning a lot more difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: due to the confusion that arose between crossing vs. radial (which wasn't what I meant) and different ways to lace the same crossing pattern (what I intend actually), I made a drawing (out of scale) showing the two possibilities. At left, the &quot;physically touching crossing&quot;. Please note that in the frontal view (bottom left) the spokes are not actually twisted against one another like the view might induce to think, but are only flexing against one another).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oF8w.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very prone to lace my next wheel without physical crossings, since there seems to be enough evidence it is not actually necessary. Some months later, I could be sure if that works or not. But even if it is not necessary, it might still be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, have you any information/link/knowledge/experience about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-09-30T16:53:51.813" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T13:23:15.837" Title="Is it really necessary to physically cross (interlace) the spokes on traditional wheel lacing?" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2012-03-08T15:23:06.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Radial patterns are lighter weight (and potentially more aerodynamic), but are, in my experience, orders of magnitude more likely to result in broken spokes and taco'd rims when spokes &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also don't want to do radial spoking on rear wheels, since radial spoking will allow the hub to rotate relative to the rim while under drive tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T15:23:06.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2012-03-08T15:26:20.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think radial spokes are generally recommended only for front wheels, because they're weaker than normally-laced wheels &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; under the asymmetric torsion applied to the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WRT the drive forces: trailing spokes are necessary to transmit the drive force from the hub to the rim; radial spokes would make this transmission very spongy as the hub would rotate first, stretching the spokes slightly towards a tangential pattern before the force affected the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention lateral stability as a possible, but not decisive, &lt;em&gt;pro&lt;/em&gt;, but really I'd consider it essential, especially for accurate cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for outright strength, consider than any wheel will tend to bear most of its load through the topmost few spokes. On a radially-laced wheel, those spokes will be seated in adjacent holes, focussing all the force on the smallest possible section of flange. A tangentially-laced wheel will spread the load more evenly over the whole top half of each flange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps more accurately, since the wheel is pre-tensioned, consider the spoke deformation under &lt;em&gt;unloading&lt;/em&gt;. You need enough tension in each spoke that the minimal tension (at the bottom of the wheel, when the rim is slightly compressed) is still high enough to prevent the nipple unscrewing. Assuming the rim deformation is the same, a shorter spoke needs to contract by a larger fraction of its length than a longer spoke, which means &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; elastic deformation so &lt;em&gt;higher&lt;/em&gt; maximum tension for the same material and cross-section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a tangentially-laced spoke, at pretty much the maximum workable length, not only spreads its load more evenly over the hub flange, but requires a lower maximum tension in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for both of your flexion concerns, I suspect the reverse is true.  A true and correctly-tensioned wheel's spokes shouldn't be moving, and if anything the crossing will hold the elbow seated more firmly in the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T15:26:20.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2012-03-08T16:11:22.370" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the best source for answering this is Jobst Brandt's &lt;em&gt;The Bicycle Wheel&lt;/em&gt;, the definitive text on the wire-spoked wheel and an essential for anyone interested in the art of wheelbuilding.  Excerpted from page 68 of the 3rd edition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spokes in a crossed pattern are usually interlaced at their last crossing before reaching the rim. Spokes coming from between the flanges are laid over those from outside the flanges. Interlaced spokes take up each other's slack during severe radial loading and reduce the chance of spokes becoming loose. If spokes become loose, their nipples can unscrew. Radial spokes cannot be interlaced and therefore, lose alignment from road shock more easily. Interlacing also gives more clearance between the spokes and the derailleur on rear wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T17:24:39.690" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T17:24:39.690" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8415" CreationDate="2012-03-08T16:43:37.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the cable disconnected, if you pull the derailer out toward the biggest gear, does it &quot;spring&quot; back to the middle or smallest chainring? It actually should take a good amount of force to pull it out to the largest chainring. There should be a very noticeable amount of spring tension trying to pull it back inwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't move and stays out at the biggest chainring, the internal spring might be broken, or very weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T16:43:37.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-08T17:05:23.640" Score="6" ViewCount="16603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to ride a 300km brevet, and the plan is to let the faster bike alone at home, and go with a heavier one, for a lot of reasons, and one of them is the riding position on the fast one makes friction against the saddle a long-term problem. Besides, it is fixed gear and since I cannot stop pedalling, the problem is even bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen people talk about the wonders of chamois creams and powders, and I am planning to use some. But since I tend to have a traditional approach (and to be very skeptical about fancy advertisements), perhaps using some traditional home-made solutions could become an interesting exercise in self-sufficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some folks told me from experience that corn starch makes an excelent sweat-absorber, and also helps the skin to not suffer from friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some folks told me from experience that solid vaseline might be useful, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make my own chamois cream? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T18:15:22.527" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T02:47:29.590" Title="How can I make my own chamois cream? " Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;randonneuring&gt;&lt;chamois-creme&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2012-03-08T17:15:29.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak specifically to &quot;touching&quot; vs &quot;passing&quot;, as you have put it, but it would seem to be a similar rationale to tying &amp;amp; soldering wheels, which is supposedly done to increase stiffness, and prevent spokes from rattling in the event they break.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tied-soldered.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; (by Jobst Brandt, for better or worse) seems to dispute the stiffness claim, but I don't think it changes the rationale much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T17:15:29.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2012-03-08T17:16:27.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very interesting question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When two spokes are touching, then they're pulling against each other. They're like two adjacent links in a chain; when the chain is under load, both the links are subject to the same amount. So this might help spread the load better; but I have no idea if this effect is actually significant, since as you said, radial wheels work just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T17:16:27.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8437" CreationDate="2012-03-08T18:12:06.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of your chamois creams/&quot;butt butters&quot;, such as Paceline's &quot;Chamois Butt`r&quot;, are fairly conventional combos of standard skin cream ingredients, with a heavy emphasis on lanolin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried petrolatum (though many swear by it), and I'm a bit skeptical as to how it would fare compared to the more skin-cream-like concoctions.  Plus it would make more of a mess of the chamois and be harder to launder out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll admit that the commercial concoctions are a bit expensive, but a little goes a long way, so it's not that big of an investment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T18:12:06.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8437" CreationDate="2012-03-08T18:19:30.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not home-made, but pretty darn cheap (less than $5 last time I bought it, and it's lasted over 2 years): Lantiseptic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rusa.org/newsletter/08-04-10.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rusa.org/newsletter/08-04-10.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3615" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T18:19:30.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8437" CreationDate="2012-03-08T19:31:03.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about homemade formulations but there are cheaper alternatives to expensive, branded chamois creams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there alternatives to expensive, branded chamois creams?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes indeed. There are a number of cheap substitutes that work just fine. Some popular choices are Bag Balm, &lt;a href=&quot;http://coachlevi.com/product-reviews/queen-helene-cocoa-butter-creme-test-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Queen Helene’s Cocoa Butter Creme&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://coachlevi.com/product-reviews/udderly-smooth-udder-chamois-cream-test-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Udderly Smooth&lt;/a&gt;, and Noxzema Cream.&#xA;Those are all worth a shot. It’s also worth noting that the Noxzema Original Cream contains neat ingredients – camphor, menthol, and eucalyptus – like Assos does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only product I would avoid is Vaseline. I just don’t think it mixes well with expensive leather saddles, and it doesn’t come out in the wash, so you’re kind of stuck with it after one use!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.udderlysmooth.com/cycling-chamois.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Udderly Smooth&lt;/a&gt;. It's cheap and a little goes a long way. I've also used Noxema which has worked fine. As for corn starch I've used it in cooking, and considering that, I'm not sure that I'd want it in my pants after sweat gets added to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Quoted liberally from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://coachlevi.com/cycling/chamois-butter-exposed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CoachLevi.com&lt;/a&gt; the article: Chamois Butter Exposed! Common Myths, Folk Lore, and Reality&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Chamois-aka.-Shammy-Creme/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an actual recipe on Instructables&lt;/a&gt; since you said you'd like to try making it yourself. It's basically shea butter, aloe vera and olive oil; plus they offer some options. The ingredients are in the ball park of commercial versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T01:42:49.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8437" CreationDate="2012-03-09T02:26:50.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used hemmroid cream on &quot;hot spots&quot;due to chaffing on my feet but not more sensitive areas.Apparently it shrinks the membranes that cause blisters to form and thickens the skin so it is less likely to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T02:26:50.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2012-03-09T04:13:56.123" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't comment on doing a whole wheel this way, but I have seen wheel repairs done this way while touring. It did not work, I suspect for the reason that Jobst points out. The nipples unwound after a few days (at about 100km/day with perhaps 100kg load). Doing the spokes up tighter just broke spokes and stripped nipples. The mutual tensioning effect is IMO important, and super-gluing the crossings together after the wheel was tensioned merely broke the superglue. I suspect that was because of limited contact area rather than huge strain, though. But it didn't work as a post-hoc fix. But that was not a controlled experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read both Jobst's and Gerhard's books, and they're both worthy books. Jobst's has the advantage of being shorter. Unfortunately Sheldon's rec.bicycles.tech and the bicycle science mailing list discussions never really managed to get solid data on this, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/hparchive.htm&quot;&gt;Journal of Human Power&lt;/a&gt; has not had an article that covers it either. Jobst measured the (lack of) &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tied-soldered.html&quot;&gt;change from tying and soldering&lt;/a&gt; but apparently not the change from lacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to relace a wheel this weekend and I'll consider lacing it as suggested. Mostly because it's a low-cost experiment for me (symmetric hub gear wheel, so easy to relace) and I'm curious. Currently it's breaking spokes at the nipple because the holes in the rim are not angled correctly, so I'll be fixing that too. But unless the pattern is a disaster it will take a few years years to find out whether it's any good (I only do 5000-6000km/year).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T04:13:56.123" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8437" CreationDate="2012-03-09T07:01:13.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back when shorts had real chamois, I used Vaseline (petroleum jelly) on the chamois all the time with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were doing it today, I think I'd go with lanolin.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lansinoh.com/products/hpa-lanolin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This brand works very well&lt;/a&gt; and is obviously very gentle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T07:01:13.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8460" CreationDate="2012-03-09T15:18:23.227" Score="2" ViewCount="1561" Body="&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, when using my bike with shimano sora brakes on the front and rear, the quick release will pop open during braking, reducing my braking power.  Is there some way to prevent this?  Is it likely that I have something adjusted improperly?  Do I just need to buy more durable brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a note: I am using these brakes on the bike I use for bike polo, so often times, I am jamming the brakes very hard to stop quickly after a sprint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T21:19:41.767" Title="The quick release on my shimano sora brakes pops open during braking" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-03-09T16:49:04.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for tight spandex road biking shorts, something important to keep in mind is the &lt;strong&gt;number of fabric panels&lt;/strong&gt; that make up the pants/shorts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because pants shift and move while pedaling. The more fabric panels there are, the more comfortable and unnoticeable the shifting will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T16:49:04.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8453" CreationDate="2012-03-09T17:02:00.033" Score="6" ViewCount="1406" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my road bike, I have an old Cateye odometer and the sensor is in the front wheel. Therefore, when on my trainer, I can pedal away all day long and the odometer doesn't have any mileage added to it since the front wheel doesn't spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I sell my bike someday, I want to be able to say &quot;It has XXXX miles on it.&quot; But all the miles I put on it while on the trainer I can't keep track of. Is that negligible or do trainer miles not really count as mileage on the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a Garmin setup where the sensor will be on the rear wheel by the chain stays, which would solve the problem but I just haven't put it on yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastEditorUserId="2357" LastEditDate="2012-03-09T17:12:50.457" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T02:37:27.187" Title="Should mileage on a trainer be considered mileage on the bike?" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8451" CreationDate="2012-03-09T17:34:52.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mileage is mileage regardless of how it was incurred.However I think most people are more concerned with condition than miles.Five thousand miles of downhill with maintainence donsn't compare with 500 miles on a bike path while left in the rain and no maintainence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2012-03-09T18:31:06.917" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T18:31:06.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8451" CreationDate="2012-03-09T17:49:51.110" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bikes I've looked at (and purchased) via craigslist and other online listings don't usually state miles, just condition. I think most bicycle owners don't have odometers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mileage I keep track of is more for my own knowledge and maintenance scheduling. Keeping track of when I change the chain, or how long tires last type of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I won't get another sensor that only works on the front wheel, as I like the feedback (speed, time, mileage, cadence of my workout) when I'm on the trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T17:49:51.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="488" CreationDate="2012-03-09T18:56:25.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are primarily two types of low-end consumer trainers: &lt;em&gt;Magnetic Trainers&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Fluid trainers&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mag Trainers&lt;/strong&gt; - Uses Magnets to alter the resistance. Rider typically uses a handheld controller that is connected to the trainer to adjust the magnets/resistance while on the bike. Cheap trainers are typically Mag trainers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fluid Trainers&lt;/strong&gt; - Uses actual fluid enclosed in the trainer assembly to alter the resistance. The &quot;harder&quot; you pedal, the higher the resistance is automatically increased. No handheld controller necessary. These are more convenient than Mag trainers but also more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T18:56:25.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8449" CreationDate="2012-03-09T19:02:29.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I see it, you have two main options.  The first is that you buy new/better brakes, the second is that you adjust the cable tension so that the brakes function correctly in the &quot;open&quot; position.  This will kill the &quot;quick release&quot; functionality, but should otherwise function correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T19:02:29.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8457" CreationDate="2012-03-09T20:33:56.080" Score="5" ViewCount="12131" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of our bikes is an electric bike.  It's an older &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.izipusa.com/26-izip-hg1000-electric-bike.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;iZip HG 1000&lt;/a&gt;, and although we got it through the American &quot;manufacturer&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.currietech.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Currie Technologies&lt;/a&gt;), like most of the low-end ebikes it's made in China of heavy steel and uses cheap, cheap, cheap components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear brake is called a belt brake or band brake.  When I was researching this a bit, I came across a discussion that said this type of brake is something like 20 cents cheaper than V-Brakes to manufacture in bulk, which is why it shows up on this type of bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple pics: just the brake and then one mounted on a bike (not our bike):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NbKHF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;belt brake&quot;&gt; &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pU8iL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;belt brake on bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, now that I look closely at the pictures, I can see part of why it's cheap - no special frame fittings needed.  The donut-shaped &quot;drum&quot; mounts to the hub, the other piece just fits over that drum and is clamped to the seat stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that the thing squeals like a banshee.  There's no pad adjustment as there would be for cantilevers, the only adjustment is how tight the belt starts.  If I loosen it enough to stop the squealing, there's not enough pull to actually stop the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any adjustment I could do to get rid of the squealing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T00:00:24.753" Title="How can I stop a belt brake (band brake) from squealing?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8456" CreationDate="2012-03-09T20:52:09.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That style of drum brake relies on friction between steel and leather. If it is setup to stop reasonably well, they will always make some noise. Quite often, when new, they do indeed howl like Baoine Sidhe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will get better with use. From the photos, it appears your brakes are fairly new? Assuming that they are actual photos of your bike...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubbing talcum powder into the leather strap will help quiet the brake, but it may also have an adverse effect on your braking performance. Best to let it work out naturally, with time and use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T20:52:09.350" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8451" CreationDate="2012-03-09T21:02:05.483" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to worry about the mileage for resale value. So, don't bother to track trainer miles for other than your own purposes. Seriously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you can't prove mileage; unlike a car, a bike doesn't have a built-in odometer. The &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; determination of bicycle mileage is whether or not the owner tracked it or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For resale value, keep the bike in good condition (as others have said). That is, no dents, few or no scratches, no rust, etc. An obviously well maintained bike will get a much better price on the used market than one that looks crappy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T21:02:05.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8192" CreationDate="2012-03-09T21:11:29.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If, by &quot;a straight swap&quot; you mean &quot;Can I change only the crank set, and no other parts, then the answer is in short, no, it will not be a straight swap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I read the question correctly, you are currently using a 52/39 double designed for 9 speed, and you want to install a 10 speed triple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A triple shifter has 5 positions, not 3, because it requires additional &quot;trim&quot; positions which move the derailleur without actually shifting gears. This prevents the chain from rubbing as you get closer to extreme chain line angles. (Shifting into very large or very small cogs on both the front and rear gears at the same time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this job with 10 speed, you will need to change your shifters, front dérailleur &#xA;, rear dérailleur, cassette, chain, crankset, and possibly bottom bracket bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use 9 speed, you will save the cassette, rear dérailleur, and possibly rear shifter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume your purpose is to get easier climbing type gears? If so, consider using a compact double (50/34), possibly combined with a different cassette on the rear of the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should get you quite a lot better gearing, and will only require changing the crank itself, and readjusting the gears on your front derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T21:11:29.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8449" CreationDate="2012-03-09T21:19:41.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Sora brakes, if adjusted correctly, it should not be possible to force open the wheel release lever by applying the brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely, your brakes are adjusted too tight to allow the lever to close completely. Try releasing a few millimeters of cable, and see if the problem continues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does, you may have a damaged or defective brake. Take it to your LBS, and have it checked out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T21:19:41.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8456" CreationDate="2012-03-09T23:25:31.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with this drum set up but with similar industrial applications centering the brake band is critical.I would measure from the inner brake surface to the inside of the housing.Do this at several points.If it is off center one side makes contact and the otherside vibrates causeing the noise.Cleaning of the drum surface is important,try alcohol.If the brake material is leather Idont know what to clean it with.If it an organic material sand lightly with medium sand paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T23:25:31.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8000" CreationDate="2012-03-10T03:22:07.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For not much more than that ($600 dollars), you could put a new Tiagra 10 speed group on the bike. So in my opinion, no, that is not a good price for those components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if they were unused, it would be a high price. You are the only one who can make that value judgement, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you want the vintage look and feel? Are the components unused? Do you think it's worth close to the same money as a newer, better quality group set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it may be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T03:22:07.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8272" CreationDate="2012-03-10T03:26:29.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is an unbranded wheel from Taiwan, it is one of 2 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A quality wheel from a reputable brand being sold grey market. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A quick and dirty design Made up so that somebody can make a fast buck on th Internet. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the quality of the hubs and spokes referenced, in this case, it is the second option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't buy those wheels. You will likely regret the purchase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T03:26:29.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8451" CreationDate="2012-03-10T13:45:43.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed, there are some independent factors to consider when the bike is to be sold (or bought). I think mileage is not the most important since, as mikes has written, you can ride a lot while taking care, or can almost never ride while the bike rots in a basement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for condition, I think painting is a very valued item in a bike, not only for it's direct show factor, but also because, usually, bikes with lots of scratches possibly had other types of misuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important factor, although not so visible one, is the stress to which the parts have been submitted. For a rigid mountainbike, for exemple, use in harsh trails or roads create stresses that might induce fatigue o frame, fork, handlebars and crank arms (mostly), overload bearings, and stress rims and spokes. Again, by visual analysis one can have a rough measure of the &quot;stress condition&quot; of the bike. In the other hand, road bikes usually get less dirt, but can get a lot of abuse, for exemple, by riding rough roads with superinflated tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, one almost invisible factor is &quot;has the bike suffered a crash?&quot;. A violent one could induce micro-cracks that would only show negative results much time later, even if there is no visible damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your question, I think the trainer miles souldn't count, since they're mileage on very controlled conditions, and could only affect drivetrain, being mostly useful for maintainence schedule, and for personal training purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T13:45:43.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8753" CreationDate="2012-03-10T14:13:20.470" Score="4" ViewCount="1240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke the pedal of an old french bike (Peugeut Mixte 70's). The threading doesn't fit the one in modern pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am wondering if I should insist in finding an old french pedal or if I should rethread the pedal support in order to be able to use modern pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though, I am a bit scared about rethreading. Can it really be done safely? Is the space between threads the same? Has anyone here done this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1290" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T19:34:16.990" Title="Broken pedal on an old french bike" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8451" CreationDate="2012-03-10T14:40:28.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'd say &quot;The bike has XXX road miles and about YYY miles on a trainer.&quot;  You can guestimate how many hours you spent on the trainer and work backwards from there to miles.  Probably only accurate within a factor of 2 or so, but that's all that's needed (if, indeed you need even that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T14:40:28.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8465" CreationDate="2012-03-10T14:42:33.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/velos.html#pedal&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Older French bicycles used a different, smaller diameter where the&#xA;  pedal screws into the crank, 14 mm x 1.25 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The vast majority of French bicycles imported into the U.S. used&#xA;  standard 9/16&quot; x 20 tpi crank threading, but if you find an older&#xA;  bicycle that was bought in France, you may run into this problem. The&#xA;  French-thread cranks can be tapped out to 9/16&quot;. This is much easier&#xA;  (and more worth the trouble) with aluminum cranks. Start the taps from&#xA;  the inside of the cranks,so any possible thread damage occurs where it&#xA;  doesn't matter. French pedals will often be marked &quot;G&quot; (Gauche=left)&#xA;  and &quot;D&quot; (Droite=right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T14:42:33.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8465" CreationDate="2012-03-10T14:45:51.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a pedal can be reliably enlarged and retreaded, assuming there is enough metal surrounding the original threaded hole. Most good shops have taps for 1/2&quot; and 9/16&quot; pedals, which are the 2 modern standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The older French standard is 14mm with a 1.25mm pitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to tap out 14mm to 9/16&quot; without issue, if you have the tools and a steady hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you use the correct tap for the correct crank arm, as the left arm is reverse threaded.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T14:45:51.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8475" CreationDate="2012-03-10T15:48:46.810" Score="2" ViewCount="4408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought these rims off eBay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercian-built-Wolber-rims-Shimano-hubs-vintage-27-inch-good-condition-/270921291817?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;amp;hash=item3f142ad829#ht_500wt_1401&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercian-built-Wolber-rims-Shimano-hubs-vintage-27-inch-good-condition-/270921291817?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;amp;hash=item3f142ad829#ht_500wt_1401&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've fitted a 27 1/4 tyre to the front, no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the rear only accepts a 28in Tyre, and the 27 is too big...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this? And what size would this make the rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've gathered here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/desktopdefault.aspx?tabid=3802&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ctc.org.uk/desktopdefault.aspx?tabid=3802&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would appear that some 28 tyres fit onto rims with smaller diameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, that raises a new question, why would Mercian sell a pair of wheels with different size rims? - Or wouldn't they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3559" LastEditorUserId="3559" LastEditDate="2012-03-10T17:11:24.973" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T23:56:37.290" Title="Why does a 28 1/3 tyre fit, when a 27 1/4 tyre is too big?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8456" CreationDate="2012-03-10T16:20:43.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there are no V-brake stanchions it is possible to retrofit V-brakes if you use an adapter (you can search for these on Google).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adapters are normally intended for BMX bikes but I have successfully used on on the rear for a bamboo bike I built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3624" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T16:20:43.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8469" CreationDate="2012-03-10T16:53:43.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the tires removed the wheels should be the same height when stood next to each other.In the picture it is dfficult to tell because of the lean.If you are installing   tires of different styles or manufacturers one may be more difficult than the other to mount but still be the correct size.Take the tire that would mount and see if it will fit on the other wheel.If they don't fit you may have a Dutch wheel which were 28&quot;It has a bead seat diameter of 642mm also called 700,700a or 700b not to be confused with the modern standard 700c.this sitehttp://casanovasadventures.com/catalog/bike/p2010.has auseful page on wheel sizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T16:53:43.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8484" CreationDate="2012-03-10T19:58:35.233" Score="9" ViewCount="99371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at a carbon framed road bikethat has me concerned.On the topside of the bottom bracket,drive side there is a very small hairline crack in the paint.The seller states that it has been there for two years with no change.He was told by the dealer that it is just in the paint and a fairly common occurence.Anyone else experienced this?It is a three year old cervelo.The crack is 3/4 inch long and you can't feel it with a fingernail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T16:01:57.963" Title="How to tell if a carbon frame is damaged or if the paint just has stress cracks" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8472" CreationDate="2012-03-10T23:30:42.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't feel it with a fingernail, the crack &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; isn't in the carbon. Another trick is to whack the tube with a quarter over and around the crack. Do the same at a similar location that doesn't have a crack. If there are any differences in sound, the frame has probably sustained damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I bought a bike with very similar circumstances in December. I used a piece of tape to mark the beginning and end of the crack, so I can watch for any expansion. No movement so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T23:30:42.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8472" CreationDate="2012-03-10T23:38:44.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The BB and head tube are some of the thickest carbon parts. Listen to sound differences around it, but I think these areas would be some of the last places to crack. Most cracks would occur either at a junction, thin spot, like middle of the down tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the crack you see has no marring, chipping or other damage on either side, its probably superficial. Cracks caused by outside forces (impact) would leave other evidence on the paint, like scuffs, chips, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T23:38:44.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8469" CreationDate="2012-03-10T23:56:37.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;European ISO 622mm (AKA 700c) tires are often labeled as 28&quot; tires.  Confusingly, the very rare 635mm tire is also labeled 28&quot;.  This is unfortunate and leads to much confusion.  The common 27&quot; tires are ISO 630mm, which means that you will almost always find that tires labeled as 28&quot; are actually smaller in diameter than those labeled as 27&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sizing system for bicycle tires is a confusing mixture of &quot;standards&quot; from different companies and nations.  The definitive &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown tire sizing article&lt;/a&gt; has more detail than you'll likely ever need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your 27&quot; (630mm) tire is slightly too big for your rim, it's likely that the rim is 622mm.  It's probably worthwhile to visit your LBS; there are lots of standards and when it comes to tires you definitely want to make sure they are properly fitted.  Having a tire come off the rim while riding is an unpleasant experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As commented above, the difference in sizes between the wheels is probably because the wheelset didn't originate as a pair and came from different sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T23:56:37.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8511" CreationDate="2012-03-11T02:41:00.283" Score="7" ViewCount="59083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride about 17 miles each session. After the ride, the outside of my hips sore: only the parts near the outermost joints, most likely the tendon (although this is only a guess). My knees are fine, my ankles are fine, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that might not fit perfectly for me is the seat height. I'd rather have a longer post so I can lift the seat up an inch or two. Do you think this might create the soreness in the area of the outer hips? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3628" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-03-11T17:36:11.710" LastActivityDate="2017-10-28T02:02:34.653" Title="What do I do wrong to get hip aches after biking?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8472" CreationDate="2012-03-11T06:01:03.460" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Markus Storck, lead engineer and owner of German carbon frame powerhouse Storck Bicycles, told me at a conference about 3 months ago that the best ways to tell if a frame is cracked are movement and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Movement, because a crack will flex if it's through the paint into the carbon, and you put pressure on the center of the crack, and time, because a crack will grow with time if it's more than paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are even halfway concerned with a crack, don't buy the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's just not worth the risk, unless you can afford to be wrong about the frame's ride-ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-11T13:38:22.757" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T13:38:22.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8478" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-11T16:58:16.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick-release (QR) fittings are most commonly found on wheel axles, but also on saddle-post fittings. They replace nuts and bolts where you want to be able to remove the wheels by hand. A QR fitting comprises a &lt;em&gt;skewer&lt;/em&gt; going through the fitting, a hand-operated nut at one end for gross adjustment of the tension, and a lever on a cam at the other. When the nut is hand-tight, closing the lever provides enough compression to keep the fitting secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some QR fittings replace the lever with some kind of keyhole, so that the fitting can only be released with the proper key. This makes opportunistic theft of the wheel or saddle much less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term &quot;quick-release&quot; is also used by manufacturers (but not usually by cyclists) to describe any fitting that can be undone by hand, for instance of a light or a saddle-bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information can be found on Wikipedia: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quick_release&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quick_release&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2012-03-11T22:47:24.747" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T22:47:24.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8479" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-11T16:58:16.967" Score="0" Body="Fittings, usually for wheels and saddle-posts, with a lever at one end so you can open them by hand, instead of using a spanner." OwnerUserId="3512" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2012-03-11T22:47:27.693" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T22:47:27.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-11T17:21:41.120" Score="3" ViewCount="1145" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought a Trek Allant for cycling to work (ca 10 miles). Now, after exact 512 miles the chain is worn out and starts damaging the cassette and chainset. Cheap crap material!&#xA;Is there anything out there that will last a bit longer? - SRAM-7 chain?&#xA;Or shall I look out for an offer for a 8-gear set and change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Response to comments below:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks for your replies. I bought the Trek Allant brand new (2011) and I am using the bike for daily commuting to work, tarmac all the way. Most of it is flat apart from a bridge that has two 'medium steep' slopes. I clean the bike (incl chain) every two weeks and also give it a 'health check'. The chain gets lubricated with PTFE. I used the chain wear indicator (park tool) to check the chain and it's well over .75%. In addition the chain cassette shows signs of wear too. My cycle style is 'higher strokes' in a lower gear. I cycle for years and also have a Cannondale T1000 Touring bike that I bought back in the 90s. With that I do about 800-1200 miles on vacation, and have to change chains about once every two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect the parts used on the Allant being of somewhat lower quality than those of a high-end bike, but I was just very surprised that the chain life is that short. Apart from the hassle of changing, the price for a 7-gear SRAM chain and cassette comes to a total of ~$30 (together) here in the UK. I may build up some stock ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again for your comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3630" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-16T07:36:39.053" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T07:36:39.053" Title="Better 7-speed chain for Trek Allant?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-11T19:37:07.810" Score="2" ViewCount="1722" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the rear wheel (26x2) on my Electra Townie 7d broke its axle, and I ended up replacing it with a new 26x1.5 wheel, that being what the LBS had in stock. The bike seems a bit faster, which is nice, BUT I find myself cruising in sixth gear (of seven) on flat terrain, and sissy gear is no longer usable at all, even on hills -- the gear doesn't seem to bite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do about this, short of replacing the new wheel with another 26x2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T04:53:05.127" Title="Townie gearing suddenly too easy" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8481" CreationDate="2012-03-11T19:57:13.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if I got it wrong, but to me it seems that what you describe as a problem is in fact a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is expected to get a SUBSTANTIALLY faster bike if you replace a tire, because of tire quality, rubber compound, thread pattern, pressure, etc.&#xA;1.5 size, comparing to 2.0, is a specially much more efficient tire measure, which would for sure make the difference you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting &quot;the result&quot; (bicycle is moving) with less effort, and the old gearing seems inadequate, I would suggest you to update the gearing, for example, getting a bigger chainring (not TOO bigger), and keep going faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to spend, you can just enjoy less effort for the same speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind wider tires might be more comfortable due to cushion, and more resistant to impact-induced flat tires, because they have larger air volumes. But except if you don't feel the bike right, consider to keep the narrow tire (perhaps exchange also the front one) and enjoy a new level of cruise speed at lower efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T19:57:13.880" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8481" CreationDate="2012-03-11T20:21:08.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the axle broke did it damage the freewheel or cassette?I believe the original cassette was a 14-34,14 teeth on the smallest gear-34teeth on the largest. When they replaced your wheel did you get a new cassette that was different?There is also the possibility that the bearings were bad, causing the axle failure and producing so much drag that now it feels like there is much less effort to pedal.You could relace the cassette with one tha has better road gearing such as 11-28 or 12-32.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2012-03-11T20:55:24.190" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T20:55:24.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8472" CreationDate="2012-03-11T20:29:49.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why don't you take the bike to a Cervelo dealer and have them check it out?If the seller of the bike is being honest with you it shouldn't be a problem&gt; Last year I had a horriffic crash with my Trek Madone going over 20mph and the only damage my frame sustained was a small chip in the frame. otherwise the frame is perfectly sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3632" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T20:29:49.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-11T20:48:19.000" Score="6" ViewCount="1502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Electra Townie 7d, and I'm quite fond of her (sorry, I do anthropomorphize my bike) as a commuter and farmer's-market hauler, but I'd like a more efficient bike for afternoon-trips (say, 50 miles round-trip), mostly on rails-to-trails with gravel or dirt surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done 40 miles on the Townie, but it's harder than I think it needs to be. She's slow (I sometimes have trouble keeping up with my husband on his Trek FX), she absolutely loathes even slight uphill inclines, and because so much of my weight is thrown backward, the longer rides give me a numb butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hefty. Figure me + gear + water = 250 lbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Casual rider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forty. FORGET about anything but a relatively upright position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not great at bike maintenance (I can fix a flat, change brake pads, and adjust my saddle... that's about it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think I'm looking for (feel free to disagree):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something in the hybrid/fitness/touring line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminum frame (I don't trust myself to maintain steel properly; also, my Townie is heavily scratched, so...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No fancy &quot;suspension&quot; forks, please.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Women's geometry (mixte or step-through a plus, but not required)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight handlebars, possibly with upright bar-ends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality components and minimal maintenance a HUGE plus. Internal hub, maybe?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braze-ons for two bottle cages and a rear rack (I'm old; on day trips I carry first aid for the bike AND for me...) Rear fender a plus, but I can live with a mudguard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What bike models might work? How do I best eliminate models that won't? Let's say a maximum of USD$3000 for price, but cheaper would be fabulous. Please also rec good components that I should be looking at, considering my weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-05-24T10:27:50.323" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T13:01:03.337" Title="Day-trip bike for hefty 40-year-old woman?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8485" CreationDate="2012-03-11T21:16:37.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any standard non-racing bike can handle 250 pounds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can handle those maintenance items you're better than the average cyclist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's no extra maintenance required for a steel vs aluminum frame -- it takes decades for rust to damage a steel frame even if left outside most of the time.  An aluminum frame, being a softer metal, is somewhat more easily damaged (though the difference is probably negligible in normal conditions).  But aluminum may be 2-3 pounds lighter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're having trouble keeping up with your hubby you probably want something with a few more gears.  An internal gear hub likely is a step in the wrong direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think basically you just want a good quality &quot;hybrid&quot;.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/827861/cannondale-quick-3-womens-bike-2012&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cannondale Quick 3&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, would meet most of your requirements, though there are no doubt a dozen others.  The only real problem with the Quick 3 is that it's got 700C wheels and, depending on your height, you might be better off with a 26&quot; wheel.  Unfortunately, good women's bikes in smaller sizes are a rarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-03-12T01:42:48.303" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T01:42:48.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8489" CreationDate="2012-03-12T00:13:38.033" Score="50" ViewCount="5287" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the general rules when encountering a mounted rider (on a horse) on a trail? I understand if we are approaching each other I would dismount, move to the side of the trail and allow them to pass. However if we are traveling in the same direction and I am overtaking them (say going down hill) how would you alert the rider and not startle the horse? I have not yet come upon a rider on my regular trails but I have noticed an increase in road &quot;apples&quot;, so I know it is inevitable.I have heard that dismounting is important as the horse may not recognize you as a person due to the unusal movement(from the horses perspective). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T22:37:08.377" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T12:15:12.100" Title="What is the proper etiquette for overtaking a horse?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;&lt;trails&gt;&lt;animals&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2012-03-12T02:22:23.740" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Officially: Bikes yield to hikers and horses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hikers are fine, if you call it out and pass when safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horses can spook easily. Once you see it, stop. Wait for the rider to signal you by. Often I have been simply asked to walk my bike by. Easy. Sometimes it's best to just wait for them to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation, I would get within 10 - 20 yards, and call out the rider, asking if it's okay to pass, or if they mind stopping to wait for you to walk by. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="3639" LastEditDate="2012-03-12T23:09:20.293" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T23:09:20.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2012-03-12T03:32:04.407" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Passing a horse, mounted or otherwise, should be done so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very slowly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as quiet as possible.  If you have a loud freehub, pedal slowly -- do your best not to coast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with as much space &amp;amp; consideration as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no sudden movements &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;limit the number of cyclists going past&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends on the horses' temperament.  Some are OK, some like cars but not bicycles...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Generally, horses with kids/teenagers riding them on the road will be pretty laid back.  The horses that are being led by someone are much more suspect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Competent equestrian owners/staff know that any horse [that will be taken or ridden on roads] needs to be exposed very carefully (for the safety of the horse, the rider, and the general public).  They have to accept that the horse may never be comfortable in that setting.  But anything could spook the most experienced horse - you never know 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, send a single person ahead to talk to who has control of the horse while watching how the horse reacts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastEditorUserId="2735" LastEditDate="2012-03-13T02:14:30.780" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T02:14:30.780" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8485" CreationDate="2012-03-12T06:25:39.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/global/en/products/221848008/bike-venture-10-l/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Venture series from Scott&lt;/a&gt;. Designed as the ultimate touring hybrid, they are fast, agile, low maintenance, and strong. They are more aggressively positioned than your Electra, but not a forward as a hard tail mountain bike or a road bike would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link is to the new Venture 10, which is pictured below. The bike comes as pictured, with racks, fenders, and lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVG0H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Venture 10&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want racks and fenders, look at their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/global/en/products/221820007/bike-sub-10-m/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SUB series&lt;/a&gt;, pictured below. Same bike, no racks, fenders, or lights included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lHgwz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scott SUB 10&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several levels of components and prices, and they offer WSD versions of the SUB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T06:25:39.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2012-03-12T13:57:22.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the horses are being ridden on the road, then I'd overtake them like I would do when driving: with plenty of space, not too much fuss, and slow enough to stop easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T13:57:22.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2012-03-12T15:14:47.737" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definetly negotiate for a lower price. In these hard times it should be expected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That does not mean you are a &quot;weasel&quot; or a &quot;thief&quot;...Are you kidding me? Pay top dollar if you choose (car dealers must love you). A company needs to earn my business. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said I do my research as others have mentioned above. Whilst shopping for a bike I would visit at least five bike shops. Some will offer; lifetime service/tune-ups, a rewards program, or a discount if you buy multiple bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do my best to negotiate a price based on the competitions prices/discounts/specials. I would absolutely prefer the bike shop closest to my home, so I actually create a chart showing what the other bike shops are offering to show the sales rep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they cannot match the Service Warranty, rewards, or otherwise they will drop the price of the bike itself or give me a great deal on accessories. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because the tag has a price on it does not mean it is final. A Bike shop is still a business, and I am still a customer. I am going to try and get the best price I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3636" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T15:14:47.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2012-03-12T16:25:45.537" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever you pass a horse, whether walking the bike or rolling, make sure to stay well clear of the hind end. Horses spook easily and may instinctively kick if something approaches them from behind that they can't see or see very well. I'd suggest staying outside of 4 metres/yards behind, or 2 metres/yards to the side of any strange horse no matter how tame or well-trained it may appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3637" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T16:25:45.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2012-03-12T17:15:25.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get your kid a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6XDbhUaeBQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gyrobike&lt;/a&gt;. They are actually really amazing. Training wheels just hinder the learning process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T17:15:25.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2012-03-12T17:17:00.357" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one has mentioned it here, but horse owners and llama-packers and mule riders have ALL commented to me :  PLEASE STAY BELOW THE ANIMAL AT ALL TIMES WHEN YIELDING OR OVERTAKING.  These animals get more spooked by threats from above, (where the threat looks larger or looks like they can pounce) then from below (where the threat seems much smaller).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T17:17:00.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2012-03-12T20:16:03.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say enough about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikepedia.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bikepedia.com&lt;/a&gt; as a resource. Most bikes made in the last 15 years are listed. Most will have the original selling price and specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times a seller will present a bike as being five years old based on how long they have owned it when in fact it maybe six years old. Bikepedia can help with this as some colors or components were only offered certain years. This is very helpful when comparing bike A to bike B after you get home and are making your mind up because you can't afford both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One cardinal sin is to head to your LBS, take up an hour or two of his time, test ride his bike, then complain about the price and buy it online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T21:10:58.680" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T21:10:58.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-12T20:34:47.253" Score="3" ViewCount="20610" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much procrastination, I've finally jumped in and bought myself a road bike, under the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycle2work.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycle2work scheme&lt;/a&gt; we have here in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opted for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_789253_categoryId_165710_langId_-1?cm_sp=Intelligent_Offer-_-Product_Details_Zone_1-_-Blank&amp;amp;iozone=PDPz1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boardman Road Race&lt;/a&gt;, as it seems to be the most affordable entry level road racer. Since my commute is 20 miles one way (aiming for twice a week to start with) I've been advised to invest in some SPD-SL pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never used a road bike, or SPD-SLs for that matter, however from what I can tell there are two types of cleats, floating (which give a little movement sideways) and fixed (no sideways movement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For such a commute, which type would be most suited? I'm thinking that floating probably for the extra range of movement which could be more comfortable for a longer commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything in it? Or is it just down to user preference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. Any reason &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270894254114?ssPageName=STRK%3aMESINDXX%3aIT&amp;amp;_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649#ht_1955wt_952&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these pedals/cleats&lt;/a&gt; would not be compatible with the above bike? Or are pedals universally OK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2012-03-18T16:22:54.183" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T09:49:08.890" Title="Are fixed or floating SPD-SL cleats most suitable for a long commute?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5846" CreationDate="2012-03-12T20:42:24.457" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, 'barefoot' shoes are good for walking/running, etc.; therefore, not stiff enough for pushing on pedals comfortably.  Using 'clipless' shoes without a cleat provides a stiff sole, but a thick one.  Before these thick, clipless cleat shoes became ubiquitous, there were &quot;cycle touring shoes&quot; that were both stiff and &lt;em&gt;thin soled&lt;/em&gt;.  They also had relatively smooth soles, good for adjusting your position on the pedal, not the heavily lug soles of modern cleated, clipless shoes. I am still looking for these thin soled cycle touring shoes.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T20:42:24.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-12T21:01:14.650" Score="1" ViewCount="1549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for the type of &quot;cycle touring shoe&quot; we had before cleated, clipless became the norm.  I have used clipless 'touring', i.e., non-racing, shoes without the cleat but the soles are thick to accomodate the inset cleat.  The old cycle touring shoes had thin soles and without the heavy lugging of modern clipless shoes meant for cleats.  Most cyclist don't use cleats.  Why can't we find cycle specific shoes for non-cleat use?  How about in the rest of the world where faux racing styles don't dominate as in North America?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T21:34:45.347" Title="thin-soled cycle touring shoes" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8499" CreationDate="2012-03-12T21:28:34.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.quocpham.com/products/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quoc Pham&lt;/a&gt; shoes are nice: they do recessed-cleat &quot;touring&quot; ones, but also plain leather shoes with thin, fairly rigid soles, suitable for flat pedals or toe clips &amp;amp; straps.  They seem to have a US distributor, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.missionworkshop.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mission Workshop&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dromarti.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dromarti&lt;/a&gt; ones advertised as well, but don't know about their distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exustar.com/product_detail.php?psn=34&amp;amp;level=2&amp;amp;t1s=11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;These&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exustar.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Exustar&lt;/a&gt; ones are apparently useable if you just leave the cleat cover in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vittoria-shoes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vittoria&lt;/a&gt; have the 1976, and seem to have a few US distributors, so they might be worth a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastEditorUserId="3311" LastEditDate="2012-03-12T21:34:45.347" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T21:34:45.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8476" CreationDate="2012-03-12T22:00:00.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might be inclined to try out a different saddle, look for a smoother route, or invest in wider tires (if your bike will accommodate them). If heltonbiker is correct (above), your bursae may be absorbing more shocks than they can handle, causing the pain you're feeling. If you're a woman riding on a man's saddle, consider looking for a women's saddle, as women's sit-bones are usually further apart than men's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're able to consult the medical establishment, it may be worth trying for a referral to a physical therapist. Lacking that, a good massage therapist can be a wonder-worker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! I hope you can get back to biking pain-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T22:00:00.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8503" CreationDate="2012-03-12T22:54:51.060" Score="7" ViewCount="4782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just want to replace my good old 50€ used Peugeot City Bike, that has served me well for the past year, but has some problems (like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6419/enhancing-brake-force-with-steel-rims-in-wet-conditions&quot;&gt;ribbed Steel Rims&lt;/a&gt;) that are hard to overcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want something that is very low maintenance, can be ridden in winter and in rain without needing much oil on the chain and brake maintenance. The brakes need to be very good, for fast but controlled city riding ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would include fenders, lightning, a luggage rack, the usual accessories. For shifting i am thinking about an internal hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still unsure which brakes i should choose. There are some low maintenance roller brakes, but how is their braking power? Should I keep using rim brakes despite their lower performance in winter? I guess disk brakes are not appropriate for low maintenance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also not sure about staying with the good old chain (encased, so it is protected from dirt) or if i should switch to belt drive. Is the belt drive really worth the extra money, or is it just a marketing fad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Peugeot had drop bars, but I guess I will drop them for standard city bike bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So question is: What should a bike that is to be bought for shopping and riding in the city consist of? Anything I have forgotten or not considered? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T10:11:30.697" Title="What to buy when looking for a low maintenance city bike that allows sportive riding" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8502" CreationDate="2012-03-12T23:50:53.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try to avoid rim brakes for a low-maintenance commuter bike, because they're not low maintenance. And they don't work very well in the rain. They're also not much cheaper than cheap disk brakes. It's not worth the price difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the roller brakes are less effective than disks or drums. The roller brakes don't bite, they're very gradual, and require a lot of force on the lever to lock a wheel. Which sounds desirable, but it means they work quite differently to other brakes. I found that when I had a cheap cable disk on the front and the roller on the back I tended to treat the roller brake as broken, since it didn't seem to work at all with normal braking force. They also need non-obvious maintenance, meaning that when something eventually went wrong I had to take them to the bike shop and wait for the one guy who knew about them to deal with the problem (worn pads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely look at hub gears - the reason your generic &quot;European bike with gears&quot; has hub gears is that they're low maintenance and very tolerant of abuse or neglect. The modern hubs mostly work very well (search this site for copious discussions). It's also much easier to build a fully enclosed chain with a hub gear setup. Which matters a lot in snowy weather. In the other Austr-something-a we get kangaroos and Shimano 8 or 11 speed hubs in a range of city bikes (Gazelle at the high end), and at the bottom end various 3 speed hubs. The three speed ones eventually need a new gear cable every 10 years or so, the 8 and 11 speed ones need cable adjustment and new cables more often. The Rohloff end need new oil every 5000km (no, really, it says so in the manual).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be worth looking at a hub dynamo setup. Yes, you pay quite a lot for the privilege of not changing the batteries in your cheap LED lights. But, you never have to worry about changing the batteries in your cheap LED lights. In practice I use both - LED blinkies on the handlebar, helmet and underseat, dyno lights above the front and rear wheels. But I never turn the dyno lights off (there's no real drag when riding), and I sometimes forget the blinkies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luggage carrying is a balance between weight and bulk, and how much you carry. If you can reduce your load to what will fit on a rack-top bag you only need a lightweight rack and don't have much air resistance (plus the load is centred on the bike). If you want to carry more you could use a basket, but for more people the question becomes: one pannier or two? One is lighter, cheaper, carries a bit less, but is off centre. With two you can balance the weight but you have more carrying capacity so you end up carrying more stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth buying expensive, waterproof panniers. Ortleib panniers. There are other, inferior brands, but unless it's an Ortleib or looks very much like one, I wouldn't buy it (just for the record, I'm a customer and don't benefit from any sales). After a couple of years an Ortleib will no longer be airtight, and after 10 it will probably leak a bit. My commuting panniers have quite a few holes at the bottom (but not at the top), and whatever is in the bottom gets wet when it rains. But they're (ahem) 20 years old. My good touring panniers (home-made Ortleib style) are 10 years old and don't leak... but they're huge and I don't use them as often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T23:50:53.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8497" CreationDate="2012-03-13T00:01:04.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer floating, mostly because they're easier to get in and out of. The extra half second at every traffic light, plus the problem that I'm not really moving or in good control of the bike for that time, means I prefer the easy-in option. If you are used to the low-float cleats then that may not be an issue, but I see very few cyclists in that category on my commute (most are the &quot;faff about while wobbling across the intersection&quot; type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all pedals have the same thread (some BMX and kids bikes use a visibly smaller thread, I've seen a Shimano one with a huge thread). Note that there's a left hand and a right hand thread. Don't get that wrong or you'll probably need new cranks. So yes, the pedals shown will work. The basic test is: if you can't turn the pedal into the crank with your fingers you've done it wrong. Clean the threads, check the direction, then try again. Only use a tool for the last 1/2 turn of tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T00:01:04.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8517" CreationDate="2012-03-13T00:05:57.290" Score="8" ViewCount="4209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to look for a new bike, and have grown accustomed to shopping online (or at least, pricing online) for just about everything I buy. One feature that makes online shopping especially appealing is the ability to search through an online database with constraints. For example, when shopping for a computer, I could start with all computers sold by an online retailer. Then I could filter out anything without 8GB of RAM. Then, from those, select just the machines with a certain processor, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I look around for bikes online, I cannot find any such database. For example, I'd like to be able to start with all models 2010-present, then select only those with internal gear hubs, then only those with 8 or more speeds, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question comes in two parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a database or online retailer like this?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If not, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:&#xA;I'm not opposed to supporting my LBS, but like to consider as many options as possible when making large purchases. In this case, I'd like to price out many different options and consider tradeoffs on price vs. functionality at home rather than at the shop, but would probably still buy there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-03-13T19:44:17.107" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T12:56:12.517" Title="Where are the Online Bike Databases?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;resource&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8472" CreationDate="2012-03-13T11:24:19.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbon-bike-check.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carbon-bike-check.com&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;AFAIK there is no other way to find structural issues in carbon frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else is just guesswork. &#xA;Even a competent dealer cannot look into the fibers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the frame is checked on the surface only, i wouldn't buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3655" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T11:24:19.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8502" CreationDate="2012-03-13T13:30:17.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/global/en/products/221848008/bike-venture-10-l/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;new Venture series from Scott&lt;/a&gt;. Designed as the ultimate touring hybrid, they are fast, agile, low maintenance, and strong. They are more aggressively positioned than most hybrids, but not as aggressive as a hard tail mountain bike or a road bike would be. It's a bike that was designed around the messenger concept. If you need to be on a bike which is fun to ride, but stable and comfortable all day, then there are much worse choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link is to the new Venture 10, which is pictured below, but there are several levels of components and prices. The bike comes as pictured, with racks, fenders, and lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RZx5w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2012 Scott Venture 10&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've partially reposted &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/8490/1259&quot;&gt;my answer from here&lt;/a&gt;, because it also fits this question well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T13:30:17.553" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3928" CreationDate="2012-03-13T14:05:47.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might have found a reason for your issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought pair of Pro3 tires yesterday and I've installed them right away. After a short test ride, I noticed that small debris from the road stick to the surface of the tires. I've read some reviews about Pro3, and several mentioned this as well. This stickiness could affect tire durability for even casual riding because sharp pieces stuck in one place have time to work themselves into the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3645" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2012-12-31T10:54:50.133" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T10:54:50.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="856" CreationDate="2012-03-13T14:17:20.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although there are great local groups, some things are best addressed by nationwide efforts. The vote in the US Senate over transportation funding - &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.bikeleague.org/blog/2012/03/senate-to-vote-on-map-21/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MAP-21&lt;/a&gt; - was publicized and lobbied over by groups like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeleague.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;League of American Cyclists&lt;/a&gt; - and I think that was instrumental in getting things changed for the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2924/which-are-bicycle-politicized-groups-or-advocate-groups&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; has answers which include organizations all around the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3644" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T14:17:20.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8476" CreationDate="2012-03-13T16:23:55.933" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have personally experienced that precise symptom, from mountain biking rides or from commuting rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I am not sure what causes it, I have observed that when it happens to me, I have ridden up steep inclines in &quot;too high&quot; gears while remaining seated or seated too far back on the saddle. For these reasons I have changed my pedaling technique a bit, using a lot more gearshifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can also recall that my problems appeared when I changed my saddle for a narrower one, so later I found that to accommodate my sit bone, I tended to sit further back, so I could catch a wider part of the saddle. No doubt I changed my saddle's fore/aft position by half an inch towards the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some rare occasions I have gotten hip pain from riding in too tight, non stretching pants, like jeans, specially carrying objects in my pockets. I suspect the problem here is the pressure the clothing excepts over the hip joint while flexing up the leg. Objects like phone, keys or tools in the pockets make this worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if any of these issues is affecting you and, if you find so, try changing one thing at a time, to see if something helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T16:23:55.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8514" CreationDate="2012-03-13T18:09:00.040" Score="22" ViewCount="82147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this question must have already been answered somewhere here, but it doesn't show up in any search results I make...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm changing the pedals on a 40 year old bike. Pretty sure the pedals are original. The left one came off fine. Unfortunately, I got the thread directions mixed up and &lt;em&gt;tightened&lt;/em&gt; the right one by mistake!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the right pedal won't come off at all. When I apply force to the pedal wrench (in the correct, counter-clockwise direction), the crank just backs up, and the pedal doesn't budge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Short of making the trek to my LBS (which is a little out of the way) what are some ways I could try to get the pedal unstuck?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there some way to immobilise the crank? I don't think I have the tools necessary to take the arm off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things already tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Penetrating oil in the screw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hammering the wrench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I don't have the equipment for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heating the screw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lengthening the wrench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: An additional note: It seems the reason the pedal wouldn't come out is that there's something wrong with the threads on the crank. I can't get the old or my new pedal to go in past the second turn. Going to have to take it to the LBS anyway...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="2513" LastEditDate="2012-03-14T05:46:25.983" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T03:26:10.597" Title="Removing a stuck pedal" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8512" CreationDate="2012-03-13T18:44:43.647" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lengthening the wrench is your best bet.  You don't need anything fancy, find a bit of pipe at your local hardware shop that fits over the wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch your fingers.  While trying to remove a tricky pedal, it gave suddenly and my knuckles hit the teeth of the chain ring.  It was a daft and bloody mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-07-30T20:35:21.670" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T20:35:21.670" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8512" CreationDate="2012-03-13T18:47:46.257" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to use mechanical advantage to your benefit. What you want to do is line the wrench up with the opposite crank, so that your hands are as close together as possible, now straddle the frame and force the two apart. Here's an image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/pedal-installation-and-removal-pw-3-pw-4-pw-5-hcw-16&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park's description of how to remove a pedal&lt;/a&gt; that illustrates it well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PquPQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pedal removal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst position for the wrench is 180 degrees opposite, so that the crank and the pedal are still parallel, but opposite. It will be almost impossible to remove a pedal in this orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct that the drive side pedal will have a normal thread, and needs to be turned counterclockwise for removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It generally takes a lot of force to remove pedals, because they tighten themselves as you ride due to precession. If you find this method still isn't working, refer to Scott's answer about lengthening your tool to gain leverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-06-05T14:31:23.993" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T14:31:23.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8512" CreationDate="2012-03-13T18:59:54.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, I've tried several tricks to remember which way to turn the wrench on which side, and he only rule that I can consistently remember is use the rule that rotating &quot;forward&quot; as if it was a wheel of the bicycle tightens the pedals and rotating &quot;backward&quot; loosens them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your pedals are standard size you should be using a 15mm pedal wrench. This wrench will normally have a longer handle for leverage.  My trick is to orient the crank so that it is a close to parallel to the ground as the angle of the &quot;nut&quot; will allow, put the wrench on with the handle toward the back of the bike and press down.  If you have a partner who can apply pressure to the other crank arm that might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cases of a particularly stuck pedal I have used a rubber mallet to whack the handle of the wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that if you have an aluminum crank, you can remove the crank arm and heat the pedal end over an open flame.  The aluminum will expand an you should be able to remove the pedal easily, but I have never had to go that far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T18:59:54.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8505" CreationDate="2012-03-13T20:22:33.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps your best option is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/gearfinder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gear Finder provided by Bicycling Magazine&lt;/a&gt;.  They have various bikes organized by type, price, and some sub-details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why you don't see the same types of databases that you see for computer products, this is because the people who actually make these things (computer programmers) are much more likely to be interested in computers (as a product) than bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T20:22:33.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8512" CreationDate="2012-03-13T20:26:30.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a very rough drawing which already helped me to release a singlespeed cog, using three wrenches: one for the locknut, one chainlink-bar to lock the cog itself, and another bulky one BETWEEN both, in which I applied the actual force. I had to hold everything very firmly in place, and wrapping things with rubber might be helpful to avoid getting hurt and to help apply the &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; force in the right place, the right way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this rough drawing, the extra wrench (actually might be any metal bar) goes inserted in the chainring/crank-arm recesses, and is used to leverage the 15mm spanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you would get everything in the best initial position as possible. Don't forget to use WD-40 some time before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q9sYU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:57:55.580" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:57:55.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2012-03-13T21:05:39.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this free app for measuring your heart rate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sports Heart Rate Monitor&#xA;see:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.js.hr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.js.hr&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you do not need any external hardware and it measures your heart rate quickly. You just need to press it softly against your chest and it will readout your beats per minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3652" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T21:05:39.063" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-13T21:05:39.063" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8476" CreationDate="2012-03-13T21:52:19.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only thing that might not fit perfectly for me is the seat height. I'd rather have a longer post so I can lift the seat up an inch or two. Do you think this might create the soreness in the area of the outer hips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saddle height might be your issue. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;You say, that you'd rather raise the saddle height up an inch or two&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Apparently, you don't feel comfortable with your saddle height. Why don't you change your saddle height by increments? See if the pain goes away, if so, you solved your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your pain issues are not solved by adjusting your saddle height, you may be running into other bike fit issues or personal physical issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing. You never mentioned that you have done any sort of &quot;bike fitting&quot;. Poor bike fit can cause numerous pains...shoulders, neck, hips, knees, etc... But, a good bike fit can mean that you arrive home with no pain at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just realized this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd rather have a longer post so I can lift the seat up an inch or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you need a longer seatpost, but perhaps your frame is too small for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-03-13T22:15:41.770" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T22:15:41.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8451" CreationDate="2012-03-14T02:37:27.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is generally believed that trainer miles are actually harder on a bike than road miles because of the rigid frame position and because you drip a lot more sweat on the frame when using a trainer.  I have an old steel bike showing rust, and it has never been ridden except on my CompuTrainer.  I do use a sweat catcher, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, if you are just keeping track of your own mileage, a lot of people think trainer miles don't count, because you are not building riding skills - just condition.  But it's still interesting.  Electronic trainers can record your performance, including miles on a computer, so you don't need a cyclometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, though, components will wear out - and be replaced, which complicates the calculation further.  But if I were buying a used bike, I would want some idea of how much trainer usage it had, or I would want to take it to a dealer for a good inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T02:37:27.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-14T07:49:04.647" Score="11" ViewCount="4170" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buses in my city have bike racks. In some cases, it is faster to use both the bus and your bike to get from point A to point B (the transit system here isn't too good). Google Maps is great for finding transit directions, or bike directions, but as far as I know, I cannot easily find directions that make use of both... &#xA;Are there any tools/websites that would help me finding such information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3656" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T19:01:26.893" Title="Finding directions for Bus + bike" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;software&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-14T14:09:11.737" Score="0" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a very loud screeching noise when i pedal hard on the down stroke. Be it moving off or climbing up a hill. It is not coming from the front wheel, which i originally thought came from brake rubs, because when the sound still arises when i put my bike on the trainer. i am pretty sure it comes from the bottom bracket and only arises when i pedal hard. if i am coasting at 30kmh, there are no sounds, but if i pedal hard to raise the speed, then the loud screeching noises will arise again. please help! thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3659" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T09:07:50.373" Title="screeching noise in bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8523" CreationDate="2012-03-14T16:28:49.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer: No. Google Maps will, when you're in &quot;transit&quot; mode, tell you to walk to the train station/bus stop, but bike/transit trips seems to be beyond it for now. There are no other directions systems I'm aware of that will do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ac7Ld.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to set up your route as multiple trips. (I did this when setting up my bike/train commute that involved, depending on when I got to Newark Penn Station in the morning, either three trains and two bike trips, or two trains and a bus and two bike trips, or three bike trips and two trains.) What you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do to make all this easier is to bookmark the locations of transit stops you'll be using often, as well as destinations.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above picture, you'll see that Newark Penn Station has a star on it. That's because I have it bookmarked in Google Maps. Click on any destination or building or landmark on the map, and you can do this. It'll then show up on the map as a star, for easier mapping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T16:28:49.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-14T16:37:47.853" Score="4" ViewCount="6597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Shimano WH RS30 rims which are 700c x 32.  I would like to use a beefy 35c tire.  Is that too much width for my rims?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My forks and brakes are wide enough to handle a 42c)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3660" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T18:26:26.667" Title="What is the widest tire I can fit on my 32c wheels?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8526" CreationDate="2012-03-14T17:17:35.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen and used tires with more than twice the width of the rim without issues.&#xA;Using a 35c tire on a 32mm wide rim should be no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides that, it is interesting to note that here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/wheels/road_wheels/product.-code-WH-RS30.-type-.wh_road.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/wheels/road_wheels/product.-code-WH-RS30.-type-.wh_road.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it says these rims are 522x15c, and the rim width is 28mm... Are these the same model as yours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T17:17:35.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7038" CreationDate="2012-03-14T17:21:51.053" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown says no (http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this superior lubricant. Don't do this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T17:21:51.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8526" CreationDate="2012-03-14T17:29:32.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that your rims are actually 622x15 ISO size, like the Shimano page for those rims says...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#ETRTO&quot;&gt;this handy chart on Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt;, putting a 35mm tire on a 15mm rim is slightly bigger than recommended. It's close enough that it should be fine, however. That chart is fairly conservative (and even says so at the bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as &lt;em&gt;the widest&lt;/em&gt;, you could put 42mm on there if the fork, brakes, stays, bridges and seat tube all have the clearance, but that's really pushing it quite far and likely to cause poor handling or other issues. 35mm is just barely pushing it and should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T17:29:32.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8523" CreationDate="2012-03-14T19:01:26.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/openplans/OpenTripPlanner/wiki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OpenTripPlanner&lt;/a&gt; will do this, but isn't everywhere yet.  There are deployments for &lt;a href=&quot;http://demo.opentripplanner.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New York City&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rtp.trimet.org/#/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Portland, OR&lt;/a&gt;, and a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/openplans/OpenTripPlanner/wiki/Demos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;few other cities&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T19:01:26.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-14T20:28:32.497" Score="2" ViewCount="1454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new bike, and a lot of people seem to have problems with disc brakes squeaking when they brake in wet conditions--however, mine seem to squeak the whole d*mn time.  The bike is fresh from the shop, so has no problem with oil/debris from the road.  Is it normal for them to squeak the whole time I'm riding?  Is there anything I can do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!!! :3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3662" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T21:05:16.940" Title="New bike: disc brakes squeal in wet conditions when NOT braking! Normal?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8531" CreationDate="2012-03-14T21:05:16.940" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes are very precise and the pads run very close to the disc even while not braking. Due to this, even small misalignments might make the pads (or even the caliper) rub against the disk, producing the noise you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple test would be to lift the wheel (or turn the bike upside down) and spin the wheel slightly. If it stops quickly, the brake is rubbing. Try to visualize where this rubbing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is actually rubbing, you have three alternatives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is a pad, you can adjust the pads yourself. This procedure depends on the brake type (hydraulic vs mechanic) and model;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is the caliper, you can reposition the caliper by releasing the bolts attaching the caliper to the rest of the bike (directly or via an adapter), and reposition the system. Sometimes, braking hard is the best way to force the caliper to stay in the position it should, but this often require some fine-tuning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the bike to the shop where you purchased. Since the bike is new, they it is very fair that you have it serviced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if the wheels spin freely, or rub against something else, well that would be another story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T21:05:16.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2012-03-14T21:25:43.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Madison, Wisconsin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Madison Metro buses have bike racks that hold two bikes. Tell the driver as you leave the bus that you'll be taking your bike off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes are not allowed inside the bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cityofmadison.com/Metro/planyourtrip/bikeRacks.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cityofmadison.com/Metro/planyourtrip/bikeRacks.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastEditorUserId="3631" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T14:17:51.290" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T14:17:51.290" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-14T21:25:43.747" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2012-03-14T21:40:15.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Madison, Wisconsin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Madison B-Cycle &lt;a href=&quot;http://madison.bcycle.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://madison.bcycle.com/&lt;/a&gt; is a three-season (no winter; spring starts April 1) bike-sharing service, available on the Isthmus (downtown) and in a few outlying areas of west and south campus. The step-through, three-speed Trek bikes are equipped with dynamo head and taillight, front basket, and skirt guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotally, I've seen a fair few of these out on the Lakeshore Path around Lake Mendota.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The local weekly's take: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thedailypage.com/daily/article.php?article=34204&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thedailypage.com/daily/article.php?article=34204&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T21:40:15.930" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-14T21:40:15.930" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2012-03-14T21:47:13.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once saw a cyclist who had affixed an ordinary CD to his backpack (sewn on with monofilament line or similar, I would guess). That thing was amazingly bright; I was impressed. As DIY ideas go, it seemed worth a try! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T21:47:13.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2012-03-14T21:51:20.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of these from Sierra Trading Post: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sierratradingpost.com/north-american-trading-soft-deerskin-gloves-reflective-strip-for-men-and-women~p~4617m/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sierratradingpost.com/north-american-trading-soft-deerskin-gloves-reflective-strip-for-men-and-women~p~4617m/&lt;/a&gt; The reflective strip is wide and works as advertised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're biking in cold weather (I'm a Sconnie, so &quot;cold&quot; to me is &quot;25F or below&quot;), I recommend glove liners and/or wristbands; these gloves are a bit drafty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T21:51:20.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1686" CreationDate="2012-03-14T21:55:02.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Madison, Wisconsin, &lt;a href=&quot;http://redbikes.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Red Bikes&quot;&gt;Red Bikes&lt;/a&gt; will take old bikes. Budget Bicycle Center on Regent Street is the dropoff location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T21:55:02.723" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-14T21:55:02.723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1686" CreationDate="2012-03-14T22:50:51.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Rochester, MN the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sites.google.com/site/kiwanisbicyclerochestermn/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kiwanis club&lt;/a&gt; collects and reconditions bikes.  Most go to Christmas Anonymous, and a few others go to various worthy causes.  (There's often a need for adult bikes for getting back and forth to work.)  When I was unemployed a couple of years back I worked with them reconditioning the bikes.  Some very grungy bikes are taken in and lovingly restored, and the really lost causes are recycled (after stipping off any usable parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T22:50:51.957" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-14T22:50:51.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8540" CreationDate="2012-03-15T03:26:01.647" Score="2" ViewCount="7266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new-ish Bianchi Cortina hybrid that I'm trying to find suitable drop bars for, but I can't figure out the proper size to get. It seems like the bars mostly come in 25.4mm, 26mm and 31.8mm. But do you get this size from the bars, or from the stem clamp? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I measure the bars on the outside of the clamp, it looks to be about 25.4. When I measure the space in the clamp itself it seems closer to 31.8. When I measure the bars directly under the clamp (where it fattens up a bit) it seems somewhere in between. Help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2657" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T03:45:34.810" Title="Measuring stem clamp / handlebar diameter" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8539" CreationDate="2012-03-15T03:45:34.810" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure the handlebar itself, while unmounted from the bike, at the center most point of the bar. Use a digital or vernier scale caliper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bar from the 2009 Bianchi Cortina is a 25.4mm MTB handlebar, with about 2 inches of rise. I expect yours will be as well. Do not use a 26mm bar, although you can likely mount it on the stem, because the installation will damage it, and it will fail, probably at some future point when you are riding it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a drop bar, you will need a new stem as well as handlebar. 25.4mm road drop bars are rare or non existent, since 25.4mm was the mountain bike standard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T03:45:34.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8480" CreationDate="2012-03-15T04:24:20.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First: based on your measurements, your chain is not worn out. The park tool gauge measures a 8 1/2&quot; links, or 4 inches of chain. It looks for wear between .5 and 1mm of &quot;stretch&quot; in the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you read the label on the tool, anything up to .5 is what a new chain wil read. A chain is not worn out until it hits 1mm of wear, which is when it usually will skip teeth on a new cassette or chain rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To protect you old chain rings and cassette, it is usually recommended that you change the chain at around .75mm of wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second: Shimano's recommendation is that a new chain up to the .75mm mark is good for 880 miles on average. I assume that recommendation is conservative, because it often goes to double that in my environment, but speed of wear is based on maintenance and environmental factors like heavy wet weather, and can vary wildly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that is helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T04:24:20.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2012-03-15T12:55:50.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't say what you want your app to do. However, I use OruxMaps for navigating and tracking. I like it because you can create a local copy of online maps to use where 3G internet connection is not available&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3666" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T12:55:50.733" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-15T12:55:50.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1686" CreationDate="2012-03-15T13:41:17.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Hebden Bridge, UK you can drop your parts/whole bikes off at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclerecycle.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cycle Recycle&lt;/a&gt;.  It's a part of the Alternative Technology centre on the canalside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T13:41:17.630" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-15T13:41:17.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2012-03-15T13:46:35.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Hebden Bridge, UK&lt;/strong&gt; (and the surrounding area) the 'Hebden Bridger' buses have a bike rack on the back of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T13:46:35.330" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-15T13:46:35.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2012-03-15T14:12:44.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Twin Cities (Minneapolis-St.Paul, Minnesota, USA)&lt;/strong&gt; has a bike rack for two bikes on all buses. If the rack is full, the driver may give permission to bring your bike inside the bus. The bike racks are used pretty frequently: it's not unusual at all to see a bus with a bike or two on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.metrotransit.org/bicycle.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.metrotransit.org/bicycle.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote from above (as of August 2014 -- note that the trains are included):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Metro Transit buses and trains have bike racks so you can pedal&#xA;  for part of your trip and ride for the rest. Every bus has a bike rack&#xA;  on the front bumper that accommodates two bikes. There are four bike&#xA;  racks inside each light-rail car and spaces for two bikes on every&#xA;  Northstar train car. In addition, there are bike racks and lockers at&#xA;  most stations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3667" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T15:43:02.553" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T15:43:02.553" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-15T14:12:44.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8505" CreationDate="2012-03-15T19:37:04.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ibikedb.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Internet Bike Database&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is built on user-submitted data and lets you list bikes by type (mountain, road, BMX and 21 other types) or by brand, and you can search for specific models, but it won't let you filter by year and gears and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BikePedia&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; claims to be the &quot;Bicycle Industry Encyclopedia&quot; and lets you view by year and manufacturer, but again you cannot filter in the way you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T19:37:04.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8552" CreationDate="2012-03-15T20:26:57.640" Score="19" ViewCount="6559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up a vintage &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penny-farthing&quot;&gt;penny-farthing&lt;/a&gt; (high wheeler) at the flea market and, after restoration, adopted it as my normal mode of transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works well for the most part, but going downhill terrifies me as I don't want to lose control and fall from more than a meter up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly this problem has solved before. How can I safely go downhill? Are there reliable braking systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3672" LastEditorUserId="52565" LastEditDate="2020-11-14T11:19:41.090" LastActivityDate="2020-11-19T18:10:57.317" Title="How can I safely go downhill on an antique penny-farthing bike?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;penny-farthing&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2012-03-15T20:35:01.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Waterloo, Ontario, Canada&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the main routes have front mounted bike racks. The secondary routes have them on most (but not all) buses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T20:35:01.107" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-15T20:35:01.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8548" CreationDate="2012-03-15T20:47:59.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen one with a mechanical brake. It consists of a lever not unlike modern levers connected to a rubber lined metal block that rubbed on the front tire near the top of the fork via linkage. No cables were used. Finding one might be quite a task. That being said, some of the reproductions use modern caliper brakes. They seem to have quite a following on the internet. Not knowing your location you might want to check for clubs in your local area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="1090" LastEditDate="2012-03-17T18:40:23.463" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T18:40:23.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8548" CreationDate="2012-03-15T21:51:45.547" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never ridden a penny-farthing, but one technique I've seen used for going downhill is to put both legs over the handlebars so that the rider's legs are sticking out front. That way your feet are off the pedals to facilitate coasting, and if you fall you're likely to land on your feet instead of on your head. Try to get your weight as far back as you can, as that will make flipping over the handlebars less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The penny-farthings I've seen had a spoon brake. A lever that pushed a paddle against the tire. You could probably put a regular rim-brake of some sort on there, instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful with braking on a penny-farthing, especially going downhill. It's easy to go over the handlebars. Gently apply the brakes to control your speed, don't yank them and try to slow down quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could walk it down the hill... Downhill penny-farthing riding is a good way to break your neck or skull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T21:51:45.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8548" CreationDate="2012-03-15T22:49:10.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, I suspect that nothing better than the spoon brake was ever put on those things because hard braking would send you head-over very quickly/easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall about 30 years ago reading a story of an American cyclist who went cycling in China.  When he rode with a Chinese cycling club they walked up and down all non-trivial hills.  Walked up because the bikes were single speed, and walked down because their brakes were so crummy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH, there was a guy in the Boston area back about 1890 who rode a century a day for a year.  On a penny-farthing.  I would imagine that eventually you learn some techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T22:49:10.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2012-03-15T23:37:13.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also some (I think experimental) lights with turn signals for bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I once saw an ad for these Lights:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicygnals.com/indicators.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicygnals.com/indicators.php&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wide front and rear light, both are wirelessly connected together, with yellow lights at the side. One minus point I see for the front light is that it might take up all space on your cockpit, but it seems a pretty reasonable but a little high effort way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T23:37:13.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6997" CreationDate="2012-03-16T00:27:28.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Visit a bike co-op&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look online to find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycle co-ops near you&lt;/a&gt;. Lots of cities have &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_cooperative&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;co-ops&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The friendly volunteers in your local co-op can teach you how to fix your bike. Co-ops also have a wide variety of tools you can use. Shop time is often as cheap as USD$5 to USD$10 per hour. They may also have a library of books you can read. As well, they may rent out tools for you to bring home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T19:39:26.200" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T19:39:26.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8557" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-16T00:58:00.380" Score="2" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started setting my fore/aft by using the &quot;hands off&quot; method (being able to balance leaning forward with no hands). This occurs with the tip of my seat 8.5 cm behind the BB.  But, at this point, when I get low, in the drops or aero bars, my speed &amp;amp; power drops like a rock.  Moving back to 9 cm, I can get very low, without power loss.  At 9.5 cm, my power drops significantly when I get into an upright position!  (At least I know at what setback I'm the fastest!)  But, does this sound right?  Is it normal to have such a small range -- or, nearly no range, in this case -- in which I can efficiently pedal?  Or, does this indicate a problem with my fit?   (If I raise or lower my seat just 5 mm I also experience a significant loss in speed/power.)  This also makes me wonder how time trialist get in to such a forward position.  If I did that, apparently I'd end up going backwards!  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3675" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T09:00:42.723" Title="Should my fore/aft range be so narrow?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8558" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-16T02:08:07.117" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-03-16T02:08:07.117" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T02:08:07.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8559" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-16T02:08:07.117" Score="0" Body="A penny-farthing or high-wheel bike is a design common before about 1890 with one huge wheel that the rider straddles and a second much smaller wheel." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-03-16T02:08:07.117" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T02:08:07.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2012-03-16T05:25:29.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Toronto&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Toronto, buses have a fold-down rack on the front (outside) which will fit two bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The racks are usually empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used them occasionally (e.g. for a flat tire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can takes bikes into the subway (&quot;Underground&quot;) system too, but not during weekday rush-hours (06:30-09:30 and 15:30-18:30).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="4232" LastEditDate="2013-10-04T07:53:18.507" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T07:53:18.507" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-16T05:25:29.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-16T06:16:19.973" Score="2" ViewCount="2840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed my saddle and I've found I'm unable to get my new saddle level (as measured with spirit level). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the seatpost clamp - it has teeth on both the concave top of the shaft and the convex clamp part that fit together to prevent the saddle angle from changing. These teeth are quite large and they restrict the possible angles the saddle can be set at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My previous saddle just happened to have an inherent angle that matched the seatpost, so I was able to set it &quot;level&quot; with the ground. I find with my new saddle, it is either slightly tipped forward or slightly tipped back. Neither are satisfactory - I need something in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a suggestion for fixing this (short of buying a new seatpost)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3392" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T13:17:29.607" Title="Seatpost won't let me set my saddle &quot;level&quot;" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8562" CreationDate="2012-03-16T07:32:02.117" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this is a common issue with more basic seat posts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use sandpaper or a Dremel to remove the teeth which fix the angles of the seat post. If you make it completely smooth, then you can use grip tape like that designed for a skateboard deck to add friction without locking you in to specific angles. This approach has drawbacks. The grip tape may need to be replaced on occasion. You need to be careful not to remove too much material from the post, as it risks breaking the post in use. As you can imagine, that would be painful. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the seat post with something without that limitation. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T07:32:02.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8565" CreationDate="2012-03-16T08:09:17.073" Score="1" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in Profile Design Tri Stryke Saddle (with cutout), however there is no specs on the website, nor the manufacter answers my e-mail. So maybe somebody has this saddle and would be so nice and tell me what is the width of this saddle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xvhyo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T08:36:09.713" Title="The width of Profile Design Tri Stryke saddle (with cutout)?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8564" CreationDate="2012-03-16T08:36:09.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you mean the width at its widest point, 122mm as best I can measure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T08:36:09.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8557" CreationDate="2012-03-16T09:00:42.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not unusual to have a very small range of position which allows for your most efficient pedaling position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a little unusual for it to be quite that drastic a change. Are you accounting for the change in saddle extension by adjusting your seat height as you move the saddle for and aft? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, I expect that it is more the extension length than your fore aft positioning which is affecting you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, 7-9cm behind the BB center is fairly far back when measuring from saddle tip. Most people are in a 2-5cm range, unless they are unusually tall or have unusually long femurs for their height. You may want a professional to take a look at your fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that is helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T09:00:42.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8524" CreationDate="2012-03-16T09:07:50.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With this level of information, the only good answer is to say,&quot;Find a competent bike mechanic, and ask them to look at it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T09:07:50.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8573" CreationDate="2012-03-16T15:55:12.253" Score="13" ViewCount="81306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a ride from Birmingham to London on the Grand Union Canal (UK), which will be quite bumpy for most of the 145 mile distance.  I have a front suspension bike and can't afford a new full suspension bike.  Do suspension seat posts actually work?  If so, I'll get one of them.  Can anyone recommend a good model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3679" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T07:31:06.137" Title="Is it worth getting a suspension seat post as a cheap alternative to full suspension bike?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2325" CreationDate="2012-03-16T16:30:27.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll be able to get a surprising amount of this out with a bit of steel wool on the end of a rod (how you'll attach it  may require some ingenuity). Afterwards try to clean it out with a rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T16:30:27.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4607" CreationDate="2012-03-16T16:36:58.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grease generally serves two purposes in a bicycle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricating threads or metal parts that are clamped together. For these applications, any reasonably thick grease should suffice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricating bearings. When the grease next to a bearing in under a load, it no longer acts like a liquid, but like a solid. It's important to have a grease that is thin enough not to hinder the movement of the bearings, and thick enough to prevent contact between the bearing and the cup / cone. This is where bicycle specific greases are appropriate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T16:36:58.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8569" CreationDate="2012-03-16T17:03:22.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems everyone I know has a love/hate relationship with them.In other words liked it or didn't.My main complaint was while trying to maintain a consistant cadence I could feel the seat height changing.It seemed to interfere with my pedal stroke.Mine was an inexpensive telescope type,with no adjustments.My reccomendation would be stay away from the lowend models.Also I would try it in similar conditions prior to your trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T17:03:22.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8569" CreationDate="2012-03-16T17:34:36.517" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might find a suspension seatpost to be comfortable, but a suspension seatpost is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a substitute for a full suspension bike.  The purpose of a suspension seatpost is purely comfort (though as mikes mentions, not everyone agrees that they achieve this goal), where as the purpose of a full suspension bike is first and foremost control.  Suspension on the wheels helps them stay on the ground over rough terrain, which a suspension seatpost will not do.  Any extra &quot;comfort&quot; is simply a side benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to smooth out your ride, the #1 thing you can do is lower your tire pressure.  You will lose some efficiency when the ground is smooth, but if you're already riding 145 on a bike with a front suspension, I suspect efficiency isn't your top concern to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T17:34:36.517" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8569" CreationDate="2012-03-16T20:25:04.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard very good things about the cane creek thudbuster suspension seatposts.  I'm probably going to invest in one for some longer gravel road rides I'm planning for the summer.  They come in both the LT (long travel) and ST (short travel).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the ST model would be a good addition to a touring or cross bike used for a longer bumpy ride to take some of the harshness out of the bumps.  I'm basing my opinion mostly on the review at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thecyclistsite.com/reviews/2009/11/27/cane-creek-thudbuster-st-seat-post-out-of-the-box.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thecyclistsite.com/reviews/2009/11/27/cane-creek-thudbuster-st-seat-post-out-of-the-box.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T20:25:04.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8497" CreationDate="2012-03-17T03:04:07.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixed position cleats, or 0 degree float cleats, require far greater precision about cleat setup on the shoe. Failure to get the setup right will mean pain, and can mean injury. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is also true of floating cleats. Most pedals come with cleats that have between 4.5 and 9 degrees of float built in. I don't know of any pedal which has a 0 degree cleat, stock. You would have to buy it separately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purpose, there is no benefit to a fixed position cleat. They are primarily used for track racing and for sprinting specialists in racing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that, floating cleats are most suitable for a commuter's bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T03:04:07.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8548" CreationDate="2012-03-17T09:34:06.533" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forget trying to use the brake to slow you down.  At best, the brake may shed a little speed if you're not travelling too fast, on the flat, but backward pressure on the pedals is the more effective way to lose speed (again, only really possible on the flat).  The brake will be 100% ineffective once you gather momentum and head downhill.  There is one hard and fast rule to follow:  If you can not see the bottom of the hill, or there are obstructions further down, which will require you to slow down or stop, then don't even attempt to ride down.  Dismount and push the bike downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the view forward shows the route to be clear, and you can see the bottom of the hill then it is acceptable (though not easy for a beginner) to raise your legs over the handlebars and rest them on top.  This keeps your feet out of the way of the madly spinning pedals.  You will not be able to spin your legs fast enough to keep up with the pedals, so don't try to - it will end with injury of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignore the advice about applying the brake gently to avoid going head-first over the handlebars.  You will never achieve this by using the brake alone.  The original spoon brakes are just not powerful enough, and certainly will not stop the wheel quickly enough to send you over the top.  &quot;Headers&quot; as they are known, are caused by other problems, such as the front wheel suddenly stopping because it has hit an obstacle, or become lodged in soft ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3685" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T09:34:06.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-17T14:27:22.153" Score="27" ViewCount="195935" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new MTB and am planning to change my previous MTB into a Road Bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I do it? What kind of parts do I need to change or add or remove?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not looking to for a full conversion into specialised road bike. But like the answers are suggesting, I am looking for a bridge between commuter or road bike. My majors concerns to be met are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should be fast enough to compete with road racers over short distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should be light as a road &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should be as close as possible in as cheap as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T14:20:21.273" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T13:27:08.087" Title="Converting a MTB to a Road Bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-03-17T14:48:59.150" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mountain bike will never really be a road bike. The geometry and construction of the frame is different. Mountain bike frames are designed for a different posture and are often designed for a suspension fork, as well as generally being beefier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can set up a mountain bike with slick tires and drop bars if you want. I've tried this before and the ride quality is a bit off compared to a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to take it all the way, you'll need to swap out the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you may need a rigid fork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you'd need to make sure that your frame and fork can accomodate 700c wheels and is drilled for caliper brakes. Many mountain bike frames will fail on at least one of these counts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'd also need to replace your crankset. Mountain bikes generally are geared much lower than road bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your brake levers would need to be swapped to short-pull models meant to be mounted on a drop bar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you'll need different shift levers probably.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all it's probably going to be a lot cheaper to get a used road bike and refurbish it than to convert an entire mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T14:48:59.150" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-03-17T15:09:56.583" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to consider is tires.You'll want to mount the smoothest skinniest tires at the highest pressure that your wheels will accomodate.The knobbies add alot of rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll know after the first ride if you need to make changes to the gearing.The most effective change would be to swap the the big chainring.The 42 tooth is pretty much standard for mountain bikes,somewhere near 50 for a roadbike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can get pretty involved.You have to reasearch the maximum tooth capacity of you deraileur,if your crank bolt pattern will match the ring gear and if your front deraileur will work with a larger gear.Not as effective but easier and cheaper is to swap the cassette.Common MTB sizes are 14-28 to 14-34.If yours'is in this range you can swap to 11-26.You won't see the big improvements of a ring gear change but it will be much cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'll be riding on smooth roads and you can,lock out the front fork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-11-21T17:23:29.273" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T17:23:29.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2525" CreationDate="2012-03-17T16:20:22.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather a late addition to this but I see a lot of people referring to 53/39 as racing sets and in fact they used to be so called, the definitive feature of these chainrings is that the diameter between the bolts is 130mm hence 130 BCD. The 'compact' has a diameter of 110mm or 110BCD. &#xA;Difference?&#xA;130BCD has typical 53/39 set up; 110BCD 50/34 - but you can also get 50/36 or 50/39. I run a 50/39 110BCD compact on my Cervélo P2C Triathlon bike sometimes I change the rings to 51/39. On my road bike I run a 50/34 but then have an 11-23 cassette so the 34/23 is almost equivalent to a 36/35.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an awful lot of macho posting about chainrings and crank lengths and a lot of people simply have too high a gearing and wrong crank length. I run a 165 crank as I have diddy legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most new riders - and many experienced - are best suited to a 110BCD compact. As mentioned a 50/11 is more readily achieved than a 53/11 and many riders will drop down a cog to a 53/12 which is actually a smaller gear in terms of gear inches than a 53/12. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 130BCD set up you will also find that there is a longer crank length on as standard, if the crank length is too long the seat height drops to accommodate the longer travel to the bottom of the stroke, at the top of the stroke the hip angle becomes compressed result in discomfort and less power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So IMHO a 50/36 is ideal for most, 50/34 sweeps up everyone and 50/39 great for racing. So get the 50/34 110BDC Compact and get a 36 and 39 rings and you are rocking whatever the terrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3687" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T16:20:22.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8485" CreationDate="2012-03-17T23:14:57.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have $3000 to spend, how about a Rivendell Betty Foy. She would be a more comfortable bike than any of those mountain bike wannabes. Plus more practical and can take roads as well as dirt paths. And aesthetically speaking, you won't look like you're heading to a dishwasher's job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3688" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T23:14:57.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-03-18T00:59:56.807" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, so long as you're more looking at simple recreation/commuting and not expecting to set any speed/distanced records, you can do a fair job of conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First get smoother, higher pressure tires, ideally a bit narrower than your current ones.  You do not have to switch to 700C rims, though your choices with 26&quot; rims will be somewhat limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, try to increase your top end gear inches.  A larger front sprocket and/or smaller rear cluster.  You will almost certainly need to change your chain length for this, and might run into a tooth capacity problem with your rear derailer, depending on how you do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lock out or stiffen up your suspension.  If there is no lock-out on the bike you can use pieces of plastic drain pipe, cut open on one side, strapped to the cylinders.  (Someone may make a commercial product to do this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing you'll be missing after all this is the geometry of a road bike.  For shorter rides this is not so much an issue, but for, eg, touring you'd appreciate the longer wheelbase, more appropriate posture, and more stable steering of a true road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt; One might consider replacing the flat MTB bar with drop bars, but that's complicated (new bar, stem, shifters, brake levers, etc), expensive, and unnecessary for simple recreational/commuting purposes.  Many tourists use flat bars, preferring the more upright posture, and you can always add aero extensions if you feel you need them (mostly for the more varied hand positions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-03-18T13:59:04.170" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T13:59:04.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8587" CreationDate="2012-03-18T02:31:21.953" Score="7" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;After riding relatively short distances (about five kilometers), I’ve developed a literal pain in the rear. I suspect the hard seat is the primary culprit, and I’m sure I’ll be able to replace with something more sensible. That’s a no-brainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a proper posture to help alleviate or minimize the bumpiness inherent in the system? I’m concerned that this may evolve into an affliction of the lower back. That would be unfortunate as I’m enjoying the ride and from up on high, but not the consequences down low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3672" LastActivityDate="2020-11-14T12:34:22.047" Title="Proper Posture for Preventing Painful Posteriors on Penny-farthings?" Tags="&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;penny-farthing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8586" CreationDate="2012-03-18T09:40:27.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Penny-farthings are known for their relatively harsh ride, and lack of stability. There is no option on many frames to replace the saddle, although there were some that you could. I would get a sprung Brooks saddle, or similar, which might add a bit of comfort without significantly sacrificing the vintage look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will add a bit of suspension effect as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/catalogue-and-shop/saddles/city+&amp;amp;+heavy+duty/B66/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b9Sal.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brooks B66&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T09:40:27.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8410" CreationDate="2012-03-18T22:11:59.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd just like to confirm that I have now found compatible brake pads for the Quando mechanical cable disc brakes. Some very helpful person at Evans Cycles recommended these pads that fit perfectly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magura Louise Clara 2000, Louise 1999-2001&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clarkscycles.com/index.php/html/product/pagetype/aftermarket/id/vrx800c-disc-pad-sintered&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.clarkscycles.com/index.php/html/product/pagetype/aftermarket/id/vrx800c-disc-pad-sintered&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have brakes that work perfectly.. hope this is useful for anyone looking for brake pads for these brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3578" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T22:11:59.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8476" CreationDate="2012-03-18T22:33:37.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem at the moment... I am not too sure what causes it but I do notice the pain happens when I power up hills whilst seated in a high gears. I do a 3.5 mile commute everyday with a couple of short uphill bursts. I might try and use a lower gear in a standing position. I am also experimenting with different seats and seat post height, I think since I have lowered the seat height the pain is not as bad. I have also experienced some knee pain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3578" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T22:33:37.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8592" CreationDate="2012-03-19T14:58:18.673" Score="4" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title pretty much says it all. I think I need to get mine replaced, but I do not know how to tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T20:15:29.570" Title="How do I know when it is time to replace the brake pads for caliper brakes?" Tags="&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8591" CreationDate="2012-03-19T15:09:14.680" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;More expensive brake pads will have a wear line. Replace these when you hit the line. Not so expensive ones should be replaced when the protrusions from the main block have been worn away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another decent way to tell is by how far you're rolled out your barrel adjuster. If it's out more than 5mm or so, it's probably time to replace the pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly than any of these indicators, if you see any metal showing through the pad, it's time to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-03-19T20:02:50.030" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T20:02:50.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8594" CreationDate="2012-03-19T15:25:58.557" Score="4" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it now seems obvious to me that brand name alone is not a good quality heuristic; my Shimano Revo shifter just went south and was replaced after two years, which seems far too soon. (LBS put a SRAM of some variety on it; I hope that's better.) But I do know Shimano makes good higher-quality, more-expensive components (right?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the lesser-quality component lines from the big brand names? Are there any rules of thumb -- other than price, obviously -- for recognizing them at the LBS or on readymade bikes? I'm not looking for manufacturer flamewars here; I'm interested in quality differences &lt;em&gt;within&lt;/em&gt; a given manufacturer's lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it just price?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T16:29:53.957" Title="Bargain-basement component brand lines?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8593" CreationDate="2012-03-19T16:12:46.767" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While price is not the defining factor, there is no doubt that it is a key indicator of quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Groupset#List_of_Groupsets&quot;&gt;List of Groupsets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a list of the three largest manufacturer's groupsets for Road and MTB applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each manufacturer's offering is arranged in descending price/quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of sprockets of the cassette in each groupset is shown in brackets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total number of gears is determined by this number multiplied by the number of chainrings, for example a bike that has a double chainring and a 10-speed cassette has 20 gears, although some of them overlap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Road:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shimano - 2009&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dura-Ace 7900 (10)&#xA;Ultegra 6700 (10)&#xA;105 5700 (10)&#xA;Tiagra (9)&#xA;Sora (9)&#xA;2300 (8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Campagnolo - 2009&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Super Record (11)&#xA;Record (11)&#xA;Chorus (11)&#xA;Athena (11) - new for 2009.&#xA;Centaur (10)&#xA;Veloce (10)&#xA;Older Campagnolo groupsets that were discontinued from 2009 are the lower-end:&#xA;Mirage (10)&#xA;Xenon (10)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo also offers 3 triple chainring offerings for steep hill-climbing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comp Triple (10)&#xA;Race Triple (10)&#xA;Champ Triple (9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;SRAM - 2010&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2006, SRAM released two groupsets for racing bicycles, aimed at competing with Shimano and Campagnolo's offerings. The top SRAM groupsets are called 'Red' and 'Force', being the pro-level and amateur racing level lines, respectively.&#xA;It is worth noting that SRAM has trickled down its technology at an accelerated rate to compete, and that each year production groupsets feature several upgrades, some years more than others. In 2010 SRAM have released a new groupset, Apex, which is aimed at a more casual level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red (10)&#xA;Force (10)&#xA;Rival (10)&#xA;Apex (10)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MTB/General&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shimano - 2011&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;XTR (10)&#xA;Saint (9)&#xA;Deore XT (9/10)&#xA;Hone (9)&#xA;SLX (9/10)&#xA;Deore LX (9)&#xA;Deore (9)&#xA;Alivio (8/9)&#xA;Acera (8)&#xA;Altus (8)&#xA;Tourney (8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SRAM&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XX (10)&#xA;X0 (10)&#xA;X9 (10)&#xA;X7 (10)&#xA;X5 (9/10)&#xA;X4 (8/9)&#xA;X3 (7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRAM also offer parts under several different marques as they've slowly bought out several smaller, specialist bike part manufacturers. These include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake systems - Avid&#xA;Cranksets - Truvativ&#xA;Mountain Bike Suspension - Rock Shox&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRAM are phasing out 3 ring front chainrings in their MTB range for a 2 front chainring, 10 sprocket rear cassette setup, commonly found on road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specialist&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some groupsets which are designed for a specific purpose (track cycling, downhill etc.). Some are just partial groupsets which are intended to be used with other groupsets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 7970 - (10) - electronic shifters and derailleurs intended to be used with regular Dura-Ace 7900 parts (cranks, cassette, chain, bottom bracket etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano Dura-Ace (track) - (1) - Track bikes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo Pista - (1) - Track bikes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo Time Trial - (N/A) - Time Trial components with bar-end controls, chainrings with oversized toothing and super-light brake levers in composite material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano Hone - (9) - Enduro and Freeride applications&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano Saint - (9) - Downhill and heavy-duty applications&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shimano Nexus began as a internal hub only and has slowly grown into its own groupset including a higher end internal hub (Alfine, previously Nexus 'Redline'), chain, shifters, cranks, brakes and calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano Alfine - (8) - Internal (planetary) hub gearing, hydraulic disc brakes or mechanical calipers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano Nexus - (8) - Internal (planetary) hub gearing, drum brakes or calipers&#xA;[edit]See also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This information was copied wholesale from the linked Wikipedia article.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T16:12:46.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8593" CreationDate="2012-03-19T16:29:53.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only ever ridden bikes with shimano road bike parts. Shimano's road lines are, in terms of decreasing value:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dura ace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ultegra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;105&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tiagra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sora&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2300&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;non-series&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having spent an inordinate amount of time riding a bike with a sora group, I can attest for its quality. A lot of people on bike forums say you need a 105 or higher to get a decent ride quality. Maybe for them this is true. I've done a lot of riding on tiagra, 105, and ultegra; they're nice, just not necessary for the average rider. I've never had any problems with a sora component in terms of rideability or durability. This isn't to say that the more expensive groups don't ride nicer, or aren't more durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, shimano does make a lot of crap. It's generally found in the non-series parts. These have a tendency to break frequently and they don't work all that well in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T16:29:53.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-03-19T17:57:18.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the perfect pants for what I was looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exofficio.com/products/details/mens-roughian-cargo-pant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.exofficio.com/products/details/mens-roughian-cargo-pant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are warm, water resistant, quick drying, stain resistant, and loads of zipper pockets. Love them, they are perfect for biking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all for the things to look for. It really helped me find the perfect pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T17:57:18.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8591" CreationDate="2012-03-19T20:15:29.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would err on the side of caution. Rims cost a lot more than new brake pads. Kool-stop pads are under $20 and they are great pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T20:15:29.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7489" CreationDate="2012-03-20T02:30:24.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeglow.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bikeglow&lt;/a&gt; is a way of lighting your bike at night. It doesn’t make the frame itself glow but no doubt makes your bike much more visible. It runs on two AA batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No idea if it is any good: I about it for the first time today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3581" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T02:30:24.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8600" CreationDate="2012-03-20T09:12:21.870" Score="5" ViewCount="2994" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lockable suspension is very handy on every ride. But I have witnessed a few cases where they break way too soon, in comparison with other types of suspension. The locks fail to be effective, or the shock travel decreases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my suspension with a good quality lockable front suspension. And I want to know how to make it last longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T01:31:20.300" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T01:31:20.300" Title="How to make a lockable front suspension last longer?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8599" CreationDate="2012-03-20T09:56:07.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suspension forks with lockouts are the norm on any bicycle of quality in the current market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most really good quality forks or rear shocks which are equipped with a lockout are also equipped with a blow off valve which release the lockout when it hits a bump which exceeds the pressure the lockout valve can support. This is designed to save your shock in an emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More basic forks, or older forks may not have this blow off feature, and may therefore sustain damage if more than very minor obstacles are hit, at speed, while the shock is locked out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you have a very good fork, it is advisable to use the lockout for its intended purpose, which is to increase efficiency when there is no need for the suspension, and that means that you should avoid riding rougher terrain with the lockout engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you do force the blow off valve to trigger, you often need to service the shock before riding again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension is one of the more sensitive components to proper maintenance and tuning. If you treat you fork right, it should last just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing many people fail to realize is that suspension warranties are conditional on you doing the required maintenance. For most shocks that means rebuilding them once a year. Check your manual if you need the maintenance schedule for your particular shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T09:56:07.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2544" CreationDate="2012-03-20T16:26:42.760" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer to part one:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, within reason, it's true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer to part two:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works in a very simple fashion. Each time the lever is pulled, enough fluid to move the pistons, and therefore the brake pads, is pushed out of the caliper far enough to contact the brake rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As they move out of the piston, they push past the caliper seal. The flex in the caliper seal acts as a retraction spring, to pull the piston back into the caliper by just enough to clear the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the seal that acts as a retraction spring is always in the same place relative to the piston, the pad wear is automatically compensated for because the pad is always pressed out of the caliper until it contacts the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a bit confusing to describe, but it is how it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-20T18:04:29.587" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T18:04:29.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8607" CreationDate="2012-03-20T18:10:11.063" Score="9" ViewCount="6533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently asked a question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8599/how-to-make-a-lockable-front-suspension-last-longer&quot;&gt;how to make a lockable suspension last longer&lt;/a&gt;. There &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1259/zenbike&quot;&gt;zenbike&lt;/a&gt; told me about the “blow off” feature. Now, I am curious about how the whole system works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can anyone tell me about how a lockable front suspension works, together with features like “remote-lock” and “blow-off”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T06:56:17.020" Title="How does Lockable Suspension work?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8586" CreationDate="2012-03-20T18:45:37.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about Penny-farthings, but on a normal (what is normal?) bike you aim to sit on your sit-bones which are the two bones right in front of your tail bone. Sit those on the rear of the saddle where it is comfortable. This may require seat adjustment with attention paid to your riding posture. Eventually you will find your own sweet spot for where to position your saddle. Being as upright as you are on a Penny-farthing I imagine you would want a nice flat position with a small but comfortable seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is back pain that you are experiencing being too tense while riding could cause that. Especially when exerting a great amount of effort you want to be relaxed as to be able to move easier without straining your muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T18:45:37.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8599" CreationDate="2012-03-20T19:40:37.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding the &quot;last longer&quot; part, there would be two approaches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The suspension wears out while it works, due to friction;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The suspension, when locked, suffers from impacts and vibration, both of which mechanically stress the whole structure, and specially the lockout mechanism.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the first reason might not be right on good-quality suspensions which have good washers/O-rings to auto-clean the mud and dust away, and in these cases keeping it locked for too long might actually make the dust build-up even greater than a free-moving suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it seems to me the worst thing you could do to decrease the life of your fork is to use it locked when it should be actually open, that is, everywhere except very very smooth asphalt roads, or during long climbings, or during sprints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for myself, like I said previously, I never lock the suspension because I cannot feel any disadvantage from riding it open, but lots of discomfort and even risks from riding it locked. BUT, I think it depends on preload (my fork is relatively firm), and with softer suspensions, where the bobbing might be too much, locking might be even necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-03-20T19:55:47.947" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T19:55:47.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8603" CreationDate="2012-03-20T23:55:16.103" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern suspensions have a valve inside, and when the suspension moves, the valve moves inside oil, and the oil is forced to pass a very narrow opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of this opening is different depending if the suspension is compressing or returning. Usually, there is a spring which lets the oil flow more when it compresses, and less when it rebounds (the spring closes the so-called lip-valve), thus damping the oscillations and giving the rider more comfort and control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then on these modern suspensions, there is a knob that shuts the valve close, so that is impossible to compress the fork at all (some models), or the suspension locks close to the bottom and keeps some of its travel (some other models), and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blow-off feature is one that allows the system to auto-release when you hit a very hard bump, because the oil pressure rises so much that it activates an auto-release system. Some extra-super-fancy models allow you to adjust how hard the hit needs to be in order to release the lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I remember, some cheaper models have mechanical locking system, which lock the suspension the same way you lock a door (some metal slides inside and blocks the suspension), but this might be considered a not very elegant solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remote lock means the knob you turn is mounted on the handlebar, so you can activate it without taking your hand from the handlebar. I guess this is actually NEEDED only for high-end mountain-bike racers, but you know, mountain-bike is a very fashion-oriented activity...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T23:55:16.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-21T01:15:05.553" Score="4" ViewCount="4458" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I started to write this answer, I thoroughly read this question, its answers and comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/5264/2355&quot;&gt;How do I calculate the diameter of a chainring from the number of teeth?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question tries to ellaborate over this, considering that, for single speeds, there will always be a certain unique chainlength (for a new drivetrain) given the gear sizes and the number of links in the chain. Also, for vertical dropouts, where chainstay length is fixed, there might be a &quot;magical gear&quot; when you have almost zero chain-slack with the right combination of sprocket teeth number, chainring teeth number, and number of chain links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that reason, I plan to write some app (html+javascript) to get this length. There is a program which does exactely that, but it is not possible, as far as I know, to know which formula it uses, or if it is actually correct:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I think the following assumptions should be made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain perimeter is the sum of the distances between the consecutive centerlines of each pin;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nominal distance between centerlines, in a new chain, is half an inch, or &quot;exactely&quot; 12.7mm;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain is considered to run a straight line between the tangent points where it touches each gear (sprocket or chainring);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain is considered a regular polygon sector along the circumference of the gears, as pointed by Lantius in his answer to the linked question.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result would be the answer to the question: &quot;If I wrap a closed chain with N links around a spocket with S teeth and a chainring with C teeth and pull those apart, what would be the distance between the centerlines of the cog and the chainring?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I'm including an &quot;updated&quot; drawing I generated programmatically (it's quite involving!), so it would be easier to analyze the geometry of the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvV2j.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X is the chainstay length, and it is the hypotenuse of the purple triangle, the short cathetus being R-r (known), and the longer cathetus being equal to B (unknown).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: (added trig formula) The whole length L of the chain (known) is equal to A+B+C+D. Since B = D, then L = 2B + A + C, or, with all the added trig:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TuroW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unknown (B) appears in both sides of the equation, and it looks like it cannot be isolated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(To make matters worse, there are the natural limitations that teeth profile is not always the same between brands, there might be very small variations of link length between different chains even of the same brand (happens to me quite often), how much chainslack is actually necessary is debatable, and so on, but it would be nice to have a &quot;canonical formula&quot; which actually considers the physical nature of the pinion-and-chain engagement and allows us to calculate this, at least theoretically.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T16:36:49.440" Title="What would be the &quot;definitive&quot; formula to calculate chainstay length from sprocket size, chainring size and number of chain links?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="821" CreationDate="2012-03-21T12:43:11.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amongst the other good advice I would recommend non-radial wheels - it doesn't save that much weight generally and is stronger; with 28 or 24 spokes you can go &lt;em&gt;cross 2&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2063" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T12:43:11.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8497" CreationDate="2012-03-21T16:48:57.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although you have opted for a 'proper' road bike, you may want to consider the mountain bike style SPDs. Some of the MTB shoes come close to racing shoes in terms of stiffness, and there are certainly a range of good quality pedals on the market. There are disadvantages (the power from your foot is not spread over as large a pedal area) but the advantage is that you can buy shoes (or an additional pair of shoes) with recessed cleats (or a double sided pedal with SPDs one side and a platform the other) enabling you to use the commuting bike to nip into town shopping at lunchtime. Wandering around shops in cleated racing shoes is no fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3704" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T16:48:57.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8608" CreationDate="2012-03-21T21:24:01.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately my crummy draw tool won't let me place the lines very accurately, but this is the idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R7fCa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The radii describe right angles to the two chain lines.  I'm pretty sure the two wrap angles on the two sprockets will add to 360 degrees.  The upper quadrilateral has been divided into a rectangle (if my lines were square) and a right triangle.  The hypotenuse of the triangle is the chain stay length.  The short side is the large sprocket radius minus the small sprocket radius.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the chain stay length and the sprocket radii you can compute the straight chain length and (with a bit of trig) the two wrap angles.  Given a wrap angle and a sprocket radius you can compute the amount of chain on the sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-03-21T22:48:40.677" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T22:48:40.677" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8617" CreationDate="2012-03-21T23:17:58.503" Score="1" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just getting back on my bike after a couple years and have quickly been made to remember that it takes time to get your butt used to the saddle.  I've read articles about &quot;getting your seat&quot; and all pretty much agree that more short rides will help you &quot;get your seat&quot; faster than few long rides.  They also seem to agree that a &quot;short ride&quot; in this case is about an hour (my typical training loop of about 15 miles takes almost exactly an hour right now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the articles that I have read say how often you should ride during this &quot;my butt is bruised&quot; period.  I'm thinking every other day is about right for me, but I'm wondering anyone has more information on this?  Maybe I should be out every day?  Maybe every third day? 4th day? 117th?  I really have no idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm on a men's Trek 1.1 with a stock saddle... and a sore (not too sore, just normal beginner's sore) butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2769" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T08:59:51.023" Title="Best rest length for &quot;getting your seat&quot;" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2401" CreationDate="2012-03-22T01:53:00.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an Assault III backpack with a waist strap and a drop leg holster modified to attach to my hip using the leg platform as a pad. I have a Glock 29 and it works well on a mountain bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3708" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T00:03:16.470" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T00:03:16.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8614" CreationDate="2012-03-22T03:40:37.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no one good answer to this question, because there are many personal factors which play in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your weight, your physical fitness, the quality of the saddle, and whether it fits &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; body well will all be a factor here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, a short (sub 1 hour) ride every 3 days works well for most people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider getting rid of your stock seat, and getting something more fitted and more stable for your body to adapt to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-22T08:59:51.023" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T08:59:51.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2012-03-22T08:02:55.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say how far your commute is. Mine's just 4 1/2 miles (though soon to go up when we move offices). One answer to consider is not bothering to freshen-up at all. If you take the cycle in easy, it isn't too long, and your work do not need you to look besuited and amazing then you can get away with just wearing your work-a-day clothes on the bike. I started off turning up in lycra and then changing into clothes I kept at work (taking in a new set of shirts and a pair of trousers every Monday) but found disadvantages. If I turned up late for a meeting it would freak out my colleagues to have me in lycra (understandably). So now I just cycle in in what I'm planning to wear that day, shoes and all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On wet winter days I need to use waterproof over-trousers (I use some Goretex hiking ones) and I have a bright reflective cycling jacket, a helmet, cycling gloves, and trouser clips but other than that it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3704" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T08:02:55.957" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-03-22T08:02:55.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2170" CreationDate="2012-03-22T08:10:09.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is obvious, but do trust your own senses. In Witney, Oxfordshire (a lovely Cotswolds town in the UK) there's a short section of road (Bridge Street) where something about the layout of the road, traffic density, buildings, etc. seems to cause pollution to hang in the air. You can feel it just walking along that stretch of road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find yourself repeatedly assaulted by fumes during a particular section of your route choose a new route that avoids the problem stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3704" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T08:10:09.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-22T08:53:41.227" Score="6" ViewCount="7799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a bike for my girlfriend about six months ago. It's a women's road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She's rode it a bit, but all of it on the road. She's never crashed it and it's always been in good care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She's taken the wheel off a few times to put into a car. But yeah, each time we've taken good care of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I noticed that the wheels were touching the brakes. It's been doing more and more later, so I've had to re-adjust and widen the brakes, but today, I realized that unless I completely undo the brakes, it won't touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turned the bike upside down and realized that it was touching, because as the wheel is spinning it was kind of wobbling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm not sure what has caused this. Like I've said, we've had it for six months, but it wasn't like we rode it all the time, the bike has never crashed and as far as we know, we've always taken good care of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is it like a fairly normal thing? Is it possible to get it fixed? Could it be a flaw with the product? Should I be ringing up the bike shop I bought it from to complain? Or is six months like too long, and I should be expecting things like that to happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Fuji Absolute 4.0 - it's been a fairly good introduction for her into riding I think. Nice and light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3489" LastEditorUserId="3639" LastEditDate="2012-03-22T22:52:34.440" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T19:34:48.690" Title="How long should a bike last before the wheels wobble?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8623" CreationDate="2012-03-22T09:34:43.120" Score="1" ViewCount="1412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently building a roadbike with slightly dated components and was wondering if a Campagnolo headset will fit on my frame? It's a Holdsworth, so the fork threads are English spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know what size the headset has to be, but I'm concerned about the Italian threading as according to Sheldon Brown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Obsolete. Threads are cut at 55 degrees, but ISO or J.I.S. headsets can be used.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I was wondering how this degree cut in the threads would affect fitting of the headset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3559" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T22:02:22.000" Title="Will an Italian threadded headset fit on an English frame and forks?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8620" CreationDate="2012-03-22T09:41:47.337" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is normal for a wheel to have an initial break in period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you ride the bike, each spoke has its load released, and retensioned each time it passes around the bottom of the wheel. Since some parts of the wheel are aluminum, and others are steel, the aluminum parts compress. This means that the spokes are not under as much tension as they need to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since not every spoke will compress exactly the same amount, it makes some spokes looser than others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wheel's strength comes from having the spokes act like the wires of a suspension bridge. As long as they are under the correct amount of tension, and the tension is equal on each spoke, the wheel will stay straight and strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single loose spoke will allow a wheel to detension, and come out of true. If you ride the wheel in the detensioned state for any length of time, you can damage the rim, and make it impossible to make the wheel perfectly straight, round, and strong again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process of break in takes different periods of time for different wheels and different riders, but most bike shops recommend a service on the bike within 30 days of riding it the first time. That should include a wheel service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Six months is too long to expect them to fix it free, although they might do it to build good will with a customer of theirs. I would not go in and complain, but do go in and ask them to explain why it happened. Make sure you speak to a professional mechanic or manager, and not the high school apprentice mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be friendly about it, and a good shop will likely fix it, if possible, without charging you. At the very least, you will get an idea of what kind of shop they are, and a real idea of it is repairable or needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-22T14:42:16.323" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T14:42:16.323" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8621" CreationDate="2012-03-22T10:02:20.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fork threads are the only threads to worry about in this case. Assuming an English threaded fork, a Campy headset which is recent manufacture should be no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is Italian threaded, it should specify. The major worry for current bike threading issues have to do with the Bottom Bracket thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T10:02:20.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8629" CreationDate="2012-03-22T17:54:11.727" Score="1" ViewCount="6048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at building a road-bike, and I've just purchased some wheels with campagnolo hubs, with an 8 speed freewheel on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use Campagnolo Daytona / Veloce cranks on the front? I understand that they state 10 speed on the cogs, but can I use them with my 8 speed on the rear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3559" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T10:08:42.263" Title="Will 10 speed cranks work with an 8 speed freewheel?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-22T19:16:14.080" Score="15" ViewCount="90501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized hybrid bike, and when I'm out biking with friends who are on road bikes, I'm always lagging behind.  Besides just plain getting better at biking, which of the following would make the biggest difference in increasing my speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to clipless pedals.  Right now I'm just on platform pedals with sneakers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to thinner tires.  Right now I have 700x28c.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to a dropbar...  I think this is more of a comfort thing though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to a road bike! Obviously I'm wondering how close I can come without switching out the bike frame :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3713" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T19:05:31.560" Title="How can I increase my speed on my hybrid bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8626" CreationDate="2012-03-22T19:31:16.960" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on how you're lagging.  If it's because of feeling tired keeping up with them then reducing friction might be an option.  I'd suggest that the most likely reason for lagging behind is that there is a fundamental speed difference though.  See whether you're having to pedal faster than them to keep up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your top speed is governed by your cogs.  Take a look the number of teeth on the front and back.  If you have a 13 tooth smallest cog on the back you could get that cassette replaced with one that starts at 11 teeth.  Up front you're probably running a 46 tooth chainset whereas your road bike friends are probably running 50 teeth.  Again, you can replace that if you fancy it.  Just be careful if you do make it faster that you don't lose the low end you want for getting up hills.  You should be able to get quite a decent range with the right set of cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reduced drag from narrower tires may reduce the friction allowing you to accelerate more easily and maintain speed better but won't affect your top speed appreciably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedals may allow you to improve your efficiency with pedalling.  I would only look at these when I was happy with a bike though, rather than as a solution to a problem like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:  Based on zenbike's comment I'd say the switching to a road bike warrants more consideration.  Assuming it is the gears he's right that a hybrid may well be difficult to alter to run the gear ratio you want to keep up with your friends.  When thinking of getting a new bike take a look at how similar it is to the ones your friends ride.  Simply getting a cheap heavy one if they have light racers may well leave you with a similar problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 2 bikes have the same gear ratio but one is heavier it will be able to go as fast, but it'll be more effort to get it up to speed, and a little more effort to cruise at the same speed.  It's less of a problem than not having the right ratio, but you'll probably find your self lagging a little at first.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastEditorUserId="1131" LastEditDate="2012-03-23T08:01:28.153" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T08:01:28.153" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8637" CreationDate="2012-03-22T19:37:34.100" Score="10" ViewCount="1610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for recommendations for a good, water-proof (or at least weather-resistant) video camera that meets the needs of recording general commuting rides. Some desirable attributes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Several hour battery life. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of video download and erasure. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of basic operation; the ability to turn on and off with gloved hands without looking, for example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inconspicuous and light when mounted; something that could go pretty much unnoticed on the side of a helmet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are quite a few new products in this category, but am having trouble coming by experiences of actual riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T23:53:17.180" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T10:24:50.620" Title="Recommendations for inconspicuous helmet-mounted video camera" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8625" CreationDate="2012-03-22T19:48:29.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;New Chainrings, Old Chains&#xA;  Going the other direction, using wider chains with chainrings intended for narrower chains is not generally a major problem if there's only a one- or two- generation difference. The only problem you might run into is that the chain will be more liable to rub on the inside of the bigger chainrings in the small/small crossover gears, gears you shouldn't be using in any case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may run into some poor shifting performance, but the system should still function.  If you are unhappy with the performance, 8 speed chainrings will mount on your current crankset, so there's no need to change-up everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T19:48:29.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-22T19:56:10.317" Score="2" ViewCount="1774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a geared bike back tyre that has a dent in the rim. I'm considering a fixed gear conversion. A few points of issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has small vertical drop outs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The skewer width on the current back tyre width is for a 7-speed block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options to deal with these issues? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-03-22T21:38:14.137" LastActivityDate="2017-08-20T20:10:24.950" Title="geared to fixied options" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8630" CreationDate="2012-03-22T20:34:22.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can purchase a new skewer or add a ton of washers. There are eccentric bottom brackets you can use to provide chain tension in the absence of a horizontal dropouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jebKN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;The big hole (notice it is not in the center of the cartridge) accepts the cranks. Depending on the adjustable orientation of the hole you gain or loose a couple inches to the front/back up/down. These small adjustments will tension the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastEditorUserId="3047" LastEditDate="2012-03-22T23:04:50.743" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T23:04:50.743" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-23T00:45:43.440" Score="1" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite riding seriously -- about 6,000 miles/yr -- for over 20 years, I apparently have some kind of obsessive-compulsion thing about always fooling with my bike fit.  (95 changes -- NOT a typo! -- last year alone.)  Seems to get worse every year.  Before resigning myself to this being a &quot;mental&quot; thing, anyone know if it's possible there may be a physical reason for this?  For instance, I use the &quot;hands-off&quot; test to determine the seat's fore/aft; I find it very hard to believe that some &quot;mental condition&quot; could result in me being able to pass the test with a 6 cm -- tip behind BB -- setback one day, then a few days later, I can't pass it unless the seat is 9 cm back!!!  And, yes, I've had several bike fittings.  (It's soon after those that I REALLY went nuts changing things due to the resulting loss in efficiency and/or pain.)  The fitters seem to be confused, too!  The range of their fits includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;seat height (BB-seat): 81-82 cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;seat setback (BB-tip): 5.5-9 cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bar reach (tip-bar): 53-56 cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bar drop: 5-8 cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After changing positions, it feels much better for a few rides.  Then, on one ride, the fit suddenly feels so screwed up, its as if I'm on someone else's bike!  I then recheck things, discover something has to be changed by a centimeter or 3.  Then it feels WAY better -- and is usually WAY faster -- until a few days later, when something is obviously wrong . . . and so on, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, any ideas as to why -- besides the mental thing?  Anything to try? If it helps, I'm 6'2&quot; with an inseam of about 36&quot;.  My torso is pretty short, relative to my legs, and I think my thighs are on the short side relative to my lower legs. (Guess I could average out all the fittings, and see how that works.)  I realize I may need a sports psychologist more than a bike fit expert, but I don't have the time or money for that!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3675" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T16:46:27.333" Title="Why do I have to keep changing positions?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8632" CreationDate="2012-03-23T02:15:02.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fit is a dynamic thing, but it's not so dynamic that it needs to be changed as often as you're changing it. I'm no psychologist, but I think it's safe to say it's a mental thing. Making adjustments feels better and faster because it feels new for a few rides and then you get used to it. Split the difference of all the measurements you listed and leave it that way for awhile. Be honest with yourself when you feel the need to make an adjustment and realize that once you're within the range of fit that works for your body, no small change is going to make a night and day difference.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you've been making that many changes for years, you've basically conditioned your mind to react the way that it does and you'll never be happy because of it unless you just leave the fit of your bike alone, unless of course it truly needs to be adjusted. The challenge for you will be determining the difference.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is not all that uncommon of a condition. I've seen people who do it with bike fit, bikes/components, diet, etc, always expecting the next change to be the one that makes the difference. Just remember that most of it comes down to the rider, especially his/her fitness and skill level, and those things only come with time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T02:15:02.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8625" CreationDate="2012-03-23T06:44:42.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, to answer the question asked: you can use them physically, but the shifting performance will suffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, there is no limitation on the wheel, for a campy 8 speed hub. Put a 10 speed campy group on the bike. 8/9/10 speed are all the same, unless you truly have a freewheel, as opposed to a cassette. For 8 speed campy, that is fairly unlikely, but I'm not looking at your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have the option to run a new group without new wheels because of the freewheel, then my experience is that running an 8 or 9 speed drivetrain with a 10 speed chain ring set will produce slow and noisy shifting on the front chain rings, when shifting up to the larger ring, and pretty normal shifting when moving from large to small rings. It will also rub on the small chain ring, when in the bottom 2 or 3 cogs in the rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-23T10:08:42.263" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T10:08:42.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-23T07:07:00.313" Score="0" ViewCount="5758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been cycling for almost about 9 years now. I believe, I have worked myself up to become quite a efficient cyclist. Still, I never felt the need to upgrade my gears to 10 speed, except in races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, here is my recent small story&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A fresher, who just bought a expensive bike with everything the&#xA;  modern technology offers, is suddenly bullying a 7 speed bike of mine&#xA;  in the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Here I am cycling my butt off, with maintaining as much high cadence as I can.&#xA;  And there he comes, cycling with a very average cadence without even the&#xA;  breaking a sweat and pulling up way ahead of me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has to be something like &lt;code&gt;skills&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;techniques&lt;/code&gt; an fairly experienced rider can pull-off to at least become competitive with 10-speeders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2012-04-22T09:39:56.653" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T12:12:44.047" Title="Competing against a 10 Speed Bike with 7 Speed bike?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;skills&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8628" CreationDate="2012-03-23T08:34:56.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are asking for a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A camera which has a several hour battery life, by definition needs size to carry the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smallest self contained cameras I am aware of are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epicstealthcam.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Epic Stealth&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tachyoninc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tachyon XC Micro&lt;/a&gt;. There is a good review and comparison &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helmetcamreview.com/MicroCams.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are both older models compared below. The newer models on the websites linked have better specs, and better resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/drjjo.png&quot; alt=&quot;Microcam Comparison&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to (now deleted) comments below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://contour.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Contour HD&lt;/a&gt; is a good camera, with fairly short (sub 2 hour) battery life. It does have the pretty cool geotagging feature as well. I would recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://gopro.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the GoPro cameras&lt;/a&gt;, but it would be best if you bar mount those, and they aren't as small. Not huge, but not tiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-25T05:17:16.600" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T05:17:16.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8636" CreationDate="2012-03-23T11:59:37.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not necessarily sure that the number of gears here is the key issue - it's going to be the upper and lower range: what are the extremes of your gear ratios (or gear inches, if you'd prefer)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe your largest gear just isn't large enough. Maybe you need a bigger front cog (or a smaller rear one) to allow you to get up to the same ratio that he can use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;cadence * gearing = speed&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra gears on his bike just means the transition between gears is smoother - less of a leap between neighbouring cogs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T11:59:37.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8632" CreationDate="2012-03-23T13:21:35.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with jm2 about the &quot;mental state&quot; thing. I commute daily with more than one bicycle, and some days are just TERRIBLE, seems like I'm dying each pedal stroke. Other days I fly like an eagle zigzagging in traffic like I was 20 again (I'm 34 by now). And I have a &quot;golden rule&quot; regarding bike fit: once I find it during one typicl ride, I NEVER change it (except maybe saddle height), unless I need to replace some broken thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my additional theory would be: try to act upon your body, not the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure as we get old the body changes. When younger, I liked the ultra-sporty condition, with handlebar almost five inches below seat, and it was ok. Now I complain because the handlebar in one of the bikes is ONLY one inch ABOVE the seat, and I cannot rise it further!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I realized, over the years, is that you need to get your body in shape. I was a student until 24 years old, then I was always riding the bike with no worries, no job responsibilities, and no household chores. Then your mind is always free and you never feel pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you get old, joints get stiffer, recovering time increases, sometimes we sit in front of the computer for 10 hours a day straight, traffic is not that calm anymore, etc., etc. We end up needing more comfort, more &quot;support&quot; from the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are having the trouble you described, I think you would benefit heavily from a physical enhancement program, be it with a physical therapist or with a personal trainer, focusing on improving flexibility and range of motion mostly, but also muscular tone and perhaps cardio fitness. Pilates, Yoga, and such, are what I would try first. I've done Pilates myself, only once a week, and heartily recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't forget, riding a bike will always be an effort to the body. Sometimes it's useful to have a bolder attitude and &quot;attack&quot; the bike with your muscles (more postural tone, more power, more bloodflow) than to be &quot;attacked&quot; by it (letting the body be shaken and compressed by gravity, road surface, contact points, and such.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule N.6&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;Free your mind and the legs will follow&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(and, if you want the aggressive viewpoint too, take &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule N. 5&lt;/a&gt;...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T13:21:35.323" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-23T13:46:23.943" Score="1" ViewCount="2366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 11 speed Athena chainset, and I've stripped one of the chainring bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's £40 for a replacement Campag set! Can I just buy Race Face at £4.70 and expect them to fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T10:12:07.453" Title="Are chainring bolts interchangeable?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8640" CreationDate="2012-03-23T15:21:20.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you will need a set that is Campag compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Campagnolo cranksets use special chain ring bolt that bolt through the ring and into the crank, at least behind the arm. The Athena 11 speed appears to be one of these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the 5 bolts is longer than the rest. And unlike other brands, these bolt into cranks, not into a receiving nut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a picture of a compatible set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pfTgp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Athena Chain Ring Bolt set&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T15:21:20.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8636" CreationDate="2012-03-23T16:17:43.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you describe, these would be my hypotheses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your are not using gears right (unlikely, since you said you are an experienced and efficient biker). It would be wrong to try to get speed hammering a very high-speed/low-cadence gear, but it is ALSO wrong trying to get your extra speed JUST by increasing your cadence. You should shift accordingly, perhaps until you reach the highest gear on your bike;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're using a different category of bicycle. Althoug you have not mentioned, I suppose both of you are using road bikes. If you are using a Mountain Bike, well, then I think you're going to have a hard time catching up with him;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your bike is not in good shape/setup to go high-speed. Most important things besides gears have already been mentioned: good hub bearings, good chain lubing (it's weird, but it counts a lot!), &quot;efficient&quot; rims, and SPECIALLY good fast tires. That would be skinny, smooth, high-pressure tires. These can make a bike go from turtle to rabbit without any additional change;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your friend's bike is MUCH LIGHTER than yours. Sometimes there might be a difference of 10 pounds (around 5kg) or even more between a not-so-modern-not-so-expensive bike and these new carbon-feather bikes. And that IS a huge difference in terms of speed and specially acceleration. It also allows the rider not to be so tired most the time, so when the sprint comes his legs are fresh to pedal hard;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At last, this is always a possibility: your friend's got genes, he might be those guys who's strong as a horse and/or never gets tired. Check out if that's not the case...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, hope it helped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T16:17:43.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8630" CreationDate="2012-03-23T16:42:38.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No EBB, vertical dropouts, and 130mm spacing in the rear. You have a few options. Here they are, from worst to best, and most likely cheapest to most expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt; &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRt42gsP6Mo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ghost ring.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Basically, you get your chain length as close as you can then cram an old chainring in the chain inside the chainstay. Scary solution, especially if you don't run (all of your) brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.63xc.com/toddp/halflink.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic Gear.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Find a gear combination and chain length that gets the chain respectably tight. May require halflinks, and can be a PITA. If if works, it works great for a short time, then the drivetrain wears and the chain becomes loose and you have to do it all over again. Not a great permanent solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://whiteind.com/rearhubs/singlespeedhubs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;White Industries ENO eccentric rear hub.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; This is the way to go if you're willing to spend the cash. Comes in a variety of spacing, free or fixed threading. Works basically the same way an Eccentric Bottom Bracket does. Dropout bolts are offset from the axle so it allows you to adjust the distance from the bottom bracket to the rear axle. White Industries makes bombproof components as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is the ENO, hands down. Don't bother with your current rear wheel. It's more trouble than it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2012-03-23T18:30:30.110" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T18:30:30.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8630" CreationDate="2012-03-23T18:25:51.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the following reasons, I can't recommend converting this bike to a fixed gear:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;a) Vertical Dropouts (making chain tension adjustment difficult) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;b) Dented wheel (Probably don't want to rely on this, it could fail more easily or cause the tire bead to pop out when skidding)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;c) Existing wheel has a freewheel, and is not going to accept a fixed cog. (You need a new wheel to accept a fixed cog and lock ring)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You'll spend way more money getting this bike converted to a fixed gear than it's worth.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Really, it's probably easiest to either a) purchase a new or used fixed gear bike or b) buy another bike with semi-horizontal or track dropouts and get a new rear wheel with a flip flop hub, fixed cog, and lock-ring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the cheapest solution to having a working bike is probably to just buy a new geared wheel and put it on your bike and leave it as a geared setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T18:25:51.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8626" CreationDate="2012-03-23T18:49:41.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd consider a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The weight of the bike. Road bikes tend to weigh less than a hybrid. There is a reason roadies are sometimes overly concerned with the weight of the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The type of tire.  Are you running slicks or heavily treaded tires? Slicks will roll easier on roads. Again, the weight of the tire matters, and wider tires are typically heavier than skinnier tires. However, 28's don't seem overly huge. You could try switching down to some slick 700x25c tires next time you're due for a replacement set of tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gearing of the bike.  Road bikes tend to have a narrower range of gears, leaning towards smaller cogs in the rear than hybrids. They may also have more speeds on the rear cassette, which allow for more steps within the range of gears. Often, hybrids may have 7-8 speeds vs 9-10 on new road bikes.  You could possibly swap out your existing cassette with a road bike cassette with same number of speeds (like an 8-speed 11-28 cassette instead of say an 8-speed 12-34 cassette).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foot retention matters. Clipless may increase your pedaling performance, but a cheaper route could be to start off with a set of cages and straps or get some FRS straps like hold fasts or burro straps. I found this to be a big help when powering up hills and feeling more connected to my bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really considering changing the gearing, you may just want to try out a new road bike due to the weight, geometry, and drive-train differences. It might be that you're just outgrowing this bike and moving towards a more specialized road bike, more suited to your primary riding style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="26597" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T22:33:59.077" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T22:33:59.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8620" CreationDate="2012-03-23T19:34:48.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely you either have loose cone adjustment on the axle (causing it to wobble at the hub) or an out of true wheel (causing the outside of the wheel to have a wobble even when there is no play in the hub). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a truing stand and cone wrenches, you're probably best off if you go to the bike shop and ask for a tune up. Pay a few bucks. Most shops will do some wheel truing, drive train, and other minor adjustments during a tune up. I'd expect it to cost anywhere from 40-100 bucks, depending on the shop and what is included in their tune up package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have the tools read up on the following and DIY:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;a) cone adjustment&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and/or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) wheel truing&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/wheel-and-rim-truing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/wheel-and-rim-truing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T19:34:48.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8630" CreationDate="2012-03-23T22:38:00.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this conversion depends on where you live. Currently, a lot of niche market factories are producing small parts specifically engineered for fixed gear conversions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see the value of the ghost chainring, but I think it's dangerous, and the ring would be dancing up and down all the time while you accelerate/deccelerate via the pedals, and bob violently on fast downhill, when it is very hard to catch up with the pedals, and when it's most dangerous if you have any surprise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The magic gear has its value, and would give a very very nice setup: easy wheel assembly and reassembly, use a regular skewer (no bulky 15mm spanner to bring along), BUT I think it would last only for a few miles. Slack develops very fast, and you couldn't adjust it with the same chain (but honestly, I'm talking from theory, never used that either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think the solutions that would give you more satisfaction are those that allow you to solidly compensate for chainslack, and most of them were already mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eccentric bottom bracket;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eccentric rear hub;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Custom-made chain &quot;tensioner&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That third option would be a metal pulley held in place below the chainstay by some solid structure rigidly attached (welded, clamped) to the chainstay, with some kind of adjustment (a slot would be perfect).&#xA;It would be necessary to attach it so solidly because, when deccelerating or skidding, the chain would compress this pulley against the chainstay with what might be a hard force.&#xA;Some frames might not be good candidates for doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything you chose, keep in mind that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixies are DEFINITELY not toys. The chance you get killed (or kill yourself) on a fixie in traffic is much greater than on those free-ride bikes in steep trails;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixies are so cheap that perhaps you assemble one as a second bike, and just &quot;fix&quot; your old bike back to what it was: geared, freewheel. Most likely a decent frame or even a whole bike wouldn't cost so much as you would spend with all these boutique components, which in the end are a bit like fancy workarounds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T22:38:00.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-24T00:48:01.777" Score="7" ViewCount="5331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the labels say to use &quot;delicate&quot; detergent.  Well, how exactly do I know if its &quot;delicate?&quot;  I used to use Woolite, but then read somewhere that I shouldn't.  (Article didn't say why.)  So, what's best for cleaning them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3675" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T07:15:03.710" Title="What should I use to wash cycling clothes?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8649" CreationDate="2012-03-24T02:39:42.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm too cheap to buy anything special so i just machine wash cold and tumble dry low, but I've heard from a handful of people that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.penguinapparelcare.com/sport.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sport-Wash&lt;/a&gt; works great on performance/technical/synthetic fabrics. It's supposed to preserve the technical features of synthetic fabrics, and it's also supposed to be better than the average detergent at getting lingering body odor out. For some reason synthetics are really good at holding onto odors. That's a bigger deal for your riding buddies than for yourself if you tend to stay in front of them ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2012-03-27T02:09:15.200" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T02:09:15.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8649" CreationDate="2012-03-24T02:41:00.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wash my workout gear (running, biking, gym, swimming) in cold water with a sports specific detergent. I add a little white vinegar as well. My favorite is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005SPJ81E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Win Sport Detergent&lt;/a&gt;, but cannot find it locally anymore, so I have switched to &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000M4IVXM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Penguin Brands Penguin Sport Wash&lt;/a&gt;. Then I hang it all to dry, no dryer. This has worked well to get sweat odors and not damage the (expensive) gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We now have a front load wash machine which is more gentle on all clothes and I think that helps for the longevity of my sports gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T02:41:00.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8649" CreationDate="2012-03-24T03:07:35.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are wash additives sold to hunters (and available at &quot;outdoor&quot; shops such as Gander Mountain) that do a good job of removing odors -- they're specially designed to get out the fatty acids that contribute to &quot;sweat smell&quot; (and which hunted animals can supposedly sense).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T03:07:35.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8655" CreationDate="2012-03-24T05:01:27.010" Score="2" ViewCount="2159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to describe this problem. I'm fixing a puncture on my bike which is a road bike that requires pumping up to about 90psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I fix the puncture, and I pump it up. At first it's okay, but within about maybe 5 minutes suddenly the valve starts releasing air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take the tube out, there's no puncture, I pump it up a little bit, it doesn't deflate. I put it back in the wheel and try again. Same again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's weird becuase if there was a faulty valve, wouldn't it leak air like all the time and straight away? Not like 5 minutes after I pump it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is my valve busted and I should just get a new tube or is there something I can do to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3489" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T05:14:08.327" Title="Is my valve faulty?" Tags="&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8649" CreationDate="2012-03-24T05:09:42.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assos Active Wear, the the Swiss cycling clothing company, has a specific, &lt;a href=&quot;http://assos.com/en/19/singleProduct.aspx?cat=6,19,31,36&amp;amp;prod=176&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;active wear detergent cleanser&lt;/a&gt; which is required to use if you want to maintain the very respectable warranty on their clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found it to do a great job with odor, and a good job with stains, if you use it as a pre-treatment on the stain itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pAIpK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-27T04:30:09.673" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T04:30:09.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8653" CreationDate="2012-03-24T05:14:08.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like either the valve core is slightly loose, which you can correct by tightening it with a valve core tool, or that the valve core seal is leaking, in which case you can replace the core, which may work, or the tube which is your pretty much guaranteed fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VqXrH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valve Core Tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T05:14:08.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8657" CreationDate="2012-03-24T09:22:21.677" Score="7" ViewCount="8645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my Ultegra 6600 right hand shifter as the ratcheting system is gone. The rest of the groupset is all the same 6600 series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having a hard time sourcing just a right hand side shifter and they cost more than I really want to spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having a hard time working out what shimano shifters are compatible.  I gather there has been a change in the brake pull length, so its critical that I get a compatible shifter for the 6600 brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will a Tiagra 10 speed 5400 combined shifter/brake lever be compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a compatibility chart for the brake pull options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3723" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-24T10:15:14.060" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T14:14:43.310" Title="Replace Ultegra 6600 STI lever" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8656" CreationDate="2012-03-24T10:13:53.843" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ultegra 6600 STI lever is available as a right hand only part. It should cost around $400 dollars for the right shifter only, and around $600 dollars for the set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any Shimano 10 speed rear shifter, including the new Tiagra 4600 10 speed will be compatible. If you have current brakes, and you use a 10 speed STI lever, as previously noted, you will have no problem with the brake pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The compatibility chart can be found here.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nr1zG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Drivetrain Compatibility Front&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LK1uA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Drivetrain Compatibility Rear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-30T14:14:43.310" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T14:14:43.310" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8659" CreationDate="2012-03-24T10:21:27.063" Score="1" ViewCount="4269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been cycling for several years, but recently I developed calluses on the pads of my palms. I'm referring to small raised lines, similar to those you would get from weightlifting. And, by the location I mean: the start of the raised part of the palm which controls the thumb, near the middle of the palm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These calluses appeared &quot;overnight&quot;, and although I'm not sure why, I had spent some time caring for my bike (handling oils and lubricants) and then cycled quite a lot in grim, wet weather. They appeared as a result of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these have developed, they are irritated by the pressure I put on my hands through cycling on a road bike (I usually cycle 20km each day) - and so, they are not getting any better and may be getting worse over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested to know any strategies for relieving the pressure on this part of my hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, will changing my bike setup change where I put pressure on my hands? How can I set that up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use drop handlebars, so where should I grip the handlebars to minimise pressure on my hands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3724" LastEditorUserId="3724" LastEditDate="2012-03-24T10:28:20.643" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T15:51:48.973" Title="Calluses on palms/Pressure on hands - what to do?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;injury&gt;&lt;bike-setup&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8658" CreationDate="2012-03-24T10:52:39.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a tighter glove that can't slide against your palm. Use the hoods more than the bar tops. A bicycle fitting or perhaps just a stem with some rise could help reduce pressure on hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T10:52:39.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8658" CreationDate="2012-03-24T13:21:09.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they did really appear over night you may want to consult your doctor as it may be a symptom of something more serious.But if you mean it occurred over a week or two you might try changing gloves.If you got lubricant on your hands and in the gloves it may be an allergic reaction that happens every time you put them on.There is also the possibility that you have developed an allergy to the glove itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T13:21:09.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8658" CreationDate="2012-03-24T13:31:07.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the main cause is riding in the rain.  Being wet increases the friction between glove and bar and between palm and glove.  You then unconsciously &quot;take advantage&quot; of the increased friction to hold your hand at an angle of rotation relative to the bar that would not be possible dry.  The skin of your palm gets &quot;scrunched up&quot; as it resists twisting on the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T13:31:07.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8669" CreationDate="2012-03-24T13:35:17.610" Score="15" ViewCount="23843" Body="&lt;p&gt;With puncture repair kits, generally you get like 6-8 patches and a tube of glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is I can really only use the glue for the first patch because once it opens, it just ends up drying up. Am I putting the lids on wrong or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have plenty of the patches left. It's pretty much the glue that makes me keep having to buy more kits. Why do puncture repair kits only have one tube of glue? Is there anywhere where I can buy just the glue in bulk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3489" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T02:38:31.257" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T12:59:24.207" Title="Why does the glue in a puncture repair kit dry up so quickly?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2012-03-24T14:02:49.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cynic in me says, &quot;So you will buy more puncture kits&quot;. I too have never been able to reseal the glue well enough to use it more than twice, and only then when I had two punctures a short time apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy rubber cement in a bottle. There seem to be at least two kinds: the type used for cut and paste for layout (the paper based technique kind that preceded electronic publishing) and the type used for rubber repairs. You want the latter. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=rubber%20cement&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&amp;amp;hs=2XS&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&amp;amp;prmd=imvns&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&amp;amp;biw=1400&amp;amp;bih=967&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=5956420084076594136&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=btJtT8irFsfn0QHprYj_Bg&amp;amp;ved=0CI4BEPMCMAU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one example&lt;/a&gt; I found by searching for rubber cement. I tried contact cement, but it didn't work very well; the formulation isn't right for tube repair. I haven't tried automotive rubber cement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are glueless repair kits. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/530/do-glueless-tube-patches-work-as-well-as-glue-ones&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T14:09:01.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-24T15:08:30.943" Score="17" ViewCount="6884" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Uglify your bike&quot; was mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/4763/1255&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; as a theft deterrent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;strike&gt;2010&lt;/strike&gt;2009 Canondale F3 and I'm thinking about locking it up in Manhattan from time to time. I think that Uglifying will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3U9Ef.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should one best uglify a bike? How would you do this without disassembling the bike? Would spray paint stick to the current paintjob, or would I need to use paint remover or to sand the current paint off? What about the components? I don't want to ruin the bike in the process of trying to keep it, but I would prefer not to remove all components and cables, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I know that having another beater bike &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/security&quot;&gt;and other options&lt;/a&gt; are great, but I'm trying to figure out how to ride &lt;strong&gt;my&lt;/strong&gt; bike and keep it from being stolen (or even looked at).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I've removed a part on &quot;Does anyone have any evidence that uglyfying does or does not work...&quot;  It's now &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8678/evidence-on-uglify-your-bike-effective-theft-deterrent&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1255" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T00:03:51.330" Title="Reduce Resale Value to Avoid Theft? (Uglify)" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8664" CreationDate="2012-03-24T16:34:32.527" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing is to note that vibrant, brightly-colored objects are by nature more attention-getting, so I hope your bike is not bright red, light orange, yellow or bright green. I have noted that gray bikes are less noticeable and even hard to see in some conditions. Dark blue, dark gray, pale or dusty white, and brown are also favorable colors to make a bike less noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen many bikers disguising their machines by wrapping the frame, or parts of it using duct tape. Some types of duct tape are less shiny than others, and some have a rather weak adhesive that won't be too hard to remove. The advantage of duct tape is that being skillful, you don't need to take apart the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With bikes that have straight tubes, you can find some PVC leftover piping that you can cut lengthwise in order to make a sleeve to be inserted around tubes. Depending on the pipe fitting it can even look very cool, but the point is, PVC is very easy to paint with spray paint or many other types, so you can &quot;uglyfy&quot; the pipe as much as you want, but you can remove it from your bike if you want. Having more patience you can make covers for the joints in the frame and make the PVC piping fit really well so it won't be obvious that it has a cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the components, you can cover then with a lot of materials, for example I use a sleeve made out of old inner tubes to wrap the crank arms, held in place with zip ties. I made that for protection actually, but it cleverly covers also the brand name tag. This very same technique can be used in chain stays, seat tube, handlebars hubs and even brake or shifter levers. Just make sure that the tube isn't &quot;too black&quot; nor shiny. This material can be almost invisible in twilight conditions and cluttered environments, so almost any other bike will drag more attention than yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other components, like derailleurs, shifters, levers, I would recommend to partially cover them with &quot;hot glue&quot; and let the glue become dirty. The hot glue won't stick too hard on metal, so it will be easily removable. There are transparent and non transparent types, I recommend the latter as it disguises branding better. Use it wisely to cover badges and the like, but don't make it get into pivots or anything. You can stain the glue with black oil, grease or dirt making it look even uglier. You can add dirt and dust when the glue is still warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I give this advise based on experience and what I've seen other riders do in my city. I use some of these tricks, not all of them. I personally commute on a dark blue bike that is not so shiny, and most my components are matte black or matte gray and generic (so I don't have brand badges to cover). I have left the bike unlocked among a lot of motorcycles at my workplace and nothing has happened to it without making it look like trash ;) but I can assure you that this bike is hard to see, to the point that to myself, when I'm approaching the parking lot it's hard for me to find it from a distance, even knowing where it is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally a note of advice on safety: Disguising your bike and making it less noticeable is dangerous in traffic, so make sure you use bright of reflecting clothes, reflective straps on ankles, elbows, wrists, etc, a bright helmet, a bright backpack or whatever you find useful, so you are easily seen by drivers and pedestrians! You can attach the blinking lights to your backpack instead of the bike, as long as they are correctly positioned and oriented, they will serve their purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your project!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T23:05:24.443" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T23:05:24.443" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2012-03-24T16:38:56.170" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think those tubes of glue are pretty much universally the same and I've never had an issue with a tube drying up (surprisingly). Maybe try to get the tiniest bit of the stuff around the rim of the tube so that when you close it up that will dry up and create an airtight bond that will protect the glue inside. Come to think of if, that's probably why I've never had a tube dry up because I use the tube itself as the applicator.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can buy the tubes of glue separately but they cost roughly as much as the patch kit itself. If you really wanted to buy it in bulk, you could go to an automotive shop and purchase a tub of the stuff. Regardless of the application, it's referred to as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=vulcanizing%20fluid&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&amp;amp;aq=t&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla%3aen-US%3aofficial&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&quot;&gt;&quot;vulcanizing fluid&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Glueless patch kits will get you home. That's about it. Not nearly as reliable as glue type patches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T16:38:56.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8632" CreationDate="2012-03-24T16:46:27.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with all others stating your body changes day to day, but little. I also agree that your physical condition a the time makes you feel like wrong fit in the bike. So I throw you a bit of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you riding the same trails every time? Maybe you are riding different trails and that contribute to the wrong fit sensation, as a position may be close to optimum for one type of trail but not for another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do your work or other routine change frequently? Recent activities can affect the way your body feels. Is not the same to ride after a week of office based, all time seated work, than after a week walking, carrying stuff back and forth. your body will be tired and strained from different muscles, thus affecting your ability to reach and sustain certain riding positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T16:46:27.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8664" CreationDate="2012-03-24T18:39:13.993" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did it in what I consider a &quot;perfect&quot; way: sticking LOTS of reflective stickers (home made) covering every logo on the bike. Of course it is just a part of the uglification program (others include never washing the paintjob, and strapping any new stuff on the bike with duct tape, tube rubber strips or bread bag ties).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works three ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The logos get hidden, so anyone would look at a fancy bike and see just a regular bike;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get extra-safety, because your bike is way more visible at night;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bike looking too much as a vehicle, or as a bike that is seriously ridden, gives the impression that is beaten instead of &quot;manicured&quot;, so thieves might not be so interested.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as a benefit, you keep the original stickers and paintjob protected under the reflective material (in the other hand, I could never get the refectives out, they are REALLY sticky...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This photo shows some of this reflection. In really dark conditions, it makes a lot of difference. (I'm the guy on the left):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E5dd0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T18:39:13.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2012-03-24T18:51:35.193" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You only need to apply a drop of glue a bit larger than a pea (about 7mm diameter) per patch;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue inside eventually dries. If you only have a puncture once a year, most probably the glue remaining from the last puncture would be dry &quot;no matter what&quot;. Also, there is an expiration date of around two years, but I think it's two years if you didn't open it yet;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(IMPORTANT) When you attach the cover of the tube, BE SURE TO REMOVE ALL THE AIR INSIDE by pressing its bottom untill half a drop shows up in the opening, otherwise the glue will evaporate inside the very tube (happened to me a lot of times until I figured it out...).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These glues have a volatile nature. I wouldn't buy it in large amounts, but rather to buy new spare glue tubes (without the whole patch kit). The kind of patch I use also have this problem: the patches (a small roll I have to cut with a scissor) last much longer than the glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T18:51:35.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2012-03-24T18:54:44.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use preglued patchs in the road kit.It is one less thing to carry,they go on quickly and no need to wait for the glue to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T18:54:44.700" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8628" CreationDate="2012-03-25T06:11:33.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd wait for Liquid Image's Ego to be released this June. $149, 1080p HD, small, waterproof, rechargeable, built-in wifi so you can monitor and control from your iPhone or Android. Buy a black one, and maybe you can embed it into a bicycle helmet without compromising the integrity too much. This camera was announced at the Consumer Electronics Show this January, 2012. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3731" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T06:11:33.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-25T06:25:00.913" Score="5" ViewCount="1337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tange 68x103 mm bottom bracket (pictured) that I plan to use in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8000/shimano-105-early-to-mid-1990s-slr-groupset-on-ebay-worth-it-for-70s-supercycle&quot;&gt;an old steel frame&lt;/a&gt; (building a single-speed/fixed). It turns out that my non-drive-side bottom bracket shell threads were a bit destroyed. My LBS was able to chase/tap quite a bit of it, perhaps enough to fit Hollowtech-style BB cups that they likely tested with afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the Tange BB has a very long left cup and it does not fully fit into my BB shell. I would like to somehow shorten it. &lt;strong&gt;Given that the BB cup has no lip on it, I plan to insert it in reverse on the non-drive-side, and then somehow cut it down to size, likely with a hacksaw. Is this a crazy idea? Does anyone have tips on ensuring the threads are preserved?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll likely cut off 6 threads or 1/4&quot;. From my point of view, the function of the cup would be preserved if I can successfully do this. Am I wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.benscycle.net/bmz_cache/a/a1a0837709b9deb5702d1c46199e4f77.image.700x524.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tange 68x103 BB http://www.benscycle.net/bmz_cache/a/a1a0837709b9deb5702d1c46199e4f77.image.700x524.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T20:45:59.537" Title="Cutting down cartridge bottom bracket left cup" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-25T07:55:07.237" Score="3" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7413/kickstands-and-mountain-bikes&quot;&gt;Kickstands and mountain bikes&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just around my country, or is this a global thing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bikers riding MTB specifically do not have kickstands. They simply drop a bike on the ground, or lean it somewhere, when they need to park it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is that? Is the added weight really that much of a trouble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T12:43:22.627" Title="Why are kickstands so much hated by MTB bikers?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-03-25T15:45:17.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7413" CreationDate="2012-03-25T09:45:31.553" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;If, by stands, you mean bike mounted kickstands, then the reason most mountain bikers don't use them is three fold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safety. The kickstand is usually a relatively cheap piece of metal, bolted on wherever it will fit. Its shape and style lend themselves to ending up in your wheel or otherwise damaging the bike, if they are not secured to the frame so they can't accidentally deploy themselves while riding a rougher trail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight. If I pay a ridiculously large amount of money to buy a light weight, high performance machine, the last thing I want to do is pay extra to make it heavier. So that does play a part, but I wouldn't say it was the key factor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No need for it. As you mentioned, most riders are perfectly comfortable dropping their bike on the ground wherever they pause for a minute or two, and dealing with cleaning and fixing any damage that may cause when they get home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-25T09:53:19.097" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T09:53:19.097" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7413" CreationDate="2012-03-25T12:43:22.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you won't see kickstands on more expensive bikes.  The primary reason is that a standard kickstand that mounts to the chain stays just behind the BB simply won't fit.  Beyond that, the standard kickstand will often not reliably support a bike, and it's better to lay down a bike than have it fall down.  There's also the problem that the standard kickstand often interferes with pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are better-designed kickstands (2-3 different designs) that mount differently and which more reliably support the bike.  You will occasionally see these on touring bikes.  But they're quite hard to find (and of course would not work on fiber and probably AL bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T12:43:22.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23599" CreationDate="2012-03-25T13:57:27.850" Score="22" ViewCount="9765" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any evidence that uglyfying does or does not work as a theft deterrent? It doesn't have to be scientific: even anecdotal evidence helps (and maybe well-founded opinions)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question was originally &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8664/reduce-resale-value-to-avoid-theft-uglify&quot;&gt;part of this one&lt;/a&gt; but I was asked to separate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1255" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T21:20:04.723" Title="Evidence on &quot;Uglify Your Bike: Effective Theft Deterrent?&quot;" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8684" CreationDate="2012-03-25T16:09:13.203" Score="2" ViewCount="649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a pair of campagnolo/mavic wheels without a freewheel.&#xA;I'm finding it very hard to understand what will fit on the rear hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's English thread, does this mean that any 8 speed freewheel will fit (as long as it is an English thread)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, what rear derailleur will I have to use (if I buy a Shimano freewheel, can I use a 8 Speed campy derailleur, or does it have to match)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, will this influence what front cranks and chain wheel I get (If I buy a Shimano/Campy freewheel, will I have to get a matching crank/chainset combo)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to understand the whole crankset picture in one go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to the wheels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170802467619?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&amp;amp;_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_1413&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170802467619?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&amp;amp;_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_1413&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3559" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T05:24:08.510" Title="What crankset should I buy to suit an 8 Speed Campy freehub?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8678" CreationDate="2012-03-25T20:16:04.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never experienced if uglify-ing your bike works as a deterrent, although I know that cycle couriers in New York use duct tape to cover up the bikes quality from potential thieves. &#xA;As quite often they don't have the time to lock their bike up. Because of the numbers of them doing it, my guess would be that it works: They wouldn't do it if it didn't have some effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I'm experimenting with this. I've just got my frame sprayed black to allow it to blend in. On top of this, I'm going to place duct tape over the frame and cables to hide the quality, at the end of the day I'm not bothered if people know what bike I'm riding, it's the ride that matters, not how it looks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3559" LastEditorUserId="1255" LastEditDate="2012-03-26T03:21:58.303" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T03:21:58.303" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8673" CreationDate="2012-03-26T00:30:08.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The RIGHT way to do this is to screw a STEEL bottom bracket lockring on to the BB cup BEFORE you reach for the hacksaw.  You can then clamp the lockring in a vise (not the BB cup) and spin the cup in the lockring until you have the exact number of threads you want to remove sticking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the cut by lining up the hacksaw flush against the lockring so you get a straight cut and make the cut.  THen you simply unscrew the BB cup out of the lockring.  The threads in the lockring will repair the threads on the BB cup as you unscrew the lockring off the cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3736" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T00:30:08.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8678" CreationDate="2012-03-26T00:52:51.610" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that hard evidence is going to be difficult to come by -- doing anything resembling a controlled experiment would be enormously expensive, and cyclists are too disorganized (by this I mean lacking unified organizational structure) to do some sort of sampling-based measurement or epidemiological study.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just observe that, &lt;em&gt;in my opinion&lt;/em&gt;, bike thieves come in several varieties, with differing motivations, and the likelihood that a particular bike will be selected for theft depends a lot on the type of thief:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glitter-attracted impulse thief.  Someone sees a fancy/shiny bike (by their standards) that catches their attention, has low self-control, and so just rides off with it, on a lark.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Necessity/opportunity thief.  Someone is in an immediate situation where a bike would be handy (eg, it's raining, or they're in a hurry), sees one, and rides off with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Theft for personal acquisition.  Someone sees a bike they like, feel that it would be a good bike for them, and takes it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Theft for resale.  Someone steals bikes to sell for money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the last two categories there's also the division of theft for the whole bike and theft for parts (or removing parts from the sitting bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these categories, the first will probably be put off by &quot;uglification&quot;, but it will have relatively little effect on the second type of thief.  (In fact, the second thief may be apt to pick a less-expensive looking of several equally available bikes, to lessen the seriousness of their crime -- at least in their own minds.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third thief will have specific attributes in mind for a bike and may or may not be put off by the obfuscated appearance, depending in part on how perceptive he is.  (But keep in mind that of the four he's the most likely to spend time studying the fine points of the bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fourth thief will likely know how to recognize a valuable bike, even obfuscated, but may choose to pass over one that has been permanently defaced or which would take too much effort to clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also evaluate these categories based on how effective locks will be.  The first thief is apt to be deterred by a halfway secure lock but may (or may not) have at hand the wherewithal to defeat a lightweight one.  The second thief will almost certainly pass over a bike that is at all encumbered with a lock, even skipping a bike locked only by the QR-attached front wheel.  The third thief may be willing to spend some time defeating a lock on a bike he desires but may not be especially skillful, while the fourth thief will have the skills and tools to defeat many locks quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The character of the neighborhood, time of day, etc, will affect the mix of these different thief types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T21:20:04.723" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T21:20:04.723" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8679" CreationDate="2012-03-26T03:30:47.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freewheel threading is pretty universal. You can put any freewheel which is appropriate for your drivetrain on those wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether you choose Campag or Shimano, stick with gear designed for one system, and as much as possible one gear number. (8 speed, 9speed, etc...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if you use an 8 speed Campag freewheel, use 8 speed Campag shifters, chain, derailleurs, and either an 8 or 9 speed Campag crank set. You will need the appropriate bottom bracket to match your crankset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to mix and match a bit, mostly the chain could be either Shimano or Campag without major issues. But best to stick with one system, especially if you don't understand the compatibility changes you're making. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, those wheels are tubulars. That is, glue on tires. Were you aware of that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-26T05:24:08.510" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T05:24:08.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8628" CreationDate="2012-03-26T11:56:10.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dogcamsport.co.uk/dogcam-bullet-hd-camera-WIDE.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DOGCAM Bullet HD Wide camera&lt;/a&gt;, on the basis of a decent camera at a good price. The Contour HD is a nice camera but too expensive for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DOGCAM Bullet is compact unit, 80mm long and 22mm diameter. Waterproof so strapped to my helmet for kayaking, on the bike I tend to strap it to the bars. It'll last a couple of hours on a battery charge, it's an internal battery which is charged via the mini USB port in the back of the camera. Plugging in via the USB it just appears as a removable flash drive on the computer to copy the video's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only real gripe with it is the on/off switch, there's very little tactile feedback to know if I've pressed the button. It does have a small LED at the front to indicate when it's recording or the memory card is full but in daylight conditions it's not the easiest thing to spot. When it's on my bars I really have to lean forward and squint to see the LED. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a fair review and example video on &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycleseven.org/dogcam-bullet-hd-wide-review&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cycleseven&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2707" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T11:56:10.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2012-03-26T14:12:21.903" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;World human powered bike speed records are indeed on recumbent bicycles. But they are very long, flat roads where a rider can move through 60 gears (30 speed chain, and a 3 speed internal hub). They also have larger wind screens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden both, and just flat cruising the recumbent will be faster, but hills, corners, and stops are the great equalizer. Every time you slow down or stop, things will seem to balance out on your total times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So go for what is comfortable, easy to lock up on your commute, and not a hazard to others. I assume that on a shared bike path with a tadpole trike it will be harder to pass and be passed safely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T22:59:05.863" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T22:59:05.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8690" CreationDate="2012-03-26T14:38:07.940" Score="2" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;The the default tires from my scott aspect 30 (Schwalbe Black Jack, 26 x 2.1, 50TPI) are peaty worn by know and i need to buy new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main complain is the punctures made by vegetation every day I ride, the next day I have to change the tube because of a small hole on the front tire mainly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm inclined to buy this configuration &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;front: Mountain King by continental 26 x 2.2&#xA;back: Race King by continental 26 x 2.2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I on the right direction? any other recommendation? &#xA;does my weight (79 kg/174 pounds) has any influence on my choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3665" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T15:02:33.293" Title="Puncture resistant tires" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;performance-tracking&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8688" CreationDate="2012-03-26T14:57:03.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can see here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/general/innovation/Protection_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/general/innovation/Protection_en.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...you are going to have an excellent tire. These tight-fabric protection (kevlar or aramid, I guess) work great (at least are working great in my Marathon XR).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For XC and off-road, I think the tight fabric might be preferred over the thick-inner-rubber protection (a la Schwalbe Marathon Plus) due to performance issues (weight and rigidity, mostly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to use anti-puncture tape (Mr.Tuff, Sttones) between the tire and the tube. On the road, these have served me very well (after I finally gave up being skeptical - suffered so long in vain...). In the other hand, on off-road, where pressures are lower and tire deformation is higher, perhaps the built-in protection is a better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T14:57:03.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8688" CreationDate="2012-03-26T15:02:33.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Continental makes a version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/mtb/cc_marathon/MountainKing22/MountainKing22_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mountain King&lt;/a&gt; (Mountain King 2.2 Protection) with a higher TPI and their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/general/innovation/Protection_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ProTection&lt;/a&gt; anti-puncture system.  I would recommend spending the extra cash on the Mountain King's with this feature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could pick up some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrtuffy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tuffy Liners&lt;/a&gt; to add a layer of protection to your existing tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T15:02:33.293" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8678" CreationDate="2012-03-26T15:20:15.953" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years ago in Toronto, what was probably one of the biggest bike theft busts ever happened. Igor Kenk was trading drugs for stolen bikes, and stockpiling them by the thousands. (Supposedly he was planning to corner the market post-econopocalypse or post-ecopocalypse and be a king). Anyways, you can see pictures or the thousands of bikes that he stole:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MJLuh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;kenk auction&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gw4D0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;kenk auction 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are definitely a lot of ugly bikes in there, I can't pick out any that are &quot;uglified.&quot; It's not great evidence either way because I couldn't even hazard a guess about what percentage of bikes are uglified for comparison. I don't think you can draw much of a conclusion from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/zandersaar/2790241356/sizes/o/in/photostream/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/zandersaar/2790241356/sizes/o/in/photostream/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thestar.com/news/crime/article/776159--bike-thief-igor-kenk-released-from-jail&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thestar.com/news/crime/article/776159--bike-thief-igor-kenk-released-from-jail&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T15:20:15.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8649" CreationDate="2012-03-26T19:35:04.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cycling clothing made of synthetic materials (lycra, spandex, etc), a modern, high efficiency washing machine, or even a normal machine on a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;gentle cycle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, is the way to go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cold water mild detergent or &quot;athletic&quot; clothing detergent. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gentle cycle and cold water. Optional, pre-rinse with 1/2 cup white vinegar. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hang to dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For expensive wool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prior to having a high efficiency machine, I hand-washed with a &lt;em&gt;wool specific detergent&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My current machine has a &lt;em&gt;wool/gentle&lt;/em&gt; cycle. I use that now with an appropriate detergent. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lay flat to dry. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Well, how exactly do I know if its &quot;delicate?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The detergents are usually labelled as such. Generally, detergents labeled, &lt;em&gt;&quot;cold water&lt;/em&gt;&quot; will be fine. The bike shop guys will say that you need to use &quot;special&quot; detergents. Nah. Any cold water detergent will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW - I have 10+ year old jerseys that are perfectly fine. The shorts and bibs don't last so long, and I figure it's the wear and tear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-03-27T07:15:03.710" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T07:15:03.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8678" CreationDate="2012-03-26T20:02:02.287" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may qualify as anecdotal evidence.My riding buddies carbon road bike had a section of top  tube cut out to steal his kids $200 mountainbike off of the trunk mounted bike rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T20:02:02.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9071" CreationDate="2012-03-26T20:17:00.910" Score="1" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;What companies make matching sets of rando bags (with a clear map pocket and opens toward the rider) and seat mount saddle bags (not panniers) made from waxed canvas, duck cloth, or other non-synthetic material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found only one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acornbags.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.acornbags.com&lt;/a&gt; that seems to have completely matching sets that meet my requirements. Are there other companies?  I've checked out velo orange but their offerings are poorly matched as they have 3-4 different brands which don't look great together and no larger saddle bags that match the one rando bag they offer. Zimbale bags looked promising, except their front rack bag doesn't have a map pocket and opens away from the rider...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have front and rear racks with a platform, I'd prefer not to have to rely on having the rear rack installed unless I plan on touring. So, I'd prefer that the saddle bag be seat/seatpost attached only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-27T18:55:06.813" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T16:43:44.183" Title="Matching Rando bag and seat-attached saddle bag?" Tags="&lt;bags&gt;&lt;randonneuring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2012-03-26T21:29:21.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that repair kits are thought for repair shops where patching tubes is more frequent, so you can use all the glue before it dries up inside the tube. Smaller kits that are for emergencies include two to five patches, and a very small tube of glue, generally enclosed in a disposable case, but are not universally available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My trick to get a little more out of a glue tube is that I pile up a few punctured inner tubes, and patch them at home, all of them at a time so I use more glue every time. Then I always carry one of these tubes in my backpack so I just change the tube, instead of patching while in the trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least in My country it's easy to find only the tubes of glue, which I find curious: Is it that manufacturers know patches last longer than the glue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T21:29:21.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8626" CreationDate="2012-03-26T23:43:37.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to stick with your roadie mates, ultimately you'll need to switch to a road bike. All of the issues you raised affect your ability to stick with them, and getting sorted with a good road bike will address each of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, road bikes use the wattage you're outputting more efficiently, they allow you to be more aerodynamic, and they're lighter. The faster you go, the more important each of these are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get marginal gains from modifying your commuter, but I recommend planning for a road bike. Keep your hybrid for commuting and your road bike the real riding. You'll enjoy your time on the bike far more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3331" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T23:43:37.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8700" CreationDate="2012-03-27T01:38:59.973" Score="5" ViewCount="24583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently switched the pedals on my road bike over to the SPD clipless system. The pedals I got have an adjustable spring. Tightening the spring increases the force required to twist one's foot out, while loosening it does the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, I set the tightness as low as it would go. I have ridden the bike every day in the last week without issue, and without even the prophesied falling (though I'm sure my time will come!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, while biking uphill against a strong headwind, my foot detached from the pedal, and I nearly lost control of the bike. It seems to me that this is the result of pedaling vigorously while also swaying a bit to keep my balance. This also seems like exactly the wrong time to have one's feet come loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This event makes me think I should tighten up the spring. At the same time, I have had several near falls where I forget to unclip at a light, but was able to quickly unclip after stopping and catch myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: Is it more dangerous to set the tension too high or too low?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: What sorts of schedules might be optimal for gradually tightening up the tension while learning to use the clipless pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T04:22:17.133" Title="What is the Optimal Tightness for Learning to Ride with SPD Pedals?" Tags="&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2012-03-27T01:52:55.057" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preference is to start with the pedals wound right back so your feet fall out if you even think about unclipping. But from my experience of novices most people will fall off at least once due to being clipped in. Regardless of how loose the pedals are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a week or so, or when the learner starts complaining that they're unclipping unexpectedly, I crank the tension up to normal levels. I'm not a fan of any kind of gradual change. I do err a little on the loose side while they work out what tension they prefer, but not in a smooth change fashion. It's a step to &quot;firmly fixed&quot; in one hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it's more dangerous to have the tension too tight - at some point anyone will be unable to unclip without damaging themselves - your ankles are not particularly good with twisting forces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did find when I was learning was that there are time when I twist my feet in the pedals without realising it, so I was unclipping unexpectedly not because of pedalling force per se, but through half unclipping then pedalling. If you're off the saddle and throwing the bike around a bit, you may well have been pulling sideways out of the pedal. Don't do that :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastEditorUserId="3582" LastEditDate="2012-03-27T23:15:58.700" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T23:15:58.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2012-03-27T02:05:01.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tighten the springs up a little if your feet are starting to pop out. Before I moved from SPD's to TIME's I had the SPD's cranked down as tight as they would go and I would still blow out of them and the scars on my kneecaps to prove it :/ &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The biggest thing you need to do as you tighten the pedals up is to practice clipping in and (especially) out to build up the muscle memory. Eventually you'll find yourself twisting your heels outwards even when riding flat pedals. So..&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Tighten the springs several notches,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-go in your backyard where there a soft area to fall over onto (and where nobody can see you),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-clip in and out a few dozen times.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Repeat this for a few days. If you find yourself tightening the springs down significantly again, run though the routine again. I'm not guaranteeing that you won't fall over anyway, but in my experience this process has helped new clipless riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T02:05:01.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2012-03-27T02:06:08.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Setting the release higher than your comfort level is asking for trouble.The risk of not being able to unclip while in traffic is just too great.As you get to the point that you are popping out more times than you forget to unclip increase the tension in 1/8 turn increments until you are not unclipping unless you want to.If at any point you feel that you are having trouble getting your foot unclipped back off the tension a little.As everything wears unclipping will be smoother and more consistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T02:06:08.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-27T04:15:18.333" Score="7" ViewCount="1223" Body="&lt;p&gt;My two-year-old daughter has a full right arm, a left arm that stops above where her elbow would be, no right leg at all, and a full left leg. We have found a product she can ride (the Amtryke), but it's awfully expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to have a hand and foot cycle that is something like this product:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amtrykestore.org/AM-9XS_AM-9S-AM-9S_with_Bucket_Seat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amtrykestore.org/AM-9XS_AM-9S-AM-9S_with_Bucket_Seat.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't want to purchase that product due to cost... we are willing to build it ourselves in order to keep the cost down. Maybe we could collect parts from multiple used kids' tricycles? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We would be willing to purchase a bike if it were more in the $100 range - - the above product would be $400 for now, and she'd grow out of that quickly and need the $700 version. That's WAY too expensive for us!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3744" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T17:03:48.767" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T17:03:48.767" Title="How to build a combination hand &amp; foot cycle" Tags="&lt;build&gt;&lt;handcycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8694" CreationDate="2012-03-27T04:39:29.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wallbike.com/brooks/handlebar-bags/brooks-cornwall-handlebar-bag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brooks Cornwall handlebar bag&lt;/a&gt; matches your needs, in leather, and in multiple colors.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0Gk9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brooks Cornwall handlebar bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matched with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wallbike.com/brooks/saddlebags/brooks-glenbrook-saddlebag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Glenbrook Saddle bag&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0NQpv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the Glenbrook Saddle bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wallbike.com/brooks/saddlebags/brooks-challenge-tool-bag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Brooks Challenge Roll-up Tool bag&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BgHAY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Challenge roll up&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it would be pretty nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these, along with a multitude of other brands and styles can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://wallbike.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Wallbike.com site&lt;/a&gt;, or your LBS can order them for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-27T04:45:18.627" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T04:45:18.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8707" CreationDate="2012-03-27T18:46:03.303" Score="4" ViewCount="2540" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm looking for drip style containers to keep in my messenger bag and my home shop to dispense bike chain lube. I want to just buy a 32oz container of lube for cheap on amazon and fill my own dispensing bottles since I need to clean a lot of chains on a lot of bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001XRW0DY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Chain-32-Ounce/dp/B001XRW0DY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT11?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;coliid=IR73EP9U85298&amp;amp;colid=41YO2K2T7TMA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have maybe one small bottle of chain lube, which I'm not sure how to refill (it doesn't appear to be made to be dissassembled). Does anyone know where I can find dispensing bottles that can be securely closed for transport with all the other crap in my bag?  I've checked a few science supply places online, but havn't found anything that would drip dispense and also have a screw cap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T00:28:28.187" Title="Where can I find containers to dispense bulk chain lube" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8704" CreationDate="2012-03-27T18:59:31.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask around at bike shops and community bike shops for empty lube bottles. They're sure to find one or two in the recycling bin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T18:59:31.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8704" CreationDate="2012-03-27T19:11:58.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need to pick up a large number of bottles quickly then I would look for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickblick.com/products/plastic-squeeze-bottles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drip Bottles like these&lt;/a&gt;: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nmmf3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I would just pick up a couple of bottles of lube from my local bike shop that had screw off lids and refill them when they are empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T19:11:58.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8704" CreationDate="2012-03-27T19:56:54.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the best kind of lube container is the Finish Line one, or similar. It has a nozzle that can be snapped off easily for refilling, and a threaded cap which covers it all. The &quot;secret&quot; is the threaded cap, which actually presses the removable nozzle against and into the bottle's neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I guess there are three ways to use it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy one, use it, and then refill it indefinitely with the lube of your choice (that's what I do at home and in my carry-along toolbag. Have not had any spilling so far, and I shake them a lot while riding);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a product that has the same design (medicines, hair products, etc.), buy some, use them, and then reuse the containers. I found the last image I post below looking for &quot;eyedropper bottles&quot; on google images;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find similar ones to buy off the shelf. I don't have experience with that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what I am talking about (this is the 100ml bottle, there are smaller ones):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hg0nf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;eyedropper bottles&quot;, showing the inner removable nozzle on the second bottle from left to right (with threaded cap removed):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tC9xr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="26152" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T00:28:28.187" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T00:28:28.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8702" CreationDate="2012-03-27T20:29:49.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you can probably get a copy of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://giftofmobility.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PET&lt;/a&gt; plans for free, if you ask nice.  It's a pure handcycle, but designed for easy construction, and they should have sources for the parts, etc.  You could perhaps adapt the design for your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T20:29:49.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8673" CreationDate="2012-03-28T07:48:06.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another alternative would be to find a LBS with access to &quot;Sutherland's Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics&quot; and find a BB with the appropriate measurements. Much easier, and quite possibly cheaper in the long run. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3751" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T07:48:06.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8704" CreationDate="2012-03-28T13:18:14.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about any drug store sells travel bottles in small sizes for those who need &#xA;to stay within TSA limits for carry-on.  There's a large assortment of sizes &amp;amp; cap designs including applicator caps suitable for chain oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful about the conical snip-off caps pictured above unless you're using them on a bottle small enough for one shot use.  The little red caps at the tip don't hold on well and will leak in your pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3752" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T13:18:14.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-28T13:24:07.163" Score="10" ViewCount="3069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard recently that Simon Gerrans of the new Green Edge cycling team had won one of the monuments.  What are these races?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T02:26:29.767" Title="What are the &quot;monument&quot; races?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8711" CreationDate="2012-03-28T13:33:49.007" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the world of professional cycling, the 'Monument' races are five of the oldest and widely considered most prestigious one-day races held each year. They are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Milan – San Remo (Italy) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tour of Flanders (Belgium) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paris–Roubaix (France) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Liège–Bastogne–Liège (Belgium) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Giro di Lombardia (Italy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information can be found on each race, and the &quot;Classics&quot; in general in the Wikipedia article &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Classic_cycle_races#The_.27Monuments.27&quot;&gt;Classic Cycle Races&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A key factor in the argument that Eddy Merckx is the greatest competitive cyclist ever is that he won 19 Monuments - the next rider on the list won 11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T13:33:49.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-28T14:28:58.813" Score="0" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a company charity ride to Dublin and was wondering how hard the route was and how many days to expect to take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3753" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T15:23:47.010" Title="Has anyone cycled London to Fishguard?" Tags="&lt;london&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-08-23T20:06:03.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8713" CreationDate="2012-03-28T15:11:19.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems likely, since that is exactly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sustrans.org.uk/what-we-do/national-cycle-network/route-numbering-system/route-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NCN 4&lt;/a&gt; - however, I haven't found any references to people riding the length of route 4, and the CTC route database isn't giving me anything either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I plugged Charing Cross to Fishguard into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net/journey/1840481/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cyclestreets&lt;/a&gt; and it reckons a shade under 300 miles (for the &lt;em&gt;balanced&lt;/em&gt; route). Whether that means three consecutive 100-mile days, or five 60-mile days will depend on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd take the cyclestreets routes with a grain of salt, or at least study them carefully (and compare with the sustrans route description and mapping linked above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and I see about 2km of total ascent on that route, with what look like some steepish sections once you're into Wales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastEditorUserId="3311" LastEditDate="2012-03-28T15:23:47.010" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T15:23:47.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-28T16:00:56.323" Score="2" ViewCount="2975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Race King (continental) 2.2 MTB 28&quot; tires that I need to store until it's winter and snows again. They are foldable, and I planned to store them in their original boxes, but how do I properly fold them so they fit in the boxes like they did when they were new? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to just fold them, but they don't fit in the boxes. I need a good description of how to fold them, and pictures are welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2883" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-19T06:11:05.063" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T06:11:05.063" Title="How do I fold a bicycle tire?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8726" CreationDate="2012-03-28T16:17:50.787" Score="16" ViewCount="48259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just spent the last 10 minutes trying to put a new set of grips on to my mountain bike handlebars..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old ones came off fairly agreeably and I've got the new ones 80-90% of the way on, however, at this point both my hands are stinging from the aggressive twisting and pushing - I have tried gloves, but I feel it's best left till my hands don't hurt anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a tried and tested way of doing this? Or is there a knack to this that I am missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3361" LastEditorUserId="3361" LastEditDate="2017-02-16T09:26:07.497" LastActivityDate="2017-10-04T17:20:08.707" Title="How do I put grips on mountain bike handlebars?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;grips&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2012-03-28T16:37:05.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;to begin with, have them really lose so it's easy to get out of, but then when you've learned the turn so you always do it without thinking. then try to make it harder, it's very different from person to person this. But I liked to have them really loose so you can get out of them. Still I fell probably 20-30 times my first run with them. An this is the falls were you know that it will happen 3 seconds before it happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so the basic rules are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;practice a lot of clicking in and out before you take your first ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make them loose so it's easy to click in and out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make yourself comfortable with having the pedals on when you ride. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this last point is easy to try with just easy riding, so you stand up, brake, stop and make yourself comfortable with that before you have your first serious ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't do all this, and it hurt, a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2883" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T16:37:05.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-28T17:31:47.763" Score="2" ViewCount="2891" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me start from the beginning: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About three years ago, I broke my leg after buying a Gary Fisher Joshua MTB, when I was just getting into road and cross-country riding. I've only started riding again recently, and the chain is slipping etc and the gear selector won't go into the top cog on the rear. It's my own fault for leaving it static and not at least having it serviced whilst it was in my garage. So I've decided to rip the drivetrain apart and start again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Can someone help be identify what gear shifters to buy, as well as how to replace the front cogs (3 cogs &amp;amp; crank, rear 8 cogs), derailer and rear mechanical bits, and obviously the chain? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the look and feel of the Shimano Alivio components, would those be good for this kind of riding? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Future work: I will probably change the front shocks and rear suspension bit as well as new handle bars and grips/barends too. The wheels and tyres are pretty much brand new, have only ridden about 150 miles.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jt4Dr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5JNV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;enter image description here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m6GMe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXNGo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the reason for changing is that it all looks a bit naff. The two silver tubes at the top of the shox are corrording also, so will probably get a new front end also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need help on the front derailer, and rear mech if possible.  I have ordered a new rear cassette (Shimano HG31 11 30T) and new crank and chainset (Shimano Alivio MTB 42T 170 BLK) and Shimano shifters (St-M410 Aliio STI).  I'm looking at Shimano Deore V-Brakes also as the ones on the bike are starting to corrode. This ia all my own fault for not looking after the bike when I was off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need some advice on front/rear shocks - handlebars etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it may sound stupid, but where can I get the bikes bolts from?  As the ones on are proper rusty and look a mess!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3755" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-03-30T02:05:11.917" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T02:05:11.917" Title="Maintenance/Upgrades for Gary Fisher Joshua MTB" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8716" CreationDate="2012-03-28T18:11:53.270" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best solution (probably available only at shops): use an air compressor with a narrow tip to inject air between the grip and the handlebar at an angle (like spiralling around). This will create an air cushion and you can move the grip around (keep moving the air jet as you apply the air jet, since only in some positions the air cushion is formed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less professional method is what I use to do at home:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash bar and grip perfectly, with water and soap, to remove grease (even the grease from your hands). If the grip is new, probably not needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spill like a small spoon of alcohol inside the grip, and shake it inside a bit to make all the inner side of the grip wet with alcohol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quickly (before the alcohol evaporates), insert the grip, twisting and pulling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In case it gets harder from the middle to the end of insertion, two strategies might help:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push from the bottom (lateral part) of the grip, so as to &quot;fatten&quot; it in a barrel shape. This increases its inner diameter, allowing it to snap into position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull from the inner border, like you would pull a sock around your foot, preferrably with both hands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am eager to know other alternatives, because this not always work. Specifically, it might take a few days untill the alcohol eventually disapears. Before that, some slight slipping might happen, but usually nothing serious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T18:11:53.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8716" CreationDate="2012-03-28T19:08:37.443" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two solutions I've used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray the inside of the grip with hair spray. Slide it on immediately, and then when the hair spray dries, it will glue the grip in place. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use rubbing alcohol. It does not do as good of a job at locking the grip in place, but it does evaporate quickly and doesn't leave any lubricant inside the grip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3756" LastEditorUserId="3639" LastEditDate="2012-03-29T13:37:20.193" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T13:37:20.193" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8718" CreationDate="2012-03-28T20:50:33.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is in line with heltonbikers.Bring the bike to a local shop and have them look at it.A simple tune-up may be all that is needed.Many shops offer spring specials so call early to avoid delays.I am not sure why you assume you need to replace all these parts .My theory on upgrades is to wait until there is a need to replace a component.If a parts is functioning and meeting your needs why replace it?My guess is that if both were properly adjusted most people couldn't tell the difference between the alivio and deore line.If your shifters are beyond repair that is the time to upgrade.My fisher marlin disc came with alivio and I think they're a great shifter.They are 4 years old and still work great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T20:50:33.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8723" CreationDate="2012-03-28T21:34:33.167" Score="4" ViewCount="49316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized HardRock from the '90s.  It's seen better days, but I got it for cheap.  I had a bike shop look it over, but for some reason the guys missed the rounded off teeth on the front gears.  Whenever I ride it, the chain slips every few rotations.  I'd like to get a new crankset, but i'm not quite sure what will work and what won't.  Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3757" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T06:07:33.013" Title="Can any bike crankset be exchanged for another?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8722" CreationDate="2012-03-28T21:52:05.540" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main intercompatibility issues with cranksets are the connection between the crank arms and the bottom bracket spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bikes from that age (not to say all mountainbikes) use square taper bottom bracket, for which is very easy to find good quality cranksets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These look like the leftmost spindle in the picture above (which also show newer types, that are less likely to be what you need):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h2iTz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also take a look at the page from where that image came, in the excelent website of Sheldon Brown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other compatibility issues might be related to the length of the bottom bracket and the length for which the crankset was designed. Using different-sized bottom brackets and cranksets might result in a misaligned chainline, an ill-working front derailer, or in extreme cases a chainring running too close to the frame. This is so for tapered square, but I am not sure about the other types. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-29T02:40:27.383" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T02:40:27.383" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="429" CreationDate="2012-03-28T22:08:40.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use to successfully reshape chainrings like these using a round file (diameter more or less similar to the chain roller). This is a tried and tested method, and is very easy (much more than doing the same with the cogs, which I also do when needed). The only limitation is with skill and time, since it is a bit monotonous and require a bit of labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just have to remove material in a way that it gets the same shape as the others, which means the teeth would be thinner looking from the side. Of course, it is necessary to remove the chainring from the crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(and a final advice would be: change the chain often, before this happens again)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture below shows the regions that must be removed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abbx6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T22:08:40.090" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-29T00:35:29.433" Score="2" ViewCount="5152" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple as that. I thought I could He-Man the fork to fit the hub as it's only 3 mm on either side. Looks like it requires a bit of force and I'm concerned about breaking something in the long-run; either the frame or the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1804&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Origin8/Formula front hub&lt;/a&gt; and an &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8000/shimano-105-early-to-mid-1990s-slr-groupset-on-ebay-worth-it-for-70s-supercycle&quot;&gt;old steel frame&lt;/a&gt; (1970s or so) that seems to be in decent condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which option is best: reduce the hub spacing to 94 mm or widen the fork to 100 mm? And in either case, what's the way to go about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front hub is the top one in the picture below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpvhm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Origin8 / Formula track hubs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Turns out my problem wasn't spreading the fork. It was the fact that the axle diameter was too large for the fork dropouts. I filed the trailing edge of the dropouts and tried again to spread the fork to accommodate the hub. It fit without issue. Pictures below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7071/7028521773_0d973bf11a_b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Axle in dropout after filing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-12T05:10:44.383" LastActivityDate="2019-01-12T05:10:44.383" Title="100 mm front hub, 94 mm fork dropouts, options?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8716" CreationDate="2012-03-29T04:40:49.887" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im not kidding. Saliva is a great lubricant that will dry with little residue, and depending on any sugars in your system, could be a little tacky. I have done this for years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T04:40:49.887" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8716" CreationDate="2012-03-29T07:53:55.103" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Distribute thin zip-ties around the inside of the grip somewhat evenly so that they provide slippery &quot;rails&quot; on which the grip can slide on the bar. Once the grip is in place, pull the zip-ties out (with pliers if necessary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3053" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T07:53:55.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-29T12:32:38.770" Score="2" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me try to explain my situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have three bikes. We probably have about 3 or 4 locations where we may leave the bike (home, work, parent's place etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't want to be carrying a light everywhere as most times we ride in the day time, so my plan is to leave one light at each place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a bunch of lights already but each light generally come with one plastic mounting thing (that thing you put on your handle bar so the light will sit on) and all the lights I have seem to have different types of mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess I got two problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) One light only has one mount, therefore one light can only go on one bike.&#xA;2) If I want to put a different light at each place, I pretty much need to put about a couple of mounts on each of the bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess one solution is to throw away my existing lights and just invest in 4 of the same brand of lights. But just in case, is there like adjustable mounts I can get which would fit all lights and for which I can essentially just mount on each bike and each light would fit on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard of Knog Frog lights which seem convenient but they look too small to be safe for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3489" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T16:21:59.660" Title="Are there any light mounting products that is adjustable?" Tags="&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8725" CreationDate="2012-03-29T13:13:49.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three milimeters each side for a large-wheel fork is perfectly inside what you can correct with &quot;cold setting&quot; the fork, without compromising safety. Of course a 70's fork is steel, so better yet, because steel is a good material to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do is to find a good &quot;instrument&quot; to use as a lever. If you get lots of cardboard (or have access to a lawn) you can step over the headtube of the bike with one foot, and over the fork leg that stayed against the ground. Then, with the magical lever, you bend the upper fork leg slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important that the lever be rigid, otherwise you will store elastic potential energy in the lever, and so you cannot control so well the 3mm needed on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rough ilustration is below (fork in black, ellipses are your feet, and lever in brown - suggested a wooden framework):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bSrOM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And most important: go very slowly and check each movement. It is much more tedious to do so, but the result is much better and you avoid regret later (telling from experience). Using a symmetrically dished front wheel (perhaps the very one you will get assembled with the hub) would be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T13:13:49.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8729" CreationDate="2012-03-29T15:38:05.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option for front lights would be to replace them with torches and rubber/velcro mounts such as below, these would be interchangeable and fit pretty much anything - I have even got my iPhone on to one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FU55X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Light Bike Mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for rear lights you may have to invest in 3 sets of the same light. alternatively in the past I have had to DIY mounts using elastic bands in emergency (not long term solution).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FBlyH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Elastic Band Rear Light&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise consider carrying the lights with you! in the long run it's probably more sensible to have one set that you can keep track of battery wise and condition wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3361" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T15:38:05.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8725" CreationDate="2012-03-29T16:42:39.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to provide ANOTHER answer, but I think this one might be interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a rear (135mm) axle;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert two nuts, one around each side, untill they are less than 80mm apart. One of them might be inserted just enough to allow a small piece of thread to show up in the tip;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit the axle into the fork dropouts with the bike upside down, so that both nuts are beween the dropouts;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start to &quot;unscrew&quot; one of the nuts, thus forcing the fork legs to get away from each other;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew it after a while and check the distance. It might take some time to figure out how much elastic deformation (preload distance) you'll have to overcome before actually making the new distance permanent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is much more controlled than the lever one detailed previously, but it most probably will take much more time (although I think a rear axle and some nuts are easier to prepare than a large improvised lever system).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T16:42:39.737" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8718" CreationDate="2012-03-29T18:11:11.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;thanks for the rapid responses.   OK here goes, please, correct me if im wrong about any info i give.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, it currently has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a CSC42R Crank - shimano&#xA;shimano 30 11 cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is a 24 speed bike  with shimano thumb touch shifters.  I'm not really sure what other info you require, point me in the right direction if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really am sorry im not much help, im kind of embarassed to be honest.  A fish completely out of water!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ill get some pics tomorrow so hopefully you can 'see' what info you need.  is there any particular pictures that would help significantly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3755" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T18:11:11.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8737" CreationDate="2012-03-29T18:49:23.957" Score="4" ViewCount="1451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently got a single speed with a flipflop hub and got the bike shop to switch it to the fixed cog.  While riding around, the gear came loose on the back hub and almost flung me off so I had to bring it back to the shop to get them to tighten it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone use any thread locking fluid on the rear wheel gear to keep it from slipping on the hub or will tension from the lockring keep it secure enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if anyone has used thread locking fluid, did they have any problems getting a polymerization reaction to occur due to a low electrochemically in the hub/cog due it being made from aluminum or some other lightweight material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3762" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T10:02:04.077" Title="Thread locking fluid on fixed cog" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8736" CreationDate="2012-03-29T19:01:54.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a fixed gear type hub, not a dual freewheel flip flop hub, and a lockring which is properly installed, there is no benefit to using threadlock on a fixie hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thread lock works just fine on aluminum, although it tends to cause stripped fasteners because it requires more torque than most aluminum fasteners can handle. With a fixie lockring, though, there aren't enough threads (surface area) to really benefit from a threadlocker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-30T10:02:04.077" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T10:02:04.077" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8736" CreationDate="2012-03-29T19:18:41.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A better solution if you're using a suicide hub configuration (a freewheel hub with a fixed cog) is to use an old-school bottom bracket lockring to hold the cog in place. It's not ideal, as the lockring threads aren't reversed, but it's better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with this setup, I'd still recommend re-tightening frequently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T19:18:41.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8736" CreationDate="2012-03-29T20:45:21.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fixie was bought second hand, with this configuration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular threaded hub for freewheel (only one thread);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Glued&quot; sprocket;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Glued&quot; lockring, probably taken from a bottom bracket, a headset, or something similar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, the suicide hub already mentioned...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend not to skid, but I use the &quot;deccelerating&quot; function of the fixie a lot, and it never came out. I guess who mounted the kit (probably some acquaintance of the guy who sold me the bike) made it right, with lots of torque on either the sprocket and the lockring, and enough amount of good quality locking glue over clean surfaces (by the way, steel cog, steel lockring, aluminum hub).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a broken spoke on the drive-side (cannot insert another, cog gets in the way), and I think I will not risk disassembling and reassembling this glued configuration, because I think it is too risky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am only riding it yet because, I think, if it is not broken, don't fix it (pun intended).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, answering you question: yes, I use such a hub, ride daily with a bit of &quot;emotion&quot;, and it is working great, never came loose. But I plan to switch to a better quality hub, assembled the right way, very very soon. Piece of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(by the way, since I have a relatively firm double-wall semi-aero rim, I keep riding even with one less spoke. Actually, it is wrapped around other spokes. Thank God centrifugal force exists!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T20:45:21.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-29T20:57:43.107" Score="41" ViewCount="138681" Body="&lt;p&gt;My road bike has now done 500 miles, but unlike cars, I've no idea how often the tyres should be changed. It's used on normal road conditions. The brow of the tyre is now smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know if my tyres need to be changed, and how long should I expect tyres to last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3765" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T16:29:44.863" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T18:52:49.017" Title="How often should I change road bike tyres?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8740" CreationDate="2012-03-29T21:42:12.187" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long a tire lasts depends on a number of factors, including what type of tires you ride, how much you weigh, the conditions you ride in, front vs rear tire, etc.  In general, a good set of tires will last a couple thousand miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the tire is totally worn out, you can usually see threads beneath the rubber in places.  Alternatively, the tire may start to bulge in spots.  In practice, road tires rarely get to this point.  Much more commonly, they start accumulating a lot of cuts from glass and other debris in the road.  When you start getting disproportionately many flats, it's a good idea to replace the tire (you can use the tire longer, but you'll probably waste more than a new tire's cost in tubes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3458" LastEditorUserId="3458" LastEditDate="2012-03-30T00:53:36.937" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T00:53:36.937" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8740" CreationDate="2012-03-29T23:39:04.893" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change them when they're worn out -- either cracking on the sidewalls (due to age, sun, and underinflation, possibly exacerbated by poor tire quality) or the rubber in the center is getting paper-thin and you start getting a lot more punctures.  Simple lack of tread is no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And it should be noted that in the OP states his tires are &quot;bald&quot; in 500 miles -- a very short distance.  Unless he'd been like a kid laying rubber with the brakes, the tires in question likely have a center strip that is essentially tread-free to start with.  This is a common design to minimize rolling resistance.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T10:57:44.617" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T10:57:44.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8740" CreationDate="2012-03-30T01:00:04.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Always&lt;/em&gt; wipe off and inspect the tires after every ride. Look at the sidewalls as well as the tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get about 2,500 miles from Continental Grand Prix 4000S, a high-end road tire. The rear tire always goes first. Then I rotate the front tire to the rear, and put a new tire on the front. I've never had to replace a front tire due to tread wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Continental tires also have wear indicators -- two little dots in the tire -- to let you know when the tread is gone. That's where I get the 2,500-mile figure from; it takes me about that long to get to the point where the wear indicators are shot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3766" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T01:00:04.430" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8711" CreationDate="2012-03-30T02:26:29.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://pelotonmagazine.com/Wisdom/content/19/1112/Pro-Racing-The-Basics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Peloton Magazine (http://pelotonmagazine.com/Wisdom/content/19/1112/Pro-Racing-The-Basics):&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Monuments Five races—Milan-San Remo, the Tour of Flanders,&#xA;  Paris-Roubaix, Liege-Bastogne-Liege, and the Tour of Lombardy—carry&#xA;  the distinction of being called the Monuments. They are so named&#xA;  because they began prior to World War I; the youngest of the events,&#xA;  the Tour of Flanders, was first run in 1913. The roads they travel&#xA;  were used during the World Wars and now the courses are lined with&#xA;  memorials to the war dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Milan-San Remo: At 298 km (185 miles), Milan-San Remo is the longest&#xA;  of the five Monuments. Traditionally run the third week of March,&#xA;  Milan-San Remo signals the shift into high gear for the Spring&#xA;  Classics. The race is held in Italy and its course runs from the city&#xA;  of Milan to the small town of San Remo on the Ligurian coast near the&#xA;  French border. Conditions are generally cold at the start but with the&#xA;  run to the coast, the finish is much warmer. The course features&#xA;  several significant climbs and the final two, the Cipressa and Poggio,&#xA;  are effective at thinning the pack so that only the strongest sprint&#xA;  for the finish. Italians have won the race in 50 of the 99 editions.&#xA;  Belgian Eddy Merckx holds the record for the most wins with seven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tour of Flanders: The Ronde van Vlaanderen is the first of the&#xA;  Northern Classics. It is generally run the first Sunday in April, one&#xA;  week before Paris-Roubaix. It covers a 262 km (163-mile) course from&#xA;  Brugges in the north to Ninove outside of Brussels. It is famous for&#xA;  its 17 hills, which range in length from 375 meters (410 yards) to 2.2&#xA;  km (1.4 miles). The climbs are called “muur” (wall) because many are&#xA;  steep at some point; 11 of the hills have sections with gradients of&#xA;  11 percent or more and eight have sections made up of cobblestone. If&#xA;  the roads are damp, riders are frequently forced to dismount their&#xA;  bikes on the steepest sections of hills and walk up. It’s a bit like&#xA;  trying to climb a mountain in your dancing shoes. Many Belgian riders&#xA;  have said that winning Flanders is more important to a Belgian than&#xA;  wearing the yellow jersey of the Tour de France. Belgians have won the&#xA;  race 65 of the 92 times it has been run. Achiel Buysse, Fiorenzo&#xA;  Magni, Eric Leman, and Johan Museeuw are tied for the record of most&#xA;  wins, with three apiece; all are Belgians except for Magni, an&#xA;  Italian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Paris-Roubaix: Considered the “Queen of the Classics,” Paris-Roubaix&#xA;  is the only Monument run in France. Best known as the “Hell of the&#xA;  North” for the sections of cobblestone roads it traverses in Northern&#xA;  France, it is held the second Sunday in April.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Over its 260 km (162-mile) course, Paris-Roubaix submits riders to 28&#xA;  sections of pavé (French for cobblestone). The sections of pavé range&#xA;  in length; some are as short as 200 meters (218 yards), while the&#xA;  longest are 3.7 km (2.3 miles). The sections are rated in difficulty&#xA;  from one star (easy) to five stars (reserved for the most difficult&#xA;  sections). These are the same cobblestone roads used in World War I.&#xA;  The most famous (and difficult) sections—the Arenberg Forest,&#xA;  Mons-en-Pevele, and Carrefour de l’Arbre—are traditionally the site of&#xA;  attacks that can tear the race apart. The cobblestones jar the body&#xA;  terribly, can be slippery, and are the source of untold numbers of&#xA;  punctures. Riders will run exceptionally low tire pressure (sometimes&#xA;  as low as 50 psi) in an effort to cushion them from the rough surface&#xA;  and reduce the likelihood of a puncture. Most don’t finish the race&#xA;  due to one or another of the many setbacks a rider can encounter. As a&#xA;  result, riders speak of the luck required to win at the velodrome in&#xA;  Roubaix. Crashes are frequent and often spectacular; it’s kind of a&#xA;  full-contact roulette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The day’s weather can make a big difference in the race; if there’s&#xA;  rain, racers can be forced to ride through mud, while on dry days dust&#xA;  can affect racers’ breathing and vision. Imagine trying to skateboard&#xA;  through a quarry and you’ll have the idea. Though the race is French,&#xA;  it is a particular favorite of the Belgians, who have won it 52 times&#xA;  in 106 runs. Roger De Vlaeminck holds the record for the most wins:&#xA;  four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Liege-Bastogne-Liege: As the oldest of all the Classics—first held in&#xA;  1892—Liege-Bastogne-Liege is called “La Doyenne” (a sign of respect,&#xA;  something like Grand Dame). It is one of two Classics held in the&#xA;  Ardennes region of Belgium (the other is Fleche-Wallonne) and is known&#xA;  for an exceptionally hilly course with 12 notable climbs.&#xA;  Liege-Bastogne-Liege is held the last Sunday in April over a 261 km&#xA;  (162-mile) course. The course only takes in two of the 12 climbs in&#xA;  the 105 km run from Liege to Bastogne on the trip south, but after&#xA;  leaving Bastogne, the riders are taken on a circuitous route over 10&#xA;  of the 12 climbs. And while the race is called Liege-Bastogne-Liege,&#xA;  the race’s finish is in the town of Ans, which is a bit like having a&#xA;  race called Denver-Colorado Springs-Denver finish in Boulder. Belgians&#xA;  haven’t fared so well in their race since Eddy Merckx’s last of five&#xA;  wins (the record) in 1975. Since then, only four Belgians have given a&#xA;  salute in Ans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tour of Lombardy: The “Race of the Falling Leaves” is the only one of&#xA;  the Monuments held in the fall. The running of the Giro di Lombardia&#xA;  signals the end of the season for most top riders. Generally held the&#xA;  second or third week of October, the Tour of Lombardy was originally&#xA;  called Milan-Milan, the course has changed many times; today the start&#xA;  takes place in Varese and the 242 km (150-mile) race finishes in Como&#xA;  on Lake Bellagio. The race contains a number of significant climbs,&#xA;  with six of them notable for their length. The race’s most difficult&#xA;  challenge is the climb up to the historic chapel of the Madonna del&#xA;  Ghisallo, which holds bikes and memorabilia of many great former&#xA;  riders. The 8.6 km (5.3-mile) climb contains a maximum grade of 14&#xA;  percent. The race is an overwhelming favorite of Italian racers, who&#xA;  have won 67 of 102 races. Fausto Coppi holds the record for the most&#xA;  wins: five.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1650" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T02:26:29.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1823" CreationDate="2012-03-30T05:24:49.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great idea to add chain guard to 21 speed bike.   Easy, if you are handy with cutting and grinding.  Just remove the 'back side' of the chain guard that is closest to the frame.   Your pants will thank you, and your friends will say, OH, no more funny looking pant leg clamps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3770" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T05:24:49.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8465" CreationDate="2012-03-30T11:04:14.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It hasn't been difficult to get french pedals direcly from the French ebay! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1290" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T11:04:14.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8756" CreationDate="2012-03-30T12:47:20.490" Score="1" ViewCount="8943" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to purchase a bike for my commute to work and want a bike I can attach a back rack to. Looking around on-line it is very hard to figure out with which bikes this is possible. What is the term for the points that you connect a rack to? Or more generally, what should I search for that tells me a bike has these points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3772" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T14:06:39.747" Title="What are the things called that you attach a rack to?" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8740" CreationDate="2012-03-30T13:24:27.110" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_wear&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schwalbe&lt;/a&gt; give the following figures for their tyres:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general guide, you can expect a tire mileage of 2000 to 5000 km from Schwalbe standard tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires of the Marathon family usually last between 6000 and 12000 km. With the light Marathon Racer and Marathon Supreme, the performance is a little lower (approx. 5000 to 9000 km). The Marathon Plus is outstanding with its extremely high mileage of approx. 8000 to 15000 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No useful mileage data is possible for MTB tires because the influence of riding style is too dominant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our racing bike tires Durano and Ultremo last from 3000 to 7000 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That page also has some pictures showing tyre wear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T13:24:27.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8754" CreationDate="2012-03-30T13:38:11.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd call them &quot;rack mounts&quot;, which is what pake, surly, and all-city tend to use on their websites to describe them.  Alternatively you could call them &quot;braze ons for racks&quot; or even &quot;rack bosses&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Sheldon Brown &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Boss&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A bump or protrusion. This term has several specific bicycle usages:&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cantilever bosses are the brazed-on pivots attached to frames and forks for cantilever brakes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shift lever bosses are brazed-on pivots for down-tube-mounted shift levers. Most newer &quot;road&quot; bicycles have the shifters mounted on the handlebars, so they use the old-style lever bosses as attachment points for housing stops&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Older style freewheel pullers had two (or four) protruding bosses that engaged the notches of the freewheel body. This system was prone to failure when removing freewheels that were unusually tight. The development of splined freewheel removal systems made this obsolete&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Braze-on&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A small fitting permanently attached to a frame. On traditional steel frames these attachments are held on by brazing, but the term &quot;braze-on&quot; is also used for fittings that are welded, glued, riveted or molded onto frames of other materials. Typical braze-ons include cable stops and guides, water bottle cage mounts, shift lever bosses, cantilever brake bosses and cable stops, pump pegs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T13:38:11.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8754" CreationDate="2012-03-30T13:38:32.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are called rack braze-ons,  braze-on rack mounts, rack mounts, or pannier mounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much any aluminum frame or steel frame will have them, but they are easy to spot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a set of 4mm threaded hole near the brakes and near the frame's dropouts at the wheel axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt that fits it is M5 x 0.8, but the hole measures 4mm because the threads on the bolt and the threads in the hole overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example image of a true braze-on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sq2x9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Upper, true braze-on rack mounts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And another of a machined &quot;braze-on&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OdvRG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lower, machined &amp;quot;braze-on&amp;quot; mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-03-30T14:06:39.747" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T14:06:39.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8722" CreationDate="2012-03-30T14:07:57.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like this bike likely came with a square taper bottom bracket and crankset.  I'd recommend taking the dust caps off your crank arms and verifying this first.  You may also need to remove the bolt holding the crank on the bike. If it is indeed a square taper (you'll see a square box sized hole in the crank where the bolt was), then that's good news. It's really easy to find cranks that will fit a square taper bottom bracket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this FSA Crankset would probaby be a decent replacment for not a lot of cash&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001PT7TM2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/FSA-DynaDrive-Sqare-Crankset-22-32-44/dp/B001PT7TM2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T14:07:57.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7413" CreationDate="2012-03-30T14:10:58.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kickstands are to be used in bikes that will have to be nicely parked, like commuting bikes, touring bikes or stylish and decorative bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mountain bike, or a road bike or anything used for racing is a bike intended to spend &lt;em&gt;ahem&lt;/em&gt; more time actually riding than parking, and the added weight, clutter and risks do not contribute in absolute to the rider/bike performance during a race. Well, not everybody is a racer, but remember that almost any bike designed for sporting is marketed after the racing performance of the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a definitive answer, any accessory you may want to fit to your bike, is to be analyzed in terms of cost-benefit, considering the specific combination of circumstances that you ride, and if you get a greater benefit than the cost (i.e. trouble) it causes to you, then make anybody else shut up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side, anecdotal note: I remember the bike my grandfather used, a heavy but very comfortable 28&quot; wheeled commuting bike. It had a double kickstand that held the bike completely upright and lifted the rear wheel, It was mounted near the rear axle and had a complete loop side to side around the tire. It was wonderful to go shopping to the local market, since the bike was completely upright while you loaded the rear rack with groceries. But my grandfather didn't use to go shopping and due to his style of mounting and dismounting, he got hurt many times with the kickstand's protruding, so, for him that was out of the question, he removed it. It was the first thing he did to any other bike he ever owned!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T14:10:58.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8715" CreationDate="2012-03-30T14:29:37.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't figure out how to fold it back like it came, you can try a method of looping it 3 times to fold it in to a smaller size which works for non-folding tires as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to fold a tire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://home.comcast.net/~mandmlj/tirefolding/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://home.comcast.net/~mandmlj/tirefolding/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or a video version of this method from sheldon brown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/video/tire-folding.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/video/tire-folding.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T14:29:37.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8729" CreationDate="2012-03-30T14:52:09.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you only use the lights rarely, then you could leave a roll of electrical tape at each location. You can take the light mountings off your bikes. If you need a light tape it on, and afterwards throw away the bit of tape you used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For front lights tape over the light and under the bar, and back up over the light crossing the first taping at 90 degrees, and go under the bar again. For back light it might be trickier as depending on the design, tape may end up going over the lens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, you'll have to make the judgement as to whether this is suitable as a cheap solution. If you want something more permanent, perhaps buying a matching lights would be the best way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T14:52:09.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7413" CreationDate="2012-03-30T15:20:06.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They can catch on stuff&lt;/strong&gt;. Ground/obstacle clearance is really important. My wheels are often whizzing past rocks with mm of clearance, or even brushing against them. And I'm often dropping down stepped terrain, which means the pedals cranks etc get close to the ground, you don't want anything else that could cause contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Faff&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;Offroad cycling is tough on bikes. When cycling with buddies, you don't want to be the one asking everybody to stop whilst you sort out some bike problem. There's enough going wrong with chains coming off or snapping, gears and brakes being knocked out of alignment, punctures, etc. Anything attached to your bike that doens't help with propulsion is a gimmicky waste of pedalling effort, and just counts as something unnecessary that can go wrong. If there's more than three or four of us going cycling, we split up into mini groups, just because if the whole group stops when anything goes wrong we'd never actually get back before dark. Kick stands can go wrong, and don't help with propulsion.. their extra mass actually slows you down!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pointless&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You should expect to be falling off your bike from time to time anyway, so it's going to end up on the floor whether or not you had a kick stand attached. So, just put your bike on the ground if you're stopping for a wee in the bushes :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cycled up snowdon (the highest mountain in Wales) last weekend. I estimate that for a not over weight kickstand you'd be looking at 1lb or approx .5 kg. With a height gain of about 1000m, that would be about 5000 joules or 1250 calories extra energy I would have burnt. And that's just the total height gain and doesn't include bouncing up and down individual boulders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose if you're trying to lose weight then that's about the only reason for a kickstand on a mountain bike, but you might as well wear a rucksack with a rock in it so you don't reduce the ground clearance or reliability of your bike :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="472" LastEditDate="2012-03-30T15:37:02.520" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T15:37:02.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8658" CreationDate="2012-03-30T15:51:48.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Toolbiker said, tighter glove sound like a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suggest using a thin glove without padding, put the padding on you bar instead, maybe by wrapping another layer of bar tape over it. Also, the increased diameter of the bar with some more tape may give you a more relaxed grip and dissipate forces over a larger area of your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also consider slightly lowering your saddle. This should shift a bit of your weight from the bars to your saddle. But, obviously don't overdo it because you'll end up breaking your knees instead if you go too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get plenty of hand creams which you could apply after cycling to try and help the skin recover. Again though, its also true that you could soften the skin too much... the callouses probably have actually developed to thicken your skin and give your hand underneath more protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T15:51:48.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2923" CreationDate="2012-03-30T16:49:13.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some traffic lights in some cities have sensors which detect a strobe pattern emitted by emergency vehicles like ambulances, firetrucks, and police cars.  I've heard that it's more of an urban myth that they would be triggered by devices not designed to be picked up by the sensors or by drivers flashing their high beams.  However, it's possible that the flashing headlamp you use is bright enough and has a similar strobe pattern which triggers the preemptive mode on the traffic signals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See more at wikipedia:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traffic_signal_preemption&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traffic_signal_preemption&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T16:49:13.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8767" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-30T17:13:17.367" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-03-30T17:13:17.367" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T17:13:17.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8768" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-30T17:13:17.367" Score="0" Body="Single wheel pedaled vehicle. May be designed for on-road, off-road or trick use." OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-03-30T17:13:17.367" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T17:13:17.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-30T17:20:22.633" Score="-5" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My goal&lt;/strong&gt; -- I would like to make a cutout in Fizik Arione.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is &lt;strong&gt;addressed to&lt;/strong&gt; people who tried to make a cutout by themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My very simple question &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; -- how to do a cutout in Arione by yourself, and not destroy the saddle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please answer &lt;strong&gt;if and only if&lt;/strong&gt; you tried to customize Arione by yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2012-03-31T15:30:09.077" LastActivityDate="2012-03-31T15:30:09.077" Title="How to make a cutout in a Fizik Arione?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2012-03-30T22:55:25.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8769" CreationDate="2012-03-30T18:02:36.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, an answer.  If you try to modify the Arione, it very much does matter which model you have. If the base of the saddle is composite, then you could make a cut out. But it is unlikely to last very long. I expect that the filler materials, the gel, the foams will simply move out of place out of your new cutout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it uses the woven base, the one that is soft material like kevlar, then you won't be able to make the cutout without damaging it at all, IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are complaining about a product which you think should be designed better, but the fact is, it's a product which works for a lot of people as is. There are a ton of other saddles with cutouts that you could choose. If you don't own the Arione, you aren't locked in to using it, as you implied in your question. So find a saddle that works for you, rather than buying a saddle you aren't happy with, and trying to modify it. It makes no sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T18:02:36.293" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2012-03-31T12:18:22.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One point you need to consider is that it takes time for you to get used to sitting in the saddle.  If you only ride occasionally then you might have problems.  I personally have found that as the season starts it takes about a dozen 1 to 2 hour ride to condition myself to riding.  The mileage isn't the the issue it is the time spend riding.  After those initial rides I'm good to go for centuries and other events throughout the season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, getting the right saddle is important as well.  You might need to try a couple until you find one that fits your particulars.  But don't forget even then it will take a bit to see if things are right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2012-03-31T12:18:22.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8775" CreationDate="2012-03-31T12:19:14.133" Score="3" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to do a ten-day long tour down the west coast of New Zealand. I'll have some luggage in rear panniers, but no tent (staying with friends and in backpackers accommodation). There'll be a fair bit of uphill and downhill on some days. But I don't forsee that I'll hit gravel - I'll likely stay on sealed roads. Of course, it may rain (as if that isn't obvious).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a steel framed road bike, and I currently ride with 23mm tyres. Because it's an older bike I can fit wider tyres on, which some recommend for touring, but I wonder if it's worth it? In the context of my tour, if I went to 28mm tyres what would the advantages/disadvantages be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3776" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T11:18:08.210" Title="Should I get wider tyres/tires for my tour if I'm not going to go off-road?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8773" CreationDate="2012-03-31T12:58:42.277" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen fully-loaded tourists ride successfully with lightweight racing bikes (of years ago) on what were then called 7/8&quot; tires (which is 22.2mm).  I've also seen them lay their bikes down in the parking lot at lunch and have the tires explode.  (Don't ask me what mechanism was involved, but it happened at least 3 times in a week among a group of maybe 20 on the lightweight bikes, among a larger group of about 200.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a commuter/tourist I favor wider tires (I currently ride 35s), for the slightly smoother ride, better handling on rough pavement, less frequent airing up, and better weight-carrying ability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the main question in your case is whether the tires can simply carry the weight, at full pressure, without compressing too much.  Load up your bike (with dummy weights if necessary), sit on it (or have a friend of the same weight do so), and see how the tires look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-03-31T12:58:42.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9000" CreationDate="2012-04-01T01:17:07.310" Score="1" ViewCount="2572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Anti-Gravity fork that features a removable steer tube, but it is a threaded fork. Where can I buy a threadless steer tube to clamp into it to convert it? All I can find are threaded steer tubes or steer tubes pressed into a specific crown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of the fork: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/files/antigravity_fork_728.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/files/antigravity_fork_728.jpg&lt;/a&gt; . When viewed from the rear, by loosening two bolts I can remove the steer tube (it's already 1 1/8&quot;). Do most forks not do this? Why aren't these more common?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like it would work just fine: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=6997&amp;amp;step=4&amp;amp;showunits=inches&amp;amp;id=71&amp;amp;top_cat=60&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=6997&amp;amp;step=4&amp;amp;showunits=inches&amp;amp;id=71&amp;amp;top_cat=60&lt;/a&gt; , 1.125&quot; OD, with 0.065&quot; walls for a 0.995&quot; ID would that be close enough to put the threadless cap inside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, I'm looking for two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Where can I get the 1&quot; ID 6061-T6 Aluminum, and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Why can't I find this by searching for 'threadless steerer tube'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of my fork specifically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pyL5i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Anti-Gravity Fork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T18:20:39.053" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T13:29:44.440" Title="Where can I get a new steer tube or 1 1/8&quot; 6061 Aluminum Rod Stock?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8776" CreationDate="2012-04-01T03:45:42.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While many older forks used replaceable steerer tubes, the steerer tube is still specifically  shaped for that fork. Tubing will not do it. You need an oem replacement steerer tube. Nobody makes forks like that anymore, hence the lack of google results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, that steerer tube in the photo looks to be steel, and should not be replaced with aluminum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T03:45:42.700" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8794" CreationDate="2012-04-01T10:42:27.407" Score="18" ViewCount="3149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just curious, I use handlebar mounted lights, and since I have multiple bikes to switch, it's a lot of trouble changing the light from one to another. So, I am thinking of switching to helmet mounted lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give me your point of view. Why or why not? Which is better suitable for which riding type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T13:21:45.020" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T17:59:51.647" Title="Bike Lights: Helmet Mounted or Handlebar Mounted" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8784" CreationDate="2012-04-01T13:53:06.793" Score="4" ViewCount="14175" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Son's bike has slime inner tubes.  The bike has been sitting in the garage since last summer and the front tyres valve now seems blocked.  Its has what feels like 15-20 psi in it but I can not get the valve to let any air out or take any more in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea at this point how to get it to unblock the valve so I can use it again.  For that matter I don't know how I could get the tire off as it has a reasonable (not ridable) amount of air in it without slashing the tyres (nice kings 2.2 which are pretty new).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried putting the pump on it and putting a bit of air into it to try and clear the blockage but that didn't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:25:56.593" LastActivityDate="2019-07-01T14:04:00.630" Title="unblock slime presta valve" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;valves&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8781" CreationDate="2012-04-01T13:58:43.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an ideal world, use both. A wide beam light on the handlebar keeps the light on the road in front of you, even when your viewpoint changes, which can save you if an obstacle comes up in front of you in a hurry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the trail curves sharply, and your light is fixed to the handlebar, then the light can be pointed in the wrong direction, which can have the opposite effect. &#xA;Adding a helmet mounted light ensures that you have light where you are looking, i.e. down the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be expensive, but it is the best choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring that option, use a bar mounted light with a bright, wide beam. It is more important to keep light on the ground in front of the bike, that off the trail where your viewpoint might be focused, and a helmet mounted light can be more annoying to other riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just my 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T13:58:43.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8782" CreationDate="2012-04-01T14:02:45.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a valve core tool to remove the core of the valve, and then clean it using a light solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uxvMQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valve core tool&quot;&gt;   &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbGWh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Schraeder Valve Core&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be only a few minutes work. If there is a lump in the flat tire, the slime may have hardened, and the tube may need to be replaced, either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T14:02:45.333" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8781" CreationDate="2012-04-01T21:20:44.170" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no single answer to this other than &quot;do what works for you&quot;. While the optimal answer to this question is to have both a helmet light and one mounted on the bike, not all cyclists have the money to do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are a few things that can help you decide, &lt;strike&gt;Mac or PC&lt;/strike&gt; helmet- or handlebar-mounted light:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Will you be using more than one bike?&lt;/strong&gt; In this case, the answer's clearly &quot;yes&quot;. If you bring the light with you, you can get one great light setup as opposed to several less-expensive lights. (You can do this with rear blinkies as well as headlights, but a blinky on your helmet is best as one that's supplementing a properly aimed blinky mounted on the bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do you commonly need to direct light in places other than right in front of you?&lt;/strong&gt; If you ride on a lot of twisty roads or paths, often need to read street signs, need to watch closely for potholes, etc., then a helmet-mounted headlight would be a handy thing. If you usually ride roads you know well in good repair, you may find a helmet light less useful than one mounted on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the weight on your head a problem?&lt;/strong&gt; This is something you can really only decide by trying it out, or by attaching the equivalent weight to your helmet and riding for a bit. Are you prone to neck problems? Does the weight make your helmet chafe? (It does with mine.) This problem will be more noticeable if you often ride offroad or on bumpy roads. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, you'll have to try this both ways and see what works for you. You can give a helmet mount a test-ride by attaching the light to your helmet with a nest of zip ties, duct tape, and velcro. If you like having the light on your head, you can look for a more elegant solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T03:21:57.713" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T03:21:57.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8788" CreationDate="2012-04-02T00:48:03.363" Score="5" ViewCount="13190" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a ride, usually about 15-30 minutes after a ride, I sometimes don't feel very good. I'll feel sleepy, lazy, lethargic or mentally foggy. It's not a physical tired. And often it doesn't take a great deal of riding to feel this way. For example, today I did about 15 miles and felt this way shortly afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in pretty descent physical condition (I think), and I can ride 20-30 miles, at a steady 15-17 mph, without too much effort. But I'm really confused why I feel this way. I could/maybe should, see a doctor, but I thought I would check here first to see if anyone else experiences this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T01:53:37.400" Title="Not feeling good after a ride" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8786" CreationDate="2012-04-02T01:39:55.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually feel a bit like this in the following riding conditions (one at a time or combined):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;In a rush&quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the cold;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In heavy/oppressive traffic;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a bike that feels heavy;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While hungry (often);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too soon after a meal (rarely);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During an overall mentally busy work day/week;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon after the ride, when you are home and finally relax, the body might react like this. It might be related to the sympathetic component of the autonomous nervous system, which regulates acute responses to environmental stress, exercise, alertness, and the general fight-or-flight response (just for information, the parasympathetic component regulates mostly the rest-and-digest response, when the body and mind are relaxed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is interesting to note that, most times, these are what would be called &quot;non-discretionary bicycle rides&quot;, that is, I am not riding because I went out for the sole pleasure to ride a bike, but because I am going somewhere else to do something else, and the bike is just the transport. In these situations, since I am not necessarily &quot;in the mood&quot; to ride vigorously, it feels like the burden in the body is greater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think using a bike for transport might become a burden when you have some routines. Sometimes one might feel &quot;burnt-out&quot; for riding everyday, sometimes one feel full of energy for the same reason. It is very interesting...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it might be considered normal to feel the way you describe, depending on a lot of conditions, PROVIDED that health issues are discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you should really see a doctor just to make a regular checkup and describe your simptoms, to discard something that deserves greater attention. Then, you could consider some environmental factors (like, for examples, the ones I mentioned) and formulate your own hypotheses and strategies to cope with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope to have helped, and please send some feedback!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T01:39:55.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8786" CreationDate="2012-04-02T01:53:37.400" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, can you explain a bit more about how you &quot;don't feel very good&quot;?  Do you feel at all queasy?  Do you feel especially weak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how often do you exercise so intensely, and how long have you been doing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how long does this period of feeling unwell typically last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, there are several possibilities (though most apply to rides longer than 15 miles):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- Dehydration.  Especially in warmer weather you need to drink plenty of water or other fluids.  We've had arguments here as to how much, but it's not a bad idea to down a 21-oz bottle of water every two hours or so, as very rough guide -- more in hotter weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- Low sodium.  Again, in warmer weather it's quite possible for someone who exercises intensely to sweat off so much salt that the sodium levels in their body are not sufficient.  (This effect can be doubled if the individual consumes an extremely low-sodium diet.)  This results in fatigue and lethargy, and in extreme cases can be life-threatening, especially if mistaken for dehydration (which has similar symptoms) resulting in &quot;water intoxication&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- Low blood sugar.  When you exercise you first consume the sugar in the blood stream, then the liver and muscles start converting stored glycogen to sugar.  Several other mechanisms kick in as well.  Especially in someone who has not trained extensively, this mechanism may not be able to supply the body with enough sugar and low blood sugar can result.  In addition, some people suffer from what's known as &quot;reactive hypoglycemia&quot;, where blood sugar drops paradoxically after a meal, after exercise, or at certain times of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- Ketosis.  If blood sugar gets too low for too long the body begins to burn fat and protein directly.  This results in the production of ketones which are released into the blood stream.  This again results in an unwell feeling, including nausea, extreme fatigue, lethargy, and &quot;brain fog&quot;.  (Ketosis in particular will knock you on your butt for 2-3 days if it gets bad.  Most other conditions listed here you can recover from in a few hours at most, if properly treated.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- Blood pressure fluctuations.  Some people experience fairly extreme changes in blood pressure after exercising.  This is usually short-lived, but can produce a wide variety of symptoms, from pounding headache to fatigue and fainting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- Neurotransmitter fluctuations.  It's well known that exercise (especially intense exercise) causes the release of a number of neurochemicals.  This is cause of the so-called &quot;runner's high&quot;.  And, of course, when one is &quot;high&quot;, one will eventually &quot;come down&quot;, and the result is a sort of &quot;withdrawal&quot; from the endorphins produced while exercising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that you're experiencing a combination of slightly low blood sugar and the neurotransmitter &quot;withdrawal&quot;, maybe combined with a touch of dehydration.  Eating some sweet or starchy snack every 30-60 minutes while riding will help to level the blood sugar (and if it's a bit salty, all the better). Drink a cup or two of water with the snack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when you finish the intense part of the ride, take a leisurely spin around the block or whatever for 5-10 minutes to &quot;cool down&quot; -- not your temperature so much as your endorphins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You can, of course, experiment with different combinations of the above to try to narrow down what's the primary cause of your particular symptoms.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But (though the doctor's checkup is never a bad idea) I wouldn't worry about it too much.  After all, you've just participated in the second-best activity a man can experience, so a little let-down afterwards is to be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T01:53:37.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8716" CreationDate="2012-04-02T03:28:33.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always used hairspray with my grips, it's the best solution in my opinion. It not only keeps them from slipping too far on/off the handlebars, but keeps them from twisting in place. Now, however, I use locking grips like these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/110736653646?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&amp;amp;_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1030wt_1163&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/110736653646?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&amp;amp;_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1030wt_1163&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T03:28:33.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8791" CreationDate="2012-04-02T04:05:20.450" Score="0" ViewCount="7033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building two sets of 26&quot; wheels, one pair of 32h triple cross with Bullseye hubs with machined sidewalls for rim brakes, and another pair of 24h double cross with Alex A-Class hubs with Sun rims for disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now looking for which spokes to buy. I'm comparing double butted spokes between Wheelsmith and DT Swiss. The Wheelsmiths are slightly cheaper per spoke, but I'll end up paying the same because of the purchase quantities, so price isn't really a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking specifically to compare the Wheelsmith Black DB14s 14/15/14 ga (2.0x1.7x2.0mm) vs DT Swiss Black Competitions (2.0x1.8x2.0mm), but if there are other opinions between the straight spokes (2.0mm) - Wheelsmith SS14 vs DT Swiss Champion, that would be also of interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some issues I've heard before:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The DT Swiss butt transitions are nicer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 1.8mm DT Swiss diameter makes the wheel feel more rigid (not always a good thing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 1.7mm Wheelsmith allow more elasticity and give a nicer ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DT Swiss is more readily available (not a large concern of mine)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheelsmith spokes work better with Wheelsmith nipples&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I'm still on the fence between the two. Wisdom, experience, or differences would tip the scales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T23:25:29.657" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T04:39:30.983" Title="Which spokes to get, Wheelsmith or DT Swiss Spokes?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8790" CreationDate="2012-04-02T05:18:34.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this helps, but Peter White is a well-regarded framebuilder and wheelbuilder who has strong opinions on the Wheelsmith vs DT Swiss issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/spokes.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/spokes.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/DTspokes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/DTspokes.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gist of his argument boils down to two (current) main differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) DT Spokes have a 6.3mm elbow length vs Wheelsmith 6.1mm (assumed) which can accommodate larger flanges, but are undesirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) DT Spokes have a sharper, 'triangular' transition into the head, which has led to more cases of the DT Spokes popping heads off than Wheelsmith, which have rounded transitions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, there WERE a large number of issues with DT Spokes relating to their specification change in 2001 from 6.1mm to 6.8mm, causing problems with slop in the hub and sharper elbow angles making the lacing more difficult. These have since been remedied and the elbows are now down to 6.3mm, but not back to the original spec and WS hasn't changed their specs around (perhaps this is circumstantial evidence, but it makes WS seem a more steady design than DT).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T21:16:59.130" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T21:16:59.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8716" CreationDate="2012-04-02T15:14:57.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To put simple rubber compound grips I usually use two step procedure. Use extreme degreaser on handlebar, the one that is used to degrease car brake rotors. Then pour some water into grips and then put them on while water is still inside grips.&#xA;To take them off it's even simplier. I use syringe with water. Stick the needle through grip up until the surface of a handlebar and then inject some water. The grip come off with no effort at all.&#xA;Using lock-on grips though makes process of putting grips on and off a lot easier ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3787" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T15:14:57.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8781" CreationDate="2012-04-02T16:59:20.137" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer, as others have said, is &quot;both.&quot; However, if you are &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; going to use one light, there is a disadvantage to that one light being helmet-mounted. When the light is mounted close to the eye, everything that is illuminated is &quot;flattened&quot; since, from the eye's perspective, there are no shadows to provide information about depth. In particular, it's harder to see potholes or other road imperfections. That's why randonneurs often mount a light on the front fork near the hub -- the distance between the light source and the eye helps highlight the road surface. A second issue arises in fog or rain: in that case, with a helmet light you'll get reflections directly back into your eye. That's why you don't use &quot;high&quot; beams when driving your car in foggy conditions, and why fog lights are mounted low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given these reasons, a helmet-mounted light can be an excellent supplement but shouldn't be used as one's only light unless you are riding only in urban areas where you can rely on additional street lights to keep the road surface well-illuminated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T16:59:20.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8790" CreationDate="2012-04-02T20:27:50.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I believe that Peter White has some good points, DT spokes are widely available in a variety of sizes at (semi)reasonable prices.  And for most people they're perfectly serviceable.  The difference would be in the lifetime of the wheel before spoke failure becomes a problem, forcing you to relace.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For typical road use you might be talking the difference between 20K for DT vs 30K miles for Wheelsmith, making it more of a theoretical than practical problem for the majority of cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, for certain off-road and other stressful uses the difference may be more significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T20:27:50.143" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2012-04-03T01:06:54.440" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not agree that running at the max pressure is a good idea. Most manufacturers express the recommended pressure as a range and there is a reason for that (as has been pointed out in various answers above). There is a &quot;sweet spot&quot; that tends to be affected by a variety of factors such as your weight, bike weight and road conditions. You'll probably need to experiment to find what feels comfortable without feeling &quot;squirmy&quot; or squishy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some arguments that running full pressure actually wastes more energy than the increased rolling resistance from running at slightly lower pressures. At full pressure, the tires tend to &quot;bounce&quot; off road imperfections rather than absorb/conform to them. And of course the increased road shock will add fatigue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick I'll add is to run your front tire about 5-10 psi lower than your rear. The rear tire has more weight over it and so it needs the higher pressure. The front tire has more bearing on perceived handling and comfort IMO, so running lower pressure there has more benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I use Gatorskins on my road bike (23c) and my commuter bikes (28c). I run the rear tire 10 psi below the max and the front tire 15-20 psi below the max. When I made that transition (from running at max) I noticed a lot more comfort and no loss of speed or efficiency; that includes fairly objective measurements with a power meter. I also have not had any increase in the rate I flat--which is incredibly low by the way, I highly recommend Gatorskins! I am 160 lbs FWIW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the above observations are discussed in a Bicycle Quarterly article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3790" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T01:06:54.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8798" CreationDate="2012-04-03T02:36:01.283" Score="1" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 700cc rear wheel with gear cassette. The centering or dish of the wheel appears to balance towards the gear cassette. This means when i use a tool like the below image, that the hub (and the hub lock nuts) is not in the centre. Should I be truing the rear wheel to be centered on the dish or is it off-set towards the gear cassette for a reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3eCa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T06:58:52.847" Title="Truing rear wheel with gears cassette" Tags="&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8797" CreationDate="2012-04-03T03:24:56.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You rim should be centered over your hub. If you are using the tool correctly, and the rim is not centered, it should be redished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not confident in your abilities and knowledge on the subject, get a second opinion from your LBS mechanic before you make changes to the wheel. Sometimes, those kind of changes are difficult to reverse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T03:43:41.870" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T03:43:41.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-03T03:43:57.990" Score="1" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;When riding hands free, I am noticing my bike is more oriented towards a particular direction &lt;em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(In my case: left)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. I tried to check of what my problems might be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I check the handles, if they were of equal lengths on both side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also check, if my saddle was not straight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find out what is causing them. Please tell me, What are things, steps and techniques needed to balance a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More Info&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The problem started after my last servicing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do use multiple bikes, and the orientation is not the same for both of them. So, my personal balance and weight does not affect this case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T05:20:33.270" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T21:29:37.883" Title="Bike Balancing, How is it done?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8799" CreationDate="2012-04-03T04:37:11.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect your own body's balance first. It's surprising if you stand on one of those Wii balance pads how unstable your balance really is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this could mean one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) When riding straight, the handlebars are oriented left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It takes constant right-leaning to ride straight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 1 I would check your handlebar alignment, loosen the stem (two bolts on top for a threadless design, one bolt on top under a cover for threaded) and look with one eye down from above, your stem should align perfectly with your wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 2, I would check your tires to see that they're worn down evenly, and loosen and retighten the skewers to make sure the axle is bottomed out in the stays and so the wheel is centered between the fork and frame tubes. Then I would check to make sure my brakes were not contacting the rims at all, front and rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect a given bicycle to lean slightly right due to the added driveline weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T04:37:11.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8844" CreationDate="2012-04-03T05:02:02.540" Score="10" ViewCount="28105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Straight spokes will have the same diameter through the whole length, double butted spoked are thinner in the middle than at the ends. Here's my current understanding of the benefits of each:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Double Butted Spokes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lighter than Straight Spokes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More elasticity in the wheel (less rigid / will flex some before breaking)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spokes will bow out less at the crossings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to bend/lace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When overtightened or stressed too hard, the spoke is more likely to snap than the rim eyelets or the hub's flange&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Straight Spokes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stronger than butted spokes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less elasticity in the wheel (more rigid / may break before flexing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More available at bike shops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are other reasons to use one over the other, or more pros/cons that may influence one's decision to use one over the other when hand building wheels? ('Straight spokes are easier to machine lace' may be true, for example, but doesn't help me decide which to order)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T21:06:27.570" Title="What are the pros and cons of Double Butted vs Straight Spokes when building a wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8808" CreationDate="2012-04-03T06:41:09.003" Score="8" ViewCount="15639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear that a steel frame is more comfortable to ride for a long tour but that it is heavier and easier to rust than aluminum.&#xA;Which material is better for a touring frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3791" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-09-19T16:41:44.840" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T16:41:44.840" Title="Which type of frame is better for a touring bike, steel or aluminium?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8802" CreationDate="2012-04-03T06:49:55.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aluminum&lt;/strong&gt; tends to be stiffer, won't rust (forms an Aluminum Oxide coating), is much lighter (about 1/3 the weight, but has to be thicker for the same strength, so it usually works out to be 1/2 the weight of steel). It's extremely rigid, so it won't bend... until it breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steel&lt;/strong&gt; is less rigid, heavier, and will rust. I would expect the 'suspension' effect of the frame to be rather minor, especially when compared with a true full-suspension bicycle, and the composition of hardtail frames to be not too relevant to your comfort. It may tend to be somewhat more durable, in certain cases - it will bend before it breaks. I find this undesirable for a frame, I'd rather it stay true until it cracks than wonder if it's bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stainless Steel&lt;/strong&gt; has the properties of steel with similar weight, but without the rusting issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carbon Fiber&lt;/strong&gt; is expensive, but very light and nearly as strong as steel and rigid as aluminum at about 2/3 the same strength piece of Aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I'm going aluminum on my next mountain bike frame. I ride a steel GT Bravado now, and I'll be looking forward to the weight decrease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T06:55:02.447" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T06:55:02.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8797" CreationDate="2012-04-03T06:58:52.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you take the quick release skewer out before you use that tool, don't use it EXACTLY like the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should center it on the dish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T06:58:52.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7780" CreationDate="2012-04-03T09:14:59.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the very same issue on my commute path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, the green man light tells pedestrians that they are allowed to cross the street where it applies, whereas the green bike light allows cyclists to cross that street together with another one parallel to the former. The traffic lights of these two streets are not synchronous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is safer for me to conform to the color of the bike and not to the color of the man.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T09:14:59.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4203" CreationDate="2012-04-03T09:28:47.857" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a more complete list, arranged roughly in increasing TYPICAL stopping power, with pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Rod&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQ2qz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQ2qz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rod Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Largely outdated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very low stopping power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Imprecise and heavy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For more information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikejuju.com/2010/how-do-rod-brakes-work-a-visual-primer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikejuju.com/2010/how-do-rod-brakes-work-a-visual-primer/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Coaster/Drum/Hub&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5JKoP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5JKoP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Coaster Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Include 'Back-Pedal' Brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally not very powerful&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very low heat produced for extended periods of braking, used in freight bicycles for example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Isolated from the external environment (rain, mud, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very low maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braking force transferred through spokes like disc brakes (Can't use radial spoking)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Side Pull Caliper&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2F7W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2F7W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side Pull Caliper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the weaker brakes out there for Mountain/BMX use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhat common on older cheap bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note the single pivot point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes used on road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Dual-Pivot Side-Pull Caliper&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pdS3W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pdS3W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dual-Pivot Side-Pull Caliper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Common on road bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easily centered so they don't drag against the rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note the second pivot point on the right arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerodynamic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly more powerful than the cheaper calliper brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Center-Pull Caliper&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhnRg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhnRg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Center-Pull Caliper&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhat common on road bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protrude less from frame/fork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pose a cable pull design challenge for suspension designs (both front and rear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Center-Pull Cantilever&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3yu2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3yu2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Center-Pull Cantilever&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better braking power than calliper brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Require Cantilever/V-Brake mounts on fork/frame (below rim)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inexpensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protrude from frame/fork very extensively, so not used much in BMX / Trials bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pose a cable pull design challenge for suspension designs (both front and rear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Center better than Caliper brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Delta Brakes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s4cik.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s4cik.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Delta Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Found on some older road bikes, now uncommon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerodynamic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While they look like center pull calipers, they have a few mechanical linkages internally that change mechanical advantage and other qualities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variable Mechanical Advantage (not desirable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Side Pull U-Brakes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ganCw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ganCw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side Pull U-Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Common on some BMX Bikes, older mountain bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Common for trick bikes that route the front brake cable through the steerer tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Require U-Brake mounts on fork/frame (above rim)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhere between caliper and V-Brakes for stopping power*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very little protrusion from the sides, so very little to catch your leg/pants on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Center/Dual Pull U-Brakes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1zYR2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1zYR2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Center/Dual Pull U-Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Common on some BMX Bikes, older mountain bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Require U-Brake mounts on fork/frame (above rim)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even less protrusion than side pulls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Again, between caliper and V-Brakes for stopping power*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note on U-Brake power: I have a type of center pull U-Brake that uses a wedge that forces the pads into the rim and stops with more force than any V-Brake I've ever used, and has crushed rims for me. The TYPICAL U-Brake design would be between TYPICAL caliper and TYPICAL V-Brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Roller Cam Brakes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAQgJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAQgJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Roller Cam Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shown here on U-Brake Mounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smooth feel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhat rare&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Direct-Pull Cantilever Brakes / &quot;V-Brakes&quot;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Wcyh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Wcyh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;V-Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most common brake for Mountain bike use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Require Cantilever/V-brake mounts on fork/frame (below rim)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally more powerful than non-disc brakes due to the mechanical advantage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Require different levers than the other rim brakes (the levers pull more cable and have less mechanical advantage than the others)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hydraulic Cantilever Brakes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfer7.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wfer7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hydraulic Cantilever Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relatively New&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased stopping power over non-hydraulic cantilevers, but lighter and more aerodynamic than disc brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cable Disc Brakes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6x7AY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6x7AY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cable Disc Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't heat the rim or use it as a braking surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will run fine on bent/cracked rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aren't as affected by mud/water as rim brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase load on hub/spokes/rim eyelets because the braking force is transferred through them. Shouldn't use Radial spoking with them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All this is true of other hub/coaster/drum brakes as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hydraulic Disc Brakes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYZNG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYZNG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hydraulic Disc Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same as cable disk, but...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stronger braking than cable disks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better feel / less input force&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hydraulic Rim Brakes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/02UtP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/02UtP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hydraulic Rim Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Common on rear brake of trials bikes and somewhat in Europe, also used extensively for unicycles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most stopping power of any brake type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provide the most 'lockout' - a stiffened disc brake will still allow flex from the hub and spokes, where this will not&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can easily crush most single walled rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T03:56:45.210" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T03:56:45.210" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-04-03T09:28:47.857" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8802" CreationDate="2012-04-03T11:37:44.420" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel is still very common for relatively expensive &quot;touring&quot; bikes (bikes intended for long distances carrying panniers).  The slight additional weight of a steel frame over aluminum (well less than 10 pounds in most cases) is inconsequential when you have 40-100 pounds of gear on the bike, the bike is more durable, and the flexibility of a steel bike is preferred by many on a long ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum is more rigid because the tubes must be made fatter and thicker to achieve the same yield strength as steel.  In some contexts this additional stiffness may be appreciated, but generally not when riding long distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stainless is hardly ever (never?) used for bikes because it's too hard to work with and the metallurgy doesn't allow the characteristics of the material to be  controlled nearly as well as steel or aluminum.  And its heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber is carbon fiber.  Great for lightweight frames (saves another 2-5 pounds, maybe), great for bragging rights, but fragile and often excessively rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important consideration on a cross-country ride is that a steel frame is very unlikely to suffer fatigue failure, while the other materials are considerably more likely to do this.  (And, in a pinch, a steel frame can be repaired by a welder at a local auto or tractor shop, while a broken aluminum or carbon frame is likely toast.)  (Of course, any good quality frame that isn't overloaded should hold up to a 3000 mile journey, but sometimes things happen.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tendency of a steel bike to rust is of little consequence.  A steel bike would need to be exposed to the weather constantly for 20 years before rust would cause a failure, and at that point all of the components would have already disintegrated.  And I don't know about carbon, but aluminum and stainless steel tend to suffer crystallization of the metal at the welds as they corrode, and this can lead to sudden joint failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T11:37:44.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8799" CreationDate="2012-04-03T12:01:18.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check also that your headset is correctly installed - my bike pulled to one side until I checked the bottom race and saw that it wasn't flush with the head tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T12:01:18.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8790" CreationDate="2012-04-03T12:03:48.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I favour DT - I had a pair of Mavic OpenPros with DT stainless spokes and DuraAce hubs for 15 years and never broke a single spoke on either the front or rear, and that's with some significant mileage too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T12:03:48.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8802" CreationDate="2012-04-03T15:12:23.623" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have toured a bit, both on steel and aluminum. I have also read a lot about the classic pros and cons perfectly explained by DanielRHicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, based on study and personal experience, I would tell the overal quality and specificity of the bike is much more important than the material itself, for these reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight difference is irrelevant since you are loaded; rusting is a minor nuisance, and its greatest problem is freezing a seatpost inside the frame, not catastrophic failure; and except for extreme circumstances, requiring a welding service is very very rare (read ahead);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elasticity is not that important on a loaded bike, because the luggage and the tires create a mass/spring system and absorb a lot of the road harshness. The actual flexing both in steel and aluminum is minimal compared to the flexing of tires, of saddle cushioning, and even from the rider's body. From my experience, aluminum bikes can be perfectly comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are dedicated bike manufacturers who produce high end aluminum touring bikes. Most famous example, I think, would be Koga-Miyata&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elaborating over the problem of material failure, I can surely state that travelling, or &quot;trekking&quot; by bike puts a lot of stress on the frame, but mostly the problems you'll have are related to the points where luggage-carrying structures are attached, like the rear rack brazeons over the rear axle. I broke both of the eyelets on my touring bike, it is a steel one, but the frame is intended for mountainbike. The eyelets were brazed on with a tiny cross-section (I think more intended to mudguards or a light loaded rack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a touring frame could not be too flexy, because the bike could become difficult to handle at low speed (flexing on the fork), and dangerously unstable at high speed (phenomenon known as &quot;shimmy&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be: either aluminum or steel, choose a frame that was intended for touring, with good design solutions developed with touring in mind, and whose manufactured is acknowledged for producing good touring bikes. Or at least bikes that are expected to be used as tourers or commuters (almost the same requirements). The Surly Long Haul Trucker is a good benchmark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T15:12:23.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8839" CreationDate="2012-04-03T16:03:12.577" Score="16" ViewCount="32007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often hear people say “your bike is a whole-body gym”. I know my upper body workout will never be close to the workout my legs get, but so long as I’m a bike commuter, I figure I ought to get as much as I can out of it. I have a Trek 8.3DS, flat handlebars, no bullhorns, no upright grips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I adjust my riding style/choice of bike/choice of equipment/types of rides to maximize whatever upper body exercise biking can give me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T05:23:50.387" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T23:46:48.860" Title="How do I maximize my upper body workout from riding?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4684" CreationDate="2012-04-03T17:02:49.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there have been 28 hole rear drum brake hub by STURMEY ARCHER. you can only get used, which means you have to rebuild it yourself. Plenty of them on ebay such as this one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;amp;item=220912258562&amp;amp;ssPageName=ADME:B:BOC:US:1123&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;amp;item=220912258562&amp;amp;ssPageName=ADME:B:BOC:US:1123&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3795" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T17:02:49.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8812" CreationDate="2012-04-03T17:11:05.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are two important ways to use your upper body riding a bicycle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride very steep hills, where you need to pull up the handlebar and swing your upper body to counteract the torque on the pedals (specially if you ride a bike without extra-low gears);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding over technical terrain, like XC mountain bike and other stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While commuting, you can do these (or at least a bit of these) if you choose some unusual route if you live in a hilly area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is not the case, I am afraid riding itself is not enough to provide significant upper-body exercise (except postural &quot;exercise&quot;, which might indeed induce health issues if too prolongued).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-04-05T04:01:01.590" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T04:01:01.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8816" CreationDate="2012-04-03T17:24:00.050" Score="2" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to install the lower race without issue, but I cannot seem to get the upper one installed.  I am installing a new threaded headset on a newly painted bike.  There is no new paint blocking the surface.  I do not have any professional tools for this installation, just a hammer and a block of wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any trick to getting it in there or do I need to have my LBS ream it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T18:16:12.463" Title="Trouble With Upper Tube Race Installation" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8815" CreationDate="2012-04-03T18:16:12.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you should use the &quot;recommended&quot; way to do that (even if that means using a home-made solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find two plates (wood, metal) which you can drill a hole through;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put each one of these (already drilled) plates on each end of the head tube, with the cups already positioned for insertion;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert a long bolt or threaded rod through it all;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert two nuts on each end, and press the system together, so that the cups are forced inside the frame in the proper position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a &lt;strike&gt;wise bench&lt;/strike&gt; bench vise, you can do the same, but I would recommend using the plates too (not the raw jaws of the vise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T18:16:12.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-03T18:19:15.683" Score="10" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to train on rollers, and I figure once I get rolling it will be pretty easy, but how do I get my wheels turning fast enough to keep me upright before I fall over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3796" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T19:18:03.500" Title="How do I get started riding on rollers?" Tags="&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8817" CreationDate="2012-04-03T19:08:55.207" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Until you get the hang of it, set up in a hallway, where you can brace yourself on the walls around you until you get up to speed and while you learn your balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, you just have to keep trying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-06T08:26:33.997" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T08:26:33.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4203" CreationDate="2012-04-03T22:08:40.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sSjz3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;Self-Energising Cantilever brakes were a Suntour innovation in the early 1990's. The brake arms moved on a spiral or coarsely threaded boss such that the braking force pushed the arm onto the thread in a way that increased the braking force. This was helpful for people with poor grip strength but that the disadvantage that if the rim was damaged the brake tended to lock up on the point of damage - the increased braking force when the brake pad hit the damage fed through the positive feedback system sometimes damaged the bike. Either by spreading the seatstays at the back, bending or breaking the brake mounts, or crushing the damaged rim. That uncontrolled positive feedback could be triggered in other ways, locking up the affected wheel until the bike was stopped and the wheel rotated backwards to clear the fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T22:08:40.953" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-04-03T22:08:40.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8740" CreationDate="2012-04-03T23:08:32.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually get 4000 miles from a Continental 4000S.  Years ago I got 5000 miles from a Performance brand tire.  However, having neglected to keep an eye on it, the casing completely disintegrated in the middle of a cold, December ride.  So keep looking for wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T23:08:32.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8817" CreationDate="2012-04-04T01:52:21.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Started with mine in a door frame (since my house has no hallways) with shoulders aligned with the door jamb. Of course I didn't want it there or have to keep moving it. So not perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lasting solution... I have a spot in my basement where I attached a metal handle securely on the ceiling. Works much better to get started and just leave the roller there. I'm lucky to have a permanent spot for the rollers; so this method may not work for everyone. Basically I just hang onto the handle to get on the bike and get spinning. Once spinning it's pretty much just normal cycling balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing is to be able to support yourself externally so that you can get clipped into the pedals, onto the saddle and build up a little speed so that you can maintain balance. I got my rollers several years ago and pretty sure that I took a tumble or two before I got the hang of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also much easier to learn if you're comfortable riding with no hands. (not that I do that on the rollers ;-))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-04-04T16:02:50.613" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T16:02:50.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8965" CreationDate="2012-04-04T02:19:34.947" Score="11" ViewCount="21207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building two new sets of mountain bike 26&amp;quot; wheels, and I'm wondering what to go with. Both are double walled rims, so in addition to the standard rim tape and strips, I can use a product like VeloPlugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my current understanding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;VeloPlugs&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radfahren.de/typo3temp/pics/2378aa8792.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VeloPlugs http://www.radfahren.de/typo3temp/pics/2378aa8792.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most expensive ($7 / wheel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reusable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightest (~5g)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double Walled Rims only&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have to measure spoke holes in double wall (8mm vs 8.5-9.3mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May lose them when changing tubes, so carry extras on rides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Rim Strips&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R6ohW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rim Strip&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mid-range price ($4 / wheel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reusable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Rim Tape&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fOGi1.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Rim Tape&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheapest (~$3 / wheel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Won't slide around like Rim Strips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight (~20g)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glue may prevent nipples from loosening in single walled rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Won't slide around on rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most common / available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are other points or guiding factors in selecting which to use?  I'm not concerned with price and availability, I'll wait/pay for the best option. I'm leaning toward VeloPlugs for dual walled rims and rim tape for single walled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if anyone has used VeloPlugs before, how do you find the diameter of the spoke holes when the rim manufacturers doesn't publish it? Just wait until the rims are in hand and measure with a caliper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T12:38:02.077" Title="What should I use, VeloPlugs, Rim Tape, or Rubber Rim Strips in new wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2012-04-04T03:09:12.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rim tape can actually slip, slowly, due to heat and/or mechanical stresses (rolling of the wheel, twisted tube), but would be my choice, since they're not elastic (accept high pressures well) and can't damage the tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rim strips are very fine, but their edges might become hard with aging, and I have had some flats due to cuts in the innertubes caused by these edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have never used plugs (actually didn't know they existed), so cannot tell about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T03:09:12.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2012-04-04T03:14:30.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are advantages to all of them, but tape has always been my preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used velo plugs, but in my wheels the incidence of loss was too high. They lasted me less than a year, before I lost all the extras, and went back to tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use rubber rim strips because the rubber degrades, and they move around too easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.com/en/zubehoer.html#high-pressure-rim-tape&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe high pressure rim tape&lt;/a&gt;, because it gives a good seal, stays put, and sticks better than cloth tape like Velox, but still removes clean and easy when the time comes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="22446" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T23:50:12.947" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T23:50:12.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2012-04-04T04:58:27.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or you can use cheap plastic adhesive tape, usually two to five layers. It's cheaper and lighter than any of the above, but it doesn't last especially long. It helps if you de-burr and round off the edges of the spoke holes. After a while you will start getting punctures where the tape has given way and the tube gets cut by the spoke holes. I was surprised to find that even two layers worked in MTB tyres at ~60psi. When every gram counts this is what I've done. It also works as a desperate measure when you fix a flat and the existing fix is damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rim tape also comes in plastic variants that are lighter, last longer and cost more than rubber ones. Often with tapered edges (you really only need it to cover the spoke holes), but they're still heaver than rim tape and costs more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In real life (rather than for one race) I use rim tape. It's cheap, easy to get, lasts ages and it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T04:58:27.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2012-04-04T06:49:34.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You left out reinforced plastic/rubber type strips. Kore Chastity Belt strips are my favorite and rated for 140psi. Very durable. FSA, Origin8, etc also make this type, available in many common sizes. Price ranges from $2.50 - $4 each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do like cloth tape, but the adhesive can dry out (even before purchase). Velox is $5 a piece at my shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber rim strips are junk in my opinion, definitely a last choice. They are commonly the cheapest and sell for $1 each at my shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not heard anything bad about Veloplugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T06:49:34.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-04T19:03:00.200" Score="2" ViewCount="8469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a road bike that's primarily for commuting around town and pulling a trailer with two kids. It's been a few years since I rode so I'm a bit of a noob. Please give me reasons why one is better over the other, I'd prefer having easier upkeep as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3803" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T15:56:20.373" Title="5 vs 10 vs 15 speed" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8830" CreationDate="2012-04-04T19:10:09.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What will be the largest (heaviest, faster) gear, and what will be your smallest (lightest, slower) gear, one for cruise speed and other for steep hills. It matters to know WHAT these gears will be, as they determine your maximum cruise speed and the maximum steepness you'll climb. Since you plan to ride with your kids in a trailer, you'll definitely NEED low gears;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many gears you will have in between. As an extreme example, it would not be useful to have ONLY the above mentioned gears, since most the time you will want something in between. The more gears you have, greater the probability to find a comfortable gear for a given speed and/or effort level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is to say it matters not only how much gears the bike have, but how low and how high can they get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a suggestion, I would try a double compact or a triple chainring in front, with a rear cluster having the greatest cog around 28 teeth (for the hills), or 24 teeth minimum if you live in a flat area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T19:10:09.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8833" CreationDate="2012-04-04T20:00:38.243" Score="3" ViewCount="7838" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is shoe polish a good or at least adequate solution for keeping a leather saddle in good condition? And/or better options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-04-04T20:15:18.693" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T05:27:42.437" Title="Keeping a leather saddle in good condition" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;leather&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8832" CreationDate="2012-04-04T20:14:48.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess shoe polish (the creamy one, not fancier new ones with sylicone and lots of synthetic polymers) at least won't do any harm, but maybe there are better choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers advise the use of specific products (Brooks Proofide, for example) both for treating the surface against wear and tear induced by friction and the elements, but also for treating the deep layers of the saddle thickness, improving its mechanical characteristics, specially when new and yet uncomfortable, but also after some use and possibly abuse (mainly due to weather).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leather tanning actually takes the subcutanous connective layer of cattle skin, which is rich in collagen, and treats it so that it can last longer. As such (at least it seems so to me) they have a &quot;natural&quot; affinity for natural substances, specially the lipo-soluble molecules found, for example, in Proofide itself: tallow, beeswax, cod oil, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to look at my Brooks as if it was a somewhat living friend: we have a friendship, I treat it nicely and it responds by treating me nice. Even caressing it and silently talking to it is fine (at least is makes ME feel fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with the Proofide I like to think I am giving something it likes: those fatty, variated, long-chain, apolar, gracefully degrading organic molecules, and not the inorganic, synthetic, industrialized, unlively plastified synthetic products one might choose as an alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(and by the way, the thinnest layer once in a while is more than enough: that tiny can of Proofide will last for many years!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T20:14:48.757" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8830" CreationDate="2012-04-04T20:19:25.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll give some insight from my personal experience...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking for something similar to you.  I bought a 27 speed road bike that I currently use for commuting.  I live in a flat location and I find that I only really use 2 gears, 1 for acceleration and small hills, and another for straightaways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in the back of your mind the route you will take to and from your start point and destination.  If you are really using this bike for commuting you will probably have a prominent route that you take.  If that is the case, it may be best to minimize the maintenance and possibilities of problems by going for a 5 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for easy upkeep, shy away from embedded gear boxes. Instead go for an external cassette, you'll be happier because you will be able to do the basic maintenance on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3804" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T20:19:25.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8812" CreationDate="2012-04-04T20:24:04.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something mentioned before but without explaination:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The position you sit while riding can affect upper body strength. When changing from a long ride on a cruiser to a long ride on a road bike, after the road bike trek I feel my arms working harder from holding more of my body weight up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The geometry of your frame, seat height and handlebar position can greatly affect how much work your upper body does while cycling.  If I had a mountain bike, I wouldn't however try to adjust a mountain bike to road bike dropdowns specifically for this though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3804" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T20:24:04.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8830" CreationDate="2012-04-04T22:17:35.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One minor point:  In the US you hardly ever find 5/10/15 speed bikes, except perhaps at WalMart.  Generally there will be from seven to 10 cogs on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re the &quot;right&quot; gearing, it depends on the terrain, but if it's at all hilly where you live and you'll be pulling a trailer, and you're not a gorilla, you need some low gearing to get the trailer up hills, so two or three front rings would be advised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maintenance is essentially identical for any derailleur-style bike.  There's a little less maintenance if you have only one front ring, but the difference is negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mainly you want to buy a decent quality bike from a reputable bike shop, then take it back once or twice in the first few months (at least the first visit should be free) to have it tuned up (since shift and brake cables stretch when the bike is new).  (You may be tempted to buy a fancy internal gear hub bike or some such.  Don't.  They're more expensive to buy and maintain, and generally less reliable.  Re disk brakes, there are some arguments in favor of them, but no compelling reason for you to go with disks unless you like to spend money.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, wipe the chain with a rag and squirt a little chain oil (from the bike shop) on it every few months.  (No need for this when it's new -- wait a few months.)  Every year or two haul it back to the shop for a tuneup (or learn to do it yourself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T22:17:35.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8832" CreationDate="2012-04-05T01:56:05.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend shoe polish with any dye in it at all, because it's only going to get on your gear, and even &quot;neutral&quot; shoe polish is probably less likely to be formulated for a high friction application like a saddle as opposed to a shoe where waterproofing and &quot;gloss&quot; are the more likely goals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the previous answer that a natural product is likely to have a better result than the synthetic ones, especially a combination of conditioning oil and wax, like the Proofide that Brooks recommends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T01:56:05.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8812" CreationDate="2012-04-05T02:09:23.580" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;pure&quot; answer to the question as asked is probably as others have said, climb as much as possible.  But perhaps a better answer is to admit that cycling is awesome for aerobic fitness and leg strength but not as great on the upper body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, cross-training is an option, but even if you are 100% committed to your bike, you can probably get significant results from two common calisthenics pre and/or post ride: Push-ups and Pull-ups.  The key is that you want to develop your chest/shoulders/triceps (pushing) and your back/biceps (pulling), and doing multi-joint exercises is likely more efficient/helpful than isolation exercises.  If you can't do pull-ups and don't have access to a lat pulldown machine you can help yourself by using your legs to give yourself a gentle assist.  If you have or can scrounge some dumbbells you can do a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a set of 20-25 pushups, then 8-12 pull-ups, either just before or just after you put on your shorts/jersey.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a second set 5 minutes later after you've made up your water bottles, etc., put on your shoes, whatever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump up your tires and get your bike &quot;ready,&quot; then do a third set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go for a ride, and try to get in as much climbing as possible.  You'll probably be amazed at how quickly your strength will improve just with three sets of good form concentrated upper body calisthenics pre-ride.  Again, if you have dumbbells or a weight bench you could do bench presses/military presses, or laterals, and you could do rows to help with the &quot;pull,&quot; but the goal isn't really do to a full on weightlifting session, just some quick calisthenics with one effective push and one effective pull exercise and at least two, preferably three sets as you prep for your ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastEditorUserId="3806" LastEditDate="2012-04-05T02:15:27.940" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T02:15:27.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8884" CreationDate="2012-04-05T06:10:19.253" Score="7" ViewCount="1772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been searching for a while, and I cannot find any information on my rear u-brake. It has served me well for many years (10+), and has a surprising amount of force. It's stronger than any cantilever and most V-brakes I've ever used or felt. Adjusted for maximum power, it has crushed a few single walled rims for me, so I usually adjust it off peak for the sake of my rims (though it would probably be fine with dual walled ones). This isn't to say it's phenomenal, it's difficult to get wide tires through it, and if it's not adjusted properly it will hit the knobbies on large tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched every millimeter of it for any markings or lettering, and it is devoid of any. If anyone has seen one like this, or can identify the brand or model, I'd like to know more about the company, the design, and the specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Unidentified U-Brake&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w2d0W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Modified U-Brake to Identify&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;With Brake Booster Removed&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/PtqDO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;U-Brake with Brake Booster Removed&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest I've seen yet is a roller cam u-brake, like the one below, only without the rollers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Roller Cam U-Brake&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HujFw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Roller Cam U-Brake&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They weren't original to the bicycle, but the frame is a 1997 GT Bravado, the brakes were purchased around 1997-1999. It came as a 1 1/8&amp;quot; threaded / 21 speed setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T18:55:54.080" Title="What brand / model of brake is this modified U-brake?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8740" CreationDate="2012-04-05T08:17:09.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute about 200 km a week. My last set of tyres - Specialized armadillos - lasted exactly one year. There is still at least 6 months rubber left but the tread rubber has started to delaminate from the canvas. So they have lasted me 10,000 kms which the bike shop reckons I should be happy with.&#xA;I have managed more than twice that time (and distance) on a set of Michelin World tours. &#xA;Cheaper tyres (1/3 of the cost) normally only last me 2 months before they are completely worn out. They are a false economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3808" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T08:17:09.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7749" CreationDate="2012-04-05T10:32:00.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;thought somebody might be interested in this, I own a cheap repco bike computer ($20) and after removing the display unit from my bike and placing it next to my ipod i discovered it saying i was riding again. Upon moving it away from my ipod i noticed it stopped. This happened for multiple electronic devices in my home including computers and mp3 players (even tv's). I am absolutely dumbfounded to why this is doing this. I know it's not on topic but it is very interesting is it not. if anybody knows why this is happening please enlighten me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3809" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T10:32:00.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1195" CreationDate="2012-04-05T11:49:11.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;BMX Handlebars&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iivRC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iivRC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFVkG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFVkG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Used mainly on BMX / 'Cruiser' BMX Bikes and other dirt track use, with 20&amp;quot; and 24&amp;quot; wheels, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frequently accommodate padding on the stem and top bar for when you go over them, and hit precious body parts on the way over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Very strong, designed to take lots of abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T22:43:31.093" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-04-05T11:49:11.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8801" CreationDate="2012-04-05T12:29:17.363" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In his book 'The bicycle wheel' Jobst Brandt, says that double butted spokes will be more resistant to fatigue failure when built into a wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because spokes break because of the cyclic stress they suffer as the wheel rotates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the spoke rotates thru the bottom of the wheel it experiences a reduction in tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butted spokes are more elastic so this reduction in tension is spread over more spokes, each experiencing a smaller reduction in tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels are an order of magnitude stiffer than the tyres they roll on, so any stiffness differences will not be noticeable. A wheel built with butted spokes will be able to carry a heavier load before any of the spokes become slack. At this point the rim is no longer restrained and the wheel will be more likely to collapse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1689" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T12:29:17.363" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7809" CreationDate="2012-04-05T12:30:18.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another reason for this is that two-pivot varieties have an opportunity to recenter themselves better than single pivot. This reduces friction from one side dragging on the rim, and also contributes to why good road bikes that use them will frequently use the dual pivot calliper brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T12:30:18.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7749" CreationDate="2012-04-05T16:15:44.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I'm completely certain now that it's the vehicle sensing loops causing the strange cyclometer behavior. It also seems to be directly interfering with the cyclometer itself, nothing to do with the sensor - I've seen it happen when the sensor wasn't on the bike. There are several intersections where I can reliably make this happen by stopping over the loops - and many more where it never happens - so it seems to have to do with the specifics of the loop, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastEditorUserId="634" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T15:05:44.510" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T15:05:44.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8832" CreationDate="2012-04-05T17:51:27.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shoe Polish is ok but it is going to smell and plus the seat will not soak it properly and leave traces on your pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a glove oil... You can find one in any sports shop ... just look for oil which is used to soften the Baseball gloves. I have used it on my Brooks leather saddle and have had no issues in last 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3813" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T17:51:27.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8802" CreationDate="2012-04-05T17:58:54.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends on a number factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you plan to ride in US or developed countries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the answer is yes then Aluminium is a good choice. The bikes are lighter and cheaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you plan to travel in countries like China or Chile then Steel is must because roads might not be in good condition so with a aluminium bike you are going to feel every small potholes. It is general myth that Steel bikes are easier to repair in under developed countries(I differ though) if your frame brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you plan to stick to Paved roads in US or developed countries or do you plan to take a little off orad touring .. say on a gravel or mud road?&#xA;-- On paved roads ... then Aluminium is just fine.&#xA;--- If you plan to do some off road touring (not the mountain bike trails) on gravel or mud roads then go for a steel bike. They can take a good beating and absorb all the shocks better.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3813" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T17:58:54.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4904" CreationDate="2012-04-05T19:25:34.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;my bike was stolen recently (in SF) with a basic ulock, so i decided to get a chain lock  &amp;amp; and abus ulock for the front tire/frame. (abus locks our light but with no compromise to protection) If one were looking to have maximum protection, i'd think both of these locks would do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FL3EB6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Beast-5017-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B000FL3EB6/ref=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005F3GZTM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Abus-Granit-Futura-64-Mini/dp/B005F3GZTM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;coliid=I1GZGPUG77CR3G&amp;amp;colid=3EAWZY1WOUJPO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T19:25:34.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8858" CreationDate="2012-04-05T20:33:33.243" Score="2" ViewCount="3559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am willing to buy a new bike and I'm stuck between Cube Analog Disc and Cube Aim Disc. What should I go for? What are the advantages of one over another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will use this bike on all kind of terrains (meaning city, off-road, mountain, road), but I won't go mountain-biking (in the real word) very often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3814" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T04:12:09.407" Title="Cube Analog Disc vs. Cube Aim Disc" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8855" CreationDate="2012-04-05T22:37:31.263" Score="18" ViewCount="22267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard the different places to put your hands on drop bars given different names, like &quot;hoods&quot; which I think is the flat part on top or maybe the brake levers, or &quot;drops&quot;, referring to the lowest part of the bars.  Can anyone tell me what the actual names of places to put your hands are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3815" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T12:13:08.667" Title="What are the positions on drop bars called?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8852" CreationDate="2012-04-05T22:45:39.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to simply copy+paste &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drop bars give you (normally) 4 hand positions: Middle of the bar...On the corners...On the hoods...On the drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that the middle is good when you need to breath more, the drops are good for aerodynamics, the hoods are for steep hills and I spend most time on the corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T22:45:39.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8856" CreationDate="2012-04-05T23:01:12.003" Score="5" ViewCount="3022" Body="&lt;p&gt;My feet overlap the pedal and clip the front mudguard when I'm turning at a low speed because I have to turn the handlebars wider than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nt166.png&quot; alt=&quot;mudguard is too close to pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My foot doesn't clip the wheel when the mudguard is not attached. Does anyone know if this is a common problem and what is done to solve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bend the excess metal rods around the outside of the mudguard to lessen the amount of excess rods that can be caught by my foot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somehow rotate the mudguard anti-clockwise (as viewed standing from the right of the bike) to lower the excess rods and rubber flap and create more clearance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mudguard is not suitable for my bike and I should get another set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T19:16:40.647" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T19:16:40.647" Title="How to stop foot clipping front mudguard" Tags="&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;&lt;toe-overlap&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8852" CreationDate="2012-04-05T23:20:30.487" Score="30" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&quot;Middle of the bar&quot;, &quot;On the tops&quot;, &quot;Middle&quot;, &quot;Top&quot;, &quot;Tops&quot;, &quot;Center&quot;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hands on the part of the bar closest to the stem. The middle has some width and you can slide your hands around there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qItD9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Middle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&quot;On the corners&quot;, &quot;Corners&quot;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hands at the outside end of the section where the bar turns. You can grip the corner different ways. There's a sort of position in between corner and hood (&quot;ramp&quot;?), too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYQ5S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Corner&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&quot;On the hoods&quot;, &quot;Hoods&quot;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hands on the brake hoods. The brake hood is that rubbery thing that the brake lever comes out of and on a modern road bike likely also contains the shifter. There's different ways to put your hands on the hoods, I'm showing two I use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xJVln.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hood 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONQRS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hood 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&quot;On the drops&quot;, &quot;In the drops&quot;, &quot;Drops&quot;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the lower curved part of the bar. With the drops you can be leaned way down with your hands far forward/up in the hoods, you can be about where I'm showing in the picture, or you can be on the lowest part of the bar (where you can't reach the brake lever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eA9cI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;In the Drops&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Note for all of these:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various different hand positions in each of those main positions, but not necessarily names for them. Some of the differences can be subtle and don't really look much different, but change the pressure points on your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most road-bike riders primarily use the hoods, and that's generally what's currently encouraged. It's the most comfortable position that you can brake and shift from and gives you good leverage. The drops are your fastest position and also give you good leverage. Middle is most comfortable for your hands, but gives you the least control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-04-06T14:55:18.713" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T14:55:18.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8854" CreationDate="2012-04-06T02:19:18.390" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very similar setup (SKS Chromoplastics), and can say the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I installed a suspension forks and then the former length of the metal wires bacame too long for the setup. I BENT them in a sharp turn to run parallel to the mudguard (of course it can be bent in any suitable direction, just NOT point straight back like yours). Haven't had any issue yet. I DIDN'T CUT them because there is always a possibility to use the mudguard in other bike with a larger wheel (I use 26in), or to put the rigid fork back. If that happens, I'd just unbend the wires again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotating the mudguard backwards is always good. The more backwards, the less water flying below you. If you have clamped the little &quot;L&quot; shaped metal plate in front of the fork, you can change it to the back part of the fork. There are only two relative caveats:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The front part of the mudguard might become too short, and some drops might start getting on your face at high speeds on rainy or wet days;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you go down some step or curb, you should take extra care not to hit the rear part of the fender against the obstacle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any mudguard like yours is suitable to the bike. Your main problem, as DanielRHicks correctly pointed, is that you should have got the wires short (either by cutting or by bending). Even then, it is acceptable to have a minimal toe overlap. Since you ride platform pedals, I would suggest you to watch yourself if you are pedalling with the foot too much forward (&quot;arch pedaling&quot;). Perhaps you might like to use straps or clipless pedals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About using a flap, I am ABSOLUTELY CONVINCED that it is very very welcome and extremely useful. Some designs are more flexible, and that work better, but yours is fine, specially if you manage to get the whole mudguard lower than this. I use to say that I'd rather ride without all the rest of the mudguard than without the flap, because it is the actual responsible for a clean and long-lasting chain, and not-so-wet feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T02:19:18.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8817" CreationDate="2012-04-06T03:21:54.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get the floating rollers and you will be steady in about a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Floating rollers look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hobON.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;floating roller&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rollers are attached to the inner frame which allows for rotation of the wheels and the inner frame is attached to an outer frame which allows forwards and backwards motion by the bicycle as a whole. This should help cyclists accelerate quicker than on traditional rollers, where there is a chance that you hop over the rollers and head forwards into the tv.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3817" LastEditorUserId="2066" LastEditDate="2012-04-06T08:25:20.100" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T08:25:20.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8851" CreationDate="2012-04-06T04:12:09.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The differences between the bikes are small, and mainly will relate to durability. The quality of several key components is higher on the Analog Disc, which should equal smoother, faster shifting and better longevity of these components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition the Analog Disc is a 9 speed bike, and the Aim Disc is an 8 speed bike. As the current high end models are 10 speed, and 8 speed mountain components are expected to go away in the next year or so, I would recommend the Analog Disc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They aren't showing pricing, but I wouldn't expect more than a 100-150 dollar or so difference between the 2 bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T04:12:09.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-06T10:38:20.043" Score="4" ViewCount="2804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a Trek 6300 and I'm getting a strange creaking coming from the crank/bottom bracket when I'm stand pedalling. It only happens when I'm stand pedalling, and only what appears to be on my right hand side.  It's like a triple click on each downward motion on the right pedal.  But again, only when stand pedaling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't buy the bike brand new from a shop, I bought it off of one a friend of a friend who used it for a charity ride in January and hasn't used it since, hence he sold it.  I just find it odd that the noise only happens on the right hand side.  Could it be that the chain is catching the front derailer?  I'm still relatively new to mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3755" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2018-11-07T02:36:46.013" LastActivityDate="2018-11-07T13:58:39.687" Title="Strange noise coming from bottom bracket/crank" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8859" CreationDate="2012-04-06T10:56:27.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you only just bought it from a shop, take it back and get them to sort it, but do ask what the problem was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to fix it yourself, it's worth determining the frequency and type of noise that you're hearing. I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; site when I had an issue similar to yours and I tried taking pedals off, the crank arm off and eventually took it to a bike shop and it was the bottom bracket that was making the noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T10:56:27.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8859" CreationDate="2012-04-06T11:42:00.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, if you just bought it, take it back!!!  Even if you have to pay someone, this sort of thing should be fixed immediately, if not sooner, and avoid riding until you do, as the problem could be a loose crank, and, if so, riding it will destroy the crank and axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibilities are a bad pedal, a loose BB cartridge, or misalignment of the derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T11:42:00.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8854" CreationDate="2012-04-06T17:37:04.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Planet Bike Cascadia fenders and my shoes did clip the metal rods/wire fender supports after I had the fenders installed. This happens when I am making a tight turn while continuing to pedal. Simple solution for me was to cut the protruding rod/wires. Initially I tried to use a hacksaw but had little luck as the coating was hard and the saw just bounced around. I then tried using a pair of big pliers and that did the trick. I found that the wire only had hardened coating but once you pierced that it cut easily... a big set of pliers can easily do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T17:37:04.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-06T20:02:33.277" Score="9" ViewCount="7876" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is whether there is anything &quot;special&quot; about the Bicycle-Specific Branded Chain degreasers or whether the much cheaper alternatives are just as good.  I've used the ParkTool CB-2 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/citrus-chainbrite-CB-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/citrus-chainbrite-CB-2&lt;/a&gt;) but it's really expensive.  I'm wondering whether Simple Green, Purple Stuff, or any of the various Citrus Degreasers that you can get at the hardware store by the gallon are suitable.  We ride a lot in our family and I'm presently maintaining 5 bikes, so although I try to use the same &quot;batch&quot; each time in the chain cleaning tool, then use that to wet my brushes for the cogs, etc., it still gets pretty pricey since each bottle only gets me through about 3 cleanings.  If it matters, our two road bikes are Ultegra (circa 2003) and the others are cross/mountain bikes that see mostly road use.  I'm not dealing with offroad sludge.  The guys at my FLBS told me they really like the &quot;real stuff,&quot; and that other cleaners might damage my drivetrain.  I know these guys pretty well and they don't usually push very hard, so I think they really believe it, but I don't know what would be &quot;special&quot; chemically about bike-specific products vs. the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new here and this is my first questions, so feedback is welcome.  I did try to search first, and found a similar question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/692/what-to-use-to-clean-your-chain-and-cogs&quot;&gt;What to use to clean your chain (and cogs)?&lt;/a&gt;) but that doesn't really address my specific issue, I don't think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T20:15:28.653" Title="Alternative Chain/DriveTrain DeGreasers" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8865" CreationDate="2012-04-06T20:28:22.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For degreasing I don't think it's that important to use a bicycle-specific product -- any reputable &quot;parts degreaser&quot; from a hardware store or auto parts place should suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend avoiding &quot;do all&quot; cleaner/degreasers that claim to wash your dishes and do your laundry as well.  Stick to a &quot;parts degreaser&quot; or something of that ilk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, thoroughly wipe dry the chain after cleaning, and relube with an appropriate chain lube.  Here using a bike-specific product is somewhat more critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T20:28:22.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8865" CreationDate="2012-04-06T21:23:20.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the difference between chain degreasers and general purpose degreasers is the strength.A general purpose degreaser has one job to remove as much grease as possible.What you really want in a chain degreaser is to remove only the heaviest gunk and grime but leaves the the factory grease between the plates.If I were to use any of the general cleaners you mentioned I'd start with it very diluted. You want it to just strong to clean outer plates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T21:23:20.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8817" CreationDate="2012-04-06T21:24:07.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Door frame is useful but in addition keep looking up, straight ahead rather than down at a TV or even worse your feet and keep your cadence high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2293" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T21:24:07.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8799" CreationDate="2012-04-06T21:29:37.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your wheels have been centred when fitted into the frame; when tightening wheel nuts or quick release you will find the wheel can be moved from side-to-side before the final tension is achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2293" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T21:29:37.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8999" CreationDate="2012-04-06T22:42:43.900" Score="2" ViewCount="14726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm rebuilding an AntiGravity Fork and converting it to threadless for my 'Blast From the Past' bike (GT Bravado frame, U-Brake, Bullseye hubs and cranks, 21 speed). I really like these forks and I'd like to bring them back to life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elastomers are shot. Some are falling apart, others are crushed and don't expand fully, etc. Given that the company is out of business and the chance of locating brand new AntiGravity elastomers is.... not good, I'm looking at what my options are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;AntiGravity Elastomer Fork:&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/1BK6S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Picture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option A:&lt;/strong&gt; Wings-Suspension makes killer kits to convert Manitou/RockShox elastomer forks to springs. I emailed them with pictures and details to see if his springs would be compatible, but that's VERY doubtful. This would be my Option A if it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wings Replacement Springs:&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://wings-suspension.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;http://wings-suspension.com/steelsprings.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Picture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option B:&lt;/strong&gt; Round Tubing from McMasters-Carr. I have been trying to just get something to replace them with, at this point. The main suspension uses 4x 1.25&quot; OD 1/4&quot; ID elastomers, and the rebound is controlled by 6x 3/4&quot; OD 3/16&quot; ID elastomers.  McMaster-Carr seems to have close to what I'm looking for, with multiple choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Main Elastomers:&lt;/em&gt; Neoprene Spring Rubber with 75A Durometer (hard) or Extreme Temperature Silicone Rubber in 60A (medium-hard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rebound Elastomers:&lt;/em&gt; Only in 1/4&quot; ID (slightly bigger than stock). They have Neoprene Spring Rubber in 75A (hard), Oil Resistant Buna-N Rubber in 75A (hard), and Extreme Temperature Silicone Rubber in 60A (medium-hard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option C:&lt;/strong&gt; ??? (short of buying a new fork)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An answer can either be a link to better replacement material, or which types of the options above are best for a 180-190 lb rider. It would also be really helpful if someone could find a data sheet for this fork showing what the different original durometers were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, has anyone ever done this before? should I cut them into 4x1.25&quot; and 6x1&quot; pieces, or leave them as one long tube since I'm not swapping them out individually (one of the 'perks' when these were sold)? Does anyone know how to estimate desired durometer / fork force for a given rider weight or desired stiffness? I'd rather be on the stiff side, but I have no idea what 75A or 60A mean in this context - they could be so squishy I bottom them out, or so hard I might as well get a rigid fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;AntiGravity Fork Internals:&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/ZFscJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Picture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;McMasters Carr Round Tubing&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rubber-hollow-tubing/=gzd2xy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T00:35:03.040" Title="What options do I have when replacing my fork's elastomers?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8859" CreationDate="2012-04-07T02:29:59.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had noise with my cranks when under pressure like yours in the best case it was just a loose crank in the worse case my bottom bracket must of had a crack as it later broke off when I was cranking through an insection and crashed hard. Tighten your cranks if the noise is still there take apart your cranks and inpect the spindle .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3822" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T02:29:59.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8875" CreationDate="2012-04-07T03:42:28.663" Score="3" ViewCount="5221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that one can install a bottom bracket that has what is essentially a built-in internal hub, giving one the ability to add a virtual double chainring where there's only one. This would be designed to be used in concert with whatever gear cluster or internal hub you have installed in the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is true, does it exist in this form, or have I heard of a distorted version of the device? What are the advantages and disadvantages of such a bottom bracket? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T04:24:47.327" Title="Bottom bracket with built-in internal hub - does this exist?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8872" CreationDate="2012-04-07T03:55:42.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia (&quot;Bicycle Gearing&quot;) and Google eventually led me to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.haberstock-mobility.com/en/products/schlumpf-drive.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.haberstock-mobility.com/en/products/schlumpf-drive.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pinion.eu/discover-pinion/pinion-p1-18/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pinion.eu/discover-pinion/pinion-p1-18/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I would be afraid to put my money on these... ;o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T03:55:42.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8872" CreationDate="2012-04-07T09:19:11.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically, no, there is no current commercially available gearbox bottom bracket. Most likely, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-hammerschmidt-am-crankset&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Truvativ Hammerschmidt&lt;/a&gt; is the crankset you are thinking of. There were also gearboxes designed by Honda, and a few other brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It allows a single chain ring, 2 x 9 or 2 x 10 gearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDDpm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Truvativ Hammerschmidt drive side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is mainly aimed at the DH or freeride market, as it is a heavy, but very tough piece of kit. The gearing is not suited for XC or endurance rides, for that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the Anatomy View below, the gear change is accomplished not in the Bottom bracket, but in the chain guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FJB4T.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hammerschmidt anatomy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technical manual can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/hammerschmidt-tech-manual-english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-07T10:39:02.043" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T10:39:02.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8859" CreationDate="2012-04-07T15:56:59.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an almost identical situation, but I think I've narrowed it down to the pedal, actually. It seems that the pedal is worn out and creaks under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3824" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T15:56:59.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2012-04-07T22:58:31.547" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I slow down and address the rider in a conversational, even sing-song, tone &quot;Good morning, rider.  There are two bikes behind you.  Is it Ok for us to pass?&quot; (They almost always say &quot;yes&quot; and thank me/us for alerting them, but it also gives them the option to ask me to dismount or hold back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that despite your having addressed the rider, the conversation is really &lt;em&gt;for the horse's benefit&lt;/em&gt; -- the horse now knows there's something approaching, that the something is a human (watch its ears as you converse), and hears that its rider responds calmly and casually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3825" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T22:58:31.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8830" CreationDate="2012-04-07T23:09:57.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More gears != more gearing range.  Are you in a hilly town or a flat one?  Traffic-jamming or cruising longer distances between stops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close gears (i.e., many gears) are great for touring in flatter country because you'll be more likely to have just the right gear for the grade, the wind, the load, and your condition, and be able to stay in it long enough to matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In hillier country or when traffic-jamming, you won't stay in one gear long enough to care how close to just-right it is or isn't; having enough gears to cover the conditions you'll encounter will be more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3825" LastActivityDate="2012-04-07T23:09:57.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8870" CreationDate="2012-04-07T23:34:30.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an elastomer suspension a lot of time ago, and did my own maintenance on the elastomer compartment. I would not take a fork like this and put springs inside. Bike suspension elastomers dampen the motion of the suspension in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They expand laterally and generate friction against the inner walls of the suspension;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have a natural visco-elastic mechanical behaviour, that doesn't let the suspension &quot;spring back&quot; too fast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With springs only (and no dedicated way to control the rebound), the suspension would become too &quot;wild&quot;, I'd say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you should take any elastomer kit that fits inside your suspension, with enough lateral clearance, and use it, no fear. Micro-cellular urethane (MCU) was the topmost material used in bike suspension elastomer (before becoming almost obsolete).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important, too, that you put them inside the fork with lots of grease, and specifically LITHIUM-FREE GREASE, so that they don't chemically react with one other. Most probably, there are specific suspension greases in bike shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-04-08T03:20:52.423" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T03:20:52.423" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-08T00:22:44.297" Score="2" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 5 spokes missing. Is it OK to ride on it, and how long will it last, or will my wheel just break on me? I will be going to work on it every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3826" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T18:48:14.520" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T18:48:14.520" Title="Wheel spokes missing" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8881" CreationDate="2012-04-08T00:39:28.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheel is going to break or get so out of true it will be unrideable.How long it will take depends on how many are left how hard you ride and the condition of the other spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T00:39:28.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8881" CreationDate="2012-04-08T02:30:49.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, by the time you have five spokes broken it may be that only one more and it'll collapse (depending on exactly how the broken spokes are arranged).  Plus with that many gone the others are under much more serious stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the general case you may have a spoke go now and then and, if you replace it reasonably promptly, it doesn't imply any serious problem.  But when spokes are going right and left it usually means that the spokes are nearing end of life and they all need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a good quality bike with stainless spokes, well cared for (and not abused by jumping, etc), the spokes should last at least 10,000 miles and possibly 30,000.  On a lower quality bike, however, with galvanized spokes, corrosion will often do in the spokes before they reach 5,000 miles.  And exposure to weather could cut that number in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the quality of the bike it may be cheaper to buy a new/used wheel than to have the existing wheel &quot;relaced&quot;.  But you need to do one or the other -- that wheel could collapse on you tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T02:30:49.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8840" CreationDate="2012-04-08T06:11:36.750" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think those are McMahon Racing Components, possibly their &quot;Power-Link&quot; model. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mombat.org/MOMBAT/BikeHistoryPages/McMahon.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://mombat.org/MOMBAT/BikeHistoryPages/McMahon.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackbirdsf.org/brake_obscura/mtb.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.blackbirdsf.org/brake_obscura/mtb.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T06:11:36.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8887" CreationDate="2012-04-08T06:53:20.837" Score="3" ViewCount="1703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at these components and am wondering what does double and triple gear shifting mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shimano R221 Double Gear Shifters 8 Speed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38724&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38724&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shimano R221 Triple Gear Shifters 8 Speed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38725&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38725&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T07:22:40.377" Title="What does double and triple gear shifters mean?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8888" CreationDate="2012-04-08T07:13:15.820" Score="0" ViewCount="12808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-au/bikes/model/trance.x3/9718/50948/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giant Trace X3 2012&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has 26&quot; rims. Which of these spokes type do I need for my bike? Strongest or best match for the spokes I already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;DT Swiss Champion Stainless PG Spokes&#xA;DT Swiss Champion Stainless DB Spokes&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorUserId="1547" LastEditDate="2012-04-08T07:33:56.807" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T23:59:37.903" Title="Which spoke type do I need for my bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8885" CreationDate="2012-04-08T07:22:40.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double and triple refer to the number of chainrings (front gears) that you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the detailed service instructions, which allude to this fact:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/NonSeries/ST-R221-R225/SI_6LU0A_En_v1_m56577569830606213.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/NonSeries/ST-R221-R225/SI_6LU0A_En_v1_m56577569830606213.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2619" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T07:22:40.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8886" CreationDate="2012-04-08T12:13:14.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference is whether the spoke is butted or straight gauge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lPKxz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Butted v. SG spokes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A butted spoke is thinner in the middle, which allows more flexibility without damaging the wheel, which usually makes it the stronger, as well as the lighter choice. The choice is purely personal, though, and either will function as long as the lengths are correct. Note that not every spoke in a wheel set is the same length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T12:13:14.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8886" CreationDate="2012-04-08T12:43:48.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that there are several parameters to spokes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Length (obviously).  The spokes need to be within about 2mm of the originals (and not so long that they stick through the rim) in order to fit reasonably well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter of the head.  The holes in hubs are not all the same size.  Your heavier mountain bike hubs will have larger holes and need spokes with larger heads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter of the nipples.  These generally change in sync with the head diameter.  The rim will be drilled for a certain diameter nipple, and the new nipples need to match that.  (Don't try to get by with smaller heads or nipples except in an extreme emergency -- you risk fatal damage to the rim and hub.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter of the body.  This is usually unimportant for fit, but affects the weight of the wheel and it's dynamics.  For a given diameter of the head all &quot;straight gauge&quot; spokes will generally be close to a certain diameter, but there are sometimes small variations from one brand/style to the next.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight gauge or &quot;double-butted&quot;.  As Zen's post illustrates, a spoke may be &quot;necked down&quot; in the center portion, leaving only an inch or two at each end that is the &quot;normal&quot; diameter.  This reduces the weight of the spoke, cuts its wind resistance, and adds to it's &quot;stretchiness&quot;.  (And there are semi-valid claims made that &quot;stretchy&quot; spokes last longer and give a better ride.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Composition.  Spokes may be galvanized steel, stainless steel, or some exotic material.  Your standard good-quality spokes are stainless, and that's what should generally be used.  But on &quot;department store&quot; bikes you'll sometimes see galvanized.  If you have something exotic you know it because you likely spent $10K or more on the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For replacement spokes the two critical dimensions are the length and the head/nipple diameter.  Ideally one should also match double-butted or not, but it's not critical.  Re length, the spoke should catch at least 6 threads (6 full turns) of the nipple, and it absolutely must not poke through to where the spoke end can contact the tube (even with a rim strip in place).  You generally have the ideal length when you can see 2-3 threads above the top of the nipple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, as Zen also mentions, the spokes on the back wheel will almost certainly be two different lengths (left side vs right), and the spokes on the front are likely yet again a third length.  &quot;Fancy&quot; wheels can have even more lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are charts and &quot;calculators&quot; available online that give spoke length for various standard wheel configurations (wheel diameter, hub diameter, &quot;cross&quot; count of the spokes, etc).  They're pretty good but may be off by a mm or two for certain hub/rim combos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-04-08T12:57:42.653" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T12:57:42.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-08T18:54:58.987" Score="3" ViewCount="3485" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Top Peak Joe Blow floor pump has been getting harder and harder to pump. I bought the high end model so that my 94 lb wife could pump up her own tires, but it has gotten to the point where I can barely get my own tires to 110 psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some maintenance that I'm supposed to be doing on the pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/!wea1iMPJxTVN0QwS4!Doiw!/Topeak-Rebuild-Kit-For-Joe-Blow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rebuild kit online&lt;/a&gt;, is that the ticket to making it work better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1928" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T19:30:59.173" Title="Joe Blow Pump Maintenance" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8901" CreationDate="2012-04-08T19:03:05.333" Score="10" ViewCount="50294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to mountain biking and I was able to put in around 900 miles on my first set of brake pads on my Giant Anthem X2. At that point they started grinding metal on metal. I went and bought new Shimano pads (I have Shimano brakes) and after only 100 or so miles one of the front ones has already worn out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time I rode the bike was in rain and mud so I'm not sure if that contributed to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long do the brake pads typically last? Is there something else going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1928" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T10:55:32.327" Title="How long should MTB disc brake pads last?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2012-04-08T19:12:11.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this happen to me a few weeks ago. I was on a downhill going very fast and caught up to two horses faster than I expected. I just slowed down when I was about 100 feet away and the horses heard me coming. They reacted just a little and so they riders looked back and saw me waiting. They both stopped and waved me to pass them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They both laughed when I went on the very far side of the trail since I didn't want to get kicked. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm actually looking into getting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnL4fjMzsSU&amp;amp;feature=player_embedded&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike bell&lt;/a&gt; for my MTB for riders and horses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1928" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T19:12:11.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8817" CreationDate="2012-04-08T19:18:03.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As some of the other comments have mentioned I got started by putting the rollers in a doorway and using that to get up on the rollers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I got the basic feel of it I moved the rollers to a spot where there was a full length mirror in front of me and put chairs on the side. The full length mirror was really helpful because I could look forward and see where my tires were on the rollers. I could see when I was drifting over to the side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another helpful tip is to put lots of pillows around for when you fall. It isn't a question of if, it is a question of when. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1928" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T19:18:03.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8890" CreationDate="2012-04-08T19:30:59.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What precisely is wrong with it?  If it's got high friction when you work the pump without it connected then working the right kind of lube into the cylinder would do the trick.  (Not sure what the &quot;right kind&quot; would be, but definitely NOT regular oil.  Probably either a glycerine product or a silicone product.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's leaking air back through the cylinder then lube might help, or you may need a new &quot;leather&quot; (which is no doubt plastic/rubber).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's leaking through the &quot;chuck&quot; that fits on the stem then some lube there may help, or a new gasket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T19:30:59.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8902" CreationDate="2012-04-08T20:03:38.647" Score="3" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: I'm overhauling/refurbishing my second road bike that I use mainly for training. It needs new wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a couple of nice used 2011 wheelsets that were spares for a women's bike team and saw very little use. The rear wheels are 28 spokes; I have a choice for the front wheels. Either 20 spoke or 24 spoke. What should I think about to make the choice? (clinchers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I weigh 160lbs if that matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-04-08T22:23:39.907" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T03:08:29.853" Title="Wheel set consideration" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8895" CreationDate="2012-04-08T21:19:40.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spoke&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Traditionally, most bicycles have had 36 spokes in each wheel. British&#xA;  bicycles, for years, used to use 40 spokes in the rear, and 32 in the&#xA;  front. This was a better system for the consumer, because the strength&#xA;  of the wheels was in better proportion to the stresses on them. It&#xA;  makes things easier for the manufacturers, however, to use the same&#xA;  number of spokes front and rear. This results in a front wheel that is&#xA;  needlessly heavy, and/or a rear wheel that is not as strong as it&#xA;  should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the last decade of the 20th century, 32-spoke wheels became&#xA;  increasingly common. Manufacturers tout this as an advantage, because&#xA;  it saves a very small amount of weight (they don't mention that it is&#xA;  also cheaper!) For most cyclists, the reduced strength and&#xA;  reparability of 32 spoke rear wheels is a greater detriment than the&#xA;  very tiny improvement in performance they offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_aa-l.html#32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;And&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In recent years, the same scam has been extended, as the industry tries to see how few spokes they can get away with before the&#xA;  reliability gets so bad that consumers revolt!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These days it is common to see mass-produced bikes and aftermarket wheelsets with 24 or fewer spokes in each wheel. These are represented&#xA;  as &quot;premium&quot; wheels, though they generally have off-brand hubs that&#xA;  are a lot cheaper than genuine Shimano or Campagnolo hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Naive consumers often fall for this scam, thinking the wheels must offer higher performance due to having fewer spokes. They don't&#xA;  realize that these wheels make up for the lost strength of the missing&#xA;  spokes by using substantially heavier rims! These trendy wheels look&#xA;  lighter than traditional wheels, but they aren't. Some of these wheels&#xA;  are unreliable -- and dangerous because if one spoke breaks, there are&#xA;  too few others to keep the rim stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many of these wheels also have nonstandard spokes that can be hard to find when a replacement is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T21:19:40.660" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8895" CreationDate="2012-04-08T21:24:40.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike is used mostly for training, you'll probably want to give high priority to reliability. In general, more spokes is better than fewer both because they're stronger and also because they're easier to true; 2-cross (or 3-cross) spoke patterns will be stronger than radial or &quot;mixed&quot; spoke patterns (for example, radial on one side and 1x on the other); rims with eyelets will be stronger than rims without; clincher rims will give you more choice about heavy-duty or puncture-resistant tires and tubes than tubular rims; aluminium rims will be more cost-effective than carbon; standard round spokes will be easier to find replacements for (should you need them) than bladed spokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T21:24:40.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-08T22:21:25.013" Score="3" ViewCount="1651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently acquired a 2007 Specialized Allez. As I was dismantling the bike for service, I discovered that the bottom bracket bearings are in rough shape. They aren't smooth at all. I took apart the bottom bracket cartridge and I've pulled out the sealed bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it typical to replace bottom bracket bearings? Or do people usually just replace the entire bottom bracket cartridge all together? Looking on sites like Performance Bike, they don't seem to carry bearings at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I decided to replace just the bearings, do I simply need to find a good quality set of bearings that are the same size as mine (in this case 15mm x 32mm x 9mm)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T02:37:30.893" Title="Swap Bottom Bracket bearings or replace entire bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8898" CreationDate="2012-04-09T02:37:30.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without specially fitted tools, it is very difficult to install new bearings in a cartridge bottom bracket. Usually, the act of pressing the on to the BB spindle puts enough side load on the bearing to damage the new bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to give it a try, yes, you can just go to your local bearing house and match the bearings by the numbers printed on the rubber seals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal procedure is to replace the cartridge, but the bearings are cheap, so it's worth a try, even if it's just to learn that it doesn't work out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T02:37:30.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8891" CreationDate="2012-04-09T02:43:41.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different types of pads, even to fit the same model of brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sintered metal pads last longest, but are noisiest, often to the point of not being worth the better durability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resin pads are softer, and will last less mileage, particularly in wetter weather, but still should last far longer than 100 miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that the rotors are damaged from being ridden metal on metal before, and need to be replaced, along with new brake pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your mileage will vary based on weather, braking habits, pad type, riding style and terrain. But you should normally get 500-700miles from a resin pad, and 1000-1250 miles from a sintered metal pad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T02:43:41.570" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8895" CreationDate="2012-04-09T02:57:31.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 160 pound rider will have no issues with pretty much any quality wheel set on the market now, but if your primary use is as a training wheel set, get the 24 spoke count set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It hurts nothing, and may affect the time between maintenance cycles slightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will use the wheels for events, it may be worth the slightly reduced weight and generally minisculely higher performance of the lower spoke count wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were a heavier rider, I'd say avoid the lower spoke count wheel, but you'll have no problems regardless, assuming the wheels are in good shape when you get them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-09T03:08:29.853" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T03:08:29.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-09T08:22:39.907" Score="4" ViewCount="3305" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and do a lot of urban riding - mostly on bike lanes - and usually we don't wear a helmet for these rides. But I'd like us to start, and I'd like to get her a nice helmet, one that doesn't look like a standard bicycle helmet. I found a couple of companies that make the sort of thing I'm considering - for example - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yakkay.com/SmartOne.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yakkay&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nutcasehelmets.com/collections/street/gen2/love&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nutcase&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lazersport.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&amp;amp;flypage=flypage_images.tpl&amp;amp;product_id=241&amp;amp;category_id=46&amp;amp;option=com_virtuemart&amp;amp;Itemid=139&amp;amp;lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lazer&lt;/a&gt;. Other than being more expensive, do these helmets have serious drawbacks? We live in a pretty hot, humid climate, so ventilation is definitely a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some clarifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to point out that even though I described it as &quot;hot and humid&quot; here, lots of people - probably a sizable minority - &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; ride with helmets. I ride with one on the longer rides, but I have a habit of skipping it for the short urban ones. The two of us agree, in principle, about wearing a helmet, but I think she'll be much happier starting with something pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is Tel Aviv, by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3644" LastEditorUserId="3644" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T13:26:20.057" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T14:27:11.987" Title="Unconventional, pretty bicycle helmets" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8904" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-09T11:29:33.990" Score="-3" ViewCount="8607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in a sports store the other day I've felt in love with this bike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.btwincycle.com/EN/rockrider-5-1-c1-2011-170478654/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.btwincycle.com/EN/rockrider-5-1-c1-2011-170478654/&lt;/a&gt; What do you guys think? I'm gonna ride it mostly in the city, and I don't really like city bikes. And, I'm looking for a bike under 250 $. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I buy it or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3828" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T16:45:34.130" Title="What do you think about the B-Twin bicycles? Is it better to buy a new B-Twin or an used bike by a more famous brand?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-04-18T11:19:14.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8908" CreationDate="2012-04-09T15:50:22.167" Score="3" ViewCount="1132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to start tracking my speed and cadence for my iOS app, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abvio.com/2011/10/12/ant-advice/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cycle Meter.&lt;/a&gt;  The app works great for distance, time, but is not accurate at all for measuring my speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm thinking of buying a Garmin or a Wahoo speed/cadance sensor and wanted to get the community's opinion on the two.  I'm not worried about price.  More about quality, functionality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two in question are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wahoofitness.com/Products/Wahoo-Fitness-Premium-Speed-and-Cadence-Bike-Sensor.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wahoofitness.com/Products/Wahoo-Fitness-Premium-Speed-and-Cadence-Bike-Sensor.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=1266&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=1266&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;  been using the Wahoo one for a few weeks now and have to say that I'm very happy with it.  I've been in a lot of rain as well with no issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-07-30T09:33:16.183" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T09:33:16.183" Title="Speed and Cadence Bike Sensor Opinions" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;&lt;sensor&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2012-04-09T16:38:26.140" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many horses in the area where I live. I often encounter horses on the trails, and I've had occasion to talk to the riders about proper procedure. Accumulated advice (so far):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talk to the horse as you're passing. &quot;Hi horsey! Aren't you a pretty horsey?&quot; -- that type of goofy talk. It's (allegedly) calming and lets the horse know that you're human.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're passing from behind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ring a bell or call out to the rider as early as possible to let them know.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the rider knows you're there, be patient -- give them time to get the horse into a position on the trail where it's safe for you to pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the trail is narrow, dismount and walk your bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're passing head-on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn off or cover any flashing headlights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the trail is narrow, dismount and wait for the horse(s) to pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T16:38:26.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-09T16:50:07.843" Score="3" ViewCount="2336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a second-hand mountain bike and the rear wheel is made of alloy and has small rust flecks/spots on it. Any advice on how to clean? I cleaned the rust off the forks with a small wire brush (used for cleaning spark plugs on my car) and an anti-oxidant. Would this work on the wheels? I am worried about scratching the alloy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3830" LastEditorUserId="3858" LastEditDate="2012-04-14T20:06:21.293" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T13:00:11.597" Title="how do i clean rust flecks off an alloy wheel" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8905" CreationDate="2012-04-09T16:57:48.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the Garmin one (came with my Edge 500) and after about 6 months it died on me. After some reading it seems that the Garmin version is only water resistant. Living just outside of Vancouver BC I get a bunch of rain and ride in lots of wet. I even took it apart and the little screw that attaches the arm has no sealing so water just gets in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.garmin.com/showthread.php?p=89392&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://forums.garmin.com/showthread.php?p=89392&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have the Wahoo sensor and have about 600km on it. It works fine and was easy to set up. I can't really give you long term use feedback but at this point I'd get another one instead of the Garmin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T16:57:48.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8915" CreationDate="2012-04-09T17:36:25.497" Score="8" ViewCount="29314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use an 8-speed shifter with a 7-speed cassette.  I saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8021/can-i-use-a-9-speed-shifter-with-with-a-8-speed-cassette&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but I am unsure if this would work, since I believe the spacing is the same between a 7- and 8-speed, but the length is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2019-09-28T21:02:16.963" Title="Can you use a 8 speed Shimano shifter with a 7 speed cassette?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2012-04-09T18:46:52.997" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say yes but your chancing running it through you liner and into your tube. If it's just one broken spoke and you don't have far to go, you can bend/wrap it around the spoke next to it. Just don't bounce around a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3832" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T03:00:50.557" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T03:00:50.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8891" CreationDate="2012-04-09T19:51:23.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikemagic.com/events/event-features/mike-hall%E2%80%99s-top-tips-for-surviving-the-strathpuffer-24-hour-race.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strathpuffer&lt;/a&gt; race ( a 24 hour MTB race in Scotland in January) is famous for grinding down brake pads in one night. The year I did it, I replaced the brake pads twice during the 24 hour period. Its something to do with the mud at Strathpeffer turning into a grinding paste that just eats the brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saying that though, in everyday use, a set of brake pads last me a season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3834" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T00:29:52.453" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T00:29:52.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8909" CreationDate="2012-04-09T20:43:39.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will work but as JackM. states make sure you limits are adjusted precisely.You also have to decide if you want to risk over shifting on the low gear or high side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2012-04-10T00:38:41.240" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T00:38:41.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2012-04-09T20:46:27.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a can of the FinishLine polish product and think it works really well. Smells pretty good too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3793" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T20:46:27.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8909" CreationDate="2012-04-09T22:31:06.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do that, the spacing is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already pointed, you're going to have a &quot;phantom gear&quot; on your shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you let gear number 2 on the shifter correspond to gear number 1 in the cassette, you should take care not to press too hard on the lever when you are already in gear 2, since this should overstretch the cable or the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you let the normal order until gear 7, and have an 8th gear on the lever as an &quot;empty&quot; or &quot;ghost&quot; gear, there is no danger to overstretch anything, but the shifter cable might become too loose, to the point of the housings coming out of their stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the gear spacing is the same, and there would be any necessary damage in any part, except one of the positions of the shifter not being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this could be a good alternative to upgrade the shifter, and only some time later to upgrade the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, have in mind that these systems are not in production anymore (as far as I know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T22:31:06.440" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8919" CreationDate="2012-04-09T23:41:28.447" Score="6" ViewCount="755" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone has just given me a free mountain bike (No obvious branding on it, but its got a 21-speed Shimano gear system and a shock absorber between the front and back of the bike in the middle of the chassis). It's been sitting in a shed, un-touched for about 2-3 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's clearly in need of a service (lubricating, replacing the brake cables as their ends are frayed). But is there anything in particular that I should look for which would indicate that it's not worth repairing and that I should give it to someone else for parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3836" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T12:05:03.433" Title="Are there any things to avoid when being given a free bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8916" CreationDate="2012-04-10T00:56:53.060" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what you want to use it for and how much you like working on bikes yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No obvious branding may or may not be a problem - you might have a POS made with cheap, heavy steel and knock-off components, or a perfectly good name-brand bike with good components.  If you're not sure of the difference, you should ask a bike shop or someone who knows bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, a good quality bike is pretty robust: my two bikes are 20 and 25 years old and are going strong and have never needed more than minimal maintenance.  I've got a couple other bikes that are the same age that I'll get around to fixing up some day and I don't expect any problems with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH, a cheap POS bike is often a pain to maintain - there are usually lots of rusty &quot;stainless&quot; fasteners, everything's sloppier, etc.  If the bike's in decent shape, it could still be ok, but long-term use is more of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, the things to look at are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First - frame damage: are there dents, rust or buckled tubes?  If the bike has had a head-on collision, you may see a frame buckle near the head tube.  Is the derailleur straight or is it or the hanger bent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, is the bike is in good riding condition?  Is the drivetrain is smooth, do the gears shift crisply, is the braking smooth and effective?  Look at the cogs and chainrings for worn (pointed) teeth, look at the braking surface on the rims: do they look worn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike is mostly ok, lube it up and change the cables (or get a shop to do it), but if it is just a cheap &quot;department store&quot; bike, I wouldn't plan on doing much more than that.  If it's a decent bike with good components and it's working well now, I'd expect it to give you many years of good service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T00:56:53.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8916" CreationDate="2012-04-10T00:59:06.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the most expensive parts first.Inspect the frame for cracks at all the weld points.Check the shock,sit on the bike and bounce on the seat.Does the shock compress and then rebound smoothly?Does the swing arm pivot smoothly with out binding?Squeeze the front brake and compress the fork.Again does it compress smoothly and rebound evenly?Unless it is a highend bike any of these repairs could cost more than the bike is worth.If you feel you can do it safely take it for a short slowspeed ride.Note any issues with shifting,stopping,wheels being true and spinning freely.A handful of inexpensive issues can cost as much as a single large repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T00:59:06.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8916" CreationDate="2012-04-10T01:17:21.317" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably worth riding, if you don't have another bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, of course, simply wipe off the dust (or hose it down and wipe dry).  Then examine for bad rust.  If it's an inexpensive bike that was stored where it wasn't completely dry there's apt to be some rust spots here and there, which is OK.  But gobs of rust around the bearings is a bad sign.  If the chain is badly rusted that's not fatal, but not a great sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air up the tires.  (Once you decide you'll be a bike rider you'll want to get a bike pump of the full-sized &quot;floor&quot; variety.)  Then pick up the bike and spin each tire -- they should spin freely, with no gritty feel in the bearings.  Note that the brakes may drag, but that's not a serious problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick up the rear wheel (or hang the whole thing from ropes or some such) and then turn the pedals with your hand.  The chain will likely clatter quite a bit, but by adjusting the shifters (and maybe &quot;helping&quot; the chain with your hand a bit) you should be able to get squarely onto gears front and rear and then turn the crank at a fair pace.  There may still be clatter, but you shouldn't feel a gritty feeling in the bearings of the crank.  (Note that if the chain is badly rusted with &quot;frozen links&quot; you won't be able to get beyond this point.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, try the brakes.  If the bike has been exposed to the weather the brake cables are apt to be badly rusted, but that not a big ticket item.  But for a test ride you want at least one working brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get this far, try to adjust the seat to about your height (this may require an Allen wrench of the appropriate metric size, or a regular adjustable wrench for a bolt head).  (Keep in mind that if anything on the bike is rusted it's apt to be the seat height adjustment, though.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you can get the seat semi-adjusted, get on the bike and try riding a short distance.  If you're brave you can try the shifters, but you're more feeling for a grinding feeling anywhere, in the pedals, wheels, or steering.  And somewhere along the way examine the condition of the tires, looking in particular for cracks in the sidewalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you may have no problems at all with the bike, in which case you can just ride it, though you should probably take it to a shop to be tuned up within a few weeks (or buy a good book on the topic and do it yourself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you may have found something (rusted brake cables, bad shifting, rotten tires, etc) that isn't &quot;fatal&quot; but demands more immediate service.  Almost certainly worth paying a shop to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you may have found crunchy bearings, severe overall rust, or some other problem that makes the bike at best a &quot;fixer upper&quot;.  Only spend money on this one if you've got a &quot;thing&quot; for &quot;lonely&quot; machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One thing to note:&lt;/strong&gt;  If you decide, for whatever reason, that the bike is not for you, ask around for an organization that &quot;recycles&quot; them.  In our area &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.christmasanonymous.org/&quot;&gt;Christmas Anonymous&lt;/a&gt; and the Kiwanis Club will take bikes in any condition to be rehabbed for kids and needy adults.  Bikes that are in too bad of shape to be rehabbed are stripped for spare parts and the rest is recycled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T01:17:21.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8903" CreationDate="2012-04-10T02:52:59.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personal favorite helmet company, both for quality and style is &lt;a href=&quot;http://Kask.It&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kask Safety&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make well made, craftsman quality helmets with modern engineering for safety, fit, comfort and ventilation, and with old world touches likes butter soft italian leather straps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find their road cycling helmets &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kask.it/kask/en/products?page=shop.browse&amp;amp;category_id=10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and their Urban designs &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kask.it/kask/en/products?page=shop.browse&amp;amp;category_id=14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kask.it/kask/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/bianco%20nero%20rosso%20copia.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a Kask Urban helmet http://www.kask.it/kask/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/bianco%20nero%20rosso%20copia.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="3644" LastEditDate="2012-06-29T10:10:56.917" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T10:10:56.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8907" CreationDate="2012-04-10T03:01:05.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's truly an alloy rim, it isn't rust. Use a metal polish, like you find at the auto parts store for polishing alloy wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will clean of and smooth out any surface issues without removing to much material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes elbow grease, or you can use a Dremel with a jewelry polishing wheel on it to do it faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T03:01:05.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-10T11:29:12.453" Score="4" ViewCount="6304" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my last question I asked about a creaking/tick I was getting when I was stand pedaling on a climb.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to my LBS today and they said they had stripped all the crank and BB and re-greased it all and all is well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took it out that evening it clearly wasn't and was probably worse so obviously I took it back there today. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They then told me that really the whole gear system is designed so that I don't need to stand pedal uphill.  My response was don't talk to me like a 5 year old and explained that I like the challenge of sprinting uphill.  Apparently according to the man who served me, theres not a lot I can do to prevent this noise when I'm stand pedaling?  My other bikes don't do it, but apparently a Trek 6300 does much to my confusion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please tell me if this is normal? Or am I getting conned?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He basically tried to make me feel a bit stupid as I'm still new to this and then decided that trying to sell me a Shimano Hollowtech 2 chainset including BB which would help strengthen the bottom of the bike and prevent the noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit confused now to be honest and would like some unbiased expert advice from you guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3755" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T23:45:30.237" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T23:45:30.237" Title="LBS said creaking under torque is normal?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8903" CreationDate="2012-04-10T12:45:54.170" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this nutcase helmet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FeJvO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like it, it's comfortable to wear and I love the way it looks. I'd say the ventilation was good but not great. It's certainly enough for the conditions I ride in - the temperature is rarely above 25°C and humidity is generally somewhere around 60%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the temperature and humidity you ride in is a lot higher, then you probably want something with a bit more airflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T12:45:54.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8929" CreationDate="2012-04-10T14:32:38.433" Score="11" ViewCount="10470" Body="&lt;p&gt;Learning to ride no-handed has been on my new year resolution list year after year after year and I still haven't done it. I'm 46 so I need to be careful about falling off. Do people have fool-proof techniques for learning to ride no-handed they can share?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify after &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1584/daniel-r-hicks&quot;&gt;Daniel&lt;/a&gt;'s comment below I have three bikes, a racer, a commuting bike, and a mountain bike. The mountain bike is twitchy but the others feel stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3704" LastEditorUserId="3704" LastEditDate="2018-09-17T10:54:29.177" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T17:39:00.837" Title="How does one ride 'no handed'?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8926" CreationDate="2012-04-10T16:01:57.417" Score="19" ViewCount="1560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never ridden a century ride before. This June, a friend and I plan to ride our first: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridetomontauk.com/Ride_to_Montauk_2012/Home_Page.html&quot;&gt;The Montauk Century Ride&lt;/a&gt;. But I'm wondering, why should we commit to paying $100+ to ride this route in relatively heavy bike traffic, from a starting point not chosen by us, on a day that could be rainy for all we know? Why not ride the route on a day chosen by us? It seems to me riding on our own might provide a more convenient experience and more meaningful challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1835" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T21:06:07.673" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T22:45:08.023" Title="Why participate in an organized century ride when I can ride the route on my own?" Tags="&lt;organized-rides&gt;&lt;race&gt;&lt;century&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8925" CreationDate="2012-04-10T16:29:40.840" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Details depend on the ride, but usually organized rides provide things that you'd have to provide yourself. This one appears to provide a lot. This is covered by the catchall term &quot;support&quot;, as in a supported ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The support that everyone enjoys is the food and drink along the way (&quot;The Best Rest Stops&quot;) - scroll down on the page you linked, and you'll see that in this case it's a lot better than just a powerbar and a refill for your bottle. It looks like there's even food, beer, showers, and massages after the ride!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support generally also includes some kind of assistance in case of breakdowns. Presumably you can fix flats, but say your tire is too damaged, or some component on your bike breaks. At the very least, you can get a ride in a support vehicle - and they might be able to help you get back on the road in some cases too. There's some about the S.A.G. (support and gear) service on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridetomontauk.com/Ride_to_Montauk_2012/Ride_Day!_When,_Where....html&quot;&gt;&quot;ride day&quot; page&lt;/a&gt;. They can also just give you a ride if a century turns out to be too much for you to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, another part of the appeal of rides like this is the &quot;relatively heavy bike traffic&quot;. Some people &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; riding with plenty of cyclists on the road, and perhaps to hang around with after. And you don't have to worry about getting lost, or being visible to drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the supported ride will be a very different experience. Think of it as the challenge of riding a century without any details to worry about, and a bit of a party along the way and at the end. If you know you can handle the distance self-supported, don't care about riding with others, and it's more convenient to ride on your own, go for it. But if you go for the supported ride, your money isn't just disappearing into thin air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T16:29:40.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8925" CreationDate="2012-04-10T16:41:31.703" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't done one of those big organized rides yet, but signed up for a local one in May (and a multi-day fundraising ride in September) and have volunteered helping out with some of that kind of ride before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most basically, those events usually make it easier and let you concentrate on riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Heavy bicycle traffic&quot; is also probably a good chance to draft and go faster with less effort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Heavy bicycle traffic&quot; makes you much more visible and potentially a lot safer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Heavy bicycle traffic&quot; might some new friends that you meet on the ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically the route has actually been tested out. No nasty surprises.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically the route is marked. Harder to miss the turn when there's a color-coded arrow on the ground for you and you just saw 50 riders ahead of you take the same turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically there's rest stops with food and beverages. You don't have to carry any of that with you or worry about the next place you can find water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically there's vehicles following along that can fix your flat, help with other mechanical issues, or even pick you and your bike up and drive you to the finish if you can't make it on your own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Often at the end of the ride there's secure valet bicycle parking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically there's food and beverages at the end of the event. Often you get a meal and a beer included in the ticket price.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes they'll have arranged road closures so that you don't have to stop at a bunch of stop signs. Maybe only at the start, maybe for the whole ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many of these rides are raising money for some good cause or another. Probably most of the money goes to making the ride happen, but some percentage might go to a charity of some sort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All those different forms of support make it so you can do a longer ride than you might otherwise be able to do. Absolutely you can just put together a route and go on a long ride with some buddies, but what do you do when 80 miles through your 100 mile ride you realize you just can't make it any further, if you have a problem with the bike you can't fix, you run out of food or water, etc? (yes there's absolutely answers but they require planning and possibly carrying more weight on your bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T16:41:31.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8925" CreationDate="2012-04-10T16:48:52.740" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing - you're not missing anything; going out and riding 100 miles on your own is fine, but going out on an organised ride is a different experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's about the camaraderie, following someone else's route, not having to think about the route - just follow the signs or the provided GPX, the provided rest stops, mechanical support, accurate timing, supporting a charity, getting the t-shirt at the end or just swapping stories after the event. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And sometimes it's about the peer pressure. If you're on your own and you wake up that morning and the weather's a little sub-optimal or you don't feel tip-top, you'll just turn over and go back to sleep. But you've paid 100 $CurrencyUnits, so you'll get up and do it. Or you're half way round and you feel like stopping or taking a short cut. Or suffering up that climb. Nothing like a cheery &quot;come on, mate&quot; from a colleague to get you sparking again and finishing something you might not have finished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T16:48:52.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8924" CreationDate="2012-04-10T17:04:47.927" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do it little by little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like a learner driver, go find a car park or a quiet road, you don't want to be doing this in the traffic. Ironically, you probably don't want to be doing this on a surface that will give you a soft landing. I suppose a flat playing field might work, but cycling on grass isn't as smooth as cycling on tarmac and you'll need a predictable, flat surface to work with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest skill to master is steering through weight, not through moving the handlebars. You probably do this anyway, but it's something to work on deliberately while you've got two hands on the bars. Just sway your weight from side to side and try to go in the direction you want - in a moment you'll be steering like this for real, so try and get it going well when you don't need it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's worth going one handed first - this is an all-or-nothing exercise. Get going in a straight line with your hands lightly on top of the bars (if you're on dropped handle-bars) and just relax your hands. Hold them flat on the bars and just lift them. Don't look at them. Just lift them a little. A fraction of an inch will feel like a foot ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then just try to do things with the hands off the bars. Do the leaning and swaying from side to side. Just a little amount. Just enough to drift a little off line then get you back going in a straight line. Then once you're happy, try to sit up. The more you practice, the less of a problem this becomes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will feel very unsteady as your centre of gravity moves around. The key here is that on most bikes your centre of gravity is quite low, somewhere around your knees, but as you take your hands off the bars and sit up, it rises significantly, so you need to be happy in controlling it and how to react to how the bike is taking it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty soon you'll be taking corners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, don't forget that, unless you're on a fixed or have non-standard equipment, the only way to stop suddenly is probably quite painful ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T17:04:47.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8925" CreationDate="2012-04-10T17:35:26.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once went for a recognition ride on a race track for a competition just a day before the actual event. The track was exactly the same, it was already marked and it did not cross any fence or busy street (it was a pure mountain biking race). Of course, I went to the competition the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference was purely psychological, but big enough to make it for the inscription fee. Most the reasons have already been mentioned, but I want to stress out that the fact that you are sharing the way with a lot of other riders, you can learn a lot, watch different equipment setups, see how other people have advantage over you or vice-versa. You can also get the chance to &quot;teach&quot; or couch somebody else and hopefully you'll meet new friends/ride partners. It is amazing how much practical knowledge is shared among cyclists during these events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a whole lot of other psychological aspects linked to the advantages already brought to the topic (logistics, mechanical aids, drafting, etc) like the possibility of impressing a few couch potato friends by showing you actually accomplished a huge challenge, or simply being cheered up by a lot of strangers near the end of the track. I can guarantee you'll get a rush of energy that will make you forget how tired you are and pedal with all your energy trough the end (even if it's not a competition!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the course you'll get involved in all kinds of conversations that will make the event last longer and you'll remember for the rest of your life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I usually ride a lot in paths later used for races or &quot;mass cycling events&quot;, and I can surely opt in for the paid ride almost every chance I get, the experience simply has no match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage (at least for me) is the chance of getting action pictures taken of you while you are completely focused in riding, that look a lot better than when you try to get them by yourself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T17:35:26.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8925" CreationDate="2012-04-10T17:46:06.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've gotten some great answers which I agree with entirely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other item though. Many, and perhaps most, organized Centuries in the U.S. are philanthropic in nature. So that is another reason for participating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Montauk ride is at least partially philanthropic...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We Support Our Community&#xA;  It’s important to us to leave money behind where we ride. That’s why we donate to charities all along the route such as the Lynbrook Fire Department, Blue Point Boy Scouts, Southampton High School, and more. You do not need to raise money to pedal this ride -- just pay the basic ride fee and you’re ready to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you feel civically and charitably minded, then that's a perfectly good reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it's also nice to have the support on one's first century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-04-10T17:55:20.450" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T17:55:20.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8925" CreationDate="2012-04-10T18:31:52.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Organized rides are great. You get a lot of support in terms of rest stops, mechanical help, and medical assistance. A subset of this is charity rides. These are particularly nice because there are often people along the route cheering for you at various points along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, riding solo is more challenging and you get the choose your route. It has a lot more challenges involved. The nice thing about a group ride is you can generally do them on a road bike, and don't need to burden yourself with tools, food, liquids, the bags that carry them, or anything else really. You may not even need a water bottle. If you enjoy the logistical challenge you may want to do more solo rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another great experience is staffing a group ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T18:31:52.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8922" CreationDate="2012-04-10T18:50:48.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, to respond to the issue of your LBS -- you shouldn't be made to feel foolish or to feel obligated to purchase expensive replacement parts. The lack of attention and reassurance you're getting suggests that maybe you need to take your business elsewhere (which can be difficult if there are few local options).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, your creak/tick is not normal (and, as many have rightly pointed out, could come from many components which carry your pedaling force). While there are a number of components which have a tendency to creak or tick while remaining safe and functional (your BB for example), what your LBS should have checked for is any integrity issues with your frame (though, they may have done so and not mentioned it. Who knows?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycle frames (Al, CroMo, Ti, Carbon Fiber...) can develop cracks in a number of places which, when stressed by pedaling aggressively, can generate creaks or ticks in time with pedaling forces. Some bike frames will live decades with cracks while others can--and do--fail catastrophically (i.e. your head tube tearing off...though, thankfully, this is infrequent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend that you take your bike to a different bike shop and ask them to investigate this potential problem (more info on frame inspections &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/maintenance/repair-maintenance/bike-frame-repair&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). If they're good, they'll give you sound advice about repairs or replacement (avoid trashing your other shop, though. It's bad etiquette.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the noise is a component, a good shop will solve the problem; a mediocre shop will replace every component one-by-one until the issue is solved (and a terrible shop will try to sell you a new bike!) Understand, however, that nuisance squeaks and creaks can be quite common--even for experienced cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T18:50:48.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8924" CreationDate="2012-04-10T19:17:55.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to mention is if the bike is messed up at all, it's a lot harder to ride no-handed. I have a &quot;beater&quot; I bought for $1 at a garage sale to ride/leave at the train station. It must have a bend in the frame somewhere b/c I can't let go of the bars w/out it pulling. My road bike however, I can go easily and corner no handed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's easiest to do while pedaling, and to learn to &quot;stear with your hips&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="853" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T19:17:55.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8924" CreationDate="2012-04-10T19:54:23.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should find it pretty easy to pedal with no hands for a second. Once you're able to do this, progressively leave your hands off the bars for longer. It's easy to work up to riding no handed comfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things you should note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding no-handed is actually pretty dangerous. If you accidentally hit a walnut-sized rock it can turn your handlebars enough to toss you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding no-handed is illegal in some areas, and you can get a hefty ticket (e.g. Ontario).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T19:54:23.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2012-04-10T21:19:11.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of good answers below. I cycle 5 miles either way each day and use the 'spare clothes routine' left at work. Each day I have something new to wear, just one item, so clothes are continually being transported back and forth. The shoes always stay there. Get a good back pack, they are light and should not make you sweat if they are the type that sit off your back. I also have double cycling gear - 2 shorts, 2 leg warmers for winter, 2 socks etc, just in case it rains and one lot doesn't dry by coming home time. And who cares about getting wet on the home trip anyway? I would also seriously ask at work about somewhere to change; they want a healthy and active workforce, don't they? Tell the others in the office what you want and get their support. I've also been given a key to a small boiler room where I also leave the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3765" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T21:19:11.333" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-04-10T21:19:11.333" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8922" CreationDate="2012-04-10T21:59:05.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe this should be a comment to WTHarper's answer, but creaks when pedaling can also be fasteners that are failing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an electric bike that has two chains and an intermediate axle - a chain goes from the cranks to the intermediate, then another from the intermediate to the freewheel.  I started hearing creaking noises when pedaling hard, but didn't get a chance to look into it until the 4 bolts holding a cog on the intermediate had sheared off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gYNg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sheared bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T21:59:05.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6282" CreationDate="2012-04-10T22:00:13.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It'd be best if they simply obeyed the traffic laws, but the few times I've brought this up with wrong-way riders, I've encountered everything from disbelief to hostility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I simply do my best to avoid them and not collide with them. To that end, I've found that you can usually &quot;direct&quot; these riders within the bike lane or shoulder. When I see them in the distance riding towards me, I'll point at them, then left, while I simultaneously move to the right. (If time permits, I'll point at myself &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt;, to make it clear I'm saying &quot;How about if we &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; ride on the right side of this lane.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It almost always works, and many wrong-way cyclists actually seem to appreciate this; I've gotten a few friendly nods from doing this. This technique has worked on the streets of New York City, various locations in New Jersey, and also while on tour in Rhode Island. However, note that some areas may have laws that make signaling like this problematic, possibly opening you up to liability if there's an accident caused by your signals. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/6410/8&quot;&gt;Here's an example&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T16:37:19.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8941" CreationDate="2012-04-10T23:20:02.993" Score="5" ViewCount="2431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to bicycling; apologies if this is a standard question but I couldn't figure out how to phrase it to search for it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a KHS Urban-X with Kenda Kwest tires (just what it came with). I've gotten barely any use out of it since owning it, and it's been resting comfortably in the living room through the winter, so I decided today was a great day to get back on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I unscrewed the back tire cap, and began to hand-pump air into the tire. All seemed to go well, and the tire held pressure fine, but when I removed the tire pump, the pin appeared to remain pushed down slightly, and air flowed back out of the tire. I looked, and this is what I saw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m06Dy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several narrow gashes that appear as if the rubbed was ripped, cut, or separated somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Questions&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a common occurrence? Again, I've ridden on this bike very little and thus filled up the tires even less. We have no animals and no bugs around that I know of that would gnaw or chew on such material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this fixable, or is my tube completely shot? It would seem to me that the latter is the case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything I can do to prevent this in the future? I use a hand pump but am gentle; would a stand-up pump be a better choice? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do bike tires come with a standard warranty for cases like this, or do you know of any brands that do? If I have to purchase new tires, I'm going to purchase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any kind of &quot;off-season&quot; maintenance that I should be performing on my bike that could prevent things like this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any help you can give!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1959" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T13:34:02.707" Title="Gash where valve meets tire tube; How could this happen, and can I fix it?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8922" CreationDate="2012-04-10T23:34:53.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the same problem and it was infuriating. I took it to 3 different shops with varying levels of success. Eventually I found an excellent shop who spent about a week investigating and fixing. In the end they found creaks in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom bracket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset/steering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels (both with spokes and the quick release being too loose)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have my whisper quiet bike back, but the investigation took a lot of effort and skill. I'd suggest trying to find a better bike shop that specialises in servicing rather than sales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T23:34:53.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8939" CreationDate="2012-04-10T23:37:55.047" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely this is a result of riding the tire while the pressure is too low.  When you do that the tube tends to slide around in the tire and can get cut against the edge of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this could also be the result of using a hand pump, which, if you don't &quot;buck&quot; it against something or hold the head steady will move the stem back and forth rather violently.  A &quot;floor pump&quot; prevents this sort of damage (and also makes inflation much easier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tube is toast.  However, this is not a particularly expensive repair.  A new tube will run you $5-10, and replacing it is something you need to learn to do anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T23:37:55.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8939" CreationDate="2012-04-10T23:58:56.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be caused by a tube that was installed with the valve not perpendicular to the rim. It's quite a common problem, and I don't believe that a patch will work because they're designed to work on flat rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T23:58:56.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2012-04-11T03:18:46.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nice thing about cheap bikes is that they cost less than the sum of their components, and when you ride them, they get you from a-b just like the expensive bike. The cheapest upgrade is to adjust and grease the bearings properly. While doing this, the bearings with cages can be replaced with loose ball bearings giving more bearing contact points. Adjust the wheels properly for true and spoke tension. I you learn to do this yourself it costs almost nothing, just need a spoke wrench, and a cheap bike is a good one to learn skills on. I put chain adjusters on my fixie's rear axles to help align the wheel while setting the chain tension, there are some very inexpensive ones on the web. Tools needed to work on your own bike are always a good investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3849" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T03:18:46.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8922" CreationDate="2012-04-11T05:39:42.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your chainring bolts. As others have said, creaks can come from a lot of places and even sound like they're coming from one spot when it's really somewhere else. Modern frames are like guitar bodies, they amplify/resonate the sound and often obfuscate the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T05:39:42.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8905" CreationDate="2012-04-11T06:18:08.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Garmin, originally with my iPhone, and since with my Garmin Edge 800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's really nothing to discuss, it's been solid for at least 4 years, requires no set up, and just works, at least in my experience. I use the Wahoo iPhone dongle, when I use it for my iPhone, and when I use the iPhone to set up my power meter crank set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't find using the iPhone to be all that practical to use as a bike computer, and the cost of the sensors and dongles and cases was just about the same as the dedicated Edge 800 by the time all was said and done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T06:18:08.893" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-11T12:54:38.660" Score="4" ViewCount="2984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a new Cannondale Synapse Alloy 6 in early March. I have roughly 250 miles on it. After the first 100 miles I took it back to my LBS to have it adjusted and tightened up. Before I did this, it would creak a fair amount when pedaling hard or shifting my weight around on the bike. The 100 mile adjustment didn't seem to help this. I know my LBS actually did what they were supposed to do because I watched them. I can't really tell where the creaks are coming from, but it's in multiple places. One place it seems to be a bit noisy is in the crank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think that for the $1100 I paid for this bike, it should be absolutely silent. Is this normal for my type of bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T21:57:32.137" Title="Is this normal for my new Cannondale Synapse Alloy 6?" Tags="&lt;noise&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8946" CreationDate="2012-04-11T13:18:42.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No bike, no matter how good, is absolutely silent. It's possible that this bike needs to be tuned better, but more likely, it's simply the fact that it is Shimano's most basic 10 speed components and what is for Cannondale a more basic alloy frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest taking it to a different LBS for an opinion on what the real problem is, or if there is one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be a loose or dry bottom bracket, headset, hubs, chain, chain ring bolts, saddle, seat post or pretty much any  other moving part on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T17:55:26.400" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T17:55:26.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8916" CreationDate="2012-04-11T13:28:55.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing I would try to avoid with a 'free' bike would be getting too involved with it, depending on the starting quality. I can only speak for myself, but given a project I tend to go overboard with ordering parts, upgrading broken/missing components, and otherwise sinking a lot of money into something that wasn't worth it in the first place, like a Next / Walmart bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd assess realistically what you want to do with it and how much you're actually going to ride it, etc. Tune up issues and the things most people have mentioned here are cheap fixes and in general worth doing if you're going to ride it at all. I'd stop before it gets to replacing forks / wheels / drivetrain, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T13:28:55.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8946" CreationDate="2012-04-11T14:05:17.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing to worry about with a noisy crank is that the crank arm may be loose.  If this is so then the crank arm and shaft will be destroyed in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably the shop checked to be sure that the crank arms were tight.  If so, then on a new bike there are no other creaks that are likely to signal a serious problem.  Whether the noises should be there is another question, but as Zen says, no bike is perfectly silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T14:05:17.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2012-04-11T15:04:48.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheapest thing to upgrade on a bicycle is the motor. It costs as much as a bit of extra food and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride a lot. Ride up big hills a lot. Go as fast as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited because some dumbass downvoted this most brilliant answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None other than Eddy Mercx, (who won the Tour de France 5 times and once cycled 49.431 km in an hour), once said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't buy upgrades, ride up grades.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;QED&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2XZX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Eddy Mercx riding up a hill&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-06-15T16:42:34.907" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T16:42:34.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8946" CreationDate="2012-04-11T15:06:52.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you looked after the chain properly? A two month old bike, ridden in adverse conditions, could easily have developed a creaky chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T15:06:52.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-11T15:09:13.443" Score="5" ViewCount="3638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the middle of a frame swap for my road bike. As I'm putting the bike back together, I've been wondering what all needs lubrication? Is there a comprehensive list somewhere that explains what parts need it? My list so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both Bottom Bracket Cap's Threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cable Housings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T17:54:20.987" Title="Bike Assembly - What all needs lubrication?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8952" CreationDate="2012-04-11T15:49:16.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To keep it simple, any place where one piece of metal touches another needs grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threads of any bolt or fastener, brake posts, head tube and headset cups, bottom bracket threads, water bottle bolt threads, pedal threads, and seat post/seat tube interface get grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a carbon frame, the seat post, and handle bar/stem interface get carbon friction paste instead of grease. and you should use a torque wrench to install the components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Titanium frames get copper paste in place of regular grease, with special care taken where aluminum and titanium might touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coat the outside of any cartridge bearing, where they touch the frame, to prevent corrosion as well.  Key here is &lt;em&gt;lightly&lt;/em&gt; coat them, too much just picks up dirt and makes a mess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cables should be lubricated with a light oil, like Brunox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the chain needs regular lubrication, every 2-4 weeks, depending on climate, using a bike specific chain lube. I prefer Teflon products like the one from Finish Line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T17:54:20.987" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T17:54:20.987" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8904" CreationDate="2012-04-11T16:45:34.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is too subjective to answer well, but here's a few things to think over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A used bike can appear to be in great shape, and still require a large amount of work and money to put right. If you don't know much about the mechanical side of cycling, I always recommend buying new, from a local bike shop you trust, that services their own bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Size is very personal and very specific. Used bikes can fit well, but you need good advice about what fits you, and what doesn't and why. That can be difficult to get from a person selling a bike when they only have one size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new, but very basic bike, like the one listed above, can be a very short term purchase, if you get into cycling, and you may need or want to replace it in less than one year. It may be worthwhile to wait a bit longer, save a bit more money, and get a bike which will last you 2-3 years, before you will outgrow it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I always recommend you buy the best bike that you can afford. You won't regret it, and it makes it more likely you will enjoy the sport. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T16:45:34.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8956" CreationDate="2012-04-11T17:12:58.670" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this SRAM PC1091 chain for my compact chainset and have been running it since January. In order for the chain to fit properly I cut a few links from it.&#xA;I am now getting a standard chainset, so I think I will have to add some links back on the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I reattach this link to my chain to make it longer? This is how I left it when I chopped it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGubx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3423" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T17:48:24.180" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T17:48:24.180" Title="Can I use this chainlink?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8955" CreationDate="2012-04-11T17:41:39.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can, but it leaves the chain weaker on that link. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SRAM chains are designed to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-components/2012-sram-10-speed-power-link-pack-of-4-5696.23.1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;work with a master link&lt;/a&gt;. If you use that one, it's not reusable, but it comes in a pack of 4, so you can open and close it a few times for cleaning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T17:46:57.563" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T17:46:57.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8905" CreationDate="2012-04-11T17:49:34.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fady listening to music while riding is probably the most dangerous thing you can do so do not explore that idea please.. With that said I use the edge 500 and it has loads of functionality and will most likely support all your needs. You will usually need to purchase a speed/ cadence sensor with it. Battery life is great so long as you have it set to turn off with inactivity. I do still carry my phone in my jersey pocket when out alone just in case somethin happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3851" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T17:49:34.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-11T19:05:27.760" Score="2" ViewCount="3443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hatchback-style Vehicle (2007 Ford Focus) and a KHS Urban-X Bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any standard styles of mount that work best in this situation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you recommend any in particular or point me towards particular styles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1959" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T17:19:06.440" Title="Bike Rack for Hatchback vehicle?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8976" CreationDate="2012-04-11T19:13:02.933" Score="4" ViewCount="1390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that 10-speed chains cost 2.5 times as much as their 9 speed counterparts. Is this just because there isn't much demand for these, so the manufacturers can justify the ridiculous expense? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a cheaper option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T03:23:17.903" Title="Why are 10 speed chains so expensive?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2012-04-11T19:37:47.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On tires with tubes (which is what most of us have) you should always ride with the maximum recommended pressure but be sure to check both the tires and tubes max PSI. This is mainly to avoid pinch flats but also to decrease rolling resistance. It also will kick debris out from under the tire quicker to help avoid punctures. If you are on tubulars its less of a factor. If you are on nice roads on tubular tires i would always want to max them out as the are usually able to inflate to higher pressue thus reducing rolling resistance. On the other side with tubulars it is still safe to run them lower for nastier surfaces. For more information on tubulars and low pressure google Paris Roubaix + tires and you'll see why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3851" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T19:37:47.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8973" CreationDate="2012-04-11T20:12:53.917" Score="4" ViewCount="3640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek 3500 that I need to lock up when I ride city trails, but I have been nervous as both of the wheels are incredibly easy to remove (flip a switch, rotate a lever a few times and they detach in seconds.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a cable lock assuming it would be sufficient, but the more I read here about how easy cable locks are to remove I'm getting a little nervous as bike theft is a pretty big problem in my area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a combination of a cable and a U-Lock the best? I purchased a decent (but not high end) cable lock, and I reviewed most of the suggestions for locks found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/141/best-bike-lock&quot; title=&quot;Best bike lock&quot;&gt;Best bike lock&lt;/a&gt; and the other threads. However the cost of a combination of these locks is around $120+. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, its not the money (as having to buy a new bike obviously wouldn't be good), but is it worth it to invest so much into a combination of lock systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3843" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T11:31:49.590" Title="Bike lock for a Mountain bike with easily removable wheels" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8962" CreationDate="2012-04-11T20:25:24.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;my bike was stolen recently (in SF) with a basic ulock, so i decided to get a chain lock &amp;amp; and abus ulock for the front tire/frame. (abus locks our light but with no compromise to protection) If one were looking to have maximum protection, i'd think both of these locks would do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FL3EB6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OnGuard Beast 5017 Bicycle Chain Lock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005F3GZTM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Abus Granit Futura 64 Mini Shackle Bicycle U Lock - 150mm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit:&lt;/strong&gt; well, i would recommend the abus lock, as it has the same protection level as kryptonite / on guard locks, but is &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; lighter in weight, which is nice. i had my previous kryptonite lock broken into, so i decided to try another brand. the on guard chain is a little overkill, but it will certainly get the job done.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i would use the ulock for the front tire and frame and then loop the chain lock around the back tire and through the ulock.  the chain is heavy, so i recommend wrapping it around your waist when riding, NOT around your shoulder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastEditorUserId="1331" LastEditDate="2012-04-14T13:48:11.707" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T13:48:11.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8960" CreationDate="2012-04-11T20:49:17.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My assumption is that racing bicycles (which 10 speed chains are generally used on) are used by an audience with a much higher median income than any other cyclist. I read an article recently and i believe the salary was around 60k a year. I think the industry uses this as a means to inflate the prices on all 10speed/ racing style bicycles. Just my assumption tho :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also i do no know of any alternative other than a cheaper chain which will typically be heavier but usually just as or more durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3851" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T20:49:17.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2012-04-11T22:12:22.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recieved veloplugs today for the wheels i am building and i must say that i like the design and the fit. I measured the holes inside the rim and they were exactly 8mm so i went with the same 8mm model plugs. If you dont know yours you will definetley have to remove your tire and tube and peel back the tape to get a good measurement. I weighed the tape used on my old rims and it weighed 36 grams from both. I forget the exact math but it was almost a full 30 grams i would be saving on rotational wheel weight and the fit actually gives me confidence to go with a lighter tube due to less concern of pinching on install with rim tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3851" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T22:12:22.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-11T22:26:01.453" Score="1" ViewCount="3468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Giant Cypress I use for commuting, and the entire drivetrain is very worn out (shark teeth and chipped teeth, front and back).  I need to replace the Shimano MF-TZ20 7-speed (14-34t) freewheel, chain (I know to enough to always replace the chain when replacing the freewheel!), and Shimano M131 (48/38/28t) crankset (not just the chain rings, unfortunately, because they're riveted on this cheap crankset)-:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a very flat commute and would like a taller top gear, so I'm thinking of using an MF-HG37 (13-28t) freewheel in back (since I never need the 34 rear gear on my ride anyway), and that seems like a straightforward substitution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm really wondering about is whether I can increase my top gear further by using a crankset such as the FC-2303 (52/40/30).  Shimano says it is &quot;8 speed compatible&quot;, and I know 8 speed chains are the same width as 7 speed chains, so it &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; like it should be OK.  Can anybody set me straight for sure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3856" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T15:21:01.923" Title="Can I use an &quot;8 speed compatible&quot; crank such as Shimano FC-2303 with a 7 speed Shimano MF-HG37 freewheel?" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8966" CreationDate="2012-04-11T23:14:29.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Should work fine. Look up your front derailer model number on Google and see if you can find the max teeth spec, generally the curvature of the front derailer cage will limit it to use with a max number of teeth on the largest ring of the crankset. Even if the front derailer says max 48T you could probably get it to work well enough with some tinkering. Front derailers are relatively cheap, so replacing that is always an option.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@zenbike is correct. I overlooked the fact that a front mountain shift/der with a road crank may cause issues for the exact reasons he listed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://jtekengineering.com/shiftmate_straight.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;JTek&lt;/a&gt; does make a product called ShiftMate which is an inline pulley that changes cable ratio/travel. The #7S model allows the use of a mountain front shifter with a road derailer/crankset. Albeit you might be able to find a front road flat bar shifter cheaper than the JTek ShiftMate. In either case a road front derailer is a necessity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Sutherlands, 7/8 speed chain is 7.1 - 7.3mm wide with 7.1 often associated with Shimano IG and 7.3 with Shimano HG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: DNP Epoch makes an 11-28 freewheel if you wanted to get even taller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastEditorUserId="3088" LastEditDate="2012-04-12T15:21:01.923" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T15:21:01.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8962" CreationDate="2012-04-11T23:29:03.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I present to you the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Modified Sheldon Brown Method&lt;/a&gt; which I use regularly on most of my bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T23:29:03.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5076" CreationDate="2012-04-11T23:44:14.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Rem-Oil for my chain. I wipe it clean by spinning the crank many times with a towel in hand and wrapped around the chain. I do this until there is very little black goo coming off. I then again spin the crank and spray Rem-Oil down into the links and let it sit for maybe like 10 mins or so at least. I then come back to it and spin the crank with another towel until it the towel again is not longer leaving black goo marks. This works very well for me and i ride maybe 200 miles a week and do it at least once a week. Rem-Oil is cheap so this has been good for me. I used Rem-Oil while in Iraq and my rifle was typically always cleaner than everyone elses due to the fact that dust never stuck to it unlike issued CLP. For this reason i trust it on my bike chain and it works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3851" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T23:44:14.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-12T00:03:03.343" Score="5" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the experienced builders. What are the absolutely neccessary tools to build a reliable trued wheel? The wheel will be a 700c wheel for a standard road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3851" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T03:01:13.453" Title="Wheel Build Questions for Those who have done it" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8970" CreationDate="2012-04-12T00:23:30.500" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are definitely more sophisticated tools for this but in my mind the essential kit includes (1) the right-sized spoke wrench, (2) a flathead screwdriver, (3) grease for spoke threads, (4) the front dropouts on an upside-down bicycle with brake pads for truing, and (5) lots of patience if you haven't done it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this assumes you have a rim and hub with the same hole count, along with correctly-sized spokes and enough spoke nipples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="1364" LastEditDate="2012-04-12T01:26:50.640" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T01:26:50.640" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8960" CreationDate="2012-04-12T02:33:09.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that the ten speed chains have a narrower link in order to fit the tighter cassette, which might actually cost more to fabricate.  I know that in the SRAM chains you have to use a new PowerLock link each time according to the instructions, so it's still tool less but not something you want to use for a weekly cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T02:33:09.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8962" CreationDate="2012-04-12T02:44:31.387" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you might swap your current quick-release skewers by one of the many &quot;anti-theft&quot; alternatives (listed in my perceived order of security):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitlock (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.com&quot;&gt;www.pitlock.com&lt;/a&gt;): these require a special shaped key to open. You carry the keys with you, and no thief could take the wheel. Neither yourself if you lose the damn key;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Velo Orange &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/vo-anti-theft-skewers.html&quot;&gt;anti-theft skewers&lt;/a&gt;: a 5mm allen bolt with a pin inside. Need a special 5mm allen key with a drilled tip, to open. VERY clever... No thief in the world would have this drilled key;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gravity-activated skewers, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zefal.com/en/locks/81-lock-n-roll.html&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; by Zéfal: there is some moving part inside the skewers acting as a lock on certain bike positions. When your bike is locked to something else, it cannot be turned upside down so it's impossible to take the wheels away;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Numbered padlock&quot; style skewer: these have those infamous numbered dials. You have to match a secret code to open the skewer. Although one can try to guess the number, there are 1000 combinations on the 3-digit models. Don't know how they react to weather and dirt, though...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of other alternatives. The main idea is to replace the quick-release skewers for some anti-theft ones, so the wheels (and maybe seatpost) don't need to be locked, only the bike frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T02:44:31.387" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8970" CreationDate="2012-04-12T03:01:13.453" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To properly true and tension a wheel: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nipple driver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Truing stand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tensiometer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke prep or Linseed oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, of course, jury rig a Truing stand as others have mentioned, and you can build without a way to measure the tension on the spokes.  Without a lot of practice and skill, though, your wheels will be less than perfectly strong and straight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should use a thread locker on the spoke nipples. Ideally, Spoke Prep from DT Swiss, or Linseed Oil, which acts as a lubricant until it dries, but acts as a thread lock once it's dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book at the end of the list will teach you the theory behind how a wheel is built and why, and the lacing patterns, and what works best, and why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T03:01:13.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8966" CreationDate="2012-04-12T03:09:53.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The FC-2303 is a non series road crank set. It will work, with some shifting degradation, but it is not an ideal match. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 speed road shifters, and 8 speed mountain shifters pull a different amount of cable, because the spacing of the chain rings on a road crank is different than that on a mountain crank set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want it to work well, you need to also change your front derailleur, and front shifter. Depending on your bike and the direction of cable pull, you may or may not be able to put a road dérailleur on it, but you can get a touring dérailleur. And you'll need an 8 speed flat bar road shifter which will pull the correct amount of cable for for an 8 speed road crank set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T03:09:53.537" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8960" CreationDate="2012-04-12T03:23:17.903" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 10 speed compatible chains starting around $20. However, most shops, in order to limit the number of different items they need to stock, will only stock higher end chains, usually 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace, and SRAM's PC-1071 and 1091r. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which are more expensive, but have the advantage of being compatible with any 10 speed drive train. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely, there is some difference in price because 10 speed technology is only just starting to move to the most basic of quality bikes, and there hasn't until recently been a need for a low price/basic quality option for 10 speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9 speed was the same way. It will get better, as the need for low end 10 speed gets more universal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T03:23:17.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8958" CreationDate="2012-04-12T03:26:13.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for something similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rutlandcycling.com/262/Pendle-Strap-On-3-Bike-Rack---SO.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pendle SO&lt;/a&gt;. They are good quality, cheap, easy to use, and about the only way to go on a hatchback. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T03:26:13.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8958" CreationDate="2012-04-12T03:53:34.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Saris Bones racks are popular and have good quality construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T03:53:34.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8983" CreationDate="2012-04-12T04:26:48.847" Score="2" ViewCount="1170" Body="&lt;p&gt;What considerations should be made for converting a downstem shifting system to barcons? Both the current system and the system that I would like are friction shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is a 1986 Peugeot Iseran 10-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and be well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3858" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T14:48:44.087" Title="Converting downstem shifters to barcons" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8979" CreationDate="2012-04-12T06:34:54.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the '86 Peugeot catalog you're dealing with stem shifters. You should have cable stops on the downtube. You will use those. Measure your handlebar inside diameter to ensure you can find barcons that will fit. If it's not standardized, get a new handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T06:34:54.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8872" CreationDate="2012-04-12T13:06:53.440" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Schlumpf drives have been around for several years and incorporate a two-speed planetary gear drive attached to the bottom bracket. With the heel of your shoe, you tap a small button centered on the end of the bottom bracket to engage and disengage the planetary gear. Three models are available: a &quot;mountain gear&quot; version that lowers whatever other gears you have by a factor of 2.5; a &quot;speed gear&quot; version that raises your other gears by 1.65x; and a &quot;high-speed gear&quot; version that raises your other gears by 2.5x. The Schlumpf drives have been marketed to specialty bicycles such as folding or recumbent bikes that use small diameter wheels, and thus can have difficulty getting &quot;normal&quot; gearing using off-the-shelf components. Schlumpfs have also been installed on unicycles which (obviously) are ordinarily a single fixed-gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage of the Schlumpf drive is that with only one chain ring, there is no need for a front derailleur and the chain line is straight -- and one can tap the button to engage or disengage the drive even while stopped. However, despite the straight chain the Schlumpf drive appears to be less efficient in terms of power transmission. Measurements suggest that the Schlumpf drives &quot;cost&quot; about 5% extra in drive train losses. Since conventional derailleur systems range from around 92% to 97% in transmission efficiency (see for example, the work of Kyle and Berto &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp52-2001.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), an additional 5% loss can be a considerable cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pinion.eu/en/discover-pinion/pinion-p1-18/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pinion&lt;/a&gt; has brought an 18-speed gearbox to the market, the P1.18. It isn't a &quot;true&quot; bottom-bracket with internal gears as is the Schlumpf -- rather, the gearbox is in a separate housing attached next to the bottom bracket, and it is not an &quot;after-market&quot; solution that can be easily added onto an existing bike. The Pinion is intended for downhill or freeride bicycles that are purpose-built around the device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2013-12-07T16:29:22.333" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T16:29:22.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8979" CreationDate="2012-04-12T14:48:44.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they are both friction shift sets, there is no conversion necessary. Just new cables, and placing the new shifters on the bar before routing the new cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Difficulty might be finding good quality friction shifters to begin with, but there's nothing complicated about the changeover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T14:48:44.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8872" CreationDate="2012-04-12T14:53:10.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FSA Metropolis. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/04/26/fsa-unveils-metropolis-patterson-drive-internal-geared-crankset-for-commuters/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/04/26/fsa-unveils-metropolis-patterson-drive-internal-geared-crankset-for-commuters/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages? No front derailer and better ground clearance at the crankset. Disadvantages? Expensive. Proprietary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T14:53:10.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8958" CreationDate="2012-04-13T00:05:26.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My answer only applies if you will be hauling your bike(s) frequently or somewhat frequently.&lt;/em&gt; My solution may not be worth it for occasional use, because one would need to invest in a trailer hitch for mounting the rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a trailer hitch like this:&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rh1EW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;typical trailer hitch&quot;&gt; (Notice that the &quot;trailer&quot; hitching part is removable and the bike rack fits into that spot) And then choose one of several &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ix=seb&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=trailer%20hitch%20bike%20racks&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;prmd=imvns&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;ei=qWyHT6OCCseciAKruanPAg&amp;amp;ved=0COUBEK0E&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&amp;amp;fp=8cac8a18d8542941&amp;amp;ix=seb&amp;amp;biw=1191&amp;amp;bih=735&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;trailer hitch bike racks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may or may not haul a trailer, however, the bikes will ride a hitch mount just fine. With a hitch mount you don't have to worry about overhead clearance or (usually) the inability to open the rear hatch of the car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hitch mount can haul 4 bikes, (and I can still open the trunk) but I haven't used the total capacity yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do I like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bike rack locks onto the trailer hitch in 5 minutes or less&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bikes are situated in 15 minutes or less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm good to go. I don't have to worry about strapping things down or getting the trunk open, or overhead clearance. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T21:04:41.157" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T21:04:41.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8958" CreationDate="2012-04-13T01:06:12.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Thule rack (on my mini cooper), it works great (takes about 10 seconds to mount a bike), and I can still open the hatch with it on.  It comes in a 1.25 and 2 inch hitch size (the 2 inch version can expand to hold 4 bikes, the 1.25 will hold max of 2 bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004YQAGNM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thule 2 Bike Platform Hitch Rack (917XTR-T2)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not a cheap rack, but it is worth the price for the hassle it saves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3864" LastEditorUserId="6797" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T17:19:06.440" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T17:19:06.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8988" CreationDate="2012-04-13T03:12:01.353" Score="16" ViewCount="42153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week, I had to abandon a training ride due to my chain slipping off my rear derailleur jockey wheel. This would only happen when shifting, and most often when either shifting chainrings or shifting multiple cogs in one go. I took the bike in to my LBS, and they diagnosed it as a bent derailleur hanger — a reasonable guess, given I took a spill in a crit the previous week (although, curiously, I did not have any problems in the race between my wreck and the training ride). They bent the hanger back into place and sent me on my way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tonight, on my first ride after the fix, the problem was happening again. Same deal, but less frequent. Shifting multiple cogs, especially right before/after a chainring shift would reproduce the problem with a high probability. After getting home, I put my bike in my stand and checked the alignment with a derailleur alignment gauge. It's absolutely perfect. And yet a little shifting while in the stand and I was able to easily reproduce the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain slips off bottom derailleur jockey wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;perfect derailleur hanger alignment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;only during &quot;significant&quot; shifts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not limited to shifting under load&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRAM Force components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pics are below. Any ideas? If more pictures are necessary in order to diagnose the problem, I'll be happy to provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: After discussion in the comments, the problem is almost certainly that the derailleur cage is twisted and misaligned. Time for a new derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: New derailleur purchased. Problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pqqSY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front view&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/chZyE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear view&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWf2b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side view (on pulley)&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BoZHY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear view (on pulley)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="10840" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T20:27:06.620" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T20:27:06.620" Title="Chain slipping off derailleur jockey" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8987" CreationDate="2012-04-13T04:02:24.407" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;This type of problem has 5 likely causes, listed in order of elimination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bent dérailleur hanger, or &lt;strong&gt;Bent derailleur cage&lt;/strong&gt;. (Your derailleur hanger looks straight, but the cage appears slightly twisted in the upper photo. Could be the angle of the shot, though.) &lt;strong&gt;Edit: This turned out to be the correct answer, after all.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bent, twisted, or sticky chain link. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Badly worn dérailleur pulley wheels. This means there is not enough tooth left to hold the chain on the pulley wheel. (In my opinion this is most likely, but I'd need a photo of the derailleur side on to confirm.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn chain. A badly worn chain will slip off the pulleys in this manner, sometimes. Usually, you would also experience slow and noisy shifting in the rear gears. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn cassette. Usually, you would also experience slow and noisy shifting in the rear gears, not just the pulley derailment, and usually it would be preceded by a worn chain. But it is possible, especially if the chain has recently been changed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've checked the derailleur hanger, so #1 is less likely. Although I would look at the derailleur cage or body. It really does appear bent in the second photo, unless the derailment is putting outside pressure on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would see and feel #2 on the repair stand, so I assume that is unlikely, although it's easy to check and eliminate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'#3 is my guess, without a side photo to confirm it. This is a photo of the difference between worn and unworn pulleys. Keep in mind, this is an extreme difference, and yours don't need to look this bad to cause your problem. &lt;strong&gt;Edit: After new photos, there is some wear, but not enough to cause the issue.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iYzUt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Worn derailleur pulleys&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A worn chain is easy to check. Use the Park tool gauge or a similar tool to measure the wear. On that gauge, to see this issue, I would expect close to 1mm of wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A worn cassette is usually preceded by a worn chain, so if your chain is badly worn, you may need to change the cassette as well. Worst case, you may need new chain rings as well, but that is less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edited to include troubleshooting steps and conclusion:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After talking through the issue with Stephen, and looking at new and more direct photos, it is clear that the derailleur cage or body is misaligned, as discussed in option #1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is pulley wear as discussed in option #3, but not to a major degree. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can follow the logic in the comments below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Derailleur hanger is confirmed straight by my own DAG. Cage might be twisted. I'll check, and upload a pic with a dead-on shot. It's carbon fiber, though — will CF bend? No sticky chain links. I'll put a new chain on to rule out #2 and #4, though. How would a worn cassette cause the issue, given that this is happening before the chain enters the cassette? – Stephen Touset 42 mins ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A worn cassette can cause the chain to be out of line with the derailleur slightly. It's less likely, but possible. That's why it's at the end of the list. – zenbike♦ 34 mins ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A CF derailleur cage isn't likely bent, but the derailleur body might be. In the photo, it looks twisted to the outside, so check whether the pulleys run parallel to the cogs when there is no chain on it. Only your outer plate in carbon.If the inner plate is bent or twisted, the CF plate has enough give to move with it. – zenbike♦ 32 mins ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More pics uploaded. In the rear pic, the chain on the bottom derailleur looks a bit to the right, but this seems to be that the chain is just pushed all the way to one side of the teeth. There is about +/- 3˚–5˚ of play in the jockeys. Normal? – Stephen Touset 21 mins ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actually, the play is normal, especially in th upper pulley. But that derailleur cage is not aligned correctly. The cog of the gear it's in, and both pulleys should make a straight line, as perfectly vertical as possible. In that photo, ignoring the chain, the upper pulley is twisted slightly toward the frame, and the lower is even farther out of line. It is still possible that it is the angle of the photo, but it doesn't appear to be. You're also showing wear on the derailleur pulleys, if not nearly as bad as in the photo I posted. I'd say it's time for a new rear dérailleur. The cage itself should be parallel to the cogs, and that isn't the case either. – zenbike♦ 13 mins ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One question: Have you recently disassembled the derailleur? Is there more float side to side in the lower pulley than in the upper? – zenbike♦ 8 mins ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No to disassembly. Much more float in the upper pulley than the lower. Looks like you're right with the alignment. New derailleur time. Anything I can do in the meantime to minimize the chance of problems this weekend? As in, what should I try and bend to correct the misalignment as best I can? – Stephen Touset 8 mins ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ok. Well, you can try to bend the cage back in to alignment. If you take the photo you posted last, and lay a ruler through the cogs, it should pass through the points of the teeth of both pulleys. That's the goal. If its the derailleur body, trying to bend it back may make it worse, but given the problems you have, I'd try. Worst case, hit your LBS for a new one before the race. – zenbike♦ 3 mins ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thanks a bunch. If you'll edit your answer to include the latest conclusions, I'll be glad to accept. – Stephen Touset 1 min ago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-13T05:28:08.743" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T05:28:08.743" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2012-04-13T04:23:49.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;meguires quick detail car shine is a fine product. Also you could wet clay bar to get rid of the small stuck on grime. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T04:23:49.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4025" CreationDate="2012-04-13T06:06:05.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two different questions here. The first one, which is what should you use to clean and polish carbon without damaging it, it what most every one here is answering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real answer is, you can use just about anything. Pledge, Bike Lust, Turtle Wax, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.storck-bicycle.de/en/web0.asp?ID=4082&amp;amp;sub=4000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Storck's Carbo'Coat Polish&lt;/a&gt;. It doesn't matter, as long as there's a wax base, and no abrasives in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fill the fine cracking in your clear coat caused by UV exposure, you do need to go outside the bike industry. Use detailing clay, like that made by Meguiar's. Their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/343/Mild-Overspray-Clay/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mild Overspray Detailing Clay&lt;/a&gt; works very well to remove race stickers, adhesive residue, tree sap, etc.. which you need to do to prepare the surface before using something like their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/349/Swirl-Remover-20/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Swirl Remover 2&lt;/a&gt; to remove the surface scratches and cracking. You can do this with a rag, by hand. You don't need to use a buffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rdm5l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Detailing Clay&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mvAOS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swirl and scratch remover&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swirl Remover uses a very fine abrasive effect. Used badly, it can damage your paint, but if you read and follow the directions, it's like magic. Just use with care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DO NOT USE IT ON A MATTE FINISH FRAME.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will polish up a shine on the matte clear coat, and many UD carbon matte frames don't have much clear coat to begin with. You could expose the carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T06:06:05.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8903" CreationDate="2012-04-13T13:19:23.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beware of helmets that have other than smooth plastic surfaces.&#xA;I don't know if there is any scientific evidence for it but my practical sense tells me that a helmet with cloth surface (like yakkay helmets) can lead to extra injury in the case of an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases you tend to slide on your helmet when you crash on the street/bike lane and if your helmet is covered with a materiel that tends to have higher friction than the standard plastic shell your neck must bear the extra forces that are generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T13:19:23.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8903" CreationDate="2012-04-13T19:48:14.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ribcap.ch/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ribcap&lt;/a&gt; is another alternative helmet which does not have a hard shell, but a semi-flexible material which hardens on impact. Traditionally, this was used for snowboarding, but it is now being promoted for cycling use.  However, I wouldn't trust this as much as a standard cycling helmet, it would offer more protection than going without a helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ribcap.ch/images/sized/media/collection/ribcap_jackson_red_big_2-530x410.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a Ribcap helmet http://www.ribcap.ch/images/sized/media/collection/ribcap_jackson_red_big_2-530x410.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="3644" LastEditDate="2012-06-29T10:11:00.520" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T10:11:00.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8903" CreationDate="2012-04-13T19:53:14.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bernunlimited.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bern&lt;/a&gt; makes less 'sporty' helmets such as the BERKELEY for women and the BRENTWOOD for men which may be slightly more ventilated than other options.  However, a traditional cycling helmet with lots of ventilation is probably going to be much cooler, unless you're doing very casual riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bernunlimited.com/assets/products/Womens_Helmet/summer12/berkeley/main-berkeley-atlantic.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Berkeley helmet http://www.bernunlimited.com/assets/products/Womens_Helmet/summer12/berkeley/main-berkeley-atlantic.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="3644" LastEditDate="2012-06-29T10:10:52.610" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T10:10:52.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8996" CreationDate="2012-04-13T20:26:32.617" Score="14" ViewCount="12100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought Nickel Anti-Seize to prevent any corrosion issues between metals, and I generally like using it on my vehicles on bolts and anything I plan on removing later. I'm wondering where it would be appropriate for me to use Anti-Seize instead of grease on my bicycle, and where it would be considered a 'no-no.' The nickel type is very corrosion resistant, and temperature resistant to 2400 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current thinking would be along these lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Desirable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threaded Headset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Bracket Threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly on seatpost?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cantilever brake mounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disc brake pivot points?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threads on QR skewers / seatpost clamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other bolt threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maybe ???&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset Bearings ???&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Bracket Bearings ???&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hub Bearings ???&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inside fork tubes ??? (I have prothane grease because I have elastomers, but perhaps in spring forks it might be ok)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain (probably a bad idea, chain lube seems specially formulated and much thinner)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke nipples (need loctite or nipple prep in this case, don't want the nipples to loosen)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what I'm really asking here is, can I use it like grease in my hubs, bottom bracket, and headset? It doesn't really harden, and is rather lubricative, so what would happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nickel Anti-Seize Data Sheet: &lt;a href=&quot;https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/E898A939BCCBDBFE882571870000DBC5/%24File/NICASL-EN.pdf&quot;&gt;.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T03:06:48.780" Title="Using Anti Seize in place of Grease" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8995" CreationDate="2012-04-13T23:20:44.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no simple rule that says here is ok but here is not.You don't want to use it on any bearings as the lube.I have used on bearing races at the mating surface,where the race presses into the frame.You can use it on the seat tube,crank arms are ok but not the crank arm bolts. Use it pretty much any place metal parts are pressed together.You want to avoid the threads of critical fasteners as it can allow them to loosen over time.On quick release skewers antisieze on the shaft is ok,but avoid the threaded portion.Also avoid the clamp sections of the stem,you want a tight grip between the stem and the bars and the stem and the steerer tube.I guess the easiest way to think about where to use is any place that has a close tolerence fit that is subject to corrosion but in everyday use doesn't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T23:20:44.490" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8995" CreationDate="2012-04-14T07:03:21.127" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anti-sieze is a corrosion preventer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not a lubricant. Generally, using it on threaded parts is acceptable, but using it on bearing races, bearings, pressfit installation points, seatposts, handlebar stems, etc... is not a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no hard and fast rule, but if you think about the purpose of the &quot;lubricant&quot; on the specific part, you should be able to make a good judgement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. &quot;Do I need lubrication for this part to move smoothly and work efficiently? If so, I should use grease.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Do I need lubrication for this part to so that it is not stuck in the frame later? If so, I could use anti-sieze.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T07:03:21.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9001" CreationDate="2012-04-14T08:14:35.920" Score="12" ViewCount="16975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icelord.net/bike/thebicyclewheel.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Bicycle Wheel&lt;/a&gt; by Jobst Brandt, and I'm reading all of the issues with offsetting the rear rim toward the drive side of the hub...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Asymmetry in a rear wheel built for a multispeed gear cluster makes it weaker&#xA;  against side loads coming from the right side. This means that the wheel bends&#xA;  to the left more easily than the right. The greater the offset, the weaker the&#xA;  wheel. In order to reduce offset for six-, seven- and eight-speed clusters, hubs&#xA;  have been built with narrower flange spacing. Although they reduce the&#xA;  disparity in tension between left-side and right-side spokes, they weaken the&#xA;  wheel against lateral forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm curious, why is it the standard to do so? Why not center the rim to the hub just like the front, and then offset the frame's drive side rear triangle to accomodate the difference? It may shift the chain line a bit, but this doesn't seem like anything that challenging to adjust for. The strength and durability benefits are huge, and the only downside I can see is that you couldn't arbitrarily change rear hub widths (not that it seems they change that often anyway), or you may have to introduce the offset again. Why don't bicycle manufacturers start doing this instead? Do they make frames that you can use a rear wheel built with the rim centered on the rear hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rear Wheel Offset --&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://4.bp.blogspot.com/_12U2yyNOfC8/SVBBbkrTChI/AAAAAAAAACk/qws7HSe5ZUA/s400/offset.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear Wheel Offset&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.127" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T16:41:42.247" Title="Why offset the rear rim to the hub and not the hub in the frame?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8870" CreationDate="2012-04-14T08:31:57.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went down to a LBS in Minneapolis, The Shockspital, and had a long conversation with a guy that had lots of spare parts, elastomers, springs, and lots of wisdom. He's done many elastomer-spring conversions, and here's how I'm setting it up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom larger elastomers that handled the load are being replaced with 5&quot; of spring, with an elastomer inside of them providing a small amount of rebound damping by resisting the rebound of the spring, and some compression damping after 40% of the spring is compressed (the yellow elastomers on the rods in the picture). It's the long spring in the picture which will be cut and ground into two 5&quot; segments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top smaller elastomers that provide the rebound force and compression damping are being replaced with an all-weather elastomer, all in once 6&quot; piece (the purple elastomers on the rods at the top).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I ordered Prothane polyurethane/urethane safe grease to coat the elastomers, rods, and fork internals with to prevent stiction. All in all, this should be a very responsive fork with some interesting characteristics, that will be a bit on the stiffer side of things for my weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, he's tried many times with the McMasters-Carr tubing, and it REALLY sucks. It's far too soft to be of any use in forks. It's made of a completely different material (I tried drilling out a piece of it, which didn't work at all and left black slime in my hand). Don't bother with it. I may have been able to use it in this case, because I'm adding a spring and have elastomers resisting compression in two places, but it's not worth the hassle and doesn't have the same type of characteristics of MCU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XiTmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rebuilding AntiGravity Fork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T08:31:57.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8776" CreationDate="2012-04-14T08:41:39.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Resolution:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered the 6061-T6 aluminum, and compared it with an aluminum steer tube and I clearly saw the internal difference of the butting. I would have also needed to lathe a groove into the tubing for the shims that surround it for the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, however, I found someone at a LBS that had some Anti-Gravs in back and sold me a steel threadless steer tube ready to rock for it, so I've abandoned the aluminum retrofit. It does look that in this case, because of the surrounding shims, I could have pressed/hammered some 0.995&amp;quot; OD steel tubing up the bottom of it (like they did on the steel ones) and been fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, I really appreciate this design. I realize that it may be some extra weight to have the two bolts, but given the pain in the ass of having too short a steer tube in a threadless system, making fork swaps painful, I would gladly take the weight hit for the ability to replace the steerer tube only, not half the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Anti-Gravity forks accommodated both 1 1/8&amp;quot; threaded and threadless, and 1 1/4&amp;quot; systems with this design (and possibly 1&amp;quot; systems as well). Outdated, but I appreciate their thinking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T08:41:39.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8998" CreationDate="2012-04-14T12:27:24.457" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest functional reason actually would be chain line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could make the hub shell wider, and run an offset dropout to allow the space for the gears, but then you would have to run a similar offset on the bottom bracket to maintain a usable chain line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running the offset on the bottom bracket would affect Q factor positioning on many riders, and while some riders like or need additional stance width, most do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because a change like this requires such a radical redesign of pretty much every bicycle component, it would require a consensus from the entire range of bike manufacturers to be put into practical or wide spread use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could call it tradition, but I think momentum would be more accurate. The existing body of design work would need to radically change to accommodate something like this, and that is a lot of &quot;mass&quot; to shift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since existing wheel structures and designs are working for riders as is, most companies choose to stay within the range of difference that allows the bike frame and other component designs to be affected as little as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, there is no guarantee that an offset design would work in practice, and the benefit to it isn't major, given that existing designs work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T12:27:24.457" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9061" CreationDate="2012-04-14T21:20:58.953" Score="1" ViewCount="26615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to get a bike computer, primarily for the speedometer function. I use my bike on a trainer most of the time, and I'd like to get &quot;speed&quot; from that, so the sensor needs to be on the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer not to spend too much, but my budget is pretty high. Right now, the only feature I want is speed, but I'll learn to use any other useful features. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5145/wired-or-wireless-bike-computer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question, and gotten some interesting data, but I don't really care about whether the unit is wired or wireless. It just needs to reach the back wheel and be reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3875" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T13:37:56.993" Title="What bike computer (speedometer) to get for mounting on the rear wheel?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9012" CreationDate="2012-04-14T21:37:51.397" Score="2" ViewCount="1299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding my hard tail on the road for the last 3 years on some knobbly 26 x 2.1 tyres. After just starting a new job and with the need to commute further I am considering purchasing some slicks, however I do not know how best to decide on which tyre to choose. What width should I be going down to and what kind of tread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the look of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/continental-sportcontact-city-mtb-tyre-and-tube-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/continental-sportcontact-city-mtb-tyre-and-tube-set&lt;/a&gt; but they also come in two widths, is it the thinner the better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3361" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T03:21:03.847" Title="How to choose a set of tyres" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9013" CreationDate="2012-04-14T23:21:03.733" Score="3" ViewCount="6135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say the current setup uses a zero offset seatpost, and a 100mm stem.  If the seatpost were replaced another seatpost that has a 20mm offset, should offset be subtracted from the stem length?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current situation is for a road/cross frame, dunno how important that is to the topic vs mountain/etc frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T03:27:36.443" Title="Bike Setup: Correlation between seatpost offset and stem length?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9009" CreationDate="2012-04-14T23:54:38.123" Score="2" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am willing to buy some cycling gloves from an online store, but can't seem to find any details about the sizes. They range from S to XXL, but how do I know which best fits my hands? If it helps, I am willing to buy the Cube Teamline gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3814" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T18:53:54.437" Title="Cycling gloves sizes" Tags="&lt;gloves&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9006" CreationDate="2012-04-15T01:31:38.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe they provide a sizing chart online, where you can measure around your hands at the knuckle and determine the appropriate glove size.  Otherwise, you might be better off buying gloves locally, so you can try them on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1648" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T01:31:38.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9006" CreationDate="2012-04-15T01:55:17.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are somethings that are best bought localy.The variation in sizes of shoes,gloves and helmets between brands makes trial fitting almost a necessity.Some online sellers do a better job than others of helping you decide if someones product runs true to size.Contact the sellers customer service department for guidance. If they have product ratings check them as it is often the reason for comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T01:55:17.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9006" CreationDate="2012-04-15T02:01:07.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try some other gloves in a store, to see what size fits you on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. in a shirt I'm a medium or a large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I bought my gloves in a store, after looking at the whole range on display, and trying on a few of them for feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They 'fit me like a glove'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was looking for winter gloves (with full-length fingers and an inner lining, which are more difficult to fit that finger-less gloves are), in an outdoor sports store with a cycling-clothing department, I found a great variation in the quality of the design, and in the quality of the manufacturing (i.e. the stitching).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most I tried were not comfortable. I chose the best for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-04-15T14:41:37.353" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T14:41:37.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9005" CreationDate="2012-04-15T03:01:51.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The seatpost setback has nothing to do with the stem.  Set the seat to the same distance behind the bottom bracket that you had on the other seatpost.  Problem is, it may not be possible, which would mean your position won't be right now.  (Unless you are deliberately changing your bike fit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3675" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T03:01:51.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9003" CreationDate="2012-04-15T03:16:41.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best single sensor, rear wheel mounted computers are made by Garmin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Edge 500 or Edge 800 are amazing, if a bit pricey. They do have pretty much every feature you could want in a cyclometer, and an easy to mount, stable, &lt;strong&gt;rear wheel only&lt;/strong&gt; sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T13:38:06.243" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T13:38:06.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9004" CreationDate="2012-04-15T03:21:03.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, for a MTB hard tail, a 26 x 1.25 tire is the narrowest comfortable tire to ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is narrow enough to provide significant benefit to speed and rolling resistance, but not so narrow as to increase the probability of flats and rim damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The continental tires you linked are a good choice. I would probably do the 26 x 1.3 version of that tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T03:21:03.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9005" CreationDate="2012-04-15T03:27:36.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saddle setback is a fixed position for each rider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is necessary to place the saddle in the position which places your knee in alignment with the pedal spindle, when at the correct saddle height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arbitrarily changing the saddle setback can interfere with a proper fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should set your saddle height, then fore/aft position to align your knee correctly, then choose a stem length that makes the saddle position reasonably comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the 20mm setback post is necessary to align your knee, then, yes, you may need to subtract that extra distance from your stem. But that will leave you with a very short stem in this case, which will affect how the bike handles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect that if that change is necessary, you are on the wrong frame size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T03:27:36.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9016" CreationDate="2012-04-15T05:41:28.137" Score="2" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new bike about 6 months ago with SRAM Force on it.  It's my first time riding SRAM and I love it except for one thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm climbing and my RD is shifted all the way up ( to 28-tooth ) and I try and downshift further, it allows me to click once and stops the 2nd click so I get an upshift instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3877" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T01:53:15.467" Title="SRAM force rear shifts go in the wrong direction when on largest cassette" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9017" CreationDate="2012-04-15T06:31:30.710" Score="3" ViewCount="2963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just took apart my old wheelset which let some delightful snaps out as I loosened the nipples that were seized to the rims. I'm wondering what the benefits would be of a small amount of anti-seize or lithium/dry graphite lubricant on the outside of the nipples where they contact the eyelets of the rims. I realize I wouldn't want it on the spoke threads, because I don't want them to come loose, so I'll be using Wheelsmith spoke prep which acts as loctite on the spoke threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, would it be of any consequence to have some anti-seize / lubricant around the nipples? It would prevent any corrosion between the metals, and also allow easier truing, and the nipples can slide past the eyelets better before the loctite sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that the added friction between the nipple and eyelets is beneficial, though, and this might help the nipples loosen even with the spoke prep / loctite solution. Anyone tried it, or have some wisdom???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-10-06T01:28:54.050" Title="Oil/Anti-seize on outside of nipple when building a wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9014" CreationDate="2012-04-15T08:55:44.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your rear derailleur is in the 28t cog, there is only one click available, because shifting to the next (non-existent) cog would put your chain in your wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the way the Double Tap levers work, the first click will release to the next gear down, either 27t or 26t depending on your cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing to fix. This is proper behavior for this group set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T08:55:44.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9015" CreationDate="2012-04-15T08:57:09.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lubricating the eyelet with oil, and the spoke threads with Spoke prep or linseed oil is recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anti seize is not lubricant. It should not be used in this capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T08:57:09.390" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9186" CreationDate="2012-04-15T09:03:33.220" Score="1" ViewCount="2565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have access to the Wheelsmith Rim Rod ERD measurement tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to reproduce this no longer manufactured tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I need the length of the yellow portion of each rod, the diameter of the yellow portion of each rod, and the length and diameter of the alloy portion of the rod. Bonus points for the angle of the nipple seat at the join of the alloy portion and the yellow portion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y86DE.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wheelsmith Rim Rods&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T21:05:22.747" Title="Exact dimensions for Wheelsmith Rim Rods?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9018" CreationDate="2012-04-15T09:34:57.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why bother? There's 5 sets on eBay right now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&amp;amp;_nkw=wheelsmith%20rim%20rod&amp;amp;_sacat=See-All-Categories&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wheelsmith Rim Rods on eBay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T09:34:57.330" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8907" CreationDate="2012-04-15T13:00:11.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use steel wool, or preferably brass wool. Both will take out flecks and rust. The benefit of brass wool is that any left on the wheel will not rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T13:00:11.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-15T13:26:54.700" Score="5" ViewCount="3472" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does a cyclocomputer actually measure for calculating the speed of the bike? &#xA;Is it the time for one revolution $T$ or is it the number of revolutions $n$ per given time $t_0$?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the radius of the wheel is $R$ then you get the speed of the bike $v$ by &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$v = 2 \pi R /T$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the first case and by &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$v = 2\pi R n/t_0$ in the second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might seem to be a tiny difference, but I am really interested in this detail. Hope someone could clarify this and give some references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3878" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-15T14:52:49.883" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T07:44:39.680" Title="What does a cyclocomputer actually measure for calculating the speed of the bike?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;technology&gt;&lt;physics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9021" CreationDate="2012-04-15T13:52:09.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cyclometer measures the number of revolutions, and multiplies it by the outside circumference of the wheel and tire, (or a close approximation of it, depending on how it was set up by the user) to get the distance ridden for a given period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying the conversion formula to KMH or MPH is all that's left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the circumference of the wheel in millimeters, ideally using &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cyclecomputer-calibration.html#rollout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rollout method described here&lt;/a&gt;. Convert the millimetric measurement of the wheel to inches by dividing by 25.4. (25.4mm = 1 inch) Divide by 12 to get circumference in feet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calculate wheel revolutions per mile by dividing 5,280 by the tire&#xA;circumference in feet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calculate the speed per minute by dividing the wheel speed by the&#xA;tire revolutions per mile. For example, if the wheel speed is 300&#xA;rpm, the example tire is moving at 0.446 miles per minute.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiply the miles per minute speed times 60 to convert the speed to&#xA;miles per hour (mph).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Multiply by 1.609344 to get speed in KPH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel Circumference = 2105mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2105 / 25.4 = 82.8740157 inches circ.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;82.8740157 inches circ. / 12 = 6.90616798 feet circ.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5280 / 6.90616798 feet circ. = 764.533967 wheel revolutions to travel&#xA;one mile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;350 RPM / 764.533967 = .45779523 miles per minute&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;.45779523 miles per minute x 60 = &lt;strong&gt;27.4677135 Miles Per Hour&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;27.4677135 Miles Per Hour x 1.609344 = 44.205 Kilometers per hour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example &quot;350&quot; is a variable which the cyclometer counts using a magnetic sensor. Most cyclometers refresh the calculation between once per second and once per 5 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mathforum.org/library/drmath/view/60367.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Good mathematical explanation here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-15T14:52:12.753" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T14:52:12.753" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9024" CreationDate="2012-04-15T15:47:33.400" Score="3" ViewCount="430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some irritating Long-Shen rear dropouts (deep semi-circular lips around the outside) which are causing problems with fitting a Sturmey-Archer SRF5W internally geared hub.  I would like to shift the axle from the left to the right and would like to know if this sort of lateral adjustment is even possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/aw.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon's instructions for dissassembly&lt;/a&gt; and am loathe to take the hub apart unless it's even theoretically possible that it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone had any experience with SA hubs in doing this?  I have about 1cm spare on the left that I'd like to have available on the right by shifting the whole hub body over to the left.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3879" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T18:34:16.907" Title="Sturmey Archer SRF5W lateral axle adjustment" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9023" CreationDate="2012-04-15T16:25:50.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmmm, I think I &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be able to answer my own question with a negative.   After browsing some more I found Aaron Goss's post about stripping down a very similar hub.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rideyourbike.com/images/internalgear/xrd5w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The axle has a raised portion in the center&lt;/a&gt; which would prevent lateral movement.....  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to have to figure out something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps just sourcing a longer axle.&#xA;EDIT: Unfortunately I have the longest axle available (see p.56 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sturmey-archer.com/userfiles/catalogs/Sturmey-Archer-2012-2013-Catalogue-A0-Low-Res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;S.A. catalogue 2012-2013&lt;/a&gt;, which indicates 175mm is max axle length)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively having a framebuilder cut the dropouts off and replacing them with something saner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Or perhaps bodging up a replacement for the fulcrum arm with it's integrated locating washer ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sturmey-archer.com/userfiles/catalogs/Sturmey-Archer-2012-2013-Catalogue-A0-Low-Res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HSJ905 on p.41 of catalogue&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3879" LastEditorDisplayName="user3879" LastEditDate="2012-04-15T18:34:16.907" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T18:34:16.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9027" CreationDate="2012-04-15T18:38:47.900" Score="0" ViewCount="947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked a similar question related to slipping gears here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5855/slipping-gears-on-new-electra-townie-8i&quot;&gt;Slipping gears on new Electra Townie 8i&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but now I no longer get slipping, but clicking noise when the pedals are rotated either forward or backward direction, but not when coasting and the pedals are not moving.  When in low gear, the clicking is faster and slower in high gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this clicking be the chain clicking on the sprockets of the gears?  What is the source of this noise and how can I fix it?  My other Townie 8i does not have this noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2308" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T18:57:14.413" Title="Clicking gears on new Electra Townie 8i" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9080" CreationDate="2012-04-15T18:55:00.470" Score="1" ViewCount="1212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a way to bodge a S.-A. SRF5(W) hub onto a bike with difficult dropouts.  There are two main problems (looking at step 6 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.com/Instructions/Sturmey_Archer/Sturmey_Archer_X_RD5_Hub_Instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this diagram&lt;/a&gt; and also at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sturmey-archer.com/userfiles/catalogs/Sturmey-Archer-2012-2013-Catalogue-A0-Low-Res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these part pictures p.15,41&lt;/a&gt; will aid in understanding this description, should you care to do so):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem 1: The axle is a bit too short to take all the washers and nuts on the right-hand (drive) side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem 2: The bend in the fulcrum arm is not sharp enough to get around the lips of the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution 1: get rid of the fulcrum arm (see link 2, pg. 41) and just use the locating washer (I think I can probably prang it off with a cold-chisel).  I could then cut the fulcrum arm bend off and attach the straight piece with clamps or somesuch to the chainstay.  As I understand it the fulcrum arm is not actually resisting rotational forces (that's done by the anti-rotation washers on the flat-sides axle), but instead is providing a place for the mounting of a barrel-adjuster screw to allow tuning of the shift lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution 2:  hope that someone is going to tell me that I can simply using Fitting Kit HFIS5.PHSV (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sturmey-archer.com/userfiles/catalogs/Sturmey-Archer-2012-2013-Catalogue-A0-Low-Res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;p.15&lt;/a&gt; ) which seems to magically replace the fulcrum arm, gear selector guid and g.s.g. protective cover with two simpler parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution 3:  try to get a thinner, more steep angled fulcrum lever machined for me ... or mock it up out of soft aluminum.  It &lt;strong&gt;LOOKS&lt;/strong&gt; as though it's only function is to provide a mounting point for the barrel adjuster screw (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.com/Instructions/Sturmey_Archer/Sturmey_Archer_X_RD5_Hub_Instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see 3.Gear Adjustment of link 1&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3879" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T14:06:45.027" Title="Replacing the fulcrum lever of a Sturmey-Archer hub with something else." Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9025" CreationDate="2012-04-15T18:57:14.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be many issues, but a click in the hub which is a rotary noise, is usually the Chain guard or the dust cap on the hub behind the cog which has popped out of place, or possibly cracked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is not detrimental to the safety of the bike, but you should find a shop that has experience repairing these hubs, and get them to do a rebuild. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T18:57:14.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8958" CreationDate="2012-04-15T19:12:09.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uTqX0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;thule trunk rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a Thule trunk-mounted rack. Typically used on sedans, but it also works on some (not all) hatchbacks and wagons. If you can mount one of these so that the top bar rests on the edge of the hatch, not on the glass, then it should work. But this might be a problem with your Focus - it has a sort of visor at the top of the rear window, right? That part is probably not designed to bear weight, so it wouldn't hold up at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look into roof-mounted racks if I were you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T19:12:09.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9018" CreationDate="2012-04-15T19:41:15.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this asks the answer, but having myself either handled high-precision instruments before, and fiddled with inner rim diameter myself, before, I would consider these things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if you HAD the instrument yourself, in your hands, It would be actually difficult to measure, annotate and manufacture the dimensions precisely. I think even if you take the original to a metal-machining shop, some precision would always be lost;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There would be no way to be sure anyone of us measure it right, even if we were most interested in this reverse engineering process (I am, for sure, but I don't have the tool unfortunately).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most times, reverse engineering is a process where reproducing the WORKING PRINCIPLE of a tool is much more important than reproducing the EXACT DIMENSIONS of the tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what I would suggest you to do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Study and understand exactely what is the working principle of this tool. It seems to me it is to fit rods with nipple-shaped endings inside diammetrically opposed holes in a rim, and then measure the distance between the two other endings of the known-sized rods, so you can know some key distance, that I would define as the distance between the flat parts of the nipple's head. Having a spoke ending there would allow for maximum thread contact without the spoke thread prodruding towards the tube, also with a comfortable tolerance of 1 or 2mm shorter spokes being perfectly useable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Considering this working principle, take the most similar things possible: actual spokes with glued nipples in the thread ends, and some precisely placed measuring zones in the elbow side:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The elbows themselves. You could tie them together, measure the distance, and add this distance to the already-known rod lengths;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some smart-shaped-object, like a piece of a metal ruler, rigidly fixed (glued?) in place of the elbow;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The naked tips of the wires after removing the elbows.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is done thoroughly, I think it is perfectly possible to achieve, with no great expense and no great work, a level of precision more than anough to build a wheel within the relatively loose tolerance allowed by spoke/nipple thread lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is not the answer for your question, but I think these considerations might be of your interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T19:41:15.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2012-04-15T20:02:25.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a tadpole TerraTrike Tour II Elite and I can't say enough about this particular design, make and model. I made myself keep going today, and was able to do 25.2 miles... my first time on the local bike path. What an exhilarating experience! I ended up at this page as I was curious if riding my tadpole is suppose to be easier than riding a conventional speed bike. A seasoned cyclist I met on the bike path commented that tadpoles are not faster. I know at one point she zoomed right by me, but then again, she is an avid bike rider... I am still green, just starting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking it through, it seemed at first that the Tadpole would be faster, but then when I considered that there's drag from two front wheels and a wider mass in the front of the tadpole, it almost seems to me as the effort to ride either would be about equal, all things considered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that's for certain is that the tadpole is far more comfortable for a middle-aged gal like me. I also enjoy being able to see clearly what's in front of me without straining my neck. There's 27 speeds, so going up hills seems much easier, but when cruising on the open trail the higher gears are much more of a physical workout than the 18 speed I use to ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend this model of tadpole. TerraTrike Rocks!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3883" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T20:02:25.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9021" CreationDate="2012-04-15T20:07:30.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think of a cyclocomputer as a hardwired combination of a calculator, a quartz-clock, and a dedicated CPU working with a buffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT TO A MORE PLAUSIBLE ALGORITHM:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Each time the magnet closes the reed-switch, a request is sent to the clock to capture a time-stamp, a time-stamped event is sent to a buffer, and the wheel circumference is added to the current distance and to the odometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time the CPU updates the current speed, it takes the first and last timestamped events from the buffer, calculates the distance (wheel circumference multiplied by number-of-events-minus-one) and divides by the calculated elapsed time (last timestamp minus first timestamp in the buffer), displaying the speed and clearing the buffer.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the persistently stored variables (current distance, maximum speed, etc.), the computer works with three temporary variables: LAST_TIME, TEMP_TIME and TEMP_DISTANCE, all of them set to zero. The present_time() function, related to the clock, is abstracted here as a resource readily available upon request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time the reed-switch closes contact, the computer performs the following operations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;TRIP_DISTANCE = TRIP_DISTANCE + WHEEL_CIRCUMFERENCE&#xA;if LAST_TIME is zero:&#xA;    LAST_TIME = present_time()&#xA;else:&#xA;    TEMP_TIME = TEMP_TIME + (present_time() - LAST_TIME)&#xA;    LAST_TIME = present_time()&#xA;    TEMP_DISTANCE = TEMP_DISTANCE + WHEEL_CIRCUMFERENCE&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time the computer refreshes the screen, it performs the following operations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;CURRENT_SPEED = TEMP_DISTANCE / TEMP_TIME&#xA;TEMP_TIME = TEMP_DISTANCE = 0&#xA;AVERAGE_SPEED = TRIP_DISTANCE / TRIP_TIME&#xA;if CURRENT_SPEED &amp;gt; MAXIMUM_SPEED:&#xA;    MAXIMUM_SPEED = CURRENT_SPEED&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, each time the auto-stop function is activated (when the bike is stopped):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;LAST_TIME = 0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these operations are not only trivial computationally speaking, but also almost realtime because thy are hardware-implemented in the integrated circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth considering two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the computer is working with auto-start / auto-stop function, if the wheel takes too long to complete a turn, the speed refresh function enters in pause mode;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most probably, these variables have a fixed-point/integer nature, that is, they have a maximum value. For the TEMP_TIME, which probably works on microssecond resolution, this might lead to variable overflow if too much time is elapsed between speed refreshes. That implies a minimum speed in order to work properly, depending on the memory size and number type of these variables in the integrated circuit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it is necessary that it counts the time between revolutions, not the number of revolutions during a fixed time interval, because time is a continuous (floating point) measure, and number of wheel turns is a discrete (integer) measure. If the second option would use, the speed would always be &quot;rounded&quot; to the nearest possible integer value, giving incorrect results except for very high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T04:00:33.700" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T04:00:33.700" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9038" CreationDate="2012-04-16T00:51:30.630" Score="77" ViewCount="24348" Body="&lt;p&gt;There has been an ongoing debate in my area's local newspaper, regarding biking with vs. against the flow of traffic. A recent incident in which a cyclist was hit from behind, and later died of his injuries, prompted a letter in which another local called for cyclists to bike opposing traffic, so that they could more easily see oncoming traffic and avoid it if a crash was imminent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experience, the law, and common sense all say that this is wrong &amp;mdash; one would &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that everyone knows you should ride with traffic because vehicular cycling is safer. That being said, the debate so far has been almost entirely focused on what the law says, and anecdotal evidence, which isn't enough to convince some people. Does anybody have any references to scientific studies showing actual data on the safety of riding with vs. against traffic? Explanations of &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; are welcome too, but please include some references or data. I'd like some sources that I can cite in a response showing that cycling with traffic is safer for &lt;em&gt;everyone&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T14:11:49.783" Title="Why is it safer to bike with traffic, instead of facing oncoming cars?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="32" FavoriteCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9033" CreationDate="2012-04-16T01:05:44.257" Score="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;For one thing, if you cycle with traffic the closing speed between car and bike is the DIFFERENCE in speed between the two.  If you're doing 20mph and the car is doing 45, the closing speed is 25.  Reverse it and the closing speed is 65 -- over twice as fast.  This affects the time the driver has to react to the cyclist's presence -- over twice as much time to see the cyclist, slow down, plan to pass, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing:  If you cycle with traffic and the car behind you does not have room to pass he need only slow down to your speed until the way is clear.  If you're riding against traffic there's no real option for him to slow down until it's clear to proceed.  In practical terms, this means that in the first case the driver will very likely wait until it's at least halfway safe to pass, while in the second case even a relatively tame, careful driver is apt to try to scoot past somehow, even if there is not safe clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, combining the two, if it's not safe to pass the driver can slow down just a little, from 45 to 35, say, and cut his closing speed to 15mph, giving him a much longer time to work out a passing strategy.  Going the other way, slowing 10mph reduces closing speed from 65 to 55, not a significant change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T01:05:44.257" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9033" CreationDate="2012-04-16T01:33:21.797" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, regarding the question asked: &quot;why is it safer etc.&quot; let's go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(already mentioned) The closing speed between a car coming from behind is much slower. He has more time to see you before overtaking, and if you need to cross, you can signal your turn, so he can slow down for you to pass;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By the same reasons, you can flow with traffic, take the lane, merge in and out, overtake, etc. only when riding with the flow;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedestrians always look up the street for oncoming cars. If you ride the opposite way, there will be lots of pedestrians literally jumping in front of you;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At night, there is a convention of bright white light front, not-so-bright red lights rear. If you ride against the flow, you obfuscate drivers and they obfuscate you with the lights' flares;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(already mentioned) Bicycles are vehicles, so the direction of a street is, by definition, the same for motorized vehicles and bicycles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The air displacement effect on the balance of bike riders, and also on indirect &quot;drafting&quot;, has a much greater negative effect if the biker rides against the main flow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, this whole discussion is pointless, but I think these are the most important reasons.&#xA;Also, the very proposal of bikes riding that way BECAUSE a cyclist was hit by an automobile is the most cruel and typical exemple of &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.copenhagenize.com/2009/10/sacred-bull-in-societys-china-shop.html&quot;&gt;Ignoring the Bull&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. Have any of the people approaching this problem in your town considered to put the responsability in such accidents on the drivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps, and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T01:33:21.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9014" CreationDate="2012-04-16T01:53:15.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have SRAM Force on my road bike. If I attempt to downshift, and am in my largest cog, the first click will upshift as expected. But if I press in farther, as if attempting to engage a downshift, it will cancel the upshift but resist pushing the lever further, resulting in no shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the exact analogue of trying to upshift the front derailleur when already in the highest gear. If your shifters don't work like this... I'm not sure what to say. Take it to a mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T01:53:15.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9033" CreationDate="2012-04-16T09:54:21.930" Score="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclinglife.com/Library/riskfactors.htm&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; which has some statistics on accidents involving wrong-way cycling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f6gyc.png&quot; alt=&quot;table&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Table 4 shows that all categories of &lt;strong&gt;bicyclists traveling against the direction of traffic flow are at greatly increased risk for accidents—on average 3.6 times the risk of those traveling with traffic&lt;/strong&gt;, and as high as 6.6 times for those 17 and under. This result is readily explained: because motorists normally scan for traffic traveling in the lawful direction, wrong-way traffic is easily overlooked. To give only a single example, a motorist turning right at an intersection scans to the left for approaching traffic on the new road, and cannot see or anticipate a fast-moving wrong-way bicyclist approaching from the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T09:54:21.930" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9033" CreationDate="2012-04-16T15:52:59.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.safetycamera.org/30mph&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Safety Camera&lt;/a&gt;, Hit someone at 40mph and there's an 80% chance they'll die, hit them at 30mph and there's an 80% chance they'll live. See the previous answers regarding closing speed of riding a bike into oncoming traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This statistic is widely cited as the reason the posted speed limit in NYC is 30mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3892" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T15:52:59.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9033" CreationDate="2012-04-16T17:01:51.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a distinction be made between highway/rural riding and city riding? I have little experience in large city riding, but I grew up in the sparsely populated Upper Peninsula of Michigan, and find it rather 'common sense' to ride against traffic on two lane highways with shoulders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When traffic is whizzing past you at 55-70 MPH, it's very unnerving to not see them until they've already passed you, and startling when the wind attempts to blow you over with little warning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Traffic that attempts to 'pull over' would be coming right into your ass end, and you'd have no way of knowing without mirrors. I've been nearly hit twice like this before I switched.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;By being able to see the car and their position, it is easy to tell if they are drunk/texting/swerving (which is rather common) before they get near you, and quick to turn into the gravel / down the embankment to avoid them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As far as the 'additive speed' argument, you're screwed anyway at highway speeds. Even if you're riding at 20 MPH, most the traffic is ~65 MPH - so 45 MPH blind and oblivious or 85 MPH with a chance to dodge or bail off your bike&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Without a mirror, an attentive and responsible bicyclist could get hit by an incompetent / pulling over driver riding 'with' the grain. However, in an 'against' scenario, both drivers have the ability to avoid the collision, and both would have to be not paying attention for a collision to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're confining this to city/urban riding only, that's fair - I just wanted to give some rationale behind the opposing view in certain situations (sorry I don't have any statistics). However, the statistics I see and safety guidelines seem to be from a densely populated/urban point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T21:10:11.820" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T21:10:11.820" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-16T17:27:55.367" Score="5" ViewCount="7206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was browsing some time trial videos on YouTube and came across a video on saddle shuffling, and I've been noticing that I do the same saddle shuffle a lot when riding hard.  Did not really know it was a problem until I saw a &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/2sYUfzHzYaU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; about it.  Is this common among riders?  My seat is correctly positioned too and it's perfectly level. I wonder how common this is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/2sYUfzHzYaU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To anyone who can't see the video:&lt;/em&gt; The problem is that a rider will, over time, shuffle forward on the saddle as they ride, every so often pushing themselves back so they're squarely on the saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; About me:  I'm 5'6 about 145lb and ride a Specialized &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCProduct.jsp?spid=62277&amp;amp;scid=1101&amp;amp;scname=Road&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Allez Apex&lt;/a&gt;. I use clipless pedals and have received a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3549/bike-fitting-experiences&quot;&gt;BG Bike Fit&lt;/a&gt;. The bike size is a 52.  I would consider myself an aggresive rider.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; So I thought I would update you with some tweaks I've done so far. I went to my LBS and purchased a shorter stem so I'm not leaning forward as much. I also measured my seat and myself &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/specs/spec.jsp?speccode=bodygeometrysaddles&amp;amp;tablewidth=400&amp;amp;cellwidth=350&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(sit bones)&lt;/a&gt; and it showed that my seat was too narrow, though, I have been measured before and have always been told the seat was good (my other two bikes were the same). I was suggested to try the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=64276&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Romin&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=64272&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Avatar&lt;/a&gt; saddles. The look of the Romin seems like it will keep me from moving forward as much. I plan on testing the seats out in a trainer and around town. Thanks for all the suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:51:51.863" Title="Why do I do the &quot;saddle shuffle&quot; when riding?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9045" CreationDate="2012-04-16T18:39:21.803" Score="9" ViewCount="37458" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little mishap happened today during cleaning my bicycle. I tried to take off the sprocket wheel for easier access, but instead I opened the lock nut of the hub (cassette type) and the balls came out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I can put this mess back together I got some questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of lubricant/grease do I need for the ball bearings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are two ball bearings in the wheel. One with smaller balls (the one on the sprocket wheel side), the other has bigger balls. Former used some black grease while the latter used a green, jelly-ish one. I'm confused, do they need different types of grease?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To solve my initial task: How would you get the sprocket wheel off of the wheel/hub/cassette? Does this require a special tool? I tried pulling, but I'm afraid to break something when pulling too hard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3895" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T09:26:09.860" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T14:57:00.040" Title="Which lubricant/grease to use for ball bearings?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9046" CreationDate="2012-04-16T19:05:14.300" Score="0" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;See images &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/ud1Xa#0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bar the new Tioga saddle is mounted on is a bit thicker than the one the original (terrible) saddle is mounted on and won't fit as is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can take the old saddle off its bar no problem but it seems like the new saddle's bar can't be removed without removing the clamp.  The nut with a slot for an Allen key (it's actually not, it's slightly bigger than a certain Allen key size) is unbelievably solid; it will not budge, which leads me to believe it's not intended to be opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took out the metal bottom inside of the plastic bar with an Allen key.  Insides there's a removable spring and deep inside (inside the plastic) it looks like there's another thing to be opened with an Allen key but it's hard to tell.  Even if it was, I don't know what kind of tool is able to open something like that down a shaft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a lot of other pointless things, including heating up an Allen key so it would expand enough to fit properly; I'm pretty desperate at this stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Do saddles vary for different size slots (i.e. different bikes)?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Is it possible at all to fit this saddle?  If so, how can it be done?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3541" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T19:25:19.390" Title="Is it possible to fit this Tioga Mc Groove saddle on my bicycle?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9043" CreationDate="2012-04-16T19:13:42.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, to remove a cassette freehub does require a specific tool. The Park Tool version is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/cassette-lockring-tool-fr-5&quot;&gt;the FR-5&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need for more than one kind of grease. Use any &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/polylube-1000-lubricant-tube-ppl-1&quot;&gt;light bearing grease&lt;/a&gt; like the Park Poly Lube 1000. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a good set of instructions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment&quot;&gt;here on how to do the rebuild&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Park Tool's repair help site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub Overhaul and Adjustment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful Tools and Supplies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cone wrenches, see DCW and SCW series wrenches. Always use the smallest size that fits.&#xA;Bench vise and axle vise AV-1, or AV-4. Holds wheel secure for easier work.&#xA;Combination wrenches to fit, or adjustable wrench&#xA;Pencil Magnet&#xA;Grease, Park Tool Polylube® 1000&#xA;Wire ties&#xA;Solvent, such as CB-2 Citrus ChainBrite&#xA;Rags&#xA;Hub Overhaul and Adjustment&#xA;This article will discuss the adjustment and overhaul of &quot;cup-and-cone&quot; hubs. These hubs allow for access to internal bearings, and are adjustable. See related article for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freehub Service.&#xA;Bicycle hubs may be either the adjustable cup-and-cone type or the non-adjustable cartridge style. The adjustable type bearing surfaces can be adjusted for bearing play. The cartridge types typically cannot be adjusted for wear or play. Both types can come in either the freehub type or the thread-on freewheel style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A basic bearing system is seen below. The cup is normally a permanent press fit into the hub shell. The cone traps the ball bearing. The locknut is tightened against the cone to prevent the cone from moving. If there is looseness from bearing play, the cone can be move closer to the cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modern freehubs tend to be more complex. The hub will have a freehub mechanism attached to the hub. The cassette cogs attach to the freehub. It is possible to remove and service the freehub in a separate operation. See Freehub Service. A typical rear hub with freehub is seen below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cup and cone type freehub&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cartridge Bearing Hubs&#xA;Hubs using the cartridge type bearings are not serviceable in the sense they can be dismantled and adjusted. As cartridge bearings wear and develop play, the entire cartridge unit is replaced. Cartridge hub service is not covered in this article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common cartridge bearing type hub&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub overhaul&#xA;For rear hubs, begin by removing rear cogs. Remove quick release skewer. If it is a solid axle type, remove axle nuts.&#xA;Inspect axle ends. Measure and note the amount of axle protruding past locknut. For quick release hubs, counting the number of threads is an adequate measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(OPTIONAL) Mount in axle vise, if possible. Mount right side down with left side facing upward. Generally, dismantle from the left side.&#xA;Remove any rubber cover. Use a tie or string to hold small parts in the same orientation as they came off of hub.&#xA;Hold cone using cone wrench, and loosen locknut counter-clockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove locknut and any washers, placing them on the tie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove cone by turning counter-clockwise.&#xA;Place hand below right side, and lift wheel slowly. Be prepared to catch bearings that fall from hub. Place wheel on bench.&#xA;If inspecting bent axle, remove right side locknut and cones. Note that left side and right side cones, washers and locknuts may be different. Do not confuse left and right side parts. Use tie method to keep track of parts. Also note axle thread may be asymmetrical. The side with more axle spacers gets more axle thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Count the number of bearings on each side, and then use pencil magnet to remove bearings from hub shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many hub models, it is possible and recommended to overhaul with the pressed dust caps in place. Dust caps may be fragile and removal may result in damage. Work around dust caps when cleaning and inspecting.&#xA;Wipe and clean all parts. Parts must be dry for assembly. Wipe freehub mechanism out using damp rag. Do not soak freehub in solvent. Freehub bodies are lubricated internally with a light lubricant, and soaking them with solvent will remove lubrication. For freehub service, see Freehub Service.&#xA;Hub and Parts Inspection&#xA;View hub cups and cones for pitting or damage. Also use a ballpoint pen to trace the bearing path. Roughness and wear will be felt as the small ball of the pen passes over pits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;        &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect ball bearings for shininess and brightness. If balls are dull looking, they should be replaced. If the cup is damaged, it typically cannot be replaced. A new hub would be required. Cones are typically available as replacement parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If inspecting axle, roll axle on flat surface. View axle close to surface and watch for gap appearing as axle rolls. Bent axles cannot be re-bent. A new axle is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub Assembly&#xA;Grease axle threads.&#xA;Grease heavily inside hub shell cups.&#xA;Place ball bearings in both cups and cover with more grease. Make sure balls are seated flat in cup. For rear hubs, the common number is 9 balls of 1/4-inch diameter per side. For front hubs, the common number is 10 balls of 3/16-inch diameter per side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all parts were removed from axle, install right side parts. Use care to install in the same orientation as they came off. Return axle protrusion to the original measurement, as noted earlier. Tighten cone locknut fully.&#xA;Install axle through right side of hub.&#xA;Install left side axle parts, using care to install in the same orientation as they came off. Do not set axle protrusion on this side and do not tighten locknut at this time.&#xA;For quick release type hubs, snug the cone down until it contacts the ball bearings, and turn back counter-clockwise one quarter turn (90 degrees). This will purposely make the bearing adjustment too loose. Hold cone with cone wrench and tighten locknut fully. Proceed to HUB ADJUSTMENT below.&#xA;NOTE: For quick release wheels, it is critical the axle end sit inboard or recessed inside the frame or fork dropout. This allows the quick release skewer to secure onto the frame or fork end. If the axle end protrudes even a very small amount, the wheel may not properly secure and may come out during use. In the image below the axle end is only slightly too long. If the hub is the correct width, check the axle is centered between the locknuts. It may be necessary to grind off the axle end until it is safely recessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub Adjustment&#xA;Quick release hubs have hollow axles that flex slightly when the quick release is closed. Hub bearing adjustments must account for this extra pressure. When a quick release hub is not clamped tight in the frame, there should be a slight amount of play in the axle. This play disappears when the hub and wheel are clamped in the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test if a hub in your bike has an adequate adjustment, grab the wheel while it is still in the frame and pull it side to side laterally. Turn wheel and test again, feeling for a knocking sensation. If no play is felt, remove the wheel. Grab the axle (not the skewer) and rock it up and down to check for play. If the axle has play when the wheel is outside the bike, but no play inside the bike, the adjustment is adequate. If there is no play in the axle when the wheel is outside the bike, the adjustment is too tight, even if the axle seems to turn smoothly when out of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bearing Adjustment and &quot;Feel&quot;&#xA;Bearing surfaces are made from hardened steel. The surfaces are cut typically by grinding. Round ball bearings roll on the curved surface of the cup and cone. Even the highest quality bearing surfaces will have slight grinding marks. In the left image below is a high quality cone magnified two hundred times. Notice the parallel marks from the grinding stone. Also note a slight pit from wear. The right hand image is a bearing magnified the same amount. It does show some surface marking, but is generally smoother than the cone or cup. Bearing surface smoothness will vary between manufacturers and between models. Some bearing system will simply &quot;feel&quot; smoother because they are smoother. This is why it is difficult to adjust by using a subjective feeling of smoothness. Generally, adjust bearings for the loosest setting that has no knocking or play, regardless of this relative smoothness.&#xA;        &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following adjustment procedures simulate the on-the-bike compression while still allowing access to the left side cone and locknut for adjustment. The bicycle frame and skewer act as a holder for the wheel and the axle. The set up of the wheel on the frame may seem unusual. Follow directions carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Some frames and dropouts will not allow clamping the wheel as described. The hub or spokes may contact the frame. It is possible to find spacers to simulate the dropout. Additionally, an alternative to the procedure below is to adjust the bearings with the wheel unclamped. Mount the wheel in the frame to test the adjustment. Remove as necessary, adjust, and re-test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mount bike in repair stand.&#xA;Remove rear wheel from bike. If adjusting front wheel, remove front wheel as well.&#xA;Remove quick release skewer and springs. Remove any rubber boot covering left side cones and locknuts.&#xA;Insert skewer through cog side of hub. Install quick release adjusting nut on non-cog side. There must be a gap between the skewer adjusting nut and the locknut. The quick release nut must press only on the axle, not on the locknut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place cog side of wheel into left rear dropout. Non-cog side sits outboard of the bike, and is accessible to mechanic. If the cogs touch or interfere with the frame, remove rear cogs. Front wheel: either left or right side goes to rear dropout. Adjustment is done from side opposite clamped side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust quick release until tension is same as when normally clamping wheel in bike. Resistance to closing should begin half way through swing to fully closed. If in doubt see Wheel Installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check bearings for play. Hold end of axle on non-cog side with one hand and rock rim laterally with other hand. Play in bearings will be felt as a knocking in the axle. If play is felt, proceed to step #9 below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no play is felt, adjustment is potentially too tight. Purposely create excess bearing play as the first step to proper adjustment.&#xA;A. Use a cone wrench and hold cone from moving. Note position and angle of wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. Use another wrench on locknut. Turn locknut counter-clockwise to loosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C. Loosen cone by turning cone wrench counter-clockwise about 1/4 turn, or 90 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D. Hold cone from moving with cone wrench and tighten locknut. Locknut must be fully tight before play can be checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E. Test for play by holding axle and moving rim laterally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If play is felt, adjustment is too loose. Tighten adjustment:&#xA;A. Use a cone wrench and hold cone from moving. Note position and angle of wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. Use another wrench on locknut and loosen by turning counter-clockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C. Recall angle of cone wrench and tighten adjustment by turning cone clockwise 1/32nd of a turn. Imagine cone wrench extending to the rim. Move end of wrench only the distance from one nipple to the next at the rim. This approximates 1/32nd of a turn for thirty-six and thirty-two spoke rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D. Hold cone from moving with cone wrench and tighten locknut. Locknut must be fully tight before play can be checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test again for play by holding axle with one hand and moving rim laterally with the other hand. Rotate wheel and check for play all the way around wheel rotation.&#xA;If play is still present, repeat adjustment step above until play just disappears. Remember to make small adjustments clockwise one at a time. Check for play at rim after each adjustment. It is likely it will take several small adjustments.&#xA;Once play has disappeared, test final adjustment. Open skewer partially (about 45 degrees) and check again for play by rotating wheel and checking several points. If play is felt during this test, hub is adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no play is felt during final skewer check, the adjustment is too tight. To adjust, first CLOSE SKEWER, loosen locknut and loosen adjustment only slightly. Tighten locknut and check adjustment for play, then test again by opening skewer to 45-degreee. Adjustment is finished when there is no play felt when skewer is closed, but some play is felt when skewer is partially open.&#xA;Remove wheel from bike and return skewer and springs to normal position. Replace any rubber covers. Notice there is play in axle. This play disappears when wheel is clamped in place for use. You must use the same skewer setting for riding as for adjusting the hub.&#xA;Remount cogs, if removed, and install wheel into bike. It is necessary to duplicate the quick release setting of hub adjustment when installing wheel.&#xA;Misc. Notes: If hub will not adjust smoothly, the bearing surfaces may be worn out. If play does not disappear until bearing adjustment is very tight, right side locknut may not be tight against cone, or cups inside hub shell may be loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HUB ADJUSTMENT- SOLID AXLE TYPE&#xA;Non-quick release hub systems use axle nuts and washers on the outside of the dropouts to hold the wheel in place. Adjustment of solid axle hub bearings is similar to the hollow axle quick release type, but there is no need to allow for axle flex. Mount the wheel in the frame similar to quick release hubs as described above. Tighten the axle nut inside the dropout that is holding the wheel. The axle is now held tight. Check for bearing play. If no play is present, create play by loosening bearing adjustment, then adjust in small increments until play in gone. The goal is to find the loosest adjustment that has no play. Remove the wheel from the bike. The adjustment for solid axle hubs does not change when mounted in the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HUB-CARTRIDGE BEARING TYPE&#xA;These types of hubs use an industrial type-bearing unit. The inner and outer rotating races and ball bearings are installed as a unit. These hubs are not serviceable in the sense they are overhauled and adjusted. When the cartridge bearings are worn, rough, or have play, the cartridge should be replaced. The bearing unit is then removed and a new one pressed in. This requires special tools and is best left to professional mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T19:13:42.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9044" CreationDate="2012-04-16T19:19:09.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your bike can be fitted with pretty much any saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (metric) allen key on your new saddle is a 6mm. If you're using Standard Allen wrenches its probably a little larger than 7/32&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seat post needs to fit your frame. So you will need to mount the new saddle on your old post, or buy a new post that exactly matches the size from your original one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does sound like you've disassembled the guts of your suspension seat post, so if you can't get it back together, you're probably looking at a new seat post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be no problem mounting that seat on any post that fits your frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T19:25:19.390" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T19:25:19.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9060" CreationDate="2012-04-16T19:20:39.740" Score="7" ViewCount="21445" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to treat saddle sores? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loose clothes, Gold Bond medicated powder, or Moisturizer?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What seems to help reduce the painful symptoms of saddles sores once you already have them?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to prevent them, so I'd prefer to focus on what to do after you find yourself with this problem (like after you decided not use use chamois cream).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T04:59:47.217" Title="What is the best treatment (not prevention) of saddle sores" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9047" CreationDate="2012-04-16T19:30:26.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many products, but they all boil down to one thing: Eliminating friction and moisture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Even better is that all these products which help to heal you after, these same chamois cremes and bag balms, are designed to prevent saddle sores. Grandma always said an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure, right?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gold Bond, bag balm, or Assos After Ride Skin Repair gel all work well. Loose clothes, not so much. They tend to allow the skin contact which is best avoided once saddle sores or chafing come to visit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used chamois creme applied directly on the skin after a ride, and that is quite effective as well. Look for Assos Chamois Creme, DZ Nuts, or Chamois Butt'r.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T02:32:38.630" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T02:32:38.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9043" CreationDate="2012-04-16T19:47:37.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Marine Axle Bearing Grease or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/polylube-1000-lubricant-tube-ppl-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Poly Lube 1000&lt;/a&gt;. However, check out this Question about grease. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4607/what-makes-grease-appropriate-for-bikes&quot;&gt;What makes grease appropriate for bikes?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need a cassette lockring tool (Park tool FR-5 will probably work for most) to remove the lock ring at the end of the freehub and slide the rear cassette off if you have a freehub style rear wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got an older freewheel design, then you'll need the appropriate freewheel tool for your specific freewheel, possibly a large wrench, and maybe even a cheater bar for leverage.  Those suckers can get really stuck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sheldon brown's &lt;/a&gt; post about this if you're unsure which one you have.  You can find his words about how to remove it &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html#remove&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt; here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T19:47:37.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9033" CreationDate="2012-04-16T19:54:29.263" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe there is an important point that hasn't been mentioned and it applies to driving too. &lt;strong&gt;It's always safest to do what is expected&lt;/strong&gt;. People expect traffic to be going a certain direction. If a car is preparing to make a right turn onto a road, they are rarely going to check to see if there is any traffic coming from the right. I think a bike going against traffic is just as unexpected as seeing a car going against traffic. &lt;strong&gt;When everyone is following the rules, everyone knows what to expect.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly we could change the rules to have cyclists ride against traffic, and eventually that could be what's expected. But I think that would just make the rules more complex, and simpler is better. The more overlapping rules cyclists and automobiles have, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course accidents still happen (I know because currently recovering from a broken wrist from an oncoming car turning left in front of me on my bicycle), but all we can do is try to create the rules such that accidents are less likely to happen. I think the evidence provided by some other other answers shows that one is statistically more likely to be in an accident when going against traffic. I believe the reason for that is the one I've stated above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3896" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T19:54:29.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9047" CreationDate="2012-04-16T20:03:28.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, once the sores have formed, nothing beats a &quot;cortisone&quot; (hydrocortisone) cream like Cortaid -- it actually works to heal the sores, rather than simply &quot;allowing&quot; them to heal, so healing can occur in hours rather than days.  You can get a prescription version that's even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T20:03:28.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9053" CreationDate="2012-04-16T20:05:20.840" Score="9" ViewCount="1001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read the answers to &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/592/when-or-how-often-should-i-replace-my-bike-helmet&quot;&gt;When or how often should I replace my bike helmet?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, but unfortunately none of the answers there cites any references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have there been any studies quantifying the claim of reduced protection after single impact, e.g. in terms of increased risk of injury? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to see reasons why manufacturers would want you to believe any impact kills the helmet - it's hard to set limits on potential damage, and buying a new helmet means additional profit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horse riding helmets come with similar warnings, but my first one seemed to survive several years while I was learning show jumping - including way more falls than I could have afforded new helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T09:30:27.467" Title="How much does an impact reduce helmet's ability to protect?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9052" CreationDate="2012-04-16T21:21:03.303" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of good information about this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helmets.org/liners.htm&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. One paragraph from the article outlines the basic idea of this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Crushing the cell walls destroys the impact management ability for most stiff foams, so the helmet has to be replaced after a single impact. The crushing is not always visible and can be hidden by the outer shell. The foam can also recover some of its thickness over a period of hours, but not its ability to manage impact. Crushed and partially recovered one-use foam will feel rubbery and soft. Experts measure the foam thickness carefully for crush, but for consumers the recommendation has to be &quot;replace after every impact.&quot; Often the damage is not apparent in a casual inspection, even when there are cracks in the foam. And the rider often underestimates the impact because crushing of the foam dampened the shock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes on to explain the different types of technologies (with some links to scientific information) used in bike helmets. While your helmet survived all the falls, it was most likely offering you less and less protection from the falls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1928" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T21:21:03.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9021" CreationDate="2012-04-16T22:01:41.710" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is &quot;both, depending.&quot; The majority of current bicycle cyclometers use a reed switch and timer, and measure the time between successive triggerings of the switch as a magnet passes by. An advantage of this method is its simplicity and low cost, though if the magnet is ill-positioned or if the rotational speed of the wheel is too high, the reed switch can get fooled since it takes a while for the reed switch to reset itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A less common approach (used by the old Avocet line of speedometers, including the venerable and venerated Avocet 50) used an induction coil and magnet ring with 20 small magnets attached around the hub. The induction coil could rapidly count the change in current. You can see the details of this approach in the Avocet patent application for the 50, but its designer discussed some of the idiosyncrasies of that approach in &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/msg/f911949b508c945d?dmode=source&amp;amp;output=gplain&amp;amp;noredirect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Usenet post from 1994&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although these two different methods can be used to collect the data needed to calculate speed, the exact algorithms used may differ from device to device. One can see this in the way that cadence is often calculated. Almost all bike computers that have a cadence sensor use a reed switch, since the rotational speed of the cranks is low enough for reed switches to reset. However, different manufacturers use different averaging periods, time-outs, delays, and triggering events before displaying the result. Speed calculations work similarly, and one can occasionally see the evidence of these choices by examining &lt;a href=&quot;http://anonymous.coward.free.fr/wattage/rosetta/rosetta_details.html#speed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;speed and cadence data&lt;/a&gt; from bicycle computers that store these values and allow them to be downloaded after the ride. Here, for example, is a graphic that shows the speed recording from three different devices that were mounted on the same bicycle for the same ride (a PowerTap, a Polar S710, and a SRM Pro -- these are power meters but here we focus only on the recorded speed). Each device was set with the same wheel circumference but the histograms show that each stores and reports slightly different speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKamT.png&quot; alt=&quot;speed recorded by three devices on same ride&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T16:45:51.787" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T16:45:51.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-16T22:29:02.703" Score="2" ViewCount="4947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a few triathlons this summer, and I'm getting an aerobar for my bike.  I'd like to be able to shift while in the aero position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've currently got ordinary road bike bars.  On these bars are mounted a pair of '05  Campagnolo Ergopower shift/brake levers.  The groupset in this specific case is a Campagnolo Centaur, the rear derailleur is a 10-speed, while the front has 2 speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm riding with a pair of clamp-on Profile Design aero bars.  I'll be riding solo, so I don't need (or want - my weight is quite far forward!) brakes on my bar ends.  Instead, I'd like to be able to shift from this position.   Currently, my Ergopower shifters are still hanging in front of my drops.  I no longer ride in the drops very often; I'm either on the aerobars or on the hoods when going up a hill or in a group ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I select shifters for the aerobars?  The photographs I've seen look like the old friction shifters that go on a downtube.  As suggested &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/4925&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, friction shifters would be difficult with a 10-speed for the rear.  Also, I rather like my indexed system: I can adjust at home, and then click and forget while on the road.  Must I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters of the same brand as the rest of the groupset? (Shimano/Campagnolo/SRAM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters of the same product line as the rest of the groupset? (Dura Ace/Ultegra, Record/Centaur)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters of the same model year or generation as the rest of the groupset?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters with the same number of indices? (10 speed, 9 speed, 8 speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indexed or friction-type shifters?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time finding the shifters for my system at a reasonable price in an exact match. I've found other Campy bar-end shifters, but they're all of the higher-end Record series than my Centaur system and they're usually a newer model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2546" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T14:00:54.093" Title="How to choose bar-end shifters for a given groupset?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9033" CreationDate="2012-04-17T00:37:27.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue is actually quite complex. Some &quot;wrong-way&quot; routes can be quite safe if well-designed, marked, and implemented. Much of the data and research in this area is not published in English because &quot;contresens pistes cyclable&quot; or &quot;unechte Einbahnstraßen&quot; have been implemented in several European cities in France, Belgium, Germany, the Netherlands, and Switzerland, and in Japan. A previous bicycles.stackexchange answer referred to these bikeways &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1817/urban-cycling-safety-innovations/2778#2778&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. In general, these &quot;counter-direction&quot; bikeways are in dense urban areas with many narrow one-way streets and restricted speed limits (usually, 30 to 40 km/h, or around 20 to 25 mph). A 200 page report from the Institut Federatif de Recherche sur Les Economies et Les Societes Indutrielles (one of the French research institutes) of the experiences in 5 French cities can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fubicy.org/spip.php?article157&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (in French) and a short PowerPoint presentation by the lead author of that study can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fubicy.org/avon/moret/Moret/Contresens%20VaV.ppt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (again, in French). No accidents were observed on contresens bikeways in the study area during the period from 2002-6. A two-page illustrated brochure advocating the expansion of contresens urban pistes can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.droitauvelo.org/DOC/FICHES/fiche1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. In addition, a study of &lt;strong&gt;every&lt;/strong&gt; bicycle fatality in Paris in 2005 had shown that the single largest cause of death was being right-hooked at intersections, and contresens bikeways completely eliminate this danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, riding against traffic in unregulated, unsigned roads in the US appears to result in higher accident rates, as can be seen in the NHTSA/FARS data. The one-way roads that have been selected for two-way bike conversion in Europe are urban, speed-limited, and well-marked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T19:52:28.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9052" CreationDate="2012-04-17T02:18:53.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your dressage helmet had 2 advantages, in one sense, which is that you were landing on a prepared dirt floor in most instances, and that they usually included a harder exterior shell that helps protect the protection foam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there is no way to know if it was still doing its job after the first head to ground impact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it still looked good, and you still wore it for years, its impact protection ability drops each time the foam is compressed in the helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bicycle helmet has nothing but this foam, so damage is more immediate and visible, but your riding helmet was damaged, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The impact that damages a helmet is as often from the momentum of the riders head as it is the impact with ground, so a dressage helmet will usually have the same kind of damage. It just doesn't show as easily.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-18T09:30:27.467" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T09:30:27.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9055" CreationDate="2012-04-17T02:43:47.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do need an indexed, &lt;strong&gt;Campagnolo&lt;/strong&gt; shift set which is set up for the same number of gears that your bike has. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Centaur is 10 speed Campag, if I remember correctly, so something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26017&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Campag Record 10 speed bar end shifter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bike is 11 speed, then this, or similar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=70208&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;11 speed Campag bar end shifter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that you will also need a new set of brake levers without shifters, and that most aero brake levers are set up for a bullhorn style handlebar. You may want to change that as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will, of course, lose the ability to shift from the hoods or drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for price, you should of thought of that before you bought Italian components to begin with. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Must I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters of the same brand as the rest of the groupset? (Shimano/Campagnolo/SRAM) &lt;strong&gt;YES, They generally use different spacing between gears (Campag/Shimano) or different cable pull ratios (Shimano/SRAM).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters of the same product line as the rest of the groupset? (Dura Ace/Ultegra, Record/Centaur) &lt;strong&gt;No. You may mix component levels, if they match brand and index number.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters of the same model year or generation as the rest of the groupset? &lt;strong&gt;Helpful, but with a few exceptions, not mandatory.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters with the same number of indices? (10 speed, 9 speed, 8 speed) &lt;strong&gt;Yes. No options, unless your shifting is friction.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indexed or friction-type shifters?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Indexed requires indexed. Friction can work with most things, unless it is designed for fewer gears. Spacing doesn't matter.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for what it's worth, I can't find any Campag time trial shifters which are any group set other than Record in any of their online available catalogs. It is common to only produce 1 high end model of specialty items like that, so they may only have made Record models. Also Record 10 speed TT Shifters are discontinued, so if you really want a set, get them ordered while there are still some available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T14:00:54.093" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T14:00:54.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9047" CreationDate="2012-04-17T03:00:34.307" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take a few days off. Keep the area clean and dry.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try diaper rash ointment or maybe Aloe Vera and perhaps something like neosporin or OTC acne ointment. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cover affected area(s) with bandaging… such as a hydrocolloid or semiocclusive hydrogel dressing. Personally, I'd use this along with an anti-bacterial ointment. This especially if you aren't taking days off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to avoid infection and speed healing. You don't want boils forming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For the DIY folks... diaper rash cream is primarily zinc oxide +- an anti-bacterial/anti-fungal ingredient carried in something like petrolatum. Some also include hydrocortisone&lt;/em&gt; Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T04:59:47.217" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T04:59:47.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9003" CreationDate="2012-04-17T03:52:56.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've decided to go the cheap route - I got a Cateye Enduro 8 (which is wired, but not long enough) and I'll modify it to extend the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I start using my bike more (or I break the Cateye) I'll look at getting something like the Garmins @zenbike mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3875" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T03:52:56.440" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2012-04-17T07:15:17.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit since my original answer was from work, I have this to add...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First thing is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Spring Sales!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Most people are fair weather cyclists, so bike shops often have spring sales with decent discounts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Off-season buying and closeout sales.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I've found some of the best deals by buying winter stuff in the summer and summer stuff in the winter. I've also found real gems on the closeout racks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike shows and exhibitions.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; One can often find good deals at these types of events. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Factory outlets/Company Stores.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I'm lucky here. Both Nike and Adidas have company stores in my area; but, there are outlet stores in many locations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Online, I can offer this, but other answers have the online world pretty much nailed down. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/apparel-category&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/apparel-category&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-04-19T20:45:35.167" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T20:45:35.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2012-04-17T09:40:38.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sportsdirect if you are in the UK. karrimor tights and ski socks got me through winter lots of stuff for 10 and 5 quid so can't be bad to those prices&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T09:40:38.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9066" CreationDate="2012-04-17T12:46:57.507" Score="1" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if 'starter pin' is the correct terminology.  When you buy a new chain, that doesn't have a master link, you get a longer pin that allows you to put the chain together.  Then you simply take a pair of pliers and snap the extra piece of pin off.  Is there anyway to just buy the pins without buying a new chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2528" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T13:35:59.897" Title="How to Get Starter Pins" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9065" CreationDate="2012-04-17T12:54:54.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Any local bike shop should have them in stock, and they should cost no more than 5 dollars. You need to know the brand and type of your chain. (i.e. Shimano 10 speed or Campag 11 speed) If you know the model (i.e. Ultegra or Dura Ace Shimano, that is a bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, Shimano refers to it only as a reinforced connecting pin, or replacement connecting pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LCqB2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano Reinforced Connecting Pin&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T13:35:59.897" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T13:35:59.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9073" CreationDate="2012-04-17T16:00:19.280" Score="5" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recent purchased a road bike bit of a classic with the downtube shifters, lugged steel frame etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I mainly road my fixie, thou I do have another geared bike, but it left a bit to desired; just had the top tube indexed shifters, which were a little off to say the least. So between the both of them I never really bothered much with changing gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I hear a lot of the whole: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;spinning is winning&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to improve two things, my endurance and cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know what way to change gears in an efficient manner as to maintain optimal power output. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A situation that comes to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coming up to a hill to climb&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--Fixie it was a cause of momentum is your friend ass off the seat and sprint on them pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--What should I do on a geared bike and what are the signs of doing it right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other situations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting from standstill? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coming to a stop?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long prolonged climb?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T04:02:32.073" Title="Efficient gear shifting" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2012-04-17T16:03:50.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this problem which is how I found this post on google! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excellent answer from the last person above! (Ed - we don't know what post that would be, now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have exactly this issue, the titanium spindle with 2 sealed bearings either side (6903 stainless with rubber seals, 30mm x 7mm x 17mm) used with an alloy cup on the drive side and the non drive side uses a Shimano alloy threaded type cup which are usually used in sealed bottom brackets. I have an idea which may fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am about to buy some perspex tube off Ebay which is 30mm over all diameter and is the same width of the spindle between the 2 sealed bearings (about 59mm for a 73mm spindle). So what this will do is hold the bearings together strong whilst I tighten the non drive side type cup. Hopefully this should work, since it simulates a cartridge type bottom bracket but its a light weight version - only weighing around 130 grams for 2 cups, 2 bearings spindle and may be another few grams for the tube. I been looking into light weight components you see :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3905" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T23:01:41.253" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T23:01:41.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9067" CreationDate="2012-04-17T18:10:06.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends on the cyclist. &lt;a href=&quot;http://ask.metafilter.com/145158/Cycling-mashing-versus-spinning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Some cyclists are mashers and some are spinners&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are a masher if:&#xA; - Lower cadence (70-80 RPM on flats)&#xA; - More time standing on the climbs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are a spinner if:&#xA; - Higher cadence (80-100 RPM on flats)&#xA; - More time sitting on climbs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally used to be a masher until I started mountain biking in the off-season. Now I'm more of a spinner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the way to become a better spinner is to learn to climb at a higher cadence. This is a lot easier to do if you have a cadence sensor on your bike, otherwise you are going more by feel. But it seems the approach is to stand up in a lower gear to get your speed up and then downshift and sit. It should tax your heart more than your legs if you are spinning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think these same concepts apply to your other scenarios as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: There is nothing wrong with being a masher either. Joe Friel suggests doing the same climb twice with the same conditions. Once with lower cadence and once with high cadence. You might be faster and more efficient as a masher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1928" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T18:10:06.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9042" CreationDate="2012-04-17T18:59:16.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on your saddle. As someone who has just been enlightened, some saddles are supposed to be pointed a bit nose up. Take the brooks flyer for instance, it is not the front that is supposed to be level. It is the back making the front point a bit upwards. I think of it less of a seat then a hammock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also had a saddle that was a left over from my fat days that provided extra back support. Because of it's design for bigger behinds, and me lacking one for the first time in a long time, I kept sliding forward which was hurting my taint (for lack of a better word).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try angling your seat up a bit or maybe moving it forward a bit on the rails. Play around with the fit and see what kind of results you get. If all else fails you can go to your LBS and ask them to take a look at it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T18:59:16.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8694" CreationDate="2012-04-17T20:24:42.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wallbike.com/berthoud/handlebar-bags/berthoud-frontbags-basic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; Gilles Berthoud&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acornbags.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Acorn Bags&lt;/a&gt; were the only matching sets I found that met the requirements of having both a rack mount frontbag and a rear seat only rear bag made from matching material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 1/8/13: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://builtbyswift.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Swift Polaris bags&lt;/a&gt; can be paired with their saddle bag to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T16:43:44.183" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T16:43:44.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9067" CreationDate="2012-04-17T20:43:23.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot will come down to what works better for you - I tried for years to learn to get my cadence rate up, and I can happily go at a 100+ rpm, but not at a low gear as I find myself needing to push against something. What works for me is just brute force in a high gear. As @Bryant says - I'm a masher through and through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try both and see what works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T20:43:23.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9067" CreationDate="2012-04-18T04:02:32.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to improve your efficiency and endurance on your bike there are several strategies that you can use to accomplish that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Spinning is winning&quot; concept is only partly about when and how you change gears for a given situation. It is about making sure you use the mechanical advantage of your bike's drivetrain to ensure that every bit of energy you burn goes into making you move forward, faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most cyclists, 90 RPMs cadence is an efficient balance point between speed and energy loss. And it can be remarkably hard to maintain that cadence in all situations. The &quot;Spinning is winning&quot; concept pushes that even farther. 100 to 110 RPMs is common for those cyclists following that track, and Lance Armstrong was well known for staying in 120 to 130 range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to improve your metrics in this area, you need a way to measure them. If you don't have one, get a good wireless cadence capable cyclometer. Preferably one with training software included. I usually recommend the Garmin products, but they aren't cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then ride your bike. Try to maintain a cadence of 90 RPMs, regardless of your riding situation, once you're up to speed. That means when downhill, on flats, or uphill, your legs should always be moving at about the same rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can only be accomplished by shifting your gears efficiently. As we move into the base of a hill, there is a natural tendency to set the body to engage with more power, to slow the cadence, and grind it out. Instead of doing this, increase your cadence slightly to build momentum for the hill, and as your cadence drops 10 RPMs below your goal (approximately) shift to a lower torque gear, and it should rise back up to your goal cadence, or slightly higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you always pattern your shifts to keep your cadence consistent, you will find better aerobic fitness, and better efficiency on the bike, come naturally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And once you can do it easily at 90 RPMs, move up to 100 as a goal, then 110. It will work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T04:02:32.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2012-04-18T07:32:16.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that most US mountain/road bikes are measured from the center of the bottom bracket shell to the top of the seat tube, European road bikes are center of the bottom bracket shell to the center of the intersection of the top tube and seat tube, and BMX bikes are from the center of the top tube intersections between the seat and head tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US Road/MTB: Center to Top (C-T)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Euro Road: Center to Center (C-C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BMX: Top Tube (TT)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebicycles.com/article/how-do-i-measure-a-bike-frame.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; backs that understanding up, with pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T07:32:16.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-18T22:49:14.807" Score="7" ViewCount="20346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done long rides with the bar 10+ cm below the saddle without getting a sore back, or anything.  Thing is, when I do, my average speed is 2 - 4 km/h SLOWER than when I have the bar higher up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know you lose power as you get lower.  Weird thing with me, is that if the bar is lower than about 4 cm below the seat -- and I mean by just 5-10 mm -- my speed/power drops like a freakin' rock!  (I'm talking as much as 3+ km/h slower up a 10% grade!)  Any idea why such a dramatic drop in power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bar is only 53 cm from the seat, which seems awfully short to me, for someone who is 186 cm tall.  (If I increase that reach just another 5-10 mm, I also have that same sharp power drop.)  I do know my torso is shorter than normal, given my 91 cm inseam, but still.  I think I have reasonable flexibility -- I can touch the floor with my fingers while bending over.  I do know when I had the seat lower and/or further forward, that caused additional power loss when getting low, but I think I have the seat figured out now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:  Today I fooled around -- yet, again!!! -- some more.  Discovered that if I concentrate on flattening my back while leaning forward, I can actually go FASTER than the more &quot;relaxed&quot; position (when the sudden power loss occurred).  (Sorry, not too familiar with anatomy . . . that's the best I can describe it.)  As noted in one of the responses, this &quot;leaning forward&quot; motion did require moving the seat 5-10 mm forward to get to what seems to be optimal.  I'll see how the &quot;new and improved&quot; position works tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3675" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-21T05:37:49.110" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T22:40:28.717" Title="Why such a dramatic drop in power when the handlebars are lower than the seat?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9078" CreationDate="2012-04-19T02:10:34.647" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the biomechanical hypothesis already mentioned by @DanielRHicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every joint/muscle-group has an optimal range of motion and an optimal max-force/max-power position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am the same height as you, and the distance you mention is pretty short indeed, as measured on the bikes I ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be necessary to analyze the &quot;cockpit triangle&quot; of your bike: bottom-bracket/saddle/handlebars: in the hypothesis that, lowering your bar, you get an angle between torso and thighs that is too acute, then the correction of the problem would be opening that angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That could be made in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rise the handlebar (which apparently is the opposite of what you want to do);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move all your upper body front by putting a longer stem AND moving the saddle forward a bit, so that you feel the pedals &quot;more behind&quot; than in the current position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High power output (a.k.a FAST) bikes, with aggressive riding position, tend to throw the rider over the bars, so that the torso weight can counter-act the torque on the pedals, and also be more aerodynamic. It is common to see such bikes with high, forwarded and sloped seats (extreme example: time trial bikes);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you just put a longer stem without bringing the saddle forward, you get in a more &quot;superman&quot; position, actually DECREASING the torso-thigh angle that we would want to increase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there are mysteries in finding the perfect position on a bike. Perhaps even sub-conscious factors of varied nature might contribute for a sensation of &quot;not-right&quot;. Unfortunately, only self-analysis and trial-and-error are the guaranteed key to salvation in this case, although some professional advice would be always welcome (a.k.a. bike-fit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T02:21:52.127" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T02:21:52.127" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9026" CreationDate="2012-04-19T11:41:55.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer my own question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution #2 is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible to replace the fulcrum arm and pulley assembly with a short guide nut (HMN420) as long as there's a cable stop somewhere on the frame.  You can also buy what S.A. calls &quot;fulcrum clips&quot;, see catalogue linked in question above, which effectively provide a cable stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This combination has the advantage that it will fit into a tight dropout with deep circular lips that impede the fitting of the fulcrum arm and/or the pulley assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ADDITIONAL INFO: Tony Hadland in his &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hadland.me.uk/page10.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;supplement to The Sturmey Archer Story&lt;/a&gt; mentions that a different, but similar hub, the Sprinter would work with/out the fulcrum arm, so this is a use-case which S.A. has tried to address for some time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Sprinter used the same shell as the 5-StAr; and like the 5-StAr,&#xA;  had the same ratios as the S5 series. However, the Sprinter's&#xA;  arrangements for routing the toggle chain into the hub were novel in&#xA;  that there were four options: the traditional flared wheel nut; or a&#xA;  &quot;gear selector pulley&quot; in a housing which slid over the wheel nut; and&#xA;  in either case with or without an axle-fitting fulcrum lever/clip.&#xA;  These options were felt necessary because of the high cable tension&#xA;  necessary for single cable selection of five gears - which with &lt;strong&gt;an&#xA;  ordinary flared nut and banded-on fulcrum clip could give stiff&#xA;  operation and/or cause the clip to slip along the chainstay. However,&#xA;  with a brazed-on cable stop, the flared nut worked quite well.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether the SRF5(W) has the same concerns about high cable-tension remains to be seen. One &lt;a href=&quot;http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2009/07/sa-3-peed-wheels.html?showComment=1246981930470#c6304883918516596817&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;downside to using a fulcrum-clip&lt;/a&gt; (e.g. HSJ513 - HSJ514, HSJ548,HSJ543) on three-speed hubs is that the cable can apparently hang loose in certain gears.  A suggested remedy is using full-length cable housing.           &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3879" LastEditorDisplayName="user3879" LastEditDate="2012-04-21T14:06:45.027" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T14:06:45.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9084" CreationDate="2012-04-19T21:44:13.380" Score="4" ViewCount="6835" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems conventional wisdom says to alternate inward vs outward spoke heads going around the flange when lacing a wheel, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2087/2183537814_e0e79b4d38.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Alternating Lacing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm wondering what the reason for this is, and if it has advantages or disadvantages for the flange, lateral stiffness, and/or lacing the crosses. It does look nice to have them all match, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SezbM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Constant Lacing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this 'bad'? Can it only be done in radial spoking? Could you have more lateral stiffness from all outside spokes, and/or less lateral stiffness from all inside spokes (because of more/less angle spread of the spoke angles)? The &lt;strong&gt;ideal&lt;/strong&gt; answer would explain the pros and cons of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternating Inward/Outward Lacing (Standard?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All Outward (heads facing inward) Lacing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All Inward (heads facing outward) Lacing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-15T11:58:46.093" LastActivityDate="2019-01-15T11:58:46.093" Title="Can I lace my hub with all inward or outward facing spoke heads?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2012-04-19T22:33:04.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Search ebay for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/sch/Men-/158991/i.html?_nkw=cycling+jersey&amp;amp;_catref=1&amp;amp;_dmpt=US_Men_s_Athletic_Apparel&amp;amp;_sc=1&amp;amp;_sop=15&amp;amp;_sticky=1&amp;amp;_trksid=p3286.c0.m1538&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycling jersey&lt;/a&gt;&quot; and you will get a TON of results that don't cost much at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T22:33:04.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9081" CreationDate="2012-04-20T02:18:32.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Radial lacing is the only sure safe pattern for what you are suggesting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1x might work, but the spokes would not lay nicely, and would defeat the purpose stated of having a nice looking lacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2x or 3x would damage the spokes at the first crossing, regardless of spoke count or flange size. It would also look stupid, and be dangerously weak, because since the spoke could not lay smoothly without damaging the underlying spoke, the wheel tension would be difficult at best to make even. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cross the spokes, they cross under each other creating a &quot;weave&quot; which adds bracing to the structure. If that happens too close to the flange that brace becomes a tension pint, which at minimum will make extra odd noises and I expect (because I haven't tried it) would cause spokes to saw against each other. If you could stand the long enough, you'd see broken spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saying &quot;Conventional wisdom says&quot; implies that there is some unknown reason for this pattern, and that perhaps its just tradition or aesthetics. In this case, conventional wisdom is only pointing out the obvious: 2 objects can't occupy the same space at the same time without conflict. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-20T06:22:00.770" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T06:22:00.770" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9081" CreationDate="2012-04-20T02:28:51.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to &quot;why alternate crossing spokes&quot; is pretty much settled by the subtle suggestions from DanielHRicks and the direct and correct conclusions from the OP, in the very comments below the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two remaining questions would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When is it possible to use non-alternating configurations, besides radial spokes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In case of non-alternating configuration, should the spoke enter the flange holes inwards or outwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am, on purpose, not including the already much discussed pros and cons of using crossing vs radial.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first question is: there is also the SPIRAL configuration, shown in the picture below taken from the front wheel of my fixie:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6SZ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(note the missing spoke at 2 o'clock...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This spiral configuration is achieved when the spokes you have are too long for a radial lacing. Then you twist enough that they can fit. This is not so good, because it creates torsion in the hub's body, but I've seen that (and ridden that) a lot, and nothing terrible happened so far. Of course, it could not be safely used with disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the good part: should the spoke run inwards (like the photo you posted and the photo I posted) or outwards? My answer would be: OUTWARDS, ALWAYS! I know that is pretty to see all those tiny spoke heads neatly arranged one beside the other in a pearl-collar-like pattern, BUT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outwards running spokes give a wider leverage to resist lateral forces. That means the same lateral force on the rim would cause a smaller variation in spoke tension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a bit easier to insert spokes that run outwards (although in radial lacing it is not so important).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most importantly: spokes running outwards touch the flange as they run to the rim, just above the elbow. That means the elbow is isolated from most of the flexion they would suffer whith the successive loading and unloading caused by wheel roll. This decreases fatigue significantly, hugely increasing the lifetime of the wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the answer is your second option: All Outward (heads facing inward) Radial Lacing, UNLESS (!!!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You use a hub for which the manufacturer forbids the use of radial lacing (most of them). Radial lacing might theoretically cause too much stress on the hub flange, since the force is applied in a direction where there is the least amount of material to resist the pull.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You use disk brakes (from previous answers, I think you're going to use those multi-mechano-power U-Brakes, so no problem).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(just for the record, the wheel in the photo I posted is opposite to what I am advising. That is because I already bought it that way. And I think the missing spoke - broke yesterday - has to do with this lame inward-running pattern.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-04-20T02:36:21.833" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T02:36:21.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9086" CreationDate="2012-04-20T05:43:46.977" Score="18" ViewCount="14729" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father, now in his 70's, had a left knee replacement several years ago. He has limited movement in that knee - probably about 85 degrees on a good day. His knee can extend fully, but cannot bend as much as it should. As a result, he cannot pedal a bike he cannot get his left leg over the top of the pedal stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He is desperate to get back onto a bike, he knows he won't be ripping up the road and winning races like the old days, but wants the freedom to go for a slow easy rides.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have suggestions as to a solution to the problem. We don't mind spending money if we know the solution will work, but he can't afford to throw big money at wild ideas that may or may not work. If we find a solution, a new bike is likely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have access several mountain bikes in a range of sizes to trail ideas, and we have all the tools and skills to build bikes up from parts and rearrange things as needed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Thanks everyone - all great suggestions. What am am going to do is got tto the LBS and get hold of a cheap set of short cranks for around $30- probably from a kids bike, in the 120-150 size range, and see if he can ride that. Depending how he goes, I'll try a standard right crank and a short left crank. If all else fails, we will go for the Power Cranks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: In case anyone else has similar problems.&#xA;Got some 152mm cranks for $30. Set an old  mountain bike up with the seat as far back as possible. The old man is able to ride reasonably comfortably, now has a smile from ear to ear - any suggestions how to remove it - doesn't fit with the grumpy old man image :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has got me wondering how many people with minor knee problems would benefit from short(er) cranks....... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2018-03-05T03:34:32.703" LastActivityDate="2020-02-23T18:54:25.707" Title="Setting up a bicycle for someone with restricted knee articulation" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;bike-setup&gt;&lt;adaptive&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9085" CreationDate="2012-04-20T06:37:17.337" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powercranks.com/&quot;&gt;Power Cranks.&lt;/a&gt;  They are a crank set with the ability to freewheel independently of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It allows a slow build to fully articulated movement if additional rehab is still a goal, and using each crank independently means using a bike is still possible, even if doing so uses a pedaling motion which would be awkward for someone who had an option for full movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also have adjustable crank lengths on each independent arm, which would allow you to use a shorter crank on the leg with the limited movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are often used as a rehab tool, are a real, readily available, and not ridiculously priced product, and are install-able with normal bicycle tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One caveat: They are shifting to a new poly carbonate fixing cap. If you order, I recommend requesting the old alloy fixing caps. The last set of poly caps I installed broke easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FTR, I have installed and used this product, and have no relationship with the manufacturer, nor will I be compensated in any way for this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T06:37:17.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9085" CreationDate="2012-04-20T08:23:01.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this any use? Very similar solution to the power cranks (I think) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-crank-shorteners-prod239/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-crank-shorteners-prod239/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link leads to Thorn crank shorteners. A flat bar with two long homes where the bar is attached in parallel to the crank. It bolts to the bottom bracket spindle and pedal thread. There are threaded holes to attach the pedal at different positions on the bar. The idea is to such the pedal at an adjustable crack length without replacing the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="30402" LastEditDate="2019-10-30T09:39:13.713" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T09:39:13.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9085" CreationDate="2012-04-20T11:16:40.937" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have also seen pictures, many years ago in an old bike book, of a crank with a pivoting piece.  Basically, imagine the crank cut off at about the 2/3rds point, and then the cut-off piece reattached with a pivot.  The crank would go down to the bottom of the stroke, but only come up a little over midway.  (Kinda like a car on a Ferris wheel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I have no idea if this is still made, or where you might find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:  Apparently if you Google &quot;pendulum swing crank&quot; you will find examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2018-09-03T01:16:15.123" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T01:16:15.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9091" CreationDate="2012-04-20T14:21:31.270" Score="3" ViewCount="1495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to leather saddles and I'm working on breaking mine in. I'm using a Brooks B17 Narrow.  I use clip on fenders with my bike when the weather is bad. However, sometimes I get caught in the rain, or hit puddles on otherwise dry days.   I know that I need to apply proofide to the top of the saddle to protect and condition it, but I'm not sure what to do about the underside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What strategies are recommended for protecting the underside of your leather saddle?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would applying proofide to the bottom be appropriate to help protect it? Other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T21:59:22.660" Title="How do you protect the underside of your brooks leather saddle?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;leather&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4305" CreationDate="2012-04-20T14:46:08.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikejerseys.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikejerseys.com&lt;/a&gt; has been my goto for bib shorts. The 6-panel Santini and Nalini are very practical, relatively inexpensive, and last a long time. Not crazy about the 90's web design, but at least you know they're not blowing cash on an expensive website!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're in the Lehigh Valley area in Pennsylvania, the velodrome in Trexlertown has a giant twice-a-year flea market of &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; cycling-related called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thevelodrome.com/flea-market/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;velofest&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. The next one is May 5th. Great for stocking up on consumables and worth it even if you have to drive a few hours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T14:46:08.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9089" CreationDate="2012-04-20T14:58:28.870" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brooks recommends applying a layer of proofide to the bottom of the saddle. However, you should &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; wipe this layer off after it sets. Just leave it on, and it will protect the underside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I also recommend fenders for a bike that you plan to use frequently in the rain. This will also drastically reduce the amount of water that splashes up into the underside of your saddle. However, only a &quot;permanent&quot; full-size fender will really provide this protection — removable ones don't protect the seat tube, and the spray from water hitting that is the primary source of the water that gets under the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2012-04-20T15:33:34.193" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T15:33:34.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9113" CreationDate="2012-04-20T18:37:41.877" Score="9" ViewCount="147145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a 44 year old man that is very heavy (250&amp;ndash;260lbs(113-118kg)) and I am looking to buy my first mountain bike to do some riding on the weekend to burn off some of this fat I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3930" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T04:39:56.950" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T04:39:56.950" Title="How to find a mountain bike that can handle a heavier (250-260lbs) rider?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;clydesdale&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2012-04-20T19:54:59.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might look into something like the Kona Hoss, which I believe is no longer made but can probably be found used. Here are some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/bikes/xc-hardtail/kona/hoss/prd_363360_1527crx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reviews on MTBR&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most critical thing to selecting a bike will be getting strong wheels, crankset, seat &amp;amp; post, pedals, and fork. These are the components that bear most of your weight. You can probably start with almost any mid-range mountain bike and just make a few changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install a rigid fork. Unless you want to spend a lot of money, it will be hard to find a good fork that's going to hold up well to your weight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upgrade the wheels. Look for something marketed as a free-ride or all-mountain wheelset. This should be significantly stronger than the stock wheels on a lower end (&amp;lt;700) bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy some BMX style platform pedals. They're not too expensive and will be plenty strong.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ride the thing and see how everything else holds up. If you bend the seatpost or have trouble with the bottom bracket and crankset, you can upgrade them as you go!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: You don't need to spend $1000 plus, unless you want to. You can probably find a decent used bike on Craigslist for $200-300, and then budget another $200 for some simple upgrades. You should also invest in a nice pair of bike shorts. There are lots of non-spandex options that look just like regular street shorts. Once you start riding and losing weight you may find you want a different type of bike or something fancier...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3932" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T19:54:59.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2012-04-20T20:18:43.917" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't go full suspension - it at $1000 price point its a gimmick, and at your weight, you would need highend stuff for it to be adjustable enough to be useful. I am sure you can spend less, (I ride off-road with a guy who's 220lbs, hes really fit and all muscle, rides hard and fast. His sub $1000 bike stays in one piece), unless you are looking for serious off road use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strongly recommend buying form your local bike shop rather than Kmart. They should be able to put you oto a bike that will meet you budget, fit you properly and give you advice. They will also be able to maintain it for you. If they can't put you on a bike within your budget look for one that has lots of kids bikes, they will understand the budget, and wont try to tell you that you need the lycra clothing to go with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T20:18:43.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9078" CreationDate="2012-04-21T13:16:16.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing is, there are at least a half-dozen factors involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two most obvious are positive factors -- up to a point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A low angle reduces &quot;frontal area&quot;, the primary factor in wind resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaning forward allows the primary muscles of the leg to be more effective, by improving the angle of pull and by utilizing the fact that muscles tend to be stronger when (somewhat) extended.  (But both of these effects have an &quot;optimum&quot; angle that's likely somewhere between 25 and 45 degrees from the horizontal.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Negative effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaning forward reduces cooling.  At full power output ridding the body of excess heat is easily a limiting factor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaning forward compresses the chest, reducing respiration effectiveness.  Not only is the body less able to get sufficient oxygen and rid itself of CO2, it also experiences a further reduction in cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaning forward compresses the blood vessels in the lower abdomen, groin, and upper legs, reducing blood flow to the leg muscles.  (Interesting point:  When you're in a squat blood flow to many of your leg muscles is completely cut off.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaning forward, beyond a point, requires that significant additional effort be exerted by the arm and back muscles, to maintain the posture.  This detracts from the energy available to power the legs, and also has a mental impact that detracts from being able to concentrate on pedaling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, the two &quot;positive&quot; factors hit limits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beyond a point leaning forward produces little additional reduction in frontal area, and may (if tested in a wind tunnel) actually begin to have negative effects.  (I suspect that the TdF teams have the wind tunnel data, but I'm not aware of anywhere that it's accessible.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beyond a point leaning forward begins to reduce leg muscle effectiveness, by over-extending the muscles, and by producing a less optimal tendon angle.  And, as mentioned elsewhere, one can begin to run into skeletal limitations of leg angle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these factors effectively multiply on each other such that a very slight change in posture can produce a dramatic drop in output.  Also, many of the factors will be influenced to a degree by temperature, wind, the degree of fatigue, etc, so doing &quot;tests&quot; of one scheme and then the other can easily produce ambiguous results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T13:16:16.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6397" CreationDate="2012-04-21T14:59:19.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday afternoon during Friday rush hour, I came upon a 2 car head on collision at a blind curve in my area. I am a hospital employee and have training in emergency response so I stopped to help when I saw a young man clutching his eye. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put on my poncho and did my best to make clear signals to drivers. All the participants were physically fine, but there was a heavy rain and if I hadn't acted, I suspect there would have been a 2 hour line of traffic at best or a series of further collisions at worst. There were no problems, and I left when the police arrived. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was leaving, a police officer thanked me but &lt;strong&gt;cautioned me that it was a legal liability&lt;/strong&gt;. My thought on the matter is that if an accident had occurred, it would be because drivers ignored my signaling. So who knows who would be in trouble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3936" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-04-21T16:33:25.127" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T16:33:25.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-21T17:32:07.513" Score="8" ViewCount="16239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which bicycle lock that is a combination lock (with a code instead of keys) is the most secure device available on the market? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course everything can be broken, and its only a matter of time, but for which combination lock the time to crack it by a potential thief is the highest, without using tools that a thief is very unlikely to use on the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that price and weight are not an issue. The only absolute requirement is that its a keyless lock. Is there anything that has an exceptionally good proven track record, preferably something that is being sold for quite some time already with no major vulnerabilities found?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarification: as a lot of people instead of applying common sense, made fun of me and spammed the answers with useless non-information, let me define terms used in the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term &quot;price is not an issue&quot; is to be understood as &quot;Price of the lock up to a single fee of 200 EUR (approx. 250 USD) is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term &quot;weight is not an issue&quot; is to be understood as &quot;Mass of the lock up to 3 kg (approx. 6.6 pounds) is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="670" LastEditorUserId="670" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T14:23:03.740" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T22:09:20.170" Title="what is the most secure bicycle combination lock?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9097" CreationDate="2012-04-21T22:04:49.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No combination lock provides a high enough level of protection to warrant being tested as a valid means of security. Speaking from experience, I have never seen one that a decent pair of bolt cutters couldn't get through in less than 15 seconds. I'm not a bike thief. I volunteer at a bike co-op that takes donated bikes and refurbishes them for sale; these often have old locks on the frame for which the combination has been forgotten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find some lock comparisons online where they test the security of different locks against one another. However, these generally focus on mid to high-range locks, which always have keys. There isn't much point testing out the low-end combo locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since you've said that price and weight aren't an issue, but that a combination and security are the most important features, I recommend you keep your bike in a large safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKPWM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the only secure method to store a bicycle with a combination lock&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T22:04:49.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9097" CreationDate="2012-04-21T22:51:45.010" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think ABUS is one of the most respectable, perhaps THE most respectable bike-lock manufacturer around. They have even some numbered levels of protection, the higher the level the higher the protection, even agains powertools (because of special steel alloys, and such).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have some combination padlocks, which seem very interesting. Take a look at these 4-digit (ten thousand possible combinations):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://abus.de/us/main.asp?ScreenLang=us&amp;amp;sid=17052859100342622042012187113208116&amp;amp;select=0103b06&amp;amp;artikel=4003318357633&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reinforced padlock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://abus.de/us/main.asp?ScreenLang=us&amp;amp;sid=17052859100342622042012187113208116&amp;amp;select=0104b02&amp;amp;artikel=4003318551635&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chain-lock with combination and key&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://abus.de/us/main.asp?ScreenLang=us&amp;amp;sid=17052859100342622042012187113208116&amp;amp;select=0104b03&amp;amp;artikel=4003318375316&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cable-style lock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://abus.de/us/main.asp?ScreenLang=us&amp;amp;sid=17052859100342622042012187113208116&amp;amp;select=0104b11&amp;amp;artikel=4003318517952&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Linkage style (this one is awesome)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other options in their site, but I think these are the most robust combination ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: just to complement, I think combination locks are a good option for errands, but not for whole-day or part-day parking out of sight. I suppose the OP intends to do so, since he mentions &quot;in the street&quot; and &quot;keyless&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I use to go to the supermarket by bike, and I think a combination would probably demand time enough to open so that someone wouldn't risk an opportunistic theft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for parking at, for example, a train station full of annonimous bikes (none of these parkings in my city, yet), I'd go with the keyed ones, no doubt. A combination one would be an invitation for the thief to earn a bike AND a keyless lock &quot;combo&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final thought: does anyone go out without his own home keys? Would a lock key be too much to put together in the home keyring? Well, just a thought!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T16:20:41.103" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T16:20:41.103" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9102" CreationDate="2012-04-22T06:36:35.243" Score="6" ViewCount="7246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hybrid bike with front and seat post suspension. It's easy to see how front suspension reduces pedaling efficiency by using some of the power for compressing the shocks, so I keep it locked on paved roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In situations where performance is more important than comfort, does a suspended seat post cause any harm to end results? I.e. would I get better times / speeds with a rigid saddle post?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T19:36:26.513" Title="Does seat post suspension reduce efficiency?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9100" CreationDate="2012-04-22T08:20:33.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A doctor from the German Sports University Cologne made some tests in laboratory and realized the suspension helps. &#xA;A study was made at Saint Cloud State University, this time it was off-road. The result answers your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Riding a front suspension bicycle resulted in faster finishing times in a cross country time trial versus a rigid bike in a second part of the study&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more about this two studies &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.active.com/mountainbiking/Articles/Proper_suspension_improves_all_aspects_of_your_ride.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. One relevant quote is: &quot;The suspension seat post was surprisingly efficient with a 25 percent reduction.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3938" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-04-26T19:36:26.513" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T19:36:26.513" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9100" CreationDate="2012-04-22T09:17:18.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seat post suspension is not designed for efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is designed to add comfort to a hard tail mountain bike frame. There are only a few really good suspension seat posts, and they are rarely used on hybrid bikes. Almost always, you will find that the suspension post on a basic hybrid is just a spring in a tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, they add the ability to pre-load the spring to make it feel stiffer, and that is a slightly better option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that type of suspension post, you affect your efficiency when the post is active because your seat height will change as you ride, and as the post compresses. This will change your position and leverage, and usually, not for the better. It will detract from the amount of power you are getting out of the system, while still using the same or more energy to put in that power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A true full suspension will account for most of these factors, and is therefore generally a more efficient choice, but weight, cost, and designed riding style for a bike will also affect the efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To directly answer your question, yes, you would be more efficient without a suspension seat post, assuming all else was equal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most hybrids are lacking in any number of areas in regards to efficiency, and you may not feel the actual difference in efficiency from the seat post given the bike you are riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T09:17:18.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-22T11:18:21.290" Score="1" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not talking about the tools needed for the ride. I am talking about enduring and performing on long tiring tour. Grab a concept of a tour I recently went to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;25 Km Uphill &gt; 40 Km Downhill &gt; 30 Km Up hill &gt; 10 Km Downhill &gt; 26 Km Uphill &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I came back&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;26 Km Downhill &gt; 10 Km Uphill &gt; 30 Km Downhill &gt; 40 Km Uphill (exhausted)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On about 15 km on the Uphill, I couldn't do it any more, took a bus, and came home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eventually was overdoing on the downhill and on some sprints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how to put up this question, but &lt;strong&gt;How to cycle, when heading for a ride I mentioned above?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am a regular commuter but, the ride above was a personal challenge&#xA;  to myself and the first time doing this. Before this my longest ride&#xA;  was 82 Kms in a single day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There were frequent stops on the up-hills but none on the down-hills.&#xA;  I hydrated frequently but as food, I had packed some energy bars and&#xA;  nothing more. I sprinted to maintain the speed not to go fast which was definitely overdoing.&#xA;  Average speed on the speedometer was 18.xx &lt;code&gt;(forgot)&lt;/code&gt; Km when I decided to stop and I cycled&#xA;  for about 11 hrs. For rests, I was relying on down-hills mostly. Slopes were not very steep but were tiring due to length of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was riding on big MTB tires.. which gave a lot of trouble with the&#xA;  speed (as expected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2012-08-01T06:06:53.023" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T06:06:53.023" Title="Performing on long and tiring tour" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9100" CreationDate="2012-04-22T11:21:40.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that, in theory, suspension of any sort saves energy on a rough surface, since you &quot;burn&quot; less energy moving your own body up and down as you go over bumps.  The negative side occurs, however, if the suspension absorbs energy as the pressure changes as you pedal -- ie, it goes up and down with each pedal stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, in theory, a seatpost is least likely, of all suspension types, to &quot;go negative&quot;, since when you're pedaling hard most of your weight is supported by your legs, not the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the devil is in the details, and it's hard to predict what happens in &quot;real life&quot;.  I suspect that to some degree the simple fact that your seat height is constantly changing can &quot;throw off&quot; your stroke -- not absorb energy per se, but make you less able to produce energy efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T11:21:40.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9103" CreationDate="2012-04-22T11:36:11.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your numbers are correct and I added that up correctly, that's 147 miles.  That's a Century-and-a-half -- a very long ride for anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to be any good at distance riding, you have to do a lot of distance riding -- you can't expect to go from 50-mile rides to a 150 mile ride and still have the same &quot;pep&quot; you have on the shorter rides.  It's biology -- the body &quot;learns&quot; to expect the sort of exercise to which it's been subjected in the past, and, in particular, the more you ride long distances, the more the body will store glycogen in the muscles and liver to provide you long-distance energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, on longer rides you must carefully &quot;husband&quot; your energy/stamina.  This means pacing yourself and not going flat-out most of the time.  It also means getting proper hydration and nutrition -- even a well-trained athlete (with lots of stored glycogen) cannot do 100-150 miles very well without plenty of water and a substantial amount of calories (in the form of carbs) during the ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-24T02:41:23.273" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T02:41:23.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8636" CreationDate="2012-04-22T12:12:44.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling speed is a function of cadence and gear ratio. If someone is able to overtake you with a lower cadence then the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; explanation is that are using a higher gear ratio. Skills and techniques will not make you faster if you don't change your cadence or gear ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OPs estimation of his cadence and that of the person who overtook him look highly suspect to me. I suspect that the faster rider had a very smooth peddling technique, which made it appear that were pedalling casually, but difference in cadence was probably much less then it appeared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical set of gear ratios for a 7 speed mountain bike was 42/32/22 chainset with 11-28 cassette; for a 10 speed (with triple chainset) it is 42/32/24 and 11-36, which is exactly the same top gear ratio. Bigger wheels increase gear ratio too, but the difference between 26&quot; and 29&quot; wheels is only about 12%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the front chainring size from 42t to 48t would increase the top gear by 15%. Assuming you have a 11t sprocket on the back, that'll give you a top gear higher than most  26&quot; wheeled bikes and similar to the highest gearing found on most 29&quot; wheeled bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3940" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T12:12:44.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9103" CreationDate="2012-04-22T13:17:00.287" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your goal ride is 150+ miles, especially with a large amount of climbing, you need to plan and carefully follow a series of build up rides, from a distance you can easily handle to your goal distance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, you need to make sure you eat right and regularly in the rest of your life, and that when you ride you are maintaining your fuel on the bike. Water and electrolyte replacement drinks or tablets for hydration, combined with a couple of snacks, either energy bars or sandwiches, and maybe the odd gel pack for a quick boost will fuel your body, and keep you away from that crash stage of energy depletion. (Or from crashing your bike from pure fatigue on that last descent.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you ride 2 to 3 days a week, if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do 2 weeks where the first 2 rides are 65km and the third is 100km. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take at least 3 days rest, then do 2 weeks where you do 80km 2x, and&#xA;then 120km.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3-4 days rest, followed by 2x 120km and 1x 150km. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3-4 days rest followed by 150km 2 days, and 200km the last day. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue to ride this last pattern for 3 more 2 week cycles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have little trouble with your ride pattern above after that, assuming you maintain your nutrition. This assumes you have a decent base fitness, based on the fact that you tried that ride above and made it as far as you did. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you are unable to &lt;strong&gt;easily&lt;/strong&gt; follow the first week pattern, then start instead with a 35km twice a week ride, plus 50km once a week for a 2 week cycle, and continue alternating that with the 1st week cycle above until you are confident you can move ahead with the plan listed above in its entirety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T13:17:00.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9103" CreationDate="2012-04-22T17:15:28.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, it's 2 things; &lt;em&gt;training and nutrition&lt;/em&gt;. My guess is that you either didn't get in enough quality training and/or you were not properly nourished on the ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For Training&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the best ways to build up to longer rides and ride them enjoyably is through interval training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best book I've found on the subject is: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1934030473&quot;&gt;The Time-Crunched Cyclist: Fit, Fast, and Powerful in 6 Hours a Week&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chris_Carmichael_%28cyclist%29&quot;&gt;Chris Carmichael&lt;/a&gt;. The book includes a lot of info on lactate threshold, energy metabolism, nutrition, race and century training plans, etc. I first tried out his methods after reading one of his articles in Bicycling magazine on century training. Another great source for long distance training plans and ride nutrition is J&lt;a href=&quot;http://joefriel.typepad.com/blog/&quot;&gt;oe Friel's blog&lt;/a&gt; for endurance athletes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, Carmichael's methods are a form of interval training where you are doing things like hill-repeats, power intervals, fast pace intervals, etc. There's a lot of info out there on interval training. One of the more common is called HIIT (High Intensity Interval Training). When I train for a Century+ ride, I'm basically doing training rides 4 - 5 days a week with most of them being maybe 2 hour interval training sessions with longer (4 - 6 hour) rides on the weekends. Coming out of the off-season it typically takes 8 - 10 weeks to train for a century type ride, provided that you are already fit; easily longer if you've not done this before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said about training, if you were really intensively training before the event; it's conceivable that you over trained and your body was just too spent to make the full effort. It's important to remember that rest days are vital in training for challenging rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For Nutrition&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've trained well for a long endurance ride, the next key for success is &lt;em&gt;nutrition on the ride&lt;/em&gt;. Essentially, you want to consume carbohydrates during the entire ride. Carbohydrates are fuel and without fuel, you &lt;strong&gt;WILL bonk&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, on a supported ride, I make the stops and eat carbs with small amounts of some proteins and fats, plus carry along energy bars. For un-supported rides, I've had very good results using &lt;em&gt;Perpetuem&lt;/em&gt; which is a product made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hammernutrition.com/products/perpetuem.pp.html?navcat=fuels-energy-drinks&quot;&gt;Hammer Nutrition&lt;/a&gt; and there are other similar products on the market. This product is primarily maltodextrin plus protein powder plus a bit of fat and some vitamins. (Without getting too in depth, maltodextrin is a polysaccharide consisting of long chains of glucose which is readily used by the body). The beauty of this product is that it's a powder and a large number of calories can be carried in a cycling jersey for mixing into water bottles. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Also, on un-supported rides, one can always bring food along and stop at stores along the way&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another vital component of endurance riding nutrition is to be sure to stay hydrated and make sure that you consume electrolytes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical long ride (Century (100mi/161km) to Century+) nutrition plan that I use along with my  riding buddies looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supported leisurely century - We just stop at the rest stops and eat whatever we feel like. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supported challenging century - Again, we enjoy the rest stop foods, plus carry along some extra energy bars/other and normally some maltodextrin formula for extra efforts (climbing, headwinds, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unsupported leisurely century - We bring along various energy foods/bars/endurance sport formulation and typically have lunch at some cafe or whatever along the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unsupported challenging (remote, mountainous, often altitude) century - We rely heavily on endurance sport nutritional formulations, plus bring along a few bars/etc to break up the monotony.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main point being to consume easily assimilable food (carb/starchy) all along the way. Generally avoiding high fat and high protein foods, as digesting fat/protein 90 miles into a 120 mile ride is usually detrimental to performance and getting over that last mountain pass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer is based on lots of long distance cycling in the Coast Ranges and Cascade mountains of the Pacific NW and California and learning by trial and bonking...although it's been quite a while since I last bonked... Also, I have been know to extol the virtues of &lt;em&gt;The Time Crunched Cyclist&lt;/em&gt; and that's because the training methods in that book completely transformed my long distance cycling abilities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;BTW - This year I have been working on some DIY formulas for ride energy nutrition. It looks like a roughly 4:1 ratio of maltodextrin:protein powder should work. The raw ingredients are much less expensive than pre-packaged versions.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T18:30:09.967" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T18:30:09.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9110" CreationDate="2012-04-22T21:36:53.027" Score="13" ViewCount="31651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I an not talking about upgrading. How do you know when to buy new wheels because the other ones have worn out? How do you tell a wheel is worn out? I can always true a wheel back to true. And nothing is dented, but the maintenance is getting a little more than it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T03:16:40.623" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T04:30:15.660" Title="When should a wheel be replaced?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9109" CreationDate="2012-04-22T22:00:27.427" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;At some point the spokes become too fatigued and start snapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point, with rim brakes, the rim wears through until it's no longer stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point the bearing races in the hub become too worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these, only the third reasonably demands that the wheel be replaced -- wheels with worn spokes can be relaced, and rims can be replaced without relacing.  But in some cases, especially if more than one of the above problems is looming, it may be more cost-effective to replace the wheel rather than repair it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, there's always the case of some sort of actual damage to the wheel -- ripped spoke holes in the flange, bent flange, &quot;taco-ed&quot; wheel where both spokes and rim will need replacing, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T22:00:27.427" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9109" CreationDate="2012-04-22T22:49:15.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most reasonably new rims come with a wear line. There should be a groove machined into the breaking surface. Once you can no longer see this, the brakes have worn down the rim too much and the rim needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T22:49:15.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-23T00:49:37.637" Score="-2" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any shops that rent high end bikes like Santa Cruz, Titus, etc. by the week or month? I've checked SpeedGoat, Competitive Cyclist and the rest of the usual suspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I'd like a carbon 29'r with 5&quot; of rear travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="922" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T03:12:56.073" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T03:19:16.333" Title="High End Bicycle Rentals in New York City" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2012-04-23T02:16:17.440" Score="17" Body="&lt;h1&gt;250-260 pounds isn't that heavy.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not need to worry about weight at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See if you can find the information from the manufacturer about weight limits for their bikes. For a mountain bike that you intend to use for what it was made for, you're probably within the weight limit the bike is designed for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to avoid the lightest weight stuff (carbon) unless you check the weight specs. But that's mostly stuff on the more expensive bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the parts that normally wear out will likely wear out faster for you than for somebody lighter, but that's no big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to do tougher things with the bike than it was made for (jump a trail bike, for instance) you could run into problems. Stick with getting a bike that's intended for what you plan to do with the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;1. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/faq/questions.php?questionid=104&quot;&gt;Trek Bikes Weight Limits&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rider weight limit of 275lb: Road bikes with drop type handlebar&#xA;  Triathlon, time trial or Speed Concept bicycle Cruisers with large 26&quot;&#xA;  tires and swept-back handlebar, Bicycles that fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rider weight limit of 300lbs: Hybrid bicycles with 700c wheels, tires&#xA;  larger than 28c, and flat handlebars City bicycles: hybrids with&#xA;  special equipment, cyclocross bicycles: with drop type handlebars,&#xA;  knobby 700c tires, and cantilever or disc brakes Mountain bikes of all&#xA;  types including: standard, race, cross-country, heavy-duty, trail,&#xA;  all-mountain, freeride, and jumping bikes of both the hardtail and&#xA;  full suspension variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;2. &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/pdf/manuals/OM0232_Warranty_r1.pdf&quot;&gt;Specialized Bike Warranty Policy (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; (weight info near the bottom):&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, some bicycles and components are built to be lightweight, which means they may not be appropriate for riders who are approaching 250 pounds in weight (over 240 pounds, for example). Riders approaching 250 pounds in weight should not ride any bicycle equipped with Specialized-branded composite seat posts, handlebar stems, or handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: avoid the carbon/composite seat posts, handlebar stems and handlebars and you'll be fine with this brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;3. &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.cannondale.com/Manuals/2010_Cannondale_Bicycle_Owners_Manual_124451.pdf&quot;&gt;Cannondale 2010 User's manual (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; (Starting at page 52)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High-performance road: 275 pound rider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;General Purpose Riding, Cross-country MTB, Marathon MTB, Hardtail MTB, All mountain, Gravity, Freeride, Downhill, Dirt Jump, Cyclocross, basically everything they make except high-performance road bikes: 300 pound rider, as long as you stick to the intended use. Limit on cargo goes from 5 pounds to 55 pounds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T02:16:17.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9112" CreationDate="2012-04-23T03:19:16.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general terms, you will only find high end off road bike rentals in high traffic cycling vacation spots, like Whistler-Blackcomb resort, or Moab, Utah. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These places and similar destinations are the only places where a large number of riders who want or need high end off road bikes, and are willing to pay enough money to make it practical to rent those bikes, will come through regularly without their own bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, for local rentals, people either want more basic machines due to cost. Or the cost of the machine doesn't balance with the number of people willing to pay enough to justify purchasing it to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T03:19:16.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9109" CreationDate="2012-04-23T03:47:03.537" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons why you might need to replace a rim or a wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crash or impact damage is the most common. This can range from a&#xA;tacoed rim, to flat spots or flare impacts. These are usually very&#xA;visible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke fatigue is a mileage issue. As a wheel is ridden, the constant tension and release of stress on the spokes will fatigue the metal until it breaks. You usually see breaks of several spokes in a short period of time. More than 3 spokes in a few weeks, or spokes breaking at the j-bend for little or no apparent cause are signs of this. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake wear is caused by the use of a rim style brake over extended periods of time. You literally wear away enough of the metal on the sidewall of the rim that it becomes too thin to support the pressure of an inflated tire. This is rare, because a rim usually perishes from damage first, but it is dangerous, and should be replaced. There are indicator marks on newer rims to tell you this is happening. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is the possibility that the rim has become fatigued, or that there is small, non-visible damage from previous repairs that prevent the rim from being trued and tensioned evenly. This is most commonly the reason a wheel is replaced. When the rim is trued straight, measure the tension on the spokes (only on the drive side if it's a rear wheel) and if the wheel is round, and straight, but you can't make the tension at least reasonably even, then it will always come out of true quickly. This makes the maintenance load too high for most riders. It is a damaged rim, but in the least visible way. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And last, if there is damage to the bearing races in the hub, then&#xA;the wheel will roll rough and have more resistance than it should. The hub should be replaced. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you can replace a hub, spokes, or the rim individually. If you replace the rim, you should replace the spokes. Why risk building fatigued parts into your new rim? And if you replace the hub, unless the wheel is very new, you should build with a new rim and spokes, for similar reasons. If you can do the work yourself, you will find it cost effective to build a wheel by hand, but if not, buying a replacement wheel (unless it is a high end hand built wheel) is usually more cost effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Given your description, I think number 4 is your issue. I'd say time to replace or rebuild the wheel.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T03:52:15.167" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T03:52:15.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2607" CreationDate="2012-04-23T07:50:22.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a Dawes Scorpion and it uses downtube shifters as well. I learned how to shift both levers with my left hand, because I prefer to keep my dominant hand on the handlebars so to prevent wobblin' out on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3943" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T07:50:22.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9120" CreationDate="2012-04-23T11:34:01.920" Score="3" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a new bicycle, it is a clasical one (downtube shifters etc). I want to use it for commuting. Some guys told me that it might be a collectable bike and maybe i should try and find a bike colectioner before ruining it as beater bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have posted picture of it here.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/ugTnS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/ugTnS&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T13:29:22.683" Title="Is this a collectable bicycle?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9097" CreationDate="2012-04-23T12:16:35.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kryptonite sell this combination U-lock which they rate as 6/10 &quot;Moderate Security&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=110415&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KryptoLok Combo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/98zwv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be good enough for most circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T12:16:35.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9118" CreationDate="2012-04-23T13:29:22.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are good Campagnolo parts on it which may be collectible, and it is a Masi frame, which held quite a bit of value for some time. It's not in bad shape, but not so good as to justify mint condition collector value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt it has any serious value even fully restored unless it was actually ridden by Fausto Coppi or Eddy Merckx (which is understandably unlikely), but if you take the time for a restoration, you may get a couple thousand or so dollars from a collector with a particular interest in Masi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything beyond that would require a specialist in the subject, and provenance on the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T13:29:22.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2012-04-23T15:25:00.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At those speeds on flat terrain there are other factors that will impact average speed far more than bicycle type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, stopping at intersections in an urban area will cause your average speed to plummet. 12mph average is actually reasonable for a dense city area and is not much slower than what cars average. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about riding in areas without stopping, getting faster than 12mph average is easy with a little more experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T15:25:00.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9128" CreationDate="2012-04-23T18:33:07.550" Score="23" ViewCount="65021" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you tell when it's time to replace a cassette?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are there any specific wear patterns on the teeth to watch for or symptoms specific to a worn-out cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1313" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T20:19:40.390" Title="How to tell when to replace cassette?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2012-04-23T20:03:20.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cross bikes do have a different geometry than most modern road bikes, key word being modern.  Cross bikes typically have a longer wheelbase and chainstays to accomodate larger tires, in addition they usually but not always have a slightly higher bottom bracket though I know many dudes who race cross with a 7cm bb drop and that is no higher than most road bikes.  Dont buy into the hype or complete BS claims that a cross bike will somehow feel slow or react like a battleship or slow you down.  Truth is modern cross frame geometry is nearly identical to old school classic Italian road stage race geometry with longer chainstays and a longer overall wheelbase.  This type of geometry has perfectly suited many of the worlds best racers for decades.  It is only in the last decade or two where an obsession has entered the road race scene to fit riders to the smallest teeniest frame possible with the shortest, twitchiest wheelbase.  People often mistake twitchy for being faster,  it isnt.  All twitchy does is force you to expend additional energy keeping your bike poijted straight.  Read some of the writings of Andy Hampsten,  a fairly good rider.  He essentially laughs at the guys who think a supee short wheelbase bike with twitchy handling somehow makes you faster, particularly on a long stage type race.  In fact the opposite is true and Hampsten knows his stuff far better than most amateur roadies who will willingly drink any frame Koolaide served to them.  LOL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3945" LastEditorUserId="3945" LastEditDate="2012-04-24T01:30:37.573" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T01:30:37.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2012-04-23T22:30:29.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone who weighs in at 375lbs, I can tell you that a good build will hold up just fine.  I would stay away from box-store bikes (Walmart, K-Mart, etc) and shady bike shops, as they tend to cut corners in components and overall build quality.  Hit up your local bike shop and let them know your worries.  A good bike shop will probably have some great suggestions for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I prefer steel bikes (started on a Trek, then went to Surly).  I know that From my understanding, aluminum bikes are stronger, but I have a mental block against &quot;lighter&quot;, so I stick with steel.  The only problem I have run into was wheel quality.  Once I went to hand-built wheels with quality components, I stopped having problems.  Right now I ride a Surly Ogre with 36 spoke wheels atop Surly New Disc hubs; they are pretty much bullet-proof.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-05-24T11:54:58.720" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T11:54:58.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9122" CreationDate="2012-04-23T22:43:09.430" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wear pattern I have usually noticed is that the teeth become more &quot;pointy&quot; or &quot;hook&quot; shaped. Also, Rohloff makes a tool called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/en/products/hg_check/index.html&quot;&gt;HG-Check tool&lt;/a&gt; for Shimano cogs. Not sure if it works for other brands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main symptoms I've noticed are rear chain skipping and poor rear shifting. However, these symptoms have multiple causes, so you want to rule those out before spending the money on a new cassette. (For example those symptoms can indicate chain, cable, and derailleur issues.) And at times, one may only need to replace a cog or two, rather than the whole cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A major key to cassette lifespan is keeping the chain clean and lubed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T22:53:12.320" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T22:53:12.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9122" CreationDate="2012-04-24T03:30:25.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: this answer uses an extreme example, perhaps irresponsible, I admit, but which tried to state some things which I think are valid considerations regarding the question asked: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sprockets can be used for very long provided you change the chain frequently; That COULD mean there are a lot of usable cassettes being thrown away that could still give more kilometers per buck if properly managed;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing a sprocket is necessary more because of safety than because it doesn't work anymore, or because it could damage other components (the example shown crossed the safety issue while still working fine);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a limit to how worn a sprocket can be even if it still works. The photo shown is an extreme example (caricatural, in a way). Thanks to the fruitful discussion (see comments), I could not feel like advising anyone to use any sprocket to the point the one I show in this photo. Anyone doing this would be at his own risk, and that is Bad Thing. It shouldn't be done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hadn't, and would not recommend, to measure the wear on the cassette, but on the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put a new chain with a cassette, and it doesn't skip, the cassette is ok, even if the teeth are a bit thinner than new. That is possible if you change the chain often, always for a new one: then the cassette wears out slowly, but the teeth are never deformed like a ramp (shark teeth). I elaborated a lot on this in another answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/7880/2355&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/7880/2355&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, when the teeth are SO THIN that they are pointy, or its width is significantly reduced, perhaps it's time to convert the cassette into a set of ninja shuriken (just kidding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be problems with the indexing of gears if you are a fan of ultra-precise shifting, but that usually is not a great problem, and as far as I know don't cause damage to other parts of the shifting system, at least if it is not necessary to force the lever to shift up (could stress the pulleys - usually this is not the case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, the proper way to measure for the CHAIN wear is the distance between pins, that should be exactely half an inch for each consecutive pair of pins. This can be measured in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a chain wear measuring gauge/rule. This is very easy and precise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a regular ruler. You must measure one foot of chain (12 pairs of links) while it is slightly under tension. If the distance increased by more than the thickness of a pin, then it's time to replace it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for the record, this is a current picture of my internal-gear-hub bike with surely more than 25 thousand kilometers with the original cog. I must have used some eight chains on it, always replacing via measuring, either with a gauge or with a ruler. It works without issues (no skipping, no falling off, no grinding sensation). This is too much, I recommend not going so far. I has paid itself a long long time ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ur3Pt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T15:02:25.030" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9122" CreationDate="2012-04-24T04:11:28.060" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without experience, or obvious damage, a cassette gauge like the one from Rohloff, or mileage are your best options for deciding when to replace a cassette. For me, a good rule of thumb has been:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 chains = 2 cassettes = 1 set chain rings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, I change my chain every 1200-1500km. I change the cassette on the 5th time I change the chain. And I change the chain ring set every other time I change the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of an obviously worn chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bf7lx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Worn Campy Chain ring.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of a worn cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wwnI2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Worn cassette&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T04:11:28.060" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-24T05:56:00.957" Score="1" ViewCount="2565" Body="&lt;p&gt;MTB's cranks usually have a 42 or 44T where as Road bikes range up to 53T. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I am under a impression that more tooth, means more speed. Same goes for cassettes, lesser the tooth more the speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, nothing is as it seems, I want to know what are bad things I expect when I take this move? Is it that bad, that it would be simply better to forget about it and move on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main intention is to create a super fast MTB, where possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Please &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I am not a expert on crank &amp;amp; cassette&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2012-04-24T11:00:33.933" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T11:00:33.933" Title="Road bike's Crank &amp; Cassette on a MTB, what's the catch?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9129" CreationDate="2012-04-24T06:28:21.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain ring clearance to the frame, because a larger tooth count has a larger diameter. Since the chain stay is at an angle, and designed for a certain diameter, too large a ring will come too close to the frame. Anything closer than 5 mm, is not a good idea, since a larger chain ring will also flex more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum tooth count for front derailleur. A front derailleur is designed to work and shift well with a certain size of ring. There is usually a small range above that which can be used. (i.e. Shimano's 3x XT FD-M785 is designed for a 44t, but can accept up to 48t.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cable pull ratio for front shifter/Chainring spacing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are special shifters designed to allow a road bike drive train to run with a flat bar brake and shifter. But there is no easy and guaranteed way to run a road crank set with a mountain bike drive train, unless you replace all of the drive train parts, and buy road touring flat bar shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is usually more cost effective to buy a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-24T09:03:10.433" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T09:03:10.433" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9142" CreationDate="2012-04-24T08:42:09.897" Score="8" ViewCount="17207" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying up my cadence, but noticing a fair bit of saddle bounce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few things that could be contributing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use toeclips over cleats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;saddle height (thou I'm at the sweet spot of full leg extension without strain)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any techniques/exercises to reduce this or am I simply trying to increase my cadence too fast too soon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T17:23:07.950" Title="Reducing saddle bounce when increasing cadence" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9131" CreationDate="2012-04-24T09:10:41.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proper saddle height is usually said to be set where your knee is between 5-15 degrees. If you are at 0 degrees but not straining, you are still locking your knee and this could cause the pedals to push you up off your seat. Try dropping it an inch or so and see if it does anything to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you like to ride at full extension then do it! I ride a lot more aggressive terrain and will not raise my seat past the point that both my feet are planted flat on the ground and was chastised for it being too low (by someone who almost got run over by a bus a few days later because he couldn't reach the ground). Don't let someone else tell you how to ride!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T09:10:41.780" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9138" CreationDate="2012-04-24T12:25:31.567" Score="-1" ViewCount="1162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to replace the stock saddle of an old cannondale bad boy jekyll with something more comfortable. The local store tells me that since cannondale does not produce their own saddles, I should buy a third party saddle from them. Is this true? Can anyone recommend a saddle, cannondale or otherwise, that will be more comfortable yet is still forward angled and not too wide? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/2012/gear/component/2012-quick-saddle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/2012/gear/component/2012-quick-comfort-saddle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/2012/gear/component/2012-bad-boy-saddle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/2012/gear/component/2012-tesoro-saddle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;4&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/2012/gear/component/2012-hooligan-saddle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/2012/gear/component/2012-all-mountain-saddle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;6&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/2012/gear/component/2012-synapse-saddle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3951" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T14:59:53.873" Title="Replace stock cannondale bad boy jekyll saddle" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8505" CreationDate="2012-04-24T13:08:16.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of a late reply, but I'm working on an app at the moment that can do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikedb.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bikedb.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit of a work in progress, but any feedback is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3953" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T13:08:16.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9097" CreationDate="2012-04-24T13:37:15.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that you might have some luck pairing up an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.masterlock.com/products/product_details.jsp?lockStyle=Combination&amp;amp;typeOfEnvironment=Outdoors&amp;amp;lockUpValue=High&amp;amp;category=MLCOM_CombinationPadlocks&amp;amp;modelNumber=MLCOM_PRODUCT_1177D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;industrial level combination lock&lt;/a&gt; with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/Locks/PRD~5016-857/planet-bike-transportstorage-chain.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;big security chain&lt;/a&gt;.  I've actually been toying with the idea of making my own bike lock for quite a while.  THe problem with the big chains as I shown is that they are really mostly way too long, making them heavier than necessary.  I would think that 18 inches (or maybe even 12 inches) would be sufficient to get the lock around the frame and back tire and lock it to the bike rack.  The security chains really are quite difficult to break, even with a big pair of bolt cutters, and there are shrouded padlocks which don't really provide any place where the bolt cutters could even be used.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T13:37:15.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9141" CreationDate="2012-04-24T14:58:26.620" Score="5" ViewCount="1153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides eyeballing it and comparing the line to the seat tube, are there any tricks to getting 48 splined crank arms perfectly aligned? I must have spent a solid 15 minutes looking at them from every angle until I was satisfied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T02:41:20.947" Title="Trick or tool to help line up 48 splined crank arms" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9134" CreationDate="2012-04-24T14:59:53.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saddles are personal. There is no way for anyone to give you a good and reliable recommendation that can be guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cannondale, like most manufacturers, buys and rebrands saddles from other companies. The stock saddle will be very basic, usually, and replacing is usually a good idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third party saddle will have no problem fitting on your bike, and I would recommend you speak to the guys at your LBS and let them recommend a good saddle for your riding style and body type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They know you, and any specific saddle we suggest would be know more than a general guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T14:59:53.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9137" CreationDate="2012-04-24T15:03:41.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some BMX cranks are keyed, so that they will fit only one way. If yours is not keyed, then, no, there is no better way to line it up than to do it by eye. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to double check it, take a plumb bob, and place it across the center of the pedal threads on one crank. Turn the crank until the string lines up with the other pedals' thread center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the string follows the center of the crank arms, you are lined up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9141/1259&quot;&gt;pointed out by @Ehryk&lt;/a&gt;, the difference is pretty visually noticeable. Probably not worth all the effort involved here, since you see an almost 1 inch variation by eye easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T07:20:45.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9137" CreationDate="2012-04-24T16:02:02.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the given suggestion(s), another possibility (although a bit overkill) could be to take a picture from afar (5m+), with the camera aligned to the bottom bracket axis, and analyze the alignment on the zoomed image, via eyeballing or some drawing/viewing program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T16:02:02.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9137" CreationDate="2012-04-24T16:24:15.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bearings are decent, just take the non-drive pedal off and let the pedal weight pull the other side down, or slowly let it fall from slightly off center. This is how I could tell with my Bullseye cranks, besides hopping on and trying to pedal it. If that doesn't work then I'd try tying a heavy weight or looping a paint can around one of the pedals close to the crank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're looking for a 7.5 degree distance, so on 185mm cranks that's 24mm or nearly and inch of diference between splines. Weighting the opposite side enough should make it clear. I then took some nail polish and marked both the crank and axle so I didn't have to play this game again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T16:24:15.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9131" CreationDate="2012-04-24T16:53:43.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the most useful measure would be to improve your spinning technique, by spinning itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would require a lot of self-observation, and a lot of self-discipline, in order to perceive in which conditions the pogo-effect manifests itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which cadence;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which power-output;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which pedal/leg position cause the &quot;jerk&quot; and the bouncing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nice way to do that without too much rocket science is to add some cushioning to your ride for some time, be it baloon tires, suspension fork, suspension post, soft-sprung saddle, and the like. Train with one of these for a while, until you're satisfied. I think suspension-seatpost is the most direct and cost-effective choice for this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With one of these &quot;devices&quot;, the bouncing effect would be increased a lot, and you will be forced to discipline your rhythm so that the bouncing stops or at least gets diminished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a lot of unintentional training with that during my mountain-bike years, in a time suspension forks didn't have lockout systems. I think it worked fine, and if you do it consciously, perhaps it works even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T16:53:43.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9131" CreationDate="2012-04-24T17:23:07.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a matter of both fit (frame-geom, saddle position, stem &amp;amp; cranks), practice, and gearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone has a max RPM after which they start &quot;bouncing&quot; and you'll find this RPM is even lower if you're at a relatively low gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the bike fits you properly, raising your max RPM is simply a matter of practice. This can't be done at will in one session. It is a motor skill that has to be trained by drills and observed for progress. Informally you can try forcing yourself to ride at lower gears than you're used to. Over time your body kinematics will become more efficient and your form will improve (bouncing will start at higher and higher RPM's).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cadence of 100 without bouncing is achievable by almost anyone who tries for it. Elites on a track have motionless backsides at cadences of well beyond 150rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T17:23:07.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9137" CreationDate="2012-04-24T19:32:05.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try using trial-and-error.  First I'd attach one crank arm and get the nut finger tight.  Then I'd put the second on where I thought it should be, take it off and put it on one tooth away from that, then try again in the other direction.  I can't help but imagine that (as Ehryk mentioned) when it's wrong, it would be very obviously wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I was satisfied with that, I'd line up one of the arms with the seat post or the down tube, take a few steps back, and eyeball it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1380" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T19:32:05.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-24T19:48:24.843" Score="0" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3062/how-can-i-tell-which-size-chain-my-bike-uses&quot;&gt;How can I tell which size chain my bike uses?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a vintage Ross road bike, and the chain recently snapped during one of my rides.&#xA;The bike has 2 gears in the front and 5 in the back. Making that a 10 speed bike?&#xA;What affordable bike chain can I buy to replace the snapped one? And should I be looking at 10 speed chains? Or would a 9 speed suffice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3955" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T20:42:34.910" Title="What sort of bike chain do I need for my bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-04-25T03:55:07.020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19131" CreationDate="2012-04-24T20:25:17.933" Score="5" ViewCount="7128" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there tugnuts meant to fit forward facing horizontal dropouts such as those on a Surly Cross Check, All City Space Horse, or Salsa Cassaroll which won't block rack and fender bosses and keep wheel from sliding forward during heavy pedaling or skid stopping on fixed gear setups?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T19:57:35.737" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T21:56:49.647" Title="Are there tugnuts made to fit forward facing horizontal dropouts?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9122" CreationDate="2012-04-24T22:02:28.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the comments that say that chain wear governs.  But be sure to test after changing the chain for skipping.  Put the chain on the cogs you use the most and pedal vigorously.  It will be obvious if the casette needs replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T22:02:28.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9150" CreationDate="2012-04-25T02:33:48.073" Score="9" ViewCount="7664" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't know any better and I let degreaser drip into the freewheel body of my &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/FH/EV-FH-RM65-2535A_v1_m56577569830728365.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano FH-RM65&lt;/a&gt;. Now it makes a terrible retching noise when it rotates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I clean the inside of this thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5FcOA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano FH-RM65 Y-3CT 98040 Complete Freewheel body with Right Hand Dust Cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QKeiK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano FH-RM65 Y-3CT 98040 Complete Freewheel body with Right Hand Dust Cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid to put load on it until it sounds quiet and happy again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1164" LastActivityDate="2019-04-27T05:05:54.967" Title="How do I clean the inside of a freehub?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9149" CreationDate="2012-04-25T02:45:42.660" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;That particular Shimano freehub can be disassembled, but it is quite a job to get it back together afterward. There are around 80 2mm bearings in two different locations in the freehub, and a skilled and practiced mechanic has roughly a 60% chance of opening without losing parts, and successfully getting it back together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is, there is a tool to lubricate the inside of a freehub, without disassembling it. It's called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morningstartools.com/Pages/FreehubBuddy.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Freehub Buddy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7uy9r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Freehub Buddy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo shows the Freehub buddy, next to a freehub with a cutaway so you can see the rows of bearings I mentioned earlier, a tube of soup lube, and 2 new reusable seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://morningstartools.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Morningstar tools&lt;/a&gt;, and works very well. You will also need &lt;a href=&quot;http://morningstartools.com/Pages/SoupLube.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the proper lubricant&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://morningstartools.com/Pages/ReusableDustShields.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;new exterior seals&lt;/a&gt; for the freehub. Both can be purchased from &lt;a href=&quot;http://morningstartools.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Morningstar tools&lt;/a&gt; as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to simply replace the freehub, which should be readily available at your LBS, for about $20. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-26T03:51:07.227" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T03:51:07.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9146" CreationDate="2012-04-25T03:04:12.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a BMX chain tensioner, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&amp;amp;biw=1366&amp;amp;bih=667&amp;amp;gbv=2&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbnid=HDjfxOGEr9CMqM:&amp;amp;imgrefurl=http://www.cyclingcloseouts.com/Departments/Components/Chain/Chain-Tensioners/Chain-Tensioners.aspx&amp;amp;docid=Vl2BITtwwYIsjM&amp;amp;imgurl=http://www.cyclingcloseouts.com/images/products/large/CH7001.jpg&amp;amp;w=350&amp;amp;h=324&amp;amp;ei=P2iXT91Y0rraBcralZMO&amp;amp;zoom=1&amp;amp;iact=hc&amp;amp;vpx=923&amp;amp;vpy=340&amp;amp;dur=170&amp;amp;hovh=216&amp;amp;hovw=233&amp;amp;tx=134&amp;amp;ty=114&amp;amp;sig=113717500122418093100&amp;amp;page=1&amp;amp;tbnh=145&amp;amp;tbnw=157&amp;amp;start=0&amp;amp;ndsp=17&amp;amp;ved=1t:429,r:15,s:0,i:102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, reversed, on some dropouts, but you will need to find one that works with your particular frame and dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing designed for that purpose which I am aware of. However, If you are using proper torque, and proper track nuts, or nuts with washers, your wheel should not move in the dropout, with or without a tensioner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tensioners are designed to make it easier to align the wheel, and get proper tension on the chain, not to keep the wheel from slipping in the dropout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wheel is slipping in the dropout, then there is something else wrong, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/86q9b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T03:04:12.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9100" CreationDate="2012-04-25T05:34:42.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In asking, you should specify whether you use cleats or not. When riding with cleats, and while sitting, you - at least I - use the seat post as counter leverage. In these cases, you will put part of you work into the seat post's damping. &#xA;Without cleats, I see little proof that damping, probably accompanied by variation in position and corresponding levers, necessarily costs more energy. If this is the case, I like to see at which position in the cycling movement where this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T05:34:42.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9042" CreationDate="2012-04-25T09:47:18.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saddle width needs to match the width of your &quot;sit bones&quot; plus maybe a centimeter. Get yourself measured and get the correct width saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry. You'll have to find a LBS with a measuring device, or keep researching to find your width. There no relation to the width of your butt - it's the bones that you sit on that are on the saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, if the saddle is too narrow you'll shift around as described above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The start point for the saddle is exactly level, centered on the rails. so , start there, and adjust in small increments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope these few tips help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3958" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T09:47:18.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9274" CreationDate="2012-04-25T12:14:42.010" Score="3" ViewCount="641" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my wife gets done with a long ride she finds that her right oblique hurts, while her left does not.  Does anyone know a possible cause of this, like improper form or saddle fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2528" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T19:24:32.647" Title="Cause of Oblique Pain" Tags="&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-25T21:49:10.710" Score="13" ViewCount="5135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Supernova E3 Pro powered by a Shimano hub generator, and I would like to add the ability to charge USB-powered gadgets. My main concern, however, is that simply wiring up a charger in parallel to the lights would result in dimmer lighting at slower speeds (I already notice a decrease in brightness going up a steep hill when I'm tired).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to wire things up so that the lights get priority, and charging only occurs when there is excess power available? Perhaps by using some circuit that would only provide power to the charger when the dynamo voltage exceeds a certain point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3960" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T17:05:22.217" Title="Using hub-dynamo for both lights and charging, with priority on lighting" Tags="&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9155" CreationDate="2012-04-25T22:22:40.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you will find that most of the chargers that run off hub dynamos take this into account. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/reecharge-power-pack&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/reecharge-power-pack&lt;/a&gt; in the (pdf) manual say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ReeCharge is charging when the green light on the side of the&#xA;  ReeCharge is lit. NOTE: The green light is only on when the wheel&#xA;  rotates fast enough to provide the ReeCharge with a current for&#xA;  charging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your position I would buy one of the charging setups and see how it works in practice. If there's a problem, you will need to add a voltage sensing switch. Either way, you need to buy the charger so there's no harm buying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A voltage sensing switch is easy enough to make, either using a zener diode or just a voltage divider into the gate of a transistor. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Voltage-Controlled-Switch-1/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Voltage-Controlled-Switch-1/&lt;/a&gt; is one example (but without a bigger transistor on the output that will not handle the current your charger uses). I would go with the simpler approach of buying a power transistor that can handle the 500mA your dynamo puts out, the 15V or so maximum it's likely to put out. Use a variable resistor to work out what voltage divider ratio I need to make it work, then substitute a pair of resistors in the final version. That's 3 components and it should be easy enough to put them in heat-shrink or epoxy to make them weatherproof. You'll probably pay as much for the connectors as the components :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T22:22:40.033" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9155" CreationDate="2012-04-25T22:38:07.990" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way would be to use a low-dropout voltage regulator. You &lt;em&gt;SHOULD&lt;/em&gt; regulate the voltage to a stable 5 volts anyway, because you can hurt some electronics by providing them lower voltage than the expected 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, you can't just go get any old voltage regulator, because most have a dropout voltage of 2v - 2.5v above their target, meaning they would require 7v to 7.5v to give you a stable 5v.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is a LDO, Low Dropout Voltage Regulator. The KA278 2A regulator is more than enough, and you don't connect anything to the adjustment pin to get a stable 5v. They dropout at 5.5v, meaning they don't put out any power when the voltage is lower than this. The Shimano DH-3N70 provides a nominal 6v, so you'd only be providing USB power at just under nomial voltage. Here's a link to 4 for about $5 on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/KA278-2A-LDO-Low-Dropout-Regulator-Adjustable-or-5V-x4-/170639684466?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item27baeaf372#ht_2709wt_1037&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eBay&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vt4B0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;KA278&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all being said, you may not end up providing that much charge from this setup, so be forewarned if your electronics don't seem to benefit from this setup. However, I'd strongly advise against hooking it directly either, some electronics are easily fried by throwing variable voltages through their USB (5v) charging port. If your light has an off switch, then by switching the light off you can make sure you get charging when you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be advised that most phones require between 500mA and 1A (iPhones won't charge with less than 1A), which at 5V = 5 Watts of power. Your dynamo only puts out 3 Watts of power, and at 6V = 0.5A. 0.5A * 5V = 2.5 Watts of effective 5V output, so don't be expecting to charge your iPhone even with the light off. Most Androids take between 500mA and 900mA, but will allow the charging to occur slower with less wattage, where iPhones will not charge at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-18T17:05:22.217" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T17:05:22.217" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-25T22:48:45.027" Score="19" ViewCount="45799" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone recently told me that if I replace my cassette I need to replace my chain (and vice versa) so that they wear evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? And, can anyone elaborate on the reasoning for this a bit more? Why is it important for them to wear evenly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does this not apply to the front chainring? Or does it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T22:36:43.940" Title="Do cassettes and chains need to be replaced at the same time?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9163" CreationDate="2012-04-25T22:52:32.587" Score="9" ViewCount="62417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a 9 speed 11-25T cassette on my road bike. I'm thinking about switching to a different cassette with more teeth on the climbing gear. The cassette I'm currently look at is a Shimano CS-5700 10 Speed Cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I swap my cassette from 9 speed to 10 speed without swapping my rear derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a 10 speed cassette wider than a 9 speed cassette or is the spacing between the gears wider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I just need to adjust the wire tension in order to alter how much the derailleur moves when shifting in order to accommodate for the difference in spacing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T23:59:38.730" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T11:23:10.810" Title="Can a road bike's rear derailleur be used for either a 9 speed cassette or 10 speed cassette?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9158" CreationDate="2012-04-26T00:04:49.957" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should always install a new chain (or have one that's pretty new already) when you install a new cassette.  But you can go through 5 or so chains on a single cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T00:04:49.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9158" CreationDate="2012-04-26T00:51:00.350" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A previous answer from mine to a similar question can be seen here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/7880/2355&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/7880/2355&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the essence is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain wears faster, and it causes the wear of the other components (cog and chainring);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain wears because there is friction between pins and inner plates, so the actual distance between pins increases due to lost material in the contact zone. Thus, the longer chain starts to climb the teeth on the gears, so that their tooth becomes ramped (&quot;shark tooth&quot;);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly worn chainrings rarely skip with new chains, and they end up &quot;matching&quot; the pitch of the new chain again. Slightly worn cogs might sometimes skip to the point it is very difficult to get mileage on them (pedalling very lightly) so that they recover. Also, currently most rings are aluminum, which is softer than the steel in the cogs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T00:51:00.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9159" CreationDate="2012-04-26T02:41:30.027" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spacing between 9 speed and 10 speed is controlled at the shift lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 10 speed rear dérailleur will work with a 9 or 10 speed cassette and shifter. A 9 speed rear dérailleur is not compatible with 10 speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The width of the chain and the cogs is the biggest issue. The pulleys on a 10 speed dérailleur are narrower, and a 10 speed chain will not rest correctly on the jockey pulleys of a 9 speed dérailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That does not mean it will not physically work, only that the shifting performance will be slow, you may drop gears unexpectedly, or have the chain skip unexpectedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, 10 speed should be 10 speed all the way throughout your bike for it to work consistently and properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cable tension has nothing to do with cog spacing. That is designed into the shift lever. It is not adjustable, except by replacing the shifter.&#xA;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-26T03:53:21.170" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T03:53:21.170" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9158" CreationDate="2012-04-26T02:50:40.217" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need to change your cassette with your chain due to damage, but only if your bike has missed out on some previous maintenance. If you ride one chain beyond the point of wear, it will damage both cassette and chain rings to different degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your chain is a consumable component on your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most people, 1200-1500 kilometers on a chain is a safe distance to ride it before it stretches enough to damage the cassette or chain rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you treat changing your chain like changing the oil in your car, and just do it based on mileage, regardless of the actual wear on the chain, then you can continue to use the same cassette through (on average) 5 chain swaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain rings, at least a good quality set, are thicker metal, with a larger diameter, so they don't wear as quickly.  Usually, I get 10 chain swaps before I need to change the chain rings.  But they will eventually need to be changed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T02:50:40.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5052" CreationDate="2012-04-26T02:58:24.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture, it looks like you have a friction shifter rather than an indexed shifter. Indexed shifters click, and friction shifters move smoothly. For a rear derailleur, you would almost always want indexed shifting because the cogs are so close together. For a crankset with 3 chainrings, friction shifting can be handy for fine-tuning the position of the front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T02:58:24.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-26T06:45:50.843" Score="2" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think my bottom bracket has worn and I would like to replace it.  I was looking at the Shimano 105 BB.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2009&amp;amp;Brand=Specialized&amp;amp;Model=Roubaix%20Elite%20C2&amp;amp;Type=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;BikePedia&quot;&gt;BikePedia&lt;/a&gt; lists the size as 68mm, which is fine, but there seems to be another dimension.  I can get &lt;code&gt;68 x 109 mm&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;68 x 118 mm&lt;/code&gt;.  Is it possible to work out which size I need without removing the current BB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I'm not sure which of the below answers is correct.  In the end I bought a SM-BB6700 Bottom Bracket BC1.37 which worked fine (techdocs &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Ultegra/SI_1LM0A_001/SI-1LM0A-001-ENG_v1_m56577569830671289.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3965" LastEditorUserId="3965" LastEditDate="2012-11-24T05:48:57.750" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T05:48:57.750" Title="Bottom Bracket Size for Specialized Roubaix Elite C2 2009" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9166" CreationDate="2012-04-26T08:15:04.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is best to remove your current bottom bracket to check, but as a rule of thumb, a triple (3 gear) front crank uses a 118mm. A double (2 gear) front crank uses a 109mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T08:15:04.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-26T09:54:59.363" Score="3" ViewCount="2495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a few people, specially bike messengers that use a main lock to secure their bike to a post/fence/etc. but also have a second smaller one to lock the other wheel around the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is a good option for this second lock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3968" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T04:07:35.973" Title="What's a good second lock option for around the frame and wheel?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9166" CreationDate="2012-04-26T11:36:54.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's nominally the distance from one end of the shaft to the other, with the cranks removed (though there can be a 1-2mm variation).  You can rig a caliper to measure it with the cartridge in place, or you can &quot;eyeball&quot; it with a ruler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But once you have the cranks removed it's not that big a deal to remove the cartridge.  (Still a little tricky to measure with the cartridge removed, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T11:36:54.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9175" CreationDate="2012-04-26T12:54:58.040" Score="7" ViewCount="7279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was diagnosed with lumbar spinal disc herniation and told that I should exercise. I always liked biking, so I want to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an older rigid mountain-bike and will be mostly driving on asphalt bike-roads. I know I should pay attention to bumps, so I stand up and use my legs and arms to take the hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any more precautions I should take or things to avoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3971" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T00:55:26.507" Title="Biking with spinal disc herniation" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9159" CreationDate="2012-04-26T13:06:17.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The derailleur itself does not have any say on how many sprockets you can use or the distance between them, it is only limited by how close or how far away from the dropout it can get. For the most part you could probably use the same derailleur, but you might need to adjust the high and low limiting screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real problem is with the shifter. Back in the old days, they only had friction shifters where you, the rider, had to fine tune the location of the derailleur by yourself. If you have that kind of shifter there is no problem. If you have a modern indexing style shifter where you just click a button and it jumps to the location for you then you might have to do a bit of tweaking or totally replace the shifter. Adjusting the cable only fine tunes the alignment of the derailleur to the sprocket and has almost nothing to do with the number of sprockets you can use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, before you do anything, check to see if your rear forks are wide enough to take an extra sprocket. You might even need to change the rear wheel altogether. I would take it into a bike shop and let them take a look at it. If they are worth buying from, they will give you some straight advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T13:06:17.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9168" CreationDate="2012-04-26T14:16:15.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, you can lock your bike and both wheels with just a small U-lock and a cable. Start by locking your bike according to Sheldon's strategy (through the part of the rear rim that's inside the rear triangle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.sheldonbrown.com/images/locktechnique1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then loop the cable around your front wheel, hooking both ends around the U-lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:14.543" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T14:16:15.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9168" CreationDate="2012-04-26T14:31:54.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a lock from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinheadcomponents.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pinheadcomponents.com/&lt;/a&gt; instead of having a Quick Release: so the wheels are already locked to the bike, and I needn't carry a secondary lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T14:31:54.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9171" CreationDate="2012-04-26T17:22:46.907" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be very to-the-point, in your situation I would first consider the following two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rise/exchange your handlebar to leave it at least some 8 inches above the saddle height;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a good quality suspension seatpost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have studied medicine (and have a little back pain, also), so the rationale is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOMKQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This figure illustrates a part of the lumbar spine, as would be seen if the rider was passing from right to left on the bike (left is front, right is back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rising the handlebar would allow you to be more erect, thus making the upper vertebrae rotate backwards (clockwise in the figure) over the lower vertebrae. Since this rotation is articulated a bit behind the midline, there is a decompression of the discs (blue and red, with red being herniae and blue being normal disc tissue);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since your bar is now higher, a greater part of your body weight is supported by your back/buttocks. Using a suspended seatpost - a relatively lowcost, minimal modification on your current rigid bike - helps avoding unpredicted/unavoidable impact, which is a main causation factor of hernia inflamation and/or progression, due to the sudden rises on internal disc pressure associated with impact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't enjoy very much the feeling of sprung saddles (I have a Brooks Flyer), and I think that's because they pivot around the nose, thus bending the lower back and pelvis while going down, in a flexing motion. Seatposts, on the other side, have a translation movement, without pelvis rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having ridden some suspended-seatpost-equipped bikes, I can say one thing: they are awesome! And since you have a condition, thus are probably not wanting to become world champion anymore, the minimal, questionable performance decrease is overwhelmed by the very significant gains in comfort and health risk reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T17:22:46.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9168" CreationDate="2012-04-26T17:23:58.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005F3GZTM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Abus Granit Futura 64 Mini Shackle Bicycle U Lock - 150mm&lt;/a&gt;.  It's lighter than most U locks with a &quot;11 Level&quot; security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastEditorUserId="499" LastEditDate="2012-04-26T17:38:02.963" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T17:38:02.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9168" CreationDate="2012-04-26T18:38:39.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Ulock the frame and use a cable like the kryptoflex &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1001&amp;amp;scid=1001&amp;amp;pid=1124&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/products/ProductDetail.aspx?cid=1001&amp;amp;scid=1001&amp;amp;pid=1124&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Ulock the frame and use security skewers like pitlocks or hublox&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pitlock.com/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;http://www.deltacycle.com/Hublox-Security-Skewers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Buy another ulock and double lock your bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Go european and get a ring lock for one of the wheels and secure the other with the ulock. I'm not sure if you can mount a ring lock on the front, so you would probably need to secure the front with the ulock.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amsterdambikesusa.com/products-page/locks/axa-defender-rl-black/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.amsterdambikesusa.com/products-page/locks/axa-defender-rl-black/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to prefer to use set of good security skewers with a ulock mostly for the convenience of carrying less stuff. Allen key skewers are also available but don't provide as much protection as specially keyed skewers like pitlocks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T18:38:39.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8214" CreationDate="2012-04-26T19:39:30.647" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I still need to play with it a bit, but I'm currently doing pretty much what heltonbiker suggested - bungee-ing the wheel of the kids bike to the rear rack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4kzw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tandem with kid bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top of the kids bike wheel is strapped to the rack, and the front of the wheel is strapped to the frame of the towing bike.  You can't see it clearly in the pictures, but the fork of the kids bike sits against the rear stay of the rack, so pulling the front of the wheel into the frame of the tow bike keeps the wheel away from the wheel of the towing bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another variation that worked quite well has been to use a metal hook (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70011397/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar to this&lt;/a&gt;, but one side is large enough to fit the wheel) to hang the wheel of the kids bike from the rack, then a couple bungee cords to hold it tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Closer view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EwGjy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works well enough for my purposes, but it's not perfect.  Because it's the wheel of the kids bike that's strapped to the rack, there is some freedom for the rear of the kids bike to move up and down, which is good.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But because the bike is tipped up and off-center, &lt;em&gt;interesting&lt;/em&gt; things happen going around corners.  Turning to the left, no problem.  Turning to the right... the rear wheel of the kids bike &quot;flops&quot; to the right and ends up about a foot off-center to the right.  It comes back inline with the towing bike when you straighten up, but you have to have the cranks in the position shown so they don't come close to the wheel of the tow bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue that came up after I actually tried it with my kid on the back of the tandem is that the kids bike has to be attached as far back as possible on the rack to give enough clearance for the stoker's heel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastEditorUserId="2302" LastEditDate="2012-05-05T02:56:56.807" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T02:56:56.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1013" CreationDate="2012-04-26T19:59:36.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old question of mine from the early days of bicycles.stackexchange, and I never really felt that there was an optimal answer. So, here's another shot at it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of recent tweets by &lt;a href=&quot;http://joefriel.typepad.com/blog/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joe Friel&lt;/a&gt;... (FYI - Joe Friel is an endurance sports coach best known as an elite triathlon and cycling coach as well as the author of several books on endurance sports.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;As you age the more important workout intensity and strength training become. Unfortunately, most aging athletes do the opposite.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;What we call “aging” is really a sign of disuse &amp;amp; misuse. Most people age much too quickly. Exercise &amp;amp; nutrition are the keys.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a bit of searching on Friel's site and found &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2011/11/q-a-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an excellent article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that pretty explicitly answers my original question. To paraphrase and summarize, here are the key factors that the aging cyclist (athlete) needs to be mindful of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Workout Intensity - As one ages, there is a tendency to increase workout duration and reduce intensity. It is beneficial to workout at relatively high intensity levels with the emphasis on muscular endurance, anaerobic endurance and sprint power. Higher intensity reduces workout time and helps maintain muscle mass. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strength Training - There is considerable research indicating that strength training is highly beneficial to the maintenance of bone density and muscle mass. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sleep - As one ages, the recovery time from exertion increases. Good sleep and rest are vital to allow the body to recover from physical stress and exertion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nutrition - Quality nutrition is key, featuring micronutrient rich fruits, vegetables, and animal protein. Additionally, consuming sugars during a long, intense workout; and starch for recovery following the workout. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to finish off, here's a quote from &lt;em&gt;Middle Age: A Natural History&lt;/em&gt; by David Bainbridge, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The average man's body fat rises from 23 per cent to 29 per cent over the fifth and sixth decades of his life, while women's will reach 38 per cent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, keep on riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-04-27T00:43:09.057" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T00:43:09.057" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-04-26T19:59:36.783" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1013" CreationDate="2012-04-27T00:32:13.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can add one thing:  It is possible to exercise a muscle beyond it's metabolic capacity and cause serious muscle injury as a result.  This happens with non-trivial frequency in sports &quot;boot camp&quot; environments where the participants will be run ragged all day with insufficient food, then subjected to, eg, intense squatting exercises.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, muscles do not expend energy when they contract, but rather the energy is expended when the muscles &quot;reset&quot;.  If the muscles contract and then it turns out that there is not enough available glucose, et al, to reset them, the muscle cells &quot;depolarize&quot; and die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;boot camp&quot; scenario this results in intense muscle pain in the major muscles of the legs, followed by &quot;rhabdomyolysis&quot; -- the breakdown of muscle -- and &quot;myoblobinuria&quot; -- the excretion of the breakdown products in the urine (seen as a rust-colored sediment -- myoglobin -- in the urine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In young, healty people there is generally enough &quot;reserve&quot; muscle that, though this injury is effectively permanent, it does not result in any noticeable disability.  (However, the myoglobinuria can result in serious kidney damage, and there is a secondary condition where the damaged muscles of the leg swell up and constrict that can also be quite serious.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In older people, however, especially those on statin drugs and some diabetes meds, the resulting injury itself can be significant and life changing, especially if repeated several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The injury is most apt to occur in situations such as a relatively long, intense climb near the end of several hours of cycling, but can occur in shorter episodes of intense energy expenditure.  The symptom will be a &quot;muscle pull&quot; type pain that doesn't appear until about 36 hours after the exercise (in fact, long enough removed that the individual may not associate the pain with the prior activity).  And, where a regular &quot;muscle pull&quot; usually clears up in 3-6 weeks, the rhabdo injury remains painful for 3-6 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T00:32:13.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9168" CreationDate="2012-04-27T04:07:35.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me throw out my &quot;modified&quot; Sheldon Brown method: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T04:07:35.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9183" CreationDate="2012-04-27T14:52:26.050" Score="6" ViewCount="5061" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has 53/39T chainrings and a cassette with 12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25 sprockets, but I like to ride up steep mountain roads. Is it possible (without great expense) to replace two sprockets to make it a little easier to spin instead of mash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rear derailleur is a Shimano RD-6500. I tried checking online, but I couldn't find a clear description of what the maximum sprocket size it supports is. Would it be practical to replace, say, the 23T sprocket with a 24T and the 25T with a 27T?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there something else I should be considering to make the gearing a little more friendly for spinning on steep roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T21:23:16.140" Title="Is it practical to replace two sprockets on a cassette?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9182" CreationDate="2012-04-27T15:28:37.890" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you will need to get a whole new cassette, the largest 3 rings are connected to each other, you cannot just purchase individual cogs. You may want to get a new chain as you will probably need to make a chain length change with jumping from a 25T to 27T or 28T largest cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know if you have the SS or the GS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the SS (short cage) you can go as big as 28T, Shimano sells a 12-28 cassette.&#xA;With the GS (long cage) you can go as big as 27T, look for a 12-27 cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option for easier spinning is a new compact crankset, Shimano comes as a 34/50, but you give up high end speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added screenshot of the relevant tech info for the RD-6500. Hope it's helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i1cH5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Snip of Shimano RD-6500 Tech Docs&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the derailleur has the capacity for 28t as an SS derailleur, Shimano never produced a 9 speed 28t cog. Therefore, as a practical matter, the 27t is the largest option available for the RD-6500 Ultegra 9 speed derailleur from Shimano. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.interlocracing.com/cassettes_steel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cassettes available from Interloc Racing Design&lt;/a&gt; which fill this missed niche.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qf1Fq.png&quot; alt=&quot;CS-6500 cassette options&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-04-27T20:41:58.253" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T20:41:58.253" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1689" CreationDate="2012-04-27T20:11:20.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My app &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.iforpowell.android.ipbike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;IpBike&lt;/a&gt; Is designed for a phone mouted on the bike, the emphesis on giving you all the information in a clear and consistant way on one basic screen while riding.  Has full support for ANT+ sensors HR, speed, Cadence Speed and Cadance and Power sensors on compatible phones.  Pressure based altitude of compatible phones.  Direct upload for Stava, Runkeeper and Attackpoint.  Can export rides as .gpx, .tcx, .csv, .fit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7W0aW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Main displat with speed cadence and Heart rate.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFd3X.png&quot; alt=&quot;Map option with cyceling specific OSM map tiles that can be precached for offline use.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3723" LastEditorUserId="3723" LastEditDate="2012-04-27T20:39:29.907" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T20:39:29.907" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-04-27T20:11:20.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9257" CreationDate="2012-04-27T21:01:52.300" Score="4" ViewCount="4929" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Scott Foil Premium is the highest end frame available from Scott Sports, and it is designed to run an electronic drive train, routed internally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original reports were that this frame would be available to run either a mechanical or electronic drive train, but that information appears to no longer be available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to run mechanical Campagnolo Super Record on this frame. The question is, does the frame have the necessary cable routing and cable stops for a mechanical drivetrain, or is it electronic &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in the Foil Premium, in part because of the graphic design, but I don't want to order the frame, and then find out I can't run the drive train I want. I could play safe and order the Team Issue, but I don't like the color as well, and I may want to run electronic at some future date, so I like the flexibility of the Foil Premium, if it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aq2rz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scott Foil Premium&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will likely take a physical examination of the frame to answer this question accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eX6Mb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scott Foil Team Issue&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the Scott Foil Team Issue, which is designed for mechanical shifting, for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T08:05:38.540" Title="Is it possible to run standard mechanical shifting on a Scott Foil Premium frame?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;best-practice&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9018" CreationDate="2012-04-27T21:05:22.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it happens, I had to use the last resort. Dimensions are 30mm length x 5mm diameter for the alloy portion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;350mm length x 2.5mm diameter for the yellow portion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a 3.5 degree angle for the nipple seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T21:05:22.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2012-04-28T15:43:55.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The average speeds that can be attained on a road bike (or any bike) are determined by several factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance covered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road surface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Equipment, meaning the bike and components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terrain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Age and fitness of the cyclist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teamwork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on observation and considering all that, on primarily flat, non-windy, terrain, on a decent road bike, my estimates would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Novice cyclist - a short distance (10-15 mi): 10 - 12 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Casual, fit, cyclist -  a short/medium distance (~25 mi): 15 - 16 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Average club cyclist/fitness cyclist - a medium distance (+/-40 mi): 16 - 19 mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Experienced club cyclist/amateur racer - a medium/long distance (+/-55 mi): 20+ mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pro cyclist - long distances: 25+ mph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Anecdotally...&lt;/em&gt; on one of my frequent rides through some farmland, there is a 12 mile, mostly flat stretch. With a tailwind, I'm a pro. A headwind, I'm a novice. With no wind, I'm somewhere in between, depending on the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Another anecdote...&lt;/em&gt; In my area I frequently use a particular paved bike path on both a road and mtn bike, mainly because it leads to a park full of single-track, and beyond that to nice countryside for road cycling. Anyway, I have 8 years of ride data for that route. Along that path there is a 6 mile, flat open, stretch that was repaved 2 years ago; originally it was very rough, chunky asphalt and upon repaving it was converted to very smooth asphalt. Lo and behold, after the repaving, my average speed on both bikes jumped up ~4 mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T19:23:43.357" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T19:23:43.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-28T22:57:55.367" Score="3" ViewCount="1570" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some possibilities, which I haven't tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try to bend it back into shape with my hands while still mounted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take off the rotor, sandwich it between a couple of wooden blocks, put some weight on it and leave it for a night&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3982" LastActivityDate="2012-04-28T23:30:31.913" Title="How can I unbend, straighten or flatten a bent rotor?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9189" CreationDate="2012-04-28T23:30:31.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a Park DT-2 rotor tool or something similar.I've used a large adjustable wrench with mixed results.Usually the larger the clearance between the pads and rotor the more forgiveing it will be to the rotor being a little off.I leave the wheel mounted,spin it to find the high spot .Then tighten the wrench on to the rotor and flex gently to straighten the rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-04-28T23:30:31.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-29T02:46:13.657" Score="-4" ViewCount="2208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a 44 year-old male, fast-recreational cyclist -- about 6,000 miles/yr. -- who has used a heart rate monitor on and off for nearly 15 years.  Quite honestly, I find it kind of aggravating, as it often seems like my heart knows what I want to do and refuses to do it!  If trying to do a &quot;recovery ride&quot; my HR can rise so easily that its next to impossible to stay in the recovery zone, yet, when trying to do intervals, I often struggle to get to 150 BPM.  I recently got an indoor trainer which had a built in power meter.  (My first time using one.)  Out of curiosity, this past week I decided that everyday, I would ride at a steady 200 watts -- which seems to be upper endurance or lower tempo zone for me -- for a while to see how it correlates to my heart rate.  While I'm fully aware of how HR varies for numerous reasons, even I was surprised that my HR ranged from 123 BPM to 152 BPM for that same effort!  (And both those reading were on consecutive days.)  I don't do anything really structured, but have recently been following the basic concepts of the CTS training routines.  (Doing their &quot;field test&quot; -- which ranged from 148 - 164 BPM for my tests -- then setting my zones accordingly.)  Now, how in the heck am I supposed to do something like CTS's &quot;climbing repeat intervals&quot; -- which has a range of just 4 BPM -- if my HR varies by as much as THIRTY BPM for a given effort?!?!  (Yes, I realize a power meter on a trainer may not be 100% accurate, but still.)  In fact, if my HR varies that much, wouldn't that mean that, most of the time, while doing a &quot;climbing repeat,&quot; I wouldn't be at the correct intensity, even if I strictly adhered to the &quot;correct&quot; HR zone?  (I tried getting an LT test at the CTS Lab, but that failed . . . they couldn't draw enough blood to get accurate readings.)  Looking back at my training logs, it seems I may have ridden better when just riding by feel. At the least, it was more enjoyable riding that way, rather than always struggling to stay in a prescribed zone.  (&quot;Oh, slow down, my HR is too high . . . wait, now it's too low, pick up the pace ... too high . . . too low . . . too high . . . &quot;) Would I be better off going back to that? (I still had some structure, in terms of &quot;recovery,&quot; &quot;endurance,&quot; and &quot;interval&quot; days.  I just didn't check or worry about being at a specific HR.)  A power meter would be nice, but unless the prices came WAY down, forget it!  If I do stay with the HR zone training, should I adjust the zones on a daily basis, based on whether my HR is high or low?  (It becomes quickly apparent to me if its high or low.  But the only way I would know by how much is to check on the indoor trainer before the ride.)   But, hey, Eddy Merckx never used a heart rate monitor.  Seems like he didn't do too bad . . . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3675" LastEditorUserId="3675" LastEditDate="2012-04-29T02:52:00.900" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T04:02:33.650" Title="Is training by heart rate really a good thing?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2012-04-29T14:56:05.057" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2012-04-29T03:31:51.273" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tarp that fully covers a bike can provide some insulation and keep out precipitation. Don't buy a &quot;bike cover&quot;; they're overpriced, thin, and non-customizable.  For an average-sized bike, an 8' by 10' (2.4 m by 3 m) tarp is enough to just reach to the ground. A weight of around 6 oz per square yard (0.2 kg/m²), or a thickness of around 8 mils (0.2 mm), seems to be ideal (standard tarps are around 3 oz per square yard (0.1 kg/m²) and 5 mils (0.13 mm) thick). In theory, silver colored tarps reflect more infrared than other colors and are better for insulation, but I'm not sure how much of a difference this makes in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most important things to look out for in a tarp is that the grommets are spaced no more than 18 inches (46 cm) apart. You can bunch up all of the grommets along each short end of the tarp and use cable ties to semi-permanently join these grommets. This gives the tarp a fitted shape and makes it fit nicely around the wheels. A good starting point is joining all of the grommets along each short end to a single point. Once you've tried this, you can experiment with tying grommets together in various configurations with cable ties to see if you get a better fit for your bike. You can also tie grommets to a bike rack, which can make it easier to get the bike in and out if you're riding it daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following picture shows a fitted tarp on a bike. On the near side, the four middle grommets are tied together at a point, and the remaining two grommets (at the corners) are tied at a point just below. On the far side, all six grommets are tied together at a point and tied to the bike rack. The long sides of the tarp in the picture are folded in a bit; without folding, they just reach to the ground. With grommets spaced 18 inches (46 cm) apart, you have flexibility to customize the fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VpjXq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A fitted tarp on a bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In summary&lt;/strong&gt;, if you get a tarp, get one with the following specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 by 10 feet (2.4 m × 3 m)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at least 6 oz per square yard (0.2 kg/m²) or 8 mils (0.2 mm) thick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grommets spaced no more than 18 inches (46 cm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;silver color (?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then tie grommets together with cable ties to give it a fitted shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I've been using this for a while, I've noticed that air flow doesn't seem to be much of a problem in practice, so I usually let the sides of the tarp reach to the ground. The tarp is stiff enough that there are always a few small openings where air can get in and out but water can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2017-03-29T20:53:20.617" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T20:53:20.617" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9191" CreationDate="2012-04-29T04:02:11.190" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your description of your issues with heart rate training, I'd be willing to bet that you are training daily, or without enough rest days between sessions, and that you are training above your cardio fitness level.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a need to train to a goal, rather than just ride, try dropping the intensity of your training down a level, and make sure that you follow a good rest day schedule as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our bodies don't gain during exercise. Exercise breaks us down. The gains come in the rest periods after exercise, when your body recognizes that it's been put through the ringer, and builds up to a peak that will support the new level of effort that is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that this peak effort stage only lasts a short period of time before your body goes back to what it's used to, and it's tricky to figure out that recovery period for yourself. The key is that if you exercise again at that recovery point, and then have a rest period, then you will make gains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push yourself again too early, and you prevent the build up from happening. Wait too long, and the gains are gone before you build on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this relevant to your question? Because if you are seeing very different heart rates (especially higher rates) on the same course and level of effort over 2 consecutive days, then your body isn't finished with its building stage.  You needed more rest before you push it again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, I make the most gains when I ride hard, and then rest 2 days, another hard effort, then rest one day. Light effort, one day rest. Hard effort, 2 days rest. And so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, and this is key, &lt;strong&gt;it's different for everyone&lt;/strong&gt;.  Following someone else's plan is good to figure out what works for you, but you will need to pay attention to the feedback your body gives you and modify accordingly. That feedback (at least in the cycling/training world) comes in the form of data from your heart rate and power meters, average speed, and perceived effort levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CTS has great training programs which are designed to be applicable to a lot of people. They may need to be modified to work well with your body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T04:02:11.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9191" CreationDate="2012-04-29T04:02:33.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This article may provide a bit of insight into some of the factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pfitzinger.com/labreports/heartrate.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pfitzinger.com/labreports/heartrate.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It's running-oriented, but applicable to cyclists as well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dehydration has a huge impact on my heart rate. I've seen it rise by 20 points or more when I'm badly dehydrated. Training within an hour or two of a meal also seems to raise my heart rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the range of heart rates you're seeing seems suspicious. Have you tried using another HRM to check the accuracy of yours? FWIW, my HRM (a Garmin 500) shows erratic results if the strap contacts are insufficiently moistened or badly positioned on my chest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T04:02:33.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9203" CreationDate="2012-04-29T15:46:06.097" Score="18" ViewCount="18804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at buying a pedal/shoe system as the clips and straps I am using are hurting my feet again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been a long time since I have bought a road pedal / shoe system, and I have forgotten the differences between SPDs, Look pedals and all the others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone give a short comparison of each pedal system with pros and cons of each? My usage is/will be mainly city street cycling and then road cycling (recreation, not racing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer if people would give the pros and cons of each and not their opinion on the &quot;pedal system war&quot;.  :) However, &quot;I use them because I find XYZ and it helps in ABC ways&quot; is very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T22:32:16.210" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T22:32:16.210" Title="Can someone give me a short description and comparison of the different road cycling pedal / shoe systems?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;spd&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18162" CreationDate="2012-04-29T15:48:59.977" Score="51" ViewCount="156388" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a recipe for a homemade bicycle degreaser solution? I'd like to make my own degreaser solution instead of buying one. I have read about using lemon juice and various types of alcohols - white spirits, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I should have actually explained I was looking for a homemade bicycle &lt;strong&gt;degreaser&lt;/strong&gt; liquid, not just &lt;strong&gt;cleaning&lt;/strong&gt; liquid. I have now edited the title and wording. Sorry for the wrong title.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastEditorUserId="2874" LastEditDate="2012-04-29T18:18:23.273" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T15:15:41.080" Title="Homemade bicycle degreaser liquids" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="27" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-29T15:51:39.583" Score="1" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when I am cycling I will try to do some stretching to alleviate some backpain. Usually I arch my back, or push into the pedal and straighten my leg and stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone do something similar? If so, can you share the stretches, exercises you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastEditorUserId="2874" LastEditDate="2012-04-29T16:41:32.710" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T18:52:24.473" Title="Exercises to do while cycling?" Tags="&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9196" CreationDate="2012-04-29T17:36:20.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the colourless, odorless liquid that comes out of taps and sometimes (often, where I am) falls from the sky...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond simply using a damp cloth, when I'm doing maintenance, I'll wipe off any grease or oil using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wd40.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WD-40&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://liquidwrench.com/products/#!/7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Liquid Wrench&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gunk.com/products/cat_PC_BC.asp?o=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brake Clean&lt;/a&gt; (whatever I have on hand for cleaning bolts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't have that brand of dish soap here, but I wouldn't hesitate to use something like that on a bike.  For people who are worried about harsh soaps, there's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.colgate.ca/app/Palmolive/CA/EN/HomePage.cwsp#Original&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Palmolive&lt;/a&gt;, which is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bEkq7JCbik&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;well-known for being very gentle.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastEditorUserId="2302" LastEditDate="2012-04-29T17:54:12.147" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T17:54:12.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9197" CreationDate="2012-04-29T18:52:24.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't experience pain on a well-fit bike. If you are finding that you have a lot of pain while cycling, you probably have one of two problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your bike doesn't fit right. Back pain probably indicates that the distance to your handlebars is too long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You didn't stretch well enough before hand or have aggravated an existing injury. You should probably get off the bike and relax a bit. Maybe talk to a doctor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T18:52:24.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9195" CreationDate="2012-04-29T22:10:08.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a large rider, I personally prefer Look pedal systems, as they have one of the larger platforms to connect my feet to the pedals. (SPD-R, and Speedplay potentially are getting closer in size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The classic SPD is nice on Mountain Bikes, as it hides nicely in the shoe sole (which Look most definitly does not) and you can walk in them off the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speedplay where most of the hardware is on the shoe, and the pedal itself is simplistic is also pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are the less common systems like Crank Brothers Egg Beaters and the like which focus on easier entry/exit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T02:17:07.493" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T02:17:07.493" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9195" CreationDate="2012-04-30T00:49:49.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride about 2500 miles per year, mostly road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one time, I used SPDs (Shimano SH-51), but I got knee pain from a misaligned cleat. In addition, I prefer to ride with my feet slightly pronated (heels in, toes out, like a duck), so I felt like I wanted more float from my cleats. SPD cleats offer around 5 degrees of float. Too, the shoes I had for SPDs were not stiff enough in the sole, so I was getting hot spots on longer rides. After 40-50 miles I couldn't wait to get off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched to Speedplay Zeros about 4000 miles ago, and I've been very satisfied. They offer a huge amount of float relative to SPDs (15 degrees, about three times as much). The cleats for Speedplays are not cheap ($40 vs. $20 for SPDs), and they do wear, but you can fight the wear to a certain extent with covers (http://www.keeponkovers.com/Product.html). The Speedplay cleats need to be lubed-- I use Pedro's Ice Wax-- and as a result they do pick up dirt, which, if you are careless, can make it harder to clip in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know riders who do three times the mileage that I ride, and they're good with SPDs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, all of the contact point stuff-- bars, saddle, shoes, pedals-- are a personal matter, and to a certain extent you need to find what works for you. The bars, saddle, shoes, and pedals that work for me may not be so good for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T00:49:49.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9196" CreationDate="2012-04-30T01:06:42.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A degreaser needs to contain either a solvent or an emulsifier or both.  Deionized water (not tap water) combined with citric acid works pretty well as an emulsifier for slightly greasy stuff (it's used for cleaning electronic components), but by itself is probably no match for, say, a greasy derailer.  There are other emulsifiers that are a bit stronger (including plain soap/detergent).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Petroleum solvents, of course, are pretty good at cutting petroleum-based grease, but pure petroleum solvents are environmentally unfriendly and don't do much for removing general grime.  Alcohol is not a particularly good solvent for petroleum products and hence not a very good degreaser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect a lot of modern commercial degreasers now contain an emulsifier plus a &quot;dash&quot; of solvent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt;  It's a trick of the solvent/degreaser business that a bit of emulsifier (ie, soap/detergent) will, in effect, allow oil and water to mix.  So one can take some water, soap, and a kerosene-like oil (in the proper proportions), mix them up, and end up with a reasonably good degreaser solution.  (Interestingly, regular &quot;axle grease&quot; is also such a combo of soap, oil, and water, though in different proportions, of course.  It's not simply the super-thick petroleum that many people believe.  The &quot;thickness&quot; is due to the soap.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2016-12-31T20:54:30.727" LastActivityDate="2016-12-31T20:54:30.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9195" CreationDate="2012-04-30T02:07:02.403" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;First up, I'd strongly recommend switching to clipless pedals. I had the same discomfort issues you're describing with normal shoes and toeclips and find clipless pedal so much more comfortable and secure (therefore safer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When comparing and evaluating clipless pedal systems, some of the more important attributes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Float - This is the property where the foot can swivel on the pedal while clipped in. Some pedals allow the float to be adjusted independently of the tightness, while other pedals have only a single adjustment for both. Also, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/845/clipless-pedals-float&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of entry - Some pedals require the pedal and cleat to be lined up carefully before the cleat can clip in. Others are orientation agnostic and a good stomp is usually enough to engage the cleat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compatibility with shoes - Most shoes have either the 2 bolt SPD pattern (typically mountain bike and more casual style shoes) or the 3 bolt SPD-SL pattern (typically lighter and more stripped down road shoes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Availability - How easy it is to buy parts, cleats and pedals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface area - The size of the contact point on the shoe. This can make a difference in how evenly the pressure of the pedal is distributed to the foot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walkability - How easy it is to walk while wearing the shoe with the cleat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These attributes for a number of different brands are compared in the table below.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H9rsn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Table of comparison&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Shimano SPD&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common style of commuter and mountain bike pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CMzJ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SPD Pedal&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aCbmK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SPD Cleat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Shimano SPD-SL&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common form of road bike pedals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FG9Qe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano SPD-SL&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Look Keo&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first popular road bike clipless pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGtJu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Look Keo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Speedplay&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speedplay pedal is becoming more popular with many professional riders now using it. One advantage is that there are no moving or wearable parts on the pedal, providing exceptional durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Z7lQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Speedplay pedal and cleat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Time Atac&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Time Atac is another mountain bike style pedal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8lL9X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Time Atac&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Time equipe&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time equipe is the road shoe style Time pedals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c8NlD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Time equipe&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fueND.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Time equipe cleat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Crank Bros Eggbeaters&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crank Bros Eggbeaters are commonly used on mountain bikes where their simple design is good at shedding mud. There is some question about the durability of the bearings, however replacement kits are available, making these pedals more repairable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7CbG1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank Bros Eggbeater&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uEcZF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank Bros cleat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T02:05:59.910" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2012-04-30T04:09:33.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference between a mountain bike and a road bike is gear ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other difference can be overcome. You can change tires, increase pressure, lock out your suspension, and use clipless pedals, but if you are on a typical mountain bike, your gearing will still limit you to a speed which is roughly 30% slower than the same effort will produce on a mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, the typical top end MTB gearing, with a 44t big ring and a 12t rear, and a typical cadence of 90 RPMs gives you a speed of 26 mph possible. See the chart below for the speed of each gear combination with a typical MTB gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/stGXP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Standard MTB gearing and Speed Chart @ 90RPM&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same cadence in the top gear of a compact double road bike, a 50 x 11 usually, gives a possible top speed of 33 mph, at the same level of effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DNqyd.png&quot; alt=&quot;Compact Double gearing and Speed Chart @ 90RPM&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard 53 x 12 is about 32 mph, with all else equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MjC7S.png&quot; alt=&quot;Standard Double gearing and Speed Chart @ 90RPM&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you need to be fit enough to maintain that pace. But since you're comparing the same levels of effort, that's a bit more than 2-3 miles an hour. More like 9 mph faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which on a 20 mile commute = 46 minutes on the MTB, versus 33 minutes on a road bike, at the same level of effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is strictly a matter of gearing and mechanical advantage, for a roughly 30% increase in speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, all of the math here assumes the same tire diameter, which is not typical. (See the Charts for complete and accurate differences, with crank lengths, tire size, and gear spread accounted for)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in wheel size alone, assuming high pressure slicks, is worth the 2 mph difference that @Gary.Ray claims in his answer above.  This last chart is identical to the MTB chart above, except I've changed the wheel and tire size to match a road bike. RPMs, gearing, and pressure are identical to the first MTB chart. The difference in gearing from the wheel size change is 2 MPH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bm9xd.png&quot; alt=&quot;MTB with 700c Wheels gearing and Speed Chart @ 90RPM&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the app I used to do the calculations and the charts here is called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bicycle-gear-head/id379858523?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gear Head&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, it's on the app store for iPhone and iPad, and it's the best tool I've found for these kinds of calculations. I like it, but I don't have any other connection to it, just for the record.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T04:09:33.313" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1103" CreationDate="2012-04-30T08:21:23.167" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've already answered this question, but this is a different answer; I've recently started using a website called &lt;a href=&quot;http://app.strava.com/&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt; (they do also have iPhone/Android apps as well as accepting GPX uploads which can be generated by many platforms and devices - I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gps.motionx.com/iphone/overview/&quot;&gt;MotionX-GPS&lt;/a&gt; for the iPhone). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their (I think unique) central point is to allow users to defined specific 'segments' of their ride and then anyone whose uploaded route passes over that segment is included in a virtual league table. This allows you to easily compare yourself to others over short routes, climbs, sprints and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as you cycle in reasonably populated areas, you'll be amazed at how many segments your ride already covers, at least around the London area, I was. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've no connection to the website, apart from being a satisfied, paying customer.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T08:21:23.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9159" CreationDate="2012-04-30T12:44:26.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a decade of riding, I rebuilt my bike, which came with Ultegra 9-speed shifters and derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced some parts, including the shifters. No new 9-speed shifters were available, so put on 10-speed Ultegras.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept the 9-speed rear derailleur in place. I took off the 9-speed cassette, put on a 10-speed cassette, and started riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worked fine — no adjustment needed! Go figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not had any problems in several years and many miles on this hybrid arrangement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3988" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T12:44:26.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9208" CreationDate="2012-04-30T15:13:19.447" Score="7" ViewCount="3701" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to buy bulk amounts of shifting/brake cable for road bikes? It would be nice to just have a spool of wire that you run onto your frame and then cut off only as much as you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Google search for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?rlz=1C1CHKZ_enUS441US441&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ix=sea&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;ion=1#hl=en&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHKZ_enUS441US441&amp;amp;output=search&amp;amp;sclient=psy-ab&amp;amp;q=bike%20cable%20spool&amp;amp;oq=&amp;amp;aq=&amp;amp;aqi=&amp;amp;aql=&amp;amp;gs_nf=&amp;amp;gs_l=&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;fp=160a46efcf63646c&amp;amp;ix=sea&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&amp;amp;biw=1040&amp;amp;bih=891&quot;&gt;bike cable spool&lt;/a&gt;&quot; doesn't really result in much, surprisingly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do bike shops deal with this? Surely they don't buy individual packs of cable for every bike do they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you can buy cable housing in bulk, so I was surprised when I couldn't find similar for just the cable...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T03:47:21.780" Title="Can you buy bulk shifting/brake cable for road bikes?" Tags="&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9207" CreationDate="2012-04-30T15:23:37.400" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem that you'll likely run into is the stop in the lever/shifter ends. I'm not aware of any systems that will accept bare cable at this end:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZGbt7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZGbt7m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cable Ends&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to pair your spool of wire with some sort of crimper (or go all out with some sort of mold/press), you could make your own - but investing $3,000 - $30,000 on some machine that melts metal on the end of the cables probably isn't worth your while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have much experience with bike shops (I buy most everything on eBay), but I would think they have boxes of these cables packaged in bulk like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmQHh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmQHh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bulk Cables&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="43557" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T03:47:21.780" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T03:47:21.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9207" CreationDate="2012-04-30T16:26:50.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bulk rolls of cut to fit cable housing are available. But only bulk quantities of precut cables are available, due to the cable ends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a home user, bulk purchase like this would last for many years service needs, and generally won't save a significant amount of money. Unless you are ordering parts for your local club, I would suggest buying what you need, when you need it, with maybe one backup set in the garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T16:26:50.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9212" CreationDate="2012-04-30T17:06:15.170" Score="10" ViewCount="12050" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for good software to help me map out routes that I have not done before and create cue sheets and probably also printable maps.  I plan to use this for my own rides, planning group rides, and maybe even alleycat routes.  Things like elevation profile would be nice too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optionally, this would also have a cue sheet viewer app available for my smartphone for reference. It doesn't have to navigate me, just show me a list of turns and notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really care if it supports upload of routes from gps units or a mobile app since I'm using it more for future rides than past rides. I rarely do the same ride twice.  However, some people find this very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm willing to pay money for a good app, so free isn't neccesary, but it's nice. The key thing is it has to be easy to map out a route and generate a cue sheet and add notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T17:14:14.613" LastActivityDate="2017-07-25T15:19:12.450" Title="What is the best web application to create cycling cue sheets for future rides" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;maps&gt;&lt;planning&gt;&lt;software&gt;&lt;navigation&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9210" CreationDate="2012-04-30T17:30:28.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mapmyride.com&lt;/a&gt; is pretty good for mapping out routes. They do allow you to print routes, although I prefer to use the Android app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2701" LastEditorUserId="3644" LastEditDate="2012-05-01T09:15:00.433" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T09:15:00.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9210" CreationDate="2012-04-30T17:52:39.410" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mostly use it for tracking rides after the fact, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/&quot;&gt;Ride With GPS&lt;/a&gt; has cue sheets and route planning based off of Google maps for their paying members.  From the GPS side, it works great, your mileage may vary for pre-planning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T17:52:39.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9216" CreationDate="2012-04-30T19:14:03.990" Score="5" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;In effort to transition my mountain bike to a city commuter- can I replace the mountain tires with thinner city tires without changing the bike wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3989" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T19:43:15.277" Title="Transitioning mountain bike into city commuter bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-30T19:15:31.167" Score="3" ViewCount="5470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in buying a single speed mountain bike for about $400-600. Can anyone recommend me one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried buying this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redlinebicycles.com/bikes/mtb/2012-monocog-29er&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.redlinebicycles.com/bikes/mtb/2012-monocog-29er&lt;/a&gt; but it is all sold out. I'm 5'6&quot; so I need a small frame for a 29er. I would like the bike to be in a darker color like in the link if possible. Nothing like white or bright colors on the bike as it's main color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3990" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T00:12:39.540" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T00:12:39.540" Title="Suggestion on buying a single speed 29er mountain bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9214" CreationDate="2012-04-30T19:21:24.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;SE Stout is a single speed mountain bike that runs relatively cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're confident in your ability to put it together properly, you can find them at bikesdirect for around 350. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/se/stout.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/se/stout.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's got tabs for disc brakes so you could upgrade in the future, but comes with V-Brakes stock.  I have a few friends who have these bikes and really like them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T19:40:39.253" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T19:40:39.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9213" CreationDate="2012-04-30T19:22:50.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes, you can.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rims on most mountain bikes will support a tire as thin as 26 x 1 inch. 26 x 1.25 is virtually guaranteed on any mountain bike at all. (As long as it is a 26&quot; wheel bike.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T19:22:50.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9218" CreationDate="2012-04-30T19:32:42.610" Score="10" ViewCount="1764" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months ago I was in an accident with a car on my way home from work (oncoming car turned left in front of me). My bike was severely damaged, the frame broke in two and the front wheel is bent enough to be un-usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3je22.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;broken bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, many of the other parts, the shifters, derailers, brakes, etc. seem to be in good condition. I'm considering using some and selling others of these parts. Excluding the obviously damaged parts, are there any other parts that shouldn't be used/sold? I wouldn't want to use/sell bad parts and I would be selling these with full disclosure on where they came from and what they went through. Basically I'd like to know if there are any parts that are typically damaged with wrecks like this and what I should look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3896" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T15:49:02.063" Title="Which parts of a wrecked bike would be OK to use or sell?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9217" CreationDate="2012-04-30T19:38:52.260" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have no way to know what may or may not have been damaged in the accident, especially without knowing details about the accident and the types of components on the bike. Some parts you likely won't be able to determine if they're still functional until you put them on a different bike and ride on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you're not going to get much by selling a lot of those components piecemeal, especially with a disclaimer that it's been in an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation? Scrap the bike for parts, and keep them around as spares for your next bike. Having a good supply of used parts on hand can be incredibly useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T19:38:52.260" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9217" CreationDate="2012-04-30T19:48:18.160" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think perhaps you could inspect some parts and, if they show no reason to worry, you could use them yourself. But I think it would be unfair to sell some of the parts, &quot;by definition&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think you should NOT sell these parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebar;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are structural parts that are vital for safety and/or are likely to be damaged in an impact like yours (looks like frontal impact?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T19:48:18.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9210" CreationDate="2012-04-30T20:48:49.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They do not have an app, but I typically use the Course Creator on &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeroutetoaster.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bikeroutetoaster.com/&lt;/a&gt; to plan new rides. It gives you elevation profile and will allow you to print the cue sheets. You can export the GPX/TCX data to upload to a GPS device for on screen turn by turn cues (depending on your device).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good option for finding new routes is to use the segment explorer on &lt;a href=&quot;http://strava.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://strava.com&lt;/a&gt; although the segments do not make a complete ride, I like to see where the popular riding routes are and have found many new locations and climbs by using the segment explorer in a new area I've not ridden before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T20:48:49.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-01T00:46:40.337" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2781/how-much-maintenance&quot;&gt;How much maintenance?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everytime I get my biked serviced, it ends up costing me over one hundred pounds (including parts), which is not much less than what I originally paid for it (it's a second hand Marin Muirwoods).  However, everytime I get it back it feels radically transformed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I accept that parts are going wear out and I will need to get it serviced from time to time, but I would like to increase the time between services, and keep the bike running well for longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I have ever done myself is spray a little oil once in a while.  What basic steps can I learn to do myself in order to keep it in good condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="476" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T02:58:06.817" Title="What regular maintenance should be done to keep the bike in good condition?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-05-01T04:40:36.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2781" CreationDate="2012-05-01T01:36:18.760" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is essentially nothing in the way of maintenance on a standard bicycle that cannot be done by a competent &quot;shade tree mechanic&quot;.  It's all a matter of learning the basic techniques and acquiring a few basic tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to learn to do, and the most important, is of course to keep the tires properly inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repairing flats, and changing tires when they're worn is something every cyclist should know how to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, cleaning the drive train (chain and sprockets) is reasonably simple and worthwhile to do.  Should be done every few hundred miles.  (The &quot;chain washers&quot; that are now available make this task fairly easy.)  Inspecting the chain for wear (with a simple inexpensive gauge) and replacing it when worn is something that can be accomplished at the same time.  (Chains last roughly 2000 miles, and if not replaced when worn out will cause damage to other parts.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing worn sprockets (rear at roughly 5000 miles, front at 10-15K) is actually relatively simple, though a few specialized tools are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learning how to adjust brakes and derailers is one of the keys to keeping a bike in good working order.  This needs to be done every few hundred miles.  It takes a modicum of skill and practice, but it's not rocket science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping your wheels true is something that is fairly easy to do and well within the capabilities of someone with reasonable mechanical ability.  There's no real schedule for this -- do it when the wheel appears to be out of true.  Learning to replace a broken spoke on the road is worth doing, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repacking wheel bearings is something that needs to be done every 10-20K miles, and once or twice in-between the bearing adjustment may need tweaking.  This is not a difficult task, but it's messy and involved, and may be where you'd prefer to defer to your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are books that will tell you how to do much of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-05-01T02:08:22.403" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T02:08:22.403" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2781" CreationDate="2012-05-01T01:49:29.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good online reference and starting point is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt;. I would start there and also  read up on the late &lt;a href=&quot;http:///sheldonbrown.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Browns&lt;/a&gt; web pages.  If you can hold a screw driver and read a manual then the regular servicing should not be a problem. Parts replacement is easily within the scope of an average person - things like brake pads, chains and clusters (With the right tools). Where the bike shops have it is knowing just what parts are worn out, and the odd thing like a stripped thread or stuck seat post that they have the experience to deal to without breaking other stuff. ,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as specialized tools go, you won't need anything more than what a normal home handyman has in a tools box to start with. If you get more adventurous, You can get cheap specific bike tools kits that are OK for the odd job, but be careful as some of the tools can be low quality and damage bike parts (The Crank remover on mine &quot;felt&quot; too cheap for the forces needed, so I bought a Park Tool one.), or you can buy them from the LBS as needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T01:49:29.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9217" CreationDate="2012-05-01T02:04:04.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could sell the bike whole, for someone else to part out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I feel that the others are being a bit anal about selling the parts.  After all, many bikes are subjected to far more abuse than this TA produced.  A bicycle is a remarkably robust device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame (obviously), the front wheel, the fork, and the headset should be tossed (though the front wheel hub may be salvageable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handlebar and stem, unless visibly bent/damaged, should be safe.  Inspect the cranks to see if they've been bent.  If not, then the cranks and BB cart should be good.  If the rear wheel has remained true, then it is good.  And obviously, brake parts, derailers, etc, are good unless bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should, of course, disclose that the parts are from a traffic-damaged bicycle.  And I would agree with the others that the amount you get may not be worth the effort.  (You might consider instead donating the bike to a local bikes-for-kids group that would strip it for parts.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Or you could repair the bike.  The frame can actually be repaired, if what's in the picture is the worst of it, and if the front wheel is not totally tacoed it can likely be trued to a substantial degree (though probably not perfect).  Of course, it wouldn't really be worth the effort, but it would be a challenging &quot;project&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T02:04:04.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9227" CreationDate="2012-05-01T02:35:30.373" Score="17" ViewCount="53518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 50 mile bike ride in 1 week.  I have been training for a while and I am trying to figure out, at this point, if I should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Training hard, doing a few long bike rides to get prepared&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resting and taking it easy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard both arguments (one saying to do a similar ride and others saying focus on resting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for what to do a week before a big bike ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-05-01T16:44:02.050" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T21:34:15.030" Title="What should I be doing a week before a long distance bike ride?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9228" CreationDate="2012-05-01T02:44:08.973" Score="24" ViewCount="33172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to train for an upcoming bike ride and i wanted to see if attending a spin class 1-2 times a week (45 min course) would be appropriate way to prepare for a long bike ride (50 - 75 miles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2005" LastActivityDate="2018-10-14T02:02:26.053" Title="Does spin class prepare you for a long bike ride?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9225" CreationDate="2012-05-01T02:46:59.593" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct answer is both. You should do a long ride, around 80% of your goal distance 4 days before your actual ride, and then rest off the bike for 3 days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That gives your body a wake up call that serious exercise is coming, and then a rest period to build up for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9193/1259&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; has some explanation about why, but the only real debate is in the timing of the ride and the length of the rest period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most people, 3 days is enough to recover, but not so much as to lose the gains you made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, 50 miles is a long ride, but not so long as to need to be excessively concerned with your training schedule, as long as you've been putting miles on the bike, and as long as you pay attention to eating the right food, in enough quantity, both in preparation for the ride, and while doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T09:18:31.463" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9226" CreationDate="2012-05-01T02:53:18.820" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regular aerobic exercise is definitely of value for preparing for a big ride. Spin is a good preparation in conjunction with some outdoor rides, but it is not a substitute for riding your bike on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The feel of the bike, the balance, the momentum, and the environmental and traffic factors will have an effect on your fitness as well, some of which may be purely mental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If time is limited, try spin 2-3 days a week, and build up your endurance, but also do at least one longer outdoor ride each week. If you're riding 50 miles, you need to plan to be on the bike for 3-5 hours when you do the actual ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build up to where you can handle 3 hours on the bike easily, and you'll do fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T02:53:18.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2781" CreationDate="2012-05-01T02:58:06.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you've described, it sounds like you are trying to achieve mutually exclusive goals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to spend less AND take the bike to service less often AND have the bike feeling better (for longer) AND have parts that don't wear so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, you can spend less and have the bike feel better for longer by actually taking it MORE OFTEN to maintainence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride three or four times a week for EIGHTEEN MONTHS without nothing but some oil spray on the chain, no wonder your bike feels like another after you take it to shop. That is WAY TOO MUCH TIME without maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, some simple measures would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wash the parts of your bike that move under friction if they get dirty. That is mostly drivetrain, brakes and braking surfaces. Soft brush, hose and mild soap should be fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't wait too much before replacing the chain. A worn chain can waste good cassettes and chainrings. 1000 km is a good distance to consider replacing it, but it can last longer if you lube it and ride mostly on asphalt, and way less than it if you ride on serious muddy and/or wet conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifting and braking rely heavily on cables and housings being on good condition. Replacing them regularly is not expensive and have a HUGE impact on riding quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, bike mechanics and shop owners also need to eat. Taking the bike to the shop more often can end up having a much better cost-benefit for you than waiting untill the bike is crappy. And even the price of each service might be smaller, since it is much less work to service a bike that is not cying for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is useful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T02:58:06.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9226" CreationDate="2012-05-01T03:04:40.663" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spin classes do help with overall aerobic fitness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are shortcomings: the first thought occurring to me is &quot;bike handling&quot;. You can do spin classes blindfolded. An actual ride means controlling the bike in various situations. Secondly in a spin class, the &quot;rider&quot; determines the difficulty. Actually riding, the difficulty is determined by the environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upshot is that spin classes are good for aerobic fitness but other skills require different practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Spin workouts in general?&lt;/em&gt; &#xA;A good thing. I do spin workouts during the dark, wet, and cold Pacific NW winters. Spin workouts do wonders for your cardiovascular endurance. So, you have that covered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, spin workouts generally last 45 minutes to an hour. A long ride is typically longer than that, so little to no help. Another thing in spin workouts is that the instructor will have you increase the resistance for &quot;hills&quot;; believe me, it never matches reality unless you &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; ramp up the resistance. Another thing, is that spin instructors often don't have actual experience in riding a real bike on real terrain; so not sure that it helps unless the spin instructor is actually a cyclist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take away? Usually ramp things up; of course depending on the spin instructor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...Spin &quot;class&quot; is NOT a &quot;class&quot;...it's a workout...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2012-05-03T07:10:41.610" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T07:10:41.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9225" CreationDate="2012-05-01T06:13:35.157" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;50 (80.4km) miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you don't think about the &lt;em&gt;distance&lt;/em&gt;, but instead start thinking about the &lt;em&gt;time&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 50 miles, this is up to ~ 5 hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest... you can do a semi-hard training ride a week in advance. Otherwise, just relax and do easy rides at low effort leading up to the day of the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll be fine. And I wish you the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question didn't mention as to whether this is an organized, supported ride. If this is a supported ride, there will be food/rest stops along the way. Be sure to take advantage of the rest stops and have a snack, rest a bit, and enjoy the day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T23:15:40.860" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T23:15:40.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9217" CreationDate="2012-05-01T08:10:22.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a new frame and front wheel, and build it up yourself for &quot;fun&quot;. Then sell it on or keep as a spare/winter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="484" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T08:10:22.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4081" CreationDate="2012-05-01T08:36:25.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some jobs require working with left-hand threads, for example, fitting cups to a BSA-threaded bottom bracket or fitting pedals.  This is more likely a requirement for your medium duty, higher torque wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some torque wrenches advertise 'reversible' ratchet heads but this is not the same thing.  Unless it specifically says so, the wrench is unlikely to work on left-hand threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T08:36:25.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8640" CreationDate="2012-05-01T10:12:07.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may also depend on the material and year of manufacture.  The Campagnolo spare parts list uses different codes for the carbon and alloy replacements.  For the carbon crankset, there seems to be a different code for the power torque (2011+) and ultra-torque (2010) versions too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image shown in the previous post looks like the 2011 and later Chorus/Record bolts (which all go into special threaded chainrings).  I would expect something like this product from BBB to be more likely to fit the Athena 11 speed carbon crank (there is a good picture here):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bbbcycling.com/bike-parts/chainrings/BCR-54C/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bbbcycling.com/bike-parts/chainrings/BCR-54C/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a set of FC-AT300 bolts for my Centaur Carbon chainset, this part is listed in the 2012 catalogue as being suitable for Athena Carbon 11-speed and all other 10-speed cranksets (with black bolts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T10:12:07.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9225" CreationDate="2012-05-01T11:20:44.857" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;50 miles (in decent weather, on reasonably flat terrain) is really not that far, if you break it into 10-15 mile segments and stop to rest a few minutes between.  If you can comfortably do 10-15 miles in one &quot;sitting&quot; then you should have no real difficulties (other than being fairly sore the next day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend doing a couple of 10-25 mile rides in the week leading up, but taking it easy the day (or two) before the ride.  And make sure your bike is &quot;tuned up&quot;, with the shifters and brakes working well, and the tires properly inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go a little heavy on starchy food the evening before, eat a decent (not too fatty) breakfast, and be sure to get some snacks every hour or so.  And drink plenty of water.  If it's a hot day, be sure to get some extra salt in the form of salty snacks, eg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T11:20:44.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-01T17:42:34.460" Score="2" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone just posted this on our local cycling list serv.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.msf-usa.org/motion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Motion Induced Blindness&lt;/a&gt;. Their point was that fixing your gaze on something on the dashboard can blind you to things that are moving (like bicycle near you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some things we can do to help this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wearing a bike light even during the day (flashing style)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear brighter colors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe bright paint/decals on your bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I wanted to see if there was any research/stats on the subject before I increased the local visual pollution (with my light, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T07:47:32.510" Title="Any research (or reliable statistics) on benefits of making yourself more visible (blinking light even in daytime, bright colors)?" Tags="&lt;visibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9243" CreationDate="2012-05-01T17:48:56.933" Score="12" ViewCount="6132" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I make myself more visible during the day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe something to put on my helmet (so it's easy to remember).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-05-01T19:29:44.510" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T02:07:21.613" Title="How can I make myself and bike more visible during the day?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;visibility&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9239" CreationDate="2012-05-01T18:13:28.650" Score="14" ViewCount="5516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried getting a good measurement with my caliper, but the flexibility of the tire doesn't help much. Let's say I have a 26&amp;quot;x2.125&amp;quot; tire. I know this fits on an ISO 559mm bead seat diameter rim, and 26&amp;quot; = 660.4mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;26&amp;quot;:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The OD of the tire &lt;strong&gt;including&lt;/strong&gt; the tread?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The OD of the tire &lt;strong&gt;excluding&lt;/strong&gt; the tread?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When aired up or deflated?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Means it fits a 559mm ISO BSD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;None of the above?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;2.125&amp;quot;:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Width of tread?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Width of sidewall?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflated or deflated?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, I'm converting the tire sizes to &amp;quot;height off rim in mm&amp;quot; and drawing them with a wheel in a web application, so I need to know how &amp;quot;tire size&amp;quot; translates to this measurement. I'm somewhat assuming that the fractional sizes can be converted to the same measurement, but I'm aware that they have certain differences - so any help there would be of value as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Website&lt;/a&gt; has been helpful, but still leaves me with the questions above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T04:19:16.313" Title="How are tire sizes measured?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9238" CreationDate="2012-05-01T18:36:21.203" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Number&lt;/strong&gt; = Nominal Outer Diameter of tire, including tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second Number / Letter&lt;/strong&gt; = Nominal width of tire at the start of the tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire size is determined by the outside diameter of the tire, as regards the 26 inch or 700c number. The 2.125 inch number is the nominal width of the tire at the point where the tread starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are nominal measurements, though, and there is no universal standard applied consistently other than bead diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700c x 23 tires from Schwalbe will measure 28mm in width, and about 5 mm extra in diameter. From Conti, its about 24mm and 1-2mm extra. There is no stadard for point of measurement. It is left to the manufacturer to decide, even before the marketing department gets involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T04:39:44.597" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T04:39:44.597" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9195" CreationDate="2012-05-01T20:26:49.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Look Keo's are very popular, but until recently they had a problem in gritty areas,  because the contact edge would erode quite quickly.  Newer versions have a metal strip added there, so look for that if this is an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently riding Mavic pedals very similar to the Looks, but I wouldn't recommend them.  The cleats wear twice as fast as my old, pre-Keo Looks, and they seem to be harder to clip into than others I have used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T20:26:49.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9237" CreationDate="2012-05-01T21:06:26.547" Score="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;1.  Wear hi-visibility color on your torso.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That really bright yellow/green color is best. The orange is pretty good, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen stuff that's striped in both colors or is primarily one with a some bands of the other, and that seems like probably the best option, so that you still stand out against a background that matches the hi-viz color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Helmet and leg stuff wouldn't hurt, but will tend to be less effective than torso, since the helmet is fairly small and your legs are fairly low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of available options for getting hi-viz colors on your torso. Most include reflective bits. Things like: a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000IDSUS8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;safety&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0030AA3YK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vest&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/re5.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hi-viz safety triangle belt&lt;/a&gt;, a hi-viz &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003BLOU9C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycling vest&lt;/a&gt;, a hi-viz &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004N628TI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycling jacket&lt;/a&gt;, a hi-viz &lt;a href=&quot;http://elevengear.com/high-viz-gear/traffic-master/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycling&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://elevengear.com/high-viz-gear/coral-snake/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;jersey&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00753NF2A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hi-viz t-shirt&lt;/a&gt;, or even just a regular t-shirt in a bright visible color... Most bike-shops will have a hi-viz jersey and hi-viz cycling vest or cycling jacket available. &quot;Work wear&quot; shops that sell uniforms and other work-clothes will often stock a variety of high-visibility stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;2. Attach hi-visibility colors to the bike.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A safety triangle hanging from the back of the saddle. A bag under your saddle in a hi-viz color. Hi-viz colored panniers. Hi-viz colored reflective tape on your fenders or other parts of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will be lower and smaller than on your torso, but couldn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;3. Bright flashing lights&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need unusually bright lights for them to have a chance of being at all useful in full daylight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the Cygolite HotShot that won the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/2012/03/tail-light-review/&quot;&gt;Tail light review&lt;/a&gt; on our blog. It's definitely visible in daylight when it's in a flashing mode. My 300 lumen headlight in flashing mode is also visible in daylight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;4. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ride visibly and predictably&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride where you'll be seen. Ride where cars will be looking for you. Don't ride in the gutter or hug the curb. Merge into the lane position a car would use to go straight when approaching a place that a car can turn across your path. Claim the lane when appropriate. Take a safe cycling course, or at least read up about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicular_cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vehicular Cycling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably actually the best thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;5. Ride with other bicyclists.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard not to see a pack of 20 cyclists riding close together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T23:50:13.910" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T23:50:13.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="865" CreationDate="2012-05-02T05:38:56.527" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're still interested, you can check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelspoking.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt; I'm developing that draws the wheel for you, allows you to play with all the variables and select different lacing patterns. It may help to visualize what you want before you build it (and even see it spinning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WnsG7.png&quot; alt=&quot;WheelSpoking.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: It's still in active development, so don't expect perfection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-20T00:32:22.590" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T00:32:22.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9247" CreationDate="2012-05-02T06:14:25.073" Score="17" ViewCount="4166" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because I ride my bike everywhere, my pannier bags (Ortlieb Back Roller Classic) carry all kinds of cargo, from wrapped-up fish-and-chips to damp swimming and gym kit. I store them open whenever I can, so they're not as ripe as you might think, but they've still developed a distinct odour over time. What's the best way to wipe down the inside and leave them smelling like new again? Do you have any recommendations for a particular cleaner that won't damage the waterproofing, or a special technique that gets rid of the bad smells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T11:54:21.533" Title="How do I make my pannier bag less smelly?" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9081" CreationDate="2012-05-02T06:45:17.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like some builders call this the 'Race Lace,' and by pre-bending the spokes near the elbows will allow crossed patterns to be laced in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://spokeanwheel.110mb.com/lacingcl.htm#rl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://spokeanwheel.110mb.com/lacingcl.htm#rl&lt;/a&gt; details this method and even shows 5x done on a 36 hole rim/hub:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwJZJ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;36h 5x Race Lace&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only do the leading/trailing spokes lay nicely next to each other, it appears to have the following properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advantage: More lateral stiffness due to wider effective hub width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advantage: Even lateral pull from all spokes, not alternating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advantage: Perfect 90 degree angle from hub flange (not due to inward heads)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disadvantage: Increased weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disadvantage: Increased fatigue at first crossing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disadvantage: Harder to lace (especially for machines)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This isn't really meant to be a convincing argument to 'Race Lace' everything, but it certainly moves the prognosis from 'because you can't' to well within the realm of possible.&lt;/strong&gt; If anyone has further reasoning why this is undesirable, I'd like to hear them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2012-05-05T09:23:19.647" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T09:23:19.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9245" CreationDate="2012-05-02T07:06:29.457" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it sounds too simple, but these bags are made to be cleaned (assuming yours is unlined. If it's lined, you'll never get it out). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, try dish soap and water. Citrus scents seem to cut the smell best, but that may be a personal preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is not enough, then the next best option is to use a diluted solution of something like Pine Sol or other bath, kitchen and tile cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used Pine Sol in a 1:4 ratio with water, and it did the job that dish soap wouldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seal the products you are carrying better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't take fish just wrapped in newspaper like the fish market gives them to you. Ask for, and insist on if necessary, a ziplock or similar plastic bag or wrap to keep the fish oil off of your bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Gym clothes, pack them in vacuum storage bags like you get for packing luggage tightly. Push the air out of the bag, and it will keep the nasty sealed in well enough to keep your bag form smelling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come large enough to put most anything that will fit in your panniers or messenger bag, (even newspaper wrapped fish), and they don't take up much room when empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T07:48:32.527" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T07:48:32.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9249" CreationDate="2012-05-02T07:07:26.837" Score="-1" ViewCount="3047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know of all the 'normal' ways to spoke a wheel. Currently, if you want to use a non-standard pattern, you have to run the length computations a number of times; for example, in a 3-spoke crow's foot, you'd have to compute the lengths for a radial spoking, and then again for 2x). Also, some patterns are manufacturer specific or rare and there don't exist calculators for them (G3, Paired, Twin Pair, etc.). I'd like to simplify this calculation and account for non-standard spoking patterns as well as the regular ones, however I'm not sure what patterns are out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To limit the question some, I'm only concerned with &lt;em&gt;proper&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;lacing patterns&lt;/strong&gt; - a term I'll have to define:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has to make a working, rideable wheel. Some spokes must oppose the tension of other spokes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of leading spokes is equal to the number of trailing spokes (both 0 for radial). I realize they could just be placed randomly to make a wheel, but this isn't a &lt;em&gt;pattern&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Unless there's a reason for it&lt;/em&gt; (or someone's done it before), every leading spoke should be matched equally to a trailing spoke. Sure, the leading spokes could be 1x and the trailing 3x, but why do this? (If you can state a reason, then it would count)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spokes are all straight from a spoke hole to a rim seat, which takes any of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_BuzxEhjqu6c/SgYm8mIwNxI/AAAAAAAABPc/rM762NAjBl4/s400/Flower+Wheels.MEDIUM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;twisted patterns&lt;/a&gt; that bend spokes around other spokes (not just crossing) off the table. I suspect there are only a few ways to do this, but it's in the realm of possibility to buy ten foot spokes and go crazy, so I'm not considering them a &lt;em&gt;proper&lt;/em&gt; lacing pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this context, I don't really care if it sucks, or has disadvantages x, y, and z, or get into a discussion of why bother with a certain pattern. However, any more details on them, or WHY they suck/rule I'm very interested in. I'm using this for my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelspoking.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wheel spoking application&lt;/a&gt; to view them and calculate lengths in a much more detailed, accurate and customizable way, which is why I'm not interested in practicality, just possibility. If you have any to add, a picture would be nice or at least a description enough for me to draw a wheel with it would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious ones that don't need to be mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radial&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crossings (1x, 2x, 3x, 4x, ...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2012-05-05T08:46:14.530" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T08:46:14.530" Title="What alternative spoke lacing patterns exist (that make a decent wheel)?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;reference&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-05-02T07:33:58.800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9248" CreationDate="2012-05-02T07:29:47.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't a complete list. The examples you've given cover a wide spectrum of possibilities, each of which can be permuted in so many different ways that making such a list would be a huge undertaking and it would have so many millions of entries that it would be useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="745" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T07:29:47.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9236" CreationDate="2012-05-02T07:47:32.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following study, carried out in 2009, seems to have attempted to answer the same question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://summaries.cochrane.org/CD003438/increasing-pedestrian-and-cyclist-visibility-to-prevent-deaths-and-injuries&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kwan I, Mapstone J. Interventions for increasing pedestrian and cyclist visibility for the prevention of death and injuries&lt;/a&gt;. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews 2006, Issue 4. Art. No.: CD003438. DOI: 10.1002/14651858.CD003438.pub2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks like a meta study, the full text of the article contains links to the various sources they examined and the articles they found.  Their conclusion was that the research is inconclusive: &quot;the effect of visibility aids on pedestrian and cyclist safety remains unknown&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go beyond visibility and look at changes you can make to your appearance and their effect on driver behaviour then you might like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://drianwalker.com/overtaking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2006 research on overtaking&lt;/a&gt; by Dr Ian Walker who has sparked some controversy with his research concluding that cars leave cyclists more room if the cyclist does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; wear a helmet or if they grow their hair long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T07:47:32.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-02T08:35:41.407" Score="3" ViewCount="884" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out my front chain rings are biopace, after I thought they had disappeared!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a problem with the chain rubbing the front deraileur at a certain point every rotation. I only get this in the highest gear on the inner ring and it happens from about the 4th gear when on the outer ring. getting gradually worse when changing up to the highest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it's a trim or height problem or both :S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when in the small inner ring height should not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hgzbm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front deraileur&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it could be height issue when on the highest gears on the outer ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dura ace deraileur front and back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;105 cranks and chain ring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unknown back sprocket set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/4l7GkNOoGdg?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2019-10-05T07:58:40.330" LastActivityDate="2019-10-05T08:02:09.867" Title="Biopace chain rings and front deraileur rub" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9251" CreationDate="2012-05-02T11:29:38.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that there are 5 adjustments on a front derailer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low limit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High limit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cable adjustment -- selects where the derailer stops for intermediate cogs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Height above crank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Angle on seat tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For subtle chain rub problems sometimes adjusting the angle (very slightly!) is the best approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But remember that if the rub is only once a revolution it suggests that the ring, arm, or crank is bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T11:29:38.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9196" CreationDate="2012-05-02T15:41:35.377" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If what you're looking for is a cheap alternative, here in my country is very common to use diesel or kerosene to clean bike parts. Personally I use diesel, I just pour a small amount in an old plastic cup, and use a brush (the kind normally used for painting) to rub it all over derailleurs, cogsets, bearings, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is plenty effective for removing even heavy grease. It is smelly and leaves an oily residue that can be easily removed with dish soap. (I prefer the liquid one). I Like to use it because it is effective, and the &quot;residue&quot; seems to be protective against corrosion for a few days. You can use rubber gloves, since diesel won't melt them, but if carefully used barehands, it won't cause much trouble as long as you wash your hands right after the job, which you can do with plain water and hand soap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note: Liquid dish soap is an amazing grease remover, but it needs scrubbing, so it does not make the job as easy as diesel. It is extremely useful for the rubber parts of the bike, leaves tyres looking really good, and does wonders with the grips: somehow they end up shiny but not slippery, and it's really easy on the paint job, try it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel has the advantage of being not so flammable as gasoline or kerosene. You can't light up liquid diesel with a spark or a match, but with kerosene or gasoline it's easy, thus my choice for diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason to prefer diesel over gasoline or paint solvents, is that it won't damage plastic or rubber parts, as gasoline would do. Some paint solvents may cause long term discoloration of paint (d'uh!) or plastic parts if used frequently. I haven't had these situations with diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kerosene is more flammable, less viscous and less smelly, but I have never used it for cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many years ago, I used to clean with gasoline, but the smell is unbearable after a few minutes, it damages plastic, rubber and paint. It melts some kinds of rubber gloves and causes immediate damage to the skin. For some specific jobs it can be useful though, since it evaporates rather quickly, leaving no residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: As with all flammable /volatile liquids, they should be used with caution, in open, ventilated environments, and should be stored carefully, properly labeled and out of reach of unsuitable users (children, elderly, etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T15:41:35.377" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9185" CreationDate="2012-05-02T18:20:10.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Foil Premium frame does not have the factory routing for mechanical shifting. It is designed for Shimano Di2 or Campagnolo EPS electronic shifting only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to modify the frame successfully to accept normal cable routing, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you are very confident in your skills with drill and dremel. And of course it voids the warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To respond to a couple of requests for more information in comments, I've added some detail about this frame mod. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, this very much voids your warranty, and requires precise and careful work to avoid destroying the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, my mod was successful, but was very risky. I literally had to cut a large hole of a very specific shape and position in the BB shell.  I also had to drill a hole through the pre-molded cable stop section at the head tube, as well as through the chainstay by the rear derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The holes needed to fit these parts and be very, very precisely placed in the frame. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imeg7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imeg7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I was able to make a pattern out of paper and take very careful measurements From a Foil 10 frame. Without that ability, I would not have been confident enough to do this mod. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T02:40:09.563" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T02:40:09.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9196" CreationDate="2012-05-02T18:33:30.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used sugar (yes, the stuff put in coffee or on cereal) and liquid dish soap as a very effective home-made degreaser for my hands after working on bike or truck but haven't thought to try it on the parts themselves. For the metal bits I usually use WD-40 or Powerblaster and a scrub or toothbrush. I buy the &quot;WD&quot; in 1 gallon containers (liquid form, not &quot;aerosol&quot;) and use a plastic 5 gallon pail as a parts washer. After the project is done, I'll pour off the &quot;used&quot; liquid into a smaller container (filtering as necessary) and reuse it for future degreasing projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake Parts cleaner, as suggested above also works, but it's more toxic and I generally reserve it for things that truly need to be clean, perhaps in preparation for painting, not parts that are going to be re-greased after cleaning. I'd put diesel in the same general category. Very effective, but not as pleasant, or &quot;safe&quot;, to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4003" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T18:33:30.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9196" CreationDate="2012-05-02T19:53:57.983" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best degreaser is simply a rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disassemble the parts, rub them briskly with a rag, re-grease/re-oil and re-assemble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV depending on how far you let things go before servicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T19:53:57.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9245" CreationDate="2012-05-02T21:41:29.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the material seems unwashable try filling a thin sock or pantyhose with baking soda/sodium bicarbonate and dust the inside with it.Open the flap and tap the sock against the interior just hard enough to leave some of the powder over the entire interior.Let it sit overnight and vacum out any residue.You can leave the sock in the pannier so it will continue to absorb odors or try some charcoal in a small cloth pouch.Charcoal can be the kind used for grilling but make sure it is lump charcoal without any self ignitor added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T21:41:29.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="397" CreationDate="2012-05-02T21:56:56.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Camelbak Razor which I do use for road cycling. However, I am selective about when I use it. In general, it does not have detrimental effects on agility, but no doubt somewhat on aerodynamics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rides less than 4 hours, I go with water bottles in the bottle cages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For longer rides, especially in remote areas where I won't have easy access for refilling water bottles, I've found the Razor to be quite useful. If riding in generally &quot;civilized&quot; areas, I tend to just go with the water bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T21:56:56.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9263" CreationDate="2012-05-02T22:51:48.347" Score="3" ViewCount="1898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at remote adjustable seat posts that I can adjust the height of using a lever on my handle bar. They have a high price tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples are&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=75699&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rock Shox Reverb Seat Post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;and&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=48473&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crank Brothers Joplin 4 Remote Seatpost&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these type of products ok with a heavier person?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are there any other factors I should note before I buy one of these?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Other than the manual method of lowering, are there other options I should look at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T03:28:15.520" Title="Remote rising seat posts and heavier rider" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;trails&gt;&lt;26-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9262" CreationDate="2012-05-03T03:28:15.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both seatposts you mention use an air spring, with a hydraulic release. There is no maximum weight listed for either one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are designed to use your body weight to drop the saddle when the remote lever is pressed, and to use an air spring to return it to full height the next time it is pressed. You need to be off the seat when the lever is pressed to return the seat to its normal position, regardless of your body weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I'm a big dude, and I have no issues with mine that are weight based. I wouldn't be worried about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Rock Shox Reverb is a solid unit, and the crank brothers design looks to be as well, although I've only ridden the Reverb. The one issue I've seen is that the remote levers are exposed, and sensitive to impact. I've damaged mine by resting the bike on the handlebar to cha nge a flat, even done carefully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bright side is, parts are cheap and easy to find, and the bleed process is easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do recommend the Reverb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T03:28:15.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9245" CreationDate="2012-05-03T04:58:34.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the baking soda comment. Depending on your humidity, you might be developing a mildew smell, which can also develop in cycling jackets if you ride in the rain frequently, too. If you have a warm sunny day, and can turn the bags inside out, sunning them can also be effective. If your bag gets damp (inside) frequently, dry it out promptly and wad up newspaper in it, and that should absorb moisture from a bag (works for gloves and shoes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soaking in a saline and vinegar solution can cut mildew solution. You can add garden herbs like sage or rosemary leaves. If this is not effective, I would move up to some Simple Green solution next. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If those solutions are ineffective, you could also trest a small section of the bag with a TSP (trisodium phosphate). TSP is harsh so use gloves, safety glasses. This is probably safer than washing with a bleach solution, but doing a test on a section to determine if how it treats your material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T04:58:34.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9269" CreationDate="2012-05-03T12:25:23.740" Score="12" ViewCount="2904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using my bicycle to ride from home to work and back. Now I face a problem that the air is not so clean: dust, car exhaust etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm thinking of buying a respirator (i.e., an anti-pollution mask) to filter the air I breathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before I buy it I need advice on what should I consider when first choosing one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a respro bandit now and it seems to be what I needed. It really does it's job filtering the air well and doesn't make it too hard to breathe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4007" LastEditorUserId="4007" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T09:16:22.797" LastActivityDate="2018-05-19T23:18:56.587" Title="What should I consider when buying a respirator?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;city&gt;&lt;pollution&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9267" CreationDate="2012-05-03T12:46:52.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only ones I know of are made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.respro.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Respro&lt;/a&gt;, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.respro.com/products/urban-commuting/cycling/city_mask/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm sure other brands are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: yes, cycling-specific ones do exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching turns up some discussion, blogs, forums and user reviews in online cycling shops.&#xA;However, this is all anecdotal, and it isn't clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how useful they are&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this will depend quite particularly on your local style of air pollution; if you can find particulate emission information for your area, you might be able to figure out which mask will do the best job there&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how badly they restrict airflow or cause overheating and moisture buildup&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;this will depend on things like your exertion level and local heat/humidity, so you may just need to try it and see&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastEditorUserId="3311" LastEditDate="2012-05-03T13:10:52.783" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T13:10:52.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9267" CreationDate="2012-05-03T12:56:37.310" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a few options. One that has been marketed to cyclists has been &lt;a href=&quot;http://totobobo.com&quot;&gt; the totobo mask&lt;/a&gt; which is from what I gather a re-usable N95 mask (although uncertified by any agency) with replaceable filter peices.  It's cheap to try, at only $25 or so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.respro.com/products/urban-commuting/cycling/city_mask/&quot;&gt;Respro&lt;/a&gt; is another option.  It seems like a bit more  customizable, and looks like the neoprene would compress the mask against your face a bit better than the totobo, but it's probably really hot in the summer. These run about $60-$75 for a mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a forum link which has a bit of a personal comparison from a few cyclists who use these masks in bangalore.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/bangalore-bikers/w2vgTWlsOH4/3KSlS0jOj0kJ&quot;&gt;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/bangalore-bikers/w2vgTWlsOH4/3KSlS0jOj0kJ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T12:56:37.310" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4266" CreationDate="2012-05-03T15:39:14.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll second the Raleigh Twenty post.  I'm 6'0&quot; and 170 lbs. and commute about 4 miles each way on my 1974 Raleigh Twenty.  It's rugged, fast and gets lots of smiles.  I upgraded the wheels by stealing the 20&quot; alloy wheels off my daughter's abandoned bike including her rear 6-speed freewheel.  Put on some 1.25&quot; tires and a larger front chainring.  I've taken it on longer rides with a relaxed cycling club and it does well.  I put a basket on the rear rack and toss my bike bag (often loaded with books and papers) in there.  Depending on my mood, I'll ride either the Twenty or my Trek 750 hybrid but the Twenty makes a good commuter.  I haven't had to fold it but it's good to know I can even though it doesn't fold as gracefully or as compactly as newer folders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4009" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T15:39:14.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3374" CreationDate="2012-05-03T15:52:20.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you eating while you ride?  Consuming carbs in a sports drink?  If not, you're probably bonking due to lack of sugars after your glycogen reserves are depleted. If it seems like you just hit a wall at the same time each time you ride, be sure to  Eat before your ride, and during to maintain fuel for your muscles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll usually throw in a cliff bar or something every 8 or 10 miles of singletrack.  Less frequently on a road bike.  But after a few good steep climbs, I make sure I get some calories (even though I'm not hungry), to keep my energy level up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T15:52:20.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9154" CreationDate="2012-05-03T19:24:32.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a number of things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle/cleat/handle bar misalignment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bad form on her right side, not spinning circles, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you ridden with her and checked out her form? Is she favoring one side over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T19:24:32.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9275" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-05-03T19:33:41.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A recumbent bicycle is a bicycle that places the rider in a laid-back&#xA;reclining position. Most recumbent riders choose this type of design&#xA;for ergonomic reasons; the rider's weight is distributed comfortably&#xA;over a larger area, supported by back and buttocks. On a traditional&#xA;upright bicycle, the body weight rests entirely on a small portion of&#xA;the sitting bones, the feet, and the hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most recumbent models also have an aerodynamic advantage; the&#xA;reclined, legs-forward position of the rider’s body presents a smaller&#xA;frontal profile. A recumbent holds the world speed record for a&#xA;bicycle, and they were banned from racing under the UCI in 1934, and&#xA;now race under the banner of the Human Powered Vehicle Association&#xA;(HPVA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recumbents are available in a wide range of configurations, including:&#xA;long to short wheelbase; large, small, or a mix of wheel sizes;&#xA;overseat, underseat, or no-hands steering; and rear wheel or front&#xA;wheel drive. A variant with three wheels is a recumbent tricycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recumbent_bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia entry on recumbents&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3644" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2020-07-13T08:52:33.660" LastActivityDate="2020-07-13T08:52:33.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9276" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-05-03T19:33:41.700" Score="0" Body="A recumbent is a bicycle (or tricycle) that places the rider in a laid-back reclining position." OwnerUserId="3644" LastEditorUserId="3644" LastEditDate="2012-05-03T20:28:39.167" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T20:28:39.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9282" CreationDate="2012-05-03T22:16:47.770" Score="5" ViewCount="5139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got some SPD pedals. Initially, my seat was too high (old pedals added about 3/4th of an inch to height), and at the end of the downstroke, pulled uncomfortably on my knees. After even moderate rides (~5k), it would be painful walking up stairs, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, figured that part out, lowered my seat, no problems for several weeks. Weather gets better, start ramping up the distance I travel, and now I find that I get a (much) less painful version of the same thing after longer rides (&gt;40k) with a headwind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal to get &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; soreness in your knees, or is this a sign that the seat is still not at the right height? Is there an algorithmic way to adjust seat height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T01:45:40.397" Title="Is it normal to have some soreness in your knees after cycling with SPD?" Tags="&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9277" CreationDate="2012-05-03T23:23:52.643" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's still not the right height. Try lowering it another half inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T23:23:52.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9277" CreationDate="2012-05-04T00:59:41.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to perhaps adjusting the height further, also have a look to see if the cleats are forcing your foot inwards or outwards. That can cause problems with knee or ankle if it isn't lined up with your natural axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some excerpts from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesplit.com/bsa5.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikesplit.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Optimizing cleat position is crucial to minimize stress through your knees and maximize power output...Several pedal types allow float (lateral rotation) and that's the key to healthy knees for many athletes. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Float allows the foot to change the angle it pushes or pulls from at various points around the pedal stroke. On the down stroke a straight forward foot position is natural, while pulling back a heel-in, toeing out position may feel more natural because the hamstrings are doing the work and their attachment point is toward the medial (center of the body).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once set, cleat position should be neutral: there should be absolutely no twisting sensation through ankles, knees, or hips. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are five dimensions to consider when setting cleat position: height, cant, front-to-back, side-to-side, and rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cleat height modification is to compensate for a leg length difference. It's more important for the run than bike, but can still be helpful if your difference is 1cm or more. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Canting is tipping your foot to the inside or outside with a shim shaped like a wedge, usually tipping toward the lateral (outside). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For front to back adjustment the ball of your foot should be directly over the pedal spindle. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Next you need to choose the best spot on the pedal laterally (side-to-side). Too close and your ankle will hit the crank arm; too far away and it will be awkward, like walking with feet spread far apart. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Setting the rotational position is ... the most important setting to keep your knees happy as you pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2012-05-04T14:20:51.953" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T14:20:51.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9281" CreationDate="2012-05-04T01:20:11.383" Score="2" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;products_id=874&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nitto Campee 27R rear rack&lt;/a&gt;. It seems like it's not wide enough to mount on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://allcitycycles.com/bikes/space_horse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;All-City Space Horse&lt;/a&gt;, which has rack bosses and 130mm rear wheel spacing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried to install these racks?  Should I just try and stretch them out to make them wide enough or should I buy a different rear rack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T00:53:37.337" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T00:53:37.337" Title="Can I use my nitto campee rack on my bike?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9280" CreationDate="2012-05-04T02:02:59.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can stretch a rack, but not by very much. Whether you can stretch these out to fit depends on how much you need to stretch the rack. This rack is made from steel, which flexes a bit, but take care not to stretch it too much or that could put too much stress on the welds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3yYcv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to be careful of: With the rack stretched a bit, are the allen screws into the bosses on the bike frame going in properly? If the screws and the threads in the bosses are clean, the screws should go in very smoothly. Be aware that lateral stress on a screw can cause damage to the boss threads in the frame. Since you're screwing into the horse, this is less of a concern, but it's still an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for troublesome screws, try cleaning the threads of the screws, and the threads of the rack bosses. It's amazing how many problems are caused by dirt in the threads. A drop of lube on the threads may also be a good idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-05-04T02:08:00.073" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T02:08:00.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9277" CreationDate="2012-05-04T04:00:07.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bike is set up with a proper fit to your body, and your pedal's cleat position is set up for your body, soreness in your knees like you describe is not normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether the discomfort you are experiencing is simply muscle soreness, as in &quot;I exercised heavily and my body noticed&quot; or whether it requires corrective action, is harder to decide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the discomfort is only after &lt;em&gt;heavy&lt;/em&gt; exercise, like 40+ km rides in a headwind, I'd be inclined to say its because the pedals are new to you, and you're building the muscle you need to use them, as your body adapts to pulling up, not just pushing down on the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if this continues to be an issue for more than a few weeks, consider having a bike fit done which includes cleat positioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are not riding off road, and you have purchased mountain bike style SPDs, rather than the road version, consider getting the larger and more supportive version. Unfortunately, this would usually also require new shoes, but many riders report cramps, hot spots, and muscle soreness when riding longer, uninterrupted distances on MTB clipless pedal designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T04:00:07.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9277" CreationDate="2012-05-04T06:58:01.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to my copy of &quot;A Guide to Cycling Injuries...&quot; by Dr Domhnall MacAuley &quot;&lt;em&gt;Knee pain is almost an occupational hazard of cycling&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.  So some knee pain is common.  MacAuley does go on to say that, &quot;&lt;em&gt;For some, knee pain is inevitable&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the context of this question it seems like the rider has some tendency to knee pain but has not experienced chronic problems with a properly fitted bike so it should be possible to accommodate the change in pedal and return to comfortable rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it proves impossible to get the position (including saddle height) adjusted as per advice in the previous answer then it is possible that the change of pedal has restricted the freedom of movement of the foot causing stress on the knee, to continue from MacAuley:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Cleat pedals are manufactured for the anatomically perfect but we are all different and&#xA;  although some may have symmetrical feet and legs most of us are not biomechanically&#xA;  identical.  Clipless pedals will emphasise any anatomical anomaly or biomechanical&#xA;  misalignment.  If you have any tendency to knee pain then perhaps these pedals are not&#xA;  suitable.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before giving up, do check that you have sufficient float in the cleat/pedal, different systems provide for different levels of float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T06:58:01.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9277" CreationDate="2012-05-04T13:31:27.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;And in addition to checking your setup, float, fitting et al, check your insoles...have you got flat feet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suffered knee pain, and messed around with set-up and fitting for a long time until I discovered my flat feet where the cause.  Reason being as you power down your feet go flat and move the knee slightly.  So I got some good footbeds(Sole) that mould to and support my feet, took some rest and have never had a problem since(a year).  The footbeds in most cycling shoes are garbage, and that goes for running shoes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1217" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T13:31:27.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9287" CreationDate="2012-05-04T19:05:02.207" Score="3" ViewCount="2547" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having some problems with my seat. I have a Cube Analog Disc 2012 bike. After only 100km, the seat started creaking. I sent it back to the shop and received a brand new seat instead. But unfortunately, after another ~200km, the seats started creaking softly, but I believe that in a few days, the irritating creak from the first seat will come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth mentioning, that the creak comes from right under the seat, from the plastic that sustains the fabric; right between the front and rear supporting points. Also, I have only 66kg, so weight is not the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've included a photo so things would be clearer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/icxye.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone stumbled upon this issue? What should I do? I believe it's not a solution sending the seat back for replacement once every two weeks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3814" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-08-01T13:13:13.073" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T13:13:13.073" Title="Cube Scape seat creaking" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9286" CreationDate="2012-05-04T19:34:21.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that the issue is the seat itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 99 cases out of 100, the issue is that seat clamp at the top of the post that holds the saddle rails is loose, or wearing.  Usually loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grab your set of allen keys, find the 5mm or 6mm which will fit the 2 bolt there, and tighten them up to about 10-12 Nm. If it still creaks, consider replacing the post, but it shouldn't come to that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T19:34:21.273" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9225" CreationDate="2012-05-05T03:38:20.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with several of the above answers. A ride of about 80% of the total about a week before, with a smaller ride (if time allows) at least 4 days before the event. Then rest and eat well. &#xA;I also agree that time in the saddle is at least as important as the miles during training. That was a lesson I learned the hard way on my 1st century ride. My backside was VERY unforgiving. If you are riding 50 miles you should have spent at least that much time in the saddle, no matter the actual distance.&#xA;Hope that helps! &#xA;-- riding my 3rd Ojai Valley Century in 28 days . . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2863" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T03:38:20.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2012-05-05T14:30:30.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I log all my rides with a Garmin Oregon 450. After riding I download the data to my Mac and archive them using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.montebellosoftware.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ascent&lt;/a&gt;. The software lets you compare activities and gives you a lot of different metrics. You can also export your data in gpx, tcx etc. formats to use various online tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T14:30:30.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7038" CreationDate="2012-05-05T14:34:18.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a new Shimano CN HG-53 and it was covered in a honey-like lubrication. I wiped all that stuff of and used my own lubrication on the chain. Worst part of the factory-applied lube was, that it was all over the place just waiting to collect all kind of dirts on my first ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T14:34:18.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9226" CreationDate="2012-05-05T16:07:15.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spinning is fine if it's a long session but no substitute because your 100Km race is an endurance test for your muscles. So as others have said hydration is more important than your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the spinning but make sure you've ridden the 100KM on the real bike at least once before you do your trip. Just so you'll know what's coming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you enjoy it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4023" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T16:07:15.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9225" CreationDate="2012-05-05T21:08:39.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Resting. A week out you need to be taking it easy. You dont have time for muscle recovering or time for injuries. Keep it easy, light rides if anything at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to stay low a week out. My last century i was in the top 75 of 500 riders with this method, and felt great on race day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T21:08:39.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-05T21:52:49.707" Score="5" ViewCount="16669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just installed the CS-HG70 cassette and while doing some tuning, noticed that my chainring is no longer true, especially around the crank so am thinking about replacing the chainring set but can not find a decent 8 speed set but see a lots of 9 speed chainring set, can I use that instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4024" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T13:14:25.120" Title="Can I use a 9sp chainring set on my MTB which has a 8 speed Shimano CS-HG70 Cassette" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9245" CreationDate="2012-05-05T22:48:09.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried air and sunshine first? I turn my panniers inside out and put them by an open window every month or two &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning them inside out also makes it easy to remove debris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T22:48:09.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-05-05T23:36:59.647" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Hard Rock Pro I've changed tyres to Marathon Plus, upgraded crankset to a lighter one with bigger outer ring, better chain and faster/lighter rear cassette, wider contoured grips,  squeezed a full rear mudguard around my disc brake and fitted a front mudguard...I'm now told that I shouldn't be running 60-70psi because stock MTB wheels can't take it, so unless I pay out for better wheels I'll have to be slower by limiting myself to 50psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I didn't need a strong bike for my 800 metre potholed driveway I would definitely have sold it out for the best used road bike I could get and started my upgrading from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can hit over 36mph downhill on the road but even now, the speed at which road bike riders pass me is just embarrassing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I changed over to Tourney bigger crankset gearing and front mech to accomodate it, I think there's nothing I could do to make this bike as light and fast as a decent road bike - starting with a road bike will be much easier and cheaper for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4025" LastEditorUserId="4025" LastEditDate="2012-05-05T23:44:14.770" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T23:44:14.770" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9294" CreationDate="2012-05-06T05:05:45.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you should stay with gearing designed for the number of gears on your bike. If you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; use a different design, stay as close as possible to the original, and make sure you go to a larger number of gears, like the 9 speed you suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do use a 9 speed chainring set, be prepared for your shifting to suffer to some degree. (How much depends on the exact brands and specifications of your original, and the new set you pick. No, I don't have any way to tell you what to pick.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that you may occasionally drop your chain unpredictably. If it happens even once, then you need to find a good 8 speed set again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the 9 speed compatibility chart from Shimano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKQDn.png&quot; alt=&quot;9 speed chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the 6/7/8 speed compatibility chart from Shimano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fPSju.png&quot; alt=&quot;678 speed chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, there are no cranks listed as duplicated on both charts. /There is also a note indicating sub par shifting if even some closely interchangeable parts are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-06T12:45:02.337" LastActivityDate="2012-05-06T12:45:02.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9294" CreationDate="2012-05-06T09:15:37.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes; as long as you get a 7/8/9 speed compatible chainring set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean a strictly 9 speed labeled chainring set; Maybe. The more I look it seems opinion is divided between whether 6/7/8 speed chainrings are interchangeable with 9 speeds or not. A 9 speed chain is slightly narrower than a 6/7/8 speed chain, and this is especially important for the cassette. The distance from tooth-tooth is the same, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen some chainrings advertised as 8/9 speed compatible such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://bbbcycling.com/bike-parts/chainrings/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BBB Roundabout chainrings&lt;/a&gt; (8/9 speed compatible printed on the ring) or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOWA-MTB-CHAIN-RING-SET-48-36-24T-SHIMANO-7-8-9-SPEED-7075AL-FULL-CNC-BLUE-/200666084423?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item2eb8a17447#ht_6715wt_1163&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this set on eBay&lt;/a&gt; (Mowa MTB Chainring Set).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a possiblity that they are mistaken about the compatibility as @zenbike suggests, but both of those sources have good return policies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting that &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html#chainrings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; describes this as a non-issue in either direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2012-05-06T20:58:50.300" LastActivityDate="2012-05-06T20:58:50.300" CommentCount="20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2012-05-06T12:11:51.653" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I add another app to this question : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coachmyride.com/fr?utm_campaign=bicylesStackExchange&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CoachMyRide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CoachMyRide is an iOS (iPhone and iPhone Touch) application dedicated to improve your training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4028" LastActivityDate="2012-05-06T12:11:51.653" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-06T12:11:51.653" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9301" CreationDate="2012-05-06T13:35:10.917" Score="3" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most common maintenance tasks on my Mongoose Tyax Super is to tighten a small screw in my front brake level. It shakes loose both due to use, and from a habit I picked up riding in Cambodia, where I &quot;tick tick tick&quot; the level as a subtle alternative to ringing a bell when passing pedestrians. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that I could use loctite or some tap/adhesive, but I'd still like to be able to remove/clean/replace this screw. I like to adjust it between downhill and commute (I like less travel and more give on downhill). Any tips? Cheap solutions, and retail solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2852" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T00:53:53.970" Title="Stop my front brake lever screws from vibrating out?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9300" CreationDate="2012-05-06T15:03:57.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm&quot;&gt;Loctite Blue 242&lt;/a&gt; is a light duty, adjustable, and removable loctite designed for jobs like this one. It will prevent vibration from loosening your screws without preventing the adjustment you need for your brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-06T15:03:57.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9277" CreationDate="2012-05-07T01:45:40.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should note where on your knee(s) the pain is originating. Is it on the side? The front? The back? Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cptips.com/knee.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously, when I was riding with SPDs, I had a misaligned cleat (but didn't know it). I was getting pain on the outside of my right knee. I went to a fitting, and after describing why I was there, the first thing the fitter looked at was the SPD cleat on my right shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the cleat was aligned, the pain went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to check your overall fit. If you can find a professional fitter, and plan to ride a lot, it would probably be worth it to get fitted. If you don't want to pay for that, I would suggest that you try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this online fit computer&lt;/a&gt; and see how the outputs match with the current configuration of your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T01:45:40.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9226" CreationDate="2012-05-07T01:52:22.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience the saddles on gym spin bikes are often a little more plush than a typical &quot;real&quot; bike saddle. Thus, one part of your body that you will never train, no matter how many spin classes you attend, is your butt's ability to tolerate a bike saddle for 50-75 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the only way to train your butt to sit without significant discomfort on a real bike saddle for 50-75 miles is to sit on a real bike saddle for a significant number of miles. Several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a coworker on an easy, flat 25-mile route, and he was not accustomed to being on a bike saddle for that long. By the time we got back, he was effectively riding on one cheek, because the saddle was paining him so. His speed had slowed to a crawl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T01:52:22.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2012-05-07T03:56:50.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have really been liking the garmin app. It tracks the best for my area, maintains solid connection, and seems like its accurate overall. Also good on battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www8.garmin.com/apps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Garmin Apps&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T03:56:50.740" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-07T03:56:50.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9306" CreationDate="2012-05-07T04:17:06.783" Score="11" ViewCount="8955" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chainrings are sold as having a specific compatibility for only certain speed setups, some overlapping across many. What physically makes this the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I understand, 5/6/7/8/9 speed chains all have the same &lt;em&gt;internal&lt;/em&gt; width, 3/32&quot;, and the only difference is the &lt;em&gt;external&lt;/em&gt; width of the chain. Does this also extend through 10/11 speeds as well, or do they have smaller internal widths which would necessitate skinnier chain rings as well? Or is it the case that the external width just keeps shrinking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF the difference is only the external width, then it would seem the only compatibility issues would not be in the chainrings themselves, but the spacing in between each one. If it was too small/too wide a chain, the chain would hit the next chainring, and if it was significantly too large the chain may fall in between rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it would seem that you could use the same rings with a wider chain (9 speed rings with a 5/6/7/8 speed chain) if you put appropriate spacers between the rings, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://branfordbike.com/itemdetails.cfm?id=808&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. The opposite may be possible if you're willing to grid / mill the appropriate amount off the mounting pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this would also imply is that with the right width spacers (and bolts that can accomodate them) you could always go &lt;strong&gt;down&lt;/strong&gt; speeds with a given set of chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is not the case (say 11 speeds have a different internal width), then they might be too wide for the chain an you'd have to remove material near the teeth to make them fit inside the chain or conversely that you'd be wearing on less of the chain than you should so your chain wouldn't last as long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, some rings are marketed as 5/6/7/8 speed only, some 9 speed only, and some 5/6/7/8/9 compatible. Is this some sort of blending of the two specifications (the spacing being some compromise between true 8/9 speeds) or just that they're made for one but tested to work on the other (or just a marketing trick)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T04:38:54.760" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T11:29:31.317" Title="What physically makes chainrings have a specific speed compatibility?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9305" CreationDate="2012-05-07T11:29:31.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The internal width is obviously one important feature.  But for indexed shifting the ring has a pattern embossed on the side facing the smaller ring that catches the pins of the chain when shifting.  The combo of the embossing depth/pattern and the ring-to-ring spacing affects what width chain (and brand chain) will work best with the ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've no idea what combos can be expected to work with what, though.  I lost track when they went to 8 speeds, and now it's a total free-for-all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T11:29:31.317" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9340" CreationDate="2012-05-07T12:40:56.423" Score="2" ViewCount="10423" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you say it's a cheap bike, what more do you want... I get that! :D&#xA;But it's brand new, and as you pedal it... no matter the speed, you get a pop sound at a specific point on each rotation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could / should I do to help silence this sound and make the ride more enjoyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise if you can!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VIDEO UPDATE:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I uploaded this video of the happenings ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/lbeRBvuGl1g?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4032" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T18:03:47.800" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T14:01:32.713" Title="Huffy Cranbrook 26&quot; Ladies' Cruiser crank / pedal / chain &quot;pop&quot; sound...?" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9309" CreationDate="2012-05-07T14:13:45.437" Score="17" ViewCount="38377" Body="&lt;p&gt;My used bike came with a 700x28 tire in front and a 700x23 tire in back. Should I leave the wider tire in front, or should I switch the tires? What benefits or drawbacks are there one way or the other? Is there any particular reason why the previous owner might have chosen non-matching tires? Is there any reason I should go out of my way to buy a new tire to make them match?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The found a little bit of information about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#mixing&quot;&gt;tire sizing&lt;/a&gt;, but I still don't feel like I know what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T03:01:08.523" Title="Should I put my wider tire in front or in back?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9308" CreationDate="2012-05-07T14:48:38.467" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally on a road bike it is considered better to run tires of equal size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few newer tires which are designed to run different sizes front and rear, but they are usually within 2 mm of each other. (Like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/race/racetyres/gp_attack_force/gpattackforce_en.html&quot;&gt;Continental Attack/Force combination&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider a jump from 28c to 23c somewhat large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, run the larger on the rear. The higher air volume will make for a more comfortable ride, and the narrower front tire will steer quicker, which makes for more reactive handling, and has a better aero profile, (which may or may not matter to you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comfort part will matter though, and I'd say that's a trump card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T14:48:38.467" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9308" CreationDate="2012-05-07T15:09:40.370" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have to make a choice, put the wider tire on the back.  Generally there's more weight on the back, plus having the wider tire in front will make make steering more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Most likely the previous owner had to replace one of the tires and just used what was available.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T15:09:40.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-07T15:18:36.237" Score="3" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;i fitted a set of cheap &quot;thin&quot; (racing bike size) rims with 32 mm tyres. the fork allows even bigger tyres to be mounted. is it a problem if i fit the bike with Deore LX v-brakes ? will it brake decently ? and what handles would u recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4033" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T01:54:12.757" Title="Can i use v brakes on racing bike rims?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9311" CreationDate="2012-05-07T15:46:06.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;32mm tires with v-brakes is a very common configuration on hybrids. You should have no problem with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T15:46:06.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9316" CreationDate="2012-05-07T17:05:54.560" Score="16" ViewCount="18471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a 44-year-old guy, 250 lbs (yes, overweight). I have not been on a bike in over 15 years.  I just picked up a 12 Trek Marlin (Gary Fisher Collection) this weekend, and after riding for about 2 miles, I was done...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I build up my muscles and endurance so I can ride longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3930" LastEditorUserId="2424" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T20:06:44.533" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T12:07:39.880" Title="How can a beginner cyclist build up power?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9313" CreationDate="2012-05-07T17:58:42.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep riding, as often as you can. If your legs get sore, rest until they are mostly better. Little by little you'll be able to go faster and further.  Just keep your rides appropriate for your level. Don't over do it.  Try to push yourself harder every now and then. Do hills when you have the energy. You'll work up to bigger ones. You might have to walk up a hill a few times before you can conquer it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first few rides you do are just going to be getting accustomed to the bike, and figuring out how to balance properly. Read up on how to adjust your seat. Try and tweak it before each ride until you get a height that works for you. You don't want to feel like you're kneeing yourself in the chest when you pedal. Learn how the derailer works. Try experimenting with it on flat ground to go faster or easier. After you get to the point where you can ride a few more miles, make yourself go up hills, that will force you to learn how to use the derailer better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just keep riding and soon you'll find that you'll get better. There are no secrets just fitness, persistence, and experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T20:05:45.760" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T20:05:45.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9313" CreationDate="2012-05-07T18:25:22.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a similar age but a bit lighter. I started to ride to lose weight and get fitter, when I first started, 3to 4 miles was a struggle, now about 8 months later I can regularly cycle 30 miles in a few hours and can get up some pretty big hills with ease. I found using a gps tracking device a really good way of monitoring my performance.  I'm also 20lbs lighter now. I ride a mixture of road and dirt tracks. Keep going it will soon get a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4037" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T18:25:22.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9313" CreationDate="2012-05-07T18:54:23.133" Score="27" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep on riding.&lt;/strong&gt; Ideally every couple days. If you can't ride, do some other form of cardio exercise, such as going for a walk. I'll bet a couple days after that ride you'll find the same distance a little easier and might even be able to go a little further.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get a day of rest.&lt;/strong&gt; If you've pushed yourself really hard and you're &quot;done&quot;, take a day off before getting back on the bike. (or at least before doing anything hard on the bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may need to tweak the &lt;strong&gt;bike fit&lt;/strong&gt;. Make sure you can inhale fully. Forward/aft position of the seat as well as vertical position of the seat can make a difference in power. Ball of your foot should be on the spindle of the pedal, when the pedal is straight forward your knee should be over the pedal, and at the bottom of your pedal stroke your leg should be near full extension (but still knee a bit bent). You shouldn't need to stretch your leg or rock your hips to reach the pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build your &lt;strong&gt;leg strength&lt;/strong&gt;, especially quads. Squats or leg presses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay attention to your &lt;strong&gt;pedaling technique&lt;/strong&gt;. Don't mash the pedals hard in a high gear. Move them faster in a lower gear, move your leg smoothly through the entire pedal motion and try to pull your foot up a little as it comes up, but without removing your foot from the pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interval training.&lt;/strong&gt; This is the most important thing for building your endurance. Once you're warmed up, ride as hard as you can for 30-60 seconds, then ride easy for several minutes. As you build up endurance, increase from doing that once to doing that several times during a ride. If you can't do 30 seconds, do what you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above all else: have fun riding. Don't torture yourself. Enjoy yourself. If you have fun you'll keep it up and keeping up the riding will make more of a difference than any small details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's the &quot;thorough&quot; version.  But &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8/neil-fein&quot;&gt;Neil Fein&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9313/how-can-a-beginner-cyclist-build-up-power#comment15068_9313&quot;&gt;version&lt;/a&gt; covers it pretty well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;Ride often. Rest. Repeat often.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T21:17:14.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="42178" CreationDate="2012-05-08T01:04:36.247" Score="10" ViewCount="38782" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the last two months I have experienced something new: three inner-tubes (700X25) have popped with holes immediately around the valve and on the same side of the tube as the valve. I suspect there is a deficit of support for the tube as the hole in the rim for the valve is slightly larger than necessary (1-2mm bigger in diameter that I would think best). Should I replace the rim-tape? How may the proper support be imparted to the inner-tube around the valve? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1339" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T16:41:05.683" Title="How To Prevent Holes Around The Inner-tube Valve?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9319" CreationDate="2012-05-08T02:15:41.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 things to try, in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the valve hole in the rim for burrs or sharps. It's possible that something left from the machining of the rim is cutting the tube. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you are using the correct tube and valve style.  There is not normally any significant space around the valve. If there is in your case, you may need to use a schrader valve in place of the presta valve it appears you are using. Check the diameter of the hole. 5mm = presta. 8mm = schrader valve. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you aren't  damaging the tube with excessive movement when inflating it.  Use a floor pump, and make sure there is no excessive force on the valve. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also be the result of riding the tire while the pressure is too low. When you do that the tube tends to move in the tire and can get cut against the edge of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T02:15:41.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9319" CreationDate="2012-05-08T03:23:58.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A picture would probably be very helpful. In particular, a close-up picture of the rim around the valve hole, with the tire installed and at least partially inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the diagnosis of a Presta valve being used &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000AO9QX8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;without a grommet&lt;/a&gt; in a rim drilled for a Schrader valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it may be possible that more than one thing is causing your flats. When you install a new tube in a tire, the rubber holding the valve to the tube can get caught under the bead, and this can cause a flat. The remedy is to push the valve into the tire when you install it. What I mean is, push on the valve stem, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kixcPuk6p_M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like you see in the first 15-20 seconds of this video.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too, sometimes the adhesive on rim tape is not good, due to age, oxidation, or the rim tape itself is poor quality (like the tape sold by a large national chain of bicycle stores). The tape can move around during the installation of a new tube, exposing spoke holes and/or valve holes. This can cause a flat. The best solution is to either use good rim tape, of the proper width for your rim, or, even better, to use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00276F5ZK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rim strip.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T03:23:58.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9313" CreationDate="2012-05-08T03:40:39.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php/248-Clydesdales-Athenas-%28200-lb-91-kg%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this forum&lt;/a&gt; for some encouragement and support. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/228767-Weight-Loss-Post-Your-Before-and-After-Pics-here!&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;many inspiring stories that people there have shared.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride faithfully-- three or four times per week-- you will find that your ability will increase rapidly for a time. In my own case, when I first started to ride, I found just going a few miles was quite a workout. But within about four months, I went from riding around 5 miles at once to riding 20-25 miles at once, at a reasonable speed. In order to do that, I was riding about 3-4 times per week, and gradually increasing the distance and difficulty. Once I was able to ride 20-25 miles at once, I joined a cycling group at my church, and that was very, very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding with a group helps keep me accountable. When I miss a ride, people ask me why I was absent. It helps me not to be lazy. So I would also encourage you, once you have achieved a little bit of stamina, to look for a group you can ride with. You want the riders in the group to be reasonably close to your ability, or it will not be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final thought: regarding your bicycle, it is probably a good choice. The riding position will be more comfortable for someone who is overweight (I know from experience). Generally I would say offroad riding is harder than on-road or bike trail/MUP riding, so you may want to consider where you ride. I only attempted offroad riding after I was a seasoned road/MUP rider. Of course, everyone is different, so YMMV. However I think you should consider replacing your knobby tires with &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/07795&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;road tires&lt;/a&gt; if you not riding dirt. Knobbies can add a lot of rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2012-05-08T03:48:31.740" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T03:48:31.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9338" CreationDate="2012-05-08T07:39:32.350" Score="5" ViewCount="1694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 21 years old. I'm overweight for my age..171 ibs. I have started cycling few months back and I'm lovin' it. I have a Merida mtb(mainly used on the road) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about practicing some basic mtb stunts mentioned above. Can I do those with my overweight body? If yes, then what should I attempt first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4041" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T20:56:04.613" Title="Bunny Hop, Stoppie or Wheelie? Which one to attempt first on MTB?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9334" CreationDate="2012-05-08T08:43:09.987" Score="1" ViewCount="9999" Body="&lt;p&gt;While watching a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iAWoQlgfgwo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;snow biking video&lt;/a&gt;, I saw that some of the bikes use a true swingarm design, which matches most motorcycles (as does much of bicycle technology). While this looks rather interesting, I'm wondering why it's so uncommon (and much more common are multi-linkage, seemingly more complex designs)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found the bicycle he was riding, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://chumbaracing.blogspot.com/2010/05/black-gold-f5-show-bike-from-france.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chumba F5&lt;/a&gt;, shown here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://3.bp.blogspot.com/_D_Q1tywjcuQ/S_04qffSxEI/AAAAAAAAAkE/KGDFCxviqOg/s320/F5-detail-bras-ano.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swingarm Design&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon more searching, it's also used on &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike198.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/fury-1-300x201.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mountain Cycle Fury Frames&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motopeds.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Motoped Kits&lt;/a&gt; as well, but an overwhelming majority do not use this design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to guess, I'd say it was solely weight concerns to not use this design with less moving parts. It also (seems to) allow for more travel, so is there perhaps an upper limit on how much travel you can get with the multi-linkage design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, I've seen the Y-Frames (especially on BSOs) criticized for having poor flex characteristics. Does it again just come back to the weight issue in that more reinforcement is required for these designs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.167" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T19:23:58.317" Title="Why is the swingarm design uncommon / rare on full suspension bicycles?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9328" CreationDate="2012-05-08T12:10:55.107" Score="5" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't race and never will race. However, I am very interested in learning more about it. I read a number of cycling magazines, and I read about so many different racing terms, strategy etc. but they are never explained. Does any know of a good source (like a Bicycle Racing 101 course) where I can learn more about racing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-08T13:30:14.687" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T09:12:01.967" Title="Learning more about racing" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2012-05-08T14:30:15.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MP3 player feature is great. I love listening to music while I am cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T14:30:15.507" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-08T14:30:15.507" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9326" CreationDate="2012-05-08T15:12:23.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is to watch television coverage of races. For just learning, it is even better than actually being at a race because you can see what is going on and there's plenty of background stories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now is the BEST time for stage racing because the Giro has just started&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.steephill.tv/giro-d-italia/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Steephill.tv&lt;/a&gt; has bunch of links for online video coverage of the Giro. If you have sports cable channels check those too. The Tour de France in July is also fantastic because of the coverage, but the Giro is usually a more interesting and gritty spectacle, IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T15:12:23.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2742" CreationDate="2012-05-08T18:26:28.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You absolutely can shift front and back simultaneously. However, there is only one scenario where it makes sense and it does require that your mechs to be in tip-top working order and some level of finesse on your part. Moreover, it might only apply to modern Campy derailleurs (don't know about sram, shimano).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one scenario where it makes sense is if you have rapidly come to the bottom of a steep hill where you KNOW you're going to HAVE TO be in your small chainring. In that situation, I will use both my thumbs to simultaneously thrust the chain to the small chainring and to a small cog (on campy you can sweep across more than one cog with a shift). Doing this will keep you from suffering a huge discontinuity in cadence and you'll be ready to shift one at a time to bigger cogs before your cadence is about to drop. Everyone I know who uses campy does this type of shift at the bottom of very steep hills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is good to do because shifting the chainring is somewhat dicey under high torque and low cadence. Better to do it earlier rather than later, and if you are doing it earlier, you'll ALSO want to be in a smaller cog initially so you don't mess up your cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T18:26:28.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-08T18:26:58.263" Score="2" ViewCount="901" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can this frame be used to build a decent road bike for someone 1.73m (5.6 feet)? It has 58cm ST, 58cm TT. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rte3P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7005 aluminum Easton Ultralite aero tubing. 1&quot; aluminum threadless fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm coming from MBX and never even rode a road bike :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the things i should look for? nothing too indepth, just the major mistakes i can make when starting with a frameset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one thing, is a 15yr old aluminium aero even a good choice these days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-08T19:12:52.863" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T19:12:52.863" Title="Is this a good road bike frameset to consider building for a 5'6&quot; rider?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9330" CreationDate="2012-05-08T18:46:06.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a basic alu frame from a lesser known mfg. Probably fine. Some things to consider with a new (or used) frame: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check alignment of frame and fork, check that spacing is correct for your hubs. (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sheldon brown article&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look for cracks. Should be easy to see with yellow paint.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have BB professionally installed. This will ensure that your cranks are in proper alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At 15 years old, the frame may or may not use recessed nuts on the brakes. If not, your brake caliper choice will be limited.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't help you with sizing. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Competitve cyclist&lt;/a&gt; has an elaborate sizing procedure that you can use to determine if a frame is approximately correct. It depends on your exact measurements, not just height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2012-05-08T18:56:01.177" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T18:56:01.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9330" CreationDate="2012-05-08T19:02:01.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the age of the frame, it's limitations in terms of component choice, and the size of the frame compared to what I would expect a rider of the height described by the OP to ride, I would say building this frame is a waste of money and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a rider who is 5'6&quot; tall, a typical frame size is 52cm. This frame is a 58 cm, 3 sizes large. Even if you have an unusual body type which pushes you to a larger than average frame, unless you are wildly out of proportion, you will not move up by 3 frame sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, since the frame is alloy, and 15 years old, at least, there is the issue of metal fatigue to consider. While many people ride alloy bikes which are 10 or more years old, the useful, efficient life of an alloy frame is typically 5 years. Had you owned and ridden this bike for 10 years, so that you were familiar with its limitations, handling, and perhaps attached to the frame sentimentally, I might consider rebuilding it. Since that is not the case, I would not spend the money to build a frame with no useful life left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last, if you build this frame, it is likely that you will have difficulty sourcing properly sized parts, or will have to compromise with shims and adaptors to make the build work. I know that 1&quot; stems are getting rare, and it's possible that the axle width on this frame is narrower than a typical modern road bike, although that is only guesswork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, I see many reasons not to build it, and none to go ahead. But at the end of the day, it's your bike, and your body. You will need to decide for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T19:02:01.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9330" CreationDate="2012-05-08T19:06:44.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible for anyone to give firm answers to any of these questions without more detail. Get in contact your LBS. However, my gut reactions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame is probably too big for you. I'm 6'2&quot; and comfortably ride a 58cm frame. At 5'6&quot;, you will likely want something smaller. Use an online &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fit calculator&lt;/a&gt; or go into your LBS to get fitted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbon forks are a significant improvement over aluminum, and you can easily find inexpensive bikes with aluminum frames and carbon forks or completely carbon frame and fork. Unless you're getting a &lt;em&gt;great&lt;/em&gt; deal on this frame, I suspect you can do much better for an equivalent price.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the fork is threaded (i.e., the steer tube has screw threads going up it), I'd pass. Virtually all road bikes nowadays use threadless steerers, so finding good threaded road stems is becoming more and more difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other component compatibility would need to be determined by your LBS. What's the threading of the BB shell? What's the dropout spacing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The condition of the frame would need to evaluated by your LBS. Are there cracks? Structural weaknesses? Aluminum fatigues constantly throughout use unlike steel or carbon. Steel can potentially last forever, while aluminum has a fundamentally limited lifespan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the price, I can't say definitively, but all my instincts say to pass on this one. It's probably too big for you, objectively better frames are likely comparatively cheap, and potential component compatibility issues won't exist with newer frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T19:06:44.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9325" CreationDate="2012-05-08T19:23:58.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This swing arm design has fallen into near complete disuse in the bicycle world for 2 reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, there is translated suspension activation from pedaling. This design does not isolate pedaling or other rider generated forces from ground generated forces. Because of that, there is a loss of efficiency which makes it a poor choice for a bicycle suspension design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second, the travel path of a single pivot swing arm carries the wheel forward as it moves through its travel path, because of the arc described by the wheel. If your rear brake is in use, the wheel is prevented from following that arc, and some or all of your suspension travel is lost until the brake is released. In a 4 bar linkage design, or similar vertical travel design, brake activation does not prevent suspension activation. Thus it has become the default design for high quality dual suspension bikes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T19:23:58.317" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9348" CreationDate="2012-05-08T20:30:33.467" Score="4" ViewCount="1589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a surly karate monkey set up as a single speed. The frame has rear facing horizontal dropouts (track style).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like quick releases due to potential theft when locking up my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are standard Allen key skewers or security skewers (like hublox or pitlock) going to hold my rear wheel tight enough to avoid sliding forward in the dropouts?  If not, would &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001NOECEC&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;zefal locking skewers&lt;/a&gt; be appropriate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T22:21:56.617" Title="Are Allen key or Security Key skewers appropriate for bikes with rear facing horizontal dropouts" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;skewer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9324" CreationDate="2012-05-08T20:56:04.613" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overweight is relation to height rather than age, but that really isn't an issue at all with performing &quot;stunts&quot;. I am 175 and was in the x-games performing &quot;stunts&quot;. The most useful &quot;stunt&quot; in the sport (that I can think of ATM) is the bunnyhop! This basic maneuver is the one that will get you further in this sport than almost anything else. You can get over curbs, rocks, rivers, cracks, etc. Wheelies are cool and help in skatepark contests, and for a short distance might help with getting up on things, but it is really just the first step in a bunnyhop. Wheelies are the only trick where weight can be a factor since you will be torquing your chain, but that shouldn't matter in your decision (going up hills does the same thing). Endos (stoppies) are not practical for anything I can think of except to practice front end balance. Bottom line: LEARN BUNNYHOPS FIRST!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T20:56:04.613" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9326" CreationDate="2012-05-08T21:06:54.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned a lot about racing when I had a roommate who was on a local team and raced full-time for a couple years (and then part-time since.)  You probably don't want to take on a roomie just to learn about racing, but you might be able to volunteer to help out a local team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also learned a lot reading my roommate's &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/inside-the-magazine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velo News&lt;/a&gt; magazines.  I don't know if it's the same now, at the time it was a magazine for serious racers, not at all like the glossy newsstand magazines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T21:06:54.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9307" CreationDate="2012-05-08T21:07:04.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the chain is too tight. You say it is only at a specific spot in the rotation which leads me to believe your chainring being slightly off center (I have not found one 100% perfect) is causing the popping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flip the bike on it's back and spin the cranks slowly. If it is a freewheel pedal, it backwards since this will not engage the sprocket. If it is a coaster, you will have to pedal it forwards. If you notice the chain get really tight then loose as you do this, adjust your chain. Find the same spot the pedals are at where it gets the tightest and loosen then tighten the rear wheel with the cranks in the same spot so that the tightest it will get is where you just set it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chain tension was not the problem, you might need to check the bearings. Huffys almost never have sealed bearings and they can be over under tightened, either being a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T21:07:04.977" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9337" CreationDate="2012-05-08T21:24:50.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how aggressive you ride. If you are a casual rider and rarely do many jumps or drops then they should work just fine. I am a pretty aggressive rider and have snapped more than my fair share of skewers trying to keep the wheel in place. I have also snapped a number of hollow axles because they are just not strong enough for the riding I do. So I switched to solid axles which are stronger (ultimately cheaper too). I have never had a problem with theft since I lock my both wheels with the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If solid axles are not what you are looking for, I like the pitlock (that doesnt have the hex outer body), they can both be removed by a determined thief with a pipe-wrench, but the inactive side is smaller and harder to grip. Either one will hold the wheel in place about the same though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T21:24:50.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2449" CreationDate="2012-05-08T21:43:12.823" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure this is even still an issue for the original poster, but I didn't see the answer I would have given to his actual question: [&quot;I have a mountain bike tire that has stamped on the side something like: &amp;lt;----------front rear-------------&gt; Which seems like a pretty clear indication that the tire should be oriented in one direction when used in the front, and the opposite when used in the rear. Is that right?&quot;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the tire stamp is pointing in the direction of the front/rear of the bike. Almost assuredly the stamp is actually &amp;lt;---- Rear/Front ------&gt; (rather than Front/Rear) since the industry standard is to stamp this on the right side of the tire. This will put the stamp and colored logos on the same side as the sprocket (not sure if that means anything but that is how I was taught). This is how the manufacturer felt their tire would best be used with air flow and grip, but you can flip it either way depending on your purpose. (I use the logo/direction arrows to mark the tire at the air valve so that when I find a hole in my tube, I can find the thorn easier in the tire as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, if there are 2 direction arrows on the same tire, one says something like &quot;Direction Front&quot; and the other says &quot;Direction Rear&quot; then you would flip the tire depending on if you are using it on the front or rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T21:43:12.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9300" CreationDate="2012-05-09T00:53:53.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I would go with @zenbike's answer of the Loctite Blue first, if you wanted an alternative you could also use something for an adjustable locknut, similar to most brake lever cable adjusters (shown below). This has the benefit of being able to be adjusted (and resecured) by your fingers, instead of carrying an allen wrench with you to overcome the loctite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.decathlon.co.uk/media/815/8158438/zoom_asset_71549119.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brake Lever Adjustment Knobs&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're talking about the lever stop adjustment, but the same concept would apply; thread a small nut over it that would secure the smaller screw against the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bombayharbor.com/productImage/0877076001159261420/Bicycle_Parts_Brake_Lever.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This lever&lt;/a&gt; uses a spring to keep the screw in place, but in my experience they always vibrate loose anyway. Go with loctite or a locknut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.180" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T00:53:53.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9311" CreationDate="2012-05-09T01:54:12.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that your frame has the mounts for v-brakes, there is no reason why the rim should prevent you from using them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of bicycle types which use standard road rims which are designed with v-brakes or mini v-brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to pay attention to the type of brake lever, since most road levers and a lot of older MTB levers are not compatible with v-brakes, or at least require mini v-brakes because of the amount of cable pull required.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T01:54:12.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9326" CreationDate="2012-05-09T09:12:01.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to watching, there are lots of things to read, for instance the great autobiographies like Laurent Fignon's &lt;em&gt;We Were Young and Carefree&lt;/em&gt; (&quot;&lt;em&gt;Nous étions jeunes et insouciants&lt;/em&gt;&quot;), Bobet's &lt;em&gt;Tommorow We Ride&lt;/em&gt; and David Millar's &lt;em&gt;Riding Through The Dark&lt;/em&gt; - all of these have large sections devoted to races, racing and reacting to events. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Rider&lt;/em&gt; by Tim Krabbe is fiction, but not really, giving wonderfully evocative descriptions of being a racing cyclist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some good bloggers, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://inthesaddleblog.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;In The Saddle&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rouleurmagazine.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rouleur Magazine&lt;/a&gt; (which has some great articles if you can find it in your locale).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then go to YouTube and search for Sunday in Hell. Probably the best movie ever made about cycling, not all about the strategies, but definitely a lot about how to race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T09:12:01.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9337" CreationDate="2012-05-09T12:15:08.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no issue with using a Q/R or fixed end anti theft skewer on a horizontal dropout. They are well above the threshold of strength required to fix your wheel in the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T12:15:08.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9350" CreationDate="2012-05-09T17:21:44.317" Score="-3" ViewCount="1565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/collections/eco_design/atwood_wsd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek Atwood WSD&lt;/a&gt; for my wife. She's about 5'3&quot; so the size I ordered is 15&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about bicycles and was wondering if this model is a good bike for a beginner. Also, is Trek a reputable bicycle company?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3904" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T18:02:51.230" Title="Is Trek Atwood a good bike?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-09-13T13:40:16.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9349" CreationDate="2012-05-09T17:57:13.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trek is a large reputable bicycle company. They make a lot of bikes. They're basically all good, if used for what they're made for. There may be a few models now and then that have problems, but that's true of all the bicycle companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Trek Atwood WSD appears to basically be a steel version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_1_fx_stagger/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek 7.1 FX Stagger&lt;/a&gt; with some details to make it look a bit more &quot;classic&quot;. It's a &quot;hybrid&quot;, which are good all-around bikes for riding on paved surfaces. They sell a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of bicycles with that basic frame shape. It's a very popular general style of bike, from Trek and from other bicycle companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hybrids like the Trek Atwood and Trek FX are generally what I would suggest most people shopping for a bike look at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely a good choice for a beginner, as long as she likes the bike and is comfortable on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If she's not comfortable on it, you should probably explore getting the fit of the bike adjusted instead of switching to a different bike. It's common to change to a different saddle and to get the handlebars moved around a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-09T18:02:51.230" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T18:02:51.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9319" CreationDate="2012-05-09T18:09:22.313" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a spate of these; all the tubes had an elliptical, smooth rubber section immediately around the valve, and then a weld joining this to the body of the tube. The failure was always at this weld, and it looked as if the tube had herniated (bulged out in a single spot before bursting there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After ruling out tape problems, burrs, sharps, valve hole diameter etc. - I finally figured out the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elliptical section is less flexible than the main body of the tube, so after pushing it above the bead as Zippy suggests, it wasn't fully descending to sit flush against the rim. This left a void between the rim and the less-flexible part of the tube around the valve; the &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; flexible section of the rim then tried to expand around the weld to fill this gap, and that's where it burst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is (touch wood) to pull the valve back down after the tyre is seated and the tube partially inflated, and tighten the nut more than usual (and then slacken off).  When the tyre is fully inflated, double-check that there is no bump near the valve, that the bead is seated properly there, and that the valve doesn't move if you tug it towards the hub (not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; hard!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T18:09:22.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9360" CreationDate="2012-05-09T20:25:01.537" Score="11" ViewCount="6039" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Park Tool &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/handlebar-tape-installation-drop-bars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Handlebar Tape Installation&lt;/a&gt; guide suggests that the direction of wrapping can be either self tightening or prone to loosening. Its basic instructions make the tape self-tightening on the tops. The guide also describes how to start wrapping in a direction that makes the tape self-tightening in the drops, and then at the brake levers to switch to a direction that makes the tape self-tightening on the tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much of a difference does the direction of wrapping make in practice? Is loosening of handlebar wrap a common problem? Are there any downsides to reversing the direction of handlebar tape at the brake levers, and if so, is it worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-04T08:44:36.370" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T08:44:36.370" Title="Is it worth it to reverse the wrap direction of handlebar tape at the brake levers?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9352" CreationDate="2012-05-09T20:56:39.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have wrapped bars both ways, and have never really noticed a difference. That said, I do now reverse the direction of the wraps due to personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T20:56:39.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5744" CreationDate="2012-05-09T22:36:12.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ridden road bikes of all sorts over many years in road races, time trials and over many miles of general riding and club runs. For most of those years the bikes had forks made of Reynolds or Colombus steels but with a reasonable rake. In later years the rake decreased and in some cases disappeared altogether with the result that the front of the bikes became almost rigid. Straight or almost straight forks may be more fashionable but they transfer all the shock directly into the rider's arms. A high quality lightweight Reynolds Tubing (or similar) front fork with a slightly raked bottom section is surprisingly good at absorbing shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4054" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T22:36:12.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9358" CreationDate="2012-05-10T13:32:33.473" Score="4" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cube Analog Disc 2012 bike, and recently discovered that I have no screws inserted in the bottle cage mounts. Is it possible for rust to form in this area? Also, is it possible for the water to enter inside the tube and develop rust on the inside (since there is no hole at the bottom of the frame, I believe water will remain inside until it clears off)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3814" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T19:21:21.230" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T19:21:21.230" Title="Can missing cage mount screws cause the frame to rust?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9357" CreationDate="2012-05-10T13:53:09.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible for water or sweat to enter the frame, and for corrosion to build up. Any rust would be most likely to happen on the steel bolt (which is missing) rather than on the aluminum frame, but oxidization comes in many forms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is unlikely to cause you any significant issues, it's an easy fix. Any M4 threaded allen bolt, between 1.5 and 2.5cm will fit just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stop by the hardware store or your LBS, and you'll be sorted in just a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T13:53:09.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9352" CreationDate="2012-05-10T13:57:22.847" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is worth it, because it adds to the longevity of the useful period of utility for your tape, and is more likely to be comfortable and stable in the bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you wrap to the outside of the drops, figure 8 around the hoods, which will leave you wrapping from back to front on the tops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, starting your wrap from the bar end at the bottom of the drop, you wrap the tape so that it crosses from the frame side to the outside of the bar. This direction will necessarily be opposite on the other side of the bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So counter-clockwise from the rear of the drop on the non drive side of the bike, and clockwise on the drive side. On the tops of the bars, the tape should pass under the bar toward the bike, and over the bar away from the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That fits the rotation direction of your grip, and will hold the tape in place, rather than forcing it looser (or off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-19T04:40:50.273" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T04:40:50.273" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9357" CreationDate="2012-05-10T14:29:34.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike has aluminium frame, it can not suffer from rust. There is such thing as aluminium corrosion, but it is a very slow process, you bike will be fine for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, of course, you better cover the holes. Cheap solution is a piece of tape, but you can either buy a bottle cage or any screws that fit there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T14:29:34.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16720" CreationDate="2012-05-10T15:35:30.407" Score="5" ViewCount="6946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm switching from an android phone to an iphone soon. I use the google maps bike directions all the time to figure out how to get to friend's houses, restaurants, bars and navigating around a new city, usually with no pre-planning on a computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my droid, I just bring up google maps, type in an address, and get bike directions.  However, the iphone doesn't have bike directions on the maps app.  What is a good native app alternative for the iphone?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not trying to track my rides. Just trying to figure out how to get from A to B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;It does seem that the cycling layer and bike directions are serviceable in a pinch on the google maps website when viewed on the iPhone or android device, but a native app would be more desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: June 2014 : Google Maps on the iPhone does support bicycle routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T04:14:21.507" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T04:14:21.507" Title="What map / navigation / bike direction apps are available for the iphone for commuting / urban cycling" Tags="&lt;maps&gt;&lt;iphone&gt;&lt;software&gt;&lt;navigation&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9367" CreationDate="2012-05-10T18:24:30.237" Score="2" ViewCount="21805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a SR Suntour Rux S 130 mm fork and I don't know what pressure should I put into the left valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5iuYA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason I think this fork should have only 0 - 15 PSI pressure, but I don't know what source I have this from. Where can I go to learn the correct pressure for my fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt; as per the current answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://srsuntour-files.dbap.de/_public/tuningbase/downloadarea/explosions/Fork/Hydraulic_air_SF_instruction_sheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the owner's manual&lt;/a&gt; linked in the current answer two facts are stated. First is the pressure sheet which seems to regard any fork listed in the manual (my fork included):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MD2jo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second is the table with forks specifically, which takes things to a dramatic change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FwC1s.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I to understand that &lt;strong&gt;normally&lt;/strong&gt;, as per the first chart, the pressure should be around 110 PSI, but for my fork, it should be 15 PSI?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="1458" LastEditDate="2012-05-10T19:10:53.003" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T10:54:31.053" Title="Where can I find a fork pressure guide?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9363" CreationDate="2012-05-10T18:55:45.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://srsuntour-files.dbap.de/_public/tuningbase/downloadarea/explosions/Fork/Hydraulic_air_SF_instruction_sheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this is the owner's manual&lt;/a&gt; for your fork which has a chart on page 3.  Please, however, make sure this is the correct guide for your fork.  I am not familiar with this brand, so I cannot be certain, but it looks right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T18:55:45.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9377" CreationDate="2012-05-10T19:33:06.727" Score="6" ViewCount="7429" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I change into a low gear (i.e. onto a bigger cog) on my back cog all is fine. However, when I later change up again the chain sticks on the larger cog. I commute about 10 miles a day and this has been happening now for about 3 days. It usually rectifies itself after a period of frantic pedalling. I'm riding a fairly old (2004ish) Specialized Rock Hopper (in good nick) with road tyres.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My thoughts are that this is being caused by either the gear cable sticking somewhere or by a problem in the derailleur.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any tips on how to diagnose where the problem lies? I guess I could just get a new cable and see if this fixes it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4061" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T06:27:44.350" Title="Why does my bike stick in low gears?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9365" CreationDate="2012-05-10T21:08:10.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you just need to get your rear derailleur adjusted. Any local bike shop should be able to adjust this fairly quickly. They will also be able to determine if you need the cable replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T21:08:10.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9363" CreationDate="2012-05-10T21:19:30.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual posted refers to Air forks AND Coil forks. As for this page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/index.php?screen=sh.detail&amp;amp;tnid=135&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/index.php?screen=sh.detail&amp;amp;tnid=135&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;your fork is Coil Spring / Hydraulic Open Bath with Air Pressure preload adjuster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table present at the page 3 of the mentioned manual refers specifically to Travel-Adjustment-equipped suspensions, which doesn't seem to be your case. Anyway, the pressure recommended for the Air Preload system, in this table, ranges from 15 PSI to 43 PSI (27 psi for your weight, as I understood from your question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table at page 6 of the manual refers to adjusting the SAG (how much the fork sinks under rider's weight while in normal riding position) via air pressure, suggesting an initial value of 15 PSI, but implying that rider's preference should determine the ideal setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These forks which mix open bath, coil spring and air-pressure preload adjustment on the same side of the fork (I have a similar one, a 2004 Marzocchi Drop-Off- II, which I run with 0 PSI otherwise it is too stiff for my taste) tend to need relatively small pressures, since the pressure is only a fine-tuning. That is different from a air-only-spring, where you need a much higher pressure since it is air alone that conteracts rider's weight and bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, it is interesting to know the ideal pressure RANGE (10 PSI is much different than 110...), but once this is determine, trial and error and experimentation is the definitive way to know what's the ideal pressure for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T21:19:30.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4687" CreationDate="2012-05-10T22:11:14.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Team NetApp has an article about their Bike sponsor Simplon for Giro d'Italia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The best german professional road race team Team NetApp rides&#xA;  race-ready prototypes of SIMPLON’s new aero-roadbike NEXIO during the&#xA;  Giro d’Italia. Conceptually the NEXIO combines the best of both worlds&#xA;  in the present professional bike yard of the team. It shares top class&#xA;  aerodynamics of SIMPLON’s MR.T time trail machine as welll as&#xA;  exceptional lightness and stiffness of the more traditionally shaped&#xA;  PAVO roadbike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teamnetapp.com/en/news/detailview/news/team-netapp-rides-simplons-new-nexio-aero-roadbike-at-the-giro-ditalia-2012/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.teamnetapp.com/en/news/detailview/news/team-netapp-rides-simplons-new-nexio-aero-roadbike-at-the-giro-ditalia-2012/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T22:11:14.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-10T22:13:36.723" Score="8" ViewCount="2006" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I fish around in my shed for a repair kit and pull out a pair of patches which have been sat around for a while (a year?) I find the patches are stiff (even though they're still in their foil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I proceed with the repair but suspect it isn't as sound as it would have been with a freshly purchased malleable patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tonight, while doing a repair, I actually looked at the patch and the kit box to see if there is a &lt;strong&gt;Best Before&lt;/strong&gt; date (there isn't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what is the useful shelf life of an unused patch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1033" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T00:30:13.153" Title="Unused puncture repair patch - what's its useful shelf life?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9374" CreationDate="2012-05-10T22:35:02.780" Score="6" ViewCount="7341" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year I started biking again. My current ride is a quite good &quot;cross&quot; bike weighing a bit more than 10kg  (~22lb, I didn't weigh it). Currently I'm doing around 200km (~120 mi) per week, mostly on roads. Now I'm wondering whether a road bike would be beneficial for day-trips or such. I live near the Alps in a hilly area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a notable benefit from the lower weight of a road bike? (I weigh 80kg, 175lb) Unless it's a really step difference or a I pay a lot for a very light bike I don't expect much benefit, but might I be wrong?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wonder how notable road bike tires might be, I'm expecting way less resistance. Any way to qualify that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A road bike handlebar has more ways it can be gripped, which might be comfortable on longer rides. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A road bike looks nicer :-p&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there more important factors I should consider? I'd certainly keep my current bike for times where I have to carry luggage or want to stay off roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T01:00:22.490" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T23:15:24.803" Title="Should I get a road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9370" CreationDate="2012-05-10T23:12:00.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are committed and serious about your biking, which sounds like you are if you already ride 120 a week, I think a road bike would have more pros than cons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep your other bike for the coffee shop and errands. I have a commuter hybrid bike that i dont mind locking up, getting groceries with, and such. I put on a chain guard and flat pedals and love the casual ride to the office. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T23:12:00.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5744" CreationDate="2012-05-10T23:15:30.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having had low end aluminum, mid grade steel, and now a Specialized roubaix SL3 full carbon, can say the full carbon is the reason they dont need suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Specialized Roubaix wins on the cobbles more often then not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon is smooth and really takes most small bumps to a manageable level. All at 16lbs. Where any suspension fork is going to be 2 pounds and have trouble being as stiff enough to mee a racers demands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T23:15:30.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9369" CreationDate="2012-05-11T00:30:13.153" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends very much on how the patches are stored. I have a box of strips of patches that lasted about 10 years before the patches became unusable. But that was a whole box, in a plastic bag, in a cold dark place (a box of bike stuff in the garage). On the shop counter that same box would probably age out within 3-12 months depending on how often it got direct sunlight. What matters is heat, how well sealed the container is, and light (probably in that order). I think you're doing the right thing by inspecting the patch and deciding whether to use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not too useful if you're really asking &quot;how often should I buy a new patch kit&quot;. In my experience at least two years, normally more like five. Again, I store my patches in a patch kit (plastic box), in a plastic bag with some tools, in my pannier. It's pretty cold and dark in there too. I find that the glue tube gets really gummy and useless before the patches wear out. But since I wear my tyres pretty much down to the canvas I go through a few patches most years, so that's not normally an issue. (I run the tyres until I get a puncture that seems to be attributable to tyre wear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T00:30:13.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9370" CreationDate="2012-05-11T02:36:25.743" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's all about having the right tool for the job. Road and touring bikes are designed for long rides on roads. In contrast, mountain bikes are designed to go off road, and hybrids are designed mostly for casual riding. If you're doing 200 km per week, you're serious enough about cycling to notice a serious difference when you switch to a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently made a similar switch. I was riding a mountain bike, which I used for commuting, off-road trails, and road rides. I eventually found that I was only spending about 10% of my riding off-road. I considered switching to thin slick tires, but it was obvious to me that I also needed more hand placement options, a more aggressive riding position, a higher maximum gear, and lighter weight. In other words, I needed a road bike. When I sold my mountain bike and got a road bike, I instantly noticed a 2 to 5 kph speed improvement for the same effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're considering switching from a cyclocross bike to a road bike, you should expect a less dramatic change, but if you feel like you're losing out from using the wrong tool for the job, you might as well try a road bike. You could at least rent one for a day and see how it feels. Alternatively, you could consider switching just the handlebars and tires on your current bike, since it sounds like you already have a light-weight frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T18:29:06.147" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T18:29:06.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9365" CreationDate="2012-05-11T03:05:17.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not scared of doing your own repairs, try adjusting the derailleur yourself. There are plenty of tutorials out there, but the gist is that you turn the cable tension &quot;knob&quot; a quarter turn at a time, until the gears change easily both up and down. If no adjustment works both for shifting up and shifting down, then a more serious repair may be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T03:05:17.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2012-05-11T06:02:32.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For odour reduction (and comfort!) wear &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/expertadvice/articles/underwear.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;natural fibres&lt;/a&gt;. Synthetic materials are particularly bad at making the worst of a good sweat. Of the natural fibres, cotton is probably the worst, while in my experience hemp is excellent at reducing smells (even though it seems to stay damp longer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, different synthetic fibres perform differently, but as I don't often wear them, I haven't noticed which are better or worse, and I can't find any good references about the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4064" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T06:02:32.910" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-11T06:02:32.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9365" CreationDate="2012-05-11T06:27:44.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is happening is that you have enough force in your hand to move the whole mechanism towards one direction overcoming the failure point, but the spring in the derailleur doesn't have the required force. As you pedal (and ride) vibration helps momentarily reducing friction and allowing the spring to pull back, so it finally shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common cause of this issue is rust between the cable and the cable housing. There are also a few other closely related: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirt can accumulate inside the cable housing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lubricant used on the cable (if any) gets clogged or dries up, also catching dirt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lining of the cable housing or inner of the housing itself has&#xA;degraded due to wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cable is deformed or frayed inside the housing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the previous are cable related and can be easily diagnosed by disassembling the cable, pulling it out of the housing and visually check the cable. It should look even, without rust and without any permanent sharp bends, i.e. if left hanging it should hang straight or barely and smoothly curved. Also you should be able to pull and push cable in and out of the housing wit almost zero effort (no &quot;perceptible&quot; friction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy way to fix is to replace the cable and the housing. If this is not an option you can clean the cable, try to unbend it, lubricate and reassembly. Frayed cable can be reused by removing the hole strand of wire up to the head of the cable. The cable can survive with one or two strands out. But all these are temporary remedies only, you will quickly observe the symptoms again, specially with frayed cable, chances are it will fray more. Very old cable or too rusted is better not to attempt any of these solutions as they wont last enough to be worthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember to clean the housing internally. This can be achieved pouring rust remover or fine oil inside the housing and hope it will get out by the other end dragging the dirt and debris out. This can be messy and time consuming.  If you can blow through it with an air compressor, it may help if the problem is just trapped dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then again, these are temporary solutions,as most of the time, the housing will be damaged on the inside, due to wear, and this causes rough spots that easily trap more dirt or simply cause friction, so the whole system wont perform as good as with simple brand new cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A badly installed cable can also be the cause. Check the hole travel of the cable looking for sharp turns, or the cable being pulled against parts of the frame or components or accessories where it is not supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the previous is verified and corrected as needed but the problem persists, the derailleur itself must be checked. Here the most common causes can be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much dirt trapped among derailleur's linkages&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The derailleur is badly bent or otherwise has lost its shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is rust in the pivots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weakened spring due to rust, deformation or excessive wear, or even misplaced spring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these can be diagnosed for sure with close and careful visual inspection under good light. Nevertheless to be sure you can disconnect the cable, remove the chain and carefully move the derailleur along its designed travel. You should feel clear resistance from the spring and the mechanism should quickly return on itself when you release it. If it presents lag in the return, re-check the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious solutions are clean the derailleur and lubricate it's pivots. In case of a misplaced spring, it can be relocated using long fine nose pliers, just be careful. If the spring is too damaged, maybe is better to change the derailleur or try to find a spare spring somewhere, if it's free, better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the derailleur is bend or otherwise deformed, you better get another one. Almost only steel ones can be rectified but it is rather difficult and time consuming, it's not worthy most of the time since steel derailleurs tend to be cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not forget to inspect and test the shifter lever. The easy way is to disconnect the cable from the derailleur and while gently pulling it outwards the housing, actuate the lever back and forth. The cable should move accordingly. If the shifter is the indexed type, the cable movement should be crisp and without lag. Generally, the lever just needs some lubrication. I do not recommend dis assembly of indexed shifter levers as many are rather complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you finish reassembling the system most sure you'll need to adjust derailleur properly. Sure you'll find lots of methods/tutorials in the cloud or in other questions posted on this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of the above help you diagnose the problem better take your bike to a local shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T06:27:44.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-11T09:27:47.467" Score="2" ViewCount="2835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know of any cheap ways to get a bicycle from Australia to Germany. So far, I have looked at UPS, TNT and other larger logistics companies. They all seem to be 500 AUD and above for a single bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am flying to Europe and could disassemble the bike and take the frame as oversized baggage. However then I am at my weight limit and I would still have to ship the 28&quot; wheels. I thought of packing a box and ship the small parts with AusPost. However the wheels would be slightly to large for their largest box size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any cheaper ways to ship a bike from Australia to Germany?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4067" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T18:00:24.140" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T19:36:05.543" Title="What is the cheapest way to send a bike from Australia to Germany?" Tags="&lt;germany&gt;&lt;australia&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9378" CreationDate="2012-05-11T09:39:13.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have already answered your own question, but I'll propose a few ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one, you will very probably need to disassemble the bike in any scenario, so you should get down to it asap. After you disassemble it, you'll at least know exactly what sizes and weights of parts you end up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for transporting it: have you tried looking for a last-minute two-way ticket to Germany and back? I don't know what prices you got there, but airlines here in Europe usually sell their last-minute tickets for a very low price (read $150). This would be your best bet imo. Get a ticket like that, take the disassembled bike and no other baggage. Transport the bike and travel back to Australia. Then, simply travel to Germany when the time comes, taking only your baggage :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is the safest, fastest and cheapest way to transport your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T09:39:13.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9378" CreationDate="2012-05-11T10:51:59.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check with the airline you are flying with. Airlines generally have a small surcharge for taking a bike along, since people frequently travel with sporting equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked into flying with a bike from Canada to France last year and it was only a $30 charge on the airline I was flying with (they even accepted tandems). I can't guarantee your airline will be as reasonable, but it's definitely worth looking into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T13:02:50.373" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T13:02:50.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9383" CreationDate="2012-05-11T15:57:23.410" Score="3" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to go on a bike trip from &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=chicago&amp;amp;daddr=Milwaukee,%20WI&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sll=41.975827,-88.275146&amp;amp;sspn=5.332689,8.602295&amp;amp;geocode=FWICfwIdGuDG-inty_TQPCwOiDEAwMAJrabgrw;Fba4kAIdVqfC-innR4tX1wIFiDGEe0G1IhlfRA&amp;amp;oq=milwaukee&amp;amp;dirflg=b&amp;amp;mra=ls&amp;amp;t=m&amp;amp;z=9&amp;amp;lci=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chicago to Milwaukee&lt;/a&gt; in the end of June. Is my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/urban_utility/allant/allant/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek Allant&lt;/a&gt;, a recreational bike, suitable for the trip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3904" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T18:00:18.523" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T16:22:59.447" Title="Is a recreational bike sufficient for a 10-hour bike trip?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9382" CreationDate="2012-05-11T16:39:08.330" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike is definitely fine for this trip. I've ridden further on a cheaper hybrid bike fully loaded, and I saw a few guys who rode the same distance on scavenged department store bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 10 hour trip, I would try to pack light. You should be able to fit everything in one pannier or a rack-top bag.  Make sure you have a few water bottles and food for the trip. If you plan to stop and eat, then you can carry a bit less.  Get some electrolytes too, either a Gatorade or electrolyte powders/pills for your bottles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you bring a decent toolkit enough to fix a flat, adjust your brakes, and include a small adjustable wrench, bottle of chain lube, and a spoke wrench (probably have this on your multi-tool if you've got one) just for good measure.  Zip ties are always handy for repairs and hacks on the road.  Don't forget a couple extra tubes, pump, and a patch kit. I wouldn't rely only c02 for a long trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for comfort on the bike, you will definitly want some padded shorts (and probably some chamois cream), some gloves, and eye protection.  A quality map as backup is nice in case your directions send you astray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got all that, then you should be fine.  Plan a couple stops to refill your water and restock on food if you're not familiar with the route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T16:39:08.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9391" CreationDate="2012-05-11T17:19:13.823" Score="4" ViewCount="5302" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been about 5 years or so since I did any amount of bicycle riding to speak of.  Recently, I picked up a mountain bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/revel.2.black.silver/9042/48921/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giant Revel 2&lt;/a&gt;) and started getting back into riding around some local roads on a semi-regular basis.  My goal is to work myself up to at least riding for one hour, three days a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there's a small problem with this.  It seems after about a half-hour on the bike, I begin to experience numbness in my genitals.  This usually clears up within a few minutes of standing, off of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some likely causes for this?  Are there particular adjustments or modifications I should make to the bicycle or my riding technique to avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1719" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-14T04:31:20.737" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:23:52.340" Title="Cure for numb nuts?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;men-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9384" CreationDate="2012-05-11T17:35:14.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to come to mind is poor bike fit.Second is are you wearing cycling shorts?If you bought the bike at a local shop see if they offer a fitting service.If they don't see if they will show you how to make some adjustments to the saddle height,forward-aft,and angle so you can experiment to see what makes improvements &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T17:35:14.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9382" CreationDate="2012-05-11T17:48:26.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks perfect, if the bike fits.  You won't set any speed records, but it's probably about as comfortable for the trip as you could hope for, and certainly rugged enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several different lists around of what to bring on a trip.  Depends in part on whether you'll have any &quot;support&quot; or not, but basically, in that part of the country, with a cellphone and money you're equipped for any problem.  (Though I'd recommend some rain gear, assorted foodstuffs, including some salty and some not, pump and patch kit, and as many tools as you feel competent to use.)  And, of course, plenty of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a break about every 15-20 miles to stretch your legs and let your rear end restore the blood flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Looks like a fun trip!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T17:48:26.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9313" CreationDate="2012-05-11T18:01:39.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone mentioned a GPS system, my buddy and I go for street rides, the longest one so far 43 kilometers. He uses an app for his iPhone called &quot;Runkeeper&quot;. It tracks your speed and distance, it even shows you areas that you might have ridden faster and you can post your map online if you like. The one thing to keep in mind if you are using a GPS app on a smartphone, you might need an additional external battery pack as the GPS uses a lot of battery power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one for the iPhone is called a &quot;juicy pack&quot; I believe, and the iPhone can switch automatically between the two batteries when the external one runs out of power. This &quot;juicy pack&quot; fits on the outside of the phone like an external case and is designed for the phone, it works great. I just thought I might share that, hopefully it might help out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely keep up with the riding, I used to be a trial rider and nothing else. When I first started riding longer distances on the road, it was brutal, but as I kept going the previous rides that seemed so long, started to feel shorter and easier every time. In addition to that I am really enjoying the fun of getting out and just riding and the GPS helps you keep track of your progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, and good riding &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4070" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T18:01:39.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-11T20:46:11.757" Score="3" ViewCount="1781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at the Yuba Mundo with 2 Bobike Junior seats to carry my 4 and 6 year old children.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, does anybody know if those seats will mount on a Mundo?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, I'm open to all other recommendations, but would like to keep the cost under $2k, so I think that rules out the WorkCycles Fr8 and any bakfiets.  (I've got a Mundo dealer here in Chicago but would consider having a bike shipped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4072" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T16:10:33.630" Title="I'm looking for options for carrying 2 children on the back" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9384" CreationDate="2012-05-11T21:10:00.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're just getting back into riding after a long break, this is normal. It'll still happen for a while - especially on longer and longer rides as you build up your endurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be some fit issues there, but if you get a saddle with a cutout and your fit looks good (and there's no sharp pain) then you may just need to build up your tolerance a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling shorts definitely help this, as do not overly padded seats. You want your seat to have minimal padding and let your chamois do the padding for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if you're mashing your pedals instead of spinning you'll most likely experience unnecessary numbness from all the bouncing in the saddle. If you find yourself bouncing, slow down and concentrate on spinning fluidly. There are a lot of threads here on how to improve spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastEditorUserId="3931" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T21:24:09.237" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T21:24:09.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9370" CreationDate="2012-05-11T21:36:47.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purely anecdotally...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in 1998, a friend and I did an organized 45 mile charity ride. My friend was on a road bike and I was riding a mountain bike (with slicks). Thing is, I could not keep up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within a week, I owned a &quot;road bike&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go faster, and longer, get a road bike. If not, stay with your current bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; get a road bike or not? That's hard to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wdy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T23:15:24.803" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T23:15:24.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9384" CreationDate="2012-05-11T22:13:24.210" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perineal compression? - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/346680-bicycle-seat-nerve-damage/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.livestrong.com/article/346680-bicycle-seat-nerve-damage/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you need to change your saddle and/or your &lt;em&gt;bike fit&lt;/em&gt; needs modification. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very valuable information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This usually clears up within a few minutes of standing, off of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very clearly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; telling you that either the bike fit or the saddle is entirely wrong. My suggestion? Tweak your bike fit; then, seriously consider a new saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is compression of the perineum which reduces blood flow. Here's some light reading: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.medicinenet.com/script/main/art.asp?articlekey=84072&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.medicinenet.com/script/main/art.asp?articlekey=84072&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;em&gt;Andy Pruitt's Complete Medical Guide for Cyclists&lt;/em&gt; the issue is actually more common with recreational cyclists and not racers so much. Apparently, racers tend to be lighter and so aren't supporting so much weight on soft tissue. And also, tend to lift their hips off of the saddle frequently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Andy Pruitt's key points for solving the problem are making sure that one has an appropriate saddle and especially good bike fit. Generally he recommends that the saddle is at the correct height and usually horizontal. However, for some individuals a slight downward tilt is optimal. An upward tilt is bad news for the perineum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;. wdy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T20:02:23.390" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:02:23.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9388" CreationDate="2012-05-12T07:02:58.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mundo is a great Cargo bike. The Bobike Junior seat &lt;em&gt;base&lt;/em&gt; will fit on the rack without issues, but you may need to be creative in attaching the footrest portion, as you will not have the Bobike designed rack to work from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the price you are looking, I'd say this is a great option. Shipping a bike is likely to push it well above that price, so I'd stay local.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-12T07:02:58.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9388" CreationDate="2012-05-12T13:38:26.243" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaATt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;moederfiets - 2 kids on the back!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you'd be interested in a moederfiets (dutch for &quot;mother's bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This page appears to be selling them:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tmannetje.nl/index.htm?errors/404.htm~mainFrame&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.tmannetje.nl/index.htm?errors/404.htm~mainFrame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-05-12T13:38:26.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-12T15:30:14.153" Score="4" ViewCount="2591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told by my bike shop that the bike I have can only mount a child seat at the seatpost. My son is 2 and I need a safe child seat for him. I have been having great difficulty finding one that mounts at the seat post online and I am reading that its not the safest if not mounted on the back as well. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4075" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-05-12T17:17:55.157" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T13:01:56.510" Title="Safe child seat attachment" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;children&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9394" CreationDate="2012-05-12T17:11:52.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The conclusions you've drawn from your research are correct. There are racks that are specifically rated for child seats, and they attach to the bike's frame into a pair of rack stays near the seatpost as well as near the rear axle. Any rack rated for touring or hauling heavy loads reliably will use these attachment points at minimum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A child seat should be mounted on a rack that attaches firmly to the frame of the bike - which usually &lt;em&gt;includes&lt;/em&gt; the seat stays near the seatpost. There &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; racks that attach onto the seatpost themselves, but these are lightweight racks, generally meant for bikes that need a rack only occasionally, or for road bikes without rack braze-ons; such &quot;seatpost racks&quot; are designed for easy removal and attachment, and are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; designed to hold more than the weight of a daypack. Mounting a child seat on one of these would be horribly dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sincerely hope that you've misunderstood your shop. Attaching a child seat to a seatpost rack would probably break the rack and then harm the child. I suggest avoiding any shop that gave this advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I find it difficult to imagine that even a marginally competent LBS employee would recommend this. Is it possible that what the shop said was to get a rack that attached to the frame near the seatpost, &lt;em&gt;as well as&lt;/em&gt; near the rear axle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does your bike have attachment points in these locations? from your question, I'm guessing it doesn't, and I'd seriously reconsider and use a trailer instead of a child seat with your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-05-12T17:18:35.407" LastActivityDate="2012-05-12T17:18:35.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2012-05-12T23:54:50.023" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried &quot;Get there by bike&quot;?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/get-there-by-bike-interactive/id457288250?mt=8&quot;&gt;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/get-there-by-bike-interactive/id457288250?mt=8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The few times i tried it i had good results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative, but i have not used yet. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikemapsapp.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.bikemapsapp.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-12T23:54:50.023" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9394" CreationDate="2012-05-13T04:48:51.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also racks, (good quality, safe racks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.britax-roemer.com/child-bike-seats/overview-child-bike-seats/jockey-comfort&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) which only attach to the seat tube.  NOT the seat post, but the seat tube on the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are strong, rated to 45kg, and fit most bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T04:48:51.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2012-05-13T07:07:58.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tomtom for me.  A little expensive but I like having built-in maps so that the mapping works when there is no phone reception.  The voice directions are also good enough not to need looking at the phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1127" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T07:07:58.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9399" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-05-13T13:09:51.527" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-05-13T13:09:51.527" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T13:09:51.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9400" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-05-13T13:09:51.527" Score="0" Body="Questions about bikes for men, clothing, and any other issues specific to men." OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-05-13T17:46:02.493" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T17:46:02.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9427" CreationDate="2012-05-13T13:29:38.203" Score="0" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that San Marco Regale instead of having cutout implemented a relief zone (see: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/saddles/product/review-selle-san-marco-regale-racing-team-44465&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Regale review&lt;/a&gt;). So visually it is like non-cutout saddle, however &lt;em&gt;something-which-works-like-a-cutout&lt;/em&gt; is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find a confirmation, that San Marco Concor (non-cutout version) also has such feature, from  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmulxkUyq3c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;technical presentation&lt;/a&gt; it is obvious there is some kind of &quot;pocket&quot; (for more foam, or for different kind of foam) exactly where the cutout comes in cutout (arrowhead) version. However what it is for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone who had such saddle in hand (personally) could confirm or deny this? I.e. &lt;strong&gt;the question is&lt;/strong&gt; -- does non-cutout (non-arrowhead) version of Concor have some kind of pocket to work as some kind of cutout (relief spot)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Usually the pocket is used as term to describe curved saddle --- but NOT here, here I use it in sense of a built-in channel, or hidden cutout.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T22:02:51.807" Title="San Marco Concor -- is there a &quot;pocket&quot; in non-cutout version?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9408" CreationDate="2012-05-13T19:54:50.343" Score="5" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/images/reviewfinder/0700powerlink.jpg&quot;&gt;Power-Link&lt;/a&gt; which i intended to use in emergencies (when the chain breaks and i'm far from home). Used it once, worked pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now i wonder, what if i use it permanently with my chain? My idea is that it might be convenient to quickly remove the chain, stuff it into a bowl of acetone/oil/whatever, and easily install it back onto the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But will the Power-Link wear out quickly (e.g. quicker than the other &quot;links&quot; of the chain)? I am not sure whether it was intended to be used all the time or just for emergencies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T01:39:58.250" Title="Is the Power-Link designed for routine usage?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9402" CreationDate="2012-05-13T22:39:34.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's intended for permanent use -- it's what SRAM provides for permanently joining their chains.  I've got several thousand miles on them, with no difficulties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T22:39:34.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9384" CreationDate="2012-05-13T23:02:53.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have suggested, bike fit, padded shorts, anatomical saddle, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to bike fit, consider the tilt of the saddle: try tilting the nose of the saddle down.  If it's above level, or even level, you'll exacerbate nerve compression with the small surface area of the nose.  Don't tilt it too far down or as you slip forward you'll constantly be pushing yourself backward on the saddle.  Further, examine the position of the saddle relative to the BB.  If the saddle is too far back, you'll be sitting on the nose - try moving the saddle forward such that your bum is resting on the wider section of the saddle.  Note that saddle position and tilt can affect the saddle height. So write down your saddle height before messing around and readjust afterward if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider your body position.  Are you resting your upper body on your handle bars, or are you supporting it with your core?  This will affect hip rotation.  The former causes you to roll your hips forward putting more pressure on your perineum.  The latter will rotate your hips back relieving pressure on your perineum and resting more on your ischium (I think that's the bone you'd be sitting on.)  You can work on your position by keeping your elbows rotated down, relieving weight from your hands, making a conscious effort to use your core, and a conscious effort to feel the effect of hips rotated forward and backward (as far as I can tell, rotating your hips back is done more with your lower abs, similar to thrusting your pelvis forward.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this considered, I still get numbness.  I compete, I ride a bazillion km/year, I've got padded shorts and an anatomical saddle.  Whatever.  Likely because I don't support my upper body with my core and roll my hips forward.  It's an aggressive position that I like, so I mitigate the issue by occasionally standing - if I'm on flats I switch to a high gear and turn over a low cadence, or I'll just rest my thigh on my saddle and coast (I do this a lot riding in traffic approaching red lights and stop signs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3841" LastEditorUserId="3841" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T18:09:14.353" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:09:14.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9407" CreationDate="2012-05-13T23:31:02.120" Score="4" ViewCount="1487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cold. A clogged head, congested sinuses and a sore throat, accompanied by a cough. It's been around for about a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've stayed off the bike because I haven't really felt well enough to head out in the cold weather we've had this past week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I feel like I'm starting to recover, and I'm itching to get back on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: At what stage do you get back on the bike? Does riding slow the recovery process (I've heard that the immune system can be suppressed by exercise)? Should I have just kept riding right through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="7876" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T10:58:52.970" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T10:58:52.970" Title="When should I start cycling again after a cold?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9406" CreationDate="2012-05-14T01:27:15.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've generally found that moderate exercise helps recover from a cold (once you've established a bit of distance from death's door), but overdoing it can set you back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be doubly sure to maintain hydration, and cut back your workout in both intensity and duration.  Ie, take it easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-05-14T11:51:11.580" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T11:51:11.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9402" CreationDate="2012-05-14T01:39:58.250" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several versions of SRAMs power links. The original versions were intended for reuse, and you would have no problem using them in that manner. If you have an 8 or 9 speed bike, you've got one of the original designs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a ten speed SRAM drivetrain, then you need to look at the link and the model of the chain. SRAMs newest power links for 10 speed are not designed to be used more than once. They are sold in a 4 pack so that you have replacements to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gold power link you've pictured is either 9 speed, or one of the first 10 speed links, which is reusable. If yours is black, you have one of the newer, non reusable variety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chain is a PC-1071, PC-1091 or 1091r, this is the links it comes with, and while you can remove them, they need to be replaced with a fresh link each time you do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T01:39:58.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9411" CreationDate="2012-05-14T04:01:44.197" Score="20" ViewCount="13093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried avoiding riding during the rain for years because I didn't want to hurt my bike.  But, tomorrow I really want to ride, rain (most likely) or shine.  What should I do after the ride to ensure my bike remains in good shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2528" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T20:26:09.077" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T20:26:09.077" Title="Post Rain Ride Wipedown" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9410" CreationDate="2012-05-14T04:50:10.983" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your title answers your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the ride, wipe down the bike so that there is no excess moisture. Make sure that the bike is stored indoors, in a dry, warm environment,  so that any remaining moisture can evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a steel frame, consider using a frame preparation like Frame Saver, if you're going to ride in the rain regularly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last, make sure you do you regular maintenance. Open up all the bearing areas (hubs, headset, and bottom bracket) and clean and grease them regularly. Grease is protection from water and corrosion as much as it is a lubricant, so this is important to keep it running smoothly, as well as protect from weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T04:50:10.983" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3570" CreationDate="2012-05-14T07:50:18.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure what the intent behind the question is here, but I have tried vegetable oil, and it's not great. It doesn't smell enough to concern you, but it gets gummy pretty quickly, and picks up dirt. It might be alright if you cleaned and re-applied really regularly (like every 3-4 days?), but I was too lazy to bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons I wanted to try vege oil were basically environmental, and because I don't want to use products produced by the petroleum industry. Ok, and perhaps a little symbolism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, a quick web search for &quot;environmental bike lubricant&quot; reveals &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-oil.net/environment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.green-oil.net/environment.html&lt;/a&gt;, which looks promising (long-chain polymers extracted from plant oil), and seems to have decent reviews. I haven't tried it yet, but will see if I can get some and try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4064" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T07:50:18.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9410" CreationDate="2012-05-14T11:11:57.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you do with your car when it gets wet in the rain?  The only thing you really need to worry about is the seat, and that's primarily because riding on a wet seat is unpleasant.  (A shower cap is a handy thing to have to keep the seat dry.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re the bearings, the only bearing that's apt to get wet is the bottom bracket, which is a &quot;sealed&quot; cartridge on most mid-grade modern bikes.  Opening up that area and greasing the outside of the cartridge and the inside of the housing will help prevent rust there.  Otherwise, repacking bearings every 10K miles or so is sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to clean the chain a little more often if you ride in wet weather, but that's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T11:11:57.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9337" CreationDate="2012-05-14T13:00:27.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;in my experience bolt on rear wheels with horizontal drop outs / single speeds actually perform better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T13:00:27.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9308" CreationDate="2012-05-14T13:10:46.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wider wheel = more traction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traction is important for torque and braking. Torque is driven through back-wheel and braking on both, and braking too much in the front relative to the back can result in the rider flipping over the handle-bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, put the wheel where it matters most, i.e. the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited in agreement with comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4082" LastEditorUserId="4082" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T09:44:20.277" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T09:44:20.277" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9428" CreationDate="2012-05-14T13:21:02.143" Score="1" ViewCount="8809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was overhauling a coaster hub the other day. The snapring was recessesed and no screwdriver in my arsenal was small enough to remove the piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/coaster-hub-overhaul-pedal-brake-hub&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park&lt;/a&gt; recommends using a small screwdriver to remove the ring:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ucwvd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;snapring removal machine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I resorted to digging it out with the small blade on my Swiss army knife. I know this is stupid for several reasons; that's why I'm asking if there's a better way. Is there some kind of weird pliers or something that's designed to make snapring removal a snap? Or is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2019-05-14T14:58:01.837" Title="Is there a tool (or preferred method) for removing the snapring that holds the cog on a coaster brake hub?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9431" CreationDate="2012-05-14T14:23:31.110" Score="3" ViewCount="3405" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am I correct is saying that for all major pedal systems (SPD, SPD-SL, Look, Speedplay, CB Eggbeaters) that if a pedal has more float, then it will take more rotation to release your foot from the pedal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My particular interest in this question stems from ACL issues where rotation is not ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any info on the Speedplay Light Action pedals? The claim to have 15 degrees of float and yet require less twisting to release. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4071" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T05:55:55.690" Title="Pedal float &amp; release" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9406" CreationDate="2012-05-14T15:52:36.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb I heard, and that I've always used, is that I can ride (run, play soccer, whatever) if the problem is just in my head (nose, sinus, throat) but as soon as it migrates south into my chest I quit until the chest is clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3161" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T15:52:36.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9418" CreationDate="2012-05-14T16:25:31.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run Speedplay Zeros and the amount of float is adjustable up to 15 degrees, or no float as well. The amount of force to twist out of them is hard to describe, but you do need to twist with some force from your leg to get out. You are not able to click out until you rotate to the end of the float. For me on my adjustable Zero's I like the float and must rotate to 12-15 degrees before I feel the resistance and must apply more force to unclick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my recommendation, a couple riding buddies new to clipless pedals got the Light Action and they say they are easy to get in and out of. They only have 15 degrees of float, they are not adjustable like the Zero's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do like having the float so my foot can rotate some and not be locked into one position, forcing my knee to track the same motion for every pedal stroke, with the float, I am able to rotate a bit and even the slight angle difference can relieve some pain. I've had ITB issues, but not anything as bad as an ACL tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably take your bike into a local bike shop to try out a couple pedals on your bike on a stationary trainer in the store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T16:25:31.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-14T17:31:08.000" Score="1" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a boardman road bike and after 5 weeks as soon as you put effort into peddaling I am getting a squeaking noise from the bottom bracket, I took it back to halfords and they said it needs greasing every so often, is this an easy job to do and should I be doing at after only 5 weeks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4086" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T11:37:27.457" Title="Boardman road bike bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2012-05-14T19:03:36.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read through all the answers here, but if I could go back in time and tell myself one thing, it would be: &quot;Be prepared for everything.&quot;  I now pack my road bike with enough of everything to last me if I had to camp out for the night (water, protein bars) plus my rain gear, a tarp, and all of the equipment I need to do minor repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of this also includes what I saw in a prior answer: &quot;Know your route&quot;.  I moved to a new office building earlier this year and it totally changed my route, so I walked it first (took me 3 hours) before I rode it.  That helped me get a sense of the traffic and things to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4085" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T19:03:36.467" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-14T19:03:36.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2012-05-14T19:16:42.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not hard to commute to work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's really easy to overdress.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T19:16:42.113" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-14T19:16:42.113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9425" CreationDate="2012-05-14T20:58:56.560" Score="0" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd love to know what it is that is pictured below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2i5xh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Detail shot from car driver&amp;#39;s seat&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiTuy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Detail shot from kitchen table&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth driving 320 km to pick it up. (Makes no sense.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to win a bet that I can find out what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4087" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T21:06:47.693" Title="What is this -- seems to be bike-related?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9424" CreationDate="2012-05-14T21:06:47.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like an adjustable quill stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/TAQ-33-ADJUSTABLE-ALUMINUM-STEM-ST3/dp/B001DGGVQ2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.co.uk/TAQ-33-ADJUSTABLE-ALUMINUM-STEM-ST3/dp/B001DGGVQ2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;oh, and not worth driving that far to get one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T21:06:47.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9418" CreationDate="2012-05-14T21:33:50.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure how bad your ACL issues are...I've got a rebuilt ACL and a friend of mine has a torn ACL that he has yet to get repaired. Both of us run either Look style or Shimano SPD-SL style pedals/cleats with no issues clipping or unclipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all clipless pedals will have some amount of float. Some aren't adjustable, so the amount is limited to the pedal and/or cleat combination you employ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that people with knee issues tend to run speedplays due to the extra amount of give they provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T21:33:50.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9401" CreationDate="2012-05-14T22:02:51.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sellesanmarco.it/en/Collezione/Saddles/39/Regale%20Carbon%20FX.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;REGALe Carbon FX information page&lt;/a&gt; has an &quot;i&quot; button, that when clicked, loads a list of features. This includes &quot;COREZONE&quot;, which is the feature referred to in the review you linked to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sellesanmarco.it/en/Collezione/Saddles/239/Concor%20Racing%20Team.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Concor Carbon FX information page&lt;/a&gt;, I clicked on the &quot;i&quot; button but did not see &quot;COREZONE&quot; listed for any of them. If the feature isn't specifically listed, I think it's safe to assume that the relief zone is not there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked a few different Concor models and didn't see &quot;COREZONE&quot; listed for any of them, but I didn't go through the entire list. If you're interested in a specific model, click the &quot;i&quot; button on its specific page to see if it's included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T22:02:51.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9417" CreationDate="2012-05-14T22:11:20.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ends of the ring often taper, sometimes only one end does. That makes it slightly easier to get a screwdriver under the ring. But doing that often just pushes the ring around. Better to use a pair of pliers to spread the end, then a screwdriver to lift it. It will usually pop off, but the plier hand can usually block it from flying across the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've commonly used the circlip pliers that force something open. They're reasonably well designed for the task although grinding the outer surfaces flat improves things. Even so, I often find that the job really requires three hands - for the pliers, a screwdriver and to catch the ring. Plus another to hold the wheel if you don't have an axle vise. AFAIK there is not easy way to do it - I've seen a number of mechanics who work on these a lot and all of them use either pliers or a screwdriver or both. Practice seems to make it faster rather than easier - they've all ended up chasing the ring around the cog at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a spare pair of those pliers or work in a bike shop I think you're better off buying a proper small screwdriver than the pliers, because small screwdrivers have more uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ThrX6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two sets of circlip pliers, one push open, on push closed&quot;&gt;&#xA;Note that the bottom right pair open the jaws when you squeeze the handle. This is what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T22:11:20.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2648" CreationDate="2012-05-14T23:58:50.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you ride a motorcycle or bicycle you have your neck in a chin up posture. When most people walk which is most of the time or sit and work at a desk (the rest of the time),  either walking or sitting you are in a chin down posture.  Try riding in a chin down using the top of your eyes or focusing up a little with your chin down.  I learned this riding a motorcycle cross country 7-8 hours a day for 2 weeks. Your body will learn over time that your neck muscles can re-train themselves.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't try going (if your a guy) to Home Depot for 2 hours and walking around looking up and not have a sore neck.  Some people with bad posture look at their feet when walking, they will suffer when riding the most!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just my 2 cents.&#xA;Pm  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4089" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T23:58:50.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9421" CreationDate="2012-05-15T01:51:33.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should not require greasing after only 5 weeks, unless it was not done originally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A noise of that type can be caused by basically 4 things in the Bottom Bracket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose or worn bearings - in this case unlikely because of the age of the BB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose or dry BB cups &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose crank bolts or crank arms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry chain - not likely, given the stated fix by your shop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options 2 or 3 are likely given the fix described. Both would be repaired by removing, greasing and retorquing the BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause after such a short time is that they were left loose or dry during assembly, and that the shop or mechanic was talking CYA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that is difficult to determine from several thousand miles away. You can be confident that the maintenance does not need to be performed every few weeks. Your twice yearly tune up should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T11:37:27.457" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T11:37:27.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9418" CreationDate="2012-05-15T02:34:13.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no quick fix pedal for knee issues. Speedplay's non-centering wide float allows the least amount of outside force working on your knee while clipped in but requires more rotation and some force to exit the pedal regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ACL issue may be more harmed by the extra rotation and the angle at which release force is required, than it is helped by the non centering, wide float. I've listed several pedals and the float options and release tensions below. (Feel free to add others, if anybody has details. I will as I find them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Float&quot; is defined as the degree of movement offered by the cleat&#xA;  within the pedal before release begins. This can be highly important&#xA;  to prevent damage to knees, as most peoples' legs do not remain in a&#xA;  single plane as they pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keo Easy/Max/Carbon System:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Offers Zero(black cleat), 4.5 degree(grey cleat), and nine degree(red cleat) float, adjustable only by cleat replacement. No release tension adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keo Blade system:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Offers Zero(black cleat), 4.5 degree(grey cleat), and nine degree(red cleat) float, adjustable only by cleat replacement. Release tension is either 12Nm or 16Nm. Stock is 12Nm, and adjustment requires changing the carbon leaf spring in the pedal. (Specific tools required.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look Delta:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Offers Zero(black cleat) and nine degree(red cleat) float, adjustable only by cleat replacement. Pedal design obsoleted but still common on older bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shimano:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shimano SPD-SL (Current Shimano road pedals):&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Offered in Yellow/Black 6 degree float or red/black zero float. All SPD-SL pedals from Tiagra level to Dura Ace offer adjustable release tension, from 1Nm to between 12Nm and 16Nm depending on pedal component level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speedplay:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speedplay pedals are unique in that they do not rely on spring tension for cleat retention in the pedal. There is a spring, but is only active during pedal entry and release. This means there is no &quot;centering&quot; action on the pedal. This is the reason that they are often offered to, and can have some benefit for persons with knee trouble. They do require more rotation to reach the point of engaging the release spring, and the release requires some force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Zero:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Float adjustable on cleat from zero to fifteen degrees. Release tension approximately 8Nm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Light Action:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Fifteen degrees non-centering float. No adjustment possible. Release tension approximately 6Nm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;X-Series:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Fifteen degrees non-centering float. No adjustment possible. Release tension approximately 10Nm. Obsolete, replaced by light action pedal. Cleats still available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this is helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T18:50:06.137" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:50:06.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-15T04:34:05.483" Score="3" ViewCount="11487" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which derailleur should I use with a Shimano 7 speed freewheel 14-34T megarange in order to prevent the derailleur from rubbing the cassette in 2nd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4090" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T12:05:38.780" Title="Which derailleur should I use with a Shimano 7 speed freewheel 14-34T megarange?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-15T06:09:30.743" Score="11" ViewCount="13183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a Fuji ACR 2.0 road bike from a guy who bought it three months back but didn't ride it at all. I brought it home and found that it is making a clicking sound when I pedal. The sound is coming from the bottom bracket. Please check the video for more details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/H87c2XzPjJk?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I worry much about it? I'm from Bangladesh and there isn't any specialized shop where I can take it to be inspected. I have to do the fix myself. So before I jump in to open up the bottom bracket, I wanted to get advice whether I should ignore it and ride it for few days hoping that noise will go away...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video including full drive train:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/5FFFdck4Pbs?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3204" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T20:37:31.957" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T14:15:01.430" Title="Annoying clicking sound from the bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;clicking&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="17" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9432" CreationDate="2012-05-15T06:59:26.390" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-acera-rd-m360-megarange-smart-cage-8-speed-rear-derailleur-silver-prod18893/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This one.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFdIn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;8 speed mega range&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclesonline.com.au/shimano-7-speed-rear-derailleur-tx75/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. Or any 7 or 8 speed Mega Range rear derailleur from Shimano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQNkL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;7 speed Mega range&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This issue can also be an adjustment of the B tension screw on your existing derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sznq9.png&quot; alt=&quot;B tension Screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjSGm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;B tension adjustment gap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T07:55:44.357" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T07:55:44.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9456" CreationDate="2012-05-15T11:57:01.097" Score="0" ViewCount="2857" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I attach maps (or any routing tool) to the handlebars of one of the Boris Bikes (i.e. the 'rental' bikes in the Barclay's Bike Hire Scheme) in London? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried cobbling something together:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/dumbledad/5064637169&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4126/5064637169_f99edf3438_n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Heath Robinson Boris Bike iPhone mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I kept dropping my smart-phone (it nearly got run over by a taxi!) and to be honest the screen's too tricky to follow on busy London streets. I've ended up just using a hiking map holder and the print-out of the suggested route from &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclejourneyplanner.tfl.gov.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their cycle journey planner&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/dumbledad/6811089887&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7020/6811089887_e99abd16d5_n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cycling a Boris Bike from Kings Cross to the RCA through Hyde Park&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but this feels a tad eccentric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the first of those pictures the handlebars are not an easy shape or cross-section to mount to. They are based on the Bixi cycle rental system that operates in Montreal and other Canadian cities, if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3704" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.207" LastActivityDate="2019-06-05T06:48:03.580" Title="How to attach maps, etc to handlebars of a Boris Bike? (London bike hire scheme)" Tags="&lt;maps&gt;&lt;london&gt;&lt;sharing-scheme&gt;&lt;navigation&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9439" CreationDate="2012-05-15T17:04:50.507" Score="0" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;What tire size will fit a Schwala Xero 220 rim?  Can it take any 700C tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having trouble figuring out what size tires could possibly fit this rim: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.formulahubs.com/en/xero/?method=detail&amp;amp;aid=17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.formulahubs.com/en/xero/?method=detail&amp;amp;aid=17&lt;/a&gt;.  The closest I see is this rim size: 700C*20*19MM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:36:03.173" Title="Tire Size For Schawla 220" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9437" CreationDate="2012-05-15T18:33:47.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to use ANY 700C tire, but you should be able to use anything between 700Cx19 to 700Cx25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Browns site has a ton of information on tire sizing. In general he recommends 1.45 to 2.0 times the inner rim width.  In your case this appears to be 13mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4071" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:33:47.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9437" CreationDate="2012-05-15T18:36:03.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's a standard 622 aka &quot;700C&quot; rim that can fit any 700C tire. However, you'll want to also pay attention to the width of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the way they say &quot;622-13 700C*20*19MM&quot; it should mean that the rim bead seat width is 13mm, but the extra &quot;20*19mm&quot; stuff makes things seem a little unclear to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely that it's 13mm wide and the &quot;20*19MM&quot; is intended to be the tire width they expect you to mount on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, 20 and 19mm width 700c tires are somewhat rare. 23mm and 25mm are much more common and are sizes that should work well on a 13mm width rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;, if the rim is 13mm wide, you'll want a 18-25mm wide tire. If it's 19mm wide, you'll want a 28-44mm wide tire. If you're not sure, 25-28mm is a safe in-between range that should fit either width ok and will still fit within the brake and other clearances of bikes with narrow clearances (typical road, track, racing, &quot;go fast&quot; bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring the bead seat width accurately is hard without the right tools, but if you hold up a ruler or measuring tape to the rim and measure the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; width, it should be easy to tell 13mm (1/2 inch) from 19mm (3/4 inch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:36:03.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9410" CreationDate="2012-05-15T18:39:55.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an occasional rain ride, the key (as others have noted) is to clean and dry the bike afterwards. Pay some attention to the drive train as the grit that accompanies riding in the rain can cause a sandpaper action quickly ruining your chain and causing damage throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride in the rain often:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One place where I differ from others is I do NOT recommend any of the &quot;waxy&quot; lubricants. These are marketed for the wet and cruddy conditions but it's exactly these conditions that make the waxy lubes evil. They have a propensity to hold on to grit and cleaning grit off a drive train that is well lubed with them is an undertaking. I'd recommend using a very light oil and get in the habit of a quick application after every rain ride and/or every hundred miles or so (go more by look rather than mileage). The lighter oils will actually help clean the drive train as you relube, wipe off excess oil along with some dirt and you are ready to ride again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:39:55.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9384" CreationDate="2012-05-15T20:23:52.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read the link that Dan sent; it's frightening! I used to get this 50 years ago, but bikes were were much more rudimentary then, and so were saddles, often made of hard leather. I used to angle it forwards but then always had a re-adjust my sitting position every few hundred yards. These days, saddles are so much better, so get a new and good one. And also wear gel shorts which really help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3765" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:23:52.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9410" CreationDate="2012-05-15T20:34:18.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a good cycle stand, hoist it up, and clean it every week. Use the Park CG-2 chain cleaner and just give the cogs a good scrub with degreaser. Then wash off, let dry, and lube. Lube all the chain wheel as well plus all the moving parts. You will probably get slight rusting (very quickly) where there are screws facing upwards, such as on the handlebars. The rain has nowhere to go. So put a tiny bit of grease on the screw. Whatever you do, don't use a high pressure spray; it can clear out essential grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3765" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:34:18.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2012-05-15T21:14:02.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I manage it is with a pannier which has a spring clip. I just stick it under there, parallel to the frame of the bike, &amp;amp; it stays there quite well. Both my larger tripod &amp;amp; smaller ones fit there fine! Though if you're going out at night, make sure that they don't obstruct any lights you have on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3912" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T21:14:02.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-16T03:27:46.427" Score="14" ViewCount="6372" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I was riding ~3 feet out from parked cars (dooring is the most common way to get killed) and this pickup truck comes up behind me and just lays on its horn for an entire block. The driver was also revving his engine and coming within a foot or two of my back wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The driver intentionally cut me off forcing me to swerve to avoid the back of their truck. As he passed me the passenger rolled down his window and informed me (using very crude language) that I should get off the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had three or four incidents like this in the last year and I am getting increasingly infuriated by them.  They have all been on residential streets that drivers are using to avoid the city's arteries.  I do my best to be courteous and don't accept this behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that I need to do something so that I don't end up &lt;del&gt;throwing my bike through someone's windshield&lt;/del&gt; doing something inappropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been considering getting a camera on my bike but wonder if this would be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;  Has anyone ever contacted their local police regarding aggressive drivers?  Were the police helpful?  Would video evidence be useful?  (I suspect that a camera would help to remember an aggressive driver's information even if video evidence was not required by the police).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; In the case of an accident would video evidence be useful to press criminal charges against a driver?  If I am injured would video evidence be useful if I wanted to seek damages in civil court?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Ontario, Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1617/is-complaining-to-companies-about-bad-driving-like-howling-at-the-moon&quot;&gt;&quot;Is complaining to companies about bad driving like howling at the moon?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T19:01:38.520" Title="If I report intentional dangerous driving to police, will it have any effect?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;camera&gt;&lt;liability&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9445" CreationDate="2012-05-16T05:01:59.103" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would talk with the local law enforcement first rather then &quot;reporting&quot;. This does a couple of things that will actually help rather then hurt (in most cases). You are asking them for advice rather than being a &quot;whining bike rider&quot;. Most cops are good guys that want to help out, but if you make it official, they HAVE to do paperwork. If you approach them more casually, often they will already know the offender and might just spread the word to their fellow officers that the driver of the particular truck has &quot;already failed the attitude test&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, many cops are in shape and are bikers, runners, triathletes, etc. Ask around and I bet you'll find a couple in town that you can approach as an athlete first...again, by not making it official at first, you may allow them to fix the problem without causing them problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cops may want it to get official as well, if they've gotten some complaints and want to shut the guy down be prepared to file a report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On cameras: they are great for evidence, but do little to address the problem initially. They can't hurt, might help, but avoiding/fixing the problem needs to be priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T05:01:59.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5319" CreationDate="2012-05-16T05:33:34.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The material that the bearings are made of is only one piece of the whole mechanical package. I've worked on bikes in the shop that had ceramic BB's and all sorts of steel. From a material point of view, ceramic has the possibility to be better, but as others have noted, you pay a large premium...and often they may not be the best anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it this way, oak makes a better table then pine. But pine is easier to work with and the resulting table might be smoother and put together better than the oak one...and cheaper at that. Likewise, there are steel BB's, hubs, etc. that are better than some of the ceramic bearing counterparts. I have my favorite and it's a decent priced steel (Hawk Racing), I have yet to see anything that is better on a bike that I've worked on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidenote: Videos like the one shown should be taken with the grain of salt...it's marketing and the demo has been set up for a particular purpose. Talk with the guys at the LBS and get opinions from both sides of the counter (the mechanics and the customers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T05:33:34.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9418" CreationDate="2012-05-16T05:55:55.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Time ATACs on my fixie; there is enough float (they offer 2 float settings using the same cleat) so that my busted right knee doesn't hurt, releases very quickly and easily (as long as the correct technique is used), yet doesn't release at all when I have to pull up hard on the pedals to slow down/stop.  I'm far from an expert on the matter, but I would recommend these over the Shimano SPDs I used to have on my MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4094" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T05:55:55.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-16T09:53:03.000" Score="9" ViewCount="6070" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 50 and have been cycling for years, but only 25 mile rides and indoor training. I've been training for 8 weeks, adding 5 miles a week to my big ride, but at 60 miles it is taking me 4:20 and I can't seem to improve my average! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am on a touring bike but really seem to struggle with energy. I only eat once half way but drink regularly. At my rate 100 miles is going to take me about 7 hours. I don't think I can ride for that long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a racing bike make that much difference? I am cycling about 110 miles a week currently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4095" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T02:30:59.827" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T23:53:05.707" Title="Will changing from a touring bike to a racing bike improve my energy level?" Tags="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9449" CreationDate="2012-05-16T10:02:55.960" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the times you're posting for the distances you're riding, especially on a touring bike are pretty reasonable. Professional athletes, or racers, will ride quicker, but for an amateur aiming for a century your times are fine. On a longer ride, you need more time for rest stops and food and nature breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A road bike will make you a little quicker, especially when you're riding into a headwind. It will also make the time spent more comfortable because you have more options to vary your position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you keep up your fluids, electrolytes and carbs. Sports drinks, energy gels, sports bars and glucose lollies can really help when you hit the wall, or 'bonk'. On long rides, you need to keep eating regularly, even if you don't feel hungry (sometimes even when you're sick of eating sugary foods). It's amazing the pick up you can get from eating some good fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep riding, keep training and the distance and time on the bike will be more achievable and comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2012-05-17T01:59:13.127" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T01:59:13.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3535" CreationDate="2012-05-16T11:07:04.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The model I had was BR-M485. I found an article saying that shimano had accepted some of them were faulty - leaking oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since bought a set of Shimano Deore M596, and they work like a dream!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1400" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T11:07:04.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9449" CreationDate="2012-05-16T11:38:05.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;14 MPH is a fairly good pace for that ride -- I wish I could do that well anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take along some snacks -- sports bars, fruit bars, plain old candy, nuts -- whatever you'll find appealing.  Have a break about once an hour with a snack and extra water.  And keep practicing -- the body builds up endurance fairly slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seven hours in the saddle isn't that long, once you get your butt conditioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much difference a &quot;racing bike&quot; would make depends on your &quot;touring bike&quot;.  If your current bike has drop bars then the main difference is weight (which has very little effect on speed) and tire width/tread.  Keeping tires inflated to the max sidewall pressure will minimize tire drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T11:38:05.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9445" CreationDate="2012-05-16T11:57:08.617" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm convinced that the prevalence of cameras is changing the attitude of certain drivers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the last year or so, I've ridden with a helmet cam. I'm now on my second camera and I'm toying with mounting my old camera (lower definition, poorer lens) on the seat post to face to the rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't for this kind of situation, but it would certainly be useful as evidence. If you search YouTube there are many, many examples of similar behaviour. If the police can't or won't help, just publish the footage on the web - the driver will almost certainly never see it, but you never know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had several situations where a rant from an angry driver has suddenly become an embarrassed silence when I've pointed out that they're being recorded and I'd be quite happy to post the results to YouTube, the police, their employers (this does work well if it's a work van or similar) ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been several cases here in the UK where dangerous and aggressive driving has been prosecuted successfully solely on the basis of the cyclist's camera evidence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the civil side, I know personally of one accident victim who was knocked off his bike and whose claim was enormously aided by the footage from a cyclist behind them who had been wearing a camera. Anecdotal, I know, but he is certain that the claim was processed more smoothly because of the video recording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this seems like a good idea, the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1060/what-is-a-good-camera-arrangement-for-city-riding&quot;&gt;what-is-a-good-camera-arrangement-for-city-riding&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8628/recommendations-for-inconspicuous-helmet-mounted-video-camera&quot;&gt;recommendations-for-inconspicuous-helmet-mounted-video-camera&lt;/a&gt; might be useful in finding an appropriate camera solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first case, though, I would definitely contact your local law enforcement agency. You never know, maybe this miscreant has done it before. If a handful of independent people all report them, there's an increasing chance of something being done. And you're raising awareness in the police that there are people willing to stand up and complain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be worth talking to your local councilor - ask about what they might consider doing to make life safer for their electorate ...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T14:01:55.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2012-05-16T13:54:09.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I either strap it across my back rifle-style or strap it across my camera bag (I use a Mountainsmith hiking pack like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mountainsmith.com/products.asp?productId=317&amp;amp;categoryId=49&amp;amp;subCategoryId=0&amp;amp;subCategory2Id=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to carry my SLR when I'm biking). I've found I can control it a lot better than if it's sticking out either behind be or to either side. You can buy shoulder straps for your tripod (that incidentally ensure that it doesn't open as you're hurtling down the road) or just make one from a length of tubular webbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T13:54:09.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2012-05-16T16:00:25.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a sling like shoulder strap and bag. I dont mind the bag, it has some padding and room for extra tools / supplies. I have tried hooking a strap to the tripod itself (at the head and the weight hook, but it felt more unsecured than just using the bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T16:00:25.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9435" CreationDate="2012-05-16T18:36:47.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Phone Attachment:&#xA;I would need to get better views of the front of the bike. Probably fab something starting with an existing mount (looks like you started down that direction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Map Case: &#xA;It looks like you already have a map case, if not, do a search. If you take one that will fit more or less in the gap on the bar and add some lengths of double sided velcro you should be in business. May require a bit of playing around to find the best attachment points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start with medium loops at the bottom circling the bars about where they attach to the &quot;stem area&quot; (not a real stem on the Boris bikes) and a bigger loop going around the front plate. If this tends to slide, you can add pieces of velcro at the back of the top strap coming down at an angle (think a 'K' rotated 90 degrees to the right) and securing underneath the map case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have it figured, you can wrap the velcro that is not actively sticking anywhere with some old jeans and run the sewing machine across. This will help keep it all clean and make it so you aren't spending all the time unsticking it from itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searches:&#xA;'bike map case'&#xA;'velcro cable tie roll, 3/4&quot; x 5 yards&quot;'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T18:36:47.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9394" CreationDate="2012-05-17T02:59:02.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a few days with no accepted answer I figure I might throw something in that is a little outside the box:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a Kelty Child Carrier for my kids until they were old enough to ride their own bikes. Something very similar to this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/JhWk7J&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/JhWk7J&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used it to go downhilling, trails, actual hiking, skateparks (bowls and some smaller jumps), store, school (I was in school and take them sometimes) and when you get to where you need to dismount, you can leave your bike and keep the kid strapped, VERY useful after they have fallen asleep, then when you get to your destination they have a chair right there and you never had to wake them up for ANYTHING! I modified it with a camelback chest strap to keep the child's shoulder straps together so they wouldn't fall out if slightly inverted. The best part of it was the waist belt, get that strapped right and you dont even notice the kid on your back!! So nice! I gave mine to my brother when he had his first, and he LOVES it too!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T02:59:02.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9435" CreationDate="2012-05-17T03:17:48.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a big clip that was supposed to be used to accept a ball attachment for like your windshield suction cup style cell phone holder and you could just clip it to something like a basket or a laptop screen or whatever. It had a strong spring and could be used to mount to that book holder basket thing, but for the life of me I can't find anything similar!! I did a google image search for &quot;motorcycle cell phone holder&quot; it sent back a HUGE list of things, some that might work (also googled &quot;boris bikes&quot; to see what I was dealing with: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/JhYO6a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/JhYO6a&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually like your contraption, and the holder seems like it could work if you got some hair bands, those elastic rubber band things girls use in their hair: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/JhZ7xI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/JhZ7xI&lt;/a&gt; and wrapped a few around it. Kind of Ghetto, but it should keep your phone out from under taxis!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T03:17:48.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2012-05-17T14:06:40.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://northstbags.com/woodward/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; North St Bags Woodward Convertible Pannier/Backpack &lt;/a&gt; and use it all the time. It has hidden backpack straps which make it easy to wear on your back and quickly converts to a standard pannier for mounting on your rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T14:06:40.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2012-05-17T20:27:58.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are in the UK, use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net/mobile/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CycleStreets&lt;/a&gt;. It's a free journey-planning website designed specifically for cycling, so it can route you across off-road cycle tracks and bridges, and it gives you a choice of faster routes for more confident cyclists, and quieter routes if you want to avoid traffic. As well as the main and a mobile website, they have free apps for iPhone and Android. It uses data from OpenStreetMap (the wiki-like atlas anyone can edit), so even if it doesn't find a route you know is there, you can add the missing link yourself, or ask the developers to improve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it all the time. Sorry if you're not in the UK, as it's currently UK only: as a not-for-profit they can't yet afford the server capacity to route in other countries too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T20:27:58.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9464" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-05-17T20:51:42.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, navigation involves &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/maps&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'maps'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;maps&lt;/a&gt; and possibly a compass. Today it's just as likely to be a &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/gps&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'gps'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;gps&lt;/a&gt; unit, or an app on an &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/iphone&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'iphone'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;iphone&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/android&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'android'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;android&lt;/a&gt; smartphone. Navigation questions might be about &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/planning&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'planning'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;planning&lt;/a&gt; a route before you start, or finding your location when you're on the bike. They could be about techniques for identifying landmarks, about the meaning of road signs and markings, or about the devices you carry with you to navigate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your question is specific to &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/gps&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'gps'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;gps&lt;/a&gt; or to &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/maps&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'maps'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;maps&lt;/a&gt;, use those tags instead. If it's about finding safe places to ride, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/safety&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'safety'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;safety&lt;/a&gt; might be appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2012-05-17T21:30:02.970" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T21:30:02.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9465" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-05-17T20:51:42.567" Score="0" Body="Finding a cycleable route from where you are to where you're going: maybe the most efficient route for a mile-long journey in town; maybe a tour across Europe." OwnerUserId="3512" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2012-05-17T21:30:05.857" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T21:30:05.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9466" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-05-17T21:04:59.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Signalling&lt;/em&gt; means sending a message to another road user, perhaps by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;raising or waving your arms or hands (commonly used by cyclists and police officers directing traffic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sounding horns or bells (used by all vehicles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lighting coloured lights (mostly motor vehicles, but sometimes cyclists too)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shouting or hollering (mostly by cyclists and pedestrians)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions with this tag might be about how to use signals as a cyclist, or how to interpret or react to signals made by other road users. They might also be tagged with &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/legal&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'legal'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;legal&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/safety&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'safety'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;safety&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Signals&lt;/em&gt; are also sets of lights you find on the road to control the flow of traffic, including traffic lights at junctions, lights at pedestrian or cycle crossings, and lights at level crossings (railroad crossings). Road markings and signs used for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/navigation&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'navigation'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;navigation&lt;/a&gt;, and signs giving instructions such as to &quot;Give way&quot; or go a certain speed, are not usually classed as &lt;em&gt;signals&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2012-05-17T21:30:20.223" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T21:30:20.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9467" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-05-17T21:04:59.480" Score="0" Body="How road users communicate with each other: hand gestures, flashing lights, horns and bells. Not traffic signs that tell you what to do or where to go, nor markings on the road surface itself." OwnerUserId="3512" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2012-05-17T21:30:28.757" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T21:30:28.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1736" CreationDate="2012-05-17T21:18:47.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are in the UK, use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net/mobile/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CycleStreets&lt;/a&gt;. It's a free journey-planning website designed specifically for cycling, so it can route you across off-road cycle tracks and bridges, and it gives you a choice of faster routes for more confident cyclists, and quieter routes if you want to avoid traffic. As well as the main and a mobile website, they have free apps for iPhone and Android. They use OpenStreetMap data (as other people have mentioned) as the source for the routing, so they have the same property that you can fix dodgy routes yourself, and add new links straight away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my area, a new foot and cycle bridge was built more than five years ago. It's still not visible on Google Maps, so not available for their walking directions, but it was added to OpenStreetMap the day it was opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if you're not in the UK, as it's currently UK only: as a not-for-profit they can't yet afford the server capacity to route in other countries too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T21:18:47.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9449" CreationDate="2012-05-17T22:37:30.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride centuries with my 57 year old father several times a year and he holds up pretty darn well. Make sure you are eating something even small ever 25 miles or so. I found that when my weight was up a bit more than now, I had to eat more often. Also, to keep your energy store up, try pedalling at a higher tempo but in a lower gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A race bike will be faster, but will come with a more agressive rider position which could mean a sore lower back. Unless your current bike is a tank, you could give upgrading components a shot. You might find that you can get a lot without spending a lot. Stiffer, more aero wheels can give you a great boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and great riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4102" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T22:37:30.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9449" CreationDate="2012-05-18T01:03:54.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's some perspective from a guy near your age. I'm near your age (55) and I do a few century or century+ rides most years. Usually my first century of the year is in mid May. I do ride a road bike; however, one of my riding buddies rides a touring bike and it's not limiting since we're not racing. (Ok, a bit on the hills.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a rough sketch of what my buddies and I do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Training&lt;/strong&gt; - Originally, I did what you describe and gradually built up mileage over the training period. Basically, it was a few short rides during the week, with progressively longer rides on the weekends. That is until I read an article (*10 Weeks to Your Strongest Century) in &lt;em&gt;Bicycling&lt;/em&gt; magazine in 2005 by Chris Carmichael. Essentially, the plan is 10 weeks of &lt;em&gt;interval training&lt;/em&gt;. After following that plan, 100 miles was achieved much easier than ever before. (Look for &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/193403083X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Time Crunched Cyclist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; or consider &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joe Friel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. Both of these guys have great plans to get you in shape for that 100 mile ride.) Anyway, interval training means intensity...and the distance becomes much less consequential. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nutrition&lt;/strong&gt; - Once you're riding a bike for several hours, you need to think about consuming calories. So, for me, at my weight, I'm after ~400 calories per hour. These are primarily carb/starch calories so that the muscles get energy as needed. What &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; actually need depends upon your weight and fitness. This could be energy bars, stopping/eating at rest stops, high-tech energy concoctions, etc...anyway, you do need to fuel your cycling engine throughout the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Teamwork&lt;/strong&gt; - You didn't mention as to whether you plan on doing 100 miles solo or not. Riding that far, and that long, is much better with a friend or two. Thing is, you can take turns drafting one another. When you draft behind another rider, you take a huge load off of your energy output, thus giving you rest. Not only drafting, it's simply encouraging and more fun to ride with friends.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Getting a road bike vs keeping the touring bike?&lt;/strong&gt; - It depends on your goals. Do you plan on touring where you will be filling up panniers and riding days at a time? If so, keep the touring bike. If you plan on fitness/enjoyment riding plus the occasional century, get a road bike. On the other hand, it's theoretically possible that you need another bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Key Issue&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am on a touring bike but really seem to struggle with energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely it's not the bike. A struggle with &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;energy&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is often, if not usually, a nutrition issue. And also a &lt;em&gt;fitness&lt;/em&gt; issue. No, it's not usually the bike gearing; usually it's the cyclist in this situation. Change up your training and nutrition first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;By the way, I am not affiliated with Chris Charmichael or Joe Friel in any way. However, I have found their advice useful.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T18:39:07.753" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T18:39:07.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9449" CreationDate="2012-05-18T12:09:20.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say what your weight is, so I'll assume you're at a normal weight. Even an extra 15-20 pounds can really slow you down. If you doubt that, strap a 20 pound weight to the back of your bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 53 years old, and this is the first year in a long time that I've done any serious riding. My goal is to do 1K miles this year (currently at ~560) and I ride about 3 times per week. I'll do 25 miles on Monday and Thursday nights (with a group) and a longer ride on Saturday. My Monday and Thursday rides average 17-18 mph. I'm getting in better shape than I've been in, in a long time. So, the point of me saying this is that even at age 50, you can still improve your fitness a great deal. On my Monday and Thursday rides, there are a couple 65+ year old riders that I cannot keep up with! I actually find this very encouraging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also working up to doing a century this September. I have little doubt I'll be able to do it, and if I can do it averaging 15 mph (not factoring in the wind), I would be very satisfied. Before I do the century, I plan on doing a couple 75 mile rides this summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I bought a new bike this year. For the past 20 years, I've had a touring bike. Got a new Cannondale Synapse. It's probably 3-5 pounds lighter and I can notice the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T12:09:20.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1285" CreationDate="2012-05-18T13:23:18.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use all four official hand signals when cycling.  This is in the UK of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning left:  Left arm out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning right:  Right arm out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slowing down or stopping: right arm out, palm down and waving clearly up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going straight across (for junctions):  Right arm bent out at the elbow with hand pointing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4103" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T13:23:18.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9476" CreationDate="2012-05-18T20:37:35.303" Score="10" ViewCount="47043" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing research for a future purchase of new wheels (for everyday riding) for a 2012 Cannondale CAAD10 Ultegra. I want to spend ~$1000 (give or take $200 or so). In my price range I've found: Boyd Cycling, Williams Cycling, November Bicycles, and Soul Wheels (a bit over price range). They all offer similar wheelsets for a similar price. Are there any other reputable brands I should be looking at as well? I'm specifically looking at carbon clinchers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Sacramento, CA (very flat city), am 6ft tall, 130lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now that I've identified some different brands, how do I choose between the brands?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I choose rim depth (38mm vs 50mm vs 58mm seem to be the commonly-used ones)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4106" LastEditorUserId="4106" LastEditDate="2012-05-20T02:34:50.690" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T15:03:00.363" Title="Deep-Profile Carbon Wheels -- How to choose depth?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9475" CreationDate="2012-05-18T20:54:13.273" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The full answer depends on where you are riding, how you are riding, and the conditions you are riding in. Windy, winding, hilly courses that you tackle on a road bike with some friends would have me leaning towards a less deep set of wheels. A flat calm straight triathlon course on a tri-bike I'd want more depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the wheels you are looking at, and the price range you are looking at, you aren't going to be getting into the newer shaped wheels (like the Zipp Firecrest and other similarly shaped wheels) that work especially well in cross winds...which means the depth will come into play if you are in a windy situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bottom line would be go with shallower wheels unless you have hard reason to go deep. The slight aero benefit of the deeper wheels will be outweighed by the greater versatility of the shallower ones. With the exception of the latest tech in wheels (Firecrest shape) my #1 criteria is hubs...a great hub on a so-so rim is much better than a so-so hub on a great rim...keep that in mind when making final decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, ride on a set of the wheels. Find a friend that has a set identical or similar to the ones you are thinking about and take them on a typical ride (not just a ten minute test).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: I've been recommending folks to consider semi-carbon (carbon with alloy braking surface). These are a bit heavier, but not much and you won't have to change brake pads moving back and forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun, be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T20:54:13.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5705" CreationDate="2012-05-18T21:55:22.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road bikes tires do fine on wet asphalt, because they are thin enough for their load to press away the water underneath. Additional attention should be payed to curbs and gully covers, as they can cause the tire to slip and pulling on the bike. Try to hit each swell as orthogonal as possible both vertical and horizontal to minimize forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4107" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T21:55:22.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9479" CreationDate="2012-05-19T00:24:54.530" Score="9" ViewCount="6698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently running Continental Grand Prix S 4000 in 23-622 / 700x23C front and rear. I am about to buy a new set of tires for my road bike and am fancying a smaller tire for the front and a wider tire for the rear. Actually Continental offers such tires as a set (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/de/continental/fahrrad/themen/rennrad/rennradreifen/gp_attack_force/gpattackforce_de.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;GP attack and GP Force&lt;/a&gt;). Also note, that Motorcycles usually have a wider rear tire to support quick acceleration but still have dual disk brakes in the front to maximize brake force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to ride fast in a traffic situation where the majority of bikes travels slower. So I am often underestimated and have to brake sharply. While panic braking my bike tends to pulling, which I have learned to manage. I suspect a wider tire to reduce pulling, by developing more grip in low load situations. The weight balance gets shifted to the front, when breaking sharply and therefore the front tire does not skid even with much break pressure. The back tire on the other hand does only carry little weight and skid with the same brake pressure applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also facing periodical flat tires with a frequency of 1 per 10 weeks or so on the rear tire. I suspect a wider tire to pick up fewer glass splinters, by reducing the pressure. The rear tire carries the main load while non-braked riding and a wider one distributes the force to a bigger surface area thus reducing the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the input. Your answers have helped me a lot in finding my decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4107" LastEditorUserId="4107" LastEditDate="2012-05-20T21:30:46.320" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T08:46:47.530" Title="Is it a good idea to get a narrower front tire and a wider rear tire on a road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9478" CreationDate="2012-05-19T04:53:15.857" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently running the Conti Attack/Force combo on my road bike. I have previously run both the GP 4000, and the Schwalbe Ultremo ZX on the same bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concept behind the Attack/Force is that the slightly wider (24mm) rear tire will allow just a bit more comfort, and the slightly narrower front tire (22mm) will be a touch lighter with more reactive handling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel a difference in comfort, but I can't say the handling was noticeably different. Of course, the GP 4000 was pretty stable to begin with, so maybe that's a good thing that I don't notice a change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do feel a bit more stable in a corner, and I feel like the rubber compound is a bit stickier. They say it's the same Black Chili compound used on the current GP 4000, so maybe that's psychological. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can say that the comfort aspect is worthwhile, and there is nothing I have bad to say, so why not try them. A set (here, at least) is the same price as a set of GP 4000's. No loss, at least, and a bit of gain on the comfort side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@DanielRHicks commented that you might need to worry about braking power or traction. I've had no issues with braking performance, and these are a pro peleton tire. I don't see any issue there. I've also had no issues with flats on the tires, but then, I didn't have with the GP 4000 either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T04:53:15.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9475" CreationDate="2012-05-19T05:01:11.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Dubai, also a very flat city. My experience says if your average ride is flat and fast, go deep, unless the area is extremely windy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My family is from the Bay Area originally, and I've lived in Napa and Sacramento. For Sacramento, and in your budget area, I'd look at something like he Altair 80 Carbon Clincher from Profile Design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are good, if a bit heavy, full carbon aero wheels. They come in a 52mm deep and an 80mm deep, in both tubular and clincher varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are fast, aero, and strong. They cut price by not cutting too much weight, so there are better options if you want to raise your budget, but not in that price range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T05:01:11.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-19T05:32:51.593" Score="8" ViewCount="21308" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I fit 6 bikes on a hitch rack for my Toyota Sienna van?  Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4108" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T21:38:14.490" Title="How can I fit 6 bikes on a hitch rack?" Tags="&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9481" CreationDate="2012-05-19T05:41:56.107" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a rack that will do six. I have no personal experience with this one and the fact that neither of the top two rack companies (Thule and Yakima) do a six bike rack makes me think you should approach with caution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Link removed due to the old link being expired/stale. The link was to a &quot;Northshore 6 Bike Rack&quot;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen, with mixed success, 4-bike bike racks where folks have strapped an additional bike into the mix. Again, proceed with caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T12:59:04.377" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T12:59:04.377" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2012-05-19T07:31:59.353" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just go for the cheapest derailleur you can buy. They all have a big spring, two jockey wheels and a cantilever system. Both expensive and cheap ones wear out at about the same rate. &#xA;They both get gummed up with crud.&#xA;When new, they shift identically... why wouldn't they?. When really worn out, the jockey wheels wobble and shifting isn't so precise.&#xA;Maybe the few, very expensive derailleurs with jockey wheels that use bearings may last a little longer (perhaps they don't, perhaps they're pointless) ... but why pay 4x for this benefit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget all this nonsense about &quot;better quality material, better made&quot; - and no-one being able to tell you what specifically is better. It's all marketing rubbish for gullible consumers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4109" LastEditorUserId="4109" LastEditDate="2012-05-19T07:38:20.877" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T07:38:20.877" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9410" CreationDate="2012-05-19T08:11:14.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often ride in rain, so here is what I have observed and what I have been advised concerning post-wet-ride-bike-maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Advice: I have been advised to wipe the frame clean of mud, as mud promotes paint degradation and corrosion. Result: Most modern bikes use aluminium frames, those don't corrode (they oxidate, but ... nevermind). I haven't seen any practical benefit from this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Advice: Remove the saddle post, turn the bike upside down and leave it like that overnight. Result: This is a MUST. Most times some water leaks out. This protects your bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is any mud or sand on the chain, front or rear sprocket, I wash all of them with a jet of water and a mop, then lubricate them. Otherways, there is a grinding sound and most surely, rapid wear of the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any further maintenance I leave for an yearly (what else to do in the winter) maintenance, consisting of complete disassembly of the bike and thorough cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, take this answer with a grain of salt. For example, despite following (2), the bottom bracket of my bike had turned to rotten rust for just three years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun! Riding in summer rain or in hail is and adventure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T08:11:14.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9481" CreationDate="2012-05-19T15:41:04.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that hitch racks intended to carry large numbers of bikes (including the North Shore six bike rack) tend to require heavy duty 2&quot; receivers. Ensure your vehicle is properly equipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have room inside the van, you can use one of these to carry a few bikes (perhaps in addition to 4 bikes on a more typical hitch rack):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketote.com/store/category.php?category=12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.biketote.com/store/category.php?category=12&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the Bike Tote in the back of my Toyota Tacoma pickup to carry two bikes. It works well -- it holds the bikes securely, and is very easy to install/remove the rack to/from the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T15:41:04.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9478" CreationDate="2012-05-19T15:55:18.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Motorbikes have larger rear tyres in order to allow the 189bhp (in the case of an R1) which is significantly more than most cars (twice mine infact) the twin brake calipers on the front is about the weight distribution under breaking (it all goes forward) and cooling, and pull (to one side) It common on MTB to run a larger front tyre than rear, better front grip, and no way are you going to spin wheels due to lack of grip&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not expect a change of a few mm to make any difference to your breaking performance, and the contact are, is a fraction of the carcase width, so I don't think puncture resistance would be improved, infact by running lower preasures, i would expect a larger contact area AND snake bites&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bit along with all things like this, try it and see if it works&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1978" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T15:55:18.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-19T18:24:25.207" Score="2" ViewCount="818" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to replace a compact 50T chainring from my Sram Force set-up with a 50T Red chainring, they both have the same 110 PCD so I don't see a problem, does anyone know if I'm wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4112" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T13:05:09.683" Title="Replacing a Force Chainring with a Red" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9489" CreationDate="2012-05-19T18:59:56.690" Score="2" ViewCount="27546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently popped the tube in my front tire and need help replacing it. I don't really know very much about bikes or the assortment of numbers on tubes, tires, and wheels. Here is what I do know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire that popped has 700x35/43C on it.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qr1vf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old Tire&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spare that I got when I bought the bike has A2 25/32 x 622/635 on it. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khvEN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SpareTire&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told that the spare is not the right size for my bike. I inflated it just a bit to see what it looked like in my tire and it does seem a bit small as it looks like it has a bit of room. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/oWgYg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spare in 1&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/rQFk1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spare in 2&quot;&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just got a spare tube that has a schrader valve and learned that those cannot fit through the hole in my wheel. I'm not sure but I think this is the type of tube I need to get &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002K2DQ4S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Bicycle-Presta-25-35c-27-Inch/dp/B002K2DQ4S/ref=sr_1_10?s=cycling&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1337452869&amp;amp;sr=1-10&lt;/a&gt; 700 x 35-45c or 700 x 25-35c as I was told I need 35 to be in the range of the second set of numbers. Is this correct? Can I get these with a presta valve in a store (like Target, Walmart, etc local large merchant) or should I just order and wait?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For additional info: My actual wheel says it is 622x17 6061H-T6. On the inside of the wheel groove it looks like it is stamped 900x16. It looks like the tire name and brand is Alexrims G6000. It is a hybrid bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4113" LastEditorUserId="4113" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T00:55:47.077" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T06:31:57.027" Title="I need help replacing my bike's tube" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9488" CreationDate="2012-05-19T20:49:46.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any bike store, and probably any Walmart/Target/etc, will have what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700C (or 650c, 26&quot;, 29&quot;, etc) is how big around the tube/wheel is, while the x23,28 or x30-42, etc are the width range. You want to find one that, as you mentioned, includes the target size within the range and is a match on size and valve type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the &quot;replacement&quot; not fitting, I'm thinking your wheel is a 700c/29&quot; and you are most likely looking for the right tube: 700x[range including 35] with a presta valve. That said, if you have a local bike shop, swing in there and the bike mechanic can make sure you are getting what you need. In most cases, the tube is going to cost the same (it's actually cheaper at the LBS I hang at as they buy tubes in bulk and sell them at close to cost) and you will be sure to get the right item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus: Ask the mechanic if he'd mind coaching you through changing out the tire. Someone who has changed a couple hundred tubes can usually give you pointers on how to roll the tire back on without tools, hot to prevent a pinch flat, and how to make the whole process quicker and easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T20:49:46.110" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9487" CreationDate="2012-05-19T20:56:00.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the BCD is the same size and the tooth count is the same there should be no problem at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take care to not strip the chainring bolts when reassembling. I generally tighten these in a &quot;skip one&quot; pattern, like you might when changing a wheel on a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you change tooth count you will have to retune the drive train, but usually this is pretty straight forward as long as the front derailleur can be adjusted correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T20:56:00.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9487" CreationDate="2012-05-20T02:07:05.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible, as long as you use the SRAM Red Black Edition 2011 or earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new 2012 Exogram SRAM Red requires a different front derailleur design, and while it will physically bolt up, it won't shift well at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other SRAM compact (110 BCD) chain ring will work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T13:05:09.683" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T13:05:09.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9478" CreationDate="2012-05-20T07:23:28.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;More rubber touching the road means more drag, which will probably help with braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just think if you will want to have that extra drag against you when speeding vs the extra drag for you when braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And keep in mind what daniel said in the comments. most of your braking is in the front. so changes in the front wheel will make more difference for panic braking. maybe a wider front and slimmer rear is what you are really looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd go for a lighter bike as it will help both cases. Less mass moving, less inertia to break against. Great excuse for an all carbon shenanigans :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-04-23T18:35:37.057" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T18:35:37.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2012-05-20T07:34:31.263" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;keep the android phone, maybe even bolt it to the bike, and use it exclusively for that with the iphone being a hotspot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i did the research for you, as my wife rather the iphone. There's absolutely no GPS app that does a decent job in text to speech for cars. let alone with bike functionality. You can test yourself. most of them have trial periods. all of them suck. and are around $9/mo plus extra fees for the text-to-speech functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;using the iphone as a hotspot allows you to use google maps navigator, which has Bike Routes, and TTS. all that you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it being your 'extra phone' you wont feel that bad if you fall or something, as your main phone will be protected in a bag or something. and better have an empty phone stolen then the one with all your info :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T07:34:31.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9497" CreationDate="2012-05-20T12:57:59.207" Score="2" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke the master link in my chain a while ago and my LSB told me it was because I wasn't cleaning/lubricating my chain often enough. The chain had experienced more wear than it should have as a result. I asked about replacing the chain and was told that you typically don't want to replace individual parts of the drive-train, that mixing and matching new chain and old chain-rings is a bad idea. Is there any truth to this? Why would a new chain on an old (we're talking less than 4 months) be a bad thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T02:56:41.967" Title="Is there any reason to keep original drive-train components together until they can all be replaced?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9494" CreationDate="2012-05-20T14:12:41.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many miles do you have on the bike?  How worn was the chain, when the bike shop guy used a gauge on it (which he should have done)?  (Note that usually shifting problems and chain skipping are the first signs of a badly worn chain.  A failed master link is not usually the first sign of wear.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally a chain should be replaced about every 2000 miles (when chain stretch measures about 0.75%, and certainly no more than 1%).  If you wait longer than that the sprockets &quot;take a set&quot; to the worn chain and a new chain will not fit as well.  But if you replace the chain before it's that badly worn then you can get 5000 miles or better from a rear cluster and 10K miles from your front rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;replace everything together&quot; &quot;rule&quot; is stated for two reasons:  1) It makes the bike shops money, and 2) most people don't replace their chains until they're too worn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even then, the rear cluster is usually the seriously worn piece and the front rings are often not bad enough to need replacing.  And, in any event, a competent bike shop should have a gauge for measuring sprocket wear, vs just using &quot;the rule&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T14:12:41.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9445" CreationDate="2012-05-20T15:30:06.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar incident (horn blowing, screaming, and attempted assault with his vehicle) and did report it with plate number and description.  The interviewing officer told me they'd have to identify me to the driver. Since I didn't trust the him not to seek me out to retaliate, I only left it as a report in case of a future offense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the officer tried to tell me I shouldn't have been riding there anyway (a main street, not a highway or other restricted place) then covered his butt by disclaiming: &quot;of course, I can't tell you not to ride there...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a sense of the &quot;oh, it's only a bike...&quot; attitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Milford, NH PD, if anyone's interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3825" LastEditorUserId="3825" LastEditDate="2012-05-20T21:08:29.203" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T21:08:29.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9494" CreationDate="2012-05-20T17:55:25.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Breaking a master link, as already said, is not so common, and is usually not related to the chain wear. It can be related to loss of lubrication, for example when the chain RUSTS and gets some hard links that cause the chain to get entangled with the derailer while pedaling, for example. But only because it is worn, supposing it is clean and lubed, I'd say no.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installing a new chain with an used cassette might be divided in two kinds of situations:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You install and the chain doesn't skip. This is the ideal situation, meaning you replaced the chain at the right time, and your cassette will last much longer (note: this is the recommended thing to do - use lots of chains with the same cassette, replacing them often as soon as they get some wearing);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You install the chain AND IT SKIPS over the cogs when you pedal. That means you waited too much to replace the chain. It might be very difficult or almost impossible to use the new chain and make the cassete wear &quot;back to normal&quot;. In this case, it MIGH BE a better idea to keep riding with that chain for a bit more and replace it together with the cassette later (waiting too much can be dangerous, since the chainrings might get damaged in the process). Even when the chain skips, though, if it skips only while pedaling hard, and/or only on specific gears, it is usually possible to ride slowly in the beginning, and the skipping starts to disappear as the cogs wear, and everything might come back to normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the shop guy may or may not have told you the truth, depending on how much your cassette is worn. This is not an easy thing to do if he didn't measure the chain with a gauge, so it is possible that is obvously worn, or he has a very good eye, or he actually wants to sell you the whole kit. Besides, the need to change everything together is surely NOT true, since the expected is to change the chain often, so as to preserve the gears, which can last MUCH longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would do the following: buy a new chain and try. If it works, it works. If it skips, I put back the old chain and keep the new one at home. When the time arrives, I change the cassette and then install the new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Finally, some crafty people are able to remanufacture the shape of the cassette teeth by disassembling the cassette and correcting the teeth shape with a round file, one by one. I did it successfully a lot of times, but it takes some skill and a lot of time and hand labor, sort of a masochistic hobby, but anyway it works and can save you some money or at least the trip to the shop.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T02:56:41.967" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T02:56:41.967" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9499" CreationDate="2012-05-20T19:00:20.300" Score="4" ViewCount="5502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing some 26 x 2.10&quot; mountain bike tires that I have on my bike with some thinner 26 x 1 3/8&quot; road bike tires for commuting, however somehow even though they both say that they are 26&quot; the new road bike tires are too big for the rim!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can take the new tires back, what should I look for when picking out a new set of tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4116" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T16:30:44.880" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T16:30:44.880" Title="Why does a decimal sized 26&quot; tire fit my rims but a fractional sized 26&quot; tire doesn't?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9498" CreationDate="2012-05-20T20:06:52.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You ask what to look for when buying MTB rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious thing would be ask for Mountain Bike tires (slick tires in your case) at the shop. Just using the words &quot;mountain bike&quot; is enough for any shop attendant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you want to take a tire and, just by looking, tell if it fits your rims, you must look for the ETRTO code, which states the inner diameter of the tire bead in milimeters, which is 559 for MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have 47-559 (read right now from one of my tires) to be equivalent of 26x47 (47mm wide, or roughly 1.9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T02:52:31.363" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T02:52:31.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9522" CreationDate="2012-05-20T21:21:27.343" Score="21" ViewCount="18310" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over time, my seat (butt) has been broken in by my saddle. I don't have a callus, and nothing obvious has changed. Physiologically, why doesn't riding cause seat soreness anymore?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flip-side, what does a saddle do to a less-experienced posterior? Is soreness caused by something as simple as bruising, or is there some other effect going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify, I am referring to muscle soreness caused by the saddle rather than soreness of the skin (e.g., saddle sores). The question is about why the soreness doesn't affect experienced cyclists who have adapted (over the course of many months or years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-24T21:32:04.283" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T11:32:43.933" Title="Why doesn't &quot;butt soreness&quot; affect serious cyclists?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9500" CreationDate="2012-05-21T01:55:50.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I've remarked several times, part of the &quot;break in&quot; involves pulling the hairs from your butt.  It's the hairs, all tangled together, that create most of the &quot;butt burn&quot; that you tend to experience on longer rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shaving your butt short-circuits this step and lets you tolerate long rides much better, with less &quot;break in&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are other factors -- you need to develop some &quot;inner calluses&quot; in the areas of most pressure.  And you also just need to develop your riding style and the strength in your arms and legs to enable you to remove some of the pressure from your butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T03:56:11.447" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T03:56:11.447" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9504" CreationDate="2012-05-21T02:10:25.720" Score="6" ViewCount="1666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding my bike and rear brake fell apart. As a result I lost the short wire of the cantilever brake, or at least that what it seems to be called. Where can I buy that short cable please ?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NTvon.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; Here is the same piece of the front brake:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4117" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T04:14:19.920" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T03:36:00.567" Title="Where to get the short wire of the cantilever brake?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9503" CreationDate="2012-05-21T03:15:50.040" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amazon or your local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a double ended (you can cut into one or two depending on length you need) on Amazon: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0047MDL8K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BRAKE PART STRADDLE CABLE ACTION ROAD 2-ENDS 110MM&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T03:35:58.197" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T03:35:58.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-21T08:22:44.397" Score="1" ViewCount="1118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an old 7 speed steel frame. I've ordered a track wheel with a spacing of 120mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RW5u6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My frame has correct drop outs for it, but does it have the correct spacing? If not, what are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the maximum amount of slack I can pick up by tighten my skewers? It's Reynolds 531 tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are spacers an option to pad out the excess space between the hub? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T16:30:31.977" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T16:30:31.977" Title="Will a track wheel work with the dropouts on my frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9505" CreationDate="2012-05-21T08:29:22.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Track frames use a 120mm rear dropout in most cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do have a horizontal dropout, but not a track dropout. It will work, but it is not ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear axle outside locknut distance on that frame is likely to be 127mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, it is not ideal to compress the dropouts that much, but given that it is an older, fatigued steel frame, it will likely work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case, you might induce cracks in the frame over time, due to stress on the welds from the compression, but it isn't likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T08:29:22.850" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9503" CreationDate="2012-05-21T13:27:26.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know an answer has been selected, but I wanted to post this here for future reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First - the common name for that type part is a &quot;straddle cable&quot; or a &quot;link wire&quot; depending on the variations or the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second - my primary source (after my LBS) for less-common parts, especially parts for older bikes or the bike-shaped objects the neighborhood kids want me to fix is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loosescrews.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Loose Screws&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loosescrews.com/Cable/Straddle-Cable-and-Link-Wire/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Straddle Cable&lt;/a&gt; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T03:36:00.567" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T03:36:00.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9481" CreationDate="2012-05-21T13:47:56.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any experience with hitch racks holding more than 4 bikes, but I do have an option that you may not have considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget the hitch rack and buy a small utility trailer. Most hardware stores sell &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/1195-lb-capacity-48-inch-x-96-inch-heavy-duty-foldable-utility-trailer-with-12-inch-wheels-90154.html&quot;&gt;trailer frames like this&lt;/a&gt; to which you can add a simple plywood box enclosure ore something more elaborate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the market for a 6 bike rack is fairly small, and the racks are expensive ($700+ US). I am sure you could buy a small utility trailer for much less, you would be able to haul at least 6 bikes plus equipment and you would have none of the drawbacks of a hitch rack like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Difficulty accessing the rear doors of the vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rattle, hum and road shake as the torque/lever forces shake the bikes on the rack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to go the trailer route you can use plans like these to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/goodies/TruckbedBikeRack.htm&quot;&gt;build your own PVC racks&lt;/a&gt; to keep the bikes upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T13:47:56.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-21T15:39:17.290" Score="3" ViewCount="4849" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a leg length difference of as much as 1cm due to a non-biking accident.  Adding padding to my shoe doesn't help. A friend recommended that I get pedal stacks (and a longer bolt) to my SPD-style pedals (or any other clipless pedal) for my shorter leg. I know it will affect the rotation, but it's better than wobbling on my bike with uneven hips because of the 1cm difference. Any advice? And where can I buy a pedal stack or any other equipment, so that my leg muscles are as even as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4120" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T17:21:46.937" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T19:59:33.780" Title="How can I adapt my pedals to account for a difference in leg length?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;spd&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-21T16:24:38.917" Score="5" ViewCount="10515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having issues with my pelvic bone when riding my bike. I have a very good bike, and the saddle is wide, but after riding 10 minutes my pelvic bone kills me to the point that I have to stop riding to rest it. I want to be able to ride more than this but am confused on which saddle to purchase. Some sites tell you to use a narrow seat, and others say a wide seat. What type of saddle should I look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4121" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T20:32:50.513" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T06:02:13.033" Title="What type of saddle doesn't hurt the pelvic bone?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9510" CreationDate="2012-05-21T16:31:38.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmm...I would head to your LBS and check your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/specs/spec.jsp?speccode=bodygeometrysaddles&amp;amp;tablewidth=400&amp;amp;cellwidth=350&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sit bones&lt;/a&gt; to make sure your saddle is big enough. Most shops have a measuring device that allows to see where your sit bones are.  I think investing some time, money into your saddle is very important.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently had to change my saddle and went with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=64280&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Romin&lt;/a&gt; as the saddle was too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T16:31:38.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-21T17:10:01.807" Score="11" ViewCount="17842" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are currently using KMC Z51RB rust resistant chains on our bikes, a competitor has started to use stainless steel chains.  Does anyone know the advantages and disadvantages of using stainless steel and should we be thinking of changing to SS too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4124" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T10:06:22.110" Title="Are there any disadvantages to running a stainless steel bike chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9510" CreationDate="2012-05-21T18:09:32.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saddle comfort can be tough to get just right and is very individual. You might just have to try a few saddles out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has a lot of great information about saddle comfort here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you just getting back on a bike after not having ridden for a while? Your backside has to get used to a saddle. If you haven't ridden in a while, do some short (1 or 2 mile) rides and slowly increase the distance. Try that before you try replacing the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those short rides in the saddle won't just help your backside break into the seat, they'll help get your riding strength up, so that more of your weight is on your feet and less on your pelvis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How wide or narrow a saddle depends on your anatomy, your flexibility, your riding posture and your riding style. Basically you want the saddle as wide as you need it to be, but no more. Any extra width is likely to lead to chafing or soreness from the saddle pushing into things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pelvis has two knobs at the back of a triangle with the point forward (essentially). Sitting down on a stool or chair, you tend to have your weight on those knobs. If you're sitting with your lower back fairly straight, you'll want a saddle that supports those two knobs, probably with a bit of padding right there. If you have your pelvis rotated forward so that you're not sitting on those knobs and are instead resting your weight on part of that triangle, you'll want a narrower saddle. You want just enough that whichever pelvic structure you're sitting on is on the saddle, with fairly little saddle to the sides of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't just go for the saddle with the most padding. A lot of people like a little padding on their saddle, but too much padding will just sort of squeeze into all the other sensitive tissues down there, which can be uncomfortable and cause nerve pinching or circulation issues. Get a saddle with just enough padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T18:09:32.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9449" CreationDate="2012-05-21T23:44:42.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're always close enough to call help when you have serious mechanical trouble, then a racing bike will make you lighter and faster, but the speed advantages that racers realize often come from wrapping themselves around uncomfortably small frames on tires that require more focus on descents with components that have a lower mean time to failure for their price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with taking a day to do an English century as long as you enjoy it.  In my late 20's, my extended tour rate for alpine topography was about 80 miles (128 km) a day on a half-loaded (no tent) touring bike with occasional days in the 100-120 mile (160-200 km) range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would've gone faster on an unloaded racing bike, but I wouldn't have been able to choose my own course for fear of being stranded without spare parts in foreign lands.  And every kilo in weight I add to the bike is a kilo less I way at the end of the summer, and a touring bike is useful during the off season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can afford it, try a fast bike so you can talk trash with your buddies on short aggressive rides, but for comfortable riding and peace of mind, a little extra weight for durable components, a comfortable saddle, a fitting frame, and spares is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I may be overboard.  For my commute, I carry panniers, a laptop, tools and raingear that weigh in at 49.6 lbs (22.5 kg) so my frame material and tire width aren't what slows me down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T23:53:05.707" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T23:53:05.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9509" CreationDate="2012-05-22T14:49:50.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be very careful about making leg length adjustments on your bike. There are several red flags about this. All of which you may be aware of or may not. 1st, a leg length difference is very difficult to diagnose, ecept with an experienced physio, or an X-Ray/MRI. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most good physios will send you for an X-ray if they suspect a leg length difference is causing you an issue. 2nd, The body will naturally compensate for up to a 2cm leg length difference with pelvic tilt, and while that is less helpful on the bike, you don't automatically need to add stack height if you have a leg length difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last, a 1cm difference in length does not mean a 1cm compensation, even if you do need to compensate. It is something that needs to be looked at professionally, and any compensation needs to be worked in slowly. Generally, adjustments in the 2mm range in one go are considered appropriate. More than that can(not always, but quite often) cause bigger issues than they solve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, be careful what you do, go see a professional medical bike fitter, preferably a physio with extensive bike fitting experience, and follow their instructions. Oh, and be prepared to pay for the privilege, while realizing that it will take time to sort you out properly. There is no magic bullet fix here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bch.org/sportsmedicine/bio-andy-pruitt.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boulder Center for Sports Medicine&lt;/a&gt;. They specialize in issues of exactly this type, and they designed most of the equipment to diagnose and correct them. Like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bouldersportsmedicine.org/3dnon-3dbikefitting.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3D bike fitting camera systems&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T14:49:50.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3874" CreationDate="2012-05-22T14:51:26.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar clicking on my pivot, drives me crazy, the bike mechanic told me their was some issue with the bottom bracket rubbing. I am going to take it back and have it fixed..i just wont ride like this..it is annoying the hek out.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4129" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T14:51:26.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8740" CreationDate="2012-05-22T16:08:01.123" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tyres.html#wear&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon talks about replacing tyres&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#wear&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;tires&amp;quot; for Americans&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cyclists waste money replacing perfectly functional tyres simply because they're old, or may have discolored sidewalls. If you just want new tyres because the old ones look grotty, it's your money, but if you are mainly concerned with safety/function, there are only two reasons for replacing old tyres:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the tread is worn so thin that you start getting a lot of flats from small pieces of glass and the like, or the fabric shows through the rubber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the tyre's fabric has been damaged, so that the tyre has a lumpy, irregular appearance somewhere, or the tube bulges through the tyre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cracks in the tread are harmless. Small punctures in the tyre such as are typically caused by nails, tacks, thorns or glass slivers are also harmless to the tyre, since the tyre doesn't need to be air-tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T16:08:01.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9500" CreationDate="2012-05-22T17:05:20.317" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's my theory based on things that do happen in other areas of physical existence that I think are similar.  That soreness is actually just discomfort from interrupted flows of vascular systems. You can see similar effects from sitting Japanese style on the floor on your knees. If you keep doing it, eventually your body gets used to the new position, begins flowing elsewhere to compensate, and the soreness is relieved as you have no systems suffering from the lack of flows. Interestingly, this is less prevalent in very young children, who are both incredibly flexible, and do not have established paths of preference for blood. A lot of pains we have come this way, especially if you're like me and sit around most of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually thought about this when cuddling with the wife last night because of your question.  It's probably the same thing that causes my arm discomfort as she lays on it, but I never get used to it because after a brief while of it becoming annoying I usually shift out of it.  The same thing happens to a lot of traditional martial arts students.  They don't sit in seiza for very long, so they never have to get used to it.  I imagine the same thing would happen if you only biked for 10-15 minutes instead of forcing yourself to endure it for a while and acclimating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4132" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T17:05:20.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9500" CreationDate="2012-05-22T20:30:32.917" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;When seated on the saddle, your weight is primarily supported (or should be) at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuberosity_of_the_ischium&quot;&gt;ischial tuberosities&lt;/a&gt; which are commonly known as the &quot;sit bones&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoted from Wikipedia: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When sitting, the weight is frequently placed upon the ischial tuberosity.[2] The gluteus maximus covers it in the upright posture, but leaves it free in the seated position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, there is very little sub-cutaneous fat or muscle tissue covering the sit bones while sitting on a bicycle saddle and thus little &quot;padding&quot; between the skin and bone. So, when you go through periods of not riding or are new to riding, that region is not adapted to compression and impact from the saddle. After riding for a while, the bone, tendons, and muscle in that region adapts by strengthening in that region, and no doubt vascular and nerve changes occur as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in the case of an inexperienced cyclist or one getting back into cycling, is that micro-damage occurs to the bone, muscle, tendons and other tissue in the area. The micro-damage leads to inflammation and thus pain/soreness. At that point, the the tissues begin to repair and strengthen. The bone is thicker and stronger, the muscles/tendons are stronger, nerves are adapted to the stresses, new blood vessels, etc. Once those tissues have remodeled and healed, there is no more soreness. (Actually, the process can happen again if one goes say, riding for 3 hours to riding for 6 hours, but usually won't be as bad the second time around.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty much like any other area of the body that goes through the adaptations from not being exercised to being exercised. So, one gets sore at first, but as muscle/skeletal tissue adapts, one is not sore later on. To some degree, the issue is similar a bruise, but it's much more like the muscular/skeletal adaptations that occurs from exercise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-05-25T18:15:39.067" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T18:15:39.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9527" CreationDate="2012-05-22T21:35:01.330" Score="8" ViewCount="10637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that if handlebar tape is grimy, torn, or peeling, it should be replaced. How long should I expect handlebar tape to last before it needs to be replaced? How often do most cyclists replace handlebar tape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T02:44:16.477" Title="How long should I expect handlebar tape to last?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5814" CreationDate="2012-05-22T23:53:13.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For numbness, the first thing to check is whether you are putting weight on the bars at all.  You should position yourself so that your weight is over your pedals and you're comfortable hovering your hands over the bars for some time.  Since that's how I tend to ride, I'm skeptical that tape makes much difference unless you're on technical terrain or someone like a tandem-stoker who can't see bumps coming easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixing posture got rid of most of my hand numbness but even after that I still had hand numbness that was making long mountain descents kind of hairy because my hands would get too numb for me to finely control the brake levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got Campy Record Carbon brake levers and that really helped.  Carbon doesn't conduct as much heat, so they don't get cold, so I can park my hands over the brakes without them getting numb while still wearing half-gloves that don't make me sweat and fumble with the breaks in the valleys.  A &lt;a href=&quot;http://piaw.blogspot.com/2007/04/review-campagnolo-carbon-record-brake.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;buddy of mine&lt;/a&gt; had the same reaction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I used them over the next 5 years, their value really grew on me (and it's not because of the weight). First of all, they never get cold. Carbon fiber is an insulator, not a conductor, so on cold mornings where metal brake levers would have frozen my fingers to the lever, they remain finger-temperature and keep my fingers happy. Cold hands are one of the most miserable things to experience, and during my 2005 tour of the alps, there were a few days where I wish I had them on my touring bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, these levers have a quick-release built into the lever. Together with Shimano long reach brake calipers, you end up with sufficient throw in both quick releases to clear 700x32mm tires! This is excellent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the last 5 years have proven that they are sturdy enough for touring and heavy-duty use. Any levers that have to frequently stop a tandem on major mountain descents are definitely strong enough for any kind of use on a single bike, be it loaded touring, commuting, or just day riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like these levers so much that I'm putting my money where my mouth is: I'm retiring my metal brake levers on my touring bike and replacing them with these. Highly recommended!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're expensive though, so I would experiment with other things first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T23:58:39.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9523" CreationDate="2012-05-23T01:47:42.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Handlebar tape lasts about 20 years on the typical bike.  Of course, the typical bike is ridden 200 miles in the first 5 years and 200 more miles in the next 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handlebar tape succumbs to two main problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scraping/tearing, when the bike falls down, is laid down, or lays against, say, a brick wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Twisting/sliding from the pressure of your hands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem may be minor or may be major, depending on how you ride, how you rack/store your bike, etc.  The second problem is somewhat more of a constant, but is variable depending on your riding style (more aggressive will generally be more stressful on the tape) and the quality of the tape and the wrapping job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, you just replace it when it needs replacing, or when you can't stand the look of the stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, as I've said before, I just use a couple of layers of hockey tape.  It is easily installed, durable, works better when wet/sweaty, and can be easily repaired if scraped/torn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T01:47:42.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9512" CreationDate="2012-05-23T02:14:43.983" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question doesn't clearly state your criteria in choosing a chain except that your competitors are using stainless steel and you use an alternative rust resistant chain, so I'll answer generally on the assumption that corrosion resistance is the main criteria.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know there are no bicycle chains that are completely stainless steel.&#xA;You will note on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.connexchain.com/en/product/connex-10sx.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Connex Wipperman stainless steel chains&lt;/a&gt; that only the inner links are stainless steel, so you won't get complete rust or corrosion resistance by using them. You will still need to lubricate and clean the chain to avoid corrosion and increase the chain's life.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The stainless steel in those chains may give you longer wear, with a slight weight penalty as seen in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/review-chains/wippermann-10s1-stainless-steel-10-speed-chain_779.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this review&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have noticed from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.connexchain.com/en/product/connex-10sx.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Connex page&lt;/a&gt; that I linked to before, that there are a number of other corrosion resistance mechanisms including nickel and brass coatings. Other manufacturers also have a variety of means of corrosion resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage of stainless steel would probably be the expense and possibly a slight weight penalty, although the review I linked to suggests the longer life will offset the expense for their purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall though, there is no zero maintenance bicycle chain that I know of that is completely rust proof and maintenance free. Only a belt-drive bicycle transmission will not require lubrication and will not rust and it is claimed they will not stretch. Yet there are other issues with belt-drives, which you can research separately to this question if you are interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T23:52:20.007" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T23:52:20.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9523" CreationDate="2012-05-23T02:44:16.477" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anywhere from a month or two to years and years; how long handlebar tape lasts depends on too many factors to really answer this with a number. Of course, how often you cycle is a factor, but how good the tape is and how well it's applied also makes a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, gel tape is notorious for wearing quickly, as the gel gets pushed away from where you lean your hands. Good-quality cork tape without a lot of padding can be kept around nearly forever, unless you rip it or it starts to stink. Tape that's wrapped &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; too tightly can develop rips and cracks. And if you have cables routed under your tape, that &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; subtly move the tape around a little bit as you shift, causing you to need to rewrap or replace more often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much weight you put on the bars, how tightly (or loosely) you wind the tape, how good the tape is - all these will change how long it'll take until you have to change the tape or simply rewrap it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that's worth noting is that if you're wearing through the tape itself, you're probably putting too much weight on your hands or gripping the bars far too tightly. And cork or plastic bar tape that simply comes loose over time can be rewound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T02:44:16.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2012-05-23T05:24:48.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So many different way to heal, I'm noticing when I cover n let nature take its course I'm watching my facial burn heal more each day. It is irritating having to tape up my face tho so I am off in search of duoderm or something that will allow my face to be free of sticky tape while avoiding scarring. Definitely keep your wound covered. My sister who is a dr without the degree swears I'm going to get infection by the bandages, but she is being proven wrong. I have photographed the wound each day and see a noticeably different wound each day that passes. I cannot wait til it's gone tho, but realize time is of the essence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4133" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T05:24:48.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-23T07:23:29.320" Score="13" ViewCount="5969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fairly new to cycling and have a road bike which I am really enjoying but I cannot get comfortable in the saddle. Not so much bum bones, but lady bits! Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4134" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T17:21:44.143" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:47:55.833" Title="What can women do to get comfortable in the saddle?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9529" CreationDate="2012-05-23T07:44:24.140" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saddles can be very specific to the individual...but some general advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to find a local bike shop that will let you test ride different&#xA;saddles. Five minutes on a trainer is not enough, a good bike shop&#xA;will let you take a saddle on a real ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talk with others that have similar biking style. A great mountain&#xA;bike saddle does not always make a great road saddle. A bit of an angle change or moving the saddle a bit forward or backward can have a big effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try some saddles that are &quot;lady specific&quot; and those that others say&#xA;work well for the lady bits. I've heard good things about the Selle&#xA;Italia Lady Diva and the saddles from Adamo (the Adamo's are not 'lady specific' but the cutout seems to have similar effect).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you may want to invest in some decent bike shorts and a good anti-chafe creme (I like 'Blue Steel Sports').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the &quot;issues with the tissues&quot; will fade as you spend more time on the bike, but some won't unless you get a saddle that works for you. Don't settle...try different saddles until you find something that works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T07:44:24.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2012-05-23T11:47:11.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I've found, after the first 24 hours or so when the wound is oozing, is that leaving it uncovered but coating it with ointment works best.  (Preferably use an antibiotic ointment, but plain old petrolatum is OK.)  If the wound is in a place where it might get bumped, or you consider it terribly unsightly (though how can a biking wound be other than a badge to wear proudly?) then you can lightly cover with gauze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ointment holds in the moisture, which is what you need most to promote healing.  And antibiotic ointments have been shown to increase the speed of healing over non-antibiotic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T11:47:11.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9533" CreationDate="2012-05-23T16:07:00.523" Score="4" ViewCount="18637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed my handlebar stem to an angle-adjustable variety and now there is a little bit of play in the bar coming up from the front suspension through the frame, onto which that stem is bolted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried pushing down to compress everything up when fitting the stem, but I can't seem to get rid of the play.  Any ideas what I should be doing to get rid of the play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ldXvz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic showing bar coming up from suspension through frame&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3679" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T22:10:52.300" Title="How do I prevent play in the steering post?" Tags="&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9532" CreationDate="2012-05-23T17:06:05.980" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your headset is not adjusted.  Your stem cap is used to adjust this.  Specifically, the more you tighten the stem cap, the tighter the bearings will get, and the less play you will feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html#threadless&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's article on adjust headsets&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ITNVA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My process for checking headset adjustment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the headset adjust:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab the front brake with your left hand, and grab the interface between the frame and the top of the headset with the other.  This is the &quot;No Wrench Flats&quot; in the image above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rock the bike back and forth with the brake on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can feel the top of the headset moving independently from the head tube, it probably needs to be tightened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick the front end of the bike up by the top tube, and let the handle bars/front wheel/fork &quot;flop&quot; from side to side.  If they flop around loosely and don't bind up, you haven't over-tightened the bearings. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the headset is out of adjust:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crack loose the stem Pinch Bolts.  Don't take the stem off, just get it loose enough to slide around.  When locked down, the stem will hold everything together, so we can't adjust anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the stem cap bolt (labeled as &quot;Top Cap&quot; in the images above) by about a quarter turn each adjustment and then check the headset again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have over-tightened, back it off by an eighth turn and check again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once everything is adjusted, line up the stem with the front wheel and lock back down the Pinch Bolts.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give it one more quick check (nothing &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; have changed, but it takes two seconds, so why not?).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Best part:  Test ride!  See how she feels.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've gone through the process a few times, it gets to be very quick.  I usually check my headset ever week when I do a quick once-over of the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T17:06:05.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9538" CreationDate="2012-05-24T06:07:51.220" Score="5" ViewCount="3721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to a number of reasons, I would like to keep my freewheel at all costs (It's a Sachs freewheel, the bike has all sorts of more 'vintage' components, and they're hard to come by). From reading all the related questions, it seemed the solution would be a new chain, and the teeth certainly don't look worn enough (to me at least) to warrant the freewheel needing replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with both a brand new 7/8 speed chain, and the older slightly worn chain (0.140 in elongation over 12 links), the chain rides up as shown on the teeth when torque is applied. It doesn't happen in the highest gears, or when it's upside down and I'm adjusting derailleurs. The chain is also not touching any adjacent gears due to derailleur misadjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDIn4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain on Freewheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated, I will try ANY reasonable options before replacing the freewheel. I've certainly ridden more worn out cogs without this problem. Should I just try a different new chain? Or is this more seriously worn than I judge it to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional Pictures added on request:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tzz3a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain Riding Up&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r7rkG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Backed off&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mkxa2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Whole Bicycle&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5mjpV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From underneath&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T03:54:26.563" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T03:54:26.563" Title="Why is my chain riding up and skipping teeth on the freewheel?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9534" CreationDate="2012-05-24T06:16:17.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need better pictures to get a clear idea as to what is going on here, but assuming that the chain tension is good and the derailleur spring is okay, I'd check to make sure your derailleur hanger is straight. Especially on older derailleurs, this can allow the chain to be received by the cogs at an angle whereby the cog above and/or cog below can 'trap' the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking the hanger is easiest with the right tool, it's a bit pricey ($60 - search on &quot;Park Tool Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge - DAG-2&quot;) so best bet would be to hit your local bike shop and have them lend a hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T06:16:17.230" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9543" CreationDate="2012-05-24T08:25:29.600" Score="12" ViewCount="16531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my bike (GT Avalanche 1) for maybe four or five years now.  I've changed the pads once, removed and cleaned all parts on the bike a few times now, but I've never touched the brake fluid.  Does this need to be changed, and if so, why and how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't honestly say whether performance has deteriorated over time - they still stop the bike and I don't notice any fade - I'm just curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes are Tektro Auriga Comp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3679" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T18:42:43.437" Title="Do I need to replace hydraulic fluid in my brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9529" CreationDate="2012-05-24T10:22:50.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For men there can be some issue about the compression of tissue, often brought on by mis-sized saddle. Maybe the advice &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9391/4098&quot;&gt;from another post&lt;/a&gt; can help with your issues as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4098" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T10:22:50.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9534" CreationDate="2012-05-24T11:50:29.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smallest cog appears to be rather badly worn (hard to say for sure without a shot from the side) and the second smallest is sorta worn, but otherwise the cluster doesn't appear to be very worn at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do note that in your shots you have the front on the granny and the rear on the small cog, meaning that your chain tension is very low.  One generally should not ride in this configuration, of course, but shift to a larger ring when near the small end of the cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't tell if the hanger or derailer is bent -- it kinda seems to be in the bottom shot, but from that angle it's hard to tell.  Look straight down at the derailer and cluster, and then straight on from the back, and make sure everything is parallel.  (A bike shop has the tools to check this, but you can often see a lot by just looking.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T11:50:29.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9536" CreationDate="2012-05-24T17:12:55.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your lines dont leak, you should be set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contamination of brake fluid (bikes and cars actually) is caused by exposure to air and dirt. Sealed lines should be good for 5 years easy,if not longer. I would only replace if the lines got a crack or cut in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because bike brakes have a very solid seal, and no real massive reservoir, they are less prone to contamination then a car. Since cars have a large reservoir usually under a simple pop top or screw cap with a light seal, they see a bit more dirt and air in the fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T17:12:55.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9433" CreationDate="2012-05-24T17:17:16.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont think thats IN the bottom bracket. Its too sharp and hollow sounding. Like something plastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF you remove the chain, and examine the cables and crank arms, i suspect you will find something else. Broken plastic bushing, some sort of guard, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing would be to remove the cranks. These are new cranks, and will be a single bolt on the non drive side. Non drive side will come off, and the drive side will slide out with the crank spline / shaft. Now you can inspect both sides of the sealed bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T17:17:16.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9544" CreationDate="2012-05-24T22:45:28.637" Score="3" ViewCount="4266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently rebuilt my road bike on a second-hand &lt;a href=&quot;http://sevencycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seven Cycles&lt;/a&gt; Alaris titanium frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a fairly standard hydrophobic grease throughout but I have been told I should use a titanium-specific grease. The bottom bracket is the only place that I can think of with threading in the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing as a titanium-specific grease? Any advice on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3581" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T03:36:33.257" Title="Is there a specific grease for titanium frames?" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;titanium&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9536" CreationDate="2012-05-25T03:32:28.473" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mineral oil based Hydraulic fluid will build up water condensation in the hoses over time. How much time depends on a lot of factors, like humidity, temperature, bike storage conditions, and similar things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 5 years, I would expect that the level of contamination would be high enough to be noticeable, and that the fluid should be replaced. The specific instructions for that brake are found &lt;a href=&quot;http://tektro.com/_english/03_support/download.php?f=down01327024043.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T03:32:28.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9542" CreationDate="2012-05-25T03:36:33.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For titanium frames, it is best to use a copper paste grease. You need to do so anywhere there is metal on metal contact, especially if it is aluminum to titanium contact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal grease is not enough to prevent the accelerated oxidation and bonding that occurs between totanium and other metals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T03:36:33.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9433" CreationDate="2012-05-25T04:23:16.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it happening only when you pedal backwards or forwards too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I note you have a small spoke guard on the back wheel.  Take a close look at that.  It might be cracked and when you back pedal the freewheel teeth might be catching on it.  It seems way to loud and plastic like to be a crank issue but then again I'm not there.  All my crank issues have had a much more solid clunk sound and were not nearly as loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T00:38:03.757" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T00:38:03.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-25T12:47:06.560" Score="0" ViewCount="888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an entry-level hybrid bike to ride on weekends. My budget is ~£230, I been looking on ebay, amazon, halfords..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those two look good to me for the moment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORME-BRUTE-MENS-URBAN-HYBRID-COMMUTER-BIKE-MATTE-BLACK-RRP-399-99-/330713314847?pt=UK_Bikes_GL&amp;amp;var=&amp;amp;hash=item7dbe180472#ht_2751wt_1195&amp;amp;clk_rvr_id=346518406268&amp;amp;afsrc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forme Brute from Ebay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Viking-Urban-Dimension-Gents-Hybrid/dp/B004VF0M7Q/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1337891641&amp;amp;sr=8-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Viking from Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my knowledge about bikes is limited, so any suggestion would be appreciated.&#xA;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4147" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T13:46:48.303" Title="Hybrid recommendation (tight budget)" Tags="&lt;bike-selection&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9549" CreationDate="2012-05-25T15:11:58.447" Score="2" ViewCount="4052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Tektro Auriga Sub disc brakes and the pads need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only pads for this make I could find online were discontinued. Do I need to get the same make, and if not how do I know they'll fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brake pads looks like a minefield. There are so many makes and types. Are there any general things you need to look out for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2568" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-11-29T19:00:58.280" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T19:00:58.280" Title="Which disc brake pads do I need for Tektro Auriga?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9546" CreationDate="2012-05-25T16:03:16.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't overthink it.  For casual weekend riding a 40-year-old Huffy will be quite serviceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important, if you possibly can, to actually ride the bike you're thinking of buying, to check it for fit and comfort and to get an up-close feel for &quot;fit and finish&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T16:03:16.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9547" CreationDate="2012-05-25T16:44:39.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not an answer you want to hear, but Tektro parts are very sparse because they are entry level, and low budget. No one really makes parts for them other than tektro. So if its discontinued you may see if a bike shop can make something else fit, but online you will likely not find a match by visual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avid or hayes make brakes that are more universally supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T16:44:39.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9560" CreationDate="2012-05-25T22:28:57.270" Score="0" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get some quality prescription sunglasses for cycling. Can anyone make some suggestions on a brand they like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-26T06:41:01.533" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T12:43:51.473" Title="Prescription Sunglasses for Cyclists" Tags="&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-04T15:46:07.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9500" CreationDate="2012-05-25T23:56:26.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not directly to the point of the question, but it should be pointed out that, among other things, &quot;serious&quot; cyclists &quot;self-select&quot;: If a person is genetically inclined to have a sorer than normal butt, they're less likely to stick to cycling and more apt to engage in some other sport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T23:56:26.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4390" CreationDate="2012-05-26T00:39:58.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spare tube($2). Tire levers($5), Minipump (don't be skimping on this, get a good brand like Topeak but still wont cost much, $40). This is really all I take with me on a ride (aside from my wallet and my phone). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't bother with patching tires. Its annoying to others when you're riding with them and you flat and have to go patch a tire. Just replace it with a spare. At home you'll need a standing pump (a big one, the Minipump is just to get home, you could get the SKS Rennkompressor, this one is often recommended).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less essential: indoor trainer. The last I can credit for a lot of my cycling improvement as a time-pressed student. I have a Tacx Fortius mp(800 euro for me, it would be more expensive in the States). Best money I ever spent on cycling aside from the bike ofc. Coaches recommend this too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a cycling computer, but that was the worst money I ever spent on cycling (400 euro). The chest-band does not help breathing and the speed/cadence measurement is unreliable. I don't use it anymore. I think its only useful when you have a power meter (but that's rather an expensive proposition). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really recommend lights. Cycling after dark is no fun. Maybe you'll ride the last 20 minutes returning home from a group ride in the dark every so often. You could get really cheap lights ($5) you can easily hang under your handlebar and saddle for that, I suppose. Anything else is overkill. Attaching a light to your bike just screams 'commuter'. That's fine when you're riding by yourself and there are no others around. but when your training partners are looking like a peleton (including shirts, shaved legs, the works), you'll think: if I had not attached that light, I'll be more aero. And you'll remove them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else... a rain or windjacket is not a bad idea (it needs to fit in one of the pockets in your jersey easily). Mine has just wind protection on the front. Cost me 20 euro. If you're a bit mad you'll be riding outside when it's cold too. Then you'll maybe like a winter jacket (can get maddeningly expensive or cheap. My 20 euro thing serves well enough). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have cash left after this, go make someone else happy with it, as you won't be needing it :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4154" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T00:18:24.233" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T00:18:24.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9226" CreationDate="2012-05-26T00:58:38.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;its appropriate. i do spinning every winter. great training, really pushes me. you'll do fine as long as its not a competitive event and you can ride your own pace. 50-70 miles is not that long if you're on a racing bike. as others said: dont expect it to be too comfortable tho. cycling is an endurance sport, after all. I'd say do some riding too. it's almost summer in the northern half of the world. perfect time for some relaxed riding. if you dont like that, then why even bother going to the event? if you do like it, then youll probably enjoy it more than sweating in some overheated gym class. its also good (pleasant and safe) to be familiar with your bike and riding, cornering etc when you ride in big groups. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4154" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T00:58:38.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2479" CreationDate="2012-05-26T01:15:18.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go to the gym every two days or so and just do every exercise which included the legs, and for the back also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single sets with lots of reps on most (50) and more on one (leg press, 200 reps). Took me 2 hours to finish the circuit twice. Extremely intense, tiring, but satisfying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It improved my sprinting and especially my climbing. This is not often recommended by trainers, but I'd say it's better than just aping the other gym attendants who have almost opposite goals (i.e. enlarging the amount of upper body muscle mass with the least amount of sweat). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4154" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T00:16:59.330" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:16:59.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2012-05-26T01:38:33.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should get as light a bike as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They tend to go faster. When you go fast, cycling is more fun. When it's fun, you will do it more. When you do it more, you get fit faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also more expensive to get a light bike. When people spend lots of money, they tend to use their bikes more. And you'll look so much more awesome when you get fit if you have an awesome bike. That's theory. The practice is that you'll buy something less spectacular and save some cash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The math formula somewhere is nice and very correct, but you know what it really says: if you have a light bike and do the same amount of work as someone with a heavy bike, you'll fly past him and humiliate him with your awesome climbing powers. If that's not a reason to get on that awesome carbon fibre wonder (and get very fit), I don't know what is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4154" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T00:24:52.963" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:24:52.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9225" CreationDate="2012-05-26T02:02:32.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you should take a day of rest before the event to ensure you will be at your absolute best. this is not necessary if you do not need to be your best. the day before that, not too intense. the thing is, a week is a very long time for your body. you can recover from most things.&#xA;just dont do any 100 mile maximum intensity monster rides in the mountains. i once heard from a female rider that she did not recover from such in an entire week (a high protein diet was to blame for that, but still). most recover better than that, but better safe than sorry, right? youll be fine whatever you do. &#xA;if i was taking it really seriously, i'd do short intensive rides for the rest of the week. thats because i did some of my fastest riding after such a prep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4154" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T02:02:32.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6087" CreationDate="2012-05-26T02:11:38.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure whether your commute is the right time for training, but why not time trial? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like a good distance for it. You could clock yourself everyday and measure progress that way. I suppose it's dangerous, painful and you'll be sweating when you arrive, but that's what effective training does for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intervals are good too, as long as you don't rest (i.e. ride an easy pace) more than you ride at maximum pace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4154" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T22:56:53.613" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T22:56:53.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8812" CreationDate="2012-05-26T02:23:45.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike is not a whole body gym. You could do sprints standing in extreme gears, accelerating as fast as possible. Sprinters tend to have developed upper bodies. They don't develop them on the bike, but they use them enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4154" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T03:24:27.573" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T03:24:27.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9551" CreationDate="2012-05-26T02:49:19.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love my Oakley Fives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frames are relatively cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're very light and comfortable to ride in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They provide good coverage and keep out dust/grime and breeze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The arms are designed to detach when under pressure rather than break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think they look good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have transition lenses and they are fantastic. I never have to worry about changing lenses or having the wrong tint. I just chuck them on and go and they're always spot on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0e67T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T02:49:19.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2012-05-26T03:04:03.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Run training would prepare you for the impacts. If you don't have any hills handy, you could try running 15 minutes every day for 2 months. That was enough to get me through a mountaineering camp of 7 days. Lots of mountaineers run when there are no mountains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how ones legs can hurt after a downhill walk. I've done mountain walking since I was very young, so I guess I should know this. The trick is basically this: the faster you go down, the less they will hurt from acting as brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess you could practice that if you have some steep hills in your area (yeah, that's possibly dangerous. So is cycling). If you have to be slow, then increasing steps per meter is possible too. If the shocks are less big, your thighs will hurt less. Watch your technique. The fact your legs hurt is good. Keep the knees bent, never let those catch the blows. You could think of it as letting your feet become like a wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4154" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T00:13:50.893" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:13:50.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9568" CreationDate="2012-05-26T07:37:38.900" Score="10" ViewCount="1016" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a bike for about half an hour of use a day in town. Don't have room in my flat so it will be a folding bike, and it has to cost less than £200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider buying &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Reflex-Easy-Street-Unisex-Folding/dp/B004H4IPX4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1337811586&amp;amp;sr=8-5&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a good choice, or are there better options in the same price range ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4139" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-05-27T13:28:06.577" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T16:31:55.543" Title="Need advice on choosing the right folding bike" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7245" CreationDate="2012-05-26T07:54:18.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ski gear.  water prof, light weight, bright colors, and WARM.  my BURTON jacket even has a pocket made for an i-pod, and loops for headphone wires. now how cool is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4155" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T07:54:18.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9551" CreationDate="2012-05-26T13:43:26.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that almost every Spy sunglass model can be made into an Rx lens. No insert, which i really like since inserts can be too close to my eyes, or fog too quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00295XHCW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spy Logan&lt;/a&gt; which is a full wrap. The breathe well, and fit by large head. They are pretty affordable, and took the prescription well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T13:43:26.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-26T17:12:57.710" Score="2" ViewCount="7306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride these pedals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NqH8G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank Brothers eggbeater pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which came with these cleats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xFI5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stock crank brothers eggbeater cleat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I see that Crank Brothers are selling their &quot;Premium&quot; cleat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eNNez.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm ready to replace my cleats. Is the premium cleat compatible with my pedal, or do I need to stick to the earlier style? Do the 'wings' on the original cleat offer something that I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T21:54:01.087" Title="Which Crank Brothers cleat do I need?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-26T21:10:51.293" Score="2" ViewCount="1235" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the last 6 months I have been getting really bad noises, creaks, clunks, etc coming from somewhere around the spindle connecting to the crankshaft. Every time I put pressure down on the left hand pedal, either it or the spindle attaching to the pedal creaks, clunks real loud and then the pedal works itself loose. I have tightened it up every time and after a couple of days it becomes loose and almost falls off again. Can anyone help explain why and how I may fix it myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry actually being a bit clearer it is the square taper crank arm that comes away from the spindle. The pedal actually is fine. The bike is an Dawes XC 2.2 and the crank arm has &quot;Truvativ&quot; Powered by SRAM on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4158" LastEditorUserId="4158" LastEditDate="2012-05-27T11:20:47.837" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:52:40.627" Title="Noise from crankshaft spindle and then the pedal falls off" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9562" CreationDate="2012-05-26T22:22:31.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There no bike on the market that is very good at folding &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; also very good at “biking”!  So you have to decide if you care most about the folding or how well it works as a bike.   For a bike to fold into a small space it must have small wheels.  Small wheels are never as good a ride as full sized wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Brompton is consider to be one of the best folders about if you care mostly about the “folding” side of the equation, however it costs a lot more than £200 unless you get a very good deal on a 2nd hand one.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For £200 I think you will have to look on the 2nd hard market for anything good.&#xA;However even a “bike shape object” is better than walking or sitting in a road jam!  The bike you have linked to I would put in this category, check you are happy with its weight if you have stairs to need to take it up.    You will also not be able to take it on most public transport as it does not fold small enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T22:22:31.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9566" CreationDate="2012-05-26T23:31:06.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cleats and pedals I have look just like yours, except more used.&#xA;I love them.  I've used egg beaters on all my bikes for the last 5 years or so.  They shed dirt, they're easy and quiet to clip in and out, and except for one broken spring on an older pair, really reliable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7QGtG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(FYI, some of the older eggbeaters didn't have wrench flats.  The ones in your picture do, but check before buying.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-05-26T23:31:06.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-27T00:56:20.350" Score="2" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a male, 44, &quot;fast&quot; (?) recreational cyclist, who has been doing week long -- mostly 50 to 80 miles/day -- tours for about 15 years.  While I love touring, I have come to dread the aftermath . . . namely, that for at least 6 weeks following the tour, I ride and feel like a, uh, piece of crap, for lack of a cleaner phrase.  Can't fully explain it.  Sort of like I'm running on fumes, or with one less cylinder.  Power output could be up to 15-20% less for a given hard effort, or so it seems.  I ride pretty well during the tour.  I take a week of recovery rides following it.  Seem to still feel OK then, its the second week that it really hits me.  I keep hearing how a tour -- or stage race -- will bring one's fitness &quot;to a whole new level,&quot; etc.  All these years, and I have yet to experience anything close to that!  So, any ideas, suggestions, etc.?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Only things I can think of:  perhaps since I'm not doing hard intervals during the tour, I'm stating to lose fitness then? (My tours are usually in mountainous areas, so its not that I'm just riding easy, but I try to keep my pace on the climbs under control.) The recovery week following then exacerbates that loss?  Also, I'm a mailman who has to walk 7 - 8 miles/day up God-only knows how many hills and steps, which I guess makes getting a &quot;full recovery&quot; pretty much impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3675" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T03:47:38.253" Title="Why do I ride so lousy after a tour?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9562" CreationDate="2012-05-27T01:39:26.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No first-hand knowledge, but I've read that the Brompton and Bike Friday are decent folders.  Many others (eg, Citizen) are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at all possible, ride before you buy.  Many folders force you into an awkward posture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T01:39:26.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9562" CreationDate="2012-05-27T01:40:19.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with a Dahon myself such as this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/dahon-eco-c7-2012/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dahon Eco&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dahon has been around for a long time and is well known for manufacturing folding bikes. I have a friend who uses a similar bike to commute more than an hour each day. It is fairly reliable. He travels mostly on side streets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I myself uses a Brompton M6R but only for short range commutes or for multi-modal commutes where I would only ride a maybe maximum of 5 km one way and only when I can use side streets. Beyond 5 km and/or when I have to travel via arterial roads, I use a cyclocross bike with bigger 700c wheels. The Brompton is just too slow to travel safely in my opinion on arterial roads where I live where the speed limit is 60 kph... most cars do more than that though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T01:40:19.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9571" CreationDate="2012-05-27T01:46:56.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a little of what you describe since I do an annual tour (coming up real soon now) and I always feel &quot;off&quot; for a few weeks after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the problem is more with hormones and neurotransmitters than with physical fitness.  The body adjusts hormones based on steady power output all day, and when that degree of power production drops (even though you're still quite active) the hormones go whacko.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there's also a sort of lack of motivation, of course, since the tour's over and it's back to the same old grind.  Motivation has &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; to do with how much effort you can put out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T01:46:56.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6238" CreationDate="2012-05-27T02:23:59.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good full-suspension bike will make offroad riding better in two respects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The rear suspension can help keep your rear tire almost glued to the dirt, meaning better traction when needed;&#xA;2) The rear suspension can help soak up trail buzz, resulting in greater comfort/less fatigue, especially if you don't have the bod of an elite cyclist with noodle arms and a concave chest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ridden a local trail with my 1980's vintage MTB (no suspension) and my recent vintage full-suspension bike (Trek Fuel EX 8) and it is like night and day. The bike weight is roughly the same (they built those first-generation MTBs like tanks), but I can go much faster and more comfortably on my Trek Fuel EX 8, especially when I am descending. The full suspension on the Trek makes it much more controllable and comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I admit that I have been passed by guys on hardtails many times, but I outweigh these guys by a few pounds and I definitely don't have the elite cyclist bod. I'm also older than most of them, judging based on appearance. Those are two factors that none of the other responders to-date have mentioned: age and size/weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, according to my experience, if you are young and/or thin, you may do just fine with a hardtail. But if you are not young and/or not thin, you would probably find greater enjoyment with a FS bike. Most of the folks that I ride with would qualify as &quot;Clydesdales,&quot; meaning they weigh 200 lbs or more. All of the Clydes have FS bikes for offroad riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T02:23:59.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2012-05-27T03:39:22.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;New road bikes are generally available from two sources: your local bike store (LBS) and online. Not all brands are available from both types of distribution channel. That makes it harder to compare apples to apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too, your LBS/brick &amp;amp; mortar retailer probably has a clearance sale starting sometime around August where they attempt to clear out inventory, so they can make space for next year's models. If you want to compare apples to apples, keep that in mind. You can get some very good deals in this way, which can be hard to beat online. The online-only sellers almost never have any kind of substantial sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In light of that, let's look at a couple of examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lynskeyperformance.com/store/helix-complete-with-ultegra.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lynskey Helix&lt;/a&gt; with full Ultegra drivetrain ($4950 assembled)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;vs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/lechamp_slti_xi.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikesDirect Motobecane Le Champion&lt;/a&gt; with full Ultegra drivetrain ($2100 assembled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bikes are very comparable in many respects. Both have a titanium frame, but the Lynskey frame is made in the USA, whereas the Motobecane frame is made in Taiwan. The Lynskey frame has a certain cachet among cyclists which the Motobecane frame does not have. If you were to compare the two frames side-by-side, you may find that the welds on the Lynskey are slightly prettier than the welds on the Motobecane. (The frame builders at Lynskey might be using multiple layers of weldment to help achieve that.) The other components are pretty comparable; I own and have ridden many miles on both the Aksium and Equipe wheels, for example, and there isn't much difference. The fork on the Lynskey is nicer and more expensive, but apart from that, all the components are entirely comparable in terms of price and quality. You can read online reviews of both bikes, and they both review favorably. The price for the Lynskey, however, is $2850 more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is sort of an apples-to-apples comparison, in that both bikes are available online and you can get them through certain dealers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take another trio of road bikes and compare:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/sport/madone_4_series/madone_4_7/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek Madone 4.7&lt;/a&gt; with a mostly-Ultegra drivetrain ($3150 MSRP)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;vs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/tarmac/tarmacsl3expertmid-compact#specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialzed Tarmac SL3 Expert&lt;/a&gt; with a mostly-Ultegra drivetrain ($3900 MSRP)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;vs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/immortalforce_10.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Motobecane Immortal Force&lt;/a&gt; with a mostly-Ultegra drivetrain ($1600 MSRP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the specs for each of these; you have nicer wheels on the Specialized, and there are other differences. But all the frames are made in Taiwan, so far as I know. A big part in the price difference comes from paying for the distribution channel. The dealer has to make a profit to stay in business. Trek &amp;amp; Specialized are mainly distributed through brick &amp;amp; mortar retailers; BikesDirect has some brick &amp;amp; mortar retailer distribution, but mainly they sell online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure: I ride a Motobecane Le Champion with the titanium frame; I have about 4100 miles on the bike, and I'm totally happy with it. I also have a Trek Fuel EX 8 that I scored on clearance from a brick &amp;amp; mortar retailer. So I have no problem to buy either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, you have to decide how much you are willing to pay for brand name cachet and LBS support. But I think it is fair to conclude that the dealer-centric brands cost more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2012-05-27T03:52:17.507" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T03:52:17.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9566" CreationDate="2012-05-27T06:14:35.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To directly answer your question, yes, the Crank Bros Premium Cleat is the one you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per their webiste -  compatibility: &lt;strong&gt;eggbeater&lt;/strong&gt;, candy, smarty, acid, mallet ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankbrothers.com/accessories_premium_cleat.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.crankbrothers.com/accessories_premium_cleat.php&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some good FAQ on these from Crank Bros:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankbrothers.com/support/faq_candy.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.crankbrothers.com/support/faq_candy.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T06:14:35.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9433" CreationDate="2012-05-27T06:31:37.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to identify the sound from the video. In person it may sound different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a similar FSA crank on my bike and after some miles it was making a creaking/clicking sound. It was different that what I hear in your video. My crankset made a noise when it was under load, i.e., when I was pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend tried three things to fix this: 1) tighten the chainring bolts; 2) lube/grease the crankshaft on the non-drive side; 3) remove the crank, and coat the threaded bearing holders/cups with anti-seize lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collectively, these worked. No more creak/click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note, some models of FSA cranks require a &quot;wavy&quot; washer to be installed on the non-drive side between the crank arm and the bearing shield. I don't know if this could be at the root of your issue or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T06:31:37.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9562" CreationDate="2012-05-27T07:28:48.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to struggle to find a decent folding bike in that price bracket. I ride a Birdy and a Bike Friday both of which are great riders but cost me over £500 second hand. I've got a Moulton F-frame Stowaway too but these are rare and also probably too expensive. How about looking at an old Raleigh 20 (or similar) from the 1970s? I've ridden a few of these and passed them on to friends later. (I've got a tandem version now). I've found the ride position to be good. The 3 speed hub gears are indestructible and you can pimp them endlessly if you want to later. Look at Sheldon Brown's website for ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4162" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T07:28:48.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9566" CreationDate="2012-05-27T12:49:03.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Premium cleats are a harder material, and will last longer than the cheaper brass cleats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;both fit the same, and both offer the 15 or 20 degree float option based on mount position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T12:49:03.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9567" CreationDate="2012-05-27T12:55:01.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have worn threads on the crank bolt. Over time older softer bolts can have threads that separate, and make it easier for the bolt to work loose. Try a new steel or Ti bolt with some thread lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the problem is the bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondarily, but you may have oversized the hole in the crack where the bottom bracket spindle goes, making the issue worse. Any crank arm rocking with a snug bolt will add to the speed at which the whole side comes loose. If this is the case the crank arm and the BB should probably be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:52:40.627" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:52:40.627" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9567" CreationDate="2012-05-27T13:11:39.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like I said, by now the crank arm is toast.  Originally the problem was just that the crank bolt was loose (they need to be REALLY tight -- ideally set with a torque wrench). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But running with a loose crank has deformed the socket on the end of the crank to where it no longer fits, and it rocks and works the bolt loose as you pedal.  And by now the crank shaft (which is steel vs the aluminum crank arm) may also be deformed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a vague possibility that a clever person could make the existing crank arm work fairly well with a shim cut from a beer can, but it takes some mechanical aptitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T13:11:39.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9591" CreationDate="2012-05-27T19:52:44.870" Score="9" ViewCount="52932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike (Cannondale Synapse Alloy 6). I bought it this past March. In addition, I purchased an inflator. It came with, I presume, a 16g cartridge. I haven't had the need to use this yet. I understand that one of these can put 130lb of pressure in a 27&quot; tire. My tires are designed to hold 105-110lb. I don't want to overinflate my tire. How do I know when I've put 110lb of air in my tire? With my floor pump, this is no problem. I set the pump to 110 and I can't put more in when I reach this amount. I don't want to blow my tire out with one of these cartridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T20:59:36.657" Title="Not sure about using a Co2 Cartridge" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9585" CreationDate="2012-05-27T20:14:36.510" Score="14" ViewCount="70758" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my tire is printed the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;25-622 (28 x 1.00 - 700x25c)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  6.8-8.0 Bar, 85-115 psi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I know what some of this means but am not sure. BTW, this came standard on my 2012 Cannondale Synapse 600 Alloy bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T13:49:37.070" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T04:43:02.693" Title="How do I translate this tire description into English?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9584" CreationDate="2012-05-27T20:21:46.847" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;700x25c is the diameter x width (in millimeters) of the tire, and 25-622 (ISO) and 28x1.00 (decimal) refer to the size in two different systems (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Tire Sizing Systems&lt;/a&gt; page for more detail). Buy tubes to fit as close to this size as possible. I sometimes have to use 25c on my 23c bike when I'm in an area with limited cycling supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.8-8.0 Bar is the recommended air pressure range, same as the 85-115 psi.&#xA;Bar is a metric measure for pressure, while psi is pounds per square inch. PSI is more common in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4165" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T03:34:29.477" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T03:34:29.477" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9571" CreationDate="2012-05-27T20:25:28.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should also make sure you eat plenty of protein as soon as you can following each ride during and after the tour. The protein will aid in muscle recovery and help push lactic acid out of your muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carb load before big rides, protein after. This seems to be the basis of most endurance diets I've encountered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4165" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T20:25:28.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9529" CreationDate="2012-05-27T20:39:28.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One trick I did to keep the nose from rubbing uncomfortably was to angle the nose of my saddle slightly downward. Yes, it is odd at first, since it tends to make you want to slide forward, but you should technically only have your sit bones on the saddle, which I can still do easily. The angled nose keeps it from knocking around between my legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works for me, but everyone has to figure out their own perfect setup. Also, make sure your bike is correctly fitted to you and that the seat is at the appropriate height. It all plays into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4165" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T20:39:28.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9583" CreationDate="2012-05-27T20:39:32.313" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This chart gives some reasonable details about inflation pressure vs tire size.  For most adult bike tires the 16g cartridge will produce a pressure that's within the sidewall limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eNvZZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T20:39:32.313" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9529" CreationDate="2012-05-27T22:04:38.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had a sore seat. I started riding 20 to 30 minutes every day, and worked up from there. I am much stronger now (after commuting 10000 km in a year) than I was. My power goes through my legs (I wear bike shoes), so only part of my body weight is on my seat (because some of my weight is instead pushing down on my leg[s]): I think that's what happening, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The experience / riding style is very different from novices (e.g. children) who must sit on the seat, and have no strong legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, they do make &quot;lady-specific&quot; and other saddles. It's surprising how much effect even a small difference has. A lady's bike would never fit me. Yesterday I tried on several pairs (different makes, similar sizes) before I found a pair of shoes that are comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also my bike is a 'hybrid' style (the handle bars are flat, not dropped or raised): meant to be faster (tires and gears) than a mountain bike and more comfortable (riding position) than a racing bike. Perhaps you should reconsider your handle bars (etc.) as well as your seat/saddle, in order to make sure you are riding in a comfortable and efficient position, for the kind of riding you are practising at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-05-27T22:13:52.183" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T22:13:52.183" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-05-27T22:04:38.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5251" CreationDate="2012-05-27T23:47:22.050" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two more positions (or variations): There is also an area in between position (1) and (3), on the corner of the bars and (depending on the bar) in between the corner and the hoods. I probably spend most of my time in these positions.  Also, if I want to get in a more aerodynamic position, but not go into the drops, holding the tops of the hoods works well for me too.  This is a great position going into the wind, and we get plenty of that in West Texas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4166" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T23:47:22.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9583" CreationDate="2012-05-28T00:16:23.643" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;These cartridges are intended to inflate a tire in an emergency situation, like during a race, or for example during a ride on the country-side, far away from gas stations ;o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(or, by the way, just to save your arm muscles from inflating a skinny tire up to a very high pressure)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they say &quot;up to 130 PSI&quot;, I think the manufacturers want the potential customers to be sure that the product actually might achieve 130 PSI if needed. For, say, 700x20 tires (very skinny ones), that would be a very reasonable pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use the cartridge, it must be attached to an inflator, which allows you to control how much pressure you desire. The key issue is: since there is not a pressure gauge, the only way to know the right point is to know beforehand what the right pressure &quot;feels like&quot; with your current tire, and then trying to replicate that after you fix the tire, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thumb-checking the tire so that it is &quot;hard enough&quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grabbing the seat or the handlebars and hitting the wheel against the floor so that it is &quot;hard enough&quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding the bike while looking at the bulge around the ground-contact area, so that it &quot;looks right&quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding the bike while hitting small irregularities on the ground, so that it &quot;feels right&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(unfortunately the gauge from my floor pump broke, and I am becoming expert on &quot;sensitive&quot; tire inflation methods :o(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bottom line, if your tire is designed for 110 PSI max., that doesn't mean (at all!) that it will instantly explode as soon as it reaches anything beyond that pressure, because that is the maximum pressure recommended to BE RIDDEN. If you get, say, 130 PSI with the cartridge, you'll probably feel it is too much, so you can deflate it a bit before riding. In the end, between too hard and too soft, there is a lot of room for personal taste, specially if you just want to go on riding, after a flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as an example: I had (have?) a lot of friends who ride mountain bikes with knobby tires up to 80 PSI (it's crazy, I know), just because the bike &quot;rides much better on asphalt&quot;. So far, no explosion happened (except one with a very low quality tire targeted at 40 PSI max... The girl literally hugged the road, but she was ok...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T00:24:05.613" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T00:24:05.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9571" CreationDate="2012-05-28T03:47:38.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My theory is endorphins. Our bodies generate them when we exercise. Or not, when we stop. All those days of steadily pumping out the good stuff makes the tour feel great but when I stop, ooops. I suggest you not try replacing them with synthetic endorphins as those are illegal and tend to be more addictive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a body habit transition, where a bunch of the cycles in my body are set up for big exercise every day and suddenly I'm back behind a desk 8 hours a day. Half an hour each way does not cut it, I'm barely warmed up by then. So I bloat (very thirsty in the morning but then water retention), feel stiff but twitchy, and after the first couple of days tend to lose interest in food. This is my body saying &quot;hey, you used to exercise, what happened to that?&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What works for me is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tapering the tour rather than spending the last couple of days riding really big distances to catch up after stopping to smell the roses earlier on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;taking the long way home from work (ride an hour or more)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eat junk food when I get home (swap endorphins for sugar, fat and umami)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stretching (yoga, martial arts) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;taking one day mid-week to go for a long ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me this is pretty much automatic now, I get home and hit the supermarket for all the food I couldn't really get or prepare while touring and the long ride is often a freebie when I go to pick up all the extra cr... stuff I took but posted home mid-ride and is now sitting in a post office somewhere on the other side of the city. The twitchyness means I do tend to get out and do stuff, often after a tour I go into a burst of deferred maintenance around the house or just go for long bike rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I find helpful is to take a mid-week day off after I get back and do something energetic. That means I have two days behind a desk, a day running round, then another two days. It means I'm more able to actually sit behind the desk and focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T03:47:38.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9597" CreationDate="2012-05-28T05:37:34.367" Score="4" ViewCount="9239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to buy a single-speed bike that happens to have 120mm hub spacing, and add the Shimano Alfine 8-speed hub. &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/0/alfine/product.-code-SG-S501-S.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;That hub&lt;/a&gt;, however, seems to have a 135mm spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the 8-speed Alfine hub be modified (in less than two hours, with standard hand tools) to 120mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3542" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T12:32:23.193" Title="Can a Shimano Alfine 8 speed be reduced to 120mm hub spacing?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-28T09:40:41.197" Score="3" ViewCount="48666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/cross_country/29er_race/x_caliber/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek X-Caliber&lt;/a&gt; and the rear disc is rubbing a little. So I want to adjust the brakes so it doesn't rub and make things a bit easier of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see many videos about brake adjustment but none for this model (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/avid/products/elixir-1-hydraulic-disc-brake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avid Elixir 1&lt;/a&gt;) and I am very worried about playing around with the system and then end up making things worse...or with no rear brakes at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in thailand and there isnt a good bike shop where i live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4170" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T16:58:34.663" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T11:24:10.220" Title="How to adjust Avid Elixir 1 hydraulic disc brakes?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9593" CreationDate="2012-05-28T11:11:58.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging from the picture, I would say no. The usual method for narrowing the over locknut distance of a hub is to use narrower locknuts. You can tell from the picture you posted that this is not possible. The locknut on the left is plenty wide, and it looks like you could probably shave off 5mm over there, but the drive side has no room to budge. It looks like you're out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But not entirely. From your 120mm reference, I'm guessing you have an older bike you want to install the hub into. These older frames are often quite amenable to being respaced, as they are generally steel frames with a lot of give. You should check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#necessary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's article on frame respacing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T11:11:58.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9593" CreationDate="2012-05-28T12:26:48.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, with either the 8 or 11 speed Alfine hub, there is no possibility of using it on a 120mm frame. The hub shell itself is about 120mm wide, without the cable carriers for shifting, or any spacers at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, as it appears from your 120mm reference, you are considering a fixed gear frame with that spacing, then you should reconsider. 120mm spaced dropouts are typical on  track specific frames, or track frames from very traditional builders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frames like these will also have geometries which are not suited to use on the road, and I assume you don't want the bike for the velodrome, since you want gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of fixie frames with 130m or or 135mm dropouts. If it is 130mm and steel, you will have no trouble adjusting the frame to fit a 135. Otherwise, you should use a 135mm spaced frame, which likely means a hybrid or mountain bike single speed frame, or a frame with a concentric bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T12:32:23.193" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T12:32:23.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9584" CreationDate="2012-05-28T15:13:23.450" Score="6" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;25-622 (28 x 1.00 - 700x25c)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of the tire. The way it's written here is kind of a mess, so no wonder you're confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim size is 700c (this designation is a relic of a sizing system that's no longer used. See the link to Sheldon Brown in the other answer). On a 700c wheel, the diameter of the bead is 622 millimeters. This size is sometimes referred to as &quot;29 inch&quot; when it's on a mountain bike. It can also (very rarely) be called &quot;28 inch&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25 is the width of the tire in millimeters (writing it as &quot;25c&quot; actually makes no sense). I assume that 1.0 is supposed to be the equivalent in inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what you have is a 700c 25 mm tire - pretty common size for road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;6.8-8.0 Bar, 85-115 psi&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommended tire pressure, but I'm sure you already figured this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T15:13:23.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9562" CreationDate="2012-05-28T21:33:28.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work in a well known high street cycle shop, and from my experiance customers who've bought Dahon have had nothing but problems. The bike has some serious problems. We make more money from repairing Dahon than selling them. My advice is that you buy the best you can afford, and the best folding bike by far is the Brompton, it wil last you decades. I hope it helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4172" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T21:33:28.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="960" CreationDate="2012-05-29T00:41:57.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/us/bug-cummuting-bag-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arkel bug&lt;/a&gt; with the laptop compartment which fits my Mac (36.5 x 25 cm rectangular which is a 17.4&quot; diagonal) and it works like a charm.  It converts to a backpack which helps since I bike to and from the train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gg3mP.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't go with that color.  They have others which are more reflective to headlights, and sell a bright yellow raincover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T00:41:57.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9605" CreationDate="2012-05-29T01:48:23.450" Score="2" ViewCount="1010" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if any of the popular iPhone ANT+ bicycling apps have the ability to &lt;em&gt;import&lt;/em&gt; a GPS track? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to start exploring some of the local trails/routes a bit - I've got .gpx tracks for some, but don't know of any iPhone apps that will both allow the import of the file AND feature any sort of ANT+ tie-in. I normally use digifit with speed/cadence and HRM sensors... I've got a GPS track of where I &lt;em&gt;AM&lt;/em&gt;, but really wish there were some sort of approximate &quot;turn by turn&quot; for following some of the trails/routes, especially the urban ones that are not clearly marked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T09:34:36.110" Title="iPhone ANT+ bicycling apps that can import a GPS track?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;iphone&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9604" CreationDate="2012-05-29T04:22:24.703" Score="7" ViewCount="12866" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m experiencing vibration somewhere in the rear half of the bicycle when descending at high speed (say more than 30 mph), and I haven’t been able to pinpoint the cause. Everything looks fine, everything I’ve tried wiggling seems solid, and nothing seems to be getting hot except the brakes and rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d like help figuring what, if anything is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could try to describe my observations in more detail, though I hesitate to do so for two reasons. First, they are all fuzzy and potentially misleading, since it’s hard to examine the bicycle while it’s moving 30-40 mph, and it makes me nervous so I slow down and the vibration stops. Second, it seemed like it could be useful to have a checklist of things to look into when experiencing such vibration, that isn’t limited to my particular problem. (If it’s more appropriate for this community, I’ll edit this question to add my observations.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T17:47:43.817" Title="Sources of vibration at high speed in and around rear wheel" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9602" CreationDate="2012-05-29T06:16:38.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you put it on a true stand? I'm assuming you don't see any obvious dents or seam separation, but a wheel can become untrue in such a way that the wheel is further from the hub at one end and closer to the hub at the other. This will be very hard to see because the change is very gradual, but will definitely cause vibrations at higher speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, the belts in tires sometimes separate, and the rubber will expand between the belt separation forming a 'bubble' in your tire. These are usually noticeable at low speeds, however, so I'd check the truing first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T06:16:38.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9602" CreationDate="2012-05-29T07:43:17.693" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: I've included things not at the rear of the bike as sometimes we think something is coming from one area when it's actually caused by another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;List of things I would check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels true and round without rubber (check dishing too, but unlikely to cause vibration)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding rubber (tire and tube) and inflating does not take wheel assembly out of true (some tires seem to float from side to side a bit and this can make things wobble a bit at speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel attachments such as reflectors don't lead to excessive imbalance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accessories such as pump, water bottle, lock are firmly attached.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check entire wheel assembly: spokes, skewers, bearings. Everything should be free of cracks, dents, bends. Parts that move should do so smoothly (bearings, freewheel). Things that should be straight should be straight (spokes, skewers).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pawls inside freewheel engage and slip smoothly and correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame is intact, no cracks or bends. Especially the chainstay and seat stay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork is intact, no cracks or bends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset is installed correctly, no play in steering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat post is intact, no cracks or bends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat post is tight to frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle is tight to seat post.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally I would check the bottom bracket area. This gets a lot of torque and abuse so give it another look for cracks or fatigue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still a problem? Get an experienced rider that is comfortable descending to ride your wheel. Find a nice straight descent with no traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastEditorUserId="4175" LastEditDate="2012-06-04T02:00:02.540" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T02:00:02.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9601" CreationDate="2012-05-29T08:11:26.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://news.motionx.com/category/motionx-gps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Motion-X&lt;/a&gt; as my tracking app and it can certainly import GPX and then navigate from it. It supports some ANT+ (at least HRM). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally the OpenStreetMap wiki has a good &lt;a href=&quot;https://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Apple_iOS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list of iOS apps&lt;/a&gt; comparing their functionality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T08:11:26.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4390" CreationDate="2012-05-29T09:27:54.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're riding in low light condition, lights can be mandatory by law.&#xA;I also like gloves because they protect your hands in accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A computer with cadence is the minimum you need to have if you want to train. I don't want to ride without one because I need to know cadence for doing intervals.&#xA;Heart rate monitor will be required if you want to have a coach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T09:27:54.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9583" CreationDate="2012-05-29T09:43:23.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no fundamental difference between using a CO2 and using an old/portable hand pump - you guess. The major difference, obviously, is that the CO2 cartridge inflates the tyre much, much quicker, so you can get from 0 to 80/100 in a fraction of a second rather than after many, many hand pumps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the checking is the same - how hard is the tyre when pinched between your fingers and does it bounce 'properly' when dropped? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you were really unlucky, you still have another tyre to use as a control and to compare the relative pressures (you'll be running the two tyres at roughly the same pressures, I assume, and the tyres themselves will be similar, probably the same model of similar age and wear). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CO2 is only designed as a stopgap until you get to a proper shop with a track pump, so underinflate if you're concerned - enough to make sure that your rims will be protected! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T09:43:23.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9546" CreationDate="2012-05-29T10:41:46.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I concur with Ken.  For that budget, anything you get new won't be great.  I'd definitely recommend trying for a second-hand machine - as long as you're careful when you buy it and give it a good once-over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy locally if you can.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps set a budget of £175 for a second-hand machine, then you've got some cash to spare on a service and a few bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4178" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T10:41:46.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9601" CreationDate="2012-05-29T11:00:26.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do it with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abvio.com/cyclemeter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cyclemeter&lt;/a&gt; directly from safari or email within your iphone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2721" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T11:00:26.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-29T12:04:23.847" Score="3" ViewCount="710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a kind of new bike and would like to put a triple or compact crankset on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've still got this NOS huret derailleur set (front, rear and shifters) laying around which would match the bikes flair pretty well; but I'm worried it won't fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I calculate the maximum size difference in front and rear sprockets this derailed can handle (by looking at it's dimensions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The derailleur model is the Huret Svelto. I'm looking into buying a crank with 34t and 48t sprockets and have a 7 speed rear cassette of 13t - 24t (but these are loose sprockets and can be changed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1580" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T08:49:54.940" Title="Short cage derailleur: how to find out maximum sprocket differences?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-29T12:05:55.537" Score="3" ViewCount="4835" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to convert a short cage rear derailleur (for example the Huret Svelto) to a long cage derailleur by just taking the lower cage and replacing it by a longer one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1580" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T21:52:44.170" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T21:52:44.170" Title="Converting a short cage rear derailleur to a long cage derailleur" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9611" CreationDate="2012-05-29T12:45:33.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if the derailleurs are the same model, and you can get all the parts, (which isn't usually a straightforward process) youcan convert from short cage to long cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T12:45:33.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9546" CreationDate="2012-05-29T13:46:48.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you're in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/hybrid-city-bikes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/hybrid-city-bikes/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Use price filters, read the reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like there is only one bike there that fits your requirements, and Raleigh has a decent reputation as a bike company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/raleigh-urban-1-2010/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/raleigh-urban-1-2010/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It get's nearly 5 star reviews. I say go for it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The viking looks pretty comparable though, it's got a front shock, which I think is totally unnecessary for a hybrid / commuter bike. Most 'good' front shocks cost almost as much or more than that entire bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T13:46:48.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9675" CreationDate="2012-05-29T14:11:14.217" Score="5" ViewCount="2622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep swallowing flies, because I'm mostly cycling along a canal.  I'm cycling quite hard, and mild hayfever means that I can't just breathe in through my nose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've bought a 'buff', but I'm getting too hot in that, and I'm not worried about pollution (small particles), so I'm after a lightweight mask that I can breathe through easily.  Are there any masks on the market suitable for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3679" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T08:16:04.450" Title="Are there any 'anti-fly' masks on the market?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9718" CreationDate="2012-05-29T14:41:40.397" Score="21" ViewCount="5468" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yz25y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cross chaining&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accepted wisdom is that cross chaining is bad and that we should never do it. However, most of us set up our bikes so that we can run any gear combination. Invariably, I'll occasionally look down and see that I'm running my big chainring against one of the bigger cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any measurement of how much faster equipment will wear out from cross chaining, or energy loss or whatever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T23:26:26.373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T23:26:26.373" Title="How bad is cross chaining?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9583" CreationDate="2012-05-29T17:10:46.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a CO2 inflator is all about technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the road, I have a 700x23 tire that wants ~100 - 115 psi; and a CO2 inflator with a 16g cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a flat in the middle of nowhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Patch the tube or replace with a spare and re-situate the tube and tire back onto the wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach CO2 inflator to the valve. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;----&lt;em&gt;Here's where the technique comes in&lt;/em&gt;----&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Don't just press the lever on the inflator and hold!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; You can easily explode the tube and have to start over (or find an alternative way home). Give the lever one short press, which should inflate the tube 2/3 - 3/4 full. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Compare flat tire to un-flat tire by feel and make sure that it's seated properly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Give the inflator lever another quick press. Compare tires again. You may be good to go here, but sometimes it may take one more light shot of CO2. The actual pressure in the tire is good enough to get home or to a proper pump.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the wheel back on and ride. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I blew up one or two tubes back in the day before I figured out the technique.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tip - To develop &quot;feel&quot; for tire pressure - Squeeze the tires before and after inflating to a known pressure. That way, you'll learn what the right pressure &quot;feels&quot; like.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of an old, well used, inflator that's been in a seat bag or jersey pocket for roughly 10 years (Notice the energy gel that is now permanently bonded to the inflator)... &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/genuine-innovations-proflate-elite-co2-inflator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;More modern ones&lt;/a&gt; can feature pressure indicators...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJ9mI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CO2 inflator&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-05-29T23:56:39.817" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T23:56:39.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9621" CreationDate="2012-05-29T17:34:04.970" Score="6" ViewCount="27000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any chain oil right now, but I have some gear oil left over from working on my car.  Would it be an effective chain lubricant?  It's listed as 80W90, but reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil&quot;&gt;the Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; suggests that that's not equivalent to motor oil viscosity ratings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T08:57:58.470" Title="Can I use gear oil on my chain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9617" CreationDate="2012-05-29T18:18:21.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes, you can. I've been doing it for years and my chains are lasting very long compared to ancient times when I used other stuff. Only potential caveat is that it is not the cleanest oil you'll ever use, but neither are the similar, much more expensive &quot;wet&quot; oils in the market (namely FinishLine Green). One liter of gearbox will cost a few bucks and last for the rest of your life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Who said motor oil is good for chains? ;o)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The owner's instruction manual from my former motorcycle (a Honda 200cc one) said explicitly to use gearbox oil on the chain. I suppose that either applications are similar (weather-exposed roller chains on two-wheeled vehicles), and if the oil is good for motorcycle, with larger torques and speeds, it should be good for bicycles too;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looking at the heart of the problem, roller chains need fluid, high-viscosity lubricants due to high pressure between metal parts. That's what happens on chains, that's what happens on gearboxes too. That's why FinishLine wet is viscous, and gearbox-oils are viscous too. Motor oil has a different application (hi-speed, combustion-chamber exposure).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T18:18:21.843" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2012-05-29T18:53:12.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, get a comfortable bike!  The more comfortable the bike, the more time you will spend riding it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1419" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T18:53:12.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9617" CreationDate="2012-05-29T19:08:23.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use gear oil if you want to, it will lubricate your chain. Some thinner motor lube will tend to spray off the chain when pedaling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did an experiment and used chainsaw chain oil on my own chain on my fixed gear bike.  It did a good job of lubricating the chain. However, it tended to pick up a lot of dirt and grime. It was also much harder to totally clean off unless I used really harsh solvents (like paint thinner).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm going to recommend buying bike specific lube.  It is easier to strip and re-apply using citrus degreasers or other products (simple green) and will not pick up gunk as quickly (especially dry lubes).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not going to convince everybody. Chain maintenance is a religious issue and everyone has their own set of beliefs about how to do it properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lot's of esoterica and info about chain maintiance here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T19:08:23.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9617" CreationDate="2012-05-29T19:09:25.180" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: No, you shouldn't. Heavy oils attract too much dirt, grit and grime which will damage the useful life of your chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a light lubricant which will wick it's way into the internals of the chain, rather than simply coating the external portion of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good Teflon carrier lube like the Finish Line Teflon works well, lasts a good while and doesn't pick up dirt when properly applied. Using something like that will extend the useful life of your chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear oil is too thick, and designed for a higher heat production than you get on a pedal driven bicycle. It relies on engine heat, and the gears moving at high speed to produce enough friction to reduce the viscosity of the oil enough to be thin enough to flow as a good lubricant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be better than nothing, but hardly a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-05-29T19:09:25.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-29T19:45:29.847" Score="10" ViewCount="4023" Body="&lt;p&gt;When is it safe to transport a baby on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myzigo.com/bakfiets2.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bakfiets&lt;/a&gt;? How does one know when a child is old enough for this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;safe&quot; I mean, protecting the child's brain from damage due to road vibration, pothole jolts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And by the baby would be strapped into a car seat anchored in the box of a bakfiets cargo bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4179" LastEditorUserId="4179" LastEditDate="2012-06-11T17:25:05.120" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T17:25:05.120" Title="Babies on Bakfietsen: How young is too young?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9622" CreationDate="2012-05-29T22:10:19.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it depends more on road and traffic conditions than age. If your roads are potholes linked by mounds of gravel and inhabited by mining trucks doing 100kph, 16 years old is too young. If you've got good roads with low speed limits and lots of bicycles, I'd be happy picking mother and child up from the hospital on a bakfiets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also be an experienced cyclist, used to the bike you'll be using to carry the baby. At the very least you should be long past the point where you ever accidentally drop the bicycle while stopping, for example. Your skill level should match where you're riding with the baby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's two considerations for the bicycle: use a suitable baby-carrier designed for new babies (they usually have their own extra suspension, and the baby lies flat); I would run the fattest tyres I could get and keep the front one soft, just for a bit of extra padding on the bumps. Usual caveats about making sure the baby does not get cold/ hot/ wet/ dry/ hungry/ bored/ overstimulated etc apply :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Australia I don't think there are any standards-approved newborn carriers for bikes, but I believe the Gazelle Cabby MaxiCosi was being considered so that may have happened (the problem is that the standard doesn't really have a &quot;baby seat for bicycle&quot; category, and the motor vehicle standard doesn't work). I have seen a baby less than 6 months old in a generic &quot;baby basket&quot; loose in the front of a bakfiets in town. Mother and baby were quite happy with that arrangement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, I think it's mostly about the road conditions. Smooth roads, well shared mean you can carry almost anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastEditorUserId="3582" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T21:22:03.317" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T21:22:03.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9633" CreationDate="2012-05-30T00:37:01.653" Score="2" ViewCount="8436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my 2008 Devinci mountain bike sounds like it's ticking when I push down on my left pedal on a usual rotation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the bike over and go through rotations, I can't get it to tick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put my left crank all the way down &amp;amp; jump a little on the left pedal, I don't get the ticking.  Only when I'm spinning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ticking isn't 100% consistent, but probably about 80-90% of the rotations have this tick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to my LBS, but they just said it was a bent chainring tooth - which it wasn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like this is definitely the bottom bracket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I took it into my LBS to get the BB taken out &amp;amp; cleaned.  The tech said he couldn't find anything wrong with it, but did hear the ticking.  He greased &amp;amp; lubed anything that moved, and the sound lessened quite a bit.  I haven't had a good long ride on the bike since, so I haven't verified if the sound has gone away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final update:&lt;/strong&gt; Went for a good ride &amp;amp; didn't hear the ticking, so it was likely the BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4181" LastEditorUserId="4181" LastEditDate="2012-06-04T17:46:31.960" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T17:46:31.960" Title="Bottom bracket is ticking" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9625" CreationDate="2012-05-30T01:00:07.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottom bracket noise is a frequent problem, and often hard to diagnose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, check the tightness of the crank bolts.  (Your LBS should have done this when they checked out the bike.)  A loose crank bolt can be the cause of BB noise, and failure to tend to the problem immediately (if not sooner) can result in irreparable damage to the crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that there are a number of possible causes.  On a non-derailleur bike the chain may simply be too tight.  On a derailleur bike the chain may have a frozen link.  There may be a bent chainring tooth, or a deformed chain link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarely, the problem can be due to bearing problems within the BB, but much more often with BB cartridges the cups have worked slightly loose and the cartridge is sliding back and forth in the housing (harmless and easily fixed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On bikes with loose bearings (vs a cartridge) in the bottom bracket a loose cup can allow the crank to actually tilt slightly, such that the chain hangs up on the sprocket.  (This is easily diagnosed by simply grabbing the crank and shaking it -- there should be no bearing play detected.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And pedal bearings seem (to me) to go out with aggravating frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, of course, there's the &quot;trick&quot; knee or ankle that clicks sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T01:00:07.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6612" CreationDate="2012-05-30T03:41:31.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;SOMA makes good quality affordable frames and their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/es&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ES&lt;/a&gt; comes in 66cm.  I'm only 6'4 but long in the limbs and I rode that on an extended tour just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame will probably set you back $400 or so which should leave room to kit it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zh4mm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T03:41:31.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9622" CreationDate="2012-05-30T07:26:21.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a practical example of somebody who has experience with transporting kids in bakfietsen:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bakfiets-en-meer.nl/2008/11/04/kyokos-bakfiets-cargobike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bakfiets-en-meer.nl/2008/11/04/kyokos-bakfiets-cargobike/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T07:26:21.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9583" CreationDate="2012-05-30T11:19:21.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a CO2 inflator for almost 5 years. On average I use mine around 2 to 3 times a year not only to pump my tires when I have a flat while riding solo but also those of my friends when they suffer flats on group rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had no incident of the tire exploding and I don't even check what pressure the tire got to after inflating it with the CO2 inflator. What experience has shown me is you just pump your tire (700 x 23 or 25) and the pump will auto stop outputting CO2 when it reaches approximately 100 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One cartridge if you are careful is good for inflating two 700 x 23c tires (or being used twice). I use a spring loaded Genuine Innovations Inflator which you just press a bit hard to engage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally one should remember the CO2 seeps out of the inner tube faster than air so one should replace the CO2 with air after arriving home or at the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3111" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T11:19:21.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9634" CreationDate="2012-05-30T13:14:14.433" Score="1" ViewCount="2783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got drop bars with Shimano Tiagra STI shifters and want to use a Rando Bag on my small front rack or a handlebar mount bag.  Currently the shift cables jut out between the drop bars and hit in to the sides of my bag and can't be bent around it.  I have to run the cables under the top flap of my rando bag to get them out of the way, but this makes it hard to access the contents of the bag on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to prevent this cable from interfering with my rando bag that doesn't involve switching out my shifters?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T12:54:15.743" Title="How do I prevent STI shifter cables from blocking access to my Randoneering Bag or Handlebar bag?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;randonneuring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9625" CreationDate="2012-05-30T13:44:09.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's happening on every revolution, I would say it's not a frozen link in the chain as that would take a few revolutions to get back around. Does it also happen when you stand up out of the saddle? that would rule out any noises related to your saddle/seat post which can often be mistaken for BB noises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than likely it's your bottom bracket, the crank arm is loose, or perhaps the pedal is loose. Especially on a MTB you can get dirt and grime in the interfaces where these parts join to one another and they will work themselves loose a little bit through normal wear and tear. The reason it's not making the noise when you flip the bike over is because you need some torque to make it happen go out of alignment and cause the tick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd either remove, clean and regrease your BB, crank arms and pedals yourself if you are comfortable with that or take it to a shop and let them know you need your BB removed, cleaned and reinstalled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T13:44:09.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9632" CreationDate="2012-05-30T13:48:17.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution is probably to move to either a different shifter setup like newer shimano 105/ultegra or SRAM (with cable routing under the handlebars) or to a barend setup like most randos employ. I know this isn't your preferred solution, but it's probably the easiest and most effective. If you mess with the routing/length on your shift cables, you're going to start experiencing shift slipping and improper shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T12:54:15.743" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T12:54:15.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-30T14:15:42.377" Score="6" ViewCount="1164" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of sunscreen is best for long road rides? I'm thinking sweatproof, non-greasy, non-smelly. Ideally it would be a 'low risk' and 'safe' according to something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://breakingnews.ewg.org/2012sunscreen/all-sunscreens/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EWG&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goodguide.com/products?filter=sunscreen&amp;amp;sort_by_type=rating&amp;amp;sort_order=DESC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Good Guide&lt;/a&gt;, since I don't like putting nasty chemicals on my body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is something that lasts a long time (think 4 or 5 hour ride in the hot sun) while sweating, without running into my eyes/mouth/onto my hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experiences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T17:46:26.483" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T15:46:19.943" Title="Sunscreen for Riding" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;sun-protection&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9635" CreationDate="2012-05-30T14:43:20.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real key for cycling sunblock is to not put it on your forehead, or wear some kind of bandana to block the sweat from getting in your eyes. Or wear a cycling hat under your helmet to protect your head from sunburn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spray the sunscreen on the bottom half of my face, ears, neck etc. then use some additional cream/stick on my nose for added protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer the Neutrogena sport sprays that are listed on the Good Guide link you asked about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastEditorUserId="3931" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T15:46:19.943" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T15:46:19.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9632" CreationDate="2012-05-30T15:24:18.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that someone has come up with a solution to use vbrake noodles to re-route the STI shifter cables with some success.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thecrazyrandonneur.wordpress.com/2012/05/08/how-to-have-a-large-handlebar-bag-with-sti-shifters/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://thecrazyrandonneur.wordpress.com/2012/05/08/how-to-have-a-large-handlebar-bag-with-sti-shifters/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T15:24:18.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9632" CreationDate="2012-05-30T15:35:27.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nokon.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nokon Cables&lt;/a&gt; can be used to route your derailer cable under the bar tape. They still may stick out a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=65639&amp;amp;view=next&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=65639&amp;amp;view=next&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T15:35:27.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-30T16:35:32.373" Score="4" ViewCount="1929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in purchasing an electric bike but am puzzled as to what brand is best. It seems as though most companies are importing their products from China, which is great because they are low cost but they look bulky and maybe even cheap quality. There aren't many electric bike manufacturers let a lone traditional bike manufacturers in America. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4185" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T01:02:43.090" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T04:13:25.150" Title="What electric bikes are for sale in the US, and how good are they?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9646" CreationDate="2012-05-30T17:20:20.053" Score="8" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spend the vast majority of my time inside, so I would like to start getting into cycling. I rode up to the beach a couple days ago and got some slight sunburn. I personally don't mind sunburn all too much, but the news has successfully instilled a fear of skin cancer into me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial reaction to articles like: &lt;a href=&quot;http://shine.yahoo.com/healthy-living/the-new-rules-of-sun-safety-2477938.html&quot;&gt;http://shine.yahoo.com/healthy-living/the-new-rules-of-sun-safety-2477938.html&lt;/a&gt; that make claims such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's not smart to go out-of-doors unprotected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..was that the writers were absolutely nuts. We've spent our entire evolutionary history under the sun - to think that short excursions outdoors would be dangerous seems ludicrous. But then, people are living much longer than they ever did before and, if there are dangerous aspects of sun exposure, the increase in greenhouse gases might be adding to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does anyone know the reality behind all of this? Should I wear sunblock, or is skin cancer only a risk for people outside all day everyday?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4186" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T17:46:13.783" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T04:11:53.123" Title="Should I be wearing sunblock?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;sun-protection&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-26T03:01:47.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9622" CreationDate="2012-05-30T17:45:28.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agree with Kohi's answer. It would also depend on your level of skill as a cyclist. If you are not familiar with riding a Long John or other kind of cargo bike, getting one as a &quot;congradulations!&quot; present would not be appropriate, you have better things like...sleep...to consider. Securing the baby seat to the cargo area is important. Make sure you leave room for your diaper bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zsm9h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;our friend who biked to the birth center while beginning contractions&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not shown in the attached picture is that there is also an umbrella she uses as a rain and sun-shade her baby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as for vibration, the amount of vibration an infant can tolerate would generally match how much jogging, jostling and walking and dancing the mother did while pregnant. Motion tends to lull infants to sleep, and the sound of tires on pavement would be much like white noise. I cannot cite, but I have heard from a birthing instructor that the sound an infant is used to matches sticking your head under a tub spigot turned full blast. So I wouldn't worry about traffic noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastEditorUserId="1944" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T18:00:17.447" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T18:00:17.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9641" CreationDate="2012-05-30T17:46:51.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear sunblock all the time, because I burn easily, as much as cancer concerns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, one to watch for, as you get older and lose hair, is to remember sunblock under the helmet, else you get burn lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T17:46:51.487" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9644" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-05-30T17:47:18.073" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T17:47:18.073" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T17:47:18.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9645" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-05-30T17:47:18.073" Score="0" Body="Protection from the sun. Sunblock, sunscreen, hats, shirts, etc." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T17:47:18.073" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T17:47:18.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9641" CreationDate="2012-05-30T17:48:25.560" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've spent our entire evolutionary history under the sun, but also aging quickly and dying at young ages. The evolutionary history argument just isn't very compelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current consensus is that sunscreen helps prevent skin cancer, and skin cancer is indeed common. On the other hand, I have seen references to theories suggesting that sunscreen might increase a certain type of cancer or decrease vitamin D production, but these do not seem to be widely accepted. An in-depth discussion of this is probably more appropriate for Skeptics.SE than Bicycles.SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, just use sunscreen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: As heltonbiker pointed out, burning and cancer susceptibility depend on your skin, and most people develop some protection from tanning. I personally wear sunblock during mid-day rides (between about 11:00 and 3:00), when the sun is directly overhead, but I'll leave it off for evening and early morning rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're burning instead of tanning (even if you don't mind the burns), you're probably getting too much exposure and should use sunscreen more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T20:43:44.757" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T20:43:44.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9641" CreationDate="2012-05-30T19:36:20.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I offer an &quot;informed decision&quot; answer, partly based on a (slightly skeptical) medical knowledge, and from my experience as a biker. This should NOT be considered some truth emited by a potential authority-figure, neither an advice to act this or that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one hand, there is a very positive association between skin exposure to UV radiation (such as sunlight) and skin cancer. This association is much greater in people who have a very white skin color, such as most european/caucasian ethnic groups. It is believed that this is due to the small capacity of these skin types to produce melanin. Melanin is a dark pigment produced by skin cells to protect the cell nucleus, and its production is somewhat stimulated by sunlight exposure. Please read these very interesting paragraphs from Wikipedia: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melanin#Human_adaptation&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melanin#Human_adaptation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as a biker, my experience is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There was a time when I didn't ride much often in direct sunlight. I almost always got sunburn when I went to the beach during the summer, unprotected, when it became obvious that sunblock was needed, at least on high-exposure seasons and places. During that time, riding across noon in the summer almost always implied a reddish sunburn on neck, nose, calves and forearms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some time later, I started to use sunblock to ride my bike during the summer, if I knew there would be many hours exposed to the sun. It worked a lot, no sunburns at all, but if at any time I forgot the sunblock, I got sunburned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nowadays, in what my wife (with much reason) considers a very questionable behaviour, I gave up any kind of sun protection to ride the bike, completely. This was due to many &quot;reasons&quot;, which I am not ashamed to share:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think the skin must be given the opportunity to develop at least a minimum amount of self-defense;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The anti-cancer pro-sunblock-all-the-time propaganda contains all the tints of a pharmaceutical lobby, at least partially;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheer lazyness, sort of.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The experience I've been having, and it is a totally empirical, baseless, subjective one, is that I very rarely get sunburnt anymore. During the summer, the exposed skin gets very tanned (the classical &quot;cyclist tan&quot;) and don't hurt except after very long rides under scorching sun (I tend to use sunblock on these occasions, anyway, but sometimes...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think both views (sunblock-always and sunblock-never) are too extreme. That's the reason why a lot of information is needed to choose an &quot;informed decision&quot; strategy, so that one can achieve a reasonable balance between them. The scientifical evidence about cancer vs. sunlight gets to the media very distorted by oversimplification, incompleteness and commercial/professional bias. In the other hand, as already been said, there is an undoubtfully positive evidence of association between UV radiation exposure (as sunlight) and skin cancer incidence on clear-skin populations, which might or might not be overrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T19:36:20.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9641" CreationDate="2012-05-30T20:05:05.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the very least you need to be aware of the potential for burning, since, if nothing else, it's unpleasant.  (We'll let others preach about skin cancer, et al.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't burn easily, but, when cycling (with a helmet), and the sun is at all bright, I find it advisable to put sun block on the back of my neck, my lower arms (including hands), and my upper legs, below the point that they will be exposed when my shorts &quot;ride up&quot;.  When riding, these areas are exposed to more intense sun that other parts of the body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the upper arms need treating (if you're not wearing a long-sleeve jersey), if the sun is at a lower angle.  And the backs of the lower legs can burn if you're riding east in the afternoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T21:48:54.970" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T21:48:54.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9635" CreationDate="2012-05-30T20:10:19.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Scape which is an &quot;athlete sunblock&quot; and which does NOT run. I'm a heavy sweater when the sun is out but no problems with Scape. I use the big 50+ when I kit up before a ride on a sunny day...Seattle Area, but we do get sunny days and with no tan to back up, you need the sunblock. The smaller &quot;Clean Foam&quot; is great for your Triathlon bag if you do tri's to touch up right before the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I go with buzz cut, I just rub a bit all over my scalp. Don't forget back of knees which can get real exposed depending on your bike route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link to their website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://scapelabs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://scapelabs.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T20:10:19.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9640" CreationDate="2012-05-30T23:31:14.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of our bikes is an electric bike.  It's an older &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.izipusa.com/26-izip-hg1000-electric-bike.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iZip HG 1000&lt;/a&gt;, and although we got it through the American &quot;manufacturer&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.currietech.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Currie Technologies&lt;/a&gt;), like most of the low-end ebikes it's made in China of heavy steel and uses cheap, cheap, cheap components.  For example, it has these &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8456/how-can-i-stop-a-belt-brake-band-brake-from-squealing&quot;&gt;awful band brakes&lt;/a&gt; because they're slightly cheaper than cantilevers.  (Those pics are not of my bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we bought it a couple years ago, most of the department stores (WalMart, Zeller's, Canadian Tire) had bikes of similar (low) quality available under a variety of brand names - iZip and Schwinn (both also from Currie) were the most common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even though I've always referred to our ebike as a cheap, made-in-China piece of junk, in the first 6 months we had it I commuted 40km a day and put 2500km on it.  It hasn't been used as much since then, but it's still going.  OTOH, it has required some work...  For various reasons, it has a two-part drive-train: a short chain from the cranks to an intermediate sprocket, then another chain from there to the freewheel.  As shown in the following picture, I managed to shear off all 4 bolts that held the two cogs on the intermediate sprocket together.  (And to get access, I first had to take apart 4 or 5 pieces of plastic bodywork.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f29Ec.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;busted gears&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it comes down to: you get what you pay for.  If you don't abuse it, a cheap ebike might do ok, but fundamentally it's made with heavy, low-quality steel, and cheap components.  Bikes like that can be serviceable, but are simply not very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One brand that seems to be associated with somewhat higher-quality bikes is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bionxinternational.com/bionx-international-north-america/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BionX.&lt;/a&gt;  I think they are still mostly a supplier of LiIon battery packs, motors and controllers, and many different companies sell ebikes built with BionX drive systems.  You could look for local dealers who sell bikes made with their components.  I'm sure there are other companies that supply drive systems to bike shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T03:18:30.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9602" CreationDate="2012-05-30T23:54:40.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on recent personal experience, I would suspect the hub bearings. I'm guessing you've checked the wheel for play, but if you did this while the wheel is still on the bike, you may have missed it. Play is often not noticeable when quick-release skewers are used as these provide additional compression on the cups that can artificially tighten the bearings masking the underlying problem. Check for play with the quick-release done up loose, or with the wheel off the bike, for a better idea of hub wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This quick release tightening phenomenon is documented at&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recent experience sounds very similar to your's - vibration only when descending rapidly. Once I fixed the (totally knackered) bearings, the vibration stopped. My bearing play was masked by the quick release tension so it was not immediately obvious that the hubs needed servicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4191" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T23:54:40.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9655" CreationDate="2012-05-31T02:52:47.930" Score="0" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be in the market for a wheelset for my touring bike, a 2004 Jamis Aurora. I know very little about buying wheels; what are the things I should consider? I don’t need anything fancy, and I’d like to keep the cost down, so machine-built (as opposed to hand-built) seems like the logical choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run fairly wide tires, 28-35mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer “don’t buy machine-built wheels” would also be perfectly valid; I’d be curious to hear the reasoning in this case. I spent a good bit of time on rec.bicycles about 10 years ago, and that community was really down on machine-built wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastEditorUserId="4175" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T02:59:16.267" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T04:42:53.257" Title="How to buy machine-built wheels for a touring bike?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9654" CreationDate="2012-05-31T04:42:53.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that I really enjoy building wheels so I'm a bit biased here, but...as long as you inspect them when you get them, machine built wheels are usually okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (main) differences between machine and hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of components. Generally machine built wheels use cheaper components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Logo in the right place (you should see it centered under the valve hole) - purely cosmetic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tension brought up slowly and evenly on hand built wheels. This (and hubs) would be my main concern. The machine will make sure everything is true, round, and dished...sometimes better than a person can do...but it may not get there smoothly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With (1) my concern would be the quality of the rim, mainly the braking surface and the weld, and the quality of the hub. The hub quality, especially at low speeds, is going to have the most impact on how &quot;fast&quot; a wheel is. Weight (spokes/rim mostly) will have some effect on climbing, but not much and with the big tires you are going to roll, I wouldn't have much concern here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern with (3) is primarily how well the wheel will hold true and round. Most folk will occasionally check trueness of the wheel, but ignore roundness. You can check both without a truing stand, but to check roundness you need to take off the rubber. If you're willing to check a couple of times after you've put some good miles on them you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My $0.02 is to look for wheels that have decent rims and good hubs and then give them care, especially during the first 1,000 miles or so. On a budget, I'd rather see you pick up some machine built wheels with good hubs then some hand built wheels with bad hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T04:42:53.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9622" CreationDate="2012-05-31T06:03:52.263" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;that's me in the picture above! Hi, all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carried both my babies by bike-- they came home in-arms onboard pedicabs, and started in the Yuba rig pictured quite young (baby #1 at 7 weeks, baby #2 at 3.5 weeks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The American Pediatric Association says babies should not ride on bikes until they are one year old and can support the weight of their head + a helmet while sitting upright in a child seat or trailer. They vaguely cite vibration damage to the spinal cord as reason to refrain from carrying them younger, though if anyone can show me the study that indicates that a baby in a car-seat onboard a bike suffers more jostling than a baby in a stroller or a baby-carrier, I'll give you $50.  I've searched, including PubMed and other scholarly databases, and it appears that the APA's finding is based entirely on speculation rather than scientific analysis. Which makes sense, as Dutch infants travel this way all the time without a rash of bike-based brain injuries. I am unconvinced by the APA's recommendation and, for my own children, have chosen to ignore it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any form of travel is going to involve some bouncing; once you decide that your baby will benefit more from leaving the house than from being safe inside it you are exposing him to some danger. Auto accidents are the leading cause of death for children in the US, remember. So get over this notion that bike travel is this exceptional form of risk for your baby.  We put some foam under the strapped-down car seat to add a bit of extra suspension, and were as careful as possible to choose the smoothest available line while riding, but ultimately, some bouncing is going to happen. And that's probably fine (add caveat here where I am not a doctor nor a lawyer, just a mom with two healthy-and-clever-so-far bike-carried kids, ymmv).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my feeling is, as long as your kiddo is reclined and secured, even the littlest babies are safe on bikes, as long as the bikes have competent riders and safe places to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nota bene: a baby in a car seat should not wear a helmet: the extra material under the back of their head would put unsafe strain on their neck and defeat the purpose of the reclined &amp;amp; secured position. This means that, in states with a child (or universal) helmet law, carrying a baby on a bike is de facto illegal. I feel that strapping a baby to a big seat-shaped piece of styrofoam rather than a little head-shaped piece of styrofoam provides similar protection, however, the letter of the law in my state (and maybe yours) disagrees. I'm grateful to have never had to take the issue to court, and haven't heard of anyone else doing so either. But, something to keep in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For another perspective on this issue, see: &lt;a href=&quot;http://totcycle.com/blog/baby-on-a-bicycle.html&quot;&gt;http://totcycle.com/blog/baby-on-a-bicycle.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the SF Bike Coalition's Family Biking Guide has a great section on biking with infants: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sfbike.org/?family_guide&quot;&gt;http://www.sfbike.org/?family_guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4195" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T06:03:52.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9659" CreationDate="2012-05-31T09:29:14.840" Score="1" ViewCount="2099" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to buy the Shimano Acera SL-M360 (but now the shop only has the SL-M310 ones), so I wanted to double check if it's what I'm actually looking for. I just want them to last long and do their job properly, no extreme conditions functionality required..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I just want to know if those are good and if there is any difference between the two (and if there is, how significant it is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4035" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T12:52:04.937" Title="New shifters: is Acera SL-M360 a good buy and how much better is SL-M310?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9657" CreationDate="2012-05-31T12:52:04.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acera is on the lower end of Shimano's line of components for hybrids and other bikes that aren't going to see an exceptional amount of stress. They fit that bill relatively well, but being built mainly of plastic they do have a tendency to wear out over time. Having said that, it's probably the best deal you're going to get in terms of usefulness and longevity per dollar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T12:52:04.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9664" CreationDate="2012-05-31T13:02:09.630" Score="7" ViewCount="7268" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I tend to run 700x23c or 700x25c tires on my commuter bike. Sometimes I'm lazy and forget to check the air pressure and inevitably get a pinch flat when I hit some stationary object, pothole, or big curb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I get a snakebike type of pinch flat (2 holes somewhat separated, usually on opposite sides of a ridge in the tube, I find it hard to patch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either I use a small patch without having the small patch only extend past the holes 1mm or 2mm and usually placed over the ridge/seam in the tube, or I use a large patch which is really hard to apply since it is wider than the tube (making it hard to apply glue and appropriate pressure to patch when gluing) but provides coverage for both holes at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Park tool GP-2 glueless patches seem to work ok for this situation since they can easily be overlapped without issue.  However, I hear anecdotal evidence that they are not as durable as patches used with vulcanizing fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the preferred way to patch these type of tricky flats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:53:17.970" Title="Best practice for patching snakebite pinch flats on skinny tubes" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9696" CreationDate="2012-05-31T13:13:24.373" Score="9" ViewCount="850" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding in the northeast US, I find myself encountering a lot of overgrown mountain bike trails in the spring.  Many of these trails are bordered by briars / brambles / jaggers.  I can't totally avoid them, so what can I do to protect my legs from them while not subjecting myself to overheating in hot weather with high humidity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T16:18:38.473" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T08:33:11.693" Title="Protecting yourself from briars / brambles / jaggers while mountain biking" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;protection&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9660" CreationDate="2012-05-31T13:14:47.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issues you are seeing are more related to the type of patch and the air pressure. Glueless patches and high pressure don't mix. Even on a single puncture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try making sure you used the dime sized patches and vulcanizing fluid as directed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just make it a rule to check your tires every 2 or 3 days. High PSI tires tend to drop in PSI fast because they are such low volume. You could also try a latex tube as they have smaller holes between the molecules of the tube, which has less air leak over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:53:17.970" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:53:17.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9713" CreationDate="2012-05-31T14:46:49.353" Score="28" ViewCount="43732" Body="&lt;p&gt;Up close you can see at least three 'hairs' of rubber from this picture from the side of my tyre:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zfrSD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do they exist? I've heard they are just a bi-product of the manufacturing process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T14:46:04.393" Title="What purpose do the rubber 'hairs' have on new tyres?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9660" CreationDate="2012-05-31T14:54:13.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the thinnest conventional (tube-of-glue type) patches you can find.  They should be the type with feathered edges.  A little overlap is OK, but trim the edges if there will be a lot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better still, swap in your spare tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better still, don't let your tires go flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Avoid using large patches as they won't expand as the tube expands.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T14:54:13.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9663" CreationDate="2012-05-31T14:56:17.330" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are &quot;sprues&quot; -- bits of rubber that went into the vent holes in the tire mold.  They serve no purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T14:56:17.330" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-31T15:22:06.783" Score="0" ViewCount="4141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a second bike and have found a really nice frame. The bike I cycle at the moment, which fits me perfectly (I am 5'11&quot; (180cm)), has a 55cm top tube. The frame I'm looking at has a 51cm top tube. Is this difference too much? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4199" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-06-03T21:51:13.003" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T21:51:13.003" Title="51cm top tube too small for someone who normally cycles frame with 55cm top tube?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9666" CreationDate="2012-05-31T16:00:17.423" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's within the range where you can adjust the fit to work with things like longer stems and seatposts and have a comfortable ride, but it will handle differently. You should probably install a fork with longer rake than what you currently have to avoid overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T16:00:17.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9666" CreationDate="2012-05-31T16:08:43.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the bike geometry. I'd say that's a pretty big difference though. I would only vary a few cm in either direction from your ideal frame size. I'm sure you could ride it, but I think you'd feel kind of cramped on it. Different geometry may have an impact on top tube size though. I would hold out for a frame that suits you well and you'll be happy with for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T16:08:43.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9661" CreationDate="2012-05-31T16:38:44.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try soccer socks, with or without shin guards. They cover the part of legs usually affected by vegetation, and are somewhat sports-oriented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least since soccer players usually get covered with sweat on hot days, I guess these equipment are design to handle that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shin guards are usually worn inside the socks, but if the vegetation damages the socks too much, it could be adviseable to wear the guards over the socks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T16:38:44.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9666" CreationDate="2012-05-31T16:52:09.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two lenghts on a bike that are crucial for bike fit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat tube length, which tells you how much of your seatpost will be outside the frame;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Effective top tube length, which is the horizontal distance between the centerlines of seat tube and head tube. This tells about your reach to the handlebars, how much the bike will feel &quot;long&quot; or &quot;short&quot; to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some time ago, almost all the bikes had an horizontal top-tube, and due to manufacturing constraints (lugged frames using lugs with fixed angles) they tended to have a certain proportion between frame &quot;height&quot; and &quot;length&quot; in order to fit the average rider with a certain height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today we have a widespread adoption of welded frames, sloped top-tubes, mirabolant geometry designs, and we should always consider variations in leg-torso proportion for people with the same height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why I think is safer not to consider the relation between  one of length/height of two frames to have a correspondent variation of the other measure. In other words, is perfectly plausible to have two frames with same seat tube lenght and significantly different effective top tube length, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your question: Yes, you can ride a frame with a 51cm seat tube lenght, achieving a similar fit, IF the effective top tube length of the frame is similar to the corresponding measure of the former 54cm frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Unfortunately, since the frame you are looking at is a 51cm top tube, it is unlikely to be a good fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(EDIT: I thank Zenbike for editing my question, because I had mistaken top tube for seat tube and didn't even notice. Usually only the seat tube length is informed, and end up being considered as &quot;THE&quot; frame size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-06-03T21:50:08.810" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T21:50:08.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3189" CreationDate="2012-05-31T16:53:31.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, TLI Cycling events offer age-related racing, allowing a rider to compete in his/her peer group, without paying over the top for a UCI licence. TLI Cycling offers single day membership at £4 on top of the race entry fee, and provides you with public liability insurance of £10,000,000. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For details see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tlicycling.org.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TLI Cycling&lt;/a&gt; website&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4201" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T16:53:31.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9666" CreationDate="2012-05-31T17:13:01.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put, yes, a 51cm frame is too small, assuming it uses traditional geometries. Since you state that the top tube is 51cm, you can assume that it uses traditional geometries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife, 5'2&quot; and 118lbs, rides a 51cm top tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T18:26:50.983" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T18:26:50.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9693" CreationDate="2012-05-31T17:18:25.080" Score="7" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my interest was piqued with a very long tour: &lt;a href=&quot;http://tourdivide.org/&quot;&gt;http://tourdivide.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being time constrained by an 8 hour job, how does one train for a ride that will require 160 kilometers (100 miles) per day for 30 days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T17:57:17.807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T14:24:14.553" Title="How to train for a long tour?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9666" CreationDate="2012-05-31T17:21:05.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frankly, it's better for the bike to be a bit too small (within reason) than a bit too big.  The main question is whether you can get the seat up high enough (without &quot;cheating&quot;) to get full leg extension, and whether the &quot;reach&quot; of the bike and the handlebar height are then satisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measurements only get you so far -- you need to ride the bike to be sure.  (Which is a little hard to do with only a frame, sadly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T17:21:05.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9614" CreationDate="2012-05-31T18:04:11.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buffs are useful for a time, but I understand that they can get uncomfortable after a few kilometres. Try something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=8651&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this mask&lt;/a&gt; from Respro - you can buy replaceable filters and I think they look kind of cool too; you can even shove them in the washer after a particularly muddy or sweaty ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3594" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T18:04:11.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-31T18:12:34.270" Score="1" ViewCount="1952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently broke my Derallieur in my Road bike and I am planning to get a new one online but I dont know exactly which one to get is for the rear Derailleurs of 7 speeds.&#xA;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4202" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:51:29.017" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:51:29.017" Title="7 speed rear derailleurs for road bike?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;7-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-31T18:56:38.317" Score="4" ViewCount="37216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am soon going to buy a pair of pedals (and new shoes of course) for my road bike (mostly used for commuting, and short-ish rides (40-50 miles/80Km).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most important to me is being able to walk in my cycling shoes BUT ALSO, be able to cycle my bike without needing to wear my cycling shoes. (Ideally, both are equally as important...ideally.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently torn between a pair of SPD OR a pair of SPD-SL pedals, and then the required shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I am looking for a pair of SPD-SL pedals, so I can ride my bike &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; without my bike shoes without killing myself. Something like the Shimano PD-R540 SPD. [1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a resonably large platform for the foot, which helps when wearing &quot;normal&quot; shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I am also looking for a pair of SPD off-road shoes, something like the Shimano M076 MTB SPD Shoes.[2]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I say these is they have some grip, and the cleat is slightly recessed, not the make/model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to my question. It can be asked in either of two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does an SPD/SPD-SL pedal exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does an SPD/SPD-SL shoe exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All advice welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/pedals/road/product.-code-PD-R540-L.-type-.pd_road.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/pedals/road/product.-code-PD-R540-L.-type-.pd_road.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31536&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31536&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T22:00:32.863" Title="Does an SPD-SL AND SPD compatible pedal/shoe exist?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9677" CreationDate="2012-05-31T19:18:50.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, no. SPD and SPD-SL are two completely different systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on what you are asking to get out of the pedal and shoe combination however, going with the shoe you specified (or similar) and an SPD pedal like the following should cover your needs nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/764688/shimano-a530-spd-sport-road-pedals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/764688/shimano-a530-spd-sport-road-pedals&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T19:18:50.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9673" CreationDate="2012-05-31T20:24:07.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are doing loaded touring on windy and/or hilly roads you may only average 8 mph, so you might be in the saddle a lot longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be comfortable on a bike for that long you need only a few things: good shorts, a good saddle, good chamois cream and reasonably strong legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Padding in normally bad for both the saddle and the chamois in your shorts as it allows pressure to be placed on more of your skin.  You really want most of the pressure to be on your Sitz bones (ischial tuberosity).  You need a good cream to keep you from chafing or getting saddle sores (boils).  The stronger your legs are the more weight you can keep on them and off your saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for training, if you can ride for 2 hour with out ANY discomfort you should not have trouble riding 100 with a higher level of discomfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I see you having is that you are going to be on the edge of your distance everyday and won't really be able to enjoy the trip.  I would cut the distance in half and enjoy myself along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4204" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T20:24:07.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8151" CreationDate="2012-05-31T23:20:10.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good resource for wheel building is &lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelspoking.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wheelspoking.com&lt;/a&gt;.  It lets you enter all the variables and then outputs spoke lengths and lacing patterns for each side of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="348" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T23:20:10.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9692" CreationDate="2012-05-31T23:45:44.287" Score="3" ViewCount="3335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently noticed that towards the end of my 6.4 mile ride to and from work, my hand and arms began to numb.  A friend recommended I try cycling gloves, so I purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002KW3HLK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; from Amazon.  They do seem to lessen the numbness, but not prevent it entirely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's more, it doesn't feel like the pads hit my palm in such a way that it removes weight from the middle channel of the wrist, though the gloves seem to fit my hands without any slack.  How do you identify the right fit for preventing ulnar numbness?  And is it ever completely preventable, or do I just need to live with it to some extent?  If I am still feeling numbness, should I send the gloves back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4130" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T20:16:18.290" Title="Good Gloves to Prevent Ulnar Numbness" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;gloves&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9681" CreationDate="2012-06-01T01:08:52.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Pearl Izumis are my current favorites. They're far from perfect, but they suck less than other gloves I've tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW -- it sounds like you may have a fit problem with the bike, not the gloves. No glove will compensate for a poorly fitting bike. Get a professional fit from a local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T01:08:52.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9702" CreationDate="2012-06-01T02:23:42.730" Score="1" ViewCount="4564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to ask if I need to replace it but I'm certain the responsible answer is yes (comments welcome). How do I find and replace the outer chainring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically find the right model or compatible part and the dummys checklist for doing the task at home, perhaps some good links. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://2011.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=cinder_cone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kona Cindercone 2011 specs&lt;/a&gt; the chainring is the 44 tooth &quot;42/34/24&quot; (incorrect spec) on a Shimano FC-M521 crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v78g3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chainring missing tooth&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice how I haven't even worn off the stickers... yes I am a newbie who either broke the tooth tumbling off an intermediate trail, or worse still hopping a curb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4205" LastEditorUserId="4205" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T04:53:00.893" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T04:53:00.893" Title="How to replace broken chainring that is missing a tooth" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9677" CreationDate="2012-06-01T02:33:14.413" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe a better option than an SPD-SL pedal would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/pedals/mountain/product.-code-PD-M324.-type-pd_mountain.html&quot;&gt;something like the PD-M324 from Shimano&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a dual sided pedal, one side flat, with no cleat required, and one side SPD. They don't make an SPD-SL version of it, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An SPD-SL pedal, because of the depth of the cleat retention area of the pedal doesn't really offer good, safe traction in trainers. of course it can be ridden that way, but it's not your safest way to go, even on gentle rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T02:33:14.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9704" CreationDate="2012-06-01T02:53:06.553" Score="1" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2008 or 2009 Titus X. I cracked one of the struts (probably the wrong term) in the rear suspension triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping I can find a salvage part (still waiting to see how expensive a new part will be if it's not covered under warranty).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought is Ebay but I thought there might be better places. Is there such a thing as a &quot;junkyard for bikes&quot; by mail? How can I find where to look for salvage repair parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-06-01T18:56:47.407" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T03:47:57.300" Title="How can I find inexpensive salvage repair (frame) parts?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9614" CreationDate="2012-06-01T03:27:40.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve heard pantyhose suggested for this purpose, though you risk looking like a bank robber and/or a lunatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also experiment with a bandana, Wild West gunslinger style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T03:27:40.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9677" CreationDate="2012-06-01T03:28:43.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Does an SPD/SPD-SL pedal exist?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the cleat and retention is mutually exclusive.  SPD is a two screw setup, while SPD-SL is a three screw setup...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Does an SPD/SPD-SL shoe exist?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes - these exist.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/shoe_test.html#mens/road/2/SH-R087G&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano SH-R087G&lt;/a&gt;, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find these lean towards road rather than offroad -- a more rigid sole, and small rubber spots to minimize the sound and harshness of walking in them.  But the cleat is not recessed, so you can't walk normally.  Offroad/casual shoes are SPD only, comfortable to walk in because the sole is more flexible and the cleat is recessed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pricey, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.zero&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Speedplay Zero&lt;/a&gt; system might be worth considering.  Totally different cleat from the other systems mentioned (uses the old Time, four screw setup), there are Speedplay specific shoes so the cleat is more shallow than SPD-SL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T03:28:43.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9660" CreationDate="2012-06-01T03:46:43.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck with the Park GP-2's being extremely durable, lasting as long as the tube. Back when I was using them frequently, I think I was running somewhere in the 70-90 PSI range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T03:46:43.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="530" CreationDate="2012-06-01T03:50:48.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/super-patch-kit-gp-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park GP-2 patch kit&lt;/a&gt; and have found them extremely durable, lasting the lifetime of the tube. This is with 28-32mm tires and pressures up to 90 PSI or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T02:51:12.963" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T02:51:12.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6753" CreationDate="2012-06-01T03:57:24.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had repeated flats in the past, and the culprit turned out to be one of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crud (tiny glass shards, rocks, etc.) embedded in the tire itself. The way to solve this is to carefully inspect the tire inside and out and remove the debris. This includes prying open each small crack or hole to see if there is debris still inside. (Also an excellent preventative measure.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crud inside the tire (i.e., between the tire and the tube). The way to solve this is to (carefully, since these things can be sharp) examine the inside of the tire, perhaps by feel, to locate and remove all debris. I often wipe out the tire with a kerchief or something before putting the new tube in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as others have noted, quality tires help a lot. You want tires designed for durability, not speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T03:57:24.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9681" CreationDate="2012-06-01T04:07:14.493" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little more information would be helpful. Are you riding a road bike or hybrid, or what? How tall are you? What is your inseam? What size is the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without this information, the best I can do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) 6-7 miles isn't a long ride. If you're getting numbness in such a short distance, something is probably wrong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It could be the fit of your bike. Hands get numb when they carry too much weight. If your bike is not the right size, or if it is set up incorrectly, this may cause you to put too much weight on your hands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) It could be your fitness. If your core (abdominal and/or back muscles) are weak, you could be compensating by putting too much weight on your hands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) It could be a combination of #2 and #3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be done to fix this? It depends on the cause. See if your bike is the right size for your body. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Online fit computers can help with this&lt;/a&gt;. In addition, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/box-jumps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;consider strengthening your core&lt;/a&gt;. If you ride a hybrid, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/product/gp1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;consider some new grips&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T20:16:18.290" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T20:16:18.290" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9673" CreationDate="2012-06-01T04:24:17.447" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I confess, I have not done this kind of ride. But I know a few folks who have done some long ones: Vancouver, BC to San Diego; San Francisco to the Mexican Border; the 999 Ride, and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will tell you a few things they passed along to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get some really nasty saddle sores from this kind of riding. Make sure you have some really good shorts or bibs, and some good chamois cream. Once this kind of injury has occurred, it doesn't heal overnight. It also may help to get out of salty, sweaty kit as quickly as possible, and rinse/wash both your body and your kit. Some people are more sensitive to salt on their skin than others; if you're sensitive, take good care of your skin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need to train hard for this. Since your link specifies that the ride is self-supported, you should train as you plan to ride. If you plan to carry panniers on your bike, for example, you should train with these. Fully loaded, even if you use bricks or weights or something.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle time is essential, but you can use short-but-intense rides to help train. The people I know who do these long-distance rides know every steep, hilly route around here, and they ride them. Frequently. As in 250 miles per week (do the math on that, if you're averaging 10 mph because of all the climbing, that is a lot of hours on the bike).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plan on carrying spare tubes, a spare tire, and extra spokes, especially if you have funky wheels that use proprietary spokes (Easton and Mavic come to mind). Make sure your wheels can do this kind of loaded touring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not mention any particular experience with this kind of riding, so you may want to do some shorter rides-- 500 miles or whatever-- before attempting such a long, hard ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T14:24:14.553" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T14:24:14.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9641" CreationDate="2012-06-01T04:33:40.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride with a bunch of old guys. They are all white guys who grew up in the midwest, working on farms, and spending a lot of time in the sun when the weather permitted it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is interesting to me that all of them are fastidious when it comes to sun protection. They wear sunscreen and long sleeves when it can be done comfortably. They also can tell you about regular visits to the dermatologist, where they go to fight skin cancer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a few threads for you to read and ponder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/721745-For-the-love-of-God-NOW-will-you-wear-the-sunscreen&quot;&gt;For the love of God, NOW will you wear the sunscreen?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/651681-Sun-Protection-from-a-Dermatologist&quot;&gt;Sun Protection from a Dermatologist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T04:33:40.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9684" CreationDate="2012-06-01T06:01:05.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not positive, but it looks like you can replace it without even pulling the crank. Just remove the 4 allens and slide it up over the crank arm then just do everything in reverse putting it back on. Make sure to drop the chain off the whole thing to keep it out of the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case is you will have to pull the crank. If so, there is a chance you will need a crank-puller (ex: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/Lclgtv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/Lclgtv&lt;/a&gt;), some cranks use tapering to keep from wiggling loose, and since I dont see any locking bolts from this angle I will assume that is the case. You will only need to use it to pull the crank and when you tighten it back on it will basically self adjust (you will want to check it a few times the next couple of sessions). You might be able to take it into a bike shop to have them pull it, I know the shop I worked in would have done it for free in a matter of seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T06:01:05.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9661" CreationDate="2012-06-01T06:25:30.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used shin guards since the 1980s, growing up in Hawaii and now riding in Utah (both get pretty hot) and I found that wearing knee high socks help with the &quot;heat&quot; factor, but even then, as long as I am wearing shorts, I don't even think about my legs being warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/L188ZV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LizardSkin shinguards&lt;/a&gt; for about 15 years now and will continue to use them as long as I ride! (I am still riding the same pair, they are &lt;strike&gt;frekn&lt;/strike&gt; very durable!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the shin-whacks nothing protects better, they have a V-shaped insert that virtually eliminates any hit. And if you want to ride without that layer of protection (or to wash it) you can take that insert out really easily. Even without the insert, it has a pretty durable front with some padding that would help with any sticks or whatever slapping you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The neoprene has holes for ventilation but not really a big help, but the back gives me a gap of about 2 inches, and I have skinny legs. I have ridden a lot of downhill trails and they have helped a lot through the brush. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They even come down low enough to give your ankles some protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T07:40:22.403" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T07:40:22.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9488" CreationDate="2012-06-01T07:38:35.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can stick just about any tube into any tire. Some of the weight freaks will buy a 24&quot; for a 26&quot; wheel, I even had a friend use a mo-ped tube in a BMX tire, just shoved it all in there. It works, but the problems you will have are not worth using them for anything more than a temporary &quot;emergency&quot; fix until you can find the proper size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a tube too big will cause pinching and could result in a snakebite like flat. Using one too small will stretch it thin in places and might result in herniation which could lead to a blow out (very bad if you are going fast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walmart is convenient and cheep but sometimes they use inferior suppliers and I have bought a few tubes that have separated at the seams. I prefer to pay the extra $2 and go to an actual bike shop and get the better tubes, the pain saved in doing it right the first time is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are looking for the numbers you will want to make sure that you are getting &quot;700 x 35-45c&quot;. Some tubes can be used on more than one size of tire, just be sure that number is somewhere on the box, and also why going to a real bike shop is useful, they can make sure you get the proper size. Also, as you can see in the first picture, most tubes will have the size printed on it, usually in white, the numbers in that second picture are not usually what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T07:38:35.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-01T12:45:23.537" Score="8" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/711134/bell-metropolis-bike-helmet&quot;&gt;Bell Metro&lt;/a&gt;  helmet. It's fine but even with all the holes, it is very hot. It also causes skin irritation on my forehead and causes (sorry people) pimples on my scalp. Are there specific features that I should look for to have a cooler (as in temperature) and less irritation experience for my head, as it exists under the helmet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3216" LastEditorUserId="3216" LastEditDate="2012-06-01T17:47:46.403" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T02:06:29.553" Title="What features should I look for in a cool helmet?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9699" CreationDate="2012-06-01T12:55:36.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not necessarily about how many holes your helmet has as opposed to how the air flows through. It's important to try them on before you buy them, so I would look for the lightest helmet that still provides a good fit with comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your helmet is causing you irritation it may be fitted improperly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T12:55:36.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9625" CreationDate="2012-06-01T13:45:14.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not I thought I was having crank issues on a new bike with Ultegra 6700 turns out my mavic front wheel had loosey goosey front spokes...once that was tightened up the sound went away...it took me a while to get to the bottom of it because it only made the noise when I pedalled medium strength. I figure that with the side to side torque it made the noise? All I know is it is gone! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4208" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T13:45:14.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9684" CreationDate="2012-06-01T13:49:57.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just buy a 104 BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter) chainring with the same number of teeth (probably a 42 tooth on this model).  Try searching for '104bcd 42t' on google.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unbolt the chainring bolts (you may need a chainring nut wrench to hold the bolts while loosening or tightening them like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/chainring-nut-wrench-cnw-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park CNW-2C&lt;/a&gt;) and then put the new ring on and bolt it back up.  You may need to remove the crank to get this on, but usually you don't have to worry about that for larger outer chainrings, so I think you'll be able to skip that step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T13:49:57.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2012-06-01T13:55:56.820" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hand brakes are great for emergency stopping but horrible when you just want to SLOW DOWN your speed to round a corner.  The bike jerks to an abrupt halt and you can come crashing down. I feel more in control with coaster brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4209" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T13:55:56.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9686" CreationDate="2012-06-01T14:02:36.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this bike you may be able to get replacement seatstays or chainstays from the manufacturer.  See their frame parts section of their store or give them a call.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.titusti.com/category-s/1836.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://shop.titusti.com/category-s/1836.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T14:02:36.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9641" CreationDate="2012-06-01T14:33:39.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use long sleeves to shield myself from the sun during long exposures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/794446/rei-sahara-tech-long-sleeve-shirt-mens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lightweight trekking shirt&lt;/a&gt; from REI to be a good fit, it dries quickly and is rather vented and the arms are made to be rolled up and buttoned to stay in place when you don't want the long sleeves. I used this on my last 4 day tour for almost the entire ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002KW3I1Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pearl Izumi&lt;/a&gt; makes sun sleeves which can protect you if you want a more traditional racer style look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Your Head you can get skullcaps with a flap on the back of the neck like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walzcaps.com/caps_skullcaps_helmetliners.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; walz caps skullcap&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002IY8DBE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Halo Headband Solar Skull Cap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Legs you can get &lt;a href=&quot;http://davidsworld.com/product/pearl-izumi-sun-knees-162583-1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UV leg protectors&lt;/a&gt;,  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.studiovelocycling.com/products/2xu-compression-leg-sleeves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SPF 50+ compression leg covers, &lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://davidsworld.com/product/pearl-izumi-sun-knees-162583-1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pearl Izumi Sun Knees&lt;/a&gt; to protect yourself from the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-06-01T15:17:30.477" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T15:17:30.477" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9699" CreationDate="2012-06-01T15:24:20.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skin irritation could be heat and / or materials. Or both. My son gets rashes and bumps from synthetic fabrics on his skin in the summer, but not winter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a '&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1019086_-1_400090__400090&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;do rag&lt;/a&gt;'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a better vented helmet will also add to the cool air coming in. Stick with lighter colors to reflect the sun more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-06-01T15:27:38.853" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T15:27:38.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-01T17:24:19.410" Score="4" ViewCount="4088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disassambled/assambled rear wheel hub, but now rear wheel is not turning freely, what have i done wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4211" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-06-01T17:31:55.593" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T22:07:13.037" Title="I assambled rear wheel hub, but now rear wheel is not turning freely" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9707" CreationDate="2012-06-01T17:28:30.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely tightened the cones too tight.  Read up on the proper procedure for cone adjustment and be sure to grease it up well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T17:28:30.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2012-06-01T17:55:34.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't want hydraulic disc brakes on a road bike due to the chance of failure due to heat buildup on long descents caused by boiling of the hydraulic fluid.  See related article at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/02/14/road-bike-disc-brakes-are-coming-but-will-they-work/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeRumour&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to ride disc on a road bike, I'd keep it mechanical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, due to recent changes in UCI regulations allowing disc brakes for cyclocross racing, many cyclocross bikes have been adapted for disc brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will probably drive the evolution of lighter, more road friendly disc brakes in the next couple years.  It will happen, there is a demand, but there are still some technical hurdles for parts manufactures to overcome before it will be readily adopted.  Also, until it's UCI legal in road racing, a lot of big names will avoid touching disc brakes on their higher end offerings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T17:55:34.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9711" CreationDate="2012-06-01T20:10:49.053" Score="3" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have decided to buy an older worn down bike and fix it up as my commuter.  What things should I look for?  I know I should check the frame for rust.  But, that's about it.  For example, is it easy to get a good condition cassette for an older bike?  Or, should I try to find a bike that already has one?  Advice like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2528" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T06:03:32.663" Title="What to Look for In a Fixer Upper" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9710" CreationDate="2012-06-01T20:12:46.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for something that has easily available parts.  If you buy a bike that's too old, then new parts won't fit on it properly, and you'll have to either find old parts in good condition, or pay more for parts because they aren't made in high volume anymore.  I guess if you're talking about a commuter, then it's going to be a road bike. Make sure that it has 700c wheels, or can accomodate them.  Otherwise, finding 27 inch wheels and tires can be a bit of a pain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-06-01T20:18:19.943" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T20:18:19.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9710" CreationDate="2012-06-01T21:25:32.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rust on the frame will be the least of your worries. By the time a frame shows significant rust, all the moving parts will be completely unusable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if the rims are true. On a lot of old bikes, the wheels are crooked as hell. Lift the bike, spin the wheel, and watch the space between the rim and a brake pad. A little wobble is fine, but if it's more than a few millimeters, it's probably beyond fixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bearings: hubs, bottom bracket, pedals, headset. Do they spin freely? Is there any play? Do they make noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the condition of the chain. You're probably thinking: &quot;a chain is easy to replace, what do I care if it's a little rusty?&quot; Well, if it's so easy, then why didn't the previous owner do it? It's an indication that all the other stuff  wasn't maintained either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes. Are the pads worn down? Do they move freely when you squeeze the lever? Are the pads rubbing on the tires (if so, replace the tires immediately!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires. Check for worn tread, also check for dry and cracking rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T21:25:32.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9663" CreationDate="2012-06-01T22:00:05.050" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note the technical term for what you are calling &quot;hairs&quot; is &quot;vent spews.&quot;&lt;em&gt;[1]&lt;/em&gt; As the name indicates, they are a consequence of an important detail of the tire fabrication process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While liquid rubber is being injected or otherwise forced into the tire mold, air bubbles can form in the rubber or between the rubber and the mold. These bubbles can cause the finished tire to be weakened or malformed. To prevent that, tire manufacturers place vent holes in the mold to allow the air to escape under pressure. Necessarily, some rubber will get forced into these holes, forming the vent spews upon curing (which is the process by which the tire rubber converts from liquid to solid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These vent spews serve no useful purpose in the finished tire; conversely, they can be removed without consequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[1]&lt;/strong&gt; for some citations, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ask.com/vehicles/name-little-pins-rubber-new-tires-7d59430847263653&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this ask.com post&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/explainlikeimfive/comments/26urmn/eli5_why_do_tires_have_little_rubber_hairs_on_the/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this reddit post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2018-05-28T14:46:04.393" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T14:46:04.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9707" CreationDate="2012-06-01T22:07:13.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are unfortunately a dozen different things that can go wrong.  First on the list, as mentioned, is over-tightened cones.  But beyond that it's easy to get a spacer in the wrong place to that, eg, the freehub rubs against the hub body, or you can simply get a foreign object (eg a washer) jammed in between components somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T22:07:13.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9710" CreationDate="2012-06-01T22:30:55.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A badly rusted chain is a sign that the bike has been left outside for extended periods with minimal maintenance, and is therefore a bad sign.  A little rust on the chain, or on scratched spots on the frame, however, is not a deal-breaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spin all the bearings and make sure they turn easily and smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that brakes and shifters operate -- the cables aren't rusted to where they don't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn to observe the rear dropout as an indicator of bike quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T22:30:55.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9681" CreationDate="2012-06-02T00:18:46.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/07713&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;These cycling gloves&lt;/a&gt;.  They seem to have much more padding than the ones you linked to.  They are also available quite cheaply ($15-$20) if you can find a shop that carries them. I've done some pretty long rides in them, and I've only experienced numbness on the longer rides. I agree with the others though, you shouldn't have so much numbness after only a 10 km bike ride.  You may be putting too much weight on your hands, possibly due to a bad fitting bike.  If you ride a road bike, try changing your hand positions as your ride. Don't stay down in the drops all the time. Using a variety of hand positions can help to stop numbness from occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-06-02T00:57:19.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T00:57:19.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9686" CreationDate="2012-06-02T03:47:57.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check for a local Cycle-Recycle or for one of the many charity bike centers.Some of the charity centers teach local youth bike repairs and they earn a bike in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T03:47:57.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9615" CreationDate="2012-06-02T05:38:21.640" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with cross-chaining is that you put more stress on the chain which causes wear and tear on cassette teeth, eventually leading to the chain slipping gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;chain line&lt;/a&gt; is one factor.  The chain should ideally run in a plane from the front derailleur teeth back to the rear derailleur.  It shouldn't be forced into a line on the teeth, and then angle as soon as it clears the teeth to get to the cassette as happens when cross-chaining because that causes teeth to wear.  You're not going to fix the chain line except by making the chain and gear spacing narrower which requires weaker chains at a given price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Chain-Length-Basics-2012.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rear derailleur cage&lt;/a&gt; determines how much slack it can pick up in the chain.  If you size your chain big-to-big, and have a derailleur capable of picking up the slack then shifting into big-big shouldn't do damage.  Shimano XT rear derailleurs have a 43 tooth capacity which should cover just about anything, but I had a touring bike with a wide range of gears that exhausted it.  I managed to wedge things pretty well when my shifters got pushed into awkward positions on a train and I started riding without checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T05:38:21.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9710" CreationDate="2012-06-02T06:03:32.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the advice given by the other responders is sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll tell you about a bike that I got off Craigslist before I really knew anything about bikes. It was an early-80's Trek road bike. Externally, it looked OK. Some paint scrapes, a little rust-- on top of the top tube, around the cable-routing braze-ons, for example-- but it was a nice bike, back in the day. Expensive when first sold, and not quite cheap when I got it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was wrong with it? The wheels were true, but they had a hop, like a high point (the rims were out-of-round). The bottom bracket turned out to be shot. There was internal rust in one of the seat stays that prevented the Weigles Frame Saver I sprayed in there from passing all the way through. The saddle was cr@p. In order to get the bike ready to ride, I had to get new wheels, a new bottom bracket, new cranks (I stripped the threads on the non-drive-side crank when trying to remove it), new tires, and a new saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I learned from the experience, just like I learned a lot from my first car, which was a really bad car from the mid-1970's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a road bike, you should keep in mind that not only the wheel size has changed (from 27&quot; to 700c), but &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#standard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;so has the spacing between the rear dropouts&lt;/a&gt;. So unless you really appreciate vintage road bikes, you probably want to stick to something with at least 8 cogs on the rear cassette. That's not to say that all road bikes with fewer cogs are not good. I have a 1983-vintage road bike with a Japanese frame, really nice quality, and 27&quot; wheels which I have put about 1400 miles on. It's a sweet bike. But the freewheel has 7 cogs, and if I ever want to upgrade it to brifters (from downtube friction shifters) it won't be hassle-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a mountain bike or a hybrid, you should know that vintage freewheels are getting expensive, so I would probably be looking for something with at least 8 cogs on the cassette, as well. You can get some really good buys on 1990's vintage mountain bikes off Craigslist, especially if you're patient. Too, early mountain bikes had bolt-on wheels, which means you need to carry a wrench in case you flat. So if I were buying one, I'd probably look for one with quick-release skewers instead of bolt-on wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want quick responses to particular bikes listed online, you may want to try posting links here or over &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php/181-Classic-amp-Vintage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;at BikeForums in the C&amp;amp;V forum&lt;/a&gt;. C&amp;amp;V gets a lot of traffic, and there are some very, very knowledgeable folks there. Were you to post links to, say, half-a-dozen bikes you're looking at on eBay or Craigslist, you'll get some quick feedback regarding what is wise and what is unwise. In this way, you can benefit from some of the experience of more seasoned folks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T06:03:32.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9724" CreationDate="2012-06-02T09:40:51.780" Score="15" ViewCount="54956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found myself in need of a bike, but buying a new one is out of the question. So two possibilities remain: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy a used one for a low price;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fix one of my old bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here comes another problem (and my question): how old is too old? I mean, apart from comparing the price, how do I know that fixing a bike is just a waste of time and money because it's simply too old?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I consider for changing my choice from &quot;fix it&quot; to &quot;buy it&quot;? Rust? Other things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4171" LastEditorUserId="4171" LastEditDate="2012-06-04T22:12:43.123" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T20:17:34.280" Title="How do I know if it's worth restoring my bike?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9720" CreationDate="2012-06-02T11:59:57.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such thing as &quot;too old&quot; technically speaking -- however 2 things worth considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;too old because out of fashion&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;too old and hard to get compatible components (for example I have 14-years old bike, and I cannot get a clamp for seatpost -- nowadays the diameter is bigger)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, since we solved &quot;too old&quot; thing -- there is only one issue -- it is simply damaged bicycle. For example if you are looking for a frame only, broken handlebar is OK, but if there is corrosion on the frame it is no-go deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have to &quot;simply&quot; to look at all signs of damage at those parts which are important for you. Or take a risk, and simply assume &quot;3-years old bike cannot be damaged too much&quot; (which does not have to be the truth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to change your bicycle entirely, like from 26&quot; to 29&quot;, I would fix my own one. But that's just me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T11:59:57.477" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9720" CreationDate="2012-06-02T12:11:25.807" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is, unfortunately, a degree of &quot;planned obsolescence&quot; with bikes.  For better or for worse (I haven't figured out which yet), bike technology (which used to move at glacial speed) now turns over every 5 years or so, and once you get about 3 generations back (ca 15 years) parts become much harder to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of condition, it somewhat depends on your skill level for making repairs -- a full cycle shop rehab will cost you several hundred dollars, making a &quot;bargain&quot; much less so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal bike to find is a reasonably good quality one (that fits you!) that was ridden twice and then stored in a dry garage or basement for 10 years.  You'll need new tires and some lube on the chain and cables, but otherwise you're in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T12:11:25.807" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9727" CreationDate="2012-06-02T12:18:02.523" Score="3" ViewCount="1067" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those two grips are thicker than usual grips, however so far I cannot find what is the diameter (external) of them (Dual Compound version for both). Maybe we have some owners of them, who would will posting such info here. Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.lizardskins.com/products/dual-compound-northshore-grip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.lizardskins.com/products/dual-compound-northshore-grip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.lizardskins.com/products/dual-compound-logo-grip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.lizardskins.com/products/dual-compound-logo-grip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T08:07:32.133" Title="What is the diameter of Lizard Skins Logo and NorthShore grips?" Tags="&lt;grips&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9720" CreationDate="2012-06-02T15:48:01.623" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I volunteer at a community bike shop. We take old donated bikes and fix them up for sale, so I have a lot of experience with this exact dilemma. Here are a few reasons why I will stop working on a bike I am refurbishing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame has worse than just surface rust: i.e. extensive pitting and / or holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seized parts, especially if they need replacing. Sometimes a seized seatpost isn't so bad, as long as the bike is sold along with that information. However if the bottom bracket needs service and can't be removed, the frame is scrap. The same goes for quill stems that can't be removed, locking the fork into the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged threads. If it's not possible to rethread an interface that has been wrecked (e.g. cross threaded), scrap the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bent or cracked tubing. The odd dent is fine, but if a bike has obviously been bent in an accident I scrap the frame. Same goes for tubes with any cracks in them, even if it's fixable. Obviously any carbon frame with cracks is worthless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also add that the original quality of the bike plays into these determinations as well. I will spend a lot less time working on the seized seatpost of an old BSO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also point out that a lot of these issues can be solved with extreme effort, e.g. replacing tubes in the frame. It just isn't worth it in this context and I suspect the same guideline applies for most folks tinkering at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T15:48:01.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9286" CreationDate="2012-06-02T21:35:17.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;buy a better seat, I have a CUBE Agree and needed a seat upgrade, a good quality, comfortable seat is an important upgrade as a rider gets more serious on any bike. Look at specialist manufacturers and web forums on this issue, it will narrow down a lot your choices. I now have a '2012 Fizik Aliante VS'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4216" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T21:35:17.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5264" CreationDate="2012-06-03T02:45:13.710" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you only know the pitch of the chain (standard for most bicycles) and number of teeth, then you can fully describe the circle (and n-gon) &lt;strong&gt;through the pin centers only&lt;/strong&gt;. I will do my best to do the math formulas in a readable way with text, but I will fully describe each of the four circles/n-gons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nJQeF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chainring Circles&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;n = number of teeth&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;L = chain pitch (link length) (12.7mm for most bicycles)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See below for valley, roller top, and tooth top measurements. Note that tooth tops can vary between manufacturers and &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; vary throughout the life of the ring. The alternate method at the bottom is probably the easiest method to use for frame clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you know the pitch of the chain (1/2&amp;quot; or 12.7mm is a 40 series chain typically used on a bicycle), the chain-pins will form a regular n-gon (a polygon with n-sides of equal length), with each side being equal to 12.7mm. The formula for the perimeter of this n-gon is rather simple (below) and would be fine for most approximations. Note that this is also equal to the chain length that would be wrapped around the ring (the chain would follow the n-gon, not the circle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Perimeter of n-gon made by pin centers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perimeter of n-gon = L * n = 12.7 * n mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is not entirely accurate to describe the &lt;em&gt;circle&lt;/em&gt; through the pin centers. The more accurate formulas are below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Circle through pin centers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;circumference = pi * L / (sin (180 / n)) = 39.8982 / (sin (180 / n)) mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;radius = L / (2 sin (180 / n)) = 6.35 / sin (180 / n) mm = 'pcRad' (pin center radius)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;diameter = L / sin (180 / n) = 12.7 / sin (180 / n) mm = 'pcD' (pin center diameter)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we will need additional information to describe the two related circles / n-gons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the valley floors and roller tops, we need to know the radius or diameter of the chain roller around the pin. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roller_chain&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roller_chain&lt;/a&gt;, a 40 series chain has a roller-diameter of 0.312&amp;quot; (7.92mm). Since the distance from pin-center to the bottom of the valley is the radius of the roller:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Circle / n-gon about valley floors&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;rRad = roller radius (3.96 mm for most bicycles)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perimeter of n-gon of valley floors = 2 * n * (pcRad - rRad) * sin (180 / n)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;= 2n * (pcRad - 3.96) * sin (180 / n) mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;floorRadius = pcRad - rRad = pcRad - 3.96 mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;floorDiameter = 2 * fRad = pcD - 2 * rRad = pcD - 7.92 mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Circle / n-gon of the tops of the chain rollers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perimeter of n-gon of roller tops = 2 * n * (pcRad + rRad) * sin (180 / n)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;= 2n * (pcRad + 3.96) * sin (180 / n) mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;rollerTopRadius = pcRad + rRad = pcRad + 3.96 mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;rollerTopDiameter = 2 * rtRad = pcD + 2 * rRad = pcD + 7.92 mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;rollerTopCircumference = pi * rtD = pi * (pcD + 2 * rRad) = pi * (pcD + 7.92) mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for the final circle / n-gon to describe, we need the tooth height above the pin centers. I would expect this to be positive on a new chain ring and negative on a worn one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Circle / n-gon of the tooth tips&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;t = tooth tip height above pin centers (negative if below)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perimeter of n-gon of tooth tips = 2 * n * (pcRad + t) * sin (180 / n)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tipRadius = pcRad + t&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tipDiameter = 2 * tRad = pcD + 2 * t&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tipCircumference = pi * tD = pi * (pcD + 2 * t)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, to make this computation a bit easier (yet slightly less accurate on a worn chain ring), you can measure your own individual tooth spacing. Ideally they would be slightly longer than the chain pitch, but that will change as the chain wears:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Circle / n-gon of the tooth tips - Alternate&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tSpacing = average distance between tooth tips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perimeter of n-gon of tooth tips = n * tSpacing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tipRadius = tSpacing / (2 sin (180 / n))&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tipDiameter = 2 * tRad = tSpacing / sin (180 / n)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tipCircumference = pi * tD = pi * tSpacing / (sin (180 / n))&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T04:24:23.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9723" CreationDate="2012-06-03T08:07:32.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Lizard Skins Lock-on Logo grip is 31.06mm in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Lizard Skins Lock-on North Shore grip is 30.94mm in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both were measured using a digital caliper, and assuming a small difference in diameter due to texture, they are nominally 31mm diameter grips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinner Lizard skins grips measure approximately 29-30mm, again depending on texture. For instance, the Peaty measured 30mm, and the Charger measured 29mm, but was difficult to get a consistent measurement from because of the type of surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T08:07:32.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9729" CreationDate="2012-06-03T11:14:04.403" Score="2" ViewCount="583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to refurbish a bike that I was given, it has a (not sure what brand) coaster brake, which according to sheldon brown's site has a peculiar kind of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;cone nut&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. The wheel might be 10 years old, it's hard to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I've been able to remove the otherwise butchered nuts (see below) using a tap &amp;amp; hammer and an axle vice, now that they are free I'd like to know what they are, so that I can replace them, do they have a special name?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only ever seen mention of cone nuts resembling a regular washer, but with two flat sides (sorry for the poor explanation) - these that this bike is fitted with are something different, see below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IuW6T.png&quot; alt=&quot;cone nut?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies for my dodgy graphics work, the middle is threaded, and sized to fix the (slightly larger than the wheel nut thread) centre of the coaster brake axel, the outsides smooth (very much resembling a washer) except for the two grooves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entre part is perhaps 20mm in diameter; unfortunately my bright idea of drawing the part, and then using Google image search has failed me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I'm sure this particular bolt is a strange european relic designed as some kind of &quot;security&quot; bolt; not dissimilar to the Apple style 5-point start, or similar, to discourage people against fiddling with their coaster brake. But I would really like to rebuild the brake!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I could replace them with regular &quot;cone nuts&quot; - that is the ones with two flat sides, but the term &quot;cone nut&quot; seems to refer more to the purpose than the design of the nut itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All information appreciated, thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="388" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T13:42:34.097" Title="Replacing 'cone nuts' on a damaged coaster brake" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9728" CreationDate="2012-06-03T11:54:10.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term &quot;cone nut&quot;, on a bike, generally refers to the nuts that comprise the outer half of a bearing race (the inner half being formed into the wheel hub or whatever).  The &quot;cone&quot; side, which faces inward, has a concave profile so that the balls will roll smoothly in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell what you have from your description.  I do vaguely recall some cases of nuts on coaster brakes with slots like that, apparently intended to be operated by a &quot;spanner wrench&quot; (which is a redundant expression in the UK, but means a wrench with pins rather than flats in the US).  Presumably this allowed the nut to be more readily adjusted while everything was assembled.  (Current bikes require a thin &quot;cone wrench&quot; for the same adjustment.)  If this is all it is then a hex-sided/flat-sided nut (with similar thread/profile) should work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen, internal to some coaster hubs, various plates and nuts with slots or teeth, intended to engage mirror-image features of the hub or an internal rotating piece.  These would be quite specific to the particular hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it may be that this nut is a cone nut for internal bearings, such that the nut cannot be reached for adjustment with a regular wrench (even a thin one).  In that case you'd have to figure out something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's remarkably hard to find a good image of a cone nut.  Here is the best I could find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/arkon.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one has a sheet metal dust shield fastened to the outer diameter -- the nut itself is inside of the inner flange of the shield.  On the back side is a regular (though fairly thin) hex nut or (more often) a cylindrical body with two flats, sized to take a thin open-end wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It should be noted that it's become common to refer to any nut that secures a bike bearing as a &quot;cone nut&quot;, even though it may be securing a sealed bearing cartridge and hence lack the conical extension.  This adds a lot to the confusion.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-06-03T13:42:34.097" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T13:42:34.097" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-03T15:08:55.913" Score="3" ViewCount="6418" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took the front wheel off my mountain bike and the hydraulic disc pads closed. I’ve opened them back up and replaced the wheel. However, the pads seem to now be closing up all the time and binding on the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this happening, and how can I resolve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4222" LastEditorUserId="1789" LastEditDate="2012-06-03T19:05:55.567" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T21:30:51.433" Title="Hydraulic disc pads binding on disc" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9749" CreationDate="2012-06-03T17:35:59.943" Score="6" ViewCount="2006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a touring bike with road-style Shimano brifters, which I love. I'm also very intrigued by internal-gear hubs, but these hubs seem to focus on rotary or push-button shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to run an internal-gear hub, especially one of the 11-, 12-, or 14-speed ones, with road-style brifters? And if so, what parts would be needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T17:51:58.987" Title="Is it possible to use road-style brifters with an internal gear hub?" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2012-06-03T19:45:50.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't a &quot;need&quot; so much as a &quot;nice-to-have,&quot; but I certainly appreciated having handy-wipes (alcohol-soaked individually-packed wipes) along after fixing a flat on my trail ride last Friday. Also useful if whatever you're looking at is so grimy/dusty you can't see or handle it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If weight/bulk is not at a premium, in the States it's possible to buy a can or square of diaper wipes. Same idea, different branding, works just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that your first-aid kit has these already; in that case, just keep 'em stocked!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T19:45:50.340" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-03T19:45:50.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2012-06-03T22:24:56.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old question, but it was recently bumped up. Here are a few more suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fiberfix.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FiberFix&lt;/a&gt; Kevlar emergency replacement spoke.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greasemonkeywipes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grease Monkey Wipes&lt;/a&gt; for clean-up after a greasy repair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tire boot to put between the tube &amp;amp; the tire if the tire casing gets cut. In a pinch, a candy wrapper, gu packet, or paper money will also work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't rely only on CO2 cartridges, carry a pump as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+1 on the zip ties and power link recommendations. I once saw a photo of an emergency field repair to a broken chainstay using only Popsicle sticks and zip ties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T22:24:56.680" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-03T22:24:56.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9752" CreationDate="2012-06-03T23:05:29.983" Score="19" ViewCount="12536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Jamis Aurora with a 52/42/30 triple and an 11-32 cassette in the back. 30x32 (25.3 gear inches) being the lowest gear is frustrating for the hilly terrain where I live (e.g., 7% grade average over several miles, with higher local steepness), and so I'd like to lower my gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like advice on how to most simply do this. The basic problem is that replacing any given part appears to have cascading compatibility issues which may or may not be solvable, and I'm becoming confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do use the full range up to 52x11 (127.6 gear inches), but only on descents that are fast anyway, so I am happy to lose the higher gears and coast instead. There is essentially no level terrain where I live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Relevant specs&lt;/strong&gt; (all parts stock in 2004):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankset: Truvativ Touro 52/42/30, 130/74mm BCD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front derailleur: Sora 28.6mm, clamped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette: SRAM 11-32&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear derailleur: Deore SGS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters: Tiagra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom bracket: TruVativ sealed cartridge, 68 x 113mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Options that I've found so far:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Add a larger cog in back&lt;/strong&gt;, such as the new &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/shimano-hg-61-12-36-9-speed-cassette-3054.htm&quot;&gt;Shimano 12-36 cassette&lt;/a&gt;. As far as I can tell, this will require a &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/shimano-slx-rd-m662-rear-derailleur-sgs-shadow-type-3061.htm&quot;&gt;new rear derailleur&lt;/a&gt; and a new chain, but that's it. This makes the lowest gear &lt;strong&gt;30x36 (22.5 gear inches), 12.5% lower&lt;/strong&gt;, and the highest 52x12 (117 gear inches). A downside is the excessive size of the rear cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replace the crankset,&lt;/strong&gt; for example with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/sugino-xd500-110-74mm-48-36-24-teeth-445.htm&quot;&gt;48-36-24&lt;/a&gt;. This makes the lowest gear &lt;strong&gt;24x32 (20.3 gear inches), 25% lower&lt;/strong&gt;, and the highest 48x11 (118 gear inches). At first glance, this one is the most appealing, but it seems to also raise the thorniest compatibility questions; the ones I'm aware of so far are (a) finding a front derailleur which is compatible with both my road shifters and the smaller large chainring (&lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/ird-alpina-d-compact-road-triple-front-derailleur-2435.htm&quot;&gt;one possibility&lt;/a&gt;), and (b) differing chainline offsets of road and MTB cranksets.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swap in a lower granny chainring&lt;/strong&gt;, say 24 teeth, resulting in a 52/42/24 crankset. My concerns here are (a) whether my derailleur can handle the 18-tooth jump between low and middle and/or the lowness of the granny gear, (b) the awkwardly wide jump between low and middle (75%, or about 5 sprockets), and (c) retaining very high gears that are feasible only for making a fast descent faster.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swap in 3 new chainrings.&lt;/strong&gt; This seems to raise similar concerns to item 2. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T07:35:34.617" Title="What is the simplest way to lower the gearing on my touring bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9731" CreationDate="2012-06-04T05:38:49.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An ugly solution would be to build a cable pull adapter for one lever, then use the other  lever to pull that back and forth. That would give you more cable travel and more indents, so you might be able to get the indexing to support more gears. I fear that some hubs have variable travel between gears, though, so that's not guaranteed. If it does work you're going to have the ungainly adapter hanging round somewhere on the bike where it can move. Which is going to be messy and I'm not convinced of its longevity. But it would be easy enough to make one and see whether it works, assuming you already own the hub/wheel to test with. If you do, I suggest building one and seeing what happens. Maybe even build a double  beam version to start with rather than machining up a travel adapter. Then slide the cables along the beams until you find an arrangement that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/42gTP.png&quot; alt=&quot;diagram of double beam adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Rohloff, as heltonbiker said in the comments, you have two cables and need to pull in both directions so that's not going to work. The twist shifter rotates 273°, so a brifter would need closer indents (less rotation) or a very long travel (from almost hard against the handlebar on top, to the same underneath it. Various people have tried to make adapters to fit Rohloff shifters to drop bars, but they (IMO) don't work very well. Broadly, they either mount the Rohloff twist grip on the end of the drop bars in a slightly odd position that leaves cables wandering everywhere; or they rely on what amounts to a straight bar with drop bar bar-ends fitted. Either way, twist shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T05:38:49.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9734" CreationDate="2012-06-04T11:27:25.740" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is that there is no simple answer. You have a triple, and a decent gear range on the cassette, so there is no obvious direction to go which you can use to say, &quot;This is the right way. Do this.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of the options you show should work. If it were me, I'd do the first one: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Add a larger cog in back, such as the new Shimano 12-36 cassette. As far as I can tell, this will require a new rear derailleur and a new chain, but that's it. This makes the lowest gear 30x36 (22.5 gear inches), 12.5% lower, and the highest 52x12 (117 gear inches). A downside is the excessive size of the rear cassette&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Size of the cassette is not much of a downside, and anything else on your list is likely to cause you headaches. The issues can be worked out, but not without a lot more detailed information about what components you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if it were me, I'd not feel a need for an easier gear than 25 inches per revolution, but that's a personal thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T11:27:25.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8946" CreationDate="2012-06-04T11:44:02.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem, in my case it was due to the Bottom Bracket, apparently the ones they used are notorious for it as if any water is splashed near them it washes some of the grease out It will not harm the bike though it is very annoying. To fix it you can apply spray grease into the BB. Though bear in mind that it could be coming from the seat, seat post, headset. Good Luck!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4227" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T11:44:02.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9551" CreationDate="2012-06-04T12:43:51.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been wearing Wiley X &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wileyx.com/EcommSuite/ProductDetail.aspx?ActivityCode=MOTORCYCLE&amp;amp;SeriesCode=CLIMATE_CONTROL&amp;amp;ProductLine=746,AIRRAG&amp;amp;ItemCode=697&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Airrage&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en-us.transitions.com/en/default.aspx?gclid=CKPWnpLNtLACFbEBQAodLglwTQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Transitions®&lt;/a&gt; (photo sensitive) lenses for cycling, shooting, offroading in my topless Land-Rover, &lt;a href=&quot;http://burningman.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Burning Man&lt;/a&gt; (dust storms in the Black Rock Desert) and as general purpose safety glasses when working in the shop. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wileyx.com/EcommSuite/ProductDetail.aspx?ActivityCode=MOTORCYCLE&amp;amp;SeriesCode=CLIMATE_CONTROL&amp;amp;ProductLine=746,AIRRAG&amp;amp;ItemCode=697&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Airrage&lt;/a&gt; features  removable gaskets (great for dusty conditions and my allergy season), a removable headband. and a  curved &quot;wrap around&quot; frame that fits my face well. Wiley X offers a number of styles to suit individual needs and preferences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My avatar happens to be a photo taken at Burning Man after a full day of dust storms. Unfortunately, I didn't have the Wiley X's that year.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EUOpF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of Wiley X Airrage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4003" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T12:43:51.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9734" CreationDate="2012-06-04T13:44:56.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you tour with a load, I suggest at least putting in a 22T ring up front. On loaded tour going up hill, in the rain, you have the greatest range of low gears. If present cost is a factor, this also reduces your chances of having to replace the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cost is not a problem, and you love to tour hilly country and you pack gear, the cost of a new chain, new cassette, and whatever it takes to get a 22T in front, IMO, is still pretty affordable. If your LBS has outrageous rates, they'll charge you more for labor than the approx $80USD in parts this new drivetrain will cost you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my Xtracycle, I run a 42-32-22/34-11 and I am frequently in 22/34 when I'm loaded up or on a hill. I might be hauling 60 extra pounds, but that 22 in front keeps me from killing myself and I rarely have to stand on my pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm investing in a newer cargo bike, and I'm requesting it have a 9sp 42-32-22/36-11 setup. This is not a light bike, but I know I'll load it up. I could go lower if I wanted 10sp and get a 22/38T combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T13:44:56.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9750" CreationDate="2012-06-04T19:15:56.150" Score="4" ViewCount="2489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.devinci.com/bikes/browse_13#13_44_161&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Devinci Caribou I&lt;/a&gt; and I was trying to adjust the front derailleur. I got the top and bottom stops adjusted right, but it seems that it doesn't downshift correctly from the biggest cog to the intermediate cog.  From reading on the internet, I've seen recommendations to adjust the barrel adjustment to fine tune the derailer. Only problem is I can't find the barrel adjustment.  The shifter cables come right out the side of the brifters, and there's no adjustment there. They go through the frame, and come out near the bottom bracket.  On the cable housing there's something that can be turned that seems like it could be a barrel adjuster, but turning it creates no changes in derailleur position.  This turnable part of the cable housing is present on both shifter cable. There is functioning barrel adjuster for my rear brakes, but this is quite different then the possible barrel adjustment for the shifter cables (and it actually works).  Can anybody help me out finding my barrel adjuster?  Here is a picture of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://matthewandtheride.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/fv125-caribou1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;model&lt;/a&gt; that I have, although it's hard to see any of the cabling in this picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-06-04T19:58:04.943" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T11:05:46.277" Title="Where are my barrel adjusters for my shifting cables?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2012-06-04T19:25:41.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to do one leg squats, is a very good way to train your legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4230" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T19:25:41.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9741" CreationDate="2012-06-04T19:37:34.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like there's an adjuster in-line, right before the cable enters the down tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T19:37:34.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9741" CreationDate="2012-06-04T19:49:53.540" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't need too much adjustment in your FD via barrel adjustments. If your cable is stretched or your not getting clean shifting just readjust your FD, it doesn't take that long and there are a lot of tutorials out there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T19:49:53.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-04T20:25:24.680" Score="4" ViewCount="1175" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current front setup is a 28-38-48 crank with Deore XT shifter &amp;amp; derailer. In addition to a FD-443 and top/bottom-pull converter, what else will need to be purchased for proper shifting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, yes, I do notice chainline issues on the 28 and 38, since it doesn't like 2-3 (on 8-speed), by which I mean chain-on-derailer action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: the reason for the FD-443 is because &quot;Shimano does make one model of front derailer designed to work with &quot;road&quot; (52-42) chainrings and RapidFire upright-handlebar shifters, the FD-R440 model.&quot; (http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html). The triple in the FD-440 series is the FD-443. As it's bottom-pull instead of top-pull, a top/bottom pulley converter is also needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4232" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T20:32:29.257" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T01:02:33.837" Title="Converting crankset from 28-38-48 to 30-39-53" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="16" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9734" CreationDate="2012-06-04T23:40:45.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mountain derailleurs (which fit mountain gearing) are readily available. However, mountain and road derailleurs use different indexing, so you need a shifting adapter. John Allen, the person to whom Sheldon Brown passed the torch, so to speak, states on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/drivetrain-mixing.shtml#adapters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/drivetrain-mixing.shtml#adapters&lt;/a&gt; about using a JTek Shiftmate pulley for correcting cable pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On JTek's site, they have two varieties of Shiftmate: the standard (for mixing SRAM, Shimano, and Campagnolo RD's and shifters), and the straight one (for mixing Campangolo, SRAM road, SRAM non-road, Shimano road, and Shimano mountain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your shifter is Tiagra and you're correcting the front shifting, you're going to want the Shiftmate Straight #7S in order to use a mountain FD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike shops and distributors stocking JTek products can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://jtekengineering.com/dealers.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://jtekengineering.com/dealers.htm&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4232" LastEditorUserId="4175" LastEditDate="2012-06-05T04:42:04.067" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T04:42:04.067" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9734" CreationDate="2012-06-04T23:57:35.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a touring bike with a 48-34-24 chain ring combination and a older Ultegra front derailleur and it shifts quite well. If you are concerned about the front derailleur, IRD makes a front derailleur called the Alpina-D that is optimized for a 48-36-24 and works with standard Shimano shifters. (I've not used it but I've looked at it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow-up: I recently rebuilt my bike and installed and IRD Alpina-D front derailleur. The front shifting did improve. The different profile of the cage made shifting and adjustment easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4233" LastEditorUserId="4233" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T05:50:54.863" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T05:50:54.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6336" CreationDate="2012-06-05T01:28:51.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the exact combo of Topeak MTX DXP and Explorer Tubular rack, that you have, on my bike. They work very well together. It is a snug fit, but I don't have the sticking problems that you experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3260" LastEditorUserId="3260" LastEditDate="2012-07-02T03:31:32.623" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T03:31:32.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9731" CreationDate="2012-06-05T06:39:08.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the number of other people asking the same question around the internet, I suspect the answer is no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2011/11/rohloff-hubs-with-drop-handlebars/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; contains the best wrap up I've found of available shifter options for Rohloff hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mittlemeyer may be bringing out some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mittelmeyer.de/Fahrradteile/BSG-Rennlenker/bsg-rennlenker.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brifters&lt;/a&gt; that work with hydraulic brakes in September, but they've already delayed their earlier March release date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="4175" LastEditDate="2012-06-05T15:15:58.250" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T15:15:58.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9741" CreationDate="2012-06-05T11:05:46.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is  the black piece about 2 inches from where it enters the down tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the barrel adjuster, but in line adjusters can be difficult get started adjusting, as often they come from the factory with the 2 halves of the barrel adjuster turned tightly against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That makes it appear to do nothing, when in fact the reason it is doing nothing is because it is rotating around the cable housing, rather than activating the adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to hold one half still, while rotating the barrel. Once it is broken free it should work normally. If not, then take it back to your LBS, and ask them to do it, as you will likely have to remove it from the bike to get it free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T11:05:46.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9731" CreationDate="2012-06-05T17:51:58.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Versa makes an 8 speed drop bar shift/brake lever intended for use with Nexus/Alfine 8 speed. UPC is 686605506835, image: &lt;a href=&quot;http://img1.qbp.com/6SPsvm45/prodl/LD0090.jpg&quot;&gt;http://img1.qbp.com/6SPsvm45/prodl/LD0090.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T17:51:58.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9734" CreationDate="2012-06-05T19:00:31.310" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think everyone has provided some pretty sound advice, especially Daniel Hicks and his recommendation to go with the quickest and cost effective option by replacing your chainrings! With a 130/74 BCD, an ideal setup would be to swap in a 24/36/48 which would give you a great range at a cheap price.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front derailleur is probably the least necessary component on your bike and, while shifting compatibility is a concern, I would recommend swapping in your new chainrings and setting everything up to test for compatibility before spending more money on a new derailleur. I have used mountain FDs on road triples and road FDs on mountain triples with a variety of indexed and non-indexed shifters and have had very little trouble over the years. Really, the only requirement is ensuring that the front derailleur is a triple and has the correct seat tube diameter/pull direction. (Your cascade of compatibility issues is something I've dealt with, but don't worry! There are lots of manufacturers who design compatibility issues into their gear, but they generally don't cater to the average touring enthusiast.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have an SGS derailleur (long-cage) you shouldn't have any issue with chain slack. For touring, the Deore SGS set up with an 11-32 is a great choice. At most, you may prefer to remove 1 or 2 links just to clean everything up. (I ride in New England on 24/38/48 x 13-32 and even with a full load I maybe walk it once a year).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start changing components such as your crankset you have to deal with special tools, frame clearance issues, bottom bracket fit, and Q-factor (the horizontal distance between your pedals). Mountain cranks have smaller BCDs but have much wider Q-factors which, for some people, can cause knee and hip irritation (which is exacerbated by long rides and clipless pedals). Long story short, if you are comfortable with your bikes ergonomics on long rides, leave it (or give yourself enough time to work out the bugs before attempting a 2k fully loaded). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, take things one step at a time. If smaller chainrings don't give you enough oomph, throw on a new cassette which is quick and has few compatibility issues (12-36 is a common low touring range). More compact road cranks have a 110/74 BCD which won't help you on the low end (though, if your leg length permits a longer crank arm it might provide a very small advantage). Some mountain cranks have BCDs as low as 58mm x 20t, but I suspect that this option may be more trouble than it is worth. Some handy online gear resources include: rivbike.com, velo-orange.com, universalcycles.com, and sheldonbrown.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheaper way to ease the inherent suffering of long, steep climbs would be to trim some bike fat and touring load (a good technical and philosophical resource might be The Ultralight Backpacker by Ryel Kestenbaum or Just Ride by Grant Petersen). Some people might recommend trimming some actual fat, but we live in a world where everyone gets to ride a bike, not just 130 pound-25-year-olds. (No offense to the 25-year-old cyclists out there!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T19:00:31.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9758" CreationDate="2012-06-05T19:57:29.553" Score="5" ViewCount="3681" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a ride yesterday, I noticed a spot on my shorts where the fabric felt rough. After washing, the problem became much worse, and there are major areas of damage on both the front and back of the shorts. The following picture shows a close-up of a section of the shorts on the front near the chamois. If I look at the shorts closely, it almost seems like there are short little threads of elastic sticking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2q8zw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of shorts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never put the shorts in the dryer, and I'm not aware of anything I've done wrong. Is this sort of damage common? Are there any mistakes in care or handling that are likely to have caused this, or is it a manufacturing defect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T17:06:56.283" Title="What caused my cycling shorts to get damaged during washing?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9753" CreationDate="2012-06-05T20:10:56.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that some of the fibers in the fabric have broken with use, and the washing causes the broken fibers to slip out of the fabric and &quot;show themselves&quot;.  This happens in areas of high friction or where there's a lot of &quot;scrunching/unscrunching&quot; as you pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T20:10:56.213" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9699" CreationDate="2012-06-05T20:47:43.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to look for when shopping for a helmet that will keep you cool is that air flows all the way through it from front to back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the helmet on and look in the mirror. If you can see all the way through the back of the helmet, it'll probably keep you relatively cool. And the more you can see through it, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher end helmets will also sometimes have vents that scoop air down into the helmet. The vents are raised at the front and lower at the back to force air down into the helmet as you ride along. I don't know what your budget is, but you'll probably pay a pretty penny for one of these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try wet bandana on your head. That works wonders for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T20:47:43.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9753" CreationDate="2012-06-05T21:15:29.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've experienced wear on some of my cycling shorts before and after a while I traced it back to the velcro strap on my saddle bag. It was rubbing on the inside of my leg when i would pedal and wearing out a patch on my shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any chamois creams that would cause that type of damage. Do you purchase quality or budget cycling shorts? I've certainly worn through cheap shorts pretty fast after only a few washings (i always wash cold and never dry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T21:15:29.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9753" CreationDate="2012-06-06T02:01:24.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These look like normal wearing patterns of cycling shorts, unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last 3 shorts (last five or six years) had to be put away because they became &quot;transparent&quot; right in the regions where they COULDN'T be transparent, even though they were still pretty much rideable. But it was very unconvenient to go inside convenience stores, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed this has a lot to do with which parts undergo friction with the skin, and stretching/unstretching during regular use. I suspect some chemical reactions from sweat and other skin substances might be involved. Probably the washing procedure might influence the speed or visibility of the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final observation, in general the highest the quality ones (as perceived at purchase time) tend to last much longer before the transparency effect ensues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, you probably need new shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T02:01:24.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2012-06-06T10:53:19.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a lot depends on where you are.  If you're on a forest trail where cyclists are the exception, then a lot of deference to the horse (and rider) is wise.  If you're on a multi-use trail (or the open road) where horses will often encounter cycles (or other vehicles) then you can be relatively confident that the horse will not spook so long as it has fair warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a way, you've got to know the horse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T10:53:19.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9640" CreationDate="2012-06-06T13:04:30.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/collections/electric_assist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek&lt;/a&gt; makes some electric assist bikes. Although I've never ridden one of their electric bicycles, Trek is known for making high quality bicycles.  Definitely one of the brands you should look into depending on your budget. The base price as listed on their website is just a little over $2000.  So much more than the Walmart electric bikes, but you get what you pay for. I've seen them in the bike stores up in Canada, and that link is for their US site, so they shouldn't be too hard to find a store that carries Trek bikes.  Their electric bikes basically look a lot like their commuter or hybrid bikes, with an electric assist motor attached. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/collections/electric_assist/fx_plus/#/us/en/model/details?url=us/en/collections/electric_assist/fx_plus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FX Plus Electric&lt;/a&gt;, to me looks like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_5_fx/#/us/en/model/details?url=us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_5_fx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;7.5 FX&lt;/a&gt; with slightly different components, and an added electric motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T13:17:45.900" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T13:17:45.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9766" CreationDate="2012-06-06T15:30:45.140" Score="29" ViewCount="26443" Body="&lt;p&gt;A co-worker and myself are having a friendly bike / run contest. What is a good ratio for miles ridden vs. miles run? I know it depends on pace. But I'm curious what a generally accepted range of ratios might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T18:48:47.773" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T00:26:12.753" Title="How many miles of riding require the same effort as one mile of running?" Tags="&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9562" CreationDate="2012-06-06T16:31:55.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mezzo D9 here. Lots of problems, and it's not even a cheap bike. Like the other posters say, Brompton may be the only way. I've owned 4 folders thus far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3294" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T16:31:55.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9764" CreationDate="2012-06-06T17:15:19.263" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to do a competition which gives a (good runner, mediocre cyclist) even chances against a (good cyclist, mediocre runner) then you might use the same ratio as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ironman_Triathlon&quot;&gt;Ironman&lt;/a&gt; triathlon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a 112-mile (180.25 km) bike and a marathon 26.2-mile (42.2 km) run which puts the ratio of distance cycled/distance run at roughly &lt;strong&gt;17/4&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on questions in comments, let me clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think 17/4 is probably well on the low side for a long race.  I've done a double metric century with 3km of climbing and ridden the next day.  I doubt I could run the day after a marathon on anything but a gentle downhill slope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For shorter distances though, it seems more reasonable.  If I push myself for 10km (6.2 miles), I expect it would take more out of me than if I hammered for 42km (26 miles) miles, but that's because I'm a better cyclist.  I think the hammering would take just as much extra out of some runner friends of mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weak cyclists can benefit from drafting a strong cyclist in a way that weak runners can't, but I think I'm strong enough to drop a strong runner/weak cyclist so that isn't a factor.  I would definitely try to have the ride first though, because otherwise the run might take enough out of me that I would have more trouble dropping a tail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-06-08T01:15:54.377" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T01:15:54.377" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9764" CreationDate="2012-06-06T17:42:19.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem here is that the effort spent is differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;good&quot; 45 y.o. runner capable of qualifying for Boston Marathon might do a 3:30 marathon (26.2) while a &quot;good&quot; biker on reasonably flat course might cover around 90 miles on a bike in the same time (87.5 miles @ 25 mph). The marathoner would likely be very much done for the day while the biker would likely still have some left in the tank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it to one extreme, run a 100m sprint as hard as you can. Have your buddy do a 400m lap at the velodrome. The biker will recover MUCH faster. At the other extreme (running/biking for 12 hours+) things are even murkier. As HeltonBiker points out, the ration is not linear (I doubt it's even quadratic). There is also a level of fitness at issue here. Because your are, in essence, multiplying effort small differences between levels of fitness will be blown way out of proportion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your contest, you could semi-level the playing field and make it about semi-equivalent effort spent. My $0.02 would be to get heart rate monitors (I would even step it up and get GPS devices) that take into account type of activity, heart rate, etc to generate # of calories burned. Person that burns the most over a specified period wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to do a single race rather than a longer contest, then you should look at average times for equivalent races. The various triathlon distances would be a good start, but I would discount the run times by 5-10% as the runner will not be doing a swim and bike first!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T17:42:19.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9764" CreationDate="2012-06-06T18:30:43.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could just try it once to get baseline values. E.g. you both go and do your thing for an hour, then come back with the results. Then you can use that as your ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent one another from gaming the calibration you could keep a running average that you both try to beat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the bike will always win for the reasons stated above, and because on a bike you can increase efficiency by spending money, whereas a runner cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more fair contest would be to compete in each others' sports and compare results fairly. E.g. &quot;I beat you by 15% when you biked, and you beat me by 12.3% when I jogged.&quot; Or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T18:30:43.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9764" CreationDate="2012-06-06T20:47:39.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am aged 50+ and cycled about 10,000 km (from a 36 km total daily commute) in the last 15 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only very recently (after all that) have I found that I have enough strength in my legs and 'feet' and heart, to run any continuous distance at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for my body, actual running (on my toes and not my heels) was unquantifiably harder (and required a year of cycling just as training, to get started on running).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T20:47:39.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9773" CreationDate="2012-06-06T23:06:43.760" Score="26" ViewCount="42577" Body="&lt;p&gt;(United States road configuration and customs here. Sorry, those of you who drive on the left!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my trip home, I use a bike lane near the right side of a very busy one-way arterial street; there is a bus/right-turn lane between the bike lane and the curb. I need to turn left, crossing three lanes of traffic, at a T-intersection (no street to the right). My options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn left directly from the bike lane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping a weather eye on traffic, move into the left-hand lane and turn from there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Veer right onto the sidewalk (avoiding buses, obviously); wait for the pedestrian light to cross.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these is the canonically correct way to manage, assuming heavy car traffic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2018-05-13T08:36:02.697" Title="What's the safest way to turn left from a right-side bike lane?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9770" CreationDate="2012-06-06T23:51:01.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me it would depend on the speed of traffic.  If the traffic is moving slow enough such that you can ride at about the same speed, then it should be possible to take option 2, and make your way over to the left lane. Try to move over to the left lane ahead of time, so you aren't cutting across the road too quickly, because this will slow your forward speed. If the traffic is moving much faster than you are, it's most likely safer to just take option 3 and cross as a pedestrian.  This may include dismounting and actually walk your bike across the pedestrian walk.  Technically it is probably illegal to use the pedestrian light to cross while riding, although I do this all the time, and I've never heard of anybody in my area getting a fine for doing this.  Option 1 is probably something that you should never do.  It's dangerous and illegal to make a left hand from a bike lane when you have to cross over a lane that goes straight though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-06-07T12:24:58.290" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T12:24:58.290" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9770" CreationDate="2012-06-07T00:40:17.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely not 1, unless there is a special signal to permit this.  Either 2 or 3, depending on traffic and your confidence level.  I've done both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T00:40:17.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9770" CreationDate="2012-06-07T00:43:04.003" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;By heavy I suppose you mean heavier than you'd like it to be, or heavier than you can live with comfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably possible, sometimes, to change lanes beforehand, going to the left one to do the left turn, if the traffic is not so heavy, but that would, I think, violate your pre-condition that the traffic IS heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, the canonical way to do it would be getting to the margin of the flow (in this case, the sidewalk), and waiting for a comfortable opportunity (in this case, the pedestrian light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn left directly is a very bad behaviour, as it adds a lot of unpredictability and leaves a small time window and a small margin of safety for you and for any other user of the public way. Besides, as it seems, it is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T00:43:04.003" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9635" CreationDate="2012-06-07T03:23:25.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started using Hawaiian Tropic 50 SPF for any ride longer than an hour.  I like it because it doesn't have that normal sunblock feel and smell (it smells a little like Piña colada).  Last weekend I used it for a 5 hour ride (6 total hours in the sun) on a cloudless day starting at 10 AM and the only areas I got burned were the areas I missed.  I've used it on century rides which last all day and didn't get burned.  I live in the midwest with crazy humidity causing me to sweat all the time during this time of the year, and I never have any issues with the sunscreen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hawaiiantropic.com/SunProtection/GeneralSunProtection.aspx#8760&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hawaiiantropic.com/SunProtection/GeneralSunProtection.aspx#8760&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4254" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T03:23:25.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9770" CreationDate="2012-06-07T07:25:01.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually prefer to get in the left lane when possible. One thing to consider though, is turning left onto a multi-lane street. You have to turn into the left-most lane when opposing traffic is turning right (pretend you're the blue car and the white car is turning right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3F2EW.png&quot; alt=&quot;left turn illustration&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a steady stream of cars turning right, it can be hard to get over to the far right after you've made your left turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case I'll usually opt for the crosswalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as others have pointed out, option 1 isn't a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4258" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-06-07T15:21:02.980" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T15:21:02.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9777" CreationDate="2012-06-07T09:25:18.417" Score="3" ViewCount="1028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano FD-TX50. How should I adjust it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4259" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T11:23:16.320" Title="How do I properly adjust a front derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9776" CreationDate="2012-06-07T11:23:16.320" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A front derailer is a bit more complicated than it looks, and can be quite complex to adjust if you're starting from zero -- just having installed the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are five (and a half) adjustments --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Height, sliding up and down the seat tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotation around the seat tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low limit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High limit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cable tightness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally height is such that the derailer, when in &quot;high gear&quot; position, is just a millimeter or two above the teeth of the large ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally rotation is such that the long arm of the derailer is parallel to the large ring (though it's tricky finding the right reference point on the derailer).  But very slight adjustments (particularly rotating clockwise slightly as viewed from above) may improve shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailers differ in terms of whether they spring out, to the largest ring, or spring in, to the smallest ring.  If it springs out, place the shifter in the position for the largest ring, adjust the barrel adjuster until it's just about all the way screwed together, then pull the cable tight, force the derailer in until it's just off the high limit, and tighten the cable clamp.  (Getting this right the first time takes practice, so don't cut the cable short until you're confident everything is correct.)  (For a &quot;springs in&quot; derailer you essentially do the opposite.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next adjust the high and low limits until the derailer centers over the high and low rings when those gears are selected.  Finally, adjust the barrel adjuster so that the derailer centers over the center ring when selected.  Double check the high and low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have it this far you need to crank the bike on a stand and see how it shifts.  Fine adjustment of the limits and cable tightness may be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable will stretch some over the first few hours and days of use, so fine-tuning of the barrel adjuster may be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T11:23:16.320" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9779" CreationDate="2012-06-07T12:21:05.747" Score="8" ViewCount="15010" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of advice out there to use chamois cream on long rides to prevent sores and chafing.  How are you supposed to apply it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular I'm curious about the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you apply the pad or to your nethers? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you wipe it on with your hands or a cloth?  What about when you are touring and can't wash up easily after applying?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much cream do you use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T18:05:32.957" Title="How do I properly apply chamois cream?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;&lt;chamois-creme&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9778" CreationDate="2012-06-07T12:45:33.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no right/wrong answer.  Just make sure you have some sort of towel available so you can wipe your hands before riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I generally do is place dabs on the chamois and rub the sides together to spread it around -- keeps the hands relatively clean and doesn't require a separate applicator.  Some people prefer to rub it on their butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use a lot -- maybe a half ounce (about 15 cc, IIRC).  Others use much more, maybe 2 oz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T12:45:33.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9764" CreationDate="2012-06-07T14:33:50.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the idea of comparing the distances of the cycling and running portions of the Ironman triathlon might seem appealing at first, you'll quickly see that the times of those distances aren't quite the same. The cycling portion of the Ironman typically takes participants about 1.25 times as long as the running portion, varying somewhat between competitors but always hovering around 1.25 times as long for cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be better to compare world records set over an equal amount of time. As it happens, there are world records held for the maximum distance covered in an hour for both cycling and running. Currently, the hour record for running is just a smidge over 21 km. The cycling hour record is a little bit trickier due to the fact that it has been set on a number of different types of bicycles, many of which are illegal in competition today. However, the hour record on a standard drop-bar road bike with a steel frame, rounded tubes, and wire spokes (much like the one most of us might ride on the road today) is held by none other than the great Eddy Merckx and is a bit over 49 km. This suggests an approximately 5:2 ratio between cycling and running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when comparing calories burnt over an hour of cycling verses an hour of running, you don't get the same approximate 5:2 ratio. It's a little closer to 2:1. This ratio actually does appear to be nearly linear, at least until you approach professional level speeds where the calorie calculator I was using topped out. NB: I was calculating the calories burnt by a 190 lb man. The values and ratios come out wildly different as body weight approaches the very thin and the very heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess it really depends on the metric you'd like to use for comparison. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T09:27:15.283" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T09:27:15.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9785" CreationDate="2012-06-07T16:48:07.137" Score="2" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went for my longest ride of the year this past Sunday. I guess my body wasn't expecting it or my bike is slightly misconfigured. I'm interested in finding a resource where I can look up what I might have done wrong based on where I am experiencing pain. Does such a resource exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I had serious stiffness and pain between my right calf muscle and right ankle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T18:09:12.897" Title="Is there a good resource for helping to discern the cause of pain / soreness?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9778" CreationDate="2012-06-07T16:59:31.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the type of Chamois Cream you are using.  I use Assos and that has a little bit thicker consistency than Vaseline, so it typically takes a bit more to get a good spread across everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb I follow is anywhere where friction will be a factor.  That for me means most of the taint, and the inner part of the upper thigh.  I don't like applying it to padding in the bib because I hate that feeling when I first put it on (worse than a wet bathing suit).  I know of some riders, such as my dad, who will also apply a fresh coat after being on the bike for a couple of hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After applying I try to wash my hands (when a sink is handy), when it is not then I use one of the handi-wipes I keep in my saddle bag.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with @Daniel, there really isn't a wrong way to do it.  I would try out different ways on shorter rides to see what feels good and what does not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4254" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T16:59:31.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9782" CreationDate="2012-06-07T17:36:57.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you want a web site similar to WebMD that you can put in symptoms and get an answer. I'd recommend against going down that route. With all endurance events, you can have resultant pain in the same areas caused by entirely different things. Trying to solve for problem (A) may actually exacerbate problem (B).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I'd recommend seeing a physical therapist or sports medicine doctor. Both can help you correctly identify what is actually injured and the PT and often the doc can help you identify how it got injured and what you need to change (setup of bike, strength in particular muscle, etc) to prevent it from occuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, RICE: Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation. Ice baths aren't fun, but they really do work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T17:36:57.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9782" CreationDate="2012-06-07T17:43:29.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is hands down the best write up of cycling related pain and the probable source of said pain:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown :: Pain&lt;/a&gt;.  In fact, be sure to check out the whole site.  It's not much to look at, but it's one of the best (if not the best) resource on the web for all things cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4215" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T17:43:29.170" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9778" CreationDate="2012-06-07T17:47:09.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the type of lube/cream you're using.  For short rides, I just use Glide.  It comes in a deodorant style container and can be applied directly to the nether regions.  For longer rides, I use a tube+cream based lube that i apply in both places chamois and directly to the &quot;friction zone.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One indispensable word of advice, if you are directly applying down there...remember this order of operations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sunscreen on your face, neck, arms and legs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Butt cream&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;do not mix those up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4215" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T17:47:09.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9782" CreationDate="2012-06-07T18:09:12.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are probably some &quot;sports medicine&quot; sites around, but they can only take you so far.  There are many conditions that can cause joint/muscle pain, and there is no comprehensive site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you suspect that you have some &quot;unique&quot; condition that is causing your pain (vs simple exercise soreness) then &lt;a href=&quot;http://neuromuscular.wustl.edu/maltbrain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; can be helpful, if you can figure out how to navigate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T18:09:12.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9635" CreationDate="2012-06-07T19:01:06.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest any of the high-SPF &quot;children's&quot; sunblocks ... they work just as well as the &quot;adult&quot; versions, but are less irritating (they also tend to be [slightly] less expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="728" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T19:01:06.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9878" CreationDate="2012-06-07T20:57:16.883" Score="14" ViewCount="5658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden road and mountain bikes for years, and this is my first year riding as a part of a team (and actually doing races).  I've been stuck at nearly the same level of skill when descending and would like to improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, there are some &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1451/good-books-on-mountain-biking&quot;&gt;books&lt;/a&gt; I can read, but some are dated, and who has time to read a whole book?  (said only partially tongue in cheek)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vague tips like, &quot;ride with faster riders&quot; are not needed - I ride with fast riders, and on the descents they're immediately gapping me at the first switchback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T15:12:06.927" Title="What skills/drills should I learn to descend faster and more confidently? (for mountain biking)" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;skills&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9790" CreationDate="2012-06-07T20:57:17.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One technique to use is the &quot;heel-drop&quot; which helps settle your weight and center of gravity lower and in the proper position (specifically off the handlebars). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While riding with the crank arms parallel to the ground, drop your heels below the level of the pedal.  This enables you to push against the pedals with your feet/legs to keep your weight back - as opposed to simply relying on your shoes being clipped in and pushing against your shoes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd only heard of it recently, and now that I know what to look for, I see it used by all the downhill riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbtips.com/advanced-mountain-biking-tips/the-heel-drop-for-better-bike-control/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This is a good introduction&lt;/a&gt; to the technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edited to add:&lt;/em&gt; While trying out this this technique, I had a difficult time actually implementing it.  It was only after getting a dropper post that it became clear that lowering the seat actually enables this technique as you can't drop your heels effectively if the seat is keeping your arse high.  Sure, obvious now, but it'd have been nice for someone to point out the obvious earlier...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T20:42:32.230" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T20:42:32.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9790" CreationDate="2012-06-07T22:13:28.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personall suggestion is the classic 1990's book / Video &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1579540813&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Mountain bike like a champion&quot; by Ned Overend&lt;/a&gt; Or his &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0002J8PME&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Performance Mountain biking DVD&lt;/a&gt;  Both have helped me more than i expected. Otherwise practice practice practice, and ride with people better than you anytime you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative, but the most expensive, is go to a local pro's &quot;skills camp&quot;. Often a few days of riding, instruction, and hands on help. I hear amazing things about these kinds of camps, but have never been to one personally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T22:13:28.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2676" CreationDate="2012-06-08T03:28:58.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rivendell has a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/Clothing-s/42.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;non-lycra clothes&lt;/a&gt;.  Some of that stuff might pass for hipster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T03:28:58.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9790" CreationDate="2012-06-08T03:56:11.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're more experienced than I am, but personally I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF5K9V2w6W8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; to be helpful. The rider is a professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lean the bike into the corner, but not your body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight on the outside pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look towards the exit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clip is from a much longer video called &quot;All Mountain Biking Basic Skills&quot; which used to be available on YouTube, but has since been removed. Now the maker of the video has bits and pieces of it posted. I thought it was a great video; I learned a lot from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple more parts: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDH02pIQpk8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;choosing your line&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZKhkyoOcdg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;riding position&lt;/a&gt; (&quot;heels down&quot;) as mentioned by the other responder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T13:15:39.033" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T13:15:39.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9770" CreationDate="2012-06-08T08:38:40.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I adopt one of two approaches, depending on how anxious I am, in similar situations in the UK (typically when I am cycling in London).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Be a car (as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9775/3704&quot;&gt;Dean suggests above&lt;/a&gt;). Well in advance of the junction signal and join the traffic, signal again and join the turning lane, and then turn. This one's faster and scarier than (2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Be a pedestrian. Slow down in advance of the junction and dismount. Stand with the bike and wait for the crossing light. Walk the bike to the other side of the one or two streets and then mount it again and cycle off. There's no shame in walking: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biblegateway.com/passage/?search=Ecclesiastes%209:4&amp;amp;version=KJV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ecclesiastes 9:4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3704" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T08:38:40.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9770" CreationDate="2012-06-08T09:00:50.177" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/HWY/BIKEPED/docs/bike_manual.pdf?ga=t&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oregon Bicyclists Manual&lt;/a&gt; explains this very well, and with good diagrams, so I'm going to pretty much copy them verbatim here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to make a left turn on a bicycle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;As a Vehicle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you approach the intersection, look over your left shoulder for&#xA;traffic  and, when clear, signal your turn, move over to the left side&#xA;of the lane  on a two-lane road (1), or into the left lane or the&#xA;center turn lane when  available. You should be  positioned so cars&#xA;going  straight through can’t pass  you on the left. Yield to oncoming&#xA;cars before turning.  if you are riding in a bike  lane, or on a road&#xA;with  several lanes, you need to  look and signal each time  you&#xA;change lanes. &lt;strong&gt;Never make a left turn from the  right side of the&#xA;road, even  if you’re in a bike lane.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;“Box-style”&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proceed straight through  the intersection on the  right. Then stop,&#xA;and either  cross as a pedestrian in  the crosswalk (2), or make  a 90&#xA;degree left turn and  proceed as if you were  coming from the right&#xA;(3).  If there is a signal, wait for  the green or walk signal  before&#xA;crossing. Yield to  pedestrians in crosswalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f2pyf.png&quot; alt=&quot;How to turn from the bike lane&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular case, I would suggest method 2. Cross the intersection, then pull off to the side and orient yourself to cross with the crosswalk. Then wait until there's a break in traffic, and head across that way. If you eventually become more comfortable biking in traffic, you may choose to use method 1. I find that cars almost always slow down and let me in if I clearly signal that I'm making a left turn, but it depends on how fast traffic is, how confident of a cyclist you are, and what the road conditions are like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T09:00:50.177" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9801" CreationDate="2012-06-08T11:04:54.177" Score="13" ViewCount="2695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought new pedals like on the picture. They are good, but i'm confused about the part, marked on the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always thought that pedals have no 'up' and 'down' sides, so i can't realize why it's assymetric.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2EbF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you explain me the use of the marked part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4007" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-06-08T13:18:12.097" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T13:18:12.097" Title="what is this protrusion on one side of my platform pedal for?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9800" CreationDate="2012-06-08T11:26:48.960" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you fit toe clips to your pedals, that spike is there to help you flip the pedal over so the clip is on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pedals have an up and down orientation when toeclips are fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/auh53.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T11:26:48.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9803" CreationDate="2012-06-08T13:40:58.567" Score="9" ViewCount="3255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a narrow bicycle tire puncture more often, or does it requires more attention regarding its maintenance and servicing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4255" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-06-08T17:59:21.390" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T17:59:21.390" Title="Do narrow tires puncture more frequently?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9802" CreationDate="2012-06-08T13:47:45.530" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thin tires do get punctured more easily.  They also require that you fill them up more often, as they have a smaller volume of air, and at a much higher pressure, and therefore more quickly drop to a non-optimal pressure. Also, narrow tires will not be able to absorb as much impact as a wider mountain bike style tire, and therefore potholes and other obstacles will be more likely to warp the wheel.  However, if you have good tires, along with good quality wheels, and only ride on the roads, narrow tires can be extremely maintenance free both in terms of flats, and having your wheels stay true.  Just don't try to take them off any big jumps and watch out for potholes. Also, having a good quality floor/track pump can make filling the tires regularly less of a chore. As long as you're riding the tires in their designed environment (don't take road tires off-road), then maintenance and flats are more a factor due to tire and wheel quality than to the width of the tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T13:47:45.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9806" CreationDate="2012-06-08T15:07:19.700" Score="2" ViewCount="2620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got run over a car a few weeks ago and now i have to change the fork.&#xA;It's an old racer, as you can see in the picture, with a 1 inch fork. I am trying to loosen it from the frame, but I can't loosen the bolt marked with 2 because of the rust and now it's completely gone. Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't post any picture, but the stem and fork is similar to this one:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9KIo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;similar fork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the bolt I am talking about is the one that is in the stem and goes to the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4269" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-06-08T20:14:55.353" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T23:33:07.127" Title="How can I remove a fork if the bolt on the stem is rusted?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9804" CreationDate="2012-06-08T15:38:48.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need is the proper size of headset wrench. Take your bike into a bike shop and ask them for the proper sized headset wrench for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally it helps to have two headset wrenches or a nice big adjustable wrench so that you can work the bolts against each other if they are binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're stripped the bolts, I would recommend filing off the rounded bits if they aren't stripped too badly, or using some channel locks if they are stripped too badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VocDL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;headset wrench&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T15:38:48.837" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9804" CreationDate="2012-06-08T15:48:35.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need an allen key - probably a 6mm one to take off the stem, which is the silver part that holds your handle bars. If you loosen the bolt and it keeps coming up, hit it with a plastic mallet to knock it back down which should loosen that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the stem is off you will need a headset wrench, probably 32mm. Having 2 helps because it's basically a double nut that holds the stem on. The lower one holds the stem in place and the upper one locks it into position. If you've stripped the nut, I would take it to a shop and they'll have to do some additional work on it and most likely replace your headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were in a crash, I'd have a bike shop inspect your bike front to back. A crash can do a lot of damage that the untrained eye will not be able to spot and you could be riding a cracked frame or otherwise dangerous bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T15:48:35.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-08T15:53:21.447" Score="1" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to sure what it's coming from I don't have the tools to take the crank off or adjust the bb. The funny thing I don't get is that the creak is gone the next time I ride my bike then when I may go over a root or something and hour and a half into my ride the creak comes back then get progressivly worse the more I pedal. Then the harder I pedal the sounds gone. The lighter I pedal the sounds there. Th e only side it comes from is the left. I dont get it at all. I'm. It really bike inclined which is odd since I work as a vehicle mechanic. Any one have any suggestions.oh and the bb is a shinamo un-26 sealed square tapered bearing. And the bike is 2 months old&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4270" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T13:58:35.587" Title="New rocky mountain soul 29 making creaks by the bb" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-08T16:01:21.427" Score="0" ViewCount="2025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently broke my rear derailleur of my road bike it was a Shimano SIS 7 speeds, so I am thinking if I can get a better one like a sram or deore or I don't know.&#xA;Thank you for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4271" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T16:34:18.807" Title="Change my Shimano SIS rear derailleur of 7 speeds to a better one?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9808" CreationDate="2012-06-08T16:34:18.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use any Shimano derailer. I would go for Acera or Alivio, since they have good quality and good price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some SRAM might work, but beware that SRAM and Shimano have a different &quot;cable pitch&quot; (amount of cable pulled for a given amount of lateral movement of the derailer pulley). Even though, SRAM manufactures a few models which are compatible with Shimano levers, and also some shifters which are compatible with Shimano derailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the &quot;cable pitch&quot; of the system is correct, you only need to match the cassette model and the shifter model (in your case, just keep your cassette and your shifter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: if it is a road bike, perhaps Acera and Alivio couldn't be the best choices, but I'm not up to date with Shimano options for road derailers. Anyway, they are interchangeable regarding &quot;cable pitch&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T16:34:18.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9922" CreationDate="2012-06-08T17:41:38.507" Score="1" ViewCount="2577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some searching, but I can't seem to find a definitive answer to this question. Is it legal to ride against traffic on a one-way street (no bike lane) in California, specifically in Los Angeles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21202.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VC 21202&lt;/a&gt;(b) says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(b) Any person operating a bicycle upon a roadway of a highway, which highway carries traffic in one direction only and has two or more marked traffic lanes, may ride as near the left-hand curb or edge of that roadway as practicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't explicitly mention going against traffic, but since it's talking about one-way streets and riding close to the &lt;em&gt;left&lt;/em&gt; curb, can we assume that the implication is that the rider is going the &quot;wrong way&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-06-17T17:36:09.773" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T02:28:42.657" Title="California: Riding against traffic on a one-way street" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;us&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9810" CreationDate="2012-06-08T17:57:52.513" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the case of a one way street, the implication is that you &quot;may&quot; ride (not must ride) close to the left hand curb. If you are traveling in the direction of traffic, this allows you to complete a left hand turn in a safe and sane manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The provision in California Vehicle Code Section 21200(a), listed below, makes clear that a bicycle on the street is subject to all the same laws as a motor vehicle, the only exception being where those laws can't be applied due to the nature of a bicycle. (For example, emissions standards). That would indicate to me that the expectation is that a bicycle ride in the direction of permitted traffic, when on a one way street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;21200: (a) A person riding a bicycle or operating a pedicab upon a&#xA;highway has all the rights and is subject to all the provisions&#xA;applicable to the driver of a vehicle by this division, including,&#xA;but not limited to, provisions concerning driving under the influence&#xA;of alcoholic beverages or drugs, and by Division 10 (commencing with&#xA;Section 20000), Section 27400, Division 16.7 (commencing with&#xA;Section 39000), Division 17 (commencing with Section 40000.1), and&#xA;Division 18 (commencing with Section 42000), except those provisions&#xA;which by their very nature can have no application.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T17:57:52.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9813" CreationDate="2012-06-08T18:33:46.243" Score="5" ViewCount="5934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a new GMC Denali road bike.  I've put it together, but riding it has revealed that there are a few things that need to be fixed, such as the front-side brakes being too loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a common list of maintenance and adjustments to be made to the bike before I should start riding it regularly?  Or should I just ride it and fix the adjustments as I find them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3183" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T19:12:17.577" Title="What maintenance to do after buying a brand new road bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9812" CreationDate="2012-06-08T19:02:00.073" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before each ride I do a quick safety check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes adjusted correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebars correct, wheel in line, headset tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle/seatpost tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedals and crank look good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain looks good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels true (maybe not perfect, but quick spin shouldn't show huge&#xA;wobble or brake rub)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick Release Tight/Hub Nuts Tight [thanks Kibbee]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires inflated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the exception of the &quot;tires inflated&quot; this takes me about 30 seconds. The &quot;Wheels true&quot; I do by just spinning the wheel and looking at distance to brake pad. After first revolution I can stop wheel where I need to align stem for easy pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Tires inflated&quot; I do by hooking up the pump and topping them off. If I had a flat on the last ride, I let out the CO2 and replace with air, otherwise I just take them back up to whatever pressure I use for the particular bike and conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This list is also the list of things to NOT wait to find out before fixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a new bike, you will also want to adjust for cable stretch on the derailleurs during the initial period. Many bikes have barrel adjusters that make this simple, but looking at the close up pics of the GMC Denali, it looks like this bike does not. Simply put, the lower priced bikes are able to be lower priced in large part by making assembly cheaper and using parts that are cheaper to make. This is NOT to say that it's not a very serviceable bike. Most of the tradeoffs just make it a little bit harder to maintain. The two that affect adjusting cable tension are the lack of barrel adjuster and the use of a regular nut rather than a hex bolt to hold the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make the same adjustment, you just have to use a different tool. First, don't worry about this until your shifting starts to get a little bit sketchy. Once/If it does, you will want to shift to the smallest cog ( rear gear) for the rear derailleur. Then loosen the nut holding the rear derailleur cable and just pull it &quot;strong finger tight&quot; and retighten the nut. If this doesn't help there are easy ways to work through it, but come back and post another question so we can make sure we talk you through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front derailleur generally isn't quite as affected by stretch, but if it becomes harder to get into the bigger chain ring (front gear), do the same thing...shift to smallest chainring and loosen nut, tighten cable, tighten nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastEditorUserId="1036" LastEditDate="2012-06-08T19:12:17.577" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T19:12:17.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9804" CreationDate="2012-06-08T19:10:51.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's rusted, you will also want to try some &quot;Creep&quot; (lots of brands out there, Liquid Wrench is popular on East Coast) penetrating oil. Straight oils won't get in where you need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the penetrating oils have solvent in them so you will want to clean, degrease, and re-oil after you get everything apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have issues, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; consider cutting off the fork from the bottom with a hacksaw (since you are replacing it anyway) which will give you more access to the stuck parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T19:10:51.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13428" CreationDate="2012-06-08T19:41:29.967" Score="46" ViewCount="171579" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some bike shops have gel pads that you sit on to measure the distance between your sit bones. Is it possible to take this measurement on your own at home, or does this really require special-purpose equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Related question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4618/should-i-use-a-narrower-saddle-on-a-road-bike-than-i-would-on-my-hybrid-commuter&quot;&gt;Should I use a narrower saddle on a road bike than I would on my hybrid commuter?&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T19:22:20.043" Title="Is it possible to measure your sit bones at home?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9815" CreationDate="2012-06-09T07:36:58.337" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do it on any surface which will conform to the shape of your butt, like a piece of memory foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sit on it, with your knees higher than your seat by 4-6 inches, then measure the center of the depressions left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different types of memory foam, and some will have a more durable impression than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T07:36:58.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-09T10:58:31.487" Score="1" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a bike from old bikeparts, but i've got a problem. The part that connects the derailleur with the frame doesn't fit, and I thought I would find something on chainreactions, but I can't see anything. Any suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4269" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T17:06:47.383" Title="Fitting a rear derailleur" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9817" CreationDate="2012-06-09T14:00:51.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Only change the derailleur, since the new frame should have its own derailleur hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;derailleurhanger.com&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T14:00:51.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-09T18:25:46.467" Score="5" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of prescription sunglasses that partially wrap around my face, but when I ride (mountain biking and commuting), dust and debris still end up in my eyes, and after twenty miles, my eyes are watering. I am looking to get a pair of goggles that can fit over my glasses, but I don't want to order a pair that won't fit my head (I'm 5'3&quot;), and I have yet to find a goggle review that mentions a small size. I have a cross-country helmet, so they'd be sitting directly on my face. Are there any recommendations? I am looking to get a pair for under fifty dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4275" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T13:33:44.737" Title="Good goggles over glasses for a small head?" Tags="&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-03-03T01:20:28.603" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9821" CreationDate="2012-06-09T19:45:55.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Safety Glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I no longer bother with prescription sunglasses, I have multiple pairs of Uvex safety glasses that fit nicely over my glasses.  There are multiple lenses that filter all UV, come in different colours, etc.  I also have a pair with clear lenses that I use when it's particularly dusty or dirty.  (e.g. I sometimes ride over a very busy bridge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go with some sort of safety glasses, you can either find someplace online that sells them or look for a local safety/industrial supply company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some more Uvex-specific information, I'm sure other brands would also work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The glasses I use are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uvex.us/products.aspx#/product=588&amp;amp;folder=98&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Uvex Genesis&lt;/a&gt; with Espresso Lenses.  The Gold Mirror lens looks cooler (both are 100% UV) but the gold surface finish is more fragile.  The lenses on these and many other safety glasses are interchangeable so if you want another colour or need a replacement, you don't need to buy the frame.  OTOH, the frames are not expensive so it's possible to have multiple shades for different conditions.  (The last pair I bought last year was about Can$35.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uvex has a smaller series called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uvex.us/products.aspx#/product=592&amp;amp;folder=98&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Genesis Slim&lt;/a&gt; that might meet your need for a smaller pair of glasses.  They don't have as many colour choices for lenses, but both of the &quot;Grey&quot; choices block 100% of UV.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uvex.us/StandardTemplate.aspx?id=4020&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; has PDFs of reference info: which tints are available for which frames, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uvex.us/uploadedFiles/ProductConfiguration/ProductLiterature/Uvex_Lens_Tech_Update2011.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;details of the different lens tints.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastEditorUserId="2302" LastEditDate="2012-06-09T19:59:36.080" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T19:59:36.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-09T20:50:16.160" Score="2" ViewCount="8101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a new beginners road bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004W8LG1S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Takara-Kabuto-Single-Speed-Road/dp/B004W8LG1S/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And an air pump:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FI6XGC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Pocket-Rocket-Master-Blaster/dp/B000FI6XGC/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1339274700&amp;amp;sr=1-3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have no idea how to use the bike pump. I really don't have that much experience with bikes, which is probably a large portion of the problem. Here are some questions I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do you even use the pump? I imagined it would be intuitive but it isn't, at all. It looks like my wheels have a schrader valve (it's definitely not presta, could it be something else?), and my pump says it can work for these valves, but I can't attach the end of the pump on the part of the tire that takes in air at all. After reading the Amazon reviews I understand you have to do an operation to change the head in order to deal with schraders, but even after that, it still doesn't work for me. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I was young, I always pumped my bike until I felt the wheel was firm, as I had never heard of psi or anything. How do you exactly tell how much to pump your bike and what does psi have to do with anything?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4278" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T08:38:00.393" Title="How to Inflate Tires" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9823" CreationDate="2012-06-09T21:24:45.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the valve cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the lever folded flat against the pump insert the valve into the Schrader port of the pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift the lever so it is perpendicular to the pump body this will lock the pump and valve together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump the pump until the tire feels firm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fold the lever against the pump body and quickly remove the pump from the valve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the pressure with a tire pressure gauge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the pressure is less than desired repeat steps 2 thru 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the pressure is above the desired pressure release some air and recheck it with the gauge&#xA;As a side note the more you use the pump the closer you will be able to judge the pressure by the effort required to push the pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T21:24:45.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9821" CreationDate="2012-06-09T21:56:50.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Order a pair of glasses with more coverage from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zennioptical.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;zenni-optical&lt;/a&gt;. It's nice not to have to wear a goofy contraption over top of your existing glasses. You can get a pair of prescription goggle type for around 25-30 bucks that will do the job for you. Just try sorting by type, use goggles as the filter. You just need to give them the details of your prescription and they will make them for you and ship them pretty quickly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until then, you could pick up some cheap hardware store goggles, a pair of ski goggles, or moto-cross goggles and try them on for fit over your glasses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T21:56:50.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9823" CreationDate="2012-06-10T08:38:00.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the manufacturers page for your pump there is a video showing how you switch the pump over from presta to schrader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the top right of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Mini-Pumps/PocketRocket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak PocketRocket&lt;/a&gt; page there is a link to this YouTube video &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;amp;v=FsYyU83eXaY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;How to change internal pump head parts&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as PSI goes, you can either go for what feels right, or buy a separate pressure gauge.  It is probably possible to buy something very cheap that should do a good enough job.  Some people swear by their specific tire pressure, others don't really notice the difference.  Just avoid letting them get too low because that will cause damage to the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T08:38:00.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-10T19:24:58.503" Score="26" ViewCount="107736" Body="&lt;p&gt;A nail punctured my rear wheel tire today while riding.&#xA;My question is, how do you know if you need to replace a tire or simply repair it with a tube repair kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole looks pretty nasty. The cap part of the nail entered the tire, leaving an L shaped hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that water might get into the wheel in wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3955" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T22:29:35.577" Title="When should you replace tires after getting a flat?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2012-06-10T20:00:44.280" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, you repair tubes, not tires. From your last sentence, it sounds like you are indeed talking about the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is with the tube, the real answer is &quot;Size Matters&quot;. In this case, both the size of the hole and the size (okay, type) of the tire. If I was looking at damage to a road tire &quot;slick&quot;, the hole you describe would likely having me change tires. On a cross or MTB tire I might try a repair. In addition to using a tube patch, I'd also glue the &quot;L shaped hole&quot; back together with superglue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's any safety doubt, change tires. The closer to the side of the tire, the higher chance this could cause a lack of integrity while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never hurts to get a second opinion at your LBS either. Smaller shops will tend to give you a straight answer rather than just going for the sale of a new tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride Happy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T20:00:44.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9815" CreationDate="2012-06-10T22:56:14.047" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fresh piece of corrugated cardboard on a hard surface such as a coffee table. Sit down and try to mimic the upper body position you have on your bike. Your sit bones change position based on how your pelvis is tilted. Your sit bones should crush the corrugated cardboard slightly and leave two indentations. Measure center to center as best you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T22:56:14.047" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2012-06-11T01:47:27.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of repairing a bike tire. Maybe if it were tubeless you could plug it, just as you do on your car. But if not...I guess if you're just cruising around town give it a shot. If you are pushing the limits on this thing, buy a new tire. Worst case you blow out and slide under a truck (or into a tree maybe if we're talking mountain biking?). Best case you end up flatting over and over b/c the now non-smooth inner wall of your tire constantly wears down the tube. When inflated, tubes are very thin and very easily punctured or worn through. Dropping $50 on a decent tire might seem annoying, but if you hurt yourself riding on busted gear, you'll regret having 'saved' that money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4283" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T01:47:27.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2012-06-11T02:23:42.437" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, I'd say a larger-than-usual hole in the tire could have these undesireable side-effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tube might get a bit exposed, and the day-to-day rolling over the hole might wear it down until the tire eventually flats out. Chemical aggresion from road grime or mud could also be involved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fabric of the tire might get damaged to the point there is a visible bulge. This not only causes a bump while rolling, but most importantly is a weak point that might lead to tire explosion and and accident.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these somewhat larger punctures damage mainly the rubber and not so much the tire fabric (plies). If that is the case, a simple cautionary patch on the inside (with a regular tube patch) is enough to warrant peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tire is bulging around the hole when it is inflated at the pressure you use, that is a warning indicating the tire is probably too damaged. A larger or stronger patch might be used inside the tire, and some regular observation to see if it stabilizes or grows is needed, but most probably it would be better to get it off the bike (which is very sad when it is a relatively new tire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T02:23:42.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2012-06-11T06:42:41.460" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, if you are using an inner tube in the tire, you should replace the tire if there is more than a 2 millimeter cut in the tire casing. Not in the rubber, mind, but it the threaded cloth casing that your rubber bits are laid on to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally err on the side of replacement rather than risking a serious injury from a blow out at a bad time, so I usually replace when there is a 1mm or larger cut in the casing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if I put a new tube back in, and the hole is large enough to see the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T22:29:35.577" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T22:29:35.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9764" CreationDate="2012-06-11T08:42:18.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.lifepattern.org/2008/04/15/100-km-around-vitosha/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;In Bulgaria we have an annual 100-km race in Vitosha mountain.&lt;/a&gt; Speed walkers/runners set off at midnight, while cyclists start at 6 AM. The terrain asphalt and mountain trails, with slopes up and down. This is considered fair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, personally, pity the runners, for reasons mentioned in other answers here - walking 100 miles - heroic torture, cycling 100 miles - pleasure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T08:42:18.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9790" CreationDate="2012-06-11T11:47:05.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you don't read &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0736083715&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mastering Mountain Biking Skills&lt;/a&gt; (and you should, it's great, and has a section on riding switchbacks) there's a bunch of information on author Lee McCormack's site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leelikesbikes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LeeLikesBikes&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T11:47:05.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4656" CreationDate="2012-06-11T12:33:15.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There has been some more recent research on this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.science20.com/news_articles/why_does_moving_bicycle_stay-78139&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.science20.com/news_articles/why_does_moving_bicycle_stay-78139&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was previously thought that the rotating wheels of the bicycle provide stability through gyroscopic effects; and that the ‘trail’ (the distance by which the contact point of the front wheel trails behind the steering axis, plays an important part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A new study in Science claims to have settled the issue - gyroscopic&#xA;  effects and trail help, says researcher Dr Arend Schwab of the 3mE&#xA;  faculty at TU Delft, but are not necessary above a certain speed .  In&#xA;  a 2007 Proceedings of the Royal Society article &#xA;  (doi:10.1098/rspa.2007.1857),  a mathematical model with around 25&#xA;  physical parameters was developed at the time which appeared to&#xA;  predict whether, and at what speeds, a particular design of bicycle&#xA;  would be stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The authors designed and constructed a Two Mass Skate bicycle, with&#xA;  small and counter-rotating wheels, which means there is no gyroscopic&#xA;  effect to speak of, and a small negative trail (in other words, where&#xA;  the point of contact of the front wheel is marginally in front of the&#xA;  steering axis).   Yet the bicycle remained stable when moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T12:33:15.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4062" CreationDate="2012-06-11T12:33:30.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend the Fendor-Bendor by WIT Industries. This is a foldable fender / mudguard (^_^), that you can keep in your bag, folded completely flat. Whenever you need it, you take it out, fold it out and put it on your bike.&#xA;It works especially well with traditional steel road or track frames.&#xA;www.witindustries.nl/products/fendorbendor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Olaf Wit&#xA;(Yes, I made it! ;))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4285" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T12:33:30.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-11T13:44:12.963" Score="0" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed the fork from my old racer because I was hit by a car. When I'm trying to put the new fork on the frame, I get a gap where the top bearing is situated. What should I do? Could I just remove the bearing and put everything in place, or is that just too stupid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4269" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T10:46:00.063" Title="Gap between fork and frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9845" CreationDate="2012-06-11T15:39:06.127" Score="16" ViewCount="14713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently switched from a mountain bike to a road bike with 22mm tires for commuting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed right away that I could not do the things like hop over curbs with this new bike. I also got flats. Lots of flats. I would get 1 flat per week, and I got good at patching tires. After a few weeks of this i got &lt;a href=&quot;http://mrtuffy.com/&quot;&gt;Tuffy&lt;/a&gt; tire liners and haven't gotten a flat since. I patched up all holes in my tires from inside before putting them in (and they were a pain to put in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have the following fears:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I am going fast and I hit a small (less then 3&quot; bump), I might get a pinch flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cannot ride off a curb onto the payment without wrecking my bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cannot hop curbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I must check my tires after every ride for glass lodged in them and take it out with tweezers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is a sizeable hole (from glass) in my tire, I must use a patch kit to patch it up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I must always ride at 120psi per tire (I weigh ~200lbs).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My stopping power compared to the mountain bike is really really bad (especially in the rain).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I must pay &lt;em&gt;extreme&lt;/em&gt; attention to the road and go around bumps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be worried about these concerns? Are 22mm tires too thin for commuting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Followup&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, after about 2 months of daily commuting on the road bike I have this to say in the defense of my earlier self:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest issues turned out to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My bike lock which I used to attach to my bike created &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; of vibration which in turn made it impossible for me to hear any noise my bike was making. One time I rode on a flat for a few minutes because I couldn't hear/tell it was there because of the vibration/noise. This incident made me think that flats on a road bike were undetectable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I rode clipless which scared me in traffic. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've since started to carry my bike lock in my backpack so now I can hear my bike. I've also replaced my awesome clipless pedals with regular ones which made me feel much more comfortable in high traffic. Not fearing death actually made me faster with regular pedals in the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commuting on the road bike is a blast. I love passing everyone, and now that I figured out how to properly use both brakes, I can actually stop almost as quickly as I could on my fat tired mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-28T03:11:19.973" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T19:20:55.610" Title="Are 22mm tires too thin for commuting?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9843" CreationDate="2012-06-11T15:46:41.093" Score="1" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to get a lot of punctures on my 22mm tires riding to work every day in boston. All of the punctures were from small pieces glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few weeks of almost weekly flats i got tuffy tire liners and now i no longer get flats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some other better solution then tire liners because they were &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; difficult to put in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T04:36:15.973" Title="avoiding punctures in 22mm tires" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9839" CreationDate="2012-06-11T16:22:32.780" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road bike tires are indeed different than what you are used to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF your tires are aired up right (yes likely 100+ PSI per the sidewall recommendations) you should NOT be getting pinch flats. Avoid potholes and curbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can hop a curb on a road bike, but but takes grace and a soft touch, and you have to pop up the back wheel a bit. you can not just pop the front and bash the back. Even with the right tire pressure you can break the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass is a road bike tire's worst enemy. It will slice or gash a tire. Also watch out for chunks of metal and bolts. I slit open a tire 3&quot; on a piece of metal i failed to see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Braking power is a different thread. But good brakes will go a long way. I went years on cheap textro or low level shimanos and simply thought road bikes never stopped fast. Then i picked up some Ultegra's and wow what a difference. I now stop on a dime, just as fast if not faster than with dic brakes on my mountain bike. I have since added some shimano 105's to my commuter, and while not as good as my ultegras, they are 2x better than the stock junk. I picked up the 105 calipers used on ebay for $40. Worth a look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T16:22:32.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9847" CreationDate="2012-06-11T16:23:23.887" Score="13" ViewCount="107856" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current bike tyres are 26 x 2.0 (Manufacturer fitted tyres)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to fit 26 x 2.1 or 26 x 1.95 on these wheels or is this going to cause an issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2223" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T17:48:56.837" Title="Can I fit slightly different tyre sizes" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-07-06T00:31:38.213" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9840" CreationDate="2012-06-11T16:25:21.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some tire makers have a thicker center. Specialized Armadillo based tires will work wonders. They are a bit heavier, but worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/road-tires/training-allseasonroadtires/allconditionarmadillo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Armadillo Tires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im sure there are others, but this is the one I have used the most on my commuter road bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-06-11T21:32:11.880" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T21:32:11.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9840" CreationDate="2012-06-11T16:45:43.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to Matt Adams' suggestion, I'd go with Continental Gatorskins or Armidillo or other kevlar lined tires. Additionally, I'd suggest that you move to something a bit larger such as 25mm for commuting. This will provide you with a little more material to fend off glass and other debris. It'll also be a bit more comfortable of a ride for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;22mm/23mm tires are mostly used for racing and are usually very soft and prone to picking up and holding on to debris like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T16:45:43.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9839" CreationDate="2012-06-11T17:05:34.460" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of your fears are unfounded or way overblown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I am going fast and I hit a small (less then 3&quot; bump) I might get a pinch flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pinch flats do not occur on tires that are properly inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I cannot not ride off a curb on to the payment and not wreck my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this on both my commuter and my racing bike. Just do it gently and not violently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I cannot hop curbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this at slow speeds with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I must check my tires after every ride for glass lodged in them and take it out with tweezers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easier is to just not ride through glass. I've never had to pick glass out of my tires after three years of commuting by bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is a sizable hole (from glass) in my tire I must use a patch kit to patch it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah. But again, you shouldn't be flatting this often. I made it 6,500mi on my last pair of tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I must always ride at 120psi per tire (I weigh ~200lbs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride at whatever the printed range is on the tire itself. Some road tires are fine at 85psi. Usually this involves topping up air once every week (for 120+psi tires) or two to three weeks (for 85psi tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My stopping power compared to the mountain bike is really really bad (especially in the rain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your front brake should be more than capable of hurtling you over the handlebars if slammed shut at speed. Braking power will be significantly impacted in the rain, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I must pay extreme attention to the road and go around bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Way overblown. Don't go plowing into 5-inch potholes, sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're having this many problems, you're probably treating your road bike like a mountain bike (why are you having to hop curbs so often — it's a &lt;em&gt;road&lt;/em&gt; bike, not a sidewalk bike) and you probably have worn out and/or bargain bin tires. Get some decent tires with puncture protection and chill out a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T10:26:00.263" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T10:26:00.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9840" CreationDate="2012-06-11T17:06:05.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you get the right size of liners? They sell a couple different sizes (you can tell the size by the color).  I have 28s and I didn't have that much trouble putting them in.  Maybe narrow tires are more troublesome.  Also, I've had great experiences with tuffy tire liners. Combined with Gatorskins, tires are pretty resistant to punctures.  Ran over a broken beer bottle, heard it crush under my tires, and still no flat.  A little tricky to get them in there, but defintely not something you have to do very often. Probably worth the trouble.  Checking their site, you should have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mrtuffy.com/sizes.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;orange&lt;/a&gt; liners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-06-11T17:20:08.017" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T17:20:08.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9842" CreationDate="2012-06-11T17:18:42.523" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Slightly smaller is fine&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's really no possible problems going just a wee bit smaller. Even going much smaller would probably be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Slightly larger is &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; ok&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the original 26 x 2.0 tires on the bike, check the clearances. Remember that a 2.1 tire will be both wider and &quot;taller&quot;. Look at how much space there is around the tire at the fork crown, where the tire is close to the downtube, where the tire passes between the seat stays, where the tire passes between the chainstays, where the tire gets closest to the seat tube... As long as there's room for a wider tire, it'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really common to change out tires for slightly different sized ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T17:18:42.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9839" CreationDate="2012-06-11T20:01:14.553" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to ride my racing bike every day to and from work. This bike had an 11mm wide front tire and a 15mm wide back tire, and over the course of ten years I had had only one puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rode it as fast as I could, everywhere, up and down hills - but got very used to just avoiding debris in the road. Your eyes will get used to looking far ahead and your brain will learn to plan the route around bumps and potholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also popped it up kerbs when I had to, but would take that a bit slower, and aim to pop the wheels up exactly the height of the kerb, so they wouldn't either hit the corner or come down from a height. Dropping down kerbs I would use my legs as shock absorbers, letting it come down gently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem I did have was the one time I missed a new pothole on my usual high speed run - my front wheel got far enough down into it that I shattered the magnesium rim and went forks first into a busy roundabout! Since then I've always had at least a 13mm front tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr - you'll be fine. just get used to planning where your wheels will go by looking further ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T20:01:14.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9840" CreationDate="2012-06-11T20:28:20.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.panaracer.com/urban.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panaracer Ribmo PT&lt;/a&gt;.  These tires never flat on me.  They are really thick and tend to be pretty good for fixed gear riders as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The panaracer T-serve is also a bit lighter, but has good flat protection too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T20:28:20.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9837" CreationDate="2012-06-11T22:00:10.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that your head tube was ovalized when the wreck occured causing a gap. Also keep in mind that head tubes come in many sizes. Your fork may be the wrong size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this Wikipedia article for more:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headset_(bicycle_part&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headset_(bicycle_part&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4190" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T22:00:10.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9839" CreationDate="2012-06-12T00:17:18.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For commuting I bought a bike with 700x32 wheels (following advice from Q+As on this site) and put 'Marathon Plus' tires on them. Those tires seem bullet-proof to me, and would surely take your weight well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T00:17:18.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9840" CreationDate="2012-06-12T03:21:09.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried SLIME or similar sealant? Saw this one a while back, way more hard core than slime, but after looking into it I decided Slime works best for me (I only ever get thorns, high PSI will usually prevent most glass from sticking long enough to puncture) - &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/-ounJzhUZFg?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a sealant allows you to keep any tire you prefer. Cons: can be messy, doesnt prevent snakebites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T03:21:09.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9840" CreationDate="2012-06-12T03:41:17.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are just commuting and dont need much performance wise, you might look into the foam inserts like these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/L1mKJO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/L1mKJO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are a pain to get on and almost impossible to get off (I had to cut my tire to get it off) but they never get flats. The biggest problem is that I need my tires to be 85+ psi and I have not found any to replicate over 65. Another problem some say is that if you hit a pothole that the impact goes directly into your rims, with weak rims that would be a problem, but I have triple walls. But like I said, I would only use these on commuter bikes rather than performance bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T03:41:17.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2012-06-12T04:04:29.137" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always BEST to just replace the tire, but... I have ridden my tires with a gash of an inch or longer. I couldnt recommend it to everyone (legal issues) but I do it all the time. I take an old tube, cut about a 2 inch section out of it (so you have a 2 inch long tube, not just a patch), wrap duct tape around it then duct tape that onto the inside of the tire.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6sSje.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Duct Tape Patch&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will poke out the cut a little, but as long as you have a decent tire, your chords will keep it from ripping more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T04:04:29.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9840" CreationDate="2012-06-12T04:36:15.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first best solution would be bigger tires. 22's are really light weight and are intended for racing, not commuting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foldable tires are also usually a little thinner more prone to punctures than non-foldable tires. So get something non-foldable. Bonus: non-foldable tires are usually cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most companies make tires that are &quot;puncture-resistant.&quot; They have an extra layer embedded in the rubber that helps prevent flats. You won't actually be able to see it but they'll probably have a cutaway picture on the label. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone else suggested, you could use slime. I've never used it, but I know people who swear by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T04:36:15.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9821" CreationDate="2012-06-12T05:34:34.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a motorcycle (Honda 750 Shadow) and use sunglasses with a foam around the rims like these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/Oo2ode&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/Oo2ode&lt;/a&gt; (those are prescriptions), or you could get some MX goggles like these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/Oo3JAz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/Oo3JAz&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/Kjrj2s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/Kjrj2s&lt;/a&gt; and keep your regular glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T05:34:34.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4656" CreationDate="2012-06-12T07:40:25.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be as simple as this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;action = reaction. If the bike is upright, it will stay upright unless there are sideway forces. This is true even when the bike is not moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if there's some force that disrupt the balance, there needs to be an equal amount of counteracting force to maintain balance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when the bike is moving, steering will translate some of forward momentum into sideways force, so steering can be used to balance the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on a roller, the bike can move sideways to balance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moving the weight of the rider shouldn't generate sideway force because to move to one side, the rider needs to push the bike on the other direction with same amount of force. Any success with this can be attributed to inefficiencies in the system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there's the gyroscopic effect of the wheels that can alter the amount and direction to forces that work on the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T07:40:25.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-12T14:17:04.183" Score="4" ViewCount="6321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replace the non-Shimano rear brake that came with my bike with either Shimano 105 (BR-5700) or Tiagra (BR-4600) brakes, preferably the 105 model. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8656/replace-ultegra-6600-sti-lever?answertab=votes#tab-top&quot;&gt;Shimano compatiblity chart&lt;/a&gt; says the 10 speed Tiagra (ST-4600) levers are compatible but the bike has the older Tiagra ST-4500 levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the ST-4500 levers be able to work &lt;strong&gt;well&lt;/strong&gt; with these newer brakes or do I have to trudge off to eBay and try to find older Shimano 105s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4295" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T13:16:11.023" Title="Can Shimano Tiagra 9 speed levers (ST-4500) be used with 105 brakes (BR-5700)?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9861" CreationDate="2012-06-12T14:48:51.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you use a Shimano brake caliper designed for a road STI lever, which is any Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, or Dura-Ace, they will work not just well, but perfectly. There may be a performance difference, but there will not be a compatibility difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even most 3rd party brake calipers will work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New additional information: Starting with the Dura-Ace 9000 and Ultegra 6800 groups, there are differences in the brake caliper design which require levers which match the design. They also recommend, but do not require, a specific type of cable to get full benefit from the new brake design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T13:16:11.023" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T13:16:11.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9865" CreationDate="2012-06-12T15:15:00.417" Score="13" ViewCount="27130" Body="&lt;p&gt;My back tire got flat. If I pump it up now, it can hold the air for about 30 minutes to an hour before it's totally flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took out the inner-tube yesterday, pump in a bit air and put it into water, trying to find a hole but couldn't find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that the tire is too old and I must replace it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: thanks to all your response. Beside soap water, I found out hot water is really helpful and that was what I used to fix my tire. There was a very tiny hole on the tube that I couldn't find when I used room temperature water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2315" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T23:22:25.100" LastActivityDate="2020-12-04T05:55:27.103" Title="If I can't find the hole causing a flat tire, do I need to replace the tube?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9867" CreationDate="2012-06-12T15:24:55.333" Score="-1" ViewCount="1486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BT30RU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Saris Bones 3 strap-on bike rack&lt;/a&gt; for my Honda Odyssey EX 2001. However, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saris.com/en/vehicle-racks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fit guide&lt;/a&gt; on the Saris website does not list 2001 model. I called their customer service and was told that it could fit my car but I might have to change the upper hook straps. However, they couldn't tell me where to find the different ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the Saris Bones 3 rack fit Odyssey 2001? If not, what am I likely to have to do to get the rack to fit a different car to what it's designed for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2315" LastEditorUserId="3582" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T13:03:13.727" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T13:03:13.727" Title="How to put Saris Bones 3 rack on Honda Odyssey 2001?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9863" CreationDate="2012-06-12T15:26:12.877" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it can be hard to find a small hole. Sometimes it helps to mix water and dish soap together and either pour that over the partially inflated tire, scanning for leaks or submerging the tire in a bucket of soapy water.  The soap will bubble and make holes more apparent.  You also probably want to immerse the valve to see if the leak may be originating from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is coming from the valve, then you will want to go ahead and just replace the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-06-12T17:23:42.177" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T17:23:42.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9863" CreationDate="2012-06-12T16:00:55.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the question directly, yes, if your tube is losing air that quickly, it needs repair. It is not a matter of simply being too old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is likely a very small hole or a leak in the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the tube, or patch it. Benzo's soapy water suggestion will work very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T16:00:55.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9864" CreationDate="2012-06-12T16:05:36.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;it looks like any hatchback. I have a toyota matrix and here is how I do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the inner legs so they sit on the &quot;step&quot; of the bumper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the outer legs so they rest against the back window - this makes them almost parallel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place all straps in the appropriate locations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten down lower straps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten upper straps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten side straps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat all tightening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue I see might be the fairing on the top of your window. A lot of trunk mount racks are hindered by this because you can't really tighten down the straps enough to properly secure the rack. if you can go UNDER the fairing and attach to the edge, that would be advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hitch mount rack might be better suited for your vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T16:05:36.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9869" CreationDate="2012-06-12T16:22:13.430" Score="12" ViewCount="1832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen these on a few bikes. What is the purpose :S&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPmY9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastEditorUserId="3582" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T13:02:58.563" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T21:54:48.857" Title="What is this rubber ring around the top tube for" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9868" CreationDate="2012-06-12T16:24:25.167" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;It protects the frame from the handlebars. The handlebars, unrestricted by brake or derailleur cables, can rotate freely to the point that they can smack into the top tube. This is particularly easy to do when carrying the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T16:24:25.167" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9863" CreationDate="2012-06-12T19:50:13.393" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the tube out and pump it up so that it balloons to 2-3 times its normal size. There have been times when the puncture is too small to detect in normal situations, even soapy water, but this has never failed me! Even the smallest puncture, like from a brake cable sliver, will show itself. Listen for the hiss and then mark it with a pen to find it after you deflate it (Usually I make 4 lines coming out away from the hole, like an X but with the middle taken out, this pic is just an X, but the 4 lines makes it easier to pinpoint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't produce any results it might be in the valve. If you have a Schrader, get your finger wet and put it lightly over the top (I spit on the ground and put my finger in it) this will allow you to feel any air leaking out. With a Presta it is a little harder, but wrap your wet thumb and index finder around the top of the valve to check it. Most of the time you can fix the Schrader using a core tool, not sure you can do anything to fix a Presta (but aside from a bent core bolt I've never seen a Presta valve leak)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQaEO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T19:50:13.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9868" CreationDate="2012-06-12T20:12:33.933" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have also seen them used to protect the paint while the bike is on a trunk mounted rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T20:12:33.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9874" CreationDate="2012-06-12T20:57:28.913" Score="1" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got my first (sprint) triathlon coming up at the end of July. I need a bike to train and race on. I'm comfortable on both road and MTB style bikes, but haven't ridden on either in several years. I could see myself using either style well after the tri is over. It doesn't seem like I should spring right into a tri bike since that's a pretty specific setup and I wasn't too comfortable on the one I test rode. I've also seen a tri-cross bike that looked like a good combination of a road and off-road setups, though I haven't had a chance to test ride one yet. My immediate goal is just to finish this upcoming race, but I would like to continue biking more afterwards and that may or may not include future triathlons. I've got a budget big enough to put me on an entry level tri or a mid-level road bike. Or should I just go with a generic road bike and be able to get an entry level MTB bike too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not necessarily looking for a specific make/model (unless there's a hybrid you think I should try), more for what would be the &lt;strike&gt;best&lt;/strike&gt; most practical configuration given my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4299" LastEditorUserId="3124" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T02:41:34.350" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T02:41:34.350" Title="What's a good setup for an experienced but rusty cyclist training for his first triathlon?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;cross-training&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9873" CreationDate="2012-06-12T21:23:34.183" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably don't want to spring for a specific time trial bike straight out of the gate - you might hate the triathlon experience, for one thing! Given that you're planning on using the bike after this events, albeit possibly with other events down the pipe, I'd be looking for something that you can get the best use of after the event. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a road bike would seem to be the better bet - possible with a set of clip-on tri-bars; while not everyone gets on with them (not all road bike/ride combinations work with the correct geometry) they are generally considered faster - you're in definitely in a drag-reducing pose and they force you to stay still a lot more, which is better, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tri-cross sounds, erm, &lt;em&gt;intriguing&lt;/em&gt;. A time trial/triathlon bike will be set up to encourage a mono-position with speed, probably with a longer, lower back/body position. A cross bike generally has more clearance and encourages a head position almost over the bars, a shorter top tube and more clearance to enable better control on a uncertain terrain - these would seem to conflict ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the years I've seen triathlons done on many types of bikes - even sit-up-and-beg shopping bikes with a basket! You won't be doing it for speed, but you'll finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the bike that you would think you'll get use off after the event. This will result in several things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you'll have spent your money on something you'll use &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you'll finish the triathlon &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you'll have set yourself a (beatable) target time for the next event &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you're going to be in a much better position in a few months, after the event and after a bit more training, to know what'll work for you. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then get all of the above: once you start racing, commuting, shopping and training on the bike you'll be able to justify a time trial, commuter, road and MTB ... and even then you'll probably find another type you're missing! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T21:23:34.183" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9804" CreationDate="2012-06-12T23:33:07.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're ok with destroying your stem, sawing through it will definitely work. You won't even have to get all the way through it, just a bit over half. Once you've sawn through the bolt that runs through the center it'll all come apart just the same as if you'd unscrewed it until it came out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've never sawn through a stem before. I don't imagine that the metal would be too hard for your garden-variety hack saw, but some bike parts are (I'm thinking specifically of a bottom bracket spindle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T23:33:07.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9764" CreationDate="2012-06-13T06:38:50.730" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer to your question is &quot;probably between 2.5 and 3.5 miles; the faster the runner the closer to 2.5 while the slower the runner the closer to 3.5.&quot; The long answer is quite long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you already noted in your question, the full answer depends on pace; but it also depends on the surface being run or ridden on, whether it is up hill, down hill, or flat, whether it is windy or calm, and how &quot;aero&quot; the cyclist is. That said, if we are talking about a road bike on a firm flat surface under calm conditions, it is possible to make some estimates of the “equivalent” distance. The simple answer is given in the chart below, which relates the distance one must cycle in a given amount of time to equal the effort in running a mile at a given pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWtHZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;equivalent cycling distance for running one mile at given pace&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this chart, the x-axis is the run pace for a mile and the y-axis shows the distance one must cycle in the same amount of time. For example, if you can run a mile in 4 minutes, an equivalent cycling distance if you were riding &quot;in the drops&quot; would be to ride about 2 miles in the same 4 minutes (that is, to average 30 mph). If you ran a mile at a 10 minute/mile pace, it would take you 10 minutes to run a mile and an equivalent cycling distance would be to ride about 3.5 miles in the same 10 minutes (that is, to average about 21 mph). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How was the chart calculated? In running, the power needed to run X meters/second is approximately X watts/kg of body weight (cf. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15570150&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hall, Figueroa, Fernhall, and Kanaley, 2004&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books/about/Exercise_Physiology.html?id=SRptlOx7yj4C&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;McArdle, Katch &amp;amp; Katch, 2007&lt;/a&gt;), while the power needed to ride at Y meters/second varies with Y^3 (cf. &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books/about/Bicycling_Science.html?id=0JJo6DlF9iMC&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wilson and Papadopoulos, 2007&lt;/a&gt;). Thus, if we know the amount of time it takes to run a mile, the weight of the individual and the bike, and some other simplifying assumptions we can make the conversion. An exact estimate of running power will depend on the individual's gross metabolic efficiency, the runner's energetic economy (that is, how economical in an energy sense is the individual's running style), and the runner's resting metabolic rate, but it is commonly observed that for a normal-sized individual without unusual abilities or disabilities, energy expenditure while running on a firm flat surface will range between about 0.8 to 1.1 kcal/kg/km. Thus, a common rule of thumb is that running requires about 1 kcal/kg/km. There are 4.2 joules per kilocalorie but gross metabolic efficiency usually lies in the range of 19-25%; if we assume a value of 23.8% for GME, we can derive the happy simplification that (running speed in meters per second)*(body weight in kg) is a reasonable estimate of power in watts; or speed in meters/second ~ watts/kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this chart, I first calculated the speed in meters per second for various running paces along the x-axis, from a 4 minute mile (= ~6.7 m/s) to a 10 minute mile (= ~2.7 m/s). By the running rule of thumb, this requires roughly 6.7 watts/kg down to about 2.7 watts/kg. I then presumed “average” values for the coefficient of rolling resistance (Crr) of .005, flat ground, no wind, and a CdA (drag area) of the cyclist of 0.25, 0.33, and 0.42 sq. meters (typical of a road bike rider &quot;on aerobars&quot;, &quot;in the drops&quot;, and &quot;on the hoods&quot;) and calculated the cycling speed for a cyclist able to produce between 6.7 watts/kg and 2.7 watts/kg. The running pace defines a total amount of time needed to run a mile so the question becomes &quot;how far must a cyclist producing this much power ride in the same amount of elapsed time?&quot; Knowing the speed and the elapsed time lets us calculate the distance. That is what is shown on the y-axis. Note that for the fastest runners, the equivalent cycling distance approaches 2 miles while for the slowest runners competing against the most aerodynamic cyclists, the equivalent cycling distance approaches 4 miles. Thus, for a friendly race between you and your co-worker, if neither of you is a world-class athlete, a reasonable range is 2.5x - 3.5x the running distance to handicap a race so that you both finish in approximately the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cyclist were a bit more aerodynamic (for example, if the cyclist used aerobar extensions and subsequent CdA was below 0.25 m^2) the curve would move upward and the rider would have to ride farther in the same amount of time (that is, faster) to match the runner's energy expenditure. If the cyclist were a bit less aerodynamic (for example, if the cyclist's position was more upright, or was wearing loose and flappy clothing) the rider would be expending energy at a faster rate so the curve would move down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rough validation of this approximation is that, anecdotally, people who both run and cycle say that running 10 km in about 42 minutes is roughly about as hard as riding 40 km in an hour. That's a running pace of about 6:45 per mile, and the chart equates that to cycling about 2.75 miles in 6:45, or about 24.5 mph -- which is 39 km/h. Our rule of thumb for equivalence is &quot;between 2.5 and 3.5 times as far; closer to 2.5 times if the runner is fast and closer to 3.5 for a slower runner.&quot; Running a mile at a 6:45 pace is moderately fast, so we would expect the equivalent multiplier for cycling distance to be closer to 2.5 than to 3.5 -- as you can see, the predicted multiplier is 2.75 so the rule of thumb appears to work. Further evidence can be gathered from duathlons or triathlons. Below you can see data from the 2010 Ironman World Championship in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. The Ironman comprises a 2.3-mile ocean swim, a 112-mile bike ride, and a 26.2-mile marathon. The scatterplot matrix below shows the swim, bike, and run times (in hours) for each of the finishers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZFcW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ironman 2010 scatterplot matrix&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we ignore the swim leg and concentrate only on the relationship between the run and the bike, we can prorate them to equivalent 10k run times and 40k bike times, as is done here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a60jp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ironman 2010 run and bike standardized to 10k and 40k times&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What these latter two charts clearly show is that equivalent bike distance will depend heavily on run pace but also on the individual. There is a great deal of &quot;scatter&quot; in the scatterplot, which indicates that while the rule of thumb is reasonable it is not precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2013-03-17T18:53:00.243" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T18:53:00.243" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2012-06-13T18:54:42.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a new free app called Bikepath Country that has simple point A to point B cycling directions. You can also get suggested rides for any area. It's available on Android and iPhone, so whichever you decide to stay with/go to! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;iPhone: &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bikepath/id513898258?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bikepath/id513898258?mt=8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Website with more info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepathcountry.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikepathcountry.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4302" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T18:54:42.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9790" CreationDate="2012-06-13T20:19:12.480" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happen to be one of those who attract new riders into the sport, and have given the basic training to many people. Here is a brief of what I try to teach them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be ready to react&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have your bike properly tuned/fitted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scan the terrain(Look forward)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a proper braking technique&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never get to the extremes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grow progressively&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The most important: &lt;strong&gt;never stop trying/practicing!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The attack position&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The position that works best for me is slightly raised from your seat, knees bent, lowered torso with elbows bent. Feet at the same height with the dominant foot on front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ready to react: Your hands should be firmly gripping your handlebar, but not tense. One or two fingers ready to activate brakes. Choose the fingers you want on the bar based on whether you get the best grip. It is a little more important to control the handlebars than to freak-ly squeezing the brakes all the time. This is critical over rock or roots sections that shake the bike in all directions. You need to hold those bars captain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides this, your elbows and knees should be slightly bent at all times, giving you chance to extend or contract them as needed, so you absorb terrain irregularities as you pass them over. It is like moving the bike around you (up/down, front/rear, right/left). This is why I do not recommend to sit way back arms fully stretched: In this position you have no freedom steer or to lower the bike while entering a hole or a &quot;step down&quot;. An easy way of thinking is this: Your arms and legs are &quot;your&quot; suspension, you want to be positioned rather in the middle of its travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Properly tuned&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should tune your bike as best as possible. This includes brakes and suspension (if any). Your brakes should be at best performing shape. This is a whole complete subject, so I wont go deeper on this, but basically, they must have won your confidence. The levers should be placed where you can be more effective to apply the brakes. The distance between the brake lever clamp and the handlebar grip should allow you to actuate the lever with the index finger, the middle finger or both. The &quot;reach&quot; is how far is the lever from the grip when brakes are nor being applied. This distance should make comfortable for you to grab the lever, not too far that it is difficult, not to close your fingers get tangled with it. Also, when you apply the brakes, the lever should go down to the position where your fingers feel stronger doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suspension should be properly adjusted too. The two main adjustments are preload and rebound speed. Preload is how &quot;stiff&quot; is the suspension and it determines &quot;sag&quot; Sag is how deep the suspension travels on rider weight. A proper amount of sag allows the wheels to travel down when required. When you have too little sag your tire looses contact with the ground too easily and you loose control. Too much sag makes the suspension makes it easy to bottom down, hitting the far end of the suspension travel. This may also lead to loss of control or another failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rebound speed is how fast the shock absorber returns after hitting an obstacle. too fast and the bike will feel shaky (you'll feel no confidence) and maybe it will bounce off the ground loosing traction. Too slow and it will feel like getting stuck after a bump, effectively it will not be ready for the next bump if it comes too quickly. The correct intermediate position depends on your riding style and the particular terrain characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other adjustments that can be made, but they vary a lot model to model, brand to brand, so the best approach is to refer to the user's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Scan the terrain&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look forward, never look down to the tire. The faster you want to go, the further up the trail you must look. Scan the terrain and look for the best line. Choose areas where you have more traction, or surfaces were is better/safer to brake. Dry solid rock or compact ground are commonly good options. There is a saying that the bike will go wherever you are looking at, so, focus on your route, choose where you want to go and stay there! It is common for a rider to stare at that rock sticking out, having fear of it, and... crashing into it. Avoid that behavior, don't stare at obstacles, but trace your path around or over it, and focus in that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Braking technique&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important skill regarding brakes (IMHO) is knowing when NOT to apply them. Braking is instinctive, as soon as you feel danger, you'll squeeze the brakes. But there are a lot of situations where it's best not to. First of all, never squeeze the levers quick and hard: this makes you lock up your tires and loose traction. You have to be gentle. Usually you have to release your brakes when going over wet roots, slippery rocks, etc. Specially you should release your front brake just before hitting a rock or a hole, so it will be free to roll over the obstacle and thus avoid being tipped over the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend to use BOTH brakes at the same time. You'll find a lot of divergent opinions about this but, I've found that each brake serves a purpose. The rear brake alone can slow you down just a bit,  but it tends to straighten the bike while over slippery surfaces or loose sand/gravel, a little like the rudder on a plane. The front brake can stop you down, but it tends to trow you to the front. It is vital to learn to brake without locking up the wheels, specially during a turn. If you are focused on where you are headed, it is more dangerous to over-brake than to brake a little less. It is also important not to hold the brakes all the way down, thus avoiding overheating, which can lead to brake failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Never get to the extremes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never adopt extreme postures. Not to far back, not to low. I made such mistakes at my beginnings, but I had to correct those. Stretching to be too far back lessen your ability to maneuver. Using the seat too low for &quot;improved stability&quot; also puts your legs in an awkward position that does not let you negotiate ups and downs. While going downhill over the roughest section you should be off the saddle to avoid hitting your spine anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Grow progressively&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never try too hard to get up to your buddy's riding level, do not take risks that are beyond you skills. Go a little at a time. Practice a lot. Find the way of practicing the obstacles over and over. Grow in technique before you grow in speed. Each kind of obstacle requires specific movements, as you learn them, you need to build &quot;muscular memory&quot; before taking it to another level, so be patient, &lt;strong&gt;but never stop trying/practicing&lt;/strong&gt;. Be humble and practice even what you feel you've mastered. When you conquer an obstacle/jump/drop etc. for the first time, try to go back and do it again, and again, and again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have already built skills in some of these areas, but each one of these points has way more to discuss about. I'll be happy to go deeper in any subject if I find questions directed more specifically towards any of them. &lt;em&gt;My credentials: I am a cross country and downhill rider with a few podium positions at local DH races ;) .&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T16:54:22.440" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T16:54:22.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2012-06-13T21:23:57.617" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to walk there is an iPhone app with very detailed instructions. useful if you get somewhere and then want to walk in a circular walk around a city or rural area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;iFootpath.com is for the UK only but works well for fallowing routes with photos, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iFootpath.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.iFootpath.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4303" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T21:23:57.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9635" CreationDate="2012-06-14T04:57:41.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a pasty white guy in the antipodes, and I burn like a sausage on flaming barbeque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I much prefer cloth-based sunscreen. That adds cooling as well as sun protection, and doesn't leave a greasy residue that has to be washed off. Getting sunscreen to stay on areas that are hot, sweaty and being rubbed is not easy and rarely effective. My preference is not to ride when it's that hot and sunny, leave early or arrive late instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can't do that I wear long sleeves and a hat, with full coverage gloves as well. With a nice floppy hat and a hood or hat-flap it's only my face that's actually exposed [1]. I find this is cooler than being exposed and using suncreen, which in Australia can be handy (cycling when the air is much above body core temperature is unpleasant). For my face I do find I need something on my nose and occasionally lips, which is I dislike. But when I have to I use baby beach products, usually a stick. I figure anything designed to stay on an infant at the beach will work for me, and since I'm using a tiny amount of it occasionally the cost isn't really relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I look for tradespeople's clothing because that usually works better than cycling clothes. It's generally fluorescent, hard-wearing and affordable as well as SPF 50+, plus it's designed to be worn by hot sweaty people. Also, you get pockets. Finding long pants in lightweight fluoro can be tricky, but they are made (at least in Oz).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T04:57:41.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-14T09:38:56.523" Score="3" ViewCount="1180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been having some bottom bracket (BB) woes. Noticed a click on the top of the left pedal stroke so decided to re-grease the BB. Took it apart cleaned and re-greased everything, then put it back together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roll forward a week. I notice that my cranks sticking here and there, it gets progressively worse on the ride. I get it home and off the bike notice my bike has turned into a rain-stick (this provided no calming effect). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Queue another strip down of the BB.&#xA;Upon inspection, I found all the bearings on the drive side were out of the cage, which now would no longer hold them. I pinched the cages with pliers to secure the ball bearings back in place, re-greased &amp;amp; repacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lifted my bike out today for my cycle to work and jingle-jingle; LOOSE BEARING!&#xA;Cycle to work was sub 3 miles so risked it.&#xA;Want to take care of this ASAP, so my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. I figure I am over-tighting the bottom bracket, causing the damage to the cage, however what else could cause it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. What size bearings does an Italian threaded BB take?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BB info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campagnolo Italian threaded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;plastic sleeve is in two parts, the smaller part pushes into the&#xA;other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 caged bearings from memory 8/9 bearings in each cage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two screw-in cones, one locking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pics of my spindle:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyFp8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brev. whatever that means&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D6rcB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2018-08-27T20:49:15.463" LastActivityDate="2018-08-27T21:16:42.627" Title="Bottom bracket bearing issues" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9937" CreationDate="2012-06-14T15:00:15.380" Score="5" ViewCount="1149" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will be my first long distance cycle over 100km's / 62 miles. &#xA;Last weekend I did a 60km / 37 mile cycle without too much difficulty, so I'm pretty sure I can get through at least day 1, day 2 will be a struggle but then again I have the whole day on Sunday and can move as slow as I want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the gear I am going with :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike: Trek 7.2 FX (2011) (Stock standard, no mods) - recently serviced!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pants: decent mountain bike cycle pants with pads (not sure on the brand, but a good pair)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shirt: regular cotton t-shirt (nothing fancy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jersey / Jacket : None&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backpack : CamelBack HAWG 20 - holds 3l of liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nav : Garmin Dakota 20 with heart monitor - and map planned - route broken down into 5 stages routing along cycle paths mainly, no major roads, except for the odd crossing here and there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shoes: Beach style summer sandals with velcro straps - no socks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contents of backpack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Spare inner tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x AA battery spares for the Dakota&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x MP3 player with charging cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Phone with charging cable &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initially 3l of pure cold water in the reservoir&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wallet (cash + credit card + id + medical insurance card)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puncture repair kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x pump (nice and compact and proven to work)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x Camera and charger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 x Clean underwear change. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food and additional drinking material I intend to buy on route until I get out far into the country after about 50km's then I'll buy some stock for the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have I missed, and any additional tips for this ride are welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last thing I would like to add, I've read on some sites that listening to music while cycling isn't advisable, what would you say? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I take some form of self protection for the road? Mace or maybe a hunting knife - I mean you never know? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys - look forward to the responses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T17:00:53.723" Title="Doing a 230km / 142 mile cycle this weekend over 2 days, what vital equipment am I missing?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2012-06-14T15:18:56.833" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out Strava - it's a little more geared towards training and road cycling, but has some fun features (ex - recognizes hills on your route and ranks your time based on other strava users who have done the same climb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you use, don't forget to look up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.strava.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4309" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T15:18:56.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9883" CreationDate="2012-06-14T16:13:48.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure where you plan on riding, but unless you need self protection on your 60 km ride, then I would recommend against it (for the weight alone).  As far as your list is concerned, I would look into Chamois Cream, I prefer Assos, but other brands work just as well.  You will need it because 100 km of riding will generate a lot of friction in your crotch.  I would also recommend a nice sunscreen.  I prefer Hawaiian Tropic 50 SPF, but whichever your preference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a post recovery snack, I highly recommend drinking some chocolate milk.  It has the right combination of protein and sugar to help with recovery (and it tastes great).  It really helps when you have back-to-back long rides.  Don't forget the advil either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For on the road snacks consider energy supplements such as GU or Energy Beans.  They give you electrolytes and carbs (more than a candy bar).  And they are easy to open, even when on the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as listening to music while riding...I use earbuds but only put it in the ear on the side farthest from traffic.  In the States we drive/ride on the right side of the road, so the ear bud goes in the right ear.  This allows me to enjoy music, while still being able to hear traffic.  Music is much needed on those long rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4254" LastEditorUserId="4254" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T19:05:44.643" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T19:05:44.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9883" CreationDate="2012-06-14T16:42:14.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should probably bring some tools along in case you need to do some minor repairs. A multi-tool (or separate tools) with allen keys, a chain tool, and a spoke wrench would probable be quite useful, and wouldn't weight you down too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably pack at least 2 tubes, because a single incident could result in 2 un-patchable tubes. Plus it's easier to just swap out tubes, and then patch them later at a planned rest stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the condition of your bike (yours is newer, so it might be unnecessary) you might want to consider packing some brake and shifter cables, and a couple extra spokes because they are light anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I use a rear rack and pannier when I'm carrying stuff. Having all that stuff on your back can use quite a bit of extra energy, Especially if you are getting out of the saddle a lot. I would recommend this if you plan to do a lot more trips. If you don't, it's probably not worth the expense.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do plan to bring protection, make sure it's packed in a way such that you won't injure yourself if you fall from your bike.  Something with a folding blade would probably be ideal. Speaking of which, you should probably bring a first aid kit as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I wouldn't ride with music on.  But bring the MP3 player along anyway. It will give you something to listen to when resting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T00:22:40.773" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:22:40.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9883" CreationDate="2012-06-14T17:17:35.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't wear the same cycling shorts 2 days in a row if you're not going to be able to wash/dry them.  I'd take an extra pair of padded cycling shorts.  You don't want your bits feeling funky.  Throw in some chamoise cream (even if you just get a couple single use packets of it, it will help avoid chaffing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same with the shirt, probably want a fresh one for day 2. I wouldn't want to be stuck in a soaking wet cotton shirt, I'd switch to a wicking material if I had the option.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd bring a second tube just in case you get 2 bad flats. Definitely bring a multi-tool and tire levers along with your patch kit to do any basic adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also agree that it sucks having stuff in a bag on your back, it traps a lot of heat and sweat on you.  You can definitely get by with this, but I recommend mounting that stuff on your bike rather than your body. Get a rack, seatbag, handlebar bag, or whatever works for you.  It's not really a need, more of a want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T17:17:35.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9883" CreationDate="2012-06-14T18:55:04.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1 on the recommendations to bring tools and at least two tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also +1 on the recommendation to bring a second set of cycling shorts. At a minimum, bring a second set of padded liners (assuming your shorts have detachable liners). Mounting the saddle on day 2 with a cold, wet, soggy liner is unpleasant at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider bringing fizzy water tablets (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nuun.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nuun&lt;/a&gt;). In addition to providing much-needed electrolytes, they help mask the taste of any hose water you get along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably need a pair of padded gloves. You'll be spending a lot of time holding the handlebars, and your hands will definitely get tired (and possibly raw) if unprotected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ibuprofen is your friend after a long day in the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T18:55:04.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9891" CreationDate="2012-06-14T20:04:13.010" Score="7" ViewCount="7048" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brakes were working normally until I adjust them today. I thought the brake pads were too close to the rims so I increase the distance a bit. Now every time I brake, they make horrible squeaking sound. However, when I test them in slow motion, they won't make that noise. My guess is only when the bike is moving fast, the brake pad cannot hold the wheel strong enough; consequently, the wheel slides on the pads causing the squeaking noise. Please correct me on that if I'm wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I wonder if there's any golden rule on the optimal distance between brake pads and rims? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2315" LastEditorUserId="4175" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T20:25:39.267" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T17:29:06.373" Title="Why do my brakes squeak? Do I have an incorrect distance between brake pads and rims?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2012-06-14T20:47:47.683" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any established best practices other than &quot;as close as possible, without any rubbing through a full revolution of the wheel&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T20:47:47.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2012-06-14T20:52:21.500" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, you should have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/341062-how-to-stop-my-bicycle-brakes-from-squeaking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slight angle&lt;/a&gt; (called &quot;toe-in&quot;) between the rims and the pads to prevent them from squeaking.  Angle them so that the front of the pad angles towards the rim. When applying full force, the entire brake pad should come in contact with the rim. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2591/how-do-i-make-my-brakes-stop-squealing&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for more information about relieving squeaking from your brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T20:25:47.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9897" CreationDate="2012-06-14T21:33:41.193" Score="4" ViewCount="54749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a shifting problem on a bike that has a crank with a triple set of chainrings.  The bike is a tandem.  I have to put a great deal of effort to get it to shift into the big ring.  Where should I start?  Is there a simple adjustment I should look at first or should just jump right to replacing cables and housing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vitals:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; * STI shifters&lt;br&gt;&#xA; * 2004 Shimano Tiagra&lt;br&gt;&#xA; * triple&lt;br&gt;&#xA; * tandem&lt;br&gt;&#xA; * probably same cables/housing from 2004.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; * bike has 4000 miles on it, maybe more  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="496" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T04:43:06.063" Title="Front derailleur is hard to shift into the big ring. Where to start?" Tags="&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4366" CreationDate="2012-06-14T21:54:37.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like you have other problems, i.e. spoke tension on your wheels is out of wack.  Yes, you can shift while standing.  Sprinters do it all the time, tandem riders to it all the time.  You can do it all the time, you just need to maintain your bike properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="496" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T21:54:37.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2839" CreationDate="2012-06-14T21:57:24.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;General rule is: Whoever is bigger should ride in the front.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="496" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T21:57:24.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3127" CreationDate="2012-06-14T22:00:56.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not count on S&amp;amp;S couplers to transport the bike.  That is a whole lot of misery to go through just to move the bike from point a to point b.  I would consider any kind of roof rack that could work with your car.  I would not compromise on the bike by choosing something like a bike Friday. I would adapt my transportion to my bike of choice,  I might consider the SeaSucker rack as it offers a bunch of flexibility.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="496" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T22:00:56.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3545" CreationDate="2012-06-14T22:03:04.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not enough weight is on the back of the bike.  Try riding the bike without a stoker and see if you get the same behavior out of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="496" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T22:03:04.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9892" CreationDate="2012-06-14T23:30:49.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not uncommon with the old Shimano components.  I had the same front derailleur and 105 STI 9-speed shifters and I had to really crank it to go into the larger cogs.  The bike shop replaced the cabling (there wasn't much housing) and that really didn't help all that much, though I wish it did.  The problem sort of fixed itself when I purchased a new bike with modern components.  2009 or later shimano 105 (shifters and derailleurs) are much, much easier to shift up through the cogs.  Just push the button and it takes care of the rest.  No having to push on it to get it to the next cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sorry I wish there was more I could recommend, but in my experience, there is not much you can do with that setup... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4254" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T23:30:49.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2012-06-15T01:13:52.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll share my personal formula, which I use myself and in a couple bikes I often perform maintenance to, and that are ridden by other people. These tips are for V-brake or &quot;linear pull&quot; type, but the same can be applied to other types too, at least caliper and cantilever, as long as they are cable actuated (i.e. no hydraulic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, I check brake &lt;strong&gt;pad alignment&lt;/strong&gt;. This step is critical for good braking performance, and this bit is the one that can affect your noise problem. It also affects the perceived &quot;correct&quot; distance between pads and rim, but this topic slightly falls outside your question, so, I'll just assume you have your pads aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most a linear pull (v-brake), cantilever or caliper type brakes, the distance between pads and rim is determined by the &quot;length&quot; of brake cable relative to the length of the casing, adjuster barrels, cable stops and other items in cable routing. &lt;strong&gt;Cable slack&lt;/strong&gt; increases brake lever &quot;travel&quot; which means how far you have to move the lever until it effectively starts braking. This distance is the critical parameter for me, this is personal because it depends on your hand size and the combination of lever/grips you use. Also, your hands have a natural point in which they &lt;em&gt;&quot;squeeze harder&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. This is the point where it takes less effort for you to actuate the levers. Your levers should move so they begin the real braking action just a little before you reach this &lt;em&gt;&quot;hard squeeze&quot;&lt;/em&gt; position. This way you have your hand in optimal position when you need to brake hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start by screwing down any adjusting barrels or bolts to a minimum (or near minimum). This will loosen the cable a bit, increasing pad to rim distance and also the &quot;travel&quot; of the brake lever, this means you'll have to press deeper the lever for the brakes to actually touch the rim. These barrels are usually located between the lever and the cable, or between the cable and the caliper (if any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I loosen the bolt that holds the cable to the caliper or the V-brake arms, and while pressing the pads against the rim, pull the cable so there is no slack, and tighten the bolt.. but just a little! only enough to avoid the cable from slipping out from just the spring that separates the pads from the rim. Here is the trick: with one hand, hold the cable between your index and thumb, in such manner as if you loosen the bolt again, your fingers will prevent it from slipping out. Now, &lt;em&gt;slowly&lt;/em&gt; depress the corresponding brake lever until you almost reach your &quot;hard squeeze&quot; distance, meanwhile, the cable will slip between your fingers, but the pads should remain pressed against the rim. Without releasing the cable, tighten the retaining bolt again, this time tighten it fairly tight. Check the lever travel and give the final tightening to the retaining bolt. Repeat for other other lever if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now spin your tires in the air to check whether it rubs the rim. Re-check any bolt you have loosened for proper tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't panic if you don't achieve the perfect adjustment in the first try, you have a second resource: the adjusting barrels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adjusting barrels have two purposes: One is to fine tune this distance. They work by taking up or giving out cable slack. Usually they consist of a &quot;hollow bolt&quot; the cable goes trough, and is bolted to the lever assembly or the caliper. The other end of the bolt receives the casing. By &quot;unscrewing&quot; the barrel, they add distance between the casing and the lever or caliper, thus reducing cable slack. Almost all these adjusters have also a locking nut that you screw all the way down to the lever or caliper, so it prevents the adjuster from moving &quot;on its own&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other use of this is to re adjust the brakes as pad wear increases the distance between rim and pad surface, so you keep the brake lever travel in its optimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an ideal setup, this is it. But there are other considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rim truing and dishing: The rim should be straight and properly centered. Untrued rims will rub the pads in certain part of a wheel revolution, but not all of them. A rim that's not correctly &quot;dished&quot; (i.e. centered) will rub against one pad all the time. V brakes can be easily adjusted toward rim centering because they have two independent return springs, each with an adjuster bolt that regulates it's tension. By balancing both sides' tension you get the pads the same distance from rim. Also a deformed rim may have bulges or cavities that complicate things further. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cable condition: cable and its casing should be in good condition too, not rusted, not overly worn, not sharply bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike fit: Levers should be positioned properly, according to bike style, riding purpose/technique, sizing and personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Component combination: In some cases, certain combination of specific components, brands, designs, can make it very difficult or even impossible to achieve correct adjustment. This is very unlikely to be your case, as you stated your brakes worked fine before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you see this is a practical approach that doesn't deal with millimeters or such. When you finish go for a safe test ride and repeat the procedure if necessary. The first times you'll net a few tries before you conquer it, when you get used to it, you'll be able to do it in one attempt and without needing to move the adjusters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T01:13:52.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-15T07:45:55.150" Score="7" ViewCount="7031" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there something I can do to prevent my bike pedals from wearing out? And what causes the threads on a bike pedal to wear out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 4 year old Raleigh road bike with just regular open pedals. After 300 miles of riding, I had to replace the pedals because one of them broke off when the threads on the arm that the pedal screws into wore out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike repairman offered to send the pedal out to be re-threaded but that would have taken a week and cost more than just replacing the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions or recommendations? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4312" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-06-15T18:23:19.747" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T17:57:04.690" Title="What causes the threads on bike pedals to become stripped?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2012-06-15T08:15:35.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the squeaking, as revealed in other answers to similar questions (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/175/how-do-i-get-my-brakes-to-stop-squealing?rq=1&quot;&gt;e.g.&lt;/a&gt;) is down to the block not getting a reliable 'grip' on the rim and bouncing slightly and re-gripping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first issue is probably that the pads were previously more correct than now, but distance doesn't have to be a factor in squeaking. I imagine that the angle of attack was wrong, but the whole pad was close enough for it all to gain contact with the pressure available and reduce the chance of it losing grip. Now you've moved it further away, there's more scope for the block to bounce, so the similar angle combined with greater distance has made the mistake into a genuine problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you've two options: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move the pads closer - as close as possible without rubbing. If you've a wheel that's true, this can be just enough to be able to see daylight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fix the problem, improve the angle on the pads. But then do option (1.) anyway because you're brakes will feel more positive and will reflect more of your effort. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, some people do like a little more room: if you tend to 'sit' on your brakes, that is your fingers are always there or thereabouts, you might find really close blocks forever engaging the brakes slightly, which can make the ride a little jumpy. YMMV. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T08:15:35.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9899" CreationDate="2012-06-15T08:58:28.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having never had this happen, and having had one bike for over twenty years, I can only think that the pedal must never have been tightened up properly, so it was moving and wearing out - otherwise the pedal/crank connection is actually pretty solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is something that can be hard to tighten, especially as one thread is clockwise and one counterclockwise, which can confuse people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T08:58:28.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9892" CreationDate="2012-06-15T09:03:31.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With my older Shimano setup I found that as it aged I had to adjust the limit screws on the front derailleur to allow it to travel past the correct position because it would then settle back a couple of millimetres - probably most of the cause was old cables, but some was definitely just old/worn components in the derailleur itself allowing flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @bwalk2895 mentioned, it is an age thing - you can hold it off by tweaking (and in fact mine was much older and was still usable when I finally retired it for a new bike) but changing cables is relatively simple and should help a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T09:03:31.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9899" CreationDate="2012-06-15T11:38:51.977" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably means that the pedal was never installed correctly: either it was not tightened enough or it was cross-threaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's actually not that hard to install a pedal incorrectly. If you miss perfectly aligning the threads, it's called cross threading. It's possible to cross thread the pedals and still have them feel like the pedal look like it is installed properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you look closely, you'd see that the pedal isn't perfectly perpendicular to the crank. When you pedal, you'll feel a pop as the pedal goes around when your foot crests and the pedal (due to not being parallel to the crank) has to change orientation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time movements of the pedal relative to the crank will slowly strip out the threads on the crank, on the pedal, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could speculate that your raleigh may have been purchased at a department store, and that it wasn't assembled by a professional. They didn't install the pedal correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T11:38:51.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2012-06-15T14:57:28.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One-cross crosses too close to the hub to interlace.  Otherwise, it's wise to interlace the last crossing, for the reason Brandt points out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the spokes under tension is the whole challenge of wheelbuilding.  It's what keeps the wheel from going out of true and, in the worst case, tacoing.  Note that it's not the spoke, but the rim/nipple interface, that limits how much tension can be put on the spoke.  If you don't interlace, you're giving up that last bit of insurance against untensioning a spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only argument against interlacing would be if spokes habitually broke at the place where they crossed.  I personally have never seen that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding tying and soldering, I think Brandt is correct to debunk the practice.  In all the tied-and-soldered wheels I've seen, the spokes easily slide against each other, so I don't see how it can improve wheel stiffness.  (Brandt shows this empirically.)  The only argument in its favor is that it keeps a busted spoke from flopping around, meaning you could possibly keep riding the bike with a busted spoke.  (This might explain why you still see them in the cobbled classics.  Although more and more teams are simply using standard carbon wheels.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4319" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T14:57:28.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9912" CreationDate="2012-06-15T21:13:26.167" Score="10" ViewCount="20709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a flat tire and replaced the inner tube. I just didn't realize that the tube was a thorn-proof tube when I bought it. It was the only spare one I had, so I used it anyway. Just now I replaced it with a regular tube. I figure I can keep this thorn proof one around just in case I get another flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, I can't get all the air out of the thorn proof tube to store it in the closet. It's schrader valve. I push the pin in and air comes out, but there is still a lot in there. I'm trying to fold it up like a tube of toothpaste while pushing the pin, and it's not working so well. I could cut it and patch it, but then I may as well throw it out and buy a new tube. Is there maybe some way to get my bike pump to work in reverse or otherwise completely deflate this thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1332" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2020-04-02T16:28:46.307" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T16:28:46.307" Title="Is there a way to completely deflate an inner tube?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9905" CreationDate="2012-06-15T21:24:36.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vacuum cleaner with an adapter down to Schrader size?  Pumps usually have valves to avoid pulling in air.  You do not need a hard vacuum, just a minor one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little gross, but if you do not mind, you could use the vacuum device god gave you.  Use a valve tool, remove the valve stem, and then just suck the air out?  Probably taste icky, but I would not imagine it would be dangerous.  (Taste of the air, vs anything else).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A valve stem tool can be faked with a pair of narrow tweezers.  The valve stem itself has the pin in the center of a rectangular piece.  You just grasp two sides and twist to unscrew.  Here is one on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003LNOJUK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; for $0.39!  (Haha!  And $7 in shipping!  Talk about adding insult to injury...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2012-06-17T02:32:37.020" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T02:32:37.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9905" CreationDate="2012-06-16T02:27:06.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wedge the pointy end of the cap a Bic pen (the part that is intended to clip to your shirt pocket) into the valve when you try to roll it up. That'll wedge it open. Just pull the pen cap out when you've got it rolled up nice and neat and you'll be set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: I originally mistyped my answer to say that you should wedge the pointy end of a pen into the valve. It's the pointy end of the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;cap&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that you want to wedge into it. Sorry about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T14:26:51.983" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T14:26:51.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9899" CreationDate="2012-06-16T02:40:31.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that the pedal was cross-threaded.  Either that or it simply wasn't properly tightened to begin with.  (In fact, a right-hand pedal may have been force-fit into the left crank or some such.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any event, the crank arm (in addition to the pedal) is likely damaged beyond use.  The only possible repair of the crank arm is to install a &quot;Helicoil&quot; repair kit, if one can be found of the correct size (and rotation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T02:40:31.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9892" CreationDate="2012-06-16T12:29:49.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, of course, lubricate the cables and assure that the derailers are properly adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, make sure you're not cross-chaining too much when shifting up -- you should have your rear near the outer cog before up-shifting the front, so that the angle of the chain isn't fighting you.  Also, understand that you must let up a hair on the cranks when up-shifting the front -- don't do it under full load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if not that then likely the rings are worn out.  Even if the chain and rings gauge out OK (did you check them??) the ramps on the side of the big ring may be worn to the point that they're no longer effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T12:29:49.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-16T12:49:04.197" Score="6" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son has a &quot;Eurobike&quot; (hybrid/&quot;comfort&quot; bike with Nuvinci variable speed rear hub and fully-enclosed chainline).  He broke a spoke (which is another discussion) and since the spoke broke at the nipple we had to dismount the rear wheel to replace the nipple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, this is the first time any of us (two grown sons and myself) had dealt with such an arrangement, so a little fumbling was exspected.  We removed the two screws securing the cover over the hub area and, after some fiddling, pulled out the wheel.  Replaced nipple and spoke, did some &quot;by guess and by gosh&quot; wheel truing, and went to reinstall the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, long story short, somewhere in the process of getting the wheel back in the chain jumped off the front sprocket.  This created a royal PITA situation in the relatively controlled circumstances where we were (concrete surface in the shade at a camp site) but would have been a total disaster if repairing a puncture on the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The remaining 5-6 (tiny, easily lost) screws securing the chain cover were removed, but it would not come off due to the crank arm blocking it.  So it was a matter of the three of us fishing for the chain with the broken spoke (while prying the halves of the cover apart) to get the chain back on the sprocket, a process that took an extra 10-15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, inexperience was a factor, but it would seem that there's got to be some &quot;trick&quot; to keep the chain in place, other than to just hope to have better luck next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with this and know what could be done differently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T12:57:56.870" LastActivityDate="2017-08-10T08:19:14.850" Title="Dismounting/mounting the back wheel on a &quot;Eurobike&quot;" Tags="&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9905" CreationDate="2012-06-16T13:13:32.777" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you have a Schraeder valve then the core can be easily removed with a simple tool (available for a couple of dollars at any car parts place and some bike shops).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a Presta, OTOH, the core is not usually removable, but it's quite easy to keep the pin depressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the air out of the tube, first fold it in half with the valve near (but not at) one folded end.  Then roll up the tube from the other end, possibly making use of a piece of pipe or such to roll it around.  Or use a can of soup or such as a &quot;steamroller&quot; to press out the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T13:13:32.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9905" CreationDate="2012-06-16T15:25:06.937" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Yehuda Moon (google it), you can take a properly-sized ball bearing (or even a pebble) and put it inside the valve cap, then screw the cap halfway so that the ball/pebble will keep the valve open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you roll the tube like toothpaste, and when you finish you remove the cap and the pebble to avoid the natural elasticity of the tube to suck back some air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T15:25:06.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9882" CreationDate="2012-06-16T20:20:18.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take everything apart,get all the grease out of the bb and feel inside where the bearings go,it should be fairly smooth,do this to both sides and compare the &quot;feel&quot; of each..If it doesn't feel right(burrs,cracks) there's your problem...I just replaced the bearings in my bike and they were 1/4 inch but your bearings will probally be metric in that general size,it's easy enough to find online...don't skimp on the bearings,get grade 25 bearings,there the best...amazon has them for short money and good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4327" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T20:20:18.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9926" CreationDate="2012-06-16T22:21:54.383" Score="13" ViewCount="1237" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my neck of the woods there are some mountain descents that are pretty substantial: say 600 meters vertically averaging 7% grade, with lots of curves and other obstacles like potholes. Typically the surface is reasonable-quality asphalt; I have a touring bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m curious if there are techniques or gadgets to moderate my speed, in order to lessen the need for braking (e.g., in a car one can downshift).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a back-of-the-envelope, computation, consider a 110kg rider/bicycle system coasting down a 7% grade at 50km/hour, or about 13 meters/second. Due to the grade, for every horizontal 13m, s/he descends 0.91m vertically; hence, every second, the potential energy of a 110kg mass dropping 0.91m is added to the bike &amp;amp; rider system and must be removed in order to not accelerate. That potential energy (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potential_energy#Local_approximation&quot;&gt;U=mgh&lt;/a&gt;) is roughly 980 joules; i.e., the cyclist must dissipate about 1kW in order to not accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This surprises me; it seems like a lot of energy to be dumping into the environment. But it's on par with what can be produced by racers to reach similar speeds on the flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't know how to compute is how much energy is consumed by air drag, mechanical friction in the bicycle, rolling resistance, etc., to know really what extra a slowing device would need to consume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I thought of was a dynamo hub; but those seem to consume less than 5 watts, which would make no real difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I should add that I know I shouldn't brake continuously all the way down. My question is about whether there are additional things I can do or add to the bike to bleed off speed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastEditorUserId="4175" LastEditDate="2012-06-17T21:49:14.157" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T01:29:27.597" Title="Are there devices to moderate speed on mountain descents without braking?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2012-06-17T01:13:39.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some electric bicycles have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gizmodo.com/5022587/panasonic-makes-electric-bike-with-regenerative-braking&quot;&gt;regenerative braking&lt;/a&gt;. That's the only thing I can think of that comes close to answering your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, you could use something like a parachute to slow down, but this would create way too many problems (side winds, chute getting tangled in the back wheel, having to retract the chute when you don't need it anymore, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T01:13:39.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9882" CreationDate="2012-06-17T02:58:22.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that most bottom brackets don't use a cage.  Rather you get enough loose balls to fill the race, gob some grease into the race of the cup, press the balls into the grease, and install.  The cage should not be necessary to hold the balls in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case you may want to consider replacing the cups, bearings, and shaft with a cartridge -- much less to go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T02:58:22.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2012-06-17T03:10:33.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of a ready-made device to do what you want.  The only thing I can think of is to get the fan or magnetic resistance device from a training stand or rollers and somehow attach it in a way that it can be switched on and off.  Or even better would be to get a rig such as used in some exercise bikes where there is an aluminum flywheel with an electromagnet arranged next to it, such that resistance increases as the magnetic field increases.  (In theory a deep aluminum rim could be used instead of the flywheel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you'd have to salvage parts from somewhere to do any of these, and then do some machine shop work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise probably the best solution in your case is a bike with disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T03:10:33.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2012-06-17T03:27:27.367" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say what type of bike you are on, but there are some simple things that will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sitting up and getting your body as wide as possible will add a significant amount of drag. You can also wear a jacket and unzip it 7/8 so it catches wind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly lower your tire pressure. Don't go so low that you lose stability, but the rolling resistance between 105psi and 120psi will make a difference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find high rolling resistance tires. There are a number of sources for this data based on your bike type.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not directly related, but make sure you use appropriate brake pads and rims/rotors. Some do better with long decants than others. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also the obvious comments like learn to descend at speed or switch to a slower bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4328" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T03:27:27.367" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-17T04:04:58.150" Score="1" ViewCount="6459" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just looking for a a new set of tires for my &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/sQ8xa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;front suspension mountain bike&lt;/a&gt; (has a newer nicer fork on it now).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mostly ride in the Gatineau Park in Eastern Ontario.  The conditions are almost always dry.  There is quite a bit of loose gravel and a good amount of hardpack.  The terrine is pretty hilly and occasionally I find myself loosing traction on my rear tire while climbing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I am riding a pair of stock tires.  Both tires are pretty cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/TiresTubesWheels/OffRoadTires/PRD~5021-456/kenda-klaw-26-x-2.10-rear-wire-bead-tire.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rear tire&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/TiresTubesWheels/OffRoadTires/PRD~5021-455/kenda-klaw-26-x-2.10-front-wire-bead-tire.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Front tire&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am interesting in upgrading to get a bit more performance out of my bike.  Would also like to reduce the rolling resistance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What difference will more expensive tires make?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What width of tires will work best for the conditions described?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What price range is reasonable for a good set of XC tires?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other pieces of wisdom I should consider when choosing tires?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any examples of good tires for these conditions.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T21:49:46.423" Title="XC (mountain bike) tire for dry hardpack and loose conditions" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9892" CreationDate="2012-06-17T05:18:26.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Park tool's site breaks down how to adjust the front derailer pretty well.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the high limit screw first.  If that doesn't do it, you probably want to play around with the indexing adjustment (possibly needs some tension due to cable stretch over time).  It's not going to hurt if you lube the existing cables as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T05:18:26.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9810" CreationDate="2012-06-17T16:53:16.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;21202 is discussing the position within the lane(s) that a cyclist can ride. You cannot take 21202 on its own without considering the rest of the vehicle code. 21650.1 states that a bicycle shall be operated in the same direction as vehicles are required to be driven on the roadway. So, California Vehicle Code says you cannot ride against traffic on a one-way street if you are on the street, shoulder, or bike lane (if present).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the &lt;em&gt;City of Los Angeles&lt;/em&gt; has local ordinances that govern bicycle riding which allows you to ride on the sidewalk, but does not specify a direction. I suspect, but am not certain, that you can ride against traffic while on a sidewalk within the city limits of Los Angeles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clear as mud? A good place to start on California Vehicle Codes governing bicycles is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cabobike.org/articles/bicyclists-and-california-law/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CABO website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;21202:&#xA;(a) Any person operating a bicycle upon a roadway at a speed less than the normal &#xA;    speed of traffic moving in the same direction at that time shall ride as close as&#xA;    practicable to the right-hand curb or edge of the roadway except under any of the&#xA;    following situations:&#xA; 1. When overtaking and passing another bicycle or vehicle proceeding in the same direction.&#xA; 2. When preparing for a left turn at an intersection or into a private road or driveway.&#xA; 3. When reasonably necessary to avoid conditions (including, but not limited to, fixed&#xA;    or moving objects, vehicles, bicycles, pedestrians, animals, surface hazards, or &#xA;    substandard width lanes) that make it unsafe to continue along the right-hand curb &#xA;    or edge, subject to the provisions of Section 21656. For purposes of this section, &#xA;    a &quot;substandard width lane&quot; is a lane that is too narrow for a bicycle and a vehicle&#xA;       to travel safely side by side within the lane.&#xA; 4. When approaching a place where a right turn is authorized.&#xA;&#xA;(b) Any person operating a bicycle upon a roadway of a highway, which highway carries &#xA;   traffic in one direction only and has two or more marked traffic lanes, may ride as&#xA;   near the left-hand curb or edge of that roadway as practicable.&#xA;&#xA;21650.1:&#xA;A bicycle operated on a roadway, or the shoulder of a highway, shall be operated in &#xA;the same direction as vehicles are required to be driven upon the roadway. &#xA;&#xA;LAMC 56.15:&#xA; 1. No person shall ride, operate or use a bicycle, unicycle, skateboard, cart, wagon,&#xA;    wheelchair, rollerskates, or any other device moved exclusively by human power, on &#xA;    a sidewalk, bikeway or boardwalk in a willful or wanton disregard for the safety of &#xA;    persons or property.&#xA; 2. No person shall ride, operate or use a bicycle or unicycle on Ocean Front Walk&#xA;    between Marine Street and Via Marina within the City of Los Angeles, except that&#xA;    bicycle or unicycle riding shall be permitted along the bicycle path adjacent to &#xA;    Ocean Front Walk between Marine Street and Washington Boulevard.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastEditorUserId="1111" LastEditDate="2012-06-17T17:01:23.140" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T17:01:23.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2012-06-17T17:22:48.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest disadvantage occurs when you have the inevitable puncture...  The &quot;puncture proof&quot; tires are quite difficult to remount (and even remove) due to the kevlar bead.  Unless you have experience and very good strength in changing these tires, you most certainly will resort to levering the tire back onto the rim which typically results in tearing a new tube and having to begin the laborious process again.  So expect that unexpected flat to require a few extra sets of tubes due to the risks in remounting the tire.  The flip side is that a traditional tire will have punctures more often but be quite simple and often effortless to change the tube.  Just be forewarned that being miles from home or even civilization, it is often better to know that puncture will take 10 min. or less to repair instead of much longer, with more frustration, and often ruining that spare tube(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4329" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T17:22:48.527" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2012-06-17T17:41:30.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always get a fixed gear and use your legs to slow you down. Getting back up the mountain would present a completely different problem though.  Although with the right gear ratio it would probably be possible to go both up and down the mountain on a fixed gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T17:41:30.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-17T17:53:33.887" Score="4" ViewCount="11894" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Fuji road bike that I got a garage sale a while back. It's probably from the 70s or 80s. This summer, I've been trying to fix it up into good condition for some longer-than-usual rides (maybe 10+ miles, as opposed to just 4 or so). The old tires (27 x 1/8, hooked rim) were very worn, so I took the bike to a shop where they replaced them with new ones (32-630, 27 x 11/4 to fit schwinn s-6 or k-2 tubular rim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new tires say &quot;inflate to 90 psi&quot;, which is what I was planning on doing until one of the bike mechanics told me that I was running them way too high. He said the tires and tubes could handle that 90 psi pressure, but that my rims (which are the original aluminum ones I think) couldn't take 90 psi. Instead, he advised that I keep the tires at 60-65 psi. I tried his recommendation, but the tires definitely seemed to bulging out a lot where they contacted the road as I rode it around. I feel like the tires should be more inflated, but I don't want to damage the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I thought I'd get some advice about the matter. I'm 165 lbs, and my rides won't be too serious for now at least. Just riding around mainly on some wide walking/bike paths we have in the city. There may be a few mile-long stretches of sidewalk, however. Any advice is very much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4330" LastActivityDate="2019-04-21T21:56:44.173" Title="Correct inflation pressure for old road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2012-06-17T17:59:29.230" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two parts to your question, and two answers. The first part of your question is whether there are devices to moderate speed on descents. This is a common issue with tandem bikes (and occasionally with bikes designed for loaded touring). Many tandem-specific rear hubs have a threaded left side onto which can be mounted a &quot;drag brake.&quot; Typically a drum brake, they can be adjusted for a slight amount of drag; the rim brakes are retained as the primary brake for stopping. The advantage of the drum brake is that it's away from the rim (since excessive heating at the rim can have dire consequences for tube or tire) and they have a high heat capacity. Although no longer manufactured, the venerable and venerated Arai Tandem Drum brake was an example of this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second question is about how one would estimate the drag demand on a bicycle. This is a well-understood, though perhaps less well-known, problem, and is discussed in Section 2 of Wilson and Papadopoulos' &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books/about/Bicycling_Science.html?id=0JJo6DlF9iMC&quot;&gt;Bicycling Science&lt;/a&gt;. As you surmised, the potential energy component has to be offset by drag elsewhere: either by aero drag, braking, or rolling resistance. Terminal velocity is achieved at the point where the potential energy loss exactly balances the drag forces generated elsewhere. The coefficient of rolling resistance (Crr) happens to scale exactly like slope, so a change in slope of 1% is exactly like a change in the Crr of .01. Sadly, for this purpose, you won't much be able to rely on Crr for appreciable extra drag -- commonly, Crr ranges from about .004 to perhaps .01. Thus, although in a theoretical sense you must take rolling resistance into account, in a practical sense it dissipates too little energy to matter. Deflating tires to increase Crr on a twisty descent is not just insufficient, it's a bad idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aero drag is more easily manipulable but is also limited in efficacy. Drag area (typically denoted by the product of the frontal surface area, A, and the coefficient of aerodynamic drag, Cd) for a typical cyclist on a typical road bike will range from around .3 sq meters (roughly, 3 sq. ft) up to perhaps .5 sq meters or higher. Aerodynamic drag force varies with the square of airspeed (since the force varies with the square of airspeed, the power demanded to overcome that force varies with the cube of speed) so sitting up, unzipping a jacket, and widening your arms and legs can add some CdA; however, rarely more than ~ .2 sq meters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves braking, i.e., the conversion of potential energy via kinetic means into heat, and the place for a drag brake as described above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T17:59:29.230" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9925" CreationDate="2012-06-17T18:08:43.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to the specifics of what your rim will handle, but if it were me I would be inclined to run the tire between 70-75 pounds. That should improve the ride as well as leave a margin of safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4331" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T18:08:43.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9935" CreationDate="2012-06-17T18:25:35.733" Score="5" ViewCount="18737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using my bike for a few years now, and for the last month i am constantly getting this problem. After riding a day or two, it looks like my tube gets rotated a little inside the tire, and the valve becomes bent. If i continue riding, the tube gets torn. So i have to remove the tire, wiggle the tube a bit, and it's back to normal for a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tube seems to fit very well, and i don't notice any inconvenience when inserting it, so maybe my problem is not caused by bad tubes (or maybe it is? how can i make sure?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that might be relevant: i started riding moderately technical terrain in the last year (going down rocky roads, riding downstairs in the city). The problems started just a month ago; maybe the additional stress, combined with the warm weather (25-30°C now), is the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decathlon.co.uk/anti-puncture-tape-x2-id_8005966.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;anti-puncture tape&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what causes my problem? How can i fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New tube:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6QVwE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;state_1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some riding:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ARK3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;state_2a&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cp0iV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;state_2b&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a puncture:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKM8R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;state_3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T04:12:05.727" Title="Tube constantly getting punctured near the valve" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;schrader&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2012-06-17T19:45:53.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're asking for a DEVICE to control the speed, some tandems (two-seat bikes) have a dedicated brake system called &quot;Drag Brake&quot;. From the Sheldon Brown page on tandem brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;Friction Control Drag Brake&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The most common, and most satisfactory system is to set up the rim brakes, one to each conventional brake lever, and operate the hub&#xA;  brake by a friction-type derailer shifter. This may be a &quot;Barcon&quot;, a&#xA;  mountainbike-type thumb shifer, or a Sun Tour Command Shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A friction-type shifter allows the captain to set the hub brake to apply the desired amount of drag, even once he or she has let go of&#xA;  the hub brake control. the captain then uses both hands on the rim&#xA;  brakes to modulate the bike's speed, and to stop if it becomes&#xA;  necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the most straightforward strategy would be to use a rear wheel with rim + hub brake, one for the handlebar lever and other to the friction-shifter, there are some dedicated hubs to use as drag brakes (although they are most probably cumbersome and difficult to find). One model I found on Google is the Arai Drum Brake (out of production).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T19:45:53.747" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9929" CreationDate="2012-06-17T19:57:44.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tire slipping on the rim is generally a sign of an underinflated tire.  What sort of pressure are you running in the tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it could be that that old rim is coated with some substance that makes the tire slip.  Or it could be that the tire itself is old and hardened to where rubber does not grip the rim well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T19:57:44.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9925" CreationDate="2012-06-17T20:06:01.160" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't see your specific rims from here, but plenty of bikes back in the 70s and 80s had rims that width capable of handling 90-110 PSI.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I definitely wouldn't run a 1-1/8&quot; tire at 65 PSI.  I'd imagine that the rims, if designed for tires that narrow, should be able to handle 80 PSI or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T20:06:01.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9919" CreationDate="2012-06-17T20:45:59.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A good quality bike tire usually has a better size tolerance, a better rubber compound (might make more difference on traction than thread geometry itself), a better seating on the rim, and a better &quot;feel&quot; - the tyre carcass reacts better to bumps and curves, have a good cushioning effect and a good rolling resistance. I'd say there is a perceiveably relationship between price and quality, or at least the vast majority of low-price tires are not very good compared to medium- to high-priced ones;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the described conditions, I'd say 2.0 would be best, some might prefer 1.95, some up to 2.2. More than this is possible, but probably not necessary;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cannot tell about price range, depends on country;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires are funny in a way that the best tires (so as the best suspensions) do their work quietly. If you notice that you just GO, enjoying the trail and never ever having to think about the tire, traction, cornering control, pinch flats, etc., then the tire is good, it's doing its magic. Not-so-good tyres constantly remind you they're there, and you end up thinking: &quot;this f***ing tire sucks!&quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire models/brands are a very personal matter, but I had good tires - ones that did their magic - from (not in any order) Bontrager, Specialized, Maxxis, Ritchey, WTB, Panaracer, Tioga.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T20:45:59.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9883" CreationDate="2012-06-17T21:02:06.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a second shirt/jersey and shorts unless you have a reliable way of drying them (or you are comfortable wearing them even if they may still be a bit damp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the spare tubes and multitool(s) that others have mentioned, you may want to bring an extra chain link (I recommend an extra &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kmcchain.us/kmclandinga.asp?bsid=34&amp;amp;ssid=572&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KMC Missing Link&lt;/a&gt;), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/emergency-tire-boot-tb-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a tire boot&lt;/a&gt;, and perhaps a tiny first aid kit (a few gauze pads and sterile wipes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what hours you plan to be on the road, you may want to bring a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/08919&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;small front light&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004U5PV5A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rear blinker&lt;/a&gt; with you--something to increase your visibility if you end up riding a little later than planed. I did a ride with a friend that was planned to be 5-7 hours and it ended up being over 10 hours due to some mechanical trouble and an injury. We ended up riding well into dusk hours before we managed to get back to our car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as riding with ear buds, I think it is a judgement call, but often alright. Some environments it's probably safe, other environments it might not be. I frequently ride with one ear-bud in rural and suburban environments, but would not do it in downtown or dense urban areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your MP3 player has a volume limiter, set it to a &quot;safe&quot; limit when you're off the bike. If it's too loud to hear when riding the bike, then there's no point in wearing the earbuds unless you want to risk hearing damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T21:02:06.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9929" CreationDate="2012-06-17T21:08:07.297" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bet this is caused by a tire with rubber that got &quot;old&quot;. This tends to happen to MTB tires that are repeatedly ridden on mud, and I had some tires with this behaviour before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem seems to be insuficcient friction between the rubber and the rim around the bead, specially on those tires with a material resembling fabric on that region (like it seems to be your case, judging by the first photo), and are worse on the front tire since it applies traction only while braking - the rotational force is always applied in the same direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One measure to take, as already mentioned, is to put a higher pressure on the tire. It might allow you to get home without damaging a spare tube, but it's not the ideal solution since the slipping tendency is still there anyway, and sooner or later the tire ends up slipping, most probably when you don't expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other measure, that actually works very fine, is to &quot;reactivate&quot; the rubber on the groove where the rim and the tire &quot;seat&quot; against each other, considering that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In tires with old rubber, many times the said surface is &quot;shiny&quot;, or &quot;glassy&quot;, or &quot;vitrified&quot;, or &quot;mirror-like&quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In tires with fabric in the bead, the rubber &quot;disappears&quot; with use, and the slippy underlying fabric is left to make contact with the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both conditions contribute for the slipping due to reduced friction coefficient. So, to REACTIVATE the grippiness of the material, you should:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the tire from the bike and wash it with plenty of water until it is completely wet. Since the tire is off, you can wash the rim either;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brush the bead groove vigorously with a properly-sized brush, applying some abrasive soap mixed with water. Mechanics soap could be great but maybe too violent. I had excelent results with toothpaste (seriously!), and even with glycerin soap without abrasives. In any case, adding water enough to get a good foam is much better than just rubbing the dry product on the rubber. Rinse repeatedly after this with pure water, aiding with the brush;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optionally, at last you can apply those products to make car tires &quot;shiny&quot;. These tend to somehow protect the rubber from getting dry and glassy again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Important: assemble and inflate the tire while it is still wet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had tires almost unusable because of this slipping problem, and the problem disappeared like magic after performing these steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an additional fact, any modifications I tried to make in the rim (cleaning, sanding, filing, grooving) had no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-06-17T21:16:13.290" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T21:16:13.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9919" CreationDate="2012-06-17T21:32:15.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should talk to some local riders &amp;amp; bike shops as they'll probably know the terrain best and can probably recommend an appropriate tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T21:32:15.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9883" CreationDate="2012-06-17T22:39:32.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a little late (sorry, I was on a week-long bike trip), but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're missing sun lotion.  You definitely need it and should apply it first thing in the morning, since you will likely be reluctant to stop to apply it later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite what the others have said, I've never had a problem wearing the same cycling shorts 2-3 days in a row.  I do use chamois cream, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically ride with cotton T-shirts and find them comfortable.  Change shirts daily, and have a spare to put on if you get soaked/chilled in a rainstorm.  I have a synthetic (forget the material) soft knit jersey for cooler days, and sometimes wear sweat pants (with double leg straps) in the morning if it's too cool (since my muscles no longer tolerate cold well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; travel (any distance) without rain gear -- jacket and rain pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to carry some ready snacks -- heat-tolerant (assuming it will be hot) candy of some sort, or &quot;energy bars&quot;, or &quot;trail mix&quot; or such.  (Whatever it is should contain a decent amount of salt, and potassium is a bonus.)  If you begin to get fatigued, stop (in the shade, if possible), rest for 10-15 minutes, and have a snack plus extra water.  (And, of course, chocolate milk is good for temporal fractures.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend riding with ear buds, but I can understand how others might.  For me the voices in my head keep me plenty entertained.  At the very least, though, keep the volume low and don't use them in traffic or where other cyclists are likely to be overtaking you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only &quot;protection&quot; I've ever needed is against dogs, and that is fairly rare.  I used to have a bike with a pump peg, so I could quickly grab the pump and wave it at a threatening dog.  Yeah, the pump weighs all of 8 oz and couldn't hurt the dog, but to him it looks like a big black stick.  With my current bike I must use a pump strap, but have not needed to fend off a dog in several years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pocket knife is useful for the odd job on the road, though (if nothing else, cleaning your fingernails).  Beyond that a few basic tools, some small zip ties, and a bit of duct tape or hockey tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A flashing taillight is very lightweight, cheap, and can greatly improve your visibility in poor conditions.  A headlight is nice to have but not as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally don't like having stuff on my back.  A handlebar bag is OK, and easily accessible, but distributes the weight poorly and bounces around.  A saddlebag (strapped to your seat rails) is a slightly better choice, though usually of limited capacity.  I've never used them, but there are also bags that strap inside the frame, between the top bar and the down bar, and they should be stable and capable of carrying most of what you need.  (They tend to block the use of water bottle cages, though.)  But if you plan to do much of this a rack and panniers is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the terrain is reasonably flat and the weather cooperates then 142 miles in two days should be easily obtained (ie, I could manage it, and I'm a 63-year-old polio survivor).  Hills, rain, or a headwind could make it unpleasant, but it should still be doable for a healthy younger person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T22:39:32.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9947" CreationDate="2012-06-18T03:02:08.050" Score="20" ViewCount="4440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious how to estimate drag for a bicycle. This has two different framings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find the amount of power required to ride at a certain speed. That is, when one is traveling at a constant speed, the power added to the system (with my effort and/or coasting on a descent) equals the power subtracted by aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance, ascending, deflecting objects thrown by spectators, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find the amount of pushing force required to maintain a given speed (again, the pushing forward equals the pushing backward at constant speed). The most obvious example is aerodynamic drag, which one can feel “pushing” back when one is riding at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Online calculators and formulas exist, but they assume coefficients of rolling resistance or aerodynamic drag, or assume that I can provide these coefficients. How do they make these assumptions, and/or how can I make those estimates myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Credit goes to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/2195/r-chung&quot;&gt;R. Chung&lt;/a&gt; for urging me to ask, in the commentary of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9914/are-there-devices-to-moderate-speed-on-mountain-descents-without-braking&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T17:47:39.460" Title="How can one estimate drag for a bicycle?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9938" CreationDate="2012-06-18T04:39:13.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jan Heine &amp;amp; crew at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikequarterly.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Quarterly&lt;/a&gt; recently reported the results of their wind tunnel research. &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/05/02/aerodynamics-of-real-world-bicycles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A summary is available online&lt;/a&gt;, but the full results are only available in the printed journal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T04:39:13.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-18T10:21:16.920" Score="0" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dakota 20 is pretty awesome, but I can't figure out how to get the remaining route distance to show up on the trip dashboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the official Manual from Garmin doesn't mention anything about this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1628" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T05:38:58.313" Title="Dakota 20 - How do you show remaining route distance on dashboard?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9938" CreationDate="2012-06-18T11:07:54.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you could find several long hills of different but relatively constant (and not too steep) slope, then determine the slope and your terminal velocity on each hill (assuming that velocity is below some safe speed), you should be able to do the math to determine aerodynamic drag (working on the reasonably valid assumption that rolling resistance is negligible a higher speeds).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, with very careful observation, you could determine how rapidly you decelerate on a level road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T11:07:54.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9943" CreationDate="2012-06-18T12:19:30.313" Score="4" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike that I use for triathlons as well as club rides in the evenings and on weekends. I don't have the bike in front of me, but the range of the cassette is on the low side. I'm more likely to run out of gears going uphill than down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going on a bike trip in the Alps next month and it'd probably be to my advantage to have a bit more breathing room for climbing if I'm going to be doing it an entire week. That's why I'm considering getting another cassette with a wider range. Does it make more sense to have a separate cassette that I swap onto my current wheel when needed or should I go ahead and get another wheel to make the swap easier. I don't necessarily want to take apart wheel each time I want to swap. How do people usually handle this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="622" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T12:41:53.440" Title="Should I have a spare cassette or a spare wheel?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9942" CreationDate="2012-06-18T12:41:53.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a personal choice. If you're going to run the same tires, then just go with a spare cassette. It's pretty easy to swap them out, so I don't see that as a big deal. However, If you're going to have different tires and a different cassette, then I'd probably opt for the different wheelset. If you need a more durable wheelset for touring, you might also consider a separate wheelset.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to have a road and off-road set of tires for my cross bike. Since it's a lot more work to switch the tires each time I want to ride different types of terrain (and want a slightly larger range on the off road set), I prefer to have a separate wheelset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only takes a minute or two to swap a cassette, and also gives you time to get the other one good and clean while it's off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T12:41:53.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9919" CreationDate="2012-06-18T12:45:21.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knobbier tires help, but more so focus on trying to sit as much as possible while climbing. This will really help keep extra weight on the back tire and prevent it from loosing traction.  You'll want to make sure you have your seat high enough to facilitate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T12:45:21.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2012-06-18T15:46:05.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the question has been edited, and now it focuses on the squeaking problem, I post my grain of salt on Pad Alignment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes braking noise is caused by a vibration that occurs this way: When the pad initially touches the rim, it moves a little, due to rim's drag. But this movement causes a sudden loos in friction, releasing a little pressure thus allowing the pad to go back to its original position. This cycle repeats really fast, causing noise and poor braking performance. Here comes to play the angle mentioned as &quot;toe in&quot;, as it can overcome the noise problem and even use component flex as an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pad Alignment is critical for good braking performance. Start by checking general alignment: rim pads usually have a curved shape when seen from the sides of the bike. This curve must correspond with rim's curvature as closely as possible. The pad must contact the rim's braking surface in the center (between inner and outer diameter) and should &quot;land&quot; into the rim at an almost straight angle. This means pad wear should be even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to achieve the correct angle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosen the pad retaining nut so it can be angled by hand. Press the arm that holds the pad, press it against the rim (like applying the brake by hand). while pressing, tighten the nut. Repeat on the other pad. This can be tricky, but once you get the hang of it, it becomes a breeze...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you press the arm against the rim, the pad self aligns with the rim. If you apply enough pressure, that keeps the pad from rotating out of position while you tighten the bolt. This works good enough for me, but sometimes you need a little angle that makes the rearward end of the pad to touch the rim first, so the drag on the pad, and flex on the components make the rest of the pad to land down on the rim (Imagine a modern plane landing, where it touches the ground rear wheels first and then the nose touches down). To do this, adhere a little bit of cardboard (using adhesive tape) to the rim's braking surface. When you do the &quot;press the arm&quot; step, do it so the pad touches the cardboard on one of its ends, which end? the one that points &lt;em&gt;against&lt;/em&gt; tire rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this alignment the &quot;tail&quot; of the pad touches the rim first, and the drag on the rim causes natural flex on pad-brake arm assembly causes it to &quot;lower the nose of the pad down to the rim&quot;. This rather causes an increase in braking power, some style of &lt;em&gt;self assisted brake&lt;/em&gt; (This concept is also used in automotive drum brake systems).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the correct toe in angle, your brakes become very efficient and less demanding on your hands, but depending on your specific component combination can be too much, causing easy wheel lock up, which is inefficient and dangerous, so be sure to perform several tests increasing speed a little each time. If you find that your wheels lock up to easily, reduce toe in angle on the pads (by using thinner cardboard on the alignment step).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct alignment can reduce or eliminate the noise problem, but other factors may be involved. In my experience the rims can get dirty from a gunk that sticks to the rim when pads heat up due to friction, causing both noise and braking degradation. That's why my brake tune up procedures include rim cleanup. I use the green kitchen cleaning pads traded by the brand name &quot;Scotch Brite&quot; (Sorry for the ad, I don't know the generic name of this product). Dish washing paste can be used to better results but just water while gently scrubbing rim's braking surface is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/em&gt;: This alignment procedure focuses on V-Brake systems that use semi-spheric spacers that allow multi directional angle changes on the pad, and the stem of the pad is threaded, other systems may use this kind of pad as well, but there are other designs where alignment has to be done completely by hand and eye and other systems do not allow pad angle adjustment at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2012-06-18T20:30:03.737" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T20:30:03.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9938" CreationDate="2012-06-18T18:13:27.570" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is simple but a full answer is complex. The simplest answer is to point to Part 2 (especially chapter 4) of &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books/about/Bicycling_Science.html?id=0JJo6DlF9iMC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wilson and Papadopoulos (2004)&lt;/a&gt;, or the recent review by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fredericgrappe.com/CV/bibliographie/D31.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Debraux et al. (2011)&lt;/a&gt;, or the paper by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recumbents.com/wisil/MartinDocs/Validation%20of%20a%20mathematical%20model%20for%20road%20cycling.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Martin et al. (1998)&lt;/a&gt;. However, even these papers do not cover approaches that take better advantage of the data available from modern bicycle computers and GPS units. Some background on the power-drag equation will help you understand why there are so many different ways (with accordingly different levels of accuracy, precision, difficulty, and cost) of estimating drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equation to convert speed to power is well-understood. Total power demanded has four parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Total power = power needed to overcome rolling resistance + &#xA;              power needed to overcome aerodynamic resistance + &#xA;              power needed to overcome changes in speed (kinetic energy) + &#xA;              power needed to overcome changes in elevation (potential energy)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these, the simplest piece is the power needed to overcome changes in elevation. The power needed to account for the change in potential energy, and to overcome changes in speed are straightforward:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;watts(PE) = slope * speed in meters/sec * total mass * 9.8 m/sec^2&#xA;watts(KE) = total mass * speed in meters/sec * acceleration&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a small part of the KE component due to moment of inertia in the wheels but for bicycles that tends to be small and we often ignore it. However, the equations needed to describe the rolling resistance and aerodynamic resistance are a bit more complicated. The article by Martin et al., cited above, gives more detail but if we can ignore wind then the aerodynamic component simplifies to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;watts(aero) = 0.5 * rho * CdA * (speed in m/s)^3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where rho is the air density in kg/m^3 and CdA is the drag area (&amp;quot;A&amp;quot; is the frontal area and &amp;quot;Cd&amp;quot; is the coefficient of drag; CdA is their product and can be thought of as the &amp;quot;equivalent&amp;quot; area of a cube held perpendicular to the direction of the wind with a face of area A). If there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; non-zero wind, the aerodynamic component is approximately&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;watts(aero) = 0.5 * rho * CdA * (groundspeed in m/s) * (airspeed in m/s)^2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there is no wind, airspeed and groundspeed are the same so the equation simplifies to the one above. A headwind increases airspeed above groundspeed while a tailwind decreases airspeed below groundspeed. I say &amp;quot;approximately&amp;quot; because these are approximations when the wind comes from directly in front or behind (or is zero); when the wind is off-axis, it affects CdA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the power needed to overcome rolling resistance (which includes tires, tubes, and bearing friction) is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;watts(RR) = Crr * total mass * 9.8 m/sec^2 * speed in m/s&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crr is the coefficient of rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you go to an online calculator like the one at &lt;a href=&quot;http://analyticcycling.com/ForcesPower_Page.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Analyticcycling.com&lt;/a&gt; you'll see that you must provide values for rho, Crr, Cd, and A; then, given a particular value of speed and slope, it will calculate power. It's easy to find online calculators for the air density, rho, but much harder to find estimates of Crr and CdA (or separately, Cd and A).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest (but most expensive) way to estimate CdA is in a wind tunnel. There, an object is mounted on a scale (basically, a very precise and accurate bathroom scale), wind at a known speed is applied, the air density is measured, and the total force on the object is measured by the scale. Watts are force (in Newtons) * speed (in meters/sec) so force (in Newtons) = watts/air speed = 0.5 * rho * CdA * (airspeed^2). The tunnel operator knows rho, knows airspeed, and the expensive bathroom scale measures the force so you can calculate CdA. Wind tunnel estimates of CdA are considered the gold standard: when performed in a good tunnel with experienced operators, the measurements are precise and repeatable. In practice, if you want to know the Cd separately, you'd measure the frontal area A with a digital camera and compare it to a digital photograph of an object (like a flat square) of known area. As an historical aside, nearly 100 years ago Dubois and Dubois measured frontal area by taking photographs of a person and a reference object, cutting out the photos along the outlines of the object, and then weighing the cut-outs on sensitive scales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the resistance in tires, tubes, or bearings are not affected by air speed, so one cannot estimate Crr from wind tunnel data. Tire manufacturers have measured rolling resistance of their tires on large rotating drums but they cannot measure aerodynamic drag. In order to measure both Crr and CdA, you need to find a method that measures both and allows you to differentiate between the two. These methods are indirect field estimation methods and they vary a great deal in their accuracy and precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until the last 20 years or so, the most common indirect field method was to coast down a hill of known slope and to measure either maximum speed (also known as terminal velocity) or else the speed when passing a fixed point on the hill. Terminal velocity doesn't let you differentiate between Crr and CdA; however, if one measured speed at a given point and were able to control the &amp;quot;entry&amp;quot; speed at the top of the hill, you could then test at different entry speeds and get enough equations to solve for the two unknowns, Crr and CdA. As you might expect, this method was tedious and liable to poor precision. Nonetheless, many ingenious alternatives were explored, including coasting down wind-free corridors or inside large airplane hangars, and measuring speed to relatively high precision using &amp;quot;electric eyes&amp;quot; or timing strips. Some of these methods are described in the review by Debraux et al., cited above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the advent of on-bike power meters, new opportunities emerged to measure aerodynamic and rolling drag. In short, if you could find a flat wind-sheltered road, you would ride at a constant speed or power on the road; then, repeat at a different speed or power. The requirement of &amp;quot;flat and wind-sheltered at constant speed&amp;quot; meant that you could ignore the PE and KE components of power and only had to deal with the rolling resistance and aerodynamic components so the overall power equation simplifies to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Watts = Crr * kg * g * v + 0.5 * rho * CdA * v^3; or &#xA;Watts/v = Crr * kg * g + 0.5 * rho * CdA * v^2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where g is the acceleration due to gravity, 9.8 m/sec^2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter formula can be easily estimated by linear reqression where the slope of the equation is related to CdA and the intercept is related to Crr. This is what Martin et al. did; they used an airplane runway, averaged the runs in both directions, and measured barometric pressure, temperature, and humidity to calculate rho, and measured and corrected for wind speed and direction. They found that the CdA estimated by this method agreed to within 1% of the CdA measured in wind tunnels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this method requires that the road be flat and that speed (or power) be constant over the length of the test run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://anonymous.coward.free.fr/wattage/cda/indirect-cda.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;new method&lt;/a&gt; for estimating CdA and Crr has been developed that exploits the recording capability of many modern bike computers and bicycle power meters. If one has moment-by-moment recording of speed (and optionally, power) then you can directly measure changes in speed so the KE component of power can be estimated. In addition, if you ride around in a loop, the road need not be flat since you know that upon returning to the start point of the loop the net elevation change will be zero so the net PE component will be zero. This method can be and has been applied to coasting down hills of known net elevation change (that is, you don't need to have constant slope, and if coasting you know the power is zero). Examples of this approach can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingpowermodels.com/CdAEstimation.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://bugs.goldencheetah.org/projects/goldencheetah/wiki/Aerolab&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and, when performed carefully have been shown to agree with wind tunnel estimates of CdA to well within 1%. A short video presentation on the method can be found starting at about the 28:00 mark &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8tJnFE_BFg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. A short video of the method in use on a velodrome can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVT3Wk_2j5g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2021-02-08T17:47:39.460" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T17:47:39.460" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-19T01:57:21.080" Score="10" ViewCount="4429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just recently moved to a city (Seattle) where owning a car seems less appropriate than it has to me in the past.  Before, I lived in a far more suburban environment where biking was more-or-less just meant for trails and your &quot;typical&quot; bicycle was a $150-$200 one at the nearest Walmart or Target.  I'm apprehensive about dropping $500 (or &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt;) on a bicycle currently, and I am really just looking for the best way to get started.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I really just need to drop $500+ on a new bicycle and deal with the elevated costs?  And if so, how do I even know where to begin on what type of bicycle to pick out, since it would more than likely be my primary mode of transportation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4337" LastEditorUserId="11270" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T08:22:08.360" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T08:22:08.360" Title="How can I get started riding without spending a fortune (too much)?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9948" CreationDate="2012-06-19T02:29:22.543" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recycledcycles.com/&quot;&gt;Recycled Cycles&lt;/a&gt; (in the University District area) sells used bicycles, I would also checkout &lt;a href=&quot;http://seattle.craigslist.org/&quot;&gt;seattle.craigslist.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend going into a bike shop that just sells bicycles (Gregg's near Green Lake is great - but many others all around Seattle) and tell them what sort of riding you are planning (commuting, shopping and using the bicycle as transportation) and they will have some things to look at, test ride and compare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not knowing what style of bike you are comfortable on it is hard to recommend a road bike verses a hybrid or comfort bike (I wouldn't look at mountain bikes for getting around Seattle, but there are lots of trails nearby if that interests you). Also, you want to get a bicycle that fits, otherwise you are uncomfortable and end up not riding the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a hybrid bike would be where I would start to look. They offer a little wider tire to allow you to ride gravel trails and work well on roads too. Your position on the bike is a bit more upright allowing better view and more comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T02:29:22.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2012-06-19T02:52:23.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The squeaking from brake pads is from dirt and rust on side of rim.  Pads should lie flat against the rim.(No incline),for maximum surface contact.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4339" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T02:52:23.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9948" CreationDate="2012-06-19T02:53:31.697" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, buy a used bike somewhere, either at a shop that has a bunch, or off or Craig's List or another &quot;want ad&quot; source.  And, of course, there are yard sales.  If you shop carefully you can probably pick up a serviceable bike for $50-100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But first study bikes a little to learn to recognize quality.  Look at the cheap bikes at Walmart and some moderately priced ones at a reputable bike shop.  In particular note the differences you'll see around the rear axle and around the crank.  The cheapest bikes will have a 1-piece solid crank, whereas good bikes have a 3-piece crank.  On cheaper bikes the &quot;dropouts&quot; that the rear axle fits into are made of stamped sheet metal, whereas on better quality bikes the dropouts are die-cast or forged.  Also observe the joining of the tubing of the frame -- better quality bikes will have smoother welds, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also learn how to check out the condition of a used bike.  A little rust is not a problem, but if you pick up one end of the bike and spin the wheel it should spin freely, and the wheel should not wobble noticeably as it spins.  A brief test ride should find the brakes working well and the shifters at least working (they will likely need a &quot;tune up&quot;).  Standing over the bike squeeze the front brake and the move the bike forwards and backwards -- the head bearing should not have any noticeable play.  Grab the crank and shake -- again there should be no noticeable play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T17:42:21.887" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T17:42:21.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9948" CreationDate="2012-06-19T03:27:30.277" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lack experience with entry-level (walmart, etc.) bikes, so take my answer with this in consideration. I was shopping this month for a good commuter bike to replace my old road bike (more about it below). I don't own a car, so I'll use it 15 miles per day, almost every workday between april and october, as well as for carrying all groceries and various errands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the opinions I got from bike shops I visited, the frame material is more a &quot;performance&quot; thing than anything - aluminium is lighter than steel/chromoly, but they'll all last forever. Steel is smoother on flat road, alu is enjoyable on hills. It's the quality of the components/groupset (derailleurs, etc.) that is driving factor in their recommendations: better components will last longer before needing adjustments (sooner) and repairs (later). How true is that, is hard to say for me, but I do think your budget should match the amount of milage you plan to do per year. My understanding is that walmart bikes are suited for a few hundred miles a year at most. You might do that well under 2 months if your bike is your main mode of transportation!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look &lt;a href=&quot;http://mc2.vicnet.net.au/home/vichpv/web/building/shimanoparts/shimanoparts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for Shimano components comparisons in mtb/hybrids, where we see that SIS/Altus/Acera are considered recreational/sunday rides, while Alivio and Deore is where the better quality starts. From what I've heard, I wouldn't go below Alivio-equivalent, if you can afford it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I suggest you get a little familiar with popular groupsets, frame types (steel, aluminium, etc.) and overall &lt;a href=&quot;http://gobiking.ca/which-bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike type&lt;/a&gt; (hybrid vs performance hybrid vs road) to get an idea of what you would want, and especially, make sure to take note of the models and bike sizes you try in bike shops! Then take a look at last-year sales for similar models (best period for this is april-may, unfortunately) or classifieds for the models that you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, for a commuter I'd steer clear of any type of suspension, disc brakes, wheels wider than 32C, grandpa sitting positions and large comfy seats, and look for compatibility with racks and fenders. Allow money for a helmet, lock, rear light, and possibly racks and bags (though you can use your backpack initially).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget the size of the bike is really important for long term comfort, so I'd suggest you get advice about this in a bike shop before even considering buying anything used/cleared!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some knowledge, you will be able to assess walmart bargains better, and with some luck, you can land a used 300-500$ deal for a 600-700$ lightly-used bike you've just seen at the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, my personal anecdote: 10 years ago I felt I'd enjoy a more &quot;serious&quot; bicycle, and not just a teenager MTB. I bought a last-year model road bike (aluminium with Sora groupset which is entry level for road bikes) from a bike shop for around $700, which was a big deal for me back then. I used it for commuting, fun rides and occasional touring, and ended up doing at least 3K a year. Probably the best 700$ spent in my last decade, and looking back, a quite frugal, healthy and ecological investment compared to a purely utility wal-mart bike that by would likely have stayed inside after I would have gotten a car. So the question is: do you want to bike as a lifestyle now, or just as a means to get to work/school until you get a promotion? Your answer should help define your budget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do mention you don't have regular paychecks, so I would recommend to a) go to bike shops to get a sense of what you ideally look for, b) check clearances and classifieds, including walmart bargains c) if you don't find a great deal, make an informed decision on how much you're willing to spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4338" LastEditorUserId="3942" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T14:52:23.287" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T14:52:23.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9919" CreationDate="2012-06-19T11:05:56.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those tyres look a little aggressive for dry, hard pack XC riding to me. I ride XC in Australia and use Maxxis Crossmark, they are a great tyre for this type of terrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for loosing grip when climbimg, try to stay seated but slide forward onto the nose of the saddle to shift your weight slightly to the front. This will help keep weight on the back tyre but also stop the front wheel from poping up. Also ensure that your leg is at almost full stretch on the down stroke of your peddle with just a slight bend in the knee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4342" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T11:05:56.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-19T15:29:02.847" Score="5" ViewCount="3672" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading various questions and answers around here, I've heard a lot of people say you can tell the quality of the bicycle by looking at the welds.  How do I know what a good weld looks like as opposed to a bad weld.  In &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9952/163&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; its stated that good bikes have smoother welds.  However, when looking at my bike, the welds don't really appear to be smooth at all, even though I know it is a high quality bike.  What should I look for when looking at the welds of a bike? Pictures would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T14:09:33.200" Title="What does a good weld look like" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;reference&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9966" CreationDate="2012-06-19T15:51:52.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/Master-MIG-welding-GMAW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; about welding to be somewhat helpful. There's an image near the bottom comparing a good weld to a bad weld on aluminum.  The good weld is actually the one that isn't smooth.  The type of weld used differs on the type of material used (steel vs aluminum).  A lot of the information on this site talks about coloring, so you can tell if they went too slow and burned the material, but this would often be covered up by the paint on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T15:51:52.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9972" CreationDate="2012-06-19T19:52:04.780" Score="2" ViewCount="2013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a vegan and I bike around 10 miles to and fro from office everyday. After biking to office, I find myself in a low energy state which persists all through the day. I tried having couple of bananas right after I reach office and although it does improve a bit, I still feel low in energy. Also I am losing weight steadily. What sort of foods do you eat before/after biking to ensure that you are in high energy state all through the day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4346" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T13:52:32.273" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T03:54:24.977" Title="What foods do you consume after biking to retain energy?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9969" CreationDate="2012-06-19T20:06:17.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, some other stuff too.  Mostly you should be eating carbs, and fruits, grains, and nuts are good for those.  If it's warm &amp;amp; you're sweating a fair amount you need to get extra sodium and potassium.  Some protein is advised, along with a moderate amount of fat, but nuts and beans can supply these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In part your &quot;low energy state&quot; will correct itself after you acclimate to the routine.  You do, however, need to make an effort to replenish the calories consumed within 2-3 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I forgot to mention calcium, which may be the most difficult nutrient to get for a vegan, but is needed for muscle energy.  Green, leafy veggies are probably your best choice, but inconvenient to eat as &quot;snacks&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-06-19T21:15:47.150" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T21:15:47.150" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9969" CreationDate="2012-06-19T20:21:24.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I do longer morning rides or races, I make sure to eat oatmeal that morning, it's got lots of carbs and provides me with enough energy (non-sugar energy) to make it to our destination where i can have an energy bar/muffin/whatever to refuel for the ride home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely look at your nutrition in the evenings too. Carbs that you eat will carry over to the next day as energy for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+1 for Daniel's answers as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T20:21:24.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9969" CreationDate="2012-06-19T21:11:33.030" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I don't feel able to talk about food QUALITY, since even &quot;vegan&quot; can mean a lot of things these days, and this understanding varies from person to person. Just to illustrate, I'm not sure to suggest cheese, honey, milk and eggs, although I do find these to be excellent heavy-fuels for cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what I do feel sure to advise, being an everyday commuter that likes to eat and sometimes get burnt-out or otherwise energy-deprived due to hunger, is about AMOUNT and TIMING.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cannot ride to work without having an at least a decent breakfast, otherwise the weakness manifests itself as soon as I start to pedal. Usually, this is enough to allow a morning of productive work until lunch time;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At lunch, I am always hungry eat a very substantial amount of food.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I go home for lunch (50% of the times), sometimes I feel the power to pedal is not so good due to hunger. This only improves some 20 minutes after I start the meal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the afternoon, about two to three hours after lunch, I start to get hungry. Then I take a snack, otherwise when it's time to go home (by bike) I am already starving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I get home ALWAYS starving, this is the time of day my internal clock demands food, and usually I take some sweet stuff (bread with jam, milk, and other breakfast-related foods). I'ts a requirement, for myself, that I eat until I get totally satisfied, otherwise I cannot be in a good mood (my family knows it best than I do).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though, and I have to agree, this seems like a nutritional abuse, my health is fine, and my weight is steady. That was not so in the beginning of this lifestyle (bike commuting every day), but one tends to get used to lifestyle changes eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I would not suggest you to do the same, but I'd suggest the following &quot;general principles&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you commute by bike, you simply HAVE to eat A LOT. There is no magic here: your increased energy consumption demands this energy to come from somewhere;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most regular bikers have a diet that could turn sedentary people ill, due to the amount of calories and what I call &quot;heavy-fuels&quot;. Vegan heavy-fuels would be coconut, nuts in general, avocado, lots of bananas, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the demands are not just caloric/energetic, but also constitutional (you need to rebuild cellular methabolism overloaded by effort, high turnover, exposure to pollution, exposure to climatic factors). So the QUALITY of the food is also important, but since you'r vegan, that should be for you to judge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(EDIT!) Sometimes what you eat just after commuting matters less for your well-being than what you've eaten in the hours, or even days, before the ride. If one is &quot;well fed&quot;, it's possible to endure vigorous exercise and be able to bear some hours of fasting until the next meal, specially if you do everything (ride, eat, work) more or less at the same time of day, everyday.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, you said you're losing weight. If you were overweight, that might be the expected thing to happen. Now if you were normal weight, and are at the same time losing weight and feeling burnt-out, that is a very serious warning sign. If self-management of food intake alone doesn't solve it, perhaps you should see a professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-06-19T23:15:07.297" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T23:15:07.297" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2012-06-19T21:25:00.120" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many possible causes of creaking. But Deemar has the most likely reason in this case - the cranks are loose on the axle. Think about how a creak is produced. It's one item sliding over another. But instead of sliding it's repeatedly sticking then jumping. The amount of movement might only be a fraction of a millimetre. The OP would have noticed if the cranks were really loose. But in this case the looseness may be at the microscopic scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily test this without having to run alongside the bike. Get on the bike with the brakes on and your shoulder against a wall. Rotate the pedals so the cranks are horizontal and bounce up and down with your weight equally on both pedals. This twists the cranks and axle as far as possible in one direction. Then rotate the pedals to a position 180 degrees from that (the other foot forward) and do the same. This twists the assembly as far as possible the other way. Repeat the procedure listening all the while for creaks. Testing in this way avoids many other sources of noise such as wheels, chain, seat, etc. Take care. If something breaks or your foot slips off the pedal you'll hurt yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When new the cranks have a square tapered hole which fits exactly onto the tapered square on the axle. As Deemar says, if it has been wobbling for a while the hole will be damaged and you may never get a satisfactory fit. On my bike I fixed it (at least for now) by carefully reshaping the inside of the square holes with a file and cleaning the square shaft on the axle. Then I assembled it with grease. To get the parts to bed in together I applied the following procedure repeatedly. Bash the crank a few times with a soft hammer. Bounce up and down on the pedals as above. Retighten the bolt. Eventually the soft aluminium crank took up the shape of the hard axle and the creaking was completely eliminated. You will probably need to do this for both cranks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that the amount of movement between the crank and axle may be so small it's imperceptible. You may not see it moving. But you will be hear the result when you do the pedal bouncing test. On my bike the noise was really loud and infuriating and now it's completely silent. I will re-tighten the bolt periodically. If it loosens again I may have to replace the cranks and bottom bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4348" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T21:25:00.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9807" CreationDate="2012-06-19T22:02:01.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many possible causes. But it's likely the cranks are slightly loose on their axle. Vigorous pedalling and warming up during the ride make the situation worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have posted a detailed answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/124/creaking-from-cranks-spindle-how-to-fix&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Please scroll down to see the answers from me and Deemar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4348" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T22:07:16.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9969" CreationDate="2012-06-19T22:44:29.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The exact food shouldn't matter much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does matter is the composition. Typically, recovery food should be 4:1 carbs to protein. Depending on amount of exercise, 150 - 300 calories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes that you've done proper nutrition during the exercise. During exercise you will want mostly carb calories. If under 90 minutes (which I assume yours is per the 10 mile comment) you don't need to load during. 90 minutes or more and you should do 100 - 150 every 40 minutes (a gel or something equivalent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that you are still out of energy and/or still losing weight you don't want to lose, it wouldn't hurt to see a nutritionist. You can play with fat-carb-protein ratios and amounts, but having a nutritionist will likely get you to the solution quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: My goto when I'm feeling depleted due to exercise is avocado. It's mostly fat, but it's what works for me. Worth a try, it's yummy, and qualifies for a vegan diet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T22:44:29.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9969" CreationDate="2012-06-19T23:34:19.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've experienced some of the issues you've described when I started increasing my activity level. Your low energy level concerns me a bit as I found this was an indicator that I was getting insufficient nutrition (in my case, mostly calories) to sustain my activity level. I would be less concerned about the weight loss as long as you are not losing muscle mass and your body-fat percentage stays at a reasonable number. It will likely stabilize after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not vegan, some of the foods I've added specifically because of cycling may work for you. One thing I will point out is that everyone's reaction to physical exertion is different. Some of the &quot;expert&quot; advice I've read and tried to followed made me feel worse or even ill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, here's what I did when starting to commute by bicycle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I always eat before starting my morning commute or any workout. Generally, I eat a bowl of cereal with almond or soy milk. If I am particularly hungry, I will also include some protein-based foods such as egg-beaters. Unfortunately, I don't know of a vegan friendly alternative. I've also used hummus and a starch (bread, cracker, etc) when cereal/eggs weren't available. The point is to avoid starting on a completely empty stomach or with your body depleted of glycogen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the effort level, you may find that a small amount of food during the ride may help. When I first started, a small energy bar, a handful of nuts, or hummus/pita bread would help. Now, I don't need to eat during the ride. For longer rides, I've found that post-workout lethargy is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; an indication of insufficient nutrition during the workout for me. Your experience will likely vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immediately after a hard workout (within a couple minutes of stopping), I drink 8-20 oz of soy milk (usually with some chocolate syrup, ovaltine or flavored protein powder) depending on the level of effort and duration. After a lighter workout (such as commuting), I will often subsitute a mixture of fruit and yogurt (not vegan friendly, I know) in place of the soy milk. What I've found is that a moderate amount of protein calories post workout (as someone else mentioned, in the range of a 4:1 ratio of carb calories to protein calories) seems to have improved my energy level overall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of my nutrition throughout the day is more-or-less what I used to eat, though I increased my overall caloric intake around 25-40% just due to commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T23:34:19.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2012-06-19T23:35:41.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could build or buy a drogue chute. It need not weigh very much, being less than a square metre of ripstop nylon and a couple of metres of thin cord. It may even be legal to do so, depending on how your country writes the &quot;no sail powered vehicle&quot; laws (or whether such a law exists). I'd be inclined to make it tear away by attaching it to my body with velcro. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done the opposite, and used a small sunshade/tent door as a sail when I had a strong tail wind and I was going uphill on my touring bike. It worked disturbingly well, in that I had to move the main attachment from my backpack waist belt to the seatpost as it was threatening to catapult me over the handlebars (the bike was quite heavy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a brake I suggest a cross-style drag chute as they're easy to make and more stable than a round or rectangular chute (rectangles are more controllable but unless you're used to parasailing or kite surfing the learning curve is steep).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem I can see is that mountains often have wind, and specifically the wind can vary dramatically over short distances. For example, if you come out round a ridge you may move from still air behind the ridge to compressed wind on the exposed face, and the change in drag from a chute will be dramatic. In that case you have to decide whether you want to drop the chute onto the windscreen of the car that's following you, or slow suddenly in front of it. Either could be embarrassing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-06-19T23:35:41.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10000" CreationDate="2012-06-20T00:40:19.327" Score="7" ViewCount="48931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently gotten back into mountain biking.  I took my 5 year old Iron Horse full suspension out to the mountain with some friends that had recently purchased new bikes.  I haven't ridden for a few years so i had to take my bike in for a major tune up before the trip.  My bike was kind of a cheapo ($700) and really could just barely handle the terrain we were riding.  I mean just barely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We stopped at an enormous bike shop on the way back just for fun, and I was pretty envious of what I saw there.  The technology has come pretty far in 5 years, and if you are willing to put $2000 to $3000 on a bike, you can get a serious machine.  I'm tempted to simply purchase one of these premade bikes, but I hated how I always had to take my old bike in for tune ups because I didn't know how anything on it worked.  This time I want to know the ins and outs of my bike so I can make all the repairs myself.  I've already started a tool kit collection and recently got an awesome repair stand by ParkTool.  I've turned my old MTB into a comfy commuter bike and have had some fun tuning it up myself.  Now its time for my fun bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know what I want is basically an all Mountain bike.  Some thing I can tear down rough trails with, but still is useful enough for those long climbs to get to the top those trails.  Here is what I want out of my new bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Light&lt;/strong&gt;: As light as I can go with a reasonable budget.  I think carbon frames are most likely out.  I'd like to spend less than $2500 for the whole bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Durable&lt;/strong&gt;:  I'm a big guy. 220lbs when I'm fit, but 250lbs now. 5'10&quot; tall. So sturdiness is a concern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full Suspension&lt;/strong&gt;: I just prefer the softer ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is going to revolve around the frame. So I'm gonna start there.  Here are some questions that have been piling up during my search for a frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where is the best place to browse a good selection of frames?&lt;/strong&gt;  After some google searching, the only place that had a respectable selection to choose from was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cambriabike.com&quot;&gt;www.cambriabike.com&lt;/a&gt;.  And my god they have a ton of frames, too many for me to figure out actually.  There has to be other places though right?  Most I saw had less than 20 frames, while cambriabike had about 1000. That doesn't make much sense.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What brands should I be looking for or avoiding?&lt;/strong&gt;  I'm not keen on many bike brands but I do know a few, Cannondale, Kona, Specialized, Iron Horse, Giant.  But I see alot of brands on frames that I've never heard of.  Should I stay away from unknown brands or are there some frame makers out there that are great who just haven't made a name for themselves in full bike assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get a frame with suspension shock already imbedded, or empty full suspension frame and install my own shock?&lt;/strong&gt;  I really would prefer to install my own shock so I can choose the exact one I want.  I'd like to know a little bit about my shock and research it, plus I'd really like to find one that supports remote lockout.  You see it on front forks, but not really on rear shocks.  Anyways, I spoke with a guy at the bike shop and he said shocks had to be specially made for each frame.  That eye-to-eye length had to match just right with compression ratios and yadda yadda yadda.  I think he just wanted to scare me off so I'd buy one of the show room floor. After I get my frame, I should be able to take a look, and buy a freaking shock from Fox Racing or something that fits the bike right?  Then I can make adjustments to its performance with it's built in features.  Am I wrong here.... is it really so complicated that each shock has to be custom made for each frame?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to tell the difference between a downhill frame and an all-terrain frame?&lt;/strong&gt;  I realize there are sectioned out on the cambriabike website, but dang, some of them look so similar.  There are exotic looking down hill frames and exotic looking all-terrain frames.  I wouldn't be surprised if some frames showed up under both categories.  I haven't verified that, but I wouldn't be surprised.  If you were to look at a stats sheet, how do you REALLY differentiate between a downhill frame and an all-terrain frame?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is considered &quot;light&quot; for a frame?&lt;/strong&gt;  I guess you'd have to segregate carbon from aluminum frames, but what is actually &quot;light&quot;.  I'm looking at a frame here and it says 7lbs.... is that considered light versus the competition?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do you pick a frame size?&lt;/strong&gt; I see frames that say 18&quot;, 19&quot;, Large, Medium, what the heck is all this.  What is 18&quot; mean.  18 inches from what?  And medium.... medium what?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4347" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T06:26:13.553" Title="Building my own full suspension MTB: How to I select a frame?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9914" CreationDate="2012-06-20T01:29:27.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe use disk brakes, not rim brakes, if heating is a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm used to the idea that people put about 1 KW into the environment just by existing; I'm not sure what the problem is, with losing one extra KW when descending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T01:29:27.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9969" CreationDate="2012-06-20T01:37:31.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What sort of foods do you eat before/after biking to ensure that you are in high energy state all through the day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beakfast! Beakfast Beakfast Beakfast! Water! Lunch!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm vegetarian. I want water, bread (or toast), fruit, salt, something on the bread, soup or stew, a muffin or two, a burrito for lunch, snack in the afternoon, chocolate soy milk in my coffee, and dinner, plus a 'recovery day' of rest and unlimited eating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbs like bread and rice and pasta (not just sugar) are what I mostly need for energy. Oil is very calorie-dense (more than sugar), so add olive oil etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm &quot;working out&quot; I want to eat 50% more (daily calories) than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fat I put on in winter (for the cold rides), I have since sweated off again in summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T01:37:31.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2012-06-20T01:56:37.143" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though there no doubt are &quot;puncture-resistant&quot; tires that seek to accomplish that end by means of extra-thick rubber, for the past 15-20 years the standard for puncture resistance has been Kevlar belted tires, which look and ride like ordinary tires and weight essentially the same as ordinary tires (maybe a few grams more). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Kevlar belt under the tread increases puncture resistance by at least a factor 10, eliminating most common glass/thorn punctures, and also reducing the tendency of the tire to &quot;bruise&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Price wise, my recollection is that they are about 30% more expensive than standard tires, but they likely last that much longer (plus save a lot on tubes), so the cost is pretty much a wash.  (The odd thing is that Kevlar-belted tires are so hard to find.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people apparently confuse &quot;Kevlar belted&quot; tires with &quot;Kevlar bead&quot; tires.  The latter are &quot;folding&quot; tires and are supposedly desired because they are a hair lighter than metal bead tires, plus they can be folded and stuffed in a pannier.  But you can buy Kevlar belted with a metal bead (my preference, since folding tires are a PITA to install), and Kevlar bead tires are not necessarily Kevlar belted (in fact, most often not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;  Last Saturday I had my first puncture in maybe 5 years (maybe 2000 miles), while finishing up a 35-mile morning.  Just got around to fixing it because it's been ungodly hot and humid. (Hitched a ride home the last two miles, since there was no way to fix the flat in 95-degree weather on a 4-foot shoulder in the sun with traffic whizzing by at 70 MPH.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The culprit was apparently a construction staple that had pierced the tire just outside the belt, gone through the sidewall of the tube, and then punched a bigger hole in the inside diameter of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do notice the tire is wearing a bit thin, so I'll probably have to replace it within a year or so.  I'm dreading trying to find a 700/35c road tire with Kevlar belt, though -- the catalogs are now full of off-road tires and cater even less to the touring market than they did 5-10 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OK&lt;/strong&gt; -- To make this into a direct answer to the question, the main disadvantage of Kevlar belted tires is that you forget how to change a tire, you do it so rarely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T03:16:21.360" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T03:16:21.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10407" CreationDate="2012-06-20T02:17:26.150" Score="0" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a RS Revelation dual air fork. It's new, never used before. I installed it and after a few days I noticed, that it loses air. Maybe 20-30 psi over night. So at morning it's just too soft and have a sag around 40% (way too much).&#xA;Air leask from both positive and negative chambers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for this fork or should I check any specific parts of this fork?&#xA;Please note, that there's no RS service center in my city or anywhere nearby and I would prefer to fix problems (if any) by myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T05:20:04.140" Title="RS Revelation '11 dual air fork leaks" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9983" CreationDate="2012-06-20T04:45:10.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had experience with an RS Revelation fork, but you might find this &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/fork-problem-leaking-negative-air-pressue-638039.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forum post&lt;/a&gt; useful. Common solutions seem to be taking the fork apart, cleaning, and re-oiling the o-rings. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4344" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T04:45:10.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9910" CreationDate="2012-06-20T12:47:52.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll take a guess that you didn't keep the bike upright during the flat change, which led to the chain coming off inside the chain case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same thing happen to me on a bakfiets, which also has a fully enclosed chain and an internal rear hub, I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/2254105314/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;detailed instructions how I recommend removing the wheel of a bakfiets&lt;/a&gt;, but I think the &quot;trick&quot; you may be looking for may simply be to keep the bike upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T12:47:52.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9394" CreationDate="2012-06-20T13:01:56.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bike with two children, now aged 1 and 4, and have tried a number of solutions. A couple specific suggestions for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, some child seats come bundled with their own rack. One of them is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Child-Carrier/babyseat_wrack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak BabySeat&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, heavy duty racks include weight ratings. Old Man Mountain is a respected brand and has a rack in their line rated to carry 70 lbs. Their racks are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldmanmountain.com/Pages/RackPages/RearRacks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. (Beware, it's not cheap!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal experience has been with carrying my kids on a bakfiets, Xtracycle and an electric Yuba Mundo. If you are interested, I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikes-as-transportation.com/big-dummy-vs-yuba-mundo-vs-bakfiets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a lot more information and photos about those options&lt;/a&gt; on bikes-as-transportation.com. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T13:01:56.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9969" CreationDate="2012-06-20T13:25:46.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck using chocolate soy milk as a recovery drink, taking up bike trips up to 100 miles in a day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chocolate milk was a staple of &quot;Metal Cowboy&quot;'s family bike trip across Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand, it has a good mix of carbs, protein, sugar and a bit of caffeine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some sports-brands versions, but the standard stuff from the grocery store will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T13:25:46.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9979" CreationDate="2012-06-20T14:31:21.293" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest advantage of building your own bike is getting exactly what you want when you knew what you wanted from the git-go. Since you don't know what you want and admit to not really knowing what you're looking at, you're better off getting a built bike from a shop. Your first set of components are basically going to be an experiment. Those components will be cheaper on a stock bike and you'll be able to replace them with different/better parts as they wear out and you discover what you like. That said, I'll answer as many of your questions as I can...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There probably isn't a one best place to search for frames. Rather than looking for one place to shop, it'd be better for you to figure out what frame (or type of frame) you want and then shop around different places for that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All of the brands that you mentioned are respectable. If you're not sure about a company's frames, just check around for reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I actually prefer hard tails, so I don't have an answer on this one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Downhill frames are generally beefier and allow more travel on the rear shock and the geometry will be optimized for a longer fork with more travel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Again, since I mostly ride hard tails I'm not sure what a normal weight is for a soft tail.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer's page for a given frame will usually list the geometry. Look for the &quot;standover height.&quot; This is the quickest and easiest way to determine the fit of a bike, especially if your proportions are reasonably normal, i.e., you don't have monkey arms or super long legs. To measure your standover height, have someone hold one end of a tape measure on the ground between your feet and push the other end up as high into your crotch as you can. Uncomfortably high. Repeat a couple of times for accuracy. Buy a bike that has a couple inches less standover height than you do. You want a bit of clearance. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T14:31:21.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2012-06-20T16:52:06.827" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that hasn't been mentioned, and probably trumps any mechanical  advantages or disadvantages of disc brakes, is the fact that the UCI currently doesn't allow disc brakes in professional road races. This has a trickle down effect to you and me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most, if not all, of the national racing federations follow the UCI's lead on equipment rulings. This means that they don't allow disc brakes either. Since bicycle companies want to mass produce frames that are going to be useful to the widest consumer segment, they don't produce road frames with disc brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone else mentioned that the UCI recently started allowing disc brakes on cyclocross bikes and there's a good amount of speculation that they will allow them on road bikes in the future. The pros would actually love them for mountain descents since rim brakes heat up the rim and can cause their tubular tires to come unglued. If the UCI does allow them, I suspect that we'll start to see them on road bikes more and more. As that happens, manufacturers will sink more money into R&amp;amp;D and the mechanical disadvantages will begin to dwindle and perhaps disappear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T16:52:06.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9969" CreationDate="2012-06-20T17:32:24.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found it very helpful to include some fats and protein to my diet to help curb the hunger, not just plugging in carbs. I don't subscribe to the school of too much of any one thing, a good mix of carbs, fat, and protein is what I look for to keep me full and have longer lasting energy. Simple carbs seem to just put me in to a sugar crash shortly after eating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do this in a couple ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000Z945OS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spiru-Tein&lt;/a&gt; shake (banana flavor) with soymilk for protein, some fat, and vitamins. It's vegetarian, but not 100% vegan if you count the bee pollen. I find this really filling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eat a quick PB&amp;amp;J sandwich or peanut butter and banana sandwhich for a mix of protein, fat, and carbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dip baby carrots in hummus or peanut buttter for more protein. Not as filling as a lot of the other options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add flax oil and walnuts to oatmeal for a mix of fat (oil), protein (nuts), fiber/carbs (oatmeal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eat Avacado's for extra fat or put them in a sandwhich with some peanut butter&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T17:32:24.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2012-06-20T18:27:27.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a reference point, last week I was on a 6-day ride with about 120 other cyclists, from several states.  There were bikes of every shape and description, a few near museum pieces (ca 1980) and maybe 30 brand-new fancy carbon bikes.  Maybe 20 recumbents, and maybe 5 tandems, both recumbent and upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these, I did not observe a single case of a non-recumbent, non-tandem bike with disk brakes (and I specifically looked for this, when we were camped).  This is not because of economics -- several very wealthy people were on the ride and most of the rest would be considered upper middle class, plus, as I said, there were a number of very expensive bikes.  If they believed that disk brakes made sense they would have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tandems and about half the recumbents DID have disk brakes, since there are valid reasons to have disks on those bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T18:27:27.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-20T20:16:52.427" Score="3" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike lying around in a garage in California. I would like to use it here in Illinois. However, there's no one out there who can disassemble and pack the bike for me in California, ALTHOUGH there's someone to open the garage :-). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a service that disassembles, packs and ships the bike for me? Or at least disassemble and pack the bike so that I could use a pickup service myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4355" LastEditorUserId="4355" LastEditDate="2012-06-20T21:12:48.293" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T23:39:27.657" Title="Disassembly and Shipping of bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9993" CreationDate="2012-06-20T20:22:15.243" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some bike shops will disassemble and pack a bike for shipping. For a fee, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T20:22:15.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9995" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-06-20T20:56:55.327" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-06-20T20:56:55.327" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T20:56:55.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9996" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-06-20T20:56:55.327" Score="0" Body="This tag should be used for all questions dealing with the transportation of bicycles from one place to another (not using the bikes themselves as a form of transportation)" OwnerUserId="3644" LastEditorUserId="3644" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T09:38:43.243" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T09:38:43.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9993" CreationDate="2012-06-20T21:27:39.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider shipping by train.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oops, heard wrong -- checked with my son who just did this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove pedals, turn/remove bar, use box you purchase from them or you can sometimes get a used one for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-06-20T23:39:27.657" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T23:39:27.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5612" CreationDate="2012-06-20T21:45:48.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this image of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.srm.de/us/unternehmen/our-story-of-success&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the first SRM power meter&lt;/a&gt; interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dFA7N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First SRM power meter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crank is rigged up like a lever (rotating around the spindle) - the more forcefully you push the pedal, the more the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strain_gauge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;strain-guage&lt;/a&gt; bends, the output of which is used as part of calculating wattage (as is better described in the other answers!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many modern power-meters are essentially refinements on this concept&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T21:45:48.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4460" CreationDate="2012-06-21T11:08:32.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for future reference, I'll add this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My son purchased a &quot;Eurobike&quot; of sorts a couple of months back and brought it on the week-long group bike tour we took last week.  The bike is branded by a purportedly good outfit in California, and built (of course) in China.  It is a 26-inch unsuspended hybrid, with a variable-speed NuVinci rear hub and a Shimano generator front hub.  In general it appears to be a good quality bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the ride started it was discovered that one spoke was broken on the rear wheel (and a repair was effected), and during the last day of the ride a second spoke broke.  Both spokes broke at the nipple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On examination of the wheel it could be seen that the large-diameter hub and the 2-cross pattern caused the spokes to approach the rim at an angle substantially off from 90 degrees, causing quite obvious bending of the spoke where it enters the nipple.  The tendency to break at this point was likely further abetted by undersized, poor quality spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am guessing that the wheel will need to be relaced, though we will see what the bike shop and manufacturer say after my son gets back to California.  It's vaguely possible that the rim was drilled for the off-angle nipples but the wheel was built wrong, with the odd nipples in the even holes or some such.  In any event, heavier gauge, better quality spokes are needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Other than the spoke problem -- and an associated problem with the enclosed chain while servicing -- the bike performed admirably, handling some very substantial hills.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2017-12-28T02:06:12.090" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T02:06:12.090" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9979" CreationDate="2012-06-21T12:56:13.030" Score="11" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The internet. Bike magazines. Bike shops. Your friends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just as in any other industry there are good and bad brands. Good brands occasionally build awful bikes and vice versa. Read reviews, see the things in person, and test ride them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's very difficult to buy a frame without a shock. They don't have to be custom made as such, but rather custom tuned. Frame designers will usually work with the shock manufacturers to make their design work together with the shock. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, with a variety of tunes (high &amp;amp; low speed compression/rebound etc). Some shocks simply don't work well with certain suspension designs. Some won't fit due to piggyback reservoirs etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A downhill frame is designed to be thrown down mountains at ludicrous speed. Look for 180mm or more of suspension travel, a coil-sprung shock and very slack angles. Full-on cross-country bikes tend to be built for the exact opposite. Look for 100-120mm travel, air shocks  steeper angles and ludicrously light weight. All-mountain bikes sit somewhere in between, with 130-160mm travel, air shocks, fairly slack angles and a reasonably light weight. There's hundreds of pigeon-holes though (Freeride, Slopestyle, Dirtjump, etc) so if you're not sure, google the thing and see what it's for!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;~7lbs including shock sounds about right for a longer travel (~150-160mm) aluminum all-mountain frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An 18&quot; frame is usually 18&quot; from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube. The best thing is to go to the bike shop, sit on a variety of bikes and sizes and see what fits you! Many manufacturers will also have a size guide on their website and/or in their literature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, slacker head angles give more confidence when descending, as do lower bottom brackets, but both have their downsides when climbing (wandering front end, pedal strikes). Look our for ProPedal (on Fox shocks, similar tech on others), which gives you a partial lockout for use when riding on fire-roads and other less technical terrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other things that come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit a super-short stem (50-60mm) and wide bars (710mm or wider). They'll feel weird for the first 20 seconds and then you'll never be able to go back. So much better!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drivetrain: Shimano and SRAM are the big players. My personal preference is for Shimano but they both make good stuff. Shimano SLX or SRAM X7 tend to provide the best &quot;bang for buck&quot;, the XT and X9 being lighter and XTR and X0/XX providing serious bling. They aren't always compatible, so usually best to stick with one or the other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I run a 1x10 speed setup (1 front chainring, 32t, with an 11-36t cassette out back) with a chain device. Unless you live in some seriously steep hills/mountains or spend a lot of time on the road, I find it's a wide enough spread of gears for most things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a hell of a lot more to consider on top of that. Forks (how much travel? 15 or 20mm bolt-thru? Don't go for a plain old quick release!). Wheels (hubs, rims, tyres, go tubeless!). Brakes (Shimano SLX with 180F/160R rotors are really good). Grips (Get lock-ons!). Saddle. Seatpost (fixed or adjustable - check out the Rockshox reverb). Pedals (Flats or SPDs). Etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastEditorUserId="4307" LastEditDate="2012-06-22T09:16:20.073" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T09:16:20.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2012-06-21T13:13:28.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Greyhound freight also will ship bikes. You'll also need to box the bike for this approach. You'll have to pick-up at the destination bus station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T13:13:28.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10004" CreationDate="2012-06-21T13:32:44.433" Score="18" ViewCount="1289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having some problems being attacked by several red-winged blackbirds when I am riding. It seems to be the same birds because I am only having this problem in certain areas. I have talked to some other people who ride in the same areas but they don't seem to have this problem. I am not sure if it the color of by bike (red and black), or my helmet (silver, but not shiny), or my clothes  (black shorts, gray shirt). I have tried changing my route and it seemed to work for a couple of days, but my new route has the same problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions on why they may be swooping down or how to avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4358" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T22:37:47.117" LastActivityDate="2018-06-08T04:40:43.640" Title="Attacked by birds" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;animal-attack&gt;&lt;animals&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8903" CreationDate="2012-06-21T13:55:19.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think that &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; cycling helmets are beautiful. The lines are elegant. The transitions between the surface of the helmet and the vents are graceful. The way that the helmet increases in size from front to back is reminiscent of the wind. They're really quite astounding pieces of technology, if you really look at them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, cheap bicycle helmets just look bulky and blunt. And the type that most people seem to be linking to, the &quot;brain buckets&quot; that look like skateboarding or horse racing helmets, are just hideously ugly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that doesn't really answer your question, but as you mentioned ventilation is a big issue and I really think it's worth it to have a good cycling helmet. And there's a big difference in ventilation between a $40 and a $100 helmet. I think if you drop the money on a good cycling helmet, you'll be much happier with it than you will with a &quot;fashion&quot; helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T13:55:19.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10002" CreationDate="2012-06-21T13:56:03.740" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens during nesting season. These birds get aggressive and try to protect their territory near the nest.  They should stop this behavior when nesting season is over.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One main suggestion I've seen seem to be to look them in the eyes.  Also, you might try to put wire ties or ribbons in your helmet facing up and back to deter the attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this seems to be an issue with Australian magpies as well, they are much larger and can cause crashes and more serious injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Some Related Links:&lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Avoid Magpie Attacks: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Keep-Safe-from-Swooping-Australian-Magpies&quot;&gt;http://www.wikihow.com/Keep-Safe-from-Swooping-Australian-Magpies&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chicago Residents attacked by blackbirds: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chicagonow.com/blogs/so-not-an-expert/2010/06/to-kill-a-red-winged-blackbird-is-that-a-sin.html&quot;&gt;http://www.chicagonow.com/blogs/so-not-an-expert/2010/06/to-kill-a-red-winged-blackbird-is-that-a-sin.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magpie attacks: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-486920.html&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-486920.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T18:49:24.253" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T18:49:24.253" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10002" CreationDate="2012-06-21T15:16:22.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same problem as a pedestrian. They inhabit a tiny portion of my route (trees near a cycle path near water): I just slow down a bit there as I arrive, and move on quickly as I leave, and I always wear eye protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess that the cause is territorial behaviour, defending a nest: so don't take it personally, and I don't think it's anything to do with the colours you wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T16:01:30.693" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T16:01:30.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2781" CreationDate="2012-06-21T16:20:59.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In practice (i.e. now from experience), for the riding I described in the OP, I found that I need the following maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fix flats (inner tubes) in the tires. After replacing the tires with reliable touring tires, no more flats ... instead the tires need replacing after about 15000 km or maybe 4 years, whichever comes first (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/40542/1097&quot;&gt;When does a Marathon Plus tire (not) need replacing?&lt;/a&gt; for more details)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the bike in for service every 6 months or so (maybe expect 2 years of free service, i.e. free labour but pay for parts, included with purchase of new bike), and expect them to change the chain and cassette and maybe the hydraulic disk brake pads -- that's a few 1000 km for the chain, the same or slightly more for the brake pads. The cassette may or may not need changing with the chain, depending on how worn the chain was. Lubrication extends the life of the chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 7 years (maybe 30,000 km) the LBS replaced the whole drive chain (i.e. bottom bracket, chain ring, chain, cassette, and the wheels in the derailleur though not the derailleur itself)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I haven't yet had to change or service the wheels or spokes (nor rims since they're disk brakes), nor the frame (including the headset), nor the hydraulic disk brake system (except the brake pads), nor the seat, nor the locks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oh yes: batteries, if you're using lights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a all-aluminium &quot;Kona Dr. Dew&quot; ... cost was some $800 new ... compare with cost of a yearly bus pass at $1200, for which price you could afford to replace the whole bike every year if necessary (which it isn't) ... so it is quite a good deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T14:33:24.267" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T14:33:24.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10013" CreationDate="2012-06-21T17:49:59.697" Score="14" ViewCount="2479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have decided that, lack of sunburn aside, I need to get back to being pretty serious about UV protection.  I've been sloppy about it for a few years, and would like to not continue inviting skin cancer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm on my bike for 90 to 120 minutes every day, about 45 minutes in the morning and 55 minutes in the evening.  But, I'm in Austin, which means intense ambient heat &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; intense sun during the summer.  Sometimes I resent stop lights because they leave me sitting in direct sunlight with absolutely no air flow to cool me down.  Sometimes it's so hot that doesn't do any good, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far as I see it, my options are to lather up my arms, legs, and face with sunscreen twice a day, adding on a hat beneath my helmet (or getting a solid helmet); or to get some of the UV-protective clothing like what Izumi makes and wear that on most of my rides, though that means extra cloth on my arms, legs, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; hands, and thus more gear that I have to cope with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clothing appeals from a reusability standpoint.  It might also help by reflecting more sunlight and thus more heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunscreen appeals from a &quot;not putting on cloth that traps heat&quot; pespective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in bright/hot areas, which is more comfortable?  Should I just try both and see which I find more comfortable?  Even more importantly, which provides adequate protection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, if parts of my body are not tanning at all (such as, under my shirt), am I actually getting adequate protection there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3913" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T18:52:08.020" Title="What are the pros and cons of sunscreen vs. protective clothing?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8903" CreationDate="2012-06-21T19:45:47.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swedish company &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hovding.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hövding&lt;/a&gt; manufactures an &amp;quot;invisible&amp;quot; helmet, essentially an airbag. See in action &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7Oud3iGXWY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tLTnm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tLTnm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the invisible helmet!&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hovding.com/img/shop_cc/cykelhjalm_cc1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hovding.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="542" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T14:27:11.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8903" CreationDate="2012-06-21T20:10:50.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your budget, you could probably get something hand painted.  After some quick Googling, I found this on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.etsy.com/shop/bellehelmets?ref=seller_info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Etsy&lt;/a&gt;.  Looks like a standard Bern or Nutcase helmet, but it's been painted.  There's probably some manufacturer warnings about not painting the helmet, but I wouldn't imagine that paint would have much of an effect on these hardshell helmets, as long as you used a non-industrial paint.  And it would be safer than no helmet at all.  You could probably contact your local highschool or arts college to see if they have any students who were interested in doing something like this as a project. Probably would be a lot cheaper to hire someone locally than to pay $300 for the helmet on Etsy.  Found the non-Etsy site that seems to have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bellehelmets.myshopify.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;larger selection here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/20nUU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-06-22T00:28:44.130" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T00:28:44.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26" CreationDate="2012-06-21T22:23:49.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Silence-That-Squeaky-Disc-Brake-2011.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sanding your rotors&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that's for dry-squeals, but having a more abrasive surface may reduce wet noise as well, and even if not it should decrease the time it takes to burn off the water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="24748" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T00:57:15.107" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T00:57:15.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9171" CreationDate="2012-06-22T00:55:26.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a bad case of sciatica due to a lower back issue, and riding my recumbent bike seemed to help a lot. I &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikes-as-transportation.com/recumbent-bike-helped-with-sciatica-recovery/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;documented the experience&lt;/a&gt; in more detail on my blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T00:55:26.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10008" CreationDate="2012-06-22T01:09:13.317" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clothing is a good choice for sun block while cycling. Unlike walking or standing still, there's always a breeze as long as you are pedaling which increases comfort. Long sleeves and long pants may be comfortable on a bike in hot weather even when they are uncomfortable indoors or walking outdoors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros for Sunscreen as sun protection while biking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's invisible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can wear whatever you want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros for clothing as sun protection while biking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unlike sunscreen, it doesn't wear out after 80 minutes. You are never left wondering if it's time to re-apply or not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While you may find that your sunscreen has run out half-way through a multi-hour ride (as I recently did), you are less likely to find yourself unexpected naked half-way through a ride. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular clothing often has some amount of UV protection. While you might need to opt for full-coverage clothing, you don't necessarily need special clothing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't involve covering your skin in chemicals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't have that covered-in-sunblock feeling at the end of a ride. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of clothing-as-sunscreen before I departed with a friend on a 114 mile day on loaded touring bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/7241948828/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;departure by Mark Stosberg, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5330/7241948828_32a3eaf2fa.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;375&quot; alt=&quot;departure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a trip this past weekend I decided to spray-on sun-block instead. We I went to re-apply some half-way through the trip, I found the canister was empty. Sunblock-Fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.220" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T01:09:13.317" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-22T01:09:13.317" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10008" CreationDate="2012-06-22T05:09:08.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like wearing a clean long-sleeved shirt of e.g. thin cotton or cotton/poly. It is hot so I perspire. So I am cycling in the (endless) breeze, and wearing a wet shirt, which is cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11312422&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11312422&lt;/a&gt; concludes,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The two cotton fabrics used in this study offered limited protection against UV radiation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laundering with detergent and water improves UPF slightly by causing&#xA;fabric shrinkage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dyeing fabrics [to blue or yellow] or adding a&#xA;UV-absorbing agent during laundering substantially reduces UV&#xA;transmission and increases UPF.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More UVA is transmitted through the&#xA;fabrics than UVB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-06-22T05:15:10.870" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T05:15:10.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10021" CreationDate="2012-06-22T10:44:17.300" Score="2" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am seriously considering road racing, I am wondering what level of fitness I should get myself to before considering entering races. I intend to do TT races next year anyhow, but I was wondering what kind of level I would need to be so that I would generally stay in the bunch for the whole of a race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sort of answer I am expecting are be able to maintain 30kmh for 1 hour (on your own) or something like that, if that makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="725" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-06-22T14:29:44.327" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T15:13:04.970" Title="UK Category 4 Road Racing" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10034" CreationDate="2012-06-22T11:12:12.747" Score="3" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to see how can I make this 3-gear bike go easier on uphill. It has an internal gear hub. I don't know much about bikes but I'm thinking if I can merely replace the hub for one with 14 gears (Rohloff Speedhub) and also, not sure, but can I change the single chainring at the cranks (front) with another one that will have two chainrings so that I get a smaller one to make uphill even easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PICTURE: REAR gear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3bhs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PICTURE: front gear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bJUJi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4366" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2012-06-22T15:50:57.207" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T08:42:36.450" Title="Make a 3-gear bike go easy on uphill" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10066" CreationDate="2012-06-22T11:36:44.243" Score="3" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to remove the pedal crank arm  together with the front chain set when fixing a bottom bracket problem, but now that I've re-attached it, gear changes in my front derailleur are completely off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is because the distance between the chain set and the frame changed slightly after I installed the crank arm back on. I used a crank extractor to take it off, is there another tool I need to use to make it as tight as it was before? Or is the new gap a normal occurrence and I just go ahead re-adjusting the gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4367" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T13:10:05.030" Title="Problems with gears after re-attaching front chainring" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10017" CreationDate="2012-06-22T11:41:22.007" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing a hub is not a &quot;simple&quot; procedure -- it, at a minimum, involves relacing the rear wheel, probably with different sized spokes (whose size you must accurately determine).  Relacing is not beyond the abilities of a competent backyard mechanic, but is a skill that needs to be learned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add a second chainring you must install some sort of device to take up the chain slack.  A front derailer does not do this, so either a rear derailer or some specialized device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be far easier/cheaper to purchase a new (or &quot;new to you&quot; used) bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you MIGHT be able to do is to replace your front chainring with a smaller one.  Or it's vaguely possible that there is available a replacement larger sprocket for your rear hub.  Of course, either of these would slow down your high gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T11:41:22.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10016" CreationDate="2012-06-22T14:11:52.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to figure out where the local racers do their training.  Ask your local bike store if they operate any training groups and if there are any racers in the group.  Go out with them on training runs to see if you can get a feel for where you stand in terms of fitness.  My LBS has rides once a week, and there are some racers that show up for that, but I don't see much of them after they leave.  I think this would be ideal, because even if you couldn't keep up, you could always hang back with the slower riders and have a good time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T14:11:52.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10016" CreationDate="2012-06-22T15:13:04.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kibbee's suggestion is a good one. You should feel comfortable on a fast group ride...one that has a pace range of 35-40 kph. YOu should also be able to handle surges in speed and intervals of speeding up and slowing down. You should feel comfortable in a group of riders. I'm not just talking about being able to ride in a paceline, but also feel comfortable with 5-10 riders in close proximity to you - elbows almost touching, handling corners, etc. Find a moderate roadie group ride and go out with them a few times, you'll soon find if you are cut out for racing or if you need a little practice. Talk with the guys/ladies on the ride and learn all you can. Experience is invaluable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fitness is definitely important, but handling skills are often overlooked with new racers. It's both for your safety and the safety of others that you are able to hold a line, know pack etiquette, and are not going to be jumpy or make lots of wild riding or erratic moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common issue with riders coming from the TT world is just that. They are fit enough, but they are used to riding by themselves and not necessarily drafting or riding with several people around them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T15:13:04.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10023" CreationDate="2012-06-22T15:46:03.970" Score="6" ViewCount="5896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a cross bike mostly on the road right now and my rear tire is wearing much faster than my front, which is to be expected. I found the following thread which I think is a similar question but not quite the same, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2583/should-i-change-both-tires-when-i-need-to-change-one&quot;&gt;Should I change both tires when I need to change one?&lt;/a&gt; which says to just buy one tire and replace the front tire with the new tire and move the old front to the rear. As this article says you want a good tire on the front for traction and safety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I am riding knobby tires that have been worn, wouldn't that just make them a little more road like and help with the road riding that I am doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why it a bad idea to rotate tires instead of replacing the worn tire? I would like to stress that they are not &quot;bad&quot; just the knobs have been worn smoother or maybe that makes them bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I don't use slicks because I do have short portions of several rides that I do which have short stretches of dirt and/or gravel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4358" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T16:37:56.450" Title="Rotate or replace tires" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10022" CreationDate="2012-06-22T16:06:29.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rotating tires on a car is usually done to even out the wear (unless you have specific front / back / left / right tires) across the tread - they'll often wear on the outside of the tread, so rotating them presents fresher tread to the gripping surfaces (i.e., they're wearing at the places that make the most contact with the road).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bike tire you shouldn't run into this problem (unless you make a lot of left turns, or a lot of right turns). &quot;Rotating&quot; in this case means moving the less-worn one (front tire) to the position where it'll get more wear (to the back) and replacing the more-worn one in the position where it'll get less use (to the front). This means you don't have to buy 2 tires when one gets worn (just one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of observations. If you play games with your tires (e.g., stickier front tire, deeper groove on the rear, etc.) you should obviously replace the tire with one with similar characteristics, so you won't be able to swap them around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, one replaces a tire when it either has a huge gash or has worn down to the point where there's a significant decline in the performance (i.e., no tread left or it's about to blow). If you're using knobby tires and you're wearing the nubs down you're correct in that they'll take on the characteristics of road slicks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not necessarily &quot;bad&quot; to rotate them; if you can only afford one tire or the other one is perfectly good it means you can continue to ride without having to miss meals or rent payments. If you're still able to maintain the needed grip throughout your ride (road and gravel) there's no real reason to replace them if they're just a little worn. If, on the other hand, you're starting to have difficulty with traction, control, leaks, etc. it might be time to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative to &quot;rotating&quot; your tires would be to buy a new set (if you can afford them) and save the less-worn of your two existing ones as a spare just in case you run over a chunk of glass or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T16:06:29.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="429" CreationDate="2012-06-22T19:57:16.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interestingly enough, I just replaced my middle ring on almost the identical equpment that you have.  It cost me $27 US dollars for a new 42 tooth Ultegra ring (from Amazon), and it took about 5 minutes to swap out.  The shifting wasn't the problem, it was the horrendous &quot;snap&quot; I would get when pedaling more than idly when sitting on the 42... and mine isn't nearly as worn as yours!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A few facts about chain-line wear:&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;1. The actual wear-out of almost any chain is the rollers against the pins.  The rollers are just a little cylinder of metal, and it isn't as hard as the metal of the chain pins, so it wears first.  As the roller gets thinner-walled, the &lt;em&gt;effective&lt;/em&gt; length of the chain gets longer, although measuring pin-to-pin with a ruler barely changes at all!&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;2. Old chain/worn rings &quot;works&quot; because the chain has so much slop in it that it can get right over the teeth.&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;3. New chain/worn rings &lt;em&gt;fails&lt;/em&gt; in this way:  Picture the top of the chainring, just as the chain is feeding onto it.  A link goes over a pin, and the roller &quot;beds down&quot; into the hollow of the sharktooth pattern.  The next roller would do the same, but first it has to clear the tip of the next tooth, which it can't &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; do under high tension, so it &quot;sits on&quot;.  As the chainring rotates, eventally the roller that it stuck on the tip of the tooth &quot;drops in&quot; - with a loud &lt;em&gt;snap&lt;/em&gt; and a very disconcerting feeling of the pedal dropping out from under your foot.  Ride it that way for very long and you'll wear out the chain &lt;em&gt;VERY QUICKLY INDEED&lt;/em&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;4. Filing out the teeth of a worn ring to keep using it - yeah that oughta work, in a way, but the shifting performance won't be as nice.  The reason the teeth are so strangely shaped is for smoother, quicker shifting.  Also the teeth will be much weaker and the end-game of filing them down for &quot;extended&quot; life is that they will eventually start breaking under high load.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4370" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T19:57:16.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="429" CreationDate="2012-06-22T20:06:22.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you only need to replace the front rings when they give you problems, either with skipping, chain suck, or shifting problems.  Running with a worn front will not add appreciably to the wear of other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a well-equipped bike shop should have a gauge for checking the rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T20:06:22.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9925" CreationDate="2012-06-22T20:22:02.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will go further and say that what your mechanic told you is likely to be &lt;em&gt;NONSENSE&lt;/em&gt;.  See below for my analysis of why, but let me also say that people who ride below recommended pressure are more likely to give up and quit riding, because it's so much more tiring and frustrating!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; for &quot;full details&quot;, but for hook-bead clincher tires, 27x whatever are the same bead diameter - so your worn-out 27x1 1/8 and your new 27x1 1/4 should both interface with your rims &quot;successfully&quot;.  Rims are not run anywhere near their strength limit as far as tire pressure goes - if they were, they'd fail if you hit a bump or curb particularly hard!  But even then, instead of breaking they just go out of true but still hold the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do a (destructive) test to &quot;prove&quot; it - get an old wheel, a tire you're willing to sacrifice (with a good tube), and an industrial compressor with an accurate gauge.  Now slowly inflate the tire until &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; goes bang.  It will, and quite explosively (wear safety glasses).  Now, take a look at what broke - see, it's the steel &quot;bead&quot; wire in the tire that snapped, and let the tire slip over the rim.  The rim is still OK, and the tube would have held the pressure if the tire hadn't given way!  (This experiment will fail more quickly with a very old used tire - the sidewall will explode instead.)  For a tire with no &quot;sidewall&quot; issues, this experiment should allow for almost 2x pressure to be applied before the bead gives up the ghost.  I honestly do not know what would happen in this experiment with one of those new-fangled kevlar-beaded foldable tires - if anyone tries it, let us know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4370" LastEditorUserId="3186" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T06:08:48.190" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T06:08:48.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10030" CreationDate="2012-06-22T20:31:59.980" Score="7" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is related to - but I think it's sufficiently different from - &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/452/what-is-the-best-method-to-teach-a-young-child-to-ride&quot;&gt;the question about how to teach a child to ride.&lt;/a&gt;  My 8-year-old daughter can ride her own bike, but she's a bit wobbly, especially when she's pushing hard on the pedals, so she's currently limited to fairly flat, uncrowded routes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know what's the best thing to focus on teaching her next.  e.g. should she practice riding uphill and back down? or should I try to get her comfortable pedaling standing up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T21:02:36.837" Title="What is the next step in teaching my child to ride?" Tags="&lt;children&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9676" CreationDate="2012-06-22T20:45:22.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much it doesn't matter - as long as the derailleur is comparable in brand and general &quot;shape&quot;.  The derailleur doesn't really care how many gears you have!  The two things that have to be the same as (or compatible with) your old one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cable pull ratio - each &quot;click&quot; of your shifter pulls the cable a certain amount, and the derailleur has to move by the correct amount per click.  So - if it's a shimano, get a shimano, and you'll probably be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Capacity - if your largest tooth cog in back is a 32-tooth, no way is a &quot;short cage&quot; derailleur going to handle it.  On the other hand if your largest in back is 23 tooth, a &quot;long cage&quot; would work but would look &lt;em&gt;VERY SILLY&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with several caveats to boot - as long as it's the same brand (or compatible), and approximately the same physical dimensions, it should be fine; 7, 8, 9 speed really doesn't matter.  Post a close-up photo of the broken derailleur where we can read the model numbers/etc. and see the thing, and we'll give you a link where you can buy a replacement from :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4370" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T20:45:22.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10028" CreationDate="2012-06-22T21:02:36.837" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that, besides having fun - which is of utmost importance with kids otherwise they give up and choose to do something that is more fun and less distressful -, after they learn to keep balance and speed up, I'd say the next things must learn are to brake properly and to control their trajectory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, one of the most exciting things to do, in my humble opinion, is to play tag (chasing game), or &quot;follow the leader&quot;, in a park, taking turns on who is the leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are the leader (of course, not going too fast), she has to chase you and so she learns to do quick turns, brake, and change directions on demand (reactive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When she is the leader, she develops her ability to read her surroundings and form trajectory-planning strategies in her mind (proactive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motor control resides in the cerebellum, and it must be automated by exhausitve repetition until it becomes automatic. There's no better way do do it than by playing and having fun, specially if it involves bicycle riding skills. It literally &quot;grows in you&quot;. (I think that's why people say that no one ever forgets how to ride a bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-06-22T21:02:36.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2012-06-23T00:18:46.887" Score="-7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slick Road tires are &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; safe in the wet. Bicycles do not go fast to enough to even consider the hydroplaning argument. As the road get wet the imperfections in the asphalt, that actually provide grip, fill up with water, oil, road gunk making the road and the tire very slick. If the tire now cannot channel any water away you are glass on glass. If you add cooler temperatures to this you now have harder rubber and severely reduced traction. Watch a motorcycle road race on tv. Their rain race tires have very aggressive tread patterns and soft rubber. Slick are only used in the dry and that is the only time you should trust them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4372" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T00:18:46.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10022" CreationDate="2012-06-23T07:21:32.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont rotate tires on a bike. I dont think I have heard you should. It will help the tires to wear together but unlike a car, it doesn't cause problems if you don't. I will buy 3-4 rear tires for every front tire. There is also the issue with better performance with some tires on the front vs rear, just not designed to be on both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I tend to stay away from knobbies, even on my &quot;dirt&quot; bike. The knobs put up quite a bit of wind resistance vs road tires, I found this out bombing a really steep road, I could feel them push the wind. You say there are &quot;short stretches of dirt&quot; in your rides. Even when I raced in dirt I used street tires. Knobbies have better grip on acceleration and in turns but it is not like glue. I would rather have the street tires and know I will slide at 35 degrees than have the knobbies and think I can hit a turn at 36 degrees and slide. Especially when you are only using the knobs on &quot;short stretches of dirt&quot;, you might consider street tires to help with better traction and road resistance on the street and better wind resistance all around. And there is a HUGE difference in riding knobs on the street vs road tires, they can cause you to slide out way easier on tight turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T07:21:32.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10017" CreationDate="2012-06-23T08:42:36.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swap the chainring on the front to a smaller chainring, or swap the chainring on the rear to a larger chainring. This is the cheapest solution, you may need another chain too to accomodate for larger chain size. You will loose speed on the top gear though ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T08:42:36.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10037" CreationDate="2012-06-23T14:41:59.177" Score="8" ViewCount="1089" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was making a left hand turn the other day when a u-turning vehicle t-boned me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I somehow managed to land on my feet, but the bike didn't fare as well. It landed on the drive side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My back wheel was tacoed, and the driver bought me a replacement.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GDtqr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;it&amp;#39;s supposed to be round!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I've had some time to install the replacement, I'm noticing that either my derailleur or the hanger is bent. It looks like it's the hanger, but is there a way to tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else should I check? I've cleaned up the frame looking for cracks and it all looks good. It's a pretty robust aluminum frame, so I'm not surprised. Is there anything else that may be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T19:18:48.927" Title="I was in a collision the other day. What should I check?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10036" CreationDate="2012-06-23T15:19:46.853" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend not taking a chance you'll miss something and take it by your local bike shop. They have a tool that can correctly re-align a bent hanger...this is much more likely then the derailleur being bent. Also, the mechanics have looked at tons of bikes up close and will notice little things that you might miss. Many LBSs will do a post crash check for free (the one I hang out at will).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, here's what I check when someone brings me a crash bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good look over of the bike in it's current state before I begin. I'm looking for signs of how the bike hit, scratches and the like. If I wasn't the rider, ask the rider how the accident happened. This will help me to focus more intently on some areas. Don't let this make you focus to the detriment of the rest of the bike. Before doing anything to a bike that may have legal/insurance claims make sure you document with photos...if appropriate get clearance from police/lawyer to start having the bike put back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame soundness. With the wheels off, carefully go over the frame and fork for any cracks, dents, bends, or scratches. Scratches are okay, but they can help pinpoint impact areas. Wavy paint can show where a frame is subtly bent. A tiny crack on the surface may be deeper/bigger under the finish. Most of the time we think of cracks in conjunction with carbon, but a aluminum (or even CroMo) frame can get stress cracks as well due to a collision. With metal bikes, bends and dents can weaken the integrity of the frame as much as a crack does a carbon bike. The bigger the dent or the closer it is to a weld, the worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On metal bikes, look at each weld carefully. A bad weld can hold for years and then separate due to stress. I haven't seen this on a bike frame, but I've seen it on other equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steer tube/headset - is it still straight. Often the handlebars will be pushed off straight with the tire. This can be fixed quickly (loosen stem, realign, tighten stem), but is another indicator of stress. If not straight, spend some extra time here. Either way, check that everything moves as smoothly as it did before. The angle/alignment/tolerances within the headset are small and a little bit of being off can cause binding. Loosening the compression nut (top of steertube) and re-tightening can often realign. If you haven't worked on a headset before, get a hand from your LBS to show you torque and order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes - quick and easy, are they damaged? Do they still work? Scratches are okay as long as the scratch isn't rubbing anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drive train - the hanger (as yours probably is) is often the first casualty. Remove rear derailleur and check (LBS has the special tool). Next look to see if there's any damage (other then cosmetic scratches) on the RD, especially where the shifting cable is routed and tightened. Move up to the front derailleur. This can be bent pretty easily. Usually it can be bent back, be careful though...easiest to have a bike mechanic bend it back into shape if needed. Check the chainrings for missing teeth (note that on some cranks, there are supposed to be missing teeth to aid in shifting) or bends. Check that the bottom bracket is still tight and that the cranks rotate smoothly with no binding. Check the chain, ideally remove it and let it hang - that's the easiest way to see single link bends, it should hang straight...if you leave it on the bike, slowly rotate the cranks while watching the middle of the chain from above, you are looking for any bend - it will present as an angle between two links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seatpost and saddle. Saddle may have been turned, but even if not, I recommend completely removing the seatpost (mark the height for reassembly) so you can look for bends or cracks. If bent it won't come out/go in smoothly. If cracked, you need to get a new one and do a careful inspection of the seat tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels - check for cracks in the rim, cracked nipples, bent or loose spokes. Take off the rubber and put on a truing stand checking for true, dish, and roundness. Check the rubber for skid wear and/or gashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rider - keep aware of yourself for the next several days. You can miss that you also hurt something else because it doesn't start really bothering you for a bit. My last crash, my shoulder felt fine for a day then started bothering me...it was minor, but if I wasn't paying attention I wouldn't have connected where/how the injury occurred which can be important to the doc if you end up needing medical intervention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T15:19:46.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10036" CreationDate="2012-06-23T19:18:48.927" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't say much about the bike.  If it's a carbon frame, or has a carbon fork, or a carbon seat post, you should not ride on it until you've ruled out any hairline fractures.  Steel and aluminum bend before they break, but carbon tends to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bustedcarbon.com/&quot;&gt;fail catastrophically&lt;/a&gt; which could lead to the frame falling apart underneath you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a rear collision, you definitely want to check the chain-line through the rear derailleur to see if the hanger is bent, but if you're using indexed shifters the problem may just be the indexing is off.  You can easily check whether the new cassette has different gear ratios than the old one by looking at the cassettes side by side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T19:18:48.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3768" CreationDate="2012-06-23T19:49:05.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might suggest you look for a &quot;touring&quot; tire, which I expect is made for reliable long distances on roads including rough roads. For example I have &lt;code&gt;Schwalbe Marathon Plus&lt;/code&gt; tires, and I like them (e.g. for 30 km/day): they are much stronger than my previous tires, and they resist getting flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T19:49:05.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10041" CreationDate="2012-06-23T20:04:05.153" Score="2" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am moving to Vienna, Austria in two weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife and I want to buy bikes before we leave, but I'm wondering if the hassle of trying to find great bikes on such short notice would be greater than just buying some when we get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife is looking for a town bike for &#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eric&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4377" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T20:53:52.953" Title="Price difference between buying a bike in Europe (Austria) vs USA?" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;price&gt;&lt;europe&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10040" CreationDate="2012-06-23T20:53:52.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be in favor of waiting until you move. There is the possible problem of needing service work under warranty and the nearest dealer being some distance away. You must also factor in the shipping cost  along with the expense of disassembly and reassembly if you can't do it yourself. There is also no better way to start a good relationship with your local shop than by buying two bikes. The other advantage is being able to check out the terrain and see what type of bike you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T20:53:52.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10043" CreationDate="2012-06-24T01:21:56.743" Score="3" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a high performance rower that uses cycling extensively to cross train (the local waterways are.....suboptimal some of the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm out for longer rides (2-3hr) I generally run out of calories and crash, occasionally getting dizzy.  I've started carrying a camel pack and some snacks (granola, GU, etc.) which helps if the pack decides to stop for a quick pitstop but its often hard to get enough calories down fast without feeling it 10 minutes later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never have problems within my normal training but it typically never exceeds 2.5hrs and isn't quite as continuous.  Such a workout can easily burn 1500+ Cal, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is there anything I can eat before rides to maintain blood sugar levels so I don't pass out while trying to strike fear into the hearts of the local cyclists?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4379" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T05:17:45.090" Title="Cross training athlete, running out of energy during long rides, what should I eat before I ride?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;cross-training&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10042" CreationDate="2012-06-24T11:00:26.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what you consider a &quot;long ride&quot; to be but I just did a 77 mile fund-raiser ride yesterday in Ohio. I averaged a little over 16mph for the entire ride. About 50 miles of the ride was into a 10-15 mph head-wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the ride, I probably went through 10 large bottles of water and Gatorade, a dozen energy bars, a couple brownies and a Subway sub. The temperature was in the mid-80's with a little humidity. Even with all that, there were times I was a little light-headed and got some chills (almost a sure sign of not enough hydration). So on rides like this, you almost cannot drink and eat enough. It's very important you try though. If you don't, your body will let you know it, and you won't like how it feels :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need the pack to stop just to hydrate and eat. Most cycling jerseys have enough pockets to store a lot of energy bars and bottles of water. And you can probably include two bottles on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2012-06-24T11:00:26.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10042" CreationDate="2012-06-24T12:33:31.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to guess that you shouldn't be looking to replace those 1500 calories immediately during the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shouldn't part of your energy-to-exercise come from burning stored body-fat?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And a lot of your energy, from the food you ate the day and week (not just an hour or two) before the ride?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare your 1500+ Cal, with the 15000+ calories in one day that is needed to swim the cold English Channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-06-24T12:33:31.783" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-24T19:43:16.093" Score="4" ViewCount="8602" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike mechanic told me today that my front chainrings are starting to wear out and I should consider replacing it soon (with my next chain replacement). The cassette is still in good condition and does not show any signs of needing replacement. The bike has 3000 to 4000 miles on it and all parts except the chain are original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific reason for the visit to the mechanic was due to the chain dropping to the inside. The drivetrain is all SRAM Rival. There have been no other issues with the drive train. The mechanic seemed to think it was a bit unusual for the front chainring to wear out before the cassette, though it was not unheard of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any common causes (ex: lack of specific maintenance?) that would cause the chainring to wear out so much faster than the cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T05:22:50.620" Title="What are common causes of premature chainring wear?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-24T20:32:37.413" Score="3" ViewCount="1675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I braked hard today and felt the pressure in my disk brake drop very suddenly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since that point the brake has not been working with no action at the calliper and little  pressure in the lever but not spongy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any one know the likely cause and whether a bleed might fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see any evidence of fluid leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4383" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T17:48:07.870" Title="Hayes Sole Disk Brake sudden loss of pressure." Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;hayes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10045" CreationDate="2012-06-25T01:32:36.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, one drops a chain during a down shift. Sometimes it happens only when you shift quickly or under heavy load, but it does happen. There are a few things that can cause a chain to miss the inner chainring: A maladjusted front derailleur or shifter, a very worn or dirty drivetrain, a bent or loose chainring, or a maladjusted chainline (the line which centers your chainrings and cassette parallel to your frame.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your chainrings are also wearing out prematurely, it could be that everything is really dirty or your derailleur is out of whack, but these would be obvious and easy to fix (cleaning and lubing your chain infrequently should get you 2-3,000 miles of life, fastidious cleaning might get you 5k. I have had good luck with wet lubes-specifically ProGold.) Additionally, make sure that any chain that gets installed is specifically for 10 speed systems, otherwise the wider plates may rub against adjacent cogs or rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A less obvious cause of premature-wear-and-tear-and-drop would be a bent or loose chainring, but you or your LBS will probably notice this before it totally wears out your rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last issue is one that I think may be worth investigating, and that is a chainline that puts your chainrings too far out. Downshifts will tend to pull the chain to the inside, especially when you are on your inside cog. This could also exacerbate wear from crossing your gears (which, on a compact 2x10 isn't a huge deal.) Any bike that is set up by a pro will spec parts that work (and even a home builder should be in good enough shape. Big problems arise for single and fixed gears, though.) All told, I can't imagine a scenario where a road frame built up with Sram Rival components would have a chainline so far out that it would wear out a pair of rings in 3-4,000 miles. This could be an issue when mixing mountain and road components. Given &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/jKWDq-ro1rL01NkbQ_GUdovQhhvlDln_XCPyA7zqG1c/mtime:1297962105/sites/default/files/techdocs/95-6115-007-000%20Rev%20A%20-%20Road%20Cranksets_3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these instructions&lt;/a&gt;, I could also see someone potentially messing up a BB/crank installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, a chain keeper-a device which prevents your chain from dropping to the inside-is a small but valuable investment-though in your case not a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T01:32:36.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10042" CreationDate="2012-06-25T03:22:50.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is, is there anything I can eat before rides to maintain blood sugar levels so I don't pass out while trying to strike fear into the hearts of the local cyclists?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, you need to consume calories &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Option 1 - Carry along &quot;energy&quot; (not protein bars) bars, or gel packs, etc, and consume freely. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Option 2 - &quot;Make it yourself&quot; - Boiled potatoes or any high carb snack should work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Option 3 - Pre-made product - Something like Hammer Perpetuem or other similar products.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above thinking that you're doing at least 2+ hours of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pre-ride&lt;/em&gt; - Eat some complex carbs. Oatmeal? Or something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your complaint is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I'm out for longer rides (2-3hr) I generally run out of calories and crash,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting. Calories can be consumed while riding. Running out means that you didn't bring any with you. Bring some along on your next ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user313" LastEditorDisplayName="user313" LastEditDate="2012-06-25T05:17:45.090" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T05:17:45.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10051" CreationDate="2012-06-25T04:07:05.637" Score="4" ViewCount="1252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a pair of Speedplay pedals and was trying to set them up today. Once I got the cleats on with the included shims, I tried to clip in and had to use an absurd amount of force to get into them (basically pulling up on my frame while putting almost all of my weight into the pedal). I did lube the engagement spring and have tried to put my heel down and wiggle a bit when clipping in but have still been largely unsuccessful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal for a first setup before they are broken in? Or did I set up the cleats improperly in some way that is causing me problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, at 130 lbs, do I weigh enough to be able to reasonably expect to clip in ok? I thought about the X5s or Light Actions since it sounds like the engagement force is less, but Speedplay says you shouldn't race on them and LBS said engagement force wouldn't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4385" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T04:39:22.763" Title="Speedplay Zero Engagement Force" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10057" CreationDate="2012-06-25T04:07:34.927" Score="0" ViewCount="1039" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all -- I know this isn't Medical-Overflow-Exchange, sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I think my issue may be cycle related. I've been riding a lot lately, and actually just started riding Fixed again. And for about 3 weeks the whole left side of my foot and about 6-8 inches up my leg are completely numb!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read it could be related to my back, I've been cycling and when even not cycling carrying a sling bag for work; with a Laptop and a few notebooks in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody come across this before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4386" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T03:38:53.593" Title="Left side of my foot -- 8 inches up leg numb?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10049" CreationDate="2012-06-25T04:22:15.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zeros do take a bit more finesse to engage. It's more about alignment than raw force, so even at 130, once you build a bit of muscle memory in the exact foot position, you should be fine. Practice a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, it's not (mostly) a matter of force, but the Zeros have much tighter tolerances so your foot has to be just right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW: I used Zeros for track, but Light Action elsewhere...I suspect the &quot;don't use for racing&quot; is primarily a legal thing, but I have pulled out of the Light Actions most recently causing me to hit the ground unkindly whilst in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T04:22:15.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10045" CreationDate="2012-06-25T05:22:50.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do you wear chainrings quickly?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cross Chaining - If you tend to be in the big ring on the back and the big ring on the front at the same time, you're probably doing it wrong. Same with running the small ring on the front with the small ring on the back.  This can cause uneven wear on the front chainrings due to the awkward angles the chain must bend. This can wear the sides of the front chainring teeth and make them more pointy.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are riding dirty or don't lube up first- If you ride offroad especially, your chain can get dirty. If your chain is not lubed properly, it can cause extra friction. Keep the chain clean or it will work like sandpaper, wearing down your chainrings and make sure you use the proper type of lube for your environment. Chain wear tends to deform the inside surface of the gap between teeth, making an uneven 'U' shape between teeth.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding with an already &quot;stretched&quot; chain - If your chain is worn, It has a different shape, which is going to cause extra wear on your chainrings. If it's worn too much, you can only really replace it.  Running with a &quot;stretched&quot; chain is probably worse than running with a worn chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a pretty new bike and the chain is well maintained, I'd probably blame it on cross chaining. Be aware of your riding style and make sure you're not overextending the range of your front chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T05:22:50.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10046" CreationDate="2012-06-25T06:09:09.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a major fluid loss, somewhere. Check around the hose joints, and the brake levers and calipers for fluid leakage. If not, it's probably a blown piston seal, which in rare cases can leak, but reseal under low fluid pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T06:09:09.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10064" CreationDate="2012-06-25T08:25:06.493" Score="4" ViewCount="44555" Body="&lt;p&gt;The up-shift lever (the long one) on my gear shifter for the front derailleur got stuck and now I'm looking for a way to disassemble it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to do it without removing it from the handlebars? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4367" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T09:53:18.640" Title="Disassembling Shimano integrated gear shifters (brifters)" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10050" CreationDate="2012-06-25T12:35:02.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that sling bags are terrible for your back. They don't distribute the weight evenly at all, and can cause major problems I don't know why they are so popular. I guess backpacks look too &quot;high-school&quot;.  But I would start by getting a backpack. They make a few of them that are specially equipped for carrying laptops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's the bike, you might want to check that everything is aligned properly.  Ensure that your seat is straight and level.  Ensure that you handle bars are properly aligned. Check for a bent axles in the wheels and bottom brackets, although that may be less likely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess a couple clarifications could help diagnose some other posibilities.  Do you have brakes on your fixie? If you do have brakes, do you use them? Do you wear bike shoes or have toe clips?  Is the pain always there, or only after a prolonged ride? If it's continuous, I'd definitely get myself to a doctor. That's way too long to be numb in such a large part of your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T12:35:02.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10348" CreationDate="2012-06-25T13:42:16.083" Score="7" ViewCount="34762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently running a 2x10 shimano tiagra 10-speed drivetrain with a 50/34 compact crankset, a 12-30 rear cassette, and a Shimano Tiagra GS-4600 derailleur (that's medium cage aka road long cage) on a light touring / road bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to ride a lot of hills and want a touch more range for tough climbs.  Can I make this work with an 11-32 or 11-34 mountain cassette or do I need to get a long cage derailleur? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like I might answer my own questions, becuase the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/RD/EV-RD-4600-3151C_v1_m56577569830775436.pdf&quot;&gt;specs&lt;/a&gt; say, they say I shouldn't really run more than a 30t max in the rear. However, I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this and had success going past spec with this derailleur or if I should resign myself to spending more cash on a new derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T13:33:16.533" Title="Can I fit a cassette with a larger range with my Shimano Tiagra 10-speed ( GS-4600) derailleur?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10050" CreationDate="2012-06-25T14:53:57.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not unusual for the feet to get a bit numb from long-duration riding, but the numbness wouldn't be expected to extend far from the contact point of the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the numbness extends up the leg suggests that it's neurological, likely due to a compressed nerve somewhere &quot;upstream&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be a back problem, but may also be something akin to piriformis syndrome where the muscles of the upper leg compress nerves feeding down the leg.  This is particularly likely if you've been hyper-exercising and are experiencing some degree of swelling of the upper leg muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to cut back substantially in your training and see a doc.  Kind of a toss-up as to whether it should be a neuro or an ortho -- I'd be slightly inclined towards the ortho, as he would be more familiar with disorders due to overtraining.  Or a &quot;sports medicine&quot; guy might be good, if you can see one relatively quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the numbness progresses much, or if there is any accompanying paralysis, it would become a medical emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T14:53:57.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3768" CreationDate="2012-06-25T19:59:50.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, you haven't said what type of bike and size of rim you're riding. 26&quot; tires will not fit on a bike with 700c wheels and vice versa. Also, if you're riding a road bike you probably won't be able to fit anything bigger than a 700x25 or 700x28 on it and you almost certainly won't be able to get anything with much tread on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, get the largest tire you can get on your frame. It'll slow you down a bit on the road, but it'll speed you up &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; on the rough patches and smooth out your ride as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the tread goes, I would look for something with a good number of large knobs on it that are fairly close together. Too much tread and you'll feel it on the road, too little and you'll be slipping around on the pitted and rocky patches. I don't have experience with this particular tire, but this is what I mean by large knobs that are fairly close together: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=hybrid+bicycle+tires&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&amp;amp;biw=1024&amp;amp;bih=655&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=7981081227657122988&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=gsLoT4WcN-Ps2gXlwOSJCw&amp;amp;ved=0CKoBEPMCMAk4Cg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=hybrid+bicycle+tires&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&amp;amp;biw=1024&amp;amp;bih=655&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;cid=7981081227657122988&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=gsLoT4WcN-Ps2gXlwOSJCw&amp;amp;ved=0CKoBEPMCMAk4Cg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T19:59:50.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10061" CreationDate="2012-06-26T01:07:44.107" Score="3" ViewCount="2011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden 90 KM (and at reasonable speeds - 30+ KM/h) without issues, but rode my first Gran Fondo (140 KM) and experienced various spasms while riding.  There were aid stations with food so I ate bananas - seemed to help, but the distance between stations was ~40 KM so I'd still get spasms...  The spasms were mostly quad/back of the leg - I only got a calf one once and it was much more brief than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone shed light on why I experienced these, and what I can do to prevent it in the future?  My hamstrings have always been short/tight, takes a while in Yoga/etc for them to loosen up.  The seat angle was tipped a little more back than I usually ride, didn't seem like a seat height issue...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T03:21:54.363" Title="Muscle spasms while riding?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;muscle-pain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10059" CreationDate="2012-06-26T01:56:06.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, this has to do with a combination of food intake, water intake, and sweating. From those, the one that varies the most between rides is sweating, due to climatic changes and clothing changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anytime you sweat a lot, the body loses electrolytes, and the hydroelectrolytic balance of the body is stressed. Then, depending on what you have eaten/drunk before the ride, and on what you eat and drink during the ride, you might experience these cramps even for normal distances and efforts. From my experience, eating/drinking LESS than you should is usually worse than eating/drinking more (provided that &quot;drinking&quot; excludes alcohol...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prevention of these might be normal hidration (pure water) if sweat volume is not excessive, and some isotonic fluid or fruit/fruit-juice if sweating is significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T01:56:06.087" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10059" CreationDate="2012-06-26T02:15:07.157" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons for muscle spasms/cramps, but they basically boil down to one of two causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sort of bogus nerve activation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The inability of the muscles to &quot;reset&quot; themselves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bogus nerve activation situation can occur because of some sort of nerve irritation, or due to one of several somewhat rare and rather serious medical conditions.  Given that the latter are unlikely, nerve irritation -- either in the spine or where the nerves pass through the piriformis muscle in the butt -- would be the possibility to be concerned with.  But if you had this you'd likely be complaining of &quot;electric&quot; sensations running down the leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So most likely the problem is with the muscles being unable to &quot;reset&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to understand how muscle cells work.  They do not need (new) energy to contract.  Rather, a muscle cell is like a stretched spring that's been propped into the stretched position -- it's ready to contract as soon as the &quot;prop&quot; is removed.  To remove the &quot;prop&quot; and allow the muscle to contract, the associated neuron causes calcium to be released into the muscle cells.  This triggers a cascade of chemical reactions and the muscle contracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To &quot;reset&quot; the muscle the calcium must be &quot;pumped&quot; out of the cells and energy (glucose converted to ATP) must be used to mechanically re-extend the muscle fiber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cramp occurs when something prevents this &quot;reset&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two likely causes of this inability to reset are a failure of the calcium &quot;pump&quot; and the simple absence of sufficient energy to do the reset.  This can be more than a simply unpleasant situation, since if a muscle cell is fully &quot;depolarized&quot; for long enough (more than a minute or so) it dies.  (Thankfully, this full depolarization occurs fairly rarely in healthy individuals, though it's not uncommon in football &quot;boot camps&quot; when run by clueless coaches.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several factors are involved in the calcium pump mechanism, but, in addition to glucose/ATP, the &quot;electrolytes&quot; sodium, potassium, and magnesium play important roles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There are also several genetic disorders such as myoadenylate deaminase deficiency and McArdle's Disease that can cause &quot;reset&quot; cramps in susceptible individuals.  And MADD is actually fairly common, affecting about one individual in 50.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically a shortage of glucose, sodium, or potassium can lead to failure to reset and associated cramping.  A shortage of glucose will generally affect a small portion of the muscle being most strenuously exercised, vs causing a cramp of an entire muscle group.  So if your cramp is widespread and not isolated to a small portion of muscle then it's probably due to electrolyte imbalance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, when major muscles are being exercised to the max and the body is running low on electrolytes, it will &quot;borrow&quot; them from muscles that are not being so vigorously exercised.  So you may experience, eg, cramps of the muscles along the inside of the legs, even though you're not exercising those muscles to any significant degree.  (But you might also experience cramps of the muscles you ARE exercising vigorously, depending on a number of factors.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A widespread cramp is thus generally a sign of a electrolyte imbalance, and ingesting more sodium, potassium, and/or magnesium is probably called for.  (The body has substantial stores of calcium in the bones, so a short-term deficiency of calcium is unlikely.  Plus, a localized shortage of calcium causes a sort of paralysis vs cramping.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that what you experience a day or two after the cramp gives some clue as to what happened.  With a simple cramp the affected muscles are apt to be sore the next day (and for maybe a day or two thereafter), just as if you had overworked them in the gym.  But if the pain takes 36-48 hours to appear (and the pain remains for weeks) it's likely some degree of rhabdomyolysis -- actual muscle injury due to depolarized muscle cells.  This would be a clue that you're doing something seriously wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-06-26T02:20:58.943" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T02:20:58.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10054" CreationDate="2012-06-26T02:25:29.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Daniel R Hicks has the right answer - I had an old bike with RX100 Brifters that stopped working. From what I know, disassembling any Brifter is best left to the experts and desperate. Although I was by far the latter, I had little choice as mine could not be pulled apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I ended up doing (after trying lube) is using WD40 and then in desperation, aerosol engine degrease (one of the few times you should let either of this stuff near you bike). It took a day of soaking, with a play every now and then, to get the shifters moving.  That was the easy part of the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After washing out with plenty of water, I had to deal to the problem that although things were moving like they should, there was no lubrication. WD40 might have worked for a day, Oil, chain lube etc a bit longer, but what is needed is grease. Fortunately there are aerosol based Grease products that have a thin carrier that are perfect for the job. I &quot;filled&quot; the brifter with aerosol grease and wiped off the excess. The idea too much grease is better than too little - I can clean grease out if needed, but can't put the metal back on the worn out bits.....  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result was a usable bike at little cost. The other option- new brifters..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, i would look at this approach if you can't find a way to pull them apart (and know for certain you will get them back together.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T02:25:29.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10056" CreationDate="2012-06-26T04:42:42.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct. You have answered your own question. A 30t cog is maximum for the Tiagra derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using anything larger risks damage to derailleur, derailleur hanger, rear wheel and your frame, since shifting into a cross chain position can tear your derailleur off the bike. At that point it usually ends up in your wheel, and jammed against the chain stays on your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T04:42:42.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10054" CreationDate="2012-06-26T08:18:37.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It took me 4 hours but I managed to disassemble the shifter and fix the problem. The cause was a broken spring inside the shifter. I replaced the spring, put it all back together and now its working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a rough description on how to disassemble the shifter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the brake cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the gear cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick a 5mm allen wrench under the rubber cover on the outside of the shifter. You'll find a screw there. Unscrew it and pull the shifter back to remove it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the brake cable pivot pin inside the shifter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pulling the brake will reveal the screws inside the shifter. Unscrew them one by one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point you should be able to remove the plastic housing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew the big screw at the center of the shifter (it is the screw that holds the whole cog/lever system together)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't make the same mistake as me and make sure to hold the shifter together while you undo the screw, otherwise the whole thing will explode into a lot of small cogs, springs etc on your floor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other people here said, the hard part is putting it back together so try to do your best to memorize where each thing goes as you take them off one by one. Also try the method described by mattnz first, if it works you'll be saved a lot of hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this will be of some help to somebody.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4367" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T08:18:37.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10059" CreationDate="2012-06-26T11:25:54.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your ride was 1.5 times longer than your regular trainings -maybe even in a race context- and you (however so slightly) changed your setup. This is a recipe for spasms or cramps in the active muscles. The muscles you use are not used to that kind of activity, so some protest is to be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent in the future: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;build up to the longer distance in smaller increments &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't change your setup. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are doing races, try to train with rides longer than the race you are training for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no scientific evidence that food/water/electrolyte intake beyond what your body requests (through hunger/thirst/fatigue) helps, but it is important to keep eating and drinking during rides to replenish the resources you use. Finally, there is some evidence that stretching the muscles you expect to spasm/cramp during the race but &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; they actually start to do so helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T11:25:54.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10018" CreationDate="2012-06-26T13:10:05.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue (taking cranks off, pulling / cleaning bottom bracket, replacing it only to find that the front derailleur didn't match up no matter how much I adjusted it in and out) - it turns out that the cranks weren't tightened fully, allowing / causing the chain ring to stick out slightly farther than tolerances allowed for. The solution was to crank it down using a torque wrench - find the torque specification for the crank bolts (mine was 40 ft/lbs amazingly) and crank them down. You'll be surprised at how much difference this can make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T13:10:05.030" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10071" CreationDate="2012-06-26T14:52:10.563" Score="1" ViewCount="1363" Body="&lt;p&gt;For bikes like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.herocycles.com/images/octane-recra.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;, why aren't the rear shocks (the shocks are directly above the pedal) vertical like those of a motorcycle? I don't see how the bike can take shocks when the shock absorber is at such a low angle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend said the mud-guard is so high because there's no other way to attach it to the cycle at a lower height. Is that really the reason why the mud-guard is so high?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4393" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T22:20:57.250" Title="Why are rear shocks at a 30 degree angle and the mud-guards so high?" Tags="&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10067" CreationDate="2012-06-26T15:04:39.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's above the rear wheel for vertical shocks to mount to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty clear from the provided picture that the fulcrum for the rear wheel is near the bottom bracket. An upward force against the rear wheel will cause it to lift, reducing the distance between it and the mount point of the shock, allowing the shock to resist that movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T15:04:39.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10077" CreationDate="2012-06-26T15:56:24.383" Score="28" ViewCount="9133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that when riding close to another cyclist, I expend less energy to go the same speed. But does the Conservation of Energy &quot;law&quot; mean that the lead cyclist is going to expend more energy to allow me to expend less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(i.e. Is there a physical reason to get angry at someone drafting behind you? Does riding in their slipstream cause drag for them?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4394" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T02:31:50.547" Title="Does drafting cause resistance to the lead rider?" Tags="&lt;drafting&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10069" CreationDate="2012-06-26T16:08:55.867" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason to get angry at a drafter is if they are not safe or if they don't take their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conservation Law: oversimplification, but in this case if there are no drafters, the extra energy to separate the airflow is just wasted as the turbulence collapses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastEditorUserId="263" LastEditDate="2012-06-27T14:22:41.987" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T14:22:41.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10067" CreationDate="2012-06-26T17:19:46.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding, one of the major features for bicycle suspension is vertical travel.  This is to increase pedal efficiency and rear wheel feel.  This is why you see engineers jump through hoops when designing rear suspension for bicycles.  For example, take a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.29eronline.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/side-view-pivot-convert.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pivot Mach 429&lt;/a&gt;.  If I count correctly, this bike has 5 points of rotation to accomplish beter pedal efficiency as well as offering more rear-wheel travel.  Some motorcycles do have non-vertical mounted suspension as well; the first to come to mind is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motosavvy.com/_ImageAreas/Kawasaki650R-3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kawasaki Ninja 650&lt;/a&gt;.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the &quot;mud-guard&quot;, that is often referred to as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesnobnyc.blogspot.com/search?q=filth%20prophylactic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;filth prophylactic&lt;/a&gt;.  This isn't intended to do much more than keep mud off your shirt and backside.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.media.cyclingnews.futurecdn.net/2011/02/26/2/cielo_sportif_full_view_600.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Full fenders&lt;/a&gt; can be quite difficult to mount to a full-suspension bike (everything keeps moving, man!) so filth prophylactics are common &quot;good enough&quot; equipment.  They also tend to have very little in frame requirements (full fenders require braze-ons for mounting them), so they fit on most any bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T17:19:46.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10067" CreationDate="2012-06-26T17:33:48.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fender or &quot;mud guard&quot; is so high because if it was much lower the tire would be banging into it whenever the shock compressed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T17:33:48.947" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10108" CreationDate="2012-06-26T17:37:14.720" Score="4" ViewCount="30031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a flat yesterday morning after a normal ride, walked my bike inside the house and propped it upside-down (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rowperfect.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Upside-down-bike.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;) overnight.  This morning, I changed the flat and put on some brand new tires I bought last week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I take it out for a ride, I find that the freewheel is nearly locked up!  I can forcibly move it by dragging on the pedals and bunching-up the chain, but it's not easy.  I've tried adjusting the tension on my quick-release, but that doesn't seem to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The freewheel on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/s27-al-comp-wheelset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SRAM S27&lt;/a&gt; has always been tight (to the point of putting some slack in the chain when back-pedaling), but now I can't even coast!  How did this happen, and what should I do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit - the next day:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made my adjustments on Tuesday morning as I said in the comments, but after only a 15 mile ride the freehub was completely tightened back up again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking into it a bit more carefully, I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/7qFTEPZ1BflbDW7bZss7TKs89MxWQC2zKYGt_-eHOVo/mtime:1301333941/sites/default/files/techdocs/sram_s30_s27_wheel_service_manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;service manual&lt;/a&gt; for my wheels with some nice pictures.  Here's what I adjusted on Tuesday morning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eH2eB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rear hub adjustment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apparently loosened the &quot;end cap&quot; from the threading on the axle.  Here's another pic of the whole assembly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFfBs.png&quot; alt=&quot;S27 rear hub assembly&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately because it tightened right back up that obviously wasn't a very robust solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1044" LastEditorUserId="1044" LastEditDate="2012-06-28T19:08:35.667" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T19:10:53.480" Title="How did my rear freewheel become incredibly tight overnight?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10046" CreationDate="2012-06-26T17:48:07.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine how it did it as I didn't think there would be enough clearance between calliper and rotor, but the actual problem now I have gotten around to pulling off the back wheel is that the mobile pad got thrown and hence no fluid leak just a missing pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@zenbike thanks for answer however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4383" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T17:48:07.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2012-06-26T18:53:44.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A local pittsburgh bike shop, Thick Bikes, put up instructions on how to DIY some cheap studded mountain bike tires and I thought it was really useful.  These are geared more for off-road mountain bike riding than on-road riding (with studs in the center of the tire), but you could easily just leave out the center screws.  They line tire with an old road tire to protect your tube from the butts of the screws/studs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just check out their blog here for the details: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thickbikes.com/blog/?tag=stud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://thickbikes.com/blog/?tag=stud&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T18:53:44.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10069" CreationDate="2012-06-26T22:40:22.667" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, on the contrary the lead rider also gets a boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason to be unhappy about someone drafting you is that they're too close to be able to react if there's a problem - if you go down they will run over you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I understand the boost is that a solo rider is effectively dragging around a volume of low pressure air - you push the air out of the way creating a high pressure volume in front of you, but that displaced air doesn't magically close in behind you, it flows out then flows back, creating a &quot;missing air&quot; volume behind you. If something fills in that space you don't get sucked back into it as much. There's a mention on wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chain_gang_%28cycling%29&quot;&gt;chain gang (riding)&lt;/a&gt; which links to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exploratorium.edu/cycling/aerodynamics2.html&quot;&gt;exploratorium article&lt;/a&gt; but not to a primary source that I can see. That explanation is common and makes sense, so I've never chased it further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevpVXelq8A&quot;&gt;a link to a wind tunnel video&lt;/a&gt; which shows that the lead rider receives a small benefit from having a drafter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T19:38:11.023" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T19:38:11.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2012-06-26T23:44:53.737" Score="14" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Headset&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The group of bearings and bearing cups that allows the steer tube to turn freely within the head tube. Headsets come in two basic varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Threaded headsets&lt;/strong&gt; are common on older bikes and inexpensive bikes. They are called &amp;quot;threaded&amp;quot; headsets because the top race is held on with a threaded race and locknut which thread onto a threaded portion of the steerer tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LiTbf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Threaded Headset&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Threadless headsets&lt;/strong&gt; are standard on modern mid-level and high-end bicycles. They are called &amp;quot;threadless&amp;quot; headsets because there are no threads on the race or steerer tube nor is there a lock ring. The headset is held together by pressure created by a bolt through the top cap which threads into a star nut inside the steerer tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5gdBd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Threadless Headset&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Images courtesy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T14:11:13.600" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-06-26T23:44:53.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10049" CreationDate="2012-06-27T04:39:22.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speedplay advises the use of dry silicone lubricants, but I found the expensive one I tried to be ineffective. The first time I tried the pedals I was quite surprised at the amount of force necessary to unclip, but I'm certain this was partially caused by the ineffective spray-on silicone lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I have used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedros.com/icewax.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pedro's Ice Wax&lt;/a&gt;, and it works well, as would any similar wax lube for your chain. However it also leaves quite a bit of build-up after a time, and necessitates some cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speedplay also advises that the pedals should be relubricated with grease from time to time. I bought some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/fortified-grease.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;grease&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/grease-pump.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;grease gun&lt;/a&gt; which I use for this purpose. A collateral benefit is that this grease also works pretty well for lubing the Speedplay cleats. The screws on the cleats will work loose over time, and sometimes you need to disassemble the cleat in order to tighten everything completely. I usually take that opportunity to put a little grease in the C- or U-shaped channel where the spring clip sits. A little of it oozes out and helps with clipping in and clipping out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be a little careful when wearing these cleats-- for example, I'm down at the beach quite a bit with my road bike but I &lt;b&gt;never&lt;/b&gt; walk on the sand-- as any lubricant you use can attract dirt, which can make it harder to clip in. But one accessory that every Speedplay user should have is &lt;a href=&quot;http://keeponkovers.com/Product.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these covers&lt;/a&gt;, which are pretty effective at keeping the cleats up and out of debris on the ground that might stick to lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you use your pedals you will find they wear a bit, and this also helps with the clipping in and out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T04:39:22.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1247" CreationDate="2012-06-27T04:39:24.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a set from baldies by driving screws through the knobs--advice on this is very common and I won't dwell on it here. I used mine all winter in the UP of Michigan (we get as much snow as Duluth and upstate NY). A few tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use hockey stick tape (NOT DUCT TAPE) as the first line of defense on top of screw heads inside the tire&lt;/strong&gt;. The easiest way to do this is to stretch it out 2 feet at a time and wear jeans to avoid annoying scratches while stuffing it inside. You will likely need to use multiple strips depending on the size of your tire (I recommend lefty, righty and a center strip).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use a blown-out tube as the second layer of protection&lt;/strong&gt;. Don't have any dead tubes? Don't worry, you will... My usual strategy for changing tires has me putting a few PSI in the tube and stuffing it into the tire while it is partially inflated and holds its shape--do this but &lt;strong&gt;tape the dead tube around the good tube with more hockey stick tape&lt;/strong&gt; (I have found that every other method I've attempted was awkward).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give the bike a good test ride after it has chilled to eliminate simple problems. Realize you will most likely have two flats after your first 4 mile ride (unless you're stupidly lucky, in which case just buy lottery tickets and real snow tires with the winnings). In all seriousness though, &lt;strong&gt;bring at least one spare tube and at least one spare tire on your first ride&lt;/strong&gt; in addition to a bike pump and something that can artificially reduce your frustration level (chocolate has worked in the past for me).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found the process of making winter tires to be quite &lt;em&gt;iterative&lt;/em&gt;. Keep this in mind as you tread forward (pardon the pun).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1618" LastEditorUserId="1618" LastEditDate="2012-07-03T20:56:28.317" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T20:56:28.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-27T06:15:22.357" Score="5" ViewCount="1302" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I glue circular pieces of some sort of uneven tiny metal heads, on every other knob of my mountain bike tyre, to bike in winter with snow and ice? If glue sounds too naive to some, there are some really professional hard to undo glues out there today, like those used in contruction work, that are super strong and anti-corrosion and sort of can be molded even and when dried they are like rock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4366" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-06-29T12:44:25.773" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T16:52:34.310" Title="Self-made studded tyre with glue?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;snow&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10118" CreationDate="2012-06-27T08:26:52.550" Score="14" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are situations when words cannot be used, e.g. during heavy wind or when someone is out of breath. Is there an universal hand signal to communicate a proposition of a chain gang behavior to fellow cyclist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1567" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T02:56:00.923" Title="How to nonverbaly signal a drafting proposition to fellow cyclist?" Tags="&lt;signals&gt;&lt;drafting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10088" CreationDate="2012-06-27T09:22:11.067" Score="30" ViewCount="16080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually signal &quot;turn left&quot; and &quot;turn right&quot; and &quot;pass me by, take point&quot;. However, there is one more situation that happens to me often and I do not know a widely accepted gesture to convey my thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I express that &quot;I am sorry.&quot; to a car driver near me (car driver == probably won't hear me, so a hand gesture is needed). As in &quot;I cut you off, sorry man!&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T13:24:45.430" Title="What is the hand gesture for &quot;I'm sorry&quot;?" Tags="&lt;signals&gt;&lt;city&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10083" CreationDate="2012-06-27T10:21:28.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer - there's no widely recognized hand gesture for &lt;em&gt;I'm sorry&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lifeprint.com/asl101/pages-signs/s/sorry.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Sign Language for sorry&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J6rbR.gif&quot; alt=&quot;ASL - sorry&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how likely it is that this will be understood by the other person though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T10:21:28.520" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10081" CreationDate="2012-06-27T10:31:36.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was in Hokkaido, Japan (Very cold, almost no snow removal) I saw a few guys that screwed screws through their knobs. It seemed to work pretty well. They protected the tube by putting Mr.Tuffy's in there as well. It might work better and last longer than glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastEditorUserId="4366" LastEditDate="2012-06-27T17:09:06.057" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T17:09:06.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10083" CreationDate="2012-06-27T10:34:29.640" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen and used a sheepish wave and a shoulder shrug or head bow, never had someone try to beat me up after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T10:34:29.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10073" CreationDate="2012-06-27T11:02:47.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have sealed bearings, my money will be on the cone nuts. The most common way to adjust them is with a flat wrench. The rear wheel is the most complicated, but it isn't that bad. Remove the wheel from the forks and loosen all the nuts on the left side, the side that doesn't have the gears. You only need to loosen them enough to expose the cone fully past the sprockets. Make sure to watch for the bearings falling out. The best way to do this is to place the axle on something hard to push the right cone up against the bearings as you loosen the left side, then flip the wheel over and push the left cone up. (Grease can act as glue to keep them all in there.) Tighten the locking nut against the right cone to the recommended torque. Now tighten the left cone down on the bearings. We are not going to get it perfect yet, just close enough to put the wheel back on the frame and tighten the right wheel nut. (If you have a quick release, take it off and use a wheel nut. If you can not find one anywhere, keep the wheel off the bike and use a 3rd wrench on the right side to keep the axle from rotating in this next procedure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are now going to adjust the left side. This is where you need judgment. You need to have the cone snug against the bearings but you also need to allow the wheel to spin freely. Spin the wheel and try to find that perfect sweet-spot for the cone. Once you find that perfect spot, keep the flat wrench exactly where it is and tighten the lock nut up against it. (This is where the wheel being on the bike comes in VERY handy. If the axle rotates, you will lose that sweet spot and your cone will either be too lose and cause damage to the axle or too lose and cause damage to the bearings and cup. Like I said, you can opt to use a 3rd wrench on the right side.) Now just tighten the left wheel nut and you are done!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front is almost the same except it doesn't matter which side you tighten down first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: You MUST have washers between the cones and lock-nuts or they will mesh together and act as one unit and loosen up very quick!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T11:02:47.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10083" CreationDate="2012-06-27T11:05:40.527" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a sort of wave, raising my hand but with no movement in it (so not a 'Hey buddy' or 'I need help' side to side movement).... it works on my bicycle, on my motorcycle, and while driving a vehicle. It's got somewhat of a dual purpose: acknowledgement that I did something wrong, and/or 'thanks for letting me in' gratitude gesture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motorcycle I find a very odd case of this. It's 95% not me giving the gesture, but receiving it after being cut off, not seen, turned in front of, etc. People are in general not interested in showing any rage and are quick to apologize when I'm on one, even if I'm not wearing the armored jacket and helmet. I don't get even half this respect in vehicles or bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was a side note that I've found interesting, but the point is that it's the same gesture I seem to get from many other people. There's no side/side or waving motion, just a hand up, fingers together, &quot;Thanks/Sorry&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T11:05:40.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10069" CreationDate="2012-06-27T11:20:53.213" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are close enough to get into their &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/Ls0Zyp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Slipstream&lt;/a&gt;, you can essentially kill their drag. This might feel like a boost because the wind that was previously pulling them back is now transferred to YOUR rear and not sucking on them anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of a bullet's slipstream (wake), where you can see the air sucking the bullet backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lK975.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no &quot;physical&quot; reason for someone to be mad that you are following so close behind them, in fact, the physics prove the reverse, unless they want that drag to help them train like how runners will use a parachute. Other than that, you might consider the stopping distance in an emergency, &quot;personal space&quot;, and swapping the lead as courtesy reasons for following or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T11:20:53.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10083" CreationDate="2012-06-27T12:14:55.380" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wave if I can but sometimes that's not possible because I'm controlling the bike. I always give them a look of apology and say &quot;sorry&quot; even though they can't hear me. I slightly exaggerate the look and the lip movements so that I can be sure that they see it. And most people can read lips well enough to pick up &quot;sorry&quot; even across an intersection. I usually get a wave back, so I know it works most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T12:14:55.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10081" CreationDate="2012-06-27T15:50:59.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have disc brakes you can use zip ties to create a cheap studded tire and can remove the zip ties when you're done. Get long enough zip ties to go around your tire and rim. Because of this, it will not work with rim based brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T15:50:59.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10081" CreationDate="2012-06-27T17:25:24.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am nearly certain the answer is no. Any metal or hard plastic will flex very little compared to the rubber of the tire, which flexes more than you think. There is no glue I have ever heard of or used, including the Gorilla glues and epoxies, that would ever hold these two together - it'd essentially have to be so strong that the rubber won't flex under your weight as you ride, and unless it's top secret I'd just sum it up to be: that doesn't exist and probably never will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd even go further and say even if you got them joined, it wouldn't be a very good or effective tire. If money's really that tight, look for used studded tires on craigslist or eBay - some will be half retail, at least, and may actually help your traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drilling, however, is not hard. You select a screw that protrudes from the lug by the amount you want (1/8&quot; or so for a bicycle would be appropriate), screw it in with a drill from the outside so there's a hole on the inside, then screw it through from the inside out. Then you need to line the inside with rim tape so that the screw heads don't pop your inner tube, but if you do this yourself, they probably will (there aren't enough tire/metal bands like a motorcycle/vehicle tire to keep the screws in place, they'll start pushing into the tube and eventually get through).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, neither option is good, or would do anything for your traction besides waste your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2012-06-27T17:37:02.110" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T17:37:02.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10083" CreationDate="2012-06-27T17:26:47.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about it, and considering that non-verbal, single-handed signal is preferred, I think that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touching your head with the fingertips, above and behind the ear;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shrugging the shoulders and;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raising the eyebrows;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In sort of a &quot;oops, what have I done! So sorry!&quot; attitude, might be very well interpreted/understood by drivers, and probably dissolve any aggressive behaviour (if any) on his/her part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T17:26:47.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-27T18:18:17.130" Score="4" ViewCount="1338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started riding more often now (big plus), and as a result am getting, ahem, saddle issues with my classic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/selle-san-marco-rolls-saddle-with-steel-rails/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;San Marco Rolls saddle&lt;/a&gt;. I'm an average build, 5' 8-9&quot;. The saddle issues are mainly chafing at the top of my legs, some more serious skin damage, and general soreness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard good things about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rido-cyclesaddles.com/new-rido-r-lt-pre-launch-info-c100130.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rido saddles&lt;/a&gt;. Specifically that they transfer the weight from the perineum to the assbones which are better built for weight distribution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are these saddles best and worst at? Are they good for particular types of riding, or riders with particular builds? Are they good for particular kinds of bikes? I ride a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.lfgss.com/thread79524.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Batavus Pro Team road bike&lt;/a&gt; circa 1990 which is about right size for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything specific to this saddle that has to be taken into account, position of saddle fore and aft, angle of saddle, or position of handle-bar stem, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastEditorUserId="2874" LastEditDate="2012-06-28T07:25:52.547" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T03:03:20.067" Title="What are the strengths and weaknesses of Rido saddles?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10096" CreationDate="2012-06-27T18:23:57.733" Score="4" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a separate wheelset for cylocross riding and road riding.  Would it be detrimental to the life of my cassette or hubs If I swapped the cassette between my road and off-road wheelset frequently? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T20:21:25.293" Title="Am I going to do any damage by swapping cassettes frequently?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10095" CreationDate="2012-06-27T20:21:25.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main hazard is that, with so much swapping, you will sooner or later cross-thread the cassette and ruin both cassette and hub.  There will also be additional wear on the threaded surfaces and on the spline, where you wrench it on and off.  The spline may eventually become too worn to allow removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a lot depends on the care you use -- if you get too casual in doing the swap you're apt to muck it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T20:21:25.293" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10083" CreationDate="2012-06-27T20:47:19.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Hawaii, it's common for drivers (and cyclists, I suppose) to use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaka_sign&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shaka&lt;/a&gt; to communicate an apology on the road:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0GHX9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shaka&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To folks who know about it, the sign carries the same range of positive meanings as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aloha&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aloha&lt;/a&gt; and should be taken as a friendly gesture.  While it doesn't specifically communicate apology, the sign is used as a relaxed greeting, which could diffuse a hostile situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the sign doesn't resemble any rude gestures.  As always, be sure to check with a local for the meaning of any hand signals used in an unfamiliar culture!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4405" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T20:47:19.130" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10002" CreationDate="2012-06-27T21:37:23.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Red-winged blackbirds are particularly spurned by the color red. (Self loathing?)  If you change everything except your red bike I'm afraid they'll always treat you as an avenging marauder.  So sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The birds will make contact on occassion.  Besides the good advice to always wear a helmet for safety it will also protect your head from the exceptionally brave dive-bombing bird. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I get a kick out of seeing their shadows flutter above the shadow of my profile while riding but I suppose it takes an amount of tolerance to get used to it.  I'm not a big fan of getting dive-bombed but as a trade-off I've never been bird pooped on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4407" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T21:37:23.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-27T22:54:50.457" Score="9" ViewCount="11112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding recently and kept hearing a noise similar to a rock stuck in a tread, but I have no tread.   When I got off and inspected the tire, I found these weird bubbles had formed.   I have replaced the tire (the bubble doesn't telegraph through to the inner wall), and the tube appeared just fine.   I can't figure out what caused this though.  I'd really like to know, so if it's something I'm doing, I can keep from doing that.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was my rear tire, and the tire only has about 1200 miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RJOvX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire Bubble&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1234" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T01:53:57.683" Title="How did bubbles form on my tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10099" CreationDate="2012-06-28T00:27:22.307" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest taking it back to the shop you got it from, as it looks like a manufacturing defect. Since the bubble isn't visible on the inside it's clear that the layers of cloth inside the tyre have separated, and that's not supposed to happen. You should be able to get a warranty replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has an explanation of how the tyre is made that may help you picture what's going on: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T00:27:22.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10081" CreationDate="2012-06-28T00:42:35.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem IMO will be that you need a glue that flexes with the rubber tyre. A rigid glue will just break off taking some of the rubber from the tyre with it. But given a flexible glue that bonds to the rubber and fills the space between tyre and metal object, I think it could work. I'm imagining something like the sealant glues that come in a sealant gun, rather than a cyanoacetate type super glue. The ones used to glue concrete together, for example, that have to fill gaps as well as adhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The metal bits will be more of a problem I think. You need a good area for the glue to stick to, but you also need sharp edges to grip the snow. So just attaching 10mm washers flat on the tyre probably won't help. I suspect you'll end up gluing screws across the tyre to more or less match the way the DIY screw tyres work. I suggest covering the screw with glue, then let the glue wear away from the outside when it hits the track. I'd be tempted to start by trying a few screws with each type of glue that I had available just to see whether any of them work at all. And whether you can ride the bike with this setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usual caveats apply: I haven't done this, I doubt it will work, but this seems to be to be the approach least unlikely to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T00:42:35.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10081" CreationDate="2012-06-28T02:29:48.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLKALIVUBUo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video here&lt;/a&gt; of a guy putting studs on ATV tires. They just screw into the tire knobs. I imagine this would be much harder on a bicycle (since the tread is much thinner and you have less room for error) but not impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would forget about adhesives - you need something that sticks to the tread with just mechanical friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T02:29:48.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10099" CreationDate="2012-06-28T05:34:13.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens commonly on vehicle/motorcycle tires, and for similar reasons. Non-bicycle tires use woven metal 'bands' that form the structure, with rubber molded around them. Bicycle tires use cloth/nylon/some other type of non-stretchy material with the rubber molded around it. You can usually feel them as the lines inside the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When bands break and/or separate, it allows air pressure to push out the now unsupported rubber around it out farther than normal. You may not even notice the inner part following, because they're not really one piece, more like two pieces of bread surrounding the meat (the bands). Further, they don't need to make both sections airtight, so usually just the outside is (even if you don't see holes, the rubber can be quite permeable (indeed it usually is to a small extent, even airtight ones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're asking what causes the breaking, it could be poor manufacturing, extreme flexing, folding, extreme heat, sitting flat on the bead for a while (or getting ridden on while flat), over-inflation, or any number of things that stress one section of the tire more than the rest of the structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T05:34:13.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10099" CreationDate="2012-06-28T11:35:23.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of 4 causes for the &quot;bubble&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somehow air pressure from inside the tire has worked its way through the inner cords and pushed out the outer tread.  But for this to happen the rim would have to be essentially airtight, and no rim is that tight unless designed for tubeless tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sort of gas created from within the tire collected in the bubble.  One might expect this on a fairly new tire, due to some manufacturing process problem, but an older tire (more than maybe 6 months old) should have &quot;outgassed&quot; everything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The defect is actually a bruise/rupture in the cord, allowing the tube's pressure to press out the tire.  But if this were the case the bulge would go away once the tube's pressure were removed, and there would be a soft spot inside the tire that you could feel with your fingers if you pressed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The defect is due to a bruise/rupture, but the bulge results from the ruptured cord &quot;bunching up&quot; under the tread.  One would expect such a defect to be less regular looking, though.  Additionally, the bulge would be hard when pressed, whereas the other cases would result in a bulge that could be compressed with your fingers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T11:35:23.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7610" CreationDate="2012-06-28T13:08:54.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use tubeless or tubeless-ready tires. Racers often convert standard-tube-type tires to tubeless using sealant for an ultralight setup, but it's not always reliable. Expect more flats, trouble seating and sealing, and lots of trial and error with conversions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4413" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T13:08:54.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10113" CreationDate="2012-06-28T14:25:58.970" Score="4" ViewCount="2210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done quite a few wheel rebuilds to make them stronger, but haven't built up a wheel around a PowerTap (SL+) yet. This will be for a training set for a fit triathlete. Raw weight is not an issue, but he's probably putting a few watts done for hours at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My inclination would be to do my &quot;standard&quot; rear wheel build, drive side X3 and non drive side Radial, but wonder if there are pros/cons to other lacings when power is involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T23:20:31.637" Title="What is preferred lacing for PowerTap wheel build?" Tags="&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10106" CreationDate="2012-06-28T16:55:09.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/power-wheel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown POWerwheel&lt;/a&gt; to a home-made recumbent I have (photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the idea seems a bit absurd (two leading spokes for each trailing spoke), it worked great for years without any issue, gave a very discrete visual (you only notice it is a powerwheel if you look close), and in the end it is possible that it actually MAKES a difference (at least it doesn't do any harm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMnva.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some conditions, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wheel needs to have number of spokes multiple of three (36, 24, etc.);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your client must &quot;buy&quot; the idea;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both of you cannot be overconservative about wheelbuilding...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T16:55:09.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10073" CreationDate="2012-06-28T19:10:53.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to put up another answer because while Daniel's hunch and Billy's excellent answer get at the gist of the solution, I did find some specifics that might help someone else (though perhaps only a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/s27-al-comp-wheelset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SRAM S27&lt;/a&gt; owner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/7qFTEPZ1BflbDW7bZss7TKs89MxWQC2zKYGt_-eHOVo/mtime:1301333941/sites/default/files/techdocs/sram_s30_s27_wheel_service_manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;service manual&lt;/a&gt; is pretty helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, the &quot;end cap&quot; was tighening on its own during rides.  Normally, this little set screw is supposed to keep the end cap from threading or un-threading (ie. you get the adjustment just right, apply the set screw, and it should all just stay put).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ubzx5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Adjustment set screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The set screw actually applies pressure to a rubber o-ring, which in turn presses against the threads on the axle to keep the end cap from turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my wheel, that o-ring had actually partially disintegrated where the set screw contacted it.  So instead of pressing a healthy o-ring against the threads, it just sort of mashed some rubber particulate in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; solution to this problem is probably to get a new o-ring.  The route I took, however, was to rotate the o-ring about 90&amp;deg; so the set screw was once again above a healthy bit of rubber.  I then re-adjusted the end cap tension and re-applied the set screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully that keeps me going for a while without tightening up again.  Thanks for all the help, everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1044" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T19:10:53.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-28T19:14:18.613" Score="0" ViewCount="3299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 Specialized S-Works Tarmac with Dura-Ace components and Mavic Ksyrium SL wheelset.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get a &quot;clacking&quot; noise coming from the drivetrain area only when pedaling forward.  I say &quot;clacking&quot; because it's not a click or creak noise.  It reminds me of the noise those acrylic Clacker toys from the 70s made when they hit, but obviously not that loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I backpedal the noise will go away temporarily.  I do notice if I backpedal, then pedal normally, the noise goes away; it will not typically return until I freewheel then pedal forward again.  The noise has been around for about 2 years on this bike and I have changed the following:  Cassette from 7800 to 7900 series, chain, 53T chainring and pedals from 7800 to 7900 series.  The issue is still there.  It happens in the small or large chainrings regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;clacking&quot; noise does not happen freewheeling at all only pedaling.  It does not correspond with wheel revolutions or even crank revolutions.  It's more of a loud clack immediately followed by a smaller clack happening about every 3/4 crank revolutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last time I took the bike in for a overhaul I told them about the noise that I &lt;em&gt;thought&lt;/em&gt; it was coming from the bottom bracket that I wanted that rebuilt.  Once I got the bike back the clacking was gone for about a week, then returned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help on what to look for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4419" LastEditorUserId="4419" LastEditDate="2012-06-28T19:56:35.567" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T11:49:11.193" Title="&quot;Clacking&quot; noise coming from drivetrain" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10082" CreationDate="2012-06-28T19:36:17.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an easy recipe that I've seen used in a number of casual riding situations with anonymous cyclists:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should take the first pull, so pass the rider on the left.  Make sure you're going slow enough that she can actually hitch a ride without a massive sprint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When your rear wheel is passing her front wheel (ie. about the time she can see you without having to turn her head), &lt;strong&gt;pat your upper butt/hip a couple of times on her side&lt;/strong&gt;.  This should be a friendly &quot;come here&quot; gesture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When it's safe to do so, pull in front of her.  You may also consider slowing down slightly to further communicate that you aren't interested in blowing by her.  (But don't slow down so much that she'll just have to pass you again!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once it looks like she's on, slowly and evenly accelerate up to your desired pace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that some people aren't comfortable drafting and that others may not even understand the concept, so of course this won't always work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1044" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T19:36:17.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10067" CreationDate="2012-06-28T22:20:57.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear wheel is attached to stays that connect to a pivot point. As long as when the rear wheel moves upwards, the wheel and stays all rotate around the pivot to compress (or stretch, depending on shock type) the shock, then the rear suspension should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this bike, the shock is vertical. But, unlike the picture you showed, there are a number of pivot points. The bike you showed has a single pivot near the crank and pedal area. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dirtragmag.com/sites/default/files/blogarific/wp-content/uploads/2007/06/trek-fuel-ex-full.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dirtragmag.com/sites/default/files/blogarific/wp-content/uploads/2007/06/trek-fuel-ex-full.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mudguard is high so that the wheel doesn't hit it and to ensure there is plenty of mud clearance. Most mountain bikers I know don't bother with mudguards, because the faff of them is annoying (it's not because of lack of mud, I'm in the UK and it can get pretty muddy at times). So, they're usually not fitted to mountain bikes as standards. That means, this one has to be fitted to the seat tube, and it doesn't move with the wheel as it takes up shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T22:20:57.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10106" CreationDate="2012-06-28T23:20:31.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleops.com/en/faqs.html&quot;&gt;FAQ on their website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: PowerTap hubs must be laced with a minimum 2 cross pattern to avoid damage to the hub and maintain the warranty.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That suggests that making the non-drive side radial could lead to warranty issues. Radial lacing does stress the flange more than tangential lacing so many hub manufacturers do not allow it. To work on a driven wheel it also needs a certain amount of torsional flexibility in the hub which large-flange solid hubs don't have (Rohloff, PowerTap for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go with a ye olde traditional 3x lacing, and lean more towards 2x and bladed spokes than other options if the rider wants to spend more money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T23:20:31.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10109" CreationDate="2012-06-29T04:33:23.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the chainring bolts are loose.  This would allow the chain rings to shift slightly when under load, which creates a clicking or clacking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tighten them, you'll want a 5mm allen wrench for the bolts and a large flat-head screwdriver (or a tool specifically designed for chainring nuts, like the one from Park) for the nuts.  The allen wrench approaches the bolts from the drive side of the bike and the screwdriver approaches from the non-drive side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't say which edition of Dura-Ace is installed on your bike.  The 7900 edition uses Torx chainring bolts (in the T30 size) instead of 5mm allen bolts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T04:33:23.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10109" CreationDate="2012-06-29T09:11:13.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem until recently, initially thought it may be the BB, but after cleaning, greasing, and eventually replacing the problem was still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out it was the freewheel hub on the wheel, and fairly quick to fix, if that is your problem, open up the freewheel hub, I needed 2 5mm allen keys for this, but various wheels have different methods of opening up.  Don't force anything, these are easy to destroy, and expensive to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the freewheel open, make sure that the little pins stay in place, most new hubs will have springs keeping them in place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apply grease, I used the Park Tool one (personal preference), and close everything up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T09:11:13.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10109" CreationDate="2012-06-29T09:46:36.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may sound ridiculous but grease the seat post. I had a similar problem on my mtb solved it by greasing the seatpost, only the portion remaining inside the frame ofcourse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before using grease, things I tried include,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tightening the bottom bracket and the crankset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replacing pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replacing the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and none of them worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4423" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T09:46:36.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10109" CreationDate="2012-06-29T11:49:11.193" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys!  I was able to put the bike on a trainer to at least give it some loading while I rotated the drivetrain.  The clacking noise, while faint in this set-up, was definitely coming from the rear cassette, freewheel, hub area.  I could even feel a slight vibration on the seatstay and chainstay as I pedaled by hand.  I did tighten the hardware associated with the hanger and derailleur figuring that may help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading the responses, I think I will take Baldy's advice above and take a closer look at the freewheel assembly.  There is either some lubrication or wear issues that may be causing this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4424" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T11:49:11.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10082" CreationDate="2012-06-29T12:33:42.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer to come ahead of the other person and once I'm far enough in front of them that they can see me (but still not completely ahead of them) I'll point at my rear wheel with my right hand (i.e., the hand that's closest to the other rider). Usually they'll either pull forward (&quot;no thanks - I'll keep pulling&quot;) or drop back slightly (&quot;thank god - what took you so long?&quot;). On the few times when there's been confusion I've found that they'll usually pull around you if they didn't want to draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T12:33:42.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10120" CreationDate="2012-06-29T14:46:35.340" Score="2" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a helmet and handbar moutable camera made by a firm called storage options.  The instructions do not explain how to fit the strap for helmet attachment.  It consists of a ring of elastic with a further piece of elastic attached at right angles to the ring to form a half circle above the ring.  The camera mount is at the T where this extra piece attaches to the ring, and is oriented in the same direction as the extra piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the strap.  I think that the camera is supposed to be inserted in an upwards direction into the area above the buckle on the lower strap (although this doesn't seem like a secure mount).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0pdiF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the camera in situ on a helmet.  As you can see it's not entirely clear how the straps are arranged from this photo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r9whn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to fit this to my helmet (which has a sun visor and to the best of my knowledge is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giro.com/us_en/products/men/road/venti.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Giro Venti&lt;/a&gt;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4427" LastEditorUserId="4427" LastEditDate="2012-06-29T17:03:13.920" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T07:25:50.177" Title="How to fit a Storage Options bike cam helmet mount" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10119" CreationDate="2012-06-29T16:33:48.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's designed so the bit at the top of the picture wraps around the helmet like a headband while the part of the strap that is making a &quot;U&quot; in the picture goes across the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep it from coming off, you'll need it to be fairly tight. This is okay with the helmets that are similar to skateboarding/snowboarding helmets (hard shell), but can make some of the more pricey (lighter) bike helmets lose integrity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't going hard down single track, this will probably be okay, but be ready for it to slip off if you are doing anything that rocks the boat much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T16:33:48.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10122" CreationDate="2012-06-29T17:40:31.453" Score="4" ViewCount="1044" Body="&lt;p&gt;The metal bead on my tire seems to have come out of the fabric in one spot, and so the tire no longer stays in the rim. Is it possible to fix this, or do I need to get a new tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4116" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T10:36:01.277" Title="Bead Separated from Fabric" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10121" CreationDate="2012-06-29T18:07:31.023" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, if the bead is popping out, you're going to need a new tire. Your tube could have a blow out through the gap. You may want to inspect your brakes and make sure they were not rubbing on the tire.  This could be causing pre-mature wear around the edge of the tire near the bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T18:07:31.023" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10126" CreationDate="2012-06-30T16:05:25.303" Score="2" ViewCount="742" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many tandems have a front bottom bracket that looks like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yIJ2k.gif&quot; alt=&quot;pinch bolts:&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front bottom bracket is mounted off-centre in an aluminum shell called &quot;the eccentric.&quot;  When the pinch bolts shown in the picture are loosened, the eccentric can rotate within the bottom bracket shell to tighten or loosen the tandem's timing chain (that joins the front and rear cranks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pinch bolts broke, or if the braze-ons they fit into sheered off, would the bottom bracket shell pop open?  It seems to me that the integrity of the bottom bracket shell is totally dependent on the bolts; that you'd bend the frame quite badly if they broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T20:35:00.390" Title="Can a tandem's front bottom bracket fail catastrophically?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7610" CreationDate="2012-06-30T16:50:59.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you surely can use standard tyres with tubeless rims. I do so and it's ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can expirience some problems &lt;em&gt;(from my own experience and what I saw)&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you already wrote, you cannot run on (very) low pressure;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get a &quot;snake bite&quot; puncture relatively easy because of thin sidewalls (from my own experience - low pressure, hit a curbstone, get a puncture). However, the sealant solves this problem pretty good;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you turn fast enough at high speed on plain surface, tire can possibly slip off rim (seen that, never happened to myself);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard tyre with any sealant looses air faster than UST. &lt;em&gt;(Not a problem. Problem is that sometimes I forget to check for pressure before a ride.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relatively high pressure (30+ psi) fixes most of this potential problems. And full suspension bikes have less possibility to get a puncture if you are riding trails, forest, etc. So you get more advantages, than disadvantages, from using tubeless rims with standard tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's still a good idea to have a spare tube and pump in your backpack, because you can get a bigger puncture or even cut and sealant will be useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T16:50:59.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10123" CreationDate="2012-06-30T19:21:37.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, in order for there to be any sort of a &quot;crisis&quot;, both bolts would have to fail, an unlikely possibility on a reasonably well-maintained bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, beyond that, the integrity of the frame doesn't depend on the BB shell resisting twisting loads.  Rather, due to the &quot;truss&quot; nature of the standard bike frame (tandem or not), the load on the shell is almost totally &quot;radial&quot; -- force into or away from the shell.  While this force would tend to &quot;pry&quot; the shell open, it's very unlikely to be substantial enough to cause catastrophic failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T19:21:37.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10123" CreationDate="2012-06-30T20:19:59.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the photo, it is possible to notice that the lower part of the front downtube, and the lower part of the bottom bracket boom tube (the one connecting both bottom brackets) surround the eccentric at an angle quite larger than 180 degrees. The following exagerated ilustrations shows it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXWxV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means, even if both bolts brake (If one breaks, the sudden load increase could indeed cause the second one to break), most probably the bottom bracket tube wouldn't fully open, and the eccentric wouldn't pop out, because the said tubes would avoid it, or at least avoid it enough that the rider would notice the abnormal behaviour and safely stop the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-06-30T20:35:00.390" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T20:35:00.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5806" CreationDate="2012-06-30T21:53:22.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above, breathability can be a problem in the UK, and when you're honking up a hill in warm, wet air nothing is going to breath very well. Pit zips are a key feature on a jacket - winter or otherwise - and will increase a garment's versatility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4178" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T21:53:22.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10094" CreationDate="2012-07-01T00:20:53.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I think a Rido is worth trying in your situation. Of course, make sure your bike fits you properly, saddle height and tilt are properly adjusted, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found my Rido saddle to be good for riding with padded shorts, but not so comfortable with street clothes. The saddles seem to be designed for moderate distance riding in a sporty position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2763688167/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YnJbL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the only way to tell if this saddle will work for you will be to try it, but I think that a saddle like the one I had (see the picture) may work for you. When I rode the pictured bike for rides of half an hour to 45 minutes, the Rido took care of my chafing issues (the same as the ones you're having), since the saddle's nose is fairly narrow. When I replaced that bike with a Bike Friday and a Brooks, I replaced the Rido with the original saddle and turned this bike into a city pootling bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T00:20:53.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10130" CreationDate="2012-07-01T02:15:22.623" Score="4" ViewCount="8110" Body="&lt;p&gt;As shown in the photo, what tool do I need to take this rear hub apart? I assume I need a tool which will fit in the 4 notches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I am trying to fix is that if you pedal, the rear cog spins but does not turn the rear wheel. Any pointers on that would be appreciated. I guess I will find out the problem when i see inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gnQoe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorUserId="1547" LastEditDate="2012-07-01T22:22:51.047" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T22:22:51.047" Title="How to take apart this rear BMX hub?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10129" CreationDate="2012-07-01T02:27:26.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need a freewheel removal tool like the Park FR-6&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-FR-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-FR-6&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can attach that to the freewheel and then use a wrench to remove the freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T02:27:26.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10129" CreationDate="2012-07-01T03:18:43.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To follow up on Tha Riddla's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your freewheel is freewheeling in both directions, in all likelihood it is gummed up inside and the pawls are stuck open. (As a small note: the freewheel is separate from the hub and contains bearings, pawls, springs, and some lubricant.) You can either try to overhaul the freewheel or purchase a new one (they range from relatively inexpensive to bank-breaking). To replace the freewheel, you can either buy a freewheel remover or take it to a shop and ask them to replace it (the whole procedure should take 15 minutes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some freewheels are difficult to crack open, so the simplest (and cost effective) overhaul would be to drip a medium-weight oil onto the seam where the cogs and freewheel body meet. Be sure to thoroughly wipe off the area with a clean rag before you start. You can do this WITHOUT removing the freewheel and you should hear a difference immediately. Put the wheel over a rag and continue dripping oil and spinning the freewheel until clean oil comes out of the back side of the freewheel. This should loosen up the pawls and clear out the gunk inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T03:18:43.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10134" CreationDate="2012-07-01T22:25:17.003" Score="2" ViewCount="7606" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My previous question was: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10129/how-to-take-apart-this-rear-bmx-hub&quot;&gt;How to take apart this rear BMX hub?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I determine the size of my freewheel to replace it?&#xA;I have seen on bicycle sites that a freewheel comes in sizes like 14t, 16t, 17t, 18t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of my freewheel. It does not have any markings or inscriptions. The freewheel diameter of the ring, not the cog teeth is 55mm.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6E3Hg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T07:01:35.513" Title="How to determine size of freewheel?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10133" CreationDate="2012-07-01T23:03:59.717" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;the 14t, 15t, etc. is the number of teeth. You currently have a 16 tooth or 16t freewheel. More teeth and the easier to spin, but the slower it spins. Think of teeth on the rear cog as inverse to ease...lower numbers take more power to move; higher numbers take relatively less power. You want to find a good mix that allows you to make it up whatever hills you have while still not requiring a super high cadence for the flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T23:03:59.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10135" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-02T04:11:48.980" Score="3" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding my new Scott road bike yesterday and I nearly took a terrible fall.  The pavement was wet and there was a curve.  I was riding approximately 15 mph and I braked with the rear brake.  As I applied the brake the rear tire nearly spun out from under the bike.  Do you know what I did wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4438" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T16:32:59.200" Title="Why do you think I nearly fell on this turn?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10135" CreationDate="2012-07-02T05:22:21.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you either did not notice a slippery section of the path, or braked too sharply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you done the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreaction.com/roadbiketestrides.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;usual tests on a new bike&lt;/a&gt; which also allow you to become accustomed to how the bike handles, or were you hoping to gain that knowledge experientially without falling? My suspicion is you are still not comfortable on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get on a new bike it's always a good idea to first test the brakes before you move, then once you're moving apply the brakes gently, then more firmly. Then speed up to walking pace and do an emergency stop. Do this somewhere very safe, possibly even in your living room. The goal is to break anything that's going to break easily, and detect problems like improperly fitted or insufficiently tightened cable fasteners. Then move out to an open area and do a series of turns and accellerations of increasing enthusiasm as you gain confidence and skill on the bike. You want this all to be done in a place where an equipment or technique failure will be embarrassing rather than fatal, like a car park or playground. Bike mechanics generally do this for every bike they service, calling it a test ride (excluding bikes that are returned unridden, possibly unrepaired, as they're judged unsafe or unrepairable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm buying a bike or testing for a friend I always take these tests to the point of locking up wheels. If you're not comfortable locking up your front wheel don't do that, bust you definitely should be able to deal easily with a rear wheel lockup under controlled conditions. Test the front brake to the point of lifting the rear wheel. Again, IMO a competant should be able to deal with that situation. And any bike must be able to deal with both of those situations without failing. Not, however, a rear wheel slide-out leading to a highside dismount - that will generally deform the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T05:22:21.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10139" CreationDate="2012-07-02T05:32:15.013" Score="10" ViewCount="7473" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are questions telling me what to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5209/looking-for-a-first-race-worthy-road-bike-what-should-i-look-for&quot;&gt;look for in a new bike&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3729/how-do-i-evaluate-the-quality-of-a-road-bike&quot;&gt;a second hand one&lt;/a&gt;, and things to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2795/a-test-ride-for-a-new-bicycle&quot;&gt;look for during my test ride&lt;/a&gt;, but nothing about what I should actually do during my test ride. That last question has been updated to say &quot;What should I actually do on the test drive?&quot; but the answers don't really address that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume I need to make sure the brakes and gears etc all work, but how do I do that? Just change into each gear, or do so while pedaling hard? Should that even work? Is braking hard enough to lift the rear wheel a legitimate test? Is it reasonable to (say) ride each bike round the same 10 minute circuit as fast as I can to see which ones feel best at speed (assume I'm buying a fast road bike)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do for a 5-10 minute test ride on each bike I look at? What about a quick 30 seconds in a car park if that's all I can get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T11:26:07.003" Title="How do I test ride a bike that I'm looking at buying?" Tags="&lt;evaluation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10138" CreationDate="2012-07-02T06:38:31.443" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;30 seconds in the parking lot: Do you feel comfortable on the bike. Does it fit you (and not completely just &quot;bike fit&quot;...do you like it...dig it...get it). That's what I would spend the first thirty seconds on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Medium ride: How does it respond and do you like that response. I personally like my road bikes to be a bit &quot;quick and twitchy&quot; but I know a lot of folks that feel like the bike is going to do something on it's own...they want a bike that is a bit more relaxed. Several factors go into this, geometry, materials, components, etc, so best way to see if it matches what you want is to ride it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer Ride: Start with mellow flat if you can to just get a feel for the bike and to warm up a bit. Then pick things up, but this is a test ride, not a race, go 70-80% but keep a bit in reserve...you don't know this bike completely yet. How does it react when you really put some power to the cranks? Do you like how it handles in a bit of a descent? How does it feel in a climb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also check the brakes, drivetrain, etc...but this would actually be lower on my list. The &quot;check the gears and the brakes&quot;, for me, is more about safety...if it doesn't shift well and has at least minimally okay components, I (or my LBS) can get it shifting nicely. Same idea with the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a used bike you'll want to do a safety check BEFORE a test ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck on finding the perfect bike...Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T06:38:31.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10146" CreationDate="2012-07-02T08:42:05.870" Score="0" ViewCount="9442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a bike as primary transportation in the South Bay area.&#xA;My commute is 5 mi, I like to do overnight trips on weekends and use&#xA;the bike for shopping, which will involve occasional trips not longer than 30 mi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget is $1500, but I would not mind to spend less in order not to worry&#xA;too much about theft and maybe even get a second bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to a lot of bike shops, but they seem to be geared&#xA;more towards racing or mtb, very few bikes even had rack mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current favorite is the Novara Randonee 2012&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/816068/novara-randonee-bike-2012&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/816068/novara-randonee-bike-2012&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;but I am not 100% sure it is the right bike for my purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concerns with the Randonee are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Main concern: Bar End Shifters. I've never had bar ends, but I have the feeling that they&#xA;are unsuitable for traffic. I have to go through a few streets with heavy&#xA;traffic I don't feel too comfortable in, even without taking my hands off the&#xA;brakes. I like integrated shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Minor concern: The Randonee is not overweight (29 lbs), but a bit too heavily built for my&#xA;purpose. I won't do any tours of more than a few days, most of my use will be running errands and doing tours (not races) with friends who have mostly cross or road bikes. I don't want to be the slowest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these proper concerns? Did I overlook anything? Does one get used to the bar ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other bikes I looked at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Novara Verita, $1200: Goes in the right direction, but sitting was uncomfortable&#xA;compared to Randonee, and they weren't able to identify the problem in the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Fuji Cross 3.0, $800:&#xA;400318&quot;&gt;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1094122_-1_400318&#xA;I have doubts about the canti brakes, especially when wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Salsa Vaya 2, $1700: BB5 disc brakes probably better than brakes on Randonee, far too expensive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Fantom Outlaw, $999:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/outlaw.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/outlaw.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Cheaper version of salsa, but bad idea to buy without trying it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, these four only have double cranksets with a lowest ratio of 36:32, I am not&#xA;sure this is low enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes I read about but that I didn't see in any shop: Specialized Secteur,&#xA;Surly LHT, Trek, Surly Cross Check &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other bikes I should look at that &#xA;-take a rack and fenders&#xA;-have reliable brakes for all weather use in traffic&#xA;-preferably have integrated shifters&#xA;-low enough gear &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4441" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-07-02T13:42:48.577" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T14:42:59.887" Title="Fast touring bike / Roadbike with touring capabilities" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-04-19T20:53:26.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10138" CreationDate="2012-07-02T11:26:07.003" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you spending $5000 on a new bike, or $50 on a used one?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When purchasing an expensive new bike you should take about a 15-minute ride, trying it out on curves through side streets, going over bumps and tracks, etc.  Test its stability, responsiveness, and comfort, based on your standards.  And, of course, check its fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the cheap used bike you ride it for 3-5 minutes or so -- long enough to be sure it fits OK and long enough to verify that the shifters and brakes are OK (or will be, once tuned up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you're trying out multiple bikes you'd cut the 15-minute ride down a bit, but then come back to the bike you've settled on for another, longer ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T11:26:07.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10148" CreationDate="2012-07-02T11:34:16.537" Score="4" ViewCount="1317" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a tourer with a butterfly bar mounted with the near flats rising.  This puts the far flats rising towards the outside of my wrists.  I have, however, seen butterfly bars mounted so that compared to the stem the near flats drop.  This would put my far flats falling towards the outside of my wrists (a position I suspect I may like better.  But I'm having difficulty finding comparative evaluations of mounting butterfly bars in these manners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mounted rising: &lt;a href=&quot;http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/74/22/55522274/photos/velocelestes-R20/R20top.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/74/22/55522274/photos/velocelestes-R20/R20top.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mounted dropping: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/images/flatandtrek.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/images/flatandtrek.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T15:05:43.580" Title="What advantages are there in mounting a butterfly bar with a drop instead of a rise?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10167" CreationDate="2012-07-02T14:05:31.647" Score="4" ViewCount="3743" Body="&lt;p&gt;Later this summer, I intend to make a ten-day travel. It is going to be mainly road touring with one-two-tree days of sloped dirt roads or forest trails possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually pack heavily, carrying a 60 litre pack, that I will probably fill up for this journey (tent, sleeping bag, beer will be restocked continuously). Both the backpack and bags have rain covers. However, my concern is that putting around 10 kg(22 lb), maybe 15kg(33 lb) directly over my rear wheel will ruin the rim at the first hole I bump.  Which should I choose : the backpack or the system of rear rack mounted bags system? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Znewp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VnXyA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/czMUN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2446/why-do-cyclists-prefer-messenger-bags-over-backpacks&quot;&gt;Why do cyclists prefer messenger bags over backpacks?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1347/gary-fisher-kaitai-suffers-from-handlebar-wobble-at-moderate-speed-with-10lbs-on&quot;&gt;Gary Fisher Kaitai suffers from handlebar wobble at moderate speed with 10lbs on rear rack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T16:11:15.503" Title="Are bicycle rear racks and panniers suitable for cross-country riding?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;trails&gt;&lt;bags&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10147" CreationDate="2012-07-02T14:25:50.953" Score="1" ViewCount="4875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to REI yesterday because my bottom bracket was creaking.  I brought my bike with me so I could get the right tools to take it off, but while I was there the mechanic actually took the crankshaft apart, cleaned, and lubed everything for me (I guess it was a slow day).  He also checked my chain with a little gauge and said that it's more than 100% worn.  He said that it is so worn out that my back set of sprockets could be damaged from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic said that I should replace my chain every 2000 miles.  I have been using my current one for about 3000.  Is 2000 miles a good distance to replace a chain?  (I've never had this problem on my mountain bike.  I always replace the chain every summer because of rusting.  I didn't even know that it could actually wear itself out.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went home and ordered &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/120938772313?ssPageName=STRK%3aMEWNX%3aIT&amp;amp;_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3248wt_1150&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this chain&lt;/a&gt; on eBay.  If I put it on my bike and my sprockets are indeed worn out will it wear out my new chain quickly?  How will I know if I should replace the back COG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: The chain I ordered has a Titanium coating, does that mean it will last longer than a &quot;normal&quot; chain, or is it just advertising?  KMC says it can last &quot;up to&quot; 10k miles, is that true?  Does anyone have any opinions of KMC chains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this is my first road bike, and I don't know too much about them.  I got it for my birthday for commuting to school (and work in the summer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastEditorUserId="4446" LastEditDate="2012-07-02T14:44:08.010" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T14:56:39.873" Title="Using a new chain on worn out sprocket?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2012-07-02T14:31:34.073" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few reasons I prefer a messenger bag or backpack over panniers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bag on your back is easy to carry around off your bike. If you're using a bike as your primary mode of transportation and making multiple stops, it can be inconvenient to secure your panniers without detaching them and carrying them. I can get off my bike and go to a concert or other social event while still wearing my messenger bag, it kind of sucks hauling around a pannier off the bike. (I've had pretty good luck with a convertible pannier / backpack though).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Security is easy with a messenger bag.  It's always on you, so you don't have to worry about locking it up with your bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accessability is easier. I can swing my bag around to the front and grab things out of it easily.  I might need to get off my bike to access my panniers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a platform for lights. I have a rear blinky and front flasher on my bag. When I switch bikes, I don't have to worry about switching my lights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Panniers affect bike handling.  I find that your bike itself can be a bit less responsive when it's loaded.  It's harder to 'throw it around' and do quick acceleration when the bags are rack mounted.  I find that even with a pretty full messenger bag, I can still mash the pedals, cut hard turns, make 'twitchy' moves &amp;amp; turns, it's easier to bunny hop, and I can skid stop on a fixed gear easier without things on my frame.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No pedal strike issues, pannier's dragging when cutting turns hard, or issues with knocking panniers in to bollards &amp;amp; posts on trails.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are definitely places where panniers excel over messenger bags.  Especially if you're not dealing with a lot of urban riding, doing long tours, or carrying a lot of weight.  Neither is better all the time, it all depends on your needs and riding style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="1459" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T22:41:32.213" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T22:41:32.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10140" CreationDate="2012-07-02T14:55:57.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Surly Pacer is a good choice. My first real bike was a one, and I used it for commuting, training rides, and a two-week tour in Europe. Even though it wasn't &quot;ideal&quot; for training rides or touring, it worked great for me until I was able to afford more specialized bikes. The Pacer doesn't come with as many rack bosses as you'll want (one advantage of the cross-check), but p-clamps did the trick for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, about your individual concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bar-end shifters are great for touring bikes&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they are perfectly fine for traffic, you get used to them faster than you think&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they are waaaay less prone to malfunctioning, which brifters are legendary for&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30lb isn't really that big a deal for a do-everything bike&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the extra 5lb is nothing compared to the weight of the rider and touring equipment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steel is probably the best choice for this type of bike regardless&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's easier / cheaper to upgrade the engine instead of the bike :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T14:55:57.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10144" CreationDate="2012-07-02T14:56:39.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your chain was measured and is worn, then by all means replace it.  You are going to cause more wear to your bike using a worn chain than having slightly worn sprockets.  A worn chain causes uneven wear on the teeth of your chainrings and cassette cogs, eventually this can cause issues with shifting and 'chain suck'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new chain you selected looks good. Before you install it, please clean off any grease and grime from your front chainrings and cassettes.  It should be good without re-lubing for a couple hundred miles with the factory lube, after that you should make sure that you keep it clean and lubed regularly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The life of your chain is proportional to how you maintain it, a good chain poorly maintained will last a couple thousand, well maintained I don't doubt it could last 10k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info on chains: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T14:56:39.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10142" CreationDate="2012-07-02T15:05:43.580" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing you can be absolutely sure is: despite handlebars are designed to work some pre-defined way, there is nothing wrong about using them in a very different or even opposite way if that's what suits you best. The only two pre-conditions to do it is that you actually know what you want, and you actually know the practical, subjective pros and cons of each position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were in your situation, I would choose the best position given my current stem. If that didn't work, I would perhaps swap the stem for another one that puts the handlebar in a better position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice, also, that each image you posted places the brake levers in different zones, and that is a &quot;design parameter&quot; which you should consider. Most probably you'll benefit from having the levers in the position you stay most the time, so that they are within reach in case of an emergency stop being needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T15:05:43.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10135" CreationDate="2012-07-02T15:28:50.390" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You braked too hard given the road conditions, plain and simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The road was wet, which decreases your traction. You hit the brake, which uses the tire's traction on the road to slow the bike. If pressed too hard, the rear wheel will lock up and skid, which can be disastrous in a corner — the rear wheel will continue to follow its outward momentum. 15mph may not seem fast, but that particular corner may have been especially dangerous for any number of reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wet leaves are notorious for being slippery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;automotive oil collects on the road if it hasn't rained in awhile, or if there's poor drainage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there was a dip in the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the road may have been off-camber (the road slopes down toward the outside of the turn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid accidents in the future, the first thing you should do is properly learn to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html&quot;&gt;use your front brake&lt;/a&gt;. The front wheel will not skid under reasonable cycling conditions. Other than that, you'll over time develop a sixth sense of how safe the road conditions are. Just pay attention to the corners and watch out for dips, debris, puddles, and the camber of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T15:28:50.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10135" CreationDate="2012-07-02T16:06:37.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many reasons as to why you may have fallen.  But I think the largest factor is that when using only back brake you don't have very much stopping power because the bike is accelerating backwards so there is a force pushing you forward.  (This is like gravity pulling us down, but it feels like the ground is pushing us up.)  This causes you to have little traction on your back wheel, and more traction on your front wheel.  (traction is force x surface area.)  Since there is so little traction on your back wheel it is already likely to slip.  When going around a turn, even more so because &quot;centrifugal force&quot; is pushing your bike in the opposite direction of the turn.  All of the forces combined with the low traction from the back tire make your bike likely to slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the road is wet you should use your front brake more than your back because of the acceleration of braking there will be more of a force pressing on your front tire and it will give you much more stopping power and you will have much more traction (the converse of what I said in the first part of the answer).  The problem is that if you are used to using your back brake you will want to be careful as to NOT apply the brake to quickly or you may flip over the handle bars and crack your new Scott bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting in the habit of using a front brake will be a good one to get into.  I always used to use my back brakes only until I realized that it really doesn't have much stopping power, especially on hills.  Now I go through front brakes nearly 3x as often as back brakes (on mtn bike and street bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, as mgb said, you really should limit your braking while turning as much as possible, at least start braking before you start to turn your bike.  Unless of course it is an emergency in which case you should be ready for the worse, even ditching your bike if you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastEditorUserId="4446" LastEditDate="2012-07-02T16:32:59.200" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T16:32:59.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10153" CreationDate="2012-07-02T17:16:41.533" Score="8" ViewCount="48966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am replacing the chain on my road bike soon.  How do I know how many links to get?  Does it have to exactly 114 or 116.  Or is it not a big deal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered a 116 link chain.  Will I need to shorten it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T18:32:56.440" Title="How to tell what length of chain to get?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10151" CreationDate="2012-07-02T17:33:05.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon knows best&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T17:33:05.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10151" CreationDate="2012-07-02T17:39:18.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your old chain was 114 links (assuming it was the right size to begin with) then it's a good idea to take a couple of links out of it. It'll still work with two extra links but shifting may not be optimal and the chain will fall off more easily. Keep in mind that one chain link is composed of an inner and outer link, so a link is actually two pieces with a hinge in the center. This means that to remove two links, you'll actually remove four pieces of chain with three hinge points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the old chain was 116 links and you're trying to replace it with a 114 link chain, you'll run into problems. A chain that is too short can jam when shifting and puts puts too much strain on your rear derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To determine the correct length, wrap your chain around largest chain ring in the front and the largest rear sprocket, without running it through the derailleurs. Make sure that the chain is long enough for one full link (again, inner and outer) to overlap and you'll probably be spot on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more about it here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T17:39:18.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10143" CreationDate="2012-07-02T18:28:19.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a trip that you describe, I would actually recommend using both a rear rack system &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a front rack system.  I have not used a front rack system, but I understand that it changes the handling of the bike.  Having basically four panniers, two on front and two on back, will allow you to distribute the weight around so that you are left/right balanced and neither of the tires is taking an excess.  Then you can redistribute to get the handling that you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The people who run &lt;a href=&quot;http://pathlesspedaled.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Path Less Pedalled&lt;/a&gt; went across the United States with just such a setup before they bought Bromptons and changed everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rear panniers, maybe one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/710404/topeak-mtx-trunkbag-dxp-with-expandable-side-panniers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak units&lt;/a&gt; that consists of a trunk and two side panniers.  Alternately, an Ortlieb set of panniers, leaving the rack proper for you to rope on gear that doesn't fit nicely in the bags (I'm thinking, say, a sleeping bag or hiking poles).  I'm not sure what to use for the front, though.  Your bike shop should be able to help out with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll agree with all of the other comments in that a backpack will both put a lot of painful strain on your back and throw off your balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, keep your tire pressure within spec and do be careful on the forest trails.  If you are familiar with off-road biking, understand that your agility is going to be far less than you are accustomed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  Maybe also start a weblog and post your progress frequently. ^__^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3913" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T18:28:19.937" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10151" CreationDate="2012-07-02T18:32:56.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A standard replacement chain is always several inches longer than needed for a standard non-recumbent, non-tandem bike.  What I generally do is hang both from a wire and match up the links (the old chain will be &quot;stretched&quot;, so you can't simply match by length).  Then I &quot;break&quot; the new chain at the location (number of links) that matches the old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skilled mechanics can simply stretch the chain around the big rings front and rear, put their finger on the link that meets the other end, and break it there, but I'd rather be sure that my new chain matches the old exactly (if the old performed well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T18:32:56.440" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10160" CreationDate="2012-07-02T19:03:41.793" Score="10" ViewCount="10769" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ordered a new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/120938772313?ssPageName=STRK%3aMEWNX%3aIT&amp;amp;_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3248wt_1150&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;KMC X10SL Ti 10 Speed chain&lt;/a&gt; for my bike.  And I am wondering if I should use a master link or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I have had much trouble with them.  I used to use them on my 9 speed mountain bike, and the master link would fall of often.  It turned out that how the suspension compressed it pushed the chain backwards and the master link would pop out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm changing the chain on my road bike for the first time.  It's 10 speed.  And it doesn't have any suspension.  Should I use a master link, or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a Scott CR1, it's their entry line carbon bike.  I ride it about 150mi/week.  A am concerned that using a master link on a chain like the one I ordered will be a problem because it may wear faster then the rest of the chain.  Is this true?  Or am I just paranoid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-02T21:29:44.717" LastActivityDate="2017-04-14T00:28:37.850" Title="Should I use a master link?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;master-link&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2012-07-02T19:30:14.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually always wear a backpack.  I would like to get packs to put on the back of my bike.  But I only have one bike and it's carbon so I will not add any pack frame to it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did, however try my friend's messenger bag one time and it left a bruise the size of a softball on my back.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think messenger bags could be good if you have only a lunch a jacket and a notebook.  But I have to carry a laptop and textbooks to school so my pack usually weighs about 25-30lbf, and I commute 25 miles a day.  When I put all of my gear into the messenger bag the bag kept on slipping off my back the whole time.  And, like I said, it left a nasty bruise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My back does get sweaty from backpacks, but I like them because you can secure them to you with the chest strap, and hip strap.  (Sometimes when crouching over the hip strap doesn't do anything, but the chest strap is always nice to keep the pack stable.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, bottom line, I prefer backpacks.  But I can see, if you aren't carrying heavy items that a messenger bag may be preferable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T19:30:14.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6930" CreationDate="2012-07-02T21:52:29.107" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only been able to find a headset that measures 1-5/16&quot; on the small end of the bearing cup that goes into the headtube on the bike. All of the bearing cups I've found is 1-3/4&quot; on the large end and take a large diameter bearing. The headset that I have is a 1-5/16&quot; bearing cup o.d. but the large end of it measure 1-5/8&quot;. Where do I find a headset like that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4449" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T21:52:29.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-02T21:56:58.307" Score="1" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only been able to find a headset that measures 1-5/16&quot; on the small end of the bearing cup that goes into the headtube on the bike. All of the bearing cups I've found are 1-3/4&quot; on the large end and take a large diameter bearing. The headset bearing cups I have 1-5/16&quot; bearing cup o.d. but the large end measures 1-5/8&quot;. Where do I find a headset like that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4449" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-07-03T03:30:14.127" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T22:00:40.070" Title="Help finding headset" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10156" CreationDate="2012-07-02T23:56:49.630" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ones I've seen shouldn't wear any faster than the rest of the chain because the wear surfaces are the same - what's different are the side plates (and the notch around the end of the pin). If you look closely at how the powerlink is built it has the same elements as the rest of the chain, they're just held in place differently. The only time I've had problems with them was the old 8 speed ones when I used to regularly reopen them and they've become steadily easier to open until they were useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found one report of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingforums.com/t/253477/a-couple-of-sram-chain-chain-stretch-questions&quot;&gt;faster wear here&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-221411.html&quot;&gt;discussion here&lt;/a&gt; where Sheldon Brown actually measured things and concluded it wouldn't be a problem. The latter also features some good advice: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Don't worry about it. Just enjoy riding your bike. Too many people get&#xA;  caught up in the most minute of details and for some reason I tend to&#xA;  think they spend more time thinking about what's wrong (or what could&#xA;  go wrong) with their bike than they do enjoying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T23:56:49.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10156" CreationDate="2012-07-03T04:05:51.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried a master link, but for all that it was supposed to be tool-less, I couldn't lock it closed without pliars, and later I couldn't take it appart without tools.  It may have been I didn't know what I was doing, but since then I just use the chain tool.  Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4452" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T04:05:51.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10165" CreationDate="2012-07-03T06:55:01.677" Score="9" ViewCount="93528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've this bike MTB hardtail Marin Bolinas Ridge 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it has generic composite pedals which I want to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while choosing pedals I saw two different choices, 1/2 and 9/16 inch pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't understand what does this sizes mean and apply to what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please if someone can explain it to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001C3GJ22&quot;&gt;Diamondback Sound Pedal 9/16&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001C3AU22&quot;&gt;1/2 model&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4430" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T11:44:52.090" Title="What's difference between 1/2 and 9/16 inch pedals?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10119" CreationDate="2012-07-03T07:25:50.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought one and am puzzling over the same problem.&#xA;My strap has two elastic loops that encircle the main strap (the bit that should be horizontal in use), I thought that these were to hold the camera, as it would be considerably more secure than being wedged under the buckle of the top strap as illustrated in the photo. It took a lot of effort to get the camera into one off these elastic loops and when I had,I found that it had damaged the stitching.&#xA;I actually managed to get the strap round my helmet (had to take off the peak visor thing to do it), but it was so tight it threatened to ping off at any moment. The stitching here looked under stress as well.&#xA;I phoned the retailer, who offered a refund.&#xA;Trouble is, the camera seems excellent &amp;amp; I haven't had any problems with the handlebar mount, I just want to have the camera looking where I'm facing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4454" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T07:25:50.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10174" CreationDate="2012-07-03T07:28:09.003" Score="5" ViewCount="14561" Body="&lt;p&gt;The frame of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dimibike.com/velosipedi-koloezdene/velosipedi-planinski-hardtail/velosiped-ferrini-r3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bike&lt;/a&gt; has the capacity for V-brakes and disc brakes. There are some problems with the rear V-brake and I am considering installing a disc brake instead (just for elevated coolness). The bike is one year old. The only part, that was exchanged is the chain  - one month ago. The bike is a commuter/touring/cross-country style ridden. The hubs of the wheels do not have holes for bolts, that should hold a disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the main things to consider when upgrading to a rear disc brake? What parts should I buy? I am considering brake + whole assembled rear wheel == hub+spokes+rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T01:54:11.183" Title="What to consider when changing V-brake for a disc brake?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10162" CreationDate="2012-07-03T08:01:24.327" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The measurement is for the diameter of the pedal spindles, where they thread into the cranks. You need to find out whether your existing pedals' axle is 9/16&quot; or 1/2&quot;. If there is no measurement indication on your existing pedals or the paperwork which came with your bike, ask your LBS if they could test out with some existing pedals to find out what size you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-07-04T08:32:31.150" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T08:32:31.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10168" CreationDate="2012-07-03T09:09:36.560" Score="8" ViewCount="13981" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I have a 7 speed cassette (13-23) running with a spacer on a new Tiagra hub. After I changed my chain, the wear has made two of the gears unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering changing the cassette to increase the number of gears. The simple option would be 8 speed (12-23). The other alternative looking at the chainrings would be a complete change to 9 (11-23) or 10 (11-25) speed and drop a few teeth at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will my current chainring be incompatible with a new cassette and chain? In other words, can I use a 9 or 10 speed chain with a chainring designed for a 7 speed cassette and chain? Is there a significant difference in durability between the setups?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mainly use by bike for commuting and light road touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-03T16:56:56.663" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T14:10:09.690" Title="Is a 7 speed chainring compatible with an 8, 9 or 10 speed cassette and chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10143" CreationDate="2012-07-03T13:19:08.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a member of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.warmshowers.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Warm Showers&lt;/a&gt;, and regularly host cross-country bike tourists and get to check out their gear. Except for the occasional &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/richmond-in/4611075091/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;monk with orange robes and a small backpack&lt;/a&gt;, what bike tourists choose has been surprisingly uniform. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's usefully Ortlieb panniers on front and rear racks, and sometimes a handlebar bag. The details and presence of the handlebar bags vary some, but the choice and use of Ortlieb panniers has been a near constant. I don't own any yet, but I suspect they are chosen because they are waterproof and durable-- two key qualities for a long distance trip!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple sample photos of bike tourists I've hosted (both with Ortlieb panniers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/3997945969/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ryan - Riding from Indiana to Arizona by Mark Stosberg, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2471/3997945969_25d2df8825.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;500&quot; alt=&quot;Ryan - Riding from Indiana to Arizona&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/7283784432/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Ellis and Kirin, ready to roll out of Richmond, Indiana by Mark Stosberg, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7083/7283784432_ca9b23a502.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;375&quot; alt=&quot;Ellis and Kirin, ready to roll out of Richmond, Indiana&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add: don't worry about the weight-- with a proper rack, bike tourists sometimes carry 50 to 80 pounds of gear, much of it on the rear wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.257" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T13:26:07.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10166" CreationDate="2012-07-03T13:37:58.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your chainring and front derailleur should work just fine with a 10 speed chain and cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary concern with your upgrade will not be the chainring and front derailleur, but rather the rear shifter and derailleur. A 7 speed shifter or derailleur will not work with an 8 or 9 speed cassette, so you will need to buy new ones. But at least your upgrades will be limited to the rear components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: After seeing user973810's answer, I prefer it to mine. However, since my answer was accepted, it looks like I can't delete it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T21:10:54.690" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T21:10:54.690" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10162" CreationDate="2012-07-03T16:12:42.770" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/2&quot; pedals are for cheapo one-piece cranks, while 9/16&quot; pedals are for 2 or 3 piece cranks. You probably need 9/16th...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T16:12:42.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-03T17:42:07.630" Score="8" ViewCount="46701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an 80's Japanese bike off craigslist called &quot;Jupiter King.&quot; It has 27 inch tires but I want to switch to 700c for greater wheel/tire selection. I specifically want some nice yellow wheels with yellow rim. Help? I am quite a noob with bikes. Thanks for any help/advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4460" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2012-07-03T20:31:40.500" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T00:42:43.357" Title="How do I know if I can replace the 27 inch wheels with 700c wheels on my bike?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;27-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10170" CreationDate="2012-07-03T18:44:06.990" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may or may not be able to make that conversion with your existing brake/frame combination. Your brakes will have to reach farther because a 700c wheel is a smidge smaller than a 27 inch wheel. Depending on your setup, that may be possible. I'd recommend borrowing a 700c wheelset from someone to see if you can line it all up. If it all lines up, great. Purchase whatever 700c wheelset strikes your fancy. If not, you may be able to purchase brakes with a longer reach. Some older frames still won't work with 700c wheels even with the longest brakes available. If that's the case for your frame, you're stuck with 27's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, if it were me and I couldn't get it to work with the existing brakes, I'd stick with 27 inch wheels. If you start having to swap brakes out, it starts to get iffy and frankly, I think it's more hassle than it's worth. It's a lot easier (and maybe cheaper) to just start hunting for a frame that already has 700s on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T18:44:06.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10176" CreationDate="2012-07-03T21:58:46.520" Score="4" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a single speed bike with bullhorn handles. When I'm climbing steep hills I pull on the bullhorns quite hard, and once I'm back on a flat I'll occasionally find that the front wheel has become misaligned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a new bike, could this be due to the amount of lubrication on the stem that will fix itself over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, I presume I could tighten the stem, but would that introduce any new problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4461" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T23:02:35.047" Title="Front wheel getting misaligned while climbing hills" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10164" CreationDate="2012-07-03T22:05:44.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html&lt;/a&gt; goes into quite a bit of detail on front and rear braking. Based on that my first concern in upgrading to a rear disc brake is making sure that I also have a front disc brake in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4461" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T22:05:44.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10164" CreationDate="2012-07-03T22:08:58.857" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, it's an expensive upgrade that won't benefit you much. You'll see quite a few cheaper bikes that only have a disk on the front, because that's where you get most benefit from a disk. So the cheaper option is definitely to buy a better V brake. It will work just as well and be cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a new rear hub, and it's likely to be cheaper to buy a prebuilt wheel rather than pay someone to rebuild your current rim with a new hub into a wheel (I suggest not re-using the spokes even if you can). You will, of course, need to buy the disk brake as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's the rear brake, I'd go with the cheapest cable operated brake I could find. The advantage there is that it's cheap. A more expensive cable operated brake will work slightly better and have both pads adjustable making it easier to set up. But it won't look any more like a disk brake, so there's no real benefit in your situation. Likewise, a hydraulic brake will work better in the rain and snow, but cost more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T22:08:58.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10172" CreationDate="2012-07-03T22:12:25.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you might have either a loose headset or handlebar stem. I would take it back to where you bought it and describe the problem. If it's recently purchased, they would probably fix it under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T22:12:25.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10172" CreationDate="2012-07-03T22:14:09.927" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's scary, you shouldn't be able to do that. It sounds as though you can straighten it easily too. If you straddle the front wheel facing backwards can you twist the bars in the fork easily?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, definitely tighten it up. Firmly. You should not be able to move that! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who put the bike together? If it's new, take it back and talk to the owner of the shop - this is something they should be aware of so they can (re)train whoever assembled/serviced the bike. Of course, if it's a big box shop paying schoolchildren $2/bike to take them out of the box and assemble them they won't care, but you shouldn't be buying bikes from them for exactly that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit: answer second part of the question) Over-tightening it could break things, yes. But that's normally quite hard to do. If it's a new bike get the shop to do this. If it's your bike it's easy enough to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a modern threadless headset there will usually be two allen key bolts to tighten, and the best solution IMO is the Rolls-Royce one* - use a multi-tool with a short handle, so you don't have enough leverage to overtighten it. Do the bolts up firmly, test by trying to twist the handlebars. If you can, do it up a little more firmly. Then stop, because you don't want to strip the stem and there's probably something else wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a quill stem there will be a single hex head bolt going down into the headset (rather than across the top). But the procedure is the same, tighten it firmly and test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, if that doesn't fix it you should open things up and find out why. But I'll leave that for another question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Henry Royce made each spanner of such a length that when tightened firmly the relevant bolt was correctly torqued. There's a description &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rrec.org.uk/Cars/The_Silver_Cloud_Series/Origins_and_Designs.php&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; in the paragraph beginning &quot;It is worth recounting that the ‘S’ series&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastEditorUserId="3582" LastEditDate="2012-07-03T23:02:35.047" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T23:02:35.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-03T22:17:00.963" Score="8" ViewCount="7268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently trying to unlock my bike that has been sitting on my porch for a while, the key works and turns, and I can hear the lock engaging/disengaging, however I cannot get the shackle to come out. I think their might be dust/sand stuck in the mechanism however I'm not sure how to get it off now to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4462" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-07-04T03:56:04.073" LastActivityDate="2019-09-29T19:40:26.423" Title="Onguard U-lock jammed" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10177" CreationDate="2012-07-03T22:26:54.293" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get some &quot;Creep&quot; or other penetrating oil (ask at Home Depot or Lowes and they'll point you right to it). This is similar to WD-40 but it foams a bit and seeps in everywhere. Apply liberally both at both ends where the U plugs into the bar as well as where the key fits in (key may turn without the tumblers moving completely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will likely loosen things up...a bit of patience and a bit of trying to move the parts around will usually work wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this fails, apply some more &quot;creep&quot; and use a persuader (hammer, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that fails, you're going to need a hacksaw and a couple of blades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&#xA;Note: This is karma's way of telling you that your bike likes to live indoors when it's not being ridden :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T22:26:54.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10166" CreationDate="2012-07-04T02:19:56.430" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;7 speed systems use slightly wider chains, and the teeth on the chainring are slightly wider too. You might run into an issue with a ten speed chain not fitting over the teeth, or at least not fitting well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T02:19:56.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10210" CreationDate="2012-07-04T07:34:31.720" Score="7" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 40-622 (a.k.a. 28x1.5&quot;) tires, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.de/gbl/en/produkte/schlaeuche/&quot;&gt;Schwalbe&lt;/a&gt; offers &#xA;two different sizes of tubes - their models &quot;17&quot; and &quot;19&quot; - as applicable for that tire size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, either one would surely fit well. But apart from weight difference (150 vs. 220 grams), is there any reason to &lt;em&gt;prefer&lt;/em&gt; one over another? Is it better to have as small &amp;amp; light tube as possible? Or perhaps a bit larger and heavier one would be more durable, as it wouldn't be stretched as much? Err on which side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="542" LastEditorUserId="542" LastEditDate="2012-07-04T10:34:48.417" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T16:57:16.103" Title="Which tube size to prefer if several options apply?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10181" CreationDate="2012-07-04T08:00:38.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to get the tube to match the tire as close as possible. Nowadays they make the tubes smaller and allow them to stretch out, and for the most part it isnt a problem, but this is to save the company money and not because it doesn't matter. Anyway, I would suggest a slightly smaller tube over a slightly larger tube (in comparison to the tire) because there are more problems with pinching in a larger tube than stretching/herniating with the smaller tubes. As for which tube to use, I don't know the conversion, if the 19&quot; is larger than the tire go with the 17&quot;. But I would say try find one that is closer to the actual tire size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T08:00:38.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10156" CreationDate="2012-07-04T08:16:18.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most master links I have used are designed to fit into the the &quot;barrels&quot; of the smaller links and never actually touch the sprockets, in that sense, there shouldn't be much wear on them. The master link is designed to be removed and so it has more moving parts than the other links and this makes it SLIGHTLY weaker. Unless you are cranking the snot of of your chain like a racer in a gate or straight up abusing it like a BMX street rider, you shouldn't have problems with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have run into problems with my master links and so I have almost always just used a chain breaker to bolt the chain on, but I am in the last category, I beat the snot out of my bikes, so I need the extra strength. Basically it comes to this: You shouldn't have a problem with a master link, but if it gives you peace of mind, loop-bolt the chain!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T08:16:18.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10181" CreationDate="2012-07-04T09:01:22.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find the tube that will fit without any folding. I would avoid a tyre that needs to stretch too much. It can exopose manufacturing differences and makes patching harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T09:01:22.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10170" CreationDate="2012-07-04T09:09:09.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference between 700C and 27&quot; is pretty small. The rims are 622mm and 630mm so the actual change in brake shoe position is 4mm (less than 1/4&quot;). Look at your brakes and decide whether they will suit. You may be able to change the brakes to ones with longer arms (assuming caliper types).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue may be the rear hub as these have got wider over the years. If it's only a couple of mm you can probably spring the rear forks enough to fit. If it's more than that I would advise you to find a frame builder who can reset the forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T09:09:09.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-04T18:11:31.423" Score="12" ViewCount="21616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a square taper bottom bracket. How can I tell whether it is a J.I.S. or ISO &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html&quot;&gt;taper&lt;/a&gt; with a minimum amount of disassembly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, it's a Ritchey from 2004. However, it would be nice to get answers that apply to other brands as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T21:40:51.397" Title="How can I tell the difference between a J.I.S. and ISO square taper bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-04T19:03:39.143" Score="-1" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my rear wheel off to fix a flat and hung the bike up by its front wheel to store. when I returned to put the tire back on the chain had slipped totally out of the rear derailleur, caged jockey gear &amp;amp; all. Any body ever see this &amp;amp; can the chain be replaced without breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Michael&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4467" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T23:41:14.530" Title="Chain fell out of rear derailleur when wheel off." Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10187" CreationDate="2012-07-04T19:10:19.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That can't happen on a standard design rear derailer unless one of the jockey wheels (or some screws) falls out.  Are both wheels there?  Are there any missing screws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you must have an oddball derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-07-04T23:41:14.530" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T23:41:14.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-04T19:11:43.113" Score="4" ViewCount="962" Body="&lt;p&gt;We want to do a ride through our city to show the presence of cycling and want that people do not only see bikes, but also a message.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We thought of using some posters that we mount on our bikes, but we are not sure how to do this. We thought about glueing the posters on card board and maybe even reinforcing the card board with wood. We are thinking about A3 sized posters, or even larger. If there was somebody with experience on how to build posters so one can mount them easily on a bicycle, tips would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other tips on how to convey a message as a group on bicycles would also be nice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to keep the problem pretty open, so it can be of use to other people facing a similar problem, but since they have been requested:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifics are as follows: We want to make a bike ride in suits to show that cycling is possible in any attire, and I opted in to find a solution how to make posters so people see our message and do not just wonder about a group of cyclists in suits. We might need a big poster in front and in the back, and the individual cyclist should also be able to mount a message on their bikes easily (want to make around 5 smaller posters). There should be some trailers available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be nice if the posters are reuseable, maybe even for different purposes, but the ride I want to use them for will only last around 2 to 3 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Budget is pretty tight, I would guess around 50 $.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastEditorUserId="1494" LastEditDate="2012-07-10T07:24:20.300" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T07:24:20.300" Title="How to mount posters, bills or placards on a bicycle" Tags="&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10189" CreationDate="2012-07-04T19:25:49.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think the best would be to attach to a rear rack.  The posters could stick up above the top of the rack, occupying maybe 3 vertical feet.  Width would be limited by heel clearance issues -- probably about 18 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also put small posters on the front wheel, mounted to a front rack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there can be a poster in the triangle between the tubes.  This would be easiest to mount -- just secure with nylon cable ties around the tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the durability desired, foam-core posterboard would be a good starting point.  From there I'd go to &quot;Masonite&quot; (tempered hardboard) if you can find it, for more durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-07-04T23:39:48.680" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T23:39:48.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10189" CreationDate="2012-07-04T23:19:37.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most practical approach we found for larger posters was trailers. &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.net.nz/photo/2003/03/06-greens-bikes/greens-bikes-15-moz.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Like this&lt;/a&gt; They're somewhat inclined to fall over in the wind so you have to be a little cautious, but the group who were using them lent them out to a range of people without any problems (other than getting the trailers back afterwards). You can attach the same A frames to a loadbike if you have one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to about A3 you can strap to your back, ideally to a backpack, or to the sides of a rear rack. I've either laminated posters or printed on coreflute, then stapled them to a wooden frame and cable tied them to the bike. The problem is that you have to print large for people to be able to read it, and that means &quot;BIKES GOOD&quot; rather than a paragraph. The graphic below I stole from a guy in Sydney because it's IMO good - simple, easy to grasp and direct. You could leave the &quot;critical mass&quot; off if you wanted to, obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0o3Sq.png&quot; alt=&quot;more {bike symbol} lanes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to attach slogans to cyclists it's easier to do it on a T shirt. Critical Mass have a huge range of advocacy shirt designs and places like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://chicagocriticalmass.org/flyerexchange/flyerlist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chicago Flyer Exchange&lt;/a&gt; have a range of artwork ready for you to use. People will generally pay you for the shirts, so you can use them to fundraise a little as well (cost of a printed shirt is usually a lot less than people expect, so just rounding up to the nearest convenient price usually results in a cheap shirt and a small surplus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T23:19:37.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-05T01:02:04.490" Score="3" ViewCount="4826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Continuum fixie. I try to tighten the chain and in some areas the chain is nice and tight and when I rotate the pedals in other areas the chain is loose.  My question is should I be happy with it being tight in some areas and not in others?&#xA;Thanks&#xA;Sheila&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4468" LastEditorUserId="3582" LastEditDate="2012-07-05T02:19:58.090" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T03:19:45.157" Title="should the chain be uniformly tight on a fixie?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10192" CreationDate="2012-07-05T01:11:13.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little bit of variation is normal, yes. If the chain is so loose at the loose point that the chain falls off I'd call that a manufacturing or assembly defect and take the bike back to where you bought it and get them to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In more detail the issue is exactly centering the chainring on the bottom bracket/crank, where normally the chainring is not perfectly round or perfectly centred. You can often tweak this a little by slightly loosening the chainring bolts and using the tiny amount of play between the chainring and spider to get a slightly better fit. Loosen the bolts, rotate the crank to the tightest point, pull on the chain to shift the chainring, repeat. You'll almost certainly not be able to entirely fix the problem, but you will probably be able to reduce it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastEditorUserId="3582" LastEditDate="2012-07-05T03:19:45.157" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T03:19:45.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10192" CreationDate="2012-07-05T01:51:31.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some irregularity is not surprising. Lower-priced components are more prone to this than more expensive ones, but that is not a big problem providing the chain is not so slack as to fall off or climb over the cog's teeth, neither too tight that it binds the drivetrain, even slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience (fixed and motorcycle) there can be three causes of this symptom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Off-center chainring (most common);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Off-center sprocket (my current low-end fixie);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unevenly worn chain (common with motorcycle I had);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unevenly worn chain is rare, and might occur if you ride a lot having lubricated only part of it. The non-lubed section will wear out faster. Another possibility would be to have a chain reassembled from different chains, but that would be very exceptional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the chainring case, the answer provided by Kohi, also mentioned by &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;, is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before doing so, it is important to check if the culprit is not the SPROCKET instead of the chainring. By turning the bike upside down and spinning the rear wheel slowly (beware of your fingers on the drivetrain!), watch if the stretching and slacking frequency matches the crank revolutions or the wheel revolutions. If it matches the wheel's, then the sprocket is off-center and the eccentricity cannot be eliminated. In this case, discover the wheel position that is tighter, and adjust the chain slack in that position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final note, when I first installed my crank, I tried to center the ring by loosening the bolts, just to discover that the ring didn't move at all: it was already precisely &quot;seated&quot; in the spider. If it wasn't perfectly centered, it would not be possible to center it using this method (or at least without filing away some metal). Just to make it clear, it was (and still is) the sprocket that was a bit off-center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T01:51:31.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-05T02:20:56.150" Score="6" ViewCount="5545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Focale44 fixie with a single speed on the other side of the gear (this is called a flip-flop I think?) and I LOVE it so far! I've ridden it for about six months and haven't had to fix anything big on it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is that I must have screwed the pedals in the wrong sides and now I can't get them back out. But, in trying to fix this, I'm really hoping not to have to buy a whole new crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations on this one? Here is the crankset...&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sidewallactionsports.com/p-5695-focale-44-revolted-crank.aspx&quot;&gt;Focale 44 Crankset&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I still ride it? I can't really afford to replace anything for a few weeks and I might die if I don't get to ride during that time! Can I just replace the arms? If not, what cranks can you recommend? I really can't drop any more than about $100 on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4469" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-07-05T02:27:44.070" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T18:01:29.847" Title="Solutions for pedals screwed in the wrong sides?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10195" CreationDate="2012-07-05T05:44:51.750" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt that you actually managed to screw your pedals into the wrong sides.  If it can even be done, the amount of force required to do so would have easily alerted you that you were doing something dreadfully wrong.  Not to mention the aluminum shavings that would have been all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedals can get pretty snug just through the action of peddling the bike and it may take quite a bit of force to get the unscrewing action started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember that crank arms and pedals are threaded so that the action of pedalling the bike does not cause the pedal to loosen and fall off.  This means that on one side of the bike, the right/chain side, the pedal is threaded as a regular clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen bolt.  The left-hand crank is threaded in the opposite direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to apply a good amount of force (in the right direction) to loosen the pedals.  If they are threaded correctly, it would be quite difficult to ruin them by applying too much force.  If they actually are threaded incorrectly, the crank arms are ruined anyway, so you're not going to make things worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4470" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T05:44:51.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9595" CreationDate="2012-07-05T06:39:34.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual says they are self-adjusting but a shop told me you can adjust them slightly by loosening the rear caliper from the frame, squeezing the brake pedal gently, and tightening the caliper back down to the frame (to specs of course). Also, be sure not to loosen the screws holding the two sides of the caliper together, otherwise you'll let the fluid out and air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3015" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T06:39:34.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-05T08:00:26.323" Score="1" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a bike that I have had for about 8 weeks and it has already been back to be serviced twice. It's just returned from the second service and I've noticed that it is not shifting from 14th to 7th gear - 2nd at the front and low gear at the back to low at the front and low at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I change down to 12th or 10th it will comfortably change down to the low gear at the front. Is this a common problem or should I get it looked at again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4471" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T14:37:51.837" Title="Unable to change from 14th to 7th" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10195" CreationDate="2012-07-05T08:24:22.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not too familiar with fixies, but I do ride a BMX with a Left-Side Drive. When I first flipped my cranks to the left I stripped out my pedals. This had nothing to do with cross threading, but rather because the pedals on the right are right hand threads, and the left are left hand threads FOR A REASON! If you simply flip the cranks around you are cranking with the threads (unscrewing), rather than against them (tightening), and the pedals will twist out of the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution to MY problem was to by a more modern crankset that had a sprocket bolt hole on the left arm and leave the left/right arms on the correct sides. Unless I had your bike in front of me I wouldn't be able to tell, but is your sprocket on the left or right side of the bike? Looking at the link you provided it looks like your sprocket is integrated into the cranks so flipping it to the left would mess up the left/right feng shui!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T08:24:22.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10189" CreationDate="2012-07-05T08:46:13.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen quite a few bikes with a piece of plastic in the front triangle attached with wire or zip-ties. It was a thicker kind of plastic, kind of like they make binders out of. I couldn't find a picture of one so I MSPainted what it might look like:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QmJGK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T08:46:13.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10198" CreationDate="2012-07-05T11:05:30.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean that you're having problems changing from the large front chainring to the small front chainring when the smallest rear sprocket is selected, then you should be able to adjust the travel on the front derallieur. If you're not confident tweaking the appropiate screw on the front changer then ask your shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have this problem only when riding, or is it the same if you change gears with the back wheel off the ground? You might need a friend to turn pedals while you try this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is sometimes a compromise between tricky changing and throwing the chain off at the front and then you have to decide which is most inconvenient - I'd have tricky changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, it is generally recommended that you avoid running large front chainring to large rear sprocket or small front chainring to small rear sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T11:05:30.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10198" CreationDate="2012-07-05T14:37:51.837" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can, with the chain in one of the middle cogs in the back, shift to each of the front chain rings then your front derailleur is likely in proper alignment and adjustment. This question and answer cover &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9776/how-do-i-properly-adjust-a-front-derailleur&quot;&gt;how to adjust the derailleur&lt;/a&gt; if you want to learn how to do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are describing, shifting to small ring in front and small cog in back, or big ring in front-big cog is called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclechainrings.com/crosschaining.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cross chaining&lt;/a&gt;&quot; and should be avoided. If you ride cross-chained it causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Significant stress on the chain, and may cause failure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Added friction and wear on the drive train.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible derailleur failure if you cross chain &quot;big to big&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T14:37:51.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5846" CreationDate="2012-07-05T16:06:18.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually I have been using Merrell Barefoot Trailgloves for over a year now for xc biking. In sections with water crossings that are too slick/fast moving to cross without carrying they're great. If you do impact with something you WILL feel it however. Beyond that if you're going the flats route they're quite sticky on the pedals and great for off the bike as well ( really nice not to slip when you're carrying near 30 lbs in muck ) Give em a try if you're not for em you at least have a great summertime short hike shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4473" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T16:06:18.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5846" CreationDate="2012-07-05T17:57:13.300" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go ahead and be the dissenting opinion in this discussion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, for anything other than racing, I think that the clipless shoe and stiff sole combo is pretty overrated. I've switched from SPD's to regular tennis shoes for my tours and have never regretted it. I've never used the Merrills specifically, however I own and have toured (and commute daily) in the New Balance version of this shoe and they're great. And my girlfriend prefers low-top Converse.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedaling in a stiff-soled clipless shoe definitely does offer some mechanical advantage. However, in my experience it's not enough to notice when you're touring with a loaded bike. And the trade-off of being able to just hop off the bike and wander around in shoes that are incredibly comfortable is more than worth it. I also have less foot pain and numbness in regular shoes. I'm not 100% sure this is the reason, but I think it's because I'm able to move my foot around on the pedals more, kind of like having more hand positions on drop bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T17:57:13.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5846" CreationDate="2012-07-05T18:42:57.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barefoot running shoes are too flexible for regular riding.  They can be used in a pinch if you need to, but I wouldn't plan to use those on a tour or long ride. It's going to get very uncomfortable without the support from a rigid sole to help distribute the pressure from pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SPD shoes are generally the best option for long rides.  For touring where you are on and off the bike a lot, you may want to consider mountain bike style clipless shoes which allow you to walk around a bit easier than with road shoes due to a more recessed cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, stiff soled sneakers (like adidas samba shoes and others) tend to be well suited to riding if you want to forgo the SPD  option.  Many people prefer to use sneakers along with toe clips or foot retention straps (FRS) to increase their pedaling efficiency.  It's not as efficient as SPD shoes, but it's better than without clips or straps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T18:42:57.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5846" CreationDate="2012-07-06T07:05:37.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;People used to assume that you needed shoes with support and cushioning for walking and running, and that has turned out to be entirely false - you don't need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore we shouldn't assume the conventional wisdom that you need stiff shoes for cycling is necessary either. I've done 220KM over 3 days (110KM each way to run a half marathon) wearing Vibram FiveFingers, and wasn't at all fatigued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like shoes with support for walking will make your feet weak, shoes with stiff soles for cycling will also make your feet weak. If you've got weak feet, you're creating a self-fulfilling prophecy becayse they simply won't be strong enough to handle cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I make no claims that minimalist flexible shoes will offer the same race performance as stiff shoes, as I only cycle to get from point A to point B, but it's also quite clear that for going from point A to point B, you don't need them either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4461" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T07:05:37.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10209" CreationDate="2012-07-06T10:05:35.423" Score="9" ViewCount="18589" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/2012/01/how-cars-can-be-nice-to-cyclists/&quot;&gt;The Bicycles.SE blog&lt;/a&gt; states &quot;Cyclists are vehicles, not pedestrians.&quot;. I think most of this community, plus most of the laws agree with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a cyclist has the speed, mass and maneuverability of a sprinting person (who is, of course, a pedestrian).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why are bicycle riders considered vehicles and not pedestrians?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-29T23:54:17.557" LastActivityDate="2021-02-10T03:48:17.580" Title="Why are bicycles considered vehicles and not &quot;walking aid&quot;?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10207" CreationDate="2012-07-06T11:24:25.800" Score="27" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a cyclist has the speed, mass and maneuverability of a sprinting person&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really! The &lt;em&gt;world record for 100 m sprint&lt;/em&gt; is 9.58 s, which equals 37.6 km/h, which is fast but not anything spectacular for a bicycle. The &lt;em&gt;marathon world record&lt;/em&gt; equals to little more than 20 km/h, which is less than my average commuting speed. Going back to &quot;human&quot; speeds, I would estimate that an average biker goes roughly twice the speed of an average runner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With double speed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braking distance is quadrupled (ignoring reaction time).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kinetic energy = damage in case is collision is quadrupled (not even taking into account 10-20 kg extra mass &amp;amp; hard and sharp metal parts of the bike).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="542" LastEditorUserId="542" LastEditDate="2012-07-06T11:30:45.683" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T11:30:45.683" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10207" CreationDate="2012-07-06T11:27:03.693" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traffic law (in the US):  The law considers the bicycle, first and foremost, to be a mode of transport, and sees a need to regulate the flow of bikes the way it regulates the flow of automobiles.  This dates back to the dawn of automobiles, if not before (though in some states it took decades for the law to spell things out as it does).  This makes sense, since bicycles can attain speeds well in excess of a normal pedestrian and their speed creates hazards for both them and pedestrians if they ride on sidewalks or otherwise behave as pedestrians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, if bicycles were pedestrians we'd not be allowed on roads, in the flow of traffic.  This would place a major constraint on cycling few of us would want to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe most states have an exclusion of sorts for children on bikes or maybe even for adults riding at low speed, allowing them to use (most) pedestrian paths.  But this is an exception to the general rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a problem that a significant fraction of the general public does not tend to view bicycles as vehicles, but this is an education problem, and I'd definitely not want to confuse the issue by raising the above question &quot;in public&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am reminded, however, of &quot;Big Lip Louie&quot;, a guy who lived in rural Louisville, KY 50 years ago when I was a kid.  He was, at the time, maybe 30-40, and didn't drive, but walked everywhere.  He was tall -- well over 6 feet -- with long legs, and could walk at speeds I'd guess were in excess of 10 MPH.  It was fairly common to encounter him walking along a rural road, pretty much right down the center of the road.  He was more of a &quot;vehicle&quot; than a pedestrian.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T11:27:03.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10181" CreationDate="2012-07-06T11:51:28.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, the tube box will list the sizes it covers. Make sure your size is within those parameters (and ideally not &quot;on the edge&quot;). Beyond that you'd generally pick the lighter tube for road and the heavier one for off-road.  And a heavier tube will generally provide a slight improvement in puncture resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid very light tubes unless you're a racer, as they will often &quot;leak down&quot; much faster than heavier tubes, requiring you to inflate your tires twice daily in some cases.  (It would be nice if manufacturers rated their tubes based on leakage.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T11:51:28.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10207" CreationDate="2012-07-06T12:19:28.007" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, the law that says cyclists are vehicles rather than pedestrians pre-dates the automobile. The specific pieces of legislation are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/Will4/5-6/50/section/72&quot;&gt;Highway Act 1835&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If any person shall wilfully ride upon any footpath or causeway by the&#xA;  side of any road made or set apart for the use or accommodation of&#xA;  foot passengers; or shall wilfully lead or drive any horse, ass,&#xA;  sheep, mule, swine, or cattle or carriage of any description, or any&#xA;  truck or sledge, upon any such footpath or causeway; or shall tether&#xA;  any horse, ass, mule, swine, or cattle, on any highway, so as to&#xA;  suffer or permit the tethered animal to be thereon;. . .  every person&#xA;  so offending in any of the cases aforesaid shall for each and every&#xA;  such offence forfeit and pay any sum not exceeding [level 2 on the&#xA;  standard scale], over and above the damages occasioned thereby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/Vict/51-52/41&quot;&gt;Local Government Act 1888&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Regulations for bicycles, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;bicycles, tricycles, velocipedes, and other similar machines are&#xA;  hereby declared to be carriages within the meaning of the Highway Acts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decision to put bicycles in the same category as horse drawn carts seems perfectly sensible given the era in which it was made. While the situation on the roads is now very different, cyclists should still be classed as vehicles rather than pedestrians for the reasons given in the other answers to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T12:19:28.007" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10207" CreationDate="2012-07-06T14:16:25.533" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are surely vehicles, since people &quot;ride&quot; them, they don't walk with its aid. Then, the bicycle would be considered a land, inline-two-wheeled, human-propelled vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Brazil, where I live, the (sometimes confusing) Traffic Law states that bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are categorized as human propelled vehicles;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have the right of passage over motor vehicles, and should be taken care of by them;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must follow traffic signs and lights;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should ride always along the border of the way, or in the slow lane, or in dedicated infrastucture when available;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can overtake stopped vehicles by occupying the space between lanes;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any rider pulling the bike is equal to pedestrians regarding traffic rights, and thus can go along pedestrian crossings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is interesting that traffic laws and regulations have two ambiguous functions: at the same time they force vehicles to follow rules, so as to &quot;protect&quot; the rest of society, it is possible to see a tendency to create traffic laws so as to facilitate motorized traffic, and someway put the rest of society &quot;out of the way&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the bike for transportation, in this context (partly vehicle, partly &quot;human&quot;) has been an interesting way (for the good and for the bad) to feel how difficult it is to &quot;label&quot; it one thing or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T14:16:25.533" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10181" CreationDate="2012-07-06T16:57:16.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I use the largest tube that will fit my bike.  That makes me feel better because the rubber of the tube is not stretching out as much as it might be for a smaller tube.  I honestly don't have any &quot;prof&quot; but I feel like it helps prevent flats.  I've gone 1000 miles since my last flat.  Mostly because of the tires I have, but I think that using the largest working tubes does help prevent things like pinch flats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T16:57:16.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10217" CreationDate="2012-07-06T17:39:50.997" Score="-1" ViewCount="1205" Body="&lt;p&gt;In September I got a Scott CR1 (2007 model) for my 17th birthday.  It's my first road bike and I love commuting on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up until I got my Scott I was a strict mountain biker.  So when I got my road bike I got a pair of mountain bike pedals for it since I already had the shoes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after 3k miles or so, my pedals are really wearing themselves out.  I want to get a pair of road bike cleats.  But which ones should I start with?  I don't want the &quot;entry line&quot; cleats but I also don't want to spend more than $150 MAX. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/road/ultegra/product.-code-PD-6700-G.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is what I was thinking about for the pedals and cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.serfas.com/products/view/8/referer%3aproducts%7Cindex%7Cshoes%7Cmens-road-shoes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is what I had in mind for shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T18:14:10.670" Title="What cleats should I get as my first cycling shoes?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-06T18:09:32.060" Score="0" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/623/is-listening-to-music-dangerous-while-cycling&quot;&gt;Is listening to music dangerous while cycling?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it bad to listen to earphones while commuting?  I have a lot of people tell me I shouldn't, but I find when I'm biking without them I completely zone out other audio and I don't even notice other cars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it really that bad to be listening to music while biking?  Am I putting myself at risk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T22:57:47.947" Title="Should I listen to music when I bike?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2012-07-07T05:00:20.277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10215" CreationDate="2012-07-06T18:14:10.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, looks good, sounds like you already know what you want. If you get those items you mentioned, you'll be able to pedal your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are you spending money to switch cleat styles? I'm assuming you had clipless pedals on the mountain bike as well.  Unless you're having issues with your existing cleats, I'd just buy all my gear to match.  I happily use SPD pedals on both my road and mountain bike, so do lots of other people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use MTB shoes on my road bike and like them because they are not awkward to walk around in compared to SPD-SL cleats on road shoes. However, you could easily get a separate pair of 'road' shoes that use the same style cleat, then you could use the shoes interchangeably depending on what you're doing (I'd prefer the mountain shoes when touring or urban riding, while the road shoes may feel better for longer road rides with infrequent stopping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you have issues with your current setup (like hot spots on the feet), not feeling as firmly clipped in as you would like, then you may want another style cleat with a larger connection area and stiffer soled shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T18:14:10.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10216" CreationDate="2012-07-06T18:19:25.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every opinion differs. Check local law and then decide for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I listen to music and audiobooks during my commute, but not on rides with others (I'd rather chat with them during the flats). I do pay attention to my surroundings and if the traffic is sketchy I will pop one (or both) buds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T18:19:25.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10216" CreationDate="2012-07-06T19:03:50.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car-locating via the auditory system is a pretty much subconscious activity, but it exists nevertheless, and requires the audio channel to be free from blocking music.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other option would be to listen to music at a lower level, or with only one earbud inserted, but this tends to give a poor musical experience, since wind on the earbud and the lower perceived sound level from a single ear makes necessary to rise the volume too much, or otherwise the music gets obscured by noise (and roads are naturally noisy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd strongly discourage earphone usage while riding a bike. A better option would be to use some handlebar-mounted speaker system that play radio or mp3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T19:03:50.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-06T20:43:27.953" Score="2" ViewCount="1912" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this Shimano &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woollyhatshop.com/Chain-and-Cassette-Deals/Chain-amp-Cassette-Deals-8-Speed/Shimano-Acera-8-Speed-Cassette-11/32-CSHG418132-HG40-Chain-Combo-Deal/prod_4994.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Acera 8-speed cassette and chain&lt;/a&gt; compatible with a Shimano Deore 8-speed rear derailleur on my mountain bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4480" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-07T17:27:54.217" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T17:27:54.217" Title="Is an Acera cassette compatible with an 8-speed Deore rear derailleur?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10216" CreationDate="2012-07-06T22:57:47.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on where you're riding.  If you're riding in situations where you do not need to be aware of automobile sounds (quiet side streets, broad bike paths, etc) then it's probably OK.  But in traffic, or on a narrow bike path where you'll need to hear the cyclist behind you call out &quot;On your left&quot;, I'd strongly advise against it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T22:57:47.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10220" CreationDate="2012-07-07T00:20:44.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the Acera 8-speed cassette that you link to should be compatible with an 8-speed Deore deailleur and shifters. The main compatibility issue is the spacing of sprockets, which changes with the number of sprockets and can vary between manufacturers. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cassette spacing cribsheet&lt;/a&gt; details the spacing for 8-speed Shimano cassettes, which should be the same for both Deore and Acera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should also mention that a cassette with a large maximum sprocket could be incompatible with some derailleurs, but this Acera cassette has a maximum sprocket size that is typical for a mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-07T13:59:35.100" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T13:59:35.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10224" CreationDate="2012-07-07T00:53:00.060" Score="6" ViewCount="2888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new bicycle. While I was fiddling with things (removing tags, mounting a light, etc.) I noticed that the boot on the rear brake cable was loose. When trying to reseat it, I found that one of the strands of the brake cable was broken, and poking through the boot. Furthermore, the cable is un-twisted just before the bolt that clamps it to the right side of the brake. These seem like very bad things to me which I should immediately get fixed (and complain about). Am I correct? Is the bike unsafe to ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jVpvh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p0KPZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1789" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T03:22:33.567" Title="How bad is this broken brake cable strand?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;damage&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10223" CreationDate="2012-07-07T01:00:05.950" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say that a single broken strand on a new brake cable would render the bike &quot;totally unsafe to ride,&quot; but if it is an option you should bring it back to the shop and have them replace it. This might be a sign that whoever put this bike together or inspected it for sale doesn't have a very thorough shop ethic. If they were careless enough to install a brake cable incorrectly, there may be other - more serious - oversights which can add up rather unpredictably. Not totally unsafe, but not ideal for a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, brake cables are cheap and should be replaced at regular intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T01:00:05.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10223" CreationDate="2012-07-07T02:23:26.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks to me like an overtightened bolt. See how the cable has spread out under the bolt? That means more strands have probably been damaged. The problem is not that one strand has broken, but that more strands will break in short order. So yes, do something about it soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky you'll be able to wind the barrel adjuster on the brake lever in and use the same cable, as anyone lazy enough to leave a cable like that on the bike might well be lazy enough to not wind the adjuster in. But I wouldn't bet on it, and either way it's safer to bin the cable and put a new one on, since you won't have much cable left after the fastening bolt which is not ideal (there's a short, sharp end that's hard to get an end cap on and the cap will be poking out at an annoying angle, or without the cap there's lots of sharp ends on the exposed strands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also gives you a change to see what the shop you bought from is like with warranty service issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T02:23:26.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10207" CreationDate="2012-07-07T02:46:54.697" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try to answer the question about &lt;strong&gt;WHY&lt;/strong&gt; are bicycles are considered vehicles rather than listing the multitudinous local laws that say as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The justifications that I see are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bicycle is a transport machine, therefore a vehicle. Tautologically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cyclists behave like other vehicle users. They generally travel faster than pedestrians, are less maneuverable and weigh more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;treating cyclists as pedestrians would lead to silliness, like people riding bikes inside buildings and pedestrian malls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;without laws cyclists generally act much more like vehicle users than pedestrians. They ride on the road, they travel in straight lines, they load more onto their bicycle than they could carry without it, they abuse pedestrians for being slow and moving randomly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically I expect it's because bicycles are machines and they behave more like other vehicles than they do pure pedestrians. I suspect the law developed in most countries in a simlar way to the UK as described by Tom77 &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/10211/3582&quot;&gt;in his answer&lt;/a&gt;. Originally power came from people and draft animals and the speed range was between ox carts and galloping horse riders. But a galloping horse is a fragile thing, so riders tended to be careful because if the horse falls the rider is likely to die. Note that this is the opposite to a motor vehicle hitting a pedestrian. But a horse at a walk or trot can move off the road and walk around a relatively slow-moving pedestrian or cart. So you had the pragmatic situation that pedestrians were expected to move out of the way of horses, everyone waited to pass carts until it was physically possible, and important people yelled a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that the formalisation went &quot;the faster you go the more you have to avoid other road users. This is therefore the law&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T02:46:54.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10223" CreationDate="2012-07-07T03:22:33.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's nothing structurally wrong, but whoever put the bike together (likely at the bike shop) was a little sloppy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is perfectly safe to ride, and the durability of the cable is not seriously impacted.  You'd need to have about half the strands in the cable broken before its integrity was at any risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, contrary to what Kohi said, the bolt is not overtightened.  It's normal for the cable to spread out like that when compressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T03:22:33.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10050" CreationDate="2012-07-07T03:38:53.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;sounds like your aggravating your sciatic nerve.  It can cause numbness on the way down to the foot.  If you have lower back issues, it can do the same, but you said complete numbness.  The sciatic nerve would only cause numbness and/or pain on the outside of your leg and foot.  A disc problem could cause complete numbness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4482" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T03:38:53.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9969" CreationDate="2012-07-07T03:54:24.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tiredness and weight loss.  Your running on empty, definitely seems like you don't have enough calories vs. what you expend throughout your day. Calorie dense carbs and the right amount of protein is important, you can to retain your muscle mass.  Nut butters, potatoes, beans, etc.  Also a visit to check in with your doctor and a nutritionist to discuss a good food plan to keep you fueled throughout the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4482" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T03:54:24.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10233" CreationDate="2012-07-07T07:32:07.890" Score="26" ViewCount="13919" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the tour riders are doing time trials, they ride their super aerodynamic, aggressively positioned bikes for maximum efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on normal stages, there are many cyclists who could also benefit from the greater aerodynamic efficiency. Any riders at the front of the peleton or any cyclists on the breakaway would gain a great deal from having their TT bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't even think of any downsides, given that with electronic gears they can have duplicate shifter buttons on the aero bars and the bullhorns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don't they use their TT bikes all the time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T00:14:49.070" Title="Why don't Tour de France riders always ride their TT bikes?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10231" CreationDate="2012-07-07T12:31:30.537" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason is because they are not legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UCI rules states that (Technical regulations for bicycles, a practical guide to implementation, comments on article 1.3.022):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only the traditional type of handlebars is authorised for use in massed-start road races [...]. The attachment of any additional handlebar component or extension is prohibited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are not legal mainly for safety reasons. Normally, the brake levers on a TT bike are positioned at the &quot;normal handlebar&quot; while the gears are positioned at the extension bars. The result of that configuration is that you can not brake while in the more aerodynamically position, which makes it extremely dangerous to ride such bikes in the peloton.&#xA;It is also easier to wobble around, you don't have the same stability when riding in the aerodynamically position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T12:31:30.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10231" CreationDate="2012-07-07T12:35:06.113" Score="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 good reasons for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, a TT bike is the most efficient machine for flat, fast course racing, where there are a minimum of hills. It is not the most efficient machine when it comes to climbing. The body position is far too aggressive for even professional athletes to use in a non-TT style event. A bike with more a more upright body position, a more stable weight distribution, a lighter frame, and far, far lighter wheels, is a more efficient choice for that style of ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, a TT bike sacrifices bike handling for that extreme power and aero efficiency. The TT stages are controlled events, where there are either one rider, or one team on the course at a time, and so limitations on stability and handling are acceptable. Take the same bike in a 150 rider peloton, where riders constantly jockey for position, and where even on a stable bike losing focus for 1 second can cause a major crash, and all of a sudden, those same sacrifices in bike handling and stability are no longer a benefit for the rider or the team. They become a hazard to the team's chances of winning. And not just for the stage or the day, since a bad crash can take a rider out for the season. Or God forbid, permanently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these reasons, the UCI has seen fit to ban the bikes in non-TT events, in order to ensure rider safety. And for once, their decision makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T06:15:05.203" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T06:15:05.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10237" CreationDate="2012-07-07T17:37:50.463" Score="18" ViewCount="26010" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming a steerer/fork/brake/cable setup that does not rely on the stem facing forward: is it safe to point a stem backwards as a way to reduce seat-to-bar reach (i.e. as a way to 'fit' a too-large bike to a smaller/shorter person)? If not, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T05:48:23.373" Title="Is reversing the stem (pointing it backwards) a safe way to reduce reach length?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="19" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10236" CreationDate="2012-07-07T17:44:53.283" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it would not be particularly safe. The steering would get extremely twitchy and difficult to handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T17:44:53.283" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10236" CreationDate="2012-07-07T17:59:28.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The handling issues would depend on the rider's common hand positions vs the steering axis.  Generally the hand positions for most stability would have the hands forward of the axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T17:59:28.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10236" CreationDate="2012-07-07T23:29:50.560" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the BMX world, they use minimum offset or zero offset necks for flatland. The minimum offset options allow you shorter reach without causing problems being backwards. These are some options (the neck/bar combo might not help, but it was shown as examples of options that exist)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture you see a zero offset zero angle bar-neck combo, a minimum offset S&amp;amp;M neck and a Kore neck on a Morales:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EVGF1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T23:29:50.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10236" CreationDate="2012-07-08T00:10:33.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steering issues aside, I would think that even if you got the reach aspect of the bike to work like this, there would be many other problems with the fit of the bike.  Could you even stand safely over the top bar? Could you drop the seat low enough to reach the pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the headtube and stem are usually slightly angled.  On a mountain bike or especially a road bike, you probably wouldn't have much movement available, as I think the handle bars would meet up with the top bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T00:10:33.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4933" CreationDate="2012-07-08T02:41:36.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, about a year ago, I got A shimano Alfine 11 Speed . . . thing didn't even last 700 miles!!!!!  (Several of the gears don't even engage . . . at first, thought the chain broke.)  And Shimano doesn't even service it.  Also have a Rohloff, with nearly 19,000 miles, no problems so far.  'Nough said!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3675" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T02:41:36.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1952" CreationDate="2012-07-08T08:47:49.273" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the above answers are seriously off in their estimation of the effect it will have on your speed. Going from semi-slick tires, like the ones pictured, to even very narrow slick tires will not improve your averages by more than 1-2 km/h. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of rolling resistance on pavement is not &quot;huge&quot;, it's dwarfed by air resistance, especially at higher speeds (air resistance increases in proportion to the square of speed, while rolling resistance increases linearly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to plug different rolling resistances into this model to see how little effect it will have on your average speed (and since you are on a trekking bike, your position's frontal area will be definitely closer to 0.7 than 0.4):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.analyticcycling.com/ForcesSpeed_Page.html&quot;&gt;http://www.analyticcycling.com/ForcesSpeed_Page.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T08:47:49.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-08T17:46:15.950" Score="2" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Prologue&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cycle in Toronto, Canada: which has wide straight roads, bike lanes, bike paths, no traffic on residential roads etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brother lives near Brixton: he doesn't cycle himself, and says that it would be too dangerous ... that people do cycle, but are killed too often, squeezed against a railing by a lorry for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked him if he'd tried &quot;Boris bikes&quot; and he said that those don't exist in Brixton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have driven cars in London, but not cycled. I commute in Toronto so I'm used to &quot;vehicular cycling&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd expect to use something like a $800 'hybrid' bike, with straight-out handlebars and touring tires and great brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I know about cycling in London?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Details&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, answers to any of the following might be useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What's your strategy for getting from A to B: how do you navigate? Is there a list of suggested cycle routes? Is there a 'hidden London', e.g. cycle paths along canals or railways, which motorists or even pedestrians wouldn't know about?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How far can you go in a hour of cycling, starting e.g. from Brixton: what's the average km/hour in traffic?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you behave on a bicycle as if you were a small moped, i.e. if you &quot;own&quot; the lane you're in etc., is that safe enough?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there specific dangers (intersections, lane changes, traffic and others drivers, other obstacles) which a cyclist who is new to London ought to beware?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is everywhere in London safe to cycle, or should you avoid certain areas of town or certain types of road?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What about not getting your bike stolen? Is a &quot;New York&quot; U-lock on the frame combined with pin-head locks on the wheels enough?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="11011" LastEditDate="2014-04-21T19:16:42.347" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T13:04:11.830" Title="What is different about cycling in London?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;london&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-08T17:59:22.913" Score="21" ViewCount="6991" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Toronto when the temperature goes above 30 degrees Celcius (90 degrees Farenheit), for a few days and without wind, there is smog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the smog irritates and makes it difficult to breathe in through my nose. Worse, if I breathe in though my mouth instead of my nose then it hurts my bronchial tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related question is, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2170/1097&quot;&gt;Is pollution a problem in urban cycling?&lt;/a&gt; - which says that it is a problem, but doesn't ask whether a mask or other anti-pollution measure is effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might a mask help me for this situation, i.e. breathing on the hottest days? Are they effective and are they usable? If so what type or brands or models should I look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T15:01:55.083" Title="Are anti-pollution masks effective?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;pollution&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10244" CreationDate="2012-07-08T20:41:52.000" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The roads in London aren't particularly special, they can be quite busy, they are often quite full of motorised traffic, cyclists don't always have the best reputation for adhering to all laws (e.g. one-way streets and red lights) and, as a consequence, many other road users don't always go out of their way to be overly friendly or forgiving, but it's a great place to get around by bike and, especially to an experienced rider, there's nothing particular to worry about: keep your eyes open, your ears alert and your wits about you, obey the old adage &quot;&lt;em&gt;assume they're all out to get you&lt;/em&gt;&quot; and you'll be ok! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;London's a big city, the road network is comprehensive, and within most of inner London, e.g. within 4-5 miles of the City or Westminster, very few roads would be considered as totally unsuitable for bikes. Look out for the 'cycle superhighways' - while they aren't wonderfully designed, they attract a good amount of cycle traffic, which means you'll generally find more cyclists on those routes - definite strength in numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an increasing, if not a single bike culture, then certainly an expectation of a wide range of cyclists at all hours of the day or night: couriers, commuters, road warriors, boris bikes, fixies, lycra louts and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're used to practicing 'vehicular' cycling, you'll fit in reasonably well - there is plenty of that around. Even if you obey every traffic signal there's no reason why you can't average well over 17 or 18 mph if you're capable of such speed ... (My commute is just over 10 miles into the centre and I'm almost always able to do it in less than 40 minutes.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of route planning: you could use &lt;a href=&quot;http://tfl.gov.uk&quot;&gt;http://tfl.gov.uk&lt;/a&gt; - they have a planner with cycling as an option. Generally though, take a look at a map, draw a line from A to B and just go. There are some canal paths and genuine bike only routes, but on the whole, what cycle routes there are are along quieter roads, which can be safer, but a lot more circuitous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few good London blogs (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclelondoncity.blogspot.com/&quot;&gt;http://cyclelondoncity.blogspot.com/&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/&quot;&gt;http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://ibikelondon.blogspot.com/&quot;&gt;http://ibikelondon.blogspot.com/&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://velo-city-girl.blogspot.com/&quot;&gt;http://velo-city-girl.blogspot.com/&lt;/a&gt; amongst many others) which will help to give you a more local flavour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T20:41:52.000" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10250" CreationDate="2012-07-08T21:43:06.880" Score="-2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many major cities now have bike sharing schemes, and each seems to have its own system of rates, designed to encourage shorter rides and quick returns; but it's hard to compare them. Is there a reference somewhere that draws direct comparisons among the pricing schemes for the major bike sharing systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T00:10:48.617" Title="How do the pricing structures of various bike sharing schemes compare?" Tags="&lt;price&gt;&lt;sharing-scheme&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-07-09T12:39:05.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10248" CreationDate="2012-07-08T23:17:34.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick Google brought up &lt;a href=&quot;http://transportationnation.org/2012/05/09/what-bike-share-costs-a-comparative-chart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt;. It shows a list of prices for bike sharing rates in 10 cities around the world.   It shows prices for various lengths of time that you can rent/borrow the bike for. In most places, the first 30 minutes (sometimes 45 minutes) are free, if you pay for a small yearly membership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T23:17:34.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10248" CreationDate="2012-07-09T00:10:48.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the large cycle hire schemes offer several plans and for each, the cost of a ride depends on the length of the ride, as well as the number of rides during the period covered by the plan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming 2 rides on 24 hour pass, some example plans stack up like this, for rides of up to 2 hours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRXxC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here and in subsequent figures, four systems are shown, London's, Boston's, New York's and Washington DC's, represented by the livery color used by each — light, Barclay's blue for London, Hubway green for Boston, dark &quot;citi&quot; blue for New York, and red for Washington DC. Solid lines are for single day plans, while thin dashed lines are for example annual plans, assuming 50 rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that's clear is that — not surprisingly — cost goes up with duration. The second is that plans have similar structures, in which costs go up in steps, typically at 30 minute intervals. More surprisingly, perhaps, is the significant difference in cost, with New York being most and London being least expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This figure is a bit misleading though, since all of these systems are designed for short rides of generally less than 30 minutes, and certainly less than an hour. Focusing on these gives a better picture of actual scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYHum.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both if these figures though conceal a misconception about the pricing schemes that all of these systems use: that they discourage long rides. This is really only partly true, and only true, as it were, &quot;in steps&quot;, as one can clearly see by looking at the cost per minute, for &quot;rides&quot; of up to 24 hours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0VQQw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, some odd features are exposed, notably the leveling off of cost per minute, the jump in average cost in London (from being cheapest, to matching New York's most expensive), and the long &lt;em&gt;decline&lt;/em&gt; in some cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, it's most useful to focus on short rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzi59.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over this range the outstanding feature is the rise and fall of per minute cost, the initially very high cost per minute, and, again, the large difference in cost between systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T00:10:48.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10189" CreationDate="2012-07-09T01:15:14.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have your message printed on either&#xA;a) a tarp like material, put eyelets on the edges and use cable ties to attach it to your frame&#xA;b) a plastic laminate billboard with a hollow core&#xA;like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pp-sheet.com/PP-Billboard-c65.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pp-sheet.com/PP-Billboard-c65.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea would be to carry a flag on a pole attached to the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4441" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T01:15:14.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10245" CreationDate="2012-07-09T20:36:16.853" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get this question once in a while (working in Danish Cyclist Federation). It seems to be based on the idea that commuting by bike will expose you to more pollution than commuting by car. I have seen no research that proves this. However, I have seen research indicating that the opposite might be true. Some was in danish, but here's some in english and french (links to pdf's at the end of this article): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pollution-china.com/Blog/More-exposed-to-pollution-in-a-car.html&quot;&gt;http://www.pollution-china.com/Blog/More-exposed-to-pollution-in-a-car.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also consider the possible danger of wearing a mask while being physically active. There has been little research in this field that I'm aware of but there could be a risk of creating negative pressure by obstructing the airway which has been known in some cases to produce pulmonary edema. We (again Danish Cyclist Federation) sent some masks to some danish specialists who concluded that the risk was very small, but since pulmonary edema is a very serious thing, I still want to lead your attention to this. Maybe you can find some research (I would be interested to hear about it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that if the research on &quot;in-car pollution&quot; vs &quot;on-bike pollution&quot; cited above is true it is much more important for car drivers to consider wearing a mask than it is for bicycle commuters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of this comes all the additional beneficial factors that bike commuting produces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4497" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T20:36:16.853" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10245" CreationDate="2012-07-09T22:31:01.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer this question (which is different from asking &quot;Which mask?&quot;) you have to define what &quot;pollution&quot; means and then examine the available masks to see if they do anything to reduce it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just offhand, I believe that &quot;pollution&quot;, in an urban traffic setting, consists of carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide (and various other sulfur compounds), nitric/nitrous oxide (and various other nitrogen compounds), and soot (which contains a significant amount of unburned hydrocarbons).  (Lead used to be a significant component of exhaust but is no longer, with unleaded gasoline.)  Of these, only the soot is really &quot;visible&quot;, while the sulfur and nitrogen compounds can contribute to &quot;yellow haze&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple filter mask will remove only the soot (if that).  You need a mask containing at least a reasonable layer of activated charcoal (ie, a canister) to remove much of the others.  The masks I see advertised just have a thin layer of &quot;activated charcoal cloth&quot; or some such, not enough to make a noticeable difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unable to find any evidence of rigorous testing of these masks anywhere -- by the manufacturers or independent bodies.  They do test for particulate filtering, but that's of minimal value, and, besides, you can buy (much) cheaper particulate filters if you skip the &quot;pollution&quot; moniker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T22:31:01.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10244" CreationDate="2012-07-10T13:11:54.837" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a slightly seperate tack from Unsliced (who covered all the bike-specific stuff I can think of): the road layouts themselves may be quite different than you're used to, even if you're familiar driving in the rest of the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are often:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very busy, in terms of traffic: on the plus side, the traffic is often not moving very fast, and if it's stationary you can often filter.  Judging when to depart from vehicular positioning, and how and when to rejoin it, needs some thought though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very busy, in terms of street furniture and signage: be particularly careful of your positioning around lane merge/filters, &quot;traffic-calming&quot; measures such as chicanes and speed-bumps (it's easy to get squeezed over to the side, or to find people trying a risky overtake to get past you before a bottleneck)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;irregularly and sometimes confusingly layed-out: try to read mandatory turn lanes and direction signs as far in advance as possible, and get into the right lane.  This interacts with high traffic volumes to make late, sudden lane-changes extremely unpopular (but be careful of drivers and other cyclists doing it anyway)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhat location-specific dangers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;black cabs are usually decent drivers IME (they have a strong interest in keeping their cab roadworthy), and generally have good situational awareness insofar as they have to keep an eye out for fares.  By the same token, if a pedestrian flags one down (or passenger asks to stop), they may swerve sharply for the kerb and only optionally indicate: undertake or filter up the inside only with care&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;private hire cabs on the other hand (licensed minicabs which must generally be booked rather than hailed on the street) are very variable: this roundel &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MhRt5.png&quot; alt=&quot;private hire roundel&quot;&gt; indicates a driver who may be paying more attention to a satnav than to the road or mirrors, may be rushing to make a booking, and should probably be given extra space&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bus lanes are generally open to cyclists (and black cabs), but of course buses do stop fairly often: never undertake, and if you overtake a stopped bus try either to take the next lane or proceed with some caution: passengers often get off a bus and then step out immediately in front of it to see if the road is clear to cross&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;narrow marked cycle lanes on the inside are cunningly designed to lure you to into the blind spots of left-turning heavy vehicles; they're best avoided unless you're filtering past stationary traffic and are sure there's somewhere worth getting to at the front.  The dashed line marking the lane is a reasonable guide to secondary position though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://london.cyclestreets.net/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cyclestreets&lt;/a&gt; is worth a try for route planning too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastEditorUserId="3311" LastEditDate="2012-07-11T22:38:35.910" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T22:38:35.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10258" CreationDate="2012-07-10T20:14:42.427" Score="3" ViewCount="3646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to make a custom fixie bike (possibly with a front brake) that I will use to race on tracks and even commute with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at a Planet X frame, and they seem to have very high quality frames for decent prices.  But I am not sure if I should get the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.planet-x-usa.com/pPCTRKFRMST/Planet-X-Pro-Carbon-Track-Frameset.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;track frame&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.planet-x-usa.com/pPCTTFRMST/Planet-X-Stealth-Pro-Carbon-TTTriathlon-Frameset.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;time trial frame&lt;/a&gt;.  What are the differences between these style of frames?  The time trial frame is $150 more than the track frame, is it actually that much better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to put time trial handlebars on the bike.  I also plan to use a belt instead of a chain to cut down on weight and maintenance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastEditorUserId="4446" LastEditDate="2012-07-10T22:52:31.040" LastActivityDate="2019-05-24T13:35:30.500" Title="Difference between &quot;Track Frame set&quot; and a &quot;TimeTrial/Triathalon frame set&quot;" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10255" CreationDate="2012-07-10T20:44:24.050" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two very different animals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TT frame is built up with road components, the brake handles and shifters are a bit different but the front/rear derailleurs, crank, etc are all regular road components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The track frame is a single speed frame and many do not have holes to mount brakes...for Planet X you'll have to ask if the fork does or does not have them... there are no pictures or specs on the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belt vs Chain : you need a custom frame for this (or the ability to customize the frame) as belts don't break like chains do. In frames made for belts, there is usually a piece that unscrews to reveal a gap in the wheel stays. On some CrMo or Aluminum frames you could probably do the customization, but I'd be hesitant to try this on a carbon frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-07-11T12:58:17.013" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T12:58:17.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10255" CreationDate="2012-07-10T20:53:41.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your purposes, the biggest difference is the rear dropout (where the rear axle connects). The track bike will be much easier to set up as a fixie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the pricing difference has to do with features like bottle bosses, attachment point for derailer, cable routing stuff, etc, not from the TT frame being &quot;better&quot; in any other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TT frame has a vertical dropout, designed for a bike with a rear derailer. The track frame has a rear-facing horizontal dropout. If you want to set the bike up as a fixie, you need some way to tension the chain. With a horizontal dropout chain-tensioning is relatively straightforward. With a vertical dropout, you'll have to use a chain tensioner or something else to take up the chain slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The geometries are different. The TT has a top tube about 1cm shorter in the same frame sizes. They have different angles which affects handling. Basically, the TT is a better geometry for TT-style bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both frames are better for what they're made for. The TT frame is better as a geared bike with TT bars, the track frame is better as a fixed-gear bike with drop bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless they're hiding something pretty well, you won't be able to put a belt onto either bike. A belt requires that there be a reconnectable split in the rear triangle on the drive side of the bike (I've seen it in the dropout and in the seat stay, but it could be in the chain stay, too). If you're racing, you may want to reconsider the belt drive idea, anyways. I've heard belt drives tend to have a subtle &quot;squishiness&quot; to them (from the material coating the carbon compressing) that's annoying when you're trying to push hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T20:53:41.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10255" CreationDate="2012-07-10T21:03:16.707" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem like you want three different bikes all smashed up into one, and the result is not going to be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the time trial frame is not intended to be a track frame. If you're going to race at the track, use a frame and components that are designed for the track. For starters, the time trial frame will have a lower bottom bracket, dramatically increasing your likelihood of a pedal strike, which can be disastrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, bikes at the velodrome are not allowed to have brakes. Period. You will also likely not even be able to mount brakes on the Planet X Track frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, a belt drive won't really improve the reliability of a track bike. Track bikes use &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; thicker chains due to not having to fit between tightly-packed cogs in a rear cassette. Having raced a few years at velodromes, I have yet to see anyone snap a chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth, you probably won't even be able to install a belt drive. Belts can't be disconnected/reconnected like chains can, so you will have no way to route the belt through the frame to mount it around the chainring and cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fifth, aero bars are explicitly disallowed from any mass-start events at the velodrome. Unless you only plan on riding pursuits, you will need standard drop handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice? Save the creativity for your second bike. The fact that you have to ask this question tells me it's probably your first build, and you're very likely to end up with a frankenbike that's not actually what you were hoping, not race legal, and likely not even possible to build given the requirements / parts you've named.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2012-07-10T21:08:27.503" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T21:08:27.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10260" CreationDate="2012-07-11T13:58:38.273" Score="9" ViewCount="10727" Body="&lt;p&gt;What could be the relation between a bicycle's inner tube getting punctured and the pressure of the tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they directly proportional? I.e, if the pressure of Bicycle tube is higher then it has higher chance of getting punctured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4509" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2012-07-11T14:28:47.317" LastActivityDate="2019-07-23T23:37:57.493" Title="Relationship between punctures and tube pressure" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10259" CreationDate="2012-07-11T14:27:09.750" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not going to be directly proportional. Leaving aside the quality of the tyre and what it will be rated for, the shape of the graph is likely to be a U shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at the lower pressures the tube will be susceptible to puncture because it cannot repel sharps adequately, in addition really low pressures might let you trap the tube between the road and the rim.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as the pressure increases, the tube and tyre will combine to actively repel sharps: the external object will need more and more pressure and exertion to break through, so becomes less and less likely to be able to do so &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at some point, though, the tube's pressure becomes so high, that the risk of a blowout increases: flaws in the tyre, the tube, especially around the valve, are more likely to be exploited, also that collisions e.g. with potholes, will be harder to accommodate. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not going to be as simple as that, but might work as a general rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2012-07-11T15:22:54.503" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T15:22:54.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2012-07-11T14:33:20.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hand pump is more fitness friendly, remember that when you cycle you use much more your legs than your arms, so when you get a flat please give you arm muscles a chance to workout a little bit as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4510" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T14:33:20.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10264" CreationDate="2012-07-11T16:49:44.727" Score="14" ViewCount="30976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to ride on some trials that have very soft sand and especially agitated by ATVs.  When I hit a soft patch my front tire pulls in one direction and I freak out a little.  I cannot seem to plow through it and ultimately just end up moving slower and slower, which than leads to a full stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some trick or style to riding on these trails?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-11T17:31:52.420" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T14:05:10.647" Title="What is the trick to riding on sand?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10259" CreationDate="2012-07-11T16:59:44.537" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pressure has little effect on flats caused by sharp objects. Tire construction prevails here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have effect a big effect on pinch flats. The more pressure in your tire, the less it will deform when you hit a bump (or the very evil train tracks). If if can't deform enough to pinch the tube, no flat. As the pressure decreases, the amount of force required to pinch also decreases. I'll drop some pressure for rainy wet roads, but I'll be more careful about things that go bump when I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, don't exceed the manufacture's (both tire and rim) max or min pressure. Worth keeping in mind that 110 lbs put in during the cool morning will be quite a bit higher as the sun beats halfway through a four hour ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, your tube can lose pressure for many reasons as well. Fill it during a flat change with CO2 during a hot day and you may notice it being really low the next morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire pressure, should be checked prior to each ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T16:59:44.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10262" CreationDate="2012-07-11T17:04:59.447" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there is one main trick, and some regular skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is: if you LOWER THE TIRE PRESSURE, any tire will float over sand like magic. It should not be so underinflated as to allow easy pinch flats, but the lower the pressure, the more marked the floating effect. There are just two limitations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the tire is skinny (low volume) it might not be possible to have a pressure level that allows flotation AND safe riding over rough terrain on other trail sections;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not possible to adjust tire pressure &quot;on the fly&quot; ;o)  But if you know you're having a long stretch of soft terrain, it's possible to have a good trade-off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, huge tires (2.3 +) are perfect for that (watch this &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/LRb2hNo6drQ&quot;&gt;Surly Pugsley&lt;/a&gt; video). Also, knobby doesn't help that much, sometimes slicks are better; they cause less shearing of the sand and rob you of less kinetic energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the skills are mostly help maintain speed and direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed: not so fast as to suddenly throw you over the bars in case of loss of control, not so slow that your rear wheel loses traction in order to maintain or recover speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Direction: plan ahead the smoothest possible trajectory, and point your front wheel firmly along that trajectory. Avoid wobbling on the pedals, major gear changes, and specially avoid sharp turns, because there is a critical steering angle above which the front tire skids sideways and the bike becomes unstable, making it almost impossible to regain control in some cases (of course the more skill one has, the more one can recover from).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps and... PRACTICE! Few things can be more fun than that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-07-11T17:53:38.010" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T17:53:38.010" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-11T18:18:19.413" Score="1" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;anyone know where or how I can get a rubber insert for either presta or schrader head on my joe blow max floor pump? Just bought it and schrader head did NOT have an insert so it won't grab the valve. Is this a Topeak product? Would Topeak send me one??&#xA;Mike&#xA;Cambridge, MA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4511" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T15:31:38.567" Title="Joe Blow pump extra parts" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-11T22:18:40.077" Score="10" ViewCount="879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently use a mountain bike to commute to work but I am keen to switch to a bike more suited to commuting. I have been looking at road and cyclecross bikes but I am concerned the more horizontal seating position of these sorts of bikes would cause issue with my glasses; specifically, I would end up peering over the top of my lenses rather than through them. Is this a common problem? Do I need to worry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2243" LastEditorUserId="2362" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T15:33:21.913" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T15:11:04.690" Title="Would the seating position of a road bike cause issues with prescription glasses" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10266" CreationDate="2012-07-11T22:33:24.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of this being a problem for anyone... but I admittedly stick to the more upright-seated end of the bicycle continuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you try before you buy, of course, but you may also wish to look for a bike with a longer stem, so that if you find you have this trouble, you can raise your handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes should actually be a bit more forgiving of an upright stance than straight-up roadbikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T22:33:24.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10266" CreationDate="2012-07-11T22:33:52.263" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, in most cases normal prescription glasses sit too low on the nose for the purpose of shielding the eyes in road bike position. And as the speed increases, the need for effective eye protection grows, too. Consider either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Getting contact lenses, and then you can wear bike specific glasses&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Getting bike glasses with prescription lens inserts. In my experience, they are somewhat awkward to handle and not all optometrists will undertake fitting the lenses to what they perceive as nonstandard frames.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T22:33:52.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8716" CreationDate="2012-07-11T23:15:52.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Avenir 3D rubber grips on my cruiser bar: Vodka :)  Just a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;splash&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; inside the grips, wriggle them on, and let excess drain outside the end hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4513" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T23:15:52.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-12T02:05:48.720" Score="6" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a nexus 8-speed internal hub on a Civia Kingfield bike. It keeps getting misaligned -- the dots on the bottom don't line up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I have successfully adjusted it using the barrel adjuster, and it would work great again for a few months. I attributed the misalignment to cable stretch. However the past two times I did this, it quickly became misaligned again, and now the barrel adjuster is so stiff I can't turn it with my fingers in either direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to the shop and they claimed there was dirt in the barrel adjuster and they said they cleaned it out, and they had adjusted it again so the dots lined up. The barrel adjuster turned easily again immediately after they did this. 100 miles later, and it's horribly misaligned again, and the barrel adjuster won't turn again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the latest misalignment happened quite suddenly to me today. It was riding pretty well, a skip here or there but very rare, and then suddenly became completely terrible; no gear &quot;sticks&quot; any more, and the dots are quite far apart on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what's up? I am thinking I probably need a new cable and new housing, however when I mentioned that to the shop they said the cable was fine (though I have no idea how they checked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has about 2000 miles on it and only minor maintenance has been done so far (wheel truing, previously mentioned barrel adjustments, new brake pads, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4514" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:12:29.930" Title="Nexus hub keeps getting misaligned" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10266" CreationDate="2012-07-12T02:53:42.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eyeglasses, particularly those with relatively &quot;low profile&quot; lenses, will cause problems in an extreme aero crouch position.  So it depends on the specifics of your glasses, the bike, and your usual riding position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm extremely nearsighted and wear glasses that are about midway on the round/low-profile axis.  I ride a touring bike (ie, a road frame) with a relatively high drop bar.  On the hoods I have little trouble with my glasses.  On the drops (which I rarely use) I have to tilt my head up a fair amount to see through the lenses, but can when needed.  (I can generally see adequately to steer when peeking over the tops of my glasses.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bigger problem is seeing through the glasses AND my helmet mirror at the same time.  Requires careful positioning of my mirror and some twisting of the head to see behind adequately while on the hoods, and it's a lost cause while on the drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that using a &quot;Croakie&quot; eyeglass strap helps a lot by keeping my glasses from sliding down my nose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T03:09:51.957" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T03:09:51.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10266" CreationDate="2012-07-12T02:58:02.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ordinary prescription glasses are sufficient but suboptimal. Although I agree that the best answer is to get bike glasses with prescription lenses or contact lenses, waiting to get optimal eyewear is no reason to avoid using a road bike. I wear prescription glasses and have not yet budgeted for cycling glasses, but I have not had any major problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling glasses would make the biggest difference when you are riding above 20 mph. If you normally ride slower than this, or if you don't have the budget, then you can wait until later to get cycling glasses or goggles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several months ago, I finally switched to contact lenses, and they have made a huge difference. In particular, the wide field of view afforded by contacts with cycling glasses is much better than what I might hope for in all but the most expensive prescription cycling glasses. I believe that switching to contacts was much easier (and much cheaper) than trying to find prescription cycling goggles with a wide field of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still think it's better to ride than to wait for the perfect solution, but getting contacts and a decent pair of cycling glasses was surprisingly easy. I switched to contacts primarily because of cycling, and I'm glad I made the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-06-18T18:50:23.067" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T18:50:23.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-12T06:05:39.963" Score="3" ViewCount="6284" Body="&lt;p&gt;After injuring my neck, shoulder and arm on a fall from my bike I need the type of handlebar that you see more commonly on a cruiser bike.  ie that is one that gives you anupright sitting position.  My bikes are a Merida 100d and a Specialized Ariel.  Does anyone know of a handlebar the can fit these bikes.&#xA;Erin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4515" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T20:19:06.763" Title="Handlebars for an upright seated position" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10262" CreationDate="2012-07-12T06:40:32.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fatter tires and stand up. If you stay seated, the front tire will not be able to carry its weight and basically float, making it really hard to control. Growing up on the beach in Hawaii, I have had my fair share of riding in sand and found that the wet sand that the ocean just saturated is 30 times easier to ride on than dry sand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T06:40:32.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10274" CreationDate="2012-07-12T06:41:20.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can likely find bars the will fit, but keep in mind that you still want the bike to function which means moving over your shifters and brake levers. While you could probably do this as a DIY project, I'd really recommend going to a bike shop and at least getting some advice first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The can help you select a bar that is the right diameter to fit with your current stem and talk you through issues like re-cabling (longer bars probably mean longer cables) and where/how to mount shifters and brake levers. You might end up wanting to change brake levers to a different type depending on bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget the you still need to be able to get on and handle the bike. You will be doing some strange things with the center of rotation for the bars. At low speed (...i.e. the speed cruiser bikes that normally have these bars), this is probably not an issue. But you get up to high speed on a decent and you might find yourself in trouble. Start slow and see how it handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T06:41:20.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10262" CreationDate="2012-07-12T08:56:23.997" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have plenty of experiance in insanely soft sand.&#xA;Before you leave : &#xA;   29er, wide tyres, low pressure. BUT Low preasure costs when you get back onto hard stuff, as do insanely wide tyres.  I set the bike up to go well on the hard stuff, and pay the price on the soft sections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the track : &#xA;Riding style is Weight Back, Very high cadence, great balance and steer with weight shifts rather than handlebar movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It VERY quickly becomes faster, easier and more efficent to dismount and run/carry bike. The only reason to ride soft sand to prove you can and get fit fast. If the tracks are mostly soft sand (and you are like me - out to have fun), find better tracks, as it's not much fun after the novelty wears off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One big advantage, it's a soft landing when it all goes wrong &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T08:56:23.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10265" CreationDate="2012-07-12T13:35:06.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good bike shop that is a Topeak dealer will likely have parts for the pump. You can visit the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/WhereToBuy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak: Where to Buy&lt;/a&gt; page to find dealers in your area. Or contact &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/Service/usa_customer_service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Customer Service&lt;/a&gt; - they may just send you the parts for a minimal shipping charge or free; other companies have done that for me in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4501" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T15:31:38.567" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T15:31:38.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10274" CreationDate="2012-07-12T13:41:34.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest thing to do would be swap the stem for one that gets your handlebar taller, say some 5 inches taller at least, perhaps preferrably more. This would allow you to keep your current &quot;cockpit&quot;, with grips and levers and shifters etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't find the taller stem (I've had a hard time finding really tall stems at the shops), I would suggest a BMX handlebar, since they get your hands much higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note is: when you raise your hands and torso, the body weight gets shifted so that there's less weight on the front wheel, which might affect handling making the bike a bit more unstable and prone to unwanted wheelies uphill. In this case, a BMX handlebar can be more adjustable because by rotating it in the stem you can adjust reach to get a good weight-balance and steering behaviour. The downside is the torque BMX handlebars apply on the stem, which usually is not a problem if you don't ride aggressively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final note on the BMX handlebar: some shifters don't fit well around the curves of the handlebar, test it before buying, if you will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, cable and router lengths will most probably need to be replaced for longer ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T13:41:34.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-12T15:15:13.080" Score="0" ViewCount="1383" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone provide a brief list of some graded climbs in England, Scotland and Wales, please? I tackled a few hills some 30 years ago (as a tourist), which I thought were quite tough - would they be a challenge to a racing cyclist (at racing speeds)? Examples include Berriedale Brae, Carter Bar, Drumochter. I used granny gears and went very slooooowly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4521" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T09:04:25.093" Title="List of UK hill climbs" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;uk&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1590" CreationDate="2012-07-12T17:06:33.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an oldie, but a good question. Many would-be electric cyclist get a lot of misinformation from corporate marketing, insurance companies, governments, etc.. Because ebike technology is in its relative infancy (compared to say gas engine vehicles like a motorcycle) a lot has been learned in the last 5 years!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a very similar to setup to what the original poster mentioned (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.benswayne.com/hobbies/electric-cargo-bike&quot;&gt;Big Dummy Electric Bicycle&lt;/a&gt;) and have been riding it for over a year now to/from work as well as a half a dozen longer trips of 100km+ with total weight up towards that 400lbs mark you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now Gary has given you some good information regarding &lt;strong&gt;total power output&lt;/strong&gt; but not more specifics regarding voltage/amperage/windings/etc. The total power output will very likely be regulated by local laws to just slightly lower than what is reasonable for your application. That's just how it works today in most of the world for uninsured vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your choice in motor is more about how you use the maximum power output rather than selecting the power output. When a motor is manufactured a specific number of coils/turns of wire are wrapped around each pole in the motor of the appropriate thickness. By varying the number of turns and thickness of wire the same motor design can result in higher speeds or lower speeds. Most manufacturers will produce several common variations for targeting 20&quot;, 26&quot; and 29&quot; wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I setup my ebike, I bought the &quot;high speed&quot; motor winding. This is capable of propelling the bike up to 50km/h with a 26&quot; tire. Please note this will exceed the legal limit everywhere I know of in North America, so off road use only. I have a limiter built into my '&lt;a href=&quot;http://ebikes.ca/drainbrain.shtml&quot;&gt;Cycle Analyst&lt;/a&gt;' ebike computer which can then tone it down to the the legal limit for daily commutes (In Canada that's 32km/h 500W). The high speed motor scores high on the 'cool points' when you show it off to your friends, but you'll soon change your mind and wish you got the lower speed winding for daily efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower speed windings generally trade off speed for torque and/or thermal capacity (thicker wires - less likely to burn out on long uphill pulls). Also travelling at lower speeds will conserve battery power and allow you to make longer trips on the same battery. Wind resistance is not a linear force on your bike. For example on my bike maintaining 32km/h will take twice the power of maintaining 24 km/h, likewise maintaining 48-50km/h will take four times the power output (also exceeding most legal limitations). When hauling kids for a 4 minute 'drive', a steady pace of 20-24km/h is probably great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the related question here to motor selection is battery selection. Again you'll have a total capacity expressed as AH (amp-hours) which is the number of hours the battery would sustain a 1 amp draw. But equally important here is the voltage for the overall system. The most popular voltages are 24, 36 and 48 volts. 24 volts are usually under powered kits for heavily restricted European countries but is not really suitable for your application. 36v and 48v will be your primary choices. The voltage will be directly proportional to your maximum capable speed. Again I went with 48v when I built my ebike because its very 'cool' to show off the speed/torque. However, if I went with 36v system with a motor designed to max out at 32km/h at 36v I would have been more happy in the longer run from a practical viewpoint. That is because given the same size/weight of battery, a 36v battery will likely contain at least 25% more capacity (AH) as the 48v. This equates to longer run times or more distance between charges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again for practical use commuting with kids/trailers, you will be more interested in running a consistent reliable slightly slower electric bicycle than a 'hot rod' which burns through battery juice. So I would recommend a 36v motor/battery combination designed to just meet the maximum legal power output limits (Watts) for your local laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the electric-assist nay-sayers out there, I believe bicycles will make a big come back in north america during the next few decades as practical devices (not just sport). Bicycles are efficient, small and user maintainable in many cases. Electric assist enables us to do more with a bike within a &lt;em&gt;reasonable amount of time&lt;/em&gt;. Not everyone can afford to triple their commute times each day. I do recommend to everyone to improve their health, but most people need to move 400lbs around daily today and in a reasonable amount of time similar to driving. Electric assist does that. Plus electric assist bicycling is a &quot;gateway drug&quot; to other forms of bicycling! You'll find many people who own an electric assist bicycle also own other bikes for other less practical uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4523" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T17:06:33.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-12T18:33:35.790" Score="4" ViewCount="1119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding mountain bikes for over 20 years and am just going back to a road bike. I find the modern bars and hoods and combined levers a very strange position. I have actually loosened them and pushed levers further down bars to be more like a 60s or 70s brake position and redone the tape. I think perhaps I should have not done this and just got used to the modern position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am worried about braking. I was going down to the drop position to use the brakes and found this uncomfortable and a stretch. But I see some people use them with their hands on the hoods. Can you get full brake power in this position? Is it safe enough for going down big hills?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4524" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-16T19:44:06.590" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T19:44:06.590" Title="Do brakes provide full power when used from the hoods?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8702" CreationDate="2012-07-12T18:41:54.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out the easiest way for this to work.  She could essentially pedal with just a single leg if she had toe clips or clipless pedals. Google &quot;one legged cyclist&quot; and you'll see quite a few examples cyclists with only one leg who ride unmodified bikes. Steering might be a problem with only a single arm, but hopefully a prosthesis can help for that. The hard part would be building up enough strength in the one leg, but it can be done. Also, if you get a standard trike with a handle similar as on the bike you linked to, you could push her along a bit until she developed the necessary strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T18:41:54.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4933" CreationDate="2012-07-12T18:52:28.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quote from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/2783/1097&quot;&gt;this answer to the &quot;How much maintenance?&quot; question&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Those numbers are why people often end up with a dedicated commuter bike that costs a fortune up front. New Rohloff Oil every year at $20 compared to a new Shimano hub every three years at $800 makes the $2000 up front cost of a Rohloff seem cheap (a Rohloff will last 100,000 kilometres or more... no-one really knows because there aren't many hubs that have done that distance yet, Rohloff only started about 10 years ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T18:52:28.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10288" CreationDate="2012-07-12T19:16:38.317" Score="4" ViewCount="59786" Body="&lt;p&gt;When your derailleur hanger needs replacing, is there a good resource for matching frames to hangers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine was recently bent, so I had to dig through some websites and compare pictures of the hangers to my bent unit. Surely there's a better way. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T16:52:35.790" Title="Determining which derailleur hanger is compatible with a frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10283" CreationDate="2012-07-12T19:20:06.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;most mid level and up brakes / levers will offer 75% or better power from the hoods. Max brake power from the drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handle bar position is critical on long rides to offer 3 or so different hand positions. Start with the hoods level, to just above level and move around from there. I tend to micro adjust them as i get comfortable on a new bike. Seat height, frame size, stem length all play a factor in finding that sweat spot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T19:20:06.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10286" CreationDate="2012-07-12T20:03:07.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheels Manufacturing has a feature to search by brand for their hangers. Just one company of many that produces replacement hangers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelsmfg.com/products/derailleur-hangers.html&quot;&gt;http://wheelsmfg.com/products/derailleur-hangers.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T20:03:07.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10292" CreationDate="2012-07-12T22:28:15.120" Score="1" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought Avid CODE brakes. It comes with a rotor (200mm). I checked the website and manual and I can't find out if the rotor is stainless steel or the titanium version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information printed on the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;200mm HS1&#xA;BOLT TORQUE 55in-lbs 6.2N-m&#xA;A01 SEP 11&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T17:15:08.457" Title="Which rotor, Steel or Titanium comes with Avid CODE brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10281" CreationDate="2012-07-12T23:42:34.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the Strava website to find categorised segments. You'll have to register for an account and I'm not sure how &quot;official&quot; the categories are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Register or sign in Click on &quot;Explore&quot; menu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the region you're interested in using the search box. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The map will then show all segments registered in Strava.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a slider along the top that allows you to filter out various categories, so you can see just categorised climbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T23:42:34.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10289" CreationDate="2012-07-13T00:04:56.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a magnet sticks, it's steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T00:04:56.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10289" CreationDate="2012-07-13T00:27:01.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Archimedes figured this trick out a long time ago. Place it in a measuring cup submerged in water to determine it's volume. Convert the volume to cm^3. Then weigh it, and covert to grams.  Divide the weight by the volume to obtain the density. The density of steel is about 7.8 g/cm^3, while the density of titanium is about 4.5 g/cm^3.  You don't have to be that accurate since the density of the two materials is so different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, after doing a little bit of research, here is what I found.  On &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=67569&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; it lists the Titanium rotor, but when you read the description, it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Material: Alloy Rotor, Titanium Bolts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/f19/avid-hs1-titanium-rotors-248766/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forum post&lt;/a&gt; that says they are probably not titanium rotors, but steel rotors with titanium bolts, which seems to fit well (well enough anyway) with the description in the store link above.  Most likely what you have is a steel, or alloy (use the magnet test) rotor, with possibly titanium bolts. To test if the bolts are titanium, weight them in your hand against a steel bolt of similar size. The titanium bolt should be significantly lighter. Or you could use a magnet. But it's probably easier to just figure it out by feeling the weight then to go around searching for magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T00:37:45.367" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T00:37:45.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10281" CreationDate="2012-07-13T09:04:25.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a guardian article about the top 10 climbs in UK :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2012/jul/13/top-10-uk-cycle-climbs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2012/jul/13/top-10-uk-cycle-climbs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1067" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T09:04:25.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10295" CreationDate="2012-07-13T13:37:40.157" Score="22" ViewCount="9182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to purchase a bicycle in the very near future and have been shopping around at different bike shops to see what I like and what they offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My primary goal here is to commute to work.  It's a 6 mile / 9.5 km ride (each way).  It's all paved road, mostly bike lanes, for the duration of the trip.  And that's what I tell the sales people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twice now, I've been asked if I intended to use my bicycle for 'fitness'.  And when I say, 'Well, sure, maybe it'd be nice to do that too...' the salesman points me away from the bigger 'commuter' bicycles and towards the smaller road bicycles (one said a road 'cruiser' would be best, the other just suggested a 'road' bicycle).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't think anything of it until I was at home - but now it's bothering me.  How does having a lighter, more efficient bicycle, that promotes a more aerodynamic position ENCOURAGE fitness?  Isn't that the exact opposite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely for any given course/distance the cyclist with the heavier, less efficient, bicycle would be working &lt;em&gt;harder&lt;/em&gt;.  I'm not a cyclist, but I do know if you go to the gym and use a stationary bicycle the more resistance you have the harder the workout.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing?  Would you not get a much better workout on a heavy bike with an extra 70 pounds and sitting in an upright position....than on a top-of-the-line road bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it just a reason to get me into a higher price-range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3162" LastEditorUserId="3162" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T13:45:18.727" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T16:02:03.987" Title="Why Do I Need a Better/Lighter Road Bicycle to Train For 'Fitness'?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2012-07-13T14:14:41.393" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rob, you are correct that a heavier bike will give you a greater fitness benefit over the same distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real counter-point I have is that the most effective bikes for fitness are the ones that get ridden. So, if some reason a lighter bike would more fun or appealing to you (while still be a &quot;good enough&quot; commuter), than a lighter bike could be a better choice for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, extra weight is not noticed much for commuting, so I'd rather have the durability of CroMoly over aluminum or carbon, and the practical benefits of fenders, racks, lights and bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An anecdote: My wife rides a bike with electric assist. You might think electric assist would reduce the fitness benefit, but opposite is true for her. She takes more trips because she has electric assist (including carrying one or two children plus cargo), and thus ends up riding-- and pedaling-- more than if she had an unassisted bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some will suggest that you should get a lighter bike for &quot;social&quot; riding. That depends on who you ride with and what their fitness levels and interests are. I'm personally a stronger rider, and prefer to ride with my wife, parents and older friends, as well my children. For me, having a bike that's a bit heavier improves the social parity and helps to me ride naturally closer to the same speed with the people I prefer to ride with. If you want a hang with &quot;Group A&quot; club rides, lighter would be way the go instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever gets you out riding the most is best bike for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastEditorUserId="2001" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T14:46:59.947" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T14:46:59.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2012-07-13T14:21:36.257" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to use your bike primarily as a commuter, then I don't think it's neccesary to get a Road bike meant for fitness cycling or racing.  I'd recommend getting a bike that is going to a) meet your needs as a commuter and b) is built with quality components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are common needs or wants for a commuter?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounts for fenders - to keep you drier when it rains &#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounts for Racks - to hold panniers, to haul your stuff.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appropriate gearing for the terrain, cargo load, and ability&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clearance for the size of tire you want to run.  You can always run skinnier tires on a frame with more clearance, but you can't really squeeze fat tires on a standard road bike.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebars and shifters are comfortable for you - If you are not racing or riding with a cycling club doing long road rides, you may prefer flat bars for commuting with bar mount shifters as opposed to drop bars with integrated brake/shifter setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, steel cyclocross bikes and touring bikes with rack/fender mounts tend to be good versatile bikes that be used for recreation riding and commuting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T14:21:36.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2012-07-13T14:39:48.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good points in the other answers, the one bit that I would add is that if you do want it also for &quot;fitness&quot;, that somewhat implies that you will be doing some sort of group riding in the future. Here's where the lighter, sporty bikes come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While going 60 miles on a heavier bike will undoubtedly be more of a workout on a heavier bike, you aren't going to be able (unless your name is Aaron Scheidies) to hang with a bunch of guys and gals on &quot;road bikes&quot;. Riding with other people can be a lot of fun. It takes something that is fun exercise and catapults it into a social event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll second the cyclo-cross mention. These can be great all around bikes, throw some slicks (road tires) on them and they are a road bike with attitude. My current commuter is a 'cross bike and on the way home last night I joined into an impromptu 3 man pace line...we smoked through a good third of my commute...better than hanging out at the bar over a beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T14:39:48.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2012-07-13T14:43:41.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I agree with the existing answers there is something about a relaxed geometry heavy commuting bike that means it feels 'right' to pootle along on it daydreaming on the way to or from work. On the other hand a lightweight racer seems to want to go fast. I know this is entirely irrational but I like meandering through London on a Boris bike, but the sound that the high-pressure slick tires make on my racing bike (almost like a tuning fork) just begs to go faster. It also helps focus on the important stuff, the reason I am not faster on my racing bike is all down to my weight and my fitness, not the weight or quality of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3704" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T14:43:41.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-13T14:57:10.827" Score="2" ViewCount="2129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shinamo Tourney front derailleur that doesn't change well from gear 1 to gear 2 (I'm new to bicycles so I don't know standards, so I think I should specify that gear #1 is the smallest).&#xA;In fact, it does sometimes change, but only after a few minutes of pedaling, and it keeps making a rattling sound as it's still on gear #1, but the &quot;command&quot; is to get to gear #2.&#xA;The problem only holds when I change from 1 to 2, never viceversa. I think, but I am not 100% sure that the problem might be correlated with my chain falling off a while back (I don't remember the details, as in which gear I was and all that, sorry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I got to detail the problem as I should be, just because I'm new to this, but if you are willing to help and feel that I missed some information, please let me know and I will give you the information you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4527" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T02:12:46.117" Title="Front derailleur doesn't change from grear 1 to gear 2" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2012-07-13T15:11:02.763" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because fast is fun, and exercising for fitness is often not fun.  Faster is funner.  :-)&#xA;Or in more 'justifiable' form:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making your fitness activities fun makes it more likely that you'll continue doing them, and gain the fitness you want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lighter and more responsive bike is definitely more fun, therefore if you're serious about fitness, you may want a serious road bike. (Which doesn't have to be excessively expensive.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1674" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T15:11:02.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10283" CreationDate="2012-07-13T15:15:58.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was getting disatisfied with the brakes on my drops and found that I wasn't able to use the brakes effectively from the hoods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a few sites that suggested a good base line including &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sutherlandsbicycle.com/Chapter11.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sutherlandsbicycle.com/Chapter11.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I put a straight edge along the bottom of the drop extending forward and lined up the tip of the brake lever with this. I also use the straight edge across the outside of the bars to line the levers up fore and aft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This provides a good base line to make adjustments from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few days riding I decided that I actually wanted to be about 6mm below the straight edge and pointing about 5 degrees in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I left the tape off while I was experimenting. Remember to keep the end plugs in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that my original set-up was about 30mm below the line and meant that my hands were turned down too much to comfortably use the levers from above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T15:15:58.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-13T15:42:12.950" Score="2" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2623/what-is-the-deal-with-oval-chainrings&quot;&gt;What is the deal with oval chainrings?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that eliptical chainrings have been around for a long time and their use seems to have peaked back in the 70's &amp;amp; 80's.  I recently saw a professional rider using them in the TDF and I started thinking...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any empirical data that supports or refutes the claim that eliptical chainrings provide more power output with less muscle fatigue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2027" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T19:43:33.100" Title="Are eliptical chainrings effective?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-07-13T19:50:28.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2012-07-13T17:45:37.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately you want a bike that &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; will enjoy riding.  An over-heavy bike is clumsy to ride, and a super-racer bike is uncomfortable for most people, so somewhere in-between is usually the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd actually encourage starting with a relatively inexpensive (perhaps used or maybe borrowed) bike, until you get a &quot;feel&quot; for riding and decide if you're a &quot;racer&quot; or a &quot;loafer&quot;, and decide if your body is more comfortable upright or in a racing crouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T17:45:37.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4933" CreationDate="2012-07-13T18:40:24.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regularly ride a 1971 Raleigh Twenty with a Sturmey Archer 3-speed hub. I do not maintenance the hub, and it continues to work fine, 40 years later. (Although I presume there were some years before I bought it a few years ago in which it wasn't ridden). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also regularly ridden a Shimano Nexus 8 hub for the past 4 years, year-round in snow and rain in Indiana. I don't recall doing any maintenance on it yet, either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;UPDATE&lt;/em&gt;: After about 5 years of regular use without maintenance the Shimano Nexus 8 hub eventually failed. Had I oiled and maintenanced it a bit, I presume it would have lasted longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastEditorUserId="2001" LastEditDate="2017-08-01T16:55:53.423" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T16:55:53.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10302" CreationDate="2012-07-13T19:43:33.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon brown offers a full breakdown of the biopace rings &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/biopace.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2623/what-is-the-deal-with-oval-chainrings&quot;&gt;This answer here&lt;/a&gt; may be what you need&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T19:43:33.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2012-07-13T21:36:47.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot trot out the studies from memory now, so take my answer with a big grain of salt. Or as an invitation to do more in-depth research. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was actually researching these things several years ago, my conclusions were than the classic oval chainrings were ineffectual in whatever goal they were attempting to reach, while the newer Rotor system actually provided some small benefit on the order of 1-2% better average power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that right thing to strive for is minimizing the maximal force exerted by the muscles, because the maximal force is correlated with utilization of glycogen (the bigger the force exerted, the greater the proportion of glycogen burned via the inefficient anaerobic pathway). Rotor succeeds in this by flattening the power delivery curve, while the immovable ovals just phase-shift the curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T21:36:47.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10299" CreationDate="2012-07-13T22:05:09.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't find the &quot;barrel adjuster&quot;, what you could do is pull the cable a little bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find the bolt on the derailleur that holds the cable.&#xA;Just in case, check that if you pull the cable by hand the derailleur cage moves outwards. If so, set the derailleur to the lowest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold the cable with pliers, and with a hex key release the bolt slightly, then pull the cable to make sure it's very tense. (It won't go too far, just a little.) Tighten the bolt again as you still hold the cable with the pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4526" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2012-07-14T02:12:46.117" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T02:12:46.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2012-07-14T03:10:09.960" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing not mentioned is that lighter bikes are more expensive, and have higher margins than cheaper bikes. Also the higher priced, bikes tend to have higher margins, why sell you a $200 bike and make $10 profit when he can sell you a $500 bike and make 50, or $2000 and make $1000 profit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lighter bikes also last a shorter time - getting back to the shop so they get more $$$$, they also tend to need more maintaince - back to the shop, more $$$$$ -  that performance does not come cheap. Also remember that cycling is the new golf - as such, people often want to be seen to have a better (or at least as good) bike than his riding partner. It's nothing more than personal choice if you want to play that game, but the sales guy (If he's any good) will make you feel you have to play it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a price point where you get a happy medium for you. For me, it's a steel frame hardtail MTB at $900- For others, it's a $200 Walmart special and others a $5000 carbon dream machine.  Only thing is, don't let the shop guy convince you need to spend more than you are prepered to, especially if his only reason is &quot;You go faster&quot;. Spend money where it counts - for a commuter, reliabilty and comfort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cheap and things are not only heavy , but not well built and unreliable. A bit more will get you heavy and reliable, soon you are spending money to save weight, and trading reliability and length of life to get it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I feel that for a commuter, steel frame  and mid - high end components is better than carbon with low-mid components.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T03:10:09.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10286" CreationDate="2012-07-14T05:08:15.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://derailleurhanger.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://derailleurhanger.com/&lt;/a&gt; allows you to search by brand or design (number of holes). It being a distributor of Wheels Mfg parts, the prices may be slightly lower than purchasing from Wheels Mfg directly, especially for single-digit quantities. The search function does require JavaScript to be enabled, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4232" LastEditorUserId="4232" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T08:36:28.527" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T08:36:28.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-14T13:46:53.760" Score="-5" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;Who does not like doing tricks on their bikes? Every cyclist at some point in the cycling journey thinks about learning tricks they can perform on their bikes. Some of riders it might be fun, for others for serious and technical riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, although most of these start as fun, it ends up being very profitable in the rides I go on. &#xA;These rides being commuting, where free hands, trackstands, bunny hops prove to be real handy, or in trails where bunny hops, drifting, stoppie can be life savings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, honestly I don't believe that learning tricks is a &lt;em&gt;unavoidable part&lt;/em&gt; of being a cyclist. I have seen cyclists capable of pumping non-stop uphill for hours. They barely use any tricks and go beyond core cycling with sprints, body positions and pedalling techniques. For a hobby cyclist like me, knowing some tricks is not even comparable to their skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I practice a lot, I commute, I go on endurance drills and all of these rides will pay off eventually. But I am wondering if I should spend time learning and practising tricks as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the question is &lt;strong&gt;How important is it to learn tricks to be a good rider?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T02:17:37.320" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T13:55:06.410" Title="How important is it for a cyclist to be able to perform tricks?" Tags="&lt;skills&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2012-07-22T20:11:35.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10310" CreationDate="2012-07-14T14:17:20.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, what defines a master is how much he dominates his craft. If we consider riding bike as a craft or tool. A true master is one who, at any level of skill, is always below his limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as an example, let's consider a professor, a math professor. If he only knows what he teaches his students, and cannot go off the beaten path, he's everyday working at the limit, and has not any &quot;reserve&quot; in case a student appears with an atypical question or problem. In the other hand, a professor who has a deep, philosophical knowledge of math, and knows the why's and how's of it, he's always working in his &quot;comfort zone&quot;, and no student would catch him by surprise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A musician who studied all his scales up and down, thousands of times throughout his life, can perform solos at lightning speed, and even if he gets nervous or makes a mistake, he can gracefully recover and the audience will barely notice. Now a novice, if he gets lost during an intricate musical part, will not know what to do and fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now riding bikes requires physical knowledge more than theoretical one, and these can only be learned by continuous, repetitive, deliberate practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one rides in traffic, or down a trail, and is too close to his limit, anything unexpected can be too much. He's always one step from being caught by surprise. But if he has a broad repertoire of &quot;movements&quot; he can apply on the bike, a wide &quot;menu&quot; of courses of action is always ready to be put in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spent my youth doing XC mountain biking, and now I'm mostly a commuter, night-rider, and take some roads during weekends. I cannot count the times when the former XC skills helped me avoid cars and motorcycles, jumping over potholes, even going UP some short stairs, and properly reducing speed before hitting something accidentally (sometimes a fellow rider). And, although my riding style cannot be described as &quot;subtle&quot;, have not had any serious fall in years (although they were relatively common in trails, years ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly: Learning to dominate a bicycle is as important as you feel it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T13:55:06.410" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T13:55:06.410" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9313" CreationDate="2012-07-14T14:53:19.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the answers provide very good points. But few things, I would to tell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Analysis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before trying to improve anything, First find out what you are capable of. Find out your strength, your weaknesses. For example: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can ride 5 miles with ease, at 10 mins? Great, this is your capability. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cannot maintain a steady cadence in uphill, this is your weakness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To Improve you needed to know yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Planning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next important topic is planning. You need to find out what you need to do? How do you want to improve? Do you want to increase your timing? your speed? your stamina? your endurance? What is it that you want to improve and on what order, make a schedule best fit for you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Target:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have a plan and you know your target, start working on it. Create drills, make workout sets on how you want to perform. For example: &quot;Speed&quot;, lets say you want to improve speed. Then create a check point, set the count down timer for 5 minutes, then start cycling. After you hit 5 minutes.. stop mark the spot, go back again. And do it again from the same checkpoint and keep on doing until you go further than the last point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will eventually build up all the power and necessities of a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T14:53:19.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-14T15:23:09.833" Score="1" ViewCount="12593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike with look style pedals, and I am looking for an attachment I can clip-in to the pedals (where my cleats clip in) to provide a platform so that I can temporarily use ordinary shoes to pedal.  I find this convenient if I have to lock up/walk somewhere after so I can wear whatever walking shoes I want (I can't walk in my look cleats and don't want to convert to SPD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4532" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T16:29:18.283" Title="Clip-on to temporarily convert Look pedal to stand-on style?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2012-07-14T15:57:55.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclelicio.us/2012/diy-flat-pedal-adapters/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclelicio.us/2012/diy-flat-pedal-adapters/&lt;/a&gt; If you have looked everywhere and cannot find anything this might work for you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T15:57:55.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10310" CreationDate="2012-07-14T16:05:07.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regard it as a safety aspect. Simple things like riding without hands on the handlebars, jumping small objects, track-stands all help with balance and help you avoid problems in tight spaces amongst traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1020" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T16:05:07.953" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9313" CreationDate="2012-07-14T17:31:58.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 53 years old, 6'2&quot; and about 220lbs. What has really helped me become a better rider is riding with a local group. A group will typically push you harder than you will push yourself. I ride with a group three days per week. Our Monday and Thursday night rides are 25 miles and typically average 18+ mph. Saturday rides are longer (40-60 miles) and a tad slower. Not only has riding with a group made me more fit, it's improved my bike handling skills. Granted, you can't just go from 2 miles to 25 or more, but you can work up to it. And, many local cycling groups have &quot;starter&quot; rides to build up your miles and confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eating is also critical. If you're serious about getting fit, you must give up a normal junk food diet. Especially junk food / empty calories at night. I try not to have any carbs after 7pm. I try to focus on protein only (I've just started doing this). It makes a big difference (at least for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, others have said it, and it's true. Ride as much as you can, and rest often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T17:31:58.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10156" CreationDate="2012-07-14T17:38:17.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about this today. I have a similar KMC chain and own the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/master-link-pliers-mlp-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool Master Link pliers&lt;/a&gt;. Following chain removal for maintenance, the KMC master link began to cause an audible click every time it engaged the cassette. The noise grew over the course of several weeks. I'd just as well go without the link from now on. I think the utility of a master link has diminished over time as tolerances grew tighter and cassettes narrower... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T17:38:17.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2012-07-14T22:01:19.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;People definitely noticed when I'd pass them on climbs I could muscle over, but longer, drawn-out climbs demonstrated that high cadence (80+) is a better approach for the workout.  The higher cadence increases the likelihood of hitting the point where you are burning fat.  At which point, you don't have to ride hard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any bike will allow you to reach that point.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But the weight is a factor for the speed you can reach, and sustain.  Which only matters when riding with groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no frame that's perfect for everything, but cyclocross covers most of the bases enough.  They generally support fenders &amp;amp; racks, and disc brakes are becoming very common (even on high end frames).  With a triple ring crank, you've got a great touring bike.  A compact crank is fine for most commuting, and a standard 53/39 will put you on par with most road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T22:01:19.927" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2012-07-15T00:49:16.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any commercial attachment, but there are at least two other ways you can solve the problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mikes linked to a DIY solution for eggbeaters.  You could easily do the same with Look-style clipless pedals.  Just buy a spare pair of cleats for and bolt them to a piece of wood or plastic.  You'd need to drill three holes in the flat support piece, but you can probably buy all the hardware (including cleats) for under $30.  The disadvantage of this method is that it would be difficult to properly weight the clip-ons so that they rest in a convenient orientation when you foot is off the pedal.  You may have noticed that Look pedals always sit with the front pointed upward.  This done intentionally so that you can simply slide your shoe and cleat forward into the pedal to clip in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I know that the question asks for something to clip on to the pedal, but it seems like the real problem you're trying to solve is &quot;How can I walk around in the same shoes I ride in?&quot;  For that, I would propose an alternate solution: cleat covers!  These are rubber covers which fit over the cleat, available at just about any bike shop in a variety of generics and brand names.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can, of course, also use the pedals as-is with your street shoes.  For &quot;short&quot; distances (every rider is going to disagree on what short means in this context) I find this works acceptably well.  I place my feet on the pedals the same as if I were wearing cycling shoes with cleats. In other words, I use the top of the pedal and place the ball of my foot over the axle. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walking around in cycling shoes with cleat covers can be a little awkward at first because your toes are pointed slightly upward (the covers have to go over the cleat, obviously, so that adds even more thickness to the front of the shoe).  Most people get used to them pretty quickly, though, and it's really not a big deal.  One thing you can try is walking on the balls of your feet.  Normally that wouldn't work in cycling shoes because the cleat is smooth and slippery, but with cleat covers you get just as much traction as you would in regular shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastEditorUserId="2449" LastEditDate="2012-07-15T00:59:35.560" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T00:59:35.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9745" CreationDate="2012-07-15T01:18:59.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chainrings you want to use are only 7% to 10% bigger [1] than the ones you currently have.  You may be able to simply swap your current chainrings with the ones you want, leaving everything else the same [2].  You would need to raise the front derailler clamp (the part which holds the front derailler to the seat tube) by about 2 cm [3].  You would also need to readjust the front derailler cable after you raise the derailler, since it would be 2 cm closer to or farther from the shifter depending on whether you currently have bottom or top pull.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] 30/28 ~= 1.07 and 53/48 ~= 1.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] This assumes that the old and new rings both use the same bolt-circle diameter, sometimes abbreviated BCD.  If they don't, you'd need new cranks as well, and possibly a new bottom bracket if you can't find similar cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[3] Bicycle chains use a 1 inch pitch (distance between the centers of two adjacent link pins), so a chainring with x teeth is x inches in diameter.  (53 inches / (2pi) - 48 inches / (2pi)) = 2cm, so the new ring will have a radius 2 cm greater than the old one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T01:18:59.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2012-07-15T01:22:15.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I wouldn't do it.  For the platform to be of any benefit it will have to have grip of some sort.  The resulting grip combined with the torque from your foot twisting naturally can cause the platform to un-clip accidentally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend just buying a cheap pair of platform pedals and swap as required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4493" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T01:22:15.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10262" CreationDate="2012-07-15T04:29:01.917" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have personally ridden and raced on many sandy courses and trails (e.g. Moab) and the best advice is to shift your weight back, &lt;em&gt;relax&lt;/em&gt; and think about guiding rather than steering the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will never be able to ride in a perfectly straight line, so get over it or avoid sand.  Rather you need to let the bike move and shift around under you. You will need to stay loose and relaxed while making sure to have a firm grip. You can't force the bike or it will skid out. Rather your job is to look ahead and guide the bike in the general direction you want to go. You also need to avoid sudden jarring movements. If you have ridden in dry snow, the feeling is quite similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some answers said avoid excessive speed (which is good advice for riders new to sand) but I will say it is also possible to scream along on sand.  I have hit deep and long sandy sections at full speed before (e.g. 50km/hr) and been fine.  Sure the bike moved around a bit, but as long as I don't panic (and tighten up), kept my weight back and guided the bike I was fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding uphill or on the flats try to keep steady power on the pedals as you have less traction to work with. Some find a faster or slower pedal cadence easier - try both and take your pick. Also make sure to conserve momentum, if you slow down to much you won't be going anywhere. Finally, don't get discouraged, riding on sand is a learned skill and always work to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, there are also technical aspects (e.g. tire pressure) that have already been covered  (heltonbiker)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2012-07-15T06:32:14.417" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T06:32:14.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9730" CreationDate="2012-07-15T06:28:24.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not have opened up (manually reset) the brake pistons sufficiently.  Typically, I remove the brake pads and use a plastic tire lever to push pistons back as far as possible. If do not push hard enough you will not fully reset the pistons and the pads will still rub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aside&lt;/strong&gt; - for those new to hydraulic brakes, most systems automatically set the pad rotor distance to accommodate for wear whenever you activate the brakes.  If remove your wheel and squeeze your brake lever, the pistons reset for a closer distance because the rotor is no longer there to stop the pads.  As a result, you cannot get your wheel and rotor back in.  You fix this by resetting the pistons as described above. Also if you change your brake pads you will also need manually reset the pistons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also find this &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com.sg/publish/content/global_cycle/en/sg/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0005-downloadFile.html/Resetting%20Disc%20Brake%20Pistons.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano tech document&lt;/a&gt; on resetting Shimano hydraulic brakes useful.  Most other hydraulics will operate in a similar manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com.sg/publish/content/global_cycle/en/sg/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0005-downloadFile.html/Resetting%20Disc%20Brake%20Pistons.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com.sg/publish/content/global_cycle/en/sg/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0005-downloadFile.html/Resetting%20Disc%20Brake%20Pistons.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T21:30:51.433" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T21:30:51.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10338" CreationDate="2012-07-15T08:18:45.873" Score="8" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Sturmey Archer 3-speed hub on an ex-single speed. I got a flat on my way to work and couldn't ride any more. So I jumped on the train and took it to the bike shop near work (the shop who fitted the hub was too far from my work) to get them to fit a new tyre and tube. They've generally seemed pretty knowledgeable and competent when I've used them in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I picked it up, they'd removed the changing cable and shaft (sorry, I don't know what this is called) that triggers the gear change from the hub and when I pointed it out they didn't even think that was a problem. So I assume they aren't exactly familiar with Sturmey Archer hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately when they re-fitted the axle nuts they cross threaded it. So the nut was completely stripped and now I can't properly thread a new nut onto the axle, as the thread on the axle is also damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought is to take it back and get them to fix it. But if the fix necessitates a new axle, I don't trust them to do the work. So I guess I should ask them to pay for me to return the hub to the shop I bought it from so they can repair it, but I doubt they'll agree to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a reasonable expectation? How should I proceed from here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-20T21:16:59.600" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T21:16:59.600" Title="What do I do when I don't trust my LBS to repair a problem they caused?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;lbs&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10339" CreationDate="2012-07-15T15:04:30.767" Score="44" ViewCount="11323" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watching the Tour de France on TV I notice that the riders like to ride close behind other riders when going up a steep hill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that rider can benefit from a slipstream on the flat section, but on a climb the speed is so slow, the slipstream has minimal effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When climbing, the TV commentators make a big deal of the importance of riders 'getting on to the wheel' of the riders ahead as if it will be much easier if the rider could attach himself to the group ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the benefit of being attached to a group when climbing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4537" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T16:46:31.307" Title="Why is it easier to follow a cyclist up-hill" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10326" CreationDate="2012-07-15T16:35:53.917" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked around a bit for empirical data on this, but can't find much. My &lt;em&gt;opinion&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;guesses&lt;/em&gt; on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is any headwind, like in normal drafting, the front rider takes the brunt of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The psychological &quot;I'm still in the pack&quot; effect. I can push myself to stay with a pack's pace, but once I drop behind it, it's much harder to keep going at the same pace and the gap quickly widens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Following the leader takes less mental power. Mental energy is very significant if often overlooked. Imagine being tired and having to drive home on a mix of winding roads, lots of turns, and some rural highways. It's much easier if you following someone going to the same place then if you have to make all the decisions. Likewise going up a hard grueling hill. You can just follow the line of the leader.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T16:35:53.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10326" CreationDate="2012-07-15T17:20:24.017" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The physics of the answer are actually pretty well known, and it doesn't require any psychological explanation (there are psychological reasons but the physical reasons suffice; the psychological reasons are in addition). Update: a relevant research finding &lt;a href=&quot;https://journals.humankinetics.com/doi/abs/10.1123/ijspp.2017-0878&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right that the speeds are slower while climbing so the absolute benefit of drafting is less. However, gaps are always a problem whether climbing, on the flat, or descending and &lt;em&gt;as long as you are riding in the atmosphere and not in a vacuum&lt;/em&gt; there is some benefit to drafting. When climbing (as opposed to riding on the flat or descending) small differences in power make a consequential difference in speed. That's because the power needed to overcome aerodynamic drag varies approximately with the cube of speed while the power needed to overcome gravity drag varies only with the speed itself. That means, ceteris paribus, on a steep hill a 5% difference in power means almost a 5% difference in speed while on the flat a 5% difference in power only means ~1.7% difference in speed. So, although the aerodynamic benefit of drafting on a hill is small, it's the only game in town. That is why a team leader will follow a domestique even if the leader is more powerful -- not because leaders are attempting to attack their own domestiques, or because domestiques necessarily ride more steadily than the leader but because the domestique offers some (small) advantage to the leader. How much advantage? At the speeds you see in the WorldTour even up steep climbs, a pro rider can still receive a &quot;savings&quot; in power of between 5 to 10 watts by following someone else (either his own domestique or a rider from another team). This may not sound like much but if you are right on the cusp, it can be the difference between hanging on and getting dropped -- and, as the answer above shows, getting dropped can have disastrous consequences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To a lesser extent, but by the same physics, a strong tailwind can shatter the peloton in the same way that a steep hill can, while a strong headwind tends to keep the peloton compact. You probably understand that when there is a strong headwind, drafting becomes more beneficial. Effectively, a headwind penalizes the rider in front a lot and therefore benefits the riders behind a lot. The opposite is also true: when there is a tailwind, the benefit of drafting decreases so small differences in power between riders become more apparent. The tailwind makes everyone go faster, but it exacerbates power differences between riders, so strong smart riders will never attack in a headwind but will attack on a hill since that's where their advantage is greatest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, the combination of a tailwind and hill can be deadly for team time trials. For example, in the 2005 Tour de France, the stage 4 team time trial between Tours and Blois in the Loire Valley took place on a day with a strong tailwind on a course that would normally be considered relatively flat. Speeds were high because of the tailwind but at a slight hill about two-thirds of the way along the course riders were getting popped off. The tactics of team time trials demand that the best teams moderate their effort on hills or with tailwinds in order to prevent losing too many of their riders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crosswinds can also shatter the peloton because they can reduce the drafter's benefit relative to those in front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T16:46:31.307" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T16:46:31.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-15T18:10:04.757" Score="4" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that it’s important to regularly test one’s brakes, by grabbing the lever and squeezing it hard, perhaps all the way down to the bars. The theory is that if they’re going to fail, it’s far better that they do so on the workstand than during a panic stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: does this testing itself cause wear or damage? And if so, how can I mitigate or compensate for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To clarify:&lt;/strong&gt; This test is designed to see if anything is broken, not tightened sufficiently, etc., rather than “do the brakes stop the bike”. For example, this weekend I discovered that the cable had worn down over a corner [aside: I have an appointment to re-route the cable] by breaking it during this test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastEditorUserId="4175" LastEditDate="2012-07-15T20:47:05.233" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T03:44:07.463" Title="Can I damage my brakes by testing them vigorously?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-15T18:12:53.440" Score="4" ViewCount="1365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve discovered in my parts box some rim brake pads that have been there for several years. Aside from age, they are in fine shape (some are new). Can I put these on my bike, or is there hidden damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, how long do stored rim brake pads remain safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T16:58:46.680" Title="How long do brake pads last in storage?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10331" CreationDate="2012-07-15T18:33:52.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have already bought some pads that the LBS had for more than 4 years, and they work perfectly. I think the specific compounds from which brake pads (and tires, most probably) is not prone to self-degeneration if stored in a &quot;normal&quot; environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the suggestion would be to take a ride and check if the pads brake well. If so, use normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T18:33:52.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10330" CreationDate="2012-07-15T18:37:23.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the principle that the brakes are designed to brake, and that &quot;braking&quot; means locking the wheel with a rider on the bike, I think that is the proper way to test the brakes: on a safe place, get the bike to a not-too-high speed and grab the brakes fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should do no harm PROVIDED the brakes are setup properly. For example, I had a bent bolt in a dual-caliper road brake (the bolt that attaches the brake to the fork) because there was a small play - the screw and nuts were not properly tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T18:37:23.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10310" CreationDate="2012-07-15T18:39:19.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion this thread is a lot of elitist carp.  There are plenty of perfectly competent bike commuters and tourists, eg, who can't do a track stand or a bunny hop, and many road bikes do not have the steering geometry for &quot;no hands&quot; riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's nice if you can do all this stuff, but to imply that a cyclist is incompetent (and should by implication stay off the road) if they can't is pompous and arrogant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T18:39:19.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10330" CreationDate="2012-07-15T19:59:24.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, if you can squeeze it &lt;em&gt;all the way down to the bars&lt;/em&gt;, your brakes are probably not set up correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When braking, there is a point where squeezing too hard will not get you any benefit, and will only destabilize you instead. So, it's important to test the brakes while moving (slowly, e.g. 3 km/h, to be safe). And so, as you discover the point where there is no point in squeezing harder, your testing will not put too much wear on the brakes (that is, no more than regular use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, testing the rear brake will probably involve locking your rear wheel while moving, and that will wear the tire alittle. I guess this is more significant than the wear you cause to your brakes (cables, pads, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T19:59:24.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10356" CreationDate="2012-07-15T21:39:00.237" Score="4" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;My touring bike needs new brake pads, and I'm about to do the swap. I've done it before, and plan to consult the usual YouTube videos to refresh myself in the procedure. (Brakes are something where one doesn't want to mess around.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Touring bikes have special concerns when it comes to brakes. In particular, they're carrying a lot of weight and need to be able to stop in all conditions. But it seems that my brakes on this bike are always too tight or too loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one properly adjust the brakes on a touring bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The bike in question is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/816068/novara-randonee-bike-2012&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Novara Randonee&lt;/a&gt; with cantilever brakes. I'll be putting on two sets of Kool-stop dual compound brake pads. However, answers that apply to touring bikes in general would probably be more useful for all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T00:06:59.423" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T00:06:59.423" Title="How to properly adjust rim brakes for a touring bike?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10326" CreationDate="2012-07-15T21:39:13.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my limited experience it's not really about slipstreaming, it's about the physical distance between riders. As heltonbiker suggested above, on a hill the leading ridser is &lt;em&gt;above&lt;/em&gt; the rest as well as ahead, and that extra height gives them an advantage if they attack. And getting past them means not just the usual power to speed up, power to break the wind, plus manoeuvring to keep the overtaken rider off their tail. As well, they have to climb the hill. But if the lead rider attacks, they get the advantage that every metre they are ahead is also a fraction of a metre above the chasing riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the psychology of it, where on a hill everyone expects riders to be working hard, attacking steep sections and occasionally getting off the saddle to put power in. So it's harder to see the break coming, you can't just go &quot;sudden increase in power, they're making a break&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Math break... I'm curious about the power involved. I know that for the speed records at Battle Mountain riders are getting as much power from the slope as from their legs, so I wonder how the hills on the tour compare. Assume 10m/s ground speed (36km/hr) on a 1 in 5 slope, which means 2m/s upward velocity. For a 100kg combination (heavy, but plausible) that's 200W going into the climb, of the 300-400W that the lead rider would normally put out. So on the steepest part of the climb half the riders power is going into the hill rather than into the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T21:39:13.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10325" CreationDate="2012-07-15T23:04:23.260" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing always is to take it back to that LBS and talk to the manager or owner. At the very least that way you know that they know you're unhappy. Probably they will offer to fix the problem for you (or get one of their mechanics to do it). From working in a bike shop we always took those return/re-repair jobs quite seriously, because one angry ex-customer will tell 100 people but a happy customer might tell 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting them to pay a competitor to fix your bike is harder, especially if you want to take it there yourself and get reimbursed. Generally they will get a better price than you will just because they're another bike shop, so it's better for them to send the job through. Which they will do if they can't do the work themselves. Small shops often do this with stuff like suspension rebuilds that require specialised tools and knowledge. But for a simple wheel install? Unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit)But now that it's an axle replacement you might have more luck. This is likely to be tricky anyway, since axles for some older SA hubs aren't made any more (AFAIK), so it might come down to who actually has the part. Your best bet might be to find a shop that does deal with older hubs and get a quote from them. Tell them you're going g back to the first shop, so they don't write &quot;replace type 253a axle in SA 3xHD hub&quot; on the quote (because that would let any monkey buy one on eBay). That way you're just doing work you'd have to do anyway, and you might get the actual repair done free. At the very least you have some idea of how hard it's going to be to do the work and what it will cost, for when you're negotiating with original shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question for the shop is whether you be significantly less annoyed if they do this than if they just offer to fix it themselves, and how will that story play out to people you tell it to? Unless you lie you're going to be telling potential customers &quot;they screwed up, and when I took it back they offered to fix it but I wanted to have them pay another shop to fix it and they wouldn't do that&quot;. Not something that would put me off using that shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3582" LastEditorUserId="3582" LastEditDate="2012-07-15T23:22:15.263" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T23:22:15.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10326" CreationDate="2012-07-16T03:11:56.813" Score="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have raced Cat 1/2 for a number of years (elite road cycling) and I can unequivocally say the many here have no clue what they are talking about.  On a climb &quot;getting on the wheel&quot; is &lt;em&gt;rarely&lt;/em&gt; about slipstreaming (unless there is a severe headwind), instead its about   positioning, pacing and psychology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Position and Pacing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rides who attack or lead out the climb are strong and will likely be climbing near their aerobic threshold.  If you don't get on immediately, a gap will form.  If you want to catch up (close the gap) you will have to work &lt;strong&gt;hard&lt;/strong&gt; likely putting in an anaerobic effort.  This is not good as it will reduce your capacity to respond to future attacks (you only want to go anaerobic or near anaerobic when you absolutely have to). Then best analogy is you are like book of matches, you get so many strikes so use them wisely.  If you immediate latch onto the wheel it is your best shot at keeping your pace aerobic, therefore conserving a match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, lets suppose you say &quot;%^#* it I'll let a gap form.&quot;  You continue climbing eventually matching the pace so that the gap doesn't get too big.  When you reach the top, you will have put in virtually the same effort, but they will have started on the downhill  before you reach the top.  The gap will now get even wider and all of a sudden you are screwed. You are at speed and now you have an even bigger gap to close plus you now have the added disadvantage that slipstreaming has suddenly become important again. Facing this you have two real choices, cross your fingers and hope the peloton slows (which it may - the peloton is a fickle beast), OR bust your ass and close that damn gap.  The rub is if you do close the gap you put in twice the effort you would have if you had simply got on the damn wheel when the climbing started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road racing is like chess.  You need to plan at least five moves ahead, but unlike chess there are virtually no restriction to the type of moves you can make and there are 150 simultaneous players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Psychology&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some here seem to believe there is no psychology involved with getting on someone's wheels on a climb.  WRONG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone is climbing hard (at a pace you find hard to match) the best thing you can do is sit on their wheel as close as possible (we are talking 2 inches gap).  You just stare at that frackin' wheel and you DO NOT let that gap widen.  You tell yourself that you don't care how much it hurts, you will not let the gap widen.  You then keep repeating this to yourself and before you know it the climb is over.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all seriousness, when you are right on your aerobic threshold you have to nail pacing.  Riding really close lets you judge when you are slacking off.  It is much easier to work to pick up an inch or two that you lost when your concentration waned, than it is to be farther away from the rider and realize he/she has put 5-10 feet on you.  When everyone is at a similar fitness level you need to fight for every bloody inch you can get. Focusing on something like the wheel in front helps you not focus on the pain you are currently enduring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aside&lt;/strong&gt; - road racing questions are fun, someone should ask about fun strategies such as guttering the peloton or rolling attacks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T22:58:52.480" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T22:58:52.480" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10330" CreationDate="2012-07-16T03:44:07.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have noted, your brakes probably aren't set up correctly if you can squeeze the lever so far that it touches the bar while the bike is stationary. That said, squeezing the brake levers while the bike is on a stand won't cause any more wear than normal braking would [1].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to determine how hard to squeeze the brakes while on the stand, a good test is this: ride at a moderate speed in a safe environment and then try to rapidly stop.  Your brake levers should not touch the bars, and (obviously) nothing should break loose.  A properly adjusted rear brake should be able to skid the rear wheel (but it is considered poor braking technique to skid the rear wheel).  A properly adjusted front brake should should be able to lift the rear wheel off the ground (you don't want to &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; lift it, so use care).  Try to get a feel for how much pressure you apply to the levers when you practice a panic stop and then apply a little more when the bike is on a stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that it is unsafe to suddenly fully-apply the brakes (suddenly squeeze both levers as hard as you can) while traveling at speed.  If your brakes are properly adjusted, you should be able to easily lock either wheel by pulling hard on the brake lever.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rear wheel this is less of a problem: You will simply skid the wheel, wearing down the tire.  If you do this enough, or at a high enough speed or with a thin road tire, you risk wearing down the rubber to the innertube.  If that happens, the tire will rapidly deflate and you will be riding on the rim (this is bad).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locking the front wheel is a bigger problem: the front wheel &lt;em&gt;will NOT&lt;/em&gt; skid. If you lock the front wheel, you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; go over the bars and hurt yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] Within reason, of course.  If you're some sort of Olympic weightlifter, it's possible that you might squeeze hard enough to damage something.  Also, if the brakes are &quot;looser&quot; after you squeeze really hard (ie, if you have to pull the lever farther, not harder, to make the brake pads touch the rim) then you are either squeezing too hard, or you need to readjust the cable and tighten the cable clamp on the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T03:44:07.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-16T04:36:20.890" Score="1" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace the suspension fork on my MTB (which has blown a seal) with a rigid fork now that I'm exclusively commuting in the city. During my research I came across the&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MOSSO-26-MTB-Carbon-Aluminium-Rigid-Straight-Fork-Disc-Brake-Only-/140730934929?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;hash=item20c437a691#ht_3295wt_1163&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MOSSO 26&quot; MTB Carbon &amp;amp; Aluminium Rigid Straight Fork&lt;/a&gt; on eBay, one of the cheapest &quot;carbon&quot; forks in this category at only 80 bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the catch? Which parts are are aluminium vs carbon? How do they compare with pure carbon or pure aluminium? Is this just a gimmick to make aluminium forks look cool by coating them in purely cosmetic textured plastic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="341" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T10:53:11.420" Title="Does &quot;Carbon &amp; Aluminium&quot; really mean cheap plastic coated aluminium?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2012-07-16T05:18:01.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Dawn diswasher liquid for cleaning oil and grease off of many things, including my bike's gears. Just remember to use a good clean lube when it's all dry. I use a small bottle brush to get between the gears in the cassette. Most auto parts stores carry small brushes or the grocery store for cleaning baby bottles. After all dont we all 'baby' our bikes???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4535" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T05:18:01.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9159" CreationDate="2012-07-16T07:51:07.853" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as my knowledge stretches,  the shifters control how far the derailleur moves with each shift so as long as the number of speeds on the cassette = the number of speeds on your shifters you will be fine. But be careful when selecting cassettes as you need a 10 speed wheel to run a ten speed cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO BASICALLY THAT IS A YES BUT YOU MAY NEED A NEW WHEEL OR HUB!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4543" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T07:51:07.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-16T08:58:33.773" Score="2" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hoping you guys could help me. I recently bought SPD cleats and as mentioned in this forum I've been using spinning bikes to practice unclipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that my right shoe is getting damaged with the cleat. As in it is grinding into the sole of the shoe and scraping it. I am having difficulty unclipping this shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strange thin is I'm not having this issue with the left shoe. Ive tried various spinning bikes and I have the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afrain I'm going to grind a hole into my sole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help. :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4544" LastEditorUserId="130" LastEditDate="2012-07-16T10:51:01.657" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T15:37:45.407" Title="SPD cleats damaging mountain bike shoes" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10344" CreationDate="2012-07-16T09:28:35.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most probably you have not screwed it in tight enough. Cleats have to be screwed to the sole really tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the cleat is so small compared to your leg, there is a huge leverage being applied to it when clipping in/unclipping. If it's not tight enough, that's just what you can expect - it will move against the sole at pressure and grind it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T09:28:35.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10341" CreationDate="2012-07-16T10:42:08.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mosso web site doesn't give a full description. Looking at the photo it appears to be a carbon fork with an aluminum steerer tube. This is not an unusual combination. Many road bikes are offered with this setup. I can't say anything about the quality for the price perspective. I did recently purchase a factory Specialized fork that had a carbon fork and aluminum steerer and it was also $80 and that was from my LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T10:42:08.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10341" CreationDate="2012-07-16T10:53:11.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, in this case it means that the steerer tube is alloy, but the fork blades are carbon fiber. About the only products where you may see a layer of carbon over an aluminum core are stems, which is usually to make a cheap stem to match a good quality carbon handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T10:53:11.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10056" CreationDate="2012-07-16T12:25:14.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the b-screw tightened all the way on the medium cage GS-4600 tiagra derailleur I was able to install the 11-32 cassette. It was obvious from the appearance that I wouldn't be able to squeeze any larger of a cassette on the rear wheel without switching to a long cage mountain or touring derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were no issues when shifting with the 34t front chainring in or out of the 32t rear cog.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, using the 50t front chainring, shifting out of the large 32t cog was a little off. It worked, but it was lagging a bit and having a harder time jumping to the next cog, probably due to the chain being too short since I didn't adjust the chain length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be solved by adding a link or two to the chain. However, I'm going to be swapping in a 46t large chainring, so that should address the lack of slack. I shouldn't even be in the big ring in the back and the big ring in the front anyway to avoid cross chaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T12:25:14.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10325" CreationDate="2012-07-16T13:12:44.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just eat the cost and take the bike to a shop you trust and have them fix it properly.  It's probably way more hassle to deal with a shop that sucks if it's not a major repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second step should be to be prepared to fix a flat at any time. I never ride without &lt;li&gt; A patch kit&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Tire levers&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Multi-tool&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Mini-pump or co2 &#xA;&lt;li&gt; Tire boot&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Usually a spare tube as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this stuff fits comfortably in a small under-seat bag, there is never any reason not to have this stuff all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T13:12:44.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-16T13:19:34.330" Score="20" ViewCount="2854" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4534/rider-x&quot;&gt;Rider_X&lt;/a&gt; refers to &quot;guttering the Peleton&quot; in his answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10326/why-is-it-easier-to-follow-a-cyclist-up-hill/10339#10339&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is &quot;Guttering the peloton&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T09:14:32.517" Title="What is guttering the peloton" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10380" CreationDate="2012-07-16T13:30:12.900" Score="8" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4534/rider-x&quot;&gt;Rider_X&lt;/a&gt; referred to rolling attacks in an answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/10339/2355&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. What are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T01:15:10.783" Title="In road racing, what are &quot;rolling attacks&quot;?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10350" CreationDate="2012-07-16T14:14:06.450" Score="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle racing is both about taking whatever small advantages you can, and putting your opponents in as disadvantageous a situation as possible. It's easy to understand this when there is a headwind; in that case, you get the most protection when you are drafting someone else. However, when there is a crosswind, the favored position isn't exactly behind the rider in front. In that case, depending on the strength of the wind and the speed of the peloton, the best position is behind and slightly alee of the rider ahead. Thus, if the wind is coming from left to right, the favored position is behind and slightly to the right of the rider ahead. This is called an echelon, and the riders will be arrayed diagonally from the left side of the road over to the right edge of the road, and they will rotate counterclockwise. If the wind is from the right, everything is reversed. However, the size of the echelon is limited by the width of the road. At some point the echelon is spread across the road and there will be riders in single file right against the right side of the road. Those riders are &quot;in the gutter,&quot; and they are not nearly as protected from the wind as the riders in the echelon; their future is bleak unless they can somehow get into echelon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strong coordinated team can wreak a lot of havoc on opponents in a strong cross wind. They will put the entire team on the front and make the echelon just barely wide enough for the team, and will place a &quot;gatekeeper&quot; at the end of the echelon to prevent other riders from sneaking in. This will &quot;gutter&quot; the rest of the peloton. Smart riders will start forming new echelons behind the original. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teamsky.com/article/0,27290,21579_6998954,00.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;team sky&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/653q2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/653q2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A video explanation and example is available from Eurosport &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/Eurosport/videos/10155037500039745/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-21T09:14:32.517" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T09:14:32.517" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10195" CreationDate="2012-07-16T18:01:29.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the pedal threads were different from the crank threads - e.g., one English and one French.  Not very likely these days, but perhaps more likely than that someone could have somehow managed to force the alternate-threaded pedal into the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T18:01:29.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-16T19:27:59.263" Score="3" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just fixed my first puncture on a recently bought Hardrock (Evans)and discovered that the rear hanger is not attached to the frame.  This made refitting the wheel a bit of a struggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a hole through locating stud so should it have a bolt going through it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4550" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T20:14:34.293" Title="Specialized Hardrock rear hanger" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10294" CreationDate="2012-07-16T20:15:23.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Position can have a huge effect on the intensity of a workout. The relaxed upright position of a beach cruiser, for example, makes it difficult to have an intense workout. Some commuters enjoy a relaxed position and low intensity, while &quot;fitness&quot; commuters seek high intensity. The position of a road bike makes it very comfortable to ride at a fast pace and almost uncomfortable to ride at a slow pace. So it's more about the position of the &quot;better&quot; bikes than the lighter weight (though lightweight bikes may offer a psychological advantage for some).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As anecdotal evidence, I offer the situation of my wife, who on a hybrid bike never exceeded 8 miles per hour. On her first ride on a road bike, she surprised me by averaging around 15 miles per hour. She explained that leaning forward put her in a more athletic mode and almost forced her to ride harder. Likewise, I found the position and handlebars of my mountain bike to be limiting for my fitness-oriented commutes and switched to a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean that if you're a fitness commuter that you need a carbon fiber bike, but rather that you may feel limited by the position, handlebars, and seat style of a hybrid or beach cruiser. A touring bike, a cyclocross bike, or even a racing bike may be more appropriate and comfortable if you're really pushing yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T20:15:23.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10336" CreationDate="2012-07-16T20:39:09.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Touring bikes, as you said, carry way more weight.  Beacuse of this additional weight they are prone to brake squeal and you need to pay closer attention to your wheels for loose spokes and out of alignment rims.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Make sure you have good spoke tension that is even all around the wheel and that the wheel is true.&#xA;The only major difference in brake setup from any other brake setup is just to nose in your pads more so than you would usually for an unloaded bike if it's needed.  It all depends on how flexible the brake mounts/arms are on your bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My Surly Long Haul Trucker doesn't need any nose in when unloaded but when I have an addition of a trailer and fully loaded touring bags the brakes howl when going down hill so I nose them in and the howl goes away.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T20:39:09.663" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10326" CreationDate="2012-07-16T22:01:30.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers I've seen so far offer some general insights. Here, I want to share some sources that go deeper. They discuss equations which help better understand the quantitative relationships between power, speed, air resistance, drafting, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get warmed up, check out this interesting but accessible article by Marilyn Trout: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.voler.com/connect/detail/li/RelationshipBetweenDraftingandClimbing&quot;&gt;Relationship Between Drafting and Climbing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trout quotes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsci.org/jour/9804/dps.html&quot;&gt;Cycling Uphill and Downhill by David Swain&lt;/a&gt; at length. For example: &quot;At very slow speeds (on the order of 16 km/hr or less) air resistance is negligible, and drafting becomes nearly meaningless.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; is the &quot;magic&quot; number 16 km/hr? Let me say: there is no single magic threshold. To figure out that threshold, you have to define, first, what percentage is &quot;small enough&quot; for your question at hand. For example, if you were to ask, at what point does air resistance stop contributing more than 0.5% of your total power output, an equation can give you an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the elite levels, I would make a rough guess that as little as 1 Watt over the course of a long climb could make the difference between victory and second place. My point is this: don't assume drafting is negligible until you have done your homework on what &quot;negligible&quot; means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how do you do your homework? Asking here for thoughts on hill-climbing and drafting is one place to start. But if you want to get a better understanding, ask for references and then read scientific papers. Inside you will find studies and equations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trout mentions this equation from Swain, who cites its source as &lt;a href=&quot;http://jap.physiology.org/content/47/1/201.abstract&quot;&gt;Equation of motion of a cyclist by P. E. di Prampero, G. Cortili, P. Mognoni, and F. Saibene&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;W = (kr M s) + (ka A s v^2) + (g i M s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;W is power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;kr is the rolling resistance coefficient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M is the combined mass of cyclist and bicycle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;s is the bicycle speed on the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ka is the air resistance coefficient&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A is the combined frontal area of cyclist and bicycle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;v is the bicycle speed through the air (i.e. road speed plus head wind speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;g is the gravitational acceleration constant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;i is the road incline (grade; however, this is only an approximation, as the sine of the road angle to the horizontal should technically be used)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to dig into the aerodynamic benefits of drafting, I would recommend checking out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beknowledge.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/cfcd2The%20understanding%20and%20development%20of%20cycling%20aerodynamics.pdf&quot;&gt;The understanding and development of cycling&#xA;aerodynamics by Lukes, Chin, and Haake&lt;/a&gt;. In particular, check out the section on drafting on page 67.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drafting behind a single rider with a 0.2 to 0.5 m gap was found to reduce oxygen consumption by 18 ± 11% at 32 km/h and 27 ± 8% at 37 km/h and&#xA;  40 km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Drafting behind one, two and four riders resulted in the same oxygen consumption reduction at 40 km/h (27 ± 7%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4552" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T22:01:30.860" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10362" CreationDate="2012-07-17T01:42:30.147" Score="10" ViewCount="5774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to purchase a new bike which I love but I hate the color scheme. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any custom bike paint shops in the area. Can I simply take it to a car paint shop and get a professional team bike paint job? The frame is aluminum, the forks are carbon. Am I overlooking something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4553" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T14:33:21.793" Title="Is there any difference between professionally painting a car and a bike frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10360" CreationDate="2012-07-17T02:37:02.143" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to talk to a motorcycle shop that does paint. They are most likely setup to do smaller parts with lots of details. They would be more familiar with masking threaded holes and bearing surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T02:37:02.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2184" CreationDate="2012-07-17T02:51:18.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just been through this in a restoration I'm doing.  I have a decently equipped shop so some people might have to find a friendly mechanic...&#xA;The Park tool simply pulled the threads right out of the crank.  I've not had that problem before so I know it's not me.  I have often suspected that the Park tool is very slightly undersized, so this did not inspire my confidence.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I tried heat (MAP gas, don't use oxyacetylene, it will melt the crank), various solvents/releasing fluids, riding the bike without bolts up steep hills, tapping with hammers on the sides etc...  all to no avail.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Finally before giving up and cutting the damned things off, I took it to my friendly bike shop where their profession-grade tool was able to dig into the remaining threadforms and just barefly get the drive side crank off...but not the other.  From here I could disassemble the bottom bracket and used a 12 ton press to push the axle out of the right crank arm.  The taper LOOKS OK, but before re-installing, I'm setting up to bore out the crank arms and push in a steel threaded insert.  I'm going to try retaining the insert with just friction and Locktite Green (671) but it may need to be peened.  Doing it this way shouldn't weaken the crank arm and will provide steel threads to pull against next time.... Not the answer for everybody, and it may be too costly to hire a machinest.  Even with the tools and ability, it would probably be cheaper on some scale to just buy a new crankset, but then why replace when I can fix it?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4555" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T02:51:18.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10360" CreationDate="2012-07-17T08:38:47.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have repainted almost every single bike I have owned and have found the absolute best way to be sure you are satisfied with the finished product is to strip the frame COMPLETELY! Pop out all the bearing cups, remove the wheels, cranks, chain, everything that is not welded on. Automotive shops can do it, and might be the best but might not be the cheapest, and even if you mask it, bikes are easier to spot minor mistakes on. Don't forget about places that powder paint farming fences or folding chairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always preferred to do it myself. I was trained to paint cars, but it really isn't hard, just remember to start the motion before pressing the trigger and release it while still in the stroke. Stay about 8-12 inches from the bike. (and be careful when touching up around the string)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest going to a paint shop that sells touch-up paint for cars and have them sell you 2 or 3 spray cans of the paint you want (you can customize to any color on the planet and include &quot;pearl&quot; for that cool shine). Most bikes can be done in 2, but get 3 just in case. string the bike up through the head tube to a tree or something and give it a nice thin bottom coat. Let it dry in the sun for a few hours. Give it a 2nd thin coat. Dry it over night. Then apply the 3rd coat and let it dry. As long as you have decent paint and don't over paint any of the layers, it should last for YEARS!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T08:38:47.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10310" CreationDate="2012-07-17T09:05:49.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my line of riding, it was imperative that you knew more tricks than your competition, or at least knew how to do them better than the other guy. So yes, in my case you MUST learn tricks to be a &quot;GOOD&quot; rider. After reading about pumping uphill for hours, I am going to take a stab in the dark and assume that you are not a competitor in the X-Games though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride trails, learn to bunny-hop to get over logs. Even road riders should be able to at least jump a curb's height for emergencies (I got squeezed between a bus and a snowbank in Japan and my ability to hop a curb saved me). Endos/stoppies are fun to do and teaches you front-end balance, but not required (can't remember the last time an endo saved me on the trails). Skids, rear-wheel hops, track-stands, everything else you can think of will all help teach you fundamentals of bike handling, but other than a bunny hop, I can't think of anytime any of my tricks helped other than to show off for some girls.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wsw9v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T09:05:49.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10360" CreationDate="2012-07-17T10:58:17.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my wife's frame to a local powder coating shop after having the seat tube replaced. I had it completely stripped down with all bearings and attachments removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They did a really good job and masked all the thread holes. The only awkward thing was that they hadn't masked the pegs where the cantilever brakes are mounted so they needed sanding back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was just something that I didn't think about mentioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T10:58:17.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10369" CreationDate="2012-07-17T11:15:51.003" Score="12" ViewCount="15486" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone suggested going with a 700c wheel to go faster, and after thinking about it I am wondering if a larger wheel actually does go faster. I understand that your gears will cause a wheel to rotate once and if the wheel has a larger circumference it will travel farther, but this comes at a cost to leg power, and why not just get a larger sprocket? So cut out the gears and such and talk about the physics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was lead to believe that rotating weight is what slows you down, so a larger wheel will have more mass, thus making it harder to push, hence slowing you down. A bike with 12&quot; tires going the same speed as one with a 700c will have less rotating weight so will it be more efficient? If you are on a flat track with thin, hard tires and your bikes are geared to be equally efficient to pedal at low and high speeds, which wheel will make you faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T14:04:34.480" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T10:42:53.310" Title="Does a 700c wheel help you go faster?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;physics&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-17T11:25:51.283" Score="4" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did bicycle road racing always have teams? Were the early road races competed by individuals who were racing for themselves? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point was it realized that having a team would confer huge strategic advantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4537" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T14:59:52.213" Title="Were there always teams in road racing?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10367" CreationDate="2012-07-17T12:08:24.123" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The increased weight of the larger wheel (if indeed it does increase) will of course add weight to the bike, but additional weight adds very little rolling resistance (though it does of course affect hill climbing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a myth that &quot;rotating mass slows you down&quot;.  In terms of top speed there's no difference between weight on the wheel rim and weight anywhere else on the bike.  Added weight on the wheel rim does reduce acceleration, but 10 grams on the wheel rim only has the acceleration-limiting effect of 20 grams elsewhere -- it's not really enough to notice.  (And once you've accelerated to speed this effect goes away.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger wheel can ride over slight irregularities in the road with less energy expenditure, and so can be more efficient (and less tiring) in some circumstances.  And a larger wheel generally is more stable (though at the expense of maneuverability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T12:08:24.123" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10368" CreationDate="2012-07-17T14:23:16.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/P5AFhJ1w7pw&quot;&gt;this interesting video&lt;/a&gt; about the history of the Tour de France, at some point the narrator explicitly mentions the period (during the 70s if I remember well) when great cycling events beginned to change from a one-to-one fight amongst a few super-strong riders (typical example: Merckx) to a teamwork fight amongst well-orchestrated, hierarchical teams (typical example: Armstrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think (and the video also mentions it) that this is due, among other things, to an increased understanding - and acceptance - of the importance of aerodynamics (LeMond), and also to advances in scientific training, which leveled the differences between well-prepared riders, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the role of the team in one or another era can be inferred from the very title of another excelent video, &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/flmj2vwpsuI&quot;&gt;&quot;Stars and Watercarriers&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T14:23:16.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10368" CreationDate="2012-07-17T14:40:01.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the first editions of Tour de France individuals and teams were allowed to participate. Because of some events and &lt;em&gt;underhand&lt;/em&gt; tactics of sponsored teams only national teams were allowed to participate between 1930 and 1961 (not sure about the period).&#xA;In 1962 trade teams returned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3938" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T14:40:01.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2012-07-17T14:44:47.100" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you use the brakes and the pads wear down, the oil will heat up and expand. This pushes oil back up into the reservoir, and when the oil cools off the pistions will suck away from the rotors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the brakes and you'll notice the pads probably aren't floating against the rotor as they should be, but when you squeeze the handle most of the motion is moving the pads to the rotor. When pads and rotors are new this doesn't happen because the pads are thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleeding doesn't help this, as it's normal as pads wear. The pumping you do during braking doesn't move enough fluid back into the lines to get the pads to set back next to the rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quick, easy and proper way to fix is to take the wheel off, and continuously quickly pump the handle until the pads meet in the middle of the caliper. When you can't squeeze any more then you've loaded the lines. Then using a clean flat tip driver, gently pry them open just slightly enough to get the rotor back in. Your brakes will feel like new and should feel good for awhile longer. The more your pads wear however, the more you will have to perform this little reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4557" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T14:44:47.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-07-17T14:49:51.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An air horn could catch them by surprise long enough to make a get away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4558" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T14:49:51.743" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10368" CreationDate="2012-07-17T14:59:52.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth mentioning that even though at first the major cycling events were strictly individual, soon teams started emerging in a &quot;natural&quot;, free market way. The stronger riders, who had a real chance of winning, began to pay off the weaker competitors to serve as domestiques. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was at first considered &quot;underhanded&quot;, like Marius Balaban mentions, and the cycling federations fought it at first. What happened later can be pictured as a win for reason, common sense and free market, or as a travesty of noble sports ideals, depending on how you are inclined to view the world...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T14:59:52.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10383" CreationDate="2012-07-17T18:38:45.267" Score="11" ViewCount="11834" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be nice to be able to estimate the grade of a road while riding, even if the estimate is not completely accurate. With a GPS, in theory it should be possible in theory to ride a short distance and divide the difference in elevation by the distance ridden to get a rough estimate. (Note that the sine and tangent are comparable for small angles.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the elevation given by a cell phone or GPS-equipped bike computer accurate enough to give a meaningful grade estimate over short distances? Furthermore, is there any practical way to estimate the grade of a road that does not require a GPS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T22:18:22.650" Title="Is it possible to estimate road grade while riding?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;physics&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10376" CreationDate="2012-07-17T18:43:07.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cell phones, usually not. Some applications will attempt to massage the data using elevation information provided from third-parties, but its a crapshoot at best. A dedicated GPS with a barometric altimeter is probably your best bet. I can't really speak to their level of accuracy, but it's certainly better than other practical options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; want grade, &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ihandy-level-free/id299852753?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;there's an app for that&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T18:51:57.620" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T18:51:57.620" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-17T19:08:30.567" Score="1" ViewCount="3190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new bike but the front brake doesn't work. I tried reading up about the brake system on line and learned quite a bit (they're cantilever brakes). But I am missing something elementary and simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Should the brake cable housing (the outer housing that the thin brake cable runs through) be affixed to the brake lever? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) If so, how do I attach it? My bike has two brakes -- Shimano STI levers and Tektro safety levers on the front. The cable runs through both, but there is no tension in either, and the housing doesn't attach to the Tektro lever -- it kind of just slips out of where the adjuster is located. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this must be a really simple problem, which is why I'm frustrated not to find instructions for what I should try to resolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any advice or pointers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4560" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T01:55:06.317" Title="Brake cable housing doesn't attach to lever" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10376" CreationDate="2012-07-17T19:24:56.680" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?cID=160&quot;&gt;Garmin Edge series&lt;/a&gt; GPS cycling computers can display grade.  The Edge 500 and Edge 800 (not the Edge 200) have barometric altimeters to determine altitude.  You can then change or add a display data field to show the current grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Funny you ask as I just put added the grade as a display field this morning on a hilly ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It updates the grade calculation ever 100-200 m of horizontal travel (guestimate) so there is a little delay before you get an up-to-date grade calculation.  Overall the grade estimate seems quite reasonable, if you take into the account the delay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also many computer applications can take a GPS track log, and retrieve the known altitude of that point and compute grade after the fact.  For example if you using OS X I know &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.montebellosoftware.com/&quot;&gt;Ascent&lt;/a&gt; does this (&lt;strong&gt;note&lt;/strong&gt; I am NOT endorsing this program, just using it as a known example).  I am also sure there are many other GPS track analysis programs that do as well.  I am sure there are some smartphone applications that can record an GPS track, which you could potentially import into one of these analysis programs to get the grade after the fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aside&lt;/strong&gt; - Some of the older discontinued Edge Units (e.g. Edge 305, 705) have barometric altimeters as well.  This can be a more affordable option if you can find a used one on ebay or craigslist.  I say this as I am about to list my old Edge 305 after upgrading to an Edge 800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T19:24:56.680" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10351" CreationDate="2012-07-17T20:06:09.583" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Rolling attacks&quot; are a series of sequential attacks on the peloton by typically a team or a group of riders acting as a team.  R. Chung covered this nicely in the comment section, but I will expand a bit here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically you get two or three groups of riders  together to orchestrate this (where a group may consist of one or more riders).  The first group launches an attack (preferably when there is a lull in the peloton after a recent hard effort - gotta make it hurt to respond). They will either escape or the peloton hunts them down.  The exact moment the first group is caught, the second group launches another attack.  The moment they are caught the third or first group (depending on how many groups of riders you have) launches an attack. You then keep repeating as necessary or logical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea behind doing this is that typically only a few riders (often tasked with this job) hunt down the breaks.  If you have the manpower, by doing this you are working to wear out the other teams by brute force. Eventually, if you are lucky, the peloton may decide not to respond and you have yourself a break or you have tired out key players on the other teams.  Again this only really works if you have a manpower advantage, leaving a few riders who are never involved with the attacks to conserve for the sprint or some other similar strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a caveat, I will add that I am not certain how much this strategy shows up in big shows (such as the Tour de France or Tour de Giro) as they know so much about the capabilities of the various riders, but I saw this was fair bit in our local racing scene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T20:06:09.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10385" CreationDate="2012-07-17T20:50:37.240" Score="32" ViewCount="19855" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever designed or manufactured an automatic transmission (or automatic shifter?) for cycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine such a device would automatically change the gearing to allow the rider to maintain constant cadence or constant torque on the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to daydream about the existence of such a system many years ago when riding my first (battered, second hand) racer as it was such an ordeal to change gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4537" LastEditorUserId="8643" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T00:17:18.013" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T12:56:20.217" Title="Is there such thing as an automatic transmission for bikes?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-07-17T21:12:11.850" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been barked at by dogs and they looked like they were about to attack. So i barked and growled louder,  I have never seen such a surprized look on a dogs face before. I kind of wonder what I said in dog language. That kinda surprized my neighbor too (not the dogs owner)!!!!!&#xA; One other time I was chased by a dog so I stopped to growl and he came up to me just to be friendly. I guess ya just play it out as the dog reacts to you. Remember you are bigger and potentiality the alpha in the encounter. I am not wild about chemicals, either against animals or people, BUT I did see a small air horn at Autozone. it was about 5 inches long and maybe 3/4 inch diameter. A big loud noise should scare off any attacker. Human or animal. Or at least it will atract attention to your location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4535" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T21:12:11.850" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10376" CreationDate="2012-07-17T21:53:12.083" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get an inclinometer.  They're not particularly accurate, but readout is instant and the price is right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BT1jb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T21:53:12.083" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2012-07-17T21:56:27.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been attempts over the years, but never particularly successful.  One I recall used a 5-speed rear hub that was shifted by weights on the spokes, similar to a centrifugal governor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that, with the new electric shifters, there will be some new attempts at it in the next year or two.  With a computer it should be possible to be reasonably &quot;smart&quot;, especially if mated to some sort of torque meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T21:56:27.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2012-07-17T22:00:31.493" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.landriderbikes.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.landriderbikes.com&lt;/a&gt; They were very heavily advertised several years ago but currently they seem to show up more on craigslist than on TV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tXHGx.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tXHGx.png&quot; alt=&quot;landrider website screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T23:10:39.650" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T23:10:39.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2012-07-17T22:01:51.333" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trek had a bicycle a few years ago named &quot;Lime&quot; which had 3 speed automatic gearing. I don't think it sold well. It used a gearing system called &quot;Coasting&quot; that was created by Shimano and actually controlled by a computer chip from signals from the front hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JAfkr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JAfkr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Trek Lime promo image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A dynamo is fitted on the front hub that gauges the revolutions of the wheel. It sends this information to a computer chip housed near the pedals on most of the bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, the chip, which controls the planetary gears located on the back hub, determines whether to shift up or down. All the chip needs to make its determination is for a rider to pedal four or five times, according to Shannon Bryant, Coasting project coordinator for Shimano.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T23:16:41.107" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T23:16:41.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10378" CreationDate="2012-07-18T01:55:06.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK. Thanks for the additional info. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by making sure that the brake cable is connected to your drop lever. Check this out: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/shift-levers-shifters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/shift-levers-shifters&lt;/a&gt;. The cable itself has a metal tab crimped onto the end that connects it to the lever. (Find the relevant photo. The brake cable is the larger cable. If this doesn't look familiar, you can search for more specific instructions on brake cable replacement for your particular STI model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cable is correctly seated in the lever, make sure the cable hasn't become unclamped at the cable yoke (the metal bit which connects to your straddle cable linking the two sides of your cantilever calipers). You should be able to gently pull down on that yoke and feel the pull of the lever when you depress it. You can read Sheldon Brown's instruction on canti adjustment here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure before you make any adjustments that the housing is seated at all of the cable stops. Also make sure that you are relatively confident in your skills here. Your front brake provides MOST of your braking force. If in doubt, definitely bring it back to the shop you purchased it from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T01:55:06.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7832" CreationDate="2012-07-18T01:56:46.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to fold the chain zig-zag style so that only the outer links are exposed (the inner links are only exposed at a bare minimum). After cleaning it, spray light coats and watch for any dripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you let it dry, use WD40 or something similar to get in between the links easily and work the chain by hand link by link to make sure it rolls smoothly. I worked in a folding chair manufacturing shop in their paint department. After they painted the chairs it was my job to get them folding proper, and that is what we did. Works for chains too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T01:56:46.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10367" CreationDate="2012-07-18T06:58:50.600" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheel size is a trade off. In some ways, you want the wheel as small as possible, in other ways you want the wheel as large as possible. There is no &quot;right&quot; size really, except that it's handy to have the same size as everyone else so standards have risen up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of a &lt;strong&gt;smaller wheel&lt;/strong&gt; is they are cheaper (less materials to make them), they have less aerodynamic drag (because you're closer to the ground), the rider themselves is closer to the ground (and therefore more easy to control the bike) and they are lighter. The last one is a biggy, because the wheel is spinning which creates complex forces that I won't explain... but suffice to say &lt;strong&gt;the wheels are the most important place on the whole bike to reduce weight&lt;/strong&gt;, and the weight of the wheel dramatically effects your ability to change the bike's direction while the wheel is spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of a &lt;strong&gt;larger wheel&lt;/strong&gt; is that the angle of the tyre when it hits a bump is better, and therefore the bumps will not slow you down as much. Also, many of the benefits of a small wheel (like keeping the rider closer to the ground) only start to become a problem above a certain size. Anyone who's ever ridden a skate board or rollerblades will point out a tiny bump can basically stop you dead in your tracks with small wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, you want your wheel as small as possible... but not so small that bumps will slow you down. A BMX is much easier to throw around when doing stunts, but you won't ever get it to go fast without a perfectly smooth surface (I have ridden a BMX with high gearing once... it required a lot of effort to keep up with someone on a typical adult bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars have good suspension, so they can get away with smaller wheels. But notice that off road motorcycles/cars tend to have larger wheels, sacrificing on road performance so they handle bumps better (you can really feel the extra weight of the wheels on an off road motorcycle, especially above 50kph/30mph. Even switching to tyres with deeper tread completely changes the handling characteristics of mine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day though, you should stick to the most common size wheel, because it's just more practical. You'll have more choice and better prices when buying tyres/tubes/etc, and the standard sizes are perfectly fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4564" LastEditorUserId="4564" LastEditDate="2012-07-18T07:07:19.527" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T07:07:19.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4526" CreationDate="2012-07-18T07:24:29.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you import a GPX track into Google Earth, it offers to adjust the elevation data to match their internal database of worldwide elevation. From there, you can export it as a track again, to use as you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the simple reality of how GPS works, elevation data is never going to be as accurate as lat/lon position. Even with expensive setups the elevation still isn't anywhere near as accurate as the lat/lon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4564" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T07:24:29.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4628" CreationDate="2012-07-18T07:33:02.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be psychological  but i think you can deliver more force to the pedals with a backpack. F=MA.  Backpacks are better if you jump a lot of kerbs or carry sensitive stuff like hard drives or soft fruit. That said, I have had a pair of ortlieb panniers for over 10years and think they are great, still waterproof after much abuse . Any system that gets the weight low is best. I also have a well loved BOB trailer that has towed ridiculous amounts of shopping, hardware, other bikes and a chainsaw. Like many thongs in life no single solution the best option all the time. If you can justify buying one less car then you justify buying just about any bike related gear. You can even defer gym membership, grocery shopping was one of my biggest workouts  when i lived on top of a 15% hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4565" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T07:33:02.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10376" CreationDate="2012-07-18T09:22:21.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others have already discussed GPS and GPS-enabled phones, altimetric barometers, and inclinometers. Bubble inclinometers (such as the Skymounti shown elsewhere among the answers) can be affected by acclerations so to get the best readings you should be stationary. dGPS (differential GPS) is used in surveying instruments to measure grades, but these are generally not consumer-level devices, nor are they compact enough for bicycle use. Grades can also be measured, while stopped, with a long straightedge, a protractor, and a plumb line. Some phones and other devices (such as iPods and Wii controllers) have built-in multi-axis accelerometers that will report gradient information as you ride, but reports are that their precision can be affected by bumpy roads. The iBike line of bicycle computers use a combination of barometric, speed, and accelerometer sensors; reportedly, the gradient estimates can be quite good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, one of the most precise devices that can be used to determine road grade while on a bicycle is a well-calibrated power meter. Under favorable conditions, road grade can be extracted from speed and power data (if one knows or can measure a few other variables). For example, here is a comparison of the profile of the flat Moriarty, New Mexico, TT course on which the 40 km US national time trial record was set. The course is a straight out-and-back (that is, 20km out, a turn-around, and then 20km back for a total of 40km) and one of the flattest in the country, with only 30 meters of drop over 20km for an average gradient of .0015 (0.15%). The plot below shows three traces: a measurement of the gradient using a consumer-level GPS receiver in blue, and two traces (in red and green) derived from power meter measurements. The green line shows the reconstructed elevation profile on a day with unfavorable conditions, while the red line shows the reconstructed profile on a favorable day. Because this course is an out-and-back, the profiles before and after the 20km point should be mirror images, and at the end should match up at the same elevation. As can be seen, under favorable conditions the profile reconstructed from the power meter outperforms that from a GPS (though on an unfavorable day the profile is much worse).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lvvkD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Moriarty NM time trial course elevation profiles&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For another example, here is the reconstructed elevation profile for a multi-use path along the shore of San Francisco Bay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wFssm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bay trail elevation profile&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows the profile over a 1 mile (=1.6 km) out-and-back segment of the trail. Once again, you can see that the two halves of the reconstructed profile are mirror images, and the average slope was about .00125. Just as importantly, you can easily spot consistent dips in the trail of less than 40 cm (about a foot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description of the analytical method used for these two plots and the additional data required is given &lt;a href=&quot;http://anonymous.coward.free.fr/wattage/cda/indirect-cda.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T09:22:21.700" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-18T10:09:45.720" Score="0" ViewCount="1176" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the pedal arms in my bike is loosening off the crank every so often. When it starts to happen, the pedal arm, that has square ends, and the nut will end up detaching from the crank, so I have to tighten it back up with a socket wrench like the one in the picture below as tight as I can, but after a few weeks it will start to loosen again. Everything else seems to be ok otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y2s5Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to fix this problem permanently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2012-07-18T14:30:14.007" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T14:30:14.007" Title="pedal falling off axis" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10393" CreationDate="2012-07-18T11:35:46.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it the pedal or the crank arm?  I'm presuming the crank arm, since you wouldn't tighten a pedal with a socket wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the crank arm is coming lose regularly then most likely the &quot;socket&quot; in the arm, where it attaches to the crank axle, has become deformed from riding it loose.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's possible that you've just not been tightening the crank bolt tight enough -- it needs to be VERY TIGHT.  (The Park Tools website has torque specifications for many brands, if you want to look there.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can lessen the chance of the bolt loosening by using a &lt;em&gt;removable&lt;/em&gt; thread lock compound on the bolt.  Also, if the crank axle has square (vs splined) ends and the crank arm socket has become badly deformed, a clever person can make shims from a pop/beer can to eliminate the &quot;play&quot; -- not a permanent fix, but enough to squeeze a few more months of use from the setup before you must replace the crank arm (and possible the crank axle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T11:35:46.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9237" CreationDate="2012-07-18T11:56:18.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Safety can be thought of as a packet of swiss cheese slices. Each slice is an imperfect barrier (crashes progress through the holes) but if you have enough slices you can eventually block all the holes and have a strong system preventing crashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visibility and a helmet is the last line of your swiss cheese defence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I absolutely agree with riding predictable vehicular style but always be prepared to take evasive action. The more escape paths available the better you can deal with the unexpected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People see what they expect to see.&#xA;Looking is different to seeing.&#xA;Look &lt;a href=&quot;http://theinvisiblegorilla.com/videos.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and you will see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you will hopefully never assume a driver has seen you. This does not mean you give way to everybody though, usually just a judgment on safe buffer distance and speed. Is the driver looking at me? Do they appear distracted (mobile phone, screaming kids, headbanging teens, dog licking drivers face)? Are their wheels starting to roll forward anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a spinning rainbow windsock attached to a flag on our baby trailer. I think the colour, motion, size and wtf factor all contribute to drivers looking and seeing. The kids like it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The windsock flag stuck in a backpack has also been good protection from swooping birds, during nesting season magpies and butcher birds are more psycho scary than any driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some recent (night time) research also found drivers differentiate humans from inanimate objects faster when reflectives placed on joints (Google visibility biomotion qut)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4565" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T11:56:18.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10399" CreationDate="2012-07-18T13:38:50.093" Score="20" ViewCount="5621" Body="&lt;p&gt;Big question: Is there any way to increase the security of bolted on portions of a bicycle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifics: I cycle as my primary mode of transport (in East London) on a early 90s steel road bike with drop bars. It's a good bike, though it could use a paint job. A few weeks ago my bicycle was securely locked in a place with moderate foot traffic (I'd guess someone walked by every 3-5 minutes) for about 4 hours. During that time, someone undid my (quill) stem and the brake cables (at the caliper) and made off with my handlebars, stem, brake levers and brake cabling. So with that in mind, does anyone know of means to secure that portion of my bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Part of my concern is that I'd love to move to STI/Ergos from my current downtube thumb shifters, but I can't escape the nagging feeling that a move like that would have massively increased the replacement cost of this theft, and I'm yet to find an acceptable security strategy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;Was just directed to &lt;a href=&quot;https://pinheadlocks.com/store/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://pinheadlocks.com/store/en/&lt;/a&gt;  by &lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/jstutters/status/225587002194661377&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jstutters on twitter&lt;/a&gt; which is clearly close to what I'm after, though not quite right for a quill stem. If anyone has experience with this sort of system, I'd love to hear about it and if anyone knows of something similar that works with quill stems/threaded headsets that would also be very useful·&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second Update(Nov 2014):&#xA;I've taken to using a full setup from &lt;a href=&quot;http://atomic22.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://atomic22.com&lt;/a&gt; they're pricy, but exactly what I was after. Been using them for a couple months now and am thus far very pleased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2636" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-06-08T15:30:55.157" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T15:30:55.157" Title="Deterrents against partial (component) theft" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10646" CreationDate="2012-07-18T15:56:12.917" Score="3" ViewCount="1808" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, my Rohloff-geared bicycle started to make a regular clicking sound with a ratchety feeling associated with it. Besides a click, I feel a small resistance transmitted through the pedals. This is the same click that I always feel (have been from the start) when I'm stationary, put weight on the pedals, and change gears. But now I get it at a regular interval when riding; it happens every couple of turns of the pedals. I think it's coming from my Rohloff hub. My hub is a bit more than 3 years old, and I've done 12000 km with it. My last oil change was less than 2 months ago. The only component I have replaced since the bicycle was new was the bottom bracket, which failed last winter so which is now new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bring it along the bikestore for a specialist to have a look at it, but the nearest specialist is 1600 km (1000 mi) away, shipping the bicycle back and forth would cost hundreds of euros. I'm slightly worried that, if it is related to the hub, I might be damaging it by continuing to ride on it. At my last oil change I spilt a little bit of oil, but I'm pretty sure most of the oil went in, so the oil should be sufficient. Should I do another oil change, just to be sure and just to see if it gets rid of the clicking sound? Or is it more likely to be caused by another factor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly related questions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=676.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1326/how-do-i-get-rid-of-this-clicking-sound-in-the-back-wheel&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T01:57:35.297" Title="Rohloff clicking sound with ratchety feeling" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10396" CreationDate="2012-07-18T16:04:14.517" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;For quill stems, you can use a rubber cement to glue a ball-bearing into the socket on the stem bolt, making it so you can't get at it with an allen key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd obviously want to use a glue that can be removed with a solvent, so that you'd be able to do regular service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4568" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T16:04:14.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10396" CreationDate="2012-07-18T17:08:53.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One additional technique that works quite well is to camouflage your bike by making it look UGLY. Add reflective tape bits everywhere. Leave scratches and scuffs or cover them with a clear or mismatched paint. Put a ratty cover on your saddle. Cover brand names wherever possible. Zip tie junk wherever. Soft beeswax mixed with food coloring and rubbed on chrome parts will protect the parts and make them look terrible. Get creative! You can go a long way to making a great bike look like a total junker, which makes it a less than ideal target-especially for opportunistic thieves. Ideally you can do this without damaging your bike, too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The uglifying technique alone won't stop bike theft, but it takes your bike off of the radar of most thieves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be worth it to consider buying an actual junker for commuting and keeping your nice ride for nice rides (considering a cheap bike costs $100-200 while replacing your wheels/handlebar groups/brakes/etc costs much more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T17:08:53.933" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10398" CreationDate="2012-07-18T18:11:47.950" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Rohloff and have sent some emails to the factory due to severe oil spill (had to replace the seals, successfully). From what they have told me, the 25ml of oil is more than double the necessary amount for the hub to work fine, since the oil is very sticky and it distributes inside the hub. Even the unavoidable oil &quot;sweating&quot; should be considered normal, they say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I hosted a rider which had a very heavy bike, with 40.000+ on the bike, going to Patagonia (South America). He ultimately LOCKED the hub, being only able to push the bike, not pedal forward or backwards. Rohloff replaced the hub for free, but he had to travel to the capital 1600km away to receive the package :o(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt very much that lack/excess of oil is the problem. I agree with what folks are saying about the chain/sprocket (either too tight or otherwise defective, with a frozen link, or a bent chainring tooth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I suggest you is to isolate the drivetrain from the problem: be sure the chainring, chain, sprocket and chaintensioner (if any) are not generating the click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not so, write to Rohloff describing your problem as thoroughly as possible, they are VERY supportive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The not-so-good news is that Rohloff, besides being a marvel of engineering indeed, is not as nearly as bomb-proof as a lot of fanboys tend to propagate, if it is used hard for a long time, some part replacements are unavoidable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And even with Rohloff, some defects can appear, and the exact building of the hub has changed over the years to avoid common patterns of failure detected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it is not possible to be sure if the hub is defective or not, at least via this site, but I hope this helps. Any question in the comments, and I'll be ready to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T18:11:47.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9214" CreationDate="2012-07-18T22:13:25.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can generally find a great deal on a used single speed 29er. Everyone likes to try it, few stick with it. Or with your busget, they find they love it, and upgrade selling their &quot;starter&quot; SS 29er. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try your local Craigslist.org, MTBR.com and ebay.com  for deals on used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T22:13:25.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10404" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-18T23:51:22.313" Score="3" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a bike with which to get around Atlanta.  My budget is about $500.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen lots of suggestions for a fixie but those seem relatively difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to ride about 5-10 miles a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need a bike in order to get around as quickly as possible.  There are few hills, but pot holes and poorly paved roads are a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not need racks or fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4569" LastEditorUserId="4569" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T00:12:21.890" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T15:25:23.990" Title="Suggestions on buying a road bike for the city" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10404" CreationDate="2012-07-19T00:07:49.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A $500 budget is a little tight, but you can probably find something.  If by &quot;road bike&quot;, though, you mean a bike with drop bars, you're going to have to scratch a little harder, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, one thing to keep in mind is that national outfits like REI will start discounting the list prices on their bikes very shortly (if not already), and the later you wait in the &quot;season&quot; the better deal you're apt to get (though of course selection will diminish somewhat).  Local bike shops (in your area) are less apt to do this, but are probably more willing to bargain any time of the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do recommend you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/category/4500003&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;REI web site&lt;/a&gt; since they have a nice selection of decent quality bikes (though mostly over your price range).  You'll get a fairly good feel for what you can get for the money there.  (But I'm really not pushing REI, it's just an outfit I'm familiar with.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T00:07:49.963" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10404" CreationDate="2012-07-19T02:29:58.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With this budget, a used bike will get you the best bang for your buck. I was able to find a ten to fifteen year old road bike with good components (Ultegra) and an aluminum frame for around $600. A friend found a twenty to thirty year old road bike with a steel frame and downtube shifters for around $300. Both were in good condition and have high quality components, with the age of the bikes being the main sacrifice. If you're looking for a nice road bike, you can do it with your budget as long as you're willing to go used, but a new bike in this price range will just disappoint you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T02:29:58.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9983" CreationDate="2012-07-19T02:46:38.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I've found &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/AI2eab6UCQXF2oI6WYGjmfGn2AKwj8ORWSnDla3YG14/mtime:1301946040/sites/default/files/techdocs/2011-revelation-technical-manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this technical manual &lt;/a&gt;for RS Revelation 2011 to be extremely usrfull. I removed lower legs and relubricated dual air spring.&#xA;Everything is simple enough if you have appropriate tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note that grease in air spring was very strange: it was partly liquid and partly it still was viscous. Anyway, I removed all of this grease and applied new to o-rings and top-cap thread. By now (2 to 3 weeks later) fork didn't lose any significant amount of pressure anymore, so that worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that you will need to add 5 to 8ml (it's maximum) of 5w fork oil to lower legs. &lt;em&gt;(I used 10w fork oil for this purpose and didn't feel any difference)&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;And if you want to service your damper cartridge you will need 123ml 15w fork oil for &lt;strong&gt;Motion Control&lt;/strong&gt; cartridge, and 133ml 15w fork oil for &lt;strong&gt;BlackBox&lt;/strong&gt; cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a link to page, where you can find all &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/service/rockshox/7,107,434&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;technical manuals for Revelation forks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastEditorUserId="1440" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T05:20:04.140" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T05:20:04.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2012-07-19T03:40:22.807" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ridden one - it used weights thrown out by centrifugal force and springs to move the derailleur in and out. Horrible is all I can say. Maybe it was me not being used to it, but things like not being in the gear you left it in, and less than smooth changes - which you have not idea when they are going to happen, especially under power. The only redeeming feature was it was a borrowed bike I could give back at the end of the weekend holiday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, for cruising around a by someone who otherwise would not ride, and only on flat, even  ground), its would do the job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T03:40:22.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10404" CreationDate="2012-07-19T03:43:19.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look to a 3 speed hybrid or a flat bar road bike. Craigslist and ebay may really save you some money. Plenty of deals out there for $500. You may want a touring style / path bike because they will have a bigger volume tire. A true road bike has a 25mm wide tire, and touring / path bike will have a 32 or 35mm wide tire. A little better for the bumps and holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try new with places like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/hybrid_bikes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikesDirect.com hybrids&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/SubCategory_10053_10052_202618_-1_202326_202383&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Nashbars Hybrids&lt;/a&gt; pages. both have deals in the range you are looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T03:43:19.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10430" CreationDate="2012-07-19T05:08:02.703" Score="4" ViewCount="1128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arduino.cc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arduino&lt;/a&gt;-based bicycle computer with GPS at my free time as a hobby project.&#xA;So I have to find out which parameters of ride will be useful to track to see a progress (or any changes) in riding. Later I will surely write software to analyze recorded track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will be recorded anyway:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trackpoints (latitude, longitude, elevation + time),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cadence,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Current front gear number,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Current rear gear number.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which parameters should be also tracked to get the best result in ride analysis?&#xA;Or maybe there is some articles about bicyclists training on the web, that I can read to get more information that could be usefull?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T15:03:29.320" Title="Which parameters should I track with bicycle computer so I can analyze changes in my riding?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10410" CreationDate="2012-07-19T07:22:44.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will obviously be able to get this from your trackpoints, but it can be useful (depending on the frequency of collection of trackpoints) to take speed - directly from your front wheel tacho if possible. This just gives you a higher degree of accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other nice to haves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;accelerometer input - both fore-and-aft, and left-and-right - these can give a good correlation between the movement of the bike and the cadence and gear readings so understand how the power is being transmitted to the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T07:22:44.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10417" CreationDate="2012-07-19T07:27:14.280" Score="2" ViewCount="2033" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I take commute via bike, other times on the bus, but I rarely plan on doing both because I worry about the possibility of waiting for a bus only to find that its bike rack is full and having to wait for the next bus, which may also have a full bike rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you do in this case? I asked a bus driver today on the way home and I couldn't really understand what he was saying, but he said something about a bike rack in the back and I think he was saying that were he not driving the rapid bus and were his schedule different, he would put any extra bikes in the back. Not sure though, he could have said something completely different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4186" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T09:19:33.383" Title="What do you do when the bus bike rack is full?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10344" CreationDate="2012-07-19T11:11:24.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to give you an update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@daniel... I went back to the shop where i had bought the shoes from. The cleat on the right shoe had been put on the back set of holes. The left foot had been on the front set of holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they adjusted them for me. And its clipping out quie easily now. Thanks for all your help and to all of those who responded. You guys rock!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4573" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T11:11:24.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10396" CreationDate="2012-07-19T14:09:44.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard good things about &lt;a href=&quot;http://atomic22.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Atomic 22&lt;/a&gt;, and they have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://atomic22.com/quill-stem.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quill stem&lt;/a&gt; fastener. I haven't used them myself though, so don't take this as a recommendation, and ask around!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other vendor I recall hearing about is Pitlock, but like Pinhead I don't think they have a quill product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the ball-bearing + wax or solder method is probably easiest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T14:09:44.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7769" CreationDate="2012-07-19T14:39:42.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJKbXH2cAyI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dooring crash test video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hitting door - puncture wounds&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hitting pavement - collar bone&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Being thrown into traffic lane and being run over by a following vehicle - fatal&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The faster you are going at impact the further the door will throw you laterally. I recently saw the aftermath of a dooring, a lady was going down a hill and collected a door, she broke her collar bone and was being medically treated where she stopped, in the wheel path of the adjacent traffic lane, very lucky not to be hit by a following vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes most people about 2seconds to perceive a hazard and start to react. A head check, braking and swerving take extra time and distance. Treat this is your safety buffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose a road position to limit buffer incursions from forward and side hazards, claim the lane early to be predictable to following vehicles. Try to reduce  multiple threats to single threats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preparation also includes a good choice of protective clothing (gloves, closed shoes, helmet, stormtrooper armour). If the worst does happen this will help minimise injury and shock, the less dazed and confused you are the faster you can get out of the way of that approaching bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4565" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T14:39:42.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10404" CreationDate="2012-07-19T15:25:23.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had an old 12 speed, steel framed Miele (c. 1982)  move me around Atlanta really well (Northlake area to downtown/midtown/Decatur). The roads in Atlanta are pretty good so my tires at 1.25 in wide, while thick for a racing bike, were plenty thin for commuting and still offered a comfortable ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it does rain a lot in Atlanta, and often suddenly, I had fenders, which if you're commuting are a must. I'd carry my work clothes in a back pack (which with the fenders would not get wet) but would much rather have had a pannier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Performance Bikes (85/N. Druid Hills) I believe even has road bikes (drop bars, light aluminum frame, &gt;18 gears) right in your price range. I'm looking at the Fuji Newest 3.0 for my girlfriend It is a great intro bike especially for what your after and it's only 550 $.  Performance is also across the street from REI so you can ride bikes at both in one day easily and then right down the road is Bicycle South. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4574" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T15:25:23.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10412" CreationDate="2012-07-19T18:19:55.677" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a couple options you can take in this case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ask the bus driver really nicely if you can get on the bus with your bike. I've done this a few times, not because the rack was full, but because there was no rack where there should have been one.  If the bus is quite empty, you can often use the wheelchair accessible seats as a place to put your bike.  Don't be surprised if the driver doesn't let you.  There is no way you can do this during rush hour unless your route isn't used very much.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go on the train/subway. Depending on the rules in your locality, it's often allowed to take your bike on the train.  Even if you have to go out of your way to get to the train, it can be better then waiting for the bus only to find out the racks are empty. Again, maybe not possible during rush hour.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cycle to a location that's before where the majority of people board the bus. Take the following scenario.  Assuming you are downtown, and want to travel home, Travel in the reverse direction along your bus route to a location before the bus gets downtown, or to the first stop if the bus starts downtown. This will give you a better chance of getting to use the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you work at a place that lets you have flexible work hours, adjust your schedule so it isn't during rush hour.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look for a different bus route.  You might have to cycle a bit further to get to the other route, and take a slower bus  (more stops, residential roads, non-direct route) .  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plan a completely different route, and avoid the bus altogether. For a short time I had a 25 km bike ride to work. I would take the bus in the morning as I could get on at the beginning of the route and almost always got a spot on the rack. However in the evening, after a week or so of waiting upwards of half an hour and sometimes giving up at getting a rack spot, I decided it would just be quicker to bike all the way home. Got in really good shape that summer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T18:19:55.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10410" CreationDate="2012-07-19T18:47:19.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Curiously, I've been tinkering with GPS data analysis (taken from some multi-kilometer randonnees, gpx format).&#xA;Since you have the 4D trajectory (latitude, longidude, elevation and timestamp), you could theoretically get any derivative or combination of it. For example, currently I am calculating, for each pair of consecutive points in the trajectory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance (using geodesic distance, haversine function);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed (distance over timedelta);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grade (elevation delta over distance delta);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could be working better, mainly due to these factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It seems that timestamp is recorded as an integer, with one second resolution. That causes a quantization effect which affect speed calculation horribly, specially when the sampling rate is too high (lots of samples per minute);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elevation from GPS alone is not very precise, and causes a lot of noise unless you have a barometric altimeter onboard (which more modern GPS devices already have).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as others have already suggested, I think the way to go is having dedicated cadence and speed sensor, provided that you could log all the coordinates of each trackpoint at the same time (that is, your board should query every sensor at almost the same time to record their values).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, the most useful measure I think should be made by a multi-parameter sensor is torque (and its integral, power) which is what PowerTap hubs and other power meters do. Unfortunately, these are expensive things, since power-metering instrumentation (strain-gauges, piezoeletric stuff) are tricky to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be interesting to extract some metrics from the ride that could tell about the RIDER. For example, some statistic that could tell if a rider is tired or not. So, it would be possible to track evolution of rider's tiring along time, be it between several days or weeks, be it during a long-distance event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T18:47:19.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10423" CreationDate="2012-07-19T19:10:49.127" Score="2" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching Tour de France with my father (who is a cat 3 racer), and he claimed to be able to estimate how fast the riders were going by observing the cyclist on the screen. I didn't believe him at first, but as we watched, and the screen showed their speeds, he was fairly accurate. How is this done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4123" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T20:38:42.113" Title="How do you estimate the speed of Tour de France riders on tv?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10419" CreationDate="2012-07-19T19:29:12.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;He's a good guesser based on the road grade, their visual appearance of exertion, how tight they're riding and how quickly background objects are moving by...and mostly form experience I'd guess. unless he's dead on he's bound to have a &quot;good guess&quot; because they are riding withing a pretty predictable speed band. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you knew was the grade and distance from the finish line you'd be able to make a good guess right now without even looking at the riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4574" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T19:29:12.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-19T20:02:02.567" Score="4" ViewCount="3521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old road bike, that I converted to a hybrid bike, I just use it for small tourings. Some time ago I changed the handlebar, the brake levers and the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently the derailleur broke up, it was in bad shape and there's no way to repair it, so I just want to get a new one, also I would like to replace the shifters, as they are the old ones that are on the frame, and put triggers like an MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has a 6 speed cassette, I was thinking in a cheap &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-Rder-7SPD-Tx55-Direct/dp/B005ZR41KI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1342725799&amp;amp;sr=8-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Tourney derailleur&lt;/a&gt; but I can't happen to find trigger shifters of 6 speed on online stores. My idea would be to put a 7 speed shifter with just 6 speeds and someday change the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you think? Would be possible to put a 7 speed cassette? Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4572" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T21:25:09.467" Title="change derailleur and shifter in an old road bike reconverted to hybrid" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10421" CreationDate="2012-07-19T20:12:42.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's best to have chain, shifters that match your cassette, both in terms of number of speeds and make (and to a lesser extent model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a non-matching configuration, your chain will try to sit slightly between gears in certain settings, which is actually &lt;em&gt;rather&lt;/em&gt; annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, what you propose will work for locomotion, and depending on how much annoyance you're cool with bearing in a given day it may work well enough for your desires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tell you these things as someone who has piecemeal upgraged from 7 to 9 speeds; it isn't an ideal solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T20:12:42.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10419" CreationDate="2012-07-19T20:38:42.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not that hard for someone with a lot of riding experience. Often times you can tell the gear a rider is in from the TV. Then you can see the rider's cadence, and the road grade is often given. So it's fairly easy to guess the speed to +-2 mph. Plus, on a mostly flat road, the peleton will be riding at somewhere between 24-27mph, unless they are trying to chase down the lead group. If the lead group is gaining on the peleton, you know they are riding somewhere north of 24-27. And the opposite would be true. At the end of the sprint, the lead riders will be somewhere between 30-35. Given all this, it's not hard to fairly accurately guess the pace of any individual rider, at any given time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T20:38:42.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10421" CreationDate="2012-07-19T20:53:32.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the age of your bike the derailleur may or may not fit. Most forward facing rear drops from the 80's and 90's used a small bolt to position the derailleur and the axle nut to secure it in place. More modern bikes mount the derailleur with a separate piece of hardware to a separate deraileur hanger. The Tourney appears to use a separate hanger. Doing some on line research it seems the tourney is offered in both types of mounts. The TX 35 mounts for the forward faced drops. The TX 55 mounts for a derailleur hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T21:12:33.590" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T21:12:33.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10421" CreationDate="2012-07-19T20:53:53.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no problem with having a shifter with more &quot;speeds&quot; than the derailer/cluster, so long as the pitch between the components is the same.  The shifter will simply stop shifting when it hits the limit.  (Generally speaking you probably want the &quot;dead&quot; gear to be the highest one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Just did some digging on Sheldon's site.  6-speed clusters come in 5.0, 5.3, and 5.5 spacing.  Pretty much all 7-speed clusters are 5.0.  But essentially zero 6-speed clusters are designed for indexed shifting, whereas virtually all 7-speed clusters are designed for indexed shifting.  This means that 7-speed (indexed) shifters would would not down-shift (to a larger sprocket) a 6-speed cluster very well.  You need friction shifters.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T21:25:09.467" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T21:25:09.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10426" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-07-20T02:04:25.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A local bike shop (LBS) repairs and sells bicycles, parts, and accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag should be used for questions about how to interact with local bike shops. It should not be used for questions indirectly related to bike shops (e.g., what type of bike should I buy?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Local bike shops often support the local cycling community, and it is considered polite to patronize and support local bike shops when possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-20T09:16:12.617" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T09:16:12.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10427" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-07-20T02:04:25.727" Score="0" Body="a local bike shop (LBS) repairs and sells bicycles, parts, and accessories" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-20T09:16:18.527" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T09:16:18.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-20T03:02:51.707" Score="2" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;My front brake (cantilever brakes) does not make contact with the rim until I pull the brake levers almost all the way in, leaving me with very little space to apply extra force. That means the brakes are not working very well to slow down or stop the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what I need to adjust -- whether it's the transverse cable or the link wire. Moreover, when I try to tighten the transverse cable, the brakes work well for a few times (or &quot;pumps&quot;) but then suddenly revert to their original functionality. I'm not sure what's going on (if the brake cables are coming lose for example under the tension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4560" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T01:06:47.873" Title="How to improve front brake functionality?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10428" CreationDate="2012-07-20T03:34:51.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the cable's slipping after you adjust it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precisely how you adjust the cable depends on the brake design, and normally you would not shorten the straddle cable, since it needs to be a certain length for optimum operation.  However, with many newer bikes the main cable makes up half the straddle cable, with a spacer to maintain the proper straddle length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html&quot;&gt;article on cantilever adjustment&lt;/a&gt;, though it's a little short on actual adjustment operations.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service&quot;&gt;Park Tool's article&lt;/a&gt;, on the other hand, almost goes into too much detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T03:34:51.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10410" CreationDate="2012-07-20T03:41:58.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressure sensor / altimeter. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meas-spec.com/pressure-sensors/board-level-pressure-sensors/altimeter-pressure-sensor-modules.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.meas-spec.com/pressure-sensors/board-level-pressure-sensors/altimeter-pressure-sensor-modules.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The best one of their sensors can detect a change in elevation of 10 cm. I2C interface.&#xA;These are really great. Bosch makes a sensor with similar quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Of course the most interesting and most difficult to measure quantity is the power. There is a system that measures the tension of the chain by its resonance frequency, times the speed of the chain that gives the power.&#xA;You could try a guitar pickup to measure the vibrations of the chain and the links as they pass by and get both speed and tension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compass sensor, 3 axes, cheap and easy to hook up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heart rate, easy to measure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Respiration frequency? Don't know if this is useful, but fun to measure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To be really fancy, put strain gages on the frame. Extra points for putting them on the spokes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature, just because it is easy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oxygen saturation, don't know if there are cheap sensors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accelerometer, cheap and simple, too. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4441" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T03:41:58.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2012-07-20T15:41:42.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire manufacturers recommend to change the rim tape each time you change a tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic rim tapes actually get damaged after a few thousands km under high pressure and I hate rim cloth that get soaked with water under rain. I have been using veloplugs for a year now and I am very happy with this system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy to install, light weight, and above all very safe. Also makes tire mounting much easier. Just remember to put a few spares in your saddle bag when you ride, in case you loose one when fixing a flat on the side of the road&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4585" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T22:52:54.840" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T22:52:54.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2012-07-21T05:16:10.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of asking for e.g. a $50 discount on a bike ask for accessories worth $50. This way the shop will not loose $50 of their profit but rather 50 &lt;em&gt;minus&lt;/em&gt; their margin on accessories (typically high for low priced items). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4587" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T05:16:10.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-21T06:13:24.287" Score="7" ViewCount="14892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 6ft 4&quot; (1.8m) and 22st (139kg).  I do a fair bit of cycling, mainly spinning and mountain biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to get into road riding so I'm looking to buy a road bike. I want to spend between £500-£750. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had some issues in the past with pedal shafts rounding off the crank, especially when riding hard standing up on my mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What things should I look for when choosing a road bike? Obviously a big frame, but what are the sizes? Also, a strong crank; are there any makes that are stronger than most?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4589" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T18:16:31.263" Title="What should a big guy look for when buying a road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10434" CreationDate="2012-07-21T11:26:16.697" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you're a big guy, so a lightweight racing bike is probably not for you.  You might want to look at touring bikes, and, in particular, some of the Surly models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the crank problem you probably should have a splined vs square crank, and you need to regularly check the torque on the crank bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-07-22T00:18:21.090" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T00:18:21.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10434" CreationDate="2012-07-21T11:28:09.533" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 59-61cm frame, most likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would recommend you up your budget a fair bit, unless you are willing to replace the bike in a relatively short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight of a frame should not be a major consideration for you, but the lateral and vertical flex should be a primary factor. Those things will affect your direct power output.  Something like a Storck Scenero would be a good choice, because they manufacturer each frame size using proportionally larger components, which means that their frames have the same excellent ride quality from a 49cm frame to a 63cm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, you need to focus on buying something with a strong set of wheels, or learn to ride smoothly. Or both. A set of Xentis wheels would be my choice, although that is far outside your budget, because they have the highest rated rider weight limit of any wheel I am aware of. (120Kg) While that is lower than your weight, it is better than the Mavic (100Kg) or Zipp (85Kg-100Kg) weight limits. And as always, there is a good safety margin built in to those limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. Feel free to ask if you come up with any other questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T11:28:09.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1582" CreationDate="2012-07-21T12:53:10.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Vancouver, BC they have several ways of dealing with this.  At heavily trafficked intersections they have dual parallel crosswalks: one for bikes and one for peds. Each has its own signal control button to stop traffic and their own crossing signal, although they seemed to operate in concert.  They also do not allow motorized traffic to turn right on a red light across a bicycle path, although it is normally allowed.  Where bikes and peds share a crosswalk path and bikes are allowed to ride across, there are &quot;elephant feet,&quot; large square painted rectangles which form a parallel path adjacent to the crosswalk lines.  Otherwise, there are signs telling bicyclists to behave like a pedestrian in crossing the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4590" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T12:53:10.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-21T18:27:13.600" Score="0" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/327/how-to-prevent-cramping&quot;&gt;How to Prevent Cramping&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get cramps in my feet and calves while riding.  I was told eating bananas and taking electrolyte pills would help.  Once the cramping starts is it too late?  How long does the benefit of the bananas or pills to make an impact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4593" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T19:25:36.880" Title="Cramping While Riding" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-07-22T00:07:53.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10439" CreationDate="2012-07-21T19:25:36.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you are already cramping, it's generally too late for electrolytes to have a great direct effect. Hydration on the other hand is often a cause of cramps and taking on fluids can provide fairly quick (couple of minutes) relief...and for some (myself include) absorbing fluids is faster if there are some electrolytes in the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good article on cramping at Livestrong: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/413398-bananas-for-leg-cramps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.livestrong.com/article/413398-bananas-for-leg-cramps/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It suggests in a non-direct fashion that maintaining a diet with the right minerals will help prevent cramps in the first place...and this is where the banana comes in. Eat it before the cramps for best effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T19:25:36.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10354" CreationDate="2012-07-21T20:14:34.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the hanger is still attached, there are two possible attachment options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The most common - a chainring bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two smaller bolts, often counter-sunk (I can't recall exactly, but it's not important)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With either option, it's still a standard part, something your LBS should have on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the bike was purchased recently, the bolt that fell off the hanger is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; caused due to an issue you caused, and should be covered for free (at the very least the labor should be covered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4594" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T20:14:34.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10434" CreationDate="2012-07-21T20:31:34.587" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Here's what I'd recommend&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have suggested, you should avoid a stock bicycle. They're designed with the top of the bell curve in mind, and you're simply half-again as much man as the normal one. For more information on any of these topics, consult a bike shop!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crankset&lt;/strong&gt;: Since you asked specifically about them, I'll start here. The stiffest, strongest crank you can get is an a two-piece crank with an external bottom bracket. There are different types, made by different manufacturers, but they've been around long enough that they should all be durable (and as a bonus, better bearings!).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sizing&lt;/strong&gt;: The right size bicycle for you is determined by your leg length. A good shop should be able to measure you for the proper frame size. Along with stand over height, you should be measured for reach (which is a combination of your torso length and arm length), and handlebar width (measurement across shoulders, I believe).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame&lt;/strong&gt;: Material doesn't particularly matter here. In the past, carbon has had durability issues, but that's largely been solved (so long as you select a quality manufacturer). However, with your budget in mind, steel or aluminum is a better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheels&lt;/strong&gt;: This is what you should be focusing a &lt;strong&gt;huge&lt;/strong&gt; portion of your budget on. Quality, hand-spun, 3-cross wheels will last much, much longer than any pre-built wheelset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires (tyres!)&lt;/strong&gt;: Be sure to select a wider tire than the old standby 700x23. I would even consider a 28, honestly. It's a small sacrifice in acceleration, but in terms of long-term comfort and cruising speed, a wider tire will be better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other components&lt;/strong&gt;: What fits within the remainder of your budget. Road bike parts are super pricey, especially those fancy integrated shift/brake levers. Consider bar-end or even downtube shifters if you can handle it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4594" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T20:31:34.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10445" CreationDate="2012-07-21T21:52:39.010" Score="2" ViewCount="3892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Civia Bryant which I ride around the city and to work everyday.  Yesterday, while walking the bike into my apartment building, I noticed that there were noises coming from the front wheel.  Later, when I was able to take a closer look, I noticed that the disc brake rotor was making contact with the brakes and that the tire was touching the fender too.  I removed the wheel and tried to put it back while making sure it was aligned properly, but as soon as I tighten the skewer, it becomes misaligned again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't taken any spills nor has the bike gone through something that could explain this.  I do ride in NYC streets everyday and when in traffic cannot avoid all potholes, but that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea about what the cause of this could be and how to go about fixing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in Advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should point out that I changed the quick-release skewer that came with the bike for a locking skewer.  It is when tightening the hex nut for this skewer that the wheel becomes misaligned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4595" LastEditorUserId="4595" LastEditDate="2012-07-21T22:12:36.597" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T23:27:22.053" Title="Front wheel inexplicably misaligned" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10444" CreationDate="2012-07-21T23:27:22.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have overtightened things...you can do this with a quick-release, but easier when you apply a tool to the process. This can cause the alignment to go a bit wonky. This is actually the less likely thing...I mention it first as folks have a tendency to over-tighten things when they take them off and on a time or two and I'm about to ask you to remove the wheel!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial guess is that you didn't get the axle seated correctly in the fork. This could be caused by a bit of gravel or dirt or just the angle the bike was leaning. Take off the wheel and make sure everything is clean. While you are there, look for any damage to the end of the fork. If one side is a little twisted, you may have a fork issue but from your narrative you haven't had any crashes so probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once satisfied all is clean and undamaged, put the wheel on and &quot;jiggle&quot; it to make sure it seats well. Hand tighten the skewer and see if the wheel turns smoothly. You may have already bent your disc from earlier, so keep that in mind...if you are mechanically inclined and your disc is bent, you can straighten with a crescent wrench tightened so it &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; slides over the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tighten the skewer a bit more, make sure all is good, then tighten down...ideally with a torque wrench but realistically a &quot;firm without cranking it down&quot; tighten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it still gives you trouble, stop by your LBS and ask them to help you troubleshoot it. Many will give you a hand for free (or a couple bucks). Bigger stores less so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-21T23:27:22.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-07-22T00:05:23.327" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Squirt some water on it from your water bottle. Tried and tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4598" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T00:05:23.327" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2184" CreationDate="2012-07-22T00:31:04.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just heated the crank arm up with a butane torch, grabbed an aluminium drift, laid by bike across my knees, and gave the boss where the inner chainring bolts on a firm blow with a hammer using the drift. Came off real easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4599" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T00:31:04.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="63" CreationDate="2012-07-22T07:06:27.933" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this same problem but i went to a bike shop and explained the situation, the bike mechanic gave me a serrated washer to be placed between the skewer and the bike frame on the cassette side. This solved the issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4600" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T07:06:27.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2516" CreationDate="2012-07-23T00:52:14.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of a friend. etc... - a keen Mountain biker and senior Emergency Department Doctor advised me (very strongly - as in if you leave them on your bike, you might as well not wear a helmet) to remove them from my bike- he had treated several mountain bikers with internal injuries clearly caused by Bar ends - including one poor fella who has life threatening Liver damage, and one with Spleen injuries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said problem was usually going 1/2 over the handle bars (i.e. not clearing the bike like I usually do), and landing on top of the bar end when it's sticking up, or a group coming a cropper. Lay you bike on the ground and have a look at the position of the bar end, and image your soft abdomen area coming down on it from a height or at speed. For some reason he could not explain, he did not see many injuries where the rider landed on the end of the handle bars themselves when there is no bar end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T00:52:14.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10428" CreationDate="2012-07-23T01:06:47.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what sort of transverse setup you have.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the one-piece where the brake cable goes through the block then out one side (while the other side is held with a fixed spacer cable), then your slippage point will be where the cable is attached to the end of the lever arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you have the two-piece design (brake cable terminates at the block and a separate transverse cable connects the lever arms), then you need to look at how the cable attaches to both lever arms AND the transverse block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it tightens up to start with and then slips, look at all the tightening bolts.  It's possible there is a stripped one in there which tightens up to a point but fails under stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4493" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T01:06:47.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="356" CreationDate="2012-07-23T06:53:08.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;silly thing to say probably, but i had a friend who stripped forks with no manual. he positioned his phone and FILMED the strip down so he would know how to rebuild it ! &#xA;if you have the tools and the confidence go for it. you may find it a breeze !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4604" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T06:53:08.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2012-07-23T09:34:18.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a funny debate really....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vast majority of road riders have far bigger wallets than ability. I ride a 3 year old Genesis Vapour, it's not heavy by any means, but it's also not light compared with modern road bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am fit, I ride a daily 30mile commute, I can climb well enough and regularly beat roadies with wallets far outweighing ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get fit and you will get fast whatever you are riding.... Just to put it in context, I did a charity ride at the weekend and there was a guy in his early 20's on a Brampton (fold up bike) beating me up most hills and me catching him again on the flats and downs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4605" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T09:34:18.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2516" CreationDate="2012-07-23T17:21:49.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hybrid bike has them. The feeling of cool metal is nice on hot days, and they are just long enough I can lean on them for a lower position at higher speeds on road - sort of poor mans forearm rests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do become dangerous on narrow trails, when they may grab a nearby branch/tree, possibly slamming it into your hand or causing rapid halt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/Modules/BUILTIN/getObject.asp?MenuId=MTkzNg&amp;amp;ObjTypeCode=FILE&amp;amp;type=FILE&amp;amp;id=34033&amp;amp;LangId=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UCI regulations&lt;/a&gt;, usage is allowed only for certain competitions by rule 1.3.023:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For road time trials and the following track events: individual and team pursuit, kilometre and&#xA;  500 m a fixed extension may be added to the steering system; in this instance, only a position&#xA;  where the forearm is in the horizontal plane is permitted. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3839" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T17:21:49.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7507" CreationDate="2012-07-23T20:41:04.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you wish to do it yourself, go ahead but at the cost of how much the proper tools cost, how often you will be doing this yourself and how much time you have should also be a consideration. I have bought the equipment to do it myself several times over the years [lost them all of course!] and have done it myself but would rather have someone who does it everyday and have the tools to do it properly and save me time as well. I would say $50 is well worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4498" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T20:41:04.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10367" CreationDate="2012-07-23T21:19:17.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a 700c wheel go faster?  Hmmmm...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kinda hard to give a definative answer to this one as you have lots of variables to contend with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that both wheels being tested have the same mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well a 700c wheel typically refers to a race wheel which is going to have a very high inflation rating and a thin profile.  Both of these items allow for a very small contact point on the road (foot print).  The smaller the foot print you have the less road resistance you will have and the easier it is to move the wheel along the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's easier to move the wheel along the road you can get a higher effiency power transfer to the wheel.  If you have a higher efficiency then you waste less energy moving forward and so have more energy to go faster longer.  So based on the sole assumption that the previous wheel has a larger foot print than the 700c wheel then I'd say that the 700c wheel does in fact have a greater likelyhood of traveling faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's look at both wheels from the stand piont of 'moment of inertia' (MoI).  That's the amount of force (torque) it takes to increase or decrease the rotational velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both wheels have a mass of 1kg and the 700c wheel has a radius of 311mm then the moment of inertia is calculated to be about 9.6kg m^2.  If we compare that to a BMX wheel having the same mass and foot print (ya right, a skinny BMX tire?! Let's just go with it for the example) and a radius of 203mm we get 4.1kg m^2 needed to change it's velocity.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/ihoop.html#ihoop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Moment of Interia Calculator&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically the BMX wheel should be able to go way faster because it needs much less energy to increase it's angular velocity.  The problem is what enables it to be able to accelerate so quickly is a double edged sword because it also allows it to be deccelerated just as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because we don't ride in vacuums, we need to contend with wind resistance as well as road resistance.  So while it takes less than half the energy to get that BMX wheel up to speed, the counter effects of the wind and road resistance are acting at more than twice that of the 700c wheel at slowing you down.  Also to remember is that the force from air drag is calculated from the square of your velocity so the faster you go the drag you need to overcome grows exponential. If you were thinking that you'll just go fatser to make up for the difference, think again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a trade off.  Do you want to be able to sprint up to speed really quick but have that speed bled off just as quick? Or do you want to be able to maintain your speed over longer distances, taking more effort to get up to speed, but be able to maintain it with less effort over the long haul?  Like the tortoise and the hare... if the race is short then the hare wins everytime.  Make it longer and the hare burns himself out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to look at the effects of how the distribution of mass affects the torque on a wheel then check out the claculator for inertia of a thick walled hoop.  You'll see how moving the mass closer to the hub affects the MoI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T21:19:17.687" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2012-07-24T00:01:26.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time...going to the same store just to browse and buying little things over the year.  That's the best way to get deals.  They see you on a regular basis, know you're serious about cycling and will be more willing to cut you a deal when you start asking about this year's models because they know you are not just a one shot sale.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your LBS survives on the lifetime customer.  They make more money on the add-on sale than on the single bike sale.  If you're a regular then they'll be giving you a price of cost plus 20% so they don't loose but then they'll start giving you a 10%-20% off on your on going items like helmets, shoes, clothes, tubes etc.  Those Items are usually at a 100% mark-up and that's how they keep the lights on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They will also start doing little things for you at no cost like swapping out a flat tube for you if it's slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember it's a relationship you are making and that's how you get deals.  You agree to keep coming back and buy your tubes, grease, brake pads and they agree to not over charge you and give you good advice on future purchases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T00:01:26.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10512" CreationDate="2012-07-24T01:35:08.463" Score="19" ViewCount="6023" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm riding with my friend, I notice that he rolls down hills significantly faster than me. We can be riding next to each other, both in a similar aerodynamic position, but if we both coast he pulls away from me surprisingly quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a fair bit taller than him and probably weigh a little more (but only a few kilograms/pounds). Our bikes are similar. We both tuck into a similar position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from our size/shape, the main difference I can see are wheels. I have Campagnolo Khamsin and he has a set of American Classics that he purchased after he got the bike and spent about $800 on. They have a much deeper V than my wheels. My main theory is that the wheels are what's making the difference, possibly with aerodynamics and also better rolling resistance in the hubs, but I'm not sure how to confirm or deny this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T16:51:41.347" Title="What are the most significant factors affecting downhill cruising speed?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-24T02:17:37.550" Score="2" ViewCount="8990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see lots of questions on gears slipping but not sure it's the same as what I have.  Out of 21 gears I only have problems with 4 (middle sprocket (2) on left shifter gears (4-7) on right shifter). Since it's only 4 gears I didn't feel comfortable adjusting anything since it may impact what's working now. I'm not sure what to look for but the sprocket, gear and chain wear look okay. I just bought the bike a couple weeks ago (used) and it shifted good through all gears. Bike is 2011 GT Aggressor that looks like new so it's not one of the 'mart' bikes.  Any ideas?  Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4609" LastEditorUserId="4609" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T02:39:01.597" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T17:08:02.920" Title="Bicycle slipping gears on middle sprocket gears 4-7" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10462" CreationDate="2012-07-24T03:49:26.580" Score="5" ViewCount="3449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to upgrade my wheels but beyond the price, I'm not sure how to compare different options or even to tell if a given wheel is an upgrade or a downgrade from my current wheelset. I'm looking for an improvement in performance in aerodynamics, weight and reduced rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a huge array of wheels available. Ranging in price from $100 to many thousands. What do you look for in a quality set of wheels? I assume total weight is one of the most important factors, but I also imagine that low resistance in the hubs would be at least as important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have many questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's the most important part of the wheel? Hub or rim? Or both?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you evaluate or compare different hubs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you evaluate or compare different rims/spoke combinations?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there other factors I've missed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: What I want to establish is that if I'm comparing two wheels in a showroom or looking at their technical specs, how do I tell which is better and whether they're good value for money or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T23:53:06.337" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T06:52:34.677" Title="How do you evaluate a wheelset?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10461" CreationDate="2012-07-24T04:05:09.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an improvement in performance in aerodynamics, weight and reduced rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is what you want then you can pay for light hubs with high quality bearings that give you low rolling resistance.  The rest of rolling resistance is due to your choice of tire and tire pressure.  Be aware that the claims that &lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/18725/how-much-effect-does-the-mass-of-a-bicycle-tire-have-on-acceleration&quot;&gt;weight on a wheel is more important than weight on the frame&lt;/a&gt; is based on an evaluation of weight at the perimeter of the wheel, not at the center so the weight savings of the hub may not be as critical as weight savings elsewhere in the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aerodynamics-wise, low spoke count wheels are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zipp.com/_media/pdfs/technology/spokecount.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;better&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fewer spokes means decreased stiffness and spoke life, while additional spoke &#xA;  counts can lead to higher power requirements, or overly stiff wheels which are punishing on rough roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low spoke count wheels are not necessarily lighter though -- I believe most low spoke count wheels use heavier gauge spokes and nipples to compensate for the higher tension -- the bigger nipple spreads the force over a larger area of the rim to prevent light rims from buckling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Leaving the rest here so this answer is useful to other readers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends what you're going to use the wheel for, but I'm answering assuming you want a reasonably light durable wheel that you can fix yourself if you have a breakdown, and that you don't have a van pacing you with spare wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's the most important part of the wheel? Hub or rim? Or both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spokes.  A low spoke count wheel on a high quality rim and hubs is still a crap wheel.  Low spoke count wheels require each spoke to be that much more highly tensioned.  Low spoke count wheels are made by machines that push on the whole perimeter of the wheel as they tension the spokes.  No human can do that on the side of the road, so this means that if one spoke breaks, you have no real chance to retrue the wheel by tightening or loosening other spokes to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High spoke count wheels (36 spokes for example) may have slightly higher drag, but there's so many spokes, that you can actually use that little spoke wrench that comes with your multi-tool to do road-side repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do you evaluate or compare different hubs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at reviews.  You basically have to relace the wheel every time you go through a hub, so I prefer long-life over lighter-weight, buy YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phil wood is my personal favorite, but again, probably not ideal for racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do you evaluate or compare different rims/spoke combinations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jobst Brandt's book &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.avocet.com/wheelbook/wheelbook.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;The Bicycle Wheel&quot;&lt;/a&gt; explains spoke lacing patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Major rim choices include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;offset vs centered spoke holes.  You can get less dish (see below) sometimes by using offset spoke holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;depth of rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thickness of material.  Thinner is lighter, but if you're going to do a lot of wet weather riding and you have rim-brakes, then grit gets into the brake pad which will wear down thinner rims more quickly than thicker rims.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;material.  Some people actually sell &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbonrimssale.com/carbon-road-bike-rims-clincher-700c-50mm.html/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carbon Fiber rims&lt;/a&gt; but if you're using rim brakes then you want the rim to be made of a heat-conductive material so it sheds heat well.  Carbon fiber does not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;type of tire.  Clinchers vs tubular.  If you don't know what this means, then you're using clincher tires which have a metal (or kevlar) bead, a stiff wire that runs around the inner perimeter of the tire and presses it against the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there other factors I've missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dish.  If you have a derailleur on one side of the wheel, you can't quite center the wheel over the hub so you have to use longer spokes on one side.  This means you can't get both sets of spokes up to the same tension you could if you didn't dish the wheel resulting in a slightly weaker wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:18.040" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T04:39:07.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10468" CreationDate="2012-07-24T04:28:53.140" Score="3" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a newer road bike I use for my longer, faster weekend rides (700c tires) and a 70's Sekai that I use to ride with my son, and to run errands (27&quot; tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no problem changing tires/tubes on the 700c set, but I always have a terrible time changing the 27&quot; set. I usually end up pinch-flatting the tube while trying to wrestle the tire/tube onto the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong? Does anyone else have this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4610" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T08:02:24.337" Title="27 inch tires significantly harder to change than 700c" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10367" CreationDate="2012-07-24T05:44:46.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are on a flat track with thin, hard tires and your bikes are geared to be equally efficient to pedal at low and high speeds, which wheel will make you faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recumbents that do really well on human powered vehicle speed tests tend to have smaller wheels so that they can get as low to the ground as possible and keep a small wind-profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not because the wheel is smaller though.  One thing to keep in mind is that smaller diameter wheels tend to be made wider so that you get a decent size contact patch to corner and brake.  This may offset any aerodynamic gain.  Aerodynamic gain comes from making the whole bike shorter (as in a recumbent).  If you have to make the wheel thicker than the frame, then you're actually adding to the wind-profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main arguments for large wheels off the track are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Smaller wheels do worse on uneven road surfaces -- imagine a wheel that hits a pothole that is deeper than the radius of the wheel -- you're going to endo.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Smaller wheels have a lower volume of air, so don't behave as well as shock absorbers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T05:44:46.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10460" CreationDate="2012-07-24T05:50:35.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds of cable stretch. For new bikes I like to completely retune the rear dérailleur after a couple of weeks of riding. For used bikes having this problem I also check that the hanger is straight. Checking the hanger requires a special tool, so a trip to your LBS is probably in order if tightening up the cable doesn't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some folks will tell you to just turn the barrel adjuster for a stretched cable...my $0.02 is that the barrel adjuster is to allow you to make adjustments if needed during a ride. If you &quot;use up&quot; all the turns the adjuster has before your ride...well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting for tension is pretty easy. Shift all the way to the smallest/hardest gear. Look at how the cable is routed...you aren't going to take it off, but just in case it gets loose, you want to route it back the proper way. Now loosen the hex bolt holding the cable. It should be a 5mm hex, just a bit should do it. Pull the cable tight. You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; use a pair of needle nose pliers to help, I prefer to use fingers. If I'm not getting it tight enough, you can push the derailleur in a gear (or two depending). Tighten bolt onto cable. If you pushed on the derailleur for extra tension, pedal a bit to make sure it drops back to smallest cog (if not, loosen cable and try again...this time pushing derailleur less or not at all). Make sure it shifts all the way through...you shouldn't have to change stops, but check them. Shift to center of cog and adjust (you can use barrel adjuster here) chain so it's centered on cog (moving chain is easiest to see). Shift up and down several times, everything should be smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cable tension doesn't work...it may be a bent hanger...stop by your LBS. The other possibilities are worn chain and/or worn cassette. Check the chain with a gauge. Cassette your LBS will be able to tell you...I'm guessing it's not this because it shifted good when you first got it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T05:50:35.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10463" CreationDate="2012-07-24T08:42:42.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without looking at your wheel, I will have to guess that it isn't the diameter of the wheel that is causing the problem but rather the rims. Some rims come with deeper channels than others. The 2 example cross sections bellow will show you the difference I am referring to. The rim on the left has a deep channel where the tire bead can sit as you remove the tire from the opposite side of the rim. The rim on the right has a shallow channel where squeezing the tire to the middle does little to help you as you remove the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose for the differences is that the more shallow channel gives you a stronger rim at the expense of making it harder to remove the tire. The deeper channel allows you easier tire removal but compromises the strength of the rim. My front rim is like the one on the right and it is a TOTAL pain in the butt to change tires!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9LPli.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Deep and Shallow Channels&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What I use are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/MFXUA2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Parks Tools Tire Lever&lt;/a&gt;, it takes a lot of abuse but is really gentle on the tires/tubes. It will still pinch if you are not careful. Deflate the tire COMPLETELY, slide everything to one side and lift only one bead of the tire over the lip and hook the lever to a spoke. Keep doing this inch by inch using a new lever each time (there are 3) until that one side of the tire comes off, then pull out only the tube. Getting it back on is about the same, but I use dish soap to lube the tire and rims, helps a lot!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastEditorUserId="3949" LastEditDate="2012-07-25T08:02:24.337" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T08:02:24.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10475" CreationDate="2012-07-24T09:21:29.377" Score="9" ViewCount="40990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a bike for my commute - 6 miles a day. The commute itself is all on roads, so naturally I'm looking at road bikes. My main worry is that if I invest in such a bike I won't be able to ride off-road at all, for example down a towpath (Towpaths can have very rough surfaces). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I be better off investing in a light hybrid bike (with thicker tyres) over the road bike, given that I might want to go off-road some of the time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2526" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T20:00:00.593" Title="Are road tyres suitable for any off-road riding at all?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10469" CreationDate="2012-07-24T11:11:49.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road bike tires aren't suitable for riding off road. Anything rougher that stonedust screenings or light gravel will give you problems, as they aren't designed to be able to control a bike on those types of surfaces. Generally speaking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they will sink into loose materials far more easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will be more likely to get flats, but from pinching and from punctures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are more fragile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go with the hybrid. You can ride a hybrid over some pretty rough terrain. You might also consider a cyclocross bike, which is basically a road bike designed for rough terrain. They're more expensive though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T11:11:49.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10469" CreationDate="2012-07-24T11:28:33.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road tyres are suitable for some off-road riding. And it greatly depends on your expertise. You might want to read this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/roading-your-road-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycling Magazine&lt;/a&gt; article. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the tyres on the road bike can solve your problem if the surface is too rough for slicks. Semi slicks might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a friend who has a road bike, try riding it on your commute to see how it handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4612" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T11:28:33.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10469" CreationDate="2012-07-24T12:37:58.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My only bike is a road bike which has 25mm tyres(Schwalbe Marathon at the back and Armadillo front). I expect that it would be fine on a tow path or most prepared tracks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used mine a few weeks ago on a flat and rather muddy offroad track through the woods and fields. I was towing my son on a tag along. I got round, but I did have to get off and push through the really deep mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that the narrow tyres sink further into the mud. The other issue that you may find a problem is that the mudguards will collect the mud more than a mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T12:37:58.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10547" CreationDate="2012-07-24T13:02:26.973" Score="0" ViewCount="2100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that smartphones gps have problems with their accuracy, especially with altitude. But I heard that the Galaxy Nexus has a barometer that theoretically is used to improve the accuracy of the gps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone has used it to track any route? It can compare (in accuracy) to a mid-range bicycle gps device?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4572" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:06:03.247" Title="any gps improvement on smartphones with barometer?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10485" CreationDate="2012-07-24T13:18:11.510" Score="5" ViewCount="675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fold and unfold my Dahon Speed D7 at least four times a day, and each time its seatpost is being pulled up or pushed down the frame tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is that the seatpost becomes dirty really quickly even on a dry weather. I suspect the aluminium it's made of is softer than the frame alloy and every time I move it up or down the tube it's being filed down a bit, and so the dirt is actually very fine chips of the seatpost itself. However, it hasn't been changing for a couple of years (shouldn't it already be polished enough by this moment?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell for sure from the dirt look itself though. Is it possible for the road dust to get that quickly through the opening of the frame below? Would oiling the seatpost help or it would only make it worse (dry dirt is much more preferable to deal with than when mixed with oil)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it makes sense to replace the seatpost with a steel one (not sure if they exist as a specific diameter and length are required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Must be a common problem for folding bike owners, how do you cope with that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B67dy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7jw4P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A40RF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3125" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2012-07-25T10:27:31.523" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T05:09:23.247" Title="Seatpost of a folding bike is always dirty, filed down by frame?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10469" CreationDate="2012-07-24T13:31:43.673" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a general purpose bike for commuting and towpath riding, you probably want to avoid a standard road bike, they are very specialized and have very small tire clearance.  Typically supporting tires no larger than 28mm and often lack mud guards or rack/pannier mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, touring bikes or steel cyclocross bikes (if they have rack and fender mounts), tend to be great choices for those purposes.  Both will often have clearance for tires up to 35mm or larger which you can use for off road riding and have a more traditional road geometry versus the more upright hybrid geometry.  However, if you prefer the more upright stance and flat bars, then a hybrid may be more well suited to you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would make sure that whatever bike you get does have rack/fender mounts if it's going to be used as a commuter.  You never know if you'll want to start using a rack and panniers to carry your gear off your back or fenders to keep you drier in the rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get knobby tires for any of these bikes, but I would stick with high quality, puncture resistant road tires wider than 28mm.  Even slick tires that are 35mm should be fine for towpath riding, I wouldn't take them on singletrack though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T13:31:43.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10461" CreationDate="2012-07-24T14:49:37.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Mike's answer is very helpful, but I'd add that there are lots of good wheel sets (prebuilt) out there and a lot of them are great for different purposes. You should factor into your decision the type of riding you do and how a new wheel set my aid you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do a lot of climbing, I'd say look for weight savings. Deep profile rims won't do you much good. Low profile alloy rims will certainly be a better option&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have mostly flatland and you ride fast, you'll maybe want something more deep profile to aid with aero advantage. If there is a lot of crosswind this can be a factor as well. Deep profile rims and crosswinds can be tricky with handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you race? tour? ride for fun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;alloy vs. carbon is also a decision. Carbon is certainly fancier and will impress your friends more, but there are plenty of great alloy wheel sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always go the custom built route and this can get you a great wheel set for a lot less than the popular brand names with comparable or better quality. It's important that you find a builder that you trust and discuss your style of riding with them so they can steer you in the right direction. They will factor in style, rider weight, budget, etc into their recommendations...or at least a good builder will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T14:49:37.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10480" CreationDate="2012-07-24T15:50:43.610" Score="2" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pulled an old touring bike (Ross circa 1980) out of the basement and bought new tires for it. Both the old tires and the new tires are labeled 27 x 1 1/4, but the new tires are larger than the old. They fit into the rim fine, the inner diameter of the tire is correct. But the new outer diameter is greater, and the new tire rubs against the fenders and cannot spin freely. The new tire also seems wider than the old but I didn't measure and am not certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, since the inner diameter of the new tire is correct with the 27, would I be able switch to a smaller size to accommodate the fender, or am I stuck with what I have? The new tires I bought are cheapo Bontrager touring tires ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/08860&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bontrager.com/model/08860&lt;/a&gt; ) - if I bought another brand or style in the same size, would that help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2050" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T12:22:18.377" Title="Replacing 30 yr old tires; the new ones don't fit" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10463" CreationDate="2012-07-24T16:25:43.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often find a huge deal of variation due to the tire itself.  I've had the same size tires from different brands behave very differently. Sometimes they will become easier to remove and re-install after they are worn in a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I have to use tire levers to lift the last bit of tire over the lip of the rim, this isn't usually recommended, but sometimes neccesary for extra stubborn tires. If you do resort to this method, then be careful not to pinch the intertube with the levers and be sure that it's not pinched between the rim and the tire when you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T16:25:43.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-24T16:28:55.067" Score="4" ViewCount="5768" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order for a floor pump to work correctly, something has to make sure that when we pull the pump piston up, the air from the tire does not escape back into the pump. For that there should be a one-way valve between the tube and the pump interior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions is: does the pump itself have its own integrated one-way valve (installed in the pump head, in the pump body or in the hose)? Or does it rely on the existing tube valve (Presta in my case) to keep the air trapped inside the tube between pump strokes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, when I use a floor pump to inflate my bicycle tires, is the Presta valve on the wheel supposed to open and close with each stroke of the pump? Or is it permitted to stay open at all times (pressed down by pump head), while an integrated valve in the pump provides the one-way functionality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T15:34:32.443" Title="Does a typical floor pump have an integrated one-way valve?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10477" CreationDate="2012-07-24T16:36:15.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find 27x1 1/8 tires pretty readily. You may want to try that smaller size. The height of the tires can vary a bit by the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T16:36:15.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10479" CreationDate="2012-07-24T17:09:05.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I press my pump head onto the (presta) valve, I can feel &amp;amp; hear air escaping until I twist the hose/head junction to lock it on. When I unlock and remove the head, some more air escapes until it is fully clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, this indicates that the pump head holds the presta valve open, and the pump head must have its own return valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This pump head is double-sided though (one side presta, one schrader), so it's possible that a dedicated presta head would be able to rely on the tube's own valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T17:09:05.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10479" CreationDate="2012-07-24T18:23:25.623" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a valve in the floor pump, yes, so it is supposed to press in the presta valve the whole time it is attached to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too have seen the problem you refer to in the comment on @Useless's answer - diagnosis has always shown this to be down to the presta valve either catching on the side of the pump fitting or just being stiff and refusing to budge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple solution I use is to give it a quick press with my finger before using the pump, just to ensure it moves cleanly and isn't stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T18:23:25.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10469" CreationDate="2012-07-24T18:50:22.797" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  If you put slightly wider tires then you can do packed earth or even gravel without too much trouble.  Even 25 or 28mm tires give a lot of advantage over 18 or 23mm wide tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mikesamuel.com/alps2005/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Col du Parpaillon&lt;/a&gt; on 25's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfvF0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my trip report:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hostel owner had said Col du Parpaillon was closed because of ice in the unlit tunnel at the top but we decided to try anyway. It's only about 22 km to the top but the top 10 km is unpaved and steep in places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't be very technical on a mountain bike, but everything is more technical on a loaded road bike. We only had to walk twice -- once trying to sneak up on a groundhog like rodent, and once over water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenery was gorgeous. The path up wound past wildflowers and waterfalls backed by dramatic views of the mountains. The climb itself was cool -- it was overcast most of the day, but occasionally a few rays of sun would peak through to play across the mountainsides, and we saw no one else on the ascent, except for two German bikers about 2 km from the top. There were no houses on the ascent except for 3 hikers' shacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tunnel was closed at the top, and was completely unlit, but I had a battery powered headlamp, so we decided to walk it. The water was a few inches deep in places, and there was ice in places, but we slogged through to find the German motorcyclists waiting for us on the other side. I think they may have taken bets on us, because they waved and left as soon as we exited the tunnel, and we saw them waiting again at the chapel at the bottom where the paved road starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put on my arm and leg warmers for padding in case I got thrown from the bike, and then started descending. The first 5 km was a white knuckled descent over rough gravelly road punctuated with ruts and rocks. I heard thunder on the way down, and so sped up a little but not too much since I saw a few patches of fresh rockfall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be careful of ruts on descents -- the narrower the tire, the more easily a rut will swallow a tire and prevent you from turning.  When ascending on narrow tires over gravel and uneven ground, gear down and pedal continuously so that you always have a low level of power to move your front wheel.  When there are sandy patches, plan turns so that you can do as much of your turning on packed earth, keep turns over sand as shallow as possible, and if the sand is deep avoid turning altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T18:50:22.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10479" CreationDate="2012-07-24T19:21:33.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The valve on the tube (Schrader or Presta) will stay open the whole time your pump head is attached. It knows nothing about the pump state. The valve is kept closed in normal operation by the pressure inside the tube + the threaded collar pushing it up (Presta) or a spring (Schrader).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pump is where the one-way valve lives. Air is only supposed to leave the pump and never go in (via the connection to the tube, air gets in elsewhere). Air is supposed to go in and leave your tube whenever you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4574" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T19:21:33.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10474" CreationDate="2012-07-24T23:45:12.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an old inner tube available cut a section slightly longer than your seatpost. Slip it over the seat post and zip tie it in place. It will act as a somewhat water/dirt resistant boot, similar to what mountain bikes have on the front shocks. You may have to look for a fairly wide tube to fit over the post. Check with your local shop to see if they have any unrepairable ones left laying around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T23:45:12.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="720" CreationDate="2012-07-25T02:22:54.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Happens on occasions on my good old 16 speed Shimano 105. Typically not enough cable tension (tension up at a barrel or at the anchor). Also dirt between the cable and a sheeve (inject oil into the sheeve or replace cables).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4615" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T02:22:54.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4658" CreationDate="2012-07-25T02:48:06.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy a timed automatic garage door closer. Protectrix or Magicloser.  Ridiculously simple to install in 5-10 minutes. $60-80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May still want to lock it down but solves the problem of carelessness in closing the door&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4616" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T02:48:06.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4830" CreationDate="2012-07-25T16:51:49.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the kind of bearing, but I can offer a little hint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy ones are the open bearing, the kind that comprises a race, a cone, bearing balls (or rollers) and (optional in many cases) a ball/roller cage or retainer. These are common in non sealed hubs, non sealed headsets and non sealed bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these types of bearing, proper disassembly and inspection gives the best diagnosis. All components should be cleaned and degreased with a suitable solvent. Then close inspection is what follows. Do this in a rather clean work area, with good light. Look for cracked, bent, corroded, chipped or otherwise abnormally worn parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the materials and procedures used on fabrication, some items are prone to get some weird wear patterns. (For example, during a time, here in my country was difficult to get another kind of wheel bearing than a Chinese variety, where the balls quickly developed tiny pores, which in turn led to ball breakage. Another kind had balls that used to &quot;peel off&quot; like an onion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any rough surface in any of the parts justifies replacement. In short term or emergency, it is ok to replace only the damaged part, but chances are, the other components have received damage as well, even if it's non perceivable, so for the long term (or heavy use) the best is to replace all components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This inspection can be part of scheduled or preventive maintenance, but should also be performed in case grinding noise is heard when spinning the suspected axle, or when &quot;ticks&quot; or &quot;clicks&quot; are felt from normal operation or external inspection. This means that every &quot;now and then&quot; you should spin your wheels while hand-holding them by the axle, steer the bike while lifting the front wheel (or with the bike in a workstand) and spin your cranks delicately by hand when the chain is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, noise or rough feel is caused by sand and other debris that managed its way into the bearing and is stuck in the grease, so, cleaning and applying fresh grease is enough to solve the problem, provided the symptom wasn't left too long unattended. Cheap bearings and good ones with worn out seals are specially prone to get dirt caught inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These kinds of bearing should be properly adjusted in reassembly. The cone should press consistently against bearing balls, but not so tight as to cause seizure, and the retaining nut should be tightly torqued against the cone to prevent self tightening/loosening of the assembly. Take into account that when adjusting the retaining nut, the cone will get a bit tighter against the bearing, due to the existing slack in bolt-nut threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most difficult (IMHO) type of bearing es the sealed one, as it usually is press-fit into its receptacle and almost for sure it need fairly specialized tools for removal/installation. However, this kind of bearing is usually much better made and from higher quality materials, so they last much longer and need less maintenance (if any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same symptoms reveal a faulty bearing: grinding, ticking or clicking noises, notched or stepped rotation, jerk, or loose feel. As the &quot;sealed&quot; usually means no maintenance can be performed, replacing the bearing is normally the best/only solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealed bearings are common in high end hubs, bottom bracket cartridges, integrated headsets and pivot points of some rear suspension designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T16:51:49.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10498" CreationDate="2012-07-25T17:34:24.823" Score="23" ViewCount="17250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in need of a new bicycle helmet and have been exploring some alternative options. One possibility I am considering is visiting my local Army Surplus store and getting a helmet there. I only use my bike for commuting, 3-4 miles in a single trip, tops. So the weight or lack of ventilation won't be a problem for me. Additionally, having a helmet durable enough to not need replacing after a minor bump or contact with the ground seems appealing (and cost-effective).&#xA;Right now, I am thinking something along the lines of a vintage WWII helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is would this be a viable and safe option for me or do I need some sense slapped in to me? I figure if it's meant to deflect bullets or shrapnel, then it should work fine for a fall or if I get hit by a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I'll have look into the &lt;em&gt;legality&lt;/em&gt; of this for my state on my own. But I am wondering if anyone out there has any experience or advice for me on this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4016" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T03:18:37.213" Title="Would a military helmet make a safe alternative to a bicycle helmet?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;protection&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2012-07-25T17:57:59.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has been a really good discussion!  As for bike technology being better today than in the past.  I disagree somewhat.  I have two high end bikes, one from 1998 and one from 2011.  My time over my training course is almost identical.  The weight diffence is about 3lbs and one is carbon while the other is steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The note about looking at TT times.  This will not be helpful, as TT bikes about in the 90's were faster than TT bikes today, because the UCI did not have rules around TT bikes. Take a look at what some riders were riding.  Some bikes look like the old softride bikes with not seat tube, while other bikes had no downtube.  Furthermore it was allowed to race a 700cc wheel in the back and a 650 upfront.  On this topic, during part of the 90's a form of areobars were allowed in road races, along with spinnergy and other 'high tech' gear.  An interest TT that I always reference is the one that happened in the 1997 tdf.  Riis the defending champion had a custom tt bike made for him which cost over 12K (unheard of for 1997).  Ullrich on his store bike blew him away.  Riis ended up throwing the TT bike in a ditch!  Moral, its not the bike, but the engine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4622" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T17:57:59.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10434" CreationDate="2012-07-25T18:16:31.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my own experience (199cm, quite fit but 'semi-athletic' 120kg): For £500 - £750, you won't have that much choice! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important aspect are wheels, and despite extensive research, I haven't come across a suitable &quot;off-the-shelf&quot; setup. Instead, I use handbuilt wheels, 36 double-butted spokes, deep profile rims, quality hubs. I currently have these in use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/product/detail/aid:339581&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/product/detail/aid:339581&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other pair I have ordered is the aid:339609. The 105 hubs seem to be identical to the Tiagras, but I have chosen them for the &quot;all black combination&quot;. I've combined the wheels with 25/28mm slick tires. The difference in rolling resistance is neglectable, but comfort and protection against pinch flats is much better. The wheels took quite a few beatings from pot holes on longish night rides with added panniers, i.e. the London to Brighton and Dunwich Run. They are still true and fast. I also hadn't any broken spokes since using the replacement wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole wheel/tire combination will cost you about £150, which leaves £350 - £600 for the bike, maybe less if you want to invest in pedals, shoes, replacement tubes, basic tools and a small computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you go with a good alloy frame. Some people don't like their stiffness, but what might be uncomfortable at 70kg and small frame sizes gets much more elastic at 140kg and a bigger frame!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other important part is the crank set and bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally went with a Decathlon Fitness bike (Forme 3, was on offer for £200 and is now back to £250). Note that the front wheel has clearance for 25mm tires only, while the rear wheel can fit 28mm. I also needed to replace the cassette as the bike comes with a 7 speed freewheel setup which is incompatible with typical road hubs. This wasn't too bad as I don't need the mountain-ish 14-28 range and have now a 12-21 instead, which gives about the same range as a 20 gears compact race setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Decathlon was a temporary choice while looking into a more suitable race bike, but it has worked so well that I decided to keep it as my future commuting/fitness bike. The bike I've ordered last week is the Radon R1 4.0: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radon-bikes.de/xist4c/web/R1-4-0---SSV_id_18452_.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.radon-bikes.de/xist4c/web/R1-4-0---SSV_id_18452_.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is currently on offer for €849 (around £650) plus about £25 for shipping to the UK. You can probably sell the included 20-spoke Mavic Aksium wheels and tires for £150. It has a good stiff alloy frame with a combination of Ultegra, 105 and FSA parts. The FSA cranks are a bit on the heavy side, but I read about a taller Tour rider who actually preferred these for the added stiffness. Regarding frame and part weights in general, you can probably start thinking about these when you're down below 80kg ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you might expect, I can't give you any long term opinion on the Radon yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other alternatives I looked into were the Chris Boardman bikes which were recently on sale at Halfords, except that they are not produced in my frame size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4621" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T18:16:31.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10489" CreationDate="2012-07-25T18:35:00.393" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert, but I would say it is probably not safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that are good at deflecting small fast moving objects aren't always good at absorbing crushing force. Bike helmets are designed to absorb most of the force from the impact as to protect your dome from it. I am not sure how well an army helmet will do in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good analogy might be using a bullet vest to stop a bullet vs using a bullet vest to protect yourself from a sledge hammer wielding psycho. It may work really well for one but not the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-01-11T18:54:26.560" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T18:54:26.560" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-25T19:28:47.220" Score="3" ViewCount="12899" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I locked my bike to a fence and upon my return about an hour later, I found the lock jammed. I am unable to insert my key fully into the keyhole. My friend suspects that while locking the bike, I might have removed the key too hastily, resulting in the lock pins being misaligned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lock is a Giant brand U-lock. The key goes in about half way and is unable to turn. I tried forcing the key to turn which resulted in me snapping the key (luckily, I have a spare). Any help in the matter is much appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4624" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T06:18:51.600" Title="Jammed Giant brand U-Lock. Unable to insert key" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-04-10T06:37:13.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10493" CreationDate="2012-07-25T19:42:41.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It happens every once in a while, and I am not sure it is anything you did, just the design of the lock. Shoot some WD-40 or something up in there and just wiggle the key around in there, that has helped me in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, take it to a bike shop and have them chop it and buy a new one. If it is locked to something that makes it so you can't take it somewhere, a hydraulic  car jack can be placed inside of it and pop it open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T19:42:41.967" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10497" CreationDate="2012-07-25T20:02:57.020" Score="4" ViewCount="7633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace the cassette on my bike with a smaller version, as I find I'm only ever using the top ring of my chainring (except once recently during rain-ageddon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to know when buying and fitting a replacement? Are there known compatibility issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Shimano 7-speed MF-TZ21 (apparently &quot;14/28&quot; means something in this context).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you haven't guessed: I don't know a lot about cycle part replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2969" LastEditorUserId="2969" LastEditDate="2012-07-25T22:33:39.520" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T01:16:46.470" Title="What do I need to know when replacing my cassette?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;7-speed&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10495" CreationDate="2012-07-25T20:15:24.060" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 14/28 is the number of teeth on the smallest and largest cog of the cassette. From your description you want to make at least the second number smaller, possibly the first number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your replacement says that it's Shimano compatible (and 7 speed), you should be fine. Count the teeth on the cog that has the most teeth that you actually use...make sure the new one has at least this many teeth. I would go a few extra teeth but my legs get fatigued now and again and I just go into pleasure-commute mode. My off the cuff recommendation would be to look for a 13-26 (Amazon has these for less than $25 bucks). I'd say the 13-23 would be too much of a jump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information on the topic from the oracle Sheldon Brown: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k7-7.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/k7-7.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how many teeth there are on the most largest cog, you may need to take a link or two out of your chain. Replace the cassette first and see (or better yet, take this opportunity to replace your chain as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastEditorUserId="2969" LastEditDate="2012-07-25T21:23:01.170" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T21:23:01.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10495" CreationDate="2012-07-25T20:44:03.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem (48x38x28 chainset). It turned out that MF-TZ21 is actually not a 'cassette', but a 'freewheel'. Your options for that are very limited: In the UK, Raleigh is distributing a 7 speed 13-24T model for less than 10 quid. SunRace is still producing 7 speed freewheels, but the closed-spaced 12-?? model wasn't distributed in the UK: Check eBay Australia maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended upgrading to hand-built wheels with a standard Shimano 8/9/10 speed 'freehub'. Using simple spacer rings, these accept 7 speed cassettes compatible with the MF-TZ21, i.e. I got the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-cs-hg-50-cassette-7-speed/aid:414549&quot;&gt;12-21T Shimano CS-HG50&lt;/a&gt; and love the resulting gearing. You might need to fine tune your rear derailleur after installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4621" LastEditorUserId="2969" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T01:16:46.470" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T01:16:46.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10489" CreationDate="2012-07-25T22:43:20.323" Score="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle helmets contain crushable foam that works to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/general.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;extend the duration of impact by about 6 ms&lt;/a&gt; (milliseconds).   This doesn't make the impact force disappear, instead it extends the duration of force experienced by the brain.  By extending the duration, you reduce the peak force.  The brain can withstand impacts to some degree, however if the impact is too forceful over too short a period of time (like your head hitting asphalt), the peak force experienced by your brain becomes too high resulting in brain damage or even death.  While 6 ms may seem  small, it can be enough to reduce the peak force experience from lethal and/or damaging to survivable and/or reduced damage (see Figure 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7FFq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; B)  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OpuwG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Figure 1&lt;/strong&gt;.  Impact force by time a brain sees with a helmet (A) and without a helmet (B).  The total energy is the same (area under the curve), but the peak force is lower for the brain with a helmet.&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;br&gt;(Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bhsi.org/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Combat_Helmet&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Modern military helmet&lt;/a&gt; are designed to protect against things like shrapnel, not absorb impacts (although &lt;a href=&quot;http://arxiv.org/pdf/0809.3468.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;newer research&lt;/a&gt; may change that).  As a result your peak impact force in a crash will not substantially change and you will be under a similar risk for brain injury as being helmet less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you mentioned having to replace bike helmets that take an impact as a downside. If you wonder why bicycle helmets are not made with foam that &quot;bounces back&quot; (e.g. hockey helmets) this is because it can cause &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; damage in an impact.  With this type of foam your brain receives force in the initial hit and then it experiences a secondary &quot;hit&quot; as the foam returns (often these non-crushable foams return rapidly).  Crushable foam however does not rebound as it remains crushed. The downside is that once it is crushed it no longer provides any protective benefit and needs to be replaced. By extension when the crushable foam degrades it also needs to be replaced.  This is why it is also suggested that old bicycle helmets also need to be replaced (what constitutes old is up for debate).  In this case the crushable foam has degraded over time and its impact absorption properties change for the worse and will not provide the same benefit in an impact as a newer helmet with foam that has not degraded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I do remember hearing about a new type of foam that behaves similar to the crushable foam used in helmets, but rebounds slowly.  I will have to work to find that reference. But if they are in the marketplace they will be more robust to hits and repeat impacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T04:04:56.447" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T04:04:56.447" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10493" CreationDate="2012-07-25T23:29:23.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible you've jammed dirt into the cylinder inadvertently. I've done this before and nearly sheared the key off in the lock before realizing that it wasn't completely seated in the cylinder. Bang the crap out of the lock, and if you have anything slender enough to fit, see if you cant get it up in there and dislodge or scrape anything that might be impacted at the back of the cylinder. Don't be afraid of a bit of dry lube as well, as long as you use it sparingly. Otherwise, cut it off and go to your Giant dealer to try to get it warrantied. Stealing your own bike will be fun- it's quite the social experiment to observe how little people care and/or are willing to get involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T23:29:23.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10489" CreationDate="2012-07-25T23:32:17.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Military helmets are designed to protect your head against flying shrapnel, not absorb blunt force trauma. It's better than nothing, but that's not saying much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T23:32:17.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10493" CreationDate="2012-07-25T23:41:03.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this same issue happen with my Masterlock, and generally remedy it with lots and lots of wiggling. It mostly happens to me in the winter when a bit of moisture gets in there, so I don't know if it's the same issue or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My method was to stick the key in as far as it would go, and then repeatedly try and wiggle it back to the most locked position, while moving the key back and for laterally (or whatever the perpendicular direction would be to whichever way it turns.) Just go back and forth a lot - sometimes it works quickly, but sometimes it takes ~15 minutes. Either way, that's always &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt; worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4625" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T23:41:03.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="865" CreationDate="2012-07-26T00:05:18.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheel illustration above would appear to be a non-drive side radial lace and a drive side 3cross rear wheel. I've used this combo with a full radial laced front on a 24&quot; BMX Cruiser I built in the late 90's. I referred to the rim manufactures data base through a distributer and found their recommendation to be spot on. I have found some spoke lengths can be hard to find. A Phil Wood Spoke Cutter/Threader is a vital tool to have access to in situations like that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4626" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T00:05:18.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10514" CreationDate="2012-07-26T00:08:40.660" Score="4" ViewCount="5276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered a zefal husky pump, and it just arrived today. I am pretty excited about it. (Who doesn't get excited about pumps?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that the gauge is reading ~50psi instead of ~0psi I wouldn't mind if it was off by 5psi or so, but this is ridiculous. Is there a way to fix it, or do I have to return it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T23:04:57.437" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T23:10:07.243" Title="Can I zero the gauge on my floor pump" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10506" CreationDate="2012-07-26T03:08:19.067" Score="10" ViewCount="8088" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the situation. I have GT Agressor 1.0 mountain bike. I want to travel for about a week on my bike, which means that I will have to ride a lot on paved roads (around 70% of the road). So I would like to make the proper adjustments on my GT to improve my speed and make it lighter. Once I come back I'd like to recover my mountain bike. One additional point that is worth mentioning: to buy another bicycle for that specific purpose is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Said that, the question would be: how can I (temporarily) convert my mountain bike into a touring bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4627" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T20:09:49.003" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T11:08:33.940" Title="How can I adapt a mountain bike for a one or two week tour?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10504" CreationDate="2012-07-26T04:49:22.167" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes have been pressed into service as touring machines for a long time. Old hardtail mountain bikes make great, bristly touring machines, and they're fun to ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tires&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing you'll want to look at are the tires. Most mountain bikes come with knobby tires for riding on dirt and gravel. A set of slicks or semi-slick tires will decrease rolling resistance. Tires with tread on the sides are also good for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Carrying stuff&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/1862/8&quot;&gt;Racks&lt;/a&gt;: A sturdy rear rack &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a front rack are the best way to go for long-term use. Be aware that a suspension fork can make fitting a front rack difficult, but there &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; racks made to accomodate this. (Old Man Mountain racks are amazingly sturdy and work with suspension forks, but they're not cheap or light.) Rear racks are only a problem if you have a full-suspension bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be tempted to put only a rear rack on the bike. This will still allow you to carry a good amount of cargo, but the shorter wheelbase of a mountain bike (compared to a proper touring or cyclocross bike) will encourage wheelies while climbing hills with a load, so be careful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike doesn't have the fittings for racks, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/571#571&quot;&gt;hose clamps&lt;/a&gt; are a handy way to get around that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be easier to buy or borrow a trailer for touring. You can get a cargo trailer, or find a kid/pet trailer and convert it. These can often be found at yard sales or on craigslist inexpensively. A trailer also means you can skip buying &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/402/80&quot;&gt;panniers&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Handlebars&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find the flat bars of a mountain bike onerous while riding for hours and hours. A pair of barends will help here. I recommend the large, curved kind that allow you to sit more upright. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other stuff&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a single trip, this would be overkill, but if you decide to do more touring on this bike, look into getting a decent touring &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/2812/8&quot;&gt;saddle&lt;/a&gt; that you can sit on for hours on end, or even a Brooks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/2803/8&quot;&gt;fenders&lt;/a&gt; for a single trip is, similarly, probably not needed, and many mountain bikes would be tricky to fit them on. But there are partial fenders you can mount on your downtube that might help. (Or you could make one out of cardboard and zip ties, it'd probably last you the weekend and then some.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I toured several times using an old mountain bike; here it is, with Tubus racks and four panniers and a camping roll: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2459688521/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;100_7014.JPG by neilfein, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3175/2459688521_77ab3677f8.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;375&quot; alt=&quot;100_7014.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double-check your brakes before heading out; enough stopping power to bring you and the bike to a halt might not be enough when you add on the weight of camping gear and clothing and a beat-up guitar for the campfire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bike tourers aren't &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; as comfortable as dedicated touring bikes, but the fun of being able to hop onto the dirt outweighs that. You may be a little slower than a touring bike, but even with your slick tires, you'll smoke those guys on gravel trails. Have fun! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T05:01:27.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4080" CreationDate="2012-07-26T12:14:06.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that you just need to adjust your front derailleur a bit to accommodate your new setup. There are many threads here and videos online about how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crank may not be the exact same distance from the frame as your old one, but that doesn't mean it doesn't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T12:14:06.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10503" CreationDate="2012-07-26T16:35:34.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At least two reviews on Amazon for this particular pump report problems with the gauge, so I think you probably need to return it for replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you send it back, though, try DanielRHicks's suggestion to twist the gauge body. In a quick search, I wasn't able to find out whether this particular pump has an adjustable gauge, but it's worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T16:35:34.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10473" CreationDate="2012-07-26T17:11:51.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Accuracy varies between each smartphone and dedicated GPS device. It even depends on how the device is used. For example, many smartphones use cell towers in addition to GPS, which can improve accuracy in a city but have no effect on mountain roads. Furthermore, the type of accuracy you require depends on how you plan to use your data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to barometers, a GPS with a built-in altimeter will show improvement in altitude accuracy. Whether this is helpful depends on whether elevation is important to you (see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10376/is-it-possible-to-estimate-road-grade-while-riding&quot;&gt;Is it possible to estimate road grade while riding?&lt;/a&gt;). A barometer will not improve the accuracy of latitude or longitude readings, and if you don't care about elevation while you're riding, you can fix altitude data after you get home (see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4526/how-can-i-fix-bad-elevation-data-in-a-gps-log&quot;&gt;How can I fix bad elevation data in a GPS log?&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, a barometer will help with elevation accuracy during a ride but won't affect latitude and longitude. Other factors, such as the quality of the GPS receiver and antenna, are more important for the accuracy of latitude and longitude, and these vary from device to device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T17:11:51.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10511" CreationDate="2012-07-26T19:42:14.747" Score="4" ViewCount="3378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Trek Cobia with Hornet brakes. About an hour and a half into my trek through the woods this morning I noticed that (once again) my left brake lever was hitting my knuckle when I fully compressed it. I had noticed it compressed too far two days ago so I adjusted the position with a 2 mm allen wrench. I notice that the brake lever is also closer to the handlebar than before. These are hydraulic disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem before, a few months ago I noticed that I could compress the brake lever almost all the way to my handlebar, which was unusual (this is all with the left lever by the way, my rear brakes are fine). Eventually my front brake lost all power and compressed fully to the handlebar with no resistance.Since I was relatively new to mountain biking I just took it to my LBS and they bled the brake. A few minutes into my next ride the same thing happened. Note that the brake stayed fully functional until I used it. I got that same LBS to bleed the brake again, but alas, my brake lost power again. This time I took it to another bike shop to bleed it for a third time, and it stayed. I had no problems on any future rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, on to the problem at hand. When I noticed the problem two days ago (just in my room) I readjusted the position of the lever with a 2mm allen wrench (as stated earlier) and I also decided to reposition the entire mechanism relative to my handlebar so I could get an easier reach and so my wrists would drop more, making going over obstacles easier (saw it on a video on YouTube: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/kq8sxPXgfx4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;). The reason I bring this up is that I may have merely &lt;em&gt;noticed&lt;/em&gt; the brake lever compressing too far and touching my knuckle when I used it because I just raised the brake lever. So I'm not sure if this is a new problem or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never noticed any discharge on any part of my front brake system, not on the cable, not below on the caliper, not by the brake lever. Could there be a small enough hole that lets air in but doesn't let liquid out? I'm going to reposition the lever again with the 2mm allen wrench and see if it happens again. Do I need to take apart the housing, could there be a &quot;screw loose&quot; or something along those lines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your patience, I feel like I rambled on a bit, but I just wanted to be clear and give all the relevant details I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I have no money, so going to the bike shop is kind of unavailable at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4634" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T20:26:20.590" Title="Front brake lever will not stay tightened" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10510" CreationDate="2012-07-26T20:26:20.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do these brakes have a small adjuster screw just behind the lever blade? If so, that is a reach adjustment. It allows you to adjust the distance of the lever blade from the bar. Sounds like it's turning on it's own. Some brakes have this issue. What you need is the tiniest amount of blue (workable) loctite/threadlocker on the threads of that reach adjuster bolt. &lt;em&gt;Very important&lt;/em&gt; that you don't get it anywhere else or else it will gum everything up. I would apply it with a needle or safety pin to ensure precise application- squeezing it directly from the tube may prove messy. Once that sets, the lever should stay in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T20:26:20.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10459" CreationDate="2012-07-26T21:18:37.687" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following forces are acting on your bike as you roll downhill (in more or less decreasing order):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Gravity&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The force of gravity is proportional to mass. If two riders have the same aerodynamic profile, the heavier rider will descend with a higher maximum speed.&#xA;This is easily seen in the formula for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terminal_velocity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;terminal velocity&lt;/a&gt;. The intuitive explanation is that the two will experience the same force due to drag, but the heavier rider will have a higher force due to gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are heavier than your friend, gravity can't explain why he is faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Drag&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drag has a huge effect on descending speed. It's possible that your friend is getting into a tighter tuck, which as @ChefFlambe pointed out can even include your leg position. The aerodynamic properties of the bicycle (the frame, rims, spokes, etc.) can also make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that rider position is the most likely explanation for your difference in speed. Since you are taller than your friend, it may be harder for you to get into a tight tuck. You mentioned that you think it might be the rims. If this is the case, the front wheel will make a bigger difference than the rear wheel, so you could try swapping front wheels to rule this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pedaling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cyclist who continues to pedal downhill will go faster than one who is coasting. A bicycle with a higher top gear can be pedaled at a higher speed, and a cyclist who can ride at a higher cadence may have an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rule out pedaling as the explanation, try going downhill with both of you coasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Rolling Resistance&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires with high rolling resistance are slower than tires with low rolling resistance. Factors include not only tread type and width, but also the type of rubber and casing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you both have similar 700x23c wheels at roughly the same pressure (or slightly higher for the heavier rider), then you can rule this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Friction&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Friction in the hubs will slow down a bike, but this force is probably insignificant unless there is a problem with bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source of friction is in the freehub or freewheel, which will be ratcheting (clicking) while coasting.  The friction may be difficult to compare against your friend's, however, unless you remove a lot from each of your rear hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-11-01T16:51:41.347" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T16:51:41.347" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7199" CreationDate="2012-07-26T21:49:07.547" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;WIDER TYRES ARE FASTER&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every study on rolling resistance (including ones carried out by the leading tyre manufacturers) demonstrates clearly that wider tyres have LOWER rolling resistance and not just at the same pressure. This is also verified by many people (including myself) who use 25mm-28mm and much wider tyres on a regular basis and will never go back to anything narrower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For vast majority of road cyclists there isn't a single rational reason (other than time trailing) for using 23mm tyres if the same model is available in 25 or 28 or wider width. On some bad roads (e.g. UK) it's actually unwise and dangerous to bounce around on such narrow piece of rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons why the myth of &quot;fast&quot; narrow tyres is still alive and kicking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;23mm is everywhere from the adverts, your local bike shop, cycling club to the TdF.&#xA;It's inconceivable for most of people to think that so many people around them could get it so wrong. Most of folks just go with the flow and don't ask questions. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;People believe that they can &quot;feel&quot; rolling resistance and if narrow tyres are pumped up to its usual 100-120PSI it feels fast. You can't feel rolling resistance but you have to methodologically measure it with a power meter of some sort. Firmness and discomfort doesn't translate to speed, quite the opposite. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's a common belief that rolling resistance is just a function of &#xA;a contact patch and the lower the contact area the faster the tyre is. The facts are that the shape of a contact patch and volume are more important than the total area.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;People assume that rolling resistance is just about hysteresis (friction/resistance with the tyre itself) and nothing else. They are unaware of (or ignore) &quot;suspension losses&quot;&#xA;which occur on some less than perfectly smooth roads (most) and are about energy lost on lifting the rider/bike on imperfections of the surface. &#xA;For the same reason but on a much larger scale most of experienced mountain bikers with half brain run their tyres at a low pressure to go faster as even small obstacles (even bumpy field or gravel) are absorbed more effectively with less energy lost.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;People confuse assumptions and beliefs with hard evidence. How many times you've read/heard: &quot;Surely there is a reason why 23mm tyres are so popular...&quot; &quot;Surely if the pros use 23mm tyres...&quot; Assumptions don't prove anything.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some people (like one of the posters) have tried wider tyres and they found them slower.&#xA;Only comparing identical tyres in different sizes make sense and it's pretty obvious that a 23mm Michelin Pro3 is going to be faster than a 28mm Gatorskin due to a different design. Also the difference in speed that 2-3mm difference offers is most likely very small and can be only measured during repeated tests with a power meter at various pressure levels to find each tyre's sweet spot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many people have never tried anything wider as their frames/forks don't have enough clearance and more sensible and practical bikes taking wider tyres aren't &quot;good/fast&quot; enough for them or don't look right. They've never tried any fast wider tyres like Rivendell Jack Browns 33.3333mm or Schwalbe Kojaks 35mm or some fast 650B tyres. They have never run a pair of custom shaven completely bold 26x2.00 Schwalbe Furious Fred 120TPI 3oog mountain bike tyres on the road. It could be an eye opener.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Narrow tyres can be pumped up to higher pressures and higher pressure equals more speed. That's &lt;strong&gt;incorrect&lt;/strong&gt;. As you increase the pressure, rolling resistance is going down but then at a certain point starts climbing sharply due to reduced ability of the tyre to conform to the non-perfect road surface (suspension losses). Even on a track/velodrome you won't benefit from 200PSI.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For every tyre width/volume, road surface and the rider's weight combination there is always an optimal (fastest) pressure. High pressure on its own means absolutely nothing.      &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pros use it! &#xA;This the favourite argument of the defenders of status quo. You can't argue with it, can you?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well... the pros ride at completely different speeds and therefore the aero benefits are probably more significant than rolling resistance. An average amateur rider would be naive to worry about the air flow differences between 23-28mm tyres. &#xA;Weight is also crucial as winning the stage / future career can be decided on a single climb. Again people worrying about the weight difference of several grams (rotating or not) may be slightly over-anxious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pros used to use 19mm tyres too in the past and now they are very slowly migrating to 25mm tyres. Were they wrong at the time, or are they wrong now or they will be wrong in the future? What if they discover that 28mm is even better? Will everyone be blindly following them? &#xA;The truth is that they are as guilty as you and me of being humans and use stuff that feels right and also aren't immune to peer pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road cycling community tends to be very traditional, conservative and protective of the status quo as I've experienced on other forums and in real life but for being open-minded and embracing &quot;new&quot; things can greatly benefit one's cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4637" LastEditorUserId="10514" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T21:53:23.893" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T21:53:23.893" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10503" CreationDate="2012-07-26T23:10:07.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out what was wrong and managed to fix it. It was a minor enough issue that I'm not going to return the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ET3pU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;zefal husky pressure gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As shown in the image above, the pressure gauge is protected by a plastic cover. It's pretty easy to slide this cover up the shaft of the pump and out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once this is out of the way, the pressure gauge can be removed by unscrewing it counter-clockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the pin indicating the current pressure can slide up its axis to a point where it is going to be turned by the axis when the pressure changes, but it won't start at 0. The way I fixed it was by jiggling the guage until the indicator fell back into place where it should be. I suspect it came loose when I biked the pump across town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it has been re-zeroed, you can screw the gauge back on and slide the protective cover back. Then you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T23:10:07.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7199" CreationDate="2012-07-26T23:22:41.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire width (and tire pressure) are controversial because it is extremely difficult to find meaningful data and because there are so many variables involved. Variables include both rider preferences, such as speed, comfort, price, and durability, as well as physical factors, such as tire width, weight, types of rubber, casings, road surfaces, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issues that everyone agrees on are that narrower tires have less weight, less aerodynamic drag, and less comfort than wider tires. Weight includes both the tire itself (about 100 g per tire to switch from 23mm to 28mm) and the larger tube to go with it (about 25 g per tube). That gives a total of about 250 g, which for acceleration is equivalent to about 500 g on the frame. Drag is harder to quantify, but a thinner tire is more aerodynamic than a wider tire. Comfort is also hard to quantify, but a wider tire and lower pressure are generally more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rolling resistance is a contentious issue. Lennard Zinn wrote two columns about rolling resistance: &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/tech-faq-seriously-wider-tires-have-lower-rolling-resistance-than-their-narrower-brethren_209268&quot;&gt;Seriously, wider tires have lower rolling resistance than their narrower brethren&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/tech-faq-again-bigger-tires-roll-faster_209888&quot;&gt;Again, bigger tires roll faster&lt;/a&gt;, citing data and comments from Schwalbe, Wheel Energy, and Zipp. Critics such as Lloyd Chambers (in &lt;a href=&quot;http://windinmyface.com/blog/2012/20120314_2-AreWiderTiresFaster.html&quot;&gt;Are Wider Road Bike Tires Faster&lt;/a&gt;) have noted that such comparisons assume that tires assume equal tire pressure for tires of different widths, ignore aerodynamics and handling, and assume unrealistically low loads (50 kg). It seems that wider tires probably have lower rolling resistance, but this position does not seem to have been thoroughly proven yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever the theoretical ideal, there are a few critical issues that make wide tires less practical for many cyclists. First, most road bikes are designed for 23mm tires and may not have clearance for 27mm or wider tires. Second, most road tires sold are 23mm, and wider tires may be hard to find and more expensive. Third, most wide tires are designed for utility bike use and are heavier and less supple than racing tires. Fourth, wide tires may be less stable on rims designed for narrow tires (&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/tech-faq-again-bigger-tires-roll-faster_209888&quot;&gt;according to Zipp&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some indications that wider tires that are specifically designed for speed may have lower rolling resistance than thinner tires, but this is just one of many important factors that cyclists must consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T23:38:26.980" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T23:38:26.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-27T15:01:27.057" Score="2" ViewCount="19708" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't ridden in anger since around 2003. I have two bikes which I am trying to return to a roadworthy state. Each has a non-functioning right hand shimano shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Racing bike: Ultegra 6500 (9-speed), double chainring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Training/winter/touring bike: 1055 (8-speed), triple chainring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that it would be cost-effective to convert both to shimano 9-speed, as parts (shifters) are likely available second hand, and I have a spare Ultegra 9-speed rear mech that I could stick on my training bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good history of shimano groupsets, so I can work out which 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace groups were 9-speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that modern shimano groupsets have handlebar-routed gear cables. Are there any 9-speed compatible shifters which have this? (I remember that there used to be a method for converting campagnolo 10-speed to shimano 9-speed in order to gain this advantage, which I'd be willing to consider if I knew the relevant components.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;which shimano groupsets were 9-speed&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;do any shimano 9-speed groupsets have handlebar-routed gear cables&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...or please direct me to somewhere that will tell me this information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4642" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T11:11:57.727" Title="What shifters are compatible with shimano 9-speed?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10519" CreationDate="2012-07-27T15:06:47.533" Score="27" ViewCount="52174" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do cyclists use padded shorts instead of padded saddle? It seems like putting padding on the saddle would be more optimal. Doubly so for triathlon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4641" LastActivityDate="2021-05-17T15:43:54.800" Title="Padded saddle VS padded shorts" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10517" CreationDate="2012-07-27T15:19:49.647" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting the padding in the shorts means that the padding will always be exactly where you need it. Most people tend to change their position on the bike a bit, specially when riding longer tours. With the padded saddles, the padding won't change when you alter your position, which can result in blisters or sores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T15:19:49.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10517" CreationDate="2012-07-27T15:37:08.823" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Padded seats tend to have more padding than used at any given time. This pushes the other 'extra' padding into the soft tissues. This causes numbness and discomfort over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So slim hard seats are actually more comfortable over time, if they are the right size. You need to make sure your sit bones (ischial tuberosity) are well situated. The sit bones of your hips are designed to support weight for long periods of time, where a plush seat disperses your weight to muscles and other areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-08-02T18:19:28.180" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T18:19:28.180" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10517" CreationDate="2012-07-27T15:37:56.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not really &quot;padding&quot;, although it does offer a cushion. It's a chamois, which part of its purpose is to absorb moisture and wick it away from your skin which helps reduce friction. This is aided by creams that condition the chamois.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and +1 to @Matt Adams answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T15:37:56.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-27T20:18:56.627" Score="9" ViewCount="2506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to start daily bike commuting again after a long hiatus and want to go all out on safety. My fear of an accident is extreme enough that I am looking into regularly wearing body armor and a full-face helmet just for commuting. When I commuted previously, I felt like I was having near-death experiences on a weekly basis. Anyway, I'd love tips and recommendations on body armor and helmets that could maximize my safety in case of a big crash - especially stuff that comes in womens sizes. I know next to nothing about what is out there and have never done any mountain biking or the kind of sport biking for which people normally use the heavy duty safety gear. Putting on separate knee pads, elbow pads, etc. etc. seems like a huge pain to do twice a day, so I want to find something more like pull-on long-sleeved or short-sleeved top, and ditto for shorts or pants, that has the padding sewn in that I could wear under t-shirts &amp;amp; skort/skirt for summer. And solutions for winter as well. I'd love to get any tips. I'm considering just getting a padded waterproof motorcycle or ski outfit for winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and on helmet safety - are the skate/multisport helmets like Bern safer or less safe than traditional cycling helmets? Could one of those potentially be a better choice for commuting than a full-face MBX-style helmet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little more info about my commute: I live in Washington DC and go about 4.5 miles each way, and it's fairly steep downhill (going) and uphill (coming back). My bike is a very heavy electric assist model. Because of the electric assist, I don't have to worry about overheating as much as on a traditional bike, and I also have much quicker acceleration from a stop. Biking on my route is fairly dangerous, because cars constantly whip around right turns without even looking whether there are pedestrians or cyclists in the way (hence my many near-death experiences). Due to the heaviness of the bike and the speeds I reach going downhill, braking hard can also be dangerous. In addition, I will also be biking throughout the winter when my homeward leg will be in darkness. I was once rear-ended by a cab, and another time I had a braking problem and had a sidelong collision with a car as a result - thankfully no injuries those times, but given past experience I do not want to take any chances of orphaning my daughter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4643" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T20:00:33.477" Title="Armor and helmet for ultra-safe commuting (womens size)?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;protection&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-27T20:45:41.153" Score="9" ViewCount="1579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have three gears in the front and 8 in the back, but I always use the highest gear (I live in a flat place) I might drop down one or two gears occationally but this is only a small fraction of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to buy new gears and re-center this distribution around something I find useful, I probably only need the top three ratios from my current setup, and I would like to have maybe 5 more ratios above that. Is this type of modification ever performed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry I don't know any of the relevant cycling vocabulary.&#xA;Also, what are power ratios measured in and how do I determine the ratio of my current highest gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I buy these parts?&#xA;Can I make this modification for under $100?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4645" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T03:03:55.153" Title="I find that I'm always in my highest gear. What options to I have to re-distribute the ratios to a more useful range" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10526" CreationDate="2012-07-27T21:16:31.713" Score="1" ViewCount="6691" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MVIz7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the valve I have on my bike, but my current pump does not work with it. What kind of pump do I need to buy that will work with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4461" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T21:34:05.580" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T18:05:54.287" Title="What kind of pump do I need for this valve?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10523" CreationDate="2012-07-27T21:16:57.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get higher gearing, you'll need either a chainring (front gear) with more teeth or a sprocket with fewer teeth. Mountain bikes usually have smaller chainrings because off-road speeds are generally slower. For example, a mountain bike with a triple crankset with 24, 34, and 42-teeth chainrings would be limited in its top speed by the largest (42-teeth) chainring. In constrast, the largest chainring on a road bike may have 50 or 53 teeth, giving 19% or 26% higher gearing respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, upgrading probably won't be as cheap or easy as you hope. You can't just replace a single chainring, so you would need to get a whole new crankset (the crank arm plus chainrings) and also a new front derailleur. Depending on how much your bike is worth, it may be better to get a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T21:16:57.367" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10524" CreationDate="2012-07-27T21:20:15.520" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a Presta Valve. Your pump, I am going to guess, is a Schrader Valve. You can buy a Presta pump from a shop or buy a $2 adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35q87.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a $2 adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T21:20:15.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10522" CreationDate="2012-07-27T21:37:05.120" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you can certainly wear BMX armour, or possibly even use motorbike armour and wear full face helmets,  I would put much more emphasis on changing the way you cycle to reduce the risk from cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say cars turn without seeing cyclists- well, you have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;become more visible. It isn't high fashion, but wear colours and lights, flashing and bright. Use your lane- own it, don't hide over at the side. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;become more aware of other vehicles and make sure you are not where they will be. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wear a full face or motorbike helmet you will not be able to hear as well, so your awareness of other vehicles may suffer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially on such a short commute cycle, you should be able to take care at each junction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T21:37:05.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10522" CreationDate="2012-07-27T22:11:56.477" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a motorcycle on the freeway (interstate for those back east) and you have to live with the fact that if you are hit by a car there is really nothing you can wear to protect you the way you would like. A helmet will protect your head from the impact of you falling 6 feet to the ground going 20 MPH, but I have yet to see one that will fully protect you from a car or running head on into a barrier on a motorcycle. Even then, you are more likely to obtain serious injury or death from neck injuries than a cracked skull. My son plays football and even using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/QPAFWA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Xenith Helmets&lt;/a&gt; (best anti-concussion helmets) you still hear of concussions. I am not trying to scare you, I am trying to let you know that there is nothing guaranteed to keep you safe on a bike from cars. As long as you understand the risks and still agree to riding, there are a few things to help keep you safer than spandex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are motocross style shirts with thicker pads in them. The material is designed to breathe really well so it doesn't get hot but still good for a hard fall/slide at speed (80-90 mph). Or are body armor that you can buy to go over your clothes. The stripped down &quot;spine only&quot;, the MX style chest plate, and the integrated arm and chest (similar to the shirt I first mentioned but wearing the pads on the outside.)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ui5wO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chest Pads&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the lower body, you can get racing leathers. They are the motorcycle pants that MX riders wear. They protect the hips, thighs, knees, and shins. You can find some pretty light weight ones (and they look frekn SEXY on women!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wear &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/PIxOfQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lizzard Skins Shin Guards&lt;/a&gt;. They are by far the best shin guards out there! Their plastic inserts are thick and bent into a V-shape to distribute the impact to the sides of your legs, where the meat is, rather than the shin bone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaking down to the Kneepads. You can pick up some good ones from any skate shop, and if you decide not to get a fully integrated chest protector, you can get your elbows there too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you are at it, don't forget that a GOOD pair of gloves will protect your hands from road rash is you are sliding. I have used some pretty crapy ones, and found that &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/PIAoCC&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mechanix&lt;/a&gt; make some really good gloves! I use them for my motorcycle as well as my BMX in the skateparks, they hold up against everything I have put them through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T22:11:56.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3618" CreationDate="2012-07-28T01:09:06.290" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ultimate limit of a wheel is not in terms of &quot;weight&quot;, but in terms of force.  I would guess you could statically load most bicycle wheels with about 1000 pounds of weight without causing a failure.  It is dynamic loads that are the issue, and those are hard to predict.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you hit a good-sized bump with a bike wheel (in a non-suspension frame) you apply a force equal to several times your weight to it, and the amount of force applied is going to depend, among other things, on how much shock-absorbing you supply with your arms and legs.  Hitting a bump stiff-armed and with your rear on the saddle applies much more force than if your arms are bent and your legs flexed and supporting you above the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight limits that manufacturers list are at best a guess, based on the &quot;average&quot; rider perceived to be using that style of wheel.  If you ride more aggressively, on rougher terrain, and/or with less shock-absorption provided by your arms and legs (or the bike) then you could be under the limit and still over-stress the wheel.  If you're a &quot;dainty&quot; rider who sticks to smooth pavement, &quot;glides&quot; over RR tracks and the like, and never hops a curb, you weight could safely exceed the &quot;guidelines&quot; by a substantial amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T01:09:06.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10522" CreationDate="2012-07-28T01:21:53.140" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frankly, what you want is impossible.  A good bicycle helmet provides substantial protection from head-impacts-pavement and head-impacts-vehicle events, but basically only those where the velocities involved are small.  The helmet functions by slowing the skull down slowly, avoiding the skull-brain impact which often does the most damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, where the helmet is effective we're talking about impacts which, if they involved another body part, would only result in a bad bruise or maybe a relatively minor fracture -- impacts not much worse than slipping on the ice and going down hard.  Yes, body armor would help with such impacts, but the cost (in terms of weight/comfort)/benefit(in terms of reduced bruising) ratio is very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting broad-sided by a car is an entirely different situation.  If, eg, the car strikes your body at the hip, your spine will be subjected to enormous torsion and a spinal injury is very likely.  Body armor (short of the stuff used in Iraq) will not stiffen the spine.  If the impact is at the knee, similarly no practical body armor will prevent the knee from being torn apart by the impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T01:21:53.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10548" CreationDate="2012-07-28T02:19:06.967" Score="7" ViewCount="2212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot of advice about descending mountain roads involving cornering and braking. I want to know how to go faster when descending on the long straightaway. Is it worth pedaling at speeds above 40 mph or should I just tuck in my legs? Is there anything I can do to my posture beyond dropping down to the lower handle bars and getting as low as possible? Is there any adjustment to the bike fit that could help? Where should I put my weight on the bike? Any other general speed increasing tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4123" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T06:52:52.383" Title="How do I descend faster on the straightaway?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10531" CreationDate="2012-07-28T03:11:57.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you get to a certain speed, and it varies, it's about drag...aerodynamics and hub/rolling friction (mostly hub).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedaling can actually generate turbulence such that it will hurt your speed rather than help (keep in mind that turns, etc. may require some watts to be put back in, but you are asking about the straight). Putting your feet even is usually the most aerodynamic, but you should play with your position and see what &quot;slips&quot; the best. For me it's even with my feet level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Body position is more about your aero profile than about your weight, that said, your rear wheel has a bit more drag due to the freewheel's pawls, so shifting your weight forward will usually gain you a small amount. I say usually because your front wheel is usually not built as strong (probably a radial) and can deform (we are talking REALLY small differences) such that you can lose shifting weight forward. Again, try shifting your weight forward and back and find the sweet spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more you reduce the profile being exposed, in general, the less aero-drag you will encounter. Hands in the drops, back flat and down to the bars, possibly sliding forward or off the saddle and dropping your butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing with the position and you will find little tweaks that help you. Each person is a bit difference. You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; adjust your bike for lower profile, but I would recommend against that...you won't gain much and you lose at everything but the straight descent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other bike things: Hubs. Others may argue, but the difference &lt;em&gt;in a straight descent&lt;/em&gt; of all the different aero-wheels isn't really that much (straight flat is another story). What does make a big difference is fast hubs. I like Hawk Racing's wheels for this reaason, there are a lot of great hubs out there...do the spin test...the one that spins the longest with the same starting impetus will usually do you well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally...descend safely. Don't get into a position that compromises your control and comfort on the bike. At speeds above 40 mph, you need to be in control of your bike. At 50 mph even more so. Your bike will act differently and the road ahead will come at you fast. Your stopping distance is greater than that of cars and motorcycle. Stay safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T03:11:57.463" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10524" CreationDate="2012-07-28T18:05:54.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be that your current pump actually supports this valve, but the application may not be obvious. You may need, for example, to push the valve deeper into the pump than may appear possible at first; only then the corresponding valve or rubber o-ring in the pump will yield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the first time you see this valve then maybe you just don't know that you need to open the valve by turning it counterclockwise (when it's pointing up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T18:05:54.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10793" CreationDate="2012-07-28T18:12:18.037" Score="5" ViewCount="5923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just curious to know what bike models and setups will be used by the competitors? Is there any data out there on the web?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2512" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T21:46:16.853" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T11:27:41.847" Title="What bikes will be used by the competitors in the Mountain Bike Olympics?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;racing-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10537" CreationDate="2012-07-28T18:20:08.037" Score="4" ViewCount="3015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see many mountain bike reviews and articles discuss the stiffness of frames, forks, wheels and other components.&#xA;Here are some questions which cross my mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the definition of stiffness?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you measure stiffness? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does stiffness affect riding experience and performance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2512" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T22:36:25.577" Title="How does stiffness affect experience and performance?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10534" CreationDate="2012-07-28T20:09:29.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the major favorites, you probably have some chance of finding the setups (not necessarily the most recent ones) at the Mountain Bike &gt; Tech section of &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingnews.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclingnews.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T20:09:29.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10535" CreationDate="2012-07-28T21:32:41.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiffness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wikipedia definition&quot;&gt;Wikipedia definition&lt;/a&gt; is pretty much applicable. Stiffness is how much things resist bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stiffness is measured by measuring how much stuff bends when lateral force is applied. So, in the example of frame stiffness, you could put one end of the frame in a vise, horizontally, then hang a known weight from the other end and measure how much it sags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because bending takes and dissipates energy, the stiffer stuff is, the less energy it robs from the rider. In general, you want everything in the system to be as stiff as possible, except the elements that are specifically designed to be flexible, like tires and shocks. Also, stiffer bikes (or any type of vehicle really) are more predictable in handling, because they have less degrees of freedom, are less prone to vibrations etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, the effect of stiffness is generally felt only by the performance oriented cyclists and is typically secondary to other considerations, like weight. For instance, for years MTB XC racing cyclists used the lightest forks possible like RockShox SID, even though they had the reputation of being &amp;quot;flexible like maccaroni&amp;quot; because weight trumped all else. Only in recent years, and especially in the road world where there is a fixed lower limit for bike weight in competition, manufacturers started to focus on stiffness as one of the main differentiating factors of their components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T21:40:56.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10535" CreationDate="2012-07-28T23:00:40.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stiffness is a frequent point of debate in cycling circles.  For instance, touring bikes tend to still be made of steel rather than aluminum, because (among other reasons), for equivalent strength, steel is more flexible, and will absorb road shock better.  A common complaint against early aluminum frames was that they were too stiff and rode too &quot;harshly&quot;.  (And note that a flexible frame does not &quot;dissipate&quot; energy to any significant degree -- steel has a very low damping factor, so the energy that goes into flexing the frame comes back out as &quot;bounce&quot; of a sort.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OTOH, stiffness is valued in the &quot;twisting&quot; mode of the bike.  A frame that is not stiff against twisting between front and rear wheels will be more likely to become unstable and vibrate at high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-07-28T23:00:40.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10542" CreationDate="2012-07-29T00:25:03.997" Score="8" ViewCount="40573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a new bicycle and I'm confused about the tire pressure.  The guy at the bicycle shop told me to inflate to at least 100psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the bicycle itself has the words '&lt;strong&gt;Maximum inflation - 65 PSI&lt;/strong&gt;'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bicycle is a Giant Escape.  I can't remember if they called it a commuter bicycle or a road cruiser (it doesn't have the drop style handlebars).  The tire itself is a '&lt;strong&gt;Giant S-X3, 700x32&lt;/strong&gt;' and it says '&lt;strong&gt;32-622&lt;/strong&gt;' &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rode the bicycle at 65 psi and, while I'm new, it felt kind of low to me.  I wasn't hitting the rim or anything extreme like that; I just prefer a stiffer ride - but I'm afraid to go past what the tire has printed on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what I should be inflating my tire to?  I'm ~175 pounds if that matters, most of the sites I've found on the topic give recommendations based on weight.  Still, I'm worried about damaging the tire or rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be doing 100% street riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3162" LastActivityDate="2019-11-24T14:13:00.623" Title="Unsure of Proper Tire Pressure" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;best-practice&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10540" CreationDate="2012-07-29T00:37:00.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with what is printed on the tires. Perhaps a bit more if you think the tires feel too squishy.  If you use too much pressure, it's not good for the tires.  It depends on the type of bike you are used to riding, but if you are used to riding a road bike, the 700x32 tires will feel squishier than what you're used to. But that's, ok.  It's a commuter bike, and this will make the ride a bit more comfortable in exchange for a little lost speed.  It sounds like the guy at the bike store doesn't know what he's talking about, as I've never seen a 700x32 tire that requires 100 psi.  Also a good rule of thumb is to try and look at the tires as you are riding.  If they don't deform much when riding on smooth pavement, they probably have enough pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-07-29T00:37:00.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10540" CreationDate="2012-07-29T09:12:23.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 major things to consider when deciding what PSI to run your tires are the rims and the tire itself. Most tires can handle higher tire pressure than what is printed on them but are &quot;guaranteed&quot; to handle the PSI printed on the sidewall. If you are buying quality tires, you have a better chance of pumping them higher with out blowing them out. Coming back to the rims, just because the tire can handle the PSI doesn't mean the rim can. I am going to assume you have aluminum rims, and unless they are POS, they should be able to handle higher pressure. I found that the tire's printed PSI is sometimes higher than the rim's capabilities when I used to ride nylon mag wheels back in the old days. I bought a 100psi rated tire and it kept blowing off the rim. That was when I decided to switch to spoked rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a good chance you will be able to ride at higher PSI, just be aware that there is no guarantee past the printed PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-29T09:12:23.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-29T18:25:10.093" Score="4" ViewCount="12016" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/13057#13057&quot;&gt;MTB&lt;/a&gt; that I have been riding in the city for many years. As such, slick tires suit me well and I have been using a set of 26x1.25 tires for the last 3-5 years but they are starting to show their age, especially after I got caught in the rain last week and the water cleaned off all the dirt and dust. I noticed a number of small punctures that looked like they were stretching out as well as what I can only describe as spider veins (though not cracked)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason, 26&quot; slick tires in widths less than 1.5 are harder and harder to find locally nowadays. I saw one tire listed online as 26x1.0 / 650x23. Are these size equivalent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T16:52:56.263" Title="Will a 650x23 tire fit on my 26&quot; rim?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-29T20:30:16.260" Score="3" ViewCount="2809" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which is better, single speed or three speed? I am 45 and buying an adult trike because I never learned to ride a bike when I was younger.  I don't know if I get a single speed or three speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4654" LastActivityDate="2019-10-11T18:38:30.630" Title="Which is better, single speed or three speed?" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10544" CreationDate="2012-07-30T04:04:24.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of your interest, age and desire to ride a trike, I would recommend a 3 speed. Trikes are very heavy and if you are new to biking you may need an easier gear than what a single speed will offer stock on most trikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T04:04:24.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10473" CreationDate="2012-07-30T04:41:23.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barometric pressure is usually accurate to less than 5 meters with even a cheap sensor, provided it is calibrated on the day (A fast changing weather system can trow it out however) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GPS altitude is very inaccurate due to the very nature of GPS. Think about the earth, the GPS satellites in orbit, you and the ground The only GPS satellites you can &quot;see&quot; are those above you. To get accurate altitude, you would need to have a satellite below you - which there are - that you can &quot;see&quot; - which you cannot. Therefore it is easy to get accurate lat/long, and hard (nearly impossible)  to get accurate altitude. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to get altitude from GPS (the kind that is useful to  a cyclist), is to augment the data from either Barometric source, or location based. Unfortunately the altitude profile data is not accurate enough for most cycling applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I have not used a Nexus, I rely on a Garmin with barometer when in the mountains - My guess is there is no way a GPS based altitude will be more accurate than barometer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T04:41:23.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10531" CreationDate="2012-07-30T06:52:52.383" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Qualification&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question is missing specifics such as hill grade, but let's assume you are talking about steeper grades where it is relatively easy to hit speeds above 40 mph.  Second you didn't mention environmental conditions (such as cross-winds) as some positions become rather dangerous if you are hit by a cross-wind or are descending a rough road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Focusing on Body Position&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While equipment has an effect, your single biggest gains will be improvements in your position on the bike.  However please note that some of the more aerodynamic positions also unbalance the bike making it more unstable, increasing the probability of a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reasonably safe and efficient position is to keep your weight back and get your your body into a wedge position (see image below). By getting down far enough the wind should hit your back rather than your chest, preventing your chest from acting like an air scoop.  Also notice that the hands are brought in as close as possible to reduce drag generated by the arms.  You should also bring your legs in as close to the frame as possible. Your goal is to present as little profile as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUVll.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/beginners/bike-skills/descend-rocket&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicycling&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can further tweak this position by bringing your body further forward and your face closer to the handle bars.  This reduces the gap between your handlebars and your face/head reducing turbulence and shielding more of your lower body from the wind. In this case the rider has his hands on the drops as he is also navigating turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fsFch.png&quot; alt=&quot;slightly more aggressive&quot;&gt; &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kZSzB4kEE8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;youtube&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More Unstable/Dangerous Derivatives&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to get into even more aerodynamic positions.  The fastest position I have found is taking the position found in the first or second image and getting your head and body &lt;em&gt;in front&lt;/em&gt; of the handle bars and tucking in all your extremities in the remaining spaces (the rider below is partly doing this).  In the most extreme case your face should be an inch off your front wheel and your chest &lt;em&gt;on&lt;/em&gt; your handle bars (not shown).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4LnCT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DISCLAIMER&lt;/strong&gt; - In such an aggressive position, you cannot see properly and if you hit any sizeable bump or are caught by a cross-wind you &lt;em&gt;WILL CRASH&lt;/em&gt;.  That said it is also very fast and can be dangerously addictive. I have found I could gain an additional 10-15 km/hr over more safer positions, but only typically do it for short stretches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T06:52:52.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-30T07:28:34.097" Score="3" ViewCount="1468" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I tried to unscrew the left pedal of a bicycle by turning it counter-clockwise with a spanner lengthened with a piece of pipe. The net result is the spanner broke apart and the pedal is still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes me wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that just threaded joint or is there something else besides threading? Is the threading left-handed or right handed? Do I need anything else except what I would normally use to unscrew a threaded joint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T17:40:58.677" Title="How exactly are pedals attached to crank arms?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9103" CreationDate="2012-07-30T13:00:09.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On long rides, you have to manage your pace, your eating, and your morale. It's possible to ride shorter distances (say, up to 150 km) without paying very much attention to these, so it can come as a shock when you try to extend the distance and find yourself struggling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pace&lt;/strong&gt;: digesting food takes energy, so if your riding intensity is too high then there won't be enough energy left over, and your digestion will shut down. This can turn into a vicious circle, where your digestion isn't working, so you're not getting much energy out of the food you are eating, so you get tireder, and so there's even less energy for your digestion. So cut down the riding intensity on longer rides, especially after eating. When you are comfortable with the distance, you can work on your speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eating&lt;/strong&gt;: carbohydrates and sugars place a lower burden on your digestion than fats and proteins and deliver energy quicker. You have to discover by experiment what kind of food works for you. There are different traditions in different countries: in the UK cyclists eat baked beans on toast; in Italy it's rice and peas (&lt;em&gt;risi e bisi&lt;/em&gt;). Bananas and oats work for many. (You can buy specialized sports nutrition, but it gives you more flexibility for long tours if you can figure out a way to &quot;live off the land&quot; by buying ordinary food in shops and restaurants.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Morale&lt;/strong&gt;: this is just as important as the other factors, but often overlooked. When you're short on physical energy your mental condition worsens too, and this is when you start thinking, &quot;I'm not enjoying this ride, why don't I quit and take the train home?&quot; You have to learn to manage your mood in the way you manage all the other aspects of your riding. Riding with other cyclists and looking after each other is the best approach, but if you're on your own then you should learn to recognise that your morale is sinking and try to figure out what to do about it. Do you need to eat or drink? Are you bored with this road and need to vary the route? Are you too cold or too hot and need to change clothing? Are your hands and feet and arse hurting and you need to vary your position on the bike? Do you need to stop at the next café and get some coffee and cake? There's usually something you can do to make the ride more enjoyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find &lt;a href=&quot;http://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=21053.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this cycling forum thread&lt;/a&gt; interesting: it's about the &#xA;psychological aspects of abandoning (&quot;packing&quot;) a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="756" LastEditorUserId="756" LastEditDate="2012-07-30T19:43:39.440" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T19:43:39.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10549" CreationDate="2012-07-30T13:25:42.070" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Daniel Hicks says, they are threaded opposite to each other. This ensures the act of you pedaling is constantly tightening them both. If they were both the usual right hand threads then the left pedal would eventually unscrew and fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you're like me and use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right_hand_rule&quot;&gt;right hand rule&lt;/a&gt; to constantly assess which direction you should be turning things to make them move in the direction you want, you'll now need to switch to the &quot;left hand rule&quot; for the left hand pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4574" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T13:25:42.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10534" CreationDate="2012-07-30T15:06:42.757" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a test event on the Hadleigh Farm Mountain Bike course which will be used for the 2012 Olympics. There are various photos and videos of the event which show the bikes being ridden:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hadleigh%20farm%20test%20event&amp;amp;oq=hadleigh%20farm%20test%20event&quot;&gt;Videos on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/gallery/2011/aug/01/london-2012-olympic-games-mountain-biking&quot;&gt;Photos from The Guardian&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caitelliott.co.uk/gallery/index.php?fID=33&amp;amp;Olympic%20test%20Event,%20Essex,%20London&quot;&gt;Photos from Cait Elliott&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From looking at these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone seemed to be using carbon fibre frames&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most riders used a hard-tailed bike, although some had full suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There was a mix of wheel sizes (I assume 26 and 29 inch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make out manufacturers names on many of the bikes and in some cases on individual components if you're particularly interested in those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; - a few things I picked up from the commentary on the 2 races:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the men's race there were 3 different sizes of wheel in use - 26, 27.5 and 29 inches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of the riders opted for a single chainring, with the rest using 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspension travel was around 100mm with the suspension set hard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyre choice was small lugs to give better grip on the rocky sections.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least one rider was using a &quot;lefty&quot; fork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some riders were carrying gas canisters to deal with punctures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike weight was around 19 pounds (8.6 kg).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2012-08-12T15:46:32.620" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T15:46:32.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10549" CreationDate="2012-07-30T15:31:17.483" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;About &quot;just threaded&quot; vs &quot;something else&quot;, the answer is: they are just threaded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible problem, though, is rust or other chemical bonding, which might make significantly difficult to take the pedal off with raw force (a friend of mine recently broke a spanner, even applying the force in the correct direction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the right vs. left rule, if you attach the spanner with the handle pointing upwards, you have to pull the handle to the back of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-07-30T16:08:48.517" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T16:08:48.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10535" CreationDate="2012-07-30T19:01:40.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allow my rather anecdotal answer, as for the third point in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to ride a stock Trek VRX 400, did XC riding along with some jumps and drops. I was 18-22 years and I think my weight was around 120 lb. At that age the bike felt perfect, I loved that bike, I felt the bike very responsive, and each time I wanted to learn some new move, I felt no &quot;resistance&quot; from the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some time later, My VRX broke, so I acquired a Diamondback X2 (this is a 1999 model, I bought the frame in 2007, I think...). For some reason I also inherited another VRX (Trek VRX 200). So now I had two bikes. I used to ride both in the same trials and trying the same stunts. The X2 had very lower end components compared to the VRX yet I liked it much much better, I'll tell you why...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By that time I was 24, (I'm 28 at the time of writing) and my average weight had raised to 160 Lb. (Today it's 175). I had a little more strength  by then, I used to try to measure it pressing a scale against a wall with my legs...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the bike comparison:&#xA;The VRX is noticeably lighter than the X2.&#xA;The VRX is a lot more flexible. With just sitting on the bike, and applying a litle force to the right pedal I could see the hole bottom bracket part go to the left, It was evident, I mean, you could literally see the frame twisting.&#xA;Both bikes had the same crankset sizes, but the VRX had a 11-32 cassette, the one in the X2 was 11-34.&#xA;The two bikes had some components that where the same, as I used salvaged parts from my broken VRX to assemble the X2. Had the same shifters, same rear derailleur, pedals, and tires. However, the X2 had V-brakes, and lower end hubs and rims. The inherited VRX came with disk brakes, bontrager rims, a bontrager front hub and a DT Swiss rear hub. Both bikes where ridden with WTB Velociraptor front tires @40psi. The VRX had a Velociraptor Rear (specific) tire at 40psi. The X2 started with a generic tire and was later upgraded to a WTB Prowler XT. both @40 psi. The X2 was initially assembled with the Manitou XVert-t2 fork from the broken VRX400 and was later updated with a RockShox Tora 302, While the VRX200 was rode with a Manitou Xvert DC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While riding, the X2 had far better acceleration and climbing. This was not because of the cassette, because I shifted to higher gears in the X2. For example, a hill I climbed using 2-2 (2nd front gear, 2nd rear) in the VRX, has easy for me in 2-4 or even 2-5 with the X2. With the X2 I was even faster than a friend who rides a Trek Y 26 superlite (Carbon), the same guy beated me up if I rode the VRX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I the descents I quickly became more agile with the X2, mainly because of two aspects. The perceived stiffness of the X2 frame made me feel the bike had a faster response to my input, I also got a much better feel of the ground through the bike. For example, with the X2 I was able to tell exactly when a tire was about to skid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I became so confident using the X2, that I started Downhill Racing with it, something I felt very reluctant to do with the VRX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about a year of riding both bikes, the VRX had turned into my backup bike, used only when the X2 was on the repair bench or once in a while to avoid rust...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize, the Stiffness in my X2 made feel much more confidence, and provided me way better &quot;communication&quot; to and from the bike, much faster response and terrain feedback. I could tell exactly where the tires were passing. This developed into much more maneuverability, despite the X2 having a slightly longer wheelbase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The VRX, although had a light feel, is simply inefficient, I was never able to ride the same slopes with the same times. It made me feel tired more quickly, and had a dorky sensation along rocky ascents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion: the stiffer frame outperformed the other enough to compensate for being heavier, and as a whole bike, it also compensated the lower quality components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T19:01:40.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-30T21:33:48.930" Score="3" ViewCount="2972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that the severity of injuries tend to decrease while riding a road bike at high speed. An instance of high speed would be like those in the Tour de France.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasoning behind this idea is &quot;enough&quot; speed allows the cyclist to &quot;roll&quot; upon landing thus decreasing the chance of breaking bones for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems contrary to my basic knowledge of physics and momentum, so, is it true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4658" LastEditorUserId="3047" LastEditDate="2012-07-31T23:37:14.367" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T22:31:34.157" Title="Do higher speed crashes result in less serious injuries. " Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10555" CreationDate="2012-07-30T22:12:07.960" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bmj-injuryprev.highwire.org/content/3/2/110.full.pdf&quot;&gt;Epidemiology of bicycle injuries and risk factors for serious injury&lt;/a&gt;&quot; by Frederick P Rivara, Diane C Thompson, and Robert S Thompson, the authors gave a questionnaire to 3,390 bicycle riders who had attended a hospital emergency department in the Seattle area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They found that cyclists involved in a crash at a speed greater than 15 miles per hour were 1.4 times as likely to have a &quot;severe&quot; injury (defined as an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injury_Severity_Score&quot;&gt;injury severity score&lt;/a&gt; greater than 8) as cyclists involved in a crash at a speed of 15 miles per hour or less. The 95% confidence interval was 1.0 to 1.9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Caveats: 1. It seems strange to me that the authors only reported odds ratios, when they apparently had the data to compute effect sizes too. 2. The fast cyclists differ systematically from the slower cyclists: the odds ratio fell to 1.2 when other factors in the study were controlled for. 3. It's Rivara, Thompson and Thompson.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="756" LastEditorUserId="756" LastEditDate="2012-07-31T09:36:45.720" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T09:36:45.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10535" CreationDate="2012-07-30T22:36:25.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stiffness is important when you have long tubes as in a tandem or elongated recumbent and your frame is made of a flexible material like steel.  The frame can flex, especially with the pedalling of a strong or heavy rider which can lead to metal fatigue over time and can be disconcerting to the captain.  For upright singles it's a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T22:36:25.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10555" CreationDate="2012-07-31T04:19:01.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there is likely no clear answer. The points go both ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes at speed there is the ability to roll. But also the risk of trauma with a stationary object. Be it an object or the ground. Humans are soft and squishy with fragile bones compared to concrete and asphalt, rocks or trees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T04:19:01.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-31T04:39:15.953" Score="1" ViewCount="4011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want replacement tires for this bike.  I believe they are 29&quot; x 2.125.   Can I buy tires that are more narrow for the same rim/wheel?  2&quot; 1.75?   Also,  Is it possible/practical to swap the wheels for 26&quot; wheels?  One last question,  since I'm new to this,  is 29&quot; tires the same as 700cc?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4661" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T13:55:54.783" Title="Genesis Onyx 29&quot; New tires? New wheels?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10559" CreationDate="2012-07-31T06:22:19.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, switching to a slightly less wide tire should not cause any problems, unless the tires are much too narrow for the rims. Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire Sizing page&lt;/a&gt; (under Width Considerations), suggests that if the tires are much too narrow, this can cause pinch flats and rim damage. If you're just going down a few sizes, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching to 26&quot; wheels is impractical. The brakes wouldn't line up with the rims, and I don't know how you could fix this. Maybe someone else will have a suggestion, but my hunch is that if it's even possible at all, switching to smaller wheels could easily cost more than the bike is worth, especially for a bike in this price range (about $150?). Do you have any particular reason that you would want smaller diameter wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, 29&quot; tires are the same diameter as 700c (also mentioned on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire Sizing page&lt;/a&gt;). However, make sure not to use tires that are really narrow relative to the rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T06:22:19.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10555" CreationDate="2012-07-31T07:10:00.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is totally dependent on the impact. If you run into a wall you want to be going slower. If you hit a bump and are launched off your bike or jump off a cliff you want to be going faster. I don't know physics well enough to explain it that way but I do ride a lot of street (jumping down stairs, off roofs, etc.) so I will explain it how I know you want to land in that sense. Think about the angle of impact jumping off a loading dock, if you drop going at a slow speed you will impact the ground almost at a 90 degree angle, your body will need to absorb almost all the impact (on a non-suspension bike). If you go faster you will impact the ground at say 45 degrees, you will feel a lot less impact on your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking that to the tour de france (or crashing in general, even on a jump), if you roll rather than slide, your impact on the ground will be a lot less at higher speeds, your chance of twisting a leg or whatever is less because your limb doesn't have time to get planted. It might help to watch some parkour, they will roll out of a jump because they are trying to transfer the impact at an angle against the ground rather than absorbing an impact perpendicular to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T07:10:00.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-31T09:54:17.773" Score="-5" ViewCount="14974" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in purchasing my first road bike. &#xA;Specifically the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radon-bikes.de/xist4c/web/R1-4-0_id_20685_.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Radon R1 4.0&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radon-bikes.de/xist4c/web/RPS_id_20683_.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Radon RPS&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Does anyone have any experience wit these bikes? There are a few tests on-line but unfortunately I don’t speak German and the Google translate function wasn’t much help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being my first road bike I don’t want anything too uncomfortable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m approx. 170cm short with a 77 cm inseam. I’ve tried a couple of bikes and seem to fit a 53-54cm effective top tube. I was thinking of going for the 53cm frame.&#xA;I would really appreciate any help or advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4663" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-07-31T15:05:01.583" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T04:56:07.920" Title="Radon bikes - has anyone heard of them?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-12-28T19:53:19.507" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10555" CreationDate="2012-07-31T11:59:59.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, in any vehicle, there is a direct relationship between speed and severity, statistically speaking, with &quot;lots&quot; of studies showing that. This also applies to being hit, or front-to-front crashes. There's even the term &quot;high-energy-trauma&quot;, applied by health professionals to injuries involving high energies, for example high kinetic energies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are confounding factors: are fast riders (professional riders?) more skilled? Are fast racing events the place for a more &quot;focused&quot; riding? Do they fall less, or are someow more prepared to fall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I cannot see how a SLOWER fall could hurt MORE than a fast one. It's a matter of kinetic energy, speed of response of human motor coordination, even common sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I have not evidence to bring about, I hope this helps someway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T11:59:59.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-31T16:10:17.390" Score="16" ViewCount="42830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a bike in indoor storage (my garage) for over 10 years. I'd like to get it back into good condition to use for my commute to/from work each day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What things should I check/replace before I trust it to safely and reliably work on the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4667" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T12:01:23.087" Title="I've had a bike in storage for over 10 years. What maintenance does it need?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10565" CreationDate="2012-07-31T16:34:25.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should probably take it to your local bike shop. An experienced eye will be more helpful that advice from the internet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By descending importance, my suggestions are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Examine the frame for cracks (very bad, but unlikely to be a problem) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check that the tires aren't cracking or rotted. Inflate them to the&#xA;pressure recommended on the side of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the brakes work! If they squeal, it's time to adjust them or possibly replace the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the seat is at a comfortable height.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the chain for tension (it shouldn't sag) and lubricate it with chain lube&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check that the wheels are true (the LBS can true them for you)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T16:34:25.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-31T16:40:39.553" Score="8" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend wants to learn to ride, and I've got a road bike that fits him reasonably. He's willing to buy a helmet, but not a trike or anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan was to put the seat low and have him try riding on grass, so falls are less of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other exercises would help him get going?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1682" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T01:47:50.890" Title="Teaching an adult to ride" Tags="&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10567" CreationDate="2012-07-31T17:07:03.210" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's silly, but with the saddle down so that he is able to push himself forward with the feet, ask him to pretend he's running on low gravity, trying to go as far as possible between steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On doing this, he can/could/should lean the bike a bit left when he puts left foot on ground, and lean the bike right when right foot is down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;secret&quot; is trying to find and maintain the &quot;sweet spot&quot; when the bike is perfectly upright, and at this spot learn to manage the handlebar to keep balance, while the legs would probably be a bit spread and close to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be done on a flat, smooth surface, so the bike could keep going even at low speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides that, I think braking should be learned BEFORE pedalling, so the next step would be to stop the bike, then just reduce speed, and THEN pedal with no foot on ground anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never tried this, but I think it's how I'd like to be taught if that were the case :o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T17:07:03.210" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10562" CreationDate="2012-07-31T18:05:10.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to know if a bike is suited for your needs is to get on it yourself. Almost any bike can be adjusted to fit an average adult (170 is still &quot;average&quot;) so the physical fit isn't my concern. Since this is your first road bike, I would strongly suggest getting on one before buying it anywhere, online or in a real bike shop. There are things like headtube angles, toptube height and other things that become a factor that simply reading the description will not help you decide if it is right for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought 3 or 4 bikes before I started ordering online, and that was only because the shop I frequented did not carry the bike I needed. And I only decided I needed that particular bike after I had been riding for 10 years, tested my friend's bikes, read tons of reviews and saw that this bike was the one I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T18:05:10.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10565" CreationDate="2012-07-31T18:43:29.133" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your local bike store (LBS) can be an expensive solution in search of problems, if you follow my meaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me clarify: a few years ago I bought a mid-1980's vintage mountain bike which I intended to use for basically the same purpose the OP described. It cost me $20 at a garage sale. It had been a few years since I had been on a bike, so though I once knew how to change a tire, etc., I had long since forgotten. I don't know why, but it never really occurred to me to look on YouTube, ask on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php/10-Bicycle-Mechanics&quot;&gt;Bikeforums&lt;/a&gt;, and so forth. Long story short, my LBS charged me nearly $250 for a bunch of easy stuff I could have/should have done for myself: new tires, new tubes, new brake shoes, a little lubrication. In hindsight, it was my fault; basically I approached this like an idiot with an open wallet. It would have been worse, but I stopped them from doing a bunch of other stuff which was unnecessary and even more expensive (changing cables, new freewheel, blah blah blah). I still have that bike, and nearly 1500 miles later, I have a clearer understanding of what it needs and does not need. It didn't need all the expensive stuff they told me it needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to commute on this bike, you will need to remember/relearn a few things: changing tubes/tires, lubrication, cleaning, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while I agree the folks at the LBS &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; be a great resource, it's not always true. Before you go throwing money at this, do your homework a little. Post some pictures of the bike, either here or at Bikeforums, and include some closeups of drivetrain components: front and rear derailleurs, brakes, chain, rear cassette/freewheel, tires, and so forth. Include some specifications: are you the original owner? How many miles on the bike? etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where are you located? Are there any bike &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_cooperative&quot;&gt;co-ops&lt;/a&gt; around you? Here in SoCal, there are many. They are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/577108-List-of-bike-co-ops-collectives-and-bike-kitchens&quot;&gt;not hard to find&lt;/a&gt;. I took my vintage mountain bike to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebicycletree.org/&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; and for $20 got some really good help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, some bikes probably require the extensive (and expensive) servicing mentioned by other responders. But I have a few bikes I've gotten used and I've put some miles on them, and in every case but one, the only things I did were new tires, new tubes, a little lubrication, new seat, new brake pads/shoes, and some cleaning. For the record, my vintage mountain bike (1986) is still running on the original grease in the hubs and bottom bracket, but it was evidently not ridden much by the prior owner(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T20:25:08.177" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T20:25:08.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10565" CreationDate="2012-07-31T19:20:31.143" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike was in decent shape when put away, and has not been exposed to the weather, there's probably very little that needs to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires would be the biggie -- likely they're checked and may need replacement (though not for certain).  Inflate them to listed pressure and check the sidewalls for cracks or bulges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming rim brakes, the brake pads may very well be hard and in need of replacing.  But you can't tell for sure until you try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, wipe off the dust, inspect for rust, and put a bit of oil on the chain.  Check that the wheels spin freely, with no play in the bearings, and that the steering tube likewise moves freely with no play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give it a test ride.  Make sure the brakes work OK and that the wheels don't rub as they turn.  Try a few corners to make sure there are no odd handling issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shifters likely will be balky at first -- run them through their paces a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if the tires are sound and the steering is good and the brakes are good and there's no massive rust anywhere, there are likely no major safety issues.  Dependability then becomes your concern, since you will be commuting, and there it's mainly the condition of the tires and how well the shifters work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I did miss mentioning cable housings.  The cables should be given a shot of spray lube down the housing tubes.  This is often all that's needed to turn a balky bike into a smoothly shifting/braking one.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-07-31T21:14:38.133" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T21:14:38.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10562" CreationDate="2012-07-31T20:37:00.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Radon uses many identical parts (e.g. frame) licensed from &lt;a href=&quot;http://cube.eu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CUBE&lt;/a&gt; but they sell them at lower prices. In the best case you get a high class bike at reasonable prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4669" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T20:37:00.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10534" CreationDate="2012-07-31T20:56:22.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read on &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/josehermida&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;José Antonio Hermida's twitter account&lt;/a&gt; that the olympic course is clearly for a 29er. He posted some pictures preparing his Merida Big.Nine Carbon Team. This is a 29er hardtail. He was also mounting Sram's new XX1 gears which comprises a single chainring with a 11 gear cassette. This or 2x10 will be most used gears. Also, most riders will use their team's brand 29er, 26er or Scott's 650b (27.5 aprox.) mostly carbon hardtails with a few full suspension. This would include: Merida Big.Nine, Orbea Alma, Specialized Stumjumper, Specialized Epic, Cannondale Flash, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T20:56:22.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10562" CreationDate="2012-08-01T02:25:35.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Radon is a well reputed German bike company. They sell their bikes through it's online store, but you can by them at a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike-discount.de/inhalt/contact_shop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;store in Bonn&lt;/a&gt;, too. At the shop you can ride a bike for testing it. At the store you can buy many bike parts and clothes, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They typically get very high ratings in tests, it is not a cheapo company, they sell good quality and their bikes are well balanced, i.e. not a few high end components in visible places and the rest junk. The downside is that it is not easy to test their bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I wouldn't buy a bike through an online store if I didn't know the bike was a perfect fit for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4441" LastEditorUserId="4666" LastEditDate="2012-08-01T13:02:21.450" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T13:02:21.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-01T04:02:57.013" Score="3" ViewCount="4747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding my road bike and my pedals locked up and I couldn't spin anymore. I got off the bike to check the gears and chains and while fiddling with them I heard a loud POP and my rear tire popped and kind of tacoed the bike rim. Why did this happen? What did I do and what can I do to prevent this from happening again? I am new to road biking and I absolutely LOVE it!! I just want to learn more so I can no have the fear of going farther away from my house than I can run home! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4672" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T13:00:49.293" Title="My Road bike pedals locked up tonight. Why?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-01T06:09:09.420" Score="2" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just &quot;inherited&quot; a bike that has no rear derailleur or chain.  It also looks like the cassette is pretty worn, so I'm thinking about replacing that too.  I've looked around on the forum and I think I'm on the right track, but I'd love to hear from someone who knows what they're talking about (I don't).  Here are the specs...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front chain ring - RaceFace 22-32-42&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Derailleur - shimano XTR (at least 10 years old)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters - Shimano xtr (also old)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Current rear cassette - Shimano hyperglide - 12-32 8 speed - worn and looks ready to be replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here what I'd like to buy. I chose it mostly because it's inexpensive.  I'm trying to do this for under $100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano HG 51 cassette 11-32T&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano CN HG50 Chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano Alivio RD-M410&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read on the forum that the chain and cassette are compatible - I just want to make sure that all these bits and pieces work with the other parts on my bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4673" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-08-02T18:19:39.430" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T18:19:39.430" Title="Need help choosing compatible rear derailleur, cassette &amp; chain" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10575" CreationDate="2012-08-01T12:08:19.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You almost certainly broke a spoke. Broken spokes are rare on a bike in good condition, but they do happen randomly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should carry a spoke wrench so that, in case of a broken spoke, you can loosen the spokes on the opposite side to allow the wheel to turn and get you home.  Also, loosening the brake on that wheel (as if you were going to remove the wheel) provides more clearance for a wobbly wheel (though of course it seriously reduces your braking ability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(But be aware that exotic wheels with fewer than, say, 20 spokes will taco so badly when one breaks that you'll not be able to correct it with a spoke wrench and/or by loosening the brake.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T12:08:19.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10575" CreationDate="2012-08-01T12:12:08.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;my rear tire popped and kind of tacoed the bike rim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the rim sidewall failed (this does wear down eventually, if you're using rim brakes); if sufficiently weakened, the inner tube pressure will buckle the rim outwards, until decompression (or a sharp edge) bursts the tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or, the rim was distorted because of a broken spoke (when a spoke breaks, uneven tension pulls the rim out of true), and either:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the spoke caught in the chain or rear derailleur,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or the rim distorted enough to foul the rim brakes; if the brake ended up touching the tyre sidewall instead of the braking surface, this would be sufficient to damage the sidewall and again explain the tube exploding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T12:12:08.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10575" CreationDate="2012-08-01T13:00:49.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you didn't notice any broken spokes, it could have also been that the bead of the tire popped off the rim and caught on the brakes, preventing the wheel from moving and then ultimately dragging on the ground causing a blowout and maybe warping the rim.  Once the tube popped, it would no longer be pushing the tire in to the brakes and allowing your wheel to spin freely again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T13:00:49.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10576" CreationDate="2012-08-01T13:20:50.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything there looks like it should work together all right. If you are replacing the drive train components here, you may want to get new cabling for the shifters as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any 6/7/8 speed chain should be fine on this setup. The cassettes also seem equivalent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd worry about the condition of the old shifters due to the age, they should be compatible though. However, Alivio rapid fire shifters can be had relatively cheap you need to replace them if anything is wrong with the old shifters.  The original XTR stuff was definitively higher quality when new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-08-01T15:35:02.760" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T15:35:02.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10543" CreationDate="2012-08-01T13:38:54.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you will need a 26&quot; tyre.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;650b is equivalent to roughtly 27.5&quot; wheel, and is meant to be a compromise between a 26&quot; and 29&quot; wheel, and has been long used by road bikes but is now coming in for XC mountain bikes as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4484" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T13:38:54.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10549" CreationDate="2012-08-01T17:40:58.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pedals are threaded as said above, but over time the pedal may become stuck, especially when the pedal is made of steel and the crank is made of aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before trying to unscrew it, you should spray some degreasant here, like WD-40. Wait for a couple of minutes and then try to unscrew. You should also use a proper pedal wrench instead of a standard wrench (easier and more force is applied). If it doesn't work, spray more degreasant, wait more, and try again. Sometimes spraying degreasant and waiting a whole day (or night) is sufficient to unscrew it, sometimes it just doesn't move, and my advice would be to just change the crank and the pedal, or else you might end by hurting yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the recipe I used for many old bikes, and it usually works but sometimes, even if the bike isn't rusted, there's no other option than to dispose of the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4676" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T17:40:58.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10517" CreationDate="2012-08-01T20:54:26.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's never a good idea to rely on the saddle for padding. The reason is simple. The sit-bones will sink into the softest saddle and therefore put extra pressure on other parts of the male anatomy where you end up feeling as if your 'privates' dropped off on the road a few miles back. You should also be 'fitted' for a seat so that you get the right width of saddle which suites you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4677" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T20:54:26.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10565" CreationDate="2012-08-02T12:12:19.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think if you have to &lt;em&gt;ask&lt;/em&gt; what your bike needs to become roadworthy, it is probably a good idea to take it to a shop of some kind. Doing things like re-lubing (or re-packing) all bearings, cables, replacing brake pads, adjusting stuff, etc... all adds up to a lot of work. If you haven't done it before it will take a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; time, require tools, and you'll end up with less than optimal results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may not be obvious is that there are different kinds of bike shops. The ones that cater to enthusiasts (for lack of a better word) will tend to be more expensive and will push for pricey components and service charges. If you have a bike that is &quot;worth it&quot;, you probably already know how to service it yourself or don't mind paying what it costs for a mechanic to fuss over it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other bike shops, especially in big cities, that focus on commuters and used bikes. They have lower prices for everything and understand the point of view of somebody that wants to &quot;bring back&quot; a garage bike from a decade of idleness vs someone that wants to race in a weekly criterium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what it &quot;should&quot; cost...&#xA;something like US$ 50-80 for tune-up labor + 50-100 for tires and inner tubes (depending on quality) + replacement for things that are worn or rusted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good resource for parts for an old bike is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loosescrews.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;loosescrews&lt;/a&gt;. If you want to do-it-yourself that is a good source, or you can just use it to make sure that you're not paying $100+ for a $10 dollar part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T12:12:19.127" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10604" CreationDate="2012-08-02T16:44:02.880" Score="6" ViewCount="15183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike that I rather like, but it's geared entirely for high-speed road bike type work.  It's fantastic on the flat areas of the route that I take every day, but I also have a couple of serious hills that I cannot climb with this one (I can climb them with a different bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm looking at the possibility of saving money to replace the entire bike, or to regear it.  An option that I saw today was something like the Shimano Alfine 11-speed hubs.  I've not calculated gear ratios, but it's claimed that they have a very wide range and such a thing would benefit me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I wanted to retrofit my bike to an internally geared hub, what is involved (and what are the terms I'm looking for)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size of axle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;distance across the rear fork?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what to do with no-longer-used rear derailleur?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will my existing grip-shifter need to be replaced, and does that entail anything other than just putting the new one on and attaching the wires?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will my entire rear wheel need to be replaced?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty vague on what industry terminology would be used in this case.  I'm also trying to evaluate the viability of even doing this as I balance my options for adjusting or replacing the bike to better fit the city I live in.  The only adjustment I haven't mentioned is for me to replace the front chainring (there's only one on this bike) with something a little smaller.  I'd lose level-ground power but gain some climbing power.  And that, really, might be the least expensive and easiest of all of my options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3913" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T02:19:22.817" Title="What do I need to research to switch to an internally geared hub?" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10593" CreationDate="2012-08-02T18:01:11.723" Score="9" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just been watching the women's team sprint finals, and sawsaw China lose the final race due to a rule infringement. Earlier the Great British team were disqualified for the same reason. There is a set region that one rider has to peel off and let the other pass through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the commentators' best efforts I still don't understand where this region is marked on the course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I don't understand why there is such a rule at all. The lead rider allows the second rider to draft for the start of the race, so they want to stay in the race as long as they can, but they wouldn't want to stay in until the end. Is there a reason for a fixed change-over zone (e.g.safety), or is it just a rule that's always been part of the sport?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="517" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T21:48:21.323" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T10:36:50.513" Title="Change-over rules for women's team sprint" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10602" CreationDate="2012-08-02T18:42:00.597" Score="2" ViewCount="15591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/eQCxC.jpg?1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2012 Epic comp 29&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and am super excited to start hitting the trails, back country, camping, etc., but I'm starting to think I should have bought a bike with more mm of travel.  I've been doing a lot of reading up on the sport while also checking out videos and stuff, and I noticed that a lot of riders go with a Specialized &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/camber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Camber&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/enduro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Enduro&lt;/a&gt; for the &quot;do everything&quot; type of bike, so my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is 100mm of travel enough for a do everything kind of bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;also, say down the road, can I change my shocks to have a higher mm of travel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to MTB and was curious if I made the right choice with the Epic, as my fears are that I will do a some jumps, etc and not have enough travel, thus damaging my bike.  Any feedback is greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: not sure if my weight is a factor, but i'm about 160lbs, 5'7&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastEditorUserId="499" LastEditDate="2012-08-02T20:05:18.010" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T16:14:23.770" Title="Did I buy the wrong mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10610" CreationDate="2012-08-02T18:52:30.423" Score="1" ViewCount="644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new, cheap and maybe nasty fixed gear bike. They were only in sizes 54cm and 56cm, so I had to go for 56cm, even though my road bike is 61cm and I'm 186cm. My first few skidding attempts today failed miserably, because I could not get my weight on the front wheel. I now removed all spacers and lifted my saddle a few inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I learn to skid if my front leg is below the steering bar when trying to lock my legs? How can I get my legs fixed to resist the pedal power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should my front knee be located?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-08-04T22:43:11.950" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T22:43:11.950" Title="Skid on small frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;skills&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10587" CreationDate="2012-08-02T19:30:09.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&#xA;The part of the international cycling union regulations about women's team sprint states that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it is a race of 2 laps with 2 riders.  Each rider must complete one&#xA;  lap each.  The leading rider shall lead the first lap and move towards&#xA;  the outside of the track and the second rider shall complete the&#xA;  second lap on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A team shall be relegated to the last place if any of the following infringements occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a rider draws away by more than 15 metres before the end of the lap that she is to lead or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if a rider does not draw away by more than 15 metres after the end of the lap that she was supposed to lead or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if one rider pushes another.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Olympic race the wheels crossed within this 30 metre window so it was deemed that one of the riders (both GB and China) did not complete a whole lap.  It is the rule that each rider complete one lap almost exactly down to 30 metres.  Surprised it doesn't happen more often at the speed they are going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4682" LastEditorUserId="4574" LastEditDate="2012-08-02T21:20:53.787" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T21:20:53.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10588" CreationDate="2012-08-02T19:58:28.297" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hard tail 29er (Motobecane from bikes direct) with 100mm of travel and do ride everything from cross country trails with friends to downhill trails with my son. I put narrower tires on for a long 50 mile fireroad type of ride (tons of fun) I did last month and wider tires for when it gets really wet in the pacific northwest (most of the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I agree with Daniel, there really isn't a 'do everything' bicycle, but with 100mm of travel your ride will be plenty comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't know. I'm sure people have put higher travel forks on bikes and ran them fine. The frame was designed to run with 100mm of travel, increasing the travel more than 10% might not ride well with the angles and dimensions of the frame/headset.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With proper air in the fork it will be hard to bottom it out. I have that same fork on my bike and hit the smaller jumps on the downhill trails and it does just fine. I don't have the guts to hit the really big jumps my son hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you made a great choice with the Epic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T19:58:28.297" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10589" CreationDate="2012-08-02T20:36:50.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should be able to lock up your back wheel without jamming your leg against part of the bike. It's especially easy if you skip the back wheel a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll stop faster if you don't force a skid, just move your weight back and resist as hard as you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install a brake, damn it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T20:36:50.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10587" CreationDate="2012-08-02T20:43:30.847" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for Track Races are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/26/54/3-PIS-20150201-E_English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. In the Team Sprint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The leading rider shall lead the first lap and move towards the outside of the track and then drop back to leave the track without hindering the other team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Great Britain's semi-final this is what happened at the end of the first lap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jEpW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;GB Team Sprint&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jess Varnish (nearest to us in the picture) was the leading rider with Victoria Pendleton as the second rider. Jess Varnish should have lead for the &lt;strong&gt;whole&lt;/strong&gt; of the first lap, unfortunately Victoria Pendleton overtook her before the first lap was completed and they were disqualified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same thing happened to the Chinese team in the final.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T10:36:50.513" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T10:36:50.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10598" CreationDate="2012-08-02T20:54:48.553" Score="24" ViewCount="70266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently started commuting with a bicycle (Giant hybrid bicycle).  I've been trying to learn a little about bicycling to make my commute easier and my time on the bicycle more enjoyable.  Please forgive me for using the wrong terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that I should keep my pedalling speed mostly consistent and use my bicycles gears to adjust my speed.  The problem I'm having is understanding the 'how'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bicycle has 3 gears on the front of the chain and 8 gears on the back.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low gear == easy to pedal&#xA;High gear == harder to pedal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've found is that the gears don't follow a very logical (to me anyway) progression and because of that - I don't know how I should be shifting.  Currently, I've been keeping my front gear in the middle and using the back shifter to change between gears 3-7 or so.  I'm only use about four gears on my '21 speed' bicycle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also pretty sure the salesman said it was a 21 speed bicycle - but by my count there are 24 combinations.  I know (now) that I'm not supposed to have the front gear in the lowest position and the back gear in the highest (and vice-versa) but that seems to leave 22 gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; I be shifting?  Should I really use all 21 or 22 gears?  I haven't done the math but it really feels like there is a big amount of overlap between the gears.  I hope this ascii art will make sense to someone.  This is just how it 'feels' to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;----1----2----3----4----5----6----7----8----&#xA;------------1----2----3----4----5----6----7----8----&#xA;--------------------1----2----3----4----5----6----7----8----&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that make sense?  Is it right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels like there is overlap between the three front gears and that to shift the most 'smoothly' I'd need to constantly change both gears.  But this seems really complicated to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ridden bicycles with only three gears and I found myself thinking 'More would be nice' - but now I'm overwhelmed.  I'm also questioning if anyone really benefits from so many gears?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3162" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T17:57:37.497" Title="Help Me Understand My Bicycle's Gears" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10599" CreationDate="2012-08-02T21:44:44.293" Score="8" ViewCount="91110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to remove all these annoying labels from my bike. On the main frame there is one big logo, but I'm not sure if it's a sticker or not. The frame is black, but it's very cheaply made, and the logo is a bit higher, but between the letters it gets lower again. Is there some laser techique to get logos like this onto a frame? Or are that also just some weird kind of stickers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, how shall I go about removing the logo without damaging the underlying varnish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-04T03:21:45.417" LastActivityDate="2021-05-07T17:27:54.293" Title="How can you remove logos from a bike frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2012-08-02T22:02:24.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/QyoVbU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3M Adhesive Remover&lt;/a&gt;. It has gotten off all my stickers and duct tape, even some very tough [stuff] that I thought was a lost cause, and has not hurt any of my paint jobs, even some pretty ghetto paint I have used. I got mine at Walmart, but I'm sure any hardware store will have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to test it on a small area that is not too visible, like the inside of your rear triangle, before using it, just in case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQZH4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3M Adhesive Remover&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T22:02:24.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2012-08-02T22:05:30.600" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike was inexpensive it is likely a sticker. Can you feel an edge with your finger nail? You can try to warm the adhesive with a hairdryer and gently peel the sticker off. If the glue residue won't come off try alcohol or GOOF OFF a chemical made for that purpose. Try the chemicals on a small area that is likely to get scratched anyway  (like the rear drops near the axle slot) in case it damages the paint. If you cannot feel an edge the sticker may have been applied before the clear coat of paint in which case you can't remove them without ruining the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T22:05:30.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10594" CreationDate="2012-08-02T22:26:13.130" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't overthink it. Since you've got a triple, you're probably right to be in your middle ring most of the time That's normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the middle ring you should have access to the whole cassette/freewheel in the back, though you might get a little extra noise as you approach the extreme gears in either direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll use the big chainring when you're going downhill or your on flat ground and in a hurry. Stay out of the biggest couple of cogs in the back when you're in the big ring up front. This causes extra strain and extra wear on the drivetrain which can result in premature failure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your little ring up front is your climbing ring. Use this for hills, or as your bail-out ring when you're totally out of energy. Just like big-big is a no-no, so is small-small, so stay out of the smallest cogs in the back when you're in the smallest ring in the front.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your hunch that you've got a lot of overlap between gears, you're absolutely right. Think of each ring as a gear range (climbing for small, normal use for middle, ass-hauling for big). If there were no overlap between the chainrings you would either A) have far fewer gears in the back or B) have a range of gears in the big and small rings which were far too small or far too big to be usable.Think about how big the jumps between gears would be if there was no overlap at all! Trust me, it's not what you want. Typically, you'll find yourself Shifting the front in one direction and immediately afterwards shifting the back in the opposite direction so that it feels like you've only skipped about a single gear in either direction. In time, you'll come to appreciate the overlap between gears in the different chainrings.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Finally, if you really want to see how much overlap you have, you can divide the front rings by each of the back rings to get a ratio for every gear combination. There are fancier ways of doing this, but for your purposes this is the easiest and most straightforward.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;EDIT: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_gearing&quot;&gt;Here's a pretty good article on Wikipedia about bicycle gearing&lt;/a&gt; if you'd like to get more in depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2012-08-02T23:50:24.540" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T23:50:24.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2012-08-02T22:32:35.400" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's almost certainly stickered if it's a cheap bike, plus laser etching is usually reserved for bare metal frames - Titanium in particular. Cheap or not, it's still probably got a clear coat over it, and that sticker is almost certainly underneath the clear coat. Unless you're prepared to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=aircraft%20stripper&amp;amp;sugexp=chrome,mod=1&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot;&gt;strip it down to raw metal&lt;/a&gt;, prime it, and paint it, you're probably better of just leaving it as it is - especially if it's a cheapie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T22:32:35.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10543" CreationDate="2012-08-02T22:48:54.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No sir. You need a proper modern 26&quot; tire, which has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ISO diameter&lt;/a&gt; of 559. That doesnt match up to a 650b or 650c sized tire. The 2nd (bigger) number in the ISO will tell you for sure when you are in doubt. As far as skinny 26&quot; tires go, a few pop into my head:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=ribmo&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;sugexp=chrome,mod=1&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#hl=en&amp;amp;sclient=psy-ab&amp;amp;q=ribmo%2026%22&amp;amp;oq=ribmo%2026%22&amp;amp;gs_l=serp.3..0i30j0i5i30l3.2726.4544.0.5061.4.4.0.0.0.0.152.437.2j2.4.0.eese..0.0...1.2etK9z_eq30&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&amp;amp;fp=3caf70095441cb5a&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=1017&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panaracer RiBMo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=ribmo&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;sugexp=chrome,mod=1&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#hl=en&amp;amp;sclient=psy-ab&amp;amp;q=pasela%2026%22&amp;amp;oq=pasela%2026%22&amp;amp;gs_l=serp.3..0i30l4.16024.20795.3.22520.11.10.1.0.0.0.174.1204.3j7.10.0.eese..0.0...1.JrsLxuAUcUE&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&amp;amp;fp=3caf70095441cb5a&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=1017&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panaracer Pasela&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/city-urban/equiptirescityurbanspecials/tirenimbussport&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Nimbus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Local_bike_shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt; can offer you even more suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T22:48:54.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2012-08-03T00:12:59.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traditional bike label is a decal.  This is essentially the same sort of decal you used to botch while trying to apply it to the wing of a model airplane as a kid, except that, after application, a solvent is applied to dissolve the decal and cause it to &quot;become one with&quot; the paint/varnish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hobby shop would have the solvent used for decals -- you could try a little of that and see if it loosens the decal.  But keep in mind that a layer of varnish may have been applied over the whole mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T00:12:59.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10588" CreationDate="2012-08-03T00:25:18.910" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to see how many answers I can say this in today - don't overthink it.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A 100mm full suspension 29er is going to be able to shred anything you can throw at it for a long time. That's a good amount of travel to start with, and on a 29er it's going to feel like even more while staying efficient. The epic has a really well balanced geometry as well. It's not too twitchy, and it's not so slacked out that you have to fight it through twisty slow stuff.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Full squish 29ers are great 1st mtbs because they &lt;i&gt;are&lt;/i&gt; so versatile. Plus if you end up really enjoying mtbing, then believe me, you will end up owning more than one bike down the road so don't sweat your decision- you made a good one.&lt;br&gt; &#xA;While you own the one you have, swap with buddies, go to demo days, take advantage of opportunities to ride different styles of bikes instead of just guessing what type you think sounds good for your next purchase.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Keep in mind that everything is a trade-off. More mm of travel equals more fun to point down technical descents, but less fun to get there, and less precise handling. Heavy big squish bikes can be really taxing for riding cross country, which I'm assuming is what you'll be starting off doing.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Regarding your 2nd question, you can safely go up 20mm in the front (fork) although it will slack the geometry out a bit. The RockShox Reba that came installed on that bike can be converted to 120 by removing a couple of spacers inside the fork (it may only be 10mm of spacers that can be removed in newer models, ask your dealer). As for the rear shock, that's a bigger can of worms that you probably don't want to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T00:25:18.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10594" CreationDate="2012-08-03T00:27:35.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you'd only use the small ring for hill climbing.  And when you're having to shift a lot (rolling terrain, stop-and-go traffic, etc) you'd set the front on the middle ring and just use the rear to pick a range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when you're getting &quot;in the groove&quot; on a straight stretch, you might first find the &quot;right&quot; rear gear given the middle ring, then, if that's not quite &quot;perfect&quot; for you, shift up to the large front ring, then down-shift the rear one or two clicks.  Depending on exactly how your gears are spaced, this will put you near to the previous gear ratio -- a little above or a little below.  It's a bit of an intuition thing that you learn over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.machars.net/bikecalc.htm&quot;&gt;gear calculators&lt;/a&gt; on the web where you can input the tooth counts of your gears and it will show you the ratios.  You can the observe the order of the ratios and see how you might shift between gears to hit every gear in order.  Not that it's important to do this (vs the intuition thing), but it will give you a sense of what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T00:27:35.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10586" CreationDate="2012-08-03T00:51:02.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;first&lt;/strong&gt; thing you should be looking into is gearing to ensure that an internally geared hub will work for you! The more you pay, the more gear range you get out of a hub, but even the nicest internally geared hubs don't match the spread of standard mountain bike gearing.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you've decided that an Alfine 11 hub is for you then to answer your questions in order:&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-the axle size shouldn't be an issue.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-the hub spacing is 135mm. That's mountain bike spacing typically. Apparently it can be adapted down to 130mm but I'm not going to detail how to do that here&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-sell it/keep it/ use it as a paperweight&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-The hub will have a dedicated shifter. I seem to remember that there are both trigger and grip shift options. Should fit without issue, though you'll probably have to take your grips/bar tape off.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Yes, unless you have an incredibly nice rim with the proper drilling that you want to re-use.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You will also need a chain tensioner if your bike does not have horizontal/track-style dropouts, which I doubt it does. I believe there's one that goes along with the Alfine that Shimano sells as an accessory, though I don't think you have to have that particular one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T00:51:02.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10589" CreationDate="2012-08-03T01:18:52.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Particularly when you're learning to do a skid stop, you need to hop your back wheel off the ground momentarily and then lock your back leg while your wheel is not in contact with the road. Then when your wheel hits the road again, it will skid. You shouldn't need to jam it anywhere against your bike, I'd suggest this is probably a bit dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good to practice on wet roads. It's much easier to get the skid started when grip is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2012-08-04T05:18:49.197" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T05:18:49.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10586" CreationDate="2012-08-03T02:19:22.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems to me that replacing the crank with a double or triple would make more sense.  Or just buy a new (used?) bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To install the multi-speed hub you'd have to have your rear wheel relaced, another $50-100 over the $600 cost of the hub.  And you might have to buy a new rim, if the drilling on your current one is wrong.  A lot of money to spend for something that will still be a less than ideal solution to your problem.  Might make sense if you like to tinker with bikes, but it doesn't sound like that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that your existing shifter would work with the new hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T02:19:22.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10594" CreationDate="2012-08-03T03:16:24.883" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This chart shows the number of teeth front and back (which is a total estimate but should be representative), the index number of the gear front and back, and the I/O ratio. The I/O ratio is the number of teeth in the front divided by the number of teeth in the rear i.e. the number of rotations of the rear wheel induced by one rotation of the feet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A high I/O number means the bike will move faster for fewer leg rotations. This speed comes at the sacrifice of greater difficulty imparting force/motion on to the rear wheel at lower speeds because changes happen so slowly. In contrast to how easy it is to impart force onto the wheel from the pedals in a low gear ratio but then you need to start pedaling super quickly too soon and your legs can't keep pushing forcefully at 100+ rpm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the idea of whether or not there are redundant ratios, the chart indicates there are several combinations which are either exactly the same or very similar. This is ok because even if some combinations are the same the respectively adjacent gears will be different ratios. Also, you can see that the smallest front sprocket (1, yellow) is predominantly low ratios (slower speeds at a natural cadence) and the largest front sprocket (3, blue) is predominantly high ratios (high speeds at a natural cadence). All the while the middle front sprocket (2, green) spreads across the whole spectrum but never really fast and never really slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5xcoM.gif&quot; alt=&quot;gear ratios&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in conclusion, you should be shifting gears so that you are pedaling at a comfortable  (and constant-ish) cadence for whatever speed or incline you are traveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4574" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T03:16:24.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2012-08-03T03:47:30.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be real carefull when using decal removers, such as those used by model builders ( I have been a builder for a very long time) many of thes removers will also remove paint. Then you have a nasty spot on your bike. If you want to disguise the make of your bike, try masking the surrounding area and use auto body touch up spray paint. Most auto part stores will carry this. just try to get as close a color as possible, OR tape up a cool pattern and get a contrasting color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4535" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T03:47:30.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2012-08-03T05:39:21.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be very careful with solvents, some are quite strong and will damage the paint. Be sure to check before. Sometimes nothing happens for a few minutes, and then the paint comes off suddenly.&#xA;I've been quite successful removing &quot;void if opened&quot; stickers by freezing with liquid nitrogen or freeze spray&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.techspray.com/category-listproducts.php?cId=10&amp;amp;lang=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.techspray.com/category-listproducts.php?cId=10&amp;amp;lang=1&lt;/a&gt; or a hot air gun as mikes proposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4441" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T05:39:21.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10589" CreationDate="2012-08-03T05:42:41.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't shove your legs against the steering bar. Not only can this cause an injury, but it immobilizes you slightly and gives you a lot less control overall. For that moment your leg(s) are pinned you can't do very much and if you start to tumble it's going to be bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wet pavement advice is the best. Learn to hop it and get the skid started, but never lock your legs on anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4685" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T05:42:41.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10613" CreationDate="2012-08-03T15:29:32.483" Score="11" ViewCount="29761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a used bike on eBay, its a 2002 Marin Bobcat Trail. It has 'In-Sync 266' suspension forks. This is my first suspension bike so I need some guidance in the use and maintenance of these forks. I can't find any user manuals or anything online. Perhaps someone has one they could send me? Failing that, here are the questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The fork feels very soft to me, but I am a heavy rider and I'm not used to suspension forks. How do I know if the fork is working 'right'?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What maintenance can/should I carry out on the fork?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the left hand side (only) there is an adjustment knob labelled just + and -. What does this do and how do I know how to adjust it? Why is it only on one side?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should be enough to be going on with, any answers very much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For guidance, my last bike was a 1995 Marin Bear Valley SE, hardtail, no suspension. AWESOME bike that served me well for over 17 years, until it was stolen a few months ago. I did all my own maintenance and I consider myself a competent cycle mechanic, its just that my skills are relevant to 17-year-old bikes :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4690" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T22:06:47.923" Title="What maintenance does a front suspension fork need?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10612" CreationDate="2012-08-03T16:25:41.393" Score="9" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fork is &quot;right&quot; if it has the right &quot;sag&quot;, that is, if it lowers a bit when you get on the bike. The right sag is no less than 10%, no more than 25% of total travel, for a regular bike (non-downhill, non-special-purpose);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Basically three &quot;areas&quot; must be addressed on maintenance:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning the inside, for removal of old oil/grease, water, mud, grime, rust, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caring for the damping elements, which could be elastomer, coil, air chamber, open oil bath, etc. That would vary a lot depending on the type;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubing the telescopic parts, which are responsible for the movement of the fork. Depending on the type (open oil bath, for example) the damping oil and the stanchion-lubing oil is the same, so it is serviced together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is called &quot;preload&quot;, and probably increases or decreases the compression of a coil spring or elastomer. That is for the adjustment of &quot;sag&quot; according to your weight, being equivalent to say that it lets the fork &quot;harder&quot; or &quot;softer&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the brand of your fork is on the cheap end of the quality spectrum, so it's possible that it doesn't work perfectly, or at least not as perfectly as higher-end models. I'd say that, if it &quot;works&quot;, meaning if it saves your body (hands mostly) from shaking over bumps, then keep it, even if it has too much sag, or some play, or is not so light. But if it &quot;gives up&quot; working too soon (say, you go over bumps and it barely moves, or you feel the bumps hard on your hands), than it is well worth to change it for a better model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide you'll keep it and service it yourself, I'd recommend purchasing some grease/oil (check which you'll need for your specific model) that's made specifically for bike suspension. A lot of lubricants I've inadvertedly used in the past contained some sort of adhesive (to stick to the metal surfaces and protect them), and the lubrication became gluey as soon as the bike hit some dusty path. On the other hand, fluids intended for suspensions or hydraulic systems tend to expel impurities and keep flowing nice over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I've found some photos and reviews online, of your fork (search words: &quot;sync 266 fork&quot;). By that (plastic upper caps, dust &quot;accordions&quot; around the telescopes) and by the reviews description (mtbr.com), I'd say it is a low-end fork, thus without any hydraulic valves inside, most probably elastomer or coil spring. You should be able to disassemble it at home &quot;no-fear&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-08-05T14:11:52.930" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T14:11:52.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10618" CreationDate="2012-08-03T16:31:54.047" Score="7" ViewCount="36164" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike's manufacturer page specifies that it has a rim size of &lt;code&gt;700CX14GX36H&lt;/code&gt;.  It provides a tire size of &lt;code&gt;7X28C&lt;/code&gt;.  It also mentions that it uses high performance &lt;code&gt;700C&lt;/code&gt; tires, which I think is also referenced in the rim size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just replaced my tube by myself for the first time, and it was easy enough to determine that I needed a 700x28c size tube, but I would really like to know what all these specifications I'm seeing mean.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can someone provide an explanation of what general rim, tire and tube size specifications mean?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3183" LastEditorUserId="3183" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T19:31:14.063" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T20:59:46.330" Title="A general explanation of rim, tire and tube specifications" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-03T17:19:07.667" Score="8" ViewCount="10799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike and used it in my first triathlon without slick on. Now I'd like to get into doing triathlons just for fun, not competitively. I'd also like to get into doing cyclocross. Here's my dilemma...should I purchase a road bike and just use my Gary Fisher mountain bike for cyclocross or should I buy a cyclocross bike and use it for Triathlons? Any suggestions? Also what are the top brands for both road bikes and cyclocross bikes for a 5' female and cost range around 1K? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4692" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T11:46:53.343" Title="Should I buy a cyclocross bike or road bike to do Triathlons and CX?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10614" CreationDate="2012-08-03T17:20:10.627" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;700CX14GX36H&lt;/code&gt; means it's a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700c rim (actually ISO 622mm diameter, as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; page linked by Brad describes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;taking 14 gauge spokes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with 36 spoke holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you need to know the &lt;code&gt;700c&lt;/code&gt; bit if you're buying tyres or tubes, you need to know the &lt;code&gt;14g&lt;/code&gt; bit if you're replacing spokes, and you need to know the &lt;code&gt;36H&lt;/code&gt; bit if you're re-lacing the rim to a new hub (which will need to have 36 spoke holes to match).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some Context&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700c and 14 gauge spokes is standard for road bike wheels.&#xA;36 is a fairly high spoke count, meaning it should be durable and relatively easy to repair and re-true. On the other hand, lower spoke-count wheels may be lighter and more aerodynamic (at the possible cost of being more fragile and harder to repair).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can someone provide an explanation of what general tire and tube size specifications mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;700x23&lt;/code&gt; means a tyre fitting a 700c rim, with approximate inflated cross-sectional diameter of 23mm. &lt;code&gt;700x32&lt;/code&gt; is a fatter (32mm vs. 23mm) tyre for the same diameter rim. Note that even for the &quot;correct&quot; diameter, different tyres fit more or less easily on different rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tube described as &lt;code&gt;700x18-23&lt;/code&gt; would fit the first (&lt;code&gt;700x23&lt;/code&gt;) tyre, but would be likely to burst before filling the greater volume of the fatter &lt;code&gt;700x32&lt;/code&gt; tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a &lt;em&gt;general&lt;/em&gt; explanation ... Sheldon's table is probably the best you're going to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastEditorUserId="3311" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T17:31:01.740" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T17:31:01.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10617" CreationDate="2012-08-03T17:56:46.020" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the budget for only one more bicycle you cannot go wrong with a cyclocross bike, you will be able to race CX in the fall (typically after triathlon season) and you can get some fenders and slick tires for road rides in winter/spring and take the fenders off when the weather turns nice for Triathlon season. You can get clip on aero bars if you really want to, but since your planning the triathlons as fun events, there is no need for aero bars or a tri specific bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use my CX bike year round, either with CX tires during cross season or fenders/slicks during rainy season and take the fenders off during the summer months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get by with a MTB for cross races (I see people all the time with MTBs at cross races), but it will be heavier and harder to carry up the run ups and over the barriers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at Kona - 'Jake' or 'Jake the Snake' for a good CX bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep that mountain bike and try an XTerra (offroad) triathlon, lots of fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T17:56:46.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10622" CreationDate="2012-08-03T18:45:36.120" Score="2" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the moment I cycle half an hour every evening, on a crappy indoor stationary bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;BUT I'm pretty good, get some good speeds and distances etc.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I want to start cycling outside again, I want a bike similar to a stationary bike, one that rides similarly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Maybe very few gears, or just one?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What would you guys recommend?? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4689" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T20:06:20.223" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T20:06:20.223" Title="What type of bike has the most similar feel to a stationary bike?" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;stationary-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-10-01T20:06:26.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10642" CreationDate="2012-08-03T18:51:59.403" Score="6" ViewCount="9397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently caught my rear derailleur on a log and snapped it in two. I have done some recent work on some department store bikes and noticed that some come equipped with an axle mounted guard around that surrounds the derailleur. Does anyone have any experience with these. Do they work or is it just something else to get snagged by brush and vines?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T20:23:03.123" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T20:23:03.123" Title="Does a rear derailleur guard provide effective protection?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10620" CreationDate="2012-08-03T20:49:42.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This really depends on the type of stationary bike you are talking about. There's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0033Q13YA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;older style&lt;/a&gt; as well as bikes that resemble &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002ZWWFGS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;road bikes&lt;/a&gt; (at least in terms of body position), as well as some &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001I8A1Z2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recumbent bikes&lt;/a&gt;. There are bicycles that match pretty well to all three of those stationary bikes.  However, it's worth mentioning that just because you are comfortable on a stationary bike, does not mean you will be comfortable on a bike with the same posture.  For instance the first bike I linked to is very much upright.  A bike like that would be fine for a quick trip to the corner store, but you would probably tire of it quickly if you were trying to get some serious exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T20:49:42.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10617" CreationDate="2012-08-03T22:13:24.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cross bike will do a little bit of everything fairly well. A triathlon bike will only do time trials. You're also going to have more options at the $1k range with a cross bike. Slim pickins at that price point for a tri bike. &#xA;Get some clip on aero bars and get a cross bike. If down the road you really get eaten up with triathlon, and get a dedicated tri bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T22:13:24.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10620" CreationDate="2012-08-03T23:22:11.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very significant factor with 99% of stationary bikes is that they have no momentum -- when you stop pedaling the bike stops, and it takes extra effort to resume pedaling, even if you only stopped for an instant.  You simply can't reproduce this behavior on a &quot;real world&quot; bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, your basic stationary bikes provide no variability in resistance, whereas &quot;in the real world&quot; even riding on the flat there is variability as the road goes up and down slightly, the wind shifts, etc.  Reproducing the lack of variability requires a very smooth, flat road on a windless day.  (More sophisticated stationary bikes do provide variability, though it's rarely very realistic.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as Kibbee stated, stationary bikes vary in posture, from very upright to quite recumbent.  The most upright stationary bikes probably resemble a track bike, while others more of a &quot;cruiser&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T23:27:32.873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T23:27:32.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10540" CreationDate="2012-08-04T03:02:14.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ride the tire at anything under the 65psi listed by the manufacturer unless the loaded bike (with you on it) deforms the tire more than 15% of the tire height or you experience bottoming-out on the rim that causes a flat. There's no need for a rock-hard tire unless you like to be rattled to pieces. Higher-pressures will not make a bike tire roll faster. (Likewise, narrower tires will not make you go faster.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detailed info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideal tire pressure has a great deal to do with tire width and the bike rider's weight which might also include anything sizeable that might be carried on the bike (backpack, panniers, luggage, heavy items on a bike rack or basket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Narrow tires require quite high pressures and have a smaller adjustment range for various rider weights. Wide tires, conversely, do not need high pressures for an ideal balance of speed and comfort. &quot;Inflating tires to the maximum pressure recommended by the manufacturer tends to underinflate narrow tires and to overinflate wide tires.&quot;*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Folks often overinflate their tires thinking that they'll go much faster and somehow have less drag, when all it really does is provide a harsher ride. Pick a pressure that allows some deformity to the tire (about 15% horizontal drop in the height of the tire if you want to be really fussy) when you are in loaded/riding position. Enough pressure to prevent the tire from bottoming out or causing pinch flats. (Generally, old tires that are worn thin or improper/lack of rimstrip is often a more common cause of those types of flats.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some very thorough independent testing resulted in saying &quot;with great certainy that increasing your tire pressure (beyond a certain point) does not make your bike faster on road surfaces that range from very rough to very smooth. In fact, on very rough road surfaces, higher pressures are a lot slower than lower pressures, because the suspension losses are so great. On most surfaces, tire pressure (beyond a certain point) simply doesn’t make a difference in speed.&quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://janheine.wordpress.com/2010/10/18/science-and-bicycles-1-tires-and-pressure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://janheine.wordpress.com/2010/10/18/science-and-bicycles-1-tires-and-pressure/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This and other technical details provided by a Bicycle Quarterly Article:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't ride around on rock-hard tires - unless you absolutely must because your tires are too skinny and/or your load is too large. Many people would be better off riding much larger, better quality tires with supple casings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4693" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T03:02:14.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10621" CreationDate="2012-08-04T04:19:08.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had one on my bike in Japan. I never had problems with them, my derailleur stayed intact. I didn't take it through many bushes, but I did drop it a lot on the right side (naturally get off that side, and I never use a kick stand) and have bumped against posts and stuff. The riding I do now is in the mountains, lots of rocks but not much brush so I don't ever think about it anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one I had was bolted to the dropout, but covered the same area as the ones I have seen on the axle. If you are going through some pretty tough brush, it might not protect against everything, but for the protection it does give, it is definitely worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T04:19:08.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2012-08-04T16:52:04.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem on my mountain bike. My bike is a 2008 Giant trance x2. It would &quot;ghost shift&quot; under load usually going uphill. It would even miss shift locking the back wheel. Very frustrating. I took it to my local bike shop and they did some adjustments and replace the chain. Resulting in a little improvement but still basically unrideable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to change out everything having anythging to do with the back derailer. I went a little on the high end by buying a SRAM XO rear derailer and shifters, a SRAM 1070 cassette, and a KMC chain. I also replaced the cables &amp;amp; installed a Clarks cable kit which protects the exposed cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result - Unbelievably good shifting!! Better then when the bike was new. The SRAM XO is so easy to adjust, I did all the work myself (had to buy a few tools) but its like a new bike now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4698" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T16:52:04.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5647" CreationDate="2012-08-04T21:54:05.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an spd user myself.  As I don't hang out with many mountain bikers a lot of my friends tend to look at them and take an instant dislike to them but I have found them to be fantastic.  I was never keen on the toeclip type of pedals because I always found it incredibly difficult to get my toes into the right side of them and they would often end up scraping on the floor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double sided spds are fantastic though.  The speed increase is amazing, it is like suddenly getting super powers when you can also pull up as well as push down.  The real beauty of them is that with a twist of the hex key you can adjust their tightness so that they are at the perfect strength to be able to slip in and out of really easily.  The only instances in which you might not have enough time to put your foot down is when you are taking a fast corner and for whatever reason your tire slips out from under you.  It very rarely happens.  I do not trust the type that you have to slip your toe into though, an old girlfriend of mine broke her leg due to those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4703" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T21:54:05.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10540" CreationDate="2012-08-04T23:10:20.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what kind of tires you're running, but 65PSI is a really low maximum pressure for a 700x32 tire. I wouldn't exceed it if I were you. I'd probably throw them out and get a pair of tires that are a little more confidence inspiring. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tire pressure is more of an art than a science (even moreso with mountain bike tires), and much of it is going to come down to preference. The skinnier the tire, the higher the pressure. The bigger the rider, the higher the pressure. To a lesser extent, the higher the TPI (threads per inch), the higher the pressure. There is a sweet spot between the min and max pressures, and it depends on the mentioned factors and more, and each rider just has to feel it out for themselves. That said, Michelin has a chart that can provide a decent starting point for road tires and you can go up or down from there as you please. Keep in mind they've designed this around their own tires, and ultimately other reputable sources probably have other opinions on the matter. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrCO0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In Michelin's words:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt; Just as with your car tires, proper inflation pressure is very important to how your bicycle tires perform and last. And as with car tires, the most important variable that affects what the proper pressure should be is the load your tires are asked to carry.Thanks to more than a century of tire technology research, Michelin engineers have found that there's a certain amount of deflection in the tire profile that's optimal for balancing grip, efficiency, comfort and durability. That deflection is based on the tire's construction and the weight of the rider. Obviously, your style of riding can have an effect too, but the chart below should give you a reasonable guide of where to start when experimenting to find the proper tire pressure for you.&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are a few related interesting tidbits at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michelinbicycletire.com/michelinbicycle/index.cfm?event=airpressure.view&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Michelin's site.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T23:10:20.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10639" CreationDate="2012-08-05T03:02:38.610" Score="5" ViewCount="20685" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bought my bike back in 1999, it was mounted on Shimano 105 except for rear derailleur and cassette which are Deore XT (all 9-speed, Hyperglide). The vendor then told me &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;..and you've got a Deore XT derailleur, more solid than the 105&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure Shimano won't suggest such combination however I wonder what kind of problem this can create. Shifter/derailleur compatibility? Chain/cassette compatibility? Cassette/hub fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: 105 was 9-speed in 1999.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4706" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T16:57:12.513" Title="Mixing components: 105 and Deore XT" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="50426" CreationDate="2012-08-05T12:32:40.900" Score="5" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the pace bike gets the pack up to speed, but of the 8 lap race how do they decide which lap to bring the pace bike off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it based on speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2017-10-02T16:20:44.887" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T16:20:44.887" Title="When does the pace bike leave in Keirin?" Tags="&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10635" CreationDate="2012-08-05T13:43:52.447" Score="1" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sprint-centar.hr/offd/127/basic-2012---mtb-bikes---author---bicikli#!prettyPhoto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Author Basic (2012)&lt;/a&gt; with a 17&quot; frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have some back aches after 2 or more hours of cycling (just cycling or with little jumping) and sometimes I feel a little unsure while riding (discomfort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's about frame size. My preferred frame size is 18&quot; and I figured this out later. I can't give the bike back to the store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I had Mongoose Tyax Comp (2010) in size S with Kenda Small Block Eight tires I felt more comfortable and self-assured than on my current bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what can I do now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brother says that I can lift my seat back a little + buy new longer stem and it can help to win couple inches but I don't know if it can really help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe there are some different and more convenient way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no money to buy new bike or new frame, so I'm hoping to find a tweak or solution for my current bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4707" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T02:58:52.747" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T03:27:26.807" Title="How to convert 17&quot; bike to 18&quot; without changing the frame" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6854" CreationDate="2012-08-05T14:16:22.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You used to be able to get Insteps for Look pedals. These were plastic toe-clips with moulded-in cleats, which used standard straps. The &quot;stand height&quot; was a bit higher than using the Look shoes, but they were ideal for short trips. There is a similar product on the market now, but it places your foot about half an inch higher than normal, so is rubbish. for SPDs, I can find nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4708" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T14:16:22.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10633" CreationDate="2012-08-05T15:07:56.590" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without being able to get a larger frame, your brothers suggestions are about the best you'll be able to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you feel too compact on the bike (arms/hands feel close to your knees when pedaling)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pushing the seat back and longer stem will allow you to stretch out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can purchase a longer seat post if needed, they even make offset seat posts that would allow you to move the seat a little further back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you feel like your are leaning over too much on the bike (handle bars seem too low and you need to crouch over to reach them)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are all sorts of stems in a wide variety of lengths available, even riser stems that raise the height of the handle bars so you are not leaning over as much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can also purchase riser handlebars that would provide some additional height to the front end of the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched out from flat handlebars to riser handlebars on my mountain bike and felt much more comfortable. These new handlebars were also wider which have made me feel much more stable on the trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T23:11:38.537" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T23:11:38.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10641" CreationDate="2012-08-05T16:04:59.407" Score="2" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the bikes used by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bixisystem.com/what-we-do/the-bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bixi&lt;/a&gt; bike sharing system, in cities like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/cycling/14808.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;London&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thehubway.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boston&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://citibikenyc.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New York&lt;/a&gt;, accept trailers like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trail-a-bike.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trail-a-bikes&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tagalong.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tag-a-longs&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T21:15:33.233" Title="Can I attach a trailer to a Bixi bicycle?" Tags="&lt;sharing-scheme&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-05T16:13:24.763" Score="0" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Kaitai dual sport and I love the bike however, I find myself doing a lot more road riding than off road riding and am looking for things I can do to the bike that will help road rides.  I ride with another person who has a road bike and it is MUCH more efficient.  I can easily ride 5mph faster on that bike with minimal effort.  Would it be possible to change out the tires?  Tires and rims?   Something so I can more easily keep pace, without having to buy a new bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4709" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T22:44:31.607" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T15:41:02.433" Title="How to change a Gary Fisher Kaitai Dual Sport to be faster on the road?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10632" CreationDate="2012-08-05T16:23:57.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It leaves at lap 5-1/2 laps at the Olympics, but it's more tied to distance. Speed plays a factor in that at the point the pacer leaves the track, they should be going 50 km/hour (or some set speed for the particular race). The pacer will always leave the track after the same distance and for a 400M velodrome, that's 5-1/2 laps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: looking around the web, it looks like some K. races go other distances. Keirin has it's roots in Japan with paramutual betting and I get the impression that it varies a bit more in Japan than it does in the U.S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T16:23:57.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10631" CreationDate="2012-08-05T16:31:23.527" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Deore XT is a mountain bike derailleur and as such has is long cage dérailleur. Long cage dérailleurs can &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/largest-cassette-short-cage-derailleur-215673.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;run larger cassettes&lt;/a&gt; for a larger gearing range (at the cost of larger jumps between gears).  I don't know what the Shimano product selection was like in 1999, but you can now get Shimano 105 as either long or short cage depending on your set up (see images below). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Deore XT being more &quot;solid&quot; in 1999 we were running 105 short cage derailleurs on downhill bikes with a single front ring, so that we could run shorter chain lengths and have less chain slap.  The 105 derailleurs survived many crashes.  (&lt;em&gt;Speculation/Humour&lt;/em&gt; - I personally suspect the shop was smoking some impressive substances, as was often the case with bicycle shop owners in the 90's)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Compatibility Notes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more technical description you should see a previous bicycle.stackexchange question: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7264/how-to-calculate-the-capacity-of-a-rear-derailleur&quot;&gt;How to calculate the capacity of a rear derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short cage&lt;/strong&gt; - Short cage dérailleur can only take up or let out so much chain slack.  Therefore your gearing setup may require more chain slack than your derailleur can give or take up.  For example on a double front ring (road bike) set up you can't have a rear cassette that has a cog larger than 27. That said, on the right setup the chain slack is tighter and shifting should be more precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long-cage&lt;/strong&gt; - Long cage dérailleurs can take up or let out much more chain slack due to the longer pulley cage.  You can run a larger array of gears as a result.  The downside is that shifting isn't quite as precise and the chain isn't under as much tension and you are more likely to get chain slap on rougher terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;UPDATE: Since posting I have learned that there are now short, medium and long cage derailleurs.  Same basic idea still applies.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Visual Distinction Between Short and Long Cage Derailleurs&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you a better idea about what a short and long cate derailleur look like I dug up the following images from google.  Your Deore XT will have similar proportions as the Shimano 105 long cage derailleur displayed below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short Cage Shimano 105&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y1jfY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;short cage shimano 105&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long Cage Shimano 105&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NvHTQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;long cage shimano 105&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T16:36:42.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7246" CreationDate="2012-08-05T17:00:23.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a cheap pair of shoes from Specialized that are awesome for wide feet. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftr/shoes/recreationalfitnessshoes/tahoe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tahoe From Specialized&lt;/a&gt;.  Note: this isn't a 'competitive' shoe; it's classified as recreational. I ride a hybrid for fitness, and I wear 10.5 US 4E New Balances when I buy athletic shoes.  I paid $85 from a retailer but I think you can get them cheaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shoe works because of the construction. They're built like Keen or Merrell sandals, meaning they wrap around your foot in a basket-like construction. It's not a sandal though, in that the sides of the shoe have strips of leather and nylon that flex around the toe box.(don't know if I'm using the right terms) Again, I'm a fitness rider, and I need a versatile shoe for commutes and long rides. And I've been wearing them on long rides for two weeks without any pain. These have a pop-out section on the forefoot to accomodate a clip if you want to install one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4710" LastEditorUserId="4710" LastEditDate="2012-08-05T22:19:58.747" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T22:19:58.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10636" CreationDate="2012-08-05T21:15:33.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many trailers attach via a hitch on the rear axle of the bicycle. Since bike share bikes use proprietary fittings to reduce theft, it would not be possible to install one of these on a bike-share bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trailers you are asking about appear to attach to a seat post. Bike share bikes always have adjustable (but not removable) seat posts. You should have no problem adjusting the post and installing one of these seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find it's not worth your effort attaching and detaching a trailer when you're likely to be only using the bike for a half hour at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T21:15:33.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10621" CreationDate="2012-08-05T21:53:55.053" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a mate fall off with one attached it got bend and jammed the derailleur so bad we had to walk home, as the tools we carried were not good to get it off. I have seen many prangs where the derailleur took bigger hits with no problems. Most that I have seen (Department store ones) are too light and cheaply build to be anything other than cosmetic.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also depends on the bike - better bikes have a derailleur hanger that is sacrificial and bends, protecting the derailleur in many common prangs. Department store bikes often don't have a hanger, hence the derailleur takes the full impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have though about it, but with years of Mountain biking, many falls (some big), only ever bend a hanger. They may work, but I asked - why do no mid/high end bikes them. Is it purely weight, do the want to sell more parts, or is it just not worth weight and money required to make a bike so strong it cannot be broken in a fall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided (for me) they a not worth while.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T21:53:55.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10633" CreationDate="2012-08-05T22:20:04.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you still have your old bike grab a tapemeasure and take a few measurements. Start with center of the pedal to top of the saddle while the crank arm is aligned with the seatpost. If your new bike is shorter and the seatpost is at the max look for a 400mm or longer post to get more leg extension. because of the seatpost angle this will push you back away from the bars. Measure from the back of the saddle to the center of the bars. This will give you some idea how far you need to as @Glenn suggests extend the stem or increase seatpost setback. With a few measurements you will save time and aggravation of installing stems and bars  and being unsatisfied  with the fit. This wont be exact but will get you closer than just quessing how much you need to extend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T22:20:04.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-06T01:47:08.233" Score="5" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Raleigh dealer told me my spokes keep breaking because China is dumping spokes made with cheap metal on American markets that rust from the inside.  I'm being charged $100 US dollars to swap Chinese spokes for American spokes on the front wheel only.  He says this is a problem across the country, but especially here in NE Florida.  What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4711" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-08-06T10:25:20.470" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T23:49:47.707" Title="Is China dumping cheap spokes on America market?" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10398" CreationDate="2012-08-06T01:57:35.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same sort of clicking with my Rohloff two years ago over many months.  Eventually the chain broke when I was in the wilds. I fixed the chain with a spare link and never heard a click again.  It appears that a chain link was cracked for all that time without me noticing and the hub was blameless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4712" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T01:57:35.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-06T02:32:49.177" Score="1" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trackstands (a trick in which a rider, usually on a fixed-gear bike, keeps balanced with zero speed, by pedalling back and forth with minimum displacement) can be employed either on the track or on the streets, mainly at traffic lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the track, the rider can slow down and create a hard time for an opponent. On the traffic light, one can keep himself on the bike and be ready to go. That makes the trick &quot;desireable&quot;, so it is either regulated on official events, and used itself for &quot;trackstand competitions&quot;, mostly in the fixie subculture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have to ask is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the UCI criteria for the judge to stop the countdown for trackstand duration?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the criteria traditionally used on informal competitions for taking a &quot;competitor&quot; out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What SHOULD BE a reasonable way to tell when a rider degenerated from a correct trackstand to something else (forward or backward movement, too large a change in position, etc.)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-08-06T15:58:09.997" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T15:58:09.997" Title="When does a trackstand &quot;officially&quot; ends (or how to measure its duration?)" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;trackstand&gt;&lt;competition&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10647" CreationDate="2012-08-06T07:05:41.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;(too big for a comment)...not a real answer, just a partial:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From UCI part 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.2.039 The rider on the inside of the track, unless overtaken, shall lead at least at walking pace and make no manoeuvre to force his opponent through until reaching the pursuit line on the opposite side of the track. A maximum of two standstills shall be permitted for each race. The maximum period for a standstill shall be 30 seconds following which, the leading rider shall be directed by the starter to continue. If he fails to do so, the starter shall stop the race and declare the other rider the winner of the heat. In a three or four-up race, the race shall be immediately rerun as a two or three-up race, without the relegated rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T07:05:41.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10645" CreationDate="2012-08-06T10:28:19.470" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is, &quot;Find a dealer you trust.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether what he told you is right or wrong, you clearly believe he is having you on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will not result in a good relationship, no matter whether he is scamming you, or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely, he is either poorly educated on the cause of the spokes breaking, and is having difficulty explaining something to you in an effective manner, and is therefore making stuff up, or he is having you on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T10:28:19.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7246" CreationDate="2012-08-06T13:46:17.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's also possible, if you have the tools and the inclination, to make your own from a pair of non-cycling shoes that already fit correctly. Ideally these should have a flattish outsole (so they don't catch on the pedals) which is also thick enough to recess the cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll still ideally want the stiff insole from a cycling shoe (as &lt;a href=&quot;http://djcatnap.com/?p=680&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) to spread the pressure from the plate the cleats bolt onto.  So, you need a donor cycling shoe whose sole isn't &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; narrow, but at least it doesn't need to fit around your feet for this to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T13:46:17.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10244" CreationDate="2012-08-06T14:18:48.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google Maps has a (not unreasonable) bike overlay for London now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://maps.google.co.uk/?ll=51.512589,-0.126686&amp;amp;spn=0.185247,0.527687&amp;amp;t=m&amp;amp;z=12&amp;amp;lci=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://maps.google.co.uk/?ll=51.512589,-0.126686&amp;amp;spn=0.185247,0.527687&amp;amp;t=m&amp;amp;z=12&amp;amp;lci=bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4717" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T14:18:48.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10645" CreationDate="2012-08-06T18:29:10.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of Chinese parts on the market as well as Taiwanese parts but then again, that could be said about any product that is sold in the US these days. Plus, quality of Chinese and Taiwanese parts are respectable for the most part. I would suspect that the real problem is how the wheel is being built and/or how it is being used. I have come across some really cheap and worthless wheels that were made here in the states and super nice wheels that were made in a different country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4498" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T18:29:10.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-06T22:05:08.933" Score="2" ViewCount="2546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to adapt an old '83 Fuji Del Rey frame with the parts of my broken '86 Fuji Espree and I'm having problems adapting the Derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Del Rey frame doesn't come with the little hook where the derailleur was in the other frame and I'm wondering if I can adapt a derailleur hanger to it.&#xA;I've done research but there are a lot of different models and I don't know how to evaluate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a generic one that can be attached directly to where the wheel goes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a detail photo of the Espree:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrfAJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://i.stack.imgur.com/OrfAJ.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is a detail of the Del Rey with my wheel on it. (I realized it's not very clear, I'll upload new pics as I get home)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cl.ly/IaY5/IMG_2724.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cl.ly/IaY5/IMG_2724.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4636" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T20:19:13.360" Title="Can I use a derailleur hanger in my old frame?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10654" CreationDate="2012-08-06T23:01:26.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are replacement hangers to adapt a modern deraileur to horizontal drops. I have never used one and can't say how well they work. BikeParts.com lists this Shimano compatable piece ID#: BPC109497 that  may do the trick. Talk to someone at the LBS (local bike shop) first,if you get it locally you will be able to try it for fit before buy it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T23:01:26.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10657" CreationDate="2012-08-07T00:57:18.843" Score="19" ViewCount="9590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching the Olympics today and happened to catch track cycling (sprint). I understand that they have fixed gear bikes which is a reason they start slow, however, I did not understand why they did a lap or a little more at a very slow pace, then proceeded to pick up the pace for the second lap, and finally sprinted on the last lap instead of just going full out from the get go? What is the strategy behind this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4358" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T21:47:24.313" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T21:47:24.313" Title="Why do track cyclers start slow?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;&lt;racing-strategy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10656" CreationDate="2012-08-07T02:06:43.593" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;They don't start slow because they are on a fixed gear (track) bike. They start slow because they are trying to coax the other rider into starting the sprint for the finish line before they do. The advantage is typically given to the rider behind the other because you have not only the element of surprise, but you also get a draft off the person in front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These riders walk the line of not starting their sprint too early and thusly fading at the end...and allowing the other rider to get the jump on them and losing the advantage of getting in their draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T02:06:43.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10660" CreationDate="2012-08-07T02:13:34.083" Score="5" ViewCount="18433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a bike tire that says &quot;(32-630) 27 X 1 1/4&quot; on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got also got an innertube that says &quot;700X18/23C -27X1 &lt;strong&gt;A/V&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out if the innertube is the right size for the tire.  I gather that my tire has a 27&quot; diameter and a 1 1/4&quot; width.  It seems that the innertube is designed for a tire that's 27&quot; by 1&quot;... which seems like it's not the right size.  But is that correct?  Or will the innertube fit?  And in either case, what does &lt;strong&gt;A/V&lt;/strong&gt; mean in this context?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4721" LastActivityDate="2021-03-03T03:29:10.220" Title="What does A/V mean on an inner tube package?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10661" CreationDate="2012-08-07T03:07:23.673" Score="5" ViewCount="5212" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I want to replace the front derailleur on an already set up bicycle (replace SRAM Apex with SRAM Force), do I have to unlink and relink the chain on order to thread it through the FD cage? Or can I open the cage instead? I notice that the FD cage has a screw near the bottom. Can I just unscrew it, open the cage, put it over the chain and replace the screw afterwards? It looks like a have to force the cage open for that to work, risking damage to the cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Virtually every FD replacement guide on the Net does it by threading the chain through the cage before the chain loop is closed, but most of them apparently refer to new setups. What about the situations when the chain is already installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A followup&lt;/strong&gt;: Unscrewed the cage and installed the derailleur without unlinking the chain. The cage is actually slightly pre-tensioned to spread apart when the screw is removed. Granted, it is easier to perform the initial alignment and adjustment of the derailleur &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; the chain, but it is also doable with the chain in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastEditorUserId="2918" LastEditDate="2012-08-10T00:28:50.147" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T00:28:50.147" Title="Replacing the front derailleur: unlink the chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10658" CreationDate="2012-08-07T03:13:47.360" Score="16" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Schrader valve/Schrader tube&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;aka &amp;quot;American valve&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Automotive valve&amp;quot;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5M9mo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Schrader valve consists of a valve stem into which a valve core is threaded, and is used on virtually all automobile tires and most wider rimmed bicycle tires. The valve core is a poppet valve assisted by a spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T03:13:47.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10659" CreationDate="2012-08-07T03:17:02.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your chain has a powerlink, you can disconnect it pretty easily. Otherwise, it is pretty straightforward to open up the cage and slip the chain out. It shouldn't damage it (as front derailleurs are pretty simple mechanisms).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T03:17:02.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10659" CreationDate="2012-08-07T03:25:53.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you have a removable screw at the back of the front derailleur, you can remove it, spread the derailleur cage, and slip the chain through. Do it gently, and there is enough spring resistance in the steel to return to it s proper shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T03:25:53.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10659" CreationDate="2012-08-07T04:28:41.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 speed SRAM Powerlinks require a special tool to undo and, unlike their 9speed counterparts, are not supposed to be reused. That said, you can use a pair of needle nosed pliers in a pinch, and the Powerlink can be reassembled after breaking it if you want to take the (relatively small) risk.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, if both derailleurs have screws as opposed to rivets, just undo the screw. Not a bad idea to apply threadlocker to the screw upon reassembly as I have seen them fall out before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T04:28:41.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10666" CreationDate="2012-08-07T08:21:43.483" Score="7" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going away on a cycling holiday to the Alps and need to take my bike on the plane with me. Has anyone had experience taking bikes on planes and how did you protect your bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend anything which will solve this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4723" LastEditorUserId="4723" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T12:15:24.300" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T00:54:13.417" Title="Flying with your bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;security&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10664" CreationDate="2012-08-07T09:23:41.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/2012/jul/31/airline-bike-friendly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This mini review of the airlines may help&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will no doubt need a bike-bag these range from 60quid to hundreds &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T09:23:41.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10664" CreationDate="2012-08-07T11:11:32.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two schools of thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1a) Bike box:  This is a hard shell, fairly large box that with wheels, pedals removed, and handlebars (disconnected at the stem) put to the side fits your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a safety of your bike perspective this is pretty protective.  I have used this approach flying within the United States, and over to Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will almost certainly be charged by the airline extra. At one time membership in the US's Mountain Bike association (whose name escapes me) had a deal with many airlines to waive the fee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1b) Paper bike box: Sometimes you can buy these at airports (Call ahead), or else many bike stores will let you grab one from a new bike they recently assembled.  (I know taking Via Rail on Sunday from Ottawa to Toronto they sell them for $10 at the train station).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Bike bag: By using a soft bag, it implies to the luggage handlers, be gentle.  I know people who travel with bikes who swear by them.  Again wheels and pedals removed, to minimize size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not personally convinced that luggage handlers at airports around the world really feel that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will still likely have to pay an oversized luggage fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, many airports have different luggage carousels so it will probably NOT come off with your regular luggage, so look around or ask where that might be.  I have seen as nice as a specially marked obvious area, to an unmarked door you have to wait at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, some smaller planes might not have room for your box or bag, so they might send it later, making you wait for it, depending on how your connecting flights work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="19" LastEditDate="2012-08-08T00:54:13.417" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T00:54:13.417" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10670" CreationDate="2012-08-07T12:47:39.983" Score="-1" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7428/what-is-the-effect-of-adding-weight-to-a-wheel-vs-adding-it-to-the-frame&quot;&gt;What is the effect of adding weight to a wheel vs adding it to the frame?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do lighter wheels make a significant difference when climbing or would a lighter frame do the same? Do lighter inner-tubes and tyres make the same difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4723" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T14:33:01.707" Title="Lighter bike for climbing" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-08-07T20:42:25.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10664" CreationDate="2012-08-07T12:53:00.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Box is safest for your bike, no doubt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've flown twice from Australia to Europe using a bag. On the whole it was great. Once my wheel needed a bit of truing, and on one trip (home luckily) my derailleur hanger was bent and needed replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of a soft bag is you can pack it up when you arrive, which is great if you are touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;British airways had a policy where you could buy an extra luggage allowance for a bike for about $50, ie not per kilo, though that was about a year ago and may have changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way you have to dismantle your bike fairly significantly, so make sure you have the skills to put it back together :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4713" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T12:53:00.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10668" CreationDate="2012-08-07T14:24:59.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of climbing at a steady speed, weight on the wheel is exactly the same as weight on the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of acceleration, weight at the rim slows acceleration (but also deceleration) by 2x of the same weight on the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T14:24:59.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-07T17:12:36.737" Score="7" ViewCount="3727" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to power, stamina, endurance, what skills must you master to succeed in professional cycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T23:51:47.047" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T01:59:02.667" Title="What skills must cyclists master to succeed at racing?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10671" CreationDate="2012-08-07T18:27:52.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability to handle a bike at high speeds;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an awareness of where other cyclists and road hazards are even while moving at speed with few drag-inducing looks back;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the ability to compress one's body into an aerodynamic shape while generating high levels of torque and hold this position for hours without losing blood flow to extremities;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the ability to simultaneously monitor breathing, pedal pace, plan gear shifts, plan a route around road obstacles, and keep an eye out for attacks and maintain this focus for hours at a stretch;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the ability to visually judge the grade of the road (and its derivative) and project momentum and power along that curve so that one can be in an efficient gear at all times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously even in a solo competition, one need not excel at all these to be a good cyclist, just be almost as good as the competition in each and excel in one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling really is a team sport though, so a team can still function well if the strategic skills are distributed as long as each member can execute tactically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T18:33:13.933" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T18:33:13.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10621" CreationDate="2012-08-07T18:28:55.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen some bikes with the derailleur being bent because the bike fell on the derailleur side. So I usually recommend to have one so that your derailleur is protected, and it proved useful for me a few times, but some guards are just too light and they bend and then bend the derailleur, so it must be heavy to really protect your derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it makes your bike heavier, but what the heck, to gain weight on your bike just wear short pants instead of jeans, you'll gain more weight than using costly parts on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4676" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T18:28:55.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10654" CreationDate="2012-08-07T20:19:13.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amazon has shimano derailleur adapters which should probably do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003UW4AXS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Rear-derailleur-mount-adapter/dp/B003UW4AXS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1344370705&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=shimano+sis+rear+derailleur+adapter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T20:19:13.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2012-08-07T20:20:26.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a regular mountain bike half helmet for mountain biking, and never had problems... then, one day I crashed hard (due to unexpected hikers on the single track going downhill) and fell on my face: almost knocking out my front 4 teeth, and nice scrapes and bruises on my nose and chin (not cool to have on a girl).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recovered with some scarring, but the fall made me realize that they made the full-faced helmet for a GREAT REASON.  I used to think it looked heavy and ridiculous, but now I use the full-face for going downhill, and switch out to the half helmet on my climbs back up.  Safety first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I bought a rockgarden full-face helmet, and it's very comfy and has lots of ventilation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4726" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2013-08-23T17:17:21.843" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T17:17:21.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10664" CreationDate="2012-08-07T21:03:23.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a fan of boxes, I have flown all over europe, and once to New Zealand with my bike and the worst damage were some scratches, and (once) a slightly bent rear derailleur (that was quite fixed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Netherlands you can buy really strong really nice boxes from KLM, and they fly the all over the world for about EUR 100,- one way (including the box). These boxes are so big you just have to remove your pedals, lower your handlebars and saddle, and you can drive your bike right in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside the Netherlands you could check the odd-size luggage department of various airlines to see if they carry boxes, but a better option is to ask your LBS to save a box for you. They mostly get their bikes shipped in boxes that .. oddly .. fit an entire bike! The best you can get are Koga boxes. They are huge and strong, but not worldwide: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koga.com/koga_uk/find-dealers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.koga.com/koga_uk/find-dealers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the return trip: What I usually do if I'm returning from the same airport is to spend an hour or two to find someone willing to keep my big-ass box in his office or storage space for a few weeks. If this doesn't work I ditch the box and buy a cheap foam camping mat and a roll of duct-tape at the last campground and wrap pieces around the most vulnerable bits of my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T21:03:23.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10671" CreationDate="2012-08-07T21:51:21.267" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are not familiar with road cycling it may seem like simply a feat of strength/endurance, but there are also a number of skills required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skill: Group Riding&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding in a peloton at speed around corners is difficult.  Often you can be at 65km/hr with 100+ other cyclists around you with only inches to spare while entering a series of corners.  In this situation you often get contact and there is pushing.  You have to be strong on the bike so that you can push back or take a hit without crashing.  This is not easy.  Sometimes opposing riders with deliberately nudge your handle bars in a corner to push you out of position, you need good balance to absorb and push back to hold your position.  You also only have inches to do this before you hit someone else in the peloton and potentially start a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to anticipate how the group moves, if you react too slow you will quickly filter to the back to the group, which is the worst place to be (riders in the back often get yo-yo'd as the group surges and slows).  You will then have to make repeated efforts to get back in or to move up. You can save a lot of energy and effort if you ride smart within the group.  This means constantly making micro tactical decisions.  Over the course of 200+ km race, all these little decisions can mean the difference between whether or not you can put in that last big effort to break from the group and take the win (a la Vino).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such a constant effort of positional awareness takes a lot of continued focus (our next skill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note - I know you said avoid discussion of tactics, but you also said tactics in terms of how the stage is progressing.  Before you can get to that point there are quite a few essential group riding tactics you need to learn.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skill: Focus&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road racing is about being able to endure pain.  The more pain you can endure the faster you can perform.  There have been points where I thought I was going to have a heart attack because I was pushing so hard. You have to be able focus through this or you will lose your position and potential opportunities.  A good practical example is closing gaps.  Often breaks will get off the front of the peloton and if you want to join you have to jump the gap.  This can be very hard to do when the peloton is at speed.  It requires commitment and focus to sustain the effort needed to get there, as this will typically be an anaerobic effort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then once you close the gap you need to focus again on damage control.  You just did a huge anaerobic effort, you can't breath, and all you want to do is rest, but the group you just caught has collectively decided to jump again.  You need strong focus to work through this and stay in the draft of the break group you just caught.  If your focus slips for even a second a gap can form, meaning you will lose the draft and the gap will widen.  You will then either need to do another anaerobic effort to crawl back in (even more focus) or you will fall out of the lead group and get eaten up by the peloton. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losing focus for a split second at the wrong time in a 3-4 hr race can mean the end to your day. Lets say for example your concentration waned and you fell out of that lead group.  You now lost your draft and are in no-man's land.  The peloton is now fast approaching and actually surges as it catches you.  Before you know what happens you are going straight through the peloton and out the back before.  Now you are off the back of the peloton, with no hopes of crawling back in.  Your day is done, you have just pulled a hero to zero because your concentration waned for a few split seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other sports such as Baseball and golf also require great feats of intense concentration.  The exact type of concentration differs, but if you cannot focus you will not be a strong racer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skill: Knowing your body&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may seems silly to mention, but professional cyclists are incredibly in-tune with how their body functions.  Because races are so long you have to pre-emptively eat and drink.  Waiting unit you are hungry or thirsty is too late, by this point your metabolism will be slowing down and will take time to recover meaning a period of reduced performance. Eat and drink too much and you will feel bloated or sick.  It is a difficult job to know the exact amount to eat and drink and when.  This skill often takes a number of years to hon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skill: Being Anal Retentive&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road cyclists are often made fun of for being anal retentive, and it is a deserved title.  That said, it is also a very necessary skill.  Riding a bike is not a &quot;natural&quot; activity.  We didn't evolve to cycle, as such you have to train and practice to be good.  The better the training and knowledge of the finer details the faster you will go.  This can be everything from muscle recruitment (how you activate your leg muscles and core muscle through the pedal stroke), to your position on the bike, to having your equipment in optimal working form (I swear cleaning and keeping the derailleur pulleys in good working order can gain you 20 seconds in a 10km TT).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strong performance often happens when you get all the ducks lined up (including tactics).  To do this you have to have a little streak (or a lot) of anal retentiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T22:08:37.163" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T22:08:37.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10671" CreationDate="2012-08-08T01:59:02.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strategy, Strategy, Strategy! Road racing is an anaerobic chess game. It is rarely the strongest person who wins in a road race, but the smartest. Largely, this can only come with experience. That's something I don't have a ton of when it comes to road racing, but I can give you a couple of pointers if you're just getting into it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest tip I can give you is to spend as little time on the front as you can. Don't let the pack use you. I've seen this plenty of times before, especially with inexperienced but strong riders. The group will gladly let you hang yourself out to ride, so don't offer yourself up. Ever heard the term &quot;sit in to win?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, don't go with every breakaway. It seems exciting, but chances are all its going to do is rag you out. You need to choose your battles, and 99% of Cat5 breakaways aren't going to be worth taking part in as they're just going to get chased down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, get out of Cat5 as quick as you can. There's a reason it's called &quot;Crash5.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T01:59:02.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3556" CreationDate="2012-08-08T11:42:47.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been training with this book myself and have found it invaluable. It is easy to read and full of tried and tested training and nutritional advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x9Zn0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Serious cycling by E R. Burke&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to blogs this is a post I have found useful &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rapha.cc/winter-training&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rapha Winter Training &lt;/a&gt; there are other interesting posts on the site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some good information can be found on the Peloton magazine site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pelotonmagazine.com/Wisdom/content/19/947/Training-Part-I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peloton - Training Part 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4723" LastEditorUserId="4723" LastEditDate="2012-08-12T12:55:24.703" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T12:55:24.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10684" CreationDate="2012-08-08T12:38:26.160" Score="7" ViewCount="4078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in the UK and cycle to and from work. I recently noticed that the back brake on the bike is not functioning. Is it legal for me to be cycling on the road (the front brake works fine but it is a bit difficult to stop at, for example, pedestrian crossings)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4731" LastEditorUserId="4444" LastEditDate="2014-06-11T04:49:14.067" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T07:34:31.477" Title="The back brake on my bike is not functional, is it illegal for me to cycle in the United Kingdom?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;uk&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10686" CreationDate="2012-08-08T12:52:19.670" Score="12" ViewCount="2644" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the Olympic Final of the Men's &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keirin&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Keirin&lt;/a&gt; one competitor (Chris Hoy) was wearing an aero helmet (red helmet in the picture below), the other competitors wore normal helmets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9JolX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;helmets&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages of wearing an aero helmet seem pretty obvious - less drag so you go quicker (Chris Hoy won the gold medal). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most of the competitors did not wear an aero helmet so I can only assume that there are some disadvantages to wearing an aero helmet, &lt;strong&gt;what are they&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T08:21:44.440" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T17:35:04.333" Title="What are the disadvantages of wearing an aero helmet?" Tags="&lt;track-racing&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10682" CreationDate="2012-08-08T12:56:37.140" Score="11" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/DesktopDefault.aspx?TabID=4073&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yes, technically&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sorts of cycle are required to have at least two efficient braking systems, by which the front wheel (or wheels) can be braked independently of the rear wheel (or wheels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The likelihood of you receiving a ticket, fine, or other punishment is infinitesimal. It &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; happen, but it almost certainly will not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Practically, the front brake is much stronger than the rear brake. Most experienced road cyclists &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;almost exclusively use the front brake&lt;/a&gt;. Why is it &amp;quot;a bit difficult to stop&amp;quot; in some circumstances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That said, you should absolutely have it fixed. Having redundant brakes is important for your personal safety. Brakes and brake cables can fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T07:34:31.477" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10682" CreationDate="2012-08-08T13:16:53.400" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In England and Wales, the relevant legislation is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1983/1176/pdfs/uksi_19831176_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pedal Cycles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1983&lt;/a&gt; which say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7.—(1) ... (a) every pedal cycle shall be equipped with at least one braking system;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;   (b) every bicycle or tricycle the height of the saddle of which is 635 millimetres or more and every cycle with four or more wheels shall—&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;      (i) if it is so constructed that one or more of the wheels is incapable of rotating independently of the pedals, be equipped with a braking system operating on the front wheel ...;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;      (ii) if it is not so constructed that one or more of the wheels is incapable of rotating independently of the pedals, be equipped with two independent braking systems one of which operates on the front wheel ..., and the other of which operates on the rear wheel ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10.—(1) No person shall ride, or cause or permit to be ridden, on a road a pedal cycle ... unless the braking system or systems with which it is required to be fitted ... are in efficient working order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've elided a bunch of exceptions that apply to tricycles, quadricycles, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for an ordinary bicycle with a freewheel, it would be a criminal offence to ride it on a road unless you have two braking systems in efficient working order. (See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1988/52/section/41A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Road Traffic Act 1988 §41A&lt;/a&gt;.) But as Stephen Touset says, it would be unheard of for police to check your brakes unless you were involved in a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the front brake works fine but it is a bit difficult to stop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front brake should be easily sufficient on its own to stop quickly, so it sounds as if your front brake needs adjusting too. For your own safety and the safety of other road users, get your brakes fixed! There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=how%20to%20adjust%20bicycle%20brakes&amp;amp;tbm=vid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lots of instructional videos&lt;/a&gt; out there, or your local bike shop will be happy to do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="756" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T14:10:37.610" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2012-08-08T14:13:35.280" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're heavier, hotter (vents would do the opposite of what you're trying to do with an aero helmet, which is to route air up and over the helmet), and it's more difficult to turn your head (it doesn't completely prohibit turning your head but you lose the benefit of the shape as you turn it off-axis) so you have to depend on peripheral vision more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, if you wear one on a bike path while towing a kiddie stroller federal law requires all other riders (including small children riding Huffys) to treat you with &quot;derision and scorn&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T14:13:35.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10711" CreationDate="2012-08-08T15:46:38.657" Score="2" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a bit of the Omnium racing televised this week, and while most of the events are straightforward, the Elimination race seems to require far deeper tactics than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be just because I have never taken part in one of these, but can anyone here explain how to approach an elimination race in the format used at the Olympics (ie a sprint every 2 laps, last one is eliminated)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My simplistic view suggests staying in the middle of the pack is key, but that's not how any of the races panned out, with wild breaks at seemingly random intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T21:47:05.343" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T21:47:05.343" Title="Elimination race tactics" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;racing-strategy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10690" CreationDate="2012-08-08T16:25:45.143" Score="7" ViewCount="5434" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is VO2 MAX and how is a measurement taken? By how much can VO2 MAX be increased in the average person? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4723" LastEditorUserId="4723" LastEditDate="2012-08-12T12:53:06.513" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T00:33:40.947" Title="Simple plain English explanation of VO2 MAX" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10719" CreationDate="2012-08-08T17:17:36.187" Score="5" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I find out which channel size I need in my seat? I am male and want what is the healthiest choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4734" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T16:25:34.507" Title="How do I find out which channel size I need in my seat?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10688" CreationDate="2012-08-08T17:19:04.903" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;VO2 Max refers to the maximum volume of oxygen that an individual can use at maximum levels of intense aerobic exercise. It is usually reported as as milliliters of oxygen used in one minute per kilogram of body weight, though sometimes you see liters of oxygen per minute with no adjustment for body weight. The former measurement is more useful in exercise and sports science since it allows the measurement to be compared among athletes of widely different weights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is usually measured in a fitness lab setting using either an exercise bike or a treadmill. The test subject wears a mask and heart rate monitor. The mask is connected to a device that collects and measures of the volume and oxygen concentration of inhaled and exhaled air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point below maximum effort the body switches from aerobic to anerobic processes to generate energy. Exercise intensity is increased gradually until the subject is at a maximum aerobic effort - beyond which there is not or only negligible increase in oxygen uptake. That is the VO2 Max point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how much it can be increased in any individual, and there are both genetic and exercise components. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/anatomyandphysiology/a/VO2_max.htm&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; lists that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The average for a sedentary individual is close to 35 ml/kg/min. Elite endurance athletes often average 70 ml/kg/min. One of the highest recorded VO2 max results (90 ml/kg/min) was that of a cross country skier. Cyclist Lance Armstrong's VO2 max was reported at 85 ml/kg/min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For even more detail, including the associated math, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VO2_max&quot;&gt;Wikipedia: V02 Max&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T17:19:04.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10688" CreationDate="2012-08-08T17:23:19.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vo2 Max is a measure of 2 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Physical lung capacity --  This a measurement of the actual cubic feet of airspace available in your lungs.  This is a genetic factor, which cannot be trained up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to transfer oxygen in your blood stream. Increased red blood cell counts mean more carriers available to transport oxygen to the active muscles in your body. This can be increased through exercise or drugs. The latter course, drugs, while common will bar you from any competition, and is both dangerous and illegal.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of the 2 gives you your oxygen consumption rate, which is also known as Vo2 Max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;VO2 max (also maximal oxygen consumption, maximal oxygen uptake, peak oxygen uptake or maximal aerobic capacity) is the maximum capacity of an individual's body to transport and use oxygen during incremental exercise, which reflects the physical fitness of the individual. The name is derived from V - volume, O2 - oxygen, max - maximum.&#xA;  VO2 max is expressed either as an absolute rate in litres of oxygen per minute (l/min) or as a relative rate in millilitres of oxygen per kilogram of bodyweight per minute (ml/kg/min). The latter expression is often used to compare the performance of endurance sports athlete&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T17:23:19.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10689" CreationDate="2012-08-08T19:08:40.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will depend on what kind of bike you have, and what kind of riding you do. Are you a commuter? If so you may want a wide, padded seat, and a wide channel. If you are a sprint racer you may not need a channel at all, as you will be standing so you just want a narrow seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day, try some and see what is comfortable - everyone is different. Mine has a negligible channel, but the shape of the seat is such that my 16 mile commute to work is still comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T19:08:40.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7887" CreationDate="2012-08-08T19:42:15.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet would be to add spacers under your stem, get a top-load stem, and/or get taller bars. Also, keep in mind that bmx bikes aren't really designed for comfortable seated pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T19:42:15.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10697" CreationDate="2012-08-08T20:17:02.543" Score="21" ViewCount="11232" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7420/while-pedaling-standing-up-bike-crank-gives-in-as-if-shifting-what-is-causing&quot;&gt;While pedaling standing up, bike crank gives in as if shifting, what is causing this?&lt;/a&gt; , I was thinking &quot;one should probably not be standing up to pedal under normal circumstances&quot;. Is this an accurate assumption? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remain seated while pedaling but I am not sure if it's right, or how to justify why one should not stand, other than it may be unsafe due to unpredictability in the drive train. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I shift gears to make the bicycle easier to pedal so that I can remain seated at all times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should we &lt;strong&gt;remain seated&lt;/strong&gt; at almost all times when on a multi-gear cycle? Why? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T13:51:09.397" Title="Is standing up and pedaling on multi-gear bicycles a bad idea" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2012-08-08T21:03:56.607" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't really any reason you can't stand while pedaling. If your drive train is not adjusted properly then they will experience skipping or mis-shifting. That's an entirely separate issue from being able to stand up and pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T21:03:56.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2012-08-08T21:04:14.780" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;As (almost) always, the great Sheldon Brown has covered this particular topic. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/standing.html&quot;&gt;Standing while Cycling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To Sit or to Stand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is my belief that a great many cyclists stand up to pedal much more often than they should. I've often said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;If you find yourself standing to accelerate, on level ground, it is a sign that your gear is too high or that your saddle is too low.&quot;&#xA;  Standing pedaling allows you to apply more force to the pedals than is possible seated, because you can rest your entire weight on the driven pedal, and, even more, by pulling up on the handlebar, you can push the pedal with more than your actual weight...but is this a good thing?&#xA;  Pedaling that hard is very stressful to the joints, and to the bicycle, and usually involves a level of effort that cannot be sustained aerobically. Unless you have unusually good form, it also tends to involve a fair amount of thrashing from side to side, which is a waste of energy. The added stress flexes many parts of the bicycle, and the energy required to do this flexing is not usually recovered when the parts straighten back out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These extreme stresses also greatly increase the risk of breaking things. If a pedal, crank, chain, handlebar or handlebar stem should break under this abnormal stress (a very real possibility) you are almost certain to suffer injury in the resulting crash. Even a simple missed shift or the skipping of a worn chain can toss you to the ground when you throw all of your weight onto a single pedal. You should never stand up to pedal a bicycle that you do not know to be in excellent mechanical condition!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastEditorUserId="3573" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T06:39:20.770" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T06:39:20.770" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10702" CreationDate="2012-08-08T22:12:59.950" Score="9" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of the channel in my seat? Is it just for comfort or does it have some medical benefits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4734" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T23:08:13.393" Title="What is the purpose of the channel in my seat?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-08T22:49:43.463" Score="6" ViewCount="3112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I've read every post here about V-brake squeal, as well as the popular ones on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown site&lt;/a&gt;, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tools guide&lt;/a&gt; and so forth - but I seem to have a brake squeal that just won't abate, and I'd like a 2nd (and 3rd and 4th opinion) before I replace the last few components I haven't yet replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've a Trek 7.3 hybrid bike, around 2009 vintage - it has a 700C Bontrager alloy rim and Avid Single Digit 3 v-brakes (which I believe are OEM only). About 9 months after owning it and riding about 8 kilometres a day 4 days a week it developed a brake squeal at the front - strangely the back brakes have never been a problem and they work really well. &quot;No problem,&quot; I thought, and I cleaned the rim (using a steelo/600grit sandpaper) and toed in the brakes slightly - which fixed it adequately, although temporarily. This process is something I've repeated over the last few years - eventually replacing the worn down pads with a few different styles of cartridge pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the squeal has been steadily growing to the point where the I needed stupid amount of toe to stop it - which really just gave me brakes with questionable efficacy. I eventually swapped to a Kool Stop pads - though again this fix was temporary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a 700C wheel, I toyed with going to the style of brakes most road bikes have - but I lack the appropriate mounting hole in the front forks - and the tools with which to make one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noting that there was a reasonable amount of play in the bushes on each brake arm (they're integral to the arm), I bit the bullet and ordered a set of Avid Single Digit 7 brakes, to replace the brakes on the bike. Pulling the old brakes off I noticed the brake bosses on the frame appeared to be bent - so I replaced those too. I cleaned the daylights out of the rim, again with steelo, a quick run over with 600grit sandpaper and an application of automotive brake cleaner to remove any oil (it seems to be a lot cheaper than isopropyl alcohol here and appears to work well - also, I had some close at hand). I also make sure I clean the surface of the pads removing any grit and give them a with once-over with a clean bit of sandpaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following a number of guides, I installed and set up the new brakes and they are excellent for the most part; the arms are meatier and have far less flex in them and the return adjustment, and adjustment in general, seems to be easier setup and control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they still squeal, loudly - in the dry, in the wet, night and day. And granted, terrifying j-walking pedestrians with the noise can be fun - but I don't think it's doing me any favours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given that I've replaced the brake bosses, the brake arms, the brake pads and removed cleaned, re-greased and refitted the forks - that really only leaves the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I replace the rim, or do I just deal with the squeaking? Or have I missed something really obvious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An update on my progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the front wheel with a 2nd hand one in excellent condition (having been recently respoked and trued) - some sort of lightweight Ritchey thing. The wheel had been used by a chap who'd commuted a decent distance on it every day and had had no problems with squeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cleaned the rim with 600 grit glasspaper, then automotive brake cleaner and a steelo, wiped clean with paper towel. I then cleaned it with methylated spirits and again wiped it clean with a paper towel. This removed all the old traces of brake pad grit and oil and let me check that the surface of the rim was flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took off the Avid cartridge pads supplied with the Single Digit 5 brakes and, after cleaning them up with sand paper and a wipe of methylated spirits, put the Koolstop single  compound 'orange' pads back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusted the brakes to make sure they sat on the rim properly (they're slightly thicker than the Avid pads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And still it squeals!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, I'm thinking I just have one of those very resonant frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is the replace the forks - but I'm in no rush to that anytime soon give the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still wondering if I've missed something obvious!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4737" LastEditorUserId="4737" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T08:59:53.037" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T19:30:12.577" Title="Have replaced v-brakes and they still squeak. What to do? " Tags="&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10705" CreationDate="2012-08-08T23:00:49.050" Score="14" ViewCount="6011" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot;&gt;Wheelbuilding&lt;/a&gt; page links to the article: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm&quot;&gt;Check Spoke Tension by Ear&lt;/a&gt;. Obviously a tensiometer would be ideal, but Sheldon suggests that checking spoke tension by ear is a reasonable alternative. The article was written in 1987 and updated in 1997; are there any developments from the last 10 to 20 years that would invalidate the technique or require adaptation? For example, the article mentions that dished wheels require a different pitch on the left and right sides, but how great should this difference in pitch be? In general, how effective is tensioning by ear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T00:01:16.957" Title="How effective is checking spoke tension by ear?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10699" CreationDate="2012-08-08T23:08:13.393" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the channel in a bike saddle is to reduce pressure to the perineum, which can cause numbness and other long-term problems. This is a matter of both comfort and health, although not everyone is affected. Individual body type, saddle design, bike fit, and riding style work together to make saddle fit a very personal issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a related note, some of the worries about erectile disfunction seem to be overstated, though this is still an open area of research. See: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicyclehabitat.com/articles/saddle-seats-and-erectile-dysfunction-the-myth-exploded-pg97.htm&quot;&gt;Saddle Seats and Erectile Dysfunction - The myth Exploded&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T23:08:13.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2012-08-08T23:58:16.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pedaling in standing position usually serves at least two primary purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To compensate for a shifting error. I.e. if one forgets to downshift before an incline, one can try to power oneself out of this situation by quickly switching to a standing position. It is inefficient, but in many cases it is a better idea then attempting a downshift under high loads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To stretch the body by temporarily switching to a different riding position.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastEditorUserId="2918" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T17:17:59.457" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T17:17:59.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10700" CreationDate="2012-08-09T00:34:08.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a chance the rim is wearing out? Have you tried a different wheel? Have you tried toeing the brakes in the opposite direction? It sounds like you've tried just about everything else. I'm leaning towards the wheel being the issue. Otherwise it sounds like the frame is just prone to resonance with the vibration of the brakes. I've got a mtb frame that doest this horribly with the back brake. Several friends have the same frame with different brakes but the same issue. Some frames are just more likely to resonate than others, though it's usually more of a wheel issue with rim brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T00:34:08.323" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10701" CreationDate="2012-08-09T01:02:08.710" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on how good your ear is. If you can tune a stringed instrument effectively, then tensioning a wheel by ear is very effective. Identical spokes that have the same pitch when plucked should have the same tension within the margin of error for any tensiometer reading. The catch is you need a tensiometer to get the relative tone for the proper kg/f tension on the spokes, unless you have &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absolute_pitch&quot;&gt;perfect pitch&lt;/a&gt; and can remember up to four different tones for a single wheelset.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Keep in mind that for a wheel with any amount of dish, the tension, spoke length, and therefore the pitch, will almost certainly be different from one side of the wheel to the other. Therefore, once you have your tone for a given kg/f reading it will only be accurate for one side of one wheel (there are exceptions, such as a front road wheel, or a flip flop rear wheel). Flange heights and spacing vary from front to rear hub and side to side as well, also with some exceptions. Also worth noting that different gauges and shapes of spokes of the same length and tension will have a different ring to them. &lt;br&gt;In short, don't assume that the pitch of properly tensioned spokes on one side of one wheel apply to the rest of the spokes on the wheelset, and certainly don't use the pitch of a spoke on a wheel as a reference for a completely different type of wheel.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Anecdotally, I was discussing this very issue with a friend of mine the other day. He said that he believed tensioning by pitch gave a valid reading, but that he couldn't do it because he was mostly tone-deaf. So to reiterate, if you don't have a pretty good ear musically, then this isn't a viable method of checking tension.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To summarize, with a good ear you can use pitch to check tension on spokes, but it's more of a timesaver than a replacement for a tensiometer as you need a baseline tone at proper tension to check the rest of the spokes against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T02:52:10.260" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T02:52:10.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2012-08-09T03:55:45.487" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Hicks sentiment that the crank &quot;giving&quot; is more likely due to worn parts or misalignment.  The crank would have to flex a lot to actually be responsible for ghost shifting, which would make it incredibly poor quality.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/standing.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon's article&lt;/a&gt; strikes me as cursory for &quot;When Should You Stand&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have the gearing for whatever you're riding (reasonable terrain), yes - there shouldn't be a need to stand to pedal.  Bypassing what Sheldon covered about gearing and saddle height...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a road riding perspective, standing takes less effort because you can use body weight rather than legs to crank over.  It's used a lot when hill climbing - gives the legs a rest, and the opportunity to sprint when others don't know to.  The gist I got recently was &quot;if others are standing, so should you&quot; - it struck me as prudent if you don't know the route, otherwise ride as you feel comfortable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standing is often used to initiate a sprint on more level ground, to get the momentum up.  But depending on the speed, being out of the saddle can mean your body is creating more drag -- counteracting what you intended to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stood while mountain biking on a hard tail (no rear suspension), for psuedo-suspension.  I remember my quads getting a workout until I built up the strength.  I still habitually take weight off my saddle when riding road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T03:55:45.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10562" CreationDate="2012-08-09T12:21:14.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm happy with my Radon R1 4.0! Their bikes usually receive high ratings in German bicycle magazines and I would personally recommend it. It's a good no-nonsense combination of Ultegra, 105 and FSA components with Mavic Aksium wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The R1 are currently in end-of-season sale, so you can get a real bargain. Not worth going for the RPS me thinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother too much with sizing details. Even a test ride won't tell you too much about a bicycle. As long as you are sure that you want a racing geometry, get the right frame size and adjust details to your personal preference. See this page and the linked document for sizing of Radon bikes: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radon-bikes.de/xist4c/web/Correct-frame-size_id_9343_.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.radon-bikes.de/xist4c/web/Correct-frame-size_id_9343_.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The company behind Radon bikes has been around in Bonn (my place of birth) for at least 20 years. My bike was delivered to England, but as someone else noted, you can buy and test ride it in their shop in Bonn (or in Majorca, if you fancy a holiday trip).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4621" LastEditorUserId="4621" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T12:28:16.353" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T12:28:16.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2012-08-09T12:41:57.293" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd agree with most that has been said (Campagnolo excepted, some people just don't get simplicity!). Like most things, practice makes things easier by a combination of strength build up and technique refinement. I regularly do distances of 40+ miles on my fg and haven't changed cogs, position, equipment once it works. So much is psychological rather than physical!  I guess that if you read this after a year or so riding ss you've either cracked the difficulty and are gloating, or you're still finding hills tough. Hope it's the former!&#xA;My wife has just got a ss and loves the immediacy of riding up hills.&#xA;You say you're young and strong, as a 60 year old I guess I could say that my fg is keeping me old and strong!&#xA;Enjoy.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4744" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T12:41:57.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10687" CreationDate="2012-08-09T13:25:06.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Staying in the middle is the worst thing to do as you can get boxed in unable to sprint your way out of trouble and the riders at the back can come around the top of you and drop you. You are reasonably safe at the front until there are fairly few riders left as it will be difficult for the whole group to come around you and you can sprint your way out of trouble. You are also ok at the back as you are in the slip stream of the group and can use that to slingshot the person in front at the crucial moment and sprint for the line. What you don't want to do is stay in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T13:25:06.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10725" CreationDate="2012-08-09T13:56:31.087" Score="6" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the first place, if the title is not properly describing my question, please edit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact is: the bike advocacy groups of my city are slowly getting some attention from City Hall, and bicycle culture is slowly growing, with some cycle paths and education campaigns. The growing of bikers, in the other hand, is much faster, and there are a lot of people prone to advocacy and putting pressure on the politicians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are beginning to think about asking to build a public velodrome (track), nothing fancy, but something that would allow regular folks, respecting some rules of course, to train in a controlled environment instead of in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is (and now come the questions):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can city hall perceive any positive effects of having a velodrome, so as to justify investment? Should we mention racing events, and such?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normally, the cities which have velodromes allow non-track bikes to train there? What are the common restrictions for use of a public velodrome?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What should we care about, in terms of size, surface type and other norms, in order not to end up building a track that could not be used in official events?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much for reading and for any advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T23:54:33.860" Title="What is the usual pattern of use of a velodrome (cycling track)?" Tags="&lt;advocacy&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10723" CreationDate="2012-08-09T14:40:10.280" Score="12" ViewCount="29001" Body="&lt;p&gt;After truing my front wheel, it seems that it is laterally true.  However, the spoke tension seem very uneven, with a few spokes that are very taut next to other spokes which are more loose.  If it was a small difference, I wouldn't be too concern, but it seems a bit too big of a difference in tension that has me worried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have access to a tension meter and a pro-grade truing stand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I fix this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I loosen all the spokes and start from scratch or fine tune the existing setup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2018-05-10T14:33:07.440" Title="Spoke tension is way off but wheel is true, How do I fix this" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4687" CreationDate="2012-08-09T14:41:05.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This year Bradley Wiggins used the Pinarello Dogma 2 (frame only)- which costs just under £4k. Found this cool article on what bikes the Olympic gold medalists use that you might find useful...&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theranktank.com/blog/2012/08/deciding-which-bike-to-get-look-at-what-our-olympians-ride-/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.theranktank.com/blog/2012/08/deciding-which-bike-to-get-look-at-what-our-olympians-ride-/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4745" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T13:57:22.527" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T13:57:22.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10713" CreationDate="2012-08-09T15:05:11.533" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the adjacent spokes with different tension are on the same side of the wheel, then you could, to a certain amount, release the tension from the tight one and tighten the loose one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are each on one side of the wheel, you could not even the tesion without untruing the wheel, and that means your rim is not intrinsically true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rim is not intrinsically true (that is, it would not look true if the spokes are removed), you could try to &quot;bend&quot; the rim in place this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make spoke tension be equal on every spoke;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With an inflated tire, hit the out-of center parts or the TIRE against, say, a tree, while grabbing THE TIRE with your hands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it seems too violent, it has worked as magic with my acquaintances (who sometimes bend their wheels falling during rides).&#xA;Hopefully, though, the problem is just uneven tension in spokes on the same side of the wheel, so this beating would not be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T15:05:11.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7803" CreationDate="2012-08-09T15:48:35.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A new product, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spybike.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SpyBike&lt;/a&gt;, is out on the market and it partially negates the claims I made in my previous answer. The website is hideous, but the general idea appears to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sits invisibly in your head tube, under your stem cap. You wave a keyfob over it to &quot;activate&quot; it when you leave your bike somewhere. This way, it remains completely disabled and therefore doesn't drain the battery when not in use. When activated, it enables low-power vibration sensors (again, preventing the battery from being drained). If it detects constant vibration for more than a few seconds, it uses an embedded SIM card with 2G data plan to send you a text message notifying you, and enables a GPS tracker. GPS coordinates are sent to their tracking software over the data plan, and you can view live updates on its location from your browser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're set on using GPS to track your bike, this product seems like it might be at least tolerable, if somewhat of a pain to set up initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="36359" LastEditDate="2018-05-28T20:15:24.043" LastActivityDate="2018-05-28T20:15:24.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10724" CreationDate="2012-08-09T16:10:23.103" Score="9" ViewCount="7297" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning I noticed that my wheel was suddenly out of true and rubbing against the brake pad at one point. My first guess was that I had broken a spoke, but all of them seem to be intact. A few spokes seem less taut than the others, but none of them are loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recall hitting any major potholes. Is it possible for an obstacle to bend the rim without being a big enough obstacle for me to notice? Should I just true the wheel and move on with my life, or is there anything else I should be careful about? Other than a broken spoke, what would cause a wheel to suddenly go out of true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T18:12:40.323" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T18:12:40.323" Title="What causes a wheel to suddenly go out of true?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10688" CreationDate="2012-08-09T16:19:52.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One note about VO2 max, is that it is becoming more and more an academic interest number, as studies are increasingly showing that it is a poor predictor of actual performance. The two numbers that are becoming more important/relevant are vVO2max, and tlimvVO2max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;vVO2max is the minimum running/cycling speed at which your VO2 max level is attained, and after a few minutes of which, additional power has to come from anaerobic sources. This number is receiving increased attention (especially in running) as economy of motion is becoming a factor. A more efficient athlete will be traveling faster when they hit VO2max, so their vVO2max is higher than a less efficient athlete. In cycling (especially for TT), aerodynamics and proper fit will increase economy (Getting more speed out of the same effort). In aerodynamics I include losing weight, as a larger person presents a larger wind profile, efficiency would be enhanced through a proper fit, and comfort/familiarity on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tlimvVO2max is simply the time limiter for VO2 max, or how long you can continue to keep your pace once you've hit your VO2 max. If two cyclists both hit their VO2 max at 26mph, but cyclist A has a tlim of 10 minutes, while cyclist B has a tlim of 15 minutes, cyclist B will win. (Assuming the finish line isn't 10 minutes away :p)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both tlimv and vVO2 can be increased through greater efficiency and training, while VO2 is a relatively static number, and really only indicates potential, so while VO2max is an interesting number to know, simply knowing it won't really help you change anything in your training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T16:49:25.507" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T16:49:25.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10689" CreationDate="2012-08-09T16:25:34.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much all of the cutouts in modern seats will achieve the desired effect (less pressure on the nerves that run through the crotch area), so it comes down to what is most comfortable for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few different models out there, such as ISM Adomo, Cobb saddles, Fizik, etc. Many people that are quite comfortable on one are not comfortable on another. Your best bet is to find a cycling or triathlon shop that has a &quot;try and swap&quot; arrangement, i.e. if you try it for a couple weeks and find it really uncomfortable, you can swap it for a different model/brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T16:25:34.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10712" CreationDate="2012-08-09T16:36:57.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I don't think that a velodrome would accomplish what you are intending, taking the public from the streets to the track. Riding on the banks of a velodrome (Unless it's wide/long such as the 'drome at the end of Paris-Roubaix) is an accomplished skill, so what I'm afraid you'd have is a bunch of riders doing laps at the bottom of the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, unless you make a velodrome the size of Indianapolis Speedway, it's going to be size prohibitive for being able to accommodate a lot of riders, it would quickly become very congested and nearly as dangerous for untrained/average riders as the street with a bike lane. And, your serious track riders will not use it during public hours for that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a strong advocacy group, I would lobby for more bike lanes, public awareness of the 3 foot laws, more off the road bike paths and other safety/training opportunities than a limited use velodrome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T16:36:57.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-09T16:48:20.810" Score="1" ViewCount="4606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a paint expert and want to make a choice that will last a few years. I know that powder coating will last a long time, but I'm restoring an older bike and don't want to spend too much. Maybe someone has a creative solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4734" LastEditorUserId="4734" LastEditDate="2012-08-12T17:27:13.490" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T17:27:13.490" Title="Is there a quality alternative to powder coating when it comes to repainting a steel frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10721" CreationDate="2012-08-09T17:01:19.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of steel? IIRC, powder coating/anodizing can't be done on all metals, and some metals have less options and are more costly (Such as Ti frames). Also, you have to consider the effect of the heat in the process on the welds, and whether they will be affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A paint job will probably never be as durable as powdercoating or anodizing, but unless you're really hard on your bikes, the only places you might notice it are on the unders of the bike where rocks may strike, and you can get clear protectors for those areas if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to consider is if you want customization. Take a site such as HotTubes and the paint jobs they have produced, you aren't going to be able to get that with a baked finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T17:01:19.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10713" CreationDate="2012-08-09T17:04:53.427" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reference, I used to work for Velomax Wheels, and Easton Wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to back all of the spokes off an equal amount, say 5 or 10 turns.  This will give you a little bit of room for adjustment, without having to completely detention the entire wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a book called &quot;the Bicycle Wheel&quot;, by Jobst Brandt, that does a great job of walking you through the process of truing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to tell if the spokes are of equal tension is to pluck them like guitar strings.  Since they are all of the same length and same thickness, equal tone means equal tension.  (We used to attach an electronic &quot;pick up&quot; to our truing stands, and wear headphones so we could better hear the differences when we plucked the spokes.  This shouldn't be necessary say, in your garage where there is a lot less ambient noise.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple tips for truing (though you may know these already):&#xA;- Be sure to back off any adjustment that you make on a singular nipple. This will eliminate any possible spoke 'wind-up&quot; caused by the twisting of the nipple.  (example - if you want to make a 1/4 turn adjustment, turn the nipple a 1/2 turn and then back off 1/4.)&#xA;- Be sure to give adjacent spokes a soft squeeze to help the spokes and nipples settle.&#xA;- check for cracked nipples and cracks at or near holes in rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it is true, then you can bring all spokes back up to tension (the 5 or 10 turns that you originally made.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truing stands are very helpful in holding the wheel in the right position to make your adjustments.  (Rather than trying to do it in your hands or in the bicycle frame/fork.)  they also typically have a measurement pin or finger that helps show where (and to what degree) the wheel is out of true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tensiometers are okay devices.  Here are a couple of their downfalls: 1-no two are the same and they come out of calibration quite easily. 2-several factors, such as how you hold the tensio on the spoke and where you place the tensio on the spoke, influence the gauge reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4746" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T17:04:53.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10717" CreationDate="2012-08-09T17:11:39.523" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't hit anything and you haven't parked your bike on a busy bike rack (other tires getting accidentally rammed into your spokes), the most likely culprit is a nipple vibrating loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see if this is a likely possibility fairly easily...one, maybe two, of your spokes will be noticeably loose...less tension then the surrounding spokes (compare to spokes on same side if a rear tire...can be different tension to each side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is in fact the case, it's something to be a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; bit worried about in that you shouldn't just true the wheel and go on. If a nipple is working itself loose you will need to do something to keep it from doing so again. Generally a nipple will only work loose if it's damaged or if there wasn't spoke prep (similar to loctite) on the spoke when it was built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For damage you'll notice a crack upon close inspection or it may be &quot;squashed&quot;...no longer square...this happens when someone bottoms out the nipple while building it or in some cases of too much tension...this out of square can quickly lead to the nipple cracking. If this is the case, remove the nipple and replace. Retrue, check round and dish and get back on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's just loose, you're (MOSTLY - see below) in luck as it's the easier fix. Loosen the spoke even more, add some STUFF (see below) to the spoke threads and then retrue, check round and dish and get back on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;STUFF - You need to put something on your spoke's threads to keep the nipple from working loose under vibration. The purists will claim that only spoke prep should be used and that loctite will ruin your wheel. I disagree. I've built several sets of wheels when I didn't have spoke prep around and fixed many more and I'm happing using blue loctite (NOT RED). If you can find it green loctite is probably an even better choice. If you have money to burn, go ahead and pick up some spoke prep...it's good stuff, just pricey for someone who is not getting paid to build wheels. If you use blue loctite, just a tiny bit will do it. If you use spoke prep, make sure to let it dry a bit before tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MOSTLY - I said that you were &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; in luck. The downside is that if there was no spoke prep on this spoke, there may not be any on other spokes. You'll want to check it. Some spoke prep has a bit of color and you can back a nipple a couple of turns and see (barely) a bit of blue or orange. Loosing a spoke during a fast decent can be very dangerous so if in any doubt take the wheel to someone who builds them and have it checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T17:11:39.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10712" CreationDate="2012-08-09T17:15:49.420" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Velodromes are not a suitable cycling venue for members of the general public. They require specialized equipment (e.g., higher bottom brackets to avoid pedal strikes), training (e.g., no moving up/down track without ensuring you have room, maintaining enough speed in corners), and discipline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expecting untrained riders and/or unsupervised novices to ride on the track is practically begging for crashes, injuries, and lawsuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example of restrictions on use of public velodromes, the Dick Lane Velodrome in East Point, Georgia was built as a public venue. Control over operations was granted to a 501(c)3 nonprofit, the East Point Velodrome Association. It is operated as a sporting venue. Members of the public are allowed to ride on the velodrome during unscheduled hours provided they have signed a release waiver, are accompanied by at least one other person, and have completed a weekend-long training course. Track bicycles are required, with the single exception of pursuit-style events, where riders may (but for all intents and purposes never do) ride a standard road bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheaper and more appropriate for your purposes would be to petition the city to build a circuit. Essentially, just a mile-or-so long, limited-access, paved bicycle path that loops back onto itself. No banking necessary, and bike paths are cheap and fast to build. You're not constrained to a flat oval, and turns need not be sharp enough to require banking for fast riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T18:44:11.997" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T18:44:11.997" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10567" CreationDate="2012-08-09T19:13:52.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technique I describe here is covered very nicely in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/teach-child-to-ride-a-bike.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a video at REI's web site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My adult wife learned to ride at a local free workshop in Brooklyn two years back.  See if there's a local class / workshop in your area.  It took all of two hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The class was held in a large, vacant asphalt lot.  The students were taught how to properly adjust the helmet, and given lightly-padded fingerless gloves.  (If you lose control and fall, that's where you're likely to hit the hardest.)  They were then given bikes with low seats and took off the pedals.  The students took some time walking the bikes, getting used to balance, stopping with their feet, then walking a bit faster and learning the brakes.  After 30-45 minutes the pedals were put back on the bikes and well ... basically, everyone was now riding bikes around the lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grass would seem a bad idea, in my opinion, because you have to pedal all that much harder.  Take a smooth surface at low speed and start with your feet on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2481" LastEditorUserId="2481" LastEditDate="2012-09-01T01:47:50.890" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T01:47:50.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10682" CreationDate="2012-08-09T21:37:05.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to note something from another country, in France you must have two brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tout cycle doit être muni de deux dispositifs de freinage efficaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(From the road code, art. R315-3, &quot;All bicycles must have two functioning brakes.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have two brakes, you can be fined €11, although usually cops don't care about bikes as long as you're not drunk-riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4676" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T21:37:05.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10682" CreationDate="2012-08-09T22:17:16.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No answer for the original poster, but maybe interesting for readers in Germany:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(1) Alle Fahrzeuge müssen eine ausreichende Bremse haben, die während der Fahrt leicht bedient werden kann und ihre Wirkung erreicht, ohne die Fahrbahn zu beschädigen. Fahrräder müssen zwei voneinander unabhängige Bremsen haben&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Translation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(1) All vehicles require a sufficient brake, which can be handled easily during the ride/driving and which reaches it impact without damaging the road. Bicycles require two independent brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gesetze-im-internet.de/stvzo_2012/__65.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Straßenverkehrs-Zulassungs-Ordnung §65&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T22:17:16.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-09T22:46:16.707" Score="3" ViewCount="2427" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tensioning a front wheel is - at least in theory - very simple: Go around and tighten each nipple by e.g. a quarter turn. Then re-adjust trueness if necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess if I'd do the same to a typical road rear wheel (with freehub / 10 speed cassette), it would loose the 'dishing'. Is there a rule-of-thumb for this, e.g. something like &quot;3/8 turns on the drive side, 1/4 turns on the other&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4621" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T23:23:20.063" Title="Tensioning rear wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10730" CreationDate="2012-08-09T23:20:05.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are just tightening it up, you should not have a problem keeping the same rules as the front. When you are assembling the when is when the hard part comes, as far as keeping the hub aligned properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't suggest doing a 1/4 turn all the way around on either wheel. The spokes all come lose at different rates and for different reasons. My suggestion is to go through and get all the spokes evenly snug, barely past loose. If there are snug ones don't turn it at all, if they are loose, turn it 3 or 4 full times if it needs it, just get them all roughly even, but no need to loosen any if they feel too tight, that is for later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have them all barely snug, go through another time and tighten them up to proper spec tension. In the bike shop we had a torque wrench for the nipples, but if you don't have one, just tighten it up to what feels right. They don't need to be nearly as tight as your axle nuts, they will strip pretty easy if you over tighten them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to true them, it is best to use a stand, but you can tape a stick to the forks, or just use the breaks as a rough guide. Tighten the 4 spokes opposite the wobble. Just don't go over board, you could &quot;egg&quot; your wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T23:20:05.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10730" CreationDate="2012-08-09T23:23:20.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd still do an even small turn of the wrench, one side at a time, then re-evaluate. What side, if any, will require a bigger twist to keep things in dish may depend on a variety of factors. It will probably balance out fairly evenly. Non drive side has more leverage, drive side has more tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, are you using a tensiometer? There is more to properly retensioning a wheel than just giving all the spokes a little twist. If you want your wheels to last, you need to have &lt;em&gt;even&lt;/em&gt; tension, not just tension...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T23:23:20.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10735" CreationDate="2012-08-10T00:49:12.680" Score="0" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an app similar to the Nike+ app but for cycling. I'm mostly concerned with distance, calories and average speed. Elevation tracking would be awesome. Does your recommendation pair with a desktop app as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4734" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T00:06:14.667" Title="Is there an easy to use app for tracking my cycling performance? (iOS or Android)" Tags="&lt;software&gt;&lt;performance-tracking&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-08-23T20:05:45.110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10721" CreationDate="2012-08-10T01:24:56.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10360/is-there-any-difference-between-professionally-painting-a-car-and-a-bike-frame&quot;&gt;Is there any difference between professionally painting a car and a bike frame?&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of suggestions about powder coating.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4183/diy-painting-a-bike-frame-is-it-possible&quot;&gt;DIY Painting a Bike Frame: Is it possible?&lt;/a&gt; talks about stove enamel as an alternative to powder coating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T01:24:56.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10733" CreationDate="2012-08-10T01:59:52.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many apps available for iOS and Android. Some of the big names:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://strava.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://endomondo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EndoMondo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://runkeeper.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Runkeeper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mapmyride.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MapMyRide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sports-tracker.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sports Tracker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They all have a mobile application that tracks your ride and then uploads it to a central server, accessible via a website. The website often provides reports and breakdowns of your performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also add elevation data, but I'm not sure how accurate it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional performance metrics can be added through the use of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ANT+&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ANT+&lt;/a&gt; compatible devices to allow monitoring speed, cadence, heart rate and many more metrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal favorite, having evaluated all of them, is Strava. It is free, has a unique feature of tracking &quot;Segments&quot; of your ride, where you can see your performance for shorter stretches of your overall ride, relative to your past performance and also to other riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/166/what-is-a-good-iphone-app-for-bikers&quot;&gt;What is a good iphone app for bikers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/9362/1588&quot;&gt;What map / navigation / bike direction apps are available for the iphone for commuting / urban cycling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1689/1588&quot;&gt;Bicycling apps for Android [closed]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T00:06:14.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10733" CreationDate="2012-08-10T03:30:09.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclemeter.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cycle Meter&lt;/a&gt; is by far my favorite due to its ease of use, functionality (syncs with everything), and support.  the company rocks, the app rocks, and it's cheap when compared to an standalone garmin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="499" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T03:30:09.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10721" CreationDate="2012-08-10T03:33:57.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of business that will strip/repaint a bicycle frame using quality paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclart.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cyclart&lt;/a&gt; (Some customers report &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/646355-Disappointing-Cyclart-experience&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;issues with their service&lt;/a&gt;, however);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yellowjersey.org/rpn.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yellow Jersey&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Color-Factory/149644665079264&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Color Factory&lt;/a&gt; advertises in Velo News, $140 for a repaint with Imron;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joesbicyclepainting.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joe's Bicycle Painting&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://campyonly.com/joebell/price_list.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joe Bell's Bicycle Refinishing&lt;/a&gt;;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=bicycle+refinishing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;And the list goes on...&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T03:33:57.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10746" CreationDate="2012-08-10T05:12:45.177" Score="20" ViewCount="16967" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching the BMX racing on the 2012 Olympics and the gearing seems incredibly low. About half way down the start ramp they are already going too fast to keep pedalling and they barely seem to be able to pedal effectively any other time through the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don't they adjust the gearing to be higher so they can get more power down through the course?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-10-08T03:01:27.013" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T19:29:06.680" Title="Why is BMX gearing so low" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10738" CreationDate="2012-08-10T08:18:44.990" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is all my guessing based on BMX racing when I was younger, but getting ahead of the pack out of the starting gate is a rather big deal. Once you're behind or right next to someone else, you sometimes have to tap the brakes to avoid them, so there's a huge advantage to this sudden rush of acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a clue as to at least an upper limit on gearing. You might have some advantage to higher gearing after the starting gate, but you wouldn't have the quick burst and you'd probably spend much of the race making up for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much of the gear selection from at least stock BMX bikes has to do with age; I remember having a lot of difficulty with how high mine was geared because of my age. This would be why some youth-oriented BMX bikes have low gearing, although this doesn't apply at all to professional circuits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T08:18:44.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10721" CreationDate="2012-08-10T11:58:06.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Powder coating, done right, is quite durable. I have had it done on an old steel frame a few years ago and have been happy with the result. The more expensive alternative is regular paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as vehicle owners go, you can't find ones that are more vain than motorcycle riders. These people often get paint or powder coat jobs done. The good news for us is that that means there's always a nearby facility that can handle bike frames. Bicycles are just like motorcycle frames except more simple. So, look for places that handle motorcycles and you then know they can do bikes too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do first is to take off all parts from the frame including the bearing race on the fork (will require a bike shop or very special tool). The shop will then be able to blast the old paint/coat off your frame, clean it with a solvent and apply a base coat and paint or powder coat. If the shop has done motorcycle frames, they will know what to do with holes and threads and know which areas should be free of paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T11:58:06.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10743" CreationDate="2012-08-10T14:37:31.863" Score="6" ViewCount="22104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that presta tube valve stems come in various lengths. I always assumed the longer valve stems were to allow the use of deeper aero wheels. Why is it that many wheels in print ads seem to have what I would consider an excessive amount of stem exposed? Is there an advantage or disadvantage to usng a stem that is just long enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2020-01-19T10:29:47.150" Title="what is the ideal presta tube valve stem length" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10742" CreationDate="2012-08-10T14:53:51.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the valve should be as short as possible while still allowing comfortable inflation of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, a longer valve usually &quot;won't hurt&quot;, specially if you have more than one bike or your group of fellows use to lend spare tubes to one another during rides (happens a lot to me, but in shcraeder-equiped mountainbikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-08-10T16:53:14.327" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T16:53:14.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10742" CreationDate="2012-08-10T15:56:33.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that ideal is about 1.25&quot; sticking out of the rim.  That's enough to accommodate most pump chucks without being so long that it increases the risk of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But mostly an over-long stem just looks ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a tendency in the last few years for the stems on the tubes at your LBS to get (much) longer (they generally only stock one or two lengths), presumably because of aero rims.  Manufacturers make more lengths, of course, but you'd have to special-order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T15:56:33.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10748" CreationDate="2012-08-10T18:33:07.010" Score="5" ViewCount="1903" Body="&lt;p&gt;Early this year I attached my bicycle to a trainer, around the December time frame of 2011. The rear tire and inner tuber where shot by March of 2012. Riding about 24 Miles per week. Is this normal with the use of a trainer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had the bicycle since 2004, and the tires were in good condition prior to attaching to the trainer. I have never had a flat, and the tread wear was good, probably had about 3000 Miles on the rear tire. After 3-4 months on the trainer the rear tire was bald, and the nylon belting was stringing on the inside of the tire, and the inner tube could not hold pressure long even with patching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up just order a new tire and inner tube for the front wheel and rotated the old tire and tube set to the rear wheel. Should I plan to do this every time I hook up the trainer for the season?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3573" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T19:30:21.813" Title="Is it normal to wear out the rear tire with in a few months when using a trainer?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10738" CreationDate="2012-08-10T18:34:50.753" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tracks do not have many long stretches and so cornering and getting ahead of the pack is a lot more important than going fast in the flats. The gearing on a race BMX is higher than on one you will buy out of the store. Most BMX will come with 44:16 gear ratio where racers will use 46-48:16, and I have seen higher. (There are different rear sizes but the standard is 16 when talking about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bmxmadness.com/bmx_gear_ratio_sizing_charts.htm&quot;&gt;Gear Ratios&lt;/a&gt;, even if you ride 9t or 14t rear you almost always know the conversion to 16t.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most racers will start with 44/45:16 then move up when they build their leg muscles to handle the higher ratios, but even then you really need that hole-shot a lot more than you need the higher end speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tracks had longer straights like a mountain bike course you might see more bikes with multiple gears and even higher gearing. As it stands, the berms are where you make your moves and getting in and out of the berms require more power than raw speed. I raced 44:16 against guys with 46:16 and never placed lower than 3rd. You want more power than over all speed on a race track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On street or in park you want even lower gearing, especially when you are trying to get that last pop before jumping up onto a rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T18:34:50.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10745" CreationDate="2012-08-10T18:37:42.730" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trainers are notorious for chewing up regular tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do sell trainer tires that are built to take the rubbing and wear that a trainer dishes out. What a lot of people do is buy a cheap wheel (Such as a neuvation or similar), throw a trainer tire on it and use that when they mount their bike to the trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T18:37:42.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10745" CreationDate="2012-08-10T18:39:15.197" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is common and is a result of the constant friction and increased heat of the small roller on the trainer. Larger diameter rollers will see lower degradation of the tire, but it will still be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most riders I know use less expensive tires, or older tires that they no longer trust for use on the road when they switch to the trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T18:39:15.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10745" CreationDate="2012-08-10T19:30:21.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @GaryRay has stated trainers are tough on tires. One condition that accelerates the wear is low pressure in the tire and high pressure on the roller. Many riders would not think of going for a ride without checking tire pressure but forget about checking the trainer tire. The low pressure on the tire and high roller pressure generates heat from the deflection of the sidewall as the wheel spins. the heat damages the tire. Also verify that the tire /wheel is as perpendicular to the roller as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T19:30:21.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-10T22:19:27.840" Score="0" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/437/how-do-i-know-when-to-replace-my-tires&quot;&gt;How do I know when to replace my tires?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface of my rear tire has become flattened as opposed to its original convex shape.&#xA;I have about 2,000 miles on it.  &quot;It&quot; is a 23 Vittorio Rubino Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4750" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T13:23:07.117" Title="Does my flat tire need to be replaced?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-08-11T14:10:15.367" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10751" CreationDate="2012-08-11T13:23:07.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably getting close. As you experience more flats than normal or really begin to notice the ledge of that tire corner when you lean into a curve its probably time. Some people wait till the fabric is showing, but i dont like the amount of flats that i start getting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2000 miles is a great life span for any tire, I say time for a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T13:23:07.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8664" CreationDate="2012-08-11T21:49:18.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad did that when I was a kid, and lived in a more &quot;interesting&quot; city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He pulled everything off, taped over moving parts, sanded it a bit, sprayed it with undercoat paint, and put it back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to stress about doing a good job... It's not meant to look pretty. We were Ina coastal city, and from a distance the paint job looked like rust (as if it had been in sea air for years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the bike lost a lot of value... But we never sold it anyway. Kept it in the family for years, always properly maintained, until eventually it wasn't fixable (and not sellable either). A good bike doesn't need to be sold in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4564" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T21:49:18.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8664" CreationDate="2012-08-11T22:27:03.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, last years uglifying tricks can become next year's hipster appeal so don't just focus on making it ugly.  Focus on making it harder to sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the look of your frame won't stop people stealing it to sell the components, so you need to first make sure it's not obvious which of your components are top-of-the-line.  Duct tape over &quot;Dura-Ace&quot; can help here and placed properly won't stop the components from functioning.  This won't fool a close inspection, but it will prevent &quot;window shopping&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike thief knows that his buyer wants to be able to plausibly deny that he knew he was receiving stolen goods.  Once you've obfuscated your components, anything you can do to make that harder to plausibly deny, reduces the value to a thief.  If you have some flexible stencils or sticky letters, you can always put &quot;Property of [your name] at [your street number]&quot; and &quot;Not for sale&quot; on the top tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T22:27:03.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8664" CreationDate="2012-08-12T00:03:51.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dominicwilcox.com/stickers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these stickers&lt;/a&gt;, and I like the idea. Makes your bike look beat up without doing any permanent damage. Should help if you plan on reselling you bike and upgrading in a few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T00:03:51.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2012-08-12T01:10:26.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This product should work, Leg Shield. Covers your pant leg from your ankle to right below your knee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelegstrap.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikelegstrap.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4756" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T01:10:26.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10759" CreationDate="2012-08-12T02:59:16.597" Score="19" ViewCount="7895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work ~15 miles from home and have made the decision to make the commute via bike. This is for a couple reasons. First of which being I don't actually have my license yet, second being that taking the bus actually takes longer, and third, that I'm getting my exercise AND commuting done at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was initially doing this on a 45lb+ mountain bike with large tires and no pedal clips, but I recently bought a nice $700 road bike and have cut half an hour off the trip so that it only takes about an hour each way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't so much mind the time it takes, even though it leaves me with little when I get back, as much as I do how tired I get afterwards. At work isn't too bad because I'm sitting most of the time anyway, but after I get home I've spent 8 hours at work, and two hours riding 30 miles on my bike, and I don't have much energy left to enjoy what remains of my time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diet is, of course, what I'm asking about here. I'm earning a modest pay and trying to put every penny towards college, so I'm not looking to reinvent how I eat, just make some switches or additions here and there. I've tried eating large amounts of pasta the day before, but still didn't see much improvement (I get the feeling I've misunderstood something about carb loading). I would drink more gatorade or other electrolyte-replenishing drinks, but I'm not sure where or how to buy them cheap and in bulk so the cost doesn't add up too much. The other thing I'm concerned about is protein. I'm probably not getting as much of it as I should be, but don't really know what to do about it. I've heard that people who weight train use whey protein - is that something bikers should do as well? If so, how would I go about taking it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to biking, so even the simplest advice would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4186" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T19:39:34.717" Title="Avoiding being wiped out after work commute?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10757" CreationDate="2012-08-12T03:37:54.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would drink more gatorade or other electrolyte-replenishing drinks, but I'm not sure where or how to buy them cheap and in bulk so the cost doesn't add up too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've been using &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike-parts.pricepoint.com/search?p=Q&amp;amp;ts=custom&amp;amp;w=nuun&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nuun tablets&lt;/a&gt; - 12 to a container, but breaking the tablet in 1/2 works fine too in the water bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For a 1 hour ride, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike-parts.pricepoint.com/search?p=Q&amp;amp;ts=custom&amp;amp;w=gu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gu gel (normal or Roctane)&lt;/a&gt; might be worth considering.  One at least, to get to work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's too little information to say much about your diet, and it's not the sort of thing anyone can definitively recommend without having seen you in person and having more detail.  Your doctor would be a good place to start, there are numerous diet strategies you can research. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T03:37:54.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10757" CreationDate="2012-08-12T03:40:26.407" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest advice is: just keep it up. Give your body time to adapt to the new workload you're putting on it, and it will get easier and easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For drinks, you can buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0025WGHEE&quot;&gt;gatorade powder&lt;/a&gt; and mix it yourself at home. $19.49 for 9 gallons of gatorade is &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; better than paying retail price for a quart at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand carb loading, it's not something you can do for a repeated effort like a daily commute. The idea is to deprive your body of carbohydrates for a period of time, then binge shortly before an endurance effort. You can't really achieve a level that would be useful inside a repeating 24-hour period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, don't sweat protein. It probably wouldn't &lt;em&gt;hurt&lt;/em&gt;, but any benefit would be extremely minor for the workloads you're doing, and isn't worth significant effort or attention. Again, just keep up with the cycling and your body will quickly begin to adapt automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Oh, and one thing that will help is to consume carbohydrates immediately after your commute. The human body absorbs carbs significantly more quickly after a workout, and uses them to replenish any lost stores. Waiting even a half hour greatly diminishes this effect, so the sooner the better. It doesn't have to be a full meal or anything; anything is better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T03:40:26.407" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="166" CreationDate="2012-08-12T05:06:23.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried many apps on my phone-- MapMyRide, MyTreks, Endomondo, Strava-- and there are pros and cons associated with using an iPhone in this capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it boils down to ride duration. If you're riding for a short distance/time, you're probably going to be satisfied with a variety of apps, depending on what you want them for. You like to compete with others? Try Strava. If you like just recording your route, speed, elevation (not very precise), try Endomondo or MapMyRide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride for longer distances/times, you're probably going to find the iPhone is rather limited. The battery is drained rapidly by the screen, so if you like to use your phone in place of a cyclocomputer for speed, heart rate (requires &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wahoofitness.com/Products/Wahoo-Fitness-Wahoo-Blue-HR-Heart-Rate-Strap-for-iPhone-4S.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;additional hardware&lt;/a&gt;), you will find that your phone will die on you, unless you have an external battery of some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do a 50-ish mile ride about 3-4 times per month, and it takes about 3 hours. I've tried using my iPhone to record the ride, and it died on me before the ride was over. It was in my jersey pocket-- I have a cyclocomputer, so I don't use the phone in that capacity-- and it was probably 95% charged at the start of the ride, but it was still dead before the end of the ride. I know I can make it work-- quit other apps that are not being used, make sure the app is not displaying my position on a map, so the screen can go dark and save some battery-- but for longer rides, say, 70 miles, the phone simply does not hold enough charge in the battery to permit me to record the ride. A 70-mile ride for me is around 4.5 hours on the bike, plus stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch of various cases/mounts which allow you to put your iPhone on the cap of your steering tube or on your stem/bars, some of which are waterproof, some which are not, some with an external battery, some without. Personally, I can't use that kind of a case unless it is waterproof, equipped with an external battery, and easily removed (I don't want my phone getting stolen when my bike is parked). Too, if you typically carry your iPhone in a case-- I use an Otterbox-- you need to remove it from that case before you put it into your handlebar/stem/steering-tube-cap-mounted case. Taking an iPhone out of an Otterbox Defender case is a hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What works best for me, riding around 2500 miles per year on/off road, is a Ziploc bag. I put my phone into a Ziploc bag, and carry it in my jersey pocket or my Camelbak. If you ride a decent amount and want to get data from your rides, you should get a Garmin. You'll get enough battery life to record a century, and then some, plus you'll get a device which is actually designed for the job of recording the route/helping you navigate, recording heart rate, cadence, elevation, grade, you name it. Everyone I know who has a Garmin loves it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2012-08-12T05:14:46.653" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T05:14:46.653" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-08-12T05:06:23.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10757" CreationDate="2012-08-12T05:18:20.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a couple of things you need to pay attention to. One is bonking, that's where you don't have the carbs needed by the liver to process fat. Generally you need to worry about this only for &quot;endurance&quot; activities, which was defined by the dietitian that was giving the lecture I attended as &quot;more than 90 minutes of exercise&quot; at one time. You've been working all day and then doing a hard ride so it may apply anyway. Easy way to tell if you are bonking is if you feel fatigued (sounds right from your description) especially if combined with being irritable (don't know from your description). This is a fairly easy fix - about 50-100 cals from carbs every 40 minutes of exercise. If you can drink the sweet stuff, you can get plenty of carbs in your drink. I prefer to chew something now and again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next importance is your recovery &quot;drink&quot;. Turns out timing matters. You need to get 150-300 calories into your system within 15 minutes of the end of exercising. Ideally this should be in the ratio of 4 carbs : 1 protein. Chocolate milk makes a good ratio here and is yummy. I'm not supper picky about what I do for a recovery a lot of time and more often than not my recovery &quot;drink&quot; is a PB&amp;amp;J sandwich...I also don't pay too much attention to the ratio...I do pay attention to how quick I eat it. I've noticed a big difference if I eat/drink something right after I get off the bike compared to after I've showered and changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are saving for college, spending a lot of money on gels and what not probably won't fit the plan. I've seen at least one study where bagels were compared to gels and the bottom line was the number of carbs mattered but it didn't much matter how you consumed them, so my two cents is get some decent carbs, but go cheaper. Bagels, fig newtons, PB&amp;amp;J are some of my favorites. We have a good bagel place nearby and I can get a mix of flavors without breaking the bank. For bike nutrition you can get the &quot;day-old&quot; and freeze them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My $0.02 on the whey protein...better ways to spend your money. Decent food at the right times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T05:18:20.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10757" CreationDate="2012-08-12T10:15:44.657" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of potential quick fixes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slow Down A Little&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cycle a bit slower (5-10%) you should find that takes a lot less out of you and it will only add a few minutes to your commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take The Bus One Day A Week&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you exercise 5 days in a row you're going to feel tired, particularly on the 4th and 5th days. If you work Monday to Friday then try &#xA;taking the bus on a Wednesday. It'll give your body a chance to recover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Diet&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest keeping a log of everything you eat for a couple of weeks. Work out how much carbohydrate, protein and fat you consume as well as the total number of calories. Packaged food should say on it, there are databases for other food (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caloriedatabase.com/&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;). As far as your diet goes the 2 most likely issues are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not Eating Enough Carbohydrate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 50-60% of your calorie intake should be in the form of carbohydrate (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coolrunning.com/engine/2/2_1/162.shtml&quot;&gt;ref&lt;/a&gt;), about 25% fat and the remainder protein. If you don't eat enough carbohydrate then you'll struggle when you cycle as your body will run out of easily obtainable forms of energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not Eating At The Right Time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eating some high carbohydrate food about 2 hours before you cycle should help. Go for something that will be slowly absorbed rather than sweets. I normally eat a banana or a cereal bar. You may need to experiment with the timing and what you eat a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consuming carbohydrate while cycling may also help. You want something that will be quickly absorbed. Sports drinks work well, you can also make your own - they're basically water and sugar with a pinch of salt. I eat jelly babies, so go with whatever works for you. Somewhere in the region of 100 calories ought to be enough for an hour of cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eating after exercise is also a good idea. I usually time my exercise so that I'm eating my normal meal shortly afterwards, but if there's going to be more than an hour then I'll have a snack - usually a banana or a cereal bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T10:15:44.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10794" CreationDate="2012-08-12T11:13:09.993" Score="2" ViewCount="1210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got cx bike(Centurion Cyclocross 4000) which I currently use only for commuting and riding long distances on a road. Is it possible to use some longreach caliper brakes on it (e.g. Shimano BR-650 or Tektro R538)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4757" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T18:57:13.200" Title="Can I use long reach calipers on my cyclocross bike?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-12T15:33:49.403" Score="2" ViewCount="2943" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Batavus Dutch bike for local commuting with a Shimano DH-2R30E 6 volt, 2.4 watt hub dynamo driving a halogen bulb headlight. The light provided is not very bright and I would like to know if I can replace it with an LED headlight for a reasonable cost. If so, what would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also mention that I would like to bolt the light to the bike in place of the existing light, rather that fix it the the handlebar and unclip it when I leave the bike. One of the major benefits of the Dutch bike concept is that everything is fitted including locks and lights, so it is quick to use for short local journeys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that I will leave the light on the bike unattended, the light shouldn't look too special, and a reasonable cost would be less that $100/£80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4728" LastEditorUserId="4728" LastEditDate="2012-08-12T22:20:12.627" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T10:03:36.767" Title="Can you recommend a fixed LED headlight for a bike with a hub dynamo?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10764" CreationDate="2012-08-12T16:09:46.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reasonable cost could mean a problem depending on your budget, because a good LED light for dynamo-hubs should not be cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestions, based on what I've seen (at night, during some randonneur events) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From Busch &amp;amp; Müller, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bumm.de/produkte/akku-scheinwerfer/ixon-iq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IXON&lt;/a&gt; models. Their light is obscenely strong, reaching 100m+ with a good cutoff, thus without annoying other riders or road users.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Schmidt Edelux, which work on the same principle of semi-parabola reflector. I think this is not so strong as the former, but maybe if you like to enjoy THE NIGHT (instead of throwing bird's eggs out of their nests on the trees with your headlight beam), this is a very good choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot tell about other models, but it seems to me that they've seen a lot of improvement in the last few years, the greatest one being the abandonment of halogen bulbs (argh!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T16:09:46.080" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10772" CreationDate="2012-08-12T16:14:55.297" Score="11" ViewCount="20355" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years ago, I've bought &lt;strike&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dragbicycles.com/?menu=product&amp;amp;id=210#specification&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt; (see edit) bike. At that time I was around 90 kgs and I didn't have any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I'm around 120 kgs and I was considering (among other things) starting cycling again. Is this bike &quot;good&quot; enough to carry me? What should I expect? Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT!&lt;/strong&gt; Apparently, &lt;em&gt;Drag&lt;/em&gt; have renamed some of their bikes in the last few years, so the above information is a bit wrong. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dragbicycles.com/?menu=product&amp;amp;id=211&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; seems to be my bike. At first I didn't recognize much difference, but this one has suspension on the front which mine also has. Does this change anything&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4758" LastEditorUserId="4758" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T13:47:14.663" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T03:34:57.483" Title="Maximum weight an average bicycle can carry?" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10770" CreationDate="2012-08-12T16:22:58.610" Score="7" ViewCount="3137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of sweat in all straps and padding in my helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When i ride in heavy rain the salt from my sweat starts dripping down my face. Its very unpleasant especially if it goes in my mouth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get rid of this salt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T21:14:10.447" Title="Can I soak my helmet in water?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10289" CreationDate="2012-08-12T17:15:08.457" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know, if you take a 2 inch ball made of lead and a 2 inch ball made of brick and submerge them in water, they will both displace the same amount of water, since neither will float. But Ill bet their weights are worlds apart. You probably meant to say..&quot;Place it in a measuring cup FLOATING in water&quot;, then you can figure out how much water they each displace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4759" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T17:15:08.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10768" CreationDate="2012-08-12T17:28:06.517" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The helmet itself is (probably) polysterene foam inner and a harder plastic shell, it's fine to wash this in water and some mild detergent (eg dish soap)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try and wash the straps in hot soapy water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the pads. Usually washing the pads means that they come unglued, the surface layers separate from the inner cushion part. All you can do is keep the extra ones you get to size a new helmet and swap them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if pro racing type helmets come with multiple sets of replaceable straps and pads - but they should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastEditorUserId="427" LastEditDate="2012-08-12T17:37:49.767" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T17:37:49.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10768" CreationDate="2012-08-12T17:28:19.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should refer to the manual for the helmet for cleaning instructions. Usually it will say to use mild soap and water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A helmet will not be damaged by water, but &lt;strong&gt;don't use heat to dry it&lt;/strong&gt; afterwards as this can destroy your helmet. Also, if the padding is removable then you might be able to get replacement pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T17:28:19.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10767" CreationDate="2012-08-12T17:31:57.933" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a road surface you will be fine - try not to jump any kerbs ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to the force when a bike with even a light rider goes over say a pothole or a jump the static load from a 120Kg rider is small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to check the spoke tension reglarly - those are the parts that will suffer most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T17:31:57.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10768" CreationDate="2012-08-12T21:14:10.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to wash, even submerge, your helmet in water, with perhaps a dash of mild detergent.  Use no other solvents or additives.  If submerging, agitate &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; slowly, since the force of water against pads or other loosely-attached elements can be quite strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry by draining thoroughly and placing in a slightly warm place (not somewhere where you could not sit comfortably for at least a few minutes -- high heat can kill a helmet).  Expect it to take 2-3 days to completely dry if submerged.  DO NOT put the helmet &quot;away&quot; (in a bag or box, in an enclosed area, etc) before it is thoroughly dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If pads are removable, remove them and wash separately, but washing with the helmet should not harm the pads (or their adhesive) any more than riding in the rain or sweating in the helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T21:14:10.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10767" CreationDate="2012-08-12T21:24:53.303" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say no sweat -- the bike can handle you and another 100kg, so long as you don't go off-roading with it or some such.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels appear to be 36-spoke and plenty wide, so they can easily handle the weight.  The frame is a standard diamond, the strongest design you'll find.  No fancy suspension to bottom out or break.  Barring a manufacturing defect or incredibly poor materials probably the seat will be the first thing to wear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do get it an annual checkup at your local bike shop, though, if you end up using it regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;  The changes to the original post affect what I said above to some degree.  The &quot;new&quot; bike has an aluminum frame and front suspension.  The Al frame is a bit more apt to fatigue over time, especially if overloaded (though a 120kg rider is not really &quot;overloading&quot;).  Of slightly more concern would be how well the front suspension handles the load, something that is hard to judge.  The bike is most probably OK for a 120kg rider, but questionable for, say, a 180kg rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-08-19T03:34:57.483" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T03:34:57.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10764" CreationDate="2012-08-12T21:45:46.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any replacement would need to be matched to the dynamo in voltage and load.  I'd suggest that you contact the dynamo manufacturer to find out what might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T21:45:46.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10757" CreationDate="2012-08-12T21:53:40.617" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep doing it.  When I commuted regularly (10 miles each way but with a 25 mile &quot;shortcut&quot; in the morning) I had more energy than I do now (though admittedly that's in part because of several medical problems).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a decent amount of carbs, especially in the PM, somewhere between noon and 2 hours before you depart.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't try to break any records, especially on the home-bound trip.  Just keep a steady pace, and may be every few days, when you're feeling a bit more &quot;perky&quot;, see if you can improve your pace a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take every 2nd or 3rd day off.  The body needs a little time to recover, especially early on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expect to be a little tired.  If your schedule permits it, take a catnap right after you get home, for 30 minutes or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T21:53:40.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10767" CreationDate="2012-08-12T22:28:17.653" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;120 kg is not that heavy, especially for a bike that is meant for a rider and panniers.  You don't have any carbon bits that have trouble with periodic flexing which really leaves the wheels as the potentially weak link.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/82/am-i-too-heavy-for-my-road-bike-tires&quot;&gt;Am I too heavy for my road bike tires?&lt;/a&gt; addresses tires and as Daniel R. Hicks points out, you've got fairly robust wheels -- there're tandems that have similar wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T22:28:17.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2664" CreationDate="2012-08-12T22:47:15.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, get yourself a decent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;torque wrench&lt;/a&gt; with allen head bits in all the sizes you use for bike parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, print out a sheet of &lt;strong&gt;common torque values&lt;/strong&gt; and keep it handy.  There's one at the link above.  You can destroy parts by over-tightening and you can build a bike that'll fall apart underneath you by under-tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a &lt;strong&gt;maintenance manual&lt;/strong&gt;.  The web is a great resource, but professionally edited manuals organize information far better than any mailing list.  If you can afford a used copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbinstitute.com/the-barnett-manual&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Barnett's Manual&lt;/a&gt;, you should have them available.  They're the best reference when trying to build out a bike.  Some co-workers that I used to ride with and I pitched in for a set that we kept at the office and we'd come in on the weekend to work on bikes.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://velopress.com/category/bike-maintenance/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Zinn and the Art of {Road,Mountain} Bike Maintenance&quot;&lt;/a&gt; are much shorter (and cheaper) alternatives and are fine if you're using fairly standard components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I just recommended paper manuals, but I found it helpful to download installation instructions for components and use my PDF viewer to &lt;strong&gt;zoom in on the diagrams&lt;/strong&gt;.  The printed ones are too small for my eyes to really see small details which might help you tell whether parts that come in pairs have any chirality to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;strong&gt;take your time&lt;/strong&gt;.  Don't plan to start building out your first bike 2 weeks before a tour.  Start getting parts and working on it early and try to do anything that might require specialized tools or skills like reaming or press-fitting first.  Some things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smartcycles.com/frame_prep.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;prepping a head tube&lt;/a&gt; will probably require a trip to your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-08-12T22:52:42.713" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T22:52:42.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10764" CreationDate="2012-08-12T22:56:37.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt-headlights.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peter White&lt;/a&gt; has done a lot of testing of dynamo headlights and has even put together &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comparisons of luminance&lt;/a&gt;.  I have the Schmidt Edelux and love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqdfn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T22:56:37.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9245" CreationDate="2012-08-13T03:43:43.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have cloth panniers with a piece of stiff plastic riveted to the inside back wall so turning them inside out isn't an option for cleaning. &#xA;Using a mild washing machine soap in the bath tub with warm water, I dunked each pannier in and scrubbed all surfaces with a brush. Hung outside to dry and then brought them inside for the remaining dry time using a floor fan to air dry them. Once dry, the final step was to battle the remaining odor of the bags. Taking an idea from an earlier answer, I dumped a sufficient quantity of Gold Bond Body Powder into a sock and proceeded to gently tap it inside each pannier until there was a fine film of powder lining the interior. Just enough to absorb any undesirable odor and make we want to use them again. &#xA;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4763" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T03:43:43.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9245" CreationDate="2012-08-13T11:54:21.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the original comment is attached to a deleted post I'll repeat it here:  There are special odor-killing laundry agents that can be quite effective against certain odors.  One I've used is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wildlife.com/Hunting-Scent-Elimination-Product_Details.php?Scent-Killer-Powder-Clothing-Wash-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scent Killer&lt;/a&gt;, a laundry additive intended for use by hunters to remove the odor from their clothing (so they don't spook their prey).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydrogen peroxide can also be used for this (though it has a slight tendency to bleach colors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same agents can be useful for washing out smelly bike shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T11:54:21.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10888" CreationDate="2012-08-13T17:48:21.263" Score="1" ViewCount="2066" Body="&lt;p&gt;Namely I am interested in such data:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the width of the nose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;I couldn't find a picture of Targa from the side&lt;/em&gt; -- is Targa (looking from side) a flat saddle? (Henge is not)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is the shell flexible or rather rigid (don't confuse with padding) -- &lt;em&gt;for example I would say Specialized Romin is super rigid&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the only differences I know are the weight, price and overall look. So if you know more important differences, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T17:14:15.133" Title="What are the differences between Specialized Targa and Henge?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10788" CreationDate="2012-08-13T22:15:52.093" Score="28" ViewCount="87277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the bike, I have the best route; but now I want to know, how do I transport my clothing in each day? I typically wear suit pants and a business shirt, but not a suit jacket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I better off leaving my clothes at work, or is there a special bag that would let me carry in shirt/pants without them getting crushed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4771" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T02:21:15.280" LastActivityDate="2018-03-14T21:20:15.183" Title="Commuting: How to carry office clothing so it doesn't get crushed?" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2012-08-13T22:50:18.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Eagle Creek travel gear pack-it folder. They come in a couple of different sizes. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002YIRBU8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a medium one&lt;/a&gt;. A careful roll can do the trick as well, but I'm pretty lazy. This works great and quick if you have the shirt buttoned; I just drop the hanger out the bottom, lay shirt on the sofa, fold around plastic and done. I generally pack my work clothes the night before...total time about 2 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The folder fits great in any of my packs: backpack, drybag, messenger bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a locker at work and leave my belt and shoes there. This frees up the bulk that I would have to pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T22:50:18.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2012-08-14T01:16:34.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to avoid carrying clothes that will crease on the bike. I will drive or catch the train to work one day a week and cart enough clothes for the week on that day and then leave them at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes you have somewhere to store clothes, the ability to carry them off the bike and a good enough supply to keep going for a week (or whatever frequency you wish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I try to have almost everything stored at work and only carry underwear and socks on a daily basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T01:16:34.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2012-08-14T02:35:13.483" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two options, essentially: You can either carry each day's clothing on every trip, or store clothing at work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carrying clothing daily&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to do this, you'll need to find a way to roll up your clothing so it's not &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; wrinkled. Be aware that even packing clothing in the most wrinkle-free way possible will still not keep it as fresh-looking as when you pull it out of the closet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many business travelers have found that the best way to transport clothing is to roll it. Do some searching, not on bike sites, but on business sites, and you'll find videos that get into this in more detail. But the gist: Fold along seams, then roll your clothing. The parts that must be least wrinkled (shirt collar, for example) should remain on the outside. You can also experiment with rolling around a towel, leaving some extra towel at the end and then rolling that around the bundle. This will become your clean-up towel at work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you're showering at work (or taking a sink bath), hang your clothing up and let it hang up a bit. Allow a little extra time for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting at this point that many people continue to sweat even after they stop exercising, so you may want to wait ten to fifteen minutes before showering. (Riding gently for the last mile or three can also help.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are special cases that hold clothes, but they all (to my knowledge) involve folding them. I think that this will invariably crease the clothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Storing clothing at work&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a spare closet or other space where you can leave clothing hanging at work, this is a great option. Consider doing a half-commute on Mondays, carrying the bike and clothing in, then riding home. On Friday, reverse the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a space like this, you can also leave shoes there, and possibly even a travel iron for touching up clothes (if you want to look particularly sharp). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider leaving a spare outfit at work in any case. I always worried that I would forget, say, underwear, or a belt, so I left an older set of clothing in my locker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your work doesn't have a space like this, look into nearby gyms. Some gyms will let you use the showers and locker room for a small fee, one that's smaller than a gym membership. Some larger businesses even have gyms on-site for employees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that commutes of a mile or two may not require changing at all, but you'll still have these things to deal with in very hot or cold weather, or when riding in the rain. (Edit: Your 6k commute is a bit long for this, but it's still good advice in general.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck on the commute! Speaking from personal experience, I recommend allowing a lot of extra time the first few commutes, and also doing a dry run of the route (if you haven't already). Also consider talking to any cycling co-workers: Some of them may have solved the problems related to your specific workplace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T04:07:00.157" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T04:07:00.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5636" CreationDate="2012-08-14T04:10:58.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost a year late to this question, but I actually answered this on YouTube right around the time it was asked. I just found this so I figured I'd add my answer. It's worked on three of my four Surlys. (One of them has decals that seemed to have been applied with super glue. A heat gun helped take care of that one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/f9mOARGaWSw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4772" LastEditorUserId="4772" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T04:26:55.593" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T04:26:55.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2012-08-14T04:27:27.853" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear a business suit everyday to work.  I use a light weight garment bag and hangers.  I hang the pants and shirt on one hanger and the suit jacket on a separate hanger.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the garment bag is zipped up, I roll it around my shoes from the bottom up.  It fits right in my saddle bag.  When i get work not one wrinkle.  You can't leave it rolled up to long or it will wrinkle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience i have 3 hours to unroll before i see any wrinkles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T04:27:27.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2012-08-14T09:15:26.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cycle to work about 5.5 miles every day. I bring trousers, shoes and shirt to change into, all fitted into one pannier. I carefully fold the trousers and shirt in a plastic bag and lay them flat against the back of the pannier and then put the shoes in to hold them in place. Lunch box fits on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T09:15:26.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2012-08-14T13:15:34.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go for a regular hard suitcase (not a fancy one, lots of friction), strapped horizontally over the rear rack in the same position of the wings of a plane. Inside, I would fold the clothes the same way I would fold them to put inside a travel bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, I would prefer to create two &quot;environments&quot;: the inside of the suitcase, clean and ordered, protected from the elements, ant the outside, where you and your riding clothes are, a world of smoke, dust, sweat and possibly rain. When you arrive at your work, then you perform a &quot;mode-switch&quot; with the help of a restroom, perhaps a shower. There, you invert the environments, being dressed in a clean way, with the riding clothes encapsulated inside a plastic bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;two-environments&quot; strategy is opposed to the single-environment, &quot;cycle-chic&quot; strategy, in which one performs Slow-Ride while wearing the very same clothes that will be used during work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main factors affecting to choose one over another would be distance, speed and climate, and perhaps you could opt for one or another according to weather or time of year (summer vs. winter, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T13:15:34.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10534" CreationDate="2012-08-14T14:36:33.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across these articles which have some detailed specs and pics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/olympic-preview-the-contenders-men/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/olympic-preview-the-contenders-men/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/olympic-preview-the-contenders-women/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/olympic-preview-the-contenders-women/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2512" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T14:36:33.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10763" CreationDate="2012-08-14T18:57:13.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just looked at the Centurion website and it's not clear from the pics or the German specs whether the frame and forks have caliper mounting holes. Look for a hole in the centre of the fork to take the caliper, and a corresponding one in the centre of the rear cross-brace above the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If those are there you can use caliper brakes of some kind, if you can get ones with the appropriate reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that you may also need to change the levers to pull a different amount of cable, or use some kind of adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4178" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T18:57:13.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10757" CreationDate="2012-08-14T19:39:34.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really doubt that this is a diet issue.  I think it is a volume issue, and it will go away if you keep at it.  Taking off one day - maybe midweek - would be a good idea if you are feeling tired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T19:39:34.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10796" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-08-14T20:36:08.863" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T20:36:08.863" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T20:36:08.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10797" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-08-14T20:36:08.863" Score="0" Body="This tag is about forward facing lights on the front of a bike: on the handle bars; fixed to the front of the frame; on the forks and so on. It is not about lights worn around the head or on a helmet, but clearly the two cases are complimentary." OwnerUserId="4728" LastEditorUserId="4728" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T22:38:40.493" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T22:38:40.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10798" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-08-14T20:56:44.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;LED lights for bikes: front, rear and otherwise; bike and body fitted; battery and dynamo powered and all the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4728" LastEditorUserId="4728" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T22:39:04.093" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T22:39:04.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10799" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-08-14T20:56:44.190" Score="0" Body="LED lights for bikes: front, rear and otherwise; bike and body fitted; battery and dynamo powered and all the rest." OwnerUserId="4728" LastEditorUserId="4728" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T22:38:53.593" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T22:38:53.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10800" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-08-14T21:01:19.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Health issues related to cycling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Comfort and avoiding pain on the bike]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[surviving environmental pollution]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Cycle training health issues]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Keeping the body well fueled-up for cycling]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4728" LastEditorUserId="4728" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T22:39:14.823" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T22:39:14.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10801" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-08-14T21:01:19.620" Score="0" Body="Health issues affecting cyclists: comfort, pollution, energy, ..." OwnerUserId="4728" LastEditorUserId="4728" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T22:39:35.400" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T22:39:35.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-15T00:47:24.473" Score="2" ViewCount="505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a steel cyclocross bike which doubles as my weekend bike and my daily commuter. About a month ago I got in a wreck and bent the rear derailleur hanger and the rear derailleur. Got the hanger re-aligned and put on a new derailleur.  Chain was not all that worn (checked it) so didn't replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast-forward about three weeks. I was noticing significant &quot;phantom shifting&quot; which was primarily when putting a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of torque on the pedals (I have 220mm cranks and go up a 10% grade on the way to work). Everything seemed to be lined up on the stand, but on inspection the chain had multiple links with cracks in them. New chain=problem solved... for about 3 days. Now it's started acting the same way. It frequently &quot;skips&quot; and occasionally tries to shift from the middle chainring to the small chainring if I'm riding uphill, which threatened to unhorse me once. It can also do this on the large chainring. I checked visually and there's no snaggletooth. The chainring does seem to have a very minor wobble -- less than 1mm left/right, but I've noticed that the phantom shift/skip is indepenendent of where my feet are (ie can happen with left foot up, right foot up, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what else could be causing this / what should I check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4777" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T20:13:57.647" Title="What is causing phantom shifting on front chainring?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10802" CreationDate="2012-08-15T03:24:05.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this happen before too. &quot;Skipping&quot; while putting lots of torque down, although it wasn't skipping left/right it was skipping up/down on the sprocket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out that replacing the chain without replacing the gears was a waste. Because the chain had been so old and thus deformed/stretched this caused the all the teeth on the sprockets to be deformed as well. Normally when a chain gets old you replace it before it's deformation influences the rest of the drivetrain but it will if you let it go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By replacing the chain and not the gears your new chain was aged almost instantly to the state of the old chain by the already deformed gears. the gears are much stronger than the chain and try to force the chain to conform to their shape. Before their deformations are in sync you will feel skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer for me was to either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal with the skipping until the new chain was just as bad as the old chain but at least there was no skipping because then the gears and chain would be in sync (this is at the cost of needing to replace the chain sooner because the wear is greater and faster and then deal with the skipping all over again) or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace everything and start over fresh. the start over fresh option means you'll get more life from a new chain and you can pay better attention to it's wear and replace it in a more timely manner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4574" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T03:24:05.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-15T10:48:08.837" Score="2" ViewCount="755" Body="&lt;p&gt;One simple question: I have a mountain bike that has 2 tires with schrader valves. I bought a new tube with a presta valve by mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you see any issues with replacing one of the tubes that had a schrader valve with a tube which has a presta valve and keeping the bicycle with one of each, or is this not recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4780" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T19:07:33.727" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T19:07:33.727" Title="Bicycle with 1 tire with Presta valve and 1 with Schrader valve" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;valves&gt;&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-15T11:06:54.823" Score="4" ViewCount="16385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across the following issue - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gizmag.com/nike-hindsight/12148/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;'Nike' Hindsight concept glasses increase peripheral vision&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time of its publishing, these glasses were only a concept. My Question: is there a similar real working product in production?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4781" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T01:28:38.643" Title="Is Nike Hindsight glasses only a concept or there are a real similar products?" Tags="&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10804" CreationDate="2012-08-15T11:49:57.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll be fine with one of each kind of valve. Supposedly there's some increased risk of valve damage to the presta because it doesn't fit the schreader hole, but I've never seen it happen. Just keep your lockring on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T11:49:57.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10802" CreationDate="2012-08-15T12:07:58.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to check is whether the crank integrity is intact -- the shaft could be bent, there could be a cracked cup, or the axle/cartridge could simply be loose.  Also, the crank arm may be bent or loose.  If the crank shifts under load (due either to the axle shifting or a loose arm) it could easily account for your phantom shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next is the rings.  You imply that one ring has a &quot;slight wobble&quot;, which may indicate a bent arm or may indicate the ring needs replacing.  Also, the rings may simply be worn to end of life -- from experience this can cause phantom shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is a &quot;galloping&quot; rear derailer.  If for some reason the rear derailer is not taking up chain smoothly it can cause front ring phantom shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T12:07:58.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10811" CreationDate="2012-08-15T13:06:25.013" Score="6" ViewCount="2733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know my bike's rear cassette needs replacing, but before I do that, is it feasible to dismantle the 8 sprockets to reverse their spin? Can you increase the lifespan of a cassette by letting the cogs wear and tear the other way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3614" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T17:45:32.500" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T04:29:47.917" Title="Can you reverse the sprockets on a cassette to lengthen its lifespan?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10808" CreationDate="2012-08-15T13:31:05.937" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have Shimano-compatiple Hyperglide cogs: No, you can't.&#xA;The cassette body is not symmetric, the cassette fits in only one position.&#xA;You could resort to adapt the cogs with a file, though. But shifting will be problematic at least, the cogs have certain indents to make shifting smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T13:31:05.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10815" CreationDate="2012-08-15T13:42:35.873" Score="4" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;The area I live (NE United States) doesn't have a very large infrastructure for biking. There are scattered bike paths and they've finally completed a bridge that allows me to commute to work, but there's nothing like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tfl.gov.uk/roadusers/cycling/11901.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; in London or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/07/19/denmark-bike-superhighway-copenhagen-video_n_1687181.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; in Denmark. In fact, most of the time I'm sharing roads with typical American drivers (&quot;Ooh! Look! A bicyclist! Let's swerve into him! I won't even have to put the cel phone down!&quot;). In general, I like the solitude and the fact that often I'm the fastest vehicle on congested city roads (nothing like zipping by a line of cars stuck behind a clueless driver) but I've started wondering lately what it's like riding with a lot higher volume of other cyclists on the road. In general I avoid the bike paths in the area on the weekends because there's a disproportionate number of folks who seem ignorant of riding etiquette (slower traffic keep to the right, don't let your children lurch blindly into the path of other cyclists, etc.) but these aren't regular commuters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Folks who ride in areas with much better infrastructure (doesn't even have to be a bike &quot;superhighway&quot;) - do you find that higher volumes of commuters mean a worst commute for you personally? Does having a larger commuter &quot;culture&quot; help with other riders or is it just as frustrating as being stuck behind them in a car as they apply lipstick and chat away on the cel phone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; based on some discussion below, an additional (yet related) question - are there considerations built in to the larger bikeways to allow riders to keep a faster pace (i.e., multiple marked lanes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastEditorUserId="2362" LastEditDate="2012-08-16T12:02:30.117" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T06:52:54.563" Title="En masse bicycle commuting" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bike-culture&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10804" CreationDate="2012-08-15T13:50:16.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I swapped out both tubes on my mountain bike with Presta (less chance of crap getting in to the valve and it means I can carry the same CO2 inflator as I do on my road bike) and got the bushings - once they were in I've had zero issues with the valve stem. I'd definitely recommend putting one in since there's the chance that the valve stem could rub against the edge of the hole or the tube could even prolapse through the hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_9?url=search-alias=aps&amp;amp;field-keywords=presta%20to%20schrader%20adapter&amp;amp;sprefix=presta%20to,aps,146&quot;&gt;Presta to Schrader&lt;/a&gt; adapters, mostly in case my CO2 inflator dies and I need to try and fill from a gas station (it happened once and I didn't have 'em). Just walk into your favorite B&amp;amp;M store and they'll probably have 'em in a container on the counter. I think I paid just over a dollar apiece. If you're really concerned about losing it you can screw it onto the Presta valve and leave it there; just make sure the valve is screwed shut before you thread the adapter on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T13:50:16.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10812" CreationDate="2012-08-15T15:18:37.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on the riders that you encounter, actually. I've been in group rides of 40+ where everyone was an experienced cyclist, and it was smooth sailing. People were able to move in and out of various parts of the group at will, road safety and laws were observed, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also been in rides with 6 people where the handling was sketchy, they spread out across the road, ignored traffic laws and it was generally not a pleasant experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;commuter culture&quot; is pretty much going to be just like the car commuters. You'll have quite a few that obey the laws and operate in a safe manner, then you're going to have the few that ignore the laws, people around them, and generally make it unsafe for everyone else. My favorite lately was a college &quot;hipster fixie&quot; rider that was riding no handed, cigarette in the right hand, cell phone glued to the ear with the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Operate your bike in a safe manner, watch out for the cars and the unsafe riders, and you should generally have a pleasant commute (And yes, there is nothing better than zipping past a long line of stopped cars! :D )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T15:18:37.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10812" CreationDate="2012-08-15T15:26:40.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes on all counts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more cyclists on the road does seem to improve driver behaviour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it does also mean more clueless cyclists (no etiquette, no shoulder checks, poor road positioning)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;... and, of course, any dedicated provision will tend to be more congested (and disproportionately with the worse cyclists IME)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ride with traffic, and benefit mostly from drivers just being more used to having cyclists around&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OR, if there's a dedicated cycle path and I choose to use it, I &lt;em&gt;expect&lt;/em&gt; to share it with slower and often less competent cyclists, because I feel like taking it slowly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One fringe benefit of having more active cyclists &lt;em&gt;may be&lt;/em&gt; better provision of bike stands, more bike shops, etc.  Of course there may also be the fringe detriment of more bike thieves if there's a larger second-hand market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is based on my commuting in London btw, so YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the follow-up question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... are there considerations built in to the larger bikeways to allow riders to keep a faster pace (i.e., multiple marked lanes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;not in my experience. Many bike lanes in London are one bike wide, and even where the blue &quot;cycle superhighway&quot; takes a full traffic lane, there are no subdivisions inside it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the space required for a safe overtake depends both on the absolute speed of the overtakee (slower-moving bikes are intrinsically less stable and, by riding closer to the edge, they're likely to encounter more bumps and obstacles) and the relative speed difference. Even a full-width lane isn't ideal for overtaking with much over a 5mph differential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time you're going much faster than that, you're probably closer to the speed of traffic than the cyclist you're overtaking, and will be better off using a regular traffic lane to overtake anyway. Caveat: typical London traffic speeds, doesn't apply to all roads, etc. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastEditorUserId="3311" LastEditDate="2012-08-16T14:40:40.153" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T14:40:40.153" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10808" CreationDate="2012-08-15T16:38:01.513" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that any rear cluster designed for indexed shifting has directional cogs.  There are ramps embossed on the sides of the cogs to catch the chain pins and lever the chain up to the next larger cog when the chain is shifted.  If you somehow reverse the cogs these ramps will be on the wrong side of the cogs and will be running the wrong direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T16:38:01.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10805" CreationDate="2012-08-15T17:08:19.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Hindsight glasses include fresnel lenses that widen the peripheral field, at the cost of increased distortion. As stated in the article, this is a design concept, so there's no guarantee it will ever make it to market. And although it's a neat idea, it would take a lot of testing to determine whether the tradeoffs are worth it for enough people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't the only example of fresnel glasses being used in eyewear. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2008/05/080512163833.htm&quot;&gt;Peripheral prism glasses&lt;/a&gt; have been used in research for how to improve the vision of patients with hemianopia (blindness in half of the visual field), but although this is a related concept, it requires a completely different design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, no, fresnel lenses to extend peripheral vision are not readily available in cycling glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T17:08:19.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10829" CreationDate="2012-08-15T18:13:56.550" Score="4" ViewCount="11166" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I take turns, my rear wheel is sliding to the outside of the turn. I'm riding a 2012 Norco Heart, brand new stock tires, single-speed. I'm not carrying much weight, or taking turns too tightly. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4787" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T16:10:23.750" Title="Rear wheel sliding/slipping on turns?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10818" CreationDate="2012-08-15T18:53:29.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to check that the rear wheel isn't coming loose on the axle. If the nuts that hold the bearings in have come a bit loose, the wheel might slip a little in the corners. If they are very loose, the wheel will wobble even when you're riding in a straight line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T18:53:29.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10802" CreationDate="2012-08-15T19:03:00.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention the bike's age or what it's made from. Older bikes will flex a lot more in general, but it would be more noticeable in the bottom bracket area. Steel frames will flex more than aluminum, which will flex more than carbon fiber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're putting a lot of torque on a bike with an old steel frame, maybe it's time to look at a new frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4788" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T19:03:00.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-15T20:17:57.273" Score="2" ViewCount="4628" Body="&lt;p&gt;A two wheel drive bike is a bike without a motor that can still turn. The front and back wheel both get power. How does a bike with this type of drivetrain work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4789" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-18T04:41:46.223" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T05:45:22.443" Title="How does a two wheel drive bike work?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8628" CreationDate="2012-08-15T20:26:14.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I originally bought a pair of Lorex sunglasses for this purpose but found them to be very uncomfortable. There is a built in light that can be seen out of the side vision so all of the components are already set up for a helmet. Looks easy enough to strip the components out of them and embed them in and behind the lining around the corners of my helmet so that the little pin cam can be looking out through the wind visor above my forehead. Probably not a solution but it is an experience to share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4790" LastEditorUserId="4548" LastEditDate="2012-10-17T15:27:18.427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T15:27:18.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10821" CreationDate="2012-08-15T20:36:21.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Offhand, I can't think of a way this could work; the reason you can have all-wheel drive on a car is because of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Differential_%28mechanical_device%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;differential gear&lt;/a&gt;. With one wheel in front of the other and the drive mechanism placed between them along the axis of travel there's no simple way to do it and still have a turnable front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penny_farthing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;penny farthing&lt;/a&gt; was able to apply the drive force to the front wheel by having the user sit almost completely on top of it, but the rear wheel still remained fixed. The large front wheel is a function of not being able to use gearing to increase the torque / rotation speed; in other words, every time the center of the wheel (with the pedals) spun once, &lt;a href=&quot;http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSUmXAmHkee2jB0v3YsoH2t7iMD69_Od2d22ufo--plbvzaJGQhBBqFWPhI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the outside of the wheel spun once&lt;/a&gt;. This wasn't very efficient, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other method I could think of would be to have some kind of flexible shaft driving the turnable wheel, but the loss in torque / speed would be huge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically the trike below has two-wheel drive, but it's also technically not a &quot;bicycle&quot; in that it's got more than two wheels. It's an interesting thought exercise. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZUtt9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZUtt9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind me asking, what would be the benefit of a two-wheel (front and back) drive bike? the power output would remain the same - one dude, pushing as hard as he can, will still only output one &quot;dude-power&quot; (&quot;dude-power&quot; is the amount of energy you get by burning Jeff Bridges. It's equivalent to about one-third of a &quot;Walter-hour&quot;). The small footprint of a bike won't gain anything appreciable from being able to apply torque to a different wheel (just lean back to get more traction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T05:37:21.783" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T05:37:21.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-15T20:51:19.657" Score="1" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has a 52/38 Biopace pair on a 5 bolt 130 crank (Shimano 105). I want to reduce the pedal load because I'm getting older and live in hilly Wales, UK.  I have bought a 42/28 Biopace pair. Unfortunately the smaller ring has a bcd of 74. I would like to know how to fix the smaller ring. Presumably I need a spider or a new crank. I am expecting to use the existing Shimano front derailleur (FD 1055) which has a 14-tooth capacity. Is this feasible ?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4792" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T21:12:31.403" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T20:02:47.873" Title="Lowering the gearing on a Shimano biopace double" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10821" CreationDate="2012-08-15T21:54:58.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somehow power needs to be transmitted to the front wheel without creating torque on the steering axis.  There are various differential (coaxial shaft) schemes that would sorta work (hard to believe, though, that they'd not have so much friction as to generate unacceptable steering torque), or one could use a belt drive with a belt that could twist on itself.  A flat belt running through the steering tube (perhaps with guides inside the tube where it would tend to twist on itself when turning) and attached to a drive pulley at the top would probably work, though it would be exceedingly awkward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also exceedingly awkward but worth a mention is &quot;windmill&quot; drive.  Have a reciprocating shaft running down the steering tube, operating a crank on the front wheel, and driven by a crank axle above.  This is the inverse of your standard windmill water pump where the reciprocating shaft from the windmill drives a water pump below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is electric drive.  In fact, most electric-assist bikes already have, in effect, 2-wheel drive.  One could add a generator to the back wheel to supply power to the front (in place of a battery), similar to the electric drive of submarines, diesel locomotives, and large military trucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T21:54:58.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10821" CreationDate="2012-08-15T21:57:45.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious answer is a linkage up to the head set, and down to the wheels. Hydraulics would be viable as well. However any power transfer system will lose power, which cyclists do not have in excess, which is probably why it has not been done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-08-16T13:40:28.933" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T13:40:28.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10821" CreationDate="2012-08-15T21:59:14.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been done,is being done and is wildly accepted by the few who feel the need for and have the wallet for, a two wheel drive bicycle. A google search for two wheel drive bicycle will yield enough hits to keep you busy for a few hours. Every one I have seen is flexible shaft drive. The shaft is driven by a gear mounted where the rear disc would be and a similar arrangement on the front. A flexible drive shaft connects the two gears. Maybe someday it will be the norm but for now it is more of a curiosity, hey people thought 29ers were a fad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T21:59:14.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10818" CreationDate="2012-08-15T22:05:43.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try adjusting the tire pressure you may be to high or to low. If it is low the sidewall can squirm inturns making handling inconsistant, too high and the tire can be so hard it bounces off the surface when hitting any imperfection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T22:05:43.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-15T22:55:34.287" Score="0" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a preowned Saracen Havoc 2000 (Team Saracen edition) and had to replace the original forks (Zokes branded double crown) as they were seized solid. Replaced them with an old but working set of RST Gila forks but now have a fair bit of flex where it moves a few mm's when rocked froward with full front brakes. Also makes a distinct knocking noise, as if something isnt fitting properly. Any help would be very grateful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4795" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T23:47:51.977" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T13:06:51.643" Title="Front suspension fork woes" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8628" CreationDate="2012-08-16T00:27:42.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Install any sort of helmet cam, then cover it with a small stuffed toy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T00:27:42.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-16T00:37:10.103" Score="7" ViewCount="32469" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I change my 26x2.10 MTB &lt;em&gt;knobbies&lt;/em&gt; by 26x1.95 &lt;em&gt;slick&lt;/em&gt; tires, will I feel any difference on my speed on paved roads? or is it going to be the same? I am kind of confused about how much I should change the width of my tires to notice an improvement in my speed. The reason: I will be using my MTB to commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4627" LastEditorUserId="10856" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T21:51:47.620" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T05:54:01.537" Title="Will a change from 26x2.10 to 26x1.95 tires improve speed?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10832" CreationDate="2012-08-16T01:19:18.720" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you run your knobbies at typical MTB pressures, and you run your slicks at higher pressures, you should experience less rolling resistance, which could translate to higher speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what tires you're talking about exactly, so it's hard to say how much of a difference it will make. I run some pretty aggressive knobbies on my MTB (Panaracer Fire XC Pros) and with &amp;lt;35 PSI in them, that makes for some noticeable rolling resistance. On my vintage no-suspension MTB, I run slicks with 60-65 PSI in them, and those are halfway to being road-bike-like. Even with the MTB gearing, I can hold 15-16 mph on that bike for a decent amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did not indicate what kind of suspension your MTB has. With any suspension, you're probably going to get a little pedal bob, which will rob you of some energy. That, combined with the upright riding position, will hold you back a little. But the engine (your strength) is more of a factor than tires, suspension, and bike weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once upon a time a friend of mine-- road bike rider, likes Italian bikes, pretty fit at the time-- used to regularly get passed on a local muni trail by this little guy on a vintage mountain bike who was dressed in street clothes and riding to/from work. These roadies would be doing a paceline at a good speed, and the little guy on the mountain bike would just roll right past them, comfortably holding 2-3 mph faster. I wasn't there, so I can't tell you if the mountain bike guy had modified his bike or what. But he used to say &quot;good morning&quot; or something similar, every time he passed them, with a big smile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T01:19:18.720" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8628" CreationDate="2012-08-16T06:24:28.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Must it be helmet mounted? I own a set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spycamhidden.com/hd-720p-sunglasses-spy-camcorder-camera-p-18.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;720P Sunglasses&lt;/a&gt; shown here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u7E69.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;720P Sunglasses&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I fried a my first pair from water getting in by the buttons and USB port, I put black electrical tape over the buttons and seam, and they are now effectively waterproof. The battery life is 2.5-3 hours, and they record to my 16GB MicroSD card, which can then be put right into my computer. The two buttons are easy to find and press (even under the tape).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T06:24:28.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10830" CreationDate="2012-08-16T13:06:51.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your headset is loose. Have you properly rebuilt the stack order of the bearings, cups, shims and lower race?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure your star nut / top cap is pretty snug with the stem bolts loose, so you can fully seat the headset stack. Then tighten the stem bolts on the steerer tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T13:06:51.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10818" CreationDate="2012-08-16T13:12:19.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your body position may be an issue. When the terrein is loose, you need more weight on top of the bike. So as you lean and carve into the corner, you may need to lean the bike, and your body at different angles. Essentially leaning your body less, and shifting weight to still provide downward pressure vs all lateral pressure relying too much on grip and inertia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And tire pressure for the right terrain is key. If its loose, 32psi and above will break loose faster than say 28psi. If you have to go by feel, you need it to press in a bit if you squeezed it with your thumb, or if you are on it, guess 20% compression squish would be a best guess for your weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T13:12:19.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10839" CreationDate="2012-08-16T13:30:28.027" Score="2" ViewCount="5669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have acquired a cheap old Peugeot road bike from ebay; nice cromo frame, but it needs a new rear wheel and unfortunately I didn't check the dropout size before buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has an OLD of ~120mm, but I am finding it very hard to source any new or second hand wheels that would fit that, and most of those that do seem designed for fixed sprockets. There are plenty of seemingly 'cheap and cheerful' wheels with 135mm hubs that would otherwise be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on frame cold-setting makes it sound easy, but I'm worried it'll be hard to adjust each side to be exactly 7.5mm further out and keep the wheel central, even using the string method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone got practical experience of this? In addition, will there be any other effects on the running of the bike I've missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4797" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T20:09:45.000" Title="Can a (relative) beginner adjust spacing on a 501 cromo road frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10837" CreationDate="2012-08-16T14:51:37.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another article&lt;/a&gt; on dropout spacing which you may want to read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear dropouts on road bikes are typically 120mm, 126mm, and 130mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;135mm is usually found on mountain bikes. If you're planning to use MTB wheels on a road frame, you'll have other concerns besides spreading the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far as I understand it, the rule of thumb says that going up one &quot;size&quot; when it comes to older steel road frames is OK. In other words, go ahead and use 126mm hubs on a steel frame with 120mm dropouts, but maybe not 130mm hubs. Most steel frames have a little flex, which permit the rear dropouts to be spread a few millimeters in order to accept a newer (wider) hub, but going from 120mm to 130mm may cause problems with the dropouts coming out of alignment. Your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other possible solutions. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/817322-Spreading-aluminum-stays&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recent thread on BF mentions off-center rims&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T14:51:37.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10837" CreationDate="2012-08-16T14:56:20.593" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to be respacing, I'd suggest an alternative method from sheldon's 2x4 method. Use a threaded rod with washers and nuts. It's far more controlled and easier to keep your frame aligned, plus you can keep it in the stand as you work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See here &lt;a href=&quot;https://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c267/fixedweasel/DSC02122.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AkOqn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AkOqn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to adjust the dropout alignment, you can adjust thusly &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c267/fixedweasel/DSC02123.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c267/fixedweasel/DSC02123.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-02-22T20:09:45.000" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T20:09:45.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-16T17:05:14.597" Score="-1" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;The derailer on my 21-speed bike looks like it's bent. It won't let the chain go onto the 3rd ring of the front derailer so, no I can't shift past the 14th speed. If I try it makes a loud sound, like it's about to rip apart the whole bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure whether the cable is loose or tight, but the derailer does looks bent. How can I fix or adjust this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4799" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-08-17T21:37:40.397" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T21:37:40.397" Title="the derailer is touching chain and it won't let me go past 14 speed supposed to go 21 speeds" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10832" CreationDate="2012-08-16T18:48:44.633" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made this change myself.  You won't notice a speed improvement, but there will be a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; slight effort reduction that might lead to a &lt;em&gt;tiny&lt;/em&gt; bit more speed.  You'll notice that you don't slow down as fast when coasting, meaning it takes a tiny bit less power to maintain speed when pedalling.  But not enough to go noticably faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest improvement will be the noise reduction :-)  And fast cornering (on the road) will feel more secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1674" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T18:48:44.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10832" CreationDate="2012-08-16T20:14:34.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you will notice a difference, but if/when you go back to knobbly mountain bike tyres, you will notice a huge difference. It will be much more noisy, going round corners at any speed will feel strange and insecure and you will not coast anything like as far when you stop pedalling. From all this, I think you can conclude that the effort for the same speed is reduced with slicks. You will also start to think that mountain bikes with 2.1 inch tyres look like they have doughnuts for wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also probably notice that your tyres last longer too. Long distance commuting on knobbly types wears out the central knobs, leaving them unsuitable for much at all. If you commute in the wet, the knobs also throw up more water from the sides that lands on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used unbranded back street bike shop 26x1 and Specialized 26x1.5 road tyres (with tread, not slicks) on my mountain bike for all weather commuting and both lasted for ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you pump the tyres up to their recommended pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4728" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T20:14:34.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10845" CreationDate="2012-08-16T21:07:32.193" Score="13" ViewCount="24992" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have road tires that have a recommended pressure of 110 PSI and maximum of 120 PSI can I safely pump my tires up to that level or does the inner tube effect the maximum? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have the tires pumped up to 90 PSI however the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2744/what-pressure-should-i-run-my-road-bike-tyres-at&quot;&gt;What Pressure Should I Run My Road Bike Tyres At&lt;/a&gt; seems to indicate I should go for the full 110. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels when I'm pumping that it would be very hard to pump above the 90 mark and I am wondering if the quality of the inner tube (or a inner tube max PSI) could be the reason. Should I just go for it and try to pump it up to 110 PSI or am I best off leaving my tires at 90 PSI?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4731" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T14:36:32.983" Title="Does the inner tube affect the maximum PSI?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10843" CreationDate="2012-08-16T21:39:48.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause of the increase in difficulty at higher pressure is the mechanics of the pump. You have to work harder to squeeze more air in the tube. The tire rating is the controlling factor in constraining the tube. The tire construction supports the tube to allow it hold the air at high pressure. Pressures higher than the tire rating cause the tire to fail. Without the tire to support the tube it would pop like a balloon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T21:39:48.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10843" CreationDate="2012-08-16T22:30:49.153" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inner tube has no significant effect on max pressure.  The valve stem area is the only area sensitive to pressure, and in general the valve can withstand 200 PSI or better.  (And if you exceed whatever limit there is the result is &quot;catastrophic&quot; failure, not simply the inability to pump in more air.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it sounds like you're noticing is the geometry of the pump.  A piston pump has a compression ratio, just like a cylinder in an engine, and the max pressure that the pump can generate is that compression ratio multiplied times the 14 PSI of atmospheric pressure.  In general, pumps are designed either to move a lot of air at low compression ratio to fill low pressure tires quickly, or to move less air at a higher compression ratio to be able to fill high pressure tires at all (though more slowly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good quality pumps will be advertised with a stated maximum pressure, and you can fill tires reasonably fast to 80-90% of that max pressure, after which progress will slow to a crawl.  So when you shop for a pump you need to pay attention to that number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-08-16T23:02:59.183" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T23:02:59.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10840" CreationDate="2012-08-17T02:18:59.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your derailleur looks bent, then it's probably bent. Take it to a bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T02:18:59.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12788" CreationDate="2012-08-17T03:24:34.123" Score="6" ViewCount="2749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an alternative to the Speedlifter Twist: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.speedlifter.com/twist.php?L=en&quot;&gt;http://www.speedlifter.com/twist.php?L=en&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only function I'm interested in is the parking feature where I can turn my handlebar 90˚. I have a small apartment and it would really save a lot of space. I know of the flipphandle (http://www.bikesnapp.com/flipphandle.shtml), but it doesn't appear that the company ever actually put it into production. Has anyone seen anything affordable with similar functionality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4787" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T15:27:00.440" Title="Looking for an alternative to the Speedlifter Twist / quickly rotate handlebars solution" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;parking&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10840" CreationDate="2012-08-17T03:36:07.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, all front derailers look like they're bent.  If you can't figure out the above-referenced web sites, and don't have a buddy that knows bikes, then likely a few minutes at a bike shop will fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'd attempt to tell you what to do here, but you first need to learn the terminology enough to describe the problem to us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T03:36:07.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10852" CreationDate="2012-08-17T04:06:15.173" Score="4" ViewCount="3866" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple weeks ago I bought a new road bike for commuting to work with. Part of the commute is along the beach bike path, so there's usually some sand on it. Last week my tires slipped on the sand and I scraped my leg a bit. There was quite a bit of blood and a lot of sand in the wound, but luckily I had brought a rag with me (it was clean, but I brought it thinking I might need it to wipe chain grease of my hands) and some sanitizing wipes so I was able to do a decent job of cleaning it until I got home. I used the rag to wipe up the blood so I could see what I was doing and also to wipe off as much excess sand as I could. I then poured some of my water over it, then used the wipes to clear up some more of the blood and try to get rid of more of the sand. I was about 12 miles from home and this was all I did before I got there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are few questions I have at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Was there something else I could have done about the sand?&lt;/strong&gt; I REALLY didn't want a ton of dirty sand in an open wound, but I also didn't want to rub the sand into it either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I have used the ocean water to clear away more sand and further sanitize the wound?&lt;/strong&gt; I considered going to the water to help cleanup, but I didn't want to get my feet sandy and socks wet, and wasn't sure if it would even help at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I have done anything else before biking back/while biking back?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been more than a week, and each day I've been putting hydrogen peroxide on it, letting it get as much air as possible, and then putting a band-aid on it. I'm a little concerned though, because it hasn't scabbed yet. It seems like the band-aid is absorbing everything that would be forming the scab. I would leave the band-aids off more, but I'm still biking into work and wearing jeans there. &lt;strong&gt;How should I be taking care of the wound now?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is appreciated! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4186" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T06:18:25.710" Title="Dealing with a scrape (cleaning a wound)?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;injury&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-08-17T09:04:42.400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10849" CreationDate="2012-08-17T04:27:36.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I would be off to the doctor for professional advise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T04:27:36.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10812" CreationDate="2012-08-17T05:06:13.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you find that higher volumes of commuters mean a worst commute for you personally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not bad if you ride smart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look 20+ meters ahead, to see possible choke points &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Know how capable you are to make a sprint, because you might need the speed to get past traffic that will choke.  That sprint can also help you get back in motion if you get stuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pass, or don't.  It really compounds the issue when someone pulls out to pass but doesn't get ahead.  I personally don't think anyone should be riding side-by-side on commuter lanes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Please ride straight.  No one likes a meandering bike - the unpredictability makes things rather dangerous&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Know your route.  Be aware of the places there visibility is poor, because I've had a few entitled pedestrians get pissed that they walked into traffic -- so take a wider track because accidents can happen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be smart about stopping.  Don't do it in the middle of the lane, or in a corner.  Pull over and off the lane before dismounting, in a highly visible (where traffic in either direction can see you for ~20 meters) portion of the route if at all possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be courteous to oncoming traffic.  I get as far over to the right as I can (if not already) when I see oncoming traffic getting stuck &amp;amp; wanting to make a move.  Doesn't mean they'll take advantage, but some seem to notice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bell is a courtesy, but considering iPods/etc the point can be moot (even worse off if the person has a hoodie pulled up).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I try to give as much space and consideration as possible to those with kids, pets, skateboards, roller bladers and the elderly.  But there's going to eventually be someone who doesn't like how close you came...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there considerations built in to the larger bikeways to allow riders to keep a faster pace (i.e., multiple marked lanes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can only speak for my local area, which does not.  One section used to have a sign saying traffic was limited to 10 km/h, but it's been removed (I guess because few cyclists have a spedometer).  Just a stripe down the middle...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T05:06:13.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10849" CreationDate="2012-08-17T06:18:25.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ocean is not sanitary! Especially around major cities, so if you were on a bike path, there is a good chance you are close enough to civilization to where the ocean is not good for your wounds. I grew up in a beach house in Hawaii and know that until the wound closes you don't want to go swimming, you can get it infected. Happened to my foot, frekn SUCKED! Samoans wash off in the ocean after they get tattoos, but they are not as industrialized as we are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sand itself is not really that bad, not as bad as the dirt that is mingled with it. Washing it out with clean water and covering it with that rag, as long as it didn't have grease on it, should have been good enough to get you home where you could clean it better. The problem you are having isn't so much with what you did the first hour or so but sounds more like what you did after you got home wasn't enough. Hydrogen peroxide is good, keeping it clean, make sure there is no sand in there. Band-aids are supposed to take the place of the scab, so that is why you are not scabbing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are sure it is clean and you keep it clean with fresh bandages you should be OK. Some wounds take 3 weeks to start to look better. If the skin around the wound looks red and swollen (as opposed to scraped up from the road rash) then you might need to break down and go to a DR. I hate going to the DRs more than the any one I know, but there are times when a bunch of people you don't know giving you medical advice just isn't good enough...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T06:18:25.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10821" CreationDate="2012-08-17T08:44:00.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend Chad Harrington out of Chula Vista made one back in 1993. It didn't really catch on, but it will give you an idea of how to make one. I doubt that phone number is still active, but I wonder if &quot;Turner Drive Systems&quot; is still in existence for some input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also read a little about it at &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/OpQ4XL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BMXMuseum.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EA0Yl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2-Wheel Drive BMX&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T08:44:00.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10837" CreationDate="2012-08-17T09:23:21.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility:&#xA;Change the width of the hub.&#xA;Many hubs have spacers that can be removed so you can convert them to 126 mm or even less.&#xA;You would have to change/shorten the axle though.&#xA;I have done that often enough, it is less obtrusive than bending the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T09:23:21.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10832" CreationDate="2012-08-17T14:50:32.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did this a few years ago on an old mtb when I started to use it for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However going to 1.95 hardly seems worth it - I bought a pair of Conti Gatorskins at 1.25. You'll need new innertubes with these too, but you'll find your ride a lot easier and faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T14:50:32.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10857" CreationDate="2012-08-17T19:23:12.550" Score="4" ViewCount="1909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm rebuilding an older Mercier and have decided to tackle the bottom bracket. I've read a few articles and watched a few videos on how to remove the crank but none of them look anything like what I've got on this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, there are bolt threads on one side and a 'nub' on the other side that would indicate that this is what I would remove the crank arm with, but I'm not having any luck removing the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached a picture as I'm sure I'm probably not using the correct terms for some of these parts.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFr6f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4610" LastEditorUserId="4610" LastEditDate="2012-08-17T20:08:08.363" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T20:08:08.363" Title="Can't remove crank arm on older Mercier" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10856" CreationDate="2012-08-17T19:34:25.060" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are looking at is called a &quot;Cottered Crank&quot;. The shaped cotter pin holds the crank in place and they can be next to impossible to remove without significant effort or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesmithdesign.com/CotterPress/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cotter pin press&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has an excellent article on removing &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;cottered cranks&lt;/a&gt; using a hammer and pipe, which is a method I have used before, albeit multiple decades ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get it off you may want to consider replacing the bottom bracket and cranks with a more modern design that is easier to maintain, unless this is a restoration job and you want to stay true to the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T19:34:25.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-18T02:02:03.007" Score="-1" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy something that lets me mount my bike on the wall. What's a product I could use? Something sturdy, cheap, and easy to set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4811" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T02:18:53.130" Title="I want to buy something that lets me mount my bike on the wall. What could I buy?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-08-18T04:43:25.363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10859" CreationDate="2012-08-18T02:18:53.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Swagman/S80960.html?feed=npn&amp;amp;gclid=CKPowIWN8LECFfNxMgodByIA6w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;floor-to-ceiling bike hanger&lt;/a&gt; is one option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or a fancier &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoanything.com/bike-racks/69A5367A0A0.aspx?kc=ffproduct&amp;amp;gclid=CN7J6JWO8LECFdNxMgod6ywAVw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;storage rack&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or a simple &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nycewheels.com/ac-rack-storage-racor-b1.html?gclid=CJyXtqmN8LECFQgUKgod7yMAvg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wall hook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T02:18:53.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-18T06:36:26.187" Score="1" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Trek Navigator 1. I just installed a hitch and a Allen 2 bike rack. BUT the Trek has a verry angled top tube. so the front tire is only a couple of inches off the ground. Would a Yakima or other brand tube adapter work on the Trek? Which is stronger or rather snugger fitting?  Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4535" LastEditorUserId="3124" LastEditDate="2012-08-18T13:50:06.530" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T13:50:06.530" Title="top tube adapter for hitch mount carrier" Tags="&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10861" CreationDate="2012-08-18T12:37:52.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yakima and Thule and probably most other rack companies have top tube adapters. They all recognize the need to accommodate the sloping top tube/y frame/children's bike market. They will all function relatively the same. Unless you have an ultra lightweight delicate carbon frame/seatpost, which I don't believe your bicycle qualifies for that, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of them are adjustable so you can make them fit snugly and securely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T12:37:52.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11020" CreationDate="2012-08-18T23:03:01.560" Score="1" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;A variety of manufacturers make snap in wedge bag mounts. The mount attaches to the saddle rails and the bag snaps into the mount.  Does  know which brands if any interchange? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3311" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T11:37:45.483" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T19:13:48.277" Title="wedge/saddle rail mounted bags interchange" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10843" CreationDate="2012-08-19T02:49:55.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the tire limiting PSI, rim tape is also a factor. Cheap rim tape can prevent higher pressures since they, and the tube, will dimple into the spoke holes of the wheel. Over time, this can cause the tube to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4815" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T02:49:55.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10874" CreationDate="2012-08-19T17:35:15.357" Score="7" ViewCount="15801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now have my first road bike. When I am pumping up the tyres with what seems like a sturdy pump (that you stand on and push with two hands), I can barely get to around 100 psi, even putting my back into it. Is this normal, or am I just weak? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes: Valves are obviously presta, which I 'unscrew' and depress to let a little air out before connecting the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4801" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T14:40:12.590" Title="Could I be pumping up my tyres the wrong way?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8502" CreationDate="2012-08-19T19:23:57.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not really sure what you mean by low maintenance, but if a bike is going to get even mildly dirty then not cleaning it will increase the wear and reduce it's life significantly. Furthermore, all bikes benefit from oiling and it doesn't take long; although to be honest I don't know if there are bikes available that are low maintenance in terms of not needing to oil them as much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend some along the lines of the bike posted by zenbike. I will add this though: having less gears may be harder work (perhaps no difference in the city though), disc brakes offer superior braking power to v-brakes but they do need more maintenance, especially if hydraulic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both Marin and Specialised catch my eye, but that's personal preference. Finally, good luck! :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4801" LastActivityDate="2012-08-19T19:23:57.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10867" CreationDate="2012-08-20T05:35:10.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a problem somewhere. With a floor pump you should be able to get into the 110 range with little effort. Some pumps are not designed for higher pressures and this may be the cause, but I'm guessing something else is a bit askew here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without more information, my first thought would be to stop by your LBS. Any small shop and even most big ones will take the time to show you how to pump up the tire. Don't worry about this seeming &quot;simple&quot;...with all the different variants out there, even I have problems with some pumps and I work part time as a bike mechanic. If there is a problem with your pump (or possibly your valve, but if it's letting air out it's probably good), the shop will be able to diagnose and let you know what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more: What brand/model pump are you using? What type of head does the pump have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T05:35:10.577" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2012-08-20T16:29:55.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have over 3,000 commuting miles on the following pannier (it's more like a folding suit bag).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.twowheelgear.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Two Wheel Gear Bicycle Commuter Pannier&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carry dress shoes, dress pants, a dress shirt, my 17&quot; laptop, rain gear, a small tool bag, a towel for my shower at work, and more inside the pannier. It has several pockets/compartments that close with zippers, and is made of a durable canvas-like material. It has carrying handles, and a removable shoulder strap. The only complaint I have about it is that the zipper broke on 2 small pockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4826" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T13:17:15.203" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T13:17:15.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10867" CreationDate="2012-08-20T20:38:50.943" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had such experiences even at much lower pressures, (I ride diverse disciplines of mountain bike, so I use my tires around 40 PSI, but still...). I have found three main causes for inflation difficulty:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will discard air leaks as this one is pretty obvoius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Faulty valve: Some valves get somewow obstructed, and won't get air in as easily as it should. This has happen to me with three types of vaole: Schrader, Presta and Dunlop. To test for this, inflate the tube while it's off the tire. You should feel almost no resistance, since the tire is not there to build up pressure. The tube should inflate quickly. You can also try a different valve core (Dunlops are easily changeable, but not too widely used, Schraders require a special tool but are also easily changeable. Some presta valves are changeable but not all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Pump design: Some pumps are simply, by design, not capable of much mechanic advantage, so it is harder for the operator to achieve high pressures. The force required to push down the pump's piston is the pressure in the chamber multiplied by the piston area, thus, a pump with a large area piston is harder to push, but, usually such pump will put in a bigger amount of air per stroke. As per my personal experience with a wide range of pumps, for a floor pump the best sacrifice is a pump with piston area of about one square inch (roughly one inch in diameter). It will be painfully slow for 2.5 downhill tires, but will easily pump the pressures required for road tires. (For my downhills I use a cheap pump that has a piston with 1.5 diameter, its quick, but you'd start to suffer at 45 or 50 psi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) (or 2.2 if wou will...) Flawed pump: This is somehow related to the previous point, but this reffers to some defect, design error, damage, wear, etc. I have used pumps that have restrictive hose, valve (almost any pump has a 'check' valve) or connector. If this is the case, sometimes these parts can be cnanged or modified, but most of the times, it's not worthy. To test for this, press the pump without anything attached. The pump should move freely, with almost zero effort and you should hear the air hissing out without restriction. In fact, you would not be able to exerpt any force donw the handle, it will quickly go down before you know it. If you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; apply noticeable force, this may be the cause. This is more common with cheap pumps, but there are brands able to sell expensive ones from time to time. Restriction to air flow can also be due to debris that somehow got inside the air ducts or the valve. If the pump is serviceable with regular tools, then carefully disassemble it to check the hose, the connector and the valve or any other narrow air passages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally there are other issues tha can come up with a pump, but they are rather obvious and do not seem to be your case: such as piston seizure (It is difficult to displace the handle even as slow rate) or seal failure (gives the oposite symptom, you can not apply gerat force to the handle because the air is leaking out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perform some tests to discard possible causes: inflate someone else's tires with your pump, borrow a pump with different design as yours and use it on your tires. You'll easily find the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2012-08-21T15:24:44.233" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T15:24:44.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-20T23:39:33.350" Score="5" ViewCount="37904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently damaged my rear derailleur and am trying to find the replacement online.  It is a Shimano Tourney SIS Index.  I have found several models in the Shimano website that are pretty close matches, but am wondering if there some way to determine the model or is there a hidden product number in the unit somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4830" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-08-22T20:42:56.023" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T06:13:04.677" Title="How do I determine the model of my Shimano Rear Derailleur?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10867" CreationDate="2012-08-21T00:54:20.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My pump exhibits similar behaviour if I don't put the valve far enough into the pump head.  I find that I have to put the pump quite far in, and that sometimes even though I hear air coming out before I lock the pump on, it's still not on far enough. Luckily I've found a way to tell if the head is on correctly before I start pumping. My pump has a &quot;button&quot; that you can press that will release the air from the tire (which is useful if you pump the tires up a bit too much).  After attaching the pump head to the valve, I press this button for a few seconds. If the air flows freely out, I know that the valve is properly connected, and I will be easily able to pump up my tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T00:54:20.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10875" CreationDate="2012-08-21T04:13:15.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of different versions of the Shimano Tourney, I found the TX35 and TX55, both in a bolt on and rear hanger version. The way these mount must match your bike...if you can post a picture, someone here can likely identify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have much trouble finding these online, all four versions that I can get are available via Amazon for about the same price, under $20, as they would do at a bike shop...or put another way, you aren't going to save much/any money online so why not support your LBS (local bike shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that most bike shops probably won't carry these in stock (the larger ones might), but just about any shop should be able to get one in for you in less than a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of your question looks to be cut off, I suspect you were starting to ask how hard is it to replace the derailleur and tune the drive train. Not super hard, but you will want to take it slow and not be afraid to get help. Watch a couple of the how-to videos on Youtube and read through some of the answers to rear derailleur questions here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have questions, come on back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastEditorUserId="31582" LastEditDate="2017-02-19T11:38:21.313" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T11:38:21.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10821" CreationDate="2012-08-21T09:03:07.113" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll find everything you want to know at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ophidian2x2.com/whyawd.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ophidian AWD bicycles&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The provided link has rotted.  Here's the only photo found that shows the concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n428v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n428v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One line fromn their website &quot;The addition of front-wheel-drive allows riders to successfully negotiate new terrain and in adverse weather conditions that normal bikes dare not go. Examples are snow, mud, steep slopes, sand and slick city streets.&quot;  Because slick city streets stop normal bikes in their tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T05:45:22.443" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T05:45:22.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-21T11:16:46.520" Score="12" ViewCount="1586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a nice 12 km commute where lots of different bicyclers travel. The entire stretch is only for pedestrians&amp;amp;bicycles, no cars to worry about.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a regular old 5-speed bike (not a racing bicycle or mountain bike), but I'm a very fast biker compared to the general bike traffic I see (average 25-30 km/h). I'm only overtaken by people on electrobikes, and by fanatics (all the right gear, but no bell because it weighs 12 grams?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be interesting to ride closely behind someone whose speed matches mine, but what's the protocol for doing this, apart from road safety concerns? Should I address people first, ask their permission? Or do I just approach from behind and stay close to them, without specifically indicating that I'm there? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At my speed, I won't be stalking a granny -- it would probably only ever be a lone hobby race cyclist here or there. Note that I am steering clear of team bicyclists; they probably have their own patterns that I don't want to interfere with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noted someone following me a few times (without any indication) but it doesn't bother me because people who can keep up with me usually overtake me after a while anyway, so at best I've given them a moment's pause. As long as they don't crash me, they're welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Add-on question:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's clearly more &lt;em&gt;polite&lt;/em&gt; to take turns leading, but does it cost you more &lt;em&gt;energy&lt;/em&gt; when someone is following you, compared to cycling alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="275" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T17:44:23.370" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T20:56:26.900" Title="Protocol for slipstreaming another cyclist?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;&lt;drafting&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10879" CreationDate="2012-08-21T11:58:59.620" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found it courteous to come up beside the person and ask permission. I usually say &quot;how far you going?&quot; or &quot;mind if I join you?&quot;. The real key is to take turns drafting. If the person says yes, I  usually take the first pull in front just to show them I'm not a wheel sucker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an avid cyclist, I've found very few things more annoying than riding for a good chunk of time, only to look back and find someone just sitting on your wheel with no announcement or indication that they are there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T11:58:59.620" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10879" CreationDate="2012-08-21T11:59:13.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When people do this with me, I indicate after half a mile or so that I'll let them take the lead for a while, and then without much further discussion we tend to rotate like that until one turns off - and generally we'll wave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never really formalised this though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T11:59:13.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14020" CreationDate="2012-08-21T12:56:05.573" Score="32" ViewCount="26278" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recumbent_bicycle&quot;&gt;Recumbent bicycles&lt;/a&gt; are more efficient than ordinary upright bicycles, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velomobile&quot;&gt;velomobiles&lt;/a&gt; are even more efficient. Then why do we see them so rarely on the road? Is it because they are expensive, or are there some non-financial, significant disadvantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastActivityDate="2018-03-03T02:57:31.953" Title="Why do we rarely see recumbents and almost never see velomobiles?" Tags="&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10879" CreationDate="2012-08-21T13:47:16.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that the safest approach would be join on behind for enough time to adequately work out the person's speed (30-60 seconds) then to pass them slowly and deliberately, slowly, move back in, offering your wheel in return (i.e. take your time, don't massively accelerate and then brake - if you've a computer, you know the speed they were at, match it when you're in front as quickly as possible). They would probably not have noticed you, but by deliberately swapping places, you're explicitly offering to share the work - and they can then show their answer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slackening their pace and letting you go &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sticking to you and then passing you &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dropping the hammer and leaving you for dust (strictly an attempt to drop a perceived &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fred_%28bicycling%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fred&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's the safety angle that would most concern me; riding in a paceline,  swapping the lead duties, but mostly the riding close to the lead rider's rear wheel is tricky and not everyone can do safely at speed. An organised line will have signals and protocols borne from shared experience and these are important in avoiding obstacles and reacting to events - you'll be missing these, and you'll be in a potentially more target rich (i.e. many slower peers) environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the question of expense, there are some references, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exploratorium.edu/cycling/aerodynamics2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.exploratorium.edu/cycling/aerodynamics2.html&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclesource.com/slipstreaming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclesource.com/slipstreaming&lt;/a&gt;, suggesting that the lead rider could actively benefit from being drafted due to the effects of the air closing back around them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2012-08-21T14:06:25.753" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T14:06:25.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10879" CreationDate="2012-08-21T14:11:09.000" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It might be interesting to ride closely behind someone whose speed matches mine, but what's the protocol for doing this, apart from road safety concerns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, if you can keep up then you can draft someone.  There's no asking involved, but it is appreciated if you switch up to lead for a little while.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the speeds you're talking, with the exception of those on electric bikes, most of those cyclists will be involved in some form of cycling (track or road, mountain less so) so they aren't as bothered as others might be.  Some will get &quot;cat 6&quot; on you, and try to drop you if they notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real issue is that the person leading needs to communicate their movement, like avoiding obstacles (glass, people, holes, etc).  Drafting really close (wheels are close -- within 1 inch/2.5 cm, or far worse - overlapping) gets more dangerous at the higher speeds because as the person drafting, you don't have the time to react to quick braking/etc.  As the person drafting, you should not be relying on the leader/person ahead to point stuff out - you should be looking ahead and around to anticipate as much as you can for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;does it cost you more energy when someone is following you, compared to cycling alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  The leader is working harder, breaking the wind for those behind them.  Having people behind you doesn't change that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastEditorUserId="2735" LastEditDate="2012-08-21T23:55:34.273" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T23:55:34.273" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2012-08-21T15:31:07.750" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;Talked to a guy who had a velomobile at a local charity ride. He said the thing cost $5000. Recumbents, while not as expensive as velomobiles are also quite expensive. Usually over $2000. That could be part of the reason. Sure, with economies of scale, they could be made cheaper, but that's kind of a chicken and an egg problem.  Also, even though recumbents and velomobiles are so much more efficient, they do have quite a few of their own problems.  Because they have so much extra weight, they tend to be quite a bit slower on the hills. Many people also don't like being so close to the ground.  I like being able to stand on my pedals and see over most of the cars when riding in traffic.  Also, regular bikes are pretty efficient these days. For $1000 you can get a pretty good bike. And one last thing. Don't underestimate the &quot;conformity&quot; factor.  Many people don't want to be seen as weird, or outsiders, and want to fit in with social norms. Riding a bike is already going against social norms in many places. For some people, having a recumbent just takes things a bit outside their comfort zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T15:31:07.750" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2012-08-21T16:08:40.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the biggest reason is that they're very expensive niche machines that, for most people, do not offer enough clear advantages over regular bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big reason you don't see more recumbents is safety in traffic. If you're on a &quot;normal&quot; bicycle, you're (theoretically) going to be relatively more visible to motor vehicles than if you're lying close to the floor on a recumbent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastEditorUserId="4307" LastEditDate="2012-08-21T16:23:30.703" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T16:23:30.703" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10784" CreationDate="2012-08-21T17:14:15.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, today I got both saddles, and I can answer my own question :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those saddles are twins, you know already about the weight difference (Targa is heavier), and the only difference I found which was not in spec is flex of the shell. Henge is very stiff (the shell, not the padding), while Targa is rather flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;And while I am writing this, I rode Henge Test 143, it is very comfy for male organs (three of them), however because its wings don't flex down, it constantly gets in the way of moving thighs. 130 version might be the better though in this regard.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T17:14:15.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2012-08-21T18:34:23.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really feel you're very wrong by painful methods such as &quot;let 'em fall&quot; to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want them to learn without training wheels, run beside them and grab the handlebars when the look like they're going to fall over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to be fit and fast to do this, but it can be done (I did it twice for 2 kids).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a note, &lt;a href=&quot;https://parenting.stackexchange.com/a/5867/1850&quot;&gt;if they use the training wheels for a couple of months, they will learn to ride&lt;/a&gt;.  In my experience I have nothing against training wheels, and I learned that rushing to take them off early actually causes more pain than it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To repeat my answer at the other site, basically to sum they started with training wheels, when the older one (who was 3 at the time) looked ready, I thought it was time to take them off, so we did, and I trained him by running beside the bike and grabbing the handlebars whenever he looked as though he was going to fall over. (You have to have a lot of endurance to do this, and as you'll see it was an ineffective strategy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second one, I realized that I kind of rushed it for the first one. When the second one turned 3, after about a month into the summer this year (20 minute bike rides almost every day), I noticed he didn't rely on the wheels as much. So I removed the training wheels, and ran alongside him like I did for the first one the previous year, but the difference was, he didn't need my help after the first 20 minutes. He was riding on his own without a need for help after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, basically it's practice. I realized I actually overexhausted myself by rushing the first one. There's no rush. Keep the training wheels until he's comfortable with them on. I think the 2 seasons of practice with training wheels is what made the 2nd 3 year old able to ride without training wheels so easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4833" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:41:16.267" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T18:34:23.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2012-08-21T19:00:05.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right or wrong, I think a lot of people just see recumbents as &quot;dorky&quot;. I think its more a perception bias than efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T19:00:05.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="437" CreationDate="2012-08-21T19:25:27.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the last two worn-out road tires I replaced, I've noticed a pattern in wear that seems to be fairly consistent. This isn't a large sample size, but the tires were from different brands, and the wear seemed consistent with various comments I've seen from others. Based on your own tradeoff between cost- and safety-consciousness, you have to decide at which stage in the wear process you need to replace the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, the tread (if present) begins to wear. Not all road tires have tread, and in most cases it's purely cosmetic.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then, the tire develops a flattened, almost squared-off shape instead of the round shape that a new tire has.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Next, the tire starts getting a lot of small cuts in a short period of time. This doesn't necessarily mean there are flats or that the cuts are deep. (After removing the tire, I could more easily see that the outermost layer of rubber was extremely thin and beginning to delaminate. This explains why I was seeing so many small cuts.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the outermost layer of rubber wears through and threads begin to appear. By this point, the tire is definitely unsafe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process might not be exactly the same for all tire models, but I've noticed it in several of them. Of course, even a new tire should be replaced if it develops any signs of trauma as discussed in other answers (bulges, cracks, or gashes), or if the frequency of punctures increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T19:25:27.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10825" CreationDate="2012-08-21T20:02:47.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of a crankset that has one 130 mm bcd chainring and one 74 mm bcd chainring.  However most Shimano triples have two 130 and one 74 chainring.  So you can use this and only populate the inner and middle chainring positions.  A used one shouldn't cost much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a couple of quirks about using only the inner and middle chainring position.  You may need a longer bottom bracket to get the chain-line correct.  Also, you'll need either single speed chainring bolts for the 42t ring or some spacers (the standard chainring bolts assume you have two chainrings).  Your local bike shop should be able to supply you with all of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will work, I've done this on several bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative you could ditch the Biopace rings and get a 110 mm bcd triple.  (Sugino makes a nice one for about $80 US with 26-36-46 rings).  The 110 bcd will give you a wider range of chainrings you can install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4835" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T20:02:47.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10802" CreationDate="2012-08-21T20:13:57.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are all good ideas but I like the idea of frame flexing due to a damaged frame.  Phantom shifting can often be cause by poor chainline.  Since you didn't have this problem before the accident I'd suspect something tweaked or cracked in the frame, especially in the bottom bracket or chainstays (this is where most torque is transmitted to the rear wheel).  I'm guessing that as you pedal hard it causes the frame to flex more now that it did before the accident causing a poor chainline and the chain to drop to the smaller ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the annoying phantom shifting, you may also have a safety issue with the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4835" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T20:13:57.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10926" CreationDate="2012-08-21T20:23:16.133" Score="2" ViewCount="2303" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I replaced my rear tire this week, I expected an almost intangible improvement in weight, rolling resistance, and grip. However, I have noticed a significantly less &quot;bouncy&quot; ride. The new tire is different from the old tire in several ways, so I'm curious as to what about the tires is most responsible for the change in ride quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, my old tire was a 28mm Specialized Armadillo, and the new tire is a 25mm Michelin Pro4 Endurance. For both tires, I pump to about 100 or 105 psi and refill when they drop to about 85 psi (I'm only 150 pounds). A few differences that might plausibly affect the ride quality are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sidewall thickness/stiffness (the Armadillo is a puncture-resistant tire)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smaller tire size (25mm vs. 28mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these differences is most likely to be responsible for the less &quot;bouncy&quot; ride, or is it something else entirely? Is it normal to feel a noticeable difference in ride quality between two road tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T05:04:37.120" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:33:41.717" Title="What makes one road tire have a less &quot;bouncy&quot; ride than another?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10894" CreationDate="2012-08-21T20:29:35.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;60 vs. 110 TPI casing maybe? See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vittoria.com/tech/what_makes_a_good_tyre/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vittoria.com/tech/what_makes_a_good_tyre/&lt;/a&gt; for an explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4621" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T20:29:35.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10516" CreationDate="2012-08-21T20:32:20.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;New Shimano 105 and up are all 10 speed.  One option is the JTEK shiftmate, a little adaptor that will convert one amount of cable pull/retraction to a different amount.  It mounts just before the rear derailleur and usually improves shifting performance because it eliminates some of bend in the cable housing just before the rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are models that will convert new Shimano 10 speed to 9 or 8 speed.  I use one that converts Campy 10 shifters to Shimano 9 rear derailleur.  It works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4835" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T20:32:20.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-21T20:48:10.150" Score="3" ViewCount="1425" Body="&lt;p&gt;The story is - Parked and locked the bicycle at a seemingly secure parking-rack provided by a supermarket. I soon discovered that someone had locked my bicycle (and their own) to the rack. Returning a number of hours later (in the hope that the person had removed their bicycle and lock) I discovered that the whole rack had been removed and my bicycle taken. The thief simply unscrewed the bolts securing the rack to the ground and made off with the bicycle. The supermarket provided the parking-rack. There is CCTV from another source of the thief in action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is arguable that providing the parking-rack the supermarket (in this case the party contracted by the supermarket to install the parking racks) has a duty of care to potential users to insure that the parking-rack is fit-for-purpose and not easily removable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does installing arguably easy-to-remove parking-racks breach this duty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they had installed secure parking-racks I would still have my bicycle - are they liable for my loss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4836" LastEditorUserId="4836" LastEditDate="2012-08-22T22:47:22.173" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T00:20:04.797" Title=" Whole Bicycle Rack Easily Removed! Is the provider liable?" Tags="&lt;theft&gt;&lt;parking&gt;&lt;parking-racks&gt;&lt;liability&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10879" CreationDate="2012-08-21T21:21:54.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is more to consider than just whether you're slowing down the lead rider. I find someone drafting on me annoying, because it forces me to consider them and their actions. Particularly when I'm on my commute home I find it selfish that they're imposing that on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example when I approach a slower bike to overtake, I do a head check to make sure the coast is clear behind me. However, then I see the drafting bike and have to assess whether they're attempting to overtake me or just sitting on my wheel. If I knew them and trusted them I'd probably be safe in assuming they're going to stay on the wheel, but for a random person I can't trust that they won't be trying to overtake me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also had someone ride into the back of me because I've had to slow down due to foot traffic on the bike track. When it's safe I use hand signals and call out changes, but it's not a responsibility I want or have asked for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other examples, including turning corners and none of them are that serious, but put together they add up to a bunch of small inconveniences that aren't welcome. In summary, on a commute I don't think it's okay to draft at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all changes on a weekend blast, as I suspect more riders are willing to get in a line on a looooong stretch into a headwind :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T21:21:54.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10897" CreationDate="2012-08-21T21:37:26.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are anyway not liable, and these are the reasons that I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They never said that is was a secured rack. If you had secured your bike to a small tree, and the tree was cut and your bike taken, you wouldn't sue the government for not making stronger trees and not putting a sign to warn you: 'This is an insecure tree. Be warned'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you parked your bike, you didn't even know for sure it was &lt;em&gt;their&lt;/em&gt; rack. I assume that it was on public accessible ground, so anybody could have put a bike rack there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apparently when you parked your bike, you found the rack to be secure enough, or you wouldn't have parked your bike there. Now that your bike is missing, &lt;strong&gt;suddenly&lt;/strong&gt; the rack isn't secure enough anymore. If your bike and the rack would have been still there when you returned, would you also have said that the rack wasn't secure enough? No, of course not! Double standards, huh?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I admit that I was a bit too aggressive earlier, and that I shouldn't have written the 'typical American' comment.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I did some additional research too, but it was hard to find anything (semi)official. But although the things that I found, some of which are below, were by no means official, or maybe even trustworthy, they all said the same thing: Bad luck for you, but the shop is not liable.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.freeadvice.com/civil-litigation-46/car-theft-mall-parking-lot-66109.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Free Advice forum: Car Theft from Mall Parking Lot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/small-claims/car-stolen-parking-lot-27374.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ask Me Help Desk: Car stolen from parking lot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldlawdirect.com/forum/insurance-issues/5316-employer-liability-motorcycles-stolen-parking-lot-their-employer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World Law Direct: Employer Liability? (motorcycles stolen from the parking lot of their employer)&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091215153513AAkGAqJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yahoo! Answers: Is my employer liable for theft?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4807" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T03:35:12.477" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T03:35:12.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10875" CreationDate="2012-08-21T22:53:03.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practically there are only a few things that you need to match a rear derailleur to the one it's replacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is the mounting point - check the mounting to the frame is the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is the length of the cage - a short cage is typically used for road bikes and medium or long cage for mountain. The longer the cage, the bigger range of gears it can cope with, but the less precise the shifting is. As a rule try to stick to the same length cage, but if not, go longer rather than shorter (Unless you know what you are doing). try to stay with one for the number of gears as the chain, but it is not critical if its one either side. (i.e. an 8-speed on a 7-speed chain should be fine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if they're all pretty much compatible - you are probably wondering why such a large range - it's all down to weight, quality of shifting, expected life and price and just plain old marketing... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice - head down to the LBS (local bike shop) with your bike (or just the derailleur), and have a chat with them. They will have something off the shelf that will work, and you can discuss cost/quality etc. The LBS should be able to fit a new one in 1/2 hour if you want them to do it. I have had great success purchasing stuff or bikes online, however have also had the odd incompatibility due to not being aware of some seemingly minor detail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the end of the old cable is frayed/cut and not soldered, buy a new one.  it's just not worth the effort mucking around with the original cable, and they are only a few dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="31582" LastEditDate="2017-02-19T11:37:58.917" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T11:37:58.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10904" CreationDate="2012-08-21T23:00:57.537" Score="4" ViewCount="18778" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does FSR stand for in mountain bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ref: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bergwerk.ch/archives/3726/specialized-enduro-comp-2013/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bergwerk.ch/archives/3726/specialized-enduro-comp-2013/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-22T05:39:11.873" LastActivityDate="2020-04-13T15:16:10.010" Title="What does FSR stand for in mountain bikes?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2012-08-21T23:05:22.807" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reason I do not ride a recumbent (based on my uneducated knowledge of them, which is probably ignorant and wrong, but typical.... ): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't imagine they are very good off road (single track MTBing) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too low to be seen in traffic (Squash factor high)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not agile enough when the traffic does not see you (Increases squash factor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dorky -  (more increases in squash factor, although not as much as lycra)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have a beard, long hair, wear tie-died shirts and smoke dope. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They look clumsy to get in and out of (Dork factor).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They appear to take up a lot more storage space than a regular bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never seen a new shiny one in a glossy brochure, let alone on the floor at the LBS, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I learned to ride a bike when I was a kid, now I'm all grown up, I don't want the embarrassment of not being able to, and they look like they may be hard to get used to. ...... &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T23:05:22.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10901" CreationDate="2012-08-21T23:22:45.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the Specialized  web site Future-Shock-Rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T23:22:45.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10901" CreationDate="2012-08-21T23:24:00.467" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;FSR is the name of a suspension design from Specialized. According to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://specialized.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/456/~/definition-of-fsr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, it originally stood for &quot;Future Shock Rear&quot;. The Specialized website contains an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.specialized.com/us/en/stories/fsr-suspension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FSR Suspension&lt;/a&gt; page with marketing information about the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2019-03-16T19:54:58.950" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T19:54:58.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-22T04:14:33.700" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this all the time, basically use the presta nut on the inner side to avoid the tube getting &quot;pinched&quot; in the extra space, then if you can find another presta nut, screw that one to the outside where it's supposed to be. Works like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4838" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T04:14:33.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10897" CreationDate="2012-08-22T05:33:37.343" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;They provide the rack for you to park your bike not necessarily lock it, that part is up to you. I have never heard anyone make a claim that ANY rack is safe, the courts will find that it is your responsibility to check the effectiveness of the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If shopping centers were responsible for the security of your bike, you would soon find that bike racks would no longer exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T05:33:37.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10909" CreationDate="2012-08-22T06:24:21.257" Score="5" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about a month into using my bicycle to commute to work, and one thing I've definitely gotten better at is pacing myself to conserve energy, both for the rest of the commute to work, and for the commute back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm still unsure of, however, is whether or not I should pace myself on one day to conserve energy for the next. Assuming I ate the same thing, and got the same amount of sleep each day, would I have relatively the same amount of energy each of those days despite a decent back and forth commute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today was the first day of my commuting week, and I had a lot more energy (granted, I have been drinking chocolate milk per the advice of bicycles.SE, which may be having a physical or psychological affect AND that my body should be adjusting to the increased activity), so I ended up biking a bit faster than I normally do. Am I going to pay for this tomorrow? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: the commute is 15 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4186" LastEditorUserId="4186" LastEditDate="2012-08-29T03:57:29.613" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T05:47:16.723" Title="Is conserving energy something to do on a day-to-day basis, or over the week?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9610" CreationDate="2012-08-22T08:49:54.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule a Short cage derailers should only be used with a single front ring, medium cage with double front rings and a long cage for tripple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naterally this can be effected by the amount of travel your bike has at the back.  If it is a full suss then as the rear wheel moves through it's travel the chain line will get longer, placeing more tension on the rear derailer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4484" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T08:49:54.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10907" CreationDate="2012-08-22T09:59:07.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All other things being equal and provided the commute is no more than an hour you should be able to recover in full for the next day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reckon that with decent food and rest you will always recover in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said if the week is long and tiring and you don't get enough rest you may be slower on the Friday than on the Monday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4839" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T09:59:07.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10907" CreationDate="2012-08-22T11:05:16.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute about 2x50 minutes per day and definitely get slower toward the end of the week - not much, but anyway. It's easy to notice by just skipping one day: the day after that will be around 1 km/h faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly sure it happens to everybody. Adjusting to the routine will make the difference smaller, but it is there. That's why even (or particularly?) the best athletes will rest for a few days before a competition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="542" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T11:05:16.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10907" CreationDate="2012-08-22T11:07:08.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll be fine on a day-to-day basis I reckon. A lot of it depends on how fit you are to begin with, of course, and bear in mind that a month isn't a particularly long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the train into work and have commutes either side of the train journey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the work end, it is only 1-2 miles so I can do this no problem. I do remember when I first started (5 or so years ago) I would have good days and bad days, but now pretty much every day is the same. In addition I started out with an old mtb (and used the gears), whereas now I ride a single speed. And of course these are great indicators of how much fitter you're becoming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The home end is longer, about 10 miles each way. I only started cycling at this end last summer, when I could do a couple of days on the bounce, then felt I needed to rest the third day. In addition I would make sure I had food and drink, just in case. This summer however (so far I've only done it in the summer due to it being on fast country roads and wanting the light) I'm fitter and cycling 5 days a week is no problem. I do feel less inclined to go out at weekends, however, but doing 100+ miles each week in any case I'm not going to beat myself up... And I don't bother with either food or drink either, over this kind of distance (takes about a half hour) I don't find it necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, listen to your body, remember the good its doing you but take it easy when you feel you need to. You'll get better over time in any case. You're bound to feel fresher after a few days off, but by the same token you won't have zero energy by the time Friday comes around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T11:07:08.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10897" CreationDate="2012-08-22T11:16:01.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also on the insurance side, my policy requires me to fasten my bike to an immovable object. (This clause caused me to sink a couple of anchors into the concrete floor of my own garage.) So obviously if somebody has been able to walk away with the rack...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid to say that not only will the store not be liable, but you may have no luck if you try to claim on insurance either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be interested to hear how you get on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T11:16:01.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10907" CreationDate="2012-08-22T11:33:27.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A theoretical risk here is overtraining but with the exception of a long commute approaching 50k or more each day that you try to race at competitive timetrial speeds I wouldn't worry if I were you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially the first few weeks you will feel tired from time to time as your body adjusts to the extra work, and at the same time your fitness, and hence your speed will greatly improve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your energy consumption will also increase of course, so unless you plan to loose a lot of weight you should expect to eat a bit more. What will help you is to eat some good recovery food right after your commute. Bananas, nuts, raisins, dried fruit in general. These foods provide the same energy you get from chocolate milk, but contain less unhealthy refined sugars and saturated fats, and extra vitamins and minerals your body needs to recover from the exertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is very easy to experiment with your body without harm. Try your hardest on a few days and see how you feel, then take it easy for a few days, and if you feel energized and fully recovered you didn't push yourself too far but probably managed to improve your fitness level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only when you find that even after two or three days of rest you still feel tired have heavy legs and maybe even trouble sleeping should you start to worry about overtraining. Otherwise, just conserve energy to the level that you can still comfortably do what you want to do the rest of the day/week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T11:33:27.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10843" CreationDate="2012-08-22T14:36:32.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;But most riders would probably think 110 pounds as excessive unless they are very heavy.  The ride will be more comfortable and maybe more efficient five or ten pounds lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T14:36:32.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10917" CreationDate="2012-08-22T15:01:19.633" Score="4" ViewCount="2745" Body="&lt;p&gt;My chain has a tendency to frequently jump off the front chainring. I have a 1x9 so it's not a front derailleur issue. It generally happens when I hit something like the lip of a driveway or sidewalk at a crosswalk, which sucks when it pops off in the middle of crossing a busy highway in town. Could my chain be a bit too loose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4841" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T15:37:24.733" Title="Why does my chain keep jumping off the front chainring on my 1x9?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10916" CreationDate="2012-08-22T15:37:24.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your front chainring on the outside or inside of the spider? Is it a converted 1x9 or did you purchase it as a 1x9?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's most likely happening when you hit large bumps or holes in the road. It's possible that your chain is too long if you converted it from a 2x9 and didn't reduce the number of links in the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you converted it, it's also possible that the chainring is just too far away from your center line for a proper chainline when you're on your largest cog. If possible, move your chainring to the inner side of the spider. If you have a single ring crank, you may need to get a shorter BB/spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another cheaper and easier solution is to get a chain watcher. There are several types and brands such as N-stop, K-edge, Paul Components. This will sit on the inside and/or over the top of your chain on the front chainring which will help prevent the chain from jumping off the front ring. They are used widely in the cyclocross world to prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T15:37:24.733" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10922" CreationDate="2012-08-22T16:12:09.763" Score="68" ViewCount="76251" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Braking and Turning Your Bicycle&lt;/a&gt; page states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Skilled cyclists use the front brake alone probably 95% of the time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Generally I advise against using both brakes at the same time.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I certainly use my front brake more than my rear brake, but not exclusively. Specifically, I pull two or three times harder on the front brake than on the rear, and as I come to a stop and feel less traction on the rear wheel, I gradually let up on the rear brake. Sheldon's advice implies that it would be better to use the front brake exclusively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The page states cases for the exceptions where a cyclist should use both brakes together or the rear brake alone but doesn't provide a rationale for why not to use the two brakes together. In normal conditions, is using the front brake alone truly better than using both brakes, and if so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Related question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6616/when-should-i-not-use-my-front-brake&quot;&gt;When should I not use my front brake?&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2017-05-07T09:09:38.500" Title="Do skilled cyclists really &quot;use the front brake alone probably 95% of the time&quot;?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;handling&gt;" AnswerCount="19" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2012-08-22T16:42:16.067" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd qualify myself as a &quot;skilled&quot; cyclist. I would not say that I only use the front brake 95% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When riding in a peleton it would be very dangerous to make any kind of sudden stop as you cause alarm and possible collision with people behind you. If i do need to slow in a group, I use only my back brake. It allows a far more gradual slowing and better &quot;feathering&quot; of your braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use my front brake if I know I'm going to be fully stopping, such as at a stop light or intersection. I also use it in emergency situations - if there's a crash in front of me at a race or something darts out in front of me like a squirrel or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a race, I rarely use my front brake. I almost exclusively use my back brake aside from a crash avoidance situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a casual solo ride, I can usually plan ahead enough that I don't need to use my front brake, but I'd use it if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastEditorUserId="3931" LastEditDate="2012-08-22T16:55:58.227" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T16:55:58.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2012-08-22T17:47:21.520" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer is no. I do mountain trail riding and depending on the terrain I would say that the results may vary. How ever I would say that with my style of riding, I do use my front brakes 95% or more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason why I use front brakes that much is because of the control you maintain. Depending on where your center of mass &quot;hovers&quot; over your bike, you may need a different strategy. But I find that using the back brakes cause more slipping than the front. This is because my center of mass is typically more towards the front of my bike (I have low handle bars and I stand most of the time while I ride).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have to say this answer is not the only correct answer. The question is very general (which is perfectly fine), but the results cannot be averaged out to obtain the desired results. Each style of riding has a different style as well and each riding will ride differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to average every skilled cyclist then I would have to say no. But there are those like me who can go weeks without even touching their back brakes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4842" LastEditorUserId="28726" LastEditDate="2017-01-18T04:33:23.950" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T04:33:23.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2012-08-22T18:15:59.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally pull on my brakes equally while on the road and bias toward the back if I am stopping hard while offroad. I'd rather lock up the back wheel around a turn than the front wheel. The front wheel only had so much friction to spend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rarely need to panic stop when it really makes any difference. Under most conditions the front and rear brakes are capable of generating the same braking force. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: after many more years of riding I don't stand by this opinion anymore. using both brakes is a good move in the snow or wet and you gain an intuition of when you are using too much of either but maximal braking force can be achieved with the front brake alone in dry conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4574" LastEditorUserId="4574" LastEditDate="2017-01-20T21:04:27.387" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T21:04:27.387" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2012-08-22T19:55:50.267" Score="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reference - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclecraft.co.uk/&quot;&gt;Cyclecraft&lt;/a&gt; by John Franklin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A cycle takes more than twice as far to stop using only the rear brake compared to using only the front brake, which will usually stop the machine just as quickly as using both brakes. Nevertheless, you should always apply the rear brake, and slightly in advance of the front brake, so that a slight skid at the rear will warn you if you get close to the hazard point at which the bike may tip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T19:55:50.267" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10897" CreationDate="2012-08-22T20:30:31.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &quot;&lt;strong&gt;No, it's likely that the store has no liability for the theft of your bike.&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a lawyer, so this longer answer is to the best of my layman's understanding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key legal issue in the US is one of Bailment. For a bailment to be created the property in question has to be delivered to the bailee (the store or it's representative) by you (the bailor), and the bailee must have both &lt;em&gt;possession&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;control&lt;/em&gt; of the property. Once a bailment has been created the bailee must take reasonable steps to care for the property that has been delivered but does not normally insure the bailor against all loss of or to the property while it is in the bailee's possession unless he expressly undertakes that obligation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that the bailee is not liable for any and all damages or loss of the property while the property is in his care; he is only liable if the bailee can be proved negligent in caring for the property. Negligence can be proved if you can show that a reasonable person in possession and control of your property would not have taken whatever action led to the loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you rode up to a rack, chained up your bike and went your way. There was no transfer of possession or control from you to the store. The store couldn't move your bike (at least not under normal situations) and no individual implied in any way that they would look after or protect it. Even if it was obvious to a reasonable individual that the rack was poorly installed or easily circumvented, the bailment was not created in the first place, so the store has no duty whatsoever to protect your bike from theft or loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An overwhelming majority of cases covering automobiles have found no liability to the parking provider in similar cases. For example, when a customer pays a fee, drives his car to an available space, locks the car and takes the key, most US courts have held that you have merely leased space and that  even with payment the control and possession of the vehicle necessary to constitute a bailment has not passed to the lot owner or operator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If however you valet park your car, giving someone your keys in exchange for a claim ticket and they then park your car, which is subsequently stolen, you would likely have a claim because the operator/owner had not just possession but also control of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had been at some kind of event that had valet bike parking, then the answer might be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://legal-dictionary.thefreedictionary.com/bailment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link about bailment&lt;/a&gt; with more information if you are part of the small segment of the population that has to know all the details (like me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T20:30:31.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-22T20:38:37.807" Score="1" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently painted an aluminum bike. I put the primer down, then the paint color, then a clear coat. I did all the sanding and everything that goes along with painting the bike. After letting it dry for appox a week after finishing the paint, I clamped it down on the bike stand. When I took the frame off the stand the clamp and dug into the paint. Anyone know why this is happening and how I can fix it so it doesn't continue to happen??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4843" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T20:47:50.000" Title="The paint on my bicycle is damaged" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10924" CreationDate="2012-08-22T20:47:50.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert but having repaired the paint on several cars, I would think that a week from the application of the last coat should be long enough for the paint to cure if it was applied correctly. That said I would assume one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are clamping the frame much to tightly. I had this problem when I first bought my stand. Buying a carbon bike cured me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The application of the paint was too hasty. Possibly the primer or one of the early coats of paint did not have time to cure and adhere as it should. This would allow subsequent layers to shift when pressure is applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T20:47:50.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10894" CreationDate="2012-08-22T21:45:04.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Main aspect is tire flexibility. This is given by tire design, rubber formula, casing tpi as someone else stated, and the amount of rubber used to construct the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more rubber the stiffer the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher the tpi the more flexible the tire. When a bump hits the tire, the casing is responsible for holding the rubber together and avoiding the tire to explode like a balloon. The casing spreads the load among the threads near the hit spot. Some of the load fades from one thread to the next until some thread is rather unaffected. With high tpi casing, there are a lot of threads available, but they are also thinner, so they can stretch a little bit more and with more independence from the adjacent threads. These threads effectively absorb the shock. With low tpi casing it works the opposite way: threads are fewer and thicker, they stretch less, so they are less capable of absorbing the shock and rather transmit it to the rest of the tire structure. (Something like comparing thick denim against soft cotton fabric for t-shirts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding rubber, there are many formulas, each maker claims theirs is the best, but there is always a compromise. Soft rubber has better traction but adds rolling resistance and has less durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per design, there are a lot of factors (casing tpi is rather a design decision), among others: ply count, thread type, etc. I have more experience with MTB (I only have one road bike and is the less ridden of my bikes), but the same aspects are comparable to some extent. In MTB the thread design affect how stiff the rider perceives the tire: if the spacing between blocks is as much as the width of these blocks or bigger, the blocks  have more &quot;range&quot; to flex, cushioning a little bit more. This effect is also increased as the block height increased. A tire with smaller inter-block space and/or shallow thread gives the blocks less flexing options so the tire feels stiffer and with less rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The anecdote for context: I do not have much experience with road, but something similar happened to me with a hard tail mountain bike. I had installed some generic 26x2.1 tires, which where made of a thick and hard rubber. They here heavy but had very good traction both on pavement and offroad. These where HARD tires, they don't even lose their shape when completely deflated, and can stand the weight of the bike w/o air pressure, i.e. you wouldn't notice the tire is punctured if you just see the bike parked around...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new tires were almost the same size visually, bot with lower and smaller thread. The rubber is way softer and the walls where a lot thinner. The tires are also very light, and foldable. (WTB Motoraptors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you stated, the bike feels a lot more comfortable, let's say it is more &quot;forgiving&quot; to your butt and spine regarding bumps and holes in the road. I felt the difference in my wrists also, the new tires gave me less vibration to the handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both tire sets where used at about 40 psi, neither set had front or rear specific tires. The bike is a hardtail with some 110 mm air fork that is rather stiff and I use the bike to commute in a very hilly city with very bad pavement and also use the bike in trail mtb. I have even ridden some Downhill trails with this bike. The saddle is narrow and with thin padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:33:41.717" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:33:41.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2012-08-22T21:53:12.743" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always used both.  Among other things, if you apply both brakes you're in much better shape should one of the brakes fail suddenly (eg, broken cable, unanticipated wet rim, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then, I've never pretended to be a racer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt; It should be noted that, unless you're riding like a maniac (or at least like a BMX rider), 95% (at least) of your braking will occur in situations where there will be no chance at all of a wheel lockup.  In such situations either brake is equally effective, and, if you use both, you spread the wear evenly between them.  This means you can go twice as far before having to worry about replacing a brake pad or a worn-through rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T20:23:48.127" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T20:23:48.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2012-08-23T01:30:08.360" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago when cars started to get ABS, the argument was that a skilled driver could stop quicker with it turned off, and there was proof of it. When Traction control came in a skilled driver could go faster with it turned off. When ESP became available, ditto. We all know that an unskilled driver benefits enormously from these aids, and it turns out not everyone is a skilled driver, and most are less skilled than they think...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the &quot;Only use your front brake&quot; fits into this same category. In theory, you should never need to use your back brake if you are any good at riding. In practice, I use mine all the time, so either I am not as skilled as I think (highly probable), or the theory is wrong (Highly improbable - who am I to contradict Sheldon). Reality is that it's been a very long time since I had an &quot;off&quot; because I could not stop (And I have had the need for emergency stops with Cars, Horses and a tree -OK, the tree was my fault :), so I will keep doing what is working for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &quot;style&quot; is to use the front for stopping power and the back tells me two things - how much traction I have, and how much more I can pull on the front before I go over the bars - both these things are kind of useful to know, particularly on a MTB with disks.......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T01:30:08.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2012-08-23T07:38:26.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The received wisdom has always been that, in an emergency stop, just pulling hard on the front brakes will massively increase the probability of a flip - especially if you're on a downward slope. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back brake is generally more for minor corrections, a bit of extra control on the speed, but implicitly not about outright stopping. In a peleton or paceline, where brake usage is generally frowned upon, if you do need to dab the brakes, then using the back ones will also send a message to the rider behind when they see it clinching - almost like a car's red brake light. Contrary to that, use of the front brakes is hidden to the rider behind - but they'll quickly notice that you've slowed down (and that is the way that reputations are forged). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, my commuting fixed doesn't even have a back brake, so I'm hovering around 100% usage of the front brake, that's if you don't count the drivetrain as a brake - and I know that almost all speed control is done without that front brake at all, the only time the brake is engaged is in the last few yards before junctions and lights when legs alone can't do the job quickly enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels to me that usage of 95% seems high - but that could just be my style, maybe a little more defensive born of so many commuting miles! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T07:38:26.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10931" CreationDate="2012-08-23T10:58:16.167" Score="5" ViewCount="4225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10883/why-do-we-rarely-see-recumbents-and-almost-never-see-velomobiles&quot;&gt;velomobiles and recumbent bikes&lt;/a&gt; and I was wondering if they were street legal in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you ride one on a cycle path or would you have to stick to roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2019-07-19T19:26:23.843" Title="Are Velomobiles street legal in the UK?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10930" CreationDate="2012-08-23T12:05:53.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;References: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikehub.co.uk/featured-articles/cycling-and-the-law/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bikehub - Cycling and the Law&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1994/1519/contents/made&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Traffic Signs Regulations and General Directions 1994&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/contents/made&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A velomobile or recumbent bike is covered by the same law as regular bicycles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;pedal cycle&quot; means a unicycle, bicycle, tricycle, or cycle having four or more wheels, not being in any case mechanically propelled unless it is an electrically assisted pedal cycle of such class as is to be treated as not being a motor vehicle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's legal to use to ride one on the road in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycle paths are a bit more complicated as some legislation refers to &quot;bicycles&quot; and some to &quot;pedal cycles&quot;, so it would depend on how many wheels you've got and what type of cycle path / cycle lane / cycle track you wanted to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use a velomobile or recumbent bike on the road between sunset and sunrise then you may have problems. To be legal you'd need 2 pedal reflectors on each pedal and these have to be clearly visible from the front and rear. The design of most velomobiles and recumbent bikes do not meet this requirement. This law is &lt;a href=&quot;http://ukcyclerules.com/2011/02/17/met-police-cycle-officer-in-suspected-criminal-offence/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rarely&lt;/a&gt; (if ever) enforced, I think your main worry on this point is if you were involved in an accident then the other party might try to use your lack of reflectors to show negligence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt; - If your velomobile or recumbent bike is electrically powered then there are additional regulations that must be complied with, but I think that's beyond the scope of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T13:50:12.133" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T13:50:12.133" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-23T14:40:22.253" Score="3" ViewCount="6782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed starting yesterday my front tire has been making a strange sound. It sounds like there is a small piece of tar stuck to the front tire and it makes a faint noise of sticking and unsticking from the pavement once per revolution. I inspected the tire by hand, and it is perfectly clean. There is nothing visibly wrong with it whatsoever. It's also not melted. The bike rides perfectly. The tire and tube are both very new. The sound happens whether pedaling or coasting. Sometimes on different road surfaces it disappears, but I'm not sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the sound only happens when moving at speed with weight on the tire, I can't reproduce it standing still. Unless my ears are broken, it's not coming from anywhere else on the bike. What could this possibly be? Paranoid delusion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1332" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T23:24:23.637" Title="Sounds like there is stickiness on my tire, but there isn't!" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10933" CreationDate="2012-08-23T15:50:30.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As JohnP mentioned, it sounds like your wheel may be rubbing against the brake. If you spin the wheel and look at the rim, do you notice one of the brakes getting closer and further from the rim as the wheel turns? If so, a few things to look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your wheel may not be seated evenly in the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your wheel may be slightly out of true.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your brakes may not be centered evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any or all of these could be contributing to the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T15:50:30.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10933" CreationDate="2012-08-23T16:58:30.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ken Hiatt mentioned a wet spot between tire and tube, and I'd like to add something that have already caused me the same symptoms: the anti-puncture band.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, there is an overlapping zone of anti-puncture where one tip lays over the other. Depending on how they sit against each other, this might cause this noise. In my experience, this is also a cause of puncture, because the edge of the band can &quot;cut&quot; a groove into the rubber and eventually puncture it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't discard, for the sake of completeness, something inside the rim if it is double-walled (sand, nipple, whatever), or perhaps something related to the loading/unloading of some spoke when the bike rolls with your weight over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T16:58:30.290" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5814" CreationDate="2012-08-23T17:47:15.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone commented about sorbothane gloves. I suspect this would be possibly ideal material for this purpose (vibration damping). Personally I'm looking for bicycle sorbothane gloves or handle bars and possibly also sorbothane saddle/seat. Of course a seat should be customized to rider weight, and the sorbothane should be contained as in my experience it can turn into sticky goo in temperatures found in hot climates. I also haven't tested how it works in winter weather - but if it's in isolated strips inside gloves that could well avoid any winter related issues with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4852" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T17:47:15.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10950" CreationDate="2012-08-23T17:57:03.467" Score="0" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;When commuting in the city, i encounter many transitions between road and sidewalk. It's easy to jump from the sidewalk down to the road (~20 cm vertical) if you have enough speed, but to get back onto the sidewalk, i always brake, losing energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried doing a bunny-hop or the like to jump from the road to the sidewalk (seems easiest when approaching perpendicularly to the curb), but i never got proficient enough to attempt that at high speed (had a crash, breaking an unimportant part of my bike, so decided to stop trying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible/worthwhile to learn the jumping technique and become good enough to do it all the time, without having to slow down, without the fear of a crash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastEditorUserId="1090" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T18:18:24.077" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T01:28:35.780" Title="Is it possible to perform tricks with 100% safety during commuting?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;tricks&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10938" CreationDate="2012-08-23T18:32:35.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it's not possible. Crash happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing is ever 100%, especially when talking about moving objects surrounded by elements that are not completely under your control. Is that a small pebble at exactly the wrong spot causing your bead to be pushed in just enough that you get a blowout when you are expecting instead a nice grippy tire landing? Ouch, it was a one in a million but now the pedestrians you just buzzed on the sidewalk are watching your body slide across the road leaving bits of clothing and the top layer (or two) of flesh as a sacrifice to the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T21:53:50.123" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T21:53:50.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4694" CreationDate="2012-08-23T18:34:49.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A more modern solution is a shock absorbing seatpost such as&#xA;NitroPro Gas Suspension Seatpost (center of the saddle should be on center or forward of the seat post to avoid issues)&#xA;or Cane Creek Thudbuster (the long-travel version that would match the NitroPro performance takes few CM more vertical room so if you need the seat in low position this could make it too high)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I haven't tried either but I am contemplating ordering the first for my hardtail, no front suspension city e-bike, I love going fast but the roads here make it a pain without seat suspension and vibration absorbtion for both seat and hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4852" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T18:34:49.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-23T18:41:52.447" Score="8" ViewCount="1976" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do I need to be concerned with when cleaning my bike after a typical muddy and sandy cyclocross race? (Probably also applicable to mountain biking.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly, what can be done (in the field) between races to keep the bike clean and ready to ride again? Also, what am I missing due to the quick cleaning which I should take care of at home later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know we are supposed to avoid using a high pressure washer around the hubs / bottom bracket to avoid pushing out the grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grit in the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grit in the brake cables / shift cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grit in the brakes and on the rims (typically canti-brakes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mud caked in and around every part of the drivetrain / hubs / derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-lubing the drivetrain (and other parts) for another race&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of 'field kit' items I will need for this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other Related Questions on bike cleaning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/228/how-to-wash-a-bike-properly&quot;&gt;How to wash a bike properly?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1507/how-can-i-clean-sand-off-my-bike-chain&quot;&gt;How can I clean sand off my bike chain?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/692/what-to-use-to-clean-your-chain-and-cogs&quot;&gt;What to use to clean your chain (and cogs)?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2020-12-19T14:59:59.607" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T18:53:09.000" Title="How to clean a bike after muddy/sandy cyclocross race (or mountain bike ride)" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10942" CreationDate="2012-08-23T19:49:12.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should definitely be careful with it, but at many races we employ the use of a pressure washer to do broad stroke cleaning like getting mud, grass, etc off the bike and tires. You need to be careful and use it from a little distance and obviously not get up close on the BB, hubs, etc. but it does a good job of initially cleaning or cleaning between races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the race you should do more appropriate maintenance on the bike with degreaser and proper lubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T19:49:12.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10863" CreationDate="2012-08-23T20:16:18.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can now say that at least as far as Avenir and Zefal are concerned they do not interchange. I did find that Avenir sells a kit to convert any wedge bag to quick release. It involves making a small hole in the bag,inserting a small plate inside and screwing it to the clip on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T11:42:53.870" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T11:42:53.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10938" CreationDate="2012-08-23T20:46:15.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a lawyer, I'm certainly not your lawyer and I don't know the laws in your city.  That said, my advice is that you shouldn't try to hop on the curb/sidewalk at high speed.  In my city there is an ordinance against riding recklessly on sidewalks.  Whether or not &quot;doing tricks&quot; while commuting is actually reckless, I believe that a police officer could plausibly cite you if your city has a similar ordinance.  If that happened, you would, at the minimum, waste a day of your time in court (and possibly pay a fine if you can't convince the judge that you were riding responsibly). So, from a purely legal perspective, it seems like a bad risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curb hopping also seems like a bad idea from a safety standpoint. There's always a chance you could miss and crash, hurting yourself and others.  Also, pedestrians aren't always visible from the road, so you risk running over someone when you ride fast onto the sidewalk. Additionally, most automobile drivers don't watch the sidewalk and are not expecting a bicycle to transition to the road at 15 to 20 mph, so you risk colliding with an auto.  One of the most common types of collisions is where a motorist makes a right-turn into a cyclist who is riding through a crosswalk or across a driveway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most state's vehicle codes allow bicycles to use the roadway in a similar manner as if you were driving a (slow) farm implement.  Doing so is probably the safest way to ride for you and those around you.  Remember to stop at red lights and obey the speed limit (probably not a problem unless you have a nice long, steep hill with good pavement).  If your jurisdiction allows cycles to &quot;take the lane,&quot; don't be afraid to use it when appropriate[1]: it's safer for everyone when drivers don't try to squeeze through a substandard lane without changing lanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] Where I live, for example, cyclists can take the lane when it is less than a certain width and where there is no designated bike lane.  There are certain stipulations, however, like pulling over to let cars pass when there is only one lane and more than a certain number are following.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T20:46:15.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10894" CreationDate="2012-08-23T20:47:00.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your particular case, it is most likely the tire pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, you are most likely over-inflated at 105 psi on a 28mm tire and closer to optimal pressure at the same psi on the 25mm tire (although it's possible that you're still over-inflating a bit since you're so light). An over-inflated tire will feel &quot;bumpier&quot; whereas a correctly inflated tire will sort of mold itself around the bumps in the road and feel less harsh. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, Sheldon explains it better than all others. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T20:47:00.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10951" CreationDate="2012-08-23T20:53:40.483" Score="14" ViewCount="5525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hovding.com&quot;&gt;these very expensive helmets&lt;/a&gt; (about 500€) are actually better than regular ones. I'm sceptical about the claim that they are three times safer: if they are so much safer, why do they not seem to be being used by professionals? I cannot find any serious studies supporting these claims, so am wondering whether they are in fact substantiated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4854" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T10:17:19.287" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T11:25:13.297" Title="Are Hövding helmets safer than regular helmets?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10947" CreationDate="2012-08-23T21:12:30.017" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle helmets are all certified to the same standard, so I would be sceptical of claims that one is safer than another.  With bicycle helmets, a higher price usually gets you helmet that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weighs less&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has better vents to keep your head cooler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is more stylish (i.e., &quot;looks pro&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the Hovding helmet specifically, it looks like the main selling point is that it sits around your neck while you are not actively colliding with something.  Some people seem to think that conventional helmets look dorky and all helmets seem to give you &quot;helmet hair&quot; to one degree or another.  So, I would say that this is again a case where you are paying to get a helmet that gives you more of categories 2 and 3 above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T21:12:30.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10938" CreationDate="2012-08-23T21:21:13.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &quot;tricks&quot; could be done with 100% safety, then they wouldn't be tricks would they? So, I'm going to answer your last question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible/worthwhile to learn the jumping technique and become&#xA;  good enough to do it all the time, without having to slow down,&#xA;  without the fear of a crash?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is very much possible and extremely worthwhile. Just use common sense and don't practice on a busy curb. Practice/repetition builds confidence, which will reduce your fear of a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T21:21:13.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10938" CreationDate="2012-08-23T21:27:09.210" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't bend over and tie your shoes with 100% safety -- you might throw your back out, you might lose your balance, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to &quot;tricks&quot;, one man's &quot;trick&quot; is another man's &quot;ho-umm&quot; -- it depends on your level of skill and physical conditioning.  Certainly, hopping a moderate height curb is within the realm of possible (I used to do it on occasion, before I became old and crotchety), but doing so at relatively high speed is non-trivial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &quot;tricks during commuting&quot; is concerning -- while you're welcome to be as daring (or foolish) as you want to be when you're safely by yourself and not a hazard to others, when any bicycle, pedestrian, or vehicle traffic is nearby (or potentially nearby but unseen) it's incumbent on you to behave in a manner that does not put others at risk (or serious inconvenience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T21:27:09.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10947" CreationDate="2012-08-23T21:37:24.590" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the inflatable &quot;airbag&quot; helmet.  It's main claim to fame is that it isn't really a helmet, but sits in a (dorky looking) collar around your neck until needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, I'm skeptical that the helmet could be tested to most bike helmet standards at all, since the test procedures would not be designed for such a helmet.  So it's pretty much impossible to say if it &quot;meets standards&quot;, much less is better than others. For helmet testing info smf.org/standards/b/b90astd (thanks to @Ken Hiatt)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the trigger mechanism can't rely (as a car airbag does) on waiting until impact to activate.  So it must trigger based on sudden movements of the head and upper body.  The reliability of this is questionable.  (Keep in mind that a substantial number of head injuries while cycling are due to simply falling off the bike -- the old &quot;forgot to unclip&quot; problem, eg.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, given the iffy nature of the trigger mechanism, false triggering would seem likely, and having the helmet suddenly inflate in a critical situation could be extremely disorienting and lead to an accident that would not otherwise happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="4854" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T14:10:26.983" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T14:10:26.983" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10938" CreationDate="2012-08-24T00:50:23.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it conceivable that you could practice this and be proficient enough that you would rarely crash, if ever, when bunnyhopping up a curb? Absolutely! I'm sure &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cj6ho1-G6tw&quot;&gt;Danny Mcaskill&lt;/a&gt; could do this all day long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/Cj6ho1-G6tw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, however, I have a hard time bunnyhopping a road bike, especially with the seat positioned 'properly.' With legs near full extension, I find it extremely difficult; by contrast I can easily bunnyhop my BMX or mountain bike 2 feet consistently without issue. If you want to do more stunt-oriented riding, perhaps take a look at your frame size/tire volume/seat height configuration, and consider a different bicycle if they can't be adjusted for this type of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of your question has to do with speed; and if you have the technique down, speed just makes it easier. The faster you are going, the less you'll have to get your timing perfect; you'll be above the curb for longer. (Just don't be late). If you are a bit early, you may dent your rear rim, but it probably won't make you crash. Once you have the technique, your confidence should grow with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, I do wheelies, stoppies, and sit on my motorcycle's tank in traffic and frequently pass 100MPH on public roads. If you're not willing to take the risk, then don't. If you are; practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T00:50:23.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10938" CreationDate="2012-08-24T03:55:00.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes - it is possible and worthwhile to be able to jump curbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reasons are: As a daily commuter we are often called upon (or forced) to do emergency maneuvers. If one has never planned for these things then crashing is your (forced) option. However if you are able to avoid the accident by having a skill you know you have - you may have just saved your own life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other reason is this - daily commuting means taking the same road day in, day out. You know every cm of that road to work or school. The commute may become a chore and with that comes carelessness. If you use those bike trips to potentially improve your biking skill - the daily commute is a daily challenge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4857" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T03:55:00.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10961" CreationDate="2012-08-24T10:03:28.310" Score="7" ViewCount="1498" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lance Armstrong has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/cycling/19365234&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;announced&lt;/a&gt; that he will no longer fight charges brought against him by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usantidoping.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;US anti-doping agency&lt;/a&gt;. The USADA says it will ban him for life and strip him of his 7 Tour de France titles. Armstrong says that the USADA does not have the authority to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;International Cycling Union&lt;/a&gt; (UCI) is in charge of professional cycling events, including the Tour de France. So what is the relationship between the UCI and the USADA (and other anti-doping agencies)? Who has the final say over banning and disqualifying cyclists?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T21:43:18.947" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T21:43:46.190" Title="Does the USADA have the authority to strip Lance Armstrong of his Tour de France titles?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;doping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10955" CreationDate="2012-08-24T11:18:55.310" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is no.  The USADA is over reaching (even is they do have a solid case). The USADA'S authority only extends to the U.S. Olympic, Paralympic, Pan-American and ParaPan American sport. The USADA can only recommend to the UCI that the Armstrong's titles be stripped, and he be banned from professional cycling.  It is doubtful that the UCI will accept the USADA ruling, given the UCI has already stated that the the USADA investigation is baseless and should be dropped.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, USA Cycling could strip Armstrong of his license, if it chooses to accept the USADA ruling. The Loss of his license, would prevent him from participating in sanctioned races.  In my personal opinion, USA Cycling will follow the UCI lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4860" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T11:18:55.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6934" CreationDate="2012-08-24T12:50:42.840" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In almost all situations, it is easiest to apply the British road standard (keep left: A), overtaking to the right of the slower user. However the following reasons change this in situations other than two cyclists passing in opposite directions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paths that are narrow, uneven, under bridges, or overgrown cause cyclists and other users to move to centre or vary their position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedestrians following the roadway rule of walking facing oncoming traffic (e.g. on their right)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedestrians following the 'pavement' total lack of rules. (though I always keep left there too...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclists following the old 'pass pedestrians on the water side' rule (intended to avoid handlebar snagging)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The assumption of other's knowledge of standard roadway rules is also affected by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased liklihood of use by young/ old / inexperienced/ non-road users.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decreased spacial awareness by leisure use joggers, cyclists etc. using music/headphones; Age- or high-volume related hearing deterioration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, it is easy and always best practice to slow down and signal (or call out 'passing on your left/right') to avoid collisions, crashes and dirty looks. This also works even on the rare cyclepaths with lane and direction markings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, just as cyclists come off worst in a road collision because everything else is bigger, everything else on a cyclepath (pedestrians, buggies, prams, fishermen, jakeys, cats) come off worse as they are smaller. Don't become the arse you're trying to avoid on the roadway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dave E.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4861" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T12:50:42.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-24T13:02:39.543" Score="2" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to calibrate my Park Tool TM-1 for my weird spokes. I want to build a box with some kind of weight measuring device where a spoke can be put under 1600N of tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rumours on other boards say that using a spring scale would yield wrong results, because the spring would move while measuring. I don't quite know if that is true or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I want a cheap solution, I don't want to spend 50 euros on a digital scale. Now I found a &quot;butcher's scale&quot; on ebay &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.de/itm/Hangewaage-Wildwaage-Metzgerwaage-Fischwaage-200Kg-1Kg-/310422350974?pt=Metzgereiausstattung&amp;amp;hash=item48469d2c7e#ht_4164wt_1058&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Can I use that for my purpose, or will it also yield wrong tensiometer reults? I don't really understand the rational behind a spring scale messing up the results. Can someone shed some light on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/showthread.php?t=526067&amp;amp;page=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a picture and the discussion from some other board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="3311" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T13:49:36.267" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T13:49:36.267" Title="Calibrate Tensiometer" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10958" CreationDate="2012-08-24T14:07:57.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what you're after here. Is your spoke type not available on Park's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/assets/doc/product/TM-1_Table_3-21-14.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TM-1 Tension Meter Conversion Table&lt;/a&gt;? You're after relative spoke tension when you're measuring your tension as it's going to be different at different points from the hub to the rim. 1600N is well within the range of measurement for the TM-1 on almost all spoke types&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T08:30:07.597" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T08:30:07.597" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10955" CreationDate="2012-08-24T14:19:35.037" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a bit muddy and will probably ultimately be decided by the lawyers, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the John Fahey, the president of WADA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I am confident and WADA is confident that the USADA acted within the WADA code, and that a court in Texas also decided not to interfere,&quot; Fahey said in a telephone interview. &lt;strong&gt;&quot;They now have the right to apply a penalty that will be recognized by all WADA code countries around the world.&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greenwichtime.com/sports/article/WADA-Armstrong-stance-raises-questions-on-charges-3811670.php&quot;&gt;http://www.greenwichtime.com/sports/article/WADA-Armstrong-stance-raises-questions-on-charges-3811670.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And according to the WADA Code, it is the responsibility of international organizations: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20.3.9 To vigorously pursue all potential anti-doping rule violations within its jurisdiction including investigation into whether  Athlete Support Personnel or other Persons may have been involved in each case of doping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20.3.12 To cooperate with relevant national organizations and agencies and other  Anti-Doping Organizations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wada-ama.org/Documents/World_Anti-Doping_Program/WADP-The-Code/WADA_Anti-Doping_CODE_2009_EN.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.wada-ama.org/Documents/World_Anti-Doping_Program/WADP-The-Code/WADA_Anti-Doping_CODE_2009_EN.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So according to WADA, the USADA does have the right to impose penalties and the UCI is bound by the WADA Code to comply with their findings. They can, of course, appeal to The Court of Arbitration for Sport. And they almost certainly will. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T14:19:35.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2012-08-24T17:29:44.590" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden several thousand miles a year for the past several decades, so I consider myself a skilled cyclist, or at least an experienced one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually (80-90% of the time) apply both brakes equally. In a downhill situation, or one where I might have to turn sharply while braking, I might use the back brake more than the front. Having had more than a few over-the-handlebar incidents back in the day, there is no situation in which I would ever even consider using only the front brake again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4863" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T17:29:44.590" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10955" CreationDate="2012-08-24T20:13:57.270" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course not, the USADA is a &lt;em&gt;United States Federal Agency&lt;/em&gt;. It does not have the authority to strip titles won in &lt;em&gt;France&lt;/em&gt; in a &lt;em&gt;French&lt;/em&gt; event.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4866" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T20:53:32.057" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T20:53:32.057" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2012-08-24T20:30:37.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading the other answers, there are a few questions to adress here, but I must say in advance I'm an inexperienced road driver (2 1/2 yr on a road bike, with about 2k-3k per annum). There is no correct answer, but it depends on the situation. Mayor factors affecting the situation are speed, steepness, wetness, curviness and your positioning on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On flat, straight and dry patches with your derrier on the saddle there is no harm also giving the back brake, next to the front brake, a tighter clinch. If the rear really starts skidding you won't loose control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your going downhill on a dry part with curves on a road bike, I can't really move my ass behind the saddle because I tend to drive wider curves, therefore I only use the back brake a little bit, so that it won't start skidding. If your back wheel starts skidding while going 60 downhill in a curve, you're lost...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When watching rookie mountainbikers going down hill, they tend to hang over the handlebars. If they then apply strong force on the front wheel they may really tend to topple over the front. On the road bike you are alot lower and therefore don't go over the front quite as quickly. I only once tested how much force it would take to lift the back wheel with a regular braking position: I was going about 35-40 and hit only the front break really hard on a roadbike in normal undergrip position. I could feel the rear wheel slowly lifting, but could reduce the breaking power long before I started to topple. The speed reduction was massiv.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the more interessing situation: I was road biking downhill on an up to 20% step road, with some wet patches. Without doing anything you excelerate up to 30-40 in an blink of an eye. Because I was hitting too high speeds on a wet and curvy patch I cliched the front brake harder, but noticed that it wasn't really slowing me down, therefore I panicly pulled the back break. It started skidding, and I nearly lost control, lost my concenration and had to let go of both breaks shortly and so on... Leason learned: On difficult and fast patches only use your back brake for minimal speed reduction, everything else endangered me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases I never noticed the front wheel loosing grip, which would certainly involve a crash. But I think this is only true for road bikes, strong disk brakes may well be able to block the front wheel so that it starts to skid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get back to your question: If you are skilled and don't panic and are able to dose the front brake quite strongly and the back brake really softly you will stop faster than only using the front brake. But most people are not able to &quot;feel&quot; the grip of both wheel and adjust both clinshing presures simulatiously, resulting in backwheel skidding or to weak breaking on the front wheel or some other really weird shit. Therefore I understand Sheldon's advice, even if I don't know his rational.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: Learn your skills on safe parts, but don't risk doing experiments on dangerous slops. Only pulling on brake while learning also helps you understand how much only the front or back brake can recude your speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: On normal boring straight flat were I have to slow down because of traffic or such I use both to reduce wear on the breaks and rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="4680" LastEditDate="2013-03-17T17:59:54.500" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T17:59:54.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12771" CreationDate="2012-08-24T20:33:32.010" Score="2" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am asking for version &lt;strong&gt;without&lt;/strong&gt; a cutout. The question is about the shell (not the padding) -- when you press with your hand in the middle of the saddle (from top to down, like you would sit on it) -- does the shell flex?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note, I am not asking about opinion/recommendation, just data about stiffness of this particular saddle.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T16:16:49.253" Title="Does Selle Italia Flite Genuine Gel have rigid shell?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10977" CreationDate="2012-08-24T21:57:25.557" Score="5" ViewCount="8088" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been in the news that endurance athletes such as cyclists sometimes increase their red blood cell count by blood doping. I don't understand how you can just pump more blood into yourself, there must be some bad side effects to doing this, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4723" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T21:42:53.997" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T22:51:13.127" Title="What are the side effects of blood doping?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;doping&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2012-08-24T22:58:47.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the World Anti-Doping Agency:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wada-ama.org/en/Resources/Q-and-A/Blood-Doping/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wada-ama.org/en/Resources/Q-and-A/Blood-Doping/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While proper use of EPO has an enormous therapeutic benefit in the treatment of anaemia related to kidney disease, its misuse can lead to serious health risks for athletes who use this substance simply to gain a competitive edge. It is well known that EPO, by thickening the blood, leads to an increased risk of several deadly diseases, such as heart disease, stroke, and cerebral or pulmonary embolism. The misuse of recombinant human EPO may also lead to autoimmune diseases with serious health consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3858" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T22:58:47.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2012-08-24T23:18:44.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blood doping isn't only pumping more blood into your body. Your body increases hemoglobin (red blood cells) when you are in great altitude. This is caused by lower air presure which doesn't allow the lungs to transport enough oxygen into the bloodstream. Therefore the body can increase the ratio of red blood cells in your blood to compensate for the lower oxygen intake. If you train hard in big height this compensation mechanism really kicks in, raising your hemoglobin  level. After doing the traing the high hemoglobin rate only lasts a few days(?)/weeks, therefore you can remove this blood from your body and freeze it for competition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the competition starts you reinject the froozen blood (maybe remove some current blood?). This gives you an higher oxygen binding rate and gives you more power on the bike. You don't need EPO or anything. EPO also increases hemoglobin but without the need of high altitude. I wouldn't really concider that blood doping, but the link from the previous answer differs. I think your question referens to &quot;doping with your own blood&quot;  (not a native speaker, don't know the technical term)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it harms you? People in high altitude maybe live shorter, but that might be caused by missing health care system, poverty and missing education in countries with high mountains. I think other factors such as increased radiation in heights might account for more deaths than some cardio-vascular stuff. Therefore saying more hemogobin equals higher mortality might be a long shot and empirically wrong. Are there any studies? (not that I know of, but might be worth a search). Injecting large amounts of blood may well be a hazzard if the blood starts to clot, or was contaminated during storage, but I guess that's a small risk. Taking other peoples blood may well mess you up, if some unexspected immune reaction kicks in. I don't think enough cyclists died from injecting their own blood to make some profound statement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="4680" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T23:37:45.817" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T23:37:45.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2012-08-25T01:32:41.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the blood is from other individuals then there are a number of hazards, from AIDS and hepatitis to malaria and Lyme disease.  Plus there's always a chance of a sort of allergic reaction to the blood due to mismatched antigens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the blood is &quot;autologous&quot; -- from your own body -- then the above risks are avoided (so long as someone doesn't mix up the blood).  But there are non-trivial risks of infection, blood clots, and iron overload.  On the &quot;donating&quot; side, since you're probably stressing your body in several ways, there are additional risks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T01:32:41.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2012-08-25T02:24:25.980" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, the intended effect is to increase the number of red blood cells in your system, which in turn gives you increased oxygen carrying capacity to the working muscles. This extra oxygen allows your muscles to work longer and harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early days of &quot;blood packing&quot;, circa the 70's and 80's, it was basically taking a couple of pints of blood out of the body, storing it and letting the body naturally replace it, then transfusing it back into the athlete before their events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Erythropoietin has actually been around since the early 1900's, and in the 60's, they found that it stimulated blood marrow to produce extra red blood cells. In the late 80's, a synthetic EPO agent was created, and this is what led to the EPO use as an athletic enhancing agent, other than its legitimate medical uses (Anemia, and other diseases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest effect from extra blood cells (Other than the risk factors of homologous blood {Blood from an outside donor}) is that the blood becomes thicker and more viscous. This can lead to blood clots, strokes, heart attacks and pulmonary embolism. This becomes more likely at rest/sleep, as the heart rate slows quite a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T02:24:25.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-25T12:35:19.250" Score="3" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new bike. It is a Scott bike with disc brakes. The bike went in for it's service and now it has problems braking. As soon as I pull the brake leavers the front brakes makes a loud squeaking noise. The front brake disc is a blueish color from trying to brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back brake works perfectly. I took it back to the people who serviced it, and they were unable to solve the problem. Do you know what the problem could bee and how to correct it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4868" LastEditorUserId="39416" LastEditDate="2019-05-22T19:13:55.277" LastActivityDate="2019-05-22T19:13:55.277" Title="Problems with brake discs" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10972" CreationDate="2012-08-25T13:18:56.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your brake pads are contaminated with detergent or petroleum (oil) products. If so, you need to replace them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common problem, which can be solved by washing the brake rotors with IPA, and replacing your brake pads.  It sometimes happens that a pad will get contaminated by chain lube or other common bike lubricants during the washing process of a bike service, and should be no big deal to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is something that any shop worth 2 cents should know, they are either incompetent, or dishonest with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T13:18:56.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2012-08-25T19:54:57.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the reason for this is precisely the &quot;safety&quot; danger in it -- when you use the front brake, most weight shifts to the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With more weight on the front wheel, the front wheel gains better traction (due to increased downforce on it, greater friction).  Thus the wheel can &quot;brake harder&quot; without slipping (more friction on the front wheel means it can provide a greater braking force before slipping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you conditions are right, you could flip over the handlebars this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is stop speed maximized this way versus the rear brake participating? I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4833" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T19:54:57.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11317" CreationDate="2012-08-25T20:40:36.760" Score="2" ViewCount="1578" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there some kind of ferrule(or similar) that can be used to fasten a hydraulic disc brake hose to the braze-ons of a frame that used to have v-brakes? The hose is to thin to stick to the braze-ons, so I need something that will keep it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T19:16:41.400" Title="Ferrule to mount hydraulic disc brake hose to frame" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2012-08-25T20:48:48.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.outsideonline.com/fitness/Drug-Test.html?page=all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent article from Outside Magazine written by a journalist who rode brevets and decided to explore performance enhancing drugs (EPO &amp;amp; HGH) and write about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The really sad thing about these drugs is that they appeal to really talented and dedicated athletes who've reached the pinnacle of their abilities and who have only a very limited amount of time before age or injury degrades their physical performance. I am sure that you'll be able to find plenty of references on the physical side effects of these substances (yes, they're dangerous and potentially fatal). But the psychological &quot;side-effect&quot; is significant as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People who take these drugs become acutely aware that they are not themselves and that their performance is not entirely their own. That, by itself, let-alone health consequences is a huge burden that must be carried in secret by athletes who've spend a decade or more developing their abilities using only their own talent and hard-work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T20:48:48.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10978" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-08-25T21:44:57.767" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T21:44:57.767" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T21:44:57.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10979" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-08-25T21:44:57.767" Score="0" Body="The use of performance-enhancing drugs, or other methods such as blood doping. Banned in pro cycling, and often also illegal." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T21:44:57.767" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T21:44:57.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10976" CreationDate="2012-08-25T23:40:45.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BikeParts.com/problemsolvers has an adapter that converts cable stops into hose clamps the part# &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeparts.com/search_results.asp?ID=BPC317673&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BPC317673&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T19:16:41.400" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T19:16:41.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10992" CreationDate="2012-08-26T01:55:30.720" Score="4" ViewCount="3617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced my chain and cassette on my commuter bike.  It was a first time operation for me, as I am a new to doing bike maintenance.  That part seems to have gone fine.  While I was at it, I decided to adjust my front deraileur since it was rubbing a bit in certain gears.  I seem to have messed everything up while I was playing with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guide I was reading said to adjust the lower limit and check that it doesn't rub for the whole range of gears on the rear cassette.  By the time I had concluded that there was no way that was going to happen and I would just have to avoid silly front/rear gear combinations, I'd messed up everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I do a single full up-shift click on the shifter, the deraileur moves far enough to take the chain from the smallest chainring to to the largest chainring, skipping over the middle one.  The little window on the shifter says &quot;2&quot;, and it won't go up to &quot;3&quot; since I've maxed out the high stop on the deraileur.  Downshifting drops it all the way back to the small chainring.  If I disconnect the cable from the deraileur with the only tension being me holding the other end of the cable, the shifter works like I'd expect.  It nicely clicks through 1-3 and back again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that I twiddled something that makes the shifter pull more cable with each click than it used to, but I can't figure out what that might have been.  Alternately, I've done something else completely knuckleheaded.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raleighusa.com/archive/2008-performance-hybrid/cadent-ft2-2008/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2008 Raleigh Cadent FT2&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/ST/EV-ST-R221_R225-2585_v1_m56577569830612392.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ST R225 shifters&lt;/a&gt;.  Except for a spoke and the afore-mentioned chain and cassette, everything is stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help a newbie figure this out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1801" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T05:46:40.793" Title="How can I adjust index shifter so it doesn't skip the second chainring?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10996" CreationDate="2012-08-26T04:19:12.523" Score="1" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately, I’ve been “enjoying” pretty much every weekend a 9km, 650m vertical ascent near my home on my touring bike (the average grade is about 7.5%). The grueling ride has turned out to be a lot of fun for me, in a strange way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered what I might aspire to. Thus my question: what are the steepest, highest, most miserable road ascents in the world? I.e., what might be a fun long-term goal to work towards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T10:20:57.990" Title="What are the steepest, highest, most miserable road ascents in the world?" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7133" CreationDate="2012-08-26T08:15:06.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I select a new bike setup i don't tend to look at the weight of the bike complete. If you want a faster bike for less money get a cheap 2nd hand frame and group set then swap out the &quot;heavy&quot; wheels that came with it and get some lightweight wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of reasons for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1st, the heavier the wheel specifically the rim and the stuff at the outside of the wheel the harder its is to accelerate. The same conversely true of stopping&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd, when spinning each wheel has a gyroscopic effect, this means that a heavy wheel is stable, but hard to change direction, which makes the wheel sluggish to respond and makes the bike feel &quot;heavy&quot;. Remember.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Centripetal force = Mass x (Velcocity^2/Radius)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3rd, If you choose your wheels your wheel, or have them built for you you can really focus on the right balance of strength and weight for the type of riding you do (road, city, touring etc etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect to pay at least as much for wheels as i have for a frame, second to the frame they ARE the most important two items on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4871" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T08:15:06.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10938" CreationDate="2012-08-26T10:21:25.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could get some knee, elbow pads, a back protector and of course gloves and a helmet should be mandatory, so you'll be less likely to injure yourself when you do fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a smaller curb and work your way up to 20cm. Remember to throw you body weight back whilst you pop your front wheel up, and then forwards whilst you lift your back wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T10:21:25.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2012-08-26T10:50:52.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only one bike - a cross bike - that I ride on the road and then race during cross season. I have two sets of wheels with tires for off road / road. I also changed my cross crank from a 36/46 to a 34/48 to help with hills, off road trails and also give me a higher end on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cross bike is fine for 95% of the time on the road. I have to take steep turns while descending a lot slower due to the brakes and geometry and the bike is a little heavier going up hill. But I can usually keep up with all but the most fit roadies and I'm not stressing every pothole or ding because the bike was made to take a beating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4874" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T10:50:52.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10991" CreationDate="2012-08-26T16:31:51.777" Score="3" ViewCount="995" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my bike in all weathers, and I'm concerned over the possibility of rust forming inside the frame and going undetected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't easily obtain &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/tools/cycling-tools/chain-lubricant/product/review-jp-weigle-frame-saver-10220&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FrameSaver&lt;/a&gt; or the like, so I'm thinking of dropping a packet or two of silica gel desiccant inside the seat tube of my steel-framed bike. I'm concerned that its effect won't last as long, or that it will be rendered ineffective should a small amount of water pool inside my frame after riding in the rain, soaking the gel packet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any experience with using silica gel packets to prevent corrosion? Does it do a comparable job to corrosion-preventing sprays?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T15:02:48.470" Title="Would silica gel inside my bike frame be effective in preventing corrosion?" Tags="&lt;rust&gt;&lt;corrosion&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-26T17:26:02.017" Score="5" ViewCount="17641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was replacing a chain and managed to cut the chain too short. Is it possible to make the chain longer using a simple chain breaker? If so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4876" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T17:25:45.507" Title="how do you make a chain longer with a simple chain breaker?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10982" CreationDate="2012-08-26T17:38:14.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got two for you.  And as you may glean from this post, i really enjoy a day long gruelling climb, cause there's always a summit (woooo hooooo!) and a long coast down the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;San Cristobal de Las Casas in Chiapas Mexico.  It's about a 1 day ride up the new 4 lane highway with a large 2m shoulder.  Coming down, you can take the old highway.  It's beautiful and there were only about a dozen cars for the whole 3 hour descent.  Lots o switchbacks, so 1/3 of the way down i stopped and adjusted my rear break to be constantly rubbing so i wouldn't get a hand cramp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crowsnest Pass:  The ride from Christina Lake British Columbia to Rossland via Highway 3 (Crow's Nest Pass) via the Paulson Bridge is a solid descent in the Kootenay mountains near the Rockies.  Christina Lake is the warmest freshwater lake in bc and Rossland is a ski town.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These aren't the most grueling out there, but a solid 1km climb over a day for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;kesten&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4877" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T17:38:14.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10988" CreationDate="2012-08-26T18:12:54.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it wouldn't work as long as the frame is not hermetically sealed to keep water from entering (I don't know why manufacturers don't do that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The silica gel can only absorb a tiny quantity of water, a drop or so per packet, then it becomes ineffective. It is only effective to absorb water vapor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can bake it in the oven to regenerate it. &#xA;If you want to play with it, there is a version with a water-sensitive dye (blue -&gt; pink, now illegal because of cobalt content) and orange to a bit less orange. If left open, it will change color quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4441" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T18:12:54.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10981" CreationDate="2012-08-26T18:41:15.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You went at it backwards.  First thing to do (after backing off the limit adjustments a bit) is to adjust the barrel adjuster so that you can hit middle gear, then adjust the upper and lower limits so that you hit the outer two without going too far.  Then you can &quot;tweak&quot; the barrel adjuster slightly so that you minimize chain rub at the rear without upsetting clean shifting to the middle gear at the front (then &quot;tweak&quot; the limits again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-08-26T18:51:12.070" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T18:51:12.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10988" CreationDate="2012-08-26T18:49:41.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What the other Dan said, plus if you drop the stuff into your seat tube it will end up in the bottom bracket housing and muck up your BB bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite unusual for frames to rust through anyway (I've only seen it on frames that have been left in the weather for years, if not decades), and if you're that concerned you can remove the BB and headset bearings and give the whole inside of the frame a good blast with WD-40 once or twice a year.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone who's really a fanatic could figure out how to coat the inside of the frame with auto undercoating, but that would add considerable weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T18:49:41.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10938" CreationDate="2012-08-26T19:10:26.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode BMX professionally (1998 x-games) but my specialty was &quot;Street&quot; as in jumping curbs, sliding rails, wall rides, something like you want to do. My favorite place to ride is in San Francisco. It has so much to ride and lots and lots of curb cuts dropping down into the streets. Not one day of riding ever goes by where I felt that I was 100% safe. I come from the school of thought that stronger parts were more valuable than lighter parts and still ride the strongest (heaviest) bike of anyone I know. Even with the strongest bike around parts fail, tires blow, bolts strip, cables snap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fear of crashing makes you not do stupid things, that is nature keeping you alive. &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/ODtE87&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mat Hoffman&lt;/a&gt; (arguably the most influential BMX rider EVER) has had more injuries than any other rider (you can get &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/SF7Ew0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The birth of Big Air&lt;/a&gt; a documentary about Mat by ESPN on Netflix). Crashing is a part of the sport, the price you pay for the games you play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the only thing you can do is work your way from smaller curbs to bigger ones and just get used to how your bike handles in the air and on impact. The next most important thing is learn how to crash. Learn how to roll out of a wreck without getting hurt, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkour&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;parkour&lt;/a&gt; can help. Here is a video of &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/8uz-bEaSt5Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;me wrecking a backflip and walking away no problem&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T19:10:26.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10989" CreationDate="2012-08-26T20:01:46.693" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, hope that you properly removed the links before so you can just snap the links back into place, that is easiest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/25taa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any breaker that is designed properly will push the pin just to the point where you can snap the links out leaving the pin still attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MOFDX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snap the removed links back onto the chain and place the chain back onto the breaker with the pin facing into the breaker like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOYX0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carefully push the pin back into the link making sure the breaker pin and the roller pin are aligned. Misalignment can cause damage to the chain and breaker. Only push the pin through until it is extended past the link as far as the pins in the rest of the chain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VVtOC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the link will be too tight to bend easily, this is fixed by placing the chain in the middle jig and pushing the pin slightly, just enough to free the link up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gNaH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test the link to be sure it bends easily. Now go back and remove the proper number of links, making sure the male/female links match up when the chain is looped with or without a master-link, your preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T20:01:46.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10982" CreationDate="2012-08-26T20:13:12.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road climbs are graded according to elevation change and overall length. The classifications start at &quot;category 5&quot; and go upto &quot;category 1&quot; and finally &quot;Hors Category&quot;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hors_cat%C3%A9gorie&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a list of &quot;Hors&quot; climbs&lt;/a&gt; from the Tour de France throughout its history. These are the hardest road climbs that are doable (at a non-embarrassing pace) by elite athletes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, cat 5 and 4 climbs can be found in places with non-mountainous geography. Cat 2 through Hors climbs are hard to find in anyplace but very mountainous areas. If you do a cat 3 climb on a group ride-- it will be remembered and talked about. Going up a category usually means that both the grade and the distance is harder. I believe that hors category climbs are sometimes classified as such because of the conditions of the road (eg gravel/dirt is much harder at 15% than asphalt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see informally categorized grades if you use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava app&lt;/a&gt; (it tells you the category of the climbs you did on recorded rides). If you're interested in challenging yourself this is an excellent way to measure and compare progress because top times are recorded for each categorized climb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/routes/399555&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's an example&lt;/a&gt; of a ride with very heavy climbing yet &quot;only&quot; cat 3/4 hills, it was the Rapha 2011 Gentlemen's race (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rapha.cc/2011-ne-gentlemens-race&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;). For non-elites, this would be a tremendous accomplishment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T10:20:57.990" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T10:20:57.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10982" CreationDate="2012-08-26T20:22:46.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://killingmontezoncolan.blogspot.ca/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Montezoncolan&lt;/a&gt; on the Giro Italia is probably the toughest in a competition. Climbs 1200m in 10km, average about 12% and &lt;em&gt;steep bits&lt;/em&gt; of 25%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="427" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T20:22:46.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10972" CreationDate="2012-08-26T22:11:01.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are heaps of posts on the Internet with this problem. As @zenbike suggested, contamination of the pads is the most common cause and replacement is the only real option. Other causes are heat damage to pads (Glazing), warped disks from mechanical or heat damage. In some cases, it's just something that happens for that bike - Juicy 3's are really prone to it it you believe the Internet and all you can do is buy ear plugs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do depends on your budget and skills and spare time. Heres a couple of suggestions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the discs, and replace the pads. If you cannot afford to replace the pads, &quot;burning&quot; them is one thing I have seen suggested, as had a light sanding (to remove glazing) - neither have ever worked for me. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set the disk caliper - if it's not sitting right this can cause squealing. Read the manual for the brakes, but essentially it involves Loosen mounting bolts, apply the brakes softly, and gently tighten the bolts 1/2 turn each at a time until tight, while rotating the wheel. The idea is to get the pad/disc interface perfectly aligned. You can check visually by applying the brakes while watching the gap between the pads and disc. The pads should be perfectly parallel to the disks at the time they make contact. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try a different pad - e.g. a softer pad, different material - I replaced my metallics with Organics and that seemed to help. Trying a different brand can't hurt. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given it appears that it was fine before going into the LBS and noisy after, the most likely thing is contamination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T22:11:01.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11000" CreationDate="2012-08-26T23:02:16.270" Score="7" ViewCount="3472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a generic floor pump from an online bike catalog company for years, and have filled many Schrader valve tires with it without any problems.   I have recently started to use Presta valve tires.   When I try and pump air into a Presta valve tire, the air doesn't seem to go into the tire.   It takes me several trys at reseating the pump to get it to work, and every time it does work, there is a distinctive &quot;pop&quot; sound.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How do I get it to work every time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1693" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T18:59:48.543" Title="Why does my floor pump only fill a presta valve tire after a pop sound?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10999" CreationDate="2012-08-26T23:37:33.517" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I find helps, is: tap the valve post a bit to let out a small blast of air (after loosening the captive nut all the way, of course). That helps unstick things and lowers the pressure inside a bit to make it easier to start pumping air in. Just takes a quick tap. If you don't do that, you may need to pump slightly past the pressure of the tire to actually start pumping air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Schrader valve is a spring-loaded valve that the pump head opens up by pushing down on a pin. That means that once the head is engaged, pressure is equalized between the pump hose and the inner tube of the tire. When you engage the head, some air comes out of the tube into the pump head and hose, and when you work the pump, you're immediately pumping air into the tube/tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Presta valve doesn't have a spring. The valve is kept closed with air pressure, and the captive nut helps ensure nothing bumps the valve open. The pump head generally does not press down to force the valve open, and instead the valve is opened by increasing the pressure in the hose past the pressure inside the tube/tire. You generally have to pump until the pressure in the pump/hose/head matches what's in the tube before any air actually flows into the tube/tire, and sometimes a bit past that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the &quot;pop&quot; you're hearing is when external (hose) pressure overcomes the Presta valve, it opens up, and pressure equalizes suddenly between the pump hose and the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T03:26:40.970" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T03:26:40.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10999" CreationDate="2012-08-27T00:13:03.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, first, of course, unscrew the little knob &lt;em&gt;all the way&lt;/em&gt;.  Then, before installing the pump chuck, press the knob in briefly to let out of burst of air and assure that the valve is not stuck closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when tightening the little knob tighten it only just barely finger tight -- don't try to get it super-tight.  If you overtighten the valve you distort the rubber seal in the valve and shorten its life (in addition to making it more likely to stick).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T11:40:42.280" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T11:40:42.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7133" CreationDate="2012-08-27T01:35:02.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;light&quot; bike these days is around 16 lbs. Getting down to that kind of light weight involves a lot of optimizations-- it is not just the frame, but also the wheels, cranks, handlebars and everything else. The end result is something that is very nice but quite expensive. You won't want to leave a bike like that alone on a public street even with a good lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To really take advantage of a bike that light you also have to be light. If you aren't at sub 10 percent body fat, it doesn't make much sense to shell out 1000+ dollars for a pair of wheels. In other words, it is much cheaper and more logical to just drop your own weight first to  a minimal level before thinking about a seriously light bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T01:35:02.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-27T03:41:21.133" Score="-2" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/154/where-can-i-find-local-bike-routes&quot;&gt;Where can I find local bike routes?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a student at Arcadia University in Glenside, PA looking for the easiest, bike friendly way to get to center city Philadelphia. Google maps is giving me pretty bad biking routes that include a lot of highway biking ( i.e, not possible) and I am looking for someone who might know of some safer roads to take! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4879" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T15:18:43.000" Title="New To Philly, looking for good biking routes!" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2012-08-29T00:54:07.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11006" CreationDate="2012-08-27T04:47:54.973" Score="7" ViewCount="664" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now, I've got a SRAM 11/26 cassette. I just moved to San Francisco, and some of the climbs out here (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://app.strava.com/rides/19732626#z3277|5951&quot;&gt;Mt. Tamalpais&lt;/a&gt;) are pretty brutal with over an hour of climbing. My cadence over some of the steeper sections towards the top tends to hover around 70, when I'd much rather be up at 80 or 90. I've been considering switching to an 11/28.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing stopping me from doing so is wondering if it would be better, training-wise, to grind it out for now until my power and endurance improve, bringing my ability up into the range where a 26t climbing gear is appropriate. I'm afraid if I switch to a 28t, I'll use it as a crutch. Should I stick it out with the 26t until I get stronger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T06:22:51.603" Title="Switching to Lower Gears for Climbing" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11004" CreationDate="2012-08-27T05:37:09.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cadence of 70 RPM while climbing is not unusually low, so switching to a lower gear may just encourage you to slow down instead of making you more efficient. But the only way to know for sure is to try it and measure the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't necessarily a right cadence. The article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/technique-pedal-like-a-pro-12772/&quot;&gt;Technique - Pedal like a pro&lt;/a&gt; reports that seven pro cyclists (a small sample, I know) dropped their cadence from 80-100 RPM on the flats to 60-80 RPM on a 5% grade. Although Lance Armstrong is famous for climbing at 100+ RPM, this does not seem to be common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally do better when I climb at around 70 RPM than I do at a higher cadence. The higher cadence just causes me to get out of breath faster. But this is different from person to person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, there's no harm in trying a different gear and seeing what works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T05:37:09.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11004" CreationDate="2012-08-27T06:22:51.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in the same situation as you when I bought my racer a year ago. I struggled a lot in the hills, and my cadence would drop below 80 pretty fast. I had the same thought as you, that a bigger gear would only slow me down. I rode it out, and have improved my climb-times alot the last year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still ride the lowest gear, but I can manage to keep a high cadence longer, usually 85+ the whole climb. It gets better with time. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4880" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T06:22:51.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11009" CreationDate="2012-08-27T12:54:09.020" Score="3" ViewCount="1619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that for indexed systems, mixing campy and shimano parts is a no-no. Does the same hold for friction drive trains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is that I've never worked on campy parts before and I'm thinking of picking of an old Italian frame with a mix of campy and ofmega components with no wheels and I need to know what kind of wheels I will need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T13:54:53.540" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T15:31:07.993" Title="Is there a Campagnolo / Shimano compatibility issue for friction shift systems?" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11008" CreationDate="2012-08-27T13:21:17.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campy, Shimano, and Suntour (and other) friction shift systems are compatible because where the chain lands is up to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some caveats that you'll have to resolve with trial and error. In particular some rear derailleurs have &quot;longer reach&quot; than others. You may not be able to shift to the largest cog on some freewheels if the derailleur is short (intended for racing). But that is not specific to friction systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get the best results from friction mode systems if you stick with down-tube levers. Of course, these are compatible across vendors and some indexed levers even have a selectable &quot;friction mode&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, it is posssible to mix campy and shimano &lt;em&gt;indexed&lt;/em&gt; shifter/cogs if you use an adaptor. I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://jtekengineering.com/shiftmate.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;j-tek&lt;/a&gt; and it works fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T13:21:17.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11003" CreationDate="2012-08-27T14:32:55.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never been to Philly, but can highly recommend the segment explorer on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;strava.com&lt;/a&gt;. You start by putting in the city and the zoom level of the map will show the most popular segments ridden. Zoom in you'll get a finer grain of segments in that smaller area, zoom out and pan around to the Glenside, PA area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you click on a segment you will see the leader board and see how many times it has been ridden, you will find some only ridden by one person, probably not a popular route, but others ridden many many times would be a great place to start looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the Strava segment explorer whenever I travel to find bike and running routes while on my trip, it has proven to be very helpful to me in finding new, safe places to bike and run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T16:14:23.913" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T16:14:23.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11057" CreationDate="2012-08-27T15:18:19.413" Score="11" ViewCount="5335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to figure out what I should use when cleaning my bicycle chain.  When I first purchased my bike, I knew I needed to lube my chain when i did regular maintenance.  I purchased some White Lightning Self Cleaning Bicycle lube, which suggested to me that I only needed to put that lube on the chain and everything would be fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased another brand of lube, and it didn't say anything about self cleaning.  I've read in several places that a degreaser is needed and a cloth and some soap to clean a chain properly, and then lubing takes place afterwards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I buy White Lighting self cleaning lube (or another Wax based lubricant), do I need to go through the regular chain cleaning steps(of de-greasing, soaping, greasing/lubing again)?  or can i just lube my chain and go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4883" LastEditorUserId="4883" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T12:42:57.167" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T12:42:57.167" Title="Is a self cleaning lube enough for chain maintenance?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11011" CreationDate="2012-08-27T15:28:08.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends -- on the lube you use, the type of riding you do, and how much of a maintenance nut you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;drier&quot; the lube you use, the cleaner the chain will stay (though &quot;dry&quot; lube does not protect as well against moisture).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you ride on roads, and rarely ride in the rain or slop, you need less chain maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some people have to have their chains spotless, others can tolerate a bit of grime.  Keeping the chain spotless probably adds 5-10% (over &quot;moderate&quot; maintenance) to chain and sprocket life (though you can overdo it and actually make things worse).  But that extra 5-10% life is not that significant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important thing to do, after lubing, is to use a rag to wipe the outside of the chain.  This removes a lot of grime and also removes excess lube that will attract more grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://img.alibaba.com/img/pb/057/123/371/371123057_237.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;chain washer system&lt;/a&gt; about once a season (and when I was commuting regularly I'd use it about once a month).  Others do more, less, or none at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(FWIT, I also generally use a Teflon or wax-based &quot;dry&quot; lube, though I used to switch to something heavier when I did winter riding.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T18:56:28.797" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T18:56:28.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11008" CreationDate="2012-08-27T15:31:07.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;SunTour's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh1no.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;silver shifters&lt;/a&gt; have the selectable &quot;friction mode&quot; that Angelo mentions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of direct relevance to the OP, that page also notes there are some compatibility issues&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;FLASH! SRAM's 9sp mountain rear derailers don't seem to work with this shifter. The movement of the derailer changes dramatically from the 8th to the 9th position. Why'd they do that? Anyway -- just don't use these with that derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but notes that friction shifters in general are highly compatible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They work with any derailer, and freewheel, cassette, chain, etc., so you have the peace of mind that comes from knowing you'll never be midway between gears and powerless to do anything about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had good experiences with these shifters.  I can swap rear wheels from bike to bike without worrying about the details of the rear cassette.  This lets me wake up in the morning and decide whether I want the wheel with the granny or one with a more closely spaced cogset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used these shifters in indexed mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T15:31:07.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11011" CreationDate="2012-08-27T15:45:30.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;White lightning in particular is a waxy lube, not an oil based lube.  The idea is that as dirt gets embedded in the lube, the wax flakes off instead of trapping the dirt particles and leaving them in a position to work themselves in between the plates of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most other lubes are oil based, so they don't have this property.  I don't have much personal experience with wax based lubes so I can't comment, but I have met cyclo-tourists who carried a block of paraffin wax which they melted and dipped their chains in every night as part of their regular maintenance.  This never seemed to be a maintenance savings to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I buy White Lighting self cleaning lube, do I need to go through the regular chain cleaning steps? or can I just lube my chain and go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since White lightning is not a grease, using a degreaser is probably not necessary except when you switch from an oil based lube to a wax one.  When you buy a new chain, it comes greased, but that grease should be clean of grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't keep reapplying white lightning as often as recommended or the chain looks visibly dirty, then you're running the chain effectively without any lube or grit protection, so you should clean fully before reapplying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T15:45:30.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11003" CreationDate="2012-08-27T16:00:53.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live the next state over and have never ridden in Philly but here are a few indirect pointers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drexel University and U Penn are in the middle of the city, so you might ask their student run clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drexelcycling.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.drexelcycling.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://penncycling.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://penncycling.wordpress.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bilenky.com/Home.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bilenkey&lt;/a&gt; is a framebuilder who has been in Philly for ages, and probably knows about the local clubs and routes.  His shop isn't very central.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phillybikeexpo.com/Seminars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Philly Bike Expo&lt;/a&gt; is in two months, and might be a good place to check out the cycling scene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T16:00:53.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-27T18:33:25.823" Score="9" ViewCount="19204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an OnGuard u-lock with only one key.  I contacted OnGuard about getting a backup, but it requires a serial number which was included with the original packaging.  The number is not on the lock or key itself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I'm wondering if some locksmiths can copy such keys.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this description is inadequate, but for what its worth, the shaft of the key is fairly rectangular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4886" LastActivityDate="2020-08-09T14:44:43.510" Title="Can I copy my u-lock key?" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11027" CreationDate="2012-08-27T18:59:11.470" Score="2" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to upgrade my suspension forks from Rock Shox Dart 3 to something like Rock Shox Sektor RL. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the forks have either a 15 or 20 mm axle, or 'Maxle'. What does this mean? Will this require me to buy a new wheel/hub to accommodate for this? I currently have what I believe to be a standard quick release skewer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1400" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T23:57:58.583" Title="Suspension Fork Axles" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10999" CreationDate="2012-08-27T18:59:48.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's just how it works with Presta valves. When you attach the pump head to the valve, it does not open the valve mechanically. The valve remains closed. In order to open the valve you have to start pumping the air. That external air pressure that you create with the pump (i.e. pressure in the pump hose) has to force the valve open. The moment it opens is when it makes that &quot;pop&quot; (or &quot;tick&quot;) sound. Once it opens, it stays open until you disconnect the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much pressure it will take to open the valve depends on how &quot;sticky&quot; your Presta valve is and on how much pressure you already have in your tire. To make it easier, you should tap the valve head a few times with your finger before attaching the pump and, preferably, drain some air to reduce the inner pressure in the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pump heads have a pin in them, which is there specifically to mechanically open the Presta valve when you attach the head (some Lezyne heads?). Such pump heads usually don't exhibit this &quot;sticky valve&quot; issue. However, such pump heads are relatively rare. A typical pump head for Presta relies on air pressure to open the valve, as I described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T18:59:48.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10863" CreationDate="2012-08-27T19:13:48.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not found a quick connect system that works with different manufacturers, but have found a bag that I can easily swap between bikes without needing to buy two bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a Topeak Aero Wedge Medium saddle bag and have found on their support website (&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.todson.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;store.todson.com&lt;/a&gt;) that you can buy extra &quot;fixers&quot; to put on each of your bicycles. The medium Aero Wedge saddle bag carries a couple tubes and my compact pump. It has the quick connect and a single velcro strap which goes around the seat post. Very secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not had any problems with the Wedge saddle bag when mountain biking (I don't go off many jumps but lots of cross country, single track and rough terrain). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about 4 years, I did have the thin plastic slot thingy (official term I think) on the bag become brittle and crack. I found the replacement on the store.todson.com website and did not need to purchase a new bag, as such I still recommend the Topeak Wedge bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T19:13:48.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11072" CreationDate="2012-08-27T20:48:28.287" Score="8" ViewCount="2092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a double chainring on my road bike but one of my chainring bolts has broken so I'm left with only 4 out of the 5 I'm supposed to have. Is it safe to ride? (just until replacements arrive)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T14:51:45.597" Title="Is it safe to ride with one missing chainring bolt?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11028" CreationDate="2012-08-27T21:55:25.540" Score="-2" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to build up a bike, and while I have certain characteristics in mind I'm not familiar enough with the frame market to know what to look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be my daily commuter/grocery runner. I live in San Francisco, so I want something that's appropriate for traffic and hills. As far as subjective feel, I want something that's nimble but not overly aggressive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the specifics, I'd like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;54 or 55cm frame size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road geometry, although probably on the relaxed side (see above)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack mounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horizontal dropouts (I'm considering an internal hub)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend some frames that would fit this description?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4887" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T02:21:32.507" Title="What frames fit these requirements?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-27T22:24:05.980" Score="16" ViewCount="12016" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized Roubaix with a 7r carbon frame; the Tarmac has 11r. Will I notice a speed change if I ride &quot;exactly&quot; under the same conditions? Does the additional 4r = more speed? I am thinking in upgrading but I dont want to make the investment without some good feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4888" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T23:14:45.570" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T17:43:50.207" Title="How does stiffness in carbon frames increase speed?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11023" CreationDate="2012-08-27T22:48:53.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stiffer a frame is, the more it resists flexing under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of demonstration, say you have a carbon frame that under a load of 400 watts of pedaling power has 2&quot; of flexion. The actual power going to the wheels is 400 - Cost to flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you take a frame that only flexes 1&quot;. Less of your power goes into flexing the frame, so more power gets translated to the wheels, which results in a faster bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stiffer a frame, the harsher the ride in general, so it may not be quite as comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are familiar with cars at all, it's the same concept behind horsepower at the crank, versus horsepower at the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T22:48:53.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11023" CreationDate="2012-08-27T22:49:55.170" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;General rule of thumb, a stiffer frame will absorb less of the input energy and transfer more energy - hence more power from you legs means more power to the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bikes have different designs, so the aerodynamics of the bikes and the rider on them will be different which will result in different speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stiff frame will transmit the road imperfections into the rider causing fatigue and causing the rider to expend more energy because the bike/rider is being lifted up by road imperfections where as the more flexible bike will absorb them meaning the bulk of the mass is moving forwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ideal bike is stiff where it needs to transmit peddling force, but has shock absorbent qualities to absorb bumps and road imperfections while being aerodynamic for both bike and rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3151" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T22:49:55.170" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-08-27T23:17:36.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I performed such experiment sometime. This is what i did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Changed my wheelset for one made of light narrow rims and the smallest 26&quot; tires I could get at the moment. Those where 1.9 or something similar and they where almost &quot;slicks&quot;. The tires were inflated to their maximum labeled presure, 65 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I kept the brake system, it was v-brake. Just adjusted the brake pads, shifting the spacers to the inner part of the bolt, making the pads protrude more into the rim, in order to keep the brake arms roughly paralel when applying the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I used a shortened handlebar and instaled a long stem angled down. Also I moved the saddle a bit towards the front.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point the bike had a very weird feeling. I think I was a little bit faster, but it felt awkward and dorky so I never really enjoyed the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Later I sourced a pair of mtb handlebar extensions from another bike, so I mounted them at a drop angle, rather than pointing up. These extensions had a curved end, pointing inside and a little backward so I swapped sides when installing them pointing down. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then I took it further and mounted the levers (both, shifting and braking) into those levers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted I had the wierdest bike in the neighborhood. How was it to ride on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a start, riding it was like opening a safe: you had to know the combination. No one of my friends knew what to do with the handlebars. I could ride fine enough to keep it going for a while, but no one of my friends has any interest in keeping my pace. I remember that sometimes we performed some kind of short time trial competition, in wich I used to win, but, taking it realistic, I was the only one who took cycling &quot;seriously&quot; at that time (I used to spend all my evenings ridig while all the others used to play soccer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a while I realized I was already more efficient on a regular mtb (partly because of my hilly city), and I got bored of this weird &quot;Frankenstein&quot; bike, so I reverted all the changes except the angled down stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: when I decided my experiment had gone far enough I had observed that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame whas too heavy, so it almost negated any benefit of the changes made (This could be just my case, it whas a steel frame).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The flat bars keept a too short riding position, real drop handlebars also allow your hands to sit further from the steering axis, stabilizing it. My short setup whas jerky and keept me from focusing properly on riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compared my riding times on this bike versus my times in a regular MTB, and the difference was negligible in most cases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding posture was unsafe, prone to slipping out of the handlebars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The only change that felt really positive, was the narrow - slick wheelset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never managed to get my hands on a bigger crankset, but I rarely ran out of gears in the high end anyway. Over the time I got an old but real road bike and finally learned that the posture and pedaling technique are simply way too different.&#xA;The experiment was fun, and I had a lot of riding experiences but the lasting one was about the angled down stem, which I still use in my mountain bikes because it gives me a more agresive position and is useful when riding uphill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to go for it, I recommend performing one change at a time, and fiddling enough with each one to  get acustomed to it before going further. This is because when you ride in a position you are nor used to, you may get weird sensation, get aching from several points and other stuff that will negate any benefit of the change for a while, however once you get the hang of it, and adjust your body and the fit of other parts of your bike you'll start to enjoy the fruit of your work. This strategy also allows you to look for cheap ways to source the parts you need by talking to friends and acquaintances (some of them may simply give you parts the don't use anymore as a gift or just because they need the space for something else) and waiting for bargains and inventory cleanups you get good parts at a fraction of their retail price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2012-08-31T17:12:06.617" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T17:12:06.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11018" CreationDate="2012-08-27T23:57:58.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - if you change to a 15mm or 20mm though axle, you will need a new hub to suit. Keep in mind that bike carries that you remove the front wheel and use the QR will be not be useable as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the benefits of the though axle out-weigh the disadvantages of incompatible parts etc. However I would think hard before &quot;upgrading&quot; away from QR and only do it if the benefits are quantifiable. e.g. if &quot;Mines bigger than yours&quot; or &quot;Mines 1/2 gram lighter than yours&quot;, &quot;It looks cool and people think I must be a good rider cause I have a 20mm thru  axle&quot; (looks can be deceptive) seems to be the main advantages for many people. Most people cite &quot;Improved Stiffness&quot;, as they compare their old 10yo QR shock with their new 20mm Thru axle and point to the Axle as the only thing that changed. Reliability is often another stated reason - read Sheldon's pages on properly fitted QR's.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get me wrong - if I was buying new, I would consider a Thru offering, but I would not upgrade to it - the cost of a new front hub on top of the the Sektor, you would get a &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; better setup putting the all the money into a better 9mm QR Shock (And reading Sheldon's pages on how to properly install a QR). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T23:57:58.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11022" CreationDate="2012-08-28T00:31:37.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Cross-Check&lt;/a&gt; would suit your needs. They also have a few other models that you might want to consider.  Although most others don't have horizontal dropouts.  You could always get a chain tensioner if you wanted to use and IGH with a bike with vertical dropouts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T00:31:37.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10988" CreationDate="2012-08-28T00:44:14.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not so easy for the water to get inside the frame, and fortunately in this case, the oposite is also true: it is easy to keep it out. You can use hot glue to cover a bunch of tiny holes meant to let fumes out during the welding of the frame. These holes are usually near the extremes of the seat stays or chainstays. Hot glue won't stick too hard and wont damage paint. Can be removed by just the fingernails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other tubes do not require these holes as they connect to some other. Top Tube for example has ventilation trough a hole in the seat tube (remove the seat post to check if it's there) and the headtube. The same for the downtube, it comunicates to the headtube and the bottom bracket shell. This limmits the water entrance posibilities to the bb bearing, the headset bearing and the seat tube collar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good bearings correctly installed should have seals that avoid water getting inside them, and also keep it from geting into the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lower end of the steer tube is most of the time open, you can seal it by using a cork or a similar rubber snap-in seal...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the headset bearings there are comercially vailable neoprene or rubber sleeves, but you can make do with ol inner tube of an apropriate size that fits tight (For the top bearing: just remove the stem, slide the rubber and replace stem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar thing can be done for the seatpost collar, the short cut usually towards the back of the bike collects water and debris thrown by the rear wheel. It can be protected with either commercially available neoprene sleeves or with old inner tube. If you can't find a tube that fits tight you can  lessen it's diameter by cutting it and gluing with vulcanizing compound (a.k.a. patch glue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some frames have unused screw holes for accesories like water bottle or the like. Cover these with correct boltls or hot glue. There are also plastic plugs for this purpose (if you can get hands on them), some of wich resemble bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T15:02:48.470" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T15:02:48.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11022" CreationDate="2012-08-28T02:21:32.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Cross Check&lt;/a&gt; - Geared Cross bike with bar end shifters and canti brakes&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://allcitycycles.com/bikes/space_horse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;All City Space Horse&lt;/a&gt; - Geared road / light touring bike with canti brakes and STI shifters.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/bikes/casseroll/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Salsa Casserole&lt;/a&gt; - Geared road / touring / city bike with STI Shifters&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raleighusa.com/archive/2012-steel-road/roper-12/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raleigh Roper&lt;/a&gt; - Geared Cross bike with Disc Brakes and STI shifters (no horizontal dropouts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally own an all city space horse and find it very versatile.  I have rode it off road (Hilly billy roubaix in West Virginia), for a short 4 day bike tour, for commuting, and hilly road rides around town. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the cross check (and have one of those too), but the default setup leaves something to be desired (I'd prefer STI shifters).  However, If you're willing to tweak it yourself, it's also a great multi-purpose bike. There is a reason I see these things everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know people who ride the other two bikes and can vouch for them as well.  Any of these would be a great choice and they are all around a similar price point. It's hard to go wrong with any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T02:21:32.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-28T02:38:44.837" Score="12" ViewCount="26395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-IN/bikes/model/revel.0.disc/10758/53071/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTB&lt;/a&gt; with hydraulic disk brakes, and am finding really hard to adjust to the braking system. From the very beginning I was cycling with the front lever on the right. But now it’s reversed, and it’s really confusing me a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked my mechanic about this and he says front brakes on the left is the European style of braking. So I should get used to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, why exactly are brakes reversed on such bikes? And to add up, my mechanic claims that the brakes cannot be switched. Is this true or, am I just being &lt;em&gt;punked&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2020-04-02T17:58:29.663" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T17:58:29.663" Title="Is there a reason for levers to be reversed on bikes with hydraulic brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-28T04:45:14.253" Score="6" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some reasons that business owners choose to prevent cyclists from using the drive-thru?  Are there legal issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3762" LastEditorUserId="3762" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T04:54:16.173" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T21:28:29.593" Title="Why are there a large number of businesses that do not allow bicycles in the drive through?" Tags="&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11031" CreationDate="2012-08-28T05:24:42.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The connection between the right/left brake levers and the front/back brakes are dictated based on which side of the road the bike is designed to be ridden on. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/4912/1588&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; has more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally bikes destined for driving on the left side of the road or the right side only vary based on which lever goes to which brake. So there should not be any reason you can't switch the hydraulic lines from each lever to the other levers. It will be a little more complicated since it will need bleeding after installation, but I'm not aware of any technical reason why it couldn't be switched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T05:24:42.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11031" CreationDate="2012-08-28T06:08:22.450" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My mechanic claims that the brakes cannot be switched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You route the cable/hose to the lever on one side of your bars instead of the other.  Maybe you have to swap mismatched levers from one side of the bars to the other.  Either way, it's a trivial change.  Get a new mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So should I get used to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I'm American, I wire all my bikes so that the right brake lever brakes the front so that I can signal left while having a hand free for the strong front brake.  I think it's more important to be able to easily signal while merging left into traffic to take a left than to easily signal right where I don't have to cross lanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride in traffic much, I'd suggest trying it for a while and seeing if you like it better once you've adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T12:29:15.883" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T12:29:15.883" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11033" CreationDate="2012-08-28T11:19:38.737" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably one of two camps:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) They just don't think it's proper to ride a bike through a drive through, it's for cars they say.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) They don't know if it's going to expose them liability if a cyclist is hurt or killed by a car pulling in to or out of the drive through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T11:19:38.737" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11043" CreationDate="2012-08-28T11:30:42.663" Score="13" ViewCount="2526" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some states seem to have something called the 3 foot law to keep cars away from cyclists.  Why 3 feet?  Which states in the USA have it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1693" LastEditorUserId="24429" LastEditDate="2019-01-21T09:14:46.373" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T16:09:22.633" Title="What is the &quot;3 foot law&quot; and which US states have it?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;us&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11037" CreationDate="2012-08-28T11:54:12.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three feet just seems (to legislators) like a reasonable number (it's 1 meter in the UK and I think most of Europe).  And I know it's the law in Minnesota.  Don't know about any other states.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a different number make more sense?  Probably not.  Less would be out-and-out dangerous, and more would create the situation where the bike (in theory) blocks traffic in too many cases (and hence would be ignored even more than the current law).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T11:54:12.623" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11031" CreationDate="2012-08-28T12:32:56.687" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not for hand signals. &quot;Left hand only&quot; signals were originally designed for cars. You couldn't use your right hand out the window, so you could only use your left. Using both hands to properly signal on your bike is far more clear. It's used on motorcycles due to the fact that the throttle is on the right hand, so you want to keep that engaged at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reversed brake routing (front on the right, back on the left) is called &quot;moto&quot; routing and is primarily used in MTB and cyclocross bikes. On a CX bike, it's done so you can have greater controlled braking with the left hand on the back brake while your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTTOBnu7w-k&quot;&gt;dismounting your bike&lt;/a&gt; for a barrier and your right hand is on the top tube. The front brake offers more power, while the back offers easier minor speed control while approaching a barrier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your initial question, there is absolutely no reason the brakes cannot be switched on your bike. Either the mechanic is lazy or doesn't know how to work on hydraulic brakes. In either case, you should take it to another more capable shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastEditorUserId="3931" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T14:03:04.577" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T14:03:04.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11033" CreationDate="2012-08-28T12:33:56.517" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having cars in a drive-through is easy because they can only go by the ordering|payment|delivery windows one at a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any bicycles or pedestrians in that funnel could overtake each other and make a big confusion out of the sequence. That would ruin the process for the business because it's specifically meant to only handle an unchanging sequence of customers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, drive-though is faster than going in. If lots of pedestrians walk through the drive-through then you'll end up having a long queue inside &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; outside which also ruins the business model for the drive-through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="275" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T12:33:56.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-28T13:11:31.603" Score="9" ViewCount="19037" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schwinn-Sidewinder-26-Men-s-Mountain-Bike/16913454&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schwinn Sidewinder from Walmart&lt;/a&gt; last night in a desperate attempt to get some exercise.  I took it home and rode intensely for an hour, it was fantastic!  I may be wrong, but I see bicycles as modular and upgradable and am hoping some of you might have thoughts on some initial upgrades that I could invest in (i.e. seating, tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw this question ( &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/9948/3942&quot;&gt;How can I get started riding without spending a fortune (too much)?&lt;/a&gt; ) and the very first comment was a bit disheartening &lt;em&gt;&quot;Wow! $500 is a cheap bike...&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.  I hate to say it, but where I come from, people might buy 5 bikes for $500!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I'll spend $50-$100 over the next year, what kind of upgrades can I consider?  Keep in mind I'm a penny-pincher, but very enthusiastic and wouldn't be adverse to finding parts at a Goodwill or other consignment shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2quK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2quK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stock image from walmart.com&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3942" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T20:15:55.840" Title="What initial improvements can I make to a Schwinn Sidewinder?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2012-08-28T14:16:33.590" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;$50 - $100 isn't going to get you much in parts, especially any that would be an &quot;upgrade&quot; from your current setup. If you're riding your bike often, it's possible that you'll spend an amount approaching that this year on new tubes and/or tires when you get a flat or wear your tires out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to ride this bike and enjoy it. You'll get your exercise and it'll give you time to research bikes and save for one that will fuel your desire for more advanced riding down the road when you gain your fitness. Visit some bike shops in your area and talk with the staff there to find a bike that is in your range of needs and budget. Test ride lots of bikes to find one that fits properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need the &quot;fastest&quot; or most modern/expensive bike if you just want exercise. You just need something that is safe and functions for your needs. The best upgrade you can give your bike is the motor (yourself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T14:16:33.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11037" CreationDate="2012-08-28T14:33:21.703" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 3 foot law is an example of a law that exists mostly to create awareness rather than having some direct practical function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This law is &lt;em&gt;rarely&lt;/em&gt; enforced by itself. Can anyone cite an instance where a motorist was ticketed for passing in under three feet (and not ticketed for anything else)? The 3-foot law is, AFAIK, typically enforced as a supplement to some other violation such as failure to yield or reckless driving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But more than anything else, the intent is to create some level of awareness in motorists about how to deal with cyclists. If motorists know it is a law, most will make an effort to abide by the law. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick google search reveals that, as of this year, 20 states in the USA have this law.  You can view a map depicting the status of this law in the United States here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3feetplease.com/important-stuff&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.3feetplease.com/important-stuff&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that in the last 10 years or so, motorists have been getting much better than in the past about getting along with bikes. It could be the marked lanes/signage, or perhaps things like the 3-foot law, but I have noticed a LOT LESS &quot;entitlement-to-the-road&quot; behavior from motorists than in the 1990's and earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-01-19T02:36:43.247" LastActivityDate="2019-01-19T02:36:43.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11054" CreationDate="2012-08-28T14:33:52.250" Score="5" ViewCount="7490" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every taillight I've owned has mounted to the seat post, but when I load my rear rack the seatpost light is no longer visible. Instead, I'd like to mount a light to the rear of my rack, which has a single centered screw hole for mounting a light. What kinds of lights can I mount with this kind of setup? Are there lights specifically designed to be mounted on the back of a rack with a single screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best picture I can find is below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LJ9iQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Surly Rear Rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T15:52:09.280" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T10:29:23.550" Title="What kind of tail lights can I attach to the rear of my rack?" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;taillight&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11003" CreationDate="2012-08-28T15:18:43.000" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind adding a few miles, I'd suggest heading west toward Wissahickon Park first - maybe through Wyndmoor.   Then there are walk/bike trails all the way down to the art museum.   From there you'll need to contend with traffic, but it's not too crazy - or at least it wasn't 10 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="740" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T15:18:43.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2012-08-28T15:44:41.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, keep in mind that &lt;em&gt;maintaining&lt;/em&gt; a bike well doesn't cost much, but it makes a major difference in the long run. Keep it clean, check tire pressure weekly, adjust and oil it as needed. A well-maintained $100 bike works better than a neglected $1000 bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've eventually changed the following parts to most or all bikes I've ever owned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires. They may be ok, but particularly in a cheap bike they more likely are not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake pads. At least they wear out, and new, good-quality ones aren't expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedals. Cheap ones tend to have slippy surface and sticky bearing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebars. A major comfort factor and inexpensive to upgrade if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some essential add-ons include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speedometer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle holder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rack and maybe panniers, depending on what you use your bike for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="542" LastEditorUserId="542" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T16:15:45.887" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T16:15:45.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11044" CreationDate="2012-08-28T15:46:26.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a bolt that fits the thread and diameter that is about 2&quot; long, then some 1.25&quot; washers, and a 1&quot; diameter PVC x 2&quot; long. Bolting the PVC to my rack gave me plenty of space to use any light I wanted with ease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a photo of this, but I have this on two of my racks and love it. I break lights from time to time (mainly in storage or locking up), and the flexibility to use what ever light I need/want has been huge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T19:21:55.410" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T19:21:55.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2012-08-28T16:02:12.737" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see much point in &quot;improving&quot; the bike until you decide what improvements you need.  About the only thing I can think of that you might want to change right off is the tires, if they're heavily lugged (which I can't tell from the description) and you prefer road to off-road riding.  And, of course, you may find that a different seat would suit you better -- that's a fairly personal thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, wait to see what bothers you and fix it as you make up your mind.  The bike appears to be of at least decent quality, and replacing components (other than the tires or seat) is not likely to change how it rides in the near term.  What you may want to do is add a rack, headlight, etc, based on your specific needs, but these are pretty much the same regardless of bike quality (and could be transferred to a new bike, should you ever decide to &quot;trade up&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a month or two (after the cables and brakes have &quot;broken in&quot; a bit) you should take the bike to a bike shop for a tune-up -- adjust the brakes and shifters.  After that the tune-up should only be needed once/twice a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T16:02:12.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11044" CreationDate="2012-08-28T16:11:13.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the bike and your preferred light to a good hardware store.  The guy there should find some sort of angle bracket/whatever that (perhaps with a bit of drilling) will hold the two together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T16:11:13.987" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2012-08-28T19:05:48.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the front brake as the &lt;em&gt;primary&lt;/em&gt; brake 95% of the time, but the rear brake does get used a bit too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key with any braking is applying pressure to the levers &lt;strong&gt;slowly&lt;/strong&gt;. When you apply brakes &lt;strong&gt;slowly&lt;/strong&gt; and are prepared to reduce brake-pressure the moment you feel slippage, flipping over the front or uncontrolled sliding of the rear really aren't problems. Flipping over the front of the bike due to front wheel-braking should only be a concern if the rider's reaction is to &quot;grab&quot; at the breaks rather than slowly applying them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I often use both brakes while road and mountain-biking, I never apply &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; rear during hard breaking and emergency stops. I apply the rear mostly for minor speed control or for attitude correction while mountain biking (forcing a skid, lowering from a wheelie, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When tackling steep downhills on a mountain bike I exclusively use the front brake and modulate its pressure so that it is right on the edge of traction. When I feel the front tire begin to skid out or I feel the back wheel lift off the ground I reduce the braking pressure. On steep downhills I intentionally let completely off the rear brake so that the rear wheel can roll freely and keep me tracking straight downhill rather than sliding sideways uncontrollably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slight tangent: one of the best things about today's disk brakes is that they have a great usable range of braking pressures. Unlike V-brakes which come on quickly and hard, with disks it's very easy to modulate the pressure, even to the point of riding a front-wheelie downhill in a very controlled fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T19:05:48.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11037" CreationDate="2012-08-28T19:12:16.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Five feet seems to be a popular variant of the 3-feet law.  I suspect that's because if you tell people five, maybe they will give three.  But five has the benefit of making it cleaer that the car needs to partially cross over to the other lane instead of trying to squeeze by without crossing the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T19:12:16.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-28T20:22:47.683" Score="7" ViewCount="1644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering some Schwalbe Marathon Winter tires so I can continue commuting to work during the UK winter ( -3°C to +8°C, with some snow and ice). However, I only have V-brakes. Are those brakes going to be acceptable in sub-zero temperature, occasionally while snowing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="1090" LastEditDate="2012-12-08T22:14:59.077" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T14:09:12.067" Title="V-brakes during winter?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11052" CreationDate="2012-08-28T20:30:45.870" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. They will be fine. Plenty of people use them in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wb8bAl1P-N0/SXC4yEpe9rI/AAAAAAAAFqo/M8URc7cTpSY/s1600-h/minnesota.jpg&quot;&gt;Minnesota Winters&lt;/a&gt; without problems. Just make sure they are always in good shape, which is something you have to do with all brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T20:30:45.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11044" CreationDate="2012-08-28T20:33:49.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new rack specifically because my old rack had no good spot to attach a light to. Well, that, and it has a broken weld causing it to rattle.  The rack I bought is &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/09589&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. I got the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bontrager.com/model/11366&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bontrager Flare 2&lt;/a&gt;, which easily attached to the rack with a single bolt. The light has 3 modes, which are steady, strobe, and random. Random works well if you're riding in a group as the light can be too bright otherwise with all the LEDs on at the same time.  Also, check out this &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/2012/03/tail-light-review/&quot;&gt;Tail Light Review&lt;/a&gt; on an amazing site.  The chart shows which mounting options are included with the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T09:08:28.537" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T09:08:28.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11052" CreationDate="2012-08-28T20:35:06.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience when it's around zero wet snow sometimes clamps up in v-brakes so they malfunction (don't brake). But when there is no wet snow or there is only a little -- it is ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4770" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T20:35:06.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11033" CreationDate="2012-08-28T20:45:45.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I tried it at McDonalds, they told me they were only insured for motorized vehicles coming through the drive through and would not serve me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They had a campaign on at the time promoting something along the lines of how their food was healthy when enjoyed as part of a healthy life-style. I pointed out that I was cycling as part of my healthy lifestyle, and they really ought to do everything they could to support me with that. When I emailed them later to ask more about it and suggested they allow bikes through the drive through, they blatantly ignored my suggestion and replied restating that their insurance didn't cover them for bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I mentioned to the person at the window that I didn't have my bike lock, they told me I could take my bike inside! I wish now that I'd taken them up on the offer - I'm sure I would have struggled through their double set of doors, and my bike would have become an obstacle to other diners - but I was a bit annoyed at the time so I went elsewhere to eat. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="472" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T21:28:29.593" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T21:28:29.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11011" CreationDate="2012-08-28T20:59:20.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used white lightening and thought it was good. I never use oil based lubes now - they're just too messy and you end up paying double because you need to first buy the oil and then also buy expensive degreaser to wash them off again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do get through wax based lubes faster than oil - you have to reapply more often. Compared to the faff of oil based lubes though, it seems worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do have to still clean your chain and cogs off every so often. How often depends on the weather, distance and type of terrain you've been cycling through. But, it seems like far less mess and time is required than oil based lubes. To clean I soak the chain in a mix of hot water, washing up liquid and something like kitchen/hob surface cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my girlfriend appreciates it too as I make less of a mess when doing any bike maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I forgot how nasty oil based lubes can be until recently when I stopped on a trail to help a guy with a broken chain. His chain was gunked up nastily. The oily emulsion looked like it held particles of grit in it well, so I'm sure he was grinding through his chain and transmission with it. Also, I gave up trying to wash the stuff completely off my hands after I got home, and ended up with marks that lasted a few days until my body shed a layer of skin. I wouldn't have had that problem if he'd used a wax based lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T20:59:20.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-28T21:58:26.367" Score="1" ViewCount="9651" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bought a Trek &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_3_fx/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FX 7.3&lt;/a&gt; instead of the 7.2, the bike dealer told me that the tires were the same. They looked narrower, but I thought it was just that I was used to my other bike. I found out later that the FX 7.3 indeed has narrower 32 mm tires.  Can I put 35 mm tires on my FX 7.3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4897" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-08-30T03:45:13.360" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T22:45:13.040" Title="Can I replace the 32 mm tires on a Trek 7.3 with 35 mm tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2012-08-28T23:11:14.847" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to picking the right type of bike and avoiding stolen bikes, which have been addressed in existing answers, it's important to consider whether a particular bike is well made and in good condition. Depending on the price, a few minor maintenance needs may be expected, but a single serious problem or a large number of minor problems can easily make it more expensive to get a used bike in good condition than it is worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11060/how-can-you-recognize-a-department-store-bike&quot;&gt;department store bikes&lt;/a&gt;. Note that many bike shops refuse to service such bikes because they are low quality, hard to repair, and impossible to properly tune.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick inspection can reveal mechanical problems. The following list of common problems to look for is loosely ordered from more serious to less serious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame&lt;/strong&gt;. A cracked, bent, or dented frame affects both safety and performance. Not only would it be expensive to get a new/used frame, but removing and installing the parts from the other bike would be a lot of work. Note that creaking can be caused by a damaged frame.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drivetrain&lt;/strong&gt;. In addition to the cost of replacing rusted parts, a rusty chain, cog, or derailleur is a sign that a bike has been left outside and poorly maintained. Unsmooth shifting may only require derailleur adjustment or new cables (which are easy and inexpensive to replace), but a damaged derailleur is a more serious problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheels&lt;/strong&gt;. Try spinning each wheel off the ground: it should spin smoothly for a while, and it shouldn't appear wobbly. A hub that doesn't spin smoothly may require new bearings or may even need to be replaced. A slightly warped rim can be a minor problem if there's just a broken spoke, but a severely warped or tacoed rim may be unfixable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes&lt;/strong&gt;. Unsmooth braking usually only requires adjustment or new cables but can be a sign of a bigger problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain, tires, and brake pads&lt;/strong&gt;. Replacing &quot;consumable&quot; parts is relatively easy, but a $20 chain, two $30 tires, and two $10 pairs of brake pads adds up to $100. New parts can increase the effective price of an otherwise cheap bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T23:20:13.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11068" CreationDate="2012-08-28T23:19:48.233" Score="7" ViewCount="8378" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can obviously avoid department store bikes by buying from reputable local bike shops, but how can you tell whether a used bike is a department store bike? Are there any telltale signs? I have a friend who is looking to buy a used bike, and I would like to tell him what to look out for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-09-08T00:54:27.557" LastActivityDate="2017-09-08T00:54:27.557" Title="How can you recognize a department store bike?" Tags="&lt;used-bike&gt;&lt;bso&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11058" CreationDate="2012-08-29T00:09:35.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;32mm to 35mm is a small change. It's not going to make a huge difference in ride quality and because it's a small change, any bike that comes with 32mm tires is very likely to handle 35mm tires with no difficulties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 7.2FX and 7.3FX are the same frame, but a different fork. It's hard to be sure from the online description, but probably also the same brakes. The wheels are different, but it's a small enough tire size change that it's not a problem. All the geometric specs are identical for all sizes between the two models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the 7.2 works with a 35mm tire, the 7.3 will almost definitely work with the same 35mm tire on the rear, and very likely work with the same 35mm tire on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 35mm wide tire should be 1.5mm wider on each side than a 32mm tire, and will have a similar increased outer radius. 1.5mm is the thickness of a US penny (or a smidge more than the thickness of a dime), so you can use a couple dimes to measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there at least 2mm of room on each side (and top) of the tire where it passes through the top of the fork? Same amount of room or more where it passes through the brakes? That's the most likely problem areas here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double-check the back if you're still worried: is there 2mm clearance around all sides of the tire where it goes through the brake, where it goes between the seatstays, where it goes through the chain stays and where it gets closest to the seat tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all those check out, then you're in the clear.  If it's a close call, you'll just have to try it, or go into the shop and ask them to help you see if it'll work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T00:09:35.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11067" CreationDate="2012-08-29T01:08:27.707" Score="5" ViewCount="3470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just picked up an old bike with white brake hoods. They are pretty gnarsty, covered in a greyish brown layer of filth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a soapy rag and scrubber brush with elbow grease. It takes care of most of the issue, but they're not pure clean. Is there any trick to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T10:41:06.560" Title="Is there a good way to clean brake hoods?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10938" CreationDate="2012-08-29T01:28:35.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bunny-hop is a skill that all cyclists should learn.  It's not really a trick, IMO.  You don't have to be MacAskill-good, but being able to get over a curb (or curb-like object) is handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4493" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T01:28:35.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10907" CreationDate="2012-08-29T01:31:15.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I commute every weekday, I start to feel it by the end of the week.  This is likely down to my conditioning, but I find I need at least one day off to let my muscles recover and get stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4493" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T01:31:15.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11060" CreationDate="2012-08-29T01:35:29.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I look at is the components. Even the cheapest bikes have Shimano components, however they are below the lowest tier. It will say Shimano but will have no tier designation such as Deore,Ultegra,Alivio,etc. Go to the Shimano website and check out the component levels so you&quot;ll be familiar with the names. One give away of a cheap bike is a &quot;Shimano Equiped&quot; or &quot;24 speed&quot; sticker on the frame. As @WTHarper has said manufacturers that sell bikes to Large box stores often do not list those models on their websites. Talk to your local bike shop and ask about trade-ins. Generally bike shops will only take a good quality bike in trade. Ask them to show you the charateristics of a good bike. It should have quick release wheels, a threadless headset, double wall rims to name a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T01:35:29.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10907" CreationDate="2012-08-29T01:45:07.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you want to do.  If you simply want to ride to work as efficiently as possible, pace yourself every day so that you are more or less equally tired each day; take it a little easier when you are tired, speed up a little when you feel fresher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to really improve your riding, so that you could, for example, participate in longer recreational rides or so that in six months you could commute faster, you should do a training cycle.  Ride hard, push yourself, on alternate days, taking it as easy as you can on the other days (the hard-easy alternation gives you the maximum workout while still allowing recovery; for even faster gains, you should only ride the hard days while resting the easy days, but that wouldn't work well for commuting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4898" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T01:45:07.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11062" CreationDate="2012-08-29T01:46:27.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using &quot;Foaming Bathroom Cleaner&quot; aka Scrubbing Bubbles and an old toothbruth for about two years with good results. I can't say anything about the long term results as it's only been two years. Your case might be tougher as I think the biggest tip is to clean them before the dirt gets really ground in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T01:46:27.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11060" CreationDate="2012-08-29T02:18:06.487" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per @Mikes Answer, but a bit more than fits into a comment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only buy a bike with the brand/model of major components able to  be researched. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a Mountain bike, shocks are a dead giveaway, and if rear suspension, look at the shock, although they sometimes don't have a model, the good ones always have a brand. From there, pictures will get you close enough. Also look at the geometry - if it looks like a light weight motorbike it's rubbish (Unless it's a top end down hill rig)....  keep in mind age makes a big difference here, so search teh internet for parts of similar ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes - Disk brakes should have a brand/model than can be researched. Rim brakes usually have something, but it's always a bad sign if not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat / Seat post - worth a look, not a bad sign if no brand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drive train components can be tricky, many shops put an expensive rear derailleur on an otherwise cheap bike (That is all many people look at). Look at the cranks, the front derailleur, the shifters etc. These will usually have model information somewhere.  Wheels and hubs - again look at the brand/model - most came out with labels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One useful guide is overall weight - lighter bikes cost a lot more. BUT make sure you compare like for like. No point comparing a carbon frame to a steel frame and assuming the carbon is better because it's lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a novice stick to a brand/model that you can get the details off the internet. Look for a bike that has signs of light or no use. Everything should work smoothly and reliably. No groans, squeaks, clattering of any sort. The problem is any of these can be a sign of big money or a 2 minute tweak to fix and it takes expert eye to tell the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T02:18:06.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11062" CreationDate="2012-08-29T02:41:15.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have white hoods on one bike and found that Armor-All, like I use for my car, worked pretty well. They are a bit slick for a short time after application, but it does seem to lift the dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T02:41:15.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11060" CreationDate="2012-08-29T02:44:42.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With old road bikes (e.g. pre-brifter) it's often as simple as looking at the shifters. If they're on the stem, it's a department store bike. If the shifters are on the downtube, it was probably from a bike shop. The only exception is that some touring bikes supposedly came with stem shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another great indicator with older bikes, if it's a butted frame, is to look at the lugs. The more ornate a lug is, generally speaking the higher quality the frame will be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T02:44:42.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10907" CreationDate="2012-08-29T05:47:16.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been commuting for the last 8 years. On my starting days, I did notice some differences among the first day of the week and last. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, this happens till your body adjusts to the cycling rhythm. From then you only have to maintain your diet and rest well then, you will be able to recover full on the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give your body some time to adjust to the routine. Find out the correct diet plan and rest time it needs to recover full, then just maintain that and cycle regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T05:47:16.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11021" CreationDate="2012-08-29T06:13:30.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you don't take your bike on a long strenuous ride or torque the snot out of it, you should be OK. Make sure the remaining 4 are properly tightened. Normal commuting should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T06:13:30.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11060" CreationDate="2012-08-29T06:37:00.027" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some department store bikes are actually pretty decent. A few years ago some of the bigger named bike companies started selling bikes through WalMart and other stores. Which tubes are 4130 and which are just high-ten is near impossible to tell unless someone told you so look for other signs of higher quality. I will look at the welds, if you have centipedes you have a better bike than one with toothpaste welds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVRO6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you decide the frame is good enough, look at the components: do the derailleurs look flimsy? Check if the brake levers and shifters look solid. Do the cranks and chain look strong? Is part of the bike painted day-glo pink? It would be nice if they had all the original stickers, but if not, you need to use your judgement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the frame and then the parts; you rarely see good parts on crappy frames, unless someone is trying to trick you, and then, you can take the parts and put them on a good frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastEditorUserId="896" LastEditDate="2015-01-04T15:50:11.953" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T15:50:11.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11154" CreationDate="2012-08-29T16:26:55.420" Score="3" ViewCount="1097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make (DYS) a rack or cart for carrying a surfboard on my bike. The idea would be to have space for only 1 board and being able to go as far as 150 km. So it should be as light as possible, comfortable and made of afordable materials (of course the combination will be located on an optimum non-perfect point). So, going through the internet I have seen a lot of different models, but I don't have any experience in relation to them. What configuration would you recommend me?  Depending on how the board is placed, I would be worry for being affected by the wind or making the bike and/or the cart inestable. Is the wind really a problem? I will use it in Scotland, so it could get windy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesurfingblog.com/surfboard-bike-rack-the-many-styles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.thesurfingblog.com/surfboard-bike-rack-the-many-styles/&lt;/a&gt;  (site dead 2015-12-02)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this one (if it works) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bettersurfthansorry.com/prod-39-1-1386/.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bettersurfthansorry.com/prod-39-1-1386/.htm&lt;/a&gt; However, it seems way too expensive for what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hjbww.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hjbww.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4854" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T22:44:28.847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T22:44:28.847" Title="Experience with surfboard bike rack (or cart)" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2012-08-29T16:49:16.617" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The speed limits of the German traffic law (Straßenverkehrsordnung) make a distinction between general rules for &quot;Vehicles&quot; (Fahrzeuge) and &quot;vehicles with engines&quot; (Kraftfahrzeuge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gesetze-im-internet.de/stvo_2013/__3.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;§3 StVO&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Wer ein Fahrzeug führt, darf nur so schnell fahren, dass das Fahrzeug ständig beherrscht wird.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Die zulässige Höchstgeschwindigkeit beträgt auch unter günstigsten Umständen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;innerhalb geschlossener Ortschaften für alle Kraftfahrzeuge 50 km/h,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;translation of this excerpt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The driver may only drive in such a speed that he's always in control of his vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The allowed maximum speed is, even under good conditions for all motorized vehicles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;inside of built-up areas (cities etc.) 50 km/h,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the first generic rule is for all kinds of vehicles, the second one is specific for motorized ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that's the basic rule. But as soon as there's a sign with a maximum speed things become different: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gesetze-im-internet.de/stvo_2013/anlage_2.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rule for Sign 274&lt;/a&gt; (speed limit, red circle with max speed in the middle) says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lvZp7.png&quot; alt=&quot;speed limit sign&quot;&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Ge- oder Verbot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Fahrzeugführer dürfen nicht schneller als mit der angegebenen Höchstgeschwindigkeit fahren.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Sind durch das Zeichen innerhalb geschlossener Ortschaften bestimmte Geschwindigkeiten über 50 km/h zugelassen, gilt das für Fahrzeuge aller Art.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Außerhalb geschlossener Ortschaften bleiben die für bestimmte Fahrzeugarten geltenden Höchstgeschwindigkeiten (§ 3 Absatz 3 Nummer 2 Buchstabe a und b und § 18 Absatz 5) unberührt, wenn durch das Zeichen eine höhere Geschwindigkeit zugelassen ist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again a rough translation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lvZp7.png&quot; alt=&quot;speed limit sign&quot;&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Order or ban&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Drivers may not go faster than the shown speed limit&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If this sign allows higher speed than 50km/h in an built-up area this is valid for all kinds of vehicles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Outside of built-up areas the maximum speeds for special vehicles [note: trucks may go only 80 etc.] in place, if this sign would allow a higher speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, combining these two rules with my naive interpretation a cycler may go as fast as he wants within built-up  areas. But as soon as there's a sign like &quot;max 60&quot; that's valid for bicycles, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience cops once pulled me over in an area with a speed limit of 30 while i was going something around 35-40 and &quot;reminded&quot; me that there's no racing track. But didn't give me a fine or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit off topic but a continuation from the above quote which can be fun for non-Germans:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Die zulässige Höchstgeschwindigkeit beträgt außerhalb geschlossener Ortschaften für Personenkraftwagen sowie für andere Kraftfahrzeuge mit einer zulässigen Gesamtmasse bis 3,5 t 100 km/h. Diese Geschwindigkeitsbeschränkung gilt nicht auf Autobahnen [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;translation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The allowed maximum speed is outside of built-up areas (cities etc.) for cars and other vehicles with a maximum allowed weight up to 3.5 tons 100km/h. This limit does not cover motorways [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consequence is: Ther is no general speed limit on motorways, cars can go as fast as they like - unless there are other signs (and insurance will cause trouble in case of an accident etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastEditorUserId="24619" LastEditDate="2016-02-27T20:19:04.900" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T20:19:04.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1812" CreationDate="2012-08-29T17:33:59.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coincidentally I brought my kids to a local bike safety event this weekend. The rules they prescribed were: (1) If you look up you should be able to see the front of your helmet, (2) The straps should form a &quot;V&quot; around your ears, and (3) When you open your mouth you should feel the helmet push down on the top of your head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4825" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T17:33:59.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6475" CreationDate="2012-08-29T20:23:46.107" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a 09 giant yukon fx3 with rock shox dart 2 forks, im looking into upgrading forks and if i get some with a tapered steerer, is there a way to accomodate these, seeing as the headset at the moment is a 1-1/8th ? any help is appreciated, cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4906" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T20:23:46.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10207" CreationDate="2012-08-30T00:15:02.783" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pedestrians (though not sprinters), wheelchairs, and pedestrians using walkers are &lt;a href=&quot;http://robotics.stanford.edu/users/mark/taxonomy.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;statically stable&lt;/a&gt;, while cyclists are dynamically stable (with the exception of some fixie freaks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Locomotion is defined to be the act or power of moving from place to place. &lt;em&gt;Statically stable locomotion&lt;/em&gt; has the added constraint that the moving body be stable at all times. In other words, if the body were to instantaneously stop all motion, the body would still be standing. More specifically, the vertical projection of the center of gravity will be contained within the convex hull of the body's points of contact with the ground at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since pedestrians often assume that others can stop on a dime, they make sudden directional changes without thinking about what's around them.  Mixing pedestrians and cyclists on narrow sidewalks where cyclists can't reroute is a recipe for collisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-08-30T00:20:12.980" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T00:20:12.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10207" CreationDate="2012-08-30T06:50:04.647" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding of the law in the UK is that a bicycle is a vehicle (meaning that you must cycle them on the road and not the pavement, not that anyone around here seems to obey that particular law), but they are not motor vehicle, meaning you don't need to pay road tax, hold a license, are exempt from speed limits (but can still be pulled up and fined for dangerous cycling which can include excessive speed) and don't need an MOT certificate to prove your bike is roadworthy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a legal expert, however, so the usual disclaimers apply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion is that they're considered vehicles because getting hit by a fast-moving bike is a much bigger deal than being hit by a sprinter! Also, a pedestrian can come to a stop and not fall over, whereas a cyclist needs to put their leg out, hold onto something, etc, to keep from going over when stationary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T06:50:04.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11113" CreationDate="2012-08-30T11:39:07.203" Score="4" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess you can include Century in the list too.  Are they all just long rides or are they races?   Do they have to be for time, or just fun?   Some seem to be for charity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1693" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T15:20:23.977" Title="What's the difference between a Gran Fondo and an Étape?" Tags="&lt;terminology&gt;&lt;organized-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1665" CreationDate="2012-08-30T12:11:15.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Mike - the first time I come off the rollers and hit the road I can definitely fell the difference in my form, particularly with my cadence. They're great as an adjunct to regular season cycling, too, since they really force you to concentrate on a smooth pedal form (if you're &quot;pushing&quot; the pedals as opposed to turning them you'll surge back and forth). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend starting up next to a wall or in a doorframe since it'll take a little while to get used to balancing on them and staying in line on the rollers. Don't give up - we've all fallen off them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And definitely check out the range of rollers available; I have some nice Action Mag aluminum smooth rollers with an adjustable flywheel on them, but you can do what you need to do without a lot of the add-ons (and add them on later, too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as getting boring, I usually listen to music, either on an iPad strapped to my arm (so I can flip through my play list) or on the stereo. If you're just starting out I'd suggest avoiding watching TV and concentrate on a spot about two feet in front of your front wheel. Sounds weird, but it helps keep you straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T12:11:15.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1665" CreationDate="2012-08-30T12:59:17.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting used to rollers is similar in difficulty to driving a manual transmission car. The first day will be really tricky (especially the first hilarious 20 minutes). Soon, you get familiar with it enough that you can use the rollers without needing to occasionally grab something for stabilization as long as you have total concentration. Over time you develop motor skills that kick-in and that frees up your concentration so you can do things like sip water or watch TV or juggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main point is that the amount of actual concentration that you need will decrease as your motor skills develop. Eventually, you won't need to &quot;think&quot; about it when on the rollers at all. The amount of time this takes seems to vary a lot and depends on how much practice you're willing to put in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of rollers is different from trainers. On rollers you're developing form. This translates to increased efficiency on the road. The trainer is more about developing strength and power.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T12:59:17.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11100" CreationDate="2012-08-30T13:26:51.463" Score="-2" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently changed my bike from a hardtail to a full sus.&#xA;The only thing I could afford was the new frame. so new frame old pats :)&#xA;now I have some more euros and a want to buy some new parts where to I start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New brakes. With the new frame I can go at least 10km/h faster. I need more braking power...&#xA;this is the ones I have: Tektro Draco / Hydraulic Disc 160/F and 160/R Rotor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New wells to make the beast go faster...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this is the ones I have:&#xA;Rims - Araya TX-633 / D-Wall / white&#xA;Front Hub - Scott Disc Team&#xA;Rear Hub - Shimano FH-M475 L&#xA;Spokes - 15 G, stainless, black&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New seat pole, those hydraulic to avoid constant adjustments to climb descent...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the new frame is a lapierre zesty 314 2011... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friends say we do all mountain, I say we do very hard XC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice regarding the new materials, personal choice, etc... I'll be happy.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3665" LastEditorUserId="3665" LastEditDate="2012-08-31T08:52:22.450" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T08:52:22.450" Title="Brakes, rims or seatpole" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;bike-setup&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2012-08-30T15:27:59.427" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some tips to avoid getting a stolen bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Google the phone number. If they are selling a number of bikes be alert. If the number is listed with a number of different names, you can almost guarantee the bike is stolen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The price might be suspiciously low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thieves often know little about bikes and often have very poor grammar and spelling. If it's a very nice bike, a legitimate seller will be very aware of what it is and what it's worth. They won't list is as &quot;AWESOME BIKE. gos very fast. black weels&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Things listed as &quot;must go today&quot;, &quot;selling for a friend&quot; etc. should raise alarm bells.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4913" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T15:27:59.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11037" CreationDate="2012-08-30T15:46:03.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pennsylvania's got a new four-foot law.  It was recently &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lehighvalleylive.com/bethlehem/index.ssf/2012/04/bethlehem_cyclist_injured_in_h.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;enforced&lt;/a&gt; after an attempted hit-and-run in Bethlehem, PA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7AVC1YCcO0).  (I should clarify that it was a hit-and-attempted-run, as other motorists pinned the driver in to prevent him from running).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3161" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T15:46:03.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11089" CreationDate="2012-08-30T16:03:59.393" Score="3" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm setting up a double crankset with a new front chainring which is ramped and pinned.  How should I orient the outer front chainring with respect to the chain drop prevention pin?  Should this line up with the crank arm, opposite the crank arm, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T16:13:25.683" Title="When Installing chainrings which are pinned, how should I orient the chain drop prevention pin?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11088" CreationDate="2012-08-30T16:13:25.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pin should line up with the inside of the crankarm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T16:13:25.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11094" CreationDate="2012-08-30T17:40:57.833" Score="1" ViewCount="2864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am mostly concerned about track-stand here, because it requires much balance, so the question on &quot;which foot to put forward&quot; seems important enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-trackstand-on-a-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This tutorial&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;stand up with your strong foot on the forward pedal&quot; (at time 0:46).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&amp;amp;v=hkJPZZZ1YdM#t=51s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This tutorial&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;the lead foot, which is the foot you're most comfortable putting in front...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strikes me very odd, because my right foot is stronger, but i feel &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; more comfortable with the left foot in front. When i am standing on my pedals, i mostly stand with my center of gravity behind the point where the cranks are attached. So it makes sense that my weight is mostly on the back foot, and it should be the stronger foot. However, other stuff i found in the Internet (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/992/4056&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;) invariably recommends putting your &quot;strong&quot;, &quot;good&quot; or &quot;dominant&quot; foot in front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am i missing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did i get used to a wrong technique, and should break my bad habits now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it not important enough, and i worry too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T08:10:53.280" Title="Which foot to put forward when coasting or track-standing?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;trackstand&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11090" CreationDate="2012-08-30T17:49:43.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not directly relevant to your question, but it may provide some insight:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a medical condition (post-polio syndrome) which is causing me to lose muscle strength.  As a result, I'm starting to have difficulty sometimes starting out from a standing stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My left leg is about 30% weaker than my right leg, but my inclination is to stand on my right leg, clip in my left leg, and then start out, with my first downstroke on the left (weak) leg.  But I'm becoming convinced I'd do better if I can train myself to do it the opposite way (which I've just started working on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, when standing on one leg, you tend to want to stand on your stronger leg, without thinking of what you'll be doing next, and whether you'll need that stronger leg for a different activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that you similarly are more comfortable with your weight on the stronger leg, even though you really need that stronger leg in the &quot;awkward&quot; position so that it's instantly available for power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-08-30T22:20:16.900" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T22:20:16.900" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-30T18:04:29.637" Score="5" ViewCount="12185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to buy a MTB, since we don't have cyclocrosses here in my country. I'd like to have a road dropbar, but can't spend money on a road shifter like tiagra sti. I know the mtb handlebars are thinner than the road handlebars. Is there a way to make, say, a deore shifter on a road drop handlebar? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4915" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T12:47:20.583" Title="How do I make a MTB shifter fit on a Road dropbar?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-30T19:05:49.037" Score="0" ViewCount="1147" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a specialized hardrock 2011. i want to improve the capabilities of my bike but am on a budget so cant get a new one. I would like to upgrade the fork, brakes or gears and im looking for something in the range of £50-£150. anyone have any suggestions as to what to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4876" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T03:52:49.657" Title="what should ibe the first thing i upgrade on my bike?" Tags="&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2012-08-30T21:59:29.890" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11090" CreationDate="2012-08-30T19:06:02.217" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just trackstanding on a flat road, mountain bike or other regular situation, just use the foot you feel most comfortable with in the forward position. The real key to performing a good, solid trackstand is to find a balance of forward pressure with your front pedal and resistance with either your brakes or your rear pedal (if you're riding fixed gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another key to help out that I've found particularly useful is to try to keep the balance of the bike so that you can turn your handlebars in the same direction as your lead foot. This helps equalize the forward/backward pressures. Additionally, it helps prevent a tumble due to toe overlap, which isn't as big a deal on mountain bikes as it is on track bikes and road bikes because the front wheel is further out in front of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trackstanding on an actual track in track racing - like a match sprint race - you'll want to have your right foot forward and turn your bars to the right. This allows you to use the banking of the track as your reverse resistance and your lead (right) foot as your forward pressure. Doing the opposite will make it much harder to control as gravity will want to pull you down to the middle of the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This same school of thought can be applied to a hill or other grade when mountain biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T19:06:02.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11090" CreationDate="2012-08-30T19:27:36.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no rule or best, it's just whatever feels natural. Similar to which foot you put forward on a (skate,snow,surf)board. I'm always left foot forward on bmx, but that was mainly because I didn't want to wreck my right hand drive sprocket when I was first learning how to do grinds on my left side. If I try to do anything right foot forward it feels super awkward. Some people can ride both ways but they are freaks of nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T19:27:36.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2012-08-30T20:06:10.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain and rear hub are quite clean.  Unless this was due to power washing, this indicates that the bike was very lightly used and probably needs little maintenance.  (Confirm this by observing if the brake pads are very worn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I'd check the bearings for play, but not disassemble/repack then unless there is significant play or other signs of wear.  (If only a little bit of play simply adjust the bearings.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shift and brake cables can always benefit from a shot of spray lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At ten years old the brake pads may need replacing, but it's not a given.  Replace them if they seem to have hardened, or if they show a lot of wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, maybe run the chain through a chain washer, and certainly give it a shot of lube.  Adjust shifter and brakes, and give the whole thing a good test ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually you may want to give it a complete tuneup -- truing wheels, etc -- but that can wait until it's had some &quot;break in&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T20:06:10.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11092" CreationDate="2012-08-30T20:38:36.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend trying out some bar end shifters. You can get indexed ones for a few different gearing combinations. There are some &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000F5EFOC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ultegra bar end shifters&lt;/a&gt; on amazon for around $75usd. However, you could probably score some used ones cheaper via ebay. These are like what come on the surly cross check in the stock configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could mount regular rapidfire shifters on the top center part of the drop bars.  It might take some widening of the clamp to get it to work.  There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/done-mtb-rapidfire-shifters-drop-bar-728258.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread on MTBR&lt;/a&gt; about an experience like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T20:38:36.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11093" CreationDate="2012-08-30T21:17:17.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just happen to be a self serviced mechanic who is used to the budget limited upgrading process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start assembling bikes from the frame up, so the first thing I get is anything that is able to roll and is pedalable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that point, use it as much as you can, (this is where you are now) and start evaluating with parts are you pushing harder toward its limits. While you ride, pay particular attention to how often you bottom the fork, how often you find yourself out of gears (either high or low), if you make too much effort while braking or whether flexing of some component is too annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before deciding to replace some part of your bike, be sure that it can not be serviced or adjusted. For example some forks can improve performance changing internal springs or elastomers, changing the oil grade or moving spacers to change travel. All of these are operations better performed together with deep maintenance. Also, be sure to readjust anything that is adjustable, (preload, rebound or others) as your body changes (get heavier/lighter, stronger) and your technique evolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be sure to re true your rims and check if all spokes are in good condition. Check adjustment and condition of bottom bracket, headset and pedal bearings and cleats (if applicable). Make sure brake pads are also in good condition. Check rotors and cables or hoses as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you perform the appropriate maintenance you can optimize your bike's performance, so you can better decide where to invest. Also you eliminate the possibility that something that can be solved with a simple, inexpensive exchange makes you spend your money on a less necessary or less wanted feature. (Good brakes are an example: my LBS is crying to me to upgrade to hydraulic disc brakes, but I'm just as happy with mechanical brakes in one bike, and v-brakes in another, I just have to clean the pads and rotors/rims periodically, with the savings I bought a fork, which I really needed and really enjoy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think the fork is one component that can change the bike handling radically, any other component will have a more modest impact in riding (Assuming they all are performing correctly). A good fork will enable you to descend faster, with more precision and confidence, but also won't steal your energy when pumping up a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of the major bearings (hubs and the bottom bracket) is also a good upgrade. If yours are really cheap or are really beaten up, you can get a significant improvement. Basically you'll be faster while exerting the same force or you'll end up less tired at the end of a ride. However, if you are already on mid-range hubs or BB, and yours can be serviced, just do so. Upgrading will be expensive but not as significative (you won't feel that much of an improvement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drivetrain is a delicate topic. It can be a huge advantage, but it can also be very expensive. Going from a 8 speed setup to a 9 speed one is very expensive as the price gap is significative and you usually have to change several components at a time. Be sure first if rear derailleur can be serviced, for example, can you buy new pulleys for it at a reasonable price? Before deciding to upgrade, be sure your problem can not be solved by a similar  component. For example you need more climbing gears and have an 11-28 8 speed cassette, chances are you can get away with a 11-32 8 speed cassette, but your LBS may say you &quot;have&quot; to upgrade to 9 spd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My final advice regarding upgrades on a budget is: since you have a rideable bike, your upgrade is not an emergency, so, plan to upgrade something, make a list of brands/models that fit your application and if none of them is a bargain, wait for one that is (I'm not saying you wait forever). Usually you can get really good prices during inventory clearances, or you can buy OEM parts (they were part of a complete bike, but were removed in the store because the client upgraded with the purchase, or the store decided to sell the bike by components). With OEM components you get lower price because you get an item that may have installation marks and almost sure you won't get packaging or manuals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you wait, save money to increase your budget. And also, talk to friends and acquaintances, you may get lucky (A friend once just gave me a fork, it was dented and the LBS advised him to replace it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T03:52:49.657" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T03:52:49.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11092" CreationDate="2012-08-30T21:44:33.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try mounting them as close to the center of the bar as possible, where you can reach them easily with your hands on the top of the bar, or reach both of them easily with one hand off the bar.  I know this sounds clunky, but my first multi-speed bike was a Schwinn Varsity that had the shifters on the stem, and it was less difficult to use than you might expect without trying it.  True, you can't change gears when pumping hard, but if you expect to need to be able to, you probably wouldn't be switching to drop handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4898" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T21:44:33.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11085" CreationDate="2012-08-30T22:01:14.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, better brakes have never increased my top speed, I would be happy with a fraction of your 10km/h increase, can you please tell us how it works for you? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once joined a group of strangers I met on a ride. They had $5K bikes, I assumed I would never be able to keep up on my beat up 1995 hack. How wrong was I. See, I spent $200 bucks on a 2 day training course and knew how to ride (well, at least a lot better than I did), they spend 5K on their bikes and didn't.  That $200 was the best money I every spent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride is reliable, unless you have the skills of a world class rider, get some training/coaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T22:01:14.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-31T00:48:09.687" Score="3" ViewCount="6903" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies if this is is obvious or has been answered before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at setting up a touring bike, using road STI levers (Shimano or equivalent, looking at Tiagra 3x9 or possibly the Microshift 3x9) with a MTB derailleur (probably just Deore) and 9 speed cassette, in order to get the gearing right for loaded riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will there be any compatibility issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4916" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T10:10:54.377" Title="9 Speed Road STI + MTB Derailleur" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11104" CreationDate="2012-08-31T02:01:04.327" Score="6" ViewCount="4273" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I manage to get a dropbar on my mtb and want to use both the MTB brake lever AND the road dropbar brake lever (like the Tiagra STI, but no gear shifting)... Is it possible? Can they use the same brake cable? I want something like &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/-fNrUPJpxHI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4917" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T12:36:25.167" Title="How do I make a road brake lever work alongside a mtb brake lever" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11105" CreationDate="2012-08-31T02:29:14.733" Score="1" ViewCount="3643" Body="&lt;p&gt;Such as Shimano acera, deore; or SRAM X5, X4 etc...&#xA;I'm thinking of adding this &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2011/12/use-barend-or-downtube-shifters-for-bike-touring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2011/12/use-barend-or-downtube-shifters-for-bike-touring/&lt;/a&gt; (handlebar and whatever is in it) in my MTB and change shifters and brakes if needed. But I would like to know if those would work with the back and front dereailleur I have already installed. I gave some examples cause I'm yet to buy the MTB with one of those derailleurs :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4917" LastEditorUserId="4917" LastEditDate="2012-08-31T12:12:41.717" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T12:12:41.717" Title="Will an Ultegra bar end shifter work with MTB derailleurs?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11102" CreationDate="2012-08-31T02:42:38.280" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're looking for are called Cross or Interrupter levers (i.e. they interrupt the brake cable housing--the cable passes through them. It is worth noting that in the video the cables protruding from the sides of the brake hoods are shifter cables...the brake cable is routed under the handlebar tape to the cross levers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most setups are designed to work around short pull brakes (cantilevers, side pulls, &amp;amp;tc.). Long pull brakes (linear pull v-brakes, most mechanical disc brakes) require more cable to be pulled per motion of the brake levers, so it is generally not recommended to mix short and long pull components (though some report varying degrees of success).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have cantilever studs on your frame, you can easily find a set of cantilever brakes and a cross/drop lever combination that work well together. For long pull drop levers, there are fewer options (the ones that stick out in my mind are Cane Creek Drop Vs, and Tektro RL520s). For cross levers, there is only one that I've found that has a long pull option: Paul components makes a cross lever which can switch between short and long pull pivot location. (Alternatively, there are a few &quot;mini&quot; v-brakes which are short pull brakes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best option, given the availability of long pull road/cross levers, is to invest in something called a Travel Agent--it mounts to your v-brakes and effectively makes them short pull so that you can use any kind of road brake levers. They cost ~$20 each and are well worth it considering the headache of procuring compatible components or setting up cantilevers for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have mechanical disc brakes (which are generally long pull), you can either invest in long pull levers or switch to the Avid BB-7 Road calipers which are short pull and work quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, pay attention to the diameter of the drop bar you'll be using and the levers you install! Most mountain bars have an OD of 22.2mm where road bars have an OD of 23.8mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T02:42:38.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11103" CreationDate="2012-08-31T03:28:26.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most Shimano components are compatible with the Ultrega and Dura Ace bar end shifters, so long as they are specifically for 8 speed or 9 speed systems (you can use a 9 speed shifter on a 7 or 8 speed cassette, but not the other way around). If you're fussy about indexing, it may take some adjustment, but friction shifting is fast, reliable, and cheap! (If I remember correctly Ultrega and some of the Dura Aces have a friction option, while a few Dura Ace models have only indexing). You will run into issues with 10 speed Shimano bar end shifters, especially with the front derailleurs. (Make sure that the shifter is compatible with triple cranks if you have a triple.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sram mountain derailleurs, however, DO NOT work with most bar end shifters! I've never actually tried it, but I've read in numerous places that they are not compatible (even with Sram bar end shifters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there are numerous other manufacturers of bar end shifters (Rivendell Silver Shifters, for one). Many different mounting options exist, including Paul Thumbies, which allow shifter levers to be mounted on top of the bar, as well as a bracket by IRD for mounting to the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, again, be aware that road handlebars have a larger ID than mountain handlebars. A bar end shifter made for road bars will not fit inside of a mountain-specific bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T03:28:26.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11102" CreationDate="2012-08-31T04:22:54.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in some custom work, you could put a Y-Connector in the lines for hydraulic brakes - assuming of course that you have hydraulic brakes and they make hydraulic road levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T04:22:54.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-31T05:15:36.157" Score="8" ViewCount="6104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know more about the reliability of self-extracting crank bolts, but haven't found much information on how they perform (or how they don't). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vm68i.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Self Extractor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interest stems from touring and international travel, but also from practicality. It seems like a no-brainer to be able to remove your crankarms with a common allen key without having to carry around a separate crank puller (or using riskier emergency removal methods). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond concerns of not being able to remove the extractors themselves (for lack of a pin-spanner), I'd like to know whether these have a history of characteristic failure. I haven't found anything in the way of recommending them or condemning them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that FSA, Sugino, and TA manufacture these gadgets, but are they as good on a bike as they are on paper? Are they simply unnecessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T16:05:36.043" Title="The pros and cons of crank self-extractors" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11090" CreationDate="2012-08-31T08:10:53.280" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a little trick to find out which is strong foot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a regular speed, slam your front brakes. The foot you use to withstand the brake force is your strong foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T08:10:53.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11102" CreationDate="2012-08-31T12:24:04.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canecreek.com/product/drop-v-levers-black-bl4200k/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cane Creek Drop V levers&lt;/a&gt; for the drops. Standard Drop Bar levers have a shorter pull and you'll want ones that are compatible with V brakes longer pull (same issue if you're running MTB Disc brakes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use your existing mtb brake levers for the tops of the bars, and get a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;https://problemsolversbike.com/products/brakes/12_-_8816o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;problem solvers cable doubler 2:1&lt;/a&gt; to split the cables to work with two levers for a single brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a pair of Tektro RL740 cross levers which can pull v-brakes (again, longer pull than for canti/caliper or road disc) and use those instead of your mtb brakes. I'm not sure these are still available from tektro, but i saw a pair on ebay for about $25 USD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow WTHarper's solution and use travel agents with short pull drop bar levers and regular cyclocross interrupter levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2020-05-07T12:36:25.167" LastActivityDate="2020-05-07T12:36:25.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2012-08-31T14:12:05.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some research on this issue and ended up going with a trailer for my two-year old son. We use it for our daily commute to day care and work, and so far it seems comfortable for him, and easy for me to handle. Cars give us plenty of space.&#xA;My one issue is the amount of time it takes me to get the trailer out of its storage shed, lock up the shed,  attach trailer to the bike, and then at day care, detach, lock both etc. I am starting to envy parents with bike seats who show up and get in and out quickly to drop off their kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4921" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T14:12:05.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11101" CreationDate="2012-08-31T14:53:39.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Shimano gear If you are going all 9-speed, you're fine using most STI shifters with 9-speed mountain derailleurs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New 10 spd Dyna-Sys rear derailleurs won't work with 10 spd STI shifters if you're going Shimano.  However, I've heard people have had success using a 9-speed Shimano Deore M592 Shadow Rear Derailleur with 10 speed STI shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See thread on MTBR for a bit more info on someone's successful setup with a Shimano 10 speed road/mountain setup &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-673861.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-673861.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there are any issues if you're going for a SRAM road shifter / mountain derailleur combination if you're going 10 speed and using the XX mountain group which has the same pull ratio as the road groups. It appears that 9 speed mountain gear and some of the other 10 speed mountain group sets, have a slightly different pull ratio and don't play well with road shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-09-01T10:10:54.377" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T10:10:54.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12604" CreationDate="2012-08-31T15:17:30.410" Score="5" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would I be a fool to replace the nipples on a Dura Ace 7900 C24 wheelset with a set of DT Swiss anodised alloy nipples, in the interest of aesthetics? I want the bike to look nice, but don't want to compromise on performance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="452" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T11:38:37.437" Title="How much does nipple choice affect wheel weight/stiffness?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11082" CreationDate="2012-08-31T15:20:23.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All three terms refer to mass participation events that are open to amateur cyclists. They are timed events but they are not races, although some of them are very competitive and there are sometimes prizes on offer for the best times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Etape du Tour is French. Each year two stages from the Tour de France are replicated on closed roads for amateur cyclists to enter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gran Fondos are Italian. They are timed events with one of the best known being the Maratona Dles Dolomites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Century Rides is the term used in the United States. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK and in France they are also called Sportives or Cyclo Sportives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These events are very popular with cyclists and the largest attract thousands of participants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4924" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T15:20:23.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-31T18:38:08.660" Score="8" ViewCount="13433" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bikes with two or three chainrings are the norm, and then there are singlespeeds, but except for kids' bikes, you see almost no stock bikes with a single chainring in front but a cassette and derailleur in the back. It seems like for a lot of people this would be a nice balance with respect to simplicity, weight, maintenance, so why are there so few?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4825" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T04:04:01.783" Title="Why are there almost no bikes with a single chainring?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11114" CreationDate="2012-08-31T19:05:18.027" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect marketing.  More is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; better.  If you were naive to bikes and you saw two &lt;em&gt;derailleur&lt;/em&gt; bikes for $499:  One with 9 gears (1 x 9) or one with 27 gears (3 x 9).  Which do you think they will choose? In western society, more is &lt;em&gt;always and without question&lt;/em&gt; better. The single chainring bike might have better components (due to being simpler at the same price point), but people will fixate on the number of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I have noticed quite a few 8 speed hub internal hub bikes on the market now.  Single chain ring with essentially the same number of gears as a single chainring derailleur bike, but they can do a marketing end run around the issue of number of gears with a different sell, namely the reduced maintenance and simplicity associated with an internal hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aside&lt;/strong&gt; - I will avoid any discussion of whether or not internal hubs are simpler and lower maintenance, just that this is the common &quot;knowledge&quot; about internal hub bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt; well the market forces have swung  and now many high end bikes are switching to 1x (11 to 13 speed cassettes make this feasible), so more 1x are now finding their way to lower end bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2019-09-05T04:04:01.783" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T04:04:01.783" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11114" CreationDate="2012-08-31T19:26:51.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of bikes available with a single chainring. However, only certain types of bicycles come with single chainrings. People generally buy according to their needs, and products are generally offered in accordance with demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two main categories of bikes that often come with a single chainring are comfort/city bikes and track/single-speed bikes. Comfort bikes such as beach cruisers often have coaster brakes, chain guards, and other features to minimize the amount of maintenance required. Track bikes were originally designed for racing at velodromes, but they have developed a broader appeal due to trendiness and low maintenance requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, road bikes and mountain bikes generally have a wide range of gears to allow a wide range of speeds. If they came with only a single chainring, they would not meet the needs of most cyclists, so they wouldn't be bought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, there are plenty of bicycles with single chainrings, and they tend to be bikes that are designed to be low maintenance. Bikes designed for performance usually come with a wide range of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T19:26:51.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11114" CreationDate="2012-08-31T19:33:01.203" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;1x9 setups are more common on a mountain bike or commuter bike setup with rapidfire shifters than a drop bar setup. However, due to a lack of front derailleur they can have chain jump issues due to the effect of the rear derailleur on the chainline.  This has to be compensated for, often with a chain guard on the outer side and jump stop on the inner side of the front chainring. It's also a bit weirder to have 2 STI brifters and only have one of them for shifting on a road / cross bike. Especially when brifters cost a lot of money.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most groupsets come with all the drivetrain and shifting gear for a 2x9 or 2x10 setup. So, they install it on the bikes as a set, It would probably be cost prohibitive for manufacturers to break up the groupset and they would probably have to pay for extra parts (like a chain guard) to make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are however several bikes on the market with a single front chainring and an internally geared rear hub. These bikes don't suffer the downfalls of having to deal with chain jumps as much as bikes with derailleurs since the chainline stays consistent (and hopefully releativly straight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Modern mountain bikes and some cyclocross bikes have been switching to 1x drivetrains as a standard drivetrain option. New technology, clutch rear derailleurs, narrow wide chainrings (there are several variations), and wider range rear cassettes (up to 44t) have made it so you can have a wider gear range and get rid of the extra chain retention gear that you used to need for this setup. SRAM and Shimano both sell 1x drivetrain groupsets and now some frame manufacturers are dropping support for front derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T16:00:32.040" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T16:00:32.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11114" CreationDate="2012-08-31T19:42:13.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wide range of gears on the rear is 11 T to 34 T which lets you vary your mechanical advantage by about &lt;strong&gt;310% on a bike with only a rear derailleur&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front derailleur is (compared to the rear derailleur) a simple piece of equipment that greatly increases your ability to go fast on the flats while climbing comfortably.  Adding a front crankset that goes from 24 T to 52 T lets you vary your mechanical advantage by ((52/11) / (24/34)) or &lt;strong&gt;670% with both derailleurs&lt;/strong&gt; between large-front/small-rear and small-front/large-rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The actual mechanical advantage has to take into account the ratio between the pedal circle circumference and the drive-wheel circumference, but I'm dividing mechanical advantages here so that constant divides out.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes with only a front derailleur aren't made today because they don't pick up the slack in the chain, though I've heard that early model chained bikes were often ridden with slack chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-08-31T20:02:40.897" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T20:02:40.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1677" CreationDate="2012-08-31T20:29:44.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Focus your vision about 15-20 feet away. Don't look down at your front tire, or you will wobble more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other step for beginners... do your first ride on the rollers with flat pedals and tennis shoes, rather than your clip-in pedals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stop and hold onto the doorway when you get a drink of water.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you move out of the doorway, make sure there are no sharp pointy objects on the floor around you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1648" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T20:29:44.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12395" CreationDate="2012-09-01T08:25:57.733" Score="6" ViewCount="5011" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently made aware of the idea of bike rollers.  I do have an exercise bike, but this looks like it may be a much better bet because you get to practice your riding skills as well (and looks a bit more fun than an exercise bike!).  However, the guy in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtR_4B4lcsA&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; had trouble getting a mountain bike to fit, and when he did get it working, it really seemed to be shredding the rear tire quite badly.  If you look closely at the video, when he's using the MTB the front axle is forward of the front roller's axle so it's obviously not properly on the rollers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the rear tire damage the guy in the video was suffering typical of rollers or is it because of a poor fit of the bike on the rollers?  Are there models of rollers that fit long wheelbase bikes better?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that you can't use mountain bikes on rollers, but the reason given was the suspension causes the wheelbase to change as the suspension moves.  My bike is a hardtail with a lockable front fork so would this be suitable for rollers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheelbase is approximately 108cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T21:55:16.813" Title="Rollers for long-wheelbase/mountain bikes" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11126" CreationDate="2012-09-01T09:07:34.417" Score="6" ViewCount="1837" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the Olympics the commentators made a big deal about the need to maintain very specific atmospheric conditions in the velodrome, including having airlocks to enter and exit the building.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They stated that the atmosphere is very warm, and humid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are those precise conditions needed for velodrome events?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is the high temperature lowers the air density and thus lowers wind resistance but that's purely a guess.  I've no idea what the humidity levels would do to help, surely that would increase the air density again! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, with such high temperatures, is there a danger of athletes overheating? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T12:18:07.023" Title="Velodrome atmospheric conditions" Tags="&lt;track-racing&gt;&lt;competition&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11124" CreationDate="2012-09-01T13:21:24.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The equation for total aerodynamic drag force on a bicycle is well-understood and, you're right, air density has a role in it: the higher the density, the greater the drag. As you guessed, density decreases with increasing temperature so warm air is less dense than cold air. It's also probably no surprise that density decreases with pressure. However, evidently counter-intuitively, humid air is less dense than dry air. The simplest explanation is that water molecules contain two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom so they have a molecular mass of 18 g/mol, while dry air has a molecular mass of around 29 g/mol. You can check the wikipedia page on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Density_of_air&quot;&gt;air density&lt;/a&gt; for more details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T13:21:24.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11129" CreationDate="2012-09-01T15:11:14.953" Score="1" ViewCount="28060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently moved, and had to take off the seat to my bike while I moved. I was surprised to find when I arrived and settled that I couldn't find the clamp to my bike seat. I managed to find a new bike seat clamp, but it's not obvious how I'm supposed to install it. What should I do? I've included a photo of my bike seat, without the clamp. Don't be confused by the bike behind it, the black seat post and seat and red body is the one I'm working on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a GT avalanche, unmodified from the store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gc0Yi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="998" LastEditDate="2012-09-01T15:35:11.843" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T20:48:17.433" Title="How do I install a bike seat clamp properly?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;clamp&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11127" CreationDate="2012-09-01T18:44:03.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Figured this one out after a bit of work. If you look from the back side, you will see that there is a gap in the metal. This is to allow compression to clamp the seat tightly. Put the clamp on the frame of the bike, and if there is a quick release, tighten the nut hand tight. Then put the seat at the right level, facing the right direction, and close the quick release. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there isn't a quick release, tighten the nut hand tight, put the seat in place, and tighten it the rest of the way using the correct tool to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T18:44:03.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11127" CreationDate="2012-09-01T20:48:17.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Position the clamp so that the open section of the clamp is oriented to the slot in the frame. If the frame slot faces the rear the opening in the clamp should also face the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T20:48:17.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="827" CreationDate="2012-09-02T03:33:19.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One significant choice point, which I think deserves its own answer, is the choice between &quot;walkable&quot; or non-walkable shoes/cleats.  Some cleats (eg, SPD) are fairly compact, and with the right shoes (&quot;mountain biking&quot; or &quot;touring&quot; shoes with lugs and a depression to accept the cleat) it's reasonably (if not incredibly comfortable) to walk a moderate distance with the shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other cleats (eg, SPD-SL) are larger and cannot practically be installed on shoes in a way to permit walking any distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T03:33:19.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-02T08:49:24.943" Score="3" ViewCount="2780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced my front cogs and back sprockets with new ones (I didn't use a torque tool or replace the chain). I also replaced the sealed bearing bottom bracket on my pedals. The old bearings were 115 mm long and the new one is 117,5 mm long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I feel some sort of vibration, and there is a noise like the gear wants to change, but the rear derailleur is set correctly with one click per gear. What can cause vibration and noise from the chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4935" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-09-03T06:59:30.960" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T08:33:36.547" Title="What can cause vibration and noise from the chain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11136" CreationDate="2012-09-02T10:49:21.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was the reason for the gear change because they were worn? If they were worn the chain most likely is also worn unless it was changed recently. The general rule with chains is to replace it when the cassette is changed. As the chain wears it gets longer and won't match your cassette. Your old chain wore as the old cassette wore so they matched. Slide the chain off the crank and spin it by hand just to verify that it spins easily, this will rule out a bad bearing (sometimes new isn't perfect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T10:49:21.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11136" CreationDate="2012-09-02T12:07:59.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you changed the crank length then the front derailer likely needs to be adjusted, and the rear may need a few tweaks.  Also, when you change the rear cluster there can be a difference of a mm or two between old cluster and new, requiring adjustment of the rear derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you readjusted both derailers &quot;by the book&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Whether or not you used a torque wrench would have little bearing on this issue, though you need to be sure to check that your crank bolts are tight every 200km or so for the next 1000km.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T12:07:59.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11144" CreationDate="2012-09-02T20:50:32.580" Score="4" ViewCount="12484" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently had a bike donated to me by a friend so I can start commuting to work. It's a hybrid style bike, and uses 700x32C tyres. My ride to work is along a pretty bumpy, muddy canal path and my feeling is that the tyres currently on the bike are a bit too narrow for the terrain. I'm very new to cycling, and particular bike maintenance, so this might be a dumb question, but can I replace the wheels on the bike with something wider? If so, what measurements should I take from the bike to make sure I get something that fits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4899" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T01:57:18.153" Title="Putting wider wheels on a hybrid bike" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2012-09-02T21:37:23.933" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched to a recumbent about 10 years ago in 2002, when I was 48.  I rented one for a ride and was so impressed with the comfort and speed that I eventually changed over.  My current rig has a full fairing and full-length spandex wrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arguments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - Cost.  I waited over 2 years to buy due to the cost, then started out with a $900 bike (which I soon traded in for a $2,000 TourEasy, which ran up to $3,000 with fairing, lights, etc.).  Many friends and family considered me crazy, but I live in an area where I can get almost everywhere by bike.  In 2007, I spent less than $100 on gasoline.  Since then I've been averaging 500-750 miles each year in my auto and 5,000 to 6,000 miles on my bike).  For my situation, the cost was high, but the savings have been much higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - Comfort.  No contest.  There's a reason furniture does not use diamond-frame bicycle posture.  No crotch numbness, neck issues, etc.  These discomforts did not bother me before 45, but the comfort factor (for me) seems to be a bigger factor every year.  The fairing and wrap offer even more comfort when the weather turns extreme--usually a light jacket and tights is sufficient, even in single-digit temperatures; and the shade compensates for less wind in the heat (plus no need  for sunscreen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 - Performance.  I can blast up a hill like a parachute in water--the best I can say for uphill riding on a recumbent is that maybe it builds character.  Downhills and flats, though, are great--the fairing aerodynamics help.  Speeds (note, I'm almost 60 years old, diabetic, and had a triple bypass a couple of years ago, so these speed won't be impressive):  Sustained on a flat - 25-30 mph; steep downhill with a tailwind - 50-60 mph;  steep uphill - no comment (thank God for low gears!).  Much wider turning radius.  No flipping over the handlebars, though, on hard stops.  Another performance feature relates to comfort--I can ride for hours and hours and hours, and rides over 100 miles makes me tired and my legs sore the next day, but no discomfort in my butt, back, neck, or other parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 - Dork factor.  I don't care (see number 2 and 3 above).  However, reactions seem to be pronounced.  Young kids say &quot;Oooooh!  Cool!&quot;  Older kids divide between &quot;What the #$%#$ is that?&quot; and &quot;I want one!&quot;  I get tons of questions.  I get noticed--so I try to obey all the traffic signs/signals and be considerate, which is not necessarily how I rode before.  It also gets noticed when parked, sometimes attracting thieves and vandals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 - Safety.  Bikes are dangerous around cars.  Car drivers just aren't looking for us and don't see us--and often don't bear any blame when they run us down.  To mitigate this, I use bright lights, brightly colored wraps, and a motorcycle helmet (allowed by the upright posture)--and avoid as much car traffic as I can.  So far, so good (I was hit 3 times on my DF [Diamond Frame bike]).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 - Accommodation.  A definite minus.  Normal bike racks, bike carriers, bus racks, etc. usually won't work.  Much longer and heavier than my DF was.  No carrying it over my head through crowds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every person will have different priorities.  You have to try one to know if it's for you or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-12-25T21:25:09.940" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T21:25:09.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-02T23:41:48.443" Score="7" ViewCount="9178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a 5 year old commuter bike with a Shimano Nexus 8 internal hub gear, that's done about 20,000km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I'm imagining it, but it seems like my bike has lost a considerable amount of mechanical efficiency recently. I now seem to be the slowest bike on the road; everybody passes me and I never overtake anyone, despite keeping the types pumped and the chain lubed. I don't ride any other bike, so it's hard to benchmark, but it feels like the hub slips a little inside as it operates, compared to the feel of a derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engagement and changes is still 100% reliable in all 8 gears however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a known problem with ageing hub gears? Has anyone had this kind of experience before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T22:32:24.803" Title="Do Shimano Nexus hubs lose efficiency as they get older?" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11139" CreationDate="2012-09-03T01:57:18.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frame clearance can be a problem, especially if the mud is sticky and the tire too close - it can clog up quite badly if you go too wide. If you have V brakes, these can also, however my experience has been worst case is new brake pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;29&quot; Mountain bike tires are 700C. (As Always - &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt; has the answer), so you now have a wide range of tires to choose from. The web page also has a great chart for tire width vs Rim Width compatibility. With a bit of luck you will not need new rims, just tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, take the bike to the guys at the LBS and have a chat with them. They will put you right on local conditions and will hopefully know the route you are riding and give good suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T01:57:18.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2012-09-03T08:04:27.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a similar bicycle style that's affordable, I'd recommend the Echo Trials bikes. They make 20&quot;, 24&quot; and 26&quot; versions, and are sold for less than $1000 with hydraulic disc front brakes and hydraulic rim rear brakes (the same setup that Danny has). Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm/422624924-ECHO-24-Trials-Bike-in-stock-wholesalers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; and a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.tartybikes.co.uk/images/custom/bikes24/large_echotrial.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Echo 24 Trials Bicycle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They aren't exactly what he's riding, but they are at least somewhat comparable in components and setup, and these are affordable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.307" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T08:04:27.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-03T09:06:28.937" Score="6" ViewCount="25304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding my bike for a while it's a 55cm square frame. I recently used the online calculator on competitive cyclist. It told me I'd need a seat tube of 53 and top tube of 57cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm riding a bike essentially too small for me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a massive amount out, so I'm sure I can tweak things for the correct position. Layback seatpost, slamming the stem etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--But what is the natural position on the bike to ensure no stresses on the back or wrists?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--What are the signs that something is too small?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T18:41:53.877" Title="Correct riding position on a road bike" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11157" CreationDate="2012-09-03T09:32:28.610" Score="3" ViewCount="2757" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have older Campagnolo Chorus 10-speed shifters. They are marked 'Carbon BB System'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am replacing my front derailleur and have a spare 10-speed Record QS front derailleur. QS stands for Quick Shift. I understand that the QS system changes the ratio that operates the derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will an older non-QS lever work with a QS front derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4943" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-09-20T04:49:05.353" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T23:22:38.117" Title="Campagnolo QS Front Derailleur/Shifter Compatability" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11146" CreationDate="2012-09-03T10:29:20.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This video may help you - &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/FAl_5e7bIHk?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly made me more comfortable on my road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comfort is rule #1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the seat height so that the knee makes a 10 or 20 degree angle at maximum extension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the seat forward and back so that, when your foot is forward, your knee is above the pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the handle bars so that your back is at 45 degrees, and the bars obscure your view of the front axle (or higher for more comfort, or lower for better aerodynamics)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handle bars as wide as the shoulders (or wider for a more open diaphragm, or narrower for better aerodynamics)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust cleats so they're under the ball of the foot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4945" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-09-21T00:42:56.420" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T00:42:56.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11141" CreationDate="2012-09-03T10:45:17.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is 5 years old and you have been going 20k kilometers I think it would be fair to buy a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hub can not loose efficiency, but the bearings can become sluggish, also the bearings in the wheels would be a good idea to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a racingbike and i change my chain every year and whenever i feel the bearings is slower I also change them, and that way more often that every 5 year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4946" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T10:45:17.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2012-09-03T11:58:55.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I have been riding our son around in an iBert front mounted seat since he was able to hold his head up with a helmet on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ibertinc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ibertinc.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seat mounts on the handlebar stem and is easy to get on and off. It mounts on the handlebar stem, which can scratch the bike's paint...so i wrapped a piece of an old innertube around the stem before mounting it.  Once mounted, it is not super rigid, and can move around a bit, but it is impossible for it to come off. At first, I was worried about the movement of the seat, but it ultimately served as a shock absorber.  If I remove the inner tube, the seat is more rigid...but after testing I decided to keep the inner tube in place. I also put a swim noodle piece I cut around the seat stem to add a tighter fit.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being that the seat mounts in the front, it is a lot of fun for our son because he gets to see everything very clearly, as well as put his hands on the handle bars, just like mom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GOOD:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;front mount provides lots of stability and ease of control&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;best visibility for the toddler&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy on and off, but near impossible to fall off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy in and out, my wife puts our son in and goes for rides on her own&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is fun for toddlers to be up front and pretend to stear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very light weight, which makes for easy balance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BAD&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it is a bit wobbly, but sturdy. I was worried at first, but it has turned out to be a non-issue&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;not really a &quot;BAD,&quot; but this seat will only be useable for a short while as it is intended for toddlers...although I can see it lating into our son's third year and he is in the 105% for height. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;there is not back head support, which is problematic when our son falls asleep on rides; we have to hold his head up until we get home.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I recommend this seat, and would but it again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4948" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T11:58:55.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4721" CreationDate="2012-09-03T15:30:09.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought the same shoe (R3) and can tell you the fit is &quot;spot on&quot;.  They provide a US size on the box and it's very accurate.  Many shoes, like &quot;skate shoes &#xA;&quot; employ Vanity size techniques such as a 12 is really an 11 so the kids think they have bigger feet and Converse Chucks run a size larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4950" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T15:30:09.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2012-09-03T16:40:05.467" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Markijbema's comment on the original question touched on one aspect that nobody has mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;A seat is easier to combine with a typical dutch bike, which is less race-y than the crazy bikes people in other countries seem to use for daily use&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The construction and design of the bicycle determines how well it handles a load, either over the rear wheel, front wheel, or distributed evenly (in this case a 20-40 pound child). I'd like to compare three bicycles of roughly the same price point and frame/wheel size (~560mm, all measurements in mm or degrees). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bikes: A) Surly Long Haul Trucker--700c, heavy duty touring, B) GT Zaskar Sport--29&quot;, hardtail mountain bike, C) Specialized Allez Comp--700c, speedy road bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;((I couldn't find any geometry details on Dutch-style cruisers, but I feel that they will be more in line with the Long Haul Trucker.))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chainstay length affects whether your heels hit your pannier bags and the size of tire you can ride. (A) 460, B) 445, C) 405)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The wheelbase affects handling. A longer wheelbase generally increases stability. (A) 1056, B) 1110, C) 986)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;BB Drop determines BB Height as well as the length of the stays and down tube, affecting the overall flexibility of the bike, as short tubes are stiffer and more responsive. (A) 78, B) 65, C) 69)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fork rake influences steering stability. Larger rake offset means more stable steering. (A) 45, B) 39, C) 45) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Head tube angle influences steering response in concert with fork rake. (A) 72, B) 72, C) 73.5)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each bike has its virtues, but not all bikes are designed to carry a load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the Allez is a fast and nimble road bike, it would feel twitchy and harsh with a child in a seat. There is no provision for mounting such a rack to this bike and frame clearance allows for 28c tires maximum, increasing the likelihood of a flat (also, this wouldn't be a fun ride for the kid!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes like the Zaskar are becoming common for general riding. They're reasonably comfortable, have quick handling, and allow for large cushy tires. Like the Allez, however, that quick steering response is not a good feature when hauling anything. Also like the Allez, there are no provisions for mounting racks. With a high bottom bracket and cushy tires, your seat will be much higher and, consequently, you won't be able to put a foot down without dismounting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensible choice would be the Long Haul Trucker, but of course it was designed for just such a load. It accommodates cushy tires, fenders, lots of racks, and a good deal of weight. It isn't as nimble as the Allez and can't ride over fallen trees, but it is very good at moving things around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to choosing between a trailer and a mounted seat for hauling your kids around,  not all bikes are equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T16:40:05.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11074" CreationDate="2012-09-03T18:09:33.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Daniel R Hicks- go for a &quot;Bob&quot; trailer style- especially given the distances you're indicating you want to travel.  On the coast, there's always a breeze- and a surfboard turned broadside to the wind will turn your bike into a sail-a-bike and your 150km into what feels like 150,000km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd hit some pawn shops or yard sales and look for one of those aluminum kid-trailers that clips to your rear frame.  You can disassemble the kid-carrying part and have a nice, low frame to strap not only your surfboard but other items you'll need for a trip that long as well.  The extra length of a trailer may not seem ideal to you at first, but I think after your first windy day to the beach, you'll appreciate the low-profile nature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the type of trailer I'm talking about: &lt;a href=&quot;http://compare.ebay.com/like/230660800807?var=lv&amp;amp;ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&amp;amp;var=sbar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://compare.ebay.com/like/230660800807?var=lv&amp;amp;ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&amp;amp;var=sbar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4951" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T18:09:33.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11141" CreationDate="2012-09-03T19:24:04.913" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 5 years have you had the hub rebuilt / repacked with grease? The maintenance schedule for the Nexus 8 speed is every 5000 km or 2 years, which ever comes first (I believe).  If you have not had any maintenance in your 5 years this is likely the culprit for decreased performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20,000 km should be no problem for a properly maintained hub; however, if you have gone without maintenance there is a chance you have started damaging the internals though intrusion of dirt and water. I would hesitate to speculate what may be going wrong (perhaps the roller clutch), but there are quite a few parts that all require proper lubrication. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, I would take it to a certified Shimano dealer to have a look over.  They can tell you if the hub is still viable hub, and if so, what maintenance needs to be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested to learn more about the internal workings of your nexus hub, may I suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/nexus-mech.html&quot;&gt;starting here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2012-09-03T22:32:24.803" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T22:32:24.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11189" CreationDate="2012-09-03T19:51:38.607" Score="19" ViewCount="1636" Body="&lt;p&gt;My interest is in long distance commuting (e.g. more than 50 km a day) and the relative efficiencies of different commute bike setups (e.g. drop bars vs flat bars, fenders vs no fenders, panniers vs backpack, etc).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, does anyone know if this type of information has been pulled together (e.g. magazine article, web page)?  I am looking for hard hard numbers (e.g. wattage or relative difference in wattage) that document real world differences associated with how one sets up their commute bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why I even care&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year I had my commute bike stole. When I replaced it, I kept most of the build identical (e.g. drop bars, 2x racks, fenders, dynamo hub, disc brakes), except I also moved to an internal hub. When commuting distances, I notice this bike is slower.  On the top end I think I lose anywhere from 5 - 10 km/hr.  This bothered me so much I ended up building another commute bike, but went in the complete opposite direction (classic steel road, with low profile fenders and one low profile rack).  This second bike is so much faster I typically use it on club rides and put the carbon crew to shame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there is no question the second bike is more efficient (32 vs 42 km/hr top flatland cruising speed), the builds are also night and day apart so I am racking my brain to point the finger at the main culprits behind this efficiency difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Crazy Plan&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this type of info isn't out there, I would like to run a series of experiments to understand the differences.  I would have a designated time trial, record the power needed to cruise at a given set of speeds.  I would then slowly strip the bikes down and repeat.  The hope would be to determine the relative differences in efficiency different build decisions produce and by extension how much time difference there would be in a 50 km ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However before I start this, I would want to make sure this type of experiment hasn't been done before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt; - There may be scepticism over how 'doable' this type of experiment is.  If the type of information I am looking for doesn't already exist and there is sufficient interest, I  am willing to draft up my planned methodology and post online for review (perhaps at a different and more appropriate venue).  I do have expertise in both statistics and experimental design so I believe I would be up to the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2012-09-04T00:02:21.947" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T15:49:02.393" Title="Relative efficiency of different commute bike setups" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11147" CreationDate="2012-09-04T03:25:23.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short the answer is Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the installation &amp;amp; maintenance manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The new QS Ergopower controls provide for fast operation and a lower shifting force if used with the new QS front derailleurs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The QS Ergopower controls and the QS front derailleurs can also be used with non-QS Ergopower controls and front derailleurs.  However in this case please note that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;QS Ergopower controls with non-QS front derailleurs could require a higher force to effect shifting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Non-QS Ergopower controls with QS front derailleurs will require at least two lever movements to effect shifting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4943" LastEditorUserId="4943" LastEditDate="2012-09-04T03:41:33.233" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T03:41:33.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2012-09-04T03:34:43.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Washington DC&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WMATA buses have a bike rack on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4952" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T03:34:43.037" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-09-04T03:34:43.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11161" CreationDate="2012-09-04T03:53:42.140" Score="12" ViewCount="8154" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've been poring over the bikes SE, and as a recreational biker and an automobile commuter, I'm naturally most interested in topics addressing how bikes interact with automotive traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1774/3311&quot;&gt;one particular question&lt;/a&gt; I noticed that it's legal in some jurisdictions for a biker to pass cars on the right at an intersection in order to move ahead of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This really surprised me, and it brought up a related question: is it legal to pass a car on the right when that car is making a right turn?? (In other words, a bike passing a car in such a way that if both maintain their intended path, they would collide.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That may sound like a stupid question, but I have actually seen this twice in the last year. In one instance, I was the driver and I could see the bike approaching from behind at a distance. As I slowed to make my right turn, I glanced back at him and I could see that he was not slowing down. I slammed on the brakes and narrowly missed him as he whizzed by me on the right. I was in the right turn lane, he was originally directly behind me in the same lane, and there is no bike lane on that street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an earlier incident, I was walking my dog when I saw a car and bike collide under nearly identical circumstances. The biker was not injured badly but he did wipe out. I found myself sympathizing with the driver more than the biker. The driver was obviously not prepared for somebody to pass her on the right at 15MPH while she was making a right hand turn from the right lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was his bike maneuver legal? Does the driver owe a biker that right of way? And if a driver hits a biker in this scenario, is the driver legally liable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4952" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T21:03:47.113" Title="Is it legal to pass a car on the right when that car is turning?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11164" CreationDate="2012-09-04T09:21:13.773" Score="12" ViewCount="27855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Centurion Cyclo Cross 4000 bike. Recently I got into an accident with a car door. As a result I have a significant dent on my frame(see the photos below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to repair the frame? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it safe to ride the bike after this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PswN4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrPjo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4757" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T04:02:05.173" Title="Is it possible to repair a dent on an aluminium frame?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11159" CreationDate="2012-09-04T09:22:20.543" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it legal? That depends on the country's traffic laws and on the exact layout of the intersection. The traffic laws that I am familiar with (Denmark, Austria) indicate that the bicyclist you describe was wrong to overtake a right-turning car on the car's right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If there is a bike lane that extends through the intersection,&lt;/strong&gt; then AFAIK the cyclist always has right of way. The car must wait until it can turn without blocking any bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If there is a bike lane that stops before the intersection,&lt;/strong&gt; or &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;if there is no bike lane&lt;/strong&gt; then the cyclist must place himself in the proper traffic lane. If he wants to go straight, he may not be in the right-turn lane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As a driver,&lt;/strong&gt; what I usually do coming to a stop at an intersection is to place my car so close to the curb that no bikes can pass on that side. Safety benefits:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If they want to go straight, they can safely overtake me on my left side.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If they want to turn right too, they must line up behind me and turn after I have turned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As a cyclist,&lt;/strong&gt; I &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; operate under the assumption that I am invisible, because too many drivers neglect to look for bicycle traffic. (They often neglect to check for &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; traffic, but that's irrelevant on this site.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The above presumes right-hand driving.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="275" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T09:22:20.543" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11163" CreationDate="2012-09-04T10:15:12.287" Score="22" ViewCount="948" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Araya GP-710 rims have a sticker that says 'safety dot' with arrows that point to little dimples in the rim -what are they for ? Dimple not visible in pic, but are on the rim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IZ2WZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3764" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T10:35:38.437" Title="'safety dot' on rims" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11162" CreationDate="2012-09-04T10:35:38.437" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As long as you can see the dimple, the rim is still thick enough.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you brake, the rim gets worn. Eventually it is worn so thin that it can break. The dimples help you identify the wear so that you can replace the rim before it breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="275" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T10:35:38.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11160" CreationDate="2012-09-04T11:19:44.023" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the near term it's reasonably safe -- the dent is not sufficiently deep to seriously weaken the tube (though one does need to be concerned about the integrity of the welds on the rest of the bike, given it's been in an accident).  In the far term (10s of thousands of miles) there's danger that the tube will fatigue and become weakened at the dent.  (The thing to watch out for is growing cracks in the paint around the dent, or at frame joints, though some paints will hide cracks more than others.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to repair, about the only thing I can think of is to have an experienced frame builder cut out the section and weld in a new one, or fashion some sort of sleeve over the dent.  But those solutions would also be subject to long-term fatigue issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T11:19:44.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-04T12:07:58.657" Score="6" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a ~2 mile/~20min cycle to work and currently take a rucksack with me that generally only contains my food for the day in a standard take-away container measuring about 17cm x 12cm x 4cm give or take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I end up with a sweaty back in the morning which is a little annoying; so I'm wondering if there are any good saddle bags or similar that I could fit my food container, wallet and phone in (so something with a depth of maybe 10cm) to relieve the issue of sweaty back.  Does anyone have any good recommendations because at the moment my rucksack seems a little like overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3227" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-09-05T03:48:11.420" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:31:02.563" Title="Saddle bag for food container" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11159" CreationDate="2012-09-04T12:12:20.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is UK-based, but I'll using inside/near-side to mean &lt;em&gt;left&lt;/em&gt; in a country where you drive on the left, and &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; in a country where you drive on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under UK law, unless you're trying to get a conviction for dangerous or careless driving, it's more useful to consider the civil system. There's plenty of case law here (particularly for motorbikes), and the liability often seems to be split based on whether the (motor) cyclist could reasonably forsee a risk, whether their speed was reasonable for the conditions and visibility, etc. I can dig out references for this stuff if you're interested in the details (IANAL, though - this is just advice I've received from others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upshot is, as a cyclist, that if you ride defensively you should avoid most collisions you could have forseen, and the other party would be more - or wholly - liable for any collision you couldn't reasonably have anticipated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as for riding defensively in the first place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if there is a near-side marked bike lane, the cyclist would have right-of-way unless there's an explicit give way marking, just as if the motorist were turning across another lane of traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;even where the cyclist has the legal right of way, it's sensible to be cautious where vehicles might reasonably turn across you (even if they're not indicating), and it's obviously stupid to make progress on the inside of a vehicle which &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; indicating to turn across you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if a vehicle stops in the inside lane at or before a junction and isn't indicating, they could be turning and just not bothering to signal, or they could be allowing an oncoming vehicle to turn across them&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in the latter case, they likely won't check their mirror to see whether they're encouraging the other vehicle to breach a cyclist's right of way, and they'll often be positioned so neither a cyclist on the inside, nor the vehicle turning across them, can see each other. Slow right down, or change road position to improve your visibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if there is no marked lane, you're &quot;making progress&quot; at your own risk, which means the onus is on you to avoid any accident or collision you could reasonably forsee. Since you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; reasonably forsee lots of events you won't &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; forsee unless you're constantly thinking and observing, you need to be alert to do this safely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T12:12:20.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11165" CreationDate="2012-09-04T12:45:08.223" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you need something like a handlebar bag or a rack trunk like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/825300/novara-rack-trunk&quot;&gt;rack trunk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebagshop.com/banjo-brothers-quick-release-handlebar-bag-p-2639.html?gdftrk=gdfV22203_a_7c1316_a_7c8343_a_7c2639&amp;amp;gclid=CKrt_rX5m7ICFUG8KgodlF0Aaw&quot;&gt;handlebar bag&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rack trunk would require adding either a seatpost mounted rack or a full rear rack. Either one would allow you to move to panniers in the future if you needed to carry more goods like a laptop or a change of clothes, but a full rack would be able to handle more weight and is generally recommended for stability and versatility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handlebar bag may or may not require a front rack, depending on how big it is. Some come with enough of a mount that you don't need anything additional to support the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T12:45:08.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11159" CreationDate="2012-09-04T12:51:33.647" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It almost doesn't matter if it is &quot;legal&quot; or not. The real issue here is avoiding a right-hook accident.  The sad truth is that no amount of law will make motorists look where they're not expecting to see a cyclist. And if there is a law that favors the cyclist, whether or not that law is actually enforced is utterly iffy. In other words even if it is &quot;legal&quot; passing a right-turning vehicle on the right is an extremely bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional right-hook accident is best avoided by the cyclist's decisions and actions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, latest bike lane markings have been addressing this issue by re-directing the bike lane into the center of the right lane (or between the turning lane and straight-through lane, or even converting into a sharrow at the intersection). This is the correct path to take and the markings make it clear to both motorists and cyclists what is expected.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case where there are no clear markings or where they are just wrong, cyclists need to act in a vehicular way and hog the lane. Understandably this might be hard to do for many novice cyclists who often feel timid about mixing-it-up with cars, but that simple decision will protect them far better than any flimsy &quot;right-hook&quot; law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2012-09-04T13:13:53.307" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T13:13:53.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11165" CreationDate="2012-09-04T12:55:55.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The suggestions by @Tha Riddla are great ones. If you opt for a full rear rack you may also want to consider just going with a single pannier bag. Look for a smaller one similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/PanniersBagsRacks/PRD~5026-254/mec-pf-12-cycling-pannier.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. The advantage is that you will have a little extra space when you need it, possibly for tools or when you need to stop by the store on the way home from work. The weight will be uneven, but I haven't really found that it impedes my riding, and even seems to be of minimal inconvenience when stopped. I've even carried home those 4 L milk bags without problems. You also might be able to get away with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/PanniersBagsRacks/PRD~5026-248/mec-bicycle-frame-bag.jsp?pdtTab=2#reviews&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;frame bag&lt;/a&gt; but I would think that it would probably be too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was also able to find this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.banjobrothers.com/products/seat-bags/waterproof-saddle-trunk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;saddle trunk&lt;/a&gt; which seems like it might fit your needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-24T21:31:02.563" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:31:02.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2012-09-04T13:12:25.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ottawa, Ontario, Canada&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ottawa has what they refer to as their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.octranspo1.com/routes/rack_roll/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rack and roll&lt;/a&gt; programme.  Most major cross-city routes have racks.  They also let you take your bike on the O-Train. In my experience it's often common to see buses without racks when they should have them, although I haven't consistently used them for a few years so things may have gotten better. It is common for the bike racks to be full during rush hour if you get on too far into the route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T13:12:25.880" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-09-04T13:12:25.880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9940" CreationDate="2012-09-05T05:38:58.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 19 of the manual states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Trip Computer displays your current speed, average speed, maximum speed, trip odometer, and other helpful statistics. Touch a field to change what is shown in that field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've touched each field and remaining route distance is not an option, then I think it's safe to say that including this information on the dashboard is not possible. That said, the compass mode and possibly the navigation mode seem to be able to include this information, though they may leave off other data that you care about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T05:38:58.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2012-09-05T13:59:12.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Norway&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Oslo Area&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#Ruter &lt;a href=&quot;http://ruter.no/no/verdt-a-vite/kollektivreisen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;allows you to bring a bike on the bus&lt;/a&gt; as long as it isn't troubling other passengers. Most busses have room for strollers, wheelchairs and bikes.You have to pay a child ticket for the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe most public transport companies in Norway follow the same practice. I even brought &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.tradebit.org/usr/cathy19890614/pub/9002/173603954_q1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a moped&lt;/a&gt; on the bus a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bergen&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take a bike on buses in area around Bergen, for half the price of an adult ticket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T21:17:27.817" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-09-05T13:59:12.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11181" CreationDate="2012-09-05T15:09:28.820" Score="3" ViewCount="1536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Fuji CCR3 with a triple in front, 9-speed casette in back.  It came with a Shimano 105 5600 derailleur, but no local shops stock those.  I've also been told that the 5600/5700 are 10-speed derailleurs and shouldn't be used on 9-speeds (though they can, they just don't work very smoothly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what should I replace my (broken) derailleur with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3007" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T19:50:48.250" Title="What can be used to replace a Shimano 105 5600 long-cage derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-05T18:53:47.393" Score="40" ViewCount="212447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/products/221897021/bike-speedster-s30-cd20-s52/&quot;&gt;Scott Speedster S30&lt;/a&gt; (This is my first road bike) and I'm looking at the size chart. I'm around 177 cm tall, and this fits exactly in between the M and L section. Just wondering, in general, is it better to choose the bigger or smaller option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4964" LastEditorUserId="3124" LastEditDate="2012-09-05T19:38:52.490" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T23:37:18.063" Title="Is it better to have a slightly big or slightly small bike?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2012-09-05T19:10:05.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a road bike its probably a toss up. Seats can be raised or lowered. Stems can be brought in or out. As long as the standover is comfortable, you should be fine on the large. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T19:10:05.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11178" CreationDate="2012-09-05T19:50:48.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your gearing you might be able to use the fairly widely available &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/tiagra/product.-code-RD-4500-GS.-type-.rd_road.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;shimano.com&quot;&gt;RD-4500-GS&lt;/a&gt;.  I personally haven't seen a ton of difference between 105 and Tiagra components.  The sora derailleur is also available in a 9 speed configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T19:50:48.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2012-09-05T19:59:44.863" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is your first bike, go to your local bike store and have them fit you professionally. Then, ask if they have loaner bikes so that you can get a feel for the size of the bike before you invest. Some people prefer bikes on the smaller side and some prefer them a bit larger. You'll get a definite feel for this over time, but I wouldn't recommend learning this by purchasing an uncomfortable bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, for example, generally ride a 56cm road bike. However, I once rode a 56cm Surly Long Haul Trucker that felt too large. Some of that feeling was the components (stem length, in particular), and some of it was the frame geometry. Road bikes are built with a variety of geometries catered to every style of riding. Each bike is as different as each respective cyclist, but riding an uncomfortable bike will ruin riding for you. Your LBS will be able to help a great deal in picking a size and adjusting everything to fit you correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of people ask for definite answers based on their exact leg/inseam/PBH/height-leg-ratio-distance-whatever...but most of it will come down to what fits comfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T19:59:44.863" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12928" CreationDate="2012-09-05T21:20:17.257" Score="6" ViewCount="3854" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using tubeless tires with great success on my mountain bike for a year or so, and the time is here to replace the wheels on my cross bike.  I was thinking of getting another pair of stan's rims (the Alpha 400 seems best suited for cross).  A little background on my riding - I use the cross bike for road/trail commuting, CX racing and general recreation.  I would guess that 30-35% of its' miles are off road, and a good bit of this is on rocky/rooty singletrack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bigger guy also so when I flat it is typically a pinchflat.  The idea of a more flat-free commute has great appeal to me.  I'd assume the ability to run lower pressures would help a lot for the singletrack riding and the sloppier races as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do tubeless tires offer significant benefits for a cyclocross bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is that I've heard horror stories about conversion kits on road wheels (most centered around the dreaded &quot;burp&quot;). Does a tubeless specific rim eliminate this? I'd assume that it does, but that opinion is largely formed by my experience with the stan's mountain bike rims.  I'd love to hear from anyone who has actually ridden a cross bike with tubeless tires and/or rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-08-21T17:41:02.977" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T17:41:02.977" Title="Do tubeless tires offer significant benefits for a cyclocross bike?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9481" CreationDate="2012-09-05T21:20:48.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hitch is not designed to take the kind of forces that 6 bikes can produce. A trailer sits on the ball and cannot twist the hitch, a rack adds twisting forces in all directions. The end result (I have a mate who manages a bike shop) can be pretty expensive - like the guys who's hitch (with 4 bikes on the rack) failed while being followed by a 30 ton B-Train. Luckily for him the remaining scrap metal only damaged one truck tire - you would think the cost of replacing the bikes was all you need you worry about..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do, you need to strap the top of the rack to the roof of the car, and strap the rack and bikes to limit the twisting forces in the hitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The addition of 6 bikes on the back of the vehicle will also upset the balance. Most cars have a ball weight limit - some as low as 60kg, few above 100kg. I imagine your van is on the higher end of the scale, but 6 heavy mountain bikes + rack will be close to 100kg. (if you are US/UK and think pounds, thats 130lb - 220lb). You may find you are overloading the hitch and voiding warranty / breaking laws / voiding insurance &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a reason most manufacturers stop at 4. Above 2, they almost always recommend/require straps and heavy duty hitches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T21:20:48.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11187" CreationDate="2012-09-05T23:33:23.763" Score="4" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to adjust gears, and being my first time, I ended up damaging the cable. I mean that I &quot;smashed&quot; it, the threads became apart, and it was dangerous to deal with it. I replaced the cable, but I would like to avoid the problem in the future. Is there any trick, apart from being careful? I'm thinking something like coating the cable with a bit of glue. Is it ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T23:45:29.600" Title="What tricks do you use to avoid damaging cables when adjusting the gears?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11186" CreationDate="2012-09-05T23:45:29.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put the cable in, find a length that's 'approximate enough', and crimp the cable end onto the cable before I clamp it into the derailleur. This will prevent the end from fraying, like you say, and becoming difficult to deal with. It will get flattened under the derailleur clamp, but this can't be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't crimp the end in first (or leaving it long is another way, but it doesn't always work), then you will have to deal with the frayed cable and sometimes need to wind it back together to get it into the cable end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T23:45:29.600" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11156" CreationDate="2012-09-06T01:06:06.040" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jan Heine performed some wind tunnel tests of &quot;Real World Aerodynamics&quot; a few years ago. A link to a blog post (and the results published in Bicycle Quarterly) can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/05/02/aerodynamics-of-real-world-bicycles/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Those tests cover only one component (the aero drag component) of commuter-type bicycles vs. &quot;racing&quot; bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make your own apples-to-apples comparisons of performance potential between any number of bikes of any type there are five pieces of information you need to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much power you produce on that particular bike;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much (you and) the bike weighs;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Crr for that bike;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your CdA on that bike; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much of your power is lost in the drivetrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those five bits of information you can compare the performance of a road racer to a TT bike to a penny farthing to a velomobile to a MTB; on a hill, on the flat, on a descent, on a velodrome. Of course, those five variables won't tell you if the bike fits, or if it handles well, or if it has a way to carry your groceries and laptop and change of clothing, but as far as performance goes, that's all you need to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good bathroom scale will help you measure 2). Since you have a power meter, there are field test methods and protocols that will help you determine 3) and 4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) explores whether you can produce more power on one bike than another, because of positioning (for example, many riders find they produce lower power in a TT position than in a traditional road racing position) or crank length or gearing (for example, some riders find they produce less power on a single-speed than on a multi-geared bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, 5) measures losses in the drive train, such as in a fixed-gear or with an internally-geared hub like the Alfine. In general, measuring losses in the drive train can be expensive because you need a way to measure power at each end of the drive train. See Kyle and Berto &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp52-2001.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, for an example of a rig used to measure losses. A similar rig was used by Spicer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. However, if you have a crank-based power meter (and, if you're using an Alfine then I suspect you must), it is possible to use the crank-based power meter to measure power at one end of the drive train and then use &quot;virtual elevation&quot; methods to measure the power at the driving wheel. A detailed description of the protocol is long but a quick description is to climb the same hill on a calm day with different configurations. Since the hill is the same and the conditions are calm you know that the &quot;virtual elevation&quot; should match the true elevation profile of the hill; so if you can measure power at the crank then differences in observed VE must be the result of differences in losses in the drive train. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T18:36:49.523" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T18:36:49.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1103" CreationDate="2012-09-06T03:31:57.127" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Randonneuring&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Randonneuring&lt;/a&gt; or Audax riding is about riding audaciously long distances for the pleasure of riding audaciously long distances.  (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.audax.org.au&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.audax.org.au&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One method involves riding at 22.5km/h (14mi/h) in a peleton for up to 1000km.&#xA;Another method involves riding at any pace above 15km/h (9.32mi/h) (up to 600km) or 13.33km/h (8.32mi/h) (1000 / 1200km).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that the reasonable speeds for very long distance riding are 15km/h total average including breaks up to 600km, or 13.33km/h for 1000/1200km/h rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result I feel good when I make 15km/h of actual time when riding long distances, and try to improve my riding so that I'd be able to make 15km/h of actual time including sleep for longer distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-09-20T04:34:17.830" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T04:34:17.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2012-09-06T07:44:44.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can raise the saddle and handlebars on a medium to meet your needs, but lowering them on a large might be tricky, depending on the bike's design.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there's standover to consider.  There should be at least an inch between the top of the frame and your &quot;gentleman area&quot; when you're standing forward of the saddle with the bike between your legs and your feet flat to the ground (not standing on tip toes).  If you can manage that okay on the large bike then it should be okay for you.  If not, go for the medium.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best bet is to actually try out the two different sizes for yourself if at all possible.  Ideally you'd want to take them for a test drive, but failing that, at least do a standover test of both sizes in a bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T07:44:44.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2012-09-06T08:19:21.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's all about personal preference. I bought slightly too small in a 29er mountain bike. It's slightly lighter than the larger one and more agile, though the seat was too low for me and I had to get an extra long seatpost. This I found out by buying before trying. I recommend trying first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T08:19:21.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11201" CreationDate="2012-09-06T08:23:47.570" Score="4" ViewCount="1328" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both forks are rockshox. One has lock out, the other has remote lock out. Can I swap them around, and is it easy or are any special tools needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-10-04T16:22:48.303" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T04:07:25.830" Title="Can I swap the lock out on one suspension fork for the remote lock out on another?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2012-09-06T08:40:55.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bike which is too small can be gnarly, a bike too large can be cumbersome and unwieldy.  If you can, test ride both of them if possible!  Or test ride a similar bike from the same manufacturer, in the size you want to compare.  I test rode a 19&quot; and 21&quot; Orange Gringo mountain bike, it took two 5-10 minute rides on both to realise which one felt right.  Don't be intimidated by shop assistants, it's your money and bike, faff and be 100% happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it depends on what use the bike will have, if your going to race the bike the fit is more important and a shorter bike might serve you better - as you'll be able to get out the seat easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T08:40:55.263" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-06T11:18:21.520" Score="1" ViewCount="14460" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is best bike for person with neck problems ?&#xA;To be more specific, problems in inclining and looking up - I feel good when I am in straight vertical position. (for example, for long reading I use: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bookholder.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bookholder.com/&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is bike not recommended at all ? (ok, I know second question is for doc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found answer about posture :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2648/i-often-get-a-sore-neck-when-riding-how-can-i-adjust-the-setup-of-my-bike-to-he&quot;&gt;I often get a sore neck when riding. How can I adjust the setup of my bike to help prevent this happening?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I ask which types of bike (there are so many of them and their variants, including: mountain bike, european city bike, touring bicycle ,recumbent bicycle ) are suitable (and which are the best) for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flat area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hilly area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am going to buy two bikes, each for different city)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4967" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T17:44:35.040" Title="Best bike for neck in straight position?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9481" CreationDate="2012-09-06T11:28:58.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have a Sienna. I put two bikes in upright racks on the roof. And, as someone else said, can you put any inside? That's what I usually do if I don't have people in the third seat; I can put four bikes inside if I arrange them carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4825" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T11:28:58.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11184" CreationDate="2012-09-06T12:42:36.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're getting new wheels anyway, I'd just get tubulars for cyclocross. I don't know anyone that would recommend tubeless for 'cross. With tubular, you'll get the advantage of running low pressure that you are after. There are also a wide variety of tires that will be suited to your needs. They might not be perfect for your commute, but if you prep them with some sealant you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T12:42:36.733" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11196" CreationDate="2012-09-06T12:51:15.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't familiar with the term 'city bike' but it seems to map pretty closely to what I've known as a 'hybrid'.  I haven't spent a lot of time on these types of bikes but have gotten them for my father and my wife in the last few years.  Both bikes have a very upright stance, and came with adjustable stems so the handlebars can pretty easily be brought even farther up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what kind of frame you end up choosing I would probably err to the smaller frame sizes if you find yourself 'in between', and possibly get a size smaller than normal anyway - this should translate to a shorter effective top tube which will keep reach to the handlebars shorter and allow a more upright stance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T12:51:15.093" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11184" CreationDate="2012-09-06T13:38:28.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this series of articles from Cyclocross magazine on tubeless tires for cross - seems to have a mostly positive impression (though the comments are another story).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cxmagazine.com/going-tubeless-cyclocross-racing-intro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Going Tubeless in Cyclocross - Part 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cxmagazine.com/trying-tubeless-cyclocross-tires-setup-part-ii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Going Tubeless in Cyclocross - Part II&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cxmagazine.com/going-tubeless-cyclocross-tires-racing-recommendations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Going Tubeless for Cyclocross – Avoiding the Burp, Choosing the Best Tires, and a DIY System (Updated, Part III)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T13:38:28.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11193" CreationDate="2012-09-06T14:08:49.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, assuming they are both remote capable. Rockshox uses the same lockout on all the models I have seen. Should be no issue and will only take a small allen wrench. You will likely need to remove the grips, brake lever and shifter from your left handlebar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF the new fork is not capable you may need a remote lockout top cap, which is a bigger question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T14:08:49.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-06T15:23:05.367" Score="1" ViewCount="982" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I fit a 34.9mm front Shimano derailleur on my steel frame? I understand that steel frames are narrower. However, is there some sort of adapter that I can use, or can I even wrap the frame around there with some inner tubes to &quot;fatten&quot; it up? Will this be sufficiently stable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts will be appreciated, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4969" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T17:28:10.533" Title="34.9mm front derailleur on steel frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11202" CreationDate="2012-09-06T17:28:10.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Front-Derailleur-Shim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;derailleur shim&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one linked adapts a 34.9 mm derailleur clamp to a 31.8 mm seat tube.  I haven't seen other sizes but I'm sure it could be augmented/replaced with something homemade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T17:28:10.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11215" CreationDate="2012-09-06T18:00:12.577" Score="5" ViewCount="2184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to have those upward bar-ends, but with brake levers attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty hard to explain without a picture, but I hope someone understands what I'm looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anything like this exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4970" LastEditorUserId="4970" LastEditDate="2012-09-06T18:11:49.193" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T12:53:40.240" Title="Do bar-ends with brake levers exist?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11204" CreationDate="2012-09-06T18:09:22.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;With any number of brake puller solutions such as this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001CK0R64&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Problem-Solvers-Cable-Doubler-Levers/dp/B001CK0R64&lt;/a&gt; you can have as many levers as you want. Installing an additional lever and cabling isn't hard but if you don't want to do it your LBS will have no problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T18:09:22.587" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11207" CreationDate="2012-09-06T19:31:27.477" Score="7" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7708/after-an-accident-what-next&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; pretty well covers what to do when you collide with a vehicle.    But how do you best handle the following situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are a biker and you hit a pedestrian &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are a biker and you hit a biker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are a biker and you hit an inanimate object&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are a pedestrian and a biker hits you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are driving a car and a biker hits you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are an inanimate object and a biker hits you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are a biker and you fall over in the middle of the road and everyone laughs at you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the answer change if &lt;em&gt;you are at fault&lt;/em&gt; vs. &lt;em&gt;not at fault&lt;/em&gt; (assuming you can make an educated guess)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T15:36:47.960" Title="You just had an accident, what's next?" Tags="&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11206" CreationDate="2012-09-06T20:23:08.937" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are a biker and you hit a pedestrian&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never done that, but in many places you are legally required to stop and render assistance.  Also, it's the non-a**hole thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are a biker and you hit a biker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, stop, make sure the other person isn't hurt and doesn't have any mechanical trouble that'll stop them from riding.&#xA;If there is an injury or either party thinks it necessary, exchange contact info and/or wait for a responding officer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are a biker and you hit an inanimate object&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's someone else's property, like a car or a mailbox, and there's damage, leave a note with your contact info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Johannes points out, in some jurisdictions, a note might not be enough.  You might be assumed to have fled if you don't make an attempt to contact the owner or file a report with the police.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are a pedestrian and a biker hits you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many places, the cyclist is probably at fault since there are no highways for bikes where the pedestrian isn't assumed to have right-of-way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask for contact info, and offer assistance if the cyclist is injured.  If the cyclist leaves the scene without stopping, remember details (what the cyclist looked like and was wearing, their frame color and design), and file a police report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are driving a car and a biker hits you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same as in a car/car collision.  Stop, render assistance and give a report to any responding officer if either party is injured or thinks a report is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are an inanimate object and a biker hits you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impotent rage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are a biker and you fall over in the middle of the road and everyone laughs at you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick yourself up, and declare that you meant to do it.  Ride off pouting.  Realize your wheel is now out of true.  Stop.  True it enough with the wrong size nipple wrench until it stop scraping against the fenders.  Ride off pouting again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T02:18:42.250" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T02:18:42.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11206" CreationDate="2012-09-06T21:40:26.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stay calm. It is very easy to get heated when something like this happens. Both parties will assume that the other is at fault. Stay cool and be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that you and the other person involved are both OK. Seek medical assistance if there are injuries that warrant that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no injuries, then make sure that any property damage is noted. Exchange contact information or leave a note if appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At your nearest convenience, write down as much information that you can remember regarding the incident. The amount that we remember falls off dramatically after only a few hours after something happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, before you hop back on your bike give the rims a thorough going over. It would be a shame to survive a collision, then totally wipe-out due to a weakness in a bent rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3858" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T21:40:26.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11206" CreationDate="2012-09-06T23:04:59.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the above answers, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most jurisdictions - Don't admit fault (insurance, legal etc). Be careful when / if you say sorry as it can be interpreted as admission of fault. &quot;Sorry we had a prang&quot; is OK, &quot;Sorry, I did not see you&quot; is not. The reason for this is most insurance policies have clauses that won't pay out if you admit fault. You don't want a witness later telling the police &quot;He admitted he was in the wrong&quot; etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T23:04:59.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11206" CreationDate="2012-09-07T00:56:49.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that in many/most US jurisdictions any &quot;traffic accident&quot; (basically, an accident on public property involving a &quot;vehicle&quot;) that results in either personal injury (to any degree) or property damage over some dollar amount (which varies from $50 to several thousand) must be reported.  And in many cases it's best to summon the authorities rather than plan on reporting the accident at a later date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly interpreted, this rule could require reporting a skinned shin from a &quot;forgot to unclip&quot; fall at a stoplight, though reasonableness would suggest that reporting of such minor injuries only occur when there is a second party involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T00:56:49.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11213" CreationDate="2012-09-07T08:46:48.330" Score="4" ViewCount="7229" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bought a new bike my LBS put grease on the part of the seatpost that inserts into the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this? Surely it can't seize?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T10:09:49.083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T12:49:49.727" Title="Why did the bike shop put grease on my seatpost?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11212" CreationDate="2012-09-07T09:04:30.270" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;On old steel bikes a good reason would be to prevent the seatpost from rusting onto the frame, thus preventing saddle height adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More recently I understand from my LBS that you do it to prevent water from seeping into the frame along the (imperfectly sealed) seatpost. Depending on your frame you could end up carrying one or more kilo's of water with you if you have a lot of rainy rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T09:04:30.270" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11212" CreationDate="2012-09-07T12:44:28.437" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I present you with evidence that seatposts &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=seized+seatpost&quot;&gt;can, in fact, seize&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alloy &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; steel seatposts are both perfectly capable of seizing to both alloy and steel frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC, carbon seatpost/frame combinations may need carbon assembly paste for almost the opposite reason: to increase friction and reduce the torque required for a good grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T12:44:28.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11204" CreationDate="2012-09-07T12:53:40.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already pointed out, you're asking about mounting TT levers on bullhorn bars, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=tt+brake+levers+bullhorn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like so&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty popular (I keep meaning to replace the crosstop levers on my own bullhorns with these).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth checking whether a set of levers are for internally- or externally-routed cables: bullhorns aren't likely to be fitted for internal cable routing, so unless you're happy drilling them yourself, external cables are a better bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T12:53:40.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11217" CreationDate="2012-09-07T15:42:22.093" Score="17" ViewCount="22314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought not so long ago (about two month) brand new and the shiny white from my handle tap have become pretty dirty: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1S7zx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;handlebar&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am tempted to just change the tape to another color - that would be problem solved for me - but that would basically be a dirty hack. How can I clean the white tape and remove the dirt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1067" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T15:44:56.983" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T13:27:21.793" Title="How to clean white handlebar tape?" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11216" CreationDate="2012-09-07T16:05:51.260" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grab some of the disinfecting wipes in the round containers that you normally use for kitchen counters, etc. I like the Clorox brand in the yellow (Lemon Fresh!). Wrap around bars and squeeze a bit as you twist/rotate in the same direction as the wrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With cork based wrap this is fairly effective. With some of the slicker surfaced wraps (Lizard, etc), it's downright awesome. If you start cleaning with the wipes on a regular schedule your wrap will get even cleaner over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T16:05:51.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11216" CreationDate="2012-09-07T16:38:36.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a citrus degreaser and its great. I clean my entire bike with it, but it gets the sweat and oils off the tape so the dirt stops sticking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T16:38:36.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11196" CreationDate="2012-09-07T17:12:13.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of recumbents, including the Cruzbike Sofrider pictured below, allow you to ride in the same kind of seated position you do in an office chair, and the ones that have high bars (instead of having the handle bars under the seat) allow you to mount rear view mirrors so that you needn't turn your neck to look backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recumbents are lower to the ground than upright bikes, which makes them a fast efficient alternative to &amp;quot;comfort bikes&amp;quot;, though it also makes them harder to use than a road bike for fast city riding in dense traffic since you can't stand up to see over cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/33ZCE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cruzbike Sofrider&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which are the best for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flat area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hilly area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recumbents are great for riding in flat areas, though not as good for hilly areas -- they're not quite as stable at low speeds since you can't as easily reposition your hips, and you can't stand up to torque when you run out of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mountain bike, european city bike, touring bicycle ,recumbent bicycle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes can be ridden with back and neck straight but they're designed for people who ride with a slight forward tilt, and they're not efficient on roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many European city bikes are similar to US Comfort bikes, and others like Dutch cargo bikes are designed with carrying capacity in mind.  They're good for riding wearing everyday clothes at a pace that isn't going to get you all sweaty, but are no good for recreational riding with people on faster bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Touring bikes cannot as they have similar geometry to road/cross bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As explained above, recumbents come in vastly different geometries, but many do allow the kind of riding posture you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T17:44:35.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11216" CreationDate="2012-09-07T23:03:09.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a cleaning product called Simple Green. It's bio-degradable ( good for the environment ) and really does a complete cleaning job! You can mix it at different strengths from a 1/2 gallon or 1 gallon refill size. It comes in a spray bottle initially. I use it to clean my bicycle rather than soap and water. It is safe to use and doesn't harm the paint. Just spray it on the bike or a soft cloth, and wipe the grease and dirt/dust off easily. No need to rinse the bike. It should gently remove the dirt/sweat from your handlebar tape. If the grips are cork, use just a little Simple Green on a soft cloth and wipe gently and remove from the tape. Don't allow the Simple Green to stay on the tape for an extended period ( which is determined by the strength you mix the Simple Green ). Same goes for wiping the bike using Simple Green. Don't allow it to dry on the paint. Wipe it on and with a dampened second cloth, wipe it off. You'll find more uses for Simple Green besides your bike! If you're married, better buy two bottles so your spouse can have their own bottle! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorDisplayName="user4975" LastEditDate="2012-09-17T01:49:45.170" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T01:49:45.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11212" CreationDate="2012-09-07T23:10:22.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That bit of grease on the seat post into the seat tube will help &quot;seal&quot; the seat tube from getting any moisture into the bike frame. It may also keep the seat post from seizing in the seat tube. It does happen if the seat isn't moved for years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T23:10:22.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11212" CreationDate="2012-09-08T01:13:11.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame and post material matters.  With metal, bonding or rust can occur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbon posts can need the friction because they tend to be a smoother material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There can be imperfections that are too small for us to notice, so the grease can help to fill the gap for the seatpost retention to work &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T01:13:11.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-08T02:39:49.403" Score="1" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone recommend a helmet that in the price range of 40-100$ that can be bought in the united states on amazon that has the following features:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;removable pads so that they can be washed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bonus points if you can buy new pads too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;somehow reduces sweating. More holes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old bell that i dont remember buying. I bought it before i started biking daily, and now it is falling apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to buy a &quot;nicer&quot; helmet now that i actually use it, but im not sure which ones are &quot;good&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T02:39:49.403" Title="Helmet to reduce sweating" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-09-08T11:28:08.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11160" CreationDate="2012-09-08T11:13:59.917" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an experiment you can try that we used to do in high school  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get an empty coke can with no dents or other disfigurements in it, place it upright on the ground, and stand on top of it.  It should be able to bear the weight of most adults with normal body mass.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now put a small dent in the can and try it again.  But be careful because the small dent will introduce a weakness into the can and it will almost certainly buckle under your weight this time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously a bicycle frame is made from much thicker gauge aluminium than a coke can, but the same basic principles hold.  A tube is an inherently strong structure, but only if it remains true.  You put a dent into it, you put a region into the structure where stresses will concentrate and try to deform the tube further.  In the short term, it should be fine, but I suspect the lifespan of the tube would now be measured in months rather than years, as aluminium is a softer metal than steel and is more prone to metal fatigue (alumimium always suffers from stresses that will begin fatigue damage no matter how small the load, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_limit&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;).  You also have to consider that there may be other items of less obvious damage, such as small cracks opening up in welds that are small enough to remain hidden by the paint.  Fatigue will set in at these points as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do keep riding on this frame then I'd suggest monitoring the crash damage region very closely.  Also, don't go mountain biking on a frame in that state!  Stick to the roads.  And stick to quiet roads where you're unlikely to hit anything else and ones with no potholes, because another big impact or bump could make the frame fold up like a book at the dent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for repair, I suspect the only realistic option is to completely replace that tube.  Given how difficult aluminium is to weld I expect the cost of doing that would approach the cost of an entire new frame anyway, and given the frame already has some miles on it and will have accumulated some wear and tear it will not have the life expectancy of a new frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think realistically, your only option is to put that frame out to pasture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T11:13:59.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11212" CreationDate="2012-09-08T12:49:49.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the seizure problem that others have mentioned, greasing the seatpost also prevents another problem: creaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once spent weeks chasing down a creak that I initially thought was coming from the crank or bottom bracket. After disassembling and reassembling all that stuff, then tightening almost every single bolt on the bike, someone suggested that the creak could be coming from the seatpost rubbing inside of the seat tube and I should grease it. Bingo! Problem solved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T12:49:49.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11216" CreationDate="2012-09-08T14:00:49.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never gone wrong cleaning wraps using a soapy rag and elbow grease. I use an old bit of towel and dish soap. This has done a great job cleaning up thoroughly bike-greased and sweat-upon wraps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T14:00:49.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11230" CreationDate="2012-09-08T19:29:15.483" Score="1" ViewCount="1373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a spare inner tube with my bike, which is good.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked how it was packed and found it was sticking somewhat when I pulled it out of the box, which I can only imagine is bad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be an idea to put someething on the tube for storage, talcum powder maybe?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T09:11:33.277" Title="Storing an inner tube" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11229" CreationDate="2012-09-08T21:36:50.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always carry a tube with me in my backpack on longer tours. I left it in the packet I bought it in, but only to protect it from being punctured by the other stuff I carry in the bag (eg a Leatherman and keys).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that this is necessary but with or without the carton, the tube fits perfectly at the bottom of my Camelback, and the bit of added weight doesn't freak me out, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There never was talkum on the tube, and it is a pretty expensive tube, so do not worry about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4891" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T21:36:50.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11253" CreationDate="2012-09-08T21:52:25.937" Score="11" ViewCount="14861" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are thousands of saddles out there. Some are designated as road saddles while others are mountain saddles. However, the marketing copy does not seem to describe the difference between the two types, even between two similar models (for example, Selle Italia seems to have an SLR for road bikes and an SLR XC for mountain bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, what are the main differences between road saddles and mountain saddles? What, if any, are the potential downsides of using a road saddle off-road or a mountain saddle on pavement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T18:49:19.307" Title="What are the main differences between road saddles and mountain saddles?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11229" CreationDate="2012-09-09T00:10:30.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Unnecessary.&#xA;Longer answer: Talc would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1669" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T00:10:30.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1800" CreationDate="2012-09-09T00:15:10.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The table/graph &quot;Preferred separation of bicycles and motor vehicles&quot; (Ausroads, 2009) as visible here (Australian Bicycling Council, Cycling on Higher Speed Roads&#xA;When to Provide for Bicycles &#xA;on Higher Speed Roads) on page 2: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.austroads.com.au/abc/images/pdf/ns1525_fs_one.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.austroads.com.au/abc/images/pdf/ns1525_fs_one.pdf&lt;/a&gt; indicates that the Australian standard for introducing cycle lanes (being separately marked spaces on a public road) in an urban environment is centered at 5000 vehicle movements a day with the 85th percentile of speed being 55km/h.  If we consider the abominable &quot;shoulder lane&quot; of Australian practice to be a genuine bicycle lane then this would be extended into higher speeds and fewer traffic movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The road treatments suggested by Ausroads rarely come to fruition in NSW, with separated facilities almost always being inappropriate routed shared use paths with broken sight lines, corners well below speed, or merely being remarked standard footpaths neighbouring roads.  Where such paths are routed appropriately for commuting, such as the Illawarra's SUP Coastline Cycleway there are still numerous engineering flaws such as redundant curves, edge encroachment, failure to route mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Australian path building practice, road marking practice, or route marking of mixed traffic routes rarely follows this practice in urban environments in NSW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine, if you will, civil engineers who when responsible for constructing infrastructure are hindered at every turn, and whose responsibility to produce a road or way has been converted into the production of a leisure amenity for children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T00:15:10.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11236" CreationDate="2012-09-09T01:34:14.757" Score="-4" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a bicycle to commute to work (&amp;lt;2 miles), do groceries (~2-3 miles), go to school (~8 miles). Would &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/essex_sale.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; be a good bike for that? (one of the cheapest bikes on bikesdirect.com)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4984" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T20:34:17.397" Title="Buying a bicycle" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2012-09-09T21:14:02.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11235" CreationDate="2012-09-09T05:02:52.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the comments on your question are good, i'll answer anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes for your specific needs this is a fitting bike. &#xA;Longer. Yes, If you have some hills, the 3 speed oxford model may help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying a used bike off craigslist for someone with little bike knowledge is probably not a great idea. a $50 - 100 bike in my area is generally pretty old. beat up and not worth the savings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T05:02:52.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11229" CreationDate="2012-09-09T05:06:01.570" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Talcum powder, baby powder even flour will keep it from sticking to other items or itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long term storage you need to worry about the heat. if its older than a year i would worry about it dry rotting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T05:06:01.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11240" CreationDate="2012-09-09T09:24:20.080" Score="4" ViewCount="2399" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time the right pedal goes over the top I get a single clack noise with a little more 'travel', a point where the bottom bracket moves without any resistance, from that point in the rotation. I have only just noticed it recently and it seems to be more noticeable on the lower gears where the cogs are smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on what to do or what might be causing the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4987" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T13:27:39.807" Title="Clacking noise as right crank goes 'over the top' once per revolution" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11238" CreationDate="2012-09-09T11:00:47.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's always difficult to diagnose noise descriptions, especially in the drivetrain.  But guessing by the:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... the bottom bracket moves without any resistance ... more noticeable on the lower gears ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say the rear hub's freehub is damaged.  Pop it off the hub body and inspect where the pawls are (mind the pawl springs don't ping out!), look for broken pawls and/or mashed ratchet teeth (the teeth which the pawls engage with).  Post some pictures of it if you are unsure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T11:00:47.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11238" CreationDate="2012-09-09T12:24:02.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is to tighten the cranks -- on &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; sides.  If the problem is a loose crank (which you may not detect by simply shaking the crank), then riding with it loose will destroy the crank in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, my next suspicion would be a loose bottom bracket cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even a bad pedal bearing can produce similar symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And Joe's suggestion to check for something physically hitting something else is a good one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-09-09T13:57:06.087" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T13:57:06.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11324" CreationDate="2012-09-09T14:22:43.860" Score="10" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a two wheel cargo-trailer without suspension, and I am quite happy with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main issue is that it gets incredibly loud when carrying a crate of beer, especially an empty one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick to keep the noise down? I tried to wrap the crate in towels, but it does not really help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cardboard-dividers did not change a lot, compared to my towels. They did look pretty cheap, there might be better ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tilting the crate 30 degrees in the trailer however, reduced the noise level substantially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4989" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T16:00:40.923" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T16:00:40.923" Title="Crate of beer as cargo" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11241" CreationDate="2012-09-09T15:04:27.910" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;buy cases of beer with the cardboard dividers between the bottles.  You can then re-use the cardboard dividers in other cases of beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T15:04:27.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11241" CreationDate="2012-09-09T16:15:23.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get some bottle sleeves like these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beerboxes.com/mebosl7lo40.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mesh bottle sleeves&lt;/a&gt; that they use at liquor stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll quiet the noise and protect the bottles from breakage. Plus they are reusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T16:15:23.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11248" CreationDate="2012-09-09T19:47:59.047" Score="5" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issue: &#xA;My head is on the smaller side, so all &quot;universal adult&quot; helmets don't fit me. I've been to a couple LBS's recently and tried on just about all their helmets, from most of the popular brands (excepting Specialized). Most Small sized helmets I tried on don't even fit very well, some of them are in fact too tight. Going into winter, I decided to go for a cheaper, warmer helmet. However, I am pretty sure next summer I will not be able to handle miles and miles in it. I have found two other helmets (with lots of venting) that I would say actually fit comfortably (my primary criterion), one in particular I really like the look too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: should I pick that other helmet up now (Bell Sequence) just in case it gets discontinued? I won't be wearing it for quite a few months, so it's kinda silly when you're on a tight budget to buy something before you need it, but I sure do like the fit (and venting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4961" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T13:05:27.453" Title="Do helmets go out of style and get discontinued by manufacturers?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4479" CreationDate="2012-09-09T19:48:14.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Schwinn dry type of patch is a total waste of time and money. About $4 at Meijer, and the patches have so little adhesive that they have trouble staying on the tube (much less sealing a leak). So if a big box store with only Schwinn products is your only alternative, just buy the cheap tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T19:48:14.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11244" CreationDate="2012-09-09T21:53:54.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how long it takes before you change helmets, possibly not. My understanding is that even just lying around, the crash-resistant foam in helmets gradually degrades. Five years seems to be a common number, but I don't see any supporting evidence, so take that for the little it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T21:53:54.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11244" CreationDate="2012-09-10T00:06:14.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;During one single winter, most probably you'll still get the same model aftwerwards. But experience suggests that these fashion-oriented goods are constantly &quot;replaced&quot; by &quot;newer&quot; (as in &quot;better&quot;) ones, if not just for the sake of change (which, of course, makes me upset).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is with frames, suspension forks, derailers, tires, clipless shoes, you name it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, I can remember a few times, regarding regular clothes, that make me think: &quot;Oh, if I knew this thing was so good, I'd have bought more than one, for I can't find it again...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope these thoughts help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T00:06:14.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11244" CreationDate="2012-09-10T00:51:16.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most bike shops, if they have a helmet in stock, they will sell it even if it's last year's model, rather than ship it off to a remainder seller or some such.  But, of course, if they sell the helmet, and the model changes next year, they will not get more of the old ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess that helmet manufacturers turn over their product line about every three years, doing a little bit each year.  There's no good way to know if this year's model will be around next year -- it might or it might not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you figure the odds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T00:51:16.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11232" CreationDate="2012-09-10T09:07:34.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how saddles differ for any particular manufacturer (if at all), but I used to think that MB saddles should be bigger and softer than its road analogs with only one purpose: to save your family jewels and make your trip a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4770" LastEditorUserId="4770" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T09:18:04.667" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T09:18:04.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11244" CreationDate="2012-09-10T12:59:56.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally would not factor warmth into my decision - or if I did it would probably be the opposite of what you did with the cheaper helmet. My criteria would be &quot;if I wear this helmet in the middle of summer will my head get too hot?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is &quot;yes&quot; then I don't want the helmet, period. For all of the cooler scenarios I am happy to wear something underneath the helmet. For the most part this would probably be a cotton cap, although for the extreme winter I have a brilliant Assos balaclava which I've ridden as low as -5C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to remember the last lid I bought (a well-ventilated Giro) actually came with a skullcap in the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just saying, there are options are regards ventilation. On the other hand, a well-fitting helmet seems absolutely crucial if you're going to spend hours at a time wearing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears I'm encouraging you to spend money.....sorry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T13:05:27.453" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T13:05:27.453" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="64" CreationDate="2012-09-10T13:27:27.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this exact problem for a while on my hybrid (which was at the time my only bike). It turned out not to be shoe/foot-related at all - it was the saddle. It was a wider &quot;comfort&quot; style saddle that came with the bike. When I bought a road bike, I found that I didn't have the same problem there, and I replaced the saddle on the hybrid with a narrower road bike saddle and never had the problem there again either. My guess is that somehow the way my legs were meeting the saddle was pinching a nerve or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4825" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T13:27:27.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11232" CreationDate="2012-09-10T14:24:43.707" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of variation across models of saddles even if you stay within one genre (eg only consider road or only consider MTB).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you'll find if you look at popular racing saddles that MTB saddles &lt;em&gt;tend&lt;/em&gt; to be shorter. This is because in singletrack you're very frequently moving onto and off-of the saddle. A longer saddle might interfere with the &quot;body-english&quot; that some MTB riders use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if a saddle fits, it fits. That is the most important criteria. Everything else is a distant secondary consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T14:24:43.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11232" CreationDate="2012-09-10T14:35:34.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just from looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.selleitalia.com/se_it3/prodotti/offroad/pagina_slr/&quot;&gt;Selle Italia SLR Product Page&lt;/a&gt; it seems that there is little difference between &quot;road&quot; and &quot;offroad&quot; saddles, as all the saddles listed seem to be recommended for both &quot;road&quot; and &quot;offroad&quot;.  The same goes for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/catalogue-and-shop/saddles/road+%26+mtb/&quot;&gt;Brooks&lt;/a&gt; who group road and MTB in one category.  There are various models and I can't see any labelled simple SLR.  But if we compare, for instance, the SLR Tekno and the SLR XC, you'll notice that the SLR XC is double the weight (170g vs 85g).  I can only guess that the increased weight would give it more strength, and it would probably be able to able to withstand a few more bumps.  It would probably also have thicker padding to be a little easier when going over bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think it all comes down to what actually feels comfortable for you.  As well as what fits your riding style.  If you have a full suspension mountain bike, you may not need the saddle to absorb a lot of impact. If you have a road bike, and the roads aren't that nice where you live, then you may need something a little sturdier, or with a little extra padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T14:49:47.550" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T14:49:47.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11258" CreationDate="2012-09-10T15:47:09.780" Score="17" ViewCount="55703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought the Campangolo Khamsin wheelset, and now I would like to set the right wheel size in my Trek Incist 8i cycle computer. Before I do the custom wheel setting, I would like to know what would be the best choice?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheel has ETRTO 622x15c printed on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The computer comes with the following wheel sizes defined:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700x20, 700x23, 700x25, 700x28, 700x32, 700x35, 700x38, 26x1.5, 26x1.5, 26x1.90, 26x1.95, 26x2.0, 26x2.1, 26x2.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if anyone here knows what would be the closest match I would be happy to know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4213" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T17:20:01.103" Title="Choosing the right wheel size in my cycle computer" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11255" CreationDate="2012-09-10T15:52:17.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look on your tire for the proper size. Different tire sizes change the overall diameter of the wheel and amount of distance traveled per revolution of your wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T15:52:17.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11255" CreationDate="2012-09-10T16:01:24.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;622 is the ISO naming scheme for 700c wheels. Since the choices given to you don't list 700x15 I would think you'd have to enter a custom setting.  I don't imagine any of the 26 inch measurements would apply to you either. Mountain bikes have a bead seat distance of 559 mm, meaning you would need a tire that is 622+15 - 559 = 78 mm, or about 3 inches on a 26 inch rim to come up to the same radius. This is based on the information I was able to obtain from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown tire sizing page&lt;/a&gt;.  This assumes that you have 15c tires on the bike, which would be quite narrow, but not unheard of.  If you can supply the numbers from the side of the tire wall then we could provide you with a more specific answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T16:07:15.080" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T16:07:15.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11255" CreationDate="2012-09-10T16:09:39.527" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not had much luck with any of the preset settings (on my cateye computers) always using custom. Here is how I recommend to measure the circumference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate your tire to desired psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a mark of chalk on the garage floor and bike tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sit on my bike and roll forward one revolution until the bike tire mark comes back to the floor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mark the end position on the ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the distance between the marks on the ground, convert to mm (for the Cateye) and set the custom tire circumference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found differences between different tires (both 700 x 25) and even differences with the same tire (air pressure difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T16:09:39.527" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11255" CreationDate="2012-09-10T18:35:54.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that when you say the &quot;wheel&quot; has a size of 622x15c listed on it, you mean the rim and not the tire. As others have mentioned, the tire size is what you need. Almost any 700c tire will fit on your rim, assuming that your frame has the clearance to accommodate it. Once you've got your tire on there, check the size listed on it and match it up with the sizes you've listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that any 700xwhatever tire will not necessarily be exactly the same size as other tires with the same size listed on them. The size is an estimate. If you want the most exact measurement possible, or if your tire size isn't listed, you can measure it yourself like so: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a chalk mark on the ground. Position your front wheel directly on top of the chalk mark with the valve as low as it will go, which means it will also be directly on top of the chalk mark. With the chalk in your hand, roll the bike along one full tire rotation until the valve comes to rest at it's lowest position. Put another chalk mark. Measure the distance in millimeters. Use that number instead of whatever the chart tells you. And, if you want the most precise measurement possible, sit on your bike while you roll it along and get a friend to do the marking. This wall account for the way your weight distorts the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, this measurement process is all explained in the manuals of most cycle computers, page 24 of your particular manual. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/pdf/owners_manuals/06_Incite_6i_8i.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trekbikes.com/pdf/owners_manuals/06_Incite_6i_8i.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T18:35:54.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2012-09-10T19:48:47.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As several have pointed out, it is best to get something that actually fits you but with that in mind, it is better to go a little smaller than a little larger of a frame. For example, look at George Hincapie. He is 191 CM or 6 foot 3 and rides a bike that is just a little bigger than my 56 CM and I am just 5' 10 or 155 CM. He rides a 57.5. Putting on a longer stem and setting the seat back as far as it can go and pulling out the seat tube is how he fits on a bike that is just a tad bigger than mine while having a lot longer legs and body than I do. If he got something more like a 61-63, his bike would be heavier and not as stiff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also depends on a few other factors. The length of the top tube, riding preferences, riding style. Keep in mind that on a typical bike, if you got one that is smaller and just added a longer stem and pulled out the seat post as far as you could go, handling will also be a bit different because your center of gravity would be different than what it was built for. It wouldn't be as easy to go downhill, steering would be a bit more squirmy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All bikes are built different. I have been on 56 CM's that were too big and too small for me in the stock format and even though I have owned my own bike for years, I am always adjusting the fit according to where I am in the season or how I feel on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4498" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T19:48:47.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2012-09-10T21:46:30.953" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/Articles.asp?ID=247&quot;&gt;Rivendell bikes&lt;/a&gt; argues that most road bikes sold are too small.  They're probably in the minority opinion as far as bike shops go, but they have (collectively) a lot of experience in frame geometry and riding styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their argument is based on their belief that most shops assume that road riders should emulate racers -- experts who are willing to put up with a lot of discomfort to gain small efficiencies -- and that this alienates a lot of casual riders, commuters, and tourists who would be better served by a bike that fits comfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most bikes are sold too small. We see it all the time: bars way below the saddle, the rider leaned over 35-degrees with arms straight out as his hands are on the brake hoods. If he took his hands off the bar he'd flop down and smack his nose on the stem. It's not comfortable or correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you come to us for a bike, we'll ask what size you ride now, and invariably put you on a bike that's two to five centimeters bigger. You'll still have crotch clearance, but your bar will be higher, you'll lean over less, and you'll be a lot more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;Sizing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most riders are most comfortable when the handlebar is a few centimeters higher than the saddle. Some like it four or five inches higher. Some like the look of the bar lower than the saddle, but few riders over 35 like a low bar once they've ridden a higher one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To achieve that bar height, &lt;em&gt;it helps to start with a bike that's the largest practical size you can ride&lt;/em&gt;. We suggest you get the size that allows you to put the handlebar at least 2cm higher than the saddle. That works great for most people. You can always lower the bar if you find it's too high, but it's rare when that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and especially relevant when dealing with sales-people:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sometimes a bike feels funny or uncomfortable, but the salesperson tells you that you're just not used to it, or you're using muscles you haven't used before, and it takes a few weeks to adapt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't believe it.&lt;/strong&gt; There's always some getting used to it, but right off the bat, sitting on a new bike that fits you and is set up right so that it gives you a good position should feel about as natural as sitting in a chair. Your hands on the bars should feel like hands on a table in front of you. There is something to be said for breaking in your bottom or whatever, but it should feel at least reasonable right off the bat. You shouldn't have to adapt to or tolerate discomfort even a little, not even when the bike is new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T21:52:10.650" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T21:52:10.650" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11255" CreationDate="2012-09-11T02:45:05.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/CC-RD400DW/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cateye Double Wireless&lt;/a&gt;, and I was surprised at how much the tire circumference in the instructions varied from what I was measuring and observing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run 700x25C Gatorskins, and the Cateye instructions said to use a circumference of 2105mm, but I was measuring a circumference of 2155mm, when the tire was inflated on my wheel. That's more than a 2% difference. In actuality, it can be shown that the Cateye number (2105mm) is a lot closer to the true circumference (when a rider is on the bike, compressing the tire, and changing the effective radius of the wheel/tire and circumference of the tire) than 2155mm is. So if you can live with a small amount of inaccuracy, I would say that you should go with the number in the instructions that came with your computer. It's probably something they've considered more carefully than you might think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to explain this to a friend, and his reply was &quot;your inner nerd is showing,&quot; which is probably true. But, I have degrees in math, and I don't care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I found, for my bike &amp;amp; my weight, was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Sitting on the bike causes the tire to compress about 5mm. (My computer sensor reads off my back wheel, which carries most of my weight.) So when I measure the circumference of the tire, that must be taken into account. There is, effectively, a loaded and unloaded circumference. In my case, the unloaded circumference of a new 700x25C Gatorskin is about 2155mm. The loaded circumference is around 2124mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The tire wears over time. With 3200 miles on the rear tire, it's squared off pretty good, and the worn unloaded circumference is about 2140mm, whereas the worn loaded circumference is around 2109mm. These tires are typically good for 4000 miles, maybe 4500. Near the end of its life, the number given by Cateye turns out to be pretty close for this tire. But not all tires of a given size have the same circumference. Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires, for example, are taller (larger circumference) than Gatorskins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Can I find a &quot;set it and forget it&quot; number? I could just use the figure supplied by Cateye, 2105mm, or I could interpolate and use (2124+2105)/2=2115 (rounded). Over the life of the tire, this would cause my speed and mileage to be overestimated when the tire is new and underestimated when the tire is worn, but it should average out by the time the tire is replaced, assuming the tire achieves an average lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2% is not a huge error, but over a year's mileage for me, it would cheat me out of a longish ride's mileage (somewhere between 40 and 50 miles), at least in my records.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T03:59:44.323" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T03:59:44.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5762" CreationDate="2012-09-11T11:20:23.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a 10 mile ride in a rural area down country lanes. I am broke, so used a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maplin.co.uk/flare-led-torch-with-cree-technology-507167&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;£20 torch from Maplin&lt;/a&gt; (LED CREE technology), and made my own gaffer tape plus Velcro mount. Result. It was raining and very dark, and I could see perfectly adequately. I also used a headlight to map read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5000" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T11:20:23.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5762" CreationDate="2012-09-11T13:09:44.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magicshine products are perfectly match your requirements.&#xA;I've got MagicShine MJ-808 and find it very good.&#xA;Not ideal, but very good.&#xA;I think you should definitely have a look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4770" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T13:09:44.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2012-09-11T15:53:55.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just returned a bike that was slightly too large. The issue with stand over height is a safety concern for your personal parts and to avoid injury (don't just 'stand over' it, lower yourself a bit, see how far you have before you might touch if you had to dismount quickly in that fashion), but the more relevant measurement for me ended up being the 'effective top tube' length (yes, exactly what it sounds like, the horizontal distance parallel to the ground ignoring the actual angle of the top tube). I was reaching too far forward for the handle bars and this was causing strain on my back and pressure on my wrists. I just bought at the top of my budget so I didn't have cash for a new stem, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lowering the seat on the larger size &lt;em&gt;helped&lt;/em&gt; but it was still too far to reach the bars. I stopped at the point where the pedaling would have become silly, so technically I could have lowered the seat &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; to have a shorter reach distance, but then the other issue appears.&#xA;Indeed, I may end up getting a longer seat post, but that's not as important as avoiding back strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to several LBSs in the area and all of them paired me with the larger size, partly b/c I was just at the edge of height range for the size down, so they didn't want me to get something too small. But bodies are particular and I would suggest a comparison ride of about 20-30 minutes on each size (that's what it took me in the end, and this was a big 'first' for me too, so I don't have my 'correct feel' honed yet) to figure out what really works. The 'parking lot' test definitely failed me this time around, and will likely continue to do so for future purchases. You need time to settle-in to feel what really works, especially if you're new to &lt;em&gt;purchasing&lt;/em&gt; (actually sport activity experience aside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4961" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T15:53:55.403" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-11T16:22:57.813" Score="5" ViewCount="591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering replacing the Simplex SX410 derailleur for a Campy Nuovo Record on my early 80s Mercier (6-speed cassette).  Reason being that there has been for several years now a problem shifting from the 3rd to the 4th (and vise versa) one needs to move the friction shifter more than for the other changes.  Can I expect more precise shifting with the Campy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently changed the chain too. I have a SRAM pc830 now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5002" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T23:01:51.250" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T16:18:56.953" Title="Should replacing the rear derailleur on my 80s road bike with a Campy Nuovo improve shifting?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11159" CreationDate="2012-09-11T17:05:31.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;In California&lt;/em&gt;:&#xA;motorists are required to block the bike lane (or get close enough to the curb to block any bicyclists from going between their vehicle and the curb) when turning right.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CA Department of Motor Vehicles is now &lt;em&gt;immediately failing&lt;/em&gt; drivers during driving tests if they do not block in this manner (or get reasonably close to the curb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will often see the solid white lines on the right hand side become dashed before an intersection, this is to signal that moving autos can move over at that point without being considered 'reckless' (since you're really supposed to stay in your lane most of the time, not that most people pay attention enough to do so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4961" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T17:05:31.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-11T17:56:00.470" Score="1" ViewCount="1731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 6' 3&quot; long, having 45 inches of waist-Toe length. I bought Trek 3500, 19.5&quot; sized frame bicycle two months ago. I've been experimenting with the handlebar and seat positions(Forward n Backward) to achieve comfort,to avoid stress in the back and shoulders,since the purchase.I'm riding it,with the seat post touching the minimum insertion mark already. But i couldn't achieve it yet. Please help me out in this, Bike is my mode of transport as well as i take long rides of 40-60 Kms seldom(Once or twice in a week). Should i ride this bicycle or upgrade to 21&quot; bike. Help me here! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5003" LastEditorUserId="3858" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T02:38:54.200" LastActivityDate="2019-07-17T02:59:35.047" Title="How to avoid or reduce back-pain by adjusting the handlebar and seat of 19.5&quot; MTB?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-11T18:19:38.187" Score="9" ViewCount="23438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been biking on single-speed for a few months and would like to play around with a fixed gear. I've heard of a flip-flop hub, but I'm not sure exactly what it is. And without any fellow bikers - I'm completely lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5004" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T22:11:57.743" Title="How do I change my single-speed to a fixed gear?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11269" CreationDate="2012-09-11T18:40:38.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flip-Flop hubs have freewheel thread on one side, fixed-gear threading on the other side. Many SS bicycles come with this sort of wheel, if you have a sprocket on both sides of your hub, you already have a flip-flop hub/wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have a single sprocket (and it is a fixed gear hub, see note below), you can purchase a fixed sprocket and replace the SS freewheel with the fixed sprocket, since both singlespeed and fixed gear hubs use the same 1.37 x 24 tpi threading for the sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: @heltonbiker is correct, you will need a lockring with the fixed gear hub, they have a double thread, one for the sprocket and one for the lockring. You can put a SS freewheel on a fixed gear hub, but you cannot put a Fixed sprocket onto a SS hub (it does not have the step down threading for the locking mechanism)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2012-09-11T23:55:36.897" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T23:55:36.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11269" CreationDate="2012-09-11T18:52:39.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a singlespeed, you may already have a flip flop hub.  A flip flop hub has threads on both sides of the wheel. Typically there is a side for a freewheel and a side for a fixed gear.  Take a look at the rear hub opposite the freewheel and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fixed gear side will have two tiers of threads, one larger diameter section for a fixed cog and a smaller diameter section for a lock ring which is reverse threaded.  You need to thread on the fixed cog clockwise, then thread on the lockring counterclockwise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not want to attempt to put a fixed cog on the same side as the freewheel if it does not have the reverse threading for a lock ring.  This is known as a suicide fixed cog because you can't put a standard fixed cog lockring on and would have to use a lockring from a bottom bracket typically to prevent the fixed cog from loosening when backpedaling or skidding.  Over time this can come loose and cause you to loose the ability to brake with the back wheel as the cog will unthread as you backpedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can however thread a freewheel on to the fixed side of a hub with no real issues.  This would thread on clockwise like the fixed cog. No lockring would be used. This can be common when using fixed / fixed hubs which are threaded for a fixed cog and lock ring on both sides.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T18:52:39.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-11T20:55:28.983" Score="7" ViewCount="15376" Body="&lt;p&gt;My calves are super tight when I finish my ride, and my Achilles are sore for days after a 20 mile rolling hill ride. Could it be that my seat height is too low? If not, what could be the root cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5007" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T15:00:06.393" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T17:50:36.577" Title="Is my bike fit a problem, I'm experiencing achilles tendon pain?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11268" CreationDate="2012-09-11T21:12:51.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 6'2&quot; and my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/xtc.29er.2/9031/48896/#geometry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giant XTC 29er XL (22&quot;)&lt;/a&gt; fits me perfectly. I would definitely upgrade. There's more to the geometry than just the height of the saddle that could affect the way your body fits (or contorts to) the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3015" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T21:12:51.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11269" CreationDate="2012-09-12T03:15:22.363" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b4Kvk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Paul High Flange FlipFlop Hub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Benzo and Glenn Gervais are right on, but I thought I'd include a photo for any visual learners. This is a typical fixed/free, high flange rear hub. Quite often they're available in 120mm and 130mm OLD to fit different width dropouts. These hubs generally have solid axles without quick releases to prevent the hub from slipping and slackening your chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right side is for a fixed cog. (The hub in the picture has a lockring installed already). The left side is for a single speed freewheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is another example (a White Industries ENO Eccentric) with two big differences. First, instead of two opposite-threaded areas for a cog and lockring, this hub has splines for a splined cog and threads for the lockring (left side of the picture). The second difference is the eccentric axle which allows for chain tension adjustment on bicycles with vertical dropouts (single speed or track specific bikes have horizontal or rear-facing dropouts for chain tension adjustments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gooZ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White Industries Eno Eccentric&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T03:15:22.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11286" CreationDate="2012-09-12T10:20:19.567" Score="6" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that Lance Armstrong has decided not to fight the allegations of his doping; while technically not an admission of guilt - he is being sanctioned/punished for doping.  I've also read that several of his team-mates and team doctors have also been sanctioned/punished/banned for life for their involvement in doping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a single, comprehensive list of everyone from the team (for the various) years that either has been busted or hasn't been?  Is it pretty much accepted that everyone cheated, or were there people involved who were actually clean and unaware of the cheating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3162" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T14:23:21.437" Title="The Scope Of The Lance Armstrong Doping Scandal" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11285" CreationDate="2012-09-12T10:24:56.463" Score="2" ViewCount="2612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have dismantled and thrown away the old parts of this DBS 10 Speed bike I'm converting to a fixed-gear. Yesterday I received a &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F4sMC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;48T Espresso crankset&lt;/a&gt;, but now I wonder which bottom bracket to get. The shell width is 68mm. Can anyone help me to get the right size for a bottom bracket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The bike as I found it originally&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F4sMC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DBS 10 Speed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The bike after I have stripped it down&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3az0B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DBS 10 Speed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4620" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T15:08:45.760" Title="DBS 10 Speed Conversion - Bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2012-09-12T12:29:36.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't pay too much attention to sizing charts and the like. They are OK, but we are all different in how we balance. I'm just under 6 feet tall yet I ride an extra large Boardman. As someone said, with seat adjustments it works well and I like being up high. The critical thing is to get the right position regarding knee to peddle, to make sure the handle bars are the right height with the correct length stem to avoid back pain, and being able to comfortably get your toes on the ground whilst sitting on the bike. In other words, try them and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4677" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T12:29:36.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11206" CreationDate="2012-09-12T12:37:29.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You are an inanimate object and a biker hits you&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happened last week. Two bikes hit me from behind and I took a dive into the tarmac. Cuts, big bruises, grazes, and dented helmet, but no broken bones. If you are insured, a case for your insurers so get witnesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for me, it was with a cycling club. I just staggered to my feet, gritted my teeth, said &quot;forget it&quot;, and got back on the bike for a painful ride home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4677" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T12:37:29.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11289" CreationDate="2012-09-12T13:43:16.057" Score="25" ViewCount="19690" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often in a review of brakes, or an article talking about braking the author will use the term &quot;modulate.&quot; E.g. &quot;The brake modulates well&quot; or &quot;Modulate your front brake.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly does this term refer to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T19:50:57.303" Title="What does &quot;modulate&quot; mean when referring to brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11282" CreationDate="2012-09-12T13:52:23.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lightly feathering the brakes. Hard braking often locks up a tire causing a skid or to break free from the ground. This is uncontrolled and damages both tires and trails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to modulate the brakes, slowly squeeze the brake lever, and pausing mid way once the brakes are working, you probably have more you could squeeze, just dont need to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different brake set ups will offer differing levels of available modulation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T13:52:23.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11165" CreationDate="2012-09-12T14:05:09.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not choose a handlebar bag? That way you might even grab a banana or hear your phone ring while commuting. And you will, surprisingly, have &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/05/02/aerodynamics-of-real-world-bicycles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;better aerodynamics&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;I like the waterproof Ortlieb, but choices are many. &lt;a href=&quot;http://ortlieb.com/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=ultimate5plus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; one comes in 7 liters and 8,5 liter models.&#xA;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://ortlieb.com/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=ultimate5compact&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; one comes in a compact 2,7 liters: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4497" LastEditorUserId="4574" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T18:13:07.883" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T18:13:07.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11279" CreationDate="2012-09-12T14:44:37.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be one of those bikes with a weird scandanavian bottom bracket, called a fauber bottom bracket.  Not even sheldon mentions this style on his site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to get an adapter to adapt this to fit english thread bottom brackets&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fixedgearbikes.blogspot.com/2010/04/fauber-bottom-bracket-adapter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://fixedgearbikes.blogspot.com/2010/04/fauber-bottom-bracket-adapter.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link will send you to a finnish website, so you may need to call (the owner speaks english) to place an order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After putting in the adapter, you should be able to use any standard english bottom bracket. Just want to make sure you get the right spindle length on the new BB.  107mm should probably work if you're running the chainring on the outer facing side of the crank spider, 110mm if you're bolting the chainring to the inside of the crank spider. Probably wouldn't be bad if you got a longer spindle than you needed though.  Your crank may come with specs for a preferred spindle length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia entry&lt;/a&gt; about bottom brackets for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another link to fish for info:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/372038-Swedish-Norwegian-Bottom-Brackets-One-piece-cranks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/372038-Swedish-Norwegian-Bottom-Brackets-One-piece-cranks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T15:03:02.113" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T15:03:02.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11278" CreationDate="2012-09-12T14:50:40.250" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there are a lot of riders that have admitted doping, and/or been sanctioned for it (As well as others involved in the teams), I don't think anyone has compiled a single &quot;Lance list&quot;. If you want to know, you are pretty much going to have to look through the team members and then check each of them individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to US Postal, Trek/Discovery and other Lance variations, many riders of the same era from other teams have also been sanctioned, among them Ulrich, Vinokourov (sp), Pantani, Basso, and the list goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that the USADA information has been released, the number of people named/sanctioned that testified include 11 former teammates in the USPS/Discovery days, among then Hincapie, Christian Vandevelde, Levi Leipheimer, Frankie Andreu. There are also quite a few redacted (Blacked out) names that are either not riders or are foreign riders. There have been quite a few resignations and firings among team staff related to this. There is an excellent interview with Levi here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20121016/ARTICLES/121019643&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20121016/ARTICLES/121019643&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Some of the following is hearsay type material: There is also speculation that the UCI itself was complicit in Lance's case, letting the team know when testing would occur, etc. (End vague, hearsay type evidence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the running jokes I've heard is that if they do actually take the titles away from Lance (Which is still up in the air, that's a UCI decision and will probably eventually end up in CAS [Court of Arbitration for Sport]), they will have to find some club riders to give it to because nobody else would be left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, it's a big mess, and it's probably safe to say that doping was (and still is) rife in elite cycling, and the ones that get caught are the ones that simply aren't paying attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and for the record, Lance has tested positive twice, once for corticosteroids (1999), which was not outside the legal limits and attributed to a saddle cream, and another test in the 2000's was tossed out because the sample wasn't handled properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's a bit of a misnomer to label it all as the &quot;Lance doping scandal&quot;, however. Lance is just the most visible part of a very large iceberg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to add, now that the iceberg is starting to break up, many sponsors are leaving Lance (As of 10.18.2012) These include Nike, Giro, Trek, Anheuser Busch. Honey Stinger (Of which he is an investor) is removing his likeness from packaging, and he has stepped down as chairman of Livestrong. There is speculation that SRAM is attempting to buy back his shares as he is an investor there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2012-10-18T14:23:21.437" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T14:23:21.437" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11273" CreationDate="2012-09-12T14:56:39.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The achilles pain and some tightness in the back of the calves comes from ankling too much, by pedaling high on the balls of your feet. I find that I do this when the seat is a bit too high.  Lowering the seat slightly and making sure my cleats are positioned more toward the center of my foot as opposed to toward the toes helped me to alleviate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to notice whether you are pushing with your ankles while pedaling, this is the motion that causes the stress on the tendon. I lowered my seat such that it didn't feel like I was overextending my leg during a pedal stroke or trying to tip/toe at the greatest point of extension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html#achilles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sheldon&lt;/a&gt; for more info on pain in the tendon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related question on cleat postion:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7433/why-not-place-the-cleats-further-back-on-the-foot&quot;&gt;Why not place the cleats further back on the foot?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T15:07:18.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11282" CreationDate="2012-09-12T15:42:02.677" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake modulation how much fine control you have to apply a range of braking power distributed over the pull of your brake levers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No modulation is basically no braking vs wheel locking.  Having low modulation will mean it's hard to feather the brakes and you can only really lock up the pads.  Too much modulation means you will bottom out on the levers before you lock up on the wheels. Ideal modulation gives you access to the whole range of braking power desired and allows you to apply it evenly across the range of the brake lever, giving you fine control over feathering the brakes, stopping firmly, or locking the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ak6J7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.simkinsdesigns.com/modulation.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;simkinsdesigns.com/modulation.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-09-18T19:50:57.303" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T19:50:57.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11273" CreationDate="2012-09-12T17:50:36.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biking has actually alleviated my Achilles/heel pain. I have the arch of my foot more or less over the middle of the pedal. I am so grateful for it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smaller frame allowed me to lessen my back pain, I was too far from the bars (dropped effective top tube length ~.6'' and that did the trick. The seat position is also important. Change this up and down until you find what works, remember you want near full leg extension when the pedal is at its lowest point, but not beyond that. If the seat is as low as it goes and you're still having to pedal with your toes to keep contact at the bottom of the rotation, the bike is too big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4961" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T17:50:36.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12386" CreationDate="2012-09-12T18:01:58.687" Score="7" ViewCount="968" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a freshman in high school who is planning to build his own recumbent tricycle.  However, I would be very disappointed if my creation was illegal to ride on bike paths and sidewalks.  I have already perused the Wisconsin State Statutes, and there is nothing that would apply to even a store-bought tricycle.  Is anybody aware of laws from other states covering tricycles, so that I may be aware of them before I start building?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5011" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T15:53:10.463" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T15:53:10.463" Title="Laws applying to Homemade Tricycles" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;&lt;tricycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11298" CreationDate="2012-09-13T01:09:51.787" Score="2" ViewCount="1054" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a comparable modern-day rim to these &quot;fir el 201&quot; rims? I believe they came stock on a 1996 Bianchi Eros. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the rims, and I am trying to gauge the quality that I am used to in order to set a baseline in my search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/FgwqJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rim label&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2885" LastEditorUserId="2885" LastEditDate="2012-09-13T13:26:47.837" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T13:26:47.837" Title="What is a modern equivalent to &quot;fir el 201&quot; rims" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11300" CreationDate="2012-09-13T03:15:55.130" Score="4" ViewCount="1373" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, apologies if this question has tones of frustration, my new crank set and bottom bracket has never been installed correctly, so I am going to do it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should the drive spline on the left crank be greased? It was assembled with grease but that seems to have helped it fall off twice now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can I get an aluminium substitute for the plastic tension nut and if so can someone identify the exact part number I need? I can see they exist, just not certain which one will be compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: Originally the shop forgot to put in the bottom bracket spacers, so while the crank and shaft moved laterally making shifting a mess, I think it also allowed the crank to move and take tension off the tension nut allowing it to spin off and disappear. This allowed the crank to eventually just slide off the spline. When it was reattached with a new nut and (this time too many) spacers, it didn't have enough thread engagement and eventually sheared threads, allowing the pedal to slide off again. I never want this to happen again. I intend to get the tools to disassemble the bottom bracket, place all of the spacers correctly, then use an up-rated tension nut whose threads won't shear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SLX/SI_6PZFA_002/SI-6PZFA-002-En_v1_m56577569830647029.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Shimano technical doc for crank&quot;&gt;Shimano crank set technical document&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Back in 2012 I rebuilt this crank with grease and by the book. It used the replacement plastic retaining nut, blue loctite on the pinch bolts with correct torque and the correct spacer arrangement in the bottom bracket. This crank has held up perfectly and continues to, three years later. The titanium nut arrived but has never been needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5014" LastEditorUserId="5014" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T11:15:38.267" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T11:15:38.267" Title="Attaching crank arm with Shimano SLX M660" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2012-09-13T05:34:26.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a sidewinder.  Replace the hard seat, Aztec 2 threaded brake pads, True the wheels keep it cleaned adjusted and lubed and adjusted and just ride it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5017" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T05:34:26.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11292" CreationDate="2012-09-13T11:52:42.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QUICKBIKE/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1996&amp;amp;Brand=Bianchi&amp;amp;Model=Eros%20%2802%29&amp;amp;Type=bike#.UFHGllRmTqc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikePedia&lt;/a&gt;, these did not come stock on the Bianchi Eros in either 1996 or 1997. Since this bike came stock with Mirage level components, you're probably looking at a low - mid level quality OEM rim. Fir is/was a good brand, as is Ambrosio (which came stock on this bike). Finding a rim from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=563&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velocity&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alexrims.com/default.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alex Rims&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.com/en/product/rims/road-triathlon/rims&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mavic&lt;/a&gt; just to name a few common manufacturers will provide you with a quality alternative that is affordable and readily available today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To match the style, you are going to want to get a low profile or &quot;box&quot; style rim as opposed to a deep profile or &quot;aero&quot; rim. All of these companies and more have a style of rim like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will definitely need to purchase new spokes and nipples for this, so make sure you know how to purchase the proper size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T11:52:42.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12325" CreationDate="2012-09-13T15:07:00.917" Score="1" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a cadence meter available for the Shimano Ultegra Flight Deck 5601?  Or is there a good alternative option for measuring cadence without changing the flight deck setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3007" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T12:57:29.313" Title="Cadence meter for the Shimano Ultegra Flight Deck 5601?" Tags="&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11293" CreationDate="2012-09-13T17:09:57.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I grease the splines. I prefer to put a bit of blue loctite on my fixing bolt to be sure it doesn't loosen up if you run in to issues with this happening. I probably would be a bit wary about using loctite with a non-metal fixing bolt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen aluminium fixing bolts on ebay, just search for them.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=m570.l2736&amp;amp;_nkw=Wheels+Mfg+HT2+aluminum+fixing+bolt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's one  set of results&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T17:09:57.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11304" CreationDate="2012-09-13T19:27:47.970" Score="7" ViewCount="9642" Body="&lt;p&gt;While riding in the bike lane on a four lane street in Northern California, a car passed me on my left, stopped in the right-hand lane twenty to thirty feet ahead of me, and signaled to turn right into a parking lot driveway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who has the right of way in this situation? Am I required to stop in the bike lane and let the car turn across my lane, or is the car required to wait until it is safe to turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm specifically asking about California law but encourage answers for all jurisdictions. While safety and biking defensively is important, my question is only concerned with the law. There is a similar question regarding &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11159/is-it-legal-to-pass-a-car-on-the-right-when-that-car-is-turning&quot;&gt;cars turning right at an intersection&lt;/a&gt;, but none of the answers address driveways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5022" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T01:46:11.313" Title="Must cyclist yield to car turning right across a bike lane into driveway?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11301" CreationDate="2012-09-13T21:57:42.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Australia at least, a cyclist in a bike lane has right of way over a car which is crossing the bike lane: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Coloured bicycle lanes at intersections are to remind motorists that&#xA;  this section of the roadway is a travel lane for bicycle riders. The&#xA;  marking highlights the existence of the ‘bicycle lane’ to motorists&#xA;  and the &lt;strong&gt;‘right of way’ legally provided to the cyclist by a ‘bicycle&#xA;  lane’&lt;/strong&gt;. Therefore, where you see a bicycle lane and particularly a&#xA;  green coloured area at an intersection, be on the lookout for&#xA;  cyclists. &lt;strong&gt;If a cyclist is in the bicycle lane, motorists must give&#xA;  way.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tams.act.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0011/64478/Road_Rules_2012_Part_C1.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.tams.act.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0011/64478/Road_Rules_2012_Part_C1.pdf&lt;/a&gt; - page 31&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this includes both cars turning on the intersection or entering driveways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;75 Giving way when entering a road-related area or adjacent land from&#xA;  a road ($114 fine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(1) A driver entering a road-related area or adjacent land from a&#xA;  place on a road without traffic lights or a stop sign, stop line, give&#xA;  way sign or give way line must give way to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(a) any pedestrian on the road; and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(b) any vehicle or pedestrian on any road-related area that the driver&#xA;  crosses or enters; and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(c) if the driver is turning right from the road - any oncoming&#xA;  vehicle on the road that is going straight ahead or turning left;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(d) if the road the driver is leaving ends at a T-intersection&#xA;  opposite the road-related area or adjacent land and the driver is&#xA;  crossing the continuing road - any vehicle on the continuing road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means you'd have a right of way even if you were wheeling your bike on the footpath (or riding on the footpath where it is legal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3427" LastEditorUserId="3427" LastEditDate="2012-09-13T22:14:07.953" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T22:14:07.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11301" CreationDate="2012-09-13T22:30:39.087" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21717.htm&quot;&gt;California Vehicle Code section 21717: Turning Across Bicycle Lane&lt;/a&gt; states that cars are required to enter the bike lane before turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever it is necessary for the driver of a motor vehicle to cross a bicycle lane that is adjacent to his lane of travel to make a turn, the driver shall drive the motor vehicle into the bicycle lane prior to making the turn and shall make the turn pursuant to Section 22100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5022" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T22:30:39.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11301" CreationDate="2012-09-14T01:51:32.010" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of who has legal right of way, Toronto tells cyclists to avoid passing cars on the right, and especially when the car might turn right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFhxu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toronto.ca/cycling/safety/car-bike.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Car-bike collisions and tips to avoid them&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T02:01:21.900" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T02:01:21.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-14T03:59:10.283" Score="17" ViewCount="4925" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in my mid forties and ride a seven speed cruiser or maybe mountain bike. I enjoy pedaling while standing, and I don't really care about speed or efficiency. When there is even the slightest uphill grade and I stand. I get in a high gear and enjoy slowly swaying back and forth and using my arms. I've never really measured my cadence, but I'm sure it is sub 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am putting some longer rides in reasonably hilly country with smooth roads. My knees don't ache afterward. Sometimes my shoulders ache a bit after the ride but doesn't feel damaging. I have been doing hills/grades in top gear as my own &quot;check off the list&quot; challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If proper form (for standing at least) and in good shape, am I abusing my body/knees?  Up to now they feel great, but I would hate to have &quot;reality&quot; crashing upon my knees someday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T10:58:48.117" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T12:32:14.680" Title="Does pedaling while standing damage my knees even if I don't feel pain?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11299" CreationDate="2012-09-14T04:10:27.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any Shimano product which is used for measuring cadence with these particular drive train components, but you can find many good products that will work for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having tried &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/CC-RD200/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wired&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/CC-RD400DW/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wireless&lt;/a&gt; cyclocomputers, my preference is wireless, but both types work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sigmasport.com/us/produkte/bikecomputer/topline_2009_wireless/bc1609_sts_cadence/?flash=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;good wireless cyclocomputers&lt;/a&gt; cheaply (that one has average cadence), so why go hardwired? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T04:10:27.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-14T05:29:23.850" Score="-1" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought this bike used, and it has incredibly narrow handlebars.  I don't like the feeling of things being so tight, and I'm looking to replace them.  Also, I think my bike fit is a little off (I put too much weight on the bars), so I'm looking for something that'll bring up my hand position as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What suggestions do you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2674" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T11:41:39.970" Title="Gary Fisher 09 Cobia - Handlebar Upgrade" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11305" CreationDate="2012-09-14T08:42:04.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that there is a big problem with riding a bike while standing. It won't be as damaging to your knees as for example running because you don't receive any shocks. You only change the load of your body from one side to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be strenuous though, riding a bike without sitting down will put more strain on the lower back and shoulders. I had to ride my bike home for 8km when my saddle was stolen once (long time ago when I was a kid) and it really killed me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportlantis.com/cycling/randy-ross-adult-workit-stepper-bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stepper bikes&lt;/a&gt; though that are intended for standing while riding, maybe you like the idea. They work a bit different of course, instead of a cyclic motion they make use of the motion you might be familiar with from the fitness studios cardio steppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4891" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T08:42:04.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11307" CreationDate="2012-09-14T11:41:39.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think any kind of riser bar should help you out, but what you end up with is going to be highly dependent on your budget and riding style.  You can easily spend over a hundred bucks on a pair of handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need to find the diameter of current bars, to ensure the new ones fit your stem.  Yours should be either 25.4 or 31.8 mm (more likely 31.8 for recent builds).  I suspect you'll find a lot more riser bars available in the 31.8mm size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 20mm rise is sufficient and you have a 31.8 mm stem, these are on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Race-Face-Atlas-AM-Handlebar-OE-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sale&lt;/a&gt;.  I'm currently riding crank brothers' &lt;a href=&quot;http://crankbrothers.com/bars_cobalt3.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cobalt 3&lt;/a&gt; bars that only have a 15mm rise but they are perfect for me.  I have friends who swear by Easton's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eastoncycling.com/en-us/mountain/products/bars/all-mountain/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;monkey bars&lt;/a&gt; like the EA50/70 as well - these are available with 20-40 mm of rise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T11:41:39.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11305" CreationDate="2012-09-14T12:07:36.183" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standing to pedal won't damage your knees. Supporting and propelling you when you are standing is exactly what knees are designed to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anything standing is better for your knees than sitting. When you are sitting down their motion is limited because the top and bottoms of your legs are 'fixed' in position. When you stand your knees and hips can move freely which is a more natural movement. Watch a child riding a bike and you'll notice they naturally spend a lot of time standing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standing pedalling does require more core and upper body strength than seated pedalling and maybe that's why your shoulders are aching check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikejames.com&quot;&gt;BikeJames.com&lt;/a&gt; if you are interested in exercises help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside standing pedalling is less efficient than seated pedalling but it lets you put out more power. If you compare top level riders in pretty much any form of competitive cycling you'll see that they spend a lot more time standing up than a comparable recreational rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T12:07:36.183" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1103" CreationDate="2012-09-14T13:54:32.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclinginfo.co.uk/blog/5562/cycling/average-speeds-cycling/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an article&lt;/a&gt; with average speeds for various different cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing longer than 100km distances, I find it useful to guide by heart rate not speed. Pick a sustainable heart rate and stick to it, regardless of momentary or average speed. In long distances, if it's not racing with tactics and all, it is important to go steady. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="679" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T13:54:32.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2012-09-14T14:12:14.557" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree 100% with bike guy, the spring on the lever is there for a reason and that is to return the lever to is opening position. Replacing that spring is a little tricky but is cheaper than replacing the whole cable. Try it and leave a feedback to see who was right&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5027" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T14:12:14.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-14T15:24:22.273" Score="5" ViewCount="29464" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever since I bought my hybrid bike the handlebars creak. It is worse when torquing them such as climbing a hill, but just shifting my weight on the bars will make them creak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem gets much worse in hot weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bracket is as tight as I can make it. Is there any thing I can do to stop this annoying noise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5028" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T23:29:17.320" Title="How to stop handlebar from creaking" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2012-09-14T15:30:09.360" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having the same issue with my Cantilever brakes on my cyclocross bike (the brakes would stick and not return). My problem was not the brake lever or the springs on the brakes themselves. My brake pads were not engaging flat on the rim and created a lip on the brake pad. Park tool website has a great image at the end of the article for both Cantilever and Linear Pull (V-Brakes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h9NkI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;V-Brake with worn pad&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This little ridge was catching on the edge of the rim and not releasing the brake. I was able to take them off, use a razor blade and shave the ridge and adjusted the location to connect flat on the rim too, and my brakes no longer stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T15:30:09.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11314" CreationDate="2012-09-14T15:39:43.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you positive it's coming from the handlebar to stem interface? Creaking sounds are notoriously hard to diagnose. It's highly possible that the noise could be from the stem to steer tube interface or your headset or the spacers on your steer tube or topcap or another source, while it may sound like it's coming from your handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be cautious with making things &quot;as tight as I can make it&quot; as you may risk over-tightening the part and risking more damage to your bike and/or components. If you are unfamiliar with how hard to tighten bolts, you should consult your owner's manual, the part manufacturers technical documents or simply take your bike into a reputable mechanic to properly tighten everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T15:39:43.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10976" CreationDate="2012-09-14T16:50:31.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclehero.com/gb/jagwire-4-5mm-housing-hose-loop-guide-cable-dca059.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclehero.com/gb/jagwire-4-5mm-housing-hose-loop-guide-cable-dca059.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T16:50:31.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11319" CreationDate="2012-09-14T16:53:23.813" Score="8" ViewCount="1624" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much has bicycle suspension technology evolved in the last 10 years? I am thinking about both rear and front suspension. What have been the major breakthroughs that all bicycle manufacturers are now using, and what sort of improvements have there been to suspension forks from 2002 vs. 2012 as an example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T16:57:04.230" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T08:51:35.463" Title="What are the main improvements in suspension technology in the last 10 years?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11318" CreationDate="2012-09-14T19:28:20.530" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say the biggest change is the shift from coil and oil shocks to air springs. Even at the cheaper end of the market most bikes designed to go uphill will be using air shock suspension. Air suspension is lighter but in the past has performed less well and been more expensive. Over the years price has fallen and performance has improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other big change is the amount of adjustment that can be achieved just by turning a dial. In 2002 I had to adjust the travel of my forks by taking them apart and moving spacers about. To change the rebound I had to use a different spring and to change the damping I had to use a different weight of oil. Now I have dials to adjust all three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lockouts that stop the suspension moving for more efficient climbing have also become widespread and much more reliable. Initially applying too much pressure to the shock while it was locked would break it. Now it will 'blow out' and switch back into non locked mode. Cannondale are taking this a step further in some of their new bikes which offer remotely adjustable travel on the fly from the handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ps. this a great question and would be interesting for other parts of the bike. Bikes has changed massively since the birth of the sport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="4844" LastEditDate="2012-09-15T01:00:23.090" LastActivityDate="2012-09-15T01:00:23.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11314" CreationDate="2012-09-14T19:39:42.040" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has consistently worked for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disassemble everything around the zone of noise suspicion, namely remove the handlebar from the stem and separate every bolt and washer away from each other;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean them with light solvent or oil (the idea is not to degrease, but more to remove dust/rust/dirt and to allow a residual layer of lubrication to remain);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply light oil to a cloth and polish every contacting surface with it (middle of handlebar, stem clamp);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply GREASE to the threads, but not elsewere;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reassemble with proper torque (tight, but not strangled). You'll find out that you get excelent tightening without too much torque when you use a recently cleaned and lubed bolt/washer pair).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that these creaking sounds are caused by micro-movements between dry, dust-affected, under-pressure surfaces. The cleaning and lubing do fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... DONT DO IT if you're using carbon or any non-metal parts! Silicon (or WAX) might work better in this case (after the disassembly and cleaning, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-09-18T19:35:12.293" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T19:35:12.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10376" CreationDate="2012-09-15T15:40:57.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ignoring GPS-derived elevation, the GPS can still be useful.. If you record your ride, then upload your ride to &lt;a href=&quot;http://strava.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt; you see the elevation profile based on a terrain-elevation-database:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IcUTz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Strava elevation profile&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mouse over sections of the elevation-profile, which shows you the grade at that point. The area you mouse-over is indicated on the map as a marker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4gnO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Strava elevation and map connection&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also drag-select a section of your ride and it gives you stats like the average-grade and elevation-gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this doesn't directly tell you the grade of the hill you are cycling up the time, you can quickly learn how to estimate the grade &quot;by feel&quot; (by how hard it is to cycle up), or by memory (by knowing this road is a Strava segment, and what it's average grade is)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastActivityDate="2012-09-15T15:40:57.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1103" CreationDate="2012-09-15T15:47:46.810" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Average speed is extremely dependant on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your fitness (main factor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weather (particularly wind)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road surface quality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interruptions like traffic lights, dog-walkers on bike-lanes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accumulated fatigue over multiple days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How hilly the terrain is (although this can be balanced out by the faster descent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, best way to see is using a GPS and seeing how fast you go.. I've found over the course of about 6-months of riding, my average speed over long rides is around the average of my shorter rides (I'm classifying &quot;long&quot; as around 150-200km, and &quot;short&quot; as maybe 30-80km)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, here is a plot of my distances vs average speed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QBjIw.png&quot; alt=&quot;My average speed vs distance&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the axis's are in km/h and km)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &gt;50km rides averaging 25-30km/h are mostly group rides. Ignoring those, beyond about 80km begin to converge to an average of 20km/h (although at 80km I've ranged from about 15-25km/h, but this includes when I just started riding..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These numbers are all specific to me, and even still they vary (particularly over time):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K7a2k.png&quot; alt=&quot;Speed over time&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These averages are spread over a few different bikes (start to April was on a hybrid bike, April to mid May was on one road bike, and the rest was on a different road bike) - but, the spikes are almost all related to either terrain (there's a large dip in July related to a Strava hill-climbing challenge), fatigue (the dip in August was another Strava challenge, to cycle long distances over consecutive days), or other factors mentioned above&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the rather rambly answer, but it hopefully conveys that average speed depends on a lot of factors, and it's hard to give a specific answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastEditorUserId="4353" LastEditDate="2012-09-17T13:02:39.583" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T13:02:39.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11241" CreationDate="2012-09-15T16:39:24.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cwcrate.com/Plastic-Beer-Crates-p/24-12-4.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Plastic bottle crates&lt;/a&gt; with dividers similar to the ones made of cardboard, but since it's plastic, and probably thicker, it might reduce the noise a bit more.  Also the ones in the link look like they are foldable so would be easy to store when you don't need them. A little on the expensive side, but you could probably shop around and find something cheaper. You could also try building your own dividers out of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corrugated_plastic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;corrugated plastic&lt;/a&gt; or even just corrugated cardboard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-09-15T16:39:24.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11241" CreationDate="2012-09-15T17:51:45.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the problem is the bottles clanking into each other, don't put the crate in flat but somehow tilt it at a 30 degree angle or so, so that gravity holds the bottles against each other. Then wedge your towels into the high end of the crate to keep the bottles from bouncing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-15T17:51:45.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11318" CreationDate="2012-09-15T20:09:56.133" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me (and for others, I think) the greatest paradigm shift (that should become widespread in the near future, my opinion) is the inertial-controlled compression-lockout valve (Fox Terralogic, Specialized BRAIN).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These work as automatic lockouts, which make the bike stable if the rider pushes it down (like pedalling hard on a smoot uphill, or sprinting on road), but allow the suspension to work when some force is applied from below, by means of a moving mass inside the system, which closes or opens the oil valves when it moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there have been advances in compression/rebound valve design, the &quot;full range in half a turn&quot; adjustment dials are great, and some extra-plush, low-stiction anodized coat on stanchions make huge difference, although they are more of quantitative improvements than real game changers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, it is a pity that all these achievements of technology are focused primarily in high-end, performance oriented, racing sports market. But the fact is: every vehicle deserves some suspension system. Commuter bikes suffer badly due to the lack of dedicated suspension systems, be them forks or transport-oriented suspension-equipped frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either for commuting, transporting cargo or even going around with a child seat attached, not every road is smooth (in my city, most of the streets are definitely NOT smooth), but if you want to put a good suspension fork on a commuter, you end up spending too much, having a part that needs constant maintenance, and having serious compatibility problems with fenders, racks, etc. That could be the NEXT revolution: designing suspension systems with the utilitarian bicycle culture in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-09-16T17:51:46.377" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T17:51:46.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12524" CreationDate="2012-09-15T20:26:35.833" Score="4" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of my last ride the back brake started rubbing hard on the disc. It almost feels like the brake cable had popped out of the lever. The bike is relatively new to me, and I am not very familiar with disc brakes. I can take it to the shop, but I wanted to be able to fix myself in case it happens again. Any ideas on how to fix, or what caused this? It is a Specialized Epic with Avid brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5034" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:08:31.550" Title="Disc brake freezing at end of ride" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-16T03:06:21.363" Score="0" ViewCount="2593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a Miyata 912 going for $300 on Craigslist. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/pdfs/bstone6001985.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;what&lt;/a&gt; I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miyata&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;read&lt;/a&gt;, it should be a 1970-80s road bike on the high end but supposedly built quite strongly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a bike to commute to class and work so I definitely want:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wider road tires (I'm assuming that this handles bumps better than skinner road tires)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fenders (mud/sand/gravel/dirt/etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bicycle racks (if I want to carry more stuff)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the Miyata 912 be able to take that and how will those changes affect its handling? Does it make sense to use it as a commuter bike even?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4984" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T20:43:54.683" Title="Will a Miyata 912 be able to take wider tires/bicycle racks/fenders and still handle well?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11299" CreationDate="2012-09-16T12:57:29.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Shimano Flight Deck computers use 'virtual' cadence. There are switches fitted to the shifters that tell the computer which gears you have selected. The wheel sensor tells the computer how fast you are travelling. The computer works what your cadence is from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user400" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T12:57:29.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11238" CreationDate="2012-09-16T13:27:39.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this kind of noise and spent hours trying to find it. Changed the pedals, changed the bottom bracket, fiddled with the headset/stem etc. Eventually decided to put spare wheels on.Changed the rear, still there, changed the front - silence :) Put best front wheel back on and still silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get my bike into the car without putting the seats down I have to take the front wheel off. I've had this kind of click since and loosening the front quick release reseating the wheel and tightening it again always fixes the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user400" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T13:27:39.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12324" CreationDate="2012-09-16T14:07:39.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right on the money in terms of commuting upgrades. Buying used bikes is a great way to go about acquiring a ride, but sometimes bikes need a bit of refitting for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.miyatacatalogs.com/2007/12/miyata-catalog-1981.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1981 Miyata Catalog&lt;/a&gt;. Models from year to year are generally similar, so this should be accurate for most late 70s early 80s 912s. This bike is described as a &quot;fast sport rider for racing-oriented cyclists,&quot; meaning that it isn't going to fit fat tires, fenders, or racks too easily. What is important is the distance between the tire and the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to get away with a 700c x32 tire and narrow, metal fenders. Metal fenders are a bit more expensive than plastic, but can be bent to fit into tight places. Note that most fender manufacturers specify 10mm clearance between the tire and the fender, so as to prevent a pebble or twig from tearing your fenders off. There may or may not be braze-ons for fenders or racks, but that is easy to get around. Lots of bike shops sell metal clamps that secure everything to the stays quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're comfortable with the largest possible tire being ~32mm, go for it! Understand, however, that bikes designed for skinny tires and no fenders may be difficult to fit. If you decide not to, look for Touring or Sports-Touring models which always have clearance and braze-ons (In this catalog, the 1000 and 610 are both touring models).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One alternative option that will require more work is to convert the wheel size from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;700c to 650b&lt;/a&gt;. This will involve new wheels and long-reach brakes, but it will allow you to run fatter tires and fenders with no issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T14:07:39.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="128" CreationDate="2012-09-16T16:48:53.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone who has changed tubular tires often will attest that it is not difficult, and the process can actually be much faster than changing a clincher, depending on the clincher and the rim in question.  Proper glue application (not too much, but still enough) and using the right glue, are very important steps.  Unless the glue is very old, the remaining glue, after the flat tire has been stripped, will hold a new tire on for most triathlon riding as long as you avoid sharp cornering and strong leans.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have actually toured through Europe on a pannier equipped race bike, using sew-ups, and had great success and a wonderful ride.  You just cannot beat the ride that tubulars give you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as repairing the sew-ups go, of course this is done at a later time and hopefully you'll find someone at a shop who does it on a regular basis, to do it for you.  But it is really not that difficult to do.  However, repairing your flat tubular in the field is out of the question.  The idea is to carry a spare tubular tire, or two, and swap it out in the field, and fix the flat later.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage of tubulars is that you will be changing-out the entire tire, and not just the inner tube.  If your flat was caused by something that also damaged the tire itself, and not just the inner tube, then changing out a clincher's inner tube will do little good.  This logic also applies to small pieces of glass or steel that may remain in the tire, difficult to detect, after you have replaced the inner tube.  After changing a clincher inner tube, once you are back on the road, you may experience a second flat due to the small piece of glass in the tire that you did not catch because you were in a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5039" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:45:39.620" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:45:39.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12322" CreationDate="2012-09-16T17:00:29.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ensure the axle is properly placed in the dropout and the quick release is firmly closed. If it's even a little loose, the axle can shift a bit and cause the rotor to be misaligned with the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T17:00:29.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12324" CreationDate="2012-09-16T20:43:54.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike was originally fitted with 27&quot; wheels,(which most 70's to early 80's bikes were) you will be limited to only one or two sizes,1 1/4&quot; and 1 3/8&quot; and tread patterns are also limited. I currently have two bikes running 27&quot; wheels. The 1 1/4&quot; tire is 32mm wide inflated,the 1 3/8&quot; is 29mm inflated. So two tires from two makers and the smaller is the widest. As has been stated there were no standards. My Mafacs calipers are at the bottom of the slot just to reach the brake surface on a 27&quot; wheel. Long reach brakes may not have enough adjustment to position the brake pads correctly if you change to a 650 or 700c wheel. I would say that your best option is to borrow or buy returnable parts to work out all the variables you are going to encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T20:43:54.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5762" CreationDate="2012-09-17T01:40:11.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest visiting the following link at Peter White Cycles. They have comparisons concerning the different types of lights. Hope this may help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T01:40:11.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12346" CreationDate="2012-09-17T01:55:11.453" Score="4" ViewCount="2584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've purchased a RockShox Reverb seat post, and its come with these delightful little Cable/Hose clips.  Since my bike frame only comes with built in cable clips for the brakes and shifters, these little guys allow you to attach your cables to existing cables.  Problem is, I don't know what they are called or where to buy more because I'd like some more :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anyone know what these are called and where I can buy more?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvrFd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cable/Hose management clip&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4347" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-09-17T04:54:55.373" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T10:57:25.610" Title="What is this cable/hose management clip? (picture)" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9536" CreationDate="2012-09-17T12:11:33.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason for replacing the fluid is not because brake performance may have become worse, but to prevent corrosion of brake components due to water in the fluid.  This problem is more severe with DOT type fluid, but can occur with either, especially if the bike is used/stored in wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the fluid about every 5 years would seem to be reasonable -- not a terrible burden, and not being over-zealous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the size of the reservoir is proportional to the size of the overall brake system, and really has little bearing on how rapidly contamination may occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T12:11:33.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12322" CreationDate="2012-09-17T14:58:58.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your brakes are Avid BB7: I use those on my DH bike. I have had the opposite issue: the brake loosing grip are the end of the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case the outboard adjusting knob had been misplaced so it allowed the internal adjusting axle to spin a little. I repositioned the know and noticed it could be easily turned by rubbing it with other things (especially while a bunch of bikes piled together being carried to the top of a DH track). I just have to be careful with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are other factors that can affect these and other models of brake, mainly misalignment. Check whether the caliper is centered on the disc and thati it is holding the pads parallel with disc surface. The easiest way to check (at least for me) is to place the bike on a shadowy place and look through the caliper's gap placing a flashlight on the other side. Look alongside the disc surface (so you just see its border) and examine the disc-pad gap. (As other answer mentions, first check that the entire wheel is properly attached, aligned and tightened)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be approximately 0.5 mm on the outboard pad (this is the one that actually moves when you actuate the lever), For the inboard pad (the static one) it should be as close as possible without touching the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the caliper being properly aligned and the holding bolts being properly tightened, that should be enough. I'm assuming you have no cable issues here, I don't know your particular bike but check if no part of the cable is hooked in a part where it shouldn't and that all housing stops are properly seated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A relatively easy way of aligning the caliper (actually described more precisely on avid manuals) is to loosen the holding bolts just enough for the caliper to move freely. Squeeze the corresponding brake lever and while holding it down, tighten the bolts again. Check and repeat if necessary, but usually one or two attempts are all it takes. The only one thing some manuals do not mention is: Make sure that anything is pushing or pulling the caliper! Sometimes the cable-housing assembly pulls the caliper out of alignment when this procedure is performed (it happened to me on a 2003 SantaCruz Bullit) I just pull the housing to a position where this effect is lessened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:08:31.550" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:08:31.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12382" CreationDate="2012-09-17T15:07:54.557" Score="5" ViewCount="1665" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there LED based dynamo powered lights suitable for night time MTB riding on singletrack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely they would need to have:&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High Brightness, likely 500 lumens or better. Not sure how that translates to LUX used for most dynamo light ratings.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standlight Mode providing several minutes of light while stopped&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be able to produce a relatively consistent output with varying levels of speed.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weather resistsant to handle wet / muddy conditions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using a battery system, but I'm looking for a non-battery alternative that will handle extended night time use without recharging for events such as 24 hour races and off road tours where I might not have a power source to charge lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T13:34:50.057" Title="Are there LED based dynamo powered lights suitable for night time MTB riding on singletrack?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-17T15:21:48.287" Score="1" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1120/how-to-store-a-bike-outside-and-still-avoid-rapid-decay&quot;&gt;How to store a bike outside and still avoid rapid decay?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to store my bike on the balcony. I use it daily and don't mind lugging it up the stairs but I'm tired of leaving it out at the mercy of the elements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my balcony is open, I was thinking of a tarp. Also, I'm in the midwest and winter's coming!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other (cheap) suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T15:28:20.887" Title="Storing bike outdoors" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-09-17T20:14:31.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12337" CreationDate="2012-09-17T15:28:20.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a bike cover with great success in the past. Something like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/732407/topeak-bike-cover,-mediumtb-bikes?preferredSku=7324070023&amp;amp;cm_mmc=cse_froogle-_-%7Badtype%7D-_-product-_-7324070023&amp;amp;mr%3atrackingCode=797B4FFE-FB85-DE11-B7F3-0019B9C043EB&amp;amp;mr%3areferralID=NA&amp;amp;%7Bcopy%3as_kwcid%7D=&amp;amp;mr%3aadType=pla&amp;amp;gclid=COCm_Pr1vLICFec-MgodZmQAvw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak Cover from REI&lt;/a&gt; is great. It covers the bike well and has a self contained pocket that it folds into for easy storage when not in use. There are several similar products that range in price if you're looking for something more cost effective. You will still need to do routine maintenance throughout the winter like lubing your chain, but this will keep a majority of the snow and ice off of your bike while it's being stored outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to lock your bike while it's out there. If you live on a 3rd+ floor it's less of an issue but I've had friends and fellow bike commuters have their bikes stolen off 2nd floor balconies many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T15:28:20.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2012-09-17T17:13:08.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bactine is an  antibacterial with a pain relief formula of some sort in it. I'll swear by it, as i got some rash longboarding a few  weeks ago and after using it once or twice a day for a few days i don't even feel it anymore and it healing faster than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5045" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T17:13:08.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12342" CreationDate="2012-09-17T18:41:56.530" Score="17" ViewCount="24326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do understand why I'm wearing cycling pants all the time. I'm totally used to the pockets in my back of my jerseys and jackets. I understand where my gloves and helmet help. And I could continue going through my wardrobe but there's one more thing I'm seeing all the time: Socks. What's so special about road cycling socks compared to other socks? Ok, they have to make sure my feet don't swim in sweat, but that's no specialty over other kinds. What else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's about other riders laughing at me when I'm on my road bike, well, I can live with that. I simply laugh at them when they finish the track -- just when I'm done showering. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T21:57:01.637" LastActivityDate="2018-03-10T05:43:31.810" Title="What's special about bicycle socks?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12341" CreationDate="2012-09-17T20:03:54.793" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than wicking sweat and drying quickly, there's nothing special about them. Any high quality athletic sock marketed for another sport will be comparable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T20:03:54.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12341" CreationDate="2012-09-17T20:49:25.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only difference I can think of is that some running socks (for example) are thicker and slightly springier under the heel and the ball of the foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be useful when you're pounding the pavement, but probably doesn't add much if you don't have the impact (and would apply as much to elliptical machines as to cycling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt they would waste a significant amount of energy by compressing on the downstroke, it just wouldn't give any particular benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T20:49:25.293" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-18T00:17:26.860" Score="0" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4319/are-bicycle-registration-websites-any-use-for-recovering-stolen-bikes&quot;&gt;Are bicycle registration websites any use for recovering stolen bikes?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or to say, a website where stolen bikes could be reported and anyone could check if for reports of a given brand/model or serial number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mean a police report. A mean an open service with data accesible to any user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T20:22:13.643" Title="Is there a widely used service to report bike theft?" Tags="&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-09-19T01:57:54.960" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4319" CreationDate="2012-09-18T00:53:32.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stolenbicycleregistry.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.stolenbicycleregistry.com&lt;/a&gt; is a free resource to register and track stolen bicycles. The site covers USA and Canada, and allows you to register your bike as stolen, or check a bike that you want to buy to see if it has been reported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following cities have Twitter feeds for their bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/stolenbikestuc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tucson&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/stolenbikessea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seattle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/stolenbikessfo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;San Francisco&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/stolenbikesbrk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Berkeley&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/stolenbikeschi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chicago&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/stolenbikessan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;San Diego&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/stolenbikemarin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marin County&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/stolenbikesphl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Philadelphia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4691" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-09-20T20:22:13.643" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T20:22:13.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12332" CreationDate="2012-09-18T01:00:24.247" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike parts.com lists them as Sram rotating dual line hooks # BPC 147851.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T01:00:24.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12336" CreationDate="2012-09-18T12:53:08.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found two seemingly solid options for dynamo powered lights suitable enough for night riding.  However, I havn't had any personal experience with either, but both claim to be up for the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://supernova-lights.com/en2/products/e3_triple.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SuperNova E3 Triple &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exposurelights.com/product/000098/revo-dynamo-mk1-(new)/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Exposure Lights Revo Dynamo Mk1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these put out about 800 Lumens and offer a paired rear light which is chained through the front light, so they are powered in tandem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For touring, I'd probably also use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.en.tout-terrain.de/accessories/electric-power-supply/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Plug II&lt;/a&gt; to charge my portable devices during the day time. I'd likely try and use a switching setup to enable/disable the usb charger at night when the lights are in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T12:53:08.870" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9807" CreationDate="2012-09-18T13:58:35.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crank arm is most likely loose on the square shaft BB. Remove it, clean it, grease it and retorque it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5051" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T13:58:35.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2012-09-18T14:38:28.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to mention that using a messenger bag is great in terms of security as well. It keeps your belongings close to your body where they can be closely monitored. This is great for cities where crime might be an issue. Rucksacks and Panniers can leave you vulnerable to theft, with your things out of your sight. If you're in the UK, Chapman Bags makes very durable messenger bags: &lt;a href=&quot;http://chapmanbags.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://chapmanbags.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5052" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T14:38:28.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2012-09-18T21:05:08.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just shipped my bike via REI -- they're willing to ship between any two REI stores if you're a member there. The cost breakdown was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$30 -- disassembly and packing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$15 -- shipping charge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$60 -- shipping surcharge for an oversize box&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$6 -- insurance for a $600 bike ($1 insurance for each $100 in declared value)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for a total of $111. In addition, I wasn't a member, so I had to pay a 1-time membership fee; with tax, it came out to $133.10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like I'll have to pay another $30 or so for reassembly on the other end; I'll update this post after that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4052" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T21:05:08.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2012-09-18T23:26:13.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll add to the already, good reasons for using a messenger bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backpacks, I've found, can sometimes stick up too high, making it difficult to&#xA;raise your head; especially if you have an aggressive riding position (which most real messengers have)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Properly packed, a messenger bag can be every bit as comfortable as a backpack.  The myth that the single strap causes back issues is false and I haven't found any research to prove otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5054" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T23:26:13.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12341" CreationDate="2012-09-19T01:02:28.960" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reasons why I stopped using regular cotton socks and started to ONLY use bike-specific socks for long rides (always wearing clipless cycling shoes):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are snug around the ankles and avoid dirt entering the sock. This snugness usually doesn't go away with repeated washing;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are easily cleaned by washing, no matter how dirty, filthy or otherwise rotten they are (you know what I'm talking about);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They dry easily, even during a ride (unfortunately not all shoes behave the same...), or while hanging from the barends overnight, or while taking some sunlight over a lawn during a picnic;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are somewhat anatomic, that meaning mostly the areas around the heel and around the toes;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have the proper length: not so short to allow dirt infiltration and crank/chain bruises, not so long as to look like soccer socks or get tangled with said crank/chain;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are clearly bike-related, usually because they have some bike-related logo (I only buy socks with logos from brands I like and/or use myself, and go to work wearing them occasionally);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd rather leave my money at the LBS than at a soul-less department store;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why would a biker NOT use bike-specific socks if there ARE such socks being sold at all?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T01:02:28.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2012-09-19T01:19:25.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally only use a backpack, but most of my riding is off road recreational, not commuting. I have never see a messenger bag or panniers when out on technical single tracks. Every MTBer I know or have seen either has a backpack or nothing. With a good backpack, when out on a ride, I don't even know its there most of the time, however I sometimes go to the corner shop for milk etc, and just grab the closest backpack - things like the kids school bags are horrible in comparison, I would never use one for a serious ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the disadvantages of backpacks mentioned here are dealt with buy purchasing a high quality cycle specific bag. This includes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mesh ventilation for back to help stop sweating.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hip straps rising higher at the front than a normal backpack  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top of pack profile allows full range of movement with helmet on and head up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bulk of volume low and close to back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major disadvantage of a backpack over a messenger bag is the need to take it off to get into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T01:19:25.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12359" CreationDate="2012-09-19T01:45:23.883" Score="5" ViewCount="25375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hybrid bike that I use for commuting (8k round trip to work). Currently, I wear low-backed converse shoes when biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been biking for about 5 months. After the first 2 months, I started getting &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11273/is-my-bike-fit-a-problem-im-experiencing-achilles-tendon-pain&quot;&gt;Achilles tendon pain&lt;/a&gt;. I read about ankling and think that could be part of the problem. I'm also concerned it could be my shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what type of shoes should a commuter/hybrid biker look into getting? I'm willing to spend about $100-$150.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5056" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T04:49:54.947" Title="What type of shoes should a commuter/road biker use?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12357" CreationDate="2012-09-19T02:13:30.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what I know from personal experience, experience from friends, and from discussion on forums and sites like this one, the shoes are one of the many things about bike equipment about what the answer to the question is &quot;whatever suits you best&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very common for riders to use a lot of very different shoes: sandals for grocery, regular shoes for commuting to work, clipless for trails or long distance, fast rides, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you said, I'd suspect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your bike setup, specifically saddle height, saddle position (fore-aft and tilt), and/or handlebar reach could be &quot;wrong&quot; for you;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are riding too much, or too hard, or without proper rest, or in the wrong gear, or in a bad terrain CONSIDERING that you started to bike for just four months now. Muscles and cardio usually get strong fast, but joints, bones and tendons take more time, so they can having been overused;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I'd suggest you assess the situation by yourself and alter some of these things before blaming the shoes. If it doesn't solve the problem in some weeks, look for a doctor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T02:13:30.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12357" CreationDate="2012-09-19T02:25:00.063" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume those shoes don't have cleats of any sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you currently ride without toe clips?  Adding toe clips might let you maintain a steadier foot position on the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But many regular commuters go in for cleated shoes of some sort, very often the &quot;mountain bike&quot;/touring style with SPD cleats/pedals because they're &quot;walkable&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever, you want a shoe with a relatively stiff sole.  Basically this means a biking shoe of some sort, perhaps the afore-mentioned &quot;mountain bike&quot;/touring style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5XGfx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano MT33 Men&amp;#39;s Multi-Use Touring Cycling Shoes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T02:25:00.063" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3688" CreationDate="2012-09-19T03:40:55.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/cable_hanger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; Surly Cable Hangers&lt;/a&gt; on all my bikes with canti brakes. They have an adjustable barrel to alter the cable tension before the straddle cable hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T03:40:55.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12363" CreationDate="2012-09-19T10:08:29.013" Score="4" ViewCount="4897" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my disc brake pads on my Shimano XT brakes. This seems like a pretty straight forward procedure, and I have all the tools needed except for the pad spacer. Do I need this to install the new pads correctly, and if I do, is there something else I can use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T12:50:56.623" Title="Is a pad spacer needed when installing disc brake pads?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12362" CreationDate="2012-09-19T12:03:56.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pad spacer is intended to prevent you from accidentally closing the brake without the rotor in place.  It is not required, for any part of the adjustment or installation process, as long as you do not need to bleed the brakes, and as long as you refrain from squeezing the lever without a wheel in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need to bleed the brake, it is convenient, but not required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T12:03:56.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12357" CreationDate="2012-09-19T12:34:54.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a female bike commuter, I find that shoes with a low chunky heel, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zappos.com/munro-american-carroll-black-leather-black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;something like this&lt;/a&gt;, work rather similarly to toe clips, keeping my foot on the pedal without me having to work at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, my next bike will probably have toe clips... it's possible to find tallish ones that will take street shoes well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T12:34:54.490" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12380" CreationDate="2012-09-19T12:41:07.180" Score="2" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt; -- I am NOT asking about saddles with hole (cutout).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some saddles from Selle Italia have very distinctive stripe, take for example Selle Italia SL:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lW9Y1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question is&lt;/strong&gt; -- does such stripe form some kind of channel? I.e. is the area softer (here it is denoted by black) than the rest of the saddle (here in white)? Or maybe it is embedded (the surface is lower than the rest of the saddle)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T12:46:09.487" Title="Does stripe in Selle Italia saddles form a channel?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2012-09-19T15:25:45.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for the same thing for a while. Rotor makes a ring that might be of interest: A Q-Ring (oval shape to maximize power stroke) in a 56t in a 130bcd.  That ring goes up to a 59t at the largest point. They say that it is effectively a 58T ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5062" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T15:25:45.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-19T15:33:50.413" Score="4" ViewCount="4169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek Elance 330 from the 80s and love it!  However, I find myself needing something that can handle fire roads (gravel jeep paths) and am wondering if it is worth the effort.   Also, if it would result in an effective ride.  I am fine with the higher center of gravity, won't be doing any rock hopping, and won't be buying a new bike.  Has anyone converted their steel frame?  What experience can you share?  Thanks!  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5063" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T17:28:05.923" Title="Is it worth converting a steel frame Trek Roadie to a Cyclocross?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8802" CreationDate="2012-09-19T15:51:56.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In regards to your question of 'easier to rust', I have a Trek Elance 330 from the 80s which has a steel frame and not an inch of rust to be found anywhere.  It has taken me many miles in full comfort, and I enjoy riding it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Best of luck in your travels!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5063" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T15:51:56.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12367" CreationDate="2012-09-19T16:06:43.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a conversion on an old steel Schwinn, and these look similar. I'm not sure how in-depth you want to go, but at the most basic level you only have to worry about two issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire clearance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake clearance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire Clearance&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The most popular size of cyclocross tire is 700x32. You may find that a knobby cyclocross tire will fit between your fork, but not clear the bottom bracket or chainstays in the rear triangle or vice versa. If you have a tire clearance issue with the rear triangle I would abandon hope right then. If the rear is fine but the front is tight, you can consider a new fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake clearance&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The brakes on that bike may not have arms that are wide enough or long enough to properly place the pads on the rim without touching the tire. IF that's the case you can check a touring source like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/Brakes-s/44.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rivendell&lt;/a&gt; for brakes with longer, curvy arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: If the bike came with 27 inch rims, you may have a hard time finding tires and your clearance issues may be even tighter. If that's the case you can look at switching to 700 wheels, but you may find on an older bike that it expects a narrower hub. With a steel frame  you can consider carefully bending the forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it worth it?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Well - to me it's worth it if you will ride it. Start with the tires - that's the cheapest first step. Move on to brakes and fork only if you have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T16:06:43.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12367" CreationDate="2012-09-19T16:55:25.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On first thought, I would say NO due to the lack of cantilever brake mounts. Caliper brakes which come on this bike limit tire choice a lot.  But if you don't plan to do traditional cross racing and are just looking to ride this bike on fire roads and gravel paths, then I think you can make it work fine.  The issues you'd have in a cross race would be dealing with a buildup of mud and leaves between your tire and brake / fork and it may be harder to get traction on loose ground, mud, and sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this bike originally shipped with 700x28c tires, so you may be able to bump up the tire size a little bit.  You may want to try some 700x30c tires like Michelin Mud Cross tires. Even if you can't get bigger tires squeezed in there, I take my road bike with 700x28 tires on this kind of terrain all the time, so just go with the biggest thing you can fit. You'll enjoy the ride a lot more on fat tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also consider throwing on some Tektro R539 brakes which should clear 32c tires if your current brakes don't. This is what ships on the All-city Mr. Pink which claims 32c clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a great link to a vintage trek catalog with the orignal specs for the bike:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintage-trek.com/TrekBrochure1987.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vintage-trek.com/TrekBrochure1987.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-09-19T17:28:05.923" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T17:28:05.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12377" CreationDate="2012-09-19T17:26:51.040" Score="4" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone know of a bike trailer that is narrow (like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobgear.com/yak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BOB Yak&lt;/a&gt;) for kids? We have a co-pilot trailer, but the width is pretty wide, often maxing out a sidewalk making it hard to pass or be passed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have twin 4 year old boys and need an easier way to get them to and from school. Its a bit too far for them to ride on their own yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T08:04:32.870" Title="Inline trailers" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;kids&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-19T18:08:49.333" Score="8" ViewCount="1161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride regularly for exercise in New York City but do not race. I currently ride on a steel frame that handles the rough roads easily. I want to buy a carbon bike and am torn between a &quot;classics&quot; bike like a Domane or a Roubaix and a race bike. My rides are usually around 2-3 hours so comfort is nice but not essential. I appreciate quickness in traffic and am comfortable with a race bike geometry but am worried about durability. Any advice on how to think about these trade offs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5065" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T15:37:51.283" Title="How to choose between a race bike like a Madone and a classics bike like a Domane" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12381" CreationDate="2012-09-19T18:32:35.650" Score="18" ViewCount="9620" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you see descriptions of mountain bikes they are usually described as XC, trail, enduro etc. and have different geometries based on what sort of category they fall into. What are the defining characteristics of the bikes and their geometries for the different categories of riding? What makes a trail bike a trail bike and not an XC bike for instance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T13:45:44.370" Title="What features of a mountain bike's geometry gives it different characteristics?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12373" CreationDate="2012-09-19T20:03:19.650" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you answered your own question when you stated &quot;I don't race.&quot;  I know many in our club who enjoy the Roubaix.  I personally prefer riding my steel Soma ES over my carbon race bike for most things, including fast club rides.  Don't get me wrong, a twitchy race bike is great in a crit, but the other non-race bikes have had their design optimized for non-race road riding.  It is too easy to get up caught up in all the bike porn the industry pushes.  A solid, well sorted, well maintained, properly fitted road bike of any class and age can be a great riding tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end this is just all opinion, but I would be careful not to get caught up in the industry's push for &quot;race&quot; performance, which only serves a small minority of road riders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T20:03:19.650" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12378" CreationDate="2012-09-20T00:08:41.767" Score="5" ViewCount="3441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old road bike with a quill stem and I want to raise the stem. After raising it to where I want it, the stem has about an inch between the high end of the expander nut and the top of the headset.  I looked for markings on the stem and didn't see any indicating how much should be inserted.  Is there a minimum amount that should be inserted into the headtube to ensure my safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T03:02:23.153" Title="How deep does a quill stem need to be inserted?" Tags="&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12372" CreationDate="2012-09-20T00:28:14.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how comfortable your kids are on a bike, you could get something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trail-a-bike.com/products/trail-a-bikes/folder-tandem/&quot;&gt;Trail-a-Bike Tandem&lt;/a&gt;  It's as narrow as a regular bike.  I don't have any experience with it, but it seems like it might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xtracycle.com/&quot;&gt;Xtracycle&lt;/a&gt; also have various &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xtracycle.com/cargo-bicycles/xtracycle-cargo-bicycles/xtracycle-freeradical.html/&quot;&gt;bolt on longtail attachments&lt;/a&gt; for regular bikes. I'm not sure if two four year olds would be too heavy on a longtail, but it could be an option. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jpbikeresearch.com/2009/10/riding-with-my-kids/&quot;&gt;this guy&lt;/a&gt; seems to do it.  Wouldn't be something you'd want to take on and off all the time like a trailer, but if you aren't doing any serious tours you could ride around on it without the kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-09-20T00:40:41.583" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T00:40:41.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12376" CreationDate="2012-09-20T00:56:41.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I measured five quill stems that I have, three steel and two aluminum. The overall lengths vary from 5 1/2 to 6 1/4&quot; (about 14 to 16 cm). The minimum insertion length was 2.5 to 3.0 inches (about 6.5 to 7.5 cm). There was not a consistant ratio of length to minimum insertion. It is possible that the insertion length increased on newer bikes due to safety/liability concerns. If you haven't got at least 2.5&quot; (6.5cm) I would shop around for a longer quill or one that has an angled stem that will give you the height you need. An alternative is an adapter that inserts like a quilled stem but allows the use of threadless stems. The availability  and variety of lengths and angles on modern stems will give you more options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="43557" LastEditDate="2020-05-01T03:02:23.153" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T03:02:23.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12376" CreationDate="2012-09-20T02:30:51.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a minimum, the entire &quot;wedge&quot; must be inside the tube.  Beyond that, the wedge should be far enough away from the top of the tube that the force of the wedge (which is effectively trying to tear open the tube) will not be close enough to the tube end to split the tube end.  I would put this latter distance at maybe 1.5&quot;, &lt;em&gt;measured from the top of the wedge to the top of the tube&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inserting more than that just doubles-up the stiffness of the two members, and reduces the length of the lever arm that would tend to bend things -- making for a stiffer/stronger setup, but no fundamental difference vs the roughly 1.5&quot; insertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T02:30:51.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12365" CreationDate="2012-09-20T12:46:09.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, no. The leather/lorica/covering has no bearing on the shape of the saddle. They make a lot of versions of each design specifically for bike manufacturers with custom designed coverings in addition to their standard covering design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make quite a few saddles with grooves, without grooves, with and without cutouts. It's not entirely clear which model this is from your image or description as they do not have an &quot;SL&quot; model on their current product listing. They do have an &quot;SLR&quot; line and the shape appears to be of the &quot;SLR monolink&quot; variety which has both a non groove and groove model within it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated above in the comments, it's best to go to your local shop and ask that if they do not have the item in stock, that they order one for you. Most will oblige because they can send items back if they are in unused condition. Some will ask for a deposit as a &quot;holding&quot; fee to ensure that you don't ask them to order a bunch of stuff and never come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T12:46:09.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12374" CreationDate="2012-09-20T12:50:03.010" Score="21" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shorter the distance between the bottom bracket and saddle lowers pedalling efficiency, but increases standover height which gives you more room to throw the bike around.  This feature gets more pronounced as the riding style the bike is designed for becomes more aggressive i.e. an enduro frame will sacrifice some pedalling efficiency for stability over very rough downhill terrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A longer top tube leans the rider forward centring the weight distribution more, this gives better stability in the air and over rough terrain, but causes the bike to feel a little less manoeuvrable because it's harder to pull the front up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shorter chainstays allow the front of the bike to pull up easier because the pedals are closer to the rear axle (the pivot point when pulling the front up).  Aggressive bikes that want the stability of the longer top tube often shorten the chainstays to keep the bike feeling more nimble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A higher bottom bracket lifts the centre of gravity up making the bike more difficult to corner, but a low bike is a bike that scrapes rocks more...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A steeper head angle results in a more responsive, lighter feeling steering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to give an XC example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pure XC bike will have a large BB to saddle height to maximise pedal efficiency, therefore a low standover height, but this isn't too much of a sacrifice as an XC bike is not aimed at very rough terrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Often rather than a long top tube, they have a slightly shorter one and use a longer stem.  This keeps the weight forward so the front doesn't keep lifting when pedalling hard up hill, but keeps the steering feeling light (not always desirable...).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Longer chainstays for the same reason as above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steep headangle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst an enduro:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will have a low BB to saddle height so it can be thrown around over very rough terrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A long top tube for the extra stability.  An enduro bike can't use the long stem trick to minimise the top tube length, because long stems make the steering feel 'overactive' which is horrible on rough terrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short chainstays to mitigate the long tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly slacker head angle because it makes the bike more stable when going downhill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most MTB frame styles have roughly the same BB height, as everyone wants a better cornering bike and it's difficult to pedal over rough terrain anyway.  The only exception I think of are pure downhilling frames, where a very low BB height is desired but to minimise pedal smashes, shorter crank lengths are the norm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Headangles tend to quite steep on most MTB frames even on very different styles, for example XC and dirt jump frames have similar headtube angles.  Once again the notable exception are downhilling frames, which have very slack headangles; although this for improving stability when on steep descents (it's harder to go over the bars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is an oversimplification.  In the real world the parts play off each other, and their characteristics will change as a bike moves through the rear travel (if it's got any of course).  Also the above are frame characteristics; the length of stem, width of the bars, length of cranks, height of forks, etc. all play their part in the overall feel just as much as the frame does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastEditorUserId="2358" LastEditDate="2012-09-21T12:09:17.660" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T12:09:17.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12336" CreationDate="2012-09-20T13:34:50.057" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have been using the Supernova e3 Triple for night-time singletrack missions for the past two winters.....all I can say is awesome, completely awesome. 870 Lumens. bright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a Shimano Alfine dynamo hub and built a complete 'night wheel' with a DT 4.2d rim, it has rubber and a rotor mounted so swap-over time is very quick. We have months of mud, ice and snow here and never once had a problem with the high quality Supernova connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot recomend this set-up enough. with the E3 rear light you are also nice a safe for the Asphalt connectors between the trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5067" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T13:34:50.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12373" CreationDate="2012-09-20T15:37:51.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask yourself a question...if you end up getting a Roubaix, for example, will you buy it and still be hankering after a carbon frame? If that's the case then perhaps it would be better to get the carbon frame now rather than to get a bike, be not entirely satisfied with it, and end up buying a carbon bike anyway in a year or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just mention this perspective because that's exactly what happened to me. Nothing to do with what you actually need, nothing to do with whether you'll race or not, in fact quite irrational. But that's how many people think (and of course the manufacturers know this - those $10,000 bikes sitting at the top of their range aren't aimed at the professionals, but at hobbyists with money to spare).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only concrete thing I can add is that I previously owned a 2010 Trek Alpha 2.3 - same geometry as the Madone but an alu frame. Obviously we're all different shapes and sizes but I found it easily comfortable enough for long, six hour rides, so I doubt you'd have a problem comfort-wise. And durability? Well, look at the warranty periods the manufacturers offer on their frames and that should give you an idea of what they think the odds are of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T15:37:51.283" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11146" CreationDate="2012-09-20T18:13:38.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;natural&quot; riding position would be one with the following criteria:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your knee never fully extends (locks out) when the crank is at &quot;dead bottom center&quot;; basically in line with the seat tube&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can sit mostly upright when on the flat part of bars.  You have a comfortable slight bend in your elbow when on the hoods.  You can reach the drops without your knees hitting your chest/stomach/elbows.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When in either the hoods or the drops there is little upward or downward bend in your back.  Its just in a neutral, comfortable, position.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You feel no uncomfortable pressure on your perineum&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your knees are (relatively close to) over the pedal spindle with the crank arm level.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there are millions of ways to get this position depending on frame size, geometry, seat post height, stem length, handle bar drop, etc.  Not to mention your personal flexibility and level of fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your second question, you generally know a fram is too small if you must extend your seatpost beyond the manufacturers limits or you must use a stem that is longer than about 130mm or with a rise of more than about 12 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these things should signal that you are trying to make the bike &quot;bigger&quot; by adding length to parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:  In regards to your comment about a &quot;set back&quot; seatpost, I would add this to the list of &quot;ways you know a bike isn't the right size&quot;.  You are effectively trying to lengthen the seat tube.  Unfortunately, this will put your weight heavily on the back wheel and will effect steering/control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5069" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T18:13:38.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11291" CreationDate="2012-09-20T23:05:06.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In California a tricycle is a 'bicycle'.  For day time operations the only real requirement is that one wheel can skid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;39000. &quot;Bicycle,&quot; for the purposes of this division, means any&#xA;device upon which a person may ride, which is propelled by human&#xA;power through a system of belts, chains, or gears having either&#xA;two or three wheels (one of which is at least 20 inches in&#xA;diameter) or having a frame size of at least 14 inches, or having&#xA;four or more wheels.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equipment Requirements&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;21201. (a) No person shall operate a bicycle on a roadway unless it&#xA;is equipped with a brake which will enable the operator to make one&#xA;braked wheel skid on dry, level, clean pavement.&#xA;&#xA;(b) No person shall operate on the highway a bicycle equipped with&#xA;    handlebars so raised that the operator must elevate his hands&#xA;    above the level of his shoulders in order to grasp the normal&#xA;    steering grip area.&#xA;&#xA;(c) No person shall operate upon a highway a bicycle that is of a&#xA;    size that prevents the operator from safely stopping the&#xA;    bicycle, supporting it in an upright position with at least one&#xA;    foot on the ground, and restarting it in a safe manner.&#xA;&#xA;(d) A bicycle operated during darkness upon a highway, a sidewalk&#xA;    where bicycle operation is not prohibited by the local&#xA;    jurisdiction, or a bikeway, as defined in Section 890.4 of the&#xA;    Streets and Highways Code, shall be equipped with all of the&#xA;    following:&#xA;&#xA;(1) A lamp emitting a white light that, while the bicycle is in&#xA;    motion, illuminates the highway, sidewalk, or bikeway in front&#xA;    of the bicyclist and is visible from a distance of 300 feet in&#xA;    front and from the sides of the bicycle.&#xA;&#xA;(2) A red reflector on the rear that shall be visible from a&#xA;    distance of 500 feet to the rear when directly in front of&#xA;    lawful upper beams of headlamps on a motor vehicle.&#xA;&#xA;(3) A white or yellow reflector on each pedal, shoe, or ankle&#xA;    visible from the front and rear of the bicycle from a distance&#xA;    of 200 feet.&#xA;&#xA;(4) A white or yellow reflector on each side forward of the center&#xA;    of the bicycle, and a white or red reflector on each side to the&#xA;    rear of the center of the bicycle, except that bicycles that are&#xA;    equipped with reflectorized tires on the front and the rear need&#xA;    not be equipped with these side reflectors.&#xA;&#xA;(e) A lamp or lamp combination, emitting a white light, attached to&#xA;    the operator and visible from a distance of 300 feet in front&#xA;    and from the sides of the bicycle, may be used in lieu of the&#xA;    lamp required by paragraph (1) of subdivision (d).&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In New York State you have to have a bell or similar device on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think the real question to ask yourself is &quot;will a Police Officer think it is legal?&quot;.  If they think your tricycle is unsafe they will stop you whether it is legal or not, as they, most likely, should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4204" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T23:05:06.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11291" CreationDate="2012-09-20T23:30:34.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the Wisconsin State Bicycling Laws:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/safety/vehicle/bicycle/docs/bikelaws.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/safety/vehicle/bicycle/docs/bikelaws.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;340.01(5) defines a bicycle thusly: &quot;Bicycle&quot; means every vehicle propelled by the feet acting upon pedals and having wheels any 2 of which are not less than 14 inches in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it makes no mention of where or how the machine was manufactured, it sounds like your tricycle (and its rider) will be held to the same legal standard as any other bicycle. The wheel size requirement means that if two wheels are larger than 14 inches, it's a bicycle. My guess is that this is intended to rule out kids' &quot;Big Wheels&quot; and the types of tricycles that a 5 year old might ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it's worth reading the entire document. I didn't bother because I don't live in Wisconsin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that local municipalities can pass further laws defining or restricting bicycles as long as they don't conflict with the state laws. So you'll want to check those as well. Those are sometimes hard to locate on the internet. If you have can't find them online, check out your public library. They usually try to archive local information like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as others have mentioned, the sidewalks are often illegal and even more often dangerous places to ride. If you do so, do so with great caution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T23:30:34.423" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11146" CreationDate="2012-09-21T05:28:50.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two quick and easy points to remember as a rough rule of thumb which 80% of the people you see out there ride a bicycle don't seem to realise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) put your heel square on the middle of the pedal, your leg should be straight and only just able to touch the pedal. Of course you don't cycle on your heel of your foot! But the ball of it, which means a greater length and thus your knee would never actually lock in actual cycling unlike in this quick and easy little &quot;test&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) while actually cycling don't lock your elbows! Transmits too much road shock straight up your arms, leading to soreness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5072" LastEditorUserId="4548" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T18:41:53.877" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T18:41:53.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12357" CreationDate="2012-09-21T05:34:10.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I HIGHLY recommend cycling shoes with cleats and the appropriate pedals for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is AMAZING! You get firm  contact with the pedals when you're spinning (you are averaging 85+ RPM, right?) plus the stiffness of the soles means much better efficiency in transmitting the energy from the leg to the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only do a very tiny amount of walking and have a pair of work shoes at your workplace (or are bringing your own) then road shoes are just fine, however if neither of those hold true then get MTB shoes (is what I used while I was a bicycle courier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5072" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T05:34:10.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12357" CreationDate="2012-09-21T13:09:45.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride the same distance. And normally im a huge advocate for being clipped in both road biking and mountain biking. But for commuting i really like just having flat steel pedals with some teeth. I wear what ever shoe i feel like for the day. I ride a hybrid bike as well and often wear flip flops, running shoes or dress shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proper riding position and a general level of cycling fitness should be more than enough to avoid leg pain. Also making sure you pedal with the ball of your foot centered on the pedal. I ride 200k a week between road cycling and mountain biking. So my commute is a bit more leisurely as I dont want to be sweaty and tired by the time i get there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T13:09:45.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12423" CreationDate="2012-09-21T18:42:33.160" Score="8" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my bikes had the brake pads positioned poorly and they developed a pretty pronounced lip where the pad hung off machined braking surface on one side. The bike is using cantilever brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These brakes have great stopping power, but It's hard to adjust the pads since one of them has an uneven surface due to the protruding lip.  Is there any way to cut off, grind off, sand off, or otherwise remove the extra material from the brake pad to make it even again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T21:17:56.487" Title="There is a lip on my brake pad from bad positioning. Can I remove the lip?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12357" CreationDate="2012-09-21T20:13:43.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others said, you really want something that allows you to walk. Take a look at mountain biking shoes. Regarding cleats or not, get both! I have this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/764688/shimano-a530-spd-sport-road-pedals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/764688/shimano-a530-spd-sport-road-pedals&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and they are awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T20:13:43.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11123" CreationDate="2012-09-21T21:49:38.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rollers (and trainers in general) chewing up tires isn't uncommon as indicated in this answer on a related question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/10748/4239&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/10748/4239&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As indicated, just use cheap tires for your rollers. I ride them in the winter and I've never really noticed that the rollers chew up the tires much faster than the the snow, ice, salt, and cinders on the roads do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the wheelbase goes, you can  find the wheelbase range for rollers in the specs on some sites. You might have to dig around though. For example, nashbar.com listed the specs for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_520822_-1___&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; rollers even though the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleops.com/products/rollers.html?page=shop.product_details&amp;amp;flypage=flypage_images.tpl&amp;amp;product_id=224&amp;amp;category_id=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer's page&lt;/a&gt; did not. I'm sure it could be found in the product manual as well, but I didn't dig that deeply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, almost &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; sort of tread pattern on your tires will make the rollers &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; loud. And of course, the bigger the knobs, the louder it will be. If you're going to put a mountain bike on them, you'll definitely want slicks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T21:49:38.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11107" CreationDate="2012-09-22T05:49:05.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that they're unnecessary. Given the prevalence of the modern two-piece crank/external bottom bracket combo, what's the point? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crank can be removed with an allen wrench and maybe - if it's especially tight -  a wooden club. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the bottom bracket on a two-piece crankset is easier to work on. The BB tool is heavy and bulky tool and you could probably limp along until you found a bike shop that would let you borrow one. Barring that, it can probably removed with a strap wrench (super cheap at any hardware store) and maybe something to provide extra grip (e.g., twigs) in the grooves. I've personally installed BBs with strap wrenches and they've lasted a month or two before requiring attention. It's not ideal, but it's workable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth mentioning that loose bottom bracket shell isn't likely to cause catastrophic failure over a few days or even weeks of riding. Especially with a two-piece crankset where the very design limits it from loosening too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, you're talking about a much more reliable (and rapidly becoming more universal) crankset that only (maybe) requires a single specialized tool, and could most likely work well enough until you happen to stumble across that tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2012-09-22T21:41:57.170" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T21:41:57.170" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11017" CreationDate="2012-09-22T11:42:27.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what kind of key is used on your specific lock.  The only image I can find of a OnGuard key shows it to be a slotted key similar to recent automotive keys, so most locksmiths should have the equipment to duplicate it.  The only question is whether they can get the correct blank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locksmiths can also duplicate the barrel-style keys used on many older bike locks, if they can find the right blank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I see a cheap OnGuards available at Target for $19.95 (with others ranging up to $80), while the new key is likely to cost upwards of $10.  So it may be best to just buy another lock (which comes with at least two keys, sometimes four).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T11:42:27.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1362" CreationDate="2012-09-22T11:57:15.997" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Came accross this question and here is what i did. On the commets you can see other videos i watched before I made this one. &#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/BGflbxGAzwE?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;Enjoy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T11:57:15.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11017" CreationDate="2012-09-22T15:32:38.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many ulock manufacturers have a unique serial number or key code to make keys for your lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can often register your keys with the company or simply request duplicates from them. There typically is a charge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kryptonite puts the key code on the key, on guard gives you a key code card with the box, other manufacturers vary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onguardlock.com/?page_id=180&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;On guard lock registration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/OrderKeys.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kryptonite key order page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://lockitt.com/ReplacementKeys.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lokitt&lt;/a&gt; which offers key duplication services for ABUS/On Guard/Mul-T-Lock keys. They can make keys with key code or they can duplicate from an existing key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T15:32:38.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12402" CreationDate="2012-09-22T16:28:34.397" Score="3" ViewCount="7834" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to add oil to the hydraulic disc brake reservoir to increase the stiffness of the lever, without bleeding the brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T17:33:57.803" Title="Can you add oil to a hydraulic disc brake reservoir without bleeding the brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12401" CreationDate="2012-09-22T17:33:57.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 types of hydraulic brake systems, referred to as open systems and closed systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open systems have a reservoir, with a cap, usually on the brake lever, above the master cylinder.  These systems, when proper care is taken, can have fluid added, or hoses trimmed without rebleeding the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Closed system brakes, like most older Hayes brakes, (HFX-9, Nine, Original Hayes) can't add fluid, because the only access to the fluid reservoir is through the bleed ports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you can add fluid or not, if your brakes need to be bled due to water or air contamination, then simply adding fluid will not fix your problem.  If you have a simple fluid leak, with no contamination, then it may work, although you should also look for the source of the leak, and fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleeding a brake is not a difficult task, and usually requires few, if any special tools.  If your brakes need to be bled, look up the manual, and give it a go.  You can't really do any permanent damage, and if you follow the directions, you shouldn't have any trouble, anyhow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T17:33:57.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10159" CreationDate="2012-09-22T22:00:40.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cane creek has a headset finder  table on their website. You can search by dimension or bike brand and model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T22:00:40.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-23T08:59:34.897" Score="0" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a loose bottom bracket and some prevailing knee pain I have made a few adjustments to the bike. I have managed to greatly reduce the pain in my left knee but the right still has some pain. I have noticed that since the bottom bracket came loose that my right foot if positioned the same as my left  will knock against the crank arm. I have to perch my foot on the edge of the pedal. I'm not sure whether this is something that could be attributed to a bending of the crank arm or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4987" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T19:53:34.693" Title="Right crank arm feels uncomfortable" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10516" CreationDate="2012-09-23T11:11:57.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;, the following groupset variations were specifically 9-speed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dura-Ace 7700 (1996-2002)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultegra 6500 (1997-2004)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;105 5500 (dates unknown)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tiagra before 4600 (before 2011)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sora 3400 (2012-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as other components go, it seems that as long as the cassette, chain and shifters match then the groupset should work. All Shimano rear derailleurs (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/desktopdefault.aspx?tabid=3946&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;excluding early Dura-Ace&lt;/a&gt;) have the same shift ratio, so they should work so long as the derailleur has enough travel capacity - use one rated for the same or higher number of gears than in your cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4642" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T11:11:57.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12406" CreationDate="2012-09-23T14:08:01.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the thing to do first is to determine if the crank arm is bent (or loose/poorly fitted to the shaft).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prop the bike up and &quot;pedal&quot; it backwards with your hand (from the right side).  Observe whether the shaft of the pedal maintains the same horizontal alignment all the way around.  If the crank arm is bent then generally the pedal shaft will be &quot;pointing upward&quot; at the top of the crank cycle and &quot;pointing down&quot; at the bottom of the crank cycle, and you can usually both see this and sense it with your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that a bent pedal shaft can produce the same symptom, though.  But if the pedal shaft is bent it will be obvious if you unscrew the pedal -- the shaft will &quot;wag&quot; around as you unscrew it.  And either way you'll need to replace some components.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that, on bikes with 3 front sprockets, the right pedal sticks out from the frame slightly more than the left pedal, making your ankle slightly more apt to bump the right crank arm than the left.  But the difference is slight -- maybe 4mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-09-23T19:53:34.693" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T19:53:34.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12411" CreationDate="2012-09-23T23:39:16.123" Score="2" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I havent ridden a bike since I was a kid. And now I just purchased a second hand one to go to and from work and I found the seat like sitting on a block of wood. It was horrible! What is the best seat to get? I was going to get a large padded one but now after reading some posts saying they were no good, i dont know what to do. I know nothing about this. Please help me. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5094" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T19:55:36.847" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T17:57:30.503" Title="Saddle for beginner rider!" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-09-24T00:37:20.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always had good luck using &quot;Halt&quot; pepper spray. It's made for cyclists and postal carriers. It seems to work adequately and all dogs. The last ocasion I had to use the Halt, my wife and I were riding in unfamiliar territory when a large dog came after us. A loud shout to &quot;git&quot; didn't work, so when he got within 5 feet of my bike, I gave him a taste of pepper spray, which sent him into the grass with his muzzle on the ground like he was mowing the grass! A couple of weeks later we found ourselves in the same area, and the same dog barked at us and started out of the yard towards us on a dead run until he saw me come up with my can of Halt, and halt he did! He just sat there quietly and watched us ride by. Guess he didn't like the taste of hot pepper! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5095" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T00:37:20.150" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12409" CreationDate="2012-09-24T00:41:24.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Kibbee stated give a little time. Don't expect to be able to do a one hour ride and be painfree the next day. Try to increase your saddle time gradually over a couple weeks. You can do several short rides a day to toughen-up the sore spots. The saddle may not be the only issue. Did you consult with anyone about bikefit? The bike may need some adjustments to fit you correctly. If after a few weeks your body is still complaining take your bike to your local shop. Have them look at your bike and the saddle. Explain to them where the pain is and ask for help in choosing a saddle that fits your body. Most shops will give a fit or comfort guarranty for a certain number of days.`&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-09-24T03:09:16.853" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T03:09:16.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12415" CreationDate="2012-09-24T08:43:59.080" Score="6" ViewCount="6871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Surly Cross-check that I absolutely love and adore to pieces. I've also converted it from a geared bike to a fixie and am wondering if I still need the adjustment screws (see picture, in case you don't know what I'm referring to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I have right now is that my chain is a bit slacker than I want it to be, but with the current position of the adjustment screws, I can't move the rear wheel any further back in the dropout. Are the adjustment screws necessary at all on a fixed-gear bike, or are they only needed when you've got a derailleur system? I'm a bit clueless on them, this is the first non-vertical dropout bike I've owned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KoX0T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T15:45:12.013" Title="Rear dropout adjustment screws on fixed-gear conversion" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;adjustment-screw&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12414" CreationDate="2012-09-24T09:14:55.987" Score="5" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my commute this morning I established that my freehub needs replacing.  There's obviously something wrong with the ratchet mechanism, because it intermittently refuses to engage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My existing setup is a Mavic Crossmax rear wheel (circa 1998) which originally hosted a 9spd cassette.  However I have been running it with a 4.5mm spacer and a 7spd cassette which has been working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I replace the freehub with a 7spd one, or will that simply not work?  Is the wheel somehow dished specifically for the 9spd width?  Should I instead just buy another 9spd freehub and continue to use the 4.5mm spacer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did look on Sheldon's website, but couldn't find this exact scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3069" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T11:35:11.513" Title="Can I replace a 9spd freehub with a 7spd one?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;7-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12413" CreationDate="2012-09-24T11:35:11.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you suspected, you may not run a 7 speed free hub with a 9 speed hub shell.  You will need a new 9 speed free hub, and continue to use the spacer ass you have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hubs are not generically sized.  Each model is sized for the number of gears it is expected to work with.  Replacing the freehub will mess with your dropout spacing, or the position of the gears in relation to the wheel, or both.  It can also prevent the bearing adjustment from working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T11:35:11.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12412" CreationDate="2012-09-24T12:08:25.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They aren't necessary, but they are a great help to properly aligning your wheel in the dropouts in an efficient manner. If these screws are adjusted correctly, you'll be able to just put your wheel in, pull it all the way back and tighten your axle nuts and your wheel will be arrow straight in the frame. If not, You'll need to manually align your wheel each time you take your wheel off to change a tire or do maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve your chain problem, you can either adjust the screws out so you can get your wheel further back in the dropouts or you can remove a link or two in your chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you want to make sure that the axle nuts have a good bite on your dropouts. This means that the entire nut is in contact with the dropout (save for the portions that are aligned with the openings)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T12:08:25.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12418" CreationDate="2012-09-24T15:53:34.550" Score="5" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in need for mudguards for a bicycle I bought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the bicycle's description: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merida-bikes.com/en_int/bike/2011/107/Fitness+Bike/SPEEDER+i8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Speeder i8&lt;/a&gt; The bike is a flatbar road bike, with an internal hub and roller brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bicycle is always carried in a small lift where it is positioned vertically on its rear wheel because of space limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mudguards I see in stores that would fit this bicycle have a problem: they are of &quot;full length&quot; and cover the wheel part that touches ground when positioned vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I need is something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ejttu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these shorter fenders&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;However, most fenders sold are larger, &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Z0O6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like these&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any pre-made solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5101" LastEditorUserId="5101" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T09:46:49.757" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T21:05:51.163" Title="Choosing mudguards for carrying a bicycle in a small lift" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12417" CreationDate="2012-09-24T16:37:17.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try something with slightly less coverage like the sks raceblades. However, the sks commuter fenders have less clearance in the back. It still might be too much though.  Clip on fenders like the portland design work soda pop fenders may be an option for you as well, but they provide less coverage overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fenders are one of those things that are pretty easy to hack yourself if you have some small tools.  I trim off some material from the fender to make it fit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would bolt it on to the fender mounts on your rear dropouts and then measure the distance from the actual end of the fender to where you would like the fender to end. Then, on the other side of the fender, where you secure it near the cranks, I would mark the fender and trim that much material off from the end.  You could do this with a coping saw or a dremel tool pretty easily on plastic fenders. You'll need to re-drill a mounting hole.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might not be able to trim the fender in a straight line, you may have to cut it in a similar pattern to the bottom of the existing fender, depending on the fender's width. Skinny fenders may need little to no tapering at the bottom, while large fenders may need to be thinned down a lot. Really, just make it look like the end you're chopping off and it should be fine.  You could trace the shape on to some paper, cut it out, and trace that on the fender before making your cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to put some washers on either side of the new hole for extra reinforcement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T16:37:17.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-24T21:13:48.097" Score="2" ViewCount="2044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a tiny apartment on the 4th floor, narrow stairs and no elevator.  I'm looking to buy a bike, and planning to put in 50-60 miles a week at least.  Could you recommend a bike in the 300-350$ range?  It would be better if it is a foldable bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5103" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T13:59:09.080" Title="For a complete beginner, what bike would you recommend?" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8170" CreationDate="2012-09-25T00:10:25.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear wheel (with a Ti skewer) on one of my road bikes would flex and rub against the frame when I stomped on the pedals or climbed a steep hill no matter how tight I made the skewer. I fixed the problem by switching to a steel skewer.  No more flex and even the rear derailleur shifts better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5105" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T00:10:25.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12419" CreationDate="2012-09-25T00:49:40.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.downtube.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Downtube&lt;/a&gt; has a a sub-400$ folding bike, the 7sp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thorusa.com/dahon/current.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dahon&lt;/a&gt; also has a few sub-400$ folding bikes: the Boardwalk S1 and the Speed Uno.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're planning on doing longer commutes, I would suggest folding bikes with larger wheels, like the Montague Crosstown. These bikes are, however, a bit more expensive, but offer a much more comfortable and speedy ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5107" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T00:49:40.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12392" CreationDate="2012-09-25T03:05:30.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can trim off the lip with a sharp blade, if you do it carefully. However, I normally recommend that the lip be filed off with the flat side of a 3/4&quot; bastard file. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's more accurate, the mechanic is less like to hurt the self if they slip, and it has the added benefit of roughing the surface of the pad to remove any heat glazing at the same time you are flattening the surface of the pad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T03:05:30.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12409" CreationDate="2012-09-25T03:45:00.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Big fat padded seats do work well and can be had rather cheaply.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently fallen in love with a Brooks leather saddle.  It is basically a leather hammock built in the shape of a seat.  They are expensive, so see if you can find someone's you can try before you buy.  I stumbled into mine by accident but I know I will never ride on anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5044" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T03:45:00.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12419" CreationDate="2012-09-25T03:59:21.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend getting a cheap used aluminum frame bike (a beater), a good lock, and a bottle of oil.  Then, I recommend you lock it on the street most of the time.  I recommend cheap so that you won't worry about it while it's parked on the street.  I recommend aluminum so that it is light enough to haul up to your apartment for those extended periods when you won't be riding it (also so it doesn't rust).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might take a beating getting stored outside, but if you ride it frequently that'll battle the effects of the weather (as will the bottle of oil).  One of my schools (in the midwest) had nearly 100% outside storage for student bicycles.  It snowed, rained, etc.  But, as long as the bikes were used and maintained regularly, they ran fine.  (The ones that sat for a long time eventually turned into piles of rust.) If you spend, say $150 or so, you'll have enough left over for periodic tune-ups on your cheapo from your local mechanic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you store it outside, you'll be more likely to ride it for quick trips than if you have to haul it up and down 4 flights of stairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5044" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T03:59:21.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12417" CreationDate="2012-09-25T04:12:28.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Benzo already hit all the high points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO, it depends on the weather you get and the amount of coverage you need.  I've had quite good luck with the seatpost clip on fender (SKS Xtra-Dry Rear Seatpost Fender).  It can be adjusted up or down and moved out of the way if you need to hold the bike vertically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that arrangement doesn't work for you (buy one and try it... they're easy to remove and return), then I'd agree with everything Benzo said... buy one you like and cut it with a hacksaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5044" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T04:12:28.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12435" CreationDate="2012-09-25T09:47:35.273" Score="5" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking around for information on this topic but can't find anything definitive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tram routes through Manchester city centre are for trams (obviously), but it seems public transport can use the tramways as well.  My understanding is that is legal for cyclists to use bus lanes, so does the same apply to the tram routes?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also seen people cycling on the tramways, but are they actually allowed to do so?  Just because people are doing it doesn't make it legal after all, as plenty of people cycle on the pavements as well (which in Manchester is a special kind of stupidity given how busy the streets are!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any official policy on the status of the tramways as cycle routes?  I do know that Metrolink are rather hostile to cyclists, and I certainly wouldn't want to lose an argument to a tram whilst on a bike... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastEditorUserId="4908" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T14:13:01.837" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T22:01:03.883" Title="Cycling on Manchester Metrolink tram routes" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;public-transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12429" CreationDate="2012-09-25T10:09:29.830" Score="19" ViewCount="1839" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I lock my bicycle I try to lock it on quiet spots, usually on street racks situated on secondary streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it will be less visible so it  will attract less looks. On the other hand, if a thief wants to steal it, he will have more time to act before someone spots him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to lock the bicycle in crowded or quiet locations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3304" LastEditorUserId="847" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T11:38:27.863" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T06:56:04.567" Title="Lock my bicycle on busy or quiet places?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12428" CreationDate="2012-09-25T10:26:08.367" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is all subjective, but I would say that a public place is better (as I have previously &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/937/locking-your-bike-in-public-areas/985#985&quot;&gt;answered to a similar question&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bike thefts are opportunistic; unless you've got an especially desirable bike the theft is not about your bike, it's about stealing &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; bike. So the key is to reducing the opportunity to steal &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; bike: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as you point out, reducing the amount of time to work on the lock(s) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make it less desirable and more identifiable (dirt, scuffs, mods) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give alternatives - parking next to a shiny newer more expensive looking one with a poorer lock &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also say to try to use a public bike rack - then you've also got a chance that a fellow cyclist would interrupt or at least deter a thief. Several times I've seen someone suspicious loitering around a bike rack when locking/unlocking my bike and I've taken longer about it so as to make them feel uncomfortable and move on. I don't want my bike nicked and spending a few minutes to maybe slightly protect someone else's makes me feel like a good citizen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T10:26:08.367" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12428" CreationDate="2012-09-25T10:51:49.090" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen videos showing people stealing bikes amidst a crowd of onlookers while no one intervenes. Locking in a crowded place isn't necessarily going to save your bike. On the other hand, lots of bikes are stolen from locked garages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any statistics about what storage method is safer. I've never had a bike stolen, but from what I've heard in my social circles, most people's bikes have been stolen while they had locked it up during an outing in the evening, or overnight. It's always &quot;when I left the bar it was gone,&quot; or &quot;in the morning it was gone.&quot; For this reason, I think it's safest to bring your bike into your home overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T10:51:49.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12428" CreationDate="2012-09-25T13:03:51.473" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end it might matter more WHO is around the rack (policemen, guards, janitors, public workers, parking lot workers, hot-dog stand owners, etc.) than HOW MANY people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd rather, when available, leave my bike under one lonely ever-present alert pair of eyes than in a crowd of anonymous passers-by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T09:14:33.743" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T09:14:33.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12433" CreationDate="2012-09-25T13:42:29.973" Score="6" ViewCount="12279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to buy a front wheel which will work with both disc and rim brakes so that I can use it on my cross bike (with rim brakes) and my mountain bike (with disc brakes) with a dynamo hub to power lights for night riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use a disc rim with rim brakes (cantilever or caliper) or will I need to buy a wheel that does not have a disc specific rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T12:45:42.480" Title="Can I run rim brakes on a disc rim?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12432" CreationDate="2012-09-25T13:57:35.090" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some disc-brake specific wheels use rims that are not designed for rim brakes. To accomplish what you want you need a wheel with a a disc-brake hub and a rim-brake rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that setup, assuming the fork widths are the same, you should be able to switch wheels between bikes without problems. The only drawback is the slight increase in rotating mass from having extra material in both the hub and the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10053&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;catalogId=10052&amp;amp;productId=533588&amp;amp;utm_source=Google_Product_Search&amp;amp;utm_medium=pla&amp;amp;utm_campaign=datafeed&amp;amp;cm_mmc=Google_Product_Search-_-PLA-_-Datafeed-_-Mavic%20CrossRide%20UB%20Disc%20Front%20Mountain%20Wheel&amp;amp;CAWELAID=996335746&amp;amp;catargetid=1572651257&amp;amp;cagpspn=pla&quot;&gt;this wheel from Mavic available at Nasbar&lt;/a&gt;, but your LBS should be able to easily build up wheels for you if they don't have something specific in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use your dynamo I think you are forced to have custom built wheels, but it should still work fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T15:16:17.667" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T15:16:17.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12432" CreationDate="2012-09-25T13:58:15.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: no. Disc brake rims generally don't have a brake track designed for rim brakes, and you will damage the rim quickly. Secondly, your MTB and cross bike may have different wheel sizes to begin with, so the whole plan may be suspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T13:58:15.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12427" CreationDate="2012-09-25T14:26:51.840" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highwaycode/DG_069864&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Highway Code rule 300&lt;/a&gt; - You &lt;strong&gt;MUST NOT&lt;/strong&gt; enter a road, lane or other route reserved for trams. A road or lane reserved for trams will have signs like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lIljr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Trams Only Sign&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or road markings that say &lt;strong&gt;TRAM ONLY&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cyclists are allowed on that particular section of tramway then it will be indicated by a sign, like this above or below the tram sign:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOUZR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cycle and bus sign&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or the road markings will indicate that cyclists are allowed (this is from Edinburgh):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sXuIf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tramway&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legal issues aside, cycling along a tramway can be dangerous. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theedinburghreporter.co.uk/2012/06/opinion-trams-and-bikes-do-they-mix/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog entry&lt;/a&gt; describes the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The tram lines have also proven to be a nightmare for cyclists – set in smooth concrete or rough setts, with buses and taxis forcing your line and on dark and wet nights, many a cyclist has fallen victim to them and broken their bones and their bikes. It was apparent that the people behind Edinburgh’s tram had made absolutely zero allowance in their thinking around how cyclists might “interact” with tram lines when forced across them at shallow angles by poor road design and by other road users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T14:26:51.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12428" CreationDate="2012-09-25T14:31:47.107" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say a quieter place is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;less people see it, less likely a thief see's it also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had a bike stolen, well a bike wheel actually, stolen from outside my offices - in front of a security guard and cctv camera (both useless it would seem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="484" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T14:31:47.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12438" CreationDate="2012-09-25T18:28:22.580" Score="2" ViewCount="3222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a road bike with the following setup for the gears:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9-speed Tiagra front and rear derailleurs, Sora shifters, all from 2009:&#xA;30/39/52 Crankset&#xA;11-25 Cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need some more low gears for hilly areas, and I am thinking of switching to a 9-speed Deore XT derailleur and 11-32 cassette. Is it possible / compatible? Do you think that cross-chaining would be an issue? Will I need a new chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T20:07:00.020" Title="Mixing 9-speed Tiagra and 9-speed Deore XT" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12437" CreationDate="2012-09-25T20:07:00.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that will work just fine. I have a similar setup on my touring bike, Tiagra shifters and an LX derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T20:07:00.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-09-25T21:02:07.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dogs can be a pain, normally they’re not going to bite you as long as you just maintain speed and carry on. Although sometimes it’s just easiest for the owner as well to just stop then the dog will just sit there and look at you or jump up or down (from my personal experiences dependant on dog nature of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recent encounter was a staffie looking type dog that I had no option but to stop on a canal otherwise I’d have run it over then it just evilly barked and ran around my bike and the owner managed to get hold of it, but the worry is that is the dog going to bite you and is it worth using a tool like a hand pump for defence in situations like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5113" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T21:02:07.207" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-25T21:25:45.667" Score="2" ViewCount="3722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in converting my Cannondale Bad Boy 2011 into a single speed bike. I found somebody who's done it on a Bad Boy 2008 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://tancredi.co.uk/2007/9/7/bad-boy-8-fixie-conversion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;here&quot;&gt;there&lt;/a&gt;), and somebody else who's done it one a more recent model (&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/cannondale/my-new-cannondale-ss-524141.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;there&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a bike expert told me that not every bike can be converted into SS bikes, and that most Cannondale bikes couldn't, because of the shape of the frame making it impossible to put a single speed cog (or something along these lines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm looking for advice as to whether I can convert my BB 2011 into a single speed bike, and if so, whether there is anything different I need to do to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5114" LastEditorUserId="3239" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T18:23:36.380" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T18:23:36.380" Title="Cannondale Bad Boy SS conversion" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12440" CreationDate="2012-09-25T21:35:54.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that they were talking about replacing the rear cassette with a freewheel. However, you can convert pretty much any bike with a rear cassette to a single speed with single speed conversion kit like this one: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=1764&amp;amp;category=2621&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=1764&amp;amp;category=2621&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a chain tensioner like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=47140&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=47140&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB: I don't necessarily recommend either one of those products or the store that I found them on. They're just examples. You can actually even &quot;hack&quot; your own single speed conversion by dismantling a couple of old cassettes and using the spacers in the same way that you use the larger spacers on the ready-made conversion kit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T21:35:54.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12440" CreationDate="2012-09-25T23:32:21.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing a little research the bad boy line includes both an internal hub model:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Of6P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Internal hub version of cannondale bad boy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a standard hanging derailleur model:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k0uaG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hanging derailleur version of cannondale bad boy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the former then your bike includes an eccentric bottom bracket, which will provide chain tension; the biggest of the hurdles when converting to single speed. If so you will most definitely be able to make the conversion without much issue. Your LBS will be able to find you an appropriate wheel and sprocket to get you rolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand if you have the hanging derailleur model then you do not have the eccentric bottom bracket. You will have a vertical dropout and no simple way to provide chain tension. There are 3 basic methods to deal with chain tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Eccentric Bottom Bracket - The bottom bracket moves inside a casing in an ovular fashion in order to move further away or closer to the hub creating chain tension. Since different models of your frame use this it may be an attractive option. It does require specialized tools and disassembling nearly all of your drive train to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Eccentric hub - The hub moves inside a casing in an ovular fashion on order to move further away or closer to the bottom bracket creating chain tension. The main disadvantage with this method is the added cost in getting a custom built wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using a tension arm. In fact some even use their derailleurs although it's a less elegant solution than this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgKCq.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Single Speed tension arm&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastEditorUserId="3047" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T16:28:06.640" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T16:28:06.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12419" CreationDate="2012-09-26T00:21:23.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How tall are you? I am 6'1&quot;, but I have a boy's mountain bike with 24&quot; wheels, which I got used six years ago for 80 dollars. This is fine, because I raised the handle bars as far as they can go, and for eight dollars, I replaced the seat post with a much longer one. In all regards except size, it's a normal mountain bike with a decent spring-loaded front fork, good wheels on aluminum rims, good V-brakes, good derailleurs. A few incredibly cheap and easy modifications turned it into what is de-facto  a small-form-factor adult bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boy is this bicycle ever handy. Though it doesn't fold, it fits everywhere I need it to. It does very well on crowded commuter trains, and inside small elevators, escalators and stairwells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 24&quot; wheels are more than large enough for distance road use. I go all over town on this thing. Ten miles each way to work and back, plus evening and weekend outings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used bikes like this can be found in decent shape. Kids can be rough on equipment, but not in the way that grownups are. I mean, a kid's bike will not have been used 30 miles a day for commuting to work, in inclement weather. Plus, one reason these bikes may be sold on the second hand market is simply that they were outgrown, not necessarily because there is anything wrong with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my experience with this bike, I never want anything larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T00:21:23.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12362" CreationDate="2012-09-26T01:56:51.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you bump the lever and close the pistons while the pads are out, you can insert a clean flat blade screwdriver between the pistons and push them back into the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4493" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T01:56:51.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12449" CreationDate="2012-09-26T04:14:25.557" Score="2" ViewCount="1894" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 20 years commuting on old/cheap bikes, I finally evolved up to a nice solid touring rig with cable disc brakes (Avid BB5).  I love the bike and the brakes.  They're much easier to maintain, replace, and adjust than my old rim brakes were (as a result, they are more effective more often).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, recently I have been getting a periodic pad-on-disc noise that I have had difficulty getting rid of.  After the pads have been used a while and are say 1/2 worn, they seem to &quot;stick&quot; so that some part of a pad is touching the disc.  This is especially true after a session of braking hard (usually at the bottom of a hill).  Sometimes I can knock them loose by braking again or tapping the brake levers hard, other times, even that doesn't work.  Today, I actually dismounted and tried to work the pads apart by hand because the noise was really bugging me and I was worried that the disc would overheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are those little springs that go between the pads the problem?  Can I make them stronger somehow?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried taking the springs out and bending them out before reinserting them, but no joy there either (at least not yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5044" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T10:44:06.510" Title="Do I need better &quot;springs&quot; on my disc brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12409" CreationDate="2012-09-26T04:38:08.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you ride with padded bike shorts? This is a very worth while option to consider. You can get &quot;baggies&quot; (like MTBers wear) if the tight lycra look does not suit you fashion sense - don't worry - despite what roadies tell you it is NOT illegal to wear baggies while riding on the road :). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T04:38:08.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12428" CreationDate="2012-09-26T08:35:20.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this link any use? This ex-bike-thief basically says to lock your bike the busier the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/green-living-blog/2010/sep/13/bike-thief-stolen-tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/green-living-blog/2010/sep/13/bike-thief-stolen-tips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I have posted on here previously, I think if someone decides they are going to go out of their way to steal &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; bike, I'm not sure you'll be able to stop them. But presumably your bike is/will be insured? If so, read the policy thoroughly and make sure you comply with the minimum specified security requirements. At least if it does get stolen you'll have some compensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case the policy covers the grade of lock I need to use (in the UK there is a standard called &quot;Sold Secure&quot;, its arguable whether locks that conform to this standard are better than locks that don't, but it is a standard that appears to keep the insurance companies happy), what I lock the bike to, and how long I can lock it for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: If the link above was useful, there's a further excellent link from the Guardian - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/2012/oct/05/bike-theft-insurance-cover?INTCMP=SRCH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to protect your bike from being stripped for parts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2012-10-11T09:30:56.967" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T09:30:56.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12428" CreationDate="2012-09-26T09:11:02.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its really not sure, both way have their own disadvantages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; park your bike anywhere, where there is a chance of you losing its sight, whether busy or quite place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have to be permanently out for several hours, then &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a good secured parking spot to park your bikes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There should be a guard around or someone who is responsible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure he knows you have parked a bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or, you can also ask him to keep an eye on the bike (depending on the nature of the person)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If its possible, make irregular visits to the parking spot. Confusing the thief.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Complete your work&lt;/strong&gt; and rush to your bike :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At my city, I park around a firm thing. Whether poles, or railing, to increase the difficulty (&lt;em&gt;but its not allowed everywhere, so not so helpful&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T09:11:02.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12445" CreationDate="2012-09-26T10:44:06.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem may be in in your cables. If the cables are dragging inside the housing the pads may not fully release. You can isolate the problem by disconnecting the cable from the brake. Then manually cycle the arm on the caliper. If it doesn't drag or stick after you release it, the problem is the cable. You can try lubing the cables it may help. It may also be time for new cables.Are you adjusting for pad wear with the cable adjuster or with the adjust screw on the caliper. If you are using the cable adjuster you may be pulling the caliper arm to the point of binding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T10:44:06.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12466" CreationDate="2012-09-26T11:37:14.730" Score="3" ViewCount="21934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a $300 MTB used for &lt;strong&gt;commuting&lt;/strong&gt;. It has been &lt;strong&gt;three&lt;/strong&gt; years now, and the rain and snow have said their word. Two weeks ago I disassembled the fork and spent a good one hour with the sandpaper, removing rust. Still some was left. It has been two rainshowers from then. Yesterday I had another look and ... it is not promising. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have move aggressive means of removing material (so that there will remain no rust) - a grinding wheel. However, I am afraid to use it, as I guess it will be weakening the tubes too much. I do not seek top performance - it is a no-steal bike (for example the handlebar is visibly bent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are the two pictures. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Should I clean the rust? How? How reliable is the fork currently? How long does it have left?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gYbfd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/peKlu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T13:42:35.437" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T16:45:41.913" Title="Badly rusted suspension fork" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12450" CreationDate="2012-09-26T13:11:43.657" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is obviously (from the images) a suspension fork, and a very low-end one. Suspension forks are heavier than their rigid counterparts, but the trade-off is that they absorb shocks. These rust spots MUST MEAN the fork has long ago COMPLETELY LOST its ability to work properly as a suspension. As a result, you are carrying useless extra-weight, are not getting a suspension effect, are risking some worse failure along the way, and are risking some crash/injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surface presenting the rust is the surface where sliding occurs (the &quot;telescopes&quot;). This surface must be perfectly smooth and shiny, and the rust shown necessarily means it is not, and never will be, as new again. Grinding will remove dust, but will not make the surface smooth nor prevent more rust to build-up afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion: sell the fork for metal recycling, and buy either a new suspension fork, or a rigid fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T13:11:43.657" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12450" CreationDate="2012-09-26T14:38:02.097" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throw that thing out and get a rigid fork. You don't need suspension unless you're riding off-road, or jumping over cars, or whatever it is the kids do these days. And bad suspension is worse than no suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rigid forks are pretty durable, so you may be able to find up a used one. Make sure that the crown-to-axle distance is similar to what you have now, otherwise it may change the handling characteristics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T14:38:02.097" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12455" CreationDate="2012-09-26T15:37:04.397" Score="1" ViewCount="1592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of Xero Lite XSR-3 Wheels.  I tend to ride dirt, gravel, and some singletrack on my cross bike and sometimes some cross races.  Would I be able to swap this wheelset on to my cross bike to save weight or should I stick with my heavier duty 32 spoke wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Original/23418.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Original/23418.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T16:02:23.547" Title="Are these Xero Lite XSR-3 Wheels suitable for cross riding / racing?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;gravel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12454" CreationDate="2012-09-26T16:02:23.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They should be fine. There are a lot of people that ride &quot;road&quot; wheels for cyclocross. Unless you have some dedicated tubular wheels with wider and shallower glue beds to accommodate cross tires, you're probably riding &quot;road&quot; wheels with cross tires on them anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently using some Mavic ksyriums on my cross bike as training wheels and they work out just dandy. Make sure you check the spoke tension often as all the jostling and off road riding will tend to loosen the spokes and throw your wheel a bit out of true quicker than road riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T16:02:23.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12457" CreationDate="2012-09-26T16:16:42.070" Score="7" ViewCount="3948" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on changing my commuter handlebar to a drop handlebar. As the diameters are different, I need to know if the new brake lever will work with the existing v-brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My intention is to remove the handlebar+levers+shifters and install a drop handlebar + ultegra bar end shifter + whatever shimano brake lever that works fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4917" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T01:24:14.990" Title="Will a road brake lever work with a v-brake?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12456" CreationDate="2012-09-26T16:20:01.537" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not typically.  They have different pull ratios.  However, you can get a device called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/travel_agents/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;travel agent&lt;/a&gt; to make this work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some companies such as Paul's make a cyclocross specific v brake such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paulcomp.com/minimoto.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mini Moto&lt;/a&gt; which have the same pull ratio as road brake levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not using brifters and have separate brake levers and shifters, you can buy linear pull drop bar levers like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003UWJO0W&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tektro RL 520 &lt;/a&gt;that will work with your v-brakes without buying separate travel agents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T19:43:09.223" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T19:43:09.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-26T16:22:53.363" Score="7" ViewCount="3760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to convert my old raleigh, which has 3 chainrings on the front, into a single-speed. Do I have to replace the bottom bracket? I keep hearing conflicting things. &#xA;Thankyou. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5122" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T22:23:23.843" Title="for a single-speed conversion, is it always necesary to change bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12458" CreationDate="2012-09-26T16:35:48.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An eccentric bottom bracket is one way of getting the chain tension correct, but it's not the only one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see any other reason why you'd need to change it, unless you can't get a useable chainline otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T16:35:48.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12458" CreationDate="2012-09-26T16:38:57.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if you are talking bottom brackets or cranksets.  But the answer for both is &quot;no&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a singlespeed specific hub, this mainly depends on the chainstays of the bike and the size chainwheel you want to run.  For a conversion I imagine you have a standard cassette hub though - this gives you some flexibility in positioning the rear sprocket.  You should be able to put your single chainwheel in the inside or middle and adjust position of rear sprocket if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have vertical dropouts, some people might recommend an eccentric bottom bracket to tension the chain.  But you can also just use your rear derailleur, or a bolt-on tensioner like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleclubsports.com/p-23125-dmr-sts-chain-tensioner-stainless-steel.aspx?cagpspn=pla&amp;amp;gclid=CIfX5N7W07ICFUje4Aod0lgA0Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T16:38:57.793" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3902" CreationDate="2012-09-26T17:40:29.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a big difference in component quality, for example I have a bike equipped with Ultegra and another bike that has mixed Sora and Tiagra groupset. As mentioned above Shimano Ultegra is fairly expensive while Shimano Tiagra and Sora are near the bottom of the range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheaper Sora/Tiagra groupset requires constant attention, the shifters and the brakes feel spongy to the extent that I replaced the brakes with Ultegra after a few months as the Sora brakes felt unsafe. This did not entirely cure the problem as the main culprit are the shifters/brake levers. Replacing them is very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ultegra components are stiffer as they use better materials. They last for years and do not corrode as much as their cheaper cousins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does depend on usage, racing cyclists buy top of the range components because they are light and perform well even under maximum load and stress. If you are a weekend warrior that likes to potter around and do not need ultra-efficient brakes to get yourself out of trouble then go for the lower end components.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4924" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T17:40:29.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12458" CreationDate="2012-09-26T17:52:07.627" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need one of four things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An eccentric bottom bracket. Like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=eccentric+hub&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;prmd=imvns&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=Gz1jUPbWLoW6yAHJ6ICACA&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CEoQsAQ&amp;amp;biw=1024&amp;amp;bih=679#hl=en&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;q=eccentric+bottom+bracket&amp;amp;oq=eccentric+bottom+bracket&amp;amp;gs_l=img.3..0j0i24l9.17271.19045.0.19191.14.4.0.10.10.0.84.330.4.4.0...0.0...1c.1.Xdnx6VAfn8U&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&amp;amp;fp=1479766b763c530&amp;amp;biw=1024&amp;amp;bih=679&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An eccentric hub. Like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=eccentric+hub&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;prmd=imvns&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=Gz1jUPbWLoW6yAHJ6ICACA&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CEoQsAQ&amp;amp;biw=1024&amp;amp;bih=679&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horizontal dropouts. Like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=eccentric+hub&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;prmd=imvns&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=Gz1jUPbWLoW6yAHJ6ICACA&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CEoQsAQ&amp;amp;biw=1024&amp;amp;bih=679#hl=en&amp;amp;biw=1024&amp;amp;bih=679&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=1&amp;amp;q=Horizontal+dropouts&amp;amp;oq=Horizontal+dropouts&amp;amp;gs_l=img.3...28022.34613.1.34843.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0...0.0...1c.1.yzgQjChH2us&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&amp;amp;fp=1479766b763c530&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A chain tensioner. There are a number of different types.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need one of the four, but these are the only ways to get the chain tension correct on a single speed. (I should say &quot;almost only.&quot; Blind luck works every so often.) Additionally, as others have mentioned, a chain tensioner will not work with a fixie.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that your spindle is too long or too short to get your chainline correct. If that's the case, you'll have to get a new bottom bracket with the correct spindle length even if you already have an eccentric hub or horizontal dropouts. It's usually possible to position the chain rings on the inside or the outside of the crank's spider and get it correct, but not always. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="3311" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T18:35:01.253" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T18:35:01.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12450" CreationDate="2012-09-26T18:53:41.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the visible rust on the stanchion tube (that's what those are called), the rust has most likely damaged the gaskets sealing off the lower tubes - the portion of the fork that the stanchion tubes slide into. Even if you got the rust off and got the stanchion tubes in a good-as-new condition (which is probably impossible) you'd still have to replace the innards of the fork. It's probably more economical to just replace the whole thing. If you insist on trying, a buffing wheel and buffing compound will get you closer than a grinding wheel. But personally, I'd just replace it with a rigid fork, especially since you ride in the rain and snow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T18:53:41.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12458" CreationDate="2012-09-26T22:17:52.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's almost never necessary, I don't know where you got this idea. The only possible reason I can imagine for changing the BB during a single-speed conversion is if the chainline is way off, and you can't fix it by respacing the chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be thinking of an eccentric bottom bracket. This is indeed one way to adjust the chain tension on a single-speed; but an eccentric requires a special  BB shell, so if your frame doesn't already have an eccentric, there's no way to install it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YM5T3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastEditorUserId="1338" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T22:23:23.843" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T22:23:23.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12471" CreationDate="2012-09-26T22:26:23.780" Score="4" ViewCount="2144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am specifically interested in cleaning my chain and drive train. Will it be too corrosive and degrade my 10 speed chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A neighbor mentioned he uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greased-lightning.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Greased Lightning&lt;/a&gt;, but I could not find anything on the product website about being safe to use on bicycles (but most everything else), or on bicycle review sites of people using this on their bicycles, many people using on car engines though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I have used Simple Green (still do) for most my cleaning, and always rinse it off but have been cautious about using it and looking for alternatives, ever since a friend had chain degrade and break after using Simple Green. &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2005/11/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-not-so-simple-green-2_9216&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lennard Zinn&lt;/a&gt; Q&amp;amp;A article about Simple Green eating chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T01:13:16.900" Title="Is &quot;Greased Lightning&quot; safe to use for bicycle cleaning?" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12472" CreationDate="2012-09-26T22:53:40.370" Score="40" ViewCount="163667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at purchasing a new cassette and chain. Looking at the available cassettes for SRAM components, there is a big variety of sizes available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11-23: 11-12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11-25: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11-26: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-26&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11-28: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-22-25-28&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11-32: 11-12-13-15-17-19-22-25-28-32&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12-25: 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12-26: 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-26&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12-27: 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12-28: 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-22-25-28&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12-32: 12-13-14-15-17-19-22-25-28-32&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I can understand why someone would choose a cassette based off of how many teeth the big gear has. Some people live in hilly or mountainous areas and desire a higher number of teeth. Some people live in flat areas where they simply won't use those cassettes with a lot of teeth on the big gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But why would anyone ever choose to buy a cassette with 12 teeth on the small gear instead of 11? 11 teeth = higher maximum speed. I doubt many people buying a nice set of components (Shimano, SRAM etc) would ever say &quot;I don't need to go faster so 12 teeth is fine with me.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the point of 12 teeth when you could opt for 11 instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastEditorUserId="2357" LastEditDate="2015-10-31T20:19:35.813" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T15:42:07.243" Title="Why would one ever buy a 12-25 cassette when an 11-25 is available?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2012-09-26T23:10:17.453" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people will never get the chance to use the 11 teeth setting, whether this is through not being fit enough or another reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they can opt for the slightly longer expected lifespan of the 12 (lower wear per tooth) and the slightly narrower gap between ratios which can make gear changing less of a struggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T23:10:17.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12468" CreationDate="2012-09-27T01:37:50.870" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the kitchen section of their web site GreasedLightning says to avoid painted or aluminum surfaces. In my case that is 90% of my bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T01:37:50.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2012-09-27T01:59:18.277" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to maximize your max. speed, go for an 11 tooth cog. If you want to maximize your average speed, unless you're a pro you probably are better off without it. Even cruising at 40km/h does not require and 11 tooth cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, take a look at this table, showing cruising&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; speeds for a 11- 21 tooth cassette:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YqRHV.png&quot; alt=&quot;cruising speeds for a 11- 21 tooth cassette&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And compare to this table for a 12 - 25 tooth cassette:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MrN6P.png&quot; alt=&quot;cruising speeds for a 11- 25 tooth cassette&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that the 11 tooth cog is only really useful for cruising speeds that riders at the professional level can maintain, or for short bursts. So, like I said, if you aren't trying to break your own max speed record, you may be better off with a 12 tooth cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_speed&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tables screen captured from bikecalc.com. Check it out.&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember reading a while back about how most riders can't maintain a high enough wattage output to make an 11 tooth cog worthwhile, but I couldn't turn it up. Maybe another contributor will post it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;em&gt;Cruising&lt;/em&gt; here means pedalling at 90 r.p.m.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="23680" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T21:34:46.343" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T21:34:46.343" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2012-09-27T03:04:19.420" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, and for many riders that come through my shop, the 11-25 is missing the critical 16t cog, which (at least for me) is the sweet spot. That is, the gear which I don't tend to spin out of, and that doesn't turn in to a grind fest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm doing a Euro trip, then I will run an 11-28, with a compact front.  But at home, for daily riding, a standard 53/39 with a 12/25 is perfect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, the 11t cog was designed to give a compact crank, with its smaller front range, the same or similar top speed as a &quot;standard&quot; setup, which at the time was a 53/12 maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T03:04:19.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12475" CreationDate="2012-09-27T03:55:35.027" Score="13" ViewCount="5165" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every day on my way to school there is a long street with a bike lane and two car lanes on each side. But when the street is jammed I have cars going really fast behind me and honking because I'm not going 45 miles an hour like their car is. Can they really do this? I mean it's the BIKE lane. It's one thing to be pulling out of a parking spot and crossing the bike lane but to be driving on it in general shouldn't be right. I live in Los Angeles, CA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5128" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-09-30T18:23:38.497" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T18:23:38.497" Title="Can cars legally drive in the bike lane down the street?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;&lt;california&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12474" CreationDate="2012-09-27T04:17:15.817" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. In California, a car can only drive in a bike lane 200 feet before making a turn from that side of the road or when entering or exiting the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21209.htm&quot;&gt;California Vehicle Code 21209&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T04:17:15.817" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-27T06:01:40.993" Score="4" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a 16mi/day commuter and have been for the last two years.  When I bought my bike the first thing I replaced was the warn stock saddle with one of those &quot;couch on a stick&quot; models.  Say what you will, I put over 3300 miles on that saddle before the rails broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now need a new saddle.  The LBS whats to sell me a $70 leather one that is frankly out of my price range. (I bought the whole bike for $50).  What is a good second saddle that will hold up to an admittedly rough commute, be comfortable and not break the bank? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is a Alta Mongoose frame with 1.5&quot; road tires. During the summer I ride in padded bike shorts, winters are often in rain gear.  Once a month or so I need to ride in slacks and dress shoes when I have a meeting downtown. I also take it out for an occasional weekend ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An older picture, I have since added fenders, new tires, and a better rack:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93BVz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An older picture, I have since added fenders, new tires, and a better rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5129" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-22T20:21:38.580" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T20:40:17.327" Title="What to get for my second saddle?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12512" CreationDate="2012-09-27T06:53:59.510" Score="11" ViewCount="4096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been searching for a generator or 'dynamo' (preferably one built into the hub) to run lights for night riding, but it seems that most are rated for only about 3W (presumably to meet German bicycle standards).  I currently have a DiNotte 400R tail light that serves me well, running from a battery.  I'd like to add a high-lumen headlight (at least 800 Lumens) and run the whole thing from a generator.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've measured the average power consumption of the 400R on one of the blink modes to be about 2W.  A reasonable ballpark estimate for LEDs is about 100 Lumens per Watt, so I'd need a generator that can source an average power of at least 10 Watts for the head and tail light combined.  I have some experience with electronics so an unregulated output in the range of, say, 5-30 Volts is acceptable.  Storing energy to supply the power surge when the tail light is 'active' is something I'm confident I can handle.  A typical cruising speed would be something like 20 mph (30 km/h).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: Generator (preferably in the hub) that can output 10 W at a reasonable voltage at 20 mph. Does anyone know of such a thing?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-09-27T16:04:19.890" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T14:43:52.487" Title="Are there any high power bicycle generators?" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12474" CreationDate="2012-09-27T07:20:32.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clue's in the name.  BIKE lane!  If you see cars doing this, especially if you're being bullied by antisocial car drivers, I'd recommend taking notes of license plates and having a few friendly chats with the police.  Realistically that probably wouldn't achieve much, but you never know.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T07:20:32.840" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13054" CreationDate="2012-09-27T12:52:48.593" Score="1" ViewCount="963" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replace a lost head unit/computer on my old Tacx Basic from 2002, does anybody know if modern Flow head unit will work with this old frame/load generator? I think such was an upgrade path, once, but still - the frame is really old (but in good working condition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T23:39:27.673" Title="Can Tacx Flow head unit work with old (2002) Basic frame/brake?" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12540" CreationDate="2012-09-27T13:44:01.300" Score="5" ViewCount="760" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an indoor mountain bike park along the lines of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raysmtb.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ray's MTB park&lt;/a&gt; being built near me (though I also road trip to rays and rent a bike).  Most of the riding here seems suited for a dirt jumper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't own a dirt jumper. However, I have a 26er setup for XC riding that I havn't really been using since I got a 29er.  It's an older specialized rockhopper with a rockshox suspension fork, bb5 disc brakes, mountain triple, and 9-speed cassette.  The frame is a bit small for me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What adjustments or parts swaps should I do to make this bike more suitable to this style of riding which includes jumps, rollers, pump tracks, and technical skill sections with narrows, teeter totters, etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T19:10:32.540" Title="How to setup my 26er MTB for indoor MTB park" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;skills&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12482" CreationDate="2012-09-27T13:48:12.310" Score="2" ViewCount="11642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a set of aerobars for free and decided to install them on my hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I just tried them and feel a bit &lt;strong&gt;unstable&lt;/strong&gt;. After checking it out online, I see this is normal, but I wonder if there is an optimal way to install them to reduce instability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Does it &lt;strong&gt;make sense&lt;/strong&gt; to install them &lt;strong&gt;on a hybrid&lt;/strong&gt;? My hands do get numb during a long ride and I have always wanted to shift between positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) While riding them, I feel more in control when my &lt;strong&gt;elbows are on my flat handlebars&lt;/strong&gt; and thus not on the pads. Could this be because my seat isn't high enough (that's another problem altogether since my aluminum seatpost is corroded to my CrMo frame)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbcUL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="4378" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T01:24:10.507" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T01:24:10.507" Title="Aerobars on a hybrid" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12481" CreationDate="2012-09-27T14:31:09.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are unstable because of how your weight shifts on the bike when you move to the aerobars. Hybrids are not really designed to have aerobars, the geometry doesn't really lend itself to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to get rid of the aerobars, and get handlebar extensions for the ends of the bars, much like you see on many mountain bikes. This will allow you to switch between different hand positions, while still keeping control and weight distribution where it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike geometry- The main difference is in the seat tube and head tube angles. As you go from a hybrid (upright riding posture, slack seat tube angle) to a road bike (slightly more leaning forward, steeper seat tube angle) to a time trial frame (leaning on forearms, even steeper seat tubes), you progressively move the weight on the frame further forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also differences in how the bottom bracket is placed in relation to the ground/seat, etc. that are designed to produce a more comfortable ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the weight shift forward happens, the handling of the bike is different. TT frames are notoriously poor handlers compared to road frames, and hybrids handle much different than a traditional road frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you move forward on the hybrid like you would for aerobars, you are moving the weight/center of gravity out of the &quot;sweet spot&quot; for the frame, and handling deteriorates as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2012-09-27T18:50:24.367" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T18:50:24.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12481" CreationDate="2012-09-27T14:37:07.360" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you place your pads more separately more stability you'll get..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5133" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T14:37:07.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2012-09-27T15:47:34.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other answers, there's also cyclocross. People don't typically ride as fast in cyclocross as they do on the open road, thus lower gears might be better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T15:47:34.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12481" CreationDate="2012-09-27T15:58:19.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sense of instability is mostly because your arms are not spread out.  The farther apart you spread your arms, the more stability you get, simply because it takes more motion of the arm to rotate the steering tube by a given amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This effect is amplified on a hybrid, which usually will have a somewhat steeper steering angle, leading to less inherent stability than a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd probably be happier with some sort of &quot;bar end&quot; extensions (if you choose to not simply replace the bar, or the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ppqVy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T15:58:19.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12487" CreationDate="2012-09-27T16:45:37.117" Score="4" ViewCount="2336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an older deore lx front derailleur for a mountain triple crankset. It wasn't shifting properly, and it seems that it's sticking and not returning back to a neutral position when I shift it.  I've tried loosening both limit screws with no change in behavior.  I took it off the bike and tried to move the derailler as if I was shifting, but doing that moves the cage, but it doesn't try to return to the original position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to soak the derailleur in a cleaning solvent (such as kerosene or paint thinner) to remove any gunk that may have built up on inner surfaces.  Should I worry about the solvent damaging parts? Is there anything else to try to revive the stuck derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T19:06:52.093" Title="Front derailleur sticking, not shifting. Will soaking in solvent damage parts?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12486" CreationDate="2012-09-27T17:12:13.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kerosene, gasoline and diesel are fine, because I have used them extensively for years without any problem (I recommend only kerosene, much better than diesel or gasoline).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptoms you describe are a bit odd. Does the spring have enough tension? Is the cage bent in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try the soaking + toothbrushing + lube approach, most probably you'll solve the problem or get a better inside. No fear of chemical damage, whatsoever, even if you leave it on the bike and brush the frame, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T17:12:13.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12491" CreationDate="2012-09-27T18:11:09.103" Score="27" ViewCount="16028" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where should I put the least worn tyre? on the front or the back? This is for XC MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T22:31:43.443" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T22:31:43.443" Title="Least worn tyre: front or back?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12486" CreationDate="2012-09-27T18:36:46.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some derailleurs such as Shimano Tiagra, a small metal nub against which the spring presses is prone to breaking off. In such case there won't be any tension on the spring which could explain the symptoms you're experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5136" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T18:36:46.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12488" CreationDate="2012-09-27T19:07:44.767" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Good or less worn tire should go on the front wheel as indicated in this Sheldon Brown Article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tire Rotation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the article does hint to the fact that you should not be really rotating tires to the front wheel that may have been used on the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The only time tire rotation is appropriate on a bicycle is when you are replacing the rear tire. If you feel like taking the trouble, and use the same type of tire front and rear, you should move the front tire to the rear wheel, and install the new tire in front.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is that the front tire is much more critical for safety than the rear, so you should have the more reliable tire on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a blowout, if it is on the rear tire, you have a very good chance of bringing the bike to a controlled stop. If your front tire blows, you can lose steering control, and a crash is a real possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T19:07:44.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12486" CreationDate="2012-09-27T19:20:28.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So long as it's a good-quality derailer, any common solvent (gasoline, kerosene, diesel, parts cleaner) should be fine (though obviously some are worse than others with regard to the fire/explosion potential).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The danger (other than explosion) would be with a cheap derailer that contains plastic parts (eg, bushings) that are not resistant to petroleum solvents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T19:20:28.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12488" CreationDate="2012-09-27T19:27:23.797" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you want the best tread on the front, as a front tire skid is much more dangerous than a rear tire skid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I tend to ride my tires until the cord nearly shows, and, given that flats are about 5x more common on rear tires than front tires (and front-tire flats are much easier to fix), I'd be tempted to put the better tire on the rear, to reduce flat potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T19:27:23.797" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12417" CreationDate="2012-09-27T21:05:51.163" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A full length mudguard does not serve much purpose to you, but it is a courtesy to other riders who may be trailing behind you: it keeps you from spraying water and debris high into the air behind you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could just stand the bicycle on the mudguard when inside that small lift. You're assuming that the mudguard will be damaged, but perhaps that assumption is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stand the bicycle on the mudguard, the mudguard will probably bend until it makes contact with the wheel, and that will cause the mudguard's supporting rods to also bend. This is not good, but perhaps the situation can be remedied by inserting some spacers between the mudguard and tire, such as eraser rubbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rubber pieces will transfer the force from the contact area where the mudguard rests on the floor directly to the tire, relieving the mudguard and its hardware from stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about scratching the mudguard, you can put some tape on the contact area. (Hmm, will there be a rear reflector on your mudguard?) Or just carry some small cloth for that occasion. You can wrap the erasers in it when it's not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, that rear reflector is another good reason for a full-length rear mudguard. It's a good spot for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T21:05:51.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12488" CreationDate="2012-09-27T21:50:10.853" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;@MrDaniel has a very good answer, however if the bike is used XC MTB a blowout is less of a concern than handling when compared to a road bike, as MTB tires (in true off road conditions) loose performance as they loose tread, unlike a road tire. Your riding style and ground you ride will dictate to some extent what you do. If you have steep, slippery uphills and traction your most important problem, a better tread on the back helps. If control is your problem and you find the front a bit sketchy - then the new one on the front would be better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, don't loose any sleep over it - put it on either the one you are replacing (easy - only one tire change) or the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget that with MTB tires they are all quite different characteristics, build for particular combinations of riding conditions and tradeoffs.  Some are designed specifically for back or front, or you change the rotation direction between front and back - therefore it is not as simple as just considering tread wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T21:50:10.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12497" CreationDate="2012-09-28T02:09:30.453" Score="7" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tandem has two small screws above each bottom bracket, one on each side (so four in total).  I've not seen them on any other bike, and I can't figure out what they're for!  Suggestions so far have been (a) letting water out (except that they're on the top) and (b) putting oil in (except that I didn't think that was how you're meant to service a bottom bracket - I thought you had to take it apart).  I know they're not for an eccentric bracket, as there's other screws elsewhere for that.  Picture of screws on rear bracket here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://s8.postimage.org/z4evs6791/IMG_1950.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://s8.postimage.org/z4evs6791/IMG_1950.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pXlkm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pXlkm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's any help, original bike spec page is here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nkilgariff.com/CBcats/Cat_40/CB15.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.nkilgariff.com/CBcats/Cat_40/CB15.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LjLoG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LjLoG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All help much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5142" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T03:42:00.943" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T03:42:00.943" Title="Help needed identifying mystery screws on 1940s tandem" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12496" CreationDate="2012-09-28T03:27:16.410" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell from your picture because they're out of focus, but they look a bit like grease nipples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/De6Ws.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. like the ones in the top left of the picture.  Do they have the little ball bearing in the middle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T03:27:16.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12496" CreationDate="2012-09-28T03:47:44.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though they sorta look like grease zerks, I doubt that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They could be used to somehow secure the crank bearings.  I would guess that they were used for retaining/adjusting the eccentric, but you indicate that's elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that what you see may be caps over smaller screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried removing one of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T03:47:44.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3579" CreationDate="2012-09-28T04:10:37.107" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh My God! WD-40 is not a Lubricant! It is Water Dispersant-40th Formula. It was developed for the space race in the 50's to displace water to prevent corrosion due to moisture condensing on metal. It forms a hydrophobic coating not a coating of lubricant. Just because anyone can buy Duct Tape and WD-40 and use it on and for anything and everything doesn't mean you should. It' means that person doesn't know anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5143" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T04:10:37.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12496" CreationDate="2012-09-28T04:32:59.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know they're not for an elliptical bracket, as there's other screws elsewhere for that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elliptical? Do you mean &lt;em&gt;eccentric&lt;/em&gt;? Are you sure that's not what they're for? Maybe there's one set of bolts to adjust the orientation, and another to lock it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's also this on the spec sheet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;LUBRICATION: &quot;CB&quot; twin force-feed to brackets and head, oilgun and instructions provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would suggest that there are two grease fittings on the bottom bracket. Modern bikes don't have them, but this ain't a modern bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to be sure is to take it apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T04:32:59.267" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12496" CreationDate="2012-09-28T05:51:32.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grease_fitting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grease fittings&lt;/a&gt; are still to be found on the Big Toys, but just about everything consumer-focused is of a sealed bearing design. @heltonbiker is right... the old stuff is just forced out by the new stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you've got there is the same head design for a fitting that's show in the Wikipedia article too. Your crank isn't the sealed type and probably could use some new grease at least once a decade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5144" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T05:51:32.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3579" CreationDate="2012-09-28T05:54:58.753" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This discussion has been &lt;strong&gt;beat to death&lt;/strong&gt; by motorcyclists. Here's what I've learned from a world that exerts far more power on their chains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Kerosene cleans. If you've got gunk on your chain, that'll make it pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with formulated chain lubes, but people often find them to be sticky and tending to build up gunk.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gear oil with the excess wiped is about as good as it gets.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My personal favorite: ATF fluid. I used to ride a KLR through some pretty nasty stuff and this did a fair job of keeping the chain alive and keeping the gunk off at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;WD-40 is a lubricant like Duct Tape is a patch for your inner tube. Don't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5144" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T05:54:58.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12515" CreationDate="2012-09-28T14:27:37.390" Score="3" ViewCount="12390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a tektro draco hydraulic brakes on my mtb and I would like to know if it is possible to mount a different brand rotor to use with my brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3304" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T21:20:49.153" Title="could I mount a different manufacturer brand rotor to use with my brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12511" CreationDate="2012-09-28T16:48:29.087" Score="7" ViewCount="21245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to free my aluminum seatpost corroded to a CrMo frame. One of the methods is to heat the aluminum seatpost and then to let it cool. In theory, the aluminum will expand twice as fast as steel and hence the expansion/contraction should crack the bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some recommend using a blow torch or even boiling water. I don't have access to a blow torch, but was wondering if there was something better than boiling water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000I8VE68&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Recipe for disaster?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bwf3K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2021-05-15T17:41:55.830" Title="Aluminum seatpost stuck to a steel frame" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;&lt;corrosion&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12503" CreationDate="2012-09-28T16:55:51.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the bolt pattern is the same and the rotor is the same size, it should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T16:55:51.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12488" CreationDate="2012-09-28T16:57:35.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very thoughtful considerations, especially directing the thinking towards MTB terrain given that so many folks drive to trails and might not worry about pavement wear and those safety concerns as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My knee-jerk reaction to the original question was a more superficial performance thought for a MTB:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you rely on a knobby tread and encounter sloppy (muddy/wet) conditions with a worn-down rear tire and a newer front tire, you might be better served rotating the newer tire to the drive tire in the rear. It would have to be a pretty bald rear tire to make the swap noticeable though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have two bald tires and only enough money for one tire, I'd definitely replace the back one first if the conditions are sloppy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4693" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T16:57:35.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12477" CreationDate="2012-09-28T17:10:26.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to considered a hybrid system that utilizes a battery store that the generator feeds into so you can work within the limitations of the hub generator, but supplement it with additional battery light(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, this sort of thing is for recharging gadgets and not necessarily running additional lights. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedalpower.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pedalpower.com.au/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm certain there are electrical experts that could answer if the hub is just a trickle charger for a battery during daylight hours or what the limitations of such a system are based on voltage/amperage/ohms requirements for the various devices. There's also probably some concern around how the battery lights connect to the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More of an alterative to investigate instead of a clear answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4693" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T17:10:26.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12476" CreationDate="2012-09-28T17:34:53.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://chargebikes.com/parts/spoon/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://chargebikes.com/parts/spoon/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have this for Mountain Bike and Brooks B17 on the others.  It you cannot spring for the Brooks then I think the Spoon is pretty good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T17:34:53.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2012-09-28T17:45:05.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is that people (racers especially) like closely spaced gears so they pedal as closely as possible to their optimum cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3302" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T17:45:05.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12409" CreationDate="2012-09-28T17:57:30.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends on how much you ride and your position on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only take short trips and sit upright on the bike, then get a plush big comfy saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to go on longer rides (1+h), you have a sportier (leaned forward) position on the bike, and want to ride often, then give your current saddle another chance. If your bum is not used to sitting on a bike, it will get sore during the first few rides. However, gradually you will build up more muscles in your bum and legs (taking weight off your bum) and the harder saddle will actually be more comfortable than the plushy one. The reason is that the harder, more minimal saddle will only put pressure on your sitbones, where you contact the saddle. The plushy saddle will deform under your weight and put pressure on your soft tissue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leather saddles (like Brooks) are very hard initially, but soften gradually only where your sitbones put pressure on them. Thus, when they're broken in they give support for your sitbones without putting pressure on your soft tissue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3302" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T17:57:30.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12504" CreationDate="2012-09-28T18:35:59.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an identical problem, having been rinding the bike without seat clamp for more than two years now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you have already read something about it, if not I recommend Sheldon Brown on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;subject&lt;/a&gt;. But I must warn you that the ammonia theory didn't work for me, and I tried ammonia on some aluminum sample parts without any visible effect (corrosion, oxide removal, whatever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminum oxide occupies more space than pure aluminum. This, oxidation of aluminum posts create EXTRA VOLUME inside the seat tube, and this can create huge forces;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminum and steel create a GALVANIC PAIR of metals, inducing electrolytic reaction between them, with dire consequences as you have already noticed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the solution, failing the chemical approach, must be oriented towards two possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dilation, a drastic one, but TO THE COLD! Since aluminum dilates more than steel, you should FREEZE the seatpost, by pouring some very very cold substance inside. Liquid nitrogen (frostbite danger), dry ice (perhaps not cold enough) and CO2 cartridges (doesn't remain inside for too long) are good candidates. Perhaps if you wrap a towel around the seat tube, pour boiling water on it, then pour the freezing stuff of your preference inside the seat tube, you'll crack the bond indeed, as you planned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total mechanical disintegration. You'd look for some heavy machining tools (lathes and all) and eat the post from inside. Some damage to the inner surface of the seat tube is very probable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe too much in brute force if the seatpost is frozen inside for too long (more than three months since last &quot;movement&quot;), but skilled shop owners have been asuring me that it is possible (I didn't go all the way with this for now because fortunately the current seat height is working and I don't want to risk being too many days without the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, send some feedback if you get some result!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T18:35:59.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12477" CreationDate="2012-09-28T19:07:52.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically you need to purchase a light designed to work with a bicycle dynamo due to the power characteristics of a dynamo (lights need DC current).  A well sorted hub dynamo (I personally have had great luck with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schmidt hubs&lt;/a&gt;) can produce up to about 6W of power depending on your speed and the design of the hub, which is a reasonable amount of power to work with.  The 3W rating you read may have been a minimum power spec at a specified slow speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of your overall goal of a 800 lumen front plus rear the answer is &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt; (with caveats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Headlights&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two headlight options (that I know of) that can output 800 lumen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exposure Lights &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.use1.com/exposure-lights/cycling-lights/front-lights/revo-mk1-dynamo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Revo Mk1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Super Nova &lt;a href=&quot;http://supernova-lights.com/en/products/e3_triple.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;E3 Triple&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I researched the Supernova &lt;a href=&quot;http://supernova-lights.com/en/products/e3_triple.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;E3 Triple&lt;/a&gt; a while back and they seem to do some impressive trickery to get that output.  Basically them seem to selectively turn LEDs on and off depending on your speed.  The full output will likely be at a reasonably  fast velocity (not sure of the exact numbers). Make no mistake either is a pricey option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Tail lights&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be fully dynamo powered you will need a dynamo specific tail light.  Both companies also taillight options and often you can use different brands of dynamo tail lights with a dynamo head light.  That said, in this case I would carefully research these possibilities as these high output lights as they are doing some funky things to get that max output, which may limit their compatibility with tail lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Note for Commuters&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I would warn against using these high output dynamo head lights for commuting (your ultimate purpose was not stated) as both of these head lights shine above the horizon, like a car high-beam and the 800 lumen output also approaches that a car's headlight.  When you shine above the horizon it is great for seeing overhead branches (on the trail), but you blind oncoming vehicles and cyclists. Ever had a car drive at you with their high-beams on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other dynamo LED options which have mirrors designed not to shine above the horizon (similar to a car's regular headlights).  These are often quoted as passing German road regulations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In North America I don't believe there are any regulations for bicycle lights.  As such, I have noticed more and more riders using very high output trail lights (e.g. excess of 1000 lumen) on the road and blinding everyone with glee.  I have nearly crashed on a bike path as a result of being blinded (I couldn't see anything for a minute afterwards).  While not illegal, it is totally inconsiderate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may start throwing my metal water bottle at offenders this winter :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="8643" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T03:23:10.627" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T03:23:10.627" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12504" CreationDate="2012-09-28T19:08:03.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem I had was getting the ammonia to the corrosion. I hung the bike upside down by both tires so the seat post was vertical. You can either remove the bottom bracket or as I did the bottle cage screw and fill the seat post with straight ammonia. If possible plug the hole so the ammonia doesn't evaporate. I let it hang for 2 days. I then laid the bike on its' side and put a 36&quot; pipe wrench on the seat post and cranked. It broke loose luckily before the seat tube bent. The key is time. The ammonia has to seep down the entire length of the seatpost. Let the ammonia soak for at least 2 days so the chemical reaction has a chance to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T19:08:03.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12480" CreationDate="2012-09-28T19:30:08.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Convert it to a single speed and slam the seatpost. Those will be the biggest things. Add a bash guard up front too for when your rear wheel falls off the teeter-totters and skinnies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shorter stem would be a good addition too. It'll improve the steering for those technical sections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also consider a rigid fork. Suspension isn't really necessary for that type of stuff and can actually be a hindrance. That's why trials and bmx bikes have rigid forks. Surly makes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/1x1_fork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;suspension corrected fork&lt;/a&gt;. Even with the correction, your front end will sit a bit lower than it does now, but you get used to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want rim brakes too (if your bike is set up for either) for the same reason that you'll want a bash guard. You only have to land on a brake rotor once to really mess it up. You can true them to a certain degree, but they're never the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stick with the disc brakes, you could try smaller wheels. 24&quot; perhaps. But if you're going to go that far it's probably a better investment to just sell it (since you haven't been using it anyway) and buy a bike that's built for that type of riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, if you're going to be riding at this park more than once in a blue moon, you'd probably be happier doing that anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T19:30:08.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12503" CreationDate="2012-09-28T23:01:29.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brand of brake doesn't matter. The only variables you should care about are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotor diameter. You should probably get the same size as the old one; for a different size, you'll need an adapter to reposition the brake calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The way the rotor attaches to the hub. Most of them are held on with 6 bolts, but a few use the &quot;Centerlock&quot; attachement which looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TGegw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T23:01:29.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12517" CreationDate="2012-09-29T01:06:41.970" Score="8" ViewCount="2784" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just a general interest kind of question, but I've really been wondering about this lately.  We've had a lot of advancements in bikes over the years, and people are always trying to make them lighter, yet for some reason it seems that the frames keep on getting bigger. Just comparing my old steel road bike to my new aluminum touring bike, here's a quick list of things that are bigger.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wider diameter handle bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 1/8 inch steerer vs. a 1 inch steerer tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wider seat and chain stays.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All main triangle tubes, but the biggest culprit is the down tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork is a little beefier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stem is almost twice as thick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you add all this up, I have an aluminum bike that isn't any lighter than the old steel bike I have.  Why has virtually ever part of the frame been made so much larger?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T04:35:55.153" Title="Why are bike frames getting so much bigger" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12516" CreationDate="2012-09-29T03:23:03.593" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ibiscycles.com/support/technical_articles/metallurgy_for_cyclists/steel_is_real/&quot;&gt;metallurgy for cyclists&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a tube's diameter increases (D), the stiffness increases to the third power of that number (d is the inside diameter). Comparing a one-inch tube and a two-inch tube of equal wall thickness., the fatty is going to be eight times as stiff as the little weenie tube. And the weight will only double. Now does the ride of those Kleins and Cannondales start to make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So wider diameter tubes actually allow for less material to be used for the same amount of stiffness, making for a lighter bike with a similar ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T03:23:03.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12525" CreationDate="2012-09-29T06:37:12.617" Score="40" ViewCount="6461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that one ought to turn the pedals at 90rpm. However, I do so much slower, especially while standing, and would like to understand the argument behind this number (or any other number). So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the optimal cadence of a cyclist. Why? Does it depend on the terrain? Does it depend if the rider is sitting or standing upright? What are some possible consequences of deviating too much from the proposed number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/891/what-cadence-should-i-aim-for&quot;&gt;&quot;What Cadence Should I Aim For&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, but I didn't find there the &quot;whys&quot; except for &quot;it will grind your knees.&quot; However, I find riding upright with slow cadance no more demanding than walking up a hill with a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T08:57:56.223" Title="What is the optimal cadence?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-29T10:35:59.400" Score="2" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just performed an upgrade of brake levers on my Plug Racer, from the original cross-style levers (top mounted, possibly Promax 239A models) to Cane Creek 200TT bar end levers, connecting them to the original Tektro R538 brake calipers. The change of handlebar position entailed the installation of new cabling and housing also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The response I get when braking has changed significantly post-upgrade, with a very spongey action. Having done a bit of research into why this might be, it would appear to be an excess of mechanical advantage in the braking system (as discussed by Sheldon &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html#ma&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#brakelever&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), a result of the new levers being of a short-pull type, and the original calipers requiring a long pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to confirm the 'pull' characteristics of the components in question however (the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canecreek.com/resources/products/brakes-levers/manuals/200TT_Brake_Lever_Instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;200TT manual&lt;/a&gt; just says &quot;200TT brake levers are compatible with caliper brakes&quot;, and instructions for the R538s are not available from Tektro), so before I go and look for a compatible set of brake calipers, is there anything else that might cause spongey action in the braking system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5156" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T12:37:51.207" Title="Brake response is spongey post-brake lever upgrade" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12533" CreationDate="2012-09-29T11:09:18.683" Score="0" ViewCount="3573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a ten gear cassette in the rear and the top gear is fine.  But, if I'm in my next four or five gears before the top gear I get a clicking noise of the type you get when you shift and it doesn't quite make it to the next gear.  The noise is worse if I'm in my lower gear up front.  Also, shifting down in the rear is a little wonky.  It is a Fuji Cross Comp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2528" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T12:04:56.597" Title="Back Gears Clicking" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12521" CreationDate="2012-09-29T12:26:11.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are just cross chaining. Bicycle drive trains are designed so that if you are in your small chainring, you should be in one of the larger sprockets, and vice-versa. The chain is meant to be relatively parallel to the center line of your frame. When you deviate too much from this, the chain will rub on the derailleur. Cross-chaining is advised against because it increases wear, and you likely have a similar ratio with a different combination. It's not so bad to do it once in a while though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your front shifter may have a trim setting, which is kind-of a half-click between the main gears. This is a setting so that you can move the derailleur a little so that the chain won't rub when you are cross-chaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T12:26:11.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12520" CreationDate="2012-09-29T12:37:51.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get more sponginess for one of two reasons:  More mechanical advantage (meaning the lever must move farther to move the pads a given amount) or more flex somewhere -- either in the levers/pivots, or in the cable and it's mounting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The cable mounting can be an unsuspected source of flex if the cable doesn't approach the mount squarely and the first bit of lever motion is &quot;spent&quot; just forcing the cable to line up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a psychological factor -- activating a lever in a different direction or with different parts of your fingers can &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; to have more/less flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T12:37:51.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12322" CreationDate="2012-09-29T15:15:23.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mechanic bleed the lines which fixed the problem. They really didn't know what caused this -- they implied it could have been an issue with manufacturing or assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5034" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T15:15:23.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12518" CreationDate="2012-09-29T15:25:26.903" Score="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Optimal&quot; cadence varies with what you're trying to optimze, so your question doesn't have a simple answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Freely-chosen Cadence vs. a Targeted Cadence&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A recent review by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19417224&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hansen et al.&lt;/a&gt; summarizes what is currently known about factors affecting choice of cadence. In particular, they conclude &quot;[d]uring high-intensity cycling, close to the maximal aerobic power output, cyclists choose an energetically economical cadence that is also favorable for performance. In contrast, the choice of a relatively high cadence during cycling at low-to-moderate intensity is uneconomical and could compromise performance during prolonged cycling.&quot; The first sentence means that experienced cyclists freely choose the cadence that produces good performances and they don't need to have someone dictate what that cadence is. The last sentence means that having an inappropriate cadence forced on you can be detrimental to performance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cadence and Power&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relatively recent proliferation of on-bike power meters that record both power and cadence has helped provide additional data that bears on the issue. By definition, a cyclist's power output = cadence * crank torque * a conversion constant (the conversion constant depends on the units you use for measuring power, cadence, and torque; if you measure power in watts, cadence in radians per second, and crank torque in Newton meters, the conversion constant is 1). If you are racing at high power, or riding leisurely at low power along a bike path with your children, or on a spirited ride with friends, you will certainly choose different power levels; what has become clear from the data is that riders, even very experienced ones, choose different combinations of cadence and crank torque to match higher or lower levels of power. They do not always choose a fixed cadence and change gears in order to keep in robotic lockstep with that number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cadence and the Type of Ride&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if we exclude leisurely riding and focus only on racing (at high power), cadence and crank torque vary according to the type of race. Here are cadence-crank torque plots for the same (domestic pro) rider in three different types of races: a road race, a criterium race, and a time trial. Torque is measured in Newton-meters, while cadence is measured in rpm. The thin red dotted lines show the combinations of cadence and torque that produce 300, 500, and 700 watts. As you may be able to see, the three different types of races call for different combinations of cadence and crank torque. The time trial shown here was done at a relatively steady power level but the road race and criterium race were much more variable. For those races, the rider attained higher power by increasing &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; cadence and crank torque. This is a quite common pattern for road racing, and it helps to explain why observers often remark that racers pedal at high cadence: the racers are also pedaling at high power and high crank torque but the only visible clue is the high cadence. This, then, is the basis for the sentences quoted from Hansen et al. above: the cadence used to produce high power appears to be neither economical nor performance-enhancing at low power. Just because you see a Tour de France rider pedal at X rpm doesn't mean you should pedal at X rpm (unless you also produce Tour de France levels of power). Likewise, just because you see that a Tour de France rider spends little of his time at Y rpm doesn't mean you should avoid pedaling at Y rpm. Your needs, abilities, and goals will differ. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/balL3.png&quot; alt=&quot;cadence torque for three different races by same rider&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cadence and Terrain&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question also asked whether cadence varies with terrain. Here is a plot of cadence and torque for a rider who was doing a set of hill intervals. The upper left panel shows his cadence and torque over the entire ride. The upper right panel shows the elevation profile for his ride; as can be seen, the ride was slightly rolling from his house out to a hill which he climbed and descended four times, then he returned home over the rolling road. That upper right panel marks the climbing portion of his ride in red. The bottom two panels show his cadence and torque for the corresponding black and red portions of the ride. As before, the thin dotted lines (this time, in blue) show &quot;isopower contours.&quot; Clearly, he used different combinations of cadence and torque on the climbing sections than on the descending and rolling sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oItZO.png&quot; alt=&quot;cadence and torque on the flat and on hills&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To emphasize this point, here is a plot that shows cadence vs. estimated road gradient for ProTour rider Gustav Larsson during Stage 3 of the 2009 Tour of California. As you can see, even if we exclude periods of coasting, his cadence varied from around 20 rpm up to around 120 rpm, and as the road gradient became steeper, his cadence decreased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkdHC.png&quot; alt=&quot;cadence during a ProTour race with gradient&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cadence and Crank Torque&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you wonder about the relationship between cadence and crank torque? Here is a plot showing another rider in a &quot;pure&quot; hill climb. The upper left panel shows the relationship between cadence and power; the upper right shows the relationship between crank torque and power; and the bottom two panels show the relationship between cadence and crank torque, one with and one without isopower contours. The bottom panels make clearer that there is often an inverse relationship between cadence and crank torque, but the upper panels show that in this instance crank torque was a larger determinant of power output than cadence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ORTw2.png&quot; alt=&quot;power, cadence, and torque during a hill climb&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cadence and Knee Strain&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some riders claim that slow cadences (below, say, 60 rpm) can injure knees. However, slow cadence cannot by itself injure knees; as you sit at your desk reading these words, your “cadence” is almost surely close to zero but the force on your knees is also low. Riders who make these claims are conflating low cadence with high force. From the plots provided it should be clear that one of the simplest ways to expose the knees to lower force is simply to ride at lower power. Riding at 60 rpm at low power can be done with low pedal force; riding at 90 rpm at high power must be done with high pedal force. So level of power output (also known as “workload”) is a key to understanding joint strain. In the mid-1980s, M. Ericson published a series of studies examining forces on the hip, knee, ankle, foot, and the leg muscles during cycling including &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3468609&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. Importantly, he concluded, “[o]f the four parameters studied (workload, pedalling rate, saddle height, pedal foot position) workload was the most important adjustment factor for change of joint load and muscular activity. An increased pedalling rate increased the muscular activity in most of the muscles investigated, generally without changing the joint load. Increased saddle height decreased the maximum flexing knee load moment, but did not significantly change the flexing hip or dorsiflexing ankle load moment. Muscular activity in most of the muscles investigated was not generally changed by different saddle heights.”  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cadence and trainers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some riders will use their indoor trainers and observe that their &quot;preferred&quot; &#xA;cadence (perhaps for a particular level of power or heart rate) is X rpm, and then try to ride at that rpm outdoors. As we have seen above, freely-chosen cadence varies with terrain, power, and the way that resistance scales with speed. Of importance here is that trainers also vary in the way that resistance scales with speed. Below you can see a plot for the same rider on two different types of trainers but using the same gear ratio on both: a trainer with a fluid resistance unit, and on rollers. Each dot shows the cadence and crank torque at one second intervals. As you can see, these two types of trainers have very different resistance curves, with the rollers being much &quot;flatter&quot; with increasing rpm. In order to attain the same power, the rider appears to choose higher cadence (and lower crank torque). In order to attain the same level of power (say, 175 watts) the rider's freely chosen cadence varies with the type of resistance. &quot;Transferring&quot; indoor trainer cadence to an outdoor ride ignores both that outdoor rides vary, but also that trainers vary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y0XxD.png&quot; alt=&quot;cadence and crank torque for trainer and rollers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&quot;...but..but the hour record is set at high cadence!&quot;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, most of the UCI hour records over the last 50 years have been set with cadences from about 100 rpm to 107 rpm (with the notable exception of Obree, who set his records at 93 and 95 rpm). However, the hour record is set with a fixed-gear bicycle on a track and, more importantly, all of the records have been set at high power and high crank torque. Below you can see the cadence and crank torque for many of the recent hour records based on data from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10589872&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bassett et al.&lt;/a&gt;; the plot shows that for recent records set at sea level, average power ranged from around 370 to 460 watts and crank torque ranged from 36 to 43 Nm. One wouldn't tell a novice rider to pedal at a constant crank torque of 40 Nm yet many advise novices to ride at close to 100 rpm. Using the cadence of world record setting events achieved on a fixed gear on a velodrome track as a guide for more general riding makes about as much sense as using the crank torque of the same world record setting events achieved on a fixed gear on a velodrome track as a guide for more general riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CLR9i.png&quot; alt=&quot;cadence and crank torque for hour records&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conclusion from all of this is that cadence varies both with the ride and with the rider. In that sense, asking about &quot;optimal cadence&quot; is, in isolation of the characteristics of the ride and rider, a red herring. Without the proper context, asking about optimal cadence is like asking about optimal power, or optimal crank torque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2018-01-09T19:39:34.250" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T19:39:34.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12518" CreationDate="2012-09-29T18:05:55.863" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, unless you aspire to be a professional racer (or at least a highly competitive amateur) ignore the advice that you &quot;must turn at least 90 rpm&quot; or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, even if you DO have such aspirations, you're not going to do well by trying to achieve a high cadence right from the start -- it's something that you must develop slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to climbing, it's perfectly natural to slow down your cadence a bit as you climb.  However, the mistake many rank amateurs make (and some even ranker ones who think they're hotshots) is to try to force their way up a hill in a gear that's too difficult, with too low a cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rule I find works well for most non-competitive situations is to never pedal slower than you're breathing and target a cadence that's about twice your respiration rate.  This lets you drop your cadence for a casual ride and provides a good guideline for most circumstances up to full race conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to what cadence is &quot;ideal&quot;, I have seen studies done maybe 15 years ago suggesting that a cadence of about 85 is optimal for most in-shape cyclists on level ground -- this optimizes overall power and endurance for a ride of medium duration (though I don't recall what &quot;medium duration&quot; was).  But in that study some riders did better at 90 or 100, and some at 80.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to the knees, it is possible to damage your knees riding without immediate pain (though you'd probably notice some knee discomfort 12-24 hours later).  I'm guessing a lot of fixie riders will be complaining of knee problems in another 5-10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T18:05:55.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12528" CreationDate="2012-09-29T20:09:16.523" Score="7" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of building a bike with a new frame and fork. The groupset will be from a donor bike. When it comes to fitting the bike and cutting the steerer I would like to do some trial rides to check the fit prior to cutting the steerer.Can I leave the steerer long and install spacers above and below the stem until I get the fit correct? Could I leave a spacer on the top so potential resale would be more likely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T22:18:12.433" Title="Can I leave headset spacers above and below the stem" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12527" CreationDate="2012-09-29T22:18:12.433" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. I do this on most of my bikes so I can do a quick fit for a friend when needed and to broaden the appeal for resale. Just make sure to snug up the compression like normal prior to tightening the stem and you will be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T22:18:12.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12516" CreationDate="2012-09-30T04:35:55.153" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's because of the differing characteristics of steel and aluminum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With either material, you can apply stress to them, they will bend, and then when you remove the stress, they will bend back. However, if you keep doing that, they behave very differently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For steel (and titanium), if you keep the stress below a given level (known as the fatigue limit), you can essentially bend them and they will come back for an infinite number of cycles. Aluminum, on the other hand, does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have this behavior; each time you bend it, you fatigue the metal a bit, and over time, this accumulates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for bike frames, you can build a frame using steel tubing that will flex a little during use, and as long as it doesn't flex too much, it will last a long, long time. Try to do this with an aluminum frame, you will get fatigue, and it will break. To try to get around this, aluminum frames are made with larger tubing, which is more rigid and bends less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T04:35:55.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12521" CreationDate="2012-09-30T12:04:56.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the chain is running smoothly in the top gear (the smallest sprocket) but it runs poorly in the larger sprockets then it is most likely that the cable tension is too loose.  The cable tension pulls the chain onto the larger sprockets.  Insufficient tension means it won't change cleanly on to them (which I think is what is meant by changing 'down' a gear) and even when the gear has changed the derailleur won't be aligned properly and the chain will be noisy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the smallest sprocket works OK is because the position of the derailleur is limited by one of the adjustment screws at that extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause has been given by Daniel R Hicks' comment above &quot;in the first few hundred miles, the cables stretch a bit&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tighten the cable by turning the cable adjuster anticlockwise.  Use small changes as these 10-speed systems are very sensitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find the sweet spot with the adjuster then it is also possible that the derailleur has got knocked and is no longer aligned properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T12:04:56.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12542" CreationDate="2012-09-30T13:01:50.410" Score="-2" ViewCount="984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am from India and planning to buy a MTB bicycle. My budget is around Rs. 7k - 8k.&#xA;I am confused between the two ranges&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hero Octane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hercules Roadeo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone suggest me any good sites for bicycle reviews in India, or suggest me which brand would be better than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4748" LastEditorUserId="4748" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T10:31:29.380" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T10:31:29.380" Title="Online Sources of Reviews of MTB bicycles in INDIA" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-10-03T17:27:31.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12537" CreationDate="2012-09-30T14:56:11.047" Score="0" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I was having &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12521/back-gears-clicking&quot;&gt;this problem&lt;/a&gt;.  Taking the advice, I messed with the barrel adjusters.  Now, every gear is working great except the highest gear and lowest gear.  I put my bike in the highest gear and I can still click the shifter once more, but nothing happens.  When it comes time to shift down gears, I have to click the shifter once before shifting has any effect.  In the lowest gear, the chain jumps.  I have to hold down the shifter to stay in gear there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2528" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T00:17:38.467" Title="Lowest Gear Out of Whack" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12536" CreationDate="2012-09-30T15:45:39.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a video that explains how to adjust your rear derailleur. Since you didn't mention adjusting the high gear or low gear adjusting screws, this may be your problem area. Sometimes it's best to start with all adjustments in a &quot;neutral&quot; condition before you attempt to &quot;fine tune&quot; the derailleur. It would benefit you to tell us the brand and model of your deraileur syatem the next time you have a problem. Even different models from the same company, can have their little &quot;quirks&quot; ofetn learned by experience rather than instructions. Hope this will help you out! Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/2j1gSwhsVN8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5168" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T15:45:39.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2012-09-30T16:00:28.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since sand is &quot;gritty&quot;, you should spend extra time making sure you have absolutely removed every bit of sand from the chain links so you get better wear from your chain and gears! You can do either a &quot;on the bike cleaning&quot; and lubrication or a complete removal of the chain to clean and lubricate it. If you continually ride in this type of environment, a complete removal/lubrication would be best. Here are the two different methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method one:&#xA;On-Bike Cleaning&#xA;Before each ride, look at the entire chain by standing to the side of your bike and lifting the rear wheel off the ground. Using your free hand, rotate the closest pedal slowly backward, inspecting the individual chain links for dirt buildup, rust and/or tight links (links that do not bend easily as they pass through the rear derailleur). Check for adequate lubrication by listening for squeaks while riding. If you find either condition, your chain needs at least a spot-cleaning. &#xA;To spot-clean the chain while it's still installed on your bike, simply brush out the links with a firm brush (toothbrushes work well) and relubricate the links from time to time with a chain lubricant. Remember to wipe off excess lubricant with a clean, dry rag so that it doesn't pick up new dirt. Over-lubricating can cause as many problems as under-lubricating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method two:&#xA;Off-Bike Cleaning&#xA;Every few months or so (more often for mountain bikes), completely remove your chain (using a chain-removal tool), brush it well and completely immerse it in a chain solvent to get rid of built-up grime that brushing can't remove. Let the chain soak until most of the dirt has been freed from the links and bushings. Dry the entire chain using a clean rag. Make sure that the solvent has completely evaporated, then relubricate the chain and re-install. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to use a recommended lubricant on the chain, and follow the directions for applying and removing excess lubricant. Just remember...WD-40 IS NOT a lubricant! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5168" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T16:00:28.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12575" CreationDate="2012-09-30T18:20:33.290" Score="-1" ViewCount="9916" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to cycle while holding an Umbrella? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously it's at least a little less safe than biking without holding something in your left (or right) hand. But how much more dangerous is it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, suppose that I'm biking on a flat-ish, smooth surface, on a day with almost no wind (say 5km/h), at moderate speeds (say 15km/h) and in enough rain that the umbrella is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute by bike every day, and have recently moved to a new location where the weather often produces these conditions, and where the folding bike and roads I ride on often lead to the above scenario. Recently I have begun riding with an umbrella in hand after observing several other riders doing so, and have fallen off thrice while learning, producing one minor injury to my toe. For comparison, I had one fall and no injuries while learning to use clipless pedals, and one other injury-free fall in the last 5 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I really want to know is this: Assuming someone does this regularly (presumably like the other riders I see), is someone who rides in the conditions mentioned above 10% more likely to suffer a serious accident or 10 times more likely? In the former case, I view the enjoyment / safety tradeoff as being clearly in favor of the umbrella, in the latter I take the opposite view and will stop doing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I'd like to see a study on the subject, but since such a thing doesn't exist (AFAIK), guesswork or anecdotes will suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T09:01:47.020" Title="Is it safe to Cycle with an Umbrella?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;weather&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12480" CreationDate="2012-09-30T19:10:32.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the tips jimirings has stated, but if possible I would sell the Rockhopper and pick up a second hand jump bike - they're simpler bikes and park oriented ones rarely see the outdoors so tend to be in a better condition than their dirt brethren.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Rockhopper's geometry is wholly unsuitable for street/park riding, it's too tall, designed for 100mm forks, and has long chainstays; which all adds up to bike that doesn't want to bunny hop and struggles to to be 360-ed.  It is designed for a &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; different use and environment.  And I say this with experience, I used to own one, and I also tried converting my sisters to a street style - absolute failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T19:10:32.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12545" CreationDate="2012-09-30T23:01:51.883" Score="6" ViewCount="2427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike with a triple, a track bike with a high gear ratio.  Which should I use on my trainer for use with training videos?  Should I use a geared bike, freewheel single speed or fixed gear? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T16:16:07.837" Title="Should I use a road bike or track bike on my rollers or trainer?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12534" CreationDate="2012-09-30T23:15:34.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With some quick Googling I was able to determine that 7k-8k rupees is equivalent to an $130 to $150 USD price range.  It seems that the bikes you are looking at are full suspension mountain bikes, and look pretty similar to the bikes sold in department stores in the US. Bikes in this price range are generally not found on review sites because they are pretty much bottom of the line, and there isn't much good that can be said about them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that price range you are much better off buying a used bike that is of much better quality.  If you want to buy new, I would stay away from the full suspension mountain bikes because the suspension isn't that good anyway and the money you'll save from the lack of suspension means the rest of the bike will be better quality.  Plus you'll probably save quite a bit on weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T23:15:34.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10207" CreationDate="2012-09-30T23:36:03.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bicycle is considered a &quot;vehicle&quot; and is supposed to obey the same traffic laws as a motor vehicle...stop signs, turning lanes, signaling a turn, etc.. A bicyclist of average health and condition could ride a bicycle 50 to 100 miles in a day without too much of a problem. An average pedistrian, walking or running, could not likely achieve those same mileages. In Ohio, a bicyclist has the right to actually occupy a complete lane of travel when necessary. I've only seen a cyclist do this one time, and he was holding up traffic for about 4 blocks! It's no wonder with antics like this that drivers get upset with a bicyclist. Just because you have the right to do this, doesn't mean you should use that right! I prefer to stay as far to the right as possible, only moving to the center of the lane to execute a left hand turn. Creating harmony is much better than causing friction! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5168" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T23:36:03.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1361" CreationDate="2012-10-01T00:14:14.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, you must make sure that your bicycle is fitted properly. You need to make sure the frame size and saddle height and &quot;tilt&quot; is adjusted correctly. Your local bike shop can assist you with fitting the bike and saddle. It would seem that a wide and soft saddle would be best ( I did! ), but that isn't necessarily true. I found that a narrower gel padded saddle, ( Avocet ), was much more comfortable on longer rides ( this type of saddle will still break down and seem harder after a couple of years of use ), and recently purchased a Brooks leather B-17 saddle. These leather saddles need lots of breaking in and proper care before they're &quot;comfortable&quot;, but you'll need to wear either padded cycling shorts or padded underwear beneath your clothing on all but the shortest distances with a leather saddle. Lots of &quot;saddle time&quot; also makes a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5168" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T00:14:14.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12541" CreationDate="2012-10-01T00:19:10.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike to use will depend on the reason for using the trainer. If your use of the trainer is for off season track training use the track bike, road racing  use the triple,etc. If you just want some saddle time, the triple will simulate all of them to an extent, you can select the gearing of the track bike,the fixie or the single and leave it there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T00:19:10.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6135" CreationDate="2012-10-01T00:28:55.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To prevent grease from getting on your pants leg to begin with on the commute, I'd suggest using those straps to hold your pants legs from flapping around. They're usually available at the LBS. To remove any grease, you could keep a small spray bottle of Simple Green at work, mixed at the strength you want, and just slightly wet the grease stain and then dab on the Simple Green and work it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5168" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T00:28:55.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12550" CreationDate="2012-10-01T01:19:00.587" Score="2" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 boxxer team fork on my bike.  I'd like to buy the firmer spring as I am heavier than the last owner.  Can I put the spring from a 2010/2011/2012 boxxer in there or was there something specific about the spring from 2009 that would require me to find one meant specifically for that year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only ask as I can get a really screaming deal on a spring set from a newer boxxer fork.  So if it would work I'd like to go with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5169" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T07:02:31.587" Title="2009 Boxxer Team Dual Crown - Are springs different from 2010 + models?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12534" CreationDate="2012-10-01T04:16:28.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some alternatives you could consider at that price point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rockrider 5.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hercules ACT 110 Steel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firefox Cyclone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good second hand bike is a good option too - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bumsonthesaddle.com/marketplace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bumsonthesaddle.com/marketplace&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a simple bike and avoid buying bicycles with suspensions in this range.&#xA;More details - &lt;a href=&quot;http://help.bumsonthesaddle.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://help.bumsonthesaddle.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1842" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T04:16:28.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2285" CreationDate="2012-10-01T04:45:02.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly cross-check&lt;/a&gt; as my all-purpose bike. I use 23/28 mm (summer/winter) &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/00443&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bontrager Race lite hard-case&lt;/a&gt; tires for day-to-day (including towpath/flat trail). I have a second set of old wheels/tread tires that I can stick on if I'm planning on going across very rough terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5170" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T04:45:02.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12547" CreationDate="2012-10-01T07:02:31.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  Between 2009 and 2010 the stanchion width increased by 3mm (so the spring followed), and the slider end of the 2010 spring is shaped to interface with the bottom of slider - whereas it isn't on the 2009 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T07:02:31.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12539" CreationDate="2012-10-01T07:03:28.097" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  It absolutely isn't.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know what happens when an umbrella catches the wind.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine that on an unstable device doing 30 mph.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even without wind the rain will be blowing in your face most of the time so you'd have to place the umbrella right in front of you for it to offer any kind of effective shielding from the rain.  How are you supposed to see anything with an umbrella in front of you?  Even a transparent one will be rain-soaked and impossible to see through.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's not even considering the fact that you've got one hand off the handlebars all the time.  How are you supposed to signal a turn if you only have one hand on the handlebars anyway?  And God help you if a child runs into the road in front of you and you need both hands to apply sufficient braking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't even consider it.  Get a rain coat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T07:03:28.097" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12553" CreationDate="2012-10-01T09:11:04.540" Score="5" ViewCount="1776" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some stylish flat fenders out there. I'm referring to those fenders that have no curvature across the width of the tire, though they do curve around the wheel. Some of these fenders seem to only be as wide as the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This question is posed to people who have used flat fenders:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you ever find that you get some splash, say on your legs, or the outer edges of your butt/back? Or are they completely fine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When answering, please also tell me whether your flat fender was the same width as the tire, or a bit wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="910" LastEditorUserId="910" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T18:50:46.027" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T18:50:46.027" Title="Do flat fenders work fine?" Tags="&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12552" CreationDate="2012-10-01T09:18:30.633" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak as a user of them, but I can as one who has followed them. They seem to work reasonably well, but they aren't as good at protecting people behind you - the arc behind them is narrower than the traditional curved in guard. I would think that in this regard, wider would seem to be better&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this they are better than the horizontally flat guards you see, which do nothing to protect those following you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're only worried about your back and legs, these seem fine - but if you're concerned for your fellow travelers, I'd be less keen on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T09:18:30.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-01T09:59:55.777" Score="3" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to improve as a cyclist, I have a goal that I want to start racing by next summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know what is the best start I can give myself in or order to prepare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard part, it's coming into winter and my cycle computer broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best training I can do to get race season?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on doing an 90 min hill climb route after work twice a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm very green to all this so be gentle :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T20:23:49.097" Title="Cycle training to prepare for first racing season" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12552" CreationDate="2012-10-01T11:35:02.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two factors:  1) Since they don't &quot;hug&quot; the wheel as closely they aren't quite as effective for a given width.  2) They aren't as stiff, meaning they'll vibrate somewhat worse with a given mounting technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T11:35:02.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12596" CreationDate="2012-10-01T12:26:37.973" Score="12" ViewCount="33600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took off the front wheel off of my mountain bike, and have been having considerably difficulty getting the front wheel on the right spot such that the wheel doesn't rub against the brake when I'm riding. I know there is clearance possible, because if I pull the quick release on my wheel and turn the wheel, it spins just fine. What can I do to align the brake properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastActivityDate="2020-09-19T23:34:16.997" Title="Adjusting disk brakes after taking off the wheel" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12556" CreationDate="2012-10-01T14:35:00.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you mean that the disk caliper pads are rubbing on the rotor when the lever is not being used/squeezed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The fixed/non-moving pad/side in the caliper on my brakes are adjusted with an allen key from that outer side of the caliper. If it has been a while this bolt could require some effort to get moving.  On my brakes there is a detent such that I back off the bolt one click at a time and see how the clearance is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The moving pad/side in the caliper is adjusted by cable tension in the usual way, i.e. with the barrel adjuster at the lever or the pinch bolt at the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5172" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T14:35:00.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12554" CreationDate="2012-10-01T15:21:22.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet for your first season will most likely be just TITS, Time In The Saddle. Much like running, it's the day in and day out consistency that will bring some of your best improvements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't &quot;need&quot; a cycle computer, although they do help. Until you can get it replaced, just go by perceived effort. Go out one day and just go as hard as you can for thirty minutes. Remember how that feels, and spend a lot of your time riding at 70-80% of that level over varied terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get closer to race season (A couple months out), start adding in things like 2x20 minutes hard effort, with 5 mins easy spin in between, or 10 minutes of 30 seconds sprint, 30 seconds spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also highly recommend finding a group ride, preferably a &quot;no drop&quot; type of ride. (That means that they periodically stop and regroup all the people that have dropped off the back). One it gets you out for consistent training, two you start getting used to riding in a group/pack, and the handling skills necessary. This will be critical when you get to race season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of all, have fun! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T15:21:22.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12554" CreationDate="2012-10-01T19:21:05.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An optimal training regimen will include about three hard efforts a week, with at least one rest or recovery day in between those efforts. Trying to put in any more hard efforts than this has shown to be detrimental by most trainers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclo-computers are an important tool, but if you have your mileage mapped out ahead of time computers are not critical. The most important tool of all to help you with your training is a heart rate monitor. If you don’t’ have one. Get one. It is extremely hard to gauge your effort without one, this is especially true for training on a stationary bike or trainer. When you get another bike-computer get one with a cadence monitor. Cadence is especially important if you are training for road racing. The cadence monitor will teach you proper cadence and keep you from becoming a pedal masher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hill climbs are a good strategy because they force hard efforts, so are intervals especially if you are using a trainer. I define a hard effort as keeping myself above 85% of my max heart rate for most of the ride. I would sustain between 85% – 95% for a full 90 minutes and  get a really good, hard work out. As a beginner this may be difficult, so see what you can do and adjust your goals accordingly. Seriously test your limits. You may be surprised how long you can go at a seemingly impossible pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fueling up is important. If you don’t fuel up before putting in a hard effort your body will use up it’s energy stores in around 60 minutes. At around that time I would find myself really beginning to fade. I started fueling up with a light 200 – 300 calorie carb and sugar snack an hour before riding and I could keep going strong long after the 60 minute mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recovery rides in between hard training sessions are important but the amateur does not always have the option. My schedule didn’t allow for them and as a result I would get sore muscles more prone to injury. Recovery rides are VERY light rides, that keep your heart rate below 140. A rider who is very aggressive about training is going to find it very difficult to ride at a pace this slow. Think leisure and get training out of your mind when doing these type of rides. Because the effort is minimal mountain bike trails are generally not very suitable for recovery rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep a training log. Log time, distance, Average MPH, effort, conditions and brief notes on how you felt. This will help you focus and allow you to see your progress. I had a loop I would ride every month or so that I would use to see how I had progressed physically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don’t let the weather inhibit your training. Learn to dress for it. Your body generates a tremendous amount of heat while cycling and this allows you to train comfortably in almost any condition. Keeping the feet warm is still a challenge so it’s worth investing in winter cycling shoes and wool socks. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pennsylvaniadirt.com/2009/01/cold-weather-gear.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a cold weather cycling article I wrote.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider spin classes. A couple of winter’s of deep snow forced me indoors. Coupled with a heart rate monitor, spin classes provided good, hard, motivating training sessions. Because the sessions were usually short, 45 minutes, I would also ride the trainer before and after the class or find back to back sessions and ride the whole way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my culmination of a lot of research, advice and practical application. I trained and raced seriously for several years and I got good results out this training regimen. I am currently ‘retired’ due to a back injury but I raced as an expert level mountain biker and was winner the Sport Vet 2009 WVMBA mountain bike series. This regimen served me well. Good luck with your training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5173" LastEditorUserId="5173" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T20:23:49.097" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T20:23:49.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12488" CreationDate="2012-10-01T19:59:02.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Place the less worn tire on the front. You need very little tread to achieve traction on the rear tire when climbing. Though counter intuitive, tire tread has very little impact on keeping your rear tire from slipping and spinning out on a climb. Maintaining traction is much more about torque, and weight and body positioning on the bike.  I intentionally use a rear tire with low worn out center tread to reduce drag and increase rolling efficiency. Center tread on the rear tire may help keep the tail from bouncing and sliding around a bit, but this is not critical in maintaining control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5173" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T19:59:02.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1751" CreationDate="2012-10-01T23:19:25.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have been using proofide on my champion flyer for about four years now. it works great. it absorbs better in warm weather, not really in cold winter months. i would not use any thing else, period!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5175" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T23:19:25.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12556" CreationDate="2012-10-02T00:16:01.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Arbalest has the correct answer for one specific problem with brakes with just one cylinder, If that is not it, the best way would be to reset the caliper alignment. I am not expert, theres heaps of information on how to do it - the owners manual is a good start - it's not hard, but a novice may need a couple of goes at it to get it spot on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, loosen the bolts holding the caliper enough so it moves, but is not loose. Pump the brakes gently a couple of times with the wheel spinning (in normal direction). Then while applying the brakes &quot;firmly but not hard&quot; (i.e. enough to hold the caliper in place),  slowly tighten the bolts, alternating between them 1/2 turn at a time (so it tightens evenly on each side). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T00:16:01.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12556" CreationDate="2012-10-02T02:46:27.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem with more than one bike, and risk factors for that are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick-release hubs (as opposed to 20 mm, thru-axle);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long travel forks;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Light&quot; or otherwise delicate forks (even good quality ones);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical brakes (one pad non-moving);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large-diameter (8 inch) disks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that, due to the very tight distance between the disk and the pads, a minimal amount of &quot;shape changing&quot; creates rub and noise. This shape changing might occur between opening and closing the quick release, or because of more aggressive twisting forces while cornering on difficult terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, a little rubbing is not a real problem, but much more of a nuisance, and even very small rubs can cause an unpleasant noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible solution, and one that works for me when I'm in an &quot;I need silence&quot; mood, is to catch the front wheel of the bike in a corner, or even against a wall or a tree or a fence, and TWIST THE HANDLEBARS. If you do this gently, you'll notice that the fork twists (a tiny bit of course) enough to make the disk reposition itself inside the caliper, also showing the direction you should apply a greater force to reposition the disk/caliper &quot;permanently&quot;, and this is enough to solve the problem, but only if the rubbing is minimal (otherwise it is necessary to properly adjust the brake).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I am not suggesting to twist anything in a way that would cause damage, but I think some setups are so prone to misalignments that the same poison should cure the disease, and that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, of course this problem has a WAY smaller chance to happen with non-quick-release. 20mm thru-axle hubs/forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T02:46:27.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12552" CreationDate="2012-10-02T02:55:50.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have regular (curved around) full fenders in one commuter, and nothing on other, this one with skinny tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the fenderless one, when water from the front tire hits the downtube, I feel like every drop of it is projected sidwards, and my feet quickly get wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, on the fender-equiped one, only the water projected directly from puddles hit my feet, and every water that hits the fender is (or looks like it is) directed towards the middle of the fender and eventually goes out by its lower side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, although I have never used flat fenders like shown in the photo, I am afraid they protect much less than their more common curved counterparts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T02:55:50.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12539" CreationDate="2012-10-02T03:00:14.390" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you could strap one of these to your helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xrHZb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then at least your hands are free and it's always pointed in the right direction. It'd probably get torn away in super high wind (hopefully not with your head). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find a picture but you could even try it with one of those deep, shoulder width, clear umbrellas too. Then your shoulders would be covered too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way your feet/hands/arms/legs are all still going to get wet and unless you have fenders your butt and back are going to get wet too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4574" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T03:00:14.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12539" CreationDate="2012-10-02T07:10:10.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will share how do I commute in rain to work. I haven't tried an umbrella, however. A long raincoat, plus short pants and sandals keeps me dry during the wearmer months. If you go this way, pаy special attention to the hood - ideally it should have two adjusting straps - one for face aperture (the one on the picture has) and one for depth of the hood - it is on the upper and back side of the hood and is essential to adjust your hood so that you see well, and are still protected.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/STLSV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have experience in the winter, maybe this one will be the first. I am going to try waterproof overpants + rubber boots ОР waterproof overpants + waterproof shoes + &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tashev.bg/shop/product_list.php?idcategories=12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gaiters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T07:10:10.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12573" CreationDate="2012-10-02T07:26:10.403" Score="2" ViewCount="2963" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in the shop they asked me &quot;what chain do you need&quot; and I said 7. They said &quot;you could try this 6-speed, it is half the price of a 7, and we put it on 7-speeds all the time&quot;. I said &quot;ok&quot;, only to determine later that my bike is 8-speed. (Excuse: I never use the several highest cogs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know &quot;higher-speed&quot; means just that the chain is thinner, fitting the recommended chainring, plus any other with less cogs (because there is more space between the cogs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as expected, my bike now makes all kinds of clicking noises and skips. However, upon inspection, the chain does not rub the chainrings. It fits tight, but does not touch the other chainrings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will probably replace the chain for a correct one, but before that I would like to know what is the cause of the problem (the skipping).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: some more detail&lt;br&gt;&#xA;We are talking a $300, used regularly for three years. Of it, only the chain has been replaced - twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If needed, I will post a photo tonight. Just ask in the comments!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T05:04:09.417" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T17:35:59.240" Title="Six speed chain on an eight speed bike" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12569" CreationDate="2012-10-02T09:44:03.087" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The skipping will always be because of the chain touching on the other cogs, or trying to slip back down from the pull of the rear derailleur. The chain is too wide and, as you already know, is doing one or the other. It might not be evident from looking at the cogs while riding as the chain is fed from underneath when you pedal, so the clicking from the chain moving may only be visible when the bike is upside down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a reasonable quality shifters/cables/mech then you should be able to just about get away with it with some really fine adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between 6, 7, 8 and 9 speed is actually the spacing between the cogs, and not the width of the cogs themselves. Hence the need for thinner chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I haven't got comment everywhere ability yet, but as suggested below, you should make sure your chain is the correct length. The recognised method for this is to wrap the chain around the largest cog at the front, the largest cog at the back, pull tight and then add two links (or 3 if it ended up with two inner links).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This generally ends up being shorter than what you had originally, but is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5171" LastEditorUserId="5171" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T13:28:42.700" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T13:28:42.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2012-10-02T12:48:48.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wired a piece of rubber tubing around the front and back beams on mine and it helped a lot.  I like the skateboard tape idea and will try it.  These pedals are beautifully finished but the edges of all the lugs are rounded over and then hardcoat anodized resulting in a really slippery pedal; your feet tend to slide sideways and go off the outside edge periodically.  Wearing SPD MTB shoes on the flat side is the worst, especially when the cleat reaches the outside edge.  Running shoes are definitely better. None of this has anything to do with technique; I have old style metal and rubber pedals that you slide off of if you hit a large bump, otherwise you're fine, but these are slippery enough that you can nail your ankle pretty easily.  There are a bunch of pedals like the mentioned Shimano M 324 that I think should be better, mostly at the expense of increaded wieght.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5176" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T12:48:48.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12569" CreationDate="2012-10-02T13:00:56.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dumb question - I'm assuming you lined it up with the old one and got a rough length before you put it on? Yes, width is usually the major issue when doing the 6 -&gt; 7 -&gt; 8 etc. move, but it could be that it's too short (pulling the rear derailleur up too high) or too long (they will often include a couple of extra links in these chains). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually lay the new one out next to the old one and make sure that the length is approximate (the old chain will, of course, have stretched from use to you want to keep that in mind). If I'm feeling particularly anal retentive I'll count the links out (which is, I believe, the recommended method).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T13:00:56.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12569" CreationDate="2012-10-02T13:23:49.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clicking and skipping could be because of the mismatched chain/cog combo as you suspect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it could also be that your rear sprockets are worn. Chains &quot;stretch.&quot; As they do, they also stretch the teeth on the rear sprockets, especially the highest gears (smallest sprockets). The old stretched chain will work just fine since the sprockets have stretched to match. However, if you replace it with a new chain, the teeth and the chain links no longer match up. The result is a chain that skips and makes a bunch of noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;'s site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T13:23:49.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4368" CreationDate="2012-10-02T13:38:40.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems an easy solution pretty easy to take on and off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NahAf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T13:38:40.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12539" CreationDate="2012-10-02T15:07:56.547" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWuUS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cycling umbrella&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Cycling while holding something in your hand is inherently dangerous. You have much less control over the bike and you can only operate one of the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy various contraptions for attaching an umbrella to a bicycle. There's also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://uberhood.co/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Uberhood&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YKck9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Uberhood&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this got a poor review in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/2012/oct/01/bike-blog-ridinghoods-rain?newsfeed=true&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Guardian Bike Blog&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;once open atop the bike it refused to stay stationery, with thoughts of impalement on my mind. In the rain it blocked my rear view, before suddenly hinging forward 90 degrees like a sail, blocking my forward view and knocking my front light off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T15:07:56.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12569" CreationDate="2012-10-02T15:43:43.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, 6, 7 and 8 speed cog groups, all share the same cog spacing and can use the same chain size. If you lay flat on a table a sample of each, you'll see each one is &quot;taller&quot; than the one with less cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they stop growing after that, as a 9 speed cassete has the same overall width as a 8 speed, thus, they had to reduce the cog spacing and need a narrower chain. The same happens when you go up to 10 speed, the overall cassette width is the same as 9 speed, having even a smaller cog spacing and a narrower chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As 6-8 cog groups share the same spacing, it is usually possible to use, say a 7 speed indexed shifter on a 6 speed cog group, since the derailleur has to move the same distance to perform a gearshift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that your problem is due to derailleur fine tuning. To check that visually, examine the bike from its rearview. In each shift position, the guide pulley should line almost perfectly with its correspondant cog. It is easier to check this with the chain removed, but it's not mandatory. Good lighting helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inproper chain length can also be the cause, as other answers state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I speak for my experience with several mountain bikes, including &quot;formal bikes&quot; and crazy experiments. I don't know if this is also valid for road or other types of bike.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T15:43:43.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12554" CreationDate="2012-10-02T15:58:34.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course, do your solo training of some sort, as others have suggested. You have to do that. But to really prepare for racing, you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; ride with others. Racing is not simply going fast; you must have the bike handling skills and group riding skills. If you are not already doing some kind of group ride regularly, start &lt;strong&gt;right now&lt;/strong&gt;. A racing skills clinic would not be a bad idea either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best training for racing is racing. Try to find a fast and strong group ride to do at least once a week. And, in contrast to another answer provided, it should &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be a &quot;no-drop&quot; ride. It should also be a ride that goes off rain or shine. Don't duck out unless conditions are truly dangerous or impossible to ride in. Ideally, it will be a bit harder than your current ability level, and essentially a practice race. It should push you to do a bit more than you are currently comfortable with. Go ahead, get dropped a few times. There's nothing wrong with that. The motivation to stay attached will cause considerable improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're to the point of not getting dropped, start building rapport with the others in the group, as these are most likely the people you'll be racing against. Try not to make too many enemies...you never know when you're going to need a friendly wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T15:58:34.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7399" CreationDate="2012-10-02T16:16:03.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that using damp aluminum foil is the ticket. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.robertscycle.com/chrome-clean.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Check this out&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;common way to clean a rusted chrome surface such as a fender is to use a fine steel wool. However, when you use this method you have to use a lot of elbow grease and you still end up with a slightly dull surface with some amount of scratching not to mention the messy 'dust' left over from the steel wool. That's because you are physically scraping off the rust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use the aluminum foil method you are dissolving the rust chemically so you don't need to rub nearly as hard and since the aluminum foil is softer than the chrome, you are left with few if any scratches. This method also allows you to get the rust out of some minor pitting without having to dig into the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T16:16:03.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12580" CreationDate="2012-10-02T17:36:44.703" Score="2" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Ive been getting a cramp in my right quad. I assume its a cramp, but ive never had one before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bike 10 miles per day 5 days per week. I always ride the same way (to and from work). On one particular stretch (comm ave in boston) i usually try go about 25mph the whole way. This is where i get the cramp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It started happening last week and just assumed it was because of the colder weather. Is there anything i can to prevent it from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T18:53:44.653" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T19:56:04.627" Title="Why do i have a cramp?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12579" CreationDate="2012-10-02T18:35:17.737" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of reasons you could be cramping - if that is, in fact, what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are not properly warmed up before exerting yourself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are exceeding your limit of fitness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are not properly hydrated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have not eaten enough food to fuel your ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without additional information it's really hard to diagnose something like this, but those are some common causes of cramping during a ride or any athletic activity. You may also look at your technique to see if you are favoring one side over another or have a setup that is not ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T18:35:17.737" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12503" CreationDate="2012-10-02T21:20:49.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a separate answer only because I can't vote or comment on other's answers yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking directly to the original question... yes - it is possible.  I have a winter set of wheels with a rotor by a different maker and it is a center lock mount vs. a six-bolt mount of my regular wheels.  No problem at all and it is one of the main things I like about disk brakes.  With rim brakes I would have to adjust the brakes each time I did the switch-a-roo unless both sets of wheels had exactly the same width.  Since the winter wheels have studded tires I make the switch on clear/dry days in the winter as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5172" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T21:20:49.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11092" CreationDate="2012-10-02T21:57:19.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an older question but since no answer is marked &quot;accepted&quot; I'll add another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are asking if you can move your shifters and brake levers to a road bar with &lt;em&gt;no other change&lt;/em&gt; the answer is no unless someone is making a drop bars with an MTB bar diameter (I don't know of any).  Your question doesn't mention levers but I assume you want to move those too :-)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are adapters, bar end and stem mount shifters and there are alternative brake levers but they all amount to an expense that will start to approach the solution you want to avoid. A simpler option might be to just choose an MTB with a flat bar and add Origin-8 drops.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/osQzk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5172" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T21:57:19.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10396" CreationDate="2012-10-02T22:34:57.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pitlock is head and shoulders more secure than Pinhead, which can be defeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, for my &quot;errand bike&quot; I use the cheaper Pinhead locks in combination with ugliness &lt;em&gt;plus&lt;/em&gt; JB Weld in nearly every allen head on the whole bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably overkill. For this bike I don't plan to upgrade anything so it's not a problem -- and the occasional required part replacement can be handled with a hammer and a punch to break away the JB weld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5172" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T22:34:57.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12585" CreationDate="2012-10-02T22:53:24.000" Score="7" ViewCount="17000" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that frames are generally brazed, not welded &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; given that MIG welding will work on simple bike hacks what are the downsides of MIG welding these hacks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I would like to make a frame mounted front rack (rather than handlebar and/or fork mounted rack).  I know for sure the welds will be uglier than a professionally brazed job, but are there other issues to be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5172" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T08:34:58.693" Title="MIG Welds vs Brazing for simple bike hacks" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12584" CreationDate="2012-10-02T23:03:06.420" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason that brazing is traditionally used on steel bikes is so that the temper of the chromoly tubes won't be wrecked.  (The high temperatures associated with conventional welding would seriously damage the tubing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Cannondale, in their push to develop good aluminum bikes, invented the technique of rapid welding (since aluminum can't be brazed, and traditional welding worked poorly).  This technique was transferred to the manufacturer of steel bikes, which is why most modern steel bikes are welded (without lugs) rather than lugged and brazed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, can you do your MIG welding rapidly enough to not destroy the temper of the tubing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T02:22:11.497" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T02:22:11.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12584" CreationDate="2012-10-03T12:37:21.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, nowadays most bikes (not the extra cheap neither the extra fancy) are TIG welded. If I'm not mistaken, MIG is used for lower end aluminum frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made a lot of hacks and fixes to steel frames (including building a recumbent frame from an old, already cracked, MTB frame), and always used TIG weld, with excelent results, either durability and aesthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference between TIG and MIG is that, with MIG, the electrode and the deposit material are the same (consumable electrode), while with TIG you have a non-consumable tungsten electrode and a consumable, handheld wire rod. Not only the tungsten electrode has a sharper and more precise point, but also it is more probable to the shop to have wire rods from different (and more suitable to your bike) steels, than it is for them to have multiple large rolls of different MIG electrodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I recommend you to look for TIG welding instead of MIG welding, at least for steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T12:37:21.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12579" CreationDate="2012-10-03T16:31:26.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be due to your saddle not being high enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with my left quad and found that making the saddle higher on my bike resolved the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5189" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T16:31:26.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12579" CreationDate="2012-10-03T23:18:13.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you are hydrated before you begin any ride in any weather and carry additional water, Gatorade or other favorite hydration drink. A snack like an energy bar may also help. Make sure you seat is adjusted properly! Your saddle height should be high enough that your knees are directly over the ball of your foot at the bottom of the peddal stroke. If your leg is nearly straight, then you're likely &quot;reaching&quot; on the pedal stroke and your hips will be &quot;rocking&quot; in the saddle. This will cause stress on your quad muscles. If you don't use either &quot;peddal cages&quot; or clip peddals so you can lift up with one leg as the other leg is pushing down on the opposite pedal, this can cause fatigue in your legs. You may have to experiment for awhile to see what works or doesn't work, so keep a record of possible &quot;cures.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T23:18:13.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5846" CreationDate="2012-10-04T01:51:45.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ugh.  This has been covered in another forum, and I spent 72 days on a tour of Europe with that advice.  I like SPDs...for commuting and day riding.  I switched to cages to accommodate normal day-hiking boots.  It saved me a tonne of grief.  My older SPDs were too narrow and I couldn't go a single day without horrible pain.  I don't think I'd ride with SPDs on a long tour like that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5192" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T01:51:45.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12539" CreationDate="2012-10-04T09:01:47.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only is it not safe, it isn't even useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the biggest problems when cycling are visibility, stability, braking and hearing danger approaching. An umbrella of any kind will hinder at least one and probably all of these! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to top that, it will not stop you getting wet. On a bike on a wet day water comes from everywhere: your own tires, spray from cars,puddles, rain ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trade off just isn't worth it- bicycles are an inherently dangerous way to travel as there is nothing to protect you. You should be doing everything you can to reduce your risk, not add to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T09:01:47.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12554" CreationDate="2012-10-04T11:13:28.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best resource I can provide is a blog called cycling tips (cyclingtips.com.au) They have some great articles on training and how to race in general. Geographies are very Melbourne, Australia focussed though as that is where they're based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T11:13:28.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11092" CreationDate="2012-10-04T12:47:20.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-handlebars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;handlebar dimension page&lt;/a&gt;, older steel drop bars have the same clamp and grip size measurements as most newer upright bars.  You should be able to find an old pair of steel drops that will be able to fit your shifters.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T12:47:20.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12556" CreationDate="2012-10-04T12:57:35.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tip of the day for how to adjust brakes so they dont rub when tightened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use shims on either side of the disk!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how to do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a beer can and cut a strip about an inch wide and 6 inches long (careful when using this, it's sharp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the wheel off the bike, loosen up the hex cap bolts on top of &lt;strong&gt;the calliper&lt;/strong&gt;, not the wheel, adaptor, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the shim over disk, in the position where the calliper will float over it, put the wheel back in so the shim is now jammed up into the loosened calliper and do up your quick release nice and tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the brake on a little (to centre the calliper) and tighten up the calliper bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the shim (you may have to remove the wheel) and you should have a really properly aligned brake (either cable or hydraulic).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your beer can strip is really clean (use soapy water and properly rinse) so you don't contaminate the pads or disk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got Avid Juicy brakes and I had huge problems with getting them properly aligned so they didn't make little squealing sounds whenever I was riding (they never really rubbed) and this made it so much more pleasant!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5171" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T12:57:35.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12541" CreationDate="2012-10-04T16:16:07.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends. You've thrown out a few options. I'm a track cyclist, so I prefer the track bike on the rollers. However, that's mostly to work on form and comfort at high RPM's in my race position. That's the main benefit of rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For strength training and resistance, I used to use a mag or fluid trainer. I would do so with a road bike. The main benefit there is the ability to change gears/resistance by shifting. That would be more appropriate if you're looking to ride along with a video...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, I take a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/ewwhite/8050847367/in/photostream&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;completely different ($$$) approach&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T16:16:07.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12536" CreationDate="2012-10-04T17:14:51.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of links that explain derailleur adjustment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2012-10-05T00:17:38.467" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T00:17:38.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10989" CreationDate="2012-10-04T17:25:45.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some narrower chains for 10 or 11 speed systems have pins that are designed for a single use only, and have a part designed to be broken off after insertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-pack-of-5-10-speed-chain-pins/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-pack-of-5-10-speed-chain-pins/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a chain like that, you can't just push an old pin back in, but mostly you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T17:25:45.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12569" CreationDate="2012-10-04T17:35:59.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/desktopdefault.aspx?tabid=3946&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ctc.org.uk/desktopdefault.aspx?tabid=3946&lt;/a&gt; has a table of common sprocket spacings (and no, 6, 7, and 8 aren't all the same).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html&lt;/a&gt; has more extensive details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As other people have said, the sprockets having worn to the old chain is also a likely problem, but the chain being slightly too wide won't help shifting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T17:35:59.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10186" CreationDate="2012-10-04T17:48:47.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find anything that states exactly what size the taper goes down to either, so you would need a known JIS/ISO to compare with. Other sources conform they are the same angle though. Minimum disassembly will be taking off one crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.urbanvelo.org/issue15/urbanvelo15_p86-87.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.urbanvelo.org/issue15/urbanvelo15_p86-87.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velodromeshop.net/index.php?p=catalog&amp;amp;parent=217&amp;amp;pg=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.velodromeshop.net/index.php?p=catalog&amp;amp;parent=217&amp;amp;pg=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T17:48:47.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12579" CreationDate="2012-10-04T19:56:04.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard all of the reasons for getting cramps such as not enough electrolytes, not enough fluids, heat along with all of the fixes but the one that actually is the biggest cause and the hardest to swallow is not enough saddle time. Back when I was riding a lot, I would get cramps on every long ride that I went with the fast group or when I attacked a hill at the end of a 60 mile ride. More miles and harder miles fixed that problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4498" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T19:56:04.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12607" CreationDate="2012-10-04T20:42:50.037" Score="1" ViewCount="924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two sets of wheels, both laced to surly singlespeed hubs (the older &quot;new&quot; hubs, not the &quot;ultra new&quot; hubs which seem to make this process much easier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway the wheelset I like better has a quick release rear, and the other has a nutted axle.  After riding the QR for a year, I've found I don't really like it.  I wanted to go QR for easier on-trail flat changing, but since switching to the new (tubeless) wheels I haven't had a single flat.  So I'm wishing I had the nutted axle on my newer wheels, as it felt a lot stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm wondering is if there's a way I can disassemble the hubs and get the nutted axle onto my new wheels.  I haven't taken apart a hub before but as I understand it these hubs use cartridge bearings, which I suspect makes the process a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T12:31:17.027" Title="Singlespeed Hub - Rear Axle Swap" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11112" CreationDate="2012-10-05T11:38:37.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alloy would save a tiny amount of weight. I wouldn't expect it to make any difference to wheel stiffness, so long as you lubricate the threads when building it (alloy nipples are stiffer to turn otherwise, so it's harder to get the tension right). Brass is stronger, but you shouldn't have to rely on that to get a stiff wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But long term, alloy is more likely to seize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#nipples&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#nipples&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/alloy-spoke-nipples-or-brass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/alloy-spoke-nipples-or-brass&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T11:38:37.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11293" CreationDate="2012-10-05T11:51:36.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cap is like the star-fangled nut on a threadless headset - it's only there to hold the crank in place when you do up the pinch bolts.&#xA;If the pinch bolts aren't holding the crank in place on their own, something else is wrong, and you really need to fix that. If the crank splines are worn because the shop fitted it wrong in the first place, they should replace the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T11:51:36.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12603" CreationDate="2012-10-05T12:04:38.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/hubs_v1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/parts/hubs_v1&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;This is a common size so it’s easy to find replacements should the need arise or to swap axles if, for instance, you have a QR axle and want to go solid&quot;, so it should be easy enough.&#xA;Based on the photos, you might want some cone wrenches even though with cartridge bearings there aren't actually cones as such. As the Surly page says, you still need to adjust the load on the bearings when you do it up.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/conewrenches.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/conewrenches.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T12:04:38.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12603" CreationDate="2012-10-05T12:31:17.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A standard, non-exotic QR axle can be easily replaced with solid.  In fact, many bike shops would have the replacement axle in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does require fairly complete disassembly of the hub, though, and a touch of skill in properly &quot;pre-loading&quot; the bearings on reassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T12:31:17.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-05T17:05:29.907" Score="2" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old MTB frame that has the drive side rear dropout partially filled in as if it was part of the original forging of the dropout.  And, I have seen this on a few other frames -- even different manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly it was done to limit how far back the axle can go in the dropout but the question(s) is(are):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;why does the frame maker want to control this detail&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;why is it only on the drive side&lt;/em&gt;?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=== edit === &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not the bike in question but it is an example of what I mean. My apologies to the site where I found this -- it was not copyrighted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YEXb4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5172" LastEditorUserId="5172" LastEditDate="2012-10-05T21:43:27.457" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T21:53:37.157" Title="Purpose of partially filled in rear drop out" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2012-10-05T18:32:40.247" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You certainly can use a cyclocross bike for almost everything and cyclocross bikes also make a fantastic winter trainer or touring bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingfitness.hubpages.com/hub/The-Difference-Between-Cyclocross-And-Road-Bikes&quot;&gt;Key Differences between a cyclcoross and road bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer seat stays and chain stays lead to an increased wheelbase when compared to a road bike which can have a nagetive effect on cornering at speed.Cyclocross framesets are designed to be used with slower speeds in mind and subsequently have tighter steerer tubes (Generally around 74 degrees versus 73 degrees on a road bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes generally feature smaller chainring combinations which will have a limit to speed mainly on ultra-fast downhill sections at speeds in excess of 40+ mph experienced on long, steep downhill's or alpine style descents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclcross tires often squirm on tarmac however a simple change of tires is straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cantilever brakes offer less precision for braking. Many riders find them to be acceptable however they are inferior in performance to road caliper brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience of using an aluminium cyclocross bike (Planet X Uncle John Frameset) fitted with 25 mm as a winter trainer. Comfort over longer rides is no issue. I ride a 44/36 chainset with 12-28 cassette and have an exceptionally good range of gears. I run out of gears around 35 mph. I've riden lots of 100 mile winter training rides in the mountains with no issues &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5200" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T18:32:40.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-05T19:04:49.760" Score="2" ViewCount="686" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in constant debate with my colleague regarding the use of aero tt/triathlon wheels (82/101) for normal/general road use (fear of buckling etc?). I was wondering what peoples thoughts were on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any thoughts to help me settle this would be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5201" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-10-06T15:33:00.523" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T16:39:21.283" Title="Time Trial/ Tri Aero Wheels Query" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12611" CreationDate="2012-10-05T21:53:37.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you more often see is that the derailer hanger is a separate piece that bolts into what is the filled-in space in your picture.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is for frames that are designed for the axle to fit only that far back.  Generally these are less than top quality frames where having both dropouts match exactly would make it obvious that the frame wasn't quite true (since the wheel would not center with the axle all the way back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with one side filled in you are forced to tighten that side, then slide the other side forward or back until the wheel is centered.  They make it look like a &quot;feature&quot; that facilitates alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T21:53:37.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2703" CreationDate="2012-10-05T22:17:26.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For lubricating bicycle chains, and other parts, we need a light machine oil, perhaps thinned a little bit by a solvent to help it get into the chain. Furthermore, an anti-rust additive would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an oil  which meets these requirements and is inexpensive (paid about $5.50 CAD before taxes for a 500 ml bottle at Vancouver Auto Parts). On the bike chain, it doesn't pick up a lot of dirt and isn't difficult to remove with detergents.  It happens to be an &lt;strong&gt;air tool oil&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not every light machine oil will necessarily have such anti-rust additive. Why it is important in an air tool oil is that these tools are exposed to water which condenses in the air compressor and makes its way into the supply lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the specific product I'm using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kleenflo.com/en/msds/4168.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kleenflo.com/en/msds/4168.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ingredients are published in its MSDS (material safety data sheet) accessible from the above product page. The exact formula isn't given away, but the MSDS gives us a good enough idea about what is in there. It's mostly hydrotreated oil (hydrotreating not only removes sulfur, but improves the quality of oils: the Wikipedia page does not tell all), a bit of napthtenic oil (thinner-bodied class of oils with some useful properties), a hydrocarbon distillate to help the product act as a penetrant, and a zinc-based anti-wear, anti-rust additive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T22:17:26.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9015" CreationDate="2012-10-06T01:28:54.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Threads are a locking mechanism. The issue is simply the threads are easily damaged and do not properly tighten. They can distort from over tightening, crack ect. To say anti seize does not lubricate is nonsense, that's exactly what it does. It allows the threads slip, tightening properly. The pops you hear removing the nipples are the threads gripping each other and your torque is wasted twisting the spoke instead of loosening the threads. This happens when tightening them as well to a lesser degree as they have not had time to corrode together. The nipple is hard to turn but part of the force is wasted on friction and not all the torque is spent on tightening the spoke. To over come you need to waste a lot of energy and again, risk damaging the threads. Not every lubricant is gooey or slippery in your fingers. Ever heard of brass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5203" LastActivityDate="2012-10-06T01:28:54.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12613" CreationDate="2012-10-06T06:18:49.713" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the exception of a very few wheels that have a low maximum rider weight, the only real reasons not to use your TT wheels all the time are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost - do you want the daily road grime all over your $2,500 carbon wheels?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface area - cross winds when your rolling &gt;80mm dishes can become interesting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braking surface - related to (1)...you will eventually wear down the braking surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flats - these days a lot of TT wheels are clinchers, but if yours are tubular, carrying a spare tire all the time may not be ideal. For more than a race, you'll need to really protect the glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might add a (5) that some people will think you are a poser with more money than talent...but I personally think rolling around in some deep carbon is cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The few wheels that have the low max weight could fall apart as they get beaten on the bumps and dips of daily riding, the vast majority are probably just about as strong as (or possibly stronger than) the wheels you are rolling right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-10-06T06:18:49.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-06T10:47:21.153" Score="0" ViewCount="1109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of Campagolo Athena 11 levels and the right one is slipping when changing down.  What is the problem and which part do I need to replace, please&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T16:16:04.587" Title="Right campagolo gears slipping" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2012-10-06T18:29:14.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A frame with horizontal dropouts is preferable.  If you do end up with a frame that has Vertical Dropouts you might need to add a Chain Tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone not sure what dropouts are see this pic:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtobuildafixie.com/lesson-1-dropouts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.howtobuildafixie.com/lesson-1-dropouts/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5205" LastActivityDate="2012-10-06T18:29:14.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1275" CreationDate="2012-10-07T00:28:41.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you asked for a single part answers but since the parts work together and one choice influences another, I don't really see how that can be accomplished in a useful manner. So I'm going to outline it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll start with the items that you need for any build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame and fork. Preferably one with horizontal dropouts - more on that later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset to attach the frame and fork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stem - note: the fork, stem, and the headset work together. They can be threaded or threadless. They must match.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seatpost. The seatpost must fit snugly in the seat tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seatpost clamp (Maybe. This is built into some frames.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front wheel. No specific requirements other than it fit into your fork without the tire rubbing. If you're using a front brake (and you should), you'll want the size for which the fork was intended. There are ways to make the brakes work on a wrong-sized wheel, but it's more hassle than it's worth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom bracket. The crankset and bottom bracket must be the compatible with one another. The bottom bracket also be the same size and have the same thread type as the bottom bracket shell on your frame. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedals. As others have mentioned, you want your feet attached to the pedals. Whether you use toe clips or clipless is totally up to your personal preference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Wheel. This is where we start to get fixie specific. The rear wheel must have a hub that is designed to accommodate a fixed gear cog and a lock ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixed gear cog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to make sure of two things: your chain line must be ramrod straight and you must have some way of making sure that there's tension on the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's talk about tensioning the chain first. There are three basic ways to tension a chain on a fixie. You can use an eccentric hub, an eccentric bottom bracket, or horizontal dropouts. Horizontal dropouts are by far the cheapest, easiest and most common. An eccentric bottom bracket requires a frame that is designed for one and thus, is less common and more expensive. An &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;ion=1#q=eccentric%20hub&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;prmd=imvns&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=t8twUKmNBMTbyAHE84HwBQ&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CAsQ_AUoBQ&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.&amp;amp;fp=ffce5b87e85eac78&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;biw=1641&amp;amp;bih=922&quot;&gt;eccentric hub&lt;/a&gt; works just fine if you have to use a frame with vertical dropouts, but it's easy enough (and significantly cheaper) to find an older frame with horizontal semi-horizontal dropouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for making sure that chainline is stright. The only way I know of to do it is trial and error. Build the bike up, and then sight along the chainline. You'll be able to see whether or not it's straight much the same way you can sight along a pool cue and see a curve in it. If it's not, you can sometimes move the front chain ring from the inside to the outside of the spider. Spacers on the rear hub may get you somewhere too, but you can't go too far with those. If none of that works, you'll have to try a bottom bracket with a different spindle length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optionally: a front brake is highly recommended. In some places, at least one brake is required by law. If you have rear facing dropouts, a bmx style chain tensioner is really nice to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2012-10-08T14:34:26.307" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T14:34:26.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7301" CreationDate="2012-10-07T02:15:57.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do squats with another person on your back. If you do proper squats (&lt;strong&gt;almost&lt;/strong&gt; all the way down) they are a lot harder, and a 110 pound girlfriend can be as effective as if you were using a barbell more than twice that weight for half-squats (knees going only to about 90 degrees). Never go &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; the way down, and never bounce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2012-10-07T02:15:57.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7301" CreationDate="2012-10-07T03:52:32.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to be sure, have you already been doing muscle tension workouts? Doing some hill climbing at 45 RPM for a whole workout is a good way to increase your leg strength. Ease into these workouts; they can be hard on your knees if you go too hard and/or your bike fit isn't good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2012-10-07T03:52:32.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5276" CreationDate="2012-10-07T22:42:05.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same problem is the past with Oury grips. My solution was to use a bit of rubber cement. You only need to apply a little to the bar and inside of the grip. While the cement is still wet, it will slide on smoothly, then dry and secure nicely. Be sure to wipe off any excess that accumulates as you slide the grip on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had no trouble getting rubber-cemented grips off with a little WD40 or Goo-Gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastEditorUserId="5211" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T19:37:59.970" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T19:37:59.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-08T07:18:13.390" Score="0" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about commuting by bicycle for the first time. What are some resources (e.g. books, websites) I should take a look at for tips and best practices to follow.&#xA;I'm looking for further reading that contains the type of advice given in this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1073/what-do-you-wish-someone-had-told-you-before-your-first-commute&quot;&gt;What do you wish someone had told you before your first commute?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5212" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T14:38:08.307" Title="Reference Request: Best practices for urban commuting" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-10-08T15:50:33.783" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8456" CreationDate="2012-10-08T09:32:03.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type of band-brake you have is manufactured in China. Hundreds of millions are manufactured and used effectively worldwide on numerous bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your model of band-brake has 3 common causes for noise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)The spacing of brake-drum and belt-housing is too close.  This can be caused by the wrong thickness of spacing washer being installed on the axle causing the outer edge of the drum rubbing on the inside of the band-housing.  This situation can be easily detected by wear marks on the inside of the band-housing when disassembled.&#xA;2)The chain stay mounting or brake cable mounting is out of alignment and causing the the same effect between the drum and and band-housing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3)The band itself is off centre when in the released position.  This sounds like your problem, as you indicate that when you loosen the brake adjustment, the noise stops.  The two screws on the outer edge of the band-housing adjusts this.  You need to loosen the lock nuts on each adjusting-screw and adjust each screw inward or outward to provide a uniform gap between band and drum.  Happy biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5214" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T09:32:03.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12628" CreationDate="2012-10-08T11:09:21.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oldie but goodie: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0262560704&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Effective Cycling&lt;/a&gt; by John Forester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T11:09:21.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9225" CreationDate="2012-10-08T14:27:50.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did my first 71 mile ride and like you, I was concerned about what to do or not do before the ride.  After reading so many tips from cyclists that had done this rides forever....I learned that nutrition, hydration and a good night sleep before the ride is crucial. Opt to eat HEALTHY carbs a week prior to your ride.  Prepare your mind for it and enjoy it. During my ride I drinked plenty of water (even if you don't feel you need it), eat every hour or so, and I was shocked how much energy I had left after my ride. I am getting ready to do a 180 (two day) bike ride a week after and SO looking forward to it.&#xA;I hope this tip would help and good luck on your ride! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5218" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T14:27:50.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12628" CreationDate="2012-10-08T14:38:08.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one is the best online reference I know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John Allen's Bicycling Street Smarts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikexprt.com/streetsmarts/usa/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikexprt.com/streetsmarts/usa/index.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(there is a left-lane version for the UK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T14:38:08.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9225" CreationDate="2012-10-08T14:47:12.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Serioulsy speaking this &lt;strong&gt;Depends on how often you ride, and when you do how long and how far you ride?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride often and ride somewhere between 20-25 Miles every time, I don't think you have to worry at all. Just make sure, on the last two days you are well rested and have maintained good protein diet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride occasionally, then its better to go on some regular practice ride and gain some &lt;strong&gt;stamina&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;endurance&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if this is a competitive ride, then going on a 35-40 miles ride about 3 4 days to familiarise yourself with the road and to plan your ride is a good option too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T14:47:12.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7257" CreationDate="2012-10-08T15:23:33.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that the fit of a Bern helmet (specifically the Watts) in my case varies depending on the liner.  I purchased mine with a summer liner and bought an additional winter liner for cold weather riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't wear a big hat when using the winter liner and the ear flaps let too much air pass to my ears and left me cold. It was hard to add another hat or balaclava underneath to keep my head warm (I have a shaved head and need extra coverage, and also enjoy having a hat on when I take off the helmet).  FWIW, the fit issues could just be due to me not having a mop of hair to help fill out the helmet. I almost always ride with a hat under the helmet to help it stay snug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not going out in &amp;lt; 20 degrees Fahrenheit conditions, then the regular winter liner may be fine (or If you buy it sized for the winter liner initially, which then could have fit issues if you swap in a summer liner for warm weather riding). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I preferred to use the Bern Watts with the summer liner while wearing a smartwool balaclava underneath and optionally ski goggles (with the goggle clip) on really harsh days. The wool was breathable enough and warm and provided total head and neck coverage in the winter. I used the same setup for skiing as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T15:23:33.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12613" CreationDate="2012-10-08T16:39:21.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that what you're actually asking about are the pros and cons of various rim depths, so will answer based on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would highlight Pt 2 of Ken's answer - dealing with crosswinds. The amount of resistance deep-rimmed wheels can offer could quite literally blow you across (off?) the road if you're not careful. Under those circumstances the shallower the rims, the more control you'll have over the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, when there is no wind to speak of, my own experience (I just bought some 6cm rims not so long ago) is that I feel I'm cutting through the air. (Actually its not just a feeling, my speed increase bears this out.) Beautiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to say though that if I was looking for an all-purpose set of rims for &quot;general use&quot;, I'd go for shallower rims - the all-purpose here being key. On the other hand if I were prepared to chop and change the wheels before every ride (depending on wind conditions), then under the right conditions a nice deep rim will feel amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing worth mentioning - I've found the front rim depth to be more critical than the rear - this is probably obvious when you think about it. I haven't done it yet but I could imagine experimenting with my 6cm rim on the rear, but my 2cm rim on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T16:39:21.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7257" CreationDate="2012-10-08T18:00:57.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My main issue with the bern's and other snow centric helmets are they are too warm. Most of the helmets are designed for in bounds skiers/riders who exert a relatively small amount of energy on the way down and non on the way up so their body temperatures are on the low side. The bern in particular has always felt way to hot for me even the vented models. For a snow oriented helmet that is compatible with goggles there are a number of other brands which offer adjustable venting and nearly any helmet can be augmented with skull caps to increase the warmth when needed. I bike commute everyday in up to a foot of snow in cold Montana winters and have had great success with my Smith Variant helmet. It provides a good vapor barrier with the vents closed and a moderate amount of insulation with good removable ear coverage. With the vents open there is quite a bit of circulation but you still get good ear coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T18:00:57.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-08T18:15:45.617" Score="8" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a used SAG Life Air Force 1 backpack from a friend, after deciding that a messenger bag was just too heavy when it was full for my one shoulder to bear. I primarily use the bag for urban commuting, hauling everything from my work stuff and u-lock to groceries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After using the SAG backpack for a year, I'm again on the search for a new bag. This one is good overall, and the capacity when it's extended and full is insane (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;biw=1808&amp;amp;bih=1407&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;prmd=imvns&amp;amp;tbnid=mSgqTi2-wPhfIM%3a&amp;amp;imgrefurl=http://www.chariandconyc.net/blog/tag/sag/&amp;amp;docid=dnRvojGKh3CuLM&amp;amp;imgurl=http://www.chariandconyc.net/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/DSC_03314.jpg&amp;amp;w=600&amp;amp;h=399&amp;amp;ei=pQhzUMvKNKfV0gGOtoCQBg&amp;amp;zoom=1&amp;amp;iact=hc&amp;amp;vpx=763&amp;amp;vpy=340&amp;amp;dur=3775&amp;amp;hovh=183&amp;amp;hovw=275&amp;amp;tx=161&amp;amp;ty=104&amp;amp;sig=104842155866317053666&amp;amp;page=1&amp;amp;tbnh=164&amp;amp;tbnw=214&amp;amp;start=0&amp;amp;ndsp=59&amp;amp;ved=1t:429,r:11,s:0,i:107&quot;&gt;this picture&lt;/a&gt; does it justice), but generally it doesn't fit me well. It's way too long in the torso, even when it isn't full, which I can tell by where the hip belt hits my hips-- more around my bum than waist. I suspect its too-big fit is because the bag is primarily designed for dudes, and I am a lady with a smaller frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the SAG bag does have another, crucial, game-changing feature: a side zipper that allows me to get into the main compartment of the bag. This way, I can just slide it one-shouldered around to my front and get into the bag from the side, messenger-bag style,  without taking it off and unrolling the top. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&amp;amp;biw=1808&amp;amp;bih=1407&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbnid=qEQia1dNJTD5UM%3a&amp;amp;imgrefurl=http://superbbicycle.com/2010/08/12/sag-life-in-stock/&amp;amp;docid=PoLBzMcDHVQkGM&amp;amp;imgurl=http://superbbicycle.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/laptop-sag1.jpg&amp;amp;w=600&amp;amp;h=900&amp;amp;ei=YQpzUO3yO-WA0AHwiYC4Cg&amp;amp;zoom=1&amp;amp;iact=hc&amp;amp;vpx=346&amp;amp;vpy=504&amp;amp;dur=932&amp;amp;hovh=275&amp;amp;hovw=183&amp;amp;tx=85&amp;amp;ty=183&amp;amp;sig=104842155866317053666&amp;amp;page=2&amp;amp;tbnh=160&amp;amp;tbnw=91&amp;amp;start=59&amp;amp;ndsp=65&amp;amp;ved=1t:429,r:26,s:59,i:341&quot;&gt;This photo&lt;/a&gt; sort of shows what I mean with a laptop, but I can get into the whole main compartment of the bag this way.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other brands of stock (i.e. non-custom-made) bike bags that have this feature that make expandable backpacks? Is it something that anyone has seen on a bag that isn't a SAG Life bag? The other problem is that because this brand is Japanese, it's kind of hard to find in the U.S., so even another SAG bag with smaller dimensions might be hard to find so I can try it on before purchasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at Timbuk2, and as far as I can tell from the photos and product descriptions, the bags that they say have a &quot;swing-around&quot; feature, there's only access to the laptop sleeve, except with the Phoenix, which seems to have the same dimensions as the Airforce 1 bag and it doesn't come in other sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also looked at Chrome and Mission Workshop and neither company seems to have a bag with this feature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I going to have to go custom to get this feature on a bag that will fit me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5174" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T14:22:52.750" Title="Rec for bike backpack with side zipper into main compartment" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12641" CreationDate="2012-10-08T20:32:58.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the nicer courier bag/backpack companies don't do a zipper down the length of the bag because that creates a weak point for not only loss of contents, but water entry. Some will do laptop pouches, but if you're looking for a heavy duty courier bag it's slim pickings for external zippers into main compartments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest I came to finding something like what you're after is from either &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crumpler.com/catalogue/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crumpler&lt;/a&gt; that have some laptop sleeves and/or zippers to main compartments or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freightbags.com/products/backpack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Freight Baggage&lt;/a&gt; that have a smaller secondary compartment that is easily accessible. I looked at RELoad, Freight, Seagull, Bailey Works, Trash Bags, Banjo Brothers and some other smaller companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T20:32:58.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12644" CreationDate="2012-10-08T23:01:46.093" Score="-2" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get myself back into road cycling. When I first bought my bike I was serious and was riding everyday 20-30 miles. I got burned out because I wasn't eating right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This time around I want to make sure that my eating habits are in the right place so my energy levels stay high and can support me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5219" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-10-09T18:20:00.993" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T18:20:00.993" Title="What are some good eating habits?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2012-10-09T18:22:57.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12643" CreationDate="2012-10-08T23:39:42.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite the fact that the whole live-strong movement has been losing popularity.  I am a big fan of their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/myplate/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;My Plate&lt;/a&gt; online application for tracking what I eat, and setting goals for what I should be eating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are a whole bunch of differing opinions about diet out there.  I try to stick to the old common sense approach.  A gallon of ice cream bad.  Eating a bowl of chicken and rice good.  Eating until I hurt bad, eating until I'm satisfied good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also believe however that when you are burning large amounts of calories - those calories need to be replaced by healthy things.  That's another thing I like about My Plate.  It helps me offset activity with diet and gives good guides for what my diet is made of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5169" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T23:39:42.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12641" CreationDate="2012-10-09T09:20:46.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a backpack that has a full side-zipper as well as a top flap:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Packs/WeekendAlpinePacks/PRD~4013-626/mec-brio-60-backpack.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MEC Brio&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7XAa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastEditorUserId="4653" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T14:22:52.750" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T14:22:52.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-09T09:40:54.167" Score="23" ViewCount="3563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've stumbled across this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1202837765/z-torque-bicycle-cranks-ride-faster-longer-easier&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;kickstarter project&lt;/a&gt;, which promotes an original shape for cranks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zXcIM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;z-shaped cranks&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They claim a wider arc of useful push during rotation. While their main point is rendered moot by clipping systems, I remain unsure about their claim in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can these really have a positive impact on power/torque? Is there any risk due to increased stress on some body parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2296" LastEditorUserId="2296" LastEditDate="2012-10-09T14:16:13.763" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T18:22:31.273" Title="Are Z-shaped cranks a good idea?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12650" CreationDate="2012-10-09T11:39:36.360" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the aluminum is sufficiently stiff it makes zero difference -- the crank could be any shape (a disk, an S shape, etc), but the relationship between the two contact points would still remain the same, and that's all that counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only effect the crank could have is adding a bit of spring to the crank, which might be good or bad for effective cranking.  But aluminum makes lousy springs, and if it flexes much it will soon fatigue and fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risk to your body parts is getting cut by sharp edges when the crank fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T11:39:36.360" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12650" CreationDate="2012-10-09T11:56:49.680" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just a rehashing of a very old and horrible idea. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://pardo.net/bike/pic/mobi/d.pmp-cranks/index.html&quot;&gt;PMP Cranks et al&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited for additional information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RE: PMP cranks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A moment's thought shows a straight crank and an L crank always have the same relation between pedals, chain, and bottom bracket. Thus, there is no advantage to L cranks. And an L crank always has more material than a straight crank, so is always at a disadvantage for weight, strength, stiffness, and/or cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The P.M.P. cranks have a spider bolted to the right crank, with the square taper formed from both pieces. The square taper is loaded heavily, and making it in pieces, especially with a few light bolts to hold them together, is likely to increase loads greatly and thus lead to premature failures. So it may be unwise to ride these, even for art or humor value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RE: Z Torque cranks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Z Torque crank manages to take a bad idea and make it worse: the crank spider is not simply bolted to the right arm. Instead, it is about 1/3 of the square taper, while the arm is the other 2/3. This puts a joint in the middle of a highly-stressed joint — so highly stressed that hardened steel spindles sometimes break here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Z-Torque also has much less ground clearance than a straight crank, much less even than a P.M.P. crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there is this from &lt;a href=&quot;http://z-torque.com/Video.aspx&quot;&gt;their own video&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Participants achieved similar maximal oxygen consumption, peak power outputs and gross efficiencies with the Z-Torque and normal crank configurations (Table 1). In addition, ratings of perceived exertion (RPE) at 150 and 200 W, heart rate (HR) at peak power output, 150, and 200 W, and cadence at 150 and 200 W were not significantly different. However, participants perceived their effort to be significantly lower at peak power output with the Z-Torque crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even their own study and material showed no significant difference between the Z crank and a normal crank. The &quot;perceived&quot; notion is flawed because it is not a blind/double blind test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastEditorUserId="3931" LastEditDate="2012-10-09T15:34:53.737" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T15:34:53.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12650" CreationDate="2012-10-09T12:57:36.433" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1202837765/z-torque-bicycle-cranks-ride-faster-longer-easier/comments&quot;&gt;comments&lt;/a&gt; on the Kickstarter project have a few good explanations of both why the design is effectively identical to a straight crank, and why the plan to make carbon-fiber versions is dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now leverage: if you tried to push down on the pedal (as shown in the&#xA;  video) when it was exactly top dead center and stopped, it doesn't&#xA;  matter if it is a normal crank or the Z-Torque, it will not want to&#xA;  move. They are two rigidly attached points in space, so it doesn't&#xA;  matter WHAT you use to connect them, 'physics' just treats them as&#xA;  though connected by a straight bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Simple proof: If you move the&#xA;  Z-torque back just 2 degrees before top dead center and apply a force&#xA;  (you could try with a weight rather than a foot to make it&#xA;  scientifically valid), you will see that it doesn't move FORWARD as&#xA;  would happen if your crank worked as you argue (advancing the leverage&#xA;  because of the bend), but still BACKWARDS the exact same as a normal&#xA;  crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It looks different but it works THE SAME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..and why it is dangerous:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) You absolutely cannot take a design that is optimized for machining&#xA;  &quot;mold them out of carbon fiber&quot;. Woven composite strength is highly&#xA;  anisotropic. If anything, your design shown in your picture is weaker,&#xA;  not stronger, than the machined part, if molded out of carbon fiber&#xA;  (and by that I assume you mean, &quot;molded out of cast polymer with a&#xA;  carbon fiber veneer on the front surface).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A true carbon fiber crank&#xA;  would have the fiber direction laid out (often by hand) in such a way&#xA;  that the fiber direction (or grain direction) aligns with the force&#xA;  exerted on the piece. So all that ladder structure that you've molded&#xA;  into the part,would actually make it a LOT weaker. It would also have&#xA;  machined metal components laid into the part and bonded to the&#xA;  composites for a metal-on-metal mating surface. See&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zipp.com/support/identify/carbon_cranks.php&quot;&gt;http://www.zipp.com/support/identify/carbon_cranks.php&lt;/a&gt; for an example&#xA;  of the construction technique - note the use of an aluminum spider&#xA;  that the actual crank is bonded to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5) Finally, and the most worrying point: You are dealing with an important piece of a bike's drive train. The failure mode on this is likely going to be the a cyclist cranking away and your crank giving way and breaking off. This is the makings of a serious, and possibly life altering accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Non-destructive testing and examination of composite materials is no joke. I can assure you that the folks from Shimano and RaceFace has years of experience building, validating and testing composite structures that they built. The failure modes of composite materials is also very different than traditional metal - there is very little to none inelastic deformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The mold and setup you show is good for producing cosmetic composite components (like my buddy's &quot;Carbon fiber&quot; gas and brake pedal). A mission critical drive train piece, not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1202837765/z-torque-bicycle-cranks-ride-faster-longer-easier/comments#comment-1403759&quot;&gt;complete comment&lt;/a&gt; is worth reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T12:57:36.433" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12650" CreationDate="2012-10-09T12:59:29.853" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately this doesn't help. The example pictures demonstrate misunderstanding elementary classical mechanics and more specifically, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Statics&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;statics&lt;/a&gt;. Moment, a.k.a. torque, is defined as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M = F * d&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;F = the force applied&#xA;d = the perpendicular distance from the axis to the line of action of the force.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shape of the crank has not effect on either. &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; is the force coming from the leg/foot, and &lt;code&gt;d&lt;/code&gt; is defined solely by the distance between pedal and hub, multiplied by sine of the angle between &lt;code&gt;F&lt;/code&gt; and the vector defined by the pedal and the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second example picture,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKrnJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the pushing hand is misleadingly positioned forward so that &lt;code&gt;d&lt;/code&gt; is increased, and that &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; increase moment. However, the &lt;em&gt;pedal&lt;/em&gt; is straight above the hub, so pushing downward still creates a zero moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the normal crank is &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt;, do you think adding arms &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; and would make a difference (except adding mass)? Remove &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt;, and you have a &quot;Z-shaped&quot; system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U2vJ0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="542" LastEditorUserId="542" LastEditDate="2012-10-09T14:24:08.030" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T14:24:08.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12659" CreationDate="2012-10-09T14:44:19.187" Score="-4" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a road bike for my daily commute. I live in Philadelphia and am looking on Craigslist and found a couple options. Let me know what you guys think. Feel free to suggest anything else you find around my area as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pastebin.com/V2KxLzyK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pastebin.com/V2KxLzyK&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5228" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-10-14T19:14:52.867" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T17:04:31.237" Title="Which bicycle do you recommend for a short daily city commute that can last for a solid 8-10 years?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-10-15T18:18:38.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2012-10-09T15:33:51.417" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple: Just take two rubber bands and stretch them around the bottom of your pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5228" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T15:33:51.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12656" CreationDate="2012-10-09T16:31:14.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any used ten speed that fits should work for a commuter.  Just examine the frame for cracks, and also for exposed rust or bubbles under the paint job.  I think you would benefit from a steel frame, both for longevity and smoothing out the potholes.  If its' longer than 10 miles or so one way a lighter weight bike might be a higher priority depending on your level of fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T16:31:14.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12656" CreationDate="2012-10-09T16:39:08.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any medium quality bike in good condition should hold up to 10 years of light commuting, with proper maintenance.  (But proper maintenance is key -- you need a new chain about every 2000 miles, new rear cluster about every 5000, new tires somewhere in there.  Chain needs to be cleaned and lubed occasionally, and everything adjusted about once a year.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several threads here that cover buying a used bike, such as this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7089/what-can-i-do-to-be-sure-im-getting-a-fair-deal-when-buying-a-used-bike/7096#7096&quot;&gt;What can I do to be sure I&amp;#39;m getting a fair deal when buying a used bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And be sure you read up on checking bike FIT.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T16:39:08.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2012-10-09T18:01:21.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was a teenager, the &quot;tight roll&quot; was in style. Nowadays I use it nearly every day to keep my pants out of the chain. It works better than anything else I've ever tried, is totally free, and you don't have to carry anything around with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tight_rolled_pants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tight_rolled_pants&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a video about how to do it: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/GFGR0vMLCVU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-03-22T16:45:26.690" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T16:45:26.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12656" CreationDate="2012-10-09T18:47:25.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute 13 miles each way on a mix of road and paved trails (poorly maintained), I started off using my old mountain bike but wanted something more road friendly.  After a lot of forum blog reading and asking on twitter I finally settled on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Cross Check&lt;/a&gt;.  I've used it four days a week for the past five months and love it.  I swapped out the knobby tires for slicks and added a rack and fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5233" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T18:47:25.140" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12665" CreationDate="2012-10-09T19:26:47.977" Score="0" ViewCount="4643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand why cyclists shave their legs. I shave my legs. But as of recently have felt kind of funny that my legs are smooth and my arms are hairy. Is there a reason why we don't shave our arms too? Or are you supposed to shave both? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5219" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T08:11:09.630" Title="shaving your legs, arms, or both?" Tags="&lt;body-hair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12663" CreationDate="2012-10-09T20:37:31.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's quite strange thing to &quot;understand&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's absolutely no bicycle-specific requirements to shave anything. Most people involved with sports (any sports) will do some shaving from time to time for various reasons. One of the leading reasons for shaving is the simple fact that a layer of body hair present under a layer of clothing significantly impairs ventilation and cooling. Because of that people involved with sports might prefer to shave the covered parts of their body. I'd say that for people living is hot/warm climate and practicing strenuous sport activities shaving the upper body is a must for this reason alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, having a layer of hair under modern sport clothing might also look bad from the aesthetic point of view simply because long body hair often tens to poke through the fabric and become visible on the outside, creating a weird &quot;hairy jersey&quot; effect (applies both to jerseys and tight shorts, in case of cycling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for shaving any body parts not covered by clothing... there's no real reason to do that, at least for ventilation/cooling purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T20:37:31.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12663" CreationDate="2012-10-09T20:48:20.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cycling, there are only a few reasons to shave:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Massage - feels better without all the hair tugging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taping/bandaging - In the event of a crash, taping and bandaging is easier without hair. Additionally, wounds in general are cleaner when incurred without hair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanity - Hair tends to cast shadows and blur the edges of well defined muscle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooling - Hair is an insulator, so especially hairy individuals will shave for the cooling effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some sports where shaving is done for performance purposes (chiefly swimming), but anyone that tells you that in cycling is fooling themselves. My personal experience is that crash scars heal better and are less visible when shaved, but that may be an individual thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T20:48:20.220" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12678" CreationDate="2012-10-09T21:27:11.277" Score="0" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know a collection of vintage road-bike, with pictures of their old school style and actual argus price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Mercier and I wonder, how much it can cost nowdays...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5236" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T18:50:27.740" Title="A vintage bike collection" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12666" CreationDate="2012-10-10T00:26:31.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/vrbn-a-f.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vintage bike pricing guide&lt;/a&gt;. It may be somewhat out of date because he died a few years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T00:26:31.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12650" CreationDate="2012-10-10T00:56:22.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It just adds extra weight and probably is less reliable due to increased flexing. The &quot;lever arm&quot; for mechanical advantage is the same as it would be for an arm that went straight to the pedal. This is like those adverts for &quot;male enhancement&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T00:56:22.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12676" CreationDate="2012-10-10T02:45:11.277" Score="4" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a used bike recently and I am curious to the make of my handlebar stem.&#xA;Would anyone be able to identify the brand logo?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wlYnH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5239" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-10-10T15:42:38.837" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T16:13:23.427" Title="What brand is this handlebar stem?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12650" CreationDate="2012-10-10T11:31:45.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This design adds nothing new, many cranks similar to this have been developed during the 100+ years of cycle design and all have failed to achieve the supposed power advantage and become mainstream. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy this if you like the look and feel of flex at the pedal spindle buy it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5241" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T11:31:45.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2012-10-10T13:09:10.760" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bought the carbon 50mm wheels, I put on the yellow velo plugs.  I had more plugs than necessary and I made sure the plugs fit snugly into each hole.  Some plugs didn't.  But I had enough plugs to choose from.  Its been over 2 years and I have not experienced any loss of plugs.  During those 2 years I had numerous punctures, front and rear and a change of tires as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5242" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T13:09:10.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12674" CreationDate="2012-10-10T13:19:00.770" Score="3" ViewCount="6583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently completed a 100 mile sportive that included a lot of riding through big puddles, fords etc.. bike got very muddy/gross and was making a lot of noise by the end of it! I gave it a quick once over with muc-off and a rinse after the event but really my bike needs a proper clean. I regularly lube my chain and keep that and the rear cassete clean and I often give the bike a good general clean but seeing as I've owned it since 2010 and never cleaned the other more fiddly bits can anyone offer any advice on what to watch out for when de-greasing/re-greasing derailleurs and whether I should bother with the crank and hubs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, I just bought some muc off de-greaser and some grease.. I'd like to give the bike a good proper service. I do NOT want to accidentally de-grease a wheel hub or whatever and screw it up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love my bike and I'd like to get into servicing it fully, but I don't have much time in my life to spend a whole day on one hub.. any advice? Also, I don't want to pay an LBS a fortune to do it for me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;John.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T20:49:05.110" Title="Deep cleaning - crank, derailleurs, hubs" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12673" CreationDate="2012-10-10T13:33:37.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like what you are asking for is a complete overhaul. Questions similar to this have been &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1848/213&quot;&gt;asked before&lt;/a&gt; so you can see answers &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/1860/213&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt; for checklists and procedures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing that makes your question different is the time issue. I agree you don't want to spend all day on one hub, and with a little study and practice you should be able to do a home-mechanic level overhaul in a couple hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you are working up to it, you can do one system at a time. For instance, one weekend you can deep clean the drive train. Then next weekend clean and lube the hubs (and possibly true the wheels). Then take a day and maintain brakes and cables. Take another day and overhaul the headset...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By doing one system at a time you will break the job into manageable pieces, and build confidence as you complete each one. And, you can continue to ride in between jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final advantage to breaking the job up is that some task require, or are much easier, with specialized tools (cone wrenches, crank puller, bottom bracket tool, etc). As you work down the set of tasks you can check whether you have the tools, and if not can either beg, borrow or buy, or can decide that particular task is one you will leave to your local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T13:33:37.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2012-10-10T14:12:24.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two additional things that haven't been mentioned yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, road rash is actually made worse by hairy legs. We all know that when you hit the pavement it acts like sandpaper scraping a layer off your skin. However, if you have hairy legs the hairs get pulled out by the root as well. This makes the road rash deeper where your skin actually comes into contact with the ground as well as making the surface area of the wound larger because of hairs that get pulled out around the actual contact area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And second, while road rash isn't as much of a concern for mountain biking, there's an additional advantage there too. It's easier to wash the crud off after a ride. You can just hose your legs off out of your water bottle and watch the dirt come off in rivers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T14:12:24.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12669" CreationDate="2012-10-10T14:23:54.293" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that's the logo for Dyno which was acquired by GT in the '80s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3cfw8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="66" LastEditDate="2012-10-11T16:13:23.427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T16:13:23.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="44" CreationDate="2012-10-10T14:34:16.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allegedly, shaved legs make it much easier to apply and remove embrocation, increases it effectiveness, and eliminates the &quot;bugs crawling on skin&quot; feeling when hairs pop back into position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI: embrocation is an ointment used to heat muscles &amp;amp; joints on chilly days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T14:34:16.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12666" CreationDate="2012-10-10T17:17:53.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://oldroads.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Old Roads&lt;/a&gt;. I don't know how accurate this information is though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As 'user973810' suggested, try &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/vrbn-a-f.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Vintage bike pricing guide &lt;/a&gt; as another reference.  Again, you may question the accuracy of the data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintage-trek.com/TrekPriceLists.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; Vintage Trek&lt;/a&gt; has some original price lists and a lot of information on old trek bikes.  If you happened to be looking for information on treks, then check there as a guide for info about the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a schwinn, I'd recommend checking (maybe even emailing) &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycleheaven.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Heaven&lt;/a&gt;, a shop and museum, they have a massive collection of vintage schwinn and other bikes. Here's another good guide on finding prices for old schwinn bikes at &lt;a href=&quot;http://schwinncruisers.com/bikes/value-guide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwinn Cruisers&lt;/a&gt;. Their site has a lot of info about old schwinn models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check recent ebay auctions and see if there are any completed listings for that bike. Try using &quot;completed items only&quot; checkbox. It may still be hard to find results for some bikes. You may be able to compare prices versus their inventory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.searchtempest.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; searchtempest &lt;/a&gt; to search multiple craigslist sites to see if there were any postings for that style bike anywhere. These can vary somewhat wildly from actual value, both above and below, depending on the seller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-10-11T18:50:27.740" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T18:50:27.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12650" CreationDate="2012-10-10T18:22:31.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have less room for the front wheel to turn when the longest part of the crank is horizontal to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have less ground clearance when the longest part of the crank is closest to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flex always loses power, and even if these were perfectly stiff, there is no mechanical advantage since force is not applied on the end of the Z but instead in the same place as a traditional crank.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These cranks are however perfect for cranks (eccentric people) or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=94318161&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;scrapers&lt;/a&gt; that want some bling and don't care about safety or efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T18:22:31.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-10-10T20:08:19.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well after a while of 2 dogs contiguously trying to bit my ass. I just shot the closest one and the other 1 now leaves me alone. Give it a try. (i used a CO2 gun)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5244" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T20:08:19.017" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12694" CreationDate="2012-10-10T22:37:33.583" Score="3" ViewCount="16997" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I need to be able to carry 3-4 days worth of groceries for one person, about a mile from the store to home. &#xA;I'm not too keen on the idea of panniers or anything else that mounts to the frame. I don't want any extra junk burdening me during the 99% of rides that aren't grocery runs. &#xA;So, I've been wearing a backpack but its a little small and not well suited to carrying groceries. &#xA;Does anybody have a suggestion that will work in my use case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T12:52:40.233" Title="Good backpack for carrying groceries" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-09-23T21:01:09.993" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9481" CreationDate="2012-10-11T00:15:16.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, not to encourage spammers, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uprightdesigns.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Totem Pole&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; an interesting design.  It does have the advantage that the weight is carried fairly close to the vehicle, so there's less torsion on the hitch -- maybe this isn't sufficient to really allow the weight of 6 bikes to be carried, but it likely handles 4 better than the standard horizontal beam rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be a bit concerned about carrying the bike's weight solely from the front wheel, as this design does.  At the very least you'd want your bikes to have &quot;lawyer lips&quot;, and on a long ride I'd be concerned about stressing/distorting the wheel.  Plus it's not clear (despite the cavalier statements to the contrary) that bikes wouldn't bump/rub each other while being jostled on a rough road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the rack probably has trouble with kids bikes, since the wheels will not hit the bottom bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T00:15:16.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12683" CreationDate="2012-10-11T01:35:13.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't want any extra junk burdening me during the 99% of rides that aren't grocery runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a Bontrager pannier (or two) like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/08102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bontrager.com/model/08102&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rack on my bike is permanent, but you can clip the bag onto onto the rack, or detach it again, in a second or two: so put it on the bike only when you're going to the store. I also take the bag into the store so I can fill it there, then bring it out already full and attach it to the bike and cycle off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T01:35:13.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12683" CreationDate="2012-10-11T09:25:42.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are carrying much weight panniers are much easier. The bike balances better and they don't put strain on your back like a heavy rucksack does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that there is a proper rack that you can fit if you have rear suspension on your bike. I wouldn't trust the ones that just bolt round the seat tube with very much weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T09:25:42.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12774" CreationDate="2012-10-11T10:11:15.053" Score="15" ViewCount="2715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my bike to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eddymerckx.be/EMX-1&quot;&gt;Merckx EMX1&lt;/a&gt; and started doing some serious riding.  I am riding 50&amp;ndash;70km(30&amp;ndash;45 miles once a week usually including a second cat climb and sometimes one or two 3rd and 4th cat climbs.  I have read through some of the nutrition questions and although the answers and suggestion apply in a general sense.  I have more often than not had problems of super high blood glucose after a ride, not problems with hypoglycemia.  This is because I am very worried about have a hypo while on a long ride.  I would be stuck far away from my car or possibly anywhere where I could get the instant help I need.  I am also usually alone (though I am looking to get involved with a group ride).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some help and advice on how to effectively eat before during and after a ride.  I usually stop half way through and test my sugars to make sure I am ok and see if I need to add more food.  I don't usually drink electrolytes but I make sure to stay well hydrated.  I carry nutrition bars and energy gels on my rides, usually way more than I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this excercise to stay fit and to lose weight.  I am 185cm (6ft 1&quot;) tall and 87.5KG (193 lbs), I would like to get down to around 80kg (176 lbs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is really how can I eat and take insulin effectively avoiding high and low blood sugar whilst making sure I am not eating too much that I have no net weight loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastEditorUserId="5247" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T08:01:29.043" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T14:24:35.167" Title="How can somebody with Type I diabetes keep blood sugar levels acceptable during and after a multi-hour ride?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6119" CreationDate="2012-10-11T12:07:16.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.ch3.gr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://blog.ch3.gr/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He is an average cyclist who did a UK to Greece ride 3 years ago and has captured all important information in that blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T12:07:16.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12689" CreationDate="2012-10-11T12:09:26.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been on week-long rides with Type 1 diabetics, though I've never had a chance to query them on their practices.  But my (non-cycling) wife is Type 1 (50 years) so I'm familiar with the issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, you should have a Medic Alert bracelet or neck chain, of course.  After that, you should probably carry a glucagon injector for serious hypoglycemic episodes.  And look into continuous blood glucose monitors -- they're still imperfect but are getting better.  (My wife credits hers with allowing her to lose about 10 pounds.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, probably it's &quot;know your body&quot; more than anything else.  You should keep a journal of ride info -- what you ate before &amp;amp; during the ride, glucose at start/middle/end, how much insulin you took, etc.  Also record, of course, time, distance, wind/hills, etc.  Try to learn whatever signals you're body is giving you when glucose is dropping on a ride -- there likely are clues if you look for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS:  If my conversions are right you're about 6'1&quot; and weigh about 193.  This is maybe just a hair on the high side of the &quot;recommended&quot; range.  It's probably more important for you to develop a healthy(er) lifestyle than to focus on any particular target weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-10-11T12:19:38.023" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T12:19:38.023" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1827" CreationDate="2012-10-11T12:33:12.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As User1376 was the first to point out, you can simply rotate the Biopace chainrings 2 bolt holes from its original setup to mimic what the ROTOR cranks do.  Worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5249" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T12:33:12.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12689" CreationDate="2012-10-11T13:07:17.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am 50 - 70km once a week usually including a second cat climb and sometimes one or two 3rd and 4th cat climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you might find easier, better for you, and good training, is to cycle shorter distances more frequently: like an hour or two for four days a week, instead of several hours on one day a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T13:07:17.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12683" CreationDate="2012-10-11T13:27:32.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/prod-53.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ortleib messenger backpack classic&lt;/a&gt;.  It will hold a ton of stuff and it's waterproof in case something bursts inside (it will stay inside). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go real fancy get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://missionworkshop.com/products/bags/backpacks/roll_top/large_vandal.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mission workshops vandal&lt;/a&gt;. It is a great multi-purpose bag and it expands to fit a lot of stuff.  Watch the video demo: &lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/10704302&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grocery Run - Vandal Roll-Top Backpack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to consider a quick release handlebar basket, depending on whether you have drop bars or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T13:27:32.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12683" CreationDate="2012-10-11T13:32:52.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest looking into &lt;a href=&quot;http://missionworkshop.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mission Workshop&lt;/a&gt;. I have two of their bags, and they are great quality, made in America and lifetime warrantied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5250" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-10-11T14:50:23.203" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T14:50:23.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12669" CreationDate="2012-10-11T13:35:15.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's either Dyno, or Diamond Back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5250" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T13:35:15.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5884" CreationDate="2012-10-11T14:49:22.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simplest way I have found to do this is with a &quot;Bag for life&quot; from Sainsbury's or Tesco, cut a section about 2.5 inches square and push it inside with a pencil. Works perfectly for me. It tends to last about 10-12 months depending on how much you use the lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5251" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T14:49:22.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12683" CreationDate="2012-10-11T15:00:52.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other answers suggesting a pannier - panniers are more suitable for transporting stuff than a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you do not transport anything except for short shopping trips, you can just use any half-decent backpack. Groceries for 3-4 days is not really that much, and it's only for a mile, so ergonomics should not be such a big problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many special bike backpacks, but they are usually designed for bicycle tours, to hold a helmet, a bottle etc.. For transporting groceries I'd just use a regular backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T15:00:52.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12683" CreationDate="2012-10-11T17:03:25.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with pannier and a quick release rack.  Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Racks/MTXBeamRackE-Type&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.topeak.com/products/Racks/MTXBeamRackE-Type&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4204" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T17:03:25.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-11T19:09:58.357" Score="5" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been putting up some pounds and have a bike gathering dust at home =D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally commute by bus or carpool, but would like an opinion from some more seasoned bikers on how you'd tackle this commute &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/maps/0ts21&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/maps/0ts21&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My excuses are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's scary, for me at least, because the destination is at some big highway with trucks and everything racing at +80 km/h.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike lanes down here in .mx are not even a concept in most parts of the country.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No place to shower at the destination and the job is white collar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crazy hot weather, up to 40°C and above at times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this doable?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, how should a noob tackle it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading and do share any insight you might have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5252" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T02:51:28.820" Title="How would the &quot;pros&quot; bike this commute?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;weather&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12701" CreationDate="2012-10-11T20:26:10.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest hurdle as I see is the heat. Perhaps you can pack a change of clothes and some wet wipes and a stick of deodorant to change and freshen up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of route it looks like you can avoid the highway by heading south. The bike track near the river looks like it could have some routes through on your bike that may not be accessible to cars. Same goes for the industrial park. I think the best way to start is use your free time to start scouting out potential routes. You already know the highway won't work for you but other routes look like they have some potential. Also use these non-rush hour traffic periods to develop good road presence. Take your lane and don't be bullied by cars. This will be essential when rush hour traffic is upon you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T20:26:10.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12701" CreationDate="2012-10-11T20:29:03.097" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a pretty quick look at the map, but I'm going to make a kind of general suggestion: If this is a trip that you're only used to traveling by motor vehicle, you might fall into the trap of thinking that the route you're used to is the only route available. Bikes can go lots of places that cars can't, and lots of places that cars just as frequently don't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just starting out, I would suggest avoiding the highway; it will just be really un-fun and discouraging. What I might suggest is that you start taking your bike out in the evenings, and start looking for other possible routes. You could even do some of this on your drive home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heat and the lack of shower space is something that really depends on your comfort. You should be able to avoid the heat of the day, and you won't be out long enough to really worry about dehydration, but you might want to at least change your shirt when you get to the office, and have a towel or something to wipe yourself down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4568" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T20:29:03.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12701" CreationDate="2012-10-11T20:30:10.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If 54D is the highway it looks like you can take a route like &lt;a href=&quot;https://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Softtek,+Licenciado+Gustavo+D%C3%ADaz+Ordaz+333,+Zona+Industrial,+San+Pedro+Garza+Garc%C3%ADa,+Nuevo+Le%C3%B3n,+Mexico&amp;amp;daddr=Jim%C3%A9nez+to%3aMiguel+Hidalgo+y+Costilla+to:25.668644,-100.443842+to:25.669959,-100.452683+to%3aBosques+del+Poniente,+Santa+Catarina,+Nuevo+Le%C3%B3n,+Mexico&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;ll=25.669998,-100.427699&amp;amp;spn=0.032259,0.063386&amp;amp;sll=25.672435,-100.43448&amp;amp;sspn=0.032258,0.063386&amp;amp;geocode=FWbAhwEdt9oD-iFAcges-wEhRymz2FRY2ZdihjFAcges-wEhRw%3BFainhwEdruMD-g%3BFRKrhwEdGJoD-g%3BFSSshwEdPlkD-g%3BFUexhwEdtTYD-g%3BFezOhwEddTUD-in1UwAyEJhihjHa6ZX_hetO7Q&amp;amp;t=h&amp;amp;dirflg=w&amp;amp;mra=dme&amp;amp;mrsp=1&amp;amp;sz=15&amp;amp;z=15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to get around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have commuted without a shower at my destination and found that as long as I shower before I leave it usually would be OK.  Just kept deodorant at the office, and changed in a bathroom stall.  You'll be a bit sweaty early on but it dies down.  The wet wipes are a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like to take clothes to work by car/train early in the week to minimize what I have to carry and how disheveled my appearance is throughout the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T20:30:10.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12673" CreationDate="2012-10-11T20:49:05.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Gary mentions, I think there might be two questions in here, one on servicing and one on cleaning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To &lt;em&gt;clean&lt;/em&gt; a bike, there isn't much you need to really worry about; get it up on a stand (if you have that option; otherwise you can just turn it upside down) get the wheels off and clean it as you would anything else. Soap and water will get the mud off, and your degreaser (I use WD-40 &amp;amp; a cheap citrus degreaser from the hardware store) will help on the drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;some more specific tips and tricks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the hardest thing to clean will be your drivetrain: cassette, chain, chainrings and rear derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chains: They make special tools for cleaning chains; a good DIY option is to take the chain off (you'll need a chainbreaker tool, and I'd look for quick instructions before removing a chain for the first time, there are a couple little tricks that will be worth the time) and drop it in a wide-mouth plastic bottle (gatorade eg) with some combo of soap/degreaser/wd-40 and shake it  well for a while; this should really get all the grit out of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cassette: also a thing they make &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/gearclean-r-brush-gsc-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;special brushes for&lt;/a&gt;: and kind of annoying, generally. I end up using some combination of a brush and then a thin strip of rag, and then basically floss between the sprockets. This works alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chainrings: just sort of annoying sometimes b/c it can be hard to reach in the gaps between chainrings. Some combination of a toothbrush and a rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rear derailleur: the important thing here is to clean the two pulleys, which can get caked in crud. I use a little pick to scrape it off, and then a tooth brush to clean up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is mostly it for &lt;strong&gt;cleaning&lt;/strong&gt;. This is a separate job from &quot;general service&quot;, i.e. servicing bearings and replacing cables &amp;amp; etcetera. Don't worry about your hubs/moving parts; they're well sealed, and you aren't going to get near them by accident. Everything that you can see is fair game and can handle a bit of soap and water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4568" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T20:49:05.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12701" CreationDate="2012-10-11T21:30:48.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just very generally speaking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First survey your route for &quot;choke points&quot; -- places like river crossings where you're forced to choose between a limited number of pathways.  Pick an overall route that selects the best routes through the choke points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observe other cyclists, and observe traffic at your likely commute time, and select routes between choke points that seem capable of reasonable cycle traffic.  Consider issues like left turns from a busy street, left turns onto a busy street, etc, and try to pick routes that minimize this sort of complication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look around near where you work for possible clean-up opportunities.  There may be some sort of a gym nearby, or your building may even have a maintenance room with shower in it.  Worst case you can take a &quot;bird bath&quot; in the lavatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Lots of larger buildings have a maintenance closet with a floor drain and a faucet, intended for emptying and refilling mop buckets.  You could ask if you could rig a shower curtain around the area and use a hose and spray head screwed to the faucet tap, making a crude shower.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally:  Cycling in Mexico???  Are you crazy????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-10-11T23:35:34.883" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T23:35:34.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12754" CreationDate="2012-10-11T23:02:13.830" Score="8" ViewCount="2382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek 3900 Mountain bike that had a serious creaking problem whenever I would pedal.  I found that the ring that holds the Shimano sealed bearing was really loose.  I tightened it up and it helped somewhat.  It loosened up again and I put loktite on the threads and really tightened it up but it is still creaking a little.  The bearing cartridge seems fine.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5256" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T23:29:01.653" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T21:13:19.787" Title="Creaking bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12943" CreationDate="2012-10-12T01:07:39.050" Score="2" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fixing up an old tandem, and the cup-and-cone bottom bracket at the front sounds very gritty, so I picked up my c-spanner and applied it to the lockring.  With a bit of effort, left cup and lockring both rotated together.  Not hugely surprising that they're stuck together - both bits are quite old and grimy.  But then I noticed that the &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; cup was rotating as well - as if it were rigidly attached to the left.  The entire set (two cups and lockring) won't easily rotate more that about 20 degrees,and I didn't want to push any harder.  How can this happen - aren't cups meant to be separate?  Will I damage it if I keep rotating it?  How should I unscrew it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more details:&#xA;The tandem is a 1940s Claud Butler - spec here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nkilgariff.com/CBcats/Cat_40/CB15.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nkilgariff.com/CBcats/Cat_40/CB15.jpg&lt;/a&gt;. The bracket is inside an eccentric casing.  I can't shift this at all, so I don't know how it's all connected inside.  BB make is Bayliss-Wiley.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos are here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/88429902@N04/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/88429902@N04/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5142" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T21:07:30.867" Title="I unscrewed the lockring, and *both* BB cups rotated - what's going on?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12701" CreationDate="2012-10-12T01:21:50.513" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have actually commuted in a very dangerous, hilly, bike un-friendly city (Tegucigalpa, Honduras).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here there are zero facilities for bike commuters, no racks on public transport, no bike parking anywhere and of course, no showers at workplace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tackled the problem with following strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leave home with plenty of extra time. When you travel to the workplace, don't race the clock, get it at a slow pace so you don't sweat as much. It also helps that the earlier the cooler the weather. It also gives you time to cool down when you get to the office, giving you time for personal cleanup. Getting there earlier also gives you the advantage of arriving before everybody else is there, so you make less of a show off. You also get a bit more privacy in the restroom.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Re think your route: As others wisely say, you must think as a cyclist, not as a driver/bus rider. You can take a lot of advantages being a cyclist, for example, walk your bike across a park, instead of a possible dangerous ride around it. Also, for a car it's not trouble to go an extra mile to take a u-turn, on a bike, you can find a suitable pedestrian crossing (dismount if necessary). Cars don't get much trouble with up hills, but for a cyclist it may be better to take an alternative street, possibly a narrower one but with less traffic, etc. as long as it is closer to horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carry separate clothing (A shirt, as minimum), deodorant, hair gel (if you use) and a couple of hand towels. You don't need to take a complete shower, just clean your upper body with a damp towel, then dry up with the other. Reapply deodorant, hair gel and you'll be ready. To avoid odor in the office, carry a plastic bag to store the towels and the sweated shirt. (Depending on the kind of shirt you may be able to wash it in the sink and dry it with the hand dryer, so it will be ready for the ride back home.) Some advise to carry a suitcase with these items by motorized commute and leave it at the office, so you can avoid hauling it on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some complementary strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you risk messing up your schedule, plan a &lt;strong&gt;test ride&lt;/strong&gt;. You can do it on a holiday or a weekend. Ride at the approximate same hour so you know about the weather. (It is not the same being out there alone than inside a car). You can try several route options, analyze every hot spot so you prove what's the best alternative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are riding in a city that does'n know about bike commuting, so you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be better thinking as an invisible entity. So ride in a way that you &lt;strong&gt;minimize chances of being hit&lt;/strong&gt; by a car. Sometimes it's better for a cyclist to use a less crowded crossing, even if it means walking the bike for a block, or riding against the flow a few meters. You can't judge such risks from a motor vehicle, you have to bike to get it. Walking is no the same either, most of the time, walking paths are not useful for bikes due to stairs, light poles, rain grills and other &quot;obstacles&quot; that do not interfere with pedestrians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An extra to point 1: When you are not in a hurry, you can turn your last 5 minutes of the ride into a low paced 10 or 15 minutes, that allow you to cool down, but, since you remain on movement, the air will dry you up before you get to the office (depending on weather of course). This helps a lot, because, most of body odor is not caused by sweat per se, but by the warm humid environment that allows for bacteria growth. If you eliminate both conditions, high temperature and high humidity in the strategic parts of your body, you can minimize odor issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To minimize sweating, you can also go for non obvious carrying options, i.e. avoid backpacks. Panniers and rear racks are useful, but if you don't have such, there may be alternatives. I have had success with a small messenger bag tied to my handlebars. Do not improvise too much and test before the actual commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally but most important: &lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt;: Do not ever ride without a helmet! You will need it the day you less expect it. Wear clothing that make you easily recognizable, use bright contrasting colors, preferable primary colors, (Yellow, red, blue) or bright secondary (Orange, violet, and some shades of green) avoid neutral tones like gray, beige, brown. (Only one piece of clothing in these colors is enough, you don't have to look like a clown ;) ). Put reflectors in front, rear of the bike, in the spokes, in the pedals, or appropriate substitutes, like reflective ankle straps, reflective tape, etc. Nevertheless, blinking lights are even better, a white one in front, a red one in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding another kind of safety: do not forget a suitable bike lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That pretty much covers what my experience has taught. Take it with patience and practice, at least here where I live, urban biking is enough of an extreme sport so do not take a lot of risk before you really measure your possibilities. Make your commute relaxed enough so it's worthy against your other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T00:21:56.807" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:21:56.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12701" CreationDate="2012-10-12T02:24:44.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's scary, for me at least, because the destination is at some big highway with trucks and everything racing at +80 km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The destination is &quot;Bosques del Poniente&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The approach from the north east crosses the &quot;Monterrey-Saltillo&quot; highway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid that, approach from the south: for example via &quot;Robles&quot; and &quot;Benito Juarez&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuing to work backwards, south of &quot;Robles&quot; is &quot;Mar Rojo&quot; which looks residential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect that residential roads have less traffic, slower and with fewer trucks, so easier for cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To approach that neighborhood, staying south of Highway 40 (&quot;Diaz Ordaz&quot;), maybe take &quot;Hermenegildo Galeana&quot; as a good east-west route for cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a route like &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/maps/uKhD8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/maps/uKhD8&lt;/a&gt; (or, even better if there's a bike-only route that would let you start your journey heading southwest, to get onto &quot;Bravo&quot; or &quot;Miguel Castilo y Costilla&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T02:24:44.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-10-12T09:23:51.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had some success with confidently and loudly giving the dog commands, such as &quot;Stay!&quot; or &quot;Sit!&quot;. I've had friendly dogs chase me in the park, probably just because they wanted to play. Shouting a command usually confuses the dog enough so that it abandons the chase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5261" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T09:23:51.340" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12715" CreationDate="2012-10-12T14:18:31.040" Score="14" ViewCount="15505" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the tyre looks fine, true and straight but the section photographed shows bulging. The rim itself is true, is this safe to ride on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IyyiB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bulging tyre&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T15:10:35.617" Title="Is it safe to ride on an unevenly bulging tyre?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12714" CreationDate="2012-10-12T14:40:57.410" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, no it is not safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks like the tire bead is not correctly seated (not clinching the clincher) in which case deflating and reseating will likely fix the issue (check the bead...if it's damaged, the tire is done).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other, less likely, possibility is a weak area on the tire. This is usually accompanied by a scrape or other damage to the sidewall of the tire...can't really tell in this picture, but I suspect you would have mentioned such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, riding on this can lead to a blowout. As it's a rear tire, this is not quite the horror it is with a front tire, but it still is not a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be safe, fix or replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T14:40:57.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12714" CreationDate="2012-10-12T14:46:15.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not ride until you have inspected it. I would suggest that you remove the tire and inspect the inside in the area in question. If there are no areas of dryrot or damage you're ok to use it providing the bead is fully seated. Also check to see if a twist or kink in the wire bead may be the cause of the bubble. As long as the bead seats correctly on the rim a little kink won't hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T14:46:15.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12714" CreationDate="2012-10-12T15:10:35.617" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, no -- not safe.  Some tire/rim combos don't center up well and can produce a version of the above even when reasonably well seated, but generally the effect isn't as extreme as what I see in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First inspect the tire for actual bulges, suggesting torn cord in the tire (which means the tire must be replaced).  If you don't find those, let all the air out of the tire, wiggle it around until it's evenly centered, then re-inflate.  If it looks OK after refilling, ride it around the block once and then recheck, and check again every 10-15 miles for the first 50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, for tires that refuse to center well, it works to inflate the tire to about half pressure and ride it &lt;em&gt;slowly&lt;/em&gt; a hundred feet or so, to make the tire seat itself.  (Then fully inflate, of course.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that you have the wrong size tire for the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T15:10:35.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12722" CreationDate="2012-10-12T16:00:44.657" Score="3" ViewCount="5404" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are good resources to use to find dirt roads, fire roads, gravel roads, or disused paved roads for planning a gravel grinder or ultracross style ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any particular atlases, online mapping resources, government departments to check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T19:28:47.070" Title="Resources for finding dirt roads for planning gravel grinding rides" Tags="&lt;maps&gt;&lt;planning&gt;&lt;navigation&gt;&lt;gravel&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-08-03T19:41:58.520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-12T19:01:40.067" Score="3" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm nervous about the ride and looking for some motivation, support and answers to a couple of questions.  I'm a 53 year old female and I've done 75, 80 and 100 miles before but never a two day ride for a total of 180 miles.  I've put quite a few hours in on my bike but I'm getting nervous now.  I know I can do the first day but I'm concerned about the second day and how I will feel.  I tend to feel a lot of burning across my shoulders and neck after about 50 or 60 miles.  Question 1: &lt;strong&gt;What can I do to prevent this?&lt;/strong&gt;  Also, &lt;strong&gt;what should I eat the night before the ride and is there anything I can do to prepare myself mentally and physically after the first day?&lt;/strong&gt;  Can I do this?  I won't back out now............I told my family I was crossing the finish line even if someone has to drag me across.  Please help!  I'm not even sure I can sleep tonight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5264" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T18:51:44.817" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T17:13:23.043" Title="How do I prevent neck and back pain, and recover physically/mentally on a multi-day ride?" Tags="&lt;organized-rides&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;muscle-pain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12719" CreationDate="2012-10-12T19:15:47.190" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to get off the bike.  Take a break every hour or so. Shake out your legs, shake out your arms.  Stetch your muscles.  When on the bike, try to remember to switch hand positions often set a timer on your watch every 10 minutes if you have to to remind you to switch things up a bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eat before you are hungry, at regular intervals.  Don't wait until you feel hungry to start eating. It's already too late at that point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't drink too much on the night between the rides. I don't know about the ride you are going on, but a lot of these two day rides have &quot;refreshments&quot; available at the end of the first day. A cold beer can be nice to relax you, but don't overindulge.  You'll regret it the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T19:15:47.190" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12689" CreationDate="2012-10-12T19:53:41.853" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too am a type one diabetic and I understand your concerns, how ever I might have some suggestions to help with your problem. I always make sure to carry a Camelbak pack with me to enure I have my Glucometer and other supplies along. I check my sugars before I start the ride, if possible I might have a little extra food at the time, just to get me started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also make sure to carry along some chocolate bars if my sugars get low. I find Oh Henry or Mars Bars to be good, since they have various types of sugar in them and they also have peanuts to help sustain the glucose intake. In addition to the sugar I bring along, I also bring protein bars since those have carbs in them, but also a lot of protein to help release the glucose in to your system slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The name brand or protein bars I use is called &quot;Clif Builders&quot; and you can get them at Costco in Canada, hopefully you could get them in your area as well or a similar product, the important thing is that the protein bars release the carbs slowly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also drop each of my insulin dosages by 2 units on my morning dose and sometimes my evening dose also gets adjusted because after a long ride your body continues to burn sugar at an accelerated rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This helps me not need to overeat, the high problem of high sugars after a ride is due to over compensating for the amount you fuel being burnt on the ride and most important of all at least until you get to know you routes really well and what you truly need for food intake, make sure to check your blood sugars on the ride before you eat and on a regular basis and bring along extra protein and chocolate bars, they don't take up much space and the Camelbak will have lots of room for them. Remember the Chocolate bars are only for when your sugars get low, otherwise stick to the protein bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also find your rides will be better and more energetic if your sugars are in the nominal range. The other advantage to lowering your dosage on riding days, is that it will help you lean down. It doesn't help you at all if you have to overeat to keep your sugars at a normal level, but if you lower your dosage and understand that the bike riding it self will lower your sugars to a degree it will make it easier, it really is about knowing your body how it burns sugar and how to balance it all on days you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. My longest ride so far was 55Kms and I found by dropping my morning dosage, it helped me out in not battling the insulin to keep my sugars up at a normal level. Perhaps if you are going on a longer ride you might need to lower your dosage another unit or two, don't make huge changes in dosages until you know your insulin needs. 2 units less is quite safe and make sure even if you lower your dosage to bring plenty of food along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you find this information helpful, enjoy the rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4070" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T19:53:41.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12718" CreationDate="2012-10-12T20:41:06.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good quality road maps will differentiate between paved and unpaved roads. I really like my &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.delorme.com/OA_HTML/DELibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section=10096&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gazetteer State Maps&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T20:41:06.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12718" CreationDate="2012-10-12T23:08:05.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing your location I can't give specifics. If you check for a local or regional mountain bike assoc. they should have some trail guides. In the northeast we have the new england mountain bike assoc. Most of these groups have websites with trail reviews. Not all of the trails are singletrack or downhill many are cartroads and firebreaks. Many trails are accessed via fireroads with descriptions and difficulty ratings. I use MTBR.com they have a state by state listings and reviews from users. Some will have maps or links to get them. Some have gps coordinates to locate key areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T23:08:05.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12719" CreationDate="2012-10-13T10:59:16.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to the Supurb answer by @kibbee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second day you may find the start hard - muscles are a bit tied and sore. Legs are not working like the did at the start of the first day etc, they are stiff and sore.... When it's a training schedule, you (well me anyway) would normally say &quot;Best to rest and recover&quot; - so it's not something you will have dealt with much before.  If this is the case - take it easy, and get warmed up slowly and before you know it, that sore and stiff feeling will be gone, and you will be feeling good again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the first day - you need to get the glycogen stores replensihed - this is best done with a decent quality carbo feed within an hour of stopping. It's nice to have a rest and cold brew and socialise - but make sure you get a carbo meal in. Now is not the time to be on the latest anticarbo fad diet - or shy about going back for seconds either (not the wine/beer). You need to replensih the calories you used. It's also important to recover lost fluid - We used a rule of thumb when climbing moutains - if you have got dehydrated- drink until you pee, then drink another litre before bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have already riden 100 mile in a day - you can do a second day -it's your head that will stop the legs turning, not the otehr way round. &quot;If you think you can or think you can't, you will probably be right&quot; (paraphasing Henry Ford.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am saying you can do it - I am not promising it will be easy - good luck......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T10:59:16.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12735" CreationDate="2012-10-13T11:48:37.030" Score="9" ViewCount="8030" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old cruising bike with 21 gears. A few months ago I was pedalling back home when my chain broke, and I was only able to get the chain replaced this week. After having it replaced I noticed it was 'skipping' and the problem seems to be more severe in certain gears. Now, the teeth are a 'bit' worn out (particularly in the middle gear at the front), and the 'skipping' didn't happen with the old chain (makes sense as the old one probably stretched a lot). Any idea what could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T08:32:50.450" Title="Chain skipping on some gears" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12726" CreationDate="2012-10-13T13:40:13.100" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The likely cause is a worn cassette if the skipping is in the rear. Since the gears you use the most will wear the fastest the skip may be worse on some of them.  But also look at the jockey wheels in the rear derailleur. If they have alot of wear they may not be keeping the chain aligned. If the front is worn and the back has never been replaced you are likely due for a cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T13:40:13.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12718" CreationDate="2012-10-14T02:39:17.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.psiee.psu.edu/preview/map.ashx?layer=260&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;map of Pennsylvania&lt;/a&gt; with dirt roads overlaid a while back.  Not aware of similar projects but I imagine/hope they are out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T02:39:17.713" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12726" CreationDate="2012-10-14T07:17:14.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they're dirty or rusty, clean the chains (using a scrubber like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/cyclone-chain-scrubber-CM-5-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/cyclone-chain-scrubber-CM-5-2&lt;/a&gt;) or just lubricate it with WD-40 if you're lazy. WD-40 isnt a proper lubricant, but will dissolve a lot of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your chain is clean, check for chain wear (unlikely since it's new).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that you have the wrong chain. There's different chains for 7, 8, 9, and 10 speed rear gears/cassettes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But MOST IMPORTANTLY, I'd say check your derailleur alignment. There might be a dial/twisty along the cable that can help with alignment, or there's two small screws on the rear derailleur to change the alignment. You'll want the chain to be centered on each ring of the cassette. Here's a guide that sorta helps: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5270" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T07:17:14.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12726" CreationDate="2012-10-14T10:24:30.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a chain gets sufficiently worn, it will start inflicting wear damage on the chainrings and sprockets (in extreme cases, causing the teeth to take on a hook shape).  This wear will cause problems with gear changes and pedalling, and your only option at that point is an expensive replacement of a significant portion of the drive train (You'll probably need to replace the chainrings, sprockets and cassette, and possibly your deraileurs as well if you can't get parts compatible with the current ones).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky, your deraileurs just need tuning.  Badly aligned deraileurs can cause all kinds of issues, but they should go away if you can sort the alignment out.  There's a couple of adjustment screws you can use to calibrate the gear shift.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping your chain in good working order and replacing it quickly when it starts showing signs of wear is important, because chains are one of the cheapest parts of the drivetrain and can cause very expensive damage if worn or damaged chains aren't replaced quickly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T10:24:30.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12732" CreationDate="2012-10-14T16:06:25.743" Score="5" ViewCount="2317" Body="&lt;p&gt;At work, we discussed when to change to winter tires for bicycles (and cars). We assumed that temperature was the key factor and I used a program (Mathematica) to check the mean temperature in Stockholm (see this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://mathematica.stackexchange.com/q/13030/1635&quot;&gt;Probability of ice in Stockholm&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: besides the risk of ice, &lt;strong&gt;what are key factors for deciding when to change from summer tires to winter tires&lt;/strong&gt;? E.g. is the rubber of summer tires negatively impacted when it gets colder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4548" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:56:10.657" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T13:52:14.853" Title="When to change winter tires for bicycles" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12731" CreationDate="2012-10-14T17:25:35.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I weigh the advantage of increased control against the cost of snow tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Studded tires take quite a bit of wear on dry pavement. Each stud type will have a different life span based on materials tire shape etc. My anecdotal experience shows stud life on dry pavement to be about 500 miles. I have done winters without studs because it never reached a consistently icy state. The handful of icy days could be mitigated by route choice (both to avoid dangerous traffic locations in ice, but also to avoid shady spots where ice is more likely). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switch over once it starts reaching 3 icy days per week or a commute route which has over a 1/4 mile of constant snow/ice. My winter commuter is a rigid frame/fork mountain bike with relatively fat tires (~1.75 in) at low pressures (25-30 PSI). It is quite stable and a major contributing factor in holding off on studs until it gets very icy. That said I took 2 falls last winter without studs due to ice. No other falls in the past year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastEditorUserId="3047" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T15:30:46.113" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T15:30:46.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12731" CreationDate="2012-10-14T17:44:36.640" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cost of burning through studded tires can start to add up. I find it more efficient to keep a pair of studded tires installed and ready to go on an older pair of wheels, and I can just throw them on if it looks like it's going to be an icy day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T17:44:36.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12707" CreationDate="2012-10-14T17:50:47.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the shell off of each side of that bottom bracket and grease each one up, along with the spindle. When you tighten that bottom bracket back on, don't over torque it or under torque it, if you over torque or under torque that bad boy is going to squeak. If you aren't sure of the torque or you don't have a torque wrench, visit your local shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the shell off of each side of that bottom bracket and grease each one up, along with the spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T17:50:47.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12726" CreationDate="2012-10-14T18:08:14.637" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you asked for an explanation, why this skipping is happening, here it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the beginning let's consider an unused chain on an unused sprocket. In this case the distance between the teeth of the sprocket is the same as the length of the chain links. Therefore, if you apply a force to the sprocket via the chain, the load is equally distributed over all teeth that are in contact with the chain. Due to the force the chain lengthens over time (not much, about 1-2% is enough to make the chain unuseable) which means that the chain links no longer fit the sprocket's teeth distance and also the load distribution isn't equal any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, the tooth that is closest to the direction where the force comes from (the last one on the sprocket where the chain leaves towards the chain-blade and the first one one the chain-blade where the chain comes from the sprockets) gets the most load and therefore is wearing out a bit more than the other ones. As everything goes round and round and every tooth is in the position to wear out more than the others, the teeth will slightly adapt the valleys between them to fit the length of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you replace now the chain by a new one while keeping the cassette the same (it would be the same if you replaced the cassette keeping the chain), then the chain doesn't fit any more to the cassette that has adapted to the length of the used chain links. If the length difference between old and new chain links is too much (as already said, some 1 or 2% are enough) the chain will slide up the shoulders of the teeth and skip into the next (or even the next-nearest) valley as soon as the applied force gets too high. One can make the components last somewhat longer by changing the chain early enough, but as both, chain and cassette are wearable parts they have to be replaced sooner or later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on different factors how fast this wear-out process will be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dirt and lubrication:&lt;/strong&gt; Dust, rust, sand etc. act like grinding media which increase the friction between the chain and the sprocket and therefore accelerate the wear-out. A well cleaned and lubed drive train therefore lasts longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Load per tooth:&lt;/strong&gt; The higher the force working on the sprocket and the lower the number of teeth over which this force is distributed, the faster the teeth are wearing out. Therefore it is usually the smallest sprockets on your cassette that at first show the skipping as they get quite a high load &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; have not much teeth which have to take this load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Usage frequency of the sprocket or chain-blade:&lt;/strong&gt; of course, a sprocket that is used more often wears out faster. This is the reason why for most people the middle sized chain-blade at their cranks will show skipping (if they ever come that far within the lifetime of their bike ;-).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that a road bike, where you normally don't have much dust and try to pedal rather smoothly without any rapid changes in force, can go several thousands of kilometers on one chain. With mountainbikes where you have the exact opposite (lots of dirt, often sharp load peaks when you go to rough terrain) the rule of thumb that I learned some years ago is to replace the chain every 2000km. Even then you will need a new cassette every second or third chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2018-05-29T08:32:50.450" LastActivityDate="2018-05-29T08:32:50.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12737" CreationDate="2012-10-14T19:18:44.190" Score="4" ViewCount="868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of tubular Continental Sprinter Gatorskin (28&quot; x 22mm) that have been sitting in the box on the floor for close to four years.  They look fine, but I'm worried that they won't last long if I mount them.  Should I get new tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some extra information: I have an iron-distance triathlon soon and my rear tire popped today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5275" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T00:35:08.933" Title="What's the shelf life of tublar tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12736" CreationDate="2012-10-14T20:12:07.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shelf life is going to be different depending on the quality and composition of the specific tire, and the storage conditions.  In general though, you should be able to see if a tire has gone over or not: if the rubber is still soft and pliable, it should be fine to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess that your tires are still okay, but without seeing the tire i can't give you better than a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5276" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T20:12:07.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12739" CreationDate="2012-10-14T23:14:53.300" Score="3" ViewCount="4048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a bike. The headset is in the head tube, and the next thing is to fit the stem and handlebar to the steerer. At this point, it seems I need some headset spacers in between the headset and the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many headset spacers am I likely to need? Or rather, how much total height of spacers? Is there any way to work this out other than trial and error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame has quite different geometry to my current frame, although my body's geometry is not changing. Should I try to reproduce the space on my current bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Headset spacers are available in all sorts of combinations; would it be prudent to get something like a pack of five 10 mm spacers? Or a set of a 10 mm and two 5 mm? Am I likely to need more space than that? Less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T23:50:06.580" Title="How many headset spacers might I need?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12738" CreationDate="2012-10-14T23:50:06.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a close approximation if you have access to a trainer. Install the bike in the trainer with the fork and headset installed. Using a front wheel riser block will make the fit closer to your actual riding position. You can now install the stem at any height you like. When you find something close measure the gap between the bottom of the stem and the top of the headset. I would get a variety set. Most come with a 2mm,5mm,10mm and 20mm. I just did this myself and I got an extra 20mm that I installed above the stem.This allows for some flexibility later. The spacers can be shifted for a different fit for different riders or resale. It is easier to cut the steerer later than try to make it longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T23:50:06.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12937" CreationDate="2012-10-15T12:46:09.727" Score="8" ViewCount="21073" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to take out my rear shock but one of the 2 allen bolts that is holding it (the upper one) has been rounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xIIRU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/juIv3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told about various ways that such a bolt can be taken out including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hammer a torx in and unscrew&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drill a line using a dremel and unscrew with a screwdriver (I don't think the latter will work, the bold is too tight)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hammer a larger allen key in and unscrew&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drill the hell out of the bolt (I don't want this because I'm afraid I'll damage other parts of the link (bushings etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you propose for this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T04:50:55.260" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T20:42:21.340" Title="Unscrewing a rounded allen bolt" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12741" CreationDate="2012-10-15T13:09:31.527" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd try a screw remover like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001A4CWHO&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. You'll need to either get a set or bring the bolt in to make sure you get the right size (Sears sells their own version that's supposed to be excellent). The good ones have a left-hand thread and a small cutting head to bite into the bead of the bolt; this looks like a really good candidate for a screw remover since the head is nice and large and has enough material for the remover to be able to grab. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T13:09:31.527" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12741" CreationDate="2012-10-15T13:11:17.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are special &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_extractor&quot;&gt;screw extrators&lt;/a&gt; for this purpose. Every well equipped car or bike repair should have such, maybe you will also find them in a DIY store. The only question is, if it is worth the money to buy an own one if you have only one screw to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Screw-Extractor&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T13:11:17.357" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12656" CreationDate="2012-10-15T17:04:31.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long is your commute? If it is not very long, a road bike may not be the best choice. A mountain bike or a hybrid is cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the pavement like? If the roads are rough, a road bike will not be as comfortable or as stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is bike fit. Try on the bike before buying it. If you want to use it for 10 years, you want it to be comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5281" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T17:04:31.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12683" CreationDate="2012-10-15T17:11:09.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick release handlebar bag and a large backpack sound like the best answers but I wanted to throw out one more option-- a trailer. Easy to hitch and unhitch, and it has much larger cargo capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5281" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T17:11:09.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12753" CreationDate="2012-10-15T18:47:12.827" Score="8" ViewCount="6057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to ask how come some cyclists when they ride they lean forward, with their arms straight, resemble a 45 to 60 degree angle (which looks cool by the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hybrid bike and I wish I could get that look and it seems to be more efficient because some of the weight looks to be shifted in the front wheel compared with cycling on a straight back (90-80 degrees angle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the distance between the seat and the handlebars? Is that the reason they have to bend their body? Or is it something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5029" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-02-24T20:57:55.977" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T20:57:55.977" Title="How come some cyclists lean forward at a 45 - 60 degree angle and I don't?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12747" CreationDate="2012-10-15T19:14:21.677" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're referring to is tucking, an act that's most easily done with drop bars - the curved handlebars with multiple hand positions you see on road bikes. The holy grail for some hardcore roadies (road cyclists) is the &lt;em&gt;flat back&lt;/em&gt;, where the rider is tucked all the way forward, their hands on the lower part of the drop bars - the &quot;drops&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is done so that the cyclist will present less surface area to the wind, and therefore there will be less drag. The &quot;flat back&quot; is most easily achieved when the saddle (the seat) is higher than the handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, placing more weight on the front wheel is mostly incidental here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hybrid bikes almost always come with flat handlebars, so while it's technically possible to tuck to the degree a road cyclist does, it'd be intensely uncomfortable to maintain. The distance between the seat and the handlebars is a factor here, but less of one than saddle height. (You can look up questions on &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/bike-fit&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'bike-fit'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;bike-fit&lt;/a&gt; for more information on these variables, since fit is a bit of a black art and there's a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of information available on the subject.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T21:08:17.393" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T21:08:17.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12752" CreationDate="2012-10-15T20:28:43.630" Score="3" ViewCount="4681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to remove the bottom bracket from an old french peugeot race frame. I believe the frame was built in 79 judging by the decals and stamp on the bb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom bracket and spindle at the moment will spin, but feel very dirty and sounds gritting so I want to take it apart to clean/regrease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm almost certain its a french bb and not swiss based on the info on from cyclespeugeot.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about ready to start this but have a few questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From what I have read, I only need to remove the left adjustable cup to service the BB?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The left adjustable cup will be left threaded so will need to turn clockwise to undo?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the lock ring also left threaded? It has an outer diameter of 47mm and i'm currently struggling to find a locking ring tool to fit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying todo this properly as it seems getting a new or used french bb is not going to be worth it and I might as well get another frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, here are a couple of pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1DvSQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lEvL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5286" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T03:02:06.573" Title="Removing bottom bracket from 79 peugeot frame" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12750" CreationDate="2012-10-15T21:15:26.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually one only needs to remove the left cup to service the bottom bracket. With Fench/Italian BBs the right cup is usually so tight it's not worth even trying (I personally attempted two times but never succeded EDIT. I also managed to damage a Park Tool BB remover, worth 15 quids...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left cup is always right threaded, in any case the lockring &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; have the same thread orientation of the cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the oversized lockring, I have had a good rate of success using adjustable pliers, just hold them tight enough so to avoid losing grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, it's always worth repairing, or at least trying to!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T21:15:26.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12747" CreationDate="2012-10-15T21:19:29.690" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;To complement Neil Fein's answer, the rider's position is almost entirely controlled (given a particular rider) by the geometry of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare the following bikes. In the first image of a hybrid bike, the saddle is slightly below the handlebars. In the second image depicting a road racing bike, the saddle is well above it, forcing the rider to lean farther over to reach the lower handlebar position. In the third image of a time trial bike, the seat height and handlebar height have remained relatively unchanged, but the seatpost is at a much steeper angle and the intended grip brings the arms much further forward, forcing an even more horizontal position in order to put the hands on the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.giant-bicycles.com/_generated/_generated_us/bikes/models/images/2000/2013/Via_1_blue.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.giant-bicycles.com/_generated/_generated_us/bikes/models/images/2000/2013/TCR_Advanced_SL_Rabobank_ISP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.giant-bicycles.com/_generated/_generated_us/bikes/models/images/2000/2013/Trinity_Composite_1_W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now look at the riders in this next series of images to better see the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/80gCB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/80gCB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;upright riding position on a blue bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycledutch.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/davis1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bicycledutch.wordpress.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fijB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fijB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Road bike position on the tops&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/sjaradona/7651131508&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.flickr.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7UVf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7UVf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesportmichigan.com/reviews/Cervelo-P3C-2008/lg/038_Cervelo_P3C_2008.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bikesportmichigan.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-02-24T20:53:42.023" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T20:53:42.023" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12707" CreationDate="2012-10-15T21:48:22.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creaks are notoriously difficult to diagnose. Because a bicycle is constructed from tubes, sounds often travel through the tube and sound like they are coming from a completely different place than where they actually originated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following are, in more or less descending order, the most common causes of creaks that sound like they're coming from the bottom bracket. As you run through the list, take each bolt and/or part off; clean it, re-grease it, and tighten it back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom bracket tightness. Check both sides. If you have access to a torque wrench, use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crank bolts. You probably had to take the crank off to get to the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chainring bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedals. Make sure that they're bolted on tight. Make sure that there's no play on the pedal axles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt that clamps your front derailleur on. The derailleur can creak when the frame flexes if it's not tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seatpost and clamp. The seatpost moving inside the seat tube can cause a creak that sounds like it's coming from the BB. Take it out, clean it, grease it, put it back. The seatpost rails can also creak where they attach to the seatpost or where the go into the seat. That sound won't usually travel to the bottom bracket, but anything's possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of that does the trick, work your way outward from the bottom bracket checking every single bolt on the bike. It could really be just about anything. Creaks can be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ever helpful Sheldon Brown has a good article on diagnosing and fixing creaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T11:26:08.447" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T11:26:08.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12759" CreationDate="2012-10-16T00:06:10.647" Score="23" ViewCount="5054" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background information&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of background information (I'll try keep it brief): Last year I bought an old but unused bike, 5 speeds with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/1728#1728&quot;&gt;internal gearing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the shop bought a lot of bikes somewhere in the 90's (not sure), but never got around to selling them. When I bought it, it was wrapped in plastic, had been stored in the shop's stock house for about 20 years and free of corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about 95 kilos, thread quite hard but rides exclusive to paved bike paths. The original, 20(?) year-old wheel lasted me a year with no problems. The front wheel is still fine and true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Spokes breaking - and getting replaced&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a little under a year, I suddenly noticed that a few &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/13056#13056&quot;&gt;spokes&lt;/a&gt; had broken. On closer inspection, quite a few were too loose. Should have noticed sooner but didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to a shop, where they advised me to have the wheel rebuilt which I paid them to do. The gearing being internal, the new rims and spokes were built on the existing hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After just two weeks, the back wheel suddenly began to feel wobbly on my way to work. As careful as I could, I drove the bike back to the shop. Almost all spokes were terribly loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They retensioned the wheel free of charge (of course) and sent me on my way. The following weeks, I periodically checked that all spokes were still tensioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2,5 months later, I noticed three of the spokes were broken close to the hub. Went back to the shop and had the spokes replaced (free or charge). 1 month later I noticed 2 broken spokes and had those replaced as well. They seemed less eager to keep fixing the wheel free of charge, and when I asked why the spokes kept breaking, the guy muttered something about the hub holes maybe had burrs due to wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, a few weeks later, I find another spoke broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut tells me this all stems from a bad build, that quickly lost tension and thus damaged the spokes. I find the explanation about a worn hub a bit far fetched, but I don't have the knowledge to dismiss the theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the shop's fault? - A bad build? Cheap spokes? Improperly tensioned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the wheel's history, is there any point in keep replacing spokes, a couple at a time, or should I get the wheel rebuilt (preferably at the shop's expense)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the hub in any way be to blame for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update Oct 24th&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to get in touch with the manager of the shop throughout the week. Failed again to reach him this morning, so I figured I'd have a chat about my problem with one of the guys on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried to get him to provide at least a theory of why my spokes keep breaking, but not much came out of it really. He mentioned that he've seen, on rare occasaions, that a worn hub could cut the spokes (could be the same guy as I spoke to last time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll check the hubs as soon as possible, as @Daniel R Hicks suggested. Due to plumbing work in our appartment, I haven't been home or able to check my bike all week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't see any indicatations that the spokes were put in the wrong way, I'm going to follow the advice most of you have, and take my bike to another shop for advice and repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so far! - I'll update you after I've payed the other shop a visit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update Nov 3rd&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took the bike to the other shop, told them the story. Let them decide to replace the broken spoke or them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They decided to replace just the broken spoke with a DT spoke (what ever that means). They also trued the wheel, which had gotten a slight &quot;eggy&quot; shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fingers are crossed that this wheel will last now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once again, thank you all for your input!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Anecdotal Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case anyone follows... Since the last repair at the other shop, the wheel kept being in good shape. Finally, my spokes stayed tensioned, wheels stiff and true - the long struggle was finally over. Alas, the joy didn't even last a month...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going home from a company party, I returned to my bike I parked at the train station, only to find out that some punk kids had apparently tossed it to the ground, and jumped both wheels badly out of shape. Front wheel had to be replaced and back wheel was in desperate need for a trueing. &lt;em&gt;sigh&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the melodrama, just thought I'd update you the faith of my bike ;-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3123" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T07:18:53.643" Title="Spokes keep breaking - bad hub or bad build?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12756" CreationDate="2012-10-16T01:19:10.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to investigate the hub yourself particular after the next spoke breaks. Think of the breaks as a series where the first breaks followed by others after the wheel has lost true. The first in each series of breaks will be at the flange if the hub has issues. Otherwise look to have the wheel rebuilt elsewhere. Why risk your safety on a job they are repeatedly doing wrong, even if it is &quot;free&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T01:19:10.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12756" CreationDate="2012-10-16T03:21:59.700" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wheel is only as strong as the tension on the spokes. If the wheel was loose for any significant length of time before you noticed it, the spokes will fatigue very quickly, because they are flexing through a range of motion which is not intended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are a big guy at 95 Kg, so this type of problem is not unusual (as am I). That means that you need to be especially wary of loose spokes and rapid detensioning of your wheels. Most &quot;system&quot; wheels have an 85-100 Kg bike and rider weight limit. It would be difficult to conclude that it is the the sole responsibility of the shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is a recognized problem, and one your shop should have discussed with you prior to rebuilding the wheels. In addition, they should have prepared you to check and tune the wheels with greater frequency.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A break in &quot;tune up&quot; is normal and expected on a new wheel, after about 1 months riding, but it can come much faster for a heavy rider.  If the wheel is ridden loose, the fatigue damage to the spokes can be permanent, and require rebuilding the wheels again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not quite the fault of the shop, but it sounds as if they did not take the care and time to explain the necessities of the new wheels, and certainly, blaming &quot;burrs in the spoke holes&quot; is not a valid excuse, as any competent mechanic must check the hub condition before using it in a new build. Spoke holes, if there were burrs (unlikely, on a wheel you rode for a year without problems) can be deburred easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation: discuss these things with the owner or manager of the shop (not the mechanic who did the work, unless that is the manager), and ask him to rebuild the wheels again, properly, with new spokes and rims. If he agrees, and does it, then well and good.  If not, cut your losses, and move on to a shop with a higher level of competence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T03:28:12.533" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T03:28:12.533" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12756" CreationDate="2012-10-16T03:27:54.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Burrs on the hub&quot; sounds bogus to me.  Could be the case with a new hub, but burrs would be worn away with use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems most likely that the hub was reassembled by &quot;unskilled labor&quot; (the new/careless guy in the shop) and he didn't notice that the hub holes are &lt;em&gt;directional&lt;/em&gt; -- there is a countersink on one side of the hole and not the other -- or didn't understand how you put spokes in such a hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the holes are directional, you put the head of the spoke on the non-countersunk side, so that the curve of the spoke mates with the smooth countersink.  Placing spokes the opposite way will result in the curve of the spoke being against the sharp corner of the hole (and a broken spoke).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check this, look at any hole where a spoke is broken.  If the two sides the hole are different, the side with the smooth rounded countersunk shape should be matched with the bend in the spoke, and the head should be on the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that machine spokes were used.  These spokes have a longer distance between the head and the bend, to simplify things for lacing machines.  But these are bad for hand lacing, as there is too much &quot;lever arm&quot; unsupported by the spoke hole, and the heads will tend to pop off.  If such spokes are used one must use small spacer washers on the head side to pull the bend tightly to the curve of the spoke hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, of course, they could be lousy spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If they were breaking at the rim end this would be due to the way the rim is drilled and possible missassembly placing left-facing drilled holes with a right-facing spoke, or simply spokes that aren't strong enough to stand up to the stress of being slightly bent at the nipple.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T03:27:54.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-16T03:44:59.663" Score="9" ViewCount="7713" Body="&lt;p&gt;The LBS's in my area tend to have major sales around the same time once or twice a year. During this time, I can get replacement tubes at about half their normal price. I can buy several tubes, enough to last a year or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to store the tubes so they last as long as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T15:01:41.403" Title="How should I store inner tubes to maximize their shelf life?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12761" CreationDate="2012-10-16T03:55:07.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Store in a cool dry and dark place. In my other life as a whitewater kayaker I own a drysuit with latex gaskets. The latex is very similar to the rubber on the tire. We use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/shopping/product/15127150150580333048?q=mcnett%20seal%20saver&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS442US442&amp;amp;prmd=imvns&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&amp;amp;fp=be0b1266294419e3&amp;amp;bpcl=35277026&amp;amp;biw=1536&amp;amp;bih=1119&amp;amp;tch=1&amp;amp;ech=1&amp;amp;psi=Itp8UP6FH8_piQK37YCAAQ.1350359587802.3&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=Jtp8UIm4GKjUigLbvIFw&amp;amp;ved=0CEoQ8wIwAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seal saver&lt;/a&gt; a silicon gel to lubricate and moisturize the gaskets for longer life. The gaskets go through way more abuse than a typical tire does but the silicon gel works miracles. I think if I was going to store inner tubes for more than a 2 years I would think about applying some before packing the tubes away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T03:55:07.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12761" CreationDate="2012-10-16T06:18:16.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rubber doesn't like to change temperatures too often, so when you pick a (dry) place to store your tires, try to determine where the temperature is going to be most consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T06:18:16.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12761" CreationDate="2012-10-16T08:07:15.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the cool dark place, I would also suggest keeping them in their retail box/container to minimise the chance that something could brush against them and puncture them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is from experience - I left some on a shelf in a shed and some garden implement or other ripped a hole in the side!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B. this is the main reason for having the little cap on the valve - to avoid accidental self-puncturing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T08:07:15.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12708" CreationDate="2012-10-16T08:35:57.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This a request for clarification rather than an answer (sorry, I don't have enough rep to comment yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing to assess is the threading of the right cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the BB is English threaded, because it's a CB product; if this is correct then when you unscrew the right threaded left cup, the &lt;em&gt;left&lt;/em&gt; threaded right cup would rotate in the same direction, hence would unscrew itself. Can you see a gap developing between the frame and the right cup when you unscrew the left cup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my assumption were correct, the fact that they do not rotate more than 20 degrees might indicate that there's some sort of connection (intended or not) between the two. By unscrewing both sides simultaneously you are stretching the connection, hence the block at only 20 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, sorry if the following comments sound offensive. Depending on your experience in bicycle repairing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are you sure you are not rotating the whole eccentric when you rotate the cups? I can see you have an eccentric in your pictures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you might be surprised on how much strength one needs to unscrew old BBs, so when you say &quot;won't easily rotate&quot;, what do you mean exactly? Are you applying strength with the arm only or are you using your body weight?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5278" LastEditorUserId="5278" LastEditDate="2012-10-18T13:29:50.503" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T13:29:50.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12777" CreationDate="2012-10-16T08:40:18.543" Score="0" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm kind of frustrated by this, because after long time of internet searching, I found none that would satisfy my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I want to HAND-DRAW my route by first clicking it's endpoints, then refining the route in between.  So, I need a tool that will have ONE feature that all other tools lack - INSERTING a point between two points already in place.  Of course, it has to work ON google maps in satellite mode, so I can map across the fields and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't care for an algorithm, since it is useless - I'm not following charted roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW: HAND-DRAW above means to draw it by hand on a computer, not on a paper :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="635" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-10-17T13:48:03.460" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T14:01:56.293" Title="Route mapping tool - INSERTING a point" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;maps&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12731" CreationDate="2012-10-16T08:47:04.587" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first day of Winter (or winter solstice) in the northern hemisphere is usually December 21 or 22 every year. However, depending on the conditions, you may want to change over to Winter tires well before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the year, a slurry of other factors, and your location you may get snow and ice well before then. You should make an earnest attempt to have changed your tires at some point &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you begin to see snow and ice material forming in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to have a look &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikewinter.org/node/20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here for general tips on winter riding&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5287" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T13:52:14.853" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T13:52:14.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12683" CreationDate="2012-10-16T09:06:03.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fully understand your point about buying a rack and panniers set, possibly involving a new frame/bicycle, so the following is just a suggestion for the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the long run, it's no good for your back to carry heavy weights, especially when cycling as your back position is not optimal for carrying weights (depending also on how much do you lean on the handlebars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also (touch wood) a fall with a heavy backpack is in principle (more cyclist mass=less acceleration) better, but in practice much worse than a fall with panniers, when the extra weight rests on the bicycle. Also, a backpack won't allow you to roll on the ground, happily dissipating excessive momentum during a fall (this is solely based on my own experience though, somebody might want to ask a dedicated question on this topic :) ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T09:06:03.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10966" CreationDate="2012-10-16T10:44:03.273" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes I had a Selle Italia Flite Genuine Gel this summer and it was &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; stiff and rigid...it was wonderful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5287" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T10:44:03.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4526" CreationDate="2012-10-16T10:57:09.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is rather old but as I stumbled upon it, some thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot tell exactly but to me as a physicist this looks like the height curve has just a huge noise on it. From your profile I would guess that you have some programming skills so you could build a nice little tool that tries to flatten the curve a bit for you without the need to upload it to some website where you don't know what they are using your data. So here are some ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The most simple thing would be to just parse through your GPS track data and do a moving mean value calculation which replaces every data point by the mean of lets say the the data point and its neighbours or event next-nearest neighbours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A more sophisticated approach was to do some assumptions: the slope that you are able to ride on is somewhat limited and therefore only slopes smaller than a &lt;code&gt;max_slope&lt;/code&gt; should occur in your height profile. The fraction &lt;code&gt;(height_(i+1)-height_i)/(tracklength_(i+1)-tracklenght_i)&lt;/code&gt; between the data points &lt;code&gt;i&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;i+1&lt;/code&gt; is exactly the representation of this slope. So you could restrict the averaging to data points where a threshold slope is exceeded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on the distance between your data points it is quite improbable that you have one single &quot;dip&quot; or &quot;spike&quot; in between them as you normally don't ride mogul piste like ways with bumps of several meters height in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, this looks like a very nice programming project... if I just had some more time ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T10:57:09.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12689" CreationDate="2012-10-16T11:41:20.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it could be useful if I answer my own question.  I asked because I was looking for advice as to how to manage my sugars on long rides.  It is clear that there is not straight forward answer, but there are many different things to try that might help.  I will share some of my experience in the hope that other Diabetics might be able to benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual diabetic regimen is 4 units of NovoRapid (short term insulin) for each 15g of carbohydrate plus 1 unit for every 25mg/dl I am above 100mg/dl during the day.  In the evening I take 3 units per 15g and add 1 for every 30mg/dl above 150 (I aim to go to bed with blood sugar between 170 and 200 - this may seem high, but if I go to bed lower I will wake up in the middle of the night with a hypo).  I also take 30 units of Levemir (long term insulin) at the same time as I take my short term for my evening meal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last Hba1c was 7.0, I do not smoke (I did but haven't smoked heavily for years and at all in 2012),  I am 185cm (6ft 1&quot;) tall and 87.5KG (193 lbs) - so I could lose a little but I am certainly not unhealthy.  I drink more than I should but as I ride on saturdays my big drinking night was Friday so that has stopped. My regimen above has been worked out with my Doctor (specialist in diabetic medicine) and my dietician, who I see every 3 to 6 months where we tweak anything that needs tweaking.  I haven't seen them or done and Hba1c since I started seriously training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually go on a big bike ride early on a Saturday morning.  I get up around 6/630 and by the time I have got my stuff together and driven out of the city I am on my bike by about 745 - 8am.  Currently the morning temperatures are in the early to mid 20s rising towards 30 by 11am - 12pm.  The night before my ride I will make sure that I eat a decent and balanced meal with protein and carbohydrate,  I will only take 20 units of my long term insulin and I knock of 2-3 units of my short term insulin.  I will wake up with blood sugar around 200 -230.  I on my drive to where I cycle I will drink a cup of coffee with milk a bread roll with cheese or Peanut Butter and drink around half a liter (1 pint) of water, I also take  4 units of short term insulin.  I check my blood sugar again before my ride.  If for whatever reason it is lower than 200 I will have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.naturevalley.com/snack-bars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;granola bar&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take with me in my jersey pockets about 4 granola bars, 4 or 5 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powerbar.com/products/36/powerbar-energy-gel.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;energy gels&lt;/a&gt; (this is way more than I need but better to be safe), my Freestyle lite glucose monitor, money, ID and a phone (good for emergencies and using &lt;a href=&quot;http://strava.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt; to track my rides).  I have two bottles which total about 1.7l when full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rides are between 50 and 70KM which is anywhere between 2 hours (for a flat &lt;a href=&quot;http://app.strava.com/rides/23441387&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;60km&lt;/a&gt;) or 2.5 to 3.5 (for a hilly  &lt;a href=&quot;http://app.strava.com/rides/22748821&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;50&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://app.strava.com/rides/22362981&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;70KM&lt;/a&gt;).  I have routes that I repeat and but I change things around to keep it interesting.  I usually make sure I have something to eat along the way especially before I hit one of my 2nd cat climbs. On my flat circuit I will stop after the first loop after about and hour and check my sugar, have a drink catch my breath for about 5 mins before continuing.  On my hilly ride I will stop at the top of the 2nd cat climb and check my sugar.  If it is lower than 180 I will have a granola bar and a coffee as well as refill my water bottles.  If I am just descending and going back to the car then I won't eat anything unless I am lower than 150.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I get back to the car I rest and drink plenty of water.  I will check myself every half an hour afterwards to get an idea of which way my sugars are going.  Often my sugars go up drastically after a big ride I have often seen 300 and even once 400.  It is not easy for me to just take insulin at that point because it will drop very suddenly.  I will go home and test again before having an early lunch.  I find my body will come back in to line in the afternoon if I wait to take insulin with a meal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over all as a result of doing this training my sugars are better during the week and I have lost about 5kg so far.  My goals are better management of sugars before during and after my rides, I will be having a long chat with my Doctor and Dietician about this when I see them next to help with this and I am looking into getting a continuous &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abbottdiabetescare.co.uk/freestyle-navigator-support-august-2011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blood glucose monitor&lt;/a&gt;; I wish to lose more weight and to improve my endurance for longer rides and longer and harder climbs.  I would like to take part in some of the sportifs that are done in France that include some of the Tour de France cols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone who has commented or answered so far.  I appreciate all the advice, if you have constructive comments on what I have written here or you are diabetic too and need more advice please feel free to comment on this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T11:41:20.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12767" CreationDate="2012-10-16T12:14:01.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you need to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gmap-pedometer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gmap-pedometer.com&lt;/a&gt;, which allows you to either automatically or manually connect point on google maps to create your own routes regardless of road, trail, or anything. You can create an account and save your routes, export them to alternative gps devices, etc. It's very handy and there are folks that use it for mapping cyclocross races among other things. Here is an example map with manual route:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=5707827&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=5707827&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T12:14:01.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11124" CreationDate="2012-10-16T12:18:07.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air density alone has a fairly substantial impact on speed, if all else is equal (and if my calculations are correct!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the equation and from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingpowermodels.com/CyclingAerodynamics.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page on cycling aerodynamics&lt;/a&gt;, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=%28air+density+at+40%C2%B0C%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;air-density values from Wolfram Alpha&lt;/a&gt;, I came up with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;At 300 watts, at  0*C, will travel at 39.34 km/h&#xA;At 300 watts, at 10*C, will travel at 40.06 km/h&#xA;At 300 watts, at 20*C, will travel at 40.77 km/h&#xA;At 300 watts, at 30*C, will travel at 41.46 km/h&#xA;At 300 watts, at 40*C, will travel at 42.14 km/h&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's based on the &quot;in the drops&quot; drag-coefficient/frontal-area values, at a consistent level above sea (I think at sea-level, not certain)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;To travel at 13.8m/s in 0*C requires  478.45 watts&#xA;To travel at 13.8m/s in 10*C requires 461.43 watts&#xA;To travel at 13.8m/s in 20*C requires 445.52 watts&#xA;To travel at 13.8m/s in 30*C requires 430.72 watts&#xA;To travel at 13.8m/s in 40*C requires 417.03 watts&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(13.8m/s is about 50km/h, arbitrary number)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To &quot;show my working&quot;, here's the Python script I used to calculate the above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/usr/bin/env python2&#xA;&quot;&quot;&quot;Impact on air-density on cycling speeds&#xA;&#xA;Written in Python 2.7&#xA;&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def Cd(desc):&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;Coefficient of drag&#xA;&#xA;    Coefficient of drag is a dimensionless number that relates an&#xA;    objects drag force to its area and speed&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    values = {&#xA;        &quot;tops&quot;: 1.15, # Source: &quot;Bicycling Science&quot; (Wilson, 2004)&#xA;        &quot;hoods&quot;: 1.0, # Source: &quot;Bicycling Science&quot; (Wilson, 2004)&#xA;        &quot;drops&quot;: 0.88, # Source: &quot;The effect of crosswinds upon time trials&quot; (Kyle,1991)&#xA;        &quot;aerobars&quot;: 0.70, # Source: &quot;The effect of crosswinds upon time trials&quot; (Kyle,1991)&#xA;        }&#xA;    return values[desc]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def A(desc):&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;Frontal area is typically measured in metres squared. A&#xA;    typical cyclist presents a frontal area of 0.3 to 0.6 metres&#xA;    squared depending on position. Frontal areas of an average&#xA;    cyclist riding in different positions are as follows&#xA;&#xA;    http://www.cyclingpowermodels.com/CyclingAerodynamics.aspx&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    values = {'tops': 0.632, 'hoods': 0.40, 'drops': 0.32}&#xA;&#xA;    return values[desc]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def airdensity(temp):&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;Air density in kg/m3&#xA;    Values are at sea-level (I think..?)&#xA;&#xA;    Values from changing temperature on:&#xA;    http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=%28air+density+at+40%C2%B0C%29&#xA;&#xA;    Could calculate this:&#xA;    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Density_of_air&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    values = {&#xA;        0: 1.293,&#xA;        10: 1.247,&#xA;        20: 1.204,&#xA;        30: 1.164,&#xA;        40: 1.127,&#xA;        }&#xA;&#xA;    return values[temp]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;F = CdA p [v^2/2]&#xA;where:&#xA;F = Aerodynamic drag force in Newtons.&#xA;p = Air density in kg/m3 (typically 1.225kg in the &quot;standard atmosphere&quot; at sea level) &#xA;v = Velocity (metres/second). Let's say 10.28 which is 23mph&#xA;&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def required_wattage():&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;What wattage will the mathematicallytheoretical cyclist need to&#xA;    output to travel at a specific speed?&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    position = &quot;drops&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    for temp in (0, 10, 20, 30, 40):&#xA;        v = 13.8 # m/s&#xA;        F = Cd(position) * A(position) * airdensity(temp) * ((v**2)/2)&#xA;        watts = v*F&#xA;        print &quot;To travel at %sm/s in %s*C requires %.02f watts&quot; % (v, temp, watts)&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def speed_from_wattage():&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;Given a specific force output, how fast will a&#xA;    mathematicallytheoretical cyclist travel?&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    from math import sqrt&#xA;&#xA;    position = &quot;drops&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    for temp in (0, 10, 20, 30, 40):&#xA;        # Calculate some reasonable number for F... I think..? Made&#xA;        # sense when I wrote it, but now slightly confusing&#xA;        v = 13.8 # m/s&#xA;        watts = 300&#xA;        F = watts/v # because watts=v*F&#xA;&#xA;        # &quot;F = CdA p [v^2/2]&quot; solved for &quot;v&quot; with sympy:&#xA;        &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;        from sympy import symbols, solve, Eq&#xA;        F, Cd, A, airdensity, v = symbols(&quot;F Cd A airdensity v&quot;)&#xA;        solve(Eq(F, Cd * A * airdensity * (v**2/2)), v)&#xA;        &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;        v = sqrt(2) * sqrt(F / (Cd(position) * A(position) * airdensity(temp)))&#xA;        v_in_km_h = ((v * 60*60)/1000)&#xA;&#xA;        print &quot;At %s watts, at %d*C, will travel at %.02f km/h&quot; % (&#xA;            watts, temp, v_in_km_h)&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;if __name__ == '__main__':&#xA;    speed_from_wattage()&#xA;    required_wattage()&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T12:18:07.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12767" CreationDate="2012-10-16T13:01:31.527" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use &lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/&quot;&gt;ridewithgps&lt;/a&gt; to build your map. It allows you to drag waypoints off the main route and re-routes (can be used without auto routing as well if you prefer).  You'll have to pay if you want to print from their site.  However, you can print a cue sheet free or export the saved map in GPX or TCX format to print with another application or website that accepts these uploads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T13:01:31.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-16T13:26:25.720" Score="1" ViewCount="3688" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hunting the internet for months for an alternative of this bag (which unfortunately isn't available for purchase anymore): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alkr.com/urban-messenger.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.alkr.com/urban-messenger.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched on Amazon, Ebags, Google, Codura Corporate Website, but can't seem to find something satisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solid &quot;Codura&quot; fabric or comparable (no leather, black, low key design)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not a dedicated messenger bag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Structured, thoughtful compartment design (not one big compartment, fits 13&quot; laptop somehow, medium sized)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No floppy bottom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestion are welcomed and please don't recommend the common choices like Timbuk2 Messenger. Violates at least points 2), 4) ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5290" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T16:30:59.143" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T06:52:51.850" Title="Comparable Alternative to Messenger Bag" Tags="&lt;bags&gt;&lt;messenger-bags&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12779" CreationDate="2012-10-16T14:34:25.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many options for this I can't list them all, here are a few good ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://missionworkshop.com/products/bags/messenger/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; Mission Workshop&lt;/a&gt; has very refined and expensive bags, very full featured multi purpose bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rickshawbags.com/laptop-messenger-bags/laptop-bag.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rickshaw Bagworks&lt;/a&gt; has several commuter bags you may want to check out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chromebagsstore.com/bags/laptop-bags.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chrome Bags &lt;/a&gt; has lots of laptop bags in addition to their standard messenger bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T14:34:25.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12767" CreationDate="2012-10-16T15:14:37.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com/Course.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeRouteToaster&lt;/a&gt; can be a bit fiddly, but can do exactly this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncheck &quot;auto routing&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click &quot;course point&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add your main points (start and end, or multiple)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select one of the markers by clicking on it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the &quot;Insert Before&quot; or &quot;Insert After&quot; button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click to add points (you can change to &quot;track points&quot; and they have more subtle markers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;Summary&quot; tab you can get distance/elevation info, and export to various files (gpx/tcx)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T15:14:37.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12783" CreationDate="2012-10-16T15:37:44.200" Score="13" ViewCount="1535" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems silly to say I don't know how to breathe, but I don't.  When doing weights, I know you exhale when you do the work part of the rep.  In Yoga similarly breathe out on the stretch.  Rock climbing too, when you pull yourself up breathe out.  The list goes on.  What on earth do I do for cycling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it different for riding on flats or going up hill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am talking here about when a reasonable amount of effort is being put in, not necessarily racing or time trial but not exactly bumbling along either.  I remember when I was younger and did Cross country running at school we were taught to do two short breaths in and two out.  Does that apply here or is there something else.  I saw watching time trials no TV that some of the riders seem to ride with their mouth wide open.  I tried this and found that on hot dry days it really hurt my throat and lungs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T17:46:48.387" Title="Effective breathing for efficient cycling" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12782" CreationDate="2012-10-16T16:07:53.937" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are going to be dozens of opinions on this, so keep in mind that I'm only talking in generalities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get too caught up on what type of terrain you're on, flat, uphill, downhill, etc. As long as you're exerting yourself on your bike, try to take deep, steady breaths, breaths that seem to go clear to your stomach. Try to focus on keeping your breath steady whenever you can. Try a few different rhythms and see if you can pick one that comes most naturally. Even better, see if you can find a riding buddy so that you two can exchange notes and learn from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are people who make their career out of training people how to breathe, so, this is just to get you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T16:07:53.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12767" CreationDate="2012-10-16T17:44:47.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correct me if I'm wrong, but Google Maps ALREADY allows for point insertion, by means of &quot;breaking&quot; one segment in two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using the navigation directions, click the &quot;My places&quot; button in the sidebar, then &quot;Create Map&quot;. The drawing tools appear on the map:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eP6ta.png&quot; alt=&quot;Google Map drawing tools&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While editing a path, if you hover over a segment, the midpoints of each segment appear as dim knots. If you click and drag, they become &quot;actual&quot; node points that can be dreagged around. Besides that, each of both newborn segments now show their midpoint, allowing for further breakdown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6uPv5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, one MAJOR problem of Google Maps is that it doesn't allow (as far as I know) for connecting two separate paths into a single one (that can be done only by manually editing KML, very cumbersome).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, if you have interest, an excelent track editor is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpstm.com/index.php?lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GPSTrackmaker&lt;/a&gt;, the non-PRO version is free, doesn't expire and is very powerful and robust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="4353" LastEditDate="2012-10-17T14:01:56.293" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T14:01:56.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12782" CreationDate="2012-10-16T18:01:18.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For novice riders I've proposed that you target your cadence to be about twice your respiration rate.  This is more to encourage higher cadence, without being too &quot;clinical&quot; about specific RPM numbers, but it also discourages rapid, shallow breathing.  (And rapid breathing actually reduces your ability to absorb oxygen.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most forms of cycling involve exercise over a prolonged period -- tens of minutes or even tens of hours -- whereas most other sports, even when they are stretched over a period of a few hours, involve mostly brief spurts of exercise.  Endurance is what counts in cycling, not (for the most part) peak output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, with sports of extreme short-term exertion such as weightlifting a big concern with breathing is to avoid &quot;weight-lifter's hypertension&quot; -- the increase in blood pressure that occurs if you hold your breath while lifting.  With cycling the body is in more of a &quot;steady state&quot; with exertion (except maybe if you're climbing a steep hill with an extremely low cadence), so weight-lifter's hypertension is not a major concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T18:01:18.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4806" CreationDate="2012-10-16T18:31:25.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Choose your airline carefully.  Fly British Airways (or Air France, apparently).  Bicycle Touring Pro has &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletouringpro.com/blog/major-airline-policies-and-prices-for-flying-with-a-bicycle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a good page with major airline policies laid out&lt;/a&gt;.  It is from 2008, so perhaps a bit out of date, but a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This summer (2012) my wife and I flew with our bicycles from San Francisco to Dublin, &lt;a href=&quot;http://xenotropic.net/europe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rode around Europe for the summer&lt;/a&gt;, and flew back from Copenhagen to SF.  We used British Airways, and they were complete rock stars about it.  Free, no hassles.  My bike has Ritchey Breakaway couplers in it, similar to (but better than, IMHO) S&amp;amp;S couplers.  But I just left it together because it was more of a hassle to have to deal with the Ritchey case at our destination and the additional disassembly/reassembly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Dublin, we put our bikes together in the airport, discarded the boxes there, and rode off on our trip.  We  mailed the packing material -- pipe insulation, dummy axles -- to a friend in Copenhagen, which just cost 10 euros or something.  If you do this, however, make sure you let your friends know it is coming.  We didn't, and our friends (my wife's relatives actually) almost threw it out because they thought it was a joke, or that some &quot;actual&quot; item we were mailing was stolen in the mails.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the trip, in Copenhagen, we just took our bikes to a bike shop near the airport to have them pack them.  It cost $60 per bike or so, but it was easier than schlepping a box on the metro twice (once from the shop, again to the airport), and we had another day to be tourists in Copenhagen.  The bike shop was 2 miles from the airport and drove our bikes there as part of the deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid having to pay for a second checked bag -- BA only allows one checked &quot;bag&quot; per person, which was the bikes -- we stuffed  panniers and other gear into the boxes to the limit (23 kilos, I think), and each took a pannier as a carryon.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T18:31:25.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10847" CreationDate="2012-10-16T18:49:51.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is the n'lock: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nlock.ch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nlock&lt;/a&gt;. Which appears to be in production and come in a variety of sizes to fit different bars.  I have no actual experience with them but it looks like it meets the requirements you set out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5282" LastEditorUserId="4548" LastEditDate="2012-10-17T15:27:00.440" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T15:27:00.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2012-10-16T19:09:11.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to pick one item on the basis of its non-obviousness for bike touring utilty, I would pick the Amazon Kindle.  My wife and I really enjoyed having them when &lt;a href=&quot;http://xenotropic.net/europe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on a bike tour for this summer in Europe&lt;/a&gt; for two months.  The basic Kindle weighs less than six ounces and can hold a zillion books and also pdfs.  We used them for guidebooks, for checking out library books from home while away, for translation dictionaries, for copies of flight and ferry itineraries and our passports.  Most out-of-copyright classics are free, and since I had more time to read while touring, I ended up reading old Sherlock Holmes and the original Dracula.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife is kind of a luddite, but even she was a Kindle convert by the end of the trip.  Plus since there were two of us we had them on the same account, so we  could share books -- i.e., we could both be reading the guidebook at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're also welcome to take a gander at &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AoYFsjWGAqHNdGdfRFZkdHp3TDMzOWl6TXJLS1hiOWc#gid=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;our packing list&lt;/a&gt; on Google Docs to see if there is anything you are missing.  Generally, less is more -- every ounce you don't bring is that much more strength you have to ride further and faster (or ride the same distance and speed more easily).  &lt;a href=&quot;http://ultralightcycling.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This guy&lt;/a&gt; was an inspiration to us, although we're not quite as extremist about each gram as he is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T19:09:11.720" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-10-16T19:09:11.720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2012-10-16T19:13:03.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having extra &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/813836/rei-34-inch-webbing-straps-with-side-release-buckle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3/4&quot; webbing straps&lt;/a&gt; is also really nice.  For holding stuff onto your racks, or for &lt;a href=&quot;http://xenotropic.net/image.php?id=920&amp;amp;size=med&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fixing your rack&lt;/a&gt;, or as a belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T19:13:03.713" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-10-16T19:13:03.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2939" CreationDate="2012-10-16T20:17:20.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I spent &lt;a href=&quot;http://xenotropic.net/europe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;two months of summer 2012 biking around Europe&lt;/a&gt;.  So this answer is necessarily biased towards temperate-to-warm region where it rains.  There are a several places where I've made brand references; I'm not associated with any of these companies, but some items were just so good that they are worth mentioning specifically.  This is what I brought: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A. On-bike clothes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my main priorities was to be covered from the sun as much as possible, so I would have to wear as little sunscreen as possible -- it gets sticky after a day of riding, and possibly toxic (particularly if you're putting it on every single day all over).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(1) Mid-calf polyester pants&lt;/strong&gt; (&quot;capris&quot;).  I took a pair of Sickle Crux climbing pants and cut them mid-calf to have maximum sun protection.  They're made out of really comfortable and slick nylon that lasts a long time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(2) White long sleeve polyester shirt.&lt;/strong&gt;  I used the Patagonia Forerunner shirt (which sadly no longer comes in white), and it was excellent.  I had another similar shirt on this trip but would bring two Forerunners next time since they are lighter weight but still block the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(3) Bandanna.&lt;/strong&gt;  Makes me look like I am German, but it keeps the back of my neck from getting burned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(4) Socks.&lt;/strong&gt;  I hate wearing dirty socks.  While I'm normally a minimalist, I brought about four pairs of socks and didn't regret it.  Thin, biking-specific socks -- Pearl Izumi, Sock Guy.  Also polyester for quick drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(5) Yellow biking jacket.&lt;/strong&gt;  My wife and I both have Pearl Izumi's yellow biking jackets and love them.  Well ventilated, well made.  I've had mine for seven years now I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(6) Really Comfortable Shoes.&lt;/strong&gt;  Again Pearl Izumi here, with their X-Alp shoes, which worked as both on- and off-bike shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(7) Bike gloves.&lt;/strong&gt; Because you don't want to rip up your hands if you crash.  Also for sun protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it.  One item that is missing that most people would have on this list, and before this trip I would have thought would be crazy to omit, is bike shorts.  But after a few days in warm weather, on long biking days with breaks in the middle, I found that I valued ventilation over padding (by a long shot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B. Raingear&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: pack this on the top of your pannier, 'cos it is the one set of stuff you will want in a rush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(1) Lightweight Rain Jacket and Pants.&lt;/strong&gt;  Gore-tex or other waterproof-breathable equivalent.  My personal pick is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/search?query=marmot%20precip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marmot Precip&lt;/a&gt;, since it is cheaper but solidly made.  I've gotten really rained on a few times in it and had no problems.  The rain jacket seems redundant with the yellow biking jacket, above, but raingear just doesn't breathe that well, making it unpleasant when raining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(2) Shoe covers.&lt;/strong&gt;  Gore-tex or other waterproof breathable.  I spent a long while researching this -- it seems like no shoe cover is perfect -- and went with the Gore Bike Wear &quot;Race Power&quot; ones.  More expensive, but they worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to bring a leg tie for when you're wearing rain pants.  I use mine to hold my rolled-up rain pants so they are always together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C. Off-bike Clothes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought one other set of off-bike clothes, a pair of nylon travel pants and a loose-fitting loose-woven cotton long-sleeve shirt (actually I brought two, but if I were going again, I'd only bring one).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flip-flops (Chaco Flips . . . so comfortable. I lost them along the way and paid way too much for a replacement pair in Switzerland).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife said her favorite piece of off-bike clothing was a stretch cotton black skirt, which was easy to put on over bike shorts in the middle of the day (for lunch or shopping) to look more normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D. Warm Clothes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) A pair of polyester long underwear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Patagonia down jacket (or &quot;down sweater&quot; as they call it).  This is, I think, my favorite article of clothing.  Super-light, super warm.  Doubles as a pillow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) Arm warmers.  My wife also brought leg warmers since she gets cold.  Merino wool is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Washing and drying&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of washing and drying, we just brought a baggie of detergent, or I'd often just use soap.  When we arrived wherever we were staying (campgrounds, hotels, B&amp;amp;Bs), we washed it pretty soon after arriving, just making that part of daily ritual like brushing your teeth or showering.  Often I'd just bring clothes into the shower and wash them there.  Usually things dried out by morning.  If they didn't we'd either strap them on to the outside of our bags, or if they were only damp, just wear them.  Polyester dries out pretty fast, and you warm up while riding, which speeds it along.  About every 7-10 days we'd find a laundromat (or use friends' washing machines when we stayed with them) on a rest day and wash our clothes there to get them all thoroughly clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T20:17:20.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10847" CreationDate="2012-10-16T20:29:51.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have quick release wheels you could remove your front wheel in order to turn the handlebars 90 degrees.  You could also get something like this&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002K2F876&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quick release mount&lt;/a&gt; to make your fork a little more stable.  Hang the wheel on the wall, or put it anywhere you have room.  I'd rather not have a quick release mechanism on my headset.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T20:29:51.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2940" CreationDate="2012-10-16T20:39:01.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decathlon.co.uk/map-holder-id_2404604.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one of these&lt;/a&gt; from Decathlon.  Not sure if they ship to the US, but it works great (although from the one review looks like the quality has dropped).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lt0PP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Decathlon Bike Map Holder&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For smaller maps or cue sheets, I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001E1Y5O6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;velcro cable tie&lt;/a&gt; and a binder clip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xdMYA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;McGyver cue sheet holder&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastEditorUserId="2611" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T20:13:05.830" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T20:13:05.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8773" CreationDate="2012-10-16T20:48:51.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main concern with thinner tires and carrying a load is getting pinch flats when you hit a bump.  I ran 27 mm tires (Schwalbe Marathon Pluses, nice tires) touring around Europe this summer with about 30lbs of stuff, for about 2200km.  Generally they were good, but I had to keep the tire pressure high (100 PSI or 7 bar) or else the tire would compress on bumps or rocks and I'd get a pinch flat.  Either get wider tires and/or bring a high-pressure pump is the solution, and using a standing floor pump (most bike shops will let you use theirs for free) whenever you have a chance after getting a flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastEditorUserId="2611" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T21:25:13.007" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T21:25:13.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2986" CreationDate="2012-10-16T22:04:03.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode &lt;a href=&quot;http://xenotropic.net/europe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2200km this summer&lt;/a&gt; using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.catalog&amp;amp;CategoryID=1&amp;amp;ProductID=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Revelate Designs Tangle Bag&lt;/a&gt; with a Camelbak water bladder (mine was 3L, but the Tangle Bag could hold at least another liter if you could find a larger bladder).  Worked great.  No switching bottles, just one thing to fill up, less distance to reach to get water, and water stays cooler longer.  If you were riding across a desert or something you could carry water bottles in cages below it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.catalog&amp;amp;CategoryID=2&amp;amp;ProductID=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;other Revelate bag in front&lt;/a&gt; (the &quot;Gas Tank&quot;), there is a spot between the front bag and the stem to stick the end of the Camelbak hose; the stem has a notch, between the steerer-clamp bolts, that helps hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one minor downer to the Revelate bags is that, while they are mostly water-resistant, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm/FAQS/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;they aren't water-&lt;em&gt;proof&lt;/em&gt; like an Ortlieb pannier would be&lt;/a&gt;.  The Tangle Bag in particular got significant water into it when riding in the rain for a while, I think because of the longer zipper and its orientation.  Otherwise, amazing product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aebike.com/Elite-VIP-Universal-Cage-Mount-22-50mm_p_30962.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fork-mounted bottle cages&lt;/a&gt; might be an option, but I haven't used them myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MKkON.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Camelbak in Revelate Designs Tangle Bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T22:04:03.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11314" CreationDate="2012-10-16T23:29:17.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the fact that you say &quot;Something seems slightly loose if I twist on the bar&quot;, there is also some chance that you have mismatched handlebar and stem.  There are 25.4mm and 26.0mm clamp area diameters for both handlebars and stems, so you might have a 25.4mm bar in a 26.0 stem, which might make it creaky and loose.  You could try removing the handlebar and sticking a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb91.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nitto&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-261994.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beer can shim&lt;/a&gt; around the clamping area of the bar and remounting it.  If you can't fit the bar into the stem's clamp with the shim, then this isn't the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T23:29:17.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-16T23:52:49.420" Score="0" ViewCount="33057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mongoose XR-150. Just brought it from Craigslist a month ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suddenly while biking today, the rear wheel got jammed. It just stopped moving, however hard I tried to pedal. Immediately after this, when I tried pedalling, the pedal moves but none of the wheels move with it. There's a weird tension on the pedals though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really like to get this fixed as cheaply as possible. Does anyone have any ideas/advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5294" LastEditorUserId="4548" LastEditDate="2012-10-17T15:27:09.190" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T00:14:48.790" Title="Rear wheel stuck (not moving)" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2894" CreationDate="2012-10-17T00:01:01.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Peanut M&amp;amp;Ms.  Mixture of carbs and fat, a bit of protein and caffeine, cheap and readily available, easy to eat out of the bag, and delicious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T00:01:01.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3230" CreationDate="2012-10-17T00:49:41.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After about 15 years of accident-free riding, I recently broke my scaphoid (a wrist bone, on the thumb side) while trying to take off my jacket while riding, which obviously would have been best prevented by stopping and then taking off the jacket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious what else can be done to prevent similar fractures, though, and two items of interest I've found are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) if you have to put your hand out, slap the ground, which is often taught in martial arts.  That distributes the impact across your hand, so that all the force doesn't go up into your wrist and arm.  Like Duncan, though, I don't recall having any time to react at all so I'm not sure how much that would have helped.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.planet-knox.com/hand-armour/off-roadmtb-gloves/146/oren-mtb-glove-black/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these gloves by Knox&lt;/a&gt; that are designed with a &quot;scaphoid protection system&quot;.  They have a hard plastic pad near the base, so that the part of your hand that you reach out with instinctively -- the base of the palm -- slides on the ground, reducing the impact.  Kinda pricey though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But agreed that situational alertness and caution are better than any other technique.  I'll be stopping from now on for any clothing changes I need to make while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T00:49:41.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12804" CreationDate="2012-10-17T02:59:14.950" Score="1" ViewCount="1148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a long wheelbase recumbent built by Sun Bicycles.  There are some complications with finding out what kinds of components went into the interior of the bike.  Brakes and shifters have their brands labelled proudly, but the rest, not so much.  And the manual that came with the bike doesn't mention anything about advanced maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first major bike maintenance project, going beyond my normal stuff of cleaning and oiling the chain or replacing the brake pads.  The entire drivetrain has about 5000 miles on it and needs an overhaul.  I can feel a lot of drag in both the front and rear axles.  Not grinding drag, but just sluggishness in turning about the axle.  So, I was taking them apart to figure out what components need replacing, and in both cases I ran into basically the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RZ86k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front axle, starting disassembly&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've started to take off the lock ring here on the front hub.  That entire conical shape actually appears to be the front lock ring.  I can take it completely off, but once done, I have a lock ring on the opposite side, the axle sticking through the entire bike, and no indication that any part of it wants to come out.  So, problem the first... how do I get the rest of the axle to slide out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AyDoV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear freehub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the opposite side, I just have an axle sticking out.  On this side, I have a freehub and an axle with a lock ring, and no clue how to get the lock ring loose so that I can pull the axle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing?  This should be relatively easy, but I've been banging my head against it for a couple of hours and making no headway at all.  My bike shop was closed today and is closed tomorrow, so I'll call them on Thursday if I'm still having trouble.  But, I wanted to ask here, first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3913" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T12:36:27.813" Title="How do I take apart the axle and freehub on this bike" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12803" CreationDate="2012-10-17T03:25:19.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They both look pretty standard to me. Normally you remove the lock nut and cones from one side. The bearings should be visible and fall out (careful to catch them all.). The axle should then just push through to the other side. If you can see the bearings (or they fell out), a &lt;strong&gt;gentle&lt;/strong&gt; tap, with a light hammer may be needed (although i cannot imagine why) to dislodge the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the rear wheel, remove the lock ring and cone from the left side (non-drive) and push the axle through (again, watch the bearings). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T03:25:19.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12797" CreationDate="2012-10-17T03:33:39.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a guess, you suffered chain suck where the chain got stuck between the smaller chain-ring and the frame, or you dropped the chain between the rear cassette and spokes. The forces you then used have possibly been more than the QR skewers could handle and the rear wheel slipped in its mount. The weird force is the tire rubbing the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My real concern is the &quot;However hard I tried.....&quot; - you may have done significant damage to drive train components. Never put pressure on a jammed drive train - a modern bike is actually a very highly tuned, lightweight and fragile piece of machinery. Forces it is not designed to take will break it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not say how you went from jammed and not moving to moving and not driving - was there a bang/crack/snap involved?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things that can be wrong, and based on what you said, you probably now have more than one fault.  You need to isolate parts to find out what it is. Most of the of these checks can be done almost instantly without removing anything.  The chain will get in the way - you won't need to remove it though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the wheel from the bike and check the freewheel. It should be&#xA;moving freely in one direction and locked up in the other&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the rear derailleur  - is the chain running freely though it.&#xA;If not, check the chain line and make sure the small sprockets are&#xA;free spinning. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the chain line though the front end. Is the chain clear of the&#xA;derailleur and sitting properly on the chain ring. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spin the pedals and check the bottom bracket is not jammed up&#xA;somehow. check the pedals and cranks are properly aligned and&#xA;attached to the bottom bracket.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2012-10-17T03:45:58.167" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T03:45:58.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12806" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-17T10:21:19.010" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-17T10:21:19.010" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T10:21:19.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12807" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-17T10:21:19.010" Score="0" Body="A single-speed bicycle is a type of bicycle with a single gear ratio. These bicycles are without derailleur gears, hub gearing or other methods for varying the gear ratio of the bicycle." OwnerUserId="4620" LastEditorUserId="4620" LastEditDate="2012-10-17T14:37:43.800" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T14:37:43.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12797" CreationDate="2012-10-17T12:07:36.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely, from your description, the chain has jumped off a sprocket on one end or the other.  This would normally suggest a misadjusted derailer, but can occur on older bikes because one of the chainrings is slightly bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other likely cause is that the rear axle has come loose and the wheel is cocked and is rubbing against the frame.  But then the pedal would not move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are mechanical failures that can occur in the bottom bracket or rear axle, but they rarely occur catastrophically -- you usually get considerable grinding first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if the chain is jammed somewhere you can do serious damage to stuff by attempting to force it.  For instance, if it's jumped off the rear large cog and is stuck between cog and spokes you can do serious damage to the spokes (if there's no spoke shield).  If the chain is jammed between the front sprockets you can seriously damage both chain and sprockets by attempting to force.  Forcing the chain in such situations hardly ever improves things -- it almost always makes things worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T12:07:36.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12803" CreationDate="2012-10-17T12:36:27.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First things first, make sure you have the specific 'cone' spanners for the locknuts (these are just thin, 2-3mm thick, spanners). They're probably 14/16mm on the front and 15/17mm on the rear. This is one of many jobs that you'll need specific high quality tools for :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, from the look of it the front cones have rubber dust seals over them, these can just pull off to reveal the locknut/cone. You only have to undo one side to reveal the bearings on both sides as the axel will slide out. For the rear bearings, just undo the locknut/cone from the non-casette side. I expect there will be another dust seal on that side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's many tutorials online about how to properly tighten the cones/locknuts back up. But let me warn you: it's a skill and will probably take you more than 10 attempts to get right (just persevere!) You want a little drag and very minimal play (the quick release will remove a tiny bit of play when tightened).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5171" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T12:36:27.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-17T12:41:47.213" Score="-5" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best up to now high end all-mountain full suspension design? By &quot;best&quot; I mean a design that balances pedaling efficiency, strength/durability, and (lateral) stiffness and weight as best as possible. What should I look for when trying to get such a bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5291" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-10-18T01:45:13.673" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T17:04:28.720" Title="Optimal full-suspension design for mountain bikes?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-10-18T15:04:20.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12814" CreationDate="2012-10-17T12:48:54.913" Score="4" ViewCount="12484" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the handle post hinge on my Dahon Speed D7 now requires attention much more often than it used before. Unlike main frame hinge which remains tight for long after adjustment, this one now requires tightening at least once week, otherwise handle post becomes shaky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red arrow on the image below shows the 10mm nut I have to tighten to move that metal &quot;foot&quot; above a bit closer to the edge to the to secure the handle post when bike is unfolded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JP5No.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hinge close-up&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(don't know if I managed to explain the process clearly enough, but Dahon bike owners should get the idea, I believe)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an old bike, but until last 4 or 5 months I only had to tighten that nut once a month or even less often. Now it's much worse and getting worse with time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have marked one of nut's sides to determine if the metal &quot;foot&quot; started to wear out quickly or the nut is somehow loosened moving down the screw. Turned out it is, something forces the nut to rotate at 60 deg or so every week, so I'm not actually tightening it but returning it where it belongs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest I don't understand the mechanics of this process (what makes it to unscrew) and wonder if this is something I can fix or I'll need a new handle post soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3125" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T22:29:17.733" Title="Dahon handle post hinge loosens too quickly" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3230" CreationDate="2012-10-17T13:36:13.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I have some experience(very limited) in martial arts. Just several sessions of falling with rolling over the shoulder. Also keeping a guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I always carry a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When shit hits the fan, I try to detach myself from the bike (all of my damaging falls were due to getting stuck with the frame or the handlebars). Then I assume a fetus position, with the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;hands over my head, forearms protecting the face&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (I haven't had a helmet, but then - I ride cross-country), navigate my body weight to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;hit the ground backpack-first&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and then roll, avoiding hitting the ground with elbows(and breaking them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this technique, I have ruined several backpacks, but have walked away from flying several meters and then hitting the stones. I never learned how to jump and run off the fall, however :( &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ADDED:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, while being aware of your surroundings, in the city it is essential to be aware where the sidewalk is. Falling on the street isn't dangerous, it's the speeding car behind that can be fatal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ADDED2:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So if you have the martial arts experience and she does not, just teach her! Forward and backwards roll, over left or right shoulder. Over level grassy field should take no more than several tens of hours! And being able to run, then jump face-down, then stand up unharmed is such a confidence builder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-11-15T16:12:34.873" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T16:12:34.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12812" CreationDate="2012-10-17T15:10:16.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with any critical fastener on a bike, the vibration and flexing forces from riding will eventually work threaded parts loose. Normally this is the sort of thing that occurs over a few months--not every week. Fortunately, there are a few options that are applicable to this and any other situation where threads work themselves loose. (Before you do anything, though, make sure that the rest of your steering components are safely adjusted.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest thing would be to buy a tube of Loctite (or comparable) thread locking compound. It is cheap and easy to find. You'll want to get a formula that isn't permanent so that you can make adjustments down the road. Back the nut off until you see some threads and add one or two drops those threads. Adjust the tension where it needs to be and let it sit for a little while. (Loctite is safe for threads mostly everywhere on a bike!) In less critical applications, beeswax is a great natural compound for securing threads and preventing corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second option would be to replace your 10mm nut with a lock nut. These are nuts with a nylon (or similar) insert in the aft part of the threads which prevents it from working loose. Similarly, you could procure a lock washer which will prevent the nut from backing out when tightened properly. (It doesn't look like you have enough space for it, but a second nut behind your primary nut (called a jam nut) will keep the adjustment stable as well. Jam nuts are typically narrower than a standard nut so they use less threaded area.) Any well-stocked hardware store will have suitable metric hardware. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If those options fail you, you may need to take more permanent action. Either chemically (with a permanent thread locking solution), or mechanically by installing a castle nut. A castle nut has notches along one side to mesh with wire or a cotter pin that is drilled through the threaded bolt. The wire prevents the nut from backing off, but the downside is that this requires drilling a tiny hole straight through the bolt (which would require you use a drill press and lots of diligence). I really don't think you'll have to resort to this last option, but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, continue to be vigilant in inspecting those parts for wear and adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T15:10:16.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36456" CreationDate="2012-10-17T18:46:00.603" Score="7" ViewCount="22382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I LOVE my Strida, but have noticed that the only way to transport kids with it is in a trailer, which seems to defeat the purpose of a compact bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a crazy expensive Brompton bar attachment that becomes an extra kid seat in front of your seat (Here's a thorough review of it: &lt;a href=&quot;http://documentally.com/2011/08/20/a-child-seat-for-a-brompton-folding-bike-review/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://documentally.com/2011/08/20/a-child-seat-for-a-brompton-folding-bike-review/&lt;/a&gt;) but it doesn't seem to be available any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other options that combine any folding bike with a child seat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2489" LastEditorUserId="2489" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T12:47:16.297" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T00:52:28.427" Title="Any way to transport kids on a folding bike?" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;children&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;&lt;brompton&gt;&lt;kids&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12816" CreationDate="2012-10-17T21:06:44.623" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, this should NOT be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are very versatile, and one can not only use a single all-purpose bike for many purposes, but also to have/design specialty bikes, as it is the case of a Strida. And, by the way, is the case with a lot of child-carrying specific bikes and/or equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, as it seems to me, a Strida is a SPECIALTY BIKE NOT SUITABLE TO CARRY CHILDREN! It has its purpose (portability and compactness), and this purpose is not compatible with child-carrying, unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to increase your fleet, just in case you really WANT to carry your child on a bicycle, which by the way is an EXCELENT EXPERIENCE with no age limit! (only size/weight limit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, and I didn't mean to be rude or disappointing, but concerned with the child's comfort and safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(by the way, transporting kids ALWAYS defeats the purpose of compactness, whatever &quot;compactness&quot; might mean...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T21:06:44.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12811" CreationDate="2012-10-18T01:25:23.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only is the answer subjective - the &quot;Best&quot; will be different for each rider based on things such as budget, rider weight and fitness and skills, riders tolerance for bumps, riding style (speed, need for control etc), riding terrain, location, brand whoring, day of week, and possibly religion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However based on you questions criteria, If you must have an answer, I have to go with @GordonM &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : ........&#xA;Note: This question addresses the original post, which has subsequently been edited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2012-10-18T03:15:43.207" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T03:15:43.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2012-10-18T03:05:48.560" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to momentum, people in bicycle collisions tend to fall forward in the direction they were moving.  Therefore, they often land on their faces, which are entirely unprotected by standard bicycle helmets.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I speak from experience, having just lost all of my top front teeth.  My surgeon says this is incredibly common among urban bike commuters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no demand for full face helmets for cyclists because people are socialized to think that (1) they're overkill and (2) they look silly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sure wish I was wearing a full-face helmet when I crashed.  And no preaching about safe riding!  I am a strong city rider, who errs on the side of caution when it comes to safety.  Collisions do happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5301" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T12:57:10.127" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T12:57:10.127" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12811" CreationDate="2012-10-18T05:04:11.797" Score="-2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legs &amp;amp; Hands&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are by far the &lt;strong&gt;BEST&lt;/strong&gt; suspension you can have in any ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legs: Fix yourself on the bikes, make a firm grip or the pedals (or use SPD :P), slightly bend it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hands: Good grip with elbows pointing out and good balance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats it!!! Best suspension is now with you, the one which you can fully customize and control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not saying suspension is not needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having ridden no-suspension, front-suspension and full-suspension bikes I can definitely say that suspension is definitely a very effective addition to your bike, but there cannot ever be a best suspension on any ride I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good suspension with good technology will perform better, but if you know how to use it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine yourself dodging a pit sideways, if you use your suspension correctly it will give you good height, but slightly over and under use and your front wheel will skid on the lift or on the land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;strong&gt;suggestion&lt;/strong&gt; would be don't buy a full suspension &lt;strong&gt;at first&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;it will give far too much comfort with &lt;strong&gt;no skill&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;). A good bike with lockable front suspension should be good enough to start. Learn to use you legs on bumps, and pits, then try locking your front suspension and learn to use your hands as suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remember:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; A smooth sea never made a skillful sailor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T17:04:28.720" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12782" CreationDate="2012-10-18T11:29:46.113" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the flat and downhill, I just breathe normally. Going up steep hills, I find it helpfull to exhale in the cadence rythm, or even on each pedal stroke (twice cadence). By the time I get to this stage, the cadence has dropped so it is important to keep breathing regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T11:29:46.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12620" CreationDate="2012-10-18T16:16:04.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few different reasons for this. Without knowing the exact method of cable routing for your brifters (yeah, I went there) then the instructions could me re-wrapping the bars or fishing cables out of your frame, but i'll order them in least amount of work first (and re-suggest above already failed instructions for reference)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure it is actually the brifters not malfunctioning and not the derailleur getting caught on something or chain having a stiff link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1. Cleaning the shifter while on the bike&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best method of going this is properly giving the insides a de-grease and re-grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some water soluble de-greaser in a spray can. Gain access to the mechanism by going from underneath or pressing the brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray all up inside the shifters, break down the grease and crap stuck to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flush out the inside with water. A jet-wash is probably too powerful for this, it can bend metal, but a hose with a directional powerful spray will probably work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry the insides. Use an air compressor, or what WD-40 was intended for (water displacement!) and wait for it to properly dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray in a medium heavy grease, white lithium grease is available in a can. Spray a little in and move/shift a few times, then a little more. Don't overpack it, but you want a reasonable amount.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2. Replacing gear cable inners&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes water and other debris can get into the inside of the cable, or the wires can fray, causing drag or slip from not properly engaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift into 11th gear (assuming regular derailure pull) so the cable is slack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the access caps for the cable, losen the pinch bolt on the derailleur and pull the cable all the way out through the brifter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace with a good quality inner cable. Standard is 4mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3. Replacing gear cable outers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inner coating of the outer cables can wear away and make shifting slugish or stick. Once this happens they can catastrophically fail and no shifting is possible.&#xA; - After removing the inner cable (above)&#xA; - Replace the outer cables (you can reuse the ferrules if they're not damaged) by cutting them to the same length with as old a dremel or proper cable cutter so you don't crush the ends.&#xA; - Re-insert inners as above&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;4. Removing brifters for proper cleaning/disassembly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like you've ruled out everything else and you need to get aggressive on these before you bin them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get them off your bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soak the whole thing in white/mineral spirits for a while. Give them an agitate them and see how much dirt/grease comes out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brifters are super-hard to disassemble and there aren't normally guides from the manufacturer; they expect you to buy new ones. If you do attempt it: take loads of pictures, keep parts/springs grouped together and be prepared to have to re-make any small parts that have failed, it's doubtful you'll be able to get them from the manufacturer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Final thoughts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got pretty in-depth here, but I think I've written down some of my experiences for cleaning. I've never taken apart a brifter before more than replacing a front-cap so I can't say if that's likely to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go ahead with any of it, let us know which methods were more effective for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5171" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T16:16:04.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10966" CreationDate="2012-10-18T16:16:49.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is approximately 5mm of gel padding, over a reasonably flexible base on the Flite Gel. I would not consider it an especially rigid saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T16:16:49.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12761" CreationDate="2012-10-18T16:48:43.410" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dry and cool place is the way to go. But also play attention to other items stored near the tubes. Do not store them near paint or solvent containers. Many chemical products can damage tubes, even just the vapours. Anything like gasoline or other fuels should be avoided. They chemically degrade rubber and can easily render them useless. Gasoline vapour for example, over a year can turn a tube into a black paste stain...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other factors that affect rubber on the long term are UV light and oxigen or ozone. Thus you should also avoid storing them exposed to direct or strong sunlight. UV light degrades rubber so it becomes dull looking and less flexible. When it happens to a tube, it does't show until you inflate them, and it looks as cracked or notoriously porous surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also helps to store them in a somewhat thick plastic bag and tuck them tight (Ziploc type would be overkill there) specially if they come packaged in plain cardboard boxes. Some high powered electric motors, generators or dynamos produce sparks in their brush and collector parts (i.e. electrical connection between moving parts). These sparks are known to produce ozone, so, if by any chance you have such equipment, do not store the tubes near it. (High speed lathe, electric grinders, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I have had sucess storing used tubes for very long periods (some more than 3 years) by puting them in a thick plastic bag in my closet. I usually apply talcum between the tire and the tube, so these tubes where stored all covered with talcum. I think it helps because previous attempts, I washed the tubes before storing, and they ended stuck with each other and where damaged when I tried to separate them; they where otherwise in similar conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in my tropical country, temperatures are almost all year between 15 and 30 ºC (60-87 ºF) so I have no clue on extreme temperature effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2018-06-30T15:01:41.403" LastActivityDate="2018-06-30T15:01:41.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1055" CreationDate="2012-10-18T19:08:08.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Virginia's law,&lt;/strong&gt; mentioned by Jacob, allows for bicyclists or motorcyclists to proceed with caution through a red light after 120 seconds or two cycles of the light (presumably the latter part is intended for turn arrow signals, where the light cycles but the rider doesn't get the signal they need).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's less liberal than Idaho's law.  The idea is to keep cyclists from being trapped at signals that only change based on a sensor in the pavement, which often can't sense bikes or motorcycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is any modification to the effect of stop signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forthunt.patch.com/articles/bikes-can-run-red-lights-under-new-virginia-law-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forthunt.patch.com/articles/bikes-can-run-red-lights-under-new-virginia-law-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T19:08:08.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2012-10-18T19:47:31.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other reasons given here, most framebuilders are also wary of using curved steel fork blades with disc brakes.  Since many folks want a raked fork on a road bike for handling or aesthetic purposes, that tends to rule out disc brakes as an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a touring bike with disc brakes made by John McBride of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roselandcycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Roseland Cycles&lt;/a&gt;, and ended up using straight fork blades (actually a picture of my fork is on the top of their page at the moment).  After talking to several other framebuilders, John said it wasn't a good idea to do a curved/raked steel fork with disc brakes.  Any curving of the fork blade allows for flexibility in the direction that the brake pushes on the fork blade.  That can affect the ride (since only one fork blade is bending while braking, and also can un-spring when you let up on the brakes) and might also contribute to a chance of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cozybeehive.blogspot.com/2010/10/braking-induced-fork-failure.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fork blade breaking&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, however, I know of at least one mainstream commercial example of raked steel fork with disc brakes, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/road/aurora/12_auroraelite.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jamis Aurora Elite&lt;/a&gt;.  Maybe they just made the forks blades heavier to compensate for the flexing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T19:47:31.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2366" CreationDate="2012-10-18T20:10:47.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the Grizzly Peak Cyclists &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grizzlypeakcyclists.org/cue_sheets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cue sheets&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grizzlypeakcyclists.org/map/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;master maps&lt;/a&gt;, for well-documented rides all over the Bay Area and beyond (the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grizzlypeakcyclists.org/cue_sheets/#bbbd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Berkeley to Davis&lt;/a&gt; century is neat -- Amtrak ride home).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T20:10:47.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2366" CreationDate="2012-10-18T21:10:57.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some rides I've been on lately that might interest you, depending on your level of fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://app.strava.com/rides/25192253&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;15mi - Hawk Hill Climb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://app.strava.com/rides/25257442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;45mi - Paradise Loop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://app.strava.com/rides/19732626&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;70mi - Mt Tam from Fairfax&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marin county, just north of the Golden Gate Bridge, has some absolutely beautiful cycling. The climb up Hawk Hill isn't too long, and offers some amazing views of the city and the bay. The Paradise loop goes through Tiburon via gorgeous windy coastal backroads and doesn't have too much climbing (the Camino Alto climb can be skipped). Mount Tam feels like an endless climb, but the views from the top are simply breathtaking — all along Ridgecrest you can see the ocean and Stinson Beach on your right, and the San Francisco bay on your left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be doing the Roasters ride this Saturday or Sunday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://app.strava.com/runs/roasters-ride-3352735&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;80+mi - Roasters Ride&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2012-10-18T21:17:45.743" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T21:17:45.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1055" CreationDate="2012-10-18T23:00:52.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any Minnesota law that allows cyclists to treat a stop sign as &quot;yield&quot; (though it's common practice, and I've never heard of anyone being stopped for it if they do so in a responsible manner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regular vehicular law allows a vehicle to &quot;proceed with caution&quot; through a malfunctioning red light, and arguably a light that does not sense the presence of a bicycle is &quot;malfunctioning&quot;.  But this law would only go into effect after a cycle of the light had clearly missed the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T23:00:52.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2012-10-19T01:12:19.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rim brakes are skirt-eating monsters. Disc brakes, not as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Yes, there are other mitigators, but this one alone made me ask for disc brakes on the bike I'm having built. I like wearing long skirts to work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T01:12:19.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-10-19T03:55:08.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I converted an old hard tail Trek antelope 820 to a commuter recently.  Started with slick 2&quot; tires, the found some good 1.5&quot;s made a big difference.  I live in Asheville, Nc and its hilly as hell, so nothing made more of a difference than building my endurance! Got lights, mirror, and new big ring because old was cracked.  For a commuter, it is great.  Only complaint is a bit &quot;heavy&quot; and maybe an inch too big, but it was free.  You also need to go in knowing you can't turn a mtb into a road bike.  Its like turning a convertible into a suv.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5307" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T03:55:08.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-10-19T08:29:06.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that, as stated by others, an MTB will never match a road frame. However, should you decide to go on with it, I'm sure it will prove a very nice experience and you will learn a lot more than reading considerations about geometry and bicycle mechanics on a random forum. If you don't want to spend a fortune, look up on that big auction website for second hand components: allow some time (1-2 months) for the occasional bargain to appear and you'll spend (my guess) around 100 quids for what I suggest. I've personally converted a Raleigh Amazon into an hybrid, although I did not go as far as changing the wheel size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest differences are going to be made by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheels + Tires&lt;/strong&gt;. It is unlikely an MTB frame will fit 700c wheels. This is because the brakes mounts are positioned in such a way to catch the rim of a 26&quot; wheel. Most likely you would find your brakes at the level of the nipples of a 700c wheel (it would make for &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; sharp braking though :) )&#xA;My suggestion: try to get hold of a pair of &lt;em&gt;road&lt;/em&gt; 26 wheels: these were usually used for teenager/women road bikes, and with 26 1/4&quot; tyres make your best bet to &lt;em&gt;approach&lt;/em&gt; 700c performances.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drivetrain&lt;/strong&gt;. As suggested by others you have to shift to a drive train with higher ratio. You might want an even higher than typically used in your area, as wheel size affects the final ratio between cranks and wheel transmission (26&quot; wheels have a lower ratio than 700c wheels).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Geometry&lt;/strong&gt; (including drop handlebars). This is entirely up to you. It depends on your MTB geometry. I have seen a few MTB frames (should I say &quot;MTB&quot;) with really aggressive geometry &lt;em&gt;to be an MTB&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5278" LastEditorUserId="10856" LastEditDate="2015-04-04T13:27:08.087" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T13:27:08.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12838" CreationDate="2012-10-19T13:15:50.367" Score="17" ViewCount="37399" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend and I are looking at a new bike for her. The one we're looking at has a 70 degree head tube angle while her current bike has a 70.5 degree head tube angle. Unfortunately, none of the local shops has one in stock for her to try out. So my question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much does the head tube angle affect the fit and feel of a bicycle? I'm sure that it has at least some effect over the fit of the bicycle, but how much? And I'm guessing it has an even bigger effect on the steering, but again, how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-10-19T16:39:10.140" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T15:11:50.130" Title="What effect does head tube angle have on a bicycle?" Tags="&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12837" CreationDate="2012-10-19T13:37:42.353" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;there's a good write-up about this here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/geometry-of-bike-handling/&quot;&gt;http://www.calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/geometry-of-bike-handling/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general the steeper the angle the more agile the steering. If you like steeper you might say &quot;quicker, more response&quot;, if you didn't like steeper you might say &quot;twitchier&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 1/2 degree difference is probably not going to make that much difference by itself. The other factors, which headset, installation of headset, stem length, handlebar type and setup, etc., will mask the differences here. As the Calfee page mentions, people will adjust very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T13:37:42.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12837" CreationDate="2012-10-19T13:44:32.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you already suppose, the angle does make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your first question: If you take the distance between the wheel axles as a constant measure, the handle bar will get further away from the saddle the higher the head tube angle gets, therefore the geometry gets &quot;longer&quot;. This can for a certain amount be compensated by a shorter stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger effect is - you guessed it - on the steering behaviour. A flat head tube causes the steering to get more stable, so its tendency to go straight is higher. This means that if you compare a bike with a flat head tube to one with a steep one, the flat one will feel like driving on rails, meaning you feel like you have to &quot;force&quot; it into curves as it tends to go on straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most interesting question is if the difference of half a degree really would make a difference but I think it won't. I can remember that when I bought my last bike some time ago that the different bikes that made it to the final decision had some spread over some 1 or 2 degrees in head tube angle, but they were all from the same price and purpose class. So I would say that such a small difference will be more due to technical decisions of the manufacturer than due to better or different handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T13:44:32.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-19T17:53:34.917" Score="4" ViewCount="2293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a normal ranger bike without gears, I've had this bike for quite a while now, been 8 years. But recently it's chain has started slipping off. I have maintained it well, changed the chain a couple of times and got new tyres twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason of the chain slipping? I always tell my bike guy to fix it permanently, on which he bluntly says, &quot;there ain't a permanent fix&quot;. I ride it to work everyday so I can't afford these intermittent slip offs. Recently I went to a new repair shop where he told me I should get the rear wheel axle changed. Could it be the axle or the hub?&#xA;Is there any way to find out. Coz everytime I go to the guy complaining that the chain is slipping off, he just aligns the wheel and says it won't happen now. LOL &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used SO for a lot of other queries related to other walks of life. Hoping for a positive response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T20:20:46.400" Title="Chain slipping off a non geared bike" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8722" CreationDate="2012-10-19T17:57:10.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the description of the problem --- rounded teeth on the chainring --- there is no need to be replacing the crankset.  Simply replacing the chainring in question should take care of the problem.  It's almost certainly a 5-bolt 110mm BCD chainring which should be available in any bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5314" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T17:57:10.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12846" CreationDate="2012-10-19T18:11:26.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, chains aren't very different from tires in the sense that, they have to be replaced regularly, especially when you are commuting regularly. During summer and fall when I commute and race the most it's not unusual for me to replace my chain every other month. Chains get worn out, they stretch, they start to skip and behave poorly. If you haven't replaced that chain in two years, I'll bet my hat that it's falling off because it needs a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new axle couldn't hurt either if you're axle is looking worn and starting to slip. You might have to trust the word of the repairman that pointed out the worn axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T18:11:26.757" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12846" CreationDate="2012-10-19T18:21:02.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you said you have changed the chain a couple of times, I guess the problem is not again in the chain, because you would have it replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence my guess is that you have to replace the rear sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drive train wears in &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; its parts, but because of different mechanical functions and characteristics, some parts wear faster than others. After the chain, the next in the list of a single speed bicycle is the sprocket. Because of it size it wears faster than its front brother the crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good tip would be to look at the shape of the sprocket teeth. If they look very asymmetrical, it's probably time to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what the rear wheel &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_wheel#Axle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;axle&lt;/a&gt; would have to do with a chain slipping, and still have you ride the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T18:21:02.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12853" CreationDate="2012-10-19T19:10:15.647" Score="2" ViewCount="716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see these everywhere, but no one can come up with a consistent name for them from company to company. GXP is the closest I can come to a name for the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-apex-crankset#/path/term-id/254&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-apex-crankset#/path/term-id/254&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-10-20T03:30:48.790" LastActivityDate="2012-10-20T03:30:48.790" Title="What do you call the crankset system type on the Sram Apex?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12846" CreationDate="2012-10-19T19:14:08.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your Rear wheel is sliding around in the rear dropouts and you wind up loosing tension on the chain. It's really a common thing on single speed and fixed gear bikes, you should make sure the tension is set properly when you ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have rear facing horizontal dropouts (track dropouts) that go straight back, then the axle can slide in the dropouts sometimes.  One solution is to get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005P3TG98&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; Chain Tensioner &lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Tugnut&lt;/a&gt; which will help prevent axle slips in the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, if your bike has front facing horizontal dropouts, then you can't use a chain tensioner like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, you should just get a wrench and learn how to set the proper tension on your chain and center it between the dropouts and then you won't have to go to your bike guy every time this happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would the mechanic ask you to change your axle?  Maybe the threads on your axle are warped, making the bolts on the rear axle come loose faster, causing the wheel to slide in the dropouts more easily.  If this is the case, then changing the axle and getting new axle bolts may help a bit with the frequency of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T19:14:08.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="54727" CreationDate="2012-10-19T19:15:50.367" Score="7" ViewCount="16149" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this bottom bracket type I am not sure you can take the bearings out to lube them. How do I get grease in there. Also how do I get the old grease out? Does it even matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/09VcW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sram Apex Bottom Bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this video (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8gfeZEPjK0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;External Bottom Bracket Cup Bearing Removal&lt;/a&gt;) where someone removes the bottom bracket bearing cup, but they never showed the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="1473" LastEditDate="2012-10-19T19:34:11.813" LastActivityDate="2020-06-07T15:32:07.807" Title="How to properly clean and lube the bearings on a sram apex bottom bracket (GXP)?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12850" CreationDate="2012-10-19T19:18:26.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sram apex is a double chainring crankset which uses a GXP (aka &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket#Giga-X-Pipe&quot;&gt;Giga-X-Pipe&lt;/a&gt;) bottom bracket which is an external bearing bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think External Bearing or Outboard bottom bracket are both commonly accepted terms, however there are several different incompatible types of external bottom brackets such as hollowtech, GXP, and Ultra Tourque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-10-19T19:35:02.607" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T19:35:02.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12852" CreationDate="2012-10-19T19:48:07.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These bottom brackets use sealed bearings, which are in a metal casing.  Unlike cartridge bearings, the bearings are not exposed and are sealed from the outside environment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some bottom brackets that are are meant to be user serviced, like the chris king bottom bracket, but others may be much more difficult without specialized tools, while lower end ones may be expected to simply be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T19:48:07.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12846" CreationDate="2012-10-19T20:20:46.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn, &quot;stiff&quot; or bent chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much slack in chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn sprockets or missing teeth, front or rear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bent sprocket (more likely on front than rear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain line misalignment -- frame is bent or something (misplaced spacers, etc) has caused the crank or rear axle to move &quot;sideways&quot;.  Vaguely possible that the axle could get cocked sideways (due to loose nuts) and cause this, but usually tire rub would become intolerable first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some object (heel, shoestring, fender, etc) getting in the way of the chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T20:20:46.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10588" CreationDate="2012-10-20T00:29:54.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To shortly answer your question: You can approximate a proper bike to buy, but you can be sure only by actually riding it long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to elaborate my answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, there is no such thing as a true &quot;do it all bike&quot;. However, there might be a bike that perfectly suits all YOUR needs, as long as they are reasonably close. For an extreme example, there will be no bike that allows you to jump rampage style 5 meter drops while being so lightweight that you can climb the Everest on it. Having that said, lets assume your needs are not to far from each other in the MTB activities spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people think suspension travel is the (only) key factor determining the abilities of a bike, but actually other factors can be even more decisive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fork tuning&lt;/strong&gt;: Any fork that has good adjustment capabilities, assuming your ideal setup falls inside the fork's range, will have also a configuration that you'll feel terrible. A decent contemporary fork should have at least two adjustments: Preload/Sag, rebound speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preload and sag are intimately related, being sag the amount of travel taken by the fork by just applying rider's weight to the bike. Every manufacturer will state an appropriate sag range for every fork model. Rider weight affects sag, and you reduce it by increasing preload, or augment sag by decreasing preload. But there is a range (instead of a single solid number) for a reason: two differrent people, riding the same bike will handle it with their own style, technique, etc... For example, when I descend a rocky XC trail, I do it standing on the bike, in a neutral posture and &quot;helping&quot; suspension with my elbows (and knees), therefore, I tend to use more preload (less sag) for a more precise handling, and a more responsive feel. My father, instead, will take the same trail seated, leaned back as far as he can go, so he tunes his suspension towards the higher sag recommended value. Neither of us will feel comfortable/confident riding each other's bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebound speed is how fast the suspension will return to its &quot;normal&quot; position after hitting a bump. Rebound speed is also intimately related to rider's personal technique, but also the ridden terrain, to the degree that some riders use a different setting for some trails than for others. In my case, as a DH rider, I usually set rebound according to the particular track, but as a XC rider, I just have set a rebound speed that is a fair compromise that will allow me to confidently ride most of the trails I use to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fork Design&lt;/strong&gt;: Further than just travel, check what's the intended use and rider weight of your fork. There are, for example, 100mm XC forks, 100mm Dirt Jump forks, and I have seen 100mm forks for commuting/touring/hauling bikes. For each one different design choices have been made, and ones can be unsuitable for other uses. For example, a fork designed for a skinny rider may be impossible to adjust properly for a chubby one. Or a fork made for a hauling bike will be perceived &quot;rock solid&quot; if put in a lightweight XC bike for a small rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rider related factors&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Besides factors related to the fork, there are factors related to the rider. Note I have mentioned &quot;style&quot; and &quot;personal technique&quot; several times. These are characteristic that a rider develops with time and practice, but also, they evolve once established. Thus, a &quot;proper&quot; fork tuning is expected to change over time, specially for a beginner rider (even if beginner in one specific discipline and expert in another).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changes in rider's body also affect performance, style, technique. These factors are normally changing, except maybe for stabilised professional riders and a few other, but for most of us, &quot;simple mortal riders&quot;, we are constantly gaining or loosing weight, ageing, going through fatigue/recovering cycles, etc... All of them change &quot;who we are&quot; while on top of our bikes, so, the perfect bike one day, can be a terrible one a few months later, but may become ideal once again later. Consider in this category injury recovery time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other components of the bike&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;When you swap some component you may be changing bike handling characteristics. The most likely to interact directly with rider's perception of the fork is the chosen tire. Some tires will contribute positively or negatively to handling. For example a hard rubber tire with low adhesion is not a good combo with a fast rebounding fork. But a soft tire, with good traction and specially a fat one that can be used with less pressure may work wonders with the same fork setting. Rim, spokes and wheel lacing are also factors to include in the equation, though to a lesser extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practical considerations&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You mention &quot;... start hitting the trails...&quot;, that leads me to think you are kind of novice. (Please excuse me if not the case). That means you will be growing in experience, technique, possibly getting more fit and also trying harder challenges, longer rides, faster racing, etc. With all of these you may find yourself wanting to change something on your bike, or even the hole bike, but you can not know for sure until you ride it long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get your new bike, make sure to &quot;properly&quot; fit and tune it, but remember: most settings and specific measurements for fitting and set up are given in ranges, you get to choose the specific value for each. Even so, many fitting rules are actually starting points, not unbreakable laws, so you can deviate slightly or not no slightly from them to suit your specific needs. Also, a single setting may not be enough for all the things you ride, sometimes you'll have to cope with the compromise, sometimes you'll have to plan ahead and tune your bike for what you'll be doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for all the bike, including the fork, so, don't get desperate if you find yourself making constant changes during the first months. As long as you ride enough, you'll find the sweet spot for every adjustment that can be made. So, &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; after riding enough, after learning about the practical limits of your bike and your body, you find yourself hitting the extreme of an adjustment dial, the maximum or minimum extension of something, then, start considering to change that component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is advisable to change one adjustment at a time, so you cope with less variables. Do the adjustment, test it by riding, do not just take a few loops in your backyard or in the street in front of home, cope with the differences for a while and then evaluate if it's really better or worse. When you make an adjustment, I reccomend: change it until you notice it is too much, then go back a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Do not get overwhelmed in case I've thrown too much information, if you are a beginner, you will learn all of this an a lot more step by step. the general idea of the whole answer is (again): You can approximate a proper bike to buy, but you can be sure only by actually riding it long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T16:14:23.770" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T16:14:23.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12852" CreationDate="2012-10-20T03:28:08.497" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;SRAM GXP bottom brackets can be user serviced, but it is usually unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To service your BB bearings, first remove the crank arms.  Then place your thumb in the BB spindle hole, and bend the joint enough that your knuckle makes firm contact around the entire ring surface of the spindle hole.  Pull outward using fairly firm pressure, and if necessary, rock your thumb side to side.  This will pull free the outer, plastic shield, and expose the inner rubber bearing seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then take a scalpel, or a sharp awl, and use the tip to gently pry up the edge of the bearing seal.  You may need to lift it at more than one area around the edge, but it should pop free with a little force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the seal is removed, clean and degrease the exposed bearings, replace the grease with fresh grease, then replace the seals.  Repeat on the bearing on the opposite side of the BB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One word of warning: while this is possible, and not likely to cause any issues, it is not intended by the manufacturer, and will not be covered under warranty, should you damage the BB in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2018-05-17T20:45:38.197" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T20:45:38.197" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12850" CreationDate="2012-10-20T03:30:03.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct terminology is &quot;GXP&quot; or &quot;GXP compatible crank set&quot;, for your SRAM Apex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An outboard BB includes any BB which uses the same BSA or Italian threading as older style BB's, but places a larger bearing outside the frame, rather than a s,Allen bearing inside the frame.  This increases BB stiffness and durability, while reducing weight. Unfortunately, unlike square taper BB's, there are many varieties of out board bearing BB's and they are not interchangeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-10-20T03:30:03.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4010" CreationDate="2012-10-20T12:18:24.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm  late to this thread, sorry, but ...I've tested out all the folding bikes at my local bike shop, Dahon and schwinns mostly and ended up buying the Citizen Gotham Large frame. It's a 7 speed 22lb street cruiser, aluminum frame, with all the bells and whistles. I got the seat upgrade for $29 and makes a huge difference for long distance riding.  All in I paid about $350. I've been riding it almost 2 years and I'm just bringing it in for a little tweaking now, no parts failures at all. Ill tell ya this, even with the bigger frame at 6' tall I find the bike to be barely just big enough. If your dad is taller than me I'd go with a Dahon, they're more money by 2-3x but their frames are bigger. My wife has the Miami model you mentioned, also a great bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5317" LastActivityDate="2012-10-20T12:18:24.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12708" CreationDate="2012-10-20T14:52:47.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the bracket is so corroded it's useless, both cups being stuck and the whole eccentric moving (as astabada suggests) is the only way I can see that the cups can be stiffly linked. I'd try doing the bolts that grip that back up first (assuming they are the ones on a saucer in your photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried undoing the fixed cup, or at least holding it it to stop it turning? You will probably need a better spanner/wrench than he one in your photo, something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dotbike.com/p/6301&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dotbike.com/p/6301&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.awcycles.co.uk/park-tool-36mm-box-end-fixed-cup-wrench-bottom-bracket-pin-spanner.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.awcycles.co.uk/park-tool-36mm-box-end-fixed-cup-wrench-bottom-bracket-pin-spanner.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, sometimes you can grip it in a bench vise - might be tricky with a tandem, but if you can get the eccentric out of the frame it might help get the bracket out of the eccentric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get one cup out, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html&lt;/a&gt; for a tool to get the other one unstuck - while Sheldon talks about using it on a stuck fixed cup once you've got the adjustable one out, I've had one bike where I could get the fixed cup out but not the adjustable, it works both ways. Just remember that the threads are reversed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Since the eccentric looks like aluminium alloy, gentle heat &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be more effective at unsticking the cups than it would be on steel in steel. But unless you are prepared to strip paint off the frame, it probably won't help.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2012-10-20T14:52:47.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-20T19:05:19.733" Score="11" ViewCount="7560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just watched the 'Road to Glory' documentary about Team Sky.  I noticed when they were warming up on their Turbos, some of them had cotton wool up their noses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this because it's better to breathe through your mouth than nose?  If so, why don't they have cotton wool up their noses during the actual race?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4589" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T16:18:53.923" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T19:58:06.780" Title="Is it better to breathe through your nose or mouth when cycling?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12861" CreationDate="2012-10-20T20:04:37.990" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Breathe however you need to in order to get oxygen in. This goes for your mouth, nose or a combination of both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riders warming up on their trainers have cotton in their noses that contains something like vapor rub that helps open up the nasal passages. They don't have it in their noses during the race itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T17:10:18.963" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T17:10:18.963" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12868" CreationDate="2012-10-20T20:53:23.100" Score="3" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have overdeveloped quads, which has affected my knees, what are some exercises that will help counteract this imbalance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T21:27:49.030" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T14:15:00.590" Title="Exercises to Counter act muscluar imbalances" Tags="&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12864" CreationDate="2012-10-20T22:00:23.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Patellofemoral pain syndrome is a fairly common complaint from cyclists.  You really should consult with a medically-trained therapist, but straight leg lifts, oddly, are a good place to start.  (Lay on back, hold leg straight, lift without bending knee.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-20T22:00:23.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12736" CreationDate="2012-10-21T00:35:08.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in the day, when everyone used tubulars, serious riders would age them intentionally. There's no science to back this up, and no measurable benefit, but apparently no serious detriment either, as long as they're still in good shape. If the sidewalls or tread are cracking, they're no good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T00:35:08.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12864" CreationDate="2012-10-21T03:19:50.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you should really consult with a sports medicine doctor. That's the only way to truly diagnose and evaluate the best way to correct the specific problem that you're having. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, this problem is usually a result of a combination of over developed quads, as you suspect, and also a lack of flexibility in your hamstrings. Any hamstring stretch will most likely help, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;over time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try seated and standing toe touches, downward facing dog, and those seated one legged stretches where you  reach for one foot while the other is folded in. You'll find plenty of other stretches if you do a search for &quot;hamstring stretches.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, don't push it. Gaining flexibility takes time more than effort. Pushing is actually counter productive. Just do the stretches &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and trust in time to do the real work for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T03:19:50.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-21T11:16:19.950" Score="2" ViewCount="1128" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently replaced the back wheel's tyre on my bike. Got it all fitted back on again, and the chain and everything are in place as they should be. However, changing up gears has become very stiff indeed, and as soon as I get on the bike and start pedalling, the chain snaps off from the wheel and wedges itself in a gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No idea what the cause is - I slip the chain on by pedalling it a bit indoors (without sitting on it), but as soon as I get it outside and peddle for a second, it comes right off. The bike is about 10 years old, hasn't had much use until the last few months (when I've been riding it every day), and had never seen any reparations until I replaced the back tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly sure I've messed something up while putting the tyre on. I don't really know much of the terminology (wikipedia calls my gears 'internal hub gearing'). The gears seem to be attached to the wheel itself, rather than the bike frame (which seems different to the videos I saw on the internet), so I had to remove the chain and unhook the gear changing wire thing from the wheel to remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the vague information - anyone got any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5323" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T19:45:16.930" Title="stiff gears and chain coming off while pedalling forward (hub gear)" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-21T12:51:30.473" Score="2" ViewCount="1148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Scott S40 Speedster and I'm considering changing to a double chainset from the triple I have at present, also going from a 9 speed cassette to a 10. Not sure whats involved, do I need new wheels and a group set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much appreciate some guidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5324" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T13:11:48.183" Title="Changing from a triple ring Shimano Sora chainset to a double ring chainset" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12870" CreationDate="2012-10-21T13:11:48.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't need new wheels, but you'll need a new cassette in back. Also, I'm assuming that you've updated your shifters and rear derailleur from 9 to 10 speed? The minimum you will need to switch out going from 9 to 10 speed is the rear shifter, rear derailleur and cassete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as swapping out the triple to a double you don't need a new front derailleur, but you will need to readjust it by bringing in the limit to accommodate the change from 3 rings to 2 so your chain doesn't drop inside when shifting down to the inner ring. You don't absolutely need to swap out the front shifter, but adjustments are a little more tricky as you currently have 3 clicks instead of the 2 needed. You can either limit the clicks to two or just use 2 clicks for shifting down. Be sure to check the outside limit as well. Once the limits are adjusted you'll just need to readjust your front shifting. There are plenty of instructions here and videos online that spell this out completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also need to adjust the length of your chain, so be sure to check that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T13:11:48.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12861" CreationDate="2012-10-21T13:47:53.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it kinda depends on what type of ride you are going for. Generally, breathing from mouth provides more amount of oxygen compared to from nose. So it comes down to this IMO (&amp;amp; Experience):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nose:&lt;/strong&gt; You have to respire quickly to get enough oxygen to lungs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mouth:&lt;/strong&gt; You can breath slowly but you can still get enough oxygen into lungs very quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;breath depending on how you are riding&lt;/strong&gt;. If you are sprinting you will want to get as more oxygen as you can into the lungs, but if you are going on a casual ride, breathing from nose is enough and safe (from bugs etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T13:47:53.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12861" CreationDate="2012-10-21T16:28:04.993" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some people, weather conditions (specifically: temperature and humidity) make a big difference. Not so much for direct intake of oxygen, but because &lt;a href=&quot;http://allergicliving.com/index.php/2010/07/02/asthma-cold-air-and-exercise/&quot;&gt;repeated inhalation of cold, dry air directly through the mouth can cause significantly more irritation of the airways and lungs&lt;/a&gt;, triggering asthma symptoms. Breathing through the nose &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.entnet.org/HealthInformation/lungGuardian.cfm&quot;&gt;warms and slightly moistens the air&lt;/a&gt; before it goes to your windpipe and lungs and can decrease this effect. Nose-breathing has the added benefit of filtering out particulate matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T16:28:04.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-21T16:48:20.447" Score="5" ViewCount="1562" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the winter, I'm looking to get either a Turbo Trainer (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_223837_categoryId_229901_langId_-1?cm_sp=Intelligent_Offer-_-Product_Details_Zone_1-_-Blank&amp;amp;iozone=PDPz1&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;) or Training Rollers (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_891581_categoryId_229901_langId_-1?cm_sp=Intelligent_Offer-_-Product_Details_Zone_1-_-Blank&amp;amp;iozone=PDPz1&quot;&gt;like these&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I like the idea of not being able to turn the front wheel.  Mind you, I do a fair bit of spinning, and it doesn't bother me there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rollers 'look' better, somehow more natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your experiences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4589" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T02:30:52.343" Title="What are the pros and cons of a Turbo Trainer over Training Rollers?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12874" CreationDate="2012-10-21T17:17:41.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stand trainers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pros&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no concerns of falling over/slipping off, especially for certain types of training, e.g. one-legged drills&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;better for interval/spike training, where transitions in speed are not smooth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more options for variable/controllable resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cons&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less natural riding style because of bike's fixed position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;may develop pedal stroke imbalances (or allow them to go undetected)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;requires special mounting skewer (most brands)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can cause significant tire wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rollers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pros&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more natural style; bike responds more like actual riding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can help develop smoother pedal stroke and better form&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cons&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to fall off and cause damage (to body, bike, and surrounding objects)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fewer options for variable/controllable resistance (only a few makes/models offer this and they're expensive compared to options for stand trainers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many folks I know have both a stand trainer and rollers and focus their training using the relative strengths of each type, i.e. stand trainer for &quot;power&quot; workouts, and rollers for &quot;form&quot; training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your specific concern about natural movement: there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJKktyEwa00&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;at least one stand-type trainer&lt;/a&gt; that is somewhat more natural than a fixed stand. It is considerably more expensive and occupies a lot more space than a normal stand trainer, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastEditorUserId="3363" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T02:30:52.343" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T02:30:52.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10588" CreationDate="2012-10-21T21:58:12.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any bike is a 'do anything bike'. The question is, how hard do you want it to be? I have a rigid bike, front suspension, and full suspension. I ride the same trials with all three. Which depends on what kind of ride I want. Highly technical and challenging = rigid. Fun, fast and easy = Full suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100mm used to be the standard for ling travel years ago. Guys were riding pretty sick stuff back then on older hardware and it stood up to it. Now things are better, but longer travel is more common. Needed? Nope. Just available and makes it easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a smaller build like yours I would say 100mm is plenty and you are not likely to break stuff. My friends who are 220+ never did despite their crazy lines and drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One rule I learned way too late: the sport is best enjoyed riding. Get out and ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5325" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T21:58:12.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12874" CreationDate="2012-10-21T22:51:34.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid this is not going to be a complete answer, but it is a sort of answer, so I won't put it as just a comment (and after all, you asked for experiences).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used the Turbo type, but have built myself a roller, actually a very questionable one, but it worked fine the winter I actually used it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding falling off, it never, NEVER was a real problem after the first ten minutes of getting used to it. I could spin as fast as 180 RPM (peak), and accelerate quite hard, without an issue. The &quot;secret&quot; is to have a proper distance between the rear rollers, so the rear wheel can &quot;sink&quot; a bit between them and stabilize the bike, and also to have the front roller in a neutral position so that it doesn't push the bike forewards/rearwards. This also makes it harder to roll, so if one wants to train &quot;round stroke&quot; the distance can be reduced, making the roller faster and more unforgiving. It's nice, and if you fall off, it's not at ACTUAL 30 mph...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding adjustment of &quot;hardness&quot;, for all my practical, self-determined purposes, the very own gear-shifting of the bike did it all. At the time, I rode mountainbike, and even knobby tires can work depending on specific tire thread and roller diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always trained regular riding style, playing with cadence/gear combinations. Half an hour was enough to wash the floor in sweat, but I suspect a better quality (not home made) roller would be more comfortable to ride longer. The effect upon my riding was very noticeable, specially the increased ability to spin fast at relatively high speeds (&quot;Armstrong-style&quot;) for longer times, which can be an advantage over other riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like, also, the idea of having the bike fixed, this seems like taking away what makes riding fun (balancing), and for orthodox training purposes, I believe it fulfills the needs of most riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T22:51:34.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2939" CreationDate="2012-10-21T23:52:35.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a dry bag to wash clothes, because I often stay in National Parks campgrounds with no sinks. The Campsuds referenced earlier can be added with some water from a spigot or pump and the clothes squeezed and shaken right in the bag.  Dump water, squeeze excess and add clean water to rinse.  Dirty dry clothes can be stored in the dry bag until you can wash them.&#xA;I also bring two sets of cotton socks, which I wear in my regular sneakers (in which I also ride) around camp to dry out rain soaked sneakers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5326" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T23:52:35.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-22T00:55:36.123" Score="1" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into a hopefully short-term solution for my daughter's small hands for shifting the left/front. Current setup is Shimano Sora with triple on the front. She can shift the right side fine, it's just the front/left. We've already had the shop add the shims to bring the shifter levers closer to the bars, but that's not really the problem. The problem is that her hands are to small/weak to overcome the resistance of the derailleur spring (going from smaller chainrings -&gt; larger...going large to small is no problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to avoid changing out the whole drivetrain, and I want to retain as much of the existing gearing that she has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideas I had: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;SRAM double-tap. Probably not viable as I believe it is double-only, and I think I would also need to use a SRAM front derailleur as well since the cable pull ratio is different.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shimano TT bar-end shifter. Not sure these are available for triple?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Downtube shifter(s). Not sure about this one as the frame has an oversized downtube and no standoffs for shifter mounting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T02:12:30.800" Title="Alternatives for front shifting for small hands" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12879" CreationDate="2012-10-22T02:12:30.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could run a bar end or downtube shifter in friction mode to accommodate a triple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can run a sram shifter with shimano FD, but they only work for double as you suspected. For the most part, FDs are dumb, it's mostly just the shifter that has all the smarts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T02:12:30.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-10-22T02:24:30.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be improved, a pair of club roost cross terra 1.5&quot; tires, and a pair of bar end set inside the grips @ 16&quot; apart, the need to be level to the ground. You want a bunch of your upper body weight toward the front of the bike.  The covers the two biggest factors, friction on the ground and body position improving aerodynamics.  Think of the bar ends as cheap aero bars.&#xA;The next step to improve power is to add toe clips to your current pedals or clip less if you're feeling fancy.  Proper clothing will also improve performance and decrease effort and don't forget before long ride carb up prior to riding and carbs while you ride.&#xA;The entire conversion cost you about 80bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5327" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T02:24:30.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3981" CreationDate="2012-10-22T03:12:54.820" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it always happen when you are on the smallest 2 cogs in back.  They wear out fast if you spend alot of time on them.  Its common.  You can produce enough torque in the smallest and middle front chain rings but not the bigger.  I believe your back cogs are worn.  Try experimenting when riding with the big and small cogs in back.  I bet your little cogs are very worn (very sloped sides).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5328" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T03:12:54.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15188" CreationDate="2012-10-22T07:03:35.313" Score="2" ViewCount="1349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an external bearing BB, that I need replaced (It is quite badly rusted). I opt to do the repair myself. &lt;em&gt;The bike is a Specialized Hardrock, the crank arms are SR Suntour.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having removed the crank arms, I proceed to unscrew the plastic sealing rings of the BB. I removed the non drive side one. However, with all my strength, and a 30cm arm wrench I fail to produce any progress on the drive side cup. I am trying to turn the cup &lt;strong&gt;clockwise&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is going on here? Am I doing something wrong? If I go to my LBS, is it probable that they will have a larger wrench? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T10:56:59.450" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T07:06:08.547" Title="Failing to unscrew BB - what now?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-22T10:32:29.600" Score="5" ViewCount="33302" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are bicyle passenger trailers limited to child sizes? I have looked for larger sizes but most stores only offer trailers sized for children. It would be an inline trailer sized for a small to medium size female, 160 pounds (72kg) or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5329" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T00:30:03.663" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T16:17:08.143" Title="How can I find an adult-sized passenger trailer?" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-05-13T18:00:24.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12884" CreationDate="2012-10-22T12:04:20.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pashley used to do something a bit like this that I thought went to adult sizes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclesense.co.uk/m17b0s435p7209/MISSION-Piggy-back-Mk11-special-needs-24-inch-wheel-2012&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclesense.co.uk/m17b0s435p7209/MISSION-Piggy-back-Mk11-special-needs-24-inch-wheel-2012&lt;/a&gt; (And that might be big enough for you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.castlecaremobility.com/pashleyaccessories2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.castlecaremobility.com/pashleyaccessories2.htm&lt;/a&gt; maybe the Pashley was only child size anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen a large equivalent of the sort of trailers that small children just sit in though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If by &quot;inline&quot;, you mean a single wheel trailer like the Bob Yak, I've never seen a passenger version of them, only two-wheeled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T12:04:20.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12883" CreationDate="2012-10-22T12:38:24.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try hammering your wrench, see photo 4b of&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-replacing-shimano-truvativ-or-fsa-bottom-brackets-27046/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-replacing-shimano-truvativ-or-fsa-bottom-brackets-27046/&lt;/a&gt; (or search for &quot;Cheat 3:&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, as it also says, a longer cheater bar if your tool allows (see the photo above the &quot;Cheat&quot;s, though that's the tool for internal cartridge brackets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, try and make sure that the tool can't slip off the bracket (e.g. use a bolt though the bracket holding large washers overlapping the tool), and that even if it does, your knuckles won't hit anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(When you say &quot;wrench&quot;, you are using a tool designed for the bracket cup, not a pipe wrench or similar, yes?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yes, there's a good chance LBS will have stronger tools if you can't shift it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T12:38:24.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12884" CreationDate="2012-10-22T14:24:16.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Haven't seen a commercial trailer that allows for passive adult passengers. There are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caboosetrailerbike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Caboose Trailer Bike&lt;/a&gt; and home made &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/projects/tstrike/rectrailer.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Recumbent Bike Trailer&lt;/a&gt; as alternatives.  Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xtracycle.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Xtracycle&lt;/a&gt; supports passengers up to 200 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5233" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T14:24:16.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12884" CreationDate="2012-10-22T15:06:23.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure I've seen photos of one of the heavy-duty eurobikes with a heavy trailer attached.  Don't know any brands, though, or where you'd get one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T15:06:23.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12883" CreationDate="2012-10-22T16:25:06.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try and use differential heating, or one of the other methods suggested by &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Sheldon Brown's&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had very good luck with cooling the components, but in your case the aluminum is outside, so you have to &lt;em&gt;heat&lt;/em&gt; the whole thing. You can adapt my experience as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because heating too much will definitely ruin the paintwork, I suggest that you use some sort of large container (I'd say 40 cm long, but it depends precisely on the frame geometry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 - gather all wrenches/pipes/friends/vice/explosives you are&#xA;planning to use to uscrew. Keep them at arm's reach.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.1 - [optional] I usually hammer energically the part that is stuck, &lt;em&gt;perpendicular&lt;/em&gt; to the screwing direction. In your case this would be along the BB axis. Should you do so, put the frame on a flat surface,&#xA;making sure only the non drive side of the BB touches. Then, making&#xA;sure it touches wholly, hammer the cup 5-6 times. This is&#xA;(supposedly) meant to break oxide bounds in the threads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 - put the frame inside the container, making sure the BB is fully under the&#xA;container edges. Removing the front wheel and/or placing the&#xA;container on a small chair/box will help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 - now put hot water in&#xA;it, until BB is about 1cm under.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.1 [optional] I don't think the mass of the frame will be able to cool the hot water too much, but it really depends on the volume ratio between&#xA;frame and water. If you think the water has been cooled significantly&#xA;in contact with the frame (and the container) you might change it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.2 [optional] Depending on whether you had success or not, you might want to put the stuck cup in contact with an ice bag &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; the&#xA;latter touching the aluminum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 - Take the thing out of the water and&#xA;rapidly apply unscrewing force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd go with 0,1,2,3. If you don't have success try adding the optional steps. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Sheldon Brown's&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; you will find additional ideas (e.g. using ammonia, soaking in ice - I had a hard times with pedals vs cranks before learning to let them sit overnight in the freezer!).&#xA;I have never tried most of them though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T16:25:06.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2012-10-22T18:27:31.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nobody has mentioned the best thing about a triple.  Ease of shifting.  I have a double now and the problem with shifting is you always seem to be in the wrong gear.  With a triple if you're at 20 mph or more your in the big ring.  If your 10 mph or less your in the little ring.  All the rest of the time (Which is 70%+) you're in the middle.  With a double at a average speed !5 mph to 18 Mph you're reaching up in the little or down in the big.  You end up changing the chainring through out the whole ride.  Triple is just easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5331" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T18:27:31.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2939" CreationDate="2012-10-22T18:52:31.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I toured in pretty warm weather (some mornings were in the 50s (°F)) with two sets of on-bike clothes, two sets of off-bike clothes, a jacket, a pair of tights, and a smartwool long undershirt. I left the raingear at home and got lucky. My off-bike clothes were the lightest I could find—thin T-shirts, convertible trousers made of synthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For shoes, I had my cleats, a minimal pair of sneakers, and a pair of flipflops, which were nice to have along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cleaning, I'd rinse out whatever on-bike clothes I wore that day and wring them dry in a towel. Whenever I stayed with a Warm Showers host (speaking of which, get hooked up with Warm Showers), they'd let me use their washer and dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T18:52:31.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-22T21:52:09.403" Score="2" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing lots of long-distance cycling this year (150+ kilometers). With that much riding, there's obviously a need for some sustenance, and I'd rather not stop just to eat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The protein/carb bars have been getting incredibly boring... especially for my second meal on the road, so I've been experimenting with different foods like sandwiches and soups in a thermos. That's worked just fine, but it got me thinking... is there any system that I could use to cook or heat-up food while I cycle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's crazy, I know, but when I was a kid, my father would cook food on the engine block while we drove... and I was thinking, that's almost a reason to start driving again :). Any thoughts on what I could do to heat-while-I-ride? Chemical heat? Electrical? Propane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter (propane) seems dangerous and not so environmental friendly, but I suppose it couldn't be &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3672" LastEditorUserId="5278" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T13:36:37.257" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:56:32.790" Title="How can I warm up/cook food while cycling?" Tags="&lt;nutrition&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12938" CreationDate="2012-10-22T23:04:57.593" Score="6" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Utah has a three foot passing law that states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://le.utah.gov/code/TITLE41/htm/41_06a070605.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Title 41 Chapter 6a Section 706.5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Operation of motor vehicle near bicycle prohibited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An operator of a motor vehicle may not knowingly, intentionally, or recklessly operate a motor vehicle within three feet of a moving bicycle, unless the operator of the motor vehicle operates the motor vehicle within a reasonable and safe distance of the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are three foot passing laws in other states worded similarly to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular phrasing seems to legitimize excuses such &quot;I didn't know you were there&quot; or &quot;I didn't mean to pass so close&quot; or even &quot;three inches seemed like a reasonable and safe distance to me.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something about the specific legal meaning of the words that makes this law more concrete than it seems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11037/what-is-the-3-foot-law-and-which-states-have-it&quot;&gt;What is the 3 foot law and which states have it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T12:39:13.793" Title="Does a three foot passing law actually require drivers to give three feet?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12894" CreationDate="2012-10-23T00:03:40.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revisor.mn.gov/bin/getpub.php?pubtype=STAT_CHAP_SEC&amp;amp;year=current&amp;amp;section=169.18&amp;amp;image.x=21&amp;amp;image.y=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Minnesota&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the operator of a motor vehicle overtaking a bicycle or individual&#xA;  proceeding in the same direction on the roadway shall leave a safe&#xA;  distance, but in no case less than three feet clearance, when passing&#xA;  the bicycle or individual and shall maintain clearance until safely&#xA;  past the overtaken bicycle or individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems fairly clear, and I read it to mean that 3 feet is the &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that several western states (dunno about Utah) have &quot;safe and reasonable&quot; escape clauses for many of their traffic laws.  Eg, you can drive 100mph if it's &quot;safe and reasonable under the circumstances&quot;, regardless of posted speed limits.  That just the way the &quot;wild west&quot; is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T00:03:40.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12894" CreationDate="2012-10-23T00:26:49.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's more concrete than it seems, I assure you. The operator can't do it knowingly or recklessly: so whether you the operator are aware of your position or unaware, you're in violation of the law if you are within 3 feet of the bicycle. It's you're responsibility to be aware of your own vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless within a reasonable distance, this part sort of leaves the end open so that each individual scenario can be evaluated. Less than 3 feet probably isn't reasonable unless you're going under 5 mph. So the bottom line is keep a reasonable and safe distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T00:26:49.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12918" CreationDate="2012-10-23T03:45:14.107" Score="2" ViewCount="1572" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two versions of the &quot;Topeak Explorer Tubular Frame Mounted Bicycle Rack&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'regular' (TA2026-B) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Racks/explorer_29er&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;29er&lt;/a&gt; (TA2042-B )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what would work best with my 700c hybrid bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in dimensions(Size (L x W x H) 42 x 17 x 41.5 cm vs 34 x 14.2 x 41.5 cm)  seems a little odd as they both support the MTX QuickTrack™ System. I do plan to get an MTX trunk bag for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3764" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T21:39:44.857" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T12:47:55.890" Title="Topeak Explorer Tubular Rack two versions confusion" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;topeak&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12884" CreationDate="2012-10-23T04:38:23.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Equinox makes a larger version of a child carrier for passengers up to 200 lbs.  See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.equinoxtrailers.com/store/item/19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.equinoxtrailers.com/store/item/19&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5335" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T04:38:23.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12904" CreationDate="2012-10-23T04:39:38.157" Score="3" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Gravity Swift 2 that I got off Bikesdirect.  Somehow I lost the left front axle nut.  I have been to two LBSs and neither of them have (or have even seen) an axle nut this size.  I e-mailed the company and searched on Google but haven't gotten a response back yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anywhere to find a nut with these specs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I can't find this nut, will I have to replace the wheel(s)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5334" LastEditorUserId="5334" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T04:47:52.853" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T12:44:39.030" Title="Where can I find a 9mm x 26thread axle nut?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-23T08:26:30.000" Score="9" ViewCount="5374" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I turn I usually shift my weight on the same side I'm turning to. To ease the discussion let's &lt;em&gt;assume we are turning left&lt;/em&gt;, on a paved road (no mud/gravel/potholes/grease/oil/ice/door traps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would lower the right foot, move my bottom to the left and this is sufficient to tilt the bicycle to the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I have seen other people doing different things (remember we are turning to the left):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some people do the same as I do, but in addition they stick their left knee sideways. I tried (when nobody was watching) but don't see any advantage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some other people instead move their bottom to the right and then (I think using their hands) they tilt the bicycle to the left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having given this context (but feel free to add more styles/methods) I wonder what's the best way to take a turn, primarily in terms of speed, but I'm also interested in safety, when I can activate my brain enough (sometimes happens).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5278" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T06:08:36.400" Title="How do you shift your weight when leaning on a turn?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12901" CreationDate="2012-10-23T09:07:13.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that the knee thing won't give you any real advantage and is more or less some imitation of the &quot;coolness&quot; of motorcycle racers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing, where you push your bike down into the turn while keeping your body more upright has some advantages when used in the right situation. On a paved road -- as pointed out in your question -- it shouldn't make a difference. However, on loose or slippery ground pushing your bike down will give you more safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of riding through a sharp turn where in the &quot;standard configuration&quot; (bike and rider lean into the turn by the same angle) you have to lean into the turn quite far. If your tires lose grip now, you will slip away and dump like a bag of rice as you have quite little possibilities to react. However, if you push the bike down and keep your body more upright it will be easier to get a foot on the ground when your bike slips away. Therefore you can in best case regain control and drive on or in a worse case let your bike go and try to catch yourself safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T09:24:57.877" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T09:24:57.877" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12901" CreationDate="2012-10-23T09:07:50.247" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this relates quite nicely to motorbikes where you corner at very high speeds and I'll give a run-down of the techniques, why they are useful and how they apply, and how they might apply to cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when turning left:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You shift your weight over on the seat and tilt the bike left. This allows the centre of gravity to be slightly lower, aiding in stability and keeps the contact patch of the tyre to road more central.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sticking your left knee out also. This is done for two reasons, firstly (if you're wearing knee protection) it can give an indication of when you're leant over too far (your knee touches the floor). Secondly it works like an air brake (for additional braking) and also will start pulling you towards the direction you are going slightly. You have to be going pretty fast for this to be effective, but it can help if you're racing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I can't see any benefit of tilting the bike over whilst staying more upright. Higher centre of gravity, less control. It might be a sub-conscious impulse to not falling over low-side.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tip for cornering fast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When going into a corner and you feel like you may run wide, or want to tuck into the apex a little more, turn the handlebars in the opposite direction to the turn (right) just a little. This is called 'counter-steering' and will cause the bike to tip over more and turn in a little harder. This can be a life saving technique if there is a car coming the other way or is overtaking you. Don't over do it though ;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, ultimate safety tip: never brake and turn at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: I've been riding high performance motorcycles for about 5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5171" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T09:07:50.247" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12900" CreationDate="2012-10-23T10:09:06.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepartsplace.com/brands/formula/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; they sell &quot;Formula&quot; hubs, which are the ones you should have. Dropping a message and asking for replacement nuts won't do any harm. Otherwise you could buy a whole new hub and cannibalize the nut from it. It is certainly cheaper and easier than either buying a whole new wheel or (Holy spanner spare us) replacing the whole hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answering to your second point. Let's assume you cannot find the correct nut. If you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; (or you &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt;) experience in replacing wheels' axles AND if you have the correct tools (cone spanners 13, 15 and 17mm, spanners 15mm and 17mm, a vice, grease) then it is certainly worth looking for a replacement axle. You should be able to find one quite easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck anyways!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T10:09:06.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3545" CreationDate="2012-10-23T12:24:55.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The captain's weight hardly pushes the rear wheel down at all, while the stoker's weight is almost completely on the rear wheel, so check their weight is positioned correctly. If the stoker is standing up, this can shift weight off the rear wheel, making a skid more likely. Standing up on tandems is &quot;advanced&quot;, some would add &quot;insanity&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T12:24:55.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12900" CreationDate="2012-10-23T12:32:16.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell whether you are talking about the nut that sits on the outside of the forks or on the inside (that locks against the cones to keep the hub together).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can make it to any bike shop they should be able to hook you up with the missing nut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you absolutely must order online, amazon probably has something for both: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003B6MK30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Track Nut&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006EPP6Z4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lock Nut&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T12:32:16.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12900" CreationDate="2012-10-23T12:44:39.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to check out are your local hardware store.  They tend to have much more exotic parts and have huge catalogs of parts they can order from.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T12:44:39.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12893" CreationDate="2012-10-23T12:59:50.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to rig something up with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dx.com/p/usb-hub-and-warmer-with-4-port-usb-1-1-hub-3195?item=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;USB hot plate&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dx.com/p/4-x-18650-batteries-emergency-charger-w-led-illumination-light-usb-port-for-iphone-ipad-white-128888?item=58&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;battery powered USB Charger&lt;/a&gt;. This probably wouldn't work for cooking, as it only gets to 50-60 degrees but might work pretty well for heating food which has already been cooked.  You could also use the battery pack for other things too, like charging USB bike lights.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T12:59:50.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12893" CreationDate="2012-10-23T13:49:17.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it would be convenient or practical to use any kind of stove or hotplate while you are actually riding. If you are carrying a backpack or have things on a rack a propane backpacking stove can be very fast for creating a hot meal on a break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cook/warm while you are actually riding I think your best bet would be to use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mreinfo.com/us/mre/frh.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flameless Ration Heater&lt;/a&gt; like you find included in many military-style Meals Ready to Eat (MREs). I think you would still want to assemble the FRH and MRE into a packet and attach them to a rack while you ride because the packaging can get pretty warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T13:49:17.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6434" CreationDate="2012-10-23T14:33:43.137" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;WD40 will work, for awhile, but in the longer term it'll work against you since it's a poor lubricant and will work to prevent future lubing. Spraying some penetrating oil into the ratcheting mechanism is the way to go, long and short term. Gaining access by working the brake on the shifter and spraying, using a long neck attachment for better aim, into the little hole, opposite the cable side, that you can see when applying the brake, leading to the gear ratchet will do the job. Zimm's confirms this, as does my local bicycle shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just did this on an Ultegra gear shifter, using &quot;Super Lube&quot;, and now the shifter works like new. After it evaporates it leaves a extremely thin layer that is highly slick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5341" LastEditorUserId="5341" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:48:07.307" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:48:07.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12921" CreationDate="2012-10-23T16:05:10.403" Score="3" ViewCount="1664" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being a car guy and autocrosser, I'm familiar with suspension systems and the necessity to find a balanced spring/shock combination to create the best possible compliance, ride quality and performance in the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I can't help but think that the Isospeed technology on the new Trek Domane is a little odd as it's essentially all spring and no damper.  Aren't you going to essentially have undamped motion while riding? For example, you can see the bounce in this video... &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/gP6hgLc6Flg?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't ridden one of these bikes yet, but I'm not sure if a short test ride would be enough to make a proper assessment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I know this isn't exactly a conventional spring.  So I suppose my question is if there's anything about Isospeed that gives it some sort of damping characteristics to minimize excessive bounce?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2275" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T21:00:58.223" Title="Trek Domane and undamped motion with Isospeed?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12914" CreationDate="2012-10-23T17:05:37.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be willing to bet that whatever characteristics Trek gave that frame, those are exactly the characteristics that Trek wanted the bike to have. That man appears to be flexing the frame as hard as he can to get it to bounce. A video of a guy on a trainer isn't going to reveal much of anything useful in the real world. If you want to know how the bike does, you really do have to take it for your own test drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd take the bouncing motion in the video with a grain of salt. The Domane is said to be very well designed and road worthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T17:05:37.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12893" CreationDate="2012-10-23T19:07:50.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your most practical solution here would be to cook almost anything you wanted ahead of time and carry it in a stanley thermos or a similarly durable insulated carrier. There is a good reason that you have never seen anyone cooking food while riding a bike before, it's not safe or practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T19:07:50.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12897" CreationDate="2012-10-23T20:28:03.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;29&quot; and 700c rims are the same diameter (iso 622mm). Primarily, the difference in width and length is to accommodate wider MTB frame stays and tires...I'd stick with the TA2026-B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T20:28:03.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6434" CreationDate="2012-10-23T21:17:04.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what I did that resolves the issue of &quot;WD40 is not a lub&quot; My problem was RX shifters that did not work at all after a few of years of storage - They were throw-away if I could not get them working, so I considered that WD40 was acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WD40 - did not work. After 2 days still got no movement, so pulled out the big guns &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aerosol Engine degrease - can be anything that dissolves the dried and ineffective grease, toyed with using brake cleaner (I had a can on the shelf). It does not need to be a lube - the idea here is to get ride of the stuff that does not work anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleanup with lot's of hot soapy water. No cleaning residues left inside the shifter. Now working but obviously metal one metal... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aerosol Grease. This is magic - it has a light carrier that gets it to places you cannot normally get grease - which then evaporates away, but being a grease, is the right stuff for the shifter. It's better than oils and teflon lubes etc, as it's a higher pressure lube than those, and the shifter has very high pressure contact points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will get away with WD40 and oils, but this will cause the shifter components to wear out faster (and probably won't be a smooth). The wear issue may or may not be  a problem you are concerned with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T20:51:37.773" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T20:51:37.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12914" CreationDate="2012-10-24T11:52:02.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you already suggest the behaviour is not that of a conventional spring. Compared to a conventional spring I would expect it to have some quite high internal damping so it may have characteristics similar to a spring/shock combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T11:52:02.257" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12864" CreationDate="2012-10-24T14:15:00.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the other two state, consulting a specialist first is a good idea.  If there truly is something wrong (not just minor inflamation) you'll save yourself a lot of time and headache by getting an early diagnosis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, tTreatment largely depends on the factors that have caused the pain.  Are you a power lifter or someone who runs 80 miles a week?  Do you lift heavy things at work all day?  Are you arthritic?  The first step is to identity the activity\ailment that has caused the pain and either stop the acdtivity completely or cut back drastically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, begin &lt;strong&gt;strengthening&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;stretching&lt;/strong&gt; the hamstrings &lt;strong&gt;and quadriceps&lt;/strong&gt; by way of low weight high rep exercises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to some hamstring exercieses that I swear by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trainwithmeonline.com/Exercises/Fitness/Videos/Hamstring/Medicine-Ball&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trainwithmeonline.com/Exercises/Fitness/Videos/Hamstring/Medicine-Ball&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5346" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T14:15:00.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12901" CreationDate="2012-10-24T14:26:49.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to turning on a bicycle, the two most important things you can do are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep your weight as close to the bike as possible&lt;/strong&gt;.  Simply put, your center of gravity should be as close to your bike as possible.  If your turning left and sitting straight up with your torso haning off to the right of the bike the turn is going to be much more difficult to negotiate.  You don't have to hunch down with your nose to the bar like a PRO, but you should do your best to keep your weight close to your bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look where you want to go&lt;/strong&gt;.  This may seem silly, but beginner cyclists almost never do this.  Before entering a turn look &lt;strong&gt;through&lt;/strong&gt; the turn to where you want to end up and keep your head and eyes on that spot.  You'll be amazed how your body and bike will follow your eyes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it out at slower speeds in a low (or no) traffic area to get a feel for it.  There's no shame in going to a local office park in the evening (when everyone has gone home for the day) and putting out some cones to practice going around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly be safe...going into a turn at 30mph is no time to start experimenting with cornering technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5346" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T14:26:49.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2012-10-24T14:50:24.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether or not to get a triple really depends on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fitness level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Geography in riding area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purpose of buying a bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't (currently) in cycling shape then a triple is a really good idea.  If you are buying a bike for recreation and to hoping to improve your fitness, the last thing you'll care about is saving a few grams on a lighter crank with less gearing options.  What you will care about is having a bike that will allow you to ride wherever you want to go without having to make the decision of &quot;oh no, here comes that hill that I can't go up because I don't have the right gearing&quot;.  That said even with a triple there are still bound to be hills that an unfit cyclist won't be able to ride up (I live in Boulder, CO and there are a few climbs that even &quot;fit&quot; cyclists have a hard time going up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Geography plays a huge part in gearing.  Like I said I live in Boulder, CO and primarily use a compact double for training (a compact double has easier gearing than a regular double).  I use a regular double for most racing, but have been known to race with a compact.  It's pretty common to see cyclists around here using triples as there are some pretty stiff (and long) climbs in the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's your reason for buying a bike?  Training for a century?  Getting back in shape?  Commuting?  Getting into cycling and hoping to do some racing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, there is no right\wrong answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to get the bike shop to let you demo a bike with a double for the weekend and do some riding.  If you feel like you need more gears, get a triple crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5346" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T14:50:24.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12893" CreationDate="2012-10-24T15:03:21.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allen Lim, one of the most sought after nutritionists in professional cycling, made the concept of &quot;eating your calories, not drinking them&quot; popular in the pro peloton over the last decade.  He basically found that when riders in say the Tour de France would eat real food during the day instead of eating processed pho food, they would perform better (and be happier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially he says that instead of drinking caloric crap laden sports drinks (and gels, and bars) you should drink to stay hydrated, and eat real food to get calories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an ultra endurance athlete I found that revolutionary for my training and racing.  Now, instead of drinking gatorade\similar and eating gels\bars\gummy things, I drink water and water + electolyte mix and eat things like boiled potatoes with salt, sweet potatoes with salt, bananas, pb + j, dried fruit, etc, and my favorite: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/12/news/video-learn-to-make-allen-lims-famous-rice-cakes_200812&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Allen Lim's Rice Cakes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many varietes of the rice cakes from egg\sausage savory cakes to apple cinnoman sweet rice cakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically all you have to do is load up a couple of zip locks full of food, stuff it in your jersey pocket, and off you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do some googling to find the other rice cake recipes and get the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1934030767&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FeedZone cookbook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;  Disclaimer, I do personally know Allen Lim or Biju Thomas and in no way stand to profit from the purchasing of the above mentioned cook book.  The simple fact is that my racing\training has changed drastically for the better thanks to following some of the simple guidelines that he lays out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5346" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T15:03:21.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12914" CreationDate="2012-10-24T18:24:11.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say the rider is the damper, since that few milimeters of travel can easily be &quot;swallowed&quot; by rider's action/body after he got used to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I ride very rough streets with an old steel road bike, and for sure, based on what rough streets feel like to me while on the bike, I would love to ride a bike behaving as the one shown in this video.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T18:24:11.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12914" CreationDate="2012-10-24T21:00:58.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just found this from a carbon fiber leaf spring manufacturer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In comparison with steel leaf springs they have significantly greater&#xA;  spring action,  &lt;strong&gt;higher internal damping&lt;/strong&gt; and a more balanced springing&#xA;  behaviour, with a many times greater retention capacity of elastic&#xA;  energy than spring steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prause-durotec.de/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=52&amp;amp;Itemid=59&amp;amp;lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.prause-durotec.de/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=52&amp;amp;Itemid=59&amp;amp;lang=en&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how much of an influence this internal damping of carbon fiber really has.  But it does make more sense to me now.  I can see how the Domane could work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2275" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T21:00:58.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11184" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:52:08.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I decided to take the plunge and try the tubeless wheels.  I've got about 80 miles of road and gravel riding on them now, and figured I should start formulating an answer.  I ended up using the stan's alpha 400 rim because of my weight and the lack of rim brake compatibility in their cross specific rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far it's been as advertised.  The tires can run at much lower pressures than I was able to run with tubes, to the point that if I come back onto the road I actually feel like the tire is going to tear off the rim when taking tight corners too fast (these are corners on neighborhood trails and such, it is not nearly as pronounced when riding on real roads).  The lower pressure lets the tires hook up &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; well off road - probably not as well as a wide set of tubulars but much better than the tubed tires I've used in the past.  So I would say yes, there are significant benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few gotchas to be aware of though, namely the lack of tire selection - the tires I wanted to run would not lock into the bead.  Even at low pressures they would blow off.  I ended up going with a set of (non-tubeless) continentals that my shop had lying around.  It took a while for sealant to permeate the tire, but they are working great now.  I think there are only a handful of tubeless specific cross tires at this time, but feel certain more will be coming.  With the alpha (road wheels) you also need a special rim strip (in addition to the yellow tape) for higher volume cross tires.  With some tires this is not needed (or even detrimental), but it ended up being needed for mine.  I'm sure you could jury-rig something but I would just plan on spending another $40 or so on these strips (just a rubber strip with a valve stem built in).  I've been told this is not needed with the iron cross rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All things considered, I think it was worth the hassle so far.  The stans wheels are great - very stiff when cornering, and I saved almost a pound at the rims off what my factory wheels weighed.  I will come back and post more once I've done some singletrack riding and a race or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt; - so I've done some singletrack riding and one race, and now I'm really starting to see the benefit.  The stans wheels don't really allow &lt;em&gt;super&lt;/em&gt; low pressures (I burped at about 22 psi while preriding the race course) but they feel great at 30.  This is for a 220 lb rider with 35mm tires, using the rubber strips.  The wheels hooked up really well on the slick grass course, and held up well to dismounts/remounts.  At this point I'm ready to call the experiment a success.  Looking back the only thing I would have done differently is go with a tubeless-specific tire (it took a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; time for sealant to sufficiently permeate the non-tubeless tires I used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastEditorUserId="3016" LastEditDate="2012-11-19T15:06:10.080" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T15:06:10.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12893" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:56:32.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cooking while riding doesn't seem practical or safe! &quot;Carbo loading&quot; before the ride and taking in more carbs during the ride from the multitude of energy bars available would be a better choice. Staying hydrated using your favorite drink is also important. The only &quot;hot&quot; meals I can think of are some of the MRE's that are chemically heated, but this would likely still require a short break off of the bike for safety reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5351" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:56:32.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2012-10-25T05:36:06.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really enjoy riding singlespeed. Much more relaxing, you don't have to think about changing gear, you just pedal, and if you want to go faster, you pedal faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's much faster too, heaps less friction, according to wikipedia it's 10-15% more efficient. I run a 52-20 and it's good up til about 45-50 kph. Lots less maintainance, lighter, quieter. Looks much cleaner too. I really like the non maintance side of things. They are actually faster on the flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5352" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T05:36:06.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12756" CreationDate="2012-10-25T07:21:10.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the wheel keeps on failing - for some unidentified reason - you have to review the variables: &#xA;  - the rim &#xA;  - the hub &#xA;  - the spokes&#xA;  - the construction &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description it's probably not the rim and, like @Daniel says, 'burrs on the hub' sounds like some fake techno-jargon you're being fobbed off with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It certainly sounds like the spokes are failing to do the job the wheel builder is expecting of them. I'm a similar size and when I had some wheels made recently the builder used &lt;strong&gt;tandem spokes&lt;/strong&gt; for their extra strength. Every little helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it sounds like, unless you've a particular reason to keep with them, finding another shop might keep you safe and sane - and a second opinion is rarely a bad thing in this sort of situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T07:21:10.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13033" CreationDate="2012-10-25T07:45:02.490" Score="4" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;So today is the first day of snow here in Norway, and I had prepared well for this day. My Giant Cyclocross has new spiked tires and i've done a check on all components, they are ready for the winter-commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got to my first climb on my way to work today, I noticed my right shifter wasn't working. I got Shimano Sora shifters, and Tiagra derailleurs. I could flip the shifter, but the gear wouldn't stick. If I held the shifter flipped, the gear would lower, but as I released it, it would jump right back. This happened after just 5 minutes outside in the heavy snowfall. It was as if the mechanical inside the shifter wasn't working. &#xA;I store my bike indoors at home, so my bike wasn't frozen when I got on, and I don't think its below 0Celcius outside even. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is only a year old, and I haven't had any big troubles with either shifters or derailleurs before. This is my first year riding it in the snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a common problem with the cheap shifters? Is there anything I can do to help/prevent sticky shifting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: It seemed I could shift into a heavier gear without problem (loosening cable tention), but shifting into a lighter gear( thightening cable) was close to impossible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: After the whole day inside my shifter still won't work. I'll open the shifter up this weekend and see if I can find the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4880" LastEditorUserId="4880" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T07:41:23.257" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T20:25:00.247" Title="Shimano Sora shifter having trouble in the snow" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2012-10-25T08:42:23.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road bike don't need disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a Marin lightweight hybrid and a touring tandem. Both use V-brakes on the rims. The tandem has tungsten-carbide rims, but there's nothing special about those on my solo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, unless I'm carrying a lot of luggage, I can brake hard enough to make the wheels skid on a dry road, so any additional power would be wasted, but then I am fairly light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason rim brakes can be so powerful without hydraulics is simply because they act further from the pivot point, the hub. This means they get more leverage. It's also the reason that larger disks are more efficient than smaller ones. A larger piece of metal as a braking surface also helps with heat dissipation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory you could get the same advantages by having a disk nearly as large as your wheel, but this would be heavy and impractical. Instead it makes sense to use the rim you already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2020-08-21T21:25:55.690" LastActivityDate="2020-08-21T21:25:55.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12936" CreationDate="2012-10-25T09:04:45.643" Score="4" ViewCount="2543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently ordered some Sidi Scarpe Zephyr Cycling Road Shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely fit perfectly, however I've noticed there is a sliding bar element on the bottom of the shoe and I cant work out what it is for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to fit some look delta cleats on them, for use in the velodrome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best explanation is it has the standard look cleat holes, 3 main holes in a triangle shape. However there is one vertical slot (about 2cm) in the middle of the 3 holes, that has a sliding mechansism within it, i cant work out what it is for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T15:24:08.063" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T15:24:08.063" Title="What is the sliding bar on the bottom of my road shoe for?" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12935" CreationDate="2012-10-25T11:17:22.067" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems that is the &lt;em&gt;Look Memory Eyelet&lt;/em&gt;, where you can attach some kind of tab to help get replacement cleats in the same position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lookcycle.com/en/us/route/cales/keo-grip.html&quot;&gt;This Keo page&lt;/a&gt; seems to have a video on the subject, but I can't view it immediately ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T11:17:22.067" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12741" CreationDate="2012-10-25T11:56:25.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll post the results as an answer although I've already accepted a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt extractor did not help me. That's because the bolt was so tight on its nut. I think that the bolt had made a bond with the nut. It was impossible to unscrew it. Initially any attempt to hook the extractor resulted in more alumenium material from the bolt to be extracted. Then I drilled a smaller whole in the center of the bolt and tried with a smaller extractor. It broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also drilled a torx pattern on the bolt's head but the torx also melted the aluminium of the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up drilling the hell out of the bolts back end where it binds to the nut. When I've drilled a complete circle around the threads of the bolt and nut, I could hammer the bolt out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T11:56:25.120" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12894" CreationDate="2012-10-25T12:39:13.793" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may not seem very concrete to you, but if you think about it, it is very powerful indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine a collision between a car and a bike. With no such law in place you might expect there to be some argument about whose fault it was etc. etc. and as cyclists we all know from experience who's likely to come off worst...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you put such a law in place and when you have a collision, the motorist has broken the law by default because they couldn't have been the required distance. I'm sure there would be circumstances where the motorist could argue that the cyclist was riding like a dick, but they would be forced to make that argument, you wouldn't start from a 50/50 position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People have been talking about this kind of thing in the UK for years in order to make cycling safer, but nothing has ever been done. In fact I think this is the first form of words I've seen that achieves this goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T12:39:13.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-25T15:09:16.867" Score="1" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my back wheel on one side balls won't fit! I am 100% certain they are the same balls I took out easily with the magnet on my screwdriver several weeks ago to mail my bike home.  They are 1/4&quot; balls.  I'm afraid if I get new balls, they wouldn't fit either since they are not worn any smaller.  I even tried freezing the balls to shrink them and get them in, but that didn't work.  Can I use 15/64&quot; balls?  They don't seem to fit the curve of the cone snugly anyway, but they do seem to fit the cup.  I don't really want to take a ball out since it leaves such a large gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T16:00:34.253" Title="Can I replace my 1/4&quot; wheel bearings with slightly smaller ones?" Tags="&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12939" CreationDate="2012-10-25T15:18:54.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is extremely difficult to put even slightly worn ball bearing back into a hub. Over time they start to wear slightly unevenly, sometimes too slightly to be seen by the naked eye but slightly enough to make it difficult to line up again. You might need to take your wheel to an expert this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T15:18:54.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12939" CreationDate="2012-10-25T16:00:34.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure you're putting in the right number of balls?  Generally, when a bearing is new there is about a half-ball space left when you have a full complement of balls.  As the bearing wears this gets to be closer to a full ball's space.  It's easy to see the space and think you should put in another ball, but you don't need one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(To hold the balls in place, of course, dab some grease into the race.  Place the balls in the grease, and install the greased cone.  This makes it fairly easy to reassemble a hub.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T16:00:34.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12708" CreationDate="2012-10-25T21:07:30.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I finally got the eccentric out of the frame today (it turned out that I really did just need to mallet it harder).  The reason that both cups were turning was that they both screw into a cylindrical sleeve, and this sits in the eccentric casing.  The sleeve doesn't seem to have anything preventing it rotating (apart from rust and grime) so when I tried to turn one cup the whole sleeve rotated.  I haven't yet managed to get the cups out of the sleeve, so I don't know what's in there.  I've put pictures of the eccentric here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/88429902@N04/sets/72157631852885547/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/88429902@N04/sets/72157631852885547/&lt;/a&gt;, just in case anyone's interested!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to everyone else that replied - lots of helpful people here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5142" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T21:07:30.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-26T08:36:59.847" Score="2" ViewCount="1937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have knee problems, and I've noticed that the seat position that makes it possible for my leg to not be absolutely straight at the bottom of the stroke causes my knee to pop up a bit higher than my hip at the top of the stroke, and I can &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; it. Biking should not cause me more knee pain than downhill skiing, but it does. I think that switching to a shorter crank would help. For my leg length, about 155mm-160mm looks about right, according to the various calculators I've seen linked here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm at a loss for actually finding said crankset. Has anyone run into moderately-priced (under $400) cranksets that are either built with short cranks or have them available to be attached?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer a 3-ring mountain bike set with fairly wide gear spacing(?), since I'm more of a woods and gravel trails tourer than road racer, and this place is really hilly :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, are there any ready-made women's/older children's bikes with crankarms in this range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5363" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T07:22:42.367" Title="What are the current options for short crank arms?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12945" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T09:26:18.910" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T09:26:18.910" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T09:26:18.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12946" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T09:26:18.910" Score="0" Body="Any bicycle with more than one person simultaneously providing power. Includes trandems and other unusual variants." OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T10:58:37.420" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T10:58:37.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12950" CreationDate="2012-10-26T10:08:03.460" Score="20" ViewCount="114104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mountain bike with 1.95 tyres on it. Most of the cycle path I take into work is fairly well paved/asphalted, I'm not going over any dirt tracks or anything like that although there is the odd bit of poorly maintained asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a couple of hills that are steep but not long, for the most part it's fairly flat though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much of a difference would I notice if I bought a road bike for my daily commute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2020-08-31T08:17:11.680" Title="How much of a difference will I notice going from a Mountain bike to a road bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12951" CreationDate="2012-10-26T11:58:21.963" Score="3" ViewCount="1494" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've got a tandem with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rigida-andra-30-26-%28559%29-mtb-css-rim-black-32-hole-rohloff-drilling-prod13269/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rigida Andara CSS tungsten carbide rims&lt;/a&gt; and Swisstop Blue v-brake pads. We're happy with the performance and life of both of these over the last 1000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; Swisstop Blue blocks are recommended. I've been led to believe that other blocks will wear out too quickly on tungsten carbide rims, possibly leaving a rubbery deposit on the rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know of more than one manufacturer or supplier (preferably in the UK) who can provide suitable replacement v-brake block cartridges, so that I have options if the Swisstop ones are unavailable or become expensive. I don't like being tied to a single brand for what should hopefully be quite long-lived rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any reasonable alternatives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:21:04.807" Title="What are the alternatives to SwissStop Blue v-brake pads" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12944" CreationDate="2012-10-26T12:01:34.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There aren't many options out there for cranks shorter than 165mm. Your best bet is to buy a set of longer crankarms and get them shortened at a service like &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/shorten.html&quot;&gt;Bikesmith Design&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are legitimately having knee problems, I'd suggest that you find a professional fit service in your area and have a fitting done. The length of your cranks may not be the issue, but it may be the size of your frame, position of seat, etc. Online calculators can be good, but a professional service will certainly address these issues in a more targeted way and perhaps save you from spending unnecessary money, modifications to parts and perhaps save you a lifetime of pain or discomfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T12:01:34.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12947" CreationDate="2012-10-26T12:33:31.560" Score="29" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will find the journey a lot less effort, as you are dramatically reducing the weight of the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will also be able to accelerate much faster, as the rolling resistance will be reduced through the use of thinner tyres.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your gearing is likely to allow for faster speeds as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you previously had suspension, you will notice the ability to accelerate, brake and turn is much better, and more precise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will rapidly learn how uncomfortable bumps are so you will have to get used to dodging round stones, potholes etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T09:18:10.170" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T09:18:10.170" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12948" CreationDate="2012-10-26T13:21:04.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolstop.eu/index.php?id=63&amp;amp;L=1&quot;&gt;Kool stop R9 Magura HS33&lt;/a&gt; Pads are made to work with Rigida CSS rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/koolstop-koolstop-v-brake-block-inserts-for-rigida-carbide-rims-prod19778/&quot;&gt; V-Brake inserts &lt;/a&gt; by kool stop for Rigida CSS rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:21:04.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12947" CreationDate="2012-10-26T14:10:11.493" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before you go out and buy anything shiny and new, why not try a short term investment in some 26&quot; Conti Gatorskins at 1.25&quot; for your mtb? (You'll probably need a new pair of innertubes as well) Try commuting on these and I bet you'll notice a big improvement on 1.95&quot; tyres, just by making this relatively inexpensive change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Then go out and spend a few thousand dollars on a carbon road bike and it'll be better still!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T14:10:11.493" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4979" CreationDate="2012-10-26T14:48:59.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd wash my bike with a water jet spray as long as you dont point it towards the sealed bearings. I did that to most of my bikes and they still last. As a point to ponder, water does not destroy your bearings, its the dust and dirt that does the thing. But pressurized water may force through the sealed bearings and push away all your grease out of it, making it dry all round. As long as there is grease, then your bearings will last. Water jet is a better way to clean tight areas such as chains and gears. Remember to always relube and lube and lube them after each wash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is that detergents arent good for your bearings too. Once they get in the seals, it wont be possible to wash them out. These detergents will decrease the efficiency of your grease for your bearings, worse like dirt and dust.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After each wash, I'll use compressed air to quickly dry the chains and gears as well. And bear in mind that you MUST NOT point the pressurized air to the bearings or seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, then you will have a wise, fast and amply safe enough method to clean your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be more safe, go get some knowledge on how to assemble/disassemble your bike. When you aren't confident enough with the seals, dissemble it and regrease it. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5366" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T14:48:59.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12947" CreationDate="2012-10-26T15:10:41.847" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will notice 3 major differences right away, with other difference you can &lt;strong&gt;optionally&lt;/strong&gt; implement in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road bikes gernally are much lighter than mountain bikes. Less weight means you can go further or faster with the same amount of effort you put into your mountain bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road bikes have much narrower tires (compared to a mountain bike) with much higher pressure. This means you have much less rolling resistance on a road bike. Once again, you can go further or faster with the same amount of effort you put into your mountain bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your riding position on a road bike is much more aerodynamic than it is on a mountain bike. Thus you can go further or faster with the same amount of effort you put into your mountain bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the stock differences. Optionally you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add toe clips or cleated pedals to your bike. Locking your foot to the pedal increases the efficiency of your biking. This can make it another 10% easier to ride your road bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add aero bars- if you bike in the wind often, or ride fairly fast, adding aero bars gives you an additional biking position with lower wind resistance. This can make it another 10% easier to ride your road bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T15:10:41.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12947" CreationDate="2012-10-26T16:33:40.607" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much difference, you asked. When I started to ride skinny tires, I noticed the far places, the ones I took too long to reach, became very close and I could get there fast with way less effort. It's like distance and time were distorted to my favor, like StarWars time travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside, as already said: it seems like you spent too much time fighting boxe with padded protections, then suddenly you are bare-hands and bare-face, flying at 35+ mph around treacherous obstacles you can no longer ignore, balancing over a twitchier, harsher handlebar where brake levers are not reachable all the time. Anyway, it's impressive how much abuse a 23mm tire can endure if the rims are solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the novelty passes, though, one ends up knowing, respecting and admiring strengths and weaknesses of either bike type, also being able to assemble, if wanted, a whole colorful range of possible hybrid setups, or even using either type of bike outside its expected primary application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T16:33:40.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-26T16:49:36.217" Score="7" ViewCount="2701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride MTB in a coastal town where all roads are dirt roads with lots of uphill/downhill. Nothing extreme, I just ride to relax and enjoy the landscape. I have mechanical disc brakes and after a 2-4 hours ride session my hands hurt (too much braking). I have never ridden with hydraulic brakes, but it seems to me that they will be easy on my hands. Should I change to hydraulics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T00:42:32.260" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T19:02:19.740" Title="Would hydraulic disc brakes be easier on my hands than mechanical disc brakes?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6444" CreationDate="2012-10-26T16:54:44.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add on to what Wilka said about hydroplaning, people involved with the physics of planes landing are particularly interested in hydroplaning. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#hydroplaning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown of course talks about this.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Even with automobiles, actual hydroplaning is very rare. It is a much more real problem for aircraft landing on wet runways. The aviation industry has studied this problem very carefully, and has come up with a general guideline as to when hydroplaning is a risk. The formula used in the aviation industry is:&#xA;  Speed (in knots) = 9 X the square root of the tire pressure (in psi.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a chart &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nlr-atsi.nl/downloads/hydroplaning-of-modern-aircraft-tires.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which on page 9 includes this plot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yuS85.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hydroplaning&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that at the pressures we operate at ones risk of hydroplaning is negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your concerns about flipping, Sheldon Brown has a very informative page, &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html#overthebars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Won't I Go Over The Bars?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, which details why you should not be concerned with flipping over the handlebars if you are using your front brake appropriately, and shows that when traction is not an issue using &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; your front brake is the &lt;em&gt;fastest&lt;/em&gt; way you can stop. He also speaks about braking in the conditions your asking about (traction impaired).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as I am not braking on a manhole cover I have never had issues stopping in the rain on 23C slick tires using just my front brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5368" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T21:03:23.013" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T21:03:23.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12719" CreationDate="2012-10-26T17:13:23.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ridden RAGBRAI 3 times and ask myself the same question each time. (and I am 62).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from what everyone else here has said, I find training to be essential. For a 2 day 180 mile ride I would recommend that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have riddent at least 700, preferably 1000 miles that season prior to the ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have riddent at least 2 back to back training rides. Say the 2 weekends before your ride ride 40 - 50 miles Sat and 40 - 50 miles again on Sun. Do that 2 weekends in a row and you will have the confidence (and miles) to finish your 180 mile ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydration- everyone has mentioned eating (which is very important), but make sure to drink! If you don't have to pee during the first days ride you aren't drinking enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T17:13:23.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12947" CreationDate="2012-10-26T17:53:08.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference is HUGE! When you get on a set of skinny, hard, fast rolling, knob-less road tires, it will feel like your bicycle has been set free. The knobs on a low pressure mountain bike tire create and enormous amount of drag, when you no longer have to push against them the difference will be unbelievable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also notice you are no longer riding with your chest stuck out like a sail. You will find the new, sleeker, aerodynamic profile allows you to maintain your speed with much less effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also notice the ride on the skinnier, harder, road bike tires is much rougher going over bumps and potholes. This drawback is well worth not having the drag. You may compromise by getting a fatter tire than allows for lower air pressure and gives you more cushion but I prefer the reduced drag hard and skinny tires give you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably notice the road bike is lighter and with your lighter bike and less tire drag it is much easier to accelerate on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going up steep hills you will probably notice the gearing on the road bike is higher and may miss the lower gearing unless you road bike is equipped with a touring gearing (3rd smaller inner ring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably not notice the lack of tread, even on gravel bike trails. For the most most part the tread is not necessary on gravel bike paths but if you corner hard in gravel you will notice that your wheels wash out much easier, so take extra care when cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a traditional road racing type setup, you will notice the handlebar and braking setup is different and that it's even a little harder to stop. At first you will also find shifting is a bit confusing and may take a little time to get used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also find your riding position is a little less natural and a little less comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a road/commuter specific bike. You wont regret it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5173" LastEditorUserId="5173" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T19:04:04.090" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T19:04:04.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12957" CreationDate="2012-10-26T18:15:39.020" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have or have had bikes with mechanical rim brakes, mechanical disks (shimano deore), hydraulic discs (also shimano deore) and recently hydraulic rim brakes (Magura hs33).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The experience I had says that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The force you have to apply depends on brake-system preload / elastic constant (lever spring + actuator spring), cable friction, and actual, braking, pad friction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pad friction means how much decelerating power you'll get for a certain force applied by the pad against the braking surface. Good quality pads brake more with less force. Bad quality, or dirty, or whatever-else-not-ideal pads require more force to get the proper braking power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cable friction means, the more cable friction, the more force will be irreversibly lost between the lever and the actuator. At extreme cases, with very dirty/rusty cables, you get enough friction that you get an absolute maximum beyond which no additional force on the lever creates aditional force at the braking surface. THIS IS THE MAIN PLACE WHERE HYDRAULICS MAKE A DIFFERENCE: they always have a very low (inexistent?) cable friction, and that doesn't change even after miles and months in the muddy rain, for example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At last, system preloads mean the force you have to apply to the system BEFORE it even starts to break. For example, my Magura HS-33 has too much preloat at the lever, and if you ride lightly, only correcting speed now and then with the brakes, even so the hand gets tired, because even for a slight touch you have to overcome half the lever course of a relatively stiff spring preload, whereas on modern, race-oriented disc systems the lever action is so light that it seems like there is no actual brake connected to the lever (at least until the pads hit the disc, of course).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd say the hydraulic systems are well worth the upgrade, but unless some facts are taken into consideration, sometimes the magic might not happen, specially if the braking pads are not doing their job. Also, a v-brake with new and well tuned cables/cable-routers, killer pads and decent levers can beat most fancy disc brakes around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T18:15:39.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12901" CreationDate="2012-10-26T20:34:42.033" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is based on an incorrect assumption about how a bicycle makes turns. You say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;...move my bottom to the left and this is sufficient to tilt the bicycle to the left.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, what you are stating above is simply impossible in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bicycle can be thought of as a vehicle that is &quot;attached&quot; to the surrounding environment by an imaginary &quot;hinge&quot; at its very bottom point. I.e. the tire-ground contact areas are the only points of contact between the bicycle and anything stationary (&quot;the world&quot;). A bicycle riding in a straight line is essentially &lt;em&gt;hinged&lt;/em&gt; (like a door) by these two contact points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How, your body is the heaviest thing on the bicycle. Your body's center of gravity is located relatively high, i.e. relatively far from these hinge points. In this configuration trying to make your bike to lean to the left by shifting your body to the left is virtually &lt;em&gt;impossible&lt;/em&gt;. In fact, if you attempt to shift your weight to the left, the bicycle itself will reactively compensate by leaning to the &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; (!). To the right, not to the left. Try it sometime on a stationary bicycle (ask someone to gently hold it for you) and you will see what I mean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Trying to make a bike to lean to the &lt;em&gt;left&lt;/em&gt; by shifting your body weight to the &lt;em&gt;left&lt;/em&gt; is no different that trying to lift yourself up by pulling on your own shoelaces. It won't work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanics of the sustained turn on a bicycle is actually completely different. In order to make a &lt;em&gt;left&lt;/em&gt; turn you actually turn your handlebars (and the front wheel) to the &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; for a relatively short period of time. This makes the tire path of your bicycle to gradually shift to the right from under your body. How quickly it tracks to the right depends on the amplitude of the right turn of the handlebars. Meanwhile, the inertial properties of your body make sure that it doesn't shift anywhere. Your body mass continues to &quot;fly&quot; in a straight line. The combination of these two motions (body - straight, contact path - to the right) results in a left lean of the bicycle frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a key moment many bicyclists fail to understand: you initiate a left-leaning turn not by shifting your weight to the left (which, as I said above, is simply impossible), but rather by shifting the bicycle itself to the right. Your body does not shift anywhere. It is the bicycle that &quot;slides&quot; from under you by some controlled amount, thus creating a left lean and allowing you to enter the properly balanced left-leaning configuration for a left turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do with the specific configuration of your body itself does not make much of a difference (aerodynamic issues aside). Some riders believe that they have to keep their bodies upright in any turn (i.e the &quot;lean your bike, not your body&quot; rule). Some riders believe that the body should stay in the plane of the bike, i.e. that you should lean with the bike. Some riders might even prefer to &quot;overlean&quot; into the turn, although I see no good purpose in that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P.S.&lt;/strong&gt; The above mechanics of the left turn is actually why it is difficult (or even impossible) to initiate a &lt;em&gt;left&lt;/em&gt; turn when you are riding very close to the &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; edge of the road.  As I described above, in order to initiate the left lean you have to force your contact path to track to the right. However, if you have no extra room on the right-hand side, it becomes impossible: the wheels will either hit the curb or slide off the pavement. And this is actually what often happens to cyclists who find themselves in a situation when they have to make an emergency turn, and yet have no road available on the other side of the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P.P.S&lt;/strong&gt; It appears that the &quot;lean your bike, not your body&quot; rule helps some riders to gain more confidence while gong through &quot;scary&quot; turns. Another variation of that rule is &quot;keep most of your weight on the outside pedal&quot; and it serves the same purpose. It is intuitively less scary to perform a risky high-speed turn while following these rules. However, I personally don't believe it achieves anything beyond some immaterial feeling of greater safety and comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastEditorUserId="2918" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:14:38.557" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:14:38.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12901" CreationDate="2012-10-27T02:14:30.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We need to introduce some basic physics here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;angle of thrust&quot; -- the angle between the ground and the line running from the tire contact point up to the center of gravity of bike+rider -- is determined solely by the speed and the radius of the turn.  The downward pressure at the tire will, on a reasonably bump-free road, be precisely the weight of bike+rider (divided between the two tires, of course), while the outward pressure -- the tendency to skid out, as it were -- will be determined by the laws of centrifugal force.  If you know those two forces you can use the squaw on the hippopotamus to compute the &quot;thrust&quot; along the center-of-gravity line, and you can use trig to figure out what the angle to the horizontal is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So whether the cyclist leans in or out makes zero difference in the thrust (and tendency to want to skid out) -- it's purely determined by speed and turn radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an essentially cylindrical tire cross-section, the amount of friction (to resist skidding out) will be primarily determined by the coefficient of friction of the tire material and the downward weight on the tire.  Since a road tire has essentially the same coefficient of friction over its entire usable surface, the &quot;lean&quot; of the tire has little effect on traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be some degree of effect on traction based on how close to the rim one is, and how the tire is deforming -- it could be reasonably argued that as a tire is leaned and deforms sideways more it will &quot;squirm&quot; more, resulting in some loss of traction.  But this effect would be slight on high-pressure road tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two major effects to consider here are more mechanical.  One is the way the geometry of the bike+rider changes as the bike traverses minor bumps, and the other is the way that steering behaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to the bumps, consider two cases:  1) The bike is essentially vertical, with the rider leaning into the turn to achieve the right angle of thrust.  2) The rider attempts to stay vertical while leaning the bike (and necessarily the lower portion of his body) into the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first case, when a bump is encountered, the bike will be pushed upward, with the &quot;pivot&quot; of the rider's body bending to absorb the shock.  There will be little change in the overall &quot;geometry&quot; of the &quot;system&quot; (though there may be some change in the geometry of the rider's back, requiring chiropractic services to correct).  In the second case, the rider will remain relatively motionless while the angle of bike to road changes dramatically.  I think it's clear that, other factors being equal, the second case will result in a less stable behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to steering behavior, consider how much change in direction occurs for a minor change in steering angle.  With the bike essentially vertical the radius of the turn is determined almost completely by the steering angle.  It takes a relatively major change in steering angle to effect a change in turn radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, with the bike leaning the radius of the turn is affected by the curve of the bike tire -- as the steering angle increases the point at which the tire touches the road moves forward along the wheel diameter, so that a minor change in steering angle produces a much more pronounced change in turn radius.  But an interesting side-effect of this is that as the bike leans more it tends to turn more sharply, and turning more sharply increases outward thrust, tending to right the bike.  This results in a relatively stable steering configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The net-net of this to me is that on a relatively smooth road you'd want to lean the bike &quot;naturally&quot;, to achieve optimal stability (not only for speed/safety but also to reduce rider fatigue).  However, on a less ideal surface one might not want to lean so far.  (Of course, a relatively prudent rider would not ride as fast on poor surfaces anyway, so naturally there would be less leaning.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I suspect that a lot of how people ride (including the rider in that video) has to do more with body mechanics than bicycle mechanics.  On a long downhill the rider is taking the opportunity to rest, but also having to be ultra-alert to avoid wiping out.  Certain body configurations will permit more relaxation/recovery of the major muscles while at the same time optimizing control and the ability to comfortably &quot;ride out&quot; the shocks that one experiences at high speeds even on a &quot;smooth&quot; road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:14:30.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12965" CreationDate="2012-10-27T03:02:54.667" Score="3" ViewCount="1299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized Hard Tail 10' Model. When I ride and am shifting to the bigger gear on my front derailleur it isn't as smooth as it used to be or sometimes doesn't shift to the gear I'm going for. How can I fix this? Do I need to adjust my shifting cables and loosen my barrel adjusters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5370" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T04:10:28.707" Title="Why is my front Derailleur not shifting as smooth as it used to?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12964" CreationDate="2012-10-27T04:10:28.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you ride and shift your shifting cables stretch.  You can take up some of the slack by turning your barrel adjusters counter clockwise.  Eventually, you will reach the limit of what your barrel adjusters can handle.  At this point you will need to loosen the bolt that holds your shifter cable to the the derailleur and pull in the slack, then tighten the bolt back down.  Having the right tools for this job makes things much easier.  You should move your barrel adjusters almost all of the way back in (turn clockwise) before you do this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5371" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T04:10:28.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8998" CreationDate="2012-10-27T21:43:57.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first I read you to mean an off-center wheel plane, but not so. Interesting question, i.e. does a bike remain stable/rideable if rear axle is not symetrical? I guess yes, as long as front/rear wheels are in line, but practical clearance issues immediately become apparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tolerances in modern frames and wheel-drivetrain designs already nearly max out every clearance there is. 2mm is a huge gap, exceeding the clearance between chain and right rear seatstay in the smallest rear sprocket; since the wider rear hub of 130mm (135mm in tandems) years back, clearance between rider's ankles and the right chain stay can cause contact. Solutions to spoke issues have included narrower rear hub flanges, and asymetrical rear rims, as you mention, but I have seen no studies documenting significant weaknesses in either design solution; weaknesses instead occur in poor manufacturing criteria, quality control, loose spokes, etc. No studies (beyond pure theory) indicate a well-made rear wheel has a dramatically weaker resistance laterally from one side versus the other? Has there been a rash of left-turning rider crashes due to rear wheel failures I haven't heard about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mfg. insist on solving more non-existent problems (ie 47-sp rear cogsets) eventually every current frame will be obsolete, and your solution of a wider rear axle standard* will be reality, but not to solve your problem. It will instead create new problems, all of which will only be &quot;solvable&quot; by purchasing all-new bikes, totally incompatible with all that came before.&#xA;  * It's here - Shimano 11-sp rear hubs actually are about 1.5mm wider than 130, which is considered safe to cram into rigid carbon rear drop-outs. It may or may not provide for chain clearance on current frames, and requires all-new incompatible chain as well.&#xA;  Why are the frogs in the warming pot not screaming yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5374" LastEditorUserId="5374" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T22:02:07.430" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T22:02:07.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12944" CreationDate="2012-10-28T07:14:32.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9085/setting-up-a-bicycle-for-someone-with-restricted-knee-articulation&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question.  I asked it last year regarding my dads knee problems after a full knee replacement.  In summary I ended up getting some 152mm mountain bike cranks for about $20  (cheap steel ones - three chain rings 24/32/42 from memory, that cannot be replaced - from a kids bike- the LBS had to get them but otherwise not a problem), but there were a few useful (expensive) options suggested. Fortunately the $20 dollar solution worked, as the next options appears to be close to $500 - theres no middle ground here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T07:22:42.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12957" CreationDate="2012-10-28T08:13:18.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend giving your current brake installation a good service before considering spending money on an expensive upgrade.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydros are great (I have them on my bike and enjoy riding with them), but a well-maintained braking system should be more than adequate in all reasonable riding conditions.  Hydros would have advantages if you're into mountain riding as a sport, but for day-to-day use you probably won't notice much difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you've never changed your pads because they work.  A pad can last a good while to be sure, but they do tend to become gradually less effective as they wear (more force for the same braking needed).  You might want to look into changing the pads for fresh, good quality ones.  That should give an noticeable increase in breaking power.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, the discs or rims that the pads press against can wear, though that's very unlikely to be a factor unless the brakes in question are very old.  What is more likely to have an impact is dirt and other contaminates on the braking surface.  Mud and dirt, lubricating oil from your bike, the remains of old brake pad material and what have you can build up on the surface.  If you clean the surface thoroughly then you should notice further improvements in the stopping power of your brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable in mechanical systems can stretch, fray, rust and so on.  As it's a mechanical moving part it also needs to be properly lubricated.  As the cable stretches with use you should adjust the brakes to counter.  You should also apply some kind of lubricating grease or wax to the exposed portions of the metal cable with the brake in both the released and applied state.  Finally, if there's any sign of rust or fraying in the cable, get it replaced immediately!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this maintenance should make a very noticeable improvement in the stopping power of your brakes.  More effective braking means less effort needs to be used when braking, and hopefully less strain being put through your hands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to invest in a good pair of padded cycling gloves, they also offer a measure of protection from strain on your hands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of the above helps enough then that's the point where you might want to start seriously looking at replacing your brakes.  However, doing the above is likely to be effective in reducing the amount of effort you need to apply when braking, and it's a lot less expensive then replacing the brakes on your current bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T08:13:18.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12970" CreationDate="2012-10-28T13:05:04.613" Score="3" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a &quot;rule of thumb&quot; for how fast new technology &quot;trickles down&quot; from higher-end to lower-end bike models? Can you for example say that a mid-end bicycle frame or suspension fork is as good as the previous high-end, or does it usually take more than one generation for the technology to spread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T17:06:52.690" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T23:02:50.750" Title="How fast does new technology &quot;trickle down&quot; to lower models?" Tags="&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12969" CreationDate="2012-10-28T15:01:07.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They say that this year's Tiagra is generally last year's 105, which is true to an extent. You'll see things like 10 speed cassettes move down the product line at a rate of one series per year or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not entirely true though. Features creep down, but quality stays about the same. The different series will maintain their relative build qualities year after year. I.e. a higher priced series will have better materials used throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I don't believe that build quality is really a deciding factor in most groups. I've put 20000km into a Sora group that is still running just fine. You just need to keep up the proper maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T15:01:07.743" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12957" CreationDate="2012-10-28T16:20:04.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to brake you apply force on the brake lever that is then transferred to the braking surface (e.g. disc and pads).  The advantage of hydraulics is the efficiency in which force is transferred (i.e. reduced system flex).  Cable actuated disc brakes will have more compression  in the cable housing, resulting in reduced efficiency and potentially tired hands from the extra force applied during extended braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you can greatly improve cable disc brake efficiency by upgrading the cable housing to &quot;compression less&quot; housing (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=42429&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avid Flak Jacket&lt;/a&gt;).  This could be a much more cost effective option than switching to hydraulics.  I did this on my commute bike and the performance was quite close to hydraulics, but did take some time to properly set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T16:20:04.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-28T16:20:31.983" Score="4" ViewCount="5960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to get a 52t chainring for my 7900 Dura Ace crankset but am not willing to spend 150 euro on a chainring. Would an Ultegra 52t 6700 chainring work on the 7900 Dura Ace crankset ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5379" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T19:06:19.283" Title="What chainrings are compatible with the Dura Ace 7900 crankset (apart from 7900 chainrings)?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-28T17:47:56.290" Score="5" ViewCount="9314" Body="&lt;p&gt;The preface this, I am just going to say that I am &lt;em&gt;awful&lt;/em&gt; on a bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently gotten a bike that I &lt;em&gt;love&lt;/em&gt;, it's beautiful, and I love riding it, however the drop handlebars have no hoods so the brakes are on the tops, and I have no idea where to put my hands. I want to keep them as close to the brakes as possible because of the heavy traffic in London, and because I am not quite confident enough to be able to move my hands back in to position quickly. The problem with this is that because my hands are so close together I have less control of my bike, and I'm worried that I'm going to fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any recommendations about what I should be doing, or am I going to need to get some new handlebars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bike is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cooperbikes.com/bikes/0/Revival&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cooper Revival 2012&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TUTYO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cooper Revival 2012&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5381" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T18:02:59.973" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T18:02:59.973" Title="How do I use retro drop down handlebars with no hoods?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12974" CreationDate="2012-10-28T18:09:09.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake hoods are part of the brake not part of the handlebar. You should be able to visit your local bike shop and get hood style brakes put in rather than your existing bar top style brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T18:09:09.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2012-10-28T19:13:37.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If&lt;/strong&gt; you bike in a big city with plenty of street signs and bike bars to lock up to, the TiGr lock is the strongest and lightest lock you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tigrlock.com/product/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Titanium bar bike lock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is basically a titanium bar bent in a U shape (and covered in clear plastic so it doesn't scratch your bike). The thin version weighs 11.3 ounces! You carry it on your top tube with a couple of velcros straps. It locks both front and back wheels plus your frame to any stop sign or bike parking fixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got mine during their KickStarter project a year ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extremely light weight (11.3 ounces)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't rattle on the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can not be cut with bolt cutters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Takes much longer to grind through than a Kryptonite lock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can not be used to lock your bike to large objects (like trees, street lights...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is pretty expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0vz4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T19:13:37.277" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12974" CreationDate="2012-10-28T20:08:15.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the option of purchasing a product such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/leather-goods-handlebar-grips/dia-compe-knob-grips.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qXoV8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dia Compe Knobs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are secured to your drop bar where your brake hoods would normally reside. They provide a hand position on the ramp of the bar without having to use drop bar brake levers. They also can install directly over your tape (but it will eventually ruin the tape, so ideally you'd install them and re-tape everything.) While it would be the cheapest and easiest option, it doesn't address the issue of your hands being away from your brake levers (which is a very important feature when riding in traffic!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The existing brake levers are Tektro RL720s. They're known as &quot;interrupter&quot; levers because they are generally installed in tandem with drop bar brake levers and they interrupt the housing, creating two sets of brake levers at two different hand positions. You could purchase any aero levers and install them on the bar along with the 720s (they need to be aero levers where the housing runs under the handlebar tape). This would require some housing and new brake cables, but it would solve both the hand position and brake access issues you've posed for ~$40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h5h4e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cross Lever Setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T20:08:15.580" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-28T21:12:16.367" Score="1" ViewCount="1280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace Shimano 105 STI shifters on a 9-speed road bike which was damaged in an accident, however there are few places that still stock 9-speed Shimano 105 STI shifters.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use the 10-speed Shimano 105 STI shifters with my 9 speed cassette and derailleur? How well would this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T18:02:32.327" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T18:02:32.327" Title="Can I use 10-speed Shimano STI shifters with a 9-speed drivetrain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12974" CreationDate="2012-10-28T21:57:13.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This bike seems to be geared more towards the fixed gear crowd, who don't need brakes all the time and instead use the rear wheel and drivetrain to slow / stop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not comfortable on this bike as is, that's understandable. Riding on the tops of the drop bars is less stable than riding in the drops (which puts your hands far from the brakes) or hanging on the hoods on your drop bars (which currently isn't an option). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend either swapping you bars to a riser bars (or for a more vintage cruiser look maybe moustache bars or albatross bars) with different brake levers suited to those bars or adding drop bar brake levers which you can use on the hoods (which is a bit more stable in city traffic) or from the drops. If you do add new levers to the existing bars, you will probably also have to tilt the bars quite a bit so that the the top of the bars are at less of a downward angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T21:57:13.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12978" CreationDate="2012-10-28T22:57:41.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 10 speed Ultegra shifters working 9-speed Ultegra everything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not had any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the 10-speed cassette went on the wheel with no adjustments needed, nor any adjustments to the derailleur. Surprised me, but it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5383" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T22:57:41.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12985" CreationDate="2012-10-28T23:56:30.507" Score="18" ViewCount="119677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to decide which 29er bike I want to purchase and one of them has lockout. I know what lockout does but I'm not sure what it is used for and if I will need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: We're good now. It's been 6 years (Holy crap) since I've posted this. I'm definitely fully aware of lockout. I've also realized my Rockshox Recon Silver lockout is actually 100% lockout since there's a buffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5378" LastEditorUserId="5378" LastEditDate="2018-04-24T13:07:34.617" LastActivityDate="2019-04-17T21:40:13.487" Title="What is the purpose of suspension lockout?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12987" CreationDate="2012-10-29T00:13:43.793" Score="6" ViewCount="1540" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Leather saddles, such at the brooks b17 imperial have holes at the bottom for lacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does lacing a leather saddle do and should I (or when should I) do this to my own leather saddle? Should I adjust the saddle tension bolt before considering lacing or do they solve different issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T13:44:50.410" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T01:48:02.843" Title="Why are some leather saddles laced at the bottom and should I do this to mine?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;leather&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-10-29T02:28:36.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I converted an old Trek Antelope 830 similar to Holly. I added a rear rack, a rack mounted bag that converted to fold down panniers, Specialized 80 psi Nimbus 26X1.5 tires, Planet Bike fenders, and some spd pedals. I commuted to work and back for quite a few years with good results. I did upgrade to a Specialized Roubaix in 2010, and the difference is night and day! If you don't have the money, the mountain bike can be a cheap way to go. You can pick up an old Trek like Holly amd I used for $50 usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5385" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T02:28:36.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12982" CreationDate="2012-10-29T07:45:12.217" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;You turn it on when riding on smooth surfaces or going up hill to improve pedal efficiency.  It's hard to know if you will need it in advance because without riding the bike you won't know how well the suspension design handles pedal bob (the energy lost by the bike suspension compressing under pedal forces), try and get a test ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T07:45:12.217" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12982" CreationDate="2012-10-29T09:29:50.667" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you're riding on roads you, generally, have close to no need of suspension, but because you've got it you'll be wasting lots of energy which will be going into the shocks and not into the pedals and cranks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't need the suspension, it's going to be much more efficient to be able to disable it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know that you're never (or close to never) going to be riding the bike on paved surfaces then you probably won't need the lockout, but if that's not the case, then you almost certainly should favour the lockout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T09:29:50.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12983" CreationDate="2012-10-29T11:34:15.450" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a leather saddle wears out, it tends to sink and become softer in the middle while splaying out around the edges. This, naturally, makes the saddle uncomfortable and uneven. Lacing a saddle is a way to revive it and return it to its natural shape, or at least something close. You should lace your saddle if you find that it has become too soft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And incidentally, many people punch holes in their leather saddles for this very purpose if the saddle didn't come with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T11:34:15.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4039" CreationDate="2012-10-29T15:31:28.803" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Mavic 222 rim fail earlier this year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim was around ten years old but had spent around 6 of these unused in a garage. The rim wall split, and the inner tub popped out locking the back wheel against the frame, I just managed to keep control of the bike, as I was going quiet fast at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank goodness it was the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced both rims, and now only use the back brake 90% of the time. I would rather wear through the rear rim, than the front for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5390" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T15:31:28.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12973" CreationDate="2012-10-29T17:59:11.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to check on three things to ensure that your new chainrings will work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of arms on your spider. Road bikes typically have five.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bolt spacing. This is most commonly expressed in BCD, or Bolt Center Diameter. The idea of BCD is a simple one, it's the distance from the center of a crankbolt to the crankbolt immediately opposite it on the crank. However, this is not necessarily an easy thing to measure. For one, the crank is not flat and it's difficult to measure across the bulge in the middle. Further, on a five arm spider the measurement has to be taken from an imaginary bolt since no bolt has a direct opposite. However, Sheldon Brown comes to the rescue as usual. His site has an explanation of &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to find the BCD measurement with a ruler and a bit of math&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is also a good idea to consider is the original chain compatibility (compatible with 9-speed or 10-speed). 10-speed chainrings should be used on a 10-speed drivetrain, but you can probably still get away with using 9-speed stuff in most cases. The chainrings may vary in width slightly due to slightly narrower chains on 10-speed drivetrains. It's rarely a problem using a ring that is too narrow on a larger chain, however you probably couldn't use an chainring intended for an 8-speed drivetrain on 10-speed drivetrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T15:04:05.043" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T15:04:05.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12982" CreationDate="2012-10-29T18:50:22.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lockout gives the rider blow-off valve adjustment options (how loose or stiff the compression force is on bike) not only helps pedaling efficiency while climbing/flat trail mode, but also gives the rider options to unlock when riding DH. High end forks have abilities to lock out/adjust blow off, also adjust travel on the fly while riding, like a swiss army knife for ALL conditions, and gives the rider advantages for racing, all mountain, casual non competitive riding too. Non-lockout forks are either for DH (200mm travel), or cheaper alternatives where efficiency in pedaling isn't important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5392" LastEditorUserId="5392" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T17:25:43.177" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T17:25:43.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12993" CreationDate="2012-10-29T19:40:50.420" Score="13" ViewCount="41415" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 26&quot; mtb rims support presta sized tube stems, however can I drill the diameter of the holes in the rims bigger in order to support Schrader stemmed tubes? what is the proper way to do this, is there a kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5392" LastActivityDate="2017-10-14T15:50:26.927" Title="Schrader tubes in Presta configured Rims?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;presta&gt;&lt;schrader&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12992" CreationDate="2012-10-29T19:51:15.980" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drilling out your rims will reduce the strength of the rim and increase the likelihood of cutting the valve stem on your tube. For a few dollars you can buy two of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9KqiZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Schrader Valve Adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This adapter threads onto a Presta valve and effectively turns it into a Schrader valve. Presta valve tubes are the same price and are as widely available as Schrader valve tubes, so you shouldn't need to drill out your rims. (Also, depending on how deep your rims are, finding Schrader valve tubes with valve stems long enough could be a challenge.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a discussion of the virtues of Presta v. Schrader valves, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/59/which-kind-of-tube-valve-is-the-best&quot;&gt;check here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T19:51:15.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12992" CreationDate="2012-10-29T20:38:29.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the width of the rim, and how it's constructed.  If the rim is over about 32mm (about 1.25&quot;, measured from inside to inside) then it &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; has sufficient &quot;meat&quot; in the rim that drilling will not significantly weaken it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But of course it would be silly to do this simply because you have a Scharader tube -- tubes are cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T20:38:29.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12992" CreationDate="2012-10-29T20:38:44.703" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case you really want to drill, the only thing you need is a 10mm drill bit, and a sandpaper to give a smooth finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true that the rim gets weaker, and very narrow rims should not be drilled, but I have performed this enlargement a couple of times and rode the wheels some honest hundreds of km in every kind of terrain, with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did this because I like the ease to get at any gas pump to top tire pressure after trails, and also because schraeder tubes are more avaliable and less expensive where I live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T20:38:44.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7291" CreationDate="2012-10-29T21:16:56.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used both regular road tires and the newer style trainer tires over the last 10 years and have gone through 4 different turbo trainers over the time including actually carving a half centimetre tire size groove into a Tacx Cycleforce-One trainer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to find that with trainer tires the colder running rubber actually slips on a metal roller while putting in hard efforts and sprint efforts. You really have to ask yourself the question- &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingfitness.hubpages.com/_1d9nq0za5ve03/hub/Do-you-need-a-specific-turbo-trainer-tyre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Do you need a specific tyre for indoor cycling training?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that a relatively inexpensive road tire provides a better adhesion to the roller for a more responsive training session for sprints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never personally got on with the trainer tires and know a large number of riders who have bought a trainer tire, only to place it on eBay a number of months later and revert to traditional road tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5200" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T21:16:56.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-29T22:17:50.990" Score="1" ViewCount="8964" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding my bicycle home. I live on a one way and was waiting in the crosswalk while oncoming traffic down the one-way was green. This was at a 4 way intersection. There was no oncoming traffic and all other lights were red. I rode into the crosswalk and was nearly through when the light turned green for the oncoming right side traffic. A man flew through the crosswalk, not seeing me, and we collided. I hit his mirror off, made impact with his door, and fell down. I was then treated by the EMT and taken to the ER for further evaluation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am suffering no broken bones, but a painful hand contusion, cuts and bruises, as well as enhanced neck pain from a previous neck injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cop found me still very frazzled in the ER and told me I was getting issued a citation for going the wrong way on a one way (while the man who hit me got off scot-free). The cop also said she could be giving me 3 other tickets but was trying to be &quot;nice.&quot; I thought you didn't have to do that if it was a traffic infraction...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that &lt;em&gt;local bike laws&lt;/em&gt; in Santa Barbara say you are treated as a car. However, I was in the crosswalk (which is parallel to the one way street) when I was hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need help understanding the laws regarding these specific circumstances. Is this worth fighting in court?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5394" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T17:49:45.520" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T17:49:45.520" Title="Should I fight a ticket I got for riding my bicycle in a crosswalk?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;&lt;california&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-11-01T16:40:07.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12998" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-30T01:03:10.117" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T01:03:10.117" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T01:03:10.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12999" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-30T01:03:10.117" Score="0" Body="Concerning laws concerning bicycling, and their enforcement." OwnerUserId="4018" LastEditorUserId="4018" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T11:08:07.623" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T11:08:07.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13000" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-30T01:05:52.720" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T01:05:52.720" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T01:05:52.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13001" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-30T01:05:52.720" Score="0" Body="Concerning the parts and mechanism of bike gearing, both internal and external. Multi-speed, single-speed, fixed and freewheel." OwnerUserId="4018" LastEditorUserId="4018" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T13:34:09.583" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T13:34:09.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12997" CreationDate="2012-10-30T03:52:30.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual disclaimer: none of us are lawyers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does sound possible that what you were doing doesn't meet the definition for the citation you were given, depending on the details. But you may well have been technically breaking another law; I don't know enough about your local laws (or law in general) to say for sure. So fighting one citation could just turn it into another, and this means that as usual, the best advice would be to talk to a lawyer who'd know details about this sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the safety bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general spirit of &quot;bicycles are vehicles&quot; laws is that cyclists should behave like vehicles, and drivers should similarly treat cyclists like vehicles. If you're riding in a crosswalk or on a sidewalk, you're not following the laws for vehicles. As you discovered, this can be pretty dangerous. It's not a license to just ride however's convenient. Most cyclists think it's pretty much always a bad idea to ride on a sidewalk - it can be dangerous for both you and pedestrians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will admit that sometimes it may be safer than the road, though. But if you're going to ride on a sidewalk, it's important to behave like a pedestrian. Sidewalks are designed for pedestrians. This means you need to ride slowly, maybe even walking your bike at some points, and cross streets the way pedestrians would. Drivers have more time to see you if you're not sprinting across a street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, along with the safety, perhaps you can see how this is less clear than you might think. Cyclists are expected to act like vehicles, and a car doing what you were doing would've been cited, especially if it led to an accident. A pedestrian wouldn't really have been doing what you were doing either. By all means, talk to a lawyer if you want to pursue it. But it may not be cut and dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So good luck with your recovery, and I hope you're back on the road soon. Stay safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T03:52:30.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12997" CreationDate="2012-10-30T06:53:14.837" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider for a moment that you walked away with your life, instead of being killed by that car, and call it a victory. Some people don't walk away with theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you said, you crossed the street without a walk signal, that right their is worth a citation, so it's reasonable that you ended up with 1 citation. It also sounds ordinary that you'll have to show up to court to pay it, that's how a lot of cities handle all traffic fines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try not to get discouraged though. Stay safe out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T06:53:14.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12982" CreationDate="2012-10-30T10:49:46.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree with all this talk of &quot;wasting &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of energy&quot;. When I am riding with constant pedal force, the suspension compresses very little, if any. The severe loss of efficiency occurs when power peaks to the pedals occur - sprinting or hill climbing. IMO the effect is &lt;em&gt;very roughly&lt;/em&gt; up to 30% when sprinting. With climbing it depends on the terrain and your willingness to adjust gears. Keep a stable, high cadence* (as if riding on a road) and there will be no unnecessary compression at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, locking the fork is useful for road biking, right? If you ride at a constant, high, boring cadence on the flat, boring road - no unnecessary compression. In my country, even in the capital, most roads have mean distance between road holes in the order of tens of meters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I do not lock my fork. I suffer in sprints (sprints are bad for your knees), but ride more comfortable through road defects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I have not used high quality forks with suspension lockout(nothing over a hundred bucks) - so it could be that my answer is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/12525/3927&quot;&gt;high cadence == low pedal force (for the same power output)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T06:19:14.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12997" CreationDate="2012-10-30T14:47:11.467" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.santabarbaraca.gov/Documents/Municipal_Code/03_Individual_Titles/SBMC_TITLE_10_Transportation_and_Parking.pdf&quot;&gt;Santa Barbara City Ordinances&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;10.52.130 No Bicycles on Sidewalk.&#xA;No person shall ride a bicycle on any sidewalk except at a driveway; provided, that a person may ride a bicycle on any area designated by the City Council as a bikeway.&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, unless this was a designated &quot;bikeway,&quot; you were clearly in violation of at least one law. I'm a little unclear on your story, but it also sounds like you crossed against the signal. That would, of course, be a second infraction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention that you live on a one-way street but were crossing at a four-way intersection. This doesn't make sense. A two-way street crossing a one-way street is a three-way intersection. But I'll do my best to make sense of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were riding on the sidewalk on the left side of a two-way street, &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; if you were riding the sidewalk against traffic on a one-way street; the ticket for riding against traffic also sort of makes sense. It may or may not be entirely correct, but a case could be made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, you were clearly in violation of some law, probably several. If you try to fight it, you may get out of the ticket you were specifically given but you may also end up with several others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also encourage you to read all of section 10.52 in the attached city ordinances as well as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/cgi-bin/displaycode?section=veh&amp;amp;group=21001-22000&amp;amp;file=21200-21212&quot;&gt;California Vehicle Code Sections 21200-21212&lt;/a&gt;, all of which pertain to bicycling in California. For the best understanding, read the state laws first and the local laws second and look at the local laws as an addendum to the state laws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T14:47:11.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13008" CreationDate="2012-10-30T17:07:58.287" Score="4" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I'm missing something when I patch my wheel, because I patched it yesterday and it had low pressure today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I did:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Released the air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used 2 screwdrivers to remove the tire from the rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removed the tube with my hands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate the tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Took the tube into a bucket with water to see where the bubbles came from&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identified the puncture point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the tube dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filled the zone around puncture with a half milimeter layer of glue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Took out the transparent plastic from the patch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the patch over the glue layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put pressure using hands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the tube in position on wheel (looking at where the valve should go)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the tire in position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate the tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happened to me once before, but other times worked ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to have a complete procedure to patch a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5398" LastEditorUserId="5398" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T22:53:11.220" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T22:55:34.790" Title="What steps should I follow to patch a tube?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13007" CreationDate="2012-10-30T17:20:45.907" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somewhat generic instructions for using a patch kit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the wheel from the bike, check for obvious damage to the tire&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the tube from the tire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use tire levers to remove the tire from the rim. Be sure not to add additional punctures to the tube by pinching it with the levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the orientation of the tube within the tire so you can trace down the puncture point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find the puncture on the tube&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May help to put some air in it and use your cheek/eye to feel for leaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've located the puncture, find the point in the tire where the puncture occurred and make sure there is nothing stuck in the tire (like a shard of glass) which will re-puncture the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a puncture and that the tire isn't actually torn/worn through, you can proceed to patch the tube. If the tire is too damaged the tube will just pop again, so there isn't much point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apply the patch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically this involves gently sanding/roughing up the surface of the tube, applying adhesive compound, &lt;em&gt;letting it dry for 5-10 minutes&lt;/em&gt;, and then applying the patch. Most patches I've seen have a brown side, and a black/brown side. The black/brown side stays upwards, the fully brown side is applied against the tube. Wait another 5 to 10 minutes for the patch to bond to the compound.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install tube in tire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inflate the tube slightly to make sure it holds air. Insert it into the tire, then mount the tire on the rim, one wire bead at a time. The first bead should go on easily, the second may require tire levers or strong thumbs.  Be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; careful not to puncture the tube if using levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it helps to completely deflate the tube to get the last bit of the wire over the rim. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=installing+bicycle+tire+without+levers&amp;amp;oq=installing+bicycle+tire+without+levers&amp;amp;gs_l=youtube.3...7026.7610.0.7778.8.7.0.0.0.1.99.438.7.7.0...0.0...1ac.1.j5O_nA32Nk8&quot;&gt;some good tutorials&lt;/a&gt; on getting the last bit of the wire onto the rim, which can be tricky to do without damaging the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inflate tube, checking again for damage/bulges/splits as you approach full pressure&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ride away&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T17:26:19.353" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T17:26:19.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13007" CreationDate="2012-10-30T19:01:09.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from what the others have said here- you should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be using screwdrivers to remove your tire from the rim. That's a sure way to adding another puncture to your tube. You need to use one of these tire levers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WLTgv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Standard Tire levers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/78O59.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Speed Tire lever&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T19:01:09.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12957" CreationDate="2012-10-30T19:02:19.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some Shimano XT hydraulics on a mountain bike, and now have Avid BB7 mechanical disks on my touring bike.  I don't know whether to attribute it to the lack of cable compression or some other mechanical advantage, but there's no question that the hydraulics feel much easier and controllable.  It is also a more linear feel (or &quot;better modulation&quot; is a phrase I sometimes hear used) -- you get more braking right at the beginning of the lever pull because you don't have to first squish out all the flex in the cable and cable housing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, my mechanical disc brakes, while very strong, have a bit of squish at the beginning, and don't subjectively feel as nice.  I still choose not to run hydraulics because of the increased vulnerability (hydraulic line punctures) and difficulty of doing field repairs (particularly inappropriate for a touring bike).  But the hydraulics, subjectively, definitely feel much stiffer and stronger.  Since you're a bigger guy at 100 kilos, and braking quality sounds important to you, I don't think you'd be crazy to want to try switching over to hydraulics to see if they make a significant difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T19:02:19.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13007" CreationDate="2012-10-30T19:05:48.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things you can do to reduce the chance of damaging the tube while patching it or after patching it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Invest a couple of dollars in a tire lever, they're plastic and will be a lot easier on your tire and tube than a screw driver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you take the tube out to patch it, take a few minutes to run the tips of your fingers along the inside of your tire to find the likely cause of your puncture, a thorn or piece of metal, etc. If you don't remove the object that popped your tube in the first place from the tire, patching it isn't going to do much good, and it will eventually pop again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T22:55:34.790" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T22:55:34.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12869" CreationDate="2012-10-30T19:45:16.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be a few different issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It your Rear wheel is sliding around in the rear dropouts and you wind up loosing tension on the chain or screwing up the alignment of the rear wheel. It's really a common thing on bikes with horizontal dropouts, which I assume your bike has.  When you start to pedal, if the rear wheel bolts or quick releases are not tight, then the wheel can slide forward in the dropout, the chain comes loose and falls off. Try tightening bolts or quick release tighter or use a chain tensioner or tugnut to help prevent the axle from slipping.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your chain is really worn and/or your cogs are very worn, this causes the chain to skip off the front chainring or rear cog. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt; about chain wear to diagnose this issue. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have a bad chainline.  Instead of going from the rear cog on the wheel to the front chainring in a straight line, it bends the chain diagonally, causing it to hop off the cog or chainring easily.  This may be due to spacers incorrectly placed on either side of the rear axle. Credit @DanielRHicks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The chain could just have too much slack, try pulling the wheel back and resetting the tension tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bent chainring causes chain to jump.  Spin the chainring without the chain and see if it 'wobbles', if so this could be causing your chain jumps and the chainring should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T19:45:16.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2012-10-30T19:51:50.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somebody wrote &lt;em&gt;&quot;...talk requires more of your brain than music. With (certain kinds of) music, you can enjoy the beat and the sound without really having to think about it.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I couldn't disagree more and certainly would NEVER listen to music whilst cycling. There is a natural tendency of the body to imitate rhythmical sounds and the limbs, often without any thought, can begin to move in line with the beat. Therefore, the music you are listening to is effectly determining how you are cycling, NOT the road conditions or others users. And that is dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I used headphones on a bike is on my bike trainer in the garage. I put on stuff that is  active, lively, and 'in your face' because it gets me going. If anyone knows who Buddy Rich was you will immediately understand what I mean. The power of his drumming literally kicks you into action. If is was JS Bach, I start concentrating on the counterpoint (and certainly not the garage). And if you like the pop songs, I suppose you'll listen to the lyrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So don't do it...unless you want to end you life listening to your favourite tune. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5399" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T19:51:50.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-30T20:13:03.660" Score="7" ViewCount="2860" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking specifically about triathlon frames, just frames which have aerodynamically shaped tubes. As I understand it, both types of frame are legal for road-racing under UCI rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why would one choose a traditional frame with round or &quot;squoval&quot; tubes over an aero frame? For example, why would one choose to ride a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/bikes/r-series/road-bikes-r5.html&quot;&gt;Cervélo R5&lt;/a&gt; with (more) traditionally shaped tubes over a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/bikes/s-series/s5.html&quot;&gt;Cervélo S5&lt;/a&gt; which would seem to be more aerodynamically sound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it boil down to personal preference, or are there specific conditions in which one out-performs the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T23:11:58.257" Title="Why choose a traditional frame over an aerodynamically streamlined frame?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13014" CreationDate="2012-10-30T22:21:32.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will probably depend on terrain, speed, and other aerodynamic (or lack thereof) factors whether one would even notice a difference between an &quot;aero&quot; frame or a &quot;normal&quot; frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're climbing lots of hills, riding in traffic, or otherwise not in a position where wind resistance is your chief enemy, I doubt you'd see a benefit from going aero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live out in the farmlands and ride on fast, flat roads, or somewhere that has lots of wind, you may notice a difference, because wind/air resistance becomes a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T22:21:32.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13007" CreationDate="2012-10-30T22:54:58.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Except in an emergency, don't use screwdrivers.  Use plastic tire levers or a Quick Stick to remove ONE bead of the tire from the rim.  Don't completely remove the tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you remove the tube, attempt to keep it &quot;right side up&quot; relative to the wheel laying on the ground/bench.  This makes it easier for step 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over-inflate the tube (until it bulges up to about 50% fatter than normal) and then listen/feel for the leak.  Holding your face near the tube often works well here.  You will find the leak this way, without having to find a tub of water.  Mark the leak somehow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having found the leak, lay the tube (still &quot;right side up&quot;) on top of the tire, with the stem aligned with the stem hole.  Check the tire at the puncture point for either a piece of something still embedded in the tire or a tear/gash.  If you lost track of which side is right-side-up, flip the tube over and check the other spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard the tube if the puncture/hole is at or around the stem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deflate the tube (if necessary).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the tube for an inch or two around the hole.  First wipe with tissue or whatever (maybe moistened with spit), then use the sandpaper or whatever is supplied in the patch kit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a patch, and note how large it is.  Apply a THIN layer of the rubber cement to the area around the hole, in a wide enough pattern to be larger than the patch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the cement dry for a few minutes, until it's lost its gloss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the patch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Press&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the patch into place, using a tire lever or some such to rub back and forth over it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let set another 5 minutes or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhat gingerly inflate the tube again and check for other leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use chalk powder (ideal), dust from the roadside, or just a piece of tissue to cover the exposed glue so that it won't stick to the inside of the tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick the tube inside the tire, work the stem into place in the rim, double-check that the tube is not twisted or kinked, and then put the bead of the tire back on the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partially inflate (maybe 15 pounds) and roll the wheel on the ground back and forth for several feet, putting weight on the wheel, to help seat the bead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fully inflate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, rather than patching a tube on the road it's far better to just install your spare and then patch the tube later, in a more controlled environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T22:54:58.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13014" CreationDate="2012-10-30T23:11:58.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aero frames are generally slightly heavier than the standard frame you'd compare it to, though the difference might not even be enough for the average person to notice. Someone who regularly competes in time trials might want the increased speed on relatively flat ground, competitors will certainly notice the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not competing in time trials or triathlons and you don't have an extra couple thousand dollars burning a hole in your pocket, you would probably choose the standard, more compatible, traditional, and lighter frame that is going to perform perfectly well on your average terrain. If you frequently ride on hilly terrain, the added cost and weight of the aero frame isn't likely to be worth the trade off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T23:11:58.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13024" CreationDate="2012-10-31T01:25:25.680" Score="4" ViewCount="5668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of shimano m520 pedals which were damaged in an accident.  The springs rotated past the tension bolt and now the back section, usually under tension, now hangs free.  How can I re-assemble the pedal and get the springs back under the tension screw? It seems very difficult since the springs need to be held under tension to get the plate back on top of the springs. Is this possible with home tools?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to an assembly diagram: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/PD/EV-PD-M520-2235_v1_m56577569830608614.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/PD/EV-PD-M520-2235_v1_m56577569830608614.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T12:29:34.110" Title="How to reassemble spring assembly on Shimano M520 SPD pedals" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-31T12:30:26.583" Score="2" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a SRAM force compact crankset and I want to change it to a standard 53-39.&#xA;Is it possible and how do I do it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5403" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T01:06:56.237" Title="SRAM force upgrade from compact to standard 53-39" Tags="&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13020" CreationDate="2012-10-31T13:57:16.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible and fairly easy. You'll need to purchase a new chain in either route you go. You will also need to move and readjust your front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can purchase a new standard crankset and swap it out. You'll need to ensure that you get the correct version to match the bottom bracket which is most likely either BB30 or GXP and should be detailed on either your frame documentation on the frame itself or the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have experience with this, you might want to bring it to a shop to actually switch out your cranks if you go that route to ensure proper installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T01:06:56.237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T01:06:56.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-31T14:36:47.023" Score="2" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-improve-my-stamina&quot;&gt;How can I improve my stamina?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to improve my endurance while bicycling.&#xA;I'm especially interested in increasing my endurance while going up a slope (since right now I get tired very easily while doing this and have to stop to take a rest quite often).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What advice would you give me on this?&#xA;Do you know any good training program that you would recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4259" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T19:16:23.307" Title="Advice for increasing endurance" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-11-01T16:39:32.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13022" CreationDate="2012-10-31T14:54:36.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding a hill repeats workout to your training routine is the best way to increase your climbing endurance. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBrWyCVOwOY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; on one way to do hill repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a hill with a good grade in your area.&#xA;Basically, you warm up and get yourself loose and ready for an intense workout, then ride up the hill making sure to time your effort then use the same amount of time to go back down the hill and recover then repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start off with a few reps and build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3931" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T14:54:36.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13018" CreationDate="2012-10-31T14:56:42.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured out how to reassemble this after some examination of the assembly diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;I took the body cover off (see item labeled #4 in diagram). &#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I reassembled the spring / tensioner assembly without tension on the springs. I used a magnet to hold the bolt in place while I did this.&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Then I attempted to put the body cover back on.  I couldn't exactly squeeze it on due to the tensioned back section.  So, I put it on loosly with a few threads of the three bolts screwed in. It was loose enough to hang on there, but it was at a slightly awkward angle due to pressure from the tensioned back section. &#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then was able to slowly tighten the bolts and force back the tensioned back section with a screwdriver until I could snap the body cover in place.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bolts held the body plate down and prevented it from moving due to pressure from the tensioned back section. and I completed tightening all the bolts and now have a functioning pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T14:56:42.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-31T17:08:46.160" Score="14" ViewCount="133013" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I pedal forcing a little with my right leg, the bike makes a noise that I don't know how to describe. I'll try to do it. It's like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a short &quot;ting&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a tiny bell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if a small rock hits the down tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what is causing this noise, but I think that it could be any of this things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crank arm/pedal connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crankset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the material of all these things is alluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't feel anything (like a bad shifted chain) when I hear the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happens when there is movement and when there is NO movement (I use the brake, so the bike doesn'e move, stand using all weight on right pedal, and it makes the noise)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pedals could be in any position, It is not in a particular position. Just pressing the right pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has someone else has this &quot;problem&quot;? Any ideas of where this comes from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Yesterday I took out the chain and stood on the right pedal, and made the noise. Then is not the chain, nor the transmission system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put oil in the pedal axis, but had no luck. Also tried to loose the pedal, but the juncture point is too tight, and I couldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I will try to use oil in the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; here is a link to info on the bike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diamondback.com/2012-sorrento&quot;&gt;http://www.diamondback.com/2012-sorrento&lt;/a&gt; maybe it helps to know the model of all the components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5398" LastEditorUserId="5398" LastEditDate="2013-08-31T00:38:25.913" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T00:44:45.400" Title="Why does my bike make a noise when I pedal hard?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13025" CreationDate="2012-10-31T18:58:41.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could very easily be that the bottom bracket needs to be lubricated, as freiheit pointed out. Lubricate the bottom bracket and tighten it to the torque specifications, and tighten the pedals and crank arm to see if the noise changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the first things I would suspect is your frame, especially if it's an aluminum frame. It might be worth it to have an expert personally inspect your frame and crank for any cracks. I've had cracks cause me that ping before as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T18:58:41.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13022" CreationDate="2012-10-31T19:16:23.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found going up slight-to-moderate but LONG slopes (more than one mile) makes me feel a lot easier when going up moderate-to-steep hills of any length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact is that one of the principles of exercise training is that if you want to get better in some specific activity, you should perform that activity, in a level enough to promote enhancement of capacity over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T19:16:23.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13025" CreationDate="2012-10-31T19:17:12.493" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be any number of things.  The first thing to check (because ignoring it can rapidly cause expensive damage) is that the crank arms are tight.  Even if they don't seem loose it doesn't hurt to put a wrench on the fixing bolts and torque them a bit.  (If one moves more than a small amount, get a torque wrench and do them up right.)  Likewise with the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get noise from a cartridge BB if the cups are not totally tight. No big emergency here, but you need to tighten them to see if that's the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spokes can make a &quot;ting&quot; sound, especially if the wheel is relatively new.  Unless there are loose spokes, though, there's not much you can do about this and it will usually go away on its own after the wheel breaks in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely to be that the BB needs lube, unless it's been sorely neglected for years (or submerged in Sandy's tidal waters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike is relatively new (a few months old), you should take it back to the shop where you bought it and ask for a &quot;tuneup&quot; where they would tighten the crank arms, adjust the brakes and shifters, and true up the wheels.  On a new bike they should do this for free or for a nominal sum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike's older a tuneup won't hurt, but expect to pay more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T21:35:55.713" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T21:35:55.713" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13025" CreationDate="2012-10-31T20:00:56.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the threading hasn't deteriorated and that tensions are appropriate for the pedal/crank crank/chain ring, crank/bottom bracket, bottom bracket/frame interfaces. Grease the bottom bracket/frame interface thoroughly. If all of the above fail to fix the issue the bottom bracket may need to be services or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T20:00:56.897" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12983" CreationDate="2012-11-01T01:48:02.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since that particular Brooks saddle has a cut out in the middle of the saddle seat surface, there is a loss of support across the top side surface. Eventually the sides would begin to curl and sag and that opening on the surface may widen as the leather became more supple. The lacing will ad some rigidty to the saddle to somewhat control the movement of the leather over a period of years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5404" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T01:48:02.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="623" CreationDate="2012-11-01T02:01:55.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have listened to my radio using ear buds for over 20 years while riding. I don't have the volume loud, just enough to hear the music or talk radio station. To me, it's very similar to listening to a radio in a vehicle. I've always pretty much depended on my two rear view mirrors to pick up a vehicle approaching from the rear much further back than I could ever hear it anyway. Some states have a law against doing this. There's arguments that for a vehicle driver, no you shouldn't wear ear buds, but they claim a bicycle isn't exactly enclosed, so therefore, you can hear outside noise better than in a vehicle. Not sure what would happen if a police officer would take acception to that theory. Even on days when I don't wear the ear buds, it's easy to just be enjoying a beautiful sunny day and be jolted back to reality by an approaching vehicle not too far behind you! I guess this is up to the individual or the local laws as to whether or not you listen to the radio as you cycle down the road. As for the volume, it shouldn't be so loud as to injure your hearing anyway. For parks and other off-road riding, it should be no problem at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5404" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T02:01:55.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-01T06:25:09.833" Score="1" ViewCount="14140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a haro flightline two dx and i want to upgrade it (fork,brakes,derraulliers,...)iam scared that if i do this with this bike that my fork is going to fail or something like that so could i do this with a 100mm sr suntour xct v2 or could i upgrade it to a fork with more travel. I dont know if a fork with more travel can go on this bike.Will my fork fail?and can I upgrade my bikes travel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5405" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T08:03:27.953" Title="Is a 100mm travel hardtail ok for light downhill and a few jumps?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12933" CreationDate="2012-11-01T07:41:06.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I opened my shifter a bit, not disassembled the whole thing, but I was able to degrease it well. I then applied a lot of spray lube. I shifted up and down while spraying, making sure the lube got everywhere. I have used my bike every day in cold weather now, one day as cold as -10Celcius, everything seems to work. It can be a bit sticky, but I always manage to shift correctly now. I guess I'll have to apply lube quite often now, the spray isn't as heavy-duty as the original grease, but my gears work now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I took my bike to the shop today, the shifter has gotten worse the last few weeks. When I picked it up they said Shimano has called back several models, a faulty spring seemed to be the problem. I got it replaced no-cost. My new shifter works perfectly in the -5C now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-12-10T20:25:00.247" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T20:25:00.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13032" CreationDate="2012-11-01T07:42:14.770" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me that the bike is an entry level XC mountian bike. Not a great bike, at the right price tag, none the less suitable for off road use. I wouldn't take if off a 2 meter drops all day, but it should be OK over less than about 300mm (1 foot) and more if you know how to land. If you keep the wheels on the ground it will handle most tracks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrading the fork to more travel will change the geometry. Too much is a bad thing, but 20mm or so should be OK. Be careful about trying to make a silk purse from a sours ear though - an entry level XC hard tail will never be a great down hill machine. Looking at the list of upgrades, it would be better to start with a bike closer to what you really want.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for breaking the bike etc - it will probably not fail catastrophically from normal riding, but it's not a 20kg downhill tank, and parts breakable if abused. Riding style and skill , as well as your weight, plays a part. A skilled rider controls the bike over the bumps and landings, and rides &quot;lightly&quot; and unskilled rider can land very &quot;heavy&quot; on the smallest bumps and jumps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theres nothing wrong with a hard-tail for down hilling - not that many years ago people rode no suspension on what we now consider &quot;Light&quot; down hill tracks (I used to land 2 meter jumps with no suspension, ....memories... the early 90's, just like life, MTB's were so much simpler - 2 wheels, 18 gears, choice of steel or steel frames and one size nearly fits all..... ), &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this one would not be my choice, if it's all you have got, get out there and have fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T07:42:14.770" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13032" CreationDate="2012-11-01T08:52:22.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are just starting out you need to focus on the basics of riding (proper stance, cornering, braking etc) which will allow you to ride better, faster and safer. And generally focus on having fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't waste too much money on that bike. Just use it a lot and maybe switch to a better bike in a year or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T08:52:22.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13032" CreationDate="2012-11-01T12:19:33.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not so long ago, 80mm would be a DH suspension already. Then the 100mm ones came and the whole DH community was stunned by so much travel. So, considering travel alone, 100mm is enough to do what you want. BUT you have to consider two more things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork design: forks can be designed to jump (as some very tough Marzocchi Dirt Jump forks with 100mm of travel) or to eat up bumps with 'on-ground', XC use (for example, Rock Shox SID and Reba forks, with which wouldn't be a good idea to go around jumping everything).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork quality: if the fork is not good quality, jumpin around (and sometimes just riding around) can slowly tear down its internals, creating play, leakages, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, the frame should be compatible with longer forks. I've seen people installing double-crown, long travel forks in &quot;regular&quot; frames and go downhill, and eventually the head tube was torn off the bike due to excessive lever from the front wheel while braking and landing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T12:19:33.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13025" CreationDate="2012-11-01T15:17:40.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loose chain-ring bolts are an oft overlooked culprit. They're also the easiest to tighten, since you don't have to remove the crank or pedals, so it's worth a shot. Check that they are tightened to the proper torque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4664" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T15:17:40.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-01T16:11:20.427" Score="7" ViewCount="11170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting some toe grips or straps for my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of these over normal pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5189" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T22:54:04.597" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T16:51:32.447" Title="Benefits of toe grips/toe straps" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;toe-straps-clips&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13039" CreationDate="2012-11-01T16:29:44.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are more efficient.  Firstly you need to do less work to keep your feet on the pedals.  Though it seems like that might be trivial you do expend energy and or concentration on keeping you feet on the pedals this will reduce that somewhat.  Additionally in some circumstances it is safer, your feet will not slip off the pedals when you go over a bump.  Finally you will be able to pull on the up stroke using different muscles and giving you more even power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a problem with toe straps that I have not had with proper clip in pedals and shoes.  In order to remove your feet from toe straps, especially ones done too tightly you must take them straight back off the pedals.  This is most unnatural as the reflex action is to move them sideways especially if you are slowing down and staring to lean to one side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T16:29:44.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13039" CreationDate="2012-11-01T17:45:12.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=45&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;disagreement&lt;/a&gt; within the cycling community about how beneficial clipless pedals and toe clips are over regular platform pedals. I won't get into the argument here, but feel free to read the above link for the best thought-out argument against clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the most commonly named advantage of clipless pedals and toe clips is the ability to pull up on the back stroke, theoretically creating 360 degrees of power. As I understand it, this idea hasn't really held up under lab tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additional advantages of toe clips are that they're cheap, easy to get in and out of, offer a large degree of float (the way that your foot moves around on the pedal), and can be worn with almost  any shoe. The disadvantages are that they can scuff up and/or wear holes in your shoes, they're not quite as easy to get out of as a platform pedal, and don't offer as much power through the whole 360 degrees of motion as clipless pedals do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additional advantages of clipless pedals are a more secure attachment to the pedal, and the ability to wear a shoe with a completely rigid bottom. The disadvantages are that the reduced float can contribute to repetitive stress injuries, they require special (and often expensive shoes), and they're more difficult to get out of. You even see experienced cyclists fall over at stoplights once in a while because the pedal refuses to disengage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal preferences are platforms for downhill, trials, and urban riding, toe clips for commuting, clipless for mountain biking and road racing/training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T15:17:36.500" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T15:17:36.500" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13039" CreationDate="2012-11-01T18:33:07.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's surprising that this is as hot a topic as it is. Clipless pedals are more efficient, and you can get stiffer shoes for them. Competitor or not, if you step foot into clipless pedals I think you will notice the difference. Go take a pair for a test ride and you will probably favor the increased control, especially if you ride longer distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the main downside that can't be overcome one way or another, is the increased cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for that infamous argument about whether or not you can produce more power, hopefully we will have enough real world data to bring the argument to rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T00:08:05.227" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T00:08:05.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12973" CreationDate="2012-11-01T18:36:10.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a 6700 chainring will work on a 79oo crank.  There are a number of other chainrings which will work as well, although they all look a bit silly, since the crank is designed with the integrated shape of the 3D crank arm in mind. A flat chainring doesn't really look right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T18:36:10.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13039" CreationDate="2012-11-01T21:33:49.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage to either toe clips or (even moreso) clipless pedals is that until you get used to them you're likely to have a few rather inelegant falls (like pulling up to a stoplight and just falling over).  There are other cases where they can contribute to falls (or exacerbate falls that would have occurred anyway), particularly in off-road conditions (which is one reason that off-road bikers often don't use them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me (being partly disabled) the main advantage is that I expend less energy keeping my feet on the pedals.  This isn't as trivial as it sounds: Without some sort of retention system you must constantly work to keep your feet centered over the pedals -- get off-center and your foot slides off.  Of course, people mostly manage this unconsciously, but it still takes considerable effort/energy, especially when you're tired or struggling against a hill or headwind or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability to &quot;pull&quot; on the pedal and gain energy on the upstroke is probably not significant in the general case, but can be important when you need a brief burst of power/torque.  More important, and somewhat related to the previous paragraph, is the fact that you can extend your power stroke slightly, beginning a few degrees earlier and ending a few degrees later.  You don't get more peak torque, but you do get more energy per unit time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T21:33:49.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13039" CreationDate="2012-11-01T23:46:42.777" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word..efficiency. I prefer the toe straps rather than the clipless pedals. I can see where the clipless pedals are more efficient, but all I really care about is more efficiency than just having flat pedals with nothing else at all. The footstraps do keep your feet in line and on the pedals without using energy to achieve that part. The strap type pedals also allow for using your leg to pull up as the opposite leg is on the down ( power ) stroke. You notice a real difference using this method when going uphill! And you can use any type of shoe with the strap type pedals. I wear a touring shoe which has a stiff sole that's not made for much walking off of the bike, but can still be done. Regular shoes can also be worn with the strap pedals. With the clip type pedals, you can't use them for walking very far because of the clips on the bottom, unless you have the guards that snap in the holes. Since I'm more of a casual rider, efficiency, especially on uphills is great, especially when you get into the 40 and 50 mile range of a ride. ( And of course there's ALWAYS a head wind! :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5410" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T23:46:42.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13049" CreationDate="2012-11-02T00:37:00.537" Score="4" ViewCount="3597" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will I notice much difference beside just having a slightly longer cockpit between my seat and fork if I upgrade from a 50mm to a 65 mm stem? is this 15mm a significant enough adjustment to make my climbing or downhill riding feel any different? In what ways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5392" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T13:13:16.207" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T13:13:16.207" Title="Geometry between 50mm stem and a 65mm stem and riding experience" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;trails&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12332" CreationDate="2012-11-02T00:44:23.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't find these cable clips or don't want to pay a high price for those you can find, I'd suggest that some clear vinyl tubing of the proper inside diameter and cut to the desired length, then split open and placed around two cables wherever you desired, may work fine. The vinyl tubing is soft, so it won't scratch paint or cut any cables. You can find the tubing in most hardware stores and it's sold by the foot. It would cost pennies as compared to any clips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5410" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T00:44:23.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13046" CreationDate="2012-11-02T08:43:31.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing from 50 to 65 (or the opposite) is definitely noticeable. And depending on your needs, switching may improve your riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching from 50 to 65 will mean more pressure on the front end. That means better cornering (the front end will not wash out easily) and more stability on the downhill. Some people also mention that it'll improve climbing on difficult terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching from 65 to 50 will improve the agility of the bike. You'll be able to bunnyhop, manual and trick your bike easier and with less effort. You'll also have a slight advantage at very very steep technical downhill trails. It'll also make your cornering snapier but be careful of wash outs. A switch of this type is also paired with an increase in bar width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T08:43:31.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2012-11-02T14:53:25.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Cage/Bottle Cage/Bottle Holder&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water bottle cages hold water bottles on a bike frame. They can be made of steel, aluminum, carbon, or titanium. Most cages attach to the frame via preinstalled threaded holes that are usually called bosses or mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern frames have at least two bottle cage mounts, one on the seat tube and one on the down tube. Some gravel bikes have a third mount on the underside of the down tube. Some full suspension mountain bikes may have only one mount, as the suspension system can take up some room in the bike's main triangle. Some dedicated cyclocross racing bikes may lack cage mounts entirely, as cyclocross races are short and one may need to shoulder the bicycle during a race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On frames without mounts, bottle cage adapters might be able to strap around the tube. Alternatively, you may be able to drill a hole into the frame and put in a threaded insert called a riv nut, although this will void your warranty and it will create a stress riser. This raises the risk of later failure. It may not be an issue with relatively thick steel tubing, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple examples of cages are shown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E1rpu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Carbon Fibre&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sHMKQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Aluminum&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For time trials and triathlons, there are also cage adapters that attach to the seat and provide mounting points for extra water bottle cages and spare tubes/inflators. A few new mounts place a water bottle between the extension of an aerobar set. (Image credit to Slowtwitch.com, a triathlon forum.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5n9B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Behind the seat&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B6jxK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Between the extensions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydration vests like those made by Camelbak are an option for bikes without any cage mounts or to carry additional water. These may be less comfortable in hot weather. Hydration bladders can also be carried in frame packs that are strapped to the top tube; these packs frequently have exit ports for the hoses. Last, stem bags will strap to the stem and handlebar, and these can carry a bottle also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bikes, mainly gravel bikes, may have mounts on the outsides of the fork blades. These multipurpose mounts can fit standard bottle cages or larger cargo cages. Some gravel and triathlon bikes may have a pair of bosses on the top tube near the stem. These may have the spacing typical of water bottle cages, but they are used for bolt-on boxes (aka Bento boxes) that hold snacks and equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T21:55:13.647" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-11-02T14:53:25.300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10637" CreationDate="2012-11-02T15:41:02.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the tyres on my MTB for slicker ones, The difference was very noticeable and more comfortable. Running higher pressure in the tyres also helps, but be careful not to exceed the tyres recommended max. Also I would recommend reducing the weight if you can, remove any unnecessary parts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T15:41:02.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12969" CreationDate="2012-11-02T22:53:53.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My knowledge is mainly about downhill mountain bikes. Firstly I don't think the technology has really gone very far at all. Secondly you need to buy the top, or middle model bike for the good components, that's always been the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most downhill mountain bikes still do not have a gearbox inside the frame. The price for this bike of gear box bike has not gone down one bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are still plenty of single pivot frame designs around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of bikes come with DT swiss cheese wheels, which are notorious for bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forks like Fox and Rockshox still require a lot of maintenance (oil seals).  The suspension will have fewer adjustments. If you buy the bottom model the suspension will probably be rubbish. Marzochi still have ridiculously bad dampers on their low end forks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can you for example say that a mid-end bicycle frame or suspension&#xA;  fork is as good as the previous high-end&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't work this way at all. There is no moore's law like computer hardware. Just like cars, the bikes will sometimes improve when a company ditches their old frame design and releases a new model of bikes. The suspension companies are always going to reserve their best technology for their premium model products. That technology hasn't really improved much so there is not much trickling down going on. Usually they just fix flaws in their previous products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avid now make brakes that have problems with air bubbles. Their old brakes were perfectly fine. Still, at least we have moved on from Hayes, that is definitely an example of technology trickling down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano now make disk brakes with a crappy sline attachment. Hope ditched their spline design years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anything the technology is going backwards in some ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new price has come down slightly. But the second hand market is a lot better now since there are plenty of bikes around. This wasn't always the case when these downhill bikes were a new  technology. I always get a top end bike, but I never buy it brand new. It has to be a few years used or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5418" LastEditorUserId="5418" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T23:02:50.750" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T23:02:50.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12479" CreationDate="2012-11-02T23:26:02.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested in a comment on the question, the load generator for the Tacx Basic in the early 2000's was the same load generator used across the entire Tacx ergometer line. The Basic, the Grand Excel, the Flow, and the I-Magic all used the same load generator, so the head units are interchangeable. The capabilities of the Basic can thus be &quot;upgraded&quot; by switching to a Grand Excel or I-Magic head unit (the Flow replaced the Basic in the Tacx line in 2004 or 2005 and, except for a larger screen and slightly easier calibration procedure the models are equivalent). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T23:39:27.673" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T23:39:27.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10543" CreationDate="2012-11-03T00:07:26.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are around 8 different rim sizes that fit tires all called &quot;26 inch.&quot; Many are obsolete. The tires all have different Bead Seat Diameter (BSD) and are thus not interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones you are most likely to see in your local bike shop are as follows (largest to smallest):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;26 x 1-3/8&quot; = BSD 590mm. Often found on middleweight 3-speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;650B (aka 26 x 1-1/2&quot;) = BSD 584mm. Mostly found on French or French-style touring or sport cycles. It has found new life as the new &quot;27.5&quot;er MTB size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;650C (aka 26 x 1-3/4&quot;) = BSD 571mm. This uses about the same rim diameter as the 26&quot; tubular race tire. Occasionally used on small racing frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;26&quot; mountain or cruiser (aka 26 x 1.75&quot;) = BSD 559mm. THIS is the most common size in the USA for the last seventy years, and the size you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ignore the old inch-based designations if you wish to avoid confusion, and use the ISO sizing standard instead. It is printed on the side of every tire made since about 1964, and consists of two numbers: the tire width in mm, and the BSD in mm. So if you want a 26 tire that fits your mountain bike rim but is only an inch wide, you should look for a tire marked 25-559. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I do not like tires that small for city riding, as they must be kept at very high pressure, and even then, they are prone to pinch flats. I prefer tires at least 1.25&quot; (32-559), and am riding a 1.75&quot; (47-559) tire right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5419" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T00:07:26.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2012-11-03T05:47:55.143" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Spoke&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spokes connect the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/3404#3404&quot;&gt;hub&lt;/a&gt; of a wheel to its &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/825#825&quot;&gt;rim&lt;/a&gt;. Spokes are secured to the rim by a spoke nipple. They insert into the hub at its flanges. Spoke count is the number of spokes in a wheel, and a higher spoke count usually means a stronger wheel that can handle more weight and abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spoke tension&lt;/strong&gt; (the force with which the spokes are tightened) can be adjusted individually. This is part of the process of &lt;strong&gt;truing a wheel&lt;/strong&gt;, ensuring that tension is equally distributed in the wheel and that the rim is &lt;strong&gt;true&lt;/strong&gt;, or straight. This is particularly important with bikes that have tight tolerances, but wheels that are trued are a benefit to any bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all spokes are made of steel. In performance bikes, spokes are sometimes bladed or ovalized, which reduces the wheel's air resistance slightly. Less commonly, spokes can be made from titanium or carbon fiber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T22:49:39.213" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-11-03T05:47:55.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2012-11-03T05:52:53.020" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Mountain Bike&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often abbreviated as &lt;em&gt;MTB&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike with sturdier wheels (usually 26&amp;quot; or 29&amp;quot;) and wider tires - around 2&amp;quot; wide - meant for riding off-road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes commonly come with only front suspension (&lt;em&gt;hard tail&lt;/em&gt;), front and rear suspension (&lt;em&gt;full suspension&lt;/em&gt;) or no suspension (&lt;em&gt;rigid&lt;/em&gt;). A rare configuration is the &lt;em&gt;soft tail&lt;/em&gt; where the frame has a small amount of compliance or some basic rear suspension built-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thicker frame tubing and flat handlebars are common features of mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T16:15:43.613" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-11-03T05:52:53.020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3897" CreationDate="2012-11-03T14:51:16.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had success with this method and no problems with cracking or saddle damage. I soak a new Brooks saddle in neatsfoot oil for a day and in a bucket of water for a day then ride it wet.  After a 20 mile or so ride you will be amazed how comfortable the saddle will feel.  I then use Proofide and tension the saddle as Brooks recommends.  I have two B-17 saddles with 1,000's of miles on them including a 4000 mile ride across the US. One of these saddles is 8 years old, the other is 3 years  and shows no signs of damage or deterioration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5421" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T14:51:16.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13039" CreationDate="2012-11-03T16:51:32.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To ride a bike efficiently the ball of your foot must be over the pedal spindle and to answer your question, toe clips and straps are one way of doing this.  Up to the mid-80s that was the method used by all serious cyclists.  You could buy small, medium and large toe clips for any size of shoe to fix your feet in the correct position.  Metal or leather shoe plates with a groove  that fitted over the rear pedal plate were nailed to the soles of the leather shoes.  The strap had a quick release buckel and went through the pedal and through a loop on the toe clip.  When the foot engaged the pedal and the strap was pulled tight your foot was held very tight.  To get your foot out you had to bend down and flick the strap buckle, lift your foot and pull it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modern method is clipless pedals, they serve the same purpose, fixing the ball of your foot always over the pedal spindle.  The initial cost is quite expensive as you require special pedals, shoes and cleats.  When the cleats are fitted to the shoes you just have to push your foot down on the pedal till it clicks and to release it you turn your foot to the left or right.  The holding tension can be adjusted on the pedals to allow for easier entry and release.  They are very good and I recommend you buy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see and feel the benefit of fixing your feet just try going up a steep hill or sprinting as hard as you can, or ask yourself why do all the Pros use them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T16:51:32.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13061" CreationDate="2012-11-03T17:38:46.540" Score="20" ViewCount="59259" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend got a new city bike today and she touches the front wheel every time she has to make a hard turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyway to avoid this besides replacing the whole bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LATER EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I think I found my answer &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/general-cycling-discussion/toes-rub-front-wheel-264065.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5424" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T19:16:49.023" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T03:22:46.247" Title="Touching the front wheel with my foot when turning" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;toe-overlap&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13060" CreationDate="2012-11-03T19:45:27.397" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common problem, but really not a big deal. I've usually heard it called &quot;toe overlap&quot;. I have it on all my bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it's a bit shocking the first time it happens, but &lt;strong&gt;you get used to it&lt;/strong&gt;. It's no big deal. If you're simply aware that it can happen at slow speeds, you'll avoid it easily enough. Since it can only happen at slow speeds, it's not particularly dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's most common on racing-style road bikes due to their short wheelbase or on smaller frame bikes. Big tires and/or fenders can make it more likely. Big feet and shoes that stick forward of your toes very far also make it more likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solutions include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try not to worry about it. It's usually just an annoyance and you get used to it pretty quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't go slow (can't turn the wheel far enough for it to be a problem unless you're going slow).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When going slow and making a sharp turn, pay attention to where your feet are.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't pedal while turning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump the pedals instead of normal pedaling, so that only your inside foot goes forward&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your feet into a good position (outside foot just below where the pedal overlap happens) as you start to turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also pay attention when starting from a stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal with the ball of your foot over the spindle of the pedal. This is generally considered the &quot;correct&quot; place, and leaves your foot only going a little forward of the pedal. Some beginners put the arch of their foot on the pedal, which is likely to be uncomfortable on platform pedals, and puts your foot more forward.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe slide your foot back a bit as you're making a slow turn, so that you pedal with your toes instead. I find this uncomfortable, but it's tolerable for a few seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you're shopping for bikes, look at how much toe overlap there is. You don't even need to ride the bike, you can tell by putting the pedal forward, putting a foot on the pedal at about the right position, and turning the handlebars.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller riders may find that bikes with smaller wheels give them less toe overlap. 650b or 26&quot; instead of 700c?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Really, don't worry about it too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T19:45:27.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13064" CreationDate="2012-11-03T20:41:46.510" Score="4" ViewCount="36473" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fixed gear bike is going to want a new chain soon, how do I figure out which width I should use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T18:32:19.183" Title="How do I figure out which size chain my fixed gear bike has" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13062" CreationDate="2012-11-03T22:25:51.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There two sizes of chains that can be used on a fixed wheel bicycle 1/8&quot; and 3/32&quot;.  It all depends on the width of the teeth on the cog and the chain ring.  The most common one is 1/8&quot; as that is what is used on the track and BMX.  On bikes that have been converted from gears to fix are more likely to be 3/32&quot;.  My Son's bike has a 3/32&quot; cog, chain ring and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T22:25:51.140" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11266" CreationDate="2012-11-03T23:48:21.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the shifter cable out and lubricate it, or replace it if it looks like it needs to be replaced. If the pivots are as well maintained as you say they are, it could be the cassette that needs to be replaced. Most of the time you change an old chain, you need to change the cassette for things to continue to be smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you describe, the SX410 is super old, it might be worth it to have a mechanic take a look at it to make sure its properly greased. Once you've properly ruled out those problems, then try the Campy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T23:48:21.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13025" CreationDate="2012-11-04T00:15:38.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the Crank Arms from the spindle, apply a thin film of grease and retighten. If the aluminum crank arm binds on the steel spindle and doesn't seat cleanly it will make a popping sound as it try's to equalize the stress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5427" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T00:15:38.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9745" CreationDate="2012-11-04T01:02:33.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to purchase only 4 items to accomplish this swap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankset - Standard road triple &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat bar road shifter set ST-443&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FD-443 front derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly new cables, if they don't come with the shifters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A new chain designed for the number of gears in your cassette. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need to ensure that you've enough adjustment range on the frame to move your front derailleur up by up to 2cm, and that the derailleur you purchase is dual pull, so that you don't need a pull converter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it seems to me you've already worked that out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T01:02:33.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12947" CreationDate="2012-11-04T11:05:28.417" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the years I've used both and in my opinion hard tail MTB with 1.25 inch slicks or a hybrid is the way to go. What you lose in top speed you gain in durability. MTB is far better equipped to take the punishment of daily commute. There's nothing more annoying than changing tubes or sorting tangled chains when you should already be at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A set of hill climb / bar ends makes a huge difference and allows you to adjust riding position. If you need extra speed, get a set of riding shoes with cleats or just old school toe clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to the speed it really depends on the rider as much as it depends on the bike. I do frequently 30 to 50 miles social rides on the weekend and and I keep up on my 26&quot; MTB. The only times I'm in real disadvantage is long gently sloping downhills where I simply don't have high enough gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5429" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T11:05:28.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12947" CreationDate="2012-11-04T13:02:18.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of a road-bike for commuting, you could consider a &quot;hybrid&quot; bike that's intended specifically for commuting: see for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2767/1097&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/3056/1097&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commute is in traffic, so a lot of starting and stopping, and, all-weather riding: so flatter (instead of dropped) handlebars, disk brakes (useful in rain), mudguards, a rack and pannier, and other things you wouldn't find on a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hybrid will give many of the same speed advantages, e.g. no suspension, non-knobbly tires, and an adequate range of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T13:02:18.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13073" CreationDate="2012-11-04T15:27:23.487" Score="1" ViewCount="7327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 6.2 feet tall, and I have a mountain bike that is 17 inches long.&#xA;I know it looks bit small for me, but will I hurt myself by riding this bicycle? What should be the preferred bicycle length for someone my height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5430" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T20:47:00.467" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T20:47:00.467" Title="What difference does bike size make?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2012-11-04T17:34:25.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem in this type of debate is that most people will just quote &quot;accepted&quot; wisdom without personal experience. I will say at the outset that my own experience is limited to small wheeled folding bicycles. I have built wheels for several of these over the years and I always laced them until I came across a set of wheels that had been manufactured without any spoke lacing at all; they simply crossed over at the usual lacing points. I have ridden on these for 3 years now without any of the detrimental effects mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5431" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T17:34:25.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13071" CreationDate="2012-11-04T17:37:25.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That does seem small for your height. Are you hunched over while riding? Does your leg stay fairly bent all the way through your pedal stroke? Are you comfortable after riding for a few hours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The preferred bicycle size depends on more than just your height, and is best figured out by going into a bike shop, getting some help from the staff, and trying out a few bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally: You want to have the seat up high enough that at the bottom of your pedal stroke, your leg is just slightly bent, similar to how your leg naturally works when you walk. You want to be able to bend forward at the waist a comfortable amount that you could hold for hours, put your hands forward into a natural-feeling position, and have the handlebars right there. You don't want to have to 'reach' for the pedals. You don't want to have your knees bent too much. You don't want to be hunched over. You don't want to be stretched out. You don't want to be leaning on the handlebars. You want to be comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just your height that affects what size bike you want. It's how long your legs are, how long your torso is, how long your arms are, how flexible you are, and how much core strength you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 people that are both 6'2&quot; may have very different proportions (long legs with short torso, short legs with long torso, or anything in between) have different sizing needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, bike size affects both how long the bike is (from headset to where the seatpost goes), and how tall the bike is (from pedals to where the seatpost goes). Both go together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3 contact points: pedals, saddle and handlebars. You can't really move the pedals, except to get slightly different length crankarms. However, you can get a longer seatpost, seatposts with different amount of setback, and you can move the saddle around a fair bit. You can also get different stems and different handlebars to move the handlebars around quite a bit. All that means that for a bicycle that's only a couple sizes too small, you can probably still adjust it to give you a reasonable fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With an MTB that's ridden off-road, you may &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; a frame that's a touch small, so that when you fall with the bike between your legs, your feet can hit the ground well before your crotch hits the top tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: can you get the fit right on this bike? If it feels good to ride for hours and doesn't give you any pain, it's probably fine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T17:37:25.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13075" CreationDate="2012-11-04T20:35:43.880" Score="2" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've entered into a 50km xc race in 3 months time. I'm new to mtb and riding a 2010 Hardrock Disc that I originally bought for commuting. So far I haven't done any upgrades save getting a set of SPDs. I've started training for the race and worried that closer to the race some of the standard parts on my bike may start to give out. Due to lving in New Zealand it takes a few weeks to get decent parts shipped out here at a reasonable price (I can't afford the gap in training or cost). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SR Suntour XCT V2 forks that came with the bike so far are ok but should I be considering changing them and what low cost forks offer good value for money to replace them? Also what are some early indications of problems that I should be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T23:29:11.643" Title="Should I upgrade forks for a 50km race?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13074" CreationDate="2012-11-04T22:28:57.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to bikes.SE ..... (You may guess form the links I am also a NZer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a fan of upgrading parts on bikes. Normally a bike is made up of matched parts in terms of price and quality. Upgrading your Hardrock with say SID forks would be a complete waste of money - the bike will still be a Hardrock... New forks will cost $500 or more, plus installation, which is more than your bike is worth. Ask yourself, who is likely to know best, you or Specialized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Hardrock is a good entry level bike. It is designed for off road use - it will not break or get damaged any more than another bike. Better parts will not significantly improve the durability of the Hardrock. What happens with better parts is smoother operation, lighter weight and better handling -- overall a more enjoyable riding experience, especially if you are a skilled rider. With better shocks you get more options for fine tuning, better handling as they will hold the wheel on the ground for longer. (I am assuming XC, not national down-hill use). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you don't worry about parts. Find a good local bike shop (Checkout &lt;a href=&quot;http://vorb.org.nz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vorb.org.nz&lt;/a&gt; forums as it's a commonly asked question) and get them to look over the bike and maintain it if you don't know how. A good bike shop will even give you advice on what you can do yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the ride goes, my experience is you will see everything from 10-15 year old bikes, a few low-end and plenty of mid-end, and a few fancy $8k carbon bikes at the start. Don't be intimidated. After marshaling at the finish of an 80km event I can tell you that looking at the value and quality of the bike is a poor way to predict the order in which they cross the finish line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T23:29:11.643" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T23:29:11.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10270" CreationDate="2012-11-05T01:53:27.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as if you adjusted the barrel adjuster out too far, the last time you adjusted it, and damaged the threads on the adjuster.  When the shop cleans and lubes it, it is fine for a few days, and then gets stuck again, because the threads are cross threaded or stripped.  If the damage is relatively minor, it can act normal until it is under a little higher tension than average, and then &quot;jump&quot; out of place, whereupon it will be stuck, and out of adjustment almost immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, not having it in front of me, this is just conjecture.  You should find a shop you are confident in and explain the multiple issues, and ask them to find the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:12:29.930" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:12:29.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13078" CreationDate="2012-11-05T02:48:11.960" Score="8" ViewCount="3588" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2010 aluminum frame may be toast (stripped bottom bracket) and I was considering getting an older chro-mo frame and transferring the components to it.  It's a racing/sport style with drop bars and 24 speeds.  I'm an beginner/hobbyist bike mechanic, I have the basic tools and can take a bike apart and put it back together (given enough time ;)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I remember correctly some time in the past road wheels were commonly 27&quot;.  When did they switch to 700mm being the common size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I ride for leisure and exercise about 50 miles/week.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T18:56:27.517" Title="How feasible is it to transfer modern (2010) components to a 90s frame (road bike)" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13077" CreationDate="2012-11-05T04:00:02.060" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to make the switch, but there are a few components that probably won't be an even swap. This will depend on the vintage of the frame you're planning on using (and it really should be steel as aluminum doesn't age gracefully). Since I have a steel 1992 Bridgestone RB-T, I'll use it as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headset on your bike is most certainly 1 1/8&quot; threadless, while the headset on an older bike will be 1&quot; threaded. You will have to use a threaded fork and a quill stem. You may find it tricky to locate a quill stem to fit your handlebars if they have a larger clamp diameter (older bikes commonly use 25.4mm and 26.0mm bars). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel size won't be an issue. 27&quot; wheels have an ISO diameter of 630mm while 700c wheels have an ISO diameter of 622mm (4mm smaller at the rim). You'll want to make sure that your brake calipers reach the rim squarely, but that will depend on the frame. It really shouldn't be an issue unless you decide to run 650b wheels (which have many virtues). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bigger problem may be fitting your rear wheel in the frame. Presumably your rear hub as an O.L.D. of 130mm (i.e. 130mm wide). Most older frames (such as mine) have 126mm dropout spacing to accomodate 6 or 7 speed freewheels. There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10837/can-a-relative-beginner-adjust-spacing-on-a-501-cromo-road-frame&quot;&gt;resources on re-spacing your dropouts&lt;/a&gt; by bending the stays (this is only possible on steel frame bikes.) Alternatively, you could buy a freewheel rear wheel, but then you'd have to futz with your indexed drivetrain and that's no fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to make sure that you use the bottom bracket length specified for your crankset which may require removing the old bb components from your new(old) frame. With the right tools it shouldn't be difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those few things will be your bigger obstacles. There may be one or two other small things, but they'll be easy to work around. If you're serious about this, also consider that there are a great many steel frames from the 80s that are worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T04:00:02.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2012-11-05T13:29:11.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intuitively, I don't think it's possible to accelerate as much sitting down as standing up, no matter what gear you're in. Yes, standing up is less efficient, but it is faster over a short distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a road commuter/tourer (straight bars), I stand up in these situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pulling out at a junction in traffic, usually from a standing start. The acceleration is very helpful in this situation (but see below).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Racing (myself). At the crest of a hill, junction or anything that slows me down. My thinking is that this little bit of extra effort gets me back up to a cruising speed on the flat, after which I can relax, rather than spend the next minute or two gradually working up to it. I've got no numbers to compare, but it feels faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coasting downhill. Advantages include airflow to nether regions, leg stretching and seeing the view.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Racing up a steep hill. Joe Friel has written about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2010/08/hills-sit-or-stand.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;when to stand when climbing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When my muscles are getting tired on a long climb. Standing up uses some different muscles and it feels like a change is nearly as good as a rest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Big dislcaimer:&lt;/strong&gt; It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; more risky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swaying from side to side is obviously a bad idea if traffic is passing close by.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's harder to signal standing up when you need both hands to control the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any unexpected interruption to your forward motion (eg: potholes, drivechain issues) can throw you off the bike. (My last proper fall was when standing up pulling out at a junction - the chain jammed and, as my weight was off-centre, I tripped and slammed down on the tarmac. Fortunately I was only grazed and bruised and there was enough time for me to scrabble out of the way of traffic. However, if I had been sitting down it would only have meant a slightly jarred knee.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2018-09-26T10:20:20.780" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T10:20:20.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13062" CreationDate="2012-11-05T14:51:09.690" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a pair of calipers and measure the width of both the chainring and the cog.  If the width is much larger than 3/32&quot; then use 1/8&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have calipers, but have a piece of 1/8&quot; chain, then put the chain on the cog and the chainring and see if there is a large visible gap between the plates of the chain and the teeth, if so then can probably use a 3/32&quot; chain, if it's pretty snug you probably need a 1/8&quot; chain.  If you have a 3/32&quot; chain instead, then put it on both cog and chainring, if the teeth fit through the holes in the chain and the chain rests evenly on the cogs, you're probably fine with a 3/32&quot; chain, if it sits unevenly at all, you probably need 1/8&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a chain, then you could check for width markings on your chainrings and fixed cog, if they are single speed chainrings they tend to have a width marking on them (to distinguish between 1/8&quot; and 3/32&quot; sizes).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, If either the rear cog or front chainring is larger than the other in width, you need a larger 1/8&quot; chain (which really won't run poorly on a smaller chainring, but a smaller 3/32&quot; chain just won't fit on a 1/8&quot; cog or chainring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, If you're buying a 3/32&quot; chain, you'll probably find that as a 6/7/8 speed chain at most bike shops. You probably don't want to try to use a 9 or 10 speed chain on a single speed bike.  1/8&quot; chains are used exclusively for single speed setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T14:58:16.097" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T14:58:16.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12884" CreationDate="2012-11-05T21:45:04.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wike trailers makes a Special Needs trailer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wicycle.com/special_needs_extra_large_bicycle_trailer.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wicycle.com/special_needs_extra_large_bicycle_trailer.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5437" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T21:45:04.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2012-11-05T23:26:47.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to semi-disagree with many of the answers on here, perhaps on a technicality: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, standing is much harder on your bike equipment and does allow you to apply a signnificant amount of torque to the frame and components. For normal cruising riding, staying seated is likely the best route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instances where standing is required: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Offroad riding (MTB) - often quick burts of torque are required to quicky accelerate, such as to gain speed for clearing an obstacle. Standing is the only way to obtain these levels of torque. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Offroad riding #2: On hardtail mountainbikes, rolling over obstacles and taking jumps will hurt your rear and tailbone if you do not stand up. So when pedalling over obstacles, standing will often be required to prevent injury. This also will increase traction, as your body acts as the rear suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Onroad racing- Road racers often maximize their output and endurance by alternating between seated cranking and standing high-torque acceleration. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other scenarios as well, but in your specific situation, it sounds like you should try to remain seated as often as possible. You may have shifter alignment problems or some other drive train problem that could be exacerbated by high torque pedalling, and having a part fail while applying standing-level torque can be painful (trust me here!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5439" LastEditorUserId="30865" LastEditDate="2018-09-26T13:51:09.397" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T13:51:09.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13089" CreationDate="2012-11-06T05:56:22.170" Score="7" ViewCount="1407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that there are kids bicycle trailers, but are there adult bicycle trailers? Specifically selling in Australia? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T04:12:29.550" Title="Are there adult bicycle passenger trailers for adults in Australia?" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2012-11-06T20:49:38.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Doberman and I certainly wouldn't get the idea that you could &quot;stare them down&quot;. If it's one, get off and position the bike between you and the dog. DON'T turn your back, it WILL bite you. If it's two Dobermans, be prepared to be bitten by one of them; there's no fancy way around this. Just hope that their owner calls them off. And whatever happens, don't think that you yu can fight your way out it. You can't, and it will just make the dog madder. Sorry...but I wish you luck...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5399" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T20:49:38.623" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-07T01:39:42.943" Score="1" ViewCount="6379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bent my derailleur beyond repair today. I'm an inexperienced cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 5 speed Takara. Can I/Should I replace it with a 6/7 speed rear derailleur? I am having trouble finding a 5 speed one and the local bike shops are suggesting I just get a 6/7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, how difficult is it to install the derailleur? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5447" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2012-11-09T16:50:31.047" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T16:50:31.047" Title="Can you use a 6/7 Speed Derailleur on a 5 speed bicycle?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13087" CreationDate="2012-11-07T01:53:15.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm not mistaken, you're talking about non-indexed derailers, plus the chain width would be the same for 5 and 6/7, so there should be no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installing a derailer is a fairly simple task, in and of itself.  But you either have to break the chain or disassemble the derailer to get the chain threaded through it, and that's a little more involved.  Plus you need to adjust the derailer once installed (though adjusting a non-indexed derailer is almost trivial).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of this is beyond the abilities of someone with some mechanical ability and a modicum of patience, but it requires thought, care, and a few tools.  And note that you'll maybe want to replace the shift cable at the same time, as the existing is likely too frayed to reuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T01:53:15.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13084" CreationDate="2012-11-07T05:21:01.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are recumbent trikes available here in Australia which link together so that one tows the other - if the back person chooses not to pedal then it would effectively be a trailer, with the rear person just sitting like in chair.   These would be much lower and more stable than having a scaled-up kiddie trailer or wheelchair.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For slow speeds and a smallish adult have a look at a 'bakfiets' style cargo bikes, there are Australian brands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A longtail cargo bike might be an option too, if the passenger is able to sit up on one. (I use one of these for larger kids)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the specific brands and shops in Australia:&#xA;Linking recumbent trikes: &#xA;Hase Kettweisel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bakfiets style:&#xA;Kangaroo Bike (May or may not be that brand specifically ... I have seen this style bike ridden in Australia with a kangaroo logo on the side)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longtail cargo bikes:&#xA;Kona Ute&#xA;Yuba Mundo&#xA;Surly Big Dummy&#xA;Xtracycle conversion kits&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recumbent shops:&#xA;Flying Furniture (Canberra dealer for recumbents and other interesting machines for cargo and multiple people)&#xA;Trisled (Manufacturer in Melbourne, might be worth asking them about something custom built...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5449" LastEditorUserId="5449" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T05:02:11.797" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T05:02:11.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13091" CreationDate="2012-11-07T10:15:09.767" Score="12" ViewCount="8262" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much does weight mean when going uphill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I'm going up a mountain with 1000 m of elevation and it's quite steep: 10%. Let's also say I can maintain 250 watts. If I add 1 kg of weight to the bike, can I determine how much slower (in time) I will be? How many seconds will I lose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please show me the formula and calculation of this, and feel free to elaborate on the whole subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5450" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T19:43:16.883" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T11:02:29.430" Title="Extra power needed uphill for weight increase" Tags="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13090" CreationDate="2012-11-07T11:08:02.750" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presuming you are doing a standing start and coming to a complete stop at the top of the hill.  The simple requirement is you need energy to move your from the bottom to the top.  Most of the energy required will be to raise potential energy of the payload (you and the bike).  Essentially you will be creating kinetic energy (moving the bike) by converting chemical energy in your body.  There will be loses due to heat, friction with the road surface and air resistance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disregarding them for the moment (they are not negligible, but complicate the calculation).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potential Energy (PE) = m * g * h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;m = mass &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;g = gravitational acceleration &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;h = height&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PE is proportional to m, so a 10% increase in mass will increase the PE by 10%.  Meaning you will need 10% more kinetic energy to get to the top of the same hill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power is work done (energy) divided by time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P = W / t&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P = Power in watts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;W = work done or energy in Joules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;t = time to do work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your power is constant we can rearrange the equation to get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P = (m * g * h)/ t&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;becomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;t = (m * g * h) / P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so with constant power, gravity and hill height your time will increase proportional to increase in mass, given by the above equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no wind air resistance will become less relevant the slower you are going.  Friction will increase due to increase in weight.  The steepness of the hill is theoretically irrelevant in this calculation.  You are gaining the same amount of Gravitation Potential energy when you the same mass to the same height.  So it shouldn't theoretically matter whether the hill is 10% or double as long and 5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as you are generating the energy you need to create it from chemical energy, and there is only so much you can generate at one time.  Your muscles will become inefficient and therefore on steeper hills you may require more energy than less steep ones.  So on a steeper hill wind resistance might become less relevant but power (how much energy you can put out over time) to weight ratio will become the most relevant factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am trying to point out in the last paragraph is that the energy you require to put into your body and for your body to convert into forward motion is not the same as the simple kinetic energy required to get you to the top of the hill.  However all things being equal a change in mass will have the same affect on the time as I stated in the equations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T11:08:02.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13090" CreationDate="2012-11-07T11:57:35.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I on one ride add 1 kg of weight to the bike, how much slower (in time) will I be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you and your bike mass 100kg (in round numbers), an extra 1kg causes a 1% increase in weight, i.e. a 1% increase in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potential_energy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;potential energy&lt;/a&gt; associated with climbing the hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your power output is constant, that implies a 1% increase in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However some of your power output is going to overcome wind and rolling resistance, not potential energy. If only half of your power is going to potential energy (which depends on weight), and half is constant (independent of weight), I think that would imply a 0.5% increase in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does that make sense, I don't think so without saying how many watt I output, lets say I make 250W&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I wrote above is unaffected by your total power; the change is relative rather than absolute: i.e. it's 1%, no matter what it's 1% of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Handwaving#Science_and_engineering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hand-waving&lt;/a&gt; in my statement is &quot;If your power output is constant&quot;: which is true if you have fine control over your gears (so that you can, like, you know, gear down by 1% in order to adjust to the 1% increase in the weight-and-therefore-effort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The change isn't actually linear: for example if it were a 1000kg increase in weight, i.e. 1000% instead of 1%, you'd need to gear down so far that you'd be going so slowly that you couldn't stay upright on a two-wheeled bike. For relatively small increases in weight, though, I expect the difference in effort (and therefore also, via the hand-waving outlined above, the difference in the duration) to be approximately linear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T16:48:55.987" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T16:48:55.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13090" CreationDate="2012-11-07T12:56:52.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Joule is a Newton-meter and is also a Watt-second.  Gravity is about 9.81 Newtons/kilogram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raising 1 pound 1000 feet would be raising 0.4536kg 304.8 meters.  So that would be 9.81 * 0.4536 * 304.8 = 1356 Joules, or 1356 Watt-seconds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your peak sustained energy output is probably in the general range of 300 watts (and &quot;cruising&quot; would be somewhere around half that), so you'd have to use all your energy for about 4.5 seconds to raise that one pound 1000 feet.  (Or, to put it in perspective, about 19 minutes to raise a 250 pound bike+rider 1000 feet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your assumed 250 watts, this would be 5.4 seconds for one pound or 22.6 minutes for 250 pounds.  This would produce a speed, on the 10,000 foot distance, of about 5 mph.  (Note that dropping much below roughly 200 Watts will produce a speed too slow to stay upright, especially given that the slower you go the more energy you must expend trying to stay upright.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is ignoring wind and rolling resistance losses, and hence the time required to &quot;cover the distance&quot; on level ground.  Rolling resistance would be about the same as on level ground, but wind resistance would be less, since you're moving slower, and wind resistance is generally the larger of the two.  So you need to add to the above times maybe 1/2 or 2/3rds of the time it would take you to cover the same distance on level ground.  For a 10% grade that would be the time to cover 10,000 feet or about 1.9 miles.  At 15 mph that would be about another 7.5 minutes, so add maybe half that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rats&lt;/strong&gt; -- Just realized the question was in kg and meters...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;If I on one ride (of 10,000 meters at 10%) add 1 kg of weight to the bike, how much slower (in time) will I be (assuming 250 watts output)?&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would be 9.81 * 1kg * 1000 meters * = 9810 watt-seconds.  At 250 watts that's 38.84 seconds additional time due to adding 1kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And it occurs to me...&lt;/strong&gt; that one could use the same calculations backwards in order to roughly calculate wattage output, given a weight, an average speed, and an average slope.  This would likely be more accurate than many other wattage estimation schemes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:44:03.353" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:44:03.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13090" CreationDate="2012-11-07T12:57:26.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already pointed out by the other answers, an additional kilogram is rather negligible when concerning purely the additional potential energy you need. But there are other factors where it may have a more or less larger effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly your body does not necessarily respond linearly to higher load. As long as you are in a region where you can do the uphill without noticeable fatigue you will just be a bit slower with the same power output. But if the uphill will bring you to your limits even without the additional weight, every additional gram will bring you to your limit a bit earlier and make it more hard to go on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also mass is playing an important role every time you have to accelerate it in some way. Some things I think about are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smoothness of the uphill:&lt;/strong&gt; The approximation which concerns only the potential energy works the better, the smoother the uphill is. If you go up on a constantly inclined, paved slope where you can assume to ride with nearly constant speed, there shouldn't be much of a difference. However, if you go mountain biking on a way where you have lot of &quot;action&quot; on the bike (climb up steps, try to keep traction on loose ground, switch between steeper and flatter sections), it can be different. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Place&quot; of the additional weight:&lt;/strong&gt; It can make a difference where you add the weight. The largest effect will be if you have additional weight on rotating parts (wheels, drive train). But also a heavier bike itself will make it feel less responsive which will make your muscles go tired faster if you have to do a lot of bike handling stuff during the uphill (therefore it is again related to the smoothness of the uphill). If you had the additional weight in your backpack instead, it would have a much smaller effect.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: Just from the additional potential energy point of view it may not make much of a difference but if you concern bike handling or fatigue close to your limits, it will have a larger effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T11:02:29.430" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T11:02:29.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13163" CreationDate="2012-11-07T13:56:18.450" Score="54" ViewCount="5258" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last weekend, I was driving (yes in a car, something I rarely do) down a fairly steep and &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; curvy mountain road (thus with very poor sight lines/visibility ahead) when I noticed a cyclist in my rearview mirror.  He looked &quot;pro&quot; and in control, but was close enough to me that I was worried that if I braked to slow down for one of these curves, I was going to have cyclist splattered all over the rear of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After longer than either one of us would have liked (two minutes or so), I finally got ahead of him enough to slow down a lot and pull far to the right on a stretch with enough visibility for him to pass me on the left (since he was clearly wanting to go much faster than I was comfortable with on the curves) and I rolled down my window to wave &quot;OK&quot; to him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As he passed he yelled at me (yelling's understandable in this cases, only have a second) about cars needing to pull aside for cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I felt terrible if I'd endangered him or caused him to damage his brakes or whatever to slow his speed more than he liked.  And I don't even care what the law says if I could do something better to accommodate fast downhill cyclists better in the future, I'm just trying to figure out what I should have done differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the cyclist wanted me to pull over as soon as I noticed him.  In retrospect I guess I could have done that safely by putting on my emergency blinkers to indicate to him I'd seen him and was planning to slow down.  In the moment, I was worried about how close he was, how variable my speed was around the tight curves, how narrow the road was, and how scant little I could see ahead of me (i.e. I wasn't going to pull &lt;em&gt;left&lt;/em&gt; to let him pass me on my right, since I could kill him if I needed to come back right quickly due to oncoming car.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have strong feelings about things I should/shouldn't do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not worried about my rights - I'm far more often the one on the bicycle - so just help me figure out what I should do better next time to accommodate him if I were in similar situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1228" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T16:06:39.193" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T12:23:18.397" Title="Protocol for downhill cyclist overtaking a car?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13095" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:04:25.380" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I think you handled the situation pretty well as it was. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've got to get yourself to the bottom of the mountain safely and even in locales which have laws about deliberately impeding following road users you will have to allow people to pass in a manner safe for you, this isn't necessarily going to be immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems to me that this particular cyclist was just a little too impatient - he'd almost certain have yelled something at you if you'd pulled straight over the moment you'd seen him. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your responsibility is to get home safe, not to jeopardise that just so some hot-head can beat his &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt; segment performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:04:25.380" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13095" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:06:08.857" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opinion is that no one should be forced to either drive faster than they feel comfortable by &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; following vehicle. It's a principle of safety that everyone must feel in control of their vehicle. Likewise, I think no one should be forced to pull over by an impatient following vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you chose to pull over and let the cyclist through, you did so out of politeness and consideration, the same way many farm vehicles here in the UK do when a half-mile queue has built up behind them. I don't think the cyclist had any right to expect you to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:06:08.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13098" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:20:36.687" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T14:20:36.687" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:20:36.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13099" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:20:36.687" Score="0" Body="Issues of behaviour between cyclists and other road or trail users, including other cyclists, drivers, pedestrians and horse riders." OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T16:06:46.213" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T16:06:46.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13095" CreationDate="2012-11-07T15:53:55.747" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this should be viewed from a strictly legal or normative point of view, so I'll give my impressions as a former driver and as someone with some experiences of overtaking cars downhill by bike, either on-road and off-road (unpaved roads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, if you drove like you were alone (hypothetically speaking), by no means you would endanger a cyclist. A biker coming down a steep road can sometimes be way faster than the car, but the rider still can choose whether or not to overtake a car, it's an option and it's the rider's responsibility. In the other hand, following a slower vehicle is not dangerous per se, just an annoyance, and if no overtaking is possible the rider should stop the bike and wait for a gap to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, usually it's &quot;common sense&quot; for the bolder cyclists not to count on driver's cooperation in such situations. What myself and a lot of friends of mine expect from drivers is that they &quot;do nothing, let us bikers handle this&quot; (we even adivised this explicitly to a driver who went first on a steep offroad section once, and it worked great). Cyclists, thus, would expect the driver to just go on its way, and wait for a good oportunity without counting on driver's cooperation. That applies specially to very bold ways of going downhill roads by bike, most of them not agreed-upon by the rules of this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even having considered all of this, if the rider couldn't pass because of the road, and the driver would like to help the rider someway, I think the best thing for the driver to do is to wait for a curve in the opposite direction (to the left in coutries with right-lane-driving), and decrease speed slowly and steadily so that the rider can jump ahead safely and go on. No need to get out of the road or to stop the car, but a blinking light, a short horn and/or a hand wave would be perfect. I think it is important not to do anything of these suddenly, but instead very smoothly so as not to scare or unbalance the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the driver's point of view, this stragety (slowing down until the rider overtakes) is safer than hurrying to try to open a gap from the rider, because in such roads bikes can be very fast with relative safety, while with cars safety levels quickly drop with speed increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-11-09T13:33:35.613" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T13:33:35.613" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-07T16:29:58.260" Score="2" ViewCount="2919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a GT Aggressor 1.0 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specs here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gtbicycles.com/2013/bikes/mountain/trail/aggressor-1-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gtbicycles.com/2013/bikes/mountain/trail/aggressor-1-0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently on a long ride, the crank started to roll freely after a long downhill.  i.e. when pedaling, the cycled does not move because the rear freewheel simply rolled freely without engaging.  I think the problem is with the rear hub which may need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From looking at the specs, the hub is a &quot;Alloy Cassette Disc QR&quot;.  Trying to find it at amazon.com, there were so many to chose from and did not know which one to purchase to replace this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11300" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T17:02:18.267" Title="What hub to purchase for a GT aggressor?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13101" CreationDate="2012-11-07T17:02:18.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of wheels that will fit that bike, and they may very well be less expensive than having the hub overhauled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to find a 26 inch wheel with an 8/9 speed cassette compatible hub, with 32 spokes ( that's the 32H part )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually don't see any on Amazon.com that fit the bill. This is one of those times I would head into the local bike shop to make the wheel replacement process quick and easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T17:02:18.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6922" CreationDate="2012-11-07T17:12:04.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in South Central Wisconsin and have been commuting year round (on roads with there fair share of pot holes and such) for 3yrs now and have found a regular old commuter tire works just fine.  I favor the Serfas City Drifter 26x1.5.  As far as 700's go, if you wanna pony up a little more cash I hands down suggest the Schwalbe Marathon Dureme.  I just switched to this tire for touring and from January till July no blow out.  These things are solid!  No matter what, if you hit ice just right, your gonna have a bad time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5453" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T17:12:04.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13095" CreationDate="2012-11-07T17:12:30.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been the cyclist in this situation a couple of times and I think you handled it well.  One big problem is that the cyclist can't really tell if the driver is 1) aware of the cyclist, and 2) attempting to cooperate, and the driver in turn can't tell if the cyclist is even willing to consider passing the car in less than ideal circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you as driver need to do two things: 1) Watch for the cyclist to &quot;make his move&quot; and don't make any sudden actions that would conflict with that, and 2) look for an opportunity to produce an OBVIOUS (and obviously safe) passing situation by pulling off on the shoulder or otherwise making the driving lane largely clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, if you simply slow down and pull over a little it may simply irritate the bike rider who's not prepared to take advantage of the opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And, no, there are no hand signals for this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T17:12:30.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13095" CreationDate="2012-11-07T17:19:58.977" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maintain driving position and speed dictated by road and weather conditions. Be aware of cyclist but do not feel rushed to pull over if you want to let them pass, it is up to the cyclist to wait for a safe stretch of road to overtake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liken it to as you would when driving behind a tractor (or any slower moving vehicle), you should (and likely do) wait patiently for the tractor to find a suitable place to pull over and relieve trailing traffic or for a clear stretch of road to execute a safe overtake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cyclist was arrogant and rude so for that, as a cyclist, I apologise on behalf of the rest of us. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5432" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T17:19:58.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13095" CreationDate="2012-11-07T17:31:23.907" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclists in the road are subject to the same rules as cars. This includes speed limits, passing safely, signaling, all of it. He has no more right to &quot;expect&quot; you to pull aside for him than he does if he's driving his car. It's nice that you let him pass, but you were under absolutely no obligation to do so, unless you were going markedly slower than the posted speed limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T17:31:23.907" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14393" CreationDate="2012-11-07T18:48:16.903" Score="17" ViewCount="3638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in what the best ways are to keep your face and feet warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw some shoe covers on amazon, but they all seem to require you to be riding clipless which I do not. I think if I used a shoe cover, the bottom of it would get all ripped up by the teeth of my pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The face is another challenge I have. I usually like to use biking glasses, but recently I started using a balaclava which covers my nose and mouth. As soon as i started breathing my biking glasses started fogging up! Is there a balaclava solution that works with glasses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T22:27:11.413" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T09:49:53.763" Title="Winter commuting - how to keep warm?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2012-11-07T19:50:30.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The balaclava is definitely the way to keep your face warm. Try spraying your glasses with some anti fog spray to solve the breath problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/797482/tyr-anti-fog-spray&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/797482/tyr-anti-fog-spray&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/718017/fogtech-advanced-anti-fog-solution-bottle&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/718017/fogtech-advanced-anti-fog-solution-bottle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't willing to give up the abrasive pedals, you should just get some actual boots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T19:50:30.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13111" CreationDate="2012-11-07T19:56:48.003" Score="10" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted a cheap commuter bike, and just received &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009URZ8LK&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bike&lt;/a&gt; from Amazon. I have little knowledge about bikes, but looks like the middle chain-ring is broken to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this indeed broken, or is it something that is not too big and can be safely ignored? (I am still to get my tools so haven't yet assembled the bike, so can't say if it shifts/rides alright in that ring.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is not something to worry about for now, how long do will it last till major problems start showing? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XF1So.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here][1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Larger version of the picture &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CDiLg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5456" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T02:08:03.157" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T03:12:14.570" Title="Do I need to get a replacement bike for this broken chainring?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13110" CreationDate="2012-11-07T20:14:21.357" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those notches are used when shifting gears, as you move the derailleur, the chain moves and catches on a notch and switches from one chainring to another adjusting the gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not need a replacement bicycle, this is a nice bike and with proper maintenance (keeping the drive train clean and lubed) should last a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T20:14:21.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2012-11-07T21:02:11.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A pair of skiing goggles is my non-fogging option when it is really cold and/or snowing. Most models have vents that help air circulation along the glass and a coating that keeps them from fogging. The larger space between the glass and your face helps, so get big ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it isn't too cold, and there is no chance of snow I just skip the eye-protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T21:02:11.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13123" CreationDate="2012-11-07T21:25:45.687" Score="2" ViewCount="2886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting a new road bike.  Would a light spritz of teflon spray help in repelling dirt and moisture?  I wouldn't coat it completely, just focus on those dirt collecting areas, the undersides of the frame, the crevices on the brakes and derailleurs, etc. and of course &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the brake surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an &quot;internet bike&quot; I'll assemble myself, so I don't have the guidance of an LBS for these things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastEditorUserId="5382" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T22:01:48.340" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T17:38:37.137" Title="Spray new bike with teflon to repel dirt and moisture?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2012-11-07T22:41:10.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You ask about a balaclava - I can highly recommend the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.assos.com/en/19/singleProduct.aspx?cat=6,19,31,39&amp;amp;prod=406&quot;&gt;Assos facemask&lt;/a&gt;. The downside of this will be the price, but as with anything Assos make, the quality is the best on the market (imo). This is my second winter with mine and last year was fine. Note from the photo in the link the loops above the ears....for your glasses. But I think if you ride with both nose and mouth covered a certain amount of fogging is inevitable. Personally I hate the feeling of having something over my nose or my mouth so always have the bottom between chin and mouth, if you see what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also mention booties. There are lots out there offering thermal properties, but I think you are right about wear and tear. I cycle at either end of a train journey. At one end (country roads) I use clipless pedals, at the other end (big city) I use flat pedals. The flat pedals most definitely cause wear and tear. My solution? Nothing fancy I'm afraid - I stump up for a new pair every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T22:41:10.733" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13124" CreationDate="2012-11-07T22:46:22.573" Score="6" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was biking home last night and had a minor bike accident with a child of around 12 or 13. It was around 6pm on a mixed use pedestrian+bike path and completely dark, with little lighting on the path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going uphill maybe going 8mph, he was on the downhill. I was well lit (headlight + white flashing light on the front of my bike, with full reflectors including reflective vest), he was unlit, no reflectors (except half a yellow reflector on one pedal). I saw him at the crest of the hill, he was on his side of the path, I was on mine. Then not more than 10 or 20 feet in front of me, he suddenly swerved into me. I was against a fence and had no where to go, so I yelled at him and just clamped on the brakes as hard as I could before he hit me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the left side of his bike clipped the left side of mine, but both of us ended up on the ground, he seemed ok, and got up on his own after laying there for a moment -- he did have a bleeding finger, but he was able to bend it without pain. He wasn't wearing a helmet.  I asked him where his mom was and he said she was biking nearby, so I asked him where I could find her. He called her on his friend's cell phone (who also had no helmet or lights or reflectors) and told her to come. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked if he was ok or if he hit his head, he said he was fine and didn't hit his head. Mom showed up a few minutes later (no lights, reflectors or helmets) and said &quot;What did he do?&quot; so I told her what happened and pointed out that he needs to have reflectors and a helmet, and she said &quot;but it was light out when we started riding&quot;. I also told her to check him for head injury just in case he hit his head on the ground, and she kind of rolled her eyes at me. My bike was ok, I was ok, he seemed ok, and mom just wanted to leave so I just left it at that and continued home without incident (I did discover the next day that my head light was scraped up and the light mount was cracked, but I had a spare mount so that was easy to fix), but after leaving I'm wondering what else I should have done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We didn't even exchange last names, I got one picture of him and his bike with my cell phone camera but that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I have called it in to the police? California law requires riders under 18 to wear a helmet and to have lights at night. Should I have said more to the mom about helmet and reflector use? Should I have gotten his full name in case I discovered significant damage or injury later? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or since neither of us was injured was just biking away the right thing to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first real accident in over 15 years of riding, I always figured that when I did have an accident it would be with a car, I never thought that it would be with a snot-nosed (literally) kid on a bike path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastEditorUserId="3361" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T21:34:48.973" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T11:12:12.430" Title="What to do after an accident with a child?" Tags="&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13117" CreationDate="2012-11-07T23:13:30.057" Score="12" ViewCount="18464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of teenagers riding BMX bikes recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that most if not all of the guys I've seen riding their BMX bikes around the streets, car parks, local parks, etc have a frame that's really small, and a saddle that's as low as possible.  It looks like the rider's knees are above their waists for much if not most of their stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the local parks has a dedicated BMX track with actual racing taking place on it.  When I watch those guys they never seem to have their saddles all the way to the bottom.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thought occurred that it might have something to do with trick riding but none of the kids with bikes set up like this seemed to actually be doing tricks. They'd just be riding the bikes normally or even just sitting on them outside shops. Their bikes also didn't seem to be set up with trick riding in mind, most of them didn't have those bar things projecting from the wheel hubs for the riders to stand on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this really low saddle something they're doing to be cool? Or are there some real tangible advantages to this seating position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T00:30:12.967" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T20:00:54.773" Title="Why are BMX saddles so low?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2012-11-07T23:30:33.280" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low seats provide clearance for more acrobatic body movements. This is essential for bunny hops and nearly every other trick which builds off of this skill. If you look at trials bikes they similarly have lots of clearance for the rider over the frame and the saddle. Since speeds are relatively low, and long distance riding is not the goal, pedaling efficiencies gained by a higher seat position are much less of a priority than vertical maneuverability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per Daniel R Hick's comment BMX bikes are also commonly used for children's bike's as they are easy to learn on because of the low seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case fashion follows function. Just because the particular riders you see aren't tricking doesn't mean there isn't a valid functional reason for this kind of setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastEditorUserId="3047" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T04:08:35.143" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T04:08:35.143" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-07T23:30:38.443" Score="6" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21201.htm&quot;&gt;California Vehicle Code&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(d) A bicycle operated during darkness upon a highway, a sidewalk&#xA;  where bicycle operation is not prohibited by the local jurisdiction,&#xA;  or a bikeway, as defined in Section 890.4 of the Streets and Highways&#xA;  Code, shall be equipped with all of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(1) A lamp emitting a white light that, while the bicycle is in&#xA;  motion, illuminates the highway, sidewalk, or bikeway in front of the&#xA;  bicyclist and is visible from a distance of 300 feet in front and &lt;strong&gt;from&#xA;  the sides of the bicycle&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cygolite.com/products/expilion400.html&quot;&gt;pretty bright Cygolite headlight&lt;/a&gt;, but it emits practically no light from the sides, if you look at a 90 degree angle you can't see any light at all from the headlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this strictly legal under the law? I do supplement with a blinky light that  provides some side illumination (though I'm not sure you could see it from the sides at 300 feet from the bike), but I'm wondering if my headlight meets the letter of the law? If I'm ever in an accident, I don't want the other driver to be able to say &quot;How could I have seen him, he didn't even have the headlight required by law!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at a few other states but they didn't have any requirement for side visibility of the headlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastEditorUserId="5459" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T07:21:23.187" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T02:16:06.750" Title="Is a headlight required to emit light to the sides?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;visibility&gt;&lt;california&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13113" CreationDate="2012-11-07T23:40:25.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back when I had a shiny new bike, I used to use car wax on the frame to keep the paint shiny, and at the time I thought it made cleanup easier because I could simply rinse the frame with a little light rubbing to get the dirt off. But I've never waxed my 3 year old commute bike and it's the same - rinse and a light rub gets the dirt off (unless it's greasy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried Teflon spray, but I'd be worried about it getting on the brake pads and rims, no matter how careful you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T23:40:25.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10473" CreationDate="2012-11-08T00:06:03.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barometric altitude is far more accurate than GPS over several hours IF you have it corrected for the air pressure. Air pressure does not vary quickly. &#xA;So if you calibrate a barometer to a known altitude (using a marker, sign, map, or very good GPS fix) it is much better than GPS for measuring an altitude profile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5460" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:06:03.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13118" CreationDate="2012-11-08T00:17:47.763" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What the code is saying is that your headlight has to be visible on the sides. That's why most modern bicycle headlights have those little clear plastic channels on the side for the light to seep through and be seen from the side. ( The idea isn't to blind people GordonM )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it really reaches 300 feet, maybe it doesn't, the traffic police probably aren't going to pull you over and measure. But if you do get in a crash, the other person's lawyer may very well get clever and bring this up, so if you're worried about that, make sure your supplemental blinky light reaches far enough to satisfy the law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that you want other bicycles and cars to be able to see you so that they don't hit you. If you are in an accident with a car or truck, there's a chance you'll be fatally injured and whether or not you adhered to the law won't mean anything. So be safe and make sure your lights are bright enough for other people to see you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T19:11:20.327" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T19:11:20.327" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13115" CreationDate="2012-11-08T00:36:47.480" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No laws on this in most places because no motor vehicle. But good sense to trade info, take pix. I think the kid has the liability here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5460" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:36:47.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13113" CreationDate="2012-11-08T00:44:47.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used the teflon spray on my cross bike before, especially when it was new, it seems to keep the dirt away for a short period of time, but only a few days. After that it's back to the usual dirt and moisture build up, what seems like more than you can tolerate when you stil want your bike to feel shiny and new. I wouldn't say it's worth the trouble if you're already going to spend the time to rinse the frame with water and a towel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will help, but don't rely solely on the teflon spray to keep moisture out of those hard to reach places, cable housings and other such crevices where you don't want water to hang out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:44:47.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13115" CreationDate="2012-11-08T01:57:38.147" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live there is a legal requirement to report any injury accident to the police, and from past experience they would call a bleeding little finger an injury. However, I personally would not bother for such a minor injury, they will fill the report and forget all about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as other legal issues (Again, speaking from my own) - you stopped, ascertained injury and damage and rendered assistance - you fulfilled you legal obligation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that you did way more than was really needed, and had/have real concern for the other person -  there is little else anyone can do, especially if offers of assistance are turned down and advice is shunned.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the issue of lights and helmets - there is not much you can do about it and you went beyond what is morally required (Sounds like mum probably thinks way beyond). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of weeks ago a friend of mind had a teenager (No helmet) T-Boned her car at an intersection - he came off a foot path at high speed and could not stop. He and bike flew over car bonnet leaving a small dent, he cracked his head on landing. Although dazed, he refused offers of help and a ride home etc, and rode off before an ambulance was called (Here there is no cost for medical treatment for accidents), despite several bystanders &quot;suggesting&quot; that he needed to be checked out. What else could she do?  These things happen - especially with kids and teenagers, as long as no one is seriously hurt, it's a good day &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T01:57:38.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13126" CreationDate="2012-11-08T02:03:42.173" Score="2" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that when you get new wheels you should put a couple hundred miles on them to let everything get set in and get an initial stretch, then do a tune up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just go by feel and tighten the spokes that seem a litte lose?  I don't think the wheels are untrue, they're heavy duty wheels.  Are there any tricks to this initial tune up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T03:31:24.740" Title="Is it difficult to do a post-break-in wheel tune-up?" Tags="&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13125" CreationDate="2012-11-08T03:29:17.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has been mentioned in the comments, you should take it to a shop. You're likely to do more harm than good if you're not already experienced in at least truing and preferably building wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also might not even take a couple hundred miles. I'd probably check on it once a week or even every couple days. Feel the spokes. Once it gets to a point where there are notable differences in tension, go ahead and take it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T03:29:17.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13125" CreationDate="2012-11-08T03:31:24.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't cut corners or your new wheels won't last as long as they could, or worse, they might not last at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are entire books written on truing bicycle wheels. Before you attempt to maintain your wheels yourself, without the shop, read those books, buy a good truing stand, and even then, practice on wheels you don't care about. There is an art to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T03:31:24.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13113" CreationDate="2012-11-08T17:38:37.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started using &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005177XBG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pledge Wipes&lt;/a&gt; and find that the bike looks shiny and clean, and cleans up very easily after my cyclocross races, simple light water and dry and is back to being shiny and clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dirt does still 'stick' but comes off so easily, and with the shine, I do think it is applying a small layer of something to the surface of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with the other answers, I don't apply this to brakes, brake surface (wheels), tires, rubber, drive train... just the frame and fork. The wipes come in a container that you can get at the grocery store and I find one wipe does the bicycle and then I toss it, I have re-applied with a new wipe every couple months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T17:38:37.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13095" CreationDate="2012-11-08T19:36:12.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cyclist doesn't know what you're thinking, so doesn't know if you'll follow the rule of law, some method agreed on here as the preferred approach, or if you're a reckless driver (though based on what you say here clearly you're not reckless, but very considerate).  As a result I'd say the following rules of thumb are the ones to go by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure your safety - i.e. don't do anything which would cause undue risk for yourself just to let someone overtake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't do anything which is clearly wrong - this goes without saying but included for completeness.  By this I simply mean don't try to cause problems for the cyclist (some drivers would attempt to antagonise the cyclist to indicate that they didn't want someone overtaking them).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indicate / communicate your intentions.  As stated above the cyclist knows nothing about you or your driving style.  If you indicate what you're intending clearly they get a warning before you take action and can then think about what they'll do given your intended action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5466" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T19:36:12.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11031" CreationDate="2012-11-08T19:55:02.140" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about Europe/UK, but in the US, the left hand controls the front brake as well as the front derailleur. The right hand controls the rear brake and the rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I like the front brake on the right hand. It's more consistent when I'm riding my bicycle or my motorcycle. (Right hand front brake)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my mechanical disc brakes, it's easy enough to swap the cable over, leaving the levers in place. On my mountain bike with hydraulic disc brakes, it's not as easy. I could swap the levers, but then the bleed hole is upside down. To do it correctly, I would need to disconnect the lines into the lever and swap the lines. This would require a minimum a complete bleed of the system. It may even require new hoses, depending on your brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure your mechanic understands this and is guessing that if you get use to it, you'll be fine because most bikes are setup this way. If you jump onto a friend's bike, more than likely it will be setup left front/right rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People hate borrowing my bikes because of my brake setup (Which is fine by me!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5467" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T19:55:02.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2632" CreationDate="2012-11-09T04:21:44.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some general principles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't like sucking exhaust fumes, so avoiding traffic whenever possible is my first priority.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safety is my next priority, which means avoiding cars as much as possible.  I'm lucky that here in Vancouver we have lots of separated bike lanes and lots of designated bike routes that go through quiet residential streets and have traffic-calming measures to keep the cars going slow on them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other thing I take into account when finding a route is that I don't like to go up a hill and then immediately back down (or down and then back up).  I'd rather ride farther and go part way around a hill than go up it and then coast down the other side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T04:21:44.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2012-11-09T05:43:58.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worn Scott skiing goggles and never had peripheral vision problems, just be sure not to wear tinted in the dark.  Really helped with wet sloggy winter commutes to Seattle.  Wool sweaters and socks work when wet, which can be either rain or sweat.  Also have a nice gore-tex helmet cover.  Remember the old adage:  if your feet are cold, put on a hat.  Keep your head warm, and you will have less trouble with your feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5471" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T05:43:58.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13142" CreationDate="2012-11-09T05:51:18.683" Score="1" ViewCount="6695" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I simply choose one shifter without taking into consideration the derailleur that will be used with it and vice-versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5472" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T17:27:36.967" Title="Are shifters compatible with different derailleurs?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13141" CreationDate="2012-11-09T06:23:52.310" Score="3" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it OK to choose a derailleur without taking into consideration the cassette that will be used with it and vice-versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5472" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T20:16:31.747" Title="Are derailluers always or usually compatible with any cassettes?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="530" CreationDate="2012-11-09T06:27:04.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used the stick on patches. The durability is conditional with proper installation.&#xA;1-scuff the tube&#xA;2-try and have the tube the same size as the inside of the tire.&#xA;3-after placing the patch on the tube take a smooth object and rub air out from under the patch. This is the most important step! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5473" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T17:59:14.863" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T17:59:14.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13134" CreationDate="2012-11-09T07:11:25.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, different maker or different model with different number of &quot;speed&quot; shifters have different pull ratio (i.e. the length of cable pulled by a single shift).&#xA;Usually it's safe to use different model with same number of gears from the same maker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T07:11:25.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13140" CreationDate="2012-11-09T08:48:00.353" Score="1" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm buying a new touring bike. I need an opinion on some of the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankset: Shimano XT FC-M770&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette: Shimano XT CS-M770&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT M772 SGS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Derailleur: Shimano XT M770 Top Swing 9sp Front Mech&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain: Shimano Dura-Ace/XTR 7701 9 Speed Chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these compatible with each other? I can get a good deal on these components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also looking for 9 speed compatible bar-end shifters. Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3870" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-11-10T21:00:24.903" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T21:00:24.903" Title="New touring bike components" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13143" CreationDate="2012-11-09T11:07:58.950" Score="2" ViewCount="10524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried a few brands of inner tubes for off road riding, mainly slime and dr. sludge but recently I have suffered more punctures than I'd care for despite the 'green goo'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what are people's recommendations for good off road inner tubes or tubeless systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5432" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T04:24:38.640" Title="Which MTB Inner Tubes" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13138" CreationDate="2012-11-09T12:15:44.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are all compatible. Generally speaking, 9-speed Shimano mountain bike parts are compatible with one another without. If there's an exception to that rule, I've never seen it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you might want to check is that your frame will be compatible with your top swing front derailleur. It's fairly likely that your touring frame is set up for bottom pull. If it is, you're better off getting a bottom-pull derailleur. There may be a way to make it work, but if so it's out of my realm of experience. And if you're getting new parts anyway it's just easier not to mess with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the shifters, just make sure that they're compatible with a 9-speed shimano mountain bike derailleur. You won't get good shifting out of one that's designed for road derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as opinions and/or suggestions about what brand or model to buy specifically, those are generally considered off-topic per the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/faq&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T12:15:44.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13135" CreationDate="2012-11-09T12:23:02.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's best, though not always entirely necessary, that the number of speeds match. There are some cross-compatible options, but if you're unsure it's better to just stick with a derailleur and cassette that were designed to work together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also important to consider the size of the cassette in comparison to the amount of chain slack that the derailleur is capable of taking up. A road derailleur will often not work with a mountain bike cassette because it can not take up enough slack to account for the size of a mountain bike cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, a cassette and derailleur that are the same number of speeds, made for the same type of bike, and made by the same manufacturer will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T12:23:02.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13134" CreationDate="2012-11-09T12:54:03.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Derailers differ in the amount of &quot;pull&quot; needed to get from one gear to the next, and, for front derailers, whether they are &quot;spring in&quot; or &quot;spring out&quot;.  Neither of these mattered much before indexing, but with indexing a mismatched shifter will mean that you can never get shifting to work cleanly over the entire cog range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As imel96 says, though, generally a shifter of the same brand and number of gears should be compatible with a given derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T12:54:03.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13139" CreationDate="2012-11-09T13:12:47.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maxxis DH or Freeride tubes.  They're not light but I've only ever once punctured the DH model - a 6inch nail through both side walls, so I won't hold it against them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T13:12:47.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13145" CreationDate="2012-11-09T15:10:30.480" Score="7" ViewCount="2022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to purchase a supernova infinity-8 dynamo hub and wanted to use this during daylight hours to charge my Phone and GPS during bike tours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What products are available that will work with hub dynamos to charge iphone and Garmin GPS units? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T11:11:00.787" Title="What options do I have to charge my GPS and Phone using a dynamo hub?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;&lt;iphone&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13144" CreationDate="2012-11-09T15:30:17.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's one option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://h1987995.stratoserver.net/magento/supernova-the-plug-ii-plus-usb-dynamolader.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://h1987995.stratoserver.net/magento/supernova-the-plug-ii-plus-usb-dynamolader.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SUPERNOVA The Plug II Plus USB power supply&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transforms dynamo AC to exact USB spec. DC 5V, 500 mA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E‐Bike compatible for 12‐ 48V DC with optional cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Works with Garmin, Ipod&amp;amp;Iphone 3GS &amp;amp; 4G &amp;amp; 4GS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems pretty expensive at €159, but since it's from SuperNova, it should work perfectly with your hub. It's only rated at 500mA, so it'll only do &quot;slow charging&quot; of your phone - most smart phones these days use a 1000mA (or higher) fast charger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those in the USA, here's a domestic source:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6V22K44405&amp;amp;cm_re=SUPERNOVA_dynamo-_-9SIA6V22K44405-_-Product&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6V22K44405&amp;amp;cm_re=SUPERNOVA_dynamo-&lt;em&gt;-9SIA6V22K44405-&lt;/em&gt;-Product&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$156 + shipping. Still seems expensive given that they sell the hub itself for only $216.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastEditorUserId="29219" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T16:16:09.640" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T16:16:09.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="530" CreationDate="2012-11-09T16:37:55.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had no problems with the Park ones that I haven't had with 'proper' ones and haven't felt the need to replace them when I get in. Like regular ones, my experience is that if it's on, it's on and if it's still good after 24 hours then it'll last as long as the tube. I've had some issues with getting them to stick in the rain but I think that probably applies to all patches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5477" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T16:37:55.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13139" CreationDate="2012-11-09T19:02:36.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kibbee is on to something, your tire is your best defense against punctures no matter the terrain. Try using Continental Trail King tires or Continental Mountain King tires and you will surely see a decrease in punctures. Most tubes will hold up the same, if I had to pick one I'd say go with a continental tube or stick with the slime tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T19:02:36.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-09T23:01:57.190" Score="0" ViewCount="1980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an aluminum road bike frame that I want to use to build a fixed gear. My problem with this frame is that it has vertical drop out and no derailleur hanger. Fr&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5478" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T01:00:31.033" Title="Where can I go to change the vertical drop out for a horizontal drop out?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13148" CreationDate="2012-11-09T23:37:46.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would have to go to someone that knows how to weld aluminum to weld you on a new dropout. I don't think you want to do that. It would be cheaper to find a frame / entire bike designed to be a single speed in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T23:37:46.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13148" CreationDate="2012-11-10T01:00:31.033" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't necessarily need horizontal drop-outs to make a fixie. You could also get an eccentric hub such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whiteind.com/rearhubs/singlespeedhubs.html&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.  This allows the chain slack to be taken up without using horizontal drop outs. They also have eccentric bottom brackets but I think they require a special frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T01:00:31.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13144" CreationDate="2012-11-10T01:39:55.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/reecharge-dynamo-kit-micro-usb-cable&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Biologic ReeCharge&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dahon.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dahon&lt;/a&gt;. It says it hooks up to any standard dynamo hub. The nice thing about this is that it has its own battery. So the dynamo charges the internal battery and the battery charges your phone/gps/device. This allows you to charge while you are resting, as well as provide added protection against sending bad current to your device.  I don't have any experience with it, but the idea is sound, and Dahon has many good products. It sells for $100 which isn't too bad considering it has its own battery.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="10493" LastEditDate="2018-07-02T11:11:00.787" LastActivityDate="2018-07-02T11:11:00.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-10T19:37:16.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used both types of valves in  tubes. In my view the presta is strictly for narrow rims. I prefer schrader valves my self for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the schrader valve tubes will hold high pressure the same as the presta.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are easier to fill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they are easier to check the pressure using standard pressure guages found anywhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say this based on more than fourty years of repairing and riding bicycles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you prefer presta then I can say that a presta valve in a schrader rim is usually no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5483" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2012-12-31T10:42:41.007" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T10:42:41.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2012-11-10T22:41:47.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got sick of flatting while training on regular road tires.  I went with some Continental Gatorskins and in two years have gotten only two flats -  one involving a sharp stiff wire and the other a bent finishing nail.   I have had no flats from glass or other road debris, and no sidewall cuts. Although not the lightest tire, they are not especially heavy and any small weight differential is more than made up by not having to break from a nice rythmn to fix a flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am stunned at how effective these puncture resistant tires are, and wish I had switched to them earlier. I have also found them to be more comfortable, and they wear well. &lt;strong&gt;However, they are not inexpensive and my experience is that the Gatorskins are difficult to install.&lt;/strong&gt; They tend to fit tight (this is confirmed by other posts on the web about installing Continental tires).  I mount and and unmount the tire a few times (without the tube) before doing the final installation with the tube.  This stretches the bead enough, so that I can be comfortable knowing that if I do get a flat I can remove the tire with the small plastic tire levers that I carry. It also avoids damaging a new tube on the difficult initial installation.  Note: The performance benefits and installation issues discussed here may differ for other brands of puncture resistant tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5484" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T15:08:02.557" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T15:08:02.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2012-11-11T01:11:53.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the other responders have covered most everything, but I thought I'd throw in a few more cents worth of comments. Everything has costs and benefits. Some riders spend big dollars for light wheels, so they are not going to erase those expensive gains with heavy tires. Personally, it would be better and cheaper for me if I dropped a few pounds off my waistline, so I am less interested in wheel weight and more interested in sturdy wheels and low maintenance tires which seldom flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run 700x25C Continental Gatorskins on my main road bike. The wire bead version of this tire clocks in at around 300 grams (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/race/racetyres/gatorskin/gatorskin_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;according to Continental&lt;/a&gt;). The folding version clocks in at 250 grams. As a point of comparison, Continental GP 4000 tires clock in at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/race/racetyres/grand_prix_4000/grandp4000_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;240 grams&lt;/a&gt;. They are also folding tires (no wire bead means lighter). The difference in weight between the folding and wire bead versions is about two ounces; the difference between wire bead Gatorskins and very light racing tires can be around 150 grams (five ounces). The difference between light wheels/light tires and typical stock wheels/puncture-resistant tires (say, Mavic Aksium Race wheels with wire bead Gatorskins) could be as much as a full pound (16 ounces, 450 grams). That will be very noticeable to any rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In approximately 6500 miles of riding, I've had two flats. One was a cut by a piece of metal (pictured &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/760458-Can-this-tire-be-saved?p=13087931&amp;amp;viewfull=1#post13087931&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;; IMO, no tire would have stopped it), and one was a goat head thorn. Three or four riders in my cycling group are also riding on Gatorskins, and in approximately 10,000-12,000 miles on those tires-- including some long-distance riding, like San Francisco to San Diego-- at most one or two flats, total, not counting the ones I experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One rider in my group was using a set of cheap tires, and repeatedly flatting... bits of wire, glass, you name it. He switched to Gatorskins, and I can't recall the last time he had a flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get tires with a greater puncture resistance than Gatorskins-- for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_plus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Marathon Plus&lt;/a&gt; tires, which are around 640 grams each (my scale), in 700x25C-- but they are considerably taller (may not fit on some bikes) and require some practiced skill to mount easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T01:11:53.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13167" CreationDate="2012-11-11T04:56:36.487" Score="4" ViewCount="1981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some clipless pedals I salvaged (part of a crankset) and installed on my bike. It's the winter right now and I don't really want to be clipped in. I don't want to replace the pedals either - mainly because one of them is stuck :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they make some kind of clip on platform for clipless pedals that I can install in lieu of the proper shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5488" LastEditorUserId="5488" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T05:01:59.860" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T15:59:22.067" Title="Clipless Pedal - Flat Attachment" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13160" CreationDate="2012-11-11T06:04:02.353" Score="1" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;When biking, I'm not so concerned about how the temperature will fluctuate. I'm much more concerned about whether or not it will rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes wonder about two things: Will it rain in my city? If so, when?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please teach me the best way to find answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't point me to the local weather services' &quot;hourly forecasts&quot;. They're too vague for me to completely understand, as detailed in the small print below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;My government's weather service is called Environment Canada. They publish a probability of precipitation (POP) when the likelihood of rain or snow is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ec.gc.ca/meteo-weather/default.asp?lang=En&amp;amp;n=2D8EBDE4-1#c2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;maybe&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. They say it's the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ec.gc.ca/meteo-weather/default.asp?lang=En&amp;amp;n=2D8EBDE4-1#c2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chance that measurable precipitation [...] will fall on 'any random point of the forecast region'&lt;/a&gt; during the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ec.gc.ca/meteo-weather/default.asp?lang=En&amp;amp;n=10220A6B-1#c3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;forecast period&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. This is confusing. But, taken together with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Probability_of_precipitation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;relevant Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;, it's understandable.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Some other weather services offer &quot;hourly forecasts&quot; for my city. But I don't understand their stated POPs. I did &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=hourly+probability+of+precipitation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a Google search&lt;/a&gt; which led me to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/showthread.php?t=198717#post3725278&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a post by Trigonal Planar&lt;/a&gt;. Here's a Trigonal Planar quote which I have modified to reflect my current guess at what hourly POPs mean. &quot;The chance of rain [during] a particular [period] is 20%. But during the [period], certain hours are more or less prone towards producing said rain.&quot; This is still too confusing.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;So, if you point me to a weather-forecast website, please point me to one where I can find a clear definition of each included element.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T19:46:00.177" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T19:46:00.177" Title="I know there are better rain-forecast sources than &quot;hourly forecast&quot; websites. What's the best such source?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;weather&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-02-01T04:20:40.860" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13157" CreationDate="2012-11-11T06:04:02.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My city contains a large airport. I've discovered that some weather services provide terminal aerodrome forecasts (TAFs) for that airport, and that TAFs are well-defined. Some websites that provide TAFs include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.checkwx.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CheckWX&lt;/a&gt;. The easiest to use. (For a demonstration, go &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.checkwx.com/wxmain/code/EGLL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and click the &quot;Forecast&quot; tab.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aviationweather.gov/adds/tafs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;US NOAA Aviation Weather Center&lt;/a&gt;. My favorite. Enter an aerodrome code, click &quot;Translated&quot;, then click &quot;Get TAFs&quot;. (For a demonstration, go &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aviationweather.gov/adds/tafs?station_ids=EGLL&amp;amp;std_trans=translated&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The demonstration links I provided are for London Heathrow airport. It's very rainy there, so the forecasts can be confusing. Alternatively, try checking the forecast for a less-rainy aerodrome:  e.g. KDEN, KBOS, or KORD.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;Temporary&quot; or &quot;Probable&quot; group can modify the group that precedes it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All times mentioned in TAFs are &lt;a href=&quot;http://time.is/UTC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UTC&lt;/a&gt;, not local time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mist&lt;/a&gt; is a type of fog, not a type of rain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All the elements in an American TAF are defined in an article entitled &lt;a href=&quot;http://aviationweather.gov/static/help/taf-decode.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;TAF Decoder&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T21:16:49.143" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T21:16:49.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13157" CreationDate="2012-11-11T06:36:49.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/radar/index_e.html&quot;&gt;http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/radar/index_e.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the moisture radar, it's your best tool to see when the rain is coming and when it's going with great detail. If you take the time to familiarize yourself with it you'll start to get a feel for how different types of rain look on the radar and where it's going to hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T06:36:49.570" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13095" CreationDate="2012-11-11T07:06:51.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sharing my point of view. I am pretty much an aggressive rider anywhere: commute, uphill, downhill and tours. Drivers in my nation have a lot of pride on what they drive and think cycling is one of low classed activities (applies to all type of people). So I hardly receive a co-operative response anywhere on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As sad as it may sound, it always depends on me to maneuver to safety. Here is what I do to overtake the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First of all, I try to find enough space for me pass through without a problem .&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I can't, or the driver is not caring about me (or too much concentrated on driving), I look at the view mirrors to find out the his driving side (generally, right in my country) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I try to draft with the vehicle until the driver notices me and does something about it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or, I draft with the vehicle because as soon as I find an opening I can slingshot pass him.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and sometimes, I try to knock the vehicle with hand and signal to assist me. Or wave my hand to get his attention&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yelling also helps sometimes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my commutes, local bus are really a threat to me because they will force a cyclist out of way if they have to. On such conditions, overtaking/riding in your own way, being safe depends on you and your skills to tackle such situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="847" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T07:06:51.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13095" CreationDate="2012-11-11T08:25:04.643" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please accept my apologies on behalf of cyclists. Hollerin' something at a motorist who was trying to figure out how to handle an obviously unclear situation was inappropriate. Thanks for doing your best and not killing any cyclists that day!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I agree with the other answers here that &lt;strong&gt;you handled this fine&lt;/strong&gt; and there isn't some magic you could have worked to make the situation go away. Having frequently cycled one of the curviest and steepest highways in the US, I have often been in the position of your cyclist. I also know from a drivers perspective of the same road that there are not a whole lot of obvious moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primarily impetus for any action should probably be on the cyclist. As a motorist being aware helps a lot; but don't try to do anything fancy. Keep it simple. Watch for what kind of move the cyclist wants to make and adapt, but &lt;strong&gt;be consistent yourself&lt;/strong&gt;. He's trying to guess how your car is going to behave -- if you change patterns on him, all bets are off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The easiest place for a cyclist to pass&lt;/strong&gt; is usually the place where cars naturally go the slowest. This means curves. Straights are hard because cars speed up (and try to pass each other). While we do have to follow the rules of the road, passing on a double yellow curve is sometimes the safest thing to do on a bike. Inside curves (left turns for US folks) provide the most visibility and a chance to cut a shorter path than the car. &lt;em&gt;The best thing you can do is stay all the way in your lane and take the curve easy.&lt;/em&gt; Let the cyclist make the move. You don't have to be in the shoulder or pulled over or anything, just keep your own company and don't wander all over the road yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's ok to brake.&lt;/strong&gt; Cyclists have brakes too and there is no physical reason we are forced go fast or follow close. If you want to be extra nice, when you do brake, touch the brakes lightly at first so your brake lights come on early and gradually add pressure to slow the car. In fact, &lt;strong&gt;if a cyclist is following you too closely and you are uncomfortable, tap the brakes a couple times&lt;/strong&gt; to signal you need room to brake. You don't have to actually brake, but the brake lights are the best signal you can give to indicate you want the cyclist to add some distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn signals are confusing, but usually a right from you means you are going to pull over and a left means you can see the road is clear to pass. However, these are not set and stone and the cyclist still needs to make a judgement call. Hazard lights are even more confusing: I would save them for indicating true hazards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a long story short, drive normally and safely yourself, and let the cyclist take care of the passing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1340" LastEditorUserId="1340" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T12:23:18.397" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T12:23:18.397" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13157" CreationDate="2012-11-11T12:14:42.273" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally use Yahoo weather service as I have found it the most reliable for hourly predictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.weather.com/weather/hourByHour-CAXX0518?cm_ven=yahoo_uk&amp;amp;cm_cat=citypage&amp;amp;cm_ite=weather&amp;amp;cm_pla=hourly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Try this.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5432" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T12:14:42.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-11T13:42:07.097" Score="1" ViewCount="4049" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crank is slipping freely occassionally when pedaling; occasional &quot;clonk&quot; sound-not sure where sound is coming from-crank is tight, no movement or looseness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5491" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T20:37:26.013" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T09:12:46.300" Title="Crank is slipping freely occassionally when pedaling; occasional &quot;clonk&quot; sound" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13156" CreationDate="2012-11-11T15:59:22.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used platforms similar to this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=22313&amp;amp;category=1669&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=22313&amp;amp;category=1669&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after looking around a bit, I saw this product, which looks a little more rugged since you screw your actual cleats into the platform to clip it in rather than relaying on the molded plastic of the platform:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/deckster_clipless_pedal_adapter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/deckster_clipless_pedal_adapter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But have found that these platforms are really a temporary solution meant to let you ride to the corner store, not meant for long term use. Since the platforms clip in like a shoe, they can clip out like a shoe and they float around a bit, so don't feel super stable. Also, they make the pedal top heavy, so the platform always ends up on the bottom and you have to flip it around (gently) so you can get your foot on it - if you hit it too hard when you're trying to flip it, it's easy to knock the platform off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to try to get the stuck pedal off and put on the pedals you want to use. Here are some tips on removing a stuck pedal: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8512/removing-a-stuck-pedal&quot;&gt;Removing a stuck pedal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had to resort to using heat, but I've been told that it's a sure fire way to loosen a stuck pedal because aluminum expands more than steel when heated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But first, as mentioned above, make sure you're unscrewing in the correct direction, and use a good quality pedal wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T15:59:22.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13165" CreationDate="2012-11-11T16:33:17.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More information would be helpful. What kind of bicycle? How old is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the bike has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;freewheel or a freehub&lt;/a&gt;, there are a couple of things you can check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the bicycle has a freewheel (in other words, if it is older), it may &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html#lube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;need lubrication inside the freewheel&lt;/a&gt;. Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is a great lube for that application, or you can buy various oils. I would advise against using WD-40 for lubricating a freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar kind of skip/slip can happen occasionally (say, once in a few hundred miles of riding) with a freehub, and it doesn't necessarily mean anything is wrong. However if it is more frequent, you may want to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freehub-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;service the hub&lt;/a&gt;, or have your local bicycle shop service it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the freewheel/freehub is not the source of the problem, the drivetrain may be worn. The chain can skip, or jolt forward, if the cogs in the rear are worn excessively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T16:33:17.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13165" CreationDate="2012-11-11T17:20:57.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this happen when the chain gets &quot;trapped&quot; between two chainrings, or more often between bigger chainring and chainguard (if the crank has a round chainguard type), or more often yet between two rear cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no other probable cause, this is something that should be looked for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T17:20:57.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13171" CreationDate="2012-11-11T17:41:10.550" Score="11" ViewCount="3035" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are hand-built wheels considered to be better than machine-built wheels? I would think that a machine-built wheel would be better and cheaper, since machines generally do a more precise job than humans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T10:19:08.247" Title="Why are hand-built wheels considered to be better than machine-built wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13170" CreationDate="2012-11-11T18:41:10.507" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a machine-built wheel can be just as good as a hand-built one, and vice-versa. This is probably an algorithmically solvable problem, so given fair conditions, whether human or machine - following the same rules for truing a wheel and tensioning the spokes - should achieve indistinguishable results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three factors, though, that enter in the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are some &quot;tricks&quot; to improve wheel quality that involve more than just turning the nipples. The most critical one, in my experience, is to properly bend the spokes around the point where they interlace one another, as recommended by Sheldon Brown &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (look at the picture with the hammer, and the one where he uses a crankarm to bend the spokes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Humans are better than machines to cope with the unexpected. In case of a malformed nipple or spoke, or any other surprise, a human can identify and correct a fault that a machine could let pass undetected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The very REASON why a factory would choose to use a machine instead of a hand-building scheme has to do with cost-benefit of mass-production. It is not infrequent for this to go hand-in-hand with lower quality. So, a hand-built label would work as a &quot;no-compromise&quot; label for some products.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-04-23T10:19:08.247" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T10:19:08.247" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13170" CreationDate="2012-11-11T19:13:05.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing is that the spokes need to be different to facilitate the machines doing the lacing (or at least this was once the case, according to Peter White).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But certainly a machine can produce a decent wheel more cheaply than one can hire one hand-built.  It's more a question of going beyond &quot;decent&quot; to &quot;better&quot; quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(BTW, I recommend building (or rebuilding) your own wheels a few times, if you're reasonably mechanically inclined.  There are good step-by-step instructions available from several sources (including Sheldon Brown as mentioned in another reply), and it's a not-too-unpleasant way to occupy a few winter evenings with bike-related stuff when you can't be on the road due to the weather &amp;amp; darkness.  You may not even do as well as a machine, but you do get a sense of accomplishment, and it makes wheels less intimidating.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T19:13:05.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13175" CreationDate="2012-11-11T19:34:07.373" Score="3" ViewCount="6072" Body="&lt;p&gt;Half a year ago I started to use again my old Schwinn Woodlands MTB for commuting. I didn't want to spend a fortune on a new bike, I wasn't certain that I would like to bike commute daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike has kinda old equipment: screaming Shimano cantilever brakes and Shimano SIS derailleurs (48-38-28, 14-28). Steel wheels. Highest gear is too slow for me. However, the good old heavy CrMo frame is comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I used the bike a lot mainly for commuting, touring. Now I'm at a crossroads. &lt;strong&gt;I'm thinking of buying a new bike (brand new or used) or re-equipping the old bike.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;strong&gt;I would like better brakes and a bigger gear ratio on a workhorse.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I buy a new bike, I would probably choose a new or used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merida.com.au/2012-bikes/fitness/crossway/crossway-100-d.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Merida Crossway 100D&lt;/a&gt; /&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merida.com.au/2012-bikes/fitness/speeder/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Speeder&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merida.com.au/2012-bikes/fitness/s-presso/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;S-presso&lt;/a&gt;. I think a trekking bike would be better than MTB because of speed. I've tried a Crossway but at first it was strange, although I loved the big gear ratio and disc brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I would reequip my bike, I would use Shimano Alivio V brakes (maybe with red/blue Ritchey brake pads), derailleurs and shifters and 7-8 level sprockets. I also need to change wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dilemma is that is it worth to spend half price of a used bike to my old bike?  to reequip? Or is it better to sell it and buy another (new) bike. There are used bikes with quite acceptable prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2012 models are on sale nowadays, although I'm a bit skeptic that I really need a brand new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4629" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T20:08:33.570" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T02:57:04.610" Title="Am I better off buying a new bike, or upgrading my old bike?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13139" CreationDate="2012-11-11T20:38:52.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to understand why you are puncturing- are you getting &quot;snake bites&quot;, or is it being caused by object penetration.  Looks at the punctured tube - if the holes looks like its been bit by a snake, (surprise) its a snake bite.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snake bites - aka Pinch Flats  - cause by low tire pressure -  when you hit an object hard the tube gets pinched and punctures - tire choice wont help much, meaty tubes will help only a little, but more air pressure in the tire is the real answer. If you don't want more air pressure, then tubeless completely solves this problem (and replaces it with &quot;burping&quot; the air out of it's not a good system. I know you have said that you are inflating them properly, but you have not said what &quot;properly&quot; is, (pressure is not enough as we do not know you riding style, weight, speeds you hit etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Penetration Punctures - if you are getting these regularly, its good to understand why. Do you ride an area with problems such a plants with sharp spikes, trails made with nails etc. Do you make absolute certain that the object is no longer in the tire after fixing a puncture.  In that case, Kevlar Armour is required.  Again - heavy tubes help, but the tire should be stopping sharp pointy things getting to the tube. If you are using good quality tubes and your MK's are puncturing, I suspect there little you can do about it - maybe add some gator skins and see if it helps - or there are Puncture proof tires available, although I have never used them.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One hint is to always mount the tire in exactly the same place on the rim after a puncture repair. If you re-puncture in the same place as last time, its likely the tire still has something stuck in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option to try is cheap department store tyres - these tend to be excessively heavy and have thick casing - making them surprisingly resistant to all sorts of problems - perhaps its more to do with the speeds you (cannot) obtain when riding on them more than there robustness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T20:38:52.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13173" CreationDate="2012-11-11T20:55:36.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Daniel said - I would suggest looking for a newer second hand bike closer to what you want. the cost of components, along with compatibility issues, will like make the exercise more expensive with a bike that has a few niggly problems that just won't go away.  However, it you are particularly attached to the frame, it might be worth while. Consider getting a donor bike, as whole bikes are usually significantly cheaper than the sum oft there parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go down the seconds hand or new path, Jamis (an I am sure others) make mid and high quality steel bikes (Look for the Dragon range in MTB) for those of us that appreciate the advantages of steel. At the highest end, the weight penalty is so small it can be ignored. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit :  &lt;a href=&quot;http://urbanvelo.org/steel-road-bikes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;List of steel road bikes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T20:55:36.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13173" CreationDate="2012-11-11T22:08:00.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an '86 Peugeot Orient Express which is not too different than your Schwinn. The bike pictured below is very similar to mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PJqaK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mid 1980&amp;#39;s Peugeot Orient Express&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not used the bike as a commuter, but I have put around 1400 miles (2250 km) on it in the past few years. It's a great bike, very well-built, with gearing similar to yours. I use it as a townie, when riding with the kids, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only real complaint is that the handlebars are flat. For short rides, I can live with that, but for longer rides (&gt;20 miles/32 km), I don't like it at all. I like moving my hands around on the bars as I ride. I've even considered putting some road bike handlebars on it, just so I could move my hands to different positions when riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only things which have stopped me from upgrading significantly are 1) my Peugeot weighs around 35 lbs (about 16 kg); 2) it would be difficult to use the current brake levers and shifters on road bars; 3) in for a penny, in for a pound: if I am going to upgrade, why dick around? In other words, I would want to get rid of the heavy bolt-on wheelset, the drivetrain, everything. That means some serious dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame on that Peugeot is Tange gaspipe, which rides great, but I think putting big dollars into upgrading would, in some sense, be like perfume on a pig. It borders on false economy, considering that a much nicer, lighter, more modern bicycle can be had for just about the same money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Meridas you linked look OK, and if you can afford decent components, that might be a good choice. Here in the USA, you can get some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/cafe_century_pro_xi.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pretty decent deals on similar bicycles&lt;/a&gt; from online sellers. I don't know if there are equivalents in Australia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I throw in my $0.02, assuming you will be riding the bike a lot-- commuters can really rack up the miles-- and that you can secure the bicycle adequately at work, I'd encourage you to get a full-on road bike. I know of riders who went with a hybrid bike and regretted it later, as evidenced by their road bike purchases, but I don't know of any who went with a road bike and later decided they would be better off with a hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If necessary, make do with what you have at the moment, and save for a better bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T02:57:04.610" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T02:57:04.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1667" CreationDate="2012-11-12T06:34:07.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first autumn. Here are my (quite immature, but nevertheless) thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When one is stationary and not carrying a backpack, heat loss occurs due to convection and radiation. If clothes are used, that are properly strapped at the wrists, waist and ankles, only radiation remains significant. Therefore, thick, layered clothing with homogeneous distribution over the entire body makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite different when riding. The &lt;em&gt;torso, higher legs and the head&lt;/em&gt; generate the vast majority of heat (which is abundant, as we all know, when riding). For those areas something to brake the wind ought to be sufficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The areas that need warmth are the joints. This mandates the use of &lt;strong&gt;gloves&lt;/strong&gt; and ,IMO , &lt;strong&gt;knee pads&lt;/strong&gt;. Add to this that knee pads have other advantages, such as supporting the joint that we, cyclists, (ab)use the most, and physical protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, only the &lt;strong&gt;scarf&lt;/strong&gt; remains. It doubles as throat insulation and as breathing aid in the cold air, that a physically active individual inhales rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Conclusion: wear light clothing at the torso and higher legs and pay special attention (i.e. a lot of protection) to the extremities and the (fore)head.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T06:34:07.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13181" CreationDate="2012-11-12T06:47:14.987" Score="3" ViewCount="4432" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's getting chilly out there and my knees are starting to hurt from my short commute. I tried layered trousers (thick jeans + windstopper on top), but to no avail - my knees still get cold, while my whole legs sweat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of some kind of kneepads. If a product could provide (listed in decreasing order of priority): &#xA;&lt;em&gt;(1)warmth&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(2)comfortable to wear all day, under baggy trousers&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(3)knee joint support, as this is the joint I (ab)use the most&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(4)knee protection during falls&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;it would be perfect!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried two types: volleyball sports soft pads, and medical support pads (from the pharmacy, very cheep). The volleyball are wonderfully warm; however both begin to come loose after maybe half an hour of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="2611" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T10:09:09.210" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T13:41:57.777" Title="What can I do to keep my knees warm?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;protection&gt;&lt;wind&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13178" CreationDate="2012-11-12T08:43:18.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could modify a pair of thermal socks. Snip off the toe region and slide the thermal tubes over your knees with the heel pit over your knee cap, should be a good fit. You might also want to try a wind resistant material as it is likely to be the cold air rushing past that is causing the symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5432" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T08:43:18.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13178" CreationDate="2012-11-12T09:27:00.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get explicit cycling knee warmers - I have a pair &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rapha.cc/merino-knee-warmers&quot;&gt;of these&lt;/a&gt; which see a lot of use (and sometimes go under jeans, very comfortably, if I'm out of an evening too). They are great for the morning commutes where it is cold but likely to be warmer by the time of the return journey, but also for the longer rides where you start colder than you'll finish and you need the flexibility to remove bits of kit. You can get fleece lined versions which are &lt;strong&gt;even&lt;/strong&gt; warmer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're not cheap - but there are other cheaper alternatives designed to a similar style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't offer explicit knee support, but if you need support for your knees when going about your day, then I doubt a cycling Q-and-A site is the best place for your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if you think your cycling is causing your knee pain, I'd recommend a visit to your local bike shop and ask them about whether your bike is fit and adjusted properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T09:27:00.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13178" CreationDate="2012-11-12T13:34:46.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/PRD~5021-691/mec-roubaix-tights-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MEC Roubaix Tights&lt;/a&gt; down to about -10c and haven't had any problems with my legs or knees getting cold.  The front and backs are made of different materials so the front of your legs stay warm because they stop the wind, and you legs stay cool (not sweating hot) because the backs are breathable and let the heat generated by your muscles out.  I'm on my third season with them and they are still holding up quite well.  Defintely worth the money.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They might be a little warm to wear under trousers but they are close fitting enough that they would fit under baggy trousers.  Although I just change at work when I get there.  If you don't have actual change rooms and showers, the handicapped stall in the bathroom usually provides plenty of room for changing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as knee joint support goes, you should probably just get a proper knee support from the pharmacy, and wear it under (or over, depending on fit) the bike tights.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T13:34:46.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13178" CreationDate="2012-11-12T13:41:57.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use knee support bandages (tubes) from the pharmacy, to wear under trousers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T13:41:57.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-13T02:38:24.787" Score="1" ViewCount="1629" Body="&lt;p&gt;After just purchasing a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lemondfitness.com/product_detail/465/lemond-revolution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lemond Revolution trainer&lt;/a&gt;, I noticed and realized as soon as I set it up that I would be loosing my rear wheel and its spoke attached speedometer magnet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any alternatives to buying the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lemondfitness.com/product_detail/470/power-pilot-for-revolution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lemond Power Pilot for Revolution&lt;/a&gt;? The Power Pilot at $439 USD its quite an expensive piece of hardware, costing nearly as much as the trainer did itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3573" LastEditorUserId="3573" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T12:58:57.207" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T12:58:57.207" Title="Is the Power Pilot the only speedometer / computer that will work on a LeMond Revolution Trainer?" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13185" CreationDate="2012-11-13T02:50:53.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No it looks the Power Pilot is not your only option. It may be the case that any standard magnetic bicycle speedometer can be made to work with the Lemond Revolution trainer. The Lemond revolution does have an embebed magnetic sensor in it's flywheel. So all that is needed is a way to position and attach a speedometer sensor, so that it can read the magnet embedded in the flywheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2XEDN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of the Magnet in the Lemond Revolution flywheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Experiment which resulted in a working and realistic reading from my low cost speedometer setup consisting of the following ingredients:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bell Platinum Series, Bell Wireless Cyclocomputer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Four zip ties&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sturdy heavy gauge steel wire&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Electrical tape (to wrap around the wire to protect the bicycles paint)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pliers to bend and shape the wire such that the sensor lines up properly with the magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hQ4Vz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3573" LastEditorUserId="3573" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T03:17:38.427" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T03:17:38.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3570" CreationDate="2012-11-13T02:51:59.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bike was a garage sale or dumpster find, sure, put vegetable oil on it. I do it to old kids' bikes. It works ok, and doesn't get them as greasy as motor oil or axle grease. I've seen a lawn mower that someone filled with canola oil instead of motor oil, and it ran just fine for a long time, though the oil did thicken up and stink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW there is a vegetable oil based chainsaw bar oil on the market, and I've used cheap corn oil with a little used motor oil as a bar oil for months. It works great, but smokes a little, and has to be drained from the reservoir or it will congeal some. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some chains aren't cheap. The new &quot;9 speed&quot; chains are $20+, the &quot;10 speed&quot; chains are around $30-80, and the sure to be next 11, 12, 13 speed chains are italian top shelf stuff and $$$$$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5500" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T02:51:59.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2012-11-13T10:56:37.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your list looks pretty good and I'm in Ottawa as well.  Would you prefer something with derailer, hub geared, or single speed?  The ultimate frame for a winter ride would be titanium because it won't rust or more importantly, corrode from salt.  But that will cost you 800-900+.  That being said I'd agreed the aluminum is likely the best overall price/performance balance.  Titanium is only cool if you have a proletariat's privilege.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Ottawa winter bike build so far is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aluminum hybrid mtb frame sized for 700c (paid 20 bucks used)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rigid cyclocross fork for 700c disc ready, but has bosses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lasco 46T Crank &quot;used&quot; but really new for 30 bucks from a local shop (I think it's steel alloy so should rust and need replacing in years to come)  Will go aluminum next.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single speed aluminum cog and spacers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain tensioner to accommodate vertical dropouts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20c wheelset with freehub and sealed bearings on order&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30c wide mud/slush slinging cyclocross tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Linear brakes with wet condition pads due to lower cost than disc, plus familiarity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Studded spare wheel ready for the odd extreme ice days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike should run me 300-350 once all is done and well under 20 lbs, likely 17 or so.  I'll be going with linear brakes like Avid 5s with special pads this winter due to cost, familiarity and maybe adventure of squirreling around with some skill.  I'd like to go disc, but I'm on a Canadian peasant budget.  I might go disc on the rear if I find a cheap set...this would be ideal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For warmth,  I'm planning on dressing for skiing, so fleece face bandana, ski goggles, have 2 layer bike gloves, tuque and ski jacket with hood and waterPROOF pants above fleece pants.  I'll be using my rear pannier bags to store my change of clothes and add a little weight traction to the rear.  Jacket and pants both have venting, which helps the hot body core, as skiing and cycling have taught me can be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5502" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T13:34:57.813" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T13:34:57.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13195" CreationDate="2012-11-13T11:21:50.370" Score="7" ViewCount="2236" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I compare gear ratios on different wheel sizes? How can I compare gear ratios on MTB with tracking bikes with bigger wheels? How can I compare gear ratios with gear hubs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4629" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T12:12:19.423" Title="Comparing gear ratios on different bike types" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11060" CreationDate="2012-11-13T11:32:53.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The majority of department store (&quot;mtb&quot;) bikes uses 1&quot; quill stems, have bolt on wheels instead of quick releases, has a free-wheel instead of a cassette, typically has a one piece crank w/plastic pedals, a chain guard on the front sprocket, seat post diameter has a continuity of being 27.2, usually never has a spot to put a normal bottle cage on the frame due to the extravagant shape with equally extravagant graphics/decals, and lastly on the &quot;dual&quot; suspensions they are all equipped with a summer shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5503" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T11:32:53.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2012-11-13T12:04:46.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would actually recommend a cyclocross or touring frame. In my experience, skinnier tires cut through snow a bit better and you end up with a tire that's actually touching the pavement instead of riding on top of a layer of snow. With a cyclocross or touring frame, you'll have enough clearance for cyclocross tires with a little bit of lug to them (you don't want regular slicks), fenders, racks, and whatever else you want to do. You can also set it up with either drop bars or risers, just make sure to get the appropriate brake setup for whichever bar you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cyclocross frame would solve your disc brake problem too. Disc brakes are becoming standard on cyclocross bikes. You see them on touring frames too, but not as often. As I understand it, they make it harder to mount racks but I don't have any hands-on experience with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T12:04:46.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13191" CreationDate="2012-11-13T12:16:43.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you consider the crankarm length (which usually is NOT done for the sake of simplicity), you have one (or two, in the case of gear hubs) &quot;multipliers&quot; to get the ratio of speed (and torque) between the crank and the wheel, and one final conversion between angular speed and forward speed. That would either allow you to calculate forward speed for a given RPM, which is one of the best parameters to judge how a given gears &quot;feels&quot; on any bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you have to calculate the gear ratio between chainring and cog. As an example from one of my bikes, if you have a 46t chainring and a 16t cog, dividing 46 by 16 gives you 2.875 which is a first multiplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, if I am in the 6th gear of my hub, the table from the manufacturer says it gives me a 0.528 REDUCTION ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for every crank turn I have 2.875 times 0.528 = 1.518 wheel turns. If I know that my wheel has a circumference of 2.115 meters, then for each crank turn I'll go 3.21 meters forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if I take any other similar sized and similar weight bike and ride any other combination which gives me 3.21 meters per crank revolution, these gears most probably will feel very similar, and both bikes could be ridden side by side with the same cadence, even if one bike had a 20 inch wheel (that would mean the gear and hub ratio would have to be higher to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it is possible to calculate wheel circumference from wheel radius (radius * 2 * PI), the best way is to measure - with a tape - the actual distance travelled by the bike as you push it forward until the tire gives a whole turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T12:16:43.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13191" CreationDate="2012-11-13T12:17:53.473" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically you quote gear sizes in &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot;&gt;gear inches&lt;/a&gt;, very basically this is the drive wheel diameter multiplied by the ratio between the two gear cogs, traditionally quoted in inches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also sometimes mentioned is &lt;em&gt;development&lt;/em&gt; which is the amount of distance travelled by one revolution of the cranks (the astute will notice that is going to be proportional to gear inches and possibly a more meaningful quantity).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more complex alternative, but one which is an absolute number, rather than measured in distance is Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gain.html&quot;&gt;gain ratio&lt;/a&gt;  which tries to include the crank length in the equation to get some sort of appreciation for the extra work for the smaller cranks found on, e.g., road bikes in comparison to ATBs. So for every unit travelled by the pedal on its circular journey, the bike will travel &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; units along the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hubs will still have an absolute number of sprockets, even if it is just an equivalence to a real cog so can still contribute to these equations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T12:17:53.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13191" CreationDate="2012-11-13T12:18:29.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard scheme is to convert gear ratio into &quot;gear inches&quot; (or, I suppose, in Europe &quot;gear centimeters&quot;).  This goes back to the old &quot;penny-farthing&quot; bikes where to get a larger &quot;gear ratio&quot; you'd get a bike with a larger front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Gear inches&quot; is the diameter of a &quot;direct drive&quot; wheel that will travel, in one turn of the pedals, the same distance that a geared bike in a given gear will travel in one turn of the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You first calculate gear ratio, which is the number of front teeth divided by the number of rear teeth, then multiply that by wheel diameter.  (Look up actual tire diameter on Sheldon Brown's web site, since rim &quot;diameter&quot; doesn't really measure anything.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Or there are no doubt several web sites that will do all this for you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate gear inches for an internal geared hub you'd start with the fact that the vast majority of such hubs have their &quot;fastest&quot; gear be a &quot;lock-up&quot; where the wheel turns once for each turn of the sprocket.  Then you calculate gear inches for that.  If you then have the ratios of the other gears you can multiply/divide (as appropriate for the presentation of the ratios) to get gear inches for the other gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T12:12:19.423" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T12:12:19.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2012-11-13T13:44:25.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Ottawa as well, seems as though there are a few of us here. My best recommendation after riding until end of December last year when the snow came is to get a bike that you don't care if it gets rusted out.  With all the salt they put down here, the drive train is going to get destroyed and you will probably want to have a new drive train (or many new parts) each winter.  My freewheel cassette no longer freewheels after riding it until last December (was planning on a new bike anyway).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are in a particularly hilly section of the city (there aren't many) I would probably go with a single speed or fixed gear as there's just less parts to replace next time around. I got a cheap fixie off Kijiji that I plan to use until the snow comes.  There's another cyclist around my office complex who rode all winter last year and he has single speed as well.  The frames seem to hold up well enough either with aluminium or steel, but the drive train and any kind of bolts seem to undergo a terrible amount of corrosion.  You might want to cover all the bolts in a layer of grease.  It will make working on it a little messier, but will protect them from the elements a lot more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T13:44:25.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13200" CreationDate="2012-11-13T15:11:40.053" Score="5" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning in braving the harsh Canadian winter for my daily work commutes via bike. I currently have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/JacketsVests/PRD~5017-604/mec-supermicroft-cycling-jacket-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; nylon jacket, I was wondering if this would be adequate protection? Possibly with an additional layer or two underneath. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also how would drywick cycling pants fair? Is breathability a bad thing in winter temperatures? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5504" LastEditorUserId="634" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T14:07:21.127" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T14:07:21.127" Title="Canadian Winter Cycling Apparel" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13199" CreationDate="2012-11-13T15:38:53.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/MemberPicks/Cycling/PRD~5021-691/mec-roubaix-tights-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MEC Roubaix Tights&lt;/a&gt; down to about -15 and they work quite well.  The fronts and backs are different material, so they block the wind, while still allowing your legs to dissipate some of the heat.  They aren't so great in the wet, because the backs aren't waterproof, but once the temperature drops below zero, that usually doesn't matter. Although if you have fenders, you might not have to worry at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That jacket looks good. You probably want to wear another layer or 2 or 3 underneath. I find that it's all about using lots of layers.  Lots of thin layers can keep you warm, while still allowing for a lot of mobility.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T15:38:53.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2012-11-13T17:48:46.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know whether this was intended, but all mentioned only passive systems to keep your feet warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going like 25 kms one way, I use electrical soles and for longer trips, heating pads that generate heat from a carbon-metal powder. If you do not exert pressure, another active system are heating pads filled with some acetic acid(?). Obviously, you should not use these between your feet and the pedals. Here, a phase transition from liquid to solid generates heat. You can reuse those by reheating in a water bath until the solid becomes liquid again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, all of these measures are improved by good insulation.&#xA;I've never had peripheral vision problems with good skiing googles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tip that works for me is to do everything to be able to go fast and become warm from the exercise, e.g. using spike tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T17:48:46.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2012-11-13T19:09:16.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it gets really cold (or it is cold AND wet) I wear a pair of neoprene socks designed to keep kayaker's feet warm.  I wear these over a pair of thin wool or acrylic socks, UNDER my shoes.  I am primarily a mountain biker, and this seems much more reliable to me than the shoe covers that slip over, because of the chance of tearing the cover on something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the socks I have are something like these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/722203/nrs-hydroskin-socks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/722203/nrs-hydroskin-socks&lt;/a&gt;.  There are thicker models available but I prefer wearing the thin ones over the wool because it allows me to wear the neoprene ones many times before they need a wash.  The coldest I've ridden with this combination was probably about 20 degrees with a few inches of snow on the ground and a couple of stream crossings, and while my shoes were soaked my feet felt great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T19:09:16.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13212" CreationDate="2012-11-13T19:28:08.773" Score="1" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Garmin Edge 500 with hear rate monitor, which I use while riding. Now I have all this hear rate data which I don't know how to apply. Can anyone point out how I should use this data for training, with the intention of racing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4723" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T04:15:24.757" Title="Effective use of heart rate monitor" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13215" CreationDate="2012-11-13T21:42:15.870" Score="3" ViewCount="2320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting a repetitive grinding sound/slight vibration while fully mashing on my Kona-humu single speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Description of Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This grinding is more similar to what you would hear from an un-greased chain (maybe clicking is a better term) but much loader. This noise/vibration is also accompanied by a slight resistance. It only occurs during hard pedaling and only during right hand crank input. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attempted diagnosis&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Since the issue only occurs during hard pedaling I've had a difficult time coming up with reasonable ways to diagnose. After the first 5-10 cycles I am spinning fast enough I cannot provide the needed input to reproduce the noise/vibration. I have tried to use brakes and building to hold me up right and put lots of pressure on the drive train to flex the frame and see where there may be rubbing. This has not produced much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Issues&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain line - I'm thinking it could be a chain line issue when the frame is torqued. Eyeballing is the chain line looks good to me without a load on the drive train, and it was recently inspected while installing a new BB at the LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front chain ring - If the chain line is off the issue maybe from the added friction of the chain &quot;popping&quot; as it engages and disengages the chain ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear cog - Same issue as the Front chain ring but happening on the rear cog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front chain ring guard - While recently installing a new BB the LBS noted the extremely tight clearance on the chain ring guard. Doing my best to diagnose as I ride I couldn't see an obvious collision with the chain ring guard, but it's hard to tell for sure while moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame - I'm fairly certain there is just too much clearance in all directions for this to be an issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something else - Maybe there is an additional issue I'm not aware of?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rear tire rubbing on frame - The wheel is fairly centered in the frame with about a half inch on either side and again I don't see this happening while riding. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something else altogether?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T17:24:43.153" Title="What is causing noise/vibration high power input on right hand (drive side) crank?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13203" CreationDate="2012-11-13T23:22:41.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Google/books (&quot;Total Heart Rate Training&quot; by Joel Friel is a worthwhile read, IMO) have an Active Metabolic Rate test, VO2Max test, or something similar performed at a sports lab to measure exactly where your zones are. Don't waste time with &quot;214-(age*0.8)&quot; or other faith-based calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T01:28:26.550" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T01:28:26.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13204" CreationDate="2012-11-13T23:59:16.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've occasionally had this when the drive side axle was slipping in the drop out. When enough torque was applied to the pedals the axle moved just enough that the front of the tyre was rubbing on the inside of the left chain stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could check the paint there and see if there is any evidence of rubbing. If this is the problem, a chain tug would solve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how close are your brakes to the rims? Maybe a bit of flex is enough to cause the brake to rub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T23:59:16.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2012-11-14T00:59:33.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;panniers with lots of winter clothing (to keep you warm in case if you would have to repair a  flat tube), windbreaker etc &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare flashlight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update: according to freiheit, I did not provide enough reasons, so here they are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) winter could be a very cold season - take extra clothing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) during winter months the daylight time is shorter than in summer -&gt; take extra flashlight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3320" LastEditorUserId="3320" LastEditDate="2012-12-28T23:23:27.157" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T23:23:27.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-14T01:08:37.280" Score="4" ViewCount="10030" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a Tacx Flow trainer, this being the first time using a power meter. For about 10 years, however, I have been doing monthly &quot;uphill time trials,&quot; whereby I put the time into that formula which, supposedly, determines your power. (Mass X height of climb, divided by time (seconds) = Newton meters X 10 = watts.) For that, I've been averaging about 300 - 330 watts for around 13 - 14 minutes. Yet, on the Tacx, I've done just an 8 minute effort (for determining CTS training zones), and can only manage 250 watts. I realize neither of these is going to be as accurate as a PowerTap or SRM, but that seems to be an awfully large discrepancy, especially considering how its the shorter effort is so much lower. I know fatigue starts setting in, but on the Tacx, it seems like the resistance is gradually increasing, or some thing. Or, is it possible something isn't set up right? (Yes, I did put my body weight in.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5506" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T22:29:57.693" Title="How accurate are indoor trainer power meters?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13203" CreationDate="2012-11-14T01:40:51.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed, heart-rate alone is not enough to organize a comprehensive training program, and some preliminary steps (fitness tests, mostly) are necessary so that you can properly train guided by heart rate zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main idea is the following: heart rate is one of the best measures of your physical effort. Each person have an individual maximum heart rate, depending on a lot of factors, mostly age. When you know your maximum rate, then it is possible to calculate the HEART RATE ZONES, as percent ranges of that maximum, which are directly related to training levels. Below a given zone there is no training, inside a given zone you keep the conditioning you already have, above a given zone you are improving your aerobic level, and so on. This can also be used to actively rest during an interval training, when you apply the next effort cycle only after some time below some threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this talk applies specifically for TRAINING. If you ride only for fun, then you can use the heart rate just to compare efforts, more &quot;informally&quot; speaking. For example, if you ride the same route at the same speed many times, you can look for the higher heart rates and know during which rides you were more tired. Also, there are some ways to measure POWER with GPS devices (STRAVA does so if you provide your weight and the bike's weight). When you relate power and heart rate, you can obtain a measure of your fitness and/or efficiency at a given stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this flood of data nowadays, the possibilities are almost endless!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T01:40:51.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13208" CreationDate="2012-11-14T03:30:44.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that my 8 minute TT outdoor tests always result in a higher wattage average. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even comparing PowerTap to SRM will result in some differences, but if the trainer gives you repeatable wattage's (as well as always pumping the tire to same psi and set same resistance of trainer to your tire), then you can do your indoor training based on those numbers and use your outdoor numbers for outdoor training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the Tacx Flow on the beta list of compatible trainers for training via virtual power on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trainerroad.com/virtual-power&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trainer Road&lt;/a&gt; website (which means it has a published power curve), so I suspect that the trainer does produce repeatable power resistance and wattage's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T03:30:44.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2012-11-14T03:46:37.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest a cyclocross (CX) frame over a mountain bike.  CX frames have wider stays to take wider tires, and most have fender/pannier mounts.  A CX frame can be lighter than a mountain frame, and most are made to be packed on the shoulder if necessary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes on CX frames are a lot more common now - mechanical for the most part, more hydraulic options within a year or so (and frames are typically setup to handle either).  Road forks are unsuspended, and it's easy to find disc forks -- chromoly are available, cheap, and heavy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If corrosion is a big concern, titanium makes the ultimate winter bike.  No corrosion concerns, strong as steel and comparable weight aluminum (if not better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see an issue with lights -- most seem to use o-rings to attach, so they can be taken off easily if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T03:46:37.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13203" CreationDate="2012-11-14T04:15:24.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend Friel's book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, to train with a HRM, you need to set up your zones. There are three ways of doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Based on an estimated maximum heart rate. This is better than nothing, but not by a lot, as it is an average. If you have a big heart, this may result in zones that are too high, while if you have a small heart, it may result in zones that are too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Based on a measured maximum. This is better than an estimated maximum, but isn't great because zones are better set using your anaerobic threshold, which changes based on your fitness level. As you get better trained, you want your zones to move up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Based on a test, generally a field test that you perform on your bike. IIRC, Carmichael uses two 3-mile time trial efforts, while Friel uses one 20-minute effort. Both give decent numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend the field test approach since you are just getting started. If you get serious, you may want to switch to using a power meter, which is better than using a HRM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T04:15:24.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13139" CreationDate="2012-11-14T04:24:38.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the tubes you're using have removable valve cores, you can put some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/Sealant-C14.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stan's&lt;/a&gt; or equivalent in the tubes. Some tubes (Continental is one brand) have removable Presta valve cores. Alternatively, you can buy tubes that come pre-filled with sealant. I'm not a huge fan of Bontrager products, but I've used their &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/00910&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sealant-filled tubes&lt;/a&gt; around Southern CA, where we have goat-head thorns among other things, and they work well for small punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T04:24:38.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2012-11-14T15:11:47.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What else would you think about when building a bike for the winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got flat tires twice, when commuting in summer (on the bike's original 700x32 tires). I changed the tires to Marathon Plus, and haven't had another flat since. Getting a flat tire wasn't a big deal for me because I was cycling near public transport routes; but especially if you're &quot;in both urban and more rural areas&quot;, consider getting tires that you can really depend on: the tires seemed to me to be the least reliable part of my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T15:11:47.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13204" CreationDate="2012-11-14T17:24:43.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did this sound start when you took the biek to the LBS? What else did the LBS touch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See if you can take the chain guard off temporarily to see if the sound goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your description also sounds a lot like a BB that the shop overtightened or under tightened. If you have a torque wrench you could investigate this yourself, otherwise I would take it back to the mechanic that installed that BB and ask for a double check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T17:24:43.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13134" CreationDate="2012-11-14T17:27:36.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't already have something in mind, first find a shifter you like, and it should be easy to go from there because whoever you buy the shifter from should be able to tell you which derailleur is going to work with it. Or vice versa, start with the derailleur and then there will be a specific set of compatible shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T17:27:36.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13118" CreationDate="2012-11-14T17:45:00.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think illuminating the sides of a headlight is a good idea. I use a Smart Polaris 220907 which has illuminated sides with my road bike an have made good experiences with it. When riding at night or dawn I always get seen early and well. For riding in really dark areas the light might not be enough, but for my use in an urban area with street lightning it is a fine position light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qCVUF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Smart 220907&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4107" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T17:45:00.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7124" CreationDate="2012-11-14T18:22:18.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you not use a thread less BB like this? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/prestine-threadless-68mm-sealed-bearing-bottom-bracket-for-frames-with-damaged-threads-prod16505/?src=froogle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/prestine-threadless-68mm-sealed-bearing-bottom-bracket-for-frames-with-damaged-threads-prod16505/?src=froogle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5512" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T18:22:18.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13225" CreationDate="2012-11-14T19:03:51.667" Score="0" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time for a replacement chain, and i have a sram 971 sitting around, don't want to spend the money on a new chain, if i can get away with using a mountain bike chain. Hopefully it won't pop off with standard tension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5392" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T00:35:15.283" Title="Can i use a thinner standard mtb chain (SRAM 971) or does the chain need to be specific (SRAM PC-1) for coaster brake single speed" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13222" CreationDate="2012-11-14T19:13:22.513" Score="1" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;ORI M9 and Mezzo D9 seem to have the same frame design. Does anyone know the dimension of these bikes when folded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5472" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T19:36:27.590" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T19:49:08.780" Title="What is the size when folded of the ORI M9 or Mezzo D9?" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13208" CreationDate="2012-11-14T19:15:05.450" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will presume you are asking about the types of trainers that one mounts one's own bike onto, and not a dedicated &quot;bike&quot; trainer such as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monarkexercise.se/default.asp?PageID=673&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monark ergometer&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleops.com/en/products/indoor-cycles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CycleOps Indoor Cycle&lt;/a&gt; (ergometers such as these are used in exercise physiology laboratories and can be calibrated to be very accurate). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consistency and Accuracy of Speed Measurement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accurate power measurement in most indoor trainers depends on accuracy in speed measurement. A full description of the relevant factors is long and complex. The short answer is that some indoor trainers are more consistent and accurate than others, and we can group them into rough categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, accurate power measurement from an indoor trainer depends on a consistent load response with respect to speed. Thus, your question is equivalent to asking, &quot;how consistent is recorded speed for a given power input?&quot; If that relationship is consistent then you can simply put a speedometer on a trainer and convert the observed speed to power. A handful of modern software applications (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trainerroad.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trainerroad&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://goldencheetah.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Golden Cheetah&lt;/a&gt;) do essentially this: one mounts an ANT+ speed sensor on the bike and, if the trainer is consistent in its response, the application converts that speed into power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed-power relationship will depend on tire pressure, the tire-to-roller contact pressure, the ambient temperature, and the type of resistance unit used by the trainer to generate the load. For example, common types of load generators include wind fans, magnetic resistance units, fluid resistance units, and electric load generators; rollers use frictional resistance generated by tire deformation, belt losses, and (a very small amount of) aerodynamic drag generated by the spinning rear and front wheels. Wind-turbine fans tend to be quite consistent as long as the tire-to-roller contact patch is consistent and air density is constant. The relatively new Lemond Revolution Trainer uses a large fan directly driven via its own cassette so does not rely on a tire-to-roller interface and independent tests have shown that its speed-power response can be both precise and accurate. Some discussion of how the tests were performed and the drag parameters were estimated are &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.slowtwitch.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?post=3178482#3178482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. As an aside, wind turbine trainers tend to be quite noisy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the load generation on a set of rollers is mostly determined by rolling resistance it, too, can be quite consistent. Measurements with a calibrated Power Tap show that if tires, tubes, air pressure, number of wheel spokes, and total mass are known, rollers are extremely consistent: consistent enough that high precision estimates of rolling resistance can be made using this setup. For example, the differences in the rolling resistance of tires and tubes described at biketechreview.com were measured using rollers and a calibrated power meter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consistency of magnetic and fluid load generators tends to degrade with temperature. Some fluid generators use more temperature-stable fluids, and thus tend to be more consistent than magnetic load generators -- however, one fairly well-known brand of fluid generator trainers has a distinct &quot;temperature threshold&quot; through which it passes so the resistance is quite step-like. The consistency of both magnetic and fluid trainers can be improved if one can maintain their load units at a steady equilibrium temperature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among the trainers with electrically-based load generators, the Computrainer, the Velodyne, and the Velotron are reportedly consistent and can be calibrated to be accurate against a known accurate power meter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Tacx Flow&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the Flow is not particularly accurate although in certain modes it can be consistently inaccurate. In other modes it is inconsistently inaccurate. However, in all test modes I've used, the Flow overestimates rather than underestimates power compared to a Power Tap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To demonstrate consistency of the Tacx Flow, I collected the data below with the same tires, same tubes, same bike, and same rolldown calibration number (of zero). The black and red dots were collected four months apart in time, for four different &quot;slope factors&quot; and demonstrate that over that period the speed-reported power of the Flow was consistent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rxj1m.png&quot; alt=&quot;consistency of the Flow over four months for four different slope factors&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while consistent, the Flow was inaccurate. There was no combination of calibration number, scale factor, and slope that I could find that would produce accurate power estimates across the range of speeds tested (accurate compared to a known-accurate Power Tap). Since I had the Power Tap, I quickly gave up trying to find the &quot;right&quot; parameters. However, over a &quot;moderate&quot; range between 200 and 300 watts, a scale factor of 85 and a rolldown calibration number of 4 came close -- above and below that range, the Flow grew worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was for the Flow in &quot;trainer&quot; or &quot;slope&quot; mode. In &quot;ergo&quot; mode, where the Flow is supposed to adjust the load in order to keep power constant even if the rider changes speed and cadence, its performance was abysmal. In the plot below, three different scale factors were tested for a set ergo power level and varying wheel speed. If the Flow had been able to adjust the load to keep power constant at varying speed, power (as measured by an accurate Power Tap) would be independent of speed and each group of dots would be horizontal. As can be seen, they are not. This demonstrates that in ergo mode, the Flow's load generator is easily overmatched at high and low wheel speed. It is thus wise not to rely on the Flow's ergo mode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/05M0o.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T22:29:57.693" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T22:29:57.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13220" CreationDate="2012-11-14T19:49:08.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/folding/product/review-mezzo-bikes-d9-10551&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; states the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;While the D9 doesn't fold quite as small as a Brompton (690x685x360mm to the Brompton's 550x580x280mm)&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Mezzo D9 folds down to 690 x 685 x 360 mm. Which equates to 27.17 x 26.97 x 14.17 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T19:49:08.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="513" CreationDate="2012-11-14T23:01:19.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the Di Blasi folding tricycles.  I don't have any experience with them but their fold look as cool as the Brompton fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diblasi.co.uk/Folding_Tricycles.asp?Prd=Tricycles&amp;amp;Pag=Gruppo&amp;amp;Lng=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.diblasi.co.uk/Folding_Tricycles.asp?Prd=Tricycles&amp;amp;Pag=Gruppo&amp;amp;Lng=en&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5513" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T23:01:19.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4010" CreationDate="2012-11-15T00:19:52.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't stress this enough:  I have a Tern (offshoot of dahon) and my gf has owned an older citizen and a newer citizen cuz one got stolen. I take the train to work and carry my bike on with me and ride the rest of the way.  Although citizen has excellent customer service, you definitely get what you pay for. The derailleur is total crap, the gearing is terrible except for the slightest hills and the fold is so sloppy, you'd be better off with a non foldie.  Dahons/terns come with quality components, fold smoothly, quickly, an stay folded and my god are they lighter which is a huge deal.  Plus, Terns hinges are super beefy and easy to use.  Check out the Link D8 and I swear it'll fit ur every basic need from hauling gear, weekend cruises, and long 30 mile treks.   Tires, brakes, gears, the Tern has it all.  BUT if u absolutely have to only spend 200, the citizen is by far the better choice.  Get the luggage rack and fenders.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5514" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T00:19:52.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13219" CreationDate="2012-11-15T00:35:15.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your cog is probably 1/8&quot; like that PC-1 chain, so that 3/32&quot; chain isn't going to work. Let's say you could even get it to fit in the first place, it would probably pop off at the least convenient moment, like when you're trying to stop with that coaster brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T00:35:15.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13157" CreationDate="2012-11-15T08:05:05.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use an iOS device, I use an app called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aeroweather.ch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aero Weather&lt;/a&gt; (there is a free version, but I liked it enough to show support for the developer and paid for the Pro version). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows the various feeds available from many airports, runways, aerodromes and other similar sites. You can show the summary of 4-5 airports on an iPhone screen - more than enough to get a quick overview of local conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shows current readings, but you're able to drill in to their forecasts. As others have said, the airport analyses tend to be written by experts so is credible, but the readings are also frequently updated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my commute/training rides, I have a local list of various airports within 20-30 miles of home so I can get an instant picture of how the wind/temperature/cloud and so on is differing in the various directions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T08:05:05.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13191" CreationDate="2012-11-15T08:42:41.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst this doesn't expand further on the answers already given another site probably worth noting as it covers all of your examples with addition of direct comparisons, it's also very easy to understand is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gear-calculator.com/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gear-calculator.com/#&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3271" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T08:42:41.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1487" CreationDate="2012-11-15T09:07:50.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a bit of a tangent, but have you considered a &lt;a href=&quot;http://news.yahoo.com/cardboard-bicycle-change-world-says-israeli-inventor-090732689.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cardboard bicycle&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would only meet one of your requirements - a low environmental cost. It certainly wouldn't last 100 years, but might have less environmental impact over 100 years even if replaced several times as it's certainly easy to recycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is if it's as great as the inventor claims.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T09:07:50.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13232" CreationDate="2012-11-15T13:52:53.777" Score="0" ViewCount="1207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano Altus 8-speed on my hybrid/commuter bike. I have to put in a new cassette and a new chain as well and looking at the teeth of the largest chainring cog in the front, it looks like the teeth are pretty worn as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected the chainrings to be replaceable individually but was puzzled to see that they are one solid unit. It kind of looks like a chainset but the pedal part seems so be attached by a screw and does not appear to be part of the chainring-set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest cog has 48 teeth and has 4 extra holes to attach a chain protector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the name of the part and a supplier in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be advisable to invest in a chainset where I can replace individual cogs? What would be a possible part combination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UBzCF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5516" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T18:26:13.313" Title="Shimano Chainring Set" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13344" CreationDate="2012-11-15T14:41:30.820" Score="1" ViewCount="1260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have searched and cannot find the diameter of the seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to get their Miami or Gotham model, but I know I'll need a seat extension as a 6'2&quot; rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dahon and others make longer seat posts, but I need to know the diameter in order to ensure a fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know the Citizen seat post diameter? Is it 33.9 like the Dahons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5519" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T01:45:15.367" Title="What is the diameter of the seat post on Citizen folding bikes?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10140" CreationDate="2012-11-15T17:55:13.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest checking out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://allcitycycles.com/bikes/space_horse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Space Horse&lt;/a&gt;.  I have one and am very pleased with it.  Most recent version comes with a compact 10 cassette, is a very smooth ride, and quite comfortable.  I've taken it off road onto the gravel rails to trails we have around here and the next day loaded it up for a 15 mile commute to work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solid as a tank.  Comfortable.  Versatile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5520" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T13:10:59.180" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T13:10:59.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13229" CreationDate="2012-11-15T18:26:13.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While cleaning I found the part number printed on the inside of a crank handle. It is a FC-M191. This part seems not to be available in the UK anymore so I decided to buy the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/shimano-fc-m411-item138513.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MC-M411&lt;/a&gt;, which has the same teeth number for all three cogs, is suitable for 8-speeds and has the same Shimano rectangular axle fitting as the FC-M191.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also bought a Tl-FC10 crank pull to disconnect the cranks from the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the derailleur is an Altus but other parts have been used for the Chainset in the front. This makes it difficult to find the matching parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5516" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T18:26:13.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13135" CreationDate="2012-11-15T20:16:31.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&#xA;I made the mistake of buying a nice looking 8 speed SRAM derailleur, to find that my Shimano 8 speed gear shifters, were incompatible. ie One click of the shifter didn't move the derailleur the correct distance to change one gear on the rear 8 speed cassette&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4152" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T20:16:31.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13235" CreationDate="2012-11-15T23:10:34.423" Score="2" ViewCount="3783" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have already read &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/6452/5006&quot;&gt;My crank fell off, how do I re-attach it?&lt;/a&gt;, but it did not answer my question.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was biking up a hill in first gear, and I felt my left crank was a bit loose. Never having had problems with my crank before, I kept going. Sure enough, the left crank fell off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears there is a square hole in the crank which the axle goes through (which is also square). This is held on by a hex bolt about half an inch long. The bolt says &quot;CH 12.9&quot; on the head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qYzQb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a picture of the crank where it attaches to the axle. Note the threads. There is supposed to be a circular piece that goes into them and holds in the bolt. Unfortunately, it must have fallen out before the crank fell off and is probably in a ditch who knows where now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yS5fB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I believe damage has also been done to the crank. I'm not sure if you can tell from this image, but there are dents in the hole, probably from the axle. I have tried to put the crank back on the axle, but I find it incredibly difficult. I decided against a hammer with a wood block because I'm not sure if that'll make it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOCMl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's my problem. Here's my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this repairable? If so, how do I go about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T23:51:29.120" Title="How do I re-attach a crank that has fallen off?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13234" CreationDate="2012-11-15T23:51:29.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, got to a bike shop and get a new crank bolt.  They're a fairly standard item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't tell for sure if your bike had &quot;self removing&quot; bolts or standard ones, but it doesn't matter that much, a standard style should fit.  The large threads in the crank arm are for holding a removable trim plug over the bolt (or holding the &quot;self-removing&quot; part of a self-removing bolt) and for facilitating a crank remover (which is kind of not needed at this juncture).  You can ask for a new trim plug at your LBS, but it's not really needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the bolt, you can &lt;em&gt;try&lt;/em&gt; reattaching the existing crank arm.  It will need to be &lt;em&gt;really tight&lt;/em&gt; -- look up the torque specs on the web if you have a torque wrench, otherwise just get the bolt damn tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But once a bike has been ridden with a loose crank arm the arm is usually damaged beyond repair -- likely it will keep working itself loose, and will eventually damage the crank axle (if it hasn't already).  So you probably need to replace the arm, and you might as well replace the crank cartridge at the same time, since it's probably cheaper than the new arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(So I'm guessing you've figured out by now that you should &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; ride a bike with a loose crank arm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T23:51:29.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-11-16T00:13:01.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you turn you MTB into a good, road worthy machine? Short answer: Sure, why not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to do any road racing,forget about it, HOWEVER, if having a quick and sturdy bike for commuting, weekend terrorizing, or even the occasional century is what your after, then definitely go for it! I did! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, skinny tires are a must. There are lots to choose from, but I'd stick with 1.5 or even skinnier. Slicks are faster, but flat easier. Tires with kevlar belts are nice, but the belts will slow you down a little bit. The Conti Gatorskins get great reviews but are pretty expensive. In any case, a slick or semi-slick will get you scooting along quite nicely. Your choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat handlebars are nice for a short while, but get old fast. Bar ends are a nice addition and they make a bunch of different types, but I use an old Scott AT2 (I think, maybe an AT4) which is sort of a mountain bike aero kinda thingy. Looks a bit wierd, but works great! Scott doesn't make them anymore, but I see them on Ebay all the time. Any type that will allow you to change hand positions are good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have suspension forks, either dump them or find a way to make them rigid (removing the spring on some forks and putting in a equal length of PVC pipe works). The up and down movement of the forks will rob you of pedal energy. For short hops is doesn't mean much, but on a century at around mile 80, you'll wish you had changed it out. Besides, it's kinda heavy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want, change the freewheel/cassette to road bike gearing. Not very expensive. You won't get the same effect as a road bike, but close enough for not much money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to lighten the bike up by carbon seat post, stems and even a carbon mountain bike fork, but the costs can start to pile up, and when that happens, the fun starts to lessen. I use my budget MTB/Road UAB (Urban Assault Bike) for just about anything and everything. Finishing a century is an especially rewarding experience....seeing the faces of those on $2,500 road bikes when I ride up....priceless!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5521" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T13:06:35.260" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T13:06:35.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14890" CreationDate="2012-11-16T05:58:29.417" Score="1" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming ORI AR18 and ORI CR87 use the same frame design and size. I couldn't find any specs on these bikes about its folded dimension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oribikes.com/ori/upload/download/2012%20Catalogue.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.oribikes.com/ori/upload/download/2012%20Catalogue.pdf&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5472" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T10:36:14.453" Title="What is the folded size of ORI AR18 or ORI CR87?" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5251" CreationDate="2012-11-16T08:53:02.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My old raleigh 10 speed had brake levers which passed inside then across under the tops.  So you could always reach brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you it had gear change on the lower shaft of the main frame so they were never easy to reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T08:53:02.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13244" CreationDate="2012-11-16T09:40:46.010" Score="4" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed a little crack in one of the lugs of my gazelle steel frame. I hav not ridden it since, because I am worried it will break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/NzzS6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here are some pictures.&lt;/a&gt; The lug in question is the one connecting the downtube and the steering tube. And the crack is located at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it is not in class A condition but it would make an allright work horse for errands and such.&#xA;Do you think this crack is critcal? Or will it be ok as long as I am not doing downhill challenges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16qAH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16qAH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5525" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2017-05-08T21:07:54.247" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T21:07:54.247" Title="How bad is this damaged lug" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13242" CreationDate="2012-11-16T10:58:18.767" Score="2" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I was stopped at a traffic light when I felt my bike moving slowly forward. Did not pay really attention, thought there was a slight slope, so hit the brake and voila.&#xA;But it did not stop moving and I realized an idiot in his car was pushing me!!&#xA;I should have gone and yell at the guy but I freaked out: he is enough of a psycho to push a cyclist, who know what he can do...&#xA;So I deflected to the sidewalk to check the bike...&#xA;He was pushing on the rear mudguard and on the rack... the mudguard was bent just behind the crankset so I straightened it and it looked like the bike was fine so hopped on and finished the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only later I noticed that the contact of the mudguard on the tyre while being deformed left a &quot;wound&quot; on the side of the tire.&#xA;Cannot post a picture, sorry, but it looks like the integrity of the side of the tyre was compromised and one can see the fibers inside.&#xA;It does not &quot;leak&quot;, the tube cannot be seen or anything but I hate it...&#xA;Is the tyre fragilized enough to increase significantly puncture risks? could it &quot;explode&quot; and cause a more serious accident?&#xA;Does it need replacing? I hardly think so,... but well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T12:37:00.260" Title="&quot;wound&quot; on the tire side" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13240" CreationDate="2012-11-16T11:45:33.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would probably replace it. most tire walls are not made to withstand a lot of stress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a wheel with quite a wobble in it (maybe 4mm to the side) and kept riding it. this stressed the tire wall constantly until it disolved and the tire blew out quite explosivly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So keeping in mind that tires does not nedd to be that expensive, I would not risk it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5525" LastEditorUserId="5525" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T11:53:07.223" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T11:53:07.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13240" CreationDate="2012-11-16T12:11:19.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would ask myself the question: &quot;Even if it looks like the tyre is ok, do I really want the hassle of the thing blowing 10 miles from home - even if there's only one chance in a hundred - and then having to change the tube, hoping it doesn't re-puncture, all the while freezing your &lt;em&gt;*&lt;/em&gt;* off? And probably in the dark too. And even then, when you get home, having to replace the tyre in any case.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to the price of a new tyre I know what my answer would be. (I should probaby add that tyres in general are more susceptible in thev walls, which would sway me even more.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Congratulations for keeping your cool by the way. Your logic seems totally sound in terms of this guy being a psycho but very often adrenaline wins hands-down over rationality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T12:11:19.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13240" CreationDate="2012-11-16T12:37:00.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If any of the fibers are torn or frayed, you should definitely replace it. Even if they're not, it's still a good idea. Those fibers are what give your tire its strength. If any of them tear, your tube is likely to push through the tire. If this happens, it will pop because the tube is not strong enough to contain the air pressure inside of it without the reinforcement of the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all of that happens and you get a flat, you'll have a hard time repairing it on the road since a new tube will just push through the hole and pop again. You could &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westernbikeworks.com/booting-a-tire-article&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boot it&lt;/a&gt;, but I've never had a whole lot of luck with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's the rear tire, it's not likely to cause a serious accident. But it's always a possible, e.g., if it pops while you're cornering hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T12:37:00.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13239" CreationDate="2012-11-16T13:13:48.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about the crack running from the opening down into the fillet, that doesn't appear to be likely to seriously affect integrity (though I'm sure there are some here who will disagree).  The lug in that area is reenforced by the steering tube, so there's very little stress at that point.  (In fact the crack may have been there since manufacture -- it looks like a touch of braze was placed over the crack at some point.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you do need to be concerned that the crack might propagate over time and turn sideways in the fillet area.  That would threaten integrity.  So you should check the crack regularly to be sure it's not getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before integrity is threatened the crack would have to get significantly worse.  Even then, failure would be unlikely to be catastrophic -- unless you're totally out of it you'd notice the joint flexing before it went entirely, and a bike can remain rideable (though I don't recommend it) even with the downtube entirely separated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T13:13:48.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13262" CreationDate="2012-11-16T14:04:20.923" Score="3" ViewCount="3677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been braking for a bit too long with worn off brake pads on not so new rims so I basically killed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have the stock wheels of an FX Trek 7.2 bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will most probably change them. The thing is, that I would like to use the opportunity to install thinner tires. The current rims would support a range of 28-37mm wide tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels I am looking at support 19-28mm wide tire range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will any of those new wheels fit on my bike without any further replacing? for instance because of the width of the fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about brakes? I will obviously need to tweak them, but will it require more than just a set-up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T03:27:35.973" Title="Any wheel on any fork / frame?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13245" CreationDate="2012-11-16T15:17:53.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When buying new wheels, make sure the spacing matches up. Road wheels typicall use 130mm rear and 100mm front spacing where as most mountain bikes use 135mm rear and 100mm front. Hybrids vary, but it looks like this one has Shimano RM30 hubs which are 135mm spacing like a mountain bike.  However, if you find a 130mm spaced wheel you like, you can add spacers to make it fit the 135mm spacing of your bike if need be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's worth a shot trying out a 700x28c tire on this bike without changing the wheels, which would be much cheaper than switching the wheelset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI, I got my spec information for the wheels from here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.firefoxbikes.com/hybrid_Trek_73FX.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.firefoxbikes.com/hybrid_Trek_73FX.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T15:17:53.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-16T16:43:54.310" Score="1" ViewCount="6765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a new wheel for my bike. I do not know how to tell what the rim size is. My tire size is 700x23c. It is my back wheel. I tried to have it trued which started breaking the rim. Rim finally broke all the way and is unusable now. I have asked local bicycle shops all they want to do is quote price of rim. I know I can find a cheaper wheel online if I knew what to look for. Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5528" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T18:48:30.630" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T18:48:30.630" Title="New wheel for 700x23c tire" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13247" CreationDate="2012-11-16T16:57:02.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fortunately 700c is a standard size that describes most road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards rim size, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T16:57:02.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13750" CreationDate="2012-11-16T19:33:27.877" Score="5" ViewCount="3506" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mother is 60+ years old and 200+ lbs.  She never learned to ride a bicycle, so she rides a Schwinn Town &amp;amp; Country adult tricycle.  She loves it and rides it everyday, 2-5 miles everyday.  The spokes on the rear right wheel keep breaking.  In the past year, since she's had the trike, she must have had 5-10 spokes replaced. The right wheel is also the &quot;Drive&quot; wheel, and the only wheel giving her problems.  Could it be a shoddy wheel? a bad wheel builder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be done to fix this?  Stronger spokes? Replace the whole wheel for a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need help and I'm officially out of ideas...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4691" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T16:28:54.280" Title="Breaking spokes on adult tricycle" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;tricycle&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13249" CreationDate="2012-11-16T20:48:53.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've got spokes that keep breaking, either the wheel was originally built poorly or the wheel just isn't strong enough ( poor quality materials to begin with, etc ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost of having a professional take the time and care to properly re-tension all of the spokes and get the wheel in shape might be prohibitive, and theres a chance it might not solve your problem for good. You may save yourself some time money and effort by just getting a stronger higher quality wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T20:48:53.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13249" CreationDate="2012-11-16T22:19:00.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the pictures on the web, that's a fairly standard 3-cross wheel.  You can try replacing the entire wheel, but the new one may not be any better.  The other option is to have the wheel rebuilt with high-quality spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends a bit on the history of the bike.  If it's fairly old (more than 5 years or so) and the failing spokes in something new then it's likely just age and fatigue (and possibly corrosion from being out in the weather).  In such a case simply replacing the wheel is probably the cheapest option.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the spokes have been failing regularly all along it's likely that the spokes are poor quality and rebuilding the wheel with better spokes would be the better option.,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T22:19:00.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-17T00:35:24.357" Score="9" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of days ago my girlfriend's bicycle broke. The rear wheel was stuck. Tonight I had finally some spare time to have a look. The bearings had failed, so much so that the wheel must have spun for some time piecewise with the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a consequence, if you are picturing this right, the left nuts had tighten as that very hot place, whereas the nuts and cup on the drive side were completely loose (the axle had screwed itself to the left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what caused this. I had replaced the bearings in the past, something I've done many many times with no problems. What I'm asking here is whether this level of damage is normal or the bearings are cheap.&#xA;I mean: the rightmost bearing in the picture can be separated into a smaller (about 3/16) inner ball and an outer 1/4&quot; shell!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first time I used bearings from ebay, and would like to have your opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pP9SR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pP9SR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5278" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-12-17T08:45:16.610" LastActivityDate="2017-12-17T08:45:16.610" Title="Were these bearings defective?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-17T05:25:36.300" Score="0" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can average 21.7mph for a 20 mile time trial (00:55:15), on my 2001 Rockhopper with 1.25&quot; fatboy slicks, no lock out on shock. My bike weighs 25.25 lbs. I'm planning on buying a Cervelo 2012 r3, 16.4 lbs estimated weight. I also plan on dropping 4-6 lbs, so my total weight would be about 14 pounds less. Does anyone have any idea what my average speed would be for a 20 mile time trial in good conditions, 10 mph max wind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5531" LastEditorUserId="634" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T08:49:45.323" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T08:49:45.323" Title="Time trial improvement from new bike" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;racing-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13253" CreationDate="2012-11-17T06:10:21.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to play around with &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecalculator.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Calculator&lt;/a&gt; a little, and you could find a reasonable estimate for your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the new bike purchase, shop around carefully. You're already past what is considered the clearance season for 2012 models at many traditional brick-and-mortar bicycle retailers. Prime time is August/September of each year. That's when many retailers start their clearance sales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T06:10:21.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-17T09:02:44.423" Score="2" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an keen but casual touring cyclist I'm interested in getting a little more competitive and also keeping myself comfortable over longer distances. So I'm considering getting professionally fitted, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3549/bike-fitting-experiences&quot;&gt;from others' experiences&lt;/a&gt; it sounds good. What should I look for in a fitter and where in the UK (preferably the South) can I find a good one? I'm wary of going somewhere that will be mostly focused on selling me new parts or a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, would the measurements be in any way transferable to another bike? I ride a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1999&amp;amp;Brand=Marin&amp;amp;Model=San%20Anselmo&amp;amp;Type=bike#.UKdOYxK9pyA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marin San Alselmo&lt;/a&gt; and a Thorn Tandem, plus I'm considering something properly race-roadie as my N+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I know there are a few sub-questions here and many people won't be able to answer them all, but I'd also be appreciative of partial answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T11:46:36.730" Title="Bike fitting in the UK" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="513" CreationDate="2012-11-17T19:33:05.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Pashley &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pashley.co.uk/products/tri-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Tri-1&quot;&gt;Tri-1&lt;/a&gt; doesn't fold very small, but is transportable by car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5532" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T19:33:05.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13258" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-17T21:09:01.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A century ride is a bicycle ride of at least 100 miles (160.9 km).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wikipedia:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Century_ride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Century Ride&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T01:24:57.693" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T01:24:57.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13259" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-17T21:09:01.380" Score="0" Body="A century ride is a bicycle ride of at least 100 miles (160.9 km).&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T01:25:03.653" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T01:25:03.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-18T02:15:48.237" Score="1" ViewCount="1527" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some time ago, I bought a used Giant full suspension MTB.  The guy cut the original seatpost too short for me, so I needed a new one.  The post was some weird size, either 31 or 31.1 mm.  Closest I could find was a 30.9.  (Isn't that the standard?)  Needless to say this kept on sliding down as I rode.  I stuck a small strip of metal between the post and frame -- yeah, I know you're not supposed to do that! -- but it still slowly creeps down (about 5 mm every couple hours).  I checked eBay and Giant's web site, to no avail.  Anyone know if I can find one somewhere?  Or anyway to fix it?  (Its amazing how hard it is to slide the post up and down with that homemade &quot;shim&quot; in it, and how hard I tighten up the clamp -- surprised it hasn't broke yet -- yet it STILL slides down!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5506" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T03:03:17.080" Title="Anyone make a 31 or 31.1 mm seatpost?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13260" CreationDate="2012-11-18T03:03:17.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to info from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes.html#g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;, Your Giant post is most likely to be 30.8 as this seems to be a common size on with that brand - however you don't give the age and model of the bike, so it could be Giant changed to another size. The conspiracy theorist in me thinks its so they sell a whole new bike when to can't find a matching seat post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also had this problem (With another brand), and beyond trawling ebay and craigs list in the vain hope sellers will put the size on the listing and its accurate, your best bet is to try your luck with your corner LBS (Not the chain-shop who only has this years stock and is shiny and flash) - good chance they have one in back somewhere. Shops that have been around for a while tend to keep boxes of odd ball sized parts such as these, (rather than throw them away) as it's good for business being the &quot;The only guy in town who....&quot; kind of place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T03:03:17.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13245" CreationDate="2012-11-18T03:27:35.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are buying high end wheels, some of them cannot be fitted with brakes at all or can only be fitted with disk brakes. If it's a fairly good quality wheel, make sure it has has been &quot;machined&quot; for brake pads (or just look at the photos, if it's a coloured wheel with a shiny silver strip where the brake pads go then it has probably been machined).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, some wheels are for bikes with only one gear and you won't be able to fit your gears onto them, or perhaps it will not accept as many gears as your bike has. Count the number of sprockets/wheels on your rear wheel and see how many gears can be fitted to the new rear wheel. Definitely avoid &quot;track&quot; or &quot;fixie&quot; or &quot;single speed&quot; wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different frames do have different widths for the rear wheel, but you can usually get spacers to make it fit if the wheel is designed for a narrower frame than your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, be careful what you buy! Good quality wheels are very expensive (you can pay more for one wheel than you paid for the whole bike) and some wheels are not very strong, or have terrible bearings, or are ridiculously heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should consider just buying a new rim, and having a bike shop fit the new rim to your existing hub/spokes. My local bike shop will only charge 50 bucks to do that. If your wheel is in good condition, you might struggle to find one that is the same quality without spending too much money. Trek is able to place huge orders so they get their parts much cheaper than you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting your brakes is no problem. You just loosen the bolt that holds the cable on the calliper, pull it until they are in the right position for the new size rims, then tighten the bolt. Then you have to adjust the angle and position of the pads, since they will also be wrong - again just loosen the bolt holding the pads on, move them into the correct position, then tighten the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brake pads will work better if they are adjusted &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; right, but I think exactly how to brake pads should be positioned is better asked as a separate question (no doubt it has already been answered many times). You don't have to get them perfectly right, but it's worth reading up on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4564" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T03:27:35.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13320" CreationDate="2012-11-18T11:04:53.160" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wickedcycles.co.uk/shimano-bb-es25-bottom-bracket-octalink-68-126-1350-p.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano BB-ES25 bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt; and 45T crankset that was removed from a Giant-CRX City with an eccentric hub (it had Shimano Alfine internal hub gears).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have literally never been used, and the bike they came out of has since been stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm planning a custom fixed gear bike build, and hoping to re-use these parts, since I'm on a shoestring budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What parts do I need to use this BB in a frame that expects a standard sized BB?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, am I correct that, since this is designed for an eccentric hub, I should be able to use any frame for my fixie, instead of being restricted to ones with a horizontal dropout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4564" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T20:10:21.933" Title="How can I use a small Shimano BB on any frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13265" CreationDate="2012-11-18T13:22:22.167" Score="7" ViewCount="9944" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sorry if my technical English is a bit imprecise.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just put on new Shimano CN-HG53 chain. I joined the ends not with regular pin, but with provided reinforced one (like one of those below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJ0xp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the tip (end) of that pin is entirely outside the link now, and I should break it off. But it is so well made, that I cannot do this. With bare hands -- not possible at all. With pliers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LjSJV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I move the pin tip up-down, but entire chain is rotating (even if I grab it with my hand). I could hold still chain with another pliers but I am afraid of damaging the link I would hold with pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what tool is required to break it off, and how to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T07:18:48.467" Title="How to break reinforced Shimano pin?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13264" CreationDate="2012-11-18T16:17:23.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I did it! :-D I took two plates of steel, drilled a little hole in one of them (for the pin), then put the chain between them (pin goes through the hole of course). This served as vice, but because it was not mechanically clamped I could control the force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I used pair of pliers, and without a sweat, pin snapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I used the same chain before, but I used regular pin, after a year it came out of the chain (partially), thus this time I used reinforced one. We'll see how good it is...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2017-12-29T07:18:48.467" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T07:18:48.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13264" CreationDate="2012-11-18T16:23:21.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done it a few times on Shimano nine speed chains (for road bikes and mountain bikes) with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure it's the correct pin?&#xA;Are you sure it's inserted fully?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's correct and fully inserted, then the gap cut into the pin should be fully visible outside the link. Here's how I do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hold the chain in one hand so that a few links are exposed as a small loop. One of these links should hold the newly-inserted pin. The portion of the pin to be removed should be facing towards you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grab the pin with the pliers so that the pin &amp;amp; pliers are perpendicular.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A quick, sharp, opposite direction twist of both wrists should snap the pin. There &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; be resistance, but it will snap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all goes well, the pin will break so that the remaining portion is flush with the outer edge of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T16:23:21.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-18T22:47:05.467" Score="7" ViewCount="169962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a problem a few weeks ago where my tires were flat and needed air every time I took my bike out of the garage. I brought it to the local bike shop, and they replaced my tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This made a difference for a little while, but unfortunately, I seem to be back where I started. I have to fill up the tires before each ride, and then the wheels are flat after just a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is about seven years old, but I like it and this is the only problem it's ever had. Do I need a new bike, or is there something other than a bad tube that could cause this to happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5538" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T06:40:19.020" Title="Why do my tires keep losing air, even after having the tubes replaced?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13267" CreationDate="2012-11-18T23:46:54.330" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not unusual for narrower tires to need pumping up every day or two, but if they really are losing air after &quot;a few minutes&quot; then the tubes have been holed somehow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did anyone check the tires for small pieces of wire, etc, sticking in them?  A tiny piece of wire can puncture a new tube within minutes.  Did anyone check the rims to make sure that the rim strips were intact, and no spoke ends were sticking out?  A missing or miss-positioned rim strip can cause a tube to puncture in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At seven years old your bike is a mere adolescent, and there's no need to replace it on account of this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T23:46:54.330" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13267" CreationDate="2012-11-19T00:50:07.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention the type of bicycle you're referring to, but if you look at your wheels with the tube out and the tires off, you can probably see what the root cause is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycle wheels should have rim tape or a rim strip that protects the tube from the spoke holes in the rim. Of the two approaches, the rim strip is the more modern. The rim strip can be rubber, or plastic, or a slightly stretchable woven material (polyester fabric, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually if you have an undamaged rim strip of the correct size for your wheel, it is highly unlikely that your tube is being punctured by contact with the spoke holes/spoke nipples. It might be cut by the hole where the valve stem goes through the rim, but if so it should be obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you have rim tape, even if it is the correct width, it's possible the rim tape is not adhering to the rim in one or more locations, and could be moving around under the tube, thus exposing the spoke holes, and causing your tubes to pop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leak you describe-- taking a few minutes to become flat-- suggests a small hole, and this is not inconsistent with a tube cut by a spoke hole, but usually such a cut is big enough to let the air out almost immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out, inspect your leaky tube. Remove it from the wheel, and pump a bit of air into it. Where is the hole? If it is on the valve side of the tube-- the portion which comes into contact with rim tape/rim strip/spoke holes-- then this may be your problem. Hold the tube under water, if necessary, to see where bubbles emerge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hole is on the outside of the tube, where the tube is in contact with your tire, you need to check the tire carefully. One might expect the bike shop did this, but you never know. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzqjoFAXA5I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Run your fingers over the inside of the tire&lt;/a&gt;. As the other responder suggested, you can get a small hole from a piece of wire (a &quot;michelin thorn&quot;) that has punctured your tire casing, or a goat-head thorn, or a piece of glass. You need to remove that from the tire casing, or it will puncture every new tube you put in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T00:50:07.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6399" CreationDate="2012-11-19T03:26:06.853" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't think that most of these bike rental places would include a helmet, mostly because most people consider any piece of head gear a personal item not to be shared with others. There is hygiene involved with a those that may have worn the helmet prior to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T03:26:06.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13267" CreationDate="2012-11-19T10:18:20.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as the good advice given by others, sometimes the valve leaks. This should show up on the water test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have this problem on one of my wheels but not on the other. At the moment, I can get away with pumping up once or twice a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T10:18:20.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13267" CreationDate="2012-11-19T13:22:35.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I've read is that if you ever ride on under-inflated or flat tires, doing that can give you a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=pinch+flat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pinch flat&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T13:22:35.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13267" CreationDate="2012-11-19T15:54:20.127" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem, and I found that there was a small piece of glass in the tire that was puncturing every inner tube I put on the bike as soon as I inflated it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't just run your finger inside the tire you will cut your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T15:54:20.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-19T18:31:17.093" Score="1" ViewCount="1232" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good afternoon,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to buy a cool urban bike based on track design: sort like a tuned fuji feather and so forth. I would like it to be light and instead of a single speed, have 3 speeds. I want a simple cool urban bike I can fix myself, but not a fixie or a single speed which is not enough because I like the road too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking all over the place and can't find any bike that suits me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend me one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5542" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T02:28:16.820" Title="I want an cool urban/track bike with 3speeds. Could you recommend me one?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13230" CreationDate="2012-11-20T00:27:02.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Citizen isn't exactly on the forefront of technology, they don't even list an email address on their web site. The specs aren't online anywhere. You're just going to have to call them (800) 682-9579 and have them tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T00:27:02.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13252" CreationDate="2012-11-20T02:05:03.547" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also never seen a bearing ball fail like that.  In Jahaziel's answer to this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4830/when-do-bearings-need-to-be-replaced?rq=1&quot;&gt;When do bearings need to be replaced? &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;he notes that in Honduras where he lives they sometimes could only get cheap Chinese bearings that &quot;used to 'peel off' like an onion&quot;.  Perhaps you got some of those?  See also the response of &quot;Mike&quot; in this thread [1], who had a similar (albeit worse) experience with cheap bearings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good properly tightened bearings should last for many thousands of miles/kms, and usually races tend to show the damage more clearly before the balls do.  I've never actually over-tightened a hub and tried to ride on it to see how it fails when it seizes (and I'm not saying you did that, but it's the only other explanation I can think of other than cheap bearings), but based on both the SKF paper linked above and this paper [2] and this analysis [3] it seems like ball bearings delaminating or fragmenting is not the most common failure mode, because none of them discuss it.  Particularly in [3] you can see that the balls in seized bearings  polished off a contact patch against the race rather than disintegrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-23340.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-23340.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elongo.com/pdfs/BearingFailures990519.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.elongo.com/pdfs/BearingFailures990519.pdf&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[3] &lt;a href=&quot;http://met-tech.com/failure-analysis-of-ball-bearings.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://met-tech.com/failure-analysis-of-ball-bearings.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T02:05:03.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13274" CreationDate="2012-11-20T02:28:16.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know exactly what you mean. I had the same desires and I ended up buying an SE Draft on ebay and fitting a wheel with a 3 speed hub. If you can find a bike shop that are keen on building and customising they might be able to sell you a single speed bike and then fit a 3 speed hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Australian online store, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jellybeanbikes.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jelly Bean bikes&lt;/a&gt; give the option of buying the bike with a 3 speed hub, but they don't ship overseas. You might be able to find a similar store near you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T02:28:16.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2012-11-20T02:34:58.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be particularly careful on &lt;strong&gt;reflective paint&lt;/strong&gt; such as the markings of the pedestrian crosswalk omnipresent on corners/turns. Do not brake on this surface as you are cornering or you will go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5545" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T02:34:58.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13287" CreationDate="2012-11-20T02:48:00.183" Score="14" ViewCount="22628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute about 10 miles a day in Portland, OR.  Needless to say rain is a big part of many of my rides.  My current rain pants leave me almost as sweaty as if I had just ridden without the rain gear.  So I'm looking for pants with a hard shell/ gore-tex/ dwr front and soft shell sides and back.  I figure that this combination has to exist out there and that it would help with my moisture transfer issues.  Who makes my Holy grail of rain gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5371" LastEditorUserId="477" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T14:48:00.783" LastActivityDate="2018-03-30T22:55:19.300" Title="Ideal pants for bicycle commuting the rain" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;rain&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-04-02T20:39:56.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13252" CreationDate="2012-11-20T06:58:40.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want quality graded bearings. Settle for no less than grade 25. Lower number = better/more precise. Skip generic grade 300.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T06:58:40.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13252" CreationDate="2012-11-20T09:00:57.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I have seen this all too many times working as a workshop manager in a performance bike shop, Cheaper wheels and in certain cases some expensive japanese made ones use a cup and cone system which when correctly adjusted and maintained will give the same minimal rolling resistance and smoothness as ceramic catridge bearing wheel sets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately if the wheel is not maintained or correctly adjusted the cones work loose allowing dirt ingress and pitting of the bearings. This in turn if the wheel is continually used will produce the kind of bearing failure that you see in the image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether this has been increased by the bearing quality I can't advise but I would say the only way to truly have a low maintenance wheelset is to move to catridge bearing hubs. My personal favourite are a british company called &quot;hope&quot; but these are performance wheels and therefore you will pay a higher price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5546" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T09:00:57.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13255" CreationDate="2012-11-20T09:14:08.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mountain-trax.com/page/24/bikefitting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mountain Trax&lt;/a&gt;. They have specifically gone down the route of bike fit and spent some time training in the US with the developer of the system. They are one of the best bikes shops in the south and I would class their service before and after sales as the best I have encountered. &#xA;They are based in Barkham, Wokingham and can easily be reach from the M3 or M4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5546" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2012-11-20T14:12:29.070" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T14:12:29.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2012-11-20T15:09:24.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania&lt;/h1&gt; &#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.portauthority.org/paac/RiderServices/BikesonTransit.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Port Authority of Allegheny County&lt;/a&gt; which serves Pittsburgh, PA and surrounding areas has bike racks on all busses and allows bikes on light rail cars and incline rail (funicular).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T15:09:24.933" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-11-20T15:09:24.933" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13267" CreationDate="2012-11-20T18:27:04.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely cause is a poor quality valve, one variant of built-in obsolescence. The idea is you buy good stuff and can take it easy, or you buy cheaply and suffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unable to accept that modern marketing could be so manipulative, I rode on cheaper (department store bought) tyres for many years. No fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since switching to high-quality touring tires a year or so ago, I find they remain rock-hard for months at a time AND I have yet to have a puncture (that includes 4 week's cycling in the thorny Extremadura in Spain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife uses a similar tyre (different brand), and claims to have been cycling on the same tyres for two years without a single puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5552" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T18:27:04.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13280" CreationDate="2012-11-20T19:51:03.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which pants do you have right now? And did you enjoy that downpour yesterday? There wasn't a dry cyclist in the city, breathable pants or not. Some days we're just going to get wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Showers pass is made right here in portland, and I use them on all the nasty days, for me they work great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/821425/showers-pass-roadie-event-bike-rain-pants-mens&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/821425/showers-pass-roadie-event-bike-rain-pants-mens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arc'teryx, even though I can't pronounce their name, make the top of the line holy grail rain gear. I was just looking at these for myself yesterday: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/836409/arcteryx-micon-insulated-pants-mens&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/836409/arcteryx-micon-insulated-pants-mens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T19:51:03.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13280" CreationDate="2012-11-20T20:34:32.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gore-tex and equivalents don't make water disappear -- it has to run off someplace.  I think pants like that would just result in the water running off and soaking the sides and back of the pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 12/18/2012: although someone on Quora just recommended these, which are like rain chaps, somewhat similar to what you're talking about: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rainlegs.com/en/home&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rainlegs.com/en/home&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastEditorUserId="2611" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T18:20:54.707" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T18:20:54.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28749" CreationDate="2012-11-20T20:52:50.193" Score="6" ViewCount="2326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have an &lt;em&gt;older&lt;/em&gt; Dahon Mariner with a Telescope seat post. The third wheel that functions as the &quot;third leg&quot; (when the bike is folded) has broken off. To compensate, could I switch out the telescope seat post with a longer seat post. When the seat is dropped for folding, my intention is that the length of this seat post will resume the function of this third leg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My model does have a hole in the frame's bottom, allowing a long seat post to pass through (and function as a stand). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Thank you for all the comments below. I am still looking to do this and now have the measurements of the current Telescope seat post. They are &lt;strong&gt;34.2mm&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;28.x&lt;/strong&gt; respectively. The bike does have a small plastic shim between the frame and the bottom telescope seat post pole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fOqTH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;It was able to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jMpa4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T00:29:34.307" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T00:29:34.307" Title="Trading out folding bike seat post" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13293" CreationDate="2012-11-20T22:53:54.007" Score="6" ViewCount="2770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of commuter bikes with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_handlebar#Pursuit&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bullhorn handlebars&lt;/a&gt;. When I replace the tape on them, I always have heaps left over, since the bars are much shorter overall than standard drop bars. There's never enough to do both sides of the bar with a single roll though, so I end up throwing out a lot of tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I get tape in a continuous roll, rather than pre-cut sections? I assume workshops would buy their tape in longer lengths, but I can't find any sources for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T08:27:45.230" Title="Can I buy handlebar tape in bulk" Tags="&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13280" CreationDate="2012-11-21T01:32:50.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use cheap water resistant nylon pants, then use Nikwax wash-in waterproofing to make them more waterproof. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are still relatively breathable, and I stay dry beneath. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of cycling rain pants that are completely waterproof, and though they claim to be breathable, they aren't. The nylon pants work just as well and are much more breathable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T01:32:50.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12468" CreationDate="2012-11-21T01:43:19.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend using a strong cleaner or degreaser for cleaning a bicycle. I have also used Simple Green as others have, (mixed to a 10 to 1 ratio) for general cleaning of my bicycle using a soft cloth, rather than using soap and water to clean the bike and a hose to spray the bike off with a gentle spray, as I used to. I spray it on the chain and the derailleur and wipe the dirt and chain lube off, then re-lube the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the bike and chain this way is quick and easy and can be done post ride in about 15 minutes or so. You're then ready for the next ride. You should always read the label of any cleaner you are thinking of using and taking note of any restrictions as far as metal and paint restrictions. Be sure to use the least amount of material mixed with water as possible to do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T01:13:16.900" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T01:13:16.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13290" CreationDate="2012-11-21T02:48:52.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I manage the workshop in one of the busier shops in the world.  There is not, to my knowledge, any way to obtain cork or neoprene bar tape which is not pre-cut to length.  Usually, in my experience, though, one roll is enough to do both sides of a bullhorn bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T03:32:49.073" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T03:32:49.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13300" CreationDate="2012-11-21T11:15:46.647" Score="10" ViewCount="19555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of changing the 9-speed Tiagra rear mech on one of my (road) bikes to something, still Shimano, but 10-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious replacements I'll need are cassette, right-shifter and chain. But I reckon because of the narrower chain I'm also looking at a new chainset and rear derailleur. However I think the front derailleur and left-shifter should be safe (still keeping the front mech the same). Ditto the bb, regardless of whether I need a new chainset&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone actually done this conversion and is able to confirm (or put me right)? &#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decided in the end that going from 9- to 10- was too much to spend all in one go. But I used a service as an excuse to change the cassette (to a 9-speed ultegra) and the chain (dura ace) at quite minimal cost. Can upgrade other parts as and when, although I'm basically looking at Shim's 6500 range here so all quite dated now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T16:52:30.483" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T13:14:00.083" Title="Moving tfrom Shimano 9- to Shimano 10- speed" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13294" CreationDate="2012-11-21T12:18:54.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume two things: 1) Your current setup was is all 9-speed and has never been upgraded from 8-speed, and 2) your shifters are indexed and not friction shifters. If either of those are wrong, it changes things. That said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct about the cassette, right shifter, and chain. You will also need a new rear derailleur. You'll most likely be ok with your current crankset. You'll also probably be able to get by with your current front derailleur but, because of the narrower chain, shifting may not be optimal. And yes, the left shifter and bottom bracket will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T12:18:54.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13280" CreationDate="2012-11-21T12:40:11.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to my experience, the gore-tex promise, i.e. breathable and dry is a myth*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination you are looking for might become available if you're using so-called &quot;rainlegs&quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kurbelix.com/products/Fahrradbekleidung/Rainlegs-Regenschutz-Sportlich-Grau.html?cat=165795&amp;amp;pa_option=871&quot;&gt;http://www.kurbelix.com/products/Fahrradbekleidung/Rainlegs-Regenschutz-Sportlich-Grau.html?cat=165795&amp;amp;pa_option=871&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;in combination with whatever you consider &quot;soft shell sides and back&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) According to my experience from rainy Germany, if you cycle during heavy rain, you always end up being soaked. The only difference you can make by using different gear is the initial source of being soaked, i.e. either (external) rain or (internal) sweat. After another half an hour, these initial conditions become irrelevant... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T12:40:11.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13290" CreationDate="2012-11-21T13:36:23.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With some Googling, I was able to find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepartsplace.com/discount/handlebar-tape-basic-black/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this bulk bar tape&lt;/a&gt;.  However, at $156 for about 10 bars worth, it doesn't seem like you get much of a deal. Plus the site looks really shady.  But if you aren't wasting so much, it might end up as a net positive for you.   But it does confirm that such a product does exist. Try to look for a reputable retailer to sell you bulk tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T13:36:23.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13305" CreationDate="2012-11-21T13:51:12.207" Score="3" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 1,85m tall, have shoes sized 58-59 (European) and have classic non sloped frame with seat tube 55cm. Problem is that my feet land with their middle on the pedals, not with the front part where the toes are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will try to move seat more to the back, but other than that, is it possible to look for different geometry on the frame, or are almost all frames the same in that respect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T08:59:28.887" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T19:56:28.127" Title="Feet on the middle of the pedals" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13301" CreationDate="2012-11-21T14:05:09.323" Score="2" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Shimano M542 with 3 chainrings (44-32-22) for 9 speed chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to fit it with chainrings made of steel for better durability? I do not mind extra weight. The dimensions are 110 BCD 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes where can they be bought?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastEditorUserId="5563" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T14:11:56.407" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T14:45:34.977" Title="Steel chainrings for 3x9 speed setups" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13294" CreationDate="2012-11-21T14:24:48.710" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need a 10-speed cassette, 10-speed rear derailleur, and 10-speed right side shifter and a 10-speed chain to work with the narrower spacing on the rear cassette. There tend to be some compatibility issues with 9-speed derailleurs run on a 10-speed drivetrain (some people seem to have luck using 9-speed shimano mountain derailleurs with 10-speed shifters, but YMMV).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 9-speed front chainrings should be fine.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html#chainrings&quot;&gt;Sheldon seems to agree on that point&lt;/a&gt; However, I wouldn't expect it to work on 8 or 7 speed chainrings, but it very well may.  I've upgraded my own 10-speed outer front chainring with a 9-speed one on a 10-speed Tiagra setup and haven't had any issues with it. There shouldn't be any issue with the left shifter, derailleur, or bottom bracket, those should be fine as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to consider is the brakes. 10-speed STI shifters may have a different lever pull ratio than the 9-speed levers, this may only apply to ultegra and dura ace though (please correct me If I'm wrong on this). So, you'll probably be OK if you're sticking with tiagra.  Otherwise, you may want to upgrade STI levers at the same time and possibly get brakes with a matching pull ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T14:24:48.710" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13299" CreationDate="2012-11-21T14:45:34.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0081UV654&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vuelta mountain crankset&lt;/a&gt; which came with steel chainrings in the same 44-23-22 sizes to replace the alloy rings on the same crankset you have.  Everything seems to work fine after some minor adjustment of the front derailleur.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T14:45:34.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13280" CreationDate="2012-11-21T15:18:43.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carradice.co.uk/index.php?page_id=product&amp;amp;under=other&amp;amp;product_id=69&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rain Cape&lt;/a&gt; (basically a poncho) if you want to keep drier on the legs without overheating as much.  The design diverts water away from your legs and has more ventilation than a standard jacket since it has the open bottom.  If you've got fenders to keep the splashing to a minimum, a rain cape, and cheap water resistant pants (for days with heavy rain), then you'll stay pretty dry on your commute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T15:18:43.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13298" CreationDate="2012-11-21T16:43:57.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of pedal are you using? You're a relatively tall guy for a 55 cm bike. You're almost my height, I think you would be much more comfortable on a frame that's closer to 59 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T16:43:57.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-21T17:28:43.430" Score="-1" ViewCount="1623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a felt Nine comp. It is a 29er with rockshox  forks. The clearance is poor with a continental rubber queen tyre. Is there anything I can do to increase the clearance? (we're talking 1cm, which results in quick mud jams.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T21:12:22.113" Title="Fork MTB clearance problem" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13298" CreationDate="2012-11-21T17:35:05.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always add some toe clips to your pedals they will keep your feet positioned on the pedals better.  Clipless pedals - like Shimano SPD or Crank Bros Egg Beaters -  work great too, but they do require special shoes with cleats on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5371" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T17:35:05.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13298" CreationDate="2012-11-21T18:11:56.547" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand the problem correctly, it sounds like you're sitting too far forward on this bike. Whether you're too tall for your frame or not is difficult to diagnose without at least pictures, but you might consider that this bike is simply too small for you. (If you're having trouble getting the handlebars far enough forward, that's a sign that this could be the case.) Are you able to get the saddle high enough so your knees are locked with the heel of your foot on the pedal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also consider simply moving your saddle back on the rails. That might give you a little more room. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also repeat Wadelp's suggestion - toe clips will help you keep your feet correctly positioned on the pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T18:11:56.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5206" CreationDate="2012-11-21T19:53:07.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good citrus cleaner degreaser is much better than simple green. It is derived from natural components such as de-limoline found in citrus fruits. Does it work? You bet it does. Safe? I have never had any issues with it. The one I use that I have found is called Hillyard Citrus Scrub. You can use it on just about any surface that water won't hurt. (not recommended to use on glass) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is where I get mine. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.baxtersales.com/Catalog/CatalogProductDetail.aspx?itemno=HYD-143-1-GA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.baxtersales.com/Catalog/CatalogProductDetail.aspx?itemno=HYD-143-1-GA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will ship it to you straight out of their stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5565" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T19:53:07.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13304" CreationDate="2012-11-21T21:01:31.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a look at pics of the bike, and see the clearance is small on a 2.1 tire  - Rockshox Recon and the standard 29 x 2.1 are pretty standard across many bikes (mine included) and I have not heard of  a problem.  The Rubber Queen is a 2.4, so I would suggest going back to a 2.1 and see if you still have a problem (maybe the bike maker does know what they are doing when they choose tire sizes).  If you really want to stick to a 2.4 size, look around for a low profile tire.  However, the Recon is not an AM shock - it's designed for XC, where 2.1 is the more common size used and 2.4 has little advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the only thing you can do it go to smaller tire or replace the shock. Smaller tire is a cheaper option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to stick to drier tracks. If you are getting that much mud buildup despite having a lot of fun you are likely destroying the tracks you are riding. One of the key mountain biking rules is &quot;Tread lightly&quot;.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T21:12:22.113" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T21:12:22.113" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10812" CreationDate="2012-11-22T06:52:54.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering everyday traffic, I'd rather take a longer detour than bike within all other bikers. My worst traffic accidents all were with other bikers, using the wrong side of the road, not respecting simplest rules like priority to the right. &#xA;I avoid especially narrow curves that are hardly visual accessible and open for both directions of bike traffic. Here, I am wondering why I do not see the Darwinian principle at work. In this case, the number of bikers on the wrong side of bike paths in my area should decrease over time. Or is it the other way round, i.e. those bikers that caused the accident by using the wrong side (or no side? what side?) suvive while those hit die out or start to no longer use bike routes?&#xA;;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these reasons, I love winter. Bikers who use their bike all year round are seemingly more likely to apply the simple rules that help in biking without accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T06:52:54.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13311" CreationDate="2012-11-22T07:48:33.263" Score="1" ViewCount="1151" Body="&lt;p&gt;My budget is $300 - $400. I live in India.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My doubt is whether, its better buying a new bike or just assemble different good company spare parts (used or new).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am very new to cycling, so please help...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-12-17T19:08:28.590" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T10:10:03.820" Title="Buy a new cycle or assemble new parts?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13310" CreationDate="2012-11-22T09:13:53.020" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know about India, but assembling from parts in my end of the world costs a lot more than a new bike. I know of many instances where people buy a &quot;donor&quot; bike for good new parts at a reasonable price. If you can get parts at the right price, it may be worth it, but problems with compatibility between components can lead to a  lot of blood, sweat and tears, as well as expense, especially for a beginner. It seems every year has at least one small but significant change that is incompatible with last years model.... Something as simple as seat posts - One post recently someone counted 39 different sizes -size increments are 0.1mm - measuring the hole that accurately is not possible for most of us. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about India. but where I live you can get great secondhand bikes for good prices, if you do homework and take care. My 14 year old neighbor just got a &quot;new condition&quot; second hand bike for $850 -  a new one with equivalent components would have been $2.5K. The previous owner was obviously a fanatic on maintenance and all of the important bits look anything more than a few 100km old. It's not risk free, but its the best way to ride a better bike than you would otherwise be able to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is end of season and last years bikes - often 1/2 retail price just because the color changed. This is a good way to get into a new bike cheaply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T09:13:53.020" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-22T11:55:58.537" Score="3" ViewCount="4780" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bicycle went from this when I bought it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NkcSX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this when I crashed (note the front fork bent where it attaches to the stem; front wheel almost touches the down tube):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0SDvg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;crashed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Just looked at the frame and saw cracks in the paint on &lt;a href=&quot;http://s10.postimage.org/isdw1j5hz/2012_11_22.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;top tube&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://s15.postimage.org/id37q61xl/2012_11_22.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;down tube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastEditorUserId="4160" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T22:03:32.020" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T08:42:42.510" Title="Is it safe to ride with bent fork?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13312" CreationDate="2012-11-22T13:45:03.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, that second image is a little too small to see what the bike's condition is, but I knew a guy back in the 70s (a fairly avid biker) who bent his fork rear-ending a parked car.  (Yeah, he was a bit sheepish about that.)  The fork was bent back to where the tire just barely cleared the down tube.  He rode it like that for at least 4-5 months, probably doing 200 or more miles a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: This was a steel bike -- if that wasn't obvious from the date.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, handling will be affected -- that's for you to assess.  And I wouldn't trust a bent fork with aluminum or composite components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T13:45:03.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13310" CreationDate="2012-11-22T13:55:34.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, my own experience is that the cost of the new bike is generally a lot less than if you bought the parts separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you say you are very new to cycling. If you did go out and buy parts, how confident are you that (a) you'd be buying the correct parts, (b) you'd have the tools to fit them properly, and (c) you'd have the know-how to fit them properly? I don't mean to be at all derogatory to you when I say the last bit, I'm just pointing out that some of the work will be very challenging to a novice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, I don't know the Indian market, or really what type of bike you're looking for, but your budget doesn't seem that huge. As a third alternative, have you considered second hand? Of course there is an associated risk with this (buying a piece of crap, buying something stolen, etc.) but I'm sure with some research you could reduce these risks. You may even find shops which specifically sell used bikes (and therefore anything you buy will come with some kind of warranty). Shops like this exist in England although I don't think many main dealers bother with second-hand nowadays...too much competition from eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T13:55:34.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13312" CreationDate="2012-11-22T13:59:24.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good LBS can straighten steel fork, but it would be a good idea to replace it when you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in your picture top tube also seems to be bent. If that is true than the frame has also been compromised which is much more serious problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T13:59:24.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13312" CreationDate="2012-11-22T18:14:46.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;besides the structural issues, looks like this crash has changed your bike geometry &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_and_motorcycle_geometry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rake&lt;/a&gt;, head angle, tail, and wheel base.  This will likely result in much more sensitivity to handlebar input.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, I would advise against riding the bike, particularly on low traction surface since a small jerk can put it a handle-bar lock and you into an endo.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others noted, the clearance from the down-tube is also cause for caution.  The steel fork can likely be bent back, provided that there are no frame fractures and wheel damage (hard to imagine the wheel being perfect with forks bent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;otherwise, it doesn't seem likely that the steel bike would disintegrate as you're riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5574" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T18:14:46.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13298" CreationDate="2012-11-22T18:25:11.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideally, the ball of your feet (the part just below the toes), should be on the pedal to transfer power to the pedals (efficiently and bio-mechanically healthy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also likely causing your knees to &quot;flare&quot; away from the frame (like a V).  You'll want to keep your knee, toes and hip on the same vertical plane.  otherwise long term could lead to knee ligament problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the bike is too small for you.  At 185cm, I would think a 58-62cm frame is better suited depending on your leg length.  see &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycling.about.com/od/howtoride/a/bike_sizing.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bicycling.about.com/od/howtoride/a/bike_sizing.htm&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/road-bike/size-sheet?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;amp;u=in&amp;amp;r=man&amp;amp;h=1879.6&amp;amp;i=863.6&amp;amp;b=Calculate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/road-bike/size-sheet?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;amp;u=in&amp;amp;r=man&amp;amp;h=1879.6&amp;amp;i=863.6&amp;amp;b=Calculate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5574" LastEditorUserId="5574" LastEditDate="2012-11-24T19:56:28.127" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T19:56:28.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13298" CreationDate="2012-11-22T18:59:24.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to try this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online fit computer&lt;/a&gt;. It does require several measurements, but the results are generally pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding changing the geometry, you can sometimes make a small bike work, but it will never be as good as a properly-sized bike. I know someone who rides a too-small Colnago because he's so attached to it. He has a 120mm stem (maybe longer, can't recall), and his seat is as far back as possible. He's around 1.83m tall, and his bike is a 54 or 55 (can't recall). He was commuting on the bike, around 200 miles (322 km)/week. But just because it works for him doesn't mean it will work for you. It depends on &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; geometry, too. Long legs, short arms would be worse on a too-small bike than short legs, long arms on the same bike, because you need a certain amount of leg extension to pedal efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2012-11-24T18:23:12.200" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T18:23:12.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13230" CreationDate="2012-11-22T19:38:08.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could buy some digital calipers for $16.  Nice thing to have around the house anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000GSLKIW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T19:38:08.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13263" CreationDate="2012-11-22T20:10:21.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The link says that the BB you have is a 68mm shell width, which is standard ISO/British thread.  That's going to fit a lot of bikes.  It is not designed specifically for eccentric bottom brackets.  To use the item you linked to in a single/fixed speed bike you would need horizontal (or at least diagonal) dropouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that was part of an eccentric BB assembly, you would also have had something sort of like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Misc-Frame-Sup-Bushnell-Eccentric-BB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jensonusa.com/Misc-Frame-Sup-Bushnell-Eccentric-BB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that it would have gone into, and then that eccentric BB would have gone into an oversized/eccentric bottom bracket shell that was part of the bike frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have that eccentric bottom bracket, then you might be able to go looking for a frame with a same-size eccentric bottom bracket shell that it would fit into.  Such a frame would then have vertical dropouts, because there's no reason to have an eccentric shell and horizontal dropouts in the same frame -- don't need to solve the chain-tensioning problem twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T20:10:21.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13356" CreationDate="2012-11-23T06:53:10.940" Score="2" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope this question isn't too subjective or open-ended, but I would like to know what I should look out for when buying a beginner mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My aim is to ride off-road and downhill tracks, but I don't know what type of bike I should be looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I look at a hardtail or do I get a second hand full suspension bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there specific brands that I should look out for or stay clear of? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other tips that you might have would also be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the comment below I am adding some more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trails that I am looking at is more the foresty type single tracks. The way I am going to get to the top will be to take a back-route that is more open view. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all intensive purposes the forest scenario will be ridden the majority of the time, but I will surely do open view rides as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the current exchange rate as it is I would say that my budget is roughly in the $1000 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5577" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-12-17T19:01:34.757" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T19:01:34.757" Title="Tips on buying a beginner mountain bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-23T09:30:01.963" Score="4" ViewCount="3483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want change the groupset on my Scott Addict R2 from Shimano to Campagnolo.  Is Campagnolo fully compatible or will I need to make frame changes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5578" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T14:19:03.157" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T14:57:50.713" Title="Are frame changes needed to switch groupset from Shimano to Campagnolo?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13323" CreationDate="2012-11-23T11:30:08.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you will need to change the frame, I looked at one of the bianchi series a while back and I saw the same frame (the Oltre - I can but dream) offered at different prices depending on the groupset. But the groupsets available were from both shimano and campag. There's variations with Dura Ace, Ultegra, Athena, Super Record etc. I can't imagine the actual frame would be different between these groupsets, otherwise surely it would have a different name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the link to that page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bianchi.com/Uk/Bikes/Bikes_List.aspx?RangeIDMaster=74825&amp;amp;CategoryIDMaster=74829&quot;&gt;http://www.bianchi.com/Uk/Bikes/Bikes_List.aspx?RangeIDMaster=74825&amp;amp;CategoryIDMaster=74829&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to visit the Scott site, you may find something similar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I can imagine you're going to have to change just about everything else, though, including wheels (well, as far as the freehub at least).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T11:46:21.837" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T11:46:21.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13322" CreationDate="2012-11-23T12:11:40.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it helps, I bought my first mtb last Easter and did not look beyond the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardmanbikes.com/mtb/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boardman range&lt;/a&gt;. Can you get these in SA? They regularly win awards from (UK) magazines and are known primarily for being great value for money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been very impressed with mine, although I should qualify that by adding that I soon decided that I preferred tarmac, so it doesn't get anywhere near as much exercise as my road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards the features you want, can I suggest you work out first how much you want to spend? Once you've got an idea, you'll find that steers you naturally toward a spec. There's a definite relationship going on between price and things like frame composition, suspension options etc. I suggest to get some idea of this you pick a single manufacturer and look at how the bikes' specs vary as you go up and down the range. Even if you can't get/don't want a Boardman, the link above will give you some idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was basically how I approached the purchase of my first &quot;serious&quot; bike (which was a road bike): I knew I was a total novice, and I knew that there were a zillion choices out there, so I went for a Trek because, basically, if that's the brand that Lance rode then they must be decent. And the actual model was purely down to budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T12:11:40.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13255" CreationDate="2012-11-23T13:07:19.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have also discovered &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikedynamics.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Dynamics&lt;/a&gt; in Leamington Spa and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike-science.com/precision-bike-fitting-c-295.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Science&lt;/a&gt; in Bristol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to contact them as well as the other suggestions and see what they offer, updating this answer with my experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T13:07:19.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13354" CreationDate="2012-11-23T17:33:45.837" Score="2" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this item at an online shop, but can not find infomation about this product. Anyone knows this hub set? and any review infomation available there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5423" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T02:44:04.553" Title="Has Shimano produced Ultegra 600 Hub Set, 32 hole?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13323" CreationDate="2012-11-23T20:54:53.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. There are no frame changes required. The only time I could imagine this would be required is if you are looking at the electronic groupos, and frames that have specific battery mounts for one particular groupo. However, even then I'm sure there'd be a workaround.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T20:54:53.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13333" CreationDate="2012-11-23T21:25:56.703" Score="3" ViewCount="1041" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1999&amp;amp;Brand=Marin&amp;amp;Model=San%20Anselmo&amp;amp;Type=bike#.UK_h5Xevg5Z&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marin San Anselmo&lt;/a&gt; hybrid for some 13 years and I'd guess I've done over 7000 miles on it almost exclusively on the road (and it's not my commuting bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm gradually doing more cycling and longer distances and I'm finding myself increasingly uncomfortable (neck and inside leg). So I'm starting to wonder if it's actually suited to the kind of riding I do. I'm already looking to get a proper &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13255/bike-fitting-in-the-uk/&quot;&gt;bike fit&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm also considering a custom frame in steel or titanium with higher spec components and (gulp!) drop handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 5ft 8in (174cm), 30inch inside leg, 10 stone (140lbs/64kg). A bit small for a bloke, but not that freaky for a cyclist perhaps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the level of bike I'm looking at, the cost doesn't seem to be much more than something off the shelf, but it is a lot more hassle. Then again I hope this bike to last me the rest of my days, so maybe it's worth the effort to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering if a custom frame will make me more comfortable and/or faster and what experiences similar-sized people have had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T09:19:36.630" Title="Is a custom road frame worthwhile?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;randonneuring&gt;&lt;titanium&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13280" CreationDate="2012-11-23T22:00:47.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are &quot;not worried about getting wet when it is super rainy&quot; I would suggest to skip rain pants completely. &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/11/23/an-impromptu-ride/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ride&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/11/19/why-we-dont-need-rain-bikes-any-longer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;good fenders&lt;/a&gt; in normal cycling clothes you would use at the same (or slightly lower) temperatures if it was dry. For me that often means tights with woolen, thin knee warmers. Change into civilian clothes at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have yet to find one good pair of waterproof cycling pants. The better ones all look fine in the shop. But they either fail more or less completely to keep me dry in the first heavy downpour, or they are less comfortable than damp tights. After instead using them as a wind breaker during winter for one season they will definitely not be waterproof in the saddle area any longer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T22:00:47.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3469" CreationDate="2012-11-23T22:46:08.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As other users have suggested, using an adjustable crescent wrench is the way to go.  I recently fixed a bent chainring, and was able to get it nearly perfect with a crescent wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend taking a piece of cardboard and cutting a slit in it for the chainring to go through.  Tape the cardboard to the bike frame, and as you move the pedals you can see whether the chainring goes through the slit in the cardboard.  This will help you get the chainring better than you could with visual inspection alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5580" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T22:46:08.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2012-11-24T00:24:20.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Custom frames are better, but for many people there is enough adjustability in standard components to get a good fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, find a fitter who is also a physical therapist. Getting comfortable on a bike for longer distances is often a matter of fitting the bike to you &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; fitting you to the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T00:24:20.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2012-11-24T02:05:06.650" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a cyclist who had a hard time getting comfortable on road geometry with drop handlebars, I will recommend that you ride as many different bikes as possible for a long time before you consider dropping money on a &quot;custom&quot; bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering frame material and construction, geometry quirks, wheel sizes, brake types, drivetrain compatibility, tire clearance, frame lifespan, braze-ons, so on and so forth....there are LOTS of different bikes out there. To illustrate this, consider: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lugged steel touring bike with 650b wheels, cantilever brakes, ample tire clearance, and brazed-on fittings for racks, pumps, bottles and whatnot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A carbon fiber race bike with integrated headset/bottom bracket, tucked in rear wheel, seat mast, 700c wheels with aero-spokes, etc. etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bikes are two very different creatures. You can find shops who can fit you to either with great aplomb, but in reality these bikes are not interchangeable (regardless of whether you think one is better than the other.) The issue is less of fitting a bike to a person's body parts, and more of fitting it to a person's needs and wants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're just about my size, maybe an inch shorter, and I usually ride a 56 cm frame - a &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; common frame size. Being an average size (yes, you are an average size guy) you essentially have the bike world at your disposal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people may feel like a &quot;lifetime&quot; bike exists for them, but I'm of the opinion that there is no need to be wedded to a bicycle because they are so very diverse - bicycles fill more of a use than fitting your body properly (and the inescapable truth is that your body will change just as surely as your cycling needs will.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My short recommendation is to invest in a good-fitting touring or sport-touring bike with a steel frame. They're comfortable, versatile, affordable, long-living, and easy to service. It'll be way easier to get comfortable on this than an aggressive road bike and it will also be easier to sell down the road (because touring components use pretty much the same technology now as over the last 25-40 years.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T02:05:06.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13298" CreationDate="2012-11-24T04:41:40.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seatpost#Offset.2FLayback&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;offset seat post&lt;/a&gt;, that will help get your seat back a little further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, sure, a different &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_frame#Seat_tube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seat tube&lt;/a&gt; angle would change the spatial relationship between your rear and your feet.  But that angle doesn't change too much between the various road bike frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps shortening the effective top-tube length (forcing you more upright) might help the feeling - you can get a shorter stem, or different handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It begs the question - why do you care where your feet hit?  If the current scenario is comfortable, then why change it?  Unicyclists (mountain at least) ride with the pedal just in front of their heel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your shoe size (58-59), I can imagine your feet are hitting the front wheel when you turn sharply - so maybe that's the reason...  On some bikes I have that problem, and I wear only 48.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More drastic changes could be switching seat types, like a banana seat (yes, you might look silly).  Or switching bicycle styles, say to a recumbent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, really, if the change doesn't &quot;feel&quot; right, have you tried it for an extended period of time?  I'm thinking a couple hours (cumulative) - to get past the initial reaction.  Maybe you've just been riding mid-foot so long it will take a while to change what feels comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T04:41:40.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2012-11-24T13:14:04.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what it sounds like is that you've been trying to do sportive 'road' riding on a hybrid bike which has a geometry that doesn't fit your riding style well. It may feel fine for more casual riding, but not for your more sporty style.  You need bikes that works for the types of riding which you prefer to do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many places can do a pre-purchase bike fitting. They can put you on an adjustable machine that will identify the frame size, stem-length, etc that suits you. If this is done at a shop, they will then likely be able to help you choose a bike that fits you and perform a second fit where they will dial in seat height, cleat position, and  correct any fit issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will they recommend a custom frame?  Maybe, but I'd try to do a fit like this first (don't just get fitted on your existing bike, it's not ideal for your current riding style). Get your fitter's recommendation and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could just go find a good road bike that seems to fit well, and ride it for a while. It will likely be way more comfortable for your riding style and may address some of the issues you have. If you have any pain / discomfort, then take it in for a fitting to correct those shortfalls.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T13:14:04.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13346" CreationDate="2012-11-24T16:01:09.357" Score="5" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;How often do you need to have your fork and rear shock fully serviced?  My guess is that this depends on how many miles you are riding, so lets say 150 miles/ year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5371" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T17:48:00.343" Title="Suspension Maintenance" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13336" CreationDate="2012-11-24T16:44:39.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously, this depends on the make and model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even more obviously, it depends on riding conditions, mainly on how much mud and water the hardware is dealing with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Fully serviced&quot; is also an imprecise term, manufacturers may indicate different service actions with different frequency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By caring well for the shocks (mainly by cleaning off the mud, and periodically cleaning gaskets etc.) you can extend the inter-service intervals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, just to provide you with an anchor point: for a bike exploited almost solely off-road, year round in continental northern European climate, I would say a typical service interval for shocks/forks would be 2000-4000 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T16:44:39.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13339" CreationDate="2012-11-24T21:43:20.147" Score="6" ViewCount="3214" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the summer, I like to go for rides on trails without a shirt. Is this safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, related: is it rude to other people on the trail not to wear a shirt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5583" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T00:28:09.647" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T09:12:58.767" Title="Is riding shirtless safe?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13338" CreationDate="2012-11-24T22:04:22.703" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Safe is a relative term in this instance. A shirt might protect you in a fall, but only just. You'll know immediately whether a shirt can protect your skin from sticks, branches, and prickers dangling into the trail. If you were going fast enough flying insects may even make an impact, though I can't imagine it'd be terribly painful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shirts do offer some protection from two things: sunburns (and subsequent skin cancer) and bites from insects (potentially carrying disease.) For lightly complexioned people, skin cancer is a huge danger and can develop even without having been sunburned. Insect-borne diseases are also a big deal in most places. Having been treated for Lyme disease, I can attest to the importance of wearing insect repellent and, yes, shirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, that thin layer of material actually keeps you cooler by blocking the sun from reaching your skin - this is the same reason why desert dwelling peoples wear lightweight material all over their bodies. Having a shirt on also keeps you from sweating all over your bike and other gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of etiquette: if you're out in the woods and there aren't many people around, go for it. If you're bumping elbows with people on a multi-use trail, maybe consider some modesty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T22:04:22.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13338" CreationDate="2012-11-24T22:05:02.280" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A typical shirt or bike jersey has no security benefits. Depending on the terrain some special protectors might make sense when thining about security. One might even argue that a shirt might reduce security as it might be caucght by a tree or something&#xA;Whether iit is &quot;rude&quot; depends on your local environment. In some areas it's absolutely accetable, in others not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T22:05:02.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13338" CreationDate="2012-11-24T22:20:34.917" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you fall off, I can't see how a shirt would protect you. It might reduce grazes slightly, but it's negligible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A shirt may protect you from sunlight and risks of sunburn and skin cancer, although, unless it states UV protection, most shirts let some sunlight through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on where/when you ride, you may be more at risk of insect bites or simply getting them stuck in your sweat - nice!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rudeness&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bit of a personal opinion on whether it's rude. Personally I'm not bothered at all. I'm more offended by dry creaky chains. I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; legally (in the UK, at least), it legal for anyone to show their bare chest in public, regardless of gender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T22:20:34.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-11-25T00:03:57.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will the rear dropouts and front fork of your bike frame hold road bike wheels?  You can find a 700c wheel to try it out in the front fork.  Next place it beside your rear wheel to see if your frame has the clearance to allow the 700c.  If the 700c will fit, you're golden!&#xA;If the 700c size does NOT fit, just buy the same size wheels you have right now in a light weight and skinny (22mm/cc or so) to reduce weight.  Buy or swap for tires with a smoothish surface.  Then you will have less rolling resistance.  Closer to a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to get to know the different part sizes of road bikes and mtb bikes and what makes them different.  Both modern about 20yrs old or less mtb and road bikes have 100mm front spacing.  Road frames are typically spaced 130mm at the rear dropouts and support 700c wheels, whereas mtbs are spaced by 135mm and can accept anything from 26&quot; to 700C wheels.  Some &quot;hybrids&quot; and most cyclocross bikes accept 700c and most widths of tires usually upto 42c or so, depending again on clearance.  You can choose the right axle size hub (WHEELS!) according to your frame and it's front/rear wheel spacing (as mentioned) and clearance (front and rear fork height).  I'm doing something similar as you, except I already know the hybrid mtb frame I have accepts 700c, so I'm OK to add 700c wheels.  Some marketers decided to call these wheels &quot;29ers&quot; but it's marketing hype.  I just bought a new cheap/good 700c alex ace19 rear wheel for 60$ with a 135mm hub.  I already have the matching front 700c 100mm hub Ace19 wheel from my summer bike (that's why I chose it).  Now I can choose almost any 700c tire I want to go on my new road sized wheels that fit to my mtb frame.  Hopefully this all makes sense. lol.  I was in your shoes about 3 mths ago before researching and tinkering with bikes.  Now I do my own repairs and home build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5502" LastEditorUserId="5502" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T00:53:59.633" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T00:53:59.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13338" CreationDate="2012-11-25T00:21:14.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd have little to no protection against scrapes on trees or bushes close to the trail. A shirt will give some protection from the sun, bugs/insects, and those who share the trail feel being shirtless is best saved for the beach or pool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T00:21:14.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13230" CreationDate="2012-11-25T01:45:15.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The seat post dimension for Citizen bikes, according to customer support, is 31.8mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5519" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T01:45:15.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13336" CreationDate="2012-11-25T17:48:00.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most fork manufacturers will actually suggest service based on Hours on the fork, I know Fox will suggest you breakdown and clean all seals and replace open bath oil systems every 30 hours ridden.  Also most sealed gas dampers suggest you send them back to the manufacturer every X number of hours to have them rebuilt by the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5585" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T17:48:00.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-25T20:47:11.877" Score="13" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 27 years old and bound to a power chair due to severe back pain and spinal disease. I have had multiple surgeries and will soon have more. I would like to be active but I know that is nearly impossible due to me being bound to a power chair and the inability to walk except for around the house without a cane. Is there a way or a special bicycle that is made that I can ride a bike??? Please help! I'm dying to get out more without my chair!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5587" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T12:50:44.040" Title="How can I ride a bike having severe spinal disease and pain?" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="135" CreationDate="2012-11-25T21:30:58.457" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tour-qtr.com/epaper_4_2011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this chain survey&lt;/a&gt;. See page 44 and onwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately I have been using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/review-lubricants/dumonde-tech-bicycle-chain-lube_59.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dumonde lube&lt;/a&gt; on my chain and I have been pretty satisfied. It makes it easy to keep the drive-train clean, but it does require the chain be completely degreased prior to the first application. My experience has been consistent with the review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T21:30:58.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13347" CreationDate="2012-11-25T21:34:21.490" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think some sort of a tricycle would be the best choice for you, probably a recumbent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this is the first thing that comes to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVVOB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You lay in a reclined position and pedal with your feet in front of you.  These come in several variants, from fully reclined (such as the above) to more upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also numerous variations of the hand-powered cycle, and some that are operated with both hands and feet such as this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9qJ8D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these are &quot;stock&quot;, while others are fairly highly customized &quot;one-off&quot; bikes.  (But several versions of the basic tricycle recumbent are available &quot;off the shelf&quot; at relatively reasonable prices.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never seen any of these bike styles with an auxiliary motor, but I'm sure there are some.  Several battery-assist systems are available for standard bikes and could be easily adapted to a recumbent.  A full-power gasoline engine would be a bit more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T21:34:21.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13347" CreationDate="2012-11-25T22:37:53.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no personal knowledge but have heard of the Courage Center. It is an organization that helps people with varied challenges with rehab and fitness issues. A German company called Stricker makes a bicycle type attachment that connect to a standard wheel chair, unfortunately their website doesn't translate all of it into english.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T22:37:53.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13347" CreationDate="2012-11-26T01:36:43.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to ask your question &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php/316-Adaptive-Cycling-Handcycles-Amputee-Adaptation-Visual-Impairment-and-Other-Needs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a fairly active forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are so many options, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SZbX54qp1g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike-on.com/catalog/handcycles-52/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the cycles you see here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T01:45:16.117" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T01:45:16.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2012-11-26T01:58:11.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine as long as you can secure that broken spoke to the nearest spoke either by twisting it around the good spoke, or securing it with a piece of duct tape or bandaid which all bikers should carry. As long as you're sure it won't get loose and get into the derailleur or brake. You can losen it up to make the twisting job easier, but that usually isn't necessary. Just take it easy on the ride home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T01:58:11.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13327" CreationDate="2012-11-26T02:44:04.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert on Shimano components, but according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/shimano.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ListComponents.aspx?SearchID=80683781-cd30-4bd5-a1c5-242358910b6b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velobase&lt;/a&gt;, there were many 32H hubs from the Shimano 600 series: &quot;Shimano added the word 'Ultegra' to their 600 group set in 1988 with the introduction of the 6400 series groupset. Also often recognized by the tri-color stripe on many of the parts.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Velobase, &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=1E5F0209-4650-4284-B009-14E4658367FA&amp;amp;Enum=110&amp;amp;AbsPos=64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this is a 32H Shimano 600 Ultegra hub&lt;/a&gt;. I'm not sure if that is what you are looking for. &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=AC8D3B5A-AE8D-4DCB-AB65-DC1AEBE1F598&amp;amp;Enum=110&amp;amp;AbsPos=65&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is another&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T02:44:04.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13357" CreationDate="2012-11-26T11:14:44.577" Score="2" ViewCount="3390" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say there's no sales person in a bike shop and you are just looking for bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The criteria would be a good bike to ride to work on side-walks(paved or smooth) and the occasional off-road on the weekends. Female user, small budget, but the bike should have a kickstand, a good seat, lights and a bell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the things to look for before purchasing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In Norway, bikes aren't too cheap but the buyer doesn't feel comfortable buying the cheapest)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5589" LastEditorUserId="5589" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T17:53:38.820" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T17:53:38.820" Title="How to tell if a bike is good before purchasing?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13322" CreationDate="2012-11-26T11:17:52.690" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;At your level all brands are equal and you can find a suitable bike for yourself in almost all brands. Focusing on a specific brand will only make it easier for you to choose but don't, for one second, believe that you've found a better brand than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest visiting a couple of LBSes (local bike shops) to get more info and test ride a couple of bikes (even in the parking lot). Pay attention to sizing. This is something that your LBS will help you with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a bike for getting stronger and having a bit of safe fun then any $1000 26 inch XC hardtail with 100mm front travel will do the job. The bike will take you anywhere and will last for decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel that at some point you'll want to get more aggressive then you'll need a more aggressive hardtail with slacker head angle and around 140mm of front travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T11:17:52.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13355" CreationDate="2012-11-26T11:37:52.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;New bikes are usually good to go. The LBS (local bike shop) will usually allow you to bring it back after a months time in order to readjust and tighten things that may have come lose. Ask about whether this is supported or not. Also ask about the guarantee and its exact details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you could ask for a test ride (even in the parking lot) to make sure that the bike works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the bike should:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have inflated tyres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have no loose parts (grips, bars, saddle, cranks, pedals, wheels)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have working brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be able to shift gears smoothly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T13:40:20.817" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T13:40:20.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13355" CreationDate="2012-11-26T12:29:03.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, and this is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; general, there are two flavours of bike shop - the big brand, 'big box' shop like a supermarket and then the 'Local Bike Shop' (LBS), much more like the local corner shop where the shopkeeper is, allegedly, more interested in the customer. Gross oversimplification I know, but you get the idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the LBS I would be absolutely shocked if they allowed a customer to buy a bike without asking some questions about the prospective use. That said, even in a big box store, it's going to be unlikely that you could pick up a boxed new bike and just take it to the till without any involvement from the sales person. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days, the build quality on new bikes (especially on the known large brands), is close to perfect. Any defects you'll have will stem from local assembly - loose nuts, under-inflated tyres, etc. If the bike looks, even to the uninitiated, as if it will do the job, it probably will. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T12:29:03.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13366" CreationDate="2012-11-26T19:06:12.330" Score="7" ViewCount="1608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Manchester, United Kingdom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cycle to and from work everyday. On my route there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=manchester&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ll=53.475738,-2.250872&amp;amp;spn=0.000934,0.002411&amp;amp;hnear=Manchester,%20United%20Kingdom&amp;amp;t=h&amp;amp;z=19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;staggered crossroad&lt;/a&gt; where I have to go straight on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f93wL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Staggered Crossroads&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above is the traffic lighted junction I have to navigate, I travel from Liverpool Road to Great Bridge Water Street and vice versa on the way to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm the green arrow and a car turning right(North North East in the image) is the red arrow - who has right of way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tonight a White Fiesta (New Shape) (red arrow) Thought he would show me who was boss and swerved towards my bike (green arrow) &lt;strong&gt;intentionally&lt;/strong&gt; because he must have thought I was in the wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't the first time someone has done this at this junction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am quite shaken-up from the intimidation - is there anything I can do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do have right of way - I am only really left with one option find a different route because drivers just don't get it, However if im wrong then how can I approach this junction correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5590" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T20:43:06.707" Title="Who has right of way at a staggered crossroad" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;uk&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-26T21:20:59.330" Score="2" ViewCount="7170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my Z012 freewheel due to wear on my 12 speed road bike.  I can't seem to find a replacement that matches it.  The large gear has 28 teeth and the small has 13.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a MF-TZ20 to replace it but the teeth on it are 1/8 in shorter and about 1/3 narrower?  The small gear has 14 teeth rather than the 13 on the original.  Will this work and if so will it effect the type of chain it will take? I need to change the chain as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5592" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T04:32:22.883" Title="Shimano MF Z012 replacement Freewheel?" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13360" CreationDate="2012-11-27T01:33:29.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ross-27-Bicycle-Shimano-MF-Z012-Rear-Sprocket-/160917703386&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one on eBay now&lt;/a&gt;, no? I would think many Shimano 6-speed freewheels would work, and there are many on eBay. But &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html#speeds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;there were different spacings&lt;/a&gt;. The MF-Z012 was late 1980's, so your rear dropouts should be 126mm or thereabouts, meaning you could go &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/freewheels.html#6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;with a 6- or 7-speed freewheel&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T01:33:29.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13360" CreationDate="2012-11-27T02:00:18.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really any 6 speed freewheel will work. You'll want to get the tooth numbers close, but they don't have to be exact (your 14-28 will be a fine replacement.) Chain sizing for 6-7-8 speed drivetrains hasn't been significantly changed since they became popular, though the profiles and faces of the freewheel cog teeth have, in most brands, been altered to improve shifting quality (see the image below.) There is no need to worry about the tooth profile being incompatible with a modern 6-7-8 speed chain. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/amDV3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;6 speed freewheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will, however, want to replace the chain. This is because as a chain ages and wears, it becomes longer. The chain rollers/bushings/pins are spaced at an exact 1/2&quot;, and as it lengthens, they wear the chainrings and freewheel cogs into a hook profile. If you use your old chain on your new freewheel, you'll likely find that it skips when pedaling (hopefully your chainrings aren't similarly worn, but if they are you will know what to replace next.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T02:00:18.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13360" CreationDate="2012-11-27T04:02:05.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have an indexed shifter, more important that the width of the gears is the spacing - if that's the same (I expect it will be) then it will fit on the hub and the derailleur will move the correct amount to effect gear changes. If the shifter is not indexed, then it won't be so critical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should however replace the chain, as if the cluster is worn out, the chain is likely to be, and the old worn chain will quickly wear out a new cluster. You should carefully look at the chain rings (on the pedal cranks), and replace those (if worn) as well for the same reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tooth height and profile will not make a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 14 vs 13 smallest gear will mean you high gear is reduced - potentially reducing your top speed, otherwise it not be a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest some light reading over &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gearing/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T04:02:05.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13388" CreationDate="2012-11-27T07:14:52.907" Score="1" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am from India and am planning to get a new bicycle. In India the roadster bicycles are very common, hence are cheap and easy to get. Roadsters have 28.5'' diameter wheels. Is it possible to fit 700c wheels to roadster frame, install drops and new drivetrain (and brakes) to make it perform like a tourer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5594" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T17:07:40.113" Title="touring bicycle with roadster frame" Tags="&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13359" CreationDate="2012-11-27T08:27:23.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is a tricky situation. I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gov.uk/using-the-road-159-to-203/road-junctions-170-to-183&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this section of the highway code&lt;/a&gt; should cover it, but is very light on details like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are two ways to interpret the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. As two T-junctions a small distance apart, with you turning left and then right.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case it's a fairly clear cut - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gov.uk/using-the-road-159-to-203/road-junctions-170-to-183&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see rule 180&lt;/a&gt;. You've turned left, already on the main road and have priority over vehicles trying to join your lane, including ones turning right out of the road you're about to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. As a normal crossroads, with you going straight on, the other car turning right.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For case 1, from Internet discussions like &lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070612120118AA1M4Nj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this from Yahoo&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rac.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?1646-Highway-Code-ambiguous-issues-discussion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this from the RAC&lt;/a&gt; there seems to be little consensus on this. Many say that the traffic going straight on has priority, but then add that you have to give way to traffic coming from the right (as you would on a roundabout), which seems contradictory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My opinion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this needs official clarification, but in practice it would seem sensible to interpret it like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gov.uk/using-the-road-159-to-203/road-junctions-170-to-183&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 170&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;em&gt;&quot;watch out for pedestrians crossing a road into which you are turning. If they have started to cross they have priority, so give way&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When at a give way line, all vehicles must give way to others not crossing the give way line. So if you arrived at the junction and there was no other traffic coming, of course you would start to cross. Being a bike you're usually slower than a car, so a car which later arrives opposite you at their give-way line should give way to all traffic already on the junction or the other road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, from the look of it this is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.advanced-driving.co.uk/driving-tips/yellow-box-junctions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;box-junction&lt;/a&gt;, so the car must not proceed until its exit is clear. In the image below the green car attempting to turn right is in a very similar situation to the one you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pdwG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From Gov.uk&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you both arrived at the give-way line at the same moment, then given the above image, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; still have the priority (de jure), but it's not obvious and my instinct is to let the faster vehicle go first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, us cyclists have to be careful as collisions are usually more serious for us. Whenever cars do show you consideration, always give them a wave or nod of thanks, even if you have priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T12:17:33.770" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T12:17:33.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13370" CreationDate="2012-11-27T08:40:41.873" Score="8" ViewCount="9746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that suspension type(Horst-link, Four-bar etc.) affects how a full-suspension mountain bike handles, but you can often see these same types of suspension systems used with different shock placement. Some have a shock that sits under the top tube, while others have the shock mounted at the bottom of the seat tube. Does this placement affect the suspension characteristics as well, or is the shock just placed where it is for convenience? And if it does affect the suspension, what kind of characteristics does the different placements give? As you can see on the pictures, both bikes have a Horst-link, but the shock placement is different.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E9Uqi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Horst-link with push-shock.&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/joiau.png&quot; alt=&quot;Horst-link with rocker.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T13:23:54.567" Title="Does rear-shock placement affect suspension characteristics?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13367" CreationDate="2012-11-27T09:14:23.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two bikes you posted have probably got different:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;geometry (chainstay length, bb height, top tube length, head tube angle etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shock, shock characteristics and shock tuning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leverage ratio&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pivot placement and design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the above factors play heavy role in the performance and feeling of the bike. Placement per se (assume on two completely same bikes) should only affect the weight distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T09:14:23.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13367" CreationDate="2012-11-27T12:32:19.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, there are two abstract design parameters for a suspension system: trajectory of rear axle, and dynamic behavior (reaction force, damping) along this path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these parameters are simultaneously determined by the kynematic chain composed by the passive links AND the shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From single-pivot, suspension systems have evolved to 4-bar linkages (with wheel attached to one of the rocker bars), and more recently Virtual-Pivot-Point (VPP, where the whole rear triangle makes the coupler bar, allowing for potentially more elaborate trajectories).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, shocks have evolved from more simple and pre-set systems, to more non-linear, adaptive and multidimensionally adjustable systems. Some have up to five independent adjustments, as far as I know (Manitou Fifth Element, now discontinued).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's possible to categorize the bike's behaviour by linkage type alone, since the same topological configuration can be parameterized in almost infinite ways, and also the shock response has a definitive role in overall behaviour. On the other hand, bikes designed for certain purposes tend to have similar designs across manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the photos you posted, I'd say the first one intended to have a shorter travel, with a lighter shock intended for relatively lightweight applications, and the second one most probably has a larger travel, a more robust and rigid shock, and is intended for heavier use, but maybe it's not like this, I'm not really sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T12:32:19.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13367" CreationDate="2012-11-27T13:11:23.167" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, the main issue is the geometry that determines the arc the wheel follows as it responds to upward force on the tire.  Subtle changes in pivot points can affect that significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that the spring force and damping force that the shock applies at each point in the wheel arc is obviously also important.  And differences in shock placement are one way that a manufacturer would &quot;tune&quot; this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also, of course, the physical stiffness and durability of the shock mounting scheme, and the simple fact that some schemes facilitate a good frame design better than others.  And of course &quot;coolness&quot; and novelty of appearance are major criteria for the frame builder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One critical factor that isn't visible in those photos is the precise location of the pivot at the front of the chain stays.  That probably affects &quot;bob&quot; more than any other factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T13:11:23.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13372" CreationDate="2012-11-27T14:42:34.860" Score="2" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I patch a tube, does it need to be &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; a tire to &quot;remain fixed&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean: I understand an empty fixed tube will remain fixed if I keep it folded in a box...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how about with air inside? does the patch need the pressure against the tire to remain steady?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have pretty much never patched a tube,... so not really confident about the repair yet...&#xA;Is it a good idea to ensure the quality of the repair by inflating the fixed tube and leaving it out there for a few days and hope it keeps its pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T14:45:34.683" Title="Patched inner tube helped by pressure against tire?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13371" CreationDate="2012-11-27T14:45:34.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not necessary for the tube to have the external pressure of being installed in a tire. If patched correctly the patch will hold just fine if there are days or months before it is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My normal habit is to travel with a spare tube. When I flat, I switch the tube out, and carry the old one home where I patch it later. In my garage I have a box of patched tubes that I reuse as spares and the patches always hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wait a few minutes after patching, you can, as you ask, fill it with air outside of a tire, and the patch should still hold. In fact doing that and then dunking the tube in a basin of water can be a good way to test that the patch was installed correctly before you deflate it and store it for later use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T14:45:34.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13323" CreationDate="2012-11-27T15:15:47.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd have to change the rear wheel or have it rebuilt on a campy hub (the shimano hub is not compatible with campy cogs), and of course all the components. That said, nothing should need to be changed on the frame itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3031" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T16:05:16.900" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T16:05:16.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5274" CreationDate="2012-11-27T16:15:09.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also the Schlumpf drives, which fit inside a standard bottom bracket.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.haberstock-mobility.com/en/products/schlumpf-drive.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.haberstock-mobility.com/en/products/schlumpf-drive.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only two speeds though, like the HammerSchmidt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T16:15:09.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2012-11-27T16:46:47.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have very little experience regarding road bike fit, but I have asembled several mountain bikes, some of them for other people. I'm obviously happy with my setups, but also are my &quot;customers&quot; (not that it is a big deal, but I do it just because... I do not work at a shop or anything like that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have learned two very important concepts: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Bike fit does not only corresponds to your body sizes, but also personal preferences, riding style, technique, and personal goals about riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) For almost any frame, as long as it is not too unusual or too far from the apropriate size, component exchange makes a radical difference in bike fit and can give you a wide range of adjustability and even change the way you ride the same bike. Stems for example come in a wide range of angles and extensions, and most of them can be used pointing upward or downward. Handlebars have diferent widths, angles and curves. Seatposts have different setbacks and saddles may have railings that allow for wider or narrower range of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these two aspects, the same bike can be converted in a whole different vehicle, to the point that two identical frames can be perfectly adapted to different people and they will be non interchangeable (none of those people would be comfortable riding each other's bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that is a sum of arguments to reinforce that you should try as many diferent bikes as possible, surely you will find one that fits you for the purpose you need it, but, the ideal bike will fit you rather in the middle of it's adjustment possibilities, that way, if you buy that bike, you'll be able to further modify it by adjusting or exchanging smaller components only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is: the bike should fit you with the saddle near the center of the railings and using a seatpost with normal setback. The stem should be average length and have a modest angle. Also, if the fork has threadless steerer tube, it should be long enough so you can choose to put spacers above or bellow the stem. If the bike has quill type stem, it also should fit in the middle of its range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having that said, you can devote up to six months to find the sweet spot of your bike fit. Every time you ride, you may feel you need an adjustment, but you can overadjust, adjust too little or your adjustment may need to be compensated by adjusting something else... and the circle begins again... Patience gives big gains here, you'll get to know your bike so well that you will be completely comfortable riding it, and will be able to fine tune it in less time every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T16:53:15.287" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T16:53:15.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13377" CreationDate="2012-11-27T17:14:59.997" Score="4" ViewCount="5748" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike key is broken off inside the lock, I already remove the key from the lock but I have no backup key to unlock it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a very ordinary key, just like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1SJVF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to unlock my bike? Will the brick or a saw be helpful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5597" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T18:01:35.803" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T19:58:44.540" Title="My bike key is broken off inside the lock" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13376" CreationDate="2012-11-27T18:14:24.897" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it a cable lock like in the image? If so, bolt cutters. You'll be surprised and dismayed to see how easily you can cut a cable lock with a set of bolt cutters (maybe enough to invest in a better quality lock?) They're cheap, easy to find, and will get through most wire cable and some chain (depending on hardness.) They're also the go-to for most bike thieves, so don't be overly conspicuous about using them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CU652.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolt Cutters&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T18:14:24.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13376" CreationDate="2012-11-27T19:58:44.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you own a hacksaw but don't own bolt cutters, it only takes a few minutes to cut through the cable with a hacksaw. Just grip the cable with a pair of pliers, then use the hacksaw to cut the cable near the pliers - the hacksaw cuts through the individual cable strands quickly. When I lost my cable lock key, it took me less than 5 minutes to cut off my 3/8&quot;  cable lock with a hacksaw. Would probably have taken less time if I had someone else to hold the pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T19:58:44.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13347" CreationDate="2012-11-27T20:27:30.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is always the &lt;a href=&quot;http://lightfootcycles.com/products-overview/options-and-accessories/adaptations-for-special-needs/hand-crank-module/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hand crank&lt;/a&gt; option. I've ridden with a guy who was riding one of these and he was flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjwo8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T20:27:30.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13359" CreationDate="2012-11-27T20:43:06.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good answers all round, so I won't add to them. However, you can be 'right' according to the Highway Code all day long, but if White Van Man wants to be a plonker he'll be one...and you will &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; be on the receiving end. I've nearly been hit on one roundabout where people either don't look or don't care, and as I don't want the experience of feeling that I was perfectly correct...as I lay in my hospital bed...I simply get off and push it across the road at that roundabout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5399" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T20:43:06.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13322" CreationDate="2012-11-27T21:13:31.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm quite pleased with my 2012 Jamis Durango bike, I think it would fall into the $1000 range from the UK price I paid for it.  It's a hardtail, if that puts you off, but I personally feel I prefer that to the full-suspension bikes I've tried (admittedly cheaper, made of steel, heavier and crappier). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T21:13:31.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5274" CreationDate="2012-11-27T21:52:42.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poland-based company &quot;efneo&quot; is developing a three speed crankshaft gearbox: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.efneo.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.efneo.com/&lt;/a&gt;. This product will allegedly ship next year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T21:52:42.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13385" CreationDate="2012-11-27T21:56:43.593" Score="3" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following up on my &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/13245/213&quot;&gt;original wheel issues question&lt;/a&gt;, I went to see my local cycling store to tell them about my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to change rims and would like to have them support tires from 23 to 28mm. My frame is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_2_fx/#/us/en/model/details?url=us/en/bikes/town/fitness/fx/7_2_fx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hybrid one&lt;/a&gt;, perhaps a bit on the MTB-side, so I originally have a 17mm wide rim (supporting 25-38mm tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not have a lot of time but the guy said there were no rims to fit my needs and that at best I would be able to comfortably run on were 25mm tires...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was there some kind of misunderstanding between us or was he making a valid point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T22:31:45.583" Title="Switch to narrower rims on a hybrid?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13384" CreationDate="2012-11-27T22:30:49.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that concerning the rim there must have been a misunderstanding. You should be able to run a narrower rim, and simply adjust the brakes, unless there is a reach issue with the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the hubs on your wheels are MTB style, which have a different width than road hubs. You would still have the option of buying new rims and having them laced to your existing hubs if you are serious about running narrower tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said - as a long time recreational rider/commuter - I don't see much benefit from running any tires narrower than 28-25 unless you are planning on racing (which isn't really a target use for your bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T22:30:49.937" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2357" CreationDate="2012-11-27T22:36:47.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can apply some multi-purpose lubricant on the uppers and top seals. This will keep it from freezing up, help prevent it from getting damaged and will help keep moisture out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5598" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T12:52:46.783" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T12:52:46.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13365" CreationDate="2012-11-27T22:57:41.413" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard for us to speak with any certainty about your particular bike that's halfway around the earth. However, it doesn't sound like you'll be able to do it, 700c wheels are 29&quot; in diameter and your wheels are 28.5&quot; in diameter, so they may or may not be half an inch too big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T22:57:41.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13365" CreationDate="2012-11-28T02:18:12.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure of the exact size of your rims, as it doesn't appear that a 28.5 inch tire is mentioned anywhere in &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's rim sizing chart&lt;/a&gt;. However, there is mention of a 28 inch wheel which is used on &quot;Indian Rod-brake roadsters&quot;. The actual measurement for this rim is 635 mm. 700c wheels have a 622mm BSD.  This means that 700c road bike tires are smaller (assuming your bike has 700b tires mentioned on Sheldon's site).  Which means you may be able to fit the 700c rims on your bike, provided your brakes have enough reach.  Check the rim size by reading the numbers off the tires. There should be a number there like 635 or 700b if they do use the 28&quot; tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the question installing drops and a new drive train and brakes, that might present other problems. If this is the type of &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ri-z.html#roadster&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;roadster&lt;/a&gt; you are referring to, there's a couple things you'll have to look out for. Dropbars could be easily installed, but there's a lot of other stuff to consider. Is the rear &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hub spacing&lt;/a&gt; the right size to accommodate a wheel with a standard road cogset.  Are there proper mounts for caliper brakes.  The bike in the provided link has &quot;rod brakes&quot; that use rods instead of cables.  Can the bottom bracket be replaced with one that is compatible with a crankset you like.  It might just be easier to keep your eye out for a used road bike rather than try to convert a roadster into a road bike.  You'll have to buy quite a few new parts, and often the price of the parts far exceeds the price of a bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T02:53:28.083" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T02:53:28.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13391" CreationDate="2012-11-28T03:18:30.763" Score="13" ViewCount="7806" Body="&lt;p&gt;Switched over to my winter bike to keep my favorite away from the salt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I hang my bike by the front wheel for the winter?  Will be in my unheated storage-room/garage/shed.  My ownly real concern is the suspension.  I have a Rockshox XC 32 shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The average daily low in January should be about -15 C (5 F) the record low was -40 C (-40 F).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2012-12-09T04:51:56.030" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T15:47:12.297" Title="Can I store my mountain bike + suspension hanging from the front wheel for the winter (in an unheated garage)?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2012-11-28T06:16:08.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the others: your weight is not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; much of an issue for a decent quality well under $1k bike. I'm 175lbs now, but when I first started riding at 360lbs I rode a Specialized Big Hit Mountain bike. About $1,600 and overkill for the on-road riding I did. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now use a simple Trek Hybrid, and love it.. no clunky clumsy mountain bike.. (unless of course you are using it off road..  I  never did and never intended to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is don't overthink it. Find the weight limits. Some kind person listed Trek's above.. and there are other brands as well.. and go for it.. &lt;em&gt;Just move&lt;/em&gt; and watch the carbs and calories and the weight will &lt;em&gt;fall&lt;/em&gt; off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5599" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-12-09T01:28:09.660" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T01:28:09.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13389" CreationDate="2012-11-28T08:26:29.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/xc-32-tk&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;product page&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/AKEpKBkwf1phnUAwnVJbe9et_anfKPI8CGLBb-59pw0/mtime:1344376749/sites/default/files/techdocs/2013_rockshox_spc_rev_a_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/skwUf0ZGRyfSPE45L8PLolJf0lUgUfXW3Z2eVhG3cpI/mtime:1341959041/sites/default/files/gen_0000000000562_sram_warranty_-_rev_e_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;warranty&lt;/a&gt; do not mention anything about this. I think there should be no problem with storing the bike vertically or upside down. The oil will definitely stagnate at the top of the fork, on the seals. When you bring your bike to the ground you'll probably need to cycle the suspension 10 to 20 times in order to make the oil go down and re-lubricate everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the possibility of stress on the suspension, there will not be any problem, unless of course you hang yourself from the bike being upside down :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T08:26:29.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13409" CreationDate="2012-11-28T10:28:13.157" Score="2" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always ridden a Mountain Bike and lately I've lived with a strange question related to the tire I've been using. I use a pair of 26 x 1.95 CST Rush tires that are a great cost-benefit and found easily in my country for $20 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after a few minutes of riding on the road, it feels like the rear tire is being emptied. A few minutes after, this feeling passes and the trip remains normal, with great performance on the road and no complaints about the performance of the tire. This is normal behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5455" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T16:46:53.723" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T23:32:28.737" Title="MTB Tire performance" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13389" CreationDate="2012-11-28T12:41:32.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from the suspension: do you have hydraulic disc brakes?&#xA;Some of them have an open design that is prone to let air in the system if the bike isn't stored upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T12:41:32.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5274" CreationDate="2012-11-28T12:47:24.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There actually is a 18-Speed IG drive that is on the market: the &lt;a href=&quot;http://pinion.eu/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pinion drive&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only a few framebuilders incorporate this in their frames, but they do exist...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T12:47:24.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2357" CreationDate="2012-11-28T13:05:17.540" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I used to design and sell after market suspension parts for proflex bikes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three main strategies for the &quot;spring&quot; in fork suspension&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coil spring &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;elastomer stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inert gas, e.g. air or sometimes something fancier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays all springs are dampened somehow either by&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using oil, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;negative air (opposing force on the spring)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;friction (frequently used on cheaper elastomer stack forks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold temperatures effect oil and elastomers but have no real affect on the other types of springs and dampers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In sub 0'C temperatures oil can become much more viscous and can't dampen the shock properly (oil is forced through little holes to slow down the spring-back of the fork) and thus make the fork feel like it is not responding.  If you keep riding, the friction might heat up the oil a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elastomers are harder to heat up.  I know Proflex riders in the nineties used to pour boiling water on the elastomers before going out for a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5603" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T19:49:25.300" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T19:49:25.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13025" CreationDate="2012-11-28T13:12:10.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;check everything that has human contact because there is a force exerted on all thes eparts when stomping on pedals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedals, cranks, BB, chain, cassette, spokes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the seat post and seat rails&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bars and the stem connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the frame for cracks, especially if it is a full suspension bike.  when stomping on the pedal you may be exercising a small crack in the frame that is pinging -- check all the welds first - particularly round the BB area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth saying which bike frame it is and see whether it has a history of cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5603" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T13:12:10.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6434" CreationDate="2012-11-28T16:10:25.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;WD40 fixed my shifters, but it wasn't the best solution. The proper solution is to clean out the old grease and replace it with new grease. The reasons cited above don't properly explain the problem with WD40. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my experience: This problem occurred on three of my bike shifter levers (multiple bikes obviously). To fix them, I removed the shifter dust caps and hosed the shifter innards with copious amounts of WD40. The WD40 washed away the problem grease, and then my shifters worked. However, the shifters did not operate quietly and smoothly. Each time I shifted up or down, there was a loud and sudden SNAP and Jolt. Here is the problem: WD40 is indeed a great lubricant in certain applications, but not in a shifter lever. It is much more viscous than the grease that is packed into new shifter levers. I suspect that any kind of penetrating oil will have the same problem as WD40. To get my shifters working like new (with quite and smooth action), I used kerosene to wash out all the old grease and WD40. Then I repacked the lever with new grease. Now all is well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bloggers have claimed that WD40 leaves a gummy residue. This is false. WD40 does not leave a gummy residue and this is exactly why WD40 isn't good in a shifter leaver. The shifter lever needs a sticky, buttery, gummy grease--not the super smooth (too smooth) WD40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5604" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T16:10:25.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3897" CreationDate="2012-11-29T02:54:52.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a Brooks B-17 this year. I used their Proofide on the saddle as suggested. A light coating on the top, work it in, and buff it into the leather, and a coating on the under side of the saddle to protect from possible water flying up underneath from water off of the rear tire. This &quot;under-coating&quot; is only applied one time, and has little to do with the actual break-in of the saddle, just protection of the leather. Of course, saddle time is the only thing that will get your leather saddle broken in and more comfortable on the &quot;sit-bones.&quot; It took me about two months and 300 miles or so before I noticed the saddle becoming more comfortable at the end of a ride. This is my first leather saddle, and it seems to be getting better as it is used. I believe with care of the saddle and proper use of the Proofide, this Brooks leather saddle will be comfortable and last a long time!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T02:54:52.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-29T06:19:20.937" Score="-3" ViewCount="2326" Body="&lt;p&gt;All mountain or xc application, wet or dry condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5392" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T08:42:36.620" Title="The lightest 26&quot; mountain bike tire with minimum width of 2.3" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2012-11-29T22:05:06.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13414" CreationDate="2012-11-29T06:29:20.883" Score="13" ViewCount="6386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen people stop with one finger, two fingers or the whole hands on the levers. Is there a recommended number of fingers on the brake levers when stopping/anticipating an emergency stop? Do brake types or riding style (DH, road ..) affect this number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2012-11-29T16:11:51.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T22:28:31.190" Title="How many fingers on the brake lever?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13401" CreationDate="2012-11-29T07:39:09.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general the &lt;em&gt;fewer&lt;/em&gt; fingers on the brake lever the better, as it means more fingers can keep you holding on.  However in the real world, it depends on your grip strength and how powerful your brakes are, for how many fingers you can stop with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2012-11-29T17:08:47.657" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T17:08:47.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13400" CreationDate="2012-11-29T07:42:29.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty unlikely that anyone keeps a list of weights for all the available tyres by width.  Your best idea is to download the datasheets of brands/models you consider good enough (quality wise) and then compare the weights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T07:42:29.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13401" CreationDate="2012-11-29T08:33:18.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I look at it the other way - what's the required number of fingers to maintain a hold of the handle bars.  On a sealed road it's close to 0, leaving 4 for braking. In a serious rough/rocky track, it might take four, leaving none for the brakes (along with praying it smooths out soon).  Lose the handle bar, you lose brakes and steerage - there's only one way that ends, and you are a passenger. Going too fast with steerage - there is more than one possible outcome, which you have a degree of control over the outcome, and can usually minimize the damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off road, I typically use my outer fingers first - pinky + 1 is the minimum for useful braking, never more than pinky + 2.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="18479" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T03:51:26.740" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T03:51:26.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13400" CreationDate="2012-11-29T08:42:36.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings/components.php?type=mtbtyres&amp;amp;sortby=real&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;weight weenies&lt;/a&gt;the  Continental Speed King Supersonic is the lightest 2.3 or larger tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T08:42:36.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13978" CreationDate="2012-11-29T15:38:52.603" Score="7" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone experimented with using consumer 3D software to do &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computational_fluid_dynamics&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CFD&lt;/a&gt;-like aerodynamics simulations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I was thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Setup the bike on a trainer (with rider)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take a series photos, and plug them photos-&amp;gt;3D model software (something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.agisoft.ru/products/photoscan/standard/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;AgiSoft PhotoScan&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://superuser.com/a/30156/2084&quot;&gt;such as any of these free applications&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would hopefully give you a reasonable 3D model of the bike. Would likely require some cleanup, and possibly modelling of smaller elements if they are relevant (like spokes/chain)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bring the model into a 3D package with a fluid solver (e.g &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sidefx.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SideFX's Houdini&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Simulate fluid (air) flowing around the bike model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Somehow extract useful numbers, measurements or possible position-adjustments from the simulation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my limited knowledge of Houdini, I manage to make something kind of interesting looking, using it's fluid-solver's velocity visualiser:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7DoO9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Houdini's fluid velocity streamer visualisation&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What use could all this be? For example, could this method be used to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;see the impact various riding positions have on the flow of air (although I guess this is slightly hard to verify without a wind-tunnel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you could theoretically estimate CdA by seeing how much the object is pushed by the fluid. This could be verified relatively easily with a power-meter, e.g with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingpowermodels.com/CyclingAerodynamics.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chung Method&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could there be any worthwhile insights gained from this? Could it be any more effective than the more elegant method of using a power-meter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T03:21:22.757" Title="DIY computational fluid dynamics for aerodynamics?" Tags="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;technology&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13401" CreationDate="2012-11-29T16:55:18.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On both road and mountain bikes I tend to keep 1 finger ready to brake when I don't think I'm going to need to stop quickly, mostly for feathering my brakes to slow.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I think there is a more immediate need, such as going down a steep incline on road or technical singletrack section off-road, then I tend to use 2 fingers. This tends to be my default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, I'll use 3 for an emergency stop if I'm surprised, but most of the time 2 seems to be better for that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brakes may be easier to pull than others depending on the style and how well they are tuned.  Hydraulic disc brakes tend to be the easiest and require less effort (so I use one finger more often). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could just flip the whole gang the bird and use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fatcyclist.com/2012/02/08/my-case-for-middle-finger-braking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Middle finger braking&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-09-16T22:28:31.190" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T22:28:31.190" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13412" CreationDate="2012-11-29T23:25:22.937" Score="9" ViewCount="1189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious: why are some hub shells much larger diameter than others?  Is it an aesthetic consideration? Or are there cost/functionality tradeoffs?  Take for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=22880&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Dura-Ace hub&lt;/a&gt; -- pretty skinny.  Same for a classic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/7394371@N06/2650987612/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Campy record hub&lt;/a&gt;.  Compare to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=48695&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;much fatter Tiagra hub&lt;/a&gt;, or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.philwood.com/products/hubspgs/roadhubs.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phil Wood front hub&lt;/a&gt;.  I'm just talking standard hubs, not internal gears, powertaps, dynamos, etc.  [Addition after DR Hicks answer: nor I am I talking about hub flanges, but rather the barrel of the hub shell.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastEditorUserId="2611" LastEditDate="2012-11-30T05:49:47.090" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T22:44:13.237" Title="Why are hub shells such different diameters?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13392" CreationDate="2012-11-29T23:26:16.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I follow you exactly, but I ride road and dirt. More to it, I ride my mountain bike on the road on the way to the dirt. Here's my $0.02.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.panaracer.com/eng/products/mtb/xc.html#e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tires on my mountain bike&lt;/a&gt; are inflated to about 32-35 PSI (2.2-2.4 bars), and they have a lot of rolling resistance on asphalt. The sensation of riding on them is entirely different than my road bike tires, which are typically inflated to 105-110 psi (7.2-7.6 bars). The mountain bike tires feel like they are flat, even when I know they are not. I find myself looking down at them, wondering if they are still holding air. In my defense, on the mountain bike, I use tubes filled with a sealant, so it is possible for a puncture-- a thorn, maybe, or a piece of wire from a car tire-- to cause a slow leak. When you pull the thorn or wire out, there is a little puff of air that escapes, but the sealant usually closes the leak almost immediately. But it is not foolproof, and I can't shake the feeling the tires feel flat, even if I just aired them up before riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T23:26:16.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13427" CreationDate="2012-11-29T23:31:26.227" Score="3" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.philwood.com/products/hubspgs/rohldisc.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.philwood.com/products/hubspgs/rohldisc.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can figure it is for people with Rohloff-equipped touring bikes so that they have the same rotor bolt pattern on their front and rear wheels, to make spare parts management easier for long-distance tourers.  Is that it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T07:32:23.353" Title="What is this point of this Phil Wood &quot;Rohloff Disc Rotor Compatible Hub&quot;?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-07-03T02:27:29.177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13408" CreationDate="2012-11-30T01:08:13.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A smaller diameter hub is lighter (and likely cheaper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger diameter hub has several advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bearings can be larger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the spoke flange has a larger diameter, it also has a larger circumference, meaning that spoke holes are farther apart.  This reduces the stress on the spoke flange with heavily-loaded bikes, and also makes higher spoke counts practical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Related to 2, the spokes, for a given &quot;cross&quot;, leave the hub at a more oblique angle, meaning that the force of the spoke is pulling more tangentially and less radially.  This again reduces stress on the spoke flange and also increases the rigidity of the wheel against torque.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A non-obvious disadvantage of the larger hub, when it gets MUCH larger, is that, for 3 or 4 cross, the spoke arrives at the rim at a definite angle.  Unless the rim had been drilled at a matching angle, this increases the stress on the spoke where it enters the nipple, increasing the chance of spoke failure.  But this is mostly a problem with geared hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty much tradition to have larger diameter hubs on touring bikes and tandems.  Not sure to what extent this is a practical measure vs &quot;expectations&quot; -- the larger flange looks like its built to be rugged, while the small flange looks &quot;light on its feet&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T01:08:13.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6589" CreationDate="2012-11-30T03:35:29.367" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are situations, such as ice, or slick leafs covering the road surface that make application of the front brake dangerous.  Generally the front brake does all of the stopping because it does not lose traction until the bike flips; however,  in the aforementioned scenarios, the front wheel is likely to lose traction, pitching the bike and rider to the ground.  In those cases, it is safer to slow down on the rear wheel, where a skid does not cause a total loss of control.  Sheldon Brown definitely mentions this in the single speed section, where he recommends using both front and rear brakes on freewheeling bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5612" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T03:35:29.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13401" CreationDate="2012-11-30T06:14:44.123" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For downhill and all forms of trail riding (freeride, enduro, all mountain etc) the prefered way is &lt;strong&gt;1 finger (index) on each lever&lt;/strong&gt;. Anything else can be dangerous. If the brakes are not powerful enough for dealing with this then they either need fix or replacement to proper brakes for this type of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, riders position the levers closer to the stem (leaving 1 to 2 inches space between the grip and lever clamp) in order to enforce that only 1 finger can go on the lever. This also helps the finger pull the lever from its most powerful spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jML3C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T06:09:14.287" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T06:09:14.287" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6589" CreationDate="2012-11-30T13:34:11.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 70's I raced a track bike in the Velodrome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After moving away from Atlanta I put a front break on and used the bike as a road bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I had the brake lever, I very rarely used it as braking with your legs (toe clip/clipless pedals) is much more rewarding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-13T23:47:31.437" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T23:47:31.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="188" CreationDate="2012-11-30T14:05:19.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only compare the basic Shimano Acera and Deore (3x8) deraileurs to the Rohloff 14-speed hub, but these are my observations relating to efficiency. There's a distinction here between &lt;em&gt;pedalling efficiency&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;gear-shifting efficiency&lt;/em&gt;. I'm going to mention both as I don't know which one you meant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On the Rohloff hub&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the majority of gears it doesn't feel like there's any loss of pedalling power compared to a direct-drive fixed gear bike (subjective, I know). Gears 7 and 12 make some noise and seem a little less efficient.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing gears is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; impossible if significant force is on the drivechain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A short pedalling pause is required to shift gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible to change to/from any gear when stationary or coasting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gear inches change between gears is simple and predictable (roughly the same percentage per click).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On a derailer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A small amount of pedalling power seems to be lost to the jockey wheel. This is significant only if it gets dirty or one of the shifters is misaligned. Several gears are noisy/inefficient due to chain angle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing gears is &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; tricky if there a large force on the drive chain. It depends on which change is being made, some are really easy and smooth, others need some care.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No pause to fast, gentle pedalling is required to shift gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only possible to change gears when pedalling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two shifters means that shifting quickly to a predictable-length gear a skill that requires a bit of thought.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV, but I find the Rohloff to be efficient and simple to use. We use it on a tandem, so it may be that the pause needed when shifting is less distruptive on a solo bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I also expect that an experienced racer would be able to shift their high-spec gears much more quickly and efficiently than any hub gears and that this might mean that deraileurs are the only option for racing. That and the fact that you can't seem to connect them to brifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T14:05:19.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2012-11-30T14:35:01.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For feet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there are winter-specific shoes like Shimano MW80, Northwave Celsius etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keeping feet dry is extra-important. Even if slightly wet, they get cold so much quicker. There are weatherproof overshoes, there are waterproof socks--people say good things about SealSkinz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you need all of the body to be insulated and warm. In cold, body prioritizes bloodflow to vital internal organs over extremities. So if your core is losing warmth, body will work on that, and feet will get cold sooner. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="679" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T14:35:01.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="188" CreationDate="2012-11-30T14:46:48.637" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 2001, Kyle and Berto published a comparison of the mechanical efficiency of several configurations of derailleur and internally-geared hubs in Human Power, which you can find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp52-2001.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Among the systems tested were a Shimano MTB derailleur system, a Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub, the Shimano 7-speed Nexus hub, and the 14-speed Rohloff hub. MTB derailleur systems are (now) known to be less efficient (more lossy) in terms of power transmission than &quot;road bike&quot; derailleur systems. In particular, note fig. 12 in the cited link, which compares average efficiency at three different levels of power for the internally-geared and MTB derailleur system. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&quot;&gt;Spicer (2000)&lt;/a&gt; has measured the power transmission efficiency of an ideal chain driven system at about 98%, so that is what you would expect the maximum efficiency to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QknrM.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QknrM.png&quot; alt=&quot;Figure 12 of Kyle and Berto&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:32:15.777" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:32:15.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13421" CreationDate="2012-12-01T00:20:35.567" Score="10" ViewCount="30454" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I disassembled my current fixed-gear, and reassembled all the parts in another frame, which I am considering to purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current owner of the frame warned me that it might be too big for me, and I agree with him. Even though, I think it has good cost-benefit, so I decided to do a test-ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed the final geometry and rideability was pretty good, and since the frame has a long headtube (which I desire) I guess the inseam problem might not be so important considering the main goal is randonneuring, where &quot;riding&quot; characteristics are much more important than &quot;mounting and dismounting&quot; characteristics. Most probably the bike will receive a drop handlebar, even though I like flat bars a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a photo of the current set. There are 6cm of seatpost visible, and I might want to lower an aditional 1cm.&#xA;The main reason I want to somewhat stubbornly keep the frame is that I liked riding it, didn't see any major problem except for a slight touch of the upper seatstays between the thighs, but that tends to disappear since I felt the need to put the saddle a bit more forewards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am asking is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Even considering the frameset is ridiculously larger than I would&#xA;  typically choose, if I like riding the bike, is there any problem that&#xA;  I'm not considering, a reason NOT to keep the frameset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 1,88cm (6'3&quot;) tall, and have used 56cm bikes, this one is 64cm (seat tube, bbc to top).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any insight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2yTiC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T20:59:22.653" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T20:59:22.653" Title="How can I tell if the size of a bike is right for me?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13419" CreationDate="2012-12-01T03:02:33.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some say that if you can't have less than a &quot;fist-full&quot; of seatpost visible (&gt;10 cm), the bike is probably too small. This is probably not a bad rule of thumb to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would post pictures of you sitting on the bike, with the drive-side pedal at 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, and 6 o'clock, that would be the best. It will be clear, then, if this is too big for you. Alternatively you can get a verdict from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this fit computer&lt;/a&gt;. Even if you've never tried it, and you're a seasoned rider, the output is worth seeing. They give you three different fits: a competitive fit, an &quot;Eddy&quot; fit, and a &quot;French&quot; fit. In my experience, it's a great guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBitle48_LM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I have seen folks who ride bikes that are &quot;too big&quot; for them&lt;/a&gt;, and it can be done. Personally, I ride a bike which some would say is too big, but it works for me, and to-date I have about 1400 miles on that bike. When I am on the saddle, my toes just touch the ground. It all depends on how &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; geometry meshes with the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T03:02:33.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13419" CreationDate="2012-12-01T12:57:38.863" Score="11" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Frame fit&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Primarily, a bike fits if you can position pedals, saddle and handlebars relative to each other so that they match your body's proportions. Secondarily, when these contact have been set, other frame parameters should fall into place so that the riding characteristics are as desired. That includes e.g. toe clip overlap, stand over height, bottom bracket height, heel/panniers clearance, steering geometry, or that an extremely short or long stem gives a weird steering balance. Depending on what you use the bike for, the importance of these parameters varies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Does &quot;frame size&quot; equal &quot;seat tube length&quot;?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you consider frame fit as putting the contact points in the right spots, the length and angle of the seat tube is one of the less important dimensions. By choosing the right seat post length and setback, it is possible to put the saddle in the right position relative to the pedals (or, simplified, the bottom bracket). Generally, on most frames, most riders can put the saddle in the right position relative to the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the use of the bike stand over height (or clearance) is more (MTB) or less (road) important. If you want a certain stand over clearance, of course this limits the frame size to a certain amount. This is easy to determine: With the correct tires and wheels, the height of the top tube should be lower than the length of your inseam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;How to determine &quot;frame size&quot; instead&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The critical point is often if you can put your handlebars of choice in the right spot, too. One thing to consider here is that drop handlebars have a significantly longer reach than straight ones. This is because the normal hand position is on or behind the brake lever hoods with a drop bar, and not on the straight section next to the stem eye. If one does not want to resort to extremely short or long stems, a frame usually only allows for a good fit with either drop or straight bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working backwards from the hand position through handlebars and a normal sized stem (ca. 8-12cm on a classic frame like this), one ends up at a certain position where the top of the head tube should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Stack and reach&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corresponding frame dimensions are the vertical and horizontal distances of the head tube upper end from the bottom bracket, called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/thinking-and-processes/geometry-and-fit.html&quot;&gt;stack and reach&lt;/a&gt;. Unfortunately especially frame reach is quite difficult to measure on a frame without complicated measurement setups (or a good picture exactly from the side without perspective distortions). Therefore many tend to use top tube length as an alternative to reach, and (&quot;virtual&quot;) seat tube length instead of stack. One should be careful though: The position of the top of the head tube not only depends on seat tube and top tube lengths, but also on the seat tube angle (which can be even harder to measure than reach).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to find out your needs regarding stack and reach is to measure a bike which fits you well and has the relevant handlebars setup. One way to do this is to take a photo exactly from the side and from quite far away, and measure in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What does this mean for you?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say, stand over clearance does not bother you with this frame, so the seat tube length is very likely ok. On the picture there is also plenty of room to move the saddle forwards, in the worst case with a zero setback seat post. So the saddle probably position fits you. Good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am more concerned about whether the frame reach is too long, when changing to a drop bar. But as far as I know, the classic Raleigh road geometries do not have overly long reach, and the stem shown on your picture is way longer than what I would consider aesthetically pleasing on a frame like this (especially with quite little seat post to be seen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing more about the frame and your fit preferences it is very hard to advise if it will fit you in this regard. The fact that the frame was built with a classic quill stem in mind, but has a threadless fork today, does not make it easier: It may be that you can't rise the bars enough with an ahead stem (and the fork already being cut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest thing would be to just try putting a drop bar on the frame (ideally with an adjustable stem temporarily). With a fixed gear that should be easy to do. Ride and adjust, and you will feel if it fits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What else?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from all that I think that the average 56cm frame is quite a bit too small for the average 1.88m male (horizontal top tube, or &quot;virtual seat tube length&quot; assumed). I am 1.83m myself and usually start looking around what is labelled as 58cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that the fork is not original. Ask the seller if the original still exists. It probably is a threaded fork, which allows for higher building quill stems. And it probably looks nicer, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally: I have never heard about problems with the thighs rubbing on the seat stays before...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastEditorUserId="5570" LastEditDate="2012-12-01T14:29:47.650" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T14:29:47.650" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13419" CreationDate="2012-12-01T16:00:06.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since Bhell posted an excelent answer that deserves feedback, I am posting this &quot;answer&quot; of mine with some observations. I think it could help people with the same doubts, in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, I enjoyed the pragmatic approach to bike fitting, instead of a somewhat questionable numerology I've been seeing around lately. Also, the rationale starts from the problem up, and not from a canned solution down. Now let's go piece by piece, considering this one frameset:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Primarily, a bike fits if you can position pedals, saddle and&#xA;  handlebars relative to each other so that they match your body's&#xA;  proportions. (...) That includes e.g. toe clip overlap, stand over&#xA;  height, bottom bracket height, heel/panniers clearance, steering&#xA;  geometry, or that an extremely short or long stem gives a weird&#xA;  steering balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You got it right from the start: when I went over the bike to ride, and after some minor adjustments (none of them at the extreme of adjustment range), I felt the bike almost exactely like the previous one, except for a slightly long reach, which I still don't know is due to too much saddle setback or too long stem. Nothing to be too much concerned, since I rode at most 2km and the immediate feeling was very soothing and familiar compared to the previous 56cm bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About other characteristics you mentioned, there is no overlap (plenty of clearance, actually, which is good for randonneuring with fenders), BB height was fine (quite nice fixed-gear cornering), pannier clearance is yet better (44cm chainstays instead of the vanilla 42cm of my other utility bikes, good for fenders in the rear, too), and the steering balance is stable without being too slow or hard to quick-dodge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The critical point is often if you can put your handlebars of choice&#xA;  in the right spot, too. (...) normal hand position is on or behind the&#xA;  brake lever hoods with a drop bar, and not on the straight section&#xA;  next to the stem eye [like a flat bar]. If one does not want to resort&#xA;  to extremely short or long stems, a frame usually only allows for a&#xA;  good fit with either drop or straight bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about this, too. The stem on the photo is 135mm horizontally (center to center), and although it has helped me along the years with smaller bikes, specially when mounted pointing up, I think this bike should have a smaller stem if I put a flat bar, and a yet smaller one if I put drops. Since the current stem is long and I feel the bike only slightly longer than needed, I think there is room for adjustment without resorting to extreme stem dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(...) the classic Raleigh road geometries do not have overly long&#xA;  reach, and the stem shown on your picture is way longer than what I&#xA;  would consider aesthetically pleasing on a frame like this (especially&#xA;  with quite little seat post to be seen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't looked at it from this angle, but this sounds compelling. I have to admit that I plan to inflict some &quot;oldschool-performance&quot; upon my fellow riders, since the tend to look down at &quot;old big steel stuff&quot; from their aeroplastics bikes. For a better effect, the classic non-slope lugged kit can be complete with corresponding short stem and short post...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that the fork is not original. Ask the seller if the&#xA;  original still exists. It probably is a threaded fork, which allows&#xA;  for higher building quill stems. And it probably looks nicer, too.&#xA;  (...) The fact that the frame was built with a classic quill stem in&#xA;  mind, but has a threadless fork today, does not make it easier: It may&#xA;  be that you can't rise the bars enough with an ahead stem (and the&#xA;  fork already being cut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gotcha! The fork is the original threaded one, and the ahead stem is mounted to a threadless-to-quill adapter. The end result is very firm and has quite acceptable looks. By the way, the fork is PERFECT because it is curved, sturdy, has fender eyelets and gives the frameset a very nice handling (not to mention the fact that frame and fork were designed for one another by a reputable manufacturer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I think that the average 56cm frame is quite a bit too small for the&#xA;  average 1.88m male (horizontal top tube, or &quot;virtual seat tube length&quot;&#xA;  assumed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can live with my other 56cm frame becaused I mounted it fixed-gear for training, so a more sportive position is fine if I go with good speed and not too long. For touring, randonneuring or even commuting with more gear in the winter, I have had serious problems with sore hands and feeling too cramped over the bike &quot;in the long run&quot;, so that's why I looked for a larger frame, although I didn't have something THAT large in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I decided to keep the frame, and here goes the summary of the story, which includes the insights provided in Bhell's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why I wanted a new frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To have a more relaxed geometry than I currently have with bikes that are relatively small for me;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To have a bike faster than a city bike but not so stripped down as a fixie, allowing to achieve relatively high cruise speeds for long times and some comfort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What interests me in this frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has good design (a classic road frame from a reputable manufacturer), good construction (4130 lugged chromoly tubing, fender brazeons) and good value (relatively low price due to usage signs which don't interfere with function).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's high head tube brings the upper headset cup much closer to what I have been trying to get lately (I've been replacing my other bikes' stems and handlebars because with age coming I starter to feel they were too low).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was potentially problematic with this frame (and prompted me to write the question):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Ride feel&quot; could be cumbersome because some unexpected effect of larger geometry and size;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its reach might be too long (although I already wanted longer reach);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its inseam might be too high;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The correct seat height might expose too little seatpost, thus making it hard to put some taller saddles like sprung Brooks and the like (not really a plan, but one never knows).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why I KEPT the frame after all:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Bottom-Bracked contact point (the only fixed-position one) has a good height from the ground, not so low as to hit the pedals neither so high as to make it hard to put the foot on the ground;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Seat contact point position could be naturally found with a good range of adjustment in every direction (both horizontally and vertically);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Handlebar position got almost right (perhaps a bit too long) with a flat handlebar and a relatively long stem, which makes me think I could either shorten the stem a bit and keep the flat bar or shorten the stem even more and put a drop;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I decide to put a drop, I'll get a good upright position in the flats, a nice cruising position in the hoods, and a usable (not too low) position in the drops. Although the bike begs for this, I am particularly fond of flat bars because I have always ridden mountain bikes, and the brake levers being always at hand is a thing I value very much, specially while riding in a fast tight pack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The interference problems (top tube against crotch, inner thighs rubbing the upper seatstays a bit) didn't bother me after I quickly got used to them. Actually, it is cozy to have a bike so much &quot;closer&quot; to me (I'm not trying to be vulgar here, you know...).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bottom line, it was fundamental to have the points of view of everyone who answered or commented. I suspected that here in StackExchange people would be more traditional and classically oriented, and the vast majority supported the idea that big is not a problem if you don't make it into a problem. That also, reinforced a perception I have, that all this hype about smaller-frame-size-possible due to weight or responsiveness or center of gravity or whatever is way too much exagerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help, and if I have some useful additional feedback I'll post it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T16:00:06.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-01T20:22:20.227" Score="1" ViewCount="16148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new bike off of BikesDirect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2_IX.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2_IX.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, no matter what I do, I can't seem to get the front derailleur to do anything. The bike came in on the smallest cog, and no matter what I do, I can't shift it to even the middle one. I've tried changing the tension, changing the limit screws, etc. but I can't get it to move the chain. The derailleur itself moves when I shift, but it doesn't seem to move enough. It doesn't even come close to getting to the largest cog. I've watched countless videos and I'm out of ideas, so I was hoping if anyone could give me any suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I find it weird that for my rear gears, whenever I shift either using the lever or the thumb button, it takes me one gear up or down depending on what I press. But for the front derailleur, the lever can shift it one at a time but the thumb button always shifts it all the way back to the smallest cog not going through the middle (and is very stiff). I was wondering if this was normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is brand new so I don't think it has any mud or dirt stuck inside, and I've tried my best to align the derailleur cage parallel to the chain and the derailleur slightly above the largest cog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5619" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T18:25:30.853" Title="Front Derailleur Not Working" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13424" CreationDate="2012-12-01T22:39:40.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you looked at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/2200/FD-2203/SI_5GF0B_001_En_v1_m56577569830625446.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;instructions for the derailleur&lt;/a&gt;? If not, it might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike is a recent purchase, have you &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesdirect.com/aboutus.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;contacted BD&lt;/a&gt;? I'm not sure they will be able to help (how recent is a &quot;recent purchase?&quot;), but you have nothing to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your other alternative would be to go with the bike to a local bike shop, and let them repair it. It won't be free, in all likelihood, but you'll get results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T22:39:40.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13410" CreationDate="2012-12-02T07:32:23.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They have a 135mm version as well. That should be meant to replace the (rear) Rohloff hub when converting a Rohloff drive train to fixed gear/single speed, while keeping the brake disk. Some people may want to do that at least temporarily, and Rohloff compatible frames (without chain tensioner) are by design a good base for fixed gear/single speed conversion by justs swapping out the back wheel. I can see the appeal of this for people who like single speed MTBs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the spare parts advantage you mention I can't really see the point in the similar front wheel hub either (yet the Keirin 110mm one). It probably exists because Phil Wood sometimes lists products which are basically combinations of different options they &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; make if somebody asked for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T07:32:23.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9815" CreationDate="2012-12-02T14:17:56.680" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copied this from &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20110518232501/http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/health-are-you-sitting-comfortably-30179&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a BikeRadar article&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to measure your own sit bones&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the measure you really want is between the centres of your ischial tuberosities – the pointy lower parts of your pelvic bone on either side. Many bike dealers have a pad that you can sit on to measure this distance, but you can do it at home too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a piece of aluminium kitchen foil and place it on a carpeted stair. Sit on the foil, lean forward a bit to approximate your riding position, then lift your feet. This should leave a good impression of your rear in the foil, and you can measure between the two points of deepest impression to get your sit bone width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;‘Narrow’ sit bone width would be 100mm or less, medium 100-130mm, wide over 130mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A saddle’s width is measured from edge to edge across the top, and Specialized recommends a 130mm saddle width for narrow, 143mm for medium and 155mm for wide. These ﬁgures should translate approximately across other ranges, with all other factors taken into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5624" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2020-07-28T19:22:20.043" LastActivityDate="2020-07-28T19:22:20.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-03T01:48:54.803" Score="3" ViewCount="1158" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I have a 2011 Trek 3700 (no disc brakes) and just this year have gotten into riding mountain bike trails and would like to have a bike better suited for doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to keep the budget under $1000 (using Trek Mamba as a target) but when I'm looking for parts online, I seem to come across the most expensive options for each part. I'm a fan of Shimano but willing to use other brands if the price is less but the products are still comparable to one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for specifics for what I'm going to be using it on, it'll be public mountain bike trails (off-road, of course) so nothing too demanding but still find a need for disc brakes and given my height, 6'6&quot; roughly, a 29er seems to be the better option and would prefer a hardtail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless a budget of $1000 is just unreasonable for a DIY....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastEditorUserId="5628" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T02:08:25.193" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T05:05:07.823" Title="Would like to custom-build a bike but I'm not sure on what parts to buy" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2012-12-03T01:56:48.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that the reason for so few of the recumbents and velomobiles is due to the cost factor, with the velomobiles being quite a bit out of the realm of expense practicality for most of us. You have to live in an area where you can ride any time and any place you please to justify an expenditure of around $5,000 plus. The recumbents would follow closely except they are a bit less expensive. From what I've seen, I'd just as soon be riding in a much higher and visible position, than pratcially being horizontal 2 feet off of the road surface. I'd just as soon see the traffic ahead and have them see me too. Prevents a lot of close calls with vehicles that will win the collision battle every time. And then there are the dogs that think you're an even easier challenge when you're looking up at them! I know they are much more comfortable than a standard bicycle, but I take a lot of comfort in knowing I have a much better chance against traffic and dogs when I'm up off of the ground! There are some aches and pains that go with biking as the years roll by, but they heal more quickly than cuts and bruises and don't leave scars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T01:56:48.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13430" CreationDate="2012-12-03T02:11:19.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upgrading parts is likely to be the most expensive way to get the bike you want. Depending where you are, second hand is the way to get a good bike for the lowest $$$, provided you are careful. The next least expensive option is to go for an end of season new bike. In the end, it costs a lot less if you use the proceeds from selling your old bike rather than upgrading it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;29'ers  (I have one), give quite a different ride to a 26. Try one out to see if you like it, however if you stay hardtail, I think it's a good way to go. If you are a heavy 6'6, consider the 29'r has longer spokes and the wheels are therefore weaker than a 26 (all else the same). As I am under 70kg (150lb), its not something I have to worry about. Also think about the shock - is it stiff enough for your weight, although the only thing that makes a significant difference at this level of bike is more money, and unless you are over 250lb you should be OK (Trek states 136kg max fro their bikes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mamba looks like a reasonable fit for you in terms of budget and the riding you propose - it will hold up with OK quality parts, I imagine a bit heavier than ideal, but it won't be a dog either. Trek make good bikes and have a good reputation (where I live) for support - which is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T02:11:19.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3046" CreationDate="2012-12-03T02:43:47.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an implicit question about why master links are much more popular in 9 speed (and 10 speed, and no doubt 11 speed too) that I'll answer.  It's actually fairly challenging to get a 9 speed chain joined with a chain tool such that it both runs smoothly and is reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 9 speed chain it's possible, with practice, to accomplish it, but I don't think anybody on the planet who manufactures 10 or 11 speed chain would suggest even trying it.  The hub shell that the cassette fits onto is the same width for 8, 9, 10, and 11 speed systems.  This necessarily means that the chain gets narrower and narrower as the number of speeds goes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem for somebody trying to join a chain with a chain tool is that the tolerances get so small that it's hard to hit the sweet spot between a chain that's too stiff and a chain that comes apart the first time you stand in the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A master link is manufactured to tight tolerances so that it hits this sweet spot reliably, saving the mechanic and rider a great deal of irritation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5349" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T02:43:47.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-03T09:30:33.113" Score="1" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a basic wheel set for a hack bike project.  The rear wheel has a single speed cog, and a dangly adjuster thingy - maybe 2 inches long.  What is that for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5629" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T19:44:45.103" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T19:44:45.103" Title="Rear hub-adjuster thing - What does it do?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13436" CreationDate="2012-12-03T09:54:09.717" Score="3" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a B&amp;amp;M ? brand (german make) rear bike 'standlight', removed the capacitor as I found it annoying when switching to a battery. Used a 6x cell AA 1,2v pack for awhile, with no issue. Upgraded all the wiring to silicon, and put in a 0,8AHr Yuasa gel lead acid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason I choose a 12v lead acid instead of a 6v.  ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front headlight, which was a xenon lamp design with a voltage regulator circuit that I replaced with a LED inside the reflector, same headlamp control circuit, seems to like it. Good light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the rear red 'standlight' got dimmer, and dimmer. And now barely lights up at all. I think it was not designed to operate with such a continuous peak voltage around 12v and wondered what you thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5630" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T15:12:52.073" Title="voltage of lighting system" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;&lt;taillight&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13435" CreationDate="2012-12-03T11:44:15.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You most probably damaged the rear light and are risking damage the voltage regulator on the front, too, since the huge majority of generator hubs provides 6 Volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the regulator on the front is sophisticated enough, perhaps it is using just enough current and voltage to feed the light, but I think most circuits use a Zener diode, that actually make the excess voltage to &quot;leak&quot;. This is not big issue with generators, whose alternating current waveforms just go above 6V during very short fractions of a wave, but with a battery, it's possible that it is working a bit like &quot;short circuited&quot;. If the front light is over-heating, that most probably might be happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the back light, the light-emitting elements of leds are very sensitive to higher-than-normal voltages, and tend to &quot;burn&quot; due to overheating and chemical/physical damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I advise you to check the current voltage of your system, and switch back to a lower voltage if that is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T11:44:15.543" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13479" CreationDate="2012-12-03T11:47:36.767" Score="5" ViewCount="7610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have flipped over my hub to try out the fixed wheel for a change, I am finding it very difficult to keep balanced while attempting to ride backwards!  Does anyone have some advice or is there any trick to learning how to go backwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5255" LastActivityDate="2019-10-20T15:24:14.253" Title="Fixed-gear bike: How to ride backwards?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13441" CreationDate="2012-12-03T11:53:38.060" Score="5" ViewCount="24246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a single speed bike with a flip-flop hub and recently I decided to try out the fixed side.   When testing it out in the car-park I was applying backpressure to brake and found sometimes the mechanism slipping.  I tried and recreated it a few times but I could not tell whether it was something in the machine slipping or just the tire slipping on the ground.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for the tire to slip on the ground a little bit?  All I did was to loosen the bolts, flip the wheel over and swap chain, and tighten up the bolts again.  Is there any way it's possible to do the conversion 'wrong' or have slipping in the crank/hub?  I don't want to ride the bike on the road like this if it could be unsafe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pWSmo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5255" LastEditorUserId="5255" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T04:28:01.997" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T04:28:01.997" Title="Fixed gear: slipping" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13454" CreationDate="2012-12-03T12:47:41.717" Score="12" ViewCount="245489" Body="&lt;p&gt;My new bike has these thin tires with a type of valve I haven't usedbefore. I searched online and found out it's called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presta_valve&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Presta valve&lt;/a&gt;, and it's pretty common and popular. I'm finding it annoying and fiddly and don't know how to use it properly. I have a floor pump, and I know the valves and pump are fine, because the guy in the shop had no trouble using the same one. But after reading online and watching YouTube videos I still can't figure out how to do it properly!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I'm trying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotate wheel so that the pump can comfortably reach the valve (guides online say the valve should be at 12 o'clock position, but I can't do that because the hose on the pump isn't long enough)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove valve cap, unscrew thingy in valve, and tap it a little - a jet of air shoots out. OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push pump onto valve. This is where I get into trouble...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to get the attachment onto the valve in the right way. I'm pushing it on with the elbow lever thingy down, and then pulling the lever up as you can see in the pictures, to make the attachment grip onto the valve.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, either it flops around loose and leaks air out the sides (when I push it on gently), or sometimes it goes on but then the tire doesn't seem to inflate any, the pump just gets stiff really quickly as if the valve was blocked - then I remove the attachment and it goes pffffft like all the pressure was just backed up in the hose and not actually going into the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to pump up the tire eventually, but it took me about an hour of stuffing around and my &quot;project manager&quot; got angry, because I was supposed to be in the kitchen making her a salad, not mucking around in the garage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time I got it on properly I had to deflate the tire completely, and even then it was difficult because with the tire completely deflated the stem of the valve just pushed into the rim. Surely this is not normal? What's the trick of attaching the darned thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how can I just check the pressure? When I attach the thing I expect the guage to jump up and show me what pressure it's at, but it just stays at 0.  The tires say on the side to inflate to 110&amp;nbsp;psi (7.5&amp;nbsp;atm), but my pump only goes up to 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WlSgL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQbMl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5255" LastEditorUserId="3639" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T03:05:46.733" LastActivityDate="2018-03-10T22:45:40.687" Title="How to inflate a tire with a Presta valve?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;pump&gt;&lt;presta&gt;&lt;valves&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13439" CreationDate="2012-12-03T13:09:59.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pump appears to have a valve which is supposed to switch automatically between Presta and Schrader as needed. In my experience, these valve don't always work. I have a similar pump where the valve has become stuck, and I can only use it for inflating Schrader valves now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is at the root of your problem as well, among many alternatives, you can 1) buy a new pump, or 2) get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/presta-schrader.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Presta--&gt;Schrader adapter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess would be that if you operate the pump off the bicycle tire, air should come out the Schrader valve side. This will show you in which mode the valve is operating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T13:09:59.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13438" CreationDate="2012-12-03T13:22:59.383" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is absolutely possible to skid the back wheel, but you really need to be deliberate about it to do it. In this case, however, it sounds like you were applying back pressure to slow down and noticed something surprising, so it was not likely to be the tire skidding. It was probably the cog slightly loosening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to apply any back-pressure at all, you must have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_tp-z.html#trackhub&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;properly installed lockring&lt;/a&gt; screwed on after the cog. A lockring is a small device that has a reversed thread, so that it prevents the cog from unscrewing when reverse pressure is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4fks.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lockring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best practice is to ride hard for a while without applying &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; backpressure to make sure the cog is seated tightly into its threads, then tighten the lockring to make it hard flat against the cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Track cyclists sometimes skip the lockring because they usually don't apply much backpressure, but if you're riding on the street and using the pedals to brake, you need a lockring and it needs to be tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6MfLkwo__s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a youtube video&lt;/a&gt;. There are others. I don't agree with the video about using locktite (use grease instead). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T00:55:23.733" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T00:55:23.733" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13439" CreationDate="2012-12-03T13:24:51.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Remove valve cap, unscrew thingy in valve, and tap it a little - a jet of air shoots out. OK.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've got that right.  If you have the proper pump, and the chuck is working properly, then simply pushing the chuck on and flipping the lever should do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, when you press the chuck on far enough a little button in the middle of the chuck will press the &quot;thingy&quot; down to let air out and let you read the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that your chuck is poorly designed (or not really &quot;stem agnostic&quot;) and you'd do better with a screw-on adapter.  (And some chuck designs require changing out the innards to do Presta valves.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It really isn't that difficult and fussy with the right pump and the right technique.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T13:24:51.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13434" CreationDate="2012-12-03T13:34:53.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a coaster brake (operated by pedalling backwards), if this is the case then the dangly thing is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/coaster-brakes.html#reaction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reaction arm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T13:34:53.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13401" CreationDate="2012-12-03T14:56:25.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throwing in some anecdotal stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had been fine riding XC with two fingers in the lever (middle+index) but when I began riding DH, I often experienced grip loss of hand / forearm fatigue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somehow I discovered that I was way more comfortable using just the middle finger on the brakes. It seems to be that my index fingers are much better gripping the handlebars than actuating the lever. I supposed that lever placement had a role, so I moved the levers towards the stem so I could actuate them with my index finger. The result: I was able to apply the brakes fairly well, but my fatigue problems worsened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reverted the setup to actuate the lever with the middle finger. May be just my case, but it happens to be that my middle finger is just stronger applying the brakes. This leaves me  with 3 finger in the handlebar: pinky, annular and index, which provides me with enough grip for DH riding. Now I use this technique even in XC or commuting. Results more relaxed to me, less fatigue at the end of a ride or practice session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, conclusion after the long fairy tale: **Try different positions at least for a ride or two, the perfect hand grip for you may not be in book! **&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:58:34.613" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:58:34.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13438" CreationDate="2012-12-03T15:30:12.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fixed gear mechanism is very simple - the cog is wound onto its thread so that when you pedal forward you are tightening the screw (as well as moving the bike forward). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opposite is also true, when you apply backward pressure, you're not just stopping, you're trying to loosen the screw. Most often you won't budge the cog, but it is possible that a lot of backward pressure (e.g. slowing down or tricks like track stands) and without a way to inhibit the cog loosening, the cog will loosen (and indeed come off).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I imagine is happening here. A loosening of the cog and lack of connection between your leg direction and the wheel's motion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did nothing wrong by just flipping the wheel and using the other side. The key is the lockring - this attaches to the hub but on a contra-thread, so you tighten it when the drive cog is tight, but backward pressure doesn't loosen it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is safety. I used to ride without a lockring, but after a few instances of the cog coming loose, I relented - it is certainly safer on the road and for the sake of a few dollars/points/local currency units, there's no real downside to a lockring (apart from being a little fiddly to remove, but you don't do that very often). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T15:30:12.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13434" CreationDate="2012-12-03T17:43:33.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dangly adjuster thing is most likely the toggle chain for an internally geared hub!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oiDci.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3 speed hub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tension on that chain shifts the hub internally (rather than through a derailleur and cogset). Bike hacks with three-speed hubs are quite common, but get very complicated. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is some information on Sturmey Archer hubs courtesy of Sheldon Brown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a picture of the toggle chain and rod which is attached to the inside of the hub. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SufBb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T17:43:33.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13449" CreationDate="2012-12-03T18:22:36.780" Score="11" ViewCount="5096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride through the winter in the Pacific North West and get soaked about every other ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the best way you've found to dry your shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that stuffing them with wadded up newspaper works well to draw the moisture out, but if I don't swap the paper out every couple of hours, I just get damp newspaper that smells of mildew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ideal solution would be passive - in that I would set the shoes up and then just grab the dry shoes a day later for my next ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T05:46:58.767" Title="What are good ways to dry shoes?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2012-12-03T18:28:15.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of products that are referenced as &quot;boot dryers&quot; which would serve your purpose. They are commonly used for ski/snowboard boots but will dry any shoe out efficiently. Know that using these will stink up a whole room like a gym locker room, so use them with discretion in your home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T18:28:15.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2012-12-03T19:06:30.227" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a theoretical point of view, there are some possible methods to take water out of a fabric object, such as a shoe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Replacing&quot; the water for another, faster drying liquid and letting it evaporate;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squeezing the water out directly by compression and twisting (not usually adviseable);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Force field&quot; like gravity and centrifugation;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capilary action (which is what the newspaper does);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thermal action (sun, heater);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind action (free-air, fan).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last two increase the rate of evaporation, the first by increasing the internal energy of water, the later by reducing the relative humidity of the air layer close to the fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then (always theoretically) one possible way to dry a shoe quickly would be to force-circulate warm, dry air inside a newspaper filled shoe that has been previously centrifugated/squeezed after being rinsed in warm water with a bit of alchohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem that still persists is how to actually implement this air heating and circulation without a complicated device or combination of devices...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use to put newspaper inside as you described, but for the first three stuffings, I squeeze firmly (stepping over if necessary) so that most the moisture is mechanically removed. Then I put extra, dry newspaper and leave the shoes hanging in the open air. Unfortunately, depending on weather conditions, this not always work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T19:06:30.227" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2012-12-03T20:27:30.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should acquire a good dryer, the kind with the tray insert that you can set shoes on. Easiest way to dry your shoes every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're in Corvallis though, so there's it's a safe bet for me to wonder if you're in a dorm or apartment that doesn't have a washer and dryer. In this case what I do is prop my wet shoes in front of a space heater ( obviously, making sure that they're not so close that they get too hot ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T20:27:30.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2012-12-03T22:32:03.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My solution is to wear cycling sandals (I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/shoes/mtb/product.-code-SH-SD66.html&quot;&gt;Shimano SD-66&lt;/a&gt;) in combination with neoprene shoe covers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that I'm still toasty warm even when it's very wet and down to 0C/32F. Then when I finish the ride, I can hang up the shoe covers and let the shoes air out and everything generally gets pretty dry for the ride home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus riding in sandals in summer is awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T22:32:03.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13408" CreationDate="2012-12-03T22:44:13.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect the reason may be aesthetic. As you've noticed, the cheaper/entry level hubs have large barrels and the more expensive versions have narrower barrels. It must be hard to upsell a customer to a more expensive hub... there's not much to differentiate them apart from the looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, the narrow barrels look sleek and fast to me and I might be prepared to drop a few more $$ on them if I'm putting them on a fast road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T22:44:13.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13323" CreationDate="2012-12-04T00:32:10.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As your Scott is a modern bike, I'd be inclined to agree with some of the other answers here and say that I don't think you will require any modifications to your frame if you switch from Shimano to Campagnolo. There are some areas which are not strictly frame related where you may need to be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're switching to an EPS groupset then it's likely that your frame won't have specific mounts or routing for the electronic cabling. However, in my experience you've often got options to run the cables externally quite neatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already mentioned, you will need to either change your wheels (or the freehub body if possible on your current set) so that they can take a Campagnolo specific cassette. If your frame was much older, I'd also suggest that you check the spacing between the dropouts to ensure there was sufficient room. One area I have run into that's worth checking, is that if you intend to use an 11t sprocket at the rear with a compact chainset (or triple) that there is sufficient practical space between the chain and the chainstay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be mindful of the bottom bracket setup on the R2 and make sure that any new Campagnolo system is compatible with it, or that you have a relevant converter if required. The same goes for the front mech, make sure your new one is the same (band or braze on) as the existing Shimano one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, not a problem for the R2, but if your frame was setup for longer reach brake calipers, I'd also suggest that you measure the existing ones before you order, to ensure that the new ones have sufficient depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt or if you want extra reassurance, I'd check in with your local Scott dealer to get their confirmation, they may also be able to offer advice on subtle changes they make when setting up for Campagnolo which will make your transition smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5633" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T00:32:10.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13439" CreationDate="2012-12-04T01:29:01.127" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those valve stems are too short for those deep deep rims you've got on there. You can tell just from the photos that the valve stem isn't sticking out far enough from the rim for the pump to fit all the way on it. Hence, it's not contacting the valve enough for you to inflate your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T01:29:01.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13437" CreationDate="2012-12-04T01:31:30.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get some clipless pedals. Then, practice until you feel like you've been practicing all day, then practice some more. Continue to practice until you're successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T01:31:30.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2012-12-04T02:42:48.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I really had this problem a lot I'd consider buying a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Original-PEET-Sportsman-Boot-Dryer&amp;amp;i=433519&amp;amp;r=view&amp;amp;aID=502D2&amp;amp;cvsfa=2586&amp;amp;cvsfe=2&amp;amp;cvsfhu=343333353139&amp;amp;s_kwcid=goobase_goobase_filler&amp;amp;cID=GSHOP_433519&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boot dryer&lt;/a&gt;.  It blows air through the boot/shoe to dry it out, and can also be used to dry helmet and gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T02:42:48.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13401" CreationDate="2012-12-04T03:06:05.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under normal riding situations on paved roads, I always reach for the brake levers with at least two fingers. Just in case you hit a bump and a finger is &quot;jarred&quot; off of the lever, or a finger just slips off of the lever because of sweating, you still have one finger left on the brake lever to exert some braking force to a wheel. Of course, each individual usually will seek whatever feels most comfortable to them. Keeping control is the main thing. On a downhill, you should only need really &quot;light&quot; pressure on the brakes to stay under control. I still use my two fingers for the safety aspect, but &quot;feather&quot; the brakes using one dominant finger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T03:06:05.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13424" CreationDate="2012-12-04T03:26:28.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the height of the front derailleur may be too low. It may not be picking the chain up high enough to get onto the large chainring. You need about three millimeters of clearance above the big chainring when the derailleur is trying to bring the chain over and lift it onto the large chain ring. The derailleur itself would need to be loosened on the seat tube and raised slightly. Also make sure the front derailleur is parallel with the chain. Here is a link that shows good photos of the front derailleur adjustment process, and how to measure the clearance needed to get onto the larger chainring. Hope this may help you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-a-Front-Bicycle-Derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-a-Front-Bicycle-Derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorDisplayName="user4975" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T05:31:53.037" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T05:31:53.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13514" CreationDate="2012-12-04T03:27:27.737" Score="2" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a picture of a seatpost that I'd like to buy but cannot find after much browsing. Unfortunately I no longer have a photo but have this information about it. Can someone identify it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black. Not sure if it was carbon or not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Had a stylized &quot;C&quot; on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was described as a Campagnolo C-Record seatpost (although I have never seen any Campy seatpost like this before).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traditional round (possibly 25mm) post which transitioned to an aero profile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle rail attachment was the most distinguishing feature. It was composed of what appeared to be disks with a concave furrow around their perimeter (like a clothline pulley) on either side of the post. The bottom of the saddle rails rested on this. Then there was some other type of attachment (was hard to see detail) on the upper side of each saddle rail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a thing of beauty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5632" LastEditorUserId="5632" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T18:38:28.503" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T18:00:01.430" Title="What Seatpost Is This?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13459" CreationDate="2012-12-04T03:36:39.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a good photo of a C Record post, &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=96db8eb6-682f-4db7-87af-17d687641766&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you had a knock off C-Record post. The head you describe is different, and the C logo was sometimes used to infer Campy, when a product was not Campy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logo in the linked pic is what should be on a C Record post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T03:36:39.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2012-12-04T04:21:11.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certainly many reasons why a minority product in a community stays in its niche. Some reasons are universal, others are product/topic-specific. &#xA;In the case of recumbents it might help to understand what the community sees as the &lt;em&gt;normal use case for a bicycle&lt;/em&gt;. Two main use cases come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A) &lt;em&gt;Short utility trips through the urban areas&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(B) &lt;em&gt;Sport-oriented cycling rather through the countryside&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these use cases we can discuss the disadvantages of recumbents. There are several. Let's start with &lt;em&gt;use case (A)&lt;/em&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the city riders often want to be able to jump kerbs. This is very hard or even impossible on recumbents while rather easy on up-rights.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For safety reasons Riders want to have an overview over traffic in order to adjust their riding accordingly. This is hard on a recumbent: You are on eye level with normal car drivers and below the level of SUV drivers this makes it difficult to judge traffic in congested conditions. The higher position of up-rights makes it easier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here disadvantages for &lt;em&gt;use case (B)&lt;/em&gt;:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When going for a ride &quot;racing-style&quot; riders orientate themselves often at cycle races as reported by the media. The very most of these competitions are held under UCI rules and do not allow recumbents.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Riders who train for races themselves obviously want to use similar machines as they will use in the competition.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: The mentioned disadvantages are strongly dependent on the use cases. If we look at other use cases the disadvantages of recumbents can become marginal and some exciting advantages take over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an avid recumbent cyclist myself for nearly two decades I have obviously a different use case: &lt;em&gt;Longer commutes in urban areas and long-distance cycling in the country-side&lt;/em&gt;. Here the big advantages of recumbents like a much better view of the scenery or a more comfortable seating position come quickly into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5634" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T04:21:11.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2012-12-04T07:52:45.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With regard to your question over potential weight savings, I quickly weighed the kit that I normally use to give a comparison. The mini pump that I carry from Lezyne comes in at 83g (has some subtle modifications to stop it rattling); whereas the two unbrnaded 16g CO2 cannisters that I carry come in at 118g and require a chuck to use which is another 21g. So about 56g heavier all in. Not that significant; but not in the favour of using CO2 unless you carry only one cannister and then you'll make the a 6g saving over the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a full frame pump for comparison weight wise, but I'd expect it to come in quite a bit heavier than the mini one I carry. That said, I've been able to inflate a road tyre to the correct pressure using it, even if it took quite a long time to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when repairing a puncture it's often useful to partially inflate the inner tube, both to find the puncture and to give a replacement some shape and form. Doing this with CO2 is likely to be quite hard given the limited inflation control that most units provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5633" LastEditorUserId="5633" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T08:00:18.423" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T08:00:18.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13439" CreationDate="2012-12-04T08:16:37.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inside the Presta pump head there will be a peg behind a rubber washer, which depresses the valve on the stem which is engaged when you move the lever into the elevated position. At the same time, typically a set of jaws will clamp onto the body of the stem holding it in place. It sounds very much as if your pump isn't able to activate the valve sufficiently to break the seal, and therefore when you pump, the air is backing up against the rubber washer rather than inflating the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above, this could be an artifact of the exposed stem not being long enough and you should look to: use either a chuck which doesn't require as much stem to be exposed; to replace the inner tube with one with a longer valve; or use a valve extender (that leaves the existing core intact), or if the tube has a replaceable core to screw in a valve extender (like those available from Continental).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, I find it useful when pumps aren't functioning as I'd expect them to, is to use an inner tube with a known working valve without it being installed in a tyre. This will remove the potential for insufficient stem being exposed to be a limiting factor and permit the pump to be exercised to ensure it is functioning correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5633" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T08:16:37.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13389" CreationDate="2012-12-04T09:09:14.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My main concern in hanging by the front wheel is the rim. Rims / spokes are not made for &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a permanent force &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in this direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on other parameters like the weight of the bike and the rim / spoke type, I would consider hanging the bike by the frame instead of the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T09:09:14.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2012-12-04T10:34:45.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I ride into the office I use the hair driers in the changing room to kickstart the drying process and then, during the day, I leave them on a ventilation grid close to my desk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use the wadded up newspaper method - but I find that the stream of (dry) air is more effective if available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T10:34:45.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13482" CreationDate="2012-12-04T11:12:03.390" Score="3" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Challenge Seiran SL (the 26&quot; lightweight version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.challengebikes.com/seiran_detail.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Challenge Seiran detail&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;). For some short multidays trips I need to attach some form of bags. What are the available bags that will fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYGSw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Challenge Seiran SL&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYGSw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Full size picture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an other recumbent I already have a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.com/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=recumbentbag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ortlieb recumbent bags&lt;/a&gt; but they attach to a rear rack and I do not see how I could attach a rack to my Seiran… Or is it possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The Seiran SL is not pictured on the web page. You can see it in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.challengebikes.com/brochures.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chanllenge Product Guide&lt;/a&gt; on page 18.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5571" LastEditorUserId="5571" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T09:37:08.673" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T20:53:21.433" Title="What bags will fit a Challenge Seiran SL?" Tags="&lt;bags&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13470" CreationDate="2012-12-04T13:45:01.870" Score="1" ViewCount="13491" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aUPYz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I don't want to take all the credit for this bike, but I'm pretty sure Trek must've lovingly had me in mind when they made this. I mean come on. This bike is awesome. Buying their beach cruiser was one of the best decisions I've ever made. Now I've got my eye on this puppy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So speaking of the beach cruiser, I really liked that it braked when you pedaled backward. I also liked the single gear splendor. I'd rather be climbing in a single gear at 3mph than zooming past all the ladies in top gear. More time to ask them whether you're supposed to floss before or after you brush. Just kidding. But seriously. The answer is &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back on point, can you modify a bike to be single gear and do that backward pedal brake thing? Think Trek would do this for me if I requested it with my order? How hard is it going to be to custom mod my rig with tools and stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5637" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2012-12-17T18:52:45.820" LastActivityDate="2017-03-04T17:44:44.157" Title="How to convert a multi-speed bike to single-speed with coaster brake?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13469" CreationDate="2012-12-04T14:02:56.300" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The desired conversion is possible, but maybe Trek won't do it as a &quot;default&quot; service. You could consider going to the local bike shop and trade some of the bike parts (specially the gearing system) for a coaster brake wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike is like the one in the photo, you need to replace the rear hub, and get rid of the cogset, the derailer and the twist-shifter. You can do this at home if you have some mechanical skils, but replacing the hub and relacing the spokes is not very simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you're so chatty with the lovely ladies as you are when asking questions on the internet, they sure get a lot of talk! ;o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: As Freiheit has correctly pointed, when you put a single cog and get rid of the derailer, something must be added to compensate for the almost inevitable chain slack. I suggest a tensioner like this, of DMR brand (with a bolt, to be placed in a fixed position, not a spring):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGzqh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MORE EDIT!!!!&#xA;As people correctly pointed out, you CANNOT use a chain tensioner if you use a coaster brake. So the solutions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a chain tensioner but not a coaster brake;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a magic combination of chainring and cog size (very difficult, might not give you a good gear ratio, cannot compensate for chain slack;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an adaptor (usually not the most robust solution, but ok for a cruiser if you really want the coaster brake):&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JkYhs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T12:26:07.323" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T12:26:07.323" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13472" CreationDate="2012-12-04T15:16:04.290" Score="8" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my commutes I often see cyclists ride quite fast between car lanes (for example when stopped at traffic lights, they get to the front to the lights before it gets green so they don't have to wait till all the cars start moving).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there is 1m-1.5m, it is quite easy, but how does one master the width of the bike?&#xA;Every time, I am on the brakes feeling I am &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; close to the cars' mirrors but on the same time I see cyclists ride by without even slowing down, even motorbikes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If even motorbikes get in that space, I must be doing something wrong, so how does one get conscious of the actual width of the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T15:00:30.197" Title="Commuting between car lanes" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13471" CreationDate="2012-12-04T15:29:15.627" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;One key factor is your handlebar width. This might seem obvious but I have a friend who recently bought a road bike with drop bars to replace a mountain bike as it has much narrower handler bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have mountain bike handle bars I recommend putting your hands right at the edge, that way your brain will best gauge whether your bike will fit through, since your bikes width is also your width, and your brain knows you pretty well! This little trick is what cats use to judge spaces knowing their whiskers are the width of their body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T15:29:15.627" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4476" CreationDate="2012-12-04T15:38:48.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability to 'layer' up or down is important if you want to be comfortable. Especially if your temperature won't  be consistent - if you cycle some where hilly your temperature will fluctuate quite a bit. If you have unsettled weather too this will cause the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride in a technical t-shirt with a waterproof jacket on top. The jacket has a mesh section on the back covered by a 'flap', which can be buttoned down (if raining), or left to flap about a bit and keep you ventilated.&#xA;The cuffs have velcro straps which when tightened stop air flowing into the arms.&#xA;The front zip is pretty self explanatory.&#xA;The jacket can be folded up and the fits into its own back pocket (inside out), and then velcro attached onto the top bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Altogether this kind of jacket allows you to cycle in multiple climates, and most importantly you can 'change climates' very quickly, without change outfit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunny and warm: jacket on bike&#xA;wet and warm: jacket on, cuffs open, back closed&#xA;wet and cold: jacket on, cuffs and back closed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, get one jacket which is very flexible for purpose. Allowing you to adjust your outfit to maintain a level of comfort through varying conditions.&#xA;I use this set up on 200 kms without fail, and spending max 2 mins of the bike to adjust (folding up jacket to velcro onto bar if it's suddenly gotten hot and sunny).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T15:38:48.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2012-12-04T15:43:49.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found booties (shoe covers) to be pretty useless if you're cycling over 10 km. Rain will inevitably get in.&#xA;I have a pair of SPD shoes with removable in-soles. SPD shoes generally have a plastic base which doesn't soak through like fabric materials. Since the insole can be taken out (when you arrive at your office in morning or wherever) the 'wet' parts of the shoe are separated so dry quicker.&#xA;Wear a good thick pair of socks and pack another for your days work to put on when you arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T23:25:35.097" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T23:25:35.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2012-12-04T16:07:34.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dryguy.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dry Guy&lt;/a&gt; Boot dryer which I put my shoes on after I get home to dry them out. The heat really isn't needed, just set the timer to air out my shoes and gloves.  They also make a portable one that can be used with a 12-volt car power that works with just one pair of shoes at a time. This is also useful after a long ride where you've been sweating a lot to keep them dry and prevent them from smelling.  I use this thing after every ride to keep my shoes fresh, I just set the timer appropriately depending on how moist the shoes are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYkpR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYkpR.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;lt;img src=&amp;quot;https://dryguy.com/images/DryGuy/drying/WideBody/widebody_1.jpg&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably DIY something like this easily with a large computer case fan and some PVC pipe if you're so inclined, but you need to make sure it's designed so that the water doesn't drip directly on to the fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't use a boot dryer, you can fill the shoe cavity with newspaper and that should suck out some of the moisture.  You'll want to squeeze as much out as you can in to the first packing and then re-pack the shoes.  You'll probably need to re-pack a few times over the course of a day to get them really dry.  Placing them in front of a fan or by a heater will help speed up this process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T05:46:58.767" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T05:46:58.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10143" CreationDate="2012-12-04T16:11:15.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Savanni makes a good point, the answer depends on your weight distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else that will effect it is your tires. The fatter tires you have the more they will absorb (bumps and the like), and prevent these bumps vibrating up to your pannier rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point. You can get seat post racks (second link)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;made popular by offroad tourers riding dual suspension bikes which can't accommodate the traditional back rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is depending on your bike geometry (traditional touring diamond I guess?) you can get a pannier for this space, this is very common with long distance audaxers wanting to stay ultralight on 200-1200km rides: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ulCoK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://i.stack.imgur.com/ulCoK.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;These used to be odd home made contraptions but are quite common now. They have two advantages, they don't need a metal pannier rack to clip onto so are a lighter solution, and are attached with straps which aren't affected by all the bumps in riding surface that a pannier rack would be (not to mention your pannier clips).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've toured with 15 kg (30 lbs?) on the back rack and 25 kg + (50 lbs?) spread across front and back off road on 35mm tires: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3uafV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://i.stack.imgur.com/3uafV.jpg&lt;/a&gt; using normal racks and had no problem what so ever. Just use your brain and don't go speeding along at 30+ km/h on bumpy sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T16:11:15.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13468" CreationDate="2012-12-04T16:47:18.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike in your picture has a rack on the back no? If you can't fit the low riding ortlieb recumbants (due to their length) I'd recommend ortlieb front panniers (smaller than their rear counterparts and therefore more likely to fit that small rack. Also all Ortlieb bags have adjustable clips (so you can make them fit smaller/bigger racks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T16:47:18.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2012-12-04T17:33:00.187" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adjust the min pin on your rear dérailleur so that if you wanted you could lower your gear past the lowest cassette ring throwing your chain into the tiny gap between the wheel hub/spokes and cassette. This acts as an immediate hand brake since that space isn't actually wide enough for the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside of this is your chain hub and spokes are trashed, but if both your brakes are gone this is the only guaranteed way to stop. You must also be careful not to go down to many gears if you rig your bike this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another warning, this is very effective so hold on before doing it or you'll go over the handle bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T17:33:00.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13437" CreationDate="2012-12-04T17:36:15.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are designed in a way that makes them very stable going forward, at the cost of being unbelievably unstable while riding backwards. The most common fixed-gear geometry (inspired in track racing) doesn't help a lot. As a comparison, BMX is a modality where riders usually ride backwards in half-pipes, but the bike geometry is very different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I tried to do (before giving up), and what I have seen people doing, is to try to ride backwards IN CIRCLES, perhaps lowering the saddle a bit to a more relaxed position. I don't think the clipless or toestraps are key here, but a lower gear ratio might be very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you perform some circle attempts, you can try to switch sides. Trying to do it very slow aids to gain inside as to which movement you actually have to do, since this movement is very counterintuitive: when you are leaning SLIGHTLY to one side, you have to point the handlebar the opposite way, so that the bike will go under you again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could manage to go some 4 meters back when I was trying often, but with almost no control over the direction the bike was going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a good video to start (with interesting links on the sidebar) is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/2CSUBgq0t8U?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T17:36:15.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13424" CreationDate="2012-12-04T18:25:30.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's very stiff to shift I recommend lubricating it with some grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using the gear cable does cause the dérailleur to move but not enough to shift the gears it's most likely a case of 'wrong tension', either too much or not enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the appropriate hex key and free the gear cable to the front&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then 'shift' the  front gears down to the lowest gear (if you have a road bike with drop bar compliant shifters, this will most probably be the little 'button' to the right of the shifter, on the left side of the handlebar)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;now manually push the dérailleur over hand (the big hunk of metal on a spring which the chain feeds through) so that it is lined up above the smallest cog on the front gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;holding the dérailleur in position, tighten up the gear cable again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T18:25:30.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9815" CreationDate="2012-12-04T18:59:42.367" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used this method which worked well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fill a large size ziploc bag with icing sugar. Icing sugar's fine texture means that it binds together when compressed. This is what we want - it will hold the shape of your buttprint after you get up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Close the bag making sure to squeeze out the air.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place on hard chair.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sit while assuming the degree of forward rotation that you intend to cycle with. The distance between your sit bones change depending on this rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get up cleanly and measure the distance between the depressions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5632" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T18:59:42.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13468" CreationDate="2012-12-04T19:35:45.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.challengebikes.com/brochures.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Challenge Bikes product guide&lt;/a&gt;, it looks like the Seiran SL is not intended to be able to have any kind of rack on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you should talk to the dealer you bought the bike from. It looks to me like replacing the lightweight carbon seat with the aluminum seat option might make it possible to mount the Day Rack or Voyager Rack...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would 15&amp;ndash;30 liters be enough capacity? There's various bags designed to hang from the top of a recumbent seat, which would probably work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/us/recumbent-seat-bag.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkel Recumbent Seat Bag&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.radicaldesign.nl/en/products/recumbent-bags/rear-bags/universal-aero&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Radical Design Universal Aero&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.radicaldesign.nl/en/products/recumbent-bags/rear-bags/rackbag-l&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Radical Design Rackbag L&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.radicaldesign.nl/en/which-panniers-fit-my-recumbent/challenge-seiran-sl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to a page from the Radical Design site which lists bags that will fit the Seiran SL. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T20:53:21.433" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T20:53:21.433" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13516" CreationDate="2012-12-04T19:38:15.183" Score="4" ViewCount="1295" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has SRam X3 gears and a grip shifter. I'd like to change for a trigger shifter. In the bike shop where I bought it, they say that I can change for a Shimano shifter (they don't have SRam). I've read that they aren' compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it true? How can I discover if they are compatible before changing the shifter and the grip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5639" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T17:00:52.253" Title="Can I use Shimano trigger shifter with my X3 SRam gears?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-04T22:17:39.193" Score="2" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's supposed to be on the outer casing (according to the shimano manual) but the Tricross has internal cable routing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know where it is? I really don't see it but I might be being a bit simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4987" LastEditorUserId="4987" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T22:24:12.927" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T11:29:27.317" Title="Where is the Tricross Sora front derailleur barrel adjuster" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;adjustment-screw&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13437" CreationDate="2012-12-04T22:24:06.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experiences with going backwards(fakie) on BMX, the best way to learn is to find a small bank or quarter pipe, ride up it, and come back down backwards. This will give you that initial speed so you don't fall over right away. I imagine it'd be kind of similar on a fixed gear, expect that you can actually gain more speed by pedaling backwards. I think the roll out would be similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T22:24:06.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13487" CreationDate="2012-12-05T00:13:02.717" Score="20" ViewCount="9493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a recurrent problem when riding in high humidity climate, either with hot or cool weather: after some hours riding, my nipples (in the chest, not in the wheel :o) get very sore from friction against the shirt's fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that it has to do with salty sweat, the waving-flag movement of the shirt fabric against the skin, and perhaps with cold causing nipple erection, further increasing the friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more experient friend of mine has reported the same recurring problem, having even seen people bleeding from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I ask if anyone else has suffered from this problem, and how I could expect to solve it. I am considering to take along some band-aids, but I think there could be some preventive measure before the band-aids be needed, in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any insight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2019-08-13T10:02:16.473" Title="How to avoid sore nipples while riding" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13486" CreationDate="2012-12-05T00:23:02.493" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens to runners more than bikers but is the same thing you describe... friction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done band-aids, tape and even special products (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00473REDW&quot;&gt;Nipguards&lt;/a&gt;) made for covering just the nipple area but the best remedy I've found is compression clothing. Even in the middle of summer, I will wear some skin tight &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.underarmour.com/shop/us/en/mens-heatgear-full-t/pid1201166-600&quot;&gt;Under Armour&lt;/a&gt; shirt. Heat Gear (odd naming, but actually cools the skin too) in the summer just to prevent friction between cycling jersey and the nipples. I'll switch to their cold gear during the winter, but always wear something skin tight under my upper layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T00:23:02.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10140" CreationDate="2012-12-05T04:01:07.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/centuryelite_x_ti.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;titanium Motobecane&lt;/a&gt; is slightly above your budget range, but it's a very nice bike. It can accommodate a rear rack, and can be outfitted for touring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0xJT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Motobecane titanium Century Elite touring bicycle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same retailer offers several different models at a lower cost, including &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/gran_turismo.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one with a steel frame&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T04:01:07.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13430" CreationDate="2012-12-05T05:05:07.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens to be my particular area of expertise! ;) I have built several bikes buying part by part achieving competitive machines at much as half the price of the competitor! But let's start by not misleading anyone, there is no such thing as a free meal, everything needs a compromise. In my case, I sacrificed looks, trends and time to finally obtain my sweet rides, but it has totally worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you have to define a strategy, so, decide &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; you want a custom built bike. In this case you have stated that you have budget limitations, but for someone else it could be performance, medical or physiological reasons, vanity, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your motivation is budget (the same as mine) you have to decide what compromises you are willing to make. Here are my tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Every year the component makers release the latest gadgets, and they are always the best performers ever known. Stop there... actually, the performance upgrade from one year component to the next, is almost always negligible, so you are good with last year's derailleur, for example, or even older. This is a great way of obtaining brand new good and cheap (kinda) components, since they are not fashionable anymore their prices drop, sometimes very significantly. You can even get them from perfectly reputable online sellers, you just have to accept that you wont have the latest toys.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is great to unpack a shiny, brand new component and install it into your bike, but the &quot;new smell&quot; wont make you any faster/stronger (lets face it, there is a placebo effect). There is a reliable way of obtaining good parts by buying OEM (Original equipment manufacturer) parts. OEM parts are components that come in brand new bikes, but they are removed for some reason, for example, maybe the buyer of the bike wanted something else and the shop sells the unpacked, never used item that was left. You will get a perfectly working, branded component, with &quot;marks of installation&quot; but otherwise new piece. You won't get original packaging nor instruction manuals, but for most reputable brands they're obtainable online. (At least Shimano user and installation manuals are available online). Besides, if you really know what you are doing, you do not need all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You don't need top performing parts everywhere (you are on a budget, aren't you?) so you can pick where you want the best performing parts. For example, in my DH bike, I wanted good suspension and brakes, but could sacrifice drive train, so I went with a reputable frame and fork, reputable brakes but choose 8 speed drive train with mixed parts from reputable brands to unheard good enough brands that had available at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You don't need top of the line parts either. For instance, Shimano has Deore, Deore LX, Deore XT and Saint lines of components (Excuse me if I'm forgetting other MTB product lines). Each has its performance level, but even the least expensive of these, is very good. (personally I use mostly Deore). Take into account why one is better than other. Sometimes it is because of weight savings and in order to make lighter parts they are often made of more expensive materials and with more complicated processes, the price difference can be very significant compared to the performance upgrade obtained. But if what you want is to practice, to simply ride, i.e. you are not racing (for money) you are perfectly fine with the (little) heavier options, or the not so polished ones. Remember top of the line parts are often used by professional riders, who get paid for winning... on the other hand, you and me pay for riding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you are riding, you may be fine with just 8x3 speed drive train (8 cogs in the rear, 3 chainrings in the front). The price difference going from 8 to 9 cogs can be quite big, and you have to change the shifters also. Now there is even 10 cogs for mountain bike, which can be even more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The other sacrifice you can do is time. If you don't expect to obtain your components right away, you can wait until you find a good sale on the item you want. You will have to work constantly watching prices on line and on local stores. Meanwhile you keep saving money so you gradually increase your budget.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you can also buy only the frame and keep as much as you can from your current bike. When you get the new frame, check which parts fit and decide which ones you will keep and which ones you have to change/want to upgrade. The shopping list for components just got a lot shorter. Usually you can keep fork, stem, handlebar, grips, shifters, derailleurs, bottom bracket, pedals and tires. Crankset, cassette and chain should be inspected to determine if they are still usable. If they still have some usable life, you can safely shift them to the new bike, and remember to change them in the same date you would if still in the previous bike.&#xA; In your case you mention disk brakes, so these should be in your shopping list, along with either a disk compatible wheelset (easier way) or disk compatible hubs and spokes(to re build the wheelset on your own or take it to a bike shop). If you choose cable actuated disk brakes, you can keep the levers, since linear pull (a.k.a. V-Brakes) brake levers are compatible. Otherwhise you need hydraulic levers and hoses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final step, after assembling the new bike, is to sell the remnant parts from the old one, thus recovering part of the budget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you can delay your spending, which can be easier on your wallet or may allow you to gradually increase your budget so you can upgrade components as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As previously said, everything is a sacrifice. You may not get a magazine cover worthy bike right away, but if your patience allows it, you'll end up with a bike that is unique, comfortable, excellent performer and you will feel perfectly fine about riding it! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T05:05:07.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13437" CreationDate="2012-12-05T09:42:31.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flip it back to non-fixed and get the hang of rolling backwards (perhaps down a gentle slope) first. As others have said, the bike is designed for going forwards, so backwards is a real skill. So you've got two major problems - steering and locomotion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you drive? Almost all non-4x4 vehicles are front-wheel steered and reversing any distance in a straight line is similarly tricky. If you've driven a rear-wheel steered vehicle, perhaps a tractor or a forked lift, you'll know that they can be &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; maneuverable in tight spaces but quite tricky to keep in a straight line when going forwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is though all about practice. 10000 hours to be world class! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you can roll backwards unpowered, then try the rolling backwards with the fixed, you'll at least have conquered the steering problem, now you can mix in the locomotion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T09:42:31.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13486" CreationDate="2012-12-05T10:45:22.277" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this problem when running (it's known as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fissure_of_the_nipple&quot;&gt;jogger's nipple&lt;/a&gt;). It's caused by friction when your top rubs against your nipples, moisture from sweat (or rain) tends to make it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wearing technical clothing that draws moisture away from your skin will help, along with some kind of barrier cream. Personally, I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bodyglide.com/&quot;&gt;bodyglide&lt;/a&gt; as I find it easy to apply, but vaseline or nappy rash cream should work just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T10:45:22.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13484" CreationDate="2012-12-05T11:29:27.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With out a photo it is hard to tell. Jagwire does make  inline adjusters. They have different types, that adjust differently. Check the Jagwire website or ask at the LBS where you got the bike for assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T11:29:27.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13497" CreationDate="2012-12-05T12:31:10.200" Score="1" ViewCount="11533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get my front derailleur to stop rubbing in the high gears, smallest sprockets. To do this I am attempting to follow this guide by shimano:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SORA/SI_5GR0A_001/SI_5GR0A_001_En_v1_m56577569830614926.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SORA/SI_5GR0A_001/SI_5GR0A_001_En_v1_m56577569830614926.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says that when in the largest chainring it should be possible to adjust the derailleur so that it is 0-0.5mm aways from the largest chainring on the side furthest away from the bike. This however is not possible and seems to have been set by the lbs simply by putting the cable at very high tension to push it over so it doesn't rub. I believe this may be slipping or stretching and causing the rub to return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the correct way to do this? Is this normal or is the derailleur being dysfunctional?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4987" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T13:57:17.390" Title="Sora front derailleur set up" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13486" CreationDate="2012-12-05T13:21:26.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't wear 100% cotton, it's a sponge for moisture and soaks up your sweat.  They become heavy with moisture and this causes them to rub and chafe the skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily find lots of t-shirts that are 50/50 cotton &amp;amp; polyester blend which helps a lot, they can still be a problem, but I find they stay dryer longer.  I tend to really like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.americanapparel.net/tr401w.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;american apparel tri-blend track shirts&lt;/a&gt; for a better alternative (you can find cheaper tri-blend track shirts on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005WUPE2W&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;amazon&lt;/a&gt; for about 1/2 the price). You could also get technical gear that is either 100% synthetic, including compression clothing (like under armor).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my favorite is wool.  I have a couple wool t-shirts that I wear all the time since they breathe well and tend not to get saturated easily. There's a reason cycling jersey's used to be made primarily out of wool. It is also one of the best base layers to use in the winter since even if it does get wet, it will still be insulating, as opposed to many synthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T13:21:26.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13494" CreationDate="2012-12-05T13:57:17.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow what a horrible guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tightening the gear cable while in the highest front gear is very tough and will only hurt your fingers. I recommend putting the front dérailleur into the lowest gear and tightening it that way. This is much easier!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your specific problem, in all my experience you can never not get 'rubbing' (if by rubbing you mean the chain running through the dérailleur over hang and brushing it). &#xA;However, you will notice that the brushing varies depending on whether the back gears are high or low. Since this varies the angle at which the chain 'points' to the back gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the solution:&#xA;Since you will always have brushing (a tiny bit at least), you just seek to minimise it. Put the back gears in the most used gear &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; tuning the front dérailleur.&#xA;For example on my touring bike I'm usually in my third highest gear at the back, unless going up hills or firing down them. So I tighten my front dérailleur cable while the back gear is as such, this means I only get front gear rubbing when the back gear is perhaps in the very low gears, thus causing the chain to 'go backwards' at a different angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to spend a ridiculous ton of money on a fancy dérailleur you can mitigate this, but there's really no need.&#xA;For mountain bikes the most common gear back gear is the lower one. If you're not sure which  you've used most, clean the cassette of a bike you've used well, and look at the wear on each  cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T13:57:17.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13471" CreationDate="2012-12-05T15:00:30.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is just experience. When I ride on a different bike, even with 1cm wider handlebars, I scratch things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO if you do more biking in tight spaces, but around cheep things - like walls, street light posts, you will gain experience and feel for the size of your bike. I mean riding deliberately close to obstacles, at low enough speed to have the luxury of actually scratching/hitting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's more, it is not just the handlebar - if you have a rear rack, that could scratch someone when turning, your pedals could hit the sidewalk, rear tire could touch bystanders, backpack - also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T15:00:30.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-05T16:44:00.837" Score="11" ViewCount="9898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Boardman Airpro and probably need a new chain having done about 1,300 miles (2100 km) with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is used for leisure and commuting and therefore goes through all weathers. I also keep the chain pretty clean and well-oiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need a new chain? There are so many different types. Which chains will work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5399" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-13T01:04:21.757" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T01:04:21.757" Title="Do I need a new chain after 1300 miles (2100 km)?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13500" CreationDate="2012-12-05T17:07:36.600" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing a chain after just 1300 miles suggests it's not the chain but your care of it that's the problem. I get upwards of 10,000km out of mine (and that's in a wet climate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean your chain 'regularly', not just to prolong it's lifespan (along with your cassette, chain-rings and dérailleurs), but also to &lt;strong&gt;have a much smoother ride&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;When do I need to clean my chain?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's been very wet and all the oil has washed of your bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you've been riding off road a lot and can see a build up of grime on your chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you live in a wet/snowy climate where gritters spray salt on the road : clean your after each five-ten bike rides - irrelevant of ride length. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You've rode over 500 kilometres, dry or wet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you never went for a ride after cleaning it last, and it's been over a week - all that fresh oil will suck up all the dust in a ten kilometre radius and turn to grime&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How do I clean my chain?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a plastic pointed cleaning brush (not a bristle brush or cloth) and scrape all the dirt of the cassette, jockey wheels, and front gears.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a bristled brush to dry clean the chain, knocking off any grime.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a &lt;strong&gt;lint free cloth&lt;/strong&gt; degrease the chain, running it through all gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again with a link free cloth, apply grease to the chain going through all gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same again with oil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a small brush (toothbrush is perfect) and lightly brush the chain while cycling it stationary to remove excess oil (this would otherwise cause the chain to jump while remaining on the same gear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every ten cleans or so you could use a chain cleaner (if you have one), do this between steps one and two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If you must replace your chain...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;em&gt;basically&lt;/em&gt; two differentiators with chains. How many links does it have, and how wide are they.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of links correspond to the kind of bike (road or mountain).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The width corresponds to the number of gears on your rear cassette. You will usually see 'overlapping chains', like a 7/8/9 chain, which means the chain can be used on bikes with 7, 8 or 9 back gears. The more gears on a cassette, the thinner they have to be to fit on, so the chains get thinner too. A ten speed will usually have a skinnier chain, and most of-the-shelf bikes use a 7/8/9.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Shimano HG53s with 114 links which I've found to be both cheap and very performant. I've been through six and get between 10,000 and 16,000 km depending on the climate of the countries I've ridden them through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll see other metrics relating to the side link quality like 'hyper-glide' chains, but this is just nonsense trying to get you to spend more money. Your chain will stretch out from lots of cycling and need replaced, before it needs replaced due to side links wearing down, so don't worry about these things too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastEditorUserId="4353" LastEditDate="2013-01-28T15:59:05.363" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T15:59:05.363" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13500" CreationDate="2012-12-05T17:17:03.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you consider replacing your chain, make sure you actually need to. If it's not rusty, feeling stiff, or making noise then use a tool to check the wear of your chain like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-wear-indicator-CC-3-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; this park tool one&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not worn past the .5% mark then I would keep using it, if it's past the .75% mark then definitely replace it, but you can use your own judgement if it is somewhere between.  You can probably have them do a quick check for free if you stop by any LBS (and then you can buy a new chain if you need one). Keep your chain clean and your drivetrain lubricated and you should get quite a lot of life out of a single chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T17:17:03.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-05T17:56:44.107" Score="1" ViewCount="4839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started to have a problem where the chain randomly goes from the large front gear to the smaller one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ive been trying to work out the reason for this and would like some input on the more likely culprit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The front derailleur is somehow slipping. in order for it to stay in the position for the large gear there is quite a bit of tension on it. (Its a 105 shimano if it makes any difference)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My front cassette is worn out AND i noticed that the chain angles towards the left as it comes off the front cassette so it naturally wants to slip down to the smaller gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T16:53:38.053" Title="front derailleur slipping?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13500" CreationDate="2012-12-05T20:14:50.087" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule you get about 2000 miles out of a chain, but this depends on the chain, it's maintenance, and the use and storage conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not out of line for certain brands of chains to need replacement in 1300 miles, since some are either cheaper (and hence more poorly constructed) or more expensive (and hence lighter, with less &quot;meat&quot;).  And the more aggressively you ride the faster the chain will wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the real test to see if a chain should be replaced is &quot;chain stretch&quot;, using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/830220/park-chain-wear-indicator?preferredSku=8302200001&amp;amp;cm_mmc=cse_froogle-_-pla-_-product-_-8302200001&amp;amp;mr%3areferralID=e0d0754b-3f16-11e2-8751-001b2166c2c0&quot;&gt;chain wear indicator&lt;/a&gt;.  Generally a chain should be replaced when &quot;stretch&quot; exceeds 0.75%, as measured by the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In a pinch you can crudely check a chain by measuring against a ruler.  Links are exactly 1&quot; apart when new, and if 10 links are more than 1/10th inch longer than 10 inches then that's 1% wear.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you definitely &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; want to do is to run a chain beyond the point that it's &quot;too worn&quot; -- this causes damage to your sprockets and can cost you several times the price of a chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T20:14:50.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23934" CreationDate="2012-12-05T20:40:41.713" Score="7" ViewCount="25799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a surly cross check with straight bars, v-brakes, and mountain shifters. I was considering a switch to a drop bar setup for cyclocross racing so I have an alternative to my single speed cross bike. I'll be switching to STI shifters, so I have to replace my brakes since Shimano STI levers don't work well with the existing v-brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering a pair of TRP CX9, Tektro RX6, or Paul's Mini Moto.  These should be compatible with my STI levers. However, due to a lack of information about this, I need to know why I would prefer cantilever brakes to the mini-v option?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible issues I was considering:&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do mini v-brakes have to sit closer to the rim? Will this cause me to slow down more when my wheel goes through an inch or two of mud?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the mini v-brakes going to be as effective at stopping? Will the modulation be poor, causing me to OTB more often when I try to stop suddenly?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a large difference in tire clearance between mini v-brakes and cantilever brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, I tend to ride a lot in the northeast/mid-atlantic region of the US and it gets really muddy here, so I doubt most races will involve a dry pack course.  I also tend to get out on to real trails and ride on mountain bike singletrack from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T13:23:04.923" Title="How do Mini V-brakes compare to cantilever brakes for Cyclocross bikes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8157" CreationDate="2012-12-05T22:25:50.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your rim will be drilled for one of the two. Usually a schrader. A presta (which is thinner) will allows fit in a schrader sized whole, but give more freedom for the valve to move around, often causing a valve wall tear and leading lots of people to think &quot;wow what a useless valve&quot;. A typical case of human error. This can easily be countered with a schrader to presta valve converter, a cheap little bit of plastic cushioning which usually costs pennies.&#xA;Prestas are far more performant in terms of the amount of pressure they can hold, and the rate they can take air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schraders are widely used not just because &quot;they're the best&quot; but because they've become a standard which is hard to break away from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T22:25:50.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13508" CreationDate="2012-12-05T22:33:26.857" Score="5" ViewCount="10662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a whole lot of knowledge on this, but here goes. I have an old Murray Ultra mountain bike (prob. 15 yrs.+). It is a 15 speed bike, with a 5 speed freewheel. The whole Shimano system is the 515 which includes front and rear derailleurs.I really don't want to spend a lot of money on an upgrade, but an up grade of some sort is necessary because of simple wear and tear. All i'm asking is there a set,or equivalent where i can replace - at least the shifters to a more modern ones,and front derailleur without having to break the bank. At the very least the front derailleur and shifters.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5645" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T00:27:06.943" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T01:31:40.430" Title="upgrading an old bike gears and shifter" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13507" CreationDate="2012-12-06T00:56:55.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having restored a number of old cheap bikes, I can tell you that the biggest problem is almost never the derailleurs/shifters. Usually these bikes have not been ridden much and have spent most of their time in a garage exposed to the elements. The biggest problems are rusted parts, poor lubrication, and horrifically bad tuning. Frequently, on a bike like this you're likely to find that it was &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; properly put together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick checklist of things to go over that can be fixed economically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buff all rusted parts with steel wool, regrease all bushings on derailleurs &amp;amp; brake calipers/levers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean/lube chain &amp;amp; freewheel or replace with similar if worn out (unlikely).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace cables and housings for brakes and shifters with inexpensive new ones (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002GCALOU&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;) ~$10-20 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace brake pads ~$10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust brakes-- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot;&gt;following readily available instructions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust shifters-- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot;&gt;following readily available instructions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disassemble/re-grease/re-pack hubs, headset, bottom bracket-- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot;&gt;following readily available instructions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;True the wheel, tighten spokes if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace inner tubes, tires, rim-tape (If they're in bad shape) ~$30-50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to replace the shifters or derailleurs, just try to find cheap replacements or used parts that are similar. You'll want to stick with 5-speed stuff, you aren't going to be upgrading to a 10 speed freewheel (they don't exist!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T01:02:39.777" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T01:02:39.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13511" CreationDate="2012-12-06T03:39:55.543" Score="6" ViewCount="13781" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daily rider is a Schwinn MTB with 26&quot; wheels/tires. Specifically the tire size is 26x47/52. On the inner tube there's a label that reads 26 x 1.90-2.125.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to purchase a few spare tubes in order to avoid getting stranded. &lt;em&gt;Question&lt;/em&gt;: are 26 x &lt;strong&gt;1.90&lt;/strong&gt;-2.125 and 26 x &lt;strong&gt;1.95&lt;/strong&gt;-2.125 inner tubes interchangeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5647" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T08:07:27.723" Title="Picking spare inner tube size" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13510" CreationDate="2012-12-06T08:07:27.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case of inner tube, difference between 1.90 and 1.95 is totally negligible. The tubes will be completely interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than carrying a few spare tubes on your bike at all times, experienced riders most often carry only one spare tube + patch kit. It takes less space and weighs less than multiple spare tubes. It's rare to catch more than 1 flat on a single ride, and if you do, patching a tube takes only a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T08:07:27.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="937" CreationDate="2012-12-06T11:03:10.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/HowToSecure.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tips from the Kryptonite guys&lt;/a&gt;. Here tha basic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use at least one U-Lock (better with aonother kind of lock)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the front wheel and lock it with the back one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't leave space for a tool to break your U-Lock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5639" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T11:03:10.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13435" CreationDate="2012-12-06T15:12:52.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Super-simple-high-power-LED-driver/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Super-simple-high-power-LED-driver/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used an LM317T as in the photo, with no heat-sink and exchanged a 50 ohm resistor, I think 1/4 watt - for the 4ohm resistor pictured. Using the original bright centre with two side indicator LED's instead of a main headlight 1W. The voltage of the LM317T goes up to ~37 volts input, so no need to reduce the circuit to 6v, at least for the specific tail-light. The other 'generic' tail-light system, mounted on a trailer sometimes sharing the power from the battery, seems to tolerate 12v better that the B&amp;amp;M designed circuit. -&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedal-pedal.co.uk/union-rear-mudguard-mounting-led-dynamo-light.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pedal-pedal.co.uk/union-rear-mudguard-mounting-led-dynamo-light.html&lt;/a&gt; &amp;lt;- this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire new circuit, ahead of the LM317T, draws 24,5 ma. I put my finger on the tab of the LM317T and noticed perhaps a barely-perceptible increase of temperature over room temp. Left it running for 10 minutes and cannot notice any change, it's the same as before. While smaller packages exist like the LM317M and can handle up to 500ma from the specs, the LM317M would be more difficult to work with. The LM317T has large leads as in the photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Open up the B&amp;amp;M and unscrew and de-solder the board from the power leads and from the main LED to remove it. Rip all the surface mount components off the original board. Save the F00x fuse.&#xA;2) Install the LM317T on the back of the board. The back is the side that has no electronics and faces towards the black plastic when installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole circuit is one resistor and one LM317T. It's all that is needed for battery-supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5630" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T15:12:52.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13459" CreationDate="2012-12-06T16:35:43.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly you were thinking of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=Ciasta%20Aero%20blade%20carbon%20seat%20post&amp;amp;sugexp=chrome,mod%3D19&amp;amp;um=1&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;source=og&amp;amp;sa=N&amp;amp;tab=wi&amp;amp;authuser=0&amp;amp;ei=AMnAUPKrAsXZ0QHZz4HwCw&amp;amp;biw=1148&amp;amp;bih=802&amp;amp;sei=AcnAUIOFHauI0QGiloDYDg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ciasta aero seatposts&lt;/a&gt; which has a similar logo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this perhaps...&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WF94j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T18:00:01.430" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T18:00:01.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13503" CreationDate="2012-12-06T16:53:38.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like your cable has stretched. For the front derailleur, you have to apply tension to the cable to get it to move to the right (&quot;harder gear&quot;) if the cable lengthens (or slips), by even a millimeter or two, it can cause the front tuning of the gear system to get out of whack with the result being the chain dropping to the easier gear(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shift all the way to the left, loosen the bolt (or nut) holding the front derailleur cable, put tension on the cable and retighten. I suspect this will fix things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chainring wear &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be at play here, but they would &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; have to be worn down. The chain angle you see is probably the natural movement when the chain is supposed to be shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check alignment: derailleur should be be about 2mm above large chainring, curve roughly matching, and aligned in the same plane as the chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T16:53:38.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13483" CreationDate="2012-12-06T17:00:52.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;SRAM X series and most (all?) of the road stuff has a 1:1 ratio. Shimano is (I believe) 1.5:1; you are asking for drive-train tuning hell if you mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cassettes, mix all you want. Shifters and derailleurs should be matched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T17:00:52.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13519" CreationDate="2012-12-06T17:46:47.123" Score="6" ViewCount="856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of Chrome Midway Pro SPD cycling shoes.  These look like sneakers, but have a cleat mount embedded in them.  Mine have worn down a bit and now the cleat crunches against the ground all the time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to make the cleat stop grinding?  Maybe build up the front of the shoe around the opening with a few layers of gorilla tape or glue strips of old bike tires to the bottom of my shoe, any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T08:26:47.957" Title="Stop SPD shoes from grinding" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;spd&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13517" CreationDate="2012-12-06T17:58:38.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They sell &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exustar.com/product_detail.php?psn=152&amp;amp;level=2&amp;amp;t1s=31&quot;&gt;cleat covers&lt;/a&gt; you can use to protect the cleats, and the floors you walk on.  Most of them are for SPD-SL but (i think) the ones I linked to are for SPD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T17:58:38.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13517" CreationDate="2012-12-06T18:02:53.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cobbler (i.e. a shoe repairman) can glue a new layer of sole (e.g a non-slip rubber sole that's suitable for winter) onto a pair of shoes' existing soles: so perhaps ask a cobbler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T18:02:53.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9677" CreationDate="2012-12-06T20:43:54.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, my Specialized Elite road shoes are both SPD and SPD-SL compatible as you can see in this picture...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn2.media.cyclingnews.futurecdn.net/2011/12/11/2/specialized_elite_road_sole_600.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cdn2.media.cyclingnews.futurecdn.net/2011/12/11/2/specialized_elite_road_sole_600.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are others out there too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5656" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T20:43:54.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-06T20:54:45.383" Score="4" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of removing a brake(front or back) to reduce weight and simplify my bike. Which brake is most expendable? Its your average fixie road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4734" LastEditorUserId="4734" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T21:14:09.190" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T15:54:21.867" Title="Which brake is most expendable?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13521" CreationDate="2012-12-06T21:07:06.833" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep your front brake. It does the most work, it will stop you much faster than your rear brake ever could hope to. Take a look at a motorcycle, the front brakes are always much larger than the rear. Whenever you brake, on a bicycle, motorcycle, in a car, more weight is transfered to the front wheels, so the front tire has more traction to stop you with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, sit down a minute and think about what you're going to do if you remove your rear brake, and one day your front brake stops working while you're going down a hill. Right about then you'll wish you had just put up with the extra 400 grams of weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T21:07:06.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13526" CreationDate="2012-12-06T21:14:48.353" Score="16" ViewCount="1870" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the main reasons I eventually give up my bicycle commute in winter is that keeping my bike -mainly the drivetrain- clean despite all the rain/dirt/salt/hail/snow becomes too much of a time suck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weather means I feel I have to clean my chain at least every two or three days. But days are short and I have no shed. So on weekdays that means working in the dark under a streetlight in the cold. I know the cleaning is worth it, but after a few sessions with freezing fingers, eyes straining to find my tools I usually give up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am looking for is a minimal routine that will keep my chain clean enough despite the weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[edited to add:]&#xA;I'm currently trying the following, but I'm not sure how well it will work in the long run:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of each leg of my commute I use my waterbottle to spray the worst of the dirt and (hopefully) all the salt of my drivetrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the morning before I leave I check my chain and, if I feel there is not enough oil on it, I add a drop to each chain roller, turn the crank a few times, and wipe of the excess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No cleaning (other than the waterbottle) no resting to let the oil seep in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[edit2, to answer some questions:]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have full fenders on my bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I currently use this lube: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclon.nl/index.php?m1=2&amp;amp;m2=9&amp;amp;m3=11&amp;amp;m4=19&amp;amp;lang_id=4&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclon.nl/index.php?m1=2&amp;amp;m2=9&amp;amp;m3=11&amp;amp;m4=19&amp;amp;lang_id=4&lt;/a&gt; which is supposed to be a wet lube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit3: what I've done:]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have switched to an even wetter lube. (this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclon.nl/?m1=2&amp;amp;m2=9&amp;amp;m3=11&amp;amp;m4=22&amp;amp;lang_id=1&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclon.nl/?m1=2&amp;amp;m2=9&amp;amp;m3=11&amp;amp;m4=22&amp;amp;lang_id=1&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I got myself a chain cleaner (this one from BBB: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=4671&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=4671&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I found a non-automatic car wash. (they are rare here, the first two google maps hits were no longer in business) There I can hose my bike down to remove the worst of the dirt/salt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have accepted that I will probably buy a new chain come spring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'll ride to the car wash every weekend or every other weekend depending on conditions. This takes me, including cleaning my chain and re-oiling everything after the hosedown, about 35 minutes including the 5k one-way ride to the car-wash. Pretty good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2012-12-09T20:41:11.483" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T18:47:12.387" Title="Minimal effort chain cleaning" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13521" CreationDate="2012-12-06T21:15:03.870" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an extremely bad idea, and it may or may not be illegal where you live. It's pretty common for the law to require you to be able to lock up &lt;em&gt;both wheels&lt;/em&gt; on flat dry pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, both brakes are important, and you shouldn't remove one for something a silly as weight reduction. The contact patch on your tires is small enough already without throwing away half your stopping power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rear brake will slow you without impacting your steering, while your front break is responsible for ~60% of your stopping power. However, braking with your front brake while turning sharply will usually result in loss of traction of your front wheel, causing the bike to slide out from under you, so it's crucial that you keep your rear brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still dead set on this course, remove the rear brake, it's the less effective of the two. Some day when you're cornering and a car pulls out in front of you, and your options are to brake and slide out or hit the car, you'll regret not having both brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T21:20:12.317" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T21:20:12.317" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13523" CreationDate="2012-12-06T21:23:26.193" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every two or three days is excessive. Biweekly should serve, even in winter months. The simplest thing would be to buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-cleaning-cm-5&quot;&gt;chain cleaner&lt;/a&gt; and use it when you feel it's needed. Parktool provides excellent instructions as well as a suggested schedule for maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, you should switch to a heavier synthetic lube in the winter. I've personally had no problem using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelightningco.com/products/wet-ride.htm&quot;&gt;Wet Ride - White Lightning&lt;/a&gt; the last two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2012-12-07T00:15:56.947" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T00:15:56.947" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13523" CreationDate="2012-12-06T21:35:53.263" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rain, hail, and snow&lt;/strong&gt; don't hurt a chain. &lt;strong&gt;Salt&lt;/strong&gt; makes it rust, and &lt;strong&gt;dirt&lt;/strong&gt; wears it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Salt&lt;/strong&gt;: You won't get all the salt out without removing the chain from the bike. The chain is doomed. You can, however, easily delay this till spring with regular application of &lt;strong&gt;wet chain lube&lt;/strong&gt;. A bit of rust won't hurt if you ride regularly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dirt&lt;/strong&gt;: Given that the chain only has to last till spring, a quick clean with a chain cleaner (as suggested by @meager) once every few hundred miles will be fine. 1 minute of cleaning, 1 of re-oiling is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Come spring, splurge on a shiny new chain. If your budget is really tight and you don't want to buy a new chain every year, keep the old one for next winter. When you take it off, give it a really good clean (off the bike), soak it in oil and store it over summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are a lot of reasons why a new chain every year is a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2012-12-07T19:51:21.557" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T19:51:21.557" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13530" CreationDate="2012-12-06T21:39:34.807" Score="3" ViewCount="1006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting a bike together from a load of spares and I'm having difficulty getting a shifter and derailleer to play well. I think the problem is the Zee mech. Does anyone know the pitch/pull ratio in MM of the XT shifter compared to the Zee shifter? Ideally an answer 'from the horses mouth' would be good as I've read all sorts of conflicting info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2012-12-07T05:07:04.930" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T05:30:51.657" Title="Anyone know the pull ratios of Zee 10sp and XT 9sp Mechs?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13529" CreationDate="2012-12-06T21:59:53.477" Score="7" ViewCount="3890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built an 'Urban Mountain Bike' and I sometimes like to take it off drops. Accordingly, I cut the 'nub' that sticks up above the top tube so that the seat can be removed without a scary open pipe waiting for my sensitive parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QHXVe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Seat post clamp underneath top tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I'm having is in relocating the seat post clamp beneath the top tube. I have cut a vertical I shape under the top tube in the steel frame so that it can collapse into the post. If I remember correctly, it's a 28.6mm OD seatpost with a 31.6mm or so OD (a bit more now with a coat of Herculiner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I'm using 2x Problem Solvers cable clamps, but I cannot get them tight enough to stop the seatpost from dropping a bit, and if I go any tighter I'm in danger of stripping them out. I'd also prefer a quick release to be able to take it out without an allen wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone make Quick Release clamps that split to get around my top tube? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I can find so far is this, but I have to lose any quick release features:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RxWah.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2 piece split clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does something like this exist already, and I'm reinventing the wheel? Or is there some way I could use two quick release levers on the split clamp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-23T23:53:50.033" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T23:53:50.033" Title="Does anyone make a split seat clamp?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;clamp&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13528" CreationDate="2012-12-06T23:58:54.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;DMR make hinged clamps for mounting chain devices and bottle cages. 3 different sizes and there is a 31.8mm which should be perfect. Easy job to retro-fit an existing QR lever and bolt I reckon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part Number: DMR-CLP-286&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XZSUX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Part Number: DMR-CLP-286&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively here is something from a different application that would probably work. You might be able to contact the company for a 'sample' :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;URL: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.staffordmfg.com/Product-Categories/Staff-Lok%28TM%29-Collars-Hinge-Type&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Staff-Lok Collar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qx6W1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Staff-Lok Collar&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(it's steel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-11-21T16:59:29.373" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T16:59:29.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13527" CreationDate="2012-12-07T05:30:51.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano’s Dyna-Sys (10 speed MTB) products are only compatible with components in the Dyna-Sys lineup, from XTR to SLX. They are not compatible with any other parts. Use of a Dyna-Sys derailleur with 9-speed shifters is contraindicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T05:30:51.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13528" CreationDate="2012-12-07T13:35:40.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you already modified the frame a lot, I would go further and modify it again by welding two &quot;ears&quot; where you could attach a real quick release, something like the picture shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3rcUg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility would be to use a (cheap?) steel clamp which you could bend open, then wrap around the frame and put the quick release through. Steel will probably not be damaged from the bending, like aluminum would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFTgk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T13:35:40.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2207" CreationDate="2012-12-07T16:42:11.017" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute&lt;/a&gt; did a impact test of two sets of helmets. One of them cheap (US$20.00) the other expensive (US$200.00). The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/testbycost.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;results&lt;/a&gt; are clear: there's no difference. Buy from a reputable brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it has the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cpsc.gov&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;U.S. CONSUMER PRODUCT SAFETY COMMISSION&lt;/a&gt; (CPSC) label&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is confortable in your head (you'll use it more)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, they give nice and reasonable &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/guide.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tips&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Beware of gimmicks. You want a smoothly rounded outer shell, with no&#xA;  sharp ribs or snag points. Excessive vents mean less foam contacting&#xA;  your head, which could concentrate force on one point. &quot;Aero&quot; helmets&#xA;  are not noticeably faster, and in a crash the &quot;tail&quot; could snag or&#xA;  knock the helmet aside. Skinny straps are less comfortable. Dark&#xA;  helmets are hard for motorists to see. Rigid visors can snag or&#xA;  shatter in a fall. Helmet standards do not address these&#xA;  problems--it's up to you!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their site is really informative. It's worth to spend half an hour browsing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5639" LastEditorUserId="5639" LastEditDate="2014-02-08T22:46:39.447" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T22:46:39.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13528" CreationDate="2012-12-07T17:04:21.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a perfect use for a &quot;wedge&quot; seat post. Animal bikes has &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.animalbikes.com/index.php/hard-goods/seats-posts/wedge-seatpost-black-135mm-patent-pending.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt;, other companies might make longer ones. You'd need to get a Pivotal seat to go with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T17:04:21.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13523" CreationDate="2012-12-07T23:24:05.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get yourself a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=wippermann%20connex&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wippermann Connex link&lt;/a&gt;. IMO, they are the best and easiest quick links available. Reusable and tool-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your chain off; soak it in a mason jar full of mineral spirits for a few hours. Shake it around really well, take it out, and allow it to dry. Reinstall. Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=phil%27s%20tenacious%20oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phil's Tenacious Oil&lt;/a&gt; as a chain lube during the nasty grimy winter months. Do this every week or two at most. Every few days is excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T18:47:12.387" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T18:47:12.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13500" CreationDate="2012-12-08T02:47:34.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, 2000 miles out of a 9/10 speed chain is pretty typical. Some brands do seem to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tour-magazin.de/services/qtr/epaper_4_2011/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;objectively better than others&lt;/a&gt; (see page 44 and onward), however, so your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding measuring the wear of a chain, &lt;a href=&quot;http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a steel ruler is highly effective&lt;/a&gt;. Some would argue that chain checkers are made to sell chains, not really measure the wear on them, but they are generally conservative in that they typically factor in roller/bushing wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read claims of longer life from 9/10 speed chains, and I'm actually in the middle of testing a couple of new &quot;treatments&quot; to see if they extend chain life. First, I switched lubricants. Previously I had been using various teflon-carrying oils, wax based lubes, even ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Now I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dumondetech.com/dumonde/products/bicycle-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dumonde&lt;/a&gt; (review &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/review-lubricants/dumonde-tech-bicycle-chain-lube_59.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), and I also bought an ultrasonic cleaner which I have used to clean my chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be happy to come back here and post an update when the time is right. Currently my new chain (lubed with Dumonde lite and cleaned with the ultrasonic cleaner after 800 miles of riding) is at 900 miles and counting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I will mention regarding the Dumonde, it does help me to have a very clean drivetrain, which I appreciate (and never really seemed to achieve with other lubes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, this shows when I replace my chain, when it has &quot;stretched&quot; by 1/16.&quot; That particular chain was lubed with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelightningco.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wax lube&lt;/a&gt;, mainly, and lasted 2000 miles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3rCLI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain stretch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2012-12-08T19:54:44.463" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T19:54:44.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13500" CreationDate="2012-12-08T09:54:40.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see no exact match for &quot;AirPro&quot; on the Boardman website, (the Pro Carbon possibly?) but certainly every model that is listed has a &quot;spec&quot; tab in which the chain is listed. By and large the groupsets seem to be Shimano with a couple of SRAMs, and lots of the chains coming out of the factory appear to be KMC. So, as regards what chain to get you should be able to look it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find your bike (old model?) on the site do you know what groupset it has? Certainly Shimano offer a chain for each of their ranges (105, Ultegra etc.) so you should be able to identify the chain that way. But check the number of cogs on your rear cassette because the chain will be dependent on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as regards what chain to get, that should be straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some good answers on here regarding how to tell whether your chain actually needs replacing, I would simply add that if you look at the cost of replacing the chain on its own is not too expensive. The most recent chain I bought was for my fixie (a KMC at less than 10GBP, which also happens to be less than the cost of a bottle of Park chain cleaner!) a couple of months ago but I think even the top of the range Shimano Dura Ace chains are only something like 25GBP. So if you have your doubts, I would say just do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as other people have said, you sometimes need a new cassette as well and these can be more expensive - I bought a new wheel in the summer and put an Ultegra cassette on it, think it cost about 50GBP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T09:54:40.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13541" CreationDate="2012-12-08T10:09:54.417" Score="17" ViewCount="26523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a road bike for commuting. There is a guy near me who finds older road bikes (e.g. from the 80's) and fixes them up. Are there downsides to getting an older bike (assuming it's had a proper tune up) compared to getting a bike released in the last year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5212" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T18:35:24.863" Title="Are today's bikes &quot;better&quot; than a few decades ago?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13539" CreationDate="2012-12-08T10:44:16.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of a subjective question, and at the end of the day you are best off trying a couple to compare, as you need to feel comfortable on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference is in technology - at the top end, dramatic improvements have been made in materials, bonding, flexibility, weight etc., and these do trickle down to consumer bikes. Spares for older bikes may also not be as available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a normal, every day commuter, a well maintained bike from the 80's may be absolutely fine, but a more modern bike might be a bit lighter, a bit more able to soak up bumps, have better gearing system and this may make the difference if you are using it every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T10:44:16.423" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13539" CreationDate="2012-12-08T13:48:48.453" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last major technological improvement in standard bicycles was indexed shifting.  The indexing part of this isn't that big a deal, but the feature also gives you the ability to shift under load (which &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a big deal).  I'm thinking this change occurred in the late 80s, but my memory for chronology is poor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, since then we've gotten V-brakes, carbon frames, &quot;compact&quot; cranksets and a few other things, but they're not fundamental changes, just minor refinements (if that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re &quot;non-standard&quot; bikes, the biggest change has likely been the improvements in geared hubs.  These have gone from 3-speed, don't-dare-shift-under-load-or-you'll-wreck-it models to multi-speed or continuous models that &lt;em&gt;encourage&lt;/em&gt; you to shift under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has also been progress in recumbent technology, but I don't think there've been any game-changers (though I'm not up on this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem with a bike more than 15-20 years old is that replacement parts get harder to find.  In particular, if you buy an older bike you might want to buy a spare rear cluster right off, to have on hand.  And I wouldn't recommend buying a road bike with 27&quot; tires, since replacement tires (of the narrow &quot;racing&quot; variety) will be hard to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T13:48:48.453" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13539" CreationDate="2012-12-08T15:05:23.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting an older well-made and well-maintained bike is preferable in a city in the Netherlands. Modern bikes are made lighter and with less material; they tend to be less robust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a second hand bike from the 80's with 3 gears, and drum brakes that use levers and iron bars instead of cables. The only thing that I have to replace form time to time are the tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5666" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T15:05:23.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13539" CreationDate="2012-12-08T16:14:51.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are better if you're willing to invest a good deal of money. It depends on your situation. Is your commute asphalt-only or does it include dirt or snow? Will you only use it to get to and from work, or also for groceries and the occasional one-day or multi-day tour? Are you in a flat area, or are there steep slopes around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koga-signature.com/en/Koga-Signature.aspx&quot;&gt;a high-end touring bicycle&lt;/a&gt; for my daily commute, 9 km one-way with 120 m elevation difference, in a sub-Arctic climate; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kiruna&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; we have 7 months of snowcover, temperatures dropping below -20°C and occasionally down to -40°C, and deep deep darkness. In those circumstances I ride along a 2-lane road frequented by some heavy trucks. Those circumstances, combined with the fact that I go on the occasional multi-day trip, led me to invest in a decent bicycle, because lights, gears, winter performance and durability are key issues. Theft risk in my area is very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some relevant new technologies may include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belt-driven_bicycle&quot;&gt;Carbon belt drive&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Internally geared hubs with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/de/unternehmen/index.html&quot;&gt;14 gears&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt.asp&quot;&gt;High-performance hub dynamos&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp&quot;&gt;Very bright headlights&lt;/a&gt;, not only bright enough to be seen, but also to have excellent visibility on a dark forest path&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, whether you really need that is a different question. A 20-year old indestructable steel frame may be exactly what you need. In principle the aforementioned items can be installed on an old frame (except for the belt drive), but IMO that would be silly, because if you're willing to invest a lot of money you can just as well get a proper new frame as well. It all depends on your wishes and priorities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T16:14:51.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13505" CreationDate="2012-12-08T16:47:34.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I don't have any experience with road type v-brakes, I was considering them for a while and asked my LBS about them. They told me that the biggest difference is that v-brakes offer more stopping power than cantilevers but also make feathering the brakes for speed control more difficult.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T16:47:34.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14925" CreationDate="2012-12-08T16:50:45.627" Score="2" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the old HiteRite seat dropper springs are excellent for cost and simplicity, but of course they are like hen's teeth now. &#xA;I've been looking at torsion spring suppliers and adapting seat clamps and collars to make one (actually a few, as I have some pre-orders :) but JUST before I get hacking, does anyone know of an alternative that's still in production, or a common hack/mod to make one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added as requested: here's an advert for one where you'll see what it looks like and how it works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xRhF5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;80s HiteRite advert&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&#xA;Ben&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastEditorUserId="3338" LastEditDate="2012-12-10T18:47:45.650" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T16:49:34.207" Title="Joe Breeze HiteRite altenative... ideas before I get hacking!" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8157" CreationDate="2012-12-08T17:01:47.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what others have said, many gas station air compressors won't push the tire pressure past 80 psi. This is fine for cars where the tires are usually inflated to about half that, but no good for a road bike where you probably want 100+ psi. This means that you're stuck using a floor pump, a frame pump, or a Co2 pump alll the time. And as others have mentioned, Prestas just work better with hand pumps. And if you're filling your tires to 100+ psi all the time, you might as well have a valve that works easily with the pump that you'll be using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T17:01:47.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13539" CreationDate="2012-12-08T17:30:18.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the time comes, you may find parts harder to come by for the older bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T17:30:18.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2012-12-08T17:39:32.033" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a bike and it came with this pedal spanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mpCJ7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pedal spanner&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think the easiest thing to do is to write the directions on the spanner!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T17:39:32.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-08T19:53:10.120" Score="2" ViewCount="2305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replace my old lever shifters (Shimano 515) with something a bit more modern. Can I do this without replacing the front and rear derailleurs. And which shifter would be a simple, and or equivalent replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5645" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T23:48:35.957" Title="modernizing shifters" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11255" CreationDate="2012-12-09T02:38:53.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will likely find out as I did, that it can be a bit of trial and error when setting the cycle computer to accurately measure mileage. The settings are usually set according to the size ( diameter and width ) of the tires. You can get fairly close to being accurate by using teh suggested settings in the directions for your computer. There are a few things you must take into consideration. First of all you must make sure your tires are inflated to the pressure normally used. Secondly, consider the position you must place the sending unit on the fork, and the magnet position on the spoke. The further towards the outer edge of the wheel the magnet can be placed, the more accurate the measurement will be with the computer initial setting by the instructions. Some forks won't allow you to set the receiving unit so the magnet is close to the rim of the wheel. Due to my fork design, my sensor is down probably two inches from the edge of the wheel, closer to the center of the wheel than the instructions recommend. I've found the easiest method is to travel a known measured distance, like a mile, then set your computer so that it will read the same mile over the known distance. Then be sure to write the information down so when it's time for a battery change, the measurements are easily reset in the computer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T02:38:53.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13559" CreationDate="2012-12-09T02:39:05.127" Score="5" ViewCount="2844" Body="&lt;p&gt;TLDR; I chased down a bike thief and caught her. Turns out she's a juvenile. She claims she mistook the bike for her own. The police say if we press charges, nothing will likely come of it because it's a he-said/she-said situation. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night, my beloved racing bike got stolen off of the front of a Muni bus in San Francisco.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd been watching it like a hawk, and saw it as it happened. The driver did too. He yelled, &quot;Your bike!&quot; and opened the door for me, I dropped my stuff and took off after the thief. She was obviously having trouble keeping her feet on the tiny Speedplay pedals, and I managed to tackle her as she slipped. Two security guards happened to be right there, and apprehended her. Thankfully, the bus driver waited for me, so I was able to retrieve my laptop bag (and 40lb bag of cat litter — man, that would have slowed me down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out this happened right outside of the girl's apartment, and her mother and grandmother came out due to the commotion. The mother was genuinely and earnestly disappointed in her daughter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The police told me given her story (she mistook the bike for her own) and lack of prior arrest record, it would be hard to take it any further than a police report. The problem is that in order to convict, we would need to prove intent, and that would be difficult to do. Having done some Googling since, as I (possibly incorrectly) understand it, the city prosecutor would be responsible for pressing charges and would probably opt not to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that the case? And how should I proceed? I'm not convinced that pressing charges would result in a positive outcome (either if it wasn't successful or if it was; sometimes kids just do stupid shit and need an event like this to change their path). What would you do at this point if you were in my situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T15:45:13.067" Title="How to handle an attempted bike theft" Tags="&lt;theft&gt;&lt;advice&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-02-09T20:53:50.057" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11062" CreationDate="2012-12-09T03:20:47.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best cleaners I've found as far as both results and price, is a product called &quot;Totally Awesome&quot; liquid. It's a yellowish color and can be mixed at various strengths according to the job at hand. Cost is about $1 or $2 depending on where you buy it. You can get it in a spray bottle and a larger refill bottle. It can be used for hundreds of cleaning projects, just choose the strength you need. I buy it at Dollar General or Dollar Tree. It doesn't seem to damage paint at all. I've used Simple Green before due to its degreasing capabilities, but Totally Awesome does the same degreasing job at half the price. I use about a 20 or 25 to 1 mixture of Awesome cleaner/degreaser to water. Totally Awesome and a soft cloth gets the bike clean in less than an hour, including a cleaning/degreasing of the chain. It seems unlikely that a product priced so economically could so effective cleaning so many things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorDisplayName="user4975" LastEditDate="2012-12-09T15:17:47.117" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T15:17:47.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11052" CreationDate="2012-12-09T05:01:49.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely V-Brakes will work just fine in cold and snowy conditions. Check the pads often, they tend to wear much quicker. We ride in the snow in Utah all winter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5672" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T05:01:49.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13523" CreationDate="2012-12-09T05:09:51.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love my Park Tool Chain Gang Chain Cleaning System (CG-2). It is super easy to use and does a great job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I travel I will hit a car wash and give my bike a quick rinse, it's another cheap and effective way to clean the bike and drive train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;just make sure that you lube it well after cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5672" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T05:09:51.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13551" CreationDate="2012-12-09T06:38:03.510" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Press charges, and have the police issue a warrant to search for a bike similar to yours/ Investigate (Asking her mom/neighbors questions about a bike that may be similar)&#xA;If she shows up with one, you're out of luck, but it's probably not likely.&#xA;Additionally, there is no way she would be able to pedal away with a bike that doesn't fit her, so her height and physiology may also make your case.&#xA;I'd think that when somebody adjusted my seat height, I would notice.&#xA;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5673" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T06:38:03.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13549" CreationDate="2012-12-09T06:42:31.580" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only need to replace the shifters, but make sure to look for a model that has the same number of gears in the front and back.&#xA;When you shift, the indexing happens inside the shifter, not the derailleur. Derailleurs are compatible with all speeds, and even friction shifters. &#xA;All you have to do to replace them, is get a shifter with the matching number of gears on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5673" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T06:42:31.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31054" CreationDate="2012-12-09T07:45:49.697" Score="7" ViewCount="7977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have an older 10 speed Campagnolo Record group set with 52/39 cranks.  I would like to get a compact group set. I can't get an equivalent 10 speed compact cranks now but I can get an 11 speed set.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use 11 speed crankset with the remainder of my 10 speed group set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4943" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T03:28:19.440" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T07:36:13.837" Title="Campagnolo 11 speed crank with 10 speed running gear" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13517" CreationDate="2012-12-09T08:26:47.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear Chrome shoes as well, but only have the regular Midways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chrome, although their shoes are less than satisfactory (for me), have excellent customer service, and I mean EXCELLENT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have some sort of defect on your shoe, take it into one of their shops, and they'll replace it for you. (Within the 1 year warranty)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine was splitting on the sides between the sole and the plastic band that's glued onto the shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They replaced it no questions asked, and extended my warranty 1 year past the day of replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, this would only work if you bought your shoe less than one year ago, and still have the receipt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5673" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T08:26:47.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13551" CreationDate="2012-12-09T09:42:09.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't bother - your bike, laptop bag, and cat litter were not lost.  It was a horrible experience no doubt, but in the end you didn't lose anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what can be gained from this experience?  Stopping anyone else's bike being stolen by the juvenile is the obvious one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If we assume that this was the first time she had attempted to steal bike - it went horribly wrong and would probably put anyone off doing it again anyway.  Especially if she came from a decent home, her family will give her some serious grief.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this was one of many attempted bike thefts then pressing charges (which as you say will almost certainly not result in any litigious action), won't change her behaviour - you will have just wasted your own time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I don't think there is general right or wrong answer, every situation is different.  The above is just my take on what you have written.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T09:42:09.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13572" CreationDate="2012-12-09T19:45:20.723" Score="-3" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to think of either a famous cycling town, race or climb that begins with the letter &quot;D&quot; but I'm having problems coming up with any and google isn't much help either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought I'd open it up to the masses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I'm using the name as a codeword for a project I'm working on, so Dauphine it is.  I've already had Alpe d'Huez, Big Bear Lake, Cairn O'Mount so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2523" LastEditorUserId="2523" LastEditDate="2012-12-10T11:42:10.970" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T11:42:10.970" Title="A famous cycling Race, Place or Climb beginning with the letter &quot;D&quot;" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2013-01-02T07:38:32.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13561" CreationDate="2012-12-09T20:57:51.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fl%C3%BCela_Pass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flüela Pass&lt;/a&gt; starting in &lt;strong&gt;Davos&lt;/strong&gt; Switserland, going to Nauders / Austria: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, for more alpine chic: the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albula_pass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Albula pass&lt;/a&gt; between &lt;strong&gt;Davos&lt;/strong&gt; and Sankt Moritz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T20:57:51.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13622" CreationDate="2012-12-09T22:08:57.487" Score="2" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was bolting on my Tubus Nova front rack and noticed that there were bolt holes on the bottom of it, and got to wondering what they are for.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tubus.com/documents/1329746055_Ergo_Nova.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions&lt;/a&gt; are mostly in pictures and just show that it is to attach this little flange &quot;for panniers&quot;.  I'm mostly familiar with Ortlieb-style panniers that clip on the top and a sideways hook below.  What kind of pannier attachment would use this sort of thing?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fXtjs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Extract from Tubus Nova Manual&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T22:13:53.213" Title="What kind of panniers is this tubus rack flange for?" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13539" CreationDate="2012-12-09T22:10:18.347" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question will most likely also be a matter of personal taste. I am also one of the &quot;not much new of interest in the last decades&quot;. The notable exceptions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clipless pedal systems, including well-proven ones which you also can walk in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lighting evolved from &quot;always something broken&quot; to &quot;forget about it, it will work&quot; with dynamo hubs, coax wiring and LED lamps (if you can't wire the rear light internally through the frame, use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/TL-LD1100/&quot;&gt;good battery rear light&lt;/a&gt; instead).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indexed shifting with high precision is something I personally appreciate a lot. However, for everyday use (and -dirt) technology has not really become better since 8 cogs were the norm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just about everything else you could get as well many decades ago as today, or even better. Some recent technology I would try to avoid includes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overly stiff frames: Even Eddy on his old steel frame could not significantly increase frame temperature by pedaling. Steel is almost ideally elastic, and the energy you need to (non-permanently) flex it will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be lost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of cogs in the back, and long wire casings: I have never experienced more precise shifting than Dura Ace 8x &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=40e79148-190e-440a-8cab-4bbb67c4ecad&amp;amp;Enum=104&quot;&gt;down tube shifters&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=b9be2fb8-66f2-42ba-985d-a2fe24e8c20d&amp;amp;Enum=108&quot;&gt;derailleur&lt;/a&gt;. Cog distance matters, and you won't really gain more useful gears by adding cogs. A commuter sees all kind of weather, and reliability counts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frames and brakes with tight (i.e. standard) clearances: Winter will come, and if you don't live in paradise sooner or later fenders will come handy (yes, they can &lt;a href=&quot;http://prollyisnotprobably.com/2012/11/beautiful-bicycle-peter-weigle-touring-bike/&quot;&gt;look good and work well&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-compact road doubles: If you always race with pros, run 53x42 or 52x39. If you don't, there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/11/03/how-to-choose-your-chainrings/&quot;&gt;options that fit you better&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires narrower than 25mm (but the recent trend is luckily away from 20...23mm): They won't make you faster, but they will make you less comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbon frames and parts: Carbon will not react gracefully to abuse it is not designed for. Furthermore it is too hard to determine what could be broken. That rules out most carbon parts for an everyday bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spare parts aspect for classic bikes is not a real problem if you choose the bike wisely. Most ca. 20...25 years old road bikes will be very serviceable with parts you can easily get. Modern bikes are not always better: Just have a look at &quot;modern&quot; bottom brackets and ask yourself what has a life span of more than five years...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastEditorUserId="5570" LastEditDate="2012-12-09T22:19:04.080" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T22:19:04.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2012-12-09T22:20:34.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/784042/ortlieb-bike-packer-plus-panniers-pair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ortlieb's bike packer plus&lt;/a&gt;.  A bit pricey, but I can fit a fair load of groceries in them, they are waterproof, and good for touring as well.  I haven't done research to verify, but they are the largest Ortlieb panniers I've seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.waldsports.com/index.cfm/wald157basket.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wald 157&lt;/a&gt; that DC_CARR mentions, there is also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.waldsports.com/index.cfm/wald135basket.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wald 135&lt;/a&gt;, which is less gigantic but still holds a USA-standard paper bag of groceries, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.waldsports.com/index.cfm/wald582rearfoldingbasket.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wald 582 rear folding baskets&lt;/a&gt; that each will also hold a US-standard paper grocery bag.  For a while I had a pair of 582's and a 135 on one bike, and three bags of groceries is a decent haul.  Added bonus for Wald is that are crazy cheap (at least in the USA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T22:20:34.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10682" CreationDate="2012-12-10T00:40:16.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must have at least one braking system working to be legal. Coaster bikes only have a rear brake anyway. But what conerns me is your statement that the front brake is working fine, yet you find it difficult to stop at a pedestrian crosing. If the front brake ( the most efficeient brake in most two wheel brake systems due to ther being relatively little weight on the rear wheel ), is working fine, then you should be able to stop very efficiently. You should have to be wary of getting tossed over the handle bars! Therefore, I'd suggest taking time to either replace the brake pads or adjust the system if you're having difficulty stopping. You may save your own skin or that of a pedestrian in a cross walk. Check the wheels and the brake pads to get them both working efficiently. Bicycling is inherently dangerous in some areas anyway, so you must be able to protect yourself and others from getting injured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T00:40:16.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10682" CreationDate="2012-12-10T00:48:00.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Minnesota (USA) law:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(b) No person shall operate a bicycle unless it is equipped   with a&#xA;  brake which will enable the operator to make the braked   wheels skid&#xA;  on dry, level, clean pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minnesota Statutes 169,222(b)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, technically, may disqualify front brakes on standard bikes, since on dry pavement the bike will probably flip before the wheel skids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T00:48:00.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13570" CreationDate="2012-12-10T08:07:47.903" Score="3" ViewCount="6087" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 26&quot; mountain bike currently has a 2x10 gear setup with SRAM components: a SRAM S-1250 crank with 38/24 chainrings, and a SRAM PG-1030, 10-speed, 11-36t cassette. I feel that when riding on non-technical dirt trails I am maxing out my drive-train, meaning that I am not able to accelerate beyond a certain speed when riding the 'hardest' gear.&#xA;I have been reading about the Shimano 3x10 system which may allow me to reach higher speeds, due to higher possible transfer ratios. So, how much faster can I with a 3x10 setup? please elaborate on the math in your answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2512" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T15:02:55.680" Title="How much faster can i go after moving from 2x10 to a 3x10 gear setup?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;26-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13569" CreationDate="2012-12-10T09:41:29.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, if you switch to 3 in front, and then make it a 52/38/24 set (equal steps) then your theoretical new maximum speed would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[new max]=52/38*[Your current max]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently at your top speed one revolution of your crank leads to 38/11th of a revolution of your rear wheel. This will become 52/11th or about 1.37 times as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not the whole story however. You probably know that wind resistant is much more of an issue at higher speeds than rolling resistance. So (unless you are really strong) your actual maximum will be quite a bit lower than the theoretical maximum calculated above. &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecalculator.com/what.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This tool&lt;/a&gt; allows you to set your speed or power output and calculate the other. If I assume your current max as 30kph, your bike weight at 9kg, your weight at 70kg (don't be offended, I'm just guessing), and you are on MTB tires and in the &quot;hoods&quot; position (whatever that is) then your power output at that speed would be about 220 Watt. With the extra chainring in front your theoretical maximum speed would be 41.1kph (all other variables being equal) but to attain it you would need to about 470 Watt! More than twice as much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously in your current situation you are not pedaling efficiently at your maximum speed because you are spinning your legs like crazy, but a 1.4 times speed gain is probably too much to hope for. As a test to see where you can get you could ask your friendly LBS owner if he'll lend you a bigger front chainring for a test ride and see if you can find out from that at what point you max out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T09:41:29.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13569" CreationDate="2012-12-10T09:42:51.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume your wheels have a circumference of l = 2 m. With a 38x11 gear you will cover&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;d = 38 / 11 * l&#xA;  = 6.91 m&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;per crank revolution. Assume that you can pedal at a cadence of 90 rpm, that will give you a speed of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;v = d * 90 rpm * 60 min&#xA;  = 37.3 km/h&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a road which allows for such speed you should be able to pedal at a higher cadence if you have good riding technique, i.e. achieve even higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maths don't care about brand names, but take a Shimano XT triple with 42-32-24 teeth instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;d = 42 / 11 * l&#xA;  = 7.64 m&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;v = 41.2 km/h&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;at 90 rpm, which is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(41.2 * 100 / 37.3) - 100 = 10.6%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;faster. Actually, the ratio of the two different big rings will give you the same &lt;code&gt;(42 * 100 / 38) - 100 = 10.6%&lt;/code&gt; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you keep your 11-36 cassette, the drive train will have a total capacity of &lt;code&gt;(36 - 11) + (42 - 24) = 43&lt;/code&gt; teeth, which may be more than what your rear derailleur can take care of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that it is often easier to maximize downhill speed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://gearinches.com/blog/cycling/aero-tuck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;optimizing aerodynamics&lt;/a&gt; instead of pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T09:42:51.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13561" CreationDate="2012-12-10T10:53:43.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently i can't just write Dauphiné Libéré because that's not enough letters to constitute a proper answer on StackExchange&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T10:53:43.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13576" CreationDate="2012-12-10T11:21:39.687" Score="22" ViewCount="2874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt that motor-vehicle drivers can hear the &quot;ding&quot; sound that a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0010345W0&quot;&gt;bicycle bell&lt;/a&gt; makes. What are some better alternatives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2012-12-10T11:28:29.887" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T19:29:28.887" Title="What are some alternatives to fruitlessly ringing my bell at a motorist?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;signals&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13573" CreationDate="2012-12-10T11:21:39.687" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Screaming is faster and much more effective: I suspect it's usually best. Or use an electric horn or air horn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About screaming:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BHSI writes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/safequip.htm&quot;&gt;as follows&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We don't find that horns do much for safety on a bicycle. Your voice is faster to react and adapts better to different situations. The primal scream produces good adrenalin-based reactions in motorists and is probably your best defense in most bike/car situations. It requires no evaluation by the driver, since the panic in your voice is obvious, and it can move a car over a lane almost instantly. Curse words will not improve on that, by the way, since you will get a quicker reaction when the motorist is scared, not angry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual yell is the interjection &quot;C'mon&quot;, yelled loudly enough that I'm in pain for a couple minutes afterwards. Cars hear it fine and react quickly. (Disclaimer: I've never needed to try yelling at a driver with his stereo blasting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in Canada, drivers are relatively polite. I try not to yell at a driver unless they make a mistake, such as trying to change lanes into my path. Since I learned to ride a bike, I've yelled at dozens of drivers. No driver has ever retaliated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, instead of yelling, I use my voice to mimic a car horn: I loudly say, &quot;Meep, meeeeep&quot;. Sometimes I even pinch my nose while doing so: that way, others can look around and see that it was clearly me who made the sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About horns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot yell &amp;mdash; for example, if you insist on wearing a face mask &amp;mdash; invest in a high-decibel horn. Some accept rechargeable batteries. Air horns require you to fill and carry an air bottle. Neither type is as reliable as your voice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T06:26:54.923" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T06:26:54.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13573" CreationDate="2012-12-10T12:53:17.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that shouting (whatever words you use) is often taken personally by the drivers. It's probably the most effective and quickest to use in an emergency as described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen several cyclists with a football whistle on a lanyard round the neck (mine is on my helmet strap) that can be held loosly between the teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T12:53:17.440" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13573" CreationDate="2012-12-10T12:56:33.557" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go for the air-horn, for example the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airzound.co.uk/&quot;&gt;AirZound&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is my opinion that screaming and yelling (the primal scream) can cause a lot of unnecessary social distress, and is not a good alterntive for traffic communication and signalling under normal conditions. It ends up being more effective when you're in &quot;panic&quot; as said, which is barely a day-by-day acceptable situation to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air horns, on the other hand, save your throat, are MUCH louder, and have a more emotionaly neutral sound, adequate for signaling in traffic, specially heavy urban traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One single thing is paramount, based in my experience with bell-rings: the activation lever must be easily, instantly accessible by your thumb when the hand is in braking position. If you have to move or reposition your hand in order to activate the horn, it will be underused and practically uneffective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T12:56:33.557" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11052" CreationDate="2012-12-10T14:09:12.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had some horrible experience with v-brakes in snow - it was like having &lt;strong&gt;no brakes at all&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was lucky to find out the ineffectiveness of the brakes in a relatively safe situation, but that was like a revelation about the shortcomings of v-brakes. (Otherwise they've been quite reliable for me - even in the mountains.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, the snow may come onto the rims unnoticed and breaks is a sort of things which tend to take you by surprise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in my opinion - this is risky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5678" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T14:09:12.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13573" CreationDate="2012-12-10T14:53:27.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the situation, you may be able to &quot;flash&quot; your front light by covering and uncovering it with your hand. I've managed to make drivers dip their headlights with this technique, but it's not that easy to do in a rush or when braking. Of course it will only work when you're facing the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T14:53:27.850" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13604" CreationDate="2012-12-10T16:43:17.220" Score="5" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a social network exists for bicycle users?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a website that caters bikers who want to discover some parts of France, and I'd like to allow bikers to share their experience. I could use FB, but some other soc net are maybe more relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would a biker do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5680" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2012-12-12T10:24:34.487" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T13:34:27.653" Title="Social network for bike users" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13580" CreationDate="2012-12-10T20:38:59.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK the biggest social network for bicycle riders is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.pinkbike.com&lt;/a&gt; which has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Over 200,000 users, riders and friends on Pinkbike.com!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;although the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/user/list/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;friend finder&quot;&lt;/a&gt; currently reports:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;593,662 users&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T20:38:59.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13545" CreationDate="2012-12-11T00:17:27.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people do seat posts that  achieve this - have a search on google for &quot;Dropper seat post&quot;, All of the current models are almost certainly more reliable and easier to use than a simple spring, and can be activated while riding. The fact you cannot find any like the HiteRite is probably the effect of what we now refer to as Darwinism - not bad in it's time, but things have moved on since 1984.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T00:17:27.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2940" CreationDate="2012-12-11T09:01:55.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Granted this answer is not for everyone, but it is simple for tandem riders. As the helmsman/captain I wear a Camelbak with elastic webbing which holds the OS map conveniently in front of the stoker (I have a photo somewhere). I get funny looks when I walk into shops with a map on my back, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the scale is large enough it can be read while pedalling, although I'm sometimes told to keep still so gradient lines can be read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T09:01:55.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13586" CreationDate="2012-12-11T12:10:44.990" Score="11" ViewCount="1248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just stumbled upon this photo of what appears to be a reasonably normal citybike, except it looks like it has a second set of pedals at the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ng0FL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;one weird looking bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/16nine/8227075147/lightbox/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody knows what it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5687" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2012-12-12T15:35:04.040" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T19:09:24.213" Title="What's this? Photo of bicycle with pedals by the rear wheel" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13585" CreationDate="2012-12-11T12:39:53.217" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are bicycles with a crankshaft that runs through the rear axle. The &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brainpickings.org/index.php/2011/09/14/cyclepedia-michael-embacher-bicycle-design/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tur Meccanica Bi Bici&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is such a bicycle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwDaD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tur Meccanica Bi Bici&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell from your picture if it's the same bike or not, but it certainly could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T12:39:53.217" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2940" CreationDate="2012-12-11T13:48:38.967" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zip tie + Binder Clip on Stem clamping to a 1 Gallon Ziplock Plastic bag with properly folded map inside. Alternatively, if that's not secure enough, use 2 binder clips + zip ties on the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a similar DIY setup using velcro wire ties&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Kyti.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Kyti.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://oklahomabicyclesociety.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/MapHolder3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;oklahomabicyclesociety.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;via &lt;a href=&quot;http://oklahomabicyclesociety.com/hints-tips/simple-cycling-map-holder/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oaklahoma bicycle Society&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T19:20:51.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13589" CreationDate="2012-12-11T15:05:55.983" Score="0" ViewCount="1057" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I just cut the carbon seat tube, cut a vertical slot for compression and use a conventional seat clamp to hold a seat post in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4598" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T21:09:11.090" Title="Extending integrated carbon seat tube" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13588" CreationDate="2012-12-11T17:26:52.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is unlikely. The inside of a frame is machined/molded to a specific size for the seat post. An integrated post is not finished internally. Also, it is unlikely that the internal and external diameters of the post/frame/clamp would match well enough to be ridden safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat post fitting is a zero tolerance game, and they are dimension-ed to the tenth om millimeters. You would have to be beyond lucky for that to work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T17:26:52.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13594" CreationDate="2012-12-11T20:33:25.313" Score="-2" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying a helmet camera for my commue - what are the pros and cons of a helmet camera that I should know about? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5689" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T12:22:10.433" Title="Helmet Camera pros and Cons" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2012-12-13T14:22:46.070" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13590" CreationDate="2012-12-11T20:40:01.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can film while riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This can lead to interesting or useful events being recorded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Video quality is usually sub-par and will contain a lot of shaking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight on helmet - affects comfort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible affect on helmet safety&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerodynamics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some people take offense to being recorded without permission&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your video could be used as evidence against you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expense and hassle of acquiring camera, batteries, ensuring they are charged etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T22:10:41.597" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T22:10:41.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2207" CreationDate="2012-12-11T20:48:02.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is actually some misinformation here. It is true that both cheap and expensive helmets must conform with CE-certifications and EU-regulations etc. but the Swedish insurance company Folksam did a more comprehensive test of bicycle helmets. While the best helmet was a relatively cheap one (if you don't consider the airbag helmet), there was a large difference between the amount of protection they each offered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.folksam.se/testergodarad/sakeritrafiken/pacykelochtillfots/cykelhjalmstestvuxna&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to the test, but unfortunately it is in Swedish. Google translate was not to keen to parse the link either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T09:07:02.657" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T09:07:02.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13588" CreationDate="2012-12-11T21:09:11.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue and found that the inside diameter was an odd size. One millimeter is a mile as far as seatpost sizes are concerned. Another issue is that on some frames (in my case a Schwinn) the seat post won't insert past the top tube. This leaves very little post inserted. I settled on a Ritchey WCS mast topper. It will allow for approx. 40mm of height adjustment by using spacers. It is an alloy model that weighs about 17 grams more than the carbon at about 1/3 the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T21:09:11.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13590" CreationDate="2012-12-11T22:12:32.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small bullet cam which can record HD resolution. It was bought primarily as a &quot;just in case&quot; mechanism against road rage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pros are as stated by others. The cons for me are (in no particular order):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frequently forget to turn it on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when I do remember to turn it on, I frequently forget to turn it off. I have many times got a long recording of &quot;the parcel shelf on the train&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;given its size and minimalist appearance, its difficult to tell whether its on or off. An LED flashes but this can be difficult to see in broad daylight. Also the tiny on/off button is difficult to operate in to my winter gloves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;normal battery life is around 90 minutes, so bear this in mind. For your commute it'll likely be fine but if you then decide you want to use it for an epic 6-hour ride, it'll be lacking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it recharges via usb, but it is also fixed to the side of my helmet. Therefore the helmet needs to be by my laptop. Granted, this is not exactly a con, other than I can otherwise leave my helmet out in the garage with my bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it can be quite bumpy, as other people have said. Also light balancing can be a little slow - and the contrast between sky and ground is often high, so this is very noticeable. Basically don't expect Hollywood quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realise that many of these points are cons to do with my memory than a camera, but I would not have thought I was any more forgetful than the next person. I'm basically trying to say that the probability of wanting to use the thing and finding that the battery has discharged is quite high. And I suspect you'll find this typical of a lot of cameras on the market - I specifically considered battery life when I bought mine and 90 mins was about as good as it got. Other points maybe come over as a little flippant, but nevertheless they highlight some of the things to look for if you're making a purchasing decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did put one film on YouTube, which you're welcome to view if it'll help your decision. &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/BQ28fZSjsfM?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not brilliant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a previous commenter has mentioned weight, in my case that's not an issue, the camera weighs next to nothing. One other thing you may find useful is that I have a 16GB card in mine and according to the manufacturers that equates to about 4 hours. So no problem whatsoever about space, given how frequently I need to hook the camera to a pc in any case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this gives you some food for thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2012-12-13T12:22:10.433" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T12:22:10.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2012-12-12T00:49:46.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to stay back of the horse until you see an area up ahead that would allow the rider of the horse to get off of the trail safely. Then you could give the horse rider a friendly shout asking if you could pass them. The horse rider will likely look back and act accordingly to your question. The horse rider knows how their horse will react to someone approaching from behind. The rider will likely get as far off of the trail as necessary according to their horse's demeaner. They don't want to get their horse, theirself or you injured by a spooked horse. Wait until they signal it's okay to proceed around them. Thank them with a wave and proceed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T00:49:46.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-12T12:53:37.160" Score="0" ViewCount="862" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an FSA Gossamer pro MegaExo compact crank set.  Lately, while tightening the bolts on the crank spider, it cracked (see picture).  I know FSA has recalled the left crank because it turned out to crack for the same reason.  Has anyone had the same problem with his right crank?  Does FSA sell spare parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K8o03.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spider crack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5232" LastEditorUserId="5232" LastEditDate="2012-12-12T13:07:00.883" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T12:47:30.707" Title="FSA Gossamer Crank Spider cracked" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;crack&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13569" CreationDate="2012-12-12T15:02:55.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to skip the gear ratio discussion because others have covered it, and it really isn't the most important consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're spinning out frequently, you'll want a higher top gear, but you can only go so high with those cranks-- probably 42, max, on the big chainring. That might be enough to keep your from spinning out while still retaining the capabilities of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to swap out the cranks/chainrings and get something more like a road-bike or cross bike, you will mess with the intended design of the &quot;mountain&quot; bike. There is nothing wrong with doing that but the gears are low on a mountain bike for very good reasons like negotiating stumps, ruts, rocks, mud/gravel and even very short 100% grades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T15:02:55.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13602" CreationDate="2012-12-12T17:32:30.237" Score="4" ViewCount="16914" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F0ThD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sprocket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain keeps wanting to load towards the right hand side of the cog no matter how I orientate the chain. This causes painful skipping. Do the marks have anything to do with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a singulator and I've moved this left-right and even removed it but i still get the same issue: chain loading towards one side and skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5691" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T03:05:28.937" Title="my chain is skipping on my single speed" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13603" CreationDate="2012-12-12T17:54:35.743" Score="17" ViewCount="23954" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to join PC-1 SRAM chain, it has such snaplock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfhVU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the problem is, the distance between holes is slightly less (IMHO) than distance between the pins. Every hole on its own fits any pin, but so far I am unable to put the golden part onto the pins, either one holes fit, or the other -- and I cannot make them both snap at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have manual for this chain, but irony, it describes how to use silver power lock (asymmetric), not this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how to mount it? Should I use tools like pliers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T13:30:56.773" Title="How to mount SRAM snaplock?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13600" CreationDate="2012-12-12T18:01:15.327" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your chain skipping/dropping could be the result of a few things, so I'll lay them out briefly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your chain/freewheel could be worn out. If you recently replaced your chain, the worn out teeth of the freewheel won't mesh with the new chain and will cause skipping. Simply examining the profile of the freewheel teeth with pictures of a new one will give you a sense of whether this is a possibility. (Worn out teeth are sharper at the tops and, in serious wear, form little waves or shark-fins.) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that the chain installed is too narrow for the freewheel teeth (though it would be a &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; noticeable problem.) Muti-speed chains are typically 3/32&quot; wide, while some single speed chains are 1/8&quot; wide. Freewheels are manufactured in both widths. Where one can run a 1/8&quot; chain on either width freewheel, a 3/32&quot; chain will bind noticeably on a 1/8&quot; freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The singulator installed on your bike may not be providing enough chain tension. The actual alignment of this component won't cause the chain to skip as it it on the slack side of the chain. This is an unlikely scenario but could occur if it has been in service for a while or damaged in some way. Replacing the spring will bring it back to original tension specs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;most likely&lt;/strong&gt; thing I can imagine is that your chain-line is off. Your chainring is set further out from the center-line of the bicycle than the freewheel is, causing it to catch on the freewheel teeth and be thrown off. If the bicycle is a homebrewed single-speed, chances are you reused the original crank and bottom bracket spindle that were designed for a multi-speed bike. If this is a store-bought bike, it wasn't set up properly. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is Sheldon Brown's article explaining the chain-line and how it is adjusted. In a nutshell, you will use different BB spindle lengths, BB spacers, and/or chainring spacers to line up the chainring with the freewheel. This can be done easily if you have the right tools and some patience. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6811/how-to-sight-a-chain-line?rq=1&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a SE question relating to adjusting chainlines. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mEzfw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://businesscycles.com/tr-refspec.htm&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T09:54:38.230" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13601" CreationDate="2012-12-12T19:10:38.760" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put link into chain, hold chain on either side, use thumbs to hold snaplock over link. &lt;em&gt;Gently&lt;/em&gt; pull chain using thumbs as fulcrums...this will put pressure on the pins forcing them just a tiny bit inward. Snaplock should slide over. (Think of it kind of like bending but not breaking a pencil...both hands on pencil (chain), thumbs next to each other, gentle pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T19:10:38.760" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13580" CreationDate="2012-12-12T20:21:21.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.warmshowers.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Warmshowers&lt;/a&gt; is certainly not a &quot;social&quot; network in the meaning of socializing only on the internet. But it is an internet-organized network for socializing with other cyclists in the real world. Certainly a good fit to this question's tags &lt;code&gt;touring&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;social&lt;/code&gt;. It's a great opportunity to meet really nice and interesting people - highly recommended!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T20:21:21.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2940" CreationDate="2012-12-12T21:01:51.097" Score="8" Body="&lt;h1&gt;1st option&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution: Have a navigator with you, who has a handlebar bag with a map sleeve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sPvmM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Navig^^^^^Stoker cockpit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Navig^^^^^Stoker cockpit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;2nd option&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I  almost always ride with a handlebar bag, which has a transparent map sleeve on top. Both options on the same picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zHNO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two maps possible, in case you want to go different routes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Two maps possible, in case you want to go different routes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;3rd option&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On trips without handlebar bag, but with low rider panniers, I have used a clear &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.de/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=mapcase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ortlieb map case&lt;/a&gt; strapped on top of one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.de/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=frontrollerplus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;low rider panniers&lt;/a&gt;. For me it is possible to read the important details on the map even at this distance, at least on smooth roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;4th option&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had some of my most interesting days on the road when I deliberately rode home from almost 1000 km away, through an area where I mostly had not been before, without a map or compass. Only road signs, imagination, common sense and asking people. I should really do that again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T21:01:51.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9905" CreationDate="2012-12-13T01:27:04.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a schrader valve, you can buy a &quot;valve stem remover&quot; at most auto parts houses or big box stores auto department. They're inexpensive. It just slips right over the valve stem with the two &quot;forked&quot; prongs slipping in the recessed area of the stem to unscrew the valve stem. These are also handy to make sure the valve stem is snugged up on a schrader valve afte you've inflated the tire. If you remove the valve stem, this would make it easy to roll or fold the tube to remove all possible air. These valve stem removers used to be threaded on their large end, not sure if they are now days, but you could thread the tool onto the proper sized bolt ( thread size and desired length of bolt ), to make it easier to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T01:27:04.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2012-12-13T01:29:36.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use plastic waste baskets, mounted to rear rack by springs. The weight is low over rear tires, for extra stability.Just drill some drain holes and mounting holes through plastic containers, add cord loops, and attach springs to them. Adjust tilt so that pedal  clearance is adequate in turns. P.s.Cable ties turn brittle in cold weather, so don't use them in winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Postscript. For the past year I have used new and better mounting hardware: stainless steel hose clamps attach the baskets to the bike rack. Some supplemental side holes in baskets are drilled to attach the lower parts of baskets to bike triangle using elastic cord. Also, &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NHGNF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side view of baskets with lids&quot;&gt; in the past month I have switched to baskets with flip-top lids that seal out rain and road grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5694" LastEditorUserId="5694" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T13:49:42.300" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T13:49:42.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9641" CreationDate="2012-12-13T03:00:14.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you always wear a sun block of a minimum of a 50 SPF. If you don't like putting a sunscreen on, then a long sleeved shirt such as a hiker would wear that has a built in SPF. One thing we all seem to forget, is the fact that sun exposure is more than the 2 to 4 hour ride on your bike. You may already have spent a total of another hour or two doing outside work at the house or just walking in and out of buildings during the day. This sun exposure all adds up on your skin. I have a friend who virtually lived on his bicycle 7 or 8 months out of the year. A 50 to 60 mile ride daily was nothing to him. And then there was golfing or kayacking before or after the ride. He never wore sun protection and was always really dark tanned all year. A few years ago he began treatments for melonoma on his face and shoulders from the comtinuous exposure while unprotected. He never wore a helmet either. He just develops the melonomas and has them treated when they occur. I always wear SPF 50 sun protection that's &quot;waterproof&quot;, especially when I take the longer rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T03:00:14.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9617" CreationDate="2012-12-13T03:07:30.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have some automatic transmission oil around the garage, especially the newer transmission oil, that would be better than a heavy oil on the chain. The heavier oil will pick up and hold all kinds of dirt from the road. Even some Marvel Mystery Oil ( remember that red stuff you could use for anything around the garage? ), would work well on the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T03:07:30.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-13T10:11:06.347" Score="6" ViewCount="9788" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the last couple of months I've noticed a clicking (well, kinda a clicking, kinda a clicking metallic twang) coming from my handlebars when I pull from side to side - usually when I take off from an intersection or am accelerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're a flat style handle bar with stem somewhat like this (same brand, but the SSR type , so probably slightly cheaper): &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/00744&quot;&gt;http://bontrager.com/model/00744&lt;/a&gt; - with two bolts on the clamping surface between the stem and the handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've undone the clamp between the handlebars and the stem then cleaned the mating surfaces and reassembled it all - making sure the adjustment on the top and bottom bolts is about equal. I didn't clean the threads as there is some blue threadlocker on the threads which seemed useful. This routine makes the sound go away for a day or two, but it inevitably returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on finding and remedying the source of the noise? Or is a new (4 bolt) stem the way to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4737" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T19:33:25.460" Title="Clicking handlebar" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;clicking&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13539" CreationDate="2012-12-13T10:52:59.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The older 80´s road bikes (especially the low end ones that were called &quot;training bikes&quot;) often have massive tire clearance. This means that you can run bigger and more comfortable tires, in the +30mm range or run narrower tires with full length fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4802" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T10:52:59.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2012-12-13T10:53:39.220" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;New aluminum road bikes will help to increase your speed a lot. is not just the rider but a combo of rider and bike that makes up your riding speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5698" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T10:53:39.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13612" CreationDate="2012-12-13T11:31:12.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look for cracks in both the bars and the stem. Have you verfied that the stem to steerertube bolts are are tight? Make sure the front quick release is fully seated and tight. While standing over the top tube apply the front brake firmly. While rocking the bike back and forth do you feel or see any movement in the front forks? Any movement indicates the headset is loose or worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T11:31:12.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13612" CreationDate="2012-12-13T12:20:58.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the newer components, but in the past, especially on road bikes with drop bars, &quot;creaking&quot; has been due to motion between the actual bar and the stiffener that is glued/swaged to the center of the bar.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the noise begins occurring a when a bike is a few months old, and it persists for maybe a year.  It is of no real consequence, other than its annoyance factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T12:20:58.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13557" CreationDate="2012-12-13T16:57:14.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that should work fine. It's typically everything but the cranks that cause shifting incompatibility issues. You will need to shorten your chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5701" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T16:57:14.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13612" CreationDate="2012-12-13T19:33:25.460" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The noise is coming from your handlebars, but in my experience noises can be deceptive. It may be your stem-handlebar interface, but it may not be isolated to that one spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check is that the tabs on the face plate are not meeting the body of the stem when everything is torqued down. If you can see a gap there, you should be ok. If they are touching, however, the final torque will do nothing to hold the bar in place. This is sometimes a problem when new handlebars/stems are installed with parts that are spec'd a few millimeters off (i.e. in the example stem you provided, the bar clamp is 25.4 mm. If one were to replace it with a road stem with a 26.0 mm clamp, it may fit well enough to hold the bar without translating all of the tightening torque to the clamp area.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another component to investigate is the headset. Lots of headsets are press-fit items and if the fit is poor, the races will make noise. This would be noticeable if you were to hold the front wheel with your knees and pull the bars side to side. It may not be apparent from examining with everything in tact, so some amount of disassembly may be required. A sign of a poor headset fit is fretting marks on the head tube. You can find Loctite or similar products designed for press-fit applications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another headset issue that may be causing your clicking is indexing, or brinneling. This occurs when the ball bearings, usually in the lower race, wear evenly spaced dents into the bearing surface of the lower frame cup. This is more noticed in steering, but if the headset is over tightened enough, it may 'click' into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the issue persists, check your front hub to make sure the cones haven't become loose. This would allow the wheel to move slightly side-to-side making a noticeable tick. If you have a suspension fork, check to see that the stanchions haven't become loose in any way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further muddy the water, you may want to check the frame very thoroughly for cracks or dents, especially around the headtube welds. This may not cause a noticeable click all the time, but a visual inspection will save you lots of headache if you find it early. If the frame is anything but steel, consider trashing it. Some frame materials have a tendency to fail catastrophically and unexpectedly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails and your certain the clicking is coming from your handlebars/stem, replace them. They're expendable items with a definite lifespan. A failed handlebar or stem will almost always cause a serious crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T19:33:25.460" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13630" CreationDate="2012-12-13T21:16:07.157" Score="11" ViewCount="10094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't ride particularly fancy bikes, but I do ride in New York City, so I'm interested in securing the components on my bikes without using a ton of locks. Most security bolts products cost a bunch of money, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know of affordable sources for security button-head or socket-head M5 and M6 bolts, or M10x1mm nuts, especially in stainless steel? McMaster-Carr only has them in English thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T14:00:09.720" Title="Affordable security nuts and bolts" Tags="&lt;security&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-09-11T20:28:23.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13619" CreationDate="2012-12-13T21:29:52.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can find some ball bearings that just fit into the allen key sockets, then you lube them up with thick grease, it's quite difficult to remove them. Use a magnet to get them out.  Although I imagine a good bike thief would carry a magnet because this trick is quite common.  You can also replace your quick release skewers with allen key skewers.  They wouldn't be the most secure solution, but they would work better than quick release skewers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use nutted wheels, you can pick up some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tufnutworks.com/subcategory.aspx?id=34&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;security nuts&lt;/a&gt; for a lot cheaper than you can buy security skewers. Check you local professional tool supply store and you can probably buy them by the piece for a couple bucks each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also sell &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=15860&amp;amp;category=160&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;security skewers&lt;/a&gt; which are cheaper than pitlock. The disadvantage over pitlock is that they all use the same specialized tool to remove whereas pitlock has 256 differently shaped pits available.  So they would be safer than quick release, allen key or hex nut, but less so that pitlock.  And almost definitely safer than the bike next to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-12-14T01:52:48.230" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T01:52:48.230" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2012-12-13T21:52:32.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd definitely go with a trailer, and this past summer I found out why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bspbikes.com/product/chariot-carriers-cougar-2-chassis-54707-1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chariot Cougar 2&lt;/a&gt; for among other things, hauling our kids around. Last year we decided to go bike-camping, my wife pulling our gear and me pulling the kids. It didn't work out quite so well, and I couldn't bike, so we decided instead to go to my father in law's place and take his car. My wife still hauled the gear out to his place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All our gear fit in the trailer, just. Putting it into the car demonstrated that the capacity of the trailer and his trunk was pretty much equal. He drives an old Buick sedan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we go grocery shopping, the trailer likewise gets packed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2442" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T21:52:32.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13563" CreationDate="2012-12-13T22:13:53.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would work with my pannier set. I have Axiom Monsoon panniers with a hook at the bottom that would fit right about there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2442" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T22:13:53.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10008" CreationDate="2012-12-14T02:39:49.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Sunscreen pros&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allows use only on body locations preferred.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can alter the SPF to whatever the situation requires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be used for other outdoor activities besides cycling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Sunscreen cons&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The price can be rather high for a SPF above 35.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will come off with sweat and will need to be re-applied during a longer ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must keep it out of your eyes!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;UV protective clothing pros&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protects without feeling &amp;quot;clammy&amp;quot;, greasy like a sunscreen can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You won't have to worry about re-applying sunscreen during a ride, although you may still need some sunscreen for your neck and ear area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can actually move the sweat away from your skin for better cooling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;UV protective clothing cons&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The UV protective clothing can be expensive initially.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May need to be laundered using special UV detergent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Usually loses the UV protection capability after a certain number of washings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really boils down to personal preference, or using a combination of the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T18:52:08.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13619" CreationDate="2012-12-14T14:16:12.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assess the risk for the single parts, and start with the most risky ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Wheels&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/pitlock.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pitlock&lt;/a&gt; skewers work very well and will outlive a couple of bicycles. In comparison to wheels interesting enough for a bike parts thieve, they are cheap. There are cheaper replacement skewers which are not as safe (basically variations of allen key bolts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Saddle&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second most stolen part seems to be saddle and seat post. You can attach the saddle rail(s) to the frame using a piece of an old chain, without a chain lock of course. Nicer looking options include, of course, Pitlock (a seat post clamp bold and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.de/shop/weitere-sets/set-14-sattel-direkt/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cover for the seat clamping bolt&lt;/a&gt;). Alternatively use a separate lock cable through the seat rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Stem and handlebars&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it gets harder. An ahead stem can be fixed using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.de/shop/weitere-sets/set-09-ahead/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pitlock insert&lt;/a&gt;. Still, the stem/handlebars connection is there, too. Maybe the bearing ball option mentioned in another answer is the way to go here, and even for the bolts of the precious shifting and brake levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Drivetrain&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is hard. A lot of simple bolts, and potentially valuable parts. I would instead use cheap derailleurs (with good cables and proper assembly they will work very well). A cheap crank set upgraded with good quality chainrings when the first set is worn out does not look attractive for thieves either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Camouflage&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapest option, and working very well: Don't let the bike look good. Stickers, tape, dirt, rust, weird colors all have their place. Be creative! In Germany we call it &lt;a href=&quot;http://borumat.de/fahrrad-diebstahlschutz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boruttisieren&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&amp;amp;tl=en&amp;amp;js=n&amp;amp;prev=_t&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;eotf=1&amp;amp;u=http://borumat.de/fahrrad-diebstahlschutz&amp;amp;act=url&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;translated by Google&lt;/a&gt;), after the guy who brought the concept to perfection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Behaviour&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as there is are enough more attractive victims nearby, your bike is pretty safe. Take that into account when leaving the bike somewhere. If it still is attractive to a thieve, it will help if you don't leave your bike in a predictable manner, e.g. not at the same place during work time monday to friday etc. That makes it pointless for the thieve to prepare (e.g. by taking a magnet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T14:16:12.283" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2012-12-14T18:17:00.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a decal, it was applied by first putting it in HOT water, then put in place. I use the exact opposite to remove these. Get a rag soaked in HOT water, steaming or boiling, and wrap or cover the decal. It will slip lose in short order, say a 10-30 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a sticker, you can heat it with a hair blow-dryer until it's soft, then peel it away. You'll need something to remove the sticker's glue, though. It's messy, and likely to mar or dull your paint job. The Wall-Mart adhesive remover mentioned above should be nice for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally wouldn't bother with sticker/decal removal unless I want to custom-paint the machine, but your mileage will vary on this. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5710" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T18:17:00.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13551" CreationDate="2012-12-14T18:56:36.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I've had my bike stolen, the police were mostly dismissive, or had helpful advice that should have protected me &quot;next time&quot; but typically, didn't (My most recent theft was from an enclosed and non-obvious bike room in my complex's underground parking, locked with a U-lock). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least, you know who did it. Most of the time, you're not so lucky. I would press charges for that reason alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the police's assessment that little to nothing will come of it, that's correct. In my jurisdiction, stealing a $1200 bike is no different from stealing a chocolate bar at a convenience store from the point of view of the law. It's all covered under the law for &quot;Theft under $5000&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2442" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T18:56:36.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1257" CreationDate="2012-12-14T19:05:10.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Chariot brand trailer hitch is the best one I've ever seen, and you can buy it independent of owing a Chariot trailer. They are the safest, easiest to use, and just simplest trailer hitches you can find. You just mount it on your axle like a washer, hitch the trailer into the cup part, and slip in a retaining bolt. You have exactly no worries about the hitch coming off the bike unless the hitch arm or &quot;lollipop&quot; break somehow, and even then there's a backup strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCQpP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nCQpP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image stolen from amazon&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Original image link:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikekidshop.com/cart/images/chariot-bike-trailer-hitch-assembly-upgrade-kit-stock-2-M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikekidshop.com/cart/images/chariot-bike-trailer-hitch-assembly-upgrade-kit-stock-2-M.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy this kit for about $50 at places that sell Chariot stuff, or you can buy the parts separately. I'd go for the full kit, especially if you're building your own trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2442" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T02:51:18.923" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T02:51:18.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13619" CreationDate="2012-12-14T19:13:17.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did a little more digging myself, and found a promising source for bike-sized stainless security Torx bolts:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebolts.com/collections/bicycle_bolts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclebolts.com/collections/bicycle_bolts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure putting a security bolt on one side of each of my racks, in the binder bolt and seat bolt, and in the headset bolt would be pretty good deterrence while still making the bike easy enough to adjust. Security Torx aren't the hardest driver bits for a thief to get their hands on, but a bike thief isn't that likely to carry them around, and my parts aren't fancy enough to be worth a trip to Home Depot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also found what looks to be a very small British manufacturer of security axle nuts:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.seclock.co.uk/Seclock/Bicycle_Nuts_1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.seclock.co.uk/Seclock/Bicycle_Nuts_1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't look easy to get a grip on with vice grips, and if the tool needs to be ordered from abroad, it's probably not going to be common on the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In researching the Pinhead skewers, they are apparently relatively simple to defeat with a &quot;Gator Grip&quot; tool, and this is supposedly known to thieves at least in the SF area. I have seen it claimed that newer ones come with a security washer as a countermeasure to this attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T19:13:17.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2012-12-14T22:52:58.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can loosen the back wheel's axle then pull it back so the chain is tight.  After you do this you can tighten it in place.  If the back axle nut is rusted and stuck, you must buy a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5713" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T04:31:58.443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T04:31:58.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1257" CreationDate="2012-12-14T23:29:17.787" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also go the commercial route, buying the hitch and building only the trailer itself. The handling (during cycling) of an axle attached trailer is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; better than if you attach it on the seat post. Handling is best if the hitch parts can move as little as possible relative to each other. The Chariot hitch is pretty good, especially considering the fact that only one axle/quick release module fits a wide range of dropout designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, everything can be improved: The German company &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weber-products.de/produkte/kupplungssysteme/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Weber&lt;/a&gt; makes a hitch system with the following highlights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extremely rigid connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very simple and fast to use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fits most frames &lt;em&gt;perfectly&lt;/em&gt; by providing different frame/quick release attachment parts, even for geared hubs etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fits basically any drawbar, by providing inserts for any commonly used tubing size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can easily be locked (although the lock won't scare a good lock picker)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an integrated bike stand is available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quality and safety are top notch, and the parts last a long time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bwaVl.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bwaVl.png&quot; alt=&quot;Weber bicycle trailer hitch diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weber hitches are easy to get hold of in Germany. It should be possible to get them exported to almost everywhere. Unfortunately the information is in German only, and the system is rather complex with all the different frame and drawbar fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T03:41:42.923" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T03:41:42.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13551" CreationDate="2012-12-14T23:58:53.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the police are probably correct. It's probably a waste of time trying to prosecute her. It's fortunate that you didn't lose any property. What is likely to happen here, is that in a few years, the police will likely be dealing with this girl again. Only this time, the theft won't be of a bicycle, but a vehicle! She'll feel like she got away with an attempted theft one time ( who know's, maybe this is just the first time she was caught! ), and have a similar exceuse the next time she's caught. The police and her mother and grandmother are doing her no favors at all. I'd bet they knew the bicycle isn't &quot;just like hers!&quot; She'll likely see the inside of a jail cell in the not too distant future. Glad it turned out for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T23:58:53.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13551" CreationDate="2012-12-15T01:15:02.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;imho, you should press charges - this will help to make world around you a little safer place. By not pressing charges you will send a wrong signal to the thief and to the police&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The broken windows&lt;/strong&gt; theory is a criminological theory of the norm-setting and signaling effect of urban disorder and vandalism on additional crime and anti-social behavior. The theory states that maintaining and monitoring urban environments in a well-ordered condition may stop further vandalism and escalation into more serious crime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3320" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T01:15:02.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13551" CreationDate="2012-12-15T15:38:34.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had bikes stolen in SF too and it sucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get some reusable zip ties, and zip tie your bike to the rack.  That way, a thief has to also come up with a plausible reason why they disabled your locking mechanism to get at your bike, and you have a bit more time to get out of the bus and after them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On proceeding in this case, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_8304658_sue-someone-stole-stuff.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;How to Sue Someone Who Stole Your Stuff&quot;&lt;/a&gt; suggests you may be able to pursue civil penalties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You have two options when seeking to sue someone who you believe has stolen your possessions: contact your local district attorney to file charges or file a lawsuit in civil court. If the amount is relatively small (generally under $5,000) you can file an action in small claims court, which is a streamlined and simplified system where you do not necessarily need an attorney. Note that you do not have to choose between civil or criminal enforcement, they can both proceed simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a civil suit you need to show that you were somehow adversely affected by her actions.  If there was any damage to the bike, you could probably go after her for the cost of repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4126" LastEditorUserId="4126" LastEditDate="2012-12-15T15:45:13.067" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T15:45:13.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-15T21:51:10.940" Score="2" ViewCount="4004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Garmin Edge 500 cycle computer. For most parts I'm quite happy with it. Besides the issue of it not finding GPS from time to time there is one thing which really drives me crazy: When switching between my bikes I have to go through 5 or so menus to get to the option to pick another bike. Without doing that it won't recognize the bike sensors. Over time I had quite a few cases where I didn't realize I forgot to configure it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't image it too be too complicated software-wise to scan for all known bike sensors and automatically switch over (or ask the user &quot;hey I'm seeing other sensors, should I switch to that bike?&quot;) so I wonder if there are folks working on alternative firmware which offers such features or where one could contribute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T15:21:57.100" Title="Alternative Firmware for Garmin Edge 500" Tags="&lt;software&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13637" CreationDate="2012-12-15T23:14:38.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Garmin do not publish the firmware or provide support for community modifications, and actually seem to be killing off the one community feature they had allowed (the ability to use non Garmin maps) in some areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice - buy another device for the other bike, or just accept that navigating through 5 menus isn't really that bad:-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T23:14:38.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3912" CreationDate="2012-12-16T01:26:41.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the newer &quot;hybrid&quot; pedals that have both a clipless side and a platform side with grip for regular street shoes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycling.about.com/od/allaboutyourbike/ss/bike_pedals_8.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bicycling.about.com/od/allaboutyourbike/ss/bike_pedals_8.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T01:26:41.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13573" CreationDate="2012-12-16T01:57:33.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a few years of riding in the streets, I have found that cars will do stupid things no matter how obvious you are to them. Have you ever seen a car pull out in front of a semi? I have, those things are BIG!! For the most part, you might be able to get someone's attention after a few attempts at whatever you decide to use, sounds or lights, but in the end, you should know that it is YOUR ability to avoid the other car that will save your life and not your ability to get the driver's attention. If you try unsuccessfully to get their attention, do NOT just go in front of them and say, dang, I tried... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spent a few years in San Francisco as a street rider, before the X-Games we rode BMX in the streets, jumping curbs and such. We just have to assume that cars WILL NOT SEE YOU! We learned to ride in a way that the cars could not hit you even in they were trying. There are some riders that are jerks and cut cars off, but those are the few (same percent of road bikes I am guessing). I even ride a big cruiser motorcycle with extra loud pipes and over bright headlight and still have people cut in front of me, it will happen no matter what you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to stay safe. Try and get their attention, but if you can't don't insist on the right of way, figure other ways around the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastEditorUserId="3949" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T10:51:14.110" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T10:51:14.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3815" CreationDate="2012-12-16T02:08:00.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should NEVER repair any bike helmet under any circumstances! The helmet manufacturers even recommend replacing a helmet after several years of use. ( Imagine that! ) I don't replace my helmet that often, but do inspect it for structural damage, which occurrs mostly with the styrofoam liner that begins deterorating after some days in the sun and sweat/oils from the skin. I guess we all have to ask ourselves...how much is my head worth if there's an accident? I doubt anyone thinks their head isn't at least worth the $50 to $100 price tag of a helmet every 5 or so years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T02:08:00.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13637" CreationDate="2012-12-16T15:21:57.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love my Edge 500 and just use the GPS, no sensors needed, I get speed and distance and a great map after uploading, just no cadence (I am aware that the speed/cadence sensor does give better speed/distance but I like the ease of using the device on all my bikes without having to buy and pair extra sensors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as GPS signal, I turn it on and set in a window sill, or outside while I get ready and the GPS signal is always ready before I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do update the firmware and add new features (latest is a bunch of Power stuff, but has known elevation issues). The feature you ask for may be coming on newer equipment, or even firmware updates in the future from Garmin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can share your idea with Garmin yourself here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www8.garmin.com/contactUs/ideas/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www8.garmin.com/contactUs/ideas/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T15:21:57.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3912" CreationDate="2012-12-16T20:11:01.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used the Forte Campus/Nashbar Rodeo/Wellgo WPD-95B (all are similar Wellgo dual sided SPD clones with different brand names) for thousands of miles, and am very satisfied with them. There's also the Nashbar Highlander if you want a big BMX-type body on the pedal. All can be found for $30 or so; the Rodeo is on sale for $20 right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T20:11:01.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="761" CreationDate="2012-12-16T20:33:05.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a new website/download/software package called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trainerroad.com/&quot;&gt;TrainerRoad&lt;/a&gt; that will allow you to train with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trainerroad.com/virtual-power&quot;&gt;Virtual Power&lt;/a&gt; for the price of a Trainer, ANT+ stick, Speed/Cadence sensor and $10/month subscription. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checkout the compatible hardware page (linked on the main page) to see if you already have a trainer on their list of known power curves. If not the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine has a very consistent power curve and is available just over $300.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add an ANT+ stick ($20-$40 online) to plug into your computer, it will pickup the signal from the speed/cadence sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a Speed/Cadence sensor (Garmin $25+ - Timex $37+)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional (for virtual power) is an ANT+ HR strap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could start to use the Virtual Power (with nothing but your bike and computer to start with) for under $400, much less if you already have a compatible trainer. The $10 subscription can be canceled anytime and they offer a 30 day money back guarantee, so almost free to try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T20:33:05.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="60" CreationDate="2012-12-16T21:47:16.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean the bike, air the tires to a normal pressure, and make sure everything's lubricated that should be. Try to store it in an inside location that you are in every day. Nothing like deciding to get your bike out of storage, only to find that it's missing! If it's going to be sitting on the floor, then some type of cover may be appropriate to keep any dust or dirt away from the bike. If you can secure it with the normal bike lock, that would be an added prevention of theft. After a couple of months, all you should need to do is air up the tires and look forward to a ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T21:47:16.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="51" CreationDate="2012-12-16T21:57:52.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The saddle can be moved forward or backwards too, besides being raised or lowered. Here is a link form Sheldon Brown on the adjustments of a saddle to the rider on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T21:57:52.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2012-12-16T22:10:53.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible that there is a small shard of glass or metal imbedded in the tire that you're missing. That's the only thing I can think of since you've checked the other obvious potential problem areas. Mark the position of the valve stem to the tire and the remove the tube a check for that slow leak. Hopefully you'll find a small hole that's causing the problem. Then allign the valve stem mark to the tire so you can check the area of the tire where the leak showed up for a shard of glass or metal. If nothing is visible from the outside, carefully feel the tire carcass with a finger on the inside to see if you can feel anything that is sharp poking through the carcass. Remove anything you feel and hopefully you can patch the tube and not have that slow leak any more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T22:10:53.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13663" CreationDate="2012-12-17T00:06:36.140" Score="13" ViewCount="3307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute to work regularly. I find that on some days when there's no perceivable wind, I feel like there's almost no air resistance at all and it's so easy to ride at speed. It's also relatively quiet without the wind roaring in my ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On other days when there's no perceivable wind, it feels like I'm riding in soup. It's really hard to get any speed up and the air is quite noisy in my ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've discussed with my co workers and they often say they have the same effect on the same days as I've observed. Although they're also travelling in the same direction as me, so I can't rule out a very slight headwind causing the perceived difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible explanations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a slight tail or head wind on these days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On days that I'm more rested or energetic I could feel like the ride is relatively effortless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other explanations that would contribute? High humidity or a high pressure zones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T14:33:52.797" Title="What would cause variable air resistance on a day with no wind?" Tags="&lt;aerodynamics&gt;&lt;wind&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13648" CreationDate="2012-12-17T00:53:55.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though the physicists tell us we're full of it, many cyclists at least &quot;perceive&quot; that wind resistance is greater on relatively humid but cool mornings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And, of course, if you and your co-workers were out drinking together the night before, that could have something to do with it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T00:53:55.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13648" CreationDate="2012-12-17T01:25:24.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On high humidity days, the air has less mass due to the more H2O, which is lighter than typical O2, CO2 and N2 weights.  On high pressure days there is more mass for you to push aside. Air temperature also plays a part - hot air is less dense than cold air. Therefore a hot, low pressure, high humidity day requires less mass to be pushed aside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These make a measurable difference to aircraft, however I have no idea if a cyclist travels fast enough for it to be measurable. I believe its more likely imperceptible wind and your own well being (or lack there of)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T01:25:24.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13652" CreationDate="2012-12-17T02:48:00.090" Score="3" ViewCount="4581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 94 Giant ATX. Threaded 1 inch steeering tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need a shorter stem, and would also like to install a suspension fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it doable? Could I take a modern suspension fork, heat the crown, smash the steering tube out, install a 1&quot; tube (with some added metal so that the outer diameter is 1&quot; 1/8) the get rid of the threaded headset and install a threadless 1&quot; headset (does it even exist?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that I'm in Argentina, and it's very difficult to get parts from US shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5718" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T13:53:27.687" Title="Is it possible to replace a 1 1/8 steering tube with a 1&quot;?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13651" CreationDate="2012-12-17T03:54:55.967" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to recommend that you NOT do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were in the past manufacturers of 1&quot; steerer suspension forks - though I'm not certain that they're are still sold. It is important to note that bicycle frames built to accept solid steel forks have different geometry than those built for suspension forks. The frame is designed for a fork that doesn't have suspension travel - the head tube is taller, the down tube and top tube are welded to preserve the set geometry of the bike. Installing a suspension fork would lift the front of the frame up and slacken the head tube angles - overall, I suppose it isn't a huge deal...HOWEVER...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're having a hard time finding bike parts, will finding a 1&quot; steerer tube, a suspension fork that has a brazed steerer tube, a bushing that is machined to fit precisely and a machinist to make your bushing, and someone to braze this all together be any easier than finding a more modern bike frame or a used 1&quot; suspension fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to remove the steerer from the suspension fork if it is brazed in, but retrofitting a new steerer tube will require a bushing machined to VERY precise tolerances to allow for heat expansion and brazing filler flow. Any valves, adjusters, stanchion caps...anything not brazed or welded to the fork crown will have to be removed to prevent any damage while heating. You'll want this done professionally because a failure while riding would be regrettable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the amount of work involved, it may be more cost effective to track down a mountain bike frame with a 1-1/8&quot; suspension-ready head tube or just have someone replace the head tube in your existing frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it may not be too difficult to find an affordable bicycle in Argentina. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com.ar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the distributor for Giant bikes in Argentina. You can email them at: info@giant-bicycles.com.ar. You can locate Giant vendors by province &lt;a href=&quot;http://giant-bicycles.com.ar/2011/giant_center.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. If Giant is represented there, you'll likely find other companies and reputable bike shops who can order you frames, parts, bikes, you name it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f10/so-im-thinking-about-brazing-fork-13019.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a forum thread detailing fork building. The most important point is the fit of the steerer to the crown. If it is too tight, the brazing filler won't flow evenly and consistently, too loose and the integrity of the braze is compromised. If you do decide to do this, definitely try it more than once. The first two or three you should cut up to inspect the brazing filler flow (cut lengthwise and try to pull the pieces apart. Bubbles, seams, and burnt flux are all signs of a poor joint.) There is a comment about brake bolts and wedges being used to prevent steerers from pulling out of the crown, but I wouldn't risk it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T17:41:11.963" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T17:41:11.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13657" CreationDate="2012-12-17T06:22:17.283" Score="4" ViewCount="3294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to use my bicycle 5 days a week to get to work and back, approximately 30 minutes(~6 miles /10 km) one way, mostly good/ok roads but with some bumps here and there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I care about cx bicycles because of not perfect road conditions or typical road bicycle would be able to endure? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't care about comfort that much and only carry my laptop with me in a backpack, so my priority is to get from one point to another and do it fast. Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5720" LastEditorUserId="3140" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T19:19:20.957" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T19:19:20.957" Title="Bicycle for 2 x 30mins commute" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13658" CreationDate="2012-12-17T07:51:15.757" Score="8" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to find a replace crank set to replace the SR Suntour set that came on my bike. The chain rings were riveted together so on bending one I had to replace the set. There's very few 7 speed crank sets for a 118mm spindle and separate chain rings. I would like to fit a Shimano M410 on a 113mm bb. This will alter the chain line by 2.5mm, will this be an issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T12:18:44.570" Title="How far off a chain line can I go?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2012-12-17T08:22:48.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on how big the bumps are.  You might want to stay away from a full carbon bike as they are rigid and you will feel everything.  You can get &quot;Roubaix&quot; style that are built for a bumpier ride.  When you say road bike I assume you mean racing style.  A tourer or hybrid may also do the job but the fastest will be a racer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T08:22:48.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2012-12-17T08:30:30.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A nice hybrid bike will be OK. IMHO you shouldn't spend more then 400$ (if you plan to use it only for commuting), but not less then 200$ (or you'll get total crap). Just remember to clean &amp;amp; lube your chain every 2 weeks and it'll last you for a few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T08:30:30.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2012-12-17T10:46:47.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 10K commute is pretty short, I would say almost too short for a racing style bike for several reasons. I would recommend you look at tourer or hybrid bikes. Allow me to explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you are not really interested in comfort. I assume you will ride in your regular clothes. This is a bad combination. When done regularly, no matter the amount of discomfort you are prepared to take. A hard saddle and stiff frame, combined with the seams-in-stupid-places of your regular outfit will wear you down. Moreover, 5 days a week, regardless of weather means dirt everywhere, even on paved roads. Your clothes will get dirty, and you might even get mud in your hair, so you'd need to shower. But with a 10K commute the time it takes to change clothes and shower takes up a significant part of the total time you spend commuting. (if showers are available at your place of work). Some comfort -a good saddle and fenders- will save you time and pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is the matter of durability. Think about the appointment you will miss because you had a flat 5K into your commute and you had to either walk 5K or take the time to fix the flat. This is just one of the many things that can break. Remember: &quot;regardless of the weather&quot; so dirt will accumulate, oil will wash off, things might rust. I expect you are not going to spend every weekend meticulously cleaning, checking and oiling everything, so you want durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion for a good commuter bike for 10K one way in your regular clothes would be a touring bike with full fenders (to keep away the mud) a chain guard, puncture proof road tires and a relatively comfortable saddle. This will be heavier, so your top speed will be lower, but any time that costs you you'll easily gain not showering, changing clothes, and fixing your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T10:46:47.967" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13654" CreationDate="2012-12-17T12:18:44.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;2.5mm would not be a serious issue.  You may find the &quot;sweet spot&quot; in your gearing changes a little to favor the larger rear sprockets, but so long as you don't run a lot in your top-most gear this should not be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T12:18:44.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2012-12-17T12:28:20.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It ain't that simple. :) You want to ride fast, but your estimated 30min duration would mean a 20km/h pace, which is quite leisurely. Are you going to take a shower and change clothes afterwards? If you're going to ride at a 35km/h pace, you'll save 13 minutes from the commute, which you will then spend at the shower and locker room. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for the slower pace I'd suggest a higher end &quot;hybrid&quot; with rigid front fork and larger (30mm) tyres, somewhat upright riding position and fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For faster pace, either a CX or road bike. Doesn't really matter. They can handle the rough patches too. A CX bike might fit fenders better, which are a really nice option on a commuter. If you go for the road bike get as wide tyres as it fits. IMO using 23mm tyres on a commuter bike is just silly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, expect to spend $200 on clothes and shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4802" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T12:28:20.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2012-12-17T13:00:02.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nobody so far has mentioned a single-speed or fixed-wheel bike but if your commute is pretty flat it may be worth considering. The reason for going for one over geared bikes would be the added simplicity of not having derailleurs to maintain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider my fixie ideal for commuting - its steel so can handle a few bumps, and although I ride 23mm tyres (the roads in London are perfect!), I think it ships out of the factory on 32mm which should be quite absorbent. I can get into a decent position on it and (depending on traffic) can go at speed...also its great fun to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T13:00:02.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13665" CreationDate="2012-12-17T13:41:12.600" Score="5" ViewCount="25005" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motivation&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/13652/3927&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; says that installing a rigid fork on a frame, designed for a suspension, changes the geometry. Most answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12450/badly-rusted-suspension-fork&quot;&gt;my question about rusted-out suspension&lt;/a&gt; recommend installing rigid suspension for riding in the rain and snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What changes to the feel of riding should I expect when changing a low to medium (80-100mm) travel suspension fork for a rigid fork? My bike is this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmyD9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T20:31:51.760" Title="Installing a rigid fork on a commuter MTB" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13661" CreationDate="2012-12-17T15:40:27.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surly has suspension corrected forks for mountain bikes, try 1x1 fork for 26in or ogre or karate monkey for 29er.  Check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/category/forks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/parts/category/forks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T15:40:27.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13648" CreationDate="2012-12-17T19:08:43.567" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;TLDR; assuming my calculations below are correct, there's roughly a 10% increase in air resistance between hot, humid days, and cool, dry days. Add in a slight but imperceptible tailwind or headwind, and it's conceivable that you could experience a 4–5mph difference in cruising speed between two days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air resistance is the primary force a cyclist must overcome at typical cruising speeds. According to one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mne.psu.edu/lamancusa/proddiss/bicycle/bikecalc1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online calculator&lt;/a&gt;, assuming a typical road bike, a relaxed riding position, and a cruising speed of 18mph, 75% of a rider's power is used to overcome drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to your profile, you live in Melbourne, AU, which is essentially at sea level. Using another &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.denysschen.com/catalogue/density.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online calculator&lt;/a&gt;, the air density when it's 50˚ and 0% humidity is 1.24kg/m&amp;sup3;. When it's 90˚ and 100% humidity, the air density is 1.13kg/m&amp;sup3;. So, on a cold and dry day, there's roughly a 10% increase in air resistance when compared to a hot and humid day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the drag equation,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/math/2/8/5/28560fb9ccae7b5f811de11f965d5478.png&quot; alt=&quot;F_D = \frac{1}{2} \pho v^2 C_d A&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the drag force scales linearly with air pressure. 10% higher density equals 10% higher force necessary to overcome drag. Instantaneous power is determined by the equation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/math/5/2/f/52fb1b1ca16b46632798b51077d8f89f.png&quot; alt=&quot;P(t) = F \cdot v&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming constant power output, and 75% of that power is dedicated to overcoming air resistance, you end up with roughly a 7% reduction (1 / 1.075) in overall speed. We started with a cruising speed of 18mph, so simplistically your speed on a cold and dry day would wind up being 93% of 18mph, or 16.75mph. I'd say that's enough to notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it seems unlikely that these two days would occur closely together. But if you're comparing a midday ride just before or after a storm to a late evening ride on a dry day a few days before and/or after, it's conceivable that you could wind up somewhere in the ballpark of a 1mph difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, even a small headwind and tailwind can make a significant difference in your speed. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/wind.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon's site&lt;/a&gt; has graphs showing wind tunnel tests. In particular,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ddgwu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wind tunnel tests&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;shows that as the wind angle changes from a headwind to a tailwind for a 5mph wind, a rider traveling at a &quot;normalized&quot; speed of 25mph (assuming no wind) would go from roughly 22mph to 28mph. The difference in rider velocity as wind velocity changes seems to be linear, so extrapolating backward, even something like a 2mph headwind vs. tailwind would cause something like a 3mph difference. That's definitely noticeable. Being in a wind tunnel, these tests weren't done with rolling resistance, so 25mph in the wind tunnel is probably equivalent to our earlier assumption of 18mph on outdoor roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you combine the effects, and compare a late evening ride on a dry day with a slight headwind, to a early afternoon ride on a humid day with a slight tailwind, you could conceivably have a difference of 4-5mph between the two days. That's huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-25T14:33:52.797" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T14:33:52.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13667" CreationDate="2012-12-17T19:23:30.320" Score="0" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding a new set of air forks on a hard tail for a couple of weeks and have decided they're a bit too hard without any preload (riding xc). They were pumped to roughly the setting for my weight. A work colleague said there was a way to fine tune them using a cable tie over a number of rides, I can find some MX information but nothing MTB specific. Does anyone have further information on the best way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the idea, but want further detail on such as should I set at the mid range of pre load so I can go softer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T20:57:51.490" Title="Fine tuning forks" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13661" CreationDate="2012-12-17T20:31:51.760" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the correct fork is chosen , the bikes geometry will change. A rigid fork built for a bike designed for rigid forks has a smaller axle to crown measurement than a suspension fork. If your bike is designed for 100mm travel suspension, and you put &quot;any old&quot; rigid fork on, the front of you bike will be 100mm lower than it is now. Even if you correct this in the Steerer/stem/handlebars, this will be enough to upset the rake and therefore alter the handling of the bike.  (refer @Benzo for the answer to this problem) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike will (should) be significantly lighter with the benefits that go with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding smooth pavement, the changes will be you feel more bumps, and need to use you arms to absorb and control the front of the bike if you hit small bumps in corners. Tyre choice and pressure becomes more important, as does attention to the surface ahead of you. The big gain is that you bike is more efficient - no soft squashy absorbing energy in the front end (even locked out suspension moves) - you will go faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off road riding is a completely different ball game. If you are used to suspension and riding bumpy ground hard, you will need to change you style. Expect a few prangs along the way. When riding suspension, you weigh it in corners and let the shocks hold the front wheel on the ground over the bumps. Without suspension, the same technique will lead to the front wheel bouncing and loosing traction, with predictable consequences..... You need to learn to let your arms become the suspension, and your arms need to control the front wheel no only in direction, but &quot;height&quot; and &quot;pressure on ground&quot;. The term &quot;loose&quot; takes in a new meaning. It requires more skill and concentration, and far more attention to detail than riding a suspension setup give, as well as being physically harder, but also in some ways, more rewarding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T20:31:51.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13664" CreationDate="2012-12-17T20:56:30.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should set the preload to to give the correct amount of sag on the fork when you are sat on it (usually 20-30%) - and then there shouldn't be a reason to touch it again (unless your weight changes dramatically of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if your forks feel hard, it means the compression is too high.  Your fork's damping cartridge has an 'Absolute+' feature which means you have a 5-position knob on the top of one of the legs which allows you to tweak it somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T20:56:30.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13664" CreationDate="2012-12-17T20:57:51.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you riding too light on the front wheel? Have a look at you riding style - are you loading the front wheel into corners? If you are not, then the shocks will feel too hard (front wheel will bounce). Maybe this is the problem. If you get a chance, get someone who rides a lot to have a look at your riding, ideally get some coaching. If your style is correct and you do ride &quot;light&quot; on the front then softer may be for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attach a cable tie around the staunchen and slide it down a low as it goes. head out for a ride. At the end of the ride see how high it has traveled. The idea is that you use the full range of travel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be scared to soften them up. Note that suspension setting is not a science, each rider has preferences and styles that dictate you set the forks how you like them. The suggestions in the book are just that - suggestions. If you are 75kg, super fit  and ride hard, fast and &quot;heavy&quot;, you might need higher compression / damping, if you are 75 kg, and an unfit and slow and timid- lower might be better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for XC you may decide to trade travel for efficiency - particularly on smooth, fast groomed trails - and stiffen the forks.  I ride some local groomed trails with lockout because there is no advantage in having 50mm, let alone 100mm travel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T20:57:51.490" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13486" CreationDate="2012-12-18T01:11:40.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try Chafeaway for friction and chafing of the skin.  It is an actual peel and stick body wrap. You can cut it to fit any part of the body. they sell it on Ebay...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5724" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T01:11:40.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13619" CreationDate="2012-12-18T14:18:15.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wide range of security bolts and nuts, together with technical information and videos are displayed on this site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.securityfasteners.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.securityfasteners.net&lt;/a&gt;. You mentioned socket button screws in your post - the site has information on the security pinned versions as well as other security screws. Hopefully you'll find it useful for making a decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5727" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T14:18:15.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2012-12-18T17:15:41.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer would depend on how secure your bike will be once you lock it up at work. Is it locked up outside? What are the odds it will be stolen? The greater the odds it will be stolen, the cheaper the bike you want to use to compute. And that price will limit your choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T17:15:41.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13715" CreationDate="2012-12-18T20:02:50.883" Score="2" ViewCount="8069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've notice that the business to business site AliBaba and it's more consumer friendly AliExpress website have a number of bike components for sale. They tend to be complete component groupsets and the like but are some quite reasonable deals, especially if you are building a bike from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used AliExpress before to purchase electronic components, which have been good quality and are what they say on the tin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used AliExpress to buy bike components and have they had any trouble? (quality, counterfeit etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One benefit is that your money is held in escrow until you receive the item and aprove the payment so some safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2017-09-15T06:28:47.013" Title="Buying from AliExpress" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-18T20:31:22.773" Score="3" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have cranks with 4 holes for outer and middle rings attachment. There are no holed for inner ring attachment. On my other bikes crankset middlering has 8 holes 4 for cranks and 4 for inner ring. I tried to take them and attach to my other outer chainring and cranks and put it on bike, everything works perfect. The problem is I can't find  middle chainring with 8 holes for sale in my country or on ebay. Should I drill 4 more holes on my crank. Or what should I do please advise!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some IMGS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I. My other middle chainring with 8 holes, I can't find it for sale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0YgC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/EsnRM.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;II. My crank inner side with 4 places for drilling maybe :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7aA3E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.stack.imgur.com/gWSiX.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5730" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T14:00:46.717" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T15:00:30.327" Title="Help me to attach inner ring" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="295" CreationDate="2012-12-18T21:37:14.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That metal-on-metal sound means you need to inject some grease into your roller brakes. I have roller brakes on my cargo bike and I need to put grease in every second month, especially during summer. There is a grease port (hole) on the outside casing of the brake, you just squirt the grease in there. &#xA;See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/BR/EV-BR-IM70-R-2206B_v1_m56577569830688504.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;exploded view of a Shimano roller brake&lt;/a&gt; - the grease port is marked (6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easier to use the official Shimano brake grease because it comes in a squirt tube, but if you can't get any just use auto grease and inject it with a syringe. Any grease is better than none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be aware on some bikes the grease port is obstructed by the frame, you may need to remove the wheel to get at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4501" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T21:37:14.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-18T23:34:02.543" Score="12" ViewCount="16903" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning I discovered that my commuter folding bike had a bad flat tire, and I ran out to buy a new tube, no problem.  I didn't notice until after I'd changed the tube that the tire sidewall was beginning to crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need this bike for my commute tomorrow, and am not going to be able to get a replacement tire on short notice.  Is there anything I could do to reinforce the sidewall to minimize the chance of a catastrophic flat tomorrow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw something on Answers.com about supergluing tears in tires, but I don't know if that's good advice or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5732" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T17:48:49.860" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T03:35:49.360" Title="Is it possible to glue or patch tire sidewalls?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13674" CreationDate="2012-12-19T00:22:38.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my doubts about using superglue. Superglue typically dries into a stiff,hard non-flexible film. The tire bends and flexes and the glue will fail. If the crack is a small age crack in the side wall and doesn't go through the cord inside the tire, I would just put in the tube and ride. If the cut/crack goes all the way through the cord and is visible inside the tire you can cut a piece of the old tube and glue it over the split on the inside of the tire. If you don't have anything but preglued patches use one or two of them to cover the hole. Install the tube and inflate the tire. Check the tire in the repair area to see if the crack is spreading. I have used a tire boot (it basically a large patch) on mountain bike tires with success. MTB tires run at much lower pressures. The boots are available at your local bike shop and are worth having for situations like these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T00:22:38.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13674" CreationDate="2012-12-19T01:27:21.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a standard tire patch on the inside of the tire to fix this. It's only a temporary fix, but it works very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T01:27:21.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13674" CreationDate="2012-12-19T03:30:01.920" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually carry a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/emergency-tire-boot-tb-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;park tool emergency boot&lt;/a&gt; in case of big tears on the tires. When in need and desperate, a dollar bill along the inside of the tire where the crack or tear is on the tire does the job too. Just keep in mind that it's a very temporary fix and a replacement tire should be bought as soon as humanly possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure not wrap the dollar bill around the entire inner tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be Safe and Be Green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4691" LastEditorUserId="4691" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T11:55:50.793" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T11:55:50.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13674" CreationDate="2012-12-19T03:47:12.217" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to &quot;boot&quot; the inside of the tire with a dollar bill or purpose-made tire boot or some such.  You shouldn't glue the boot in place, but you may use a small dab of glue to keep it from shifting while you install the tube and inflate the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T03:47:12.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2012-12-19T04:20:07.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride several different types of bikes for recreation. among them are a trusty 700c raleigh tri lite, a Trustier pink Giant Acapulco with front and back big steel pannier baskets (heavy), a 16&quot; dual suspension mongoose tiny mountain bike with 20 inch tires and 5 inch cranks (legendary leg workouts to be had here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so those are my three bikes. The hills around here are tough but there are also a lot of flats in town.&#xA;so heres what i will say! &#xA;when it comes to hills the lighter you and your bike are the faster you will go. Ice cream is your Enemy, Steaks, Deviled eggs, Pie. After an hour or so of hard riding without any food i usually start to 'plane out' some. it is a tired leg burning feeling. but accompanying it is a lighter feeling and keeping momentum seems to get easier. this is probably the fat cells in my body resorting to the 'Beta phase' glycogen release mode. where bust strentch is exhausted and the flow begins to trickle out what glycogen is left... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;snacking while riding is HARD! (well. maybe not so hard on flat ground) all these little energy shot edible goo packages i see littering the roadside are supposed to get you back into burst mode, give them a try if you want but please dont litter! Trail mix works great too. Working off all the excess poundage and then supplying yourself with a steady stream of lightweight nutritious food ONLY AS NEEDED will make you go faster. IT can be done a lot faster than you think! i think i remember losing 12 or 14 pounds of bodyweight in one day a couple of times. and will routinely drop 5 or 7 pounds if i go 25 or 35 miles on either of my slower wide tire bikes. just get out biking and tell yourself ! i am not going to stop riding till this feels easier! when it starts to feel easier your body has 'planed out' and you have begun the long long road to good health and vitality. ignore your rumbling stomach and ride on. you may not quite be 'In the zone' just yet but you are getting there. herein is the key to really getting faster! and it really is good for your body as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when it comes to the Wind and flats the heavier you are, the better. now this sounds conterintuitive but it is sort of true.... sort of. by sort of i mean that moving that heavy bike and your heavy self is obviously up to you!!! but if you are in good shape and can tackle hills on a steel bike, pie ice cream and all then wind is not going to stop you, and momentum does come into play against it. EG a leaf blows away in the wind but not a rock. flat ground is good ground on a bike. wind plus hills = tough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are Living creatures, constantly growing and such, doing things the hard way sometimes is an effective shortcut to get to the point where you will eventually break down, have to learn new things, change, and re emerge hopefully better stronger faster harder. provided you did things 'right'. otherwise trying things the hard way will most likely result in giving up right off the batt or stubbornly injuring yourself faster than your body can cope with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so back to bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a quality steel bike is more stable in the wind, the more weight you have under you the lower your Center of mass will be. any road bike is trickier to handle than a mountain bike due to more precise tracking, tallness and smaller footprint. the lighter and taller your bike is the less stable it becomes. not to mention less crashworthy in both cases. the Tiny bike i ride is LOW, the pedals clear the ground by and inch or two. it is not geared for fastness but it is low and compact and aerodynamically 'not that bad' screaming down steep hills at 38 mph it feels actually really safe. the incredible lowness and strong bmx handlebars, the short top tube all lend themselves to being able to put your body over the back wheel and lock the brakes down without losing control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i once T stopped this bike from about 28 mph to a stop after coming down a really steep road in the sprinkling rain.&#xA;aside from eating through a good rear tire in 2 seconds, i learned that this tiny hard to pedal 7 speed really was my best bike. It is Safe and it is slow, and it is suprisingly comfortable. It has 4 bike pegs on it and it can be ridden like a jetski or a street luge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;anyway , thought id give you bikers another perspective on things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be the slow guy! he goes home tireder and wakes up stronger. LOL&#xA;and if you really ride on flats mostly and want the answer to your question from left field&#xA;HERE IT IS!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;get out your electric drill, or borrow your friends if you dont have one. take that classic steel bike that feels so fat and unloved in this modern era. AND START DRILLING HOLES IN IT!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;leave the rear triangle alone it is probably too skinny. drill holes through the sides of Everything else, even multiple rows if you want. id leave the tops and bottoms of the tubes alone and the corresponding front and back of the fork, because i think the bottom of each tube bears the most weight, then the top, then the sides, that is just a guess. Drill lots of holes everywhere so that they are horizontal to the ground and cross the bike right to left, same with your handlebars through the sides. Space em out at least a centimeter and make sure when youre done to Spray paint the whole thing real good (rustOleum) and check to make sure the frame is not overweakened on some grass. add drain holes if there are not any for water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a friend of mine just took an old shwinn world sport 700c bike to the scrap metal dealer and now that i think about it i really should have done this to it! all those little steel circles would really add up. Line the frame with saran wrap if the holes causing drag seems an issue! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really folks it is just that simple! i am so suprised that no one actually answered this guys question except with 'spend money on this' or 'spend money on that' when you can just drill holes in the bike and make it lighter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do NOT reccommend this for anywhere where there are hills, or for anyone who is of a heavy build!&#xA;stay safe out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i hope i have covered the many facets that make up of bicycle speeed, offered multiple ways to creatively and inexpensively Speed up your bike and yourself (while ignoring the obvoius answer of out with the old in with the new), and also offered a counterpoint of the drawbacks of having an overfast bike and its effects on safety, workout quality, and durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The End&#xA;sincerely&#xA;-Carl Langner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5733" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T04:20:07.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13310" CreationDate="2012-12-19T10:10:03.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;New Cycle or assemble new parts??&#xA;this is absolutely different and both of them have an advantage.&#xA;New Cycle&#xA;you just choose one and pay. you can't choose part one by one and buying new cycle is more than cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assemble new parts&#xA;You will have a satisfy your self. you can choose anything you like and this is absolutely expensive. because you buying one by one of cycle.&#xA;so i have some advice if you have really like cycle choose s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5735" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T10:10:03.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13672" CreationDate="2012-12-19T13:23:10.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont remember how did I connected here yesterday, so now I writing connected with gmail with my phone.&#xA;Anyways, I took 32T attached to 22T from XCT SR SUNTOUR V3 22t,32t,42t crankset, I bought it from ebay, sorry cant give you the link now. Cranks with 4 holes only are FSA alphadrive. XCT also has 4 holes only on crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: cranks with middle chainring which has 8 holes.: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280915668543?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&amp;amp;_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280915668543?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&amp;amp;_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5737" LastEditorUserId="5730" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T15:00:30.327" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T15:00:30.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13689" CreationDate="2012-12-19T13:40:32.240" Score="14" ViewCount="3864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of recumbents and I have difficulties locking them safely when I have to park them in the street for long period of time.  The conventional wisdom is to use a U-lock to attach the frame to a strong fixed point. With a recumbent this is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; difficult because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the width of the seat will move the frame away from fixed points,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the frame itself sometimes has no closed loop like the diamond frame of upright bicycles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my Nazca Pioneer there is a small closed loop on the rear stays so I manage to secure it with a foldable lock. This is weaker than a U-lock but it is the best I came up with. But on my Challenge Seiran SL, which has no secure point, I am still looking for a safe way to lock it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you manage this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nazca Pioneer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wsCc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wsCc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Nazca Pioneer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Challenge Seiran SL:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYGSw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYGSw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Challenge Seiran SL&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5571" LastEditorUserId="19881" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T20:29:09.987" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T20:29:09.987" Title="How do you lock your recumbent?" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5459" CreationDate="2012-12-19T14:34:37.657" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some advise for you... Dont buying a cheap fork..&#xA;You will feel it the different cheap fork and expensive fork...&#xA;My first bike using RST fork and i used it for MTB...&#xA;It's so terrible the rebound is not good...&#xA;Now my bike using roxshox revelation...&#xA;It's so different the rebound so smooth...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5735" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T14:34:37.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13692" CreationDate="2012-12-19T15:05:28.753" Score="9" ViewCount="19453" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK so I have a Peugeot Galibier bike that consists of a Reynolds 301 steel frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A while back the original derailer gave up the ghost while riding, bending the rear-wheel spokes in the process. I was told it wasn't worth re-truing the rear wheel so I bought a cheapo Raleigh wheel from the LBS. I also bought a new 7-speed freewheel and Shimano derailer which I managed to install myself (using the original chain) and has been working great for about a year now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is nice to ride but I wouldn't mind upgrading the wheelset to a lighter and better set that would help with climbs and longer tours. I have in mind the Mavic Aksium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this wheelset, along with many others use the modern dropout spacing of 130mm. I am pretty sure my bike is has 126mm spacing. Being a steel frame I am fairly confident i can just squeeze a 130mm wheel in there but my concern is the cassette size and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am under the impression that an 8-speed cassette uses a narrower chain. Would this work with my original crankset and friction shifters?&#xA;i would rather stick with a 7-speed. Is it possible to find a semi-decent road 7-speed shimano cassette to fit on a Mavic Aksium and still use the slightly wider chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice greatly appreciated....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I have found this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-cs-hg-50-cassette-7-speed/aid:414549/?origin=pla&amp;amp;kw=&amp;amp;gclid=CIiLuvrpprQCFXHLtAod3jQAXQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-cs-hg-50-cassette-7-speed/aid:414549/?origin=pla&amp;amp;kw=&amp;amp;gclid=CIiLuvrpprQCFXHLtAod3jQAXQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this fulfill my need? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit2: Some additional info:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike (not the best pic, sorry, it's just been taken up Boxhill): &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nrWw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://i.stack.imgur.com/3nrWw.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(images not allowed yet? what?)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels are definitely 700c - I know this having previously replaced the rear wheel and buying new tyres &amp;amp; tubes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would like to move away from the &lt;strong&gt;freewheel&lt;/strong&gt; system to a &lt;strong&gt;freehub/cassette&lt;/strong&gt; system. The idea is that I want to put a semi-decent set of road wheels on it. Mavic Aksium seems a good choice. This has a dropout spacing of 130mm. My bike has 126mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would like to avoid cold-setting (bending) my rear dropout if I can. Sheldon says it should be possible but there may be a few issues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Derailleur is modern so should hopefully take whatever chain is used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friction shifters mean no worries about indexing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would like to stick to a 7-speed cassette. Reasons: I doubt my shifters can do more than 7 (bike was originally a 6-speed); I assume this will help maintain chain compatibility between front chainrings and cassette. Am I wrong? Would the 7-speed cassette linked above need a spacer or would it just work out-the-box?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment it seems like it should be OK. Maybe I should just bite the bullet and buy the wheelset and work to get it to fit....! Might help to borrow a friend's modern 700c 130mm hub wheel to see if that fits first though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2012-12-20T10:45:21.020" LastActivityDate="2017-08-31T02:17:09.027" Title="Upgrading wheels on a vintage Peugeot Frame" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9382" CreationDate="2012-12-19T16:09:45.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;152 Km?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, the bike would make it. But since you ask this question, my guess is that you're pretty inexperienced with long-distance rides. If you're in good shape, you can expect to do about 100 km/day. And regular bike tourers know that you won't exactly reach that &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; day, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to make this distance in one day, you'd need the kind of endurance that comes from already knowing you can make the trip!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm answering your question well after the proposed ride, I'd like to know how you fared in the first place. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2442" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T16:09:45.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9382" CreationDate="2012-12-19T16:22:59.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three answers, to quote the Windows dialog box: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt; - sure. 150km isn't that far and it's more likely that you'll fail before the bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt; - if the you or the bike is in terrible shape, then one or other of you will fail to make it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maybe&lt;/strong&gt; - in the same way as the general advice to a novice is to ask a physician for advice before this type of strenuous exercise, take your steed to a local bike repair shop and get their opinion. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll almost certainly be in bucket 1, although if you're asking the question, then assume the answer to bucket 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T16:22:59.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2012-12-19T16:51:54.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to make my old T-shirts last as long as I can for cleaning the drive train and getting the larger clumps of dirt, but then use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0000DIWIP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pledge&lt;/a&gt; disposable wipes (available at most grocery stores in the US) to wipe down/clean the frame, seat, post, handlebars, cranks, fork, spokes. They work very well, cheap and easily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T16:51:54.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13682" CreationDate="2012-12-19T16:53:53.603" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried one of these folding locks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8CQTr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8CQTr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222381361/144/Abus-Bordo-85cm-Granit-X.html?gclid=COPRr6H2prQCFQtxQgodRSYA5g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222381361/144/Abus-Bordo-85cm-Granit-X.html?gclid=COPRr6H2prQCFQtxQgodRSYA5g&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feed it through the wheel, through the chain, and back over your frame. No self respecting thief would take the time to try and untangle it without being caught.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-04-24T12:10:55.833" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T12:10:55.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13682" CreationDate="2012-12-19T17:11:06.130" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could get some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pitlocks&lt;/a&gt; or other secured skewers, and then use a standard U-Lock/Folding lock on your rear stays.  I'm not sure if Pitlocks fit a recumbant properly or if you want to trust your entire bike to them (rather than just the wheels) but it would probably be OK. Also, you could use a U-Lock between the seat and the front fork (possibly with some &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13619/affordable-security-nuts-and-bolts&quot;&gt;security bolts&lt;/a&gt; instead of standard allen key bolts). Something in that position would probably be quite difficult to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T17:11:06.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-19T17:31:39.830" Score="5" ViewCount="1853" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most hub manufacturers forbid lacing spokes radially, mostly because there is less material in the radial direction away from a flange hole than in the standard 3-cross, tangential lacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(UPDATE: as it appears, the actual breaking point is the material betwen consecutive spoke holes in the flange, the spoke holes acting like a perforated-toilet-paper effect...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have previously laced a Shimano front hub radially and rode it a lot, and nothing happened. Some friends of mine have done the same in the past (allways front wheel, always XC mountainbike), and nothing happened either. Currently, I have just laced another hub radially, and I am pretty sure nothing evil will happen, but still there is some discomfort for doing a theoretically Wrong Thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I want to ask you about FACTS (disregarding what &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Notes/SI_WH00F/SI-WH00F_En_v1_m56577569830611787.pdf&quot;&gt;manufacturers say&lt;/a&gt;): is there any WITNESSED (by yourselves, not internet stories) evidence that radially spoked FRONT hub flanges have ACTUALLY BREAKED? Any photos, stories, or preferrably shop experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(ANOTHER UPDATE: as already mentioned, there are a lot of photos and stories about hub flanges broken with radially laced spokes. But, as it turns out, if the search terms contain only &quot;broken hub flange&quot;, and not &quot;radial&quot;, there are also a lot of photos and stories of broken flanges with standard cross-laced spokes. This makes me think of flanges braeaking for a lot of possible causes, but when this happens with radial spokes, it draws more attention and provokes some confusion bias about causality, relating the failure to the spoke pattern instead of other form of abuse or material wearing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T19:37:33.750" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T06:28:30.157" Title="Any experience about radially-laced hub flanges actually breaking?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13685" CreationDate="2012-12-19T17:59:33.527" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're on the right track! My answer will be long, but I have a lot to say, so here we go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firstly, lets deal with your dropout spacing - there are two solutions I have used on my old steel road bikes. The first is to buy a 126mm freewheel hub which can be built up with sleek rims and will take a high quality 6 or 7 speed freewheel. The two manufacturers that come to mind are &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/wheelsets-rims-hubs/hubs/grand-cru-high-flange-freewheel-hub-126mm.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Velo Orange&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://paulcomp.com/jonohub.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paul Components&lt;/a&gt; - both are very high quality, but the VO hub costs $75 and the Paul hub costs $184. They both use sealed bearings and are both very nice to look at (with their high flanges and windows.) The benefits of using a 126mm hub is you avoid having to respace your frame, but the drawback is that you're wedded to freewheels which, if you change out gear clusters frequently, can be troublesome. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Random note: try to not lose or break the rear quick release for a 126mm hub. It is a HUGE pain to find another one on short notice as most QRs have threading for a 130mm hub, minimum. Plus, the threads are rolled, not cut, so you can't just run a die over a skewer and make it shorter!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option is to swage out your stays to accept 130mm or 135mm rear hubs. There is an excellent thread &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10837/can-a-relative-beginner-adjust-spacing-on-a-501-cromo-road-frame&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which will give you more info. I successfully respaced my 90s' Bridgestone from 126mm to 135mm so that I can run mountain hubs with cassettes. You could just try to squeeze a 130mm hub into your frame, but in my experience it is hard to close your QR enough to force the dropouts comfortably flush against the hubs locknuts (and this isn't a good thing for wheel bearings, especially cartridge bearings! It would be more of an issue as the dropouts get splayed wider. More and more bikes are now made with dropout spacing at 132.5mm so that you can go up to 135mm or down to 130mm easily.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Being an older steel bike, it may use 27&quot; wheels. 27&quot; wheels have a BSD of 630mm, while 700c wheels have a BSD of 622mm. You will want to upgrade to 700c wheels because tire and rim availability makes it practically necessary (i.e. there aren't many mfgs of 27&quot; rims/tires anymore!) The difference isn't important in terms of frame size and clearance, though you may run into problems with your brakes if they don't reach far enough to contact the smaller 700c rims. Brake reach is measured from the brake bolt hole diagonally down to the center of the rim braking surface. On cheap brakes with no vertical pad adjustment the pads would just eat into the tire's sidewall. Either long-reach brakes or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/home-drop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;drop-bolt&lt;/a&gt; will solve this problem. (If you do replace your calipers, make sure you get nutted brakes or learn how to adapt a frame to accept recessed mounting bolts.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike has &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;caliper&lt;/a&gt; brakes, but I want to add a bit of info regarding bikes with cantilevers as I've had to slog through this mess several times before. Since canti studs are brazed to a frame with a rim diameter in mind, switching from 27&quot; to 700c rims will pull the braking surface down by 4mm which, when using brakes with limited adjustability, means you have to swap in some with lots of vertical and horizontal pad movement. Since canti stud placement has only recently been standardized, this makes upgrading old touring frames a crapshoot as brake availability is limited. One measure I took on a troublesome 1981 Miyata 1000 was to run caliper brakes and leave the canti studs alone altogether. (Another issue with upgrading wheels on an older canti-brake bike is the distance between the front posts. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5619/dia-compe-brakes-for-1991-bridgestone-rb-t&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thread for more info.) ((A more final approach would be to braze on a new set of cantilever studs, but this is hardly a novice project.))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, in choosing drivetrain parts that will be consistent and compatible, I don't think you'll have an issue. Friction shifters are compatible with (mostly) everything (good choice.) As far as chain width goes, with a new Shimano-compatible hub you'll be able to fit an 8 or 9 speed cassette - a 7 speed cassette will likely need a spacer to fit properly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rear derailleur will have to be reasonably modern, but I haven't had any issues with running 9 speeds under an 8 speed derailleur. In general, it is easier to use 9 speed hardware on 7 or 8 speed cassettes than to use 7 speed hardware on 9 speed cassettes. Ideally, chain width should correspond with your rear cassette (ideally.) The only concern would be if the crankset and chainrings were designed to run 5 or 6 speeds originally. If the distance between the chainrings is too great the chain can slip between them, but I've never seen it happen, even on franken-bikes with mismatched drivetrains. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a great Sheldon Brown article about gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T17:59:33.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13671" CreationDate="2012-12-19T18:00:57.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too am interested in this matter, and I plan on ordering some parts and maybe a carbon frame set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stumbled upon this forum of happy AliExpress carbon frame customers, there you can see real life builds based on carbon road and mountain bike frames and see what are the pros and cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velobuild.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.velobuild.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5742" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2012-12-20T20:29:36.717" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T20:29:36.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13695" CreationDate="2012-12-19T20:06:18.710" Score="10" ViewCount="6358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought new wheels for my roadbike (shimano wh-rs80 which have c24 alu/carbon rims). I was mounting tires on them yesterday and inflated them to 8 bar (~116 psi). After a few moments (30 seconds or so), the tire started to slide off of the rim at a certain place, resulting in the inner tube to expand more than it could handle, and blow out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried again with a new inner tube, checked that no part of the inner tube was stuck between the rim and the tire, inflated to 4 bar or so, checked again, inflated to 8 bar, BOOM. Same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires are almost new continental GP4000s 23mm (a few 100 kms on a fulcrum 7 wheelset this summer) which were stored for a few months without using them. The inner tubes are also continental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the inside of the rim and can not see any damage or anything that looks odd. There is a factory installed rim tape in place, all brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this twice with the front wheel and the same tire. I could try the rear wheel and/or the other tire to see if there is any difference, but I am a bit reluctant to potentially destroy yet another inner tube at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong? Did I miss something given that these are new wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5743" LastEditorUserId="3140" LastEditDate="2012-12-20T13:23:32.157" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T15:52:22.057" Title="Tire slips off the rim when inflated to 8bar" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13694" CreationDate="2012-12-19T20:34:31.220" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Especially when seating a new tire for the first time (and probably more so on a &quot;virgin&quot; rim) it's wise to inflate to about 1/3 or 1/2 final pressure and then roll/bounce the wheel around quite a bit, to work the bead into position.  Then deflate, break the bead loose all around, and repeat the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, as you're doing the final inflation, watch the joint between tire and rim all around.  Usually there will be ribs in the side of the tire that should be a constant distance from the rim.  If you see the ribs moving up or down relative to the rim, stop inflating and manually work that section of tire back even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally once the tire has been ridden a few miles it takes a &quot;set&quot; and will then reseat relatively easily if you have to repair the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But do note that there are variations in tires and rims, some due to spec differences and some due to manufacturer differences.  It's possible in several scenarios to have a tire and rim that are simply not compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T20:34:31.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2012-12-19T22:57:15.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Muslin cloths, which are commonly used for babies, make the best rags. They don't leave any fluff, wash up well and are hardy and last a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can be expensive in some baby shops but can be found cheap in large packs in supermarkets and bulk stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T22:57:15.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13549" CreationDate="2012-12-20T11:19:18.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I expect you will be wanting to move from downtube friction shifters to bar-mounted indexed shifters. Is your bike MTB or road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If road you might want brifters. These can be very expensive so first assess whether it's worth it. You'll need to select shifters that have the same number of clicks as your chainring &amp;amp; cassette. Also, you'll need to make sure the index spacing for your shifters is compatible with your deraileurs and gears. See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon article&lt;/a&gt; for more info&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T11:19:18.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5130" CreationDate="2012-12-20T16:12:22.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fixed gear bike will be &quot;less forgiving&quot; if something gets caught up in the drive train simply because you can't coast to a stop and dislodge the object. The object will either break and fling off, or it will &quot;stop&quot; the bike usually throwing the rider very hard and very fast into the ground (often face-first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to ride fixed as a commuter with street clothes you're taking on additional risk with no real benefit. So yeah, put a chain-guard on there as well as a front brake and some foot retention system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T16:12:22.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13549" CreationDate="2012-12-20T20:19:57.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano never made a derailleur or shifter called &quot;515&quot;, as far as I can tell. Perhaps you mean &quot;SIS&quot;? SIS stands (I think) for Shimano Integrated Shifting, which is indexed shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you've only got five cogs in back suggests that you've got an old, low-end bike. You might find that upgrading your shifters will exceed the total value of the bike. I also don't know whether Shimano's low-end derailleurs are compatible with their brifters for indexed shifting. I'd take it by a bike shop and ask for an opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T20:19:57.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13549" CreationDate="2012-12-20T23:48:35.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If what you currently have are friction shifters then almost certainly your sprockets are not designed for indexed shifting.  Converting to &quot;indexed&quot; shifters will not give you indexed shifting, only lousy, unreliable shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To convert a non-indexed bike to indexed you'd need to replace the sprockets.  Replacing the rear (&lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you can find a compatible replacement) would be relatively inexpensive, but replacing the front (which would probably involve replacing the crank) might very well cost more than the bike is worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(However, if your setup is actually &quot;SIS&quot;, then you should already have indexed shifters, and you &quot;only&quot; need to be sure that the new set is compatible with the old in terms of cable distance traveled per gear.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T23:48:35.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13705" CreationDate="2012-12-21T03:33:45.927" Score="1" ViewCount="1024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to get my first bike since high school.  I'm wanting to do paved roads but mostly light trails (no jumps, rocks etc., but want it to be sturdy if I go off-road).  Since this is my first bike and I don't know how often I'll get to use it (once per week?), I'm wanting to stay in the $300/$400 range.  I understand this range gives me really basic, cookie-cutter Chinese bikes, and I'm fine with that for my first one.  The Sorrento seems to feel right sitting on it, though I haven't had a chance to ride it more than a few feet in a little circle in-store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you confirm that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diamondback.com/sorrento-mountain-hardtail-recreational&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diamondback Sorrento&lt;/a&gt; is a good choice for me?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It comes from Dick's, which is, of course, not a good place to expect a bike expert.  Would purchasing it from Dick's/Amazon and then taking it to my local bike shop to do the assembly/initial setup be a good idea? or will they tell me why I shouldn't have gone to Dick's? (I just want it set up correctly and I'm no bike expert)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5751" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T20:08:08.620" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T20:08:08.620" Title="Diamondback Sorrento for first starter bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;diamondback&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-10-02T18:12:28.730" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-21T03:35:50.390" Score="0" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Schwinn Rocket mountain bike with front and rear V-brakes. While removing the rear brakes to be replaced with higher quality ones, I managed to twist one of the brake posts out of the frame while it was still attached to the brake itself. It appears that the brake/post bolt is seized and won't budge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much effort should I invest into separating the bolt, brake and brate post trio? The whole train wreck is soaking in PB Blaster overnight, so I'll try one more time tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that a brake post is the type of hardware that I should be able to buy at any bike shop. However, as with anything coming from the highly balkanized bicycle industry, &lt;strong&gt;I'm wondering whether there are many sizes of brake posts out there. How can I tell which one I need?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5647" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T04:21:22.720" Title="Which brake posts do I need?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13703" CreationDate="2012-12-21T07:26:10.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently looked (in France) for break post studs and it was surprisingly difficult to find them. The only place I found it was a bike shop that would sell and repair the same bike I had to repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major things that distinguishes break post studs are the diameter and the thread. There are many models (Is it proper to link to shopping sites that sell those kind of parts to show the kind of models?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5571" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T07:26:10.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13702" CreationDate="2012-12-21T07:47:54.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're an exceptionally experienced programmer, you know by now that life is a series of compromises and trade offs. Yes the diamondback is a good bike for that price, but you get what you pay for. If you really want a bicycle you'll enjoy, go to a family owned local bike shop and trade a little extra money for an experienced employee to fit you to a bike that's just right for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T07:47:54.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13694" CreationDate="2012-12-21T15:28:19.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a rim with similar behaviour. Every tire was very easy to install and remove by hand on this rim, but it had a problem: while inflating, there were always a spot where the bead &quot;tried to escape&quot; from the rim, and I had to reseat everything by hand, cautiously, while slowly pumping more and more air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final result was rideable, but quite unstable, and once during a race the tire bead popped at a certain spot, and I had to stop, lower the pressure, etc, losing precious time. There were no explosions, fortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the problem was a MANUFACTURING DEFECT: the total rim diameter was about 3mm smaller than it should, due to some quality control mistake. I gave up using that rim, and it now lies around, useless...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is your problem, but maybe you could compare it side-by-side with other rims just to check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T15:28:19.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13710" CreationDate="2012-12-21T16:19:21.297" Score="8" ViewCount="9276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like every year towards the end of cyclocross racing my brake cables start to get 'sticky'. The STI shifter is fine for changing gears, but when pulling on brakes it feels like I'm breaking loose something stuck before the pads actually touch the rims. I think water/mud/grime is somehow working into the housing and adding friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the cables and housing about this time every year. Is this too often? Should I be doing some better (more) maintenance? - I rinse and wipe bike clean after every race and practice, but not really anything special for brake cable/housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;side question: Should I change shifting cables and handlebar tape at the same time (since I'll have the wrap half way off)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T21:24:22.820" Title="How often should I change brake cables and housing?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13709" CreationDate="2012-12-21T16:52:24.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I encourage replacing once there is a noticeable decline in performance (usually that means that they get &quot;sticky&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of elements you go through, you might get back most of the perf by pulling the cable most of the way out, adding a drop of &lt;em&gt;thin&lt;/em&gt; oil, then sliding the cable back through all the housing. Repeat a couple of times wiping cable each time. This will often clear the bits of gunk that are making it sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing shift cables/tape at same time:&#xA;Tape...absolutely, it's cheap and I always feel like I've treated my bike nice when it's sporting new wrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shift cables...if they are in good shape and the drive train is clicking along nicely, I tend not to mess with it. If they are getting sluggish like the breaks, then I'd go ahead. Keep in mind on the shift cables that they will stretch a bit so you will need to tighten the cable and possibly do a slight retune of the drive train a bit after a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T16:52:24.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13573" CreationDate="2012-12-21T18:30:50.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lansey/loud-bicycle-car-horns-for-cyclists&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Loud Bicycle horn&lt;/a&gt; is potentially a fantastic answer to this problem. It's as loud as an air-horn, but has the characteristic dual-pitch that makes a car horn instantly recognizable. Nothing triggers a motorist's reflexive braking like the sound of a &lt;em&gt;car&lt;/em&gt; horn pointing in their direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of awesome features:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(reasonably) light weight at 23oz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-removable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weather-proof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;runs via a rechargeable battery which holds a charge for one to two months&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can be honked for 30 consecutive seconds on a charge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I am not associated with the product beyond having backed the Kickstarter, and thinking that it's a great product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2017-09-28T11:10:57.803" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T11:10:57.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2012-12-21T19:16:06.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a Similar length comute every day in the UK.  It's a bit undulating with 100m climb all told and some steaper than I would want myself for a singlespeed so I need gears but don't want to do regular maintance so hub gears it is.  It rains a lot here so full mudgaurds essential.  There are some bits that get jamed with traffic and the pedestrians tend to step out infront of me so in the wet I see disk breaks as essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer is an older 8 speed Charge Mixer but there are a number of Hybrid hub geared disk offering availible.  It's a bit heavy and slow feeling as people sprint away from me at the lights but that just makes getting out on the road bike at the weekends more fun.  The main thing is that in two years I have just had to fix 2 punctures and tweak the cable tention twice no other maintnance event with no cleaning and riding it into a river the once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3723" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T19:16:06.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13573" CreationDate="2012-12-21T20:04:56.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always just used my voice as a warning to pedestrians about to step in front of me, and a few instances over the years to a driver or two who wasn't paying attention to their driving. I just use a loud/sustained a &quot;Hoooooooo&quot;, repeated as necessary, ( like Santa's Ho, Ho, Ho ), to get someones attention. It can be loud enough to attract attention and doesn't sound confrontational to pedestrians like a loud &quot;Hey&quot; might, and can be louder for a driver with the windows rolled up. It's quick and keeps both hands on the bars in case an avoidence move is needed. Never had problems using this method, plus there's no weight added to the bike and no maintenance ( batteries/air ) involved. Additionally, always be polite and when overtaking pedestrians on a walking path, give them a &quot;On your left, or on your right&quot; as needed before you pass them from behind. If bikers want respect, we must also give it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T20:04:56.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13709" CreationDate="2012-12-21T21:24:22.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the more common strategy is to squirt spray-lube into the housings once or twice a year and only replace them when they're showing rust or other signs of being over the hill.  I replace mine every 10 years, whether they need it or not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly if you're replacing the tape then that's a good time to replace the cables, but I only replace the tape every ten years as well -- in-between I just add layers of hockey tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T21:24:22.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13671" CreationDate="2012-12-21T21:29:24.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crapshoot.&lt;br&gt; You may get something fantastic for your money, or you may get something that will leave you feeling burnt. Worse yet, you may get something that will fail catastrophically and get you really, really hurt. I have personally seen all scenarios play out with friends and former customers.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I recommend you try to find reviews for whatever parts you're looking at from folks who have owned the product for years- not months or weeks, or the &quot;I just ordered it and when it gets here it's gonna be awesome!&quot; guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T21:29:24.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13674" CreationDate="2012-12-21T21:40:41.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you lived through your commute, but for posterity if your tire has a sidewall tear because it's so dry-rotted that it's failing on it's own, you need to skip the commute and fire up the car or take the bus. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you've got a small sidewall cut you can actually use the rubber glue type patches to seal the hole from the inside. I regularly do this for tubeless punctures that are too big for the Stan's goop to seal. Same principle for tires with tubes. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For bigger punctures you can use a purpose made tire boot. Basically the same as the tube patch, only bigger.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In a pinch, a folded up bill, a candy bar wrapper, whatever's handy. I've seen people stuff leaves in a cut tire to get to a tube to stay in - mixed results on that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T21:40:41.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5130" CreationDate="2012-12-21T21:51:17.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To your fingers and clothing, yes; bigger items (like your foot) dont really pose a threat because the chain and cog cant really get the necessary leverage to crunch through them. That doesn't mean it wouldn't hurt so I don't advise trying it.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just watch where your fingers are when the bike is in the stand and the cranks are spinning (biggest danger) and dont wear your bellbottoms while riding (less of a danger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T21:51:17.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13721" CreationDate="2012-12-22T00:50:05.123" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to sell a 4-bike hitch on craigslist.   One thing I'm unsure of is whether or not it's tailored to universally fit on all cars.  I'm worried because if it's too specific, a few people who own those cars will buy it, but if it's universal, it should be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the standard for hitches? Are they universal? Or are they custom fitted to support different vehicles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5755" LastEditorUserId="5755" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T02:13:22.867" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T02:13:22.867" Title="Will my bike hitch fit on any car?" Tags="&lt;transportation&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13723" CreationDate="2012-12-22T14:21:40.837" Score="1" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am installing a brand new cartridge brake pad assembly on my mountain bike. I noticed that the brakes have a left and right written on them so i install them properly. What seems fishy to me is that the cartridge slides in from the back of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that if i were to lose the pin holding the cartridge in place, next time i were to apply the brakes the cartridge would probably be pulled out of the holder because of friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the part that seems very counter intuitive to me. If that hole was in the front of the brakes, this scenario would never occur. This also leads me to believe that maybe the LEFT and RIGHT markers are suppose to be flipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-12-22T23:49:01.230" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T02:32:18.963" Title="installing brand new cartridge brakes, something seems fishy" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13718" CreationDate="2012-12-22T14:22:47.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for the vehicle most buyers need only consider the size of hitch they have, 1 1/4&quot; or 2&quot; are the typical sizes and try to get a hitch of the same size. You can usually get an adapter to fit a rack that is sized differently than the hitch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically the hitch racks sit a bit back off the rear of your car to accommodate rear features of most vehicles. I'd only be worried if they had a spare tire mounted on the rear of the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-12-22T14:22:47.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13720" CreationDate="2012-12-22T16:12:00.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake labels are correct, please don't ignore them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're moving along the top of the wheel, where the brake is, is moving forwards. When the brakes touch the rims, the rims are trying to pull them further forwards, were the holes in the front, they'd be pulled straight out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2012-12-22T16:12:00.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2012-12-22T22:02:03.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not mention how many cogs you have on your cassette.  The reason I ask is your chain line will be affected by removing the inner chain ring as it will be permanently moved when on the big ring.  I feel that this will give you some cross gear issues when you travel up and down the cassette.  The chain line for a double chain ring is measured from the bike centre line to the middle of the two chain rings when bolted together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single chain ring and crank with a shorter Hollowtech 11 bottom bracket spindle should solve the problem. Hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2012-12-22T22:02:03.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6811" CreationDate="2012-12-22T22:24:47.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way is to measure the chain line distance at the chain ring and then measure the chain line at the rear cog.  You require to measure sizes on your bike as accurately as possible and do some calculations.  This site explains how to do it for geared bikes but the same principals apply.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-line&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-line&lt;/a&gt;  Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2012-12-22T22:24:47.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-23T21:08:08.867" Score="8" ViewCount="11537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that any hole, cut or tear larger than a pinprick is impossible to repair with normal patches because they are too soft. Even a 2-3mm slit will cause the repair patch to balloon out and burst at that point. Is there a way around this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5762" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2019-09-25T23:20:29.037" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T12:49:41.340" Title="How to repair large holes in inner tubes?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13806" CreationDate="2012-12-23T21:08:30.477" Score="8" ViewCount="3991" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations for shock absorbing handlebar tape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a very harsh bike with drop bars (cheap alum frame and HD wheels, frame limits tires to 28mm) so I'm doing what I can to minimize the harshness (short of getting a new bike).  I will be getting some padded gloves but I won't always be using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a commuter/day tripper.  I think I've dialed in my positioning well enough, the only thing that hurts after a couple hours is my hands, and I do move their positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T19:31:19.157" Title="Shock absorbing handlebar tape - recommendations?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13729" CreationDate="2012-12-23T21:18:46.760" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that you will have a problem with the patch ballooning out as long as the tube is inflated while fully mounted with rim and tire. To my experience there just won't be any room to balloon to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you fear that this will be a safety risk, I would recommend a new inner tube when the old one has such a big hole. When you are on a ride and have no spare tube at hand, even with a 2-3 mm slit a standard patch should be enough to get you home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2019-09-26T19:52:57.160" LastActivityDate="2019-09-26T19:52:57.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13735" CreationDate="2012-12-23T21:52:50.157" Score="7" ViewCount="11166" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to find a chrome moly bike for less than $1000 these days.  Is it because it's actually less expensive to manufacture aluminum bikes these days or is the market for chrome moly bikes so small that economies of scale make aluminum bikes cheaper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T02:59:32.480" Title="Why are steel bikes more expensive than aluminum?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13730" CreationDate="2012-12-24T00:36:25.327" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try adjusting the angle of your seat, so that the front of your saddle is level to the back of the saddle. This will change your riding position and encourage you to lean forward less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T00:36:25.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13732" CreationDate="2012-12-24T00:39:20.933" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I'll ignore the chain store things with two wheels and pedals, I refrain from calling those bicycles) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a steel Hard-tail MTB, by choice, and found it easy to choose my bike - The choice was so limited it was a Jamis Dragon or aluminum...... I carry an extra couple of pounds over a similar spec, same price point aluminum bike. I traded my 10.5kg Aluminum framed MTB for a 13.5kg Steel......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the 1990's the unwashed masses were taught that Aluminum was a superior material in every way, and most people still think so (Except those than can afford and want carbon). It does not rust, is lighter and stiffer and....)  Most people, even those that should know better, think weight is God when comparing bikes, and measure it's advantages in $/gram saved. It takes skill to build a reasonably weighted steel frame, whereas any idiot can build a respectably weighted Aluminum frame (with skill, Aluminum will be lighter than steel). Theres even a web site dedicated to weights of bike parts.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the Q and A's here- how many people state that &quot;steel rusts and is heavy&quot; - most of them will never have ridden, let alone owned a steel bike (except perhaps one of those cheap chain store things). Perceptions are steel is &quot;So 1908's ....&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now look at the cheaper end of the market - these are not typically serious riders. These are Novices relying on advice from friends and Salesmen. The ONLY thing they can use to compare bikes in a shop is weight. Even if they go for a test ride, they won't feel the difference between bikes, let along the subtle difference between a steel and alloy frame in the shop car park. The salesman knows this - so he sells &quot;Weight is everything&quot;, and harps on about how every gram is critical. The up sell to the next model is then easy - it's so much lighter, and only another $100...... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So put this together, people buying steel frames are few and far between. Those that do tend to know bikes and want a reasonably good one. Theres enough of a market to build steel framed bikes, but those customers know what they want and will pay a premium for it. It's fairly small, so the profit needs to from margin, not volume. As the market is not big enough for a major competition between manufacturers only a few play in it, and they can set prices accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats my guess anyway - not based on any provable fact.......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T00:39:20.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13759" CreationDate="2012-12-24T02:26:53.797" Score="12" ViewCount="48825" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I tell if a rim is bent or if the wheel is just out of true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-12-24T02:33:53.100" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T19:39:33.660" Title="How can I tell if a rim is bent or if the wheel is just out of true?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13720" CreationDate="2012-12-24T02:32:18.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The open end of the brake always faces rearward on the bike. Right and Left are identified with respect to you as if you were sitting on the saddle facing forward on the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pin fell out, the brake pads would only slide out of place if you held the brakes and rolled the bike backwards. You can improvise a pin with a bent paper clip if need be to replace a missing one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T02:32:18.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13736" CreationDate="2012-12-24T02:52:32.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best advice here is to take your wheel to an accomplished wheel builder who should be able to true your wheel if it's possible or rebuild it if it needs it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truing wheels is one of those things that's more Art than &#xA;Science and once it starts going wrong, it just gets worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T02:52:32.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13732" CreationDate="2012-12-24T02:53:06.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on where you're looking. Used bikes-- Craigslist, eBay, even local swap meets/garage sales-- with steel frames are plentiful, and some are excellent bikes. For example, I got the 1983 SR Semi Pro pictured below for $130 off some local classified ads. 1500 miles later, I can tell you it is a great bike. All I needed to do was update the saddle, tires, and brake pads. Similarly, the Peugeot pictured below it was a garage sale score ($20). New tires, some tune-up work, new brake pads, saddle, etc., but it is a wonderful bike. Japanese-made frame, built like a tank, perfect for a townie. 1500 miles later, I can tell you, it is also a great bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q2ux4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1983 SR Semi Pro&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtuAA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1986 Peugeot Orient Express&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while I will agree, &lt;strong&gt;new&lt;/strong&gt; steel-framed bicycles can be expensive, not all are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding new steel-framed bicycles, not all are totally pricey. In 2011 Specialized was selling a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/cn/en/bikes/archive/2011/allez/allezallezsteelx2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;steel Allez&lt;/a&gt;, which was around $650 IIRC. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=reynolds+site%3Awww.bikesdirect.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BikesDirect also sells a number of steel-framed bicycles&lt;/a&gt; for less that $1000. You can go up from there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T02:53:06.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13729" CreationDate="2012-12-24T03:47:25.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two points:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Tubes are pretty cheap.  Better to replace one with a large hole rather than attempt to patch it.  (Though 2-3mm cut should be easily repairable with a standard quality patch.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If you have trouble with the tube &quot;ballooning out&quot; then it's not being properly supported by the tire.  You must have a cut in the tire that (if it doesn't render the tire damaged beyond repair) requires a durable &quot;boot&quot;.  A tube is intended to be completely supported/contained by the tire and should not &quot;balloon out&quot; even if infinitely thin and pliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T03:47:25.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13736" CreationDate="2012-12-24T03:51:36.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, sometimes the rim is visibly bent, especially if there are creases in the sides.  But if not visibly bent, and you don't have an experienced eye, then you have to attempt to true the wheel and see if it trues up well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some minor dents in a rim can be repaired with the proper equipment, but others require rim replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that you need to read a book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It should be noted that if the wheel is not particularly expensive then this is a good opportunity to learn wheel truing.  If you're reasonably careful (and use the right spoke wrench) you won't screw it up much worse, and, unless you true it, you're going to have to take it to the shop anyway.  So a good time to give wheel truing a try.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in response to @WTHarper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helps to know how the wheel got cocked up in the first place.  If it was hit by a car then the odds of a bent rim are pretty high.  If it &quot;just happened&quot; -- the wheel went out of alignment on its own -- then a bent rim is very unlikely (and a broken spoke is likely).  If it happened in a &quot;soft&quot; fall -- eg, the wheel slid out from under you on loose gravel -- then a bent rim is possible but unlikely.  It's more likely that some spokes were just stretched out.  If it happened in a hard fall or when hitting an obstruction then a bent rim is more likely but far from certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And I should have mentioned checking for broken spokes:  First check that all spokes are tight, and if any are loose check whether they are in fact broken.  It would be very unusual for a wheel to not &quot;taco&quot; slightly when a spoke breaks, and replacing the spoke should get it back in true with relatively little effort.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2012-12-27T02:03:13.320" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T02:03:13.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13732" CreationDate="2012-12-24T03:58:11.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Novara Safari has a steel frame and is $899.  And that was after just 15 seconds of searching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it may well be that many less-expensive bikes are being made in aluminum, since in some ways it's more conducive to automated production.  Also, people who don't know any better consider aluminum to be a superior material, and the less-expensive bikes are marketed to people who don't know any better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T03:58:11.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13703" CreationDate="2012-12-24T04:21:22.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've visited a few local bike shops here in Brooklyn, NY and found that the part in question (referred to variously as a &quot;brake boss&quot;, &quot;brake post&quot;, and &quot;brake guide&quot;) is extremely manufacturer-specific and is difficult to locate if a replacement is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This prompted me to look on eBay and lo and behold! There's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&amp;amp;_nkw=brake%20post%20boss&amp;amp;_sacat=0&amp;amp;_from=R40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;treasure trove&lt;/a&gt; of parts similar to the one I need. I will update this answer with my findings once I've received some shipments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5647" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T04:21:22.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13730" CreationDate="2012-12-24T04:26:19.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the foam grips on my Miyata 1000 LT touring bike. They seem to last forever. They are comfortable for short trips of 10 miles or so, without the use of padded gloves. They do give some insulation advantages in colder weather. They can also be wrapped with cloth tape if you desire to compress the foam a little bit to protect it or if your hands are on the small side. It can be a bit of trouble installing or removing, but Sheldon Brown has some tips on the Harris Cyclery website for working with this type of grip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/handlebar-tape.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/handlebar-tape.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/grab-on-grab-on-maxi-grip-set-424.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://harriscyclery.net/product/grab-on-grab-on-maxi-grip-set-424.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorDisplayName="user4975" LastEditDate="2012-12-29T22:19:35.653" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T22:19:35.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="761" CreationDate="2012-12-24T19:11:16.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CycleOps PowerCal is a good, inexpensive way to get introduced to power. It uses a derivative of your heart rate to estimate power over a period of time. It also doubles as a heart rate monitor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleops.com/en/products/power-meters/powercal.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cycleops.com/en/products/power-meters/powercal.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not suitable for short intervals or instantaneous power the way other power meters are. Rather it is good for comparing relative power output over a given period of time (usually a few minutes). It works very well for understanding your power output on long sustained climbs or moderate to long sprints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some excellent reviews of the PowerCal with comparisons to other power meters. It is actually quite accurate when used for its intended purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2012/11/cycleops-powercal-in-depth-review.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2012/11/cycleops-powercal-in-depth-review.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T19:11:16.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13736" CreationDate="2012-12-24T22:13:17.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cause of your question should probably determine if the rim is bent or just needs &quot;adjusting&quot; by a qualified wheel builder. If contact with a vehicle or other solid object is the cause of the question, then there's a good chance the wheel is actually bent and will likely need to be entirely re-built or replaced ( replacing may be more cost effective ). If you just discovered the wheel seems to be &quot;wobbling&quot; in a certain spot or is rubbing the frame or forks in a certain area, the problem is likely a wheel rim that needs trueing by spoke adjustment or spoke replacement in a certain area of the wheel rim. In either case, in the interest of safety and rim longevity, I'd suggest having a knowledgeable wheel builder at a bicycle shop take a look at the wheel. That's better than worrying about a possible accident caused by a bad wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T22:13:17.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13749" CreationDate="2012-12-25T17:59:09.540" Score="2" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new bike for Christmas (12-25-12) and it is a &lt;em&gt;VICTORY&lt;/em&gt; VEGASJACKPOT w/medium-travel front fork and full suspension. The front disc brake rubs against the inside pad (the one on the fork side of the rotor) and I have no idea how to adjust it.&#xA;Thank you! &#xA;P.S. This bike is totally fine otherwise, with a nice low price too!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5767" LastEditorUserId="5767" LastEditDate="2012-12-26T01:10:28.777" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T01:10:28.777" Title="Fixed (inside) front disk brake adjustment" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13730" CreationDate="2012-12-25T20:05:50.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the responses everyone.  I'm going to try one of these shorter and higher stems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B002BVW4XC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Degree-Handlebar-Shims-Black/dp/B002BVW4XC/ref=sr_1_3?s=cycling&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1356462511&amp;amp;sr=1-3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I'd still like a little extra padding.  My hands have always seemed to suffer more than most peoples, even with more upright postures.  And like I said this is a fairly harsh bike (when I got my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=506872&amp;amp;storeId=10053&amp;amp;catalogId=10052&amp;amp;langId=-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;36 spoke HD wheels&lt;/a&gt; I noticed an immediate increase in the harshness, but I really prefer the stronger wheels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ByW5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ByW5.png&quot; alt=&quot;From amazon link&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2019-12-26T23:40:18.187" LastActivityDate="2019-12-26T23:40:18.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13747" CreationDate="2012-12-25T23:33:39.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an entry level bike. As few specifications are available I'll give you some generic adjustments. You question is a bit confusing as the pad closest to the fork is called the outside or outboard pad, the pad that is closest to the center of the wheel is the inside or inboard pad. If the rotor drags in only one spot you need to tweek the rotor. I use an adjustable wrench closed tight on the rotor. Gently push just enough to feel movement, then recheck. On cable operated disc brakes the outside pad is pushed into the rotor by the caliper piston. The inside pad does not move when the lever is pulled. The outside pad deflects the rotor slightly, just enough to make it rub the rotor. The initial adjustment is made by loosening the caliper mounting bolts. Center the caliper so there is an equal gap on both sides, tighten the screws. If you can't see a gap between the rotor and pads they may be set too tight. If you look through the spokes you may see an adjusting bolt on the backside of the caliper Rotating the screw clockwise will move the inside pad closer to the rotor, counterclockwise moves it away from the rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-25T23:33:39.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13249" CreationDate="2012-12-26T01:34:50.270" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my 2c from over 10 years experience in a busy shop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that it is the spokes are breaking at the hub.&#xA;On a drive side wheel, that is where they always break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a different rare condition, when the spoke nipples are breaking off at the rim.&#xA;Rims have two sets of holes, one set on the each side.&#xA;The spokes might be laced to the opposite side of the rim.&#xA;I have never seen this from any bike factory, but rather from amateur wheel builders.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a wheel starts breaking spokes, the spokes are almost always to blame.&#xA;Aged galvanized spokes that are gray or rusty can have all kinds of microscopic corrosion fractures at the bend.  If the spokes are not corroded, or were made of stainless steel, it could even just be a bad batch of spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if a bad wheel build was the original cause, the remaining spokes are damaged and will break with continued use.  Re-tensioning the old damaged spokes won't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am surprised the bike shop replaced the spokes one at a time after the second time it came back.  If the wheel is breaking spokes, it will continue breaking spokes until the entire set of spokes is replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one other possibility with three wheelers.&#xA;I have not seen a Schwinn three wheeler up close for 15 years or so, but in the old days they had chromed steel hubs, and those can sometimes be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the steel hub has a sharp edge in the spoke hole, that is a stress riser.&#xA;The spokes break right where the spoke bend hits the sharp corner.  Aluminum hubs are softer and will deform a bit - no sharp edge, no stress riser, no breakage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drive wheel on a three wheeler uses a special hub, special made for that exact trike, so you are pretty much stuck with the hub it came with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have lightly chamfered the spoke holes in some problem steel hubs with a countersink bit to remove that sharp edge.  A dab of paint to avoid rust is useful too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the chamfering makes logical sense, and those wheels never came back, it is hard to tell if the chamfering did the trick, or if a set of new high quality stainless spokes was enough to cure the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the trike is only a year old, it should be a warranty repair to get a proper fix, not just one spoke at a time.  Either replace all the spokes with quality stainless spokes, or replace the wheel.  I would trust a new set of spokes more than a replacement wheel.  If the shop won't handle this under warranty for a one year old trike, then contact the shop owner, or go up to Schwinn corporate if you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5768" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T01:34:50.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13730" CreationDate="2012-12-26T03:44:04.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once worked through the math, and in order to reduce the pressure on your hands to where you can maintain blood circulation in an average drop bar situation you need bar pads that are about 5&quot; in diameter (which is, obviously, somewhere between impractical and impossible).  And standard padded gloves have no different effect from padded bars in this sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need is to move the hands around enough that blood flow is not cut off from any one area for more than a minute or two, and over-padded bars/gloves make it &lt;em&gt;harder&lt;/em&gt; to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once had some Sorbothane-padded gloves that solved the problem by having ribs in the Sorbothane elastomer -- these were excellent and totally banished hand pain (which is no doubt why they are no longer made).  I also experimented with a longitudinally ribbed bar pad which worked very well, only the rubber I used (bathtub caulk) was not sufficiently durable, and only lasted about a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T03:44:04.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13755" CreationDate="2012-12-26T05:11:43.667" Score="6" ViewCount="5712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie at biking, and I've been wanting to get into BMX for a few years, and I can now since I actually have some money. Primarily I've been wanting a 20&quot; BMX bike with front and rear brakes and a detangler, but looking around on danscomp and a few other places there aren't too many in my price range. Anyways, that's not really what my question was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm new to this, I've been reading a bit about frames, sprockets, brakes, etc., and found out there is a frame that is specifically for flatland riding, here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/On7qm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, when I look at a lot of tricks online (I've just been using Google Images) and look up 'flatland tricks / bikes' or 'bmx tricks', most of the pictures are just using the typical frame with the straight bottom tube. So finally, is it really necessary to buy a 'flatland' frame, which would just cost more and be harder to find, or just use a typical BMX-style frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5766" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T04:50:09.817" Title="Is there much of a difference between flatland and park/street frames?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;tricks&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13736" CreationDate="2012-12-26T07:32:42.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you remove the tire and loosen all spokes completely, or better remove them as well, and put the rim on a flat surface, it should become clear if the rim is bent or not.  Obviously this requires some work which may be unnecessary if the wheel simply needs truing, so I'd try that first.  If it fails and you are thinking of replacing or repairing the rim, it will need to be removed anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5769" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T07:32:42.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11031" CreationDate="2012-12-26T09:04:44.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text quoted below is taken from Barnett's Manual, 4th edition. They are my bible for bike repairs and maintenance. Barnett's are a US company and it would seem to say the right hand controls the rear, where in the US or Europe. I Suggest it could be very dangerous to have an unusual setup, at least if you lend the bike or sell it on later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Normal routing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is normal that the cable from the right lever go to the rear brake. It may be changed at customer re- quest, but not because the shop decides that the un- conventional routing is better and should be the shop standard. Anyone that has ever ridden a bike with hand brakes expects the right lever to operate the rear brake; it would be dangerous to surprise someone with a bike that had levers set up opposite from the norm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5770" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-01-02T07:40:11.263" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T07:40:11.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13752" CreationDate="2012-12-26T20:42:37.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are new to BMX I would find a good local shop that specializes in BMX. In my area the three largest conventional road/MTB shops don't carry BMX. We do have two very good shops that only sell BMX and skateboards. So don't be dismayed if the first shop you check has nothing you want. If you can't find one, stop by the local skate/bike park and see what everyone else that is riding. Ask where they go for service, repairs or parts. Like mountain biking, BMX has bikes specialized for specific styles. The frames and components are designed for the style. From what I have seen Flatland bike are designed for slow speed tricks on flat terrain. This is where handling and light weight are more important than the ability to survive big air. The info I can find seems to point to you able to do flatland tricks on a standard BMX frame. If you try to do some dirtjumping or big air tricks on a flatland frame it's lightweight frame and components wont take the abuse for long. Since you are new, your style and preferences will change. I would look for a good used bike, this is where a good local shop can help.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T20:42:37.417" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-26T22:56:14.763" Score="5" ViewCount="15192" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you head to Walmart and see the slime bike liners for in the tire to stop goatheads and small nailes from actually running the tire.&#xA;Is there anything around the house or shed that can be used also?&#xA;Also the slime ones only seem to not cover the side of the tire wall. I do rock and outdoor bike riding and once hit a soft dirt patch that sunk my tire and a small nail got in from the side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5774" LastEditorUserId="5778" LastEditDate="2012-12-27T15:59:03.387" LastActivityDate="2017-07-19T02:39:08.647" Title="Cheap alternatives to avoid tire punctures" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13736" CreationDate="2012-12-27T04:56:12.420" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The common qualification here is an important one: truing is a skill that benefits from practice and experience (chicken, meet egg). Your wheels are important, and it's important to have somebody who knows what they're doing at least check your work if you're just learning (or if you're disinclined to trust your well-being in dense traffic to wheels you trued yourself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, a rim that isn't bent should have more or less even spoke tension across all the spokes when it is true. On the other hand, a bent rim will require higher tension in some spots and lower tension in others. So, noticeably uneven spoke tension in a true wheel is one sign that the rim might be bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5776" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T04:56:12.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13761" CreationDate="2012-12-27T10:14:50.547" Score="8" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have young children (5 - 7 years old), and having taught them to cycle on some really cheap bikes, I am looking to get them something more road worthy with a view to cycling to school with them. (~1 mile). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked briefly at a chain store (Not my regular local bike shop but closer to home), but was disappointed by build quality - The bikes were about twice as heavy as my own racer, the bearings seemed a bit rough, and the final assembly seemed to have been performed by chimpanzees. Even if I bought these, I think they would require a lot of tweaking after purchase and a lot of maintainance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look for when buying children's bikes? Are there any check lists that anybody can recommend? With regard to weight, is it normal for them to be so heavy? Why are the tyres on children's bikes all so wide? (~2 inches across) - I would imagine that the lower weight of a child would make thinner tyres a better option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2183" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T01:00:29.653" Title="What to look for when buying bicycles for children" Tags="&lt;children&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13760" CreationDate="2012-12-27T13:32:30.920" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your specific questions first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wrt weight: you are paying less for the children's bikes than for your own I hope? (they'll only fit on it for a few years after all) so kids' bikes use cheaper materials, cheaper usually means heavier in cycling gear. Don't expect to match your racer, but twice as much is a bit much even for a cheap model. Shop around a bit more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires: Wider tires are more stable because of the wider surface and because the higher tire weight that comes with width increases gyroscopic stability of the tires. Width, and the thickness that comes with it means the tires can take more of a beating going over bumps, ridges, ledges and sidewalk edges. So actually wide/heavy tires save you time in money in patches both for your kids and for the tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for things to look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the bike just barely fits your kid now (i.e buy maximum workable size), that way you can use the bike for a few years with just some adjustment to handlebar/saddle height.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you can add something like a flag on a long (high) pole to the bike. That way your kid is still visible from the other side of parked cars etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake quality is a big issue, especially if you are going out on the road with your kids, more so if the route is slightly hilly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;avoid bikes with gears unless you like spending your weekends cleaning and fixing bikes. Less gears=less maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regarding the tire issue, and my point about bike size: when considering multiple bikes: get the bike with the largest tires. Larger tires=higher gyroscopic force=more stable and all at the same weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't overspend. Your kid is not going to be as careful with his/her bike as you are. You shouldn't be wincing every time they just let the bike fall to the ground where they stopped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T13:32:30.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13756" CreationDate="2012-12-27T13:44:38.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Puncture resistant tires and liners are hard to DIY since they are made from kevlar and other specialty materials which are not easy to come by on the consumer market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat protection opions:&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puncture resistant tires $35 to $80 a tire - most expensive, best protection, only good for the life of the tire. My favorite lightweight ones are panaracer t-serve, most protection panaracer ribmo.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire Liners - $15-$25 a set- cheaper, reusable when you get new tires, adds a bit to rotating weight.  Mr Tuffy and Slime brands are available. I haven't used these personally.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubes with sealant - $10-$15 per tire - will seal small punctures with a liquid sealant. This is pretty much the same liquid in tubeless tire setups. This can have mixed results. Slime can get messy and clog valves. I don't think these are worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, none of these will prevent pinch flats either. Your best bet is to use one of the first two options and keep tires inflated to the proper PSI regularly. Always carry a patch kit and tools to fix a flat and a spare tube is nice to have as well, it pays to be prepared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T13:44:38.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13756" CreationDate="2012-12-27T15:22:16.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is kind of along the same lines as what @Benzo said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a good track pump.  It doesn't have to be expensive, but $25-$50 can get you a pretty good pump, that will last you a life time. Before I got a track pump, I got quite a few flats, now I get almost none.  This may matter more with high pressure road tires.  The better quality the pump, the more you will use it, and the smaller chance that you will get a pinch flat from low pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've used Mr. Tuffy Tire liners on my road bike and swear by them. Rode over a broken beer bottle with these in and didn't get a flat.  Personally, I think they are well worth the $15-$20 that they cost, and are probably the cheapest way to prevent punctures.  At least on my experience with road bikes. But then again, they won't do anything against pinch flats, so I restate, get a good pump (or suffer with a bad pump) and make sure you tires are properly inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Us an old dead tube to line the tire. Cut it so that it can be wrapped around the other tire.  This is basically the same idea as Tuffy tape, but less resistant to punctures. This can be done so that it does protect from the sides.  The extra layer is similar to using extra thick tubes, without paying for extra thick tubes every time you need to replace your tubes.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at it from a cost perpective, even buying good tires can and often will cost less in the long run. Spending $100 on tires means you don't spend so much on other ways of preventing flats.  You don't have to spend $15-$20 on Tuffy tape. You don't have to spend $10 on a new set of tubes a couple times a year, or spend a bunch of your time fixing punctures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2012-12-27T17:20:42.357" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T17:20:42.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13752" CreationDate="2012-12-27T16:20:18.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flatland frames generally have shorter top tubes, steeper head tube angles, shorter rear ends, etc... The down tube in your picture is designed to give you more room for front wheel scuffing. I'm noticing more and more flatland frames are designed to look like a typical street/park frame, but the geometry is not the same. I believe there are hybrid frames in use by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/results?hl=en&amp;amp;q=mathias%20dandois&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mathias Dandois&lt;/a&gt;, arguably the most progressive flatland/street rider. If you want to keep more options open maybe get what is categorized as a &quot;Tech Street&quot; frame, which would be something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://fitbikeco.com/frames/benny-l-black/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FIT Benny-L&lt;/a&gt;, or really any frame with a rear end &amp;lt;= 13.25 inches and a head tube angle &gt;= 75 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="66" LastEditDate="2012-12-27T16:26:05.587" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T16:26:05.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2012-12-27T16:40:19.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have this bike, in fact it was my first, &#xA;My dad bought it at a local bicycle store . It read challenger and was blue and yellow, it looks exactly like yours, same frame, same forks and I can tell same dimensions, I knew it inside out . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was made by Raleigh, was called concept diabolo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5780" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T16:40:19.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13756" CreationDate="2012-12-27T16:42:37.807" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My I recommend you look at purchasing tubeless tyres, they can be expensive but no more so than ones purchased and they are pretty smart , if you look about online you will find them to the dedicated sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5780" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T16:42:37.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13760" CreationDate="2012-12-27T19:39:27.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter is 13 and it is only this year have we started looking at more &quot;up-market&quot; bikes for her - a hardtail (still pretty cheap by hardtail standards) and for christmas, a good-quality BMX. I am still unconvinced that she is old/responsible enough to take care of them, but we'll see...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up until then I have always gone down the &quot;chain store&quot; route. There are two main reasons for this: first, you have to be prepared for them to treat the bike like crap. And this is not just letting the bike drop without thinking, as Jilles says (although certainly this is true), but also things like leaving it out in the front garden, unlocked, on rainy nights to gradually rust or be nicked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, kids will grow out of bikes, and probably a lot sooner than it will take the bike to fall apart, even if made by a chimp. So you're not necessarily looking for a &quot;well made&quot; bike, you're looking for a &quot;well-enough made&quot; bike. Sure, the better its condition the easier it would be to sell on, but you'll never get big bucks for a second-hand bike now that people have eBay and Craigslist available to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 5 - 7 age range I'd have thought the most important thing will be teaching them road sense and safety, so would have thought getting them used to peripherals such as hi-viz gear, a helmet and lights would be more critical than the bike itself. Bikewise maybe introducing them to a derailleur setup (we got a noddy 5-speed for my daughter at one point but she may have been older than 7) - obviously it is useful going forward for them to be familiar with this but also from my experience a kid will see a mountain where you or I would see flat road!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But certainly I wouldn't rule out &quot;chain-store-quality&quot; bikes because, like I say, you'll probably end up throwing it away eventually. Though of course you may prefer to shop at your lbs if you have an existing relationship with them (and you want them to stay in business).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T19:39:27.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="41" CreationDate="2012-12-27T20:46:47.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those who aren't thrilled at dropping a bunch of money on expensive lycra shorts that look weird and make you uncomfortable, there is an alternative! You can buy liners that do all that same amazing stuff (moistore wicking, bottom-padding, gonad-compressing) at a fraction of the price. For example these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Cycling/MensClothing/PRD~5017-583/mec-ace-cycling-liner-shorts-mens.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Men's Cycling Liners&lt;/a&gt; I'm sure there are other alternatives, from other sources. These will let you keep your baggies and have 90% of the benefits of $100 lycra shorts :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5781" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2012-12-31T12:55:50.560" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T12:55:50.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13760" CreationDate="2012-12-27T22:10:34.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest a visit to your local bike shop to get some recommendations from them concerning either new bicycles or possibly a used bike that's on the shop floor. Safety and reliability would be top priorities at this point. You don't want the children to have any mechanical problems going to or returning home from school. A good used bike may be a good choice since at their ages they are growing and developing rapidly. You may even get lucky and find a bike for the 7 year old that the 5 year old also likes and can grow into when the 7 year old gets a larger bike in a few years. Be sure that you use a bike shop you trust, not a shop just trying to clear bikes off of the floor because they've sat there for awhile. Just make sure that the children like and are happy with the bikes suggested, or they won't care to ride very much. You are obviously concerned with quality and reliability while they may be more concerned with colors and accessories. Since you are familiar with bicycles, looking at the &quot;for sale&quot; ads or garage sales for possible bicycles is also a possibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorDisplayName="user4975" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T01:00:29.653" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T01:00:29.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13773" CreationDate="2012-12-27T23:18:59.560" Score="6" ViewCount="48063" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading a lot over the past few days about BMX, and last night I watched a few videos like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glTL6VqwJPA&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. I have been seeing the words &quot;freecoaster&quot; and &quot;cassette&quot; around a lot, and I was curious what they were, so I looked them up - freecoaster does not require pedaling to go backwards, while a cassette hub does. In that video (around 3:08) I assumed that they were pedaling backwards just for &quot;style&quot; or whatever to make it look cooler - and after reading I think it is a cassette hub he is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of a cassette/freecoaster hub, and am I right to assume that if you take your feet off of either to do a trick that they will not keep spinning (provided that you press off of the pedals evenly and don't produce a spin)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5766" LastEditorUserId="5766" LastEditDate="2012-12-27T23:34:21.837" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T03:54:59.560" Title="Advantages / disadvantages of freecoaster and cassette hubs" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13756" CreationDate="2012-12-27T23:49:07.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the expensive tire liners like Mr Tuffy or SpinSkins, as an &quot;eco friendly&quot;, re-cyclable alternative, you may want to try using a discarded tire in reasonable condition, the same size as your bike's tires, as a &quot;liner&quot;. You'd want a smooth tread, no mountain bike tire treads. Then you CAREFULLY cut the bead off of the tire using whatever sharp tool works best for you. Some type of shears or scissors should work well. Then you can insert the trimmed tire carcass between the tube and tire and put the tire back on your wheel with the extra protection inside. Of course this &quot;tire liner&quot; will give some extra protection from the ordinary punctures you may get, and even protects the sidewall better, but it's no Mr Tuffy. It is usually free though, and that is a plus when you're &quot;experimenting!&quot; Most bike shops will gladly give you the old worn out tires in your size. Just be sure to ask for them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T23:49:07.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4988" CreationDate="2012-12-28T00:01:59.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic problem is that an assembly line in China is spewing forth bicycles of the same design, then, at the end of the line, one gets Brand A decals, the next gets Brand B, the third Brand C.  Some of the brands will be &quot;no-name&quot; brands, some will be &quot;house&quot; brands for your larger department stores, and some will be recognizable bike brands - &quot;Raleigh&quot;, &quot;Schwinn&quot;, et al.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the quality, fit, and finish of the bike is unique to that assembly line (and the particular model being built), and the factory next door is producing an entirely different bike, of different quality, as will this factory a month from now.  So the quality of this bike is no indication of the quality (or fit) of a different bike bearing the same &quot;maker's&quot; badge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your more reputable distributors and rebadgers will take some effort to assure that the bikes meet some minimal quality standards, but it's not like buying a more expensive &quot;brand&quot; bike where the brand people have overseen (to at least a minimal degree) the design and construction of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T00:01:59.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13770" CreationDate="2012-12-28T03:20:36.107" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son wanted to change his freewheel/cassete hub to a freecoaster hub so I did some research about 6 months ago and found this great YouTube &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12I8iK12oqA&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; from Odyssey and RideBMX magazine all about freecoaster hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said, the cranks will not move when coasting backwards. For my son, this is the real advantage and why he wanted the hubs. Landing a 180 out of a half pipe, his freewheel hub did not allow great control of the bicycle requiring him to spin cranks as he rolled backward (just like that trick at 3:08 in your video).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end it came down to money and we (he 12 year old) did not want to spend the money to get a new wheel with a freecoaster hub, you cannot just swap the axle/mechanism/insides of your freewheel shell with a freecoaster mechanism, you need a shell/hub that supports the freecoaster axle/mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T03:20:36.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13778" CreationDate="2012-12-28T05:10:28.787" Score="13" ViewCount="4426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started a while back restoring a custom-built tandem bicycle, and I sanded it down to bare metal and just used spray paint (Rustoleum I think, took the bike completely apart to just paint the frame) to give it 5 or so coats, then a clear coat... but the paint still comes off pretty easy. To paint it up I just hung it up by the back forks and did light coats. Anyways, it looked good in the end, but the paint still comes off pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the steps that someone should take to fully paint a bicycle that already has a coat of paint on it, that is tough and good looking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5766" LastEditorUserId="5766" LastEditDate="2020-03-24T00:35:39.863" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T00:35:39.863" Title="What is the proper way to paint a bicycle?" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10562" CreationDate="2012-12-28T09:56:28.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We bought (through the internet) 2 Radon hardtail bikes, one MTB 29 for me, and one 26 for my partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes (both) are excellent. Problems that I've had:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pedals, they could be better. They broke and I asked for a replacement. They provided the same pedals for free. After few months the same symptoms, but for now I am still using them since it is not dramatic. I understand that it will be solved when I buy better pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gears, at the highest position the chain touches the mechanism. I have to adjust (yet)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My partner's bike, no problems. At the price offered, this is a must-buy (unless you don't care for 200€ of difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a visual point of view, I was expecting something just more ugly than the (my) reference Cube. Based on the photos, that was clear. Once in person, they are way more beautiful than what I was expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: If I was buying another bike now? With my budget, Radon without any doubt. With a bigger budget? I don't know. I have no reasons to move from Radon. I would have more problems in deciding between a 26 and a 29 than deciding about a &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About sizes: I followed the indications of Radon webpage. No problems with that. It is true that I &quot;think&quot; that the size is the correct one. I could be with a wrong one and since I cannot compare with a previous MTB, I don't know. So far, it seems to fit without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5785" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-12-30T04:56:07.920" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T04:56:07.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13774" CreationDate="2012-12-28T13:31:42.653" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to use paint, I have had some success with the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bead-blast (or sandblast) the old-paint &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; off the frame. Sandpaper just isn't as good. You can rent a bead-blaster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean thoroughly with ethanol and rags. A white rag should stay clean if you rub it on the frame by the time you're done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prepare a clean environment for painting. Get a roll of plastic tarp and literally make &quot;a tent&quot; in which you hang your bike. Cut slots in the wall so you can stick your hand in and apply the paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the appropriate primer coat (critical for success)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply layers of the spray-paint color (this is where experience makes a difference, I tried really hard to get it uniform but only pros can really get it right).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply clear coat. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to paint, you can have your bike professionally powder-coated. This will give really beautiful results. I have had this done, but had problems with a lugged frame. After a few years, I can see that the powder coat has started to admit rust in the edges of the lugs. It is probably better to reserve powder coat for fillet-brazed (tig-welded) bikes. I am not sure if there are special preparations needed to powder-coat lugged frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T13:31:42.653" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13785" CreationDate="2012-12-28T15:28:23.553" Score="2" ViewCount="10819" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering upgrading my crankset, or rather I am considering considering to upgrade it.&#xA;I would like to gain a few teeth since I am permanently riding on the 48/13-15 making the 38 pretty useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have this: Suntour NEX, 48/38/28.&#xA;If I were to upgrade to something like : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rose-vpc.fr/article/shimano-pedalier-fc-2303/aid:417044&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rose-vpc.fr/article/shimano-pedalier-fc-2303/aid:417044&lt;/a&gt; what should I consider? Do I need to buy a new bottom bracket as well?&#xA;Will my derailleur require any update apart from raising an inch higher to accomodate the 4 extra teeth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T01:22:52.967" Title="Things to consider when upgrading crankset" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13787" CreationDate="2012-12-28T18:45:13.677" Score="5" ViewCount="4379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to buy a bicycle for a San Francisco city commute totalling 4.1 miles (about 6.6km) in each direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what handlebar position (and riding position) would be recommended for such a ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice drop bars are very popular here, but I am concerned that the bent over position would be stressful given that I will be commuting 5 days per week. At the same time, I do not want to overly stress my quads. Perhaps a compromise is recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5787" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T21:00:31.337" Title="Recommended handlebar style for short daily commute?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13780" CreationDate="2012-12-28T20:13:11.313" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love a good drop bar, but if you're only going 4 miles, an upright position might be more comfortable for you, especially if you're starting to commute for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with your basic commuter bike if you want, something that looks like this, with some flat handle bars.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/TrekBicycleProducts/52049&quot;&gt;http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/TrekBicycleProducts/52049&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head to a bike shop where you can test drive some different models, maybe you even end up liking the drop bars more. Especially if you have some hills in your way on your commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T20:13:11.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13780" CreationDate="2012-12-28T20:38:58.763" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a short commute in street clothes I opted for flat bars with bar end extentions. This allows some different hand positions and for me a more comfortable upright position. If you are riding for the first time is several years, bike fit is more  critical than bar type. A bike that is the wrong size will never be comfortable no matter what type bar it has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T20:38:58.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5195" CreationDate="2012-12-28T23:53:18.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best answer there is, as well as the shortest and easiest way to find out, is to talk with as many cyclists you can find in the area. Keep track of their preferences of local or nearby area bike shops. There should be one or two that stand out among the bike shops available. You'll hear both good and bad stories about the same shop from some people. You'll just need to decipher on your own if this is the bike owner not paying attention to a mechanics advice, or if the bike shop mechanic doesn't have proper equipment or training. As long as you're in no hurry for something to be repaired, you should have ample time to talk with any and all cyclists you come across. If there is a bike club in the area, you have lots of knowledge available right there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T23:53:18.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13779" CreationDate="2012-12-29T01:02:55.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both of the cranksets you mention are square taper. That's pretty standard and you shouldn't need to change the bottom backet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To actually do the change you'll need a crank puller and a large hex/allen key (often around 8mm). It can be quite tough to pull the old ones off, even with the right tools. Don't even try and hammer them off, you'll just mash everything up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the square tapers are corroded underneath the cranks then to get a decent fit you might have to change the bottom bracket too. The problem here is that you wont know until you've pulled the old ones off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're putting the new ones on, you'll find they go on easily, but getting them on straight can take some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some debate, I believe, about whether or not to grease the tapers when you're installing the new cranks, I didn't last time I did this. You'll want to get the bolt threads good and slimy though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The derailer should be fine, 4 teeth wont change the size dramatically. If you can find the model number you should be able to find something that tells you the maximum size it'll comfortably take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last idea, if you're comfortable with just the 48 and there's no hills in sight, you could ditch the other 2 rings, front derailer, shiter etc. and save some weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rather blurry photo on the suntour site your current crank doesn't look like it'll rebuild easily, but there are plenty of suitable single cranksets available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2012-12-29T01:08:54.777" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T01:08:54.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13779" CreationDate="2012-12-29T01:22:52.967" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crank you point to would probably fit on your bottom bracket, but might result in a bad chainline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things to consider when replacing your cranks: the interface between the cranks and the bottom bracket, and the distance from the centerline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your old Suntour cranks and the Shimano you link to both use a JIS square taper. So the interface is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your old cranks are designed to be installed on a 122-mm bottom-bracket spindle (and I'll assume that's what you've got), while the Shimano you link to is designed for a 113-mm spindle. You would be going from a triple to a double, which would make up for some of the difference, but I think the Shimano would wind up riding a few mm farther outboard than it's intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could find replacement chainrings that fit your cranks, that would be an easier and cheaper option, but large chainrings for mountain-bike cranks are apparently impossible to find. And I'm not sure what the BCD measurement is on your Suntour cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T01:22:52.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13790" CreationDate="2012-12-29T07:29:03.733" Score="8" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TyLol.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bmx trick; straddling head tube, feet on pedals, hands on front wheel posts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking around a bit on YouTube and found a video for a footjam decade... which is pretty cool, in my opinion. However, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SUAxIJDQ9U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; at 2:44 he rides the bike like a unicycle, straddling the head tube with feet on the pedals... which is freaking cool. What would that even be called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5766" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-01-02T19:11:46.960" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T19:26:15.787" Title="What is it called when you ride a bmx like a unicycle?" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;&lt;tricks&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13780" CreationDate="2012-12-29T21:00:31.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe I'd opt for the drop bars. They give you several different positions; on the drops, on the brake hoods and on the top of the bars. The top of the bars position is fairly close to and upright position like you'd see with regular handlebars. I immediately thought of the hills and winds you can run into in San Francisco! There may be times when a more aerodynamic position would be your best choice for efficiency. Once you get your bicycle set up correctly...seat height and position forward or aft and tilt angle, and the handlebar height, any position you use with drops should be fairly comfortable for your short commute. If you haven't purchased a bike yet, perhaps the local bike shop will allow you a test ride using different handlebars available on bikes they have at the shop. I've even seen the drop bars used upside down for a totally different look and fit.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T21:00:31.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-29T23:33:59.480" Score="3" ViewCount="1468" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is an alternative trailer hitch for the Re~Cycled bike trailer?  This is the webpage of the trailer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.re-cycle.org/sites/re-cycle.org/files/Trailer.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.re-cycle.org/sites/re-cycle.org/files/Trailer.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I don't like it is because it tends to spring open and closed. Maybe use a ball and rod like this?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tn5gkm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ball socket like some trailers use&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5790" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-01-04T22:52:45.637" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T14:02:44.817" Title="What is an alternative hitch for the Re~Cycled bike trailer?" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13786" CreationDate="2012-12-30T01:48:38.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this site on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rc09-noppenberg.de/homepagekrf/RC09_Webordner/4Infos/2Kunstrad/artistic_bicycle.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;artisitic cycling&lt;/a&gt; they refer to a trick called a &quot;head-tube wheelie&quot; which is probably a good name for it. BMX enthusiasts may have a different name for it, but that's essentially what it is.   I was also able to find this other site referring to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gonztronic.blogspot.ca/2009/12/headtube-wheelies.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;headtube wheelies&lt;/a&gt;.  Also, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cx_EwPCFdyg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Youtube video&lt;/a&gt; refers to it as a headtube seated wheelie, and headtube backwheel riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some &lt;a href=&quot;http://pedalbmx.com/posts/view/94179/spinning-forwards-death-trucks/page:2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Googling&lt;/a&gt; with the help of @dotjoe's answer, I've found that this trick is referred to a &quot;Pedalling Death Truck&quot; or a &quot;Blender&quot;.  There's also a trick called the &quot;forwards spinning deathtruck&quot; which is pretty much the same thing except the rider faces the other way around (at least as I understand it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2013-01-02T19:26:15.787" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T19:26:15.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14461" CreationDate="2012-12-30T20:15:17.850" Score="2" ViewCount="6354" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bottom bracket is on its way out.. No longer getting smooth rotation even without chain attached. I was wondering if anyone knew what sort of bottom bracket the frame supports? I've googled but the results are fairly mixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I assume I just need a special bottom bracket wrench to replace it, is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T13:47:05.400" Title="What sort of bottom bracket does a Trek 1.5 2011 take?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13791" CreationDate="2012-12-30T21:21:48.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2011/archive/15u&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek's archives&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2011&amp;amp;Brand=Trek&amp;amp;Model=1.5&amp;amp;Type=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bikepedia&lt;/a&gt;, it looks like that bike has an FSA Vero compact crankset (no mention of the bottom bracket (BB)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0083CP0A2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Amazon page for the FSA Vero Compact&lt;/a&gt; it appears the crank is compatible with a JIS square taper bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;JIS square taper bottom bracket is a common type of cotterless bottom bracket, available from many manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to check that the bottom bracket shell sizing and threading matches the BB, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a special tool to get the crank off and another for the BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cotterless.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown on Cotterless Crank removal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cartridge.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;John Allen on Cartridge BBs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cartridge-bearing-type-bottom-bracket-service-bbt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool on Cartridge BB servicing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-tool-selection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool on BB tool selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/categories/crank-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool on Cranks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-12-31T01:05:19.467" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T01:05:19.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13797" CreationDate="2012-12-30T23:44:30.503" Score="6" ViewCount="3542" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to change the braking system from rim brakes to rotary. I want to replace them because I hate how after a while the pads wear out and I need to replace it so I think the rotary might be better. What would I need to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5793" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2012-12-31T00:39:48.380" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T04:00:56.227" Title="Replacing brake system on a bike" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13794" CreationDate="2012-12-31T01:42:44.640" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you can't replace rim brakes with hub or disk brakes unless the frame is designed for that.  In particular, hub or rim brakes place too much stress on the front fork unless the fork is designed for them.  You're probably better off buying a new bike with the &quot;right&quot; (for you) brakes factory-installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm surprised that you have so much trouble with rim brakes.  I just had my rim brake pads replaced for the first time last year, after putting about 10,000 miles on my current bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T01:42:44.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8812" CreationDate="2012-12-31T04:33:36.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biking is not an upper body work out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a matter of fact: on longer treks I have found my arms getting rather numb. Riding a stationary bicycle that works both arms and legs simultaneously is an upper body workout. Riding a stationary bicycle that just pedals like your standard bicycle is not an upper body work out. Sorry ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are not using your hands on the handle bars and swinging your arms wildly or flapping them, you are not exercising your upper body while riding a standard bicycle. While exercising: make sure you do get enough liquids when riding and don't overdo it, because it can be a long way home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5795" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T23:46:48.860" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T23:46:48.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13794" CreationDate="2012-12-31T06:22:45.820" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most practical solution would be to upgrade your brake pads. They may seem expensive, but both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolstop.com/english/rim_pads.html&quot;&gt;Koolstop&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.swissstop.ch&quot;&gt;SwissStop&lt;/a&gt; work pretty good. Search around, there are many online sellers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see a significant change in brake performance with the right pads installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T06:22:45.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13800" CreationDate="2012-12-31T13:05:48.577" Score="8" ViewCount="1271" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off given that I will be sightseeing as well is it worth the extra weight to take a dedicated cycle shoe and a walking shoe or is the extra hassle of having something else that can go wrong not worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what are some good combinations of pedal and shoe for touring. Should I go for a dedicated touring pedal like the A520/A530? I don't know anything about shoes so some recommendation would be good there as well. I will be touring japan in the summer so it will be warm but still possibly quite wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, how hard is a pedal/shoe combo to set up correctly for comfort? Is it something that's worth getting done in a shop? I have a good LBS and they will most likely do a basic set up for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4987" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T19:56:26.117" Title="Good pedal and shoe combination for summer touring" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13798" CreationDate="2012-12-31T13:54:53.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone has different strategies for touring. I prefer to travel light and wouldn't want extra shoes. Others prefer to be more comfortable, and prefer to carry more. I'd say an extra pair of light weight shoes are a good idea if you prefer to use clipless pedals and plan to do a lot of walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those pedals are a good choice if you plan to have extra shoes. Just get some comfortable mountain bike shoes (they protect the cleats better than road shoes) with good breathability (I like my Giro Carbide shoes) for riding and take some other comfortable shoes for walking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, If you don't mind eschewing clipless pedals and shoes I've used hold fast straps with BMX platform pedals for touring with regular non-clipless shoes. You have to be careful that they are adjusted properly and that your shoes are not too far forward or back, since improper foot position can cause pain from bad habits like &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_an-z.html#ankling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ankling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T13:54:53.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13798" CreationDate="2012-12-31T14:18:59.007" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preference is for SPD clipless pedals and &quot;walkable&quot; clipless shoes.  But I still have a pair of lightweight &quot;tennis shoes&quot; in my gear for campsite, days off, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option, if you can still find them, is the old-fashioned &quot;touring&quot; shoes and regular toe straps.  &quot;Touring&quot; shoes are (or were) quite walkable, and it's reasonable to walk miles in them (whereas you'd not like to do that in even &quot;walkable&quot; clipless shoes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a little tricky setting up clipless shoes -- the cleat position needs to be positioned correctly.  Partly this is trial and error (be sure to get your setup early to try it out), but a shop can help you get the right &quot;initial conditions&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For those who've never seen them, touring shoes look superficially like bowling shoes, with relatively flat, smooth soles, to more easily slip into and out of toe clips.  Unlike bowling shoes, however, the soles are reasonably stiff -- flexible enough for easy walking but stiff enough so that the pressure of the pedal is reasonably well distributed over the bottom of the foot.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-01-01T20:41:55.920" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T20:41:55.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13803" CreationDate="2012-12-31T14:24:09.670" Score="2" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use indexed 10-speed microshift bar end shifters (on &lt;a href=&quot;http://retroshift.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;retroshift&lt;/a&gt; levers) with 9-speed deore lx rear derailleur and 10-speed 11-36 cassette? If not, What rear derailleur would work with the microshift shifters in indexed mode with this cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2012-12-31T17:24:34.407" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T17:29:00.853" Title="Can I use microshift bar end shifters with 9-speed deore lx rear derailleur and 10-speed cassette?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13801" CreationDate="2012-12-31T17:29:00.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So long as it's a 10s shifter with a 10s cassette it should work. Many derailleurs will work so long as they have enough chain capacity and they can fully extend to the highest and lowest gears&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5800" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T17:29:00.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13730" CreationDate="2012-12-31T17:49:16.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to adjusting the posture (primarily seat) on the bike, you may also experiment with using slightly &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; air in your tires, as this will reduce the harshness of ride more than frame material.  Bicycle Quarterly has a nice chart on recommended inflation pressures based on weight and bicycle type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For extra bar padding, I'd recommend doubling up on the ubiquitous cork tape as it's cheap and, if done right, will hold up for the entire season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One nice thing about gloves is they help mitigate the perspiration.  Also, snot-rockets notwithstanding, having a soft, terry cloth thumb to wipe the nose is a nice creature comfort. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3022" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T17:49:16.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="47165" CreationDate="2012-12-31T19:20:26.593" Score="0" ViewCount="1517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought the Shimano Saint PD-MX80 flat pedals. According to the user's manual, an optional reflector set is available for them. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/content/si/pedal/english/PD-MX80/_jcr_content/headerpar/sidownload_0/file.res/C%3a%5Cfakepath%5CDM-PD0001-00-ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano's dealer's manual&lt;/a&gt; one can read that the reflector set is called SM-PD64 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/content/si/pedal/english/Reflector/_jcr_content/par/sidownload/file.res/SI-PD64A-000-00_ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;according service instructions&lt;/a&gt;). However, I didn't succeed finding a store selling them (I could not find it neither on ebay, amazon, froogle nor several bike shops I know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone has some suggestions on finding stuff which is obviously sold not so often (preferrably a store shipping to Germany)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5801" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T12:46:31.673" Title="Finding store selling SM-PD64 reflectors for the Shimano Saint PD-MX80 flat pedals?" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13730" CreationDate="2012-12-31T21:26:59.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that many drop bars are too skinny, putting a lot of pressure on a very small area of my hands. A wider gripping surface seemed to help relieve a lot of pressure. Consider adding some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/gripstape/handlebar-tape/body-geometry-bar-shapers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bar Shapers&lt;/a&gt; under the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also add some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/gripstape/handlebar-tape/body-geometry-bar-phat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bar Phat&lt;/a&gt; under the tape to give more gel-cushioning. Then you don't have to use your padded gloves all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T21:26:59.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13805" CreationDate="2012-12-31T22:35:28.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with reflectors but I do have experience with ordering &quot;bit parts&quot; from Shimano so may be able to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step was to go to the Shimano site and find the official distributors for my country (UK). I was quite surprised since I'd never heard of them, but fortunately they had a website etc. (So if you have no joy with the German distributor, you may wish to try the UK distributor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I contacted them, these people were happy enough to order the stuff for me, but (a) relatively-speaking they were very expensive, and (b) they took an age to arrive - it was like the distributor had to order them from Japan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I tell you that what I had was some SL cleats, and all I wanted was something as simple as some replacement screws (this was when I first started riding, one of mine fell out one day so I figured it would be sensible to get some spares). With hindsight I should have just bought some new cleats, which of course I ended up doing anyway eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its as few years ago but I can have a look through my old emails and find out exactly who I ordered off, if you can't find this on the Shimano site. Let me know if you'd like me to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T10:06:26.383" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T10:06:26.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13805" CreationDate="2013-01-01T18:41:09.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My searching for those reflectors also ran into a dead end. You may posssibly want to consider using some light reflecting tape cut to the desired shape or even light reflecting paint for that same area. Excellent light reflecting tape like is used by emergency vehicles and road signs is available in many hardware stores as is the light reflecting paint. Either of these alternatives should also save weight. The light reflecting tape is also excellent for use on your helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T18:41:09.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13798" CreationDate="2013-01-01T20:28:04.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grant Petersen has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=45&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;interesting article&lt;/a&gt; about clipless pedals and their perceived benefits for recreational riding. I would recommend reading it and then making up your mind. Quickly summarized it says that you won't have any benefits for normal riding and that you therefore should ride in the type of shoes you find to be the most pratical and comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="4644" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T19:56:26.117" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T19:56:26.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13786" CreationDate="2013-01-01T21:17:02.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bmx name for the trick would probably be a pedaling death truck. A normal death truck is that same position, but with the feet on the back pegs. As you can imagine, that would leave you fairly stretched out and it'd be a nasty position to bail from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T21:17:02.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13816" CreationDate="2013-01-01T23:30:56.077" Score="59" ViewCount="198324" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes? Are hydraulics more reliable? Or more powerful? I'm curious since, hydraulics seem to get more attention and seem to be on professional bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5767" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T22:18:58.390" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T06:40:57.917" Title="Hydraulic Vs. Mechanical disc brakes" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13817" CreationDate="2013-01-01T23:39:28.710" Score="0" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Victory VEGASJACKPOT bike with cable disk brakes, and I need to loosen my cable tension. How do you do this? I've already done it all the way on the screw/knob by the brake lever.&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5767" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T04:45:49.680" Title="How to loosen cable tension in disc brakes" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2013-01-01T23:48:14.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, strange. It does seem that the velomobile would be more expensive, and I've seen only one in my short lifetime. Recumbents seem to be gaining popularity, though, especially in oceanside towns. As user Paul H. said, they do seem to be more popular among seniors. Maybe it's because they have more time to enjoy them? &#xA;Anyway, I think that people might shy away from these bikes because these bikes are more expensive and people might think of them as unusual or strange. Also, they might not want to spend money on a new type of bike when they could get a more traditional bike that they know works for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5767" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T23:48:14.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13813" CreationDate="2013-01-02T01:13:40.123" Score="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydraulics are used on higher end systems, cables are often a sign of a cheap brake set, so your observations are correct regarding &quot;professional&quot; bikes. However there are very good cable disc brakes (e.g. Avid BB7's) that are the exception that proves the rule. . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cables have the disadvantage of friction that hydraulics virtually eliminate. It is significantly easier to modulate hydraulic brakes, you get more force delivered to the pads, hence more stopping power for the same input, and faster/more reliable and predictable pad retraction when releasing the brakes. &#xA;As the Hydraulic system is sealed, grit and grime cannot get in to jam up the moving bits, making them virtually maintenance free (replace worn pads is about all need doing)&#xA;Hydraulic systems are also easier to set up and adjust (with the right tools - next to impossible without them). Cables have to the exact length, and need &quot;tweaking&quot; as they stretch from new.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said - a good quality and well maintained cable system will out perform a poor quality, cheap hydraulic brake set, so you cannot state &quot;Its hydraulic therefore it's better&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages of hydraulics occur when you get a leak such as hole in a hose or blown seal. They are less &quot;field serviceable&quot; than cables, essentially the brake is rendered useless and unrepairable (in the field) by a minor fault - which fortunately happens very rarely, and usually caused by poor transport rather than while out riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reported problem with hydraulics is boiling of fluid. This is more of a problem on road bikes where mountain descents of 100's of vertical meters in a very short time are more common. With overheated fluid initially the pressure in the system stops the fluid boiling. When the brake is released (even for a moment), the pressure comes off and fluid boils, and the brakes no longer work - at all - the lever just goes all the way in. Another thing that can happen is the rider stops with no problems, but the heat in the calliper (no longer being cooled by airflow) migrates to the fluid over the next few minutes, so when the rider rides off there are no brakes.  (This is different to disc fade where the pads and disc overheat and brakes loss effectiveness slowly - both types suffer this equally.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch out in the future for Hydraulic shifters.... Available now if you have the big $$$$, lighter weight than XT and XX level components, almost certainly more reliable and easier to setup.... (Update 2015- Electric shifters mean these will not become main stream.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T22:04:06.247" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T22:04:06.247" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13814" CreationDate="2013-01-02T04:45:49.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the following from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycle-systems-academy.co.uk/index.php/topics/brakes/cable-tension-and-setting-brakes/tensioning-a-cable-disc-brake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt;, and if you go to the website there are pictures as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On the actual brake, loosen the caliper fixing bolts with an allen&#xA;  key, both top and bottom. Once you do that feed the cable through the&#xA;  brake caliper from the barrel adjuster at the top of the caliper&#xA;  through the fixing bolt at the bottom, and once you have achieved the&#xA;  correct tension then fix it down by tightening the bolt with an allen&#xA;  key. The next step is to squeeze the relevant lever whilst jiggling&#xA;  the caliper sideways in order to help it find its best seated&#xA;  position. Once you have done this, and keeping the relevant lever&#xA;  squeezed, you can now tighten the top and bottom caliper fixing bolts.&#xA;  After this, you will need to back up the inner dial (fixed pad) a&#xA;  couple of clicks before ending up with the brake pad in the middle of&#xA;  the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5766" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T04:45:49.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13884" CreationDate="2013-01-02T05:42:10.270" Score="8" ViewCount="2257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a new build and for the first time, I'm working with a frame that requires an Italian bottom bracket. My question isn't specific to the build, but a general question about chainline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the same crankset, say &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=5D1F43ED-82EC-48D0-B6E2-65F92ECDFCBE&amp;amp;Enum=115&amp;amp;AbsPos=1&quot;&gt;Shimano FC-6400&lt;/a&gt;, the corresponding English BB would have a 113 mm symmetric spindle (i.e. 3H or D-3H), while the corresponding Italian BB would have a 115 symmetric spindle (i.e. 5H or D-5H).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would the spindle lengths be different at all? Why wouldn't the Italian BB spindle have the bearing shoulders further apart by 2 mm while keeping the 113 mm length? Would the chainline not increase by 1 mm in this case? If so, how should this be accounted for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T04:51:47.073" Title="English vs Italian bottom bracket - chainline considerations" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13820" CreationDate="2013-01-02T05:59:03.993" Score="1" ViewCount="1839" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to fixing bikes, i'm not to crash-hot. I can clean grime, oil the chain and put it back on if it falls off. However, when it comes to the inner tubes I usually rely on someone else to get me another tube and put it on for me (I can put them on, but in that sense I'm too lazy). So, today, when I went to pump up the tyres I found they had a puncture and I would prefer to change them as I haven't ridden this bike in a LONG time, only I'm not sure if there has to be a certain size tube. Help? Please? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5804" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T06:14:42.770" Title="Is there a certain size tube for my tyres?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13819" CreationDate="2013-01-02T06:14:42.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each tube reference size fits a certain number of tire sizes.&#xA;For example, I ride 700x23c tires and my tubes are 700-18-23c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just find out the size of your tire (should be written on the sidewall) and go out for a tube that will hav this tire size in its fitting range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful about the valve specification too. get a tube with the same valve type as your previous tube/as your wheel supports : &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_u-v.html#valve&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_u-v.html#valve&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T06:14:42.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13825" CreationDate="2013-01-02T13:32:38.033" Score="7" ViewCount="2989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute ~20 km a day and decided to give clipless pedals a try. I installed my cleats following a guide on the web: under the ball of the foot, very slightly behind to relieve the toes, especially since I am just commuting and touring, so not focused on pure speed. I loved it from the start!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, I was feeling like I was my saddle got suddenly too low.&#xA;Probably I was pedaling too much &quot;with my heels&quot; when riding flat (which maybe explains even more how the performance gain is spectacular).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered the saddle height from a few different perspectives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I moved my saddle up and it felt way better while riding.&#xA;Still, at the height where it &quot;feels&quot; the best, my knee is slightly bent which seems fine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the general rule-of-thumb of having the barefoot heel just touch the pedal with the leg completely straight when the pedal is completely down, my barefoot foot is a little under an inch hovering over the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I know that Master Sheldon also stated another rule-of-thumb being that the proper saddle height is: the highest possible without wobbling the hips down to reach for pedals. So I would be fine from that point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which rule of thumb is most important? Is it a problem that my heel can't touch the pedal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to my other problem which is an obvious leak in a bike maneuvering/driving having learnt on my own at the age of 20+ ... : I cannot start without sitting on the saddle already. I have no trouble getting up from the saddle for some power pedaling, even just a second after starting, but I cannot get to start outside of the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until now it was fine since I have quite a low bottom bracket and I could stand on my tip toe on one side and be sitting, but with the height increase, this is becoming a very painful option since I am on my very tip-tip-toe and a stop over 20 seconds is very uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it is a leak on my side. But it just freaks me out. It is probably that as much the fact of starting out of the saddle as much as it is starting with a position way more in the front of the bike than usual, it just does not feel right, I feel I will lose balance (since the &quot;usual comfort position&quot; is way more in the back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like an idiot but just can't seem to overcome that &quot;fear&quot; (yep, ridiculous, I know...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same goes for stopping, feels weird to have to brake and get one's butt so much in front and so low at the same time,...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-01-02T21:30:51.323" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T21:30:51.323" Title="Clipless pedals, saddle height and proper starting (and stopping)" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13821" CreationDate="2013-01-02T13:42:39.703" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;rule of thumb&quot; (which as you stated is slightly different from the one I know) is only that.  The geometry of the shoe and pedal can easily make a half inch to an inch of difference from one pedal/shoe combo to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I learned you place the heels of your SHOES on the pedal and pedal backwards to check seat height -- the legs should go fully extended.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not clear why you have trouble starting.  I always start with one foot clipped in and clip the other foot once I'm going, and I suppose that makes one a little less stable standing.  But a lot depends on how much momentum you get from that first quarter rotation of the clipped-in foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T13:42:39.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13729" CreationDate="2013-01-02T13:49:08.137" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all: do not bother trying to patch too big holes.&#xA;If it is just too big, just trash the tube.&#xA;It is cheap enough and it's better than struggling and trying 10 patchings, wasting a whole patch kit all just to end up with it leaking and having a flat tire in the middle of nowhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have already successfully patched a hole as big as 5 mm. It was that big that the tube could not even be inflated to find the leak, it was not a leak, it was just an opening...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that I used of of the bigger patches that are included in most kits. That worked just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that I learned that my biggest mistake of patching over time was not to let the cement dry long enough. 5 or 7 minutes seems about fine before applying the patch. And do not hesitate to put it on a large surface to make 100% sure 100% of the patch surface is on a treated surface.&#xA;This is actually easy to overlook especially on narrower tubes (such as those for 23mm and less tyres). And when applying the patch, make sure to press it hard on the tube, and especially the edges: these are the critical parts that you want the most to stick to the tube since they will be the first to &quot;suffer&quot; when facing an inflation, and if an edge loses adherence, it is the whole patch that is compromised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had the feeling that the &quot;feather&quot; edges attach better handle better the expansion when inflated than the straight edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T13:49:08.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13821" CreationDate="2013-01-02T19:10:56.973" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb of &quot;the highest possible without wobbling the hips down to reach for pedals&quot; seems like a better rule than &quot;having the barefoot heel just touch the pedal with the leg completely straight when the pedal is completely down&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your saddle is at the right height, it should be difficult to place a foot on the ground while seated. Now that your saddle is at what seems to be a more appropriate height, you may have to change any habits that developed during the time that you had a lower saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remaining seated on the saddle at a stop is uncomfortable on a well fitted bike. You should find stops much more comfortable if you stand over your top tube with one foot flat on the ground. With a bit of practice, you should be able to use a single push with your foot to simultaneously begin to pedal forward while lifting yourself onto the saddle. Clipless pedals make this easier because you can easily position the crank by &quot;pedaling backwards&quot; to the desired position. With a little bit of practice, this will become perfectly natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T19:10:56.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13828" CreationDate="2013-01-02T23:12:08.840" Score="29" ViewCount="139054" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do women's bikes have a diagonal bar in the frame instead of a horizontal frame? Is this the only difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this has been asked (but I cannot find it by searching) and I also just cannot think of a reason why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3258" LastEditorUserId="26152" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T13:31:58.207" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T10:29:15.790" Title="What are the differences between men's and women's bike frames?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13826" CreationDate="2013-01-02T23:49:00.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There aren't more than two things going on here really. One, women are generally shorter. Two, someone probably thought the quickest way to be able to differentiate the women's models was to slant the top bar a little, and it caught on. It's not by any means a standard, and most well built bicycles don't have much difference in shape between the women's and men's beyond size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T23:49:00.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13826" CreationDate="2013-01-03T00:35:36.037" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Way back when safety bikes were becoming popular, women wore skirts. Skirt lengths were to the ankle. The dropped top bar made getting on possible while maintaining respectability. Women were considered too fragile to risk hitting the top tube, hence the slanted bar. The trend continued even long after women stopped riding in long skirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern WSD (women specific design) geometry differs from conventional bike geometry. The difference goes beyond just size. Whether it is needed depends on who you ask. While some women may be smaller than the average male, many are as tall; height is not the only issue. Many women have a different leg to torso ratio than the male average and the frames are built to fit that difference. This is not to say that a women needs a female specific frame or that a male wouldn't fit on a WSD frame. It all depends on the individual physical traits of the rider.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2020-03-05T10:29:15.790" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T10:29:15.790" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13826" CreationDate="2013-01-03T00:55:31.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Except for differences in size (because women tend to be shorter than men), women's frames are no different than men's frames, really. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File%3aTriumph_Bicycle.JPG&quot;&gt;step-through&lt;/a&gt;&quot; frames have typically been marketed as women's frames in the USA, they're ridden by both men and women elsewhere. This type of frame is very convenient for utility and commuter bikes in urban areas where one may want to mount/dismount without swinging a leg over the back of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In other words, the step-through is not really a women's frame&lt;/em&gt;. It is just a commuter/city-bike design that is not as sporty looking as a proper diamond frame, but if you're wearing regular trousers or a skirt they're easier to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastEditorUserId="1998" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T06:06:11.467" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T06:06:11.467" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13831" CreationDate="2013-01-03T04:32:03.657" Score="1" ViewCount="2609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried upgrading to some 28mm but as you can see clearance is very tight. In some spots, the tire doesn't fully clear the brake (Tektro R350). The fork barely has enough clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth trying to get an extra mm or 2 with a different brake? I searched around and I saw Tektro has long-arm options, but it's not the arm-length that's limiting, it's the shape of the top of the brake itself. Any brake recommendations? (already read &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6420/how-to-get-more-tire-clearance-with-caliper-brakes&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; - I'm hoping to stick with Tektro or any other fairly inexpensive option, and I only need the front brake.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5DJA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clearance&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2151" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T19:48:34.660" Title="Extend clearance for a 28mm tire" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13830" CreationDate="2013-01-03T05:44:07.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there's space you could look into mounting your brake behind the fork crown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because your forks are (I assume) raked then there will be more clearance for the tire on the back side of the crown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do turn a front brake backwards, be sure to swap the pads around so they're still facing the right way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=79&amp;amp;sortname=Brake&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=79&amp;amp;sortname=Brake&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T05:51:49.933" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T05:51:49.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-03T10:11:49.213" Score="11" ViewCount="3416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/review/16799-shimano-pda600-spd-pedal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano PDA600 SPD pedals&lt;/a&gt; along with a pair of cheap-ish &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.louisgarneau.com/in-en/product/305569/1487167/MTB/TERRA_MTB_SHOES&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Garneau Terra MTB shoes&lt;/a&gt; in early 2012. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wear them for my daily commute (approx. 18 Km) and semi-regular long distance rides. I also walk on the street with them - to the office, pub, etc...not very far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleats when new have right-angled edges, but now they have been &quot;worn&quot;/&quot;smoothed&quot; into more curved edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use they &quot;feel&quot; a little bit loose, but sometimes they feel quite sticky (hard to remove my foot from the pedal), so I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On other pedals, I've changed cleats every few years, but I rode a lot less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qmEAx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left shoe cleat&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z17J6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right shoe cleat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a recommended period of time (based on usage, etc) to change cleats on MTB shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there any suggestions on how to increase the life of your cleats? (I guess one would be don't walk on the street!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T18:57:17.297" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T13:38:20.463" Title="How often should I change my mountain SPD bikeshoe cleats?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13833" CreationDate="2013-01-03T13:44:56.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, there's no time frame that's given as a guideline. I would think that the reason for that is that there are too many rider-specific factors that contribute to their wear, or lack thereof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always heard that they should be changed when they're either hard to engage, won't stay engaged, or hard to disengage. Under that criteria, it sounds like yours are due. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, as DanielRHicks suggested, it could be the pedals that are worn out. Personally, I'd try the cleats first since they're cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T13:44:56.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13813" CreationDate="2013-01-03T13:45:59.133" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to @mattnz's response; most cable disk brake systems work by operating one pad only - and squeezing the rotor onto a stationary pad.  This means that as the pad wears down, you typically have to wind in the moving pad (usually the outside one) to keep the right bite point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic systems usually have opposing pads that self adjust for central alignment and also as the pads wear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(When I manufactured disk brake parts, I used to use cable disk brakes a lot on test rigs because they are so adjustable. However, out on the trail, a good set of hydraulic brakes are much better performing all round)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5603" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T04:04:07.813" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T04:04:07.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13648" CreationDate="2013-01-03T16:10:19.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/06/13/bicycle-quarterly-performance-of-tires/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article on rolling resistance&lt;/a&gt; mentions as an aside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(We later found that temperature greatly affects the rolling&#xA;  resistance of tires.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the change often occurs at the same time and in the same way as that described so thoroughly above, it could add up to something very noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, I would assume that a wet road would cause additional rolling resistance as the tire has to move aside or pick up a little water as it rolls. I can certainly detect additional road noise on wet, or even damp, days, so this energy must be coming from somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T16:10:19.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-03T16:10:55.913" Score="5" ViewCount="979" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to start training for a May gravel century at the end of March. This is my first century. I plan to follow this training schedule here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kintera.org/htmlcontent.asp?cid=54755&quot;&gt;http://www.kintera.org/htmlcontent.asp?cid=54755&lt;/a&gt;. My concern is that I commute by bike to work, which is 6 miles each way. Tuesday through Friday's rides will be on a stationary at the gym over lunch, which means I'll be also riding two separate 6 mile rides on those days. On one hand I'll be putting an additional 12 miles in. On the other hand they won't be consecutive miles and will be broken into 3 different rides those days. Should I adjust the training miles to account for this, or just ignore my commute miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4841" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T03:18:08.143" Title="How should I train for a century while still commuting by bike to work?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;century&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-03T16:26:26.033" Score="0" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the 18&quot; cheap Schwalbe iMPAC Streetpac 47-355 tires that came with my Birdy folding bike with puncture resistante tires. I almost never ride on country roads, so thinner tires are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does someone know of alternatives to the Schwalbe Marathon Plus 35-355?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2922" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T18:30:45.050" Title="Puncture resistant 18&quot; tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13837" CreationDate="2013-01-03T16:38:40.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother adding in the commute miles. You should be focusing on getting your ride distances up, rather than nickle-and-diming a mile here or there. I went through one of these training routines for a charity ride 7 years ago; just follow their schedule and you'll get there. These things are tried and true. Hundreds of riders use them every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T16:38:40.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13833" CreationDate="2013-01-03T16:41:35.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have similar problems as you describe, but mine come from dirt, mud, and other things that get caught in while doing MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, the Shimano SPD pedals develop some sort of a lip as they wear out, in the side &quot;ramps&quot; that rise the cleat when you twist the foot sideways. It happens in similar fashion as if you repeatedly hit the end of a metal rod with a hammer, until it deforms and starts to look like a nail head. This &quot;lip&quot; makes it very difficult to twist the foot, hence it is difficult to release the cleat from the pedal. The solution I have implemented is to file those lips out every now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close inspection to the pedal clamp mechanism is all it takes, scratch the ramps with your fingernail and if you feel a little stop near the end of it, then you file it and repeat the fingernail test until your nail can freely slide out of the ramp... Sometimes it is so little that even sandpaper can do the job. After that, clean the mechanism the best you can with a toothbrush and apply some lubricant. Apply lubricant also when you feel it's necessary. (I do it before every MTB ride, but almost every 10 rides for city commuting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding cleats, at least for me, I never change them, my shoes usually die first, then I try to put the same cleat on new shoes, and only if the bolt is too hard to remove (happened once) then I use new cleats...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My oldest pedals are 13 years old now, in the bike I use the most (the MTB for XC and light DH), have other 2 bikes with old SPD on them (commuting or urban riding), but only one pair of shoes for everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:52:43.920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:52:43.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13837" CreationDate="2013-01-03T17:13:24.793" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a &quot;short cut&quot;.  I commonly take a &quot;short cut&quot; on my 10-mile commute, riding up to a neighboring community and then down a bike trail, adding another 17 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added: The advantage to this is that you're already dressed and on your bike, so the time required will be ONLY the additional time you actually spend on your bike.  Get going 90 minutes earlier in the morning or get home 90 minutes later in the PM -- no extra changing, no extra showers, no extra hauling the bike around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-01-04T18:18:24.567" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T18:18:24.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13826" CreationDate="2013-01-03T17:41:02.377" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;For MTB I have observed that many bikes marketed as woman specific are almost a scam, they are only the same frame with different colors and lower grade transmission parts (I remember one where the male model was 9 spd while the female was 8 spd, but the frame had pink patches... )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before any feminist starts pointing out that I'm a male rider, let me state I have built a couple of bike for female riders, and also have shared the trails with many females that got their bikes on their own...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have studied many models of &quot;women's bikes&quot;, and even from reputable brands I often find that the only meaningful difference is in the saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another difference that can really mean something is that some makers size their frames &quot;Small&quot;, &quot;Medium&quot;, &quot;Large&quot; and &quot;Extra Large&quot; rather than giving a size in inches, so it may happen that for some brand &quot;Medium&quot; for male means 17&quot; and for female means 15&quot;. Outside that, the rest of specifications in the geometry for the same model of frame are usually the same, or small enough that are negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, a woman's bike has a very sloped top tube. This applies mostly to classic and urban bikes. This feature was initially created to let women ride while wearing their dresses. It also allows for easy mounting and dismounting without requiring to raise any leg prominently. However, this design is a bit weaker compared to the diamond frame design, so it is less used in mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least in my country, the people has too many different sizes (because we have such a big mix of races in our ancestors) and while it's true that women have different proportions than men, it is also true that there can be huge differences among males as can be among females. For example, given two people of the same gender and height, one of them can have longer legs than the other, this can hold true both for women or men. These two people clearly can not ride the same bike without some sort of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame size and geometry is only one step in bike fit, you still have seatpost length, stem length, stem angle, steerer tube length and the corresponding steem spacers, handlebar style and size and saddle fore/aft position and saddle angle. As long as my experience recalls, adjusting these variables is enough to achieve a proper fit (as long as your frame is not too far from the ideal size) regardless of your gender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are a few tips that usually can narrow your search for components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saddle&lt;/strong&gt;: As I said before, this is the only area where I have seen that there are real differences. First, while it is true that female anatomy is different from male anatomy, it is also true that there can be huge differences from one person of one gender to another of the same, so not every woman will be O.K. just with a woman's saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The female riders I know are usually fine with wider saddles than a man of similar size, remember women usually have wider hips. When the saddle has a cut groove in the center, females usually have a saddle that has a wider groove towards the front, while males are fine with a saddle that has a groove of uniform width. Also, when using a saddle that does not have any grooves, women tend to &quot;nose down&quot; the saddle angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This remembers me that the most reasonable &quot;woman's saddle&quot; design I have ever seen, rather than having a longitudinal groove, had a curved depression that begins roughly and inch behind the tip of the nose and ended there the &quot;wings&quot; begin to spread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grips&lt;/strong&gt;: Women tend to have smaller hands, so a thinner grip (resulting in smaller overall diameter) can be more suitable. Also adjust brake lever reach so the lever is closer to the grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handlebar&lt;/strong&gt;: Its width is related to the rider shoulder to shoulder width, but then you have to account for riding style and technique, so I don't take the bait on women's handlebars. For any rider, if a narrower-that-can-be-bought MTB handlebar is needed, it is fine to simply cut it off (just cut the same length from both sides). I have also seen women's handlebars marketed as such because they have smaller diameter at the ends, but, unless you buy the corresponding grip, you wont be able to use it. That's why I rather recommend to buy thinner grips (or thicker if that's the case) that provide the same final result. And unless there is color and decorative design involved, you don't necessarily need grips to be designed for women to be thinner (smaller outer diameter), there are smaller grips at the same price of regular ones, you just have to find them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sources: The wife, the sister, a couple of female rider friends and 3 racer ladies.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; A few months after I wrote this answer I saw a trend in certain brand where the frames designed for women are a bit smaller but also have a shorter effective top tube, that is, they have less distance between the seat tube and the head tube. This makes sense for women that have proportionally longer legs and smaller torso + shorter arms, since this design would allow for a handlebar that is &quot;closer to the rider&quot; without using a super-short stem (which can cause a funky steering feeling at first). Funny enough, this difference is visually noticeable only in their 29ers. Side note: This difference also makes for a shorter wheelbase bike (the wheel axles are closer) which makes the bike feel more agile and easy to maneuver for a smaller person whereas a larger person would feel the same bike as &quot;twitchy&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T20:40:49.233" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T20:40:49.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13826" CreationDate="2013-01-03T20:11:12.060" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference in height between a 5'10&quot; (178 cm) man and a 5'5&quot; (165 cm) woman is 8%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if men and women have the same shape, and if their bikes have the same shape, and if the man's bike has 28-inch (700 cm) wheels, then the woman's bike should have 26-inch wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I've found that small-framed road bikes or hybrid bikes, claimed to be suitable for women, still have 28-inch wheels: which changes their shape, and how well they fit the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;26-inch wheels exist but seem to be more standard for &quot;mountain bikes&quot; than for road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of inches can make a real difference to how well a bike fits the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of or as well as asking the difference between a &quot;mens&quot; and a &quot;womens&quot; bike, it might be accurate/important to ask the difference between bikes for taller and shorter riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I also just cannot think of a reason why...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from wearing a skirt, another reason seems to be so that her feet can touch the ground when she hops off the saddle at a stop, because of sitting too high to begin with, perhaps because of the wheels are bit too large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T20:11:12.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2013-01-03T20:23:38.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest reason is that recumbent and velomobiles are not popular besides price, is simply they not UCI compliant, if you cannot legally race them, why would you want to spend big bucks on a bike you can't race&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5812" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T20:23:38.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-03T21:30:18.527" Score="-1" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will the Deore 590 be ok ?  Any other alternatives ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5813" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T07:29:22.937" Title="What kind of (cheap) chainrings can be used with a Deore CS-HG51 cassette" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13826" CreationDate="2013-01-04T03:45:20.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Women have different leg/arm/torso ratios, so if a frame truly has a women specific geometry, you're going to typically see a shorter effective toptube and longer seat tube &amp;amp; headtube. For really small women's frames (and men's for that matter), the geometry starts to get really wonky because the wheel size and BB height typically don't change. I won't elaborate any further because I think you're asking more about step-through frames than you are women-specific frames. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Step through frames are thought of as women-specific, although typically these are cheap bikes where there is no difference between the standard and the stepthrough geometry. The only difference is the shape and angle of the toptube which has no effect on the geometry of the frame or the contact points for your body (ie pedals, saddle, handlebars).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just like with most things there are exceptions to this rule- for instance, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.breezerbikes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Breezer&lt;/a&gt; makes nice step through commuters with slightly shorter cockpits for the stepthrough models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T03:45:20.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13837" CreationDate="2013-01-04T03:53:54.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ignore the commute miles and follow the training schedule. Maybe take it just a bit easier on your commute for the days with a training ride than you normally would. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Whatever you do, don't give up the commutes. They help maintain your fitness throughout the week. I have never been in as good of shape as when I was training and commuting simultaneously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T03:53:54.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11031" CreationDate="2013-01-04T04:04:30.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rented a bike in London some years back and had swap the brake levers because they were set up with front braking on the right hand side. Despite riding a motorcycle I can't deal with &quot;moto style&quot; brake setup on any bicycle. If you don't like it, you don't like it, and I suggest you swap the levers. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I'm having a really hard time coming up with any hydraulic levers that have side-specific reservoirs. Every pair I've ever seen, used, worked on, or sold were identical on both sides. Makes sense from a financial standpoint for the manufacturers not to have different tooling for left vs right lever bodies.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I believe your mechanic is mistaken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T04:04:30.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13851" CreationDate="2013-01-04T09:13:43.973" Score="8" ViewCount="7034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to ride long distance like 200 km on my hybrid. I am not sure if I should pedal in a higher cadence (a lower gear, pedaling more frequently) or a lower cadence (a higher gear, pedaling less frequently) for the same distance.  Or should I mix between both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please suggest? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-01-04T17:56:27.830" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T18:13:48.133" Title="Higher cadence or lower cadence for long distance cycling" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13849" CreationDate="2013-01-04T09:27:29.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Optimum efficiency is usually quoted as being somewhere above 80rpm which is usually a good deal faster than most people spin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://adventure.howstuffworks.com/outdoor-activities/triathlons/training/cycling-cadence1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://adventure.howstuffworks.com/outdoor-activities/triathlons/training/cycling-cadence1.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T09:27:29.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13849" CreationDate="2013-01-04T10:01:09.330" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out on the road its a mixture. But first, are you able to measure your cadence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this as my guide (i.e. I try and keep my cadence within a certain range no matter what the gradient) - if I am able to pedal comfortably at over 80rpm, then its time to change to a bigger gear. If I'm unable to pedal comfortably at 65rpm, its time to go to a smaller gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's my scientific approach. Alternatively, when it starts hurting I change down, and when it feels too easy I change up. But again I'm trying to maintain a constant-ish cadence. Climbing hills obviously takes it out of you as you're climbing them but generally speaking it should only be a short while (minutes) after you've passed the summit before you're able to pedal as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But over that kind of distance you'll need to take your nutrition seriously - keeping your energy levels up will be to key to allowing you to control your cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T10:01:09.330" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3730" CreationDate="2013-01-04T10:51:04.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most comprehensive &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/h/option/bikesizeguide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike sizing chart&lt;/a&gt; I've found is from Wiggle and it also explains how to use the charts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd rather avoid shop-bias then &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesmadeeasy.com/?page_id=48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; also has some explanation and a simple chart at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that you should probably go for a professional &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikedynamics.co.uk/BikeSizing.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike sizing from someone like BikeDynamics&lt;/a&gt; (if you're in the UK). This is pretty cheap compared to the price of a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T10:51:04.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13837" CreationDate="2013-01-04T11:10:11.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did my first 100 miles in October, I didn't train enough and it was extremely painful and unpleasant. Get the miles in or suffer like hell. You have been warned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T11:10:11.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2013-01-04T12:49:47.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Against the rules, but I couldn't resist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e5CWc.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T12:49:47.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-04T13:11:22.363" Score="3" ViewCount="2988" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any small non-folding bikes, of relatively good quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I see around, Brompton/Dahon produce only folding ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, should be under 10 kg, and have a few gears (but single gear is fine as well). I don't care so much about the structure (frame type/wheel size), as long as I can use it comfortably for short city distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't entirely exclude folding ones - but the folding mechanism clearly has a cost, and it's something I don't really need. The target is more a bike with small frame/wheels, and longer saddle/handlebar supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Big Shot Mini Polo would be a good option, but the seller said they don't produce it anymore.&#xA;The A-Bike could be an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a ~70/75kg 5'10&quot; person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;====================&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Post purchase edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up buying an A-Bike, and while on paper it could be an acceptable bike, its engineering is a disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding on 6&quot; wheels is not a big problem. The problems are two:&#xA;- it's very, very hard to pedal&#xA;- the sprockets will consume and become unusable after sometime&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This bike will not last more than a few months. DO NOT BUY IT.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;====================&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now, what appears to be a good option, is the Dahon Jifo - the price is unfortunately high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5819" LastEditorUserId="5819" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T08:02:12.687" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T08:02:12.687" Title="Small non-folding bike" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13855" CreationDate="2013-01-04T13:16:56.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bigshotbikes.com/polo-bikes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Big Shot Bikes Polo Bikes&lt;/a&gt; are interesting and rather small. It does appear these are discontinued now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mixiebike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mixie&lt;/a&gt; bikes and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.somafab.com/somaminivelo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Salsa Mini-Velo&lt;/a&gt; are other small bike alternatives.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T19:27:54.023" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T19:27:54.023" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13855" CreationDate="2013-01-04T14:16:09.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicymple.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicymple&lt;/a&gt;, but it costs quite a bit more than it should, possibly because of the non-standard design. It's on Kickstarter right now, and the smallest &quot;pledge&quot; that will get you a bike is $800. It achieves a smaller size, while still having standard size wheels.  The pedals are direct drive on the rear hub which limits your top speed, but they plan to put gears in there somehow at a later date.  It's already met its funding goal, so it may be something to watch for in the future to see if they can bring the cost down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wcyf6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T14:16:09.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13849" CreationDate="2013-01-04T18:13:48.133" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;100 RPM minus your age.  (Only half kidding.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;80-90 RPM is a good target for younger, fairly serious bikers.  When I was in my 20s-30s I could do that for several hours.  As I get older (I'm 63) I find it harder -- 70 RPM is probably closer to my &quot;optimal&quot; speed now, and I drift down toward 60 if I don't keep at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One rule I tell folks that I think is good for almost all environments, whether flat-out or casual, uphill or down, is to never pedal slower than you're breathing.  Keep your cadence at 1-2x your respiration rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding along lazily with a resp rate of 30 you can get away with a cadence of 45, but if you're resp rate is 60 your cadence should be at least 60, maybe 80-90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if your cadence is 90 and your respiration rate only 40 then you should be using a more difficult gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T18:13:48.133" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-04T18:53:59.547" Score="1" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using a trainer during the winter months and went out on my bike the other day and half way round I got a flat!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spoke to the bloke in a shop who said that using the bike on the trainer will wear the tyre out quicker. He mentioned getting an other tyre but said about the hassel of keep swapping them over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have got an old Raliegh sprint with the old wheel size, I think it's 27 and 3/4 inch (not sure on that one!!) This however is too big for the trainer so my question is, Is it possible to get a new wheel which will be smaller than the one on the sprint to fit the bike and also the trainer. This will only be used on the trainer so it won't matter about the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this makes sense!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5825" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-01-04T22:54:01.397" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T22:54:01.397" Title="Is it possible to put a 700c wheel on to an old Raliegh road bike?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13859" CreationDate="2013-01-04T20:18:55.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure.  So long as the hub is roughly the same width, and the chain is compatible with the sprockets, you should be able to put the slightly smaller 700c wheel on that bike.  As you note, the brakes will likely not reach, but that's not a problem on a trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One potential problem is the rear derailer, but this wouldn't be as much trouble as going the other way, since your old derailer is likely not indexed.  The main problem is likely to be that the wider chain doesn't fit the sprockets well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T20:18:55.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13855" CreationDate="2013-01-04T22:22:20.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marcus, going by your comment is it fair to say that cost is the issue rather than &quot;foldability&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also since you mention amazon.co.uk I'm going to assume you're in the UK. In that case, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decathlon.co.uk/C-376961-city-and-commuting-bikes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Decathlon&lt;/a&gt;. These bikes are far cheaper than, say, a Brompton. I have bought lots from  Decathlon over the years and consider them superb value for money. But I don't consider then to be the best out there in terms of quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a store nearby I'd suggest a visit - lots of people test ride their bikes, normally up and down the aisles!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T22:22:20.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13837" CreationDate="2013-01-05T01:45:43.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first time I did my century, I ride 200 km / week, leading up to the ride. After that I realised I didn't really need to ride that much, though it helped mentally. These days, if I wanted to ride, say 150 km, I just need to ride at least that long every week. Anything more than that will help finishing the ride faster.&#xA;So, if you commuted 60 miles a week, I'd just throw in 40 miles on the weekends and maybe do one long ride to learn about refuelling if you never done it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T01:45:43.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13818" CreationDate="2013-01-05T02:37:01.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Were you aware that the shell width on Italian BBs is 70mm, whereas on English threaded BBs it is 68mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;References:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bottombrackets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown BB Crib Sheet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown on BB Sizes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T02:37:01.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8437" CreationDate="2013-01-05T02:47:29.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure of your location, but check for &quot;Udder Cream&quot;. Designed for chapped cows or goats teats. Great as a chamois cream. Easily available in Australia and NZ. Probably most countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5828" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T02:47:29.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13837" CreationDate="2013-01-05T03:18:08.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need saddle time for a century ride, because the only way to train your backside to be in the saddle for four to seven hours is to be in the saddle for longish rides, like three to four hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rule of thumb for centuries is that you ought to be able to go 70-80% of the distance about two weeks prior to the century. I would add to that: over similar terrain. So in other words, if your century route includes 4000 feet of climbing, try to find a 70-80 mile training ride that also includes about the same amount of climbing. Try to ride that at the pace you plan do the century at, and let those training rides inform your pace for the century. In other words, if you're thinking you can do the century at 15 mph average, attempt that with your training rides, and see if it is realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to regard your commuting miles as useless, however. If possible, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sub5century.org/news/tips-for-tackling-a-sub-5-century-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;do some intervals while you're commuting&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I might add: long rides require proper intake of nutrition. Personally, I find that I drink a fair amount on long rides. For example, I did a 60-mile ride this morning, and drank about 2.5 liters of water. To keep my electrolytes good, I always add some &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.nuun.com/nuun-active-hydration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nuun tabs&lt;/a&gt; to my water when I fill (and refill) my bottles. These tabs acidify the water slightly, which makes it far more refreshing, and they also add electrolytes without adding sugar. You can get some pretty bad cramps on longish rides when you neglect hydration, and that is another purpose of the 70-80 mile training rides: finding out how much you need to drink. You also need to make sure to keep munching on stuff during the ride, like Power Bars or some equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T03:18:08.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13868" CreationDate="2013-01-05T17:46:57.473" Score="8" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to ride back and forth from work for 16 mi. every day. I recently bought a car for snow rain and such, but it has killed my drive to get out and bike. I was wondering how other people integrate biking into their life when they also have a car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T23:27:48.957" Title="What are some ways to keep biking when you have a car?" Tags="&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13867" CreationDate="2013-01-05T19:16:54.507" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess you have two main tasks, and they involve preparing your &amp;quot;internal&amp;quot; (psychic, mostly) environment, and you external (domestic, mostly) environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About internal environment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to convince yourself, or keep convinced, that you actually LIKE TO, WANT TO and SHOULD ride your bike;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should think AND feel AND know that riding a lot is wiser than driving a lot. There are innumerable hard facts to support this point of view;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to look suspiciously to your car all the time. It is a temptation, and should be a last resort since it is all the time tempting you to succumb so that it can do its harm (this is somewhat metaphorical, but somewhat literal, too).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resist any eventual harassment from family, friends and neigbours in favor of the so-called car culture. Watch &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.streetfilms.org/moving-beyond-the-automobile/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these videos&lt;/a&gt;, they are awesome, and can help YOU to &amp;quot;harass&amp;quot; car-cultists!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About external environment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Biking should be simple, not complicated. Leave your bike close to the exit, and your car keys far away from it. Keep your bike-related belongings close to the bike, and the bike always ready to be ridden.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't depend on special preparations for riding. Use fenders, &amp;quot;sofa&amp;quot; saddle and platform pedals if necessary, so that you can use regular clothes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have more than one bike if this will make you ride more, even if one of the bikes is just for errands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep fit. The more you ride, the easier it is to take one more ride. The less you ride, the harder it is to be back in the saddle again after a &amp;quot;long&amp;quot; time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When making long term decisions about your house, your work, and your new purchases, your habits, your schedules, etc., avoid the ones that will put you closer to your car and/or further from your bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess all this is essentially personal and subjective, but I think this is the general way to handle this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T23:20:22.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13867" CreationDate="2013-01-05T19:38:36.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For years I carried my bike (an old 5-speed Raleigh) around on a carrier on the back of the car, 24/7.  Would go out to ride at lunch, or whenever I had the chance.  Very handy when I was traveling/touring -- I could park the car somewhere and explore a town easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T19:38:36.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13830" CreationDate="2013-01-05T19:48:34.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;In some spots, the tire doesn't fully clear the brake&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take this to mean that the wheel isn't straight, and the tire rubs at certain points in its rotation. If you spend some time truing the wheel, you might be able to get it straight enough that it doesn't rub. The advantage of this approach: you don't have to buy anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option: keep an eye out for cheap cyclocross forks with cantilever mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T19:48:34.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13882" CreationDate="2013-01-05T21:18:52.467" Score="4" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes at a crossing, when one wants to turn right for example, the &quot;new&quot; street has a different surface and there is a small step (2-4 cm) to get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These kind of steps are already unconfortable to apprehend when getting the from the front but when one's turning right, even getting a 45 degrees angle is not always easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should one proceed?&#xA;How big a step can a wheel handle? should I stand up? hop somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when one is facing the obstacle, how to proceed? angle is not a problem, but should one ride slowly towards it? or as fast as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the safest way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T01:26:56.760" Title="&quot;Climbing&quot; small steps in 23mm tires" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13875" CreationDate="2013-01-05T22:41:13.737" Score="3" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fork with a 1&quot; steerer tube, and a frame with a 1.5&quot; head tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steerer tube is slightly short, and when inserted into the frame, is flush with the top of the head tube. The fork is threaded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question: Is it possible to extend and adapt this fork to threadless, and what kind of headset (reducing, normal?) would I need? (the frame I bought said the headset size was 1 1/8 traditional press-in)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Or is all this just stupid, and I should just buy a new fork with a 1 1/8 steerer?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5832" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T20:34:14.117" Title="Trying to build a bike, confused about fork/headsets/compatability" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13818" CreationDate="2013-01-05T22:58:15.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why would the spindle lengths be different at all? Why wouldn't the Italian BB spindle have the bearing shoulders further apart by 2 mm while keeping the 113 mm length?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No idea about this. The great thing about bicycle standards, is there's so many to choose from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess it's to keep the same amount of spindle sticking out of the bottom bracket shell on both widths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would the chainline not increase by 1 mm in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so, how should this be accounted for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's two of ways to deal with this, I can think of off the top of my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could ignore the 1mm difference, on a derailler system a 1mm chainline difference isn't that huge. You're lowest gears might be a bit more crooked, but on an 8 or 9 speed system, I think you'd get away with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, why not get a 70x113 bottom bracket, a quick google turned up a number of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T22:58:15.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13885" CreationDate="2013-01-05T23:09:13.413" Score="13" ViewCount="15972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several bikes and use them more and more in bad weather. I have no problem with rust on the chain, but I am seeing little bits of rust in the various hex bolt heads on the bike. What can I use to remove this rust and how can I prevent it from happening again. Note I ride things like Ragbrai, so keeping out of the rain, or drying the bike right away is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2021-03-27T23:52:17.787" Title="Preventing rust in bolt heads" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;rust&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13872" CreationDate="2013-01-05T23:24:08.110" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get a fork with a steerer that fits the frame. The expense and risk of modifying your existing fork won't be worth it. There were some mountain bike forks with replacement steerer tubes but they didn't allow for changes of size or type of steerer. They were 1 1/8&quot; threadless and so was the replacement. You also want to match the fork rake/angle that the frame maker designed into the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T23:24:08.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13881" CreationDate="2013-01-05T23:42:40.213" Score="4" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/307/touring-load-weight-distribution&quot;&gt;Touring load weight distribution&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reading advice for carrying cargo on a bicycle, whether for touring or otherwise, I see recommendations (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/features/packing.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) that load should be either evenly distributed between the front and rear wheels, or slightly greater, 60/40, on the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this? My intuition says that more load should be on the rear wheel, but my touring experience is limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points for answers with actual physics in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5833" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T01:35:35.677" Title="Why should the front wheel be more heavily loaded when touring?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-01-06T08:11:11.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13874" CreationDate="2013-01-05T23:46:35.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have to do some searching to find the right sizes but you could go with stainless steel hardware. Buying them in small quantities can be expensive. I have had issues with some hardware that is countersunk. Conventional allenheads won't fit in the hole. Maybe that is why they call the brand &quot;Specialized&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-01-05T23:46:35.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13874" CreationDate="2013-01-06T00:14:35.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Little bits of rust shouldn't hurt anything, but if you're getting lots of rust or it just drives you crazy you might consider spraying them down with a wax based lubricant or dry lube. Finish Line's Teflon dry lube might be a good option because it has a tendency to build up on chains, which means it goes on thick and may act as a barrier to oxidation. Boeshield's T9 may be another option though it goes on thinner than Finish Line's product. Of course these products aren't truly &quot;dry&quot; and you're going to be trading rust for dirt. If you wanted to get really crazy you could pack the heads with paraffin wax, but that seems over the top to me which brings me back to my first point that you probably shouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T00:14:35.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13867" CreationDate="2013-01-06T00:46:31.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Above all this is a matter of mindset and discipline. I've found myself in the same position since starting a job much further away from my home than my previous job, so I know how you feel. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;You've got to want to ride and get into the mindset that you have no other option but to ride to get to work. This is easier said than done and if you're like me, it's extremely hard to convince yourself of in the morning. My suggestion to you, which I've had decent success with myself, is to throw your bike on/in your car on the way to work on Monday. Ride home that afternoon (because the ride home is the best part of your day, right?). The next morning, you don't really have a choice but to ride in. You can either throw the bike back on your car Tuesday afternoon or ride your bike home again. Just make sure you're riding at least one way each day and you'll get in at least 4 half commutes a week.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That might be enough to wean you back off of the car and back onto the bike full time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T00:46:31.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4214" CreationDate="2013-01-06T01:22:32.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Single pivot road brake calipers, with matching traditional road bike drop bar levers (&quot;aero&quot; levers) will require more hand grip force to stop, compared to common v-brakes and compatible levers. A lot of road bikes have the standard, older stuff, because it's &quot;good enough&quot; and cheap to produce or aquire and assemble. V-brakes also turn off some road bike buyers who don't like &quot;mountain bikes&quot; or &quot;touring bikes&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dual pivot road brakes are much more powerful, and can work with your standard aero levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a v-brake compatible frame, you can use old style levers with the v brakes by using &quot;travel agents&quot; or similar pulley accessories for touring bikes (travel adapters). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy v-brake compatible road bike aero levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5834" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T01:22:32.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13876" CreationDate="2013-01-06T01:26:55.323" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you sit on your bike, you put more weight on the rear wheel than the front (it's easy to use bathroom scales to see exactly how much). By distributing your cargo 60/40 to the front, you get a more even distribution of overall weight on the tires. This is good for several reasons. The tires (assuming same size) have the same load bearing ability, so having them evenly balanced is better - particularly on a heavily laden tourer. Also if you put to much weight to far back, there is no weight to hold the front down. This negatively affects cornering, inducing uncontrollable under steer, and also affects hill climbing. A tourer usually has an insanely low granny gear, which means it's possible to grind up very steep hills, provided the torque does not lift the front wheel. Pulling wheelies on a fully loaded tourer is something best avoided by all but the most skilled riders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are only guidelines. Every rider and bike is different, so you should do what suits you. Don't be scared to experiment - even once you find a way to load that you like. If you don't try something different, you may never find that &quot;better&quot; way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forgive me, I will go for the bonus points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Max Torque induced by Pedal &#xA;   Force on Chain = &#xA;      (Rider Weight * Crank Length) / Small Chainring Diameter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque on back wheel = &#xA;       (Force on Chain * Diameter of Largest Cassette gear ) / Wheel Diameter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque to rotate bike  = &#xA;       Wheel base * Weight on Front wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crash ===    Torque to rotate bike &gt; Torque on back wheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-01-06T01:35:35.677" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T01:35:35.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13871" CreationDate="2013-01-06T01:26:56.760" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, to reinforce what Daniel pointed out, do NOT approach such an obstacle at an angle unless you want to eat pavement. Hit step ups, step downs, and especially railroad tracks as perpendicularly as possible. If it's a right turn you're taking, assuming you're in a country that drives on the right side of the street, signal, take the lane, and take a wide turn so you're hitting the lip at a 90 degree angle or close to it. Left turn you should offer you a little more room. That's the first half of hitting such an obstacle safely without dismounting from the bike.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Part two: if you want to get over the step &quot;as safely as possible&quot; then you want to hit it as slow as possible. That's great if you're not in traffic, but even if you aren't it sucks to lose your momentum. What you need to practice is something akin to a bunny hop, however having both wheels leave the ground simultaneously for small bumps typically isn't necessary. Practice pulling up your front wheel and immediately after gravity takes back over pulling up your back wheel with your feet and legs. Practice this in your driveway or on a quiet street over small obstacles. As you become comfortable with this maneuver you can practice on bigger obstacles and at higher speeds. If and when you feel comfortable to do so you can hop both wheels at the same time at high speed- whatever you feel comfortable with.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How big an obstacle you can handle totally depends on how comfortable you are with doing this and how high you can pull the wheels off the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T01:26:56.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13874" CreationDate="2013-01-06T01:49:29.213" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;After cleaning I give the bolts a small squirt of WD40 followed by a good rub down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves a very fine film of oil that won't hold dirt but is just enough to stave off the rust if done regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spray also displaces (WD, water displacement, geddit?) any water left from cleaning in any little gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T01:49:29.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13818" CreationDate="2013-01-06T02:08:28.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html#shimano&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; makes a point about different spindle lengths being to do with seat tube diameter, when listing Shimano BB sizes.&#xA;He says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shimano sometimes specs two different lengths for the same crankset.&#xA;  This usually relates to the diameter of the seat tube. The shorter&#xA;  dimension is normally preferred, but bikes with fat seat tubes may&#xA;  require the longer size to accommodate the swing of the front&#xA;  derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the wider BB Shell, Shimano may be allowing for the possibility of the a wider seat tube and therefore recommend a slightly longer spindle to allow for front derailleur clearance on a wider seat tube.&#xA;The 1mm difference in chainline due to a 2mm difference in spindle length is almost negligible for most riding, particularly for bikes with a derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2019-01-22T04:51:47.073" LastActivityDate="2019-01-22T04:51:47.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13874" CreationDate="2013-01-06T03:06:25.553" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where possible, replace with stainless fasteners. Things like water bottle bracket bolts are readily available in stainless at a good hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most fasteners on a good quality bike are stainless to begin with, so it may be that you're not seeing &quot;rust&quot; per se but rather a sort of corrosion that can form on stainless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T03:06:25.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13818" CreationDate="2013-01-06T09:04:52.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have mentioned, the point of having a variety of spindle lengths is to allow selection of a BB which creates the proper chain line, while ensuring proper clearance from your frame. (Typically 51 mm from BB center to the center of the chain ring set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The assumption that using the Italian BB mandates a wider BB spindle is not correct.  You should have no issue using a 70 mm x 113 mm Italian BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you are unlikely to notice any difference in shifting performance from a 1 mm difference in chain line, unless your original BB was already significantly offset (incorrect).  It's just not enough difference to matter.  So if you already have the 70 x 115, use it.  You'll be fine.  If you still need to buy the BB, order a 70 x 113.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To directly answer what I think is your main question, There is no reason for the spindle length to change, except the convenience of using parts which are already on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T09:04:52.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13872" CreationDate="2013-01-06T09:09:06.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, buy a new fork that fits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer, you are not able to safely extend the length of the fork, and trying will result in injury.  There are headsets available to deal with the size difference on the steerer tube, but if the steerer is that short, you won't be able to mount a stem and handlebar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, if it is a threaded 1&quot; fork, the threaded portion of the steerer would not be strong enough to support a threadless stem design.  The clamping force from the stem will crack the steerer through one of the cut threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, buy a new fork that fits.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T09:09:06.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-06T10:47:41.303" Score="3" ViewCount="3982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I discovered a Shimano FC-2300 Crankset (175-mm 52/42/30T 8 Speed) for $62 on Amazon - is this compatible to replace my old FC 3301/3304?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer story is I need to replace my Shimano chain (CS-HG50) / middle chainring from an SG 52-42-30 set (and I expect rear cassette too?) after 5 yrs of a modest commute on my 8 speed flat bar bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can anyone recommend an online seller of suitable replacement parts compatible with the Sora FC 3301/3304?  My local shop in Perth Australia proposes to sell me a new bike, but I'd rather repair to safe and functional level - I won't be winning any races on this unit:)&#xA;I'm new at the repair work and tho' I've got a chain tool, it appears I'll also need to get special tools (crank extractor?) to get at the chainrings?  Do I also need special tools for to replace the rear cartridge?&#xA;Thanks in advance,&#xA;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5836" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T23:39:14.863" Title="Shimano chainring / crankset compatibility" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13867" CreationDate="2013-01-06T13:31:18.907" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's important to keep a positive attitude for your bike, I'd say it's equally important to keep a negative attitude for your car. I have a car and I hate it really bad. I hate it for polluting my, already fairly polluted city. Hate it for being 15x heavier than I am, so it is essentially a contraption whose main goal is to carry itself first, and then me. Hate it for depleting oil reserves. Hate it for having to park it and take up some space in the area where I work, a space which could otherwise be used for a park, or children playground, or a hotdog stand. Hate it as it is also a lethal weapon, and I hate weapons. Hate it because it makes lot of noise. Hate it for trying to make me fat, lazy and spoiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T13:31:18.907" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13867" CreationDate="2013-01-06T13:44:58.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sign up for a race or century in the upcoming summer. I find having a goal or something to work for motivating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I check the weather forecasts all the time, a bike ride on a sunny (usually still cold) day in the midst of the Pacific Northwest winter are awesome rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, I will drive with my bike to work to get in a lunch ride, or even leave my car at work, bike home, then in the next morning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend a second (or third) bike. Having a mountain bike can open new trails and part of the fun is if it is muddy or snowy. I keep my old bikes when I upgrade and take my old bike and turn it into a rain bike. With proper gear and nice fenders riding in the rain and cold is not that bad. Snow and ice much less so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T13:44:58.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13888" CreationDate="2013-01-06T23:30:34.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes you could replace your crank set with the FC-2303 but you would have to change your bottom bracket also. Look up the Shimano tech docs for these cranksets, all the information you need is there as well as the steps you take to change the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triple ring crankset is the FC-3304 with a 45mm chain line using a 118mm octalink bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FC-2303 is the triple ring crankset which also has a 45mm chain line but uses a 113mm square taper bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So alongside the &lt;strong&gt;crank extractor&lt;/strong&gt; you will need a &lt;strong&gt;bottom bracket tool&lt;/strong&gt;. I got a crank extractor and a BB tool for about $10 NZD each. To change a rear cassette you will need a &lt;strong&gt;lock ring nut&lt;/strong&gt; which will fit your rear cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I shop at &lt;a href=&quot;http://chainreactioncycles.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chain Reaction Cycles&lt;/a&gt; which ships from the UK and is cheap and reliable with fast shipping. They sell components and tools at good rates with ok shipping rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-01-06T23:39:14.863" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T23:39:14.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13867" CreationDate="2013-01-06T23:38:33.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four things: fitness, endorphins, money. Also something a bit more intangible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep a check on your weight. If you find it going up because you're cycling less, then there's a good reason to ride more. Who knows? Maybe weight control was the reason you got a bike in  the first place? That was certainly the case for me and the knowledge that I am now slim and fit means that I'll keep cycling for good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two, how good do you feel when you get off the bike after 16 miles? Remember that feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three, I know you guys get cheaper gas than us Europeans, but surely when you fill up your car it must hurt your wallet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all motivators for me. I need to get 8 miles from home to the train station each morning, and mix it between car and bike. Started cycling it a few years ago when I did the odd journey through the summer. Became 2-3 days a week, my fitness being the limiting factor. Last couple of years (in the summer) have averaged about 4 days a week. Always used to restrict myself to daylight months (for me this was about April thru August). But this last year I have started night-cycling, even though I've probably only averaged a couple of days a week thru the winter. But I don't beat myself up if I don't fancy the ride, and many times I don't fancy it in heavy rain (largely the &quot;sitting on a train for 90 minutes in soaking clothes&quot; aspect), but mostly I do it because I love it and would prefer to be on the bike than in the car. There's the intangible bit. If you like it more than the car, you'll be motivated to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T23:38:33.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13897" CreationDate="2013-01-07T00:21:26.583" Score="4" ViewCount="1608" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of interest I would like to understand the benefits of having a 15mm or 20mm through axle over a 9mm QR (and a 10mm vs. a 12mm TA on the rear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What difference does it make to the ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T02:09:21.467" Title="Mountain bike axle diameters" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-07T00:32:44.407" Score="0" ViewCount="2952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a fixed Gear cyclist and I'm trying to set up a big ride with a group of friends from Los Angeles to San Fransisco. I am aware this is not an easy ride but we are willing to go, but I'm not sure Google Maps is giving a very good route for cyclists. Is there any place where I can find a route suitable for cyclists to get to San Fransisco.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5839" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T19:21:58.630" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T08:24:04.060" Title="What are some Routes to riding from Los Angeles to San fransisco?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13895" CreationDate="2013-01-07T01:39:29.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Friends who have ridden the coast from Vancouver, Canada to the Mexican border used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adventure Cycling Association maps&lt;/a&gt; for the route. ACA has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes/pacificcoast.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;series of maps&lt;/a&gt; that cover the route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ACA description of the terrain for LA to SF matches what I heard from my friends: lots of climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;TERRAIN&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This route segment is generally hilly, with lots of ups and&#xA;  downs following the coastline in the northern part of the state. Some&#xA;  sections in the southern part of the route are rolling to flat,&#xA;  especially along the various cities' bike paths along the beaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I heard about the ride, it was tough enough with (multi-geared) road bikes. I suppose, theoretically, it could be done on a fixie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look around the Web, there are many sources of bicycle route maps. &lt;a href=&quot;http://calbike.org/bicycling-in-california/maps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;California Bicycle Coalition&lt;/a&gt; is one such example. I have the SLO County map which they link to, and it's an excellent map. Don't miss Turri Road when you go through there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also many threads over at BF regarding this trip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/416040-San-Francisco-to-Los-Angeles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;San Francisco To Los Angeles&lt;/a&gt; thread;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/608188-Advice-for-Los-Angeles-to-San-Francisco&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Advice for Los Angeles to San Francisco&lt;/a&gt; thread;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/342072-Considering-riding-from-Los-Angeles-to-San-Francisco-Advice-routes-etc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Considering Riding From Los Angeles To San Francisco&lt;/a&gt; thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to provide a few. Lots of experienced answers in those BF threads...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T01:39:29.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13894" CreationDate="2013-01-07T02:09:21.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The claims are that the through axles offer a stiffer fork, giving more precise handling and performance, over a 9mm QR. 15mm through axles evolved as a lighter alternate to the 20mm ones - which are heavy and overkill for XC and most all mountain riding, with a similar weight to 9mm QR but the stiffer performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the highest end (both bike and rider) I am certain the performance improvements are real and measurable. As you drop down in cost/ rider ability, somewhere there is a crossover point where it makes no difference - the forks performance (or lack of) smothers any real difference. The cynic in me believes that for all but the most elite on the most expensive bikes, the placebo effect of spending $1000's on new kit is more of a driver for the better performance than any real, scientifically measurable difference. Many reports I have read are similar to  &quot;My shiny new $5K toy with 20mm axles is much stiffer and more predictable than my 10 year old $1K bike with 9mm QR. Those 20mm axles are the best!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One definite advantage of through axles is that there is a documented and real issue with QR on front forks and disc brakes, where the front wheel is ejected under heavy baking due to the torque generated by the disc. This has been half solved with &quot;Lawyer lugs&quot; - the wheel stays on now, but can come loose. This is only a real issue for those with large disk rotors and those that fail to do the QR up properly. The average XC rider on 160mm discs will never see the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible disadvantage of through axles are the removal and re-installation of wheels is harder, often needing tools (you can get QR through axles), making less suitable for field puncture repairs etc. You may need a new bike rack (if you use a fork mount style). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T02:09:21.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13691" CreationDate="2013-01-07T06:28:30.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is possible for a hub flange to fail due to radial lacing, if the wheel is built properly, to proper tension, it doesn't happen, generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it happens is because the amount of material between the spoke head and the edge of the flange is least when the spoke is pulling directly to the edge.  Under normal usage, the flange has more than enough strength, even when laced radially.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the wheel is laced with too much tension, or if the wheel is placed under abnormal stress, like when used for braking on a fixed gear, then the hub flange is more likely to fail when radially laced, than when laced with a proper crossing pattern.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can still fail, even when crossed, but it is far more likely when laced radially, due to the smaller amount of material, and more direct tension on the flange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used radially laced wheels, mainly for BMX racing as a kid,  I have had only one failure of a hub flange, though, and that was on a Bontrager Race XXX Lite rear wheel in 2003. That wheel uses a radially laced, paired spoke pattern, which I do believe contributed to the failure.  They are also excessively high tension wheels, due to the low spoke count, and I think it took both the radial pattern, and the excessively high tension to cause the flange to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T06:28:30.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-07T16:33:37.927" Score="4" ViewCount="23012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano freewheel (MX-30) that came with my bike from new.  Unfortunately the internals got all gunked up and it stopped working (never engaged and became free both ways).  I have bought and fitted a replacement part, but I would like to know how I should lubricate / maintain the freewheel so that this does not happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5841" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T21:36:31.357" Title="How should I lubricate my Shimano freewheel?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13902" CreationDate="2013-01-07T17:52:08.783" Score="0" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example this (rather expensive) item: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/sram-srm-powermeter-pro-wireless-bb30-double-chainset/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/sram-srm-powermeter-pro-wireless-bb30-double-chainset/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is actually wireless about it? Is this for a cadence meter? Wireless shifting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T17:59:27.043" Title="What is a wireless crankset?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13901" CreationDate="2013-01-07T17:59:27.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crankset is not wireless, the power meter inside the crankset is wireless, the power meter inside measures your power output and wirelessly transmits the data to a head unit for display near or on your handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T17:59:27.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-07T18:22:39.323" Score="5" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of stripping a SWB Claud Butler tandem so I can get it repainted. There are a couple of things I need help with.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Can you fit a front mech to the bike, and if so, are there any &quot;gotchas&quot; to avoid, or limits as to chainring size ? I've currently got a 9-speed cassette with long cage mech on the back, and we'd like the bike to be 18-speed if possible....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) What size is the eccentric cam for front chainset ? Current one is looking like it's seen some (ab)use over the years, so may need replacing. Is there a standard size for these ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I'm trying to get it nice and tidy for racing... well it IS what it was designed for... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=:~)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5842" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T03:45:11.310" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T03:49:05.817" Title="Claud Butler Tandem - add a front derailleur?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13895" CreationDate="2013-01-07T19:31:51.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this option on mapmyride, goes along the coast, low altitude change with a few burly climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/view/69166928&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/view/69166928&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T19:31:51.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13900" CreationDate="2013-01-07T21:27:09.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) for freewheel (not free hub) lube. What I do is lift the bike-- if someone can help you with this, it's a bit easier-- so that you can rotate the pedals (and make the back wheel spin). Ideally, the bike should be tilted to the non-drive side about 45-60 degrees. With the back wheel rotating, you can see where to lubricate. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;As Sheldon puts it&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Look inside the smallest sprocket. The sprocket will be stationary,&#xA;  since the wheel is coasting, but you'll see an inner part of the&#xA;  freewheel that is spinning with the wheel. Drip oil onto the crack&#xA;  between the turning part and the stationary part. Gravity and&#xA;  capillary action will help work oil into the freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, thought I should add what I keep my ATF in for cycling purposes. I have some old plastic bottles that once held printer ink. They look similar to this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WuolM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T02:23:24.583" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T02:23:24.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13770" CreationDate="2013-01-07T21:37:55.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freecoaster: Advantage is coasting backwards. Disadvantage is higher weight and price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cassette/freewheel: Advantage is lower weight and price. Disadvantage is no coasting backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T21:37:55.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-07T22:01:59.280" Score="5" ViewCount="10073" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new 26&quot; MTB inner tube is much bigger than my 26&quot; wheel (and old 26&quot; MTB inner tube). I don't understand why. How to shopcorrectly for new tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is 1990s Raleigh mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: the new tube is very loose both deflated and inflated. The new tube specs are 26 x 1.5 / 1.75 / 2.125 F/V according to the box and tyre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old tube was 26 x 1.50 / 2.25 according to its box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECRqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5586" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T02:29:26.770" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T02:29:26.770" Title="New 26&quot; inner tube different size to old 26&quot; inner tube" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13907" CreationDate="2013-01-07T22:27:44.470" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the label on the tube - does it say '26 x 1 3/8' by any chance? If so, this is actually a completely different size than the standard MTB 26&quot;. Get a tube that says something like 26x2.1 or 26x1.9 - the point is, the tire width should be expressed as a decimal, not a fraction. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's tire size chart.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, I know, it's stupid - I didn't come up with this system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T22:27:44.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5755" CreationDate="2013-01-08T01:01:26.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beginning my search for a 540 rim for a Terry, and commenting: &#xA;I went to the trouble of getting a Velocity 520 Aerohead rim built to a Shimano XT hub. It came from a trike and 'bent specialist,so it has the small compromise of assymetry, the hub including the integral mounting plate for a disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This early Terry, a Symmetry, in the largest frame size with a &quot;24&quot; front wheel, fits me, @5'6&quot; and short arms, better than my usual 622 ride. What I don't like, though, is the unavailability of wider and more comfortable 25-32mm tires for the front. The Panaracer tires are standard 23mm nominal and maybe narrower in reality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Terry fork allows plenty of space for a fender in front,and the likely-Tektro front brake pads are at their lower limits, so there is room for a 540 - based wheel if the rim is 13-19mm between beads. Without that larger wheel, a larger and more comfortable rear tire, a 25-28mm, will make the handling more squirrely than it already is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5845" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T01:01:26.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2013-01-08T06:40:34.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a project to add electronic Arduino turn signals, brake lights, speedometer, and odometer to my bike. You can check out my project here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://jdeboi.com/pimpmybike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://jdeboi.com/pimpmybike/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5846" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T06:40:34.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="910" CreationDate="2013-01-08T08:21:05.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some earmuffs with integrated headphones, for instance the KitSound Audio Earmuffs or Vibe Sound Earmuff Headphones, that finally solved the problem for me since they have a soft cover on the outside that dampens the wind noise. There is, however, some trouble fitting these under the helmet straps and they probably won't be much fun in the summer. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastEditorUserId="681" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T08:31:03.763" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T08:31:03.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13926" CreationDate="2013-01-08T11:54:52.897" Score="4" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed the new Tiagra brakes (4600) to my Claud Butler bike following the accompanying instructions. I've also installed new Tiagra levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not enough adjustment in the brakes to allow the pads to sit on the wheel rim. On the front, the pads are half on the rim and the other on the tyre. The rear brakes don't extend to the rim at all. Are the brakes just not compatible with by bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The existing components were a mix of Sora and other bits (RPM crankset).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5775" LastEditorUserId="5775" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T12:27:39.873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T12:27:39.873" Title="CB Roubaix upgrade to Shimano Tiagra - brake problems" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13917" CreationDate="2013-01-08T12:42:20.987" Score="5" ViewCount="2003" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a general question, regarding the routing of the cables of both brakes and derailleurs on a frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it highly practical to mount all cables along the &lt;strong&gt;bottom of the top tube&lt;/strong&gt;. This offers the following advantages:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wide down tube protects the cabling from mud and gravy, originating at the front tire  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The top tube can support weight e.g. sitting* there or supporting luggage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the reasons of the other cabling schemes? I am most puzzled the combined scheme &quot;2 cables on bottom of the bottom tube + 1 cable on top of the top tube&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* one of my pleasant habits is, when there are no free seats in the park and the grass is wet, sitting on the front tube, with the bike tilted, one hand on the brake and the other holding a beer&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T16:56:31.987" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T03:34:18.967" Title="Cable routing and why is there no optimum solution" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13923" CreationDate="2013-01-08T12:59:02.493" Score="11" ViewCount="18123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to try the drop handlebar on my touring bicycle that has V-Brakes, and Shimano 9x3 speeds. Are there drop handlebar levers (integrated shifters would be great), that have correct pull ratio for V-brakes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are brake levers but no shifters, where would be a good place to put my existing (deore shifters) on the drop handlebar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T00:42:07.480" Title="V-Brake levers for drop handlebars?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13915" CreationDate="2013-01-08T13:25:16.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, designers will seek to achieve the shortest possible cable routes while minimizing the number and severity of turns.  And off-road bikes will be designed with consideration of problems due to running through underbrush, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming a standard diamond frame: Under the top tube is generally a good place for the rear brake and derailer cables (except, of course, for bikes with downtube shifters).  It's usually best to run the front derailer cable along the down tube, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where/how are your cables routed that it's bugging you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T13:25:16.047" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2013-01-08T13:39:18.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cycled 8000km (5000 miles) a few months ago on Marathon Plus Tour 700x35c. I didn't get any punctures on a fully loaded touring bike (45kg + 70kg rider). Sure there is extra weight in the tyres but the time/money/effort I saved by not having to worry about fixing a flat, and carrying a smaller pump and no spare inner tubes, they are worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5848" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T13:39:18.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2013-01-08T14:57:34.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Visijax make a high-visibility cycling jacket that also includes battery-powered indicators.  It may be the way to go, at least in winter, if you don't mind looking like a bit of a prat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://visijax.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://visijax.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T14:57:34.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2013-01-08T15:03:40.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For skinnier commuting tires, I prefer panaracer ribmo or panaracer t-serv. Ribmo tires tend to be heavier, but have a lot of rubber, so they are good for fixed gear riders who skid frequently, very flat resistant. T-serve tires are a very good balance between weight and protection. It's very rare for me to get puncture flats when using either of these tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T15:03:40.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13915" CreationDate="2013-01-08T15:46:21.377" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the reasons of the other cabling schemes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most Cyclocross bikes will route all the rear cables along the top of the top tube. In a cyclocross race, you will get off and shoulder your bike, the cables would get in the way on the underside of the top tube. Many CX bikes have a flat bottom top tube as well for easier shouldering. Routing the cables along the top keep them cleaner too, cyclocross races get muddy and if they put the cables on the bottom of the downtube, they would get very wet, muddy and allow grime into the housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T15:46:21.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13916" CreationDate="2013-01-08T16:56:04.577" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you want to use your current V-Brakes, but if getting new brakes, TRP makes mini V-Brakes that are STI lever compatible, sometimes called a brifter (brakes and shifting in one lever). Most V-Brakes have a different pull ratio which is not compatible with brifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004C966DK&quot;&gt;TRP CX9&lt;/a&gt; is for Shimano STI levers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009IJAPG8&quot;&gt;TRP CX8.4&lt;/a&gt; is for SRAM and Campagnolo levers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T16:56:04.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13914" CreationDate="2013-01-08T20:49:43.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a good chance that the pad adjustment slots are not long enough. There have been pages posted on other sites that detail making them fit, however the ones I have seen require some fabrication skills. As brakes are pretty important I would tend to stay away from crude add-ons just to make them fit. You may get increased brake performance by reinstalling your Sora calipers with some performance (as in more costly), brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T20:49:43.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13928" CreationDate="2013-01-08T21:12:33.597" Score="4" ViewCount="1907" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently My freehub broke and so I removed the cassette to replace the freehub and noticed, whilst off the bike, 4 of the remaining bolted together 8 sprockets wiggled (4 wiggled together but separately from the other 4). (10 speed shimano hg62-10). I also noticed some scratch marks on the freehub body (see pic) and wondered if this had anything to do with it. Does my cassette need replacing, or is this OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SulWB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;freehub body&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T00:26:00.387" Title="Should cassette &quot;wiggle&quot;" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13914" CreationDate="2013-01-08T22:47:13.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The measurement that is important here is the caliper reach. As always, there's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;great article on Sheldon Brown's website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reach is the effective length of the arms of a caliper brake. This is measured from the centerline of the center bolt diagonally down to the middle of the brake shoe. Reach is commonly expressed as a range (allowing for the fact that the brake shoes are adjustable, typically 10-15 mm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reach dimensions can run anywhere from 39-108 mm. There has been a historical trend toward shorter-reach brakes, as newer bicycles, particularly racing-style road bikes, are designed for use with narrow tires and without clearance for fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it sounds like you've purchased brake calipers with the incorrect reach for your bike. You'll either need to put your old brakes back on, or purchase some calipers with the appropriate reach range for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T22:47:13.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13874" CreationDate="2013-01-09T00:14:55.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like using marine grease in the hex &quot;slot&quot; itself. Just get a mini grease gun and some tubes of marine grease (both available from automotive shops), and then you can quickly apply little blobs of grease in each bolt head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll end up with some grease on the ends of your hex wrenches whenever you make adjustments, but this way you know that your bolt heads won't clog with dirt or ice (or rust, which as others have noted usually does not meet destructive levels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mini grease gun is also what you use for maintaining Speedplay pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3790" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T00:14:55.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13925" CreationDate="2013-01-09T00:26:00.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're saying that, off the body, the sprockets move slightly relative to each other, that's not a problem.  The sprockets are only just &quot;tacked&quot; together so that they remain in the right order and orientation while off the body.  The body provides the strength to hold them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, you notice that the sprockets slide up and down the body after installation, or if they seem to wobble as they turn, that suggests that they were installed incorrectly relative to the notches or that a spacer is missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T00:26:00.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13915" CreationDate="2013-01-09T03:34:18.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the reasons of the other cabling schemes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A combination of practicality and aesthetics. Which direction it leans depends on the frame and routing scheme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am most puzzled the combined scheme &quot;2 cables on bottom of the bottom tube + 1 cable on top of the top tube&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for practicality. The cable across the top of the top tube is for the rear brake and puts less of a bend in the housing that leads to the brake caliper- you reap the most benefit from this cable routing scheme with rim brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T03:34:18.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13916" CreationDate="2013-01-09T04:51:41.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tektro makes relatively inexpensive brake levers for drop handlebars. They have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=67&amp;amp;sortname=Lever&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RL-340&lt;/a&gt; model which works with caliper and cantilever brakes, and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=10&amp;amp;sortname=Lever&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RL-520&lt;/a&gt; model that works with V-brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this the hard way: I bought a Genesis single-speed cyclocross bike online, and it came equipped with mini V-brakes and the wrong levers. The biggest surprise was finding out that it wasn't an assembly error: it was like that in the specs. I ended up buying some RL-520s for $20 and replacing them myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not aware of any V-brake lever with an integrated shifter. I have never tried one, but the standard in many touring setups seems to be bar-end shifters, as the picture below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TcG1n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T04:51:41.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13936" CreationDate="2013-01-09T11:51:20.737" Score="6" ViewCount="4363" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I realise this question has been asked before, but as far as I can tell the last time was over a year ago, so I thought it might be worth asking again in the light maybe of newer products being on the market...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m having trouble finding a headlight. I only really started serious night-riding this winter, and pretty soon found that the headlight I already had (a Cateye running on 4xAA batteries and rated at 2200 candela) was fine for the city but not for dark country roads. So I started looking for a brighter headlamp and found that Cateye did a newer model, again running on 4xAA batteries but rated at approx. 4000 candela. I bought one and the light was not brilliant but certainly acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was just 2 months ago, and on my ride home last night the front of this light just fell out. Fortunately I was carrying a spare but when I got home was unable to fix the new light. Possibly there was another part that got left on the road… Anyway, this is going back for a refund, and I need to start looking for a different headlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My requirements are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brightness: at least as bright as the light I’m replacing, although I see that higher-spec lights are specc’d in terms of lumens, not candela, so they are measuring slightly different things. But I am minded to go for something suitable for trail riding, even though I will be using it on a road bike, because the better the view I have of the road (and of the potholes) the safer my ride will be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery life: will need at least 3 hours between charges, running at full power. Preferably more. My actual commute is normally around 90 mins per day, and I want to build some resilience against (a) unforeseen delays, and (b) forgetting to charge the light every night.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size/Portability: I want to be able to put the light on one bike, to get it off in a matter of seconds, to be able to stuff it into my pocket while I’m on the train, and to then use it on another bike when I get off the train. I’d be happy to buy multiple brackets if necessary (which is what I did with the cateye).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ruggedness: I don’t mind spending money on a headlight but I don’t want it falling apart after two months like the last one. I want something that’ll be good for a couple of years at least.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounting: I'm only interested in something I can put on the handlebars. (I already have a light on my helmet and like to ride with both sets.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a preference is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;that it runs on AA batteries. This is probably the most awkward thing, and I realise that most of the better headlights run on their own rechargeable batteries, so I may have to sacrifice this one. The reason for wanting this is twofold: First, my rear light runs on AA batteries so in terms of keeping spares in my saddlebag, I only need one variety of battery. Second, I find standard battery sizes reassuring because if push came to shove, I can walk into a shop and buy replacements on the spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things…..my budget is quite open. I’m quite happy to spend a few hundred (GBP). Obviously, the cheaper the better since ideally I will buy two of them, but by the same token I don’t want to sacrifice quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my question at the end of all this is whether anybody had any suggestions for me? I know I can google to death, and read reviews all over the web, so I don't need peoples' help there. What would be good are answers based on peoples’ real world experience gained over a period of time. The kind of stuff that I'm not likely to see based on the short test e.g. Bikeradar would have performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone got any advice? TIA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #1 (decided what to buy)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I have sacrificed the AA aspect and today ordered a Niterider Pro 1800 headlight. This was the best my budget would allow and I figure I will be able to run it on med or even low to get the kind of runtimes I'd like. I bought it from a UK dealer - if I were based in the USA I would certainly have given the DiNotte lights more consideration. Thanks very much especially to Benzo and Glenn for pointing me in this direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #2 (first impressions)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used the light for the first time today (6:30am, -1C, clear, no moonlight) and was very happy with the brightness (low setting, 400 lumens), and with the shape of the beam (width and depth). &quot;Enough&quot; brightness was a big unknown because some people have mentioned 300 lumens, others much higher values. Seems very well built overall. Battery was a little larger and a little heavier than expected, but not uncomfortably so and not noticed once strapped onto the top tube. Certainly worth it if I can squeeze 6 hours out. Minor issue was the velcro fastener rubbing against my tights, will need to watch that because those tights were expensive! But this will just be fine tuning. I now just need to ride to the station every day for the next 2 months to offset the cost of the light against car park charges!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T12:16:56.920" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T16:36:24.417" Title="Recommendations for bike headlight.....possibly running on AA batteries?" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;night-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-08-08T06:44:34.440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14616" CreationDate="2013-01-09T12:43:07.713" Score="0" ViewCount="928" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to get a ZeroStack headset upper and have found the right size in terms of diameters.  However, different models of headset reach different depths into the cup on the frame.  Should the headset depth fit the cup perfectly?  Is it acceptable for the headset to not reach the bottom of the cup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y0EZR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is an Orange Elite 2012. The depth is approximately 12mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5851" LastEditorUserId="5851" LastEditDate="2013-01-09T19:43:15.957" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T03:17:45.040" Title="Zerostack headset fit" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-09T13:02:08.203" Score="0" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this enough for a turbo trainer and if so, which tacx should I buy?I am looking at a tacx blue or satori as these are in my budget however will the satori be to hard to ride as it has a max output of about 1000watt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5853" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T12:35:44.773" Title="I am looking at buying a tacx turbo trainer however I am only putting out about 200w on a bike" Tags="&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2013-01-09T13:27:06.213" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never really understood this obsession with puncture proof bicycle tyres. Bicycle tyres are lightweight and full of air. If a 3 inch nail is heading for your tyre then it IS going to puncture it, no matter what tyre it is. It`s mostly luck and recommending one tyre over another because you didnt get a puncture with it makes me think that person was on his lucky streak at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5856" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T13:27:06.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13933" CreationDate="2013-01-09T14:04:06.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Tacx Flow two or three years ago, so my answer is based on this. Also I don't use it all that much...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards power output, I have never measured mine when riding on the open road. I have only ever got power readings when using the turbo. I generally get readings from the headunit in the 200W range (probably anything between 150 and 400 depending on effort) but the flow itself is plenty easy enough to ride. Now how closely my turbo-calculated 200W will tally with your 200W is anybody's guess, but my gut feel is that there won't be a problem with them being too hard to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're stuck between the Blue or Sartori I can't help much there. But what I would say is that if you can afford to go up to the Flow, then although out-of-the-box it is &quot;just&quot; a trainer, you have the possibility to upgrade to use the Tacx VR software at a later date. I do not believe that anything beneath the Flow gives you this option, and this was my reason for settling on the Flow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if that's something you might want to do in the future.... well buying the VR upgrade for the Flow will be cheaper than buying a new VR turbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T14:04:06.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13931" CreationDate="2013-01-09T14:10:06.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best light I've seen on AA batteries is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/busch-mller-ixon-iq-l.e.d.-headlight-with-charger-and-nimh-batteries-2692.htm&quot;&gt;Busch &amp;amp; Muller IXON IQ&lt;/a&gt;.  It is a solid commuter light and can run on AA batteries and can run for 5 hours on high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my opinion is that there are so many usb rechargable lights that are much brighter and that you would be better served with something like a cygolite metro or nightrider lumina and keep your AA powered light as a backup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T14:10:06.763" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13931" CreationDate="2013-01-09T15:57:14.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking for a head light and a tail light as well. Last month I emailed DiNotte regarding their AA-powered lights, and here's what they told me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=========================================&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 400R-Lithium ion and 400R AA only differ in a few ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's different electronics inside to accomodate different power source, cable connections and safety requirements for lithium ion powered batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also different because 4 AA batteries can only provide so much current, so THE 400R Lithium ion is 2X as bright as the AA model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DiNotte Lighting USA&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 Merrill Drive&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Suite 10&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hampton NH, 03842&lt;br&gt;&#xA;email:  Sales@dinottelighting.com &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tel:     (603) 929 0123&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fax:    (603 926 3597)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Original Message&lt;br&gt;&#xA;----------------&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Subject: Question&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;To: sales@dinottelighting.com&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Date: 2012-12-14 23:12:10&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm looking at your 400R and your 400R-AA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Functionally, they're the same, no? Same light, different power source?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=========================================&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point-- even though I would have thought it absolutely insane just a few years ago-- I'm considering dropping around $500 on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.dinottelighting.com/1200l-plus-dual-quad-headlight-with-400r-taillight-p94.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DiNotte package deal 400R tail light, and 1200L headlight&lt;/a&gt;. The 400R is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dinotte+400r&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bright enough for day use&lt;/a&gt;, which is basically what I want it for, and as another wisely observed, &quot;if you compare the cost of the 400R with the cost of an accident, the cost of the 400R is insignificant.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T15:57:14.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8569" CreationDate="2013-01-09T17:05:47.277" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ive found use seatposts to be better than thudbuster st, absorbs smaller shocks and larger one way better and i preffer the action ie straight up and down rather than back as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5857" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T17:05:47.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13931" CreationDate="2013-01-09T17:09:06.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have some contradictions in your requirements that are physically impossible. A light that is bright enough to ride by on a dark road requires a &lt;strong&gt;large&lt;/strong&gt; amount of electricity to run, even with efficient LEDs as a light source. Even rechargable AA batteries can not output enough current to drive a bright light for 3 - 4 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dx.com/p/xml-t60-1050lm-3-mode-white-led-bicycle-bike-light-4-x-18650-961104287&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3 Mode LED Bike Light&lt;/a&gt;. It consists of a light unit that uses rubber o-rings to attach to your handle bars. You can pop it off in a second. The power supply is a set of 4 rechargable 18650 batteries in a small nylon pack with a velcro strap. This straps anywhere on your bike frame. This light puts out around &lt;strong&gt;900 lumens&lt;/strong&gt; of light, basically the equivalent of a 75 watt light bulb. You also get a charger and the batteries last 3 - 4 hours at full power. This light runs around $45 - $55 when purchased straight from the site. Double that if purchased in the US on line, or triple it if purchased from a bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3 modes are full power, half power, flash, and off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the amount of light you need (in lumens) depends on how dark the area is that you are riding in &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; how fast you are going. If you ride at 10 mph, you are traveling 14.7 feet every second. Realistically you need about 2 full seconds to detect, react, and avoid something, which means at 10 mph your light needs to illuminate 30 feet ahead of you. At 15 mph, you need to illuminate 45 feet ahead of you. At 20 mph this moves to 60 feet. Illuminating 60 full feet of road requires about 1,000 lumens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastEditorUserId="5360" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T16:23:38.050" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T16:23:38.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13942" CreationDate="2013-01-09T19:36:21.550" Score="4" ViewCount="2003" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the current stem and bars I have on my bike I have quite an upright position and get a falling back feeling while climbing. When I stand in the pedals to gain an extra bit of power in a climb I often end up spinning my back wheel and losing momentum. I'd like to have a more solid feeling when climbing so that I can exert more effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to improve my position so that my climbing improves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The set up is standard on my Specialized Hardrock (I believe it is a 75mm stem with a 20 rise and a 680mm bar with 35mm rise and 8 backsweep). I tried some back of a fag packet trigonometry and guessing that my hand position (not taking into account the angle of the headtube) is currently about 23mm in front of the steerer and about 61mm above it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T18:57:41.987" Title="Hill climb riding position" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13941" CreationDate="2013-01-09T22:17:27.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you have worked out the problem is your center of gravity is too far back, so there is not enough weight on the front wheel. This is a common problem, and I have found my new bike is worse than any other I have ridden- I went for a smallish frame for tight technical single track.  I am still playing around to see what I can do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you have tried leading forward and getting you weight further forward.... On the track, try to slide forward to the front of the seat. Change down to a lower gear and higher cadence, you generate a smoother action and have more control over the torque lifting the front wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimate solution is usually a larger frame - more precisely, a longer wheelbase. Assuming you are not able to change you bike there are a couple of things you can do at no or low cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slide you seat forward on the rails - this moves your weight forward, but shortens the cockpit. Get a longer seat, which gives you options of riding positions. Forward for hill climb, back for a a bigger cockpit and better fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a longer stem - 75mm is quite short and you should be able to go out to about 120mm. What I suggest is try several sizes and see if you can find a fit that works - talk to your LBS, they may be prepared to let you try on and swap it if it does not work. It's such a trivial job I have seen it done on the trail. Remember to play with seats rails as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handlebar height. If you have packers on the steerer, lower the height of the bars by putting the packers on the top or the stem, and see how that feels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As said, all these things are aimed at moving weight forward. Some will change the way you sit and ride, and the best position will need to be a compromise between uphill climbs and other riding. Often, by the time it is steep enough to be a problem, you are quicker to get off the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T22:17:27.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13931" CreationDate="2013-01-09T22:29:21.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the past few months I have been using the cheapest light of around 1,000 lumens that I could find. It is made in China and sold in the US under the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicshineusa.com/products/lights&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MagicShine&lt;/a&gt; brand. I actually got my light from a local guy, who sells a modified version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicshineusa.com/products/lights/mj-808u-magicshine-1100-lumen-bike-light&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MJ-808&lt;/a&gt; with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeempowerment.com/Magicshine.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quick release bar mount&lt;/a&gt;, that makes it a snap to remove and reinstall the light from the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run it on a 4 cell, 4400mAH, battery pack, and I recharge it every two days, which is probably about 90 minutes of light time. I once squeezed it to about 2 and a half hours, but had to run it on low for the last half hour for fear of running out of juice before getting home. One nice thing about this light is it has a color coded battery charge indicator incorporated in the push button to switch between modes: go to the low setting when orange turns red! They also sell a 6 cell, 6600mAH version, which should extend battery life by an extra 50%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not riding off-road, 1,000 lumens should be enough. The roads around San Diego are not very well kept, and a good stretch of my daily commute is on dark suburban streets with no lighting, and I manage fine. Even on the low light setting I wouldn't feel too uncomfortable, although by now I probably know every bump of the road by heart! They do make 2,000 lumen lights as well, which are mostly used by mountain bikers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for ruggedness, I have no complaints either. The casing is aluminum, which is probably good for it not falling to pieces. And in my limited experience of riding in the rain, it has stood to the challenge of a couple of downpours with no issue whatsoever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T22:29:21.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13932" CreationDate="2013-01-09T23:06:07.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The exact model is a Cane Creek 5 Zero Stack Tapered.  I got this information from the Orange website (www.orangebikes.co.uk/bikes/archive/2012/elite_pro/), although as it isn't advertised on Cane Creek's website I would assume that it is an OEM product.  You will need to get the dimensions so you can buy an alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to say though normally  for integrated headsets that have become worn all you need to do is read off the bearing manufacturer code (laser etched onto the outer race usually), and find a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T23:06:07.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13946" CreationDate="2013-01-09T23:39:50.143" Score="2" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked all over the net and can't find the proper tool or D.I.Y tool to take this apart. It's a single speed (with a ratcheting mechanism), and I'm trying to take it apart to make it a fixie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the inner ring thingy, I counted 9 splines, and on that outer ring I counted 6 grooves. I compared all of this to park tool pictures, but did not find anything fitting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QIh2l.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home solutions and advice are welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5832" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T00:56:31.410" Title="Need some experienced eyes on removing cog/rear wheel mechanism" Tags="&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13945" CreationDate="2013-01-09T23:48:18.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The outer ring looks like a lock ring. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/fixed-gear-lockring-wrench-hcw-17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; should help you get it off:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f4U7Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T23:48:18.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13945" CreationDate="2013-01-10T00:56:31.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a &quot;home solution&quot; for a lockring wrench, I've seen photos of people taking a large pair of waterpump pliars, ( buy a cheap pair with the proper jaw width ), and then grinding out a &quot;slot&quot; just back of the tips of the jaws so the tips would fit down into the &quot;U&quot; shaped cutouts and serve as a lockring tool to remove the outer ring from the cog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T00:56:31.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13976" CreationDate="2013-01-10T02:50:26.887" Score="12" ViewCount="7487" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today was rainy in Palo Alto and I was driving home in bike lane. My bike slipped and I felt off my bike in a part of bike lane that was made of concrete instead of asphalt(&lt;a href=&quot;https://maps.google.com/?ll=37.441128,-122.16028&amp;amp;spn=0.003007,0.005659&amp;amp;t=m&amp;amp;z=18&amp;amp;layer=c&amp;amp;cbll=37.441128,-122.16028&amp;amp;panoid=HKEnhAKOlXpTUGQkz4FOvQ&amp;amp;cbp=12,250.55,,0,0&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). I didn't injured and I am fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was falling down I didn't know how to shape my body to protect myself and prevent serious injuries. What should I do in situations like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2381" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T15:11:14.313" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T12:32:56.583" Title="How to protect myself when falling off the bicycle" Tags="&lt;city&gt;&lt;protection&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-01-10T04:46:07.953" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not much more to say than: tuck your head, protect your face with your arms, relax, and wait for it to be over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, though, you're not going to remember the contents of this post the next time shit hits the fan and you find yourself tumbling on the asphalt. But if you can manage any of these things, you'll hopefully minimize the chance of breaking an arm or scraping the hell out of your face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T04:46:07.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-01-10T05:17:58.857" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, things happen so fast it is practically impossible to react with some kind of plan. I have fallen over when I couldn't unclip fast enough (in other words, when the bike was stopped at a light or similar), and those were the only times where I knew I was falling and could actually spend a fraction of a second looking for something to grab, or trying to figure out how to land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the other times-- in other words, when my bike was moving-- it happened so fast that it seemed I was on the ground looking up before I could really do something intensional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose if you live on the bike, you may become skilled enough to where you can recover from some crashes (see Peter Sagan &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLvTzk72vk4&quot;&gt;right around 4:50 in this video&lt;/a&gt; for an example), but even if you're very skilled, there isn't much you can do in many circumstances, except perhaps try to learn from them so you don't repeat mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll give you an example. A few weeks ago I was riding behind a friend-- a skilled rider, many years of experience-- and in a bike tunnel which goes under a road, there was some sand in our lane. He did not see the sand, and when his bike went over it, his hands were jarred from the bars, and he went down, right in front of me. It was all I could do to slow down and try to avoid hitting him and his bike. What did he do right? He wore his helmet. What did he do wrong? His grip on the bars was too loose. Hopefully he will relearn that lesson (I'm sure he knew it already). All it takes is a moment of inattention. But what could he do? He was on the ground in a fraction of a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, you might be well-advised to carry some basic first-aid stuff. Something to clean patches of road-rash, and that kind of thing. Riding in an urban environment, you probably don't need an extensive kit like mountain bikers often carry, but you might get a good idea of what you might want to select from &lt;a href=&quot;http://suite101.com/article/first-aid-kit-supplies-for-mountain-biking-a216158&quot;&gt;looking at such kits&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T06:06:39.133" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T06:06:39.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8832" CreationDate="2013-01-10T05:27:42.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not use glove oil on a Brooks saddle.  A saddle is a hammock in design, a glove is not, oil will break down the leather and make it eventually unable to handle the weight of a rider, and the leather will start to pull away from the rivets and you will have to adjust the tensioner a lot more frequently which will shorten the life of the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brooks has been making their saddles for over 100 years, they know how best to treat their saddles.  So follow only their care instructions and not some bicycle guru on the internet, or your local bike shop, or some friend, etc.  Brooks even states in their warranty that the use of any other product other then Proofide on their saddle will void their warranty, end of story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5862" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T05:27:42.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13931" CreationDate="2013-01-10T05:52:16.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should see various light comparison reviews on the internet now, this will help you answer how much light to you need vs how much can you afford.  So see these sites:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Content_10054_10551_-1_HeadLightBuyersGuide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Content_10054_10551_-1_HeadLightBuyersGuide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reviews.mtbr.com/2012-bike-lights-shootout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reviews.mtbr.com/2012-bike-lights-shootout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend that you spend as much as you can afford, those light comparisons will give you a clue as to which way to go, one of the best deals on the market is the Cygolite ExpiliOn 600 which you will see tested on the Performance site, you will notice this light is quite bright and cost around $100.  But I would save the Cateye you have and convert it to be used as a helmet light either in the steady mode or flashing mode to attract attention if it's not bright enough to see the road with.  Never throw away a light, some how figure out how you can add it to the bike.  I had a Cygolite ExpiliOn 350 and after buying a Cygolite Mitycross 480 for the helmet, and then later a Phillips Saferide for the bar, I took the ExpiliOn and added 3 layers of red reflector repair tape to it...it's now the brightest tail light I've ever seen and for significantly lower price then those real expensive tail lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5862" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T05:52:16.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13932" CreationDate="2013-01-10T06:20:58.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been shopping for headsets and now believe you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to go all the way down, but longer is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T06:20:58.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-01-10T07:58:13.153" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest following a short course in some martial arts class where you can learn to fall correctly (Judo would be my suggestion)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there is nothing you can read that will prepare you for a fall and that will suppress the reflex to stick out your arm to catch yourself (and possibly break it); only practice will have you instead tuck in that arm provide a convex surface to the ground and roll it out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5863" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T07:58:13.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-10T07:59:13.537" Score="2" ViewCount="1756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Specialized Stumpjumper Evo FSR and as all the FSR frames its' shock is underneath the top tube. Now the issue that the only option to put the bike on the rack is to put the shock shaft on the rubber U that's on the rack. The question is, can I do something to ensure avoiding scratching shock shaft? Or the only way is to get a new rack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T18:33:08.130" Title="Could rubber parts on bike rack damage the rear shock?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13845" CreationDate="2013-01-10T09:22:42.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an 8-speed cassette and the chainset is 9 speed, but it should work fine:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=15561220&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=15561220&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5865" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T09:22:42.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13955" CreationDate="2013-01-10T11:32:22.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can purchase a rack adapter thats primary use is for mixte, womens bikes or bike with angled top tubes. It is a removeable bar that attaches to the seatpost on one end and then attaches between the stem and the headset top bearing at the other end. You then hang the bike on the rack by the adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T11:46:09.747" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T11:46:09.747" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-01-10T13:01:07.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My instinct is to put my arms out in the hope of protecting my head and face. Good quality gloves will help your hands from getting cut up. Also needless to say, &lt;strong&gt;wear a helmet&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T13:01:07.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-01-10T14:16:10.600" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To some extent, you can actually &quot;learn&quot; to fall. The problem is that the learning has to be &quot;motor learning&quot; and not just thinking about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, you have to train your nervous system to do it through practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the best bike handling I've ever seen has been from people who ride single track (mountain biking). This type of riding involves &lt;em&gt;lots&lt;/em&gt; of wipe-outs. As a result these riders develop very good body-english skills. And these skills translate to road-riding as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, there are conditions where no amount of preparation can help you because everything occurs so fast you don't have time to move your body even if reaction response is instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T14:16:10.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-01-10T16:15:21.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an ex BMX rider I feel quite confident to fall (you crash alot when you try things). But that's not the case for commuting/road bike, in fact you can't do anything, maybe beside falling on mats (and still it sounds weird to practise it). What really could be good is building muscles that will hold your bones in place, when you flip over. Anyway, the best thing to do is to ride with care and not to fall at all :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T16:15:21.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13968" CreationDate="2013-01-10T18:38:03.173" Score="3" ViewCount="8509" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the height of the steerer tube clamp differ between stems, or is there one standard height used on all modern mountain bike stems? In my particular case I want to replace the stem on a mountain bike with a shorter one, but can I pick any other threadless stem and have it fight right on without needing any more/less spacers etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-01-11T03:37:30.523" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T07:21:04.440" Title="Do all stems have the same stack height for the steerer tube clamp?" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-10T18:40:48.943" Score="3" ViewCount="2591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hybrid bike which has dropped handlebars with Shimano Tiagra dual brake/gear levers.&#xA;The front mech is a Tiagra triple ring and the back mech is Shimano Deore XT (9 sprockets)&#xA;I have developed back problems and now need a more upright position when riding and am hoping to convert my bike to a flatbar.&#xA;Can anyone help in identifying the options for compatible Gear Shifters.&#xA;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5872" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T15:16:51.180" Title="Shimano compatibilty problem" Tags="&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-01-10T19:11:48.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, martial arts is the way to go and I am talking from experience. I am a black belt in ju jutsu and I have my brain &quot;fully programmed&quot; for falling correctly. Once I had a frontal collision with another biker and was uninjured because I fell correctly. But all this is easily said than done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://judoinfo.com/ukemi.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://judoinfo.com/ukemi.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The first one, the rolling technique is what I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T19:11:48.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13963" CreationDate="2013-01-10T19:13:21.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stems are certainly not all the same height or length. As long as you get the right diameter, I believe you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had friends swap out stems to fine tune the positioning on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="563" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T19:13:21.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2013-01-10T19:24:20.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a protector like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0048LO6BQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Tuffy-Bicycle-Tire-Liner/dp/B0048LO6BQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've NEVER had a flat since I put it in my mountain bike 5 years ago. An only one in the road bike (2 years ago), but it was because I run over a nail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastEditorUserId="4965" LastEditDate="2013-01-13T07:21:58.170" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T07:21:58.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13963" CreationDate="2013-01-10T20:46:31.417" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the clamp that mounts to the steerer is not a standard height. There will be slight differences in the stack height of the clamp itself between different makes and models of stems that can typically be accommodated for with addition or subtraction of a small number of spacers, or the difference may be so slight that you don't have to change your spacers at all.&#xA;Spacers are cheap so don't sweat it. The only situation where you could run into trouble is if you have no spacers and a steerer that is already nearly too short and you move to a stem with a taller steerer clamp (stack height). Doesn't sound like that's an issue in your case, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-01-11T03:39:31.647" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T03:39:31.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2013-01-10T22:00:25.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a way to repurpose them, but recycling is a hard thing to come by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now its just a local project called Bicycle Re-Cycle, in Austin, TX but open for ideas and poeple willing to help make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycle-recycle.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bicycle-recycle.com/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5874" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T22:00:25.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13964" CreationDate="2013-01-10T22:52:40.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nine speed Shimano mountain bike shifters are usually (maybe always) compatible with Shimano derailleurs. I've definitely mismatched them in a variety of configurations and never had a problem. Stick with Shimano and you should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-01-11T15:16:51.180" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T15:16:51.180" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13964" CreationDate="2013-01-11T03:30:28.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your choosing a 9 speed Shimano shifter for the rear and triple shifter for the front you'll be fine. That's basically everything in the Deore lineup, as long as it's 9 speed. Obviously you'll want to stay away from 10 speed shifters and dont try to mix and match Shimano derailleurs and SRAM shifters or vice versa.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Though you didn't ask this, what may be a more important concern is how your bike is going to fit when you slap flat bars on it. Road bike frames are shorter in the effective top tube than mountain bikes are due to the fact that a straight handlebar decreases reach compared to a drop bar. Your bike is going to fit pretty darned short if you do a flat bar conversion which can cause comfort problems of it's own. There are other fit issues to be considered when doing a flat bar conversion on a road bike, but in my opinion this is the big one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T03:30:28.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13964" CreationDate="2013-01-11T03:49:56.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you rush to spend money on different bars and different shifters, have you ever considered a shorter stem? Perhaps a photo of your current bars/stem, and/or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pricepoint.com/TechPages/TECH_Page_STEM.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an actual measurement of your stem&lt;/a&gt; would help me to be more specific. You should measure it center-to-center, as shown in the illustration (3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lODPu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stem measurements&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've found is that I get back pain when I'm too stretched out. That is, when the reach is too much for me, I get back pain. You can see the measurement I'm referring to in the picture below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/awHYY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bicycle Reach&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't take much of a change in the stem length to make a difference. Long story short, I changed my saddle and my bars, and started getting horrible back pain after 40 miles or so. I shortened my stem by 30 mm, and all is well. I can ride 70 miles or more before I start feeling any pains, but back pain is not one of them, typically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't post pics of your bike, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roadbikeaction.com/Features/content/67/4037/How-To-Measure-Your-Bike.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;measurements&lt;/a&gt; would be helpful for you to know. In addition, check your bike vs. a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fit calculator like this one&lt;/a&gt;. Make sure you're in the range of numbers before you start throwing money at this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T03:49:56.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-01-11T03:51:10.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ride a mountain bike and fall a bunch. Usually less chance of getting hurt on trails and it does train you to fall right without thinking about it. Probably not practical if you don't own or care to own a mountain bike, or you have no trails nearby. That said, if you go down on pavement at speed your going to get hurt at least a little, and sometimes it happens so fast that no amount of muscle memory is going to help you. That's where proper gear comes in. &lt;br&gt;Appropriate gear goes a long ways when you crash. At the minimum you need a helmet... always. Gloves are also fantastic for getting chewed up in place of your palms as you will inevitably put your hands out to catch yourself if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T03:51:10.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-01-11T06:11:17.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume you're a bright Stanford kid, and that your brain &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; remember this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work = F * d&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work = Force * distance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try punching your arch nemesis for an instant. Just hit him for a second and as soon as you touch him, pull your hand back. Nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when you punch, punch behind him. Keep pushing, all the way through, pushing pushing pushing. Whoa. Can you believe your own strength? That guy just flew across the room. You can try this with a punching bag, too. Whatever you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you punched your grandma or whoever, you had a lot of force but you didn't keep applying it over a distance. When you push push push then you do a lot of work to your poor grandma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically the ground/fire-hydrant/tree is going to do a lot of work to you. That amount of work isn't changing, no matter what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you've got&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WORK&lt;/strong&gt; = force * distance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice how work is bold here. Imagine work is written 10 feet tall on a chalkboard to represent how big work is here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if your distance is small, the force is going to need to be... (guess)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;very big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WORK&lt;/strong&gt; = &lt;strong&gt;FORCE&lt;/strong&gt; * dist&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you can find a way to extend your distance.... the force you experience will shrink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you can extend your legs, extend your hands, do a parkour/Ta Kwon Do roll, something, that will dampen your fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example. Someone hits a baseball super deep into back field. You're playing without a baseball mit. Say you just hold your hand steady and catch it all at once. SMACK. That really hurts your hand. Now say you extend your hand all the way out, and as the ball lands in your hand, your arm moves back until your hand is at your chest, absorbing the blow. Ahhhh. No sweat!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work=Force*distance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;work is going to be same-same&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Force needs to be small&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so make distance big&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guys comments make a very good point. A lot of people get injured by extending their limbs. What's happening is they don't give their limbs room to bend. They brace for the fall by extending their arms/legs too far out, to protect their body/head. Instead they get locked. OUCH. Extend your arms/legs, but don't lock them forward. That's just going to make the distance very small again, and it's really going to hurt your joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So extend, but don't lock your elbows/knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good point guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it like falling. Don't lock your legs all the way forward. That's... really going to hurt. But if you extend the toes of your foot, bend your knees a little, and give that ground a good SLAP with your hands when you're landing, that fall is going to feel like butter. You can practice absorbing falls on a set of stairs. Go up one step, jump off, extend your feet/legs, and practice absorbing the whole fall. Then go up another step. Keep working at it until you can run off the top of the stairs and land on the bottom (if you're intense like that). You'll notice that the difference between the 10th step and the 11th step is HUGE. And the difference between the 11th step and the 12th step is INSANE. But that's another physics lesson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Clarification&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The physics does not apply exclusively to spherical bodies. If you can extend your slide to 35 feet instead of 30 feet, you will SIGNIFICANTLY decrease the trauma you experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;Kinetic&lt;/em&gt;&quot; energy = moving energy = (mass * velocity^2)/2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;velocity = distance/time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means with any change in velocity will SQUARE the energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you talk about &lt;strong&gt;collisions&lt;/strong&gt;, you're talking about momentum. Specifically the &lt;strong&gt;change&lt;/strong&gt; in momentum (&quot;impulse of momentum&quot;) or change in  mass * velocity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mass * velocity = Momentum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mass is staying same-same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Velocity is changing from 20MPH to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a huge CHANGE in momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you increase the distance of that change in speed 5 ft (16% of 30ft), you decrease the change in momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So remember to find a way to roll if it's safe. Don't add more energy to the impact by rolling into the collision, unless you're going to get substantially more distance. For example, if you're falling and you know how to land on your feet and instead of SLAPPing the ground, you roll forward over your shoulder, that's going to be even better. It takes a little training to learn how to forward roll like that, and I'm assuming that the best way to think of this is simply. I like my models to be simpler than the actual thing I'm describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just think: how can I increase the distance of this collision? I don't want to BOOM hit the pavement all at once. I want to soften the blow by sliding more, absorbing some of the impact, whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a medical doctor and I don't know very much anatomy. Something tells me we evolved to protect our heads and bodies for a reason. That's where all the really important organ stuff is. The problem with people who crash a lot, like skateboarders, is they tend to fuck up their limbs before they become experts at falling. Just don't lock your elbows/knees by over extending them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second, and probably most important advice: try to brake before the accident. Changing the speed before your collision will reduce the energy SQUARED. Again, try jumping off your stairs. Falling from 13ft is way way harder than falling from 10ft. That's because the little extra speed you have when landing gets squared as kinetic energy. Think of energy as the potential to do work. Like the floor having the potential to work your body into jello.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wow, telling people to brake is probably the first advice I should have given.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5637" LastEditorUserId="5637" LastEditDate="2013-01-25T17:21:10.833" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T17:21:10.833" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2013-01-11T06:34:05.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the yardstash bike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yardstash.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;storage tent&lt;/a&gt;. Held up well for a year so far and ventilates to keep my mountain bike dry and rust free,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5877" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T06:34:05.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13406" CreationDate="2013-01-11T09:29:22.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you could take this technique pretty far, but probably not all the way (at least usefully).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a lot of use for the first part of your plan: taking multiple pictures and reconstructing a 3D model. If you try this for multiple postures I think it should be possible to determine an optimal position for you on your bike based on just looking at the 2D area you take up perpendicular to your riding direction (through the cutout method described in the article about the chung method you linked). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is where the use stops I fear. Some more insight might be gained by looking at the flow of air around your 3D model in something such as the fluid solver you link, but the accuracy is going to be too low to discern between different postures. When you go for that level of detail small things such as the ripples in your shirt or even the fabric of your shirt can have an impact, and the errors you made in the 3D reconstruction will be far larger than the differences you can make by slightly improving your posture on the bike even more than you did in the first step. Apart from this, I think that a fluid solver for movie effects is optimized for visuals first, not for scientific accuracy, so I'd be suspicious of any result it produces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try the full fluid mechanics simulation thing you would have to use a 3D scanner or some other very accurate method to produce the 3D models of you on your bike, and then I'd still try and find an actual scientific fluid solver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T09:29:22.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13933" CreationDate="2013-01-11T10:15:08.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a satori, but should be similar with other trainer. The satori has 10 resistance settings. In addition to that, you still have your bike gears to adjust the load, so you can spin fast with very light load. So you shouldn't worry that it will be too hard to spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give some illustration, the lightest setting should be rideable for anyone who can ride a bike. #3 setting with max gear on the bike should be pretty hard for someone with 200 w.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T10:15:08.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13933" CreationDate="2013-01-11T12:35:44.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not worry - You can shift to an easier gear and work on your fitness. This is what the smaller rings at front are for. You will get more watts later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having the opposite problem - I have rollers and I am turning cranks at 110 rpm and this gives me resistance around my threshold power for an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T12:35:44.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-11T14:29:10.060" Score="3" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've commuted on a bike in winter for 13 years now, but never as far as now, that is 30 km daily. I have a problem which I never experienced before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In temperatures close to 0C and on paths covered with thin layer of melting snow turning into loose ice particles, the front wheel picks up these particles and splats them over the lower parts of the bike. Some of them get caught between sprockets, which they turn into an ice cone, causing the chain to lose grip and slip over them (with continues cracking sound, just like when riding with extremely worn out chain). This concerns fast gears (sprockets 11-17T), which I use most often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no other choice then but to shift to lighter gears and make a helicopter out of the cranks, but that's annoying over a long distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2431/5879&quot;&gt;How to prevent my hub body from freezing?&lt;/a&gt;, but the author does not mention snow at all, so I don't know if the same advice applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5879" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T18:31:31.247" Title="How to prevent ice from clogging the cassette?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;ice&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-11T14:50:05.230" Score="5" ViewCount="1549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use Google Earth to plan my cross-county routes. Lately, I have begun to ride long distance trips (over 70 kms). Checking my bike computer against Google Earth I have noticed consistent discrepencies of over 10% (computer give me more distance than Google Earth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked my computer againts my hand held GPS (old Garmin eTrex) and both differ by less than 0.5% in short test (2.5 kms). Also, I cross checked with my ride partner and we both are getting the same readings (+/- 3%) from our computers (different brands) over long distances (20-30 kms).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike computer is generic cheap chinese model. I can only select whole wheels size (26&quot;), with no fine tunning. I trace my routes over dirt/paved road, so I certainly keep my planned course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you explain why real distances (according to my computer) are always +10% over Google Earth? What's your experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T18:51:04.860" Title="How accurate is Google Earth" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13983" CreationDate="2013-01-11T15:25:10.303" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you can't fine tune your wheel size, the bike computer likely is estimating your wheel to be larger than it actually is, causing this discrepency. This is because a larger wheel covers more ground per revolution, so over time that adds up to a sizable difference and probably scales pretty evenly with whatever distance you cover. You may need to get a computer that allows you to measure your wheel distance traveled. See details on this related &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11255/choosing-the-right-wheel-size-in-my-cycle-computer&quot;&gt;Question&lt;/a&gt; to see how to setup the computer an accurate wheel size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's hard to estimate your GPS accuracy with a short test.  There is always some possible margin of error in using a gps unit, depending on how often it records waypoints and the level of accuracy on each measurement. I'd retry your GPS test over a longer period of time, it may vary more depending on the length of the ride.  It could cut off a few meters here and a few meters there, which could eventually add up over the course of a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google isn't prefect either (as much as I want them to be).  It's good to be aware of the margin of error in your measuring systems so you can make accomodations and adjustments as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T15:25:10.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13981" CreationDate="2013-01-11T17:19:06.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ice wax like in the linked post will most likely solve your problem. if not you can use WD-40. Put it on just before you go out but give it about 10-15 min to do its thing. Don't crank it around or anything just let it sit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want to happen is for the lubricating elements to make it hard for the ice to form, thats pretty much what the wax does too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with WD you can use it to de-ice while your riding* as long as you give it a few to evaporate the penetrating elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would not use this on too old of a bike or like a cheap department store bike as the driving mechanisms of that type of bicycle are not built in a way that the WD40 would work best (things can come apart)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use this method all the time for work. If its a problem you spray it on when you stop to make a delivery, in the few min it takes to do your thing, it does it's thing &amp;amp; your good to go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2220" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T17:19:06.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13941" CreationDate="2013-01-11T17:41:13.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that you are standing up an your climb. That in turn is causing your center of gravity to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you stand up to pedal going up hill your using your weight to help turn the cranks. Unless your a rather large guy this is a rather in efficient way to move energy into the bicycle. When you are engaged to the saddle you can use your thighs to move the energy instead of your calves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important &amp;amp; likely most simple solution is to make sure the bicycle is as  properly adjusted to you as can be. Assuming the frame is not too mismatched (that would be outside the scope of this answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything is adjusted right, I would recommend two things. One for the bicycle &amp;amp; one for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the bicycle:&#xA;Invest in some cages for your pedals, even cheap 10 speed cages are better then none, but I say if your going to bother go strap-less. The comfort &amp;amp; control are aces. The largest overall advantage being that you can pull up on the crank on the upstroke &amp;amp; even out your cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For you:&#xA;You may thing that your legs are strong from standing all day or running or other type of work out (if they are good for your!) but I find what really helps with energy transfer on a grade is as simple as doing low heal raises when ever your standing around. the little bit of added strength is really great for controlling the angle of your foot on the petal to really be able to follow through with your stroke from for hip, through your thigh, through your ankle, and out the ball of your foot &amp;amp; into the pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2220" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T17:41:13.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1636" CreationDate="2013-01-11T17:59:50.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Determining the safety of a roadway as a cyclist is rather simple if you realize that its all about negative space. By that I mean if the roadway is our space, everything not a car, obstacle, or other cyclist is negative space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first question is is there enough negative space (where you want to be) to accommodate you. ie. a pack of ten cars one meter apart moving at 5kph has a lot more of that navigable negative space then 4 cars with 5 meters apart at 50kph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next is the condition of the road. Some times this may take a trip or two to discover pot holes, rough shoulders, backwards grain grates etc. But mainly your general assessment of are you comfortable ridding on that with the speed and reaction required for the surface&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Providing those conditions are met, it may be worth a try. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course be reasonable, if something seems like a bad idea it probably is, and even if it sounds good, its probably bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly be safe &amp;amp; smart. Its not difficult &amp;amp; will keep you alive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2220" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T17:59:50.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13983" CreationDate="2013-01-11T18:54:21.380" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It largerly depends on how you are marking the route in Google Earth and how you actually ride it. There are a couple of factors that introduce small diferencies when measuring distances and their effects are multiplied over distance, so the longer the route, the bigger the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The straight line effect&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I plan my route drawing a line over the map, but I only mark some points, Google will draw a straight line between two consecutive points. Remember that the shortest path between two points is a stright line, any other path will be longer. But when you actually ride the route you hardly ride straight lines, you ride curves. Each curve will add a little more than each line segment in your map, so, when adding all these diferencies up, the result is a longer actual ride than the planned line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When following or marking a route using some sort of GPS based solution, you have to account also for the &quot;sampling frequency&quot; of the device. For example, lets say you take a minute to travel around a roundabout. If your GPS device also &quot;samples&quot; your position every minute, it will likely mark your position twice in the same spot, so it will record 0 traled distance. This will affect you more in the more curvy trails and routes, specially if you ride at higher speeds. GPS based solutions also work calculating the distance from two consecutive points and adding up with the next pair, and so on. (Yes, it asumes a straight line between points). The higher the sampling fequency the more acurate the distance will be recorded, but also battery consumption will be higher and if files are a concern, they will also be bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also occurs in the vertical dimension. For example if you side over a small hill first going up a few meters, then going down over an otherwise straight path, but you marked only the beginning and ending point, most likely the software wont take the hill into account, measuring the distance as the straight line between the points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The curved line effect&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also another factor that comes into play: We all know that most bike odometers work by counting wheel revolutions. But many of us do not mentally acount for many wheel turns that are not actually accounting for travel distance. Lets say, you lift up the bike and let the wheel spin, or when you get to a resting point and do a few empty loops while waiting for other riders, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else is that, in curves, the front wheel actually travels a longer distance than the rear, and you, actually travel a distance that is in between. For example, lets say you ride trhoug a puddle that makes both your tires very wet, an then on a dry surface you ride a really tight U-turn. Now see the path marked by your tires. The fron one must have drawn a bigger semicircle than the rear one. If you want to be sure, measure them with flexible metric tape ;) This seems too little, but over a long route, every tight corner you ride, actually adds up to the distance &quot;seen&quot; from the front tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer the route, the more this will affect your predicted route distance versus actual ridden distance. But also, the more curvy routes are the ones more severely affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To improve the distance acuracy of the planned route, use shorter line segments along curved parts of the trail, i.e. put the points close together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I have always doubted about wether Google really takes into account ground level when measuring distance over traced paths, I don't know if it includes altitude of the ground at the marked point or if it assumes all points are at the same height. If it asumes same height, calculated line length is less than the actual path.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T18:54:21.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13941" CreationDate="2013-01-11T18:58:15.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you aren't riding clipless pedals, invest in them and a pair of shoes. It will be the single biggest improvement you'll ever make in how ride if you're riding XC- not only in terms of climbing but in terms of your whole riding experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you've already got that covered, before you go changing everything on your bike and possibly the bike itself, you need to work on positioning and technique. Here's three key things to work on to improve your climbing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stay seated! Move your butt way forward so that you're basically sitting on the nose of the saddle. It's not at all comfortable but it moves your center of gravity forward which does two things- it helps keep your front wheel on the ground and helps your rear wheel keep traction. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;Don't slam your saddle forward because you're having trouble climbing. You don't want to compromise your normal riding position so that you're always ready to climb- the rest of your riding will suffer. Of the reasons for adjusting saddle position for XC riding, center of gravity is not one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shift down a gear or two so that your cadence is higher than normal, but without being awkwardly high. Try to spin relatively smoothly up the hill. Once again, this aids in keeping traction with the rear wheel. Too high a gear and you'll stall, too low a gear and you'll find yourself losing your line.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drop your forearms to be parallel with the ground and pull back and down through your power stroke. This keeps your center of gravity lower and further forward while helping the rear wheel hold traction at the point when it's most likely to spin out. Don't be too forceful with this motion or else you'll just knock yourself off course on your ascent. This was probably the most useful piece of advice I was ever given to improve my climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, practice these techniques before you go and make your bike all squirrely. Technique beats equipment any day. If you're truly concerned about your fit and positioning on the bike, find an LBS with someone trained on bike fit to help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-01-12T18:57:41.987" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T18:57:41.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14004" CreationDate="2013-01-11T19:31:52.033" Score="5" ViewCount="4602" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wheel feels harder to spin than usual. I just put new tires on, and at first I thought a tire must be rubbing, but that's not the case. Seems like the hub might just be gunked up inside, but I'm just speculating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this video, does anyone else think this is higher-than-normal resistance?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://vimeo.com/57230216&quot;&gt;https://vimeo.com/57230216&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2151" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T09:54:46.247" Title="Fixed gear wheel hard to spin" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13990" CreationDate="2013-01-11T19:54:07.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does appear a bit off. Looks like there is some extra resistance present somewhere in your drivetrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your chain tension. If it's too tight, that could be adding resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also remove the chain from the fixed cog and spin the wheel to see if the resistance is coming from the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T19:54:07.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13990" CreationDate="2013-01-11T20:10:21.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain looks a little bit too taut for what I use in my fixie. But I don't rely on my chain to stop the bike, as I am of the sissy kind that rides with brakes, so dropping the chain is not that bad of an issue, although it has never actually happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But from your video, there basically does not seem to be any slack in the chain, I try go with 1-2 cm (1/2-1 inches) when pressing on it. That means that you see some curvature on the bottom side, yours appears to be running straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5173/how-tight-should-a-fixies-chain-be&quot;&gt;This other question&lt;/a&gt; may help you get the tension right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T20:10:21.997" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13990" CreationDate="2013-01-11T21:05:51.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be that, with the wheel off, you somehow overtightened the wheel bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T21:05:51.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13983" CreationDate="2013-01-11T21:14:02.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be surprised to find a 5% discrepancy, though 10% sounds a hair large.  Google has actual mileage measurements for major highways, but for minor roads they must estimate.  The Google estimates will generally be a bit short, because they don't quite have as many twists and turns and, especially, ups and downs as &quot;real life&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the point that, if you're lazily riding along a country road, you may not keep a straight path but wander back and forth in the roadway, but I assume for you're rides you'd been holding the bike pretty straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T21:14:02.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13995" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2013-01-11T21:48:10.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bicycles&lt;/strong&gt; is a question and answer site for people who ride, repair, or build bicycles. It's built and run &lt;em&gt;by you&lt;/em&gt; as part of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;Stack Exchange&lt;/a&gt; network of Q&amp;amp;A sites. With your help, we're working together to build a library of detailed answers to every question about bicycles and bicycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T18:37:45.640" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T18:37:45.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13996" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2013-01-11T21:48:47.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Specific issues with bicycles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Specific issues with bicycling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Real problems or questions that you’ve encountered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-01-11T21:48:47.747" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T21:48:47.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13997" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2013-01-11T21:49:08.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Anything not directly related to bicycles or bicycling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions that are primarily opinion-based&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions with too many possible answers or that would require an extremely long answer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-01-11T21:49:08.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T21:49:08.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13990" CreationDate="2013-01-11T22:31:03.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things to check here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your chain too tight? When you push on it, it should have some movement. A cm or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When tightening your wheel nuts, did you manage to upset the cones on your hubs? Take the wheel off and turn the axel by hand, if it feels like its moving in steps then the cones have got overtightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix that, you'll need Mr Sheldon Brown's help. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T22:31:03.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1636" CreationDate="2013-01-11T23:43:34.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two words...&quot;common sense!&quot; An experienced cyclist will want as light a traffic pattern as possible during the hours you intend to be on that particular road section. A wide berm or preferably, your own &quot;bike lane.&quot; As few intersections as possible, and those intersections that are there..having a traffic signal device rather than stop/yield signs and turning lanes. Fairly well lit area if night rides are required &#xA;( although too many business/advertising signs may distract drivers! ), and the driveways are always dangerous places where vehicles enter/exit. Of course using proper safety equipment on your bike &#xA;( rear-view mirror(s), lights and possible horn ) as well as your personal safety equipment ( helmet, proper clothing ) always make the experience less traumatising if you're prepared for the possibilities. The Oregon Bicycling Manual... &#xA;( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/HWY/BIKEPED/docs/bike_manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/HWY/BIKEPED/docs/bike_manual.pdf&lt;/a&gt; )...is the best bikeing manual I've come across for the bicyclist to take a look at. Every state should have a bicycle manual as good as this one. It's good to read for motorists too! If the cyclists do what a vehicle driver expects, you're much safer. The state of Oregon seems to be a leader for keeping their bicyclists safe from what I'm seeing! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T23:43:34.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14001" CreationDate="2013-01-12T02:00:42.070" Score="4" ViewCount="3216" Body="&lt;p&gt;So helpful folks here helped me get the cog and lockring off, and now I'm stuck with this. I looked on Park's website again for &quot;removal of freewheel&quot; help, but mine didn't fit with any of the methods. No hex wrenches, screws, bolts or anything. The ratcheting mechanism just seems sort of...on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's two notches (picture below), screams &quot;two-pronged tool&quot; but I'm starting to think this wheel simply cant be converted to a fixed wheel. New rear wheel perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lk9Fi.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5832" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T17:19:29.943" Title="More freehub removal problems." Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14000" CreationDate="2013-01-12T04:15:12.037" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the notches are about 25 mm apart, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-FR-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; may be your baby:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h5lyP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Park Tool website there are two very informative documents on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-and-freewheel-removal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;freewheel removal&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freewheel-destructive-removal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;destructive freewheel removal&lt;/a&gt;, which should answer all your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T04:15:12.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13895" CreationDate="2013-01-12T04:15:38.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having made the Seattle-San Diego run (long ago and far away) the simple answer is stick to highway 1 or highway 101 when necessary. Be aware that highway occasionally drops into the ocean, so be prepared :) As far as the fixed gear goes, I road a Masi which most assuredly has the wrong geometry for the job and I don't really remember switching gears all that much. My suggestion would be to choose carefully a gear that you can use a long time over terrain that is not flat. Hugging the ocean means up and down every time you have a 'dent' in the coast. The down is a blast, the up not so much. There is such a situation on the north side of Elk CA which was steep to the point that I broke two spokes not to mention coming to a stop and falling over! Enough war stories---have fun :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5889" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T04:15:38.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14000" CreationDate="2013-01-12T04:17:46.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a special tool that matches those notches so you can dismantle the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, yeah, you'd be better off with a new rear hub. You can reuse the rim, if you get a hub with the same number of holes, but you'll need new spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to need to know the spacing of the rear dropouts on your frame and find a track hub that matches that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mountain bikes this is usually 135mm, 130mm for road bikes, and 120mm for track bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T04:17:46.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13990" CreationDate="2013-01-12T04:48:16.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode over to the bike shop and had the mechanic take a look. My rear cones were way too tight from a previous adjustment from a different bike shop. He adjusted those and the wheel spins freely now. I'll post another video tomorrow so people can see the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2151" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T04:48:16.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13963" CreationDate="2013-01-12T07:21:04.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@kibbee Steerer length is not that important as you very very seldom get any other size than the standard 1 1/8&quot; other sizes like the 1&quot; steerer thread less are normally only for retro conversions and will be almost impossible to find a stem in a LBS without a special request , you are however correct on the bar size, the old standard been 1&quot; and the new standard of 31,8mm or oversized&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5812" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T07:21:04.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9770" CreationDate="2013-01-12T17:57:10.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with your observation of step #3, from the bike lane, move across to the other side of the street and wait for the green traffic signal to proceed across the stopped traffic to get to your intended lane of travel. If the traffic is light and you can safely move to the left hand turn lane, that is the &quot;normal&quot; way a vehicle would execute the left turn. Either way is fine, it just depends on your &quot;gut feelings&quot; and the amount of traffic at the time. You just have to watch for those turning right on a red traffic signal if that's permitted at this intersection, when using step #3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T17:57:10.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13981" CreationDate="2013-01-12T18:31:31.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try to fashion some sort of mud/snow guard to cover the cassette, but I'm not sure how you would mount it and really you're just prolonging the inevitable. I don't think there's a great way to prevent the problem your experiencing in the conditions you're riding in with a geared bike. A singlespeed or an internally geared will eliminate the problem, but I would imagine that reconfiguring your commuter bike's drivetrain is probably not all that practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T18:31:31.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9770" CreationDate="2013-01-12T18:38:58.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to take the safest option, wait for the pedestrian light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you feel confident that you can switch through all 3 lanes of traffic safely, do that early and take the left lane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dont turn directly from the bike lane if you value your life. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you should be waiting for the pedestrian light most, if not all of the time, but use your own best judgment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T18:38:58.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14011" CreationDate="2013-01-12T20:45:00.760" Score="6" ViewCount="3509" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a &quot;standard&quot; multipurpose bike like this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.islabikes.co.uk/bike_pages/beinn29.html&quot;&gt;http://www.islabikes.co.uk/bike_pages/beinn29.html&lt;/a&gt; (Weighing 12.2kg)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm conducting a physics investigation, and for this I need to know the approximate location of the center of mass of the bike, or any similar bike for that matter. (Are there any sources for this?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, before you holler at me about it being impossible to determine, too many factors etc, I just need an approximate value, precision isn't too important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4964" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T01:54:54.710" Title="Approximately where is the center of mass of a mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;physics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14009" CreationDate="2013-01-12T21:06:49.013" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you want the center of gravity of the bike alone (not with a rider), there is a very simple procedure you can perform yourself, as long as you have some bike (you could borrow one):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For simplicity, strap the front wheel to the down tube of the bike, so the handlebars won't turn; You could also strap the brake levers in the &quot;full braking&quot; position;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift the front wheel from the ground, balancing the bike on the back wheel. Lift as much as necessary so the bike keeps almost falling back. Now the vertical line passing through the rear hub is the line where the center of gravity is;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat the procedure with the rear wheel lifted, so that you know the the center of gravity is directly above the front hub;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The approximate center of gravity position is where both lines cross.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T21:06:49.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14009" CreationDate="2013-01-13T01:54:54.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another approach is roughly guestimate the CM, then tie 3 short cords to 3 points each roughly 120 degrees apart in a rough circle.  Tie the other ends of the cords to a ring or whatever and hang so the bike is essentially on its side.  Adjust the 3 cords on the ring -- looser or tighter -- until the bike hangs perfectly level.  The central rope will then be centered over the CM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T01:54:54.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2013-01-13T02:09:08.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem is easily solved. Just buy some pants cuff protectors ( the kind that keep you pant leg from getting into the chain ), get the ones that have reflective material sewn on them and you can just use these around your arm at night. Any light from a cars headlights in either diredction should light up the reflecting material. Probably cost less than $5 if you want a pair. Most of them are either velcro or elastic for a custom fit. They can be used in all seasons, with a jacket or bare arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T02:09:08.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-13T02:31:31.990" Score="3" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to replace rusted/'bent rear wheel with coaster brakes on my 1959 Roadmaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found on Amazon the same size (24 X 2.125) new rear coaster brake wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it fit? What parameters I should check for comparison?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else do I need to know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sincerely,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTS &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5892" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T14:54:29.083" Title="Replacing rear coaster brake wheel on 1959 Roadmaster" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14014" CreationDate="2013-01-13T03:44:58.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you're using a coaster brake, rim diameter is less critical an issue than in most cases. The size 24 x 2.125 is actually a tire size which corresponds to 54-507 in ISO measurements. That means that the bead seat diameter (diameter of the rim) is 507mm and the tire is 54mm wide. If the original wheel is ~24&quot;, it will correspond to BSD sizes between 520mm - 547mm (because there are lots of &quot;24&quot; size tires, read &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;.) The new rim will be smaller...&lt;strong&gt;however&lt;/strong&gt;... with a wider tire, it may make for a close fit. Match the old tire size with the link and you'll have a better idea of the original wheel-tire size as compared with your potential new size. Keep in mind that you can buy rather narrow tires to provide clearance for your fenders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is the Over Locknut Dimension (O.L.D. for short) which is how wide the hub is at the axle nuts (and correspondingly, how wide the frame is.) This is something that you'll need to break out a decent metric ruler to determine. You want to get that dimension close, but if it is off it isn't a big deal. +/- 5mm is an acceptable stretch. Anything more and you may want to consider either finding the correct width hub or &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10837/can-a-relative-beginner-adjust-spacing-on-a-501-cromo-road-frame&quot;&gt;swaging out the seat/chain stays&lt;/a&gt; to accept a wider or smaller hub (steel is a very forgiving frame metal.) Another option is to use a longer axle and spacers in a hub that is too narrow...something that you may want a shop to handle if you've never rebuilt a hub before, especially considering it will alter the chain-line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T03:44:58.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14014" CreationDate="2013-01-13T13:15:33.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much coaster brakes themselves are interchangeable.  There is an arm that comes out of the hub and is attached to the chain stay to counteract the torque of the brake.  Generally the attachment is made with a strap, so a little difference in arm length is not a problem.  (If you have the rare frame where the arm is attached to a tab on the frame, though, you may want to check arm length.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important things are then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sprocket size.  Pretty much all coaster brake chains are the same width/pitch, but the number of teeth on the cog can differ.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The axle diameter.  I think this is pretty standard, but likely there's a slight difference between English and metric dimensioned axles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The axle width, measured between the outside edge of the nuts that fit inside the frame.  Doesn't need to be exact, but within 1/4&quot; or so.  Again, this should be fairly standard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rim diameter/width.  As the other answers note, there's a significant difference between a 2-1/4&quot; rim and a 2.125&quot; rim -- two different systems for sizing rims, and it affects rim diameter more than rim width.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you can find just the rim you can get the existing wheel rebuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-01-13T14:54:29.083" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T14:54:29.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13955" CreationDate="2013-01-13T18:33:08.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely should not be mounting your bike on the rack by the shock- that's just asking for trouble. The adapter that mikes suggested should do the trick for you, but if you want to use this as a reason to get a new bike rack I would suggest you look into a Thule T2 or Yakima's equivalent. I owned a handful of tray mount style hitch racks that were relatively inexpensive before finally purchasing a T2. Now that I've owned it for a while I wish I had have sprung for it in the first place. Incredibly easy to use, very secure, and virtually no restrictions on the type of bike it will accept. Completely worth the extra money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T18:33:08.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2013-01-14T17:27:37.253" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;My regular (commuting) bike is an old Cannondale mountain bike with road slicks. It's great for city riding, but it murders my back, crotch, hands, feet, etc. on long trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a couple years ago I bought a Bacchetta Giro 26 recumbent bike specifically for a 2000+ mile ride. I've used it since for rides of longer than a day. So here's my two cents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comfort: Riding a 'bent consists of sitting in a lawn chair doing leg-presses all day. IMO, no diamond frame bike (DF) will ever come anywhere close to matching a 'bent for comfort. Over the last week of my trip I rode back-to-back-to-back-to-back 110+ mile days with no issues other than some soreness in my knees. Best of all, you can look at the scenery instead of the asphalt, without craning your neck. This is a massive plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety: The bike I bought has 26&quot; wheels front and rear. My head is a few inches lower than on a DF, but I've never had any issues with visibility. I rode through several major metropolitan areas in fairly heavy traffic and never felt unsafe or invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dork factor: Everyone is fascinated by the bike. Everyone. I had a Hell's Angels looking dude shout &quot;nice hog&quot; at me at one point. Lots of people ask if I built it myself. One guy pulled over to take a photo. Every single person who has remarked on the bike has been enthusiastic and friendly, with one (group) exception: spandex-clad road riders, who generally pretend they don't see me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hills: Climbing hills on a 'bent isn't all that tough. It just requires persistence. You won't blast up a hill, but you can climb for hours on end. The biggest negative is that on a steep hill, if you stop for any reason, it can be damn near impossible to get going again. Also, balance becomes an issue at very low speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, 'bents are ideal for touring, so-so for daily utilitarian use, and of course illegal for racing. Of those three uses, touring is the rarest, and it's pretty hard to build a market around something most people don't do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a pity, IMO — 'bents are a lot of fun, but most folks will never know it. But then again, I've got mine and get a lot of use out of it. If other people miss out, that's their problem, not mine. I expect most recumbent riders feel the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5898" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T14:42:31.497" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T14:42:31.497" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14024" CreationDate="2013-01-14T18:03:22.437" Score="3" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've decided what kind of bike I want (light hybrid with straight handlebars),&#xA;but have no idea how to chose a brand/model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;What questions do I ask at the shop?&#xA;Which brands are good?&#xA;Am I paying too much for brand-value?&#xA;Am I paying for things I don't need? (Carbon Fiber fork...)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the things I should look out for in particular?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I find difficult is that they don't let you try out the bike except  in the shop (and without the pedals attatched).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5899" LastEditorUserId="5899" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T18:25:19.623" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T21:06:29.150" Title="Suggestions for buying a bike for commuting" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14021" CreationDate="2013-01-14T19:46:03.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first suggestion I would have for you would be to find a bike shop that accommodates a bike riders needs! Any shop that doesn't allow a decent test ride with one of their bikes, can't be serious about getting your business! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never purchased a car or a bicycle without taking a test drive/ride. You'll find that the fit of your bicycle will be the most important aspect of the purchase for both comfort and safety. You'll spend lots of hours on commuting each year...make them comfortable! Make sure the bike shop will fit you to a bike, not make the bike fit you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really didn't give much information about the commute you will have. For example, what state are you in? Will you be riding seasonal or year round? What types of weather will you likely experience? How long ( distance ) is the commute? Without knowing more information, my answer will be limited to the basics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you'll need to know first off is the type of repairs the bike shop performs. Look at their service area to see if they're well equiped for all repairs. Whatever bike you decide on, the warranty will be imporatant. Your question about value usually comes down to the old saying...&quot;You get what you pay for!&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you must keep your bike while at work may determine how much you spend on a bike. Is the area &quot;safe&quot; for locking up your bike, or is there a chance of theft or vandilism? A $500+ bike could be very tempting for a thief. What type of lock or other security measures can you take with the bike at work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Know the regulations for riding in your area. You'll need lights at night, but how good of a light front and rear will you need for the commute? If you'll be riding daily, fenders should be a priority. There are many things to consider when you commute on a bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps plant some ideas about what you want/need for the commute, and possibly gather more information and update your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorUserId="5863" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T20:25:59.483" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T20:25:59.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7687" CreationDate="2013-01-14T20:38:58.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;About stickers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute writes in an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helmets.org/stickers.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Snell Memorial Foundation has informed us that the hundreds of crashed helmets they examined in a study done in the mid-1990's with Harborview Injury Prevention Center showed no ill effects from any of the stickers that had been applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But duct tape &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; compromise a helmet. Details are in the article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T20:38:58.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14021" CreationDate="2013-01-14T21:06:29.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1091/for-a-long-25mile-each-way-commute-what-kind-of-bike-should-i-look-at&quot;&gt;For a long (25mile each way) commute, what kind of bike should I look at?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2767/what-bikeequipment-for-a-long-daily-urban-commute&quot;&gt;What bike+equipment for a long daily urban commute?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2088/how-do-i-change-a-road-bike-into-a-commuter-bike&quot;&gt;How do I change a road bike into a commuter bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11156/relative-efficiency-of-different-commute-bike-setups&quot;&gt;Relative efficiency of different commute bike setups&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1298/equipping-a-commuter-bike&quot;&gt;Equipping a commuter bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4223/what-is-the-narrowest-tire-you-would-use-for-commuting&quot;&gt;What is the narrowest tire you would use for commuting?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And others)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T21:06:29.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14037" CreationDate="2013-01-14T22:50:42.577" Score="1" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3x9 gearing installed and I've noticed that the chain broke, by failure of master link, twice within 25 km. Interestingly, the failure was perpendicular to the direction of motion:&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WkqZL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain break&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4232" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T03:24:29.100" Title="Snapping master links" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;master-link&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14033" CreationDate="2013-01-14T22:51:28.867" Score="7" ViewCount="2269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have not enough room on my seat post for a saddle bag, rear reflector and a rear light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is if replacing the rear reflector with reflective tape on the saddle bag would be enough to satisfy the law here? The law states: &quot;a red reflector that is clearly visible for at least 50 m from the rear of the bicycle when a vehicle's headlights on low beam shine on it&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: My current rear light is a Lezyne Micro Drive Rear which doesn't act as a reflector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5695" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2019-03-09T10:35:33.903" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T10:35:33.903" Title="Reflective tape instead of rear reflector, in Australia" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;&lt;australia&gt;&lt;night-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14028" CreationDate="2013-01-14T23:03:18.340" Score="4" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have perfectly ordinary standard-pull brake levers on my bike. When the temperature gets below 20F or so, the left-hand one seizes up, not wanting to pull, and not braking well if I force it. Once the temperature warms up a bit, it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diagnosis? Cure? I'm pretty sure the actual brakes are fine, and the cable looks okay too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If there's a duplicate, feel free to kill this one; I looked but didn't find an exact symptom match.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T02:18:11.003" Title="Brake lever seizing up from cold" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14027" CreationDate="2013-01-14T23:39:08.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the brakes are reluctant to move in both directions then it's mostly likely water in the lines. You may be able to get away with bringing the bike inside letting it dry out for a day or two and re-sealing the lines with grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T23:39:08.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14025" CreationDate="2013-01-15T00:28:32.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There were some threads on Internet cycling forums about two years ago regarding Shimano's CN-6700 vs. CN-6701 (the 10 speed Ultegra chains) being a tacit admission that CN-6700-- &lt;a href=&quot;http://cozybeehive.blogspot.com/2010/02/shimano-ultegra-chain-failure.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;which people reported breaking&lt;/a&gt;-- was defective. A search reveals &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/#hl=en&amp;amp;q=cn-6700+snapped&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;several such threads&lt;/a&gt;. Clearly, sometimes a run of components can have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, I don't use the type of master link you've pictured, so I can't answer your question directly from my experience. The top link in your picture does appear to be bent; was that done when you removed it, or when it broke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the master link is a KMC, are you sure it was fully engaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.connexchain.com/en/product/connex-link.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wippermann master links&lt;/a&gt;, and I've never broken one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T03:24:29.100" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T03:24:29.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14035" CreationDate="2013-01-15T00:38:09.333" Score="2" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am riding clipless with the MT43 shoes I bought at my LBS.&#xA;They are great,... when it is not cold outside... and now it is cold outside... and my toes are freezing.&#xA;I was thinking of getting Shimano MW81 Gore-Tex Winter SPD Boots but my LBS does not sell it and is not willing to order (they're promoting their own brand and only sell two Shimano references).&#xA;So I was considering buying online.&#xA;I know Shimano is know to have &quot;funny&quot; sizing, and that one usually needs one size or two over one's usual size.&#xA;The thing is, my MT43s fit perfectly (tried 4 different sizes at the LBS) and I ended up with EU 46 size while I usually wear for city and sports shoes 46 to 48 depending on the brand which feels weird since Shimano shoes usually require one size over the usual...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now for my upcoming MW81: can I rely on my MT43 experience and get the same size? or should I get one size higher? (or should I order both and return the one that does not fit... but that wold cost me some extra postage)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the 46-48 non-Shimano-shoe-size I had mentionned earlier was already true over a year ago and since then, I lost 80 pounds and when I look at my feet, they do look a little skinnier (I can now see some veins and bones which was not the case before), can this mean that I might have dropped to 45 for usual urban and 46 for Shimano? I mean my old urban shoes still fit and I have not felt much of a difference but I had to toss that idea in the pool...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T17:17:18.710" Title="Shimano shoe size" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-15T00:59:56.093" Score="6" ViewCount="1469" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kickstands are always on the left, likely because gears occupy the righthand side.  Has anyone had success with installing a kickstand on the right side? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After using my left-side pannier routinely for six years, I've noticed that my left leg might be a bit stronger (or at the very least, provides better balance in yoga).  To switch it up, I now load up the right pannier.  But without the kickstand to provide counter-balance, my bike inevitably topples over at every stop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a 1970s Schwinn Le Tour with a hefty touring rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4492" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T02:02:01.370" Title="Can you put a kickstand on the righthand side?" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;kickstand&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14026" CreationDate="2013-01-15T01:16:02.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading the link and interpetting it in the strictest sense I would say no. My reasoning is that the law states &quot;a reflector&quot; that is clearly visible. It does not say a reflective material that is clearly visible. My other thought is that since reflective tape is cheaper and easier to install, if bike manufacturers could get away with reflective tape they would have used it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T01:16:02.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14026" CreationDate="2013-01-15T01:23:46.430" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I called Queensland Transport, who put me through to main roads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then called main roads back (since the first call got disconnected). They told me to call my local main roads office, as their central number doesn't answer questions about compliance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I called the local main roads office. The inspector there told me this was an issue of legislation under the traffic act, and hence I had to call the Police instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I called the police central number; they told me I needed to call the local Police Traffic Branch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I spoke to a very nice lad at the traffic branch, and asked him about this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said that the only time you need the reflector is at night, and as such, if you instead have a front and rear taillight, and they're both turned on, then you're compliant. You will not be &quot;pulled over&quot; for not having a reflector on during the daytime when you are perfectly visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His thoughts on the tape were that it sounded good - anything that makes you more visible is a bonus - but it wouldn't be any &quot;more compliant&quot; than the light itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5900" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T01:23:46.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14031" CreationDate="2013-01-15T01:55:27.753" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should look into getting a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#hl=en&amp;amp;tbo=d&amp;amp;sclient=psy-ab&amp;amp;q=folding+double+kick+stand&amp;amp;oq=folding+double+kick+stand&amp;amp;fp=b44db6a72e89b15f&quot;&gt;folding double kickstand.&lt;/a&gt; They're great for loaded bikes. Both legs fold off to the left side, but when you kick it down one leg supports each side so the bike stays perfectly upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T02:02:01.370" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T02:02:01.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14030" CreationDate="2013-01-15T02:10:00.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll should be fine ordering the same size as what you currently have. Just order one pair and if they don't fit to your liking send them back. You'll probably get it right the first time, but if not some online shops offer free return shipping (Amazon?). You have a better than 50/50 chance of saving yourself the hassle of dealing with a return if you order just one pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T02:10:00.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14027" CreationDate="2013-01-15T02:18:11.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be water freezing inside the housing, but don't forget that the viscosity of any lubricant is going to increase as the temperature decreases so that could be your problem as well. If you do re-lubricate your cable, be sure to use as light of a lube as possible. If that doesn't work, try replacing the cable and housing. If you're running v-brakes, be sure that the little rubber boot is staying seated against the end of the brake noodle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T02:18:11.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14025" CreationDate="2013-01-15T02:22:26.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the fact that the outer plates are deformed in the same direction, I believe you're probably cranking on the pedals way too hard when you're shifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you waiting too long to downshift in the front when starting up an incline? Are you standing while shifting? Are your forcing the front derailleur by putting excessive pressure on the shift lever? Any one of these factors are going to increase your chances of busting a chain. The bigger person you are weight wise, the more you have to be careful of these things, although you can weigh under a buck and still trash chains if you don't give them some love. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that when shifting you're putting side load on the chain links and really torquing them in a way they don't appreciate. You need to let off a little when you make any shift, up or down, front or rear. Beyond saving your chain from breakage, it will also save your drivetrain from premature and excessive wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T04:01:35.327" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T04:01:35.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13598" CreationDate="2013-01-15T04:13:09.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're better off getting on the phone to FSA as opposed to asking your questions here. If it's a common problem they'll be the ones to know and they'll likely be eager to set it right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can tell you that I've had no such problems with my Gossamer cranks in many years of ownership. If I were to speculate I would say that that is a defect and if the cranks aren't ancient (which they don't appear to be given your BB style) the manufacturer may well cover it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T04:13:09.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13931" CreationDate="2013-01-15T12:34:03.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered using old school dynamo and halogen lights? Virtually hassle free, no more forgetting to charge your batteries or bring the headlight with you. Modern hub dynamos are pretty efficient as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T12:34:03.950" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5119" CreationDate="2013-01-15T17:23:13.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that comes to mind is control and traction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never seen an off-road recumbent.  I am not sure why this is.  I have found riding in the winter is a lot like riding off-road.  I suspect that there is a reason for this although I am not sure what it is.  Just the fact that there are no off road recumbents makes me suspicious of using them as winter machines.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue would be width.  In the winter roads are already significantly narrower.  Often I take the lane but I like to have the option not to.  On a recumbent, narrower winter roads may make passing difficult.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T21:58:08.880" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T21:58:08.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2013-01-15T19:23:28.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do we rarely see recumbents and almost never see velomobiles?&#xA;Recumbents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Cost. Mine cost £2.5k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Hostile road environment. &#xA;Some people throw things at people on a recumbent, (in my case, it was a telephone directory). I have been threatened with being run-over. I also experienced what I suspect was deliberate aggression, I was left-hooked by a BMW driver, luckily I it was dry and my over-sized disk brakes stopped me in-time. The driver turned into a cul-de-sac. I turned round to discuss his dangerous driving, meanwhile he was sitting in his BMW, parked-up with the 1,00 yard stare. As I approached he drove off at speed. Clearly, his stupid-aggressive manoeuvre wasn't because he was going somewhere. I can only imagine that since there had been no previous interaction, that his aggressive and dangerous act was a deliberate attempt to frighten, injure or kill me, or a response to my unusual bike.&#xA;My recumbent is quite high, but I would feel vulnerable on a low-racer, because being so low is not fun in traffic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) Drivers and Pedestrians&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the occasional stupid driver intent on 'educating' me with their ignorance of taxation and the Highway Code, I rarely get any comments when cycling on my 'normal bikes'. Ride a recumbent and one will trigger a relative blizzard of opinions. Some undoubtedly positive, these will be people who own or are interested in recumbents. Others very ill-informed, stupid and deeply negative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d) Security. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recumbents can be difficult to secure, (depends upon frame design). Needs an insurance approved lock, or preferably, more than one.&#xA;Bike insurance is very expensive, typically 10% of the bike cost.&#xA;A GPS tracker and bike registration is a good idea, if not essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e) Recumbents are usually longer and heavier than normal bicycles. This and the odd shape can present problems with bicycle infrastructure, which seems deliberately designed to thwart even a bicycle with panniers. Transportation by train can be awkward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;f) Storage heavy and large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;g) Horses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, my recumbent scares horses witless. I mean rearing-up, staring eyes, the works. It's not a reason not to buy a recumbent, but if you do, be extremely careful around horses. My other bicycles have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Velomobiles&#xA;I am interested in velomobiles, but I foresee that the associated problems are likely to be similar to recumbents, but rather worse. I suspect that much cycling infrastructure is impassable, due to increased width and greater length. Train transport is probably not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5911" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T19:23:28.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2656" CreationDate="2013-01-15T19:26:28.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cut up some egg crate foam and used it to line a cardboard box that has a large 6 inch wide slit in it for my tire and just put the box over my trainer. This worked extremely well, you just have to be sure to secure everything well so that nothing gets in the way of the trainer and tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get thick styrofoam insulation sheets at Home Depot and fashion a box with appropriate slots for wheel and trainer stand.  There is special glue to glue the joints of the box together.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-27T13:15:37.510" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T13:15:37.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14026" CreationDate="2013-01-15T21:58:24.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be possible to use some red reflective spray paint on the rear of your Topeak Aero Wedge Pack. If you don't wish to spray the Wedge Pack itself, you could spray some cloth and then sew it to your Wedge Pack using some heavy duty thread. Just a few stitches at each corner should secure the material.  This area would likely be larger than the normal sized plastic reflector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nitize also makes a plastic red light that has heavy duty wire like twist ties to secure it on unusual surfaces. I've seen them at Walmart in the bike department. The lamp can be a steady light or a flashing light. You may be able to attach something like this to the seat rails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oneforceaustralia.com.au/products/nite-lites-reflective-paint/dupli-color%C2%AE-nite-lites%E2%84%A2-clear-spray-nl100/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.oneforceaustralia.com.au&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dupli-Color® Nite Lites™ is a highly reflective coating that provides a custom look in dark conditions. This reflective coating is highly visible when exposed to light in dark conditions, making it ideal for vehicle customisation or for reflective safety applications. Nite Lites is ideal for spraying bumpers, helmets, children's bikes, car door jambs, fence posts, or any other metal wood, or plastic surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video attempting to show the reflective spray paint on a kids bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/qXIXKz6Ex2g?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-06-29T21:01:12.740" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T21:01:12.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14053" CreationDate="2013-01-16T01:45:02.857" Score="12" ViewCount="8593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not very familiar with all the different component groups available and wondered if there's a chart that ranks their quality (or price).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd know that Shimano 105 is the same level as SRAM Apex (just and example, I don't know).  So I can get it in my head a general idea of where these component sets stack up against each other so when I look at bikes I'll know (generally) the quality of the components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely there's a list somewhere out there, but I can't find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T11:50:53.497" Title="Chart for bicycle component quality?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14072" CreationDate="2013-01-16T05:24:18.000" Score="1" ViewCount="642" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Background&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy some used bike parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to shop online. I'm not very good at bike repair. I want to ask the seller if the part is the right shape and size to fit my bike. If they say &quot;no&quot;, then I'll know not to waste my money and time buying it and trying to install it. If they say &quot;yes&quot;, and it turns out not to fit, then I can get a refund without paying for return shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that I can definitely buy used parts from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_cooperative&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike co-op&lt;/a&gt;. In fact, because co-ops disassemble so many bikes, they tend to have a better selection of used parts than most bricks-and-mortar vendors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I live in the suburbs. I'd rather not schlep downtown to get to a co-op.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two different individuals in my neighborhood who fix bikes in their backyards and sell them out in front of their homes. Perhaps they'll have the parts I need. But perhaps not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible alternative for me would be to go to a local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;My question&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the general rule? Do bike shops that sell used bicycles normally also sell used parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T04:42:50.167" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T07:22:23.493" Title="Do shops that sell used bikes normally also sell used parts?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="143" CreationDate="2013-01-16T07:04:09.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Elite athlete road bikes do not have suspension but top competition trail bikes do--that should tell you something. Suspension is for giving the best possible contact with the road and therefore safety and rider comfort but it comes at the price of weight and energy waste as you pump away on the pedals. &#xA;A rocky downhill route--use a bike with suspension; a hilly but smooth road course--grab that bike without the suspension. My regular route is a combination of both: I bushbash for short sections through sand, mud and tree roots but most of the way is smooth tar with scream descents and hard climbs, thus I have a hybrid with a suspension lock on the front forks.  While the road bikers get away from me on the smooth, I quickly overtake them on the rough sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5913" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T07:04:09.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14049" CreationDate="2013-01-16T07:18:27.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of comparisons in the web, however they tend to get outdated or vanish from time to time, so I won't recommend or link any particular one here. Instead use your favourite search engine with terms like &quot;bicycle/road bike/mountain bike groupset comparison&quot; or the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can also do a quick check yourself: Choose a component that is usually part of all groups (a derailleur for example), search your favourite online bike shop for it and note the price for the parts from different groups. This should scale fairly well to the whole component group and give you a rough estimate on how they are positioned towards each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T11:50:53.497" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T11:50:53.497" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14069" CreationDate="2013-01-16T11:28:59.697" Score="17" ViewCount="18948" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a permanently mounted basket in front of the handlebars (because I have a child seat on the rack in the back). I also have a headlight on the handlebars (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/HL-EL135/&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, if anyone cares). If the basket is empty, it is somewhat visible, through the mesh that basket is made of. However, if I put anything in the basket, the headlight is useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that I also have a dynamo powered headlight below the basket, but I turn it on only when it's really dark, as the bottle dynamo noticeably slows down the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas where to move the headlight from the handlebars? To the fork perhaps? That can be a problem as it would point a bit upwards then, and also would be partially obscured by the wheel itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastEditorUserId="5316" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T11:34:54.880" LastActivityDate="2020-07-26T11:38:49.297" Title="Where to mount a headlight if the handlebar is obscured by a basket" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;visibility&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14055" CreationDate="2013-01-16T11:42:35.177" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Helmet lights are good.  Usually in addition to one on the handlebars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The pro&lt;/strong&gt; of the helmet light is that you can light up things that are not directly infront of you.  The pro of having an additional light is that it increases the chance of being seen and adds extra illumination for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The con&lt;/strong&gt; is that if you are looking to the side and a car is coming from the front they will not see the light shining at them, so you should not have a helmet light as your only light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastEditorUserId="5247" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T12:12:50.870" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T12:12:50.870" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14055" CreationDate="2013-01-16T12:41:07.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious places are on the basket, on the fork crown, or on the fork itself, although they may require mounting hardware or a different light altogether. Reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.asp&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; may get you some ideas. Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reelight.com/&quot;&gt;Reelight&lt;/a&gt; line-up may also spark your imagination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could also go with unconventional solutions like &lt;a href=&quot;http://revolights.com/&quot;&gt;Revolights&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T12:41:07.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14055" CreationDate="2013-01-16T12:42:17.303" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various extension mounts you can buy or build to reposition lights and other handlebar-mount items.  I have a purchased unit that can be adjusted maybe 2&quot; higher than the bar, and which can mount on either the bar or the stem.  You can also craft something with a short piece of plastic pipe, a few screws and brackets, and some cleverness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T12:42:17.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14073" CreationDate="2013-01-16T13:29:08.017" Score="49" ViewCount="54549" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have there been done any scientific studies that proves that clipless pedals actually improve pedaling efficiency etc. over flat pedals? Clipless pedal enthusiasts are quick to say that you must use clipless pedals to improve efficiency when cycling, but I have never seen this being backed up by any scientific sources actually proving this claimed efficiency boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T19:46:32.577" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T20:25:22.753" Title="Are there any scientific studies proving the benefits of clipless pedal systems?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14059" CreationDate="2013-01-16T15:56:46.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a study per se, but the Wattbike gym machine has a useful power output meter which shows the power being applied by each leg (&lt;a href=&quot;http://wattbike.com/uk/guide/cycling_tests/pedalling_technique_test/what_the_polar_view_shapes_mean&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;explained in more detail on their website&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic premise is that by smoothing out the push and the pull you can see a visible effect on the power curve on the display. The real key (from personal anecdotal experience) is that clipless pedals assist in these actions because the pull isn't just employing a different set of muscles in the leg and adding more power (although it is doing that), you're also reducing the total down time in each cycle. If you're just pushing, there's going to be periods where either neither is pushing and thus the bike/revolving weight is decelerating or even where both are pushing and counteracting each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedals aren't going to assist in the latter case, but they will in the former. So by pulling you're helping to compensate for the lag in the cycle until the other leg starts pushing and we all know that maintaining a speed is generally easier than accelerating to that speed. So if you've got even 5-10 degrees (or more) of arc in every cycle where neither foot is pushing (see the wattbike examples of a bad transition, the curve that looks like a figure-of-eight) then you're having to work to regain the previous power. While if you're managing the leg-to-leg transition, the effort doesn't drop off so much (resulting in a 'peanut' curve) and you're not losing as much power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesplit.com/bsa4.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;suggested here&lt;/a&gt;, the clip is allowing you to attach at a better point on the base of foot, rather than on the ball of the foot which is demanded by your not being attached. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T15:56:46.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14030" CreationDate="2013-01-16T17:17:18.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few forum searches gave me the recommendation to purchase the same shimano MW-81 shoes one (european) size larger than my regular shoes. I think that was a good choice, especially since I tend to wear thicker socks with them in cold weather.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T17:17:18.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14050" CreationDate="2013-01-16T18:49:21.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They likely have &quot;extra&quot; bike parts around that are scavenged from bikes that were unrepariable, just be sure you know what your getting. There likely isn't any warranty included on used equipment, so if it was a &quot;distressed&quot; part that finally breaks a week after you've been using it, you be replacing it again. If you trust the bike shop and it is a reputable store that's been around for awhile, you should be fine. Nothing wrong with used parts, just so it fits and works correctly for its intended design, and doesn't appear to have been abused or been on a bike that was not maintained or has been wrecked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T18:49:21.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14055" CreationDate="2013-01-16T19:00:34.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a rather quick solution and possible permanent fix if the look suits you, you could get a piece of plastic PVC pipe just long enough and the approximate diameter of your handlebars, and just affix the plastic PVC pipe to the front of the basket, and mount the light on the PVC tube. If the basket is the wire type, you could slot the bottom of the pipe an it would slip right over the top of the basket and then the clamp for the light could run through the wire and around the light to secure it. This same thing could likely be accomplished with other types of baskets as long as there was a good support at the top of the basket. Just a thought for a quick and cheap possibility using the same light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T19:00:34.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14059" CreationDate="2013-01-16T20:26:32.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Foot retention, in some form, has been around since the dawn of cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple reasons for it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Having a foot slip off the pedal during a hard effort is dangerous (especially on fixed gear bikes, but also during a race in close quarters). This isn't a risk at slow speeds, but at high cadences, it can be hard to stay on pedals without retention.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you ride a lot, your pedal stroke will get more efficient just like a runner becomes more efficient with running. What this means on the bike is that your feet are not resisting each other on the upstrokes and wasting energy. It also means that on the upstroke your foot is applying little-to-no force on the pedal and it can easily shift position if it is not retained by clipless pedals or straps. &lt;strong&gt;If your foot is not in the right position, your stroke is less efficient and there is the danger of coming off the pedal during an exertion&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if you want scientific evidence for foot-retention, all you need to do is find evidence for having the foot placed properly on the pedal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T20:26:32.317" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14059" CreationDate="2013-01-16T21:01:34.807" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The case for/against clipless, or even straps, is sort of summed up in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rivbike.com/pages/the-shoes-ruse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this piece&lt;/a&gt; from the Rivendell Bicycles website. They mention studies, albeit without citing the exact source, that actually pulling up on the pedal is extremely unlikely, except maybe on short uphill or sprint bursts, and so being attached to the pedal is far from being a must. And they suggest, without supporting evidence, that it may actually make you a better cyclist, because without attachment your legs have to learn to go in circles, and not simply be taken along for the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the issue with positioning your foot on the pedal: all that careful messing around with the cleats so that the ball of the foot is exactly over the pedal axle. But then there is that other blog from Joe Friel, who is an evidence nut, suggesting that there is no proper support for that being best, and that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2007/01/cleat-position.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;it may be more efficient to put your cleat under the arch&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joe's blog, together with the (again, inadequately referenced) &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=3fk9fMS7Gk4C&amp;amp;pg=PA249&amp;amp;dq=had%20forgotten%20to%20put%20his%20bike%20shoes%20in%20his%20transition%20bag&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=bBP3UOHVBI389gSAo4C4Bg&amp;amp;ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=had%20forgotten%20to%20put%20his%20bike%20shoes%20in%20his%20transition%20bag&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;story of the Japanese competitor in Ironman New Zealand that forgot to put his shoes in the transition bag, and went to a bike personal best riding barefoot on clipless pedals&lt;/a&gt;, have really changed my outlook on the need for attachment to the pedals. I ride with clips on my fixie, but am more and more considering changing to plain pedals and see where that takes me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastEditorUserId="37950" LastEditDate="2018-05-26T17:00:30.037" LastActivityDate="2018-05-26T17:00:30.037" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14050" CreationDate="2013-01-16T23:53:34.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer: You might not find what you are looking for at a shop. I would seriously suggest checking online. Three reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are hundreds of models/sizes/configurations of bike parts. The part(s) that you are looking for will need to match the parts/bike you already have. The likelihood that your local bike shop has the exact part you need is pretty low.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bike parts are a lot like cars. They depreciate pretty quickly. If a bike store is going to stock parts, they want to stock new stuff that will make them more profit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bikes are pretty self service. There are a lot of individual people capable of replacing their own parts. That means there are a lot of people with spare used parts for sale online (e.g. craigslist).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastEditorUserId="5211" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T21:17:15.917" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T21:17:15.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14059" CreationDate="2013-01-17T00:56:51.427" Score="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edb.utexas.edu/coyle/pdf%20library/%2843%29%20Kautz,%20Feltner,%20Coyle,%20Baylor,%20pedaling%20technique%20of%20elite%20endurance%20cyclists,%20changes%20with%20increasing%20workload%20at%20constant%20cadence,%20Intl%20J%20of%20Sport%20Biomechanics,%207,%2029-53,%201991.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Pedaling Technique of Elite Endurance Cyclists: Changes With Increasing Workload at Constant Cadence&lt;/a&gt; was published in the &lt;em&gt;International Journal of Sport Biometrics&lt;/em&gt; 7:29-53, 1991. However, it seems to come to the conclusion that they don't really make any difference as far as pedaling efficiency goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;...while torque during the upstroke did reduce the total positive work required during the downstroke, it did not contribute significantly to the external work done because 98.6% and 96.3% of the total work done at the low and high workloads, respectively, was done during the downstroke.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is echoed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edb.utexas.edu/coyle/pdf%20library/%2840%29%20Coyle,%20Feltner%20et%20al,%20Physiological%20and%20biochemical%20determinants%20of%20elite%20endurance%20cycling%20performance,%20Med%20and%20Sci%20in%20Sports%20and%20Exercise,%2023,%2093-107,%201991.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Physiological and biochemical determinants of elite&#xA;endurance cycling performance&lt;/a&gt; published in the Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise 23:93-107, 1991. There are numerous graphs showing that pedal force is only exerted between the top and bottom of the downstroke, represented by a very sharp parabola spiking at 90 degrees from vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I think it's obvious to anyone who has ever done any particularly technical riding with and without clipless pedals that clipless pedals significantly improve the handling of a bicycle. A fact which is probably more difficult to verify through scientific studies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2021-04-27T17:07:03.543" LastActivityDate="2021-04-27T17:07:03.543" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2535" CreationDate="2013-01-17T02:19:52.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to buy locally, and you're looking for uncommon parts or an uncommon bicycle, try a Google web search. It can take you to a site that has what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just today, I did a Google search for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=toronto+used+|+second-hand+|+preowned+|+pre-owned+folding+bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;toronto used | second-hand | preowned | pre-owned folding bike&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. And indeed, the first Google hit took me to a local classifieds site where someone currently has a used folding bike for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google knows everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T03:55:02.443" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T03:55:02.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14087" CreationDate="2013-01-17T13:35:48.247" Score="5" ViewCount="4347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 195cm and 80kg. For as long as I can remember, I haven't been able to sit on my sit bones comfortably. In hard wooden chairs I slouch or lean far forwards. Plastic seats, such as on a metro, are also quite uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often struggle with soreness after riding. My skin looks fine down there, but I get a tremendous amount of tissue soreness in the vicinity of each tuberosity. I do wear cycling shorts but not bib-shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just occurred to me yesterday evening as I was sitting on the metro and realized that yes, my butt hurts if I sit up properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any hope for skinny people like me? Is the solution simply ride more? (increase muscle tone, develop awesome butt-calluses?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious to hear solutions from other diminutive derriere dudes and dudettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4005" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T02:40:06.817" Title="I can't sit on my sit bones" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14084" CreationDate="2013-01-17T15:11:37.247" Score="4" ViewCount="2863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked an &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13685/upgrading-wheels-on-a-vintage-peugeot-frame&quot;&gt;earlier question&lt;/a&gt; regarding putting modern road wheels on my old steel frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After clarifying a few things the main issue to me is the number of gears on the freehub. (The freehub I'm considering takes an 8/9 speed and has a Shimano fitting). My bicycle is currently a 7-speed and uses a freewheel rather than a freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think I have 2 options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put an 8-speed cassette on the new wheel and increase the number of gears on my bike. Issues: I assume an 8-speed uses a narrower chain; will my front chainring work with it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-cs-hg-50-cassette-7-speed/aid:414549/?origin=pla&amp;amp;kw=&amp;amp;gclid=CIiLuvrpprQCFXHLtAod3jQAXQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7-speed cassette&lt;/a&gt; which says it can work on an 8/9-speed hub with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-8-speed-intermediate-ring-3-mm/aid:45835&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;set&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-intermediate-ring-1-mm-steel/aid:44019&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spacer rings&lt;/a&gt;. Questions: how do I use the spacer rings? Do I need only one of each for the whole cassette of one for each sprocket? Will this allow the slightly wider chain I currently use on the 7-speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which option would be the better choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few points to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters are friction, so no need to consider indexing but I am unsure whether they have the range for an 8-speed (but with a narrower chain maybe the range is the same, just with smaller movements between gears)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My deraileur is actually a modern Shimano 8/9 speed already (as the old one broke). I have adjusted it to suit my 7-speed with the limiter screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T20:39:10.027" Title="Mounting a 7-Speed Cassette on an 8/9 speed hub" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14079" CreationDate="2013-01-17T16:04:22.053" Score="5" ViewCount="737" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if using drop-downs on a fixie every becomes problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought a rather heavy drop down bar set; I go back in forth between single speed and fixed. I love riding with them on single speed and find it awesome using the drops on straight aways, and just riding the tops when I have to brake a lot in traffic in such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't flipped to fixed wheel within them yet; I'm wondering if it's a good idea to ride / commute in fixed with this handlebar set. Just curious on thoughts. Am I setting myself up for some somersaults on brake, haha.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm NYC; and commute around 18 miles a day round trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4386" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T06:01:34.370" Title="Drop-Downs on Fixie" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14076" CreationDate="2013-01-17T16:07:57.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also use friction shifters, and recently put a 10 speed cassette onto my freehub - previously I had a seven. I put a 10 speed chain on as the chain walls are narrower. I have not yet changed the front chainrings, which are &quot;eight speed&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case put on a chain to match your cassette. Seven speed cassettes usually have a spacer on the wheel side when used on a larger freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's always advisable to change the chain when you change the cassette anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T16:07:57.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14077" CreationDate="2013-01-17T16:37:54.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute 12 miles a day to work on a track bike with drops and have never had a problem. The real advice is: if they work for you, they work. If you find it uncomfortable or inefficient, switch. Get your wheel flipped and enjoy the ride!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a sidenote, I'd recommend keeping both your brakes on. Otherwise, you could end up somersaulting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5924" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T16:37:54.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14075" CreationDate="2013-01-17T16:43:30.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may also want to look into getting some thicker padded cycling pants. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00064KA1Y&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; has some decent padded pants that may give you a bit more protection when riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may also sound stupid, but have you fit yourself on your bike? Even slight adjustments up/down and forward/back on your seat of handlebars can totally change the way yours arms and butt feel while riding. It could take several tries before you dial it in, but it's definitely worth the shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5924" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T16:43:30.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14083" CreationDate="2013-01-17T19:16:28.463" Score="6" ViewCount="1493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen more and more reference to the 650b (27.5&quot;) mtb wheel size. Whilst I don't see any need for a new standard, does anyone know of any benefit to have a 27.5&quot; wheel over a 26&quot; or 29&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I understand there are currently 650b specific frames and wheels I haven't seen forks yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also can someone please make a 650b tag, I don't have the rep yet. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T20:37:52.380" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T17:12:33.380" Title="Is 650b a better platform than 26&quot; or 29&quot;?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;650b&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14082" CreationDate="2013-01-17T19:37:50.593" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to take a look a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2681/29-wheels-what-advantage-do-they-provide-over-smaller-wheels&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;  which discusses the advantages of 29&quot; over 26&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;650b (or 27.5&quot;) falls somewhere in the middle and therefore performance characteristics will be somewhere in the middle of the two. For instance, 650b would be faster than 26&quot; but slower than 29&quot; at same chainring/cog. It would also roll over obstacles easier than a 26&quot; but not as well as a 29&quot;.  Also, the weight would be somewhere in the middle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on what type of riding you are doing to determine which is the &quot;better&quot; platform.  Also, you should consider how easy it is to find parts in your area for a particular wheel.  Since 650b is only starting to gain popularity, it might be difficult for you to find the tires you want, or to find replacement tubes at your local bike store. Also, I'm pretty sure you have to have a completely different frame for all 3 options, as tires aren't really interchangeable at that large of a difference.  You could possibly put smaller tires on the frame than it is designed for, if you had disc brakes, but it might look odd, and might have weird handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T19:43:05.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14076" CreationDate="2013-01-17T20:47:29.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have friction shifters and an 8/9 speed derailleur, you should be able to pop a 9 speed cassette on the back and use the full range.  You'll have to re-adjust your limit screws of course. Worst case, if that doesn't work, you may be able to remove one of the small cogs and space it out to use only 8 speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The font chainrings will also likely be fine, usually you can go up/down one size without issue for front chainrings. Since your front chainring is designed for 8-speed, it will probably work fine with a 9-speed chain. I regularly use a 9-speed chainring in front with an otherwise all 10-speed setup without issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T20:47:29.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2013-01-17T22:49:41.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been running disks on my summer bike and rims on the winter bike for the last two years.  Here is why: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any bike ridden in the winter will be destroyed by salt in 2 seasons.&lt;/strong&gt;  (On my second winter  bike right now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without question disk brakes will probably work better however I have had good luck with rim brakes, specificity with vbrakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion the best bet is to use rim brakes and (with all the money you will save) get a good set of tires, fenders, clear downhill goggles and something sweet for the summer bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T17:35:35.920" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T17:35:35.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14082" CreationDate="2013-01-17T22:57:48.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went from a 26 to a 29, you can go faster and the is more efficient, your wheel takes longer to turn the bigger it is making you produce less work. I would go with the 29, I love mine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5883" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T22:57:48.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14075" CreationDate="2013-01-18T02:40:06.817" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is hope for skinny people like us.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Please keep in mind that sitting on a saddle for miles/hours on end is never going to be totally comfortable. I'm sure I will get flamed for this but I'll go ahead and state it- there is no such thing as a comfortable saddle. Saddle choice is a matter of mitigating discomfort, not enhancing comfort. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The two most personal choices people make beyond the bike they ride are shoes and saddles. These two items run neck and neck in terms of personal  the preference is. What works for one person may be an instrument of torture for the next and vice versa. Helmets are a not-so-distant third.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What you need to do is try different saddles. Keep trying different saddles until you find one that you deem bearable. Give them time. Someone once told me that &quot;you don't break the saddle in, the saddle breaks you in,&quot; and that holds true for pretty much everything with the exception of a certain brand of English fame known for their leather saddles. Unless the saddle is excruciating to sit on for the first short ride, give it a couple weeks of regular riding or a month or so of sporadic riding before you conclude that it's not right for you. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This process can be expensive.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Road saddles are much more difficult than mountain bike saddles because you spend more time on them and move around on them less frequently. I've been riding regularly for many years now. I still haven't found a road saddle that I'm happy with. I have the same mountain bike saddle on every other bike I own &lt;em&gt;except&lt;/em&gt; my road bike.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer your ride and the harder your ride, the more uncomfortable you will become regardless of your saddle choice.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;More padding &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; equal more comfort. Do not forget that. That goes not only for saddles but for shorts as well- and everything else involved in a contact point with your body for that matter. Just because something costs more does not mean that it will be more comfortable- same rules apply here as well.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't underestimate the value of a good pair of shorts. You probably shouldn't pay less than $60 for a pair and you should do your homework on what makes/models rate well and which dont. There is some personal preference involved with shorts but it's not to the same degree as with saddles. Typically if they rate high you will be happy with them. If they don't you might be better off sticking cardboard down your shorts (I've owned a pair of shorts like this that weren't that cheap). Bad shorts can make a good saddle feel more uncomfortable to a degree, but the best pair of shorts cannot make a saddle that does not fit you comfortable.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To close, I will reiterate that saddles are not very comfortable to begin with. What you're trying to do is find one that limits how uncomfortable you become as your ride progresses. Try enough different ones and eventually you will find one that works.&lt;br&gt; Best of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T02:40:06.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14077" CreationDate="2013-01-18T06:01:34.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute on a fixie with drop bars ( just like klonesy ), and I find that it's actually easier to shift your weight around than with just a flat bar, and easier to brake harder and prevent said somersaults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T06:01:34.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14082" CreationDate="2013-01-18T08:17:15.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pinkbike recently did a little &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/26-vs-275-vs-29-Wheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;opinion piece&lt;/a&gt; it.  To summarise they thought 29ers were better for open, fast XC; whilst the 26&quot; dominated in downhill, technical sections.  650b (27.5&quot;) were considered to be poor in either domain, and not particularly liked by any of the 3 testers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But remember it's all opinion and it really depends on what you do with a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T08:17:15.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14082" CreationDate="2013-01-18T10:01:45.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you tagged your question as &quot;mountain bike&quot;, but there is also some interest in 650b for road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jan Heine of Bicycling Quarterly is keen on &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/02/01/a-journey-of-discovery-part-3-wide-650b-tires/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wide 650b tyres for comfort without loss of speed&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...we chose 650B because it offers the best handling with wide&#xA;  tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other reason you'd want 650b on a road bike is if you're a smaller rider (say 5ft 5in or less), or you're keen on very low trail. In these situations, slightly smaller wheels fit a smaller frame better, when 700C wheels might result in toe-overlap or uncomfortable geometries. The details are explained &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rodbikes.com/articles/700-compromises.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that 650b tyres are harder to find, especially for road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T10:01:45.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14092" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-01-18T13:06:23.860" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T13:06:23.860" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T13:06:23.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14093" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-01-18T13:06:23.860" Score="0" Body="Everything relating to the 650B (584mm ISO rim-diameter) wheelsize, whether on mountain or road bikes." OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T13:29:49.910" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T13:29:49.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2013-01-18T14:23:52.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two additional tips: in the winter, I switch to a snowboarding helmet, which is designed to be warmer, and has ear flaps. I also add goggles (in addition to a balaclava) to shield my eyes. And when it's cold but &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; snowing, I prefer to &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; use a shell -- it makes it easier to stay warm but also dry if I'm well-insulated but the air still penetrates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1642" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T14:23:52.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2013-01-18T17:50:59.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go klunking all winter with coaster brakes, they shouldn't be affected by the weather. You can even use them in tandem with rim brakes. Whether you are going to want to use them in the conditions you ride in, that's a different story. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T17:50:59.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2013-01-18T19:53:30.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to all other excellent advices, I would add suggestion that prior to drive you properly warm up, especially your back. If you are not experienced when your bike starts to slip or bounce (which will happen), your body will react with very fast torso movements while trying to keep balance. If you are not warmed up, this could hurt you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also collected some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cloud208.com/blogica/Enjoying+bicycle+ride+on+snow,+for+causal+commuteruntitled&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;driving tips for first timers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T19:53:30.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13855" CreationDate="2013-01-18T21:08:30.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought of the mini-velos immediately as well. BikesDirect has some Mercier minis that seem affordable, but they're U.S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/nano.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/nano.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read a review of the Soma mini awhile back that called it &quot;a lot of fun while being surprisingly easy to live with.&quot; Not sure if the cheaper minis will deliver the same sort of ride at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few Alton minis that are even cheaper than those Merciers on Amazon, but again, it's the U.S. site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a bikeforums thread comparing the Merciers to the Somas. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-823750.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-823750.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T21:08:30.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-19T06:30:00.640" Score="2" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to travel with my full suspension 26er MTB. It seems like I should be able to pack it pretty small since the largest part of a road bike is usually the frame itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can unbolt the frame into two pieces, I feel it would take up no more room than the wheels would (which are small, being a 26er).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the smallest bike box I can get for traveling with this bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5921" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T15:04:54.820" Title="What's the smallest travel case for a full suspension 26er?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14098" CreationDate="2013-01-19T15:04:54.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty hard to recommend a size without knowing the details about your frame, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ideas for shipping and sizes you might stop at your local bike shop and check out the boxes the manufacturer uses to ship the bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3015" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T15:04:54.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14104" CreationDate="2013-01-19T19:07:12.100" Score="1" ViewCount="1255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/touring/520/520/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek 520&lt;/a&gt; with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/768569/tubus-tara-front-bike-rack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tubus Tara&lt;/a&gt; rack on the front and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/tubus_racks.asp#Cargo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tubus Cargo&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the newer Evo model) rack on the rear. I'm thinking about trading in the 520 for a 29er with disc brakes, probably a &lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/bikes/fargo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Salsa Fargo&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess my question is two parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would disc brakes interfere with mounting the racks? And...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know I could run 700c tires on the rim if need be, but would I have the clearance for fat tires as well?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody tried this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-01-19T19:16:21.893" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T21:01:41.407" Title="Tubus Rack Compatibility on a 29er With Discs" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;29er&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14103" CreationDate="2013-01-19T19:59:56.183" Score="4" ViewCount="4686" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bontrager DuoTrap is ANT+ compatible as well as the Suunto Ambit (with firmare 2.0 or greater).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's not possible to find any proof of concept on the internet (specialized sites, forums, etc...) about the compatibility of these two devices, is it possible to know of some of you guys got this working?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5938" LastEditorUserId="5938" LastEditDate="2013-01-23T09:21:04.433" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T20:36:20.650" Title="Is the Suunto Ambit compatible with the Bontrager DuoTrap Digital Speed/Cadence Sensor?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14102" CreationDate="2013-01-19T19:59:56.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely &lt;strong&gt;YES&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works both with &lt;strong&gt;speed&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;cadence&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I paired the &quot;&lt;strong&gt;bike pod&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; and got both the two measurement. At first I tried to pair also the &quot;cadence pod&quot; without success and I thought it wasn't working but then I took a ride and found out that the cadence was showing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5938" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T19:59:56.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14101" CreationDate="2013-01-19T21:01:41.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a salsa Fargo, with the tubus duo and logo racks. The cargo appears to be a more basic logo, so you should be fine for the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fargo's caliper mounts are inside the rear triangle, and the bike is designed to be a touring bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the duo, you will sacrifice using the fork mounted bottle cage mounts. Its most likely the same for the Tara. That upper loop on the Tara may interfere with a 29er, but I have no first hand experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T21:01:41.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3335" CreationDate="2013-01-19T23:27:51.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the most recently edited version of this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is purely anecdotal, but a number of women have told me that they'd like to commute by bicycle but are uncomfortable doing so without a helmet and were also not willing to mess up their hair with a helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_helmet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Helmet debate&lt;/a&gt; aside, it seems that a PR campaign &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1Y3NDUG_enUS512US512&amp;amp;client=tablet-android-asus-nexus&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome-mobile&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;q=safer%20cycling%20or%20driving&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;emphasizing that cycling is safer than driving&lt;/a&gt; would be a good place to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T23:27:51.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9929" CreationDate="2013-01-19T23:56:02.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are all helpful.  I just wanted to add that a bike store guy told me to bore out the hole in the rim.  I just did this and although the tube slipped, I didn't break the valve this time.  I'll try other suggestions to stop the spinning totally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5939" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T23:56:02.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-20T02:13:06.747" Score="2" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the short version. I'm all for adding more once I know what that more is to help answer said question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work on the road. I take my Felt ZW75 (http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2013/Road/ZW-Series/ZW75.aspx) with me. It rides inside my work van to be nice to it as well as having in my possession after lunch. I had a full tune up done. Then, the front derailleur required two clicks to change gears. I took it to another bike shop and had that adjusted. All happy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOW, when I'm riding, and not necessarily under pressure, it feels as though the chain is skipping OR I'm changing gears and changing right back (on the rear cassette). It will do this 4 or 5 times in a row, then quit for a while. All under the same speed and pressure. It seems to not do it in some combinations, but that could be my imagination. It will act the same way on the trainer indoors as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've really only ended up riding it once since the tune up, and three times (once indoors) since the weird skipping. So she is still nice and clean and oiled. In theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am fully capable of taking it to yet another shop. However, I received a copy of the Barnett Manuel and a set of Park tools in a nice little toolbox for Xmas. I'd like to start learning to fix the thing myself on the road, since the whole take it back to the shop isn't exactly an option. The best answer I have found in the Barnett is either the chain, a cog, or the pawls (?!) are worn or dirty. But she really only has ~200 miles on her. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jennifer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5940" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T02:22:39.527" Title="Had the front derailleur adjusted, now it feels like the rear is skipping" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14107" CreationDate="2013-01-20T02:55:43.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell, but what you are describing does not have to mean that anything is broken. The most likely cause would be improper adjustment of the rear derailleur. It may seem outrageous after two tune ups from two different shops, but you have little to lose in at least trying. Oh, and you will not need your box of tools for this, sorry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjJfKO_tAo0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. Pay attention to the last part, the barrel tension adjustment, which I think may be what's bugging you. Although the website you linked says your bike is equipped with SRAM, Shimano has &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Tourney/RearDerailleur/SI-5V80A-En_v1_m56577569830612967.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a detailed procedure&lt;/a&gt; to adjust that tension, which you may want to follow: as far as I know all brands work more or less the same. The document I have linked is for a random rear derailleur, but the &lt;strong&gt;SIS adjutment&lt;/strong&gt; part, which is the only one you should worry about, is the same for all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get it to work, then I would recommend getting it to a bike shop. I would think that any of the two you have already been to should at least take a look at it without charging you anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T02:55:43.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14118" CreationDate="2013-01-20T02:56:41.243" Score="29" ViewCount="13886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm commuting in temperatures ranging from -10 to -25C without windchill factored in. I have a typical pair of interchangeable lens wrap around cycling glasses. I find that they, without fail, immediately fog up when I ride due to the moisture in my exhalation. Wearing a balaclava as I sometimes must doesn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering trying to find a cheap pair of ski goggles...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the poor road conditions, eye protection from debris and dust is imperative. How do other very cold weather commuters deal with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4005" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2019-01-30T12:17:17.610" LastActivityDate="2019-06-27T17:19:40.537" Title="Need cycling eyewear, but fogging is a big problem" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14109" CreationDate="2013-01-20T07:41:27.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When wearing a balaclava I've found that I really have to concentrate on breathing through the fabric as opposed to letting my breath travel up and out around the eye opening, especially when stopped. If you're still having significant issues with fogging without the balaclava it may be that the glasses actually fit too snugly to your face and perspiration is not venting adequately. Many frames with interchangeable lenses have optional vented lenses which may help, or you might try a different pair if glasses that sit a little further off of your face. I also find that when stopped it helps to pull my glasses down on my nose to let them breathe. There are also a handful of purpose made anti fog applications for glasses which you could try. Finally, if you're willing to try some rather strange sounding stuff, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5664689_anti_fog-glasses.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this eHow article&lt;/a&gt; lists several solutions that use household cleaners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T07:41:27.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-20T08:29:20.023" Score="1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;My right Achilles has been hurting when I ride with my $300 Sidi S Pros, which I bought a few months ago. I don't want to waste my money by not wearing them when I ride. How can I fix my pain in my right Achilles ?????? &#xA;Please help if you can.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5941" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-01-20T13:46:31.000" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T15:50:06.867" Title="Why does my right Achilles hurt when I use my Sidi S Pros" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14109" CreationDate="2013-01-20T11:13:40.647" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coatings are fairly useless on their own. Condensation happens because warm wet air is hitting a surface below a certain temperature (condensation point). Coatings tend to just encourage beading and run off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look for a pair of double-lens ski goggles. It's as it sounds and works in a similar way to double glazing. Two sets of &quot;glass&quot; separated by some dry air. The front glass gets the worst of the cold but there's nothing to condense on it. The inner glass is allowed to warm up nearer to your breath's temperature, above the condensing point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the best thing is none of this is that expensive. You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; spend a lot of money but most double-lens goggles work pretty well. Just make sure you try a few on to make sure you've still got good peripheral vision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5942" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T11:13:40.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-20T12:20:27.853" Score="5" ViewCount="2841" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to put a rigid fork onto a 120mm travel hardtail without upsetting the handling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to ride a Kona P2 fork on a 96 AA frame, which I suppose was designed for a max. of 100 mm travel and that worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to get a new frame, am eying up some rigid ti frames but the ones I like a designed for 120 mm travel, so I am a bit lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5943" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T12:45:26.510" Title="conversion to rigid fork" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14113" CreationDate="2013-01-20T12:45:26.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can purchase suspension-corrected rigid forks which are designed to work with the geometry that suspended frames offer (Essentially the axle-crown measurement places the head tube where it needs to be. Pretty simple.) There are a few manufacturers out there, but my favorite is Surly (in terms of quality and in value. They offer several forks for 26&quot;-29&quot; with disc and canti options.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mb4c3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/troll_fork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While installing a non-suspension-corrected fork might not totally ruin the handling of a particular bicycle, it would be VERY noticeable (as 120 mm is a good bit of distance to be dropping the front end of a bike.) It will be worth the investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T12:45:26.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-20T12:55:37.063" Score="2" ViewCount="16145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to calculate the power needed to hold a steady speed on an indoor trainer, so as I can train using power in watts. I set the bike up and put the crank at 90 degrees, then put a weight of 2.695kgs on the pedal to overcome the resistance, just on the verge of moving. The faster you pedal the more power is needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crank length is 175mm&#xA;The weight to overcome resistance is 2.695 kgs (converted to Newton’s 26.429)&#xA;Cadence is 80 rpm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5944" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T08:28:00.260" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T08:28:00.260" Title="How can i calculate the power in watts on an indoor trainer" Tags="&lt;power&gt;&lt;math&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14111" CreationDate="2013-01-20T15:50:06.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had some bad pain in my Achilles before. For me, it was a problem when I did a long ride with my seat too high and using SPD shoes and pedals. Because of the seat height, I was bending and flexing my ankles to push the pedals slightly at the bottom of each pedal stroke, this is called ankling. If you find yourself doing this, creep your seat down slightly and watch your pedaling form to see if that removes the need to apply force with your ankles during the pedal stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T15:50:06.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14115" CreationDate="2013-01-20T16:46:11.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, this is unlikely to bear any resemblance to the actual resistance at 80 rpm, but if you wanted to turn your numbers into watts, the formula would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P[W] = F[N] * l[mm] * w[rpm] * 2 * pi / 60,000&#xA;&#xA;P[W] --&amp;gt; Power [in Watts]&#xA;F[N] --&amp;gt; Force [in Newtons]&#xA;l[mm] --&amp;gt; Crank length [in mm]&#xA;w[rpm] --&amp;gt; Cadence [in rpm]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your example, it comes out to just under 40 W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T16:46:11.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14109" CreationDate="2013-01-20T17:01:43.760" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suffered from foggy glasses a lot, I prefer to wear clear lenses since I tend to ride after dark frequently. I tried a few of different cycling glasses with clear lenses, eyeglasses with anti-fog coating, motorcycle goggles, and several pairs of safety glasses with no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finally found a pair of $9 &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00009363J&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MSA Safety Works&lt;/a&gt; safety goggles with anti fog coating that work well, don't fog easily, and have good peripheral coverage without obscuring my vision. They sit far enough off my face that they prevent fog when I'm stopped. So far this has been the best alternative to bulky ski goggles that I've used.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t4RbO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t4RbO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest things you can do for any glasses to prevent fog is to keep them clean and free of sweat, oil, and residue.  I don't know if this is the best method, but i tend to just clean my glasses with a touch of dish soap and rinse well. Don't use harsh cleaners like windex or alcohol which may strip the anti-scratch and anti-fog coatings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do your best to avoid scratching your glasses, as this will make it harder to see and often can causes refraction when looking at light sources. I keep a glasses case in my bag for storage when not in use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-30T12:04:52.203" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T12:04:52.203" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2145" CreationDate="2013-01-20T20:41:51.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a nutrition expert, but I swear by bananas! I have always had issues with cramps and bonking on long rides (over 50 miles). I don't train a ton because I have young children, but I like doing the Palm Springs Century each year. The way to prepare for this for me is to ride my usual 20 mile loop around town first twice, then 3 times, and yesterday I did 4 laps for a total of 80 miles. I had 4 bananas, one each hour, along with 2 large water bottles and felt great! I have tried the GU Packs, sports drinks, sugary chomp bites, and none of them seemed to work. From now on, it's just electrolyte water from Trader Joe's and good old fashioned bananas! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5946" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T20:41:51.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-20T21:47:44.843" Score="5" ViewCount="3010" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I tried to practice tuning my wheels, I found my spokes turn with the nipples. I tried to drop some lubricant on on the nipples, but I had the bike for two years now and there are a lot of dust clog in it. So the lubricant doesn't help too much. What can I do in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5947" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T00:32:51.133" Title="How to avoid turning the spokes while tuning the wheel" Tags="&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-20T22:02:47.050" Score="2" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a product designer and am currently working on a bicycle lighting project and would really appreciate your valuable feedback. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In England, turning left on a bicycle is not really a problem as you would just follow the road, but turning right can be an issue as often you would have to change lanes or cut across traffic. Likewise in other parts of the world where you drive on the right, turning left would be the issue. That is why it is so important to use hand signals, so motorists can see your intentions. But how can motorists see your hand signals in the dark?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an idea for a bicycle light which would clip onto the sleeve of your clothing; very much like the way an ipod shuffle would clip onto clothes. It would always be on; therefore acting as a safety light as well. If you wanted to turn right, you could put your arm out and then motorists could see your intentions through the flashing light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people have tried to crack the cycling indication market before, but it involves adding expensive and ugly lights to your bike. What if there was something as easy as the above, that just clips onto your sleeve- no need for bike modifications and probably less than a £10 spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This in mind, any answers to the following questions would be great:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you find it difficult to indicate in the dark? Do you think an idea like this would improve bicycle safety? Would this be something that you would buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5948" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T10:03:12.020" Title="Bicycle lights- Indicating in the dark" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14120" CreationDate="2013-01-20T22:03:58.600" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give it all a good clean then try some of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penetrating_oil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T22:03:58.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14120" CreationDate="2013-01-20T22:09:42.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you removed the tire,tube and rim tape then applied the the penetrating lube to the open end of the nipple?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T22:09:42.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14121" CreationDate="2013-01-20T22:30:39.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you've got a good idea here. As a frequent commuter to work, I often have to ride at night on roadways with poor lighting and/or no bike lane. The lights on my bike function well enough to warn drivers of my presence in the road, but do not offer near enough illumination to show any hand signals I may give--something which has resulted in several almost-accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think by clipping on additional lights to your sleeves, you can better indicate your destination/direction of riding. However, I do feel these should not act as a full-on replacement for lights on the bike. In Florida, at least, it is required to have both front and back-mounted lights, otherwise you incur a hefty fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the extra lights at a lower cost would definitely make me want to add them to my cycling gear. Avoiding adding more to my bike is also a draw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you just need to market it to your overseas audiences as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5924" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T22:30:39.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-21T00:19:33.290" Score="12" ViewCount="2492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Have been riding bikes since I've been 6 years old, and I don't mean riding up and down the street - I mean touring with my sisters for 10-20 Km. Later on, I really got into Downhill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time I have collected an assortment of bikes and then I moved to America (from Germany). I could only bring one bike so I chose my Trek Full Suspension MTB. My bike got stolen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm on a really limited budget, and I could never waste $300 on a really crappy bike from Walmart, and I can't afford a nice 2 - 6 thousand dollar bike. So I spent $430 on a Mercier Kilo TT fixed gear. I am incredibly impressed, it's a complete new experience of bike riding and I love it. However, I worry about some of the dangers of fixed gear if not ridden properly, how can I do it safely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is my first fixie, and I really got it for it's simplicity and cheapness, I have ridden all sorts of Road Bikes and Mountain Bikes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5949" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T16:10:07.623" LastActivityDate="2018-03-06T06:38:05.793" Title="Fixed gear Biking, how to ride properly?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4214" CreationDate="2013-01-21T02:04:00.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, no one has really answered this properly.  I will keep it short. First at the design stage, any lever, with any brake, can be setup to produce an identical pad force given a hand force. You can go wrong either direction, too much leverage or not enough leverage. Too much leverage, aka a too powerful of brake can result in running out of lever movement or one needs a very true wheel to prevent brake rub.  The brake can feel spongy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the big advantage of linear pull or v-brakes has to do with cable and housing,arms,etc stiffness and the force in these components.  With Linear pull the cable force is roughly half that of road brake cable. This then means the flex is roughly half.  This result in a much &quot;stiffer&quot; brake action given equal component stiffness, or it can mean a weight savings by making the linear components less heavy/ less stiff.  So by design they are simply a better brake. But of course setup and other factors can always be the more important factor.  And of course since front brakes need such a short cable, it doesn't matter as much on a front brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5950" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T02:04:00.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14125" CreationDate="2013-01-21T02:36:35.280" Score="18" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a front brake on it if you're using it on the street.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't get distracted and forget to keep your legs turning, this comes with practice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch out for pedal strikes in tight fast corners, not sure how you can practice this safely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, it's just like riding any other bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-01T05:28:53.743" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T05:28:53.743" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14115" CreationDate="2013-01-21T04:09:51.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://trainerroad.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TrainerRoad.com&lt;/a&gt; to see if your trainer is on their list and you may be able to use a Speed/Cadence sensor with an ANT+ USB stick in your computer to use what they call &quot;Virtual Power&quot;. They don't actually measure your power output, but based on known power curves of the trainer at given speed/cadence they run through some formulas to give you a number as you spin away on the trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T04:09:51.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14109" CreationDate="2013-01-21T09:13:02.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go to your optometrist Essilor make anti fog lenses called opit fog which work.&#xA;check out&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.optifog.com/EN/Pages/default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.optifog.com/EN/Pages/default.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5952" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T09:13:02.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14121" CreationDate="2013-01-21T11:40:06.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not clear from your question whether you ride regularly a bike, but really the best way to understand the requirements for a product like this is to get on a bike and do a bunch of riding around at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do this you'll find that the visibility of signalling at night is not as big a problem as all that. First, the proper approach to making a manoeuvre is look–signal–look–move: that is, you always check that it's safe to move and never presume that anyone has seen your signal. Second, bicycle position within the carriageway is a clear signal to other road users of your intentions: if you are positioned towards the left side of the carriageway, you intend to go straight on or left, and if you are positioned towards the right side of the carriageway then you intend to turn right. (Assuming drive-on-the-left as in the UK.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nonetheless, there might well be people who would like to buy lights to improve the visibility of their signals, so I'll make a couple more comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A device that clips on to clothing depends on you wearing long sleeves and so will not be usable in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to wear a light on your wrist for signalling then the light ought to be visible from all directions (so that it does not matter which way you put it on or how you hold your arm while signalling). The best shape would be a bracelet with lights all around.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I needed a device like this, I'd buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sportsvibe.com/slaplit-led-bracelet/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SlapLit LED bracelet&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="756" LastEditorUserId="756" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T12:34:38.183" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T12:34:38.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14140" CreationDate="2013-01-21T12:07:08.110" Score="6" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute every day on my trekking bike and when it is snowy/icy, I replace my normal tires with some studded tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The studded tires are ace, but replacing the tires is a real pain in the ass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm thinking of buying a replacement set of wheels to fit the winter tires onto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I have to consider when buying new wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4012" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T08:50:57.200" Title="Second wheel set for winter" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14120" CreationDate="2013-01-21T13:06:10.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best to do is to disassemble everything, specially remove the nipples from the spokes and rim, and maybe remove the spokes from the hub for best cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are exercising wheel maintenance, then this would be a good exercise, and lubing the spoke threads is what you need so that spokes stop turning along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if your nipples are so rusted that you just can't turn the nipples in anyway, then you should CUT the spokes out with a wire-cutter and replace them for new ones, before you need to true the wheel and discover you can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once more, the &quot;secret&quot; is to lube the threads, not the nipple body (where it touches the rim). I guess any lube would do, but only a very small amount is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T13:06:10.717" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14138" CreationDate="2013-01-21T14:49:46.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also considered doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly what type of brakes you have will depend on what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to look for &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size. Most important get the same as you have already. Also check the rim width with rim brakes as mentioned in comments below&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weight -if you have money to spend get some quality lightweight ones. If they are better than your existing ones, consider these you new summer ones and use the old ones for winter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brakes (disc or rim) If you have disc brakes you will need rotors too, or you'll be swapping them out all the time too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cassette. You'll need a wheelset which can accommodate a cassette that matches the the current one on your bike. There's no need to replace the chain if you are getting the same speed (number of cogs) cassette. Genreal consensus in the comments below is also to replace/swap the chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also cleaning the chainset will help a great deal in looking after your bike for the winter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary you will need a new cassette and new disc rotors if you have disc brakes to save you swapping these out all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often do you change the tyres? is it worth the cost if you change them 4 times a year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastEditorUserId="3140" LastEditDate="2013-01-22T08:50:57.200" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T08:50:57.200" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14120" CreationDate="2013-01-21T15:33:59.880" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I build/maintain wheels, I specifically make an extra quarter-turn to the nipple and then quarter-turn backward to release the rotational tension. This was &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#torsion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recommended by Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubing the spoke can help, but if your spokes are rusted, you might as well replace them with the new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastEditorUserId="1896" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T00:32:51.133" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T00:32:51.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14145" CreationDate="2013-01-21T16:03:17.107" Score="6" ViewCount="1916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going on a long distance bike tour and I am looking for advice as to the kind of equipment / bike set up I should use? I don't have a huge budget so what are the absolutely critical aspects I should invest my budget into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit)&#xA;I have a mountain bike modified for touring, with XT running gear, Sunn Rhynolyte rims, Brooks saddle. But I want to get lighter wheels, more comfortable bars, and I'm considering a hub gear box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on cycling across East China to Japan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would mostly be on the road, with some diversions down small side tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Budget is about £3500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2013-01-22T21:17:33.433" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T09:02:21.697" Title="Going on a long distance bike tour: what kit do I need?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14223" CreationDate="2013-01-21T16:15:18.857" Score="8" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a brooks saddle that has bedded in, slightly out of alignment so that one side is lower than the other. I have heard that it is possible to 'lace up' the saddle in order to retain its shape? How do I do this, and is it advisable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-01-22T14:07:08.660" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T01:52:52.960" Title="How to lace up a mishapen brooks?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;leather&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14142" CreationDate="2013-01-21T17:08:47.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is very general but I can start the ball rolling by telling you about a short-distance tour I did over a couple of days last summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think is was about 350km in the end, on tarmac roads, over 2 1/2 days, staying in hotels overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike was a road bike, but was an audax bike rather than a racer. It had mudguards, a rack and I had SPD clipless pedals on it. These were good on the bike but also allowed me to walk when not on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a start point, I had it equipped with what I normally take out on every ride. This is basically a saddlebag containing mini toolkit, mini first aid kit, spare tube, CO2 gun and a couple of spare cartridges. Also the usual bidons, helmet, Garmin, mitts etc. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a single pannier. I bought the pannier especially with smallness in mind. Bear in mind I was able to do this because of the short duration of my trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pannier contained: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some more tools, I can't remember exactly what but it would probably&#xA;have included a couple of wrenches, a quality chain tool. Also a&#xA;couple more spare tubes, a spare tyre and a high-pressure pump. The&#xA;minature stuff in my saddlebag is great for what it is, but I&#xA;wouldn't use it if I had a choice...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare cycling kit. One pair bibshorts, one jersey. For emergency use only. Bear in mind this was summertime so my clothing requirements were minimal. My first task as I got to the hotel each night was to wash my gear and try and find some way of getting it dry for the next morning. Good luck on this one if you're going to be camping! I reckon I must have had a long-sleeved jersey in there too, and a rain jacket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something to wear in the evening. A pair of undies, a pair of socks,&#xA;a t-shirt and the most lightweight trousers I could find. Oh and a&#xA;pair of espadrilles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Odds and sods including a USB charger to keep the phone and the&#xA;Garmin happy. Relied on these for my mapping, and for storing my&#xA;(pre-planned) route. Also a lightweight D-lock for when I left the&#xA;bike to visit a museum etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously because I stayed in hotels, I was able to forget about toiletries etc., not to mention did not have to worry about any camping stuff, e.g. a tent. I think I might have taken a razor and some deodorant, but that would have been it. Also because the trip was so short, I got away with a single set of clothes. I wouldn't have been particularly comfortable with that (probably neither would the people at the next table!) had I gone for any longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't pretend that this is anywhere near a complete answer but should give you some food for thought and an indication of some of the things you'll need to consider....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T17:21:17.430" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T17:21:17.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14121" CreationDate="2013-01-21T22:28:42.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I ride at night, I just use those &quot;pant leg bands&quot; with a velcro closure, that have reflective material completely around the band. They fit easily around a forearm or wrist, and are easily illuminated by vehicle lights from any direction. They take no batteries at all and last until they are somehow lost. They can be used at any time of the year in any weather. These have worked well for me and require no maintenance at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5957" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T22:28:42.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14142" CreationDate="2013-01-22T01:25:34.663" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cycling across China you want a reliable bike that is unlikely to give you trouble, and which can be repaired with &quot;local&quot; resources if it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget about &quot;lighter&quot; wheels -- you want reliable wheels, and a pound less weight (if that) from a lighter wheel will not make any difference.  And I'd stay away from a geared hub, unless you can find one that you know is popular in China.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need a comfortable bar, but that's a personal thing and quite relative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should take at least two spare tubes, maybe a spare tire (see Sheldon Brown for how to fold it), patch kit(s), boots, and a good frame pump (don't rely on a &quot;compact&quot; model, and remember that you may have 20 flats, so going with CO2 alone is risky).  You should have some extra chain links and a chain tool (and make a crib sheet on how to use it), and maybe 2-4 &quot;master links&quot; of your favorite brand.  A few carefully chosen tools -- wrenches to fit seat bolt, crank arms, wheel axles (if not QR), etc.  And several spare spokes -- you generally need 3 sizes -- at least 2 of each.  Also, it's good to have the minimum tools needed to remove the cluster, in case you need to replace a spoke on that side.  (Assume that you can borrow, eg, a pipe wrench or some such to operate a cluster wrench.)  And don't forget the spoke wrench -- get a good quality one, not the one-size-fits-all ring thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sun lotion, bug lotion, at least some &quot;emergency&quot; food, and a &quot;road rash&quot; first aid kit.  (Cortisone cream for bug bites is also often very handy, though toothpaste will work in a pinch.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And whatever camping gear and clothing you need, based on how you will be traveling.  And, of course, maps, money (stashed several different places), lock for the bike (with extra cables to secure panniers), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to bring along some sort of trinkets to give to the locals as you meet them.  Simply some shiny new quarters would likely do, or you may have some other idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-01-22T20:21:37.770" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T20:21:37.770" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14107" CreationDate="2013-01-22T02:22:39.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you mentioned in the comments it sounds like either the mechanic decided to adjust your rear derailleur for you as well and overtightened it, or it's just as possibile that while the bike was riding in your van the derailleur bumped up against something and your derailleur hanger has become a little bent.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; &#xA;If when shifting the derailleur consistently over shifts two gears down through the whole cassette then it's almost certainly the cable being too tight- or too short if you want to get technical. If it shifts fine at one end of the cassette and progressively shifts worse to the other end, then you probably have a bent derailleur hanger.  &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it's just an overtightened cable then a couple of clicks clockwise of the barrel adjuster on the derailleur should get it taken care of. If it's the derailleur hanger you're going to need to take it to a bike shop to have them bend it back. Not hard or expensive to fix, it just requires a special tool to gauge the alignment of the hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T02:22:39.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14120" CreationDate="2013-01-22T02:46:56.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of this has to do with how the spokes were prepped when the wheel was built, as well as the material that the nipples are made out of. There are two primary materials that spoke nipples are made out of- brass and aluminum. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Brass is strong, cheap, easy to work with and doesn't have the same tendency to seize that aluminum does. Aluminum nipples are typically a tad bit more expensive, can be more temperamental when building or truing the wheel, and more attention needs to be paid to spoke preparation because aluminum nipples tend to seize to the spokes. The upside is that aluminum is lighter than brass so you can shave off some grams in terms of rotating weight.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For round spokes, you'd be surprised how far you can turn the nipple without damaging the spoke. For most wheels in decent shape, after a third of a turn or so, the spokes will usually break loose from the nipples with a distinct &quot;ping!&quot; sound and an obvious drop in resistance to being turned- this is especially true of aluminum nipples. Go much beyond a half a turn without movement and you're risking snapping the spoke or damaging the nipple. If the nipple doesn't want to let go, you can try a tiny bit of penetrating lubricant and let it sit for a while.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have flat/aero spokes you aren't afforded the same wiggle room in terms of what the spoke will tolerate in terms of torquing a seized nipple free. As mentioned in the comments there are tools made specifically for holding aero spokes in place while tensioning them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T02:46:56.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-22T13:43:07.363" Score="5" ViewCount="9060" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just asking if it is possible.&#xA;My friend added gears, but won't it damage the look or my cycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5967" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T01:59:23.540" Title="Can I add gears on a bmx?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14154" CreationDate="2013-01-22T14:00:11.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible. There are a lot of 20in wheel bikes with gears. There are some problems, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame might need to be opened so that the larger hub can be inserted;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are no derailer hanger in bmx frames, so you'll have to use an adaptor, or a simpler derailer model which is mounted together with the axle;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The derailer itself is closer to the ground compared to 26in wheel bikes, but this might not be important, since many folding bikes are that way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The least of your problems would be &quot;looks&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can throw some more dollars and install an INTERNALLY GEARED HUB, which not just wouldn't break the clean looks, but would actually benefit from the horizontal dropouts found in BMX frames. But those are usually quite expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T14:00:11.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2013-01-22T22:34:06.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently had an horrendous experience with goatheads.  Naive perhaps but took to a country area that had flooding.  The local bike shop installed thorn resistent tubes (yeah think ones) plus some &quot;green slime&quot; that was silsicon based that would autoseal any puctures.  Our tyres look &lt;strong&gt;exactly&lt;/strong&gt; as per the image and we needed pliers to remove the thorns.  Took the bikes out again in the same area (whole region covered post floods) and was able to remove the goatheads manually from the tyres and the pressue was maintained - even 4 weeks later.  Original tubes defalted after one hour of ride.  Cost me $25 a tyre including fitting (on holiday so no options).&#xA;Oh and we had mountain bikes, but the bike shop chap assured me that the &quot;slime&quot; was good for all tyres.  You can't prevent the puncture so much as prevent the resultant air leakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5972" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T22:34:06.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2013-01-23T01:29:00.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with a balance bike if the child is vary small (under 2 yo). If older, take any bike, remove the pedals and use it as a balance bike and once the child masters the balance, screw in back the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5973" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T01:29:00.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-23T12:21:34.550" Score="1" ViewCount="2806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Ribble Sportive Carbon road bike.  The brake hoods are much smaller than most other bikes whihc makes them much less comfortable than other bikes (Scott, Specialised etc.)  Can I just replace the hoods to make them more comfortable or put larger hoods over the top of my existing hoods? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5979" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T21:59:57.450" Title="Do brake hoods come in different sizes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14159" CreationDate="2013-01-23T12:39:09.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;yep they come in different sized based on what brand the gears are, and what year or model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo, Sram and Shimano the 3 main manufacturer's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the stock Ribble sportive bike i'm guessing you will need these: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-ergopower-replacement-hoods/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-ergopower-replacement-hoods/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or these&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-23-Replacement-Brake-Hood-Covers-for-Campagnolo-11-speed-WHITE-NEW-/280905184450?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;amp;hash=item416740f4c2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-23-Replacement-Brake-Hood-Covers-for-Campagnolo-11-speed-WHITE-NEW-/280905184450?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;amp;hash=item416740f4c2&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo 10 speed, or modern 10 speed replacement hoods&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5978" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T12:39:09.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13598" CreationDate="2013-01-23T12:47:30.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Windwave Distribution are the UK returns contact for FSA, among others. You could give them a call, i'm sure they could help: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.windwave.co.uk/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.windwave.co.uk/index.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5978" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T12:47:30.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14163" CreationDate="2013-01-23T14:38:50.043" Score="4" ViewCount="8037" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 2 years of good use, left crank arm on my FC M542 crank set has started to get loose quite often (cca 500 km). It is usually indicated first by few now an then click-clanks somewhere in the region around BB. When checked, the bolts are loose, and the safety plate loses it's &quot;nose&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see there are 2 visible problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spline on the crank arm shows some wear, but they do not seem completely damaged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the fixing bolts is not original Shimano one M6x19, but M6x20 from hardware store with filed head so that it can be inserted in crank arm. It is also missing washer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to buy original bolt with washer. Other than that, is there something I can do to delay changing the whole crank set? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe using some threadlocker like loctite 242? Where would I apply it on the bolts or on the spline? If it is applied to the bolts, does that mean that I have to use more force while tightening them, or just use force as usual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastEditorUserId="8290" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T13:49:08.377" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T13:19:28.297" Title="Shimano Hollowtech left crank arm getting loose" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14162" CreationDate="2013-01-23T16:13:55.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thread lock will help hold the bolts on. I would apply it to the bolt thread, and not the actual crank arm thread. You will need more force to remove them when you do come to remove the crankset. But they shouldn't need any more strength to put them on. Just tighten them to the recommended torque setting (it should have it written on the crank arm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally though, it sounds like you have a few problems which only a new crankset and BB would solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a Tiagra Hollowtech chainset on ebay for around £30-£40. It might cause more harm than good trying to threadlock it all together, and give you more problems when trying to get it off and replace it later down the line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5978" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T16:13:55.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-23T21:01:57.263" Score="3" ViewCount="1165" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike is setup for cable routing under the downtube. I would like to route my rear brake, front derailleur, and rear derailleur cables along the top tube of a bike I plan to use for cyclocross to prevent the exposed cables from getting gunked up frequently with mud or snagged on things when I'm riding through brush in the woods (really bad in the spring / early summer). Reduced maintinance is my goal, I'm willing to take the weight penalty for that since I'm ultimately not ever standing on a podium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer not to use complete housing over the whole top tube, but I'll accept that I'll need to do that and use 6 cable clips (3 in front, and 3 in rear) if there are no better options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I figure I need two things. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) Something to keep cables on the top tube.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) A clamp on cable stop to help terminate the brake cable on the seat tube for the front shifter (I've got a mountain derailleur which goes top or bottom pull)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a 2 cable clamp on solution for 2 cables, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/backstop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;problem solvers backstop&lt;/a&gt;, but that doesn't work for 3 cables. What are my options here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T13:27:49.787" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T16:23:27.587" Title="Looking for components needed to route 3 cables on top of toptube for cyclocross bike" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-23T21:44:09.347" Score="3" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a urban rider that I ride locally on a regular basis but I am always concerned about fighting with cars on the streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I traveled aboard last year I ran into a manufacturer who has a tail lamp that has some unique safety features including:  1) Light-sensing hazard light that comes on when it detects dark surroundings (like going through a tunnel) ; 2) motion-sening break light that comes on when it detects deceleration ; 3) left/right/hazard signal lights that can be controlled by radio frequency using a control panel mounted to the handle bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tail lamp I thought was perfect to tackle safety concerns of riding in the city streets.&#xA;I currently have one that I installed on my bike and I am thinking of importing this product into the country to try to offer other cyclist who may have the same safety concern I had.&#xA;However, this tail lamp is rather costly compared to what you can find on amazon or ebay these days.&#xA;Its MSRP is about $90 - $100 per.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am posting to seek opinion/advise if anyone think this tail lamp would be worth the investment before I decide to take the plunge to import bulk quantities.&#xA;Any advise is greatly appreciated.  Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5980" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T17:20:22.517" Title="Safety Bike Tail Light with Directional Signals" Tags="&lt;taillight&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-05-28T17:57:54.620" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14164" CreationDate="2013-01-23T22:44:01.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going for less maintenance, you may just want to go with full housing. My exposed cables (on my top tube) get water, mud, grime and need to be replaced at the end of each season of cross racing. Extra maintenance during to keep them lubed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go full housing and use six of these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/clamp_on_cable_guides&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/clamp_on_cable_guides&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to think about once past the top tube...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front derailleur routing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not the best &lt;a href=&quot;http://gearjunkie.com/images/1397.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;image&lt;/a&gt; (but best I could find of my older CX bike) you can see the routing of the front derailleur will need a cable stop near the top of the seat tube. Mine uses a pulley below the derailleur. You can use the backstop you put in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamp on pulley: &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/cross_clamps_pulleys&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/cross_clamps_pulleys&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear derailleur routing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does your frame have stops for the rear derailleur on the seat stay or the chain stay? As the rear derailleur cable comes down the seat stay from the top tube, my cross bike goes to open cable and then back to housed cable for the curl to the derailleur. You'll need something here as well to either route the full cable down the seat stay or more clamp on cable stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear Brake routing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using Cantilever brakes (center pull), you will also need a cable stop for the brakes. You can get a seat post mounted clamp or even a seat tube clamp that has the center pull cable stop. Found one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paulcomp.com/fmrear.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T16:23:27.587" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T16:23:27.587" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14162" CreationDate="2013-01-24T04:26:29.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get the proper bolt and make sure it's tensioned to the proper torque. If you're still having problems with the crankarm coming loose then there's probably another issue. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Typically if you have a crank of that style that wont stay tight it's due to the pinch bolts not being tight enough and allowing the crankarm to come loose at some point in the past. That can damage the interface and cause the crankarm to come loose from the spindle on a regular basis. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If using the right hardware and torque doesn't solve your issues, take the bike to a reputable shop for a once over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T04:26:29.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14159" CreationDate="2013-01-24T04:34:57.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different makes and models of hoods are going to be different sizes, but as far as different sized rubber replacement hoods for a particular make and model of lever, I believe you are out of luck. The levers are designed with a particular hood shape in mind and I don't recall ever seeing a replacement that was of a different size.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You may benefit from changing the position and angle of your levers on your bar for extra comfort. Some folks like a deep dip in transition from their bars to their levers; personally I find it much more comfortable to have a flat transition from the bars to the levers, which can be achieved by rotating the bars back while pushing the levers down (which effecively keeps the levers at the same angle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T04:34:57.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10701" CreationDate="2013-01-24T13:21:50.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/spoke-tension-gauge/id518870820?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/spoke-tension-gauge/id518870820?mt=8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an iPhone based spoke tension gauge that uses sound to determine tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5984" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T13:21:50.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14174" CreationDate="2013-01-24T14:17:12.757" Score="8" ViewCount="37565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know riding and drinking only water can potentially lead to dangerous Hyponatremia or minor issues like muscle cramping. So I often supplement with electrolyte pills in my water like nuun or gu-brew, especially on long rides in hot weather and when doing multi-day tours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can too many electrolyte supplements be dangerous?  Is there a ratio or formula to follow to make sure I'm getting enough electrolytes, but not too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T08:14:35.910" Title="Can too many electolyte supplements be dangerous?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14171" CreationDate="2013-01-24T14:59:53.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is some information from the nuun website, might help you work out whats best for your body: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nuun.co.uk/pages/faqs-questions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nuun.co.uk/pages/faqs-questions&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5978" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T14:59:53.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14171" CreationDate="2013-01-24T16:04:56.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your kidneys are functioning properly the body will eliminate excess amounts of &quot;electrolytes&quot; -- potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, etc -- without much difficulty.  If you have kidney disease, though, you should discuss the issue with your docs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other stuff in some supplements -- herbals, carnitine, etc -- can be harder to eliminate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the electrolytes, taken in excess, can behave as a diuretic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T16:04:56.493" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14171" CreationDate="2013-01-24T17:13:58.240" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, too many electrolytes can do all sorts of bad things to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good article here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/521763-can-you-consume-too-much-electrolytes/&quot;&gt;http://www.livestrong.com/article/521763-can-you-consume-too-much-electrolytes/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The U.S. Army has done a lot of research, here's probably the most pertinent paper: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10410838&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10410838&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if you are mixing the drinks according to the directions, you won't be too wrong. Most will be a more natural mix if you mix according to directions then dilute 1:1 with water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T17:13:58.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14177" CreationDate="2013-01-24T19:29:13.577" Score="10" ViewCount="11179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a spacer that reaches from the top of the stem and over the top of the steerer tube. I am able to lock it down with the top cap, but I was wondering if it is safe to ride like this, or if I should get a smaller spacer so that the spacer and top cap is flush with the top of the steerer tube. The picture below illustrates the situation (hopefully).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKotD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T22:02:24.873" Title="Is it safe to use a spacer that reaches above the steerer tube?" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14175" CreationDate="2013-01-24T19:44:39.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would seem to be safe to me as long as the stem is properly installed. The clamp bolts of the stem on the steerer tube in a threadless headset setup are what holds the whole assembly together. Spacers below the stem are required to eliminate vertical play. Spacers above the stem are only required for aesthetics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only risk I see is that if the bolts on the stem loosen then the cap screw will be at increased risk of shearing and will not provide any real backup security of the assembly, but you shouldn't be relying on that anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T19:44:39.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14175" CreationDate="2013-01-24T19:55:49.900" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You actually &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; something sticking up above the top of your steer tube. It can be either a spacer or the stem itself. This is because the top cap squeezing down onto the stem/spacer stack is what keeps the headset bearings snugly in their cups. If the top cap is flush with the steer tube, there will be play in the headset which is bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Park Tools has a very &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;detailed set of instructions&lt;/a&gt; about headsets that you might want to look over. The following image is from those instructions and shows the amount of space that you need. More than that is acceptable as well, as long as it's not so much that the stem or spacer at the top is barely holding on. In your case, as long as the steer tube protrudes 2/3 of the way through your top spacer, you're probably ok. If you shuffle it around and put the stem on top of the stack, you'll want to make sure that the steer tube is well above the pinch bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WaEWk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T19:55:49.900" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14165" CreationDate="2013-01-24T20:29:01.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All this is very much depends on how good you are as a salesman. Very good salesman can sell sand in a desert and make good living. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what market you are talking about, but in UK you can get very different price range for the lights, top models priced at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=87949&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;£144 ($227)&lt;/a&gt;. And I have seen these lights used on the streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So $90 makes it costly for most of the people, but certainly you would find your customers who would want the set of features you are talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T20:29:01.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14102" CreationDate="2013-01-24T20:36:20.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ANT Wireless guys run a certification program and post the certified devices on a directory, you can find the Duotrap on there.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thisisant.com/directory/duotrap-digital-speed-cadence-sensor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thisisant.com/directory/duotrap-digital-speed-cadence-sensor/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5987" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T20:36:20.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-24T21:24:55.553" Score="4" ViewCount="6300" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my first multi-day bike tour the only physical trouble I had after a several long days on my bike was pain in the wrists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current touring bike setup has drop bars with a long fork. I chose the setup so that I would have a couple different positions to ride in, though in practice I generally keep my hands in palm rests on the brake levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure preference can be up to individual preference/physiology, but I was wondering if there were preferred handlebar types/brands/positions/setups known to be good for addressing wrist pain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, is there an ideal wrist position (or other strategies) I should look for, regardless of gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4576" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2013-01-25T22:04:21.540" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T20:07:35.300" Title="handlebar setup/selection to mitigate wrist pain on multiday rides" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14165" CreationDate="2013-01-24T22:00:22.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I wouldn't pay $100 for a rear facing light - Most fatal accidents arrive from the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All those extra things don't seem useful to me.  They are just additional things to break and/or not work as I expect them to work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I really care about in a rear light is brightness and beam shape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about cars recognising that you are signalling to turn get a bright helmet mounted light.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2013-01-28T15:14:17.597" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T15:14:17.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14211" CreationDate="2013-01-24T22:30:56.440" Score="3" ViewCount="4234" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a bike I'm building, I had my headset crown race press fitted to my fork crown by my LBS, along with my top and bottom cups into the headtube. The crown race was loose such that I could rotate it with my fingers, but there was no discernable lateral play. I was actually able to remove it with my hands, but it's not loose enough to put back on just by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headset is very good condition English-threaded Shimano 600 HP-6400. The fork is Italian threaded. My understanding is that the fork would expect a 26.5 mm diameter crown race, while the English headset has a 26.4 mm diameter race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the OD of the fork crown and it is exactly 26.4 mm (digital caliper). The crown race has an ID of 26.42 mm. What are my options? I really would like to use this headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I hope it's clear to all that this is not an ISO vs JIS issue, and neither part is 27.0 mm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T21:12:14.933" Title="Solutions for a slightly loose crown race" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14180" CreationDate="2013-01-24T22:56:29.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider splurging for a fit session with a qualified bike fitter. Having your position correct isn't always just a matter of having certain handlebars. I have a custom road bike, and recently did a fit session for another bike.  It can be pricey, but if you plan on riding long distances, for many years, it might be worth it!  Try asking around with your bikey friends for recommendations on fitters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5955" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T22:56:29.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14180" CreationDate="2013-01-24T22:56:52.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might try adding clip on aero bars. Not so much to make you faster, but to allow the option of using your bones to hold you up. Aim for creating a 90 degree angle in your arm at the elbow joint to have the pads of the aero bar support your upper body via the Humerus bone (connecting elbow to shoulder). This will allow you to rest your wrists and use your skeleton for support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must be very alert when riding in this position because your hands are no where near the brakes or shifters, but for long open straight stretches you can give other parts of your body a bit of recovery. Also, this aero position will feel odd/squirly at first but many can ride all day in this position, it just takes a little to get used to. You can angle the aero bars a bit more upright for comfort, experiment a bit to find the right position for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T22:56:52.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14180" CreationDate="2013-01-24T23:02:04.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest consideration for addressing wrist and hand pain (especially when riding long distances) is by reducing the pressure you're bearing on your wrists. Aggressive riding postures put excess pressure on your arms/hands/wrists/elbows for the benefit of aerodynamics and better advantage on your pedal strokes. For the majority of cyclists unconcerned with such things (tourists, especially) comfort and rideability are more worth the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) has been the go to rule for adjusting saddle fore-and-aft for quite a while. Lots of people find it totally satisfactory, however, everyone is built differently and quite often different riding styles necessitate different setups. Moving one's weight back onto their sit bones and feet (two parts of the body that aren't as sensitive to bearing weight) will in turn reduce pressure on your wrists. Your saddle needs to be adjusted for the appropriate height and then set back a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R6lIe.gif&quot; alt=&quot;KOPS&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that when you squat (sans bicycle), your hips have to move back to balance your upper body. In the above diagram, you can imagine the effect of moving your saddle back as being a similar shift in weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To compensate for that more upright posture, you may need to change your stem and spacer orientation and setup. The idea is to bring the bars up and back (with some room for fine tuning.) Most touring bicycles are fitted with tall stems that enable you to achieve this posture. If you're refitting a bike, you may need to buy a new stem or some spacers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people will suggest adding padded bar tape or thick gloves. While this is a great way to relieve some of the roughness and pressure, no amount of padding will make supporting your upper body all day comfortable. The idea is to use your legs and rump to get you from place to place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, these sorts of issues can certainly be caused by medical complications (carpal tunnel syndrome, especially), so consult with a doctor if things start to deteriorate or worsen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further resources can be found at SheldonBrown.com and RivBike.com (and many others.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T23:02:04.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11058" CreationDate="2013-01-24T23:37:47.850" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I wouldn't risk it. It's always best to go with a replacement that you know will work and especially with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tireteam.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tires&lt;/a&gt;! So really it's up to you but a close call for sure with the size dimensions you've explained here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5988" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T23:37:47.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14180" CreationDate="2013-01-25T00:05:58.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Touring/trekking/butterfly bars! (Also called &quot;randonneuring&quot; bars, as in a comment above.) All the hand positions ever; set the bar at whatever angle makes you happiest. Here's the set (from Velo Orange) that I'm getting on my new bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZoIU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trekking bars&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T00:05:58.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14215" CreationDate="2013-01-25T01:40:24.037" Score="0" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my current set up. I am thinking of upgrading and changing some parts. Particularly I am interested in making the overall bike lighter, and the ride more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steel frame (kona explosif)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26 inch wheels (Sun Rhynolyte).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disc brakes (Magura Louise).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chris King Headset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XT disc hubs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FSA X-Drive cross country cranks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XTR rear mech.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRAM 8 speed chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano 8 speed XT shifters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extrawheel trailer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carradice panniers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubus logo pannier rack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Schwalbe Marathon XR tyres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schwalbe Marathon tyres&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Components I am thinking of adding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Butterfly handlebars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom bracket: alternative to SKF (like Phil Wood).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thinner wheels (and tyres).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try out different brands of clip-in pedals like egg beaters, or 'Time' pedals instead of the Shimano SPDs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T13:53:04.350" Title="What bike for a long distance tour. What to change on current set up?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14212" CreationDate="2013-01-25T01:42:53.907" Score="6" ViewCount="1972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went on a long cycle tour before and I found myself getting bored whilst I was riding at some points. E.g. on monotonous main roads, and areas with not much scenery or people to stop and talk to, or when I got bored of music I was listening to. Does anyone have any advice about how to cope with boredom and in general improve the experience whilst touring.. I like to meet as many people as possible, because I found before that it was the people that made my journey interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T08:01:47.293" Title="How to cope with boredom whilst cycle touring?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-01-31T19:20:35.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14191" CreationDate="2013-01-25T02:37:49.340" Score="3" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FwniW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a year or two, I remember there being a pretty big buzz around 29&quot; front wheel, 26&quot; rear wheel mountain bikes.  They seem to have fallen off the face of the earth.  What happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5990" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T04:32:14.770" Title="What happened to 69ers?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14190" CreationDate="2013-01-25T03:21:32.083" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the time that 69ers came along, 29ers were still struggling to gain mainstream acceptance and 69ers simply didn't offer enough benefit, if any, to really interest the masses. I always felt that 69ers, especially hardtails, did more to combine the disadvantages of each platform rather than the advantages and so did many others. There just wasn't a compelling reason to mess with such a niche bike at a time when you could count all the 29er suspension forks and tires &lt;em&gt;combined&lt;/em&gt; with just your fingers.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ultimately as we all know, 29ers did gain mainstream acceptance, and when there was room for a &quot;middle ground&quot; platform 650b's filled the gap. It doesn't mean the configuration wont come back- I think it still offers potential benefit in a full suspension configuration, but the first wave of 69ers was not a success. At the time it was an untested platform based on an untested platform that typically cost more than all the other comparable bikes due to the small production runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T04:32:14.770" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T04:32:14.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14182" CreationDate="2013-01-25T03:33:55.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common solution is to use slivers of aluminum can to shim the race into a tighter fit. Be mindful not to get the shims underneath the race to where they sit on the crown- attempt to get them only between the steerer and the race. Having said that, I've seen folks shim races where the shim sat between the steerer and the crown and they had no issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T03:33:55.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14175" CreationDate="2013-01-25T03:38:00.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Totally fine. &lt;br&gt;If the stem was sitting well above the steerer you would be in trouble, but having a spacer with a big gap should be of no concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T03:38:00.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14204" CreationDate="2013-01-25T04:22:12.327" Score="14" ViewCount="22760" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clicking sound of the freewheel on my singlespeed when it's coasting is annoying for me, so I flipped over my back wheel and rode fixed for a few months in blissful silence.  But having to pedal all the time even when going downhill, over bumps and around corners, was probably even more annoying - so today I am flipping it back again to the freewheel.  Then I wondered, is there any such thing as a silent freewheel hub that I can buy?  If so, what's the search term I'm looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5255" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T04:44:58.523" LastActivityDate="2019-10-31T11:58:20.370" Title="Is there such thing as a freewheel that doesn't click?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14194" CreationDate="2013-01-25T04:34:58.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about other bikes, but in BMX there is a type of hub called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.free-coaster.com/general-info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;freecoaster&lt;/a&gt; - you can coast backwards and forwards without pedaling, and it is silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently they have them for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.affix-system.com/3_products_8_3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mountain bikes&lt;/a&gt; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5766" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T04:34:58.540" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14194" CreationDate="2013-01-25T05:09:33.607" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Police / Law Enforcement bikes often have a quiet freehub. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/2013/bikes/recreation-urban/law-enforcement/law-enforcement/enforcement-1-29er&quot;&gt;Cannondale Law Enforcement bicycle&lt;/a&gt; refers to it as a &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Silent Clutch Rear Hub&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; and specifically mentions &quot;R085&quot; as a model number (further googling suggests it's a Shimano).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T05:09:33.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14194" CreationDate="2013-01-25T08:20:21.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought a pair of wheels from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.neuvationcycling.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Neuvation&lt;/a&gt;. I have to say, their hub is &lt;em&gt;dead&lt;/em&gt; silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T08:20:21.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14171" CreationDate="2013-01-25T08:20:33.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend you read this series of four articles on hydration and electrolytes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsscientists.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Science of Sport&lt;/a&gt;, the blog maintained by Ross Tucker and Johnathan Dugas. They are two South African sport scientists, disciples of Dr. Timothy Noakes, author of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0873229592&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lore of Running&lt;/a&gt; and a respected researcher in all things sport physiology. As an indication, he published the first peer-reviewed paper on exercise induced hyponatremia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsscientists.com/2007/10/part-i-history-of-fluid-intake-and.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;One&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsscientists.com/2007/10/fluid-intake-dehydration-and-exercise_18.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsscientists.com/2007/10/fluid-intake-dehydration-and-exercise_21.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;three&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsscientists.com/2007/10/fluid-intake-dehydration-and-exercise_26.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Four&lt;/a&gt;. And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsscientists.com/2007/11/sports-drinks-sweat-and-electrolytes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;five&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsscientists.com/2007/11/sports-drinks-sweat-and-electrolytes_27.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;six&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a long story short:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hyponatremia is not caused by sweating, but by excessive fluid intake.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You should not be worried about what percentage of your body weight you lose to dehydration, but about the osmolarity (concentration of electrolytes) in your bodily fluids is.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The thirst mechanism is triggered by changes in the osmolarity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Letting thirst guide what you drink will prevent you from taking too few or too many electrolytes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If drinking by thirst, water will do just fine, as you will restore electrolyte levels to normal levels with dietary intake.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The link between cramping and dehydration or lowered electrolyte levels is not really supported by field studies.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the most sound advice is to let thirst be your guide, and stop worrying about electrolytes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T08:14:35.910" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T08:14:35.910" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14189" CreationDate="2013-01-25T11:33:29.210" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may depend on what you enjoy doing. For me, the very act of exercise will stop me being bored, and cycling wins on so many fronts. But if you need to actively do stuff, how about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;focus on the weather, on a good day&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;feel the breeze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;watch the scenery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;talk to others in your group (I'm less keen on this, as I like a quiet cycle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give yourself challenges, for example x minutes for each of the next 10 miles, or stay at this speed but focus on reducing heart rate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use counts - if you simultaneously count down miles to next stop, number of pedal rotations and number of breaths you will find it very hard to think of anything else - you can't get bored while focusing like that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;think on challenges at work, and possible solutions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;compose songs - I do a lot of this, using my cadence rate as a beat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T11:33:29.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14109" CreationDate="2013-01-25T11:48:14.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In that temperature I run clear downhill (mtb) goggles.  They have plastic on the straps so they stick to the back of your helmet.  Works great.  Bonus of keeping your face a bit warmer.  Never had any fogging issues with them, except occasionally when stopped at a light.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran ski goggles for a couple winters but have since switched to MTB goggles.  Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sticky strap to stick to your helmet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller frame to fit with a standard helmet.  I found ski goggles were a bit too tall and rode too low on my face because my helmet was pushing them down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to find clear goggles for night riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got mine of Kijiji but If I broke or lost them I would rebuy in an instant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2013-01-25T11:53:18.723" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T11:53:18.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14202" CreationDate="2013-01-25T12:00:39.250" Score="1" ViewCount="10391" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please let me know the life expectancy (no of km or time period) of a cycle tube and tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us consider different cycles (&lt;code&gt;MTB&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;Hybrid&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;Roadbike&lt;/code&gt;) and different terrain (&lt;code&gt;off-road&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;slightly rugged&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;smooth&lt;/code&gt;) respectively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I have a hybrid and have rode around 1500 km on it without a change of the tubes, I would love to know the other cycle's life expectancy and it would be helpful for others too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T16:23:53.617" Title="Life expectancy of a cycle tube and tire?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14201" CreationDate="2013-01-25T12:37:55.913" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tube will last the life of the tire, and more, if not punctured too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire will last until it wears too thin and starts puncturing a lot, unless damaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires do, however, become brittle and crack in the sidewalls from UV and ozone exposure, and will need to be replaced every 10 years or so if not worn out first. White wall and gum wall tires crack faster.  Tubes also will crack with age, around the valve stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running too low of a pressure can also destroy a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1500km is nothing, if the tires are kept properly inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T12:37:55.913" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4912" CreationDate="2013-01-25T13:14:46.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one that gets me as well. I am used to the front brake being on the right. However, I now have a road bike that was built in France with the front break on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This for me has a number of hazards, but so far hasn't caused me to come off the bike. For instance, when I need to slow down suddenly I reflexively squeeze the right brake harder (which I am used to and I'm right handed) which causes the rear wheel to lock up. This has caused a few close calls when cycling in a group because the back end tends to slide out. Needless to say, the other riders don't appreciate someone fishtailing in the middle of a group!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of signalling for corners, I'd imagine that in professional racing events this is not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have thought of one good reason why the breaks are orientated this way. If you're a righty, you can use your right hand to eat, drink, adjust clothing etc. while on the move but you can also keep your left hand on the front and more effective brake. If you're left handed, well I'd imagine it would be better to swap the brakes around if you're thinking like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the best answer I can come up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5994" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T13:14:46.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14194" CreationDate="2013-01-25T16:16:21.960" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already said, Shimano used to manufacture Silient Clutch rear hub. But that has been stopped a few years ago, so if you manage to source one - you are lucky man. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/njbNn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have one of them and it was truly silent. It was heavier than standard shimano LX hub, but it was silent and with instant engagement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I used Chris King hubs. If you put a lot of grease in their mechanism - they also become silent. &#xA;Pretty much with most of the freewheels, if you put a lot of thick grease in them, you'll silent them for some time. Unless you ride Hope hubs -)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trueprecisioncomponents.com/tpc-products/mtb-rear-hub/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stealth hubs&lt;/a&gt; - they are claimed to be silent, but I never had a chance to try them out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might as well read &lt;a href=&quot;http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/silent-freehub-or-almost&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; about silent hubs for further information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T16:16:21.960" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14201" CreationDate="2013-01-25T16:23:53.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyre lifespan very much depends on a tyre, use and rubber quality. Some high end tyres for MTB racing have very soft compound and they do not last long. A season of riding, if lucky. On the other side you can get hard-rubber commuting tyres that can last you more than 10K miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubes are good as long as they hold air. In my student days I used to have tubes with about 30 patches and they worked OK. Tubes are not like tyres, they don't wear out with mileage. So don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T16:23:53.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14189" CreationDate="2013-01-25T17:25:44.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you already have an earpiece (or headphones) or are comfortable with such a device, you could try listening to some podcasts, talk radio, or audiobooks.  When I'm on my trainer, I like to watch TV shows and movies.  However, I think this wouldn't work so well on the road.  Also, some TV shows, like certain sitcoms, work well with the audio only.  You miss some of the visual jokes, but if you've seen the episode before, those can be ok as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T17:25:44.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2013-01-25T18:38:48.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the light of Lance Armstrong's revelations clearly the answer is that doping has played a significant part in race speeds over the last two decades when it was widespread throughout the sport. None of the data during they period can be relied on and indeed the tour has a long history of doping.So much for cyclings healthy reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5997" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T18:38:48.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14210" CreationDate="2013-01-25T18:57:51.120" Score="2" ViewCount="3402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking around for new wheels and thoroughly confused about the common approach to freehubs.  Do they usually come with the freehub or do I have to actually put that on?  If they do come with it, why in the world do none of the listings actually say anything about sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I was looking at this http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product2_10053_10052_541505_-1&quot;&gt;listing which shows one in the picture, but does not give any specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T19:17:41.897" Title="Do new wheels usually come with freehubs?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14209" CreationDate="2013-01-25T19:17:41.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheels that take a cassette (Road, Mountain Bike, etc) generally come with a freewheel hub. Generally these are Shimano/SRAM compatible or Campy compatible. If it doesn't say, you can just about bet on Shimano/SRAM compat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheelset you linked to does and is Shimano/SRAM compat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels for fixies/tracks/single speeds usually do not have a freewheel sprocket (or a fixed cog). If it doesn't say, chances are it's not included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T19:17:41.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14182" CreationDate="2013-01-25T21:12:14.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was checking out Sheldon's website again and came across the following line in the article &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Servicing Bicycle Headsets&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the crown race is loose, sometimes you can fix it by using a hammer and centerpunch to create a series of &quot;craters&quot; in the side of the surface that locates the crown race. The raised edges of the craters may be just enough to remove the slop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I was skeptical, this actually did the trick! I made punches 1/4&quot; apart around the fork crown. Once I fitted the crown race again, there was no play at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T21:12:14.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14189" CreationDate="2013-01-25T23:53:19.470" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I may have given away in the comments, I'm not a fan of sensory deprivation when you're as vulnerable as you are when you're on a bike. &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; don't think there are many scenarios where not being able to hear &lt;em&gt;as good as you possibly can&lt;/em&gt; is safe on a bike — but you may not agree and safety really isn't the point of this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My belief is that &lt;strong&gt;when you listen to music, you are isolating yourself&lt;/strong&gt;. Same applies to an audiobook or a podcast. You may as well go the whole hog and watch a movie while cycling on a turbo trainer. The moment you ride &lt;em&gt;with music&lt;/em&gt;, the music has become your concentration. You're only going to enjoy the ride as much as you enjoy the music.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throw the music away and engage with your scenery. Listen to birds, weave potholes, count squirrels... Whatever you do, just enjoy the majesty, the unimaginable effort that went into creating what you're cycling past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't do that (and can't swap squirrels for the homeless, potholes for bullets — I have no idea what your area is like!) change your route so you're going somewhere that does interest you. Otherwise, as I said before, you might as well be on a trainer doing something that does entertain you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5942" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T23:53:19.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9534" CreationDate="2013-01-26T02:24:41.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This chain has offset links, Throw is away, flat linked chain will&#xA;fall nicely onto the cog. The rounded links here are catching and riding&#xA;the sides of the cog...Guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5999" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T02:24:41.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14194" CreationDate="2013-01-26T04:42:42.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer is get used to it. The clicking of freehubs/freewheels is like a fine wine- it's an acquired taste.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That said, the drier the hub is of lubricant, the louder it will become. You can squirt some grease in there to quieten the freewheel down if it's getting dry. The heavier the grease, the quieter it will make the clicking. Some freehubs actually require a very light grease due to the low spring tension acting against the pawls; too heavy of a grease will actually stop them from catching when you pedal forward. However, I'm not aware of a freewheel with this problem.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm sure some brands of freewheels are quieter than others, but I can't make any suggestions for you in that department.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Finally, it's important to note that freehubs and freewheels are two different creatures, which is why I edited your original question slightly. Explaining the differences is a fairly easy but different conversation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T04:42:42.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14188" CreationDate="2013-01-26T05:10:45.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Focus on your points of contact and your positioning on the bike. The butterfly handlebars are a potentially good option due to the extra hand positions. Are you totally happy with your saddle? If you're considering days-on-end touring you'd better be. Pedals aren't as big of a deal if you're already riding clipless- brand is just a matter of preference there, but are your shoes in good shape? any discomfort or hotspots after long days on the bike? Finally, if you have any discomfort or pain when riding the bike, it might be worth moving some things around, especially stem length/rise. I'm assuming you have your saddle height + fore/aft where you want it. If not, play with it a bit or better yet go see a fitter with a good reputation.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Most importantly, don't change any of these things immediately before you go on a tour! You need a few long days in the saddle to test them out first. Also, if you're happy with all of the things I mentioned, don't second guess them just because I pointed them out. Be happy with what you've got and how you've got it and have an awesome ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T05:10:45.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14194" CreationDate="2013-01-26T07:35:25.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Single speed hubs with coaster brakes don't click, at least I have never seen one that clicks over here in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T07:35:25.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10617" CreationDate="2013-01-26T11:46:53.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to depend what your priority will be &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the triathlon's are going to be a priority consider spending all of your money on a road bike and add some clip on aerobars. You could then spend some time  &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingfitness.hubpages.com/_1d9nq0za5ve03/hub/How-To-Adapt-A-Mountain-Bike-For-Cyclocross-Racing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;adapting your MTB for Cyclocross racing&lt;/a&gt; which takes a little effort but can lead to good rewards. The joy of cx is that you can ride whatever you like and have just as much fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your priority is going to be triathlon events AND doing better at Cyclocross you would be better suited to spending the money on a nice cx bike. Make sure it has a 46/48t outer chainset which will allow you a big spread of gears and your only real adaptations required will be the tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do choose to buy a Cyclocross bike the big debate at present is whether you ride discs or canti's. Disc's haven't made big strides into European Cyclocross as yet and my opinion is that when Sven Nys starts riding them-That's when it's time to swap from canti's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6001" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T11:46:53.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11058" CreationDate="2013-01-26T11:56:10.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference between 32 mm and 35 mm tires will only really be seen if you're using exactly the same tire in a slightly larger format. You may notice over time that if you switch manufacturers their profiles may change slightly and this may affect the effective clearance you have at your stays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having checked over the 7.2 frame it appears that there will be plenty of additionally available clearance to allow for a wider tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best thing to do is buy from a retailer who will be happy for you to return the new tires if there is an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6001" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T11:56:10.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10056" CreationDate="2013-01-26T20:15:22.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just modified my Merida Race Lite 903 which has a similar off the store set up like yours a week ago, the hills here are tough (Sangklaburi, Kanchanaburi, Thailand). I changed the Cassete that was 11/28T to 11/34T and it worked without replacing the rear derailleur with a long cage (XT Deore). did this by turning all the way to the bottom the screw of the tiagra short cage RD to adjust the pull of the spring on the chain... noticed that the upper pulley chain guide space is just a few millimeters but not hitting the large cog as i change gears... I did not change the chain either, but i cannot use the large chaining on the largest cog... this combination not a good combination anyway...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6002" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-09-22T14:27:38.707" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T14:27:38.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14143" CreationDate="2013-01-27T01:52:52.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You usually can only lace a leather saddle when it becomes sunken in the middle. Lacing the bottom across underneath will tighten up the sagging middle. This wouldn't likely be a &quot;do it yourself&quot; project without the proper tools/equipment. From your description, it sounds as if you're sitting on the saddle off to one side. I'm not sure this could be corrected by lacing. If you've had the Brooks saddle less than two years, then it should be covered under warranty if there is a problem with the leather itself or the seat frame construction that allowed this to happen. You'd need your receipt and return it to the dealer where you purchased it. It the saddle isn't under warranty, I'd suggest you take it to a horse tack shop in the area and see if they could straighten it up, reinforce the bottom and punch holes at a proper spacing to lace it up for you. Here's a link about the Brooks warranty, just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/getting-in-touch/contact-forms/info-request/warranty-claim/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brooksengland.com/getting-in-touch/contact-forms/info-request/warranty-claim/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T01:52:52.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10701" CreationDate="2013-01-27T07:50:44.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The method I use (still need to get a tension meter to verify) is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula for the connection between tension (KgF) to frequency is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;f = 1/(2L)*sqrt(T/u) where L is the length of the spoke, T is the tension (in Newtons) and u is the linear density of the spoke. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vibrating_string&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vibrating_string&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can get the linear density by dividing the spoke mass by its length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can get the tension T by multiplying the KgF in 9.98 to get it in Newtons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to use all the length measures in meters and all the masses in Kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for example for 140 KgF and 260 mm spoke that weighs 6.5g you get the frequency to be (1/2*0.260)*sqrt(140*9.98/0.025)~450Hz which is approximately A4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this results also correlates with John S. Allen's article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone gets to check this with a tension meter to confirm it would be helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6004" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T07:50:44.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-27T12:00:39.930" Score="0" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to mount my Galaxy S III on my mountain bike. I already use a case that suites me well, so I don't want to go for another case. What I'm looking for is a mounting system which will mount my phone with it's case on to my bike securely and by that I mean really secure, because I ride pretty rough terrain regularly. I really like Rokform, but it requires to switch to their case plus it's very expensive (around $100 for the whole solution), I'm planning to spend not more than $30 on this. So to put it short I'm looking for a universal solution, that can securely house and mount Galaxy S III in it's case on a mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4504" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-01-28T12:52:34.777" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T12:52:34.777" Title="How to mount Galaxy S3 on a mountain bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;smartphone-mount&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-01-27T16:57:12.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14241" CreationDate="2013-01-27T12:44:34.847" Score="8" ViewCount="2954" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daily commute is a 1.7km long, almost straight line with minimal slope. Since I have no other method of private transportation, I am thinking of getting a bike and have come up with two interesting candidates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://purefixcycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A fixie (for the fun of it)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.btwin.com/en/town-bikes/3921-b-coo0l-automatic-grey.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A purely urban bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the things that affect my decision:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have not riden a bike in about 8 years (since my teens)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every day I will be caring a laptop case with me&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The super market is pretty far for hauling the week's groceries by foot, so the bike should be useful there as well. If not, then I will be thinking for something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12683/good-backpack-for-carrying-groceries&quot;&gt;Good backpack for carrying groceries&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The temperatures around here, year-long range from -4° to 36° Celsius (averages 13°-22°)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know much about bike maintenance but I have some experience with maintaining other mechanical stuff (car, motorbike) and since my dad is a mechanic, I think I can get it going with a manual or something&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't want my budget for the bike to go above 400 euros&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6005" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T19:47:59.560" Title="Fixie Vs Urban bike for small-distance commuting" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14226" CreationDate="2013-01-27T15:20:33.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of this comes down to personal preference, but if you plan on hauling stuff I would go with a traditional framed single speed/fixed gear. Just make sure it has mounting points for a rear rack so you can run panniers in case you want to haul lots of stuff without putting it all on your back. You can mount a rack to a bike that doesn't have mounting bosses but it's less sturdy and aesthetically it looks like garbage. Also, if the bike is coming fixed make sure it has a flip flop hub and a mount for a rear brake- preferably it will come standard with a rear brake.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To give my personal opinion, between the two bikes you linked to I'd shoot for the fixie. The urban bike doesn't look like much fun to ride. As I mentioned earlier I'd seek out a bike that's ready out of the box to swap between fixed and single speed. The one you linked to need a back brake at the least to make it a single. If you wanted to go with an old staple that's extremely versatile you should check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check_ss&quot;&gt;Surly Cross Check SS&lt;/a&gt;. It comes complete as a single with a flip flop fixed/free hub and you can build it up to nearly any configuration imaginable short of a mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T15:20:33.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14225" CreationDate="2013-01-27T16:06:27.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're going to have to go with something purpose made for that specific model of phone to get a secure mount on the bike. I'm not aware of any universal phone mount options that are worth anything, however you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bracketron-Waterproof-Case-with-Bike-Mount/15860629?findingMethod=rr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;browse Wally World&lt;/a&gt; if you feel like wagering $20 one yourself. There are few different brands, but the Bracketron universal mount has sealed/waterproof zippers whereas the Arkon does not. I &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; tell you from personal experience that the Arkon universal car mount I have has had to be Frankensteined back into working condition about 4 different times over the last several years, so I don't have a lot of faith in their products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T16:06:27.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14226" CreationDate="2013-01-27T17:51:11.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fixie will be easier to maintain than a geared bike purely because it has no derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On all your other points would be satisfied by either type of bike, you'll just need to spec them when you buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do end up buying a fixed gear bike, make sure it has standard brakes - do not rely on the pedals as your brake. That kind of approach is great on a track but not on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a totally subjective note, I have four bikes and the fixie has become my firm favourite. Great fun to ride and very easy to maintain. I gave mine a full service a couple of months ago, right down to swapping out the bottom bracket, and it took just a couple of hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T17:51:11.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14226" CreationDate="2013-01-27T18:18:55.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For that distance on flat roads it doesn't matter.  Just get whatever you like, is comfortable to ride, and will be capable of carrying whatever you might need to carry.  (I suggest a rack and baskets or panniers rather than a backpack, but that's a personal thing.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your budget and needs look for a nice used bike.  Especially since you've not ridden much there's no sense spending money on a new bike you may decide you don't like in a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to budget some money for some good raingear -- it's not cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T18:18:55.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14189" CreationDate="2013-01-27T19:36:12.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say you like to meet people....so there's your start point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan a route where you have a village every four or five miles if possible, and be prepared to stop. When you feel like it, stop for some food or a drink, visit a museum, a church or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The four or five mile gap is long enough to have a decent ride too, especially if you can pick a scenic, traffic-free route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't budget to ride too far each day - if you end up thinking &quot;I've got 20 miles to go and only an hour of daylight left&quot; then that will force you to concentrate on the riding and not on the experience. But by the same token its worth having some places &quot;in reserve&quot; too - if you're going well so have time for a detour. (For my visit over to France I left myself with only about 50km on my last half-day, so visited the museum at Arromanches, plus the one at Pegasus Bridge, before I hopped on the ferry. Great visits the both if you like your history.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to China aren't you? There must be a million things to see there, the opportunity of a lifetime if you ask me. Get yourself onto Google and make a list of things to visit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally the last thing I would do is to wear earphones etc. unless you're confident you're not going to meet any traffic. Its just a safety thing for me. But to each their own... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T19:36:12.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14234" CreationDate="2013-01-28T00:25:11.073" Score="3" ViewCount="2262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about what I need to do for maintenance whilst on a long distance tour I am planning. can anyone help me out with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T12:31:42.513" Title="Essential maintenance for my bike whilst on a long distance tour" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-28T01:42:04.527" Score="2" ViewCount="14773" Body="&lt;p&gt;After tuning my brakes a lot (I was learning how) I noticed suddenly my back brake got really stiff. Does't really matter if the cable is loose or not, the lever itself feels really hard to pull when comparing to the front brake. What could cause this? The cable (since I don't mind cycling when it's raining, maybe it's rusty? but I got the bike for like 3 months) or the lever itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4917" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T00:56:51.603" Title="My v-brake lever (just one) is stiff. What's wrong?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14232" CreationDate="2013-01-28T01:55:14.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will depend on what kind of conditions you're riding in, what condition your bike is in, etc, but I think these are the basics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air up tires daily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lube chain. How often will depend on what kind of lube you use, which is one of those religious debates I prefer to avoid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check headset for looseness. This actually was an issue for me. Also check bearing cones (if you have loose bearings) on your hubs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check wheels for trueness, spokes for tension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you get a flat, make sure to remove the offending pointy thing from your tire. This can be harder than it sounds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check frequently (every time you stop) for slow leaks. I destroyed a tire prematurely because of a slow leak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check tightness of rack fixtures daily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally other things can go wrong, but I think these are the main things that you can &lt;em&gt;rely&lt;/em&gt; on going wrong or needing attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't forget maintenance on your body. Be prepared for sunburn, saddle sores, hotspots on your feet, muscle aches, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T01:55:14.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14233" CreationDate="2013-01-28T03:06:46.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the cable is not routed properly. Unhook the outer going into the brake level and slide it way from the brake lever - the lever should be free. If not, pull the cable and see that its moving freely all the way to the the brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T03:06:46.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-28T03:07:24.437" Score="-3" ViewCount="28990" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I determine what kind of BMX frame I have if I there no decals on the bike when I got it? I got it from my dad who found the frame and we put it together, but I am clueless as to what brand or make it is. Can someone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6006" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-01-28T04:37:07.643" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T09:56:59.317" Title="How to tell what BMX frame I have?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14236" CreationDate="2013-01-28T04:34:26.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a time when bikes (and cars, and food mixers, and whatever) were manufactured to last, and the same model would be manufactured and sold, unchanged, for many years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From somewhere in the 90's, there seems to be an obsession with the NEW, so now bikes (and cars, and cell phones, etc you get the picture) change their designs overnight, so people might want perhaps to purchase a NEW one every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make matters worse, in the world of bikes there has been a relative epidemics both from bikes manufactured in Asia (which might or might not be a Bad Thing, depending on perspective) and WalMart bikes (which are always Evil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if your bike is a &quot;vintage&quot; bmx, I think the best to do is to go to an oldschool BMX bike store and ask the shop crew. There are some bike models which are very distinctive (for example, the classic GT triple triangle), and folks used to see the same bikes over and over might remember some subtleties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if your bike is very new, then I'd say it's nearly impossible. Sometimes bikes from two different brands are identical except for the logos, and sometimes bikes that are SUPPOSED to be identical are not, just for being from different batches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it matters most to know if your bike is GOOD (aka, real bike), or if it is just a Bicycle-Shaped Object, which I hope it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T04:34:26.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14233" CreationDate="2013-01-28T04:46:29.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, carefully check the rear brake and compare it to the front.  In particular, the &quot;noodle&quot; of V-brakes is quite fragile and can get bent and crimped.  Or it can simply get bumped and moved out of place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Squeeze the brake lever (on the handlebar) and then let go -- does the cable (as it exits the lever) go &quot;limp&quot;?  If so, the brake lever itself is probably OK.  If not, the lever may be jammed somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the cable route and look for any crimp in the cable housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not unusual for a cable housing to rust up and jam the cable, but it shouldn't happen in 3 months, even if the bike is ridden in the rain.  More like the sort of thing that happens after 5-10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike is 3-months new and purchased at a bike shop you should take it back for a complementary &quot;tune-up&quot; anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T04:46:29.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14232" CreationDate="2013-01-28T04:59:33.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mainly air the tires daily and fix flats.  You should also give the bike a once-over about once a day checking for loose bolts &amp;amp; fittings, etc.  In particular, check for loose cranks, as a loose crank can muck things up really quickly.  Check the pressure in your tires (squeeze them with your hand) every few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have the bike serviced before you start, so that the headset and wheel bearings are properly adjusted -- they should not need adjustment on the ride, though it doesn't hurt to check them from time to time for looseness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain might need cleaning, depending on conditions and how far you ride.  Generally for a 1-week, 500 mile ride the chain should be fine.  Longer distances or exceptionally dusty/muddy conditions may require cleaning, and the chain should generally be replaced after about 2000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a mechanic supporting the ride you don't need much in the way of tools.  Otherwise, you should have some basic tools and spare spokes and repair links for the chain (plus tools to deal with both).  And some spare bolts, etc.  I've had rack bolts go walkabout, eg.  Some tape (electrical, medical &quot;adhesive&quot;, or, my favorite, hockey tape) is good to have, along with some &quot;zip ties&quot;, for making emergency repairs.  (I recall one rider who did about 20 miles with a tire repaired with adhesive tape.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T04:59:33.587" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14232" CreationDate="2013-01-28T12:55:28.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about regular maintenance (instead of fixing stuff), then I'd say the most important thing to do is to clean the chain, and lube it after cleaning. The chain is by far the part of the bike with fastest turnover, and the right maintenance can more than double the lifespan of the chain and, most important, of the whole drivetrain. This is specially important if you ride off-road, but also if you ride wet weather where road grime is thrown on the drivetrain by the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second to that, it is important to have your bike prepared PRIOR to the trip, and that means mostly wheels: properly installed tubes and tires, with protective strip inside the rim, well tensioned spokes, and hubs. Hubs should be preferrably waterproof (rubber washings), with clean grease and right adjustment (not too tight, and with no significant lateral play).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attachment of luggage/racks can become a great problem if you don't ride the smoothest of pavements, and it might be a good idea to carry some bungee-cords to make eventually shaky panniers more firm (wrapping them around the bike), and using thread-locking products (loc-tite) in the pannier bolts can spare you a lot of trouble (I have lost countless bolts due to vibration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure being over-cautious with air pressure does more good than harm. Messing too much with pumping and inflation can stress the valve system, and usually even not-ideal tubes can be ridden fine being inflated only once a week. Usually, you can just lift and drop the bike over its tires, from one inch or two high, and the bounciness will give you a hint if the tire pressure &quot;feels right&quot;. Sitting over it and bouncing yourself on the saddle and on the bars will make an underinflated tire immediately show off, and it is a very natural and function-related way of checking tire pressure, after you get used to what &quot;the right pressure&quot; is supposed to be, and how it looks and feels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on weather, another issue is brake cables and conduites. If you get too much dust and/or rain and mud, the braking power can be much reduced due to inner friction in the cabling system of the brakes, with levers becoming hard to activate. While cleaning helps, replacing everything is guaranteed to give back the best braking performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, I think that's it, hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T12:55:28.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14226" CreationDate="2013-01-28T13:29:45.217" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;For practical day to day commuting I would stay away from a fixie because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are not a very experienced cyclist, riding a fixie in traffic is actually not that easy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No fenders, so dirty clothes/mud in the face on rainy days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No rear-rack, so for luggage you are forced to use a backpack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wouldn't go for the type of urban bike you link because: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will have a very straigth posture on the bike. This makes quick steering more difficult even though it might be a matter of life or death in traffic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The straight-up posture with your pedals almost directly in line with your torso is not very comfortable when you have to put some effort into your cycling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The small wheels make this type of bike unnecessarily unstable. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A luggage rack on the handlebars leads to unpleasant/unresponsive handling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It looks dorky (but that is just my opinion)).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would find a nice secondhand bike that looks like the fixie you link but has fenders, a rear-rack and proper brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T13:29:45.217" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14226" CreationDate="2013-01-28T15:39:34.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as commuting goes, I would pick the fixie/single speed over the other bike you linked to, and here's why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Parts are more easily available.  If you need a replacement tube, your local bike store is almost guaranteed to have one. With 24 inch tires, they will probably have one, but it depends on the store.  Same goes for things like tires.  Just about everything on the &quot;urban&quot; bike looks non-standard and would be difficult to find replacements for. When you have a commuter bike, it's nice to have something that can be fixed by the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speed.  There is internal gearing on the hub and it doesn't mention the ratios. But if it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/04/27/sram-2-speed-auto-shifting-rear-hub-gets-official/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the one I'm thinking&lt;/a&gt; it has ratios of 1:1 and 1:1.37.  Which won't give you much speed especially with the size of the wheel and the small chain ring.  While speed isn't essential  it's nice to be able to get up to a good speed without a  really high cadence.  Also, bigger wheels coast a lot better so you'll be able to keep moving without as much effort.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ability To Upgrade.  Both the bikes you linked to are pretty low end bikes.  But the fixie has the advantage that it can be upgraded later if you want to. It would be easy to put better wheels on there, upgrade the brakes, better tires, add a better quality crank.  It doesn't even look as though there's a good place to mount a water bottle on the urban bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use for other purposes.  The urban bike looks like it would be fine for your short commute, but doesn't look good for much else.  The fixie could probably be used for much longer rides, such as going out for fun rides on the weekend or at night.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing I don't like about the fixie you linked to is that it doesn't look like it can accommodate a rear rack. This can be very useful for commuting. Although you have a very short commute so it probably isn't that much of an issue.  I'm the kind of person who would much rather have a rear rack than have a back pack on, but that's just personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T15:39:34.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13838" CreationDate="2013-01-28T18:20:14.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Marathon Racer is also available in 18&quot;. Won't be as puncture resistant as the Plus, but lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My (second hand) Birdy is still on the Mad Mike's it came with. My previous folders (20&quot; tyres) used Big Apples, and I didn't have puncture problems, and the Apple is also available in 18&quot;, but it's fatter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T18:20:14.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14249" CreationDate="2013-01-28T18:57:20.927" Score="9" ViewCount="7638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get started with some wheelbuilding. I've got a Park Tool TS-2.2 truing stand. Can I just rely on the calipers to provide a guide for centering the rim and dishing rear wheels or will I need separate dishing tool? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGtho.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tool TS-2.2 Truing Stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T12:27:18.300" Title="Do I need a separate dishing tool for building wheels with park tool TS-2.2 truing stand?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14244" CreationDate="2013-01-28T19:13:44.097" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you verify the centering you don't need to do separate dishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need the centering gauge: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/centering-gauge-1554-1&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/centering-gauge-1554-1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do read the instructions and get comfortable making the centering adjustment. It's not difficult. Biggest thing to pay attention to is to SLOWLY lower the gauge into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding! (and Wheel Building!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T19:13:44.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14165" CreationDate="2013-01-28T21:32:26.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid that while I am very focused on safety I wouldn't pay anywhere near that. I am more concerned with bright front and back lights and wheel lights for side visibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm less concerned with a light for signalling as with visibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T21:32:26.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-28T23:03:16.780" Score="0" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a Trek Lime for my mother a few years ago.  Unfortunately, it has now been stolen and I need to replace it.  She has terrible arthritis so any bike that would require her hands to do more than hold on would be out of the question.  I've considered buying a cruiser and having an automatic transmission such as the nexus hub installed, but I'm just not familiar enough with automatic transmissions to be sure this is even possible. To complicate matters, I'm working out of the country for the next year and a half so I have to rely on others.  Does anyone have any suggestions?  BTW--I'm not willing to spend thousands of dollars on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6010" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T04:01:00.630" Title="Replacing the Trek Lime" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14244" CreationDate="2013-01-29T01:15:35.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't hurt to buy an inexpensive dishing gauge for double-checking your builds.  I have an old Performance one that would likely cost about $15 today, and it's perfectly adequate for this duty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can get the same double-check by simply flipping the wheel around in the truing stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T01:15:35.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14244" CreationDate="2013-01-29T04:36:07.303" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A properly aligned TS-2 truing stand will show dish, as well as alignment.  You rarely need additional adjustment after using it.  However, if the stand is out of alignment, you may need to re-dish the wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest and most accurate check for TS-2 alignment is a properly dished wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to ensure that the wheel is properly dished, and thus an accurate alignment check, is with a dishing tool.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, if you can afford the TS-2, a dishing tool shouldn't be a major expense, and is worth the cost, even if you only use it as a final, double check of the truing stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-01-29T15:08:51.247" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T15:08:51.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14247" CreationDate="2013-01-29T08:36:34.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If she liked the Lime, why not look at the second hand market. Get one and have it serviced by a good bike shop and off she goes... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : Quick 1 minute search and I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycleworldmiami.com/product/09trek-lime-lite-35650-1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; - why go second hand.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T03:36:58.623" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T03:36:58.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14232" CreationDate="2013-01-29T12:31:42.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised no one has mentioned brake blocks. In my experience these wear faster than tyres or chain. I get maybe 800-1000 miles from a set of brake blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've now switched to the v-brake &quot;insert&quot; kind, which are marginally cheaper and much quicker to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always carry replacements and keep an eye on wear. When they are nearly worn down, carry two full sets (front and back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T12:31:42.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13789" CreationDate="2013-01-29T14:02:44.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simplest answer would be to find a trailer that you like that sells the hitch as a spare part, and use that.&#xA;For example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carryfreedom.com/hitch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carryfreedom.com/hitch.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T14:02:44.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14247" CreationDate="2013-01-29T16:48:19.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option that I really recommend you, at least to consider, is a recumbent bike, specially one with a low crank and a relatively upright position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With such a bike, not only the hands get much more relaxed, but also the butt benefit from a wide padded area for support, which is shared a bit with the lower back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden a clone of the Easy Rider similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sunbicycles.com/product_detail.php?short_code=EZ-1%20SX%20Recumbent&amp;amp;cl1=RECUMBENT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, and although I was very skeptical about the cumbersome looks of the bike, the comfort and ease are unbelieavable (to the point of asking myself why have I been torturing myself with regular bikes for so long).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a senior lady I doubt there could be anything much better than this on two wheels (there are trike versions) BUT there are some caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are heavy;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are cumbersome to manoeuver in tight spaces;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They require generous space for storage and to get in and out of house. A garage would be ideal;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T16:48:19.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13855" CreationDate="2013-01-29T17:14:42.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was thinking about buying a new bike I did a lot of research, and I realized you don’t have to choose between a folding bike and one more practical: you can have both in one! I got my folder from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.montaguebikes.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Montague&lt;/a&gt; and it was a great purchase! I ride it every day and if it has to be folded, it takes under 20 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6014" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T17:14:42.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14165" CreationDate="2013-01-29T20:05:31.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get much better visibility from blinking/ flashing lights.  Steady lights tend to fade into the overall background &quot;noise&quot; of other lights at night.  Where as a flashing light makes you much more visible.  I would say spend $50 on a good bright set of lights that flash, like these &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3040.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3040.html&lt;/a&gt;.  The turn signals (hand signal) and brake light seem like over kill to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5371" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T20:05:31.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14159" CreationDate="2013-01-29T21:59:57.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There used to be a velcro wrap that was padded and wrapped around the brake hoods. I believe I got it from Bike Nashbar or Performance shops. It made the brake hood &quot;rest&quot; area larger as well as helped to cushion road vibrations. I don't see them available any longer and could find no other types of replacements online, but I'd say that you could use some &quot;stick to itself velcro that has the &quot;loop&quot; surface on one side of the band and the &quot;hook&quot; surface on the opposite side, so it will stick to itself when wrapped. You could buy longer bulk strips, say 12&quot; long by 3/4&quot; to 1&quot; wide and wrap the brake hoods to the desired size. You may even be able to place some sort of padding on the hoods before wrapping if desired. This would be more cost effective to try before replacing the brake hoods with a different style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T21:59:57.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10738" CreationDate="2013-01-29T23:30:10.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is because BMX racing is sprint racing. The riders stand and spin very quickly. There are a variety of crank lengths available which can help achieve higher cadences (RPM) based on your skill and leg length, and which in turn affect gear choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5834" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T23:30:10.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-30T01:24:15.060" Score="5" ViewCount="4678" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently bought the A23's. Wanted to see if the wider rims lived up to the hype of a smoother ride, better cornering, etc. After getting the wheels built by my shop, however, it appears to have been a colossal mistake! The problem: I can't get the tire on AT ALL!!!! Ended up with blood blisters on my fingers, not to mention probably coming close to getting a hernia, stroke, and/or heart attack trying to get the freaking thing on! Even a screw driver was of no use. (Only managed to get a tire on -- barely -- after taking off the rim strip and not putting a tube in.) Usually use Mavic Open Pros, could get the tires on those with no problem. Anyone know of a problem with these rims? Is it something inherent with a wider rim? (The inside depth of the A23 appears to be a mm or 2 shallower than the Mavic. Could that be it?) Or, could it be how the wheel was built? (I'm thinking maybe not enough tension.) Is there another &quot;wide&quot; rim I can try that is likely to work better? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6017" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T21:06:22.437" Title="Why won't tires go on my Velocity A23 rims?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14261" CreationDate="2013-01-30T01:40:53.557" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From some rather small experience I had with the problems you describe, I could give you these advices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first time you install a new (never used) tire is always the worst. Every tire gets a bit more &quot;soft&quot; to install after it's used a bit;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you are inserting the &quot;last bit&quot; of tire bead, you have to be sure all the rest of the bead is centered in the rim, so that it may sink in the deepest part of the rim and release some bead for you to use the levers and put it in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's VERY important you pay attention to the position of the valve. It should never be opposite (180°) from the &quot;last bit&quot; of tire you are installing, otherwise the opposite side of the bead will not be deeply centered in the rim;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Levers should be thin. That means they must be of a very strong material, preferrably engineering plastic. I use Schwalbes (blue ones) and they are very good. Some other levers I have sometimes don't work, in these cases only the Schwalbes do, but there may be other good brands around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, it's not impossible that your rim and your tire (at least the particular ones you have with you) are incompatible with each other. I would recommend you try to install the same tire in another rim, and another tire in the same rim, to check where the problem is, before asking for replacement of a part that is actually OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T01:40:53.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-30T06:39:13.370" Score="47" ViewCount="1621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work in San Francisco, and I'd estimate about 20-30 people bike to where I work. We mostly have a mix of road bikes and hybrids with a couple commuter bikes and mountain bikes too.  Currently, the only equipment in our bike cage is a locking entry door, a double-decker bike rack similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeparking.com/doubledeckerrack/index.html&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, and a single floor pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that we could start with some basic toolkit or repair kit, spare batteries for lights, loaner headlights and tail lights, and maybe a couple loaner helmets so people don't have an excuse to ride without helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else should we stock?  Are there premade kits for a situation like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6021" LastEditorUserId="6021" LastEditDate="2013-01-31T16:04:35.407" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T04:07:09.067" Title="About 20-30 people bike to where I work. What equipment/supplies should we have on hand?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="17" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2013-01-30T07:36:48.590" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there are premade kits but other things that would be good would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare tire tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain lube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With so many different types of bikes, it can be hard to have custom tools. But your list along with these extras, you should be good to go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6022" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T07:36:48.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2013-01-30T09:40:36.977" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd maybe ask the cyclists themselves - maybe ask them to bring useful spares and have an amount of petty cash on hand to reimburse them. They might be able to bring in old lights (let's face it many of us always leap to the newest kit and have drawers full of old kit lying around). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic tool set should include tyre levers, an adjustable spanner/wrench or combination bike tool, Allan keys (hex wrench). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're prepared to keep things topped up with consumables as well, that would be great - but you'll be forever replacing the inner tubes, but while you might need a mix of sizes, starting just with a few 700x25c would work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not convinced about spare helmets - apart from the whole obligated helmet wearing debate - you might be opening yourself up for liability if someone got badly injured in an accident while wearing one of the loaner items. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many lights these days are rechargeable themselves, either through USB or directly to mains, so making sure that there are charging sockets and a charged USB hub could be good, maybe a battery charger would encourage people to switch to that style of battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T09:40:36.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2013-01-30T12:29:52.787" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other things are more important than the &quot;equipment&quot; --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A secure place to lock up bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Room to change, and, ideally, showers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A place to store bike clothing, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Space (maybe a workbench) for making repairs such as tire repairs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of &quot;equipment&quot;, probably the pump is the most important thing.  Beyond that, simple tire repair tools, a few wrenches, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T12:29:52.787" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-30T13:27:34.773" Score="3" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will a right hand shifter described as shimano 10 speed triple work with a SRAM 9 cassette and a shimano compact chainset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6025" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T16:13:34.640" Title="Will shimano 10 speed triple shifter work with compact chainset?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14269" CreationDate="2013-01-30T14:50:40.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While Shimano does have one shifter (2010 ST-5603 105) which will work with either triple or double drive trains, no 10 speed shifter works with a 9 speed cassette, at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cam adjusters which claim to correct cable pull and allow you to use mismatched equipment, but how well they work is open to debate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should maintain as close to matching specs as possible.  All 10 speed or all 9 speed equipment is pretty much mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixing brands is likely to degrade performance to some degree, although it will work, usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is, if you need to ask the question, you don't have the necessary experience to make sure that everything comes out ok at the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you'll learn a lot if you try it, and if you can afford to experiment, it could be fun to try to make it happen.  Be prepared to buy everything 2 or 3 times, if you do try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T14:50:40.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2013-01-30T14:55:43.090" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going for a bit of an exhaustive list here.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would make up a toolbox with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire Levers*&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Patch Kits*&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubes in a few sizes: 26inx1.75, 700x23c, 700x28c, 700x32c&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick links for 8/9/10 speed chains.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain Lube*&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multi Tool with the following (Preferrably full size versions of all this, but a multi would suffice for most basic stuff)*&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allen keys (needs to have 8mm key for tightening cranksets)*&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain tool*&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phillips Screwdriver*&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flathead Screwdriver*&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainring bolt tool (to hold the back of those shifty chainring bolts)&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crescent wrench (with at least 15mm capacity for bolt on wheels)*&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal wrench &#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assorted Zip ties*&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrical tape&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Razor Knife&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fixed Gear Lock Ring tool&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain Whip&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano / Sram cassette lockring tool.&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Other Stuff:&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full size bike pump*&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A few good bike racks (not toaster style, inverted U style is best)&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A spare ulock and key (in case someone forgets a lock, we have this at the bike cafe)&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AA / AAA batteries&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CR2032 batteries&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A few cheap red blinkies (battery powered)&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A few cheap front lights (battery powered)&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nitrile gloves (optional)&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disposable blue shop towels*&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gojo / Hand sanitizer to wash hands without water (optional)&#xA;&lt;li&gt; A Repair stand if you have the space. Could get a folding one if you don't have a lot of space to keep it setup most of the time. A shop style repair stand would be good and could be bolted down if you prefer.&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Items with a * are the most important in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T15:16:14.853" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T15:16:14.853" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2013-01-30T15:03:05.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you want to keep it as compact as possible I'd suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pump (preferably a floor pump) with presta/schrader capability or an adapter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire levers and patch kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A multitool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A chain tool if the multi does not have it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain connector&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjustable wrench, pedal wrench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pliers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery charger / powered usb ports.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean rags&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First aid kit for minor injuries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T15:03:05.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14269" CreationDate="2013-01-30T15:59:31.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the derailleur, you may be able to get 10 speed shifters to work if you also swap the cassette to 10 speed.  The derailleur may have enough range to sweep the whole cassette.  I've had luck using a deore lx 9-speed derailleur with 10-speed shifters and cassette.  Worst case for the rear is that you'll need a new rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T16:13:34.640" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T16:13:34.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14261" CreationDate="2013-01-30T16:40:31.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some tires can be a really tight fit on any rim, and some combination of rim and tire can be extra tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A touch of soapy water, rubbing alcohol, or windex can be used to lube up the rim where you are trying to slide the final portion of bead over.  Try to use both hands with palms on the edge of the tire that is not seated to twist the tire on to the rim. It will get easier after they have been mounted once and put under pressure, but the first time can be a real pain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails, a tire lever can be used, but be careful not to pinch the tube between the tire and the rim when doing this. I've had issues like this with new rubber and had to pry a few panaracer ribmos on with a pair of plastic levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard that heating the tire a bit can help. I'm haven't tried this one.  Putting it in the sun for a bit seems reasonable, but I'm not ready to toss my new tires in the clothes dryer for 30 minutes.  Some people swear by it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T16:40:31.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14611" CreationDate="2013-01-30T17:41:04.607" Score="4" ViewCount="8133" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various webshops use the following names:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sachs Torpedo 3 gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRAM T3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRAM i-motion 3 gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many inconsistencies in what exactly they call them, and for a long time I thought it was exactly the same product, but now I know that at least Sachs Torpedo and i-motion 3 gear are different. I don't know how though, except that the shifter looks different, and the shifters are incompatible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how T3 fits in, maybe it is the same as one of the others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the technical differences between them? Any reason to buy one over the others? I am tempted to buy the Torpedo because I hope it will last longer, since family's bikes with Torpedo lasted forever in my childhood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The webshop I'm buying from is selling both Sachs Torpedo and SRAM i-motion 3 gear, I asked them for the difference, but they were not really helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6028" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T22:00:19.250" Title="Sachs Torpedo 3 gear vs. SRAM T3 vs. SRAM i-motion 3 gear" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-30T18:49:01.927" Score="3" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a minor run in with car early last month and my front wheel got trashed: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z9cPN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.imgur.com/nM3hcr5.jpg&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Rebu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.imgur.com/z2RdwzJ.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LBS says between labor, paying for the proprietary spokes (you have to buy for front and back as well I guess), and the possibility it can't be re-trued, I may as well just buy a new wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is...if I can scrounge up a couple spokes can I try and put them on and see if it'll true up myself? If so, have any spokes or know where I can just get three?? Can I use used ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6029" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T20:08:15.370" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T03:53:47.757" Title="Spokes for Shimano Ultegra Wheelset" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38809" CreationDate="2013-01-30T19:55:06.033" Score="6" ViewCount="5126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have assembled a bike with new Shimano Nexus 3 (SG-3C41) internally geared hub. In the lowest gear the hub is silent. However in the middle and highest gear it makes a clicking noise similar to free-wheel mechanism while not pedaling. The clicking is faster in the highest gear at the same speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I made an error in assembly or is it normal for this model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I somehow get rid of this clicking or at least make it quieter by greasing some parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: I couldn't fit the original grips in my setup, so I have Sram 7.0 rear 8 gear grip shift controlling the hub. I tried setting the grip between the gears, so I'm almost certainly sure this isn't the cause of clicking, but just in case...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T15:56:16.367" Title="Shimano Nexus 3 clicking free-wheel-mechanism-like noise" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14277" CreationDate="2013-01-30T21:57:15.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub and have similar ticking sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it's the various parts of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epicyclic_gearing#Compound_planetary_gears&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;planetary gear&lt;/a&gt; meshing and rolling against each other. It's a pretty complex little mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T21:57:15.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14286" CreationDate="2013-01-30T22:24:13.970" Score="-1" ViewCount="1029" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old bike is a Cannondale R-600 purchased in 1999. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Original key components. Frame, fork. (Aluminum frame, carbon fork)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ridden for several thousand miles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Well maintained. (Various parts have been replaced and upgraded over time.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A few visible minor dings here and there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Is the frame/fork safe? I can sell it or trash it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4389" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-01-31T19:41:12.400" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T19:41:12.400" Title="Is my old bike safe?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14279" CreationDate="2013-01-30T22:29:31.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless there are cracks or heavy rust, you should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures of the dings? If they are deep enough to cause metal fatigue, you might have an issue but I doubt you would call it a &quot;ding&quot; at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T22:29:31.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14296" CreationDate="2013-01-30T22:48:27.890" Score="4" ViewCount="3575" Body="&lt;p&gt;On some headsets which use a cartridge bearing in the lower assembly, the crown &quot;race&quot; is split. Also, I know a lot of people split their crown race for the ease of installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I'm overly concerned, but I'm wondering about two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone ever cracked a crown race during use? If this is something that can happen, a split crown race might shatter into pieces..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The crown race is held somewhat snug by the chamfered edge of the bearing, which suggests it might prevent a broken crown race from falling of the fork. Has anyone ever crashed due to the crown race / lower headset assembly failing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I ask this because I consider splitting a race. I'm switching out a RS Reba for a Surly 1x1 fork, both of which have a crown seat diameter of approx. 30mm (as do all 1.125&quot; forks, as far as I know). I tried setting it using my &quot;specialized race setting tool&quot; (i.e. some PVC piping and a mallet) and plenty of lube. No luck however, the pipe started to shatter but the race wouldn't set :-(. It seems like the seating is just a hair too wide for the race to seat. As far as I see there are two options: file down the crown seating a bit, or split the race. The latter seems easier; also I'd rather modify a 3€ part than a 50€ one. But only if I won't loose my teeth over it :-P.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6023" LastEditorUserId="6023" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T22:55:57.967" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T22:55:57.967" Title="Split crown &quot;race&quot; possibly dangerous?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14279" CreationDate="2013-01-30T23:00:54.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you know the history of the bicycle (crashed, etc)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While bicycle geometry\components\preferences have changed over the last 12 years, the life span of well cared for aluminum frame and carbon fork are much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the frame and fork and give it a thorough examination.  Look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Major dents in the frame that may compromise the integrity (minor dents and dings are fine).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracks or cracking at the frames weld points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abrasions or cracks in the carbon (even minor abrasions can over time weaken the integrity of the fork).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt drop by your local bike shop and have them inspect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5346" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T23:00:54.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2013-01-30T23:13:38.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest a spare bike lock or two. I can't be the only person who's forgotten to replace the lock on the bike after washing the bike, and ridden happily off to work the next day without noticing. The great thing about this is that a rider should only need the lock during the workday!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T23:13:38.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14276" CreationDate="2013-01-30T23:14:21.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went through a similar process with my Easton EA90 SLX wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, 2 spokes broke at the same time (or one immediately after the other).  After special ordering the spokes from Easton and lacing them up, I quickly realized that the rim was bent beyond the point of repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fewer spokes your wheel has, the higher the spoke tension needs to be.  With such a high spoke tension a broken spoke can not only cause the wheel to become un-true, but also cause the rim to bend (which permanently weakens the integrity of the rim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend taking it into your LBS, and maybe even sending back to Shimano for inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5346" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T23:14:21.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14279" CreationDate="2013-01-31T01:54:03.467" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were a steel frame and fork there would be no question -- steel lasts nearly forever, even when moderately rusty, and can take all sorts of abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum is a bit less robust, but if it only has &quot;a few thousand&quot; miles on it (and not 30,000) and has not been abused (or hit by a car) then it should be good.  The problem with aluminum is that it can develop hidden cracks, but you've given us no reason to suspect that of this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carbon fork is also less robust than steel, and can develop hidden cracks.  But again, unless there's something in its history to make it suspect then it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly age is not a problem.  Nothing really &quot;ages&quot; on a bike beyond the tires (and, to a slight extent, the lubes).  (It could be true that the carbon fiber will deteriorate after 50 years or so, but that's something for your grandchildren to worry about.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frankly, I'm a little curious as to why you're concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-01-31T04:13:03.813" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T04:13:03.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14276" CreationDate="2013-01-31T03:53:47.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to buy single spokes for this wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model number for the current Ultegra wheels is Y4FP98130 according to&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/WH/EV-WH-6700-F-2915B_v1_m56577569830753823.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. What year are your wheels??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T03:53:47.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14247" CreationDate="2013-01-31T04:01:00.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/urban/family/automatix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SRAM&lt;/a&gt; make an auto internally geared hub these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you can find a bike that comes with one, with some deft Googling, or buy a cheepy cruiser and add the new hub to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T04:01:00.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2013-01-31T12:16:09.553" Score="62" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What really struck me though was that the average speeds really haven't changed much&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chart ranges from about 25km/h to over 40km/h, and that is a big change. As others have mentioned, increasing your average speed requires a non-linear increase in power applied to the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, to increase average speed from 25km/h to 26km/h is easier than increasing from 40km/h to 41km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I were to steal a time-machine, go back and ride each TdF course, using the exact same bike. To match the winners average speed, this is the wattage I would need to produce (well, a very crude approximation):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zg5y1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wattage required to match TdF winner each year&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(again, this is a very crudely approximated graph, designed to illustrate a point! It ignores stuff like wind, terrain, drafting, coasting, road surface and many other things)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From around 60 watts to 240 watts is a huge change, and it's very unlikely that TdF competitors have increased their wattage this much over time..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the increase will be due to more powerful cyclists (thanks to better training and nutrition), but certainly not all of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest is likely due to technological improvements. For example, a more aerodynamic bike will decrease the power required for a given average speed, same with a lighter bike when going up hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source for graph: Although my point should remain valid regardless of how inaccurate the above graph is, here is the messy script I used to generate it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It uses the data from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/news/datablog/2012/jul/23/tour-de-france-winner-list-garin-wiggins&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, exported to CSV (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AonYZs4MzlZbdFpHWnZaTnZZNXlORTJaM3lsN0EwV2c#gid=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average speed to required watts calculation could be simplified greatly, but it was easier for me to just modify the script from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/12776/4353&quot;&gt;my answer here&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/usr/bin/env python2&#xA;&quot;&quot;&quot;Wattage required to match pace of TdF over the years&#xA;&#xA;Written in Python 2.7&#xA;&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def Cd(desc):&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;Coefficient of drag&#xA;&#xA;    Coefficient of drag is a dimensionless number that relates an&#xA;    objects drag force to its area and speed&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    values = {&#xA;        &quot;tops&quot;: 1.15, # Source: &quot;Bicycling Science&quot; (Wilson, 2004)&#xA;        &quot;hoods&quot;: 1.0, # Source: &quot;Bicycling Science&quot; (Wilson, 2004)&#xA;        &quot;drops&quot;: 0.88, # Source: &quot;The effect of crosswinds upon time trials&quot; (Kyle,1991)&#xA;        &quot;aerobars&quot;: 0.70, # Source: &quot;The effect of crosswinds upon time trials&quot; (Kyle,1991)&#xA;        }&#xA;    return values[desc]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def A(desc):&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;Frontal area is typically measured in metres squared. A&#xA;    typical cyclist presents a frontal area of 0.3 to 0.6 metres&#xA;    squared depending on position. Frontal areas of an average&#xA;    cyclist riding in different positions are as follows&#xA;&#xA;    http://www.cyclingpowermodels.com/CyclingAerodynamics.aspx&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    values = {'tops': 0.632, 'hoods': 0.40, 'drops': 0.32}&#xA;&#xA;    return values[desc]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def airdensity(temp):&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;Air density in kg/m3&#xA;    Values are at sea-level (I think..?)&#xA;&#xA;    Values from changing temperature on:&#xA;    http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=%28air+density+at+40%C2%B0C%29&#xA;&#xA;    Could calculate this:&#xA;    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Density_of_air&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    values = {&#xA;        0: 1.293,&#xA;        10: 1.247,&#xA;        20: 1.204,&#xA;        30: 1.164,&#xA;        40: 1.127,&#xA;        }&#xA;&#xA;    return values[temp]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;F = CdA p [v^2/2]&#xA;where:&#xA;F = Aerodynamic drag force in Newtons.&#xA;p = Air density in kg/m3 (typically 1.225kg in the &quot;standard atmosphere&quot; at sea level) &#xA;v = Velocity (metres/second). Let's say 10.28 which is 23mph&#xA;&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def required_wattage(speed_m_s):&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;What wattage will the mathematicallytheoretical cyclist need to&#xA;    output to travel at a specific speed?&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    position = &quot;drops&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    temp = 20 # celcius&#xA;    F = Cd(position) * A(position) * airdensity(temp) * ((speed_m_s**2)/2)&#xA;    watts = speed_m_s*F&#xA;    return watts&#xA;    #print &quot;To travel at %sm/s in %s*C requires %.02f watts&quot; % (v, temp, watts)&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;def get_stages(f):&#xA;    import csv&#xA;    reader = csv.reader(f)&#xA;    headings = next(reader)&#xA;    for row in reader:&#xA;        info = dict(zip(headings, row))&#xA;        yield info&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;if __name__ == '__main__':&#xA;    years, watts = [], []&#xA;    import sys&#xA;    # tdf_winners.csv downloaded from&#xA;    # http://www.guardian.co.uk/news/datablog/2012/jul/23/tour-de-france-winner-list-garin-wiggins&#xA;    for stage in get_stages(open(&quot;tdf_winners.csv&quot;)):&#xA;        speed_km_h = float(stage['Average km/h'])&#xA;        dist_km = int(stage['Course distance, km'].replace(&quot;,&quot;, &quot;&quot;))&#xA;&#xA;        dist_m = dist_km * 1000&#xA;        speed_m_s = (speed_km_h * 1000)/(60*60)&#xA;&#xA;        watts_req = required_wattage(speed_m_s)&#xA;        years.append(stage['Year'])&#xA;        watts.append(watts_req)&#xA;        #print &quot;%s,%.0f&quot; % (stage['Year'], watts_req)&#xA;    print &quot;year = c(%s)&quot; % (&quot;, &quot;.join(str(x) for x in years))&#xA;    print &quot;watts = c(%s)&quot; % (&quot;, &quot;.join(str(x) for x in watts))&#xA;    print &quot;&quot;&quot;plot(x=years, y=watts, type='l', xlab=&quot;Year of TdF&quot;, ylab=&quot;Average watts required&quot;, ylim=c(0, 250))&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T12:16:09.553" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9196" CreationDate="2013-01-31T13:14:00.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those of you who still may be looking for a cheap degreaser, search for Virosol. This is the strongest degreaser I've seen. You'd normally buy it from sites selling industrial cleaning chemicals. It's eco-friendly and leaves your bike spotless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was less than £10 for 5L delivered (UK). It's concentrated so for general cleaning I dilute it 1:10, for chain etc 1:2. Basically, 5L will last you for ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful though, couple of drops can leave ball bearings in the hub clean as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6037" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T13:14:00.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12861" CreationDate="2013-01-31T14:09:12.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, breathing through the nose might be the healthier option if you don't need the extra oxygen (for say, intense uphill efforts). Breathing through the nose will optimize the temperature, humidity of the air you breath in and also makes any pollution reach your lungs a bit less probable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some other subtle effects, but since I'm no expert, I won't go into that. You might want to research that if you are very interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During an intense effort, I would say deep (diaphragm) breathing through the nose &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; the mouth is the most effective way to fill your lungs with fresh air. You might want to practice diaphragm breathing off the bike as well to get used to it. It isn't very natural for the first time.&#xA;So the tldr version is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nose when not intense effort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nose and mouth when intense effort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try to keep your mouth humid when you breath through it (drink very small sips of water frequently). A dry mouth is very unpleasant and also unhealthy (gums, throat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the cotton wool (it's pure speculation): maybe something is put on them, probably to clean up the upper respiratory tract from mucus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6038" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T14:09:12.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14281" CreationDate="2013-01-31T16:29:00.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never cracked a crown race after assembling many different bikes with different fork/headset configurations. Split crown race makes things far easier and it means one less specialty tool that you need to own or access to get the job done. I've never had an issue with split races either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for splitting your own, lots of people do it without issues, if you go this route, I would make sure you gently file the edges to make sure it is deburred with no sharp edges. For how infrequently you need to install/fiddle with a crown race, splitting would however be a last resort for me since you can usually set them with a piece of appropriately sized PVC pipe and a mallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6040" LastEditorUserId="6040" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T14:44:07.610" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T14:44:07.610" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2013-01-31T19:02:21.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best method I've found for adjusting tension without using a Surly Tuggnut or similar tensioner is to walk the axle back and forth. Generally, just holding the wheel at tension is not enough to get the tension right without undue frustration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: while this method works for singles and fixies, it doesn't work with quick releases. (It will also work with eccentric hubs where dropout tensioners don't help.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that you install the wheel in the dropouts with the chain routed correctly and then tighten the axle nuts a bit beyond finger-tight. Then, loosen the right axle nut and pull the wheel (using the leverage from the rim) to tension the chain and tighten that nut. You want to get the chain a bit too tight and then gently tap the nut to back off the tension until it is just right. Repeat the process on the left axle nut to get the wheel aligned, keeping one or the other axle nuts tight. Proper tension should allow the bicycle to pedal smoothly without binding and with as little chain droop as possible (the big risk of a droopy chain is that it will derail and that would not be healthy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using the wheel as leverage, you don't need to rely on physically holding the wheel perfectly straight and taught. After you've tensioned and aligned the wheel (the rim should be centered between the stays) be sure the axle nuts are tightened to spec to keep the wheel from slipping forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Additionally, if as you're adjusting your chain tension you find that the tension wobbles - i.e. it is tighter at some spots in the pedal rotation - then you need to center your chain ring!)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T19:02:21.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14351" CreationDate="2013-01-31T21:18:55.443" Score="2" ViewCount="1867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm was looking to build a new wheelset that I can use on my rigid Karate Monkey 29er using either cyclocross or Trekking tires for gravel / dirt road riding and 29er tires for singletrack (mostly cross country riding). I need a rim I can use with either disc or v-brakes, depending on my setup at the time. My weight tends to be around 190lbs. I also tend to be really hard on my wheels and have bent rims on my 29er before.  I'm not really concerned about tubeless compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I planned to use this rim, the velocity A23, since it seems to be recommended for cyclocross on velocity's website. It seems to meet all the specs superfically. I can use it with rim brakes, it's relatively light, and it's 23mm wide, which should be good for wider 29er tires while still being suitable for 32mm+ cyclocross tires.  It comes with the appropriate amount of drillings for 32 spoke mountain bike hubs. It also doesn't seem that it would be too weak for disc brakes since velocity themselves offers them in a build as a road disc wheelset.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the velocity A23 rim be suitable for this wheelset build? Are there any factors besides tire compatibility, spoke hole count matching the hubs, and brake compatibility I need to be concerned about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-02-03T11:54:25.830" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T15:08:47.933" Title="Are velocity A23 rims suitable for building a wheelset for a 29er Mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14316" CreationDate="2013-01-31T21:37:26.263" Score="3" ViewCount="5015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to build a wheelset that would work on my cross bike or my 29er, assuming I had disc brakes on the 29er and rim brakes on the cross bike, is there any way I could use a 130mm hub (that fits the dropouts on my cross bike) and make it work on the 29er with 135mm spaced dropouts?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems I would see would be that the disc rotors wouldn't line up on the 29er.  Could I use spacers to make the hub fit on the 29er or would I need to use a 135mm hub and spread the chainstays on the cross bike?  Would either of those options work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T14:02:48.740" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T03:53:29.230" Title="Can I run a wheel with a 130mm hub on a mountain bike with 135mm spacing?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-01T01:02:52.430" Score="2" ViewCount="1320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a road bike for commuting, fitness, leisure, etc. and not for professional racing. However, because I live in a &quot;wet&quot; country, I would like to be able to change the tires into cross tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, standard road tires are 25mm and standard cross tires are 30mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any entry level (meaning less than 2-3K) road bikes that have the frame/fork/brake clearance for the larger wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6042" LastActivityDate="2017-06-07T21:02:38.257" Title="Cross tires on a road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14299" CreationDate="2013-02-01T02:13:03.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested by @WTHarper - its a straight forward to spread a steel frame from 130 to 135mm. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Heres How&lt;/a&gt;..... DO NOT try this on aluminum or Carbon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible to fit the 135mm wheel into the 130 dropouts, but its a pain so you dn't want to be doing all the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go fro a 130mm hub, A) Can you get 130mm with Disc mounts on the hub?, B) What will it do to your chainline if you manage to line up the disc. My guess is that you would either have disc rotors or chain lines not line up. You can probably get it to &quot;sort of work most of the time&quot;, but it would never be great.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would spread the frame on the Cross and possibly install slightly wider BB to maintain the chain line. If the cross is not steal, run two wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T02:13:03.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14300" CreationDate="2013-02-01T03:09:46.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing to watch out for is the brakes, if the comes with V-Brakes or Cantilever brakes, you should be able to run wider tires and fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical CX tires are 32-35mm and typical road from 23-28.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caliper style brakes found on many road bikes will not accommodate the wider CX tires. There are many options under 2-3K, You could even look at cyclocross bikes as many are under the 2-3K in the US. Visit your local bike shop and look at a few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A buddy bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=jake_the_snake&quot;&gt;Kona&lt;/a&gt; &quot;Jake The Snake&quot; last year and is a very nice bike and under the 2-3K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T03:09:46.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2013-02-01T03:30:05.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not convinced by the need to keep much by way of spares and tools. If a tyre blows half-way between home and work, the commuter will need to fix it there and then. In other words, cyclists would routinely carry all of that stuff with them when they cycle.  More important than carrying those spares would be the facilities that have already been mentioned. When I commuted to work by cycle the things I desperately needed but didn't have were changing facilities, showers and a locker.  Although a general purpose toolkit -- assortment of wrenches, pliers, allen keys and so on -- is useful in any workplace, never mind whether people cycle there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6043" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T03:30:05.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14309" CreationDate="2013-02-01T07:41:53.553" Score="4" ViewCount="1528" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike I use for commuting and I'm about to move 20km further out, so I'm considering fitting a tiny engine to it to assist my ride to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, where I live I have a restriction - the maximum power allowed is 200 watts (about 1/4 HP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://zbox.com.au/zbox-picture-gallery.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some kits&lt;/a&gt;, but they have huge engines (beats me why they have to be so big).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, I'd prefer a diesel engine (no spark/glow plugs) and better economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brief research has shown that a tiny (5cc or so) diesel engine should be able to produce about 200 watts. A larger one could be de-tuned. There are model aircraft diesel engines of this size, but they're quite expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told a &amp;quot;brushcutter motor&amp;quot; (small two-stroke) could be an option, but they are noisy, smoky and smelly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not worried about how to deliver the power to the wheel - I'm trying to pick the power plant first then make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone got any suggestions for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diesel engine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very small (200 watts max)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Edit:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.focus-bikes.com/int/en/bikes/bikes-2012/category/urban-8/model/planet-tr-20-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Focus Planet TR 2.0 (2012)&lt;/a&gt;, which has &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hub_gear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;internal hub gears&lt;/a&gt;, so the solution can't involve replacing the rear hub. It also has disk brakes front and back, so replacing the front hub may be problematic (not sure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding range, I will live about 30km away from my CBD and batteries seems to have about a 60km range. Also, recharging takes a while, but filling a tiny tank takes seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I seriously doubt that the pollution created by a tiny 1cc engine exceeds that pollution created by the recharging process of burning coal and pushing the electricity through all the transformers and switches between the power station turbines and a bike battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these reasons, I'm still seeking an internal combustion solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6046" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T11:51:29.620" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T11:51:29.620" Title="What's best engine to motorize a road bike" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;motor&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-01T08:45:38.750" Score="5" ViewCount="1671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regularly ride MTB off road and used to use the bike for commuting too.&#xA;I recently bought a hybrid for my commuting in addition to my MTB.&#xA;What should I consider in terms of maintenance and riding style on the new hybrid. The main differences for me are the skinny tires and rim brakes instead of hydraulic discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T06:47:02.550" Title="converting from MTB to hybrid, what should I consider" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14305" CreationDate="2013-02-01T09:29:32.653" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, term hybrid is sometimes used for quite different bicycles (rigid or suspended front fork, caliper or canti rim brakes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are no big difference in maintenance. Maybe to check more often your wheels and spokes since they might be more stressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for riding style, you have to go more easy on curbs, and all kind of holes on the road. Your brakes will be less effective, especially in the rain or snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T09:29:32.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14304" CreationDate="2013-02-01T11:17:13.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rocksolidengines.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;These guys&lt;/a&gt; make small petrol engines for bicycles. I've never seen a Diesel one though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage here is they supply everything you need. Drivetrain, engine, ignition. The lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently in Bondi, Australia and I see a few buzzing around. They look like a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these tiny engines economy isn't going to change hugely from Petrol to Diesel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T11:17:13.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-01T11:48:45.673" Score="0" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 80's vintage Peugeot steel frame that I'm gradually trying to upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about improving the wheels and originally thought a set of Mavic Aksiums would be a nice upgrade. Problem is, it's not really the right era of component for such a bike, although I think compatibility shouldn't be too much problem... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also considered getting a set of wheels built that might look a bit more at home on the bike - Mavic Open Pros on a Shimano hub - (600 tricolours if I can get hold of some, modern 105s if not - they are just silver and quite plain looking so shouldn't ruin the look too much). Trouble is the second option is looking like minimum £230 for the set while the Aksiums can be have for £140.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what would you recommend? Is the performance difference between the 2 options significant (not that this is ever going to be a competitive bike!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current wheels are a crappy £30 shimano road wheel on the back (original died) and the original maillard hub wheel on the front (which is actually pretty light but has a poor braking surface)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T17:23:40.353" Title="Product selection help: wheelset for vintage(ish)steel roadbike" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14304" CreationDate="2013-02-01T13:32:12.170" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some bike hubs containing an electrical motor inside. If you google &quot;bike hub motor&quot; and take a look at the images, you'll get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think these ones are ideal since they require minimal changes to the overall bike structure, allowing for normal riding if the motor is not working, and they don't burn evil oil: you just plug the bike to the wall and that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spoked ones should be adequate for building a front wheel with a regular road bike rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T13:32:12.170" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14298" CreationDate="2013-02-01T14:48:46.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can find a 700c Salsa Delgado Cross rim, these will work fantastic for this application. Designed as a burly cross rim but was one of the early 29er rims, works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6040" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T14:48:46.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2013-02-01T15:02:37.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you guys complicate life as usual - if you have a good 26&quot; frame and want to keep it for personal reasons but convert your bike into 28&quot; you just cut off the brake pivots and weld it back 1-2&quot; higher (in case of cr-mo frame any car repair workshop can do that for you for few bugs).  Of course prior to that - first check if the wheel will fit - if it does - go ahead. you can do the same with the fork - or just change the fork to 28&quot;&#xA;Whole operation is easy and each. The bike geometry does not change too much - the bike is a bit higher - and the BB is hihger but these are not noticable differences. I converted my favourite Univega Alpina 5.7 like that - and got a fantastic trekking/cross bike instead of MTB that I was tired of. Plus fun - of making something different and consciousness that nobody has the same bike like you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S For more complicated alu bikes - you can think of drilling two holes - one in each rear fork tube + threading it - next screw in pivots - adding some glue to make the connection harder. THis is however not recommended for heavy duty bikes. But for city or trekking bikes works fine !!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6050" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T21:50:18.227" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T21:50:18.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14304" CreationDate="2013-02-01T17:17:30.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;MY first thought was MTFU and get fitter pedalling further. It might not be as hard as you think once you get used to it.&#xA;However, for a 20k commute, definitely go with an electric hub motor. Loads available off the shelf. Easy to fit and use, very economical and reliable with low/no maintenance. Also nice and quiet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6052" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T17:17:30.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14308" CreationDate="2013-02-01T17:23:40.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not keep a look out for some Mailard, Mavic or similar wheels from the early 80's on ebay. Should be much cheaper and fit with the frame more happily. With the cash you'll save you can get some quality brake pads that are designed to work on those steel rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6052" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T17:23:40.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14264" CreationDate="2013-02-02T00:29:35.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless I'm stark blind, I see no one has mentioned anything about energy bars or protein shakes, or even facilities to cater for the making of the latter. I'm sure that a few riders already do use them, and may find it convenient to do so in work, instead of at the week end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe that wasn't what you were thinking about, but it's worth a thought, to a degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6055" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T00:29:35.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14299" CreationDate="2013-02-02T03:46:37.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've respaced a steel road frame from 130mm to 120mm for a track hub. It's super easy, although Mr. Brown &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#necessary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recommends&lt;/a&gt; not doing this for a change as small as 5mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try a 135mm mountain disk hub with a 700c cross rim, this gives you the most correct breaking surface on both setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage here is that when you come to put the 130mm road wheel in your cross bike, it still fits. Although your cross bike MUST be steel and not aluminium of carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thought, this whole scheme is going to be a bit of a bodge however it's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be more tempted to have a pair of shared road wheels, where the stresses are much lower and a dedicated pair of off road for each bike. A 120mm/700c cross set, a 135mm/29&quot; MTB set and a 135mm/700c shared set with slicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2013-02-02T03:53:29.230" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T03:53:29.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14321" CreationDate="2013-02-02T13:18:05.740" Score="8" ViewCount="6447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought MTBs were OK to use in the city but the friction from the tires seem to hold the bike back more than other tires would. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a mountain bike (Scott) and it's less than optimal on flat city roads. It's like comparing dubbed tired with tires that are not dubbed(?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm thinking of switching tires to flatter tires making it easier to pedal the bike in a city environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this be a good or bad idea? Should I instead just get a regular city bike for use in the city?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6060" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T03:41:14.840" Title="Could I switch tires on an MTB to tires with less friction if I mostly use the MTB in a city environment?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14319" CreationDate="2013-02-02T14:03:11.600" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, tires with a less knobby tread will be faster on pavement. You may also lose some efficiency due to your suspension fork as well. If you can lock out the suspension on your fork, then that would probably improve the ride quality as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need another bike? No, but other bikes may be better suited to city riding. If you don't plan on riding the mountain bike off road, you might consider another style of bike, however many people are totally happy using a mountain bike in the city as their primary bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T14:03:11.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14319" CreationDate="2013-02-02T14:06:12.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly switch to a more appropriate tire. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/big_apple&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Big Apples&lt;/a&gt; are a popular choice -- I use their 26x2.0 tires on my mountain bike. They roll well on asphalt, and are quite functional on packed dirt and gravel. They're not suitable for loose dirt/gravel, rocks, roots, etc, you'll need a knobby mountain bike tire for those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real downside to this plan: If you intend to ride your bike in the city, &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; often ride trails as well, you'll quickly tire (pun intended) of switching between your mountain tires and your city tires. If you reach that point, you might consider buying a separate set of wheels and keeping the mountain tires mounted on one and the city tires on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T14:06:12.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-02T19:14:44.610" Score="-3" ViewCount="130991" Body="&lt;p&gt;In March 2012 I purchased a Cannondale Synapse Alloy 6 road bike. I put around 2100 miles on it during the year. This year I'd like to do a bit more mountain biking, but not any real hard-core mountain biking. It will be for trail use and light off-road riding. The area where I live, NW Ohio, doesn't have a large number of off-road riding trails. The more I test ride some of the bikes in my LBS, the more I wonder if I would enjoy riding one of these for road use as well (30 - 50 miles at at time). &lt;strong&gt;It got me wondering how many people use their mountain bikes for road riding as well as off-road riding, and why?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I'm looking to get a 29er, probably a Cannondale of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-02-03T04:10:41.433" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T07:43:42.337" Title="How many people use their mountain bikes for road riding?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-02-06T13:47:06.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14322" CreationDate="2013-02-02T19:38:57.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say it depends on the bike. About ten years ago I was riding a cross-country MTB with rather slim tires (1.95&quot; I think) and it was fun also on paved roads, even with knobby tires. Its handling wasn't comparable with a road bike but it was okay to ride on roads also for some longer rides. Now I ride a more all-mountain like bike with fatter and quite knobby tires and compared to the other bike it feels like you are pushing all your energy into the rolling resistance of the tires when biking on paved ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On both bikes I wouldn't go on 30-50 mile road rides if I could avoid it. As you say you have rather light terrain in your area, if you maybe choose a bike with rather cross-country like geometry, suspension lockout and rather &quot;fast&quot; tires (maybe semi-slicks) you could be OK with it. From my personal opinion it is OK to go on such along ride with a MTB if you have to get from A to B and have no other bike at hand, but I wouldn't go on such a long road trip for fun or if I had a more appropriate bike at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-02-02T23:47:24.893" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T23:47:24.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14329" CreationDate="2013-02-02T22:05:26.523" Score="1" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anybody know if that's a pre-existing part that's been repurposed or if it's something that they've had custom fabricated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wc8vK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bicymple Side View&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more pictures on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/joshbechtel/the-bicymple?ref=live&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kickstarter page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-02-03T04:17:30.593" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T04:17:30.593" Title="What is the stem/seatpost thing on the Bicymple?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14322" CreationDate="2013-02-03T00:04:18.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of this is going to depend on what you consider to be a mountain bike and what types of trails you are looking to ride. You said you you plan on mostly using it for trail use and light off-road riding so I would say take a look at some of the hybrid bikes out there and see if they might not meet your needs better than a true mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've put about 2,800 miles on a Trek Dual Sport sport over the last 5 months with about 1/4 of that on the road, 1/4 on gravel trails/roads (some of it quite rough) and the rest on paved bike paths. So far I have had no problems with 30 to 50 mile rides on any of those different surface types. Some of the most fun rides I take are actually longish (60-100 mile) rides with a mixture of paved roads, gravel trails and bike paths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know many of them won't do this, but once you've narrowed your choice down to a couple bikes will your LBS let you take them each on an extended (90-120 minute) test ride? If so take a nice long ride on pavement and you'll have the best answer possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T00:04:18.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14298" CreationDate="2013-02-03T01:37:54.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience with A23's (a couple posts down from yours) I'd find out first of all if you can mount your favorite tires on without too much trouble.  (I know there're other factors to consider, but I had to go back to my old rims . . . and that was for road tires.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6017" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T01:37:54.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4214" CreationDate="2013-02-03T03:25:31.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;V-brakes and dual pivot brakes each have an advantage over centerpull designs like cantilevers: less braking force lost to cable flex. With V-brakes and dual pivot brakes, cable flex is minimal if not eliminated outright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bikes &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; use linear pull brakes; that's what all sidepull brake calipers (like dual pivot) are. The main difference between dual-pivots and V-brakes is not stopping power (they are equal in that regard), but the amount of cable pulled. V-brakes require more, caliper brakes require less; and so each must be matched with a brake lever that pulls the correct amount of cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6064" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T03:25:31.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14324" CreationDate="2013-02-03T03:58:18.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a stem, which has had the bar mount replaced with  a seatpost clamp.  It is a custom part for this frame design, only.  They are having it fabbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T03:58:18.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14322" CreationDate="2013-02-03T04:09:23.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the majority of hardtail mountain bikes and short travel full suspensions are used both on and off road. Only the truly specialty machines, whose riders have multiple bikes will be only used off road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's anecdotal, but out of my friends and MTB cycling acquaintances, if you have multiple bikes, you generally have a hardtail, which is used for commuting, casual neighborhood use and light trail use, a fully which is your primary off road bike, and a road bike which is used for sport road riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have one bike, you use it for everything, to include commuting/neighborhood use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not identify as a &quot;cyclist&quot;, and yet ride a bike with any regularity, it is likely a basic mountain bike, and it is likely used primarily on the road and in the neighborhood, because there is the perception that mountain bikes are stronger, safer, more stable, more comfortable, and have better traction.  People use mountain bikes on pavement because they have them, because it is convenient, and because they are comfortable. But mostly, because that is what they have, and most people don't see a need for more than one bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even hard core roadies tend to have a casual use bike which, if it's not a mountain bike, is a hybrid based on designs evolved from converted mountain bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a rare cyclist who only ever uses their bikes exactly as the designer intended them to be used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T04:09:23.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14338" CreationDate="2013-02-03T20:59:14.113" Score="4" ViewCount="5714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old older (not too old) bike that already has disc brakes, but I would like to replace them with a totally new set and new rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I determine if a given replacement (caliper and rotor) is plausible my bike, and if so if an adapter will be needed or not, and if it is, what to get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the particulars, I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2000&amp;amp;Brand=GT&amp;amp;Model=Zaskar&amp;amp;Type=bike#.UQ6_8uizNZw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2000 GT Zaskar&lt;/a&gt; and one brake setup I am considering for example Hope v4 with 203mm front rotors and 183mm rear and would like to know if this would even fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KoaOQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front disc&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2I90Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear mount&quot;&gt; &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h6EH8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear disc&quot;&gt;&#xA;![enter image description here][5]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6066" LastEditorUserId="6066" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T15:00:18.050" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T15:00:18.050" Title="How do to determine if an adapter is needed for disc brakes and rotors?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14680" CreationDate="2013-02-03T21:40:03.617" Score="10" ViewCount="6281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen (and recently bought) entry-level rear derailers from Shimano (Tourney for MTB, 2300 for road bike), and I keep wondering why they are making these parts with such large pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this make the parts cheaper to produce, since large size means more material, and I can't see why customers would find this more attractive or adequate than the smaller-sized ones (unless customers would prefer more expensive models because they DON'T HAVE large pulleys...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I imagine there might be advantages to larger pulleys (less chain link rotation, less wear, slower pulley rotation), but the reason why entry-levels are big, while more expensive models continue to be the same old size, is very unclear to me, not to say arbitrary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2013-02-03T21:53:16.177" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T20:48:00.987" Title="Why do current, entry-level shimano rear derailers have large-diameter pulleys?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14332" CreationDate="2013-02-04T09:58:28.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason for the larger pulleys is that you don't need to make them as strong. More teeth helps to spread the load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small pulley is lighter and can aid shifting, but needs to be made from stronger material so you don't shear/wear teeth as much, and so you don't wear the bushings as fast (as @alex commented)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2013-02-04T12:13:20.647" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T12:13:20.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14340" CreationDate="2013-02-04T10:40:37.487" Score="9" ViewCount="5791" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I weigh quite a lot (~115kg), and ride on bad roads with many holes and cracks, I am looking for rims that would be able to cope with bad conditions without getting out of true or breaking. My tires are 37x622, maybe I will go to one size wider in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first instinct is that deeper rims should be more durable. Am I right? Are there some down sides to deep rims? Are they equally easy to true and put tires on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, which one would be better choice in my situation, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maddux-wheels.com/rims.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DXT 337 or DXT 221&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T20:21:03.307" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T20:21:03.307" Title="Are deep rims more durable for a heavy rider?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14332" CreationDate="2013-02-04T15:11:24.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low end drive-trains tend to have a bigger range from smallest gear to largest. Meaning the biggest cog in the cog set on the rear wheel tends to be much bigger. that means there is extra chain length needed to cover all the possible cog/chain ring combinations. (aka the gear you are in) The larger pulley wheels take up extra chain length when not needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6069" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-03-02T03:06:53.110" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T03:06:53.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14342" CreationDate="2013-02-04T15:13:04.680" Score="1" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst riding recently the cable slipped from the clamp on the rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to affect repairs by re-clamping the cable. However by pulling the cable tight I have lost the bottom 2 gears. If I then slacken the cable just a small amount I gain the bottom gears again but lose the top gear. I can't seem to reach a balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first time I've had to fit a cable to a derailleur, are there any tips? Am I potentially doing something wrong? Do I have to be in a certain gear before attempted to re-attach the cable to get the correct balance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6068" LastEditorUserId="6068" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T14:57:13.430" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T14:57:13.430" Title="Refitting Cable to Rear Derailleur" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14336" CreationDate="2013-02-04T15:43:57.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the cable is clamped correctly? Having that wrong can change the amount the derailleur moves for a given amount of pull (in fact it's sometimes done deliberately to use mismatched components - &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/drivetrain-mixing.shtml#alternate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/drivetrain-mixing.shtml#alternate&lt;/a&gt;).&#xA;Otherwise, make sure the cable moves smoothly through the housing and that the hanger isn't bent, then work through:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&lt;/a&gt; and/or&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T15:43:57.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14331" CreationDate="2013-02-04T16:17:43.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to enrich this answer, there are the two systems nowadays for mounting the brakes on the fork and frame; these are IS or postmount:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pricepoint.com/TechPages/TECH_Page_Disk_Mount_Types.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.pricepoint.com/TechPages/TECH_Page_Disk_Mount_Types.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you can find adapters to use one or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the disk-hub mounting, there are also two options, &#xA;- 6-bolt (the name is self-explainable, it is the standard in the market):&#xA;- or centerlock (Shimano proprietary), which are fixed by a lock ring, similar to the one used to fix the cogset to the rear hub, but on the disk side:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pricepoint.com/TechPages/TECH_Page_Rotor_Types.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.pricepoint.com/TechPages/TECH_Page_Rotor_Types.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have adapters to mount 6-bolt rotors into centerlock hubs, but the opposite is not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just one final consideration, if you are running a 26&quot; wheel, current brakes allow a huge braking power with relatively small rotor. Nearly nobody would use more than 160mm on 26&quot;, unless you are doing freeride or DH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6070" LastEditorUserId="6070" LastEditDate="2013-02-04T17:32:10.750" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T17:32:10.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14336" CreationDate="2013-02-04T16:22:46.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to dismantle the cable and housing, clean and lubricate with dense teflon grease, or replace with a new one if necessary. Then use one of the hundreds of videos on youtube on how to setup the rear derailleur, normally they all start by the smallest sprocket in the cogset...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6070" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T16:22:46.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14334" CreationDate="2013-02-04T16:56:13.507" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd actually lean toward a shallower rim, but the important bits are going with a high spoke count and either 3x or 4x pattern (both drive and non-drive sides). With a deeper rim, you are changing the angle in the cross patterns and reducing the length. This means that the spoke has to deflect more to handle the cross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more noticeable with really deep rims, with the slight differences in depth for the rims you listed, the difference would not be that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've built some race wheels and training wheels for a customer that's on the heavier side and competes in Ironmans. I've built the fronts with 3x both sides and the rears with either 3x both or 4x drive with 3x non-drive and haven't had any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your size and the road conditions, you will still need/want to true your wheels on a fairly regular basis, they will go out of true. If you get in the habit of giving them a quick check and true on the bike, you'll soon get where you are comfortable maintaining them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T16:56:13.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14336" CreationDate="2013-02-04T21:56:28.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might happen if there is friction when the cable moves in the housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definitive &quot;sign&quot; of it is whan you shift to larger cogs two or three times in a row (say, three consecutive shifts to a larger sprocket), but when you shift back the derailer doesn't move. This happens because when you shift up, you stretch the cable with a rigid lever (the shifter lever itself), but when you release the cable, due to friction, the spring in the derailer is not enough to pull the cable. Then if you keep releasing shifts, eventually the cable is lose enough for the spring to pull it. But then the cable is still &quot;in the wrong position&quot;, and if you shift up again the derailer won't move since only the cable slack will be compensated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is the problem, but if you have to do &quot;double shifts&quot; and can't get to the smaller cog without releasing too much cable (thus losing larger cogs), then I'd bet the cable or the housing have at least one frayed spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possibilities would be a bent derailer or derailer hanger, or the cable is wrongly attached as described by Armb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T21:56:28.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14346" CreationDate="2013-02-05T01:21:51.777" Score="4" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning during my morning commute I had an unintended lesson in fixie skidding: I dropped the chain, it got stuck between the cog and the hub and locked the wheel. I'm not sure where that skill came from, but I managed to come to a controlled stop without falling, crashing into the curb, or swerving into traffic. Scary, I must admit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was only a few blocks from work, so after a good deal of not-so-gentle pulling I managed to dislodge the chain, get it on the chainring and cog and get going. I did notice during the short remainder of the trip that if I applied back pressure on the pedals, the cog was no longer being held in place by the lockring. Not that I understand how that could have happened, but other than that and the terrible skid mark on the tire, nothing else felt wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I get home I will get a new tire on (kids, put brakes on your fixies, if only for financial reasons!), tighten the cog and lockring, check them for damage, measure the chain to see if it needs replacement, and make sure it sits a little more taut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing anything? Not sure if I should be looking at anything on the hub, spokes or elsewhere...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; I spent some time with my back wheel today. The spokes are all dented and scratched, but the wheel is holding up well. I took the lockring and cog off, and they both looked fine, same with the threads. After cleaning them up and putting some grease on the threads, I put the cog back in and tightened it with no problems, but when I was tightening the lockring it disintegrated: it obviously cracked during the chain jam, which allowed it to move out without stripping the threads. I am riding on the &lt;em&gt;flop&lt;/em&gt; side of the wheel now, which has made for an interesting discovery of forgotten feelings. I had been thinking of taking a tooth off my back cog for some time, so I'll just go ahead an order the whole pack: cog, lockring and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastEditorUserId="5843" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T20:45:11.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T20:45:11.697" Title="Checking fixie for damage" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;damage&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-05T02:33:21.587" Score="5" ViewCount="7767" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first I thought I just needed to lubricate my chain, so I degreased it and just re-lubed it very thoroughly.  It's still squeaking.  I thought it could maybe be a derailleur pulley issue, but I noticed that the squeak only occurs when the chain is pulled forward and not when it freewheels backwards.  Is there any condition that would cause a chain/pulley/whatever to squeak in only a single direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that torque load can sometimes be a factor, so I tested it by pedaling with minimal (near-zero) force and it still squeaks in only the forward direction, so it doesn't seem to be affected by heavy load vs. light load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only change I have made recently was that I took out and regreased my derailleur pulleys, but they were fine for about a week until today when it was lightly raining in the morning.  It seems plausible that the rain somehow messed up my pulley greasing, but I don't understand why it would be a unidirectional problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you to anyone who gives me suggestions or ideas or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1796" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T13:59:03.937" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T18:14:28.663" Title="My chain appears to be squeaking when I ride it forward but not backwards" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14343" CreationDate="2013-02-05T09:18:02.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would certainly give a lot of attention to the chainring and lockring. One question that I think you need to answer is whether the lockring was loose before the incident or did the chain jamming the cog cause the lockring to come adrift. Then you need to consider whether the lockring loosened naturally, i.e. did it turn along the thread, or was it forced sideways? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you tend to use a rear brake? From the question I get the impression you don't. (This isn't a criticism - I don't have a rear brake on my fixed, either.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use back pressure a lot when slowing and the lockring had been a little loose (when was the last time you checked it?) then it might be that that was what helped contribute to the jump - this is probably the best case for you, certainly the case with the least likelihood of damage beyond the tyre's flat spot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're sure that the lockring and cog had been tight before the incident, then I would really give the threads a careful review because you might have stripped them and caused some lateral damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the jam, I would certainly be looking at the spokes: go round the wheel, both sides, just trying to gently flex each spoke, they should each hold firm; listen for creaks too. It also never hurts to pop the bike in a stand and just run the wheel round a few revolutions and watch its line - even if the spokes are all firm, you might see a little wobble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you're really thorough, go over the chain and check for bent links (and while you're at it, give it a good wipe and a lube, you can't do that enough). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T09:18:02.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14344" CreationDate="2013-02-05T12:20:12.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your question, it's uncertain if you are performing the tests with the bike stopped (pedaling backwards) or moving (coasting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the squeaking happens when you coast, it could be something in the freewheel, or due to the relative movement between the cogset and the wheel, but I have the impression this is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if the noise appears when you pedal backwards (but not when you coast), and you re-checked pulleys and drivetrain lubing, it could be because your derailer have lateral play, and it changes its angle depending on which direction you spin the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for the sake of completeness, there are some hubs (American Classic, for example), where the freewheel is attached directly to the axle, while usually the cassette is attached to the wheel, which in turn is attached to the axle. I'm saying that because this would be the only situation where it would make a difference if you coast or if you pedal backwards, since there would be no relative movement between cogset and axle while coasting, only while pedaling backwards. In the regular, more common situation, it wouldn't matter with respect to freewheel, only with respect to chain movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it's hard to deduce what the problem is only by this description (it is in the flesh, already), but I hope this helps, and please add feedback when you figure it out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T12:20:12.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-05T14:29:45.720" Score="-2" ViewCount="2624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done tons of research into buying an electric bicycle (pedal assist). From a spec point of view, this detail is easy to find but from a day-to-day user account, this is much harder to find. I'd love to know peoples' experiences with their daily e-bike commute. How far they go. Do they go further than they used to on a pedal bike? How long does it take? How tired do you feel after your commute? And quite importantly, which e-bike did you go for in the end and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6076" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T21:45:31.133" Title="Would you do a 15mile + commute on an electric bicycle? Which one?" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2013-02-06T13:48:33.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14349" CreationDate="2013-02-05T15:04:42.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have an e-bike, but here's my view of them.  The major problems that I see with e-bikes is that, in many jurisdictions, they limit the speed to a speed which is too slow.  In my province it's 28 km/h.  After you're going 28 km/h, the motor stops working.  On a decent road bike, if you are physically fit, it doesn't take much effort to maintain 28 km/h anyway.  I'm constantly passing people on e-bikes with my road/touring bike, and I'm not that fast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the electric bike won't help you get to your destination any faster, and may actually slow you down because of the extra weight added by the battery and motor.  15 miles is a little far for many people, especially for a commute ride. It will probably take an hour or more.  If the distance is too long for you to pedal the whole way, you might want to look into other options for shortening your journey.  Many cities have bikes racks on the bus that you can use.  This would shorten the amount of riding you would have to do.  I had a 25 km/15 mile commute for a while, and the only thing I didn't like about it was that it took too long.  I was spending 2-2.5 hours a day just to get to work and back.  But it took the same amount of time (+/- 10 minutes) whether I was riding my bike or getting a ride in a car from a co-worker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T15:04:42.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14298" CreationDate="2013-02-05T15:08:47.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've briefly ridden A23's on a road bike, and while I think they'd be OK for cyclocross I did find them a bit flexy (I am ~220lbs).  I've spent significant time on the delgado cross rims, and I found the A23's noticeably less stiff.  I think you'd want something a bit beefier for singletrack riding, especially if you are hard on wheels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation I'd probably want more of a mountain bike rim that's skinny enough for the cross tires  than a road rim that might be strong enough to stand up to mountain biking, but imagine the lack of good mountain bike options with v-brake compatibility does make the road rims more attractive (along with their light weight).  Guess this all depends on your weight and trails you ride though - I'm a pretty heavy guy and ride in eastern PA where we have a lot of rocks/roots.  A lot of people seem to like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavicusa.com/en/product/rims/road-triathlon/rims/Open-Pro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mavic open pros&lt;/a&gt; as a 29er rim and they don't look much beefier than the A23's - I always assumed these folks weighed 120 lbs and were riding really smooth singletrack but I guess I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If sticking with Velocity, maybe the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=584&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dyad&lt;/a&gt; would be more up your alley?  They look a bit like A23's on steroids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T15:08:47.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14356" CreationDate="2013-02-05T16:50:52.903" Score="5" ViewCount="1424" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will an 1/8&quot; chain and cogs wear slower than 3/32&quot; chain and cogs for single speed / fixed gear setup? What about using an 1/8' chain mismatched on 3/32&quot; chainring and cogs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T17:08:58.393" Title="Will an 1/8' chain and cogs wear slower than 3/32' chain and cogs for single speed / fixed gear setup?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14344" CreationDate="2013-02-05T18:14:28.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have 3000 miles on the current chain, it is quite possible that you are nearing the end of the life span of the chain.  An easy way to check this is to grab a ruler and measure 12 links. Remember that a full link has both an inner and outer section so a full link will look something like this : (0)=(0)=()&#xA;So count every other pivot.  Each link should be ~1 inch.  12 links should = 12 inches.  If 12 links on your chain is more than 12 1/4 inches you should replace the chain.  This would be a good time to check the rest of your drive train for wear too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5371" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T18:14:28.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14334" CreationDate="2013-02-05T18:48:11.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To elaborate on Ken Hiatts answer: look at tandem wheelsets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tandem team can easily be 150-200+kg. However, tandem wheels will typically have rim profiles similar to regular bikes. However, they'll have much beefier hubs, and more spokes, which is what you'll want to do too for an optimum wheelset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T18:48:11.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14353" CreationDate="2013-02-05T19:56:58.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't remember where, but I read once that because a 3/32&quot; chain is more flexible laterally than a 1/8&quot; chain, it is more tolerant of imperfect chainlines.  This makes sense to me, but I haven't seen any numbers to support it.  So with an imperfect chainline you might see faster wear with 1/8&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the difference in wear is imperceptible, especially with a steel cog.  The combination of a 1/8&quot; chain, imperfect chainline, and an aluminum 3/32&quot; cog would probably be where you'd see the most increase in wear because you add a slight bit of play where the chain interfaces with the cog, but I still doubt you'd notice much additional wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T19:56:58.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-05T19:59:27.507" Score="2" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new steel frame which I am building up.  I intend to rust proof this first by using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_196239_langId_-1_categoryId_165594&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Waxoyl&lt;/a&gt; made by Hammerite which I will use on the inside of the frame and forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use this on the outside of the steerer column ie under the stem etc?  I am worried about the stem slipping with this substance being oil based.  If not is there any way that I can rust proof the outside of the steerer column?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6081" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T19:43:58.720" Title="Rust proof or not the outside of a steel steerer column beneath the stem" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;&lt;rust&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14349" CreationDate="2013-02-05T21:45:31.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have an electric bike either.  I do a commute of just under this distance each way every day and when used to it this distance is no issue.  The problem I see with electric bikes is when resorting to pedalling only whether through desire or necessity you are &quot;carrying&quot; a hell of a lot of extra weight on top of the weight of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I totally agree with the suggestions made by Kibbee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6081" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T21:45:31.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13249" CreationDate="2013-02-06T03:52:38.080" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its easier to keep replacing the spokes. When riding on uneven surfaces your weight shifts from side to side on the rear wheels,turning corners at a higher speed,bumping into curbs with front wheel while turning can also break spokes.I ride a Meridian 26&quot; &amp;amp; started snapping spokes at first,I always kept 20 spare spokes on hand &amp;amp; I think the new ones may be better than the Schwinn spokes because I haven't broke any for a while,replacing rims from Pacific Cycles is good if your rims are bent bad,I've replaced axles,rims,bearings but I started at 400 lbs.I ride 2-3 times a day.Love my Trike, I just wish I could make it 5-6 speed instead of the 3 speed hub I have now( don't climb well enough )tomorrow I get my Serfas 14&quot; wide cruiser saddle.my trike has a canopy shade cover,stereo,alarm,turn signals,brake lights,cane holder,white wall tires &amp;amp; a wooden trunk. I call It my Schwinn Cadillac. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6085" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T03:52:38.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14357" CreationDate="2013-02-06T05:39:14.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally wipe whatever greasy or oily rag I have lying around at the shop on any uncoated steer tubes as a habit. We're in a fairly dry area so it's not of great importance. If I was in a wet area I'd use a product called FrameSaver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no concern with slippage if the steer tube is greasy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T05:39:14.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14322" CreationDate="2013-02-06T07:43:42.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard route I take for commuting has only few asphalt kms, most of it is gravel or worse. A road bike wouldn't be as suitable (fun, enduring, ...), even though it is not a problem to use one for this route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would never consider a road bike because I like the versatility of biking. In summertime, I might change the route to one that leads through the woods, in the wintertime, my standard route can require spike tires. Somehow, using spikes, to me, corresponds with using a MTB and not a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, if you want to bike on roads only, a road bike is OK. In all other cases you will end up with a non-road bike. I cannot imagine a biker who would stop riding a MTB because she's on a road, whereas most road bikers would rarely use their bike off road.&#xA;Hence, this &quot;sort of&quot; answers the quantitative part of your question: the percentage of MTBers using their bike on a road is higher that the percentage of road bikers using their bike off road :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T07:43:42.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-06T09:01:30.323" Score="2" ViewCount="3158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 10speed MTB and replace the chain using a powerlink.  Now the bottom pulley wheel makes like a jumping kind of movement.  It is not smooth.  Also when in my small ring in front I get chain suck.  It sucks!! I never get chain suck :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6087" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T01:32:59.440" Title="Chain replaced but bottom jockey wheel &quot;jumps&quot;?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14362" CreationDate="2013-02-06T10:09:46.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The jumping is either chain friction (ie the links are not moving smoothly against each other) or links catching on teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fagan.co.za&lt;/a&gt; has a useful article on chain suck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarise his points, the most common causes of chain suck are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mud causing extra friction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New chain with a worn chain ring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn chain with a worn chain ring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worn chain with a new chain ring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the chain loads up unevenly on teeth on the bottom of the chain ring you get high friction, and the chain won't disengage properly from the teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First up - clean your chain and lubricate it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem continues, the simplest fix is to replace the chain ring, but you could also get your teeth reprofiled to reduce the friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2013-02-06T11:39:43.153" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T11:39:43.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14367" CreationDate="2013-02-06T14:15:28.490" Score="9" ViewCount="5193" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a commuter/crossover bike with disc brakes, and a daily commute of ~20km. I upgraded to a bike with disc brakes after standard caliper brakes kept losing their stick and requiring pad replacements, as my rims became coated with oil from the roads (I commute past a diesel truck depot, and the road is nasty for about 1km). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problem:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I upgraded, I have the opposite problem: literally every day in the winter, my disc brakes get full of mud, road salt, and sand. That stuff gets on top of and behind the (magnetically attached) brake pads, and makes them drag on the rotor. At best, they make the brakes constantly pull as if they were about 1/2 engaged. At worst, the water in the mud freezes and expands over night (I have a tiny apartment, and the bike sleeps outside), and the brakes are completely locked in the morning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I've Tried:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought it was the cables that were freezing with tension on the brakes, but after replacing and oiling them, I isolated the problem to the brake rotors/pads themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The roads where I live are pretty much always covered in debris all winter, so changing my commute to avoid that stuff doesn't really work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried adjusting the brake pads farther away from the rotors. This works a little, but to fully prevent sticking, I have to adjust the pads so far out that I can't fully engage the brakes when I want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up until now, I've been washing the bike with water every night (annoying, since during the winter the outside faucets don't work), and rinsing the brakes with warm water every morning to unfreeze them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is getting really old, so my question is: &lt;strong&gt;without obsessively cleaning them 1-2 times a day, how do I keep my disc brakes from getting gummed up?&lt;/strong&gt; If the answer is &quot;buy better disc brakes&quot;, that's fine. I just have no idea what to look for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T15:45:01.910" Title="How to prevent my disc brakes from locking/sticking due to debris?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14364" CreationDate="2013-02-06T15:26:28.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need to find a balance between pad clearance and also the lever configuration. You haven't mentioned what brakes that you have or what levers. For example, Avid BB5's only have one adjustment knob, whereas BB7's allow pad adjustment on both sides of the disc. This can make a huge difference in the flexibility of your setup (BB7's being much better in this regard). The other variable is levers. Standard brake levers might have little control, but an Avid SpeedDial7 (SD7) lever, for example, gives you control over reach and leverage with adjusters right on the brake lever. This could allow you to maintain pad clearance but also give you the stopping power that you want while keeping pads further out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last variable in all this are your cables. Have you lubed the cables to keep them moving freely? Are you running full length housing to keep dirt and gunk out? Some cable have the option of having little rubber sheaths at the ends to keep grime from getting pulled into the housing. Compressionless housing (like Jagwire ripcord) will also improve disc brake performance on mechanical systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6040" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T15:26:28.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14364" CreationDate="2013-02-06T15:45:01.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that cleaning with water is the problem. You wash them overnight, leave the bike outside. Water freezes inside of the breaks. You splash hot water again in the morning and get more water on your breaks and behind the pads that will freeze later on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try avoid using water in your daily clean. Just try it for couple times. Clean the pads with dry cloth and make sure there is no water in the system. And see how it works next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I have never experienced this kind of problem. And I've used disk brakes for the last 10 years in very different conditions, including thin wet mud all over the bike, brakes and pads. And I never got mud between pistons and break pads.&#xA;So I think the problem with &quot;magnetically held&quot; pads. My pads always been held in place by a spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have this option, try changing the breaks, but make sure that new breaks hold the pads with a spring, not magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T15:45:01.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14357" CreationDate="2013-02-06T19:43:58.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading that it forms a &quot;flexible waterproof skin&quot; I would have concerns over how thick this stuff is. The stem/steerer tube interface is pretty tight fitting and unless it is completely cured like a paint, I could see it having durability issues when you try to slide the stem on. I think I would just install the stem dry and get it all tightened down and then apply a thin film of waterproof grease with your finger to any areas that might be in contact with the elements or let water in. I am not a fan of grease on this area as it requires additional torque to stop the stem from slipping, but if you do, make sure it is very thin, your pinch bolts have enough torque you should be ok—given the fact that we are talking about a steel steer tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, when I had one of my frames painted, the entire steerer got a very thin coat of primer, and the rest of the fork was painted with multiple coats of paint. The primer is thin enough that it doesn't affect the OD of the steerer and keeps it completely protected from moisture (this is especially handy since I am using a Thomson stem which has windows that expose the steer tube on each side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6040" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T19:43:58.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14498" CreationDate="2013-02-06T21:14:04.457" Score="4" ViewCount="7847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/global/en/products/221820/sub-10/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scott Sub 10&lt;/a&gt; last year and use it almost every day for commuting doing around 12 miles a day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say I've done around 2000 miles since purchasing it last Summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to take it in to get serviced soon as I feel the wheels need to be straightened and other things aught to get looked at.... as sometimes the gear (Shimano Alfine, 8 spd IGH) slips when I put it into 8th gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was surprised the bike didn't come with much in the way of instructions about servicing the hub since it came with guides for most of the other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to one bike shop and they quoted £140 for the hub to get serviced, which seemed a bit excessive until I went and looked at how much the official Shimano servicing kit costs alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to service this myself as I think it'll be a good lesson to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone have any experience of advice for doing this? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What tools will I require?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What lubrication is recommended? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any guides?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2105" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T21:54:54.443" Title="Advice for servicing a Scott Sub 10 [8 speed Alfine hub gear]" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14353" CreationDate="2013-02-06T21:42:46.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally think that the wear issue is not as simple as one size chain being better than the other.  Whilst this may be the case, it will all depend on the quality of the products involved ie cog, chainring and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6081" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T21:42:46.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-07T00:34:24.590" Score="1" ViewCount="31349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 7-speed indexed twist-grip gear-shifter, but it was set up incorrectly: it has eight positions, the fourth is where the numbers start showing, and while it hits the top and bottom gears, it has an 'empty' click that takes it from top gear to top gear and it skips from ring 3 to ring 5 with just one click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read the response to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10981/how-can-i-adjust-index-shifter-so-it-doesnt-skip-the-second-chainring&quot;&gt;How can I adjust index shifter so it doesn&amp;#39;t skip the second chainring?&lt;/a&gt; but this is a 7 speed shifter (masquerading as an 8 speed and a 6 speed), not a 3 speed, so I don't believe the answer there applies here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the twister is giving too much cable for each click (like a 6 speed shifter) and has its own position limiters which allow extra travel (like an 8 speed shifter). I've fiddled with the top and bottom limit screws on the derailleur, and with the [barrel] that simultaneously changes where ALL the indexes locate, but while I can get it somewhat aligned for all sprockets, it still does the 'not quite engaging properly' thing for a few of them, and I still have extra clicks at top and bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I reduce the amount of cable each click gives? There's an intriguingly yellow 'c-deck plus' sticker on the twist-grip that looks like it's hiding a screw, and a couple of tiny Allen key looking things that I'm guessing are holding the unit together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: the shifter declares itself to be a 7-speed shifter on the front, and the part number bit towards the back reads 'Shimano SL-RS43-7 Singapore 22.2' which mentions '7' so... presumably it's a 7-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know where to find the serial number of the rear cogset..?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6096" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T12:26:25.667" Title="How do I adjust my 7-speed Shimano SIS indexed shifter not to miss out one of the cogs?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-07T01:17:46.413" Score="89" ViewCount="280418" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is WD-40 really bad to apply on bikes? I was told so but still see people doing that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I saw WD-40 launching their new products of bike lubricant and degreaser. Did anybody try those?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5947" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T01:12:05.593" Title="Can I use WD-40 on my bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14372" CreationDate="2013-02-07T02:07:46.120" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;W&quot; in WD-40 stands for water and the &quot;D&quot; stands for displacement, and the 40 stands for the 40th. attempt at being successful with the product. WD-40 doesn't really lubricate much of anything. It's actually a de-greaser, so it will remove any lubricant from bicycle chains, cables and other pivot joints. If you're cleaning your chain for re-lubrication purposes with a product other than WD-40, then WD-40 will be fine to use. It's also said to &quot;rust proof&quot; items, but probably because of it's ability to displace water which commonly causes rust to form. I haven't tried any of the new products yet. They have a bike &quot;degreaser&quot;, a bike &quot;foaming wash&quot; and two different chain lubricants, as well as a frame protectant. It will be interesting to see some reviews about these new products as far as pricing and how well they work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorDisplayName="user4975" LastEditDate="2013-02-07T17:27:24.703" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T17:27:24.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14371" CreationDate="2013-02-07T02:26:21.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool web site&lt;/a&gt; is generally the first place to go for info on how to do different bike repairs/adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But adjusting a derailer is fairly simple if you understand the basic principles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you sorta ignore the shifter lever/handle and observe the derailer.  On it are two &quot;limit adjustments&quot; -- a &quot;low&quot; and a &quot;high&quot;.  These are generally setscrews of a sort.  One limits how far derailer can sift in the direction that the spring pulls it, while the other limits how far the cable can pull the derailer in the opposite direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You first need to get the cable slack (twist the cable &quot;barrel adjuster&quot; a bit if needed) and adjust the stop that the spring pushes against.  This stop should be adjusted so that the derailer centers the cable over (usually) the smallest cog.  Then use the shift lever/handle to get the cable tight and pull the derailer all the way in the other direction, against the other limit screw.  Adjust that screw to position the derailer over the large cog.  (You may need to adjust the shifter slightly as you make this adjustment, to keep the derailer tight against the limit screw.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only after adjusting the limit screws do you attempt to adjust the cable.  If you're lucky simply adjusting the &quot;barrel adjuster&quot; in the cable will get everything working right, but it may be necessary to loosen the cable clamp at the derailer and slide more/less cable through it, if the barrel adjuster doesn't have enough range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having done all this you'd generally ride it around a bit, then go back and recheck all the adjustments, fine-tuning them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T02:26:21.280" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14372" CreationDate="2013-02-07T02:26:43.247" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;WD-40 (original) can be used as a de-greaser on bike parts.  It is a bit harsher than other bike specific de-greasers, or common house hold degreasers (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.simplegreen.com/&quot;&gt;Simple Green&lt;/a&gt;) that are often used by bike mechanics but essentially does the same thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep it mind that it is &lt;em&gt;NOT&lt;/em&gt; a lubricant, but a de-greaser.  After using any de-greaser you want to wash the area with soap and water and then apply a lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used the WD-40 bike specific lubricants and don't have any complaints.  The wet lube held up well in a few nasty cyclocross races, and the dry lube is what I've been using on my &quot;indoor trainer&quot; bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have thrown a lot of money into the launch of these products over the last few months and I expect that with this type of support, their products will become a household name in the bike space in the coming years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5346" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T02:26:43.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14353" CreationDate="2013-02-07T03:41:48.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just from personal experience 1/8&quot; chains are less forgiving to any misalignment with the chain-ring and cog. You can really feel it (and hear it) if you place a 1/8th chain over an 3/32&quot; chain-ring/cog. Constant use in that manner leads to things breaking, even if it's just your sanity over the clicks and pops you can hear as you pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, because 3/32&quot; are more flexible, they seem to keep quiet and hide your misalignment issue. I've only ever broken one chain-ring and it was a 3/32&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, a perfectly set chain setup at 1/8&quot; I believe would outlive an 3/32&quot; setup. Or at least has so far on my fixed gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6098" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T03:41:48.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14372" CreationDate="2013-02-07T04:03:38.020" Score="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;WD-40 is mostly a solvent with a very light lubricant mixed in. It's great for getting stuck parts moving again. When you spray it on, the solvent dislodges whatever gunk may be causing the part to stick and then evaporates, leaving a light lubricant behind. This will allow the previously stuck part to move again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it is generally not considered a good bicycle lubricant is because it is a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;light&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; lubricant. It's just fine for household items like door hinges, which aren't exposed to weather and don't get moved a couple hundred times a minute. But the lubricant is not thick enough to adhere to rapidly moving bike parts for any length of time, especially when you add a little bit of road grit and/or rain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people do use it for loosening up shifters in the winter time (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6434/sti-shifter-sometimes-doesnt-catch-in-cooler-weather&quot;&gt;they stick when it's cold&lt;/a&gt;) or cleaning chains and derailleurs. You will notice in the answers and comments on the aforelinked question, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6434/sti-shifter-sometimes-doesnt-catch-in-cooler-weather&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, that whether or not this is good practice is highly debatable. Some people will use WD-40 as a cleaner and degreaser followed by a bicycle-specific lubricant, with or without a cleaning inbetween, depending on personal preferences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any experience with their bicycle-specific products, but they're a solid company that's been in the business of cleaning and lubricating mechanical parts for a long time. They also make Lava soap and 3-in-1 Oil, a product that was originally designed as a bicycle lubricant (although they did acquire both of those from other companies). I actually didn't know until I read this question that they were making bicycle-specific lubricants now. Given their history and the number of patents that they have to draw ideas and develop from, I'm certainly willing to give them a shot. The worst case scenario is that I have to clean it off and go back to my previous products. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T19:38:53.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9033" CreationDate="2013-02-07T05:53:27.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some diagrams and thoughts on wrong-way-riding:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.virtuousbicycle.com/BlogSpace/go-with-the-flow/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Go with the Flow &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6099" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-10-08T19:59:24.817" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T19:59:24.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14379" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-07T07:21:47.280" Score="-4" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am buying a cube hanzz pro freeride but I cant decide on the size. The dealer has only Medium size so I cant ride the large one. I am 182 cm tall 76kg and have step length of 89cm. What shall I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6101" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T10:54:37.547" Title="Size medium or large" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-02-08T18:19:03.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14362" CreationDate="2013-02-07T21:39:15.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd also check for stiff links in the chain.  Details of how to repair these can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/tight-link-repair-ct-3-ct-5-ct-6-ct-7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6081" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T21:39:15.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14362" CreationDate="2013-02-08T00:06:49.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers are most likely the correct solution (stiff link I'm guessing based on chain suck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But just in case you are using the term Powerlink in a generic way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipperman chains call their link &quot;connex&quot; and is directional, if you&#xA;put it on backward it can cause these jumps. The Wipperman Connex&#xA;linkages are reusable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRAM chains link is called a Powerlink and allows for easy connection&#xA;and removal, but is not re-usable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2013-02-08T00:23:13.780" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T00:23:13.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14362" CreationDate="2013-02-08T01:32:59.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're getting chain suck on the front sprocket after replacing the chain then almost certainly the front sprocket is &quot;hooked&quot;.  Small amounts of hook just cause the jockey to jump, but larger amounts cause suck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rear sprocket can be cured of chain suck by replacing the chain, but the opposite is true for the front sprocket, since it's being &quot;peeled&quot; by the weak tension of the derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T01:32:59.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14319" CreationDate="2013-02-08T03:41:14.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely. Hence the term &quot;city slickers&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicks on the road will mean a faster, quieter, soother and more comfy ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also depends on how long your commute is &amp;amp; if you like going off-road on the weekends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6111" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T03:41:14.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5990" CreationDate="2013-02-08T04:10:14.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first and so far only fixed gear was the &lt;a href=&quot;http://khsbicycles.com/05_flite_100_08.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KHS Flite 100&lt;/a&gt;, which I got for about $500.  Let me say I LOVE that bike, and I still ride it today. It comes with everything you need, it's super light, quick, and responsive, just very very fun all around.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about I year here's some things I upgraded... I put some studded platform pedals on it with some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.burrobags.com/products/chronic-pedal-straps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Burro foot straps&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6112" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T04:10:14.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14305" CreationDate="2013-02-08T06:47:02.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing that you have to watch out for, when switching to slimmer tiers is the turning.&#xA;I used to make very steep turns with my mountain bike. The first day on a touring bicycle, I ended biting the asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second you have to be careful with jumping of sidewalks and potholes. Most likely your new bicycle doesn't have a suspension, and excessive tension can result in damage in the rims (especially if they are a cheap model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely you will have longer breaking distance. It is very important to know how fast you can come to a complete stop, especially if you are riding on the road. Needless to say, cars can break very VERY fast (first hand or should I say &quot;head first&quot; experience).&#xA;I recommended buying a computer, so that you can measure your speed. I prefer not to exceed 30kmh in urban environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slimmer tires require higher pressure, which has to be regulated during summer and winter.&#xA;Check this links: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10540/unsure-of-proper-tire-pressure&quot;&gt;link1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pressure-calculator.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T06:47:02.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14392" CreationDate="2013-02-07T23:36:51.097" Score="7" ViewCount="762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going cycle touring and I am packing a first aid kit to take with me. What items are essential to have in there, and what items are 'extra'? I have found it difficult to find clear information about this. I am thinking to take the usual: painkillers, fluid replacement, sterile swabs, cold medicines, anti-histamines, diarrhoea medicine. What else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" OwnerDisplayName="Andrew Welch" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-02-08T16:00:59.123" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T16:51:56.460" Title="I am going cycle touring. What should I carry in my first aid kit?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-02-08T18:33:24.413" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14379" CreationDate="2013-02-08T10:54:37.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest trying another dealer and taking your potential next bike for a spin. They should allow at least ride in their parking lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike sizing is important, do not try to save a buck buying a bike which does not fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T10:54:37.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14388" CreationDate="2013-02-08T12:30:15.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First and foremost, a few spares of any medications you may need for conditions you have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gauze pads, tape, and antibiotic ointment for &quot;road rash&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A few assorted adhesive bandages.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydrocortisone ointment, for insect bites and &quot;butt burn&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably some aspirin or other OTC pain med/NSAID.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some money (seriously).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunblock and insect repellant don't really count as &quot;first aid&quot; items, but you should have them, generally in a different location, for easy access and in case of leakage.  You may also want ear plugs, if you'll be sleeping in tight quarters with other bikers, and snoring borthers you a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also not in the &quot;first aid&quot; category but worthwhile is &quot;butt butter&quot;, especially if you wear standard biking shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In at least 5000 miles of multi-day touring I've only ever needed the road rash stuff, sunblock, insect repellant, hydrocortisone, and aspirin (to help me sleep), plus decongestants that I take for a congenital condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-02-08T16:51:56.460" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T16:51:56.460" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2013-02-08T13:46:47.860" Score="14" Body="&lt;h1&gt;keeping your face warm while winter bike commuting&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend ski googles and Seirus &quot;Masque&quot; over a balaclava. This mask only covers the bottom half of your face, and can be paired with merino wool hat worn underneath a helmet. This is more versatile, as you can remove the mask, but still wear the hat off-bike. I also use a scarf underneath my jacket to make sure there's a good seal to keep the wind out. For my kids, I still use a balaclava for simplicity on very cold days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5286/5329164824_e814d2573b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Googles and Facemask&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8046/8107256041_af887e6682.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hat under helmet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;keeping your feet warm while winter bike commuting&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For keeping your feet warm, I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.overshoesneos.com/product1.html&quot;&gt;NEOS overshoes&lt;/a&gt;. They go over your normal shoes, keeping your shoes and pant legs dry and clean. Even the non-insulated options add warmth due to the layering. I like the Voyager model, which is also light and packable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Keeping your hands warm while winter bike commuting&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If putting your hands someplace warm doesn't work well enough, you can try a little &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikes-as-transportation.com/cayenne-for-winter-warmth/&quot;&gt;cayenne to improve your circulation&lt;/a&gt;. A small amount can go in your gloves (or socks!) It has worked for me. This worked for my son:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8334/8421336769_6417a9c9be.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;keeping hands warm while winter bike commuting&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have another number of other &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikes-as-transportation.com/category/winter-cycling/&quot;&gt;winter cycling&lt;/a&gt; articles on my blog if you'd like to read more about my experiences and gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T13:46:47.860" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2013-02-08T17:53:32.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ski goggles with double paned lenses with a wide field of vision are best for winter if fog is an issue. The double panes help avoid condensation due to the air barrier between the lenses (and the fact that most double pane goggles also have anti-fog treatment helps as well).  Additionally, they are more enclosed, which keep your eyes from tearing up due to the chilling air at very low temperatures.  Some ski goggles have really terrible peripheral vision though, so shop around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For warmer days, I tend to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00009363J&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MSA Safety Works&lt;/a&gt; safety goggles with anti fog coating that work well and have good peripheral coverage without obscuring my vision. They sit far enough off my face that they prevent fog when I'm stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wool balaclavas are good to protect your ears and neck, while being breathable enough to stop you from sweating too much.  You have to see what works for you for setup of the balaclava, sometimes it can direct your breath from your nose up in to your glasses or goggles. Some people leave their nose exposed. Some people prefer a neoprene mask for face protection instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bern helmets or other less vented commuter helmets such as nutcase or giro reverb tend to work well in winter time since they don't have as much extreme airflow.  For regular helmets, you can tape over vents or get helmet rain covers to reduce the chilling effect. I prefer to use a bern watts helmet with a smartwool balaclava.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as shoes, If you prefer not to wear cycling shoes, then boots with wool socks (no synthetic or cotton in really cold weather) and platform pedals are the best option.  You can add supplemental heat with chemical toe warmers or insoles (I prefer the insoles). You can also add windproof overboots to your current setup if you're still too cold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ski Gloves or Lobster Mitts (looks like 2 double wide fingers and thumb) are good for drop bar setups, but if you have flat bars you might even be able to get away with full mittens. Gloves with a breathable, but windproof shell is preferred.  I often use ski gloves with hand warmer pockets, so that I can use chemical hand warmers on really cold days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T17:53:32.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14396" CreationDate="2013-02-09T00:27:43.903" Score="0" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;In E.T. the bicycles fly. In old films we see some inventors try to construct a bicycle which flies, with wings similar to a bird's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yogi bear has a flying ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the picture above the site.  The rider is at top of the hill. but if the bicyle could fly he could go anywhere, like Willy Wonka's elevator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has any flying bicycle been invented yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user6121" LastEditorDisplayName="user6121" LastEditDate="2013-02-09T19:57:07.123" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T19:57:07.123" Title="Is there any bicycle that can fly?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-02-09T03:25:37.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14395" CreationDate="2013-02-09T01:16:18.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first human-powered, fixed-wing aircraft flew in 1961, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SUMPAC&quot;&gt;SUMPAC&lt;/a&gt;. Several other such craft were flown in the 60's and 70's, including the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.donaldmonroe.com/pedaling.html&quot;&gt;Gossamer Condor&lt;/a&gt;, which won the prestigious &lt;a href=&quot;http://aerosociety.com/About-Us/specgroups/Human-Powered&quot;&gt;Kremer Prize&lt;/a&gt; for human-powered flight. All of these were powered by a human pedaling, like on a bicycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An aircraft with wings that flap like a bird's is called an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ornithopter&quot;&gt;Ornithopter&lt;/a&gt;. None that I can find were capable of getting into the air on their own. Early, unmanned ornithopters were powered by large rubber bands or gunpowder charges. The first verified human-powered ornithopter flew in 1929, but it too was towed into the air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T01:16:18.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14395" CreationDate="2013-02-09T03:23:56.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you consider a bike and what you consider flight this helicopter may qualify: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/emK-qIbuJ-k?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T03:23:56.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-09T11:39:11.673" Score="4" ViewCount="1553" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain on my internally geared hub bicycle is now too long even when the rear wheel is entirely pulled back. How do I tell whether it's sufficient to shorten the chain by removing some links, or if I need to buy a new chain altogether?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done 14335 km (8907 mi) and the chain is a Rohloff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T00:21:16.110" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T00:57:26.280" Title="Shorten or replace bicycle chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-09T11:44:47.463" Score="9" ViewCount="21912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might need to replace my bicycle chain (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/14398/2916&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;). The store where I've bought components before (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclecomponents.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cyclecomponents.com&lt;/a&gt;) seems to be entirely marketed to derailleurs, and I have an internally geared hub. Can I buy one of their chains as long as the size is correct, or are there some fundamental differences between the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T23:12:21.613" Title="Apart from the size, is there any difference between chains for derailleurs or for single-speed / internally geared hubs?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7801" CreationDate="2013-02-09T12:01:01.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of this workout are you 'smoked'? If so, then these are 'anaerobic endurance' intervals. Some training plans suggest just starting these 6-8 weeks before your first &quot;A race&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some plans suggest you work on &quot;muscular endurance&quot; first with long fairly hard efforts = 10m plus - then 6-8 weeks prior add anaerobic endurance intervals. The two biggest abilities for MTB are said to be muscular and anaerobic endurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2011/01/build-period-overview.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2011/01/build-period-overview.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6124" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T12:01:01.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14398" CreationDate="2013-02-09T12:05:00.910" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this chain has been on it for nearly 9000 miles - I'd suggest a new one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could shorten it, but the wear is on the link connectors, so the sapcing is going to be wider than it should be - thus wearing the sprockets!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T12:05:00.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14399" CreationDate="2013-02-09T13:28:54.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A derailleur-style chain needs to be more flexible, side-to-side. Not that such flexibility will cause problems on a single-speed setup. Also, newer derailleur setups need for the chain pins to project slightly, to facilitate indexed shifting. This is not needed (but harmless) in a single-speed setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T13:28:54.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-09T19:14:21.443" Score="1" ViewCount="1035" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would you recommend for a good grip from Shimano Nexus shifter? I hardly find a good option. Ergon grips seem to be the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4629" LastEditorUserId="721" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T10:17:37.663" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T10:17:37.663" Title="Grip for Shimano Nexus hub gear shifter" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;grips&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14403" CreationDate="2013-02-09T20:29:47.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Choosing a grip is a matter of personal preference. If you're worried about the fact that the Nexus shifters require a smaller grip on one side than the other (due to the shifter taking up room), you can get grips that are made to mate with an internal hub shifter like the Nexus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, since these can be difficult to locate, you can cut down the grip on one side with a hacksaw blade. That's what I did on one of my folding bikes, and it worked fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be sure to cut the grip in a straight line. You can mark the location of the cut with masking tape or painters tape before sawing to get an even edge. The edge will be slightly rougher, but since it'll be sitting up against the shifter it won't be very visible. If you want to cut down a non-locking grip, you can probably do something similar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T20:29:47.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-09T20:39:54.767" Score="9" ViewCount="9272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following Schwinn bike pump. It’s pretty old, perhaps 30 years or more. I like it a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNtVU.jpg&quot; height=&quot;400&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some years ago, I changed to Presta valves; for this I needed a new head. I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FIE4JK&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Topeak SmartHead Bicycle Floor Pump Upgrade Kit&lt;/a&gt;, which is a replacement head and hose with a number of different adapters. Unfortunately, none of them fit this pump, so I just hacked off most of the worn-out stock hose and spliced in the Topeak hose (one of the adapters is designed for this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every so often, the splice begins to leak because the stock hose cracks a little. This is easily repaired by cutting off another 5mm and re-splicing, but obviously that's not sustainable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some close-up views of the threads, and also the gauge for ID purposes. That's a AAA battery for scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Is9CH.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0GfH9.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2uDm0.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: where can I find something that will screw into the threads in the base of the pump and somehow lead to a modern Presta pump head?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2020-09-09T00:01:17.040" Title="How can I properly replace the hose on this older Schwinn pump?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14399" CreationDate="2013-02-09T20:40:10.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summary: It might work. You have to check. It's easier/better to find a single-speed chain, since they're easy to find and not more expensive than a multi-speed chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's actually &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; size differences&lt;/strong&gt; between chains for singlespeed/internally-geared bikes and chains for derailleur bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The obvious is &lt;strong&gt;length&lt;/strong&gt;: A chain installed on a singlespeed bike is likely a lot shorter than a chain installed on a derailleur bike. The chains might be sold at the same length, but you shorten the SS chain a lot more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Width&lt;/strong&gt;: a Singlespeed chain is 1/4-inch (6.35mm) wide, while a derailleur chain is 3/16-inch (4.76mm) wide. (There's actually more variance in width of derailleur chain due to different gearing setups)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that the &lt;strong&gt;pitch is the same&lt;/strong&gt;, meaning that the distance between pins is the same and the number of links in a given distance is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the width difference of the chain, often sprockets made for a single-speed/internally-geared bike are wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, &lt;strong&gt;it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work&lt;/strong&gt;, but it might not. Look carefully at the old chain when it's on the sprockets, and look at how the teeth fit in between the inner plates of the chain. If it looks like a tight fit with no clearance, you need a singlespeed chain. If it looks like you could almost fit a second tooth in the wide gap, you could probably make do with a derailleur-chain. Make sure to check front and back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There happens to be two SS/internally-geared bikes in my garage, so I went and looked. One (the cheaper one) looks like the teeth are narrow enough that any chain would work, while the other has thicker teeth that just fit between the inner platesand I doubt a derailleur chain would work on it. I think it'd be fine in the front on both bikes, it's just the back on the internally-geared bike with teeth a bit too thick for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It probably doesn't matter for your usage, but it's also possible with singlespeed chains to get some options that aren't available on derailleur chains, such as half-link, decoratively colored outer-plates, super-heavy-duty chains, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some other differences with derailleur chains, such as flexibility, pins, etc. But no differences that matter for putting a derailleur chain on a single-speed bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T20:40:10.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14398" CreationDate="2013-02-09T20:50:56.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A chain with this many miles on it almost certainly has a large amount of what's called &quot;chain stretch&quot;. As chains wear, the distance in between the link gaps increases. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#stretch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page on chain maintenance&lt;/a&gt; will tell you more than you need to know on the subject.) When this gets past a certain point, the chain needs to be replaced. If this isn't done, increased wear to the drivetrain sprockets almost certainly will result, since the chain no longer fits over the sprockets properly. (Since this is bike has an IGH, this problem will still exist but to a lesser degree, due to the lack of derailer gears.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend you not only replace your chain but also have the sprocket and chainring examined; they may need to be replaced as well. Once this is done, you'll notice the bike shifts more smoothly and works better in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T00:57:26.280" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T00:57:26.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14399" CreationDate="2013-02-09T23:12:21.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see a few different sizes of chain, broken down as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;1/8 inch wide chain&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt; Single Speed / Internal Hub only, don't use with a standard derailleur.&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Can fit on 1/8 inch or 3/32 inch chainrings and cassettes. It will have some play when installed with a 3/32 chainring or cassette, but it's usable. So, if you accidentally buy an 1/8 in chain and have smaller chainrings, you can still use the 1/8 inch wide chain.&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;3/32 inch wide chain&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Used for single speed or derailleur bikes.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speced to be used for specific number of gears on the rear cassette, 6/7/8 speed, 9 speed, and 10 speed are most common sizes.  You typically want this number to match the chain (it matters more on 9, 10, or 11 speed clusters since the chainrings tend to vary slightly in width and tooth shape so they work better with the narrower spacing on the rear cassette and require more lateral flexibility.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I typically use 6/7/8 speed chains for my bikes that have single speed, fixed gear, or internally geared hubs that have 3/32 cogs since they tend to be cheaper than the 9, 10, or 11 speed chains since they don't need to be as flexible and will usually have a pretty straight chainline.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/8 inch cogs/chainrings will not fit a smaller 3/32 chain.&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T23:12:21.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14334" CreationDate="2013-02-10T00:07:08.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you asked about deep section rims in particular, I'd like to address why deep section rims are more durable in general and tend to stay true.  When a wheel rolls, the part directly directly above the riding surface is deflected inward (toward the hub) slightly.   If it is deflected enough, the spokes in the deflected section may become slack.  When a spoke becomes slack, it can loosen - and that's the most common way wheels go out of true.  The reason a deep section wheel is helpful is that the deeper cross section is much stiffer, i.e. harder to deflect, than a rim with a shallow depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strongest, most durable wheels have deep section rims, lots of spokes (think 32 and up) along with a well designed hub.  Their butted spokes are uniformly tight and have quite a bit of tension.  The spokes also need to be stress relieved during the building process.  Lastly, all else being equal, smaller wheels will be stronger than larger wheels, so if it's an option and makes sense for your riding goals, you may want to consider MTB wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I'd look at Velocity deep V rims with at least 32 spokes, brass nipples, and something like DT Swiss Competition spokes.  I hear Wheelsmith and Sapim also make some excellent spokes.  Find a really good, experience wheel builder.  Peter White Cycles makes wheels that he guarantees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer is based on 1) my 30 years of riding bikes included loaded touring tandems and lots of commuting/utility riding 2) building a number of wheels over the years and never having to true any of them even once  3) the advice and analysis given by Jobst Brandt (an engineer) in his excellent book &quot;The Bicycle Wheel&quot; and, for what it's worth, 4) I was a mechanical engineer myself for a number of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6128" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T00:07:08.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-10T17:14:17.483" Score="5" ViewCount="2511" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rocklube.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rock N Roll Gold&lt;/a&gt; bike lube seems to get solid or gelatenous when stored on my unheated, but enclosed porch at colder temperatures.  Is a chain lubricated with this product still going to be sufficiently lubricated when riding in freezing (below 0c or 32f) temperatures?  Should I find a different cold weather alternative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T21:51:19.863" Title="Cold weather chain lube?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14405" CreationDate="2013-02-10T18:12:32.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A search online turned up nothing for a pump that old. If you have a model number or something else that identifies the pump, that may help get better answers. There are plenty of replacement hoses out there, but the photos don't really show a closeup of the threaded connection to the pump base. The only thing I can think of, would be to take the pump and the hose connection piece to an automotive shop where they can make their own high pressure hose fittings for vehicle applications like air conditioning type hoses. You would obviously need a smaller diameter hose, but it's possible they have smaller hoses for other high pressure applications. They may already have a threaded fitting that will work, or know where to get one. If they have or can get the fitting, then the correct diameter and length of hose should be easy. This would likely cost twice as much or more than you paid for the pump, but if it's a favorite, it may be worth it to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T18:12:32.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-10T18:25:39.443" Score="11" ViewCount="738" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/14398/2916&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; gather that after 14335 km (8907 mi) of cycling with a single chain, the cog is at risk of being damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't noticed anything unusual apart from the chain being too long. How do I tell if my cog needs replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K3z1u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chainring&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;sup&gt;My rear cog on a Rohloff Speedhub&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L5KY9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;different view&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Different angle, close-up&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T08:42:41.563" Title="How do I tell if my cog needs replacing?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14398" CreationDate="2013-02-10T21:01:03.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was an externally geared bike I would say replace it. Given that it's an internally geared bike and therefore basically a singlespeed in terms of what the chain touches, I would be less inclined to change it. You can run a chain on a single speed fr a very, very long time without issues. The components will all wear together and yes you will likely have to replace the chainring, cog, and chain all at the same time but you can get away with lots more miles on a single setup without any adverse effects compared to an externally geared configuration&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T21:01:03.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-11T00:07:06.147" Score="4" ViewCount="4203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought and installed a set of pre-bled hydraulic brakes onto my bike to replace the mechanical discs that came with it. My future plan is to buy a new bike, transfer the brakes to my wife's bike and replace the old discs onto my bike and sell it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime I have a very long rear line, about 30cm extra, that I'm struggling to manage. I've looped it and cable tied it on both sides of the loop, once back on itself and again to the front brake line. Unfortunately this solution slips a lot so I'm looking for a better one. At this stage performance of the brakes seems ok with this method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a better solution or is getting them shortened by my LBS the way to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T11:19:52.727" Title="How to deal with long pre-bled brake line?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14414" CreationDate="2013-02-11T04:43:59.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shortening the hoses isn't much more than a 10 minute job on most models. You'll need either a bike shop, or some nice cutters and a new olive and insert which will cost a dollar/pound or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, as these are moving to a new bike, I'd leave them be and do a more thorough job of looping them until you can measure them on the new bike. What are you using, my first stop would be zip ties and if that slips still, duct/duck tape. When you move them, a little alcohol will lift any sticky mess that's left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wont hurt the performance of the brakes unless you kink the hose. Don't do that. They'll want replacing if you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T04:43:59.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14412" CreationDate="2013-02-11T04:51:34.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick way, is to just have a little look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a new chain meshes nicely and there are no funny sounds or any skipping when it turns, then it's good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has some examples of worn cogs and how to spot them &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T04:51:34.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-11T06:54:03.147" Score="4" ViewCount="32636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tighten the bolt super hard. Ride for a while. Then it comes loose again. I don't know if its my BB or the bolts. How can this be fixed??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6134" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T18:12:00.697" LastActivityDate="2019-05-01T18:17:57.447" Title="Why does my non-drive side crank arm come loose?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-11T09:45:51.320" Score="5" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;The company I work for provides cycle racks for cyclists in a semi underground carpark that is open at one side. Several cycles have been stolen from this area and one colleage was attacked by a bike thief who he surprised. Another was threatened on another occasion.&#xA;The company refuses to install a gated caged area or secure entrance to the car park, does the company have a duty to provide a safe parking area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6135" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T19:50:24.497" Title="Employer Duty of Care for cyclist" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14417" CreationDate="2013-02-11T12:20:39.197" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;non-drive&quot; I assume you mean the left side.  This is more apt to come loose than the right because of &quot;precession&quot; -- most crank bolts are right-hand thread on both sides, but the motion of the crank arm relative to the shaft tends to loosen the bolt on the left side, whereas it tends to tighten the bolt on the right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if this is occurring it's because there IS motion between the crank arm and the shaft.  This should not be, as the two should fit together so tightly as to prevent any motion.  What has no doubt happened is that the bolt was installed too loosely at one point, the crank arm worked loose, and now the socket of the arm is misshapened so the two tend to move relative to each other all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using some Loctite (the &quot;removable&quot; variety) on the bolt will help temporarily, but ultimately something must be done about the misfit between the two parts.  Basically either the arm must be replaced (and the shaft, if the situation goes on for too long), or (if this is a square shaft) you must carefully fashion a shim (perhaps out of aluminum pop can material) to create a better fit.  (If it's a splined shaft you're probably SOL.)  And regularly re-tighten the bolt -- don't wait for it to get loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T16:44:12.060" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T16:44:12.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14414" CreationDate="2013-02-11T16:54:02.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the other answer says, if this brake system is going to be transferred to another bike, it is better left with complete length hoses and shorten them when put in the new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What i suggest is to find a better way or a better spot to tie them looped. Cable ties should work fine enough, but if the hose is too stubborn or slippery, you might add a loop of duct tape around the hose in two points that once looped will get in touch. This will create friction between the hose itself and the cable tie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AS for the spot to tie them, For the rear brake I sugest tie it in a loop as big as possible in a side of the front triangle (i.e. between and tied to at least two os the following: seat tube, topt tube, down tube). With two attachment points against the frame it is almost sure it wont move. Three points would be even better. For example, if the normal cabling route goes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the front brake I sugest to route the hose towards the middle of the handlebar and tie it near the stem-handlebar joint. Loop it down and back to the stem-handlebar joint. Use two ties, one for the hose coming from the lever and other for the hose going out of the loop. When you look it from the front it will appear lika an &quot;O&quot; hanging from the stem. Add a tie at 3 O'clock (or 9 O'clock) where the hose separates from the loop. That will keep the &quot;O&quot; shape a little neater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the hose keeps slipping out, use bigger size of ties. The small ones stretch easily.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use some protection on the frame to avoid friction damage to the finishing. There are comercially available frame protectors, but you may be able to fashion them out of old inner tube, foamy or cloth, warped around tubes and held up with the same ties.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tie the hoses in such way that normal steering, pedaling and suspension movement (if applicable) is not interferred and it does not push against / pull from the tie points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T16:54:02.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2013-02-11T20:22:45.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seal Skins makes a thermal, waterproof sock that I've used for years.  Sure my shoes get wet, but my feet and regular socks stary warm and dry, plus there's no problem clicking into my pedals or sliding into toeclips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6139" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T20:22:45.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14418" CreationDate="2013-02-11T20:54:35.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live the employer would have an obligation under law to &quot;Take all practical steps&quot;, however, one practical step for the employer is to remove the bike racks, as these are attracting the thieves, thus, the employer has addressed the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not think you want to go quoting various legislation at them. The better way is to sell the benefits of people biking (reduce number of car, healthier people- less time off work (careful here -  accidents can count against you, happier more lively people - more productive when at work.). Sell the benefits of not have low life-cruising company car parks (it's not only cyclists who will get attacked) - they might take a liking to the bosses car.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say they refused - how and what did you ask for? Did you leave room to negotiate, to did you demand a they provide a solution to your problem? Was the refusal from one person (say a low level facilities manager), or from the Executive/Senior management team? &#xA;A flat refusal with no good reason would seem unlikely to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T20:54:35.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14418" CreationDate="2013-02-11T21:12:35.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I worked in the US, our company furnished a parking area for bicycles, but it was up to the owner to secure their bicycle with a lock if they wished to deter any theft of the bike. The area for bikes was right in the same location of the vehicle parking, so the bike parking was visible from anywhere at the front of the plant. I would think that any company no matter where they were located can furnish an area for bicycles, but should not be held reaponsible for stolen bicycles or damage to bikes on their property. In my opinion, this bicycle parking area you describe is in an area that is accessable by a thief, but in an area that is too quiet and provides a thief with the solitude needed to break a bicycle lock unnoticed by anyone passing by. Quiet/darkened areas are very condusive for having a bicycle or anything else stolen. Maybe the company would consider installing a security camera and better lighting that covers this area, if they have someone to monitor the camera. If you can find a safer place with more pedestrian traffic nearby, that would possibly deter a bicycle thief from having &quot;private time&quot; to work on stealing a bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T21:12:35.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14446" CreationDate="2013-02-11T22:07:38.793" Score="2" ViewCount="966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been running a non-brand name full carbon saddle for less than a year.  It lasted through a couple of crashes and 'cross season.  But when my usual ride stopped for coffee, I found out both rails failed.  When in alignment, the saddle held enough to get me home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The break was right at the point where the Thomson Masterpiece clamp mechanism starts, not far behind the nose of the saddle.  Is there anything to be aware of about where the rails broke?   The seatpost is offset - does this mean I should be running a seatpost without an offset?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expected the failure at some point, just want to be sure there isn't anything I'm missing before shopping for a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T20:23:50.620" Title="Saddle Rail Failure?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;rails&gt;&lt;failure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-11T22:36:45.100" Score="3" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago, I made the newbie mistake of forcing a rack screw into a steel braze-on. I had to replace that fork. And I've heard this advice many times: When putting a screw into a braze-on, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1112/8&quot;&gt;put a little lube on the screw&lt;/a&gt; to keep rust from forming. So I take good care of rack screws and braze-ons now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was putting fenders and racks back on a bike today, and I had finished cleaning the screws and eyelets. When I reached into my tool bag for some lube, I realized I had regular bike lube as well as polylube. (That's the goopy stuff you use for seatposts.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried polylube on a pair of 5mm screws and regular lube on a set of 4mm screws. Over time, I'll see which set of threads is cleaner, or if there's any difference at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using Parktool Polylube 1000 and Prolink Chainlube (regular lube, not wax). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question:&lt;/strong&gt; Is there a difference between using regular bike lube and polylube to lubricate threads? Can polylube be harmful in this context? Or should I be using something else entirely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T02:12:39.000" Title="Lubricating screw/braze-on threads: Bike lube or polylube?" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;braze-on&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-11T23:40:47.670" Score="2" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a univega and a fixie. i love the idea of fixed gear bikes but live in a very hilly area which requires more than just one gear. Is there a way to combined those two ideas into one awesome cycling machine? comments are appreciated. thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6140" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T09:34:20.000" Title="can a single sprocket be locked on a road bike?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14427" CreationDate="2013-02-11T23:43:42.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same dilemma and the best idea I came up with is a fixed internal gear hub. Sturmey Archer make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sturmey-archer.com/products/hubs/cid/3/id/47&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3-speed fixed hub&lt;/a&gt; that looked the goods. The way this works is that there's still no freewheel (the same as a fixie) but there's a gear cable coming out of the hub that allows you to select between 3 gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bike it looks a little like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QpT8Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sturmey archer 3 speed hub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit pricey, but on the right bike this could be awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2013-02-12T00:34:50.607" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T00:34:50.607" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-11T23:48:23.390" Score="3" ViewCount="13187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the past year, my road bike's crankset has gotten pretty bent up and out of wack. Not due to abuse, just wear and tear I guess.  It's pretty bent and has a nice wobble that I can see as I look down at it while pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm interested in replacing the crankset. But I've read there are various rules of thumb to follow when replacing cranksets, chains and cassettes. When you replace one you have to replace the other or something along those lines. Something about teeth wearing evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to replace anything else if I replace my crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T22:39:24.510" Title="Replacing Crankset. Do I need to replace chain? Then do I need to replace cassette?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14429" CreationDate="2013-02-12T01:49:00.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you replace the crankset you almost certainly get new front sprockets.  Compared to the cost of the crankset and sprockets a new chain is chicken feed, so get a new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you need to replace the rear cassette is a whole 'nother question, pretty much independent from the front.  If the cassette is badly worn it may cause your chain to wear slightly faster, but not enough to worry about.  And you may find that the rear shifts poorly with the new chain, or suffers some &quot;chain suck&quot;, but probably it will be OK, if it is now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T01:49:00.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14426" CreationDate="2013-02-12T01:57:47.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely the polylube -- for the same reasons you use it on your seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T01:57:47.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14429" CreationDate="2013-02-12T01:59:47.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your new crankset will have new chainrings so you'll be set on that front. It's also possible that you need to change your chain, cassette, or both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, as a chain stretches the cassette stretches with it. The chain rings on the crankset can stretch too but they take longer due to the stress being distributed across more teeth, thus less strain on any one tooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get an estimate of how much your chain has stretched by measuring a full link (which consists of two half links, an inner and an outer). They should measure exactly one inch. A tenth of an inch longer means it's worn and should be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't any really foolproof method that I know of for checking the wear on the rear cassette other than try it and see if it works. You can try to eyeball it, but that's not entirely accurate even if you know what you're looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all you could ever want to know, check out the always helpful Sheldon Brown. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T14:27:29.940" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T14:27:29.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14434" CreationDate="2013-02-12T04:01:30.723" Score="12" ViewCount="16161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a second hand bike and generally it's going well. However, there is a small amount of play in the headset that I've been trying to diagnose and resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a threadless fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've adjusted the tension by loosening the headstem bolts and tightening the top cap. I tighten it up a lot and this reduces the play a little, but when I brake hard or hit a bump I still get the 'clonk' as it moves to the limit of it's adjustability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html#overhaul&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article on Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; for the terminology I use below, particularly this photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2GOs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken some photos and have an idea of what the problem is. In this photo I've laid out from left to right the dust ring, followed by the compression ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wai3G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the compression ring is placed on the steerer tube, there is slight gap between them. It's maybe a millimeter, although I don't have anything to measure that with here. Watching the movement carefully I'm quite confident that it's this gap that's causing the steerer tube to clonk around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uEmxD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've measured the steerer and it's 28.6mm which is 1 1/8&quot; according to Sheldon's site linked above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why is there a space around the compression ring? What's the best way to resolve this? Do I just need to find a smaller compression ring somehow? Or is there something I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Updated: Added text to photo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm missing a part. If you look closely at the exploded graphic from Sheldon, the compression ring has a gap in it, allowing it to shrink onto the steerer tube and hold it firmly. My compression ring is solid, so nothing can shrink and grip. Kudos to Zen as well, since he mentions that it's a wedge. I'm going to have a look around at home to see if I can find the missing bits. Otherwise a new headset should sort it. Thanks all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2013-02-14T03:01:15.543" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T22:48:49.580" Title="How do I fix movement in headset" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14433" CreationDate="2013-02-12T09:00:37.050" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The compression ring is a wedge.  There will always be space and movement here, until the headset is assembled and adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you're missing a part. There should be another hoop with a wedge shape and a split. It's the split ring on the upper left in the image below. This part is what grips the steerer tube tight and will eliminate the clonking you're experiencing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmLbj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are confident that all the parts are there, and assembled in the correct order, then you have 3 likely reasons for movement:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first is that there is damage to the bearing cartridges.  This can show as movement when adjusted correctly, although usually on a headset it will fail first by being rough or crunchy feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, there may be movement between the frame and the headset cup, which can mean that the frame is in need of replacement.  This can't be fixed via adjustment.  There are ways to attempt a fix, but it is best looked at by a qualified mechanic, first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Last, there may be no movement in the headset, but you could be feeling movement in the brakes, depending on how you are checking for movement.  Try checking for movement by standing the bike on the rear wheel, turning the handlebar all the way to the left or right, and checking for movement with your hand around the headset.  That way if it is in the headset, you will feel it directly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2013-02-14T22:48:49.580" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T22:48:49.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14436" CreationDate="2013-02-12T11:15:54.623" Score="2" ViewCount="3193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got my first flat on my Cube hooper&#xA;It has 37 - 622 (28 x 1.40 - 700 x 35c) schwalbe tyres on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ordered the new tube online before pulling the old one off, picking what I thought were the same tubes but the numbers are slightly different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the 28 / 47 - 622 / 635 tubes i got ok to replace my 28 / 44 - 622 ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6142" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T13:51:38.363" Title="Are 28 / 47 - 622 / 635 tubes ok to replace my 28 / 44 - 622 ones?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14435" CreationDate="2013-02-12T11:30:35.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They would be perfectly fine. As their specification suggest (28 / 47 - 622 / 635 ) inner tubes can function in wide range of tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T11:30:35.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14410" CreationDate="2013-02-12T11:48:04.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be a regional thing, but here in Germany, many are happy with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballistol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ballistol&lt;/a&gt; applied as aerosol and not changed during the seasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a material science perspective, its viscosity is very low and has little temeprature dependence. It is also said that it is environmently friendly, to the extend that you can use it on pets, which I never tried as I found chains on my bike much more suitable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T11:48:04.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14427" CreationDate="2013-02-12T12:11:42.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from the Sturmey hub, the only other option I know of for a multi-speed fixed gear is something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/parts/dingle_cog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two sprockets on the rear, and two chainrings on the front, carefully chosen so they work with the same chain length. To change gear, you stop, get off, move the chain onto the other set of sprockets, then ride off again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you probably don't want to do that at the top and bottom of every hill, any more than you want to take off a wheel with a flip-flop hub and turn it around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T12:11:42.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14369" CreationDate="2013-02-12T12:33:01.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a variety of guides, reviews, etc. at &lt;a href=&quot;http://hubstripping.wordpress.com/alfine-shimano/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hubstripping.wordpress.com/alfine-shimano/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(Much of it in German, so you might need to feed it though Google Translate.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T12:33:01.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14412" CreationDate="2013-02-12T12:43:12.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sprockets (apart from the 13 tooth) are reversible, so you can get twice the life out of one by taking it off and using the other side of the teeth. From the photo it looks to me as if it's only worn in one direction so far, or at least significantly more worn in one direction.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/sprocket/index.html&quot;&gt;http://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/sprocket/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(From my experience with a 3 speed hub, a hub gear sprocket can be badly hooked without causing problems when run with an equally worn chain, long after the point where a derailleur wouldn't shift properly. I'm not &lt;em&gt;recommending&lt;/em&gt; that you let it get that worn though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T12:43:12.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14427" CreationDate="2013-02-12T13:05:49.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schlumpf.ch/hp/schlumpf/faq.getriebe.engl.htm#A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schlumf drive&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAoHK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Schlumf drive example&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Schlumpf drive is an ultra thin planetary gearing system located at the right end of the bottom bracket, between bottom bracket and right crankarm. Installation of a Schlumpf drive hardly changes [either the] position of the chain nor position of the crankarms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're probably expensive, but I don't think they have a freewheel. Plenty of people use them with hub gears for extra range. You tap the centre with your heel to shift - not as easy or quick as a lever on the bars, but they look pretty minimalist as they don't have any cables, which seems to jibe with the fixie way (if I've understood it right?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T09:34:20.000" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T09:34:20.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="512" CreationDate="2013-02-12T13:10:10.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sister works in Cardiff and one of her part time jobs is working with severally mentally disabled adults. She often takes them out on specially adapted bicycles/tricycles which in Cardiff there are a lot of trails and tracks to enable them to get around. Although this does not directly meet your requirements of fitting into your van they do offer other sort of mobility bikes which you can read more about the kind of bikes that are provided here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardiffpedalpower.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cardiffpedalpower.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2105" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T22:21:06.293" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T22:21:06.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14435" CreationDate="2013-02-12T13:51:38.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. They are in the specified range, they'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T13:51:38.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14433" CreationDate="2013-02-12T17:11:58.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't tell from the picture as it's not assembled to that point, but you should also make sure you have enough of a gap for the compression to be effective. Before you put on the top cap, the steer tube should be approx 5mm below whatever spacer, seal, etc that you have as the topmost element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is not enough space for complete you will get the symptom you describe (holds okay until you put sudden force to it and then it moves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the gap I'm referring to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(via: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TkH5h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;headset gap from Park Tools web&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastEditorUserId="1036" LastEditDate="2013-02-13T22:25:25.027" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T22:25:25.027" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14447" CreationDate="2013-02-12T19:55:19.197" Score="6" ViewCount="9641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was swapping the cranks and bottom bracket on my karate monkey from a Truvative stylo crankset (Mountain Double, GXP bottom bracket) to a Race Face Evolution DH (Mountain Triple, Race Face bottom bracket, It's Shimano Hollowtech II compatible I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the width (Q-factor?) of the Race Face triple crankset is wider than the Truvative Stylo.  If I install it and tighten the bolt, it looks to be 5mm+ of exposed space on the crank spindle and the crank arms can slide side to side through the bottom bracket since the spindle is so long.  I'm pretty sure my BB shell is 73mm (according to surly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to do to compensate for this space?  Spacers between BB Shell and BB Cup? How many spacers will I need, and of what size? Is there some common spec listed for the cranks that I should have been able to tell this from the start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T13:38:20.383" Title="Swapping cranks, but the new crank is wider, how do I compensate for this?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14425" CreationDate="2013-02-12T20:23:50.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first issue with carbon rail seat posts is the lack of a standard for rail diameters.  This often leads to the seat post clamp being improperly sized when compared to the saddle rail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the stress riser of a seat post clamp on carbon, an ill fitting seat post clamp can contribute un-necessary stress to the carbon rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon is much more likely to develop stress fractures due to over tension of a seat post clamp\stem clamp\etc than aluminum or steel.  Because of this, and the above situation, proper tension of the seat post clamp (along with an anti friction paste) is paramount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I don't think standard carbon rail seat posts are worth the hassle (of fitting them propertly, tensioning them properly, etc) of saving 20-40 grams.  Double so if you are doing any type of off road riding (like cross) where the external forces at play are magnified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5346" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T20:23:50.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14445" CreationDate="2013-02-12T21:06:22.413" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right, you want to space it between the shell and cup.  You can put spacers on either side to get the chainline right.  Most cranksets come with spacers (2.5 mm is probably the most useful size for you) but if yours didn't any LBS should have a few to sell you.  Something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket-spacer.html&quot;&gt;http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-bracket-spacer.html&lt;/a&gt; (I don't know if these work with hollowtech BB's or not)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably want to get an assortment of sizes if you can, and use as few as possible to get things lined up (I assume this would help maximize BB stiffness, but really I just hate having excessive spacers - makes it more likely I'll lose one when disassembling/reassembling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastEditorUserId="3016" LastEditDate="2013-02-12T21:14:04.273" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T21:14:04.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14429" CreationDate="2013-02-12T21:48:55.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a similar &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5043/if-i-replace-chainset-and-chain-should-i-replace-back-cassette-as-well&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; that addresses the chain\cassette question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is &lt;em&gt;it depends&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps I would follow in determining what to do if you were to bring your bike to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the crank is not loose (this can cause crank wobble).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure there are no loose  bolts that connect the crank to the chain rings (this can also cause wobble).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you need a new crank get one.  If you buy a crank that does not come with new chain rings (higher end cranks can be purchased without the chain rings) you'll probably want to purchase new ones (unless your current chain rings are not heavily worn\damaged).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your chain for wear.  A chain wear indicator tool is a great investment as it will save you from using a worn out chain (and possibly ruining your cassette and chain rings).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your chain needs to be replaced do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your cassette for wear.  There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebling.com/Rohloff-HG-IG-Cassette-Wear-Indicator-Tool-p/rohloff-chainchecker.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tools&lt;/a&gt; for this.  Your LBS can also check this.  If you have been using a worn out chain (step 5) for a while then there is a good possibility that it damaged your cassette.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5346" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T21:48:55.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9089" CreationDate="2013-02-12T21:59:22.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the bottom and shaved edges I use beeswax. Beeswax prevents absorption of moisture, air and dirt but sits on the surface of the leather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proofhide, while providing some waterproofing, penetrates the leather causing it to expand and stretch. Brooks recommends it only be used on the finished side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Hilo, HI, the rainiest city in the US. This, along with full-coverage fenders and the occasional shower cap cover, works best for me and my three bikes with Brooks saddles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6145" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T21:59:22.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14453" CreationDate="2013-02-12T22:48:49.980" Score="2" ViewCount="4013" Body="&lt;p&gt;First and foremost.. I'm slowly trying to replace my bottom bracket.. it makes a kind of knackered-bearings sound when I move the pedals round without the chain attached. This is because I've been bad and not washed my bike after cycling out in the rain, snow and gritted/salty roads. Whoops :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek 1.5 2011 with a compact chain ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having great difficulty identifying what sort of bottom bracket it has. I believe the crank is an FSA Vero, 50/34 if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the manufacturer does not provide any information on the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I identify for sure what I have, what I need to get, and what tools I'll need to replace it? I really don't want to start spending lots of money on the wrong tools and the wrong parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be massively appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&#xA;John.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T23:10:24.083" Title="Identifying bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-12T23:00:27.820" Score="10" ViewCount="2017" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever successfully converted a recumbent bicycle or tricycle to hand-powered?  How?  What are the major obstacles to overcome?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6146" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2018-01-29T22:05:45.557" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T22:05:45.557" Title="Convert Recumbent to Handcycle?" Tags="&lt;recumbent&gt;&lt;adaptive&gt;&lt;handcycle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14450" CreationDate="2013-02-12T23:08:11.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;FSA Vero uses a standard JIS square taper bottom bracket. You can measure and see what size your existing bottom bracket is, see related question on how to measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7936/how-do-i-measure-a-bottom-bracket&quot;&gt;How do I measure a bottom bracket?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T23:08:11.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14450" CreationDate="2013-02-12T23:10:24.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd ask Trek.[1]  Most likely you have a 20-tooth splined bottom bracket that the Park Tool BBT-22 would remove[2], but check first.  You'll also need to know what width the bottom bracket is (varies) and its threading (probably ISO).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to just replace the bearings and not the whole bracket.  If you want to go that route, you're best off pulling the bottom bracket out and taking the bearings to a bike shop.  Might be easier to just a whole new one, though; the races could be messed up if it is making &quot;knackered-bearings&quot; sounds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need a crank puller, like this one.[3]  And a metric ratchet set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/faq/contact.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trekbikes.com/faq/contact.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-tool-selection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-tool-selection&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[3] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/universal-crank-puller-for-square-taper-and-splined-cranks-cwp-7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/universal-crank-puller-for-square-taper-and-splined-cranks-cwp-7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T23:10:24.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14455" CreationDate="2013-02-12T23:59:24.887" Score="6" ViewCount="1712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 7 speed Jamis Boss Cruiser, 7 gears in back and one up front. I've been using it fine for several months now. Lately, the chain is coming off of the single front gear, usually after stopping at an intersection when I start back up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to a bike shop and the guy claims the front gear is not the right type of gear, its the type of gear that's meant to work with a derailleur. He says that's why the chain comes off. I'm disinclined to trust him since it's worked without problems for almost 8 months. If it was the wrong gear, I would have been having problem before now, right? Is it true that there is a type of front gear for use with derailleurs and a type of front gear meant to be used as a single front gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6144" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T09:59:58.010" Title="Different Gear Type when there's no Front Derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14454" CreationDate="2013-02-13T00:03:51.597" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a difference between front chainrings for derailleur equipped bikes compared to bikes without a derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A derailleur suitable chainring is designed to assist the chain climbing onto the chainring, via ramps and pins that the chain engages into.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ppE0X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ramps and Pins&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-derailleur chainrings are much simpler and are just the straight teeth.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EuGzq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Single speed chainring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve your problem, you could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your chainring and potentially replace it with a single speed chainring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a chain keeper like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.probikekit.com/au/components/bike-chains/deda-dog-fang-chain-keeper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or both!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information is on these questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/4938/1588&quot;&gt;Mysterious case: chain falling off large chainring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/10916/1588&quot;&gt;Why does my chain keep jumping off the front chainring?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T23:20:15.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14418" CreationDate="2013-02-13T12:05:31.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a lawyer but there seem to me to be two issues here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) does the company have a duty to provide a parking area (for bikes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is generally &quot;No&quot;, but you may have a contract with them (written or otherwise) that means they are obliged to provide one to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) if the company provides a parking area what steps are they obliged to take to make your bike and you safe from thieves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, employees would bring property on to their employer's premises at their own risk but that is, again, an issue between you and your employer (check staff handbook, notices posted in staff areas, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your personal safety, your employer would have some type of duty of care.  If your employer knows of a threat to your health and fails to warn you or take reasonable steps to ensure your safety then there may be some liability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other posters have suggested though, removing bike racks, or simply advising you not to use them may be considered acceptable solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal experience of this is that a previous employer did respond to bike thefts by providing a locked cage.  Also, where I have worked in places that involve entering or leaving the building late at night, I have been warned of the increased personal risk (e.g., from drunks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3992" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T12:05:31.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14445" CreationDate="2013-02-13T13:38:20.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need spacers, as noted by AlexCuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the spec I was looking for was 'chainline' in the case of my crank, which is measured from the centerline of the frame to the middle ring in my case (this varies by crank type). I can probably estimate at the number of spacers by taking the bb shell size divided by 2, add the width of one BB cup that sits outside the shell and add the spacer size to get the resulting chain line.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would be (68mm &quot;bb shell&quot; / 2) + 10mm &quot;bb cups&quot; + X &quot;spacer size for one side&quot; = 49 &quot;quoted chainline for my crankset&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd say it was 34 + 10 + x = 49, solving gives x = 5.  So, I would assume I'd need 1x 5mm spacer on each side, give or take. (I'm estimating the bb cup size, everything else is quoted from the manufacturers specs).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See sheldon brown's notes on chainline:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Park tool chainline guide:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chainline-concepts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chainline-concepts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T13:38:20.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-13T14:04:32.797" Score="11" ViewCount="15316" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some time ago I had a little accident with my bike. With the accident the front wheel got unaligned from the handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I simply put it in the right position holding the wheel with my legs and turning the handle bar. Easy solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since than the wheel has a strange behaviour. If I let go of the handle bar when riding the wheel (and handle bar) turns right &quot;automatically&quot;. Do you have any idea of what is happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Initially I thought it could be a warped wheel but it doesn't seem to be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6150" LastEditorUserId="6150" LastEditDate="2013-02-13T14:23:12.010" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T20:08:38.113" Title="My front wheel steers right. How do I solve it?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14458" CreationDate="2013-02-13T14:25:17.633" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be that the tire was pushed in a weird shape due to the accident. Try deflating it and re-inflating to try to set it straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it might be something wrong in the front hub but the effect is indeed strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5742" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T14:25:17.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14458" CreationDate="2013-02-13T14:43:43.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you have bended fork, so now your right fork blade is little behind left blade? Or maybe you have dented something in headset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T14:43:43.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13791" CreationDate="2013-02-13T15:12:56.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I contacted Trek directly. They informed me it's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;68x110mm square taper bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there you have it! Hopefully this will help others googling such questions :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in assuming this is the same as a JIS square taper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T15:12:56.850" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14458" CreationDate="2013-02-13T15:16:54.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the bike, but a common problem is that your fork and handlebars are out of alignment. This is more common on older bikes that don't use a threadless headset. It used to happen to me frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an older bike with a threaded headset and fork, you can just loosen the bolt at the top of the stem, adjust the bars so they line up with the wheel, and re-tighten the bolt.  This style of clamp tends to allow this more easily than the newer threadless fork/headset/stem designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a newer bike with a threadless headset, you'll probably need to loosen the star nut on top of the steerer column as well as the clamp bolts on the stem before you can adjust the position and re-tighten. Though, this is much less common with this setup since the stem tends to be clamped directly on the fork's steering tube, which prevents them from going out of alignment easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T15:16:54.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14458" CreationDate="2013-02-13T16:39:52.883" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on how &quot;little&quot; the accident was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First double-check that the handlebar really is &quot;square&quot; to the fork, and not slightly cocked one direction or the other.  (Though this problem shouldn't cause the wheel to turn when you let go.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, oddly enough, do the same check with your seat.  If the seat is slightly angled to one side or the other then it will put your weight off-balance and you will get the tendency to turn.  (Also, note that you'll have this problem if you put weight in a basket on one side of the bike or some such.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not those, pick the front end of the bike up and spin the wheel -- make sure it doesn't wobble at all as it turns.  Do the same with the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not those, I'd suspect that the frame is bent.  If you stand in front of the bike and imagine a line going down through the center of the steering shaft, that line should be exactly in line with the frame of the bike behind.  If it twists to one side or the other then that's your problem -- bent frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also look at the fork itself (a slightly more difficult thing to do accurately).  In your accident one &quot;tine&quot; of the fork may have gotten pushed back relative to the other.  Especially likely if the accident involved hitting something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any event I'd suggest you take the bike to a bike shop (or a knowledgeable friend) and have it checked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T16:39:52.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14418" CreationDate="2013-02-13T19:50:24.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;where i work we had the same problem. Lots of bike thefts and on two occaisons, violence directed at people who interrupted a theft. Work had a duty of car to look after us and many options where explored including moving the bike rack from the semi underground car park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was decided that the underground car park provided good protection from the elements so a cage was installed around the bikes with a code to get in. We haven't had a single theft since. Absolutely brilliant! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If work won't pay for it, is it an option for all the users to club together and cover the cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6152" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T19:50:24.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-13T20:04:52.080" Score="2" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Possible duplicate: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/623/is-listening-to-music-dangerous-while-cycling&quot;&gt;Is listening to music dangerous while cycling?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cycle 12 miles to work (and the same back) of which the first 5 miles are on a cycle path away from the road and the other 7 are on the road. I go very early so see no other cyclists and therefore listen to music on the cycle path. I then take either both or sometimes just one ear out when I hit the road section. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realise the argument is that any kind of distraction is not a good thing, but in my opinion, as someone new to commuting by bike, when I am cycling, I hold my line, check over my shoulder before moving over to pass parked cars etc, and do everything possible to avoid the chances of an accident. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main dangers I can foresee are someone not giving me enough room when passing, or someone pulling out from a side street. I am very well lit and I can't see that having headphones on would prevent either of these accidents from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is (Ive got there eventually!) has anyone ever had an accident while wearing headphones that could have been avoided if they hadnt had them on, or has anyone had a near miss without headphones that would have been an accident if they had have had headphones on??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any kind of sensible response or argument from this will help to convince me that headphones are bad news as at the moment i'm not sure that I am actually in any more danger with them on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6152" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T23:25:43.957" Title="Headphones while cycling" Tags="&lt;headphones&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-02-13T23:23:33.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14466" CreationDate="2013-02-13T20:11:39.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use headphones when I am POSITIVELY ABSOLUTELY TOTALLY sure that no cars are going to be around. I don't feel that is a problem. But only in that situation. As soon as the cars enter into the game, you are risking your life. Don't gamble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T20:11:39.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14466" CreationDate="2013-02-13T20:53:37.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trouble is, you might be the most sensible, perceptive guy on this earth, with bike handling skills second-to-none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you have no idea who the dick in the car is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Javier says, play the odds and give yourself the best chance possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T20:53:37.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-13T20:53:53.690" Score="6" ViewCount="14635" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Scott-Sub-10-2012-Hybrid-Sports-Bike_49200.htm&quot;&gt;2012 Model Scott Sub 10&lt;/a&gt; has recently been experiencing issues with the rear disc sticking on my daily commute and getting so bad that I have to stop, wait for it to cool and then push the disc a bit to give it some space. I believe this has been caused by the terrible weather that the UK has experiencing, perhaps with some debris becoming lodged in one of the pistons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided to take the pads out this evening following the guide that came with the bike and cleaned any dirt around the pads but there is still some friction there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am debating pouring warm/hot water over the whole brake system in an attempt to remove anything that may still be lodged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What advice would you you suggest aside taking it to my local bike shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2105" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-02-13T21:50:01.760" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T21:50:35.920" Title="Rear hydraulic disc sticking" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2013-02-13T21:50:35.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in DC, which has a bike theft problem, so I've been through the ringer and can share my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the saddle goes, I never had anything particularly desirable, but you need to go the extra mile to be sure you keep your standard gear here. I purchased a short, lightweight cable with a loop at both ends, looped it through the frame, through the other end, pulled tight to secure to frame, then reafixed my saddle with the loop on the free end secured within it. Spin the seatpost to pull in the slack and secure it in place with a standard, slow, tooled-release bolt. Not fool proof, but its a hassle free to be sure that your seat is more trouble than the next guy's!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only added precaution is a ulock on the back wheel and frame when I have standard gear and bolts, which is the norm and makes things quick and easy. Add in a cable to also grab the front wheel when I'm using nicer wheels and/or quick release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure you lock it to a secure place. Sign posts are not secure, my last bike was stolen by removing the sign and lifting the bike and lock off the top of the post!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the image of the bike with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/3882/8273&quot;&gt;ulock on the wheel&lt;/a&gt;: that wouldn't last a hot minute here. The first guy that wanders by with bolt cutters would snip your wheel and make off with your bike. Make sure you actually get the frame inside your lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T22:49:24.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3780" CreationDate="2013-02-13T22:27:07.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is a late response but others like me might still refer to this page for advice. (I know I did read up on this before we made our decision)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have just brought a Soosi Flinger bike seat for our 14 month old, 10 kg toddler. He loves sitting in it! It must be comfortable enough as he fell asleep in it during a ride! My husband likes the seat/bracket system because it is quick to take the seat off when he rides his bike to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the manufacturer's website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://soosi.flinger.com.tw/sw-bc07-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://soosi.flinger.com.tw/sw-bc07-1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6156" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T22:27:07.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14466" CreationDate="2013-02-13T22:59:36.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anecdote: If people haven't had an accident, they've certainly come close. For instance, I've nearly hit several runners and skateboarders with headphones on. In every case, these people were on the side of the road, moving with traffic, at night, with low visibility garments (e.g. all black). They couldn't hear me coming over their music (unlike a car), and I couldn't see them until I was quite close. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternative solution: My sister loves to listen to music on her bike. She's stuck an old boom-box style cassette tape player in a basket on the back. Doesn't skip (MP3 would work too I'm sure), easy to hear, but doesn't drown out the sounds of normal traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T22:59:36.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14466" CreationDate="2013-02-13T23:13:19.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually wear my radio headphones, ( earbuds ), whenever I ride, no matter if I'm on a bike path or along a roadway. I never have the volume turned up so much that I can't hear a vehicle approaching from the rear. I'll usually see them in the rear-view mirror anyways. I'm always aware of what's going on around me, so the low volume of the radio makes no difference at all of how well I can hear traffic. If you have the volume turned up so high that you can't hear traffic, you're ruining your hearing anyway. In reality, in most states it's illegal to wear headphones while operating a vehicle anyways ( even in one ear only ), but the police likely wouldn't bother you unless you caused an accident while wearing headphones. I've been riding this way for the past 40+ years without an incident or even a close call. Whenever you're on your bicycle, you have to be a very defensive rider anyway! I'm always looking for vehicles in every direction and an escape route at the same time if I ever see a possible &quot;trouble spot&quot; with other traffic. I always figure that a driver may not see me in time if they need to make an evasive manuver for another vehicle. I figure the volume at which I have the radio when I'm riding is much lower than the volume of the radio when I'm driving my vehicle, and there are more distractions to deal with in the vehicle than when on a bicycle. I guess each individual must make their own decision about using a radio when riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T23:13:19.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14469" CreationDate="2013-02-14T01:25:16.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advice I have seen for a stuck piston is  a) hot soapy water, followed by Isopropyl Alcohol, followed by a small amount of brake fluid (Use the same that is in you brakes - mineral in your case) to lubricate the piston. If you google for &quot;Stuck Bicycle Disc Brake piston&quot; there is quite a lot of useful advise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warm soapy water on it's own cannot hurt. Although I have never needed to do this, I would use a syringe to direct the water at the pistons to waste away as much crud as possible. Move pistons out (being extremely careful not to drive them out too far - put a pair of old pads in before squeezing the lever... When pushing them back in, do it gently) Watch for a piston moving more than the other. If one is not moving, hold the other in to get it free.  Then squirt water over them and wipe them off with a clean rag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the crud contains too much in the way of oils, the water may not be enough  - resort to the IsoP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wipe a clean rag soaked in a small amount of brake fluid over the pistons. If desperate, a normal mineral oil, but what every you do, don't use too much. You need just enough to put a thin layer over the piston, and more and you risk getting it on the pads (very bad for them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, and most importantly, get a clean dry rag and wipe the whole assembly down as clean and shiny as you can. Install pads and see how you got on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T01:25:16.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14493" CreationDate="2013-02-14T07:01:59.567" Score="2" ViewCount="2350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 105 triple chainset (hollowtechII) and the left hand side has developed a crack. Now I can't find any replacement 105 LH cranks but there are some Deore ones on the ebays that aren't too expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So will they fit? I know since it's Shimano nothing is compatible with anything else, you're supposed to just go out and buy a whole new bicycle, but I'm hoping…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T10:10:45.953" Title="deore LH crank on 105 chainset" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14475" CreationDate="2013-02-14T08:42:35.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All Shimano Hollowtech II road crank arms are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stagescycling.com/stagespower-models#model_9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;compatible&lt;/a&gt;, however, the Deore is a mountain range. I don't think these are compatible, but I can't find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to look for a HT2 road crank arm. The Shimano road ranges are DuraAce, Ultegra, 501, Tiagra, Sora and 2100. Not sure if these all offer HT2 cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you'll need a special tool (TL-FC16) to install the preload cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T08:42:35.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14475" CreationDate="2013-02-14T13:19:00.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be careful because even if you find one with matching interface, it might still be heavier than right arm. It would not be end of the world but it might feel a little funny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T13:19:00.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2013-02-14T20:12:45.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like  Daniel R Hicks mentioned, the brake lever is not spring loaded. The tension on the cable is provided by the spring on the brake. Check to see if the brake arms want to pull away from the wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they do, then you should just have to re-adjust the tension on the brake cable by loosening the nut which holds the cable, removing some slack on the cable, and re-tightening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they don't pull away, check the spring on the back of your brake arms. For v-brake or cantilever setup, there should be 3 little holes next to the brake bosses for the spring which provides tension to the brake arm. Make sure the spring on the back of the brakes is one of the holes on each side. You'll have to loosen the bolt holding them on the brake studs and put the spring end in one of the holes and re-tighten.  Start with the center hole and if you need more tension, then use the lower hole. If this is setup right, both arms should try to push away from the wheel.  After that, re-adjust the cable tension and everything should spring back. You may need to fine tune the cable tension using your barrel adjusters or by manually setting it with the bolt that holds the cable to the brake. You may also need to adjust the centering adjustment screw if one pad rubs the rim, but the other doesn't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good guide to servicing v-brakes, which covers the tensioning aspect in a bit more detail:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/linear-pull-brake-service-v-brake-type&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/linear-pull-brake-service-v-brake-type&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T20:12:45.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14475" CreationDate="2013-02-14T22:43:32.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by Alex, Hollowtech parts are compatible. If all you're replacing is the left-hand crank arm, the only thing that you need to worry about is that it is the same length as your existing crank arm. Whether it's for mountain or road bikes, crank arms come in a variety of different lengths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight will likely be off if you get any type of crank other than what's already on there. Cheap cranks tend to be heavier on average than more expensive cranks. But you're probably not going to notice the difference. Except maybe when you take your feet off the pedals with the heavy one in the back position and gravity pulls it downward.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, a mountain crank will probably look funny and that's about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T22:43:32.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14469" CreationDate="2013-02-15T04:48:25.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read your last sentence, ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is not you bell being loose, but something that is critical to your safety.  since you are asking these questions, my recommendation is take your bike to a qualified shop and have it fixed propery by some who knows exactly what they are doing. You probably have some road salt induced corrosion on the piston and that can lead to a leaking caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just finished reading the thread on how to stop your bike if you loose your brakes.  You sir, are halfway there.  No offense intended here.&#xA;Joe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T04:48:25.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-15T07:38:20.747" Score="2" ViewCount="3048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to buy a bicycle (either &lt;code&gt;road-bike&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;MTB&lt;/code&gt;). I personally prefer road-bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have to travel on broken tar to reach a smooth tar road.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On an average I will cycle 200 km per week out of which 15% will be on broken tar (rugged road) with ups and downs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I buy a road-bike, it will be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bianchi.com/global/bikes/bikes_detail.aspx?ProductIDMaster=789&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I know the purpose of the road-bikes and the MTBs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it advisable to buy a road-bike given this condition?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My main question is, will the road-bikes do good for 30 km, in a week, on rugged road?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If not, what will happen to the bike?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can anyone please suggest?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also please let me know if you want more details on the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="5567" LastEditDate="2013-02-15T15:56:05.590" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T00:21:06.460" Title="What will happen to a roadbike when rode on broken tar?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14482" CreationDate="2013-02-15T12:17:06.173" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you expect to happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not quite sure what you mean by &quot;roadster&quot;, but I assume it's roughly the same as a &quot;road bike&quot; in the US -- what would have been called a &quot;racing bike&quot; 30 years ago before racing bikes got all high-tech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main distinguishing characteristics of such bikes are that they have a more &quot;aggressive&quot; riding position, a lighter-weight frame, and skinny tires.  They'll also usually have &quot;drop&quot; handlebars, but that's true of many bikes in other categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of those characteristics make it harder to ride on rough, uneven pavement, and the skinny tires can make it impossible to ride on really loose gravel.  But it's certainly possible to ride on ordinary &quot;broken pavement&quot;, if you exercise a little care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the bike, such conditions would tend to be rough on a carbon frame or exotic rims, but a bike of more ordinary construction (if you can find one anymore) should not experience extraordinary wear/fatigue.  You'd want a bike, first and foremost, with sturdy rims -- 32 spoke if possible, and at least 28.  And you should probably stay away from super-narrow tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-02-15T13:06:11.280" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T13:06:11.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3846" CreationDate="2013-02-15T15:29:12.133" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you really care how the bike looks and about extra 50 grams on the bike... Find a piece of old chain. Wash and clean it. Find a piece of old tube, best would be road bike tube. Measure the distance between saddle rails and top chains - double it and you'll need that much of tube and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut the tube and chain to the measures. Pull the chain through the tube, lock the chain around your chainstay and seat rail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tube is required so chain does not rattle too much and does not damage the paintwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works against opportunistic thief who doesn't have chain tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOzh1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cheap and easy solution&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikemandan.com/blog/how-to-make-a-free-saddle-lock&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastEditorUserId="1896" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T17:10:12.267" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T17:10:12.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14482" CreationDate="2013-02-15T16:57:07.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like a &lt;strong&gt;Touring&lt;/strong&gt; bicycle would meet your requirements. To the unfamiliar, they look like a road bike but they have larger treaded tires (About 1&quot;), their frames are built for strength and they can support heavy weight from either the rider or loads. They ride a little more upright than a road bike and mine came with mountain bike gearing so it is a joy on climbs but not so fast flat out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride mine on what we call crusher fines which is similar to your road condition.  There are several well known touring bikes that should fit your need quite well. I understand it is against site policy to give models but a Google Touring Bicycles you'll get a list to start with. Mine is a Surly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T16:57:07.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14482" CreationDate="2013-02-15T20:25:17.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have problems with a road bike under these conditions. I have a 1989 Miyata LT1000 touring bike, ( Chromoly steel frame ). I ride on some roads that have broken pavement, rolled stone, and even in some towns that still have brick streets. These can all be very rough. I probably ride about 100 to 150 miles average per week ( 5 to 7 days ), on these types of roads/streets, with about 5 or 6 miles of this being the same type of condition you talk about, and have never experienced any type of bicycle/wheel failure due to these conditions. Proper maintenance keeping everything &quot;buttoned up&quot;, and tire pressure correct is the main thing you have to do. I carry 75 PSI in my 700CC 32MM wide tires. Add to that some common sense about the speed you travel in these sections, and you shouldn't have any real bad experiences on your daily travels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorDisplayName="user4975" LastEditDate="2013-02-16T20:59:20.513" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T20:59:20.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14491" CreationDate="2013-02-16T04:19:50.177" Score="11" ViewCount="2375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to work out how hard I should push myself when riding up or down a hill. Similarly, how hard should I push myself when riding into, or away from, or perpendicular to wind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My aim is to arrive at a location in the shortest amount of time possible. I would assume that if I output more power going up a hill, then I would have to compensate by outputting less power going down the other side (let me know if you disagree). So, what is the most efficient way to achieve this aim? Is it better to work harder (and save time) up hills, or work harder (and save time) down hills. Similarly, how does wind affect this, both on the flat and concurrently? For the purposes of this question, assume I am riding by myself and hence ignore slipstreaming&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra points for justification of your answer with links and/or physics. (N.B. there are no extra points.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5791" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T15:56:23.937" Title="What is the most efficient way to ride up or down hills, and into or away from wind?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;&lt;wind&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14488" CreationDate="2013-02-16T04:28:51.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing that will work for everyone in all situations is to wear a heart rate monitor and ride right at your aerobic threshold. Otherwise, it will be mostly personal preference, for loose meanings of &quot;shortest amount of time possible&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T04:28:51.817" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14488" CreationDate="2013-02-16T04:50:35.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IF my hills are in the 4% or greater category, it is always going to take me longer to get up than to come back down.  Example, a hill I ride frequently is about 4 - 5% and I ride it at about 7-8 mph and it takes me ~7 minutes to get up there.  If I ride back down the same hill, I easily maintain 23-24 MPH and it takes me about 3-4 minutes to get down. If I work harder at coming down, I save maybe a minute at most.  But if I could ride up at 10 mph, I'd get up the hill about 2-3 minutes faster.  Unfortunately the limiting factor for me is my aerobic and physical ability. As I get in better shape and loose more weight, I'll go up faster.  Two days ago, we had 15 mph winds gusting to 34 mph. Those winds were blowing up hill, I could not believe how fast I went up the hill, averaging about 11 - 13 MPH all the way up. Coming down, I had to WORK to stay above 15 mph. So the wind gave me an approximate 30% advantage going up and cost about 50% coming back down.  Maybe someday I'll be able to ride up that hill like I had that tail wind, until then, I'll huff and puff my way to the top!  I think hills make the man. (or woman).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T04:50:35.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14488" CreationDate="2013-02-16T04:52:32.503" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically whatever works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to conserve energy it's foolish to push yourself going downhill, since energy lost per mile to wind resistance increases with the square of speed -- just take advantage of the &quot;free ride&quot; on a reasonably steep hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going uphill depends a lot on your physical condition and how steep the hill.  You first need to ration your short-term energy availability so you don't run out of steam halfway up.  Beyond that, though, there is a complex relationship between cadence and muscle efficiency, and the &quot;sweet spot&quot; in terms of force vs cadence is highly individualized, and also depends on the length of the hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flat it's a little clearer that maintaining a moderately high cadence is optimal in terms of preserving stamina, though &quot;moderately high&quot; again varies with the individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running into the wind it's generally better to slow down, again because the higher your relative wind speed the more energy you &quot;waste&quot; per mile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running with the wind you can take advantage of it, of course.  (But we all know that a tailwind is a fiction -- it never happens in real life.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T04:52:32.503" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-16T09:54:32.810" Score="5" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cycle to work, leave my bike in an open but well covered cycle rack, basically in a multi storey car park so it wont get wet but it is open to the fresh air. It sits there for 8 hours or so and then comes home with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I get home I rinse it off with a low pressure hose and spray the chain and cogs with a bike lubricant. It then stays in the conservatory over night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this every time I ride it except for the 8 hours at work where it is still covered in mud or whatever has been thrown up that morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this enough or is there something else I should do??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to spray it at work too so it isn't sat all day rusting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6152" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T01:59:48.653" Title="Daily Maintenance" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14475" CreationDate="2013-02-16T10:10:45.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes have wider chain stays than road bikes so the cranks need to be further apart to prevent them (or the cyclist's heel) from banging into the frame. The distance between the pedal attachment points on the crank arms is referred to as the Q factor. Typical Q factor for road cranks is ~150mm; for mountain cranks it is ~175mm. This means a mountain crank is likely to be 10-15mm further from the frame than a road crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small differences in the crank symmetry aren't that noticeable, but I suspect that 15mm might be. Also worth noting that many people believe that narrower cranks are more comfortable and efficient, which is why manufacturers produce their road cranks with a lower Q factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to replace your cranks on the cheep, I would try to find a second hard pair compatible with your existing chain rings and bottom bracket. Do swap the chain rings, even if the replacement crank has rings, because differences in the wear between rings and chain can accelerate wear and cause chain slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6163" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T10:10:45.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14496" CreationDate="2013-02-16T13:47:13.563" Score="6" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rim has a parting at the join:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oz2HR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a brand new wheel, and I was wondering if this is a safe one. Could it split at the join?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastEditorUserId="6164" LastEditDate="2013-02-16T15:57:21.200" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T18:03:55.127" Title="Is this rim safe?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14494" CreationDate="2013-02-16T15:02:34.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Send that wheel back where it came from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see enough to have a better answer, but if your wheel has gaps in it then I wouldn't ride no matter who made it and how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T15:02:34.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14494" CreationDate="2013-02-16T18:03:55.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The joint is spanned by a spline (or two), glued or swaged into notches formed into the aluminum extrusion.  It is the integrity of the spline and the fastening mechanism that is the issue.  If the spline is cracked, obviously that's serious problem.  Also, if the fastening mechanism has failed to the extent that there's motion between spline and extrusion, that's a problem (though not as immediate a problem as a cracked spline).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gap, by itself, is not a problem, so long as it's not the result of spline failure, and so long as it's not a gap for the full depth of the joint.  You want the joint to be tight near the outer circumference where the stress will be, and likely the rim manufacturers slightly tweak the joint so that it's more likely to gap at the inner circumference, especially on &quot;deep&quot; rims where getting an exact joint is more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your picture it's hard to tell how &quot;deep&quot; the rim is, and whether the gap continues up to the outer circumference, so one can't make a very definitive statement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T18:03:55.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-16T18:04:54.157" Score="9" ViewCount="11523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have laced and trued my first wheel (YAY!) at home, while in the fork. It is fairly true (to the point I used to pay money for), but I am not sure if the spokes are tensioned properly (I guess it is possible to have ill-tensioned wheel which is true). How to check that? Also, if the spokes are tensioned OK on the whole, how to check if individual ones are off? Squeezing by hand doesn't show any noticeably looser ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T15:12:27.807" Title="Checking spoke tension without specialized tools" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14369" CreationDate="2013-02-16T18:23:45.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've owned a Scott Sub 10 Alfine 8 (orange 2011) since Jan 2012. I've done 1600 miles and it runs very nicely indeed. Unfortunately I rode through a 'puddle' during the floods, which turned out to be 18&quot; deep - it completely submerged the hub for 5-10 seconds. I bought a litre of the magic shimano oil for £60 from a shop which has since gone bust. When I opened the hub there was absolutely no water ingress and the internals looked factory fresh. I followed Shimano's servicing instructions to the letter. It's not difficult, taking about 2 hrs - a professional mechanic could do the whole thing in 30 mins.&#xA;The quote of £140 is very steep. Although the oil retails for £80, it is reusable - just leave it to settle and return to the tin. I weighed the oil can before and after, and I used 35gm - in other words there's enough for 30 services. The cost to a shop which regularly services Alfines would be £3 per hub. Adding 1 hour's labour would come to about £30. If you do your own servicing, don't degrease the hub in solvent - the drive side bearings are inaccessable without buying an expensive tool, and thin oil, like ATF, will not keep them sweet for long. Read the net for loads of people who've done this and now blame Shimano. Regarding 8th gear: this has the most cable tension,so if it's an adjustment problem, it needs more tension. Also look out for a rusty/ bent cable. Finally, if there's dirt behind the casette joint it might limit movement.&#xA;Try removing the cassette joint, cleaning it and regreasing the cable while your at it. I'd be quite happy to talk you through the service, but I don't want to publish my email/phone. I'll keep an eye on this page incase you want to contact me again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6165" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T18:23:45.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14492" CreationDate="2013-02-16T19:24:10.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride daily and store my bike in similar conditions at work and home. Sometimes it is left out in the rain at work if I misjudge the weather. I maintain it less often than you do, though I do try to wash of the mud in the evening if I ride home in the rain. I lubricate after washing and about once per week otherwise. I don't have any rust on the chain or cogs. There is some surface rust on a few bolt heads and where the paint has been scratched on the steel frame, but I'd expect that on a 19 year old bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need to do anything more than you are doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T19:24:10.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14492" CreationDate="2013-02-16T20:10:53.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike for commuting which doesn't even see home most of the time. When not outside my client's it lives at a station cycle rack. So its basically exposed to the elements 24/7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got it, I chose a steel-framed fixie, so its very minimal in terms of things I have to maintain in any case. I carry a small bottle of lube with me all the time, and keep a track pump at the client's. I'd say I use the lube maybe once a week, the pump maybe once a month. But as a rule it never goes near anything fancy like soap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twice a year or so, however, it gets brought home and I give it a decent service. Things I do vary depending on what is required, but I generally fit a new chain every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing this for a few years now and the bike is still in tip-top condition. I mean I suppose it depends on how susceptible the frame you've got is to rust etc. but you could probably get away with doing less, not more as you suggest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T20:10:53.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14492" CreationDate="2013-02-16T20:16:12.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some 15 years ago I've ridden my bike on my daily commute all summer and winter (down to -20° C, snow, rain, ice, snow slush, whatever you can imagine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was parked at home as well as at work in an open bike shed where it was just protected from direct rain/snow. I did far less than you do to your bike. After riding in snow or snow slush I just lifted it and let it fall down from about 25 cm height several times to get the snow and ice drop off. Whenever the chain looked like it could need some lube, I gave it some lube but not regularly. This brought me through several winters without any major problems and even without necessarily having to change the chain after winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description it looks like you treat your bike more like a dog or so than like a bike. I could even imagine, that rinsing the bike with water every day could be a bit counter-productive as you will waste lots of lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T20:16:12.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14497" CreationDate="2013-02-16T20:37:16.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a standard front wheel all spokes (both left and right) should (in theory) make the same musical note when plucked. A rear wheel is 'dished' to make room for the cassette. The non-drive side spokes will be at a lower tension (and pitch) than the cassette side.&#xA;If you can find a bike with the same spokes and lacing pattern use that as a guide. If not, any newish bike can be used.&#xA;Too much tension will damage the rim at the eyelets, whereas broken spokes are a sign of under-tensioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6165" LastEditorUserId="8625" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T15:12:27.807" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T15:12:27.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14492" CreationDate="2013-02-17T01:59:48.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned about the bike being covered with mud and other debris the 8 hours you're at work, if there is room somewhere at your work location and near the bicycle parking area to store some things, you could bring one of those 2 or 3 gallon pump type pressure garden type sprayers to work and fill it with water to spray the bike down after you arrive. If water is available nearby, that would make it easier to refill the sprayer, and just leave it there for the next time you need it if there's secure storage available. That sprayer and a brush would get rid of most of the mud before it drys on your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T01:59:48.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14488" CreationDate="2013-02-17T03:40:16.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the hills and your fitness.  Assuming that your fitness is excellent and the hills mild, you would want to put out constant effort at your maximum that you could sustain without tiring out.  You would maintain constant cadence and torque by shifting gears up and down as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, If the hill is steep and long relative to your fitness level you may have to work harder.  In that case you may need to reduce effort or even coast down the hill to recover. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T03:40:16.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14458" CreationDate="2013-02-17T03:53:55.257" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think that something may be bent then have a shop inspect it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However your test is meaningless.  Any bike that I ride will also go to the right because I tend to lean to the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T03:53:55.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14508" CreationDate="2013-02-17T04:04:42.587" Score="6" ViewCount="1272" Body="&lt;p&gt;Iv'e got some Tektro RL726 brake levers that I want to fit to a project bike.  I bought the cables online &amp;amp; they have arrived with a stopper on both ends.  Am I right in thinking I have to cut one end off so I can thread it all through the brake, lever &amp;amp; housing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have to cut the cable, which end do i keep for that lever type? The bigger drum bit or the more torpedo like narrower stopper (which looks like it would fit in the housing of the lever a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5629" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-02-17T20:53:19.650" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T20:53:19.650" Title="Fitting brake cables on Tektro rl726 levers" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14507" CreationDate="2013-02-17T04:37:53.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you have to cut off the stopper you don't need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, cut the non-torpedo end. Take a look at the picture here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=58&amp;amp;sortname=Lever&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=58&amp;amp;sortname=Lever&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under &quot;Specifications&quot;, &quot;Brake Cable Type&quot; it has a picture of the end you need to leave attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T04:37:53.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14458" CreationDate="2013-02-17T10:27:19.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another check not mentioned yet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearing in the head tube may have been bashed giving you a point which the handlebars prefer to remain in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this happen with an older bike and as this point was slightly off to one side, the handlebars would end up moving to that spot if I tried taking my hands off, which meant it could not be ridden hands free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix was to replace the bearing completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T10:27:19.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14488" CreationDate="2013-02-17T13:14:35.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess you may be working on the assumption that you have a total amount of energy for your ride and you choose which parts of the ride to use it on, or when to use it most quickly. Perhaps you suspect that, due to the lower wind resistance, you're better off spending more energy going uphill at the cost of needing to relax on the downhill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the simplest case of going up a hill and back down the same way, with no true wind (only what you induce by moving). My thinking used to be that I should go as hard as I possibly could up the hill, so that I had to coast down the other side. When climbing, I thought, very little of my effort would be lost to wind resistance. I'd be slower on the descent, but this would mean a smaller proportion of my work would be spent on overcoming (induced) wind resistance. I've read that at 20kph you are using 50% of your effort to overcome wind resistance and, as pointed out by Daniel R Hicks, wind resistance increases with the square of speed, so this strategy seems intuitively sensible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my experience doesn't bear it out. I think the problem is pacing. I can't actually work hard enough on the climb to make this work. If I pedal flat out, then I need more than the same distance downhill to recover for the next hill or to keep me going on the flat. But working at, say, 40-80% of maximum is more sustainable for anything longer than a ten minute up and down. Extreme effort actually costs more than slightly above-average effort. (Also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1772/cycling-uphill-on-a-road-sitting-or-standing-on-pedals&quot;&gt;a question about standing up to pedal&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately I've been concentrating more on my target average speed. Any time I'm below it I work a little harder and when I'm over my target I relax a bit. I don't have a heart rate monitor or power meter, but these might help too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid I don't know all the equations, but I think they'd have to take into account aspects of your body's performance, not just power and aerodynamics, so would be pretty complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, working out through practice the best times to put the effort in on a 1-hour route is part of the fun of racing against my previous times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T13:14:35.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-17T17:38:46.780" Score="-3" ViewCount="1014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know nothing is thief proof, but some systems are more of a deterrent than others.  Looking for recommendations for good systems.  Perhaps more importantly I'd like to hear about systems found to be insecure (i.e. can be broken with a bic pen level of technology).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, does anyone use a special seat bolt (the one right under the seat that is used to lock fore-aft)?  I know a keyed seat post bolt can be sidestepped simply removing the seat top - is that a common target, just the top of the seat without the post and platform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T00:27:19.547" Title="keyed (locking) skewers and seat bolts: recommendations?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;skewer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-02-23T01:39:18.190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14488" CreationDate="2013-02-17T18:17:37.150" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have guessed, it is better to work harder on the uphill and rest on the downhill. And as others have mentioned, whatever works for you on the uphill in terms of balancing high cadence and mashing is best. However, there are a few guidelines that you can follow to approach each situation in the most efficient manner possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Downhill: Since wind resistance is the biggest factor in reducing your speed in this situation, you simply want to be as aerodynamic as possible. Tuck yourself into an aero position. Basically, you want your upper body as low and horizontal as possible. Check out pro riders on the downhill of a mountain for visual aids. Use this opportunity to rest and only pedal in short bursts coming out of corners that you've had to brake for. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Headwind: You want to maintain a somewhat aero position, so keep low. However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://easycycling.com/how-to-breathe-right-on-a-bike-to-go-faster/&quot;&gt;a complete aero tuck compresses your lungs in your abdomen and you can't breathe as fully as if you were sitting straight up&lt;/a&gt;. This means you'll need to find a balance between aerodynamics and being able to breathe efficiently while keeping up a constant cadence and pedal force. You'll also want to keep your arms farther apart because tucking them into the center also compresses your lungs within your chest. Most likely, you'll want to either be in your drops or hunched over a bit with your hands on the hoods.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Uphill and/or tailwind: You can pretty much treat these two the same way since wind resistance is less of a concern than your own aerobic fitness. Just sit up and keep your hands wide to keep your lungs as open as possible and pedal with whatever force and cadence works best for you. Studies confirm our everyday experience that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.active.com/triathlon/Articles/Should_You_Sit_or_Stand_When_Riding_Uphill_&quot;&gt;standing while you pedal will increase your speed but is not sustainable for very long&lt;/a&gt;. You'll only want to stand up to maintain speed over short sections where the road rises steeply (or more steeply if you're already on a hill), when a brief gust of wind has slowed you down and then let up, or any other situation that briefly threatens to lower your otherwise sustainable speed. If you're running out of energy and only halfway up a hill, standing up won't help you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, in the real world you never have just a hill or just wind from the front or back. There are cross winds, cross-head winds, cross-tail winds, hills with wind from any direction, and everything in between. Add in traffic concerns, road conditions, etc., and you'll almost certainly have to find a balance between pedaling efficiency and dealing with the world around you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to read more, there is a great article on cycling up and down hills: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsci.org/jour/9804/dps.html&quot;&gt;http://www.sportsci.org/jour/9804/dps.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the ever helpful sheldonbrown.com has an qually excellent article on the effects of wind resistantce here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/wind.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/wind.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T18:17:37.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-17T23:24:47.227" Score="3" ViewCount="2799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have converted a mountain bike to a commuter. the frame accommodated 27 &quot; wheels, so I installed for a better ride. I have a road carbon kinesis fork up front with a v-brake, but need a rear brakeset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boss positions for the rear brakes, however, are too low on the seat stays for a standard set of v brakes to properly contact the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a brake that is long enough to contact a 27&quot; rim when installed on a 26&quot; mountain bike frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6170" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T10:19:53.043" Title="Brakes for a mountain bike frame (26'r) with 27&quot; road wheels" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14511" CreationDate="2013-02-18T01:20:55.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several good options for securing your bike, the wheels and the seat and post. I'll give you the links so you can see the different systems and their pricing. The first link covers the seat security you are wanting, and the second link is for other possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinheadcomponents.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pinheadcomponents.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://search.aol.com/aol/search?query=Security+locking+systems+for+bicycles&amp;amp;s_it=keyword_rollover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://search.aol.com/aol/search?query=Security+locking+systems+for+bicycles&amp;amp;s_it=keyword_rollover&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T01:20:55.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-18T01:21:38.673" Score="1" ViewCount="2510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping you can help me! I moved to a place with little soundproofing and neighbors below and next to me who complain about noise at night. Due to my schedule I can only exercise nights indoors and I love cycling so I decided to get an exercise bike but it needs to be quiet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on what I've learned so far, I want a belted spinner with magnetic resistance. I'm shopping on Amazon since I need to use their card for this but I'm having a hard time finding this combination. I'm willing to forego a spinner and get a regular upright but I don't want to sacrifice magnetic resistance or belt instead of chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm short (5'2) so it needs to fit me and I don't care about consoles/programming options/etc. I never use them. I came down to these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002CVU2HG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Sunny-Health-Fitness-Indoor-Cycling/dp/B002CVU2HG/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00275R1TY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-140-Upright-Exercise-Bike/dp/B00275R1TY/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the 120 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunny reviews mostly complain about noise saying it's loud because it has pads for resistance and a chain drive where the chain slaps against the side of it or something but it's the only one I saw on Amazon in my budget that didn't have a lot of &quot;defective&quot; complaints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schwinn's reviews mostly complain about some kind of defect that causes you to not be able to pedal and a grinding noise right out of the box and needing get it replaced immediately for both models. I think the 120 is magnetic but don't know about the 140. Those problems seem worse to me than the Sunny issue but since I'm buying it to AVOID noise and prefer magnetic resistance, it ends up making this a toughy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately no place nearby has any bikes for me to try so I'm flying blind. Any thoughts on these bikes or any others you know of that would fit what I need for my budget? Even if it's not on Amazon, please let me know it and I'll research it and find a way to get it if I can. Also, I'm not interested in using a trainer, only standalone exercise bike. Thank you!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6172" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T06:42:43.923" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T06:42:43.923" Title="QUIET Exercise Bike Under $300?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2013-02-18T11:19:14.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14515" CreationDate="2013-02-18T01:31:43.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you already have a bike, have you looked into a trainer? Since you're not buying as much equipment, essentially just the resistance unit, you can get much better quality without spending as much.  I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000BT7HWY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CycleOps Fluid2&lt;/a&gt; and it's pretty quiet, and also folds down pretty small which would probably be beneficial in an apartment.  There's quite a wide range of them, and I understand that most of them are pretty quiet as long as you stay away from the cheaper &quot;wind&quot; trainers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T01:31:43.403" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14519" CreationDate="2013-02-18T08:36:08.670" Score="14" ViewCount="10652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get probably five times as many punctures in my rear wheel as opposed to my front wheel. I run a good pressure and don't get obvious pinch flats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a logical reason why this could be happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T23:31:28.257" Title="Why do I always get punctures in my rear wheel?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14513" CreationDate="2013-02-18T10:02:10.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not tried, but at Paul Components say these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paulcomp.com/motobmx.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Moto BMX brekes&quot;&gt;Moto BMX brakes&lt;/a&gt; might work with 700c rims on 26&quot; frames. But they might turn out to be too expensive for your purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T10:02:10.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14517" CreationDate="2013-02-18T10:02:54.693" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;The back wheel is the wheel bearing most of the weight and also the wheel providing the driving force. For these 2 reasons it is likely that the forces being exerted between the wheel and surface are much greater on the rear wheel than on the front. This makes it more likely that you will get punctures on the rear wheel than the front - all other things equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T10:02:54.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15399" CreationDate="2013-02-18T10:37:16.903" Score="2" ViewCount="12628" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am pedaling hard and shift to a larger sprocket, the shift is not smooth or sometimes doesn't happen at all. Sometimes even double up-shifts don't work. There is no problem shifting when I test for it without riding. What could be the issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T14:52:55.643" Title="Gear up-shift not smooth" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14522" CreationDate="2013-02-18T14:11:45.160" Score="4" ViewCount="3042" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for the record, my rims are brand new (~800 km) and clean.&#xA;I have a set of KoolStop salmon brake pads (actually 2 sets, .... well, front and rear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed them ~600 km ago and I already had to tighten them (adjust the cable tension) twice in the rear, once in the front.&#xA;And looking at the pads, the rear are obviously thinner than they were when new and same in the front (although less noticable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The efficiency is still very good but is that kind of wear normal? what is the usual lifespan of pads like those?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard only good about KoolStop stuff,... so don't think it could come from the very pads.&#xA;The installation was done properly too, the pads do not touch the rims at all when brakes are released (~2mm away).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastEditorUserId="5526" LastEditDate="2013-02-18T16:11:27.973" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T11:56:12.363" Title="(V-)Brake pad lifespan" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14521" CreationDate="2013-02-18T15:53:30.633" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all very much depend on your conditions. If you have a lot of dirt and grime on the road, expect pads to wear out quicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say adjust pads position after 600km is normal, nothing to worry about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T15:53:30.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14513" CreationDate="2013-02-18T18:42:41.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you mean 700c (622mm), not the obsolete 27&quot; (630mm) size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try the &quot;WHEEL V BRAKE EXTENDER&quot; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thorusa.com/accessories/wheels.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thorusa.com/accessories/wheels.htm&lt;/a&gt; or a similar idea from Lite_pro &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thecyclopedia.com/resources/LitePro-v-brake-adaptor.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thecyclopedia.com/resources/LitePro-v-brake-adaptor.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'm not very convinced by them, but I haven't tried them. The Paul Moto BMX are probably a safer idea. (These &lt;a href=&quot;http://dx.com/p/aest-ultralight-bicycle-v-brake-front-rear-caliper-set-blue-144195&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dx.com/p/aest-ultralight-bicycle-v-brake-front-rear-caliper-set-blue-144195&lt;/a&gt; also look as if they allow more adjustment than standard V brakes, but it might not be enough.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do use something like the Paul Moto, you might want levers designed for old-style cantilevers, because the mechanical advantage will be very different from a standard V-brake setup. (Edit: scratch that, Paul's instructions say use brakes designed for direct-pull (i.e. V-brakes).)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: A couple more adapters that look a bit better designed to me: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xtracycle.com/cargo-bicycles/xtracycle-cargo-accessories/small-parts/v-brake-adapter-700c.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.xtracycle.com/cargo-bicycles/xtracycle-cargo-accessories/small-parts/v-brake-adapter-700c.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://urbanvelo.org/mavic-700c-brake-post-adapter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://urbanvelo.org/mavic-700c-brake-post-adapter/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="1158" LastEditDate="2013-02-19T10:19:53.043" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T10:19:53.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14517" CreationDate="2013-02-18T20:17:06.687" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that something is stuck in your rear wheel tire. That piece of glass or metal can pierce the tube repeatedly, even after you repair the tube. This happened to me once. I repaired the hole in the tube and a day later another pressure loss. I finally realized that a piece of glass was stuck in the tire. You can feel with your fingers on the inside of the tire for sharp objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6177" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T20:17:06.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-19T00:06:08.013" Score="1" ViewCount="2560" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically today I had a bizarre suggestion; someone told me that my Dura Ace 7900 crankset (a 53 chainring) needs replacing because some teeth are worn from use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask myself, is that possible? I've had Dura Ace before and the only thing I've heard about changing every once in a while is the (rear) cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I have to do? Change my chainring, buy a new one for 200 euros? &#xA;I believe it is impossible for people to buy cassettes &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; chain rings every year. I am not a pro cyclist to ride many thousands of kilometres a year! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6180" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2013-02-19T09:11:26.720" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T09:45:32.473" Title="Do my Shimano 7900 Dura Ace chainrings need replacing?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5732" CreationDate="2013-02-19T00:27:02.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had great results using ordinary engine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T00:27:02.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14405" CreationDate="2013-02-19T00:37:19.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that the size of that thread is called, &quot;1/16 pipe thread&quot; Find local places that make custom hydraulic hoses and verify the thread.  Then ask whether they have a fitting that is 1/16 male thread by hose barb.  Then you could eliminate all of the 30-year-old hose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T00:37:19.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14520" CreationDate="2013-02-19T00:51:06.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is perfectly normal because when you are pedaling hard the chain is under tension and resists being moved by the derailleur.  Before shifting to a higher gear slow your pedaling slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T00:51:06.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14526" CreationDate="2013-02-19T02:42:53.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be ok for training, but when the time comes to replace the chain the worn chain rings will speed up the degradation of the new chain. You should try to replace the drivetrain components all at once or you won't get maximum value for money. But this can be expensive and overkill if you're not cycling competitively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6181" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T02:42:53.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14520" CreationDate="2013-02-19T09:32:24.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On ground, after shifting, look at your bike from the back. The sprocket into which you have attempted to shift, and the pulley in the derailleur should be aligned. If the pulley is more to the right than sprocket, you need to get it aligned to the sprocket, by tightening in the screw on shifter or on the rear derailleur. As you tighten the screw, you should see pulley moving horizontally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that does not help, other problem might be that your chain hanger is bent, but that happens much less often, and typically after some crash or hard hit on the rear derailleur. If that is the case, taking your bike to LBS sounds like a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T09:32:24.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2013-02-19T12:25:15.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/deckster_clipless_pedal_adapter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deckster&lt;/a&gt; clipless pedal adapter.  Works with most 2-bolt cleats.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXDz3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T12:25:15.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14405" CreationDate="2013-02-19T13:42:17.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to very carefully cut off the piece of metal that crimps the existing hose onto the threaded part, and then reuse the threaded part by crimping the new hose onto it. The downside is that if it doesn't work, you can no longer even go on as you are, because you will no longer have any of the old hose left at all to join to. If you can find another hose that fits first, like maybe a one from a similar age frame pump (which would be too short to just use as is), that would be safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another option (which could also be used if you try the option above and it fails) - pick one of the adapters that came with the new hose, and make the pump fit it, either by tapping it out to a larger thread that fits a larger adapter thread, or tapping it out to a larger thread and fitting a helicoil. Downside - if the new thread is too much larger, the base of the pump will break. (And if it's not larger enough, it won't hold the new adapter securely. You could cross thread it and then use epoxy, but that's getting pretty desperate.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T13:42:17.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14517" CreationDate="2013-02-19T13:54:48.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other effects: the front tyre can disturb something lying flat on the ground, flicking it up ready to cause a puncture on the rear; and taking a rear wheel off to fix a flat is more hassle because of the gears and so even if you have equal numbers of flats, the extra time spent on rear ones makes it &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; like you have more rear ones :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T13:54:48.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14454" CreationDate="2013-02-19T17:17:45.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this has been answered I thought I'd chuck another suggestion in there.&#xA;As Mac said there is a difference between chainrings meant for deraileurs and those meant for single-speeds. That's not to say you can't use the former without a deraileur, but as it is easier to derail the chain you should check your chainline is well set up. If your front ring is aligned too much to either side of your rear cassette, when you shift to a gear on the opposite side (e.g. the highest or lowest gear depending on the misalignment) it could cause the chain to jump off the front ring. This is because the chain is being pulled to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally your front ring should be more-or-less in line with the middle cog on your rear cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say the problem usually happens when you stop at intersections. This could be because you are shifting into a low gear to ready yourself for setting off again and it's this situation that causes the most lateral force on the chain. Combined with high force on the crank from accelerating and possible wear on the front ring increases the chances of derailment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T17:17:45.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14544" CreationDate="2013-02-19T22:40:35.983" Score="0" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any tricks to separating ODI grips from lock on clips. I'm worried that if I go at them with a screwdriver I'll end up damaging the clips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T07:45:19.770" Title="How to separate ODI grips from lock on clips?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;grips&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14521" CreationDate="2013-02-20T00:31:42.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to give you a boundary case on how quickly pads can and do wear have a look at my current bike: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced my rear brake pads in Nov 2012.  It is now almost March 2013 - so 4 months have passed.  My rear brake pad is totally worn and riding metal on metal.  I am going to replace it next weekend.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my stats: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Months Riding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 Days/month&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.1 KM commute (each way)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work 5 days a week&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Distance due to commuting: 95 KM &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that I have ridden an equal distance running other errands, but I would think that I am over estimating the &quot;Other distance&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, Total Distance on a single pair of brake pads: between 100 and 200 KM.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Circumstances making the pads wear out faster: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Winter - The roads are sandy/snowy/slushy and wet.  I assume that (despite having fenders) that my pads are getting lots of shit on them.  I assume the rims are picking up the crap and dumping it on the pads.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intersections - I cross three major intersections on the way to work.  I (almost) always need to come to a complete stop at these and usually track stand for several minutes until the light changes.  I am wondering if locking my back brake during track stands is causing excess wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Low quality Pads - I am not sure if I bought cheap pads.  Bought them at MEC (Canadian equivalent to REI).  They only had one choice in stock.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lack of maintenance - Rather than cleaning pads or my rims on my beater winter bike, I prefer to do a full bike service once or twice a year.  I guess that if I cleaned the pads more frequently they may last longer.  I am not convinced however.  I think as soon as they hit the road they would be full of salt again.  My city loves to layer salt onto the road.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be clear I would expect pads to normally last longer.  I am merly saying that it depends on a variaty of factors including: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mileage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amount of stops/KM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of Pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of Rims (smoother rims may make pads last longer?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other things - track stands using rear brake?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T00:31:42.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14550" CreationDate="2013-02-20T02:11:00.277" Score="8" ViewCount="54482" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a newbie rider, I was asked by many experienced riders and bike shop experts if I was using clipless pedals yet?  The implication was you are not really a serious rider until you are clipless, sort of a rite of passage. No one ever told me you can break bones, but told 'everyone' falls a few times, count on it, and move on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there precautions or conditions where one could or should not use clipless pedal products?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous year, I had ridden 1700 street and paved bike trail miles on a comfort bike and a Mountain tandem with Pedal Cages and never had an issue.  I incorrectly assumed I was ready to advance.  I purchased a new touring bike with Shimano M540's.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGydA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;XRAY of the damage I experienced&lt;/a&gt; riding clipless.  It was an unexpected stop due to a flood closing a tame paved trail. Someone had painted a bright blue line from the trail up to where I fell (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SLpkU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;me standing in the picture&lt;/a&gt;).  It was my error in trying to ride around the obstacle and ended in the railroad ballast (2&quot;-3&quot;).  I had un-cliped going up but the M540's re-clipped  I stopped at the edge of the ballast but was clipped.  My ankle twisted &gt; 150 degrees. It was my third ride and fall clipless. It all happened in 10-15 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know through good friends of two very much younger but very experienced  riders who were hurt much more severely than I due to clipless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try again with the beginner clips and different pedals, or as my son and wife tell me, are you crazy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Revisited&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having just rolled over 2,000 miles this year with flat pedals on the road I can report I have found a solid solution for me.  I now ride with &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Pin&quot; Pedals&lt;/strong&gt; available from several manufacturers I use (Xpedo MX Force 3).  These pedals have a grid work of short pins sticking up on both sides of the flat pedals. These pins rather lock my foot on the pedal preventing foot creep or shifting out of position while allowing for quick mount and dismounting as necessary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastEditorUserId="6159" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T21:27:56.013" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:42:21.947" Title="Do the benefits of clipless pedals out weigh any danger they may pose the rider?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;injury&gt;&lt;toe-straps-clips&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-02-20T02:37:16.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll most likely have a few light tumbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you can get &quot;beginners cleats&quot; for Shimano pedals. The proper name is Multi Directional Cleats and the model number is SM-SH56.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These will let go if you pull really hard in any direction. I used them for around 4 months when I first went clipless. Saved me some skinned knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After switching to Crank Brothers' Eggbeaters I've only had one &lt;em&gt;SPDisaster&lt;/em&gt;, the only thing really hurt was my pride though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:42:21.947" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:42:21.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-02-20T03:43:49.830" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Terminology is important here. Pedal Clips (refer &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bicycle_pedal,_quill_type,_early_1980s,_Campagnolo_SL_road.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) are straps that tighten around the shoe. Clipless, such as SPD have a cleat - refer &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:But_rowerowy_SPD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toe clips are not common these days - but still used by some (touring and fixed hub bikes) more niche applications. I assume you are talking about SPD style clipless pedals, but the following discussion does not really change if you are using clips. I do not believe they are dangerous. However, there is a learning curve - it's similar to asking &amp;quot;Is learning to ride  a bike dangerous&amp;quot;, in that you will get exactly the same answer. Do it in the right locations and take appropriate precautions, expect a few skinned knees and at very worst, a broken bone. Do it in the wrong location at the wrong time, at worst - death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What precautions - learn to use them in the same place you would teach a person to ride a bike. Avoid heavy traffic - no point falling under a B-Train - and mountain trails with large cliffs along side the track until proficient (Unless you are wearing a parachute) . i.e. Use common sense. Practice clipping and unclipping - and don't venture too far from your safe area until you can do both without looking down (If you look down at you feet, you will fall off). Then - practice &amp;quot;emergecy exits&amp;quot; - Not needed so much for onroad riding, but MTBing, you often need to unclip without expecting it. Eventually you will be able to unclip at any time, without thinking about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use mix the use of toe clips and clipless pedals - it will end in tears, as the exit methods used for of each is completely incompatible with exiting the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where not use them - anytime a fast, unhindered separation between the bike and rider is likely to be needed - BMX, Downhill MTB and Trials riding come to mind. In some XC riding, it is advisable not to clip for some sections - depending on the riders confidence and competence, however most of the time an XC rider will be clipped in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some riders prefer flats - especially MTB - there is nothing wrong with that - don't feel forced into using clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Updated in response to comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to you photo and attached picture - not an entirely unexpected outcome of a novice to SPDs riding rocky ground, as might be expected putting a novice bike rider on same ground.  Unfortunately you now have an additional couple of problems to overcome if you decide to go with SPD's. You will have a mental aversion to them, and to rocky ground - that needs work but is relatively easy to overcome compared to the other - If you go with SPD's your wife will be certain you are mad - nothing you do will change her mind on that....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest not using beginner clips  - they will install a false sense of security &amp;quot;I'm on beginner clips, I can un-clip easily....&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is absolutely nothing wrong with flats.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T20:20:37.263" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14539" CreationDate="2013-02-20T07:45:19.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you put a flat blade screw driver into the bar whole with the blade between the clip and the grip and gently pry it away from the grip by leveraging on the opposite side of the clip, it should pop off. Or just pull hard with your hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6187" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T07:45:19.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-02-20T10:02:30.410" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;First let's clarify the difference between &quot;clipless&quot; and &quot;clip&quot; pedals. They are confusing terms as both have clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clip pedals&lt;/strong&gt; (which I prefer to call &lt;strong&gt;cages&lt;/strong&gt;) look like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xve2D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;Clip&amp;quot; pedals - aka cages&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cages have the advantage that they can be used with normal shoes. To get your foot into them you push it in from the rear and (optionally) reach down and tighten the strap. In my opinion this is pretty fiddly and potentially hazardous. Getting your foot out is a case of pulling backwards, possibly after having to reach down and loosen the strap. Not quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clipless pedals&lt;/strong&gt; (which I prefer to call &lt;strong&gt;cleated&lt;/strong&gt;) look like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRqiH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;Clipless&amp;quot; pedals - aka cleated&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleated pedals require special shoes to go with them, and there are several (incompatible) systems. The one pictured is Shimano SPD, probably the most popular. The ones shown also have a flat side for use with normal shoes. To get into the pedals, you push forwards and down until a click is heard. It can take a bit of fiddling to line them up, but with practice you're always connected in under 2 seconds. Disconnecting requires twisting your heel to the left or right, something which I find comes naturally when trying to get off in a hurry. Shimano also do &quot;beginner&quot; SPDs which will disconnect more easily. This might present an additional hazard to the experienced cyclist pedalling hard and throwing the bike around. SPD pedals are adjustable, so you can set how hard you have to push/pull to disconnect. I'd strongly recommend setting them quite loose to begin with and tightening up any time you come out of the clips accidentally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In conclusion:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In my opinion, cleated pedals are easier and safer than cages. However, both systems do present a risk that you won't be able to get your foot down quickly when you stop, resulting in you and the bike falling over sideways. As this only happens when going very slowly, it's unlikely to cause serious injury in itself (although you could break an arm/collarbone trying to catch yourself). It's more serious in traffic or precarious situations. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice in a safe place like a park or spacious cycle track until you are confident.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When approaching a stop always unclip early and pedal on the arch of your foot to avoid reconnecting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice some more until you can unclip in the time it takes you to emergency stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T10:02:30.410" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-02-20T17:06:07.000" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You ask about danger, when/where to use, and when/where not to use, so...:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's the danger that you forget to unclip when you stop, and fall to your side. This is a real danger, but not a serious one except if your fitness is a bit low (risk of wrist, shoulder, hip or ankle lesion). You should then practice a lot first, both clip and unclip while riding in a safe place, as clipping and unclipping during stops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's the danger that you get a sore ankle or knee because of the rotation needed to unclip. I had this issue with my last clipless, and solved it by lubing it a slight bit and releasing the spring tension (the soreness went away soon after that).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The danger that you get stuck to the bike if you fall, or that you fall while moving because of the clip, or the clip gets suddenly loose while riding, is very, very unprobable and you can safely ignore them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should consider using the clip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want some extra efficiency;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you like to control the bike better, specially to do small lifts of the rear wheel while going up a curb or over a pothole (very easy and useful);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would consider not using the clip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you'd rather use a regular shoe;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your riding style is casual;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you prefer not to be so &quot;connected&quot; to the bike, to let your feet be more &quot;free&quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a set of different foot positions over the pedal, and the fixed position of the clipless bothers you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bikes with clipless which I ride with regular shoes and even flipflops when I want a &quot;not-so-serious&quot; ride, but definitely if you LIKE riding bikes clipless are the way to go. The vast majority of riders (95%+) never switch back after getting used to the clipless, to the point of saying &quot;how could I live without it? If I only knew it before...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T17:06:07.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-02-20T17:21:33.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go for a clipless (cleated) pedal system there are 2 danger points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first couple of times you use them or so. This is because they're new and you have to remember to unclip. You'll be really concious of this as well as clipping in so watch out for things around you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second is a few weeks later. By then you'll have got used to the whole clip in / unclip routine but it's not entirely automatic yet so you'll likely stop and forget to unclip ... clipless moment ensures.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get used to clipless pedals you really will wonder how you ever did without them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user400" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T17:21:33.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-02-20T19:43:36.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the first question you should ask yourself is this: Is some marginal perceived effiency gain worth the added risk of injury that clipless pedals provide? EVERYONE (including most of the posters in this thread, and surely any comments to this post as well) will give you dogma about how clipless pedals are better, more efficient and the defining trait that separates the amateurs from the pros. This is at worst dangerous misinformation, and at best a coercion of a preference. I asked a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14059/are-there-any-scientific-studies-proving-the-benefits-of-clipless-pedal-systems&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; earlier about any scientific sources backing up the claim that clipless pedals are more effective than flat pedals, but the data that is available seemed to conclude that this is not the case, and pedal choice does not dictate the effectiveness of the pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another spokesperson for using flat pedals is James &quot;Bikejames&quot; Wilson who has been a proponent for the use of them for a long time. He has compiled the self-titled &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikejames.com/strength/the-flat-pedal-revolution-manifesto-how-to-improve-your-riding-with-flat-pedals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flat pedal revolution manifesto&lt;/a&gt; which is a compilation of some of his blog posts about the subject of clipless and flat pedals. It is definitely worth reading for some good arguments for using flat pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally believe that clipless pedals are best suited for racing, and that strapping yourself to such a finicky machine as a bicycle is an inherently bad idea. Searching through the databases of scientific journals does also give you quite a few hits in medical journals about studies of injuries related to the use of clipless pedals, something which I have yet to see for flat pedals. Judging by your post you do not seem to want to use clipless pedals for other reasons than the societal pressure to do so. I think you should give it all a good thinking, read the arguments, and then decide on what you feel is best for you. You should not let anyone persuade you to do something you are not comfortable with doing, if you do not feel that it makes sense for you. The type of bicycle pedal is one of the most important choices you can make in your life, and you should not leave it up to others to decide it for you. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T20:38:23.377" CommentCount="24" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5082" CreationDate="2013-02-21T04:39:43.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike manufacturers are starting to design bikes built for dirt road riding - check out the dirt road bikes from Salsa or Kona.  They typically have a touring setup - wide wheelbase, lower to the ground, upright position - and may have disc brakes.  1.5&quot; tires. Gearing on the low end is close to 1:1 with a 50/32 compact up front and 30 large ring in back.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T04:39:43.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-21T05:43:22.787" Score="2" ViewCount="2054" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the failure modes (symptoms) of a failing or failed freewheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding of normal free wheeling means the rear tire should rotate when the bike is moving and the pedals are or are not rotating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failure would mean the bike and the pedals always move together, like a fixed or locked hub, or the pedals and cassette move but the rear tire seems disconnected.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intermittenly have a 1/4 - 1/2 crank turn 'slip' in the pedals before the wheel begins to move. The condition is &lt;strong&gt;very obvious&lt;/strong&gt; on my trainer, not noticeable on the road. Is it a free wheel failure or something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the freewheel is indeed the problem as I suspect, is it repairable or am I required to replace the freewheel and cassette together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastEditorUserId="6159" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T23:00:55.907" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T06:27:12.037" Title="How does one test the freewheel?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-02-21T13:54:28.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are extra risks associated with being physically attached to the pedals, however the risks are probably quite small. I found the following articles on Pubmed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1332316/&quot;&gt;Two cases of acetabular fractures sustained during competitive cycling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;cyclists who are attached to their pedals&#xA;  by straps or clips are likely to tumble with their bicycle&#xA;  and fall directly onto one or other hip, thus sustaining&#xA;  this kind of injury to the pelvis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21649917&quot;&gt;Proximal femoral fracture in a man resulting from modern clipless pedals: a case report.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A 38-year-old Caucasian man who was a club cyclist sustained a displaced intracapsular fracture of the hip whilst cycling. As a direct result of the incorrect set-up of his clipless pedals he was unable to release his feet whilst slowing to a halt. This resulted in a loss of balance and subsequent fall with a direct impact onto his left hip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/17/4/145.long&quot;&gt;AN UNUSUAL CYCLING INJURY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A fit 37 year old dub cyclist (average weekly mileage&#xA;  500 miles) was on a training session with three companions.&#xA;  After 12 miles of quite intense effort, and while&#xA;  cycling along a sea wall, in a moderate onshore breeze, a&#xA;  freak wave washed over the wall and swept him into the&#xA;  sea.&#xA;  Initially he was unable to release his feet from the&#xA;  pedal toe clips and remained underwater for 2 to 3&#xA;  minutes. He was rescued by one of his companions,&#xA;  brought ashore, and taken to the local cottage hospital&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The bicycle was recovered at a subsequent low tide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that these cases, while serious, appear to be rare. The first case report describes 2 cases, and the 2nd case report a single case. The 2nd case report notes &quot;&lt;em&gt;To the best of our knowledge, this has only been described once before, and this was in the non-English language medical literature.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third case report describes a freak occurrence, I searched for news reports of similar incidents but was unable to find any (just drowned dog walkers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're a professional racer then the pedals you use are purely down to personal preference. You shouldn't feel that if you don't use a particular piece of equipment that you're somehow not a proper cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T13:54:28.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-02-21T15:50:54.310" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using biking shoes with SPD cleats for nearly 20 years, and I definitely fell and got banged up as a new user of clipless pedals. I have since learned how to get in and out of them to the point where it is second nature and I hardly think about it at stoplights, etc. I find them especially valuable for damp conditions, when regular shoes would slip off of a wet pedal, potentially causing an accident (this is how a friend of mine broke her collar bone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think the danger of being attached to your pedals never completely goes away. This morning I hit a patch of slick pavement, and when my bike went squirrely under me, I had a brief moment of panic when I couldn't get my shoe off the pedal. I didn't end up wiping out, but it showed me that even after a looong time of using them, my instinct to pull straight up off the pedal had not changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, clipless pedals have simultaneously increased and decreased my safety over roughly 2 decades of use. They are definitely a danger to the newbie, but IMO, this can be managed and they are probably worth it in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6197" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T15:50:54.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14560" CreationDate="2013-02-21T18:09:56.457" Score="1" ViewCount="12500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just gone through the london winter and both my bikes now have a slipping freehub. Admittedly my mountain bikes' freehub is quite old and probably worn out, but I'm wondering if they are seized up inside and I can apply some lubrication to stop it from slipping? Anyone got any good advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T03:35:10.120" Title="Freehub has started slipping, what can I do?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14559" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-21T18:48:52.777" Score="9" ViewCount="9460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at purchasing a bike from a private seller. I know the price of the bike when it was brand new and the bike appears to be in almost new condition and contains all original equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I determine what a good price for a bike might be, given its age and condition? Is there a website I can go to that lists used bike prices?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6199" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-06-29T21:21:21.987" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T02:34:04.947" Title="How do I determine current value of a used bicycle?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14558" CreationDate="2013-02-21T18:53:18.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can happen that the pawls get sticky and cleaning helps. Here's a couple of guides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freehub-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freehub-service&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-overhaul-your-freehub-23757/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-overhaul-your-freehub-23757/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cold also makes it worse, but this covers much worse temperatures that the UK:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/freehub.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/freehub.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And while it's true that &quot;flushing with solvent has not been a reliable substitute for full disassembly&quot;, if the freewheel isn't engaging at all, just drenching it with WD-40 can work as a short term fix until you get round to a proper job.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T18:53:18.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14559" CreationDate="2013-02-21T19:19:36.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that half the retail value of the bicycle is a good &quot;rule of thumb&quot; for a bike that is not more than 1-2 years old. A lot of new bikes are sold at great discounts (30% is not unusual) and this pushes the prices of used bikes down. The technology improves each year as well, and new models might be released at even lower price points than the previous models, but with better frames and equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/searchlistingdetail.aspx?id=3041326&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicyclebook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T15:38:10.970" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T15:38:10.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14559" CreationDate="2013-02-21T22:09:00.117" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;eBay is a good tool for determining value, search for your item selecting closed auctions and you often get a list of your item, bike in this case that has already sold (or not).  The price of those transactions helps me determine relative value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise craigslist shows you another view of what people are asking.  If your target bike is being listed for less or more than your deal, you have more information.  Sometimes you have to search outside your area to get a few hits, especially if your target bike is popular and scarce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other things to consider, is the person a 'dealer or private person who sells a lot of bikes'? Or, is it a person selling their own or a friend's bike? If possible, take the bike to your bike shop/mechanic and have them look it over.  Just because it shifts right today does not mean the drive train is not worn out.  Example, my Trek Nav looks like new, rides like a dream, but has 1500 miles on it and I'm pretty sure it needs a chain, cassette and who knows what else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T22:09:00.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14429" CreationDate="2013-02-21T22:39:24.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike is a good bike, a good fit and you like riding it I would replace the chain, cassette and chain set with a higher quality upgrade.  If you do that you can ensure that the gearing will not jump on a worn cassette and to guarantee my gear changes I would change my derialleur jockey wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1266" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T22:39:24.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-22T07:01:55.630" Score="5" ViewCount="1716" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's assume the following saddle heights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ultra low (bmx, DJ)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low (slopestyle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;medium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ultra high (XC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In videos on the internet we sometimes see pro DH riders riding with a medium to high saddle height. I understand that this needs experience and works for them because on some ocasions they may control the bike by pressing on the saddle or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how can they absorb impacts from 5 (or more) feet drops? Either drops to flat or drops with a bit of a transition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that even when my saddle is at low to medium position I'll sometimes crash my b@ll@cks when trying to absorb landings. So I either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;decide not to absorb anything and let the bike (suspensions) handle it, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;absorb a bit by leaning my back (humping) which is obviously super wrong and dangerous and has already caused me some lower back pains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how they do it and whether [1] is the key on those situations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T11:14:33.487" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T02:23:20.647" Title="Saddle height vs absorbing drop impacts" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14564" CreationDate="2013-02-22T09:22:55.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought that a low saddle height was used in BMX because there is no suspension so the legs have to absorb all the impact whereas on a downhill bike the massive suspension should mean the legs need to absorb very little. I am not a regular downhill rider but have done it occasionally and I think that letting the suspension do the work is key. Although if you are crushing your under-carriage into the saddle it does suggest that something isn't working right. Maybe by releasing the pressure on the bike (pedals) by trying to absorb too much of the impact you are stopping the suspension's natural dampening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T09:22:55.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14521" CreationDate="2013-02-22T11:23:40.087" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lifespan of brake pads is not only dependant upon environmental conditions but also very much upon what is put into them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm compelled to point out there is a massive difference between the compounds that manufacturers put into brake pads.  I've no idea what compounds are actually in them but I'd describe some as &quot;rubbery&quot;, some as &quot;gritty&quot;, and many in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had brake pads that, no matter what I do, will shudder or squeal - I dare say they have too much rubber in them - whilst other pads grind away my rims faster than they wear away themselves.  Some work well in the dry and bad in the wet, some the opposite. The optimal compound will depend on where you live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Normal&quot; will vary according to your environmental conditions. Rain-Wet is always more wearing on all pads. But my primary point - brake pad compounds do vary wildly. Koolstops might work for some; but not others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quiet word on technique: sounds like you don't use the front brake enough... that's where all the stopping power is: weight shifts forward, tire presses down more making more contact with ground, providing more friction with ground, stopping you faster. Favouring the rear brake makes you not slow quickly, squeeze harder, wear more pads, loose traction - all bad.  When safe, practice using ALL front brake and no back; do this until you fully appreciate the value of front brake as you enter a corner and learn to transition to back brake only when you're past the apex and sensing trouble - breaking traction with the rear after the apex is recoverable, but on the front, well, can be fatal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Focus on teaching yourself where in the corner you need that transition - from predominantly front to predominantly rear - to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; need to &lt;em&gt;constantly&lt;/em&gt; tighten up the pads - get to know that adjuster - and maybe even reset the cable once to get the full life of the pads. Rain, no matter what the compound will burn brake pads. If you live in a wet place there's no getting around harsh pads and replacing both the rims and pads often.  With factory shimano pads I can need one or two turns after every 20kms in rain and the same only after &gt;200kms when dry. Just tighten the screw till it stops spinning freely then turn back half a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6201" LastEditorUserId="6201" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T11:56:12.363" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T11:56:12.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-22T20:29:38.540" Score="4" ViewCount="8224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of Avid Shorty 4 cantilever brakes, well two sets (front and back) and wish to upgrade the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are centre pull, linear pull brakes and have brake pads which are mounted from the centre, ie the post (which is threaded) is centred in the pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for new pads I see that there is a much wider variety of v-brake pads than cantilever pads.  As v-brakes are a subset of cantilever brakes can I use v-brake blocks with my cantilever brakes?  I note these tend to have more brake pad at the back of the mounting post than at the front of the pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like if possible cartridge mounted pads any recommendations would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6081" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T20:34:37.357" Title="Are v-brake pads compatible with cantilever brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14567" CreationDate="2013-02-22T20:34:37.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they are interchangeable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T20:34:37.357" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14564" CreationDate="2013-02-22T21:35:53.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're banging the boys against the seat even when it's low, it's the result of poor technique. The pros are using a of proper technique in conjunction with their suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it's very difficult to learn proper technique riding a full suspension bicycle. The suspension does the work that proper technique should be doing and you just never need to learn it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a technique that I can explain either. The best I can explain it is that you land in sort of a pseudo-manual and then simply set the front end down. The best way to learn better technique is to ride a fully rigid bike for your DH, street, etc. for a while. It's learned through muscle memory more than any cognitive process. When you land rough, you feel it in a way that you don't on a full suspension. After a few dozen rough landings, your muscles start to react and the landings start to smooth out. All of the sudden one day, you take a big drop on your rigid bike and the landing is fluid and you don't feel a thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that getting an extra bike just to learn better technique is not a cheap solution, but it is the best one that I know of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T21:35:53.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14564" CreationDate="2013-02-22T21:55:12.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pros you see on the videos set their saddle depending on the DH course. If the course has a lot of possibilities for pedalling and not many drops - set it high, so on flat sections they can rest their bum on the seat and give it a full pedalling power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the course is rough and steep - no racer will have the seat high. So you should do. You know what you are riding, you know that you are going to do drops - set the seat low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And leaning back is not always wrong. As long as you don't overdo it and don't send yourself flipping backwards. It all takes practice and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on the drop you let your suspension handle it all and keep your legs straight - at some point suspension will bottom out and shock through your straight legs will go into your spine. And that is a direct ticket to spinal injury. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the best is to learn to to do a bit of both - work your legs and let the suspension do  work as well. If you feel that the landing is going to be rough - move yourself to the side a bit, protect your groin, take the hit with your thigh. You might crash in that case, but your kids will be happier -)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one more thing, in DH drops to flat higher than 5 feet are very rare and are considered dangerous. It's not trails for you, where guys carefully absorb 10ft flat-drop with their whole body. On the other hand, drops to transition do require different technique (comparing to drop to flat) and give less stress on a bike and a rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastEditorUserId="1896" LastEditDate="2013-02-24T02:23:20.647" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T02:23:20.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14578" CreationDate="2013-02-22T22:49:46.633" Score="2" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've decided to get a new chainset as my current 38T Nexus is giving low speeds with my Alfine 8 speed hub. I have my eye on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/city___comfort_bike/alfine0/product.-code-FC-S500.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;45T Shimano Alfine chainset&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have a square taper bottom bracket installed, which has a 116mm axle length IIRC. The Alfine chainset looks like it has an integrated axle and includes a bottom bracket in the package. (To my surprise, given that I can get it for £45 - is that too cheap for a product such as this?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I purchase this product and this product only, will I be able to simply remove my current chainset (and bottom bracket), and stick the new thing in, hassle free? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6209" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-02-23T17:24:27.790" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T22:48:59.040" Title="Thinking of getting a new chainset" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14511" CreationDate="2013-02-23T00:27:19.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a very good solution. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pitlock.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6210" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T00:27:19.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8790" CreationDate="2013-02-23T04:39:30.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I'm having two new wheels built after 10K miles of riding on my current rims, hubs and spokes. I bought a super high quality hub set for the re-build. Now I had to chose which rims and spokes. I'm going with wheelsmith DB-14's because that's what I have on my old wheels and I like the looks of them. For the 10K miles, I never broke one spoke and the wheel stayed well in true. Never had the wheels re-trued which makes you wonder why I'm having to new wheels build? Well, it's mainly for the hubs. My old wheel-set will go on another bike as an upgrade because they are still fine wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read Peter White's article. I'm not going to give any opinion here but I will say I'm glad to have read it and I'm very glad that my bike-shop is able to get WS DB-14's for my new wheel set. I like thin shiny spokes. For my setup, it will look great. The new rims will be the Mavic Open Pro black. The spoke nipples will be brass and they will look great against the black rims. The Hubs are from ROYCE of UK, United Kingdom. You should check them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of my experience with WS, I feel confident that the DB14's will serve me well for at least another 10K and well beyond. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6211" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T04:39:30.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14553" CreationDate="2013-02-23T06:27:12.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct about the two failure modes.  Try lubricating your freewheel with a light oil.  If it is dry or dirty that can cause it to not engage.  If that does not fix it then you will need to replace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T06:27:12.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14585" CreationDate="2013-02-23T09:37:48.127" Score="5" ViewCount="56315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've decided I want a disc brake, at least on the front, which seems a good enough reason to go bike shopping, but am I overlooking the possibility of fitting a cable pull disc brake to my current bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using a ten year old road bike as a commuter.  It has carbon front forks with road caliper/rim brakes and integrated Shimano road brake/gear levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6201" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T13:18:58.723" Title="Can you put disc brakes on road forks originally intended for calipers?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14579" CreationDate="2013-02-23T13:05:03.760" Score="2" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;got a set of profile design bull horns and fitting an aero lever/tt brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;name this one &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M3vtM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how is this inserted into the handlebar and how does one adjust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T18:11:06.533" Title="How to fit tt brakes" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14571" CreationDate="2013-02-23T16:39:40.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That really depends on your definition of &quot;hassle free&quot; and how much of a newbie you are. Personally, I &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; find square taper bottom brackets to be a pain the &amp;amp;*$#! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The square taper bottom bracket requires a special tool to remove it. The ever helpful &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools/bottombracket.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list of the different types&lt;/a&gt;. the first or second one on the list is the one you want. It's a bit awkward to use, especially if your bottom bracket has had time to &quot;seize&quot; into the shell. You'll need a different tool for the integrated bottom bracket on the new tool, the Hollowtech II tool on that same list. It's much easier to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need a tool to remove your old crankset. The cotterless crank puller near the bottom of that same list should be the one you need. It's pretty easy to use, but be careful. There are two different sized heads and if you use the bigger one when you need the smaller one, you can strip the threads on your crank and then it's &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; difficult to remove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing cranks and bottom brackets almost always effects your chainline. I can't find any measurements for either your current crank or your new crank. There are ways to measure and adjust for this though. Sheldon once again explains it all very well here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also important to remember that one side of the bottom bracket has left-hand threads. I can never remember which one, but luckily it's usually labeled on the external (integrated) bottom brackets. If someone else knows off the top of their heads which one it is, feel free to edit it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-02-23T22:48:59.040" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T22:48:59.040" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14576" CreationDate="2013-02-23T18:17:09.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are generally inserted in the location where the bar end plus would go. Most if not all of these levers have a rubber plug at the front that you remove to reveal a bolt that you will need to turn to tighten itself onto the inside of the handle bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6213" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T18:17:09.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14497" CreationDate="2013-02-23T22:14:48.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IeE73.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;One thing that might help is an internal spoke wrench (not sure the technical term), they are designed to work from the inside of the rim, so you need to have your tires off. They are like a screw driver but with a pin that you insert into the head of the nipple and as you twist it, the spoke will push it out and all your spokes will be at the same tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there you can go through and tighten them a little more if you like, just make sure you give every spike the same twist, 1/4 turn for example. The picture here looks like it was home made, and you could do something similar on your own with a screwdriver and a file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might not get you the &quot;proper&quot; tension, but it will give you even tension. With out a torque wrench, you just have to learn the tension by hand. I listen for the &quot;pop&quot; and gauge off of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T22:14:48.100" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="183" CreationDate="2013-02-23T22:32:24.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to make certain the reaction arm is properly and securely fixed to the frame. During mad skidzzzz there will be serious force put on it, so don't take the matter likely. If it comes loose while stopping, not only might it make stopping a challenge, it can destroy the hub bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T22:32:24.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14517" CreationDate="2013-02-23T23:11:31.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the holes on the inner surface of the inner tube as opposed to the outer surface. It could be that one of your spokes is slightly loose, when you sit on the bike this spoke may be pushing into the tube slightly and causing the punctures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the position of the holes and see if they're inside or outside, if they're outside then check for sharp objects pushing through the tyre as previously mentioned by someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T23:11:31.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14598" CreationDate="2013-02-23T23:34:40.230" Score="6" ViewCount="6744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding a bike for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing I've never managed to do is to feel comfortable about letting go of the bars with even one hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually not exactly true, I can ride without a problem with my left hand only on the bar and the right hand in the air or wherever... (I suppose it is because I am left-handed so keeping control of the bar with only the left hand feels more right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, how can I train to let go off the bar with the left hand too (which is more useful for signaling than the right one, since turning right is always easier in countries where we ride on the right of the road)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time I try to let the left hand off the bars, I have the reflex of getting a tighter grip on the bar with that right hand and after a couple of meters I start feeling unsafe and my trajectory stops being completely straight and I catch the bars back with both hands before losing balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't intend to learn this just &quot;for the trick&quot;,... I just believe it is useful in the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastEditorUserId="11011" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T00:16:13.327" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T00:16:13.327" Title="Riding with one hand" Tags="&lt;handling&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14583" CreationDate="2013-02-24T00:26:41.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practice! Start out by not pedaling and just get used to controlling the bike with your seat, you might also twist your heels into the frame for better control if you have platform pedals. Lean back, kind of scary, but you have way more control that if you are hunched forward. Even for one hand, it is better to be as far back as your arm will let you. Drop the seat to where you can put both feet on the ground while still in the seat. This will allow you to step off your bike if you are about to fall. You will have to be willing to let your bike fall and get scuffed up. If your bike is more valuable than your body, and you are more willing to get knee surgery than have your bike scratched, you might want to skip this whole thing. &#xA;I am right handed but prefer my left hand on the bars, might have more to do with being goofy foot than left/right handed. You are going about it correctly now, just raise your hands off a little and be ready to grab the bars if needed. Do it in a safe place like a parking lot until you get comfortable. There is no real advantage to riding with no hands, but one handed should be learned. Strange as this sounds, riding no handed will not help riding one handed, they are different enough that your balance and technique are not as related as it might seem, unless you can have your back completely straight up with one hand on the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T00:26:41.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14575" CreationDate="2013-02-24T00:27:51.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. You'll need a replacement fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T00:27:51.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14575" CreationDate="2013-02-24T02:41:36.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To install disk brake, you need brake mount tabs on your fork/frame. Like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mmItS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Disk brake mount on a fork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike198.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/fork-is-brake-mounts.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Original Image&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And hub with mounts for brake rotor:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ONQsJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano Rear Hub with brake rotor mounts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a few attempts to create an adaptor for fork/frame to install disk brakev tabs. But none were good enough for real life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your best route is to replace your fork and front wheel/hub.&#xA;But sometimes it is easier to get a whole new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastEditorUserId="896" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T13:18:58.723" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T13:18:58.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14575" CreationDate="2013-02-24T04:45:58.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have disc brakes on two of my bikes (one road, one mountain), and swear by them in the winter. As others have suggested, you will need to buy a new fork at the very least. You should consider whether it's worth replacing a carbon fork, though, since it will add quite a bit of weight and you may find that this offsets the improvements of the brake itself. A lightweight cyclocross fork with disc tabs will not be cheap, and the beefier steel or aluminum ones are neither light nor free. If you can describe some more of your current specs, I might be able to suggest some options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to play devil's advocate, I would strongly encourage you to read a few articles to familiarize yourself with some of the issues that can arise when using disc brakes on a road bike. Firstly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rodbikes.com/articles/brakes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this critique&lt;/a&gt; by the proprietor of Rodriguez bicycles. Take note of the photo at the bottom of a crumpled road fork which wasn't up to spec for the installed calipers. Secondly, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/02/14/road-bike-disc-brakes-are-coming-but-will-they-work/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;concrete example&lt;/a&gt; of what can go wrong if you use the wrong type of discs on a road bike and push them too far. Also beware that to use discs on the front, you will likely need a dished wheel (unequal spoke length on the two sides). This increases the complexity of a wheel build, making it more expensive and typically more prone to going out of true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I strongly recommend discs for commuting. Discs are quieter and require far less maintenance overall, because I'm not sanding my rims down every time I ride on gritty roads in the winter. As long as you aren't riding up and down mountains and sustaining 35 mph downhill for long periods, you should be fine. Go with mechanical calipers -- hydraulic ones aren't worth the cost, or complexity for a commuter. You'll get all the benefits without the downsides. I suspect it's even cost-competitive, because disc pads and rotors last so much longer than rubber pads (not to mention the wheel wear issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6179" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T04:45:58.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-24T06:56:20.893" Score="2" ViewCount="7514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a little spill after stupidly riding in the dark through a park (my light had just broke the same day), and I didn't have enough time to react, leading to a head on collision at about 27km/h with a small wooden post - I ended up ok, but my bike had some noticable problems like the brakes being in the wrong places afterwards. Ok, no problem, easily readjusted with my trusty allen keys. But then I noticed that my front fork had seemingly been bent backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before : &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O90lu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O90lu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.imgur.com/NkpbNGO.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After :&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xivr0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xivr0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noticable that the front tire has been bent back - anything I can do about this, or is this a case for a mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6216" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-07-23T12:53:25.197" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T17:51:54.457" Title="Front Fork Bent After Crash" Tags="&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14590" CreationDate="2013-02-24T14:05:11.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a somewhat similar accident this summer, and the steerer of my fork was bent and I assume this is also the case for you. I decided to go for a new fork, as it was quite inexpensive (sub $30) and bending it back would have been troublesome and awkward, even with a lathe (which I happen to have access to). One of the problems would be that you'd need to bend it back such that the headset bearings are (near) perfectly aligned, otherwise you'd end up more or less than normal play in the headset bearings when steering. If the steerer is not damaged, you'd have to align the blades of the fork to their old position, without knowing this old position (at least not exactly). Other than worry about the fork, I would suggest checking all the parts of the steering mechanism, as well as the frame and the front wheel for cracks/bends to avoid surprises, I you haven't done so yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.: If you really want to fix the existing fork, I'd suggest removing it from the bike, putting it into a lathe at the steerer above the bend and try to bend it back. You'd have to be careful however, if you feel that the material is giving in, you've likely already gone to far with the bending. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6217" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T14:05:11.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14583" CreationDate="2013-02-24T18:04:33.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nic --&#xA;Have you ever watched a Madison race?&#xA;When they sling another rider they put their hand near the middle of the bar (handle bar).&#xA;(my first post here, not sure if this video link will pass)&#xA;Here's a video link that shows the hand slings:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/SCtm1WTFFNw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the hand is near the middle of the bar, forces are directed into the frame, rather than deflecting the steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Briefly stated, often riders have too much weight transferred to the hands from poor saddle angle. Symptoms are, need to ride straight armed, numb hands, riders shaking their arms and hands out.  They are often judged to be squirrely by other riders, as any upper body movement goes straight into the bar.  If your saddle angle is good you should be able to let go of the bar without falling forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the years I've had to push many riders over hills or just giving them some help back. I've been asked how do you do that?  You start by putting your bike hand in the middle of the bar, and pushing with the other.  Just like the Madison racers, of course they don't push, they sling-shot the other rider, but the same concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6219" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-02-24T21:58:20.157" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T21:58:20.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14576" CreationDate="2013-02-24T18:11:06.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adjust the brake cable?&#xA;You could use an inline adjuster.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pbkmedia.probikekit.com/catalog/product/cache/18/image/420x460/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/1/111124.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pbkmedia.probikekit.com/catalog/product/cache/18/image/420x460/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/1/111124.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6219" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T18:11:06.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14583" CreationDate="2013-02-24T18:17:20.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practice riding with both hands lightly touching the handlebar.  In a sense you're learning to ride by controlling the bike with your seat/legs but you don't have to completely remove your hands from the bar, just try to transfer more and more control away from your hands (this is just an exercise, not for general riding).  You should get to the point where you have very good control with your seat/legs (going straight) and your hands are just lightly touching the bars.  At this point you can try releasing your left hand (with right hand firm on the bars but not clamped tight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a place to do these exercises away from others (cars, bikes and pedestrians) and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;only do it on a smooth surface&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; until you master it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you can right with just your right hand on the bars (I'm assuming you're in a drive on the right country) and can use your left hand to signal turns and braking, you'll be a much safer rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T18:17:20.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14583" CreationDate="2013-02-24T19:07:35.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description I would guess that your problem not about learning how to do it (you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do it, but only on one side) but more about fear and confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things you will need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some quiet spot to practice with smooth surface and not many obstacles, maybe a parking ground or so,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bike that has a preferably upright riding position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the latter is, that your hands on the handle bar serve two purposes: the hold the bar to control the front wheel and they support your upper body. The bent over your upper body is on the bike, the more weight has to be taken by your arms to support your body and the more can your upper body influence the steering behavior (as already mentioned in webbgeek's answer). With an upright position the weight of your upper body is lasting on the saddle via your hip and the arms only have to steer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have different bikes at hand, chose the one with the most upright position you can get – chances are good that this is your grandma's bike or something similar ;-) If you have no other bike but different possibilities to place your hands on the handle bar, start your practice with the hand position that allows for the most upright position instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When on your safe spot now, try to ride some straight lines and circles while putting as less weight as possible on the handle bar. Also try not to wrap your fingers around the bar but only put your palms or the joints between hand and fingers on the handles while keeping your hands open, so that you have only the friction between your palms and the handles to control the steering. By trying to put as less weight as possible on the handlebar you also will sit more upright which will make it easier to use your upper body and hips for steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also realize, that you don't have to hold the handles tight like you tried to squeeze water out of them. Once you feel safe with this situation you can now try to take away the weight from one hand completely &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; putting this weight on the other hand and also without closing the remaining hand to fasten its grip. Maybe it helps, if you don't take away the weight by just lifting your hand but by rotating your shoulders a bit, so that the shoulder of that side, where you want to take the hand away, goes slightly away from the handle bar. Now you can again first practice going straight and then some (hopefully now intentional) wiggly lines which should give you more safety while riding with one hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also would recommend to do this not only with your weak hand, but practice with both hands and watch if you unintentionally fall into some certain behavior while riding with your strong hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T19:07:35.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14600" CreationDate="2013-02-24T21:04:28.413" Score="3" ViewCount="5245" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the tracks I've been riding recently is testing both my skill level and my bike. The track is a combination steepness and roughness that makes it significantly different to what I've previously riden. The track is probably more suited to an AM FSR but I'm riding an XC hardtail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frequent chain slapping and rear derailleur bouncing around has led me to question what the best gear ratio to ride is and if this will damage my drive train. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to ride downhill in the larger chainring (42T) on a lower gear with a tighter chain or in the middle (32T) in a higher gear assuming the ration at the end is roughly similar?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-02-24T21:10:36.207" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T23:28:09.990" Title="What is a better gearing combination for downhill?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14599" CreationDate="2013-02-24T21:17:10.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a hard tail over all sorts of terrain. Generally I ride on the middle chain ring in these situations. Its less to do with the mechanics, and more to do with whats possibly coming up, and fast + reliable gear selection. When on the large chain ring, you can get caught out by a short (or long), steep uphill, and not be able to get a low enough gear to climb it just changing the rear cluster. &#xA;I reserve the large one for easy predicable ground, or tracks I know really well - for instance sealed/gravel roads, manufactured fast tracks with sweeping / bermed corners where speed is all important, and you are unlikely / have no need to slow down below about 20km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the track is steep and rough, I am unlikely to run out of cadence before 'balls' - if you find you (like many others) have a &quot;lower center of gravity&quot; than me (i.e. smaller brain and/or bigger balls), and you run out of cadence, then go for the top chain ring. Also the chain can be dropped far more easily off the top chain ring - although on a well tuned bike this should not happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as chain slap and derailleur bounce - I ignore it. Its a mountain bike designed to be used and abused. If you want, you can get neoprene coves for the chain stay which will quieten it down, or wrap it in duck tape... I have never heard of derailleur damage caused by slap, but that is not to say it does not happen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-02-24T21:24:58.897" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T21:24:58.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-24T22:26:33.157" Score="-4" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a great vintage Western Flyer, Ladies bike, that I am trying to find a few parts for. I need to replace the rear Altenburger Synchron brake and I want to replace the seat and pedals back to something original. I can't even figure out where to find parts. This is a great bike and I want to get it back to as close to original as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6224" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T23:05:34.373" Title="Ladies Western Flyer" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-02-25T15:33:13.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14601" CreationDate="2013-02-24T23:05:34.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are a few web pages devoted to the Western Auto bikes, if you look around.  That would probably be the best place to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T23:05:34.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14599" CreationDate="2013-02-24T23:28:09.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dCkQ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Single Ring Chain Guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run a single front with a &quot;Single Ring Chain Guide&quot; very similar to the pic on the left. There are also similar options for multiple rings like you see on the right. They keep the chain from slapping, but more importantly (for me anyway) they keep the chain on the rings. The more rings you have, the more options you can choose from, the longer the chain has to be, and this will cause more slap and more chance for the chain to come off. You can see the bike on the left also uses a rubber slap pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel like you need all 3 chainrings in the front, you might want to chop the chain down to the minimum length you will need for both big front and rear, but this &quot;cross-gearing&quot; shouldn't be used anyway. (I have known some to chop it even more and never use the outer chain until you are in the lower 3 rear sprockets, this will also help server as a chain guide to reduce the chain from bouncing off the front rings). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside to using a single front is that you are basically stuck in your middle gear in the front, but for the riding I do, almost exclusively downhill, it is worth it to me to jump off my bike and walk it the few times I need to go uphill (its almost as fast as pedaling it in hamster-wheel mode anyway), I don't miss my other gears. You can also buy just the pulley and attach it to your chainstay, but I didn't like the way it worked on my 3 chain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T23:28:09.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14590" CreationDate="2013-02-25T00:01:32.110" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think anyone can give you a valid answer from a photo.  Is there a fine crack there?  Who knows?  Certainly, no one can tell from a photo.  Are the forks bent unevenly or beyond their design specs, leading to handling problems?  Again, who knows?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would replace it without further ado.  It's steel, so although that does mean it can possibly be straightened, it also means it shouldn't be very expensive to replace.  A fork is an awfully safety-critical component to gamble with, so I would just replace it.  I want my forks in unquestionably perfect condition.  But if money is a serious constraint, I would, at an absolute minimum, have it inspected by a bike mechanic and take their advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T03:10:13.597" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T03:10:13.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14590" CreationDate="2013-02-25T07:55:51.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bended steel fork like you did, maybe even more. Since I was not able to find a cheap one at that time, my LBS straightened out the bended one. I was not watching him do it, but he told me that steel has a memory, and that it would snap back to the position it had before bending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was driving about half a year with repaired fork, it worked ok with following exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjusting front V brake not to squeak in wet weather was next to impossible. Installing break booster did reduce squeaking but did not eliminate it. I guess fork was still a little misaligned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It seems that my headset was also dented in the hit, and it was kind of &quot;indexed&quot; in straight possition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I finally found cheap replacement fork, I have replaced it together with new headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T07:55:51.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14583" CreationDate="2013-02-25T17:40:38.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play bike polo, you'll get really good at using one hand after a while. You can also hold yourself up with your mallet while you figure it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T17:40:38.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14590" CreationDate="2013-02-25T17:46:13.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One piece of advice I would add to the answers here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hesitate to have your bike looked at by a mechanic / continue to ride on the bent fork, be wary of any new squeaks or rattles you hear while riding.  These may indicate a break in the fork (or elsewhere on the frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once crashed and broke my fork right above the axle and never noticed the break.  Two days of riding later I found the source of the seemingly insignificant rattling noise.  My front wheel was holding on just one side of the fork; very dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5646" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T17:46:13.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14275" CreationDate="2013-02-25T20:50:23.603" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;SRAM acquired Sachs in 1997.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main visible difference between the (Fichtel &amp;amp;) Sachs Torpedo 3 hub and the SRAM T3 is that the SRAM T3 comes in an aluminium body, whereas the Sachs Torpedo 3 comes in a chrome plated steel body and the brake design has been changed (but is compatible). There apparently was a successor model to the Sachs Torpedo 3 called Sachs Spectro T3 in between the SRAM T3 and the Sachs Torpedo 3. Around 1996 the coaster brake mechanism was changed by Sachs. So the timeline is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~1977: H3111 (Sachs Torpedo 3) -&gt; ~1996: MH3111 (Sachs Spectro T3) -&gt; ~2000 MH3115 SRAM T3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the (Fichtel &amp;amp;) Sachs Torpedo 3 (H3111) speed hub see:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scheunenfun.de/f+s_h3111.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.scheunenfun.de/f+s_h3111.htm&lt;/a&gt; (German)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Sachs Spectro T3 (MH3111) and the SRAM T3 (MH3115) see:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scheunenfun.de/sram-t3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.scheunenfun.de/sram-t3.htm&lt;/a&gt; (German)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So those mentioned above are internally compatible, at least if you're willing to replace some parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not exactly sure about the i-motion 3, but SRAM states that it is the successor of the T3 hub (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/pdfs/sram-internal-gears.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/pdfs/sram-internal-gears.pdf&lt;/a&gt;) it has a different shifting mechanism (a broken cable leaves it in low gear (opposed to high gear on the T3) among and some other differences, as far as I can see (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/sram-techmanual-my10-gearhubsystems-english-reva.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cdn.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/sram-techmanual-my10-gearhubsystems-english-reva.pdf&lt;/a&gt;) and the internals are not compatible with the t3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people have had problems (broken axles) with the i-motion 3 hub, whereas the old Torpedo hubs rarely break, which should be the case for the T3 as well, as it is mostly the same design (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-394516.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-394516.html&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6217" LastEditorUserId="25959" LastEditDate="2016-11-02T22:00:19.250" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T22:00:19.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-25T21:17:14.807" Score="5" ViewCount="29602" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are hoping to take a self guided trip in Wisconsin.  We would like to rent bikes there, but can't find a rental car with a bike rack available.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6229" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-03-03T06:25:16.443" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T13:05:25.153" Title="Does any rental car company offer bike racks?" Tags="&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14612" CreationDate="2013-02-26T02:05:42.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you could rent a van or SUV you may be able to load the bikes inside the vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T02:05:42.810" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13932" CreationDate="2013-02-26T03:17:45.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a semi integrated head tube to be used with semi integrated head set, a fully integrated head tubes machining is different , it would have a precis depth and an 45 degree angle to it , in order to match fully integrated bearings and yield a exact final bearing depth . When useing a semi integrated system the cup or race you press into the head tube takes the place of this precision machining of the head tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6234" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T03:17:45.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14619" CreationDate="2013-02-26T14:22:04.053" Score="8" ViewCount="1125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming my chain is showing that it's worn and getting close to needing replacement due to chain 'stretch'. I know you can flip single speed chainrings to extend their life when they become worn. Can I flip the chain around to extend it's useful life? I  doubt it would double it due to some overlap in wear on rollers, but possibly extend it a bit by putting load on the opposite side of the pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T14:31:03.820" Title="Can I flip my worn chain to extend it's life?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;wear&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14618" CreationDate="2013-02-26T14:31:03.820" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that this won't have any effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flipping the chainring on a single speed makes sense as you use the other side of the teeth on the chainring which have not been used before. But with the chain it's a different story: The stretch is independent of directions so reversing its direction won't change anything. Also on the small &quot;rolls&quot; in the chain links on which the chain lies on the chainring I wouldn't expect any effect as they aren't fixed in the links but can rotate and therefore should wear out equally all around their circumference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T14:31:03.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14612" CreationDate="2013-02-26T17:11:49.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Information on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-435763.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this forum&lt;/a&gt; is old, but one guy says that Enterprise has bike racks. I recommend giving them a call.  From &lt;a href=&quot;https://enterprise.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3086/kw/bike%20rack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their website&lt;/a&gt; it says they have ski racks, but doesn't mention bike racks. Might be worth giving them a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T17:11:49.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14612" CreationDate="2013-02-26T17:39:36.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some places rent folding bikes, which would remove the need for an external rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T17:39:36.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-26T18:15:25.357" Score="0" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tube with a Schrader valve, previously repaired (twice). I needed to use it, so I inflated it by hand until it ballooned to 2x the size, search for leakages in water (valve too) and let it all night to check for slow leakages, but none were found. Later, I put it inside the tire, inflated it by hand (~15 psi) again, put a little soap in the valve, and went to check my email. Ten minutes later, it was totally flat. I repeat the whole procedure twice and it was the same story: the tire showed no leakage outside the tire but lost all pressure when inside the tire. (Finally, it blew out while outside the tire). Why is this happening? I'm just curious ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T18:22:57.337" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T18:22:57.337" Title="Leak only inside the tire" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14624" CreationDate="2013-02-26T18:41:04.330" Score="0" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently really sick and stopped biking for about 2.5 weeks. Before that I was biking 10 miles per day for about 2 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since getting better I've been biking 10 miles per day for about 2 weeks. I am not 100% done being sick - I still have &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhinorrhea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rhinorrhea&lt;/a&gt;, but I feel like I am unable to go as fast as I used to before the sickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I just imaging things or did I really 'get out of shape' during my sickness? Has anyone else had a similar experience? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(On a side note, I also think that maybe the winter is making me go slower - though there is a chance that I am crazy) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T01:17:44.853" Title="getting in and out of shape" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-03-04T04:09:05.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14623" CreationDate="2013-02-26T18:47:42.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're probably just still overcoming your illness. 2.5 weeks isn't really enough time to lose any noticeable amount of aerobic fitness for an average, healthy person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T18:47:42.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-26T20:00:10.320" Score="9" ViewCount="31354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a new chain on my 2002 Trek 2200 Road Bike.  The old chain was a Shimano 9 speed that I installed 18 months and about 5000 miles ago.  It had stretched modestly and was full of winter cruft/grime.  The new chain is a SRAM 9 speed, my first time using the gold snap ring system.  I followed instructions and made sure I have the same link count as the chain that came off the bike.  The cassette was new with the old chain, so it has about 5000 miles on it and doesn't appear to have significant wear.  After installation and a clean/wipe/lube/wipe, I took it for a 15 mile easy ride at about 15-16 mph.  It shifts perfectly and I didn't have to make any adjustments to either derailleur.  Three times, however, when putting it under stain (once on a modest hill climb, once starting from a stop sign in a fairly big gear, and once on an acceleration coming out of a sharp turn) it skipped several teeth and caused my foot to slam down hard.  On the hill, it actually hurt as I had my weight off the saddle (not really standing) and I came down hard on the inside of my thigh.  I think all three were on the right side (power train side) pedal stroke, and I don't think they were all in the same gear.  I'm pretty sure it was the rear cassette that skipped, not the front chainring, but it did happen really fast each time.  I will also say that it's not like these were the only three times I put substantial pressure on the pedals in the ride - I wasn't going hard, but I wasn't being tentative or anything.  Also, in case it's relevant, it was cold, about 40 degrees F or about 4 degrees Centigrade.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question:  Is this going to get me hurt, or will the new chain 'settle in' over a few rides?  I searched here and pretty much got confirmation of what I had previously thought, that you always get a new chain when you get a new cassette, but you should be able to get a few chains out of each cassette.  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3806" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T19:18:09.397" Title="New Chain causing skipping on cassette - will this work itself out or is it unsafe?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14625" CreationDate="2013-02-26T20:40:05.833" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over time an old chain and cassette wear together, so you don't notice the wear until it gets really bad.  When you replace the chain while leaving the old cassette the tooth profile is no longer correct and the new chain will skip off of the teeth, especially under load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it won't get better and the only recourse is to replace the cassette as well.  In the future you can save money by changing the relatively inexpensive chain more often as the cassette wears faster with an elongated chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6243" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T20:40:05.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14625" CreationDate="2013-02-26T21:03:26.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might need to get your derailleur adjusted; the new chain would be shorter than the previous chain and one might have bumped the derailleur upon installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6244" LastEditorUserId="6244" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T16:59:47.167" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T16:59:47.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14622" CreationDate="2013-02-26T21:16:47.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your tire tube is still subject to the basic laws of physics and logic on this Earth. If air is leaking out of it, then there is a leak somewhere and it is perforated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is probably something in your tire causing the damage, especially if this continues to happen. It's also possible that the leak was close to the valve, and whenever the valve was up against the rim of your wheel, it was bent just so to allow the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T21:16:47.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14623" CreationDate="2013-02-26T21:34:45.667" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bad: anything 3 days or more and you will noticeably lose endurance fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good: You will be able to recover the lost fitness relatively quickly, generally in about the time that you took off for whatever reason. If the time off was for illness, you may have some effects from whatever made you sick as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is that a body that was once fit can get fit again and usually fairly quickly. Even after years of no exercise, a once fit individual can get back into top shape (not counting effects of weight and age) in a matter of a few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T21:34:45.667" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-02-26T23:55:49.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off: Thanks to everyone who clarified what clipless, clip-in, platform pedals are.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arguments for using Clipless pedals (in order of importances to me):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Knee Pain: When I was riding with platforms I used pedals that had large metal spikes protruding from them to improve grip.  This caused my kness major issues because they could not pivot or float on top of the pedals.  Switching to crank brothers clipless pedals has remove knee pain from my cycling experience.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Safety: Before I switched to clipless pedals I had several crashes caused by my feet slipping off of the pedals.  None of these crashes was especially life endangering however they were all unpleasant, embarrassing and/or painful.  In my first few weeks I had some clipless crashes but I haven't had any since*.  It is good to know that you feet are going to stay attached to the pedals.  I have fallen off flats because of rough terrain that I wasn't expecting, because I had ice on my platform pedals and once becuase my sandles fell off.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Control: Similar to safety but having clipless pedals arguably gives better control of the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shoe wear and tear: No spikey platform pedals to destroy shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Smoother pedal stroke&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency(?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion I feel faster/more efficient with clipless pedals however as primarily a mountain biker this is less important that the other factors.  In terms of safety alone, after 10 days of riding you should be very safe with clipless pedals.  It is possible you may have a few slow motion falls after that but it depend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* Not entirely true.  I have had some low speed fall-overs on my mountain bike when climbing a very steep hill with loose dirt.  Probably avoidable but I am a stubborn cyclist.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T23:55:49.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14482" CreationDate="2013-02-27T00:21:06.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might look into getting a cross bike.  They are road bikes designed for abuse.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclo-cross&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclo-cross&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross Race: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/SMumJ5sZ8uw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This won't be a great option if you are wanting to race road riders, however a cross bike will offer you 9/10ths of a roadbike's efficiency with much greater freedom to explore more technical terrain.  There are a couple cross riders (who are very tallented) who ride my local XC trails.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a cross bike should also feel more lively than a touring bike which may be a good thing or bad thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend trying to find something that has fender eyelets and rack mount points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T00:21:06.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14623" CreationDate="2013-02-27T01:17:44.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being out for a couple of weeks can put you off your game, besides which it sounds like you're not quite over the thing, and any sort of breathing problem will hamper your performance.  And many riders swear (despite physicists' arguments to the contrary) that cool, damp weather somehow slows you down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(But of course none of this disproves the theory that you're simply crazy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T01:17:44.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14622" CreationDate="2013-02-27T07:37:23.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I think it is not the fact that it is inside the tyre, but you are probably inflating it to much larger pressure when inside the tyre. At larger pressure tube starts to leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T07:37:23.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14638" CreationDate="2013-02-27T10:23:52.823" Score="1" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a 10 day trip covering roughly between 500 and 600 kilometers, starting in the Spanish Pyrenees and finishing in Nice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of bike do you recommend me for such a trip? Obviously I need something with gears since I am going to do a bit of cycling in the mountains. I prefer not to get a mountain bike because my idea is to keep the bike and use it in London for commuting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget is in the £500 - £700 range and I would probably go for second hand since that way I can get something better. At this price range I cannot afford any fancy carbon frame ones. However, would I ideally want a carbon frame bike? I know they are much lighter but I obviously need to carry some stuff in saddles so I am not sure I want a super light one, do I?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'd be great if you give me any advice on saddles as I will need to get these as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, is averaging 50-60 kilometers a day too much for 2 fit guys in their late 20s and early 30s? I am  more or less a seasoned rider although no expert and certainly not trained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3298" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T14:07:10.750" Title="Road bike for a 10 day trip in the Pyrenees and French rivera and other questions" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14622" CreationDate="2013-02-27T13:19:08.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try putting the tire in water with a bit of dish soap. The soap will make the bubbles a bit more apparent.  Adding a bit more pressure and trying to articulate the area around the valve may help identify the source of the leak. Keep an eye out for tiny air bubbles forming on the surface of the tube while you hold it under water. Also, be careful to check around existing patches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After checking the tube thoroughly, check the inside of the rim for any sharp ridges or places where the rim tape maybe has been worn too much and may let a sharp edge protrude under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then check the tire itself for any items which may be lodged in it.  Glass and metal shards can hide within the rubber of the tire, and when under load or pressure, the fragment can puncture your tube. They may not always be visibly apparent. Slowly feel around the inner surfaces of your tire (lining up the label on the tire with the valve stem can help you identify where to look if you find a hole in the tube).  Sometimes I try and work slowly around the tire and bend the tire so that any gaps in the inside of the tire would open slightly and expose the fragment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T13:24:30.200" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T13:24:30.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-27T13:49:08.727" Score="5" ViewCount="8402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on cleaning/re-greasing my rear derailleur this weekend, something I've never done before. I watched a video on youtube.. the guy wiped it clean first, then used a spray lube (dry I assume?!) to clean it.. I don't have a dry spray lube and wondered if I could just use WD40 to clean it, and then apply grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So two questions really:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I use WD40 to clean the derailleur?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After cleaning, should I apply dry lube then grease or just grease? If I apply dry lube won't the grease just slide off?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;John.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T23:50:55.183" Title="Using WD40 for cleaning (not lubricating..)" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14634" CreationDate="2013-02-27T13:58:32.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your two main criteria should be: &lt;strong&gt;comfort&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;reliability&lt;/strong&gt;. On a tour, both of these factors have a big effect on your speed as well as your enjoyment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind you should probably aim to get a steel (or possibly aluminium frame). The good news is that steel lasts well, so buying second hand is a good option. Obviously check for signs of rust before buying. Carbon is not usually considered a good choice for a touring bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saddles are a personal preference thing. I suggest buying a cheap one of medium width and not too much padding. Make sure you give it a good try well in advance of the trip. If it doesn't work for you they're easy to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50-60km a day is probably fine, unless you aim to finish the day at a significantly higher altitude than the start. I've forgotten to take this into account when planning and ended up quite cold camping in the mountains!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T13:58:32.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14634" CreationDate="2013-02-27T14:07:10.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With no training in the mountains it'll be quite painful I suspect regardless of what bike you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were me I'd just take my road bike with panniers containing a bit of food etc. My Trek 1.5 2011 cost between 500-700 quid and is, in my limited opinion a fantastic bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't say that's the best solution, but I'd confidently take my trek up those mountains. Might be worth getting with a triple chain ring (3 cogs at the front) otherwise you might really struggle if you've done no training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saddle wise you stick with what it comes with and get some decent cycling shorts. Remember to keep back some money for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helmet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling shoes/pedals perhaps?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling sunglasses (think rims/easier for seeing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tools including cleaning stuff, pump, spare tubes etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other things I haven't mentioned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!! And get training, that'll make the biggest difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T14:07:10.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-27T17:00:38.477" Score="5" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a non-professional biker who commutes on a bike daily I've been noticing that some factors that I didn't think would make much difference in how fast I go or how quickly I get tired have a much bigger impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, sideways wind. I did not think that a 5-10 mph wind from &lt;strong&gt;the side&lt;/strong&gt; would slow me down as much as it does. Even tail wind doesn't seem to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another is cold. I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that I can bike much faster when its 30C outside vs 0C. Its a little bit hard to say though because I can never compare them side by side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question may seem a bit vague, but what other factors affect performance in either positive or negative ways that one would not necessarily consider as making much of a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T03:18:06.017" Title="What subtle factors affect performance in unsubtle ways?" Tags="&lt;performance&gt;&lt;weather&gt;&lt;wind&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-27T18:06:05.457" Score="1" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hydraulic MTB brakes stated to squeal after I washed my bike why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6247" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T19:07:47.597" Title="My hydraulic MTB brakes squeal after I cleaned my bike" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14647" CreationDate="2013-02-27T18:31:45.360" Score="3" ViewCount="1374" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do all shock pumps use a schrader valve?  I've just taken a look at a couple of product listings and found no mention of the valve type.  I guess that might be to avoid people buying those pumps for regular tires after reading that they connect to schrader valves, but right now I'm trying to figure out what is correct for my new fork.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork description states that it has a schrader valve, and I was able to confirm that with my roady style hand pump, but obviously only top it up a tiny amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T18:31:44.237" Title="What type of valve do shock pumps use?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;schrader&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14640" CreationDate="2013-02-27T19:07:47.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you re-lube your chain after you cleaned the bike? If I am not careful when I lube the chain on my mountainbike I get some splatter and if it gets on the brake pads I get loud braking for a while, louder when wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I slowly lube my chain while turning cranks backwards, key is slowly, both to get every linkage and not splatter lube. Then I continue to spin backwards slowly for 30-40 seconds, let is set for 5 minutes and use a rag to wipe any excess from the chain so it doesn't splatter once I get going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T19:07:47.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14646" CreationDate="2013-02-27T19:41:59.857" Score="6" ViewCount="20889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that shock pumps are meant for high pressure applications so that they can withstand high pressures needed by suspension shocks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, can I use a shock pump to inflate my tire in a pinch if I run out of CO2?  How would it compare to a standard mini-pump in terms of volume? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T14:36:06.260" Title="Can I use a shock pump to inflate a tube?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;pump&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14643" CreationDate="2013-02-27T19:57:56.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A shock pump is designed to fill a very small volume of space with very high air pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tire pump is designed to fill a large volume of air, to relatively low pressures, pretty quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can technically fill a schrader valve tube using a shock pump, but because the volume of air for each repetition of the pump will be so low, it might take a week to fill the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shock pump will not mate with a presta valve at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a practical level, you should use a shock pump to fill your shocks, and a tire pump to fill your tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T19:57:56.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-27T23:17:58.420" Score="3" ViewCount="10604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a BMX bike that currently has all stock parts. Recently, with the school and weather, I haven't been able to ride it that much. Anyways, when I picked it up from the shop, the bars were positioned leaning forward, not parallel with the forks, so I adjusted them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After playing around on the bike a bit, I noticed that the bars would slip forward if I put a good bit of pressure on them, so I completely removed the bars. In the stem there was a lube, I guess for the screws, which I mostly wiped off because I figured that wasn't helping the slippage. I also tightened the bolts pretty tight, and I had to use a hex wrench + a cheater bar to get them pretty snug... I could go further, but I don't want to snap off a bolt in the stem and have to buy another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does anyone have any suggestions on how to lower / stop the bars from slipping forward? I'd prefer to not cut grooves in the stem (unless it's the bottom, the bottom part of the bracket is completely smooth) but if that's what it would take I'll do it. Does anyone have any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I did tighten the bolts in the correct pattern&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5766" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T20:49:21.513" Title="BMX stem slipping; how to stop?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14643" CreationDate="2013-02-27T23:28:16.757" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: this calculation makes many assumptions, so it's only useful in an 'average use case', not some sort of exact measurement. If you find better information, please post it and I'll update the answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many pumps you would need to fill up a tire depends on many variables. First, the volume of your inner tube, which can be approximated as a torus (doughnut-shape) atop the rim size of a given diameter. You can find yours approximated &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrjoeball/4525757653/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on this graph&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26&quot; Mountain Bike, 2.1&quot; tire width = 4.8L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;29&quot; Mountain Bike, 2.1&quot; tire width = 5.2L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700C Road Bike, 35mm tire width = 2L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20&quot; BMX Bike, 1.85&quot; tire width = 3L&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm finding pump specifications quite difficult to find (I need piston diameter and stroke length), but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/review-pumps-co2-inflators/shock-pump-shootout_620.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's a comparison&lt;/a&gt; of some shock pumps on an empty shock cylinder of a 2007 Fox 36 RLC 160mm Fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Average Accu-Gage Pressure Reading after 100 strokes: 77.2 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My best guess at RC2 air chamber specifications: 1&quot; (25.4mm) diameter, 160mm length (max travel). If someone can find accurate specs or the true volume, I'd appreciate it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fox RC2 Air Volume (estimated): &lt;code&gt;Vcylinder = pi*r^2*h&lt;/code&gt; = 81 mL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then, IF pumping air into different volumes is linearly proportional (it's not, but somewhere in the ball park), and you wanted to inflate the tires listed above to ~77.2psi, it'd take about this number of pumps with the 'average' shock pump:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;kbd&gt;Tire Volume&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;Ratio of Tire to Air Shock&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;Number of Pumps to ~77.2 psi&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;kbd&gt;26&quot; Mountain Bike, 2.1&quot; tire width&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;4.8L&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;59:1&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;5,900&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;kbd&gt;29&quot; Mountain Bike, 2.1&quot; tire width&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;5.2L&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;64:1&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;6,400&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;kbd&gt;700C Road Bike, 35mm tire width&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;2L&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;25:1&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;2,500&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;kbd&gt;20&quot; BMX Bike, 1.85&quot; tire width&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;3L&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;37:1&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;kbd&gt;3,700&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/kbd&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, perhaps if it was a life or death situation, you have a lot of time on your hands, or you just can't afford that gym membership, &lt;em&gt;you might &lt;strong&gt;want&lt;/strong&gt; to pump a few thousand times to fill your tire&lt;/em&gt;. You probably don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, if you're just looking for this functionality in one device, you could just use a dual purpose model, such as this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/tools/cycling-tools/shock-pumps/product/review-specialized-airtool-shock-frame-pump-11-45346&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specialized Pump&lt;/a&gt;, that can inflate both high pressure, low volume containers (like your shock) and low pressure, high volume containers (like your tire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GL5u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GL5u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Specialized Dual Use Pump&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/bikes-and-gear/tools/cycling-tools/shock-pumps/1317898932266-au7vptd57qp9-399-75.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bikeradar.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You twist the handle to select between uses, and save yourself a few thousand pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T01:20:56.973" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T01:20:56.973" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14641" CreationDate="2013-02-28T00:01:46.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, very nearly all, if not all &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_10?url=search-alias=sporting&amp;amp;field-keywords=shock%20pump&amp;amp;sprefix=shock%20pump&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shock pumps&lt;/a&gt; certainly do use a schrader valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T18:31:44.237" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T18:31:44.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14645" CreationDate="2013-02-28T01:07:30.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try wiping the grease in the stem off with some alcohol or thinners. Even a little bit in there could be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd leave cheater bar alone and try and get them snug without using it. Stems aren't something you want to fail suddenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you checked the dimensions of the bar and stem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T01:07:30.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14639" CreationDate="2013-02-28T03:57:18.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small changes in bike fit make dramatic differences in performance.  Heat and humidity make a big difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T03:57:18.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14662" CreationDate="2013-02-28T04:24:54.800" Score="1" ViewCount="2398" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I replaced the fork on my cyclocross bike, surly cross check, with a track fork, what would be the effect on the bike geometry?  What would be the effect of the modified geometry on bike handling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming the track fork will be a bit shorter and with less offset than the current fork.  The crosscheck typically has a 400mm long fork with 44mm offset.  I considered swapping it with a surly steamroller fork which has a 375mm axle to crown measurement and 38mm offset Or a Milwalkee bruiser fork, which is the same length 400mm with 32mm offset, which would give me a trail at about 75mm on 32mm tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T17:38:48.330" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T20:15:32.367" Title="If I replaced the fork on my cyclocross bike with a track fork, what would be the effect on the bike geometry?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;handling&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14639" CreationDate="2013-02-28T04:44:27.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boozing the night before has a dramatic effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T04:44:27.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-28T06:45:58.107" Score="9" ViewCount="3964" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/14641/4239&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/14647/4239&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;, I was surprised to learn that most shock pumps use a Schrader valve. My mountain biking days are a distant memory, so I'm not well acquainted with the type of shocks that require a pump. But given that high end bikes (the type of bikes that probably feature this kind of shock) almost certainly come equipped with Presta tubes, why would the shocks require a Schrader?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T03:52:38.893" Title="Why do shock pumps use a Schrader valve?" Tags="&lt;valves&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14652" CreationDate="2013-02-28T08:54:11.653" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schrader valves&lt;/a&gt; are stronger, for one. Breaking a weaker, smaller valve that has a (perhaps just in my experience) frustrating attachment mechanism for pumps on a $1,000+ fork would be unacceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Road Bicycles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schrader valves have at least one valid disadvantage on a road bicycle: their larger diameter is a deterrent for use because it reduces the strength of the rim significantly on a narrow-rimmed bicycle wheel (the main point), they use a spring that can wear out to hold their own pressure where &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presta_valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Presta valves&lt;/a&gt; hold their own (ancillary point, if one at all) and are slightly heavier (retroactive justification from the Presta preachers). None of these matter for a shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-end road bikes were designed for one thing: going fast. Their rim material takes an enormous amount of additional stress from the smaller width, higher inflation rates of the tires, and simultaneously have as much weight, material, and spokes taken away as possible to leave a somewhat durable wheel. In this setup, the hole diameter DOES make a sizable chunk out of the material and strength of the rim, and the smaller diameter allows for more performance and smaller width, lighter weight rims, and so is 'the thing' in the higher end models. Only a 6mm diameter hole is drilled vs an 8mm hole for a schrader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Non-road Bicycles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't confuse 'costs more' with 'better'. In the mountain bicycle / BMX / downhill / trials / non-road bike world, the high end bikes are not all presta. Most utility bicycles (even expensive ones) are schrader for the convenience. They're more of an irrelevant (performance-wise) selection of what the rider wants on these types of bicycles. This isn't because they're skimping in other areas, but the Schrader vs Presta debate doesn't really matter when the rim is wide enough to compensate for the larger hole that must be drilled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Applications&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that Schrader valves are much, much, much more common. They're used in refrigerant systems (both on your fridge in your home and in your vehicle's A/C system), plumbing test ports, pneumatic systems, hydraulic systems, and in many other industrial applications as well. I have never seen a presta valve that is not on a bicycle (so if industry is using them, they're cleverly hiding them everywhere I look). This makes the cost of design, tooling, and testing  a much less costly proposition for the manufacturer (and, in the end, the consumer) - by not having to break the trail for using a less common valve in an application it's not been used before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fringe benefit of Schraders that may or may not apply in this context is the removable core. When I was a Diesel mechanic the trucks would get ice and dirt lodged in the valve stems, and a simple tool would extract the core, leaving a decent size diameter to expel air, or shove a small screwdriver into to clear debris. Further, if the spring was ever worn, or the seal mechanism not sealing, this core could be replaced without replacing the entire valve stem, and it made depressurizing tires much more tolerable (take the cores out, walk away for five minutes). I couldn't imagine how irritating Presta valves would be. If the seal seat of a presta valve 'wore out', got chipped or otherwise failed on a shock, the whole valve would have to be replaced - which depending on the design, might be a permanent fixture in the shock tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T03:52:38.893" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T03:52:38.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14652" CreationDate="2013-02-28T08:57:50.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing some more reading after my initial question I suspect it's precisely because a lot of those bikes have a presta type valve.  Shocks have a much lower volume of air so they require a lot more precise amounts of air, and therefore leakage generally needs to be avoided.  They also normally appear to want a higher pressure than you would normally put into a tire.  This means that you generally can not use the same pump you would on your fork.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modern shock pumps tend to have dials for pressure readings, special fittings to prevent any leakage, and can go up to a higher pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T08:57:50.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14650" CreationDate="2013-02-28T10:33:47.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Less fork offset on it's own means more &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phred.org/~josh/bike/trail.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trail&lt;/a&gt;. The fork length and wheel size will also affect this though, so you'd need to get all the numbers and maybe draw it out to work out the final difference in trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More (longer) trail makes the bike more stable (especially at speed) but less manoeuvrable. Touring and downhill bikes tend to have more trail, while city commuter bikes or sprinting/criterium bikes have less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T10:33:47.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14639" CreationDate="2013-02-28T10:54:25.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a commuter who has to carry things like books, a notebook, food for the day, bike lock, etc. I should say that it makes a striking difference whether you carry stuff on your back or on a bike rack -- a heavy bike is not as bad as a heavy backpack, in other words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that I've noticed is that my performance decreases if I ride five days a week for prolonged periodes of time, compared to having an extra day (or two) off a week, or having a week off in a month. Having rest is important, not only constant training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4526" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T10:54:25.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14660" CreationDate="2013-02-28T13:32:37.837" Score="1" ViewCount="3382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mash a lot and wind up killing chainrings. I later find that my chainring warps at the midpoint between two chainring bolts. Usually my first sign that something is wrong is my chain pops off or breaks and I can see the bump in the chainring that caused it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gone through a 3 or 4 34t/36t chainrings between my single speed track bike and geared cross bike bike with a shimano deore drivetrain. Both have bash guards protecting the outer ring, so I doubt impact is a factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When replacing these, what is going to resist bending more, steel or aluminium? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2019-03-30T11:21:52.803" Title="Are aluminum or steel chainrings more resistant to bending?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14639" CreationDate="2013-02-28T13:51:21.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road quality has an amazing effect.  A smooth and freshly paved road vs a worn down road, where the tar has leached away and it is very rough makes a real difference on performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T13:51:21.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14650" CreationDate="2013-02-28T14:03:35.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a perfect world, every bike would be assembled from a FRAMESET, which is a frame-fork pair designed for one another. With a frameset, very relevant parameters can be actually DESIGNED into the system, instead of derived from it. The main parameters which depend on fork-frame interaction are, in my perception, bottom-bracket height, seat-tube angle, head-tube angle, and of course trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the real world, everytime a fork is replaced in a bike, all of these design parameters, which are independent at design time, are changed at once. This so happens because they are physically coupled to one another after each frame and fork is built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing a stock fork for a shorter one (smaller distance from axle to lower cup of headset) decreases bottom-bracket height, increases seat-tube and head-tube angle and decreases trail. That would be generally associated with a more performance-oriented setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing is that stem length has a significant influence in the responsiveness of handling, since with longer stems the force applied by the arms have a self-centering effect which is similar to the caster effect associated with fork trail. If you change seat tube angle, getting a more forwarded torso position, further adjustments in stem length might &quot;feel&quot; convenient or even necessariy, and these can have an effect on handling, greater yet than the fork geometry per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, this is not only a very subtle and personal matter of cyclist-bicycle interaction, but the actual ability to tune these parameters is more often than not determined by the limited amount of available fork options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T14:03:35.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14657" CreationDate="2013-02-28T16:21:16.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as My experience gets on mountain biking, cheap steel is more resistant than cheap aluminum, with expensive parts the story changes a lot because many different alloys are used by different manufacturers or even the same manufacturer changes the formula among models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of steel anyway is that it can be safely unbent as long as the deformation is not too dramatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in my case, most of the bent chainrings come from hitting objects on rough trails, except one time that it was due to one of the chainring bolts comming off. I have been kind of a masher myself, but I have never bent a chainring due to pedaling force (I have broken a couple cheap freewheels due to this instead). So I think some other factor may be affecting your problem. A couple of them are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chainline&lt;/strong&gt;: The pull on the chain should be pretty straight, so even under extreme forces it is unlikely to bend a chainring/cog. However a bad chainline makes the chain pull in a direction that is too unalligned with the chanring's plane. This can be due to a bad combination of components, specially a bottom bracket of the wrong spindle length, or, more commonly, a bad choice of gears. In a mountain bike the innermost chainring should be used with the 3-5 closest-to-hub cogs, the outermost chainring should be used with the 3-5 furtest-from-hub cogs and if there is a middle chainring it shoud be used (you guessed it) with the cogs in the middle of the cassete. Check the chailine of the gearing you are using most by looking at the chain so your line of sight is aligned with the point where thr chain leaves the cog and with the point where it enters the chainring. If the chainline is wrong you should esily note how the chain bends at the entering-the-chainring point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame flex&lt;/strong&gt;: If your frame flexes easily and you are mashing your pedals, both factors add up so when you are applying maximum force, components are most unaligned, causing forces to actuate on parts at wrong angles, thus making them prone to deformation, but the problem is not evident while evaluating the bike onthe workstand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bad shifting technique&lt;/strong&gt;: Shifting gears while applying too much force causes all kind of transmission problems, from bent chainring teeth to bent chain links, broken chains, premature wear and even derailleur malfunction/damage. Proper technique, specially for downshifting while masshing pedals up a steep slope is to a) plan prior to shifting, specially shifting &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you exhaust your momentum. b) Accelerate a little just before the shift. c) Ease the force on the pedals while at the same time applying the gearshift. During the whole shifting process you should practically just spin the cranks, you rely on innertia to continue in movement and that is what the previous acceleration was for. d) resume normal pedaling once the shift has completed and the transmission is working silently again. (noise is often a sign of bad shifting).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bent parts&lt;/strong&gt;: There may be something else bent on the bike. Particularily the crank spider or even the whole crankarm. If thats the case, it is making you loose the chainline at least two times per pedal revolution, once towards one side, once towards the other. This has happened to me with cheap, soft aluminum, square taper crankarms: with heavy use, the spindle interface deformed, causing the whole crankset to rotate off axis causing a set of not-so-funny symptoms, including chainsnap and front shifting difficulties. Careful inspection on the workbench wile manually rotating the cranks is advised. If this is the case, it is diagnosable by eye or a simple ruler/metric tape. A bent frame is less likely but not impossible, however, it may be harder to diagnose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T14:00:36.807" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T14:00:36.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14657" CreationDate="2013-02-28T16:25:43.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of quality chain rings out there in both steel and aluminum. There are a couple of questions I have after reading your post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How often do you change your chain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How often do you clean and lube your chain? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much do you spend when replacing the chain ring. If you are that hard on chain rings you might want to go to a high-end chain ring like these:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/chainrings.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/chainrings.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you mash that hard, your knees will start complaining. Spinning is way better than mashing. Maybe a lower gear and more RPMs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Doug&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6254" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T16:25:43.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14650" CreationDate="2013-02-28T16:33:15.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in other answers, trail does affect how the bike rides. I don't necessarily agree that a higher trail number means more manoeuvrability. Most bikes have trail numbers between 60-66 these days. Much older bikes had low trail numbers between 35 and 50. There are a number of reasons for the change. One advocate of Low-Trail handling is Jan Heine, the publisher of Bicycle Quarterly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Cross Bikes have a certain geometry to allow lots of clearance for mud and big tires. Going to a straight blade that is much shorter will mean smaller tires, less than 28mm probably, and difficulties putting on fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/02/10/a-journey-of-discovery-part-4-front-end-geometry/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/02/10/a-journey-of-discovery-part-4-front-end-geometry/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a trail calculator that can be helpful:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know your old angles, you can figure out the new ones based on some formulas from Sheldon's website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rinard/forklengths.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/rinard/forklengths.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can usually get your current angles from the vendor website, you can figure our your new head tube angle. You can also guess! But there is also a formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  [change in head angle] =  arcsin [(old length - new length)/(wheel base)]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to do something similar on my Aurora Elite, my fork is 400mm (43mm offset) and I don't like the handling (not stable enough on long-ish rides, fatiguing)  These were my calculations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Google tells me: &#xA;  arcsin((400-375)/1024) in degrees&#xA;  arcsin((400 - 375) / 1024) = 1.39896174 degrees&#xA;  Old HT + 1.40 = 73.4 New HT&#xA;  New Rake: 50mm&#xA;&#xA;  Results:&#xA;  Tire Diameter  686mm&#xA;  Wheel Circumference 2154mm&#xA;  Trail 50mm&#xA;  Wheel Flop 14mm&#xA;  Mechanical Trail 48m&#xA;&#xA;  So, how do I figure out the new wheel base? The old rake was 43, the&#xA;  new is 50, so we can guess the new wheelbase will be about 7mm&#xA;  longer. Not quite, probably more like 5mm. So, we might get 10mm of&#xA;  extra room infront of the toe-clip, as the fender is not up at the top&#xA;  of the fender currently, and it will only move a couple of mm closer&#xA;  to the tire, maybe 4mm? So, a real increase of 7-8mm infront of the&#xA;  toe-clip, but that will be enough to get rid of the overlap.&#xA;&#xA;  Now, going with a 55mm rake, takes us into completely different&#xA;  territory: &#xA;&#xA;  Results&#xA;  Trail 45mm&#xA;  Wheel Flop 12mm&#xA;  Mechanical Trail  43mm&#xA;&#xA;  This is probably too much for a wide range of speeds, and speedy&#xA;  decents.&#xA;&#xA;  Another factor that will change bike handling by using a shorter fork&#xA;  will be a lower bottom brack and less trail, putting the bike closer&#xA;  to a classic touring geometry. &#xA;&#xA;  http://www.cyclingtips.com.au/2011/02/the-geometry-of-bike-handling/&#xA;  http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2007/5/4/trail-fork-rake-and-a-little-bit-of-history.html&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6254" LastEditorUserId="6254" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T20:15:32.367" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T20:15:32.367" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14645" CreationDate="2013-03-01T02:46:50.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the parts move in spite of the tightening (with extra torque via the cheater and all), that shows there is sizing issue: the part is fully closed, yet the handlebar can still rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use metal from a pop/beer can as a shim between the stem and the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, perhaps the stem's clamp could be machined to shave a fraction of a millimeter from its mating surface, reducing the clearance in the handlebar channel. You will, of course, be losing whatever powdercoat finish is on that inside surface, though. A similar thing is sometimes done with old engine heads to improve compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastEditorUserId="5088" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T02:52:33.817" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T02:52:33.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14639" CreationDate="2013-03-01T03:18:06.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some factors that affect day to day athletic performance are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;the degree to which your muscles have recovered from previous strenuous work&lt;/em&gt;. It is impossible to push the pace everyday, and hit a consistent performance level. Day to day consistent performance is only possible (far) less than maximal effort.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;symptom-free infections&lt;/em&gt;. It's possible for your body to be fighting some virus, yet fully recover without ever showing symptoms. For instance, you could have a cold virus, but you have no runny nose, no sneezing, no stuffed sinuses. However, when you go running, there is this mysterious extra 1:15 added to every mile which has no obvious explanation like muscles not recovered from prior hard training.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T03:18:06.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-01T03:52:25.550" Score="-3" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a friends but I'm not sure it will fit me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6259" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T18:52:33.220" Title="Would a 53 cm track(cinelli mash bolt) frame fit a 6'0&quot; tall guy?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-03-01T20:54:25.420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14667" CreationDate="2013-03-01T14:01:43.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably going to fit a bit small, but you may be able to make it work.  Try it out, jack the seat up a lot.  My guess is that you'll feel a bit 'smashed' due to the top tube not being long enough.  Might be able to compensate with a setback seatpost and/or a longer stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T18:52:33.220" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T18:52:33.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-01T18:39:32.050" Score="1" ViewCount="6834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a new KMC DX10SC 10-speed 114 link chain to replace my worn out chain. I'm running a mountain triple and it seems that The chain is slightly too short at it's full length. I can't get in the big ring on front chainring and rear cassette at the same time. I don't necessarily want to ride like that (terrible crosschaining), but I would prefer to have the capacity to do so since If I shift up to the top of the cassette it locks the derailleur in to place due to the tension and I can't shift out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can I simply push out the pin and add a few more links and re-join it the same way? I'll have to buy another chain presumably to extend it or find some spare 10-speed links. Is this something that causes problems with 10-speed chains or can I do it the same way I've always done with my 6/7/8 speed chains? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure my alternative is to get a short patch of chain and use a couple KMC missing link quick links to join the sections together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T13:07:37.150" Title="10-speed chain too short, can I add links?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14674" CreationDate="2013-03-01T20:04:53.663" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with an 8-speed cassette and would like to switch to 9-speed cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I keep my rear derailleur? which is a Shimano Alivio one?&#xA;I understand the indexing might mess up this, but I figure the indexing is handled by the shifters, rather than the derailleur itself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saint Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; seems to confirm it is possible , is that really reliably so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, I know I will need a new chain to handle the 9 speeds, is there a consequence on the crankset? or do cranksets support all chains width?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastEditorUserId="10595" LastEditDate="2018-02-22T22:28:19.473" LastActivityDate="2018-02-22T22:28:19.473" Title="Rear derailleur speed number interchangability" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14677" CreationDate="2013-03-01T20:11:46.903" Score="-1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know for some future works on my bike whether I have a freewheel or a cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will look at the bike in itself, but just for a little heads-up: my bike is a 2012 FX 7.2 (Trek).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these days, are freewheels even still used anymore on new bikes? and anyone can tell me what I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T21:42:40.563" Title="Freewheels frequency in 2012?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14332" CreationDate="2013-03-01T20:24:05.617" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low end bikes are often sold to people that are not conditioned athletes.  They need very low gears for easy pedalling especially going up hills.  The large Cogs provide those low gears.  High end bikes are targetted for good athletes that normally would not need those very low gears. Because the low end bikes must cover a large range of sprocket sizes the derailleur cannot be of the small, &quot;short arm&quot; variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T20:24:05.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14410" CreationDate="2013-03-01T20:42:30.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before applying the lubricant you need to warm it to liquify and fully mix it.  After application, if the weather is cold and the oil on and in your chain turns to grease, it is still an excellent lubricant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T20:42:30.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14670" CreationDate="2013-03-01T21:13:30.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right, indexing is handled by the shifters.  So if you replace the 8 speed to cassette with a 9-speed cassette you should be able to use the same derailleur.  But you will have to upgrade your shifters.  The only caveat with the derailleur is that it has to be long enough to accommodate the amount of chain slack generated by going from the largest gear to the smallest gear. This becomes a problem when trying to use a road derailleur with a mountain bike, which usually has a much bigger range of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T21:13:30.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14669" CreationDate="2013-03-01T21:15:41.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to add links of new chain, just make sure its the same model chain. When you press out the pin. I would suggest stopping by your local bike shop to see if they have a few links of that chain lying around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when you press out the pin, leave a little sticking out so you have to pop the chain out. It will make pushing it back in much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T21:15:41.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14671" CreationDate="2013-03-01T21:19:23.273" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have both. The freewheel is built into the hub. The cassette is the cluster of gears slides onto the freewheel of the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6263" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T21:19:23.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14671" CreationDate="2013-03-01T21:42:40.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really three components to the multi-speed hub:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hub proper, and most of the bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ratchet mechanism that allows the hub to &quot;freewheel&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sprocket cluster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On older bikes the sprocket cluster and ratchet mechanism are combined, whereas on newer bikes the hub and ratchet mechanism are combined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with &quot;clipless pedals&quot;, the terminology is not chosen to actually make things clear, but simply to avoid reusing terms that were previously used in a different sense.  So cluster+ratchet = &quot;freewheel&quot;, leaving only the hub, while ratchet+hub = &quot;freehub&quot;, leaving the cluster = &quot;cassette&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T21:42:40.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14683" CreationDate="2013-03-01T22:00:22.810" Score="1" ViewCount="9729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy my first MTB and I had an online calculator tell me to get a 17.5&quot;. My measurements are height: 177cm and leg 76cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thing is, I found a bike that I REALLY want, but it's the last one and it's a 15.5&quot; hence the good price. If I don't get this particular one I'll have to get something significantly lower spec as this is massively discounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't intend on doing really long rides ever. Maybe 2 hours max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.5&quot; difference doesn't seem that much.. Will this be ok or am I about to waste allot of money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6265" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T11:56:39.853" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T11:56:39.853" Title="How much smaller frame is ok?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14678" CreationDate="2013-03-01T22:40:11.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ride it, see if it's comfortable. That's the only way to know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T22:40:11.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14332" CreationDate="2013-03-02T03:05:16.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 versions of derailleurs which come with extra large pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The first,&lt;/strong&gt; which is what is being discussed here, are the low end mega-range compatible derailleurs.  A mega-range freewheel has one distinct characteristic which requires compatible derailleurs to have very large cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As seen in the image below, there is a large tooth count difference between the second to largest cog and the largest cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fOmS3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Megarange frewheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This large difference in size requires a large derailleur pulley, to make sure that the chain has cleared the teeth on the last cog, in order to shift into this gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a smaller pulley on the derailleur, you may be able to get it to shift, but it will be clunky and loud at best.  At worst, it will trap the chain against the side of the largest cog, and refuse to shift into that gear at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The second type&lt;/strong&gt; of large pulley derailleur is decidedly not low end.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJrPa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Berner derailleur&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.berner-bikes.com/drupalprod/node/44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Berner Carbon Fiber derailleur upgrades&lt;/a&gt; are designed to reduce resistance on the drive-train by decreasing the severe chain bends associated with smaller cogs. While expensive, my experience has been an average 10 watt reduction in energy used by the cyclist, with no apparent loss of efficiency in shifting, or in anything else other than the cyclist's wallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T03:05:16.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4372" CreationDate="2013-03-02T05:44:28.233" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To protect against ozone and UV damage, a stabilizer molecule called a “competitive absorber” is blended with the tire polymer. Competitive absorbers work by capturing and absorbing UV radiation and converting it to heat which is dissipated harmlessly. All tire manufacturers use the same competitive absorber, carbon black. This is why all tires are black. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6266" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T05:44:28.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14612" CreationDate="2013-03-02T07:40:17.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have thought with a few rachet packing straps you could place the bikes upside down on the roof, secure the handle bars to the frame (so they won't turn) then secure the bikes through the rear door or window (front window as a last resort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a disclaimer I have never seen this done but secured right it should work just like a roof rack and not damage the paint (but hey I reckon the rental company wouldn't check the roof). If the car has basic roof racks you could rig something pretty good up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-03-02T08:27:04.193" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T08:27:04.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14678" CreationDate="2013-03-02T12:41:25.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a bike that's &quot;too small&quot; or &quot;too big&quot; without too many problems, so long as you set it up properly for your own biomechanics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try using this fit calculator instead: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare the bike you really want with the results of the calculator. It will give three separate options, and provide you with a rough idea of whether the bike is likely to be a reasonable fit for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.5&quot; doesn't sound like a lot, but in the world of bike fit it can make a massive difference. Ideally you want to work around things that don't fit by changing components, but you need to know first if changing the components will help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3051" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T12:41:25.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13347" CreationDate="2013-03-02T12:50:44.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few different kinds of bikes you could try. A charity called Wheels for Wellbeing in London has a list of some of them on their website, including trikes, recumbents, and handcycles (as suggested by other people here), the Veloplus (a bit like a trike that you can use to also carry a wheelchair(!)), and side-by-side tandems if you'd like to ride with somebody else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelsforwellbeing.org.uk/?page_id=74&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wheelsforwellbeing.org.uk/?page_id=74&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3051" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T12:50:44.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14669" CreationDate="2013-03-02T13:07:37.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 speed chains aren't designed to rejoined like 7 speed chains. The outer plates are thinner and the pins sit flush with the plates, which leaves little margin for error when reinserting the pin. The pins are often riveted too so they can't be correctly reinserted even if you are able to perfectly line it up. I'd use extra connector links instead of trying to reinsert the pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6267" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T13:07:37.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-02T15:01:48.253" Score="1" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;got a Merida Matts 40-D bike in September/October, now I'm having some issues and need some help fixing them. Bearing in mind I've had this bike that long, I didn't start riding it until mid October and I stopped riding it between mid December and mid January. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly when I first got the bike one pedal was ever so slightly stiffer than the other, I thought nothing of it but about 3 weeks ago the pedal became stiff, so I decided I would re-grease the pedal, did it all, seemed better and then the next day went stiff again. Re-greased it again, this time even freer than the one that is fine, day later it went stiff again. It's so stiff that unless you push on the pedal all the time it flips underfoot. Any ways to fix it without getting new pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my xmas holidays my brakes started to loudly squeal, so I bought the stuff to sand down my pads slightly and to bleed my brakes. I have just got around to bleeding them, they seemed much better to start with but now squeal again. What can I do to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My chain also seems to look odd, unlike any chain I've seen before, it seems as if the outer links are bent outwards slightly. I don't know if this is supposed to be like it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking I should just try and send the bicycle back for a refund, I ride it every day for 5 minutes back and to University, I really didn't expect the bicycle I paid £250 for to have these issues so quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6268" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T16:44:44.740" Title="5 Month old bike, pedals and brake issue" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14692" CreationDate="2013-03-02T16:04:53.073" Score="7" ViewCount="7327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering buying a tow hitch and bike rack for my minivan to transport a few bikes for an upcoming vacation.  I've read a few reviews of these bike racks, and many folks have said that their license plate is not visible with these racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US, is there anything I need to get with my bike rack (license plate frame, extra tail lights, etc.) to make hauling my bikes legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6269" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T07:05:54.927" Title="Are tow-hitch bike racks legal?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-03-04T04:10:37.413" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14686" CreationDate="2013-03-02T16:44:44.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's going to be a limit to what you can do to fix it without spending money on new parts. The bearings in your pedal for instance might have seized - you could take the pedal apart and regrease the bearings, but if they're toast then you'll have to buy either replacement bearings themselves or pay a few quid for a new pedal entirely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TBH if I were you I'd take the bike back for a refund and spend that £250 on something second-hand instead. You can get a nice-ish older bike for that kind of money with much better quality parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3051" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T16:44:44.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14716" CreationDate="2013-03-02T19:32:14.577" Score="3" ViewCount="868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a mountainous area, and so there are lots of opportunities for descending at high speed. I currently have a bike with drop bars, and when in the drops, I feel very stable doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now in the market for a new bike, and I'm thinking I might like to switch to flat bars. However, on my current bike, I feel quite unstable on the tops at speed. Can the new bike (it is a custom frame) be designed to feel and be stable at high speed (say, over 40 MPH) with flat bars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T15:56:13.930" Title="Are flat handlebars stable at high speed?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14687" CreationDate="2013-03-02T19:50:28.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will be state depended, and the law enforcement response is likely very localized (down to individual officer responses). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I live (outside US) it is illegal to have the numberplate obscured. We have a choice to either temporarily relocate the plate, or we can buy a Supplementary plate. In both cases we have no obligation for number plate lighting provided the main plate is in it's correct place when that is not obscured. As far as local law enforcement - the only problem is you will get pinged rarely - usually a cop who has not got his ticket quota this month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people print there numberplate onto a piece of card and use that - whilst not legal I have not heard of anyone being ticketed for doing it, but i have heard of people being ticketed for not having anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best option is talk to a local bike shop - the one you are buying the rack from - and ask them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T19:50:28.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14689" CreationDate="2013-03-02T20:57:59.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect one of the reasons you feel unstable riding on the tops on your current bike is because your hands are to the inside of the drops, positioned so close to the stem it makes it hard to control the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 'flat' bar your hands will be positioned much further apart (maybe even more so then when in the drops on your current bike), providing more stability and control of the front end of your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, my suggestion would be to visit your LBS and take a test ride of a bike with flat bars down one of your local mountains to see if you feel stable or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T20:57:59.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14687" CreationDate="2013-03-02T21:07:30.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have indicated, vehicular laws vary from state to state and as such, laws about license plate display will too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a lot of uniformity between states' vehicular laws. You can most likely count on a couple things regarding the display of your license plates: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is most likely a state statute dictating that your license plate must be clearly visible. How exactly they define that will vary from state to state.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is also most likely a statute dictating where your license plate must be placed. I.e., not more or less than a certain distance from the ground. And although I'm not aware of a state that does this, it's not unthinkable that there would be something requiring that the license plate be horizontally centered on the rear of your vehicle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I live in Missouri and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moga.mo.gov/statutes/C300-399/3010000130.HTM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;our laws&lt;/a&gt; say: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;301.140. Each such plate shall be securely fastened to the motor vehicle or trailer in a manner so that all parts thereof shall be plainly visible and reasonably clean so that the reflective qualities thereof are not impaired. Each such plate may be encased in a transparent cover so long as the plate is plainly visible and its reflective qualities are not impaired. License plates shall be fastened to all motor vehicles except trucks, tractors, truck tractors or truck-tractors licensed in excess of twelve thousand pounds on the front and rear of such vehicles not less than eight nor more than forty-eight inches above the ground, with the letters and numbers thereon right side up.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the exact wording of your laws will be different. You should really look them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also note that it is not just tow hitch racks that can obscure a license plate. Many trunk racks will also obscure the  plate if it is placed on the trunk and not the bumper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T21:07:30.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14678" CreationDate="2013-03-03T00:54:05.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most critical thing is the &quot;reach&quot; -- how far forward and up/down the handlebars are from the seat, relative to your torso and arm length and, shall we say, avoirdupois.  Too short a reach and the torso must curl up, compressing the lungs and causing strain, and the ability to assume an aerodynamic crouch (if you would wish to do so) is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, too long a reach places a strain on the arms and back and significantly increases the pressure on the hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving the seat back to increase &quot;reach&quot; makes the angle between torso and legs more acute.  Up to a point this moves one closer to the &quot;sweet spot&quot; of maximum power from the legs, but this can go too far, plus the problem with an over-ample gut compressing the lungs is increased.  Moving the seat forward generally moves one away from the &quot;sweet spot&quot; and also increases the weight on the hands and arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving the handlebar forward/back to adjust &quot;reach&quot; upsets steering stability/agility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A too-small bike may (in rare cases) not allow the seat to be raised high enough to attain full leg extension, or (more often) not allow the handlebar to be high enough for comfort.  A too-large bike may not allow the seat to go low enough, forcing the cyclist to slide side-to-side as he pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T00:54:05.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-03T01:46:32.077" Score="7" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding a lot thins winter in spite of unusually snowy, icy, and slushy conditions. While I know how to lube and clean my chain and can deal with other accumulated filth, I'm having trouble with my V-brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm squeezing the brakes, they work fine. That's the most important thing, but the problem starts when I release the brakes and continue riding. The brake arms aren't pulling the brakes back off the rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake arms have springy metal rods that are supposed to pull the brakes back when they're not being applied to the rims. Those springy rods are working as usual but the brake arms are firmly stuck and don't move back and forth freely. The force of my hands through my cables is enough to force them but the springy rods is not. I removed the brake assemblies and they're really resistant to swinging and salt encrusted at the ring where the motion happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know weather there are bearings inside or just metal sleeves rubbing against each other, but I can't reach inside the mechanism to lubricate anything. I tried scraping the salt out and scrubbing with a damp cloth and that improved things but still isn't really satisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like advice about what to do or any information about the internals of V-brakes. If it's just metal sleeves, I'll immerse them in warm water and rinse them out. If it's bearings, I guess they're not user-serviceable. Or maybe there's some secret I'm not seeing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help me out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T21:16:00.530" Title="What should I do about salt in V-brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;salt&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14687" CreationDate="2013-03-03T07:05:54.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much every state in the US and most countries have some sort of law saying your license plate can't be obstructed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, can anyone cite any place in the world where they enforce those laws so strictly that a plate slightly and unintentionally obscured has even a remote chance of resulting in some sort of enforcement action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly nowhere I've ever heard of.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T07:05:54.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-03T11:16:48.257" Score="0" ViewCount="7059" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi Just wanted to ask how to make my bike faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I change the front chainring to a larger one, if so do I have to get a whole new drive train or can I just get another shimano large ring. Can I get a smaller cog at the back, will that make my bike faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please take a look at my bike. here are the specs &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifters: R660 Shimano trigger, Front derailleur: R453 Shimano, Rear derailleur: Shimano Sora, Cassette: FAC MICHE 9s 12X26 Bottom bracket: FC453 Shimano 50/39/30, Chain: KMC Z9000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here's the site with more information &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.btwin.com/en/fitness-road-bikes/3856-b-twin-forme-5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.btwin.com/en/fitness-road-bikes/3856-b-twin-forme-5.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to know if I can change anything to make it faster but I don't know what to change. thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;David&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6272" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T20:17:51.870" Title="I need help on how to make my bike faster" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-03-04T04:10:51.890" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14727" CreationDate="2013-03-03T14:11:41.773" Score="1" ViewCount="12598" Body="&lt;p&gt;My relatively new Garmin GSC 10 Speed/Cadence unit has started losing connection to my Garmin 500. I'm assuming that the battery is running out, since I'm still using the original that came with it. I have done about 35 hours of riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am wondering: how long should a CR 2032 battery last? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is a little subjective and will depend on ambient temperature and to a lesser extent speed and cadence for transiently illuminating the LED each pedal stroke/wheel revolution. But generally, how many hours can I expect to get from a battery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1090" LastActivityDate="2017-06-26T11:52:42.947" Title="How long will a battery last in a Garmin GSC 10?" Tags="&lt;cadence&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14697" CreationDate="2013-03-03T16:37:43.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a nice &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gear calculator&lt;/a&gt; at Sheldon's site. I did a quick calculation for you, and at 50/12, at 90 RPM, you should be going 47.4 km/h.  If you upgraded your front chainring to a 54, and your back cassette to go down to 11, at the same RPM you could go 55.8 km/h, which is a significant increase.  You can play around with different options on the calculator to see how much it would help to get different gearing combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find that you won't get much extra speed out of bigger gears as your bike has a somewhat upright posture and therefore you'll be quite limited in what kind of speed you can get.  I think that 50 km/h is plenty fast for a bike and that you should just focus more on going faster on the flats and uphills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T16:37:43.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14697" CreationDate="2013-03-03T20:17:51.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;By far the easiest option is change the cassette to an 26*11. Reducing the smallest cog from 12 to 11 will give you about 9% more speed for the same cadence. To get the same out the front, you would need to go to a 54 large chain ring. An other option would be to go to a 52/12 - quite a common size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You failed to mention what wheel size you are running - this has a big impact on gearing..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Danial asked though - 50/11 is an insanely large top gear (assuming 700C wheels), very few people could push that for any length of time.  It is unlikely your speed problem is gearing with a 50/12 - is you cadence high enough?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T20:17:51.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4183" CreationDate="2013-03-03T21:07:28.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Powder coating production has come a long way, and I know at least three shops local to Portland, OR that will do a single bike frame and fork for under $100, which includes a thorough media blasting and some peripheral services. I get a lot of that work done on bike frames I repair and build, and I've gotten excellent deals on larger volumes of work. Occasionally Ill do my own custom paint work, touch ups, pinstriping and such, and if you don't have the experience of doing production work, no amount of care and time will equal the deft hands of a professional. I build an occasional show bike, in which case there's cause to do an uncommonly fine paint job, and for that there's nothing like many coats of lacquer and a hand rubbed surface. Its easy to get great looking results on a bike frame with just rubbing compound by hand because the convex surface of the tube maximizes the friction and you just have to correct the buffing lines to the length of the tube and they disappear into the mirror finish. too fragile for your daily ride, but it bears mentioning, and anyone can do it. Its not practical for a daily driver, but it looks nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the cost of a bottom bracket tool for your socket set, you can save painting your bottom bracket firmly into place, and even though they're not hard to mask, even the tiniest bit of paint on a headset just looks rubbish, so do it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6277" LastEditorUserId="721" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T00:51:36.213" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T00:51:36.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14695" CreationDate="2013-03-03T21:16:00.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If @ Daniel R Hicks suggestion doesn't work you might need some more intense maintainence. Remove the brake cables from the calipers. Then remove the brakes from the bike, disassemble them completely. Clean all the salt and corrosion from the shaft and the pivot holes of the brake arms. Lightly lube the pivot points and shaft (I am partial to white grease) with a small paint brush. Reassemble the caliper and remount. You may want to do just the front first, that way you have the rear as an example if you get confused during the reassembly. Once everything is cleaned up, a periodic rinse and relube should keep things moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T21:16:00.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14707" CreationDate="2013-03-03T22:58:49.553" Score="1" ViewCount="1922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my touring bike set up with drop bars, very similar to this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/neilfein/2504364860/.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JxvAj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of drop bars&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after riding all day for a few days, I tend to miss additional position(s) to avoid minor annoyances such as &quot;numb fingers&quot; and sore back and neck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to never use the drop bar racing position, but stick to the position where you hold top of the brakes and the position where you hold the straight part of the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I miss is an alternative (and probably more upright) position. Triathlon aero-bars is an obvious suggestion for additional positions, but not really what I'm looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore: what are creative ideas on how to add additional positions to a drop bar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2375" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T00:47:41.363" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T06:46:19.990" Title="Extend drop bars with additional positions" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-04T00:50:05.383" Score="3" ViewCount="8035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not bought one yet, and I am very new to the sport. The type of riding I will be doing is dirt jumps (rather large ones) and rugged trail riding. I used a BMX for these things previously, which actually worked out pretty well. As a newbie to the sport, I am just wondering: which type of rear shock would be best to look for: air, or coil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want something that is going to be easiest to maintain, and most efficient while riding. A bike I have been looking at is the Scott Voltage FR 30/20/10 models (these all have a spring rear shock) or a Trek Slash 9/8/7 model (which have a hydraulic type shock). I am leaning towards the Scott Voltage bikes, they look simpler, but I am unsure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6279" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2017-12-27T14:01:19.120" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T14:01:19.120" Title="Should I get an air sprung or a coil sprung rear shock FS mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14705" CreationDate="2013-03-04T01:10:22.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has a page about a&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/org/thorn/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dding a second set of handlebars above your first set&lt;/a&gt;. It looks terrible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wj9X4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;thorn two handlebars&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not give that a shot? Sounds like it will fulfil your desires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T01:10:22.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14706" CreationDate="2013-03-04T05:15:17.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hydraulic shock will have better damping...which is what a shock is supposed to do: dampen the hits to your suspension.  Hydraulic shocks still have an air spring.  Spring shocks are the cheaper way to go - just not as good.  High end bikes will have a hydraulic shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6281" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T05:15:17.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14705" CreationDate="2013-03-04T06:46:19.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My main bike (a tandem) is a bit small, and I need to get a taller stem, but in the meantime, I'm using some bar ends similar to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nYqBe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bar ends&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones I've got are bent a bit more, closer to 90 degrees.  I've mounted them sticking straight up, which gives me a hand position pretty much parallel to my bars, but a few inches higher.  The only picture I've got right now isn't very clear, but you can sort-of see how the bar ends are positioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CcxhT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you'd have to do a lot more work to get the bar ends on, unless you can find a set with a clamp that's hinged and opens up completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T06:46:19.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14706" CreationDate="2013-03-04T08:53:43.180" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're mixing up two different concepts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damper, which is what slows things down.&#xA;The spring, which is what holds the weight and absorbs shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damper is usually hydraulic, oil being forced through a small hole.&#xA;The spring is either a coil or pressurised air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a damper, you'll have a very bouncy ride and without a spring, you'll have a very stiff ride. The 2 work together to provide a nice ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, those 2 bikes target different styles of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Slash is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enduro_%28Mountain-biking%29&quot;&gt;Enduro&lt;/a&gt; bike and the Voltage a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freeride&quot;&gt;Freeride&lt;/a&gt; bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T08:53:43.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7703" CreationDate="2013-03-04T14:45:15.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2010 Trek Navigator 3.0 is a quality bike capable of being ridden as far as your rear will stand.  My longest single day ride was 50 miles on this bike.  The gearing on the Trek is quite Low having a similar 34 tooth cassette as some mountain bikes and most certainly lower geared than most of the road bikesI've examined.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2010, I put 1500 miles on it and upgraded to a Surly LHT after I convinced myself that biking was going to remain a part of my life.  I am 6'2 and ~230 so I am a big guy, but the bike did not care.  Trek builds three versions of the Navigator old ones are 100 - 300 and the newer ones are 1.0 - 3.0 with the 3 series having better components, ie, shifters, seats, hand grips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem for long rides with this bike is also it's advantage. According to bike shop employees, most Comfort customers ride less than 10 miles at a time and the upright position is very comfortable.  Road and touring bikes distribute the weight over the seat and the bars and while it took my arms awhile to stop aching from the change on the LHT, eventually you find yourself quite comfortable in that non-upright position.  Must be why they build so many that are NOT upright. The simple point is that after 10 miles my hands and my rear hurt and that means stopping more frequently than you or your friends will like on a long ride. Several 'fittings' impacted my wallet but not hands or my rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I see the Hybrids in the comfort class, but with skinny tires and better shifters. You still ride them upright though. To be fair though, my Daughter-in-Law ~45, can ride a century on her Hybrid, and I only wish I could keep up with her for 5 miles, much less a 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Navigator served me very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T14:45:15.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14706" CreationDate="2013-03-04T15:12:10.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First step: clear the confusion. As other answer states, the spring and the damper are complementary systems that work together in order to provide the desired ride characteristics. As for bike suspenssion regards, there are two main kinds of suspension components, based on the type of spring: Coil and Air. Most suspensions have hydraulic dampers regardless of the spring type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second step: To each its own. Asking wether air or coil is beter can get you in those kind of almost religious debate. Instead, I'll try to expose a few points of comparison so you can make a better decision:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air Spring:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight less than coils.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are easily adjustable to a broader range of rider weight/activity type/ride skill or technique.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a cleaner, simpler look.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of them require a special pump to increase the spring preload (reduce sag).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coil Spring:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Usually have a lower cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are heavier than air springs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most can have the preload/sag adjusted by hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a narowwer range of adjustment, to make further adjustment the coil has to be replaced by a different one, wich may not be easily obtainable in your particular location or may not be available from the manufacturer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a messier look and require a little more dedication for routine cleaning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further up, it is more important wether the shok absorber is the correct fit for the bike frame and the discipline in wich it will be used. For example, a shock designed exclusively for XC may never excel on DH for a normal wheigted rider. If you are buying a complete bike directly from the manufacturer or a reputable dealer, they should only offer the correct shocks for the frame, so it's up to you to choose a bike that fit your intended use. Also if the same bike is available with different shock options, make sure the one you pick is suitable for your riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, getting the right equipment is only the beginning of a customizing process. If you are changin the type of bike, you will have to go throug a fitting and fine tuning cycle that will be somewhat affected by your own ability to adapt to a new geometry, weight and ride characteristics. This process involves fine adjustments to the shocks. Most shocks have at least these adjustments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preload (or how stiff the shock feels)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rebound speed (how fast the suspension returns after a bump).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some specialized shocks may have more adjustments. In either case, read the shock specific user manual for the model you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All of the above also applyes to MTB suspension forks, except for the looks and the routine cleaning part.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T15:12:10.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14689" CreationDate="2013-03-04T15:56:13.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, understand that the geometry of the bike affects stability, especially the &quot;marriage&quot; between head angle and fork rake.  Adjusting these parameters (which can really only be &quot;adjusted&quot; by the frame builder) has a very dramatic effect on stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, the hand position has an effect in a couple of ways.  First, if the hand position is more forward, it tends to &quot;pull&quot; the steering tube straight, reducing &quot;responsiveness&quot; and making it easier to hold the front wheel straight, while a more rearward position will make the steering more responsive and maybe &quot;twitchy&quot;.  Similarly, an outboard hand position will allow the arms to brace the bar more, while an inboard position allows less torque to be applied to the steering tube.  Finally, when riding on the drops one can (with a bar of a certain geometry) brace the lower arm against the corner of the top of the bar, adding more rigidity than would be present with just the hands on the drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that weight distribution (eg, how forward/aft and high/low the rider's center of gravity is) also has an effect.  Riding on the drops or not affects this to a degree.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But remember that rigidity does not equal control.  A &quot;stable&quot; bike will take a bump and re-balance itself more or less automatically, due to steering tube geometry, et al, somewhat independent of hand position.  It's good to have a bar that allows you to apply the &quot;desired&quot; amount of torque to the steering tube (based on your preference for responsiveness vs stability), but if all that's doing is letting you fight poor inherent bike stability that's not a good trade-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T15:56:13.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14728" CreationDate="2013-03-05T08:36:55.453" Score="9" ViewCount="20374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting a steel frame to upgrade from my aluminum xc bike. As it will be my first steel frame I'd like to understand if there is more after ride care required than my current bike. Usually after rides now I generally just wipe off the staunchions and wash only on the weekends. If I had a steel frame that had been rust proofed would I have to do much different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T13:16:47.000" Title="How to care for a steel frame?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-05T09:43:14.223" Score="3" ViewCount="17521" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is my first time here and i am new in the bike sport. I have a mtb for a month now and i usually use it for road trips with some dirt intervals. It has a 7 speed shimano cassette (14-34) and on the road it seems too light now. I would like to change it to an 8 or 9 speed cassette with 11-30 or 11-32 assembly. Is this possible with my current hub or will i need to replace the whole rear assembly? Of course i will also change the shifter. &#xA;Thank you all in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6289" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T23:48:50.483" Title="7 speed to 8 or 9 speed cassette change" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14719" CreationDate="2013-03-05T13:47:54.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to change the whole hub, but you might well find it easier to do so. You will need a new freehub body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new hub assembly might be wider - &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#standard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#standard&lt;/a&gt; - in which case you will need to redish the wheel to get it central again. You can probably get away with using the same axle, as also described on that page, but you might need a new quick release skewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you may need to spring the dropouts apart by 5mm. If you don't have a steel frame, and it's 130mm at the moment, give up and live with the 7 speed.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#frameadjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#frameadjustment&lt;/a&gt; (or use a road hub, I guess).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: heltonbiker makes a good point about freehub vs. freewheel. I'd been considering upgrading my own bike which has a 7 speed cassette on freehub, and forgotten that a newer 7 speed might well be a freewheel, even though your question does say cassette. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(And even if you really mean cassette, someone else searching might have a freewheel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="1158" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T13:13:02.533" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T13:13:02.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4768" CreationDate="2013-03-05T19:59:33.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to very careful mixing and matching freehubs and cassettes. If this had been me, I think I would have been pursuing a claim against the shop in question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested, the 3 bolts holding the cassette together could have been removed allowing the gears to slide further on. However, there are problems here also. If you run a cassette like this, the individual sprockets slowly begin to loosen. If you are a steady rider, not covering many miles you might get away with it. If you are a strong rider I would say never remove these bolts or 'rivets' !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has happened to me twice, and it took a while to figure out what was going on. What happens is that when you are pedaling hard (in say the middle gear) it begins to move very slightly under the load. As this takes place it burnishes the sides of the sprocket and it's neighbours. This creates a small gap, and of course all the sprockets begin to move - and that creates more rubbing etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those 3 pins installed, the load is shared across all the sprockets, and they effectively rotate as one locked assembly. Shimano know what they are doing with those pins... Sheldon's recommendation to remove these pins is misguided. Please don't remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6294" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T01:44:39.900" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T01:44:39.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14725" CreationDate="2013-03-05T21:27:23.543" Score="20" ViewCount="45141" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seem to be a lot of different lens options for sunglasses, and there must be objective differences. For example, I've seen golf lenses advertised as filtering out blue light to improve reading of greens, but this would not seem to have any benefit for cycling. What particular tint colors are most useful for cycling sunglasses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be adequate to stick to neutral-colored filters (which would presumably be ideal for enjoying the scenery), or do any particular colors provide a significant advantage? Do photochromic (a.k.a. photochromatic or Transitions) lenses vary the darkness ideally, or is it really better to have multi-lens glasses with a few different colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related questions: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5673/sunglasses-for-commuting&quot;&gt;Sunglasses for commuting?&lt;/a&gt; (which asks for recommendations for brands/models of sunglasses), &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1666/what-are-the-features-that-i-should-seek-in-cycling-glasses&quot;&gt;What are the features that I should seek in cycling glasses?&lt;/a&gt; (which asks for which features are desirable in general)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T20:38:40.297" Title="What tint colors are most useful for cycling sunglasses?" Tags="&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14718" CreationDate="2013-03-06T00:13:18.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going to be riding in particularly corrosive environments (the beach, salt coverered winter roads, etc.) I recommend doing something to protect the inside of your frame.  I spray some T-9 in the frame of my Surly every couple of rides in the winter.  I've also heard good things about J.P. Weigle Frame Saver.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/tools/cycling-tools/chain-lubricant/product/review-jp-weigle-frame-saver-10220&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/tools/cycling-tools/chain-lubricant/product/review-jp-weigle-frame-saver-10220&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6296" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T00:13:18.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14700" CreationDate="2013-03-06T00:22:37.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my GSC 10 since 2008.  I used to get about 1 to 2 months out of name brand CR2032 batteries, but have since switched to Harbor Freight batteries.  I get about 4 to 6 weeks out of these (a four pack of these costs about the same as a single name brand battery).  Like you said, it all depends on your riding habits and environment though.  The above is based on ~30 miles per day @ ~15-18mph and ~80 to ~95 rpm on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6296" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T00:22:37.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14722" CreationDate="2013-03-06T01:22:46.973" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many factors that influence choices. -  terrain you ride, sunlight intensity, shade effects etc, and personal preference. A quick internet search will give you technical answers on what colors do &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allaboutvision.com/sportsvision/lens-tints-chart.htm&quot;&gt;look here &lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me personally, I mostly Mountain Bike, I live in New Zealand, which has extremely high UV light levels. Therefore I do not venture out for more than an hour without some protection. I will use different glasses for different rides, but only because I have them. For use while riding, the all rounder is Yellow, for other things as well, I would head towards amber. If correct color perception is important, then you will struggle to get glass that work as well as Yellows/Amber's - especially in low light.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of the blue filters (blue blockers) is they lift depth perception and contrast - maybe roadies don't need it, but off road MTB it is a definite advantage.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clear - I use these where protection from things other than sunlight is desirable (insects, sticks, dust etc), and maximum use of available light essential - mostly night riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yellow - I use these a majority of my riding. Do a great job at smoothing the transition from shade to full sunlight (i.e. I can see into dark forest from bright sunlight). On bright days, let too much light in for comfort (But still protect from damaging UV). Mine are specific sports style - not really a fashion accessory.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amber - Similar to yellow, but filter more light, making the shade a bit darker. Probably my most versatile sun glasses - use them when the yellows will look dorky -rides with family, beached etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue/polarised -  Better color perception so I use the driving, fishing and general wear. Mine are pretty much towards the &quot;fashion&quot; end of the style range, not good for riding - too dark for forests.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T01:22:46.973" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14718" CreationDate="2013-03-06T01:42:06.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I am not talking about the things you buy from department store with two wheels for $100.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a mis-perception boarding on conspiracy that steel rusts and aluminum doesn't. Aluminum bikes rust about as much as steel. This is mostly propagated by people who have never owned a decent steel bike and don't know what they are talking about... &#xA;Quality steel does not rust significantly, otherwise how do you think all those bridges and ships don't fall apart after a few years. Do you avoid buying a car made from steel because it rusts? When did you last see an aluminum car (Land Rover - but plenty of them rusted their way to the wreckers yard)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1992 steel MTB that lives outside. Apart from the old surface rust where the frame is scratched, there is no rust on it  - except the chain, nut and bolts, cluster, seat rails..... i.e. all the accessories that an aluminum frame has that are made from steel - hence my assertion that Aluminum bikes rust about as much as steel... The accessories do on both, and the frame doesn't on both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you seen what happens to aluminum when it corrodes, which it does.... I would rather ride a old rusty steel frame than an old, poorly maintained aluminum frame.....   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T01:42:06.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14700" CreationDate="2013-03-06T03:18:40.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I am at 159 hours of riding time on the battery which came with my GSC-10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Garmin's stated battery life for the GSC-10 is 1.4 years at one hour of riding per day which works out to 511 hours. (See page 51 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://static.garmincdn.com/pumac//Edge_500_OM_EN.pdf&quot;&gt;Edge 500's Owner Manual&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the interweb I've come across two different suspected causes for low battery life on the GSC-10: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some (mostly older?) GSC-10's are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;frm=1&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;ved=0CDQQFjAA&amp;amp;url=https://forums.garmin.com/showthread.php?10553-GSC-10-battery-drain&amp;amp;ei=lLI2UdHrEay10QGZroDgBQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNFbx1zA4iOl-g-Kske5pd_pKClCRw&amp;amp;bvm=bv.43287494,d.dmg&quot;&gt;susceptible to corrosion&lt;/a&gt; due to incomplete sealing of the circuit board inside the GSC-10. If this occurs battery life is shortened due to an internal short which causes the battery to drain more quickly than normal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you store your bike with either the cadence or speed magnet lined up with the sensor, the GSC-10 may not go to sleep after a short period of inactivity like it is supposed to. This seems to result in faster than normal battery drain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T03:18:40.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14718" CreationDate="2013-03-06T06:53:42.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a steel frame fixed gear nearly daily in tropical conditions, and near the sea. It really puts the frame through its paces. As far as my experience goes, there's nothing that can be totally rust proofed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using any sort of metal lubricant on the inside of the tubes will certainly help prolong the life of your steel frame. Some may insist on using the tried and proven J.P. Weigle's Frame Saver. The seat tube and bottom bracket are where rust forms the quickest, as moisture gets to them easily. Always remember to lube them, especially after wet rides, as the lubricants can be easily washed away by tire spray and water seeping between the crevices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the inside of the frame, do note that the quality of the paint/clear coat has a great impact on how &quot;rust-proof&quot; the frame is. If the paintwork is chipped, which can easily happen if you ride often, there's a chance that the frame will start rusting from the chip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do care for your steel frame as you did with the aluminum frame. It may be prone to more visible wear and tear, but as long as you take care of it, it's bound to last a lifetime. Steel frames are durable and great to ride on. It's worth the time to take care and maintain them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an extra precaution, I remove almost all the components, except for the crankset/bottom bracket, and give them a thorough wipe down and re-lube once every two months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6298" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T06:53:42.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14718" CreationDate="2013-03-06T13:16:47.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Snikrs and also ride a steel fixed gear frame in often wet UK.  I recently purchased my current frame (upgrade the old one didn't rust through) and before using it sprayed the inside of the frame with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_196239_langId_-1_categoryId_165594&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Waxoyl&lt;/a&gt; but if I had been able to find it in the UK would probably have used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/tools/cycling-tools/chain-lubricant/product/review-jp-weigle-frame-saver-10220&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;J.P. Weigle's Frame Saver&lt;/a&gt; which many people swear by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't like about Waxoyl is it remains quite slimy, I'm not sure if it would be good in a hot climate but it would be better than nothing.  You have to be careful in the seat post area and clean it out to allow the frame to grip the seat post.  But if done with care its not an issue.  I usually just wipe the seat post with an old greasy rag to prevent it sticking in the frame.  It is also important to move the seat post every now and again (3 months maybe) as a stuck seat post can be really hard to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other precautions I took before riding the frame were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stuck a large rubber bung in the base of the steerer column to prevent water entering here (even though I have mudguards).  I had to shorten the bung slightly to prevent it showing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My saddle clamp encloses the top of the seat post if this wasn't the case I would fill this in a similar manner.  This is something I have done on all my frames for the last 20 or more years.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filled every bolt hole with a bolt ensuring ample waterproof grease was applied to the threads. Teflon grease is not great at this I find it gets washed out easily.  Marine grease is much better, I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Waterproof-Grease-Bearings-general-purposes/dp/B00585KBR4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1362574478&amp;amp;sr=8-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unipart Marine&lt;/a&gt; but there are loads available; they are all considerably cheaper than any proprietary bike grease and I use mine for most applications (hubs, headsets etc) and it last much longer between applications (I commute every day in all weathers).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filled all drain holes as described in step 3 of the Bike Radar &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-winterproof-your-road-bike-19872/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;winter proofing article&lt;/a&gt;.  For my frame match sticks were way too small.  I used chopsticks, I found snipping approx 3-5 mm off the end and then cutting 5 mm of chopstick was a perfect fit and pretty flush to the frame.  Before pushing into the hole I coated in the wood in clear nail varnish (not mine) and then again over the top and overlapping slightly onto the frame once inserted.  This varnish prevents water absorption and helps create a seal without using glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally before fitting the bottom bracket I coated the threads of the shell and its interior with the waterproof grease even though already sprayed with Waxoyl.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one step I didn't follow in the Bike Radar article was drilling a hole in the bottom bracket shell.  I couldn't bring myself to put a hole in my nice new frame even though its not a flash one.  I suspect plugging all holes before ever ridding may negate the need for this but I will inspect the bottom bracket shell after a few very wet rides.  If you do drill a hole remember this will open the frame up to rust so paint it or varnish it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally keep on to of scratches.  I usually apply clear nail varnish as you can never get a perfect colour matched paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6081" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T13:16:47.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T14:29:36.643" Score="9" ViewCount="12022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought myself a new mountain bike (my first since my schooldays...) and it has front suspension with a lock-out function.  Suspension is new to me and I'm not sure how to use the lock-out.  It seems I have to stop and take my weight off the bike to lock-out the suspension - is this correct?  Or should I be able to operate the lock-out whilst sat on the bike and I'm just not turning the lock-out hard enough?  As I'm not really sure, I've avoided turning it too hard in case I do some damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6302" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T15:44:35.960" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T01:20:39.947" Title="Do I need to take my weight off the bike to lock out the suspension?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14733" CreationDate="2013-03-06T14:39:48.847" Score="0" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently obtained and then disassemble a Kink Co. BMX. It had a threadless headset. Unexpectedly, instead of having a star nut inside the fork's steer tube, the steer tube was internally threaded (threaded on the inside) and something screwed in. I lost that &quot;something&quot; and have no recollection of what it looked like. What am I working with here? I have never seen a fork like this. I obviously need to replace a part, but can't without any names whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6303" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T16:08:20.743" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T16:08:20.743" Title="Missing a part from an internally threaded steer tube" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14730" CreationDate="2013-03-06T15:10:03.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With an inexpensive coil sprung fork the lock out is often only usable with no weight on the fork. So yours is probably working normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lockouts are most useful for sprinting and climbing, when your weight moves forwards and your putting in more effort that you don't want to waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, don't forget to free it again if you get enar anything bumpy, you can damage a fork like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Personally, even with a remote lockout I rarely use it, except on perfectly smooth tarmac.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T22:38:56.957" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T22:38:56.957" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14731" CreationDate="2013-03-06T15:15:36.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're after one of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=51368&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the same job as a top cap and star nut but has a hole you can run the front brake line down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T15:15:36.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T16:42:52.637" Score="1" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I must have crossed threads like an idiot when I installed pedals for my new SPD cleats. After several miles of riding (~100-200 m), I suddenly got this inexplicable rolly, bumpy motion in my foot. The pedal looked skewed out of the crank arm. I removed it with my pedal wrench. Out came several rings of crank thread material. The pedal is fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous pedals that I removed were aluminum platforms and needed a dousing of degreaser and hot water to come unstuck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could probably screw the pedal back in with the remaining thread in the crank arm. Is this downright stupid to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Some pictures and specs for further review&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pedal is a standard SPD Shimano road. I don't have the specific model number, I lost the box.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWxIe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankset is an Omega FS6. It came prepackaged with my bike which was a rebuild. The former aluminum pedals were locked in there like a nightmare. The bike mechanic used thread sealant. Once I wrenched them off, I tried my best to clear out any offending sealant that remained in the threads.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XXrpF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6305" LastEditorUserId="6305" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T18:03:38.467" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T14:10:19.780" Title="Do I need to replace cranks after newly installed pedals torqued out along with some threads in my crank?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14730" CreationDate="2013-03-06T19:00:18.793" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Less expensive forks have a mechanical lockout. This type of lockout is only usable when the fork is unweighted. Think of it like trying to deadbolt your door when it's still ajar.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; Higher end forks- coil or air- use a hydraulic lockout. There's a lot going on inside them but to simplify things a bit, there are two valves in the damper of most mid-high end forks that allow oil to pass through and both only work in one direction. One allows oil to pass through when you hit a bump, the other allows oil to pass through on the rebound from that bump. When you engage the lockout on one of these forks it basically closes the valve that allows oil to pass through when you hit a bump, however the rebound valve stays open allowing the fork to return to it's original position. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So back to your original question-&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No, there is nothing wrong with your fork. The lockout is working as expected and don't force it or you might break it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T19:00:18.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T19:02:43.937" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wondered if anybody could shed some light? I am attempting to put 700x32c gatorskin tyres on to a hybrid rim but am really having trouble getting the last 15cm on to the rim. The tyres that I had on previously were 700x42c. Should these fit or am I just kidding myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6306" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T20:53:27.927" Title="gatorskin tyres" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-03-06T20:56:48.893" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14734" CreationDate="2013-03-06T20:16:56.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, yes, you need to replace. You can try heli-coil, but I wouldn't for this application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T20:16:56.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14734" CreationDate="2013-03-06T21:04:50.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your cranks are pretty much toast, and even if you try to fix them, you'll always be suspicious of them and won't be able to ride hard without worry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toss them in the trash and get new ones, and be more thorough when reinstalling your pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T21:04:50.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14741" CreationDate="2013-03-06T21:17:21.533" Score="13" ViewCount="26782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to ride with a hydration pack when I mountain bike in the winter since all sorts of nasty stuff gets tossed up at my bottles.  However, I've had issues with the tube or valve getting clogged due to the water inside freezing during rides in the low 20s Fahrenheit (roughly -5°C). It's really hard to deal with this issue while you're out in the woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to prevent this from freezing so quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2017-03-04T18:15:58.087" LastActivityDate="2019-08-23T08:29:47.807" Title="How to keep my hydration pack tubes and valve from freezing?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14740" CreationDate="2013-03-06T21:55:27.773" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see snowboarders with an insulating cover over the tube. If that doesn't provide enough insulation, I've worn my pack under my jacket leaving the entire pack, tube and bite valve covered and insulated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a 3 foot Hydration Pack Insulated Drink Tube Cover on &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009SF24SE&quot;&gt;amazon&lt;/a&gt; for $7 US&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T21:55:27.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14740" CreationDate="2013-03-07T01:16:24.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tube has a lot of surface area and not a lot of volume, so it's going to lose heat quickly compared to the reservoir. In addition to insulating the tube mentioned by Glenn Gervais you can start with hot water in the reservoir and frequently drink a little bit to keep reheating the tube. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.masterskier.com/article.asp?aid=268&quot;&gt;Nordic skiing article&lt;/a&gt; discusses this technique in more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try a Nordic skiing water bottle holder like the one in this (5 part!) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nordicskiracer.com/news.asp?NewsID=5812&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;. I've noticed while skiing that a horizontal bottle seems stay ice free at the valve longer. In a vertical holder, turning the bottle upside down also helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never tried this, but you might also try to keep the water in the reservoir warm by attaching a chemical hand/foot warmer to the outside of the bag. Test it first to check that it won't damage the plastic bag, though I wouldn't expect something made to keep near your skin would get hot enough. Don't put it in the bag though. If it leaks it's probably dangerous to your health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T01:16:24.613" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14740" CreationDate="2013-03-07T02:03:10.107" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trick is to blow the water back up the tube and into the reservoir right after you take a drink.  This will keep your tube and bite valve from freezing.  This works well even at below freezing temperatures when skiing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5371" LastEditorUserId="5371" LastEditDate="2016-11-23T20:20:37.353" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T20:20:37.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-07T02:41:37.750" Score="2" ViewCount="4876" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I have read Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;All About Bicycle Chainline&lt;/a&gt; article I'm still struggling to understand a key point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are running a different chainline to the manufacturers (new crankset) can this be adjusted for in spacing of the rear axle? Essentially the question is, does the frame drive the chainline or the components and set up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T11:38:34.503" Title="Chainline Alignment Front and Rear" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14744" CreationDate="2013-03-07T05:20:33.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a number of things that affect and can be tuned to adjust chainline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom bracket shell width. If the bottom bracket is wider, the chainline is going to be further out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom bracket spindle length. A longer spindle can be used in a narrower shell to give the same chainline as a wider shell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank sizing. Cranks are usually designed towards a certain chainline and mixing and matching these can alter it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainring positioning. You can space out your chainrings to move them further from the crank spider.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame spacing, hub size &amp;amp; dishing. Using these you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; build a hub that is farther to one side than the other and dish the wheel back to the center line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these adjustments are time consuming and a hassel, or need you yo carefully buy new parts. If this is bike has a derailler then your chainline is never going to be correct anyway and I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your question, the frame tends to set a lower limit to the chainline in the front and an upper limit in the rear. With careful component choice you can always make a good chainline (most framebuiders are unlikely to stick a 73mm BB on a frame with 120mm rear spaceing, I would guess).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T05:20:33.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14744" CreationDate="2013-03-07T07:57:39.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither the frame nor the components drive the chainline individually. Rather it's a combination of the two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume for one second that there was only one type of frame. That is: bottom bracket shells are all the same and rear triangle spacing is all the same. That's not true at all, but let's pretend for just one second...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that were the case, a crankset that were slightly wider than other cranksets would pull the chaineline outward in the front and a narrower crankset would pull the chainline inward in the front. (Essentially the width of a cranskset is a function of the bottom bracket and the spindle, but when you throw in different manfuacturers it gets messy.) The same would be true of the rear hub. A narrower hub would pull the chainline inward in the rear while a wider hub would push it outward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as I indicated previously, frames are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; all the same. On the flipside of that, let's forget everything I previously said and &lt;em&gt;pretend&lt;/em&gt; for a minute that all frames &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; the same and all hubs and all bottom brackets are different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely to our previous make-believe world, a wider bottom bracket shell would pull the chainline outward in the front and a wider rear triangle spacing would do so in the rear. It should be obvious at this point that either one of these things would have to be compensated for by wider corresponding componentry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to reiterate the answer to your specific question: Neither the frame nor the components drive the chainline. Rather, it is a combination of the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not proper chaineline can be achieved through spacing out the rear axle depends at least partly on the frame material. I.e, steel can be spaced out more than aluminum and carbon. More specifically, carbon can't be spaced out at all and spacing out aluminum isn't recommended (although I've heard second and third hand of people making it work, no personal experience though). However, if your frame spacing is too wide, you can always add spacers to the hub/axle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question that I think you mean to ask: you can almost always (especially on a geared bike) achieve proper (or at least acceptable) chainline, either through spacers in the crankset/bottom bracket or spacers in the hub/cassette.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you decide to put the spacers is ultimately a product of your specific frame/component combination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T07:57:39.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14750" CreationDate="2013-03-07T08:56:06.557" Score="1" ViewCount="2162" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIgGx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The tyre on my bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what spec inner tube I need for this tyre? I discovered the one I'd previously bought didn't look fat enough when I got my first puncture with it the other day, now I'm in the process of getting the kit I need to quickly fix punctures on the way to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much!&#xA;John.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T09:57:14.813" Title="What inner tube do I need for this tyre?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-07T09:09:56.467" Score="11" ViewCount="25428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of giving up my heavy Trek mountain bike for a folding bike. Anyone made the move to folding bike regretted it? Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be using it around town, shopping, etc. We have a small apartment without storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6311" LastEditorUserId="6311" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T12:11:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T06:16:20.027" Title="Folding bike vs mountain bike" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14748" CreationDate="2013-03-07T09:40:41.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether a folding bike is worthwhile for you would depend entirely on how you intend to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an argument for saying that the average rail commuter would be better served by two cheap/secondhand hybrid/mountain bikes locked at the start/end train stations, because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With larger wheels and a more conventional geometry, a mountain bike would probably give a better, faster ride than even the best folding bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They'd cost less than a good quality folding bike. Maybe half as much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you absolutely must be able to store the bike in a very small location such as under your desk or in the boot of your car, then it has to be a folding bike, or possibly something with S+S couplings that can be taken apart and packed away (although that's more expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c8Lqz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;S+S coupling bike packed for travel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T09:51:39.240" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T09:51:39.240" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14747" CreationDate="2013-03-07T09:40:57.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like 28 x 1 3/8 (although I did have to squint a bit!), or 700 x 35 if you prefer metric. I think they're pretty standard, I seem to remember having a hybrid that had this size wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the first result on a google search shows one on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kenda-Tube-35-40-Presta-valve/dp/B0011HW086/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1362649715&amp;amp;sr=8-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;. That particular one is a Kenda but I'd lay odds that all the main manufacturers will make this size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards an on-the-road fix, I carry a repair kit (glue &amp;amp; patches) but to be honest would only use if absolutely necessary. Its pretty cheap, and certainly easier, to carry a spare tube. That plus a couple of levers, plus a small pump or CO2, should get you home. I like to carry some disposable latex gloves as well, just to minimise how mucky I get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start getting regular punctures, look more at what tyres you're riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T09:57:14.813" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T09:57:14.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14748" CreationDate="2013-03-07T12:32:21.723" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;My stable contains two folding bikes, and I love them both. I use them for different purposes. If this is going to be your only bike and you want to use that bike for cargo (with racks, etc), I recommend against using a folding bike unless it's one with larger wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disadvantages of folders:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For offroad riding, nothing beats a standard rigid-frame mountain bike. If you forsee a decent amount of offroad riding, I strongly recommend against getting any folding bike.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coasting on a folding bike isn't quite as easy, due to the diminished momentum of the smaller wheels. This is a very minor point, though. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting parts for a folding bike can sometimes be a little more difficult. A little planning can alleviate this, as can keeping spare tubes, spokes, etc around the house. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounting panniers on a folder's rear rack tends to result in heelstrike, unless you have a folder with a very long wheelbase that's meant for touring. If you want to use this bike for shopping, that's a point against folders. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Folding bikes are more expensive, and can be heavier, then their non-folding counterparts. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Folders usually have a weight limit. The wheels are usually smaller and therefore sturdier than larger wheels, but the frame is a limiting factor. For example, the Dahon Curve has a rider limit of 100kg/220lbs. (When I bought mine, that was an across-the-board limitation, but they may have improved that.) So if you're a big guy, look into this.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advantages of folders:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storage is easier, obviously. A plus in small apartments. It's also simpler to put the bike in a car trunk or back seat, or take it on public transportation. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can accelerate crazy fast on a folding bike, for the same reason you have to put a little more effort into coasting - the wheels are smaller and therefore lighter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small wheels are fun! Folding bikes can be more nimble than bikes with full-sized wheels. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love folding bikes, but unless you have no other options, a small-wheeled folding bike wouldn't be a good fit for your purposes. A folding bike with 26&quot; or even 20&quot; wheels, however, might work very well if you can fit it with a rear rack. Try one out in a store and see how it feels and if you can carry cargo easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T14:20:47.310" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T14:20:47.310" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14754" CreationDate="2013-03-07T12:34:25.607" Score="8" ViewCount="4601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute 17 miles to and from work each day on a road bike, and I recently picked up a puncture. This was no problem. However, on my ride to work this morning it was raining rather heavily and there was a lot of standing water on the road. I have somehow managed to get water into my rear tire. I was wondering if this is normal and should I deflate the tire and let the water out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I also get a new back tire? I can’t see any holes in it and the inner tube only had the smallest of holes in it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6314" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T14:24:10.327" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T10:56:56.533" Title="Water in my back tire" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14734" CreationDate="2013-03-07T12:59:12.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I foolishly did something similar and rode on just loose enough pedals long enough that they started orbiting and carved a nice wedge right out of the crank, destroying them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that is where you might be headed here.  Get new cranks.  Alas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T12:59:12.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14752" CreationDate="2013-03-07T13:01:21.603" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you mean water is in the tire - between tire and tube - or in the tube?  The only way for water to get in the tube would be via the valve (or, very rarely, if you rode the punctured tire flat for an extended period).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water between tire and tube is no big deal -- should work its way out quickly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the tube should probably be drained (requiring removing tube from tire) and would be most likely due to water in your pump (or a compressor used to fill the tire).  Cycle the pump a few strokes before putting it on the valve, if you've ridden in the rain recently, and make sure any compressor you use is drained regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T13:01:21.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14748" CreationDate="2013-03-07T13:11:28.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're only using it for riding a bit around town, possibly using multi-modal train or bus connections (they are popular with London tube riders), small shopping trips, or commuting to work and you are not concerned about doing fast road rides, off road riding, or super long rides then a folding bike could be a good fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I borrowed a folding bike and found that I could fold it up in about 30 seconds and put it in a carrying bag rather easily after I did it about 5-10 times. At first it will take a minute or two while you are learning the proper order to fold and unfold (single speed and internally geared hub models are less complicated to fold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They store very small and you can toss them in a closet when not in use. They are a bit heavy to carry around for long distances, but a lot of them can be pulled around by their seat while coasting on one wheel or a caster installed below the bottom bracket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hell, some people even tour on their bromptons: &lt;a href=&quot;http://pathlesspedaled.com/2012/08/the-brompton-touring-book-is-here/&quot;&gt;http://pathlesspedaled.com/2012/08/the-brompton-touring-book-is-here/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to go this way, I'd stick with the small 20in or smaller wheeled models from Dahon or Brompton. Larger wheels mean more weight and larger folded size, which negates a lot of the benefits of having a folder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T13:11:28.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14719" CreationDate="2013-03-07T14:06:28.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently upgraded my wife's bike from 7 to 9. I replaced rear hub (old hub had threaded freewheel, not cassette), chain, cassette, rear mech and shifter. Also replaced gear cables (as inner and outer) but that might not be required. &#xA;It is likely that you'll need to do all of that. Even if your hub has 7sp cassette mount, it is unlikely to accommodate 9sp cassette, as they have different width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite a radical upgrade, but well worth it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T14:06:28.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14734" CreationDate="2013-03-07T14:10:19.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done something like that ages ago. But had a friend working in CNC shop - he made a steel insert to fix the threads. And 10 years after - the cranks are still going fine. But not everyone have access to CNC machinery. So it might be easier and cheaper to replace the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T14:10:19.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10459" CreationDate="2013-03-07T14:30:14.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use the following equation; (Gravity equivalent power in watts) x (Coasting time in seconds for 1,000' elevation change) = 1360 x (Total  weight in pounds)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;170lb. bike &amp;amp; rider  vs  340lb. bike &amp;amp; rider&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The heavy rider coasting at equivalent 462w no&#xA;Pedal input) = (light rider gravity 231w + 231w pedal input to keep up) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;231w pedal input (like superman/woman)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6315" LastEditorUserId="721" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T16:29:24.060" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T16:29:24.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14125" CreationDate="2013-03-07T16:18:17.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you don't have any loose shoelaces, if they get caught in the chain it could be very nasty. So just tuck them nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T16:18:17.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14226" CreationDate="2013-03-07T22:49:03.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Colnago fixie which I love - it's just sheer fun. However, for commuting to work, I built myself a simple single speed a while ago. Here is why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A fixie can't be ridden properly without toe clips and straps (or click pedals). Sometimes I have to wear at least proper leather shoes for work (and sometimes a suit), which really don't go well with toe clips as a) they don't really fit into the clips and b) the shoes will get scratched badly. Maybe this sounds stupid, but a fixie is simply impractical in this aspect. Of course I could wear sneakers for riding and then change shoes at work, but I just can't be bothered.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I found the fixie to be somewhat uncomfortable for day-to-day city riding after a while, mainly because I can't (and wouldn't want to) fit any tires wider than 700c/25, but there are a lot of tram tracks to cross where I live plus quite a lot of pot holes plus part of my (old) way to work wasn't paved but gravel, which really sucks with slim tires. Also, it doesn't have a rear brake. In dense traffic or when a lot of stopping is required, this can be quite cumbersome after a while. But these are of course things you could pay attention to should you decide to get yourself a fixie. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;Alex&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS.: And I definitely wouldn't buy any clumsy geared city bike. A single speed is just so much easier to maintain, plus it's so much more fun, and it's damn silent ;-) And let's be honest - who the hell needs more than one gear in a flat terrain? Just pedal, dammit ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6319" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T22:49:03.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1596" CreationDate="2013-03-08T02:35:09.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the MTA, bikes can go on trains, only folding bikes can go on buses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mta.info/bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mta.info/bike/&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NYC Transit Subway&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bicycles are permitted on Subway trains at all times. However, we strongly recommend that cyclists avoid boarding crowded rush hour trains. Be courteous to your fellow passengers by standing with your bike, moving it so others can pass, and not blocking doors. Read all about Subway bike safety and courtesy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NYC Transit Bus and MTA Bus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Folding bicycles are permitted aboard local and limited buses at all times. Please fold your bike before boarding and don’t block the aisle or doors. Folding bikes are not allowed on express buses. All other bicycles are prohibited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6321" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T02:35:09.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14700" CreationDate="2013-03-08T03:21:58.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with the GSC10 (though with an Edge 305 not a 500) has been that the batteries last 6 to 12 months, or roughly 2500 to 5000 miles of riding.  That works out to something like 125 to 250 hours of operation.  That is considerably less than what is stated in the manual, but in the ballpark of what the other two answerers experienced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptom you described (losing connection with the Edge 500) is consistent with a dieing battery.  However, another cause could be poor alignment between the magnets and the sensor.  I've found that the cadence magnet, in particular, will not be sensed if it shifts by a centimeter, or so.  Since the Edge 500 can compute speed from GPS data, it's sometimes difficult to tell whether the GSC10 is really not sending data or simply not sensing the cadence magnet.  Make sure the cadence magnet is aligned with the embossed groove on the side of the GSC facing your crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T03:21:58.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14722" CreationDate="2013-03-08T09:58:44.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends largely on conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to wear Bollé glasses and treated myself to a pair last summer. They do lots of variations so before purchasing the glasses I did a bit of research. They published a really useful paper &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.s382408628.onlinehome.fr/bolle/media/pdf/lens_references_ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;outlining the appropriateness of different colour lenses under different light conditions&lt;/a&gt;, Very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of other things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;since different lenses are appropriate for different conditions, you might want to look at glasses which support changing lenses. I got a spare pair of lenses for the Bollé glasses I got, but they were difficult to get hold of and relatively expensive too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;having said all this, apart from the few months of summer we seem to get these days, my glasses of choice are actually clear, high-contrast safety glasses. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bolle-Axis-AXCONT-Safety-Glasses-Contrast-/181048410128?pt=UK_BOI_ProtectiveGear_RL&amp;amp;hash=item2a27538010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these Bollé Axis glasses on eBay&lt;/a&gt;. Personally I think these are every bit as good as cycling-specific glasses in terms of quality, but come in at a fraction of the price. The &quot;contrast&quot; aspect is good for poor light conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this seems like an ad for a particular manufacturer, they just happen to be my favourite - but I'm sure that the pdf link would apply just as well to other makes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T09:58:44.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14226" CreationDate="2013-03-08T19:47:59.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to consider a mini velo as well I faced the same dilemma in the end I got a Raleigh MV7 &#xA;Has a fixed front cog which makes for a good compromise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6325" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T19:47:59.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-08T22:09:39.260" Score="7" ViewCount="82386" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can a cyclist, new to commuting by bike and not all that experienced in riding, estimate how long a commute will take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been riding for 4 days to and from work. 156km over over 4 days. I'd like to know what I &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be averaging time wise. I am 203 lbs / 92kg, and somewhat fit. The ride is 13 miles/ 21km there and back with an elevation of 81 meters and I'm using a good standard bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any general guidelines to use to get an estimate? What factors will affect this? (Fitness, traffic, etc.) How can I identify ways to get faster? (Routing, accounting for other delays, etc.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6326" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-03-09T19:03:43.760" LastActivityDate="2017-05-25T23:21:23.007" Title="How do I estimate how long it will take me to ride my commute?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14767" CreationDate="2013-03-08T22:14:06.887" Score="9" ViewCount="5836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a car and think about biking to ski resorts. So the question is how to carry my XC skis on a bike. Have anyone tried doing this and what was the solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6327" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T10:09:28.860" Title="How to carry skis on a bike?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2013-03-08T23:17:08.960" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen people trailer them, but for a local race here, many people go car free and strap them to the top tube extending back behind the seat, usually onto the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found many images using google image search for &quot;carry skis on bike&quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5471607772_40dc377ed0_o.jpg&quot;&gt;http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5471607772_40dc377ed0_o.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T23:17:08.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2013-03-09T00:57:46.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When ski touring we often carry skis on our backpacks - tied together at top and one each in loops each side. Very stable except in high winds.  No reason this would not work riding a bike. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sterling-adventures.co.uk/blog/pictures/ski-touring-big.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a pic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T00:57:46.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2013-03-09T01:25:50.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.burley.com/home/bur/page_416/travoy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Burley Travoy&lt;/a&gt; trailer is an interesting design and is a good deal more compact than a traditional trailer.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W6rin.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Burley Travoy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trailer folds down to keep it convenient while still being able to carry a good deal of stuff. The benefit of a trailer mounted at an angle rather than parallel with the ground is that you wouldn't need to drag along the length of your skis - it'd only trail by a few feet. In mounting skis you would have to angle them upwards so as to avoid whacking yourself in the head, but with the right arrangement of luggage I don't see that as being a problem. This might be the ideal option if you were to carry more than one pair of skis in addition to your standard gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I am quite fond of my Burley Flatbed trailer and can attest to Burley's design, but have never used the Travoy (it generally gets pretty good reviews, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T01:25:50.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14765" CreationDate="2013-03-09T01:27:06.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All I can say is how long it takes me. I ride the same distance as you - 11 km each way. It takes me about 30 minutes each way after a month or so of riding. When I start riding in the spring it will take about 40 minutes. I have less of an elevation change though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T01:27:06.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2013-03-09T05:14:01.297" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use bungees to secure them to the rear rack and let them stick out behind me.  As their weight is minimal, the bike's handling should change very little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6169" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T05:14:01.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-09T14:02:39.527" Score="6" ViewCount="22358" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience of the Cannondale Headshok suspension system, where the shock is in the head tube / above the fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they reliable? I'm looking at a Cannondale Bad Boy 2 (2013) and am concerned that if something goes wrong it could be hard to rectify.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6334" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T22:18:35.413" Title="Experiences of the Cannondale Headshok system?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-09T17:04:28.963" Score="1" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can a cyclist, new to commuting by bike and not all that experienced in riding, estimate how long a commute will take? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers will of course vary, and actually riding the commute will tell the tale. But are there any general guidelines to use to get an estimate? What factors will affect this? (Fitness, traffic, etc.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T17:27:08.597" Title="How can one estimate the length of a commute?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-03-09T19:10:35.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14776" CreationDate="2013-03-09T17:27:08.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there is single answer to this question. In my experience, every route is unique, and will have variables that increase or decrease the transit time for a particular commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traffic, seasonal weather, time of day for the commute, rider's fitness, and bicycle condition will all play a role in determining the time for a given route.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are regular cyclist, and have an idea what your average speed is on a fitness ride, using that as a basis to gauge how long a route will take is a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I ride a route for the first time, I gauge the time by average speed, and then if there is a deadline for me to be at the destination (i.e. I have to be there and ready for work at 9 a.m.) I take my fitness time, and double it.  That ensures that I have enough time to arrive, even with problems I don't foresee.  Then I add 15-20 minutes, to allow myself time to clean up and be presentable for work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is to ride the route.  If you are especially cautious, then informing your coworkers/employer that you are trying a new route to work and might be late, if you have unforeseen issues, is not a bad idea. Doing a test ride when you don't have a critical deadline, meeting, or even doing it the first time on your day off, is even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will get used to traffic patterns, weather issues, and normal delays.  Even once you are certain of the normal time a route will take, it is a good idea to allow a bit of leeway for a flat tire, or an unforeseen circumstance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the answer you want is something along the line of x kilometers or miles will take y minutes, but that is not possible to gauge for you.  What we can offer, is ways to learn the time for your route, without causing damage to your life or your job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that is helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T17:27:08.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14765" CreationDate="2013-03-09T17:27:53.263" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there is no single answer to this question. In my experience, every route is unique, and will have variables that increase or decrease the transit time for a particular commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traffic, seasonal weather, time of day for the commute, rider's fitness, and your bicycle's condition will all play a role in determining the time for a given route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are regular cyclist, and have an idea what your average speed is on a fitness ride, using that as a basis to gauge how long a route will take is a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I ride a route for the first time, I gauge the time by average speed, and then if there is a deadline for me to be at the destination (i.e. I have to be there and ready for work at 9 a.m.) I take my fitness time, and double it. That ensures that I have enough time to arrive, even with problems I don't foresee. Then I add 15-20 minutes, to allow myself time to clean up and be presentable for work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is to ride the route. If you are especially cautious, then informing your coworkers/employer that you are trying a new route to work and might be late, if you have unforeseen issues, is not a bad idea. Doing a test ride when you don't have a critical deadline, meeting, or even doing it the first time on your day off, is even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will get used to traffic patterns, weather issues, and normal delays. Even once you are certain of the normal time a route will take, it is a good idea to allow a bit of leeway for a flat tire, or an unforeseen circumstance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the answer you want is something along the line of x kilometers or miles will take y minutes, but that is not possible to gauge for you. What we can offer, is ways to learn the time for your route, without causing damage to your life or your job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-03-09T19:05:16.270" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T19:05:16.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14775" CreationDate="2013-03-09T19:47:18.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only know this system from older times, perhaps current (2013) systems have different qualities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It uses a wider head tube, because the shock is placed in the steering tube of the fork. Usually, you can install adapters to the frame, so that you can use a normal suspension fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference is that, instead of using telescopic stanchions, it has a squared tube with needle bearings. When new, this system has virtually no static friction, so it will be VERY responsive to minor and/or high-frequency road irregularities, such as cobblestones, rough gravel, and rooty trail sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something goes wrong it's usually the needle bearings themselves, which develop progressive &quot;play&quot;, thus needing service/replacement, which in turn can become &quot;complicated&quot; since only Cannondale can service them or provide replacement parts, as far as I know. I have seen some problematic Fatty forks in the past, but I have also seen A LOT of people happily using Fatty and Lefty (which uses the same principle) without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T19:47:18.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14781" CreationDate="2013-03-09T21:53:01.923" Score="9" ViewCount="16584" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a wheelset that I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; like, only problem is the first time I rode the wheels a nipple came off the spoke when I launched off a speed bump going downhill.  For a long time it was silent (the nipple must have been stuck in some stan's or something) but recently its come loose and rattles all over the place when braking.  I am pretty sure this is going to drive me crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for strategies that people have found successful for getting a nipple out in this situation.  I figure if worst comes to worst I can take the tire off, remove the valve core and put a dab of rubber cement in the rim that will hopefully catch the nipple.  But I'd like to fish it out if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T19:46:50.723" Title="Retrieving Loose Nipple from Inside Rim" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;nipples&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14780" CreationDate="2013-03-09T23:18:30.713" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take the rim tape off you should be able to shake it out through one of the holes that you insert the nipples through. I've dropped a few inside rims and never had a problem getting them out this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T23:18:30.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8891" CreationDate="2013-03-10T00:22:23.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to mountain biking. However, I have been riding using my Avid Elixir 3's since August last year and have only had to change the pads this week having done 25-40 miles every week. So I think in such short time you have not done so well with your pads. I hope I helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6338" LastEditorUserId="5096" LastEditDate="2019-08-21T07:31:54.160" LastActivityDate="2019-08-21T07:31:54.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14842" CreationDate="2013-03-10T04:33:48.623" Score="10" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 3:30ish in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/video/2013/mar/07/the-art-of-repair-bike-fix-video&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, they set light to a front derailleur. Why? Degreasing it? Waxy lube that needs melting in? I can't think of a good reason. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T14:07:33.047" Title="Setting light to a derailleur" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14765" CreationDate="2013-03-10T11:42:20.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One could possibly look up the route on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt;. They break things up into segments so it might take some work to figure out your whole route. Also remember that most people on Strava are trying for best times and not commuting. However it still might offer a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T11:42:20.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-10T14:14:48.930" Score="13" ViewCount="76504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 27 x 1 1/4 inch tires on my bike and need to buy new tubes. Can I use 700c or just 27 inch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6340" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T23:45:17.340" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T09:49:30.317" Title="I have 27 inch wheels and need new inner tubes what size can I use" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;27-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14793" CreationDate="2013-03-10T14:42:37.403" Score="1" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed my shifters and need to change my front derailleur cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't know how to proceed exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A guide I found told me to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on big sprocket, small plate (is that the english word?? ;p), adjust the LOW screw so that the left side of the derailleur is 0-0.5mm away from the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attach the cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on large plate small sprocket, adjust the HIGH screw to have the right side of the derailleur 0-0.5mm away from the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjust the barrel to get proper shifting for the middle ring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is that guide correct according to you?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On step 2: in which position should the shifter be when attaching the cable? I would think on the largest ring position but I don't really know...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have any barrel on my front derailleur casing, but the shifter has 2 close positions for the middle ring (I guess this is what they call the trimming thing), does this compensate the lack of barrel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T18:35:23.293" Title="Front derailleur cable change" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14791" CreationDate="2013-03-10T15:22:55.200" Score="2" ViewCount="1282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about changing my 2nd chanring to a smaller one (2 chanring setup). I hear most people recommend to change the chain when changing the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence my question: should I expect to change other parts (chain? other chainring? cassette?) if I change my 2nd chainring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2375" LastActivityDate="2021-03-21T18:14:58.547" Title="Does new chainring require change of other parts?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14787" CreationDate="2013-03-10T15:42:00.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how worn out your old chainring and the other involved components (chain, cassette) are. If the chain and cassette are not that old that they would need to be replaced anyway, I would take the risk and change only the chainring first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there could be another thing that maybe needs to be changed: if you use a smaller chainring it may happen, that the chain will rub against the lower end of the dereilleur cache. Therefore it may be necessary to move the dereilleur a bit downwards on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T15:42:00.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14785" CreationDate="2013-03-10T17:31:08.213" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The size of the tube is usually written on the box.  Tubes stretch a bit so they fit a variety of sizes.  For a 27 x 1 1/4 tire you would need one that says 700x32 which is the equivalent new size of tube, although both the old system and new system are usually written on the packaging. This size is very common and you should be able to purchase the tube at any cycling store, or sports store that sells bikes.  If you don't have any in your area, you should also  be able to purchase tubes at any department store that sells bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure that you get the right valve type.  Schrader is the same valve that is used on cars, while Presta is the only found on bikes.  An older 27 inch wheel will almost certainly use a Schrader valve.  You should be able to see the difference quite easily.  Also, there are different lengths of valves, although those are usually only found on Presta Valves.  This can be a concern if you have deep rims.  I try not to use valves that are too long for my rims because its sometimes difficult to attach the pump in these circumstances.  Although having too short of a valves can make it impossible to attach a pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of a box showing the sizes of tires that the tube is designed for.  This tube will fit tires from size 700x25 to 700x32, or in the case where you have older wheels like yourself, will fit 27 x 1.00 to 27 x 1 1/4.  It has a presta Valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/87rEL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tube Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T17:53:51.183" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T17:53:51.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14785" CreationDate="2013-03-10T18:10:29.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, a standard 700C tube will fit a 27&quot; tire (and most tube boxes bear multiple markings to indicate this).  Just convert the inch width to mm to get the width of the 700C tube, if the box doesn't say the inch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires, of course, are a different matter -- there is enough difference in rim diameters between 27&quot; and 700C tires (which don't stretch like tubes) that one will not fit the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T18:10:29.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14787" CreationDate="2013-03-10T18:18:44.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be wise to check the chain wear with a chain &quot;stretch&quot; gauge and replace it if the chain is beyond 0.75 or 0.8.  Re the rear sprockets, they're only likely to be a problem if the current chain is worn beyond 1.0 stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to worry about is whether the derailers can simply handle the difference.  The rear derailer has a &quot;tooth range&quot; in terms of the greatest difference between the sum of tooth counts of the largest sprocket pair and the smallest, and if that range is exceeded then the chain will either go slack on the smallest combo or become over-stretched on the largest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, the front derailer has a limit to how great a tooth difference it can handle, and too much difference could result in the chain rubbing the derailer or iffy shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But these problems are only likely if the difference in old and new ring diameters is substantial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T18:18:44.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9226" CreationDate="2013-03-10T18:25:06.610" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I SPIN 8-12 hours a week in winter- )Pacific Northwet). I make sure I do one or two 2 hour sessions a week. It has been very effective for years. One key is to have imperial information: &#xA;watts and heart rate to make sure you are getting benefit. Some call for watts = your weight is good target. I add the weight of my bike to that as well. I also did a test for threshold watts that provides me with targets during training. I do not have it on my bike just trainer and spin bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6342" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T18:25:06.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14786" CreationDate="2013-03-10T18:35:23.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sequence is more or less correct, though different mechanics will likely do it differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, if you haven't changed derailers (or adjusted the the one you have) then the low and high limits should be about correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front shifter has a spring that pulls the derailer cage in the direction of the small sprocket, so without the cable in place it will move that direction.  Adjust the LOW limit to center the derailer cage over the low sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to adjust the HIGH limit you need to have something (ie, the cable) pull the cage in that direction, so attach the cable.  To get the cable about right, though, put the shifter on the lowest gear setting, screw in any barrel adjuster, and then stretch the cable tight and clamp (but do not cut the cable short yet).  Then use the shifter to move the derailer to the high end and adjust the HIGH limit to center the cage over the large ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got high and low set, and the cable attached, you adjust the barrel adjuster to center the cage over the middle ring when that's selected with the shifter.  Then repeat the whole process to fine-tune it.  And expect to need to tighten the barrel adjuster again in a few days as the cable stretches out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm skeptical that your setup lacks (and is intended to lack) barrel adjusters.  They may have been incorporated in the old shifters and the new ones lack them, in which case you'd need to buy inline adjusters.  Or the adjusters may be there but &quot;hiding&quot; -- on the derailer body, in one of the frame fittings for the cable, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T18:35:23.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14800" CreationDate="2013-03-11T06:14:59.683" Score="1" ViewCount="1883" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just switched from flat to drop bars which are narrower that the original flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to compensate the &quot;depth&quot; of the riding position, I took a shorter stem (60mm instead of 105mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of these changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The riding hands position is different (which was the purpose, but I am not used to it yet): the hands are &quot;vertical&quot; when riding on the &quot;safe&quot; positions (on hoods and on drops) and are when in the &quot;unsafe&quot; position (around stem), they are very close to the stem which is unusual for me as well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bars are narrower, so in any position, the hands are close to the center of the bars which feel very different&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shorter stem also affect the feel of the direction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, in my tests, I did not have any problem &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt;, but my starts have showed to be a little &quot;wobbly&quot; (not riding completely straight on the 1 meter or 2) and on a general level I don't feel as safe as I used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure a big part of that needs just getting used to, but still, any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T13:54:12.170" Title="Getting used to narrower handlebars" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4249" CreationDate="2013-03-11T07:15:54.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part named F is a type of indented washer that sits against the bearings in quando hubs. If you have problems with your back wheel, ie grinding, annoying sounds, I find removing this washer alltogether helpful. It seems to stop any friction noise. When you tighten the cines the rubber seal seats against this washer pushing it against the bearings.  These hubs are usually poorly put together when new, but can be tuned to give good service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definately remove the unidentified washer for future noise free riding. Also in addition to this, while you have the spindle stripped down check it for straightness. My rear spindle was untrue and caused a rebuild every other ride; I should have checked this first. So I replaced both front and back with decent axles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6343" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T11:02:47.030" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T11:02:47.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14794" CreationDate="2013-03-11T08:07:15.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A big part of your problem is purely what you are used to and comfortable with, however wide, flat handle bars are used on comfort bikes and mountain bikes as they tend to offer more stability (at least, more perception of stability) than drops. I never feel as stable on my roadie on drops as I do on my MTB with relatively wide flats - although on the roadie I never screamed down bumpy technical single track at insane speed, so do not consider the relative instability of drops. However, hard to know if this is purely down to the bars, or the different the riding position, bike geometry etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T08:07:15.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14794" CreationDate="2013-03-11T09:10:03.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conventional wisdom says that your hands ought to be the same width apart as you shoulder bones, although personal preference should trump this. I've also read that, strangely, stem length can affect whether bars feel too narrow or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a shame that for most of us it's not economical/convenient to get various combinations and try them out for comfort. You can try different sizes in a shop, but other aspects of the bike may also change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a reference point, there's some discussion of handlebar size and how to measure your shoulders, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/12/28/tech-how-to-choose-the-correct-road-bike-handlebar-size-shape/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mz2xV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're way off the recommendation, though, you should spend some time trying to get used to the new set up as you suggest. I'm sure you'll get more control as time goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T09:10:03.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14794" CreationDate="2013-03-11T10:54:12.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with last answer - some of it is just getting used to the narrower hand position.  You could always set off with your hands dropped down, so wider and more stable for those wobbly 2-3 initial metres.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i have tri bars on my bike - I have to remember to move my hands back to main handle bars, and never to turn to look behind me when I using tri bars, as very unstable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6344" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T10:54:12.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14775" CreationDate="2013-03-11T13:01:07.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the headset on the headshock system is propriatary and can't be used with existing 1 1/2in forks, but uses the same oversized headtube, so you can swap the headset with a standard 1 1/2in or use a reducer for 1 1/2in to 1 1/8in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, If you can't service the fork, You should be able to swap out the fork if you get a reducer headset (1 1/2in to 1 1/8in), a new stem, and a new 1 1/8in fork. Headshock is pretty low travel, so you'll probably want a fork with low travel, an adjustable travel fork, or a suspension corrected rigid fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon has a page with some info on the system and links to manuals:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cannondale-headshok.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cannondale-headshok.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could possibly rebuild it, parts are out there. Honestly, unless you were getting a smoking hot deal, I'd avoid proprietary crap like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T13:01:07.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14794" CreationDate="2013-03-11T13:54:12.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think one possible issue is that you changed your stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop bars are &quot;supposed&quot; to put you in a more aerodynamic position. From what I have seen, most drop bars go WAY front relative to the rest of the bike. That way, you have two forwarded positions (the safe ones), and one &quot;resting&quot;, taller position that you sould use only when actually 'giving a break' to your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a longer stem adds more stability to the ride, because the weight of your torso, and the direction it is applied over the bars, tend to &quot;self-center&quot; the steering, thus reducing the perceived wobbliness of a narrower handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have assembled a flat-bar road bike recently, with a quite narrow (55cm) bar, and &quot;by the numbers&quot;, I should use a 90mm stem. It was terribly wobbly, and everything felt much better after I switched to a 120mm stem: the added &quot;frontal leverage&quot; provided by my body weight over the more forwarded stem made the bike much more stable going over and around obstacles on the road. With a minor saddle foreaft adjustment, the bike became even more comfortable, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, try to research (oldschool bike shop owners might be of some help) what's the philosophy of drop-bars positioning, because I am sure you are supposed to use each one of them preferrably in some specific moments of the ride (which I don't know by the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T13:54:12.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14803" CreationDate="2013-03-11T19:18:59.080" Score="5" ViewCount="5983" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a new chain on my bike and after 3 rides or so, I developed a stiff link. I'm not sure what caused the issue, but now it barely bends at the pin at all, unless forced.  It causes skipping problems when it goes through the derailleur.  I've tried scrubbing it and applying lube to the link that is stuck, but that hasn't had any effect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 10 speed chain, so I'm wary about trying to just remove the link, since these chains are not as easy to reconnect and I need to keep the chain long to work well with the wide range 3x10 MTB drivetrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to fix this stuck link? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T03:31:12.043" Title="What to do about a stuck chain link on 10 speed chain" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14722" CreationDate="2013-03-11T19:28:04.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are reasons that many sunglasses come with multiple lenses. I use darker color when riding in bright sunlight, less dark when it is cloudy and clear when it is dark and/or raining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then again, I have seen pretty much all colors out there. The biggest reason that we wear sunglasses isn't for shade but to protect our eyes from crap flying into our faces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4498" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T19:28:04.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14801" CreationDate="2013-03-12T01:43:37.303" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right solution is to use the &quot;tight link removal&quot; position of most chain tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yDnaq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just choose the side where the pin is showing most outwards, and pull it in a tiny bit. This is very subtle, and your link will be released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternate solution is to grab the chain with both hands (dirty!) and force it as if you were to bend it sideways, in both directions. This always works and is very quick, but is not very elegant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T01:43:37.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14805" CreationDate="2013-03-12T14:49:55.300" Score="8" ViewCount="6282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering a Rohloff hub and am wondering what the day-to-day riding experience would be like compared to my existing derailleur setup. There are some obvious things (e.g. don't have to be moving to shift), but what I'm most interested is the less obvious things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, can someone give a more or less complete enumeration of how riding a Rohloff hub is similar and different than derailleur(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in the boonies and so it might be difficult try one out before purchase. Understanding what may be different will help me prioritize this try-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T12:57:32.467" Title="How is the riding experience of a Rohloff hub different than derailleur gears?" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14804" CreationDate="2013-03-12T16:09:30.980" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only compare the basic Shimano Acera and Deore (3x8) deraileurs to the Rohloff 14-speed hub, but these are my observations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On the Rohloff hub&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rohloff, like most hub gears is slightly less efficient than a &lt;strong&gt;well-maintained&lt;/strong&gt; derailleur, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp52-2001.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this PDF study&lt;/a&gt; explains. In my experience the difference is not noticeable, perhaps because I've mostly used cheap derailleurs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing gears is always impossible if significant force is on the drivechain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A short pedalling pause is required to shift gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible to change to/from any gear when stationary or coasting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gear inches change between gears is simple and predictable (roughly the same percentage per click).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gap between the gears is fairly large.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some gears are noisy (eg 7th)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are a couple of gears which need a bit of care shifting or you end up temporarily in top gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On a derailer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most gears run quickly and efficiently. Several gears are noisy/inefficient due to chain angle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing gears is sometimes tricky if there a large force on the drive chain. It depends on which change is being made, some are really easy and smooth, others need some care.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No pause to fast, gentle pedalling is required to shift gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only possible to change gears when pedalling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two shifters means that shifting quickly to a predictable-length gear a skill that requires a bit of thought.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV, but I find the Rohloff to be efficient and simple to use. We use it on a tandem, so it may be that the pause needed when shifting is less distruptive on a solo bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I also expect that an experienced racer would be able to shift their high-spec gears much more quickly and efficiently than any hub gears and that this might mean that derailleurs are the only option for racing. That and the fact that you can't seem to connect them to brifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(reworked from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/13416/5337&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of (mostly positive) opinions from &lt;a href=&quot;http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=675.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rohloff owners here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T12:57:32.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14814" CreationDate="2013-03-12T16:30:17.510" Score="2" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a selle royale laser saddle. Its pretty uncomfortable but not bad for pedalling. I would like to change my city road bike saddle. Does anyone have recommendations, and rules of thumb for choosing saddles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My specific use case is for short and medium trips in the city. For long trips I have a Brooks Champion Flyer. I was using an mtb saddle. A specialized body geometry saddle on my road bike, but I found that its too wide &amp;amp; need a saddle designed for the road bike. Its a vintage road bike so the saddle position and pedalling style compared to newer road bikes might be different (its a 1950s H.R. Bates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T20:37:49.460" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T21:30:36.380" Title="Uncomfortable road saddle, how to choose a saddle for my riding?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14806" CreationDate="2013-03-12T16:46:36.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rules of thumb seem to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Softer saddles for shorter rides, harder ones for longer rides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Width to match your sit bones plus about 2cm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A large portion of personal preference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some more detailed analysis &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/ask-the-engineers/the-four-and-a-half-rules-of-road-saddles-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T16:56:43.937" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T16:56:43.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14775" CreationDate="2013-03-12T17:38:39.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experience of them, yes. They are great, when they work. Other than the Lefty, they are probably one of the better short travel cross country mountain bike forks if by best, you mean stiffest &amp;amp; lightest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you are considering a 'BadBoy' which is usually used on-road. In this case, a fork, headshok or not, is at best a bit of a waste of time, and at worst, a costly mistake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dirty secret of suspension forks, Headshok, or otherwise, is that they need regular and quite specialised maintenance, and if you don't treat them right, they suffer, and eventually die, and it's expensive to repair / replace them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they any less reliable than 'normal' forks? No. Do they suffer from the same problems if left unmaintained? Yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride on road mostly, and want comfort, go for bigger tyres and a rigid fork for simplicity &amp;amp; reliability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user6353" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T17:38:39.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-12T17:43:22.397" Score="5" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started using the SPD system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having ridden without for years, it's proving to be a challenge and sometimes uncomfortable.&#xA;A challenge, because the stop/start through traffic is a hassle clicking in and out.&#xA;Uncomfortable, because my left shoe seems to be angled strangely.&#xA;Will I get used to the system?&#xA;Many thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6354" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T20:38:16.900" LastActivityDate="2020-09-11T04:04:43.177" Title="Uncomfortable SPD pedals" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14809" CreationDate="2013-03-12T18:01:43.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you just need to refine your setup. I would check the placement of the cleat on your left shoe. It may be out of alignment. Sometimes the plates that the cleats screw in move and aren't lined up straight when you tighten them down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as clicking in and out. If you keep with it you'll get better at it. I struggle for a while when I started out, but now I am really fast. You'll learn what it feels like when your cleat is in the right spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1552" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T18:01:43.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9602" CreationDate="2013-03-12T18:05:59.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem, would a longer chain stay be a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a bike is specced with a measurement and actually measures another such as the the chain stay is off by 5mm, would that cause it to shake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6355" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T18:05:59.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14809" CreationDate="2013-03-12T18:32:24.813" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three main settings on your cleat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fore-aft position, which should let you pedal with the metatarsal heads over the pedal axle, more or less;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lateral position, which should let a few free milimeters between the inner part of the shoe sole and the crank arm;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The most important for you, which is the ANGLE between the longitudinal line of the cleat and the longitudinal line of the shoe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the third setting, you have to consider that SPD allows for some lateral play of the foot over the pedal. The position you pedal naturally MUST be the &quot;midway&quot; between each lateral-limiting position. Mind that human feet are not naturally parallel, the heel is a bit inwards and longitudinal lines of both feet describe an angle, which varies from person to person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedalling with your cleat &quot;locked&quot; against some of the limiting positions induces a terrible stress on the knee and the ankle. You should take a tool with you for a setup ride (usually 4mm allen), and keep setting up as many times you need until you feel comfortable. Olny tighten it fully after having found the right position, since the cleat bites the shoe sole permanently then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for unease to clip and unclip, you'll get used to it, but you should start using the lowest spring preload that is enough to keep you cliped even when pulling the pedal up with the shoe. A minimal amount of oil on working surfaces might ease things in the beginning, but SPD pedals don't typically require constant lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2013-03-13T14:36:59.683" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T14:36:59.683" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14809" CreationDate="2013-03-12T21:18:07.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend going to your local bike shop for some help adjusting your cleats to make you more comfortable.  Many good shops have professional bike fitters who can really help you dial the position of your cleats.  Proper cleat position will not only help you ride more efficiently and comfortably, but also more safely.  A cleat fitting is generally quite a bit less expensive than a complete bike fitting, but I highly recommend both even for casual riders.  After all, if you have a big deductible on your insurance, then a good pro-fit session will pay for itself if it saves you just one visit to the doctor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6296" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T21:18:07.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14806" CreationDate="2013-03-12T21:30:36.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ahhh... the art and science of choosing a saddle.  There are a couple of rules of thumb to start out with.  Narrower saddles generally lend themselves to more forward-leaning agressive riding styles, while wider cushier &quot;tractor seats&quot; are better for upright riding (e.g. Electra Townies).  Harder saddles are okay if you'll be wearing cycling shorts or bibs which provide their own padding, but you'll want a little cushion if you're riding in jeans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best advice I have is to try a bunch.  Because saddles are such a personal preference item, there are a lot of them on craigslist and ebay for fairly reasonable prices.  Buy and try, and if it doesn't work out, sell it and buy another.  After all, a slightly used saddle from craigslist isn't going to lose a whole lot more value during the 20-40 miles it will take to decide if you love it or hate it.  You'll probably be able to sell it for what you paid (you might even come out ahead if you get lucky on ebay).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6296" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T21:30:36.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9078" CreationDate="2013-03-13T00:29:03.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering my own question!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After extensive fiddling with my position, I've discovered that the power loss occurs when my seat is too far forward, and/or too low.  This was the opposite of what I had expected.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can now get the bar as low as it goes -- about 8 cm drop on my bikes -- with no noticeable power loss ... and it's actually MORE comfortable!  (In my old higher &amp;amp; shorter reach combo, I now feel too scrunched up!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seat has to be pretty far rearward -- about 10 cm tip behind BB -- but this puts me at KOP.  (I had been using the &quot;hands-off&quot; test, but that put me at least 5 mm too far forward, thus the power loss.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6017" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T22:40:28.717" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T22:40:28.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-13T00:35:24.337" Score="0" ViewCount="2302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have more problems with those stupid things getting stripped than you would believe.  (Just ruined a shoe trying to get a stripped bolt out.)  Anyone know if I can buy just the bolts, rather than the whole cleat?  That way I can put a new one in every time I have to adjust it or it comes loose to, hopefully prevent that from happening.  (I mean the MTB recessed ones)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6017" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T13:24:29.710" Title="Anyplace sell bolts for SPD cleats?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14820" CreationDate="2013-03-13T01:35:29.433" Score="5" ViewCount="11701" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year, I installed carbon bars on one of my mountain bikes and I'm finding them too wide. I've been told that taping over the points you're going to cut at will prevent fraying/roughness, but what type of hacksaw blade should you use? Any other tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="1036" LastEditDate="2013-03-13T02:17:32.047" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T06:56:00.500" Title="How to cut carbon handlebars" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14817" CreationDate="2013-03-13T01:42:30.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually ask my LBS when I need spare parts like that. You might have to pay them a buck or two, but a lot of places keep a small stash of parts like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, they might be able to order the part directly from Shimano (or ask your friends).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T01:42:30.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14818" CreationDate="2013-03-13T02:13:37.000" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the shop we generally use a &quot;normal&quot; hacksaw blade. I'd go with finer blade (more teeth per inch) if there's an option. Go slow and smooth (long low pressure strokes) and keep the blade perpendicular to the bars. The tape will probably help but do take care removing the tape or you might cause the fray you're trying to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are special carbon cutting blades. We tried these and switched back to hacksaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T02:13:37.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-13T04:17:27.083" Score="53" ViewCount="6573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently testing a bunch of lights for my (slowly) &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/768/which-bicycle-headlights-should-i-review&quot;&gt;upcoming head lights&lt;/a&gt; review. Several of the lights can be mounted to a helmet using a mounting strap, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l106j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;helmet-mounted light&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if having a light mounted on the helmet impacts its effectiveness in protecting from impacts. It seems that if the light hits the ground first, it might cause the rider's head to torque at a weird angle, or rotate the helmet causing the rider to hit their head when they might not otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any research or data on this, or are there any anecdotal accounts of helmet lights affecting helmet safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:19:26.173" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T22:01:12.700" Title="Does a helmet-mounted light affect the safe functionality of the helmet?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="18" FavoriteCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14851" CreationDate="2013-03-13T10:24:50.297" Score="3" ViewCount="2696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a specialized tricross for riding in the city and going on short tours around Europe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I don't have enough space in the corridor of the house so I will have to put it outside in the garden. In the UK we have a lot of precipitation so I want to get a good bike cover. I was wondering if anyone can recommend me a special kind of material or brand for a cover. I know that one of the main issues is condensation so I guess it needs to be a breathable material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the Oxford Aquatex any good, does anyone have experience with this model or with the brand in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions welcome! I want to take good care of my baby... :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3298" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T19:11:28.907" Title="storing bike outside - avoiding trapped moisture and rainfall (bike covers)" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;storage&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-13T11:13:17.540" Score="13" ViewCount="97753" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hope everyone is well. I need to clean and oil my chain as its getting a little clunky when I’m changing gears. I have no idea what I should be cleaning it with and then what I should oil with. Any help would be great. It’s a road bike that is used every day no matter the weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6314" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-03-13T12:29:57.290" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T18:04:27.603" Title="What cleaner and oil should I use on my bike chain" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="5" ClosedDate="2017-04-17T13:06:39.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14871" CreationDate="2013-03-13T11:28:49.723" Score="3" ViewCount="7299" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is very similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7610/can-you-run-a-standard-tyre-on-a-tubeless-rim&quot;&gt;Can I use a standard tyre on a tubeless rim?&lt;/a&gt; but while the answers there set out that it's possible I'd like to understand the risks of doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently saw a deal for Fulcrum Red Metal 3 factory wheels that was too good to pass on. Unfortunately only a couple of weeks ago I stuck a new pair of Maxxis Igniter wire beads on my bike. The tyres are cheap but I like them and wouldn't mind keeping them. Is there any risk of damaging the new rims if I run the wire bead tires with tubes in them? Also is there any risk of damaging me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a big &lt;strong&gt;Only Use UST Compatible Tires&lt;/strong&gt; sticker on them so thought prudent to ask. Not worried about any liability issues New Zealand has a national no fault accident insurance scheme which covers personal injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T16:55:02.867" Title="Can I damage a tubeless rim using a wire bead tire on it?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14823" CreationDate="2013-03-13T11:36:09.950" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the casual rider the simplest approach is to go to a bike shop and get a bottle of &quot;chain oil&quot;.  Apply the chain oil fairly liberally (drizzle it on while cranking the chain backwards, if the bike has a freewheel), then wipe the chain with a rag (while cranking backwards).  If the chain is REALLY dirty, repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For slightly more aggressive cleaning (on a derailleur bike), get a &quot;chain washer&quot; and the associated solvent.  Fill the washer and clamp it on, crank backwards for 30-60 seconds.  Wipe with a rag.  Apply chain oil.  Wipe.  If you're riding daily this is probably what you should use, every week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are the obsessive types who still remove their chains and boil them in kerosene or whatnot to clean then, but that's kind of silly (and dangerous), since chain washers have become available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that chain oil comes in &quot;wet&quot; and &quot;dry&quot; varieties.  &quot;Wet&quot; is for wet weather, and helps prevent corrosion in the wet, while &quot;dry&quot; is for dry weather and doesn't pick up dust nearly as fast as &quot;wet&quot; (and hence keeps the chain cleaner).  And there are &quot;do-all&quot; and &quot;in-between&quot; varieties.  Just pick what seems to fit your riding conditions best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that, even if properly lubricated, chains wear out.  You should get a &quot;chain stretch gauge&quot; to measure the wear of your chain, and replace it when worn to about 0.8.  Running a worn chain damages the sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T11:36:09.950" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14823" CreationDate="2013-03-13T14:48:53.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some tinkering with dedicated bike products, my cleaning/lubing routine settled with very straightforward and cheap strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When needed (usually chain too black/stainy or too dry/squeaking) I take it off the bike, put it inside a plastic bottle, and shake violently with about 100ml kerosene, repeating as needed until the kerosene comes out reasonably clean. I let the kerosene rest so that dirt goes down, you can use a bottle of kerosene like forever this way;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the first more-or-less clean doses of kerosene coming from the chain bottle, I clean the gears, front and rear;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The last rinsing is with new, pure kerosene, so that residual dirt comes off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I then reassemble everything and go out for a ride. As soon as the chain gets noisy enough, I stop and apply the oil, which I always have along.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the oil, I use something that is very similar to Finish-Line &quot;Wet&quot; oil: gearbox oil, which you buy by the liter and also last forever. It is recommended for chain lubing of motorcycles, and the end result when compared with dedicated bike oil is, in my experience, indistinguishable. I apply it &quot;half&quot; drop per link, since I don't let the drop fall, but rather touch the chain roller while the drop is still forming in the oil bottle nozzle. I found out I don't have excess to wipe out if I use this &quot;half drop&quot; measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stress the fact that &quot;I do it like this&quot; instead of &quot;this is the right way to do it&quot; because this is a somewhat religious issue amongst riders. What I can assure you is that I have tried other methods, and kept this one because it is cheap, easy, makes sense, and works (lubrication lasts a lot, chain lasts a lot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T14:48:53.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14722" CreationDate="2013-03-13T15:44:08.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have five sets of lenses for my glasses, and tend to use the dark amber photochromatic lenses the most (dubbed &quot;Red Fototec&quot; by Tifosi).  They filter the most visible light, and are decent if the sky becomes overcast.  I use yellow lenses on heavy overcast days, and clear lenses on night rides.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rarely use &quot;smoked&quot; (grey) lenses, except maybe for driving (photochromatic lenses don't usually work as expected in cars because of the UV filtering by the car windows), but I usually wear another pair of sunglasses when driving anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6363" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T15:44:08.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9226" CreationDate="2013-03-13T15:50:58.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have much experience on the bike, in a long event, be ready for pain in your hands, wrists, shoulders, back, and bottom.  Especially if your bike fit isn't perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride 50-100mi per week (mostly road, some mountain), and my first spin class was really hard for me.  I think the reverse is true as well; a good spinner may find that actual road riding is more dynamic and challenging.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to get as many road rides in as possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6363" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T15:50:58.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14765" CreationDate="2013-03-13T16:03:29.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My average speed on commute rides is usually between 14 and 18mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My average speed on training/exercise rides is usually between 18 and 20mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on the same bike (modern 105-level road bike).  The difference in speed is due to a couple things; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of traffic lights and stop signs on the route.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My intensity/effort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't us Strava, give it a shot.  Create segments on your route, and the app will let you know when you have 'accomplishments' in those segments, like &quot;personal record on segment ABC&quot;, or &quot;3rd best time on segment XYZ&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a competitive rider, but Strava makes it a little more fun, I find myself working harder when I enter a tracked segment.  I'm constantly getting accomplishment notifications because I get faster/stronger the more I ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6363" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T16:03:29.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14824" CreationDate="2013-03-13T16:10:37.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that you can mount wire bead tires with tubes on UST rims so imagine you'd be fine tubeless, as long as you can get the tire to hold air - you might need an extra layer of tape if its a loose fit, and you may also need some Stan's or other sealant to fill in around bead imperfections if you aren't already using it to help w/ punctures.  May be more likely to burp a tire so I'd be a bit less confident dialing the pressure down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have some concern about the wire bead separating from the rubber at higher pressures without a tube but for mountain bike pressures in the 20-40 psi range it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T16:10:37.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14822" CreationDate="2013-03-13T16:21:46.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know, I worry that marketing firms have brainwashed the entire world into believing that you need to spend a lot of money on fancy materials that are waterproof and breathable. Honestly, just spend a few pounds on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0053QUAAG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;poly tarp&lt;/a&gt; and your bike will stay as dry as the day you bought it. Just be sure that you take the bike out to give it some fresh air each day so that you don't have to worry about condensation building up and causing problems. You'd still have to do this anyway even if you bought something expensive, no matter how breathable the salesman promised you it would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T16:21:46.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14722" CreationDate="2013-03-13T16:38:47.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clear glasses with no tint and a good 100% UV and Fog resistant coating that do not block peripheral vision are useful in the almost any conditions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may not be optimal for all, they have the fewest benefits but few faults. They are generally safe and useful in Dawn, Day, Dusk, and Night conditions. Lenses with any Tint may be dangerous at night or at dusk, especially in off-road conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an all season commuter, mountain biker, and occasional road rider, I use clear glasses the most. Typically $10ish safety glasses from UVEX or MSA, but more high-end performance options exist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the answer from mattnz for an excellent rundown of the pro/cons of other tints, but if we are asking what tint most useful in general, I think the answer is none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T16:38:47.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14765" CreationDate="2013-03-13T16:40:49.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that has not been mentioned here is the two ends.  One can easily spend 45 minutes on each end of a 60 minute ride, gathering stuff together before the ride and cleaning up after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to commute regularly it's important to have this stuff &quot;fine-tuned&quot;.  You want to have all your gear ready to go (prepared the night before, if possible) and not have to search around to find everything in the morning (or, worse, ride off without some critical item, like the pants you were going to change into).  And you want to work out a &quot;clean up&quot; routine on arriving at your destination that is effective and efficient.  Eg, if you can't shower, have washcloth and towel and plastic bags to put them into, and always carried in the same pockets of your bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effort spent here can trim more time off the length of your ride than effort spent training for the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T16:40:49.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14809" CreationDate="2013-03-13T18:23:15.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using (or switching back to) flat pedals may also be an option. Then you have the freedom to move your foot about while you are cycling, and this may alleviate the comfort problems you are having. And you will not have to worry about unclipping when stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take it that you are a commuter or recreational rider who have been convinced to try clipless pedals, but if you do not feel that you gain any advantage from them for your type of riding, you should not hesitate to switch back to a pedal interface that you feel more comfortable with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T18:23:15.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14839" CreationDate="2013-03-13T18:54:36.800" Score="11" ViewCount="15235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about getting my bicycle serviced for the first time to make sure it's entirely roadworthy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what should I expect from a bike service from a professional?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. what checks are carried out, what maintenance is done, to what price level will parts be replaced within the service price?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally what price should I be paying for a service? (London UK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I'll further add there might be a minor problem with my back dérailleur, no parts needed to fix, just the know how... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6079" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T12:32:08.317" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T14:10:10.013" Title="What should I expect from a bicycle service?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;london&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14838" CreationDate="2013-03-13T19:18:32.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These services vary wildly from shop to shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My local shop will look at any bike and tell the owner if it's safe to ride. And of course, they'll tell the owner how much it would cost to make it safe if it's not already. They're pretty honest about it, but of course I can't guarantee that other places are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most shops offer a free &quot;tune-up&quot; with the purchase of a new bike. This usually includes minor maintenance and inspections such as tightening bolts, airing up tires, adjusting brake and derailleur cable tightness, checking that the wheels are true, etc., but no parts replacement. If the bike was not purchased from the shop in question, they will usually offer the same tune-up service for a relatively low fee, $25 (~£16) US where I live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many shops offer additional service levels beyond this. They may include replacing cables and/or cable housing, bar tape, brake pads, actually truing the wheels (this can be a more time consuming job and may not be included in a basic tune-up), and perhaps even a bike wash. These tune-ups can get fairly expensive, $100-$150 (£67-£100) US. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly how much you pay for any tune-up will depend on exactly what combination of services a shop offers and the amount of local competition, so you should really shop around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="6079" LastEditDate="2013-03-13T21:14:30.787" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T21:14:30.787" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="468" CreationDate="2013-03-13T22:33:21.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wintherbikes.com/en/product/kangaroo-luxe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Winther kangaroo&lt;/a&gt; but its expensive. Front trailer. Three wheeled and lots of storage space. Trailers are safe for 6/12 babies. A place for them to rest and shady. Water proof and bug proof too. Seats can change to face you or look at the front view. They also have the four seater one for your 5 year old. Capacity weight is 100kg. Saw it in the web. Tested safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6368" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T00:52:12.473" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T00:52:12.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14838" CreationDate="2013-03-14T13:39:43.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I wouldn't go for the tune-up service package unless I needed to have everything done that was in the package.  For instance, at my LBS, they charge $50 for brake, gears, minor wheel true, light cleaning (no disassembly), lube, air in the tires, safety inspection, and minor parts/accessories installation. Which might be good if I just picked up a used bike and needed all those things, but at lot of it is stuff I could do on my own.  For instance, they charge $25 for a wheel truing, so if the wheels are already true, most of the price of the service package is wasted. Even people without any mechanical aptitude can do things like oiling their chain, filling up the tires, and putting on a water bottle cage.  I would pay for exactly what you need, which might just be a safety inspection to make sure it's all safe, and maybe some simple adjustments like brakes and gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T13:39:43.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14783" CreationDate="2013-03-14T14:07:33.047" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I thought we needed an answer to this, so I just phoned the shop. He's a nice fellow (as you can tell from the vid) and said that his mechanic is convinced that this method works to free-up seized and corroded mechs. Apparently dousing it in something like GT85 and lighting it for a very short time boils in the lube, and works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that the combination of a penetrating lube, some heat, and vapour would achieve this as a last resort for badly seized metal components. I've done something similar on bearings when trying to get them out of BMX cups in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T14:07:33.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14838" CreationDate="2013-03-14T14:10:10.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In London? Check out Evans Cycles, they have a gozillion shops and do Bronze, Silver and Gold services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/servicing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Their web site&lt;/a&gt; tells you what you get at each level, looks like their stores price separately but to give you and idea the pricing from one of their stores can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/uploads/File/servicing/Holborn_ServicingPriceList.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Have generally found Evans a little more expensive than other shops for parts, but those numbers will put you in the ball park as regards what you can expect to pay in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably once they've seen the bike they are able to advise what level of service you need, and for &quot;bespoke&quot; work like straightening your derailleur I guess they'll just charge by the hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never used them myself tho' so not a personal recommendation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T14:10:10.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-14T15:04:13.760" Score="2" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CliFPeFurnI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hopper 20&quot; Folding Electric bike&lt;/a&gt;. This is basically a white-branded Viking E-Go bike when sold via Tesco UK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am quite tall so I need a longer seatpost for it to be comfortable to ride. How can I go about finding a replacement seat that would go higher than the default one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1634" LastEditorUserId="1634" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T15:24:44.710" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T11:28:38.593" Title="longer seatpost for a folding bike" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-14T16:46:30.773" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking to buy a new MTB and was wondering if a purchase of a frame and components separately was cheaper then buying a bike with everything?  I would assembling everything myself instead of a LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the bike manufacturers get volume discounts for some stuff, but not sure if they pass along those savings or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T16:46:30.773" Title="Is it cost effective to purchase a frame and components separately?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-03-14T17:15:31.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14844" CreationDate="2013-03-14T16:55:24.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't get something recommended by the manufacturer, you may be able to find something suitable by taking measurements or reading the size off the existing seat post. Sheldon brown has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;database of seatpost sizes&lt;/a&gt;, but sadly it doesn't seem to include Viking or Hopper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess there are three things you should look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tube diammeter: Must either match your existing post or you can sometimes use a plastic shim to make up the difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layback/Setback: How much the bracket at the top of the post is offset behind the tube. Larger numbers put your saddle a bit further from the handlebars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strength: I'm guessing really long seat posts for folders have to be pretty strong compared to those on standard bikes, so make sure it is specific to a folder and up to the job.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be best to take the old one into your local bike shop and ask if they can find something for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T11:28:38.593" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T11:28:38.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4210" CreationDate="2013-03-14T16:59:39.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lost in this thread is the weight savings on the circumference of the rim. With no need to have a brake surface, the rotational weight impact may be better with a disk even though the overall weight increases. I'll trade rim weight for hub weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, how many gram counters (keep in mind that there are 28 grams in an ounce) can afford to take a dump before the ride and save lbs????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6375" LastEditorUserId="3338" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T20:54:03.780" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T20:54:03.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-14T17:45:36.277" Score="4" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for what's available in terms of navigation for long distance rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will hopefully be doing some cycling around Europe in the coming summer, and would like to be able to know that I'm not going to get lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to all solutions, be it GPS navigation or strapping a map and compass to my handlebars!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of my options and what is most workable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6376" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T22:02:12.133" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T16:12:15.930" Title="Long Distance Navigation" Tags="&lt;navigation&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-03-31T16:12:39.007" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14848" CreationDate="2013-03-14T18:13:54.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent all last summer biking around Ireland, France, Italy (a bit), and Germany with my wife.  We went with map and compass to avoid being dependent on a battery to not get lost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Map Scale.&lt;/strong&gt;  In general, you need at least 1:250k map scale in my opinion.  More detailed (i.e., 1:200k or less) is nice, but you can end up buying/schlepping a lot of maps that way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ireland.&lt;/strong&gt; We used a 1:350k Rough Guide map that was just not quite detailed enough for bike touring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;France.&lt;/strong&gt; Go with Michelin 1:250k regional maps -- super accurate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swizerland.&lt;/strong&gt; Use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.swisstrails.ch/swisstrails_engl/veloland/veloland_national.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SwissTrails pdfs&lt;/a&gt; (a tour operator, but they are good), and follow the signs.  Most amazing signage in Europe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Germany.&lt;/strong&gt; The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?field-keywords=adfc%20radtourenkarte&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ADFC/BVA bike maps&lt;/a&gt;. Also has crazy lots of signs, but the map really helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Italy.&lt;/strong&gt;  We used Michelin again but were &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/review/R34F8G9MXZAR07/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt#R34F8G9MXZAR07&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;disappointed in the accuracy&lt;/a&gt;, particularly compared to Michelin's France maps -- never found a good alternative though (we left Italy after a week since it was just too hot to tour in July).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Map Holders.&lt;/strong&gt;  See &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2940/map-during-touring/12793#12793&quot;&gt;Map During Touring?&lt;/a&gt;&quot; on this site for info on map holders.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compass.&lt;/strong&gt;  Definitely strap a mini-compass to your handlebars.  Invaluable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Camera.&lt;/strong&gt;  I didn't really think of a camera as a navigation device before this last trip, but it is really useful to take pictures of maps. Many European towns have maps posted on the outskirts, and it can be helpful to take a picture to refer to later.  We would have been lost in a park in Italy had we not taken a picture of the trail map on the way in. Similarly, you can save on printing costs at an internet cafe by taking pictures of Google Maps at various zoom levels. I wouldn't plan a whole trip based on camera maps, but it is really nice to supplement.  Just make sure you have extra batteries, that you know how to use the pan and zoom on your camera, so you can look at the details of a map-picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T15:48:11.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14848" CreationDate="2013-03-14T18:31:34.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would use GPS for wilder trips, and a combination of online services and paper roadmaps for more civilized trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both ways of doing it generate some dependency and some indepencence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With GPS, you depend on the battery, but you know your position in realtime, and if your device has embedded mapping you virtually never need to stop and ask for directions. You can even replan as you navigate with ease. Depending on your pace and how much you want to interact with local people and get tour tips, that may be desireable or not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With ordinary paper road maps, you don't need to turn anything on, neither to buy expensive gadgets, but you end up needing some extra sources of information. Any internet-café will give you access to abuntant map services, so that you can plan ahead, and then navigate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have travelled these ways already, and currently I use to plan ahead online, specially with GoogleEarth/Maps looking for secondary roads. Then I take minimalistic notes on paper, and optionally take some gadget with me during the ride. I prefer to follow, in parallel, what I have planned and what I am seeing on the road, thinking stuff like &quot;well, after that hill the road is going to fork, and I have to take left&quot; or &quot;after the next town, there will be 30km for my destination&quot;. I leave the gps turned off, and only turn it on for reference in case I have some doubt or get lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GPS these days are very reliable (I would recommend Garmins), but also satellite imagery and online road maps are so vastly abundant that they make simple a travel that in the past would be complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T13:48:10.080" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T13:48:10.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14822" CreationDate="2013-03-14T19:11:28.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this question hasn't been closed as a duplicate yet, I'll point to two answers from another question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1120/3649&quot;&gt;How to store a bike outside and still avoid rapid decay?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you can use a tarp as described here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9192/3649&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9192/3649&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you can use a shed which you could put in your garden:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/1122/3649&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/1122/3649&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T19:11:28.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2013-03-14T19:42:54.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the seat is low its easier to use your shoes as a brake by pressing it behind the saddle against the tire. When -riding a brakeless BMX. If You don't, it's just the cool style of a &quot;brakeless&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6379" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T19:42:54.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2013-03-14T19:44:00.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different strokes for different folks is all. Guys with arms like legs and legs like people have no need for a stump puller or even a 25 sometimes and are wishing for a 10 until they discover what a Campy set up costs while in my world of recreation and fitness a 12-28 seems almost perfect most of the time and I've even considered a 13 or even 14-27 from the 6600 junior cassettes. My first road bike was a '73 Fuji S10S 10 speed with a 14-17-20-24-28 and it seemed to be all I really needed (at the time) but now, at almost 70 yrs, bigger gears are my friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6380" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T19:44:00.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14055" CreationDate="2013-03-14T21:02:58.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lucky's solution can be done with any sort of short, black tubular thing.  E.g. an old film canister, or a stub of wood or dowel.  Use some cheap wire snips to open up the mesh to accommodate the light-mount's adjustable strap about 1/2 inch below the top-front edge, and wrap the strap around the black object and the basket (through hole and over the edge).  Cinch it tight and you'd have as much rattling as you would have from attaching to the handlebars in the first place.  You could even use some rubber from a used tube or other bike-reflector/light clamps and put it between the block and the basket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;               [Basket below]&#xA;&#xA;                       =====&amp;lt;    [light, on &quot;O&quot; tube]&#xA;                      /--\&#xA;                |     ||O|&#xA;[Bike here,     |     \--/&#xA; forward        |      |&#xA; is to the      |      |&#xA; right]         |      |&#xA;                --------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is to get a small (3-4 inch) piece of flat metal bar, e.g. a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boying.b2bage.com/product-brackets/251198/metal-bracket.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;metal bracket with holes&lt;/a&gt; (pref. aluminum, plastic).  At the bottom of your basket, either on side near front or even straight forward, use wire snips to make a little horizontal slit for the bar to go through, but so it can stay flat with the bottom of the basket.  Now you lay the bar there with half in, half out, tied to the bottom with black zip ties or a nut and bolt.  You could zip tie the light to the bar itself or maybe screw a piece of wood dowel or pipe to the end and attach the light to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;               [Basket below]&#xA;&#xA;                |      |&#xA;[Bike here,     |      |&#xA; forward        |      |           [light, at end of bar, maybe with a tube.]&#xA; is to the      |      |  =====&amp;lt;&#xA; right]         |    ______O&#xA;                --------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how you can recharge the light, and on whether you mind reaching in to press the power button, you could even snip a big enough hole in the front of the basket so the light would simply lie flat (adjusted for angle) on the bottom of the basket, inside, with only the lens up against the outside.  This could use black zip ties and be very discrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;               [Basket below]&#xA;&#xA;                |      |&#xA;[Bike here,     |      |&#xA; forward        |      |&#xA; is to the      |      |           [light, strapped inside]&#xA; right]         | =====&amp;lt;&#xA;                --------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T21:02:58.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14818" CreationDate="2013-03-14T21:51:35.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Additionally: To cut at a perfect rightangle, I use two 'lock-on' collars (the sort that come with ODI MTB grips) next to eachother with a small gap between them as a guide for the hacksaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T21:51:35.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-15T04:47:54.407" Score="2" ViewCount="4467" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a suspended fork I use a Shimano Nexave BR-IM75-F roller brake and the cooling disc of the brake is not tighly fixed on the hub and it was like that since I got the roller-brake installed. I'm not sure whether this is &quot;by design&quot; or a fault. Opening the brrake side of the hub didn'r reveal nay way to make the fit tigher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, It works fine for stoppping, but when I go over rough terrain the disc seems to rattles a lot, which creates quite a bit of noise. - Not nice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what I can do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the Brake (I hope it helps understanding the situation!):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRLE0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pictureofbrake&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5634" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T01:47:34.983" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T18:12:54.913" Title="Rattling of a Shimano Nexave roller brake" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-16T00:13:09.963" Score="10" ViewCount="33171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Reading UK and commute between home and workplace 5-6 days a week (round trip about 6-7 miles). I know that hybrids are good enough for pretty much anything, but I find road bikes really light and good for the job, especially to go around curbs and very high slopes (about 45 degrees). However, most of the roads in Reading are quite broken and full of potholes and cracks. I wonder if it is a good idea for me to use road bikes in general for my daily commute? How badly will it affect me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A specific example of cracks and potholes I am referring to can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://clubchaosagents.com/image_store/uploads/8/6/8/8/3/ar127785291538868.JPG&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bostonstandard.co.uk/webimage/1.4717610.1359039997!/image/1866596396.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_595/1866596396.jpg&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am really frustrated and want to know how badly will I damage a road bike if ridden on these kinds of roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6386" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T18:20:08.000" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T03:33:12.553" Title="Are road bikes durable for use on roads full of cracks and potholes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14858" CreationDate="2013-03-16T02:01:54.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a city with very bad asphalt conditions. My fellow riders and I used to ride with 700x23c wheels (road bikes, fixed-gear bikes, and hybrids) for training at night and commuting. We were hard on the bikes, and avoided only the big potholes. Our bikes did not become damaged although the ride was uncomfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, you can use a good road bike without problems in the conditions you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important, though, that your bike have good quality components, especially the structural components that could break: rims, spokes, frame, fork, and handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="6419" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T16:43:39.933" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T16:43:39.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14848" CreationDate="2013-03-16T09:56:18.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will you be planning your route beforehand, or will it all be on an ad hoc basis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect if you're going to do everything ad-hoc, then you will need an array of maps. I guess the most difficult thing here will be translating a path on the map into a daily rideable distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I have gone touring with a pre-planned route so I can certainly say what worked for me. This was basically spending time on the web beforehand, and on the road using a cycle computer and having a smartphone for backup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preparation:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a site called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeroutetoaster.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeRouteToaster&lt;/a&gt; to plan routes. I don't know how well-known this site is, and I'm certainly aware of other sites that offer this, but I like this one. You get a Google Maps interface which allows you to create routes. Having created your route you get things like distances and elevation profiles there and then, so you can fit your route to what you want to ride for the day. The end result is a file containing your route - GPX is an standard format which has been around forever, it also export TCX files for newer devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cycle Computer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Central to my planning was a &lt;a href=&quot;https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=112912&amp;amp;pvID=113158&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Garmin 800&lt;/a&gt; (I see there is now a new one out, so you may get a bargain). This is quite a high-end computer so you will pay accordingly. However it contains a GPS and will take in suck in the courses from BikeRouteToaster. The big thing about this is that it has a micro SD card on which you can put maps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, don't get me wrong, the display on this unit can make map-reading quite painful, but in terms of showing your immediate vicinity and indicating which way you should go, it works well. You're not going to get lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maps, unfortunately, have to be in a proprietary format, and this again is reflected in the price. However the good news is that there are various resources on the web which will convert Open Source Maps into the format required by the device. I bought a 16GB card and have pretty much all of Europe on mine, at no cost. I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://garmin.openstreetmap.nl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://garmin.openstreetmap.nl/&lt;/a&gt; to do this, but there are others I guess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good thing about using a computer is battery life - my 800 will quite happily run all day with power to spare, and will recharge via USB. And this is the big win over something like a smartphone, which will drain pretty quickly if you're using its GPS all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mobile Phone&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, a smartphone is great to have as a backup. Most of the time it just sat dormant in my pocket, but every now and then I would get it out just to use its GPS/maps. I have an application called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.memory-map.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Memory Map&lt;/a&gt;, which offers high-quality commercial maps (Ordnance Survey in the UK, IGN in France etc.), but again which come at a price. I've been using this app for years and have built up a collection of maps... Alternatively of course you have freebies like Google Maps (although bear in mind it is worth caching maps beforehand since you won't necessarily have a phone signal when you need it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the smartphone was my alternative to carrying paper maps, and a 5&quot; screen may not work for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I say this setup worked for me, but I do think it is dependent on how much you want to prepare your route in advance. I realise that overplanning could potentially spoil this kind of holiday if you're not careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-03-16T10:09:04.273" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T10:09:04.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2013-03-16T10:12:42.770" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that &quot;righty tighty, lefty loosey&quot; is the official answer, but I do like the &quot;right is right, and left is wrong&quot; one. Makes more sense to me. It's amazing how I can remember some pretty complicated sequences of stuff about all kinds of things, but this simple concept escapes me every time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T10:12:42.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14765" CreationDate="2013-03-16T11:23:09.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hybrid bicycle with accessories (fenders, lighting system etc.), so not too light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ride of 6km takes me 20-22 min (=16-18 km/h). That is with few traffic lights, but a height difference of about 60m (uphill). I am reasonably fit, but do not train, apart from my bicycle commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, to estimate how long a trip will take, I'd take my personal speed under &quot;ideal&quot; conditions (fit and rested, good road, no traffic lights or other obstacles, no height difference, good weather) - that speed will vary on how you ride, but you should be able to estimate it from past rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then apply correction factors for less than ideal conditions. Again, you'll have to estimate e.g. times at traffic lights. That should give you a good rule of thumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T11:23:09.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14866" CreationDate="2013-03-16T20:41:35.003" Score="12" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cross railroads as perpendicularly as is possible, but that's all I know to do.  Safety is a priority, speed not so much.  Specifically: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there an optimum speed?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should you pedal through them or coast?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it depend on the type of bike? (mine is a stock Giant Rapid 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other tips?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5927" LastEditorUserId="3338" LastEditDate="2013-03-17T00:37:47.537" LastActivityDate="2020-09-26T16:00:27.413" Title="What is the proper technique for crossing railroad tracks?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14864" CreationDate="2013-03-16T22:18:53.027" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Approach at something close to a right angle.  Easiest if the track is square to the road, of course.  Only a little less easy if the track on the right-hand side (on US roads) is nearer than the left, so you can, in advance of your approach, swing out into the lane to achieve a square approach.  Much trickier the other way -- you must wait for traffic behind to be clear so you can swing out into traffic as you cross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approach at &quot;moderate&quot; speed (maybe 10 mph).  For a single track coast, for multiple tracks you likely must crank, but not too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite important:  Raise your butt off the seat and &quot;suspend&quot; your body on arms and legs.  This isn't to save your butt (except maybe figuratively) but to assure that the bike doesn't bounce as it goes over the rails, and the wheels maintain firm contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you approach, always study the rails and whatever is placed beside and between the rails.  Often there will be a gap between ends of wood pieces, eg, and you don't want to get your wheel too near that gap.  Very occasionally there will be a splice in the rails themselves, and that likewise needs to be avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as one tour leader once told us, if the rails are wet, crawl across, dragging your bike behind you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T22:18:53.027" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2013-03-17T06:14:29.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can water and soap or use dish washing liquid. After spraying water don't let it dry. Use gasoline and toothbrush or paint brush. Gasoline easily evaporates and it helps the chain, crank, and cog from rust. Gasoline can also eliminate oil and grease from chain and cog. Hope it will help lot a mtb rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6396" LastEditorUserId="1433" LastEditDate="2013-03-17T17:38:25.637" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T17:38:25.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-17T12:24:45.447" Score="2" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed the pedals of a Göricke bike from 1934 or 1935 (according to the bike number). It has a Glockenlager (What is that in English? Bell shaped bottom bracket?) as seen in the picture. The crank threading for the pedals however is quite messed up and I would like to re-cut it. I measured 4 threads at about 4,8mm (or 4,9mm) with an 14,2mm external diameter on the pedals. The diameter is a tipical 9/16 pedal threading, but the thread steapness only results in about 20-21 threads per inch, and not 24. 24 is the normal amount of threads per inch for pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: I noticed 20 tpi is normal and not 24 tpi. Therefore it should be a normal threading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this some other threading they used in these days or shall I just cut it with a normal pedal thread cutter? The pedal make is K&amp;amp;B (the logo is in a cloveleaf)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HWnAe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="4680" LastEditDate="2013-03-17T16:55:52.130" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T03:45:33.570" Title="Size of Pedal Threading on old German Glockenlager?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;germany&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14818" CreationDate="2013-03-17T16:41:25.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had better luck with the purpose made tungsten carbide blades. The teeth on a normal hacksaw blade tend to fray the carbon fibers more easily, especially with a low tooth count blade. The carbide blades are less apt to cause fraying, but you still have to be mindful as you cut. Let the blade do the work for you- don't bare down on the saw as you make your strokes.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The other big part to cutting carbon is your own personal safety. Carbon dust is nasty stuff that you don't want to inhale. A dust mask is one way mitigate the dust, but it still goes everywhere just to be knocked back up into the air later. Your best bet for keeping the dust out of the air is to spray water or rubbing alcohol (it dries quicker) onto the area you are cutting as you cut it. This traps the dust and keeps it in one place. Once you're done cutting you just wipe up the liquid and allow the area to dry. Much tidier and better for your lungs and the lungs of your shop mates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T16:41:25.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14824" CreationDate="2013-03-17T16:55:02.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question in a word: No.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can run any tire on the rims you want. The &quot;UST only&quot; sticker is referring to when you're running tubeless. Even then I wouldn't pay it much mind. There are plenty of good non UST tubeless tires out there. Squirt some sealant in there, air them up and off you go. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The UST standard is a dying (dead?) standard. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Our friend Stan&lt;/a&gt; played a big part in making that happen. Before there were many tubeless tires available his tubeless kits converted most, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/recommendedtires.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;but not all&lt;/a&gt;, non tubeless mtb tires to tubeless with no more issue than you would have with a UST certified setup. Some would argue that the NoTubes kits were more dependable than UST.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T16:55:02.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14874" CreationDate="2013-03-18T00:53:20.153" Score="6" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently using a hybrid bike, which weighs about 10kg (quite light for the category I've heard), and my longest ride has been 65km at an average of 18km/h in a mostly flat terrain. &#xA;In this ride for many kms I had a big muscle pain in my legs; by the end of the ride, stopping at traffic lights was extremely painful. Also, it took hours at home to go from huge pain to just normal muscle pain. I do not think I could have gone even one kilometer further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was pedaling at a good cadence, aiming for 90rpm. At no moment I felt like instant burning in my muscles; I would choose easy gears to keep me in high cadence and light strokes; it felt relaxed. But still, after 35km I felt 'loaded'; after that the pain started to increase more and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will participate in a race of 180km with a time limit of 9 hours (so I need 20km/h and I am fine with finishing in 8h59m, I just want to finish), 3 months from now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I roughly need to go a little bit faster and improve my endurance 3-fold in 3 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current plans for improvement are (my bike is 500$ Giant Escape; nothing fancy):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy clip-on aerobars. This should make me reach the speed I need, the terrain in mostly flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy clipless pedals. To help me use different muscles. I do not know how much would this help with endurance. I hope 10% or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy energy gels, I did not feel like I was lacking energy but I guess they will help. And on the race day I'll need them for sure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other gear, training techniques, and race day tactics can be used to improve endurance quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6399" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T10:30:09.393" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T17:47:13.170" Title="3x increase in endurance in 3 months?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14873" CreationDate="2013-03-18T02:04:48.527" Score="9" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you did 65km (40 miles), then after recovery (maybe 1 week) you can probably do that distance again with much less discomfort.  You should then be able to increase your mileage about 10-20% a week, if you get in one max-length ride and one about 1/3rd shorter each week.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conveniently, I've found that you can usually, if you push yourself, ride about 50% farther than your &quot;accustomed&quot; ride (though you will be dragging at the end).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You do need to eat and drink on a long ride.  I'm a big advocate of this stuff called &quot;food&quot; for that (hopefully provided for you on your ride), though it doesn't hurt to have some sugary snacks.  And did I say DRINK?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;90 RPM is probably a hair too fast.  But you do need to keep your cadence up, especially as you begin to tire.  20k/h (12.5mph) is not a terribly fast pace (even allowing for rest stops), so it's important to not burn yourself out trying to maintain a fast pace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, for 180km (112 miles) you will be running on empty near the end -- that distance is challenging.  But by slowly working your endurance up you can probably make it.  DON'T expect to do it with &quot;tricks&quot;, though -- the most important thing to do is to just steadily increase your distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-03-18T02:23:46.520" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T02:23:46.520" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14873" CreationDate="2013-03-18T03:13:37.047" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Additionally to @Daniel's excellent answer, focusing on building endurance first - use this time to learn what foods and drinks work for you. It's risky doing 180km on food and drink you have not consumed before while riding. I set a repeating stop watch to beep every 20 minutes to remind me to eat and drink. I also agree with Daniel - I need real food, gels and such like are great, but I get hungry without a decent feed. Main thing is learn what works for you, and most importantly, what doesn't. 180km is a long way to ride with a 'heavy' stomach and not wanting to eat or drink.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed would not normally be considered in a training regime until you can comfortable doing about 2/3rds of the distance required. However, as you are concerned about the cutoff time, you may want to work on speed sooner - in which case slot it into no more than one short distance / higher speed ride a week. If you get the baseline endurance fitness right, speed will not normally be a problem. Early on, experiment with you bike setup and see what might help with going faster for no more effort - for instance tire pressure and seat height can make a big difference and costs nothing to fix.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-03-18T15:21:47.913" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T15:21:47.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-18T06:20:55.573" Score="21" ViewCount="3576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded to puncture resistant tires on my road bike. The previous tires are old, but still usable. Is there any value to doing anything other than throwing them out? For instance, is there any reason to keep them? Is it possible to sell used tires? If no one wants them, can/should they be recycled? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5212" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T00:46:50.140" Title="What to do with old tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2013-03-18T07:50:10.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Jarrett - I also unclip by turning the heel inwards and it is also logical in that your foot is facing slightly away from the bike on release, just seems to make more sense and going the other way seems un-natural for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6401" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T07:50:10.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14876" CreationDate="2013-03-18T08:20:51.907" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use your old tires for when you are on the trainer and your new tires for road riding.  That way your trainer wont wear out your new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T08:20:51.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14876" CreationDate="2013-03-18T09:57:53.940" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;New tires are puncture resistance, not proof. It is possible to cut them so they can not be used. I keep old tires, as a quick fix for such situations until I can buy new ones. Also I frequently go to the cottage house with bicycle (cca 60km). So I keep one old spare tire there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T09:57:53.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14876" CreationDate="2013-03-18T10:20:48.447" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually gift them to people who need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: To expand more on my answer, I use rather expensive tyres and I want them in mint condition. So after a couple of months I'll most probably change them. The old tyres can still give 6-12 months of quality riding time to someone. So I'll post on local riding forums with closeup photos of the tread and usually people will get them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-03-21T07:11:54.530" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T07:11:54.530" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14889" CreationDate="2013-03-18T10:28:34.957" Score="2" ViewCount="8048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just presented a new Sigma BC 1609 (wireless), assembled, put the sensor on the fork and a magnet on a spike, set the wheel size, looks fine.&#xA;But the speedometer does not work - it is just flashing?&#xA;Any hints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;replied the question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6194" LastEditorUserId="6194" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T09:46:28.273" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T16:08:57.417" Title="Sigma bc 1609 kmh flashing but not counting" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-18T20:41:01.537" Score="1" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to convert my fixie to a front wheel disc brake set up. I've narrowed down a fork that looks promising, and I'm on to the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got 700x23c tires I want to keep, so I want the wheel to fit. I understand the hub needs to be disc brake compatible. When I search for it (700x23c disc wheel OR 700x23c disc hub wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the right term to search for that I'll get results for the product type that I'm looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4461" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T21:43:45.387" Title="What's the correct term for a 700x23c disc wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14882" CreationDate="2013-03-18T21:43:45.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A search for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=road%20rim%20with%20disk%20hub&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;oq=road%20rim%20with%20disk%20hub&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.0.57j62.3789&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#hl=en&amp;amp;sclient=psy-ab&amp;amp;q=cyclocross%20disk%20wheels&amp;amp;oq=cyclocross%20disk&amp;amp;gs_l=serp.3.1.0l4.17072.22627.0.24796.15.8.0.7.7.0.95.576.8.8.0.les;..0.0...1c.1.6.psy-ab.f8XNuB5h824&amp;amp;pbx=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&amp;amp;bvm=bv.43828540,d.cGE&amp;amp;fp=5d76e49206851269&amp;amp;biw=1454&amp;amp;bih=726&quot;&gt;cyclocross disk wheels&lt;/a&gt; turned up plenty of options.  Maybe &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10052&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;catalogId=10551&amp;amp;productId=1123592&amp;amp;utm_source=Google_Product_Search&amp;amp;utm_medium=pla&amp;amp;utm_campaign=datafeed&amp;amp;cm_mmc=Google_Product_Search-_-PLA-_-Datafeed-_-Stan%27s%20Alpha%20340%20Disc%20Front%20Wheel%20Null%20Front&amp;amp;CAWELAID=1304360140&amp;amp;catargetid=1630495989&amp;amp;cagpspn=pla&quot;&gt;this wheel&lt;/a&gt; would work for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5371" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T21:43:45.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-19T01:19:55.843" Score="2" ViewCount="1147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that only mechanical brakes work with road bike levers (I'm assuming that means the type that goes on the front of drop bars). Is this restriction the case with time trial brake levers that go on the end of bullhorn handles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4461" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T04:51:05.250" Title="Hydraulic brakes with time trial levers?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14884" CreationDate="2013-03-19T01:31:07.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic road brakes will be out next year (at a guess). You can see leaked pictures all over the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the mean time, Magura make a TT brake already, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magura.com/en/roadbike/home.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RT8 TT&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if you and get these if your're not &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/bikes/p-series.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cervelo&lt;/a&gt; though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T01:31:07.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14884" CreationDate="2013-03-19T02:30:43.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magura.com/en/roadbike/home.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magura RT6 and RT8 Hydraulic TT&lt;/a&gt; brakes have been available (if somewhat unusual) since last year. They are a solid system which is compatible with most current TT frames.  The RT6I've only seen as an OEM product.  The RT8 seems to be the retail version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4Vgw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Magura RT8&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic STI levers from Shimano are expected on display at the Taipei Bike Show, going on this week, and an announcement from SRAM is expected in late May.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo below is a pre-release Shimano Hyddraulic STI lever seen last February on Rabobank pro rider Michiel vd Heijden's cyclocross bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tSFNK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rabobank pro rider Michiel vd Heijden&amp;#39;s cyclocross bike with hydraulic discs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T04:51:05.250" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T04:51:05.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2013-03-19T02:49:02.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly believe this statement is valid for only some of the many cycling disciplines that exists, most surely for conmuting and road cycling. For strict XC, maybe. But for All Mountain and Downhill this ratio must be out of true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diferent bikes have diferent geometries, thus locating the rider's center of mass at different heights. This alone makes a huge diference. In a mountain bike where you sit more rearwards and relatively lower than on a road bike, the rear brake can except a little more force before skidding than on a road bike. This also means you can brake harder with the front before going over the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear and front brake serve slightly different purposes, while front brake is mostly for strong speed reduction, the rear brake is more for &quot;speed control&quot; and in some cases for stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put, there are trails where the terrain would simply not allow use of the front brake while turning, these make ideal scenario for rear brake use. Consider a sumatory of forces aproach. If the steering force required is near the limit of the friction the terrain-tire interface can provide, braking force is very likely to exceed the available friction. In this kind of situation even the limited  braking that the rear can provide is very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purposefully locking the rear wheel can also be a technique. I sometimes use a strong pulse to the rear to induce a short skid in order to align the bike to the exit line of a very tight curve. While this is not stopping or speed reduction, it is certainly a form of use of the rear brake and it requires some skill to be performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I rode a hardtail mountain bike (suspension fork, rigid frame) i noticed that applying the rear brake alone caused the fork to compress roughly the same than the front, this without skidding the rear. From that I concluded that the rear brake helps increasing downforce over the front wheel, thus allowing even more braking force to be effectively applyed to the front. Diverse tests I performed led me to confirm this. (I tried the best as I could not to be biased).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally my wear ratio between front tire/rear tire is almost 50/50, particularily on my DH bike wich uses exactly the same tire front and rear. In my XC bike the ratio changes a little, but I use different tires, the brake pads, however, wear almost 50/50 (V-Brakes, double susp.). I also commute on a hardtail, in a very hilly city. This bike has the same tire model front/rear and uses really cheap V-Brakes. Rear ratio 50/50 for both, tires and brake pads, and for me is really easy to descend faster than cars and motorcycles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is more anecdotal than scientific, but I consider myself a succesful descender, both DH and XC, and for the terrain variety I have ridden, I would never dare to travel certain trails front brake alone, at least not as fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T02:49:02.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14873" CreationDate="2013-03-19T09:19:07.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of great answers here already but I would add the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydration and Nutrition are very important in ‘endurance’ exercise lasting more than an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last fall I bonked hard about 50 miles (80 km) into a ride (as in I literally couldn’t turn the pedals on my bike anymore) so I talked with my company’s nutritionist which led me to realize I was neither eating nor drinking properly. I’ve successfully experimented with her advice, indeed 3 weeks after I talked with her I was able to complete my first 100 mile (160 km) ride with that ride occurring almost exactly 3 months after I started cycling. Based off my experiences I would recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hydration:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pre –ride make sure you are hydrated before you start riding. This means consuming 10-16 ounces (0.3 - 0.5l) of water a couple hours before your ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the ride: 6-8 ounces (0.2 - 0.25 l) of fluid every 15-20 minutes of endurance exercise after the first 60 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider sports drinks containing carbohydrates and/or Electrolytes (sodium, potassium and other salts.)  What you do here is going to be partly based on how you want to consume your carbs while riding. I usually try to obtain all my carbs from food so I use electrolyte tablets in my water bottles instead of sports drinks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should be consuming 400-600 mg of sodium be hour depending on the environment (and how heavily you sweat.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post- ride consume 16 ounces (0.5 l) of fluid for every pound of body weight lost during the ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weighing yourself pre and post ride is a good idea until you get a good understanding of what it takes for you to maintain proper hydration. If you are losing more than a pound or two during a ride you are not hydrating enough and your recovery times from the rides are going to be longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Nutrition:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pre-ride, if possible 75-100 grams of carbs 3 hours before your ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the ride, focus on the amount of carbohydrates you are consuming NOT the number of calories you are consuming. On a 112 mile (180 km) ride you are like to burn 4000-5000 kilocalories (16000 - 20000 kJ), there is no way you can come close to eating that many calories during a ride without making yourself sick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the ride consume easily digestible carbohydrates. Try to consume roughly 0.3g to .5g of carbohydrates per pound of body weight per hour after the first hour of training. Converting stored fat to energy is a slow process so consuming a base amount of carbohydrates should provide your body with enough fuel from consumed carbs that it has time to get the rest of the energy needed for your ride from stored fat instead of by &lt;em&gt;burning up your muscles&lt;/em&gt;. You’ll need to experiment with this to find the right levels of consumption here. When I started out cycling I needed closer to .5g per hour and now I’m about .3g per hour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too many simple carbs during exercise can lead to a queasy stomach so if you are consuming sports drinks contain carbs make sure to subtract the grams of carbs the sports drinks from any additional carbs you consume.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you eat, also drink. This is especially true if you are consuming concentrated energy food like a gel, goo, gummy or to an extent, even bananas. If you don’t, again, you can wind up with a queasy stomach.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post-ride:  This is when you want to consume protein to help repair any damage done to your muscles. Low-fat Chocolate milk is a great choice here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, make sure on the day of your big event you eat and drink the same as you have during your training rides. This might mean finding out what types of foods and drink are being offered on the course and making sure you train during the last several weeks before the ride using those products OR just making sure you bring enough food/drink with you to cover the whole ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bike Setup&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside of focusing on nutrition I would suggest you make sure your bike is adjusted properly.  Setup is a good bit easier on a hybrid than a road bike but a trip to your LBS to checkout your saddle height and forward/aft position is well worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional things I would suggest:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Post ride make sure you stretch before your muscles get too cooled down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add walking (2-3 miles at a time) to your exercise routine.  This was a big one for me when I started riding heavily, all my exercise was coming from the bike which meant some of my leg muscles weren’t getting used enough to counteract the over-development of the muscles used in cycling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a short (~1 hour) ride the day after a long ride to help keep your leg muscles nice and limber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take at least one day off from riding per week to allow give your body some time to heal all the damage you are doing to your muscles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T17:47:13.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14881" CreationDate="2013-03-19T09:46:14.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;update After watching the installation video on the Sigma web-site, understood that the gap was too big between sensor and the magnet. So the sensor shouldn't parallel to the wheel, but pointing towards it - &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/jV7tCwbTOmc?start=196&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6194" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T09:46:14.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13237" CreationDate="2013-03-19T10:36:14.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a footnote on page 3 of the PDF brochure you linked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Approximate unfolded size L:1430 W:550 H:1000 Wheelbase:980 BB height:300 (mm) mm mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Approximate folded size L:690 W:310 H:630 Volume:0.134 (mm) m&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ori is designed and tested for use by riders weighing up to 100kg &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6406" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T10:36:14.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14858" CreationDate="2013-03-19T13:03:48.647" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the roads around Reading very well. I commute 10 miles into Reading every day. I also ride a lot at lunchtime. I probably ride 5,000 miles a year in Berkshire. I ride a Bianchi C2C road bike which has an aluminium frame and carbon fork. Any modern road bike of reasonable quality will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The roads around Reading aren't that bad. I've never had a problem with the roads damaging my bike. That said, I do take reasonable care, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoiding the really bad bits by looking ahead and steering around them. Be aware and cautious of traffic when you do this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hitting rough bits lightly. Bend at your elbows and knees, and absorb the shock. Don't let the shock transmit up to your body as the weight puts stress on the frame and wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not riding up and down raised kerbs. If you have to cross a kerb, get off and lift your bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only riding asphalt surfaces (i.e. roads or good cycle tracks). Don't ride dirt or gravel routes, such as the one alongside the river.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to check out some bikes, I'd suggest AW Cycles in Caversham (I have no affiliation with them other than as a customer). They have a good range and are knowledgable and friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6407" LastEditorUserId="6419" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T16:43:19.917" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T16:43:19.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14894" CreationDate="2013-03-19T16:46:08.213" Score="13" ViewCount="7886" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the padding inside of a bicycle helmet contribute to the overall security of the helmet? I.e. do they cushion a crash in some way, or are they just there for comfort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T22:02:09.760" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T00:15:15.217" Title="Does helmet padding contribute to the safety of a helmet?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14892" CreationDate="2013-03-19T18:45:13.280" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because there is an optimum placement position for the helmet on the head, having padding that helps keep the helmet in place, or makes the helmet more comfortable to wear, indirectly contributes to the safety of the helmet.  But aside from a very minor absorption of force during the moment of impact the padding really has no direct impact on the safety a helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern bike helmets are designed to deform in a crash.  Basically, the hard foam and plastic that the helmet is made out of, crumples during an impact.  This dissipates the force of impact during a crash. For this reason it is important to replace your helmet after any significant impact.  The padding is mostly there for comfort, and to make the helmet fit slightly better.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helmets.org/guide.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&quot;The spongy foam pads inside a helmet are for comfort and fit, not for impact protection&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5371" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T10:16:26.410" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T10:16:26.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14909" CreationDate="2013-03-19T21:09:36.283" Score="4" ViewCount="1492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to lace an Alvine hub wheel. Reading Sheldon Browns article there is a suggestion that the trailing, and so key, spokes might be better laced the opposite of what would be done for a deraillieur wheel. Meaning that the trailing spokes would go on the outside of the flange of the hub, thus the flat end of the spoke is on the inside of the flange. &#xA;Is this advisable and correct or does it not really matter? Or have I misunderstood completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6411" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T01:53:20.807" Title="lacing Alfine wheel, trailing spokes inside or outside hub flange" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14897" CreationDate="2013-03-19T22:27:29.443" Score="1" ViewCount="2657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new problem on my bike which occured after patching my inner tube. Since I put the patch on, my tire is pushed out away from the rim near the intake valve (not near the patch). In the picture below, you can see the inner tube between the rim and the tire (partially hidden from view by snow). This is the case only on that spot, and only on that side. I can still ride the bike (I've been riding it like this for two days) but I can feel a small bump every time my wheel make a full rotation. Mostly, I'm afraid it will break soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question: What's causing this problem and how can I solve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cZbFF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2360" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T14:48:38.323" Title="How can I repair a swollen tire allowing visibility on the inner tube (picture provided)?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14896" CreationDate="2013-03-19T22:46:20.850" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture does not make the situation totally clear, but it appears that tube is not centered in the tire, and the tire is not centered over the rim.  This tends to happen especially near the stem, because the thicker part of the tube gets caught between tire and rim and prevents the tire from sliding into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deflate the tire, then press the valve stem in about 1/2 or 3/4 inch while you wiggle the tire to get it around and under tube.  Inflate slowly, and if you see the same thing again, repeat the process.  It may take two or three tries to get things lined up..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If, on the other hand, what we're seeing is the sidewall failing and the tube pressing through the sidewall then the tire's toast.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T23:54:03.777" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T23:54:03.777" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14912" CreationDate="2013-03-19T23:31:39.763" Score="3" ViewCount="1655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a folding bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn%3aANd9GcRQUAODRIYErrFCwiVNwCAE0giH2nmp2Gx_79TmqLtm4Twr2hvngg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;basically this Origin8 model&lt;/a&gt;) and the seat/seat post got stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't replaced a seat post before, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007Q4M678&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is the only replacement post I could find, and I'm not sure what else I need besides a saddle.  It doesn't have any sort of mounting apparatus, so I'm not sure what kind of saddle I need or if I'm missing really important hardware.  Is there a specific seat I should be looking for or do I need to buy mounting hardware?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6414" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T00:57:06.593" Title="Folding Bike Seat Post Replacement" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2013-03-20T01:08:50.700" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc will always be better. Now there are systems lighter than v's. even a cheap set of disc brakes are better. i used traditional brakes until 2 years ago when i bought a bike with dual mechanical  disc brakes and immediately felt the huge difference. its not really that they stop better but how they feel when stopping. its the same feeling from braking in a car or motorcycle. with v's braking isnt as good even if it can stop the bike just as fast. disc is more superior and dominant overall. the control you have with disc is amazing compared to v. traditional brakes will never ever have the modulation and advantages that disc will always have. facts are facts. dont care if ur a v brake fan and a weight weenie. gotta move on same day ya know? dont need them? thats fine i didnt either but they are so good i want them and i got them. never going back to traditional brakes ever again :) ya wonder why u started to see more and more disc brakes on bike eh? maybe cuz they work so dam good? try them with a professional setup not one from kmart or walmart cuz those are not adjusted correctly therefore people sometimes assume they suck. have a nice day&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6415" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T13:42:46.143" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T13:42:46.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14896" CreationDate="2013-03-20T01:15:52.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really looks like the bead has torn away from the tire.  You can verify by taking the tire off and looking for a metal wire (like a big loop) is exposed in the corresponding area.  If it is bad you will even be able to insert your finger between the beed and tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, it is not repairable and is dangerous to ride on.  Without an intact bead, the tire will not properly adhere to the rim when inflated (consistent with your description).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Daniel R Hicks stated if you ride on this and it blows it can be disastrous (e.g., a blow out on a corner where the tire is under more pressure).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T01:15:52.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14896" CreationDate="2013-03-20T02:24:30.203" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in other answers, the true solution is to get a new tire but you can for a short time reinforce the worn section of the sidewall with a folded dollar bill.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just fold the bill into thirds and place it between the tire and the tube.  I am not sure why (or if) a dollar works better than other materials but this is what I was always told and this is what I have always used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1470" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T02:24:30.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14920" CreationDate="2013-03-20T03:16:47.767" Score="9" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy bicycling the most in cities that provide separate lanes for bicyclists - Portland and Boulder come to mind. In addition to bicycle lanes, what other governmental/civic actions ensure a  safe and desirable environment for bicycles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what are the natural characteristics that contribute to an ideal bicycling location? For example, some coastal cities may have extensive bicycle lanes and paths running parallel to the ocean, making them terrific place for rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there specific conditions or circumstances that make some towns bicycle unfriendly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6419" LastEditorUserId="6419" LastEditDate="2013-03-22T20:53:43.397" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T11:59:40.110" Title="What natural features and governmental conditions contribute to a bicycle friendly town/city?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;city&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14918" CreationDate="2013-03-20T05:55:16.450" Score="2" ViewCount="831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear often claims similar to &quot;many cyclists wear their helmets the wrong way&quot; and &quot;wearing a helmet incorrectly significantly reduces it's protective ability&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My helmet is similar to the following one(only with vent holes). Note the two-stage straps on both sides (that is, one can tighten the helmet forward-up and backwards-up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual featured a couple of crossed out pictures - don't tilt the helmet over your eyes (duh!) and don't tilt it so far back, that the forehead is bare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in doubt if I am using my helmet correctly. &lt;strong&gt;What are the checkpoints to cover, before being positive that the helmet is not providing just a &lt;em&gt;false&lt;/em&gt; sense of security?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, tightening. How tight should the helmet be? Must it resist grabbing it by hand and forcing it sideways around my head? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question of particular interest to me concerns the rear straps. Those seem to either hang (very) loose, or, if I tighten them and when I tilt my head (slightly) forward, stretch out and limit the movement (in an uncomfortable way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wRI4M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T06:44:58.420" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T17:59:36.940" Title="What is the correct way to put a helmet on?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14904" CreationDate="2013-03-20T08:15:54.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual pretty much sums it up. The helmet should sit naturally at the correct place without the straps. The straps are only there to hold it in place in a prang, when a bit of chaffing / bruising  is the least of your problems.  A small amount of slack (you should be able to fit two - three fingers between the strap and you) is best. If the straps are pulling the helmet out of position, loosen them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that not all of us have the same sized and shaped heads, so it is possible your helmet is just not a good fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also the bike helmet only protects against brain injury. Theres plenty of scope for a large amount of pain and cosmetic damage - think what a face plant at 30mph would do, and still scope for massive brain injury with a properly fitting helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a reasonable argument that wearing a helmet provide a false sense of security - essentially if you would not do it without a helmet, don't do it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your helmet is a very last resort -  a &quot;get out of jail&quot; card that only works sometimes. Worth wearing? - I have a mate with a brain injury (non cycling) ... need I say more.....     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T08:15:54.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14876" CreationDate="2013-03-20T08:29:00.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case your idea of tire reuse goes beyond reusing them on a bike, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycling.about.com/od/thebikelife/tp/Reuse-And-Recycle-Possibilities-For-Your-Old-Tubes-And-Tires.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://diychicreuse.blogspot.de/2011/04/bike-parts-reuse.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;that&lt;/a&gt; can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main points from links that pertain to tyres and tubes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyre liners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;handy things around the house&quot; like rubber bands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fashion accessories (belts, bags, wallets, elbow patches)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resurrect them (patch the tubes and reuse them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Recycle at the local bike shop / car tyre shop (maybe)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;waterproof cover for a book&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;creative jewellery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike tube purse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;waterproof Tool roll&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cover a chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sandals for your feet (modern variant of the huarache or other name)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-12-19T00:46:50.140" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T00:46:50.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2013-03-20T08:34:44.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of good answers already - but one big disadvantage of disks is that has yet been mentioned is their ability to eject the front wheel when using a tradition QR axle. The torque generated on the axle (for a normal rear mounted disk caliper) is down - the same direction as the dropouts. Its been shown that even properly tightened axles can come loose - usually with large (200mm or greater) disks, but loose a QR can come undone very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, &quot;Lawyer Lugs&quot; are pretty much mandatory on Disk equipped front wheels (Unless a through axle is used). The problem with Lawyer Lugs is they somewhat defeat the advantages of a the QR, in that to remove the wheel, you have to unscrew the nuts quite  along way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: (Two years later): &#xA;Rather than a link provided earlier, an internet search for &quot;James Annan  disc brake quick release&quot;  will give plenty of answers and most recent discussions on the issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T22:30:19.853" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T22:30:19.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14895" CreationDate="2013-03-20T09:08:32.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I remember correctly Shimano recommends lacing with trailing spoke heads in (flat part out) for rear drive-side whereas Sheldon Brown recommends the opposite, so take the reasoning that sounds best to you and run with it. Ultimately it probably doesn't matter much, especially if your chain doesn't fall off to the inside which it shouldn't if everything is in proper adjustment.&lt;br&gt; I just looked at two sets of wheels that I have built which are nearly identical. On the older set I have drive-side trailing spokes with heads facing out, on the other set they are facing in. I have no recollection of why I made the change. I do not notice a difference and I haven't had problems out of either set. If I were going to build another set right now I would probably do trailing heads facing out, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;but as Sheldon Brown pointed out&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: This is not an important issue! There is a sizable minority of good wheelbuilders who prefer to go the other way around, and good wheels can be built either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T09:14:38.597" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T09:14:38.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14896" CreationDate="2013-03-20T09:41:32.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I already wrote in the comment, the tire looks ripped to me (as Rider_X suggests, that the bead has torn away). It would be helpful if the camera's focus was on the tire instead on the house behind. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are in a city, you can buy a new tire and replace it. Easy. But these kind of things sometimes happen when you are on the road, away from bike shops and services. If you don't have spare tire in that case, you may perform an emergency repair so that the tire and tube can hold for some time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://voices.yahoo.com/bike-skills-repair-torn-open-tire-8524921.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://voices.yahoo.com/bike-skills-repair-torn-open-tire-8524921.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to place something (the article suggest denim, but I've heard people using pieces of old worn out tire, without the bead of course) between the ripped tire and the tube, and then wrap them both tightly, using a duct tape, rope, wire, whatever comes in handy. Riding will not be pleasant, but it's better than pushing your bike with a flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T09:41:32.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14898" CreationDate="2013-03-20T11:58:41.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want a separate saddle clamp, that clamps round the top of the post and the rails of a standard saddle, something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Saddle-Clamp-Straight-Seatposts-Silver/dp/B00718WE7G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;this&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html#seatpost&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html#seatpost&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/seatposts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/seatposts.html&lt;/a&gt; (scroll down to 'Traditional &quot;pipe type&quot; seatposts, use with separate saddle clamp'.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T11:58:41.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14895" CreationDate="2013-03-20T12:48:32.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#side&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#side&lt;/a&gt; suggests changing for fixed gear and coaster brake hubs, which isn't quite the same thing as single speed or internally geared wheels. (All fixed gear and coaster brake hubs are single speed or internally geared, but the opposite isn't true.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Nexus hubs have coaster brake versions, but as far as I know the Alfine doesn't. So for the Alfine, it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T12:48:32.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9155" CreationDate="2013-03-20T13:39:38.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bumm.de/produkte/dynamo-scheinwerfer/lumotec-iq2-luxos.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bumm.de/produkte/dynamo-scheinwerfer/lumotec-iq2-luxos.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Light with an integrated USB socket for charging, but it's not clear from reviews how the USB charger and light will interact when using the output at the same time as the light once the cache battery is drained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bumm.de/produkte/e-werk-usb-werk/usb-werk.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bumm.de/produkte/e-werk-usb-werk/usb-werk.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(warns that light output will be reduced while charging)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycletourer.co.uk/cycletouring/electrogadgets.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cycletourer.co.uk/cycletouring/electrogadgets.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More options on &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2012/03/list-of-hub-dynamo-power-supplies-for-usb-devices/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2012/03/list-of-hub-dynamo-power-supplies-for-usb-devices/&lt;/a&gt; (but mostly chargers that can be used when not running a light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T13:39:38.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14936" CreationDate="2013-03-20T14:48:37.527" Score="2" ViewCount="2315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a beater commuter steel bicycle that is subject to all kinds of weather, abuse and a lots of scratches. Several hot-spots on the frame have appeared over the time where most of the damages and corrosion happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of protecting those spots by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;removing rust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;applying a layer of 2 component epoxy (have G-flex at hand) to seal the steel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after epoxy cures, wrap it with self adhesive silicon tape to protect epoxy from UV exposure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound like a good idea? Some better, cheaper, quicker, more durable solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T09:51:49.447" Title="Protecting beater bicycle from scratches and rust" Tags="&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14915" CreationDate="2013-03-20T15:14:00.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though it's a &quot;beater bike&quot;, I'm guessing you really want to keep it around for a while.  If that's the case, I believe the best protection for it would be to paint it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strip the frame down (take all the components off) and thoroughly wash it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do the job yourself, sand the frame down to remove any rust spots.  If you have too much rust and you think epoxy might be in order, you can do that - but I suggest being extremely cautious at that point.  If the rust incursion is that bad, you may very well have structural damage that could cause a nasty crash - or worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use &quot;Frame Saver&quot; and spray the inside surfaces of the frame down with a liberal coating while it has been disassembled.  Clean the surfaces again, Use rubbing alcohol to remove any oily deposits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a quality exterior paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively - almost any autobody shop that has a paint booth can paint the bike for your fairly cheaply.  They might even have sand blasting facilities/capabilities to make cleaning the metal easier.  If you don't care about the color - just have them paint it when they do a regular paint job - and it'll be even cheaper since they don't have to clean their paint guns for a tiny batch color job for the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller/independent shops will tend to be a lot more willing to work with you on a project like this.  The big shops tend to not be too friendly to &quot;side jobs&quot; like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had steel frames completely stripped via sandblasting, and professionally painted with powder coating, including two layers of protective clear finish, then baked in an oven for 2 hours.  The cost was $130.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6425" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T15:14:00.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2013-03-20T15:46:53.530" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using disc brakes on my Mountain, Cyclocross, and Road bikes for well over 10 years now.  Earlier disc brake versions certainly took a while to reach excellent, smooth, and modulated braking power levels that they currently enjoy. In that context, a poorly adjusted or designed disc brake vs. a well adjusted v-brake showed less performance capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in recent years (5+), the technology surrounding disc brakes has increased dramatically.  Particularly with hydraulic disc brake systems.  Hydraulic disc systems tend to have significantly more stopping power than any rim brake system I have used.  One other side effect of the additional stopping power is the ability to &quot;modulate&quot; that power much more smoothly.  You can control how much power you use a lot more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated above - there are different maintenance requirements with disc brake systems than with rim brake systems.  However, typically they are no more onerous to learn than other maintenance protocols for any bike part.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to hydraulic disc brake systems, there are mechanical versions which use your traditional cable to provide the lever to caliper clamping power on the disc rotor.  These systems have the advantage of being usable with shift/brake integrated lever systems (commonly found on road bikes or bikes with &quot;drop bars&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found the mechanical disc brake systems to not have as much power and modulation as hydraulic systems.  In addition, they tend to require a lot more maintenance/tweaking to keep them working perfectly smoothly.  The pad contact points are a lot more susceptible to making noises or dragging as they wear.  Mechanical systems clamp from only one side.  One pad is fixed in place, the other pad is pushed against the rotor slightly warping it into the fixed pad to provide the stopping power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic systems mostly have two separate calipers that push the pads from both side, (typically) providing stopping power from both sides, without warping the rotor (much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rim brake system tend to wear our the rim surface of the wheel if they are used in wet weather conditions.  As grit gets on the rim, and you brake, the grit essentially 'sands down' the rim over time.  Eventually you'll have to replace the rim as it is worn out.  The thinner the rim gets, the more likely that heat transferance from the braking action can affect the rubber of the tire itself, sometimes causing catastrophic failure (exploding tire).  This is fairly rare, and requires circumstances to be &quot;just right&quot; (i.e. well worn rims with thin side walls, possibly mis-adjusted brake pads, and long extended descents where the rider is &quot;dragging&quot; their brakes constantly causing heat buildup, tire casings that don't handle heat well, etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the maintenance requirements for rim brakes and hydraulic disc brakes tends to be about the same.  Over time, you may need to have the hydraulic brake lines &quot;bled&quot; to keep them in good performance.  However, most modern hydraulic brake systems typically don't need to be bled that often.  I find my mountain bike hydraulic systems to require it only after 18 to 24 months of riding (I typically ride about 3,000 miles on my MTB in that interval).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it's simply a matter of replacing pads as they wear out.  I do believe that disc brake pads will tend to wear out faster than rim brakes.  They're simply smaller in surface area, and have a lot more heat demands placed on them.  This is not true in foul weather riding conditions though - since wet/sandy conditions tend to affect rim brake pads a lot more than disc brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people will cite that disc brake systems are heavier.  This is true in general.  However, the majority of the 'extra weight' is non-rotational weight, which has a lot less effect on the ride quality or feeling of a bike.  Since the weight is at the axle area, the weight is fairly insignificant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rim brake systems require thick, heavy tracks for the pads to press against.  This requires that a rim brake wheel rim be significantly heavier than a disc brake rim.  All of that weight is rotational mass at the outermost edges of the wheel.  Any additional weight in this area is significantly increased in terms of the feeling/impact of that weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often see rims made for disc brake applications that average anywhere from 100 to 250 grams lighter in weight than their rim brake counterparts.  This is a significant amount of weight when it is at the worst possible location.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6425" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T15:46:53.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14904" CreationDate="2013-03-20T17:59:36.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checklist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I open my mouth with the helmet fully strapped? (is it too tight?);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I shake my head, does the helmet feel loose? (is it not tight enough?);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my forehead protected?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should not be much more than this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T17:59:36.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14903" CreationDate="2013-03-20T18:14:55.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Down vote notwithstanding, here are some thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Living in Boston and bicycle commuting both 4- and 3-season for 15 years, I'd say there at least four factors, governmental, NGO, population, and environmental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The NGO aspect would be - how many organizations there are, and how actively do they advocate on behalf of cyclists. In Boston/Cambridge/Somerville, and Massachusetts at large there are at least two, Mass Bike, and The Boston Cyclists Union. I'm not a &quot;joiner&quot; so it's possible there are others, say, Bikes-not-Bombs, that have a different agenda, but still, a degree of visibility, and advocacy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because Boston metro has a very significant student population, and conversely tight parking situation, many people ride bicycles. By way of sheer numbers, organizations have a significant number of folks they can represent, as well as interest and energy to recruit from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The governmental aspect would be, how interested in alternative transportation is the current state and local administration? Is there a &quot;Bike Czar&quot; appointed by the city that acts as liaison to facilitate communication between constituents and DOT, or the mayor's office. How interested is the city or state, in facilitating alternative modes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, how conducive to cycling is the geography, and the weather? The Dutch live on flat land in a maritime environment that tends to favor the widespread adoption of the bicycle. Combine those with the impossibility of parking and you have something of a perfect storm. Portland if I'm not mistaken, has a similar maritime weather pattern, as does Boston. An educated population, and short distances to major areas helps as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, Minneapolis is frigid and spread out, but there is a huge cycling community. They have a significant &quot;rails to trails&quot; movement to re-purpose unused arteries that run far and wide. Native infrastructure matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boulder has a larger hippy/ hipster/ outdoorsperson population that take to the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, sitting here pondering it, you get the sense there are many factors at play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride it like you stole it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6427" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T18:14:55.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14903" CreationDate="2013-03-20T19:38:11.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my list of things I look for in no particular order by the way. Perhaps # 3 leash laws are the most worrisome to me.  I've taken off riding in a new town and encountering a loose though friendly Lab or German Shepherd is enough to put my bike back on the car rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recent jury convicting a dump truck driver that killed a SOB (Senior on Bikes) rider and a judge that punished an SUV driver that harassed two roadies were big steps in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Pro biking civic / governmental aspects&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An aggressive bike path/bike lane  plan and agenda&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Published bicycle maps (free)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aggressive leash laws (dog control)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balance of commute and recreational trails and paths&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bicycle shop friendly city council&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Public transportation friendly to bikes with on-board racks and policy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actively seek bicycle races/rides through the town&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Police, courts and juries bicycle friendly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Active bicycle training program&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roads well marked for bicycles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dangerous choke points identified where possible and remediation when practical&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sponsors one or more bike to work days, weeks or months&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Natural&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balance of flat and hilly (&amp;lt;6% grades) and some extreme &amp;gt;6&amp;amp; Grades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Great scenery, mountains, hills, lakes, rivers and oceans&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If its flat or extreme, promote it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Commercial support&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike friendly restaurants and cafes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike racks secured to prevent theft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bicycle shops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outdoor and recreational stores have big bicycle sections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Towns that are bicycle unfriendly&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We feel it is inhumane to put a dog on a leash. . .&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No effort to accommodate anything on the road without an engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T11:59:40.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14896" CreationDate="2013-03-21T03:34:49.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've thrown away tires that were no where near as frightful as this one looks.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;ANY attempt at salvaging the tire or tube is ill advised.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also carefully inspect the wheel rim as well to see if there is any deformation, warping or splitting.  Loss of a tire while moving is a potential visit to the emergency room or the morgue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T03:34:49.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2013-03-21T07:51:56.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A nice thing about rim brakes (any type) versus disc (any type) is the fact that they provide a guide for quick truing your wheel without taking the wheel off and putting it on the stand.  Hanging my bike down on each end I can quickly true both wheels to perfection.   You can't do this with a disc.  And rim brakes do provide a generally cleaner look without a cable running down the fork or the rear stay.  And they generally are less weight and very easy to adjust.  Little things mean a lot and things do add up.  Oh yeah and the pads last crazy forever which is a nicety.  Fifty years of riding a LARGE number of bikes with all the kinds of brakes discussed in all conditions and my winner is a rim brake of high quality suited to your tire/riding terrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6432" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T07:51:56.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13545" CreationDate="2013-03-21T09:52:09.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After an extensive search, it seems there isn't a device anywhere near as simple that's still in production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T09:52:09.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2013-03-21T23:32:10.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just prepare properly the day before. Drink loads of fluid (water) and eat some carbs (pasta etc) with chicken  and vegetables. For breakfast, eat brown bread with loads of jam, some porridge and tea/coffee with sugar. 45 minutes before cycle eat a banana and you should be continuously  drinking (sipping) water. During the cycle eat a small bar (energy from chocolate) and some fluid. You will be grand and enjoy the cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6438" LastEditorUserId="1433" LastEditDate="2013-03-22T06:27:04.793" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T06:27:04.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-22T10:19:47.430" Score="4" ViewCount="2473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to buy the SG-3D55 internal gear hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/internal-gear-hubs/got-one-these-order-508390.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt;, the SL-3S35 is compatible. But what about the other 3 speed nexus shifters? I am finding it hard to find any documentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I am in the UK, so hoping to source the shifter for here if possible. I am already resigned to having to import the SG-3D55 from the US, as I can't find it in the UK/Europe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any specific or general wisdoms gratefully appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6440" LastEditorUserId="12749" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T09:07:48.807" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T18:57:47.330" Title="Shifters compatible with: SG-3D55 (Shimano Nexus 3 speed - disk brake - internal gear hub)" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14848" CreationDate="2013-03-22T13:59:44.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're planning on europe you should see See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.opencyclemap.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.opencyclemap.org/&lt;/a&gt; for national and regional routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T13:59:44.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-23T09:33:31.050" Score="10" ViewCount="5008" Body="&lt;p&gt;One month has passed since I fell on a mountain bike trip. The accident wasn't critical, it just left a huge scratch. The accident happened during a fast descent when my front tire hit a little crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that I don't feel confident riding descents anymore. My mind gets afraid and it impacts my riding. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6445" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-03-23T15:57:56.010" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T21:31:20.100" Title="Recovering confidence after a fall" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2013-03-23T13:28:22.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my commutes (most of my miles) I routinely use the rear brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often I simply want to scrub off some speed, not come to stop. In such cases, I use the rear brake only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the &quot;95 percent&quot; theory, but in practice, not the case at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a hard stop, yes, but even then, I use both brakes, especially if I am carrying a load in the panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6446" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T13:28:22.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14932" CreationDate="2013-03-23T16:14:18.797" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep riding.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It will take a little while to come back, but it will come back. Just don't push yourself too hard, as you will be tense and stiff and those things can lead to another accident. For all practical purposes your skill limit has decreased, so riding at your old limit is riding beyond your limit until you get past the mental block caused by the crash.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Try to analyze what happened in the crash and learn from it. Were you riding too fast for the trail or your skill level? Did you pick a bad line? Did you use your front brake at the wrong time? Replay it in slow motion in your head. Pick it apart and learn from the mistake. If you can find what the limiting factor was that caused the crash you can become a better rider because of it.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once again, just take your time and ease your way back into riding at the level you were at prior to the crash. Eventually the fear will dissipate, and if you've learned from the incident you will be a more skillful rider than you were before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T16:14:18.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14915" CreationDate="2013-03-23T16:59:54.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a beater bike then I think the 2 component epoxy and adhesive silicon tape is probably going overboard. Steel is very resilient compared to many other frame materials so little scratches, dents, and dings are unlikely to cause much harm. Obviously the downside to steel is that it's prone to oxidation (rust) and needs to be protected.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; Externally I would just use touchup paint as necessary. If it's a fresh scratch just slap the paint on there. If it's an older scratch use a fine grit sandpaper to spot sand the area and then apply the paint. That should be sufficient for maintaining the exterior of the frame.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The interior of the frame's tubes are a different story. They are unpainted and unprotected from the elements, and this can be bad for a beater bike as it probably sees more of the elements than your other bikes. For the interior I recommend that you get a can of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=jp%20weigles%20frame%20saver&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&amp;amp;aq=t&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla%3aen-US%3aofficial&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frame Saver&lt;/a&gt; and apply it to the inside of the tubes that make up the frame. After the propellant evaporates, Frame Saver leaves behind a residue that is very similar to the industrial packing grease that you fine on steel or iron parts when they are new. It shields raw steel from the air and moisture that can cause oxidation. It's worth noting that it also makes a horrible mess, so lay down a bunch of cardboard and apply the stuff outside. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Strip the bike down to the frame. Removing the fork, cranks, and seat tube are most important, but you'll be swinging the bike around in all different directions so strip the wheels off the fork and frame as well. Youll have access to the inside of the toptube and downtube through the seat tube and headtube, and bottom bracket. Spray liberal amounts of the stuff in all five mentioned tubes. If you don't have access to the seat stays and chain stays through the seat tube and bottom bracket there will be little breather holes- likely located at the dropouts. Spray plenty up in those four tubes as well. If the seat stay bridge (where your rear brake attaches) has the same little holes in it, then spray some in there, too, though it won't take much. If the bridge doesn't have holes to access it, dont worry; the framesaver will make its way in there via the seat stays. If there's a chainstay bridge, do the same thing you did with the seatstay bridge. Now you've squirted plenty of Frame Saver in every tube of the bike, right?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now, while the Frame saver is still flowing, you want to tilt and shake the frame in every direction to ensure that it covers the inside of all the tubes of the bike. While it's wet (before the propellant/thinner has evaporated) Frame Saver has very low surface tension and viscosity. Shaking and tilting the frame is crucial in achieving full coverage, but it will also flow on its own to help cover any spots that might have been missed. This process is somewhat time sensitive, though, as once the stuff sets it's not going anywhere. Some will leak back out and this is expected. Remember how I said you should do this over cardboard outside? Hope you were listening, because Frame Saver is not easy to clean up.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Let's not forget about your fork. You should be able to access the inside of the fork legs with the same little breather holes that were on the rear half of your bike. Follow the same procedure above. You might want to get the inside of the steerer tube as well, and the outside of the steerer should be coated in a light grease to boot. If you're feeling really paranoid about corrosion, you could even do the inside of your handlebars and seattube. Probably not necessary, though. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ok! Now let the frame sit overnight so that the stuff that needs to evaporate can do so and reassemble your bike. Between paint and Frame Saver you should have 99.9% coverage on the surfaces of your frame and fork that are exposed to air. Happy beating around town on your bike that is now impervious to the elements!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T16:59:54.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8170" CreationDate="2013-03-23T17:02:23.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For skewers, weight. That's it. Ti skewers will make your bike and your wallet lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T17:02:23.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14932" CreationDate="2013-03-23T19:20:49.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try riding within your level, wearing more body amour, and using well-maintained bikes with shock absorbers. Read the research about mountain bike injuries here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bmb.oxfordjournals.org/content/85/1/101.full&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bmb.oxfordjournals.org/content/85/1/101.full&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6419" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T19:20:49.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14932" CreationDate="2013-03-23T20:09:50.110" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Virtually every mountain biker with more than a few years under there belt has exactly the same story. In my case, a sideways fall down a bank put me in hospital with a fractured wrist, after putting my arm out to break the fall... - not as bad as some, but still required a bit of titanium scaffolding to fix. The other option I had was a head-plant into a tree, so the wrist damage was, in hind site, the better outcome...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats was 15 years ago - I still sh$# myself when riding along a narrow track with a big drop, but have no problems worrying about an &quot;over the bars&quot; falls and such things...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your prang was not too bad, you should be able to get over it - your subconscious mind has decided you might get hurt if you do that again, and is fighting against you doing it... You need to teach it that what you are doing is OK. The only way is to progressively build up from nearly identical, but easier situations.  It will take time and effort. In my case, it now knows I am in charge, but still reminds me..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, when riding, theres no middle ground - you are doing it, or not. Give you subconscious mind any wiggle room, and it will make you back out. Once you have decided you are going to ride a section, only think positive thoughts about how to do it. &quot;I need to ride the right track line&quot; - not &quot;Avoid the rut on the left&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The subconscious does not understand negatives. Words like &quot;Avoid&quot;, &quot;Don't&quot; and &quot;Not&quot; are ignored - A conscious thought &quot;I must not hit that rock&quot; becomes &quot;I must hit that rock&quot; to the subconscious- and guess what happens &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: Some people don't agree how I separate out conscious and subconscious, and don't accept that subconscious has as much influence on what we do, however, it works for me to understand what going on in my head.....) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T20:09:50.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-23T21:29:59.000" Score="6" ViewCount="2271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wanting to get a mirror for my bicycle, but the obvious mount points are already occupied (bar-end shifters, aero brake levers).  There is some appeal to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/752285/bike-peddler-take-a-look-mirror&quot;&gt;Take A Look&lt;/a&gt; or a helmet-mounted mirror, but I am concerned about safety. It seems that a mirror hanging out near my eye may have the propensity to be jammed into my eye or some other part of my face or head in the event of a fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens to a head-mounted mirror when the rider falls? Do they flex or break in some helpful way? Are my fears well-founded or overblown?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1616" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T09:27:52.493" Title="How safe are helmet- or glasses-mounted mirrors?" Tags="&lt;mirrors&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14940" CreationDate="2013-03-23T23:17:35.663" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that there's not much more concern of the mirror gouging your eye out than your glasses in the event of an accident. Ultimately I think if you did a risk/benefit assessment of having a mirror, you'd come out in the black.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For most cycling mirrors I'd say that the mounting point is going to give way before anything breaks and becomes dangerous. If you're truly concerned, have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14965/what-are-my-options-for-cycling-mirrors&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; where I tried to put together an exhaustive list of cycling mirror options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T01:46:28.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14804" CreationDate="2013-03-24T12:13:56.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answer is a pretty good list of differences, so I'm going to try to complement it with a fluffier, more hands-on answer that I think better describes the &lt;em&gt;experience&lt;/em&gt; of riding with hub gears. I switched from derailleur to a Shimano 8-speed hub two years ago. My daily commute was 8 km each way back then, in all weathers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that you don't have to &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; so much. I often call hub gears &quot;Homer Simpson gears&quot;: gear goes up, gear goes down, gear goes up, gear goes down. It's that simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With derailleur gears, while coasting on the approach to a junction, I would do one revolution of the pedals and change down, just in case I would have to stop at the junction. If I didn't stop, I'd have to change back up as I started pedalling out of the junction. Now I don't bother with that. If I &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; I have to stop (e.g. when coming up to a red light), I can change down while coasting; if I have to stop unexpectedly (e.g. at a pedestrian crossing, or a give-way with poor visibility), I can change down while I'm stationary. I never have to start in the wrong gear. It took me a month or two to get out of the habit of doing that one rev while changing down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did an organised charity ride last year. I could always tell when I was coming up to a hill, by the crunching noise of people leaving it too late to change down, and I sailed past them effortlessly. Hubs share the derailleur problem that they can't change gear while there's too much force on the pedal, but when changing gear on a derailleur you have to wait for the chain to completely locate on the new chainring, whereas it takes less than half a second for the hub to click into its new gear. This makes it much easier to ease off the pedal a little to make the change, even on the hill, and means you don't need to plan ahead for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People are often worried about not having so many gears on a hub as they did with derailleurs. I've found the range on mine pretty adequate. The bottom &quot;granny&quot; gear is great for getting stuck behind a family going up a narrow bridge. Once or twice while going downhill I've wished for an extra gear or two at the top, but I have to be really putting my foot down on the flat to even get into 7th. Mainly, of the eight gears I have, I use 4, 5, and 6 on the flat. I couldn't imagine finding the range inadequate unless you were often hauling a heavy trailer or live in a mountain range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's one difference bigger than these day-to-day things. As I say, I've had this bike for two years. It lives outside, and gets ridden in all weathers. It did about 5000 km in its first year; less in the second year as my commute is shorter now. It hasn't been back to the shop for a service yet, and I'm still on the original chain (which I clean and lube less often than I ought to). It still rides as smoothly today as the day I rode it home from the shop. In fact, it's smoother now, as the 4→5 change was a bit sticky for the first month. (Apparently you often get some slightly sharp edges when they're new, and it just takes a little use to smooth them off a bit.) The efficiency is still pretty good, though I'm sure the chain has stretched a bit, and the gear changes are perfect. I don't see the behaviour you get from derailleurs, where as the chain wears, the top and bottom gears become harder to get to. I don't have to keep adjusting the tension of the shifter cable, and the chain never comes off. And according to the man in the shop, he won't need to service the hub for another year yet. Add this to the reduced chain wear you get from never pulling the chain at an angle, and you get one reliable ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarise:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less shifting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less thinking when you do shift&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no getting stuck in the wrong gear, and you can drop whatever &quot;coping strategies&quot; you used to avoid that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less maintenance (but one big maintenance job every few years)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less flexibility for extreme loads and inclines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more consistent performance over long distances&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T12:13:56.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14940" CreationDate="2013-03-24T14:11:29.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Surly LHT has bar end shifters on drops like the OP.  I tried helmet mounted mirrors for a year and found them annoying creating blind spots in the front and finicky to adjust.  The blind spots made the helmet mount unsafe to some degree. I had to adjust the helmet mirror every time I rode and the view (perspective) was always a little different from before and I found that unsafe as well because I'd have to hunt around to see if there was a car in a blind spot.  I hoped over time I'd get comfortable with the helmet mount mirror but that never happened for me.  With the Bar End shifters, I didn't seem to have any alternative to the helmet mount so I put up with them.  Like the OP, I was originally concerned that somehow that thing that hung out in front of my eye might hurt me.  Several Google searches revealed no reported incidents so I believe my fears were unfounded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, I solved my problem by mounting a Mirrycle mirror the drop of my left side. The mirror has excellent vision with the same perspective every time and the blind spot is gone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastEditorUserId="6159" LastEditDate="2013-03-27T23:14:49.997" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T23:14:49.997" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2013-03-24T18:00:31.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my opinion that fixed geared bikes can almost never be as fast as a freewheel bicycle, unless the rider has a front brake to rely on for stopping power, instead of his or her legs. Fixed riders have to monitor their speed in order to gauge stopping time and gear up for the strain of slowing down by pedals. Because of this, a smaller gear is preferred on this type of bike. If the bike has a brake, a larger gear can be put on and the need to prepare to stop won't be as great, and neither will the strain. More fixed gear riders should consider this but because a lot of people are attracted to the total simplicity of the bike in the first place, it seems like a sellout to add a brake to your fixed gear. Seen as pussy-ass to some. Also wearing a helmet is pretty pussy-ass to these people too, but to me, going slow is most pussy-ass of all. Also in this area, riding fixed no brakes would require a monthly purchase of a replacement rear tire (on descents, stopping in time forces riders to skid the back wheel across the pavement which wears the tire to shreds). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride freewheel because my bottom bracket is low enough to cause my pedals to strike the ground on moderate to pronounced turns, and I do not wish to sacrifice speed. The single speed free wheel bike is gratifying in 52/16 or 15, but a smaller gear like 42/16 Is annoying. You don't go as fast. You have no reason then to refrain from going fixed and ditching the brakes. Where I live there are hills and on the larger gear I was forced to keep a grueling momentum to top the hills and draft on large vehicles. I am terribly fit because of it, and have been lucky enough to avoid lingering soreness and neck pain. It was fun, and incredibly fast. You had to be fast in that gear. It is a great setup. However, I got a job pulling a forty pound trailer and had to put a 42t chainring on my bike and a rear caliper. It's good for pulling. I can steam up the hills no problem, and the added caliper is a life saver for sure with all the weight. BUT, the rest of the time, the 150 miles a month I ride off the clock, is weird because the spinning is faster with less speed and more pain to my knees. Your legs become toned and fit for powerful, cadenced, pedal strokes in the high gear, and when yo move lower, the increased cadence becomes a challenge to cope with. I seems you're working harder to go slower. Pussy-ass indeed. So here's what I'd say, pick a gear you rock in, and keep in mind that if you go fixed: you compromise speed and safety by using a small gear without brakes: you compromise safety but not speed if you have a big gear and no brake: and with a big gear and a brake you compromise nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. the dropout direction on a bike doesn't matter. its the way the rear wheel is mounted onto the bicycle. bolts are safer, but too tight can put stress on the steel, so a quick release wheel with a chain tensioner like the surly tuggnut or the redline cross mountain version, is my ideal choice. Keep in mind that it is unsafe to add a derailleur mount chain tensioner on a fixed gear and a fixed gear can almost NEVER be successful if the wheel is mounted onto fork ends, as many high end race bikes have, without the magic gear. Which is extremely hard to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6455" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T18:00:31.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-24T18:14:36.213" Score="0" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help find some literature or some pictures of a 2 speed conversion which has worked? I ride a huge gear, but plan to bike cross country, and I want to put my smaller chain ring back on my crank to manually switch to for prolonged climbs in the Rockies, but none of the road rear derailleurs I've tried have successfully acted as a tensioner. The idea was to shift from chain ring to chain ring by hand, and the rear derailleur which I've fixed on the position I need for a good chain line, would take up the slack and apply pressure in both gears. It doesn't work. As the derailleur moves closer to its point of origin it loses tension and the chain skips horribly. Can anyone help me figure out how to make this work? Has anyone succeeded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6455" LastEditorUserId="8643" LastEditDate="2013-11-29T20:00:42.347" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T19:34:20.580" Title="Conversion question" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-24T20:15:43.590" Score="8" ViewCount="30850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now ride a 60cm SurlyLHT with chain rings at 26/36/48t. Can I replace with a smaller set at 22/32/46t (or similar combination) without having to replace the entire drive train - cassette, rear derailleur, front deraileur etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6457" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T18:44:11.260" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T13:04:29.737" Title="Can I replace chainrings without replacing the rest of the drive train?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14946" CreationDate="2013-03-24T20:42:10.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your biggest concern will be the front derailleur. Any front derailleur will have a maximum and minimum size for each chainring. You should be able to find what those minimums and maximums are in the manual for your derailleur. That said, the change you're making is relatively small and it's not likely that you'll have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second biggest concern will be the chain. The smaller rings will mean that there's more slack in your chain. You may be able to get away with it just fine, but you'll most likely have to remove a link or two for optimal performance. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=chain%20length&quot;&gt;Determining the correct chain length has been covered at length in multiple places on this site&lt;/a&gt;, so I won't go into it here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going from a bigger front chainring set to a smaller one isn't very likely to cause you problems in the rear. If you were going bigger, it could be a different story since there would be a chance that the derailleur wouldn't be able to take up the extra slack of the longer chain required for bigger rings. But again, not likely going from bigger rings to smaller ones. Especially with the relatively small change you're making. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T13:04:29.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14946" CreationDate="2013-03-24T20:54:02.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to go to 24/34/46 without having to do much other than maybe remove a link from the chain and maybe slide the front derailer down a smidge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to do 22/34/46 without replacing the cranks, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surly LHT specs: &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crank specs: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.andel.com.tw/products/products_show.php?language=_eng&amp;amp;pid=38&amp;amp;cid=18&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.andel.com.tw/products/products_show.php?language=_eng&amp;amp;pid=38&amp;amp;cid=18&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all LHT model years used the same crank, but they used similar 5-arm 110/74mm bcd cranks in the other years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice chart of the smallest size chainring possible with each 5-arm bcd size: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has 33mm as the smallest middle-chainring, not 34, so maybe it's possible to find a 33mm middle chainring... Seems to be rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's also possible to the cogset from 11/34t to a 12/36t cogset to get  your gear range lower. I can't find good specs on that rear derailer to be sure the 36t would work,though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any gear changes like this, work out what the extremes will be. How many teeth in the small/small gear combo, how many teeth in the big/big gear combo, and how big is that difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front derailer specs: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/sora/product.-code-FD-3403-F.-type-.fd_road.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/sora/product.-code-FD-3403-F.-type-.fd_road.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-03-24T21:00:15.787" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T21:00:15.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14946" CreationDate="2013-03-24T20:59:13.913" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is yes, you can just change the crankset without replacing the entire drive train however there are other considerations. Depends on if your changing rings out or replacing the set and cranks. Other considerations if doing a full replacement are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain line&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When selecting a new crank set you need to ensure it aligns with the current chainline of your bike. If you change the chain line you may not be able to use all of the gears on your rear cassette in all gears up front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom bracket&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to ensure that a new crankset will be compatible with your current BB spindle length and interface. (square, octo, isis, hollowtech etc.) If your BB has a lot of wear once you have the cranks off its not a bad idea to change the BB at the same time as they're not that big a cost. Also it's sometimes if you get a good deal on a crankset to get a matching BB as they're the cheaper item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain length&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to shorten the chain going to smaller rings if the derailleur doesn't  provide enough tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rear derailleur capacity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a problem when shifting to a smaller crankset but if going larger you would need to ensure that the rear derailleur would handle the additional cogs. There are tools online to help calculate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wear&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chain and rear cassette are showing signs of wear it's often wise to replace these at the same time as they will wear a new crankset faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain width&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are buying a new crankset it has to be appropriate for the number of gears on your bike, this is because chains are different widths to accommodate more gears on the rear cassette. The rest of the drive train is sized to fit the chain width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T22:25:56.103" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T22:25:56.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14940" CreationDate="2013-03-24T21:17:02.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a bar-end mounted mirror for about one high-mileage year in the past, and have for the last year switched to helmet mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will not consider the merit of handlebar vs. helmet mounted in detail, but I can say I would never have used the handlebar mounted one in the first place, if I knew how much, MUCH better, by so much far, the helmet mounted ones are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered your safety question some times, but honestly, in the event of a real fall with head hitting the ground, there are so much more sources of injury than the mirror (most of them are from the bike itself), that I prefer to just forget about it as a &quot;hypothetical, unfounded fear&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, my mirror is a cheap, round, flat glass mirror one, those you buy for one dollar, with two plastic hinges. A friend of mine &quot;convinced&quot; me to use it, and he attached the mirror himself, with zip ties, to drilled holes on the helmet cap. Here it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zj4CS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final result is ugly, I know, but it works incredibly well with no issues so far. And the helmet (the only one I have) is itself a beater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now regarding SAFETY, when I take a look at the picture you posted, and considering my current experience, I think:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That metal wire REALLY feels dangerous. It's a thin, penetrating METAL part instead of a blunt, bulky, round-tipped plastic shaft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mirror itself is a tiny piece of glass. It doesn't even have to shatter to fit inside the eye orbit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The whole system contains only very hard and damaging materials. No bulky plastic &quot;paddings&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important difference between &quot;mine&quot; and &quot;yours&quot; is that &quot;mine&quot; is a helmet mounted mirror, and &quot;yours&quot; is a glasses-mounted one. The former stays further from the eye itself, so it needs to have a wider glass to provide a good viewing angle. The glasses mounted one can be smaller, and needs to be lighter to be comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think each one is a matter of personal preference, and in either case the very real and sure benefits far outweight the hypothesized risk, but using a helmed-mounted mirror is helpful if you have one helmet but a lot of glasses, and I think it is better to have the extra weight supported by the whole helmet/head interface than only by the glasses/head interface (that is, only the nose and the ears).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T21:17:02.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2013-03-25T10:05:40.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider climbing a 15% grade when you are on a 60 mile quick spin, versus when you have completed 150 miles of a double century with 20,000 ft of climbing.  Or supposing you are on a 1200 brevet?  Any rider is going to face some distance hilly ride where it would be advantageous to have lower gears.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage of triples over compacts is that the changing between the gears is easier:  you have to move between more gears in the rear on a compact.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way I'm just estimating.  I'm about to put on a triple for a very hilly double century.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6461" LastEditorUserId="6461" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T10:21:34.860" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T10:21:34.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14945" CreationDate="2013-03-25T13:36:18.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try something like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecarson.com/2012/03/12/surly-dingle-speed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikecarson.com/2012/03/12/surly-dingle-speed/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://urbanvelo.org/surly-dingle-cog/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://urbanvelo.org/surly-dingle-cog/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the right chainrings it gives you two different gears with no need for a chain tensioner, so can even be used for a fixed gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(But without more details of your current setup, I've no idea why your derailleur isn't taking up enough slack, or doesn't have enough tension.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T13:36:18.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2013-03-25T16:17:16.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano make 2 types with the &lt;strong&gt;black ones (SH 51)&lt;/strong&gt; restricted to unclipping when you twist your foot in one direction only.  The &lt;strong&gt;silver cleats (SH 56)&lt;/strong&gt; allow unclipping by twisting your foot in either direction.  If you are new to SPDs I'd make sure to use the silver ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6464" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-03-25T19:53:59.517" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T19:53:59.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2013-03-25T19:21:25.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after a few years of riding with these cleats, I've learned a couple things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the tension pretty loose (I rarely pop out but it's still easy to get in/out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Twist the ankle so the heal swings outward to break loose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T19:21:25.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-25T20:04:07.900" Score="1" ViewCount="11842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use my front derailleur which is a tiagra on a 3x10 speed setup with a compact double crankset making it a 2x10 setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper procedure for setting up the triple chainring front derailleur as a 2x10 setup compared to setting up a standard double chainring setup? Will I be able to use limit screws to set limits properly for top and bottom ranges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T23:39:12.970" Title="How to setup triple front derailleur with a double crankset" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14960" CreationDate="2013-03-25T21:24:16.147" Score="4" ViewCount="9544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to upgrade my 3x9 Sora shifters to 3x10 105s.  However, looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/8657/3497&quot;&gt;Shimano Compatibility Chart&lt;/a&gt;, it appears to indicate that I'll have to replace my front and rear derailleurs in addition to the cassette, which I knew I'd have to replace.  But I'm not sure I'm reading that chart correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike currently has a Shimano Sora bottom pull front derailleur and a Shimano Tiagra rear derailleur.  Can I get by with just replacing the cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T23:01:46.833" Title="Upgrade Shimano Sora shifters to 105" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14959" CreationDate="2013-03-25T22:41:11.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posed a similar question (or at least a question which raises similar issues) on here a few months ago: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13294/upgrade-shimano-from-9-to-10-speed&quot;&gt;Moving tfrom Shimano 9- to Shimano 10- speed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is not the different Shimano ranges per se, its going from 9 to 10 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can imagine that the 10-speed shifters will be expecting a 10-speed cassette at the other end of the wire - these things are indexed after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other complication in going from a 9- to 10-speed cassette is the chain. You'd need a new, slimmer one. And unfortunately this means a new real derailleur too. Strictly speaking, this again knocks on to the front derailleur. And the chainrings. But as regards the front setup, I was advised that I should be able to get by with my existing setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you specifically want to go to 10-speed, you may have some luck doing what I did - jump over 105 altogether and head for the old Ultegra 6500 range.....which was 9-speed. I suspect if you could find shifters from this range, it would do the trick. Alternatively you could go not quite as far and upgrade to Tiagra - I believe the current Tiagra range is now 10-speed, but its not so long ago that it was 9-speed. (The bike I raised my question about was a 2011 model.) Obviously Ultegra will give you better quality but you'll still find Tiagra shifters a noticeable step up from Soras. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really do want to go to a 10-speed 105 setup, well I think I costed it as something like GBP400 or more...not a lot less than buying the whole 105 groupset (which can be bought as a single product). But I seem to remember the biggest single cost was the shifters, so take that as an indication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T23:01:46.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14958" CreationDate="2013-03-25T23:39:12.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with many things bike related, it might not meet the specs, but that doesn't mean that it won't work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some questions that will help answer the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you using friction or index shifting for the front?  If friction (such as bar-end shifters) you should be fine.  If indexed, you might have incompatibilities with cable pull, especially if you're trying to use the same shifters or switching between a road vs. MTB derailleur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the limit screws allow adjustment to the range of motion that you require?  If so, you might be OK, but it really depends on the number of teeth on your derailleur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you happen to already have the parts and have worked on bikes a bit in the past &quot;just try it&quot; usually works for me.  You might be pleasantly surprised.  If you have to buy the parts or pay for labor it might not be worth the trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Far more information on the topic can be found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6243" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T23:39:12.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-25T23:39:58.247" Score="0" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a small one that has me stumped. In a newspaper article where I live in New Zealand there is a picture of guy riding a cyclocross bike with a caption saying that he is mountain biking. I realised I don't know the verb for riding a CX bike, is it simply called cycling or mountain biking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T12:25:27.010" Title="What is the correct language for talking about cyclocross?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10244" CreationDate="2013-03-25T23:51:04.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The single most important thing to know about cycling in London is never ride on the left side of a turning large vehicle, especially an articulated lorry or bendy bus. Many of the cycling fatalities in London are cyclists who ride up the outside of a large vehicle trying to negotiate a corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really an important rule for cycling anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T23:51:04.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-26T00:43:27.813" Score="0" ViewCount="1330" Body="&lt;p&gt;This classic ride, (a hand-me-down, no less,) has served me well for more than a few years. The componentry is showing its age and the drivetrain really needs to be replaced, but I can find no specs on the BB threading or the rear fork width (if that's the term) so I can get the right upgrades. I'm planning to use this stunning contraption to commute to work, which combines mostly suburban-urban streets with a little dirt thrown in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me find specs on this wonderful ride so I can hit the road when the warm weather kicks in? Much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xa9ap.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Klein Mountain Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4979" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T00:41:13.797" Title="Early Klein Mountain Bike - need suggested component rebuild ideas" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14966" CreationDate="2013-03-26T01:42:19.790" Score="24" ViewCount="24016" Body="&lt;p&gt;What options are available in terms of types of cycling mirrors? Where all can I mount them and what are the advantages and disadvantages to each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T01:09:23.617" Title="What are my options for cycling mirrors?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;mirrors&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14965" CreationDate="2013-03-26T01:42:19.790" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle mirrors are going fall into two basic categories- the type that you mount somewhere on your bike and the type that you mount somewhere on your head. Both categories have their pros and cons, but many of them are subjective. A pro to one individual may be considered a con to the next. Within those two categories you have a variety of different options to choose from. Here's the breakdown of those that I am aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;On your head&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind with head mounted options is that they are always in your field of vision. You may consider this a pro, or you may consider it a con. On one hand you don't have to look off of your course of travel by much to view the mirror, on the other hand it can be distracting to always have it in your field of vision and can be awkward to focus on. Head mounted mirrors always look directly behind where your head is pointed. That means that they're not always pointed opposite your direction of travel, i.e. the road and traffic behind you. Depending on how far away from your head the mirror is, it can be difficult to get the mirror adjusted in such a way that your head does not obstruct your rear view or to where you are not looking off to an extreme angle to view the mirror. Mounting can be finicky. On the plus side they tend to be very light weight and tend to stay adjusted for the duration of your ride, and they are generally less obstructive than most bike mounted mirrors. Your options for head mounted mirrors are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Helmet mount&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNsh5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Helmet mounted mirror are typically affixed with an adhesive pad or with a clamp to the front-side of your helmet. Typically they will stick out a little further than other head mounted mirrors, which is a good thing. It allows you to more easily see around your own head and you do not have to look off to as extreme of an angle. For adhesive type mounts the downsides are that the adhesive mounting point is (or is supposed to be) permanent and can potentially damage the helmet if removed. For some helmets it can be difficult to find an adequately flat surface to attach the adhesive pad to. The adhesive mount, if not appropriately attached, can fall off. If properly attached the mounting point is, in theory, permanent, although typically the mirror and the arm are removable from most mounts should you not want to use the mirror. Some of the same types of problems can arise from the clamp style helmet mount mirrors. The clamp has the potential to damage the helmet- though it is unlikely if you use due caution- and there may not be an appropriate mounting point for many helmets. If not adequately attached, the clamp may loosen and fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Glasses frame mount&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aHi9W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Glasses frame mount mirrors are similar to helmet mount mirrors in many ways, but typically sit closer to your face. This can make it a little harder to see around your own head or cause you to have to view the mirror at a more extreme angle. Mounting is easy and they are not permanent. On the other hand, they will not fit all styles of glasses and many of the plastic models are prone to breaking. Metal framed models are available which are less prone to breakage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Glasses lens mount&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hxah5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Lens mount mirrors adhere to the inside of your glasses. They look great because onlookers can't tell that you are using a cycling mirror, and mirrors have a bit of a stigma attached to them, albeit undeserved. The downside to these mirrors are that depending on the shape of your glasses and the shape of your head, you might not be able to see anything with them besides your own face. It's also worth pointing out that if your require corrective lenses (not contacts) then this option is out by default. If this style of mirror works for you, you are likely in a fortunate minority. &#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;On your bike&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This category of mirror will be affixed somewhere to the front of your bike. They will not be in your field of view at all times, which depending on your preference may be mark for or against this category. You will have to take your eyes off from your course more so with a bike mounted mirror than with a head mounted mirror, and to varying degrees depending on where the mirror mounts. Bike mounted mirrors will be easier to look at since you can more easily focus on them with both eyes instead of largely just one as with head mounted mirrors. While riding in a straight line the mirror will always be pointed mostly behind you, but in turns they may point off to one side a little or a lot (the frame mounted mirror described below is the exception). Mounting points tend to be more secure than head mounted mirrors, however bike mounted mirrors have more of a propensity to stick out from the bike in some way. Hand in hand with that issue, bike mounted mirrors can be more of an obstruction than head mounted mirrors both in terms of getting in the way of your hands and in terms of getting knocked against things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Bar end mount (flat bar)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kULTH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;These mirrors have a plug that fits into the end of your handlebar to secure it in place. Many sit up higher than the bar itself, though some models are inline for a cleaner look and less obstruction of the hand(s). These mirrors are typically the easiest to view of the bike mounted mirrors due to their height and the distance out from the bike and rider's body. The other edge to the blade is that they are likely the easiest to knock into something, and depending on their shape they can get in the way. Some models will fit both flat bars and drop bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Bar end mount (drop bar)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kLhJN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;These mirrors work the same way bar end flat bar mirrors work and some models fit both bar styles. For the inline style as pictured above, you get some tradeoffs. The mirror is less obstructive and a little less likely to get bumped into things, but to view it you do have to take your eyes off the the road in front of you more so than with a mirror that sits up higher. Due to the fact that drop bars are narrower than typical flat bars you may end up looking at your leg or bike, especially when turning in the same direction as the side of the bike the mirror is mounted on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Hood mount (drop bar)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J5JPz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;There are a couple of different mounting options for this type of mirror- one for integrated shift/brake levers, and one for non integrated levers. Both manage to bring the mirror up higher and further away from the bike, giving you some of the advantages of a raised flat bar style mirror. For the non integrated style lever, these can be a good option if you have bar end shifters. The mirror will still be a little tighter in on the bike, and both types of mounting options run the risk of damaging the lever in the event of an impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Handlebar mount (clamp/strap style)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cLpIU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;These typically have a plastic clamp, or a rubber or velcro strap to affix them to a handlebar. They are an option if you have no other available mounting points on your handlebars. On the other hand, chances are if all other spots are taken, you will have a hard time finding a place where this type of mirror won't be in your way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Frame mount&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtXV0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;This is a somewhat unusual option that mounts directly to the frame of the bike. It will always look directly behind your direction of travel, regardless of where the bars are pointed, and it obviously won't take up any room on your handlebars. This may be a good option for time trial and triathlon bikes where mounting options on the bars are virtually nonexistent. The biggest problem with this kind of mirror is that it is going to be very difficult to see around your legs as it sits in so tight to the bike. I have not used this type of mirror, but I believe there could be a slight risk with some configurations of knocking against the mirror when out of the saddle and climbing steep ascents.&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt; &#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Keep in mind that you may or may not find that any of these issues actually affect you. Preference is going to play a huge part in your decision. Most cycling mirrors are cheap so if you're unsure of what will work best for you, buy a couple of different styles and try them while you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T01:09:23.617" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T01:09:23.617" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14962" CreationDate="2013-03-26T01:50:24.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Cycling.&quot;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Can't go wrong. No specific verb for &quot;cyclocrossing&quot; that I've ever heard. &quot;Racing&quot; when doing so, which is often when on a cyclocross bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T01:50:24.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14962" CreationDate="2013-03-26T12:25:27.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the terminology you like. If enough people agree and use the same terminology, then that will become the correct way to speak about it. When Shakespear needed words to express new ideas, he invented or re-interperted terms from other languages, creating neologisms as needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard people say Cross Riding, Cross Racing, Cyclocrossing, Crossing, Riding Cross, Racing Cross, Cross Biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T12:25:27.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-26T14:29:22.833" Score="1" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an online site where I can buy a derailleur hanger replacement for my GTS R5 road frame.&#xA;The frame is the one in the picture (&lt;a href=&quot;http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_0EL4iQdWrYE/TDLCN-kYeQI/AAAAAAAAAQI/JmNVEhIR5n0/s320/gts+r5.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_0EL4iQdWrYE/TDLCN-kYeQI/AAAAAAAAAQI/JmNVEhIR5n0/s320/gts+r5.JPG&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a derailer hanger (dropout 6) from amazon &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0028N1SDA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufacturing-Dropout-6-Derailleur-Hanger/dp/B0028N1SDA&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it's not the correct size/form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I google for &quot;GTS R5&quot; and some other alternatives but I can't find a reliable place where they sell this Derailleur Hanger replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5283" LastEditorUserId="5283" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T01:27:08.050" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T01:27:08.050" Title="Derailleur Hanger replacement for GTS R5 road bike frame" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14722" CreationDate="2013-03-26T20:23:52.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different hues of lenses have been well covered in existing answers, but light transmission hasn't been directly addressed. Lenses are characterized by how much visible light is transmitted through them. A dark lens has low light transmission, and a clear lens has high light transmission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Clear Lenses&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most clear safety lenses have light transmission in the 75% to 95% range. Lenses in the 75% range appear to be clear, but if you put them on, they reduce brightness by a small but noticeable amount. As Benzo mentioned, clear lenses provide physical protection and filter ultraviolet light, even though they don't filter much visible light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sunglasses&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sunglasses have lenses with light transmission in the 10% to 15% range, with some wavelengths filtered more aggressively than others. Other answers cover the usefulness of different colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Photochromic Sunglasses&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photochromic (a.k.a. photochromatic or transitions) lenses vary light transmission in response to ultraviolet light:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photochromic_lens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photochromic_lens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most have light transmission of about 10% or 20% in bright conditions and about 50% in dark conditions. Note that photochromic lenses darken in response to cold temperatures. Also, they don't darken in cars since windshields filter ultraviolet light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Low-Light Photochromic Sunglasses&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some photochromic lenses are designed for low light and have 75% light transmission (almost clear) in dark conditions. However, low light photochromic lenses have 20% or 25% light transmission in bright conditions&#xA;and don't get as dark as ordinary sunglasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T20:23:52.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14940" CreationDate="2013-03-27T00:13:21.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an eyeglass mounted mirror (I use the &quot;Take a look&quot; mirror, I highly recommend it), and the only time I was in an accident with it, it popped off my glasses without gouging me in the eye. Any up/down motion of the mirror is going to make it pop right off of the glasses, lateral side-to-side motion will likely just bend the metal shaft. If my face hits the ground with enough force to shatter the glass mirror, I'm already looking at some significant facial injuries so I'm not too concerned with the mirror making things worse -- small shards of glass sound only marginally worse than smacking my face on pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would take a freak accident to get it to shift around such that it would poke me in the eye given that the end of the mirror shaft is behind the bony part of my eye socket. Plus, the polycarbonate lenses of my sunglasses shield my entire eye plus a bit of wraparound to the side, giving me some protection from the mirror.  That doesn't mean that there's no risk at all, but I feel that the enhanced safety I get from the  mirror is worth the tradeoff of increased risk of  injury in an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried some helmet mounted mirrors but found that my helmet shifted around enough to be annoying, my sunglasses don't shift, so the eyeglass mounted mirror is always in exactly the same place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastEditorUserId="5459" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T18:09:17.660" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T18:09:17.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2013-03-27T01:18:17.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local bike shop and I'm sure most others have a large &quot;deraileur hanger&quot; wall chart from Wheels Manufacturing or other supplier. The 170 plus pictures are life sized. All that is required is a visual match. Wheels Manufacturing has a database on their website but doesn't list a GTS R5. I would either visit your local shop or contact Wheels Mfg.com customer service dept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T01:18:17.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14979" CreationDate="2013-03-27T14:49:01.160" Score="3" ViewCount="1628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fixed/fixed flip-flop hub and the lockring threads are stripped out on one side. Would I be ok to just thread a single-speed freewheel on that side and use it as a fixed/free hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T16:45:54.293" Title="Is it ok to use fixed gear threads for a freewheel?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;flip-flop-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14978" CreationDate="2013-03-27T16:14:59.520" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the thread fits, there would be no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nature of the mechanical stresses over the hub during traction would be identical (only there would not be the backpedal component, but that means less stress, not more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T16:14:59.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14940" CreationDate="2013-03-27T16:24:03.833" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never felt mirrors served much of a purpose. Mirrors seem like more of a distraction than anything else. Not only are they extremely small and probably have a very limited field of vision, but they also block that part of your forward vision field. Also, you should be comfortable moving around in your saddle, looking behind you, bunny hopping broken glass, fast stops, no hands. All those things contribute to what is exciting about riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never ridden with one and have never even felt that there was a blind spot somewhere to justify it. A simple head turn can satisfy my situational awareness concerns about what is behind me. Hearing is another thing that provides great feedback from your surroundings. You can feel cars behind you, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes and the cycling community are notorious for gimmicky gadgets. Take those bar-ends on MTB as a prime example. No pros use mirrors or bar-ends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling, at least to me, is just as much a mental workout as a physical one. I want to be super concentrated on the ride. I just feel a mirror would take away from that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T16:24:03.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14978" CreationDate="2013-03-27T16:45:54.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah it will work without issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humans would have to generate far more torque than we are capable of to actually pull the threads off of the hub. If you think about it, if it's enough threads for a track cog then there's no reason it wouldn't be enough for a freewheel. Due to the smaller amount of engagement on a fixed thread the mechanical stresses would be slightly different but once again not enough to matter for our power output. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can tell you that I've run a couple of setups like this for years, as have many others, with no issue on any of them related to the topic at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T16:45:54.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-27T16:58:01.053" Score="1" ViewCount="2570" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Dahon foldable bike makes a huge noise whenever I fold the frame and unfold it. I tried spraying a lubricant into the joint. I do not know if the problem is continuing because the lubricant went around the joint and didn't enter it, or because I used the wrong lubricant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had problems with the fold across the frame with their Dahon bikes? How did you lubricate this fold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6419" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-03-27T18:12:25.947" LastActivityDate="2019-10-05T03:04:34.837" Title="How to lubricate noisy joint on Dahon foldable bike?" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14982" CreationDate="2013-03-27T17:33:27.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you used the wrong lubricant depends a lot on just which lubricant you used...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large load bearing joint like that deserves some teflon grease or some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/785409&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pedro's grease&lt;/a&gt;, I don't think regular lubricant is going to cut it here. Head to your LBS and ask what type of grease they have for you and how much to apply ( it shouldn't take much ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T17:41:52.453" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T17:41:52.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15015" CreationDate="2013-03-27T17:59:18.927" Score="0" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to replace the chainrings on my Cannondale Road tandem. The crankset is a Truvativ Elita Tandem (52-39 10 speed big/middle ring). The new rings are Shimano 6603 52-39 rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swapped out the rings without issue. I've also replaced the cassette and drive chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain runs fine in the big ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem shows up with the chain on the middle ring and on the three smallest cogs of the cassette. In those gears, the chain skips frequently. It appears to try to jump up to the big ring, then falls back down, a couple of teeth back on the middle ring. It is skipping more than once per chain cycle, which I think rules out a problem with the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watching the chain closely it appears what is happening is that the chain is catching on the little shifting helper nubs on the inside of the big chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not the derailleur causing the chain to shift. I've made sure the derailleur is not touching the chain. The same thing also happens on the bottom of the chainring if I backpedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reasons these rings would be a problem on this crankset? Any other things to try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6475" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T03:59:47.853" Title="Shimano Ultegra chaninrings on Truvativ Elita Tandem crank" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-27T18:03:51.913" Score="4" ViewCount="2478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking on converting my Sram transmission 2x10 to 1x10, this is with a single chain ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest doubt is how to prevent cross chaining, do I need to get a special chain or how do I prevent the excessive wear out and grainy feeling when I'm in the biggest cassette ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6476" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T09:28:25.843" Title="How to: Sram 2x10 to 1x10" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14985" CreationDate="2013-03-27T18:25:26.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not really a special chain for this, and probably not much you can do about it anyway, apart from the usual drivetrain maintenance and monitoring. Having only a single ring will remove one component of cross-chain wear (rubbing on the inside of the outer ring when the chain is in the inner ring and an outer rear cog).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're able, use a crankset that is specifically designed for a single chainring as opposed to simply dropping rings from a double or triple. That will optimally position the chain between the extremes and reduce the chain angle, thus reducing wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T18:25:26.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14985" CreationDate="2013-03-27T19:03:53.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a mountain bike, you could use a chain guide like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222377971/463/MRP-S4-Chain-Guide-32-36t.html?gclid=CPugqJjKnbYCFa9aMgod7H0A6A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. The rollers keep the chain aligned on the chain ring at all times and the rear provides tension as it normally would. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUCr2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MRPS4 Chain Guide 32-36t&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB: I'm not necessarily recommending this one in particular, just it or something like it. I have no experience with this particular model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if they make anything comparable for road setups. I wasn't able to find anything with a quick Googling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T05:57:27.033" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T05:57:27.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-03-27T19:11:09.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fortunately I haven't had much practical experience with falling, but I'd always been told to stay clipped in, hold on to the handlebars and land on your side. In my single bike accident I did this and came out mostly unscathed, with a few minor scrapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were willing to put in the practice and teach my body to fall, there are probably more effective things to do, but without lots of practice and some muscle memory using the right form, I don't think I'm going to be able to do anything fancy. WHen I had my bike accident, I didn't have time to think about what to do, I just fell and I don't recall making any conscious effort to hold on and fall, it just came naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an article that advocates the hold on and fall technique:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikenoob.com/2011/04/17/youre-going-to-fall-heres-how/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bikenoob.com/2011/04/17/youre-going-to-fall-heres-how/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T19:11:09.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-27T20:48:17.143" Score="2" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm going out in the evening and don't want to carry a big pannier bag or rucksack, I keep my lights and whatever else in a small 'man-bag'. It's like a smaller version of a messenger bag: about 20 x 15 cm on a shoulder strap. I try to keep it towards my back rather than under my arm, to stop it swinging around, but invariably it slides out (especially on right-hand bends) and towards my front. If I leave it, it dangles under my chest and rubs on my knees as I pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to keep it in place? I've tried shortening and lengthening the strap, and I've used it nearly empty or quite heavy, and it doesn't seem to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2017-12-02T15:30:31.433" Title="How to keep my manbag in place" Tags="&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-27T20:49:14.493" Score="6" ViewCount="6870" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take a regular, &quot;classic&quot; road chainring (130bcd, five arms), you have five possible positions to assemple it in the crank arm. This can even be used to &quot;rotate&quot; between different positions over the chainring lifetime and get a more homogeneous teeth wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with elliptical chainrings, there should be only ONE position, shouldn't it? I mean, it was designed to have the larger chainring radius in a given position, so the question is: which position was it designed to work best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aditional question: would it be possible/wise to &quot;tune&quot; the performance for a given riding style, possibly going &quot;against&quot; what the manufacturer designed? It looks like RotoR and Biopace have different theories about that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2013-03-27T21:22:23.177" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T17:22:03.167" Title="What's the correct position to assemble eliptic (Biopace, Rotor, etc) chainrings?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14989" CreationDate="2013-03-27T21:30:37.163" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of this video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/41982043&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://vimeo.com/41982043&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it looks like this bike messenger has an extra strap for his bag that comes up under his left arm to stabilize his load.  Looks pretty neat, like it can be easily unsnapped to get the normal messenger bag access, and possibly be DIY-able.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T21:30:37.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14990" CreationDate="2013-03-27T21:30:40.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;IIRC, there are at least 3 conflicting theories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rings should be oriented to extract the maximum energy from the most powerful part of the stroke (from roughly 3-oclock to 6-oclock, viewed from the right).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rings should be oriented to maintain a (relatively) constant forward force/velocity, despite the change in leg force through the rotation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rings should be oriented to maintain &quot;smooth&quot; leg motion.  (Whatever that means.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) would have the largest diameter parallel to the cranks, (2) at right angles, (3) somewhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:  I have 1 and 2 backwards -- see jae's answer on that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-06-26T00:08:04.687" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T00:08:04.687" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14996" CreationDate="2013-03-27T21:34:51.350" Score="1" ViewCount="7297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 53 and for the past year have been pushing it slightly.  Have always been careful to not push it too hard, but yesterday I got a mild pull in my right hamstring.  Just a slight soreness right behind the knee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I keep riding, 5-10 miles a day, at an easier pace without worsening it, or should I stop riding until I can't feel it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T18:40:04.687" Title="Minor hamstring pull, can I keep going at easy pace?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14964" CreationDate="2013-03-27T22:57:41.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're going to have to pore over photos and Klein fan-sites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldklein.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;oldklein.com&lt;/a&gt; to find the specs, answering one question at a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the BB, I believe they were press-fit bearings, in press-fit cups (like an old BMX), so you might have to remove them, measure them, and then approach an engineering supplies shop for replacements. Bearings are surprisingly universal so don't be put-off too easily by people saying &quot;ah they are proprietary Klein bearings, forged by Klein faeries from Klein precious metals&quot;.. they are probably available!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear hub width can be measured easily by you, it's probably 135mm but that's a guess. Things like cranks will be square taper LX types, maybe something oddly 90's like bio-pace oval rings :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't guess the model, but I don't remember the Pulse or Attitude havign internal top cable routing like that, so is it an Adroit? If so, I'm pretty sure they aren't the original forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know how you get on! Lovely bike, I lusted after Kleins when I was 15!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T22:57:41.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14993" CreationDate="2013-03-27T23:31:41.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, your body will tell you the answer to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what I can say is that I had a problem with one of my knees, right where you say, for a couple of years all told. I cycled all the while, and did nothing about it for a long time (put it down to getting old). However I eventually went to see a physio and was very happy with the results - she prescribed a bunch of exercises to keep the muscles loose. Result was that the pain was relieved and that I didn't need to stop cycling at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still comes back from time to time but I know how to deal with it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know physio can be expensive but in my experience it was very worthwhile - and it only took two visits. I ended up feeling a bit of a fool for waiting so long to make an appointment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And let's face it 10 miles is not a lot. I'm making a slight assumption about your fitness here, but you shouldn't be feeling anything after that kind of distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T23:31:41.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14993" CreationDate="2013-03-27T23:35:31.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably best to see a doc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it would probably work to lay off for 3-4 days (at least until you can gently cycle without immediate pain), then start up again, being careful to limit the stress on the area.  If your pain level stays low then SLOWLY work up, otherwise back off or stop (and see the doc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably find some stretches (from a PT or maybe on the web) to &quot;balance&quot; the muscles in the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T23:35:31.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14989" CreationDate="2013-03-28T01:56:17.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of adding an additional stabilizing strap as suggested by @obelia, you could wear the bag like a fanny pack, around your waist.  I'm a big fan of this solution, and I proudly sport my fanny pack (or waist bag/ hip bag) on the regular.  In addition to solving your over-the-shoulder-sliding dilemma, it also has the added advantages of 1) no sweaty back, and 2) no uneven wait distribution on your shoulders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6480" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T01:56:17.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14985" CreationDate="2013-03-28T09:28:25.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To keep the chainline as central as possible, it might be best to go with a tripple crank and use the center position for your chain ring and the outer for a bash guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single speed crank has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html#standards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wider chainline&lt;/a&gt; and is biased towards the outside/smallest cog in the casette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've just built a 1x9 with Stylo 1.1 cranks and SRAM X0 casette / derailler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No dropped chains yet, with just the bash guard, and it's very smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T09:28:25.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14982" CreationDate="2013-03-28T14:15:08.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For similar things on cars I use white lithium grease (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000HBNV58&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this stuff on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;)—it is a good lubricant and sticks around the joint that you apply it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any similar thick grease should work for this joint, but the crucial thing is getting it into the right place.  Taking the joint apart and applying grease to the mating surfaces is the best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T14:15:08.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2013-03-28T15:11:36.230" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I did commute I would use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kelty.com/p-264-map-3500.aspx?category=backpacks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kelty backpack&lt;/a&gt;. I was never concerned with the sweaty back thing because I was lucky enough to have showers and a locker at work. If I needed to stay clean the sweaty back would be a real concern of mine and then I would opt for panniers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The messenger bag thing is such a fad. Don't buy into it. It is not functional like a backpack or panniers. The people who use them want people to see them. It's a fashion statement on par with skinny jeans and thin mustaches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T15:11:36.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14993" CreationDate="2013-03-28T15:16:17.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would take some Motrin. Lay off riding for a few days. Go for gental walks around home. Eat right, drink plenty of water. Then get back on my bike and make a conscious effort to &lt;em&gt;NOT&lt;/em&gt; push it for a week or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not go to the doctor. This injury is common enough to see how others have treated it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T15:16:17.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14989" CreationDate="2013-03-28T15:19:11.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leave it at home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those bags are such a pain and not worth the effort. There are plenty of cool looking backpacks out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T15:19:11.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14932" CreationDate="2013-03-28T15:23:22.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Falling is part of mountain biking. That is what makes it thrilling. Another often overlooked aspect of MTB is the mental concentration it takes. You should be mentally fatigued after a cool ride, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone falls, sometimes it is a bad one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get back up. Try it again. Remember why you think it is fun in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T15:23:22.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14823" CreationDate="2013-03-28T15:37:23.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Simple Green. Any degreaser will work. I would use Dawn if I could squirt it out of a spray bottle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I come from an industry where cleaning dirty greasy parts is part of our daily routine. The best degreasers were Dawn and Simple Green. I think a lot of people in similar industries will tell you the same. For one thing, people who buy the little drip bottles of degreaser treat it like it is liquid gold and use it so sparingly it is ineffective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I squirt the hell out of my chain and cassette. I have a chain cleaner that straps over the chain and allows me to run the chain through a series of brushes. Those cleaners are popular enough. When I upgrade I am going to get the one that connects to the deraileur and holds steady. I also save my old toothbrushes and finish the job right. I rinse and repeat until my drive train is oil-free. I also work the links to feel for any grit in there. BTW, perfect time to inspect everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a simple lube, Tri-Flo. All the wet and dry stuff is part of the cycling fad and gimmicks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I clean my drive train at least weekly if not after each ride. The whole process takes me about :15 and I have to schlep the gear up and down steps. Our bikes are expensive and important to us. I don't want to just go out and buy new stuff for my bike because they were neglected. Nor do I want to get stranded on the trail over a chain that I didn't take care of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clean chain ( and drivetrain) is the difference between someone who loves riding and someone who &lt;em&gt;says&lt;/em&gt; they love riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T15:37:23.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-28T17:47:30.460" Score="8" ViewCount="1396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am doing a cycle tour of Japan starting from Fukuoka and ending in Tokyo. I will be flying with the bike and as my start and end points differ I will not have the opportunity to use a box (unless anyone has any ideas?). I will most likely use one of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctcshop.org.uk/ctc-plastic-bike-bag/&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; bags and I have been told by the airline that nothing is necessary by way of packing the bike but I would naturally like to see my bike in one piece at the other end. The bike is a Specialized Tricross with disc brakes. Does anyone have any pointers as to the safest way to package something like this. I think I will definitely take the rear dérailleur off and wrap bubble wrap along the length of the bike to protect the wheels, pedals etc but other than that I'm not sure what lengths to go to. Does anybody have any experience or ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4987" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T15:59:29.050" Title="Packaging a bike for flying with a bike bag" Tags="&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15009" CreationDate="2013-03-28T19:35:22.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I flew from UK to USA with my bike in one of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-elsted-wheeled-bike-bag/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-elsted-wheeled-bike-bag/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see it is much more padded than your option which, by the way, is a &lt;em&gt;terrible&lt;/em&gt; idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bag had padding around the front and back and the way it was packed meant that you could use the bike wheels as extra protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They still managed to completely destroy the rear mech. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to use a proper box &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/b-w-bike-box/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/b-w-bike-box/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or if you are to use a bag like mine do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Pack as much clothes as you can through the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Place a helmet between the front forks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Remove the rear mech and hangar that connects it and place a wooden block or spare hub between the rear frame stays. &amp;lt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; dont even think about not doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Travelling with a bag such as this has one unexpected advantage: you can get round weight restrictions on most airlines; they dont weigh the bag because it is 'outsized' so you can pretty much pack everything into it and have no other luggage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5691" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T19:35:22.007" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14989" CreationDate="2013-03-28T22:55:20.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's an over the shoulder bag with no stabilizing strap coming up from under your other arm, it's not a suitable bag for carrying while riding a bike. You could always go the DIY approach and attach such a strap yourself, but if you'd rather not then use a different bag that's more suitable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T22:55:20.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15009" CreationDate="2013-03-28T23:22:40.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar long-range trip. I was a member of a local bike group and asked them if they, as a part of our membership, owned and lent bike luggage to members. They said they didn't have any but that it was a good idea. Maybe other bike clubs around your town might have luggage that you could rent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to try bike shops and see if they have any shipping boxes. I get boxes from my LBS to ship eBay parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you explored shipping it to yourself or to your hotel or a friend? There is something scary about shipping a super expensive bike in a soft bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be not to do it. I don't think bubble wrap would help. I imagine a suit case sitting on spokes and it makes me cringe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T23:22:40.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14984" CreationDate="2013-03-28T23:23:09.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say for sure if the chainrings work on that crank in your particular configuration. It sounds like they should.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Keep in mind that road triples are inherently troublesome (though some might disagree with me) and require a little more mucking with to get adjusted. If your front shifter doesn't have trim/half shifts between full shifts, you may need to let out the cable on your front derailleur a little and actually let the chain drag slightly against the cage when in those extreme gears on the cassette. This will keep the chain off of the shifting pins of the big chain ring. Not real awesome but it might be the best you can get away with on your current setup.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It also sounds like your chainline is not optimal. Are there any spacers between the bottom bracket shell and the outboard bearing cups? If so, you may need to move one to the drive side. If not, &lt;em&gt;don't add them&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Worst case you may need to go back to Truvativ rings. Hard to say for sure as it's always difficult to diagnose bikes over the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-03-29T14:38:18.230" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T14:38:18.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15021" CreationDate="2013-03-28T23:26:56.017" Score="2" ViewCount="11625" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when I set out on a ride I will get the absolute worst foot pain. It is like a cramp in my arches on both feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering where exactly the center of the pedal should fall in relation to my foot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-03-29T12:54:54.857" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T15:49:34.360" Title="Painful Feet: Might be related to pedal-foot positioning" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15009" CreationDate="2013-03-28T23:33:56.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What?? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardcase, hardcase, hardcase!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike is not going to fare well going most of half way around the world in nothing more than a plastic bag. Please believe me. Don't ruin your tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some shops rent hard cases. Call around and see what you can find. Ask your friends. Ask local clubs. Look for a new or used one, buy it, and sell it when you're done. &lt;strong&gt;Ship the empty case to your endpoint.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that matter, you'll probably be better off- both in terms of how the bike is treated and how much it costs you- if you pack the bike and ship it ahead of time. Just make arrangements with family/friends/local shop to receive it. Get it insured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't ship your bike in a plastic bag. If you don't heed my warning, please post pics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T23:33:56.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14848" CreationDate="2013-03-28T23:35:15.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have left all of my navigation needs to my iPhone5. I like the 'one-device' scenario. For my longer distance stuff I am starting to get into cue sheets. I think mapmyride.com has them available when you make a map. Cue sheets have distance and name of next turn but also how long until the turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My iPhone does all of that so I don't know how much you want to fiddle with on the bike ride. A mounted smart phone with scrolling cue sheets is easier to read than a map. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T23:35:15.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2013-03-28T23:42:30.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surfers here in San Diego carry their boards to the beach with this little side or rear-mounted rack on their beach cruisers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QDyEK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QDyEK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ds6TH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ds6TH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-01-23T00:40:28.130" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T00:40:28.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14636" CreationDate="2013-03-28T23:50:55.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I clean my stuff with Simple Green. Rinse. Simple Green. Rinse until clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use WD-40 if I were you though. I am not sure about the chemistry behind it but it is not a degreaser and there are plenty of other better options out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use grease either. Use a light oil. And remove the excess. I keep an old toothbrush around to brush in all of the oil to make sure I have all the little pieces coated then wipe off any excess. Anything dripping or about to form drips is excess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With grease and excess oil comes accumulation of dirt which is abrasive. By not using grease with is sticky and wiping excess oil you are effectively limiting the abrasives that stick to your chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not super sure of what you mean by 'Dry Lube' I think you mean either a Teflon based lube or lube that is meant for dry conditions. I have used Teflon-based stuff before and it was a pink, waxy mess. That could just be the brand though. All the bike shops around me use Tri-Flo. Thats what I use. I have a small bottle that has lasted for years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T23:50:55.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15016" CreationDate="2013-03-29T02:51:16.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely open to debate. Steve Hogg has some good information about cleat position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/04/power-to-the-pedal-cleat-position/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/04/power-to-the-pedal-cleat-position/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and arch supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/02/foot-correction-part-1-arch-support/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/blog/2011/02/foot-correction-part-1-arch-support/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suffered from something called hot foot and using corrective insoles relieved me of all pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T02:51:16.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15022" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-03-29T04:07:50.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is that the rider can remove the rear wheel, turn it around, and have a different gear in the rear without the aid of freewheel or lockring removal tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common type of flip-flop hub is a fixed/free hub; that is, a fixed-gear cog on one side and a freewheel on the other. Less common are fixed/fixed and free/free versions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-03-29T15:37:39.573" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T15:37:39.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15023" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-03-29T04:07:50.030" Score="0" Body="A hub with threads on both sides so that the wheel can be reversed for different gearing options." OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-03-29T15:37:29.607" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T15:37:29.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15083" CreationDate="2013-03-29T04:43:06.850" Score="6" ViewCount="39035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an aluminum single-speed frame that was marketed as a fixie. I'm wanting to convert it to a single-speed commuter. (I'm getting older and the fixie doesn't agree with my knees anymore.) It has enough clearance in the rear for 700x35 tires. It has a brake bridge but it doesn't have posts to mount v-brakes or cantilevers. Is there any kind of adapter that could make that work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-03-29T14:39:23.767" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T10:03:14.130" Title="Is there any kind of adapter to mount v-brakes or cantilevers to a frame that's not designed to accommodate them?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15016" CreationDate="2013-03-29T05:39:25.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone I've ever known and everything I've ever read has stated that the ball of your foot should be right on the pedal spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T05:39:25.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15016" CreationDate="2013-03-29T12:49:21.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you either have very high or collapsed arches and the arch support in your shoes is not enough or too much. In other words you're on an extreme end of the spectrum in terms of arch height. Depending on how much support is built into the last (the lower portion) of the shoe, you may be able to alleviate the problem by replacing the inserts that came with the shoes. Some companies make moldable supports that will set you back quite a few dollars/pounds/whateveryourcurrency- I think they're a bunch of crap, but that's a different conversation. You can also get non-moldable inserts with varying degrees of arch support that are considerably less expensive and more likely to correct the issue at hand. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftr/shoes/equipsparepartsshoes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized&lt;/a&gt; makes some very nice ones, as do other companies. A dealer should be able to fit you to the appropriate pair. If the last of your shoe is just built really high in the arch and you have collapsed arches, there's not much you can do except buy new shoes. Once again, a dealer worth its salt should be able to help you along.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Regarding cleat position, that's a factor that tends to play into foot and toe numbness more than arch pain. That doesn't mean it's not worth playing with a little though. Lining up the ball of your foot with the pedal spindle is a good starting point. Moving the cleat forward on the shoe is very rarely a good idea for normal cycling activities. Typically you'll want to move the cleat back (towards your heel) if you're having pain or numbness issues. Once again, I think it's unlikely that you'll get much benefit from playing with cleat position if you're having arch problems, unless perhaps you've got your cleats slammed all the way forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T12:49:21.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14993" CreationDate="2013-03-29T14:17:24.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to my physical therapist, putting ice packs on the muscle area in pain is the recommended treatment. A large bag of frozen corn or peas secured with an Ace bandage does the trick.  Do it for 15 minutes every hour for a couple of hours, be careful about longer times as frostbite is possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay off the leg as much as possible for a couple of days (length of time depending upon whether you have a class 1, 2 or 3 pull). Google Hamstring stretches and find a U-Tube showing how to do them properly. Stretches are the recommended way to recover and regain  your mobility.  If it hurts don't do it, muscle pulls need rest (time), ice and stretches to heal properly. It has been my experience that treating a muscle pull like a charley horse can make things much worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ice and stretching and you should be able to ride flat land in a week or so unless you have a class 3 and you won't even think about your bike. You will be following your doctors orders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T14:17:24.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-03-29T15:24:32.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This cannot be taught. No matter how much theoretical advice you seek and how much you think about it, you'll never learn how to fall if you don't fall often, especially at a young age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After years of BMXing I think that one needs 10-100 falls to start becoming better at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T15:24:32.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15024" CreationDate="2013-03-29T15:28:12.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not think anything bolted on could be good enough. Since it is aluminum frame, brazing or welding the bosses would also be complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But instead of replacing the whole frame, you might just change front fork with one that has bosses. That way on front where it makes more difference you would have V-brake, and on the rear you could have long reach caliper brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T15:28:12.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15024" CreationDate="2013-03-29T15:39:24.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There used to be castings that were designed to fit over existing brake studs and stiffen frames that had too much side-to-side flex for the cantis to be effective.  Don't know if they could be adapted to your purpose, though, and don't know if they're still available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T15:39:24.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15016" CreationDate="2013-03-29T15:49:34.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have stiff-soled cycling shoes, you give up the ability to flex the shoe at the metatarsals: you need this stiffness to transfer the power to your pedals. This isn't a happy behavior for the health of your feet. Regardless of where the cleat is positioned -- and you should get a professional fit to address that interface -- your feet are trapped in a non-flexing container, and they really really want to flex and move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your pain is centered on your metatarsals, or if your pain is like a &quot;hot foot&quot; in front of your arch, then the first thing to do is swap out the stock footbed, which is likely a cheap flattish cardboardy thing, with a more expensive &quot;engineered&quot; footbed. Specifically, you want a better arch support, but more importantly you want a metatarsal &quot;button&quot;, which is a little bump positioned underneath where your foot &quot;knuckles would be. This button allows your toes to flex around the bump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking from 10+ years of using stiff Sidis, going with the aftermarket footbeds (I use Specialized body geometry footbeds) makes a big difference. When my feet start to hurt, I can tell it's time to replace the footbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6494" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T15:49:34.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2013-03-29T16:29:45.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fallbrooktech.com/cycling/harmony&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nuvinci Harmony&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It uses the Nuvinci N360 CVP hub, which is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NuVinci_Continuously_Variable_Transmission&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;continuously variable transmission&lt;/a&gt;, meaning there are no shift points. The Harmony controller changes the ratio based on cadence, or it can be adjusted manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5669" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2018-04-23T12:56:20.217" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T12:56:20.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-29T22:55:12.193" Score="3" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just, for the first time, finished servicing the hubs on my bicycle. They are of the cup &amp;amp; cone type (Shimano). The cones of the front hub where pitted so I got them replaced, along with the bearing balls. The cups still looked smooth. I've packed them with a generous amount of grease and adjusted them for minimal play when out of the fork / no play when the QR is closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn the axle by hand it feels smooth. However, with the front wheel installed, when I lift the front and give the wheel a spin, there is some clicking/scratching noise. It only seems to be present when running at a certain speed. My guess is these are the bearings touching each other? Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6023" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T20:31:29.260" Title="Overhauled hubs: still some noise" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2285" CreationDate="2013-03-30T12:50:31.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All good answers, figure out what will be the primary use and base your decision on that. That way the compromises you make will be less apperant on your primary rides.  Having said that, and owning multiple bikes (hybrid, cyclocross, hard tail mountain) if I were forced to keep just one, it would be my Trek Lane, steel frame cyclocross bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6498" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T12:50:31.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15041" CreationDate="2013-03-30T16:03:59.870" Score="2" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cervélo S2 and absolutely love my bike. It has been rock solid. Unfortunately, I had a bad case of chain suck when my chain fell off my chain ring right when I was grinding up a hill. The damage left a little hole with exposed fibers right inside of my chain rings. I doubt Cervélo would warranty it, though that would be awesome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about repairs? Has there been any new advancements with carbon fiber repairs? I had similar damage on a mountain bike and just put an epoxy over the hole to keep moisture out. The repair held and I have ridden my MTB without problems since. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have to repair a pair of Sidi's too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastEditorUserId="1954" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T03:50:50.970" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T03:50:50.970" Title="Fixing Carbon Fiber" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15040" CreationDate="2013-03-30T17:06:39.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite common belief, carbon is repairable. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calfeedesign.com/repair/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Calfee Design&lt;/a&gt; is likely the best known company for this. It's not cheap, but it's not as expensive as a new frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T17:06:39.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2285" CreationDate="2013-03-31T10:14:00.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed on the choice of a CX-style bike with a selection of wheels &amp;amp; tyres for road vs off-road use: I ride a Surly Cross-Check, which is light enough, comfy enough and handles pretty much everything I want to do, though Salsa's Vaya (or even the Fargo) would probably be my first choice if I was starting again from scratch...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T10:14:00.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14848" CreationDate="2013-03-31T14:08:35.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Garmin 800 - planning is great and there are maps for most of the world. Good battery life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6502" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T14:08:35.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15040" CreationDate="2013-03-31T16:45:04.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the damage is considerable, I doubt that you'd need carbon fiber cloth in addition to the epoxy. This person gives some detailed photos of his DIY repair, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Repairing-a-Carbon-Fiber-Bicycle-Frame/step47/null/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Repairing-a-Carbon-Fiber-Bicycle-Frame/step47/null/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6503" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T16:45:04.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14982" CreationDate="2013-04-01T01:13:08.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my bike to two different bikeshops, to hear what the professionals had to say. They both said that the joint was out of alignment. No lubricant will fix the problem. Furthermore, because the joint was welded to each half of the bicycle, I cannot install a new one. The bicycle will break if I continue to fold it and unfold it. They recommended that I leave the bicycle unfolded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6419" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T01:13:08.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1549" CreationDate="2013-04-01T06:03:22.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late to this party but some good reading here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of jewels in this thread.  The math guy proving the weight of the bike might help 2-3% is priceless.  As an overweight cyclist, when someone passes me going up a hill and they do frequently, a 10% increase in my speed wouldn't help me keep up.  I'm doing 7, their doing 12, you figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is that comment by Lance saying it is easier to lighten the rider than the bike. So true.  When I hit my goal later in the year, I'll have lost more than the weight of the heaviest bicycle out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here is the rub, newbies and guys like me trying to get fit and lose a few pounds are going to get messed up with this light is right stuff.  Almost every light bike I've looked at drops the 1st chain ring and has little tiny tires and many even have missing spokes.  My Surly LHT is a heavy bike and the reason I got this bike was for the gearing, it has a MTB crank set and cassette. I'm pretty sure it will climb a phone pole if you can keep the tires stuck to it.  I ride in the 3rd ring most of the time but when I need to dump down, I need to dump down.  We all agree, hills make the man (person). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves me with the tires and wheels, going from 26x2.2 to 700.37 indeed rolls easier, but those tiny racing tires are not something I'm ready for. Perhaps it is more between my ears than real, but my Continentals ride just fine, thank you on chipped granite, something we see around here.  I cannot imagine hitting a pot hole with those little tires and half the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While heavy, my LHT is a very smooth ride and having being professionally fitted, I am comfortable on 25 mile rides. You all agree the bike has to be fun to ride and for the new guy struggling to get fit, he needs to be fitted to the bike and he needs low gears if he is going to ride hills and overpasses or the bike will not be fun.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastEditorUserId="6159" LastEditDate="2013-04-01T19:30:12.260" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T19:30:12.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15077" CreationDate="2013-04-01T13:12:56.147" Score="13" ViewCount="8430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was under the impression that reducing the weight of your wheels is important. However, I'm noticing that many of the extremely high-end aerodynamic rims are actually heavier than cheaper rims by the same manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Easton's relatively entry-level &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eastoncycling.com/product/ea90-slx/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;EA90 SLX wheels&lt;/a&gt; clock in at 1398 grams and around $1000 for a pair, while their super high-end &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikewheelsets.com/reviews/easton/easton-ec90-tko-wheelset-review/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;EC90 TKO&lt;/a&gt; are 1545 grams for twice the price.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mavic's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.ca/wheels-road-triathlon-ksyrium-elite-s#.U_DFpPldV8E&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kysrium Elite S&lt;/a&gt; wheels are 1520g and less than &lt;em&gt;a third&lt;/em&gt; the price of their high-end &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.com/wheels-road-triathlon-cosmic-cxr-80-t#.U_DFtPldV8E&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cosmic Carbone 80&lt;/a&gt; wheels at 1640g.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Zipp's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zipp.com/wheels/30-clincher/#&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;30 Clincher&lt;/a&gt; cost only $850 for a pair at 1655g while their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zipp.com/wheels/808-firecrest---carbon-clincher/#&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;808 Firecrest® Carbon Clinchers&lt;/a&gt; cost $3000 and weigh 1730g.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the prices seem to support the idea that aerodynamics matter more than a few hundred grams of weight, but at what point does the added weight offset the gain? Or is the importance of reducing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_performance#Advantages_of_light_wheels&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rotational weight overstated&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2014-08-17T15:12:30.717" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T19:59:04.190" Title="Are aerodynamic rims worth additional weight?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15047" CreationDate="2013-04-01T13:25:25.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on the course you're riding.  Professionals will have multiple wheelsets and use different wheels depending on the course they are riding for the day.  Weight really only makes a big difference if you are climbing or accelerating.  So for a course with a lot of climibing, where aerodynamic drag is at a minimum anyway, they will often choose a very light wheelset without aerodynamic rims. While on flat courses and time trials where aerodynamics give a bigger advantage they will go with the slightly heavier aerodynamic wheels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T13:25:25.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15126" CreationDate="2013-04-01T20:15:17.710" Score="7" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a pro, just a CAT 4 racer with a USA Cycling License. Can I be suspended and fined by UCI / USAC if I participate in non-sanctioned races? I've heard they are cracking down on licensed pros racing in non-sanctioned races, but does this apply to everyone?  What is the likelyhood of that actually happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UCI 1.2.019 rule states “No license holder may participate in an event that has not been included on a national, continental or world calendar or that has not been recognized by a national federation, a continental confederation or the UCI. Breaches of articles 1.2.019 or 1.2.020 shall render the license holder liable to one month’s suspension and a fine of 50 to 100 Swiss francs.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T18:50:26.227" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T16:58:47.937" Title="I'm a CAT 4 racer, will I be suspended from racing by UCI / USAC if I participate in non-sanctioned races?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-01T21:37:55.477" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear brake is jamming to the point that only half seems to be moving.  With worn blocks I got away with it, but now I have changed the pads I finally need to sort the problem.  Could the brakes be in need of a good clean, or could there be a fundamental issue with the brake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6509" LastEditorUserId="3338" LastEditDate="2013-04-02T15:14:15.910" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T03:13:27.147" Title="Jammed rear brakes" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15052" CreationDate="2013-04-02T00:37:11.337" Score="2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Saturday I received the new frame for a steel xc bike I'm building up. I went to start on the weekend but noticed a large paint build up on the bottom bracket. The build up is about 15x3mm (don't have a photo) on the outer face and lip of the BB. This will require my LBS to face the BB before I start the build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People I have spoken to at work believe that I should contact the seller (a major online retailler) about the build up as a warranty issue and see if they will cover the costs as one should reasonably be able to expect the frame ready to be built. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any common accepted practices that I should be aware of around this before contacting the retailler? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-04-02T01:16:49.237" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T02:51:33.923" Title="Could paint build up on a bottom bracket be considered a warranty issue?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15051" CreationDate="2013-04-02T02:51:33.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is normal and acceptable for a frame to be delivered with paint needing to be removed from the bottom bracket shell, headtube, and seat tube areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is assumed that a qualified mechanic with appropriate tools available will be assembling the bike, and that preparation of the frame is simply one of the necessary steps in the build process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, most every bike company requires that the frame be assembled by a qualified mechanic (and in some cases by a mechanic certified by the bike brand) in order to maintain the warranty on the frame or the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless there is something preventing the frame from being prepared properly, then this is unlikely to be considered a warranty issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T02:51:33.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-02T04:17:09.660" Score="1" ViewCount="1993" Body="&lt;p&gt;The city I live in has just installed cycle boxes in front of traffic at light controlled intersections. This has spark a lot of debate online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is that I will generally, through timing and being ready in the correct gear, be able to clear the intersection from a stand still before any cars will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any science to back up my observation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-04-02T15:14:04.267" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T15:14:04.267" Title="Is a bike faster than a car for the first ten metres?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;physics&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2013-04-02T16:57:30.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15053" CreationDate="2013-04-02T04:37:35.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a size versus distance thing. You are lighter and so your acceleration has a more immediate effect (and I'm sure some physicist will tell me I'm wrong on the cause...but this is how my memory stored in when I took junior high physics MANY years ago). For a short distance you should win if you can come off the line in the right gear and at the right time. You can probably beat most cars that aren't really flooring it for about 30'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the distance is shorter, a runner would win. Even shorter and an ant would take the checkered flag (if memory serves, the ant wins at 1cm or shorter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T04:37:35.460" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15056" CreationDate="2013-04-02T08:09:50.010" Score="2" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about chain &quot;closing&quot; (not sure of the english word, but you get it, right?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to open a chain with a chain tool, and I know I must not &quot;go too far&quot; as to remove the rivet from the outside hole. And I consider I have gone far enough when the chain can be opened. So it's pretty straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when closing a chain, how do I know I went &quot;far enough&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T08:55:54.330" Title="Question about chain re-attaching" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15055" CreationDate="2013-04-02T08:55:54.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I push the pin to it's 100% correct position (similar to other pins) and 1/10 of a mm more. Assume blue pin on photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I remove the chain tool and do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with my hands I bend the chain laterally (at the direction where it's not bending) mildly back and forth a couple of times. That is the red arrows on the photo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I turn the link completelly to one side and to the other (at the direction that the chain is bending) to make sure that the movement is complete and safe. That is the green arrows on the photo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I apply 2 drops of oil on the link that I've worked on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;redo step 3 once, check again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;done&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/iRfoSga.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That ensures that the metals on the link (I don't know the exact terminology of the parts) do not remain &quot;packed&quot; together and the link is not stiff. If I don't do this I'm afraid that when it becomes &quot;unstiff&quot; and the metals are unpacked, the pin may not be in the 100% perfect position and this may cause a problem later on when pedaling hard. The worst problem could be that the chain would break while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T08:55:54.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15067" CreationDate="2013-04-02T10:27:26.863" Score="46" ViewCount="2570" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barbie and Ken both love to ride the bike. Ken is a strong guy who likes to ride 60km as fast as possible, enjoys of getting to the edge of his strength. Barbie is more relaxed, likes to enjoy the view when riding and rides about 20km on a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, Barbie and Ken decided to go for a ride together. They decided to meet in the middle and ride 30km. After the trip, no one was happy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Barbie was very exhausted because of the long distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ken was bored because he would have liked to ride longer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can they do in the future to enjoy riding the bike together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T14:08:36.870" Title="Ride with someone who is less trained" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-04-02T10:51:13.160" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do a lap of 20km together then Ken can carry on and meet back at home/wherever after completing his ride, considering that lighter 20km as a nice sociable warm up. (The alternative would be for Ken to ride 40km hard, first, then meet to use the 20 as a warm-down.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe ride the opening 20km together, then Ken leaves Barbie at a suitable café, she can relax, have a drink and recover for a while, Ken spins off and rides hard, and comes back at the cafe, they ride home together at Barbie's pace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, stop at different cafés according to Barbie's preference for the opening spin and the closing warm down. You both get to visit different cafés and neither of you get stuck in a rut of particular distances! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T10:51:13.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-04-02T11:03:10.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what terrain you are doing.  We have a number of methods on training rides to combat this.  In addition to the leaving someone at cafes.  However this is more to do with hill climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Ken finds it too easy to climb a hill at the same pace as Barbie can comfortably climb then he should go at the same pace but in a higher gear (with out too much pedal mashing), that way he will find it equally strenuous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, Ken climbs at his own pace until he reaches the top of the hill.  When he does he goes down and meets up with Barbie.  He can either go off again at his own pace or do the second climb at Barbie's pace.  This way he gets to push himself, but will not leave Barbie on her own to do the whole climb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add to Unsliced's cafe suggestion that, if he left her at a cafe for 30 mins after doing 20km she could probably manage another 10km on the way home at an easy pace.  That way Ken might get 15 to 25km (at a hard pace) in while she is resting and then they can go home together in a leisurely fashion.  That extra 10km could expand the range on places she can stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I would suggest they joined a cycling club, we have some couples in ours who do not ride at the same level.  They have all the same social advantages, but the stronger rider does not have to worry about the weaker rider being by themselves.  They can sometimes ride together and sometimes ride separately in groups appropriate to their level of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T11:03:10.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10459" CreationDate="2013-04-02T13:38:38.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen it mentioned, but have you made sure your wheels are true?   Am having the same issue and worry there is something like brakes rubbing. After I get the wheels aligned  we''ll try try again, starting from 0. If he takes off then well try swapping bikes and seeing if its the bike or the rider!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6513" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T13:38:38.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-04-02T14:40:05.620" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that if Ken and Barbie want to continue biking together that Ken should learn that not every bike ride has to be about getting a work out or training.  I mean, what happens when little sister Kelly visits and wants to go for a bike ride with them? Is Ken going to just leave them in the dust?  Alternatively if Ken really insists on trying to get a workout on what is obviously a recreational ride, he could try things like doing one legged drills, going the whole way without sitting down (this will tire your legs out), or always leaving it in the lowest/hardest gear, except when descending down a big hill at which point he should put the bike in the easiest gear and see if he can set a new high score on his cadence meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T14:40:05.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-04-02T14:58:12.600" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they're ambitious, they could try out a tandem, so that Ken can do more of the work while still riding at the same pace as Barbie. Just remember that this can potentially cause unhappiness in its own ways, if they don't work together well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T14:58:12.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-04-02T15:52:12.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I come mainly from CrossFit, where we get everyone working out at the same time, with the same intensity level by scaling the difficulty of what we do.  For weighted movements, that means more weight, for bodyweight things, it's harder movements (knee push-ups -&gt; push-ups -&gt; clapping push-ups -&gt; handstand push-ups).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cycling, you could do this by adding weight if your bike has a rack or riding a less-efficient bike, perhaps a mountain bike with knobby tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T15:52:12.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-04-02T16:11:17.047" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing first: Barbie should NEVER suffer a penalty because of Ken's preferences or athletic level. It is up to Ken to solve by himself the problem of making Barbie enjoy the ride. Leaving her alone is not fine, unless she explicitly, truly says it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility could be to add weight to Ken's bike, or maybe Ken could choose, among his many bikes, the one less efficient, be it because of weight, aerodynamic position, or rolling resistence. Of course, if he has a blazing racing bike, he could very well fit it so that Barbie can ride with less effort (and thus faster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Barbie and Ken are in a firm relationship and their mood is well tuned, riding a tandem is a garanteed success. Take a well-paved, fair traffic road and Barbie will love to go above 20mph while Ken beat the sh*t out of his legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's go further in the future: if they happen to have a CHILD some day, of course Ken is going to carry her around on his bike. Around four years old, the &quot;average speed&quot; of Barbie and Ken+Child should be quite similar, and beyond that age Ken is starting to fall behind... Above eight years old, or even sooner, the kid can eventually become the tandem stoker, while Ken is the captain and Barbie goes happily along with her own solo bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to mention that every regularly performed physical activity develops endurance, then perhaps if Ken is patient, and surely if he gives up a bit the &quot;every ride is a workout&quot; paradigm, Barbie can improve, then Ken doesn't have to wait so often, neither she has to keep riding only 20km. But ONLY if he is patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(That pretty much describes my recently completed five years of marriage, with a stepson now 11 years old. I believe even a steady date can benefit somehow with this tips. Of course lots of times things go wrong, though...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2013-04-03T02:22:00.597" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T02:22:00.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-02T16:21:59.800" Score="5" ViewCount="1580" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with either waterproofing panniers with a waterproof spray or using waterproof covers for panniers? Which one was best? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to invest in waterproof panniers as I will be using dry bags anyway but it would be nice to see some repellent action going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4987" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T13:45:17.647" Title="Waterproof spray or waterproof pannier cover?" Tags="&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15065" CreationDate="2013-04-02T17:52:24.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've personally never seen or heard of a waterproof spray that will protect against soaking. Water hitting the material might run off fairly well, but a continuous rain soaks it so much that water will just seep through. That might not be a problem for commuting, but I'm assuming that if you're going through the extra step of double water-proofing, you're probably touring. If you're touring, you're almost certainly going to be stuck riding in the rain for an extended period of time at some point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterproof covers are ok. The problem is that they don't completely cover the pannier since they can't wrap around the mounting hardware. The back of the pannier &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; get wet. If there's enough rain, it'll get wet enough to soak through to what's inside. Another problem with covers, and this is the part that I like the least about them, is that it's just one more thing that you have to carry around. I'm not necessarily a weight-weenie, but I am a space-weenie and covers take up a fair amount of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd recommend skipping the dry bags (again, they just take up extra space) and getting fully waterproof roll-top panniers like the ones made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/subcategory.asp?category=2&quot;&gt;Ortlieb&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axiomgear.com/news/tag/axiom-panniers/&quot;&gt;Axiom&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vaude.com/en-GB/en/Products/Bike/Bike-Bags/&quot;&gt;Vaude&lt;/a&gt;. These bags will stand up to a freaking monsoon without any worry of water getting inside. The only real water related problem that you're likely to run into is that humidity can build up and condense inside the bags. But you're not talking about a huge amount of water there, certainly less than you would if you were caught in a downpour with a bag that wasn't waterproof to begin with.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T17:52:24.963" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-04-02T18:00:00.007" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Ken is training that hard, he should have rest days with easy rides. Barbie should join him on a rest day easy ride, preferably the day after the hardest ride he does all week. Ken should also realize that allowing Barbie to set the pace ensures that he will not be over training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As heltonbiker has mentioned in his comment, this can also be done on the same day, e.g. Ken can train hard in the morning and ride with Barbie in the afternoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Ken really feels that he would like to go longer, he should do one 20km loop with Barbie and then a second by himself while Barbie gets on with the rest of her day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T13:57:03.383" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T13:57:03.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15049" CreationDate="2013-04-02T18:35:31.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were to rephrase the question &quot;&lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; I be suspended...?&quot; then I think you'd have your answer: Absolutely. The wording of the rule is clear and unequivocal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as you phrased it &quot;&lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; I be suspended...?&quot; the answer is it's possible, but not very likely for a Cat 4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vast majority of USAC officials are merely cycling enthusiasts who work part time as officials. Most of them have full-time jobs and officiate on the weekend because they like to do it, not because they get paid to. Until an official gets near the level that they're officiating pro races, the pay averages out to less than minimum wage. That being the case, you can pretty much bet that they don't have the time to comb through the results of every low-level racer at every race all around the world and compare them to the races that they've officiated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, they &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; cycling enthusiasts. There's always a chance that they'll be reading results for the fun of it and just happen to notice your name somewhere that it shouldn't be. Especially if you're racing sanctioned and unsanctioned races in the same area. Officials travel a bit by necessity, but usually not too incredibly far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addendum&lt;/strong&gt;: Having gone on to read the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/templates/UCI/UCI2/layout.asp?MenuId=MTkzNg&amp;amp;LangId=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;full text of the UCI rules&lt;/a&gt;, 1.2.019 states that: &quot;A national  federation may grant special exceptions for races or particular events run in its own country.&quot; What those exceptions are, and how and when USAC might apply them is not clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-04-02T18:46:22.753" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T18:46:22.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15050" CreationDate="2013-04-02T19:15:31.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably need to grease the pivots. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;For cantileaver brakes&lt;/a&gt; check out this page.  For caliper brakes I would just drip a little lube into the pivots.  If grease doesn't help you may want to consider taking the bike to your LBS for service/ advice.  Adding some grease to your cable housing may help as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5371" LastEditorUserId="5371" LastEditDate="2013-04-02T19:23:39.037" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T19:23:39.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-04-02T20:07:14.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before doing the 30 km leg with Barbie, Ken should give himself a handicap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get up early in the morning and do his hard 60 km (or longer) bike ride.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go to the gym and hit the lower body with heavy weights: squats, deadlifts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no cyclist on the planet who cannot be reduced to quivering, buckling legs with some heavy weight lifting, and thereafter find 30 km of riding a struggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T20:07:14.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15076" CreationDate="2013-04-02T21:30:55.400" Score="5" ViewCount="1931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have installed on my bike brand new cantilever brakes (Shimano CX-70).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the rear, the braking is justas efficient as I would have expected it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But on the front, it feels quite weak. Front braking is usually more efficient that rear but in my case it is not. Actually, stopping by using only the front brake would take very long. It is just powerful enough to maintain a low speed in downhills or increase the braking power of the rear (I get a little more power when squeezing the levers from the drops position).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But obviously the rear braking can only be as much efficient as the rear braking can get, with the limitation of all the weight and traction concentrated on the front that should make it the most efficient brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I checked the installation of my brake:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pads are in perfect condition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They get in contact with the rim about 1-2 mm from the very top of the rim (and the beginning of the tire)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they have a &amp;lt; 2 mm clearance between rim and pad and that distance is the same on both sides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I installed properly a cable stop (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aspirevelotech.com/images/Paul%20Components/041-FunkyMonkeyFrontCableHanger-Black.jpg&quot;&gt;http://www.aspirevelotech.com/images/Paul%20Components/041-FunkyMonkeyFrontCableHanger-Black.jpg&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the cable condition is very good, as is the housing and it is properly lubricated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, the rims are also in very good condition and I do know that the brakes are not exactly the same model on the front and the rear and yes I have purchased the right versions and yes the front is installed in the front and the rear on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, I could understand that the brakes are crap, but in that case a similar model would not be working properly on the rear. So even if the whole mechanism were just exactly operating the same as in the rear, I would get at least as much and probably even way more efficiency on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T02:43:12.943" Title="What alters the efficiency of (cantilever) brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15072" CreationDate="2013-04-02T23:47:28.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;efficiency&quot; (mechanical advantage) of a brake system is determined by its geometry (brake arms and brake levers) and generally can't be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effectiveness of the brakes can vary, though, based on general maintenance issues (lubed cables, etc), the brake pad material, and the alignment of the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you &quot;replaced&quot; the brakes.  What were the old brakes you replaced -- cantilevers?  If so, did they have the same geometry?  Did you keep the same brake levers or install new ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if the front and rear have the same geometry and the same components they should have the same effectiveness (up to the point of rear wheel skid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T23:47:28.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-04-03T00:35:51.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back when I was doing long training rides and my wife liked to do 30km mile fun rides, I did my long ride with training partners and she biked the 10 or 15km to meet me somewhere for lunch, then we biked the scenic route home together at her pace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could bike home at the end of your ride and meet her for a short &quot;cool-down&quot; ride with her at her pace. (or she could drive to meet you at the end of your ride)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T00:35:51.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15065" CreationDate="2013-04-03T01:12:04.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my commuter pannier, I use both wash-in waterproofing and a cove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In light rain or if it starts to rain when I'm almost at the office, the spray-on waterproofing keeps things dry enough. But in a heavy rain, water is going to seep in, so I stop and pull out the cover -- the waterproof cover stays in a special pocket so it's always easy to find and only takes a few seconds to put on. Plus the cover keeps the road grime off the bag - I have fenders, but cars seem to kick up a lot of dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't usually dry-bag things inside the pannier so if water seeps in, things are going to get wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commuter pannier has a hard plastic back, so even though the cover doesn't cover the back, I've never had water get inside and make my clothes wet, though the longest I ever spend in the rain on the commute is about 75 minutes, maybe if I was touring and was in the rain all day it would be more of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastEditorUserId="5459" LastEditDate="2013-04-03T03:14:22.910" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T03:14:22.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15072" CreationDate="2013-04-03T02:43:12.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had similar problems in the past, and I would group them in these &quot;categories&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your rims are different. One of them has a smoother surface, or a different alloy, or a different quality alloy, and the actual friction is lower in one of the rims. I have this problem currently with one of my bikes;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One pair of brake pads is different. It can be from a different batch, or different model, or different brand, or different material, etc.;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your pads are the (very common) asymmetric type, THEY SHOULD ALWAYS HAVE THE LONGER SIDE POINTING BACKWARDS! Everytime you brake, the pads tend to rotate &quot;outwards&quot;, pulled by the moving rim, and that's why it's always best to assemble the pads with the longer side pointing backwards;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One or both of your brake bosses (and overall bike structure) flex when you brake. Specially on the front, where the &quot;rotating outwards&quot; can combine with the (carbon?) fork &quot;opening&quot; while braking. This is very successfully solved with a (somewhat infamous) &quot;brake booster&quot;;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are some possible geometric tunings, but this specific model doesn't seem to allow for tuning the pad position or the straddle cable length. If that were the case, attaching the pads away from the brake arms (thus widening the angle between the arms) and increasing the angle of the straddle cable gives the best mechanical advantage;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pads have not burned in yet. Going for a tough ride, with long descents and possibly some dirt, could allow the braking power to emerge;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The braking surfaces keep being contamined by some non-cycling-related influence in your house: car exhaust near the front wheel, use of some spray product near the bike, oil coming from some wierd place, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T02:43:12.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15047" CreationDate="2013-04-03T03:57:34.080" Score="16" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Obviously the prices seem to support the idea that aerodynamics matter&#xA;  more than a few hundred grams of weight, but at what point does the&#xA;  added weight offset the gain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An exact calculation will depend on the total mass of you and your bike, your speed, the wind, its angle, whether you're climbing, on the flat, or descending, and the speed you're going (or the power you're putting out). However, we can make ballpark estimates of many of those variables to get an approximate answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say the aero wheels add 100 grams of total mass compared to the &quot;stock&quot; wheels, and in return reduce your drag area, CdA, by .005 m^2. That's a ballpark improvement for a reasonably aero wheel compared to a standard box rim, though for extremely well-designed wheels you can see perhaps double that difference (~ .01 m^2) or more, especially at high yaw angles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power equation for a bicycle is well-understood and was given in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9938/how-can-one-estimate-drag-for-a-bicycle&quot;&gt;Bicycles Stackexchange answer&lt;/a&gt;. Thus to determine the point at which it is preferable to trade off lower weight for aerodynamic drag, we can substitute suitable values for mass, speed, slope, and so on, and plot the power savings, as is done here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The figure below compares an 80 kg rider plus bike with standard box rims vs&#xA;an 80.1 kg rider plus bike with aero rims. We presume the aero rims save .005 m^2 in drag area compared to the standard rims. Three dotted lines show the power savings for a climb of 5%, a flat road, and a 5% descent. The x-axis shows the speed of the rider in km/h, while the y-axis shows the savings for the lighter wheels -- when the dotted line is above the solid horizontal zero line, it is better to have lighter wheels; when the dotted line falls below the solid horizontal zero line, it is better to have the more aerodynamic wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7drAx.png&quot; alt=&quot;weight vs. aero drag comparison&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, only for steep climbs at low speed is it preferable to have lighter wheels; however, for this particular comparison of weight savings and aero drag savings, the benefit is small, less than a watt. As speed increases, the dotted line eventually dips below zero and it becomes better to opt for the aero savings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was for a steep hill. On the flat and for descents, you will almost always be better off with the more aero wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the savings in power is still relatively modest. When racing, even small benefits can accrue to determine victory or loss, but for normal recreational riding you may want to keep the magnitude of lighter wheels vs more aero wheels in mind, especially if your budget is limited. Only you can decide whether the relative benefit is cost effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T03:57:34.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2013-04-03T06:01:29.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most effective for plastic/glass bottles is to leave by a UV lamp for 10-15 min! or if you can get the the UV bulb inside the bottle 1 min is more than enough :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6522" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T06:01:29.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-03T08:32:21.247" Score="3" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;in the office many of us cycle to work. We though it would be cool to have ranking of cyclists with different sorting (distance, avg. speed and such). We can track our trips with Android or iPhone apps (like Strava Cycling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are mostly developers, so if we find a tool or device that can easily display a ranking (per week, month, all time) we can use the tools to track our trips and compete with each other :) Can you suggest something that might work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6525" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T19:26:03.890" Title="Electronic bicycling ranking for the office cyclists?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15080" CreationDate="2013-04-03T08:38:16.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strava has an &lt;a href=&quot;https://stravasite-main.pbworks.com/w/page/51754108/Strava%20API%20v2%20Overview&quot;&gt;API&lt;/a&gt; so if you all use it to log your rides, you could pull the data for each rider and do any analysis you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are heaps of people (including me) using the API for additional statistics and analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T08:38:16.033" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15024" CreationDate="2013-04-03T12:14:32.553" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adapters like this do exist, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.danscomp.com/489051.php?cat=PARTS&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.danscomp.com/489051.php?cat=PARTS&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bentechbikes.com/vbrakes.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bentechbikes.com/vbrakes.htm&lt;/a&gt; (Edit: Links are now dead, but they were basically the same as the one in the photo below. Sourcing one might be even harder now though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact I used one on my old folding bike - but you can see it looks a bit of a mess, and when I tried it on the front fork, it really wasn't up to the job (I ended up using a chunky long reach caliper brake taken off a BMX bike). (I'd changed wheel size and was using much fatter tyres, so the original brakes wouldn't fit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also adaptors that bolt around a chainstay: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=33168&amp;amp;st=0&amp;amp;sk=t&amp;amp;sd=a&amp;amp;start=30&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=33168&amp;amp;st=0&amp;amp;sk=t&amp;amp;sd=a&amp;amp;start=30&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not saying I'd recommend you use them, but the option is there (if sometimes hard to find - the one I used was the last the local store had in stock of a discontinued line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtYHa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;V-brake adaptor on my old folder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T10:03:14.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14928" CreationDate="2013-04-03T14:49:40.427" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use any front derailleur shifter just tune 2nd gear on the shifter to 2nd gear in your hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6527" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T14:49:40.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2013-04-03T17:35:06.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the length of the skis a &quot;Sandwich&quot; of skis with the frame in the middle can work, using bungees to strap them together. also if you have a rack over the rear wheel this will further support them... Wouldn't try this for my old Downhill boards. by my newer and shorter Slalom boards would do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6530" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T17:35:06.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-03T17:53:30.410" Score="9" ViewCount="14717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a flat tire and replaced the air chamber. While doing that the rubber stripe that stands between the wheel and the air chamber ripped and it's no longer a ring. It´s hard to put it correctly and I don't have a replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of this stripe? is it needed? leaving there (badly fitted) is worse than not having the stripe at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6150" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-04-03T19:08:36.947" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:28:41.147" Title="What is the purpose of the rubber stripe between the wheel and the air chamber?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15088" CreationDate="2013-04-03T18:07:55.040" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe what you're describing is the &quot;Rim Tape&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim tape covers up the holes in the rim (wheel) that the spokes attach through. Without that tape covering the holes, the innertube (air chamber) will be exposed to holes and sharp surfaces that are likely to cause another flat tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rim tape is torn in one spot, but still covering all of those holes, it should probably be fine. Maybe feel around that area with your fingers for any edges to be sure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you see the holes in the rim when the tire and tube are not on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it looks like the tube could press into the rim tape holes, you can always patch it. A few layers of electrical tape should do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/rim-tape&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'rim-tape'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;rim-tape&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/innertube&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'innertube'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;innertube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-04-04T15:26:00.647" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T15:26:00.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-04-03T20:48:28.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on the &lt;em&gt;different bicycles&lt;/em&gt; answer: The less trained person could ride a recumbent.  With the same effort, riding a recumbent goes considerably faster.  From people I know with recumbents, they regularly overtake racers even when they're not doing much work.  The work/speed ratio is just a completely different story on a recumbent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T20:48:28.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15050" CreationDate="2013-04-04T03:13:27.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with mine earlier in the winter when they got filled with salt and road grit from my daily commute; after taking them apart, cleaning the dirt out of any motion points, and lubricating them, they work great. If you don't feel like taking them apart, at least try lubricating them first and that might suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6536" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T03:13:27.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-04T09:20:19.130" Score="7" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;My poor bike's chain lasted all of three months before it gave in to the winter floods where I live. Storing it indoors is not an option, and despite my maintenance efforts, the knee-deep floods that come once a month or so, rain every other day, and ocean only a quarter of a mile away has made it pretty much impossible to keep my chain dry. It's deteriorated beyond a useable point, so I have to buy a new one now. I'm new to bike maintenance on this level so I'd really like some advice on how to avoid replacing it again in three months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6538" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T20:53:44.047" Title="I live in a place where it frequently floods. How can I keep my chain from rusting?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15093" CreationDate="2013-04-04T10:17:19.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to start using a &quot;wet&quot; chain lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;“Wet” chain lubes are recommended for wet riding conditions. They are generally &#xA;made from oils and are not easily washed off by water.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-the-Point-Chain-Lube-2013.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-the-Point-Chain-Lube-2013.html&lt;/a&gt; for detailed chain maintenance information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T10:17:19.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15093" CreationDate="2013-04-04T11:22:40.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I agree with cherouvim that wet lube is a good thing for rust prevention, I would also ask if it's possible to store the bike higher up, perhaps with some kind of simple cover to prevent the rain and salt-spray from getting to it. Perhaps a couple of hooks on the wall and some rope or a simple bench or couple of large stones to stand the bike on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever magical product you treat it with, all parts of a bike are going to suffer from being repeatedly immersed in salt-water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-04-04T15:34:31.707" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T15:34:31.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15093" CreationDate="2013-04-04T11:27:44.177" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're getting knee-deep floods it's destroying the bearings along with the chain.  You need to hang the bike up somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T11:27:44.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-04T13:24:30.870" Score="1" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a new handlebar, ideally 3 inches. But looking in some of the online shops it seems quite hard to get 31.8mm  bar clamp diameter handlebar with 3&quot; rise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know if there is any reason for that?, is it maybe because people change the stem as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3304" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T03:31:55.533" Title="Why are 3 inches mountain bike handlebar hard to find?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-04-10T17:11:36.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15093" CreationDate="2013-04-04T13:48:23.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could remove the chain from the sprockets while it's not being used. If you have quick release wheels removing it and putting it back on should take no longer than 5 minutes.  Removed the back wheel, disengage the chain, and wrap it up around the seat post. If you have a single speed or fixed gear bike, this will be easy but it gets more complicated with derailleurs, but depending on their design it still might be possible with about 10 minutes of work. But it probably doesn't flood every day, so you should watch your weather forecast and only do this if you think there's a chance of a flood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would second @Daniel's recommendation of getting the bike up off the ground.  If you have a derrailleur, yoo will at least have part of that sitting in the water along with the chain, and depending on the depth of the water, your bottom bracket and wheel hubs also.  You can also purchase a stainless steel or nickel plated chain which might hold up to the water a bit better.  If your spokes and wheels aren't rusted out then a stainless chain might be an easy solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2013-04-04T13:54:24.937" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T13:54:24.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15088" CreationDate="2013-04-04T15:33:28.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, it's &quot;rim tape&quot; or a &quot;rim strip&quot;.  The &quot;tape&quot; version is a bit like medical adhesive tape, while the &quot;strip&quot; version is generally a circular strip of rubber or stretchy plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the strip is to separate the &quot;inner tube&quot; (your &quot;air chamber&quot;) from the spoke ends and the holes where they reside.  The spoke ends are sharp and will cut through the inner tube in short order, and if the holes are deep then the air pressure in the inner tube will force a portion of the tube into the hole, stressing it to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried running without a rim strip and have never gotten more than about 10 miles before the tube punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacements are available from any cycle shop for a nominal cost, or you can use any sort of reasonably robust tape.  Do be aware that there are different widths, and a wide strip in a narrow wheel will interfere with proper tire mounting, while a narrow strip in a wide wheel may not adequately cover the spoke holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T15:33:28.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15088" CreationDate="2013-04-04T17:29:25.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use fairly cheap substitutes: My preferred one is the very same old inner tube, cut to fit. Cut a stripe a bit wider than the rim, and it's length should allow to go completely around the rim. Use patching glue to close the loop. the loop should be tight enough so it keeps in place by it's own tension. To properly glue the ends of the rubber, use sand paper to buff the ends of the stripe and use more glue than normally used for patching. Apply glue to both ends, allow to touch-dry then press ends together and let sit 10 or 20 minutes before installing. Do not forget to cut a small hole for the valve stem. The stripe should have one side completely facing out (no twisting!). These expensive &quot;Inner Tube Protectors&quot; have served me way more years than the tires in all my mountain bikes, which I ride at 45psi approx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Medical adhesive tape (the cloth-like variety) is also very suitable and affordable and easy to use, but I have never used it personally (Friends of mine use and recommend it too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vinyl used in advertising banners can be used too, but some varieties (most, actually) are not stretchy so the ends of the stripe must be glued while already in the rim. Vinyl can be glued with rubber cement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many kinds of cloth can be used, they must be like painter's canvas, soft denim, the kind of nylon used in back-packs. These can be also glued with rubber cement. Stretchy cloth can also be sewn with a soft thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For emergencies many kinds of tape can be used, like electrical tape, masking tape, etc. As long as it is soft enough to adapt to the rim's well and not have a sharp edge or wire reinforcement, etc... However, these solutions often are not long lasting as for example Masking tape is paper-like so it practically dissolves on water, electrical tape adhesive sooner or later degrades to a messy, sticky useless substance that will make a hassle every time you have to patch or replace tube/tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moneywise anecdote: On a local store inner tube cost the equivalent to $7.5 and the rim tape $40.00 (they only had fancy stuff). The old tube I was about to replace had cost $4.0 and it had enough rubber for 3 &quot;Inner Tube Protectors&quot;. I just needed patch glue, sand paper and scissors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:28:41.147" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:28:41.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7363" CreationDate="2013-04-04T17:57:08.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I also prefer the floor pump, but, sometimes I use a car tire emergency compressor. It Connects to the cicarrete lighter plug, and it is slow, but a bike tire has such small volume that it can be easily imflated in 3-4 minutes from zero, almost the same time that whould take with an average old floor pump, but almost zero effort from the operator. I have tried many brands, and for bike tires all of them worked fine and all were capable of 60psi+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be an option that saves you space, these kind of &quot;compressors&quot; are really compact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really would advise you out of tankless compressors meant for paint jobs or aerograph use, they usually are not powerfull enough. Inflators meant for beach imflatables or balloons are not an option either, they have even less power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a small 3.5 gallon compresor (the tank is small, the motor is the same as a bigger, profesional model of the same brand) that is fine for even car's tires, it's really fast on bike tires, but since I don't have permanent workshop facilities, storing the compressor awary after each use takes longer than the tire imflation, and takes a bigger effort, so I ended preffering the floor pump. (Use the compressor just for air tools). It also makes tremendous noise so it bothers neighbors and other household companions (It's not rare for me to imflate bike tires really early in the morning or really late at night). Other point to consider is adding the compressor's maintenance to your agenda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So take these in consideration, you may purchase a bigger hassle just in order to inflate bike tires. A floor pump, a hand pump, a foot pump are all very compact and portable and are powered by you, therefore more ecologic. They are almost noiseless. Also, if you bike for execise, pumping helps for the warm-up ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T17:57:08.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2013-04-04T18:14:28.053" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a DIY solution, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletouringpro.com/blog/how-to-carry-skis-on-a-bicycle/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;adding a vertical ski tube to your rack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qh2nY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T18:14:28.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15009" CreationDate="2013-04-04T20:11:15.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Local Bike Shop will be able to disassemble your bike and properly pack it into one of the same cardboard boxes that brand new bikes get shipped to them in.  When you reach your destination, another bike shop will be able to re-assemble it (if you aren't comfortable doing this yourself) and throw away the cardboard box.  At the end of your ride, have another LBS disassemble it and pack it into another cardboard bike box to ship home.  Expect to pay somewhere between $50 and $75 to have it packed and somewhere between $75 and $150 to have it reassembled by qualified mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I recommend contacting all of the bike shops ahead of time to make sure they'll be able to work with your schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I recommend having the bike shipped ahead and not bringing it with you to the airport.  Airport baggage handler are much tougher on your luggage than UPS, also, if you ship it before you go, the shop can have it assembled by the time you get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, and enjoy your trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6296" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T20:11:15.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15093" CreationDate="2013-04-04T20:53:44.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get stainless steel chains, but that won't stop the other components from failing, and they are typically not all stainless so will still rust a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a read of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9512/are-there-any-disadvantages-to-running-a-stainless-steel-bike-chain&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; answer as it has useful information on rust resistant chains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T20:53:44.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15109" CreationDate="2013-04-04T23:33:37.867" Score="2" ViewCount="10434" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding my bike within my suburban residential neighborhood, I felt a shock, like a snap although I don't think anything snapped, followed by a rubbing noise every few seconds. Pedaling and the brakes continued to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled over and examined my bike, starting with the brakes, and discovered that the left side of the rear tire now rubs against the left chain stay at one spot, near the tube valve stem. The wheel/tire is perfectly centered everywhere else along its circumference, just not there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had this bike for about a year (bought at Goodwill), and, aside from a break over the winter, I've been riding it at least once a week, and I can tell you that this didn't happen before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't done any hard riding recently; I've been taking it easy as I build back up from my winter break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire is seated correctly on the rim, as far as I can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't count the spokes off one by one, but looking at where they each meet the rim, they seem to all still be intact. There weren't any dangling off or obviously snapped away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bicycle is an old Univega hybrid bike with 700c Bontrager tires. I'm no expert, but I'd describe the tires as road tires, about an inch wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm stumped for what's caused it or how to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5206" LastEditorUserId="5206" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T02:05:08.067" LastActivityDate="2019-07-19T06:48:18.217" Title="Rear tire has started rubbing frame at one spot" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15108" CreationDate="2013-04-05T00:21:19.100" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the spokes - its likely one or more has broken (&quot;I felt a shock, like a snap....&quot;.). The ones to check are ones that got from the rim, where the rubbing is occurring, to the hub on the opposite side of the rubbing (in your case, the right side of the hub). If these have let go, there is nothing stopping the rim being pulled to the left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that these are loose, not broken, although it unlikely. If the spokes are not broken, you might be able to straighten the rim by tightening the right side spokes and if needed, loosening the left side ones. It's not too hard if the rim is not too far out of true, but needs patience for a novice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a broken spoke, or the rim is a long way off and cannot be &quot;tweaked&quot; it will be worth taking to your LBS to get them to look at it. As it's only a year old, spokes should not be breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T00:21:19.100" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15112" CreationDate="2013-04-05T02:26:31.163" Score="2" ViewCount="2158" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain to me the pros/cons of drop or straight? I've never used drops before and have never owned a good road bike (just cheap mountain bikes) - I am buying a decent single speed soon and unsure if I am better to go with straight or drop bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not an experienced cyclist and the bike will be used for fun/commute mainly (no on-road riding where I am weaving between cars or anything, cycleways)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6546" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T02:42:19.327" Title="Straight or Drop handlebars?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15111" CreationDate="2013-04-05T02:37:18.607" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Drop bars&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of drop bars is that you have a variety of positions for your hands, giving you options to make you more aerodynamic or just have a change if you get a bit sore in one spot. Additionally, having your hands 'pointing forward' is a more neutral position for your shoulders, where flat bars cause them to rotate outwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/8852/1588&quot;&gt;What are the positions on drop bars called?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/5251/1588&quot;&gt;How to use drop bars properly?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Flat bars&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of flat bars is that you are always in the optimal position to grab the brakes and gears. Additionally, flat bars can be wider, providing more control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other bar types&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1195/1588&quot;&gt;Different kinds of Handlebars&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T02:42:19.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15116" CreationDate="2013-04-05T03:25:14.703" Score="14" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know what the bumpy part near the threads of this pedal are for? They look like they might fit a special wrench, but I can't find any that would fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQAEv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bumpy-spindled-pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I must be missing something, and that I've seen these bumps around, but never understood their purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6547" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T06:12:47.257" Title="What are the bumpy parts around the spindle of some pedals?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15097" CreationDate="2013-04-05T03:31:55.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can theorize. A higher rise would mean that as you bump along, you apply more torque to the handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet that above a certain threshold, the rise becomes so great that preventing the handlebar from spinning in the stem becomes a real problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6547" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T03:31:55.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15113" CreationDate="2013-04-05T03:57:37.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bumpy part unscrews. That's how you get to the bearings, I believe. They make special tools that fit over it - if you can't find that, and you don't care about the bumpy part looking pretty, you can just use pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T03:57:37.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15113" CreationDate="2013-04-05T06:12:47.257" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'official' tool that engages with that bumpy collar is the Shimano TL-PD-40 bearing shaft removal tool. It's a plastic tool designed to be used with a larger wrench, or a vice. Here's a pic: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/311FAvSyLeL._SX300_.jpg&quot;&gt;TL-PD-40&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in servicing your pedals using this tool and others, here's a how-to from Park Tool: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/spd-pedal-overhaul&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/spd-pedal-overhaul&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T06:12:47.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15120" CreationDate="2013-04-05T11:56:09.123" Score="5" ViewCount="11500" Body="&lt;p&gt;i usually take a 21 inch size in mountain bike, but I want to buy a road bike. I'm 6'2'' and have a 34 inch inner leg. How do the sizes translate from mountain bike to road bike? &#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T19:34:36.370" Title="Sizing guide for road bikes vs mountain bikes" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15118" CreationDate="2013-04-05T14:41:09.103" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There does not seem to be a universal standard for bike sizing. Due to the variety of designs and geometry size will vary between manufacturers and intended use, touring, racing, commuting are all slightly different. You often hear about the importance of fit and it's relation to performance and comfort and this is where a good relationship with your LBS is key. Most brands will have a guideline to get you in a range. One brand may place you solidly on a 58cm frame a different brand might place you between a 58 and a 60. You really have to test ride several sizes and brands to see what fits. A proper fitting will take into account your geometry and the bike geometry and try to get a match. It may involve swapping stems, adding headset spacers adjusting saddle setback. These adjustments make the frame feel bigger or smaller to get you comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T14:41:09.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15128" CreationDate="2013-04-05T14:55:54.503" Score="1" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a Canadian who's visiting the Netherlands for a few months. I'm awed by the strength of the bicycling culture here, but, to date, I haven't been able to locate any community bike shops. By &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Community_bike_shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;community bike shop&lt;/a&gt; I mean a place where you can borrow tools and do your own repairs on site, for a small fee. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bikecollectives.org&lt;/a&gt; doesn't list any in the country. Given the number of cyclists here, though, it seems inconceivable that organizations like these don't exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any community bike shops in the Netherlands?  (Specifically, one in Amsterdam or The Hague where I might be able to true my back wheel?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4721" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T20:25:33.600" Title="Are there any community bike shops in the Netherlands?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;europe&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-05T16:12:07.727" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a fair bit of cycle touring, I've been a regular mountain biker and now I cycle regularly in the city. I would definitely say that cycling shapes my life and the way I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there such a thing as a philosophy of life that unites cyclists and are there any books, writers, or well known cyclists who talk about such a thing? Does cycling make people think differently? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T17:34:07.343" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T17:43:47.683" Title="Is there such a thing as a cyclist philosophy?" Tags="&lt;bike-culture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-04-10T17:11:52.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15118" CreationDate="2013-04-05T16:19:47.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old traditional scheme for sizing a road frame was &quot;standover height&quot;.  You'd stand with your feet flat on the ground, straddling the bike.  If you had &quot;comfortable&quot; (for a male) clearance of the (traditionally-positioned) top tube then the bike was the right size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found in practice that this scheme maybe leads one to select a bike that is slightly too large, but it's a good first approximation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, these days many bikes are not traditional diamond frames, so you kind of have to extrapolate to apply the technique.  And there are other aspects of fit, such as &quot;reach&quot;, that usually follow overall fit, but not always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T16:19:47.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15122" CreationDate="2013-04-05T17:32:14.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling is a varied experience including many different reasons to ride, such as commuting, fitness, or racing. Experience is further shaped by the type of bike and environment. The book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0811869989&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Snob&lt;/a&gt; tries to distill what cyclists have in common and presents the definition of a cyclist as someone who chooses to ride a bike even if they don't have to. The book further argues that there's no such thing as &quot;bike culture&quot;. However, it also summarizes (in a humorous fashion) some of the types of cyclists and how they often view each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though there's no uniform bike culture, many individual people have their own philosophy. You may be able to find some biographies or autobiographies about cyclists who describe their own attitude toward cycling and how it changed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are many groups of like-minded people who might share an approach to cycling. One website that often gets cited online is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velominati&lt;/a&gt;, which declares a list of rules for road cycling which they claim to be philosophical. This type of &quot;philosophy&quot; seems to be more about creating a sense of belonging than about any inherent truths about cycling--people want to be able to feel &quot;in the club&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the variety within cycling, any universal philosophy would be limited to the vague notion of self-powered locomotion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T17:43:47.683" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T17:43:47.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-05T17:48:02.663" Score="4" ViewCount="4614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of getting my Cannondale CAAD serviced, which I reckon is from about 2006 (I got it second hand). I have had the rear cassette and chain replaced, like for like, but the bike shop say the Shimano 105 9-Speed rear derailleur jockey wheels are very worn and may contribute to gear slippage and poor gear changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find jockey wheels specifically for the old 9-Speed 105 derailleur. Will the &quot;Shimano RD 5700 Jockey Wheels&quot; for the newer Shimano 105 10-Speed derailleurs be okay for use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6551" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T05:10:24.827" Title="What Shimano jockey wheels are compatible with my old Shimano 105 9-Speed Derailleur?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15049" CreationDate="2013-04-05T18:35:04.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The UCI has subsequently clarified that the rule extends to ALL&#xA;  UCI-licensed riders, even those not associated with a UCI team. This&#xA;  rule only pertains to those riders holding an international/UCI&#xA;  license.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See Reference on Rules Clarification from UCI/USAC:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacycling.org/clarification-of-uci-rule-12019-and-related-sanctions.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.usacycling.org/clarification-of-uci-rule-12019-and-related-sanctions.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what it boils down to  is that if you're just a USA Cycling licensed rider, but do not hold an international UCI license, then this rule does not apply. If you do hold an international UCI license, then it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Update:&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the rule will not be enforced this year, 2013 and is planned to be enforced in 2014.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The UCI listened to the feedback from the various groups involved and who feel affected by a strict and immediate enforcement of rule 1.2.019 and its associated sanctions. The UCI has decided to postpone strict enforcement of rule 1.2.019 in 2013 with the expectation that all stakeholders (National Federations, race directors, teams and riders) will discuss and do what is necessary to prepare for the rule’s full enforcement in 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacycling.org/update-on-uci-rule-12019.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.usacycling.org/update-on-uci-rule-12019.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T16:58:47.937" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T16:58:47.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-05T20:05:03.080" Score="5" ViewCount="46910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Carreras centos limited edition mountain bike. I want to find out how to make my suspension bouncier and I want to experience a MUCH more comfortable ride. I have tried fiddling around with the knobs that say preload on them but it isn't making the ride any different. I am quite small and I don't know whether that is affecting the suspensions bounciness. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6553" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T00:27:02.503" Title="Why isn't my suspension bouncy?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15121" CreationDate="2013-04-05T20:25:33.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know any community bike shops in the Netherlands, never really heard it this although I understand what you mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What you will find, is a Repair Café.&lt;/strong&gt; It's a place where people get together helping each other repair their stuff. Often there's tools of all kinds and you can usually bring a bike too. It has a big community aspect; you can use each others knowledge or tools and repair together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find them on &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://repaircafe.nl/bezoeken/&quot;&gt;repaircafe.nl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. There you have a Google Map which, although the website is in Dutch, you'll be able to use. There is more than 5 cafés in central Amsterdam. Click the link in the pin-popup and you'll get more info and opening times. (There is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://repaircafe.org/&quot;&gt;English version of their website&lt;/a&gt;, but it doesn't contain more than some about.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is almost the same as a community bike shop. Except that a repair café usually has a short moment of coming together (you'll find meeting moments on the website) we as the shop will be open almost all business hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6554" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T20:25:33.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-05T21:32:39.447" Score="5" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work at a bike shop that Slimes tubes.  We have both pre-filled Slime tubes as well as a keg of Slime that we use to fill tubes on customer request.  Unfortunately the tube connected to the pump for the keg of slime seems to clog on a regular basis.  So much so that we've had it clog multiple times within the day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a recommendation for preventing this?  Any special secrets as far as diluting the material or positioning/modifying the apparatus for the Slime keg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6555" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:27:34.450" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:27:34.450" Title="How Can I Prevent Slime Barrel Pumps from Clogging?" Tags="&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15127" CreationDate="2013-04-05T22:28:29.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't done, so try playing with the tire pressures. Many riders assume that you need to inflate them to the maximum psi on the tire. If the pressure is too high the tires tend to bounce off of obstacles instead of rolling over them. If you are light enough, say less than 150 pounds you might be able to run the pressures at 25 or so psi.  Set the front forks up with the lightest amount of dampening possible. By straddling the bike and applying the front brake you can push down on the bars and see how much travel you create.  Make some adjustments and see if the amount the front end dips increases or decreases. Unless you are doing some aggressive drops try to use 2/3 of the travel. That will leave 1/3 to prevent bottoming out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T22:28:29.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15127" CreationDate="2013-04-06T00:15:57.520" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bouncyness* may not be the appropriate term for the behavior you need from your suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension has two main functions: Shock Absorbing and Dampening. Shock absorbing is what the fork does by compressing, allowing the wheel to travel upwards. In this process, kinetic energy from the shock is used to compress either a coil spring or an air spring. Once this has happened, this energy that is &quot;stored&quot; in the spring has to go somewhere, and this happens when the wheel is forced down again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no other mechanism is in action, this energy returns almost at the same speed as it was put in, so it would be transmitted to your hands through the handlebar, giving an unpleasant and dangerous ride. That's where Dampening comes in. Dampening is a mechanism that slows down the shock absorber's return, consuming the stored energy, usually transforming it into heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most forks achieve dampening by having oil reservoirs, pistons and valves. The fork moves oil from one reservoir to the other (from one face of the piston's head to the other) and the flow of oil is partially obstructed by the valves. The oil gets heated a little bit as it is forced through the valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, we can understand the two main adjustments that any decent fork should have. Preload and Rebound Speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preload is HOW STIFF is the suspension, and it's related to how much force must be applied to compress it. More preload means you need more force (apply more weight) to compress the fork by a given distance or travel. Speed Rebound is HOW FAST the fork return to it's uncompressed size after absorbing a shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel that it takes too much force to compress your fork, it means you have too much preload. You mention you are too small (not heavy enough) so it's likely you must turn the preload all the way to the side marked with a minus sign (-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a process to calibrate a fork, and it needs a ruler and possibly an assistant. You must measure SAG. Sag is the amount of travel that the fork compresses by just applying  your weight to the bike in riding position. The user manual for your fork model should contain a table indicating the appropriate sag range for your weight. Preload is adjusted to achieve the desired sag, the more preload, the less sag and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are you weight too little for that fork. If this is the case, there may be some options: Change the spring, or change the fork. Some fork manufacturers sell different springs for some of their fork models, precisely to suit too big or too small riders. Refer to the fork owner's manual, It should bear the information. If you don't have the manual, It may be available from the manufacturer's web site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fork is not serviceable or a softer spring for it is not available, you can change the fork for another one that fits your weight or that can be adjusted accordingly. An AIR fork  may suit perfectly, since the &quot;preload&quot; of an air fork is given by the pressure of the air in the chamber, which obviously can be lowered to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no preload adjuster on an air fork, but there is a valve for adjusting air pressure. They often require a specialized pump to load the air chamber and calibrate it. If you have a local bike shop near you they should be capable of swapping the forks and calibrate the new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must also take into account that you have a front suspension only bike, so you will feel almost zero suspension effect for shocks to the rear wheel, so depending on the terrain you ride, you must learn to act as a suspension for yourself. It also depends on the purpose of your ride: sport, leisure, commuting... as this allows you to choose routes accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A limited option is to use lower tire air pressure, but not to low. Too low pressure may result in a bike that is not very maneuverable and prone to &quot;snake bite&quot; flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;em&gt;A bouncy suspension can be understood as a faulty one, it is a suspension with no dampening or rebound control. It does not absorb the shock, it just stores its energy for a very little while and then returns it. For example, a car without dampener keeps going up and down after hitting a road bump, or you see its tires bouncing like a basket ball after a pot hole. A suspension with this condition is risky because it allows the tire to loose contact with road, leading to loss of control of the vehicle/bike&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2014-06-30T02:55:17.893" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T02:55:17.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15127" CreationDate="2013-04-06T00:21:41.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that bike comes with an entry level Suntour fork. Honestly, there's not a whole lot you're going to be able to do with it to make it &quot;bouncier&quot;, especially if you're a lighter rider. If you've turned up the preload, turn it all the way back down. Turning up the preload is only going to make the fork stiffer.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Keep in mind that your suspension should not be really bouncy in the first place, regardless of what the components providing the suspension are. You want to find an adequate balance of bump compliance and pedaling efficiency. If you set your fork to be too soft (likely not an issue with your current setup) you're likely to end up with poor pedaling efficiency, unresponsive steering, and even the risk of bottoming out your fork which can not only damage the fork in extreme cases, but it will also throw you off of your line, if not your bike.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's important to note that hardtails can also feel much more harsh than a full suspension bike, especially if you're not used to riding a bike with suspension and expect it to smooth out more bumps that the suspension is actually designed for. While the front wheel will eat bumps to varying extents, the back wheel won't do nearly as much (depending on tire size and pressure) and every bump you hit with the rear wheel will still jar your hands and wrists.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So to summarize, my suggestion is you turn the preload all the way down and be happy with what you have. There's not much you can do beyond that without replacing the fork with something more adjustable, and therefore more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T00:21:41.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15129" CreationDate="2013-04-06T01:33:37.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no way of knowing if this will work with Slime but I have done something similar in industrial applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a &quot;T&quot; fitting and two shutoff valves. Install the valves on to the &quot;T&quot;,one on the bottom port of the &quot;T&quot; and the other to a side port. Install the side port valve on the Slime hose as close to the pump as possible. Connect the remaining Slime hose to the remaining side port of the &quot;T&quot;. Attach a compressed airline to the bottom port valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fill a tire shut off the bottom port valve. Open the side port valve. Fill the tire as you did before. When your done shut off the Slime pump and close the side port valve. Open the bottom port valve and apply enough compressed air to blow the remaining Slime from the Slime fill hose. The Slime in the hose that is between the pump and the valve should stay liquid as it has no exposure to air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T17:35:13.367" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T17:35:13.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15141" CreationDate="2013-04-06T11:20:08.947" Score="1" ViewCount="734" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are going to do a bike tour through France and Spain with a friend at the end of the summer. I was wondering what is the best option for a gps. Ideally we want something with the ability to display maps. I know that sometimes it is possible to download some free ones off the internet (the ones they sell are really expensive!). Anyone has experience with this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget is limited so I don't know if I can afford a Garmin 800 or even a 705. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other priority is that it should have a more or less decent battery life. I personally prefer AA battery in case I cannot charge it somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, has anyone used an iPhone for such a task? My friend has one. I can immediately think of a couple of drawbacks. First, the danger of breaking such an expensive gadget. Second, consuming all the battery very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do mountaineering and trekking in the mountains as well so perhaps I wouldn't mind spending a bit more if I get something that I can later use on those trips as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3298" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T07:01:47.690" Title="GPS with maps for touring / using an iPhone" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;maps&gt;&lt;iphone&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15134" CreationDate="2013-04-06T12:28:18.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an iPhone or an Android phone there are various free options, some based on OpenStreetMaps, but even Google's own solution is excellent. For google maps you can download areas to store locally (for those areas you know you will have no connectivity) and it is free!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm playing a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ingress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ingress&lt;/a&gt; at the moment, which requires 10 - 20 hour stints with my phone continuously running GPS, with the screen on (ie very high load) and my solution to the power problem was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/EasyAcc-12000mAh-External-Universal-Blackberry/dp/B0098EO61S/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1365251098&amp;amp;sr=8-8&amp;amp;keywords=12000%20mah%20battery%20pack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this 12,000 mAh battery pack from Amazon&lt;/a&gt;. It is only a little larger than my Galaxy S3 so sometimes I hold it with the phone, or I pop it in my rucksack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T12:28:18.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2013-04-06T15:12:26.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the organisation where I worked, it wasn't a case of the right hand not knowing what the left hand was doing; the right hand often didn't know what the RIGHT hand was doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of bicycle pedals, the right foot knows that the right-hand thread is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the other suggestions, and simply for letting me find out which way they go (I worked in a bicycle shop 50 years ago, shame on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6559" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T15:12:26.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15139" CreationDate="2013-04-06T15:22:48.343" Score="3" ViewCount="1336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been in the process of upgrading my bike a bit. A friend of mine convinced me to upgrade my brakes from my stock Shimanos to some disc brakes. After having a look around and asking question, I decided on getting some Avid BB7 disc brakes with 180mm rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did however have one concern, and that was that the mounts on the back of the bike frame might not be correct for mounting the caliper. However I was able to affix the calipers, but they seem to be in an awkward position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caliper and rotor however seem to be functioning together normally (&lt;em&gt;I however have not yet connected the brake line to the caliper, so this is just a bit of speculation&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MkxPp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View of bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u2Tu9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;View of calipers on bike frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the caliper mounted correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could with a bit of wiggle redirect my brake line down the central post and along the lower section of the frame to the calipers, however from the several frames I have seen with calipers mounted, the mounts were on the up section of the frame. Does this make a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** As you might notice, the images are upside down....or right side up, depending on your viewpoint (pun not intended)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6558" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T18:24:34.377" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T18:24:34.377" Title="Is my disc brake caliper correctly mounted on the frame?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15140" CreationDate="2013-04-06T16:17:10.093" Score="1" ViewCount="1088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a wheel with an Alfine 8 speed hub which has space for a disk brake.&#xA;I am measuring the dishing by supporting the rim and measuring the distance from the table to the end of the through bolt of the hub, then flipping the wheel over, make the same measurement and then compare. They should be the same so that the hub is in the middle of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now on my third attempt after truing the wheel laterally and vertically I check the dishing and it is leaning towards the right (chain side) by over 1cm, cm not mm. By eyeing the wheel the hub does not look too out of center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question&lt;/strong&gt;: is this method of measuring the dishing suitable for an Alfine hub with disc brake or should I expect some difference between the sides.  Basically the difference is too great to be altered by adjusting the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6411" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T16:46:07.100" Title="dishing on alfine hub" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15137" CreationDate="2013-04-06T16:36:50.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The frame design dictates caliper placement. In your case the mount is between the seat and chain stays. You are correct that the more common method is to run the brake cable along the top tube and down the seat stay. This allows for fewer and less sharp bends in the cable. Running the cable along the toptube and down the seatpost to the chainstay will incorporate two severe bends in the cable. An alternative to this is to run the cable along the front down tube over the bottom bracket along the chain stay. The cable length will be longer than the original but it will minimize the number of bends. You will most likely have to purchase some additional cable stops/brackets for the downtube and the chainstay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T16:36:50.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15138" CreationDate="2013-04-06T16:39:47.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds like it should work, although I would be measuring to the axle nut, not the axle itself, as the axle may not have exactly the same amount sticking out of both sides of the hub (likely not an issue). &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;If the rim is dished to the right then your driveside spokes are too tight and/or your non drive side spokes are too loose. Give everything about a half a turn- driveside loosened, non drive side tightened- and see where it gets you. Also, are you using a spoke tensiometer?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Let me offer an alternate method of getting your wheel trued up without a truing stand which might make things easier for you. Take your wheel (no tire) and drop it in your frame with the bike upside down, or put it in a workstand if you have one. Don't put the chain on. Attach a couple of zip ties to the chainstays or seatstays and cut them short, but not so short that they wont touch the rim. you can rotate the zip ties on the stays to get the closer to or further away from the rim to gauge how close to true you are and you can slide them up and down on the stays to see how close to round your are. That is basically the same way a professional truing stand works. When you are close on one side, flip the wheel around in the dropouts and repeat the process until you're happy with the results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T16:46:07.100" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T16:46:07.100" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15134" CreationDate="2013-04-06T18:26:20.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smartphones are great on the flexibility side (lots of customizeability, different app options, etc) but tend to have a less trustworthy satellite connection and a poor battery life compared to dedicated GPS devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you to consider an eTrex or GPSMap62 if they are in your price range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the actual need of embeddable mapping ability of the device, I have a very old eTrex Venture (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pcdistrict.com/modules/productcatalog/product_images/130234-garmin-etrex-venture-2006.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the grayscale display, green unit one&lt;/a&gt;), which had support only for a somewhat limited set of Points of Interest (not routeable map at all). I had been able to hack some custom-made maps inside of it with softwares such Mapdekode (VERY nerdy, I have to admit), but in the end that all worked fine, with the &quot;thrill of discovery&quot; always present during navigation, since it only showed points and not the roads themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that nowadays such hackings must be easier, and most probably even unnecessary, given the overwhelming amount of WebMaps available at any internet access point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to plan a trip like yours nowadays, I would get a smartphone or tablet to plan the ride the night before in Google Maps, and a mid-level Garmin unit to navigate during the day along the more or less predefined route. Most probably I would even let the GPS turned off in my pocket, turning it on just for quick checks. I have already done that, it's fun and unobtrusive, but most folks think this is too minimalistic...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T18:26:20.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-06T19:35:08.103" Score="1" ViewCount="4308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a simple city bike that needs some new tires. The bike has been fairly hard to ride lately, and I would like to speed it up a bit. The rims are 28' 622x19C, the current tires are 47mm or 1.75' according to the imprint (although 47mm = 1.85').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels like the rolling resistance is too high, compared to similar bikes with thinner tires. Now I've read that thinner tires should have a higher resistance in theory (because there is a larger contact area in rolling direction). But my feeling from comparing several bikes (not MTB or racing, but very similar ones with differnt tires) is that &lt;em&gt;thinner tires feel faster&lt;/em&gt; and seem to have less resistance (probably because thick tires have a larger contact area &lt;em&gt;perpendicular&lt;/em&gt; to the rolling direction - think of a car tire as the extreme case). Note when I say &quot;thinner&quot;, I don't mean like a racing bike, but 37 or 40 mm instead of 47.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how to decide what tires to put on the bike? Will thinner tires (optimally inflated) reduce or increase the percieved resistance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do you think I've just been riding with too low pressure all the time, and the current tire size is fine? If thicker really = faster at optimal pressure as they say, maybe the thicker tires also tempt people to use not enough pressure? Otherwise I can't explain my gut experience that the thick tires feel slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5661" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T11:51:08.537" Title="Tires for 28' city bike (622x19C) to reduce rolling resistance?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-06T23:18:34.440" Score="13" ViewCount="28279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disassembled my rear derailleur to clean it; when I removed the sprockets they basically looked the same; both jet black and caked with all sorts of black grease-like-stuff.  I figured they were the same so didn't pay attention.  However, after a bit of cleaning they turned out to be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bIOnq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bIOnq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear derailleur sprockets and bushings. On the left, a sprocket with a metal bushing. On the right, an all-plastic sprocket.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One has a metal bushing, says Centeron G-Pulley, and seems a bit beefier.  Which is the top/guide/jockey pulley, which is the bottom/idler?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6561" LastEditorUserId="6561" LastEditDate="2020-06-30T15:58:27.360" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T15:58:27.360" Title="Which pulley is which on my Shimano STX RC derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15143" CreationDate="2013-04-06T23:40:24.417" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your photo, the left pulley (beefier, with metal bushing) is the top one, which goes closer to the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that because that's how things were in every shimano derailer I had over the years, and I think that makes pretty much sense, since the beefier pulley (the upper one) actually shifts the gears, while the bottom, thinner one is only an idler that keeps the chain tensioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the &quot;centeron G&quot; stuff, I have no idea what this means...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T23:40:24.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2013-04-07T02:06:30.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To tighten, turn the way the wheels turn when you're moving forwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To loosen, turn the way the wheels turn when you're moving backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works for both 15mm spanners and the assorted hex down the spindle designs you see these days, with no confusion possible.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T02:06:30.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15142" CreationDate="2013-04-07T02:25:37.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced 2.0 (50mm) Schwalbe Marathons for 1.35 ones, and that made an ABSURD difference in my roling resistence. I was feeling burnt out by commuting, and since then I started to feel &quot;exercised&quot;, getting to destination much faster and/or with less effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I got a bike with 700x23 tires, and THAT is good, concerning speed and low effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I think is very important: these skinny tires work fine, even with not-ideal road condition, if the bike has a more performance-oriented position (a firmer grasp on the handlebar - which is lower - , less weight on the saddle). If you take a more upright citybike (the first bike I described), the extra speed gained from thinner (not skinny) tires can make the bike too uncomfortable if road condition is not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also heard those theories about &quot;balloon is the new fast&quot;, but that seems very non-scientific, since the &quot;studies&quot; never describe the parameters that varied versus those that remained constant, not to say other methodologic steps. As for me, narrower is obviously always faster (which doesn't mean always better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(by the way, I think 32mm is a good number to try)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T02:25:37.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15142" CreationDate="2013-04-07T02:29:45.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't indicate what pressure you're carrying, or what sort of tread you have.  Pressure and tread are a bigger factor in rolling resistance than tire width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a given pressure, a tire will have essentially the same &quot;footprint&quot; area, regardless of its width.  And, to a first approximation (and ignoring tread), rolling resistance is proportional to footprint area.  For a given tire width there is a range of feasible pressures, but that range generally spans about a factor of two, and a narrower tire will have a higher max pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the heavier/knobbier the tread on the tire, the higher the rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your current tire is probably limited (sidewall rating) to about 50psi.  Dropping down to a 35mm tire you can get up to 80-110psi (depending on the tire).  In addition, you likely have a fairly knobby tire.  You don't need a &quot;slick&quot;, but look for tires that have a &quot;bald spot&quot; down the middle with tread on either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T02:29:45.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2013-04-07T06:03:18.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple way to never be in doubt is just put the crankarm with the pedal you want to &lt;strong&gt;remove&lt;/strong&gt; in the forward position (3 o clock), attach the wrench, and &lt;strong&gt;pull up&lt;/strong&gt; towards yourself. You can even put your foot on the pedal while doing this if it is hard to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6562" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T06:03:18.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15118" CreationDate="2013-04-07T09:50:12.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I got my bike the shop did a really good fit, and when I went back complaining of pain here and there, they changed things around to make sure I was ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brother didn't have such good service as he bought his bike from a bigger and busier bike store in London.  He rode it for more than six months before getting a professional bikefit for 120 pounds.  Not cheap but he said the improvement was immediately obvious almost like he was a different (and better) bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially useful if you have non standard body geometry.  You can also adjust the fit to your specifications, racing, endurance, comfort etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot specifically recommend one, but a Google search revealed a number of options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freespeed.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.freespeed.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/bike-fitting-in-london/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/bike-fitting-in-london/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T09:50:12.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15159" CreationDate="2013-04-07T14:13:18.130" Score="3" ViewCount="950" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are numerous safety standards for bicycle helmets available, but which certification is the most stringent one in terms of safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T13:28:43.423" Title="Which is the most stringent bicycle helmet certification?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-07T15:51:02.297" Score="6" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to mechanical/passive deterrents (locks, chains, etc.), what electronic/active bicycle theft deterrents exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* My dear bicycle was stolen two weeks ago and I then vowed to dedicate my life to the eradication of cycle theft. I calmed down since, but am still interested in knowing what's out there.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6566" LastEditorUserId="11270" LastEditDate="2014-05-14T14:31:48.067" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T14:31:48.067" Title="Are there electronic/active theft deterrents for bicycles?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15151" CreationDate="2013-04-07T18:08:03.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The commonest appears to be that pictured in the first image below, which makes a loud noise if your bike is messed with, but other vibration-sensitive alarms are out there. I also saw the chain-lock with built-in alarm in the second image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So sorry about your bike loss!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ki7v5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vibration-activated alarm&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Udzah.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain lock with built-in alarm&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T18:08:03.527" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15151" CreationDate="2013-04-07T18:10:53.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with this site and can't vouch for them, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://dx.com/s/bike+alarm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these guys&lt;/a&gt; have a bunch of them.  And so does &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&amp;amp;field-keywords=bicycle%20alarm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, which I can vouch for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T18:10:53.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15150" CreationDate="2013-04-07T19:42:17.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a little Googling &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/standard.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; has the opinion that Sneel has the toughest standards.  To elaborate some more, the Snell standard specifies higher drop heights, but the really interesting thing I found out from reading is that the Snell standard is the only one that takes helmets purchased at retail and tests those. This forces manufacturers to have good quality control standards, as they might have to recall a helmet model if it is found to be non-compliant.  Although the article states that they do not know of any such cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T13:28:43.423" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T13:28:43.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15150" CreationDate="2013-04-08T03:04:51.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Snell is touted as having the most stringent standards, but they apparently cost the most/require the most samples for testing as well so many manufacturers simply pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T03:04:51.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2013-04-08T04:48:53.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried all the usual and got a nice spring tune up out of the deal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing worked  - then, on a whim, I detached the pedals from the crank arms, greased them a bit, then tightened them back up- problem gone... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;who woulda guessed, the actual piece my foot was touching was doing the creaking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6569" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T04:48:53.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15151" CreationDate="2013-04-08T08:37:03.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get GPS trackers for bikes, just like cars and motorbikes. The good ones warn you immediately when your bike starts moving (eg via text message to your phone) and you can see where it is on a map for recovery (you might want to call the police rather than tackle thieves yourself). Of course the downside to GPS trackers is than they stop working if the bike is put in the back of a van.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A google search should give you plenty of results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6407" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T08:37:03.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15150" CreationDate="2013-04-08T11:28:28.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To test a bicycle helmet you attach it to dummy head and drop it from a height onto a solid object. The acceleration experienced by the head is measured, if the acceleration is too high the helmet fails. Stringency of the impact test depends on how high you drop the helmet from and the maximum acceleration you allow for a pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a comparison of the various standards &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/stdcomp.htm#IMPACT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Snell B95&lt;/strong&gt; uses the largest drop (2.2m) and is the most stringent on that count, although it allows acceleration of 300g. Other tests (e.g. Canada, Europe) have a lower limit on acceleration, but the drop heights for these standards are also lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a helmet that is Snell certified and also Canadian or European certified then go with that. If not, then just Snell certified is probably the best bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T11:28:28.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-08T12:34:06.190" Score="0" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so I've been riding bike since I was as young as I can remember. Now I'm 18 and I've been given a fixie. But I know nothing about bikes I've always just ridden them and brought them to a shop when they broke. The fixie I have is basic and when people ask what ratio I run and other things like, &quot;What cogs have you got?&quot;. I've tried searching online but I can't find a definitive guide to fixies. Can someone please give me a basic run down of how to improve my lingo and understanding of bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6572" LastEditorUserId="5371" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T22:01:50.690" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T22:01:50.690" Title="I'm lost with all the names of bike parts flying around!" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15160" CreationDate="2013-04-08T13:30:32.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index&quot;&gt;terminology index&lt;/a&gt;. It doesn't apply just to fixies, but a lot of the parts on either kind of bike are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T13:30:32.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15151" CreationDate="2013-04-08T13:41:03.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a kickstarter for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1054587410/the-bikespike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeSpike&lt;/a&gt;, which is a gps beacon that attaches to your bottle cage mounts.  It seems like a good way to track your bike if it goes missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T13:41:03.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15164" CreationDate="2013-04-08T14:01:15.360" Score="3" ViewCount="4353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1963 Sears cruiser, three speed, which I bought very recently. On my third ride, the middle speed stopped working, and went loose; there wasn't any &quot;traction&quot; when I pedaled. It happened as I rode in a particularly hilly part of town. I'm new to biking, so perhaps I shifted gears at the wrong time? The highest and lowest gears still work fine, only the middle speed doesn't work. &#xA;Before buying this bike, the mechanic realized that the lowest gear had this same problem, and fixed it pretty quickly. Do I simply need to tighten or loosen the changing mechanism? Or do I need to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6574" LastEditorUserId="6574" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T14:07:12.270" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T04:06:57.093" Title="Rear internal hub won't shift gears" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15163" CreationDate="2013-04-08T14:26:03.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried changing the tension on the shifting cable? There's usually a tension adjuster on the outside of the hub. It's unlikely to hurt, and it's easy to do. I'd tighten a little at a time until all the gears work well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't do it, you may need to have the hub looked at. There could be some dirt inside the hub (it happens, even with &quot;sealed&quot; units.) Or it could be a mechanical issue; getting an internally geared hub fixed can take time and money. If you end up doing this, I'd look for a shop that knows what it's doing; it can be a little tricky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T04:06:57.093" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T04:06:57.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15175" CreationDate="2013-04-08T14:36:14.560" Score="10" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a resource comparing different safety statistics for transporting babies on bicycles, specifically using different methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to see some information about how safe it is to compare a baby in a bike seat vs. in a trailer vs. in a box bike. Intuitively trailers seem to have the least risk of a fall, but might be more likely to be hit by an inattentive motorist. I've looked and I can't find any data about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T18:53:11.727" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T13:01:56.707" Title="Baby Transportation Safety Statistics" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;children&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-08T16:04:03.447" Score="12" ViewCount="5145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am moving to Ojen Spain for work for 3 months and will be biking to marbella and back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have put the ride into mapmyride.com and it says that the ride is a cat 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Climb  Start    End      Length   Start Elev  End Elev  Avg Grade&#xA;Cat 2  0.00 mi  3.44 mi  3.44 mi   80 ft      1073 ft   5.5%&#xA;Cat 5  4.34 mi  4.95 mi   .61 mi  920 ft      1034 ft   3.5%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a stranger to road bikes, I worked as a messenger when I was a kid and used a bike for commuting just about everywhere I have ever lived.  I started riding again about a month ago on a stationary going as hard as the thing will let me for an hour at a time to at least try to acclimate my legs a bit again.  (can't ride in Dubai really, you will end up as a hood ornament)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much will this climb affect me in the beginning?  I know this is subjective and everyone is different.  I don't expect this to be easy at first, I guess I am just wondering if this hill will absolutely destroy me in the beginning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking because it is sight unseen and I haven't ridden in probably 5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6576" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T21:42:33.360" LastActivityDate="2018-02-03T15:02:03.620" Title="How hard is a category 2 climb?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15165" CreationDate="2013-04-08T16:25:38.237" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although not having any statistics to bring up, I have experience carrying a kid with me (my stepson), mostly in a rear rack home-made &quot;chair&quot; (between 5 and 7 years old), with two test-rides in a trailing bike and lots of km on a tandem (last three years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with kids smaller than 4 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think some PRINCIPLES are valid for whatever child-carrying system, and these would be, in my opinion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The closer the kid is to the parent, the better;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The closer the bid is to &quot;the center of the bike&quot;, the better (incidentally, this ends up being equivalent to the first principle);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kids should not be ejected from their seat;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kids should not remain &quot;trapped&quot; in their seat after a fall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides that, I think there is a compulsory speed limit depending on age. For example, for under one year old, I think 10mph is the absolute maximum acceptable speed under ideal conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For toddlers and very young babies, I think the main concern is protection from mechanical shock, and ability to keep it under your eyes, preferrably with eye contact. In the event of braking, the seat must provide support. In that sense, the following &quot;concepts&quot; seems UTTERLY INAPPROPRIATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e4Wom.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kids are not bumpers!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of this freak, a solution similar to the photo below (a plain ol' bakfiets) is much better for the adult and for the kid, not to mention that it's almost impossible to eject the kid or use it as a bumper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iftV4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For kids that can hold a steady seating posture, but are still imature or unpredictable, I think the classic &quot;behind the stem&quot; position, although uncomfortable for the rider, is the preferred one because the kid surely feels protected, conversation is direct, and the kid have &quot;nowhere to fall&quot; without the adult holding her. That is a position with a fairly low speed limit, too, and I think a front-suspension/fat-tire combination can ease things a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, from about 4yo until 7yo, the last step before the kid can ride his own bike or a tandem would be a rear seat. This is a situation where is desireable to allow a bit more of clearance between the kid's face and the adult's back, due to braking and also visibility. Communication is a bit harder, but the overall sensation is quite safe and stable, PROVIDED the bike has the &quot;natural talent&quot; to carry weight on the rear (which rule out almost any sport/race oriented bike). A longer seat stay, rigid rack brazeons, and a generous trekking rack are most desireable. Long tail bikes are the ideal solution, but shouldn't be actually necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until here, I haven't come close to answering your question, but from the most common alternatives, the one I wouldn't adopt at all (although I have some biker friends who have done so) is the baby trailer, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.burley.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Burley&lt;/a&gt; style, because if anything happens to the kid (even if she calls for help), she is too far from you, and in a position that you cannot reach untill a complete stop, coming out of the bike, etc. Not to mention the WORST problem: the kid being a bumper, gometrically WAY BELOW the average height of CAR bumpers... (I would not like to see the statistics of car/baby-trailer collisions, but the very scene of it creeps me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T16:25:38.237" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15166" CreationDate="2013-04-08T16:47:52.960" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;For someone who hasn't been riding much, this climb will be brutal. But you'll be surprised at how quickly you'll make progress. Even though you might fail the first time you go up, this ride seems like a great challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year I coaxed a friend to start riding again. After a half dozen easier rides, we attempted a mountain climb similar to the ride you're describing. On his first attempt, he only made it about a mile up. On his second attempt, he made it to the top, and on the third attempt, he made it up without weaving all over the road. When you think about it, it's amazing how quickly you can rise to the challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably impossible to adequately prepare on a stationary bike because the feeling of a real climb is different. It will definitely help if your aerobic fitness is already pretty good, but a stationary bike can't really prepare you for the feeling that you're about to start rolling backwards even though you're pushing as hard as you can. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the gearing on your bike will make a big difference. If you can find a bike with a &quot;compact double&quot; or triple crankset, then you'll have an easier low gear available to you, which will make for a more enjoyable ride. A low gear will let you pedal at a faster rate which will avoid wearing out your knees or leg muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T16:55:00.633" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T16:55:00.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-08T20:39:05.663" Score="-2" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been needing a new bike and I need some help with what kind of bike I should purchase. I plan on riding on mainly paved side walks but when traffic is bad I need it to endure riding over curbs and in grass. I want it to handle long rides. I guess I want more of a commuter road bike. I don't really know the price range for a good bike, I just want the cheapest bike possible without it being cheap in quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6577" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T04:05:28.930" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T20:53:14.143" Title="Looking for the right bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15160" CreationDate="2013-04-08T21:50:33.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with you. I have 2 road bikes, 1 mountain and 1 fixie. In terms of understanding the bike - not just the terminology but understanding parts, sizes etc. - the fixie has taken up more of my time than all the others put together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is that although the bike itself is a simpler arrangement (i.e. no derailleurs to worry about), there appear to be far more variations. Also I find that when I need to make purchases I'm looking at very niche shops, rather than just popping down to my lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might help you to look at a couple of the specialist web sites I look at - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velosolo.co.uk/intro.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velosolo&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tokyofixed.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tokyo Fixed&lt;/a&gt;. These are both vendors (and both uk-based) so probably not quite what you're after. But in terms of terminology they should still be quite helpful. Plenty of photos with descriptions etc. Velosolo in particular has some good FAQs in addition to the &quot;shop&quot; bit.....but note that even they refer to Sheldon!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T21:58:14.677" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T21:58:14.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15169" CreationDate="2013-04-09T06:32:16.430" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A road bike is going to be your best bet. I have been using my $300 mountain bike, but they need to be repaired so frequently I have switched to a road bike. &#xA;As for cheap, Craigslist has always been a preference of mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6579" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T06:32:16.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15173" CreationDate="2013-04-09T07:30:58.903" Score="21" ViewCount="68354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to a bike shop for new tires. I did not know which tires fit on my bike, so I just showed them my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took a look at the new tires, there was a label at the side, which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;40-622 (700x38C-28x1 5/8 x 1 1/2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do all these numbers mean? I am asking for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would like to find the right tires for my bike in the future myself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When buying another bike, I would like to buy one where I can use this tires as well &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T03:47:16.647" Title="What does the label on a tire mean?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15172" CreationDate="2013-04-09T09:04:30.227" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 40 is the inflated width in mm and the 622 is the internal diameter in mm. It's the international standard ISO-5775 for tire sizes. In brackets are the French size (700mm outer diameter x 38mm width) and the Inch size (28 outer diameter x 1 5/8 height x 1 1/2 width)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_5775&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has a very detailed explanation of tire sizes and designations, I confirmed my answer on this page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T09:04:30.227" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15184" CreationDate="2013-04-09T09:36:51.163" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently riding Conti GP4000S tyres, in 700x23mm version, inflated at 115 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grip is great, the (light)weight is amazing. I have punctured twice with them (in 1500 km) which is more that I would hope, but I can live with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, when I look at my tyres, I see minor cuts on the tread. Nothing major but let's just say that any time I am stopped at traffic lights, and I look down, I can see at least a &quot;wound&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I run the risk of increasing the number of punctures? are those tires really too road-training-oriented to use them for commuting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like Continental, I like the 23mm format, I like this (lack of) weight. So I was considering 4Seasons which are a few grams heavier but offer an extra layer of protection against puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have plans for a long ride (~150 km) and would want to avoid more than 1 puncture in the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T08:29:30.130" Title="Continental 4Seasons vs 4000S" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15165" CreationDate="2013-04-09T11:02:30.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this article - &lt;a href=&quot;http://archpedi.jamanetwork.com/article.aspx?articleid=348997&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tykes and Bikes - Injuries Associated With Bicycle-Towed Child Trailers and Bicycle-Mounted Child Seats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper estimates the numbers of trailer-related injuries and the number of child seat injuries:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;there were an estimated 322 injuries associated with the use of a bicycle-towed trailer (95% CI, 158-486) and an estimated 2015 injuries related to the use of a bicycle-mounted child seat (95% CI, 988-3042).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper notes that there is some uncertainty around these statistics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The data indicate the incidence of injury associated with the use of either bicycle accessory was low. However, injuries related to use of bicycle-towed child trailers were much less common (estimated 322 vs 2015). We do not know if this is because there are fewer bicycle-towed child trailers, resulting in lower exposure, or if there is truly a lower risk of injury associated with bicycle-towed child trailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="1509" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T13:01:56.707" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T13:01:56.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15166" CreationDate="2013-04-09T14:53:46.157" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difficulty of any climb will depend on its length, steepness, wind speed and wind direction, the total weight of you and your bike, and, of course, your fitness and your intended speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stephen Touset has thoughtfully provided a link that shows the elevation profile for the climb. The grade appears to be relatively even rather than a series of steeper and flatter &quot;stair steps&quot; so with a few other assumptions we can put some bounds on how much power you would need to produce to climb from Marbella to Ojen at different speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power equation has four main parts &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9938/how-can-one-estimate-drag-for-a-bicycle&quot;&gt;as was described in this bicycles.stackexchange post&lt;/a&gt;: a part that describes the power needed to overcome rolling resistance, a part describing the power needed to overcome changes in elevation (potential energy), a part describing the power needed to overcome changes in speed (kinetic energy), a part describing the power needed to overcome aerodynamic drag. When climbing a hill, of course, the potential energy component dominates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using assumptions about rolling resistance, aerodynamic drag area, air density, and weight that are in the &quot;normal&quot; range, we can therefore make a ballpark estimate the total power needed. The estimate won't be exact but it should give you an idea of the power required. Further, I have divided total power by an estimated body weight to get &quot;watts/kg&quot; which is a standard way to describe an athlete's power production. Tour de France riders can maintain 6.0 watts/kg for a considerable length of time, a domestic pro racer may average 5.0 watts/kg, a very fit recreational racer may average 4 watts/kg, and a commuter riding home after a long day's work might be able to maintain 1.5 - 2.0 watts/kg. Finally, I have converted speed into the number of minutes needed to travel 5.9 miles while climbing a steady 4.8% slope. The plot below summarizes this information, with the x-axis showing the number of minutes and the y-axis showing the output in watts standardized by body mass in kg. If you can average 4 watts/kg, it will take around 25 minutes for the climb. If you average 1.5 watts/kg, it will take about an hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOOwN.png&quot; alt=&quot;marbella to ojen, watts/kg at different time durations&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1210/how-are-the-categories-for-climbs-decided/7869#7869&quot;&gt;this bicycles stackexchange post&lt;/a&gt; shows examples of Category 2 climbs from recent Tours de France. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, for example, is are the categorized climbs from the 2012 Tour. At 5.9 miles (9.5 km) and 4.8%, the Marbella-Ojen climb would evidently fit right into category 2.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XDtAV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T04:04:29.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15047" CreationDate="2013-04-09T15:49:37.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that the savings in power is still relatively modest. When racing, even small benefits can accrue to determine victory or loss, but for normal recreational riding you may want to keep the magnitude of lighter wheels vs more aero wheels in mind, especially if your budget is limited. Only you can decide whether the relative benefit is cost effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6582" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T15:49:37.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15180" CreationDate="2013-04-09T16:19:32.760" Score="2" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a &amp;quot;third eye&amp;quot; type bike mirror on my helmet for years.  However, recently I have learned of some genetic predisposition to certain types of skin cancer which affect the skin on the face/head and have become more cautious about how I approach the sun.  As a result, I have taken to wearing a protective &amp;quot;sun drape&amp;quot; but I wound up having to modify it because even with my helmet and the drape, part of my face is still exposed to the sun at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the consequence of this is that when my face is fully protected from the sun the protective drape sticks out a bit and I can no longer see the third-eye mirror.  I'm not okay with using sunscreen instead, so I have been experimenting with other ways of mounting the mirror, but have not been able to find any that work - for instance, mounting the mirror on the side of the helmet away from the sun results in my not being able to see the important part of the road due to my back being in the way, and all the mirrors I have tried that attach to the bike I can't see when I'm hunched over the bike for speed and in most need of a quick check of the traffic behind me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea I had was perhaps a strip mirror under the top of my helmet's visor might work, but I haven't seen anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M6MtA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M6MtA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt; from&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.coolibar.com/unisex-trailhead-hat-drape-upf-50.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.coolibar.com/unisex-trailhead-hat-drape-upf-50.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2021-05-16T06:47:54.600" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T06:47:54.600" Title="Sun protective clothing interfering with bike mirror" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;mirrors&gt;&lt;sun-protection&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15179" CreationDate="2013-04-09T17:43:33.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a balaclava that's somewhat loose, and gives me the same problems. I assume the fabric of the sun drape is both interfering with the mirror as well as cutting out a bit of your peripheral vision? If this is the case, then we have the same problem. You have, essentially, three choices: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What works for me is to simply pull the clava tighter against my head. This pulls the fabric out of my peripheral vision and allows unobstructed view of my &quot;third eye&quot; mirror. This may not be completely optimal for you, as it may expose a little more skin outside of your eyes, but it's a very slight difference. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to simply get a better-fitting sun drape. Just as tighter clavas don't cause this problem with me, I assume it will work for you too. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A third choice is to simply use another kind of mirror. A helmet-mounted mirror with a longer arm or a bar-mounted mirror may work. You'll find more about other styles of mirrors in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/14965/8&quot;&gt;this question about mirror options&lt;/a&gt;, helpfully linked to in the comments above. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T21:31:00.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15183" CreationDate="2013-04-09T19:03:19.883" Score="7" ViewCount="888" Body="&lt;p&gt;My eyesight isn't so good so I'm more reliant on my ears to let me know that there's traffic close by.  Normally I'm fine, but at higher speeds, the noise of wind blowing past my ears can obscure the sound of car engines, so I get a bit less warning when there's something near, especially of drivers coming up from behind.  As far too many drivers coming up from behind are really inconsiderate and pass too close when overtaking or tailgate you, not knowing that there's someone coming up is something of a problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I deal with reducing wind noise so I can hear my surroundings more clearly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T21:32:39.003" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T18:11:54.933" Title="wind noise obscuring traffic noise" Tags="&lt;noise&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15213" CreationDate="2013-04-09T23:10:27.410" Score="8" ViewCount="11583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a 1972 steel frame bike year round through Canadian winters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got the bike it was in good shape, but after putting a few thousand km worth of commuting on it, it has a lot of scratches in the paint - mostly from things like road salt getting kicked up at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the course of the last winter, despite my best efforts, many of these spots started to rust. I can remove most of the rust spots with careful application of steel wool, but I'm now a little worried about the structural integrity of the bike. I notice some creaking when I shift more of my weight to the bars for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I tell whether a bike with &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; rust damage is still safe to ride on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T14:21:44.417" Title="How can I determine whether rust has made my bike unsafe?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;rust&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15181" CreationDate="2013-04-09T23:20:02.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a product called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cat-ears.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cat ears&lt;/a&gt; (reviewed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/article/cat-ears-wind-noise-reduction-first-look-35984/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) that claim to reduce wind noise. They attach to your helmet straps and disrupt the flow of wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also found that headbands worn over the ears help a lot. Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/R7WAEN8E1/title/route7-ear-warmers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; are good. I even wear them in summer as they help stop sweat running into your eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T23:20:02.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15174" CreationDate="2013-04-09T23:55:03.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyre management is tricky. I also notice the gashes and cuts in the tyre. Also if you take your tyre off and look really closely (while bending the rubber back and forth) you'll find heaps of glass and metal embedded in the tyre. If you were really keen to extend the life of your tyres you can go through and pick out all the junk you can find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally replace my tyres when the frequency of punctures gets too high. Over time it happens more regularly until I get sick of it and buy new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a longer lasting tyre, I've had good experience with Continental Gatorskins. I generally run 4000S's on the front for the amazing grip, and Gatorskins on the back for longer life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T23:55:03.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15179" CreationDate="2013-04-10T00:22:16.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is complicated.  The farther from the eye a mirror is, the larger it must be to provide an adequate field of view.  This is one of the (several) reasons that bar-mounted mirrors are often unsatisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you stick with helmet-mounted, you do want to get the largest mirror you can find, and one with a relatively long arm, so you can get it as far out to the left as possible.  But I find that even without any helmet covering, this doesn't quite allow me to see around the helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is aim the mirror so that, when I'm looking straight ahead, the mirror gives me a view of the left shoulder of the road.  Then, when I want to observe traffic behind me, I turn my head slightly to the left.  This give me a view behind, and the turning of the head adds sufficient leftward extension to the mirror to allow me to clearly see past the helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T13:15:37.523" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T13:15:37.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15181" CreationDate="2013-04-10T04:56:58.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Professional ear protection might help you here. I went to an ear protection company recently, and they told me that they offer three types of ear protection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;free-time ear protection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;musicians ear-protection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;traffic ear-protection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They explained me that traffic ear-protection is designed especially for motorbike-riders, because the wind can get really loud when driving high speeds. They are also certified for use in traffic, because you still hear cars and other traffic sound loud enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like they are what you need. Maybe they can also be used for bicyclists? I would suggest you to visit an ear protection company and ask them for their advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T04:56:58.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12883" CreationDate="2013-04-10T07:06:08.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried both techniques proposed here, but to no avail (I might have damaged the BB with the hammering).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LBS had the tool for the job - &lt;em&gt;experience&lt;/em&gt;. The guys put the wrench in a &lt;strong&gt;vice&lt;/strong&gt;, calculated the direction to unscrew carefully, then put the frame on and just unscrewed the damn thing. The frame was providing large leverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T07:06:08.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15192" CreationDate="2013-04-10T11:34:04.563" Score="3" ViewCount="1601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 9 x 3 speed mountain-bike. The derailleur got broken (and was since lost), I'm trying to find a new one. What do I need to go by to ensure I get a good fit? The rear-casette (sprokets) range from 11 to 32 teeth (there are 9 of them). Is this enough information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was noted that I also need to know the make of the gear-shifter, the one I have is SRAM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6372" LastEditorUserId="6372" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T14:41:40.560" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T14:41:40.560" Title="How do I find the right derailleur (gear-mech)?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15189" CreationDate="2013-04-10T12:31:51.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll also need to know the manufacturer, so that the shifters will be compatible. Most likely it's Shimano, or SRAM. It should be written somewhere on the shift levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T12:31:51.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-10T12:44:36.553" Score="2" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a pugsly setup as tubeless, running endomorph tires, typically I run between 8 and 12 PSI in the tires depending on the conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a significant difference between performance of presta vs schrader valves at these low pressures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T22:36:50.250" Title="Tubeless fatbike setup, does valve choice matter?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15189" CreationDate="2013-04-10T13:25:10.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are not that many firms that produce this type of equipment. The most popular one is shimano, with smaller competitors like SRAM and Campagnolo. SRAM gear is fully compatible with the Shimano one. Camagnolo has its own and is incompatible with Shimano or sram one. Almost all bikes have shimano gear, so I'd suppose you have the shimano stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to know how many gears your cogset has and is irrelevant, how many &quot;teeth&quot; the cogset has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;shimano/sram has different quality lines and differnt sizes. What you need to know is basically, how many gears you had before. These systems vary between (1) up to 8 gears, (2) 9 gears, (3) 10 gears ( and (4) 11 gears?). Shimano and other manufacturers tried to pack up more gears as years went, therefore they had to pack more cogwheels in the same amount of space, therefore all these systems have exactly the same width, and therefore they are completely incompatible between each other, i.e., 8 gear thingy will not work with 9 gear cogset and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know the number of gears (in your case it is nine), you'll have to choose the quality line. This varies from Acera (cheapes) to XTR (most expensive). Up to XT line, you'll get both the weight and the stability increase. Above XT shimano and the others are trading weight for stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you let me know the price of the bike, I'd give you a suggestion for the gear :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6541" LastEditorUserId="6541" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T13:40:10.637" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T13:40:10.637" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-10T14:14:45.147" Score="1" ViewCount="3953" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume I have a couple of closed bearings on some pivots on my bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/2xmyNJf.jpg&quot;/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bearings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are fitted on a housing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have an axle going through them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are tightened by bolts which also have cups to &quot;protect&quot; the black plastic part of the closed bearing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, would you use grease between that black plastic part and the axle cup to protect the bearing from water and dust? I'm talking about a lot of waterproof grease which upon bolt tightening will overflow. Of course I will wipe out any excess after tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking because even if the bearings are of high quality, I will sometimes find that dust or other small particles have entered its inside area making the bearing lose its smoothness and eventually making it wear faster. So, could that extra grease on the outside act as protection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: This question doesn't regard greasing inside the bearing. I'm asking whether puting grease &lt;strong&gt;on&lt;/strong&gt; the bearing, covering the metal and the black part, will prevent water and dust from entering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T06:09:12.757" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T23:57:53.763" Title="greasing closed bearings on the outside" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15195" CreationDate="2013-04-10T14:33:51.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not use a grease for this type of bearing. The grease will stick to the sides and will attract dust and dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I'd use a regular bearing oil to oil it. Usually it is somewhat liquid and the excess of it would just go away after the &quot;greasing&quot;. In Europe one can get the oil from Bosch (for example). I suppose in other parts of the world there are other types of companies specializing in this. But oiling is not your question, is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6541" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T17:10:57.543" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T17:10:57.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15191" CreationDate="2013-04-10T15:38:53.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware, at these pressures, there'll be no difference in performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bigger issue might be the rim. The value hole will be either Shrader or Presta sized and will either not fit a Shrader or be hard work to seal with a Presta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T15:38:53.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15195" CreationDate="2013-04-10T17:51:29.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, that style of bearing (&quot;sealed cartridge bearing&quot;) is &quot;permanently lubricated&quot;.  You do not lubricate them and you replace the entire assembly if anything goes wrong with them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few people have claimed success by gently prying back the flexible gasket and injecting grease with a syringe, but these claims are subject to legitimate skepticism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the inside diameter and the outside diameter are not supposed to move relative to the external parts that hold them.  If they are slipping it indicates that the &quot;holders&quot; are not tight enough or the bearing is failing and needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T17:51:29.353" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15169" CreationDate="2013-04-10T20:53:14.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assumption for all that follows: You're looking for a &lt;em&gt;brand new&lt;/em&gt; bike as opposed to used but new to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the most bang for your buck, a mountain bike is probably the way to go. Mountain bikes are by far the largest portion of the bike production industry and mass production makes them cheap. Their upright geometry and wider tires make them great for getting over curbs, maneuvering around obstacles, riding off-road (or on crappy roads). You can get an introductory level mountain bike from a bike shop for about $350.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step up in price range will be a &quot;commuter&quot; or &quot;multi-purpose&quot; bike. (Both of these are foolish names since &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; bike fits those descriptions.) The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/fitness/fx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek FX&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/multi-use/crossroads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Crossroads&lt;/a&gt; are both perfect examples of this class of bike, but there are plenty of others. These types of bikes will still have that upright mountain bike feel to them, but the larger radius and narrower profile of the tires will make them significantly faster. Also note that both of the bikes I mentioned do not have front shocks. From what you describe, I don't think you need one but similar bikes with shocks do exist. Bikes in this class start out at around $500. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the type of riding you're describing I would recommend a cyclocross &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; a touring bike. They're so similar as to be almost indistinguishable; the most noticeable difference being that touring bikes have more places to mount water bottles and racks. Either of these will be more expensive, but will also be significantly faster than a mountain bike or commuter/multi-purpose bike on almost anything but true cross country trails. The tires will be the same as the ones on the multi-purpose bikes but cyclocross bikes come with knobbier tires, a characteristic which you may find desirable for riding through the grass. If you really want those extra places to mount racks, you can fit knobbies on touring bikes easily enough. You can find cyclocross bikes for $800 but $1000 is more the norm. Touring bikes are almost always $1000-$1500. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally wouldn't recommend a genuine road bike for what you're talking about. It won't handle grass or curbs well at all. Road bikes also tend to be at the more expensive end of the spectrum. You can get cheaper ones, but they sacrifice a lot of quality to get those prices down. Those sacrifices translate into a heavier and more sluggish bike, which is exactly the opposite of what you want in your road bike. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Unless&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; you get an older one on Craigslist or something. Older road bikes have larger tires and are more capable of what you're wanting to do with it. You can also find decent quality older bikes for pretty reasonable prices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are, of course, more exotic options. Folding bikes and cargo bikes and 29ers, oh my! Most of these are going to be pretty expensive and probably not what you're looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also numerous options for everything I've mentioned above. Mountain bikes and commuter/multi-purpose bikes both have the options of shocks. Almost any type of bike has fixed-gear, single-speed, and geared options. You can put slick tires on almost anything. You can put knobbies on pretty much anything but a road bike. Some of these options will bring the price down, most of them will raise it. And a lot of those type of decisions will come down to experience and personal preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T20:53:14.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15191" CreationDate="2013-04-10T21:44:07.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as for the tubes I have used, schrader valves offer a less restrictive air passage, that is they create less resistance (less pressure) on the pump side. That means that for a large volume tire, to be used at low pressure, almost any pump or even a low powered compressor will be a little bit faster. For that reason in particular, I use schreaders in my DH bike (2.5 tires) and prestas in my XC bikes (2.3, 2.1 and even 1.8). I once used presta on my DH, but it took forever to inflate with a hand pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T21:44:07.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15195" CreationDate="2013-04-10T22:03:06.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to other answers, shagging around with the plastic cap is also likely to deform it, letting in more dust and water. This is likely to counter any benefit of getting extra grease into it, therefore doing more damage than leaving it alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bearings are (should be) cheap - they are designed as long life, no maintenance but throw away item - use them how they were designed. Shop around - you don't need to get them from the LBS at Bike Shop prices - its not uncommon to go to bearing specialist and get an identical part for 10th of the price of the branded one. I would be surprised if you went though one set, and stunned if you went though more than a couple of sets in the life of the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really feel compelled to maintain them, the best option is go down to a local bearing supplier, and get identical size open bearings which to can be easily striped and cleaned whenever you feel the inclination, (but at least once a month). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T22:03:06.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-10T22:16:31.100" Score="8" ViewCount="18134" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tire wall tells me that my tires are 26 x 1.95. I bought a 26 x 1.75-2.15 inner tube. When I change the inner tube, though, the tube is bigger than the wheel by two inches. How do I determine inner tube size? Or am I just doing this wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6593" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T12:08:14.230" Title="Complete beginner's question: inner tube too big?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15195" CreationDate="2013-04-10T22:30:11.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The black plastic part that you are referring to is the dust cover.  It is there to protect the bearing from dust and contaminants.  You do not need to protect the dust cover from dust  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you will not need to do anything to a cartridge style bearing.  In fact, a high viscosity grease on the outside of the bearing will likely cause more dust to stick, shortening the life of your bearings.  You can try injecting some low viscosity oil, but you're unlikely to get much into the bearing without removing the dust cap.  If you do remove the dustcap, you probably won't get it back on perfectly, again making it more susceptible to dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it feels like it is getting gritty, it's time to replace it.  As some other users have already pointed out, you will find the best prices and selection of cartridge bearings at a bearing supplier.  If you like to kick it old-skool, look for &quot;bearing supply&quot; in the yellow pages.  If you are hip with the new-fangled tech gizmos, then log onto maps.google.com and search for &quot;bearing supply.&quot;  Whatever butters your muffin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6296" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T22:30:11.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15204" CreationDate="2013-04-10T22:30:16.940" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That tube should be the right size, based on the numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you inflate the inner tube outside of a tire it will generally balloon up quite a bit, becoming quite a bit bigger than the tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When installing a tire and tube you should generally just inflate the tube to the point that it &quot;fills out&quot; -- not really much more pressure than you could blow into it with your mouth.  Then the tube should fit comfortably inside the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a tube is too big in overall diameter there is a danger that it will &quot;telescope&quot; inside the tire (similar to &quot;intussusception&quot; of your intestines), resulting in a lump and, eventually, a split in the tube.  Having the tube inflated too much while installing it is one way you can get this situation.  (The other is simply having a tube that's too large.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T22:30:16.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15191" CreationDate="2013-04-10T22:36:50.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference will be that schrader valves are more susceptible to dirt and debris.  You don't need to leave a plastic cap on the presta valve, but you will definitely want to keep the plastic cap on a schrader.  Since this is a fat bike, you're hopefully riding through some dirt and mud, so I'd go with the presta myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6296" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T22:36:50.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2294" CreationDate="2013-04-11T03:09:24.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a complement to Byron's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blinking too fast would be counter-productive. For instance, a 20 Hz blinking could get fuzzied, and you would end up with the equivalent of a half-powered steady light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://colorusage.arc.nasa.gov/flashing_2.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this NASA study&lt;/a&gt; (&amp;lt;blink&amp;gt;warning: not about traffic&amp;lt;/blink&amp;gt;), the optimal frequency range for catching attention is 4-8 Hz (cycles/second).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NASA also cites &quot;duty cycle&quot;, with an example where the light period is longer than the dark period. This increases overall luminosity, and could be a nice trade-off to both catch the attention and allow distance/speed perception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T03:09:24.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15210" CreationDate="2013-04-11T09:27:01.410" Score="18" ViewCount="15840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to mount my smartphone on my bike's handlebar. However, I am worried about that the vibrations when cycling will damage my smartphone's internal electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am using a trekking bicycle in a city and sometimes travel longer trips with it. The surface I usually ride on is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Asphalt (including rough and bumby asphalt streets)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cobblestones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gravel roads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not doing mountainbiking with it and I am aware of that having an accident with my bike will probably damage my smartphone as well. I also know that &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5968/are-there-advantages-of-dedicated-bike-computer-instead-of-smartphone-apps&quot;&gt;a dedicated bike computer is doing better under different weather conditions&lt;/a&gt;. But that are not the things I am concerned about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My smartphone is a Samsung Galaxy S Plus, so not a special &quot;outdoor&quot; smartphone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the vibrations during cycling damage my smartphone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2020-03-28T07:26:56.297" Title="Smartphone mounted on handlebar: Will vibrations during cycling damage it?" Tags="&lt;city&gt;&lt;smartphone-mount&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15209" CreationDate="2013-04-11T10:44:32.150" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vibrations will be hard on it.  The result will not be instantaneous failure,  but an increasing likelihood of failure after perhaps several hundred hours of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The likelihood of damage can be greatly reduced with a resilient, shock-absorbing mount of some sort (I assume most commercial mounts include some shock-absorbing function).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most important is to avoid mounting in a way that the device will bang against the handlebar, or rattle in its mount.  A mount that is too flexible can actually increase the G force the phone is subjected to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T10:44:32.150" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15182" CreationDate="2013-04-11T12:54:43.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have only surface rust. The frame would have to rust through to cause any integrity problems and that would take many years of damp conditions. The creaking you hear when shifting your weight to the bars may be the headset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be worth getting it serviced. As its likely the grease has escaped/become clogged with dirt causing the creaking. It would be wise to check all the joints and welds for signs of fatigue or cracks. Ensure they are all solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T12:54:43.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15182" CreationDate="2013-04-11T13:07:29.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it's only superficial damage if it's only happened since the frame's paint got damaged.  If you can get it all off with steel wool then you should be fine, though you may want to look into getting the frame repainted with a good waterproof/anti-rust paint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the creeking, verify that the bolts holding the front fork and handlebar assembly are nice and tight.  It's probably just something working loose with use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T13:07:29.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-11T15:37:49.623" Score="11" ViewCount="16956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded my cell phone and now have a Droid X2 without cell service that I'm not using for anything.  Can I utilize my old Droid X2 phone (or any android phone without a cell phone plan) as a basic cycle computer, GPS Router Tracker, or Navigation tool? How will the capabilities stack up against a dedicated cycling GPS such as a Garmin 800?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be using this on the road completely data free.  However, I think the GPS functionality should still be functional, even without data service.  I should be able to access an internet connection at home to upload or download data to the phone as well as install apps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T09:54:59.133" Title="Repurpose old android phone (without cell phone plan) as cycle computer with GPS tracking?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;smartphone-mount&gt;&lt;navigation&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15215" CreationDate="2013-04-11T16:22:19.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Garmin is waterproof, and has a resistive touchscreen that works with gloves. It has an ANT+ receiver for use with cadence sensors etc., and most phones don't. Battery life will be better than most phones. I suspect the Garmin will be easier to load maps onto than a phone with no plan, but many mapping apps do allow you to load data for later use without a connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need a SIM with some sort of basic pay-as-you-go plan just to get your phone to work at all, even if you don't have a data plan and use wi-fi to loads new maps and apps. Sometimes only 999/911/your local equivalent calls work with no SIM at all. That might be provider/network specific as well as phone specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5968/are-there-advantages-of-dedicated-bike-computer-instead-of-smartphone-apps?rq=1&quot;&gt;Are there advantages of dedicated bike computer instead of smartphone apps?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T16:22:19.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15215" CreationDate="2013-04-11T16:31:16.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've helped many people use an old iPhone to use the Strava app to record a ride. The key (with Strava app) is wifi connection at the beginning and end of the ride. The GPS does work without cellular data, but many apps require a connection either for maps or uploading to a website. Meaning, you won't get updated maps while riding, so you can use it for recording a ride, but not as a navigation tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One friend even got his iPod (without GPS) to work using wifi Location Services, which seemed to only work for him while in a city (more densely populated with many wifi's along his commute).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the Edge 500 and it records my rides, never used the map, but it is not really a map, but a line showing where you went, the next models up Edge 800 and 810 do have street maps that you can purchase from Garmin, but all cost more than your old cell phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T16:31:16.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15233" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-11T20:48:45.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multi-geared bicycles often use a 'cassette' of sprockets which slide onto a splined freehub body. This system has largely replaced the screw-on cogset used on older models. There are usually between 5 and 11 sprockets in a cassette, and ratios vary widely based on intended application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cassettes are referred to as a Block by the English, more so amongst the older generations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-11-12T08:01:00.753" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T08:01:00.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15234" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-11T20:48:45.617" Score="0" Body="A cluster of sprockets, commonly 5 to 11 of them, attached to a freehub on the rear wheel." OwnerUserId="3338" LastEditorUserId="3338" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T22:29:03.227" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T22:29:03.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15235" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-11T20:57:24.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rubber torus shaped balloon which is inflated via a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/tags/valves/info&quot;&gt;valve&lt;/a&gt; inside a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/tags/tire/info&quot;&gt;tyre&lt;/a&gt; to keep it rigid. Innertubes are available in a wide variety of sizes and thicknesses. They are being replaced in some cycling circles with &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/tags/tubeless/info&quot;&gt;Tubeless&lt;/a&gt; tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastEditorUserId="3338" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T23:33:24.380" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T23:33:24.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15236" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-11T20:57:24.473" Score="0" Body="A rubber torus shaped balloon which is inflated via a valve inside a tyre to keep it rigid." OwnerUserId="3338" LastEditorUserId="3338" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T23:33:28.787" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T23:33:28.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15237" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-11T21:02:41.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tubeless tyres do not require an &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/tags/innertube/info&quot;&gt;innertube&lt;/a&gt; because they seal against the wheel &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/tags/rims/info&quot;&gt;rim&lt;/a&gt; using a sealant, often latex-based. The rim has a valve fitted directly to it, or into it with a special type of integrated &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/tags/rim-tape/info&quot;&gt;rim-tape&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastEditorUserId="3338" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T23:33:16.490" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T23:33:16.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15238" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-11T21:02:41.213" Score="0" Body="Tubeless tyres do not require an innertube." OwnerUserId="3338" LastEditorUserId="3338" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T23:33:04.467" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T23:33:04.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15215" CreationDate="2013-04-11T21:31:51.690" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a background in developing consumer GPS systems...... There is no doubt that a Garmin is a much better device for the job. On cell phones, GPS and associated functionality is the side dish - as in &quot;would you like fries with your burger&quot;, on a Garmin, is the Raison d'être.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardware wise, its a no brainier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, as already mentioned in @armb answer, is battery life - Cell phones start small with the smallest battery they can get away with, ever seen a Cellphone with battery life specified - with GPS turned on - there is a reason for that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Robustness - cell phone - robust not... There are few slightly rugged ones (I have a Motorola Defy) - but they don't match a Garmin. My defy is supposed to be water proof (IP66, 1/2 hour 1 meter under water). I don't worry about rain, but sure as anything ain't going to put it under water - it has one tiny O ring to seal it, I bet an IP66 Garmin has 2 decent sized ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue to think about is that phones have tiny GPS antennas (Remember the fries). Cell phones use assisted start - where the cell network provide key information on start up, allowing them to find the satellites easier. Its easy for a GPS to track where you are once it knows where (and when) you are. If it doesn't know where you are, it doesn't know where to &quot;look&quot; for the satellites, and needs to search for them. Think of looking for a buoy on the water. If you get told, &quot;Find the buoy&quot; it can take forever to find it. With training and binoculars, it's easier, but if I say &quot;The buoy is over there, keep watching it&quot; - anyone can see it (that assisted start). &#xA;With no data connection, no assisted start - think minutes to get a fix every time you turn it on, even in perfect conditions, and never in marginal conditions vs Garmin taking a few seconds and nearly always. Research &quot;GPS TTFF&quot; (Time to First Fix). A Garmin with its better GPS front end, will hold the fix much more reliably, if you ride &quot;urban canyons&quot;, forests and such like its important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Software -&#xA;I mostly use my Defy when on the bike these days - there is a range of Android software probably as good as Garmin has, but you need to find the right one from the hundreds of most rubbish available, install it, jump though hoops with your right pinky finger in you left ear...... Garmin will work out the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sim Card - most cells need a sim card to get past the startup screen.......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary - a Cell phone will probably work - with a bit of shagging around, you might even find it acceptable. Garmin will work out the box.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T21:31:51.690" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15215" CreationDate="2013-04-11T22:26:48.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one use case I think will suit you greatly if you get your phone to work AND get some app that saves GPX files (I think most GPS-oriented apps do that):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you go out for a ride, you turn the phone on, get a GPS position, throw it in your back pocket and forget it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you get back home, you transfer the GPX file to some service (Strava and RideWithGps are my favorite sites) or application, and analyze it (I find it very very entertaining).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you want on-the-fly use of orientation, routing, navigation, I think it would only be possible if your App has map caching (from openstreetmaps, for example), since the app should just display the cached image centered on your current position. I believe some nerdy fellow riders around must have done something like this, but it's just a hypothesis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eric's additional though on this post: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or turn this around another way: go without the GPS just have a map in the phone. That's enough for me to find my way. Surly you can find a map app that can cache today's route? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at putting maps into my Kobo E-reader. The advantage of that is that it's battery life is measured in weeks instead of hours. So far, I have to convert each map to PDF format. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T13:28:41.947" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T13:28:41.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15215" CreationDate="2013-04-11T23:33:30.553" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mobile is the way to go. Forget cycling computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling computer can't connect to computer wirelessly, your mobile can. I've stopped logging my rides on my mac, my mobile do this for me automatically and I can access the logs from anywhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get maps for free on your mobile from the internet and you don't have to update your map.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't need cellular connection if you have wifi at home to upload ride log.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mobiles use wifi to for positioning. When starting a ride, my mobile can lock its position faster because it listens to wifi stations in the neighborhood. My gps can't do that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main issue with mobile is mounting. I find them expensive, although in reality i still save money compared to upgrading my gps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get ANT attachment for some mobiles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If weather is an issue, just cling wrap your mobile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are many apps on mobile, they only get better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery life could be an issue because you get bigger display. I think it's easier to just plug a mobile to charge than connecting gps to computer to download data.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will be more social with mobile, easier to share ride with friends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The only thing a cycling computer really wins is when it has barometric altimeter, nice if you like climbing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally, cycling computer is easier to read under sunlight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastEditorUserId="3042" LastEditDate="2013-04-18T03:04:10.273" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T03:04:10.273" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15249" CreationDate="2013-04-11T23:57:21.150" Score="3" ViewCount="1265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get most of my exercise through cycling. Does cycling without cross-training cause injuries? If so, are there specific injuries to which cyclists are susceptible (knee, hip, etc.), and is it possible to prevent them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume that the bike is well fitted, since bike fit and knee pain is discussed in the question:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5739/how-to-adjust-seat-saddle-and-saddle-position-for-knee-pain&quot;&gt;How to adjust seat saddle and saddle position for knee pain?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Other related questions include: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7669/how-to-avoid-knee-pain-when-cycling&quot;&gt;How to avoid knee pain when cycling&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14971/should-cyclists-use-weight-training-to-strengthen-underutilized-muscles&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14971/should-cyclists-use-weight-training-to-strengthen-underutilized-muscles&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/222/how-can-i-get-rid-of-i-t-band-pain-caused-by-cycling&quot;&gt;How can I get rid of I.T. Band pain caused by cycling?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T12:55:06.030" Title="Does exercising solely through cycling cause injuries?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;cross-training&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15195" CreationDate="2013-04-11T23:57:53.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent many years skateboarding before jumping on a bike and bearing maintenance (for identical bearings) was pretty key to making expensive bearings last much longer. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I never used anything to waterproof the bearings from the outside&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (or heard of anyone who did) but took time to do regular maintenance. Guys with far lower mechanical skills than those who wrench bikes could do this stuff easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can remove the dust shield quite easily (some are held in by a split ring others just prise out) but you need to be careful. Once open remove the balls and retainer and clean them with a solvent based cleaner that doesn't leave a residue (so not WD40). Clean up the races and put all back together. Re-lube with a decent non dust attracting oil, I used to use sewing machine oil but now would just use a decent chain lube. Wipe down the shield replace it carefully and clean the outside of the bearing up to remove any lube  residue. Place back on the axle dry and let the balls do their work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem with buying generic bearings to replace OEM ones is ensuring that they have similar properties to withstand impact and side loading forces. Most industrial bearings are designed and manufactured to spin in place at very high speeds with consistent external forces. You may get a good deal on the bearing but you'll likely have to replace them more often as they could fail significantly faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T23:57:53.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15242" CreationDate="2013-04-12T04:36:35.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get overuse injuries, but if you are careful and the bike fits well, they aren't that common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only ride, however, there are a lot of muscles that don't get much of a workout, so you can get some imbalances. I cycle seriously but I also lift weights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T04:36:35.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15246" CreationDate="2013-04-12T06:03:14.490" Score="0" ViewCount="1881" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the rear derailleur families, offered by Shimano? I need to replace a Shimano Acera derailleur and am trying to decide on a replacement part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T14:17:46.263" Title="What are the shimano rear derailleur families?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15245" CreationDate="2013-04-12T07:55:24.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cross country component&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;XTR [M980] (10 speed) – Top of the range for cross-country mountain&#xA;bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deore XT [M780] (10 speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SLX [M660] (9 and 10 speed), replaced Deore LX&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deore [M590] (9 speed) Entry level cross-country mountain bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-series (brakeparts, cranks and pedals)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trekking component&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deore XT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deore LX&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deore&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Downhill/Freeride component&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saint [M820] (10 speed) – Top of the range for downhill and freeride&#xA;bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zee [M640] (10 speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hone [M600] (9 speed) – discontinued in 2008&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recreational mountain bikes component&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alivio [M410 and M430] (8 and 9 speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acera [M360] (8 and 9 speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Altus [M310] (8 speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tourney (6, 7, 8 speed) – Includes several different levels of&#xA;quality, and can be found on department-store bicycles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above list was pilfered from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano#Mountain_bike_groupsets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably best to go with Acera again, to ensure it's compatible. I've had one fitted to my hybrid in the last year, so they're still available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T14:17:46.263" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T14:17:46.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14821" CreationDate="2013-04-12T08:20:47.150" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found something on the homepage of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute&lt;/a&gt;. They have an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/helmetlights.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article about bicycle helmet lights&lt;/a&gt;, listing the pros and cons of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: Lights on bicycle helmets can be useful, but must have a breakaway mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially about the breakaway mount:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The importance of breakaway mounts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first and most important rule for mounting a light on your helmet is that it must break away readily when you crash or catch an overhanging obstacle. If it does not, you risk having your neck jerked when it snags on the pavement or tree. Besides jerking your neck, that can add to the g's of the shock to your brain when you hit pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there are no studies mentioned how dangerous it is when the light does not fall off during a crash, some manufacturers test their lights to break away during a crash:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only one helmet manufacturer we have spoken to provided their lab test levels, Uvex, proving that they actually have an internal standard. And the light manufacturer Jet Lites has a standard requiring their mount to break away when loaded with a 5 pound weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows that it is important that the light falls off during a crash, but unfortunately most manufacturers do not care. Which seems to be a problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers use hook-and-loop straps to hold their lights on. We have seen some that wrap through the vents and under that seemed unlikely to detach when they should have. But again, there is no standard for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/helmetlights.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bhsi.org/helmetlights.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T08:20:47.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15242" CreationDate="2013-04-12T09:06:25.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get injuries from all kind of exercices if not done correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot get injuries by cycling (unless you crash or overdo it or have bad posture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can end up with though with cycling only is a weak upper body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T09:06:25.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15242" CreationDate="2013-04-12T11:42:11.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, of course, we must exclude accidents, collisions, and component failures -- these obviously can result in injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, in almost any physical activity it's possible to apply so much force to a muscle that you produce a muscle or tendon pull.  In cycling this would be, eg, when you're climbing in too high a gear and exert enormous force on the pedals, sufficient to cause an injury to your leg, arm, or back.  This would be more likely in a person who has gained strength in some other activity and only recently begun cycling intensely, however, such that their muscle and tendon strength was imbalanced for cycling -- unlikely to occur in a regular cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves the knees.  While most cyclists never have serious knee problems, a substantial fraction do.  This would be due to any or all of three problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor knee &quot;geometry&quot;, either as an inborn trait or due to some prior injury.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling with the seat too low and/or in too high of a gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Imbalance&quot; in the muscles supporting the knee, due to lack of &quot;training&quot; of some of those muscles, while others are being strengthened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knee problems can be avoided/controlled by assuring that the seat is at proper height (and that the bike is otherwise properly fit), using a gear appropriate to the conditions and your degree of training/tolerance, and doing knee-strengthening exercises.  It is imperative that one not try to &quot;work through&quot; significant knee pain, but instead address it, correcting the problems leading to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common form of knee pain is &quot;patellofemeral pain syndrome&quot;, a condition where the kneecap gets &quot;off-center&quot; relative to the thigh bone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, it should also be mentioned that there are about a dozen inherited &quot;minor metabolic disorders&quot; -- myoadenylate deaminase deficiency, McArdle's disease, CPTII, and others -- that maybe 3% of the population carries.  If a person has been exercising regularly for some time they would already have become aware of these, but if someone begins a program of fairly vigorous exercise for the first time in their life (cycling or othewise) they may encounter muscle pain/soreness that lasts beyond a few days, severe muscle cramps, or other such conditions.  If these symptoms continue for more than a week or two they should consult a physician (oddly, the doc to see is a neurologist).  In many cases it will be possible to continue reasonably vigorous exercise, if the condition is properly treated and accommodated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-05-10T12:55:06.030" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T12:55:06.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15256" CreationDate="2013-04-12T13:13:28.057" Score="3" ViewCount="1807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of Shimano CX70 canti brakes the pads of which are replacable by changing the pad only (cartridges).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see in no document for any specification of a cartridge that fits. Are brake cartridges universal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-04-13T21:19:28.373" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T21:19:28.373" Title="Replaceable cartridges for rim brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15182" CreationDate="2013-04-12T14:21:44.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rust on the frame is the least of your worries. It's the moving parts you should be looking at: derailleurs, chain, bearings, brakes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's an old bike, it probably has non-sealed bearings, so you should clean and repack them (if you ride regularly, you should do this once a year). Replace the chain if it looks rusty or if it's stiff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the creaking: who the hell knows? It could be coming from a hundred different places, and it's usually the last place you look. The best you can do is keep everything maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T14:21:44.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15253" CreationDate="2013-04-12T18:46:06.127" Score="3" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may seem like an odd question, but I was wondering if it's safe or a good idea to rinse road rash with iced coffee or other drinks? My usual strategy for road rash is to clean the fresh wound as soon as possible as thoroughly as possible, but normally I'd use water (and soap if available).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on my commute to work today I came across a fellow cyclist who'd just wiped out (biking fast around a wet corner, wheels slipped out from under him when he hit a slippery patch). He had some nasty road rash on his leg and elbow. He slid half on pavement, half on wet dirt, so the wound was pretty dirty. The only liquid I had with me on my commute is iced coffee (with milk and sugar). I offered him the  coffee to rinse his leg and he declined,  but he did use the packet of neosporin I gave him (which seemed of limited usefulness given how dirty the wound was). His bike was ok and he was able to ride on to work and said he'd have someone look at his leg later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyway, I was wondering if cleaning a wound  immediately with coffee (or other drinks, like tea, Gatorade, Coke, etc) is a good idea or if it would be better to just wait until I get to home/work to clean it with soap and water? I'd do a thorough cleaning at home regardless, but is there any benefit to cleaning immediately after the crash even if I don't have any water available? Also, is the answer different if I'm facing a 2 or 3 hour walk to better facilities rather than a 20 - 30 minute ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a related question, what else could I carry in my commute bag that would be useful for situations like this -- wet wipes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did come across this related post on treating road rash, but it doesn't address what to do at the time of the accident: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/967/what-do-you-do-to-cure-road-rash-more-quickly-after-a-crash&quot;&gt;What do you do to cure road rash more quickly after a crash?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T19:01:15.980" Title="Is it OK to use coffee or other drinks to clean road rash?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15252" CreationDate="2013-04-12T20:10:24.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plain black coffee would be okay; it's just water and it should be nearly sterile.  However, I would definitely avoid coffee that contains milk, sugar or other additives that can support bacteria growth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, this is going to come as a bit of a surprise, but what is an excellent wound cleanser is urine.  Yeah, yeah, I know.  But other than the ewwww factor, it's nearly perfect.  It's warm, sterile*, and near isotonic.  Naturally, the guy's not likely to agree to let you urinate on him, but he can do it himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Assuming the person is healthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T20:10:24.097" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15252" CreationDate="2013-04-12T21:45:36.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that any drinkable liquid is better than nothing at all.  Given a choice, one would pick a beverage without sugar or dairy in it, and acidic drinks (especially carbonated) are apt to sting quite a bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But cleaning the wound reasonably quickly is fairly important for promoting healing, and there's nothing inherently harmful in any standard beverage -- if you can drink it, it should be good for wound cleaning.  (Though with sugar/dairy beverages one should probably wash with pure water ASAP.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I try to make sure I always have some pure water, for first aid use.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T21:45:36.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15250" CreationDate="2013-04-12T21:52:51.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/BR/EV-BR-CX70-3223_v1_m56577569830767905.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano&lt;/a&gt; the model number for a pair of pads is R55C+1, but I think these are just standard road cartridge pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6598" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T21:52:51.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15250" CreationDate="2013-04-12T22:17:45.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The world of brake pad inserts is sort of a crazy world. Since there is lots of info, I'll be broader than what is required for the Shimano CX70s you have... Generally, the Shimano-style system (side grooves and one set screw dimple) is the most popular. Avid also has its own system for cantilever and linear pull brakes (a ridge with two clips). Campy has their own design as do a few other manufacturers, but this will be the starting point in your journey towards madness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To complicate matters, there are hundreds of colored compounds specific to alloy rims and to carbon rims. There are grooves, channels, wedges, and fins. There are paired rims and pads that will stop your heart if you're not careful. Lots of marketing shtick that will get you nowhere for some extra cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cartridge pads for linear pull brakes vary in length from 73 mm to 70 mm, and so on. Shimano is super common and it is easy enough to compare images of the pad to determine what will be compatible. Below are some Avid-type pads. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fbof.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Avid Brake Pads&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Caliper-style pads are generally ~55 mm long. There are lots of different designs and materials which can make it difficult to find the right ones.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/paZMi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Many different kids of pads&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cantilever brakes are a toss up. Some manufacturers use longer pads and holders, others use shorter ones. &lt;strong&gt;Your Shimano CX70 brakes take pads that are 55mm long - standard road-Shimano-type pads.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule you should measure your old pads and measure the new pads and write that info down so you don't have to go searching again in the future. Compare the actual pads (or pictures) to be sure of the mounting system. When you do buy pads, buy two sets so that you aren't stuck on unsafe pads when your current set wears out. You can always upgrade the pad holders as well, but if you're unsure about replacing those holders head to a qualified mechanic. Brakes are one component you need to be totally sure about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding a vintage bike, take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolstop.com/english/rim_pads.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kool Stop's website&lt;/a&gt;, they manufacture a lot of hard-to-find replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T23:59:01.190" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T23:59:01.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15242" CreationDate="2013-04-13T06:52:04.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't heard of any people getting knee injuries from riding unless they were using a bike not fitted for their size or doing something else strange. In fact, my mother was &quot;prescribed&quot; bike riding after her knee replacement surgery to rebuild strength. However, I know of a few people with back problems from improper posture while riding, particularly those who are always hunched over road bikes, or are constantly being jarred on trails while mountain biking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife has an issue in her hip known as piriformis syndrome from an accident a few years ago. We commonly ride 20 - 30 miles at a time on 7 speed beach cruisers, but if it has been a while since our last ride, biking too long or hard does bother her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it is really common for men using narrow saddles to have testicular issues. Similarly, women can have pelvic floor dysfunction. These issues result from leaning forward on a thin seat, placing too much weight on this sensitive area of the body. My wife is a nurse working in labor and deliver and is no stranger to &quot;private&quot; issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is never a good idea to only do one specific exercise or focus on one aspect of the body if you are striving overall health and wellness. Biking is great, but should be combined with other types of exercise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6557" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T06:52:04.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-13T13:42:23.470" Score="-5" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;My old (But freakin' awesome) french road bike goes fast, considering that the only times im racing is pretty much against my friends who all have mountain bikes. Needless to say I always win. But I would like even faster speed. I understand that IM the engine, and I need to be fit, but would upgrading to a newer and lighter road bike gain me any noticeable improvements in speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6618" LastEditorUserId="4644" LastEditDate="2013-04-13T18:56:05.750" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T23:55:49.733" Title="Speed On a Road Bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-04-18T20:34:55.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15215" CreationDate="2013-04-13T16:25:15.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have nothing to loose by trying out your old redundent phone as a bike computer. The only slightly tricky bit is sorting out a mounting solution.  You may find it acceptable for your needs you may not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the right phone and the right app I belive you can have a cyceling computer solution equiverlent to the top of the line bike computers at a significant discount in terms of cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phone wise an Xperia Active is still the best bet with built in ANT support plus  pressure sensor all in a rugged waterproof case.  Alternatives also with pressure sensor include the popular S3.  The new Sony Z looks interesting as well also having the pressure sensor and being waterproof but you loose the built in ANT.  You can get ANT support using a USB dongle on a modern phone and Google may eventulay sort out BTLE support opening up another option for sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;App wise for Android there are two styles of apps.  Those from the big website players e.g. Strava, MapMyFittness, Endomondo, etc.  These in my opinion have being a cyceling app as a second priority although they are getting better.  There are then more dedicated cyceling apps lots of simple gps only apps with just simple online only map support which want be any use with no sim.  There are a number of apps with off-line mapping support though which is what you want to look at with no sim.  If you want pressure sensor support or full ANT sensor support then the picking are getting thin but there are a number of more sophisticated apps with these features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an area where things are changing quickly app and phone capability wise.  Modern phone gps solutions are a lot better than they used to be. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GLONASS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GOLLANSS&lt;/a&gt; support improving bad reception sensrio accuracy on modern phones.  The battery consumption compared with 2 or 3 years ago has also come on leaps and bounds. The apps are constantly evolving feature wise with far easier update capabilities than a standard bike computer and the possibility of features that just are not possible with a stand alone computer like direct upload to your favorite website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3723" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T16:25:15.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13931" CreationDate="2013-04-13T16:36:24.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same conundrum when replacing a light a while ago. My solution was to buy a flashlight, rather than a dedicated bicycle light; it's about the same size and specification, but you get a lot more bang per buck. Bicycle lights seem to be rather overpriced compared to flashlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flashlight is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fenixtorch.co.uk/led_torches/fenix-pd30-r4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fenix PD30&lt;/a&gt;, which costs £53.95. It can produce 257 lumens of light at its highest setting, which is masses - plenty for riding down an unlit country lane, in my experience - but will allegedly exhaust the battery in two and a half hours. I have never used it at that level for long enough to find out; i mostly use it for city riding, so i use the 10 lumen setting, where i go for months between battery changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy lights based around similar Cree LEDs made by no-name brands in China for very little - my backup light is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://dx.com/p/ultrafire-wf-501b-cree-r2-wc-5-mode-memory-250-lumen-led-flashlight-black-1-18650-2-cr123a-16241&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UltraFire WF-501B body with an XR-E R2 LED&lt;/a&gt;, which allegedly produces 250 lumens and costs a hillarious $16.15. The housing seems perfectly good quality, it produces more light than the Fenix, but it does get quite hot when in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mount the light using a simple but very effective &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fenixtorch.co.uk/led_torches/lockblock.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rubber and velcro Lockblock&lt;/a&gt;. It seems a bit dubious, but it actually holds the light far better than clippy things i've had on bike lights in the past. You can get cheap clones of this from China too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This light, like most current high-performance flashlights, takes CR123A rechargeable batteries, which are shorter and a bit fatter than AAs, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flashlight-blog.com/2010/11/cr123a-or-aa.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;store more power&lt;/a&gt;. They are available in various chemistries; i use LiFePO4 ones, because although they don't store as much power as some other chemistries, they last longer, and don't explode when over-discharged. To be honest, it was the not exploding that really sold me on them. They are reasonably cheap - i use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cloud9vaping.co.uk/B62-02&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tenergy&lt;/a&gt; ones, which are six quid for a pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the light you eventually bought, it seems you wanted more light than me, and were prepared to spend more. There are bigger, more powerful, and more expensive flashlights, made by Fenix and other brands, and by the fabulous workshops of the Orient. There is also the option of simply fitting multiple lights - i can carry two on my bars without difficulty. I think you'd be able to buy yourself as much light as you did for considerably less money this way. Plus, if you fit two lights, you can make your bike look like it's in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/thoughtcrimes/4544610001/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Orbital&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T16:36:24.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14353" CreationDate="2013-04-13T17:08:58.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your chain line is very important in a situation like this. Also if you use a flip flop rear hub your wheel has to be symmetrical.... So when you flip it around it does not affect the chain line. &#xA;For my chain line I use a Phil Wood BB which gives the most adjustment. I run a 1/8 crank (Paul Royal Flush). 1/8 chain. 1/8 Phil Wood track cog but I use a WI free wheel cog which is 3/32. They are both 18 teeth so when I flip the hub the tension is pretty close&#xA;Hope this helps&#xA;Chuckmeister&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6620" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T17:08:58.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2013-04-13T18:32:47.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gorilla tape, cutting one half inch strip patch for each spoke?  And then a rim strip or old inner tube made into a rim strip over that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6621" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T18:32:47.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15258" CreationDate="2013-04-13T23:55:49.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is &quot;would upgrading to a newer and lighter road bike gain me any noticeable improvements in speed?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is a loud YES!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The doubt remains regarding &quot;is it worth the extra money?&quot; and that's difficult to answer. If you have a lot of money, or really want extra performance (for a given fitness level) and don't mind throwing the money, you'll most probably get back this money in the form of a lighter, faster bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have to say: sometimes one spends a lot more money and get back not so much extra speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(of course I'm talking of AVERAGE speed during dozens of miles, not isolated bursts of maximum speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think you should do, before anything else, is to FIND OUT A GROUP OF ROAD RIDERS to go along. I understand you want more speed, and you won't get the challenge from a MTB group, if you ride a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a group of roadies, you'll not only find out how it is to ride along a faster pack, but also will see a lot of different road bikes. Most probably you'll notice that not always the faster rides have the lighter or more expensive bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T23:55:49.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-14T02:40:35.243" Score="2" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to find out how many of a particular bike model were produced and/or sold?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;br&gt;&#xA;For example, &quot;how many Schwinn LeTour bikes were produced in 1979?&quot; The Schwinn LeTour question is just an example--I'm hoping to find a website or search strategy for finding this data for any arbitrary bike model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often enjoy looking at used bikes (and sometimes buying them), and I speculate that knowing production numbers would a few advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High-production bike models might be more likely to have OEM parts available for a long time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High-production models may have more rants/raves/discussions on web forums, which can give indications of reliability and build quality. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If enough data is available, it'd be cool to sort a big database of bike models by &quot;highest to lowest production.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: by &quot;high production model,&quot; I just mean &quot;many examples (tens of thousands?) of this bike model were manufactured.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Production numbers for &lt;em&gt;cars&lt;/em&gt; are generally easy to find (Wikipedia has a lot of them), but this question has been much harder to answer for &lt;em&gt;bicycles&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6622" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T10:16:16.097" Title="Bicycle production/sales figures?" Tags="&lt;us&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15264" CreationDate="2013-04-14T08:28:45.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only answer on the second bullet point of your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;...may have more rants/raves/discussions on web forums...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of infering this by the production count, you can directly find out how much discussion is happening for each particular bike model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple way is to use Google. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=schwinn+letour&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=schwinn+letour&lt;/a&gt; gives &quot;About 43,800 results&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=schwinn+voyageur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=schwinn+voyageur&lt;/a&gt; gives &quot;About 705,000 results&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That definitely means that you'll find more written material on the internet about &lt;code&gt;voyageur&lt;/code&gt; than &lt;code&gt;letour&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T08:28:45.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15264" CreationDate="2013-04-14T10:16:16.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is know as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_tank_problem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;German Tank Problem&lt;/a&gt;: In World War II, the Western Allies wanted to estimate the number of tanks the Germans had, and approached this in two major ways: conventional intelligence gathering, and statistical estimation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To estimate the number of tanks produced up to a certain point, the Allies used the &lt;strong&gt;serial numbers on tanks&lt;/strong&gt;. The principal numbers used were gearbox numbers, as these fell in two unbroken sequences. Chassis and engine numbers were also used, though their use were more complicated – various other components were used in the cross-checking of the analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to conventional Allied intelligence estimates the Germans were producing around 1,400 tanks a month between June 1940 and September 1942. Applying the formula below to the serial numbers of captured German tanks, (both serviceable and destroyed) the number was calculated to be 246 a month. After the war, captured German production figures from the ministry of Albert Speer showed the actual number to be 245.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T10:16:16.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15276" CreationDate="2013-04-14T14:54:29.950" Score="1" ViewCount="3410" Body="&lt;p&gt;since my tyres are a little old and won't make it much longer, I will buy new ones. At the moment I have Schwalbe Marathon 700-35C  and I was thinking to replace them with a Continental Contact II 700 x 32C. Since there are no Contact II 700 x 35 C I thought about going slightly thinner instead of 700 x 37. Any Ideas on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having less friction on the tyres could be great since my commute grew considerably longer this year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6623" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T22:09:41.363" Title="tyre size for a 28&quot; bike, at the moment: 35C, is 32C too narrow?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-14T14:57:50.267" Score="2" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my bike for a month or so and just gave it a clean. There is now a little bit of water trapped under the shimano shifters clear plastic covers. Is this a problem? Will it disperse eventually? Was going to ping off the covers but was not sure if they would go back on easily or the correct way to get them off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help appreciated, know very little about bike maintenance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6624" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T13:57:17.763" Title="Little bit of water under plastic cover on my shimano shifters" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15268" CreationDate="2013-04-14T16:14:21.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to worry about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are nearly no components on your bike -- except for the hub and bottom bracket bearings -- that are sealed to be more or less waterproof. Most of the components are totally fine with water on or in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially for your shifters: their internals are mostly made out of plastic so no need to worry. As they are built in some half-closed way, there may be some water condensation in some corners, which is no real problem. The water may disappear as soon as the weather is warm enough and the bike stands in the sun for some time. It also may reappear, but as said, it's not a real problem, just some matter of optics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T13:57:17.763" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T13:57:17.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24725" CreationDate="2013-04-14T16:30:55.713" Score="8" ViewCount="12287" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of suspension fork manufacturers that have adopted a fork design where the lowers have a reversed arch.  I can't see that they claim any particular performance advantages for it, although there are some people on mountain biking forums saying they have improved torsional stiffness. Why would that be the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how do they compare in muddy conditions, more/less resistance to clogging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m1vpY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reverse arch forks&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T03:00:45.547" Title="What is the advantage of a reverse arch suspension fork?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15267" CreationDate="2013-04-14T16:40:28.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt the rolling resistance or air resistance will be much changed by using a 3 mm narrower tyre.  In terms of compatibility there's a chart &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; where you can check your rim size against safe tyre combinations.  Although as it says below, many people go outside this range without problems and I have done so myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T16:40:28.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10140" CreationDate="2013-04-14T16:59:30.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Marin Four Corners for the exact same purpose as described and have been happy with the results. The bar end shifters on touring bikes are meant for durability on long hauls and can be a hassle, at first, to deal within a city commute, but easily conquered at 20 miles a day. It too is 29lbs of double butted steel, but considering the weight you shed riding on a daily commute, its not big deal. To the 'Four Corners;, and beyond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6625" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T16:59:30.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15277" CreationDate="2013-04-14T18:59:28.777" Score="2" ViewCount="1498" Body="&lt;p&gt;My front wheel is secured with 14mm bolts, while my rear wheel uses 1/2 inch bolts. Turns out my multitool has only a 14mm wrench, so I can't change the rear tire with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than carrying around a whole other wrench, or buying a different multitool, my first thought is to swap the 1/2&quot; bolts for 14mm ones. Assuming I can find a set with the appropriate inner diameter, is there any reason this would be a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-04-14T19:13:56.767" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T00:09:55.870" Title="Can I replace a 1/2 inch bolt with a 14mm one to secure my axle?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15270" CreationDate="2013-04-14T21:52:47.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can find references to anything, however I recall reading its pretty much a marketing gimmick. The engineer in me thinks I am sure you could probably do a middle or 2 arches shock if you wanted... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as resistance to clogging in mud, I expect the only dimension that counts is the tire to arch and tire to post distances. Bigger is better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T21:52:47.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-14T22:00:36.990" Score="5" ViewCount="2879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FROO26SCVD/on_one_scandal_26er_vertical_dropout_frame&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;On-One Scandal&lt;/a&gt; aluminium frame, into which i have put a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelies.co.uk/p45708/One23-Carbon-Fibre-Zero-Offset-Seatpost-.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;carbon seatpost&lt;/a&gt;. I have been adjusting it to find the right height, and i have noticed that it is getting seriously scratched - see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/twic/8649158789&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a terrible photo&lt;/a&gt;. The scratching isn't deep enough to weaken the seatpost, but it looks ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tracked some of the scratching down to the sharp edge around the top of the seat tube, and around the clamp notch (or whatever you call that). I have filed those so that they are smoothly chamfered, and now they don't scratch the seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, further down the seat tube, the top tube and seatstay trunk (or whatever you call that - on this frame, the seatstays don't join the seat tube directly, they join on to a short piece of fat tube which then joins the seat tube) join on. Where each joins, there is a small hole in the wall of the seat tube (i suppose these are to ventilate the insides of their respective tubes). These holes have sharp edges, and i believe it is these which are scratching the seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else come across this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The holes are too far down to be able to get a file at them. I've applied some carbon assembly paste around them, and that helps a little (it seems to act as a lubricant when not clamped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can i stop my seatpost getting scratched?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:31:57.327" Title="Can i stop my frame scratching my seatpost?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15267" CreationDate="2013-04-14T22:09:41.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Daniel R Hicks's comment is correct: You should be able to go 3mm smaller with no problems. It's likely that you could go significantly smaller than that. Eventually, you hit the possibility that the rims are too narrow for the tire but unless you're running rims that were designed for a 29er, you're not likely to have that problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also not likely that you'll notice much of a difference in ride quality based solely on the size change. Dropping from 35 to 32mm is really such a small difference that any change that you notice will more likely be attributable to changing the brand, model, and tread pattern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T22:09:41.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15273" CreationDate="2013-04-14T23:56:49.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can find nuts with the correct thread (both diameter and thread pitch) but a smaller wrench size, you can replace the ones that are there.  But note that the existing nuts probably have a built-in washer, and any replacement should have the built-in washer not too much smaller than what you have.  In a pinch you can use regular washerless nuts and a separate loose washer, but that's not as reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be easier to find a new wrench.  Almost certainly the rear is not an inch sized nut but a larger metric size, and a combo wrench can be found to fit both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(At least in the US, &quot;bolt&quot; refers to a threaded rod with a head on one end.  &quot;Nut&quot; is the small piece with a threaded hole in it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T00:09:55.870" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T00:09:55.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-15T01:43:10.307" Score="-2" ViewCount="905" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time posting here. I'm 15 years old, I want to buy a fixed gear bike to get to school, job and metro. I live in Montreal,Canada if you wonder... A fixie would be perfect since Montreal doesn't really have hills and my way to school and job is just flat ground. So I asked my friend who works at a bike shop if he had something to recommend and he actually told me he was selling two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one is a Giant Bowery 2012, State Bicycle Co wheels, Thickslick tires, BREV handlebars and the pedals are just standard.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://postimg.org/image/8tsa3icbh/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://postimg.org/image/8tsa3icbh/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second one is a Miyata 618GT, State Bicycle Co wheels, Thickslick tires, GIX (not sure what this means) drop bars and Ruben Tec pedals.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://postimg.org/image/skbez2sx5/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://postimg.org/image/skbez2sx5/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now my question is : which one should I choose and what price should I pay for it!&#xA;Thanks alot !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6628" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T18:09:29.167" Title="I want to buy a fixed gear bike. Which one should I buy?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-04-18T20:35:14.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2013-04-15T02:58:02.697" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best idea is to not see any doggie a long time.  Do not look in to its eyes it might think you are gonna attack it. When it is coming closer to you just do the confident stare at it and get as high as you can. If it comes too close to you get of the bike use it as your weapon. If you are attacked by two or more dogs just don't let them to corner you from four sides. When it jumps on to you get ready. To Kick some A**S. then just go off its territory. But the nest thing is to not look at dogs. Singing might hep you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6629" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T02:58:02.697" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15278" CreationDate="2013-04-15T06:01:10.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which bike someone should buy always depends on personal preferences, so it is quite difficult to take the decision for you and tell you which one you should buy. Different people have different priorities when buying a bike, someone maybe prefers a certain size of tires, for others the price is an important factor, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could ask in the bike shop if you can try them both out for a short ride, and you will see which one you like more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T06:01:10.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15283" CreationDate="2013-04-15T08:23:01.173" Score="7" ViewCount="891" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the tires of a bike, there is a label which shows the maximum allowed pressure for it. However, I am wondering if there are any other factors that affect the maximum allowed pressure in a tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the innertube also has a &quot;maximum allowed pressure&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need a rim tape to cover the spoke holes in my rim. Does this lower the allowed pressure?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other factors?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Background: In the last week, two innertubes on two different bikes exploded. They were both under the maximum allowed pressure. I suppose one was old and the other had a manufacturing error. One was exploding during cycling, the other one during inflating the tire. I am now quite afraid of inflating tires, so I want to make sure that this will not happen again.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T17:45:14.697" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T17:45:14.697" Title="What factors influence the maximum tire pressure other than the tire itself?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15314" CreationDate="2013-04-15T08:33:19.263" Score="0" ViewCount="1002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 9 speed crankset (44-32-22 FC M542), and matching RapidFire 9x3 speed shifters (FL M590).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use 7 speed front derailleur FD M550 in that combination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T15:19:36.423" Title="7 speed front Derailleur on 9 speed crankset" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15281" CreationDate="2013-04-15T08:49:40.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual cause of inner tubes exploding while being inflated is that part of the tube is pinched under the rim, or was damaged by a tyre lever while you were fitting the tyre (but manufacturing flaws can happen - I once had a puncture in a tube next the stem where it was difficult to patch, and my spare tube failed at the same place as soon as I inflated it (and there wasn't a sharp edge on the hole in the rim)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But apart from that, if the tube and tyre are properly seated, and the tube is the right size, the tube shouldn't limit the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rim tape can make a difference if the wrong sort is used, but shouldn't otherwise, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/_webedit/uploaded-files/All%20Files/Technical%20Info.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/_webedit/uploaded-files/All%20Files/Technical%20Info.pdf&lt;/a&gt; and search for &quot;Which rim tape should I use&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyre sizes and rim sizes vary slightly, and a combination that is a slightly loose fit will let the tyre blow off at a lower pressure. The label allows for that, at least to a certain extent (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure&lt;/a&gt; and scroll down to &quot;Pressure Recommendations&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a tyre on a rim much narrower than it is intended for can make the rim fail and let a tyre blow off: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&lt;/a&gt;. So can using a badly worn rim, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T08:49:40.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15281" CreationDate="2013-04-15T10:19:24.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The limiting factor for tire pressure is the tire . The manufacturer designs the tire with a maximun pressure the tire case will be able to safely control. Exceeding the reccomended pressure can result in the bead being forced of the rim or the the tire case itself could fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T10:19:24.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15252" CreationDate="2013-04-15T11:00:41.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice is not to clean with anything else but clean water (or desinfection aid, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Because you do not know the effect and if it is save to clean this way. Assume that the person with a wound maybe has allergies - what will happen if you clean the wound with milk or apple juice, and a allergic reaction occurs? This will make things even worse!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are in a city (like mentioned in your question) when such a crash occurs, and you do not have any water with you, you can go in the next pub, store, whatever, and ask for some water to clean the wound.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are travelling longer trips or outside a city (where you should have some water with you anyway), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bigsiteofamazingfacts.com/can-urine-be-used-as-a-disinfectant-to-kill-germs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;you can use urine as wound cleaner&lt;/a&gt;. You may find it disgusting, but if it is a &lt;strong&gt;real&lt;/strong&gt; emergency situation, you will not care about that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T04:13:36.237" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T04:13:36.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15275" CreationDate="2013-04-15T12:08:57.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible solutions:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - Let a bike mechanic ream the seat tube slightly&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - Wrap some sanding paper around a broomstick or similar an grind the sharp edges&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T12:08:57.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15354" CreationDate="2013-04-15T14:18:55.357" Score="7" ViewCount="12636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to replace the cable of a Sturmey Archer hub, but can't find a way to disassemble the old cable without destroying it, and it puzzles me how to insert the new cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To better explain, I have five elements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cable tip 1 (top)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cable tip 2 (bottom)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The adjusting part (for the lack of the proper term, I'm refering to the cylindric piece that screws into the hub's cable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The housing of the cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found a way to remove the cable (1) because tip 1 and 2 (2, 3) are attached to the cable, and the adjusting part (4) also is attached and doesn't pass through tip 2 (3). The housing is also too small for the rest to pass through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't mind keeping the current cable, but would really like to know how to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo to document this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGVVS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sturmey Archer cable removal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another one showing the &quot;adjusting part&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1BcU.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Adjusting part&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastEditorUserId="1280" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T16:02:17.533" LastActivityDate="2019-07-11T13:32:37.540" Title="How to replace a Sturmey Archer's cable?" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15659" CreationDate="2013-04-15T14:28:54.627" Score="1" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inherited a bike with a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub (Sturmey Archer AW, from 1984).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very familiar with free-wheels and cassete hubs, but this is fairly new to me, although I did some research on the internet, I couldn't find anywhere that had a hub spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I am probably going to disassemble it (I have seen some videos, it won't be easy but is doable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that there is a (IMO) fairly big amount of &quot;play&quot; (is this the term?) when I rotate the cog counter-clockwise (direction of coasting) and then rotating clockwise (drive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say it is about 2 cm of &quot;play&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the amount shown here too much, or is this normal?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://imgflip.com/i/142f2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Animated gif showing the hub play&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastEditorUserId="1280" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T15:40:55.913" LastActivityDate="2021-01-25T13:12:41.847" Title="How much &quot;play&quot; is normal in a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15288" CreationDate="2013-04-15T14:33:27.847" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not familiar with sturmey archers, but on regular gear/brake cables you can just cut off that small top near the bottom of the picture. It's really just there to keep the cable from fraying and you can get replacements from your local bike store for about $0.02. If you grip it with a pair of pliers and pull hard enough you can sometimes just pull them off so the cable doesn't get shortened. I'm not sure how would remove the &quot;adjusting part&quot; or if it would just slide off when you removed the tip off the same end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T14:33:27.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15292" CreationDate="2013-04-15T16:01:41.743" Score="1" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I have a pair of the prana Zion Stretch pants with these little 'snaps' around the area described in title. This allows you to basically roll up your pant leg(s) (ideal for moving out of the way of the chain) and 'snap' them into place. 'Snaps' being pairs of mating buttons closed by applying pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for something similar, that is, something integrated into the pant itself, as opposed to a separate 'ankle collar' for any pants you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4961" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T16:16:28.263" Title="Looking for alternate pants with 'snaps' around calf and/or shin area" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15291" CreationDate="2013-04-15T16:16:28.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For next to nothing you can install snaps on any pair of pants you want:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PgGn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Snaps&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are kits with anvils and presses and others with plier-type setting tools. Both work well and both are cheap. I'd suggest trying it out on a similar piece of material so that you can get a feel for how they work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00004Y698&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link for a cheap kit ($4.92 USD!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for more adjustability, you can sew velcro right into the cuff of your pants as well. (And while you're at it, you can buy reflective piping and reflective ribbon to increase your visibility.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T16:16:28.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15270" CreationDate="2013-04-15T17:58:41.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Manitou Black with reverse arch (an old model) and it seems to me that the posts get dirtier than if it was a front arch model. Specifically, the grime that comes &quot;in the air&quot; hits the posts directly (without the arch acting as a sort of protection), and the mud that comes with the tire ends up getting everything dirty anyway, sooner or later. Also, since the O-ring around the posts is tilted backwards due to steering angle, mud actually tends to form a deposit behind the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, I have rim brakes attached to the brake posts, and due to the arch being behind, I am forced to use a brake booster, otherwise the blades of the fork flex A LOT while braking, with poor performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I agree with the ones that think it's more marketing than engineering. Besides, if you Google &quot;dual arch suspension fork&quot; there are already some models around, and I have seen at least one &quot;middle arch&quot; fork, though I can't remember the brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T17:58:41.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15278" CreationDate="2013-04-15T18:09:29.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Giant has a better saddle and a better handlebar/stem;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Myiata has pedals with footstraps already;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending of your height, the Giant's frame is relatively small (short seat tube), while the Myiata is much taller;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Myiata looks like an old road bike converted to fixie, while the Giant looks like a track (velodrome) oriented bike. Surprisingly, this makes the Myiata a better bike to ride in the street, since it would be easier to fit some brakes, and it is designed to stand rougher terrain better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I could choose, I would swap the saddle and the handlebar/stem between bikes, and keep the Myiata with a front brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, these facts are NOT enough for you to make the choice, but I hope they help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T18:09:29.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-15T18:13:24.763" Score="2" ViewCount="21041" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whichever direction I rotate my pedals, the wheel rotates. And when I move the wheel, same thing. How do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a clip: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/rVpPuqiwQTo?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the model: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_786803_langId_-1_categoryId_165499&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_786803_langId_-1_categoryId_165499&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1361" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T01:25:44.543" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T16:50:14.143" Title="Why do my pedals move when I move my wheel in both directions? How do I fix it?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-15T18:15:27.677" Score="-2" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does chain slip when I move my pedals? How do I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a clip: &#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/FqdABuPRH68?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the model: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_786803_langId_-1_categoryId_165499&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_786803_langId_-1_categoryId_165499&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1361" LastEditorUserId="1361" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T05:03:25.083" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T23:05:21.887" Title="Why does chain slip when I move my pedals?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15296" CreationDate="2013-04-15T20:31:28.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A derailleur is designed to work properly only in the other direction. Back-pedalling like this is not recommended with a derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't get that 'slack' you mention if you just pedal forwards. Don't try to make the bike do things it isn't designed for :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; In watching that, I hadn't realised you change direction halfway through - guessing, like with your other question, that the chain and freewheel just need some TLC - try and see if any of the links are difficult to move against each other. If so, see if you can use a cleaner and then a lubricant. If that doesn't work, try a new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T17:31:21.620" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T17:31:21.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2013-04-15T20:42:54.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than likely the crank arm is not sitting on the BB spindle correctly, very common! See if you can define where the creak originates, if it is from the chainset side, the following will apply;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps slightly dirty when installed, both the spindle and the corresponding contact surface of the crank arm or chainset must be clean then greased on installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem recently. Removed the chainset, cleaned, greased and re-installed, problem solved!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6633" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T20:42:54.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15296" CreationDate="2013-04-15T21:00:32.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like &lt;em&gt;Chain Suck&lt;/em&gt; to me. Your rear cassette likely needs to be cleaned. A toothbrush and some water will do a good job of this. While you're at it it would be a good time to clean your entire drive train. More info on Chain Suck can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5368" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T21:00:32.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15295" CreationDate="2013-04-15T21:16:15.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This bike definitely has a derailleur and is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; intended to operate as a fixie (i.e. something is definitely broken.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A normally functioning multi-speed bicycle has a mechanism that allows it to pedal forward and coast (freewheel) when standing on the pedals. Many older or cheaper bicycles have a &quot;freewheel&quot; which accomplishes this. Other bicycles have a freewheel integrated into the hub body, a &quot;freehub.&quot; They're essentially the same mechanism - a ratchet with a few pawls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all likelihood, the pawls inside of the freehub or inside of the freewheel have seized or have come apart. Procure a can of penetrating oil and spray the seam where the cogs and the hub meet (i.e. where it is supposed to rotate. I've included a photo with arrows indicating where to spray. Be careful not to get oil on your rims or brake pads.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't loosen it up, you'll need to either replace the freewheel or overhaul/replace your rear hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w6ueV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cassette and Freewheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T21:24:07.283" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T21:24:07.283" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15295" CreationDate="2013-04-16T00:31:23.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you flip the bike upside down (as you have done), then &quot;pedal&quot; in the &quot;right&quot; direction (as if you were trying to make the bike move forward), then let go of the pedal, the pedal should stay stationary (or maybe drift around slowly) and the chain should remain relatively straight and taut.  If, when you let go, the pedal keeps moving pretty much at full speed or the chain bunches up, then the freehub/freewheel is not &quot;free&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case, the first thing to check is for any sort of trash (leaves, string, etc) caught between the large rear sprocket and the hub.  If you find nothing then the rear wheel needs to be serviced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your mechanical ability is apparently quite limited, I'd suggest you take the bike to a shop, rather than attempt to fix it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T00:31:23.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-16T02:17:31.497" Score="6" ViewCount="2958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some higher cog front gears for an old bike I am considering. I've been away from it for some time and don't know the current number of cogs on the front ring, but I am looking to maybe put a really large ring on it. I just find that there are times I need one or two more gears to shift up to. I don't always ride in the highest gear, but I have way too much in the lower range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to switch to a larger front ring to boost my higher end range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6634" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T17:14:07.450" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T17:14:07.450" Title="How can I increase the highest gear ratio?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15305" CreationDate="2013-04-16T04:27:32.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some background on the front chainrings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of bikes have a front derailleur, allowing more than one chainring. Some bikes have a single front chainring and no derailleur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're called chainrings rather than cogs (which are at the back).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are typically either 3 or 2 chainrings on the front crankset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are 2 chainrings, there are two 'flavours': Compact (with smaller rings, eg: 50 tooth and 34 tooth) or Standard (with larger rings eg: 53 tooth and 39 tooth)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another important stat is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter)&lt;/a&gt;. This is the diameter of the circle described by the bolts attaching the chainring to the crankset. A common figure is 130mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have a few factors to consider, and there's more information we need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have a front derailleur?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many chainrings are in the front?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What make and model do you currently have?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many teeth are on each chainring?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many cogs are you your rear cassette?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many teeth are on the smallest and the largest cog on the cassette?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this information we can give you some advice. Just as an alternative, you can also replace the cassette at the back to change your gear ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T04:27:32.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6548" CreationDate="2013-04-16T06:10:46.677" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike tires are treaded to grab on customers rather than the road. Obviously, different tread patterns will perform differently off road, that is: on earth, mud, gravel, sand, roots..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT - contrary to popular belief - on the road, whether it is concrete, tarmac or asphalt, treads will do nothing except offer a slightly slower ride and at the same time, less grip on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On car tires treads have one main function, and that is to channel away water to allow most rubber possible to be in contact with the road. Because of the broad square profile of the car tire, at higher speeds water is 'caught' by the tire too fast for it to escape to the sides, causing the tire to'float' on the water - hydroplaning. Good tread patterns can reduce this effect dramatically.&#xA;A secondary function of treaded tires - at least for most of us who seldom leave the tarmac/concrete - is of(f) course better traction on soft surfaces.&#xA;On dry tarmac/concrete treads have no effect at all, other than reducing the contact with the surface. In other words, treading will increase contact with surface driving through a puddle of rainwater, but decrease contact under dry conditions. The treaded tire is a compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only own one bike with one set of wheels and you ride this bike year in and out, both on and off the road, then you would need to compromise too. But many of us sports more than one bike; we grab our MTB for trekking and reach for our roadbike/hybrid/city commuter when we're on those hard, smoother surfaces. In the latter case a treaded tire has no positive effect what so ever - even if it rains. Here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydroplaning on a bike is virtually impossible. Because of the bike tires narrow rounded profile, water is lead to the sides (like a boat cutting through water), ensuring sufficient contact with the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then what about the wet surfaces? Those slippery curbstones, road paint, manhole covers? Won't treaded tires help at all? Apart from the placebo effect for some riders, the simple answer - backed by physics - is no. Basically, if the treaded pattern don't leave an impression on the surface, it cannot have any effect in regards to traction. You might add water or oil, still those treads will not help you. The same goes for ice. In fact, the only situation where a (heavily) treaded tire will give you better traction within the city limits might be on some types of snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All experiments on traction supports this fact and all tire developers know this, yet when you enter a bike store to buy a set of new tires for your hybrid, you are offered treaded tires over slicks in a ratio of 20:1. Why?&#xA;1. because the customer believes in treaded traction&#xA;2. the shop owner also believes this&#xA;3. the customer wants to chose between different products, and choosing between 20 different types of slicks doesn't seem to be much of a choice.&#xA;4. the customer wants something new and improved, and 'hey, you had 20 different types of slicks when I was here last'&#xA;5. the tire producers know their customers and to keep them buying their stuff - they offer  &quot;something new and improved&quot;. They of course know that less costy than actually researching and developing new stuff, is making slight cosmetic changes to existing designs. Thread patterns in road bike tires most definitely belongs to the department of cosmetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does that mean that any (no-)treaded tire will do? Well, certainly not! Tire profile, thick vs. thin walls, type of rubber compound - there are many factors that will affect grip and traction, tread not being one of them. Also how much air you pump into a tire will affect this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those below zero winter days with ice and snow, however, a set of slicks is not recommended. But that also goes for the other regular threaded tires. The only remedy for icy roads are tires with steel/metal spikes. Unfortunately - these tires suck at anything other than icy/snowy conditions. If you live in a part of the world with cold winters, the best thing to do is loading a second pair of wheels with spiked tires, like Schwalbe Ice Spiker or Nokian Extreme, and swapping wheels when the conditions call for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride my bike(s) to work and for fun. I have a cheap, old &quot;winter bike&quot; for those to-and-from-work snowy days, but my other two tarmac/concrete/asphalt bikes - an old Colnago and a C.dale Bad Boy never wear anything but slicks. Infact, within city limits, I have used slicks only since the mid '90s. Yesterday I received a new pair of Schwalbe Kojak's (26/fat) for my Bad Boy = full control, come rain or shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6635" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T06:10:46.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15242" CreationDate="2013-04-16T06:27:42.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two major risks associated with limiting your physical activity to cycling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Increased risk of broken bones&lt;/strong&gt; - your bone density decreases due to little strain being put on them - see here for details: &lt;a href=&quot;http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/07/01/is-bicycling-bad-for-your-bones/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/07/01/is-bicycling-bad-for-your-bones/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Increased risk of twisted ankles&lt;/strong&gt; -  if the volume of cycling you do is large compared to the volume of walking you do (a common thing with bike commuters I guess), you may weaken your foot stabilizers, which may cause injuries. Two years ago I started getting twisted ankles - this coincided with the year I became an all year-round bicycle commuter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solution:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Go running at least once a week. Not only will it prevent injuries, it will also increase your comfort while cycling (stronger back muscles). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6636" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T06:27:42.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6548" CreationDate="2013-04-16T06:35:23.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've spent the whole winter in Poland cycling snow and ice on a pair of 700x35c Schwalbe Road Cruiser slicks. They performed pretty well, since my road to work was pretty level and I didn't need to do any serious uphill. I just had to account for a longer stopping distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6636" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T06:35:23.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15305" CreationDate="2013-04-16T08:00:26.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest way is to take the bike to your LBS and ask them what the options are. The answer may be limited by what they have in stock and might cost more than buying parts on the Internet, but they'll do the work for you and you'll be sure that the parts they supply will work together or they'll be obliged to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do it yourself, start by counting the number of teeth on the chainrings at the front and the cogs at the back (aka the cassette). Then you can plug the numbers into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gear calculator&lt;/a&gt;. That gives you a table of either gain ratios or gear inches which can easily be compared to other cobinations of rings/cogs you might consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that not all drivechain parts are compatible and it's safest to stick within the same brand/model. Also, if you significantly change the size of the cogs/rings, your existing deraileur and chain may not have enough scope to take up the slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T08:00:26.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15312" CreationDate="2013-04-16T11:34:12.770" Score="9" ViewCount="2834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently started hitting my local velodrome in Herne Hill and it's great fun.&#xA;I notice the majority of experienced riders use road pedals such as Look or SPD-SL. The rental bikes just have toe-clips and straps but I, among others, bring along my own pedals which are SPD which work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed when watching the Olympics and other pro velodrome events that the riders appear to have straps on their pedals. What system are they using? Does it combine a road pedal with a strap for extra stiffness or is it a secret custom-made system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T04:13:55.017" Title="What's the foot retention used by pro track cyclists?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15311" CreationDate="2013-04-16T11:49:13.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's as you suggest, a combination of a standard road cleat and straps as a 'belt and braces' approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick google showed some packages of both sold &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velodromeshop.net/index.php?p=product&amp;amp;id=812&quot;&gt;together&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2860" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T11:49:13.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15305" CreationDate="2013-04-16T15:11:14.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually there are three types of road gearing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compact Double (50 / 34) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traditional Double (53 / 39)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the numbers is the number of teeth on each ring. Very old racers (pre-90s) tended to be very different, so it depends on what you mean by old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern road bikes come with a Compact Double chainset these days, older bikes normally have closer groupings because the derailleurs at the time couldn't deal with the range. If you largest chainring on the front is larger than 53, I doubt you would need larger gearing and maybe you might think about riding at a higher cadence instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most rear cassettes have 12-26 teeth on the back for systems that 7 speed or higher in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel you need to change the front chainrings, you need to know the number of arms the crank arm has and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BCD&lt;/a&gt;. It usually says on the chainring, or as others had said ask your local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6638" LastEditorUserId="6638" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T15:17:29.673" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T15:17:29.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15282" CreationDate="2013-04-16T15:19:36.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;9-speed chain is slightly narrower, so a &quot;9-speed&quot; front derailleur might have plates slightly closer together, but that's not going to make a lot of difference:&#xA; &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html#derailers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html#derailers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the FD M550 worked with a 7-speed 44-32-22 crankset, it will work with the 9-speed equivalent, but a new 9-speed might shift very slightly better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T15:19:36.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15318" CreationDate="2013-04-16T15:56:39.590" Score="2" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my bottom bracket cartridge because it is knackered. After a bit of reading it seems that there may be many types of cartridge variations (axle lengths, threads, size of square taper, etc etc). So I'm not sure how to fully specify the required replacement so I can be certain it will fit (other than buying the exact same part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old part is marked as a Stronglight JP400 122mm.&#xA;Chainset is Shimano.&#xA;Bottom bracket shell width is about 69mm (as near as I can measure it). Frame is aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6640" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-12-18T07:17:51.670" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T07:17:51.670" Title="Bottom bracket Stronglight JP400 equivalents" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15324" CreationDate="2013-04-16T16:16:00.477" Score="1" ViewCount="4220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried repainting my plastic mudguards (fenders) using automotive spray paint. It went on easily and covered well with two coats, but it has no abrasion resistance at all. Within a few weeks my paint job was full of holes where I'd parked the bike leaning on something, and where I'd D-locked the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a kind of paint more suited to this task?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T16:21:45.307" Title="What kind of paint should I use on my plastic mudguards?" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15315" CreationDate="2013-04-16T17:11:49.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you say, you need a bottom bracket with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;length = 122mm (as you state)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;width = 68mm (you say 69mm, but 68mm is a standard size, could you be 1mm out?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;JIS standard taper (this will make sense to you when you start looking at BBs, the other standard is ISO. In JIS, &quot;J&quot; equals Japan, I suspect in JP400, &quot;JP&quot; also equals Japan)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's one last variable, unfortunately. This is how the bottom bracket attaches to the frame. It screws in, but there are two different types of thread in common use, English and Italian. The type of threading used depends on the manufacturer of your bike. As a generalisation, Italian threads are (surprisingly) used mostly by Italian makers, the rest of the world pretty much uses English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, most likely you'll want an English thread, but you should check this (do you know the manufacturer of the frame?) before buying as the two threads are most definitely not compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB as always there's a page on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html#stronglight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's website&lt;/a&gt; with good information on BBs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T17:27:30.403" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T17:27:30.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15322" CreationDate="2013-04-16T18:25:26.230" Score="15" ViewCount="2156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Qualifying offenses for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sex_offender_registry#Application_to_offenses_other_than_felony_sexual_offenses&quot;&gt;sex offender registry&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;can &lt;a href=&quot;http://freestudents.blogspot.com/2009/12/pee-nal-code-and-sex-crimes.html&quot;&gt;include public urination&lt;/a&gt;. Though the chance may be small, the potential consequences are severe. Unfortunately, bladders are apparently designed in ignorance of these laws. A few obvious solutions, such as intentionally becoming dehydrated or only riding in urban settings, are impractical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can cyclists avoid becoming sex offenders when nature calls on long rides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T21:58:05.563" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T16:41:40.813" Title="How can I mitigate the risk of public urination charges on long rides?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15340" CreationDate="2013-04-16T18:43:57.563" Score="50" ViewCount="127350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to ride relatively modest gear (Tiagra/Ultegra), but when I'm riding near higher-end bikes, I sometimes notice that the clicking sound that comes from their cassette/free-wheel while coasting seems to be much louder and more distinct than on my bike.  Why is this?  Intuitively, one would expect that a quieter drive-train would be an indicator of greater efficiency, but that doesn't seem to be the case here.  Is it something to do with different construction, or materials?  Can you get 'quiet' high-end cassettes, or is being noisy while coasting the price you must pay for being efficient while pedaling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4784" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T06:40:39.827" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T02:24:55.943" Title="Why are higher-end freewheels so much louder when coasting?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15320" CreationDate="2013-04-16T19:54:50.107" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plan your route accordingly.  Make sure there's a couple gas stations or restaurants along the way that you could stop at if the need arises. It's probably a good idea to be somewhat close to civilization not only for urination purposes, but also in case you have some major mechanical problem with your bike, or you fall and get hurt.  This doesn't mean your route has to be urban, but you should be able to plan a route such that you pass by some kind of civilization every 40-60 minutes.  Alas, if you are that far out, you could always go off a side road or into the bush and relieve yourself there.  If you're so far from civilization that you can't make it to a gas station, odds are that there won't be many cops around to prosecute you either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T19:54:50.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15320" CreationDate="2013-04-16T20:06:52.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously the best solution is planning. If you know that you are going on a particularly long ride, try and figure out and plan ahead where you will take care of business. Of course this isn't always possible, since sometimes nature calls at rather inopportune times...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you aren't willing to go for the obvious &lt;a href=&quot;http://psychling1.blogspot.com/2010/12/use-of-external-catheter-for-racing-or.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;catheter based solutions&lt;/a&gt;, there are ways you can urinate in public which do not attract much attention. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MsEaRbVuzs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This guy&lt;/a&gt;* outlines a few techniques include the piss cup, the newspaper tube, and others. The best is probably the piss cup, in which you discretely place a cup where it matters, making sure to cover all the relevant bits, and answer both nature's call, and a &quot;call&quot; on your cell phone (for distraction). The newspaper roll works similarly, except that the observant passerby may notice an odd yellow stream coming from the end of the rolled up newspaper...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find yourself in a more rural area, you may be able to use your local surroundings to your advantage. Perhaps there is a bush or a tree which can block the view from the road. In this rural area, you are unlikely to see a cop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Warning: the second half of the youtube video (about 5:27) shows a man's rump, which you (or others around you) may not want to see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4123" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T20:06:52.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15316" CreationDate="2013-04-16T20:31:23.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first step would be to scuff the surface with a Scotch Brite pad. You want some minor surface imperfections for the paint to adhere to. Clean the surface with either alcohol or what the instructions for the particular paint call for. I am partial to automotive brake cleaner. If you can get it, use Rustoleum Spray specifically for plastic. Apply two coats of primer. Allow it to dry between coats. Then apply two color coats. You have to use a paint intended for plastic because conventional paint will not flex without cracking or chipping . As @Daniel R Hicks has stated, allow the paint to fully cure before it experiences any contacts. If you can set it in the sun for a couple of days it should excelerate the hardening. Even doing this the paint may chip if the fender experiences severe flexing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T20:31:23.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-16T21:17:47.563" Score="4" ViewCount="1547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm coming from Canada and will be riding in the London-Edinburgh-London randonneuring ride which finishes in Loughton. The London Underground info. shows that I can take my bike on the Central line and shows it until Leyton. Does this mean I have to get off at Leyton or can I continue on to Bank station? Do the allowable stations mean that's where I'm allowed to board or can I continue?&#xA;Thanks - Terry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6644" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T12:43:31.173" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T12:43:31.173" Title="Can I take a bike into central London on the Underground?" Tags="&lt;london&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-11-01T16:43:55.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15328" CreationDate="2013-04-16T21:30:24.303" Score="0" ViewCount="903" Body="&lt;p&gt;My heavy bike (~15 kg) has thick wheels, the rim width of each is about 3 cm. Accordingly, the tires are also thick (~4.5 cm). Unless the tires are fully pumped up, the bike is difficult to ride and is considerably slow (due to significant traction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of replacing the wheels with thinner ones. Is this possible in principle? If so, what issues have to be considered before doing that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5579" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T22:12:20.270" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T00:42:39.257" Title="Replacing thick wheels with thinner ones" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15325" CreationDate="2013-04-16T22:00:27.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can take your non-foldable bike only as far west as Leyton on the Central Line and only off peak. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tfl.gov.uk/assets/downloads/bicycle-tube-map.pdf&quot;&gt;map&lt;/a&gt; here shows where cycles can travel on the underground. The green lines are the permitted routes. Where a station is on the route it has access for cycles. The Central Line is a very deep line so once underground it wouldn't be possible to get a bike in and out of a station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a 10km cycle from Leyton to Bank, use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclejourneyplanner.tfl.gov.uk/cycle/XSLT_TRIP_REQUEST2?language=en&quot;&gt;Cycle Journey Planner&lt;/a&gt; to get the appropriate route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to cycle from Leyton to Maryland (~2km) and then catch a Greater Anglia service to Liverpool Street. Once again nonfolding bikes are restricted during peak hours. This is a National Rail overland service but a tube day pass and oyster card would be valid as long as the stations were in the purchased zones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also plenty of overland options, it may be better to complete the whole journey via the overland if available. Unfortunately maps such as this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tfl.gov.uk/assets/downloads/london-rail-and-tube-services-map.pdf&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; show all the overland lines, and is relatively simple to read, but it does not give any indication of geographical distance. Pick up an A to Z street directory (out dated these days!) or do some searches and use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://journeyplanner.tfl.gov.uk/user/XSLT_TRIP_REQUEST2?language=en&quot;&gt;Journey Planner&lt;/a&gt; around where you are staying or entering London to see if there are any better or closer options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T05:30:10.633" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T05:30:10.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15326" CreationDate="2013-04-17T00:42:39.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is that you're riding a BMX bike.  While you can certainly go narrower than 1.75, you can't go much narrower -- maybe to 1.5&quot; (3.8 cm) with the same ISO 406 wheels.  You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to switch to a slightly larger ISO 451 rim and get down to 1-1/8&quot; (2.8cm) width, but it would be quite expensive to swap the rims and spokes, and the tires might not fit your frame anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If rolling friction is an issue for you you'd be advised to switch to an &quot;adult&quot; bike.  Just about any &quot;adult&quot; bike, new or used, will roll significantly easier than the BMX bike -- they're designed for hot-dogging, not riding any distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T00:42:39.257" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9948" CreationDate="2013-04-17T03:10:58.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone knows someone with a bike in their shed or garage that is unloved and unused. Just ask around on social media and one will fall in your lap...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6646" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T03:10:58.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15333" CreationDate="2013-04-17T04:02:36.043" Score="2" ViewCount="8116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 25mm size tyre and I'm ordering some inner tubes on the net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I seem to have a choice between either the 18/25 range or the 25/32 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both would fit but would one size be better than another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the 25/32 tube heavier to accommodate the 32mm tyres and would the 18/25 size tube would be easier to puncture because it's at the maximum stretch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would this be largely negligible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3489" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T12:59:00.243" Title="Should I get a 18/25 tube or a 25/32 tube?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-04-18T20:35:42.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15331" CreationDate="2013-04-17T05:26:44.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in weight is practically non-existent, and puncture resistance is a property of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to pack an 18/25 in your spare parts kit a little easier than the 25/32, but that still isn't much of a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just get whichever is cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T05:26:44.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15321" CreationDate="2013-04-17T08:32:59.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think loudness is not a good indication of efficiency, since loudness (and pitch as well) can be affected by many more factors at same or similar total energy consumption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T08:32:59.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15356" CreationDate="2013-04-17T08:58:03.470" Score="3" ViewCount="730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have shifter with damaged housing. It shifts well, but I guess if housing is not repaied, rain and elements will quickly put an end to it. Which material would be suitable to fix this hole? Epoxy glues? Maybe ones with metal filler? Are there some sensitive parts in the damaged area that I should be carefull not to glue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4vEar.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastEditorUserId="5563" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T11:32:17.170" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T04:04:50.670" Title="How to repair shifter housing" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15336" CreationDate="2013-04-17T09:44:24.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you're seriously skilled with epoxy, I'd say there's a risk of glueing some of the moving parts together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I'd suggest gaffer tape, also known as duct tape or duck tape. It has threads running through it for strength and is pretty weatherproof. If you get it in the wrong place or it wears out it's cheap to try again. The tricky bit will be covering the hole properly. I suggest cutting it to size with scissors as it will end up neater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I wouldn't worry too much about a small amount of water getting in. I doubt they're completely waterproof anyway. If you can keep any mud/grit out that should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T10:04:09.760" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T10:04:09.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15320" CreationDate="2013-04-17T10:42:33.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an external catheter for on-the-road urination while riding the recumbent. For upright and other bikes you might make some changes. Here is what, how and why I do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://psychling1.blogspot.com/2010/12/use-of-external-catheter-for-racing-or.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://psychling1.blogspot.com/2010/12/use-of-external-catheter-for-racing-or.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use this device in work meetings, on long car trips or when I go to lectures or the symphony.  In these situations I simply strap a very small Camelbak bladder to my calf, just under the knee.  Discreet.  Civilized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6648" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T10:42:33.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15344" CreationDate="2013-04-17T12:16:10.967" Score="8" ViewCount="10672" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to safely set the seat to the max to get the saddle as far forward as it will go. Or should it only be clamped within the marked range 0 to 3.5? I have marked the points in red. The reason I ask is because I don't want the saddle to tilt forward while riding if I have it set to max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PIwLc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4723" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T23:19:51.010" Title="How much of the saddle rail is suiteable to use" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15321" CreationDate="2013-04-17T12:38:49.567" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the noise comes from pawls on the freewheel hitting against the splines on the engagment surfaces which makes up the racheting unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some reasons for the noise between freewheels?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tension on pawls could be higher causing more noise as they glide over the engagment surfaces&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;High end freewheels have more pawls and engagement points than lower end freewheels, so there are more ridges in the engagement surface and more pawls hitting the splines on the engagement surface. The reason this is desirable is that more pawls and engagement points means faster engagement when you start pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Different grease (or less grease) could also be used inside higher end freewheels that is less viscous and provides less resistance, allowing the spring action of the pawls to cause more noise as they float over the the splines on the engagement surface since they are less restricted by the grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are exceptions to these.  Some hubs don't use your standard racheting mechanism and use a 'roller clutch' instead. The roller clutches tend to be very quiet, but are more prone to failure.Here's a good description of how those work.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://pardo.net/bike/pic/mobi/d.winners-hub/index.html&quot;&gt;http://pardo.net/bike/pic/mobi/d.winners-hub/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T12:45:49.540" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T12:45:49.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15331" CreationDate="2013-04-17T12:59:00.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to prefer smaller tube sizes when I have this choice because there is less material to bunch up when installing and it's less likely to get pinched between the tire bead and the rim during installation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage can be when patching.  Smaller tubes need to stretch more to fill the space, and patches may not stretch as much or as evenly depending on the type of patch you use. It's rarely a deal breaker, but you need to just be careful when fitting the patch on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T12:59:00.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15347" CreationDate="2013-04-17T13:12:24.843" Score="13" ViewCount="1639" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preparing for a 100mile ride in August I was thinking of following a training plan which came in a &quot;Sportive Guide&quot; given away with Cycling Plus magazine this month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the days on the plan mention training for an hour before breakfast in order to burn fat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just about losing weight? (If so, I'm pretty sure I don't need to since I'm 6ft tall and weigh about 67kg) Or is there some reason that training before breakfast is somehow better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5820" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T08:57:30.070" Title="Training fasted: just about weight loss?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15339" CreationDate="2013-04-17T13:21:47.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as no part of the clamp touches the rails outside the max lines, you should be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scale is simply there to help you. It would be nice if it ran right up to the max lines, but it might still be helpful depending on the size/design of your clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T13:21:47.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15343" CreationDate="2013-04-17T15:11:34.590" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exercise is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/sportsnutrition/a/Energy_Pathways.htm&quot;&gt;fuelled&lt;/a&gt; by a combination of carbohydrate and fat. In theory, if you exercise while your body is deprived of carbohydrate it will become better at utilising fat for energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmillanrunning.com/articlePages/article/2&quot;&gt;running coaches&lt;/a&gt; advocate this approach for marathon training:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any carbohydrates ingested will be used by the body for fuel, and we don't want this. We want to deny the body carbohydrates in these runs so that the muscles will become better at sparing the carbohydrate stores, more efficient at burning fat and used to running with lowered blood glucose levels. Now, many people think I'm crazy when I say this, but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I wouldn't do it. It's a lot of pain for what is probably a very small gain. If you're looking to wring every last bit of performance out of your body it's worth trying though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T15:11:34.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15336" CreationDate="2013-04-17T16:20:46.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try some sugru, a moldable rubber like putty, it should provide a seal against water and cover the opening. It's great for repairs, and you can get it in small packs.  You can find more info at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sugru.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sugru.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T16:20:46.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15343" CreationDate="2013-04-17T16:50:20.767" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advice in book &lt;a href=&quot;http://racingweight.com/&quot;&gt;Racing Weight&lt;/a&gt; by Matt Fitzgerald goes something like this, paraphrased:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, training without carbohydrates will train your body to use stored fat better. But your capacity to train will go down (not enough fuel!), and net result will be less improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It references &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.optimalperformance.co.uk/publications-main/publications/achten-2004&quot;&gt;this study&lt;/a&gt;, which compares two groups of athletes on hi-carb and low-carb diet during a hard training block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the general themes of the book is, you want to improve your performance and body composition, not your weight per se. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="679" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T16:50:20.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15281" CreationDate="2013-04-17T17:36:47.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Innertube failure can be caused by a variety of factors, and it is usually possible to determine the cause by examining the failed innertube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned: &quot;In the last week, two innertubes on two different bikes exploded&quot;. If it literally exploded into many small pieces, then you were probably the target of a saboteur. :) More likely, the innertube has a single tear or puncture, and its size and location will help you track down the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A small puncture along the outer side is usually caused by road debris. Since you ask about tire pressure, it's worth mentioning that high pressure can increase the chance of puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A tear at the valve can be caused by the age of the innertube or by poor inflating technique--using a hand pump without holding the valve steady can easily tear an innertube. This problem is not directly affected by tire pressure (but trying to reach a really high pressure with a hand pump could increase the risk).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A tear on the inner side of the tube can be caused by spokes and may indicate a problem with rim tape or low-quality rims. Note that low-quality rims can limit the maximum tire pressure. I had a mountain bike (used for city riding) which had high-quality tires with a maximum pressure around 90 psi. However, the rim left the spokes very exposed, and inflating above about 45 psi would cause the innertube to stretch near each spoke and eventually lead to a tear. There's only so much rim tape can do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two small holes in the tube are usually pinch flats, which are caused by tire pressure being too low.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main factor limiting tire pressure is the tire itself, but some problems can be caused or exacerbated by tire pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T17:36:47.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-17T18:46:05.937" Score="2" ViewCount="30409" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a bicycle that is locally owned that I want to buy and the only information I have about the bicycle frame from the dealer is that it's just a OCLV 110. With a couple of zoom-ins and research, I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; this is Trek 2002 5900 USPS bike, is this correct?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lLx1N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is the picture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6653" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T18:59:42.527" Title="How can I tell what frame model/year this bicycle is?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-04-18T20:34:07.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15349" CreationDate="2013-04-17T18:55:04.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://Www.bikepedia.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bikepedia&lt;/a&gt; is a good resource for indentifying models, year and spec levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T18:55:04.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15349" CreationDate="2013-04-17T18:59:42.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way of telling is different for every brand and model. Usually, by a combination of serial numbering, or color of the frame, you can sometimes figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not enough information present in the picture to determine for sure exactly what that bike is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T18:59:42.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15343" CreationDate="2013-04-17T19:49:49.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not just fat utilization but also glycogen, a chemical resembling starch that is stored in the liver and also directly in the muscles.  I don't know the ideal conditions for doing so, but the muscles can be &quot;trained&quot; to store more glycogen.  (In part this is what causes muscles to &quot;bulk up&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably training in conditions where the blood glucose level is low would help to &quot;train&quot; the muscles to store glycogen, though this would be a long-term thing, over months, not something to work on a few days before a big ride.  And glycogen is important not only because it can help to fuel muscles several hours into a long ride, after blood glucose is exhausted, but also because it can help provide &quot;peak energy&quot; even when one is well-fed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that burning fat directly in the muscles is quite inefficient and can lead to &quot;ketosis&quot;, causing a sense of fatigue and loss of mental acuity.  Fat is more efficiently &quot;burned&quot; in the liver, but the rate of fat processing by the liver is insufficient to support a sustained high-energy effort.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs to be remembered that there is a lot of really crappy advice out there, often from &quot;experts&quot;, re nutrition.  Probably 80% is bogus.  In particular, many &quot;experts&quot; who talk about &quot;burning fat&quot; have probably never even heard of glycogen.  My &quot;expert&quot; opinion is informed by having a genetic disorder (myoadenylate deaminase deficiency) that affects how muscles use energy, so I've taken interest in these topics for decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T11:56:29.850" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T11:56:29.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2013-04-17T21:18:36.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told by a locksmith never to use graphite on locks that stay outdoors (like bike locks) because it mixes with air vapor and turns to mud inside the mechanism. He recommended spraying in a good dose of ether-based cleaner (e.g. electrical contact cleaner) and then a bunch of silicone lube after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keys totally wear out. I've had both a flat key and a tubular key break off in two separate U-locks. It's a pain. So as soon as the lock and key starts to get iffy, ether-clean the lock, lube it, and if it's still iffy, replace your key with a spare ASAP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as tempting as it is (and especially if you're irritated), NEVER force keys with pliers. That was my downfall with the breakage both times. I've learned to get good with an angle grinder metal cutoff wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6656" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T21:18:36.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15288" CreationDate="2013-04-18T03:15:30.237" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct. This is different than &quot;regular&quot; cables. On regular cables you pick the end you want and cut off the other. Thats because the connection on the cut-off end is usually a clamp. You run the cable under a screw/nut and tighten it down. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flqu5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cable clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you just put a cable crimp on the end to protect the cut cable&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jr9nm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cable crimp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your internal hub cable is differnet. The cable and housing is really one piece. You have to replace it all together. I have a similar issue on my Shimano internal 3 speed hub. Luckily you can get an entire replacement set (cable and housing).You can get something like this from Harris Cyclery (I only hype them because a Sheldon Brown article was helpful to this post.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uX4jt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sturmer archer cable&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to make sure that the barrel is the same threading as your &quot;adjusting part&quot; and that you get the length you need. A sales person (or phone call) should get you the exact part. It would probably help to know the model of your hub. It should be engraved or stamped somewhere visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T03:15:30.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15125" CreationDate="2013-04-18T03:35:49.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming my comment above, if your rear derailleur is either RD-5500 or RD-5501 you can find the parts list &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/RD/EV-RD-5500-1736_v1_m56577569830609118.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/RD/EV-RD-5501-2173A_v1_m56577569830609119.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, respectively. Which means you'll either need shimano parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RD-5500: &lt;em&gt;5UN 9806&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;5UN 9807&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RD-5501: &lt;em&gt;Y-5UN 98060&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Y-5UN 98070&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick Googling shows you should be able to pick up a set for ~ $15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, from experience, &quot;close&quot; is not good enough when it comes to pulleys. There are small differences in the size, shape, and especially width of the pulleys from model to model. So get exactly what you need. It might seem like a 10 speed pulley will fit, but you'll get it all put back together and then notice a squeaking noise from improper fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T03:35:49.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15336" CreationDate="2013-04-18T04:04:50.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like you have two options. I'm not sure &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/SL/EV-SL-M530-2684A_v1_m56577569830624962.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is your exact model but the broken piece should just unscrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew what's left and epoxy it together apart from the internal workings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a replacement cover. I couldn't find any online shops selling replacement covers, but a call to Shimano* will probably net you the exact piece you need. You'll need to know the model number which should be displayed somewhere and look like SL-xxxx. I can't imagine a new one will be more than $20.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Shimano American Corp. (949) 951-5003&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T04:04:50.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15311" CreationDate="2013-04-18T04:13:55.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experience, (being an amateur seeing pros at events) a lot of people use Speedplays for better pedal clearance. You can also do something slick like &lt;a href=&quot;http://prollyisnotprobably.com/2010/08/bill-thomsen-speedplay-toe-clip-adapter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to create a clip/cleat combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T04:13:55.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-18T05:22:26.543" Score="5" ViewCount="3593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to be able to use a trailer, either open-air or enclosed to transport multiple bicycles at the same time.  When I google hitch racks the maximum is 5...I am looking for a towable option...do these exist? Where can I find one?  Could I make one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6658" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T17:13:48.600" Title="Is it possible to transport many (up to 12) bikes using some sort of auto-trailer?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;car-rack&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15358" CreationDate="2013-04-18T07:39:33.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live it is common for commercial operator to purpose build trailers for carrying bikes such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=bicycle%20transporting%20trailer&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&amp;amp;hs=Tpk&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla%3aen-US%3aofficial&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=n6JvUfyjJI2fiAeV3IGwAg&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CDkQsAQ&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=855&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option I have seen is custom bike racks for back of any flatdeck trailer or trucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One event here has over 1000 entrants to a relay - they need to transport 1500 bikes on the day, up to 100km..... So it's certainly doable.... I am glad I don't do their logistics planning...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T07:39:33.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15358" CreationDate="2013-04-18T11:24:46.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once constructed a trailer that could in theory handle 8 bikes.  Used it for family biking and for Boy Scout activities.  I used a standard 4x8 utility trailer as the base, and added removable uprights that the bikes could be strapped to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard part is finding some sort of mounting scheme that can accommodate bikes of different sizes and styles (and do so reasonably cheaply).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T11:24:46.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15358" CreationDate="2013-04-18T17:13:48.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely. With a trailer, you can do just about anything you want. With a powerful enough vehicle, you could tow 120 bikes if you felt like it and had the money to build the trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to a northern tool, fleet farm, or some similar store that sells trailer parts, and you can build up a trailer as big as you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use parts like these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://yakima.com/shop/bike/truck-bed/blockhead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://yakima.com/shop/bike/truck-bed/blockhead&lt;/a&gt; to provide fork mounts for your bikes. Otherwise, you can fabricate fixtures that can hold the bikes with front wheels attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T17:13:48.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9734" CreationDate="2013-04-18T17:36:00.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For touring in the high mountains I use Tiagra STIs, a Tiagra 4503 front derailleur, a Deore M530 chainset set up with 48/32/22, an XT M761 rear derailleur and an XT 11-34 cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the FD high enough for the 48T ring means that it won't shift into the granny from the middle when in sprockets 6-9 on the rear, but otherwise this combination works fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found this to be a problematic restriction since if I need the granny I am probably in the lower range of the cassette already, so on a long tour I might accidently leave it in too high a sprocket say 2-3 times.  Note that with a 44T ring the derailleur works fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my advice would be to get an MTB chainset and BB, and move the FD down and it should work fine.   Depending on the chainline of the chainset (usually 50mm for MTB versus 43-45mm for a road triple), you might need to shim out the FD on the drive side of the seat tube so that the reach is correct for the chainset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I use the 48T when trying to set my personal speed records down steep mountains, and this is just too much fun to sacrifice (currently 54.2 mph).  For normal flat cruising with my preferred cadence however, the 32T middle puts the chain right in the middle of the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T17:36:00.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10376" CreationDate="2013-04-18T22:18:22.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On an Android phone, load 'Leveler' by chkuentz, an excellent, free level app that puts out degrees of slope directly. Use the formula, tan(degrees)= percent grade.&#xA; Example: tangent of 3  degrees = 0.052, or 5.2 percent. Either lay your phone on it's side edge, on the road surface, or on your to bar, if it's level with the road. Read off the degrees then covert. Not elegant, but it's cheap and fairly accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6668" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T22:18:22.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2013-04-18T23:01:42.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove your cranks, clean the spindle ends with alcohol (but don't get it on the bearings), then reassemble and torque the bolts to max specified torque with a torque wrench. The issue is very slight contamination between the two parts, leaving a gap for infinitesimal movement. You could also try torquing it first, before disassembly. It must be very tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6668" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T23:01:42.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15374" CreationDate="2013-04-19T12:10:45.723" Score="8" ViewCount="15777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed a small puddle of light oil beneath the rear wheel of our Rohloff-equipped tandem. I'm told that a small amount of leakage is normal and I'm not worried about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that a lot of it falls on the rim and the tire. Obviously it's bad news on the rim for braking, so I'll be wiping it off and possibly cleaning with diluted degreaser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: is exposure to light oil likely to damage the tire? I know some rubbers can be sensitive to certain chemicals, so is hub oil/bike tires (in this case Schwalbe Marathons) such a combination? I would've thought someone else would have had this problem if so, but I'd like to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, are there any products/chemicals should I keep away from tires for fear of degrading the rubber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2019-06-16T01:05:37.823" Title="Can oil/grease damage tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-19T13:39:10.537" Score="3" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm restoring a vintage Peugeot with cottered cranks.  When reattaching the cranks to the bottom bracket spindle, should I grease the pins or put them in dry? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T18:10:13.500" Title="Should I grease pins when re-installing them on cottered cranks?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-19T17:35:28.497" Score="6" ViewCount="19165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experienced rider and I'm looking for some advice on how to adjust my cockpit position. I am a daily commuter, and do regular 40-50k rides on the weekends, and with the warmer weather will work on some 100-200km rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my current bike, I continue to have a problem sliding forward in my seating position. I have short arms and legs compared to my body length (32 inch / 81cm inseam at 6'1&quot;/185 cm tall) and my bike is fairly comfortable if not one size too small. The bars are currently about 2&quot;/5cm below the hieght of the seat. I find that I am consistently sliding forward my seat and pushing back with my arms to stay in a decent position. My saddle is currently pushed as far forward as the current post will allow, and the stem that came with the bike is quite long. The seat post off-set is not large at about 1&quot;. The Brook saddle (B17 Special) is dead level as measured at the rails. I have no knee or back pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I adjust to keep my sit bones on the seat? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shorten the threadless stem to xx cm or so from the current 120ish?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a new seat post that will allow the saddle to come forward more?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a new bike that fits better (Probably not going to happen this year)? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other? Seat height? Seat angle? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stretch more? and get a flatter back, better hip position?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6254" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T16:10:23.930" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T05:59:45.277" Title="Getting the right cockpit position. Sliding forward. What should I adjust to keep my sit bones on the seat?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15371" CreationDate="2013-04-19T18:07:50.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try some different shaped saddles. Possible your Brooks is too wide which would encourage you to slide forward. Your KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) may be too far forward as well which won't help your situation. You might try pushing the seat back on the rails a couple of cm and shortening your stem to 100mm. Try different saddles first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T18:07:50.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15370" CreationDate="2013-04-19T18:10:13.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The grease will aid in installation as well as later removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T18:10:13.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15369" CreationDate="2013-04-19T18:15:33.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Daniel said, a good rule of thumb is to keep oils off rubber and plastics. Some will damage them, some will preserve them, but you don't want either type on your tires. You should be more worried about the fact that the oily spot on your rear tire can cause it to break traction much more easily, especially while braking or cornering. If you're going to be storing the bike for any period of time, just stuff a rag between the spokes up next to the hub to catch and absorb the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T18:15:33.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-19T20:13:10.433" Score="2" ViewCount="1278" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I ride my bike normally, then chain skips like crazy. I know it skips in the front because I stuck some paper in the chain to see if it moved and it didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chainrings:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBLpg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBLpgl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chainrings&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6675" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-04-19T20:17:11.723" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T16:31:52.113" Title="Are these chainrings the reason my chain skips/hops?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15379" CreationDate="2013-04-20T01:38:48.363" Score="12" ViewCount="11201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a touring bike which I use almost exclusively for commuting.  I am thinking about getting a clipless pedal with walkable shoes.  At the same time, my normal shoes which I wear when not cycling need to be replaced, and am thinking that to save money and avoid the need for carrying extra shoes back and forth, instead of buying two shoes I would like to buy a shoe that can both be used as a normal shoe as well as for cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I see that some clipless pedal shoes are &quot;walkable&quot; I don't see much if any data regarding wearing it as a normal shoe all the time.  Preferably I would like to get about the same amount of wear as a regular shoe out of it.   Just for normal everyday walking around the office, out to lunch, and that sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some specific model recommendations or something specific in terms of feature I can look for, or is using the same shoe for both things out of the question?  I think it will be required - and I'm definitely open to - using MTB shoes on a road bike (as I think the increased pedaling efficiency will outweigh the weight drawbacks considering my usage pattern), but if it can't be done I would prefer to not get clipless and just buy some inexpensive shoes and continue to use pedal clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T01:27:19.773" Title="walkable clipless pedal shoe to replace normal shoe?" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15377" CreationDate="2013-04-20T01:45:32.560" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just leave a pair of shoes at the office and change shoes when I get there so I don't have to take them back and forth. It's amazing how much space shoes take up in a backpack/pannier. I think that even the &quot;walkable&quot; shoes aren't that comfortable to be in all day.  And any cycling shoes that you did want to walk around in all day would lose a lot of the advantages for having a dedicated cycling shoe, such as a stiff sole. My office shoes are just cheap ones I picked up at Walmart.  This also has the added advantage that if my cycling shoes get wet from the rain that I always have a dry pair to change in to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T01:45:32.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15377" CreationDate="2013-04-20T03:50:44.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given a choice of clips or &quot;walkable&quot; clipless, I would strongly recommend &quot;walkable&quot; clipless unless you are also attempting to run/walk large distances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2 sets of MTB shoes. One is comfortable for all day walking - not as good as running shoes, as the sole is stiffer. The other is a better show on the bike - but too stiff for a lot of off bike work - great for the odd 100 meter portage..... Depending on the ride and whats happening at each end of it, depends on the shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is clear to me is the compromise - whats best on the bike is a very stiff sole. Off the bike is something more flexible. You need to decide where the priority sits, but I would go for a flexible shoe if all you are doing is commuting - especially if you commute less than an hour a day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as pedal systems - SPD style cleats are the way to go - theres a huge range of MTB shoes that take these - everything from dedicated cycle though to comfortable street shoes.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/06/25/the-casual-clipless-spd-shoe-review-mission-workshops-rondel-vs-chromes-kursk-pro/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heres a review of a couple of steet shoes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-04-20T22:48:35.427" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T22:48:35.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15377" CreationDate="2013-04-20T04:00:23.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem to have misunderstood something here. &quot;Walkable&quot; clipless pedal shoes are not designed to be used as a replacement for normal shoes. These special shoes have a solid plate in them so they do not flex like normal shoes. You can &quot;walk&quot; in them, but you can't run, and you have to be careful while you walk. There is no way you can use them as a normal shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to any bike shop and try on a pair. Then walk a bit in them. You will see their limitations immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T04:00:23.403" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-20T07:55:28.450" Score="2" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to put together a list of foods I can easily replenish in the USA as I tour around the country on my bike. I'm looking for things that are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-perishable or last in 100F heat for at least 4 days (Assuming desert summers in my bags).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preferably light-weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least relatively healthy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low-cost and ready availability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus far I have various thick-skinned fruits/vegetables that should be alright (especially if attached to vine), peanut butter, beans &amp;amp; rice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other suggestions here? I will naturally find information for the area I'm in to scavenge for natural sources of sustenance. However, in the deserts of the southwest where I will be starting this and doing all my training these sources are few and far between so they can't be readily depended upon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6680" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T20:21:36.400" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T16:17:16.780" Title="Food during cross country ride" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-20T10:30:40.603" Score="2" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to buy some reflective tape to stick on my wheels and to my frame to increase visibility at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a look on ebay, it seems there's a variety of different types of reflective tapes with lots of different certifications and prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what the type I should be looking for that is most suitable to be stuck onto a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3489" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T12:24:51.633" Title="What should I be looking for when buying reflective lights for night riding?" Tags="&lt;night-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15382" CreationDate="2013-04-20T12:24:51.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most reflective tapes are quite suitable. I've had good luck with 3M and Avery brands in general, but you need to strike a balance between cost and effectiveness. For example, SOLAS (safety of life at sea) tape is what is used on rescue buoys, life rafts, life vests... it is fantastically reflective and similarly expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other tapes have a finer surface, but still reflect very well. I would recommend only getting white tape as it is the most visible. In terms of placement, here are some ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the inside of your rims between the spokes. You'll have to cut individual strips that do not overlap the braking surface. (This is similar to Velocity's reflective rim coating except that it costs much less and you don't have to build a wheel around it.) Even better would be to cover one half of the rim so that when it rotates the effect seems to blink.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the backs and fronts of your seat stays and fork legs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the backs and fronts of your crank arms to bring attention to your pedaling motion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On pedals or toe clips for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your helmet and other accessories so you're visible off the bike as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean everything with alcohol or some other solvent (especially your rims) to help the tape stick. In my experience, you shouldn't expect to get the tape off so be confident about the placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visibility is a great feature for night riding, but don't skimp on your lights! A bright headlight is an absolute must for any serious night riding as well as two taillights (one as a back up in case your primary goes dead.) Dynamo lighting is a smart investment if you're riding at night very frequently (but you'd still want to use a backup taillight.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T12:24:51.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-20T20:32:11.460" Score="4" ViewCount="1522" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're looking for some bike racks for our school, but we're unsure as to the styles of bike racks and what's best. What features should we be looking for? Are there styles of racks that work well for schools? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment, it's looking like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ezrshelving.com/claw-bike-racks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; for price, capacity and design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YAgm8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YAgm8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Claw bike rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone else has found something better, then please let me know as we're looking to get some sorted fairly quickly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6681" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T17:09:30.857" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T17:09:30.857" Title="bike racks for outdoor use at a school" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;parking-racks&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15371" CreationDate="2013-04-20T21:17:11.977" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try changing the seat angle. I'm tall as you, and had the same problem. I changed to a bigger frame, but the real solution was to set my seat a bit off the horizontal (back is lower than front). Seat and handlebar are at same height. No more sliding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T21:17:11.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15384" CreationDate="2013-04-20T21:50:42.070" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those don't look that great. Students would need a long cable lock in order to lock their bikes. There's no way that they could do it with a U-lock. And the weight of the bike is resting on the spokes, which is not good for them. Also, I'm not sure what level of school you're talking about, but I imagine an elementary school child might have a hard time lifting their bike that high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some features you should look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bike rack should be firmly attached. Ideally, it would be planted in cement. If this isn't an option, it should at least be bolted down and the bolts should not be easily accessible or removable. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rack should either have loops to put locks through or be completely enclosed at the top. A pole with a bulbous protuberance at the top, like a parking meter, is not sufficient. If a person uses a longish cable lock, the bike could easily be lifted over the top.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should be able to park a bike next to it in such a manner that a person could easily get a U-lock around both the frame and at least one wheel, both if the front wheel is removed, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chicagobikes.org/images/theft-lock-graphics.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People shouldn't have to lift their bikes up to get them into a rack. Requiring a person to lift a bike to get it into a rack makes them extremely difficult to use for the elderly, children, and people with disabilities. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This design has become pretty standard where I live and works wonderfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8ery.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Loop Bike Rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's certainly &lt;a href=&quot;http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/09/30/10-finalists-picked-in-bike-rack-contest/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not the only option&lt;/a&gt; though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-04-22T02:02:10.833" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T02:02:10.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15384" CreationDate="2013-04-20T21:52:20.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends a lot on the situation.  At urban public (ie, tax-supported) schools in the US one would generally want something quite rugged and able to stand up to abuse, and also something securely anchored.  Quite often you see simple inverted U shapes of heavy pipe with the bottom ends set in concrete, with multiple copies spaced 1/2 to 3/4 meters apart -- the bikes would be leaned against these and locked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In locations where vandalism and security are not as big an issue you might see racks similar to &quot;The Claw&quot; rack that you linked (though I've never seen that specific style).  A problem with this style, though, is that many bikes will not fit the rack, because the tires are wider or it's a BMX bike with a smallish frame or whatever.  And that specific style makes it hard to securely lock the bike -- you need a long chain or cable to reach from the rack to the frame or back wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely should look at the mix of bikes in your situation, and the need (or not) to securely lock them to &quot;inform&quot; your rack decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T21:52:20.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-20T22:40:47.490" Score="0" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm six months after a double ankle joint fusion surgery.  Both my surgeon and my physio have suggested cycling.  I have a wind trainer and have plinked my road bike on it and being working on my strength now for about four weeks.  I'm up to 35 minutes about fives times a week.  I am permitted to go onto the roads, but am still a little reluctant and am staying at home, inside, for the moment.  Plan to venture outside in the next week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In November I would like to do the Source to Sea race in New Zealand--it's a 120 km road race.  I'm not too worried about racing, but I would like to complete it (it has a nine hour time limit).  I have never cycled that far, ever.&#xA;After five months on crutches, I'm not so fit, but I was a very active person doing swimming and rock climbing.  I'm 5'6&quot;, and about 125 pounds.&#xA;I was hoping for training tips and help.  Thanks in advance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6682" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T12:11:14.490" Title="Recovery from surgery, and want to race in November" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1221" CreationDate="2013-04-21T08:03:35.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried making a bike rack like the original poster's sketch, but wasn't satisfied with the result.  The bikes aren't very stable because the rack only holds the bottom part of the wheel.  It works much better to make the slots vertical instead of horizontal, so almost the full height of the wheel is supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I happened to have some six-foot long 2x4s and some 30-inch 2x4s.  I butted them together and nailed them into a box, with the two long pieces forming the top and bottom of the rack, and the short pieces vertical.  The bottom piece rests on the floor.  I spaced the vertical pieces at varying distances to accommodate different widths of tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBDK3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Very simple bike rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rack (barely) stands up by itself, but becomes stable when you have at least one bike inserted into each side of the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsMPi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6686" LastEditorUserId="6686" LastEditDate="2013-04-21T16:22:37.860" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T16:22:37.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15388" CreationDate="2013-04-21T08:51:59.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome from a fellow Kiwi - love that area of the country. It should be a great ride - nearly all down hill and relatively flat, however keep in mind the short winter days make it difficult sticking to training schedules...... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between now an  November you have heaps of time to get fit enough for the event. It's 160km for the full event - more than big enough to be a challenge - 9 hours is a pretty generous cut off time,  - especially given the 600 vertical meter overall descent.  The top riders are finishing around 4 hours, so if you can make half their speed you still have time up your sleeve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was in your shoes, I would start by pushing your training time out (preferably on the road, but wind trainer is OK to start with), until you can do 1 hour comfortable. I would use a heart rate monitor if doing indoor training to keep me honest. Outdoor I find it useful but not essential. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would drop to no more than 3 days a week (With 1 day between - never back to back days). Once you have comfortably gone an hour, something like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day 1 - Long ride - 5-10% longer each week, slower than race pace &#xA;Day 3 - Medium ride - 70-80% of above, slower than race pace &#xA;Day 5 - 30% of above at faster than race pace / sprints / interval training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional - Only if feeling good and drop the instant you have any symptoms of over training&#xA;Day 2 - Nothing. &#xA;Day 4 - Very slow, easy ride. &#xA;Day 6 - Very slow, easy ride &#xA;Day 7 - Very fast, short ride or sprints- no more than 1/2 hour - ONLY of feeling really good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one key ride is the Day 1 - long slow distance. I would aim to be getting it to 140km about 3-4 weeks out from event. If you (honestly) aren't feeling up to it, don't train - over training is your worst enemy. You &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; drop training rides - it's OK. If you have more than 2 weeks layoff, then you will need to go back a few weeks and built up from there, otherwise, it won't hurt to miss a few, and will do more harm than good if you try to &quot;make up&quot; for it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is lots of plans an information out there - read up on a couple and cherry pick what suits you. Be very aware there is a lot of pop-science behind many of these &quot;plans&quot; - base on extrapolating the results seeing a .0001% performance improvement in an elite athlete and then applying that to &quot;You will go faster if you.......&quot; Essentially read up on our own Arthur Lydiard - his work in the 60's is the foundation of most training schedules today. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's essential to build endurance, then build speed.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T08:51:59.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15377" CreationDate="2013-04-21T09:56:58.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a pair of MTB SPD's on my road bike when I cycle to work - mostly so I can walk in them, but there is no way I would recommend them for wearing at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cleat &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; damage flooring at work. It is as recessed as they can make it, but it still catches on anything raised so you need to be careful where you walk. It is also not good on smooth polished floors - being designed for rough off road use.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is not a very flexible shoe&lt;/strong&gt;, and I shopped around to find the most flexible one in a range of local and large shops.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Leaving a pair of black slip on office shoes at work is just easier - it also means &lt;strong&gt;I don't need to spend the day in a sweaty pair of shoes&lt;/strong&gt; if my commute in was hard/hot work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV, but I think my solution is simplest and gives the best benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T09:56:58.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1221" CreationDate="2013-04-21T10:05:18.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first bike rack design (see my other answer to this question) was easy to make and held a lot of bikes.  It was also free-standing, which is a necessity for those with no available wall space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, there were two problems.  First, it took a lot of floor space in my garage, 6 feet by 11 feet.  Second, there wasn't a good way to use the air space above the bikes.  Therefore, I built Bike Rack 2.0.  The basic idea was to design a free-standing frame upon which to hang the bikes vertically from hooks.  A roof would provide space for boxes of bike parts, wide enough for two copier-paper boxes to fit across the top yet not be so tall that the boxes hit the roll-up garage door. It had to be easy to make by a not-very-skilled carpenter like me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NQeZC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My free standing bike rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the above concerns, this design was driven by the available materials.  I happened to have some old fence posts, approximately 3.5&quot; square.  Four of them were 6 feet long after I cut off (most of) the rotten, termite-infested parts that were underground.  The other two were pressure-treated lumber, approximately 8 feet long.  I also had a number of 2x4s of varying lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conveniently, I determined that I could hang each of my bikes from a hook screwed into a beam 6 feet off the ground without the bottom tire touching the floor.  If you ride larger than 56-cm or have a long wheelbase bike, you may need to make your bike rack a few inches taller than mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bikes hang on hooks screwed into the bottom of each of two parallel horizontal beams.  They hang at an angle, with some overlap.  36-inches of separation between the horizontal beams allowed the bikes to hang without bumping, but since your mileage may vary I encourage you to make your own measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;List of materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;four 6-foot fence posts, approximately 3.5&quot; square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two 8-foot fence posts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;four 6-inch x 1/4-inch bolts, the cheapest available, about 50 cents each at Home Depot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eight washers, two for each bolt, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;four nuts, one for each of the bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;twelve bike hooks (78 cents each from Home Depot, where they are described as &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;ved=0CDQQFjAA&amp;amp;url=http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-25-lb-Screw-In-Bicycle-Hook-18048/202305571&amp;amp;ei=bdh0UdO3CfC42QXP34GwDQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNG75cta3hvjUytBjQdmzIMDUFbIug&amp;amp;sig2=e5UEq5l1IZNbTNaToljlPQ&amp;amp;bvm=bv.45512109,d.b2I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crown Bolt 25 lb. Screw-In Bicycle Hook&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;).  Note that these hooks are rated for 25 pounds.  If your bikes weigh more than this, you should use a different hook.  I hung my 50-pound English 3-speed from one of these hooks, but who knows if this is safe?  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-Heavy-Duty-Hanger-01221/202305458#.UXW5lSt4blQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;These other bike hooks&lt;/a&gt; are rated for 40 pounds, but they cost more than double the price.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bracing:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two 6-foot 2x4s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;six 3-foot 2x4s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two 6-foot 2x2s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nails&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Top deck:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;several 3-foot x 1/2-inch planks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3/4&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spade drill bit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/4&quot; drill bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7/8&quot; drill bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/2&quot; chisel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Socket wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hammer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tape measure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHrC1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1:&lt;/strong&gt; Make two large frame members, out of the fence posts.  The 8-foot long post sits horizontally on top of two vertical 6-foot posts.  Join them using draw bolt joints, as pictured here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Ei7W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin by using the spade drill bit to drill a horizontal 3/4&quot; hole a little more than half way through each vertical 6-foot beam, centered 2 3/4 inches from the end of the post.  Use the chisel to square off the side of the hole that will receive the lower washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8oLa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now drill a vertical 1/4&quot; hole through the top beam and the end of the vertical beam.  The hole needs to end up intersecting the horizontal 3/4&quot; hole in the vertical beam.  Having the horizontal hole already in place gives you a target to aim for when you make this vertical hole.  Using a long drill bit makes it easier to aim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counterbore the hole in the top beam.  Insert the bolt with a washer.  On the other end add another washer and nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SBavn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was challenging to get the lower nut onto the end of the bolt, inside the horizontal hole.  To do this I wrapped some tape around the end of the screwdriver, sticky side out.  I used this to position the nut at the end of the bolt, while I tightened with the socket wrench.  When I discovered that the horizontal hole was too small to get a wrench on the end, I jammed the screwdriver between the nut and the edge of the hole and managed to keep the nut from turning while I tightened the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1 was by far the most time-consuming for me.  An experienced wood worker with better tools might find this easy, but it took half of my construction time (1 of 2 days) to figure out how to do this and bolt the fenceposts together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Nail the two pieces together using 36-inch 2x4s.  To hold them in place during assembly, I leaned one of them against the wall, and tied the other one to a ladder using some old inner-tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result resembles a long, narrow table 6 feet tall.  I put one 2x4 at floor level, another 2x4 in the middle, and a third 2x4 on top of each end of the horizontal beam. The lower 2x4s go on the inside; if the long diagonal went on the inside it would create more interference with the bike that hangs next to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 3:&lt;/strong&gt; Nail a diagonal 6-foot 2x4 cross brace across each of the narrow ends.  This increases the stiffness of the frame by a surprisingly (to me, anyway) large amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 4:&lt;/strong&gt; Nail a horizontal 2x2 at floor level to connect each of the legs for stiffness in the long dimension.  Originally I used 2x4s here, but they interfered with a couple of my very long wheelbase bikes.  The 2x2s provide just enough clearance for these bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YHPeA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 5:&lt;/strong&gt; Attach the hooks to the bottom of one horizontal beam.  I put the first one 5 inches away from the end, and then spaced them 10 inches apart.  This was wide enough for me to hang my bikes without bumping, as long as I alternated one with the front wheel up and the next with the front wheel down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 6:&lt;/strong&gt; Attach the hooks to the bottom of the other horizontal beam.  Place these hooks so the bikes on this side hang between the bikes hanging on the other beam.  For me, the first hook went 10 inches away from the end, with the remainder spaced 10 inches apart.  A 7/32&quot; drill bit makes the right sized hole for the hooks to go in snugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 7:&lt;/strong&gt; Add the planks to the top.  I just laid them on top, where by accident they fit snugly between the two 2x4s that are nailed across the top beams.  If the planks move around when I'm getting boxes down from there, I'll glue them in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I used lumber on hand, the cost of materials was about $12 (mostly for the hooks).  Then I spent $18 more for some spray to treat the termite-infested end of the fencepost; if I did it over again I'd probably ask my neighbors to see if any of them had an old fencepost that was pest-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and though I forgot to mention it earlier, you should wear safety glasses before pounding on things and maybe a dust mask or respirator if you're going to drill pressure-treated lumber or spray bug killer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6686" LastEditorUserId="6686" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T04:31:03.360" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T04:31:03.360" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-04-22T21:30:52.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15417" CreationDate="2013-04-21T10:06:32.117" Score="2" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reasons I won't bore you with I have been confined to the garage for my training for the last six-seven months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using my road bike on a Cycleops magnetto classic (see: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/cycleops-classic-magneto-turbo-trainer-with-dvd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I was wondering is if anyone had a feel for like for like gear resistivness compared to the road and air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. in the same gear this trainer is like riding on flat, 2% uphill, 1% downhill etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know its a pretty theoretical topic, I am just training for a centuary and will only have a few months road time before hand so trying to guage where I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6687" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T14:41:41.020" Title="Turbo trainer compared to road / air resistence - Magneto Classic" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;&lt;century&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15402" CreationDate="2013-04-21T11:06:18.583" Score="23" ViewCount="84233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy my first proper road bike, and I have been comparing entry-level carbon frames with top-level aluminum frames in the same series (Giant Defy). What are the benefits of carbon vs. aluminum frames? Is it better to get an aluminum bike with higher-end components or a similarly priced carbon bike with lower-end components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-04-22T16:11:13.950" LastActivityDate="2020-05-10T01:52:52.073" Title="Is it better to get an entry-level carbon bike or a similarly priced aluminum bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15388" CreationDate="2013-04-21T12:11:14.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of different views on how to train, but you've got plenty of time, so there's no need to find the &quot;optimal&quot; scheme -- you just want what works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would encourage you to get out on the road as soon as you can (dunno what your weather issues might be).  A trainer does not have enough of a varying load/pace (even if it's programmable) to really challenge your muscles, plus it's incredibly boring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you need to build up your time/distance -- not all at once, but by September you should be doing moderately paced 4-hour rides maybe every two weeks.  You don't need to train for the full 120km, but should be able to do maybe 80km without incredible discomfort.  On &quot;race&quot; day you can let adrenaline carry you the last 40km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T12:11:14.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14520" CreationDate="2013-04-21T14:52:55.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a lot of tinkering and research I found the derailleur was in the need of &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;indexing adjustment&lt;/a&gt;. Just twisted the barrel adjuster anticlockwise a little and the gears are shifting promptly now. The above link advises that indexing adjustment is the most frequently required adjustment for rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3925" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T14:52:55.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2013-04-21T20:28:28.373" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially this is about low end carbon versus high end alloy. Carbon is typically lighter and less harsh (more vibration absorption) than alloy, but is not as robust. I doubt that the alloy is much heavier. I think it will come down to the difference in component quality and your budget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally for a training bike I would probably go for the alloy, but that is driven by my financial situation. If the bikes are of similar price and the components are of the same quality, I would consider the carbon.  However I would not trade component quality for a carbon frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : Seven years after the answer was give. &#xA;Many of the tecniques learn laying up carboon, and with advances in hydroforming alloy, have lead to allow alloy frames that are significantly cheaper to fabricate yet nearly as light (if not lighter) than low ebd carbon frames, while having teh characteristics of stiffness and complance where wanted. You can no longer discuss 'Carbon' and 'Non-Carbon' frames as most major manufacturers have 2, 3 or more variations of carbon from 'cheap and cheerful' to 'insanely light and expensive'. The cost saving in Alloy frames put into better compenets leads to a better bike for the same build cost. As carbon is consdidered more desireable by many, it fetches a higher price for the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TD;DNR when buying a bike, look at the whole bike, not just the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2020-05-10T01:52:52.073" LastActivityDate="2020-05-10T01:52:52.073" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15406" CreationDate="2013-04-21T20:30:27.343" Score="5" ViewCount="7458" Body="&lt;p&gt;My flatmate got his tyre stabbed. With a knife, it seems. &lt;em&gt;(The bike was tied to a staircase railing in the building and was obviously in some maniac's way. Though there was plenty of room around. And another bike next to it.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to fix the cut (it's quite big, some 2 centimetres)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some photos: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/sh/oulsuugvjaihta2/a3tiZm2BEp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/sh/oulsuugvjaihta2/a3tiZm2BEp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4035" LastEditorUserId="4035" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T00:54:55.817" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T00:54:55.817" Title="Can outer tyre (casing) punctures/cuts be fixed?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15403" CreationDate="2013-04-21T20:43:14.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. It's best to throw out the damaged tire and replace it. Any attempt at patching the tire would leave a major weakness at such a major cut. A blowout would present a safety risk, so it's best to just get a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-04-21T20:55:59.800" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T20:55:59.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15384" CreationDate="2013-04-21T21:26:59.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many styles of bicycle racks available. If you are concerned with space they use, you could check &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepark.auto-mart.hr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vertical bike rack&lt;/a&gt; which can provide high density of parked bicycles in small space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T21:26:59.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15403" CreationDate="2013-04-21T21:30:59.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can &quot;boot&quot; the tire.  This involves placing a piece of relatively stiff material inside the tire to cover the hole.  For smaller holes a piece of US currency (which is printed on quite durable paper) is often folded several times and inserted, but 1cm is about the limit for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy a commercial &quot;boot&quot; that is a piece of plastic or stiff rubber designed for this duty, but they're a bit expensive and really only intended for cyclists to carry for emergency repairs on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get your hands on a scrap bicycle tire you can cut a boot from that.  Generally you'd cut the piece from the sidewall, not the tread area (because the sidewall is thinner), and for a 2cm cut in a tire you'd make the boot at least 6x6 cm, and ideally as large as you can manage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You insert the boot in the tire, maybe with a spot of tire patch glue to keep it from shifting (but make sure the glue doesn't ooze into contact with the tube and glue it in place), insert the tube, mount, and inflate.  Partially inflate first and check that the boot appears to be centered over the cut and not bulging, and that the tire is properly seated on the rim, then, when you're confident, fully inflate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use a boot like this there will always be a &quot;lump&quot; in the tire.  And the repair is nowhere near as reliable as a &quot;sound&quot; tire.  But, properly done, this can be quite serviceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T21:30:59.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15134" CreationDate="2013-04-21T21:43:00.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a cycle tour this Spring from Dieppe to Paris and want to use a GPS to navigate. I wasn't sure whether to use my iPhone or my Garmin eTrex 20. The eTrex 20 is a mid-range unit with a colour screen and you can transfer maps to it through a microSD card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end the eTrex 20 won out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compared to an iPhone it is extremely rugged. My iPhone would never have survived the fall my eTrex suffered when it wasn't fully seated in its mount. The eTrex now has a minor chip on the plastic casing and that's it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the eTrex is waterproof which is ideal when you are caught in a shower and want to spend as little time as possible navigating. You can get waterproof iPhone cases but you would need a lot of trust to use it in a downpour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've never had that much joy with offline maps on an iPhone as occasionally tiles do not download and I only notice when I'm lost in the middle of a city with only a load of grey squares for help. Much better to have the full maps on your device (e.g. OpenStreetMap/OpenVeloMap or pay for the CityNavigator maps).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The battery life of the eTrex 20 is amazing: you can get 24+ hours from 2AA batteries. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's easy to download POIs to your device to include restaurants, shops, hotels etc which you may find useful on tour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A separate device for navigation is good as if the iPhone battery dies when you are lost you can't call for help!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One major negative is that the eTrex is &lt;em&gt;slow&lt;/em&gt;. Map redraws take a few seconds and it's not always intuitive to use. Also the BaseCamp software is not great and it's not straightforward to set up the device for navigation, but after a few trial runs I've got used to the quirks (mostly by avoiding using BaseCamp as much I can!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6689" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T21:43:00.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5050" CreationDate="2013-04-21T22:17:59.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first began to bunch ride with the boys we would have a sprint here and there.  I would hold the handlebars firmly so that the bike was as stable as possible.  One of the guys pointed out that this actually takes effort on my part and wastes energy.  Also the wobbling is designed to occur such that the downstroke on the pedal occurs when that pedal is directly under the rider and hence delivers the maximum power to the stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6690" LastActivityDate="2013-04-21T22:17:59.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15419" CreationDate="2013-04-22T03:12:55.393" Score="8" ViewCount="2950" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a Raleigh Venture comfort bike as a gift a few months ago, and took to riding very well. I am overweight, but dropping quickly. I started at 275 and sit around 250 now after two months of regular riding and a changed diet. I'm quite certain I've outgrown this bike. I struggle to maintain a good speed, usually managing just 11 or 12 mph, and the bike dealer I've been talking to says upgrading will be a tremendous difference, between better tires, lighter frame and a lower riding position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed is frustrating, as this past weekend I took a 30 mile trip, which took over 2 1/2 hours. I stick to the roads, and in S. Florida they are in pretty good shape. So it would appear to me that a road bike is the way to go, but I'm still overweight, and not overly young anymore (37), so I worry maybe my back will hurt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a frame of reference, a dealer recommended the Trek FX series as being a little lower than a normal hybrid bike, and I'm looking specifically at the 7.3 FX. With my budget, if I went road bike, it'd half to be the 1.1 from Trek. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question is road versus hybrid, but I'm also certainly open to manufacturer suggestions. I am very new, and not about to customize anything, so it has to be a bike that I can buy, not a bike I buy and then change a bunch of stuff. That's not me (yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6696" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T21:40:33.637" Title="Hybrid or Road Bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15455" CreationDate="2013-04-22T03:39:48.713" Score="11" ViewCount="20910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found an old Favorit racing bike. I didn't weigh it without all the parts but I find it pretty light, and it has a nice classic look. It is however really rusty (superficial damage only). Right now it's been rebuilt, and except for the very old and damaged crankset (which I'm going to change), it rides fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: is it  worth it to repaint the bike and slowly rebuild it with higher quality parts? I'm not looking for the lightest bike, just a strong, comfortable and durable bike. Also, I like the fact that the bike would be unique and customized. Would I be better off buying a bike, or getting a better quality steel frame? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6698" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-04-22T12:30:48.503" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T18:24:45.753" Title="Is it worth time to rebuild an old steel frame?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15413" CreationDate="2013-04-22T04:14:45.233" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buying parts alone is sadly a rather expensive way to get a bike and I doubt anyone would be able to tell you if it's worth it to &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;. That said, I'd be very tempted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like old bikes and it's better they get rebuilt and used than end up in landfill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should spec up the components you want/need and compare the price with a new one of similar quality and see which you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T04:14:45.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-22T04:46:27.783" Score="1" ViewCount="1314" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going downhill on my road bike with aero bars without applying brakes results in a terrible screeching coming from what seems to be the front wheel. Are the bearings going out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6699" LastEditorUserId="634" LastEditDate="2013-04-22T12:27:35.330" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T12:27:35.330" Title="What could cause a screeching noise when going downhill without brakes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15415" CreationDate="2013-04-22T05:01:26.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be one of a number of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hub&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you grab the wheel and shake it from left to right is there noticeable play? If you hold it by the axle and spin it does it feel gravely or gritty? Does it make any noise when you do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Brakes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the brakes dragging on the rims? Is the rim buckled enough for the brakes to drag for only part of it? Is it worse in the wet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Wind&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the wind in your ears, helmet or frame. Unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;You&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you going too fast ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T05:01:26.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15394" CreationDate="2013-04-22T05:30:02.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleops.cz/files/trainers.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This Cycleops document&lt;/a&gt; appears to show the speed-power curve for the Magneto trainer. A few comments: first, the actual power demanded will depend on the pressure between the tire and roller, so you will want to make sure that is consistent between trainer sessions. Second, note that the power increases roughly linearly with speed, so if you double your speed the power also doubles. This is typical for magnetic trainers, and you may want to know that in the real world on real roads, power increases roughly with the cube of speed, so if you double your speed, the power increases by a factor of eight. Lastly, there are online &quot;trainer&quot; services (including www.trainerroad.com) which claim to have calibrated a wide range of trainers to estimate the speed-power relationship. I have no first-hand knowledge of these services, but typically one installs an ANT+ speed sensor on the rear wheel of the bike, mount the bike onto one of the listed trainers, insert an ANT+ dongle into a nearby computer, and connect to the online service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2013-04-22T14:41:41.020" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T14:41:41.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15413" CreationDate="2013-04-22T10:56:22.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Alex suggests, it's cheaper to just buy a new (or &quot;lightly used&quot;) bike than to buy all new parts for an old bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the practicality (cost aside), the main question is what parts will fit.  If the bike is designed for caliper brakes or has odd threading on the BB or some such then it will be frustrating trying to find new parts and your choices will be exceedingly limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is partly why the big bike parts makers like to change schemes regularly -- to obsolete old bikes and force you to buy new.  Lots of the supposed &quot;improvements&quot; aren't.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T10:56:22.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15411" CreationDate="2013-04-22T12:30:15.390" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, 11 or 12 mph isn't that slow, especially if you're still working on improving your fitness. Try measuring speed in kph instead of mph, as it feels better. You can laugh, but we all do it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing you should look for in a new bike, IMO is that it fits you. This will improve your comfort. If you're comfortable you'll be able to go faster. Drop handlebars will help with aerodynamics, but probably still less than wearing a less baggy jacket. The weight of the bike is likely to be negligible compared to the weight you've already lost, so don't blow the bank for the sake of a few pounds/grams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a road bike fits you properly and doesn't have the handlebars too low compared to the saddle, you ought to be able to get comfortable. That said you can still go pretty fast on a hybrid. Some of my personal records are set on my hybrid rather than my road bike, just because I happened to feel fitter the day I took the hybrid out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So get a bike that fits and is comfortable. Obviously that means trying them out and making notes. If you are really serious you can go for an independent bike sizing/fitting or follow an &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3730/bike-size-to-human-size-conversion-chart&quot;&gt;online measurement guide&lt;/a&gt; rather than relying on the guy in the shop who will want to sell the bike in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're comfortable on your bike you'll enjoy riding and ride more often. This will make you faster. Have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T21:40:33.637" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15427" CreationDate="2013-04-22T13:45:57.373" Score="11" ViewCount="28296" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extended battery life is very neccesary for using the device on long brevets and multi-day endurance racing.  Can Garmin Edge cycling GPS units 500/510 and 800/810 be charged while riding via external battery pack like or USB dynamo charger? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you plug in while riding?  Are only certain devices able to charge the unit while it's recording / navigating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2021-03-26T02:10:24.897" Title="Can Garmin Edge 500/510 and 800/810 be charged while riding?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;maps&gt;&lt;navigation&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2013-04-22T15:47:01.910" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were you I would satisfy myself as to the quality of the carbon frame of the bike you're considering, and provided it looks decent, to go down the carbon route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is just upgradeability. It is conceivable that as you become better and stronger on your first road bike, sooner or later you may find yourself asking the question &quot;how can I make my bike faster?&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for most of us the answer to this is to lose 10% in weight and 10% in body fat, but that's a different story ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when you start to think about upgrading parts, you've got your groupset, wheels etc. These things you can generally upgrade at your own pace, and as your budget allows. And they would apply to any bike, carbon or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if you have a non-carbon-framed bike, however, one of the big things to think about as regards an upgrade is the frame itself, i.e. basically buying yourself a new bike. And, of course, this will be pretty expensive and not really something you can do piecemeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary I would probably go for as good a frame as I could afford, and initially sacrifice things like groupset, just on the grounds that I can upgrade this kind of thing later as and when funds allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally I have a Giant TCR Advanced and think it is superb. I have no experience of the Defy but if the workmanship is like the TCR I doubt you'd be disappointed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing, since you say you're based in London and especially if cost is an issue....you could do a lot worse than looking at the Chris Boardman range out of Halfords. Just look at the awards these bikes win, you really do get a lot of bang for your buck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-04-22T18:13:08.660" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T18:13:08.660" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15375" CreationDate="2013-04-22T16:31:52.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The large chainring in the picture looks very worn out. Usually by the time teeth on a ring are &quot;shark-toothed&quot;- or very pointed- the chainring is completely shot. However, it's likely that unless you've been replacing your chain regularly that all the other drivetrain components (chain and cassette) have been worn beyond use as well.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You should get a chain gauge and a cassette gauge to check this, or go by your local bike shop as they should have both tools. Chain gauges are very reliable tools for measuring wear. Cassette/sprocket wear gauge measurements are usually to be taken with a grain of salt. If your chain is completely hosed you can bank on needing a new cassette as well. If it's worn out without being beyond expected tolerances for a worn chain, you might try replacing your big chainring and your chain and see if you get any skipping in the back. If you don't, good for you and enjoy your ride. If you do then replace the cassette as well.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Next time, before your chainring gets as worn out as it is, you can check chainring wear by visually inspecting &quot;chain lift&quot; off of the chainrings. This is especially useful when changing to a new chain on used chainrings. Chain lift is the amount the chain rises out of the dips in the chainring under torque. Hold your back brake, and while off the bike step on one pedal at a 3 oclock position. Look to see if the chain appears to be coming off the chainring. This will be a useful trick if you want to try to save your small chainring, which doesn't appear to be as worn out as your big one.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the future, check your chain's wear monthly if your ride occasionally or weekly if your ride nonstop. Changing your chain when it needs it will increase the longevity of the other components that come in direct contact with the chain- most importantly your chainrings and cassette sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T16:31:52.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15425" CreationDate="2013-04-22T18:19:31.980" Score="4" ViewCount="3363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/15403/2513&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question today. The tire in question has a 2cm long hole on the inside, from a knife. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes get puncture flats from e.g. glass. Never as big as 2cm. Usually if they're less than 1/2cm, I just keep using the tire. Is this at all dangerous? At what size does a hole in the tire become dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T18:54:09.920" Title="What is the largest hole a tire can bear before replacement?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15424" CreationDate="2013-04-22T18:41:30.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's probably not a hard and fast rule as to how big is too big. It's going to vary based on tire width, pressure, the thickness of the tube, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone mentioned in the comments on that other question, damage to the threads is the biggest concern. If the puncture goes between the threads like a sewing needle would through clothing, there's definitely no problem. If one or two of the threads gets damaged, probably still not a problem. At what point it's too many threads to be any good anymore though is pretty much a judgment call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that you can be sure of: If you put the tube in and fill it up, and you can see the tube from the outside of the tire; the hole is too big and probably needs a boot to get you home. And if it's that big, you need to replace the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T18:41:30.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15424" CreationDate="2013-04-22T18:54:09.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, if the hole is bigger than a &quot;puncture&quot; then you'll have trouble with the tube wanting to peek through.  This depends to a degree on the thickness of the tube -- lightweight tubes will obviously be worse in this regard than heavier, thicker tubes.  Any time there is such a hole the tire should be &quot;booted&quot;.  I'd have no real problem riding a bike with a 1/2cm hole, well booted, though I'd not leave on a week-long tour that way (which reminds me ... better change that tire!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall seeing a case about 5 years back where the tire had split along the bead for a distance of several inches.  Being as this was on a trail, several miles from the nearest road where the accompanying repair van could come, the bike owner and several of his buddies performed a &quot;repair&quot; using medical adhesive tape wrapped around the tire (but not the rim) -- a very delicate procedure.  This repair was sufficient to make it to the next town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still kick myself that I didn't think to take a picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T18:54:09.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15420" CreationDate="2013-04-22T21:05:01.977" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just verified that the 510 can be attached to power while on/in use. It continues to operate. When the external power source is removed, it will give a message to that effect, but does not power down (like the nuvi/car versions do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you (obviously) have to open the weather seal to plug in power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth noting, the 510 will go into a different mode when you plug it into a computer. Unsure if it will continue to record, but the screen shows the computer attached so suspect not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For long trips like you describe, a device like these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=phone+battery+backup&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=phone+battery+backup&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;should do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T21:05:01.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15411" CreationDate="2013-04-23T08:09:40.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is your main ambition here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it primarily weight loss? If so, then it sounds like you're doing pretty well on your existing bike. (I'm not necessarily saying &quot;don't get a new bike&quot;, I'm more saying &quot;don't get one until you're sure of what you want&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or building up the stamina to be able to ride all day? Again, your current bike will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or are you looking at riding faster/further? Well, maybe you've got an argument in that case for getting a new bike. But again, the type of bike to buy should probably be driven by the type of riding you intend doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you ride on roads, so possibly at face value a road bike would suit. But on the other hand, a hybrid would open up more terrains to you, if that would appeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the length of your rides? Can you ever see yourself going on multi-day tours? If not, then again a road bike may suit, but if so maybe you should consider a bike that could more easily carry luggage? I don't necessarily mean a hybrid here, check out touring bikes perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards comfort, a lot of bike manufacturers (not sure about Trek) make two flavours of road bike, in terms of the geometry of the frames. The first flavour will be your out-and-out racer. These bikes will be built for performance over comfort. The second flavour places more emphasis on being able to ride all day, the geometry is a little more relaxed and the ride a little more comfortable. It may be worth researching this aspect. But most definitely there are choices even within the &quot;road bike&quot; genre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly a word of encouragement to keep going. I was in roughly your situation a few years ago, and got back into cycling to lose weight. Totally love it and my biggest regret is that I ever stopped cycling (in my late teens) in the first place. (When I got to the point you're at now, btw, for me it was a no-brainer - I wanted tarmac and speed and went down the road bike route - and in fact just last weekend I did my first century ride.) But there's no better feeling than watching yourself go down the clothes sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you've got 8 years advantage over me. Well done and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T08:18:45.143" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T08:18:45.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15435" CreationDate="2013-04-23T15:32:56.343" Score="9" ViewCount="3712" Body="&lt;p&gt;Truing a wheel and lacing spokes is a big deal, requires a truing stand and everything. I know some do it without tool just with the spoke wrench and the naked eye, but feels like a big deal to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When one breaks a spoke, I believe it is safe to say the wheel is out of true within a few meters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question therefore is: is it worth it carrying spare spokes when touring longer distances (200+ km)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T16:50:20.407" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T17:55:40.950" Title="Worth it carrying spare spokes?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15433" CreationDate="2013-04-23T16:11:21.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty easy/light to carry around a couple extra spokes per wheel and a pretty good idea for a long tour.  You'll probably need a few different lengths though for the front, rear left, and rear right sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good option is to carry an emergency fiberfix spoke that can be used with most wheels, which will help in an emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001GSMQZC&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Emergency-Spoke-Replacement-Kit/dp/B001GSMQZC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to work on your skills with truing a wheel without a stand as well. You can use a couple zip ties on your seat stays in place of a truing stand. Just make sure you are comfortable with this process before you go on the road, and don't forget your spoke wrench.  You may need a cassette tool / chain whip as well if you need to replace a spoke on that side of the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T16:11:21.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15433" CreationDate="2013-04-23T16:11:49.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Truing a wheel and lacing spokes is a big deal, but even a novice like me can replace a spoke and get it good enough to ride if a single spoke breaks. Unless you have a really low spoke count (which seems unlikely on a tour), breaking a single spoke shouldn't make the wheel unrideable and replacing the spoke can improve things and prevent them from getting worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spokes are light and can be slipped down the edge of a bag or taped to a tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things are made a little more complicated if the broken spoke is next to your disc or cassette. If so you may not have space to lace the new one in. In that case you'll need the tools and expertise to remove the disc or cassette too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard you can often get away without a spoke or two if you adjust the adjacent ones (loosen on opposite side to broken one, tighten on same side). This isn't a long-term solution, but may be good enough to get you home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T07:48:42.177" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T07:48:42.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15316" CreationDate="2013-04-23T16:21:45.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to look into vinyl dye. It can be used for things that have to flex and won't chip off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6573" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T16:21:45.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15446" CreationDate="2013-04-23T18:06:15.190" Score="4" ViewCount="1253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an aluminum seat post in a steel frame. The post was really hard to extract and I don't want this thing corroding on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've discussed how to take care of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2325/how-do-i-remove-rust-from-my-seat-tube&quot;&gt;rust on a steel frame&lt;/a&gt; and on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2350/should-i-oil-my-seat-post&quot;&gt;use of grease&lt;/a&gt; to prevent corrosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, my seat post seems to be corroded (lightly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7vQ80.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on getting that off? Sandpaper/wire brush it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T23:18:42.370" Title="Seatpost maintenance : removing rust" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15437" CreationDate="2013-04-23T20:15:38.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandpaper and/or a wire brush would probably be ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would work better would be a bench grinder with a buffing wheel and some buffing compound. That'd get it shiny and new looking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to that, you could probably do a decent job with a Dremel but it would take &lt;em&gt;forever&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T20:15:38.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15448" CreationDate="2013-04-23T20:36:40.693" Score="3" ViewCount="1369" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Jamis Allegro Sport Hybrid (6 months old) and has gone about 400 miles so far. Today I had an accident (in the UK) because the rear tyre got punctured after hitting a good size pothole. I took it to Evans Cycles (UK) and they did a quick repair job to fix the puncture. However, the repairman pointed out that the brake pads are burning the edge of my tyres and this is very strange to me. Is there any way I can use special brake pads so that I don't have this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I use Shimano DuraAce 7700 style brake pads which are apparently very cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've linked to some images:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://5fb9395f-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/manmedia/index/tr2.jpg?attachauth=ANoY7crnsLJCUS36QJK3CUW_ibmcn9mxfPH8QP-w2Ctd7WszVrSSqxkSnp2TwXjBCwLR5MOvE65kcAMjV2bJiBchBka446Zq0AZ6ss9WJ637ZRicpCabi18HsQBom6G4jArxSxnF1t2UEHRADT0QsRgD_fo6D0ZFNv8L3Q-twnb3rA7G0krwKM-2XdE4Bu01i5EtRBd8Vj1AmzCKdh56r-lpQT5IoAPphQ%3D%3D&amp;amp;attredirects=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image1&lt;/a&gt;, &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://5fb9395f-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/manmedia/index/tr3.jpg?attachauth=ANoY7cr0Hji1_WL12ZJwbRPgF4XHusQTB_2r7f9RC8V6Jp47XF2Qay9-cUzZJRTFOwQZM96tIKVncqCBYQfhDv0BfE3ar0Zx257lgxbkAGQfDbRHvjEWHO7KMOt1QvJuyh6iaDGDb-uvmsUQ26GCrjMolmS59MyfccL8dQ-tHUozItNaSAK2Eo7SzxexLUnS9OanbmkH6mp5Z4y33eO1wma5s6LfM7PQ9A%3D%3D&amp;amp;attredirects=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Image2-tyre_worn_out&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;From the comments and answers, this seems like the most relevant picture:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vo3MR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T13:48:08.647" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T13:48:08.647" Title="Brakepads are burning tyres out" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15443" CreationDate="2013-04-23T21:49:44.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're brake pads are burning through your tires, they're either misaligned or the wrong ones for your bike. Or possibly both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; those are the right pads for that bike (which would make sense on a six month old bike), but you'd probably want to have a shop look at them to verify. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shop you took it to told you that you need &quot;special&quot; pads, take it to a different shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T21:49:44.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15437" CreationDate="2013-04-23T23:18:42.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sandpaper is overkill unless it's a very fine grit.  A wire brush would work but it's cumbersome to use on a round shape like that.  Steel wool is perfect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T23:18:42.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15339" CreationDate="2013-04-23T23:19:51.010" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that such an extreme position indicates a fit problem with the bike.  Maybe that's what you should attack first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T23:19:51.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15443" CreationDate="2013-04-24T01:05:45.470" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get your toolbox, get the 5mm Allen key and align the pads yourself. Make sure they are parallel to the rim and don't touch your tyre when in braking position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 minute job. Saves you tyres and pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update re pictures:&lt;/strong&gt; Thanks for posting the photos - makes it easier to identify the problem. It seems that your pads are not rubbing the tyres. The problem looks like it's in the pads themselves. These pads are the cheapest possible ones. And they are glazed up. I would just replace them for better ones. Or you can take the wheels off, get some sand paper and sand top layer off the pads. This will work, but it is likely that the pads will do the same again pretty soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason for this appearance - the brake arms are not correctly set up and one of the pads is dragging on the rim all the time, hence &quot;burning sensation&quot;. This can be corrected by adjusting the spring: on the side of the brake arm should be a bolt - play with it, until the arms are coming to the rim at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Or&lt;/strong&gt; if the brakes stop you well enough and don't drag on tyres/rims, just ignore them and keep riding - not a major problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T11:50:28.697" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T11:50:28.697" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15377" CreationDate="2013-04-24T01:27:19.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the last 5 years I've been too lazy to change spd shoes to normal shoes. So I picked my SPD shoes to be a bit more comfortable for walking. Usual scenario for me - commute to destination. Walk there most of the day. Commute back. When I was in Uni, I have done a lot of waking on campus in SPD shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Usually SPD shoes are getting destroyed from walking on hard surfaces within a 18 months. (My MTB spd shoes already counting 4 years - I don't walk in them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If cleats are well hidden so they don't clack - they are usually hard to clip in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soft metal cleats (Crank Brothers) wear out really quick - three months and you need to replace them. Shimano cleats are steel and last a year of walking in them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By the end of the day you want to throw away the shoes, as they are not very good for your feet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forget about running. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given all the above, plus possibility to keep normal shoes in the office, I cycle to work and change shoes there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T01:27:19.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15411" CreationDate="2013-04-24T08:23:38.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess cyclocross is the best bet - Actually totally depeds on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) What you are trying to do (e.g. ride 2 work, or adventurous riding)&#xA;2) Where you are going to do it (e.g. rough terrain, roads with lots of potholes, fine US-rocky road type of thing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at Paris Roubaix on Google. You can get away with those bikes anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T08:23:38.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2013-04-24T10:26:55.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 67 years and live in Norway. As an active athlete I feel that the discussion on gearing is too concentrated on max. performance. I'm going to a triple because the majority . in time, of training is at low intensity. The problem is not how to go fast enough but how to maintain a low enough intensity AT ALL TIMES so as not to over train on the hills. Over training is very common on long tours. 118-120 on the flat , 140 - ? uphill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6716" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T10:26:55.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15413" CreationDate="2013-04-24T11:12:13.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would undoubtedly end up with a &quot;better bike&quot; if you bought something new off the rack. I'm excluding BSOs because —by that very definition— they aren't bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That might be a controversial viewpoint but it shouldn't be. There are a few basic reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frame technology is objectively better now. Better materials and better designs. Even if &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; don't like soft carbon or hard 6061/7005 alloys, there are well-engineered solutions for everybody. In short, there is choice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Restoring a frame can take serious time and equipment. If you aren't kitted out for metalwork and painting, you're going to spend a lot of money on this. If you aren't competent or you don't enjoy doing it, that's more expense.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Restoring &lt;em&gt;components&lt;/em&gt; can be even harder. If you need to replace like-for-like springs and gears, you're in territory where things can get very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're replacing components, consider that bike assemblers get their parts at &lt;em&gt;extreme&lt;/em&gt; discount. A discount you probably won't be able to achieve without buying older second-hand parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unless you can find a discount group- and wheel-set, a last-season stock-clearance bike will be the cheapest new-parts option. And that comes with a frame.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can boil that down to say: &lt;strong&gt;The monetary difference between buying a good bike and restoring an old one with new parts is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; slim.&lt;/strong&gt; If you consider the objective quality of the frames, components and your time, it can be even harder to justify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side of the coin, you have already identified value in the project. There is sentimental value, there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; personal value in having something that is truly yours. This may also be an enjoyable hobby for a few months. That stuff means something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as soon as any of the {wheel,chain,group}-set need replacing, the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;monetary&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; balance tips the other way. And the objective base quality of a 70s-80s steel frame is always going to be in question when you can compare it to a ~2015 frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, the only person who can answer this question is you. It all depends on how much value you derive from the process and outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5942" LastEditorUserId="5942" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T09:35:20.447" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T09:35:20.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15433" CreationDate="2013-04-24T11:15:08.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the tour length. It seems worthless to me to take them for three hours of riding in local park/forest (as pretty much anything beside multitool, purse and hydropack), but good idea for whole day length trip trough the desert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T11:15:08.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15413" CreationDate="2013-04-24T12:10:03.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to treat this like a hobby. I took an old bike from a wasteyard one year ago to see if I can make it being able to ride it again. I repaired a lot, replaced parts and tuned it. From an objective view, it is not worth it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will cost more in the end than buying a new or used bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will have to spend lot of time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't be surprised if anything is broken again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you really need to enjoy the process, otherwise it is just annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T12:10:03.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15479" CreationDate="2013-04-24T13:04:45.757" Score="6" ViewCount="11610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the same bike for commuting, fast lunch-time rides, and not-very-fast weekend touring. I recently switched from flat pedals to clipless (Shimano PD-M520) but am finding them impractical on my commute - too much clipping in and out, for no obvious gain. I figure a good compromise would be pedals that are part-clipless, part-flat, but all the options I have come across so far (such as the Shimano M324) seem to be flat strictly on the one side and SPD strictly on the other, meaning I'll have to flip the pedal over even when wearing ordinary shoes. Is there a pedal that can be used as a flat pedal on &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; sides, and as an SPD ideally on both sides too but otherwise on just the one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6717" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T01:22:33.890" Title="Are there pedals that are both flat and cleated on each side?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15462" CreationDate="2013-04-24T13:07:49.330" Score="2" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm commuting to work almost every day. The roads on my way are quite thin so I have ride on the edge of it. But there is usually some &lt;strong&gt;gravel&lt;/strong&gt; and it's quite hard to ride on that especially when riding up the hill. I don't like riding on the gravel but I don't like blocking cars behind me. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other thing is riding through the &lt;strong&gt;traffic lights&lt;/strong&gt;. While waiting for green sign I'm not sure if I should be in row with cars or just wait on the right side of the road so I don't take much space. I don't like taking a lot of space as cyclist but also I don't want to be in danger if some driver doesn't notice me when I'm on side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips that will make me feel better riding on these roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6718" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T16:11:58.500" Title="How to avoid riding on a gravel on the road sides? + Riding through traffic lights" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;gravel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-24T13:42:30.773" Score="3" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so let's start this out by saying I have not a ton of money to work with, and really want to get my bike up and working with little cost as possible.  I have friends that have changed out parts on their bikes and have given me some parts to use on my bike that are almost brand new.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was given a SRAM X9 3x9 front derailluer and a Shimano SXL FC-M660 10x3 10-speed Crankset for free and I want to use them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike currently has Shimano 8 speed rear derailluer and cassette. I have Shimano shifters also on the bike.  They both work great and don't want to have to change those out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, can I use the 8 speed rear parts with the 9 speed SRAM front derailluer and 10 speed shimano Crankset?  And use the shimano shifters?  What would be the major problems?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to just have to buy a chain and use all these parts, and wondering what kind of chain should I use with these three speeds?  8,9 or 10 speed chain?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is dumping a bunch of parts together, but beggers can't be chooser and I would really like to get this to work so I can ride.  My crank and front derailluer are junk and need to be replaced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6719" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T21:26:33.107" Title="SRAM x9 3x9 with a 10 speed Shimano SXL FC-M660 Crankset" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-24T14:10:38.610" Score="-2" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently picked up a 'beach cruiser' frame from a local free-add site. It was claimed to be a Huffy, however I can't seem to verify this (I've emailed Huffy and I'm awaiting their response, and in case it's not a Huffy I've posted here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame Number is GH98142-- (Dashes represent last two escaped numbers), it looks like this: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/EYvC1Hy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;this&quot;&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3559" LastEditorUserId="10493" LastEditDate="2014-06-18T12:44:08.813" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T03:15:06.863" Title="Can anyone identify this frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-06-13T12:56:14.230" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15459" CreationDate="2013-04-24T14:46:17.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your local regulations, claiming the lane might be illegal (it is here where I live, for example). So, my advice would it be to ride on the right side of the road (assuming that right is the driving side), but not getting too close to the curb because of the debris, gravel, car doors etc. When you see (and hear) someone behind you wanting to overtake you, just move some to the right (and optionally give him a sign with your hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, don't go to the right if you see that they can't overtake you safely, i.e. if the road is too narrow there, or if you see a car coming from the other direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the traffic light, claim the lane! That will prevent drivers cutting you from behind, while it doesn't bother no one (you occupy less space than a car, and they are not waiting for you, but for the light anyways). When the light opens, and you pass the intersection, return to the right part of the lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T14:46:17.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15458" CreationDate="2013-04-24T15:19:55.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a pair of Shimano &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/pedals/mountain/product.-code-PD-M545.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PD-M545&lt;/a&gt;s. They were OK, but not very comfy in flip flops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/pedals/mountain/product.-code-PD-M424.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PD-M424&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/pedals/mountain/product.-code-PD-M647.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PD-M647&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T15:19:55.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15466" CreationDate="2013-04-24T16:49:11.600" Score="4" ViewCount="9082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have manual Avid disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took my front wheel off like I've done hundreds of times. When I put it back on the wheel is aligned properly with my fork, but the disc presses against one of the brake pads. This causes a lot of squeaking when I simply roll the bike and a ton of friction that will eventually destroy the brake altogether. This really isn't making sense to me other than the possibility that the caliper just isn't aligned properly, which seems practically impossible because all you do is screw it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried adjusting the sensitivity of the brakes to the point where the problem pad is off of the disc. Then the other pad is so far out that I have 0 braking power when I try to apply it (other than a little friction from the problem pad). Can anyone please help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6722" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T19:51:17.733" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T18:25:50.043" Title="How do I align my front brake disk with the caliper?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15458" CreationDate="2013-04-24T18:29:44.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Shimano M324 pedals on my commuter so I can clip in or ride without special shoes.  It works great on 4 different pairs of shoes with SPD cleats.  One side has a cleat, the other side is flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lho7c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Product Link:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001AT33CW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M324-Clipless-Clip-Pedals/dp/B001AT33CW/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer the 2 separate sides vs dual sided for the reason that dual sided pedals tend to be uncomfortable on longer distances due to the cleat mechanism being present when riding with non-clipless shoes. This model also doesn't seem to have the issue of the cleat mechanism being too recessed and causing trouble clipping in with some shoes, since it does not have to accommodate both types of footwear on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T14:42:09.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15464" CreationDate="2013-04-24T19:30:35.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not that unusual for a front brake to move a bit when taking it off and reattaching it. This is due to the small amount of space between the fork ends, axle, and QR bolts. The fork flexes a bit when you put the wheel back on. That small space that it moves is a lot relative to the clearance that disc brake pads have. That's likely why your brake pads aren't lining up again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the fix (NB: the following assumes that by &quot;manual Avid disc brakes,&quot; what you mean is &quot;mechanical disc brakes.&quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're overlooking a couple of points of adjustment. There is a red knob/wheel that adjusts either side of most Avid mechanical disc brakes, one on the inside and one on the outside. There are also caliper positioning bolts (CPS, the &quot;S&quot; is for system) that move the entire caliper perpendicular to and directly above, the bolts that attach the caliper to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic procedure to properly align your brakes is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the bolts perpendicular to the mounting point so that the whole caliper moves easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Completely loosen both of the red pad adjustment discs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the inboard pad adjustment knob until the rotor is centered in the caliper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the outboard pad adjustment knob until the brake is clamped onto the rotor. This ensures that the caliper is centered on the rotor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the CPS bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the pad adjustment discs evenly, one click on one pad, one click on the other until they no longer rub. It may not be perfectly even, one pad may require a bit more loosening than the other. Don't worry about that as long as they don't rub. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the actual owner's manuals for your reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/CcTJ6GxJoYG_RfxiyXhFkqb0BH8G1llWNBnNo8vbogg/mtime:1297962120/sites/default/files/techdocs/95-5015-007-000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avid BB5&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/t7_8bcq0sfKzis-PtSQD2nUtqbY21Oi4W-HoSNa-POs/mtime:1297962121/sites/default/files/techdocs/95-5015-008-000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avid BB7&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-04-30T18:25:50.043" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T18:25:50.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15501" CreationDate="2013-04-24T19:49:13.320" Score="5" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;After nearly a year of commuting by bicycle to and from work 2-3 days per week, I have recently started cycling to work every day, 5 days a week, rain or shine.  My commute is about 11-15 miles each way (depending which route I take), including some steep hills (followed by stop signs, so I don't even get the benefit of coasting down-hill). I obtained a new road bike of decent quality along with reasonable quality clipless shoes, gloves, shorts, a jersey, and a heart rate monitor.  I am not very physically fit (5'9&quot; 200 lbs), but improving.  Now 2 weeks into daily commuting plus occasional weekend riding, I am feeling very sore and fatigued and can barely sustain 80% of the effort I was achieving at the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I eat (and when should I eat it) to help me sustain this effort, yet also help me lose weight and improve my physical fitness?  Is it important to ride at a relatively low effort level, keeping my heart rate in the base zone, or should I occasionally push it into aerobic endurance or even anaerobic zones?  What heart rate(s) should I aim for? What cadence should I try to maintain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice from experienced commuters in a similar position would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T10:36:43.573" Title="What can I do to help me sustain frequent long-ish rides?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15458" CreationDate="2013-04-24T19:50:59.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps not the answer you want, but I vote to persevere with the flip pedals. If you can accustom yourself to the flipping, you'll have a better platform for ordinary shoes and no restrictions on what bike shoes you can use.  I like my Time All-Road Grippers and now I'm properly used to them, I can hop on and ride without thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T19:50:59.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15474" CreationDate="2013-04-24T20:27:28.770" Score="6" ViewCount="1912" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I was riding with my road bike when I suddenly hit a patch of hot asphalt. The day before the one side of the road was already filled with a hard first load, so I didn't think much of riding along there again. Also there was traffic on the other side, so I didn't think about going to the left. After maybe 50 meters I felt that there was a sluggish kind of noise and there was steam rising from the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels looked fine as I checked them after the ride, but may they have suffered some substantial damage (security risk)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="4107" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T20:33:49.823" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T19:44:30.470" Title="Can fresh hot asphalt damage slicks?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15470" CreationDate="2013-04-24T20:55:48.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hot asphalt can be in the neighborhood of 200F, and contains some fairly volatile oils.  It's probably safe to ride a few hundred feet on the stuff, but I'd avoid anything longer, especially with lightweight tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T20:55:48.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15470" CreationDate="2013-04-24T21:03:57.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Racing slicks are delicate depending on your brand/quality, but I wouldn't throw them up against any type of weird surface or material. When in doubt, walk it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T21:03:57.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15467" CreationDate="2013-04-24T21:14:01.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commute is also ~15 miles. Certainly don't worry about that heart monitor (not for commuting at least). Try not to eat any processed flours (including bread!). My breakfast is whole oats soaked in milk with nuts, berries, and whatever else you fancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the ride home it's important to get that same carb boost before you ride home (I eat 300-400 calories worth about 20-30 minutes before I ride). I don't eat during these rides (no need, if you fuel up beforehand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To lose weight you'll need to control what you eat during the day at work and after work once you get home. That's where I personally eat the most. It's easy to down plenty of unchecked calories. You're suppose to be hungry sometimes. Don't eat at the first pang of hunger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T21:14:01.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15470" CreationDate="2013-04-24T21:14:14.727" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think so - I've ridden over 1/4 mile stretches of freshly poured asphalt with no apparent damage to my tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The asphalt is around 300 degrees F when it leaves the plant, but it will have cooled to 200 degrees or less by the time it's open to traffic (water will stand on the surface without boiling, so it's definitely below 212F)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, unless you're stopped, your tire has a very short contact period with the hot road. A typical road bike tire has a circumference of around 80 inches, and at 5mph, it will be rotating at about 1 revolution per second. If your contact patch is 2 inches long, that means each part of the tire is in contact with the hot road for only 2/80 = 25 milliseconds before having almost a second to cool off in the airflow. 25 milliseconds is about 1/10th the duration of a typical blink of the eye. Or, to look at it another way, each part of the tread only spends about 2.5% of the time in contact with the pavement and 97.5% of the time exposed to air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hot asphalt definitely has more &quot;give&quot; than cooled asphalt, so it will feel a bit spongy under your tires, but that's not because your tires are melting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be a little more worried about the fresh oils on the surface of the asphalt, the oil might degrade your tires if in contact for a long time, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; it's super slippery if you hit a wet patch or ride over an iron plate before the oil wears off the tire's surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T21:14:14.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15460" CreationDate="2013-04-24T21:46:17.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main compatibility problems arising between SRAM and Shimano is with the rear derailleurs. The SRAM numbered models (X-7/9/0/X etc) will only work with SRAM rear derailleurs (and v.v). Front derailleurs are compatible (I use SRAM shifters and an XT front derailleur). In terms of the shifters you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference I can think of for the front derailleur would be the width of the cage - 8 speed uses a wider chain than 9 speed. I imagine the difference wouldn't be great enough to cause an issue though. In the worst case scenario you might end up with the chain rubbing the front derailleur slightly in the 'extreme' gears (biggest/smallest cog on the cassette).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankset again suffers from the width issue. The best thing to do is give it a try. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T21:26:33.107" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T21:26:33.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15458" CreationDate="2013-04-24T21:54:06.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a total convert when it comes to clipless pedals now to the extent that riding without my feet clipped in feels unnatural. The clipping in and out will become second nature before long and you won't notice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are wanting to have the option either way though I would definitely recommend the single sided pedals over the caged SPDs (like the m545s mentioned). The cleat is raised in the centre of the cage and is uncomfortable to ride any distance with normal shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T21:54:06.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15499" CreationDate="2013-04-24T22:14:31.623" Score="8" ViewCount="3399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to decide between a single-speed and multiple-speed bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually ride &lt;em&gt;multiple-speed&lt;/em&gt; mountain/city bikes in the highest gear anyway (around town). They're not intended for that, and doing so will wear out those cogs faster than the other unused ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I assume that single-speed parts are designed with this more in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1980/why-ride-a-fixed-gear-bike&quot;&gt;other pros and cons of single-speed bikes&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it better for the long-term to get a single-speed bike; or is there no &lt;em&gt;significant&lt;/em&gt; difference in the longevity of the cogs, chain, and so on?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course it will depend on the quality of the actual parts and how they're used, but let's assume that all parts are from a good, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original equipment manufacturer&lt;/a&gt;, and are used for daily commuting, ~30min.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T01:11:53.583" Title="Are single-speed bikes better equipped to handle cog/chain wear?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15458" CreationDate="2013-04-24T23:10:51.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the most approximate thing, at least on Shimano is the Shimano PD-M424, which is a clipless pedal with a resin cage, or the Shimano PD-M545 which is the same but with an alluminum cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using these on MTB and commuting since year 2000 and I think they would fit your needs. The are easy to Clip In an out, but the cage provides very good support when used with regular shoes. I have commuted with those kind of pedals using Tennis shoes, flip-flops and even Office Shoes (with rubber soles). I have used hiking shoes to MTB with them and with good performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other similar like the Shimano PD-M647.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My father used them too with regular running shoes in light XC riding for years until I convinced him that platforms would be cheaper and more comfortable (He would never use clips).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only care you must take for serious riding is that the shoe must have good sole texture, so it kind of grabs the center of the pedal and has good grip to the cage, because they are less safe than plain platform pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another Solution for you are these platforms that attach to the clipless mechanism, converting your regular clipless pedals into platforms. &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/deckster_clipless_pedal_adapter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/deckster_clipless_pedal_adapter&lt;/a&gt;. You need to buy extra cleats because the platform adapter dos not include it. This kind of solution would be a little cumbersome as you would have to install the platforms for commuting days and remove them for performance riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that a skilled machinist with the right tools can craft a DIY version of these, that has a cleat-like shape incorporated so it has a flatter profile. (I have this project in my bucket list)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally a tip: your complaint about too much clipping/unclipping makes me think that it is (still) kind of difficult for you to do so, but it shouldn't. As you get more practice, clipping in and out becomes so natural that you won't be counting how many times you do it. Second, adjusting the mechanism tension to a lower setting makes it easier to pull out of it. Personally, I use mine in the lowest possible setting but I don't have unexpected  release issues, and I constantly lift the bike by pulling both pedals up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T01:22:33.890" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T01:22:33.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15478" CreationDate="2013-04-25T00:17:19.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have single-speed commute bike. Then switched to 9-speed setup for commuting. I find no significant difference in lifespan of chains and chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious advantage of single-speeder is constant nearly perfect chainline. This means your chain is never bent. But most of the times chains die by getting stretched. And equally good chains will get stretched the same way on a single-speed or multi-gear setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already been noted, I would not take into account chain-wear when choosing between single or multi-speeded bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T00:17:19.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15464" CreationDate="2013-04-25T03:23:05.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first though is the front wheel should go on the same each time - as you have experienced previously. There may be some variation, but there should not be enough to affect disk brakes significantly. As a result, I would suspect that the wheel is not seated correctly, despite your assurance it is. Remove it and install it again, before you clamp the QR wiggle the wheel a few times, clamp it, release it and wiggle again - all technique I am sure you know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next most likely  possibly is that brake was squeezed with the wheel off, and the pads are no longer sitting correctly. Remove the pads and reinstall them carefully -paying attention to correct alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the caliper is out of alignment now, and previously it wasn't, it has moved. This should take considerable force - or if it's alignment changed with light force, it would change back when you applied the brakes.  If you need to adjust caliper alignment, I would be seriously concerned as to why, and be looking for answers to that question before riding the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as caliper alignment - @jimirings gives an excellent answer, but it would not be my starting point for fixing this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T03:23:05.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15461" CreationDate="2013-04-25T04:15:29.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Huffy isn't one of those bike companies that has a &quot;nice&quot; well-organized** history, especially in light of its more-recent history: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huffy#Financial_problems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huffy#Financial_problems&lt;/a&gt; So if it is a Huffy, no one at the company will likely be able to confirm it. Additionally, these weren't very (at all?) sought-after bikes so there won't be a user-group maintaining a serial number database (like some high-end brands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** meaning not bought/sold/rebranded/in-name-only&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T04:15:29.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15478" CreationDate="2013-04-25T07:05:55.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if you fancy that, but with single speed setup, you can potentially better shield chain from dust and elements, which can prolong the life of drive train significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, single speed sprockets and chain rings can potentially be made of more solid material than multispeed variants, which are now days mostly done out of Aluminium to make them lighter but also to allow for more complicated shapes and machining required to ease shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T07:05:55.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-25T07:48:10.273" Score="0" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope this doesn't occur to any of us, but it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What must the cyclist do when he/she is cycling (too) fast and needs to stop or slow down immediately, &lt;strong&gt;but neither the front and rear brakes work at that moment&lt;/strong&gt; (for whatever reason), and there is almost no way to avoid collision without stopping/slowing down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any recommended actions/maneuvers to try in order to stop the bike and/or avoid/minimize the potential dangers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, a possible action is to try stopping the bike with one or two feet. What if they cannot reach the ground (i.e. the saddle is high)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5579" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T09:11:10.497" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T09:11:10.497" Title="Cycling fast - and brakes don't work - what to do?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-04-25T17:33:30.857" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-25T07:54:39.253" Score="3" ViewCount="1126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Trek 4300 MTB a few months back as my main intent was to ride off-road on local dis-used railway paths. I've since moved house and my main use of the bike is now for my commute to work. Consequently I've replaced the tyres with slick roadies and ride with the suspension permanently locked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It hasn't taken long for me to notice a juddering when I brake and it seems to be coming from the front-forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if the odd pot-hole in the road that I hit now and then has done some damage to the internal workings of the suspension that would have otherwise been absorbed had it been free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I can do with the preload to find a happy medium where I can ride with a really stiff suspension or do I need to continue to look on with bike envy at other commuters with road and hybrid bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5817" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T10:03:09.940" Title="Does riding with suspension locked do any harm long term" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15485" CreationDate="2013-04-25T08:46:40.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I'm sure you've already considered this, but for future visitors: don't get into this situation. If you're at all unsure of your brakes, &lt;strong&gt;stop riding&lt;/strong&gt; until you can get them fixed. Brakes don't just stop working for no reason. Most cyclists should &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; experience this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, are you sure you have to stop &lt;strong&gt;right now&lt;/strong&gt;? If you're on the flat, you can come to a gentle halt just by sitting up in the saddle (to make yourself less aerodynamic) and waiting a minute. This is certainly preferable except in an emergency. If it really is an emergency, and you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; stop in the next few seconds to avoid a brick wall, cliff edge, boiling lava, &amp;amp;c., do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manoeuvre to somewhere it is safe to do so, and then put your weight on one side so that you fall over sideways. You need an empty space a few metres long (depending on surface conditions and speed) to be sure you won't hit anything. If you're on a road, hitting a high kerb at an angle should help you land on the footpath. If you're in parkland or countryside, a hedge or bush is a much better option than a drainage ditch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful that even though you know a fall is coming you don't tense up: keep your joints loose and tucked in. Even at a fast cycling speed, if you stay frosty and alert you should be able to walk away from a deliberate fall like this with some bruises, no broken bones or head injuries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T08:46:40.870" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15486" CreationDate="2013-04-25T10:03:09.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Trek 4300 you have RST Gila fork which is cheap and simple. You can't really lock it completely, just pre-load the spring to maximum. I'd say you should not worry about it - the internals are very simple and can't really be damaged easily: this is no oil/air fork. It has a steel spring and some rubbers to work as dumper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And most likely the juddering you notice is not from the fork, but rather from the breaks themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T10:03:09.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15433" CreationDate="2013-04-25T11:15:29.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was a student, I used to re-lace and true wheels using the bike upside-down as the truing stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When touring, I carry a few spare spokes, and true by eye. It's better than riding a loaded bike on a twisted wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T11:15:29.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15478" CreationDate="2013-04-25T12:24:13.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't really debate whether your drivetrain will have less wear.  However, the symptoms of wear are much less pronounced on a single speed drivetrain (assuming you are not using a tensioner). You're just not going to get the same chain skipping / jumping issues you would on a derailleur system. The same thing is applicable to internally geared hubs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still important to check your chain for wear and replace as needed.  Keep in mind, a worn chain is going to keep wearing down your drivetrain. However, it's not going to really suffer much in terms of performance degradation until everything is really worn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, see Sheldon's comments on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chain-life.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;extending single speed chain land sprocket life&lt;/a&gt; by using even numbered cogs and chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T12:30:34.963" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T12:30:34.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-25T16:19:36.310" Score="1" ViewCount="886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of &lt;code&gt;Continental Cyclocross Race, 700x35c, folding&lt;/code&gt; for my Fuji Cross 2.0 cyclocross. I just bought a pair of &lt;code&gt;Continental Grand Prix 24&lt;/code&gt;. I had a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketechreview.com/tires_old/images/AFM_tire_testing_rev9.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this study&lt;/a&gt; where different tires where tested and their wattage per wheel has been listed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me how much difference in this &quot;wattage per wheel&quot; measure I have with my new and previous tires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4895" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T17:28:19.053" Title="Watts per wheel on my cyclocross" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15491" CreationDate="2013-04-25T17:26:56.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you are an elite-level professional cyclocross athlete, you will never have to worry about the rolling resistance of your cyclocross tires. And at that point you will be able to pay someone else to worry about those things for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T17:26:56.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15491" CreationDate="2013-04-25T17:28:19.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the top of the report you will see &quot;Power per Wheel at 25 mph with 100 lb load&quot;. The Watts per wheel is how much power they needed to apply to get the 25mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reality for cross is that you should be selecting them for very different reasons (how they grip, roll, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T17:28:19.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15433" CreationDate="2013-04-25T17:55:40.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want definitely want to be able to replace a broken spoke or nipple while on tour, as riding a wheel missing a spoke any significant distance, especially with the bike fully loaded, can stress other spokes and lead to cascading failures. By Murphy's law, any such failure is guaranteed to happen at the maximum possible distance from a bike store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to get the wheel perfectly trued, just in decent enough shape that it isn't interfering with your brake pads. Just tighter or loosen the new spoke until the wheel's aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can keep a few spokes and nipples jammed up your seatpost with a ball of tape or the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T17:55:40.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="190" CreationDate="2013-04-25T18:10:04.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this trick off the Internet about ten years ago. Can't remember where, I'm afraid, or I'd credit the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine that your feet are really &lt;em&gt;hands&lt;/em&gt;, and that you're not pedalling, but &lt;em&gt;winding&lt;/em&gt; yourself along some kind of rack-and-pinion track. Picture it, feel it, and keep that motion in mind as you pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our hands are much better equipped for the right kind of push-pull motion than our feet, so thinking of winding with your hands primes your motor cortex to keep a consistent amount of force round the whole revolution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay vigilant: if you notice yourself going back to piston-pedalling, just think of hands again, and you'll soon make it a habit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T18:10:04.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15381" CreationDate="2013-04-25T19:12:05.340" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Little Debbie Nutty Bars (and the like) are available in most gas stations, nonperishable, and have a lot of calories to the pound and to the dollar. They're not the best food in the world nutritionally, but you're going to need a ton of calories in your body to travel ~70 miles a day. I picked up the idea from 2x RAAM winner Danny Chew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T19:12:05.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15497" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-25T20:26:42.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cross-training is often, but not always, done in the winter when cycling is more difficult. It can involve other types endurance training such as running or strength building exercises such as weight training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T21:08:51.403" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T21:08:51.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15498" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-25T20:26:42.850" Score="0" Body="Training in areas other than cycling" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T21:08:54.810" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T21:08:54.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15478" CreationDate="2013-04-25T20:58:01.693" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd transform the comparison between single-speed vs. multi-speed (derailer) to SINGLE-CHAINLINE (single, fixed, or internal-geared-hub) vs derailed (assumed always multi-speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, there are ONLY advantages for the single-chainline bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall material is thicker. On the other hand, the need to pack a lot of gears in a cassette requires that the cogs are relatively thin, and so the chain, and that means wearing out faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainline is usually away from the rear wheel. On the other hand, the lower gears of a derailed bike make the chain get very close to the rear tire and get more dirt (MUCH more dirt in case of a fat-tired knobby mountain bike slowly building up mud during an off-road climb in the granny gear).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain doesn't catch so much road grime, (because) in the other hand, derailed bikes literally rub the chain against cogs in order to shift. Also, the cogs that ARE NOT being used keep exposing their oiled surface to the elements, gathering dust and putting it in contact with the chain as soon as it is shifted to that gear again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain is always in line, so theoretically there is an even stress on the pin/inner-plate working surface, that's where the wearing happens after all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes at least double the time, work and cleaning materials to clean a derailer drivetrain compared to single.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As already said, a single-chainline drivetrain can be enclosed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single-chainline usually won't skip when you install a new chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would say that for COMMUTING or for utility use in general, a single-geared or internally-geared bike are excelent choices. I have both setups and don't regret.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't regret giving up gears in my fixie because it is lightweight and efficient, and I can go fast if I want, and go up most hills if I want (of course not at high speed then).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I don't regret throwing some serious money for an internally geared hub, because the original cog lasted for at least 20 thousand kilometers, and I saved A LOT of tinkering with the drivetrain (such as cleaning, adjusting, and replacing parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T01:11:53.583" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T01:11:53.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15504" CreationDate="2013-04-26T07:38:31.753" Score="5" ViewCount="13846" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I went to a local bike shop to get a bike fitting advice. After taking body measurements, I was given a frame size recommendation. According to that, seat tube size, top tube size and stem length are 500mm, 520mm and 45mm respectively. Since the stem length of 45mm is unrealistic, I was suggested a bike that have 500mm top tube and 65mm stem length so that the total length remains the same. My question is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1)What factors determine stem length ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2)Can shorter top tube compensate longer stem length without any harm ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5896" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-04-26T10:38:59.350" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:51:14.223" Title="What factors determine stem length ?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15467" CreationDate="2013-04-26T09:55:47.990" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just keep at it. The human body is very adaptable and you'll soon get fitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry too much about food and nutrition at the moment, that only matters when you're cycling at a competitive level, you just need to make sure you've had breakfast before you ride in the morning. Regardless of cycling/weight loss you should try and eat a healthy balanced diet anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about heart rate and zones. At the moment you just need to get to the level where you can comfortably manage 5 days riding. This will come naturally. Its hard at the start (as you are experiencing) but it will get easier every week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a month or two you will be able to manage the ride no problems and only then should you think about pushing your performance. That's when the heart monitor is useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6407" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T09:55:47.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15467" CreationDate="2013-04-26T10:36:43.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need more rest. It's easy to forget that you don't get fitter and stronger during exercise, but when your body recovers &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; exercise. I admire your motivation and the effort you're putting in, if you don't get enough rest in between exercise, it may actually take longer to get fit (and be more painful).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By rest I mean whatever ordinary daily activity that you're already accustomed to. Maybe a short walk to shops, daily chores whatever is normal for you. If you're especially worn out, then a bit of extra sleep can work wonders in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will depend on the rest of your lifestyle, but aim to take at least one, but ideally 3, days off between cycling. YMMV, but I find this is how long it takes for the aches to subside after some unusual exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you absolutely must get fit super-fast, then at least switch to another form of exercise on &quot;rest&quot; days. Swimming for example should give your legs a rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T10:36:43.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15500" CreationDate="2013-04-26T11:16:04.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The top tube length, seat position, stem length, head angle, and bar design together determine &quot;reach&quot;, which is the primary criterion here.  Stem length also has an effect on stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top tube length and seat tube length generally are tied together (in a non-custom frame), so a shorter top tube implies a shorter seat tube (ie, a &quot;smaller&quot; frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You presumably have arms and/or torso that is short relative to your legs, hence you need a shorter reach.  Back problems (or just excess avoirdupois) could also reduce one's ability to &quot;reach&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T11:16:04.260" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15500" CreationDate="2013-04-26T11:27:37.240" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle size is determined first by frame size, which is top tube length, seat tube length, and some more minor geometries like head tube and seat tube angle.  The primary determining factor for comfort on the bike is your reach measurement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it is affected by various factors, like skeletal flexibility and the type of riding you do, ideal reach is generally considered to be the distance from your seating position, (where you actually rest on the saddle), to your hand position, (where your hands fall when placed in a neutral position on the bar), while your back and arms are relaxed and at roughly equal positions approximately 45 degrees each. Balance is what you are looking for here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stem length is a portion of the reach measurement.  That is, reach = saddle setback + top tube length + stem length + bar length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these factors can be altered to some degree to produce a correct reach measurement.  But there are other factors which affect this as well.  If your stem is too short, your steering will be too quick to react, as small movements of you body and hands will move your wheel too far, too fast.  This will make the bike difficult to control.  If you go the other way, with too long a stem, then your bike will handle sluggishly, and you might not be able to react quickly enough to an obstacle in the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the measurements that you were given, I would expect that you are approximately 5 foot tall to 5 foot 2 inches.  I think that the shop is likely offering to adapt a bike in their stock to your size, rather than getting you the correct size.  If I am correct about your approximate height, you should be looking for a 47 or 48cm frame which will have between a 65 and 80mm stem on it.  If I am not correct, post your height and riding style, and we can give you more general advice on the correct size.  Best though is to find a shop which specializes in bike fitting, and get a second opinion. I am good at bike fit, but is difficult to accomplish well without having you in my studio.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:51:14.223" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:51:14.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15500" CreationDate="2013-04-26T13:44:56.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently assembled a bike from used parts, and the last bit of adjustment was precisely the stem length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two criteria were key to decide the right length, and they didn't have anything to do with what I call &quot;The Numerology of Bike Fit&quot;. Instead, I prefer functional criteria, that is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is the bike HANDLING? I thought I would need a stem of a given length, to get a similar reach I had in another bike. After going out for a test ride, I noticed the handlebar was too responsive, and it was difficult to keep a constant radius during a cornering, due to wobbling. Also, any bump tended to unstabilize the bar, and the overall behavior of the bike was &quot;nervous&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How are my torso/shoulders/wrists FEELING? I felt the bars were too recessed, so my shoulders felt pushed behind by my arms (strange, isn't it?), and my head felt a bit unsupported. I could ease this a bit by putting the saddle back (a bit more than the sweet-spot).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THEN, I decided to abandon what common sense would say, I switched to a longer bar (3cm more forward), even with the final result being a longer reach than I had in the previous bike. Immediately, the bike felt much more stable, and my shoulders became unstressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conclusions I get are the following (and this is a very personal theory):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The RIGHT reach depends on each bike's characteristics, mostly the balance between upright/aerodynamic position determined by handlebar height, and the handling characteristics determined by top tube length and steering geometry;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is an effect on steering caused by the rider torso's weight being applied by the hands on the bar, and THE SIZE OF THE LEVER represented by stem length, that creates a self-centering force on the front-wheel. This will counteract the tendency for the wheel to fall to one side at low speeds, and the caster effect at higher speeds. By this principle, the final steering behavior depends on stem length, fork trail, and head tube angle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a given bike-rider combination, each possible handlebar HEIGHT will have a sweet-spot on REACH, and usually a change in height would require a DIFFERENT STEM to get the proper new reach, because of the steering tube trajectory not being coincident with the required trajectory of ideal positions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the advice I could give you is this:&#xA; - With either a large frame or a small frame, there would in principle be a stem length that would give you a satisfactory position;&#xA; - A longer wheelbase at cost of a longer top tube COULD mean a short stem to get a good reach. That short stem, and its correspondent short lever on the steering, could make the bike unstable and thus make you tired during long rides.&#xA; - As opposed to what common sense would say, a smaller frame with a larger stem could give you the same reach, but with a longer stem-leverage, thus making the bike more stable, requiring less upper-body input during long rides.&#xA; - Handlebar height has an effect on all this, since the lower the handlebar, the more weight you will apply over it, and more pronounced the effect of this stem-leverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, and hope this wasn't too confusing :o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T13:44:56.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15411" CreationDate="2013-04-26T15:59:04.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 62 and ride a hybrid bike. My back is fine. I have a road bike but since I got the hybrid I don't ride it any more. I put conventional handlebars on the road bike because the drop handlebars made my neck hurt. I've been commuting for about 7 years. When I started I lost 30 lbs. then gained back 10 as I adjusted. I was only moderately overweight however so I'm still OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6737" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T15:59:04.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-26T16:31:03.657" Score="3" ViewCount="1500" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend an aftermarket, front-derailleur-compatible chainguard (along the lines of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sks-germany.com/?l=en&amp;amp;a=products&amp;amp;r=chainguards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SKS chainboard&lt;/a&gt;) that's &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; made of plastic? Maybe something like the one on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marinbikes.com/2013/bike_specs.php?serialnum=2076&amp;amp;Bridgeway_Triple&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marin Bridgeway triple&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6738" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T03:03:39.910" Title="Chain guards for front derailleurs: Metal alternative to SKS chainboard?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2013-04-26T19:44:28.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that I have found is you can usually get a lighter weight bike if you go with top-level aluminum over a low-level carbon.  The low-level carbon frames tend to have a lot of fiberglass mixed in to keep the cost down and the components are much cheaper too which will weigh a lot more. I think it's kind of funny that everyone looks down on my aluminum bike and yet it weighs less than their carbon bikes that cost twice as much! I have owned carbon, steel and aluminum bikes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4498" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T19:44:28.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15381" CreationDate="2013-04-26T21:26:23.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished the ACA southern tier just this last month!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd usually be carrying bananas, sardines, peanut butter, oatmeal, knorr rice sides, whole wheat tortillas &amp;amp; granola bars. Less could certainly have been carried, but I'd usually go crazy at the grocery store. Most days you'll pass by a couple reasonably priced groceries so you don't actually need to carry too much on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granola bars are your friends! I started off w/ rice &amp;amp; beans, but they take too much energy to heat up with a stove, and starting a campfire every night is not realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I will naturally find information for the area I'm in to scavenge for natural sources of sustenance&quot; Don't know how much luck you'll have with that, but you'll be suprised at people's generoristy towards you. There were times when I'd go one or two days without touching my food stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6736" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T21:26:23.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15411" CreationDate="2013-04-26T22:36:09.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went through a similar situation -- outgrowing of the hybrid bike. I started riding my bike in the city again in September. Around November, I started going on more, longer rides with friends, and was held back by the gearing, weight, and speed limitations of my very comfortable hybrid. I upgraded to a road bike, and love it. I love being able to take on more challenging climbs and descents, and I ride way more (went from mostly commuting to/from work to 150+ miles a week). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can only attest to the satisfaction I've had in my road bike upgrade experience. I have a very different physical situation from you: mid-twenties, former athlete, was out of shape when I first started riding again, but not overweight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6742" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T22:36:09.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13867" CreationDate="2013-04-26T23:27:48.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw my car sitting in the driveway for months unused &amp;amp; said why am I keeping this thing so I gave it away. But my wife has a car so that is something like having a car myself. I can get a ride to work or rehearsals of one of the may choirs I am in but I don't because I love biking. I found that by doing it enough I started to like more outre situations like biking in the rain for example. I think that is it. The more you do it the more you will see the benefits in terms of your fitness, weight loss, the way it make your legs look, your general state of well being, and your financial well being. If you use quicken and if your spouse has a car at the end of the year total up bike vs. car expenses. You will be amazed. Then there is the ego boost part of it. Don't be afraid to groove on the awestruck responses you get -- &quot;You BIKED here? Wow!&quot; Or if you ride in cold nasty weather as I do, &quot;I have trouble getting out to my car and this one rides here on his bike!&quot; You find if you do it often enough you appreciate it even on days when it sucks and yes sometimes it just sucks, if there is say a chilly 10mph wind directly in your face the whole way. Recently I started to be bothered by asthma, but I am coping with that although my average speed is down about 1mph. I use a balaclava if it is even slightly chilly that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6737" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T23:27:48.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15507" CreationDate="2013-04-27T03:03:39.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt it exist over the shelf.  It's already hard to find one that's made of plastic.  If you really are set on going metal I'd suggest keeping a single chain ring and focus your gearing in the rear (hub, cassette, or hub+cassette combo).  Building a custom chain guard will be costly, a pain, and not guaranteed to be a success.  If you really want to have some gearing in front you could look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.haberstock-mobility.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SchlumpfDrive&lt;/a&gt; but at these prices you could also just get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rohloff&lt;/a&gt;.  Both should work fine with the standard metal chain guards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5513" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T03:03:39.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15516" CreationDate="2013-04-27T03:16:28.073" Score="13" ViewCount="1467" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one is &quot;claiming the lane&quot; does that mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) they simply ride on the street (i.e. on the left side of the lane in the US, Germany, France, ..) or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) they are riding in the middle of the lane, with someone else side by side, or some other way that they take over most of the lane width? or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C) Another definition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5513" LastEditorUserId="5513" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T02:55:00.987" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T16:25:33.620" Title="What does &quot;claiming the lane&quot; mean?" Tags="&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15525" CreationDate="2013-04-27T04:35:48.283" Score="2" ViewCount="4116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to upgrade my mountain bike and I would like to get something better than I have, if justified. I've never ridden any groupset better than alivio/deore, which work ok for me and have tolerated some abuse. I'm riding harder these days and I would like to know if a better groupset would be more durable. I'm not very concerned with the &quot;bling&quot; factor or the weight, just something that will stand some &quot;serious&quot; trail. Any thoughts? Please feel free to elaborate on the brand or isolated parts if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I would like to make the question more specific, because my intention is not to start a discussion about Shimano or SRAM. I assume that both brands are ok. Let's see: I want the bike to do cross country but not downhill. When I say that I ride &quot;harder&quot; I mean that I've gone from following a trail to now jump, go over rocks, some mud, a bit of water, etc ... That has made my drivetrain to get out of tune and drop the chain frequently, even I if adjust it before every ride. I am discarding here my shifting technique as a source of problems because I know how to shift correctly. I thus want to know at which level of the groupset hierarchies (no matter if it is Shimano or SRAM) this is less frequent. That is, that you adjust the gears and they stay adjusted for more than a ride even after some abuse. If I am going to need to adjust the gears every time no matter if the group is a XTR or a Acera, well, then I will rather save my money. But if XTR is stronger and stays tuned for more time, then I don't mind paying for the quality. I would like to hear from experienced riders if they noticed (or didn't) a great improvement in reliability (not weight or coolness-factor) when they bought a more expensive groupset. I hope that the question is clearer now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastEditorUserId="4965" LastEditDate="2013-04-27T18:41:54.023" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T13:57:27.197" Title="Minimum mountain groupset hard enough to resist abuse" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15514" CreationDate="2013-04-27T05:02:42.673" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;b) is most correct, except that you don't need anyone else by your side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the lane is riding pretty much right in the middle of the lane, and asserting control of the entire lane. Riding in the middle makes it obvious to motorists that they'll have to change lanes, or wait for a safe opportunity, in order to pass you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T16:25:33.620" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T16:25:33.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15514" CreationDate="2013-04-27T11:26:32.023" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, I'll agree.  To &quot;claim your lane&quot; you ride roughly in the middle of the lane, though precisely where depends on the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eg, if you're in a right-hand turn lane, &quot;claiming your lane&quot; is best accomplished by riding near the left-hand edge of the lane.  And vice-versa when in a left-hand turn lane.  The idea is to not give the motorist any impression that you are intending to share the lane with an automobile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are many more times when it's safe to &quot;share&quot; the lane to a degree, such that the motorist does not need to completely change lanes to pass you.  This is the polite thing to do when conditions permit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It requires some judgment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T11:26:32.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15478" CreationDate="2013-04-27T12:34:07.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;TBH, I don't think it matters much anymore, modern geared equipment is soo good it just keeps working regardless. My work commuter bike has done 3 years on the same 7 speed setup. It doesn't change as smoothly as my weekend road bike, but I don't need it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want longevity from a Fixed Drive Chain I would say get a decent Stainless Sprockets for both front and rear, and get larger sprockets as this spreads the wear. I got some surly kit and it done about 3 winters with it and it isn't massively worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6638" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T12:34:07.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15514" CreationDate="2013-04-27T16:25:17.003" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;References - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.britishcycling.org.uk/commuting/article/trav20111121-Effective-Traffic-Riding-pt-1-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Effective Traffic Riding&lt;/a&gt; (British Cycling), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclecraft.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cyclecraft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two cycling positions - primary position (&quot;taking the lane&quot;) and secondary position. These positions are relative to the &lt;strong&gt;moving traffic lane&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a moving traffic lane - that part of the carriageway along which through traffic is moving &lt;em&gt;at the present time&lt;/em&gt;. It is a dynamic concept, changing continually with place and traffic conditions. A moving traffic lane meanders past parked vehicles and other obstructions, and does not necessarily coincide with any markings on the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary position (&quot;taking the lane&quot;) is in the centre of the moving traffic lane (the blue arrow in the picture below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bpG66.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;primary position&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adopting the primary position makes it easier for drivers to see you and also prevents drivers from overtaking you. It should be your normal riding position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The secondary position is about 1 metre to the left (right in the US, etc) of the moving traffic lane but no closer than 0.5 metres to the edge of the road. The secondary position should be used when it will help others without impairing your own safety (e.g. wide roads where it is safe for drivers behind to overtake you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T16:25:17.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-27T17:17:16.570" Score="0" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;After riding my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/windsor_cliff4500_x_sale.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Windsor 4500&lt;/a&gt; for about 2 years, I got some advice to replace the ball bearings for both tires before going on a long bike trip. I plan on replacing these myself. Could someone tell me what size bearings would be appropriate for this task?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6748" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T18:23:09.993" Title="Ball bearings replacement for Windsor 4500" Tags="&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15521" CreationDate="2013-04-27T18:23:09.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should replace them with the exact same size that are already in there.  If you don't know what size, take it to the local bike shop and they should be able to tell you the size you need and order them for you.  It's likely they are sealed cartridge bearings in which case you can't replace individual ball bearings, and you have to buy new cartridges. Although I wonder why one would have to replace them after only 2 years of use. Unless you've ridden the bike a lot more than the average person would ride it, they should last much more than 2 years, especially if they are sealed cartridge bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T18:23:09.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14194" CreationDate="2013-04-27T21:45:41.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano R085, 8/9 speed, 36H $100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;QBike.com&#xA;2595 N. Federal Highway , Fort Lauderdale, FL 33305&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;800-390-2122&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.qbike.com/shimano-hub-rear-fh-r085-36-cl-8-9s-black-bulk.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.qbike.com/shimano-hub-rear-fh-r085-36-cl-8-9s-black-bulk.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this is the only thing i've been able to find. been searching since new years 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6750" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T21:45:41.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15515" CreationDate="2013-04-28T09:38:17.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: this is mostly based on my personal experience. Its an&#xA;  incredibly subjective subject, so there is no right answer. Keep in&#xA;  mind that in reality one level up or down will be completely&#xA;  unnoticeable performance difference to most riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XT is considered the &quot;Sweet spot&quot; for performance, weight and durability.  Probably X9 in the SRAM range. XTR and X0 are for sponsored riders, rich competitive riders and those that have to be seen to have the best because they will never be...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alivo is definitely entry level and although it starts out OK, is less durable and quickly becomes unreliable if used hard. Deore and X7 are known for good durability - not up to  XT in quality and feel and durability - but not far behind. IMHO Deore and X7 are a good price point for a budget conscious weekend warrior - especially if you can get last years stuff at a good price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So depending on your budget, I would recommend looking towards Deore  or SRAM X7 level gear. From you post, I suspect XT is too good for the bike and you won't get the advantage of the extra $$$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So where is you problem? The bike &quot;was good once&quot; - so the level of the gear is not the problem. I suspect the gear on it is worn out..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with a close look at the chain lines - check the Bottom bracket for movement, and check the derailleur hanger for alignment (LBS has a tool for this). Check the cables are moving freely - I suggest replace the rear derailleur if you have any doubt or its more than a year old. All this is low or no cost and can make an enormous difference if they are out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming these are OK, I would start with a closer look at the chain, cluster and chain rings. Especially check the chain is clean and free running, with no tight links. If these have not been replaced recently, its the first thing to consider. At the same time, check the derailleur for movement - this is hard if you are not experienced. A little is OK, a lot not - and how to tell - got the LBS and look at some new bikes, look at some mates bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is where you can start throwing money into a seemingly bottom less pit, so be careful. Don't feel the need to replace with higher spec components; don't go up more than 1, at a stretch 2 levels - so Alivio to Deore is OK, Alivio to XT - think very carefully. Keep it all about the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are likely to find that parts prices mean an upgrade of bike is worth considering. A MTB is more than the drive line - tires, shocks, frame geometry all make a bigger difference than smooth gear changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="7984" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T13:57:27.197" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T13:57:27.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15528" CreationDate="2013-04-28T09:54:59.710" Score="5" ViewCount="5807" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o73RI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;I've got one of those flip flop hubs, and I need to remove the freewheel side and either service or replace it as it has started slipping really badly. What tools do I need?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ptzJB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T17:59:22.033" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T13:59:38.067" Title="How do I remove the freewheel side of a flip flop hub?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15547" CreationDate="2013-04-28T09:57:28.487" Score="3" ViewCount="1739" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55qLC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;I've got an old bike with a quill stem, and the headset arrangement has a nut, and a textured lock ring. I presume I should tighten with a combination of a spanner and mole grip. Is a mole grip the right tool for the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T17:56:26.600" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T17:52:00.937" Title="How do I tighten up my headset?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15526" CreationDate="2013-04-28T11:20:49.033" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/category/freewheel-cassette&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;freewheel removal tool&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That looks to me like it will take an FR6, but you should measure first if you're planning on buying. Although, this will likely be the only time you ever use it unless you open a bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local bike shop will almost certainly have one of these and be able to whip it off it no time. They might not even charge for such a small job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon brown has &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html#remove&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;instructions&lt;/a&gt; on the rest the removal. Basically, you just need to put the tool in a vice, place the wheel on it and turn. He recommends using a quick release skewer to secure the tool, but you have solid axles so just be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2013-05-05T13:59:38.067" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T13:59:38.067" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-28T12:45:53.330" Score="4" ViewCount="1250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a bike for the first time in 10 years and after riding it for a couple of days the rear derailleur curled up like an insect ready to die. Is there any way I could fix that or am I gonna need a new shifter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6755" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T20:20:18.253" Title="Rear Derailleur Curled Up" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3906" CreationDate="2013-04-28T13:33:55.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These seem great, if only way too expensive&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dromarti.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=10_28_26&amp;amp;products_id=29&amp;amp;number_of_uploads=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dromarti.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=10_28_26&amp;amp;products_id=29&amp;amp;number_of_uploads=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6116" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T13:33:55.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15533" CreationDate="2013-04-28T18:02:50.017" Score="6" ViewCount="1677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike that I have built up over the last few years. It's a good bike and works as it is, with a good quality components. However, I want to sell it. Is it best to sell it broken down as parts or as a full bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-04-29T19:10:59.330" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T06:50:19.577" Title="Should I sell a custom built mountain bike as a full bike or break it into parts?" Tags="&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15532" CreationDate="2013-04-28T19:11:40.663" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may depend on the overall age of the bike but I would guess that in most cases it's better to sell it as a whole. If the bike only consists of rather standard components that one could easily buy at a LBS, then they wouldn't make high prices and the additional work to break it all down and maybe set them all on on ebay separately may not be worth the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine only two cases where it may be better to sell it in parts or at least to sell some parts separately:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have one or more high priced components on it that are still nearly new and unused, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there are some (older) components that are no longer available from the manufacturers but make a high price even when bought second hand as they are required to repair an otherwise still working bike (imagine 7-speed shifters from the former higher priced component groups such as Shimano XT to replace a damaged one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T19:11:40.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15537" CreationDate="2013-04-28T19:42:28.073" Score="16" ViewCount="22751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking around for bikes (decent frame &amp;amp; components), and find that hybrids do have disc brakes (hydraulic), but are never single-speed. While single-speed bikes typically have &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_brake#V-brakes&quot;&gt;linear-pull brakes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is that? Anything in the mechanics that would make the two incompatible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In my case, I'd only want a disc brake on the front — for commuting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T13:15:35.877" Title="Why are single-speed bikes with disc brakes hard to find?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15534" CreationDate="2013-04-28T20:46:21.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a cost and market thing. Disc brakes are generally a bit more spendy and require different frames and forks. There are some single speed bikes with discs, especially in the CX world. For your application, consider getting a CX fork that is set up for disk to replace the fork on a single-speed. Note that you will need to replace the wheel too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T14:53:55.910" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T14:53:55.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15527" CreationDate="2013-04-29T00:50:27.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this style is meant to be tightened by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tighten, start by tightening the knurled/textured upper race a little harder than you intend it to be once you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, add the washer and screw on the locknut as hard as you can without tightening the race any more than it already is. Too tight and you may damage the races and need a new headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then whilst holding the locknut still with a spanner, unscrew the race by hand as hard as you can. The idea is to be it clamped against the locknut so neither can move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to experiment with how tight you start to get the right tightness at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Mole grips are almost always the wrong tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T00:50:27.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15534" CreationDate="2013-04-29T03:41:28.403" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, singles need to have horizontal dropouts so you can take the chain slack by adjusting the rear axle position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that any brake that is attached to the frame will &quot;go out of position&quot; when you adjust the rear axle position. That is, by the way, the reason why some horizontal dropouts are not quite horizontal, but diagonal: to be near-perpendicular to the seat stays where rim brakes are attached, so that wheel movement is &quot;tangential&quot; to the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, with regular disc brakes, this adjustment would totally misalign the brake pads relative to the disk, if the adjustment is possible at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there are some bikes with grooves for the disk caliper, where you can &quot;slide&quot; the caliper into, it's usually not worth the trouble, because chain slack has to be corrected very often, and caliper setup is relatively laborious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it would be possible to take the slack with an eccentric bottom bracket, but that is even more esoteric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next to that, some single-speeds will come with a flip-flop hub. A flip-flop hub and a disc brake doesn't go well together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="10751" LastEditDate="2014-06-28T13:15:35.877" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T13:15:35.877" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15591" CreationDate="2013-04-29T08:48:03.033" Score="1" ViewCount="487" Body="&lt;p&gt;After adjusting my V-brake blocks to their highest setting on the lever, they still do not align with the wheel rim (they sit half on, half off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any thing I can do about this, or is it an incompatibility between the wheel size and fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6758" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T14:26:28.527" Title="Cannot raise V-brake blocks high enough to align with wheel rim" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15538" CreationDate="2013-04-29T09:08:23.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will find (usually an allen/hex key) bolt on the brake pad itself. Loosen that, align your brake pads then re-tigthen. You may also need to adjust again on the bars to get it to fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also find it easier when loose and aligning them, to pull the brakes right up to the rim and tighten the bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything you need to know you will find here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T09:08:23.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15541" CreationDate="2013-04-29T12:27:00.220" Score="1" ViewCount="861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to upgrade my cockpit so that I have a longer reach. I currently use it as my city bike. Its an old vintage HR bates frame. Currently the stem is a little short. I want to change the bars - flats, curlies or something else? What brakes are recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nd0SW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T16:15:38.657" Title="Upgrading my cockpit- brakes, stem and bars for longer reach" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15540" CreationDate="2013-04-29T14:54:55.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be aware, if you aren't already, that installing a longer stem will change the steering response - you will need to put in more effort to steer the same amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of increasing reach is to change the position of your saddle. If your saddle has rails, then usually you loosen a bolt under the saddle and slide your saddle backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, seatposts have a varying amount of layback/setback (the amount by which the saddle is offset), so you could increase reach by finding a seatpost with more layback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to change your seated position, then to counteract the effect of lengthening the stem, you can increase the width of the bars. I'd suggest remaining with flat bars for city riding, unless you want a more aero position. If you stay with flat bars then you can keep the brakes you have, and maybe refresh the cables and blocks for increased performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason for sticking with flat bars is that the bike looks fantastic as it is - it would be a shame to change too much about it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6762" LastEditorUserId="6762" LastEditDate="2013-04-29T15:23:41.657" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T15:23:41.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15540" CreationDate="2013-04-29T16:15:38.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One great way to increase the reach of your cockpit would be to change your handlebars. With any changes, it is best to do things one at a time and ride on it to get a feel for the new fit. It is cheaper to work with a shop that has components to switch in and out so you can feel the difference before spending loads of cash on new components (this is especially true with stems!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you keep your current stem, be sure to measure the diameter of the bar at the stem (bar clamp diameter.) Another consideration is the diameter of the brake lever clamps. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-handlebars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is more information on sizing specifications. Additionally, your brakes are single-pivot sidepulls and require short pull brake levers (typical for road bikes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One bar style that would fit with the aesthetic of a bike like this is bullhorns:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S80pz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bullhorn Bars&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These would maintain the flat portion allowing you to keep your current brake levers, but would give you a more extended position on the horns (similar to riding the hoods of a drop bar or a flat bar with bar ends.) There are bar-end levers that work quite well with these bars if you so choose. Alternatively, you could experiment with adding bar ends on your current bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop bars (curly in your question?) come in a few different shapes and widths - some are more comfortable in the drops and others more comfortable on the hoods of your brakes. This will likely require a brake lever upgrade, but such is life. From top to bottom: classic road, randonneur, ergonomic, track:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1rvwN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nitto Noodle&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRdsU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nitto Randonneur&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mDV0P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Specialized Ergo&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPeoC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nitto Track&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are loads more options in the world of handlebars that will stretch you out (and more that will sit you up.) I didn't mention aero bars because they'd look out of place on a classy old steel frame, but they'd definitely work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T16:15:38.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15527" CreationDate="2013-04-29T18:22:26.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll add that anything hand tight will come loose fairly soon. As the knurled race loosens it will start to damage itself an/or the ball bearings and cause sloppy handling and steering. I'm not saying that you want to torque the race &lt;em&gt;down&lt;/em&gt; to the fork, but &lt;em&gt;up&lt;/em&gt; against the lock nut as @alex suggests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then whilst holding the locknut still with a spanner, unscrew the race&#xA;  by hand as hard as you can. The idea is to be it clamped against the&#xA;  locknut so neither can move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is that &quot;by hand as hard as you can&quot; won't be good enough. You will need a tool that can grip the knurled race evenly. A pair of slip-joint adjustable pliers which are the &lt;strong&gt;right size&lt;/strong&gt; will work. You want to be able to get both sides of the pliers parallel with each other when gripping the race. Anything less will potentially slip and cause damage to the knurled surface. You might even be able to get a pair with plastic covers over the teeth to protect whatever you are gripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EWAsh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;slip-joint adjustable pliers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About mole grips or locking pliers for us in the US (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_pliers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_pliers&lt;/a&gt;) I've never found a pair that were large enough to do this. Also, you lose the hand feedback that regular pliers give you. You won't know when the race is about to slip until its too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T18:22:26.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15546" CreationDate="2013-04-29T20:08:19.200" Score="11" ViewCount="3161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar bike stand to this at home:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yvnLY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Floor stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm happy putting my wife's and my commuter in it but worried that it will damage the wheels of my XC bike if left in there for long periods. Can wheels get damaged if there is prolonged pressure on a group of spokes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2019-07-21T13:01:10.507" Title="Will a bike stand that holds one wheel damage my bike?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15544" CreationDate="2013-04-29T21:03:08.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be concerned if you you were hooking your trusty XC bike up to a public rack that looked like that, not only would it be nearly impossible to secure your frame to it but I'd fear someone would come along and indeed damage something, even unintentionally while wrestling their bike free from the same rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But at home? It depends on how long you plan to leave it there or whether or not it's actually leaning on just a spoke or two. One night at a time? Probably not worth worrying about. Leaving it there for an entire season or two? I probably would skip the risk by leaning it against a wall in a safe spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T21:03:08.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15544" CreationDate="2013-04-29T21:23:08.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing from the way you worded this &quot;pressure on a group of spokes&quot; that there is in fact pressure on spokes when you put your CX bike in this rack. Assuming that, then yes, this rack &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; cause damage to the wheel. The most likely issue you would have is that the wheel would go out of true and you'd have to true it up. My bigger concern would be your CX bike getting bumped when another bike is being put in/taken out. With the spokes already hitting, you could now bend one or more spokes and the truing process just got a lot harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've racked my bikes in racks where there was a bit of pressure on the spokes for short periods without issue. Long term, you may want to find a better spot for the CX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Directly answering your question though, a stand that only holds one wheel can do so without damaging the bike...it just needs to be wide enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T21:23:08.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15527" CreationDate="2013-04-29T22:10:15.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Daniel is right. If you tighten the knurled ring by hand, but not quite as hard as it will go, then use a large spanner to tighten the locknut &lt;em&gt;down&lt;/em&gt; against it, which will tighten the race slightly more, you won't need any sort of pliers (or, less likely to damage anything, a strap wrench). You might need to back off and try again a few times to get the load right so it turns freely but without play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T22:10:15.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15384" CreationDate="2013-04-30T01:23:30.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I can recommend for a school is either &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bouwproducten.nl/indeximages/producten_12225_320.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.metec.nl/server/multimediaserve/2387&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, and I prefer the first. It is a very simple construction, which is very space efficient and easily scalable. The other one can be used when you think that hanging your steer up isn't stable, plus it has a nice big loop for a chain lock, but it is probably more expensive, some people are afraid of bending their wheels and it's probably also less efficient in space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need your space, you could also consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://binnenstad.leiden.nl/images/resized/350/uploads/inspanningen/fietsrekken8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, which is often used at train stations, but it is less much convenient (for the one on top at least).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4807" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T01:23:30.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15554" CreationDate="2013-04-30T05:56:51.063" Score="3" ViewCount="6123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on buying a bike for city commute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commute to work is approximately 12km (7.5 miles) one way.  I live in Vancouver which means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll be riding in rainy weather frequently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll be going up and down hills.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll be going through lots of intersections (meaning lots of stopping and starting again).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I'll be commuting mostly during the rush hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since I'll be riding in rainy weather: a) should I get a bike that has disc brakes?  I read somewhere that they behave better than rim brakes. b) should I get a bike that has hydraulic vs wire brakes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since I'll be going up and down hills, I'll be changing gears.  Are bar-end shifters the best choice for this type of riding?  Or are they meant for rides where the gears don't change often.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of tires should I be looking for?  I figure (intuitively) thinner tires are faster, but since I'll be riding in rainy weather should I opt for thicker tires (more surface area)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other thing I should be looking into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6767" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-04-30T18:06:44.127" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T19:08:31.777" Title="A bike for city commute - disc brakes, bar-end shifters, tires" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-30T06:22:43.067" Score="3" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for information on stages of grand tours, particularly the upcoming Giro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can find details of total distance by stage, and the amount of ascent on the key climbs of a stage, but I'm interested in the total ascent and distance by stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can work it out for myself, if I can find an appropriate file with the route in. For example a GPX, KML, TCX etc, but I can't find them either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone found a source for this information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T13:53:38.740" Title="Grand Tours - Total Ascent (By stage, particularly the giro)" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15532" CreationDate="2013-04-30T06:50:19.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my experiences and assuming that you plan to use eBay, I would most definitely sell it in bits for this reason: No one will be searching for your custom bike config, so you'll only ever receive interest on a general level, and never benefit from targeted bargain/collectors frenzy :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eBay is busy enough now that most items you can think of listing will have a specific audience. There WILL be someone searching for a [insert you particular chainset] or [insert your part-used front tyre] and that person will develop a vested interest in your item because they &quot;need&quot; it to complete their own custom bike, or to replace an exact part on their beloved shop-bought complete bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this a lot, both as a buyer and a seller. eBayers will always bid over the top for something they &quot;just want&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T06:50:19.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15551" CreationDate="2013-04-30T08:25:47.533" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes perform better in wet weather. If you choose rim brakes, aluminum rims offer a better braking surface than carbon rims. Hydraulic brakes adjust for pad wear and both pads move inwards to press against the disc surface. Mechanical brakes push one pad (usually the outer one) onto the disc, and the disc has to flex to touch the other pad.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Brifters&quot; (brake and shifters) are easier to use. I've ridden with bar-end shifters and like its simplicity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More surface on wet roads = less grip. Choose a wide tire that offers some cushion, but also offers little rolling resistance. Some kind of protection against punctures is welcomed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6771" LastEditorUserId="35045" LastEditDate="2020-02-02T14:34:02.180" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T14:34:02.180" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-30T09:31:13.750" Score="8" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not on my own on this one as at least two other people in my Spinning class suffer the same:  when Spinning or on the Turbo Trainer, I can feel pressure on my calf muscles after a bit of time (usually less than 45 minutes).  But I can ride on the road for up to 3 hours without feeling any pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's something to do with leg angles:  on the road, the bike changes angle slightly to best match the angle of the leg, but on a spinner or Turbo, it's fixed and so can't move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any proven reasons why calfs would ache on a static bike but not on the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4589" LastActivityDate="2021-05-20T02:38:57.727" Title="Is there a reason why one's calfs would ache on a Turbo or Spinner, but not when riding on the road?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;muscle-pain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15557" CreationDate="2013-04-30T10:54:34.337" Score="4" ViewCount="3433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Haro Pro Race, which I bought for commuting and general tomfoolery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PzGmc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Haro&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute on it 2 miles a day, and I want to be able to go faster by changing the current single-speed gearing ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It currently has no modifications from the standard gearing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankset: 3-pc Alloy 175mm, Euro Sealed Bearing BB &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gearing: 39/14&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that I can go quite fast with this gearing ratio, but when it comes to going down hill it is just too easy and I no longer get any drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone suggest a better gear ratio / crankset that is more aimed for top speed, rather than acceleration, yet still allow me to accelerate from a standstill quite quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6774" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T07:05:13.503" Title="BMX gearing - for road / commuting" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15556" CreationDate="2013-04-30T11:23:58.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;what spacing is the is the rear hub? I bought an s2c recently to commute on my track bike, two speed internal geared hub with a gain of 38% but it might be over kill for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your setup you have a gearing of about 55inches, if you were to switch out the rear cog to a 12 tooth you would gain 5inches, bring you to around 60 which is considered a fairly spinny ratio on a track bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easiest way is to switch is the back free wheel. However it seems the lowest freewheel available is 13 tooth so you are limited. You could get a new chainring up front which would achieve the same but may need to buy a new chain too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3068" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T11:23:58.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15551" CreationDate="2013-04-30T13:19:03.097" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a city commuter bike, don't bother with disk brakes - go for simple rim brakes. You'll want the reliability over all else. You don't need disks for most types of road cycling, as the limiting factor for grip is likely to be your tyre anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards shifters, go with whatever is comfortable for you. I like the combination of brakes and gear levers in the same unit, as you don't need to take your hands off the brakes to change gear. This is very useful in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend touring tyres - offroad tyres lose too much power through rolling resistance, but you want tyres wide enough that you have some comfort and puncture resistance. You could also look into self sealing tyres. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2013-04-30T18:48:34.320" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T18:48:34.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15551" CreationDate="2013-04-30T15:38:27.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you should try the bike, and see if how it feels, including using the components feels good to you, if not look for something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will be riding no matter what the weather is, I would recommend looking for bike that has internal hub brakes, a full chain-case (which with gearing would normally require hub gears too), and full mud guards (fenders). With a setup like this, the weather will cause few problems to your bike and it requires a lot less cleaning and maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally a set up like this is found on the classic roadster/dutch style bikes, you will not normally get as fast on a bike like this, but if you take your time you are not going to get sweaty and wont need to change clothes at the end of your commute. Over 7 miles the slower ride will add very little time to your commute. The problem with a heavier bike like this could be the hills. There are lighter bike with more &quot;sporty&quot; geometry that are available, with the features I mentioned earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard part may be finding a shop that sells this type of bike near you to try it and see if feels good for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider would be lighting, for the type of bike you mention, I am presuming you would use detachable lights which run on batteries for cycling when dark. For a simple day to day bike a hub driven dynamo which power both front and back lights is a good consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T15:38:27.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15552" CreationDate="2013-04-30T15:48:54.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found a site with a user who appears to have gone to considerable effort to plot and upload many stages of many tours, including Tour De France 2013 and Giro D'Italia 2013 and many others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can view his list here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsies.com/trackList.do?username=Daniano&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gpsies.com/trackList.do?username=Daniano&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my sampling, they appear to be pretty accurate, but, they are not official.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T15:48:54.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15556" CreationDate="2013-04-30T18:18:12.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question isn't as straight forward as you might think. A larger front ring and/or smaller rear cog will get you a larger gear ratio and you'll have higher top speed. However, the larger your gear ratio is, the slower you'll be able to accelerate from a standstill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the highest gear at which you can accelerate from a standstill is going to depend greatly on your physical fitness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do replace something, you don't necessarily have to replace the whole crankset. You can just replace the chainring with a bigger one. That'll be a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; cheaper. You might also be able to swap out the freewheel, which may be even cheaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T18:18:12.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15565" CreationDate="2013-04-30T19:50:09.903" Score="8" ViewCount="51136" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only differences I know is that road bikes are often lighter and uses different set of brakes. But what else are the main differences? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4895" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T04:19:07.050" Title="What is the difference between race/road and cx bikes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15562" CreationDate="2013-04-30T20:14:01.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes typically come with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wider/knobby tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wider seat stays (for the wider tires) but this also makes it easier to fit fenders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compact Crankset such as 50/34&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat underside of the top tube - for carrying your bike on your shoulder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All cables to the rear along the top of top tube (or internal) - again for shouldering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted, the brakes on CX bikes are either Cantilever or Disc, mainly for the clearance of wider tires and mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am seeing more road bikes with compact cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T20:14:01.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15562" CreationDate="2013-04-30T20:15:08.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes value a different set of priorities than road bikes. You want your cyclocross bike to have wide grippy tires so that you have good traction in all of that mud. You also want &lt;a href=&quot;http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/kona-prototype-carbon-jake-snake-cyclocross-bike03-450x600.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;more clearance&lt;/a&gt; around your stays so that said mud doesn't build up too much there. You also want to have a wider wheel base and more clearance for easier maneuvering through the courses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bikes aren't strictly lighter, a carbon fiber cx bike might easily be lighter than some aluminum road bikes. But yes, in general you want to lose as much weight as you can if you're going to be racing that road bike up all of those enormous hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all of that maneuvering, another great feature on a lot of cross bikes are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/attachments/beginners-corner/27076d1122854590-top-mount-brake-levers-cockpit-top-view-800.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cheater breaks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2013-04-30T22:45:29.950" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T22:45:29.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15562" CreationDate="2013-04-30T20:41:18.543" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes will have a slightly different geometry. More like a relaxed road geometry with a higher bottom bracket than a road bike typically. You'll be stretched out a bit less and more upright. Cross frames also will have wider tire clearances for 32mm to 35mm tires, but it varies by model as some can fit 38mm to 45mm tires.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, brakes tend to be wide profile cantilever brakes for good tire clearance and less chance of clogging with mud on cyclocross bikes.  However, disc brakes are now readily available on many cyclocross bikes.  Road / Racing bikes tend to use caliper brakes which have better modulation, but typically have small tire clearances, which may be too restrictive for cross tires, especially when they are covered in mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new standard rear wheel size for disc cross bikes seems to be 135mm, so it's the same as mountain bike disc hubs. Non disc cyclocross bikes tend to have rear hubs which are spaced at 130mm, the current road standard hub spacing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires on a cross bike are going to be different as well.  Road bikes will typically have skinny 23mm to 28mm slicks.  On a cyclocross bike, you will typically have knobbier tires which may not last as long and provide more rolling resistance when compared to road tires, which is a tradeoff for having better handling on dirt / grass / mud.  You can always swap out tires to match whatever style of riding you prefer. Depending on how serious you are about racing, you can find both cyclocross and road tires available as glue on tubular tires.  However, some people have been adapting mountain bike tubeless technology and mounting cross tires as tubeless to run lower pressures for better offroad handling. It is not common to use the mountain bike style tubeless setup on a road bike, and generally not desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bikes and cyclocross bikes tend to use STI shifters and similar groupsets (chainrings / cassette / derailleur combinations), however sometimes people prefer to use bar-end shifters for cyclocross (or retroshift shifters which mount bar end shifters on brake levers).  Additionally, some cyclocross bikes have an extra guard on the outer chainring to prevent injury when mounting / dismounting frequently. These guards are typically not as heavy duty as mountain bike bash guards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cable routing tends to be different on cyclocross bikes due to the need to shoulder a  bike during the race, so under the top tube routing is typically avoided.  Sometimes 3 cables on top of the top tube or internal cable routing strategies are used.  Often times full housing will be used to help prevent cables from getting contaminated with mud as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T20:41:18.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15576" CreationDate="2013-04-30T20:59:11.900" Score="1" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a Surly Cross Check with stock everything. When I take a corner quickly on asphalt, I hear what sounds like metal vibrating, seemingly coming from the area of my front wheel. I'm used to hearing buzzing from knobby mountain bike tires in the same situations, but this sounds higher-pitched and &quot;harder.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you had the same experience? Do you think the sound is from tire nubs, or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6785" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T21:43:45.453" Title="Metallic vibration sound while cornering - hybrid/CX tires" Tags="&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15566" CreationDate="2013-04-30T22:41:09.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your headset first. Try to turn the spacers under your stem, if you can turn them by hand, your headset is too loose. Loosen stem, tighten headset, re-tighten stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is a loose spoke, but this you'd likely hear even when not cornering. You can quickly hand check the tension of the spokes by &quot;twanging&quot; them like a guitar string. You will notice if one is off. The stock wheels (at least the pic I'm looking at) has a cross pattern on the front wheel so you can also squeeze opposing spokes. You will feel if one (or more) is off. If it is, tension the spoke(s) and re-true the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T22:41:09.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15582" CreationDate="2013-04-30T23:12:23.430" Score="4" ViewCount="7955" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that Shimano releases an updated or redesigned component line about every four years. The old technology then passes down to the less expensive product line. If this is true, theoreticaly a newer Ultegra component would be a better buy and possibly of better quality than an older Dura-Ace. So my thought is, can you reliably date a component that has no serial numbers or manufacture date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T03:18:19.167" Title="Is it possible to date Shimano components?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15470" CreationDate="2013-05-01T02:04:31.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be much more worried about something like the famous Beloki crash in the TdF ten years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/rc0kEMV8GYQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T02:04:31.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-05-01T07:41:59.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the tradition of Lance, Barbie should try power doping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric assist has the huge advantage that, unlike EPO, LIPO won't give her cancer and just like Lance, power dopers can convince themselves they really are stronger than the other guy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if someone comes by stronger than Ken, Barbie can ride with the new hero and leave Ken struggling in the rear, thus restoring normal relationship dynamics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.urremote.com/2012/12/what-would-it-take-to-cycle-fast-when.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;what it would take to cycle fast when you can't&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6789" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T07:41:59.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15573" CreationDate="2013-05-01T09:59:25.187" Score="5" ViewCount="7581" Body="&lt;p&gt;A vehicle driver must keep enough &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braking_distance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;braking distance&lt;/a&gt; (aka stopping distance) between him/her and a vehicle in front in order to avoid collision. It depends on the driving speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the braking distance for &lt;em&gt;bicycles&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;between two bicycles?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and between a bicycle and a vehicle in front?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it calculated with the same formula or with a special one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And which countries enforce this rule on cyclists? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T11:16:58.910" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T00:32:55.623" Title="What is the braking (stopping) distance for bicycles?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15572" CreationDate="2013-05-01T11:06:27.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stopping distance is a factor of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reaction Time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed and Mass (bike, rider, and load)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Efficiency of Brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braking force applied (on which brakes and how applied)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road/track surface (including water, ice, gravel, manhole covers etc aspects)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyre width, grip, tread etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to notice a need to brake, move your hands to apply braking force. Then physics comes in, a bike of a given mass moving at a given speed has a certain amount of inertia that needs to be overcome and how much you squeeze the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's going to vary massively by bike/rider/situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is true of cars. Top Gear (UK) demonstrated a few seasons back the UK Highway Code approved braking distance at 60mph for a car, then showed how a reasonable car could go from 100mph to a full stop far, far, far short of that distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's trained as a rule to car drivers because of the significant damage that can be caused with a big heavy lump of metal moving fast, based on very old figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt any country enforces it on cyclists. And road cyclists in cycling groups routinely ride on each other's wheels to get the benefit of drag etc. There training and skill will come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, the practical rule trained out in the UK for motorists (and I've been (un)fortunate enough to be required to attend a driver skills course following an incident plus opted to attend some advanced motorcycle training) is the 2 second rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep a gap of 2 seconds between you and the vehicle in front. That allows you to stop in a controlled fashion. if someone is sat close behind you, expand your stopping zone to buffer their lack of stopping zone. Increase to 4s in the wet and 20s in icy conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, when it comes to bends, always make sure that you can stop in the space that is visible, so you naturally have to slow down as the road bends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, keeping a 2s gap in a cycle commute is going to have the car behind you putting you at risk!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastEditorUserId="6769" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T13:44:19.513" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T13:44:19.513" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15575" CreationDate="2013-05-01T14:24:05.717" Score="9" ViewCount="24098" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tpk7b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Freehand circles FTW&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding in an urban setting, I've lost two tubes in the last week to snakebites, and it's easily the most common way for me to get a flat. I've got Gatorskin treads, which help prevent standard punctures, but don't seem to do much (read: anything) for snakebites. Wheel set is &lt;strike&gt;extremely similar to&lt;/strike&gt; the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.com/wheels-track-ellipse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mavic Ellipse&lt;/a&gt;, i.e., very thin. Other than avoiding potholes/curbs/edges*, is there &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; that I can do to cut down on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more information for those interested:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel set &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; the Mavic Ellipse, whoops - previous owner removed all identifying labels, probably as a theft deterrent. Here's the only tag left on the tire:  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9S4eD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Obfuscated Mavic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubes are 700x23, sometimes I cram a 700x25 in there  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I inflate &quot;until it feels good,&quot; usually ~110/115 psi, tire feels hard and there's no give if I push on it, usually bounces almost as high as the height I drop it from  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rider weight ~190lbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Yesterday I got bit by a patch of gravel. Seriously.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, no chance in hell I'm trading these rims out. They cost more than a month's rent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update: Yesterday's ride home&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I left work yesterday, I pumped my tires up to 145 psi as suggested by @freiheit, and it's embarrassingly obvious that I have not been putting enough air in my tires (as in, &quot;holy crap, this is awesome, why didn't somebody tell me this sooner?&quot;). The ride was a little bouncier, but my acceleration and top speed were significantly increased.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I still got a flat about mile 7. Good news, it wasn't a snakebite, so that's nice for a change. Got home, put a new tube in and tried pumping to 150 psi, and the tire blew up*, and it failed suspiciously near the first flat. I didn't find anything in the tread (glass/nails/whatever) or any glaring defects/breaches, but the tread is pretty old and worn out at this point, so I ordered a new one. This of course, was before @amcnabb pointed out that those tires are slightly larger than the max recommended tire size for the wheelset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll update this once I get my new tire, but it looks like not enough air + old tire might have been the source of my troubles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Especially embarrassing living in Watertown, MA, where my neighbors are pretty suspicious of loud noises right now. I got a few dirty looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6792" LastEditorUserId="6852" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T02:49:55.777" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T02:49:55.777" Title="Is there anything I can do to prevent snakebites (pinch flats)?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15574" CreationDate="2013-05-01T14:40:41.420" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inflate your tires to a higher pressure. Use a pump with a pressure gauge instead of going by &quot;feel&quot;. Check the pressure more often. The max pressure listed on the sidewall is a good starting point, but if you're already inflating to max psi, you may want to exceed it a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely you have a slow leak, and you're at a low inflation pressure by the time you get the snakebite. Check the tires and rims &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thoroughly for sharp bits, and use water submersion to check the tube for leaks, including the valve. A fresh tube wouldn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your roadside inflation is with CO2 cartridges, be aware that CO2 leaks out faster, so you'll need to top off with air the next few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to seriously consider buying a second wheelset with wider rims for urban riding with wider tires, and keep the narrow rims and tires for races and weekend rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-05-02T21:43:03.583" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T21:43:03.583" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15566" CreationDate="2013-05-01T14:48:33.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a matter of checking things on you bike one by one, and seeing if the noise stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike has a reflector attached to a spoke, check that has not come loose too. I previously had an issue like this and this was the cause and it took me ages before I thought to check it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T14:48:33.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15580" CreationDate="2013-05-01T18:49:58.007" Score="2" ViewCount="1358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a carbon clincher wheelset and am looking to get a disc wheel, but don't want to spend the money for the clincher version. Would there be any foreseeable issue with running one wheel with a clincher tire and the rear with a tubular?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I get the same tire in Clincher and Tubular when purchasing tires if this is safe to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastEditorUserId="6795" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T20:55:29.903" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T23:00:50.607" Title="Running one wheel with clincher and one with Tubular" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15577" CreationDate="2013-05-01T20:55:14.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't run mixed because it doubles the gear you need to carry, spare tubes for the clincher and a spare tire for the tubular, maybe some extra sealant and hope it sticks depending on the leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not a need to get the same brand/make/tread tire as the clincher tire won't work on the tubular rim and the tubular tire wont work on the clincher rim, no mix and match so no need to get the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might look at a disc cover for your carbon clinchers. I purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelbuilder.com/aero-disc-covers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wheelbuilder AeroJacket disc cover&lt;/a&gt; and while it does not give the same sound as full disc wheel, it does give just as much aero advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T21:05:17.263" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T21:05:17.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15577" CreationDate="2013-05-01T23:00:50.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If flat takes you out of the race, then there is no big reason not to do this. As noted, the biggest reason not to is having to carry more flat protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might even decide to purposefully choose different tires - a bit heavier in the rear for a bit of puncture protection, something that adapts to wet a bit better in the front for steering when it starts to drizzle, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, not a safety concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T23:00:50.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15574" CreationDate="2013-05-01T23:12:45.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem may be that your tires (700x23) are too wide for such narrow rims. According to the manufacturer, on the &quot;Features&quot; tab for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.com/en/product/wheels/track/wheels/Ellipse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mavic Ellipse&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Recommended tyre sizes: 18 to 22 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find better success with narrower tires (or alternatively, wider rims), and as suggested by Daniel R Hicks, &quot;the narrowest tube you can find that claims to fit your tire.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T23:12:45.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15568" CreationDate="2013-05-02T03:18:19.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;All Shimano components have a series number (not serial number) embossed or engraved in the component.  While it is possible that the numbers may be worn off or scratched over on older components, the theory you are working under seems to indicate that you would be looking for newer, lower level components, rather than older higher end stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the back of the inside front derailleur plate for a number like FD-6700, for example, (which would indicate current Ultegra).  There is a number on each component, with the first 2 letters indicating the type of component, and the number indicating the series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CN = Chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ST = Shifter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BR = Brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FD = Front derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RD = Rear derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HB = Hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WH = wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BL = Brake lever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CR = Chain ring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CS = crank set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher the number the higher the component level.  Current 11 speed Dura Ace is 9000 series. Last year's 10 speed Dura Ace was 7900. The series prior was 7800. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Ultegra, the upcoming, not yet released group for Ultegra will likely be 8000.  The current is 6700 for most components. 6600 was the prior group, and 6500 before that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the 3rd number is a 5, as in 6650, (ususally only noted on the crank) then the group came with a compact crank.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the 4th number is not zero, it is either a revision, in the case of CN-6501 or 6502, or designed for a triple crank.  This will be noted on all parts, as shifters and derailleurs also must change for a triple geared crank, in most cases.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the 3rd number is a 7, i.e. FD-6770 the part was designed for electronic shifting.  This will be on derailleurs, batteries, wiring, and shift levers.&#xA;If you find a number on any single component, it can be used to date the whole group set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that is useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T03:18:19.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15574" CreationDate="2013-05-02T03:30:59.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Already suggested is trying narrower tires. Another theory I put forward is moving up to 25mm (According to Sheldon Brown Ok on this rims) would help - more volume means more load capability (for the same pressure). I am not a roadie, but MTBer's go to bigger tires so they can run lower pressures without snakebites. Surely the same mechnaics is at play here - bigger tyre same pressure = less snakebites.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to try is cheap tubes. Sounds dumb till you consider they are made thick and heavy = more pinch resistance - it does defeat the purpose of running &quot;1 month salary&quot; rims tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:.... Talcum powerder - I always rub a little on my tubes before installing - it lubricates the inetrface bettween the tire and tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-05-02T21:39:09.233" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T21:39:09.233" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2013-05-02T03:52:53.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try Bike On - Voice navigation for bikers&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bike-on-bicycle-routes-maps/id640958131?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bike-on-bicycle-routes-maps/id640958131?mt=8&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6799" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T03:52:53.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15470" CreationDate="2013-05-02T09:55:48.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the heat will damage your tires much but there is another problem that I experienced a few times. On hot patches of asphalt (either newly placed, or just on a hot day in full sunlight) your wheels can pick up a bit of sticky asphalt. This asphalt patch in turn picks up small pieces of debris from the road and that is where the trouble starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sharp rocks or pieces of glass stuck in one place on the riding surface of your tire will slowly bore their way through the outer tube and into the inner tube causing a hard to fix flat. Removing sticky asphalt from your tires is difficult when you are on the road though unless you carry paint solvents with you. What I usually do is scrape as much of the asphalt off and then press some fine sand or dirt that I checked for sharper bits on the patch. Usually the sand/asphalt mixture wears off quickly without lasting damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T09:55:48.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15595" CreationDate="2013-05-02T10:02:47.493" Score="4" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible on a short enough circuit with enough riders to create a peloton that extends all the way round the circuit.  Even in a single line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets assume the riders have a professional level of bike handling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it have the benefit that it would seem to be? Reduced wind resistance for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2013-05-02T16:07:14.407" LastActivityDate="2019-09-01T12:05:27.840" Title="Continuous Peloton" Tags="&lt;drafting&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15551" CreationDate="2013-05-02T10:08:37.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might find more general commuter bike buying, and bicycle commuting advise in these questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1073/what-do-you-wish-someone-had-told-you-before-your-first-commute/&quot;&gt;What do you wish someone had told you before your first commute?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13653/bicycle-for-2-x-30mins-commute/&quot;&gt;Bicycle for 2 x 30mins commute&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general advise for your specific points would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rain IMHO means you want fenders, unless you enjoy turning up at work with mud (or worse) all over your face.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disc brakes usually mean more expensive bikes and slightly less maintenance. If you can afford them, and you can park your bike somewhere safe both at home and at work then go for it. Otherwise, V-brakes are almost as good wrt stopping power and durability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance wise you might consider an internally geared hub rather than a derailler. Any shifter that will at least allow you to keep your hands on the steering wheel will do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A little wider and some threading is enough in most commute situations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T10:08:37.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15593" CreationDate="2013-05-02T11:50:35.603" Score="1" ViewCount="2292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently got a new bike with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/products/forks/road/dc07&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kinesis DC07 carbon/alloy fork&lt;/a&gt;. This comes with deep-drop calliper brakes (Shimano R451 Dual Pivot). The first time out I bumped one of the brakes and it twisted around the single attachment bolt and rubbed on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to easily twist it back by hand and carry on, however I thought the bolt probably needs tightening. The question is: How tight can it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the fork is part carbon I've so far only dared to take it up to 4Nm, but it still seems possible to twist the whole calliper around with a bump of the hand. Maybe that's normal? Perhaps it's easier to bump around because of the longer deep-drop lever. Should I be aiming to get it really secure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U59oy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kinesis DC07 Carbon fork with Alloy steerer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure whether the brake mount in the fork is all carbon, or some of it is alloy underneath, but either way I'd like to know what a sensible torque is. As far as I can see from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/products/forks/road/dc07&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer's website&lt;/a&gt; there is no such specification. How can I find this out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T15:57:00.470" Title="What torque for caliper brakes onto carbon-alloy forks?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15538" CreationDate="2013-05-02T14:26:28.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have 27in wheels if you have an older bike, which are larger than typical 700c wheels found on most modern road bikes. The new fork may be made for 700c wheels and have lower v-brake mounts than your original fork, causing the reach issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will either need to find brakes with longer slots on the brake arms or switch to a 700c wheel &amp;amp; tire in the front (you may be able to fit 700c wheels in both front and back, but you may have issues with brakes lining up in the back depending on the brakes you use)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T14:26:28.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15589" CreationDate="2013-05-02T15:38:30.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The site you liked to says &quot;The 3k carbon blades are deep section with eyeletted forged alloy dropouts.&quot; and this suggests to me that the crown is aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to tell if you look up from the bottom, mine are a cast aluminium crown with carbon blades and this is quite obvious from below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T15:38:30.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15589" CreationDate="2013-05-02T15:57:00.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Park Tool BBB-2 lists the recommended torque for side/dual/center pull Shimano brakes as a range from 7.84-9.8 Nm. I see no specific mention for carbon frames/forks. Bicycle tutor has a similar table here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycletutor.com/torque-specifications/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bicycletutor.com/torque-specifications/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4015" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T15:57:00.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-02T16:05:02.710" Score="77" ViewCount="25505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on commuting by bicycle to work in hot Montreal, though this question is probably relevant to anyone who bikes to work in a city with temperatures above 20 degrees Celsius (68 degrees Fahrenheit). I have to wear business casual to formal clothes (no jacket, usually).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I not sweat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm particularly looking for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helmet features that prevent sweating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tips on rhythm, speed, pace, etc. that prevent sweating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bags that will make me sweat less (I'm leaning toward nice, office-friendly panniers at the moment but I'm open to other suggestions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="1835" LastEditDate="2013-08-16T01:36:28.330" LastActivityDate="2019-07-25T14:35:28.497" Title="How to ride to work without sweating?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="20" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="22" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15587" CreationDate="2013-05-02T16:29:03.430" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your question is, &quot;can wind resistance be reduced for everyone on a small circuit,&quot; then the answer is &quot;yes, this is a well-known effect, and if the circuit is small enough even one rider is enough.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is well-known that riders on indoor velodromes create their own &quot;draft&quot; by circling the track. This effect is large when the number of riders is large (for example, in a points race) but is even measurable when there is only one rider on the track (for example, for the hour record). Even a straw can stir up a bath tub, and even a single rider can set up a circulating current in a velodrome. In a typical velodrome the &quot;draft&quot; varies between the straights and the curves, and from the infield up to the top of the banked curve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of &quot;draft&quot; or aerodynamic benefit varies, as noted, with the number of riders but also their speed. For a single rider on a 250m indoor velodrome at individual pursuit-like speeds the reduction in &quot;effective&quot; drag area due to this effect can be close to .005 m^2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Field measurements of aerodynamic drag based on velodrome tests must be corrected for this effect. That is, real-time measurements of drag will decrease for the first few minutes while the rider &quot;stirs the bath tub&quot; until it reaches an equilibrium value. You can also see this in the power-to-speed relationship for hour record attempts (which are always done on a track -- power-to-speed decreases over the first several minutes) and in team pursuit events. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T16:29:03.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-05-02T17:18:48.550" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even a short sprint or uphill effort can make a big difference in how sweaty I am when I get to the office. Maintain a consistently low effort, using low gears for any uphills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Panniers are good, since backpacks and messenger bags not only insulate, but also hold your shirt directly against your sweaty back. Often I'll put my shirt in my pannier and just change that when I get to the office. Pants take a bit longer to soak through, but they're even more embarrassing if they do, so be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, change your hours so you can ride in during the coolest part of the day. On a sunny day, the temperature rises a lot between 7am and 9am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6785" LastEditorUserId="6785" LastEditDate="2013-05-02T17:26:21.760" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T17:26:21.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14857" CreationDate="2013-05-02T17:36:47.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have these fitted to my Carrera Subway 8.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They seem to work well, but yes they rattle quite a bit when going over rough ground.  The cooling fin becomes tight when the brakes are applied so must be a direct connection to one of the friction faces.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might have a go a dabbing a bit of silicone at three points around the interface of the cooling fin to see if it subdues the rattling :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6804" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T17:36:47.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-02T18:23:47.600" Score="10" ViewCount="17785" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use a Shimano Deore XT Chain CN-HG94 on my road bike. Are there any differences between roadbike chains versus mountain bike chains that prohibit this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sample Road Bike Chains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/road/dura_ace.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dura Ace CN-9000&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/road/Ultegra_Di2.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultegra CN 6701&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sample Mountain Bike Chains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/mountain/deore_xt/product.-code-CN-HG94.-type-.cn_mountain.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deore XT CN-HG94&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4107" LastEditorUserId="4107" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T11:38:05.143" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T14:22:59.117" Title="Can a 10-speed mountain bike chain be used on a 10-speed road bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-05-02T21:53:24.443" Score="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible, but only in certain conditions. I live in a tropical country, so, 20 degrees centigrade is considered cold here. My conmute to work is almost flat, with only one climb, something a very steep 300 meters. If it were not for that, I'd be able to get to the office almost completely dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the trick? I use a hardtail mountain bike with a small rack in the seatpost. The bike has a sporty position, but the trick is to pedal in the easy gears and making very little effort, accelerating very slowly. The effort should feel comparable to a moderate walk. Also, take as much advantage as I can from the downhills (Update: later on, I changed the tires to slick ones, that reduces the effort needed to move).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, ideal conditions are an exception. I have already told you that I have to climb a very steep hill, so I just put the easiest gear and pedal like a grandmother for that hill (While in &quot;sports mode&quot; I can climb the same hill in 4 gears higher and a quarter of the time). I sweat the minimum and I manage to avoid clothes changes, but there are other things I do to minimize body odor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drink more water than actually necessary: urine then turns colorless which is a practical indication that the urinary system has got rid of most waste substances. This helps because some of these substances make their way into sweat and contribute to body odor. The practical point is that even if you sweat, it won't stink that much. *(1, 2, 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a little deodorant in other parts of the body besides armpits. (I recommend a little in the chest and in the back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carry a clean hand towel and use it to dry the sweat when you get to the workplace. First the face, then the hair, then the neck, arms and last, armpits. This helps because part of body odor is caused by bacteria(2) that reproduce and feed in the warm, humid environment provided by the sweaty body, so cutting the time the humidity lasts reduce the growing of bacteria. The towel can be pre-scented with a suitable cologne if you want. Rinse the towel thoroughly and twist dry it as much as you can. It won't be smelly if you do it right, so you can discretely hang-dry it near your desk without disturbing anyone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave home early enough so you can take your time getting to the office, also, plan to get there 20-15 minutes prior to the time you have to be there, so you can spend those &quot;cooling off&quot;. Sprinkle your face with fresh water, moisten hair (and apply hair gel, if you use to do so) which help against &quot;helmet hair&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid carrying backpacks or anything similar. Any strap that makes your clothing tight against your upper body will wrinkle the clothes, will restrict airflow around your torso, preventing sweat evaporation thus avoiding its cooling effect(1), so it will make you sweat more. They will also cause curious sweat marks in your shirt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All those tips are easy to implement, and can keep you from needing to change clothes. After you cool off and clean yourself with the towel, most people won't even notice a difference on you if you hadn't commuted by bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per anecdotal stuff, my grandfather used to commte exclusively by bike, in a small city located in the Valley of Sula (Valle de Sula) near the city of San Pedro Sula in Honduras. A valley in a tropical country has a very hot weather all year round. He used a bike similar to the &quot;Flying Pigeon&quot; (Google Flying Pigeon Bike for images). That is a heavy steel bike with 28&quot; wheels, a very high gearing and a very comfortable seating position. I remember that he was never sweaty, even if he commuted from workplace to his home for lunch, right under caribean sun at noon. Two elements had a big role in it: 1) the city is completely flat, no climbs, no downhills. 2) The bike he used is almost impossible to pedal in an sporty way, it kind of 'forced' you to pedal in a smooth fashion, with slow cadence, but after a while, you get some speed that is really easy to keep. It makes you feel you can go for hours without getting tired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspiration&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Perspiration (Wikipeia)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Body_odor#Causes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Body odor (Wikipedia)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urinary_system&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Urinary system (Wikipedia)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="26813" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T18:33:28.103" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T18:33:28.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-05-02T23:01:35.277" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, getting &quot;sweaty&quot; is a function of the temperature, humidity, clothing, level of effort, length of exercise, and your personal propensity to sweat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're dressed lightly enough, the weather is not too bad (below 75F and maybe 60% humidity), you travel only a short distance (maybe 2 miles max) on relatively level ground, and you maintain a very &quot;casual&quot; pace, then you can hope to arrive without too much visible sweat.  (You may have to wipe your forehead, eg, but possibly that's it.)  And for shorter distances you can probably stretch the other parameters a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The killer, of course, is humidity.  If the relative humidity is 80% it's going to be hard to avoid working up a sweat, regardless of the other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than simply hoping that you won't get sweaty I'd recommend having a way to change your shirt and &quot;freshen up&quot; a bit on arriving at your job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look into one of the &quot;sport towels&quot; for drying off at work.  They're compact and travel well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T23:01:35.277" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15605" CreationDate="2013-05-03T00:04:25.803" Score="5" ViewCount="1509" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this morning I'm riding to work on my shiny new tourer, when my trouser leg gets caught in the Gates belt drive. Not good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd rather not go the leg-strap route if I can avoid it, which leads me to ask whether a chain guard or chainring guard exists that would fit over a belt, given that the belt is wider than a chain. The crank is a Shimano Tiagra, if that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T14:37:29.653" Title="Chain guard for a belt-drive bike?" Tags="&lt;belt-drive&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4674" CreationDate="2013-05-03T02:17:56.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this messenger bag / painier : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timbuk2.com/tb2/products/shift-pannier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.timbuk2.com/tb2/products/shift-pannier&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6806" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T02:17:56.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15602" CreationDate="2013-05-03T06:52:19.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tight roll was popular when I was a teen. It's less fashionable but infinitely more useful now. You just fold over the cuff of your pants and then roll them a time or two. Super easy and nothing to keep track of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tight_rolled_pants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tight_rolled_pants&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T06:52:19.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15602" CreationDate="2013-05-03T10:04:40.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are chainguards that work with derailleur bikes. Your belt might be wider than a chain, but it isn't wider than a triple :-)&#xA;Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hebie-chainguard-for-triple-ring-systems-with-a-48t-outer-ring-prod19993/&quot;&gt;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hebie-chainguard-for-triple-ring-systems-with-a-48t-outer-ring-prod19993/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(If you've got a 52t chainring, it might be trickier to find something that will fit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T10:04:40.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15606" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-03T11:04:48.037" Score="3" ViewCount="3973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Giant Defy 3 2012 and I want change handlebar from drop down to straight. &#xA;I wonder if I can use Shimano Alivio M430 3-9 shifters with my front and rear Sora derailler. Thanks for advice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6812" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T08:06:29.983" Title="Shimano Alivio with Sora compatibility" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4674" CreationDate="2013-05-03T13:41:32.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Truthfully, the padded laptop sleeves found in many quality messenger bags and backpacks—Patagonia, Timbuk2, etc. &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; protect your deck from all but the worst accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really worried about wiping out (and the &lt;em&gt;bigger&lt;/em&gt; concern in my mind, the adverse effects of road vibration) the best protection will come from a hard case like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0069IYAA8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pelican 1090&lt;/a&gt;. You could strap it directly to your rack, or put the case into a pannier or messenger bag. I use Pelican cases for transport—air, bike, boat &amp;amp; Land-Rover—of camera gear and have never been concerned about gear damage through rough handling or moisture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hard case is overkill, perhaps a hybrid solution like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radtech.us/products/shoulderbags/stmarmour&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;STM Armour Rugged Shoulder bag&lt;/a&gt; would better suit you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I have many, many foot/bike/Rover miles using my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tombihn.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tom Bihn&lt;/a&gt; Brain Bag and the (now called) Brain Cell—the padded laptop sleeve that fits several of Bihn’s bags and can also be used separately or in a bag you already have. Now that my laptop is most often an iPad or MacBook Air, I'm using a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.goruck.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GORUCK&lt;/a&gt; Echo  as my every day carry pack and am fully confident that it will protect my decks from life's little surprises. GORUCK makes larger packs that will accommodate a 15&quot; laptop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-manufacturer links provided for reference only. No affiliation or endorsement of vendors intended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4003" LastEditorUserId="4003" LastEditDate="2013-05-03T13:53:39.150" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T13:53:39.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4674" CreationDate="2013-05-03T14:26:23.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a bag, but if you're &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; looking to protect your laptop, I highly recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006C21MCU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pelican laptop cases&lt;/a&gt;. Foam padded, hard outer exterior, waterproof, and doesn't add much weight. It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a little bulky, but I don't have any problem just dropping this in my pannier (I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001OMMH4K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these Ortliebs&lt;/a&gt;). One thing to note, however, the included shoulder strap is pretty much useless, I've never bothered to use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6792" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T14:26:23.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15343" CreationDate="2013-05-03T15:11:54.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the intensity level of training should be further considered; &#xA;it's ok to take a walk first thing in the morning on an empty stomach, but an interval training session would probably be counter-productive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6816" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T15:11:54.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15606" CreationDate="2013-05-03T15:56:50.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know if it helps,... but I use Sora shifters for Alivio rear derailleur (switched bars from straight to drops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would think they are compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T15:56:50.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15574" CreationDate="2013-05-03T16:27:51.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience tells me that if you are a commuter then you should consider wider rims/tires. That said, I found Bontrager Hard Case were effective against pinch flats when I was using my road bike to commute: 23c rear, &amp;amp; 25c front. (Don't say it.) I used to be plagued by other types of flats on my road bike, but only in the rear. I got so desperate I tried Airless tires, which btw suck - don't bother. Also tried Slime tubes which were reasonably effective.&#xA;In part to test my wider-is-better-for-commuting theory I recently bought a crossover that uses (hang on while I go look) Nimbus Flakjacket 28c tires front &amp;amp; rear which I mounted with liners &amp;amp; inflate to 120psi, 5psi under the recommended limit. Had it for oh at least 3 months. I commute every day; take longer rides on the weekends, no flats yet!  My commute starts suburban &amp;amp; goes to urban so I've had some teeth-jarring pothole bangs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6737" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T16:27:51.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13580" CreationDate="2013-05-03T18:37:35.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/forum.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeForums.net&lt;/a&gt; is a fairly active community with a wide range of topics around cycling.  There is a regional section which goes down to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php/243-Europe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;European level&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5513" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T18:37:35.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15935" CreationDate="2013-05-02T11:24:17.837" Score="3" ViewCount="1226" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last Sunday I noticed that my bike makes creaking noises (similar the hull of a ship, but on bicycle scale - imagine a rat making the sound &quot;creak&quot;). It seems to me that this is related to stressing the bike frame, but I can't generate the creaking in a ready manner, and sometimes it goes away. It also isn't connected to pedaling or bike movement. I can't pin-point a source(like a screw or bolt, or shaft).&#xA;It sometimes creaks when I just get on it, then I can ride 10 minutes without a sound.&#xA;Still, this is a new sound to me, and I've and I wouldn't want something in my frame to crack when I'm doing 50 down hill and going into a curve.&#xA;I've gained 6kg since I bought the bike, might the extra weight be a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I worry, or has someone experienced something similar before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6819" OwnerDisplayName="Rafael Cichocki" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T15:31:28.920" Title="Is a Racing-Bike making creaking noises a sign of equipment damage?" Tags="&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15614" CreationDate="2013-05-03T21:42:20.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue and spend 2 months trying to pinpoint the issue. The main places I would suggest checking are your cleats (assuming you are using them since you mentioned it was a race bike), Bolts on all connection points (handlebars, seat, etc) and then finally if none of those are out of place check the rear hub to see if it needs rebuilding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T21:42:20.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15614" CreationDate="2013-05-04T01:03:52.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not gonna ding you with a &quot;duplicate question&quot;, but see, eg, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/124/creaking-from-cranks-spindle-how-to-fix&quot;&gt;Creaking from cranks/spindle. How to fix?&lt;/a&gt; .  And there are several others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creaking is a fairly common problem and can be due to a number of causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The crank arms shifting on the crank axle. (This is by far the most serious of the conditions, since, left untreated, it can result in expensive damage.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pedal threads creaking in the crank arms.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bottom bracket cartridge shifting between the cups.  (Though this is more apt to make ticking or &quot;ping!&quot; noises than creaks.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The handlebar.  With lightweight bars there is a short tube-like stiffener glued over the center portion of the bar, to create a more robust mounting point for the stem clamp.  The bar proper can shift in the tube and creak.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheels/spokes.  Very often &quot;crossed&quot; spokes will creak or go &quot;ting&quot; where they cross.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seat/saddle.  Springs may creak, or any of several parts may move relative to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frame.  This is rare for a steel or aluminum frame, but may be more common with carbon.  Generally creaking from a steel frame would suggest imminent failure, but it's harder to say about the others.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rider.  I know I creak more and more as I get older.  (And I actually do have a trick ankle that will audibly &quot;tick&quot; at times when I walk (loud enough for others to hear), though generally not when I'm riding.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stem in the headset.  If there is some play/looseness in the stem's insertion in a threaded headset, then the shifting weight/pull/push on the handlebars can cause vibrations that make it creak.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the frame and the crank arms, creaking is generally not a serious concern.  But it can drive you crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T03:00:36.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8626" CreationDate="2013-05-04T01:25:28.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a hybrid in which I made some modifications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed my crank to a fifty tooth and thus I had to change the bottom bracket. This not only made my bike a little faster but the weight was reduced as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tires were 32s and I put on 25s. I also reversed my handlebar stem which brought my handlebars lower. On top of that I changed the position of the handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have cages on my pedals toe clips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conclusion to all my efforts: the bike is lighter, faster and my position on it more aerodynamic. I can keep up with my friends and their super bikes without a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6820" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T01:51:30.200" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T01:51:30.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15343" CreationDate="2013-05-04T05:23:50.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride mornings in a fasted state and i believe it has helped, not just in terms of weight but also endurance.  This type of exercise should not be high intensity just moderate.  There is a scientific study that looked into this it was referenced in this NY Times blog article: &lt;a href=&quot;http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/12/15/phys-ed-the-benefits-of-exercising-before-breakfast/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/12/15/phys-ed-the-benefits-of-exercising-before-breakfast/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6824" LastActivityDate="2013-05-04T05:23:50.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15622" CreationDate="2013-05-04T06:45:28.920" Score="13" ViewCount="53310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to lose weight. I commute to my office daily by walking 3 kilometers. If I buy a bicycle and use it for commuting (total 3 km daily), would it be better than walking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2795" LastEditorUserId="2824" LastEditDate="2013-05-05T12:32:34.353" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T02:17:00.183" Title="Is cycling better than walking to lose weight?" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15619" CreationDate="2013-05-04T09:02:11.367" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rational side of me says that over the short distance you're talking about, walking would cost more energy than cycling. The caveat here of course is how fast you walk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when I first got back on my bike (and I was pretty overweight), I started off cycling between the train station and my office. It was something like 2 miles each way, and used to take maybe 10 or 15 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did this twice a day, five days a week, and really started shedding the pounds. I found this incredible, with such a small amount of time spent in the saddle. And at the same time, I was eating the same things I always had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of was that my heart rate got sufficiently high when I cycled (never that high when I walked) that it kick-started my metabolism and burned fat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How likely this theory is I have no idea, but there was no mistake what I saw on the scales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-05-04T09:02:11.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15619" CreationDate="2013-05-04T13:12:51.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how vigorously you walk or bike. Like, &lt;a href=&quot;http://healthland.time.com/2010/06/29/biking-versus-brisk-walking-weight-control-for-women/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; looking at long-term weight change said people did better with &quot;increases in moderately intense exercise, including biking, brisk walking, jogging, swimming and hiking — but not to slow walking (less than 3 miles per hour).&quot; So, if you walk slowly, biking or walking quickly would be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like @Daniel R Hicks suggested, you could also think about adding some distance to your commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6785" LastActivityDate="2013-05-04T13:12:51.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15619" CreationDate="2013-05-04T14:47:43.980" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15570150&quot;&gt;This research&lt;/a&gt; claims around walking 334 kilojoules of energy expended for a 1.6km walk&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the same 1.6km distance, if you cycled at 20km/h at 70watts (arbitrary but vaguely-plausible numbers), you would be involve around &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=100+watts+%2a+%281.6+km+%2F+20km%2Fh%29+in+kilojoules&quot;&gt;20 kilojoules&lt;/a&gt; being &quot;sent to the pedals&quot;. Assuming you are about &lt;a href=&quot;http://large.stanford.edu/courses/2010/ph240/stetler1/&quot;&gt;20% efficient&lt;/a&gt;, that would be 100kilojoules burned&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that distance, at a relatively leisurely pace, walking uses more energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is more to it than that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling is a more efficient means of transport. Both methods may use similar amounts of energy, but cycling will be faster. This means you could cycle a longer route to work, &quot;burn more calories&quot;, and still get to work at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, cycling has it's drawbacks - it requires more supporting equipment (a bike being the main part, also things like a helmet, puncture repair kit, maybe lights, and of course somewhere to securely park the bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..but really, the most important factor is doing &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt;. Maybe choosing cycling would mean you would spend months saving up the money before you even start? Or maybe you'll enjoy cycling, and start going on longer rides, for fun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, remember the natural reaction to more exercise is simply &quot;eat more&quot;. It is hard and requires conscious effort to go against this (to increase exercise &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; eating more)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastEditorUserId="4353" LastEditDate="2013-05-05T11:49:21.563" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T11:49:21.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15631" CreationDate="2013-05-04T19:29:29.483" Score="11" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year, we bought a child-sized bike and removed the pedals. My three-year-old has been using it as a push bike (a.k.a. balance bike, run bike, or scooter) and learning how to balance. The plan is that once she's ready, I'll put the pedals back on, but I won't be adding training wheels. However, I don't want to put the pedals back on before she's really ready because it would be a pain to take them back off again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She's now at the point where she can coast for about five seconds at a time, but she doesn't ride in a particularly straight line. She often asks for pedals, though I'm sure she doesn't appreciate the effort that will be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know when she's ready and it's time to put the pedals back on the bike? What specific goal can I give her to work towards (i.e., &quot;When you can do XYZ, then you can have pedals&quot;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/452/what-is-the-best-method-to-teach-a-young-child-to-ride&quot;&gt;What is the best method to teach a young child to ride?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T08:26:46.647" Title="When is a child ready to switch from scooting to pedaling?" Tags="&lt;children&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13580" CreationDate="2013-05-04T19:54:09.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crazy Guy on a Bike&lt;/a&gt;, while not a social network, has some extremely active forums. While Bikeforums is much larger, since you commented that you're primarily interested in touring, you'd do well to check out CG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2013-05-04T19:54:09.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15619" CreationDate="2013-05-04T20:55:48.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In considering the efficiency of exercise with regard to weight loss, the variable which should be optimized is &lt;em&gt;time&lt;/em&gt;. If we put in some hours walking versus cycling, which is better use of our time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is: whichever you put your gut-busting effort into!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leisurely cycling on a flat course for an hour will use less energy than a one hour race-walk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, all-out cycling for an hour to go as far as possible in that time will beat a leisurely one hour stroll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either activity will make you fit and lean if you treat it as a sport, and train progressively to bring down your times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2013-05-04T20:55:48.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-04T23:00:13.393" Score="1" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally broke the master link (a.k.a reusable missing link) on my 10psd KNC x-10 chain.&#xA;Since I only had a SRAM 9spd replacement link, i used that to connect the chain.&#xA;I rode 30 Km without any issue, but is it a good idea to leave the 9spd link in place, or should i replace it with a dedicate 10spd link?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2512" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T05:49:50.820" Title="Is it ok to use a 9spd link on a 10spd chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2013-05-05T00:47:53.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;3M duct tape, 3 layers at least (cut to fit). Alternative: 3M super 88 electrical tape. Again layers of it. These are just poor mans solution in an isolated place but with a hardware store around. If you have good LBS stores nearby, get the best recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6829" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T00:47:53.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15630" CreationDate="2013-05-05T01:48:55.613" Score="1" ViewCount="7060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed the rear wheel (quick release) from my Trek bike to install a bike trailer hitch.  After replacing the wheel, the brake pads are rubbing.  I did over-tighten the wheel when I first put it back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried jiggling the brakes around, removing the hitch, but nothing seems to work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else that came up while trying to solve this problem.  I noticed that if I hold the brakes in just the right position to eliminate rubbing, the wheel seems to come in contact with the brakes once per rotation.  So, as a follow-up question, is this a symptom of a bent wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6830" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T02:08:18.610" Title="Brakes contacting wheel after reattaching" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15623" CreationDate="2013-05-05T02:06:10.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with kids in that age, but I think the most important skill she can have is to cover a large enough distance without stepping the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much is &quot;enough&quot; is debatable, but there is sort of a &quot;qualitative&quot; difference between running with the aid of a scooter (long, but predictable, consecutive steps), and giving the scooter some momentum and then &quot;gliding&quot; with it while the legs do nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &quot;do-nothing&quot; phase, where the scooter is going balanced and well-controlled, and the kid has to lift/spred her legs so that they do not interfere, is a sign (in my opinion, be noted!) that she requires the pedals, either to rest her feet, or mostly to keep the bike going FOREVER!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T02:06:10.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15628" CreationDate="2013-05-05T02:08:18.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With some bikes the wheel is not self-centering.  This is especially true on less expensive bikes with a separate derailer hanger vs one that is integrated into the frame.  If you look you can see that the left and right dropouts are not symmetrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such cases you must manually center the wheel when you remount it.  The best way to do this is to install the wheel, place the bike on the ground with the quick-release loose, hook your hand under the rim near the brakes, and move the rim left-right until the wheel is centered between the brakes.  Then, while holding the rim, tighten the QR.  If the brakes do not self-center well enough to serve as a reference point you may need to sight between the tire and the two seat stays (rods from seat to rear hub) to center the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, you have a bike that should be self-centering then either the axle is not all the way seated in the dropouts or you've somehow messed things up while installing the hitch.  Did the installation require disassembling the quick release?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rubbing you describe is a sign of a misaligned wheel.  No wheel is perfect, but if its enough for you to notice the wheel probably should be aligned in a bike shop.  (If you recently bought the bike the shop should give you a &quot;touch up&quot; alignment for free.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T02:08:18.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15623" CreationDate="2013-05-05T05:48:54.800" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did the same thing for my son when he was 2. After a year and a half, he just &quot;looked&quot; ready. I knew he could ride so I had him try pedaling. I have a short hill in the front yard and put him near the bottom. He was determined to NOT ride properly, so after about 25 feet he &quot;fell&quot; off and said &quot;SEE!! I can't do it!&quot; I laughed and said, &quot;You did it almost all the way across the yard!&quot; Just then his mom came out and asked him to show her, and he jumped up and rode for a few minuets all by himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made sure that the seat was set so that he could easily touch the ground with both feet at the same time so that if he got nervous he could just stand up, but it never got to that point. He was 3.5 years and my girl was 3.75 years when they both learned to ride (I was a few weeks short of being 8 when I learned)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is any magic rule to guide yourself with, just look at her confidence and let that be your guide. Make sure she can touch both feet on the ground at the same time, and it really shouldn't be much different than what she is doing now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(PS: If you do put the cranks on and she just can not do it, you can always just take the pedals off rather than the whole crank set, that will save a lot of time!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the video of him a few months after he learned to ride at youtube here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtube.com/watch?v=fnb7uhC1J2Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtube.com/watch?v=fnb7uhC1J2Q&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few months BEFORE he learned to ride: &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtube.com/watch?v=jfrz0Q6I_rw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtube.com/watch?v=jfrz0Q6I_rw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;at age 8 when he learned a &quot;Nothing&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtube.com/watch?v=CdOfmWYt9FQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtube.com/watch?v=CdOfmWYt9FQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My girl when she learned: &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtube.com/watch?v=vP6qio6LS78&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtube.com/watch?v=vP6qio6LS78&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-05-08T18:13:00.243" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T18:13:00.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15626" CreationDate="2013-05-05T05:49:50.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem you might run into is too much movement in the link. This will not show any problems for a while, maybe months, but the more movement there is the more damage you are causing the link and it will eventually fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you are doing at the time when it fails, you might just be inconvenienced and have to walk home or, in my case when I was 18, launch yourself over the bars at 25 MPH, slide down the road and open your elbow to the bone, spend 3 hours in the ER digging out all the gravel, have a wound that smells like rotting meat, and a scar that takes up 25% of your arm 20 years later... Swap out the link when you get a chance, or better yet, buy a new chain, WAY cheaper than an ER visit!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T05:49:50.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15556" CreationDate="2013-05-05T06:29:03.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an easy gear ratio chart, it will give you a calculation and you can compare it to other sizes that will give you a good gauge to see what you might want to try: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/10banh1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;bmxultra.com gear ratio&quot;&gt;bmxultra.com Gear Ratio Chart&lt;/a&gt;. I grew up with the 16t rear so my calculations always go relative to that row. Usually BMX racing starts at 45:16, which is really close to what you have at 39:14, and goes up from there. I raced with a 46:16 and never wished for a larger front. This would be about a 40 for you with a 14t rear. If I remember correctly, Fuzzy Hall used a 48:16, and I have seen 53, but that was for a guy on a half pipe to pedal in the flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freestyle gears are set about 44:16, which is just between 38 and 39 on a 14t and then go down, I ride 36:14 on my street bike, and although it pedal more to go the same speed, I go as fast as I need to go, but with the advantage of shorter strokes to get up on rails in tight spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moral of the story is, you will need to learn what you like for different purposes. My son has 9t rear cassette, and if you are willing to spend the money, you might consider going smaller front AND rear. This will reduce the overall weight due to less metal, it will also reduce the chances of busting your sprocket or chain since you will have smaller parts making them harder to hit. You will find more parts are being made for the 9t rear, which is another incentive to go smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a 40t front, maybe even try a 41, and since you have a chain-ring rather than a sprocket, you can replace them pretty quick and cheaper. Find what you like and keep your old parts so that if you go too big, you can always go back. You might also want to keep different chains with each sprocket so you dont need to remove or add links. You might even want to swap the gears out on a daily basis depending on what you are riding that day, cross town? use the 41, skatepark? swap out to the 39.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T06:29:03.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15645" CreationDate="2013-05-05T21:26:51.480" Score="3" ViewCount="7271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mavic Open Pro rim in 700 diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer recommends tire widths between 19 and 28 mm : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.com/en/product/rims/road-triathlon/rims/Open-Pro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mavic.com/en/product/rims/road-triathlon/rims/Open-Pro&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How strict is this recommendation?&#xA;Could I fit a 30mm wide tire on that rim despite the fact that 30 &gt; 28?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T20:01:38.330" Title="Rim width / tire section tolerance?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-05T22:23:23.943" Score="0" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;in my country Dudes usually gather and make some Cycling groups , they usually organize rides during weekends periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i'm planning to spend some time in Leipzig, Germany this summer and i know Germany has a lot of places which would be wonderful to cycle through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i'm asking if i can find cycling groups that organize such things or trips using bicycles in Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6837" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T15:44:54.093" Title="Cycling communities organized rides in Leipzig , Germany" Tags="&lt;germany&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;&lt;organized-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15640" CreationDate="2013-05-05T23:18:09.610" Score="5" ViewCount="4398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live (Ontario, Canada), I am lucky enough to have access to a number of packed limestone trails (former railways). These are fairly flat and great for bicycling. They are mixed use, so sometimes they are very uneven - mostly from dried up horse tracks or farming machinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently using a cheap supermarket bike; the ride is really bumpy and uncomfortable at times. I was thinking of upgrading to a proper mountain bike, but I am wondering if that would be overkill as the trails are pretty flat. Should I go with a bike with front suspension only, or both front and back? Any suggestions are appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a hybrid bike (Specialized Sirius Sport) but the thin tires and clip-in pedals make it less than ideal for those trails and I feel like I am damaging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6838" LastEditorUserId="26152" LastEditDate="2016-10-06T20:35:11.187" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T04:37:22.117" Title="Bike type suggestion for packed limestone trails" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-06T03:18:37.537" Score="1" ViewCount="664" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure lots of people are familiar with the Allen Coggan Relative Power table that then relates your 'score' to what category rider you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is that given rides/segments/hill climbs are rarely exactly 5 seconds/1 minutes/5 minutes or an hour long, what formula is required to adapt a known relative power reading to each of these 'time-frames' for comparision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hill that took 8 minutes and 15 seconds to ride up and have a relative power reading of 3.23 w/kg for that effort. What would this reading be for 5 seconds, 1 minute, 5 minutes and 1 hour of effort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully someone could help out :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6840" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T17:47:44.970" Title="Allen Coggan Table - Formula for a best fit to time frames" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;software&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15636" CreationDate="2013-05-06T05:26:55.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No need to a full suspesion - waste of good money on these trails, you need $2K to get one thats half decent - however if you have got $2.5K burning a hole in you pocket, full sus will be more comfortable.  A Hardtail MTB is built a little heavier than a hybrid, but in the end, I doubt very much it would make a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do is look at some cheap upgrades to your existing bike. Go to the biggest tires you can fit (Without going insane) 2&quot; would be good - rim width and frame cleance need to be considered. No only comfort, you might want to consider a shock seat post. These are a often considered &quot;poor mans softtail&quot;, but do not get the attention they deserve - they do take some of teh stress and shock loading off the frame and wheels. They are great for taking the small ( &amp;lt;25mm ) bumps on these kinds of trail while remaining seated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to go for a new bike, a quailty steel hardtail MTB or hybrid would be my pick (unless you can afford carbon or titanium), with low travel shocks (80mm, no more than 100). A 29er (29&quot; / 700C wheels) rolls better over the rough than 26&quot; and are ideal for these kinds of trails&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T05:26:55.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15643" CreationDate="2013-05-06T09:08:05.420" Score="2" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had my rear tire replaced at an -- admittedly shady -- bike shop, and now the upper part of the rear brake is rubbing against the lower part of the tire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaQw5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yellow dust on the picture results from the friction between the tire and the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the wheel is the same as before replacing the tire and the axis seems to be correctly centered:&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qyvqt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes are lowered as low as possible. I'm really at a loss here, so I'll be happy to hear any suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6845" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T12:08:30.313" Title="Rear brake rubs against the tire" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15634" CreationDate="2013-05-06T10:19:24.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be a bit harder to take off with tyre levers and a bit harder to put on if you notice at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6638" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T10:19:24.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15641" CreationDate="2013-05-06T12:08:30.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turned out it had nothing to do with changing the tire: the brakes were simply worn out. Solved by replacing the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6845" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T12:08:30.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15637" CreationDate="2013-05-06T16:42:16.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you are asking two different questions: the first, how to use Coggan's Power Profile; and the second, given power at one duration, how to extrapolate and predict power at other durations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But first, an historical aside: Coggan's Power Profiles pre-date the publication of his book with Hunter Allen so really should be thought of as Coggan's own. The Power Profile is an empirical summary: the top of each column is pegged to a &quot;world-class&quot; effort, the bottom of each column is pegged to a typical effort for an &quot;untrained&quot; but non-sedentary adult of normal health and fitness, and the range between the two were split into 40 equal-sized steps. The reason it was done this way is because Coggan lacked actual observed data on the true distribution of watts/kg in the population; he knew the top (=&quot;world-class&quot; or &quot;world-record&quot;) and he had a reasonable idea of the bottom but he didn't have a histogram of the actual percentages at each value of watts/kg in between. Importantly, the &quot;category labels&quot; were always considered to be just a labeling device to help readers understand the approximate levels -- Coggan had no specific data to support their semi-arbitrary assignment. In fact, in an early revision of the Power Profile Coggan removed the &quot;category labels&quot; because he felt that readers were mis-using them. There was great hue-and-cry and promises of good behavior and intelligent usage so he subsequently replaced the labels, though making them &quot;overlap&quot; rather than have sharp boundaries between categories as in his first edition. This is all preface to Coggan's intended and widely stated use of the Power Profiles: &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.trainingpeaks.com/articles/cycling/power-profiling.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;to identify relative strengths and weaknesses in a given rider's power&lt;/a&gt;. He intended that riders circle or highlight their watts/kg in each column, draw a connecting line between the highlighted values, then ignore the actual values and just look at the pattern described by the line. If the line sloped downward from left to right, it meant the rider was relatively stronger at short durations than at long, and either should work on &quot;bringing up the right&quot; or else exploit his (or, in later editions of the Profiles, her) skills as a sprinter. If the line was relatively flat, the rider was an &quot;all-rounder.&quot; Importantly, the line was based on &quot;best&quot; efforts at those durations which would not typically occur during the course of a single ride but rather be pieced together from specific efforts from several rides. All of the modern cycling analytical software products can &quot;extract&quot; the best 5 second, 1 minute, 5 minute, and 1 hour efforts from your data. Some products can do so for any arbitrary length of time, for example 495 seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the bottom line for the first part of your question is that if you climbed a hill at 3.23 watts/kg for 8 minutes 15 seconds, you shouldn't use the Power Profile as a way to predict your power at other durations. The Power Profile wasn't meant for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which brings us to the second question: how, then, would one go about predicting power at different durations given power at one duration? This is a very common question but a full answer is complicated. That said, a simple answer (and the one that Coggan himself might advise) is to go out and ride a different duration and see what you can do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full answer from a modeling point of view is complicated because we have mainly two different &quot;energy production pathways&quot; to help us produce power (commonly though inexactly) called the &quot;aerobic&quot; and &quot;anaerobic&quot; systems, and we each fatigue and renew at different rates. Therefore, you would need several parameters in order to characterize a particular individual's power-duration curve, and there would be some (potentially, a lot of) error in the estimation. In short, at a minimum, you would need estimates of the parameters for &quot;anaerobic&quot; capacity, &quot;aerobic&quot; capacity, the actual work over time that caused fatigue, and for recovery from fatigue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coggan has recently hinted at what may be an empirical, non-modeling, approach. He has recently claimed that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingforums.com/t/494491/converting-anaerobic-power-to-aerobic-endurance#post_4069201&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;if given an estimate of a rider's FTP (functional threshold power) he can produce an estimate to within 5% of the rider's steady-state power at durations from 2 minutes on up&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T17:47:44.970" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T17:47:44.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15634" CreationDate="2013-05-06T16:49:50.437" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot;&gt;chart&lt;/a&gt; that shows what width of tire fits on what rim based on the width of the rim. He also notes that people often exceed the recommended widths with no adverse effects. He also notes the possible problems with straying too far outside the recommended widths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that tire width measurements aren't well standardized. Much like shoe and clothing sizes, some manufacturers' sizes may run a bit large or a bit small. They're really more like guesstimates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is due to a couple of factors. Manufacturers are under market pressure to produce the lightest components possible. If they can shave off a few grams by calling a 24mm tire 23mm, they just might do that. There's also the fact that the rim width effects the overall inflated width of the tire. If one manufacturer is building a tire with the intent that it's mounted on 17mm rim and another builds the exact same tire but bases it on a 21mm rim, the resulting measurement will be different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two millimeters over the recommended maximum is probably still going to be just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T20:01:38.330" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T20:01:38.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15647" CreationDate="2013-05-07T01:03:30.363" Score="4" ViewCount="10159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen formulas to calculate chain length for multi-speed bikes, but I need something for single speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&#xA;42T Chainring&#xA;17T Cog&#xA;406mm (16&quot;) Chainstay Length&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer in this case should come to ~94L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6855" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T09:30:20.490" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T09:30:20.490" Title="Formula to calculate Single Speed Chain Length from Chainring Size, Cog Size, and Chainstay Length" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;math&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15646" CreationDate="2013-05-07T05:31:48.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scroll to the bottom, equation is there, you want the &quot;Rigorous Equation&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better solution: start with heltonbiker's question on the math stack and ask how to convert to chain length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T05:31:48.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2467" CreationDate="2013-05-07T08:52:59.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've suffered the same &quot;spooked by downhills&quot; terror. The best thing I've read is to...&#xA;...stay in a near-seated position but don’t actually sit on the saddle. Weigh the balls of your feet for agility.&#xA;I've been keeping my weight on the seat and sitting further back on my seat. Yesterday I kept the weight in my pedals - 80 to 90% of my weight I reckon - and it was soooo much better! I've still got a little bit of the spooks about changing road surfaces, etc. But the extra stability gained by this correct weighting is enough to let me see that I can now get over this.&#xA;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6858" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T08:52:59.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-07T11:38:44.637" Score="7" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am from Mumbai, India. And as some of you might be knowing, it is a pretty crazy traffic on roads here. Many times, it so happens that trucks, cars etc. may force you to get off the road while you are riding (there might be other reasons like dogs, children playing, cows etc.) And that drops you to a level about 3-10 cm lower from the main road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, whenever one tries to get back on the road, climbing 3-10 cm road height, while being parallel to the road, almost surely makes the bike skid and makes rider fall (head in the traffic position). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is worse when it is 'mumbai-rain' raining! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting off the bicycle - climbing back on road - riding, can't be a solution. Traffic is way too crazy to allow you doing that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride Trek marlin 29er, But I have put slick (700c-35) tires on it, so it doesn't have good grip sideways. And many of my friends ride locally made cheap bikes, which certainly-certainly do not have good grip on the road whatsoever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are the techniques one should use for this kind of problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5594" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T19:12:05.090" Title="How to get back on the road again?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15649" CreationDate="2013-05-07T12:53:32.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The situation you describe is critical, but when conditions allow, I would suggest you a technique I developed exactely for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The secret is to &quot;ride the wall&quot; as you were in the tilted section of a velodrome, that is, making a curve with your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most falls I have seen or heard, or even almost had myself, are caused by making a curve to the left while trying to climb the ramp sloped towards the other side. That makes the front tire skid if the step is steep, or if the surface is somewhat slippery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, the trick is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go as far as you can from the main road, on the side lane;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn left (assuming a right-sided traffic) and start getting closer to the road edge;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About half-way, straighten the bike and START TO TURN RIGHT, in an &quot;S&quot; shaped trajectory;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you climb the road edge, you will be turning right, then you &quot;ride the wall&quot; and by the end of the turn you'll be already up the road shoulder, going parallel to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;centrifugal force&quot;, and the leaning of the bike, will prevent your tire from slipping. Of course this depends on actual conditions (rain, traffic, road height) at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2013-05-07T19:06:54.523" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T19:06:54.523" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15242" CreationDate="2013-05-07T20:00:25.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also important to note that you should wear cycling gloves and change hand positions often. Proper bike measurements will ensure that force is evenly applied amongst the saddle, pedals, and handlebars, but there's still a risk of hand numbness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6864" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T20:00:25.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15619" CreationDate="2013-05-07T22:07:47.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is also with noting that there will be diminished returnson both . As your body gets used to one exercise it will become more efficient at performing it. So eventually one activity will be better than another. You might consider cross training and doing both on different days so your body does not get used to one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T22:07:47.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15656" CreationDate="2013-05-07T23:45:41.463" Score="9" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just broke a spoke and this is the fourth spoke I've broken in the last 12 months.  This one was very puzzling because it came at the very end of an easy 30 mile (48 km) ride.  I was pedaling very slowly into my driveway when it snapped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All four have been on the drive side of the rear wheel.  This is a Specialized Allez, one year old, with factory wheels.  I weigh 175 lbs (79 kg) and ride about 2000 miles (3218 km) per year.  Just recreational riding on good road surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an abnormal rate of breakage?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if it is an abnormal rate of breakage, what should I do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the wheel into the LBS today. They didn't seem surprised by 4 broken spokes in a year, but everyone else is, so I'm going with everyone else. The mechanic checked the tension and they were all correct with one slight exception, so that's not the issue. The wheels are factory wheels and not exactly top flight. The spokes are 1.2 mm rather than 2 mm, so pretty thin. And they're 28 spokes per wheel, so that's cutting it even thinner from what I can gather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebuilding the wheels is $125 each, so that's just not worth it. I can find much better wheels for not much more, so I'm on Amazon looking at wheels while trying not to deplete my life savings. (What some people will pay for wheels boggles the mind.)  I'll have them fix the spoke and check the tensioning so I can sell them and ride until I get replacements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gotta buy the tools and learn to replace spokes and true wheels....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T04:29:55.510" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T18:46:43.680" Title="Is this an abnormal rate of spoke breakage?" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15623" CreationDate="2013-05-08T00:30:18.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://hembrow.eu/personal/howtorideabike.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article particularly enlightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short takeaway is that balance is the most important thing (before direction)  Keep going until the balance is good and everything else will follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife and I are discussing at the moment the best time to get our kids onto balance bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="396" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T00:30:18.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15574" CreationDate="2013-05-08T00:38:56.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never have &quot;snake bites&quot; in my road or ATB tubes and I've been riding for over 40 years. When you install a new tube, make sure the rim strip is centered. Coat the new tube and the inside of the tire with baby powder (talc, not cornstarch). Inflate the tube to about 30 psi. Deflate. (This removes any pinches.) Inflate to the max and ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6867" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T00:38:56.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15653" CreationDate="2013-05-08T06:23:01.683" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, as the comments pointed out, this is abnormal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would make the attempt to take the wheel back to the LBS where you bought the bike. The might be able to work with Specialized and get the wheel replaced completely. Once at the LBS, have the mechanic inspect for any external factors (derailleur strikes, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they can't get it replaced, then I would either: (1) have the wheel completely rebuilt replacing at a minimum the spokes but taking a good look at the rim once it's disassembled...as noted in the comments, it might be warped; or (2) buy a new wheel. Having it rebuilt can often be pretty pricey and you can get a decent wheel these days for a couple hundred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T06:23:01.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15661" CreationDate="2013-05-08T12:00:14.713" Score="9" ViewCount="864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing road cycling, on hills, over long distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically at the moment, I'll do two 30-40 mile evening rides in just under 2 hours. Generally either 50ft per mile climb or 100ft per mile climb. These are fine and even going straight from work, with just water, I'm fine energy wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Sunday's are long ride days, typically 5-8 hours of cycling over 70-100 miles, typically with 100ft per mile climb ratio or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride with a guy 5 years older than me with one year more cycling training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, he rarely needs to eat on the ride, and he'll manage with a few gels and his energy drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas, I'll have chugged 1-2 litres of chocolate milk, four rounds of bread (in the form of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches), a (big) bag of minstrels (yeah, jelly babies are better, but, I loathe them). PLUS the energy drinks and gels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always had 'issues' with blood sugar crashes if I don't eat enough on a regular day. I seem to burn it fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to help re-train my metabolism to work better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fitness wise, my RHR is around 54bpm, my MHR is 192 (based on highest garmin logged figure), my BMI is bang on 22. The guy I ride with has an RHR of 46, has peaked his MHR at 199 and is probably (though I've never asked) about right on his BMI too. So yes, the fact I can't hold pace with him is because he has an edge fitnesswise, but we have a 'system' of him not waiting for me when I start to drop on the hills, so he's still setting PRs, but still doesn't need to load the calories like me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that my body stores energy in the form of glycogen in my muscles, and it's this supply that is burned first, followed by converting fat to use or any fast carbs I take in. And I'm eating a good amount of carbs for storing up the energy. Saturday night is typically a big pasta trough and a big bowl of porridge before I ride. The guy I ride with on the other hand is gluten intolerant and not taking pains to carb load. And often turns up hung over too. Just to rub it in :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fitness is clearly improving, I'm constantly moving on my PRs etc, however, I'm just not getting more 'efficient'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means I'm carrying more weight in food which won't help me keep the pace will it: ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastEditorUserId="6769" LastEditDate="2013-05-08T14:18:02.347" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T12:22:26.163" Title="Improving metabolic efficiency" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15598" CreationDate="2013-05-08T12:08:06.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain compatibility will depend on your cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two road bikes, one is a 9-speed Shimano, the other a 10 speed shimano. I also have an MTB. The MTB chain is considerably thicker and the cassette on the MTB considerably more spaced out allowing room for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My MTB chain would not fit either of my road bikes for that reason, it could not sit on a single cog on the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not buy a chain unless it was specifically compatible with my cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T12:08:06.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15289" CreationDate="2013-05-08T12:51:59.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I still can't find my working three speed hub, but from memory, and from trying a working five speed, then as far as I can tell from the gif, that's normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T12:51:59.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15657" CreationDate="2013-05-08T14:55:21.793" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know or heard about this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;strong&gt;chocolate is good for ATP production&lt;/strong&gt;. That is, without having to store fat. But, chocolate doesn't need to contain sugar, ok? The original chocolate is naturally sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, it is said that having always a bottle of &lt;strong&gt;water mixed with vinegar&lt;/strong&gt; is great to recover strength as well as refreshing in heavy duty tasks. This is an old biker habit. Vinegar also replaces sugar at the creation of energy cell-cycle. But you shouldn't abuse with it. Just a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember that &lt;strong&gt;breathing is an important part of the burning metabolism&lt;/strong&gt;. So improve it's rhythm &amp;amp; frequency.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6869" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T14:55:21.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15657" CreationDate="2013-05-08T15:10:52.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is burning too much carbs/glycogen and not enough fat, since you body has an essentially unlimited supply of the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How? One step is to eat more fat and less carbs. That trains your body to burn more fat. &lt;a href=&quot;http://triathlon.competitor.com/2012/06/nutrition/inside-triathlon-magazine-fat-burning-machine_31034&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; also suggests pushing your limits on how far you can go without eating, as a way to train your body to need less. Another point is that you burn more carbs (vs. fat) at higher levels of effort. Do enough training at low effort, and your body will get used to using fat. That's the idea behind &lt;a href=&quot;https://philmaffetone.com/method/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phil Maffetone's training philosophy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6785" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2020-10-13T12:22:26.163" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T12:22:26.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15459" CreationDate="2013-05-08T16:11:58.500" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traffic laws are a way of communication with the others that share the lane. When I find myself riding in a dangerous situation, I normally start what I call defensive riding. &#xA;My point is that the bicycle driver is the last safe driver at the road. So, the driving rules do not protect them as they should. This depends on the country. And of course, of the way that the citizens care about bicycle riders...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to make yourself visible to the other drivers. So, dress with a reflective suit. That would also, protect you from dust and other things that might happen during the ride. And specially, to direct the drivers' vision to yourself preventing accidents. At night, wearing lights would also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where space is not available for bike riders, I use to drive at the opposite lane. Yes, it sounds crazy, but consider that I could watch all the vehicles that are approaching and take measures beforehand. There, rules change. I am not only standing away of the driver's rules but I have to acknowledge that nobody is expecting to find me coming from that direction. I should then, be very cautious at every corner or at any change of the normal lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing all that, I find it safer than letting other cars and buses crush me like a sandwich because the are not watching when I am passing by. Or cars that use the power of their engines to do big accelerations compared with my small efforts when lights change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People should consider bicycles for normal driving. And make special driving rules for bicycles that would allow a fair competition on the road shared with more powerful vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6869" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T16:11:58.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15672" CreationDate="2013-05-08T18:07:39.227" Score="13" ViewCount="22891" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with the so-called back-pedal brake, but since it's for someone who's learning I think that it's more an obstacle than an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the bike also has hand-actioned brakes, can I remove the back-pedal braking effect without replacing the wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3374" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T18:35:50.973" LastActivityDate="2017-03-18T16:01:37.240" Title="Disabling back-pedal brake" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;modification&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15614" CreationDate="2013-05-08T18:14:45.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I had this problem, I pulled the cranks and bottom bracket off, cleaned them, then greased them liberally while putting it all back together. This fixed my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T18:14:45.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15653" CreationDate="2013-05-08T18:21:14.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is happening on the drive side, it would leave me to believe the spokes are loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the spoke tensioning and overall wheel dishing; the wheel might be out of true with the spoke tension out of whack. They shouldn't have to rebuild the whole wheel; they should be able to test and inspect the wheel rather easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it keeps happening, one of the connectors the spokes are linking to the rim with might be faulty causing a different spoke to hold the brunt of the drive force. You could feel around on the spokes pushing of pinching to see if you notice an difference in tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6244" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T18:21:14.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15649" CreationDate="2013-05-08T19:12:05.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's rather easy to lift the front wheel onto a higher surface, so the problem boils down to how do you lift the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution seems to be a variant of a bunny-hop, but this might be too technical (I can't do it) or dangerous (if I could do it with 90% probability, I'd never try that in heavy traffic). What I do instead is putting a foot briefly on the road to unweigh the rear wheel. This only works at low speed, but it's still much better than stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T19:12:05.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15665" CreationDate="2013-05-08T21:03:52.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you most likely have is an old-fashioned coaster brake, along with a hand brake.  In reality the coaster brake is probably more &quot;natural&quot; for someone learning -- the hand brake is mostly an affectation designed to make the bike appeal more to boys (of all ages).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is possible to disassemble the rear hub and disable the brake in most cases.  There are 3-4 different mechanisms used, so it's impossible to give you detailed instructions, but it would be apparent to anyone with sufficient mechanical aptitude.  (But note that the rear hub, in addition to being very greasy inside, contains lots of little parts, and reassembly requires some skill.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T21:03:52.997" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2013-05-08T22:03:48.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just told by my LBS that both my front tire AND wheel we're on backwards.  My tire (Vredestein Triforzza) has a slight diagonal sipe (but no arrow on the sidewall).  My wheel's decal was upside down.  I said &quot;OK, but the wheel is symmetrical so what difference does it make?&quot;. The mechanic said the cones in the hub are designed to rotate in one direction and may loosen over time if the wheel is installed backwards.  I was experiencing speed wobble.  I hope this fixes it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6876" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T22:03:48.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15606" CreationDate="2013-05-09T08:06:29.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a triple front chainring, then you will probably need to change the front derailleur. But looking at the Giant specs, it shows a double, so you might be able to get away with relying on the end stops (and worst case using two clicks on a shifter designed for three rings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/upgrade-gears.html#frontderailers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/upgrade-gears.html#frontderailers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Although rear indexing is consistent within a brand, Shimano's front indexing is different between their so-called &quot;road&quot; and &quot;mountain&quot; lines. Here's what that means in practice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters for drop (&quot;road&quot;) handlebars only index properly with &quot;road&quot; front derailers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters for upright (&quot;mountain&quot;) handlebars only index properly with &quot;mountain&quot; front derailers.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T08:06:29.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15614" CreationDate="2013-05-09T12:25:00.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess: &lt;strong&gt;Dirt between the rim and the spoke nipple&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My story: My road bike began to crack last &lt;strong&gt;winter&lt;/strong&gt; when I &lt;strong&gt;rode slower&lt;/strong&gt; than usual because of the ice sheet on the streets. I could locate to cracking to come from the rear of the bike and determined it to originate from the &lt;strong&gt;rear wheel&lt;/strong&gt;, because it appeared with almost constant frequency &lt;strong&gt;while coasting, too&lt;/strong&gt;. I got my bike to the do-it-yourself bike repair shop of my university and stated my cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory: One fellow road bike owner gave me the tip that because of the &lt;strong&gt;low temperatures and differing thermal expansion&lt;/strong&gt; of the rim and the spoke, some &lt;strong&gt;play&lt;/strong&gt; may appear at the spoke nipple. With this &lt;strong&gt;small scale motion&lt;/strong&gt;, dirt may get in between the rim and the spoke nipple, causing &lt;strong&gt;loud cracking under the high tension and torsion&lt;/strong&gt;. This explains, why the dirt got in there in the cold season (temperature induced play), why it appeared at low speeds (more load on the individual spoke) and especially when cornering sharply (high torsion especially on the rear wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution: Some &lt;strong&gt;lubricant capable of creep (like WD40) applied to the spoke nipple&lt;/strong&gt; and into the rim will allow the dirt to be pushed aside from the spoke nipple and into the rim where it does not bother anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4107" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T12:25:00.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15598" CreationDate="2013-05-09T13:57:54.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the &quot;approved&quot; chain is probably better if all else is equal, and it may be worth a slightly increased cost for more peace of mind. If you already have the mountain-specific chain, there's no harm in trying it. And if the mountain-specific chain is far cheaper and you aren't picky about shifting performance, it will probably be adequate (but no guarantees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;mountain bike specific construction&quot; of the HG-X chains seems to be as follows (quotes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.performancebike.com/2011/03/01/spin-doctor-tech-tip-shimano-and-campagnolo-chains/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Performance Bike&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highonbikes.com/drivetrain/chains-mtb/shimano-deore-xt-hg94-10-speed-mtb-road-bike-chain.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;High on Bikes&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003YPBBRY&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-components/2013-shimano--xt-dyna-sys-cn-hg94-chain-7879.23.1.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Competitive Cyclist&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Dyna-Sys chains have 4 different types of outer plates that facilitate shifting up &amp;amp; down on the cassette or between chainrings.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;HG-X Chain uses a directional design with specifically shaped inner and outer plates to optimise shifting over the chainset and cassette. Outer plate design has been developed to reduce the chance of chain suck. The inner plate has been developed for better contact with gears providing smoother shifting under high load, giving efficient pedalling, increased rigidity and near silent running.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Open design of inner links increase mud shedding ability.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Mushrooming of the pins gives unsurpassed side-plate retention, enabling the chain to far exceed the BS/ISO standard for breaking force.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Chain is optimised for Shimano 10-speed HG-X MTB drivetrains only.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Advanced pin riveting technology yields same strength as 9-speed Hollow-pin technology for lightweight Mud-shedding, off-road-specific design.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Since the action of climbing up the ramps and pins from one chainring to another is slightly different from climbing up one cog to the next, Shimano chose to shape the left and right side plates differently to optimize the chain for each specific purpose.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the prevelance of the words &quot;optimized performance&quot; in product descriptions, I would conclude that using the &quot;wrong&quot; chain may affect performance, but it wouldn't cause failure. This conclusion is bolstered by this report from a user who switched from HG-X to a non-Shimano chain (the opposite direction of what you're intending):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Shifting under load up hills with the Connex is slightly less smooth than with Shimano's HGX chain, but it works just fine.  I'd say it's the same as Shimano's non-HGX chains or any other good top end chain.  This is for sure a nit-picky difference.&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rocksandirt.blogspot.com/2012/04/when-to-replace-your-chain.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cris LaBossiere&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you'll never know for sure until you try it on your own bike and judge it by your own standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T13:57:54.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15555" CreationDate="2013-05-09T14:37:34.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are likely a few different reasons, but my primary suspicion would be fit. Presumably your road bike is set up to fit your body geometry and angles, where the spin bike is not. Small differences in how a bike is set up can have a big impact on how your body feels while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My n=1 example, when doing higher intensity efforts on the road, I would get high calf cramps after about an hour. When I had a Retul fit done for my time trial bike, the fitter told me that because my feet were somewhat duckfooted, I needed to move to speedplay pedals with longer spindles to allow my heels to drift inward more than my old pedals. Solved my calf cramp problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T14:37:34.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-09T15:56:03.433" Score="9" ViewCount="7595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an old-time bike rider who commuted to grad school every day for 3 years on a bicycle.  Then after a 20+-year-long hiatus, started riding again with my son.  I cannot figure out the fitting on the modern pumps.  I can get some air in, but after several cases of the thing flying off or making an embarrassing leaking, whoosh sound with every stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Are pumps with the  old-style, screw-on fittings available anywhere anymore?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Is there a good reason I should appreciate the new fitting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6883" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T17:28:10.863" Title="What happened to pumps?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15678" CreationDate="2013-05-09T16:24:35.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good quality pump will rarely have issues like this.  You may have a very cheap pump, or you may have a pump which is designed for one of the other valve styles available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few threaded valve fittings, mostly on fairly high end pumps.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lezyne.com/products/floor-pumps/high-pressure#!CNC-Floor-Drive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lezyne&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.syncros.com/syncros/us/en/products/2283470010/floor-pump-syncros-fp10-anthracite/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scott Sports (Syncros)&lt;/a&gt; both make good pumps with threaded fittings which fit the 2 main valve types on European and US bike styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nztos.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T22:10:36.360" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T22:10:36.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-09T17:43:52.897" Score="3" ViewCount="5825" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my bike on a stand yesterday and decided to check the rear wheel for any issues. I then noticed this squeaking noise coming from the rear hub. It happens regardless of whether I am pedalling or not, and the intensity varies with speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A video of it can be found here: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/KmGIFQ6YtfM?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the causes of this noise and is this something that needs to be looked at by a bike shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="210" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T03:13:38.270" Title="Squeaky rear wheel when rotating" Tags="&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15684" CreationDate="2013-05-09T18:36:11.167" Score="1" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear axle broke about 2 weeks ago, and I replaced it with a new one.&#xA;I also replaced the ball bearings with new ones when I did this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I am having is when I'm going with a higher speed the rear hub is making some sounds as if there would be some friction there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I mounted the axle I tightener the cones so that the axle wouldn't wobble.&#xA;If I loosen the cones a bit it starts to wobble a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you suggest I do in order to get rid of the noise? Should I try to let the axle a bit more loose?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4259" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T21:28:21.170" Title="Bicycle rear hub sounding weird" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15678" CreationDate="2013-05-09T20:07:08.447" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main standards:  Schrader and Presta.  Schrader is the standard auto tire valve, while Presta is thinner and has a little knurled knob on top.  Schader is relatively straight-forward to use while Presta requires a little finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most newer &quot;floor pump&quot; valves are &quot;agnostic&quot; and will fit either style without conversion, but some require flipping a gasket over inside the chuck or some such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Floor pumps generally have a flip-lever valve where you press the valve on, then flip the lever up to lock the valve on.  Sometimes, if the tire is flat, you may need to press your thumb into the tire on the back side of the valve to keep the valve from sliding into the rim as you push the chuck on -- if you don't then the chuck doesn't get on far enough.  Plus on some valves you may need to adjust the chuck by tightening a knurled fitting on the chuck, to compensate for gasket wear, etc.  And of course there are cheap pumps that won't work regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presta can be a little tricky.  You need to unscrew the knurled knob ALL THE WAY, then press the chuck on.  And I like to tap the unscrewed knob once to free the internal seal from its seat -- sometimes they stick, making it hard to get air in.  When you're finished filling a Presta, just tighten the knob barely finger tight, so as to not unnecessarily deform the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T20:07:08.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15682" CreationDate="2013-05-09T21:28:21.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/cone-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. The QR skewer when done up increases the bearing pre-load. Correct bearing adjustment requires a slight wobble when the wheel is off the bike, which stops when the wheel is installed and the QR Skewer done up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a bit of trial an error getting it right for the first few times.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be incorrect bearing size - are you sure you used the correct bearings? - or the broken axle may have caused damaged the hub bearing faces - did you check those before assembly?. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T21:28:21.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-10T09:18:31.490" Score="4" ViewCount="3663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally cycle on a cycle path and I struggle to go over 10Mph on my bike for any distance. My Daily commute took me 58 to 42 minutes depending on how much I push myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning and yesterday evening I decided I'd try to cycle on the road rather than the path. The distance is only 0.2 miles shorter by road but it only took me 34 minutes because I was travelling at 10 to 14 Mph most of the time sometimes faster on hills. I had to stop at more traffic lights but it still took a heck of a lot less time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea why this happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a mountain bike with Semi slick tyres if that makes any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T00:45:43.473" Title="Why is cycling on a road so much faster than cycling on a cycle path?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15685" CreationDate="2013-05-10T09:29:19.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you know your own body, the route and the climatic conditions very well we can try and rule out variations in these - however I would suggest that this sort of variation can be very dependent on conditions. Think we have a few questions on this, even including air temperature and pressure effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we do rule them out, a contributing factor can be the surface - cycle paths are often a different, rougher, surface than roads, and this can increase your rolling resistance considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how close to the road route does the path follow? This could cause a difference, depending on your optimum power output and the gradients of the road and path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T09:29:19.140" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15685" CreationDate="2013-05-10T10:18:37.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, cycle paths aren't really set up for cyclists! They seem to be arranged by planners more interested in meeting targets for miles of cycleway. They are also aimed more at leisure cycling than for people who want to use their bike to go places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the problems that I find in the South East of England is that the cycle paths often take away the normal rights of way that apply to road users. In particular they share pavements so pedestrians are getting in the way and you have to give way when you cross side roads (as opposed to having right of way as a road user).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T10:18:37.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15691" CreationDate="2013-05-10T10:30:35.023" Score="3" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find silver, black and occasionally red are quite dull colour choices. Granted there are some components out there in more interesting colours, but the engineer in me won't let me choose the &quot;wrong&quot; component simply because it looks pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering what the options are for colouring metallic components, chainring bolts, brake levers, etc, at home. I suspect painting wouldn't look quite right and in the case of bolts, might cause things to get stuck or flake off in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about anodysing? Is it something that can be done safely at home without too much risk of ruining the component? Does anyone have experience of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T10:14:23.233" Title="DIY colouring components" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15685" CreationDate="2013-05-10T12:19:40.157" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the same day and the same rider and otherwise equal conditions, riding on a tarmac road vs riding on a gravel cycle path, the road will be faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about the rolling resistance of the surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blog.ultracycle.net/2010/05/cycling-power-calculations&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; gives a good breakdown of the physics involved in working out how much power you need based on various inputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But basically, a rougher surface offers more rolling resistance to your bike tyres, so you need to put more power in to sustain the same speed. Given you're likely to put out a constant power (since we're assuming identical rider and conditions) on both track and road, since there is less resistance, you'll go faster on the road, the 'spare' power will come out as speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given identical surface, then you have to look at what else is different in the route. There's a 0.2 mile difference in distance, but, what's the ascent and average gradient of both routes? Plot them on bikehike.co.uk (or the mapping tool of your choice) and see what the difference is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A local route to me on the Trans-Penine Trail turns out to be a 2% gradient, though it looks flat, on gravel. The road route near by has some sharp hills, but has downhill segments and a much smoother surface, so is faster on my MTB and far faster on my road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on the road are could be benefiting from the drafting effect of cars possibly, whereas on the cycle trail you might be cutting the air yourself, that can account for a 20% energy saving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, for now, there's always the right of way, if you're having to slow on the cycle trail to negotiate slower cyclists or other route users, whereas on the road you're the slow thing people are moving round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastEditorUserId="6769" LastEditDate="2013-05-10T14:19:30.153" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T14:19:30.153" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15788" CreationDate="2013-05-10T12:44:46.497" Score="5" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general there are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High clamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low clamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braze on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top pull&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom pull  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in particular, is any of those better choice regarding reliability and durability for touring bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T12:19:51.017" Title="Are there mechanical advantages and disadvantages of various front derailleur styles?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15688" CreationDate="2013-05-10T13:06:00.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are  Powder-Coating kits that are made for home use. They are available in the U.S. from Sears-Craftsman, The Eastwood Company and others. They range in price from under $200 to as much as you want to spend. The process involves using the supplied gun to apply a colored dry powder to the part. The part is then baked in a household oven. The baking cures the powder to something similar in appearance to a ceramic glaze. It is a very durable finish. It does create some issues though. It cannot be touched up if damaged. The coating is thicker than paint. Threaded holes and close tolerence mating surfaces must be protected during the process. Of course you could only color components that can have all their plastic parts removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2013-05-11T10:14:23.233" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T10:14:23.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15678" CreationDate="2013-05-10T13:58:33.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answers so far seem to concentrate on floor pumps, but what I haven't seen recently is a full length &lt;em&gt;frame&lt;/em&gt; pump that uses a hose connector. But 20+ years ago, that was fairly standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend getting a floor pump for regularly keeping tyres topped up, but you still need a pump to take on the bike in case of a flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want an old style pump, Google finds me the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zefal.com/en/traditional-pumps/110-lapize.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zefal Lapize&lt;/a&gt;, but a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/tools/cycling-tools/frame-fit-pumps/product/review-zefal-lapize-10-39442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;couple&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/review/17764-zefal-lapize-pump&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reviews&lt;/a&gt; are unenthusiastic, and suggest that the retro style is the only real reason to consider it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a more compact style, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps/racerocket_hp_sl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak RaceRocket&lt;/a&gt; has a hose connection that fits both main valve types. Topeak also make some &quot;mini-floor&quot; style compact pumps with hoses, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Morph-Pumps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Morph range&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For pumps without a hose :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As with the floor pumps, make sure the head is set for your valve type, which might mean unscrewing it, swapping some bits, and putting it back together, might mean picking the right one of two holes, or it might just always work with both. (Or, worst case, it only works with one type, and it's not the type you have.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust any rubber sealing washer in the head to lightly grip the valve when you push the head on, then grip firmly when you press the locking lever in the right direction. (Some cheap nasty pumps have no lever and need the compressing ring tightened while the pump is in place. Some heads without levers you can get the grip just right to push on against a bit of resistance and stay on without adjusting.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the pump barrel at right angles to the valve while pumping. Gripping some spokes of your wheel with the same hand that is holding the pump head can help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T13:58:33.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17201" CreationDate="2013-05-10T14:02:11.360" Score="4" ViewCount="868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a new frame that supports &lt;code&gt;Direct Mount&lt;/code&gt;. Now I read that &lt;code&gt;Bottom Swing&lt;/code&gt; is preferable for hardtails. At the same time, it was also mentioned that &lt;code&gt;Bottom Swing&lt;/code&gt; is mounted higher onto the saddle tube than &lt;code&gt;Top Swing&lt;/code&gt;. Are there two versions of &lt;code&gt;Direct Mount&lt;/code&gt; to accomodate these few centimeters height difference, or do the top and bottom swing &quot;Direct Mount&quot; front derailleurs position their &quot;Direct Mount&quot; screws at different heights internally, so that I don't have to worry about compatibility? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T22:13:37.920" Title="Direct Mount with top and bottom swing?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-10T18:53:19.777" Score="6" ViewCount="3912" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike's two years old (about 1800km on it, almost all road and bridleway) and kept in a garage. Back in November or so I locked the front suspension fork for road-riding, and over the winter probably did about 50 miles in short ~7 mile jaunts. A couple of weeks ago I tried to unlock my forks, and while the lockout lever moves ok, the forks appear to remain locked; they absolutely refuse to budge even a mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not had my forks serviced to date. The dealer is saying its because I had the forks locked for several months and neglected to have them serviced. It has always worked quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; the fork is a &quot;Merida M-510, 100 mm, LO&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mbike.ru/bikes2005/matts_miami.html&quot;&gt;This looks like it&lt;/a&gt;) - although google finds nothing on that, so I guess its a rebranded something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question - what's likely happened to the forks? Is it something I can fix (and how?)? Is it likely to be a manufacturing defect? And of course, does locking for a long time (even if unused for most of that time) cause issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I've read the questions on here about fork maintenance; none of them mention locking for prolonged periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6889" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T12:48:46.403" Title="Suspension fork - Can you leave them locked for a long time?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9225" CreationDate="2013-05-11T00:11:05.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not about time, it's about staying consistent on the ride. Pack carbs, and electrolytes. No protein. You want to digest easily. No heavy solids..you need blood in your legs, not in your stomach. Start drinking 15 min. into ride. begin eating with 30 min..hungry or not. Once you get behind, you stay behind. It's 50 miles, not a 100. Just ride it and learn for next time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6891" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T00:11:05.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-11T00:40:44.403" Score="4" ViewCount="1580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a 6ft, 172 pound being. Just moved to boston and now that the weather is better, I am looking for a bike which I can use for my daily office commute (around 3ish mile one way). I am willing to spend around 350-500$. Rather than relying on some random bike store's recommendation, I would ask here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open to all recommendations, road/hybrid bikes, fixie/geared, etc. Am a casual biker, but am capable of assembling/servicing the bike if need be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road conditions: apart from the cracks and some rough roads of boston, should to good. No off-roading with this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goods: Will have a backpack, laptop and some minor stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purpose: Commuting and pleasure riding on weekends, nothing competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Folding bike: Don't see any use of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6892" LastEditorUserId="6892" LastEditDate="2013-05-11T14:12:16.750" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T08:34:49.417" Title="Bike recommendation for daily commute" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15696" CreationDate="2013-05-11T05:05:28.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For only 3 miles, I would find a used, steel framed, no suspension mountain bike that you can put some slick road tires on there.  And if you're in Boston, go have a chat with these nice folks about your needs and you can learn to fix it, too!  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bikesnotbombs.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bikes Not Bombs&lt;/a&gt; has been around since forever.  Once you have put a couple months into into commuting, throw down the money for a new ride after you have first-hand experience to know your riding prefence.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6894" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T05:05:28.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15125" CreationDate="2013-05-11T05:10:24.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here you go, VeloOrange has a part for that: &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/shifting-freewheels-cassettes/parts-maintenance/vo-grand-cru-sealed-bearing-universal-jockey-wheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/shifting-freewheels-cassettes/parts-maintenance/vo-grand-cru-sealed-bearing-universal-jockey-wheels.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6894" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T05:10:24.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15702" CreationDate="2013-05-11T17:41:06.110" Score="1" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to cycle a lot, and decided to try taking it back up after last year's Olympics.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it feels like almost every time I try to go out for a ride I nearly get taken out by someone passing far too close and giving no warning.  As I'm partially sighted this is particularly terrifying.  I can spot things ahead of me with plenty of time to avoid nasty incidents if I keep my concentration up, but that leaves me less aware of what's going on behind me, and I can't see well enough to pick out number plates if I need to report someone.  I also rely on hearing to detect cars coming up but when the traffic is heavier I can't pick out individual cars over the general background roar of traffic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in a full time job and pay my taxes just like everyone else, I've every right to be on the road.  But drivers, either through ignorance or malice are making me feel very unwelcome on the roads.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea of quitting to me is galling because like I said, I have every right to be on the road, and I can see well enough to avoid getting into trouble provided the people coming up behind me don't act like morons.  But I also don't want to end up dead.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you got any advice for me?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in the Greater Manchester area&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T14:11:32.013" Title="Thinking of quitting due to dangerous driving" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-05-14T23:43:01.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15696" CreationDate="2013-05-11T17:43:11.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the added details in the question, I'd probably agree with @tommy_o's answer and @armb's comment, but would also say this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you do not currently ride and are looking to start. If this is the case, I wouldn't be tempted to spend too much money first time around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you need to spend enough to be comfortable that what you buy is not going to fall apart. But beyond that, your scenario will probably go one of three ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll end up using the bike just for commuting. In which case 30 miles a week is not heavy use and you don't need any kind of special bike, you just need some tlc every now and again, so there's no point spending lots of money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll end up riding the bike while the sun shines, then leaving it in the garage when its cold or wet or you're running late or you just don't feel like it today. Eventually it'll live in the garage, growing cobwebs and rust. In this case obviously any money you spent on the bike in the first place is lost, so there's not much point spending a lot in the first place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The third option is the most interesting, and this is what happened to me. You'll use the bike for commuting and will enjoy it so much that you'll start using it more and more at weekends. And as you cycle more, so you will develop tastes, for example for road cycling or off-roading, trails etc. And its very possible that you'll want to get yourself a bike that is more appropriate for your taste. But of course the difference between then and now is that what the time comes, you'll know exactly what type of bike you want and you won't need anyone else's opinion, least of all a bunch of strangers on SE. So again, I'd buy a cheaper bike now, just one that does the job, with a possible view to buying another bike as and when want to take that next step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By way of example, the bike that got me back into cycling, I bought from a local bike shop who were having a clearout. It was a reputable make, had a Shimano groupset, but beyond that was nothing special (and frankly I wouldn't have known if it was!). It was old even when I bought it new. Cost me just under GBP100 (USD150ish). So not a massive investment. And I used it for commuting roughly the same distance as you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After two years of commuting I'd had great use out of the bike, it had paid for itself many times over, but I was ready for something better. In my case it was a no-brainer to upgrade to a fixie - not even a second thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-05-11T17:54:12.433" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T17:54:12.433" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15700" CreationDate="2013-05-11T18:08:23.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All you say is absolutely true, the rest of us just put up with it I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here's a suggestion that's specific to where you live - if you want to get back on the bike, how about heading for the velodrome? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nationalcyclingcentre.com/t/velodrome-track&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nationalcyclingcentre.com/t/velodrome-track&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this would depend just how good your sight is, but this is something I've discovered over the last 6 months (not at Manchester but at Calshot on the south coast). Very exhilarating and of course no traffic to contend with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T18:08:23.740" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15700" CreationDate="2013-05-11T18:34:13.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dft.gov.uk/bikeability/the-three-levels/cycling-skills-for-adults/&quot;&gt;training&lt;/a&gt;. This will cover things like correct road positioning, which can make a big difference to how other road users interact with you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try quieter routes or cycling at different times of day when there is less traffic around. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net/&quot;&gt;cycle route planner&lt;/a&gt; will help with routes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to find other people to cycle with. Cycling in a group is much less intimidating, but even one other person should make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I use a mirror which helps to keep track of what's behind me. I don't know if that would work for someone who is partially sighted, but it's probably worth trying.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth remembering that the majority of cycling accidents occur at junctions. It's relatively rare for a car to drive into the back of the cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T18:34:13.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2013-05-11T19:24:13.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put a bit of white plumber's tape over the end of the tube before you put the cap back on. It will make the glue last for serveral seasons without drying up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6897" LastActivityDate="2013-05-11T19:24:13.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15572" CreationDate="2013-05-12T00:32:55.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if you're referring to specifically road riding, but most of the comments have been mostly related to street situations.  If you are in a mountain biking / trail riding situation, it's also important to factor possibility of accident into your stopping distance--which is always important, but can be more important when mountain biking.  You might be at a distance that it is easy for you to stop when on a street and be way too close if your buddy crashes in front of you, both because of the inherent difficulties of the terrain and the additional obstacle that your buddy now provides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6898" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T00:32:55.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15722" CreationDate="2013-05-12T09:39:36.170" Score="-1" ViewCount="3482" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once is happenstance, twice is a coincidence...&#xA;I just patched my inner tube, rode the bike a bit, parked it in the sun, and about an hour later --BOOM! the tube exploded tearing a 4&quot; gash near the valve (not near the patch.) This is the second time the exact thing happened. Both times rear, both times after repairing tube. I don't know how old the tubes were, but the second one seems pretty new and the rubber is still very pliable. I tend to overinflate since the roads near me are full of hazards. This time I did not take too much care in seating the tube, but the first time i was very careful and slightly inflated, massaged the tire to make sure there were no folds or twists, and then deflated and inflated. I use a hand pump, and really don't know the pressure but I assume the tire would take any stress from high pressure, and the tube would just be sandwiched in there so high pressure would be no problem. Today was not hot (about 22C), but the sun was on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, here's the twist -- not sure if it matters. The tires are 16x1 3/8 BE, that is an old Japanese standard used on old commercial bikes. (believe it or not, it is my daily ride and I take the beast into the mountains (no gears) 2 or 3 times a week.) The tires have ears that go under the tube and overlap protecting the tube from the spoke ends. They are a pain to change, and although you can not see the tube as you seat the tire, you have to check the tire to make sure the ears are straight and not folded and the tube is not pinched, so this system should not make the tube explode in itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question -- anyone ever have tubes explode in the sun? Any idea what could cause this? Anyone know what happens if the tube is folded funny in tire -- can it form a bubble that is under too much stress? Is there something I can do to prevent this happening a third time? (three times, it's enemy action.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update --  (1) I buy the tubes on the net and don't think the stock is old. These delivery bikes were very common in Japan so they are still selling the tubes but not so much locally. (2) no rim strips - the tire becomes the rim strip i will try to attach photo of a tire below. (3) I don't assume the tire will take any pressure, but I assume the &lt;em&gt;tube&lt;/em&gt;, when constrained inside the tire will. (4) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raleigh.jp/InfoFAQ/060701_wheel-adv.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.raleigh.jp/InfoFAQ/060701_wheel-adv.htm&lt;/a&gt; shows a cutaway of the tire system on at the bottom of the page on the right (with &quot;B/E&quot; above the drawing.) (sorry about the Japanese.) You can see the tire is about as thick under the tube as it is on the tread. That is the &quot;ears&quot; i mention above. This also makes it very hard for tire to come off rim, as the pressure of the tube is forcing the bead into the groove. I think D.R Hicks' comment may be a clue, but I can't see how tire could unseat with this system. I did not see it happen, but afterward the tire was slightly unseated at the spot of the gash, but when the pressure is gone it is hard to tell with this system. Again, the pressure hold everything in place. (5) the gash (both times) was at about the 4:00, with the valve stem at 6:00 position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 2 -- here is a photo of a typical B/E tire. (Sorry I can not post photos yet.)  &lt;a href=&quot;http://urekko-cycle.shop-pro.jp/?pid=15948577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://urekko-cycle.shop-pro.jp/?pid=15948577&lt;/a&gt;    The white parts go under the tube. They are white (i think) so you can tell that they are not folded during assembly - this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a white wall tire. To assemble, you have to put one side on, make sure the ear is laying flat and goes all the way under the tube from bead to bead, then insert the tube and do the same for the other side making sure tube is not poking through. when assembled the white is completely under the tube. You also have to notch the ears for the valve stem to poke through before you use. They used to sell a special tool, but I use an exacto. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 3 -- Sorry if i am being wordy. These tires/rims were very common in Japan until about 10 years ago. Almost all delivery bikes used this system and many of the bikes are still out there. My guess is that they used this type of rim from the 60's until around 2000 on most delivery bikes, and some high end mama-chari's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update - Final answer --&#xA;I think @Daniel and @mattnz are correct and the tire must be coming off the rim. I initially discounted this, since the B/E system makes it seem impossible, but now I am convinced this is the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire is slipping off the rim at the valve stem because the ears have the notch for the stem and this is a weak point. My guess is that the sun is making the rubber soft and more pliable and the top ear is able to slip past the tube and bottom ear to unseat the bead. This seems unlikely, as the tube pressure is holding the three pieces together, but it is the only possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I researched in Japanese about B/E blowouts, but could not find anything. This is why I initially thought the tube was pinched or folded somehow and in that case it would be potentially a problem for any tire, but now I think the problem is unique to B/E rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution I will try, is to clean off the rubber and rim really well so that the four layers (rim, ear, ear, tube) all grip when under pressure. This is the opposite of what I planned to do before the discussion, as I thought some talc might help a tube kink straighten out. I may even put a dab of rubber cement between the ears near the valve stem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks for the Help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6903" LastEditorUserId="6903" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T04:43:51.727" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T12:47:54.910" Title="exploding inner tubes" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="14" ClosedDate="2013-05-17T19:16:22.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15725" CreationDate="2013-05-12T10:17:15.523" Score="5" ViewCount="1217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to go on a 2 week touring trip in a few months and I'm looking for some bags/panniers to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your recommendations regarding the capacity of the bags (considering the length of the trip)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do you have recommendations for any specific bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I will pass through towns or villages each day, so I don't need to carry a lot of food/water. I will be carrying a tent and a sleeping bag, some tools and clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4259" LastEditorUserId="4259" LastEditDate="2013-05-12T10:53:41.753" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:22:19.860" Title="Bags for longer touring" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15715" CreationDate="2013-05-12T11:35:53.973" Score="2" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought this would be simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pC3NN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front fork with screw-in brake&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tZOtf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mudguard with riveted-on loop&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the entire brake assembly needs to be rotated to screw into a thread built-in to the fork. There's also a hex/allen hollow tube-nut at the back (see red arrows), but this doesn't do anything until the bolt has screwed through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping to put the metal loop of the mudguard in front of the fork so the brake would clamp it tight (with a washer not pictured). But when you put the mudguard in place you cannot rotate the brake to screw it in, because the lever arms catch on the plastic mudguard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some trick to this bicycle-tetris that I'm missing or is this simply the wrong kind of mudguard for this fork/brake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T13:13:08.590" Title="How can I fit this mudguard?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15711" CreationDate="2013-05-12T12:49:21.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be all over the map, from a backpack containing a sleep sack and a credit card to a trailer hauling everything including the kitchen sink (a fold-up one).  I recall one guy who did a week-long trip with only a sleeping bag, a &quot;bivy sack&quot;, and a pair of tennis shoes bungied to his rear rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you first study what racks can be attached to your bike.  If you can attach front racks, that's goodness.  There are special racks with latches for matching bags, but I'm not sure that's necessarily a good idea -- nice to have choices.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then two large standard (but good quality) rear panniers and a couple of medium-sized front panniers should be fine for most people.  (Even if you don't need the front panniers for space, placing about 25-35% of the weight in the front makes the bike handle better, in the opinion of most.)  The bags should have at least a few external pockets, and sometimes bags with internal partitions work out.  Note that tent, sleeping bag, and/or sleeping pad can often be strapped on the outside, but be sure they are securely strapped on, since a loose tent or whatever can start vibrating badly on a fast downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure who the best pannier makers are these days -- Cannondale used to be pretty much the best, but they've all but quit the market.  I don't do any self-contained touring anymore so I replaced my Cannodales with a couple of small no-name units when my Cannondales finally wore out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T12:49:21.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15710" CreationDate="2013-05-12T12:50:06.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard of tubes failing in situations like yours. If you inflate the tires to the maximum rated pressure on the sidewall of the tire, the pressure can rise over that when warmed by the sun or the friction and heat from the road. The occassions I have seen this are with high pressure road tires. Since you don't have a pressure gauge there is the chance that you over inflated the tube. As you state everything is sandwiched between the tire except at the point the valve goes through the rim. Verify there are no sharp edges near the valve hole and inflate it to the correct pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T12:50:06.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15712" CreationDate="2013-05-12T13:07:20.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a hacksaw or a dremel tool to zip out a notch in the tab like this:&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kkk3D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fender Tab&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will allow you to slide the fender onto the brake bolt and tighten everything down without losing vertical fender adjustability. If you wanted to add a bit of security, bend the very ends (maybe 2mm) of the tab in a vise so that it can't slide out (though, if your front brake has come loose, you might have worse problems than a rattling fender.) Make sure if you bend the tabs that you bend them away from the fork crown - sometimes you have to do this anyway to get the tab to clear the lower headset cup, but you get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-05-12T13:13:08.590" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T13:13:08.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5267" CreationDate="2013-05-12T13:22:11.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are features which are inherent to the look and feel of certain 70's/80's mainstream road bikes. As a teen i had them on a early/mid 80's Raleigh Arena and never struggled with braking, last year i bought an old school Raleigh Pursuit as my second bike (restoration job) with the levers still on and in doing the bike up over the last 8 months (and now riding it out) i am steadfastly refusing to remove them. They are very useful when hands are on the top of the bar or positioned just behind the hood and in the main i use them for 'feathering' on descents or coming to a progressive stop. If you ride in anticipation of hazards and read the road ahead you should never need to slam on the brakes using the additional lever, use the primary brake lever as you would normally. There are too many riders who have never used them in the past and who talk with limited authority based on what they may have heard from other riders who never used them either. Purely to look 'pro' i recall i did however try and take the secondary levers off of the Arena and it messed up the mechanism causing a fair bit of rattle in the primary lever. If you want to lose them i would advise replacing the lever mech completely. That said, it is nice to look different and be able to talk with proper authority as to their benefits and how to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6906" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T13:22:11.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-12T14:14:13.497" Score="4" ViewCount="1715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just built a mountain bike with Avid BB7 brakes and Shimano V-brake levers. I used the exact same configuration on another bike, and it worked beautifully. But on this one, the brakes are just weak as hell. I know that disk brakes are supposed to have a short break-in period, but I'm way beyond that now, and still no change. What's going on and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T21:24:35.317" Title="Brand new disk brakes are barely stopping the bike" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15710" CreationDate="2013-05-12T14:34:47.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The expansion of air at normal temperatures between sun and shade should have no effect if the tube is inflated to its recommended running pressure, even going above by 10% should not have any effect as the tube will be built with significant tolerances well above that. For example, i have tyre's rated to 110psi but run them at 120psi and i weigh 95kg. I think the best thing for starters is to get a track pump with a guage, particularly if you are using a pump with a high psi which can easily go well above the rating for the tyre or tube. All of this said there can be many reasons - it'll perhaps be a case of eliminating them one by one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6906" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T14:34:47.300" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15700" CreationDate="2013-05-12T14:49:09.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you explored corrective measures for the eyesight. If you have and are still struggling to see what is straight ahead it may not just be moving traffic coming up behind you that could pose a risk. The ability to read a number plate from around 30m is a fairly basic requirement and this might mean you are missing other risks and riding your luck a little. Even on quiet country roads not being fully aware of other road users or failing to see hidden junctions and emerging traffic could pose a risk as well. Probably not the answer you are seeking but please cycle safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6906" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T14:49:09.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15717" CreationDate="2013-05-12T20:57:41.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Avid recommends breaking those discs and pads in with about 30 or 40 deliberately hard stops in order to build up a good foundation. If you've gone through that process a couple of times and still no dice, there could be brake fluid on the discs or pads. Some water or isopropyl alcohol should take care of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2013-05-12T21:24:35.317" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T21:24:35.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15724" CreationDate="2013-05-12T22:15:30.630" Score="1" ViewCount="2442" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything is original except for saddle, tires and forks. I have a sentimental attachment to this bike but would like to bring it into the 21st century.  I'm looking to make this a nice project bike but don't know much about the compatibility of new components on this model. Things I would like to upgrade are; Suspension forks, wheel set and tires, disc brakes, front and rear chainrings, shifter/derailer, crank arms, handlebar and any other related parts needed. Looking to create a real retro beast.&#xA;The bike had the stock rigid forks that I upgraded myself to RockShox JudyXC back in the day but those elastomer pistons are toast. Since it's been a while that I traded serious riding for changing diapers I figure It's time to take the bike out of retirement and make it something worth riding and passing on to my son when he goes off to college in a couple of years. &#xA;Any advice and/or guidance would be much appreciated.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6908" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T20:55:56.457" Title="What are the possible upgrades to a 95' Cannondale M900?" Tags="&lt;build&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15710" CreationDate="2013-05-12T22:20:47.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Daniel has said it many times in this QA - The problem is the tire, not the tube. You need to remove any discussion of tube from this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either tire is coming off the rim, or it has a hole in it big enough for the tube to balloon out. The most likely scenario is, as said by @Daniel, The tire bead is coming off the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can happen if the tire is over inflated - too much pressure for it to hold together, under inflated while riding - rolling off the rim, The rim is damaged - visual inspection will confirm or if the tire bead is broken. If the pressure is correct (Below max printed on tire) and the rim not damaged, suspect the bead is broken and the tire needs to be replaced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T22:20:47.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5267" CreationDate="2013-05-13T00:08:00.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They were called &quot;suicide levers&quot; because the rider could use them in the upright position with high center of gravity. At the time, most LBS's would tell you to lower your center of gravity in preparation to stop, and these were frowned upon since their purpose was to make it unnecessary to hold the bar at the lower point, lowering your center of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that they were called &quot;safety&quot; levers by the manufacturers using the same logic that GM does in marketing their SUV's as &quot;energy efficient&quot; -- a bold marketing lie to confuse an inherent weakness in the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the LBS's or riders insisted on them then Shimano would have made them and they would still be around, but when you think about it, they are unnecessary and encourage the bad habit of applying brakes with high COG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6903" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T00:08:00.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15721" CreationDate="2013-05-13T03:30:23.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar era KHS Alite3000 - Most moving parts had been replaced from wear over its life, but pretty much original. AT 10.5kg, RockShox Judy's, XT components etc, it is a light, fast and agile bike. Like you, I gave up serious riding for kids, got back into it last year. The KHS, despite my fondness for the bike, has been given away in favor of a new bike. Like cars, bikes have moved a long way in 20 years, and the &quot;practical&quot; option is to replace it - especially if you ride off road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reasons for me to replace rather than upgrade were cost exceeding the total cost of a new bike, no disk mounts and the old frame geometry not suitable for modern forks- back then 50mm was considered long travel, now 120 typical for XC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to upgrade it, cheapest bet would probably be a &quot;donor&quot; bike. Getting decent forks with V brake bosses is next to impossible, so disks on the front would be easiest. Unless you got some second hand quality forks with V brake bosses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do is tune it up, replace any obviously worn out bits, and buy my son a new or 2-3 year old secondhand bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T03:30:23.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15711" CreationDate="2013-05-13T03:40:33.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer based on the little information given I'd guess two larger panniers would be enough, especially if the tent and sleeping mat is strapped on top.  Watch out for the heel clearance, especially with the largest ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer and rambling: The length of the trip doesn't matter as much as you'd might think.  It really depends on how much you'll going to pack.  The truth is that probably a beginner will back more than an experienced bicycler tourer because you have to figure out for yourself what items and luxuries you'd like and which ones aren't of value to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a list of the things you would like to take along.  Maybe get some feedback from experienced tourers and have them review and comment on your list.  Take their suggestion with a grain of salt, since it's really personal what one takes along.  Then judge from that how large of a panniers you need.  Don't over stuff them if possible.  Not only will it be harder to get your things out of the bags but you also need some room for food purchases during your trip.  Often people stop at a grocery just before the campsite to stock up on food for the night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't carry water in you panniers.  Two or three water bottles in cages should be plenty.  You wan want to take a small water bladder along if you go through the occasional area where extra water is needed (i.e. campground where drinking water isn't available).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.com/p-liste.php?ptyp=radtasche&amp;amp;lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ortlib&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkel&lt;/a&gt; are some popular pannier bags but really any sturdy pannier bags will work.  Some people even mount &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?doc_id=1841&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;kitty litter tubs as pannniers&lt;/a&gt; to their rack.  Ortlib bags are by default rain proved but they also don't have external pockets and aren't breathable.  Most other bags including the Arkle need a rain cover for rain. BTW, try choosing a color that improves your visibility (yellow or red instead of black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A main thing to keep in mind is to balance the weight evenly between the sides.  If carrying much you can also mount a front rack.  This will also distribute the weight off your rear wheel.  The goal with front racks is to keep the center of gravity low.  So lowrider front racks are often preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some alternatives to pannier bags are trailers (single wheeled like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobgear.com/bike-trailers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bob trailer&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.burley.com/home/bur/page_454/nomad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;two wheeled&lt;/a&gt; child trailer), &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.catalog&amp;amp;CategoryID=1&amp;amp;ProductID=16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;frame bag&lt;/a&gt; (especially popular with mountain bikers in conjunction with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.catalog&amp;amp;CategoryID=3&amp;amp;ProductID=25&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;handle bar rolls&lt;/a&gt; when riding narrow trails), or just &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/10187806@N00/8339488305/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tying everything&lt;/a&gt; onto your rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[links are just for clarifications, not for endorsement]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5513" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T03:40:33.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15728" CreationDate="2013-05-13T08:55:28.187" Score="3" ViewCount="1870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally ran a bungee strap through my old rear deraileur and it tore it apart. I have fitted an identical replacement but cannot work out how to adjust it so that the tension pulley does not collide with the spokes of the rear wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The original rear derailleur, damaged&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gx4CW.png&quot; alt=&quot;The original rear derailleur, damaged&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(hi-res version &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/4alZd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally I bought the bike new from the LBS, who built it. It looks like they may have bent deliberately the metal frame that holds the guide pully but I'm a little anxious about trashing a brand new derailleur without confirmation that this is the best solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a Surly Crosscheck and this rear derailleur is the standard spec so it seems more likely that the crunch has damaged another part or I have misfitted the rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the likely problem that is causing the guide pulley to collide with the spokes when I switch to the large sprocket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5170" LastEditorUserId="5170" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T09:30:40.883" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T09:30:40.883" Title="Rear derailleur hits spokes when switching to largest sprocket" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15727" CreationDate="2013-05-13T09:30:36.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess the derailleur hanger or the bit of frame it connects to must be bent. These can be bent back. Of course &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown has some advice&lt;/a&gt;, but I'd be afraid to do this myself and instead take it to the LBS who will have the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T09:30:36.920" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15730" CreationDate="2013-05-13T10:13:08.313" Score="2" ViewCount="50142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Reebok Bike pump yesterday which is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007S8R988/ref=asc_df_B007S8R98813201146?smid=A3JJAJ2Z3R1E47&amp;amp;tag=hydra0b-21&amp;amp;linkCode=asn&amp;amp;creative=22218&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B007S8R988&amp;amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;amp;hvexid=&amp;amp;hvnetw=g&amp;amp;hvrand=114639824516295402&amp;amp;hvpone=&amp;amp;hvptwo=&amp;amp;hvqmt=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. I have presta valves for my Jamis Allegro Sport 2012 hybrid bike and I was trying to pump the tyres using the pump as part of my monthly maintenance. I could not lock the pump nozzle to my presta valve because the nozzle was not fitting properly even after locking the clamp and was constantly coming out. Additionally, I could not hard-press the nozzle as it might damage my presta valve. I would like to know what the problem is and if I (possibly) need an adapter to corretly fit the valve? Does anyone have any previous experience? I kind of feel that the pump itself is rubish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, When I connected the pump to the presta valve, it did not gauge the existing air pressure which is weird as I expected it to show so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T15:32:45.870" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T14:45:12.550" Title="Cannot fit pump nozzle properly to the presta valve of my tyre" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;presta&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15729" CreationDate="2013-05-13T11:05:51.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you need to make sure you have the right chuck setup.  If the pump you have is the one in the link then it claims to be auto-converting between Schrader and Presta -- you can skip to the next paragraph.  But if you have a slightly different pump it may require manual conversion.  As you press the chuck onto the valve you should feel some resistance as the rubber gasket in the chuck snugly fits around the valve stem.  If the fit is not snug the chuck probably requires manual conversion and is probably set up for Schrader, so you need to unscrew the knurled nut on the very end of the chuck and reverse the rubber gasket inside (taking care to no lose any spring or washer behind the gasket).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether the chuck is auto-converting you may need to tighten the knurled nut on the open end of the chuck, to make it tight enough that you feel some resistance from the gasket as you slide the chuck on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before installing the chuck you must unscrew the little knurled knob on the top of the Presta valve.  Unscrew it all the way until it stops against the crimp on the top of the threaded rod.  Just to be sure you have it open, press the end of the rod with your finger and listen for the puff of air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Press the chuck onto the valve.  If the Presta valve does not have a nut retaining it to keep it from sliding back into the tire you will likely need to use your thumb on the tire, on the back side of the valve, to keep the valve from sliding into the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get the chuck all the way onto the valve (about 3/4&quot; or 2cm) then flip up the lever to lock the chuck on.  (Note that there have been a few chuck designs where you flip the lever up while applying/removing the chuck, and flip it down to latch instead of vice-versa.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get the chuck on properly you should be able to read the air pressure (if any) already in the tire.  If not the valve is not open and you will likely not be able to get air into the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once inflated, remove the chuck and screw the knurled knob down snug (but not over-tight).  And install the cap, if you have one.  This helps prevent damage to the relatively fragile Presta valve mechanism and prevents accidental release of air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to add air to your tires much more often than monthly.  Once a week at the very least, and in most cases 2-3 times a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T14:38:06.870" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T14:38:06.870" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="308" CreationDate="2013-05-13T13:28:20.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One rather drastic solution: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.eta.co.uk/2013/05/07/cycle-commuter-holy-grail-shirt-remains-wrinkle-and-odour-free-without-washing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cycle commuter Holy Grail: Shirt remains wrinkle and odour-free without washing.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the shirt in the URL/title, though that has obvious applications if it works as advertised, but scroll down to the &quot;DIY shower for commuter cyclists&quot;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0VDiM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0VDiM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toilet to shower conversion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="1158" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T13:56:31.033" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T13:56:31.033" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-05-13T13:28:20.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15711" CreationDate="2013-05-13T15:48:20.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will want two large-ish (30-40 litres each) panniers in the back, and two small-ish (20-25 litres each) panniers in the front. Having them on both ends of the bike improves handling a lot, and it lessens the pressure on your rear tire, which can save you quite a few flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/prod-31.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ortlieb back roller classic&lt;/a&gt; panniers in the back, and two &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/prod-30.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;front roller classic&lt;/a&gt; panniers in the front. I carry my tent on top of the rack, and the rest in the bags. These offers more space than I need for a two week trip, but they squeeze smaller pretty easily, and there are always times when the extra capacity comes in handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important point of these bags is that (when properly closed) they are completely waterproof. If you only bike in sunny weather this may not be an issue, but if you expect rain then the certainty of a dry change of clothes and a dry sleeping bag to crawl into at the end of the day is a the best morale boost there is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T00:22:19.860" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:22:19.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12884" CreationDate="2013-05-13T16:17:08.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blue Sky Cycle Carts makes one - we have had it for more than 10 years!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6914" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T16:17:08.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15729" CreationDate="2013-05-13T20:06:26.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you unscrew the presta valve first.  There is a small top piece that must be unscrewed before you place the pump onto the valve.  If all is correct, you should be able to press onto the presta valve and air will be released.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once your presta valve is open, place the pump nozzle over the valve with the locking tab &lt;strong&gt;DOWN&lt;/strong&gt;.  Press firmly (you might hear some air deflate, but don't worry about that). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the nozzle is over the valve entirely, push the nozzle locking tab &lt;strong&gt;UP&lt;/strong&gt; to lock the nozzle in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump up your tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once fully inflated, put the nozzle locking tab &lt;strong&gt;DOWN&lt;/strong&gt; and pull off the nozzle.  You may hear a small amount of air escape, but this is most likely from the pump itself and not from your tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw the presta valve top piece back down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High-five yourself!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6915" LastEditorUserId="6915" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T22:10:34.207" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T22:10:34.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15738" CreationDate="2013-05-14T08:03:09.473" Score="5" ViewCount="3918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to upgrade my racer, I currently have a Bottecchia racer from the mid-80s and it has 14 gears.  While looking around for newer racers I noticed that a number of them had 20 gears while other ones had 27 gears.  Since I live in Berlin, so pretty flat although with the occasional hill, what would be the recommended number of gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6921" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T09:00:14.367" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T12:15:10.067" Title="Number of gears for a racer" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15737" CreationDate="2013-05-14T08:41:11.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bikes which have 27 gears will have triple chainrings at the front. Three rings can be very useful to give you lower gears, typically when you might struggle at climbing, or carry a load such as when touring. For example, I have an Audax bike which has a triple chainset. Its by no means a thoroughbread in terms of performance, but its suitable for a wide range of rides including multi-day trips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you're looking at a &quot;racer&quot; bike, it is far more common to find just a double chainset at the front. In fact, many manufacturers produce double chainrings which will give you almost the same range of gears (but not quite) as a triple - these are called compact chainsets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A double chainset will be what gives rise to your existing 14 gears (2 rings at the front, 7 cogs at the back), or the 20 gears (2 x 10) you've seen. In fact both Shimano and Campagnolo (I'm not sure about SRAM, but these three manufacturers dominate the market) now produce 11-cog rear cassettes, which would give rise to 22 gears. But 11-speed cassettes are at the high end of their respective product ranges, and 10-speed is far more common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while a triple chainset will make climbing easier, that's not to say that climbing is not possible with just a double chainset. Far from it. You'll probably find that most seasoned cyclists (and all professional cyclists I think) will ride with a double chainset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary in a place with occasional hills, a double chainset will probably suffice. But definitely worth considering the &quot;compact&quot; option too to give yourself maximum flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current Shimano Ultegra chainset comes in triple, double and compact variants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The triple rings have 52, 39 and 30 teeth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The double rings have 52 and 39 teeth, so basically the same but without the smallest ring. You can imagine this might make climbing quite a bit harder (30% to be precise) on your legs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The compact has rings with 52 and 34 teeth. So the same &quot;high gear&quot; limit, but a smaller second ring to make climbing easier. Clearly the small ring isn't as small as the triple, so the triple will give you the easiest gears, but as I say compact is &quot;enough&quot; for most of us.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T12:15:10.067" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T12:15:10.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15700" CreationDate="2013-05-14T14:11:32.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One tip I have picked up to avoid cars passing so close is to ride further away from the kerb (but not so far you're hogging the road and then drivers get annoyed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to have some pycological effect on drivers to give you more room. I can't explain it, but found it to work in most cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen bikes with mirrors fitted and some sort of plastic distance keeper (a pole that sticks out with a reflector on, I would imagine this needs to break if a car hits it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T14:11:32.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15748" CreationDate="2013-05-14T16:16:58.407" Score="3" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike with a 52/36 crankset. I make it a point to never use the easy gear because I think that it gives me a better workout when climbing hills. Another reason I don't use it is because the chain rubs on the front derailleur when going from the 36 on the front to the 12 on the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my theory of getting a better workout correct? Is there any good reason for me to not do this other than putting more wear on the gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is only about 3 hills in my daily commute where I sometimes want to downshift into the easy gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T18:24:47.693" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T12:20:36.743" Title="Does never using the easy front gear give a better workout?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15741" CreationDate="2013-05-14T16:32:29.023" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're going for cross chaining when doing the 36/12 combo (Small in front and small in back) which is generally a really bad idea and should be avoided. Also big in front and big in back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the getting a better workout, you are definitely having to put more force into the pedals with keeping it in the big ring, but depending on how big the hills are, shifting down into an easier gear wouldn't hurt. Generally for me if the hills are above 5% or 6% I will shift down into the small ring and shift down in the back to keep me spinning ~90 rpm up the hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T16:32:29.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15744" CreationDate="2013-05-14T16:36:00.473" Score="4" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I raced against a car yesterday &lt;a href=&quot;http://contour.com/stories/another-race&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;for fun&lt;/a&gt;, in doing this, I rode at about 25-29 mph (40-47kmh) for about 3 minutes. The temperature outside was in the mid to low 40s (5-8 Celsius).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards I felt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Out of breath for at least 3 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wanted to cough but didn't cough anything up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inside of my throat felt cold and painful&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I got the feeling of wanting to puke a few times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rest of my commute home, which was 15+ minutes I felt like shit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the cold weather was big factor in this, am I correct? What can I do in the future to prevent this from happening to me? During the 3 minutes of the ride I had no idea that I was going to feel this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should add that I've been riding 10 miles per day for the 2 years (including most of the winter). I usually ride this same stretch going 21-26 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T18:28:33.303" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T12:43:52.360" Title="Why did I feel like crap after racing against a car?" Tags="&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15743" CreationDate="2013-05-14T16:41:13.417" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Breathing in the cold air probably didn't help, but what you describe happens to most people after doing hard intervals and only goes away with recovering.  As far as preventing it in the future, the only thing I can recommend is not &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vo2_max&quot;&gt;maxing out&lt;/a&gt; and going &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anaerobic_threshold&quot;&gt;anaerobic&lt;/a&gt; by chasing cars and going into zone 4/5 heart rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit for Clarification&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I refer to going anaerobic that means going above your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactate_threshold&quot;&gt;Lactic Threshold&lt;/a&gt;. During the sprint after the car you were in that zone for a long period of time.  This is also referred to as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.active.com/triathlon/Articles/Training-Zones-Explained&quot;&gt;Heart Rate Zone&lt;/a&gt; 4 or 5 depending on intensity. Those zones are used for high intensity training and can't be maintained for a long period of time.  Since your heart rate lags behind exertion you won't feel it right away, but you will after racing the car.  When you are riding on your own, you aren't pushing as hard as you were when you were chasing the car (think dogs chasing after a rabbit) which is why you wouldn't have felt it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastEditorUserId="6795" LastEditDate="2013-05-15T23:23:28.940" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T23:23:28.940" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1282" CreationDate="2013-05-14T17:12:46.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a Brit coming to the States and trying to negotiate cycling not only the other side of the road but these variations of hand signals is a little daunting. In Uk left arm straight out is left turn right arm straight out is right turn and right arm (remember we are on the left side of the road) straight out but waving up and down is slowing or stop. The rude sign to taxi drivers of course is the left or right V sign ( the other way round to the peace sign man) I now know I am now too old to deal with he consequences of using this sign and while here in California I shall be the model of politeness as a gracious guest of your extra ordinary county. safe cycling all. &#xA;Bill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6925" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T17:12:46.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15743" CreationDate="2013-05-14T17:28:02.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've just become familiar with the feeling of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exercise-induced_nausea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;exercise induced nausea&lt;/a&gt;. Don't worry, you're not at all alone. No matter your long distance endurance, it happens after a period of over exertion ( any amount of exertion more than your body is used to, regardless of your fitness level ), and is sometimes exacerbated by not enough or too much hydration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T18:19:35.527" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T18:19:35.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15751" CreationDate="2013-05-14T18:08:49.637" Score="4" ViewCount="5483" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so in my quest to get my old Trek 7000 ZX MTB running again after a long retirement, I am having an issue with replacing the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike came with a Shimano LP25 that is marked BC 1.37 x 24. The spindle has LL 113 stamped into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I ordered a Shimano UN55 BC 1.37 x 24 113mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They should be exactly the same size right? Well the new one seemed to be offset to the right (drive side) by about 1/8 inch, even though the spindles are the same length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my front derailleur (STX-RC) won't shift to the largest outside sprocket even when the adjustment screw is all the way out. What can I do to correct this issue? I thought the only thing that mattered when replacing a bottom bracket was the thread size (68mm) and the spindle length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another strange issue is that the orginal LP25 has the threads on the L side, while the new UN55 has the threads on the R side. I could have sworn the threads were on the drive side when I removed the bottom bracket, but now I'm not so sure given the markings on it. Unless the bottom bracket was originally installed backwards? Would that explain the 1/8 inch offset discrepancy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help. I'm really confused at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6927" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T03:44:31.793" Title="Replaced Shimano Bottom Bracket, now front derailleur won't shift to largest gear" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15741" CreationDate="2013-05-14T18:20:13.957" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not necessarily &quot;good&quot; for your workout. If you drop into the 'easy' gear, you obviously have to pedal faster to maintain your speed. Going at a slower cadence in a higher gear will just trash your knees after awhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Select the gear that yields a similar cadence as when you are riding on the flats, while maintaining a similar energy expenditure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your chain rubbing problems should be solved by adjusting your derailuer and properly maintaining your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T18:20:13.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15653" CreationDate="2013-05-14T18:46:43.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put 40,000 miles on my Ksyium Elite wheels without ever even needing to true them, much less suffer a broken spoke.  OTOH, my second pair of these cracked the rim on the rear wheel around the valve hole with about 7,000 miles.  Fortunately this happened two weeks before the warranty expired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T18:46:43.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15752" CreationDate="2013-05-14T23:15:46.503" Score="9" ViewCount="6307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm installing bar-end shifters for the first time (Shimano 9-speeds, for what it's worth) and was wondering if I should be running the tape over the bottom of the handlebar with surplus to insert into the bar.  In the past, I've done this and used wine corks or handlebar caps to hold the tape in.  When using cloth tape, this is no problem; foam/cork tape usually is fine too.  But is it the same with bar-end shifters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6894" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T23:39:51.063" Title="Does handlebar tape go inside the bar, under the bar-end shifter, when using bar-end shifters?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15747" CreationDate="2013-05-14T23:24:51.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite the the spindle length is 113, but as you observed, the offset is different - so the cranks are sitting in different positions. Not all Shimano BB are made symmetrical - and UN55 BC 1.37 x 24 113mm. means its a 1.37*24tpi thread, with a 113mm shaft - not mention on the offset of the shaft. Based on all this, evidence is that you have an imcompatable BB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presuming you have correctly refitted the crank (so it is seated properly) - What to do about it - best would be to go to a 110, or even 107 mm BB - this will move the crank to the centre of the bike and fix the problem, also providing better alignment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, are you certain the derailleur won't move out further. Best thing to do it unhook the cable outer from the frame (or shifter) so the cable is certainly free and not stopping the shifter moving to it's outer most position, and release the outer limit adjustment screw on the derailleur. If the derailuer then moves out far enough, you should be good to set up, as it's &quot;just&quot; adjustment of cable and limit stops. If not, you will need a different BB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not possible to install the BB backwards - the right hand side has a left hand thread....... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: In response to OPs comment..... &#xA;The problem is then to do with the BB getting to the correct chainline - MTB sets should be about 47.5-50mm. If you cannot find the correct sized BB, and a 110mm is too short for the left crank, you have two other options - try a different left crank, or (Perhaps for the really desperate only) I have seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://houseofyes.wordpress.com/phil-wood-y-bottom-bracket/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; web article about grinding off the lip on the fixed right hand side, allowing you the thread it into the frame further, thereby to give the ability to adjust the chain line. (I would get a local engineering shop to use a lathe.....)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-05-16T08:58:18.857" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T08:58:18.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15750" CreationDate="2013-05-14T23:39:51.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bar-end shifters require friction between the bar's interior surface to stay put, so no. Install the shifters securely and tape the shifter housing about where you would like it to emerge from the bar tape. You will end up wrapping over the first few inches of shifter housing before it loops forward and may require a bit of futzing to get it looking right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VO_0Ch03dc&amp;amp;list=UUET5rPAL6PluSqsoWxlScuA&amp;amp;index=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a lovely video showing shifters being installed on a drop bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T23:39:51.063" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5136" CreationDate="2013-05-15T00:36:27.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading about this issue all night, and thinking about it for days, I think I'm going to go with a trailer.  I may be able to do well enough with a seat, but I'd rather not risk my daughter's safety.  I know my wife will feel even more strongly about that than I do.  I just can't shake the chill I get when I think about tipping my bike over.  I'm a pretty good rider, but even at low speed, things have caused me to spill.  I can walk it off, but I can't imagine how awful I would feel if something awful happened to my little girl.  I'd rather her be safe than I be sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you to everyone who has posted in response to this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must say, too, that the cargo bike and kangaroo (I think it was called) were certainly interesting.  Had I known about them before we bought our bikes, I might have considered one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6932" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T00:36:27.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15551" CreationDate="2013-05-15T00:47:35.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean Vancouver, BC, I live to the south of you between Tacoma and Seattle and commute 7 miles one-way up and down hills year-round.  I use a steel touring bike with a front triple and wide gearing on the rear, though I really only use the granny for hills on longer touring rides.  No bar-ends for me in commuting.  I need to change gears too often and in traffic.  I like drop bars with brifters where I have my hands in position to make any speed/gear adjustment without taking my hands off the bar or my eyes off the road.  Bar-end shifters are cheaper and easier to repair/replace, so I guess that why some touring riders like them.  I've got cartridge pad cantilevers, but would probably have bought discs if I could have found them on the right bike (fit and price).  But... the cantilevers are a breeze to maintain. Wet weather commuting takes a toll on them, even if you have the time and place to clean the bike.  With cartridge pads, replacing pads is usually a 10 minute job and requires no cable adjustment.  Internal hub would be nice, but I wasn't willing to pay for wide enough gearing for the hills.  So I replace chains 2-3 times a year and a cassette every other year. I ride 700x28 or 700x32 puncture-guard tires, but I'm looking at a Conti' 700x37 winter tire for the next cold, rainy season.  I wouldn't commute on anything narrower than the 28's, unless all your roads are smooth.  Fenders? Yes, full fenders to keep some of the crud off you and your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6933" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T00:47:35.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15757" CreationDate="2013-05-15T02:06:50.677" Score="4" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read an article stating &#xA;that the smallest of a particular model of bicycle doesn't fully reflect the original design concept of the model&#xA;when I was about to buy the smallest (430mm seat tube) of Pinarello FPUNO carbon.&#xA;Is it true ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5896" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-05-18T13:38:45.477" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:43:36.847" Title="Does frame size inside a particular model affect the ride characteristics of the bike?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15758" CreationDate="2013-05-15T05:21:01.473" Score="2" ViewCount="943" Body="&lt;p&gt;All,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano 600 Italian-threaded bottom bracket (&lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?id=4a08de6e-d5e0-4b02-b2d5-101da450114e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BB-6400&lt;/a&gt;) and after riding with it for a few weeks, the fixed cup is loosening. I've since read up about Italian BBs and learned that the correct amount of torque needs to be applied to the fixed cup, somewhere in the 600 in-lb range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/crank-and-bottom-bracket-wrench-hcw-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HCW-4&lt;/a&gt; isn't quite cutting it to get me to that level. I'd like to tighten it correctly and am looking for the right tool. If I'm in the market for a torque wrench, what tool or combination of tools will fit the 36 mm cup and allow me to reach the right torque?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3EG4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BB-6400 fixed cup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1364" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-01-31T13:46:11.177" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T13:46:11.177" Title="Italian bottom bracket Shimano BB-6400 fixed cup tightening - what tool?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15755" CreationDate="2013-05-15T12:48:20.703" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea here is that a frame is typically originally designed in a 56cm frame, or the equivalent median size for the &quot;average size&quot; rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the frame design is tested and finalized, most manufacturers minimize the changes they make when creating the molds for additional sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can result in small sizes having a harsher ride than the median, and large sizes having a softer feel, and slightly less power transfer. This is accentuated by the fact that most riders on a small frame have less weight and mass with which to flex the frame, and larger riders have more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really high quality manufacturers, like Storck bikes, for instance, use progressively shaped and manufactured tubing, which allows for the ride on the smallest frames and the largest frames to have the same ride characteristics of the median original design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not personally familiar with the manufacturing techniques of Pinarello bikes, but their unique frame and tubing shapes would indicate to me that they would need to design each size independently, which would give a consistent ride characteristic, regardless of size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pinarello is known for the stability of their ride, but also for having a heavier than average frame weight. A 56cm frame is typically around 1800 grams, while the Scott Foil or the Storck Fascenario 0.7 G2 are 1050 grams and 1200 grams respectively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is more important that the ride characteristics match what you want from the bike, than how much it weighs, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you ridden and been fitted on the bike you plan to buy? If not, do so first. &#xA;(Full disclosure: I manage a shop which sells Storck. This is not an ad, but it is why I'm familiar with the topic.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:43:36.847" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:43:36.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15756" CreationDate="2013-05-15T12:53:30.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the tool you want, combined with any torque wrench with the proper range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/baIBR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;display&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of applications where a torque is specified by the manufacturer, but no tool fitting for a torque wrench is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BBI Torque Wrench Adapter allows you to attach any &quot;normal&quot; wrench to a torque guage, and get an accurate measurement of the torque applied to the fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used it with pedal and cone wrenches primarily, but it would work well with the HCW-4 on a fixed cup application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKedw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BBI Adaptor&quot;&gt;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OcG1R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;in use&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbinstitute.com/store?page=shop.product_details&amp;amp;flypage=flypage.tpl&amp;amp;product_id=31&amp;amp;category_id=10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Barnett's Bicycle Institute Torque Wrench Adaptor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-05-15T18:56:19.723" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T18:56:19.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15743" CreationDate="2013-05-16T09:59:05.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the probably-familiar effects of exercising very hard, air pollution may be a factor in your discomfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you exercise hard in an city with plenty of traffic nearby and at least one vehicle accelerating right in front of you, then you'll be breathing a lot of air pollution, especially if it's the evening rush hour on a hot day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1724353/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;study&lt;/a&gt; reported in the British Journal of Sports Medicine, concludes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Athletes and exercisers should avoid exercising by the&#xA;  road side even though levels of the more noxious air pollutants have&#xA;  been controlled in the United Kingdom. O3 is particularly damaging to&#xA;  athletes; it reaches its highest concentrations on hot bright days in&#xA;  rural areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's worth remembering that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.outsideonline.com/fitness/wellness/Exhaust-Yourself-20120801.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;exercising in polluted areas is still better than not exercising at all&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try the same sprint somewhere less polluted and see if there's a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T09:59:05.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15761" CreationDate="2013-05-16T11:01:21.857" Score="7" ViewCount="737" Body="&lt;p&gt;After mountain biking in muddy conditions I clean my mountain bike with a high pressure water blaster. I'm assuming that after this I should re-lube my chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6942" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T03:37:40.863" Title="High pressure water cleaning and chain lube" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15760" CreationDate="2013-05-16T12:43:09.513" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard you should keep high pressure water away from your bike, because it can easily work it's way into the bearings, even sealed ones, especially around the bottom bracket and wheels. Pressurized water will push the oil out of the spaces between the chain links, and it's probably not a good idea to use pressurized water at all.  You should be able to sufficiently clean the dirt off your bike with some light water, or, if you want to really thorough, use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/product/4007-008/mec-chain-cleaner/&quot;&gt;chain cleaner&lt;/a&gt;.  And you should always relube after cleaning regardless of which cleaning method you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T12:43:09.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15825" CreationDate="2013-05-16T12:46:43.423" Score="6" ViewCount="2003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike setup with tubeless mountain bike tires.  I tend to ride about 20-25 PSI.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I store my tubeless tires? Does it matter what pressure I store the tires at between rides? Should it be Higher/Lower/Same than regular riding pressure? Any differences for 'Ghetto Tubeless' setups done with a splayed tube and sealant vs UST? Any difference for tubeless fatbike tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:54:47.177" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:54:47.177" Title="When not in use, How should I store my tubeless tires?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;storage&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15767" CreationDate="2013-05-16T15:43:23.960" Score="6" ViewCount="2858" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whole rim/tire size thing baffles me.  I have a Specialized cross bike that has DT Swiss rims (622x 14). The tires are Tracer Sport (700 x 33). I would like to get a pair of slicks for longer road rides as I cannot afford a whole new wheelset at the moment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best I can tell, there is no such thing as a slick tread in that tire size, so what is the range of tire sizes I could get for those rims?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6944" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T20:26:30.150" Title="Buying slicks for a cross bike" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15771" CreationDate="2013-05-16T16:28:13.573" Score="4" ViewCount="1577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a touring bike, with fenders, rack, panniers, and so on.&#xA;I currently run a triple crankset 28/38/48 and 9sp 11-34 cassette.&#xA;I mostly commute and tour with this bike. And with a fair load, I mostly ride on my 48 in front and 14-ish and around in the back.&#xA;I can climb most climbs with the 38 and sometimes as high as the 26 (rarely the 30 and 34t)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I want to go more on the workout/sport/exercise type of riding I am considering the purchase of a road bike (more of a racing type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer a compact 50/34 crankset but am wondering for the cassette, do I need to go as high as a 10sp 12-30 to climb all I need?&#xA;Because I also like the idea of closer gears, so is 12-28 or 12-25 too tough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T01:06:33.777" Title="Transmission (cassette/crankset) considerations for 1st road bike purchase" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;compact-crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15769" CreationDate="2013-05-16T16:40:03.790" Score="7" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mostly commute and have never had trouble climbing a hill sometimes by using my lowest speeds (or close to them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I evaluate even roughly what grave %age I climbed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I mean is that I would love to tour someday in a real mountain-y region, and would like to know how to approach climbs like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I see profiles with %ages as high as 10%. I know I never rode 10km at 10% but how does 10% look like? how do I know I won't be forced to give up after the first mile or two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about 5%? 7%? or the extreme 12.5% I see on some climbs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a GPS device that gives a reliable path of where I've ridden, but the altitude is not reliable to the profiles of my rides are not either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T01:58:16.070" Title="Evaluate hill gradient" Tags="&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15764" CreationDate="2013-05-16T16:50:27.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are multiple ways to talk about wheel/tire sizing. &quot;700c&quot; is an old standard that's actually the exact same size as &quot;622&quot; or &quot;29er&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;622x14 is the ISO standard way to refer to the rim's bead seat diameter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700x33 is &quot;622x33&quot; in ISO standard sizing. 622 means it will fit a 622 rim. 33 means that on some standard rim, the width of the inflated tire is 33mm. There's no real standard used for measuring tire &lt;em&gt;width&lt;/em&gt;, so &quot;same size&quot; tires from different companies may differ by 1 or 2mm...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot;&gt;this handy chart on Sheldon Brown's website&lt;/a&gt;, anything from about 20-28mm width should work great on your 14mm rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for &lt;strong&gt;622x20&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;622x28&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;700x20&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;700x28&lt;/strong&gt;. You could go as large as 33mm wide, like your cross tires, but I think you'd prefer the on-road handling of tires that are more safely within the recommended range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you go more towards the high end of that range or towards the low end of that range should depend on the kind of roads you'll be riding on. If the roads are nice and smooth, 20-23mm tires may be the way to go. If there's bumps, potholes, train tracks, etc, go with 25-28mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T16:50:27.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15765" CreationDate="2013-05-16T17:45:40.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to expand into some workout/exercise riding, you don't necessarily need to go as high as 30 or 28. When I run a 50/34 crankset with just a 12-23 cassette, I find that I can still make it up just about any hill, and you probably already put in more miles than I do on your touring bike. So I think you'll find great success with a 12-25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T17:45:40.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15766" CreationDate="2013-05-16T18:13:42.987" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various web sites that might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use one called &lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://ridewithgps.com&lt;/a&gt;. You need to register on it but you can get quite a lot from a free account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does your GPS device output GPX files? If so, I think Ride With GPS can suck them in. If not you might have to put your route into the site manually (but this is easy enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what you do get on your route is a display of the gradient (you hover over different parts of the route to see it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I did a quick ride yesterday afternoon, here it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rbhuN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RideWithGps screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a pay account with these people but I'm fairly sure you get this page with the free account too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any good to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just added another image - didn't realise SE was going to reduce the main one so much. This is just a zoom of the bit with the tooltip. Note also the blue dot in the corner - this is the location on the google map which corresponds to the crosshairs on the elevation plot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxLy1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RideWithGpsZoom&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-05-16T18:32:25.550" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T18:32:25.550" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17638" CreationDate="2013-05-16T18:26:47.560" Score="26" ViewCount="27533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had a bike with drop handlebars, but may get one for commuting in busy London (likely a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/cross/day-one/day-one-disc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;single-speed with mechanical disc brakes&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would mean riding with my hands mostly &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/5255/6678&quot;&gt;on the hoods&lt;/a&gt;, but it seems like a slightly awkward position to use the brakes from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O95Rg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Braking with hands on the hoods of drop handlebars&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding on the drops seems to offer better access to the brakes, but is apparently &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5251/how-to-use-drop-handlebars-properly/5255#5255&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;less stable due to narrower hand position&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; anyway — so when talking about cycling with cars, vans and busses around, doesn't seem like the best choice either (for a non-professional).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, is that just all in my head, or is there some cause for concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OzMjp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hands on hoods while biking&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also, is there any reaction speed data compared with flat handlebars, or other such studies, for this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd be most worried about situations where I need to react quickly, as well as situations that are usual but I need to be consistent in my braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat handlebars are like second nature to me, would those be safer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="6678" LastEditDate="2020-10-02T13:09:44.190" LastActivityDate="2020-10-02T16:43:21.827" Title="Is having your hands &quot;on the hoods&quot; of drop handlebars safe for braking?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15765" CreationDate="2013-05-16T18:41:23.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, about the big steps between gears: you should really go on a test ride to see how you like shifting on a bike with such big steps between gears. For some people it's not a big deal, for others, it's a major annoyance. I don't think anyone else can make that kind of qualitative decision for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Gear Calculator&lt;/a&gt;, I calculated some approximate ratios for the gears you use most commonly. I don't have the exact wheelbase or BCD for your bike, but here are the approximate ratios for the gears you mentioned using most often:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;48 / 14: 6.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;38 / 26: 2.9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;38 / 34: 2.3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some decent range that you use there. FWIW, my 1970's Motobecane Nomade with a 52/40 crankset and a 14x28 rear cluster covers a range down from 7.5 down to 2.8. That's good for your average commute, but leaves you without the bailout gear for when you have a really tough climb. It's back to the problem you originally stated -- it's all about whether you want the bailout gears or not. From a purely functional standpoint, however, the compact crank is not a bad idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really interested in getting a bike with the gearing range that you have one your current touring model, you should run the numbers through the aforementioned gear calculator. Note that the calculator also shows the percentage increase/decrease between gears (as stated earlier, lower % increase typically makes for a smoother riding experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6947" LastEditorUserId="6947" LastEditDate="2013-05-18T07:02:27.397" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T07:02:27.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15770" CreationDate="2013-05-16T18:45:03.190" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute every day in SF with drop bars. It's not an issue for me. You quickly adapt to the hand position, if you bike is set up in a way that is comfortable for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real safety issue you should be worried about, IMHO is not braking itself, but rather the &quot;heads-down&quot; position you can be in on the bike itself. You have to get used to looking around you/behind you for cars, etc. That's why your position/comfort on the bike is so important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also install cross/interrupter levers for a second braking position option, usually at a nominal cost (not sure if this works with your particular breaking system). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6947" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T18:45:03.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15770" CreationDate="2013-05-16T19:02:22.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an understandable feeling...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a matter of fact I had the same which is why I got flat bars to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched to drops some time later which cost me a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, the braking is awkward to begin with but you get used to it. I won't lie to you, it's never better, nor even is &quot;as good&quot; as on flat bars, but it's more than enough to react fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you know you need strong braking (riding very fast downhill for example), you go down on the drops a have better leverage on the levers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the pros of drops are way too strong to use flats... The biggest is the multiple hand positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T19:02:22.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15766" CreationDate="2013-05-16T19:27:51.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a Sky Mounti inclinometer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vnQb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not terribly accurate, and not much use on rough pavement, but it gives you an immediate readout that doesn't &quot;smooth over&quot; the ups and downs the way that maps will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I should state that it has a problem on level ground -- the faster you go (especially on rough pavement) the higher it reads.  But get on a grade over 4-5% and it seems to be fairly stable &amp;amp; reproducible.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-05-17T01:41:22.493" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T01:41:22.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15741" CreationDate="2013-05-16T22:15:06.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;thanks for inadvertently clearing up my own problem on my bike with what i now know to be cross chaining. I just had my freewheel and chain swapped out and am finding that small/small is causing the chain to rub on the inside face of the big ring. Funnily it isn't a combo i ever use but i just thought it a tad annoying when i noticed it and put it down to replacing a Shimano freewheel with a supposedly compatible Sunrace. Back to the point, at times i like to put more torque into the bike by selecting a slightly stiffer gear whilst on the big ring. It does give me something extra in terms of strength and stamina development on short to intermediate rides but i imagine it ain't a good idea on longer rides where efficiency and endurance are desired. i also imagine that the extra torque will stretch the chain quicker than if you ride more often in a more efficient gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6906" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T22:15:06.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16167" CreationDate="2013-05-17T05:50:30.427" Score="3" ViewCount="5303" Body="&lt;p&gt;Characteristics of the following bars for MTB are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;• 780mm wide&#xA;• 30mm rise&#xA;• 5˚ up-sweep &#xA;• 7˚ back-sweep&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://gp1.pinkbike.org/p4pb9591458/p4pb9591458.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know what effects do the width and rise have on the feel and riding. But what about upsweep and backsweep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the last 2 years I've been using bars with 3x9 sweep (compared to the above's 5x7). What difference would it make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.390" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T19:58:05.290" Title="upsweep and backsweep for mtb handlebars" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15781" CreationDate="2013-05-17T07:15:15.300" Score="0" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at buying an electric bike (possible the smart ebike) -- these are not cheap. So I began to look at locks and stuff and -- these are ridiculous! 3.5-4kg even 6kg for a chain?? How do people take these things with them? I heard you should wear them like a belt but I can't quite imagine how would that work without bruising myself with the chain not to mention the padlock And then the suggestions go for two locks so I guess I would need another monstrously heavy U-lock as well. Really, how do people with multiple thousand dollars bike protect their ride when they park it in front of a cafe, cinema, school?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6928" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-05-17T08:01:35.413" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T16:46:01.053" Title="Good locks seem awfully heavy" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2013-05-17T20:17:24.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15780" CreationDate="2013-05-17T07:53:59.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lightest lock I have found which I see as &quot;strong enough&quot; is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Abus-U-Mini-401-Yellow-80x145mm/dp/B005ZA8BSS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Abus 401&lt;/a&gt; d-lock, which weighs in at approximately 1kg. Might that be light enough for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when I say &quot;strong enough&quot;, what I actually mean is that this lock has a &quot;Sold Secure Gold&quot; rating - this is a scheme used by the UK insurance industry, which basically means that if I attach my bike to something using this lock and the bike is subsequently stolen, then my insurance company will cough up. As far as I am aware this is the lightest lock to meet this standard, and I know of no lightweight chain that I would consider appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I am concerned bike locks have two purposes. First, to deter. Second, to make sure the insurance company pays out should the worst happen. They will &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; prevent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now having said that I almost never use this lock. This is because when I am out on a leisure ride, I hardly ever park the bike up. If I know I'm going to make a stop, or if I'm touring, I will carry this lock, but not otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my bikes are at home, they're secured by (insurance approved) anchors to the garage floor by those heavy chains and d-locks that you've already discovered (in general I like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?cat=BicycleSecurity&amp;amp;mod=By%20Category&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kryptonite Fahgeddaboutit&lt;/a&gt; range which will deter and are insurance approved). But those locks live in the garage and don't travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am commuting, I keep a set of locks at each end. Works out expensive but as you say, they're heavy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, I mix a chain and a d-lock, both conforming to this Sold Secure Gold standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note lastly that I make absolutely no claim that &quot;Sold Secure Gold&quot; locks are any good at what they do! In fact I've heard others say that its just a scam. But they keep the insurance company happy, that's all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-05-22T16:46:01.053" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T16:46:01.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15780" CreationDate="2013-05-17T08:53:04.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carry the chain wrapped around seat post and locked on the rack. It tends to scratch the paint on the frame that way though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T08:53:04.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14915" CreationDate="2013-05-17T09:51:49.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some more investigation I have found 2 more interesting options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helicopter tape (Clear protective urethane self adhesive film)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plasti Dip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T09:51:49.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15780" CreationDate="2013-05-17T11:28:53.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think we had an earlier question on this and I broke it down based on what you're trying to prevent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spur of the moment theft by an unprepared perp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Targeted theft by a perp with some tools but no time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Targeted theft by a perp well-prepared with tools and with time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first you only need a very lightweight lock -- I use a piece of plastic-covered aircraft cable about 1/4&quot; in diameter and a standard padlock.  This could be defeated by someone with good cable cutters, though aircraft cable (available at hardware stores) is remarkably resistant to cutting with simple wire cutters or bolt cutters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second I use a commercially-available bicycle cable with a standard padlock.  This can be cut through with bolt cutters, but it takes more than a few seconds.  (The padlock may be more vulnerable than the cable, with the right bolt cutters.)  Another option is a U lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing really that will deter the third (especially if equipped with a battery-powered angle grinder), other than not parking your bike in such a vulnerable location (or such a seedy neighborhood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do wish someone would make a cable lock with loosely braided cable.  If the cable braid is loose it becomes much harder to cut through -- resistant to both bolt cutters and angle grinder.  But likely it wouldn't &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; as strong, and hence there's a marketing problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also note that a lock doesn't prevent someone from stealing your seat, your pedals, brake components, etc.  And of course you always need to somehow lock your front wheel.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T11:28:53.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15770" CreationDate="2013-05-17T11:43:04.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding «on the hoods» give you advantage viewing all around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute every day through the hard Moscow traffic with  speed of 20mph  (32kph) and I always have enough time to stop if I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, braking is often needless — only at the traffic lights and if some driver had decided to change a line and forgot to look into mirrors — rare situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastEditorUserId="425" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T09:29:51.643" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T09:29:51.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15780" CreationDate="2013-05-17T11:54:27.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/Home.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kryptonite&lt;/a&gt; «New-York 3000» lock (≈ $130) which weights about 2 kg (4 lbs) for my commuter (≈ $1500). It has a frame mount which works very well.&#xA;I usually lock the frame and tho wheels to the bike parking (need to unmount front wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T11:54:27.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15770" CreationDate="2013-05-17T11:55:32.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a question of ergonomics. Ensure you try out the levers before you buy them. Depending on the size of your hands you may find braking awkward from the hoods. I tried Shimano brifters and found I couldn't comfortably operate the brakes from the hoods (I have smaller than average hands). It felt like the pivot point was too low, so that unless I reached far down the lever with my middle finger I didn't get much, erm, leverage. The top part of the hood is also fatter with Shimano, so this might have been a factor too. This was the main reason I chose Campagnolo brifters, which I found much more comfortable on the hoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt there is a difference in reaction speed to apply the brakes, but bad ergonomics may affect how hard you can apply them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's certainly true that you get more power when braking in the drops, but that isn't a comfortable position for long periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer not to take my drop-bar bike in traffic and generally take the hybrid (flat bar) if towns are involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T11:55:32.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15690" CreationDate="2013-05-17T12:19:51.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Touring → fenders. So, you need enough space for the rear fender. That's why a bottom-pull design is preferred.&#xA;Most of the touring bikes designed to use this type of derailleurs.&#xA;About high clamp/low clamp/braze on — this is frame-specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T12:19:51.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2013-05-17T12:34:00.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a project on Kick Starter that looks like exactly what you're looking for: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/332999904/the-siva-cycle-atom-powering-your-life-one-pedal-a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Siva Cycle Atom&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The funding ends May 23rd 2013, and they should start shipping towards the end of 2013. So if you miss the window to be a Kick Starter backer, you should be able to pick one up directly form them around then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T12:34:00.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15779" CreationDate="2013-05-17T12:55:05.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if my math is correct here, but using a triangle solver, and assuming that the up-sweep and backsweep act over a distance of 250 mm, (390 is half the bar, minus a bit for the middle part) the difference between 3 degrees and 5 degrees for the upsweep translates to 9 mm difference in rise, and the different between 7 degrees and 9 degrees for backsweep also translates to 9 mm difference (same difference in angles). Since the backsweep is less on the new bars your reach will be 9 mm longer, and the upsweep is higher on the new bars so the bars will be 9 mm higher.  How this affects your ride I cannot say.  Probably won't make a whole lot of difference, since the longer reach will be cancelled out a bit by the higher bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T12:55:05.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15780" CreationDate="2013-05-17T13:27:28.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a hip pouch with a u-lock holster built in. Keep your bike tools in it, and then put your u-lock in there. Alternatively you can get a u-lock braket for your frame, but I don't like them because the extra weight makes my bike slower to toss around, I prefer the weight on my body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not using a u-lock (or a hardened steel chain) is asking to have your bike stolen in most cities. Using quick release wheels is just asking to have them quickly stolen off a well locked frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only takes someone a minute with a bolt cutter, or a few minutes with an angle grinder to steal just about any bike.  Most often, it's making it less desirable to steal YOUR bike versus OTHER PEOPLES bikes. If a thief doesn't have to work too hard to steal the bike down the street, he'll probably skip yours unless he has targeted your ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T13:27:28.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2013-05-17T16:07:08.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the easiest way to fix your problem is to reduce the amount of power the GPS on your phone is using. By default, most GPS tracking programs eat up an enormous amount of battery because they default to maximum-accuracy settings. However, if you're going on long enough bike rides that you are worrying about battery life, you can probably afford to turn down these settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to do this is different with each of the different tracking apps, so I can't tell you exactly how to fix this, but if you dig around in the settings for a while you should find something. I know that the two apps I've used (Runtastic and My Tracks) have both allowed me to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6952" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T16:07:08.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2013-05-17T16:55:36.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might look at just upgrading your current approach—a lithium battery based cell phone charger (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=new+trent+battery&amp;amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Anew+trent+battery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like the popular New Trent ones&lt;/a&gt;) generally go a lot further than AA based ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T16:55:36.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15681" CreationDate="2013-05-17T17:05:47.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, that sound is caused, not by the hub, but because the tire is rubbing against the brake pads. This can happen if the tire is slightly out of alignment or isn't properly trued, or if the brakes got accidentally bumped while riding (depending on your type of brakes). Try spinning your tire and watching it move between the brake pads, and you should see some wobble to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, try removing the wheel and putting it back on (spin it again before tightening it in, and adjust it accordingly). If that doesn't do enough, try adjusting the brake pads (a different procedure depending on what type of brakes you have, so I can't really elaborate). If it's still giving you trouble, then the wheel is misshapen, and needs to be re-trued, which is probably best done by a bike shop, but isn't too hard to figure out on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6952" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T17:05:47.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16600" CreationDate="2013-05-17T19:07:29.060" Score="4" ViewCount="8960" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's best to buy through fitting a bike in store, it's not always possible (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/2476/6678&quot;&gt;discussed here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some websites, the &lt;strong&gt;stand-over height of a bike may not be listed&lt;/strong&gt; as part of the specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, simple geometry would dictate that there must be a way to calculate the stand-over height from knowing the &lt;strong&gt;frameset's tube lengths and angles&lt;/strong&gt;, as well as the &lt;strong&gt;wheel diameter&lt;/strong&gt; alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there more to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, taking the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/cross/day-one/day-one-disc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Genesis Day One Disc&lt;/a&gt; in the 60 cm variant as an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOplg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Genesis Day One Disc - Stand-Over&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat tube (centre-top): 600mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Effective Top Tube: 575mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head Tube: 185mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head Angle: 71.5°&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat Angle: 74°&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain Stay: 415mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;BB Drop: 64mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stem Length: 110mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;H/Bar Width: 44cm&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's more or less OK, but what size are the wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hubs: KT-SY1F / KT-MX7R 6-Bolt Disc &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rims: Alex XD-Lite Disc 32H&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires: Continental Cyclocross Race 35c (wire)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know the standover in order to determine clearance between my crotch and the top tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T15:24:22.497" Title="How to calculate bike stand-over height using frameset geometry and wheel radius?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="488" CreationDate="2013-05-17T21:41:15.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i'm glad i'm not the only one that needs a little bit of help deciding on an indoor bike trainer.  I'm pretty new into cycling but i've really started to love it, which is why I think I need an indoor bike trainer now, I'm addicted!!  I've been looking around and I need some suggestions, I found this site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.squidoo.com/best-indoor-bike-trainer-stands-mats-risers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.squidoo.com/best-indoor-bike-trainer-stands-mats-risers&lt;/a&gt; and I really like the Forza F-2 Model and I was curious if any of you guys have had experience with that model or forza and if it's a pretty reliable brand.  any help would be great, thanks guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6956" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T21:41:15.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10236" CreationDate="2013-05-17T22:30:52.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming, as the questioner did, that we are not considering cabling and such, Whether or not to put the stem facing forward or backwards depends on the handlebar shape and placement as well as where you hold the handlebar.  I think the physics of bicycle stability is pretty complicated, in any case.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be analogies between holding an automobile steering wheel at the &quot;10 and 2&quot; o'clock positions versus the &quot;8 and 4&quot; o'clock positions (or even one-handed at the 6 o'clock.  In the car, though, we &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; don't use the steering wheel to support ourselves, except during cornering.  If you are making a hard turn to the right in a car, then your body will shift to the left. If you are holding the upper part of the wheel (10/2), then that body shift will help pull the steering wheel back towards the center.  But if you are holding the bottom of the steering wheel (6 position), then the harder you turn, the more your body will cause the steering wheel to turn &lt;em&gt;even more to the right&lt;/em&gt;.  So, holding the upper part of the wheel would be more &quot;stable&quot; than the bottom, especially in an emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bike, we do put weight on the handlebars a whole lot more, and emergencies can throw us from the bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without holding onto the handlebars (or very lightly), the weight of our body and the bike serves to help keep the front wheel tending to point straight forward because of the way the fork is at an angle and the way the wheel axle is off the axis of the steering tube/headset.  At the same time, there is a force of, say, road or hub friction that pushes the front wheel to twist towards the back.  The angle and weight &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; overpower the push back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's now suppose that we have a somewhat standard stem, facing forwards.  Now also suppose that instead of riding without holding the bars, you ride by holding onto the end of the stem that clamps onto the handlebar, right in the middle of the bars.  If you are putting your weight on the bars, as it a road bike I think, then you are probably pushing forward.  This would basically make a force to make the wheel face straight forward.  However, if you &lt;strong&gt;reversed&lt;/strong&gt; the stem and held it in the same way, then when pushing, it would tend to swing the stem around making it turn either one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When braking, this force of pushing on the handlebars would become even greater, even if you are riding a &quot;cruiser&quot; (where more of your resting weight would be on your butt).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, we &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; don't ride single handed (or no-handed).  And so each hand can serve to balance the push of the other.  If we have a backwards-facing stem, and our hands very close together, as in those stylish messenger handlebars, then braking would be very dangerous because it would be almost like riding one-handed and the bike would suddenly turn whenever you braked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                             In all diagrams, the      ^&#xA;                             forward direction is UP,  |&#xA;                             looking down on bike.&#xA;&#xA;                O         &amp;lt;- &quot;O&quot; means steering tube axis.&#xA;                |                                    &#xA;                |              &#xA;             ---o---      &amp;lt;- &quot;o&quot; is the stem clamp to the handlebar.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, even with forward-facing stems, we do see hand placement that is behind the steering tube in cruiser or beach bikes or dutch bikes (as mentioned by user Kibbee), yet they are somehow safe (motorcycles also often have the grips behind the steering axis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;      ____------o------____               &#xA;    --          |          --       &#xA;   /            |            \   &#xA;  /             O             \  &#xA; /                             \  &#xA;/                               \&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This (above) situation is, I can only guess, safe because the hands are so widely spaced from each other that they balance out.  Additionally, maybe it's because you put less weight on your hands in bikes that use these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those narrow messenger bars, they are actually relatively difficult to change direction compared to mountain bikes because you don't have much leverage on the turning and because the hands serve mostly to keep you aiming straight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;             ---o---&#xA;                |&#xA;                |                                    &#xA;                O              &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal mountain handlebars are just wider, but that gives you a lot more leverage and control:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  ________------o------________               &#xA;                |               &#xA;                |          &#xA;                O             &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the most &quot;maneuverable&quot; and &quot;twitchy&quot; bars would be something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  --------------O-------------- &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other handlebar setup, for reference, are below.  These others also offer multiple hand placement, so the twitchiness and handling would be different depending on where you hold them.  These tend to have grip locations ahead of the steer tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop and/or mustache handlebars, where it's been a bit &quot;squished&quot; so we see the drops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    _                        _&#xA;   / \                      / \&#xA;   | |                      | |&#xA;   | |                      | |&#xA;   | \----------o----------/  |              &#xA;   |            |             |&#xA;                |             &#xA;                O                &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trekking / butterfly handlebars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  _--------_____o_____--------_&#xA; /              |              \&#xA; \_____----     |     ----_____/   &#xA;                O             &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There does not seem to be a strict rule of whether hands forward, at, or rear of the steering axis makes a particular situation safe or dangerous.  In &lt;strong&gt;general&lt;/strong&gt;, there seems to be a mix of influences on handling (and danger from turning-when-braking) depending on such things as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how forward/backwards the hand placement is,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how wide the hand placement is,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;geometry of the bike (angle of steering tube, axle location for front wheel, etc.),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whether you have more resting weight on hands or not,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;riding one-handed as when signalling a turn (or no-handed),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;braking using one-hand (this almost threw me from my own bike), using coaster brakes, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;braking front vs. rear wheel (may depend on which hand in single-handed riding)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-05-17T22:39:04.437" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T22:39:04.437" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15800" CreationDate="2013-05-17T23:49:24.250" Score="3" ViewCount="5287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the no-name brake calipers on my bike with Ultegras today.  Am I correct in thinking the rear brake housing is too long and needs to be shortened?  And if so, how do I determine how much to remove other than trial and error?  (With one of the errors being too much.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ecFdg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T12:14:43.403" Title="Brake cable housing too long?" Tags="&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-18T00:57:29.943" Score="4" ViewCount="9906" Body="&lt;p&gt;About one year ago, when I first started cycling, I noticed that during long trips (60km or more) I get skin burns on the inside of my quads. That is when I decided to buy myself a nice pair of cycling shorts with nice padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read in several forums that in order to minimize the friction, one needs a very tight fit of the shorts and also underwear was a no-no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this remedy has stopped working for me. Now I am going to try to put some Kinesio tape on the skin, when the most friction is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is not wearing an underwear a bad idea? What can I do to prevent skin burn in that delicate area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarification:&#xA;I have always been using my stock GIANT saddle, that I would categorize as a medium size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6097" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T18:59:26.117" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T03:01:06.133" Title="How can I avoid thigh chafing despite already wearing cycling shorts?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15798" CreationDate="2013-05-18T12:14:43.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The curve above the brake looks like it is crimping down on the cable, so yeah, it is too long. The curve coming out of the cable stop is about the curve that you want going from the stop to the brake (but curving down rather than up). And it is ALWAYS better to be slightly longer than shorter, you can all ways cut it if it is long, but too short and you need another housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to measure the housing is with the cable out. I would drop the adjuster almost all the way down (leave a few threads showing so you can adjust it down if you need); remove the cable, chop an inch or so (from this shot I would maybe even do 2 inches), replace the housing and look to see if there is a gentle curve. Chop a little at a time until it looks right, then put the cable back in and tighten everything down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T12:14:43.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-18T13:23:45.497" Score="1" ViewCount="1274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek 4500 with a Shimano FC-M330 crankset. I need to replace the crankset and was hoping that someone could tell me the current replacement. I believe that I have narrowed it down to the FC-M410, but I am a newbie but wanting to get into serviceing my bike myself.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6958" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T19:47:03.843" Title="FC-M330 replacement" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15755" CreationDate="2013-05-18T16:23:40.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's instructive to consider what things can change and what things can't as a bike is sized up or down.  Obviously, the tubes can be made longer or shorter.  Stems can be made with more or less &quot;reach&quot;.  But wheels only come in discrete sizes, and there generally are not fine variations in size for cranks, handlebars, brake levers, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are limited possible variations in BB width, eg, so cranks are apt to be too far apart for someone who's 5-2 and too close together for someone who's 6-8.  (Not that it matters that much, since the person who's 5-2 can't operate the brake levers anyway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T16:23:40.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15801" CreationDate="2013-05-18T19:47:03.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's actually kind of tough to say whether or not that's an exact match based on the model numbers alone because Shimano often makes a couple variations of a given model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, cranksets are more or less universal (at least, more so than things like shifters and derailleurs). There are only a couple of things that you need to watch out for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need it to work with your chain. If you have a 9-speed chain, you want to get a 9-speed crankset. If you're not sure what you have, count the rear gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You probably want the same number of gears. It's possible to switch to a two-speed crank, but since you mention that you're a newbie, it's probably more hassle than you want to get into. Single speed may be possible too, but it's even more of a hassle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want approximately the same number of teeth. Derailleurs have a minimum and maximum chainring size that they'll work with. You'll have some range though and if you decide to change to a bigger or smaller crankset you'll probably have to move the derailleur up or down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need it to match your bottom bracket spindle. It looks like those are both square taper, so you should be good there. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do need to replace the bottom bracket as well you'll want to make sure that the one you get is the right size for your bottom bracket shell. They're usually 68mm or 73mm. Some bottom brackets will fit either size. You'll also probably want the same spindle length. You have some leeway with a geared bike, but it's easier to just make sure it all matches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within those constraints, you'll find that you have a whole lot of options. One of those options is probably the crankset that you're looking at, but you'll have to check all that stuff to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T19:47:03.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15805" CreationDate="2013-05-18T20:03:15.093" Score="14" ViewCount="8997" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a bike lock and, in 2013, Kryptonite have a new lock, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=000792&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Evolution Series 4 Mini Chain&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eCUMx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain is quoted as being only 55 cm long, and 10 mm thick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the blue mark below a correct interpretation for the reported thickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BRCb9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thickness of lock chain link&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To actually manage to remove the lock, &lt;strong&gt;would you have to cut through a single link completely in two places?&lt;/strong&gt; See the red marked below: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dCN62.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cutting the Kryptonite Evolution Mini Chain&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, then that would require cutting through 20 mm of manganese steel — &lt;strong&gt;exceeding the 18 mm thickness of the Kryptonite &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=997986&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fahgettaboudit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that is often regarded as one of the best D-locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when considering cutting, &lt;strong&gt;is the Evolution Mini Chain is actually more secure?&lt;/strong&gt; (With the added benefit of being more flexible than a D-lock.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if cut only once, &lt;strong&gt;would the chain link bend enough to allow the other to slip through?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="6678" LastEditDate="2013-05-18T20:09:25.023" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T06:36:14.863" Title="Can a chain-lock be better against cutting than a U-lock?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15804" CreationDate="2013-05-18T21:55:05.407" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for the Kryptonite, cutting one side an bending is certainly possible, but in reality if you can cut one side, you use the same tools to cut the other. The tools needed to bend the link after cutting one side are almost certainly not portable, and why would you carry two tools when one will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison to the D-lock--if you can cut though 18mm, you can cut through 20. It will make no difference. The main difference is a D-lock is susceptible to different tools to a chain. For real security - use both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reality is if they want it, it's theirs, and there's sweet nothing you can do about it. &#xA;The job of your lock is to make your bike less desirable than the one next to it. If you bike is a $10K dream machine, that's going to be a tough job--you will need so much heavy metal it will weight more than the cheapest supermarket hack, and take so long to secure the time saving you get riding it is lost at each end of the journey. If its a $100 hack, then any half decent lock will be good enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best you can do in reality is &quot;enough to satisfy your insurance company&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3911" LastEditDate="2018-05-01T06:36:14.863" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T06:36:14.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15799" CreationDate="2013-05-18T23:35:47.290" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it's on the inside of your thighs, it's a good bet that our seat is too wide, or not properly adjusted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chamois crème will help, but I think the saddle change is a better idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T23:35:47.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15765" CreationDate="2013-05-18T23:38:33.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference between 28 and 30 is only about 8%. If you climbed a hill at 70 RPM on a 28, you would only be riding at 75% on a 30, and your force would only go down a little bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T23:38:33.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-19T16:55:26.613" Score="3" ViewCount="1542" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my rear derailleur and front shifter have stopped working together, my shift can shift once up and then nothing. My bike has essentially turned itself into a 2 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shifter is a 2300 shifter and the derailleur is a 105, both compatible with each other and my 8sp cassette (I know this because it has been working fine for a year).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the other night I moved my cable because it was kinda blocking my light and then all of a sudden my derailleur and my shifter had disengaged and I was stuck in 1st gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought possibly the cable had slipped from the rear derailleur and that was the issue so I tried adjusting it with no improvement (in fact I made it slightly worse because I am now stuck in my highest gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question I suppose is, how do I figure out if it is the derailleur or the shifter and does anyone have any idea how to fix it? The shifters seem like black magic since I can't really see what they do and all the mechanisms and screws are hidden away. I may need to replace the cable as I have kinda messed it up and got it all frayed and prickly (lost the nipple), how difficult a job is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6966" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T00:11:48.453" Title="Rear derailleur and front shifter are not indexing &quot;together&quot;?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15721" CreationDate="2013-05-19T18:20:25.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar 1995 Cannondale M-900 in Vipper Red color version.  Some original parts have breen replaced but for original ones, trying to maintain muy bike in its optimal and original condition. I am proud of that and like very much to ride on my old but pretty M-900. To bring a very old bike onto a mew era is not only very expensive but thecnically almost impossibe. I recomend to buy a new one for your kid. &#xA;Orlando&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6968" LastActivityDate="2013-05-19T18:20:25.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-19T21:10:16.767" Score="1" ViewCount="2627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a used mid 1990s Serotta Colorado CSI (lugged steel) bike. It is a size 54L which in Serottas from that era means it has a 54 seat tube but a 55 top tube. The size was not intentional, it was what was on offer, and I grabbed it at a good price. I do fit on most 53-54 cm bikes well though I can also go with 56 cm in some cases. I am 5 ft 10 inches tall. Coming to it from a hybrid and having this as my first road bike makes me want to adopt a more upright posture than is traditional for a road bike. I raised the Ritchey quill stem it came with as high as it will safely go but am still seeking an easier reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of getting a long quill stem and using that to go higher. I am also contemplating getting one with a shorter reach (it can come with as little as 50 mm reach. I intend to start with the stem higher up and go gradually down as I get more used to a traditional road bike posture. I am OK with having to buy another stem later (or reuse the Ritchey quill stem I am currently using) as the season progresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I thinking along the right lines? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I consider another reach for the stem other than the shortest (50 mm)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of a quill stem due to the easier adjustment on the fly and since it is more appropriate for bikes from that era.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately most LBS do not have many quill stems in stock so I may have one ordered online, or ask the LBS to order it, before asking for it to be installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T01:43:57.387" Title="Long Quill Stem?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-19T21:19:21.647" Score="10" ViewCount="13235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find good quality but not exorbitantly expensive platform pedals for a road bike. I tried Shimano SPD, but ended up concluding that for me it was more of a deathtrap. I did end up falling with the SPD; fortunately the only injury was to my pride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions as to a good quality, lightweight, road platform pedals. I would prefer to keep it under US$ 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T05:55:31.817" Title="Good Quality Road Platform Pedals?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15765" CreationDate="2013-05-20T00:34:41.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can, find the approximate gradient of hills you want to climb/train on and estimate your power to weight ratio. For 7% climb 34/25 (front/back) is good combination if you have power weight ratio &gt;= 4. With less power, or more weight/load, just get the biggest cassette allowed by the rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you can maintain about 60 rpm or higher on long 7% climb and that's good for training. Just upshift when you want to train at lower rpm. &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle2max.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cycle2max.com/&lt;/a&gt; can help giving some ideas how a climb like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T00:34:41.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15813" CreationDate="2013-05-20T01:51:34.303" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flat pedals are great for lots of reasons, but I won't get into the virtues or pitfalls of platforms versus toe clips versus clipless systems (though I am a big fan of plain old platform pedals.) I will try to give information pertaining to the different styles and a few examples rather than an exhaustive list of specific brands and prices. There are lots and lots of different models which are mostly variations on two themes: rat trap quill pedals and one-piece platform pedals. None are perfect, but many are cheaper and easier to use/maintain than clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3H0LT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MKS Sylvan&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bDUTN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VO Road&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Classic rat trap pedals have been around for a long time - one or two metal sides secured to a central body and quill (there were lots of poor quality pedals spec'd on bikes back in the day, but modern ones are generally of decent quality.) Variations use the same style of construction to much the same effect. Some people balk at using pedals without sealed bearings, but bearing maintenance on pedals is probably the easiest to tackle and shouldn't be an issue for most people. The VO Road pedals above use sealed bearings, while the MKS Sylvans use loose bearings. I would say they are both of reasonably high quality. They accept toe clips and reflectors and other forms of toe retention and are super easy to use (platforms on both sides so you can't miss.) A few brands make pedals that fold up so as to not catch on anything (MKS FD-7s...important if you have to carry your bike indoors frequently.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two drawbacks: these pedals are generally not as grippy as some others, noticeably in the rain/snow. Second is that the construction can be felt through thin shoes. In Chuck Taylors with thin socks I found the dip in the MKS Sylvans to be a bit uncomfortable. Generally folks don't mind it, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MjTx3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Track Pedals&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Track pedals are narrower and only have a platform on one side as they're intended to be used solely with toe clips and straps. These are great if you love toe clips, but there is no back side to the pedal so they're somewhat limited in flexibility. On the plus side, they're lightweight and narrow so that you can clear obstacles (cars, curbs, doorways, people's ankles...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UemEP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VO Touring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also many machined and forged one-piece pedals based on the above designs (plastic versions I've seen are not worth consideration.) Velo Orange Touring pedals are surprisingly light weight and use sealed bearings (their narrower Urban pedal would be comparable in width to a track pedal but still has two useable sides.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B8Yj7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMX Pedals&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VYUE9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cruiser&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMX style platform pedals are super popular and work for lots of people. The cheaper ones are probably the most affordable/functional pedals out there. These pedals range from fat and chunky plastic to graceful CNC aluminum (and there are lots of garish colors out there for those into color-coordination.) Some of these pedals have provisions for reflectors and most allow for strap-type foot retention (but not toe clips.) The more expensive pedals will have sealed bearings, but you generally get what you pay for. The big benefit of this style of pedal is that they have a nice flat platform with lots of grip. Metal platforms frequently have pins set into the tops to add grip which, if you've ever ridden these pedals in shorts, leads to frequent bloody shins (so avoid expensive pants or delicate leg skin.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cruisers and utility bikes will sometimes have plastic or composite pedals with rubberized tops that don't tear your shins into ribbons. I have a set of VP 001 Thin Gripsters and they're great for commuting and hauling around town. They do have sharp little nubbins, but I can deal with it as they're really shine in the rain and snow. They're noticeably thinner than other platforms (hence the name) but they're wide and long so I never misstep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big drawback to these pedals is that they're heavy and wide (plus the bloody shins, but I covered that.) The weight is a compromise in any case, but the width can sometimes be a real problem i.e. a low bottom bracket with long cranks will dig your pedal into the pavement while cornering. Similarly, riding a bike with lots of toe overlap on the front wheel will lead to endless suffering in tight places. These can be avoided with careful maneuvering but will surprise the unawares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T01:51:34.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-20T04:53:17.773" Score="8" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the bike used, so I am not sure what chain lube was used in the past. I used Tri-flow Superior Lubricant once but may wish to experiment with other lubes in the future (Finish Line Teflon, White Lightning Epic Ride, Finish Line 1-Step). Are the different lubes compatible with each other? Should I use Finish Line 1-Step in between? I do not wish to degrease the chain each time, or for that matter ever, unless I absolutely have to. BTW it is a road bike, and it is now seeing about 70 miles a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastEditorUserId="6760" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T00:50:00.530" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T00:50:00.530" Title="Chain Lube Compatibility?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-20T09:27:57.067" Score="2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took out the bottom bracket to clean it etc taking off the pedal shafts etc - and when it came to putting it back - the front derailleur was well out of adjustment - Have I done something wrong&gt;- This is the first time I have taken out a bottom bracket. Thanks Ben  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6973" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T01:23:37.567" Title="Raleigh AT20 series bottom bracket affects derailleur" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15721" CreationDate="2013-05-20T12:24:46.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you're willing to buy all new componentry, so you have a lot of flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like there are many compatibility issues with it except the issue with disc brakes (rear wheel spacing is 135, front fork should be 1 1/8&quot;, Just get a new bottom bracket with your cranks).  I'd personally just put a disc in the front and then a good set of V-Brakes in the rear so you don't have to do some hack to retrofit discs in the rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, just grab a short travel front fork, a new wheelset, a 10 speed groupset with rapidfire shifters and should be pretty much up to modern spec for most parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out a vintage catalog for some original specs at&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintagecannondale.com/year/1995/1995.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vintagecannondale.com/year/1995/1995.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love keeping vintage gear on the road.  You'll probably wind up putting more money in to this than a decent entry level bike though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T12:24:46.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15763" CreationDate="2013-05-20T14:09:23.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can gather, you should do a few things when storing tubless tires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt; Pump them up to riding pressure before storing.&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Check the tire pressure every couple weeks and keep them pumped up so the bead stays sealed.&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Spin the tires regularly to keep the sealant mobile.&#xA;&lt;li&gt; If the tire looses it's seal while being stored or the sealant dries out then you may want to clean the rim and tire bead and add an ounce or two of fresh sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T14:09:23.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15460" CreationDate="2013-05-20T14:33:55.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can.&#xA;Front derailleurs are compatible, and you can use 10-speed oriented crankset with 8- or 9-speed chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T14:33:55.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-20T17:55:48.773" Score="4" ViewCount="5058" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fixed gear bicycle with a chain that gets periodically tight and loose as I complete a rotation of the pedals.  How do I center my chainring so that the chain has even tension throughout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6978" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T11:27:39.497" Title="Fixed Gear Chainring Centering" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15827" CreationDate="2013-05-20T17:55:48.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to provide an initial answer to this question with some resources that I have discovered and attempted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html#tension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Chainring Centering Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velowoodcyclery.wordpress.com/2011/04/14/centering-a-chainring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velowood Cyclery's Chainring Centering Guide (Updated)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic Strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the chainring bolts until they are finger-tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotate the chain until you reach the tightest section of the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strike the top of the chain lightly with a rubber mallet until you have loosened this tight section.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue to rotate and strike any tighter sections that you encounter, gradually softening your blows on subsequent strikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once your chainring is centered and no more tight spots are observed you can tighten the chainring bolts in a star pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Troubleshooting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If after several attempts you can't loosen a tight section there are two things you can check:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for a bent chainring / crank, or off-center bottom bracket (suggestions on how to do this?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for an unevenly worn or stretched chain&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a chain wear tool and measure the chain wear along the entire length of chain.  Lay the chain down on a piece of paper and write down the wear measurements for each area, then crossmatch those measurements with the tight spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6978" LastEditorUserId="6978" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T15:23:23.993" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T15:23:23.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15818" CreationDate="2013-05-20T18:15:21.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may run into issues if you apply radically different lubricants on top of each other.  You won't do any damage to the chain, but you might effectively use one lubricant to repel another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would cycle through the various lubes that you have mentioned you would like to experiment with during your normal maintenance window.  Every 1-2 months give the chain a good cleaning with a solid degreaser and then apply a fresh coat of the new lube that you would like to try.  You can then have discrete time periods where you know exactly what has been applied to your chain and a reasonable amount of time to measure the efficacy of the lube in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For degreasers you don't need to go crazy with spending a ton of money or time.  Simple green works wonderfully on a budget and there are bike specific ones (i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/citrus-chainbrite-cb-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool Chainbrite&lt;/a&gt;) if you want to spend more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6978" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T18:15:21.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15799" CreationDate="2013-05-20T20:57:29.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of changes you can make that can help, and I've found that it is a matter of personal preference what solution you ultimately choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creams and lubricants are very effective at preventing this rash, but they can be messy. Something as simple as Vaseline will work, though there are a number of other options out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be possible that you need to trade out your old seat, but this solution can tend to be hit-or-miss. If the seat is the problem, then replacing it will of course work, but there could be any number of potential issues that are causing it. It might be better to look into some more versatile solutions instead of spending money on a new seat only to find that it wasn't your problem in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option you can look into is synthetic underwear. It can aid in the dissipation of moisture, and provide an extra layer to help reduce the friction on your leg. I personally swear by the ExOfficio briefs, and have had no problems since switching over to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6952" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T20:57:29.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15813" CreationDate="2013-05-20T22:08:29.633" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you had a problem getting out of your SPD pedals, the pedal release tension was probably misset. If you are looking for clipless pedals, the SPD type is popular and the shoes are pretty easy to walk in. The Xpedo Mountain Force Magnesium/CroMo Clipless Pedals MF-4B are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double sided&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light (274 grams for the pair)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inexpensive ($83 on Amazon)&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/59jdS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a rider weight limit with them- around 185 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T22:08:29.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15860" CreationDate="2013-05-21T05:54:30.190" Score="2" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm tuning up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2010&amp;amp;brand=Giant&amp;amp;model=TCX%202&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2010 Giant TCX 2&lt;/a&gt; which has &lt;em&gt;Giant CR41, 32-hole rims&lt;/em&gt; as the only information I can find. There's nothing printed on the rims themselves either.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Right now it's using the &lt;em&gt;700 x 35c Kenda Small Block Eight folding 120TPI&lt;/em&gt; tyres that it came with but I'd like to change to slicks and have found some 28c's that are an amazing deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; I'm likely ok putting on 28c's since they fall within the range of rim where you'd find 35c's but not always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ability to measure this at home is limited by my lack of a ruler. Surely this information is available somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6486" LastEditorUserId="6486" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T21:32:35.717" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T01:44:09.263" Title="What is the width of Giant CR41, 32-hole rims" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15827" CreationDate="2013-05-21T13:13:47.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, apologies for the first comment. OP is a friend of mine and I intended to post that as a joke.  For some retribution here is some real advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check to see the drivetrain is real gritty or dirty, or the chain is worn out or unevenly stretched&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check to see if there is a bend in the chain ring:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   -take the ring off and lay it on a really flat surface&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   -If it wobbles like a chair with one short leg than you need to replace it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be one of these two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6979" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T13:13:47.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15840" CreationDate="2013-05-21T16:06:50.080" Score="18" ViewCount="7458" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like there are almost as many bike multi-tools out there as there are bikers. In a single trip to REI, I found nine different bike tools each ranging from only four to over thirty individual tools! But how many of these tools do I actually need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like some of the tools included in these multi-tools aren't really ever going to be necessary in the middle of a ride, but are actually better suited for at-home repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what tools do you actually need to carry with you, that you might actually need while out riding, and what tools are you can safely leave at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6952" LastEditorUserId="6952" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T17:12:59.227" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T20:27:22.397" Title="What tools on a multi-tool do I actually need?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;multi-tool&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="14" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15838" CreationDate="2013-05-21T16:32:38.093" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Minimally, you want to be able to tighten all of the bolts on your bike (likely a few hex keys will do this) and an appropriate screwdriver for adjusting derailer &amp;amp; brake pulls.  Separate from a multi-tool, a pair of tire levers are the other tool you should carry with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add a chain tool to the above list after being left in a state where I would have been much happier were I so equipped.  For that reason, I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000S6HZCC/ref=as_li_ss_til?tag=dinomitenet-20&amp;amp;camp=0&amp;amp;creative=0&amp;amp;linkCode=as4&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B000S6HZCC&amp;amp;adid=151V0CMQQDF0BNBX3D42&amp;amp;&quot;&gt;Crank Brothers Multi Tool 17&lt;/a&gt; which features the requisite hex keys, screwdrivers, and a chain tool, in package that is smaller &amp;amp; lighter than most Leatherman tools.  Some of the hex key sizes don't fit anything on my bike, but it's nice to have a set that can help most other riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T16:32:38.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15770" CreationDate="2013-05-21T17:46:42.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To complement the other answers here, I want to add that the only time I've ever felt that braking from the hoods is inadvisable is when doing fast mountain descents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In those cases, you can be going anywhere from 35–50mph and braking hard just before turns. If you're riding on the hoods, not only is your center of gravity higher, but you're also at a bad angle for braking your body with your arms (the brakes stop the &lt;em&gt;bike&lt;/em&gt;, and it's your connection to the bike that slows you down). Because of this, any time I'm descending I'm in the drops. This reduces the likelihood of going over the handlebars when braking hard by allowing me to push straight against the drops of the handlebars, rather than down and at an angle against the hoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="1442" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T18:47:34.100" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T18:47:34.100" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15838" CreationDate="2013-05-21T18:52:20.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have indicated, it depends on both your bike and the type of riding you're doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just tooling around town (get it, &quot;tooling&quot;?) with no particular destination or schedule, you can probably get away with not much more than a set of tire levers. A pump is handy too so that you don't have to walk your bike to a gas station if you get a flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're commuting, you may want a bit more. I carry the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/multi-tool-mt-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tools MT-1&lt;/a&gt; in my saddlebag along with a tube and a set of tire levers. It has enough to get me from A to B with the ability to solve minor problems inbetween, but it's not bulky and it's cheap enough that if somebody steals my saddle bag (which has happened to me three or four times) I'm not too distraught. My commuter is a single-speed so I also carry &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/small_parts/jethro_tule&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly's Jethro Tule&lt;/a&gt; for adjusting the rear wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On longer rides, you'll want even more. Like Drew Stephens, I'm a fan of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankbrothers.com/product/view/146&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crank Brothers Multi-17&lt;/a&gt;. You can do almost anything you're likely to need to do with this thing, albeit somewhat awkwardly in a few cases, but that's just the nature of multi-tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above advice probably applies to a short, weekend tour as well. However, if you're going to be straying too far from civilization or going longer than a night or two, you may want to consider carrying something beyond a multi-tool. There's really no substitute for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/sprocket-remover-chain-whip-sr-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain whip&lt;/a&gt; when you're stuck in the middle of nowhere. Same goes for crank and bottom bracket tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="7374" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T20:27:22.397" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T20:27:22.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7168" CreationDate="2013-05-21T19:37:44.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from what is said in the other answers about sizes and angles that are different on a folder, you must consider that small wheels need more airpressure in the tires than average wheels. The harder the tire the smoother the ride. I commute with a folder every day to the trainstation and as soon as the airpressure of the tires drops the bike gets sluggish and it feels like cycling against the wind. As soon as the tires have the right pressure it feels like having the wind in the back. I keep my 20&quot; wheels at 3 to 4 bars (don't know how much PSI that is sorry)&#xA;Yours,&#xA;Harm Linsen,&#xA;the Netherlands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6985" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T19:37:44.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15813" CreationDate="2013-05-22T00:59:55.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago I used SPD pedals and I really liked the increased performance, especially with the &quot;scraping the mud off your soles&quot; movement on the upstroke. However, as I got older and the padding on the bottom of my feet got thinner, my soles began to feel like they were on fire and I could barely walk after getting off my bike. Today, I found MY perfect soluction which is the flat platform pedal like the one above made by MKS (I got mine from Rivendell many years ago) with the addition of Powergrip Straps (see link below). I can wear my thick soled leather sneakers and pedal all day in comfort. The Powergrip Straps are as tight or loose as I want simply by moving the angle of my foot. Or I can just turn the pedal upside down and not use them at all. Please note there are two sizes of metal attachment which comes with the PowerGrip Strap. I have to use the longer one to accomodate my wide foot. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mountainracingproducts.com/power-grips/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mountainracingproducts.com/power-grips/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6867" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T00:59:55.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15766" CreationDate="2013-05-22T01:58:16.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Garmin Edge500.  I upload to the Garmin website, and the site shows a gradient map of the ride, among other things.  The grade and altitude measures do have some error.  But I can also monitor this during the ride and get a better idea of what various grades feel like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example of inaccuracy, a bunch of us who did the Santa Fe century on Sunday reported total climbing figures between 4700 and 5700 feet but clustering around 5300.  Maximum measured grade was 16% on the agonizing Heartbreak Hill, which seemed endless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your gearing will probably make more of a difference than your slope measures.  If in doubt, get the biggest freewheel cluster your derailleur will handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T01:58:16.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15838" CreationDate="2013-05-22T10:04:48.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One for every removeable or adjustable part on your bike (including tyres). With the exception of those you will be unable to repair/fix on the trail, such has hubs and bottom brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They need not all be combined with one tool though (sometimes individual tools can be lighter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T10:04:48.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15838" CreationDate="2013-05-22T10:57:02.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most modern bikes you will need a tool with at least 4, 5 and 6 hex wrenches and a phillips screwdriver. Make sure that the various bolts on your bike can be tightened by the tool you got. You will need a separate tire lever (usually two of them) to deal with flat tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T10:57:02.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15850" CreationDate="2013-05-22T11:49:18.183" Score="7" ViewCount="3290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently traveling to work by bike. I intent to by a new sport shoes and discovered that there is such thing like special cycling shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: Are they appropriate for wearing in the office, or I need to bring another pair of shoes and change before/after cycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: This seems reasonable for me (from Benzo answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;If your commute is short, you can always try your regular office shoes. They may not be 'optimal' for cycling, but you don't always have to have specialized gear to ride a bike. Do what works and what you're comfortable with.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4781" LastEditorUserId="4781" LastEditDate="2013-05-22T13:42:18.817" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T15:53:28.690" Title="Are cycling shoes comfortable as everyday wear?" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15849" CreationDate="2013-05-22T12:38:06.403" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you're using clipless pedals, you really don't need much in terms of special shoes for cycling.  However, there are plenty of advantages to using clipless pedals,  so many people choose to use them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big categories of clipless shoes are:&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road shoes tend to have the cleat exposed and you walk on it any time you step. This is really bad for regular wear off the bike. These shoes are meant to be lite and used on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Mountain Bike Shoes tend to allow you to walk around a bit.  Some models resemble athletic shoes and some are more firm and the stiff soles make it hard to walk normally. However, you can usually get buy walking a bit in these.  I wouldn't want to wear them for extended periods of time off the bike if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Urban Shoes (like Chrome and DZR) tend to look like sneakers and feel a lot more like regular shoes.  They still contain a cleat mount, but these shoes are designed to blend in like normal shoes and walk a bit better than most other cycling shoes.  I've worn Chrome and DZR shoes with SPD cleats around all day and didn't really notice much.  The soles are still stiff, so they are a bit different feeling than wakling around in regular shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pick up a pair of clipless shoes, you'll still probably want to swap them out for regular shoes at the office if you're going to be there for a few hours or more.  Regular shoes are going to be more comfortable and your cycling shoes might be a bit sweaty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not planning to pick up clipless shoes, then look for a pair of athletic shoes that doesn't have a lot of flex in the sole when you try to bend the toe downward. A flatter type of tread on the bottom of the shoe will probably help keep you from sliding on the pedals as much too.  Skateboard shoes and Adidas Sambas are generally pretty good choices, but pick what works for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your commute is short, you can always try your regular office shoes. They may not be 'optimal' for cycling, but you don't always have to have specialized gear to ride a bike. Do what works and what you're comfortable with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T12:38:06.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-22T13:08:13.757" Score="2" ViewCount="2378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano STX Crankset (probably FC-MC series or similar, around 2001) with worn out chainrings (5 Arms). Is there any contemporary replacement opportunity for either the chainrings or the whole crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6989" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T14:51:01.443" Title="Is there any replacement for the chainrings of a Shimano STX crankset?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15853" CreationDate="2013-05-22T13:17:24.687" Score="3" ViewCount="4859" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a child I was very active, and in a weight-lifting injury I damaged my Coccyx, making it very difficult to sit in the same position for long periods of time. As such, bicycling, what once was a staple joy in my life, has become painful. Is there a seat or frame design that takes pressure off the tail bone so that I can ride pain-free once again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6977" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T10:05:44.063" Title="Saddle or frame shape for painful Coccyx?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15852" CreationDate="2013-05-22T14:46:41.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good seat should put most of the pressure sitz bones rather than the tail bone. You'll probably want to look for something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rido-cyclesaddles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rido Saddle&lt;/a&gt; which has the back cut out and would probably minimize pressure on your coccyx. I can't say whether this type of saddle would work well for you, but in my mind it seems like it might do a good job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T14:46:41.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15851" CreationDate="2013-05-22T14:51:01.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just look for any chainrings that have the same &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bolt circle diameter&lt;/a&gt;, the same number of bolts, and are designed for the same number of gears that you currently have and you'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you may find that it's cheaper to simply replace the whole crankset than to buy individual chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T14:51:01.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15838" CreationDate="2013-05-22T15:35:46.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When choosing a tool consider:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this tool applicable for my bike?&lt;/strong&gt;  (If your bike doesn't have a 13mm nut then a 13mm wrench is pointless.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I know how to use the tool and do the repair?&lt;/strong&gt; (A spoke wrench is pointless if you don't know how to change spokes and tune the wheel to some degree. Also, you might need some supplies for repairs.  So without spokes the spoke wrench becomes useless.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does it make sense to do the repair on the road?&lt;/strong&gt;  (It might be easier to take it to a shop or home for repairs.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5513" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T15:35:46.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15635" CreationDate="2013-05-22T15:44:54.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the website of the ADFC bicycle club in Leipzig &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adfc-leipzig.de&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.adfc-leipzig.de&lt;/a&gt;. The &quot;Termine&quot; link has a list of their events including bike rides.  Also the &quot;Radtouren&quot;link might be of interest to you.  Of course everything is in the German language.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5513" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T15:44:54.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15849" CreationDate="2013-05-22T15:53:28.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also flat pedal specific cycling shoes, such as Five Ten (shown in the image). These are shoes with a special sticky rubber compound which offers better grip on platform pedals. I have not personally tried the model below, but flat pedal cycling shoes are generally more flexible than clipless cycling shoes, since they don't need to be stiff because the pedal already is. This means that they are similar to a normal shoe when walking, while still providing cycling specific benefits such as ankle protection and grippy sole compounds. These can be a worthy alternative if you want to use flat pedals and still have a pair of cycling shoes that are easy to walk in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Irowh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Five Ten Freerider VXi&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EWYqL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shoe sole&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T15:53:28.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15835" CreationDate="2013-05-23T01:44:09.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went and bought a ruler. It's 13mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm kind of surprised they'd stick a 35mm tyre on a 13mm rim out of the factory. I'm going to stick 700 x 28c conti GP 4 Seasons on it unless someone points out a clear reason not to. Sheldon Brown's guide says 25 should be a max for that rim, but it also grants a bit of room for error and this rim was fine with 35's...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means that CR41 isn't necessarily a material/feature code and it's possible the TCX and TCR use the exact same rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6486" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T01:44:09.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-23T05:33:45.490" Score="1" ViewCount="2002" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright -- this question isn't so much about locking up a bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are effective, practical ways to securely keep a bike, especially if you can't take it inside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some points or ideas that would be worth commenting on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3&lt;sup&gt;rd&lt;/sup&gt; flight stairwell railing vs. underground parking garage bike rack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insurance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making the bike look ugly (saran wrap + duct tape)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Component locks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Registration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other ways to deter a thief, or reclaim lost property or the value of it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastEditorUserId="6994" LastEditDate="2013-05-24T19:55:54.037" LastActivityDate="2013-05-25T00:22:39.800" Title="How do I secure a new bike outside my apartment?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-06-03T22:12:28.177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15943" CreationDate="2013-05-23T06:52:34.670" Score="3" ViewCount="2815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an activ folding bike designed by raleigh. I was wondering if I can swap the stock wheels for a wheel with a quick release? Or does the frame have to support it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also read I can use a quick release skewer but on their website it said that it's not suitable for bolt on hubs. How do I know if mine is a bolt on hub? It does look like it has a bolt going through it with a nut on either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T22:47:38.703" Title="Converting my bike to use quick release wheels" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-23T07:13:22.540" Score="2" ViewCount="18363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm quite new to bikes.&#xA;I have a Schrader valve bike with deflated wheels. When I try to pump it up. I take off the protective cap, then there is a valve secured down by a nut (there is another nut securing it to the actual wheel) I then put the pump onto the bit of valve poking up and lock it in. I can then pump it completely with about 5 pushes of the pump. Once it is complete I unlock the bike pump off of the valve, at that moment all the air rushes out immediately (10 seconds) even if I put the protective cap on. What does this mean?? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6997" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T14:08:55.850" Title="how to pump up schrader valve bike?" Tags="&lt;schrader&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15861" CreationDate="2013-05-23T07:19:37.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matt, this has got to be one of the most asked questions on here, have you searched through previous questions yet? That should give you some decent ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I will add is that you mention insurance. Your insurance company will likely have a list of approved locks - I'd suggest its going to be far more worth your while to consult that list than to ask a question on SE (much as the advice here is generally very good!). My betting is that the insurance co's list will contain big, heavy, hardened chains, so yes, the chain would probably be worth the weight (and the cost) if it means the difference between your insurance paying out or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also your insurance will probably stipluate that the bike gets locked to something &quot;immovable&quot; - might be worth seeing if you have anything that might fit the bill in your basement, if not seeing if you can get permission to sink an anchor. I have heard stories of people locking their bikes to a bike rack, only for thieves to unbolt the bike rack from the floor! You may also want to find out whether your basement is considered a &quot;public place&quot;, from the ins co's perspective, because they may place limits on the amount of time a bike could be left there. And, if its left inside, whether that would change things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sad fact is that if someone decides they really want &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; bike there's probably not a lot you can do about it - try not to get too attached to it, it's just a chunk of metal after all, and make sure you take sufficient steps that you will be compensated in the event of theft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you go read some policy requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T07:32:15.637" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T07:32:15.637" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15852" CreationDate="2013-05-23T10:05:44.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you could check some of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/specs/spec.jsp?speccode=bodygeometrysaddles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Body Geometry saddles&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also feature the back cut out design as recommended by Kibbee, hopefully that should take some pressure off the tail bone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as they come in 3 different widths, you can choose the size that fits you best. The recommended width is determined based on the distance between the sit bones and the ridding position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T10:05:44.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14125" CreationDate="2013-05-23T10:50:11.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't already, invest in some type of pedal-retention system. You'll find that reversing pressure on the pedals is a very efficient way of slowing down without using your brakes, but without a way to keep your foot attached to the pedal (cleats, toe straps) it can be pretty easy for your foot to slip off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T10:50:11.740" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24643" CreationDate="2013-05-23T11:01:03.943" Score="3" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found a lot of documentation on the internet on how to chose the correct riding position for a mountain bike or a road bike.&#xA;The thing is that my bike doesn't fit in those classes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is exactly &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U6UCl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know what is the best riding position for my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6999" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T11:55:02.547" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T09:58:16.327" Title="Bike position - Town bike" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15838" CreationDate="2013-05-23T12:04:58.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I carry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5 mm hex wrench&lt;/strong&gt; - used for most bolts on most bikes I have seen (only common exception is the seatpost)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a phillips and a standard screwdriver&lt;/strong&gt; - for adjusting both derailers and both brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spoke tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patch kit  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one spare tube, in case of a really bad puncture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a pump and a couple of tire levers, obviously  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a piece of wire, some patches for myself and a tick remover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of those only the first two are actually contained in a multitool. Consequently, my advice is not to carry such a bundle of unused and heavy pieces of steel. Get individual tool and carry only what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T12:04:58.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2013-05-23T13:01:16.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;However you proceed, get a bike that fits the child. None of this &quot;(s)he'll grow into it.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our then 4 yr old son had a bike and he was somewhat wobbly on it and I took great pains to supervise closely when he rode. One day we borrowed a neighbor's small bike (no training wheels), smaller than I'd ever seen before. It fit our son beautifully. And to our utter amazement he just started riding like he'd been doing this for years. No training wheels - for the first time. He was steady, turned with confidence, and fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7001" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T13:01:16.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15863" CreationDate="2013-05-23T13:35:11.377" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From these three, which one you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case ①:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ZQaE.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Schrader valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schrader valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if the inner part (valve) is properly installed (tight enough). If is and still loose air — you need to change the valve or the inner tube, the problem is with one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case ②:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JhBFo.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Presta valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presta valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to unlock the valve before pumping, or you will pump air only into you pumps' hose. After pumping don't forget to lock the valve back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case ③:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N8RtP.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Woods (Dunlop) valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Woods (Dunlop) valve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very old system. Check inner parts (steel needle and rubber tube) for damages, rubber tube can degrade flexibility with years → air loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastEditorUserId="6595" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T14:08:55.850" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T14:08:55.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15876" CreationDate="2013-05-23T13:37:12.153" Score="4" ViewCount="13916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to do the 180 km of cycling in general, that is the 2nd leg of Ironman.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't have a bicycle, as of now.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am planning to buy a road bike (not the one used for triathlon).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;People ask me to choose between a bike for endurance and a bike for performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden 200 km in a very cheap hybrid bike (twice the weight of an average road bike) in 11 hours.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would be using the bike mainly for triathlons and long distance brevet(but brevets at a later stage), so mainly concentrating in tri.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Doing 180 km in 6-7 hours come under race or endurance?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The speed involved here is 30 km/hr.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This will help me in choosing an endurance bike(Fuji, in my mind) or a performance bike (Trek, in my mind).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T17:35:27.987" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T07:42:18.983" Title="Should I get a performance bike or an endurance bike for 180 km rides?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15872" CreationDate="2013-05-23T13:51:07.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For 30 km/h average speed you need a performance bike and lot of training.&#xA;You need narrow tires (23-25 mm), good transmission, drop bar and some tight cycling clothes for aerodynamics.&#xA;For 180 km ride you also need water, maybe isotonical drinks and of course food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T13:51:07.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15883" CreationDate="2013-05-23T14:42:33.043" Score="6" ViewCount="6236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy a bike and ride upto 1000 km or more in a month. Adding them, I think it will come to 12 k to 15 k per year on an average. &#xA;I will be riding on highways, so there won't be any off-roads. Nevertheless, the roads in my country are not well maintained.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Let us consider that initially the bike is comfortable and everything fine at the time of purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the different problems (repairs &amp;amp; maintenance) that occur?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Among those which ones will cost me and which ones will be free of cost.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also if it is possible, answer them with 'high, medium, low' cost of maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T17:57:25.250" Title="Cost of maintenance of a roadbike" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15872" CreationDate="2013-05-23T15:55:29.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will want a bike for performance, but you will need endurance to finish the bike leg of an Ironman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Ironman events will have aid stations on the bike leg so you don't need a heavy touring bike to carry panniers full of food, gear or other stuff you would take along on a very long ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an Ironman race you would only need to carry some food in your cycling jersey and a couple bottles of liquid (water, electrolyte, or even something with more carbs and a little protein) and refill at the aid stations (the ones I've done had them about 10 - 12 miles apart). In the race you don't even stop at these aid stations, you toss an old (empty) bottle and grab one from the volunteer as your ride past. Most have water and electrolyte options plus some banana's or energy gels too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are simply riding the distance of an Ironman self supported, you can refill water bottles and purchase more food at gas stations, or mini food marts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Train on the bike you plan to ride in the race as you will become comfortable and gain the endurance needed to finish the bike leg in the 6 to 7 hours you are planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuji makes many performance bikes and so does Trek, test ride and get the bike that fits you best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T15:55:29.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15872" CreationDate="2013-05-23T16:24:31.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The terms &quot;performance bike&quot; and &quot;endurance bike&quot; aren't very well defined. To many people, the term &quot;endurance bike&quot; describes touring bicycles, which are used for long-distance self-supported rides where you're carrying a lot of equipment and supplies. However, Fuji (which you referred to), uses the term &quot;endurance bike&quot; to mean a road bike with a more relaxed geometry and &quot;competition bike&quot; to mean a road bike with more aggressive geometry. Trek (the other manufacturer you referred to), seems to use &quot;sport bike&quot; to refer to the relaxed geometry bikes, and &quot;race performance bike&quot; to refer to the aggressive geometry bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;endurance&quot; and &quot;competition&quot; bikes are both high-performance road bikes, it's just that the &quot;competition&quot; bikes sacrifice a bit more comfort to eke out the highest possible performance (in theory, anyway). Most bike manufacturers have multiple product lines that cover both categories, so the general category of geometry doesn't necessarily dictate a decision between manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that for the length of ride you're considering, you'll feel more comfortable on an relaxed geometry bike (e.g., &quot;endurance&quot; at Fuji or &quot;sport&quot; at Trek). But in the end, it's all about how you feel on the bike, so you should really test ride a few different bikes and see what you like best. No list of specifications, however long and detailed, can remove the need to try a bike and find out for yourself whether it works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T16:24:31.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15874" CreationDate="2013-05-23T16:51:09.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do most of your own maintenance then you just have to deal with the &quot;wear&quot; items -- chains, rings, clusters, brake pads, tires, and tubes.  Bearings wear out, but that takes a long time in most conditions.  Stuff like bar wrap needs occasional replacement, but you can always cheap it out with adhesive tape or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally figure 2000 miles to a chain, 5000 miles to a rear cluster, 10,000 miles to a front large chainring.  New brake pads at maybe 5000 miles, depending on your usage.  Tires are harder to guess, maybe 5000 miles a set on good roads with conservative riding, but much faster in poor conditions or with aggressive riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a bike with moderately-priced components I'd very roughly guess it works out to $300-500 in parts per 10,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you don't do your own work you can multiply that by a factor of 5 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T16:51:09.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15874" CreationDate="2013-05-23T16:52:22.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience of maintaining multiple bikes the costs will come down to these major factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yearly: Replacement of Chain/Cassette: Medium &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yearly: Replacement of Tires: High&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yearly: Tune Up of bike/Replacement of Cables/Housing/Pads: High&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As Needed: Tubes: Low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something breaks though you would have to replace that as well, but those costs can't be predicted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T16:52:22.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15888" CreationDate="2013-05-23T17:31:37.627" Score="4" ViewCount="1777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to put a new Sram X7 instead of killed one, should I open the chain (if I have no chain lock) or it's better to open the derailleur? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T14:28:49.400" Title="Should I remove the chain before installing new rear derailleur?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15872" CreationDate="2013-05-23T17:41:12.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your answer to whether or not it is racing or endurance, it is both. You are racing, because it is against the clock. It is endurance, simply because of the distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;30km/hour is a decent pace, and considering that you are doing an ironman distance triathlon, I would want the best performing bike possible THAT YOU ARE COMFORTABLE RIDING. It will do you no good to get what you call a performance bike, if after 100km you are too uncomfortable to ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would get the best performance bike that you can/feel like affording. Comfort on a bike is all about time in the saddle, and putting in the miles. What may feel harsh and uncomfortable today will in all likelihood feel comfortable 6 months down the road after a couple thousand kms. My fear is that you will pick comfort over performance in the short term, and have that hinder your performance in the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are a few people here and there that complete ironman triathlons on mountain bikes to fixies to cruisers to racers, and everything in between. In the end, you need to pick the bike that you feel will give you the best chance to finish the bike portion in good enough shape to go run the marathon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T17:41:12.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15881" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-05-23T17:54:12.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many parts of a bike wear down over time as they are used. Chains, tires, gears and everything with bearings (pedals, bottom brackets, wheel hubs, headsets, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean &quot;stuff that you wear&quot;, use &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/clothes&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'clothes'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;clothes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T17:54:12.437" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T17:54:12.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15882" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-05-23T17:54:12.437" Score="0" Body="A decline with use over time. (not clothes)" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T17:54:12.437" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T17:54:12.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15874" CreationDate="2013-05-23T17:57:25.250" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things that are going to cost you more, simply because you are not used to working on a bike and will have to have them done for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tuneups - You generally get one free at about 30 days after you buy the bike. Mostly this consists of readjusting the derailleurs (shifting mechanisms) and the brakes as the cables stretch. Tuneups in my area (Phoenix, Az) cost between $50-75 depending on shop and any replacement parts. Avg 2-3x per year&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires/Tubes - Ongoing. I recommend a tougher tire such as gatorskins ($50 each) for training, and then switching to a performance tire (Conti GP 4000 - $65 per tire) for racing. Tubes range from $7 to $15 each. I would just stick with butyl, even latex for racing is a bit overkill to start. Avg 6-8 tubes per year, 1-2 tires (per wheel).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain/cassette - $50-100 per cassette, $20-50 per chain depending on quality, plus shop cost to install/change. 1-2x per year depending on maintenance and mileage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the major ones that I would consider regular expenses. Other expenses such as new rings for the front crank happen, but they are much less often. Same with changing out the seat. Now, you have to start looking at your own personal maintenance habits. Are you going to be cleaning and oiling your chain on a regular basis? If so, then you can add cleaning/degreaser solution, and chain lubricant to your ongoing costs. Poor maintenance/dirty drivetrain will cost you both power and lifespan of your components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other incidental costs (Generally less than $10 for item cost, plus possible shop time for install) are brake pads, cables, bar tape, cable housing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you can get top of the line components and wheels, just realize that your ancillary costs will go up as well. For example, if you get performance wheels with carbon brake tracks, then your brake pad cost goes up from $10 to in the neighborhood of $50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the initial cost for tools and other items to be able to do your own work is high (A complete home type set of park tools can be assembled for $100 on the sparse side to $200 for almost everything needed), the payoff is that you save shop costs forever. It's all a matter of what you personally feel comfortable taking on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T17:57:25.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15894" CreationDate="2013-05-23T18:52:36.213" Score="4" ViewCount="1865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stores only allow you try out shorts with an additional layer of underwear because of the hygiene issues. While this is great for public health, it seems to make it impossible to evaluate whether a pair of shorts is comfortable before buying. While it may be possible to return merchandise at some retailers, it would be nice to be able to compare different shorts before buying. The only usable advice I've heard is to always avoid gel padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to &quot;kick the tires&quot; on a pair of bike shorts to get a sense of whether or not the chamois will be comfortable? What should I look for either when looking at a chamois in person or when reading the marketing techno-babble on manufacturer websites (e.g., what the heck is a four-dimensional chamois)? Do more expensive shorts always have better padding, or are there certain styles of chamois that work for some people but not others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related questions: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1916/what-should-i-look-for-in-a-good-pair-of-cycling-shorts&quot;&gt;What should I look for in a good pair of cycling shorts?&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8264/tights-shorts-and-padding&quot;&gt;Tights, Shorts, and Padding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T16:55:55.210" Title="How do you evaluate a chamois (padding in shorts) before buying?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;&lt;chamois&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15884" CreationDate="2013-05-23T19:20:28.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to truly evaluate padding is by wearing the short/bibs for a few rides. Once you find a brand that you like the chamois in, stick with them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to evaluating the chamois in the store, the only advice I can give is to look at what you already have and compare to that. It depends on what you are looking for in a chamois, but padding in the right places should be up there on the list.  In addition putting on the chamois with thin underwear will help in evaluating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's all about preference and experience in different chamois to find ones that you like. You can almost completely ignore the Marketing dribble that comes from the sites as it really doesn't mean anything in real life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T19:20:28.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15884" CreationDate="2013-05-23T19:57:48.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is, ask friends for recommendations. Bike shorts are, unfortunately, much like buying underwear: You need to try them on to know what'll work, and you pretty much can't return them after trying them on. Unlike underwear, good bike shorts are a not-insignificant expense. Some stores will let you try them on if you wear underwear, though. I own some skin-tight no-seam underwear that works well for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your best bet is probably to ask for recommendations from other cyclists who both have the same body type as you and do the same kind of riding. Maybe you're a skinny racer who likes hard Italian saddles? A utility cyclist who has a cushy saddle and generous &quot;padding&quot;? A mountain biker with a bony butt? There are still too many variables for this to be a sure thing, but it helps narrow things down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A site like this is a terrible place to ask for recommendations, but discussion forums like Bikeforums or the Crazyguy forums are great places for this kind of inquiry. For example, I'm a heavy guy who does a lot of touring on an unsprung Brooks saddle. The name batted around for guys like me is Aerotech Designs; I bought a pair of their bib shorts and have never been more comfortable. I now own two pairs I rotate between. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T19:57:48.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15889" CreationDate="2013-05-23T21:03:26.067" Score="11" ViewCount="2013" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a puncture today, removed the tube, patched it and made it home.&#xA;Obviously since I only have a mini-pump I could not inflate it to my 8 bar usual pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When home, I took the wheel upstairs to inflate it with my big pump. Inflated it to 8 bar and put the tire aside to mount it on the bike tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of minutes later: &lt;em&gt;BANG&lt;/em&gt; and when I looked, I saw this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2FV85.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thsxz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like the tube exploded (not exactly around the valve but not far from it: you can see the cap on the far right in the second pic) and blew off the &quot;clich&quot; part of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could have caused this? the tire is a Conti 4S that can handle 8 bar, the tube is a Schwalbe standard tube that does support 700x23 dimension. The rim was a Mavic Open Pro...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sucks,... did not feel like buying a new wheel now :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T09:38:37.947" Title="What happened? tube blew the rim?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15879" CreationDate="2013-05-23T21:35:16.907" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's much better to open the chain. Derailleurs are not really designed to be opened repeatedly, and doing so inexpertly can potentially ruin the derailleur. Chains might have either a lock link or a master link of some kind, find that open the chain and then thread the chain through the derailleur. If the chain does not have one of these links, you will need a chain tool to split the chain. DIY grade ones are quite cheap and do the job well, but you will need to read up on how to use it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider that if the size of the derailleur arm is different, your chain may need either fewer links or more links to fit properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2013-05-24T14:28:49.400" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T14:28:49.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15887" CreationDate="2013-05-23T21:49:45.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tube does not contain the pressure. Consider what happens to a tube is you put 8bar into while not mounted inside a wheel+tire...... If the tire cannot contain the pressure, the tube explodes, but it is that lack of conatainment that causes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is the tire or the rim. This cna be caused by : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire / rim mismatch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rim Faultly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire faulty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire incorrectly installed &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know its not 1). Have a look at the rim and check for faults and damage. Then inspect the tire for a faulty bead or tear. It may not be visible (A broken bead can be hard to see but can usually be felt.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, it looks like the bead has separated and you need a new tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another likely cause in my mind is incorrect mounting. Install a new tube, pump it up, let it down and pump it up again to full pressure - all the time watching whats happening to the shape of the tire. Any sign of deformity, you need to investigate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Information provided in the OPs comments indicate the rim has failed rather catastrophically  (Fault 2. in the list) - I incorrectly assumed the strip was off the tire.  You have a coice - if you don't want to buy a new wheel (at least rim, but a made up wheel is often cheaper) you don't have to - you just won't be able to ride the bike...  I suspect what happened is the the rim was damaged by either riding with the puncture or during the repair, and has developed a crack. The stress from the ire pressure was too much for it. Another possibility is you put more pressure into the tire than the rim is rated for - however they should handle 8bar.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strongly recommend a new tire and tube for the replacement rim........ &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T23:17:56.073" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T23:17:56.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15890" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-05-23T23:45:27.790" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-05-23T23:45:27.790" LastActivityDate="2013-05-23T23:45:27.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15891" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-05-23T23:45:27.790" Score="0" Body="Questions related to improving the overall image of the bicycling community. This can include publicity events, races, advertising, press coverage, and any other way to advocate to the public for the bicycling community." OwnerUserId="6952" LastEditorUserId="6952" LastEditDate="2013-05-24T06:25:07.790" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T06:25:07.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2013-05-24T01:28:34.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode a bike in Bullhead City, Arizona (named after the tremendous amount of goatheads) for about four and a half months. I pulled at least that many out of my tires every day or every other day. Liquid sealants like Slime or similar were the more affordable, but more tedious, solution. Still, it was a lifesaver when I was miles away from water sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T01:28:34.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15895" CreationDate="2013-05-24T02:57:12.753" Score="6" ViewCount="1015" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically ride on the hoods, but I've been working lately on a more aero position.  When in the drops or using clip-on aero bars I find that my quads get fatigued much more than when I'm in a normal road bike position.  Is this normal and I just need to train more or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7006" LastEditorUserId="6952" LastEditDate="2013-05-24T06:24:54.977" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T06:24:54.977" Title="quads feel over used while in an aero position" Tags="&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;&lt;muscle-pain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15884" CreationDate="2013-05-24T03:24:33.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought my last few shorts by direct experimentation at stores, and had the same doubts as yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly, what has worked is: you dress the shorts, and stand right up with feet in the normal position. In this position, the shorts should not produce a &quot;bulk&quot; between the thighs. Shorts that produce the bulk tend to be too uncomfortable either while on the bike or while walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, raising each foot alternately while flexing the knees should not produce a rubbing sensation against the inner thighs, which would mean skin irritation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that the padding should not be flat, that is, it should have a saddle shape. That means you cannot easily fold the short to put it in a drawer, for example, and when you hold the shorts by the waist, the short keeps like &quot;inflated&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At last, the overall compression of the fabric should feel &quot;fine&quot; and specifically the elastic bands around the waist and the thighs must feel &quot;right&quot;: a gentle compression, not a tight one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that's it, hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T03:24:33.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15893" CreationDate="2013-05-24T05:46:04.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely need a bike fit. The body position for using aero should be quite different than riding on hoods. Unfortunately, there really isn't a good compromise between a road and a TT/aero position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend getting a professional bike fit. I'm including the &quot;quick fit&quot; below, but there are too many factors in play and millimeters matter. If possible, go to a shop that specializes in setting up Triathlon athletes (road fit != TT fit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;quick fit&quot; for aero is to slam your saddle forward and then adjust height and reach. Your forearms should be on the pads, not your elbows. You should be able to reach all controls (brakes/shifting) without having to move your body (arms yes, body no)...if you can't, then you likely can't reach controls fast enough to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T05:46:04.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15887" CreationDate="2013-05-24T06:29:22.680" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This kind of failure is typically caused by excessive wear on the brake surface of the rim.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time you apply your brakes, you are polishing small amounts of metal away from the rim. Eventually, the rim gets too thin and weak, and will crack, like you have seen in your photo, from the normal inflation pressure of the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, this means tht the rim has been used beyond its life. If it is a new, or lightly used rim, it may be a manufacturing defect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T06:29:22.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15899" CreationDate="2013-05-24T11:56:04.767" Score="3" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use aluminium rim cement for patching flat tire instead of using rubber cement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7010" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-05-25T15:28:15.663" LastActivityDate="2013-05-25T15:28:15.663" Title="Rim cement as a replacement for rubber cement" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15898" CreationDate="2013-05-24T21:22:02.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. For patching punctured innertubes, you must use vulcanizing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubber_cement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rubber cement&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vulcanization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vulcanization&lt;/a&gt; which crosslinks the polymers in the tube with those in the patch. Most types of rubber cement, which are used for crafts, are not vulcanizing. Aluminum rim cement is designed to bond aluminum, not to vulcanize rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T21:22:02.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20905" CreationDate="2013-05-25T14:26:02.197" Score="7" ViewCount="2912" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=67&amp;amp;sortname=Lever&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tektro RL-340 brake levers&lt;/a&gt; have a quick release mechanism that, when pushed in, will lengthen the cable to allow to easily &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tektro.com/_english/02_technology/01_detail.php?pid=3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;disengage the brake from the wheel/disc&lt;/a&gt; without needing to deflate the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9piW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a big deal, in fact, it's nothing bad, just a little annoying and interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the brakes pressed when riding, the pin rattles — is there any way to stop that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone disassembled the levers before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="6678" LastEditDate="2013-05-26T23:46:14.063" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T12:54:58.033" Title="How to prevent the quick-release pin on the Tektro drop brake lever from rattling?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-25T19:33:04.730" Score="1" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;When riding only roads and well maintained trails, does it make any sense to have a suspension fork on a children's bike (10-12 years)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial gut feeling is to say no as it just adds weight and complexity to the bicycle.  But I don't have any experience to back this up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5513" LastActivityDate="2013-05-25T20:34:56.193" Title="Suspension forks on child/youth bicycle for road ringing good?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;children&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15903" CreationDate="2013-05-25T20:34:56.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no. Cheap suspension forks do only add weight and complexity as you say, and give very little actual suspension. My personal experience with cheap forks for adult bikes are that they can take away some road chatter, but with the increased weight and complexity it is hardly worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only worthwhile reason to have it must be that the kid likes the look and wants to ride the bike more because a suspension fork looks cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-25T20:34:56.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15908" CreationDate="2013-05-25T22:25:01.187" Score="4" ViewCount="1953" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike needs a bit of a tune up, particularly the tires since the back tube has a hole in it.  The rims on the bike are 26&quot;x1.5&quot; and the current tires are 26&quot;x2&quot; and both have great tread, but the sidewalls look like they're worn through in spots (I can actually see through the fibers in a few spots of the sidewalls).  Should I replace the tires, too, or is replacing the tube sufficient?  Also, is a 2&quot; tire OK on a 1.5&quot; rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X9oNl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My tire&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7025" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T17:40:13.727" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T00:57:54.143" Title="Do tires with worn sidewalls need to be replaced?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15905" CreationDate="2013-05-25T22:27:06.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can see the fibers? then it's a no-brainer, change the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-05-25T22:27:06.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15905" CreationDate="2013-05-26T02:08:39.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, that tire needs to be replaced.  (It appears that either it's been run underinflated or you've been using your foot on the side of the tire to brake a lot.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T02:08:39.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-26T04:52:55.450" Score="9" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't own a bicycle. Whenever I go cycling, I would need to rent one. The first thing that I always check is to see if the brakes are working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, I have no idea that the gear is faulty until I encounter a steep slope where I need to pedal hard. This may cause the gear to jump or slip if it is faulty. Other times, when I change the gear, the pedalling suddenly becomes inefficient, with constant grinding noises from the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I try not to change the gears at all to avoid the above problems. I would like to know if there is a way to visually inspect the gear and tell the shop assistant that, &quot;Hey, the bike is faulty!&quot;, instead of coming back halfway to do the exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7028" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T10:51:09.097" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T10:51:09.097" Title="How to check the gear before renting a bike?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9196" CreationDate="2013-05-26T08:19:30.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solvents are not only bad for the environment (no I am not from Greenpeace) but also bad for your health. Luckily many solvent free solutions are mantioned above. Soap and water, a dry rag and washing up liquid. No need for solvents at all. Have you ever had to wash your dirty black hands after handling the greasy, rusty old chain of and old street bike og after fixing something on your car? Did you use a special hand degreasing fluid? No because soap and water does the trick - washing up fluid if soap is not enough. If the same kind of oily dirt is on your bike, the same kind of washing technique applies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7030" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T08:19:30.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15909" CreationDate="2013-05-26T11:25:22.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about a derailleur-style bike, a quick check is to suspend the rear wheel somehow (sometimes you can hang the nose of the seat on something, eg, or see if the rental place doesn't have a work stand) and crank the pedals with your hand while you shift through the gears.  On a bike with indexed shifters the transitions should be smooth and you should hear no more than very slight &quot;chatter&quot; from the chain once the transition is complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T11:25:22.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2013-05-26T23:55:45.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opinion matches zenbike's:  when in doubt, replace the tire.  My riding is 99% on the road.  If your flat is due to a small thorn hole, and you have removed ALL of the thorns, or is a puncture from exposed rim or stem hole burs, you can mitigate those by filing, rim tape, etc.  If it is from a nail, tack, or larger puncture (like yours), I feel unsafe letting it ride again - my experience is that it wears another hole in the tube or worse... eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to retire the tire (sorry, couldn't resist the pun) from outdoor riding and then using it for indoor trainering.  While the indoor trainers do wear the tire's outer treads quickly, at least you can get a flat, not worry about falling off, and you don't have a long walk to a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7033" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T23:55:45.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15915" CreationDate="2013-05-27T04:27:33.507" Score="8" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen fixies with internal hubs, but a non-freewheeling rear wheel with deraillers seems to be unrepresented:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;            |        Freewheel?        |&#xA;Derailler?  |      Yes      |    No    |  &#xA;      Yes   | Standard bike |    ??    |&#xA;       No   | Single-speed  |  Fixie   |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practicality aside, is there a mechanical constraint involved here? What happens if you try it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7035" LastEditorUserId="7035" LastEditDate="2013-05-27T09:51:25.467" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T09:51:25.467" Title="Why do deraillers require a freewheel?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-27T04:50:59.407" Score="6" ViewCount="9962" Body="&lt;p&gt;help me fix the bearings in my freewheel. I need to know the number of ball bearings top and bottom in my shimano mf-hg20 freewheel, and what size are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7036" LastActivityDate="2021-05-18T22:55:57.083" Title="How many ball bearings inside shimano MF-HG20 freewheel top and bottom?" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15913" CreationDate="2013-05-27T06:08:54.207" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the same reason you can't have a fixie with a chain tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The load on the chain when slowing a fixie is too great and in the wrong direction for a derailler or tensioner to hold. The cage will be pulled forward and your chain will skip make a nasty noise and most likely come off or break something expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T06:08:54.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16067" CreationDate="2013-05-27T13:26:33.440" Score="3" ViewCount="2312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my bikes quite frequently and need to use the brakes slightly harshly (because of the traffic light changes and cars at my front) as I approach some gradients worth 40 degrees downhill. My regular commute culminates to approximately 4 miles (with gradients and 5 days a week) and 0.25 miles (with gradients and 2 days a week). I have used simple tuning to maintain the v-brake positions along my front and rear rims and cable tensions for the brake cable (by adjusting the nuts near the brake levers). However, it seems that they don't stay put for more than a month or two. Additionally, I noticed this morning that my rear brake pads are almost worn out (broken and cracked edges). My question is, how do I determine how often the brake pads needs replacements? It would be fantastic if someone points suggests any side-effects such as brake cable wire damages and replacements etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I recently puchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-performance-v-brake-holders-inserts-4-pack/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; set of pads with housings. Does anyone know if it is any good? My current brake pads are naked i.e. without any housings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T01:13:05.643" Title="Life metrics for v-brake pads (time to replace, time to change)" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2013-05-27T13:54:03.373" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross would be my answer for your need...home, work, road race, etc. Cyclocross is constantly becoming the most ideal candidate for everyday + slightly hardcore jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bikes are really rubbish as there is no road in this entire universe (except the ones maintained all the year because of cycle sports) that supports road bike tyres. A lot of people might hate me for this (even downvote me), but a road bike is not ideal for a daily life commute, no way. You should be able feel that no matter what happens my bike will take any road cracks, potholes, etc. that may come. Road bikes are phenomenally rubbish and don't tick any boxes. In other words, if you are not racing on a &quot;Silky Smooth&quot; road, forget about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a firm believer in MTBs as they are like Toyota Land Cruiser (i.e. takes anything that you can throw at them). Additionally, MTBs are very good if you are doing long-range commutes over different tarmacs (i.e. you will care about NO surprises on road surface). The only negative thing about MTBs are when it comes to really steeper roads (appx. 40 degrees uphill), you will work really hard to go up. Road bikes, only in this one area, outruns MTBs. The reason is the overall weight of the bike (a Road bike is quite light compared to an MTB)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other options are Hybrids. Budgetwise, it depends on you (but don't buy road bikes). I would suggest get an MTB or hybrid (good for money, and won't disappoint you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T13:54:03.373" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9827" CreationDate="2013-05-27T20:59:04.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if this is going to be accepted as a comment or an answer, so apologies in advance and any superuser please feel free to amend it appropriately&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a condition a month ago when I braked hard, hit a pothole, somersaulted on the road, and my inner tube had a proper burst with cracks on my back tyre. I would say replace your tyre, get something like a 1200 mile puncture-proof tyres (Schwalbe ones are good) for about $40 (guess). Living in a country like UK where you can never rely on the weather, I always get my tyres replaces in case I have a nasty crack. Rain will destroy my tyre anyway, so no point using those clever crack-repairing glues. Speaking of which, for cracks like 2-3 mm you can use those glues to do the job. They are not too bad, considering that you are not riding somewhere really really hot where your tyre pressure is also affected by the temperature. If you are in a place where rain doesn't really affect your riding, you could probably get away with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is &quot;Replace your tyre if possible&quot; because your safety is not bigger than your cash :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike was a Road bike (can't remember), definitely replace the tyres. Road bikes are different animal and with about 120 psi on on wheels, you don't want a cracked and damaged tyre supporting the super-pressurised inner tube!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T20:59:04.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15922" CreationDate="2013-05-27T22:38:17.207" Score="4" ViewCount="5511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fulcrum racing 5 evo which has a loud free hub (like other campy) for about 5 years now. I like the loud noise when coasting because I don't need to put a bell on the bike. On my last ride, I just notice that the wheel has become quite (like a shimano).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me is that something I should be concerned (and get a bell), or is it just need servicing? I also don't know if it's serviceable because it has cartridge bearings. What is happening and how is it affecting the ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastEditorUserId="3042" LastEditDate="2013-05-28T00:16:58.337" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T08:32:10.213" Title="Loud free hub suddenly become quiet" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15920" CreationDate="2013-05-28T02:26:21.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the pawls riding over the catches that make noise. If you hub was previously &quot;loud&quot; and is now quiet, something is likely keeping them from dropping energetically into the catches. I'd disassemble your hub and inspect/clean/relube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others (@Daniel R. Hicks) have noted, the issue is that if the pawls aren't catching, the ratcheting systems of the freehub is no longer working properly. As far as bicycle malfunctions go, this isn't the most dangerous thing that can happen as your brakes will still work, steering is unaffected, just a sudden reduction of power to the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever is causing this (dirt or rust most likely) is likely to also have secondary effects, chiefly drag, but also the possibility of undue wear on the freehub. Five years is a decent amount of time for water and road grime to make it's way in. You probably don't need to get to your LBS today, but plan on stopping in this week. They should be able to confirm the cause in a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T02:26:21.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8697" CreationDate="2013-05-28T04:22:17.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;cleats moving aside... i also make sure i buy shoes that fit snugly and  are tied and/or strapped down &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once went the lazy way and slipped into my shoes loose-foot .  When I tried to unclip, the foot slid one side in the shoe while the shoe moved too little to disengage from the pedal.  Classic fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7045" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T04:22:17.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14451" CreationDate="2013-05-28T04:31:06.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you want this as an able-bodied person to play with, or as a disabled person because your legs don't work? If the latter, (two wheeled) bicycles are out of the question unless you're young, fit, and slightly insane (I say this because it's certain you will fall off a two-wheeler, probably more than once, and if the guy I watched/helped is any guide, you are likely to also fall off at speed at least once).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems differ based on the type of bike or trike. The most suitable IMO for conversion are SWB ASS bikes (short wheelbase, above seat steering) and trikes. The &quot;hand-pedal&quot; part is the same in all cases. Look at any handcycle, but essentially you mount standard handgrips on bicycle pedal axles, then add brake and gear levers. The cables from those need to be long as they flex as you pedal. The pedals mount to standard bicycle chainring(s) and a standard &quot;bottom bracket&quot; (even though it's not at the bottom any more). That bottom bracket mounts to the top of the steerer tube and the chain runs to a standard bicycle rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trike will be easier to ride and harder to fall off, especially up hills. Handcycles go up hills very slowly. Most handcycles for wheelchair users are trikes, normally delta trikes (often with with negative trail). Negative trail makes them easy to build, hard to ride, and unstable at speed. But since you're already looking at a few thousand dollars, easy to build helps to keep the cost down. The more expensive ones are usually better designed for speed (however I have been very unimpressed with the ones I've seen from a rideability point of view). The conversion can be very easy - you &quot;just&quot; build an arm with a wheel at one end, pedals at the other, and a steering pivot in the middle. You can even buy those premade as wheelchair accessories (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riomobility.com/en/manualhandcycle/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.riomobility.com/en/manualhandcycle/index.htm&lt;/a&gt;). If you can do that, scratch building the seat/rear wheels shouldn't be too hard. &quot;Conversion&quot; now means &quot;chopping up random bikes to get bits&quot; rather than &quot;add hand-pedals&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But very few foot-pedal trikes are delta trikes, and the ones that are are slow. That's because deltas are inherently unstable, especially when braking and turning (very common in racing or in an emergency). A second hand recumbent tadpole is also likely to be easier to find. Search for &quot;recumbent trike&quot; and you will find a lot of tadpoles, few deltas. Converting a tadpole you'll need to insert a bicycle headset into the frame in front of the seat/behind the cross-member, extend that up, then build your pedal/steering unit on top. The chain will twist when you steer, but that's ok (world record setting speedbikes commonly do this). The chain goes to the rear wheel, and you'll need two idler cogs to bend it up to your cranks. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.TriSled.com.au&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.TriSled.com.au&lt;/a&gt; in Australia have built at least one of these but it was very expensive (take a $4000 trike, add a couple of weeks work to convert it to a handcycle). It did, however, work very well :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Converting a SWB bike is likewise fairly easy. Remove the existing stem and handlebars, build your hand-pedal setup to plug into/onto the existing steerer tube, weld on a couple of idler cogs, and you're done. Don't paint it yet! First try riding it. You will fall off, and may decide to revise how the chain idlers work. The first mount you build may well not be strong enough, especially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases you will probably find that having the pedal unit pivot forward makes getting on and off much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other option is a rowing bike - Thys make them commercially, and apparently they're not bad to ride (but they definitely work your legs as well as your arms)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-05-29T01:19:25.090" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T01:19:25.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16006" CreationDate="2013-05-28T09:34:53.920" Score="7" ViewCount="17987" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy a road bike. I am considering a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/sport/1_series/1_2/#/us/en/model/fit_sizing?url=us/en/bikes/road/sport/1_series/1_2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek 1.2&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Competitive Cyclist Fit Calculator&lt;/a&gt; to find the size of bike that fits me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Inseam:             80.5  &#xA;Trunk:              59.5  &#xA;Forearm:            36  &#xA;Arm:                67.2  &#xA;Thigh:              57.4  &#xA;Lower Leg:          53.7  &#xA;Sternal Notch:     138.1  &#xA;Total Body Height: 171&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All the measurements are in cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ranges that are given in the results are these:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Seat tube range c-c:   52.1 - 52.6 for competitive fit.  &#xA;Seat tube range c-c:   53.3 - 53.8 for eddy fit. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of my bike is going to be able to do long distance mainly. I cannot afford another bike for racing but I will most probably be doing Ironman from next year using the same bike. But I personally think that riding 180 km in 8 hr is endurance and not year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now which size should I go for?  &lt;strong&gt;52 or 54&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Should I just check the standover height of the bike? Or I should I look into something more than that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking this because in India not many shops deal with Trek road bikes. The Trek 1.2 is only available at one shop. That fellow says he &lt;strong&gt;won't&lt;/strong&gt; allow me to test ride the bike. So I am in a bad situation. I want to buy this bike but the right size. The whole geometry is available in the site I have given. Ask for more information, if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="5567" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T16:36:50.083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T02:46:43.840" Title="How can I find the right size road bike without a test ride?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="17" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-28T10:23:13.273" Score="2" ViewCount="2340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a chain for a 6-speed bike. I know SRAM chains have the special link, meaning that no tools are needed. I've seen a very good deal on the SRAM PC850 chain, but their website lists this as an 8-speed chain (rather than 6/7/8).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if this chain is suitable for a 6-speed bike? Would I be able to remove &quot;spare&quot; links with a bog-standard chain tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7049" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T05:21:49.533" Title="Can I use a SRAM PC850 chain on a 6-speed bike?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15928" CreationDate="2013-05-28T10:48:34.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to contact them to see if they have changed their design. I am currently using a PG 850 on a six speed. I seem to remember when I bought it, that it was labeled as a 6,7,8 speed and at the time the 9 speed was unique. Perhaps they have made changes to  make it a more popular 7,8,9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T10:48:34.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15931" CreationDate="2013-05-28T11:20:33.097" Score="8" ViewCount="25832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was adjusting the tension of my front derailleur cable and managed to pop off the cable end cap. The cable is now quite frayed at the end and I think it would be difficult to attach another cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would work as a suitable replacement for a cap? I've read that perhaps superglue or duct tape could work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6182" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T16:26:14.527" Title="What is a good replacement for a cable end cap?" Tags="&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15930" CreationDate="2013-05-28T12:13:44.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could maybe cut it where it is not frayed and put a cap if the slack is long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could put a piece of duct tape just to avoid the fraying from reaching a place interfere with the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could try to gather the frayed-out strings and put a cap anyway&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you really don't like it, you can change the cable completely though it is overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T12:13:44.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15927" CreationDate="2013-05-28T12:16:33.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advice to visit your Local Bike Shop (LBS) and try out ideally both bikes in both sizes. But at least try a bike in each size; and/or discuss with the LBS and have him measure your inseam and see what he says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-05-28T17:20:04.503" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T17:20:04.503" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15930" CreationDate="2013-05-28T12:24:12.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those end-caps are quite reusable. If you take a pair of pliers and squeeze it gently so that the flattened portion opens up you can then slide it back onto the cable. Using the pliers you can then re-crimp it on the cable. Although it looks ugly and everyone will know that you are too cheap to buy a 10c end-cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little bit of superglue placed at the end of the cut seems to help keep the individual wires from separating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4015" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T12:24:12.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15614" CreationDate="2013-05-28T15:31:28.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All answers above were interesting - in the end I couldn't pinpoint the source of the creaking, but I gave my bike to a shop for a check-up, and they re-calibrated the spokes on both wheels, after which the creaking went away. No dirt or damage was be found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6819" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T15:31:28.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-28T17:49:01.427" Score="2" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could really could do with a hand here, I'm currently restoring a old Raleigh Milk Race bike which has friction tube shifters fitted. I want to upgrade the rear derailleur but I'm not sure if I have to buy a certain type. It has a SunRace one fitted, and the front one is a Shimano one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is a 7 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7053" LastEditorUserId="3248" LastEditDate="2013-07-02T12:51:51.113" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T12:51:51.113" Title="What rear derailleur do I need?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-28T20:38:37.610" Score="5" ViewCount="800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased a bicycle from a second hand shop. It seems to have all sorts of different parts. The frame however has a badge and markings of 'Kontroll' made in West Germany. Doing some research I can't find anything about this make, is anyone familiar with this brand?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it says West Germany this may date it to the 80's. It's a large frame which is handy as I am 6ft 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EU8jm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yKpw8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B3z0M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7055" LastEditorUserId="4891" LastEditDate="2013-10-24T12:25:32.047" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T06:02:46.337" Title="What bike do I have?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;germany&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15939" CreationDate="2013-05-28T21:25:14.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost any rear derailleur will do.  You aren't limited by the shifters (since they're friction shifters, they have no index incompatabilities) and it's a 7 speed, so anything that is rated for 6, 7, or 8 speed will work fine.  Go to a local shop that sells used parts or a local community group and take a look at what they have in their parts bin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6894" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T21:25:14.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15812" CreationDate="2013-05-28T21:38:17.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this will affect the looks of the vintage bike, but I would personally put a quality &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/stems/threadless-stems/vo-threadless-stem-adaptor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;threadless stem adaptor&lt;/a&gt; on the bike, then add a &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/stems/threadless-stems/vo-threadless-stem-26-0-6-rise.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;threadless stem&lt;/a&gt;.  You can swap the stem around, flip it upside down, get fitted at your LBS, all without un-wrapping the bar tape, pulling at least one brake lever off, and removing the bars (which is a requirement for changing out a quill stem).  Your other option is to use the limited number of quality quill stems remaining in the world, which usually tend toward either expensive or short (and rarely both).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I linked to Velo-Orange not because I work there, but because their stems are affordable, light, strong and beautiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6894" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T21:38:17.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15862" CreationDate="2013-05-28T21:47:16.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a definite MAYBE. You'd have to rebuild the &quot;bolt on&quot; hubs you have to replace the solid axles with hollow ones, or replace the wheels entirely. You'd not have &quot;lawyer lips&quot;. And the existing axles may be oversize and QR wheels might not fit well, or there may be other reasons why the skewers will not clamp tightly enough on your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T21:47:16.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15930" CreationDate="2013-05-28T21:52:49.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an unneeded old wheel laying around, use a spoke nipple. Remove the nipple from the spoke slide it over the  cable and crimp with pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T21:52:49.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-28T21:57:58.697" Score="3" ViewCount="803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pashley Roadster Sovereign, and wanted to upgrade the dynamo driven headlight. Sadly, I didn't successfully use the old wire to pull the new wire through the front fork, and now I need to fish a wire through the fork without the aid of something to pull it through. Any tips for accomplishing this? When I try to fish the wire down the fork, it catches on something and I've never successfully located the end of the wire through the vent hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T12:25:45.397" Title="How can I run a dynamo wire from my front hub to my dynamo light?" Tags="&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15945" CreationDate="2013-05-28T21:57:58.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was finally able to do this by taping the end of the wire so it extends about 1/2&quot; past the end of a bent-straight coat hanger. Using this, I was able to get the tip of the wire near the bottom vent hole, and wiggle it around enough that I could locate the wire ends. Then it was a bit of work to catch the wire and pull it through with fine needle-nose pliers, but I was able to get it twice within a minute or so after burning nearly an hour trying to fish it through using other methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T21:57:58.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10764" CreationDate="2013-05-28T22:01:38.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;product_id=169&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Philips Safe Ride 60&lt;/a&gt; on my Pashley with a Sturmey-Archer dynamo hub. It's a big improvement over the incandescent headlamp that came with the bike, and it meets your price criteria. (Though having to ship from Europe added to the cost...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T22:01:38.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15862" CreationDate="2013-05-28T22:47:38.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main question is what diameter the axles are. If they are standard 10mm axles you will almost certainly be able to swap just the axles for hollow quick release ones. That's doable at home and easy for a bike shop (you need a flat &quot;cone spanner&quot; and preferably a vice). The only parts you need are front and rear QR axles and skewers plus new grease. I'd probably change the bearings and cones when I had it apart, depending on their condition. But you don't have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bicyclerepairstation.com/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;product_id=158#prettyPhoto%5Bpp_gal%5D/11/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; it seems to have fairly standard 20&quot; wheels. From a mention in another search result I suspect it may have a 9mm diameter front axle which would make it tricky. It might be possible to fit a 10mm axle in there if you can find compatible cones - you need to either try it or find someone who has. But the rear wheel looks like a standard derailleur hub, so it should have a 10mm axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest measuring the axle diameter as your first step. If they're both 10mm it'll be easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T22:47:38.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15965" CreationDate="2013-05-28T23:04:57.737" Score="10" ViewCount="1340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that a lot of commuters come to a complete stop at traffic lights but go before the light turns green. They start riding as soon as the light in the intersecting direction turns red. I usually get annoyed and assume that this could only reinforce negative opinions held by motorists, but I've suspected that there must be some valid reason for the early start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a separate issue from taking an Idaho stop at a quiet intersection or blatantly running a red light. For rolling stops and blatant running, there is a significant saving in effort from not completely stopping, and there is an understandable, if not necessarily justifiable, tradeoff between efficiency and legality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be the same tradeoff for early starts at traffic lights. In this case, the saved time is only two seconds, and there is no saved effort (since they have already come to a complete stop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen enough people do this that I'm sure there must be some logic behind the early start. Are commuters really desperate to save two seconds, or is there (as I suspect) some deeper reason for taking an early start at traffic lights? Does this behavior just hurt relations with motorists, or are there safety benefits that make this something that should be pushed for legalization (as with Idaho stops)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T13:44:54.137" Title="What is the reason for starting before the traffic light turns green?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-28T23:27:06.300" Score="1" ViewCount="1143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in small women's city bike and a 3-speed 2010 Nirve Wilshire just came up for sale, used.  I've never heard of this company and the interwebs are producing little info.  I searched for reviews, including on the sites recommended in this thread: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2406/what-are-good-bicycle-review-and-comparison-sites&quot;&gt;What are good bicycle review and comparison sites?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone attest to Nirve bikes or the Wilshire? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T23:27:06.300" Title="Does Nirve make a good bike?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15972" CreationDate="2013-05-29T00:31:35.170" Score="17" ViewCount="8215" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local bicycle shop is offering &quot;premium kevlar belt tyres&quot; and are &quot;extremely puncture proof&quot; how much of this is true? Does this &quot;kevlar belt&quot; offer good puncture protection? What does this protect against? Shards of glass? Stones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7056" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T09:36:36.797" Title="Do Kevlar Belts really offer puncture protection?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15949" CreationDate="2013-05-29T01:12:59.173" Score="-3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot; sure there must be some logic behind the early&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen enough of the behavior of motorists and cyclists to know this is the fundamental flaw causing you confusion. Where does it say you have to be logical to ride a bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or is there (as I suspect) some deeper reason for.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly no rational one. Most people who willingly break laws will claim a deep and meaningful reason why they believe they are above the law, and why &quot;It won't happen to me&quot; applies more to them than other people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does this behavior just hurt relations with motorists, or are there safety &#xA;  benefits that make this something that should be pushed for legalization&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I definitely does hurt relations, however legalizing it will make limited difference. Legalizing it would be equivalent to the euthanasia debate, however Darwinism theory lends some support to the idea of legalizing it for those who have not yet procreated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;claim of right&quot; (a legal defense in some countries where you can do illegal stuff if you truly believe it is for a greater good), is probably around it is safer for the cyclist to clear the intersection ahead of the cars and allows the traffic freer flow etc - something that is supported in some jurisdictions by special lights and road rules. It sort of fails when you consider the safety issue of what happens when a cyclist is T-boned by a couple of tons of steel racing to (illegally, but the result is the same so its irrelevant) clear an intersection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T01:12:59.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15977" CreationDate="2013-05-29T01:38:30.040" Score="1" ViewCount="5023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the market for a new bike (or possibly a groupo upgrade on my current bike that has 8-speed Ultegra 600 components from the early 90s). I'm trying to determine if the premium for an Ultegra drivetrain is worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know one of the main differences between Ultegra and 105 is going to be the weight, which I am not as concerned with as much as I am with durability and reliability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically put 150-200 miles a week on my bike with my long rides being 50-100 miles. I am not a serious racer, but I do participate in 3-4 organized race/rides each summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I go with a new bike I'd like to stay in $2k range, but could talk myself into as much as $3k if warranted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since many builds seem to be coming with mixed components are there any items I want to make sure I don't skimp on? I'm guessing STI levers and derailers specifically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any words of wisdom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7057" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T12:36:10.720" Title="Differences Between Shimano Ultegra &amp; 105 Drivetrains" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15949" CreationDate="2013-05-29T01:53:22.440" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is the practical reason that for the first 2-3 seconds of riding the bike is generally unstable, and the ability to hold a steady course is limited.  Trying to get the bike moving while cars are whizzing past within inches is definitely unnerving and possibly risky.  (And cars will tend to pass closer to a standing bike than a moving one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T01:53:22.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-29T03:24:14.150" Score="2" ViewCount="801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to temporarily swap parts on two bikes for a trip - I currently have a Tiagra 9-speed setup and a bike with Ultegra 6600 double/10 speed. Is it possible to use the triple front shifter from a 9-speed group with the Ultegra group (substituting an Ultegra triple crank and FD that I'd buy) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7058" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T18:52:47.773" Title="Tiagra 9 speed triple front with a 10 speed group" Tags="&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15930" CreationDate="2013-05-29T05:01:16.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have successfully used A tiny bit of epoxy glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is a bit of tin soldering wire: give it a couple of tight loops around the end of the cable then squash it with pliers. Tin is soft enough to be defformed around the cable without deforming the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another option is to use an actual soldering iron to cover the very last centimeter of cable with tin. It is quite difficult to solder the end of the already installed cable though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cable is not too badly frayed it can be de-frayed with pliers, grabbing all the strands and twisting it in the right direction. Do it before applying the cap end substitute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T05:01:16.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-29T05:50:32.243" Score="0" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I could convert this &lt;a href=&quot;https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/q71/s480x480/430156_461794267240029_1042500253_n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/q71/s480x480/430156_461794267240029_1042500253_n.jpg&lt;/a&gt; to a cycling bike like what would i have to do to that bike to convert it ? tell where and what and how much the parts are i want it so i can have better cardio and endurance i live on gravel road but i can get to pavment from my house. i dont hav any money to spend on a new one so i was just wondering if i could do tires and pedals and maybe bars if it all come less then $100 iwas hoping to sped around $70 or less*** i race motocross and saving for racing so that is why i want the cheapest way lol ih and i dont have any cycling shoes i was just going to use regular training work out shoes.. so if u guys could help me out give me websites and  prices and everything that would be great&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7062" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T14:57:39.423" Title="how to convert my 21 speed mountain bike into a road/cycling bike?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15957" CreationDate="2013-05-29T06:38:32.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with your tyres. Go for slicks, the narrower the better. I used to run 1 1/4&quot; tyres on my old mountain bike, at the time this was pretty much the lower limit on a 26&quot; tyre. This will be by far the biggest bang for your buck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will probably also blow your $70 budget if you get good tyres. You may also need to invest in new tubes, depending on what you have currently. But it will make a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing that springs to mind is to improve your position. Difficult to do this much given the geometry of the frame, although I have heard of people putting aero bars onto their MTBs. Should improve things but its more cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for pedals - remember you'll need shoes as well - and these on their own will probably blow your budget. I'd stick with what you've got for now and think about upgrading as and when you have the cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-05-29T06:44:48.890" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T06:44:48.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15957" CreationDate="2013-05-29T06:43:51.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your price range and your goal, the best bang for the buck will likely be tires. You should be able to get some economy road slicks that you can mount on your current bike for $10-30/tire (check any of the &quot;big&quot; bike shops for economy tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike is already rigid so no need to worry about changing the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the stem and steer tube are one piece, so changing to drop bars (the &quot;standard road bars&quot;) might not be a simple matter. Additionally, this would require changing the shifting and brakes which probably couldn't be done within the budget specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention pedals, but within your budget, the cost of pedals and shoes would be a stretch. You might consider adding a strap/basket but even this is not a huge payoff in performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have extra money in the budget, you may want to consider getting a road saddle. They are designed to support you on your sit-bones and while uncomfortable for some at first, they are essential once you build up to multi-hour rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cardio and endurance are less about the equipment and more about the duration. Once you put some slicks on your current bike you should be able to ride it comfortably for long periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T06:43:51.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2013-05-29T07:32:54.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New York City&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Named &lt;a href=&quot;http://citibikenyc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Citi Bike&lt;/a&gt;, this system started May 27, 2013, with about 300 stations and 6000 bikes in Manhattan and Brooklyn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T07:32:54.703" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-05-29T07:32:54.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15945" CreationDate="2013-05-29T09:07:25.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to do this is to use a vacuum cleaner and feed a piece of cotton or light thread through, with the vacuum sucking it out the other hole. Once you've got that through, you can pull the wire through, or possibly a stronger thread/cord/line first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T09:07:25.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15949" CreationDate="2013-05-29T09:25:48.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically for the same reasons that advanced stop lines exist - puts the bike where it can be seen by drivers setting off, rather than risk being sideswiped in a blind spot.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_stop_line#Safety_aspects&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_stop_line#Safety_aspects&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T09:25:48.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16053" CreationDate="2013-05-29T09:44:43.000" Score="3" ViewCount="3877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have thought about few questions to ask to the shop keeper before buying a bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But would like to know from you experts, a complete set of questions like warranty period? Number of free services offered after sales?...etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T15:50:30.887" Title="Questions to ask before buying a bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15949" CreationDate="2013-05-29T10:32:38.977" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;early start&quot; allows cyclists to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=12&amp;amp;ved=0CIwBEBYwCw&amp;amp;url=http://www.nottinghamshire.gov.uk/EasySiteWeb/GatewayLink.aspx?alId=122449&amp;amp;ei=3sGlUbfnKcGN0AXT4oDwAQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGkV0gv3KDXqUL7-5bMyi8KnQ439Q&amp;amp;sig2=p2k7RVhMLYTMjCMpoNcc0A&amp;amp;bvm=bv.47008514,d.d2k&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;clear the junction ahead of motorists&lt;/a&gt;, this is useful for cyclists making off-side turns (right in the UK, left in the US). It also helps cyclists going straight on avoid conflict with motorists making near-side turns (left in the UK, right in the US).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The UK and many places in Europe have Advanced Stop Lines (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/using-the-road-159-to-203/road-junctions-170-to-183&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Highway Code rule 178&lt;/a&gt;) at traffic lights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xjs85.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Advanced Stop Line&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These allow cyclists to get ahead of motorists without jumping the red light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For junctions without an Advanced Stop Line you'd have to weigh any benefits of clearing the junction against the potential legal consequences, the likelihood of increased driver hostility and the risk of colliding with a vehicle jumping the lights from another direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I don't jump red lights. On the roads I cycle on I think it would be more dangerous than waiting for them to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T10:32:38.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15949" CreationDate="2013-05-29T10:43:44.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I agree with k102 in response above&lt;/strong&gt;. I commute to work everyday on a two-lane county road. I try to make myself as visible to motorists as possible. At stop lights, I coast in front of the line of cars (maybe 5 feet if there is room. &lt;p&gt;Taking off at the other directions red light gives me time to get my momentum up and hopefully a chance for the motorists to see me and possibly think to themselves '&lt;em&gt;hey this guy has no bike lane and I am speeding within a couple feet of him.'&lt;/em&gt; &lt;p&gt;By doing this, I've thought to myself, hey I'm running a red light, but safety is my number one priority. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T10:43:44.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15770" CreationDate="2013-05-29T11:13:54.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the question of safety, hoods are safe. The levers on brakes provide mechanical advantage enabling the rider to apply breaking power through the levers, even when hands are placed on the hoods and might seemingly be at a disadvantage in terms of applying power (vs. say the drops).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaking power will not be the same as with the hand position on the drops. I would recommend the drop position be used when descending or going fast on the flats where you might anticipate the need for rapid breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hoods position may be unsafe if your set-up and positioning on the bike is not good and reaching for the hoods causes you to extend the body, become unbalanced, unstable or compromised because of bad bike fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many amateur and professional riders use the hoods precisely because of comfort, safety, responsiveness and ability to control all aspects of the bike (speed and direction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wishing you safe and happy riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7063" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T11:13:54.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15964" CreationDate="2013-05-29T12:17:33.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never really concerned myself with questions to ask a bike shop before buying a bike. Competition in most places is far too keen for a bike shop not to bend over backwards to assist you if you have problems. On the other hand, I do pay close attention to the attitude a LBS takes on letting you test ride bikes. Some shops don't like the idea but allow it. Some encourage you to do so. I'll always take my business to a shop that encourages me to ride the bike as long as I want. The shop should also offer to do a fitting, to make sure the bikes fits you perfectly, after you buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T12:17:33.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15945" CreationDate="2013-05-29T12:25:45.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem. I just made a spiral with the wire around the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T12:25:45.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15957" CreationDate="2013-05-29T14:57:39.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go on Craig's list and buy an old steel road bike from the '70s.  If you are patient, you will find something in the $100 range.  Unless you get free parts, it will be very difficult to get a road feel for under $100 by retro-fitting your bike.  Tires would help you go faster, but if you are really just looking for more cardio, use your mountain bike and push yourself harder!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T14:57:39.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15770" CreationDate="2013-05-29T15:00:32.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do find that when I am riding in wet conditions, I don't get as much leverage when riding on the hoods, compared to riding in the drops.  Other than that, I don't have any issues with stopping while on the hoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T15:00:32.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15951" CreationDate="2013-05-29T17:17:45.663" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kevlar fibres do resist cutting, and the kevlar belts in my tyres have certainly stopped lots of sharps (mostly glass and flint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it won't protect against are pinch flats (which you can avoid anyway by keeping your tyres at the right pressure) and, if it's just a central belt, it may not protect against sidewall cuts either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's generally a tradeoff between ride quality and puncture resistance FWIW: my tyres are lighter and faster than Schwalbe Marathon Plus (for example), but also less tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want anything more than generalities, you'll need to name those tyres and ask about them specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T17:17:45.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-29T23:57:26.250" Score="3" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://sunbicycles.com/product_detail.php?short_code=EZ-3+USX+HD+Trike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sun ez3 trike&lt;/a&gt;,it has rear freewheel with the largest being 28 teeth,can I put a mega&#xA;range with 34 teeth on it,and do I have to change the deraileur.Objective to make hills easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7068" LastEditorUserId="4691" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T15:32:08.877" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T04:08:00.507" Title="sun ez3 trike gearing" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;tricycle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2013-05-30T03:03:25.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;College Station, Texas&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was on campus at Texas A&amp;amp;M University when they first piloted a bike-sharing program called &amp;quot;Borrow-a-Bike&amp;quot;.  Of course, students thought it was a joke, because everyone knew what would happen: the bikes would all be stolen or destroyed.  Like clockwork, all the bikes that were placed on campus were no longer available after about a week or so.  A few even wound up in trees.  Just because.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the idea stuck (or was revived), though.  There is currently a &lt;a href=&quot;http://transport.tamu.edu/bicycles/borrowabike.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Borrow a Bike&lt;/a&gt; program using these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k1z51.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7069" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T03:03:25.290" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-05-30T03:03:25.290" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15927" CreationDate="2013-05-30T11:14:31.857" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems odd that somebody wanting to sell a bike to you wouldn't allow a test ride. Most places encourage you to take the bike for a test ride, at least around the parking lot or around the block, and usually with a bike store employee following closely behind.  If they can't offer you a test ride, perhaps you could persuade them to mount the bike onto a trainer.  That would at least give you some sense of how the bike fits, although doesn't tell you much about how it handles. Another option is to find a bike rental service that has the same model bike that you are planning to buy (some rental services even sell their old bikes). This can give you the opportunity to try out the bike for an extended period.  If you still can't get a test ride, I'd opt for a different bike from a different shop that does allow test rides.  There's nothing particularly special about the Trek 1.2 that you can't find in 100 other bike models, which are available in lots of different stores.  I wouldn't recommend buying a bike without actually riding it first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T11:14:31.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15741" CreationDate="2013-05-30T12:20:36.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what kind of 'workout' you want. If you want to work your cardiovascular then being in a gear that allows you to maintain a cadence of 90rpm (or comfortable spinning if you don' have a cadence sensor) will be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to build some climbing muscles then the big ring is where it's at. I have a hill that is about 5-6% on my way home and I used to ride it in the small ring, I've lately started pushing a little harder to stay in the big ring, and while it's harder work, at a slower cadence it is also great training to concentrate on pedalling in circles and working some other muscles out of the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also don't forget the rules, in particular &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#90&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;number 90&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T12:20:36.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15953" CreationDate="2013-05-30T12:36:10.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're planning on doing a reasonable amount of Kms I wouldn't purchase anything with less than 105 on it. The groupset tends to reflect the quality of the bike your purchasing. If it comes with a mix of 105 and Tiagra, then it is probably aimed at the recreational rider who might take it out once every other week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for 105 vs Ultegra, some parts may make a difference. I don' know the full implications, but I would really take a 105 and ultegra out for a ride and test the shifting speed and precision. I expect the ultegra will shift a little quicker and smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I run SRAM force and love it. It isn't for everyone though as there is only one paddle that shifts up and down based on the length  of your push. With that said, on the cassette I can shift up 3 gears at a time; taking me from 12 to 32T in 4 throws of the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know in Australia $2k will get you a reasonable bike running 105; and we are one of the most expensive places in the world to buy bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T12:36:10.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15694" CreationDate="2013-05-30T12:48:46.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without knowing more details about the fork (coil spring vs air spring) it is hard to recommend anything other than getting it serviced at your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said I know on my MTB with fox float forks, that if I leave it upside down for a while it won't lockout properly. Usually because the oil has displaced within the chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe try flipping it upside down overnight and then seeing if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T12:48:46.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="56347" CreationDate="2013-05-30T12:56:23.400" Score="5" ViewCount="1792" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it ok to use a Nexus 8 speed grip shifter with an Alfine 8 speed hub?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The Alfine shifters seem to be all trigger shifters is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6411" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T12:17:29.333" Title="Nexus shifter with Alfine hub" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15955" CreationDate="2013-05-30T12:59:43.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will work, but you need to double check shifting range settings — stops — on the front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend use second and third positions of shifter for inner and outer rings respectively (not the first and second).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will use not only triple front shifter but also a triple front derailleur you must consider that shifting on double crankset with triple derailleur wouldn't be as fine as with double derailleur (because of triple derailleur frame form).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T12:59:43.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-30T13:04:28.193" Score="3" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a rim failure, my LBS is offering me a ceramic rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I go for that; I currently have KoolStop salmon brake shoes. I see they make those in green specially &lt;em&gt;for&lt;/em&gt; ceramics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I keep my salmon shoes and get a set of greens for next shoe-change? or do I need to get the green asap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T23:13:43.767" Title="Ceramic rims and KoolStop brake pads" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;ceramic&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15984" CreationDate="2013-05-30T14:30:00.360" Score="5" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;So what is the correct number of quick sticks to swiftly change the tube? I had always thought that the answer is of course 2, but :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/15848/3927&quot;&gt;I can do it twice as fast with one Quik Stick as you can with a&#xA;  handful of levers. – Daniel R Hicks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T15:19:17.157" Title="How to replace a tube with only one quick stick?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15991" CreationDate="2013-05-30T15:07:19.023" Score="3" ViewCount="3387" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I want to do a longer ride (let's say 3 hours) in rainy weather, what are the best ways to keep dry? I already checked &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1304/what-clothing-is-best-for-wet-weather-cycling-in-the-rain&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but it does not address long rides and most answers only give information about rain coats and tips for short rides, like commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know what clothes to use on long rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;legwear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(rain)coats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;face/helmet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T17:47:43.810" Title="Which clothes to use in wet weather for long distances?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;rain&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15982" CreationDate="2013-05-30T15:13:48.053" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only ever use one tire lever.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deflate the tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the lever to pull the tire lip over the rim opposite the stem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slide (with a little force) the lever around the rim until the entire lip is free&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the other lip in the rim and remove the tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Slightly&lt;/em&gt; inflate the new tube and place it in the tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimmy the tire into place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start seating the lip from the stem and work around to the opposite side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the tire lever (if necessary) to pry the lip back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate the tube and make sure the lib is clenched all around&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose that there could be a reason that this is the wrong approach.  There may be a reason that using two levers is better.  BUT, I always use one and haven't noticed a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastEditorUserId="346" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T15:19:17.157" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T15:19:17.157" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-05-30T17:26:52.633" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oftentimes, you sweat the most just when you finish the ride, as you've just been pedaling at full effort, but you don't get the wind generated by the moving bike. And then you need to stand around in a warm space, like I need to wait in the very warm freight elevator lobby. Try to take it easy especially for the end of the ride, and hold something cold (such as an ice pack or cold drink) against your head or neck to cool down quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="5702" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T01:26:51.040" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T01:26:51.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15927" CreationDate="2013-05-30T18:05:36.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buying a bike without riding it is a terrible idea. Similarly terrible ideas would include ordering a mattress without laying on it, laying down cash for a guitar without playing it, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/15886/8&quot;&gt;purchasing bike shorts without trying them on&lt;/a&gt;. And I agree that any shop that won't let you test ride a bike is pretty suspicious. I'd try to take my business elsewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, we live in a non-ideal world. Sometimes the perfect deal comes along, or you just plain need something and have to take a chance and buy it sight-unseen. In this answer, I'm assuming that you've tried to find other ways of riding the bike (asked friends, looked for other shops, etc.) and have failed to get that test ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to make an imperfect frame fit, if the sizing isn't too far off. Extra-long stems and seatposts, barends, saddle rail extenders... all of these are gadgets that you can buy to help get yourself on an ill-fitting bike. If you make some good guesses, yu can avoid using any of these contraptions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can you do to mitigate the risks?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, I'd read up on bike fit as much as possible. This way, you can make guesses that are informed guesses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any frame, even a custom-built one, you'll end up adjusting saddle-to-pedal distance, reach, handlebar height, and frame size. It sounds like you've narrowed things down to a couple of sizes; that's great, as it makes your job much easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/steveluscher/8338968606/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A DIY true by steveluscher, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dRjGe.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;333&quot; alt=&quot;A DIY true&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Narrowing it down&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the two sizes you've chosen, which one will allow you more latitude when dialing in your fit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, for example, the smaller frame barely has enough standover height, that's a point in favor of avoiding the larger one. If the smaller frame would need an extraordinarily long stem to get a good reach (that's the saddle-to-handlebar dimension), that's a point in favor of the larger frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And so on. Tally up all of these factors and see which frame makes the most sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can this possibly work?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking as someone who owns a built-to-order road bike, who put money down before the thing was even built: It's possible to do this if you know what you want and know what's important to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An awful lot &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; go wrong. You've made a lot of guesses, based on your experience with other bikes, reading spec sheets, and just plain hoping your gut feelings are right. If you can't afford to los the money you'd spend on this bike, I'd think twice before ordering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's possible to wait a while and test-ride a bike then (maybe you're going on vacation later this year and can hit some shops then?) (is a road tide coming to town? Put out a classified ad) I'd do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if not, try to ride some other road bikes and get a good idea what's important to you in road bike fit. Remember that you're gambling a bit with your money, make the best guesses you can, and hope. The worst-case here is that you end up selling the bike and taking a loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T18:15:03.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15988" CreationDate="2013-05-30T20:19:21.567" Score="7" ViewCount="7512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am feeling minimalist and hipster, considering buying a fixie. I have never ridden a fixie and cannot gauge the safety of fixies (an important issue for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am only considering fixies with &lt;em&gt;both front and back brakes&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a fixie require proper training to be safe? Is a fixie any more dangerous than a traditional urban bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5582" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T09:12:42.403" Title="Safety of fixies" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15987" CreationDate="2013-05-30T20:29:27.483" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have brakes, then a fixie is no more dangerous than a single speed once you get accustomed to not being able to coast. Simply put, on a fixie, if the bike is moving, you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be pedaling. Take it easy at first and you will adapt to this quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend spending a bit of time where there isn't other bikers/pedestrians when you first ride as a fixie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend starting with a flip-flop rear wheel, fixie on one side and freewheel on the other, and carrying a 15mm wrench so you can flip it. As you start out on a fixie it can be more taxing on your legs than you might expect at first. Being able to change over to a single-speed (freewheel) and give your legs a break can be very important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T20:29:27.483" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15983" CreationDate="2013-05-30T22:46:31.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer:&lt;/strong&gt; you won't stay dry.  Your best option is to maintain comfortable body temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: What to wear depends how cold it is, how hard it's raining, and whether your bike is equipped with fenders.  In the Pacific Northwe't, we have a lot of light rain and a moderate temperature band.  I keep the fenders on year-round (which makes me stick out a lot when I attend events in eastern Oregon ;-) and assume that I'll get wet one way or another.  How I dress depends on the anticipated temperature band:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Above 70 F (21 °C): dress as I would if it were dry, namely wicky polyester jersey &amp;amp; socks, spandex shorts.  These things air out pretty quickly.  I'm usually working hard enough that staying warm is not a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;50 - 70 F (10 - 21 °C): A Merino (non-itchy) wool jersey works very well in this band.  It holds water, but it'll keep you warm.  If it's especially windy or approaching the lower temperature range, I'll add a layer, wear wool/poly socks, a beanie, and a polyester light fleece set of tights.  The main purpose of these is to stay warm, especially if I stop (e.g., to change a flat).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Below 50 F (10 °C), it's cool enough that I'll definitely be wearing tights and a rain jacket.  I'll also have the closed-finger gloves.  For my feet, I'll cover the shoes with a neoprene bootie.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shoes: The neoprene booties don't ward off water as much as you'd think they would, but they do keep my feet warm.  They go on sale for ~$20 at various places.  I've been very tempted to wear sandals and wool socks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leg wear - the polyester fleece tights tend to go on sale at Costco for ~$20 in the September timeframe.  They're great for this temperature range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rain jacket: I have a nice Showers Pass jacket with lots of zippered vents and pockets.  I find that I tend to keep the underarm zippers open to regulate heat except when it's really cold.  When I get warm enough, I'll roll it up and stuff it in the handlebar bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head beanie: is a polyester, light fleece cap that I picked up at REI (though many other places have them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3022" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T12:43:20.083" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T12:43:20.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15983" CreationDate="2013-05-31T02:09:41.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a minimum, for cooler weather, I'd say you need to have at least the jacket part of a &quot;sauna suit&quot; -- a lightweight waterproof jacket.  In some situations you will appreciate the pants as well.  But, as the name implies, a &quot;sauna suit&quot; is incredibly uncomfortable when exert yourself in it, so it's nice to have something a bit less waterproof (but better breathing) for use in light rain or mist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the &quot;sauna suit&quot; is nice to have because it's very light and packs into maybe a 6&quot; diameter ball (or almost any other shape with the same volume).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, when you think you may get wet avoid cotton (especially cotton socks).  And I very much like Coolmax socks, in part because Coolmax doesn't soak up much water and it maintains its loft and cushion even when wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T02:09:41.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6991" CreationDate="2013-05-31T07:21:19.750" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem when storing my bike. I used coins to keep the pads separated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.nadnerb.co.uk/?s=coin&amp;amp;submit=Go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;It works pretty well&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TnuYa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TnuYa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;From linked site&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7079" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-12-22T08:26:08.933" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T08:26:08.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-31T10:19:57.160" Score="3" ViewCount="1376" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear wheel's rim is severely damaged and I want to replace the rim. I don't want to respoke it, so first question, is it possible to buy new prebuilt wheel somehow without the transmission itself, may be with hub shell, without hub internals? Or I have to buy rim and respoke it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7081" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T15:34:42.583" Title="Fixing/replacing rim/wheel with Internal Gear Hubs (Nexus 3)" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15994" CreationDate="2013-05-31T15:34:42.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you're going to be able to swap the guts of an internally geared hub on to a prebuilt wheel that doesn't have the same hub on it to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy a new rim, you should be able to do a rim swap relatively easy if you have a truing stand.  Simply tape the rims together and swap the spokes over to the new rim one at a time.  Then you'll need to re-tension the wheel from scratch, but you won't have to worry about re-lacing the wheel.  If you're not comfortable with this process, you may want to take it to a bike shop and have them rebuild the wheel for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an overview on how to do a rim swap in more detail.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?doc_id=4888&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?doc_id=4888&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T15:34:42.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15983" CreationDate="2013-05-31T15:41:23.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For bike touring, I've had some good luck using a rain cape, a bike specific poncho that sits over your bars and is open on the bottom.  It provides a lot of ventilation and keeps a lot of the water off your legs without hot rain pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can pair this with some shoe covers and/or gaiters to keep your lower legs dry (or just wear shorts in hot weather and don't worry about your legs).  Typically, you'll also want fenders as well to keep road spray from coming up under the cape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xX4Y2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rain Cape&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycleclothing.com/Rain-Capes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bicycleclothing.com/Rain-Capes.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T15:41:23.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-31T17:35:49.393" Score="3" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I safely put my 130mm internal geared hub in a 126mm spaced aluminum frame by forcing it?  What are the consequences?  How would the IGH be &quot;damaged&quot; by this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My IGH hub has a wheel laced and ready to use, but I would like to use this older, lugged aluminum frame I picked up cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that steel frames can be &quot;cold set&quot; (i.e. bent), but that aluminum frames cannot.  However, I do find that there is &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; leeway in stretching the aluminum rear stays, so I think I could force the new IGH hub into the (horizontal) dropouts.  However, Sheldon Brown says that IGH hubs might damaged when you put them on a spacing with the wrong size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if I would be effectively throwing away my IGH if I put it on this frame.  Has anyone done such a thing?  Does it affect the IGH?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2020-04-30T08:12:16.063" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T20:52:18.490" Title="Any special issues with putting a wider internal gear hub in a narrower alu frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;&lt;cold-set&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15983" CreationDate="2013-05-31T17:47:43.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the rain is light to moderate &lt;em&gt;and I'm only cycling&lt;/em&gt;, I'd tend to choose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a light windproof jacket: these pack down to the size of an apple, most rain will just roll off them but they're still more breathable than full water-proof fabrics, and whatever does get through won't make you cold because the jacket blocks wind chill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;normal cycling gear underneath (something wicking that won't hold significant water)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;waterproof (or resistant) overshoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rain is heavy and I'm only cycling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a waterproof jacket, ideally with as many ventilation zips as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;same underneath&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;again with the overshoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm not &lt;em&gt;only cycling&lt;/em&gt;, ie I have to look presentable at the other end, the easiest option is to take a change of clothes (in a waterproof bag). Otherwise it does get tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T17:47:43.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16115" CreationDate="2013-05-31T18:33:34.083" Score="17" ViewCount="738" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to ride my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prudentialridelondon.co.uk/The_Events/Prudential_RideLondon-Surrey_100.htm&quot;&gt;first century sportive&lt;/a&gt; later this summer and am wondering what I should carry along on the ride, and how I should carry it. It's clear to me from my training rides that regardless of how frequently rest stops are available, I'll need to cary food for most of the ride, and at least some water. And since the ride spans the good part of a day, I expect that an additional layer of clothing might be needed, and of course tools, passport, and phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I being unreasonable in expecting to carry this on the ride? How do people cary what they bring? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastEditorUserId="38270" LastEditDate="2021-04-01T19:45:27.793" LastActivityDate="2021-04-01T19:47:57.580" Title="What supplies do riders carry on century sportives and how do they carry it?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;&lt;century&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-05-31T20:17:14.227" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Living in Denmark, I have ridden a bike almost every day of my life since I turned 5. I do not claim to be any kind of expert, I just see biking as an every day rutine. I ride my bike to work every day. I break into sweat real easy in the summer, when temperatures often rises above 20 degrees C if not in shorts, which I cannot wear to work. So how do I challenge biking to work in the summer in long pants and a shirt? I go slow. That was an easy question to answer. You do not need fancy equipment, just leave home earlier in the summer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7086" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T20:17:14.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16001" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16032" CreationDate="2013-05-31T20:57:11.837" Score="6" ViewCount="2941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is a rather controversial issue. I was skeptical as well before doing this on my car, and I have not refilled my car tires for several months. Before that I needed to adjust the pressure every couple of months at least. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I think it is a good idea to try this for our bikes. Especially since, when I see I need to fill up my bike tires, I get too lazy and give up the ride altogether. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to do this at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I thought I'd update the question for people who come and read later:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the comments, I drive a lot (30kmiles/year) and I saw (to my surprise) a significant difference with nitrogen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the reasoning with losing oxygen over time and increasing the N2 concentration but in practice that does not happen fast enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'll look into Helium/Argon and I'll update you if I managed to do something interesting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I live in a small place I don't like to have a large pump but that is exactly why pumping is such a chore for me,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1924" LastEditorUserId="1924" LastEditDate="2013-06-01T11:23:38.037" LastActivityDate="2021-03-30T21:45:50.540" Title="Is there a way to fill your tires with nitrogen?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="14" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15987" CreationDate="2013-05-31T21:03:30.427" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that may be more dangerous on a fixie is performing emergency turns.  Since the pedals are always turning you need to make sure that your crank doesn't strike the ground while cornering.  Other than this I wouldn't think riding a fixie would be any more dangerous.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T21:03:30.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-31T23:02:43.817" Score="1" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a bike from the UK.  The brakes and shifters are on the opposite sides.  I want to change it so the front brake is on the left and the rear is on the right,  Same thing for the shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Drop bars and Ultegra Shifters.  Is this a difficult project?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7088" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T20:27:38.783" Title="I need to change my bike from UK to US Spec" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;us&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16003" CreationDate="2013-05-31T23:22:31.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kind of what Daniel said, brakes are easy. Sit down and think about it for a minute, all you have to do is switch the cables. Run the front cable to the left and run the rear cable to the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to switch the shifters you will probably run into some trouble. You won't be able to just switch the cables, you would have to get shifters that work on the opposite side. I would just forego that goal if I were you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T23:22:31.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16029" CreationDate="2013-06-01T00:37:27.913" Score="2" ViewCount="2654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a v-brake mounted on my bike.&#xA;I can feel some stopping from the pads. If i spin the wheel, it stops because of one of the pads rubbing.&#xA;I can't find a setting where one of the pads doesn't touch the rim.&#xA;When I put less tension, the pads don't touch the wheel, but in that setting, the tension is too low.&#xA;I have played with the pad positions.&#xA;I have played with brake tension.&#xA;I have even played with spring tension, in order to adjust the brake movement. Both arms move at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can this be? Bent rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6999" LastEditorUserId="7035" LastEditDate="2013-06-05T12:48:25.500" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T12:48:25.500" Title="Brake pad rubbing the rim" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15927" CreationDate="2013-06-01T01:47:49.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you could ride either size comfortably. You may need to change the stem to accommodate your longer reach, but the range of adjustment for the seat is what you want to look at, not so much the seat tube length. When you look at sizing, the reach is as important as the height. But good fit can be achieved within a range of values; I think it is better to think of proper fit as a range of values rather than a point estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPCFJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;measurement diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can obviously change the reach by changing the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I faced a similar problem as you. My current main ride was an eBay purchase. It has the same sloping top-tube (TT) design as the one you are looking at. The nominal size is very different than my other road bike, so I used the CC Fit Computer to help me decide if the bike would fit, and 5,400 miles later I can tell you it fits very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The geometry of the Trek 1.2 is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/sport/1_series/1_2/#/us/en/model/fit_sizing?url=us/en/bikes/road/sport/1_series/1_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;; the geometry of my bike is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motobecane.com/road/#geo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for the sake of comparison, my CC Fit measurements/results are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Measurements&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inseam:               85.1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Trunk:                67.3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Forearm:              33&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Arm:                  61.6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thigh:                59.7&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Lower Leg:            57.8&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sternal Notch:        143.5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Total Body Height:    175.3&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Competitive Fit (cm)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat tube range c-c:  55.1 - 55.6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Seat tube range c-t:  56.8 - 57.3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Top tube length:      54.6 - 55.0&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Stem Length:          11.2 - 11.8&lt;br&gt;&#xA;BB-Saddle Position:    80.6 - 82.6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Saddle-Handlebar:      52.4 - 53.0&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Saddle Setback:        4.0 - 4.4&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Eddy Fit (cm)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat tube range c-c:  56.3 - 56.8&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Seat tube range c-t:  58.0 - 58.5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Top tube length:      54.6 - 55.0&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Stem Length:          10.1 - 10.7&lt;br&gt;&#xA;BB-Saddle Position:    79.8 - 81.8&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Saddle-Handlebar:      53.2 - 53.8&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Saddle Setback:        5.2 - 5.6&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The French Fit (cm)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat tube range c-c:  58.0 - 58.5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Seat tube range c-t:  59.7 - 60.2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Top tube length:      55.8 - 56.2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Stem Length:          10.3 - 10.9&lt;br&gt;&#xA;BB-Saddle Position:    78.1 - 80.1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Saddle-Handlebar:      54.9 - 55.5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Saddle Setback:        4.7 - 5.1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your measurements show that you have a longer reach than I have, but shorter legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a nominal 53 cm (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motobecane.com/road/#geo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;refer to the sizing chart&lt;/a&gt;) but the virtual frame size (the size if the TT was level) is a 56. I have it set up right now with the saddle at 70cm above the center of the BB and the reach set at 62 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for you, because your arms are longer, I think you would probably like the 54 better, but I do believe you could ride the 52 comfortably, perhaps with a slightly longer stem. My guess would be that the stock stem is 100mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T01:47:49.057" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15927" CreationDate="2013-06-01T04:11:15.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest correct answer is that without a test ride, you can't guarantee the correct fit. That is why test rides exist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either bike may be within the correct range, but you dont know which is better, until you ride them, and no one can tell you which is better, when you are looking at 2 bikes that are both in the right range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a subjective decision, based on how the bikes feel to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Denying you a test ride is denying you the ability to get the right bike, guaranteed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you want a different answer, but you need to look at a shop which will let you ride the bikes, even if it means going with a different brand or model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T04:11:15.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15999" CreationDate="2013-06-01T04:13:17.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two water bottles (on accelerade, one Nuun)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tail wedge, with multi-tool, patch kit, tire levers, spare tube, CO2 inflator, emergency food (sport beans), wallet, keys.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bento box with cell phone, drugs (salt tablets, ibuprofen, sinus)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pump mounted on one water bottle cage. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jersey pockets with powdered accelerate, Nuun tablets, real food.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll typically go a couple of hours between stops. I like to have enough food so I don't have to depend on food stops for anything (assuming it's an organized ride). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try not to carry too much clothing; I'd rather be a little cold at the start than carry a lot of extra clothing. I may wear a thin vest that collapses into a small package so it can be stuffed into a jersey pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T04:13:17.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-01T06:00:15.323" Score="1" ViewCount="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;My new cruiser bike has a twist shifter on the straight handlebar.  Why is there more space on the dial between the numbers 6 &amp;amp; 7?  The space between every other number is the same, except between the 6 &amp;amp; 7.  I'm a little OCD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7090" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T01:53:27.363" Title="Twist shifter spacing between 6 &amp; 7" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16001" CreationDate="2013-06-01T13:57:32.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is and I have done it with the same setup. I am a diver by trade and I experimented with the same setup. I used a SCUBA bottle and set the regulators with my calibration equipment. I got it to work but it the only value I got from it was knowing that it could be done. The N₂ was expensive, at least compared to air. The SCUBA regulators were expensive and they needed to be precisely set. Calibration is usually not accurate to 1PSI, which you would need. I also didn't want to haul the whole heavy potentially dangerous HP gas setup around with me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dove with He on several occasions. That is even more of a hassle. The whole system would leak no matter what. It was because the Helium molecules are so small they can pass through cracks of pipe fittings no matter how tight the fittings were. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastEditorUserId="6474" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T01:10:25.987" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T01:10:25.987" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15999" CreationDate="2013-06-01T14:11:04.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never carry anything special on Centuries. I carry water and Clif bars but I carry that stuff anyway. The one thing I do differently is eat and drink more. It sounds like you have plenty of stops at good intervals. Make sure to eat a lot at each one of those whether you're hungry or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't take any clothes. You'll be fine. We wear clothes all day and we're fine. I certainly wouldn't take anything that I haven't been training with previously. Don't run a race with new shoes. Or whatever the bike equivalent is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is me. If I were in this ride and there was help and food stations set up, I wouldn't take any of my own. I wouldn't want the encumbermant of self-help products. Plus, it would be pretty cool to go on a long ride &lt;strong&gt;without&lt;/strong&gt; that stuff. Let the volunteers do what they do. Let them feed you, let them fix your tires, let them carry out the trash. They want to do it. You hardly never get help on the road so take advantage of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T14:11:04.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15930" CreationDate="2013-06-01T14:48:28.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a cable crimp. It looked terrible but it prevent the cable from unravelling before I got to the bike shop to discover that a bike shop will usually give you those end caps if you buy something else from the store. The shops have them in the thousands and they probably paid about $3 for them. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IYtDk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cable crimpers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T14:48:28.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15951" CreationDate="2013-06-01T14:53:30.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using them for years and have not had a puncture flat with them. I live in an area that gets these tiny little thorns, kind of like rose bush thorns, in the gutters. I used to get a flat every two weeks from one of those thorns. Now, I never get them. Totally worth the price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T14:53:30.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15884" CreationDate="2013-06-01T15:03:40.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the find-a-brand-you-like-and-stick-with-that idea. If the store let you try them on then they let someone else try them on, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, chamois' are not padding. They are for moisture management. A proper saddle and fit is for comfort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have several brands of bibs and I only use one. My riding buddies are the same way but with their own brand. Hopefully, you won't find that your brand is the expensive one. I like Castelli. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also moving towards a thinner chamois. I have had issues with all the added bulk in my crotch and a thinner chamois fits better. I have heard others say the same thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T15:03:40.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15884" CreationDate="2013-06-01T16:55:55.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a professional and I only ride 2500-3000 miles in a typical year. I never pay full retail for bike clothing unless I have a compelling reason. For example, some items are very rarely available for a discount. Typically when I need clothes I prowl the Nashbar sales, the REI sales, Chainlove and so forth, and I am patient (slow to buy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you generally get what you pay for. Online reviews can be helpful, but you have to weigh reviews carefully, as it is possible some are shilled (paid) reviews. There is no substitute for personal experience, as other responders have noted. Saddles and bibs/shorts/chamois are highly personal, and what one person likes may be disliked by another. Neither of them is right or wrong in such circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can research this kind of thing to death, and I believe you are better off riding. Get some shorts or bibs, and ride with them. If you like them, buy more. If not, buy something different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T16:55:55.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2013-06-01T22:58:16.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;my Kryptonite fagetaboutit wasn't opening. I lubricated it and tried all the keys  and each was turning and the U-part jiggled back and forth but it didn't release. I used a small plastic needleless syringe to squirt some bike bio-chain cleaner up the key opening and after a couple minutes of it sitting in there the lock released. I think it cleaned out the gunk that was sticking the release mechanism. I then wiped out the ends where the U seats into, and tapped out any loose liquid, then lubricated keyhole and the nib that springs in and out.  Works well now&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7093" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T22:58:16.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16009" CreationDate="2013-06-02T01:53:27.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While most shifts rely in the very position of the shifter to precisely place the derailer aligned with the cog, the last gear relies in the limiter screw in the derailer itself. So, the last gear usualy &quot;let the cable go&quot; a bit more than needed, so that the limiter screw handles it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in the last gear, the derailer spring is almost unloaded, so that extra release of cable helps the last shift to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T01:53:27.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16001" CreationDate="2013-06-02T04:19:21.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can inflate my car tires to proper pressure by checking them once a month or so and inflating them as needed using free air.  It takes me maybe 5 minutes per month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can inflate my bike tires to proper pressure by checking them once a week or so and inflating them as needed using free air.  It takes me maybe 2 minutes per week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no strategy of using alternative gasses that can even remotely compete with that in terms of economy, time or convenience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T04:19:21.350" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16022" CreationDate="2013-06-02T06:15:10.700" Score="0" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a new user. I searched for this question but couldn't find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was riding today, about 10 miles in my pedal spontaneously popped off. I was later able to repair it with a wrench, but I'm concerned that pedaling while standing excessively could have caused this. I'm very careful not to place a disproportionate amount of weight on one side or the other. Only one pedal fell off, the right one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I should worry about? My bike is less than a year old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7095" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T09:15:35.587" Title="Does pedaling while standing wear down the pedal?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-02T07:03:34.107" Score="1" ViewCount="1705" Body="&lt;p&gt;In his &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15953/differences-between-shimano-ultegra-105-drivetrains&quot;&gt;previous post&lt;/a&gt;, jmusits asked the difference between the Shimano 105 and Ultegra drive train. Obviously, the derailleur is certainly one of the major components of a group. However levers, brakes and cables also make a huge difference. I would like to extend jmusits' original question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the difference between 105 and Ultegra brake calipers? Is the brake performance better with the Ultegra components or is it only a weight question? What about the difference with Tiagra caliper?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the difference between 105 and Ultegra levers? I can imagine that the mechanism for gear change is more accurate and smoother for the Ultegra. But what about the influence on the brakes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am quite interested on the brakes right now, since my girlfriend owns a road bike with cheap Tiagra components. The derailleur is not working properly and we were thinking of changing the derailleur for a better one. But is it worth to change the brake calipers and/or the levers as well? She likes the frame, but would like to have better brake performance and smoother gear change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7048" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T22:44:47.887" Title="Beside drive train, what is the difference between group components (e.g. 105 vs. Ultegra)?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16020" CreationDate="2013-06-02T09:15:35.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, pedaling while standing will not cause a properly installed pedal to come off. However, if a pedal comes off, it not particularly desirable to be standing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as weight distribution, putting all your weight on one pedal for extended periods will not hurt you bike or cause things to go wrong with the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T09:15:35.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16001" CreationDate="2013-06-02T09:32:53.717" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to be presumptuous enough to ask what I believe is the question behind the OPs question, then answer that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that you have to inflate the tires more often than you like. The question then is what can I do to ensure my tires remain inflated for as long as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answers&#xA;Tubes - these keep the air molecules in. Thicker is better, as is better material. Dump the super thin light weight race tubes and get the thickest one you can find, I would even suggest giving cheap chain store tubes ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires - Bigger tires can carry the same weight at lower pressures. Put in bigger tires and run at lower pressure. This has two effects - lower pressure leaks molecules slower, and more volume means those leaked molecules are noticed less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exotics&#xA;Look at the no-tubes and 'no puncture' slime solutions - these seal the holes the air molecules are escaping from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As previously suggested - invest in a decent pump. If you don't have room or desire for a floor pump by the door, get a pump that uses CO canisters (and wear the cost of canisters). If it is still a pain to pump up your tires - discard the plastic valve caps, and get rims/tubes with presta valves - it will take less than 30 seconds to top up two tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have guessed all these solutions add weight and move away from the best of the best in terms of performance- well, that is expected, nothing is free and super light weight fast racing tires leak air, after all, as long as they stay inflated for the stage - up to 8 Hours, that's all that is needed and any longer is excess weight.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T09:32:53.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16026" CreationDate="2013-06-02T13:58:22.680" Score="2" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought yellow glasses for bicycle, and one lens has little bit less tone (more lighter). Is this defect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7096" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T16:50:41.330" Title="Different tone of lens in glasses for bicycle" Tags="&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-06-02T17:12:56.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16028" CreationDate="2013-06-02T16:25:24.900" Score="7" ViewCount="857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new at biking, and have seen many examples of left-turn situations, but none that quite match this one.  Simply, what is the proper / best way to complete the turn pictured below, or is it smarter just to dismount and act like a pedestrian?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6sza.png&quot; alt=&quot;Major Intersection&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping for a catch-all answer, but if it matters, this is in the California bay area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7097" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T03:29:01.790" Title="Left Turn Across Major Intersection" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;california&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16024" CreationDate="2013-06-02T16:44:30.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably just means that the quality standards aren't too exacting. Kind of like how display panels with a few dead pixels aren't considered defective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could contact the manufacturer to ask whether the problem is covered by warranty, or you could just return them and buy a different brand. There's no point in keeping glasses you dislike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-06-02T16:50:41.330" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T16:50:41.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16025" CreationDate="2013-06-02T16:55:21.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proper way is to signal and merge to the left turn lane. Alternatively you could stay in the right lane, cross the street and stop on the other side. Then wait for a green light and go straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3805" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T16:55:21.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16025" CreationDate="2013-06-02T17:16:25.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming here that, from left to right, S Mathilda Ave has a &quot;right-turn&quot; lane (Lane 1), three &quot;straight on&quot; lanes (Lanes 2, 3 and 4), then two &quot;left turn&quot; lanes (Lanes 5 and 6). (The white car second-from-right appears to be obscuring a left turn arrow painted on the road, correct?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This being the case, my ideal position there would be sitting on that solid white line in between Lane 4 (second-rightmost blue car) and Lane 5 (rightmost white car). I'd want to be to the left of everyone going straight, such that when my light goes green, that position will naturally take me out wide of the cars turning left, putting you neatly onto your arrow on El Camino Real.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'course, as you'll most probably realise, the skill here will be getting into this start position in the first place, but nevertheless that is the ideal position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you take an aerial photo, would you mind waiting until all the cars there are different colours? It'd be far easier if I could say &quot;between the red and the gold cars&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-06-02T21:03:42.350" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T21:03:42.350" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16005" CreationDate="2013-06-02T17:20:53.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your wheel is out of true, this happens under normal conditions as spokes stretch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to need a truing stand, some lubricant, and a a spoke wrench. (I've heard you can use zip-ties attached to each side of your wheel fork, facing inward, then cut to size, but I don't think this makes for very accurate measurements.) Most bike shops I've worked with will let you borrow their stand for a few minutes. If not, find a co-op or make new friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put your wheel in the truing stand and start by lubricating each spoke nipple. Once lubricated, use the guides on the stand to determine where the wheel has been skewed to one side. Select a spoke at that site, opposite the side of the skew, and tighten the spoke to pull the wheel away from the truing stand guides. Also lightly tighten spokes that are next to this initial position (but still on the same side) to even the strain on your spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word on which way to tighten the spoke - remember that you are probably going to view the spoke nipple from across the wheel axle - therefore the directions to turn for tightening is reversed from normal. Also, it is preferable to tighten spokes rather than to loosen them, as the main cause of a wheel being out of true is/are a stretched spoke(s). Even so, be aware that spokes can occasionally be over-tightened, it may be better to loosen a spoke to compensate for a wheel pulling to that side. As  you tighten spokes, you will hear lots of popping/straining sounds of the metal. This is normal, and may continue for a few miles of riding after adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you adjust areas of the wheel that are out of true, slowly tighten the guides on the truing stand to find the next area that needs adjustment. Also be aware of the differences between getting the wheel perfectly in true, as opposed to good enough in true. You can spend an hour truing a wheel, but it probably won't be much better than it was 10-15 minutes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-install you wheel on your bike and adjust your brakes as normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7099" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T17:20:53.360" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9889" CreationDate="2013-06-02T17:29:06.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by other respondents, brakes should be far enough from your wheel rim so that they do not rub on the rim as the wheel spins, but close enough so that you have sufficient stopping power when braking. If you're having trouble with finding this happy medium, you wheel may be out of true and need an adjustment. Brake pads should be evenly spaced on either side of the wheel (with a slight toe-in) and have equal tension on either side to ensure both sides have simultaneous contact with the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For squeaky brakes, assuming your brake pads are relatively new (not old and hardened), the most likely culprit would be an accumulation of brake pad dust on you wheel rim. As you brake, the friction between the rim and brake pad wears away the brake pad and some of this is left on the wheel rim. Excessive amounts contribute to squeaky brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning your wheel rims is easy. Any (disposable) cloth or cotton pads with a bit of rubbing alcohol will work wonders, just be sure to go over each side of the wheel rim a few times to clean it, rather than re-distribute the dust. Also avoid getting the rubbing alcohol on your tire, or on the brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7099" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T17:29:06.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15997" CreationDate="2013-06-02T17:39:34.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not use a mis-matched internal geared hub for your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You risk damage to your gear hub, your frame, or both. Aluminum frames are much stiffer than steel frames, which is good for good for riding, but it is also prone to cracking due to this stiffness (when compared to steel's malleability). Even if you do fit the part, it will be a weak point in the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7099" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T17:39:34.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16001" CreationDate="2013-06-02T18:48:00.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prestacycle markets a home nitrogen system.  Have never used this product.  Bit too pricey for me. Personally a floor pump is a better value.  Different road conditions means different tire pressures for optimal ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7100" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T18:48:00.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16025" CreationDate="2013-06-02T19:05:28.720" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;At any intersection that has marked turn lanes, I position myself inside the outermost turn lane, inside the line enough that I can't be squeezed between a turning car and one going straight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then proceed through the intersection on a slightly wider path than the car will take so as not to impeded traffic any more than possible, and head for the bike lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T19:05:28.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16040" CreationDate="2013-06-02T19:11:36.813" Score="12" ViewCount="4631" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are separate hex (Allen) keys better than a multi-tool for adjusting and &lt;strong&gt;maintaining a bike at home&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclestore.com.au/icetoolz-hex-key-wrenches-36qi.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;separated sets&lt;/a&gt; also have ball-ends for the 4/5/6mm keys:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ewuza.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;IceToolz&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from Torx T25 screws for the disc brakes*, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/cross/day-one/day-one-disc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;my bike&lt;/a&gt; has hex screws mostly everywhere — so a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/i-beam-mini-fold-up-hex-wrench-screwdriver-star-driver-set-ib-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;small multi-tool&lt;/a&gt; would do the trick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ebAex.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, if you had to pick one or the other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does having each hex wrench separate offer any notable advantages? What about torque (e.g. for pedals)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For day-to-day purposes on a modern bike (where most screws are easily accessible), will the ball-ends be useful?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* In my case, I only need the Torx T25 to adjust disc brake pads — little force required.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="6678" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T18:41:19.023" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T18:41:19.023" Title="Separate hex keys vs. combined multi-tool for bike adjustments?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;multi-tool&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16039" CreationDate="2013-06-02T19:40:27.170" Score="2" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike is only 7 months old, but the front derailleur cable fibres are becoming loose i.e. the individual thin metal fibres twised together to form the cable are loosing out. I think I have lost the metal cap which was holding the twisted end of the cable so that those fibres stay twisted. How can I fix this? Could anyone suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T16:52:19.293" Title="How to prevent the derailleur cable fibres getting all over the places?" Tags="&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16034" CreationDate="2013-06-02T19:42:44.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely need the multi-tool to take it with you on your rides. Most multi-tools also come with a flat- and cross-blade, which can come in handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd only look at the separated set as an addition to multi-tool. Though, I don't see much of a reason to get them. Unless maybe when you do a lot of bicycle work - but then you should know better and wouldn't be really asking this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="404" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T19:42:44.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16035" CreationDate="2013-06-02T19:53:29.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I found the solution. I lost my cable crimps and need to fix it probably by duct taping it and also using anti-fray caps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T19:53:29.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16034" CreationDate="2013-06-02T20:43:10.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;the individual keys give you more flexibility than the multitool, but if you're anything like me it won't take long before you lose one of the common ones such as a 5 or 6. Personally I've evolved over the years to own a couple of multitools and a couple more key sets - that way I can generally find &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; when I need it. That's at home - on a ride the multitool is better for me, again for reasons of loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards flexibility, an example that springs to mind is fixing a bottle cage to your frame. Sure, you can do it with a multitool (your photo has got maybe an inch stem?) but it'd probably be easier (i.e. less awkward) with an individual key (with a three or four inch stem). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you mention torque - a good multitool can give quite a bit of torque, so I wouldn't get too stressed about that, but I would certainly suggest that a dedicated torque wrench is a good investment over and above what you're talking about here. For many bike parts I'd be just as worried about over-tightening than under-tightening (especially if your bike is carbon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-06-02T20:58:59.720" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T20:58:59.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16035" CreationDate="2013-06-02T21:13:26.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy cable caps separately, they're actually meant to be crimped on so you can fix them with a crimper or pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know Park tools do something which is basically a really sharp wire cutter, should prevent fraying in the first place. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/professional-cable-and-housing-cutter-cn-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This tool&lt;/a&gt; is showing on their site now but I have one (bought many years ago) which looks a bit different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't need to resort to duct tape!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T21:13:26.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16034" CreationDate="2013-06-02T22:17:05.027" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For use at home&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, there's no question that separate keys are more useful and more economical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A multi-tool has limitations that make it cumbersome to use in tight spots because all the keys are attached to the tool.  Separate keys suffer no such limitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Separate keys can be bought and replaced individually and very inexpensively -- not so with a multi-tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't buy the ridiculously expensive set of keys you show in your post.  Just buy the keys you actually need. Drop by any local hardware or automotive parts store and buy the hex keys you actually need.  They are inexpensive and should last a lifetime as long as you don't buy the cheapest thing they have.  Like all tools, it pays to buy quality.  Although you can buy them online, I prefer to buy tools where mechanics buy them.  Automotive supply shops such as NAPA in the US are usually your best bet.  They cater to mechanics so they won't sell cheap crap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque: There's no way you'll ever produce correct torque with a multi-tool unless you're an experienced mechanic who &quot;knows by feel&quot; from thousands of repair jobs.  Individual wrenches are also longer and give you more torque than a multi-tool.  If you need even more torque in order to remove things like pedals, you just use a bit of pipe to add leverage.  I keep a narrow piece of steel pipe about 12 inches long in my toolbox just for this.  You just slip it over the long end of the Allen key and it gives you all the torque you'll ever need.  Some people prefer the wrenches with plastic handles attached such as those made by Park Tools, but that's purely a matter of personal preference.  I prefer plain wrenches with no handles on them since the handle means it can only be used in one orientation, not two like a wrench without a handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losing them: My set of Allen wrenches dates to the 70s. I don't understand how you lose tools from your own garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But on the road? Yeah, sure, I carry a multi-tool like everyone else; but your question was about home use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T18:07:22.163" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T18:07:22.163" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16043" CreationDate="2013-06-02T22:39:37.793" Score="2" ViewCount="1192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke a spoke on my rear wheel, and ended up messing with it a bit too much - I may need to get it re-dished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a common market model bike, can I simply take the wheel into my bike shop, instead of the whole bike? Will it work when I bring it back home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is I can't ride it in because the disc brake is scraping on the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7101" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T07:03:29.287" Title="Can I get a wheel dished without the bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16041" CreationDate="2013-06-02T23:08:52.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a dished wheel can be built or re-dished without a frame handy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to get the wheel to revolve, the rim must be equidistant between the insides of the stays/fork. The reason why most rear wheels/front wheels with disk brakes are dished is because the hub flanges aren't centered between the ends of the axle. This is to accommodate the width of a cassette on a rear wheel and the space taken up by a disk on a front wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To accomplish the desired dish, a mechanic will lace a hub to a rim using spokes that will result in the correct rim placement. There are all sorts of calculators out there to correct for the offset from the hub flange. The spokes on opposite sides of the wheel will be at different tensions and lengths, as opposed to a dishless wheel which has spokes at the same tension and length on both sides. People commonly break spokes on the drive side of their rear wheel - this is because those spokes are generally at a higher tension than those opposite it. Ideally, a wheel is dishless so as to evenly distribute the stress on all spokes. To achieve this, there are many offset rims which compensate for some of the hub flange offset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However, none of that will effect the disc or caliper function unless you've misplaced some shims reinstalling the disk or moved the caliper.&lt;/strong&gt; If you have hydraulic brakes and pulled the brake lever without the wheel installed, the brake pads will probably just need to be pushed back into the caliper housing with something flat and blunt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="1036" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T07:03:29.287" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T07:03:29.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16035" CreationDate="2013-06-03T01:14:30.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of bike shops will give you a few if you ask and buy something else on your way out. You They are soft aluminum and are a dime a dozen. You could bite them on or you can use pliers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just twist your cable strands back in place and then crimp away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T01:14:30.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16025" CreationDate="2013-06-03T01:17:32.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I up voted John P's answer. In addition I would split trafic and get a the front of the outer most lane. I would make eye contact with the driver of the car behind me, too. It'll take seconds to get across that intersection and in CA you can split lanes to get in front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T01:17:32.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16035" CreationDate="2013-06-03T02:04:09.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran out of cable ends on day and used superglue. Worked surprisingly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T02:04:09.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-03T03:49:40.700" Score="2" ViewCount="4748" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, this is my first road bike. I did quite a bit of researching and read lots and lots of guides/tips on how to choose the bike you want and all of that. The problem is that you can't really &quot;feel&quot; the bike on a 5-6m test ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's what happened: I test rode a Trek Domane 2.0, size 58, and then later test rode a Domane 2.0, size 60. As they come from factory, the 60 felt better but after a 11 mile ride today (I got the bike yesterday), I'm starting to feel like it may be too big for me. For example, standing over the frame, it actually presses against my body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking back, I find it weird that the bike shop that I went to didn't check for that. What I'm left wondering is if they'd exchange the bike after today's ride. Honestly, one can't really feel the fit on a ride around the block and before any adjustments. I bought the bike at that shop kind of expecting a fit, but they never did anything, which got me a bit disappointed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is two-parted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the fact that I can't stand over the frame comfortably a deal breaker?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is an exchange to be expected from a bike shop after a (short) ride?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7104" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T20:10:43.100" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T22:15:08.153" Title="Should/can I return a new bike that seems too big?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13419" CreationDate="2013-06-03T04:37:57.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am no expert too, having doing personal bike fits after reading hundreds of website make me more confused than better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, after two years of adjustment I do finally come close to a best personal fit at this moment.&#xA;Bike's fit that works now may change as we age, a year is long enough for that change. Blessed are those who believe on so call bike fits formulae or calculation.&#xA;Here my two cents worth of ideas and experiences.&#xA;For a start, you can take some reference from competitive.com fit calculation but please do not trust it 100% as I personally wrote to them after having pains where the guy in the company says the calculation do goes hair wire with certain data input.&#xA;Seat height: you can use inseam formulae , seat height = inseam x 0.883 but that is 2cm too low for me. I used my shoes' heel to have the most extension when my crank arm is inline with seat tube. Again you need to try that out till you feel like you have no resistance in throwing your foot on every smooth paddling circle, that the point of sweet spot of correct seat height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat forward/ backward: you may use kops concept but it not a fix rule. Again you have to get a relative point where every stroke of cycling is smooth and effortless, relatively. If you like fast cadence, push the seat more forward vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total reach; again lots of crabs on the calculation too. My method is, adjust your seat forward/ backward till you feels at home both on the hood and drops. If you can ride on the drops for half an hour without going for the top bar, most properly you got the correct reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handlebar height ; same as above and good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This website is the only place where I hear someone posting correctly that the handlebar reach is measured from saddle centre to the hood tip and not the stem/ handlebar centre as handlebar comes with different shape and reach too. That is 100% correct where most so called bike fitter miss the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you got your total reach than adjust your seat to your original position and buy a new stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary:&#xA;1. Seat height.&#xA;2. Seat forward/ backward position.&#xA;3. Marked the seat position at the saddle rail and the seat post height.&#xA;4. Reposition the seat forward/ backward position to get your comfortable total reach.&#xA;5. Record your total reach fig.&#xA;6. Do the same for your handlebar height adjustment.&#xA;7. Now, set your seat height &amp;amp; forward/ backward position to your marked points.&#xA;8. Measure the total reach now and the seat top vs handlebar top, record the two readings.&#xA;9. Compare to your first readings, you will now know what stem length to buy and how many stem spacer to use.&#xA;10. Don't do any bike fit when you are tired or weak from days of cycling, a tired body is not flexible and will leads to very confusing bike fits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7105" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T04:37:57.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16047" CreationDate="2013-06-03T07:01:39.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer is that the answer to (2) will vary from shop to shop. At a smaller shop that deals in custom order high end bikes there is generally much less of a chance to return/exchange. At the bigger shops (Performance, REI, etc) returns are generally much easier. In any case, it can't hurt to go talk with the shop and try to exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For (1), if you have issues with standover on a 60, a 58 is likely not going to be much better as it's only 2 cm shorter (79.6/81.7).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T07:01:39.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16034" CreationDate="2013-06-03T13:12:43.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should always have a multi-tool.  There are few cases where I really need separate Allen keys on the road. However, I tend to keep a long 5mm Allen key for tightening Drop bar lever clamps, which can't be accessed easily by a stubby multi tool.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ball ends can help when you can't got a straight shot at a bolt and have to try to mate the wrench at a gentle angle, it has more chance of stripping your bolt though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that separate keys can give you better torque, but I find that more useful for removing stuck bolts (or overtightened seatpost clamps) than tightening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend carrying a multi-tool that has a chain tool on it.  When you need it, it's a godsend. If you're running a 9 or 10 speed bike, a spare quicklink is very good to have.  Additionally, depending on the bike, I like to carry a separate small crescent wrench with a 15mm capacity for track nuts, cantilever cable hanger yolks, and rack or brake nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T13:12:43.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16047" CreationDate="2013-06-03T15:24:20.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it was downright irresponsible of the shop to sell you a bike that so obviously doesn't fit you. They should have done at least some basic fit testing, which clearly they did not. The trouble is, you're at their mercy now.  Since it's not a warranty issue, they're not obligated to exchange it. So I would be very polite in how I asked, and I'd make sure I asked the manager or owner, not some 18-year old sales guy.  But if they say no, I would push harder.  If they still refuse, I'd get a lot less polite and make it clear I would be very vocal about my displeasure with friends and the biking community, including online sources such as yelp.com.  I would then sell the bike while you can describe it as virtually brand new, and go to another shop that will fit you properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T15:24:20.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15964" CreationDate="2013-06-03T15:50:30.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're buying a new bike at a bike shop I'd do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask yourself:&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you know what type of riding you plan on doing? &#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you plan to race on this bike and/or commute on this bike?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you prefer a specialized bike or a versatile bike? &#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have a strong preference to disc vs rim brakes?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you plan to use this with racks / fenders, does it have mounts for those? &#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is your budget? How flexible are you on it?  Is it enough to get the bike you actually want? &#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does your budget include accessories like a lock / helmet / bottle cages / fenders / racks? &#xA;&lt;li&gt;How will you lock your bike? (don't use a cable lock if you're parking your bike in the city)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask the shop:&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this bike fit me properly?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this bike match the style of riding I want to do? &#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do this bike compare to other bikes made for the same purpose that cost more or less than this model?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I test ride the bike?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you offer a tune up with purchase?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What essentials should I purchase with this bike?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much does it cost to install accessories at time of purchase? &#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other maintenance should I have done and at what frequency? How much can I expect to spend on this?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the warranty period for this bike and it's components?&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has your shop checked the wheel tension and truing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T15:50:30.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16089" CreationDate="2013-06-03T17:05:37.697" Score="2" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am researching into faired recumbents, bicycles or trikes, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.velomobiel.nl/quest/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velomobile Quest&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sunrider-cycles.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sunrider&lt;/a&gt;.  I'm interested in cycling long distances as a daily commute and for touring, but have no interest in racing or mountain-biking.  My current, upright bicycle (Koga Miyata) has a Rohloff gear and on my trips, I use both the smallest and the largest gear regularly.  According to Rohloff, typical derailleurs &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/en/technology/speedhub/gear_range_comparison/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;do not have a higher gear range than the Rohloff Speedhub&lt;/a&gt; (which has 526%), although Wikipedia reports &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_gearing#Gearing_range&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gear ranges up to 700%&lt;/a&gt; for derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faired recumbents can be really heavy (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sunrider-cycles.com/en/specificaties.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;45 kg for the Sunrider&lt;/a&gt;) and really fast (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bluevelo.com/Page_2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2% downhill, 100W, 63.8 km/h, but also 30% faster than racers when flat&lt;/a&gt;).  Really fast means one wants to have a very high gear, but really heavy means one also wants a really small gear to make it up steep slopes.  Considering that I'm already using the full 526% range on my current upright bicycle, I wonder; do heavy, faired recumbents need more gear range than upright bicycles?  I love my Rohloff, but should one consider getting a higher gear range on a faired recumbent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T18:06:44.990" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T00:49:39.957" Title="Do faired recumbents need more gear range?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16058" CreationDate="2013-06-03T18:35:15.867" Score="6" ViewCount="3488" Body="&lt;p&gt;H, I'm pretty new to bike maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This weekend I tried breaking my chain to clean it. This went well up until I accidentally popped the chain pin out and as a result had to remove a link. This chain came with the bike and AFAIK was well fitted before. It's a near-new hybrid commuter road bike. It still rides OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, should I be at all worried that my chain is now about 1.5&quot; shorter? How much leeway would be typical in a new bike? What rules of thumb exist around chain length?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7111" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T19:25:57.600" Title="I shortened my chain, is this bad?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16057" CreationDate="2013-06-03T19:19:32.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Never run with a chain that is too short, except in an emergency.&amp;quot; (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Derailleur Adjustment page&lt;/a&gt;). If a short chain ends up on the big chainring and big sprocket at the same time, then the derailleur will probably get damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid damage, there should be at least one full link of overlap when the chain is put around the big chainring and big sprocket (with the rear derailleur bypassed).&#xA;Unless the chain was too long to begin with (which is unlikely), you should get a new chain.&#xA;You can also by a single link instead of getting a whole new chain, and if you get a replacement master link, it will be easier to disassemble your chain for cleaning in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T19:25:57.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16061" CreationDate="2013-06-03T20:04:29.027" Score="9" ViewCount="3539" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any advantage to soft pedaling over coasting?   Does it provide any power to moving forward?  Is there any aid it gives to your leg muscles recovering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1693" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T18:06:03.560" Title="What's the purpose of soft pedaling?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-03T20:32:03.117" Score="10" ViewCount="2558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.premiumbikegear.com/biologic/convenience/postpump-seatpost.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.premiumbikegear.com/biologic/convenience/postpump-seatpost.html&lt;/a&gt; and thought it seemed like a cool idea. But if it was really such a great idea, I would have expected to see more people using something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any major shortcomings from integrating a tire pump into the seat post?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2lD9s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7112" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T23:17:27.787" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T01:02:27.830" Title="Is a seat post with an integrated pump a good idea?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2013-06-03T20:48:36.963" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;By this do you mean pedalling when unnecessary (and without increasing the bike's speed), for example, on descents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will do this on long descents just to keep my legs turning over and to prevent them getting too cold. But I will mix it with coasting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a theory that keeping the legs moving will keep your blood flowing and help pump lactic acid out of the muscles. I can go along with this as I've felt the benefit, or at least I think I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard it argued that it's advantageous as regards making your technique smoother, but I don't think that's particularly proven. But no personal experience, I've never really concentrated on my technique to that extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, you can talk to racing cyclists who will often say that soft pedalling is preferred when riding in a peloton, purely because coasting implies to other people that you're about to hit the brakes. Again, no personal experience. I know some of the regulars on here are either racers or ex-racers, maybe they can confirm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of speed (or power) surely it makes no difference, purely by the definition of &quot;soft pedalling&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T21:20:23.163" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T21:20:23.163" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16025" CreationDate="2013-06-03T20:52:11.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only really safe way to do this is to get off your bike and be a pedestrian. Depending on the drivers where you live, the amount of traffic, and your skill and confidence, this might just be the safest option. It might take you an extra 2 minutes to get where you are going. It might differ day to day depending on how much traffic is on the road, and other conditions such as the amount of lighting.  You can also do the &quot;pseudo-pedestrian&quot; where you ride your bike straight across as if you were going straight, and then dismount, get on the side walk, walk back to the other cross road, and head straight across in the east direction once the light changes. Can be almost as fast a taking the turn directly, and many times safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T20:52:11.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16060" CreationDate="2013-06-03T20:58:12.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A seat post pump would offer a type of convenience that may not be applicable to a wide range of riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;High-end seat posts are made out of carbon fiber. Even many mid-range aluminum bikes have carbon-fiber seat posts. Using an aluminum seat post pump would negate the benefits of carbon seat posts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CO2 canister pumps offer more convenience than a seat post pump. People who are looking to spend the most money on gadgets seem to gravitate more towards CO2 canisters than hand pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, a seat post pump probably has the most appeal for commuters, but they might be more interested in buying a cheaper pump than one that saves a bit of weight by being combined with a seat post. There's probably not a fatal flaw with this type of design, but there are reasons that it isn't as common as the basic frame pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T20:58:12.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16081" CreationDate="2013-06-03T21:08:19.843" Score="-1" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought the NOVATEC GOLD PISTA hubs (&lt;a href=&quot;http://novatecusa.net/project/a166sbt-rh/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://novatecusa.net/project/a166sbt-rh/&lt;/a&gt;) and the H PLUS SON SL42 rims (&lt;a href=&quot;http://hplusson.com/products/SL42&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hplusson.com/products/SL42&lt;/a&gt;) with 32 spokes.&#xA;Someone know how does long I must buy the spokes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5195" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T18:03:40.250" Title="Spoke length with NOVATEC GOLD PISTA hubs and H PLUS SON SL42 rims" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-06-06T13:01:16.280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2013-06-03T22:30:10.713" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the response provided by PeteH, I use &quot;soft pedaling&quot; when coasting to a stop on my downtube shifter/derailleur-equipped road bike in order to change gears before a stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bikes (such as those with internal hubs) do not need any chain motion to shift gears, but my bike does. That's the only concrete reason why I would employ this technique, outside of the points outlined by PeteH. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6947" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T22:30:10.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15905" CreationDate="2013-06-04T00:57:54.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change the tire before it blows-out, and see what might have caused the damage in the first place. It's possible that the mis-matched tire size contributed to the wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're not purposefully rubbing something on the sidewall and that your tires are properly inflated, the most likely culprit would be a mis-aligned brake pad. Take a look at your brake pads, one at a time, and make sure they only touch the wheel rim as the tire spins. Make sure they still only touch the wheel rim when they are engaged. Adjust anything that hits the wheel wall at any point during the tire rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it looks like it the damage occurred in only that spot on the wheel, it's possible that your wheel is out of true, and the proper adjustment needed may be to true the wheel. This by itself may solve your problem, but would subsequently need a brake adjustment to account for the re-aligned wheel anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7099" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T00:57:54.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15917" CreationDate="2013-06-04T01:13:05.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to give a general estimate on how often brake pads should be replaced, as conditions vary. (Including how often you ride, temperature, humidity, do you store your bike in direct sunlight, how old the brakes are, etc.) If it looks worn, replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting brake tension via the screw nuts on the handlebars is the best way to make adjustments. As brakes wear down with use, you will need to make these adjustments to compensate. Needing to do this ever month or two seems within the normal range for how often you use your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor to keep in mind is that cables will stretch with use. If the screw nuts on the handlebars are at their limit, you will need to loosen the nut holding the cable at the brake to adjust the cable. (When you make this adjustment, make sure to reset the screw nuts on the handlebar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your recently purchased brake pads seem fine. I've found that a manufacture will include the housing even if it's not needed. Just be sure to toe-in your brakes slightly, and reset the handlebar screw nuts (and cables) as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7099" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T01:13:05.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15930" CreationDate="2013-06-04T01:16:09.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have slack in the cable, cut the frayed end and cap as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have enough slack, use JB Weld to prevent further unraveling. Work it into the fibers, and wrap with duct tape to hold tight while it cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7099" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T01:16:09.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16035" CreationDate="2013-06-04T01:19:03.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use JB Weld to prevent further unraveling. Work it into the fibers, and wrap with duct tape to hold tight while it cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7099" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T01:19:03.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15927" CreationDate="2013-06-04T02:46:43.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember one of the old Discovery Channel team mechanics, said the difference between Trek sizes isn't that big (2 cm) so their riders could use 1 size smaller or bigger. Other than fit, there's also personal preference, like going smaller to get a lighter frame, and pros do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, don't sweat about it too much. If you have a pretty good guess about your perfect size, than 1 size smaller or bigger wouldn't matter much. Even if you did a test ride, I doubt that it will help much if you didn't have a good idea of what to expect. Even if you could get a perfect size (53 cm), because it's only based on seat tube length, it might not give you the perfect fit still because the top tube length could be shorter/longer for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can adjust differences in seat tube length by adjusting seat post and switch stems to accommodate top tube length. I used to ride 52 and now riding 50 madone because the 52 was sold out and that 50 was heavily discounted. The shop shown me that even with smaller frame the measurements are still the same as the old bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you're thinking about ironman, I think you should go with the 54 because the the wheelbase is longer and will give more stability. Usually TT bikes have longer wheelbase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T02:46:43.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2013-06-04T07:17:01.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When riding in a group you often find that small changes of speed can mean that you do not need to pedal when it slows down and have small bursts of power when it speeds up.  By soft pedaling when the group slows down your legs will already be spinning when its speeds up again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T07:17:01.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2013-06-04T13:25:45.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have often heard, and I agree, that the &quot;muscular pump&quot; is partly responsible for higher  blood flow to specific muscle regions during activity. The reason is that between muscular contractions the difference in pressure is such as to draw blood from the arterial side to the venous side. &#xA;It is a hypothesis and has not been conclusively proved. That may be the reason why some athletes do it, and others don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2652158/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cassey, Darren; Hunt, Emma (2008), &quot;Cardiovascular function in humans during exercise: role of the muscle pump&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.academic.ru/dic.nsf/enwiki/322708&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The muscle pump raises muscle blood flow during locomotion.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clifford PS, Hamann JJ, Valic Z, Buckwalter JB. Counterpoint: The muscle pump is not an important determinant of muscle blood flow during exercise. J Appl Physiol. 2005 Jul;99(1):372-4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7106" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T13:25:45.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-04T14:20:16.580" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I am pretty new here, and I am not acknowledged with the bicycle terminology in English, so this topic might be a duplicate. Sorry in advance.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when I put more pressure while pedaling, the chain over-jumps (some teeth of the gear ring are being missed). Upon observation I think the problem is in the front gear rings (they're 3), but I am not quite sure. When the chain is on higher gear (smaller gear ring) on the back ones - it jumps more that when I am on a lighter gear (bigger gear ring). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions what can be the problem and how can I fix this ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. the teeth on the gear rings seem to be fine and not waster or smth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6669" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T15:15:08.150" Title="how to fix gear ring that over-jumps" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16074" CreationDate="2013-06-04T15:15:08.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your issue sounds like a worn chain/cassette.  Take the bike to your LBS (Local Bike Shop) and have them look at it. You can also check yourself to see if the rear cassette teeth look like sharks teeth, that's generally a good indicator of wear.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9122/how-to-tell-when-to-replace-cassette&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is another post that may help you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally skipping teeth is a sign of a worn cassette/chain, but it could also be adjustment issues from the derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T15:15:08.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-04T15:56:40.680" Score="20" ViewCount="5523" Body="&lt;p&gt;When commuting with a bike I usually stick to the right lane (I am based in the USA). When approaching a right turn only lane while biking, should I stay in the turn lane and signal to the car behind me that you I'm going forward rather than turning right, or should I move to the center or left lane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-06-04T17:01:17.653" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T15:58:12.300" Title="Bicycling and a Right Turn Only Lane?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16076" CreationDate="2013-06-04T16:41:06.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you continue straight from a right-turn only lane, what happens at the other side of the intersection? Either there's no lane for you, or else there's an area where cars will be pulling out to turn right onto your street. On the other hand, if you're out in the &quot;go straight&quot; lane, you're visible and predictable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, the question is, &quot;How early do I need to merge into the go-straight lane?&quot; The more difficult the merge, the earlier I'll start looking for a gap in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention trying to &quot;signal to the car behind you that you are going forward,&quot; but I'm not aware of a signal that wouldn't be misconstrued as &quot;Pass me.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6785" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T16:41:06.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16076" CreationDate="2013-06-04T16:42:05.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen cyclists use a few different options in this case. Whether each option is appropriate depends on local laws, intersection layout, and traffic flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claim the right-most lane that goes straight (don't go into the turning lane). This is probably the safest option (at least for fast riders) because it makes the cyclist very predictable for drivers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride in and take the turning lane. This is usually pretty safe at intersections where the turning lane is empty and where there's a wide lane or bike lane on the other side of the intersection. From the perspective of drivers, the cyclist is just sticking to the right-hand side of the road. Note that this is legal in some states but not others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride in between the non-turning lane and the turning lane. This works pretty well when traffic is stopped, and you can stop on or near the lane line. Turning lanes are often wide enough to leave room for cars who are turning to pass. Note that this is legal in some states but not others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go on the sidewalk and wait at the crosswalk. Uncomfortable and inexperienced riders seem to prefer this option, but weaving between the road and sidewalks seems very unsafe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use all of the first 3 options depending on the amount of traffic and the layout of the road and intersection. For example options 2 and 3 work pretty well when a bike lane opens up through the intersection, though they may not be legal in all jurisdictions. Look at local laws and pay attention to what other cyclists do. It's important to be visible and predictable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-06-05T01:42:16.600" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T01:42:16.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16076" CreationDate="2013-06-04T16:44:27.117" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are on the road, you follow the same rules of the road. A right-turn-only lane is for turning right, if you're going straight you don't belong there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6486" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T16:44:27.117" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16076" CreationDate="2013-06-04T16:45:29.687" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key thing, is that you never want to be to the right of cars that are turning right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the exact lane setup and traffic amounts, I would do one of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Merge left into the go-straight (left) lane, so that anybody turning right is in a separate lane to the right of me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be in the center or left third of the right-turn lane, so that anybody turning right is blocked by me and has to wait for me to get into the intersection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Split the lane, riding in between the left and right lanes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly which I actually do depends on the traffic levels and what the far side of the intersection looks like. I would only do the 2nd or 3rd options if right-turning traffic is low and there's clearly space on the far side of the intersection for me to be to the right of the going-straight traffic (2 lanes, or 1 lane with a bike lane or wide shoulder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To repeat: the main thing is to not be to the right of cars turning right. Get to their left or directly in front of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T16:45:29.687" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16064" CreationDate="2013-06-04T18:03:40.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting the right spoke length requires some fairly accurate measurements and is dependent on the pattern that you want to lace the wheels (radial, 2x, 3x, 4x) and is further complicated in the rear as you have drive-side and non-drive side (possibly not an issue with the single-speed/fixie hubs you have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bike shops are familiar with spoke length calculators and the measurements that need to be put in them (and may have access to calculators that allow them to enter the components instead of measurements). If you buy/order the spokes from the LBS, chances are they will help you determine the correct size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T18:03:40.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16076" CreationDate="2013-06-04T18:17:01.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical case where where I encounter this is transitioning from a rideable shoulder to a right-turn lane.  What I typically do, depending on the length of the turn lane and the amount of traffic, is stay on the right edge of the turn lane for that period of time where I can safely do so, to allow cars coming from behind to make a right turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when I'm sufficiently near the intersection and I see an appropriate break in the traffic, I move left and ride just to the right of the dividing line between through lane and turn lane (effectively &quot;claiming&quot; the turn lane).  From that position I continue across the intersection (assuming no traffic control to the contrary), being sure to keep an eye behind (with helmet mirror) to make sure no one tries to turn right around me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on a road with no rideable shoulder I would instead stay in the through lane all the way, &quot;claiming&quot; the lane as I approach the intersection to discourage those who might try to turn right from the through lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T18:17:01.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15951" CreationDate="2013-06-04T19:45:27.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I change to this kind of tires because of a puncture every ride, yes, every time I went for a ride and it reduced my puncture record to one every three rides. The kind of punctures were made by small wires generally left by exploted truck tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6473" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T19:45:27.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16076" CreationDate="2013-06-04T19:56:34.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not the car &lt;strong&gt;behind&lt;/strong&gt; you that matters. Whether you turn or go forward does not affect any decision which that car driver is going to make. You should rather ensure that the car which is behind you stays behind you, and does not try to take you over as it approaches the turn. You do that by checking over your shoulder and moving into the lane to fully occupy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By going forward out of a right turn lane, you are making a confusing move which can surprise the drivers approaching the intersection from other directions. For instance, a driver turning left from the opposite direction.  Those are the cars that are more likely to hit you.  Not only is it a confusing move, it is illegal: a &quot;moving violation&quot; of a traffic rule, like running a stop sign. A driver using a right-turn-only lane to pass on the right and go straight can receive a hefty fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should move away from the curb to the left side of the right turning lane, just to the left of the stripe between that lane and the straight going lane so that you are technically in that lane. Or at least be on the stripe. Your move to the correct lane is an indication if your intent that you are going straight. Your other behavior should also have the unambiguous interpretation that you're going straight. Though it's not an official signal, extending your left arm forward and pointing with your index finger to indicate that you're going straight is not a bad idea, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, right turn lanes sometimes have exceptions. Certain vehicles (for instance buses) can go straight.  These are marked on the pavement and drivers have to know that. In my city there are right turning lanes which have an exception: bicycles can go straight. This is clearly shown with pavement markings. Streets where these occur have designated bicycle lanes clearly visible to drivers.  When going straight through these turning lanes, cyclists should occupy the whole lane, and not allow right turning cars to pass them on the left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T19:56:34.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16076" CreationDate="2013-06-04T22:36:22.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IF YOU ARE CYCLING ON A ROAD THAT HAS OMNI-DIRECTIONAL FLOW OF TRAFFIC&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You should simply signal to turn right if you need to or just carry on going forward. If the right-hand turn is into a road with bi-directional traffic flow, watch for any cars approaching from the right when you going straight forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IF YOU ARE CYCLING ON A ROAD THAT HAS BI-DIRECTIONAL TRAFFIC FLOW&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Same as before; signal right (if you want to turn right) or keep going forward. Also, keep an eye on the oncoming or waiting traffic at the junctions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common factor in both cases is watching behind your left-shoulder to check for any oncoming traffic before changing lanes or making turns. This is a good gesture and pays off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you must remember is that unless approaching a junction-turn to left, you should never position yourself unnecessarily in the left-hand lane as it may block heavy traffic flow from behind (car drivers may curse you and honk). Please stay on the rightmost side of your road (without hitting pedestrians yourself on the kerb) so that the cars can simply overtake you gently. This is exactly what we do in the UK (only on the LH-side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps. You can find lots of videos on YouTube that may help you envisage your actions more practically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastEditorUserId="6420" LastEditDate="2013-06-04T23:01:25.040" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T23:01:25.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2013-06-05T00:28:19.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;30 of the last 40 years (10 years off due to illness &amp;amp; injuries) cycling as a commuter, racing or combo of both.  Bit of a heart defect, too old, too slow, too out of form to consider getting back into any form of racing.  But I like cycling.  Cost to get the '95 LiteSpeed refitted was more than budgeted for cycling.  Less expensive alternative was a quality FGSS. Running single-speed due to the hilly terrain I ride on. 42x18 gearing.  Bit over geared on some of the climbs, under geared on the descents. Spinning away on the flats 19mph give or take 1 mph.  Downhills would be tough running fixed. SS means spinning out at 27-29mph and then freewheeling. Rural area. Hipsters? We have old hippies &amp;amp; red necks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom Line: 1. inexpensive, 2. simple maintenance, 3. Fun&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7100" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T00:28:19.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2013-06-05T00:43:48.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just based on personal experience. No to all your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jacques Anquetil, when time trialing, was rumored to incorporate a soft pedal stroke every few revolutions.  With his smooth pedaling and only archival vintage video it's hard to tell.  Could be baloney like the special oxygenated recovery beverage the Soviet track cyclist used.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7100" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-06-05T01:43:56.833" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T01:43:56.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16055" CreationDate="2013-06-05T00:49:39.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes, but a Rohloff works for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been riding a Rohloff-equipped RotoVelo on and off for a couple of years now. I did play with the gearing a little when I got it and it's pretty usable now. The RotoVelo weighs about 33kg and I live in a relatively flat city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have it set up so that spinning reasonably fast in bottom gear I'm doing about walking speed - say 3km/hr. That way I can go up overpasses and the sort of hills we get in Melbourne and Sydney with a bit of work. Set up that way I spin out at about 80kph. Frankly, at 80kph I've usually stopped pedaling and I'm just going &quot;wheeeeee!&quot;. My top speed ever is over 100kph, which was a bit scary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I stop at a traffic light I shift all the way down then back up a couple. And I mean all the way down, typically at 30-40kph cruise speed I'm in gear 9 or higher, so it's much easier to just twist all the way than try to remember what gear I'm in. Which is an advantage of the Rohloff - all the gear intervals are the same so you can just keep shifting without worrying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible to combine a Rohloff with a front derailleur if you really need to. I suggest waiting until you have the velo before committing, but make sure you can if you need to - most velo makers normally ship deraillers, so getting them to leave the front derailleur post in place shouldn't be an issue. With your small rear wheel (most velos are 406/20&quot;) the low gear should be fine with the Rohloff 2.1x gearing requirement, it'll be a question of how big a chainring you can fit in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For touring I'd be tempted to use lower ratios than for commuting. With heavy gear in the bike and more hills in the country I found that I was pushing the velo more often than I would prefer. Partly that's from the heat build - lack of ventilation becomes an issue when you have to work really hard to keep the vehicle moving at all up a hill. Not being able to pedal faster than (say) 60kph wouldn't bother me, but being able to sit back and grind slowly up long hills would be better than pushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T00:49:39.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16060" CreationDate="2013-06-05T01:02:27.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the photo is a bit misleading - even the 33.9mm diameter post-pump is only 580mm long. The smaller diameter ones are only 350mm long. So it's more of a compact high pressure pump than a proper floor pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At $25 I expect it to be cheap and awful. A decent aluminium seatpost costs that much without the pump. I would be concerned that it would wear out, and parts would not be available. I have seen other types of seatpost pumps and the only one that seemed to work was a $100+ one built into the very long seatpost of a folding bike. The one I saw in a mountain bike combined the irritation of having a bike seat attached to one end of a bike pump with the poor build quality of a gimmick. From memory that one broke - and having your seatpost break is not a fun experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't mention the weight - it's quite probably heavier than most combinations of seatpost plus pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem with having the pump inside the seatpost is that you don't see it. So you're unlikely to maintain it, or even check it on a regular basis. One attached to the frame or in your toolkit is more visible. And unless there's a scale engraved into it, every time you pull it out you're going to have to readjust the height of your seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest looking at other sub-$25 bike pumps and thinking carefully about how cheap the pump part has to be for them to add a seatpost to the mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T01:02:27.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16092" CreationDate="2013-06-05T02:57:29.540" Score="3" ViewCount="2058" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little new to bike riding, I've only been a commuter for the past couple of years so maybe I'm only now observant of this sort of thing. So over the past few days I've noticed people commuting in what looks like stuff you would wear to the office. I literally saw a guy riding his bike in a shirt and tie today!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted it's still not too hot out, I live in Manitoba and lately it's been around 20-25, but has it suddenly become a thing to look like a fashion model while commuting to work or are the Humans around me just denim-wearing demigods who can't break a sweat? As for me, I'm usually wearing crappy t-shirt and a thin pair of shorts and I still sweat like a pig on my 8km commute to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess what I'm trying to ask is whether or not this is normal behavior, maybe I'm just out of shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5504" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T03:33:00.637" Title="Riding in nice office/casual clothes?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16091" CreationDate="2013-06-05T05:50:00.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think everyone rides according to their preference and purpose. If you ride to exercise and break a sweat, then you probably won't wear your work clothes. But if you're like most commuters, you want to ride in comfort, for the most part, and appear presentable when your ride is finished. And as was suggested in the comments, riders choose their clothing, in part, by the distance and time it takes to travel, then perhaps change when they get to the office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/308/how-to-clean-up-at-work-after-a-commute&quot;&gt;great related question here&lt;/a&gt; -- sometimes you can change and freshen up once you get to work. Other times, it may not be as feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, my ride is similar to yours, about 9.6 km (mostly flat), and I ride to an office in shorts and a T-shirt. Since my ride to work is generally against a light wind, I shift down a notch and take it a little easier so the breeze cools me, even when it's toasty in the sun, and by the time I get to work, it's a matter of a little freshening up in the bathroom before getting started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question I linked to and some of the related ones to the right are pretty instructive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T15:29:04.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13674" CreationDate="2013-06-05T07:15:02.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If possible, please use alternative transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really really persistent and want to repair your commuter bike rather than using other means, there are glues and patches available online (even on the high-street shops). I have seen them and they are okay for a normal dry weather day to fix the tyre and keep going. BUT I STILL WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THEM because if the weather is hot, they might affect the tyre. It is always good to have a backup tyre, but hey! you cannot predict that it will have trouble when you are at home (may be at work?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to preempt and avoid this kind of problem is to check your tyres every 2-3 months, or earlier if you have had quite a rough tarmac to go through recently. Tyre cracks are also affected when you keep your bike outside overnight for a long period. Atmospheric pressure, humidity, temperature, etc. affect the tyres. keep that in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T07:15:02.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16091" CreationDate="2013-06-05T07:57:11.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those people you mentioned seeing in 'office clothing' most likely don't have a very long commute. Depending on where you live it may be like here in Switzerland; it has become some kind of trend. People show off their dutch style bicycles and feel awfully cool, which might explain why you perceive them as looking like fashion models. You will also notice how many young and trendy guys ride a women's bike because they idealize the authentic dutch hippie bike. I just pass by and smile at their confusion regarding bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my part I ride ~ 10km to work on my old Batavus Champion, in every season. A little perspiration is normal, but I don't really need to change clothes when I arrive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the key to successful commuting over longer distance is having an exceptionally good deodorant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7106" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T07:57:11.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6315" CreationDate="2013-06-05T15:23:21.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What distinguishes the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007TJEQXM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;POC Trabec&lt;/a&gt; helmet is the MIPS System. There are a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mipshelmet.com/find-a-helmet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;few other helmets&lt;/a&gt; available on the market with MIPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product description for the helmet mentions this: &quot;MIPS system, letting the outer shell and liner move in relation to each other and thereby reducing the rotational forces to the brain&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MIPS page describes it like this:&#xA;&quot;The brain is surrounded by a low-friction cushion of cerebrospinal fluid. MIPS imitates the brain's way of protecting itself by giving the helmet its own low-friction layer between the outer shell and the liner, to absorb much of the energy created by an oblique blow to the head.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This absorbs some additional impact and the floating shell is designed to reduce rotational force on the brain, which in theory is to reduce the forces that cause a concussion. This is something that standard CPSC certified helmets with EPS foam tend to not do well where the impact doesn't deform the foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read for more info about MIPS:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mipshelmet.com/how-it-works&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mipshelmet.com/how-it-works&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T15:23:21.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-05T18:02:57.977" Score="4" ViewCount="8468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Linus Roadster and it got scratched moving cross country. I love this bike and want to touch up the paint job. Has anyone had experience painting over scratches on bikes? Should I bother? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T18:09:55.673" Title="Worth it to touch up my bike?" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16091" CreationDate="2013-06-05T18:08:43.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's normal in a lot of cities to commute wearing your work attire, but I can't recommend it if you ride actively enough to sweat. This actually doesn't relate to the weather as much as you might think, I find Winter riding to be much sweatier then Summer. It's not an option for me, since I tend to go down once in while as I ride so aggressively (not in traffic). I also don't care for fenders, so I usually end up with a skunk stripe from all the lawn irrigation run-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for you, I would humbly suggest get out of the shorts and T-shirt though and invest in some technical gear. You don't have to, and it can be expensive, but here's why I ride in it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your gear will be dry when you have to change back into it to go home, technical fibers excel at this. They will also smell much less than cotton.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some 3/4 pants (or knickers) in Cordura or something else strong are going to keep your skin where it belongs when you go down, which is bound to happen at some point depending on the aggressiveness of your riding and conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gloves are really a must, not for comfort but because they save your skin if you ditch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7131" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T18:08:43.677" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16097" CreationDate="2013-06-05T18:13:14.197" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My trick is to find nail polish that roughly matches the finish. It's easy to apply, quick to dry, and will prevent rust and oxidation for quite a while.  It's not a perfect finish match, but there are quite a lot of colors that come close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find an near-perfect match try mixing two or three colors. Just remember the basics; with few exceptions all colors are derived from shades of the primary colors (red, yellow &amp;amp; blue) and black and/or white, e.g., orange can be derived by mixing red and yellow. Then you've got glitters and iridescents (whole different ballgame). But nail lacquers can be picked up at pretty low prices and if you're not good with mixing colors find a friend who is. You should be able to get a near-perfect match! One last thing, avoid mixing brand-to-brand if possible; otherwise you may have adhesion problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T16:18:13.623" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T16:18:13.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16097" CreationDate="2013-06-05T20:15:30.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would have been better if you could post some picture of the scratches on your bike to help us understand the depth of the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, you can use either spray, nail-polish (quick and dirty), or actual wall paint (if you have any or nick it from the neighbours' :p ). however, if you have a lot to paint on, do it a little bit at a time. But if you use your bike once in a while, you can just do all the painting at one go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapest option is to get the nail polish. However, the colour would go off soon enough depending on weather conditions. Also, if you buy really cheap ones from Pound shop (or 99 cents stores if you are in the US), they won't last long. But, as I said, they are the cheapest and quickest option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=spray+paint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; on Amazon. They should work too. The decision is yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T20:15:30.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16003" CreationDate="2013-06-05T20:27:38.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before going further, ask your self this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You need to drive your UK-purchased car in the US now. OMG, US is right-hand drive but the UK is left-hand. you now need to change the position of my gear and streering wheels to the other side.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound logical to you? Does it make your life comfortable? Are you gonna buy a new car now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same logic my friend. As @DanielRHicks and hillsons said, brakes are not needed to change. &#xA;I would rather focus on using the road sides correctly as US is for right-hand drive. Unless there is any law about changing the shifter positions, don't do it. Just ride as you would ride, but try to get the road side correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T20:27:38.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-05T21:25:48.607" Score="1" ViewCount="2450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003RLHMAU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; in combination with &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000F5LLWG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;new levers&lt;/a&gt; for my bike, but under the description it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Use of these calipers with standard SLR enabled STI and brake levers results in a &quot;mushy&quot; brake response&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a simple, single-speed bike, I'm not sure how this will be an issue? All of the reviews seem great, and they're the only reasonably priced shimano brake calipers that are black to match my gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm missing the mark completely and these brakes aren't even meant for a bike like mine, if that's the case can anyone recommend some affordable brake calipers that I can upgrade to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7135" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T21:55:46.430" Title="Thinking of upgrading my brakes to these, is there an issue with &quot;mushy&quot; braking?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16107" CreationDate="2013-06-05T23:23:17.877" Score="11" ViewCount="34090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to tweak my gears, from time to time: Adjust my front and rear derailleur limits, see if the shifts are smooth, make small adjustments on the cable tension, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to get the bike in position without help of anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to spend money on a bike stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6999" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-06-06T00:54:23.113" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T10:54:39.247" Title="How to position a bike for work without a stand" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2013-06-05T23:53:39.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two large hooks attached to my basement ceiling. I attach a 1 inch cargo strap (look for them in camping supplies) from the hook to my saddle and a second around the bars and stem. This suspends the bike while allowing the wheels and crank to spin freely. By adjusting the strap length I can position the bike so the area being worked on is close to eye level. The hooks were less than $3 and the straps were $3 each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T23:53:39.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2013-06-06T00:28:21.280" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I bought a bike stand, I used the bike rack on my car.  I still use it in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="346" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T00:28:21.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16097" CreationDate="2013-06-06T00:53:32.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chips that are deep enough to show bare metal should be primered prior to paint. Chips that are not treated can cause more paint to flake off. The frame can start to rust and loose even more paint. While aluminum won't rust it can still corrode if exposed to road salt.  I have had success with Testors brand toy model paint. I get a color as close as possible and custom mix to match my bike. If the blue isn't dark enough I add some black, if it is too dark I add some white. It is mixed in small amounts say six drops of blue and two drops of black. You can then dab it over the chips with a cotton swab or small artist brush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T00:53:32.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2013-06-06T02:25:11.847" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, most light work can be done with the bike stored upside down (standing on the handlebars and seat). Of course, I'm assuming that you're talking about a road bike. Other bikes, like a mountainbike with a twist-shifters or trigger-shifting, might not be as well suited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7118" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T02:25:11.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2013-06-06T05:51:13.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cheap solution is a wall-mounted bike holding stand. The simple ones are just a couple of prongs that stick out from the wall and support the top tube of your bike. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclestore.com.au/allen-201-two-bike-storage-rack.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Something like this&lt;/a&gt; is $US40 or you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cellbikes.com.au/Cycloc-Wall-Mount-Bike-Storage-Rack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;get fancy with this&lt;/a&gt; (will work better with sloping top tubes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you could build one out of a 1.5m length of timber and some screws quite easily, although attaching it to the wall would require a little care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rope-based hanging bike storage systems also work well for this if you can put up with the bike swinging round. Those allow better access, but the bike moves. A solid wall mount won't move but you have to take the bike down and flip it round to access the other side, and you can't turn the handlebars much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T05:51:13.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16111" CreationDate="2013-06-06T08:56:18.823" Score="1" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to fit a new freehub/freewheel (Bontrager) onto my (BTwin) wheel. The freehub is on, but for the life of me I can't figure out the order of nuts for the skewer bolt. I've put everything together once and noticed on the cassette side the bolt wasn't poking out far enough to clear the cassette's cogs.  I've numbered the parts to make it a little easier;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KsQUf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The bits&quot;&gt;&#xA;The wheel with the new Freewheel/freehub unit;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j2Vo6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My Wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastEditorUserId="721" LastEditDate="2013-06-06T10:26:31.273" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T10:26:31.273" Title="Putting a wheel axle back together" Tags="&lt;skewer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2013-06-06T09:07:50.397" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normal workbenches have these big clamp tools (a vice) attached to the edge of the bench. &lt;a href=&quot;http://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/diy-workbench-tool-1955993.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LINK TO IMG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can turn your bicycle upside down and carefully clamp the top tube. I use rags to protect the frame. The bicycle is as stable as it can get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT* This method should only be used on steel frames and with great care. Also keep in mind that high quality steel frames are 'butted' (thinner in the middle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7106" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T01:03:06.153" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T01:03:06.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16109" CreationDate="2013-06-06T09:11:12.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing cassette shouldn't require you to pull the axle (4) from the hub body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get all this put back together you're going to need at least 1 15mm or 17mm (depending on hub) cone wrench and a little bit of know-how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assemble what you have there as 4-6-9-6-5 starting from the inside. The tricky part is getting the locknut (5) tight against the rest without upsetting the load on the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start by tightening the cone (4) against the bearings the the amount you want, no play, but not tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then hold the cone still with a cone wrench and the opposite cone and locknut still with another wrench.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the washers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the locknut against the whole assembly with either another cone wrench or an open ended wrench of the correct size (some locknuts are too small to manage this).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all much easier on the none drive side unless you have the tool to pull the freehub apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T09:11:12.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7283" CreationDate="2013-06-06T11:34:37.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the good answers already;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lean forward and kick your leg over the back wheel so that both feet are on one side of the bike and your standing on one pedal, then hit the ground running whilst continuing to hold the bars. Takes a little practice. Maybe it cant be done at very high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T11:34:37.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2013-06-06T12:16:17.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have double kickstand on the bike which can act as mini repair stand. I pull the bike on the kickstand, and put some weight (u-lock and chain) on the front of the bike so it tilts forward and back wheel gets lifted in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T12:16:17.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15999" CreationDate="2013-06-06T16:11:08.120" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden many sportives at this distance in the UK and here is my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Food/Drink&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prudentialridelondon.co.uk/Assets/London+Marathon+Digital+Assets/Prudential+RideLondon/London+Marathon+Digital+Assets/Downloadable/Route+Map+And+Profile.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;route map&lt;/a&gt; there are 3 food stops and 11 water stops so you don't need to carry loads with you. I'd say a 750ml bottle will do. If you find you drink a lot on your training rides then take a second bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food will be available at the stops but you should take some food with you. Find out what's going to be on offer (its usually bananas, jaffa cakes and cereal bars) and bring something different. I tend to buy a tub/box of bite-size flapjack pieces from the supermarket and stuff about a dozen or so in a jersey pocket (can have unpleasant effects if its really wet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A basic multi tool for adjustments while riding is useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spares&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Two inner tubes and a set of tyre levers. Small pump. If you get a puncture then just swap the tubes and pump with enough air to get you to the next service spot, where there will be a floor pump for you to attain proper pressure. I never bother with a puncture repair kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clothes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unless you are confident about the weather I'd take a small waterproof. It needs to be one of the small, lightweight ones so it can fit in a jersey pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other stuff&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keys (if you have a huge keyring with lots of keys, take off the ones you need)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mobile phone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a £20 note&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I generally don't take a wallet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I definitely wouldn't be carrying my passport&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;small tube of sun cream&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tools, keys and spares go in a little bag under the saddle, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-aero-wedge-buckle-large-saddle-bag/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;; other stuff in jersey pockets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finally&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use at least one or two food stops or you'll run out of energy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if its sunny, reapply sun cream when you stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have fun, I'm envious as I didn't get through the ballot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6407" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T16:11:08.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16118" CreationDate="2013-06-06T17:13:48.630" Score="15" ViewCount="5444" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last part of my commute to work has some significant bumps in the road which are really quite jarring, since I'm on a road bike that, of course, has no shocks (but has a carbon fork).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the bumps are caused by cracks in the asphalt that have separated or curb corners that don't totally flatten to the road level at the crosswalk... or tree roots that have started to push up from beneath the pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the bike take most of the concussion from hitting bumps? If I lift myself off the seat only barely and just for a moment, I don't have to feel the brunt of the force, and my bike has more freedom to take the hit instead of me. (These aren't so large that I am at much risk of totally flying off the bike if I stand up slightly for those moments. I'm still holding on, but maybe more lightly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the bike last longer if I kind of use my legs as springs, or should I stay firmly planted and take the jolt from the bump? What's the tradeoff, if any, between my health/safety and the longevity of the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastEditorUserId="6994" LastEditDate="2013-06-09T23:03:14.327" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T23:03:14.327" Title="Should the bike or the rider take the jolt from a bump, and how?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16116" CreationDate="2013-06-06T17:41:13.060" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than acrobatic movements with your bike, could you not find a cycle lane to your destination to avoid this? I had the same problem as you but got over it once I used cycle lane for part of my journey. They are usually better in this kind of circumstances. I would recommend you do that for once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that it would be mental, but could you possible post a picture of the actual road surface? We could give you an improved answer based on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need to be on the road, the best way is to balance out the concussion between yourself and the bike. YOUR SAFETY IS FIRST, you can buy another bike not your limbs or arms. A solution would be to determine if you can streer your way around the contiguous cracks and potholes. This will help you to improve your attention to the road surface too. BE CAREFUL OF THE CARS BEHIND YOU. If this is not possible, the other way (which has worked for me so far) is to find course through that specific road which would result into less number of bumps and concussions to yourself and your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you mentioned (i.e. lifting yourself off the seat for a short while to avoid experiencing the concussion) works sometimes, but may be not in favour of road bikes. MTB users often perform a basic bicycle lift where they lift the front wheels first, raise themselves from the saddle a little bit, dash back, and perform a jump around obstacles. This is however, not recommended for road bikes....... I would have thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be youtube videos where people have done this type of safe cycling around cracks and holes. I also recommend you find them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, post some pictures if possible please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastEditorUserId="6420" LastEditDate="2013-06-06T17:57:46.317" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T17:57:46.317" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16116" CreationDate="2013-06-06T17:43:40.810" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not an either-or proposition. Your bike is hitting the bumps and supporting your full weight (minus the very small proportion of weight that might be falling at that exact moment) regardless of how you stand when you hit the bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is whether you're going to let the additional damping effects of the down tube, seat tube, bottom bracket, cranks, and pedals absorb some of the shock before hitting your body, and whether you take that shock on your feet (which are protected by hard soles and socks and are connected to your springy ankles) or just take it right on the sit bones (which are hard and part of your skeleton). Obviously one of those is going to feel a lot worse than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's helpful to imagine an analogous system: a very light car carrying a heavy load. Our choice is whether the load is supported on a suspension system or not. If we rigidly attach the load to the frame of the car, the load isn't &quot;taking the hit&quot; when the car hits a bump -- rather, the shock is worsened because there's nothing to absorb some of the energy of the shock. If we suspend the load, the total weight the car is carrying remains the same (it has to), but we let the suspension system absorb some of the energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You and your bike are both better off if you get off the seat a bit and let your legs (and the frame, to some extent) act as a suspension system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7035" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T17:43:40.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16116" CreationDate="2013-06-06T17:43:56.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be light on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really an either or thing. If you're light on the bike (letting it jump under you), it takes the hit but then is able to move how it wants after that. If you've got your full weight on the bike, then it still takes the jolt, but can't move - you're holding it down. Roughly, the bike gets squeezed between you and the pavement. There's force up on a wheel or two, and force down on the seat, and possibly the bars and pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having your weight on it is something like putting an object on a table and giving it a sharp whack with a hammer; letting the bike move under you is like hanging that same object from a string and whacking it. If it can move freely, it won't take as much damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="634" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T17:43:56.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16059" CreationDate="2013-06-06T18:06:03.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I'm sure it's not the same, in MTB I use a very brief lapse of smooth pedalling while downshifting in a difficult ascent, it helps reducing noise and wear in the gearset. I accelerate a little before the shift, then, as I actuate the shifter I pedal without load relying on inertia. When I feel the new gear is fully engaged I resume normal pedalling.&#xA;This is also used when after a fast descent comes a very steep ascent, as you would normally be in a very long (hard) gear, soft pedalling is used to make sure you have the proper (selected) gear engaged when you need it. It is specially useful when the bottom of this kind of transition has technical terrain that would make it impossible to keep all the momentum, forcing you to reduce speed a lot but not to stop nor dismount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T18:06:03.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16116" CreationDate="2013-06-06T19:08:48.507" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I see a significant bump coming (on my touring bike -- no suspension), or just a stretch of fairly rough pavement, I'll generally raise my bum a few inches off the seat and flex my arms, so that my legs and arms are the &quot;springs&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This in not only more pleasant than taking the hard bumps, it also helps the bike maintain contact with the road, reducing the chance of the wheels sliding out from under you.  And, of course, it's easier on the wheels.  Plus, I suspect the physics of it all makes it better from  an energy expenditure standpoint -- less of your forward momentum is lost to the bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T19:08:48.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1952" CreationDate="2013-06-06T20:56:08.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do it. I went from a commuter-friendly Schwalbe tyre to Specialized Fat Boys. The difference on my 6mile commute is palpable and has made my ride to work a lot more fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1617" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T20:56:08.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16035" CreationDate="2013-06-06T23:28:25.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heat shrink tubing is my favorite when I can't find any metal aglets, or end caps. Twist the cable 'fibres' back into position if you can, cut the cable end cleanly with the proper tool, and slip on the tubing. A quick zap with a butane lighter and it seals right up clean. Even if the cable end is partially disarrayed, a slightly larger tube can seal up the ragged ends, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4979" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T23:28:25.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-07T01:35:00.090" Score="6" ViewCount="1554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have so far used cycling shorts for my road cycling attire, but have noticed that bib shorts are prevalent with many road cyclists including many pros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are advantages and disadvantages of using bibs vs cycling shorts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any quirks, caveats or major pluses for each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastEditorUserId="5973" LastEditDate="2017-08-04T14:28:54.830" LastActivityDate="2017-08-04T14:28:54.830" Title="Advantages and Disadvantages of Bibs vs Shorts?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-06-10T13:11:52.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16124" CreationDate="2013-06-07T03:16:02.687" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Bibs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looks more &lt;em&gt;pro&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Shorts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to put on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier when the you hear the call of nature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T03:16:02.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15930" CreationDate="2013-06-07T04:58:02.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a pinch, use &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twist-on_wire_connector&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wirenuts&lt;/a&gt;. They're available at hardware stores. The smaller ones work better as a cable end-cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6hUpX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T12:26:08.393" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T12:26:08.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-07T05:47:48.920" Score="1" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;My chain is skipping only on the smallest sprocket, and it skips with every crank turn. The chain is not stretched. Also, chainrings are almost new. Could this freewheel be the reason, it doesn't seem worn out to me (although it's old):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ryH9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A8t6I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastEditorUserId="5316" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T07:57:07.243" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T10:54:28.120" Title="What could be the reason for chain skipping" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;skipping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-07T06:39:30.033" Score="2" ViewCount="9291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I first started inspecting my wheel because I noticed when I applied my brake while not riding, I could push my rear end and the wheel would turn forward and back about 1/4&quot;-1/2&quot; each way (but the brake is still locked tight) . I took my wheel off and saw that my DT Swiss center lock was loose, so I bought a Park BB tool and tightened it up, but I still have the problem but less now. I see that the wheel is moving @ the center lock just a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then as I was messing around with the bike upside down, I noticed that my cassette is wobbling ever so slightly.. Is it possible/probable that this is related? There is also some rubbing noise that is not coming from the brake that is difficult to locate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this likely my axle? Hub? Cassette? Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7147" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T22:40:49.297" Title="What's wrong with my rear wheel? Wheel moves about 1/4&quot; front to back when brake is fully applied, cassette seems a bit wobbly, some rubbing noise" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16116" CreationDate="2013-06-07T07:13:13.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have it backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you stand up, your legs (bent at the knee) provide suspension, separating the unsprung mass (the bicycle) from the weight of your body. This is &lt;em&gt;easier&lt;/em&gt; on the bike, not harder. Though the bike complies with the bumps, it does not have to deal with your mass in doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Well, strictly speaking, standing is harder on your pedals, cranks and bottom bracket, but overall it is easier on the frame.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're seated, there is still some suspension from your butt and whatever springiness is in the seat, but it's not as effective. The jolts you're feeling are being transmitted through the wheels and frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike can't &quot;take it instead of you&quot; because if you're taking it, you're taking it &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; the bike, not directly from the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T07:13:13.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16124" CreationDate="2013-06-07T08:16:53.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what Alex says, in cold weather I will ride in bibtights. They are unpadded so I wear shorts underneath. I prefer shorts to bibs in that scenario because the bibtights themselves already come over my shoulders, and when I tried wearing bibs under them I just felt trussed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing - and I don't think I'm imagining this going by manufacturer's web sites - is that shorts appear to be more difficult to get hold of than a few years ago. My preferred clothing brand, Etxeondo, is currently offering six different pairs of bibshorts in its range but only one pair of shorts. I wonder whether they are driving the trend, or whether they have responded to sales figures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reinforce what Alex says, the &quot;don't move&quot; aspect of bibs should not be underrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T08:16:53.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16124" CreationDate="2013-06-07T09:21:55.367" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The construction is different, shorts need to have the elastication around the top to keep them in place around your waist and on your hips, this has an obvious effect on the styling. This isn't totally similar to regular shorts, given that cycling shorts need to be designed for a body that's probably bending over a little more than normal so the top of the shorts at the back will be higher (hence also that cycle shirts have a longer back to help cover the inevitable gap that appears when you bend over). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the bibs help with not needing loads of elastic that digs into your sides because they're being held up from your shoulders, but also the construction covers your lower back (including added insulation in winter/cold-weather varietals). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only are the shorts being held from above, they're being anchored in place so they won't rotate and ride around your sides - which is even more annoying than tight elastic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's similar to comparing an open-top car against its roofed equivalent - all that extra strength that comes from the roof has to be pushed into the superstructure around the new top of the vehicle. So it is with shorts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the call of nature is trickier, but I'd rather be comfortable for hours and uncomfortable for a few minutes, than put up with shorts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T09:21:55.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16133" CreationDate="2013-06-07T09:38:13.913" Score="2" ViewCount="2373" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of, these are the sort of brake mounts I'm talking about (though I believe the diameter is standard whether the mounts are removable or welded to the frame/forks):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FvvLD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the diameter on the shaft of the mount (marked in the picture with a C) where the brake arm is attached?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7150" LastEditorUserId="7150" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T10:09:36.797" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T16:02:19.677" Title="What is the standard diameter for BMX brake mounts" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16132" CreationDate="2013-06-07T16:02:19.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I measured several sets that I have and got the following results. These were used with Shimano, Tektro, Avid and one with &quot;no name&quot; brakes.  This not to say that some other brands don't have a unique size. The male threads that go into the frame were either M6 by 15mm long or M8 by 10mm long. The shaft or studs (part labeled as C) were all just under 8mm, 7.93, 7.90, 7.89 etc. The threaded female hole were all M6. The M8 by 10mm posts all came off of rear brake mounts. The use of the larger diameter and shorter length may be due to the smaller diameter of the seat stay tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T16:02:19.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16135" CreationDate="2013-06-07T18:13:56.270" Score="10" ViewCount="2579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Washington State and here the law states cyclists have the choice to ride on the sidewalks, bicycle lane, or on the road with other traffic. I usually just ride to school and back, which is only about a mile away. There are no bicycle lanes the entire way, so I usually resort to the sidewalk because I'm nervous about being so close to other cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been rethinking riding on the sidewalk as the other day I got cut off by a lady pulling out of a driveway and was forced to turn into the driveway to avoid a crash. Also, after school there's a ton of people that walk and clog up the sidewalks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, I want to get on the road but am confused about where to be. How do you ride on a road that doesn't have a bicycle lane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do know one thing - I DO NOT want to be on the far right side, by the curb, as that is almost worse. Do I just pretend I'm a car and do everything like them? How do I change lanes, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll mention a few more details that might be helpful. The route I take to get there is pretty quiet until the last half, where there are several schools on the same street so, naturally, it's one huge school zone. Cars cannot exceed 20MPH, and I easily ride at that pace (there aren't any steep hills). I have a set of head lights, brake lights, and even turn signals on my ride that are plenty visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7156" LastEditorDisplayName="user7156" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T07:11:06.137" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T07:11:06.137" Title="How do you ride on a road that doesn't have a bicycle lane?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16134" CreationDate="2013-06-07T18:53:33.097" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd ride in the road before riding on the sidewalk just for the reasons you mentioned -- cars pulling out of driveways, pedestrians, etc. Note that sidewalk laws for bikes are generally up to local towns, so while one town may allow bikes on sidewalks, the next town may not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what you mean about not wanting to be on the far right side by the cub, as riding as far to the right as safe is required under Washington State Law:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://apps.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=46.61.770&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://apps.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=46.61.770&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every person operating a bicycle upon a roadway at a rate of speed&#xA;  less than the normal flow of traffic at the particular time and place&#xA;  shall ride as near to the right side of the right through lane as is&#xA;  safe except as may be appropriate while preparing to make or while&#xA;  making turning movements, or while overtaking and passing another&#xA;  bicycle or vehicle proceeding in the same direction. A person&#xA;  operating a bicycle upon a roadway or highway other than a&#xA;  limited-access highway, which roadway or highway carries traffic in&#xA;  one direction only and has two or more marked traffic lanes, may ride&#xA;  as near to the left side of the left through lane as is safe. A person&#xA;  operating a bicycle upon a roadway may use the shoulder of the roadway&#xA;  or any specially designated bicycle lane if such exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But sometimes being &quot;safe&quot; means &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6643/is-it-generally-the-case-that-bikes-are-allowed-to-use-the-full-lane/6646#6646&quot;&gt;taking the lane&lt;/a&gt; and it doesn't mean that you need to ride in the &quot;gutter&quot; by the curb. Use your judgement to find the safest place to ride. Regularly hopping from the sidewalk to the road and back again is likely less safe than just staying on the sidewalk or the road, so pick one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case you should definitely ride like a car - use the appropriate lane for turning (i.e. don't make a left-turn from the right side of the road), follow all of the same traffic signals (stop signs, stop lights, etc), signal your intentions, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T18:53:33.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16134" CreationDate="2013-06-07T19:00:37.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a difficult question because ultimately when cycling in traffic there's no substitute for experience, and even then its really out of your hands when you get some bonehead behind the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine your age would come into play, but its good that you seem to be aware of the risks - I have a teenage daughter who will ride without lights and helmet and I am continually hassling her about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you live in Wa, is there any law there that would make you automatically liable if you were riding on the sidewalk and collided with a pedestrian? If so, that may be an incentive toward riding on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the legal, I think long-term you should get yourself comfortable in traffic and ride on the road. But the &quot;now&quot; will be about getting that comfort in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In no particular order...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any training courses you can go on? (You can at least make sure &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;behave correctly on the road)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have quiet roads nearby where you can practise? (To be honest a&#xA;20mph zone may be ideal learning territory.) But somewhere you can just get used to the road without worrying about traffic. Maybe you have that already. You say you don't want to ride on the far right, but that is pretty much the cyclist's natural territory I'm afraid. Sure, you need to make space for yourself in the road, make the driver think twice before overtaking you, but you still want to ride such that they &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; overtake you when its safe for them to do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe a town centre or something nearby (i.e. plenty of traffic but travelling&#xA;slowly)? But if you do have a town centre, be aware that cars may behave unpredictably e.g. when they spot that elusive parking space. All good experience for you, but high risk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you drive yet? Being able to see things from a motorist's perspective&#xA;is a big bonus.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T19:11:34.987" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T19:11:34.987" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-07T23:35:38.693" Score="4" ViewCount="22521" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my bike up on a stand to give it a clean.  As I was cranking the pedals to clean the chain, then let the pedals go,  I noticed that when the back wheel was freewheeling it would start the pedals turning by itself.  Why does this happen?&#xA;I also noticed that if I had the front on the little granny ring, and the back on the littlest sprocket that with the back wheel spinning, not only would it start pushing the pedals around, back there 'e also a fair amount of slack in the chain.  What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7158" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T01:02:34.867" Title="why do my pedals keep turning when i freewheel?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-07T23:36:23.457" Score="3" ViewCount="4005" Body="&lt;p&gt;While riding her bike my daughter's pedal came off. It appears to be stripped. This has happened to her with a total of three bikes. What could be causing this to happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7159" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T10:46:59.373" Title="Bike Pedal Falling Off" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16138" CreationDate="2013-06-08T00:20:08.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time I've seen pedals in a newish bike strip out of the crank was when the mechanic who assembled the bike overtightens the pedals (the mechanic was a younger me, but you live and you learn.) Often, people will forget that left pedals are left-hand threaded and will strip them out when they try to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanical motion of pedaling causes metal-metal mating surfaces to fret - microscopic motion back and forth causing noticeable wear. If this were a bike from the 70's with aluminum cranks it wouldn't be a surprising failure mechanism. However, since these are new bikes, the most likely explanation is that who ever assembled these bikes tightened the pedals too much. There is no way a child could be riding the bicycle enough to cause a pedal to strip out. To have it happen three times is incredibly unlikely, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd avoid buying department store bikes and refer to your local bike shop for any repairs or replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T00:20:08.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16137" CreationDate="2013-06-08T00:41:56.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the freewheel is spinning, and the pedals begin to spin, the only possibility is that the freewheel is pushing on the crank via the chain, and the chain is being pushed by way of the rear cassette. I would guess that your chain may be stiff in parts (possible if it's rusted in parts), and that the rear hub may have a problem (could either be a bent axle or a failing ball-bearings, or both, from my experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7118" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T00:41:56.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16137" CreationDate="2013-06-08T01:02:34.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The friction between the bearings, pawls and lubricant in a freehub or freewheel are usually enough to turn the pedals when the wheel is spinning. If you hold onto the pedal and the wheel freewheels normally, probably there isn't anything to worry about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if the wheel stops freewheeling altogether or the friction to resist the wheels turning becomes noticeable, then inspect the freehub bearings and pawls. Increased resistance at the freehub/freewheel will often result in the rear derailleur being pulled completely taut when the pedals are stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T01:02:34.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16223" CreationDate="2013-06-08T05:50:12.783" Score="11" ViewCount="3078" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since moving to a new office where my commute is a bit longer I have been obsessively recording my cycle to work hoping to see a gradual improvement. (N.B. I've stored them &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/segments/tim-s-cycle-to-work-hardwick-to-21-3275628&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on Strava&lt;/a&gt; but you need to be a member to see aught but a summary page). It looks like any increasing fitness is not the dominant factor, wind is. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/13663/3704&quot;&gt;We know that wind resistance has an enormous effect&lt;/a&gt; but is there a way to factor it in to my data? How might I measure, record, or just note wind speed through my ride and somehow factor it out when calculating performance each day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3704" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T05:55:58.027" Title="Is there a simple way to measure, record, and use wind resistance or tail winds?" Tags="&lt;wind&gt;&lt;strava&gt;&lt;performance-tracking&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-08T19:45:42.573" Score="0" ViewCount="2890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fairly new MTB and I'm currently trying to tune the gears. Currently I can change down gears pretty smoothly I.e. 6 &gt; 5 &gt; 4 etc but going up the gears is slow for the chain to switch cogs. What should I check to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7164" LastEditorUserId="7164" LastEditDate="2013-06-08T19:51:07.640" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T23:33:09.520" Title="Slow switching up higher gears" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16144" CreationDate="2013-06-08T21:11:51.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would have been slightly helpful if you told us from what front and back gear ratio (e.g. 2:3 or 2:4) the problem starts occurring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had similar problems and it was even the case when I was changing to higher front gear but the cassettes (or clogs) did not change or they changed after a long time when it received external shocks from my ride. Did you check how the shifts are happening from 1(front):1(rear) onwards i.e. if you were to use the gear ratio from 1:1 to upwards? If you do this, then you will come to the point where you feel exactly from which gear ratio it is taking longer to switch cogs. Also, you might even find out once in a while changing to a higher gear actually does not change to the new cassette at all and gets stuck. One of the cable (front/rear derailleur) tension would not feel right to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me it was some dirt and blockage in the front derailleur lever area (i.e. the allen key-based connnector with wire clenched around) which is universally near pedals. Usually, this is a minor problem and the way to fix it was to make sure first your gear ratio is 1:1. Then, loosen the allen key just enough so that the wire comes out. Now clean around the allen key are well enough and then use a little bit of wet lube around it to finalise. Then, put the wire back in and tighten the allen key as it was before. Reccheck the gear shifting from 1:1 upwards and see if the problem is solved. This could happen even to the rear derailleur too. The key problem originator is the derailleur lever (i.e. the allen key based moving area). What happens normally is that dirt and blockage occur there and the cable tension feels higher than it should normally feel. Also, please update your question by saying for how long and where (i.e. what type of tarmac) you have used your MTB until the problem started manifesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I am assuming that you know NEVER to change both gears at the same time? If you don't know and have done this already, please don't do this again. For the investigation I mentioned above, make sure you change the gears down or up appropriately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know :)....Don't forget to add the additional information to your original question :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these are of any help see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44K6hGd4HoE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbSBQL08VHA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastEditorUserId="6420" LastEditDate="2013-06-08T23:33:09.520" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T23:33:09.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-08T22:48:23.053" Score="0" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know absolutely nothing about bicycles yet I need to buy one in the next 7-9 days. I really can't afford to buy one new and my price range is in the $100-$150 area. Craiglist is my best bet for getting a decent value for my money so what should I know, check, and say when talking to the bike owners?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one I have been eyeing is the Marin Road Bike in the first image in the description on this link:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fresno.craigslist.org/bik/3856785558.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://fresno.craigslist.org/bik/3856785558.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7165" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T01:03:09.100" Title="What do I need to know before buying a bike off of Craigslist?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-06-14T01:12:52.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-09T00:04:26.367" Score="3" ViewCount="2845" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son's race bike currently has a mixture of components... A 9-speed 14-25 cassette (juniors race cassette), Tiagra shifters, 105 rear derailleur, Tiagra triple front derailleur and Tiagra triple crankset.  He would like to upgrade to an Ultegra derailleur, compact crankset,and brakes that he can get used.  Will the Ultegra derailleurs and brakes work with the Tiagra shifters?  He will be sticking with the 9-speed cassette, so I suspect the rear shouldn't be an issue.  Any insights would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7166" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T17:16:59.627" Title="Will a 9-speed Tiagra shifter work with a 9-speed cassette and a 10-speed Ultegra derailleur?" Tags="&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16149" CreationDate="2013-06-09T01:07:40.900" Score="10" ViewCount="6618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-oil.net/Clean%20Chain%20degreaser.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;degrease&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.green-oil.net/Green%20Oil%20chain%20lube.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lube&lt;/a&gt; the chain, adjust disc brakes, clean, etc. at home, but don't want to get my hands dirty. (Zinger alert.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any special re-usable gloves for this kind of bike work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking because the usual latex stuff won't likely last long, especially if ripped on something sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, will regular household gloves work? Or what about garden ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XM4JW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;P.S. I mentioned the type of lubricant and degreaser I'm using to show that it's not corrosive and carcinogenic like the usual stuff; so in my case, I am only concerned with not getting oil and black smears all over my hands.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="6678" LastEditDate="2013-06-09T21:42:40.207" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T12:41:04.453" Title="Reusable gloves for bike repairs?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;gloves&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16148" CreationDate="2013-06-09T01:40:36.183" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/nitrile-mechanics-gloves-mg-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt; recommends their own product:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/id5x9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tool Gloves&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to hate gloves for anything (car, bike, whatever) until I got used to wearing them while in Iraq and Afghanistan. Originally I used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0001VNZUA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mechanix Wear&lt;/a&gt; gloves and I still like them for working on my car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q4pcn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mechanix Glove&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4015" LastEditorUserId="6678" LastEditDate="2013-06-09T20:53:07.963" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T20:53:07.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-09T14:19:53.713" Score="4" ViewCount="4080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to get a new front wheel at the moment for what is (supposed to be) an inexpensive commuter bike. My question is what's so good about a £100 wheel vs a £25 wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/easton-ea70-xc-front-wheel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cheapest option my usual port of call&lt;/a&gt; had available was over £100. I appreciate that these guys only stock good quality stuff but I just don't have that kind of money to invest right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/FRONT-WHEEL-STANDARD-SECTION-SOLID/dp/B006KV7EQ6/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this on Amazon&lt;/a&gt; at a fraction of the cost. I have no doubt that it's a worse quality wheel but what practical difference does that actually make? Is it just the weight? Are there safety concerns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T15:15:22.583" Title="What does an expensive wheel have over a cheap wheel?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16159" CreationDate="2013-06-09T15:48:53.087" Score="5" ViewCount="19275" Body="&lt;p&gt;The threads on my bike's pedal crank just became fully stripped and the pedal fell off, though the pedal itself is fine. Is there any way I can fix this without fully replacing the pedal crank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6952" LastActivityDate="2020-03-31T17:48:09.740" Title="How to fix a stripped pedal crank" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16155" CreationDate="2013-06-09T16:44:16.710" Score="1" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spend about 45 mins everyday commuting (less than 2 miles) to work on a formal dress, shoes, carrying a backpack that consists of a laptop, charger and little more stationery (about 10-12 pounds, I guess), amd probably get groceries way back home (5 pounds of stuff or so)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During weekends, I run errands for about 3-10 miles each day. I own no car, no scooter, no other vehicle. The only mode of transport is by bus, train majorly, perhaps walk and live in a 2nd floor house (but I don't mind carrying it up a 45 degree stairs). I even like to go off road during weekends, but that seems to be asking for more, but it would be great to have a bike that will atleast allow me to reach a hiking spot (slight muddy roads etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with these things on mind, and a budget of $200 (I can double if its worth it, as this is the way its going to be for next 5 years atleast), I've been browsing and looking at different posts here. Particularly its focused on UK products but I live in US, New York; and I feel the bikes specifically are different than those available here, and the pricing. But few other links pointed out me very well, especially &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.codinghorror.com/blog/2011/06/geek-transportation-systems.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jeol's choice&lt;/a&gt; of scooter and bike. Other option is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0067HJJRU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dahon c7 folding bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of different options and the upside price really confuses as me, a first timer. I am a software engineer living in New Jersey and travelling to New York by PATH/Subway trains so anyone who is of the same commute, please share your current choice, and the take away from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a ligament tear a year ago on the right knee, recovering but still finding it tough to walk on formal shoes in particular, and more painful to run errands walking during weekends. Kindly cast your recommendations. I am looking for a few choices so I can narrow it down, but right now I am even unable to oversee what I would need exactly for my purpose, and the choice of geek transportation system is worth the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update after a year of bike usage in New York City and then Southern California&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a Dahon Vitesse from Craigslist and used for about 6 months in NYC. It was fun, very useful for errands. The thing I hated is lifting the bike up-and-down on the Subways. The folder though small is not the light-weight stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had moved to SoCal, did not have a car and badly wanted some bike to get groceries and food (public transport is pretty bad - wait 1 hour for a bus). I again went for a Dahon, this time the D7 model, and a brand new one. Still the bike is useful but for the nature of the city I think I should have gone for a light weight full hybrid bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dahon folder is great to commute for up to 10 miles for me. Great for plains, not so for elevated areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7073" LastEditorUserId="7073" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T21:58:04.537" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T21:58:04.537" Title="Help to choose the right bike multipurpose bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16152" CreationDate="2013-06-09T16:56:49.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the crank arm is wide enough it may be drilled and a thread repair insert installed or tapped to a larger size. This is best left to your local bike shop. To buy the tools that you will most likely only use once will exceed the labor fee they will charge. They can also check to make sure the repair can be done safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T16:56:49.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16153" CreationDate="2013-06-09T18:36:27.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your question above, i would only suggest the following (doesn't mean I don't know about the other bikes):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Folding bike&lt;/strong&gt; - for work and city/cycle lane/fairly normal surfaces only. You can also get away with usual city road hazards such as potholes and cracks (but not too extreme), also good weight support (e.g. laptop, clothes, etc.). You might find it a bit weird to suddenly switch to a folding from a normal road/hybrid/MTB. But overall, it is really great as my gf bought a Tern C8 last month(she is 5'4&quot;) and even I find it nice to ride (I am 6'3&quot;). You can also carry it on the train and even on the aeroplane if you want. Some folding bike tyres are quite sturdy compared to hybrids so the bumps and holes can be ignored a lot more. I would still give a trial ride if I was you in order to be sure about the comfort. THIS IS QUITE PRACTICAL if you are just living a professional life and city-side commute with occasional shopping bags (about 6 kgs) behind you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MTB (Mountain Bikes)&lt;/strong&gt; - If you want it to use on a rougher surface as well as in the cities. They are a bit heavy, but can take poundings like no other. You could even go over some road kerbs that are raised by appx. 3-4 inches. I apologise to be mean, but if you are not young enough to handle the bike weight, you might feel it difficult to go around the hills with these heavy bikes. But if you think you can, Go for this one. My suspicion based on UK prices is that you can probably get a very good MTB compared even when you double the price (if you are lucky, you might get one with suspension springs too, COOOL).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible to attach some rack or similar thing behind your MTB so that you can carry weight such as your laptop and clothes to work. I never saw anybody doing it for MTB, but that really does not mean you cannot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer is, if you are happy to sacrifice outdoor activity, folding bike is the answer. Otherwise, get an MTB, get rack, and voi la. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that no matter what bike you buy, there is a maximum weight for that. I would recommend staying about 6-7 Kgs under the prescribed weight by the manufacturer/seller. It was never an issue for me anyway as I carried shopping on my folding and hybrid, about 6-7 kgs of shopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am really sorry but cannot guide you about the US price. If any other user finds this answer suitable, but want to edit it to put the price information, be my guest. Normally, I would put the UK prices but this would be confusing as you said yourself that the prices and the types of bike vary in the US shops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps. If you were interested in the brands at all: &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Folding&lt;/strong&gt; - Dahon, Tern, Raleigh, Brompton (around $800 sometimes due to the high demand)&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;MTB&lt;/strong&gt; - Jamis, Trek, Pinnacle, Raleigh (Off-road series), Fuji, Bianchi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice is now yours, If you think I can give you more information please post follow-up comments :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastEditorUserId="6420" LastEditDate="2013-06-09T18:48:05.887" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T18:48:05.887" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-09T21:37:57.903" Score="5" ViewCount="3225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the latest Abus Bordo Granite X-Plus 6500 folding lock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOqAF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Abus Bordo lock&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is cased inside a rubberized pouch that attaches to one of the bottle-cage locations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FLJ20.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pouch on bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very convenient, but sadly, it &lt;strong&gt;rattles while riding on an uneven surface&lt;/strong&gt;, which can get quite annoying, and does not make for a smooth ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, is that normal, or is something wrong? (Has one of the bolts come looser than it should be?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, how do I prevent this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T02:20:06.760" Title="Is it normal that the Abus Bordo folding lock rattles?" Tags="&lt;noise&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2013-06-09T23:19:50.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was only getting two flats in five months I probably wouldn't bother with puncture resistant tyres. My commute is a mix of suburban streets, highway and city roads. The highway is full of debris from vehicle accidents or stuff that has fallen off trucks and trailers, and the city streets always take me past construction sites where there is rubbish or stuff dropped by tradesmen, etc. I was getting a puncture every two weeks or so, and twice I had two on the same trip. After the second double I upgraded to Schwalbe Marathon Plus. They feel heavy but these are commuting tyres, not racing slicks, so I'm OK with that. Since then I have only had one punture in about eight months, and that was a 45mm posidrive screw that was seriously bent into an arc of about 120 degrees and went into the sidewall just under the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7174" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T23:19:50.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16151" CreationDate="2013-06-09T23:30:05.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference in price could be made up of a number of factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brand name&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Materials (bearing / axle quality and rim material in particular)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complexity (double butted spokes to save weight, rim construction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand made (cheaper wheels are machine made automatically)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels vary greatly because there are so many different styles of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap wheels are mass produced from softer materials with heavy spokes and axles and relatively soft bearings. They should be straight but they usually aren't very strong so they buckle out of shape when you hit obstacles (pot holes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expensive wheels are produced by hand using tougher materials that have been specially machined for the purpose, weight is trimmed from all components, bearings are hardened and usually sealed against dirt and water. This produces strong wheels which are much better able to deal with abuse. The weight savings go a long way to making you ride faster and turn easier because every time you accelerate you have to give the wheels rotational motion and inertia. The less they (and tyres) weight, the easier that motion is to generate and the less the inertia is (inertia tends to keep the wheel straight on course when you try to turn it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6937" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T23:30:05.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16152" CreationDate="2013-06-09T23:55:00.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen people succesfully filling the the whole space of the crank thread with weld, then re-manufacturing the thread in a turning/lathing shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done this to a bent/stripped derailer hanger of a steel frame, and it worked perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you could weight price, availability and safety of each alternative, but very probable that replacing the crank is the wisest thing to do, unfortunately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might not be so in case of a very expensive (and high quality) crank, but if the crank is medium or low priced, replacing is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T23:55:00.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1952" CreationDate="2013-06-10T01:52:13.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to have the same tires on the front and rear. A high pressure slick on the rear will cut down friction, but you can keep a lower pressure one at the front for better grip and comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6596" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T01:52:13.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16151" CreationDate="2013-06-10T04:10:49.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Amazon wheel you linked is a solid axle, which means it has bolts (instead of a quick-release), so you'll need to carry a wrench that fits it. If you have a flat and are not carrying a wrench, you'll be walking or finding some other means of transport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap wheels are, to a certain extent, false economy. You'll find they may not stay true for long, because of careless assembly. Spokes can break more frequently. If you're in a position to handle such problems, then no worries. But if you're not able to fix a broken spoke, your savings can quickly evaporate. My local bike shop charges U$D 30.00 each to fix a broken spoke on a rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While some bicycle wheels can be quite expensive, you want to strike a balance between total crap wheels that achieve false economy, and too-expensive wheels (which may not be optimal for commuting use anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You linked two different sizes of wheels, so I don't know what kind you really need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently shelled out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=index&amp;amp;cPath=86_235_350&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a few hundred U$D for some new wheels&lt;/a&gt;. They were &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/oRYEv2NDdzE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;machine made&lt;/a&gt; and needed retensioning, which cost another U$D 100 at my LBS, but they are real true now and very, very strong. Had I bought the hubs, spokes, and rims separately, I would have paid even more. I anticipate many thousands of miles of life from them. If you drop decent money on a set of wheels and get 20,000 km from them, I'd say you're better off than if you drop a small amount of money on a wheelset that gets built into a decent one, one broken spoke at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T04:10:49.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2013-06-10T05:12:06.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I converted my Trek 7000 mountain bike into a roadbike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rear brake I used an accessory which my LBS called a horse shoe (horse shoe shaped aluminum which can be bolted into the v-brakes). It was intended to support the frame if you have a v-brakes, but since it has extra holes at the middle, my road brake caliper fitted nicely to accommodate a 700c rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced every component into 105 series. I even replaced the fork with a nice bladed shaped one but I had to alter my headset because the fork is oversized and my frame is standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing I have not tired yet which I am a little hesitant to do (because I have this feeling that it wont work) is replace the crank. Although this would ultimately give me the speed I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My LBS told me it could be done, I just need to put a spacer so that the chainrings would not touch the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all I am happy so far with all the modifications. My bike is now lighter and faster. And since it is a small frame, and I used to drive an MTB, me and my bike are very nimble in crowded spaces. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day I will buy a nice second hand road bike, but for now I am happy with this setup. Besides, my 15 year old Trek 7000 frame has a sentimental value and I can't part ways with it yet. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7175" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T05:12:06.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16148" CreationDate="2013-06-10T05:59:12.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0016MZIN0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Atlas-Fit&lt;/a&gt; nylon gloves are surprisingly good when you want to work in oil, rain or cold. They stretch over your fingers and are easily tough enough to put snow cables on car tires in the winter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a bicycle mechanic that prefers to use these when they are doing oily work — like flooding bearings or breaking frozen parts they are soaking in oil: the gloves are not slippery when working with grease or oil. Also, a stray wire from a shifter cable is less likely to poke through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep your hands cleaner, wear nitrile gloves below them. (Also helps with other gloves in cold weather.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6GTlY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Atlas nylon mesh black glove&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For most bike work, I often use disposable nitrile gloves, but I often chew right through the fingers and knuckles on those quickly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1944" LastEditorUserId="1944" LastEditDate="2013-06-11T12:41:04.453" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T12:41:04.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16166" CreationDate="2013-06-10T07:24:56.990" Score="21" ViewCount="2425" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine, who works as a sales manager in a good bike shop advised me to never buy a helmet that is older than couple of years, and the best thing to do is to buy the current model line, when they arrive to LBS (like fresh bread). Neither he earns from my purchases at his shop, nor he insisted to buy there, and even recommended me a few models that they don't have, so there is no marketing bias in this advise. So the question is, whether a helmet really looses its quality &lt;strong&gt;even if it's stored in a bike shop&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastEditorUserId="5688" LastEditDate="2013-06-10T21:11:52.653" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T23:40:39.607" Title="Do helmets really lose their quality with time even if kept in package?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;storage&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16164" CreationDate="2013-06-10T09:03:48.917" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot will depend on the construction of the helmet. For example the basic material in the helmet will be some sort of sponge or foam which relies on its texture to absorb sudden impacts; does this degrade over time? For example, a loaf of bread gets its texture from the tiny air bubbles formed while rising and proving, but if left to prove too long, the structure collapses, or, once baked, the bread will harden and not be as flexible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be with helmet foam; at least, that's the concern, in particular when subjected to sustained UV/sun light. It's certainly not been a concern that manufacturers have been quick to dispel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is another side to this question, not just whether you should not buy an older helmet because it has lost its ability to do its job? Have the helmet construction methods moved on since that helmet was made, simply, are newer helmets &lt;strong&gt;better&lt;/strong&gt;? Are they lighter, stronger, more absorbent, better value, more adjustable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many reputable organisations, e.g. the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helmets.org/index.htm#who&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute&lt;/a&gt;, say &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helmets.org/replace.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not to worry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most manufacturers now recommend that helmets be replaced after five years, but some of that may be just marketing. (Bell now recommends every three years, which seems to us too short. They base it partially on updating your helmet technology, but they have not been improving their helmets that much over three year periods, and we consider some of their helmets since the late 1990's to be a step backwards, so we would take that with a grain of salt.) Deterioration depends on usage, care, and abuse. But if you ride thousands of miles every year, five years may be a realistic estimate of helmet life. And helmets have actually been improving enough over time to make it a reasonable bet that you can find a better one than you did five years ago. It may fit better, look better, and in some cases may even be more protective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smf.org/helmetfaq#aWhyReplace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Snell foundation&lt;/a&gt; concurs: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hair oils, body fluids and cosmetics, as well as normal &quot;wear and tear&quot; all contribute to helmet degradation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I would hesitate to buy a helmet which can't stand up to sweat, this suggests that it is use that affects the longevity of the item, not its storage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a scientist in this area, but while there might be evolutionary reasons in the helmet's construction to merit buying newer ones, just being stored for a few years probably won't be reason enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I asked in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/1527/425&quot;&gt;an answer to a related question&lt;/a&gt;, why are you planning on wearing it? If you're looking for a cheap helmet because you don't really &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to wear it, then an old one will be fine, but if you're genuinely concerned for your safety and you really want something to do the best job, then should you be quibbling over the few dollars/pounds/{currency units} difference? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T09:03:48.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15779" CreationDate="2013-06-10T10:43:57.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience upsweep make you pull easier for drops, manuals and bunny hops, but the other side of the medal is shoulder width. The wider your shoulders, the less comfortable will be upsweeped bars (you will feel your hands bent outwards). In fact when chosing BMX bars every degree of upsweep considered as something about a quoter inch of rise (from the ease of pulling perspective).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T10:43:57.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16142" CreationDate="2013-06-10T13:00:27.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're actually better off measuring power, through a powertap, SRM or similar ergometer. This gives you a measure of your physical performance that is absolute. So your speed is a factor of your power output, chain efficiency, wind resistance, drag, tyre performance, road surface, atmospheric pressure, and gradient. It is almost impossible to measure all of these individual factors, though we have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recumbents.com/wisil/MartinDocs/Validation%20of%20a%20mathematical%20model%20for%20road%20cycling.pdf&quot;&gt;good approximations&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The power that you produce is the base of all these equations, so measuring the influencing factors is not only hard, but it will give you an inaccurate picture of your physical performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2440" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T13:00:27.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3170" CreationDate="2013-06-10T13:52:10.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel a strong need to come to the defence of decent hybrids!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a Specialized Hybrid sport bike. I live in the South of the Netherlands and I chose a hybrid because I ride a combination of roads, asphalt bike paths, gravel paths and forest trails. The trails range from soft sand to mud and everything in the middle. The only thing we lack is hills...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the original tyres with Schwalbe Smart Sam tyres which have enough grip for the trails but run quickly on smooth paths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a compromise and the narrower tyres are not ideal in dry soft sand. But it's a great bike and I comfortably ride 80 - 100 km on mixed paths with no real problems..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By definition a hybrid is a compromise, but not necessarily a bad one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7178" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T13:52:10.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16142" CreationDate="2013-06-10T14:13:54.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;iBike is a power meter that uses the same thinking as yours. Instead of measuring forces produces by your legs, it calculates power based on speed, gradient and wind resistance. So what you get is power measurements that has wind resistance factored in as you want, plus gravity and other resistance. see &lt;a href=&quot;http://ibikesports.com/how_iBike_works.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ibikesports.com/how_iBike_works.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to other power meters, it looks like a pretty good cheaper alternative, it's still not cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T14:13:54.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16177" CreationDate="2013-06-10T14:35:34.270" Score="6" ViewCount="1128" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a new niche of &quot;all mountain&quot; helmets, like Fox Flux, POC Trabec, 661 Recon etc. They feature closed, rounded backward design, and claim to protect the brainstem better. I ride all-mountain technical singletracks with a little of drops and lots of rockgardens, should I invest in a new AM helmet, or there is a minor difference between them and the common XC design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastEditorUserId="5688" LastEditDate="2013-06-10T15:05:09.140" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T03:34:21.363" Title="Is there a significant difference between the new all-mountain/trail and classic cross country helmets?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;protection&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16151" CreationDate="2013-06-10T15:15:22.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an opinion, that in bikes there are three properties that you can choose only two of them it's strength, price and weight, and if you go to extreme you will be able to choose only one. That means the cheapest wheel will be weak (low quality bearings and axles) and heavy, as much as the lightest carbon wheel will be expensive and also weak. It's up to you to decide what suits you best, but IMO these 50 bucks worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T15:15:22.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-10T16:01:38.073" Score="0" ViewCount="2677" Body="&lt;p&gt;After fixing a front wheel puncture and refitting the inner tube and tyre I noticed that the tyre was slightly twisted on the wheel rim. I put the wheel back on the bike and spun it to make sure the actual wheel was ok and it's definitely the tyre that's twisted and not the wheel. I even took it off again, removed the tyre and inner tube and put it all back again making sure everything was ok and it looked ok until I pumped the tyre up again to see it was still twisted.&#xA;Could the fact that I rode the bike after I got the puncture, a few hundred yards to reach a pedestrianised area have caused the tyre to distort somehow ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7182" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T02:04:36.520" Title="Twisted front tyre" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-10T20:50:35.810" Score="3" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had one Kryptonite D-lock for the last two years, and it's worked great. I typically don't ride with a pack, so I've used lock mounts (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/855205/kryptonite-transit-flexframe-u-lock-bracket?preferredSku=8552050001&amp;amp;cm_mmc=cse_froogle-_-pla-_-product-_-8552050001&amp;amp;mr%3areferralID=2db3e0a6-d20f-11e2-a969-001b2166c2c0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this kind&lt;/a&gt;) to keep it secured to the upright on my bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the lock mounts keep breaking from use after a few months: either the plastic shears off, the &quot;lock-in-place&quot; toggle gets stuck open, the strap breaks, or the tensioner screw's head snaps off some day when I'm trying to wrestle my lock out of the mount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kinds of lock mount exist that are durable? If none exists, how would you suggest rigging some mounting solution by hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm tired of buying new lock mounts, and don't like to lock around the frame of my bike: doing that over the long term has destroyed the paint on the bottom of my Y-brace and rattles around in my knees while I ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T19:19:23.683" Title="How to find a durable lock mount?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8812" CreationDate="2013-06-10T21:05:52.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a way to train your upper body while riding, but it's not the way most of people think of. Have you ever looked at pro BMXers arms? I rode BMX myself and can confirm that lots of bunnyhops, manuals and jumps are serious upper back, and whole arms workout. Just think of it, in a bunnyhop you pull with your lower and upper back, together with the arms, then you push using again your back and arms. But I don't know how this could go under common term of riding :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T21:05:52.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16185" CreationDate="2013-06-10T22:24:14.843" Score="2" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my tires (the front) was replaced recently, and I notice that it picks up grit (i.e. tiny, sand-sized debris) much more easily than the cheap stock tire (still on the rear) that came with the bike.  This happens both when the road is wet as well on roads that have been recently resurfaced.  (In the latter case even though the road is dry, I still seem to get bits of asphalt along with occasional black gunk which makes the sticking worse.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been told that grit sticking to the tire won't cause a flat, and if I don't scrape (which I always try to do under these conditions, although this is really annoying) I find the grit generally spins off the wheel eventually, but nevertheless it leaves me with an uneasy feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it is time to replace my rear tire, I would like to get a tire that doesn't have this problem.   However, I don't see how to tell by looking at a tire whether or not it will have this problem.  I do notice that my new tire does seem a bit shinier than the old one, but I don't know that this would be a reliable indicator.  Is there some foolproof way to avoid such a tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T09:21:35.897" Title="Avoiding road tires which collect grit" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16171" CreationDate="2013-06-10T23:08:49.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look for evidential based information regarding brain stem injuries these helmets could/would have prevented, preferably published in medical journals, that a standard helmet would not. I think you find it fairly thin on the ground.&#xA;(If anyone has such evidence, I am happy to retract this answer) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I say this is if you look at a typical/older style helmet, the rear extends a long way back. To suffer a brain stem injury that these new fandangled shapes would prevent, you would need to a hard hit from a protruding rock (or similar), that wedged under the typical helmet. I cannot easily visualize the mechanics of a bike fall that these helmets would protect you against that a normal helmet does not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A falls that do happen and none of these helmet designs protect against -  face plant - need a full face. Stick through the ear - full face again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One I have seen a photo of is a stick through the eyeball - Helmet didn't help....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give the limited protection either style of helmet offers for side and facial injury, my guess is they a not much more than a marketing gimmick. Would I buy one - yes, if the premium was not high and it fitted me at least as well as another style, but I would not upgrade an otherwise good helmet for one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am also not inclined to bow to peer pressure and buy things because they are cool......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &#xA;I might have to retract this answer, after reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/8781520/Probe-into-four-cyclists-deaths&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; report on a coroners inquest into a cycling death......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The man who found her said her helmet had been pushed to the back of her head and damaged. The chin strap was across her mouth.&#xA;  Holmes said he had bought the &quot;top of the line&quot; cycle helmet overseas for more than $200.&#xA;  Forensic pathologist Martin Sage said conventional cycling helmets provided little protection from impact to the rear of the head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-06-11T03:34:21.363" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T03:34:21.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16180" CreationDate="2013-06-09T10:34:13.597" Score="3" ViewCount="705" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to cycling (road biking). When I bend my back to hold the handlebar and maintain a low position, to avoid head winds, I feel a pain in the lower back and neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we get used to the pain, once we start practicing long distances regularly?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it is not normal, should I do something to avoid the pain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" OwnerDisplayName="Freakyuser" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-06-11T16:41:12.067" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T16:41:12.067" Title="Pain in the lower back and neck during cycling" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16178" CreationDate="2013-06-09T12:06:16.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suugest getting proper bike fit first to ensure proper setup.  Also strenghtening your core will help as will more time ridding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Froomedaddy" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T12:06:16.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16178" CreationDate="2013-06-10T17:37:49.990" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike fit should not cause you pain. Back pain, neck pain, knee pain, hand pain, elbow pain, etc are all signs of a problem; they shouldn't simply be ignored, and probably won't just go away on their own. Muscular soreness after pushing extra hard is really the only kind of pain you should get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get the bike fit to you.&lt;/strong&gt; Many bike shops offer this as a service, and may discount it significantly with a new bike purchase. This will probably entail assessing your flexibility and changing out the stem and adjusting the seat position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Increase your flexibility.&lt;/strong&gt; Hamstring stretches, etc, so that you can bend at the hips more. Personally, I do this while coasting on the bike after I've warmed up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strengthen your core.&lt;/strong&gt; Planks, etc. So you can hold that position better and longer. As long as you make an effort not to lean heavily on your hands, this should improve as you ride more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may also want a &lt;strong&gt;different helmet and/or sunglasses&lt;/strong&gt;. Anything that blocks your vision when looking &quot;up&quot; will tend to force your head to tilt back more. You don't want a visor/peak on your helmet when riding &quot;down low&quot; on a road bike, and you may find that thick rims on the top of sunglasses are also a problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description (&quot;when [...] in a low position&quot;), I'm guessing that you're putting yourself in a lower position than you're flexible enough to really do right, and compensating for that lack of flexibility by curving your lower back too much and bending your neck back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of debate about ideal bike fit, but in general you want to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bent mostly at the hips, with a bit of spine curvature (not too much).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your upper back tilted back so that your neck doesn't have to bend too far back, which is facilitated by less lower-back curvature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shoulders down/forward and elbows slightly bent. Not leaning too heavily on your hands. You should be able to take your weight off your hands for a bit without shifting your position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a road bike, you'll typically spend most of your time with your hands on top of the drops, so that's the position to make the most sure you're comfortable in. But you want to be able to be reasonably comfortable down in a lower handlebar position (&quot;in the drops&quot;) for windy situations, downhill sprints, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" OwnerDisplayName="freiheit" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T17:37:49.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16091" CreationDate="2013-06-11T02:42:32.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to ride at 60% of your maximum heart-rate. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch out your cadence and use a lower gear.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use light clothes just a shirt and a breathable windproof jacket in winter.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the summer avoid the sun, try using the parks, the wind and the trees are your friends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid the backpacks they make you sweat more, use a rear rack and panniers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7187" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T02:42:32.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16186" CreationDate="2013-06-11T02:58:06.770" Score="2" ViewCount="9501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano Deore LX crankset.  I would like to replace the outer chainring.  What manufacturer chainrings are compatible with my crankset ?  My outer chainring takes all of the abuse, due to logs and rocks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7188" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T18:10:55.073" Title="Mountain bike crankset chainring compatibility" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16182" CreationDate="2013-06-11T03:44:15.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might need a little more information - Deore LX has been around about as long as Shimano, and I am not certain if the specs changed over that time.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My belief is you will need a 104 PCD 4 bolt chain ring. If its 5 bolt - it will most likely be 110 PCD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are standard sizes. Any chain ring manufactured to fit will be suitable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T03:44:15.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13674" CreationDate="2013-06-11T08:26:49.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember I had ~ 2 inch tear on my Kenda K-Rad. I glued it from the inside with a rubber adapter from a light reflector and it did a good job for another half a year. It's totally not the end of the world and in the worst case scenario you will simply stuck with flat (your tube will escape from the tear and pop like a baloon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T08:26:49.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16176" CreationDate="2013-06-11T09:21:35.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to agree with @amcnabb, softer rubber will stick to asphalt better, but it's going to collect lots of junk. However soft tires will also live less than harder slicks, so anyway it's the balance between grip and durability. If you are not that worried about gripping the road in crazy turns, just search for harder rubber slicks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T09:21:35.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16182" CreationDate="2013-06-11T13:13:33.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any chainring that has the same bolt circle diameter (BCD) and the same number of bolts as your crank is compatible with your crank. The ever helpful Sheldon Brown has a page describing &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to measure your BCD&lt;/a&gt;.  The way you do it is dependent on how many bolts you have so I won't go into the details here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a chainring may be compatible with your crank, there are other problems you can run into...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your chain, you may or may not be able to use a chainring that was designed for a different chain, e.g., a 9-speed chainring with an 8-speed chain. Many people do this with success while many others have problems. It's probably easiest to just get one that you're sure matches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also may have problems going bigger or smaller than your current chainring. Whether or not this is the case depends on your front derailleur and the width of your chainstays. Derailleurs have a minimum and maximum number of teeth they can accommodate. Check the specs on your derailleur to find out what these are. The chainstays are a bit more guesswork. Basically, the wider your chainstays, the smaller your biggest ring has to be. If you're dead set on a bigger ring, you can get a little wiggle room through spacers or a longer bottom bracket spindle but it's usually not enough to be worth the hassle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T13:13:33.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16174" CreationDate="2013-06-11T19:19:23.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a little hipster-ish and affected, but tucked between your belt and your back/hip is actually the most secure &amp;amp; reliable U-lock carrying solution of which I am aware, and is actually much more comfortable than it sounds.  Just push the loop side down in between your belt loops, and the lock bar will prevent it falling through if you just cinch your belt up a little bit.  It's a quick and easy solution that won't wear out until your belt does.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4784" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T19:19:23.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16191" CreationDate="2013-06-11T21:44:29.693" Score="37" ViewCount="138375" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, in some cases I will see a particular bike tire listed as available in 700x25, 700x25c, 700c x 25, and 700 x 25mm.  (Just picking out a number here, it could be 23, 25, 27, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, if any, is the difference between these?  I would think that 700x25 is the same as 700 x 25mm, but I'm not so sure about the &quot;c&quot; when it lists both &quot;700x25&quot; and &quot;700x25c&quot; as sizes for the same tire on the same site, and lists different prices for each!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T17:36:13.053" Title="What does the &quot;c&quot; in bicycle tire size mean?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16190" CreationDate="2013-06-11T21:55:58.297" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't mean anything, really. It's a historical relic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point in time, &quot;700c&quot; was a standard tire/rim size, where &quot;c&quot; indicated the bead seat diameter and &quot;700&quot; was the diameter, in millimeters, when the tire was installed and inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That &quot;700c&quot; tire size has a 622 millimeter bead seat diameter. There's an ISO standard that's often listed in small print where those tires are all '25-622'. This is the same as &quot;29er&quot;, though usually tires marketed that way are substantially wider. &quot;700&quot;, &quot;622&quot; and &quot;29&quot; are really all the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All those tire sizes you list are the same.  If there were different prices for the &quot;700x25&quot; and the &quot;700x25c&quot;, it's because there was some other difference between the tires, like model, threads per inch, bead type (wire or kevlar), etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-19T01:13:17.130" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T01:13:17.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12427" CreationDate="2013-06-11T22:01:03.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend it as a lot of accidents have occurred on the  Dublin Luas system as well. The worst issue there is bike tires getting  jammed  into  the track grooves and the cyclist narrowly avoiding death while the bike is mangled by the tram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7196" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T22:01:03.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-11T22:54:59.593" Score="3" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any resources or books that discuss bicycle geometry? I am looking for resources that would allow to get a rough idea of how relaxed or aggressive a particular bicycle geometry is, by looking at the manufacturer's geometry specs. I realize that it would only impart a very rough idea and that only a prolonged test ride and preferably long term use of the bike can impart a full impression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am mainly interested in traditional road  and touring bikes, but resources that address the same question in hybrids, and other bike styles are also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastEditorUserId="6760" LastEditDate="2013-06-12T12:04:25.253" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T02:13:11.377" Title="Bicycle Geometry 101?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16128" CreationDate="2013-06-11T23:30:58.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100% certain how the DT Swiss centerlock works but it seems like its a way to attach a 6 bolt brake rotor to their hub. What may have happened is that since your center lock was lose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it allowed the rotor to work against the 6 posts on the adapter causing some wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it allowed the adapter to work against the hub, also causing some wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain, but the freehub body might be the same material as the hub shell (the adapter part). I've heard of the splines on freehub bodyies (from other manufactures) getting worn down, causing the cassette to wobble. In these cases, the freehub body was always soft aluminum. Inspection of the splines on both the freehub side and the centerlock side will tell you if they've been worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H2kb8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJzli.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T23:30:58.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16196" CreationDate="2013-06-12T01:16:48.920" Score="5" ViewCount="3025" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a guide for &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/iQs17Rra-PZXExWOZ6yt_CemfyO3uoPW_XyDtyYxCQQ/mtime:1297962113/sites/default/files/techdocs/2006_BB5and7_English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adjusting Avid BB7&lt;/a&gt; mechanical road disc brakes, it said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only use the barrel adjuster at the brake lever to adjust for cable slack. For lever throw, use the outboard adjustment knob. For brake pad wear adjustment, use both the inboard AND outboard knobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is lever throw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is cable slack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these should I use to dictate how far I have to pull the levers to come to a dead stop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the BB7, it is recommended to have the inner (wheel-facing) pad about 2 times further from the rotor than the outer pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUeh9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Avid BB7&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="6678" LastEditDate="2013-06-12T09:39:44.357" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T15:34:15.377" Title="What is lever throw and cable slack?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16195" CreationDate="2013-06-12T02:44:41.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lever throw is how much the lever moves in total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cable slack is how slack the cable is, ie. how much you have to pull before the brake pads start moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/avid-reg-mechanical-disc-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Squeeze lever to test caliper brake. Adjust lever modulation setting by moving pads inward or outward from rotor by using both pad-adjusting knobs. To maintain the 2:1 ratio, turn the fixed pad-adjusting knob twice as many clicks as the moving pad-adjusting knob. For example, if a looser modulation is desired, turn the inner pad-adjusting knob counter-clockwise 4 clicks and the outer pad adjusting knob counterclockwise only 2 clicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The throw will be controlled by the total gap between pads and disc. For a short throw, a small gap, pads screwed a long way in, for a longer throw pads further apart, pads screwed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2013-06-12T15:34:15.377" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T15:34:15.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16193" CreationDate="2013-06-12T07:59:53.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timpaterek.com/tpmanual.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tim Paterek Manual for Bicycle Framebuilders&lt;/a&gt; contains the chapter on geometry. Very old version of this manual can also be downloaded for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T07:59:53.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16127" CreationDate="2013-06-12T09:04:06.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason was the sprocket after all. Changing the freewheel resolved the issue. I had some problem finding a service which has the wrench for that old Sachs/Maillard freewheels. Replaced it with standard Shimano 6-speed, and everything works smoothly now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T09:04:06.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15979" CreationDate="2013-06-12T11:01:08.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://jtekengineering.com/barendshifter.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Jtek bar end shifter&quot;&gt;Jtek bar end shifter&lt;/a&gt; claims to work with both Nexus and Alfine 8 speed hubs, so I don't see why other shifters wouldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A comment on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/components/hubs/product/review-shimano-alfine-disc-hub-31670&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;BikeRadar review&quot;&gt;this review&lt;/a&gt; of the Alfine hub backs that up: &quot;Apparently the Shimano Nexus Inter-8 twist shifter can be used with the Alfine hub if you want to avoid endless button-pushing.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T11:01:08.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16164" CreationDate="2013-06-12T12:51:28.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buying a &quot;fresh&quot; helmet every couple years sounds a bit excessive.  This is based on the personal experience of needing to replace couple helmets due to impacts.  Both helmets were at least two years old.  One was a direct hard head hit event during a race. The other was being hit by a car. This was back in the 80's.  I'm assuming helmets are better today.  The helmets did their job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple factors effecting helmet life.  How many hours per year do you ride? Where? UV intensity, temps, environmental contaminants in the air? What degrading risk factors does your helmet get exposed to when not in use?  Bottom line: Replace after any suspected impact &amp;amp; if you feel use and/or abuse has reduced the level of protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding costs for helmets.  More is not necessary better.  Replacement helmet just purchased ended up costing ~45usd.  Bell Muni.  ~10oz, well ventilated, adequate air flow channels, removable visor, the ?tag fit systems is nice, just not a high style helmet used by any ProTour riders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7202" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T12:51:28.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16203" CreationDate="2013-06-12T14:27:27.693" Score="7" ViewCount="837" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering adding a disc fork to my surly cross check and using some avid bb7 road brakes for the front. I've got tektro road levers on drop bars (outfitted with retroshift shifters)  I've got all the gear, so cost is negligible.  The frame is not built for disc brakes, so I would leave my cantilever brakes on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the modulation and grab will be different for the brakes.  Should I be concerned about having different types of brakes on this bike?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="5688" LastEditDate="2013-06-12T15:18:42.010" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T16:14:44.297" Title="Concerns with different brake types for the front and the rear wheel" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16202" CreationDate="2013-06-12T15:08:46.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick answer: Don't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front and rear are already &quot;functionally different&quot; on two-wheeled vehicles, to the point that we have different tread patterns and even wheel sizes (at least in motorcycles this is common-practice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, having brakes with different &quot;feels&quot; is not a problem by itself, unless this bothers you, or makes you over/underestimate breaking power due to a possibly stark difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T13:54:46.987" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T13:54:46.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16202" CreationDate="2013-06-12T15:08:50.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My older MTB that I ride to work on, has hydraulic disk Deore in front and Tektro V-Brakes for the rear, and it's totally OK. Anyway, your brain will have no issues to adapt to such negliable changes, like the power you need to apply with each hand. After a few rides you'll be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T15:08:50.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15955" CreationDate="2013-06-12T16:13:06.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will work OK. I've used an 8 speed mountain bike derailleur with a 10 speed group on my cross bike. It won't be the crispest, but it will work. Just adjust the limiter screws until it shifts appropriately.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4664" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T16:13:06.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16156" CreationDate="2013-06-12T16:13:32.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine just arrived and I mounted it to my frame just like the picture above (though, my lock looks slightly different... still the x-plus.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It rattles just like every other attachment on my bicycle (including the chain when it's not taut). I think it's quite normal... it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have movable parts, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet the rattling can be dampened by using a small felt pad wrapped around it or between the links, but I haven't tried this. Personally, the rattling doesn't bother me because I'm so focused on the ride and just being out on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you carry a bag, putting it in there would probably stifle much of the rattle. Using a messenger bag would lower the load's center of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a bolt coming loose, if you can't fit anything of much strength (more than tweezers?) between the bolt and the link, it's probably not too loose. I can't see these links just falling apart in my own lock anyway... so unless you notice a significant separation, I bet the lock is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, did you mount it using the velcro straps or by screwing it into the frame using the mounting points? If you use the screws, it's possible that the lock is bumping against them causing the rattle, but then again, shaking the lock in my hand without other metal also produces a slight rattle. If you try using the velcro to mount instead, perhaps the rattle will be reduced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastEditorUserId="6994" LastEditDate="2013-06-12T16:48:48.287" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T16:48:48.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16102" CreationDate="2013-06-12T16:21:49.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's counterintuitive but brakes with a mushy feel are actually going to have more power. This is due to the difference in cable pull ratio. It also means you'll have to run the pad a little closer to the rim, which can be an issue if your wheels are out of true.&#xA;Overall, I think this would be a great setup. The new 105s are great brakes, and you'll have plenty of stopping power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4664" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T16:21:49.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16210" CreationDate="2013-06-12T17:00:00.177" Score="4" ViewCount="895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a spoke nipple break on my rear wheel, the threaded part broke off right where it enters the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nipples appear to be aluminum alloy, which I believe are &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/12604/5459&quot;&gt;not as durable&lt;/a&gt; as brass nipples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have to replace the failed nipple anyway, is it likely that others were overly stressed after the first one failed and should I replace more than one (or all of them)? Is there any issue with having some brass nipples and some aluminum? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a rear wheel with 32 spoke, 3 cross lacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T18:49:29.897" Title="Spoke nipple broke, should I replace more than one?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;nipples&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16209" CreationDate="2013-06-12T18:49:29.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just replace the single nipple that is broken with a new brass nipple. It sounds like these wheels are not very expensive so I wouldn't want to invest a whole lot more time and money in replacing something that may or may not be a problem in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3805" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T18:49:29.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16021" CreationDate="2013-06-12T18:58:51.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you don't mention specific group sets (ie 6700, 6600, etc.) I'll say the primary differences are going to be weight and feel and to a lesser extent performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultegra 6700 levers are carbon fiber with a 'better' shape that some say offers better brake feel. Also the pivot point is different on 6700 vs 5700 (105) as it has trickled down from the Dura Ace design which theoretically gives more leverage and also requires less finger pull at the beginning of the stroke to move the brake pads when compared to 105 that don't have this feature yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the brakes themselves I believe the only noticeable difference is weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3805" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T18:58:51.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16021" CreationDate="2013-06-12T22:44:47.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly cosmetic and weight. You can check shimano website (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/tech_support/tech_docs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/tech_support/tech_docs.html&lt;/a&gt;) and look for &quot;exploded parts&quot; documents the parts your interested in. You will find that different level of components (105 vs ultegra) share a lot of smaller components and where it differs sometimes it's cosmetic (e.g. cap on top of the shifter) or weight (e.g. carbon material).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some parts do have performance differences, hubs for example, can have more balls in the bearings then lower level hubs. It's a good idea to check those tech documents to see what you're paying for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T22:44:47.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16217" CreationDate="2013-06-12T23:44:41.590" Score="9" ViewCount="31546" Body="&lt;p&gt;What real benefit does having a larger rotor give to braking performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally is my assumption correct that you callipers don't actually change in size, just the rotor and the adapter need to be be changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for the bonus point while I'm here, what benefit does moving to a 4 pot system give over a standard (2 piston) calliper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T20:28:45.323" Title="What is the benefit of a larger disc rotor?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16213" CreationDate="2013-06-13T00:44:43.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The larger rotor provides a larger braking surface. A 180mm rotor has more inches of rotor per revolution. The greater mass of the bigger rotor aids in dispersing heat . A single piston caliper pushes one pad against the rotor and deflects the rotor onto the other pad. The advantage of a two piston caliper over a single piston is that each pad is squeezed against each side of the rotor. This increases the clamping force and improves brake performance. The four piston caliper also pushes both pads against the rotor. The extra piston on each side allows for a larger brake pads. Along with a larger pad the dual piston applies the clamping force over a larger area for a more balanced pressure  on the pad. The percentage of the pad actually being pushed by the piston is greater.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T00:44:43.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16216" CreationDate="2013-06-13T00:56:08.153" Score="12" ViewCount="4957" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, a driver buzzed by me, leaving just a couple of inches between my handlebars and his car. It was very scary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, how can I prevent cars from passing me too closely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please cite sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T17:12:58.247" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T00:31:53.520" Title="How can I prevent cars from passing me too closely?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16215" CreationDate="2013-06-13T00:56:08.153" Score="14" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use proper positioning. This is most important. Unless the outermost lane is &lt;a href=&quot;http://commuteorlando.com/wordpress/on-the-road/the-confident-cyclist/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as wide as two SUVs&lt;/a&gt;, ride in its center. When it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mighkwilson.com/2009/08/give-and-take-control-and-release/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;safe, reasonable and necessary&lt;/a&gt; to let drivers pass, kindly move over; but always leave at least 18 inches (0.5 m) between you and the curb. The driver behind you may have to wait a minute or two, but they'll survive. If they've waited a few minutes, be nice and pull over. (Adapted mainly from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicular_cycling#Lane_control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; citing &lt;em&gt;Cyclecraft&lt;/em&gt;.) Paradoxically, correct positioning will stop most drivers from buzzing you. Correct positioning &lt;a href=&quot;http://spacing.ca/ottawa/2010/02/09/machismo-the-vital-accessory-for-vehicular-cycling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;can be scary, but does get easier&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's more to vehicular cycling. You must read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mighkwilson.com/2009/08/give-and-take-control-and-release/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more about lane release&lt;/a&gt;. Also read &quot;Street Smarts&quot; online: either the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikexprt.com/streetsmarts/usa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American edition&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikexprt.com/streetsmarts/lhd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;left-hand-drive edition&lt;/a&gt;. If you want, you can also read &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://enwp.org/Cyclecraft&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cyclecraft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, or take a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicular_cycling#Courses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;class&lt;/a&gt;, or watch some videos. (Can anyone recommend some videos?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On rare occasions, drivers may still buzz you. To prevent this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a safety flag. A spring-mounted one: e.g. a Flash Flag. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/646342-Safe-passing-laws-are-they-effective#post10831305&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source.&lt;/a&gt;) It must be spring-mounted, so that it can bend easily if hit. (If you can't afford a flag: Maybe you could use a dollar-store pool noodle plus a washable marker pen. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16230/if-i-attached-a-pointy-pool-noodle-to-my-bike-would-it-make-me-safer-even-fro&quot;&gt;See here.&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Or use a doll. Put a baby-sized doll in a trailer or rear-mounted carrier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;About attempted murder: If a driver ever intentionally endangers your life, note down the license plate number, location, time, and date. If you value your safety, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycling.com/blogs/roadrights/2009/07/30/how-should-you-respond-to-road-rage/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;don't&lt;/a&gt; touch the driver's car. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9445/will-reporting-intentionally-agressive-drivers-to-police-have-any-effect&quot;&gt;Contact a cop&lt;/a&gt;: preferably immediately; but better later than never.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;This post is marked as community wiki. Please add to it.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T00:31:53.520" CommentCount="17" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-06-13T00:56:08.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16213" CreationDate="2013-06-13T01:06:25.647" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put a bigger rotor provided better braking, and a four pot caliper provides better braking - better meaning more, and more control (Everything else being equal). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the same force between the disc and pads, a bigger rotor generates more torque on the wheel - i.e. more stopping force. It is running though the pads faster, generating more friction for the same pressure, more stopping power, and as it has bigger surface area, is dissipating more of the generated heat, meaning the disc and pads run colder. So, for the same caliper and brake pad, a bigger rotor generates more braking for the same pressure or the same amount of braking for less pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage of a bigger rotor is weight and as its larger, more prone to warping and distortion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies to all disc brakes from bicycles to aircraft...... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a bicycle, there comes a time where you have &quot;enough&quot;, and quickly get to &quot;too much&quot; - with high quality equipment its a surprisingly small disk for most people. Big disks a more prone to warping and damage, which is a good reason not install them unless you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat buildup is not normally a problem but low end pads can suffer fad. Small rotors don't typically over heat on bikes (Tandems and loaded tourers might manage it). The main advantage is more breaking for less pressure - so you get more control and feel, and your braking hand tires less (If you have ever done a 1000ft vertical descent in technical tracks on crap brakes you know the feeling) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 4 pot caliper provides advantages of more and more even pressure, meaning better braking. Also as there are usually larger pads - more heat dissipation can be achieved.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: A 29'er would usually need a bigger disc than a 26&quot; wheel for the same stopping power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget the pad and disk material - these can make a bigger difference than size, but its not as visible. Do not go to big discs and 4 pots unless you are already at the higher end of the quality spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I recently saw some discussion regard discs on road bikes, and some basic physics indicate over heating is a major problem with hydraulic disc brakes and descending large heights (100's of meters vertical) causing the fluid to boil. Extra cooling from a larger rotor would help, but is likely to be just a small part of the answer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-08-19T20:28:45.323" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T20:28:45.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16215" CreationDate="2013-06-13T03:31:04.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=79&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wobble strategically&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helmets.org/walkerstudy.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ride without a helmet and dress so as to appear as a woman from behind&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources: Linked above, as you can see. &lt;a href=&quot;http://drianwalker.com/overtaking/overtakingprobrief.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The summary from the British study, from the source&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T03:31:04.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16215" CreationDate="2013-06-13T06:34:49.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to stop this completely. There will be always car drivers how try to pass you, no matter what. However, there are things you can do about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most car drivers usually let enough space between you and the car, if possible. So they will likely pass you closer when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The road is narrow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is oncoming traffic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you have a few strategies to encounter this situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding more in the middle of the your lane so the car behind you can't pass you unless there is more space or no oncoming traffic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding very right (when right-side traffic, otherwise left) so cars can pass you without problems&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop and let the car pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I prefer option 1 in the cities, because cars will have enough time to see you and slow down. You still have enough space to ride to the side in risky situations to increase the space between you and the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 is more risky in cities because it kind of invites cars to pass you close. I usually to this on broad highways, because there most cars newer slow down to wait to pass you (at least in my experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do option 3 on narrow roads with oncoming traffic. These are usually side roads with few traffic anyway. I don't like to stop, but in the end I will get hurt if a car hits me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T07:41:09.763" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T07:41:09.763" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-13T07:54:06.233" Score="7" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here on bicycles SE I often read questions about right sizing of a bike, how you should sit on a bike, what to do when some part of your body hurts etc. I also came across the answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go to a local bike shop and have a bike-fit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;quite often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder how this &quot;bike-fit&quot; is done? How can I do it myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T01:44:31.547" Title="How to do a bike fit?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-13T07:55:19.557" Score="0" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a city bike with a 3 gear hub on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From some time now, from time to time I hear (I think) the chain clicking/cracking (noise) specially when going up a ramp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I though it was just missing oil, but after greasing the chain it still does the same noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips to solve that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra info: When I hear the noise it seems like the chain jumps in the cog?!?! I am not sure though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6150" LastEditorUserId="6150" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T09:52:41.327" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T10:22:28.753" Title="Chain doing noises... what to do?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16221" CreationDate="2013-06-13T10:22:28.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your gears need adjusting. How to do so would depend on the type of the gears you have exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're getting the clicking and jumping gears, then your gears are out of index.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T10:22:28.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16142" CreationDate="2013-06-13T10:37:09.023" Score="11" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Arguably, just the time it takes you to get from point A to point B is a perfectly good measurement of improvement (same with average speed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say, wind influences this, as does countless other factors - traffic lights, weather (wind, wet roads, snow and ice, etc..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, unless you are &lt;em&gt;remarkably&lt;/em&gt; lucky or remarkably unlucky, these variables will largely average out over time.. E.g a head wind on the way will become a tail wind on the return journey (or a windy day followed by a calm day, or the prevailing winds changing throughout the year)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth remembering that elapsed time wont &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; be skewed by negative factors, but also positive things like your bike-handling skills, confidence cornering, confidence at drafting other vehicles etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main point is: You should not judge fitness improvement based on specific rides (&quot;todays ride took 2 minutes longer than yesterday&quot;) but instead look at trends over time. For example, here is a plot of average speeds for all rides during my first year of &quot;proper&quot; cycling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xOIo0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Average speed over time&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day-to-day it was impossible to see any improvement in speed, it was hugely influenced by factors like the terrain - but, over time there is a clear trend.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speed and time alone aren't a good indication of fitness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power output as measured by a device like a Quarq, PowerTap or SRM power meter is far more representative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from being prone to external influences, increases in speed become exponentially harder. Going from 10km/h avg to 20km/h is far easier than going from 20km/h avg to 30km/h (and then 30 to 40 is even harder)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of this is because air resistance approximately increases with the cube of your speed (&lt;code&gt;(ground speed)*(air speed)^2&lt;/code&gt;) - in other words, air resistance increases exponentially compared to your speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would speculate that the other part is, increasing your power-output becomes exponentially harder the closer your are to your &quot;genetic limit&quot; (e.g increasing your 1-hour sustained power from 100w to 200w is much easier than from 200w to 300w, increasing from 300w to 400w requires &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; more training)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does all that rambling nonsense about watts and exponents mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at my average-speed plot, there's a large increase in average over the first few months (the easy 10km/h-&gt;20km/h increase), then the speed appears to plateau, despite the fact I was increasing in fitness over that time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where power meters become especially useful: It more directly measures a useful metric of fitness, essentially how hard you can pedals for a given duration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a power meter near the beginning of Dec 2012, where the avg-speed line is quite flat. I knew I increased in fitness since then, however the average speed line doesn't really reflect this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best-efforts power curve far better reflects my improvement than avg-speed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSw8s.png&quot; alt=&quot;Best efforts power curve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, despite no large increase in avg speed, my best effort 1-hour power increased from 197w to 254w, which is a substantial change (dividing by 60kg and using the easy-to-misinterpret &lt;a href=&quot;http://sound-coaching.co.uk/page/27&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;watts per kg chart&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, it's an increase from &quot;moderate&quot; to &quot;very good&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power meters produce great measurements, but, they are expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to measure wind speed on a bike, but not for the reasons you describe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ibikesports.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iBike&lt;/a&gt; sell several versions of a bike computer which measures wind speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's sold for two reasons, the first is to estimate power output without a power meter (the iBike Newton is quite expensive, but cheaper than a direct-force power meter like Quarq, PowerTap etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second reason is if you have a power meter, it can use the power output, ground speed and wind speed to estimate your aerodynamic drag (since your speed on flat terrain is primarily based on power output divided by aerodynamic drag)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T03:01:15.680" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T03:01:15.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16215" CreationDate="2013-06-13T10:38:08.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cars overtaking too closely is often down to the width of the road (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.surreycc.gov.uk/roads-and-transport/roads-and-transport-policies-plans-and-consultations/roads-and-transport-policies-and-plans/traffic-policy-and-good-practice/traffic-calming-policies-and-good-practice/road-widths-at-horizontal-deflection-traffic-calming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ref&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For a cyclist to be safely overtaken, the width required depends upon the width of the overtaking vehicle but in general a lane width of 4m is needed. For widths of between 3 and 4m the cyclist will be 'squeezed'. Road widths less than 3m ensure the overtaking vehicle must wait behind the cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a more detailed discussion of road width and overtaking on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.humantransport.org/bicycledriving/library/passing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;humantransport.org&lt;/a&gt;. The diagram below shows distances in feet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViYrQ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can choose a route with wide roads then you're unlikely to be overtaken in a dangerous manner. Roads with (at least) 2 lanes each way usually work well if the lanes are narrow enough that cars have to change lane to overtake you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On narrower roads you can discourage dangerous overtaking by positioning yourself correctly (see this question on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15514/what-does-claiming-the-lane-mean&quot;&gt;Claiming The Lane&lt;/a&gt;). If you position yourself at least 0.5m from the edge of the road you will have a little bit of room to manoeuvre if you are overtaken dangerously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T10:38:08.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16220" CreationDate="2013-06-13T14:17:30.773" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an actual fit, you can't really do it yourself without extended riding and testing, usually with a powermeter or other method to measure performance, and someone willing to take video and still shots of you on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What a fitter should be doing is measuring your body morphology (shape and structure), and then using that to get you into a correct sized frame (whether it's road, mountain, time trial, etc), and then adjusting the fit using different length stems, handlebar widths, seat posts/seats, etc. to get the bike comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several different methods, including Fit Institute Slow Twitch (FIST, usually used for time trial/triathlon frames), GURU, Retul, eyeball and a few others. Many of these use fit bike mechanisms where the &quot;frame&quot; that you are sitting on can be lengthened, shortened, raised/lowered, etc. Some (Such as the Retul) also have cameras that can pick out and measure all the different lengths and angles and provide a printout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fit, however, is only as good as the person doing it. There are good and bad fitters, and if you really want a good fit, I would do some research on the local fitters and their experience/certifications and word of mouth reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;good&quot; fitting will probably cost between $150 - $500 US dollars, depending on the type of fit, follow up sessions, and number of bikes being fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the reason for the variance is that frame manufacturers (Especially in time trial/triathlon frames) do not really follow a &quot;standard&quot; measuring convention, and a 54cm top tube bike from Trek may fit very differently than a 54cm top tube bike from Specialized. Also, someone that is 5'10&quot; with a 34&quot; inseam will fit a bike very differently from someone that is 5'10&quot; with a 30&quot; inseam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the guy does is have you stand over the top tube and say &quot;Yeah, that'll fit ya&quot;, I would definitely seek a different shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T14:17:30.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16142" CreationDate="2013-06-13T17:28:26.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you live, wind can be highly unpredictable and fickle.  I use Google weather (google for &quot;wind speed&quot; and then click on &quot;wind&quot;; n.b. this apparently won't work in some mobile browsers) to get a rough idea of what the winds are going to be like for the day.  However, I have found that even this can be horribly inaccurate if you ride any place hilly.  In my experience the wind direction can shift 90 degrees between valleys and the ridges, and can even turn 180 degrees along the course of the ride, meaning I start with a nice tail wind, and then half way through the ride I run into a head wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are commuting, I wouldn't count on a head wind in one direction to imply a tail wind in the other.  This will depend a lot on where you are, but in my experience it is often not true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I ride I tend to look for flags along the way to determine the direction and rough speed of the wind.  This allows me to gauge roughly what the wind is like, and if you want to you can make a note of these along the way and write them down in a log when you get a chance.  The downside I have found with this is that often I will start depending on a flag in a particular place and then suddenly it will get taken down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An anemometer mounted on the bike has been mentioned, but one issue with this is that it doesn't consider your riding profile.  If you are riding in an aero position and then switch to standing to climb a hill, even with the same wind speed and direction you will encounter different wind forces.  I don't think subtracting off your speed would be a big deal, but you would need some kind of sensor to try to determine where you were sitting, standing, hunched over, etc. and this could be tricky and error prone or at the least tedious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are using Strava, one thing you can do to try to factor out the wind in determining your fitness and performance level is to take advantage of Strava segments.   Break your ride down into smaller pieces, using your knowledge of having ridden the route before to decide what the optimal segments are.  This may already be done for you in places.  If you are concerned about having lots of segments you can make them private so it only compares your performance to yourself.   Then, the idea is to concentrate your efforts on the segment(s) that have the most favorable wind for the day.  You won't be able to compare your entire route every day, but depending on conditions you might not want to push yourself hard every single day anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T17:28:26.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16215" CreationDate="2013-06-13T18:11:30.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I ride, I usually wear a little rearview mirror attachment on my glasses that allow me to see traffic behind me.  If I see a vehicle approaching and I don't get the sense that they see me, I'll actually crane my head around so it's very obvious that I've spotted them.  Most drivers will notice you if you do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(obviously not to take away from the very thorough and technical answer by @unforgettableld - just a trick a friend taught me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7069" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T18:11:30.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16173" CreationDate="2013-06-13T19:53:12.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like either the bead of the tire or the ridge of the wheel that holds the bead was damaged and lets an area of the tire bulge or bubble out in one area.  It took a bit of looking, but does it look anything like the pics 3/4 of the way down &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/general-cycling-discussion/keep-getting-bubble-my-tire-191779.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6426" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T19:53:12.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16243" CreationDate="2013-06-13T21:01:25.320" Score="-2" ViewCount="2913" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few sources suggest that mounting a foam pool noodle on the back of your bike can help stop drivers from passing too closely. Such noodles are available at my dollar store, unlike spring-loaded bike safety flags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lM0I9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lM0I9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;See [photo.](http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10201052555424987)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I fear that both the flags and the noodles &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/646342-Safe-passing-laws-are-they-effective/page2#post10841221&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;may be illegal&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway. I am considering carving such a noodle so that its tip tapers to a &quot;sharp&quot;-looking point. (Pool noodles are hollow. I guess I would carve the noodle asymmetrically.) I would mount it like in the photo, except that I would have it stick out less: only a couple feet (30-50 cm) towards overtaking traffic. I'm not sure how I would mount it on the bicycle. Maybe I'd use a bungee cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Still, imagine that a sadistic driver used his car to push the carved point towards the edge of the road. I'm no physicist, and am not sure what might happen to my moving bicycle. What are the possible outcomes? (Note that if the noodle was illegal, and if my entire bike was damaged, I might not even be able to get compensation.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Optional:) Also, in general, do you think it'd be safe for me to mount such a noodle on my bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Optional:) Do you have any alternative suggestions which are still frugal, but are more safe?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16215/how-can-i-prevent-cars-from-passing-me-too-closely&quot;&gt;&quot;How can I prevent cars from passing me too closely?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T13:19:01.350" Title="If I attached a &quot;pointy&quot; pool noodle to my bike, would it make me safer even from sadistic drivers?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;physics&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16315" CreationDate="2013-06-13T23:24:47.640" Score="10" ViewCount="1391" Body="&lt;p&gt;On certain back-country gravel roads, a combination of erosion and tire-tread seems to create these 4-inch ripples that can repeat for long stretches of the road. Riding over them at any speed at all creates a horrible vibration that is, to say the least, extremely uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, not only is it extremely uncomfortable for me as a rider to be jostled around in that manner, it also can't be good for the safety of my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a proper way to go over these annoying ripples without damaging either me or my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6952" LastEditorUserId="6952" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T23:30:52.617" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T05:35:22.943" Title="How to properly ride over ripples on gravel roads (washboards)?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16232" CreationDate="2013-06-13T23:28:36.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find it helps if I stand on the pedals and stop pedaling for a bit. I can use my body to absorb the shock and keep the bike light on the ground. Sometimes riding on the sketchy gravel shoulder is even an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6486" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T23:28:36.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16240" CreationDate="2013-06-13T23:35:01.947" Score="2" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using look kéo cleats. My right one is much more worn down than the left one. Almost to the point where I don't think it will have any edge showing on the front lip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do walk in them a bit, but usually in grass or on smooth tile. In both conditions I would think it's the heel hitting the floor more, so the front wearing quicker is a surprise to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some causes of early wearing on cleats and how can I prevent them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6486" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T16:00:51.217" Title="How can I maximize the lifetime of my cleats" Tags="&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16247" CreationDate="2013-06-13T23:36:55.797" Score="1" ViewCount="1803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find my right cleat is wearing a lot quicker than my left one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually I start with the left cleat in the pedal and then click the right one in while pushing off. Is the action of inserting the cleat that damaging? or is it the standing on the right foot while waiting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6486" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T11:43:50.070" Title="What causes uneven wear on cleats?" Tags="&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16242" CreationDate="2013-06-13T23:39:10.807" Score="0" ViewCount="1498" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one foot's cleat wears quicker than the other due to riding style, is it a good idea to switch them after a certain time to extend the lifetime of the pair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6486" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T08:45:50.307" Title="Can I rotate cleats between left and right shoes?" Tags="&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-06-15T03:28:27.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16173" CreationDate="2013-06-14T00:02:50.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely is that there is a weakness in your inner tube. Take the inner tube off the wheel and inflate it gently. If there's an area that bugles (especially if it's in the same location where your wheel bulges), that's probably the issue. If so, replace the inner tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this can happen as a result of a flat tire, or the repair of a flat. It could also be due to normal manufacturing variances that can take time to reveal themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also possible is that the tire tread is damaged. Check for signs of wear or weakness in your tire's side walls, both inside and out. Also make sure that the tire bead (which 'grips' the wheel rim to hold the tire in place) is not damaged or worn. If it is, replace it, especially if it still bulges with a new inner tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7099" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T00:02:50.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16230" CreationDate="2013-06-14T00:27:15.353" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The three-foot extension noodle is absolutely obnoxious and a genuine safety hazard (for starters, how is another cyclist supposed to safely pass her?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original point of these noodles, as I've seen them, is to cut one &lt;em&gt;as wide as the widest part of your bike&lt;/em&gt; so cars could better gauge how much distance they needed to pass you. Perspective distortion and the small width of handlebars can make it less obvious to a driver how wide your handlebars actually are, and the neon color is to accentuate the visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cut the noodle to the width of the widest part of your bike, you don't have to worry about someone using it to push you. You also shouldn't bother &quot;sharpening&quot; it, because the point is to indicate &quot;Here's how wide I actually am&quot;. If anything, you'd want to square off the ends so it looked more like a |----| shape to accentuate the dimensionality of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut to the proper size, it's also very unlikely to be considered illegal as it's not materially changing the effective dimensions of your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7035" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T00:27:15.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16234" CreationDate="2013-06-14T01:09:46.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get special covers for your cleats that make it easier to walk and extend their useful life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000UDBLQO&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UDBLQO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T01:09:46.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16232" CreationDate="2013-06-14T01:12:31.097" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Larger tires and lower pressure will help a bit, staying out of the sake is good for your bum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, your going to have to grin and bear it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T01:12:31.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16236" CreationDate="2013-06-14T01:18:28.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see from your other question that they're Look Keos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As they're plastic, they're going to wear quicker than a metal cleat, and yes, you could swap them around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think a better strategy might well be to replace them one at a time as they wear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic stuff doesn't really like being repeatedly removed and reattached in most situations and you need to keep them in the correct positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T08:45:50.307" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T08:45:50.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16230" CreationDate="2013-06-14T05:00:07.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question really seems to boil down to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is using such a noodle illegal?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are possible outcomes if a driver still passes me too close?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answers to this;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We don't know. This is something that most likely will be dependent on the laws of your country. So I would suggest you to find out something about &quot;allowed transport techniques on a bicycle&quot; where you live.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possible outcomes are from nothing happens to an accident with the car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can understand that you are scared that a car has passed you so closely and that you want to do everything so this never happens again. This will not be possible. Some car drivers will always try to pass you. I have seen car drivers who drove up  onto the sidewalk or onto an elevated tramway just to pass me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about the question of an angry driver: &lt;em&gt;&quot;How can I pass a bicycle which is very broad/in the middle of the road/...?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2013-06-22T02:22:02.567" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T02:22:02.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2013-06-14T05:20:57.623" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Issues of where to find a bike have been answered pretty thoroughly here, including the standard disclaimers of making sure a bike isn't stolen before purchasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On advice for how to see how ride-worthy a bike is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely take a look at the bike before buying. Give it a quick once-over for general wear or use. If the bike looks like it hasn't been maintained well, it will probably show. This doesn't mean it isn't a good bike, but you want the best you can get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't see any obvious signs of mis-use, check each system more thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that this is not an exhaustive list, and that you will find problems with any bike if you look closely enough. It doesn't automatically mean you should look for a different bike either. What's important is whether the problems you find are evidence of deeper issues, or if they will cause problems in the future. Many issues can be fixed at home with a little effort, but it's still better to be aware of anything before you buy a bike. These small fixes can also add up if you're looking for something cheap. I'll try to point out bigger problems that you want to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History:&lt;/strong&gt; Simply ask if there have been any problems with the bike. Has it been in an accident? was it rebuild? does it pull the left? How long has the seller owned it, how much have they used it, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General:&lt;/strong&gt; Does anything squeak or make unusual sounds? Can you stand comfortably over the frame with your feet flat on the ground? Does the bike still have reflectors in the front and back, the wheels, and pedals? Has the bike been registered previously, and can the owner produce the paperwork to transfer the registration? Do the parts have a well-greased and smooth feel to them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheels:&lt;/strong&gt; Look for wear on the tire tread. Is there any damage to the side walls of either tire? What kind of conditions are the inner tubes in? As how many flat repairs each wheel has had, and if either tire leaks air significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the wheels attach firmly to the frame, and that the wheels remain secure when you torque them relative to the axle. (You don't want any 'play' in the wheels, as this may be a sign of one of those deeper problems with a loose cassette or worn ball bearings.) How are the spokes? Do they have relatively even tension on them and look like they're in good shape? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spin the wheel on the bike, and look down the thread for any wobbling or mis-alignment. If they do, the wheels could probably use a re-alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes:&lt;/strong&gt; Check the brake pads for wear. Will then need to be replaced soon? Are they aligned for proper contact with the braking surface? Do they engage quickly when the brakes are applied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cables:&lt;/strong&gt; Check for any frayed ends or rusted sections. Are the cable guides still in place and preventing unnecessary wear across surfaces? Do the cables have end-caps on them to prevent future fraying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pedals:&lt;/strong&gt; Do the pedals appear to have struck the ground before or they otherwise in good shape. Torque the pedal arms against the axle to see if there is any looseness. Spin the pedals by hand to ensure they rotate smoothly, but aren't too loose or tight. Also spin the pedal crankshaft to look for the same types of things. As with the wheels, being overly tight or loose at the axle may be signs of bigger problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gears and Chain&lt;/strong&gt;: Visually inspect the gears for any wear (each tooth should be symmetrically shaped, not wave-shaped). Is each gear parallel to each other on the cassette? How does the chain look? Has it been well maintained and lubricated. This is probably the only part where you would need any equipment to check your bike, but a chain-wear tool would be useful to check for a stretched chain. If you don't have such a tool handy, the aforementioned wave-shaped gear teeth are evidence of a stretched chain in need of replacement. Wave-shaped gear teeth mean the gears should be replaced also (not usually a good sign). Does the gear switching mechanism allow you to reach the highest and lowest gear, and does it move well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handlebars:&lt;/strong&gt; How are the handlebars positioned relative to the seat. Are they within comfortable reach? Can you reach the brakes quickly. Are the handlebars in line with the wheel? Is the tape worn and cracked, or does it look like you will still get some mileage out of it. Do the handlebars turn smoothly in the frame with the wheel, or is there any tightness or looseness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seat and Post:&lt;/strong&gt; How does the seat feel? can it be adjusted to a comfortable height and does it stay in place well. Quick-release adjustments can be a huge plus here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame:&lt;/strong&gt; How does the frame look. Is it still in line with itself or has it been torqued or bent. Are there any signs of cracks or dents? Problems with the frame tend to increase in severity with use and affect biking efficiency as the frame degrades. Some light damage might be okay here, but be aware that a damaged frame can quickly become unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ride the bike:&lt;/strong&gt; Ride the bike for a short distance, switch through the full range of gears. Pedal hard, brake hard with both brakes (but don't let yourself fly over the handlebars), and turn a few times. How does the bike feel? This includes how the bike actually performs, and how well it feels for you specifically. Is the bike comfortable for you. If not, can it be adjusted so that it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take someone with you when looking a the bike. You never know who you might come across through Craigslist, and two sets of eyes may notice more than just one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7099" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T05:20:57.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16235" CreationDate="2013-06-14T09:08:27.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it is neither!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it not be the moment you hit the ground with your foot which, even when doing it gently, is more of an actual &lt;em&gt;hit&lt;/em&gt; than just standing peacefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think that clipping in does some wear and it also removes the micro-bits of cleat the standing and hitting has filed down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of cleats do you use? and more important, what kind of shoes?&#xA;MTB, SPD shoes have the sole surround the cleat it is quite protected when walking and standing (it does hit the ground, but evenly so with the rest of the sole)? or more road shoes with the cleat protruding so that when you stand/walk, the cleat takes 100% of the hit at every step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T09:08:27.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16156" CreationDate="2013-06-14T10:24:23.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's normal for the lock itself to rattle if you shake it, especially when it's folded up. That said, I have an earlier model of the lock, and mine doesn't rattle audibly when it's in the rubber carrying case: the case is tight enough to stop it rattling. It's possible that Abus have made the case a little looser in newer versions, to make it easier to insert and remove the lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it definitely the lock rattling, rather than the case itself? The case has a metal plate that the bottle-cage bolts sit against, and if one of them is slightly loose, the weight of the lock would cause the case to rattle. Try tightening the screws. Alternatively, it could be that when inside the case, the lock is in contact with a bike component (such as the mounting for the front derailleur) and that's causing the rattle. If you have a second mounting point, it might be worth trying that to avoid wear to the fouled component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T10:24:23.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16235" CreationDate="2013-06-14T10:45:07.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course the more the cleat interacts with other surfaces, the more it wears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with SPD-SL cleats is the &quot;primary unclipping foot&quot; wears down a bit quicker, although I usually replace both at the same time (partly for convenience, plus I find the yellow &quot;walking grips&quot; wearing out more evenly, so are worth replacing as a pair)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, the &lt;em&gt;pedal&lt;/em&gt; on the primary-unclipping side will likely wear quicker - for example, after around 15,000km:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ig9Id.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Worn pair of SPD-SL pedals&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SPD-SL pedals show wear nice and clearly; you can see I primarily unclip my left foot. The left pedal had significant vertical movement, and was overdue for replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the action of inserting the cleat that damaging? or is it the standing on the right foot while waiting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These will cause different kinds of wear, typically.. What is causing the wear should be pretty obviously if you look closely at how the cleat attaches to the pedal, or what contacts the ground when you stand (easily done if you take of the shoe, and clip in with your hands!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, with the SPD-SL cleat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqnCO.png&quot; alt=&quot;SPD-SL&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yellow bits (1.) will wear from standing, whereas the area that rubs (2.) will wear from unclipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different types of cleats will be different, e.g the SPD &quot;mountain biking&quot; shoes have a recessed cleat, so standing will not wear the cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastEditorUserId="4353" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T11:43:50.070" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T11:43:50.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16235" CreationDate="2013-06-14T14:23:53.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's going to be highly variable. If it is always the same foot that you use to unclip, then it may be as simple as being dragged/scraped on the ground at stops. Also, as has been pointed out, the more you use a specific cleat the more that it will wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that could be contributing is leg length and improper fit. If your leg does not track straight up and down, or if you have a large amount of float in your cleat, the motion/rubbing could be causing premature cleat wear. This might be able to be corrected with shims under one or other of your cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it could be that there is something wrong/worn in the pedal itself on that side, causing excessive wear to the cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of variables, probably not a real definitive answer unless there is something glaringly wrong with one of the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T14:23:53.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16252" CreationDate="2013-06-14T16:07:18.037" Score="0" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have SRAM Apex Shifters, FD, RD, and Brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use a SRAM Force BB30 Crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;Paul&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7119" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T03:22:44.130" Title="Crankset for SRAM Apex Groupset" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-14T22:50:16.890" Score="0" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm worried about my derailleur snapping. The chain isn't running around the bottom pulley, it's running next to it, scraping against the bottom pulley and the frame.  When I change gears it makes a horrific noise and the bike has ground to a halt without me touching my brakes. This has happened 3 times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am doing the London to Brighton charity bike ride in 29 hours. I don't have time to get it into a shop and I have a 54 mile ride to do and I am worried about my derailleur snapping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7214" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-06-15T12:57:51.093" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T12:57:51.093" Title="I'm worried about my derailleur snapping. The chain isn't running around the bottom pulley, it's running next to it" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16250" CreationDate="2013-06-14T22:55:46.943" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend riding your bike at all until you have a professional look at it. Otherwise you're taking the risk of physically injuring yourself and the people around you, especially on a big ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2013-06-15T04:28:55.527" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T04:28:55.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16249" CreationDate="2013-06-15T03:22:44.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I use a SRAM Force BB30 Crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you will not be able to use the BB30 on your bicycle. You will need to search for a Sram Force GXP Crankset. You will also need to verify if your particular Bianchi is Italian threaded or not as not all Bianchi are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6213" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T03:22:44.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="40672" CreationDate="2013-06-15T19:34:30.337" Score="7" ViewCount="3262" Body="&lt;p&gt;Average speed is computed so that average speed = total distance / total time. This means that if you go up a hill, which takes a long time, your average speed drops. This isn't regained on the downhill, since going down takes so much less time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you compute the average over distance instead (i.e., your speed every tenth of a mile), the uphill and downhill are equally weighted, since they have the same number of samples. This means that your average is closer to what your speed would be on flat ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your speed over flat ground seems more important to me. It doesn't depend on how hilly your route is, and that way you could compare cyclists more easily. Why don't we compute the average speed over distance instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarification edit: I know that average speeds are computed with time because we care about the average speed -- it'd take me that same amount of time to travel a certain distance if I traveled my time-average speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't care about time anywhere here (minus speed) -- the definition of average speed doesn't bother me, I'm just wondering why this isn't a more widespread metric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7218" LastEditorUserId="7218" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T04:26:14.617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T08:23:38.773" Title="Why aren't average speeds computed over distance?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-07-03T04:45:34.010" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16253" CreationDate="2013-06-15T20:52:15.403" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your average speed is always going to be a measure of distance over a period of time. What I think you're trying to get at is accounting for your grade losses (i.e. riding up a hill), but it would be equally pertinent to include losses for wind resistance and friction as well. This would allow you to determine &lt;strong&gt;the amount of work per distance (or per time)&lt;/strong&gt; for the trip, but calculating all of the variables which would verify your actual work is impractical for the average cyclist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Gy9P.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Resistance&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Products like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powertap.com/pages/science-of-power&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Power Tap hubs&lt;/a&gt; allow you to generate torque and cadence data from your rides. That information would give you better insight into your speed with regards to sustained torque and cadence and it will also better illustrate where total resistance is increased or decreased (e.g. going up or down a hill.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as taking average speed over a set distance, you're still averaging. It doesn't matter if your sample is 0.1 miles or 10 kilometers, it is still a measure of distance per time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://pantherfile.uwm.edu/horowitz/www/PropulsionResistance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is some more information on calculating propulsion resistance. I don't remember how to do much calculus, but it is there for anyone better equipped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T20:52:15.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16253" CreationDate="2013-06-15T21:25:10.913" Score="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an interesting point of view. Let's unpack this a bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume I have a ride that is 10 miles of flat, 10 miles of ascent, and 10 miles of descent.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the flat I maintain a constant 20 miles/hour.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the ascent I fall back to a constant 10 miles/hour.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the descent I maintain a constant 30 miles/hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My average speed for this would be:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(10 miles + 10 miles + 10 miles) / (0.5 hour + 1.0 hour + .33 hour) = 16.39 miles/hour&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the proposed calculation I would have:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(100 tenths/mile * 20 miles/hour + 100 tenths/mile * 10 miles/hour + 100 tenths/mile * 30 miles/hour) / 300 tenths/mile = 20 miles/hour&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had an average of 20 mph I should be able to complete the course in 1.5 hours.  The trouble is that the course would actually take 1.83 hours to complete at the actual average of 16.39 mph.  I know it hardly seems fair, since by all rights you did the vast majority of miles at 20+ mph.  The caveat is that you spent by far the greatest amount of time at 10 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3235" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T21:25:10.913" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10701" CreationDate="2013-06-16T00:01:16.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the wheels I built by ear were within the tolerance when I finally got a Park Tension Meter.  However, I can build much more consistent nowadays with the meter.  Somehow the range of tension from one spoke to another is so much better that I would never like to build without it ever again.  I think the wheels will last much longer with consistency from one spoke to the next.  So don't leave any loose ends, just buy the meter.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7222" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T00:01:16.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12756" CreationDate="2013-06-16T00:27:28.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say you got a terrible wheel build, but you might also have some slight gradual bulging around the nipple holes which would cause the wheel to loosen up. It is still a terrible build because the builder of your wheel should have noticed that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would probably be best for you to buy a new wheel unless you need to keep the hub for some reason or the wheel is an odd size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing, are you really hammering the wheel?  Are you riding off curbs with a skinny road wheel?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a much better builder.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7222" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-06-16T01:52:42.237" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T01:52:42.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2013-06-16T00:47:13.077" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a 2 cross is stronger than a 0 cross but it doesn't always look as cool especially on a low spoke count wheel.  0 Cross is for the front only.  Sometimes maybe you only have shorter spokes around.  Radial will not be as forgiving of a bad build.  Here is my latest compromise on the rear wheel as I am trying to evolve the Holy Grail of wheels.  16 spokes 2 cross on the drive side.  8 spokes 0 cross on the non drive side(nds).  All 24 spokes have the same tension on the meter.  If there is any future truing to be done, only the 8 nds spokes will be adjusted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7222" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T00:47:13.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8801" CreationDate="2013-06-16T00:53:24.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to be a lot more careful about windup in butted spokes.  You have to detension each spoke more carefully when building by turning a bit extra and turning back.  Otherwise they might re adjust themselves.  I think 14g can carry a heavier load than DB.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7222" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T00:53:24.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16173" CreationDate="2013-06-16T02:04:36.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be that the tire has become damaged, but if you rode on a flat tire I'd be more likely to suspect that the rim has been bent slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the tire from the rim and carefully check the rim -- sight tangentially to the rim edge and look for any spot where the rim flange moves in or out as the wheel rotates.  If you find such a spot, bike shops generally have tools to remove small bends in the wheel flange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, with the tire off, rotate the tire in your hands while observing the beads.  If a metal bead is bent you may see the bead waver in or out.  A bent bead can possibly be corrected, though there is risk of the bead breaking.  A &quot;bruised&quot; tire, where the cord in the tire has weakened, should be discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When mounting the tire, you generally should inflate once, deflate, then inflate partially again.  With the tire about half inflated, inspect it on both sides to assure that the tire bead is uniformly seated behind the rim.  If a spot is &quot;off&quot; you can generally work it one direction or the other with your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poor tire seating can occur if the tube has an oversized patch (or multiple patches in one place) such that the tube does not inflate uniformly.  If you have such a tube, discard it, except in emergency situations.  When repairing a tube use the smallest patch that can be reasonably be made to work, and beware of patches near each other or a patch too near the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T02:04:36.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16271" CreationDate="2013-06-16T08:51:22.300" Score="2" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Campagnolo master link (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200891575113?ssPageName=STRK%3aMEWNX%3aIT&amp;amp;_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) for use with my Campy 10 speed chain. When it's not on a chain, it joins up and clicks into place and all is well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I try to fit it around the chain link the pin doesn't seem to go through far enough to allow the groove in the pin to 'engage' with the opposite groove. Based on the packet it seems there are different pin lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know what pin length I should aim to get to fit my chain? Are there different 'standard' lengths for Campy chains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T21:57:58.947" Title="Campagnolo master link won't fit" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;master-link&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16265" CreationDate="2013-06-16T11:30:07.363" Score="12" ViewCount="1913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in to cycling quite a lot in high school,  but was unable to and/or really lazy in college. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been getting back into cycling lately, doing a 65 miler two weekends ago, a 25 last weekend, and a 45 yesterday, in addition to biking to work (about 3.5 miles up a large hill in the morning, the same distance almost without pedaling on the way back) 6/10 days of those weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Woke up this morning and I'm really really sore everywhere. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to just &quot;cool it&quot; for a couple of days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T23:07:11.760" Title="Ouch, I'm really sore. Should I take a break for a while? How long?" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16264" CreationDate="2013-06-16T11:55:12.813" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, if the soreness is such that you feel painful stabs when you move/stretch the muscles you definitely should rest for awhile (at least several days, maybe up to 6 weeks), and perhaps should see a doc.  This can be a sign of tendinitis, muscle pulls, or a muscle disorder, and continuing to exercise in such conditions can lead to permanent damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General soreness/stiffness, on the other hand, is believed to be caused by microscopic muscle injuries that, as they heal, tend to strengthen the muscles.  For such discomfort you need to take is easy for a day or two, until the soreness/stiffness abates.  However, moderate exercise (well below your max effort) to keep yourself limber is often advised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T11:55:12.813" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16273" CreationDate="2013-06-16T15:20:06.813" Score="3" ViewCount="36053" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently picked up biking again since my childhood years, so I'm quite the newbie. I've figured out most of the features I'd need so far but I'm at a loss at this one.&#xA;Why would you pick front suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I'll be commuting 5 miles each way every day, 1/2 through paved road and 1/2 through gravel trails with a ~200m stretch of moderately bumpy off-road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-06-16T19:15:57.000" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T18:21:07.517" Title="When is using a suspension fork worth it?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16266" CreationDate="2013-06-16T15:28:13.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It mostly depends on your riding style. If you ride neat asphalt all the time there is no reason for it, on the other hand it helps to maintain control off the road, so the front wheel  will stay in contact with the ground and helps to save your joints from the vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO in your specific case, it's better to save your wrists and get a short 80mm suspension fork with locking, so you could lock it on asphalt and open on gravel/off-road. Just remember to unlock it off-road, else you'll ruin it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastEditorUserId="5688" LastEditDate="2013-06-16T15:34:18.577" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T15:34:18.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9720" CreationDate="2013-06-16T17:38:09.497" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just restored my bike and have a few tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is rust on the frame, don't worry -- just look around in shops such as B&amp;amp;Q for wet and dry sandpaper which you can use to get rid of the rust.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is chrome, don't use the sandpaper because it will get rid of the chrome. Just use metal polish and this will get rid of the rust but not all of it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the other things don't worry about you would be able to get them cheap enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7227" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2017-07-17T20:17:34.280" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T20:17:34.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-16T18:41:34.150" Score="4" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;what is the difference between a front tyre and a back tire and would it matter if they was both front tyres or both back tyres on a BMX bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7230" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-06-16T20:30:43.600" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T15:34:20.317" Title="Are front and rear tires on BMX bikes interchangeable?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16263" CreationDate="2013-06-16T21:57:58.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo have 2 types of 10 speed chain, 6.2mm and 5.88mm (Ultra Narrow). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the older C10 chain you will need a 6.2mm master link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the chain to confirm the width but this is likely the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T21:57:58.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16264" CreationDate="2013-06-16T22:20:59.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time off the bike is only as important as how you take care of your body off the bike as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Eat healthy food (see 'The Feed Zone' by Thomas Liju and Allen Lim, and remember that athletes aren't special, and you need to eat&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   regular healthy food, but just more of it with increase in volume in &#xA;   training),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   -Avoid standing on your feet for long times if you can;    if you get the opportunity, elevate your legs.  -Stay hydrated--mind    you that&#xA;   hydration is not just chugging a gallon of water a day: pay&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   attention to electrolyte levels, and the color of your urine is only &#xA;   ONE indicator and not definitive,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   -Do what you can to elevate your    HR for 30 min. each day as well--for me, walking to work briskly    accomplishes that. That's&#xA;   just something that personally helps for me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above all, do what you can to prevent DOMS (delayed onset muscle soreness) in the future by easing your way into volume and intensity if your body reacts to it poorly, and eat right all the while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get back on the bike, do the following in addition to the above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Getting a recovery snack within 30 min. after riding that's primarily carbs, and a decent amount of protein (endurox claims the&#xA;   magical formula is 4:1 carbs:protein, but anything roughly close will&#xA;   do)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   -Eat 'complete' proteins. I can't tell you everything that's a complete protein (has the correct combination of ALL amino acids your&#xA;   body needs to build muscle), so just google for some suggests: I&#xA;   usually go with red beans and rice, or eggs. The latter is supposedly&#xA;   good at preventing DOMS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also assuming that whether through a professional fitting or not, you fit on your bike: regional pain is a sign that your bike is not fit for you/. Acute pain should send you to get a fit right away. Generalized pain (my legs/exhaustion/etc) is to be expected. Something about 'pain and gain' or something something...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7234" LastEditorUserId="7234" LastEditDate="2013-06-16T23:07:11.760" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T23:07:11.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16266" CreationDate="2013-06-16T22:44:56.983" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proviso - my advise presumes you are not looking at forking out $2K or more for a bike, and probably significantly less. At a high price point I might suggest suspension. I also presume the gravel section is well maintained with average (pea - grape) size gravel (Where I ride, we sometime use logging roads, the &quot;gravel&quot; is stones about 2&quot;-3&quot; across.), and straight rather than technical single track&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages of suspension - Softens the ride on the arms making the ride more comfortable, holds front wheel on the ground providing better handling, especially  while cornering. Allows you to ride a straighter line than you might otherwise be able to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages: Heavy and very expensive for good shocks, need maintenance and cheap ones don't really work well. Absorb energy while riding slowing you down - can be mitigated with a lockout, but even ones with lockouts move a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only have 200m of rough ground to cover, so a suspension fork is probably overkill. If I was buying a bike for that commute, for the same $$$ you will get a significantly better bike with no shocks, any loss of time over 200m of rough ground would be made up on the rest of the 5 miles because of the better quality bike. Cheap shocks won't really help with the comfort, so unless you can get to at least a mid range in price, don't bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider padded hand grips and gloves - cheap and easy to &quot;tweak&quot; if needed. Also big tires will help with the rough ground and gravel - I would look at 1.75&quot;-2&quot; slicks, and probably a 29er MTB of cyclocross style wheels (depending on your height).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a quality steel frame if you cannot afford carbon - they absorb vibrations much better than aluminum. The problem is many shops do not stock, and know nothing about steel and will tell you &quot;stories&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T22:44:56.983" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16270" CreationDate="2013-06-16T22:45:57.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the sidewall of the tire if it is marked front or rear the tire is designed with a specific position in mind. It may also include rotational direction arrows. Without any marking I assume it is a multidirectional and multiposition tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T22:45:57.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-17T12:02:59.433" Score="3" ViewCount="1759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to find a way to easily remove the saddle on my folding bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solutions from Zefal (Lock &amp;amp; Roll) or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pitlock&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinheadcomponents.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PinheadComponents&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vis-antivandale.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AntiVandale&lt;/a&gt; aren't usable because they're meant for regular bikes, where adjusting the saddle is uncommon once set, while folders require adjustment every time the bike is folded/unfolded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if some company made a quick-release &lt;a href=&quot;http://technology.open.ac.uk/materials/mem/images/images_cc/ccf14_2r.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;saddle bolt&lt;/a&gt;, so that I could easily take the saddle with me and leave the seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That doesn't prevent some ass*e to take the seatpost just &quot;for fun&quot;, but it reduces the risk and it's a lighter alternative (seat posts on folders are bigger and heavier than on standard bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2922" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T00:09:43.580" Title="Quick release saddle bolts?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;security&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16270" CreationDate="2013-06-17T15:34:20.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of BMXers I know put wide tire in front and narrower one for the rear (2.35 vs 2.10, sometimes rear have slicker protector). However some use the same for front and rear, I remember Cory Martinez has same. I myself have Animal Tom White 2.0 in rear and Animal GLH 2.35 in front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T15:34:20.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16234" CreationDate="2013-06-17T16:00:51.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not the answer that you're looking for, but I find that Speedplay cleats covered with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keeponkovers.com/Product.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Keep-on Kovers&lt;/a&gt; wear very reasonably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Covers which need to be removed are a hassle. I forget to take them off when I need to and forget to put them on when I need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't use Keo cleats, so I am not certain, but I believe the design is such that the wear points are impossible to protect when you're on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T16:00:51.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7907" CreationDate="2013-06-17T16:13:42.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lubing really doesn't work, neither does forcing the inner lever.  I found too late that this removes all resistance from the outer (downshift) lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only solution I've found so far is to do an odd 'cross your fingers' shift with index finger holding the outer while middle finger makes the shift.  Not ideal, but better than spinning like a loon every time you summit and until you luck out on that upshift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7237" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T16:13:42.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16266" CreationDate="2013-06-17T18:13:38.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They ride the paris roubaix on road bikes, and that is a lot of cobblestone.  You can get away with 2 miles of gravel without suspension.  Don't go overkill on this. You can ride gravel on fat tires and no suspension. You don't even need a mountain bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a touring, cyclocross, or hybrid bike with cantilever, disc, or mini-v brakes and put some 35mm or larger tires and you'll probably feel like you are floating over it (unless you have seriously bad wrists).  Run your tires at the lower end of the recommended pressure and they will provide a lot of cushion. Use puncture resistant tires or install tire liners to prevent flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it gets muddy on the gravel, you may want to get some tires that are a bit knobby as opposed to slick.  I also recommend a steel frame (or carbon if you want to spend a bit more) to take up some of the bumpiness on the ride since aluminum is much stiffer and will not feel so good on rough terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension works great if you are riding a mountain bike on singletrack trails. It's pretty much overkill for anything less. You probably won't really be digging hard in to corners on your commute.  If you get suspension, You're probably going to need a relatively heavy bike compared to a road bike (unless you spend big bucks on all carbon) and you'll likely be slowed down by the bounce introduced by the fork (even with it locked out) and your bike will likely have much lower gear ratios since they are meant to be used off road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really sold on suspension and plan on riding on the road (and a few gravel trails) primarily, you probably want a hybrid with a short travel front fork.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T18:21:07.517" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T18:21:07.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16652" CreationDate="2013-06-17T21:09:16.080" Score="15" ViewCount="1695" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's 2013, and bike sharing has finally made it to New York City. Of course, &lt;a href=&quot;http://citibikenyc.com/meet-the-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the branded cruisers&lt;/a&gt; aren't the most speedy bikes on the road. They weigh a whopping 45 pounds, and their third gear - their lowest gear - isn't nearly low enough, making pedaling down even a slight slope practically useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, you can get moving if you pedal furiously... and if you pick out the right bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During a test conducted by &lt;a href=&quot;http://nymag.com/daily/intelligencer/2013/05/road-test-a-citi-bike-can-top-27-mph.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New York Magazine&lt;/a&gt;, bike messenger Danny Koniowski hit a top speed of &lt;strong&gt;27.5 mph&lt;/strong&gt; on a Citi Bike. He did so only after picking out a choice bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After inspecting and rejecting the first two Citi Bikes he came across at a Citi Bike station on Canal Street near Sixth Avenue — one for having misaligned tires and the other for being, in Danny’s professional opinion, “a piece of shit” — our test-rider finally settled on a suitable specimen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I squeeze the tires before I choose a bike, but what more should I do? How can I quickly inspect my next Citi Bike to make sure I've picked a well-tuned cruising machine? Or at the very least, a bike that's not &quot;a piece of shit&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1835" LastEditorUserId="1835" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T05:23:15.267" LastActivityDate="2020-11-06T13:46:10.930" Title="How to choose the right Citi Bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;&lt;cruiser&gt;&lt;citi-bike&gt;&lt;bike-share&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16286" CreationDate="2013-06-17T21:15:02.793" Score="8" ViewCount="11346" Body="&lt;p&gt;When out riding at the weekend, for the very first time, I managed to break a spoke on my wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I've not done it before, and I want to get back out on the bike soon, this time around I am minded just to hand the job over to my LBS. However, I do like to do my own maintenance where I can, so was thinking about what tools I would need to be able to do the job myself in future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking I would need a spoke wrench, a truing stand and a spoke tension meter. But would I need anything else? Or are any of these items unnecessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a follow on question, this was a spoke on the drive side of a rear wheel that was bought just 9 months ago as part of a new (and expensive) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ffwdwheels.com/products/wheels/road-carbon-alloy-clincher/f6r-c-dt240/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wheelset&lt;/a&gt;, and has done something like 1500km so far. The roads I was riding on were far from perfect, but I don't particularly remember hitting any potholes. Was I just unlucky or should I be concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've now replaced the spoke myself with no hassle whatsoever. Thanks to all three respondents, every answer was good - a spoke wrench was the only tool required. I estimated the correct tension by plucking the spokes and made sure the wheel was approximately true just using the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing to note was that, having decided to replace the spoke like-for-like, the particular spoke was very difficult to get hold of singly. In the end I ordered from an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelbuilder.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;online shop&lt;/a&gt; in the US (I'm in the UK). I did approach my LBS but the best they could do was to order a box of 72 spokes for me which pushed the cost right up. I had a chat with the mechanic there who said that this was quite a common problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T11:09:17.930" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T11:09:17.930" Title="What tools are required to replace a spoke?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16282" CreationDate="2013-06-17T21:26:42.850" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically you would want to do an &lt;strong&gt;ABC Quick Check&lt;/strong&gt; - the information below came originally from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;ved=0CDoQFjAB&amp;amp;url=http://www.bikeleague.org/programs/education/pdfs/confident_cycling_recreational_riding_abc_quick_and_bike_fit_script.pdf&amp;amp;ei=yH2_Ucz8IYfxigLy9ID4CQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNG76K_SZekXSP6s1qish8AHqR-jIA&amp;amp;sig2=q4sH1ONgNFY--Ky4akOsFA&amp;amp;bvm=bv.47883778,d.cGE&quot;&gt;League of American Bicyclists&lt;/a&gt; site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A = air&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate tires to rated pressure as listed on the sidewall of the tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a pressure gauge to insure proper pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for damage to tire tread and sidewall; replace if damaged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B = brakes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect pads for wear; replace is there is less than ¼&quot; of pad left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check pad adjustment; make sure they do not rub tire or dive into spokes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check brake level travel; at least 1&quot; between bar and lever when applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C = cranks, chain and cassette&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that your crank bolts are tight; lube the threads only, nothing else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your chain for wear; 12 links should measure no more than 12 1/8 inches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your chain skips on your cassette, you might need a new one or just an adjustment.&#xA;Note - most of these bikes use Nexus type internal hubs, so just a visual check of the chain and a quick test ride should let you know what the condition is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick = quick releases&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hubs need to be tight in the frame; your quick release should engage at 90°.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your hub quick release should point back to insure that nothing catches on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect brake quick releases to insure that they have been re-engaged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check = check it over&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a quick ride to check if derailleurs and brakes are working properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect the bike for loose or broken parts; tighten, replace or fix them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay extra attention to your bike during the first few miles of the ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: The comments seem to indicate that some people think this list if overkill. However, take a step back and remember... You are picking out a bike that doesn't belong to you, that you don't maintain and that really you know nothing about. True, you probably aren't going to measure the chain, or have a pressure gauge in your pocket, but I would spend &lt;em&gt;MORE&lt;/em&gt; time inspecting a citibike before I ride off than I would a bike of my own. I am certainly going to look fairly close to see if anything is loose, broken, or way out of adjustment, and the mnemonic ABC Quick Check is an easy way to remember what to look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-06-19T12:44:58.950" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T12:44:58.950" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16283" CreationDate="2013-06-17T21:34:57.250" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A spoke wrench is required, the stand and tension meter are optional but can make your job easier. You can use the frame of your bike and the brakes if you have rim brakes as your truing stand. If you have disc brakes you can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelsets101.com/quick-and-simple-wheel-truing/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wire/zip ties wrapped around your frame tubes and poking toward the rim then trimmed to measure true&lt;/a&gt; (assuming the wheel is aligned in the frame.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are replacing a spoke on a rear wheel you will likely need a lock ring remover and chain whip to remove the rear cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that each time you break a spoke, the others become a little more fatigued, and a little more likely to break. Over time you may find yourself breaking spokes with more frequency. My rule of thumb is that if I've broken 5 spokes on a wheel I get it rebuilt, or at the very least professionally trued and tensioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like most things the late &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; is a great resource as is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/wheel-and-rim-truing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/wheel-and-rim-truing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T21:34:57.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16283" CreationDate="2013-06-17T21:37:11.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its just one spoke, and you are after functional, not perfection, all you would need it a spoke wrench. If its the right hand side of the rear wheel, you will need to remove the cluster so need tools for that. Tourers often/usually carry spare spokes and can replace them on the side of the road if needed, so you don't need all the gear the LBS has (although it sure makes things easier).....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual task for replacement is straight forward (in theory) - replace the spoke, re-install the wheel on the bike and put the bike in a work stand or something so the wheel can spin (upside down is a last resort), use a zip tie on a frame member as a guide and tighten/loose spokes to true the rim.  In practice, being your first, it will take all day as every &quot;tweak&quot; you make will appear to do strange things elsewhere. The trick is slow-slowly. Take you time, no more than 1/4 turn then re-check. You might need to tweak the spokes up to a few each side of the broken one - more than that and either the wheel was not true to begin with or something else is happening..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look for reasons why the spoke failed, and consider a visit to the LBS if truing the wheel gives you a heap of trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T21:37:11.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4010" CreationDate="2013-06-17T23:24:46.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Miami CitizenBike. This may sound like heresy, but I prefer it to my Dahon Eco:&#xA; better riding position, ease of configuration.&#xA;If I had known I was going to like the Citizenbike so much I would not have bought the Dahon.&#xA;I just bought another (the Tokio, 16&quot;, 6 speeds), waiting for it to arrive&#xA;End of my two cents. No: I don't work for Citizen bike, neither I am a disgruntled Dahon user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7241" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T23:24:46.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16283" CreationDate="2013-06-18T01:04:54.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the broken spoke is not behind the rear cassette, replacement requires only a spoke wrench.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, 3/4ths of broken spokes occur on the rear wheel and on the drive side, so you need the appropriate tools for removing your cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truing a wheel after replacing a single spoke is usually relatively easy, and does not demand fancy tools.  (Though of course if you're looking for an excuse to buy a tension meter and truing stand, have at it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T01:04:54.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16290" CreationDate="2013-06-18T02:56:51.007" Score="1" ViewCount="968" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've dented the rim on my Shimano WH-RS-10 rear wheel. I found the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/WH/EV-WH-RS10-R-2746F_v1_m56577569830686101.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tech doc pdf&lt;/a&gt;. I've had wheels rebuilt before but always with rims that were available to consumers. I can't find any place that sells the Shimano rim, nipples, or spokes to rebuild this wheel. I know I can get close matches from other companies, but I'm looking for identical components to match the good front wheel I have. Does Shimano actually provide these components for sale? Would this be something my LBS could order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastEditorUserId="721" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T10:17:52.837" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:35:22.763" Title="rebuild shimano wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16289" CreationDate="2013-06-18T03:14:56.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can order replacement parts from an LBS who is, or has access to a Shimano distributor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are unlikely to find that rim or those spokes in stock, because they are unique to the wheel, and it is not cost effective for a shop to keep them on hand given the relatively small chance that someone will need them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ordering them, though, should be straightforward, and cost less than 200 dollars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T18:35:22.763" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T18:35:22.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16292" CreationDate="2013-06-18T03:29:25.413" Score="3" ViewCount="5206" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter's bike has a threaded headset, and I don't know what tool I need to adjust it. As you can see from the picture, there are the following parts in the stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a knurled ring, which presumably isn't very tool-friendly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a ring (with a diameter of 35 or 36 mm) with three notches spaced equally apart (I'm not sure whether or not this is permanently attached to the knurled ring)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a standard six-sided nut, which I assume I can loosen and tighten with an ordinary crescent wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like I'll need some sort of special tool for the ring with the three notches. What tool will I need for adjusting this headset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYWc9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;headset&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T09:00:36.443" Title="What tool is needed to adjust this headset on a children's bike?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16291" CreationDate="2013-06-18T07:32:30.303" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom ring is used to provide tension against the bearings to stop the headset from wobbling around. It only needs to be hand tight, hence no spanner/tool attachments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The middle and top ring are tightened against each other, as a lock ring to prevent the bottom ring from loosening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top ring can be tightened with any spanner of the right size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The middle ring requires a specialised spanner called a C-Spanner, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_w.html#wrench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hook wrench&lt;/a&gt; or a hook spanner. It looks like the image below and is readily available from any bike shop or online store. Eg: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17920&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chain reaction&lt;/a&gt; sells one from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/crank-and-bottom-bracket-wrench-hcw-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wiYXl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2013-06-18T23:56:28.573" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T23:56:28.573" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2013-06-18T10:32:41.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Shimano XTR M988 Trail Wheelset is built with the spokes crossing but not interlaced, they just pass over without contact and after a fair bit of riding (and not gentle) they seem adept in corners and rigid as any other wheelset I have ridden. Possibly down to the rim technology though? I am now in the process of builing a wheelset using the same technique but using lightweight components for my XC bike. Hopefully I'll get the same results from this project....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only ever seems like an additional stress point when they are interlaced although the derrailleur clearance is a decent point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7244" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T10:32:41.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16282" CreationDate="2013-06-18T10:50:07.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd check the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Quick Visual Inspection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for obvious signs of damage. In particular look at the wheels, tyres, handlebars and pedals. Really you're just checking that everything is pointing the right way. If anything doesn't look right, pick a different bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;As You Get On&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stand next to the bike, grab the handlebars, and push the bike forwards as you walk alongside it. Check both wheels rotate freely and listen for any unusual sounds (rubbing, grinding). Pull each brake lever in turn and check that the brakes operate correctly (you should be able to lock the wheel). Spin the pedals backwards and check that they rotate freely, listen for any unusual sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straddle the bike. With one foot on the floor, put most of your weight on the bike and check the tyres for underinflation (look for bulges at the bottom of the tyre). Start cycling slowly, check the brakes again. Check the gears operate smoothly. Off you go...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T10:50:07.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4486" CreationDate="2013-06-18T17:23:22.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My v-brakes squealed when applied and moaned when riding slow. I tried all of the toe in and out and different pads to no avail. One day I had the front wheel off and notice a very tiny bit of play in the axle. I tightened the bearing cup to snug but the wheel still spun freely. No more noise. Next day I did the same for the rear wheel and now my bike is stealth quiet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T17:23:22.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16326" CreationDate="2013-06-18T17:52:42.647" Score="36" ViewCount="33270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not ride competitively, but plan on doing some longer distance rides (30+ miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that better components are lighter, run more smoothly, and last longer. Out of those three categories, durability (lasting longer) is the only one that really matters for me, as long as the components don't break all the time and get the job done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the main advantages of high end components the reduced &lt;strong&gt;weight&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;smoother&lt;/strong&gt; operation, or are they significantly more &lt;strong&gt;durable&lt;/strong&gt; as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5485" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-09-04T17:57:22.353" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T14:34:18.713" Title="How much do components really matter for a non-competitive rider?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16297" CreationDate="2013-06-18T18:17:36.540" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a little bit of information that's in contradiction to &quot;higher end equals better&quot;  Lower end components can sometimes last longer and be less problematic than the higher end components.  In order to shave off every single gram they sometimes have to skimp on materials.  Also, the tolerances are much tighter, and high end components can often be difficult to tune because fractions of a millimeter matter.  An 8 speed derailleur can be quite a bit out of tune before you'd notice. The same can't be said for a 10 speed.  With so many gears, there's very little room for error. 10 speed chains are thinner, and therefore stretch and break more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't go for very low end stuff, because it often will be made bad, and will break faster.  But different components are built with different goals in mind.  Very high end parts are often built for racers, who have professional mechanics who can ensure that everything is tuned properly, and parts are replaced more frequently.  If you buy decent components and maintain them well, you'll get plenty of life out of them, and you'll be able to replace them when it's necessary, instead of waiting until it's too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T18:17:36.540" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="65742" CreationDate="2013-06-18T19:05:33.793" Score="7" ViewCount="13673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I adjusted my stem height the other day, and since then, the stem hasn't felt straight. I've attempted to straighten it a few times, but because I'm just eyeballing it, the handlebars don't quite seem right when I ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have similar problems when I try to straighten my saddle or brifters; is this hard for other people, too, or do I just have some sort of alignment-blindness? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a simple way to make the stem objectively straight instead of relying on my subjective (and wrong) judgment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-06-18T21:50:09.440" LastActivityDate="2020-01-04T11:39:12.503" Title="How do you make the handlebar stem straight?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-18T19:38:36.560" Score="1" ViewCount="2039" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom bracket on my Van Nicholas Astraeus is a creaking when going up hills. It's already been tightened recently, yet seems to creek more and more lately - probably due to the mileage (many, many thousands of miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom bracket is a Shimano Ultegra 6700 (SM-BB6700), I've been looking at upgrading the unit.  I have an existing Shimano Ultegra crankset, would a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-dura-ace-7900-bottom-bracket-cup-set/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Dura Ace 7900 Bottom Bracket&lt;/a&gt; be compatible with this setup?  I'm also looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/hope-ceramic-bottom-bracket/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hope bottom brackets&lt;/a&gt;, do ceramic bottom brackets last longer?  Or are they just smoother?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T20:21:48.330" Title="Shimano Ultegra Bottom bracket replacement with Dura-Ace" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16297" CreationDate="2013-06-18T20:15:04.457" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;This very much depends on how exactly you define the classes of components and what type of riding you plan on doing. The definitions are not standardized, but component ranges from each manufacturer are easily ranked. The following are the MSRP of complete group sets for Shimano (the price ranges are similar for other manufacturers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dura Ace 9000: $2699.92 (high-end)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultegra 6800: $1249.92 (mid-high)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;105 5700: $1024.85 (mid-range)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tiagra (mid-low)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sora (low-end)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-series (very low-end)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you truly only care about durability and don't care about either weight or smoothness of operation, then you will probably find that mid-range components are a better value for you than high-end components. Even if high-end components (e.g., Dura Ace) turn out to be more durable than mid-range components (e.g., Ultegra, 105, maybe Tiagra), this would probably not justify the more-than-double cost if the only thing you care about is durability. If you had to replace every part, you would still come out ahead in terms of dollars spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mid-range components (e.g., 105, Tiagra) are far more durable than low-end components (e.g., Sora, non-series). Any but the most undedicated rider can appreciate the benefits of mid-range over low-end components. I personally bought a used bike with Ultegra that cost about the same as a new bike with Sora, and I feel like I would be wasting my money to get a bike with Sora.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From how you describe your riding, it sounds like you would probably find the best value from mid-low to mid-range components, but this completely depends on the degree to which you are constrained by cost. Because more expensive components can &lt;em&gt;sometimes&lt;/em&gt; be less durable than cheaper components, it is too easy to be dismissive and assume that the high-end components are Veblen goods (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2009/09/what-does-expensive-mean.html&quot;&gt;The Online Photographer&lt;/a&gt; for a discussion related to photography equipment, a similar market).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One person can't say whether a product's price is &quot;worth it&quot; to someone with a completely different income and lifestyle. I once talked to someone who owned &quot;Lance Armstrong's bike&quot; (after I asked, it turns out it was the same model, not a collector's item), which was an example of the 'high status of allegedly &quot;pro&quot; products among amateurs'. But this person was happy with his bike and seemed to be at least somewhat appreciative of its benefits over a low-end bicycle. Few cycling products qualify as Veblen goods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[With bikes], there's not an inverse relationship between cost and durability, like there is with other items like clothing. A $40 pair of jeans will be vastly more durable than a $2,000 dress, but a $2,000 bike will probably be far tougher than a $100 Wal-Mart special. That's because bikes are built to be ridden. Race bikes are built to withstand the rigors of competitive use. Yes, there are exceptions--plenty of campanies make ultra-lightweight frames, wheels, tires, etc. that are intended for specific events only and will not stand up to everyday use. But generally speaking, this stuff is meant to be used. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0811869989&quot;&gt;Bike Snob&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, each person must decide what they need and are willing to pay and whether a product provides benefits that they will appreciate. Don't jump to the assumption that other non-competitive riders are wasting their money on expensive crap, but also don't feel guilty if you don't notice or appreciate the difference in weight between two bikes. And if you end up doing longer or steeper rides, you can always change your mind later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-06-19T03:20:59.070" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T03:20:59.070" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16300" CreationDate="2013-06-18T20:21:48.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Providing that is of the same type and size it will interchange. As an example hollow-tech II 10 speed BB30 English will interchange Dura-Ace, Ultegra, 105 will all fit. Ceramic bearings are sold as smoother hence less resistance, will you notice the difference? It is hard to say, but probable not except in your wallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T20:21:48.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16299" CreationDate="2013-06-18T21:24:58.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A problem many hit when trying to straighten the stem is that they end up aligning the stem with the bike while the wheel is &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; straight. A degree or two isn't noticeable until you are riding and then it really bothers you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of trying to align three things (bike, stem, wheel), turn the wheel about 45 degrees. Now align the stem (I generally do it with the wheel trapped between my legs and the bike in front of me) to the wheel. It's much easier to ignore the bike when it's not even close to in-line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T21:24:58.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16299" CreationDate="2013-06-18T22:15:06.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sight down the middle of the bike and line up components on the bike centerline, like the stem, top tube, seat tube, BB shell, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T22:15:06.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2781" CreationDate="2013-06-18T22:31:23.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on the design goals for the bike. High-end road bike gear often isn't terribly durable because it's designed to minimize weight at the expense of all else. Carbon is likely to be less durable in the long run than metal, especially if the bike's used for utility purposes and regularly locked up and knocked around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap fixed gear is pretty low-maintenance: in order of frequency, all you have to do is oil the chain, change the brake pads, change the tires and chain, and replace the bottom bracket and wheel bearings. After a few years, the brakes might wear through the rims. But you're giving up functionality (that you may or may not want) in exchange for less maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More expensive hand-built wheels generally are stronger than cheaper machine-built wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T22:31:23.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16282" CreationDate="2013-06-18T22:52:35.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far, I've come across one bike with a broken pedal, and one with a seatpost stuck at minimum height. So eyeball the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other cities, it's apparently become conventional to put the seat backwards on broken bikes. I've seen it occasionally here, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T22:52:35.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-19T01:03:39.820" Score="4" ViewCount="1284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a daily commuter on my road bike. I commute into Manchester NH. Over the years drivers seem to have gotten better and better at passing me safely. I attribute this to the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Me learning how to influence the driver (body language, lane position, eye contact)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Regular commuters on my route getting used to seeing me on the road&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Actually speaking to drivers and telling them the law. (Some people have slowed down after i shouted &quot;3 feet&quot; at them and I was able to tell the that NH is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gencourt.state.nh.us/rsa/html/XXI/265/265-143-a.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;3 foot law&quot;&gt;3 foot Law&lt;/a&gt; state&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there are still drivers that pass much too close. I typically stop immediately and call the non emergency Manchester PD line to report it. At no time have I ever been followed up on a call. Also dispatch is not interested in actually filing a police report. I feel that filing a police report is important so that the city and state actually record when crimes occur. The worst scenario is when dispatch tells me I need to ride a far right as possible rather than &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gencourt.state.nh.us/rsa/html/XXI/265/265-144.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;as far right as safe&quot;&gt;as far right as safe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could escalate with the PD but I am in no way interested in making a name for myself as someone who thinks the local PD isn't doing their job for something as 'small' as riding to close to a second class citizen cyclist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question (finally) is what reasonable options do I have to help educate the few problem drivers that still exist. Thoughts of small claims court for 'damages' are some things that come to my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5368" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T14:31:34.060" Title="Is there legal recourse to drivers passing too close?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15823" CreationDate="2013-06-19T01:23:37.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming this is a 3 piece Shimano sealed-cartridge square-taper style bottom bracket, since you didn't provide any further info, and that fits the price/style/vintage of that bike. (for more on bottom bracket styles, read the always useful &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cartridge.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown site&lt;/a&gt;). Additionally, how is the derailleur out of adjustment? Is it a cable tension issue? Is it not a front derailleur position (yaw, height) issue from getting moved during the operation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you did not alter the position of the front derailleur, and following my assumption of the BB type, you probably did not install your bottom bracket properly as @Hicks was getting at. Most 3 piece bottom brackets have 2 cups with the threading, and the bearing/spindle set itself which fits inside the cups. (If not, the drive-side threading is probably fixed to the bearing/spindle assembly (but also possibly not)). These bottom brackets are generally larger than the bottom bracket shell of the frame (depending on manufacturer), which means the bottom bracket's threading will be protruding from at least one side of the bike. If the drive-side of the crank spindle protrudes further from the bottom bracket shell than it should, your front derailleur will always be off by that distance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When installing the bottom bracket, you must fully thread the drive side first so that it matches flush with the bottom bracket shell of the frame. Then you can thread the non-drive side (for further instructions, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cartridge-bearing-type-bottom-bracket-service-bbt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tools Guide&lt;/a&gt;. Re-attach crank-arms, recombombulate bicycle, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After following this process, your front shifting may still be off--the factory or mechanic that built your bike may have adjusted the front derailleur with the bottom bracket not fully-threaded in on the drive side. If it's still not shifting correctly I'd suggest learning to adjust your front derailleur, because that's a much more worthwhile endeavor than trying to improperly install the bottom-bracket exactly as it was when you got it/had it repaired last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7234" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T01:23:37.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16308" CreationDate="2013-06-19T01:42:38.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem of drivers passing cyclists too close, while dangerous, is well below the threshold of being a serious road safety concern when considering other causes of death and injury on the road (at least in my country where drunk drivers, speeding and inattention kill 100s of people every year, vs between 0 and 2 cyclist being passed too close). All you will do if you persist in involving the PD is annoy them, they really do have much more important things to deal with... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have no claim in civil courts. What damage have you suffered - the civil courts (rightly) cannot compensate you for something when you did not suffer a loss. You might be able to prove mental hardship, not sure I would want to go down that path.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Criminal investigation and criminal courts - unfortunately in most countries, its that outcome, not the action itself that determines the laws response. If the outcome is a slightly miffed cyclist, usually nothing will happen. If its  a dead cyclist, then the full force of law will swing into action and (in my country at least), the driver will slapped in the wrist with a wet sock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some countries you an bring a private criminal case - the significant sums of money involved that would make it an unreasonable response. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You ask 'what reasonable steps&quot; and &quot;educate problem drivers&quot;... The only reasonable response is accept you cannot &quot;educate&quot; everyone and continue to &quot;educate&quot; drivers open to it - or stop riding your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T01:42:38.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16299" CreationDate="2013-06-19T02:50:53.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After making sure your handlebar is properly centered in the stem clamp and it is not bent (from a crash for example) locate the bike over the lines of a straight and well installed tiled floor. Use the crossed pattern as a guide: Align the front wheel with lengthwise lines and compare the handlebar ends with a crossed line. As the Handlebar halves are longer than most stems, any misalignment would be magnified at the ends, thus making it easier to &quot;see&quot; the error and correct it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To further increase the &quot;precision&quot; of this technique, use only one eye, and try to align that eye with the vertical plane of the front wheel, that means shifting your head an approximately inch to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T02:50:53.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16308" CreationDate="2013-06-19T03:53:58.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can relate to your disdain for being passed to close. Preferably, everyone would give you at least 3 feet. But as you mentioned, as more and more people ride their bikes and drivers get used to your presence and others', it will get better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with your wish is, it's kind of like prosecuting someone for stealing five cents from you. Sure, it's against the law to steal five cents from you, but no judge is going to hear the case. It's small potatoes. Too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could get one of those shirts that has the 3 foot rule on the back though. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.3footrule.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.3footrule.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T03:53:58.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16253" CreationDate="2013-06-19T04:50:13.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calculating the average speed after a tour is easy. You know the start time, the end time, and the length of your route. Therefore, you can find out the average speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using &quot;average over distance&quot; approach:&lt;/strong&gt; What if your track is so hilly that calculating every 10th of a mile is useless again? Then we would need to use every 100th of a mile. This will get more accurate, but will not be exact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use a unit like &quot;speed per meter&quot;. You would have to track the average speed of every meter then, which will be extremely difficult (even with assistance of a bike computer/smartphone). Still, every meter is an average speed, so, mathematically seen, it is still not exact. You would need the speed of an infinite small part of a meter to get the exact speed, which is impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, from my point of view, it is not done for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Difficult to track&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mathematically incorrect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can calculate anything the way you want. We will not tell anyone ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T04:50:13.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16232" CreationDate="2013-06-19T05:35:22.943" Score="10" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stand on pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knees bent (not straight) keeping your butt 10-20cm from the seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your hands should be very relaxed on the handlebars (your body should be supported 95% with feet and just 5% with hands)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep your back straight (do not hunchback)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look ahead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enjoy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works on all bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzoSV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;sketch from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0736083715&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Mastering-Mountain-Bike-Skills-Edition/dp/0736083715&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T05:35:22.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16253" CreationDate="2013-06-19T07:28:38.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is really a statistics / maths question rather than a bicycles question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the sum you are proposing would be closer to the median speed than the mean (average). There are 3 key statistical measures that can all be useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mean or average in the case of speed would be distance/time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say we take the average speed over every 1 minute over a 60 min ride, the median is the speed at which 30 of the samples are below the median and 30 are above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mode is the most commonly occurring average speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T07:28:38.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16253" CreationDate="2013-06-19T08:08:39.777" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main issue with what you're talking about is that from a mathematical perspective, 'average' already has a strict meaning, and in this context nearly always means 'arithmetic mean'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/math/f/3/4/f3423b62fdd7cf4cb0381baa04f4ada7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Arithmetic Mean&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Average&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Average&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to talk about another measure of speed, you have to drop the term 'average speed' at the very least. What your method seems to be referring to would be something like the average of multiple constant interval average speeds, and as such two people both reporting their AoMCIAS could vary wildly, even if they traveled side-by-side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, why pick tenths of a mile? There are infinite variants of division lengths unit choices such that two AoMCIAS numbers can't even be related (unless the distance has been mutually agreed upon before measurement collection). Good luck getting the U.S. to adopt the metric system or the rest of the world to adopt Imperial units, so at minimum you'd have U.S. bicyclists reporting it over 0.1 mile intervals and everyone else at, perhaps, 0.2 km intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that matter, why use length as the interval control? If you use a GPS, it's storing the data in semi-regular interval time units (depending on the unit and resolution setting), perhaps someone else tries to unify the U.S. with the rest of the world and proposes 10 second intervals as the new standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that AoMCIAS speed numbers would not convey enough information in and of their own value, like averages do. You'd have to report them as &quot;24.56 miles/hour AoMCIAS over 0.1 mile intervals&quot;, and that value would vary so wildly by interval choice that it could ONLY be compared to other AoMCIAS speeds with the exact same interval. There wouldn't be a static conversion that could be done, either, you would need to completely resample the intervals from raw data, if it was even available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this is completely independent of it's relevance as a speed measure for bicycling (I have a mathematics degree, and don't time any of my bicycle rides). What I mean by this is: &lt;strong&gt;it's possible that you could devise a creative method such as AoMCIAS with an ideal interval distance or time such that the number reflects something more accurate about bicycling performance, and it may even be useful inside of the bicycling context (and likely ONLY the bicycling context). However, it will be of little to no value to anyone else, mathematically or even quick comparison-wise in colloquial speech.&lt;/strong&gt; Two numbers could only really compared with equivalent intervals, and any ability to do neat things quickly in your head with such values would be relegated to special calculators, computer programs, and perhaps some genius savants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T08:08:39.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16323" CreationDate="2013-06-19T08:52:21.197" Score="8" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride XC for recreation: trails, dirt roads, gravel roads, some rock beds. The bike has a hard-tail frame with, 80mm travel fork and 2.10 inch tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that pumping the tires a lot makes riding on asphalt easier, however grip is reduced off-road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How should I determine the correct pressure of the tires for optimum &lt;strong&gt;grip&lt;/strong&gt; when descending, while still avoiding pinch flats? Can this be expressed as a function of the recommended minimum and maximum pressure? Is it different for the front and rear tire?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-09-04T18:06:19.063" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T18:06:19.063" Title="How to determine tyre pressure for trail descents?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16253" CreationDate="2013-06-19T09:19:31.260" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;By computing your average speed over a distance, you basically sample the distance (delta S) and measure the time (t_i) each time you reach the defined sampling distance. The formula then to compute your average speed would be: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlhGb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the problem starts. By decreasing your sampling distance as previously proposed to increase your &quot;accuracy&quot;, you will reduce the time difference (t_i - t_(i-1) ). Let say you decrease your sampling distance towards zero, your time difference will tend towards 0 to... Which lead to a mathematical problem of 0/0, which is undetermined...&#xA;The only correct average speed you can get from this formula is by choosing your sampling distance to the complete distance of your ride. You have then only one sample (n=1) and t_0 is your start time and t_1 your end time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want to &quot;mathematically&quot; increase your average speed, then you can apply this formula and chose a sampling distance which corresponds to your wish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7048" LastEditorUserId="7048" LastEditDate="2013-06-19T09:24:49.170" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T09:24:49.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-19T09:36:08.693" Score="4" ViewCount="2325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built up a NOS late 90s steel frame with a similar era Campagnolo Chorus 9 speed groupset. Has gone well, except the stays/dropouts don't seem to quite like a 9 speed cassette. The second smallest cog (14T) rubs a tiny bit and the smallest cog (13T) rubs a lot, so as to be unusable. I've set my limitscrew to keep me off the smallest cog and have done lots of km that way, but I'd really like to use the smallest cog and am trying to work out how. I tried swapping the hub spacers, but on this particular hub, that would have moved the dish way too far to the side. So basically I'm trying to figure out the cleanest hack (bonus if it's cheap as well) to get the full cassette usable on this frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached a picture for clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ui7fu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;some nice chain-seatstay rub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh also, OLN of the hub (a fulcrum racing 7) is 130 and it fits without trouble, but given the age, it's possible it was originally a 126, though I think the paint job is original so perhaps not (I took off the paint around the dropouts, when I, er, discovered this problem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2636" LastEditorUserId="2636" LastEditDate="2013-06-19T23:27:56.957" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T03:36:39.453" Title="smallest cog of cassette rubbing on seatstay" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3112" CreationDate="2013-06-19T10:35:55.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tapered headsets with a larger lower bearing are becoming more common on road bikes. Doesn't make any difference to what stems fit, but if you are replacing a headset (or fork), it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/category_list/53/HEADSETS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/category_list/53/HEADSETS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And 1&quot; threadless headsets also exist. Most likely to be on an older bike that has had a new headset fitted, I suspect.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T10:35:55.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16371" CreationDate="2013-06-19T11:23:21.873" Score="3" ViewCount="7900" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Tektro R320 Calliper brakes on my bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/BCTKTR320/tektro_r320_brake_caliper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/BCTKTR320/tektro_r320_brake_caliper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's time for some new pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the ones on this appear to be all in one, bolt straight into the pad on the calliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I look on wiggle, my usual online component supplier, there are lots of blocks for cartridges, or blocks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/swissstop-flash-pro-green-high-performance-blocks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/swissstop-flash-pro-green-high-performance-blocks/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But not so many options that look like what is in the Tektro OEM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know what I can fit? what's compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T15:06:23.793" Title="What pads are compatible?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16318" CreationDate="2013-06-19T12:57:23.873" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Snake bites (i.e pinch flats) depend on tyre strength, tube thickness (in case you use tubes), rider weight, riding style, terain and luck (or unluck). You really need to experiment with the pressures. For example test if 25/30 PSI (front/rear) feels good and see how long you can go with that without a pinch flat. If you get a pinch flat on the rear once a year then I guess you can continue using 25/30. But if you, like me, get them once a week then you definitelly need to increase the pressure. Note that pinch flats usually happen on the rear. In the last 3 years I've had 2 pinch flats on the front and like 20 on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in the end of this iterative process you have increased the pressure too much (e.g 45+ PSI) then there is a high possibility that the specific bike and tyres you use are not meant to do what you make them do. i.e you need heavier tyres or more suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you switch to tubeless you'll be able to run the same PSI and most probably completely avoid pinch flats. Note though that pinch flats are still possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure you read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-tire-pressure-2011.html&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-tire-pressure-2011.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-The-Point-Tire-Pressure-2013.html&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-The-Point-Tire-Pressure-2013.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the other specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Can this be expressed as a function of the recommended minimum and maximum pressure?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Also, not many people agree with the min/max numbers. Some people say that the max is a warning to never exceed that and just a number to reach when initially inflating the tyre in order to let it seat correctly. Then you deflate to your desired number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Is it different for the front and rear tire?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitelly. Some people say around 5 PSI more on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T12:57:23.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-19T14:50:40.657" Score="4" ViewCount="2580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that road caliper brakes use shorter (and wider?) pads than v-brakes and MTB cantilevers, but I don't exactly understand the reason behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would happen if I mount longer pads on road-style calipers and vice versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T19:28:20.030" Title="Difference between brake pads on road and MTBs" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16297" CreationDate="2013-06-19T19:25:04.133" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that you're talking about road biking. I can give you my opinion after using these groups for a while: Shimano Sora, Shimano Tiagra, Shimano 105, and now a full Shimano Ultegra. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All work, when properly adjusted and when shifting correctly. You have to do your homework and know how to shift smoothly, and adjust the gears. Whoever tells you that something is &quot;not good&quot; or &quot;does not work&quot; is lying or wants you to expend money. But of course different levels are there for a reason:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight: More expensive is lighter.&#xA;Stiffness: More expensive is stiffer, therefore transmitting your power better without loss of energy.&#xA;Ergonomics: More expensive groups tend to have a refined shape.&#xA;Reliability: More expensive groups tend to stay tuned longer than less expensive ones.&#xA;Shifting under pressure or more than one gear at the time: Expensive groups allow you to do it, cheaper ones don't.&#xA;Smoothness and speed: Shifting is faster and smoother on expensive groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you notice, I put smoothness and speed last. It is usually one of the reasons that people mention as being key, but in my experience proper adjustment and proper shifting technique are more important than the group. My bike with Sora/Tiagra shifts as smoothly as the Ultegra after adjustment. But the other reasons are important to many people. Even if they don't compete they may want a light, stiff, and reliable group that makes the experience of biking more pleasurable (although the real pleasure is riding, of course), and they are willing to pay for it. They are undoubtedly &quot;nicer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding durability, I'm skeptical about people's comments. Most of the times people change chains and cassettes because they are worn out, and upgrades/changes the rest of the group's components as new models appear, not necessarily because they don't &quot;last&quot;. If you're a recreational rider, whatever you buy will &quot;last&quot; more than you will need.  I've seen 20 yr-old bikes that work perfectly, provided that the user changed the chain and cassette regularly. But remember durability and reliability are two different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At which point is not worth expending more money? Difficult to tell, but here is my suggestion (take it as a suggestion and nothing more):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dura Ace or Sram Red if you compete.&#xA;Ultegra or Sram Force if you are an enthusiast that races or values to have a performance group.&#xA;105 or Sram Rival if you want a very nice recreational group.&#xA;Tiagra or Sram Apex if you want a solid recreational group.&#xA;Sora and below if you are a recreational rider that does not want to spend too much money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I recently had the luxury of trying a bike with electronic shifting (a Shimano Ultegra Di2) and I would like to add to my answer that in this case, the hype is true. It is a true revolutionary thing. Expensive, very expensive. Worth it? Probably not. But really good, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastEditorUserId="4965" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T17:41:09.867" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T17:41:09.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16325" CreationDate="2013-06-19T19:28:20.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you open the quick release on your caliper brakes, the brakes open wider to allow you to release your wheel quickly without deflating your tire. Longer brake pads could then touch the frame or fork and chip the paint. Some people even trim down their canti brake pads to avoid this scenario and sometimes in an attempt to reduce brake shudder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, most v-brake style pads come with a series of washers (one concave and one convex that on either side of the brake arm you bolt to) that allow some angle adjustment which allows you to set the toe in and angle of approach on your brake pads without bending the brake arms.  This is available on some brake pads intended for caliper brakes as well, but the washers tend to be much smaller. The extra washers may also prevent you from removing the wheel without deflating your tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But will these pads stop you? Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T19:28:20.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1989" CreationDate="2013-06-19T20:05:34.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have attached many things to my bike. Alas I only have a few sample pictures, to help illustrate everything I have learned so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fig1. This is a trailer I made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nY47h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trailer I built&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fig2. These are some alternate Tesco boxes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b9Qic.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cardboard Tesco Vegetable Boxes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fig3. This is how I improvised with tape to attach wood and metal onto the rack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XtQee.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tape fixes everything&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fig4. This is an improvised basket after the standard &quot;Decathlon Modular System&quot; basket broke:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rM6SN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Replaced DMS basket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I used was the panniers as seen in fig1, for a DOE (Duke of Edinburgh Award) cycling expedition; they were insufficient, so a tent, a carrimat (rolled up foam for under a sleeping bag) and a backpack was place on top of the bulging panniers and held down with bungees. As the panniers were equally bulging, almost anything could be securely held on with bungees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started doing Tesco (a supermarket) shopping on the back, I put all heavy items into the panniers, and bulky lighter items such as bread, vegetables, tissues etc, I would stack into cardboard boxes as seen in fig2 - as I went round shopping. These boxes can sometimes be procured if you go to Tesco at 2am to shop; they throw them away otherwise (found in vegetables isles), and they are very good for stacking, sturdy, very light and FREE. When these are stacked, they can be balances across two bulging panniers, and provided you use enough bungee cords (i recommend the carabiner ended ones rather than hook-ended ones, you can get the carabiner ended ones from Poundland (a discount-store) sometimes, they vary in length and size and quality) you can securely attach your shopping, but don't go over bumps too fast, and don't tilt too much as your centre of gravity is somewhat raised despite keeping heavy things in the panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to using those boxes, I must admit I used a lot of plastic electrical insulation tape, which is cheap - provided you multi-layer it, it is very strong and good for short journeys. It can be used to improvise almost anything onto a bike, though it is time consuming - fig3. (Those are rolled hollow section metal bars, and some boards of wood). I had some bad experiences with tape before discovering the  cardboard boxes, mostly I ran out when trying to secure two discounted boxes of 36 packs of hobnobs (biscuits/cookies) onto the top of an already sizeable shop. They kept falling as I had not enough tape; ultimately I put my coat around them and tied the arms around the seat to hold them on. The shops I did were for 4 students, once a week - a lot of food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Entering the world of work, I figured I needed something more professional. Naturally I reminisced back to my previous experiences, and decided I would bungee tie my laptop bag onto the top of a rear basket, a basket which contained tools. I figured the sides of the basket would have sufficient 'bite' to grip my padded bag with the bungees. They did, but Decathlon's modular system basket was crushed over time; so I had to improvise a new basket on. A shopping basket seemed ideal, but they are expensive; so i used a dish-drying rack. That broke, so I got a chunkier one. Broke. Got an aluminium one, tried to solder the joints with electrical solder and it just ran off; progressed to glue gun which worked until the shaking caused the glue to fall off and the welds popped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the recycling men did not come, so I used straps to attach the wheelie bin by the handles to the back of my bike, and thus towed it like a very noisy trailer and got some funny looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My most ambitious project was making the trailer seen in fig1, the metal I used was too thick so it was very heavy, and although the articulated joint I devised worked very well - the way it attached to the bike was a bit fiddly. You need to be very mindful of your increased width and lessened reversing ability! Snaking can occur when going downhill. The actual construction was quite a lot of work, I would advise against it unless you enjoy making things; as you might be left with only those memories and a not very useful trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I attached the top part of a rack to another rack to allow me to put XL double panniers far back from where my feet can hit them. If I were to shop with those, I would acquire some of those cardboard boxes and carefully strap 3-4 to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regret, very much, that I did not take more pictures. But I really doing it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, if you want to move a lot of shopping, and don't want a trailer, I would recommend large panniers with a couple of those stackable cardboard boxes on top, and a roll of tape in case you need to improvise attaching a bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7259" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-03-27T22:12:29.913" LastActivityDate="2020-03-27T22:12:29.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16389" CreationDate="2013-06-19T20:13:02.047" Score="1" ViewCount="1460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a &quot;Basil Mara XXL Double Pannier Bag&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0O9Rv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Basil Mara XXL Double Pannier Bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, with a small load, they seemed to explode off and fly over the road. It appears that the stitching was meagre, which held the two straps to the panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; buy some belt strap material and use thick Nylon thread to repair and reinforce them, but doing this is time intensive I have found; I would prefer to attempt to return them and get new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What advice can you give me on buying these saddled bags? Are some brands more sturdy than others or is it impossible to tell from brand alone? Street level shops I visited have a poor selection in London, these double panniers appear to be quite a rare breed - any good places to look? Recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;edit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to use separate individual panniers, but they were small, whereas with larger panniers my heel will clip them. To get around this, unable to get a rack which extends back far enough, I attached the top section of an old rack onto my current rack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RsgTM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any saddled bag would be hanging 2 inches further back thanks to the extended rack space, and the angle means they are further clear of my feet. A bungee cord hooks over the straps of the pannier, then over/around the rear of the upper pannier to secure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stronger strapped, large double panniers would be perfect - I find it a little too fiddly to deal with individual panniers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7259" LastEditorUserId="7259" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T08:19:42.663" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T07:27:59.750" Title="Guidance for buying large double saddle panniers" Tags="&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16342" CreationDate="2013-06-19T21:48:38.803" Score="3" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a bit of chai latte (yes, it was mine; I don't like coffee) got spilled over the front of my bike yesterday (NOT MY FAULT, I swear). My bike didn't care... but my combination lock did. The numbers don't want to move independently of one another now, and don't like to line up properly either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning suggestions? I honestly have no clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8262/how-to-deal-with-lock-that-keeps-jamming&quot;&gt;&quot;How to deal with lock that keeps jamming&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (but that's for a U-lock, not a combo lock)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T10:11:21.213" Title="How to clean a combination bike lock?" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3486" CreationDate="2013-06-19T22:24:04.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grab hold of the derailleur and try and wobble it. If there is any play it will move to towards the wheel under pressure, the chain will try and stay straight and will try to jump up to the next largest cog or slip between cogs. Hopefully it’s just loose and can be tightened with a hex key, else the housing is worn and its time for a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7262" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T22:24:04.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3112" CreationDate="2013-06-20T00:10:55.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tapered 1.125/ 1.5 inch head tubes are common on many higher end mountain bikes in 2013 with more bikes and manufacturers heading this way. Most top suspension forks are offered in both straight and tapered steerers. It is possible to use a headset that reduces bottom width in tapered head tubes to a straight 1.125 steerer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapered headsets improve stiffness and strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T00:10:55.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13682" CreationDate="2013-06-20T00:19:23.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a suitably skilled person braze (for steel or aluminium) or graft (for carbon fibre) an eyelet onto the frame, of sufficient diameter to accommodate a good U-lock of sufficient length to enable you to secure the frame to a bike rack. (IMO, all recumbents should be offered with such a feature as standard.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secure any relatively removable parts of the bike by threading a good chain through them and locking that, too, with the U-lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7263" LastEditorDisplayName="user7263" LastEditDate="2017-05-04T07:55:33.263" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T07:55:33.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16353" CreationDate="2013-06-20T00:25:25.240" Score="8" ViewCount="35908" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Ultegra 3x9 shifters and derailleurs that were installed just a couple months ago.  I purchased them on eBay and although they were new, they had been sitting in inventory for a couple years so not &quot;new&quot; in that sense.  New cabling was used when they were installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today my rear shifter suddenly stopped working for no apparent reason.  When I attempt to shift up to a smaller cog, the entire brake lever moves with the trigger, so they basically cancel each other out.  I inspected the cables and derailleur and everything seems fine.  Shifting still works perfectly if I hold the brake lever so it doesn't move with the trigger, and downshifting to larger cogs works fine also.  This tells me it's probably the shifter itself, not cabling or derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googling around I find many posts advising the use of WD-40 to free up a sticky shifter.  The idea is that the grease Shimano uses hardens with age and WD-40 will clean it out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this likely the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If so, how do I re-lubricate the shifter after the WD-40?  To do it properly would require at least partially disassembling the shifter, which from what I've read and having seen the schematics, is something I really don't want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T05:59:26.707" Title="How to repair sticky Ultegra shifter" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16335" CreationDate="2013-06-20T01:31:28.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Yes, it is likely the problem &#xA;2). Aerosol Grease - comes  out mixed with a volatile carrier that gets it in nearly as many places as the WD40 gets. Not as good as pulling apart and targeted greasing with small amounts in the right places as to be certain you have enough where its needed, you need a lot to go where it is not needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options are to do it as described, or pull the Brifter apart. What have you got to loose - you need new brifters if you don't try, or you try and it doesn't work. If you have a crack and it works, great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T01:31:28.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16335" CreationDate="2013-06-20T02:58:15.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 possible causes for this type of failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is a need to be cleaned and lubricated, as you have noted. That is usually a gradual failure, an would usually not result in sticking both shift levers together like you describe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the STI lever, at the top where it joins the lever body, there is a small screw.  If this screw has loosened enough to have the head stick out, it will also cuase the symptoms you are describing, and it is more likely to be an immediate change from working, to not working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good news is if this is the problem, its likely an easy fix. Just tighten the screw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try to post a photo later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T04:53:20.093" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T04:53:20.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12357" CreationDate="2013-06-20T04:49:54.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various shoes which will really help you to ride your bike long time &amp;amp; among them few are common such as Road Shoe, Mountain Shoe, Triathlon Shoe, BMX Shoe, Track Shoe. You also can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.orthoticshop.com/orthaheel-tide-orthotic-flip-flops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;find out the Orthaheel Tide shoes&lt;/a&gt; for your long comfort. As I am using my shoes, give last one is very supporter for feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7264" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T04:49:54.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16322" CreationDate="2013-06-20T07:29:43.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a complete answer to working out proper compatibility, but, wiggle customer support inform me that the swissstop green cartridges are compatible with my callipers. From this I draw the (semi) logical conclusion that if the block is design to work with a calliper brake, then it's compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue then is one of weight/aerodynamics as to whether or not &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; want it on &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; bike. Reading, people seem to find that the Shimano ultegra cartridges paired with the swissstop pads makes an excellent combination. Supposedly the ultegra cartridge is lighter and more aero and applies the block more smoothly. And the swissstop pads are supposed to be great pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6769" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T07:29:43.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16730" CreationDate="2013-06-20T08:49:15.553" Score="30" ViewCount="51649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am on the hunt for new rotors for my mechanical disc brakes, as the old are too twisted now and the brakes can't be adjusted without the disc rubbing the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between the cheapest possible rotors and several times more expensive &quot;series and branded&quot; ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="896" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T13:19:34.313" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T19:00:32.527" Title="Is there difference in quality for disc brake rotors?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16330" CreationDate="2013-06-20T10:11:21.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably, flushing with plain water followed by some lube should work. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7198" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T10:11:21.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-20T14:20:16.113" Score="4" ViewCount="2710" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the functional differences of the 'long tail' brake pads (more pad on one rear facing side of the post than the front side) versus the symmetrical (same amount of pad on either side of the post) brake pads for cantilever and v-brakes. Why would I prefer one type over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T19:52:42.983" Title="Differences between symetrical and asymetrical brake pads for cantilever / v-brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;bike-setup&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-20T17:04:33.050" Score="7" ViewCount="11937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly certain that the bars should change out quite easily; I'm more concerned about the shifters and brakes. Currently I have a hybrid 18 speed with cable disc brakes and Shimano Deore XT derailer. I know that these are typically mountain bike parts. I'm eyeing up the Shimano 105 STI dual control shifter/brake. Is this even going to work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main reason for wanting the change is after riding the road for quite a few years with flat bars my wrist are starting to take a bit of a beating. I put some bar end on the flat bars to change my grip position, which helped my wrists, but now I feel my grip is too wide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If pictures would help i can try to upload some tonight, any advice would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7272" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T20:14:52.403" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T20:14:52.403" Title="Can I convert flat bar to drop bars on a hybrid bike" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16356" CreationDate="2013-06-20T17:15:51.587" Score="13" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for, ideally, an academic study or authoritative source on what happens to stolen bikes, rather than just speculation. Is there anything I can do at this point to help track mine down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My very dear two wheeled friend disappeared into the night yesterday, after its lock was cut through. Left in a bad spot for 'a few minutes' that turned into several hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've filed a police report and the rest of it, but something that I keep wondering is where these bikes end up? Surely it would be too obvious to resell them on Kijiji or Craig's List, since people like me are now checking every couple of hours for their bike. Should I even bother looking around town, or do they get shipped off to a different city? Are they just scrapped for parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T18:45:28.097" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T19:53:22.410" Title="Where do stolen bikes go?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16758" CreationDate="2013-06-20T18:17:00.993" Score="5" ViewCount="18207" Body="&lt;p&gt;What iOS / iphone app can provide turn by turn navigation of a pre-planned (mostly on road) route (stored in GPX or TCX file)?  Voice features are nice, but not mandatory. I've found many apps that will track my ride, or display a route and my position, but none that will direct me when to turn to follow the planned route.  This would be very useful when training for an event where gpx files have been provided, or exploring new routes that I plan to ride in unfamiliar territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm ideally looking for something like the android &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.matrangola.cuesheet.ui&quot;&gt;cue sheet&lt;/a&gt; app.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T18:25:49.143" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T02:45:42.250" Title="What iOS / iphone app can give me turn by turn navigation of a pre-planned route?" Tags="&lt;maps&gt;&lt;planning&gt;&lt;navigation&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16346" CreationDate="2013-06-20T19:23:15.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many cyclocross bikes use a mix of mountain and road parts, so its not terribly unusual to see the mix, especially on bikes set up for touring the mountains. Since you already have shimano parts, the shifters should work fine, although, make sure they are for the same speed number as what your rear derailer requires, so, if you have a 9 speed rear derailer, then get 9 speed shifters. If you don't have prior experience with this, you might want to get your bike shop to put it all together. Have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6244" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T19:23:15.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16344" CreationDate="2013-06-20T19:39:10.037" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take a symmetrical pad with a given size, it is subject to two forces while braking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The braking pressure caused by cable action, directed perpendicularly against the rim. In frame-boss mounted brakes (UX, V-Brake, Cantilever), this generates a torque around the bosses, forcing the bosses and the frame to &quot;open&quot; and twist. This creates a &quot;toe in&quot; or &quot;toe out&quot;, depending of the brake being in the rear or front.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tangential force transmitted by rim rotation, which twists the frame and fork tubes inwards in the rear, and outwards in the front.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second force being much greater than the first, it is advantageous to mount an ASYMMETRICAL pad with the tail always rearwards, so that the asymmetrical reactive force (due to the shape of the pad) tends to neutralize the &quot;toe-in&quot; (or out?) effect created by the tangential force of the rim motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One caveat! In narrow forks, the tail can interfere with the fork itself, thus making it difficult to open the brake for wheel removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="2355" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T19:52:42.983" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T19:52:42.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16346" CreationDate="2013-06-20T20:14:19.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 9-speed road and mountain shifters and derailleurs from shimano should be compatible (at least with 105 / Tiagra). Make sure you get 9-speed shifters, however some people have luck using alternate cable routing (attach the shifter cable to the oppisite of the clamp on the rear derallieur) to use 9-speed drivetrain with 10-speed rear shifter.  Keep in mind, You can't mix and match 10-speed road gear with any of the mountain gear labeled 'Dyna-Sys' as they have modified the cable pull ratios for those components. If you need to adapt different speeds and brands, you may have luck using a compatibility solution like &lt;a href=&quot;http://jtekengineering.com/shiftmate.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jtek Shift Mate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brakes may have different cable pull ratios as well.  You likely need to swap your disc brakes for ones with compatibility with the shorter pull that is provided by road STI shifters.  Avid makes BB5 and BB7 road models which would probably work well.  You probably don't need to swap your rotors, just the calipers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want cheaper alternatives to STI levers, you can buy long pull brake levers that will work with your mountain disc brakes and use a different type of shifter like &lt;a href=&quot;http://retroshift.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Retroshift&lt;/a&gt; (which offers a long pull brake lever option) or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;9-speed Shimano Bar End Shifters&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T20:14:19.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-20T20:49:55.850" Score="8" ViewCount="119735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used road bike to commute into school each day (only about 4 miles roundtrip) and to go on casual rides for fun. I've only had it for about 3 weeks and prior to that have not had a bike since I was a kid. Anyway, I went to a bike store for the first time in this area and as I was getting a replacement tire for a flat, I was fitted. According the salesperson there, the bike I own is for a person 3&quot; taller than me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He suggested I test ride some bikes from the store and buy a new one, but I'm not able to do that right now. Is there anything I can do in the meantime to adjust the bike to better fit my body, besides buying a different bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7260" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T00:16:43.167" Title="Is it possible to make a larger bike fit a smaller person?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16335" CreationDate="2013-06-20T21:12:24.350" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I tried soaking it with WD40 and then re-lubing it with spray lithium grease.  No improvement whatsoever.  So I took it to the LBS, which declared it DOA.  They say they've seen this before with Shimano shifters.  Some internal part gets even slightly bent and the shifter fails completely.  And they're not really serviceable, so that means replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a one-month old high-end shifter.  It was never damaged or misused.  Next bike will sport SRAM or Campy components.  They use half as many parts, work just as well, and can be field serviced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So thanks for the answers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: Contrary to what I'd been told about eBay purchases, Shimano honored the warranty and replaced the shifter.  I spoke to a customer service rep about it first because I was told I needed an RMA to return it, but that's not true either.  Simply fill out the warranty form available on their web site and ship the item to them with the completed form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T01:56:51.347" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T01:56:51.347" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16352" CreationDate="2013-06-20T21:20:08.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lowering the saddle to the lowest level and see how it affects your overall position on the bike is a good start point. Coincidentally, a colleague and friend of mine has done exactly the same, and I almost thought it was you until you mentioned about school :p. Some people would stand-and-pedal, but that is not ideal to do all the time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to try is that if your saddle &lt;em&gt;slides&lt;/em&gt; front-and-back, see what position you require it to be fixed. This is to get your heap ergonomics right. I hope you have got your allen-key turner available at home :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt; Mind you that frame sizes for road bikes and MTBs vary a bit. What I mean is that the if you want to buy a road bike, the appropriate frame size for you will be slightly bigger than its MTB counterpart (e.g. 19&quot; road/hybrid bike fr == 18/17&quot; MTB fr). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in the UK, the bike shops usually have charted measurements available for you to find out the optimum height and frame size for it. It would really help us if you give further information such as what exactly is the problem that you experience with this current frame size? Bob (or whoever the guy you spoke to) might have said things to sell a bike to you, but he could very well be right about the size. Coming back to the colleague of mine's bike, it was a carrera 18&quot; MTB and his height is 5' 7&quot;. It was just about right, but he could have used a smaller frame. But when we adjusted the seat post height, it was alright although we could have used a slightly smaller bike size. If your round trip ride does not contain too much of steep hill climbing, you should be fine pedalling through. Again, it would be good to know what your height is and the size of bike frame you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try lowering your saddle first and meanwhile, let us know your height and frame size. To help you understand, I am 6' 3&quot; and have a perfect fit bike of 19&quot; frame (48 cm). I can probably do with a smaller frame, tried in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastEditorUserId="6420" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T06:21:07.937" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T06:21:07.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16352" CreationDate="2013-06-20T21:23:42.913" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of things to tide you over:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, put the seat down as far as you can. If the post can't go any lower, you might see if you can get a shorter post, or have the current post &quot;chopped&quot; to a shorter length (although that will probably cost you).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move the seat as far forward as possible. To do this, you loosen the seat from the post using a hex-wrench; move the seat up, and then tighten back up. To really get the most possible, you can even try tilting the seat forward, although this might leave you feeling like you're sliding off of the bike (this is what my wife did to fit into her antique 3-speed).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can loosen the handlebars and turn them upward, so you're not as stretched over the frame. To take it one step further, you can remove the handlebars, turn them around, and put them back on backwards (&quot;bull horn&quot; handlebars), but that will require re-taping and doing some more serious cable adjustments. It sounds like you just want to make a quick fix without too much work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, being 3&quot; too short for a bike probably isn't too bad. All of these fixes will lead to the overall fit changing. Stay on the lookout for someone who looks a tad too small for their own bike, and maybe you can engineer a trade at some point!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7118" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T21:23:42.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16347" CreationDate="2013-06-20T21:37:30.623" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popcenter.org/problems/bicycle_theft/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicycle Theft, Guide No. 52 (2008)&lt;/a&gt; gives details around bicycle theft in different variants, stages and from different perspectives, contains reference for theft data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the report:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Offenders&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all bicycles are stolen for financial gain. Some offenders may take a bicycle simply to get from one place to another, and then abandon it. Research suggests that bicycle thieves can be categorized in the following way in terms of their motivation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Joyriders&lt;/strong&gt;-those who steal any type of bicycle for transportation and/or enjoyment. These offenders generally abandon the stolen bicycle after use. Younger offenders (16 and under) typically fit this group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Acquisitive&lt;/strong&gt;-those who exploit easy opportunities to steal any type of bicycle and trade it for cash or goods (such as drugs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Volume&lt;/strong&gt;-those who steal specific types of bicycles and/or numerous bicycles to order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50 Denv. L.J. 177 (1973-1974) Marketing Theory and the Fencing of Stolen Goods; Roselius, Ted; Benton, Douglas &lt;a href=&quot;http://heinonline.org/HOL/LandingPage?collection=journals&amp;amp;handle=hein.journals/denlr50&amp;amp;div=18&amp;amp;id=&amp;amp;page=&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;(paywall!)&lt;/a&gt; -- goes down on marketing of stolen goods, and bikes are considered one of main prizes in this market (see previous link why)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1939" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T19:53:22.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16253" CreationDate="2013-06-20T23:25:38.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A statistic is a just a mathematical tool for summarizing data so as to answer a particular question (or set of questions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual definition of average speed relates time and distance, and helps to answer questions which crop up regularly in practice: &quot;how long will it take me to get home?&quot; &quot;can I make it to the café before it closes?&quot; &quot;do I need to take lights on this ride?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear to me that there are any practical questions that your statistic helps to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="756" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T23:25:38.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16360" CreationDate="2013-06-21T00:55:12.817" Score="4" ViewCount="1765" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking into buying myself a Brooks saddle, and have found two models that primarily differ in having what the descriptions call &quot;single&quot; or &quot;double&quot; rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What in the world is the difference, and why would I care? (Rhetorically: why aren't there pictures of the undersides of saddles so that I could work this out for myself?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T01:57:44.650" Title="Double vs. single saddle rails?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;rails&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16340" CreationDate="2013-06-21T01:57:10.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are differences in disc rotors: These are typically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Material - Stainless steel is the most commonly used rotor, but you can get carbon and other exotic materials, and probably (although I have not seen it myself) at the other extreme, mild steel. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Material Quality - There is stainless and then there's stainless. As with carbon. This can affect the rust resistance and strength of the disc&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Amount of material - thickness of disc as well as the amount in the center section (spokes) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Design. A disc needs to be round and flat, but within these bounds, most have holes (how much, how many and what shape varies) that allow better cooling and water sheading. There are also variations of the outer rim that are supposed to clear mud from the caliper better. The other aspect is the discs response to vibrations and harmonics, a good design is more resistant to squealing. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how does this all add up: saying a disc is &quot;just&quot; as stamped piece of stainless and they are all the same is like saying a bicycle has 2 wheels and pedals, its correct and misleading at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no doubt that there is difference between the discs on a K-mart kids bike compared to a $10K Downhill racer. The question then is &quot;how much difference&quot;. Weight is important one for many of us - but at some point the $/gram savings are not worth it. &#xA;Noise is a problem that is impossible for an individual to test for and impossible to live with squealing brakes. I don't know if price/quality makes any difference, but I do know changing to different discs can. Ability to clear mud is important to me, but not so much, if at all for others. That said, I can't be sure the shaped profiles make a difference. &#xA;The cooling issue is probably moot, as I am not aware of problems with brakes overheating (except maybe in extreme competitive environs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I have no idea how to tell if higher price is a &quot;Brand tax&quot; or a better rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="4574" LastEditDate="2013-07-18T22:48:57.790" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T22:48:57.790" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16358" CreationDate="2013-06-21T01:57:44.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A modern saddle has a single rail on each side that starts at the nose and runs to the rear of the saddle. A single or double bolt clamp attach the saddle to the seatpost. The Brooks web site show some profile images of their saddles. The images show two  rails on each side of the saddle. They merge together at the nose of the saddle. They are reputed to be the most comfortable of the Brooks line. Be aware that the images show a double clamp to attach the saddle to the seatpost. This will require an old style seat clamp (Brooks part# BYB 105) and seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T01:57:44.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-21T05:06:47.687" Score="1" ViewCount="1524" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't judge me as stupid just yet, I'm not sure if mine's a tubular or tubeless tire but everyone says tubular tires are glued to the metal wheel. However, mine isn't. It consists of a smooth, inflatable tube inside, covered by a rough, durable cover. There is absolutely no glue used so I'm pretty confused. The way it stays on the wheel is because the wheel has a rim that keeps it from falling off. If it helps, by bike is a GMC Denali with 700C wheels. Please help, I really have no idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7275" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T14:58:28.760" Title="What type of tires have tubes inside?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-21T06:05:42.410" Score="12" ViewCount="83417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Gary Fisher bike (wahoo I believe). I think it's considered the entry level Fisher mountain bike. &#xA;Could I put on disc brakes as opposed to using the standard  brakes on this bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard brakes are the rim brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;Carlos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7277" LastEditorUserId="5688" LastEditDate="2013-06-25T16:25:48.300" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T21:52:18.070" Title="How do I know whether my bike can use disk brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16348" CreationDate="2013-06-21T06:24:51.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try wikiloc.com. You can download routes from others and follow them. Me and my friend have used it with great success. It is notturn by turn like a car's gps would be, instead it draws a line over a map that marks the route to be followed, a dot that marks your current position and another line in another colour that traces your actual path. The map spins according to your travelling direction at the last few seconds, such as if the line-to-be-followed turns to the right it means you actually have to turn to the right.The app is designed to record trails in several sports from cycling to motoring, an after you upload a trail you can see it from a normal ween browser for a bigger map and elevation diagrams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T06:24:51.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16361" CreationDate="2013-06-21T07:55:20.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A normal clincher tyre will have a &quot;bead&quot; as shown in the following diagram.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZKHuQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible you have a &quot;tubalar clincher&quot; like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7B324.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of those quite look right, could you provide a photo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T07:55:20.723" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16362" CreationDate="2013-06-21T08:51:04.900" Score="12" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to check if the frame and fork support this. That is, are there a couple of holes where the disc brakes are supposed to be, like the ones in this picture: &amp;nbsp;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bFYFM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You will need to change the front and rear wheel, as your current ones probably do not have the six mounting holes for discs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may consider exchanging only the front brake, as it is generally more often used. Leaving the rear brake a V-brake will help with not adding so much weight to the bike (and expense).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="1338" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T16:05:18.843" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T16:05:18.843" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16366" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-06-21T08:55:19.287" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T08:55:19.287" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T08:55:19.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16367" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-06-21T08:55:19.287" Score="0" Body="Garmin is a company which develops and sells products relating to Global Positioning System (GPS) systems." OwnerUserId="721" LastEditorUserId="721" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T10:18:31.900" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T10:18:31.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16391" CreationDate="2013-06-21T09:52:17.683" Score="5" ViewCount="2389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need some help removing this bottom bracket. I am obviously no mechanic, and watching several videos on youtube I found nothing that could help in this specific case. Basically after removing both crank arms, I take off a plastic cup like dirt protection, and then I see this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FKeg5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after turning, looking, sniffing, pushing and tugging - I remove the strange black ring (comes of easily) and I see the bearing cage, however still cannot pull anything out..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a pic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yvM58.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody recognize this type of bracket? I must get it off because it desperately need cleaning and regreasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7106" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T12:08:38.950" Title="How can I remove the bottom bracket from this old road bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16368" CreationDate="2013-06-21T10:46:10.450" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This type of bearing is not serviceable. The plastic piece is the seal that retains the grease and keeps water and dirt out. The crank needs to be pressed out to remove the bearings. Try to tap the crank with a soft faced hammer. the bearing on the opposite side should be pushed out by the crank. Installing the new bearings will require some care. I have had good success using standard and deep sockets to drive in the new bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T10:46:10.450" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16335" CreationDate="2013-06-21T14:36:20.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For fear of repeating what others have said - I had this exact issue recently with a 2003 road bike I recently purchased which has 2x9 Ultegra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was initially fearful having read around but I managed to completely fix the problem and my shifters now work flawlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, assuming the right shifter is the problem, loosen your front brake (the thing you flick open on the calliper to allow the wheel to come off). Then squeeze the brake lever to open up the mechanism. There should be a hole on the right of the mechanism where you would insert the inner gear cable if you were installing a new one. Squirt a good amount of WD-40 or similar solvent in this hole. This could get a bit messy and drippy but don't worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, with the rear wheel raised, pedal the bike and shift all the way through the gears several times, holding the brake lever as you do to enable upshifting to smaller cogs.&#xA;If it doesn't get any better, repeat the above process several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once (if) you have improved the shifter allow the solvent to dry away by leaving it for a bit. Then finish by squirting some decent bike lube (chain lube is fine) in the same hole on the shifter. I used Finish Line dry lube, and repeat the process of shifter though the gears. You don't need to disassemble anything or remove from the bike.&#xA;Re-degrease and relube periodically to maintain smooth working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this method fails it is probably an indication that the shifter mechanism itself is worn or bent in which case I believe you need to replace it as unfortunately Shimano shifter are non-serviceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T14:36:20.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16322" CreationDate="2013-06-21T15:06:23.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They look like standard Shimano-type cartridge brakes. &lt;strike&gt;No need for new blocks, just get a set of pads.&lt;/strike&gt;&#xA;I recently got these and they are really good - far better than the standard shimano ones: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kool-stop-dura-aceultegra105-pair-of-cartridge-inserts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kool-stop-dura-aceultegra105-pair-of-cartridge-inserts/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go for the salmon if you have non-carbon rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I seems your brakes do not in fact have cartridges but the brake pad is a single piece that connects directly to the caliper arm. The dura-style cartridges (like the ones you linked to) will fit on your calipers and is a worthwhile upgrade. You will be able to more cheaply and easily replace pads and have a wider choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T15:06:23.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2013-06-21T15:19:33.987" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Front wheel quick release always on LEFT Pedal side in factorys, the tyre is put on with any arrows facing forward and to save checking we just put the quick release on left. Job was to check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7280" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T17:59:03.997" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T17:59:03.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23235" CreationDate="2013-06-21T17:30:37.203" Score="23" ViewCount="8106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to buy a touring bike soon, but in our country I cannot find any &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketoledo.net/pages/top10tourbikes.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;well known touring bike&lt;/a&gt;. I would like to buy a used one so I am going to visit some of the bicycles stores of our capital city. I am afraid I do not know how to recognize a touring bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between a touring and a speed/road bike (e.g. eyelets on the folk)? Unfortunately I have not had enough experience to classify them based on the frame geometry but if you can tell me any tips I will thank you. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6744" LastEditorUserId="6744" LastEditDate="2017-06-18T11:06:48.843" LastActivityDate="2017-06-18T11:06:48.843" Title="How do you distinguish a touring bike from a speed/road bike?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16373" CreationDate="2013-06-21T17:41:18.567" Score="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;The distinctions are often subtle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The touring bike will of course be slightly more heavily built (generally a steel frame).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The touring bike will have a longer wheelbase.  You will generally notice that the space between the seat tube and the rear wheel is fairly wide.  (The longer wheelbase serves 3 purposes:  More stable, smoother ride, better fender clearance, and better heel clearance for rear bags.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wheels will be more heavily built (at least 32 spokes and maybe even 40 on the rear), with wider rims and tires -- at least 28, maybe 35-38.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The touring bike will have eyelets on the front and rear dropouts to support racks and fenders.  (This generally means two eyelets on each side of each axle.  Plus there may be braze-ons about half way up the side of the fork for a &quot;low rider&quot; front rack.)  And at least 2, perhaps 3 sets of bottle bosses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The touring bike will have a more &quot;relaxed&quot; geometry -- higher bar height, a little less &quot;reach&quot; (shorter top tube, etc), slightly more slope and &quot;rake&quot; to the fork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The touring bike will have a wider gear range and a lower low gear, and usually not as high a high gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-09-13T04:41:36.780" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T04:41:36.780" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6212" CreationDate="2013-06-22T00:34:57.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2013 Ride For Roswell Park Cancer research hospital drew a reported 9000 riders. The hospital is located in Buffalo New York. Additionally it features a 200 rider peloton the evening before prior to opening ceremonies. The ride winds through the city from the hospital to the University of Buffalo Amherst campus covering 13.5 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7282" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2013-06-22T20:42:09.203" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T20:42:09.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16974" CreationDate="2013-06-22T01:26:47.093" Score="4" ViewCount="12901" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle chains with higher model numbers (and slightly higher prices) are often nickel-plated or half-nickel-plated. What are the benefits of nickel-plated chains over non-nickel-plated chains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How durable is the plating--does it wear off, or do its benefits last for the life of the chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T17:48:42.443" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T15:00:32.943" Title="What are the benefits of nickel-plated chains?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16376" CreationDate="2013-06-22T01:46:27.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main benefit is corrosion resistance at a slightly higher cost. Plus the near chrome like finish looks better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T01:46:27.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16308" CreationDate="2013-06-22T14:31:34.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a legal standpoint, 3 feet laws give cyclists a legal upper hand in the cases of being rear ended or sideswiped as the driver of the motorized vehicle is by default in violation of that law. In terms of your options for restitution for someone breaking that law by buzzing you with no additional laws broken (ie you didnt get creamed by the car) there are virtually none. If you're really lucky a sympathetic cop might witness the incident and write the driver a citation, but that's about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T14:31:34.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16385" CreationDate="2013-06-22T17:31:15.763" Score="3" ViewCount="2395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing the crankset and bottom bracket on my old steel frame road bike, which looks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pistescyclables.ca/bikes/VA580/card.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, so I'm guessing it's from around 1985.  I picked up a 68 mm square taper bottom bracket and found that I couldn't fit the non drive side bottom bracket cup in.  The drive side is fine, but the other one can't fit in at all, even with all the other parts removed (to ensure nothing was getting in the way).  The old one (from a cottered crank) fits in fine and rotates without problems, and there doesn't seem to be any deformation or damage.  Do I simply have the wrong part? Is the possible the part is defective? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the bottom bracket. I don't have calipers so I couldn't get a decent measurement, but the left cup seems bigger, and the pictures seems to confirm this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p26cN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2013-06-23T01:02:04.957" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T16:56:56.700" Title="Bottom bracket cup doesn't fit on non drive side" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16382" CreationDate="2013-06-22T21:00:49.050" Score="2" ViewCount="2701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a happy owner of a Surly Cross Check frame, two years old. Today I put it against a pole, but a strong wind blow made it slide along the pole and fall to the ground. As a result, there is one deep scratch--I can even see some bare steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Should I worry about the bare steel rust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Is there a product I could use to say, &quot;paint over&quot; the steel and protect it again? Surly itself suggests &quot;automotive touchup paint&quot;, but I know nothing about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6016" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T23:04:56.143" Title="repair scratches on surly frame" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16381" CreationDate="2013-06-22T23:04:56.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either find a touchup paint that closely matches (often bike shops have tons of surplus or can order one that matches), or clear coat it. Or use clear nail polish. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Or don't worry about it ;) &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As long as you're not storing the bike outside in the elements, you will reach the fatigue life of a weld somewhere on the frame before scratches will rust sufficiently to compromise its structural integrity.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And before anybody says it- yes, I know steel can be repaired. Once again, as long as the bike is being stored out of the elements you'll be able to repair welds many times over before the frame will rust through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T23:04:56.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16380" CreationDate="2013-06-23T00:15:12.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that you bought an Italian threaded bottom bracket for an English shell or vice versa?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the two scenarios above, compare the two cups of each bottom bracket to themselves (ie old to old, new to new) by placing them outside down on a flat surface. Now look at the threads. Do they pitch in the same direction or opposite? If the threads pitch in opposite directions then you have an English bottom bracket, which is more common. If they pitch in the same direction, you have an Italian bottom bracket, which is less common, but can be mistaken for English as the drive side cup has the same pitch and TPI as an English drive side cup- the width is just a little different. Here's the best ASCII diagram I can muster:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Italian drive side&#xA;||&#xA;||/////|&#xA;||/////|&#xA;||/////|&#xA;||&#xA;&#xA;Italian non drive side (same thread direction as drive side)&#xA;||&#xA;||/////|&#xA;||/////|&#xA;||/////|&#xA;||&#xA;&#xA;----------------------&#xA;&#xA;English drive side&#xA;||&#xA;||/////|&#xA;||/////|&#xA;||/////|&#xA;||&#xA;&#xA;English non drive side (opposite thread direction as drive side)&#xA;||&#xA;||\\\\\|&#xA;||\\\\\|&#xA;||\\\\\|&#xA;||&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be easy to mistake an Italian BB for an English one (or the other way around) as the drive side cup would thread in fine and the width is very similar. Once you get to the non drive side is where you would run into trouble, which matches up pretty well with the problem you described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T00:15:12.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16380" CreationDate="2013-06-23T16:56:56.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I took it back to the shop.  Turns out that something got messed up at the factory/supplier, and the left hand cups on a bunch of their English bottom brackets was actually Italian, which means they were larger and wouldn't fit.. There were able to find the proper size cup from a bottom bracket with a difference spindle length. But they opened 2 or 3 other boxes and they all had the same problem.  They were quite thankful to me to alerting them to the problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T16:56:56.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12897" CreationDate="2013-06-23T19:56:58.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard rack goes well with the 700c road tires.  I just put one on my wife's Citizen 2 with 700c tires with no issues.  The taller rack you might run into adjustment issues to make it level.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some advice though.  Loosely assemble the rack off the bike and start with the mounts by the seat post.  It is easier to bend it down for the lower mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the clearance between the rack and the tire.  Since then I have added fenders without any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJabk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T12:47:55.890" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T12:47:55.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-24T00:46:17.900" Score="3" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very good mountain bike and like to ride trails.  I recently signed up for a mini triathalon that requires a 33 mile road ride.  I don't want to buy a new bike, so I was thinking about buying a new set of rims and swapping them out for this race.  Not very experienced with converting, so looking for some help on solutions.  Don't want to spend a ton of cash on this either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7295" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T16:28:07.757" Title="Converting Mountain Bike for Road to complete in 33 mile mini triathalon" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16387" CreationDate="2013-06-24T00:55:50.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you do not go as far as different rims, consider different tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slicks (1.25&quot;) vs the regular tires (2+ inches) will make a huge difference, and usually can be found for $30 a tire or so in the US or Canada.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, remove unnecessary hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front shocks are probably the worst thing you might have on the bike.  I do not know if it is worth considering a hard fork just for this race or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T00:55:50.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16329" CreationDate="2013-06-24T07:27:59.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unable to find anything suitable in my price range, and skeptical I would find anything tough enough outside of it, I spent a day sewing, and reinforced what I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used nylon strap, 50mm x ~3m, and double folded nylon thread (so there were 4 threads per stitch) to replace the prior straps. I was able to loop the strap around a seam/strap/flashing which was just through the hole, you can see the threads looping over it. I attached the straps' ends taut to the bottom of each pannier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QYJGa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nylon strap replacements sewn onto panniers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/21KAa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Saddle Panniers mounted on bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7259" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T07:27:59.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16660" CreationDate="2013-06-24T09:38:02.647" Score="5" ViewCount="6303" Body="&lt;p&gt;My four-year-old, carbon-framed road bike has developed a case of creaky cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only hear creaking when pedalling hard, when I pedal more softly it just sounds like it has always done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the bike's age it just seems like a good idea to replace the bottom bracket. But I was wondering, once I get the old bb out, how best to prep the frame before fitting the new bb? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only changed BBs on steel frames before, where I applied some pretty thick grease quite liberally around the shell. But is approach applicable to carbon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some supplementary info: I'm riding a 2010 Giant TCR Advanced 2, with a 6700 Ultegra groupset, including hollowtech 2 cranks. I believe from the bike's spec that the bb involved is a press-fit bb, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-pressfit-bottom-bracket-with-inner-cover/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;as shown on the Wiggle site&lt;/a&gt;. Having said that I've not taken anything off yet so this is all theoretical so far - I'm going to visit my LBS later today to get the relevant preload cap removal tool, so I can have a bit of a look around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T13:18:12.630" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T19:28:45.177" Title="How should I prepare a carbon frame when I want to swap in a new bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16368" CreationDate="2013-06-24T12:08:38.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Mikes pointed out in his this bearing is not serviceable. You just replace it. In this particular case the bearings are of type: 6003 RSR. find on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/FAG-6003-2-RSR-C3-Radial-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-/300428869606&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ebay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you removed the crank arms and find yourselves looking at something like what you see in the images I posted above, you just hammer out the crank. It will take some force. Make sure you don't damage the crank - for example by protecting it with a block of wood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting back in is more difficult: you either have professional hydraulic press, or you use a guiding tube. Put one new bearing on each side of the BB - the guide tube is passing throught he middle. On one side you screw on a cap, on the other there is a two sided handle, and by turning it you pressure both bearing inside the BB. Without the guide tube and this lever you will most likely damage the frame permanently. I went to my LBS to do this, mainly because I was missing the pressing tool but also because if the frame gets minimally damaged at the edges of the BB the bearings will not fit properly. Better not to this alone and with improvised tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7106" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T12:08:38.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25514" CreationDate="2013-06-24T13:39:40.820" Score="2" ViewCount="3357" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do OnGuard MinPin Locking Skewers provide adequate security?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read one review (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/842891/onguard-minpin-keyless-3-piece-locking-skewer-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/842891/onguard-minpin-keyless-3-piece-locking-skewer-set&lt;/a&gt;) saying that the skewers can easily be defeated. Another review (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/review/R3CTA0K40XLP1K/ref=cm_cr_pr_perm?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;ASIN=B0077T7CR6&amp;amp;linkCode=&amp;amp;nodeID=&amp;amp;tag=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/review/R3CTA0K40XLP1K/ref=cm_cr_pr_perm?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;ASIN=B0077T7CR6&amp;amp;linkCode=&amp;amp;nodeID=&amp;amp;tag=&lt;/a&gt;) said the skewers could probably be either broken or defeated w/ a magnet or pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone who has used these skewers, how would you describe the security that they provide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5485" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T22:25:25.670" Title="Do OnGuard MinPin Locking Skewers provide adequate security?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;theft&gt;&lt;skewer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16405" CreationDate="2013-06-24T13:47:27.167" Score="0" ViewCount="1150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride hard-tail cross-country for recreation (Specialized Hardrock with disc brakes). Recently, my fork got damaged and now I am looking for a replacement. My current(now previous) fork has 80mm or 100mm travel, I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to make the bike &lt;strong&gt;a little bit more &quot;down-hilly&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;. I believe that this can be solved by a long-travel fork, for example 140mm. The goal is to both improve the suspension and change the geometry to compensate for the slope of the trail. However I am completely at loss as to how to select a new fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the fork travel correlate with the total length of the fork arms?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other &lt;strong&gt;characteristics are important&lt;/strong&gt;? There is significant variation in prices, although the longer travel seems to cost more. My target price is about $220   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T22:04:23.040" Title="Choosing a long-travel cross-country fork" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16395" CreationDate="2013-06-24T14:07:09.913" Score="10" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably a silly question but my curiosity has bubbled over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride mountain bike trails around 5-6 times a week and generally I will see turtles &lt;strong&gt;on the trail&lt;/strong&gt; 2-4 times. Sometimes I even see 2 or 3 turtles in one ride. I wonder if anyone else experiences this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are always right in the middle of the trail just chilling, out of their shell. I usually move them off of the trail out of fear of seeing a smashed up turtle on the ride back. I am not sure if location matters, but I ride in and around West Alabama. The trails I see them on are generally very dry and rocky. Also, I have noticed that most of them are not in direct sunlight when sitting on the trail. The canopy is usually pretty thick so, (I assume) there is not much difference in the location other than the debris (leaves, pine straw, etc) being more cleared on the trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know specifically what kind of turtles these are but they all seem to be alike in size and shell pattern. Here are some pictures of a few that I have seen. Please excuse the bad quality:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/dJDeWbm.jpg?1&quot; alt=&quot;Turtle 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/TMeyqE0.jpg?1&quot; alt=&quot;Turtle 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/WQ1HHAV.jpg?1&quot; alt=&quot;Turtle 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Question: &lt;strong&gt;Why do turtles sit in the middle of bike trails and should I be moving them off the trail?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7116" LastEditorUserId="7116" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T14:40:00.730" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T04:02:40.523" Title="Turtles on Trails" Tags="&lt;trails&gt;&lt;animals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16394" CreationDate="2013-06-24T14:49:19.260" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;All through my childhood I observed land turtles - more than half of the garden was turtle territory. The reasons for this behavior that immediately spring to mind are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Being cold blooded animals they rely very much on sunlight and warm temperatures during the day to be active. So (like lizards and snakes), they like to chill out in all those places where there is no shade. Rocky grounds are preferred because they are great heat reflectors. So an open rocky path is a great choice for them, because no plants grow there to cast a shadow. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Females travel long distances to lay eggs. Males travel long distances to deploy semen. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You will not be the first person passing through there, so you can expect the turtles to be fed once in a while by tourists. It is natural for them to check on the point of feeding often, hoping for some more. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some turtles eat all kinds of things you offer them, and it's neither good nor necessary. One example is meat. Once I observed one of our turtles eat a mouse our cat had killed and left around. We had to separate the turtle for a long time from the others because it would bite everything that moved (including me). Once they taste treats they will hang around desperate for more.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should you move them?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You definitely should! Even though they can take quite a hit and throw the cyclist down. He is probably in bigger danger than the turtle depending on the velocity - but if we can avoid both risks of injury, lets to that (btw I find it great that you are concerned about this issue - kudos to you!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to know that moving turtles is an extremely intense experience for them. My mother would tell us to pick them up slowly, and put them back where they were, always move them in the direction that they were looking/walking. If they wandered around for a while, they will be lost if you put them down farther down the path! It's what my mother would patiently explain. I know she read a lot of books about land turtles. She bread successfully on multiple occasions, so she must know her stuff. Her oldest turtle is over 70 by now. You can read more about helping turtles across roads(bicycle/highway/other) here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mnherpsoc.com/sites/default/files/HelpATurtle_web_20110914.pdf&quot;&gt;HELP a turtle&lt;/a&gt;. It's from the Minnesota Herpetological Society, and I judge it as reliable source. It also confirms what I remember. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7106" LastEditorUserId="7106" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T16:46:44.120" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T16:46:44.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3269" CreationDate="2013-06-24T14:51:45.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It happened to me twice in my first month of riding with SPDs. The first time was my first day out and was when a car stopped suddenly in front of me. I just wasn't ready. The second time was after I had become used to being clipped in and confident in my ability to get out quickly but I had a problem changing down the gears on a steep climb and came to a sudden halt. This time I WAS ready but still went over. Here's some advice that would have saved me both times:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get one foot out and put that foot down, making sure you lean towards that side!&lt;/strong&gt;  It's of no use waving in the air as you fall towards your clipped-in side! I now try to think of my left leg as a bike stand. I'm sure I'll get caught out again at some point but the benefits of riding with SPDs make it worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7297" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T14:51:45.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15024" CreationDate="2013-06-24T15:25:15.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are not cheap ($130 front &amp;amp; rear), but Campagnolo makes a lateral pull TT brake that mounts on the center post:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0057P8SFM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Campagnolo-TT-Brake-Front-Lateral/dp/B0057P8SFM/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, wouldn't it be easier to mount side-pull caliper brakes? You can buy a pair of good-quality dual pivot side-pull calipers for $40-$60, and they will just mount on the single-bolt brake bridge you already have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7298" LastEditorUserId="7298" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T15:31:18.807" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T15:31:18.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16400" CreationDate="2013-06-24T16:18:19.410" Score="6" ViewCount="19209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which strategy is better for learning to ride fixed gear, if you're already comfortable with clipless pedals: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat pedals at first, clipless after you're comfortable with being unable to coast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learning to ride clipless from the start, probably with the tension turned way down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just got a fixed gear bike, which I plan to practice riding in a park for a while before using it as a commuter. I usually ride with clipless pedals, and I gather from questions on SE as well as other sources, that foot retention is quite important on a fixed gear as well. Thus, eventually, I would want to ride that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2019-05-18T07:48:58.490" Title="Learning to ride fixed gear: Clipless or not?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16399" CreationDate="2013-06-24T17:18:57.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem in starting to ride fixed is that my brain would forget I was riding fixed, I'd come across a decent stretch of road (or a corner), and would attempt to coast. All totally subconsciously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With flat pedals, provided I was doing a decent enough speed/cadence, I'd end up having to take my feet off the pedals until such time as I'd slowed the bike enough to get my feet back on and essentially regain control of the bike. Timeframe possibly 10 seconds during which the only real control I had was to steer and brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In clipless pedals, however, because my feet are attached to the pedals, as soon as my brain says &quot;coast&quot;, my feet say &quot;whoaaaaa&quot;. My brain then kicks back in and because I am still attached to the pedals I can just recover, easy as. And the timeframe here is just a fraction of a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for my money, and assuming you do have a traffic-free environment in which to hone your skills, I'd go clipless straight away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In traffic, I prefer flat pedals, just because I might want to put my foot down, like, &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt;. But this of course is a preference thing rather than a technique thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;btw, even though I've had a fixie for a couple of years now I still fall into this trap. Right now I'm probably only getting the fixie out once a month (compared to riding geared bikes several times per week), so there's an element of readjustment every time I take it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T17:18:57.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16413" CreationDate="2013-06-24T17:22:20.103" Score="2" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to remove rust from some old parts such as cassette, bolts, and nuts.  Most of the rust is just surface rust, and I would think there would be a good technique for doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides using steel wool, I have heard of either using &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrasonic_cleaning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ultra-sonic washer&lt;/a&gt; or an acid bath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to accomplish this?  I would prefer to stay away from chemicals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T12:32:48.610" Title="How to remove rust from unpainted parts?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7769" CreationDate="2013-06-24T18:43:11.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in Chicago and I was just chatting with a friend about how the city is getting a bike share program soon and how many accidents will likely occur due to inexperienced cyclists in the streets.  And of course talking about bike accidents leads to door accidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think about what I'd do if a door flew open in front of me every time I ride past parked cars.  First, I try to ride at least a door's length away from the cars so I can have time to avoid it.  I also look through the back windshield and sideview mirror of every car I pass - if there's someone in there, I slow down and/or distance myself farther.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however you can't and the door flies open (either wide open or more open than not), then this has been my idea - don't slow down, prepare to put your shoulder into the part of the door farthest from the hinge, and basically try to break the door off.  Crazy as it sounds, the point (I think) is it's likely better than slowing down and then effectively hitting a wall.  The farther away from the hinge you hit the door, the more likely the door will give and take some of the impact, and if you break the door off, you'll be hitting the ground with less force than if you just flew off your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should say that I play hockey, so I have the instinct of wanting to propel myself through something (or someone), and well, if you're going to hit something, commit and brace yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?  Totally absolutely crazy?  Or do I make a little sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7302" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T18:43:11.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16412" CreationDate="2013-06-24T19:22:47.867" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cannondale MTB frame I'd like to make a cruzer by adding a Sturmey Archer 2-speed kick shift. The SA axel length is 162mm and the spacing is 116mm but the Cannondale spacing is 135mm (remember this is an aluminum frame so it's not flexible). This doesn't leave a lot of room for the nut! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind as long as I can get the chain rings to line up and tighten the bolts I should be good!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7303" LastEditorUserId="7303" LastEditDate="2013-06-29T15:46:26.160" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T00:36:57.197" Title="What advise for using spacers on MTB rear forkend" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16393" CreationDate="2013-06-24T21:17:00.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Longer travel will change the bikes geometry. A 140mm travel fork has 60mm more travel, therefore needs 60mm more clearance. To get this, you need a smaller wheel or longer forks. Presuming you are sticking to the same wheels, you have to raise the sheerer height. The effect of this is a more relaxed sheerer angle - changing the handling for the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would not do it. The Hardrock is not a down hill bike, and never will be. With your target price, as you have observed - you get a lower travel higher quality fork.  This would be far better. The fork will be stiffer and more robust, probably lighter and likely to be more adjustable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation, I would put on the highest quality shock I could afford, and forget about increasing travel. I recommend 100mm to 120mm max. A well setup better quality short travel fork will walk all over a cheap long travel fork on all but the most extreme DH rides, and the compromise when not on those extreme DH rides is, well, extreme......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T22:04:23.040" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T22:04:23.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16387" CreationDate="2013-06-24T21:30:27.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would absolutely go along with @geoffc's answer re tyres. I'm suspecting that's what you really meant to type when you said &quot;rims&quot;? But anyways...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd just add that it might be worth trying out some aero bars too, you can get ones that will just clamp on to your current bar. Might be worth seeing if you could borrow some first as they are very much an acquired taste, but you can imagine they'd improve your position on the bike if you can get on with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T21:36:57.353" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T21:36:57.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16399" CreationDate="2013-06-24T23:02:38.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think clipless pedals are definitely the way to go. With the pedals always moving under your feet, it's even more important to have your feet firmly attached as it's too easy to lose contact with the pedals otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the first time I ride it after having ridden freewheels for a while I'll forget once or twice and get a bit of a jolt through my trailing leg to remind me to keep those pedals spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#pedals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sometimes, novice fixed-gear riders will try to use plain pedals with no form of retention system. I strongly advise against this. Riding fixed with plain pedals is an advanced fixed-gear skill, only recommended for experienced fixed-gear riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T23:02:38.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16392" CreationDate="2013-06-25T00:36:05.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used them myself, but I've been asked to remove a broken set. A customer came back to their bike and discovered that a thief had tried to force them and failed. But not before breaking both front and rear lever mechanisms. I got both off without damaging the rest of the bike at all, with a cutting disk in the grinder they come off in seconds. Anyone can buy a battery grinder for $99 and youtube has a collection of &quot;bike thief being ignored&quot; videos so I'd rate these as &quot;casual thief&quot; resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the &quot;locked&quot; mode is exactly like the &quot;stuck&quot; mode of a normal set of QR skewers. Unless someone knows that they're the special locking ones they'll just apply more and more force until something breaks. So every time you take it into the bike shop or put it on a vehicle you will need to attach a note to the bike to that effect. I hope they come with stickers or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you're looking at spending money at all, I suggest something more effective. A  set of Pitlocks cost about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/pitlock.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$105 from Peter White (US)&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://pitlock.de/en/to-the-shop/complete-sets/set-02/set-02---disk.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;95 euro from pitlock.de&lt;/a&gt;. And they're made from hard stainless steel so a cheap battery grinder will take a long time to grind one off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T00:36:05.123" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16409" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-25T00:39:41.157" Score="1" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering. I live in the OC by the way. I like to ride against traffic because it makes me nervous otherwise. I grew up in Brooklyn and there they tell us to ride facing traffic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7304" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T23:13:12.833" Title="Is it legal for me to ride facing traffic on the sidewalk in California?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-25T01:05:23.187" Score="4" ViewCount="1161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of installing my Shimano Tiagra left shifter for the front derailleur on my double crank and I'm a bit confused, the indicator shows it has 5 positions for a crank with only 2 chainrings (double), when using common sense says it should only have 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Shimano-Tiagra-2x9-STI-shifter-brake-levers-/300924155393?pt=US_Shifters&amp;amp;hash=item46107a3601&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Shimano-Tiagra-2x9-STI-shifter-brake-levers-/300924155393?pt=US_Shifters&amp;amp;hash=item46107a3601&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depressing the large lever one click from the inner ring should put the front derailleur into the trim position, and depressing the large lever a full two click puts the chain onto the outer ring. Shouldn't that be it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7296" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T23:44:22.380" Title="My left STI shifter has 5 positions for a double crankset?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16404" CreationDate="2013-06-25T02:40:30.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has a good page on frame adjustment - I especially refer you to his instructions on aluminum (and carbon) frames - DON'T &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you can get the nuts on far enough that axle thread is visible, you will be OK, however, at 13mm for the frame, washer and nut, I will be surprised. You might be tempted to use a smaller spacer and compress the frame. I have no idea how much would be consider too much - 1, 2 5mm? I would have a guess 1 or 2 is fine, but 5 might be pushing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to get the chain line correct by changing spacers, however it might also mean redishing the wheel.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you plan to adjust the chain tension. Are the dropouts on the frame horizontal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-07-01T00:36:57.197" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T00:36:57.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16401" CreationDate="2013-06-25T03:27:27.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to remove rust from steel or cast iron is by electrolysis, period!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the links below, but a few points need to be emphasized first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO wear rubber, latex or other waterproof gloves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO wear old clothes, cuz the solution will stain just about anything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DON'T put the solution where it can be kicked or spilled, it will leave a killer stain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DON'T hook up what you are removing the rust off to the positive (+) terminal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And most critically important &lt;strong&gt;DON'T USE STAINLESS STEEL AS THE ANODE (+ electrode)!!!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, now to the links that explain the method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/miscellaneous/rust_removal.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/miscellaneous/rust_removal.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few suggestions.  Use no more than 6 volts, particularly if you don't want to remove paint.  Use washing soda (sodium carbonate, aka NaCO3) as the ingredient, not salt or lye.  Small quantities of NaCO3 can be made by heating baking soda spread on a cookie sheet for 300 degrees F (150C) for about 1 hr.&#xA;Don't pour the old liquid on your lawn or garden, the sodium could damage the soil.  The solution is safe to pour down a laundry or basement drain, but be sure to wash out the drain afterwards.&#xA;At most only 1 tbsp per gallon NaCO3 is needed - using more is just a waste.&#xA;If you use an old wall-wart, the negative is usually the wire bearing a white line or bead on it and is usually hooked to the outside ring on the outlet plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7305" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T03:27:27.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16394" CreationDate="2013-06-25T04:02:40.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the &quot;duh&quot; answer...  Turtles use the trail for the exact same reason you do, which is because it is the easiest place to walk (duh!).  This is particularly true of turtles because their short legs makes walking on a smooth, hard trail easier than wading through loose leaf litter, climbing over downed tree limbs, rocks, etc. I know this because I walk and drive in the forest and range lands every day - I have seen turtles, snakes, deer, cows, skunks, racoons, and even a mountain lion walking on trails and roads.  Again, they are just plain easier to get around on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7305" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T04:02:40.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6794" CreationDate="2013-06-25T04:45:16.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, chain repair tool.  But I will disagree with Moab's comment. &#xA;Though it is hard to judge from the angle of the pictures, this chain tool looks a little weird.  On most chain tools one of the two ridges (usually the upper one closest to the handle or screw) is thicker than the other.  This is because the chain is set on the upper ridge to loosen a stiff link once the pin has been pushed into place with the chain link sitting on the lower ridge.  The below utube video is a good lesson on using a chain tool to repair a chain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/OOKDdWPPE4Q?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing not emphasized on the video that should be.  When breaking the chain in two, leave the pin sticking up just half a millimeter or so under the roller (you will have to GENTLY twist chain to pull it apart) - this makes it easy to insure that the chain will be properly aligned when the new pin is pushed down.  Also, it is best only to only break a chain at a particular pin only once - if you do it more than once, that pin will enlarge the hole and never fit snugly together again.  Shimano recommends that pins on their chains should never be re-used. however, YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The practical way to tell if it is the right size tool for your chain is fairly simple.  Set a chain link with the lower ridge in between two rollers (the cylindrical part of the chain).  The chain should fot easily, but straight with a minimal of wiggle, so that the chain does not twist or bend when the screw is turned and the pin is pushed downward. If you have any difficulty at all keeping the chain straight and at a perfect right (perpendicular) angle to the pin when the pin is being pushed down, it is the wrong size tool, the tool is designed for a newer, narrower chain than yours.  If the chain does not easily fit onto the ridge, don't force it.  In this case most likely you are probably trying to put a newer narrow chain (9 or 10 sprockets on the rear wheel of the bike) on a tool made back in the day when chains were 8, 7, 6 or (if you are a really old) 5 sprockets on the rear wheel were standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7305" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T04:45:16.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16376" CreationDate="2013-06-25T04:59:19.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated above, the main reason for nickel plating is to stop rust.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would only want the nickel on the outside surface of the chain.  The reason is some modern nickel plating (though I admit I don't know if this is the case with bicycle chains) is harder than steel and so would wear the sprocket and chain-ring faster if the plating is on the inside of the links.  I would rather wear out an inexpensive and easier to replace KMC chain than a pricey 10 speed Shimano XTR cassette!  Kinda like on my old TV how I would prefer it not to blow a $200 picture tube (back when $200 was a lot of money) to protect a 10 cent fuse!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7305" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T04:59:19.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16362" CreationDate="2013-06-25T06:04:23.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless your wahoo is really old, it will probably be disc compatible.  The frame can look a little different than Vorak's and still be disc compatible.  My blue 05 wahoo looks a little different and is ISO disc compatible (see pic), the two big holes are about 50mm apart.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcaiF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear fork on 2005 GF wahoo&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my 1998? purple/yellow GF Hoo-Koo-E-Koo has the older Hayes compatible mount.  The HKEK has smaller holes (again, the two holes farthest apart) are about 44mm (1.75in) apart. See 2nd pic.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IuTCp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1998? Hoo Koo E Koo&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know if there is an adapter to convert Hayes mount to fit newer ISO brakes.&#xA;But I do wish I had gotten disc brakes on my 05 wahoo, because one of the original WTB dual-duty rims was defective, causing the bike to shudder when brakes were applied.  When purchasing the new, but 1yr old bike, the store owner wrongly said it was just oil on the rims.  After closer more careful inspection at home, it became apparent that the wheel was&#xA;defective, with the rim sides not parallel - I checked it with a good dial caliper.  I went to a different LBS and they told me after a bit of investigation that this was a &amp;quot;silent&amp;quot; (better called secret if you ask me) recall by GF.  The LBS repaired it, but in talking with the service manager, he told me that GF only reimbursed them for the replacement rim, but not for the labor to rebuild the rim.  So now I am loyal to the 2nd store and I tell my friends about how good they were to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7305" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T06:04:23.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-25T07:23:09.967" Score="2" ViewCount="692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have learned that the first couple of letters on a stamped Shimano part mean the part type e.g. &lt;em&gt;FD - front derailleur&lt;/em&gt;, and the first digit indicates the series e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M960 XTR/DCL 9s&#xA;M950 XTR 9s&#xA;M900 XTR 8s&#xA;M800 Saint 9s&#xA;M760 DeoreXT/DCL 9s&#xA;M750 DeoreXT 9s&#xA;M740 DeoreXT 8s&#xA;M700 DeoreXT 7s&#xA;M630 DeoreDX 7s&#xA;M580 DeoreLX/DCL 9s&#xA;M570 DeoreLX 9s&#xA;M560 DeoreLX 8s&#xA;M550 DeoreLX 7s&#xA;M520 Deore 9s&#xA;M510 Deore 8s&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I look at a couple of bikes, there is nothing similar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FC-M191 is an Alivio crank arm, while the &quot;1&quot; should have indicated a &lt;em&gt;Tourney&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ST-EK70 and SL-M310 - those are both shifters, the first one with integrated brake lever. Why are the first two letters different? What is &quot;EK&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CS-HG30-8I - cogset marking - wtf!?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I would appreciate a .pdf Shimano catalogue, the paper version of hich I have seen at the LBS. Alternatively, explaination about my listed parts would also be an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T06:34:31.850" Title="Confusion regarding the Shimano numering system" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-25T09:43:59.083" Score="11" ViewCount="1760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to move further away from work, so my 5.5 mile commute is going up to 12 miles (24 there and back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not interested in using an elecrtic bike because I can't be bothered to pedal.. I want to use an electric bike to speed up my commute to work and back. I estimate that on my racing bike it'll take me approximately 45 mins to get to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I got an electric bike, is it possible to use the motor to &lt;em&gt;assist&lt;/em&gt; me rather than do all the work? If so, what sort of time saving do you think is possible? Do they offer much oomph?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my eye on one of the giant electric commuter bikes but I don't really know what to look for. I'm not sure yet if there's actually going to be any speed advantage hence I'm asking :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: 3 years later, I never did buy an e-bike. I stuck with my road bike and just powered on through. I can now average 20mph if I feel that way inclined. I'm also the fittest I've ever been so I think all in all e-bikes aren't for the likes of me. I did however buy a new, faster road bike but the real speed comes from stronger legs/mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;: I did get an ebike in the end! A cyclotricity 1000w stealth. It saves about 45 minutes as there's no need to have a shower at the end of the ride and it's faster. It's good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastEditorUserId="1358" LastEditDate="2019-03-08T08:48:32.407" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T08:48:32.407" Title="Hybrid electric bikes, how do they work?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16421" CreationDate="2013-06-25T11:26:06.350" Score="1" ViewCount="2091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my mountain bike for trail riding (a few hours on weekends) and for commuting (20-50 minutes each day), on paved or dirt roads (I have 2 different routes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to replace the grips on my handlebars (because my existing ones are getting too old). I would like to understand which grips fit the very different styles of riding I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current thinking is like this: I can do the commuting without gloves, to minimize the equipment I mess up with on daily basis, – and then I need smooth grips, which probably are a bit worse for trails. I can choose to always ride with gloves, and then I can get deeply-grooved grips (that would be better for trail riding?). Which important factors do I miss here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used ergonomic grips in the past, like in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jtcycles.com.au/images/product-images-large/2550-1075%20-1_lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; picture; didn't like them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T07:54:28.813" Title="How to choose grips for trail riding AND commuting?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;grips&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16420" CreationDate="2013-06-25T12:23:39.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grips:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Deeply grooved grips will not really compromise your commuting ability, but smooth grips will give you troubles off road when it's wet and muddy. Get something that works for you off road in bad conditions, where you need it most. You will have no troubles commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gloves:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Garden shops sell from heavy duty to light weight fabric/leather protective gloves. Check them out. Cost basically nothing because they are no-name products, but still keep you safe and protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7106" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T12:23:39.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16420" CreationDate="2013-06-25T12:34:57.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ourygrips.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oury Mountain Grips&lt;/a&gt; on my mountain bike and my city bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a cheaper slide on version (about $10-12 USD) and a lock on version ($ about $30 USD) which I prefer.  The lock on version avoids the 'slippy grip' issues you sometimes have when water eeks under the edge of the grip and it slips on the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These grips are smooth and cushy enough to wear without gloves and are good and sticky when used with gloves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iSVEB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T12:34:57.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16419" CreationDate="2013-06-25T12:36:32.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The class of bike you're looking at is called an Electrically Assisted Pedal Cycle, a brief summary of the law regulating these is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/electric-bikes-and-the-law-29969/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. In the UK (and Europe):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maximum power is 250w&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maximum assisted speed is 25 km/h (15.6 mph)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need insurance, a driving license, Vehicle Excise Duty or a helmet to ride an Electrically Assisted Pedal Cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible to get electric bikes with more power and / or a higher speed limit. These would be classified as a moped and would need insurance, driving license, etc. You also couldn't ride them in cycle lanes and cycle paths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Electrically Assisted Pedal Cycles come with an &quot;off-road&quot; mode which removes the speed limit. The linked article describes the legality of these as &quot;&lt;em&gt;at best, questionable&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T12:36:32.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16409" CreationDate="2013-06-25T12:40:26.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're on the sidewalk, and it's legal to ride on the sidewalk in your area, then it should be ok to ride facing or against traffic while on the sidewalk.  However, If you get off the sidewalk and on to the road, then you must ride with traffic because YOU ARE TRAFFIC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T12:40:26.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15949" CreationDate="2013-06-25T13:44:54.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Further to Tom77, many of the junctions round here don't have a (usable*) advance stop area, and have pretty poor road surfaces in the junction itself.  Getting an early start (by which I mean using eyes and ears and going only when I personally feel it is safe) gives you time to clear the &lt;em&gt;potholes&lt;/em&gt; in the junction - by going round them.  Starting on green (even with an advance stop box) can mean you're forced through the guts of the hole.  I say this as someone who doesn't &lt;em&gt;run&lt;/em&gt; red lights - I don't feel I have time to make a good judgement in that case - but &lt;em&gt;sneaking&lt;/em&gt; them is a different matter, IMO it's often safer, and lets the cars get away quicker as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The stop box may be unreachable due to a bike lane that's always full of wing mirrors because it and the whole road are too narrow, or may always be full of cars so you can't even stick out of the front of it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T13:44:54.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16426" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-25T16:00:26.200" Score="2" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on going cycle touring and I was wondering if anyone can advise as to how much it will cost per month&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2013-08-17T09:31:25.450" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T09:31:25.450" Title="How much on average does it cost per month to go cycle touring in India?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-06-26T21:55:52.280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16439" CreationDate="2013-06-25T16:03:13.320" Score="3" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a cycle tour that will pass through some areas where I know there will be plenty of access to food and some areas that will be away from food for a day or two. I am going to Turkey, Georgia, cycling down through Azerbaijan, Armenia and Iran. I envisage that food will be easily available in Turkey, Georgia especially in towns but less so in remoter parts of Iran as my route will go through some of the lesser populated areas.&#xA;Any advice appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T23:37:48.140" Title="How much food should I carry cycle touring and what factors affect this?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16429" CreationDate="2013-06-25T16:13:44.430" Score="13" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in riding to work on a daily basis, do the physiological benefits gained from cycling to work get outweighed by the harm that pollution does to the body? I.e. does it cause more harm that it prevents.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that when riding to work, I am breathing harder and riding with the daily traffic, so exposing myself potentially to higher levels of pollution than I would riding on a weekend day or away from heavy traffic.  This has the potential for causing respiratory issues, especially in Arizona where dust particles can cause irritation.  Does this concern negate the positive benefits such as increased respiratory capacity, reduced blood pressure, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T16:39:38.703" Title="Do the benefits from Cycling outweigh the harm of pollution" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;pollution&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16428" CreationDate="2013-06-25T16:39:38.703" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2920084/&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2920084/&lt;/a&gt; - &quot;On average, the estimated health benefits of cycling were substantially larger than the risks relative to car driving for individuals shifting their mode of transport.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22124913&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22124913&lt;/a&gt; - &quot;We estimate that beneficial effects of increased physical activity are substantially larger (3-14 months gained) than the potential mortality effect of increased inhaled air pollution doses (0.8-40 days lost) and the increase in traffic accidents (5-9 days lost).&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21816732&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21816732&lt;/a&gt; - &quot;Public bicycle sharing initiatives such as Bicing in Barcelona have greater benefits than risks to health&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Maybe your Arizona dust is an exception though. And dust masks do make it harder to breathe hard comfortably.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T16:39:38.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15928" CreationDate="2013-06-25T16:40:11.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;SRAM's website has no detail on its products, and online retailers give conflicting information about the PC-850. I contacted SRAM (who, like Shimano, is extraordinarily reluctant to answer paying customers' questions online) and got the following response:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thanks for your email. I apologize for the lack of response, but this is not a&#xA;  frequently checked email address. Our website and your local bike shop are the&#xA;  quickest ways to find information on SRAM products. The PC 850 is listed as an 8&#xA;  speed chain on our website because it was developed for, and tested with, 8 speed&#xA;  drivetrains. However, since it's only about a tenth of a millimeter thinner than&#xA;  many standard 6 and 7 speed chains, it tends to be sold as an effective 6 or 7&#xA;  speed chain as well. While it's not something we test, it's pretty common practice, as there are very few 6 and 7 speed chain options out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it sounds like you should be fine using this chain with a 6 or 7 speed drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T16:40:11.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16409" CreationDate="2013-06-25T17:08:57.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;California law on this is somewhat complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, though: your intuition and childhood bicycle safety lesson is wrong. It's safer to ride with traffic on the road than on the sidewalk. Cyclists being hit from behind is very rare, but being hit by cars at intersections or driveways is much more common, and the sidewalk puts you at much greater risk of that kind of collision. The advice you had about riding against traffic is &lt;em&gt;bad advice&lt;/em&gt; that's only valid for people walking 4 miles per hour along the side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In California, it's legal to ride on the sidewalk, but individual jurisdictions (counties or cities) can make it illegal. It's not uncommon for a city to make it illegal to bike on the sidewalk in a downtown area, but leave it legal in residential neighborhoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, the legality question is local to Orange County, the specific city you're riding in, and possibly even the specific area of the city you're riding in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/cgi-bin/displaycode?section=veh&amp;amp;group=21001-22000&amp;amp;file=21200-21212&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CVC 21206&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This chapter does not prevent local authorities, by&#xA;  ordinance, from regulating the registration of bicycles and the&#xA;  parking and operation of bicycles on pedestrian or bicycle&#xA;  facilities, provided such regulation is not in conflict with the&#xA;  provisions of this code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T17:08:57.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-25T18:27:15.213" Score="1" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fairly straightforward question the answer to which I presume depends upon ride distance, terrain, bike type, and bag weight, but I'm hoping there's a rule of thumb that generally applies to all scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question dawned on me as I was mounting a Citi Bike last night:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I keep my messenger bag (weighing about 15 lbs.) strapped to my back, or should I secure it in &lt;a href=&quot;http://citibikenyc.com/meet-the-bike/#module-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the &quot;protective rack&quot;&lt;/a&gt; attached to the handlebars?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking at the time: The bag would fit perfectly, but it would weigh down the front of the bike and make it more difficult to steer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opted to keep the bag strapped to my back, but this decision was based on 100% conjecture. I have little to no experience riding with belongings in a handlebar basket. On the other hand, I very often ride with a heavy messenger bag. It's habit at this point, and maybe a bad one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ride proved uneventful, though I can report that it isn't exactly easy riding the incline of the Williamsburg Bridge while wearing a full messenger bag on a 45 lbs Citi Bike. Would the ride have been any easier if I had put my bag in the handlebar basket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1835" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T19:41:51.003" Title="Messenger bag or handlebar basket?" Tags="&lt;messenger-bags&gt;&lt;citi-bike&gt;&lt;basket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16432" CreationDate="2013-06-25T18:52:47.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you strap it to your back ONLY if it is not distracting you when cycling. What I mean by distracting is the back sliding left or right and making you feel that it is moving around your body. This could be an annoying factor for just anybody. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have this issue, try to fasten it around the protective rail at the front. Citi bikes are reasonably sturdy, so the weight distribution would not be affected I hope. We have similar bikes in London and I am sure I have seen people doing both; bags strapped around the body and fastened securely around the front area (where the protective rail is). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not just try it? I would certainly do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Make sure you secure it properly if placed around the protective rails at the front. You don't want your bag to be accidentally slipping away on a main road during rush hour, especially if you have a laptop or PDA inside :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T18:52:47.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16401" CreationDate="2013-06-25T19:17:10.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple trick that works to remove thin rust is to rub the rusty part with aluminum foil. It works with steel parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4965" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T19:17:10.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16432" CreationDate="2013-06-25T20:36:52.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bikeshare bikes are beasts, and their geometry (long wheelbases, particularly) is such that I wouldn't think 15 pounds in front appreciably changes the steering. My concern -- the picture isn't clear on this point -- is whether the bag can be secured in place so that it doesn't slide out. My messenger bag sometimes gets loaded unevenly (books!), which could increase the chances it would fall out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat is another consideration, especially given that hill. Messenger bags on your back hold in the heat! Hill might not be any harder that way, but it'll likely FEEL sweatier and more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T20:36:52.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14990" CreationDate="2013-06-25T21:54:17.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the ROTOR FAQ - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/support.html&quot;&gt;http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/support.html&lt;/a&gt; - the recommended orientation of the chainring maximizes the effective chainring diameter at the point of maximum power (consistent with theory 1 in Daniel Hicks response). Contrary to Daniel Hicks reply, theory 1 requires the longer axis of the ellipse/oval to be PERPENDICULAR to the cranks rather than parallel. The effective diameter at any point in the pedal stroke is at the point where the chain wraps onto the chainring at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They claim that this happens at just past 3 o'clock. They actually vary this slightly for the inner and outer rings, based on the notion that that varies a bit when you're climbing, presumably in the smaller inner chainring. This is what the default starting position (position 3 in their setup) sets as the peak:&#xA;18º for the 53t (outer ring); 23º for the 40t (inner ring)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is degrees past horizontal/3 o'clock. Rotor chainrings allow you to vary this in 5º to whatever you want. So you could more or less recreate the biopace effect, putting the peak closer to 6 o'clock if you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rotor does encourage riders to adjust that based on their riding position and their pedal dynamics within a 8º-33º range. The recommended starting point for triathletes/time trialers sitting way forward in the saddle moves the peak position down by another 5º for both chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, as noted, you could mount a Biopace ring 72º or 144º off how it is &quot;supposed&quot; to be mounted and achieve something like the Rotor Q-ring effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been some studies based on actual comparisons of power output. Studies for a 1K time trial show about a 3% increase in average power with Rotor rings. Another study for a 10K time trial with the same Rotor rings show improvement for some of the test subjects, but overall, no significant improvement. There is another study that does computer modeling of muscles and force through the pedal stroke that concludes that the &quot;optimal&quot; shape is like the Rotor ring but with higher eccentricity. They conclude that increasing the effective gearing where you are able to generate more force increases the average power output by increasing the time you spend in your high force zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practically speaking, I am now experimenting with the combination of an outer 53T Q-ring mounted in position 3 (18º peak) and a rotated Biopace inner 42T ring. The inner ring puts the peak closer to a 10º peak (again, angle measured down from horizontal), but it's not easy to compare directly as the shapes are different. The biopace ring has a broader zone that stays at the larger diameter and then the transition to a smaller diameter is quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that both were pretty easy to get used to compared to a round ring and that the effect is relatively subtle. With both, I find that it does seem easier to maintain a smooth pedal stroke all the way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7310" LastEditorUserId="7310" LastEditDate="2013-06-25T22:03:58.337" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T22:03:58.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16387" CreationDate="2013-06-25T22:28:02.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If possible, just rent a road bike. Even though you can make a mountain bike more comfortable for road riding, the frame itself is completely different in terms of both geometry and weight. You'll be a lot happier if, instead of spending a bunch of time and money messing with your mountain bike to make it not horrible on the pavement you instead spend about the same amount and just rent a road bike for the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7311" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-06-26T16:28:07.757" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T16:28:07.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16427" CreationDate="2013-06-25T22:44:21.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how you ride, for how long and your body weight. Check out this page here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ausport.gov.au/ais/nutrition/factsheets/basics/carbohydrate__how_much&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ausport.gov.au/ais/nutrition/factsheets/basics/carbohydrate__how_much&lt;/a&gt;. The main fuel is carbohydrate and fat, though usually people have enough fat or get much fat from food anyway, so people only focus on carbohydrate needs. Drink a lot of water too to help digesting those carbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protein is needed for recovery, so take them after ride. They are fulfilling but can't be converted easily to energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T22:44:21.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16427" CreationDate="2013-06-25T23:37:48.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fear that the only useful answer is also the trivial one: you need one days food for every day between food supplies. Eat whatever you can get, and as much of it as you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My practice on longer tours is to have a &quot;standard days food&quot; made up of long-lasting items. Usually rice with milk powder, sultanas and sugar for breakfast (it's compact and keeps well) and noodles, beans and dried veges for dinner, then some sort of cracker biscuit with spread for lunch. These are bought wherever I can, so vary depending on where I am. But that's my fallback stuff, and I often carry the same 3-4 days worth of those for weeks at a time. But it means that as long as I have or can find water, I can cook and eat. I'll increase the stock if I think I'm going somewhere that doesn't have supplies, aiming to always have 3-4 days spare. Remember that a days riding is 3-5 days walking if your bike fails and there's no-one around to give you a lift, so plan to be able to get yourself out on foot if you have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wherever I can I buy a day or two worth of fresh food and live off that. I'll buy muesli, milk, bread, fresh fruit and veges and eat them in whatever combination works (usually the more fragile or fast to go off first, leading to &quot;watermelon, lettuce and avocado salad&quot; for breakfast). Expect to eat local food, and be ready to live off local staples if you can - that will make your trip more interesting as well as cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also carry small, robust gift items that are relevant to my story to give to people who provide hospitality along the way. I find that especially where I'm unusual local people will often be happy to talk to me and invite me into their homes. I will often trade an evening of story-telling for a meal and bed, then leave a thank-you card (cards are a photo of me with my bike, in a scenic location, and have my contact details inside). In the first world that's generally all I'll leave, because that's more than most people expect. They stick it on the fridge and it works as a conversation starter for months :) I find personal business cards very helpful too for giving to random people who are interested in you. Get them plastic coated or whatever so they last a bit longer and can survive a bit of dampness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T23:37:48.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16399" CreationDate="2013-06-26T00:48:47.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Foot slipping off the pedal unexpectedly can result in a worse experience than the maybe dead stop tip over.  Check out PowerGrips or the Fyxation(?) stap system.  Conventional clips with loose straps on cleatless shoes are the simple route &amp;amp; allow for quick when needed foot removal.  Practice track stands.  Outside of practical it's a basic skill.  If riding hilly terrain you might just want to consider going flip-flop freewheel side.  Longer or steeper pitches can be tough on the knees and/or tires.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7100" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T00:48:47.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16318" CreationDate="2013-06-26T01:01:43.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;cherouvim hit the important factors to consider &amp;amp; the hows. One other element is the condition of the terrain.  Back when racing when conditions were more muddy than dry found a narrower tire at a higher psi performed better.  Opposite for dry conditions.  On a smooth hard surface in general fatter tires require less psi than an identical thinner version regarding rolling resistance.  Higher psi does not = lower rolling resistance.  After a point you just have less control and a harsher ride.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7100" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T01:01:43.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2013-06-26T01:17:24.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only time I've carried CO2 is during mtn bike races.  Speed and convince.  For road racing there was the support vehicle or worse case situation a dnf. Have only run tubed mtn bike tires and tubular road tires.  For recreational riding and training it's a pump.  New favorite pump is the large version of the Lezyne Road HP.  The narrow dimension allows for easy higher psi pumping and the length for fewer strokes than the lighter mini pumps.  Pump is not that heavy at ~110gm.  Personal feeling that CO2 are wasteful for just general tubed tire use. Total weight savings is minimal over a couple CO2 &amp;amp; inflation device. Depending on the number of flats experienced the pump may in the long haul be less of an investment. Plus what happens if no pump &amp;amp; you mess up using the cartridge or run one short?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sitting in the ditch pulling off a tubular tire and mounting up the spare no matter if it's hot, raining or whatever is no fun. Add having to manually pump up the tire adds to the no fun.  But flatting is not supposed to be a good time:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7100" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T01:26:48.553" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T01:26:48.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="731" CreationDate="2013-06-26T03:25:27.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;at normal temperatures (human life temperatures) and pressures all gases behave about the same with temperature variation. Check out this article and the pressure tests of air, CO2, and nitrogen at the end:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powertank.com/truth.or.hype/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.powertank.com/truth.or.hype/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7313" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T03:25:27.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16025" CreationDate="2013-06-26T03:29:01.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Echoing some thoughts from above, I would usually avoid these sorts of intersections if at all possible. Those roads are just too over-sized (and likely high speed) for a bike. However, given that sometimes an alternate route isn't available, I'd suggest being a pedestrian at such intersections. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7314" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T03:29:01.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16091" CreationDate="2013-06-26T03:33:00.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike commute is less than 2 miles, and I ride a bike with a chainguard, so I wear my work clothes into the office. Anything over 4-5 miles, and I wear shorts and a t-shirt and change when I get there. So put me down as +1 for it being normal. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7314" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T03:33:00.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16419" CreationDate="2013-06-26T10:06:16.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So right after my hands-on experience I can say that an electric bike will give you no speed advantage (presuming you are moderately fit). The acceleration is really quite extraordinary.  Even in the highest gear you can just pedal away. I tested on highest power mode seeking best performance. The problem, as Tom77 and others mentioned, is top speed. It stops helping after around 26mk/h. And after it's just heavy and uncomfortable to ride. With a road bike you can go so much faster. Also - imagine your battery dies? Can't be fun hauling that heavy bike up a hill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested a womans bike, it was way too small. I reached top speed 35 km/h with some effort (in saddle). With my road bike I'd cruise that speed easily and feel comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7106" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T10:06:16.187" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16459" CreationDate="2013-06-26T12:46:45.863" Score="0" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;So what is a Q-LOC axle? If I decide to install a fork with such an axle, do I need another front wheel or is is it possible that my current QR hub is compatible. What do a Q-LOC wheel look like and how much do they cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T08:48:49.237" Title="What is a Q-LOC axle? Is it compatible with Quick Release?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16456" CreationDate="2013-06-26T14:29:29.230" Score="6" ViewCount="3247" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are people with full suspension bikes with several inches of travel be concerned about 'Stiffness' when discussing the advantages of thru axles. I would think this is more of a concern for rigid bikes which don't have suspension. Isn't the advantage that you're just less likely to snap the axle when riding down a gnarly trail not really how 'stiff' the axle is or does this have some other purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T03:42:36.323" Title="Why are people with full suspension bikes concerned about 'Stiffness' added by thru axles?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16448" CreationDate="2013-06-26T16:36:42.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stiffness in the front added by the 15mm or 20mm thru axle is very important because it lets the bike go through very rough sections (roots, rock gardens, corrosed terain) without transmitting unecessary feedback on the handlebars. This makes fast riding on rough terrain easier and safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, a stiff axle will not allow the wheel to bend laterally too much, even on a smooth terrain, when going fast on a bermed corner etc. This gives more presision and less lost energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, snapping an axle, even a 9mm, should be pretty hard. That is unless something has not been set up correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-06-27T03:42:36.323" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T03:42:36.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16458" CreationDate="2013-06-26T17:57:40.487" Score="2" ViewCount="5393" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the chain detached, when I spin my rear wheel it slows down really quickly (2 turns?) as if the brakes are lightly on.  The brakes are well clear of the wheel though.  Any idea what it might be?  The bike is about 2 years old and I have not done any maintenance to the bearings, so I'm wondering if that might be it.  But I have no idea if those are really the symptoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5841" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T13:21:52.777" Title="Why is there so much friction on my rear wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16450" CreationDate="2013-06-26T18:53:07.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar thing happen on an old fixie of mine. It ended up being that the rear axle was every so slightly bent, and that was causing huge amounts of friction. You can try oiling up the bearings. If that fixes the problem, terrific; if not, then you might need to take the rear hub to get looked at more thoroughly. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7118" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T18:53:07.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-26T20:12:03.197" Score="4" ViewCount="954" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a 2005 Claud Butler San Remo with a Sora 7 cassette on the back. My back wheel has broke and is not repairable and I have bought an Ambrosio WS23 Wheel (700mm) with Bianchi hubs which I believe had a 10 speed cassette on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been told it needs to be a Campagnolo cassette but can't seem to find any 7 speed cassettes from Campagnolo? Could I put an eight on it? Would i need a spacer? I want to know what my best/cheepest/easiest option is or should I just forget about it and try and get a Shimano hubbed wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7320" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-06-27T13:50:57.957" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T13:50:57.957" Title="Can i use a 10 speed hubbed wheel on my 7 speed/cassette bike?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16297" CreationDate="2013-06-26T20:30:42.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If on a road bike anything that is Sora / 105 level will work wonders. Deore or similar will work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is more important that the group-set IMO is the general quality of the cranks and chain-rings. The better the forging the longer they last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TBH I don't think it really matters once you get to decently specced bike these days because modern chains and chain sets are so good that they run years with few problems. I have a Sora kit that has almost zero maintenance for several years and the large chain ring is starting to want replacement just now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also It matters how it feels a lot as well. Crappy pedals and cranks will make it feel like you power transfer isn't brilliant; even the pressure in the tyres affects how I feel when I ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think tbh there is a lot of focus put on one part of the bike, yes crappy shifting can ruin riding but also having a crap set of cranks or wheels also hurts just as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6638" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T20:30:42.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16452" CreationDate="2013-06-26T20:54:17.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting a 7-speed (or indeed any) Campy cassette wouldn't do you much good anyway since the rest of your drivetrain will be Shimano. As you've discovered the two don't mix. (Or rather, they are not supposed to mix and you can expect problems if you do try to mix them. Never say never, I guess!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reckon your cheapest option could be to visit your LBS and to see if it is possible to take the wheel you bought, and to swap the Campy freehub to a Shimano freehub. I have no idea how easy this would be or how much it would cost. Worst case the LBS may want to rebuild the wheel, although there could be an easier way, I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next option, as you've identified, is to get a new wheel with a Shimano freehub - any chance you could exchange the wheel you just bought? Normally there's no cost difference between the two freehubs. But as long as you have a Shimano freehub you should just be able to slip your existing cassette back on (provided you have the right tool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of expense, I wouldn't recommend trying to fit the drivetrain to the wheel you just bought, that will mean several part replacements and costs will mount. You also need to be careful if you start thinking along the lines of upgrading your 7-speed cassette, certainly when you get to 10-speed, things like chains and derailleurs come into play, so you may need to replace more than you bargained for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-06-26T21:02:54.390" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T21:02:54.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16448" CreationDate="2013-06-26T22:59:08.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stiffness in this context is the ability to resist twisting and bending forces caused by turning and heavy braking (usually on difficult ground). A stiff shock moves up and down freely but allows no twisting or bending back and forward/side to side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTB riding benefits from stiffer forks. The main advantage is the precision of tracking by the front wheel. As an over simplification, think what happens when the forks twist - the front wheel no longer points in the same direction as the handlebars. On difficult ground this can change in a split second, making riding more difficult. The stiffer the fork, the more precisely the front wheel can be placed. In the extreme, a flexible fork can throw a rider offline, as best, slowing him, at worst, causing a prang. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For decades the 9mm QR was the standard for virtually all wheels. As MTB forks became longer travel and lighter, and riding more extreme, it was decided that a stiffer connection between the &lt;strong&gt;hub&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;fork&lt;/strong&gt; was required. The 20mm through axle was developed. This was rejected by many as too heavy, so the 15mm Through was developed as a lighter weight alternate providing nearly as much stiffness as a 20mm, and virtually no more weight than a 9mmQR. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are few benefits for a through axle for all but the most extreme or elite riders. The additional strength is a benefit to the most extreme downhill riders.  The additional stiffness is the only other real benefit - therefore, any discussion on through axles is incomplete without mentioning it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some controversy around the need for the smaller through axles on all but the very best bikes. Many believe the offer little advantage and many disadvantages over QR for a majority of riders, and are more a marketing gimmick than a real advance in bicycle performance (for average riders). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-06-26T23:04:11.423" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T23:04:11.423" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16448" CreationDate="2013-06-26T23:15:08.227" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thru axles not only keep the wheel in place, they also strongly join the right and left dropouts together. This structurally reinforces the component either being it a fork or a rigid/suspended rear triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This simply makes the bike able to handle greater forces before failure, because it distributes forces between both sides of the structure. It also avoids twisting of the parts. For example, if one arm of a fork twists, it means it may loose alignment relative to the other, thus meaning the wheel is not pointing in the direction the handlebar tells the rider, this leads to a bad feedback and imprecise ride feel. A thru axle keeps both sides of the fork aligned, eliminating (or reducing) this issue. It also keeps the lower ends (bottles) better aligned with the upper parts (stanchions), allowing for a smoother operation and longer  life of seals and bushings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For suspended rear triangles it also makes the structure stiffer, this allows better distribution of forces through the stays, so those forces reach the shock absorber with better alignment, also allowing for smoother operation and longer component life. It also keeps the pivots aligned, thus giving them a longer life for both bearing type or bushing type pivots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that a stiffer structure is more efficient and gives better feedback to the rider, allowing for a more confident and precise ride. It also allows a lighter bike to handle greater forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-06-27T00:50:53.230" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T00:50:53.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16450" CreationDate="2013-06-27T07:42:42.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible options could be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damaged bearings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bearing closed too tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bent axle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke that touches the axle (I had it once when I put a straightened j spoke instead a straight pull one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastEditorUserId="5688" LastEditDate="2013-06-27T13:21:52.777" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T13:21:52.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16447" CreationDate="2013-06-27T08:48:49.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appers that Q-LOC is the name SR SunTour gives to  through-hole axes, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/dstore/products/Q-LOC/3632/Q-LOC/15QLCTi.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. In &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16448/why-are-people-with-full-suspension-bikes-concerned-about-stiffness-added-by-t&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, the advantages are explained. They are not compatible with traditional QR, because of the difference in the diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T08:48:49.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-27T11:02:58.970" Score="4" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a month time I will be doing a two week tour in southern France. I was wondering which is the best kind of saddle for touring? I have a Specialized Tricross that came with a modern narrow and not so cushioned saddle with a hole down the middle (any idea what this is for?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a Brooks saddle B66 (with springs). Now, I love this saddle but I've been told that it is preferable to use one without springs and that is not so wide for longer rides. Exactly why I don't know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea, comments, etc very welcomed! Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3298" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T17:30:24.657" Title="The right saddle for touring" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16460" CreationDate="2013-06-27T11:41:33.507" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best kind of saddle for touring is one which &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; find comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cut-out is intended to relieve pressure from your soft bits leaving most of your weight on your sit-bones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very wide saddle might start to rub excessively inside your thigh on a long ride, while one with springs may be too bouncy at higher cadences and waste some of your effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A saddle is a personal choice and there is certainly no one ideal, &quot;best&quot; touring saddle for all people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you &quot;love&quot; your Brooks, I'd suggest looking at another &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/&quot;&gt;Brooks&lt;/a&gt; (maybe a narrower one), or if you're confident it will be comfortable over longer distances, use your B66.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T11:41:33.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16464" CreationDate="2013-06-27T14:00:45.427" Score="0" ViewCount="699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been getting over a chest cold, most of the worst symptoms are gone (like the sinus headache and tiredness).  However, I tend to have a bit of congestion that hangs around for a couple weeks after the other symptoms clear up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that mucinex (guaifenesin) seems to help me with this since it thins the mucous in the lungs.  Is it safe to take this to be more comfortable on longer rides?  Is there anything I should be careful of?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-06-27T16:19:17.187" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T16:19:17.187" Title="Is it safe to ride while taking mucinex (guaifenesin)?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-06-28T15:57:15.697" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16462" CreationDate="2013-06-27T14:35:15.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;NB: I am not a doctor nor a pharmacist. If there is ANY doubt, ask them first. If you are taking ANY other medication, definitely check for interactions. That said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be good. As with all medications, you will want to see how it affects YOU. I've just read the Mucinex label and the only warning it has is the standard &quot;ask doctor before taking if pregnant&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also just checked the Global DRO (with settings for US Cycling) and Mucinex is NOT prohibited for either in-competetion or out-of-competition and is not on the WADA prohibited list. If you are a competitive athlete in another country or another sport you would want to re-check. (US cycling search at link below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.globaldro.com/us-en/search/BrandStatus.aspx?brandid=51050&amp;amp;countryid=3&amp;amp;sportid=32&amp;amp;exact=0&amp;amp;searchid=1027508&amp;amp;userid=1&amp;amp;show=All&amp;amp;search=mucinex&amp;amp;newSearch=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.globaldro.com/us-en/search/BrandStatus.aspx?brandid=51050&amp;amp;countryid=3&amp;amp;sportid=32&amp;amp;exact=0&amp;amp;searchid=1027508&amp;amp;userid=1&amp;amp;show=All&amp;amp;search=mucinex&amp;amp;newSearch=false&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T14:35:15.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16462" CreationDate="2013-06-27T15:06:32.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plain old Mucinex (without the &quot;-D&quot; suffix) is guaifenesin, one of the most innocuous drugs in existence.  Unless you have a peculiar (and rare) reaction to it, it should be about as safe as one can hope for.  In fact, I'd recommend it if you ride in dry or dusty conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mucinex-D, on the other hand, contains a decongestant that can cause drowsiness and other such symptoms in a substantial minority of patients.  (And I believe it can also be picked up in pro sports drug tests.)  You should take that while riding only after you've established that you don't react to it (and you're not in pro competition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, of course, if you find yourself getting congested on rides that's a likely sign that you need to drink more water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T15:06:32.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16466" CreationDate="2013-06-27T17:31:23.087" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember I saw somewhere new Sram system that does not require chainguide. Don't remember the model, but could you please tell me more about it? How does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastEditorUserId="5688" LastEditDate="2013-06-27T17:36:57.950" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T17:49:32.730" Title="No more chainguide from Sram?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16465" CreationDate="2013-06-27T17:49:32.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;SRAM XX1 is their new single chain ring setup. Very expensive and I have not even tried a demo, very wide range on the rear 11 speed cassette (10 x 42) and lots of chainrings available for the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the chainrings are designed to 'hold' the chain on. The chainring teeth are designed (wider and taller) to have a better grab of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good review/article here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikemag.com/gear/first-impressions-sram-xx1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikemag.com/gear/first-impressions-sram-xx1/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Good image of the chainring enlarged teeth here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikemag.com/gear/srams-1x11-group-new-details-emerge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikemag.com/gear/srams-1x11-group-new-details-emerge/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T17:49:32.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16468" CreationDate="2013-06-27T18:39:33.413" Score="3" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a utility cyclist. Usually when I ride, I wear good outdoor shoes that are waterproof and hard-wearing, so it's OK if they get scuffed on pedals or splashed with mud or oil from the road surface. (Proper mudguards help a lot but still aren't 100% effective.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On occasion, I go to an event in formal dress, which entails wearing black, polished leather shoes. It's a lot harder to keep these clean and shiny. If I've a long ride to get there, I'll usually wear some shoes that are better for cycling and keep my black pair in my bag. But if I'm only riding 10 minutes to get to an event in town, having to pack a second pair and change them is a lot less convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easier alternative? A plastic bag over the shoes, secured with elastic, would keep them clean, but not (I fear) protect them from scuffs; besides, I'd be afraid of slipping when I put my foot down. Any other ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T18:44:09.277" Title="Protecting formal shoes from scuffs" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16467" CreationDate="2013-06-27T18:44:09.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of rubber overshoes that would work. Two of the most common brands are Totes and Tingley. Try a search for &quot;rubber overshoes&quot; on Google or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_12?url=search-alias=apparel&amp;amp;field-keywords=rubber%20overshoes&amp;amp;sprefix=rubber%20overs,apparel,224&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These will protect your shoes, provide some traction, and can be rolled up and strapped to the frame or seat with velcro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an example of the Totes brand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybBCl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Totes Overshoes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T18:44:09.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16471" CreationDate="2013-06-27T20:36:40.217" Score="3" ViewCount="1381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a road bike and I have been fitted by me, this is because where I live there are no professional fitters. I prefer ridding on the hoods, but since I changed my fitting this year and moving the bars up I can go for extended periods(90 minutes) on drops also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a couple of episodes of left shoulder and left flank pain, on the edge of the chest, at my nipple level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the episodes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after a couple of short sprints I hit a pothole, I instantly had localized chest pain ( this was not on the flank, was like 2 cm lower and to the centre of the body from the left nipple ) and pain on the back around same place. Only with deep breaths. Went away in 20 minutes of easy pedalling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;left shoulder pain after 5 hours of riding, I felt it at clavicle and towards the shoulder joint. I used hoods and drops on the ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;left shoulder pain after 4h hours of riding, mostly a clavicle. I was feeling it with each drive of the right leg, used hoods mostly as it was hilly course, drops only a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;left flank pain, at the edge of the chest, at nipple level. This was after a long hill, that took around 1h to climb, it had steep sections of up to 10% and I was breathing deeply all the way ( but not heavily, I didn't reached LTHR for example ). I was feeling pain only with deep breaths. I rested for a while, then begin descending and in about 20 minutes the pain was gone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw a doctor after the first episode and she ruled out cardiac problems, she asked me if I was out of breath and had crushing pain, which I didn't, and she also took my pulse and listen to my heart. I also had an EKG made by a sports doctor, which she interpreted as normal and made some blood pressure tests while resting and after standing which were both very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the last episode, I can find the spot where the pain was , I just have to raise my left hand, and search at chest edge at nipple level for a bit and I can find it, if I put pressure there then I feel sharp pain, the spot seems to be on a soft tissue when pressing against the rib.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have bad flexibility of lower back and hamstrings, I can barley touch my toes when bending over, and most of the stretch is from the upper back, my lower back is not horizontal. This makes me think that there is something with my position on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what could it be and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7327" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T11:18:07.943" Title="Shoulder and left flank pain" Tags="&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-27T23:39:30.127" Score="3" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read the topics on flashing vs. steady lights, but my question is even more basic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any data to support my contention that a flashing rear light will significantly increase the safety of a rider in the DAY time?  I know as an automobile driver I certainly see them sooner, but that's purely anecdotal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 14-yr-old, raised on a cul-de-sac with what I would call a &quot;less than stellar&quot; sense of urban traffic, naturally thinks blinky lights on the back of your bike make you a loser.  But while he &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a teenager, he's smart and logical enough that if I had some convincing data on accident rates, he'd probably buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try as I might, I've been unable to find much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7329" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T19:28:58.440" Title="Data to convince teenager that blinking rear light is worth the &quot;uncool&quot; factor" Tags="&lt;led-lights&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-07-02T20:17:32.280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16469" CreationDate="2013-06-28T00:56:49.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the usual disclaimers that I'm not a doctor, etc, it sounds like you strained an intercostal muscle when you hit the pothole.  Intercostal muscles are the muscles between your ribs; they assist in breathing, which explains why you experience pain with deep breaths.  As with any muscle strain, the only cure is time and resting the muscle.  Wrapping your chest with an elastic bandage might help.  Consulting the sports doctor would be better than asking me, but my bet is he'll tell you the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to answer your actual &lt;strong&gt;bike&lt;/strong&gt; question, I don't think it has anything to do with bike fit.  It's a physical injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T00:56:49.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16550" CreationDate="2013-06-28T08:24:48.870" Score="3" ViewCount="10364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently located this SR SunTour &lt;a href=&quot;http://srsuntour-files.dbap.de/_public/tuningbase/downloadarea/catalogs/SRSuntour_Workshop_Book.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;service manual&lt;/a&gt;, containing schematics of a load of forks. Trouble is, my fork only has &quot;XCR&quot; on a sticker, and production date stamped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/confused-about-low-end-suntour-suspension-forks-640272.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt; this is discussed and links are provided to SunTour's XCM, XCR and XCR product lines. Strangely, my XCR does not match visually any of the presented (mine has no V-brake option).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I supposed to find a model number stamped &lt;em&gt;somewhere&lt;/em&gt; on the fork&lt;/strong&gt;, as with most other bicycle components, or should I deduce which fork it is from the features e.g. wheel size, brake options, outlook, locking and adjustment mechanisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be quite surprised if the model is not stamped. How do bicycle mechanics deduce the model - do they know them all from experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T19:05:54.340" Title="How do I identify an SR SunTour fork exact model?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-28T08:27:47.357" Score="6" ViewCount="668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this old bike, I assume it's Italian from what I've been told by the former owner, and a Google search, but some parts say &quot;Made in France&quot; and &quot;Made is Switzerland&quot;, etc... The tires are very mysterious in the way they display pressure. &quot;25-622 (7000)&quot; is what the tire says, along with &quot;25-622 700c  Michelin —ELAN&quot; I don't know the unit, and 622 psi seems wrong. Someone please tell me how much pressure is acceptable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7330" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T12:25:39.307" Title="I have a foreign bike, and don't know what pressure to pump it to" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16473" CreationDate="2013-06-28T08:48:34.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;25-622 and 700C are both ways of stating the size of the wheel, not the pressure.&#xA;25-622 is an ISO size: the tyre is 25 mm rim-to-rim, and 622 mm in diameter. 700C is a more traditional name for the diameter, which is more often known as 28 inch. ISO sizes are somewhat out of fashion these days, as there's less variation in wheel size. See the late Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot;&gt;excellent tyre size guide&lt;/a&gt; for more information if you're interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=0f071f1d-d055-4fb2-90c3-27b0be518ff3&amp;amp;Enum=120&quot;&gt;VeloBase&lt;/a&gt;, Michelin Elan tyres are &quot;rated to 100 psi&quot; but shouldn't be inflated to more than 90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2013-06-28T12:25:39.307" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T12:25:39.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16473" CreationDate="2013-06-28T11:00:11.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires that size (700c x 25mm) of good quality on decent rims should be able to hold 100 psi when new, but if they're more than maybe 5 years old you should downrate that a bit (especially if the bike has been stored where the tires would be exposed to sunlight).  Plus you may find the ride at 100 psi a bit harsh.  But they should be inflated to at least 60 psi, and probably 80.  Below 60 you'll run a serious risk of &quot;snake bite&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if the bike has been sitting on flat tires for awhile the tires may not inflate evenly at first.  Inflate to maybe 50 psi, ride the bike 50 feet or so, deflate and reinflate to your target pressure.  While inflating watch the area of the tire adjacent to the rim to be sure that the tires are not off-center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T11:00:11.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16481" CreationDate="2013-06-28T23:20:35.727" Score="7" ViewCount="10544" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also known as a &lt;strong&gt;snakebite&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;pinch cut&lt;/strong&gt;, a pinch flat is a common term among the bicycling community for a certain type of puncture — but what exactly defines one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes pinch flats? What helps avoid them, and why? Diagrams would be very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="6678" LastEditDate="2013-06-28T23:27:48.847" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T19:20:03.620" Title="What are pinch flats?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16480" CreationDate="2013-06-29T02:05:02.847" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pinch flats or snakebites are caused when the rim bottoms out and the tube gets pinched between the rim and the tire and punctures - usually 2 smallish holes 10mm (1/2 inch) apart, hence the name &quot;snakebite&quot; because that what it looks like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two holes (or a hole and a sign of damage close to it) are the tell tale sign - its rare to get a puncture from a foreign object causing two holes in quite the same pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cause is that the air pressure was not enough to prevent the tire collapsing to the point the tube is pinched. Usually a sign of too low tire pressure, but can happen when you hit something like a rock or pothole with a sharp edge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prevention depends on riding - for a road bike, more pressure (under-inflated tires are the main cause), and check pressure before every ride. Avoid potholes and such like. For heavy riders or bad roads, bigger tires and thicker, stronger tubes can help.  Mountain bikers have a different problem - often we want to run lower pressures for traction on rough ground - the very same ground that makes you susceptible to snakebites. Its not unknown to keep lowing pressure till you suffer snakebites, and bring them up a bit. There are also option for tubeless tires, which do not suffer snake bites (but can suffer bead separation if run too low pressure), and as for road bikes, bigger tires and thicker tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another preventative measure is to coat the tube with talcum power before installing it. The talcum acts as a lubricant, and allows the tube to move without tearing itself apart. I have used this method on my MTB for years and it seems to be effective as I have not had a snakebite for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2016-10-08T19:20:03.620" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T19:20:03.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16483" CreationDate="2013-06-29T07:50:01.117" Score="2" ViewCount="27719" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I just bought a hybrid bike btwin riverside 3. It has 28 inch tires and weights 15kgs. My weight is 75kg. How much should I inflate my tires. And how often should I refill? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7324" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T14:16:38.030" Title="Hybrid bike how much should I inflate tyres" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16482" CreationDate="2013-06-29T09:49:31.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the correct tyre pressure, you should have a look on the wall of your tyre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously different tyre manufacturers will mould their tyres differently, but here is an example (one of my tyres, I have raided the flour cupboard to make the marking stand out!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PvHuB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we have: &lt;strong&gt;Max. LuftDruck / Inflation: 4.5 Bar / 65 PSI&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tyres are Continental, a German manufacturer, and the word LuftDruck means (surprisingly) air pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this tyre is on my offroad bike (26&quot;) so will probably show different values to those on your hybrid (I'd expect 75psi or thereabouts, but you should check).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the frequency you should check the pressure: some people will say every ride, I generally go for every week or two for the bikes I ride regularly, every ride for those I don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-06-29T14:16:38.030" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T14:16:38.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-29T22:02:53.823" Score="4" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shortly after changing a flat in a dirt road near home, I got another one. This last tube got a very small puncture. Inside the tire I also found some small pebble (like 1mm or less in length), but no thorn or wire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if this small gravel trapped inside the tire can puncture the tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T00:47:07.080" Title="Can small pebble inside tire puncture the tube?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16484" CreationDate="2013-06-30T05:38:52.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;More likely you punctured the tube while installing it. You have to be careful to not pinch the new tube between the rim and the tire. Also take care not to puncture the new tube with your tire levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When changing a tire I'll inflate it the tube about 50% and then peel the tire around to make sure the tube is not pinched. Then I deflate and the reinflate to recommended pressure. I use plenty of lube on the bead too. That can be water or better but grosser, spit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T05:38:52.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16484" CreationDate="2013-06-30T07:27:34.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the pebble was sharp, it definitely could be the reason. Each time before you change the tube, check the tire from the inside for any thorns that stuck or (something that happens quite often) glass particles that left inside. Using sealant tubes could be another great idea if your main riding is off road (I think that without them I would be changing tubes two times a ride). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T07:27:34.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16489" CreationDate="2013-06-30T18:52:41.320" Score="18" ViewCount="2915" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of the material connecting the fingers on some pairs of cycling gloves?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M6thG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gloves with attached fingers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3162" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T19:19:52.980" Title="Why Are The Fingers Attached On Some Cycling Gloves?" Tags="&lt;gloves&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16488" CreationDate="2013-06-30T19:19:52.980" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's used to pull the gloves off without them going inside out. Don't pull too hard, or they will rip.  A gentle even pull should be enough to remove the gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T19:19:52.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-30T19:46:33.373" Score="2" ViewCount="1471" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost every time I go from the big, to the small, front cog on my SRAM Red 2011 (with a KMC chain), the chain ends in the lower pulley position, as shown in the photo. Why?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K300U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T15:38:52.083" Title="Why does the chain misalign in the lower pulley when shifting to the small front cog?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16490" CreationDate="2013-06-30T20:08:05.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you're cross-chaining -- creating a bad chain angle.  With any dual derailer bike the chain angle is straighter if you use big front cogs with small rear cogs and vice-versa.  And with bikes with lots of rear cogs the chain angle can get bad enough to cause this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you need to learn to avoid cog combos that create a bad chain angle, and, in particular, when down-shifting on the front you should generally be at least 2-3 cogs away from the smallest on the rear (given you have a 10-speed rear).  (Keep in mind that you should tend to do this naturally if you're making good use of your gear range -- slowly shift down (larger cogs) on the rear as difficulty increases, then shift the front when you're fairly far &quot;downshifted&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, don't try to muscle ups a hill in a high gear and then downshift with the front when the effort gets too much -- take it in steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T20:08:05.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-01T00:38:59.640" Score="4" ViewCount="1103" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to hub replacement, I'm rebuilding a wheel. Are spokes used for a 32h tri-cross laced rear disc hub re-usable for a second building or is it worth the extra $20-30 for new ones? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4232" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T05:54:56.887" Title="Is it safe to re-use old spokes when re-lacing?" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16664" CreationDate="2013-07-01T01:31:44.810" Score="13" ViewCount="2380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching Stage 1 of the tour and the commentators said that it was 'risky' for Cav to wear a skin suit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware, the benefits of a skinsuit are that it's lighter and more aero. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downsides are that there's no storage for gels/bars. However, surely he can get gels/bars from other riders  in the team. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other downsides I'm not aware of? Why is it risky?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T20:04:09.753" Title="Why is wearing a skin suit in the Tour de France risky?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-01T05:23:24.910" Score="10" ViewCount="1625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mean a functional, noncosmetic, advantage. If I left the rust that was already there, would it weaken the parts? If it would cause more damage to some parts, which ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7351" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T13:28:22.130" Title="Is there any advantage to removing rust?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16493" CreationDate="2013-07-01T05:49:11.223" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A skin suit provides no protection in a crash. They are very tight and the material will transmit the gravel, etc. to the skin for the very short amount of time before it rips. If you do rip it due to a crash, you will likely need to change kit as a small rip in a skin suit will keep ripping and the tightness of the suit will pull the material away (think a ballon popping, just not quite as dramatic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skin suits are also less able to vent so overheating could be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T05:49:11.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16492" CreationDate="2013-07-01T05:54:56.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally yes. As Daniel points out, spokes wear and if you have a good number of miles on the wheels it's a good idea to replace if you have to rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3x build like you mention will have wear at the crossings as well as at the hub flange and at the rim. If you reuse you will be adjusting these wear points slightly, but only by a very small fraction and I would guess that the end result would be a higher chance of spoke failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, unless you are replacing with an identical hub, the dimensions will likely be different and will probably require a different length spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T05:54:56.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16494" CreationDate="2013-07-01T07:51:37.483" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effects of rust are typically overstated. Where is you concern?  Remove rust (or replace the parts) on moving components such as chains and cables, they will run smoother, more efficiently and quieter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On non-moving surfaces such as frame and handle bars etc, forget about it. Under normal use high quality steel gets nothing more than cosmetic rusting, and low quality steel bikes are so over engineered the loss of strength due rust won't make any difference to the serviceability of the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride the bike in winter where the salt roads, or at the beach, then you may want or need a bit of protection, however the moving parts will be rusted solid a long time before the fame fails..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another case you may want to consider is if the risk of rust stains on clothes and such like is a concern. In this case then treatment might be needed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T07:51:37.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16501" CreationDate="2013-07-01T11:35:02.143" Score="4" ViewCount="5533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new single-speed bike (after purchase this year, it was unused in a garage for a few months), but as I turn the pedals, the tension in the chain varies noticeably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I check, one-by-one, to find the source (and fix it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not mitigated (I'm guessing it'll never be perfect), can it wear down the chain/sprokets faster? Cause any other issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information, and bonus question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also having an issue that twice per a full pedal rotation, there is a click sound that &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; to come from the bottom bracket. Not sure if related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T23:50:49.260" Title="Why does the chain tension vary as pedals are turned?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16500" CreationDate="2013-07-01T13:58:54.970" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is &quot;play&quot; in the bottom bracket bearings, this could also explain the clicks. Usually this is quite noticeable, and you can check it by grabbing the crank-arm and trying to move it sideways. Usually this is not the cause for variable chain tension on singles;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chainring is &quot;eccentric&quot;, either because of haveing been tightened off-center, being manufactured off-center (some defect or poor quality), or damaged. The best way to check is to suspend the bike or turn it upside-down, then slowly spin the cranks do see if it looks off-center. If it is badly assembled, you can try to loosen the bolts and recenter it manually;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sprocket might be off-center. This can be very subtle, but you can see the difference between the sprocket or the chainring being off-center depending on how many times per turn the chain reaches its tight spot, since the sprocket has a much smaller diameter;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain itself can be unevenly worn out, or be uneven from factory. This can happen with very cheap chains, and can cause even a combination of slight unevenness of chain, sprocket and chainring to create a somewhat &quot;random&quot; pattern of tightening and loosening of the chain as the bike rolls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the consequences, I would say that the main problem would be to adjust the rear axle too tight, as this would cause excessive mechanical stress on the drivetrain, or to assemble it so loose that it falls off. Except if you ride fixed or coaster brake (when the lag while pedalling backwards would become a bit annoying), there is not much problem in letting it a bit more on the loose side (enough not to reach an overtight position).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you use good quality chains and replace the chain often, the rest of the drivetrain tends to &quot;age well&quot; while wearing, because the teeth tend to &quot;even out&quot; in the process. But if you use crappy chains, even good quality gears will suffer a lot more...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T13:58:54.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-01T16:47:26.867" Score="4" ViewCount="7543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Shimano Tiagra 9 Speed shifters on my road bike. On my front deraileur, when I shift up (smaller chain ring to larger chain ring), I can control the amount my derailleur moves, therefore I can use this to trim the front derailleur going this direction to remove chain rub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, how do I trim going the opposite direction?  On my shifter, when I shift down (larger ring to smaller ring), when I press the shifter, it instantly goes down to the next ring.  There is no in-between and I can't control the amount it moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you supposed to be able to trim going that direction somehow? Sometimes, if I happen to find myself in my larger cassette gears but also my largest chain ring and I'm not able to adequately shift to a different chain ring (maybe going up a sudden steep hill or something), then I get chain rub. But the only way it seems to be to trim the front derailleur in this case is to shift to the lower chain ring, then shift back up to the larger chain ring but don't push the derailleur all the way into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T18:23:02.540" Title="How to trim down using Shimano Tiagra front derailleur shifters?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-01T18:22:23.990" Score="4" ViewCount="2481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently started working on retrofitting an old bike with an even older weed-eater engine.  The engine will sit atop a bicycle rack and directly drive the rear wheel tire (engine has a built-in clutch).  I've already constructed the engine mount and obtained other hardware. &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/we3bn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/we3bn&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that once I get moving (maybe 15-20mph) the chain will be moving so fast around that tiny sprocket that it will come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7356" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T01:35:15.193" Title="Weed-eater bike conversion - Safe rpm?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16504" CreationDate="2013-07-01T19:37:44.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My concern is that once I get moving (maybe 15-20mph) the chain will be moving so fast around that tiny sprocket that it will come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a &lt;code&gt;chain tensioner&lt;/code&gt; to keep tension on the chain, so some slack on the chain won't cause the chain to skip off the sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3884" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T19:37:44.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-01T21:54:16.900" Score="1" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 21 speed (3 front, 7 rear) NEXT bicycle ( model number 8568-49, year 2007.12.06) sitting in my back yard at the moment a few missing parts and I was hoping to get some help on what to get and whats compatible with what because my knowledge of bicycles is limited. Ok so here it is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bent rear axle 3/8 thread 165mm... I found it hard to find a 165mm would a 170 or 175mm be alright?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Missing rear derailleur... I no model number to go off of here so I was thinking a Shimano Tourney SIS TY22? The cassette is a 7 speed Shimano MF-T207 and the front derailleur is a Shimano FD TY18.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The twist shifters are bad I noticed they were SRAM so here I though... SRAM MRX Twist Shifters? Will they work with what I have and what I'm proposing in terms of derailleurs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally chain, here I have no clue... something that wont snap as soon as I start to peddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to complete my bike and hope to enjoy in soon, I'm very open to suggesting and thank you for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7358" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T22:46:20.930" Title="First time buying parts ( derailleur, chain, rear axel, shifters) need help!" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2951" CreationDate="2013-07-01T21:57:00.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No it is not safe as it removes a fail safe from the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The UCI has banned the practice in 2013 under the bike modification rule. It is understood this was done to bring UCI rules in line with French Law to remove an unfair disadvantage faced by French teams. The UCI will be putting &quot;UCI approved&quot; stickers on more than just frames this year and will include forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lawyer lips worked as a fail safe but their removal only saved seconds from a wheel change. Only relevant if the peloton was racing away!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T21:57:00.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-01T22:21:07.790" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there seat types or seat features that are ergonomically better for certain kinds of ailments such as lower back pain, knee pain, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, perhaps cushioned seats might be better for absorbing shocks from the bike or firmer saddles could be better for stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T00:47:23.080" Title="ergonomically sound seat types or features?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;injury&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16506" CreationDate="2013-07-01T22:46:20.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There a good chance that the combined cost of the parts you need will exceed the cost of the bike. The Next brand is a brand sold at discount retail stores. They retail for around $125. Many of the parts are not available as new replacements. The easy method is to say throw it away. There are some alternatives though. Many cities have programs called recycleabicycle.They teach youths how to repair  bikes in an &quot;earn a bike&quot; environment. If you don't qualify for the program they make accept the bike. The other option is to contact your local bike shop and see if they have some used parts available. If you check your local Craigs list or similar listing you may find another bike that is free or inexpensive enough that you can put the one bike together with the parts from both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T22:46:20.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16504" CreationDate="2013-07-02T01:35:15.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick check around the interwebs (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=chain+drive+rpm+limit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=chain+drive+rpm+limit&lt;/a&gt;) took me to this site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/roller-chain-sprocket-rpm-210682/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/roller-chain-sprocket-rpm-210682/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks very practical to use some sort of chain for what you want to do. Bike chain might work, might not, but the cog you're using doesn't look suitable for bike chain anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T01:35:15.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16508" CreationDate="2013-07-02T01:37:44.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, seat height and fore/aft position (and handlebar position) are more important than design.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat height is especially important for knee pain -- having the seat too low is quite hard on the knees (as is pedaling in too difficult a gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the back, seat position fore/aft and handlebar position (both up/down and fore/aft) determine how much the back is stressed.  Generally a more upright position (seat and handlebar closer together and handlebar higher) is easier on the back, but seat and handlebar too close together can &quot;scrunch up&quot; a tall person and cause problems.  (And if you have an excess of avoirdupois having the handlebar too low can make it hard to breathe well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing that seat design can do for you is relieve (or not) pressure on sensitive areas, indirectly relieving the back since you don't contort yourself so much to take pressure off the sensitive areas.  But it often turns out that super-padded seats and (especially) seats that are extra wide are less comfortable than their more Spartan cousins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T01:37:44.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-02T02:41:45.373" Score="4" ViewCount="13747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend that refuses to attempt to learn to ride a bike without training wheels/being a tricycle, despite being 22 years old and an avid jogger.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an 30 year old touring bike, and a hybrid that is more on the mountain bike end of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that adult training wheels are horribly expensive, and I don't have $200 to blow on a set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've come up with some crazy ideas that I might discuss with a professor from my engineering mechanics class, but does anyone have an affordable way to set up training wheels on a &quot;typical&quot;, if you will, adult bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-07-04T02:26:50.373" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T03:02:27.640" Title="Training Wheels for an Adult" Tags="&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16512" CreationDate="2013-07-02T02:57:21.070" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Training wheels can be effective if someone has balance issues, but for those people a tricycle is normally a better approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To someone with reasonable balance learning to ride, using training wheels impedes learning. For infants, the balance bike toys are great, but they are not available in adult sizes. Instead, remove the cranks, bottom bracket, derailleur and chain from a normal bicycle. If you don't have the tools a bike shop should be able to do this cheaply. Ideally choose one that's a little on the small size for the adult so that the crossbar is lower and the handlebars closer than usual. Using a cheap/reclaimed bike means reassembling it afterwards isn't an issue, which is handy since old, cheap bikes are often really painful to put back together (and you'll probably end up buying new cables, chain and possibly bottom bracket anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That setup lets them get the hang of balancing and steering with the safety of being able to put both feet on the ground easily. Do it off the street, obviously, preferably in a park with grass available to deal with the inevitable &quot;what if I fall&quot; question. Answer: try falling on the grass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T02:57:21.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6323" CreationDate="2013-07-02T03:39:49.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having your saddle straight ahead is not always best either. Every body is different - I'd urge you to set up your bike to fit your actual body, not some aesthetic ideal of &quot;supposed to be_&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;_&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7359" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T03:39:49.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-02T06:02:22.563" Score="2" ViewCount="2144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching for instructions on how to remove my old saddle from my seatpost. All the videos/guides I've seen have been about the newer kind of clamping mechanism where just one bolt needs to be loosened with an allen wrench. Mine is different- there are two bolts on either side of the saddle and none of my tools seem to fit. (It's an HL Aluminum Micro Adjust 27.2 X 300mm). How can I remove it?? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7260" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T01:40:05.503" Title="Removing old fashioned saddle from seatpost" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16555" CreationDate="2013-07-02T07:03:30.683" Score="0" ViewCount="9404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a mountain biker now living in Minneapolis and so I bought a road bike, but I can't keep tires on it to save my life. I 'upgraded' to Continental Attack/Force tires, got a glass shard in the rear, and now just went over a pothole that popped both the front Continental and rear stock tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't even been able to even ride a mile on it. At this point, I'll take heavier wheels with more rolling resistance just to be actually able to ride. Does anyone make solid rubber or non-pneumatic tires for 700c wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These look neat, but they aren't being produced yet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/v9SWIsY8rzQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: I like to drop and hop curbs (though I haven't even been able to attempt it on the road bike), there are frequently metal shavings or other sharp objects on my garage floor, and I live in a neighborhood with lots of cracks and potholes. Should I just give up on road bikes and stick with my mountain bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2013-07-02T07:08:48.113" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T18:35:16.570" Title="Are there road bike tires invulnerable to popping?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16521" CreationDate="2013-07-02T08:01:32.913" Score="5" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tires similar to this one:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5ngF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is that the tire is quite &quot;flat&quot;, with large knobs on the edges, unlike most MTB tires, which are round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires feel quite unstable on any hard surface when cornering. What is the design reason behind making an MTB tire non-round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T10:59:49.817" Title="MTB tires: why the extended thread on the edges?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16522" CreationDate="2013-07-02T09:14:14.547" Score="3" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a new wheel for my family bike: there will be a kid seat on the back rack over the wheel. I picked up some cheap double butted flat aero spokes (not elliptical but flat).&#xA;From reading around forums these should be no different to a standard round spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is this: is the double butted flat spoke weaker regarding the situation, not road/race but weight carrying?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety is important. No I am not looking for speed I got them as they were cheap clearance (Pro-Lite Gavia Aero Spokes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6411" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T11:23:44.060" Title="Aero spokes strength on a family bicycle" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16512" CreationDate="2013-07-02T09:42:48.897" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don’t learn cycling with training wheels. The most difficult part of riding a bike is keeping balance and making a turn, not pedaling or braking. When you have appropriate speed, an experienced cyclist performs a steering manoeuvre called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countersteering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;countersteering&lt;/a&gt; (although most of them are not aware of that): In order to turn left, you push the left bar handle (yes push, not pull). That way you &quot;fall&quot; to the left and at that moment physics kick in and you make a nice left turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have training wheels, you are learning the exact opposite: if you want to turn left, swing your steer to the left, if you want to go to the right, swing it to the right as if you are in a car. So you'll have to re-learn cycling again once the training wheels are dismounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learning the hardest part (keeping your balance and steering) can best be done on a low bike with the pedals dismounted, using your feet to make speed. If he is experienced in that, just remount the paddles back and off you go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: Living in the Netherlands, father of four kids that could all ride a bike at the age of three (without any use of training wheels) and being an active motor bike rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7361" LastEditorUserId="5316" LastEditDate="2013-07-04T09:08:16.850" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T09:08:16.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16517" CreationDate="2013-07-02T10:48:03.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What feels unstable when cornering on hard and smooth surfaces will turn out opposite on soft or structured ground. In this case the pronounced edge of the thread will bite into the soft ground or hook into the structure of hard ground which will give you a better side control than a thread that is just following the roundness of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can compare it a bit with the shape of the skid of an ice skate: when gliding you want to have a smooth surface that has the lowest possible friction while you want to have a sharp edge on your skid for good control in corners and when actively skating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T10:48:03.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16517" CreationDate="2013-07-02T10:59:49.817" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are downhill MTB specific tyres. The extended side knobs will fully engage when cornering hard. By hard I mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/6705085/&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/6705085/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/XCSlayer/DSCI4707.jpg&quot;&gt;http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p223/XCSlayer/DSCI4707.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The large gap between the center and the side knobs is mainly to reduce weight and to improve the mud management of the tyre (to not allow mud to be blocked and carried between the knobs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A review of the specific tyre you posted can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Maxxis-Minion-High-Roller-2-review-2011.html&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Maxxis-Minion-High-Roller-2-review-2011.html&lt;/a&gt; and for the side (cornering) knobs it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;The cornering knobs were altered with this in mind, angling them slightly&#xA;for more bite and adding a vertical sipe, again for added knob flex to &#xA;allow them to conform to the ground better than a solid knob. Changes &#xA;were also made to have the cornering lugs bite sooner than on the &#xA;previous design.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T10:59:49.817" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16518" CreationDate="2013-07-02T11:23:44.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'll have a problem. Aero spokes are no less strong than regular double butted spokes. I use them for downhill riding and whenever one breaks (due to bad handling, loose spokes or extreme impacts) it is never on the bladed flat area. They'll either break close to the nipple or close to the spoke head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that usually spokes break one by one and never all together. So even in the rare scenario that one breaks (probably because they where too loose) the wheel will be able to continue riding normally and you'll replace it and retighten as soon as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T11:23:44.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16529" CreationDate="2013-07-02T14:22:16.147" Score="7" ViewCount="12288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at possibly buying some kind of bike rack for my 4-door Mazda 3 sedan. I currently just have one road bike, but want to be able to carry two bikes just-in-case. Does anyone have any opinions, one way or the other, for a roof rack versus a trunk rack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I worry about a trunk rack scratching the paint on the car. We've all seen those bikes on trunk racks that seem to be swaying in the wind and seem &quot;loosely attached&quot;, and I do plan to drive on the highway/interstate with the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trunk racks are a lot cheaper than the roof racks. Is it worth spending the extra money to buy a roof rack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the different options I'm looking at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roof rack:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001PUX4IO&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Yakima-2009-CopperHead-Mount-Rooftop/dp/B001PUX4IO/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1372773181&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=car+roof+bike+rack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trunk Rack:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00ASSQYK4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Deluxe-2-Bike-Trunk/dp/B00ASSQYK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1372773123&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=Trunk+bike+rack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help and/or insight is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6614" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-07-02T16:48:55.587" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T20:32:38.643" Title="Roof Rack vs. Trunk Rack for Sedan" Tags="&lt;car-rack&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16525" CreationDate="2013-07-02T14:45:03.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considered looking for a Reese hitch instead: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2013_Mazda_3.htm?style=Sedan%20with%20LED%20Taillights&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;E-trailer hitch for Mazda 3&lt;/a&gt;.  It would offer a cleaner look to the car, be easier to load and unload bikes, and won't damage the car's finish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T14:45:03.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16532" CreationDate="2013-07-02T14:50:18.200" Score="4" ViewCount="16049" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I realize this isn't everyone's taste, but indulge me for a moment...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought a beater cruiser bike on craigslist, and I'm trying to move the seat farther towards the rear of the bike for a more &quot;relaxed&quot; riding position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a name for this kind of modification?&lt;/strong&gt; I'm just calling it a &quot;bent seat post&quot;, but I might have better luck Googling if I knew what this was called.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it safe to cut handlebars for this kind of seat post?&lt;/strong&gt; A local mechanic told me they wouldn't support a person's weight, but some of the examples below appear to be modified handlebars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there some other material I can use?&lt;/strong&gt; Someone suggested water piping, and I'm looking for more alternatives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can a seat post like this be purchased?&lt;/strong&gt; I'm guessing no, but you never know.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples via Google:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XgTjs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;subtle bend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2fxq0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QFSD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;welded joint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bTwK5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8L3GF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7213" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T01:45:59.807" Title="How can I use a bent seatpost to move my cruiser's seat farther back?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16525" CreationDate="2013-07-02T15:03:04.633" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there will be a clear roof vs. trunk recommendation as both systems have their pros and cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Roof&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Pro&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not cover the trunk lid (access to the trunk when fully loaded)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bikes stay cleaner (Especially when raining - on the trunk, the rear of the car sucks up road grim which gets into the bikes moving parts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Con&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to lift the bikes up to the roof for mounting (more or less difficult depending on your size and roof height)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Significantly changes the car's steering and wind behaviour&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher wind resistance, therefore higher fuel consumption&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Risk of driving under a low object and significantly damaging bike and car (Putting a small sticker on the top of the windscreen in front of the driver - I use a red arrow - meaning &quot;Bikes on roof&quot;) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Trunk&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Pro&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower wind resistance, therefore less influence on steering and fuel consumption (With modern cars such as the Mazda 3, this is surprisingly significant)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loading/unloading is easier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can see if bikes become insecure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Con&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe prevents access to the trunk when fully loaded (may depend on car and rack model)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Influences sight through rear mirror&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocks rear lights and number plate (Legal considerations in most countries)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bikes more prone to damage - Major : accident, dragging on ground, Cosmetic: rack design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the scratches: the roof mounted one has the advantage of using points on the car that are dedicated to mounting, which means that there's very low danger of scratching your car (as long as you are careful when mounting the rack itself). The trunk mounted racks normally have some foam rubber on their fastening parts, which normally also prevent the car from scratches. So here, there's also normally no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you don't buy the next best cheap rack but have a look at some tests and invest a bit more money, both types will do their job. Also, as long as they have a reasonable mounting design (that is understood and used correctly), highway speeds (130km/h, 80mph) shouldn't be a problem with any of them. On the other hand, both types can be dangerous if the bikes are not properly fastened on the rack. As far as I know, the German technical control board (TÜV) and automobile clubs recommend the trunk version over the roof mounted one where possible, because of their lower influence on the steering of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-07-03T00:54:41.893" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T00:54:41.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2013-07-02T16:30:03.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the widest tire that will fit on your bike and inflate it to the max recommended. I used Bontrager Hard Case for some time for commuting. They suffered fewer flats than most. A added a liner &amp;amp; slime tube both of which helped. I ride by an auto body shop that uses the street as a work area so you can just imagine. &#xA;I tried a solid rubber tire from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airfreetires.com/default.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.airfreetires.com/default.asp&lt;/a&gt; but I will tell you I was not happy at all. The not only was the ride godawful but the road resistance was very high. I wasn't expecting the latter but it was unmistakable. What killed it totally was that they cracked in the cold weather. IMHO they are a complete waste of money.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bontrager + liner + slime tube was reasonable but I still got more flats especially in the rear than I wanted as a commuter. I ride every day rain or shine. Flats make you late. The widest tire that would fit on the rear of the road bike was a 24C IIRC. I recently purchased a Specialized Sirrus Elite hybrid which I adore so much I also use it for long rides. I may just ditch the road bike. I'm using 28C rear and 32C front right now. I've had Two flats since I purchased the bike in I think it was March &amp;amp; never a flat on my way to or from work. If a tire can be inflated to 90psi or more road resistance is not a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6737" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T16:30:03.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2013-07-02T17:16:16.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found it easiest by taking some light weight sheet metal cut it to shape to my gear cover/guard and had a friend wield it over the cover it helps a lot. If u want it to match your bike paint it first. Make sure u use heat resistant paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7365" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T17:16:16.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16527" CreationDate="2013-07-02T17:24:20.697" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some more searching, it looks like I'm looking for a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=layback%20seatpost&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot;&gt;layback seatpost&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, and they're available for purchase on eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7213" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T17:24:20.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16527" CreationDate="2013-07-02T17:29:21.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are seat posts available that have a curve that can be used to the rear or to the front. Without knowing your height or more importantly, your weight, recommendations can't be made, but I'll include links that may help you decide. I surely wouldn't recommend making your own from handle bars or any material you don't know the history of. If the seat post should happen to break off at the wrong moment, (I don't know of any good time for that to happen!), serious injury could follow. Find a seat post meant for and designed for moving the seat rearward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chubbyscruisers.com/shop/bent-seat-post&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chubbyscruisers.com/shop/bent-seat-post&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://search.aol.com/aol/search?q=backward-curved+seat+post+for+bicycles&amp;amp;s_it=spelling&amp;amp;v_t=keyword_rollover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://search.aol.com/aol/search?q=backward-curved+seat+post+for+bicycles&amp;amp;s_it=spelling&amp;amp;v_t=keyword_rollover&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T17:29:21.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16508" CreationDate="2013-07-02T18:05:05.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course any seat needs to be adjusted to the proper height, fore and aft position, saddle tilt, and in conjunction with your foot/pedal positioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More &quot;cushioning&quot; isn't always the answer. I used to have the soft seat and then add a gel cushion to that. This made the seat wider, but it still became uncomfortable after about 30 to 40 miles. It was just too wide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched to a Brooks leather saddle, the B-17 model, and after treating the saddle with their Proofhide, and a break in period of about 750 miles or so, the saddle seemed to be more comfortable than a &quot;softer&quot; saddle, mostly because of the width being a bit narrower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that adding a pair of Zoic padded shorts or wearing padded touring shorts in good weather, was the perfect combination for me. I'm 5' 11&quot; and weigh about 200 pounds. Sometimes it's just necessary to try different combinations of soft/firm and regular, wide or narrow widths of saddle to get the combination that works for you. This also includes saddles that have the &quot;cutout&quot; area in the seat for your Perineum area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T00:47:23.080" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T00:47:23.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16470" CreationDate="2013-07-02T19:02:49.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much searching for any possible statistics on flashing versus steady lights, I found none...only opinions, and lots of them! It seems people do recognize a flashing red rear light more quickly and from a greater distance away than a steady light, but as far as judging the distance to the bicycle rider the vehicle driver is, seems to be a problem for some. I use a flashing red light in the rear at all times. On cloudy overcast days and before sunset, I use a flashing white light at the front ( especially when the setting sun may be in the drivers eyes ). And of course a steady white light after sunset. Emergency vehicles have flashing lights for a purpose. You can see them coming from the front or the rear well before you may hear their siren, so the flashing lights do draw attention. Your 14 year old son will be just like other kids his age ( I know I was! ), and won't pay much attention to what you ask...until he has a &quot;close call!&quot; Kids his age think most drivers are about their parents ages. They don't really consider the elderly person driving down the street with 80 year old eyes or other problems, as being a danger to their activity on a bicycle. If he thinks the flashing light is &quot;not cool&quot;, then there's a lot of flashing red light &quot;nerds&quot; in my area includiong me! I wish to live to ride another day, so I tend to attract as much attention to my position on the road way as possible. All you can do is &quot;advise&quot; and hope eventually they feel you're more right than they are. As long as he uses the rear light, that will give him more time to realize you're only looking out for his welfare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T19:02:49.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16470" CreationDate="2013-07-02T19:28:58.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some rear lights that have really cool flashing patterns with very tiny but bright LEDs.  I have a pair (front and rear) of Knog's each of which has four LEDs but are only about 1.5 inches square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm all too far away from my teen years, but my cycling group thinks these are cool :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T19:28:58.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16460" CreationDate="2013-07-02T19:32:42.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need more than a couple of weeks to determine if a particular saddle is &quot;comfortable.&quot; If you like the Brooks B-66, then by all means use it for the tour. All saddles, leather or not, must be &quot;broken in&quot; to some degree. Making sure your saddle heigth, fore and aft position to your knees being centered on the pedals at the right moment to keep your hips from swaying, and the tilt of the saddle, level or nose slightly up or down, is all important and can determine how your saddle &quot;feels.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That cutout in the center of the saddle is to relieve pressure from your Perineum area while in the saddle. It also adds some ventilation and cooling for that area. Some people say this works while others don't notice any difference. To me, this cut out area would tend to weaken the solid structure of the saddle. Leather softens over the years if well cared for, and it seems to me this cut out area may change and get wider if it begins to be pulled towards the edges of the saddle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorUserId="10751" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T08:39:42.513" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T08:39:42.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16432" CreationDate="2013-07-02T19:41:51.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wearing it on your person would keep the center of gravity more at the center of the bike where it should be. I used to have a paper route when I was a kid, and needed two bags of papers over the rear carrier on average days, but when the papers were larger on coupon days, an extra bag was needed on the handlebars for about a dozen papers, and just that 4 or 5 pounds made the bike handle much differently until those papers were delivered at the start of the route. Just make sure your messenger bag is secured to your back and doesn't slide around. If it does, maybe a regular hiking backpack of the proper size would work better than the messenger bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T19:41:51.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2013-07-03T01:20:53.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is your problem the tires themselves or are you getting pinch flats?  If you don't have a floor pump you may not be inflating to a high enough psi to prevent flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first got on my road bike I kept getting flats and shredding my sidewalls.  It was because I was trying to inflate with my frame pump.  Got a floor pump and problem solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that isn't the issue - I've had pretty good luck with my specialized armadillo tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T01:20:53.107" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16556" CreationDate="2013-07-03T01:24:43.473" Score="4" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that my bike sometimes changes gears incredibly smoothly—quietly, quickly, very little 'jolt' through my pedals—while other times I get a rough, clunky change. I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to ensure smooth changes, or at least reduce the rough changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's any adjustments required, as I've had it serviced a few times, and the gears all work (no jumping between them, no really slow changes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's generally not a huge issue (I'm commuting not running time-trials) but it can be a bit of a surprise (never good to have your foot slip) or can sometimes cost a lot of momentum when going up-hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still getting used to my slightly wider-spaced chainring (new bike is 34/50, old one was 28/38/48), so shifting on the chainring seems to have the potential for the worst changes, but even shifting up/down the 9-speed cassette varies between smooth and harsh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering if it's a case of timing the gear-change with my cadence? Or do I need to put more/less force on the pedals before/during the change? Or are there other tricks to it? And when I get to the limits of the cassette, is there a trick to smoothly shifting on the chainring &amp;amp; cassette when going up-hill to avoid a sudden ratio jump and loss of momentum with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T21:33:20.127" Title="Are there any tricks or pitfalls in timing gear changes?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;best-practice&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16926" CreationDate="2013-07-03T01:36:50.203" Score="5" ViewCount="18184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having an issue on my road bike getting the rear derailleur to reach all of my cogs.  I can either not reach my two smallest cogs or two largest cogs depending on the cable tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a nice set of instructions here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.williambenedict.com/bikes/derailleurs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.williambenedict.com/bikes/derailleurs.html&lt;/a&gt; and followed through them with the cable disconnected and I was able to set the limit screws so that if I moved the derailleur manually I was able to shift smoothly to every cog.  Once I connected the cable I was able to shift to all but the 2 largest cogs so I started adjusting the barrel 1/4 turn at a time.  I had to turn the barrel almost all of the way in order to get to the 2nd largest cog(I can't even reach the largest) and with this adjustment I can no longer reach the two smallest cogs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell my derailleur isn't bent at all.  Also, I'm not sure if it is much more difficult to shift to a larger cog than it is going back to a lower (I have bar end shifters).  I have to pull on it quite hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I am able to successfully shift to every gear smoothly whilst manually moving the derailleur, I imagine this is an issue with my cable.  Would it's age have anything to do with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T06:42:53.433" Title="Cant get my rear derailleur to reach all cogs" Tags="&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16559" CreationDate="2013-07-03T07:57:15.543" Score="0" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the oil specs for the 2013 Totem RC2 DH DPA fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/totem-rc2-dh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/totem-rc2-dh&lt;/a&gt; the &quot;Technical Manual - RockShox Front Fork Oil Chart - 2011 (44.85 KB)&quot; only mentions 2 step (their previous system and not dual position air) and the latest PDF &quot;2014 RockShox Suspension Fork Oil, Air, and Coil Charts (2.3 MB)&quot; has all the forks apart Totem. I think that's because they are discontinuing Totem this year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T01:07:37.077" Title="Oil specs for the 2013 Totem RC2 DH DPA" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16549" CreationDate="2013-07-03T09:21:15.577" Score="3" ViewCount="20509" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at entry level SR SunTour suspension forks, there are the options of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;MLO&quot; - mechanical lockout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;HLO&quot; - hydraulic lockout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;RL&quot; - remote lockout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, mechanical and hydraulic lockout is clear. Remote lockout - not so much - it says that it is engaged from the handlebars, not from the fork itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My forks says &lt;a href=&quot;http://velosipedidani.com/suntour-xcr-011-series-p-5539.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XCR 011 Series mg&lt;/a&gt;. On the side of the knob is written &quot;Speed lockout&quot;. I am able to lock the fork while compressed, but if I do it uncompressed, there is some small damping still, which is very nice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know what is this &quot;Speed lockout&quot; thing, without disassembling the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16472/how-do-i-identify-an-sr-suntour-fork-exact-model&quot;&gt;Note that I have been unable to identify the exact model of the fork.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T23:50:39.293" Title="What is Speed Lockout on a SUNTOUR fork?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16554" CreationDate="2013-07-03T12:31:06.023" Score="2" ViewCount="1504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have entered a 30km mtb race that will take place in a couple of weeks time. I don't know much about the route and won't be able to get on it beforehand as it goes through private farms that will only be opened for the public during the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The profile is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n2vO6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;30km profile&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any tips as far as what a good average speed would be, what a good average time would be and when or when not to go all out? Sprint in the beginning? Sprint in the end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5577" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T23:51:27.083" Title="Advice/Tips for first time racers" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;race&gt;&lt;advice&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16547" CreationDate="2013-07-03T12:42:01.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't enter a category that's too advanced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eat a lot, but not too much the night before.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some sleep, this one's hard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stay out of the way of anyone in a higher category if they're starting after you or lapping you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't drink too much during the race, you'll feel sick. But don't skimp either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expect to get elbowed out of the way a lot for the first km.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have Fun!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, go prepared for a fast, tough, rough ride like you normally would, finish DFL and have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Average speeds are going to depend too much on the other riders, the track and the terrain to guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Don't be afraid to walk if you're out of your depth, just stay out of the way of the people who are riding that bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T12:42:01.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16544" CreationDate="2013-07-03T16:16:52.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remote lockout means that the fork has a &quot;remote&quot; lever that is installed in the handlebar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fork is a XCR RL from 2011 as well and pressing the blue lever locks the fork, pressing the black lever on top of the blue unlocks it. This is a XCR from 2011 as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the remote in the following picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://postimg.org/image/3quyvjcx3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wf2Oj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://postimg.org/image/3quyvjcx3/&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a knob with speed lockout you should have a fork similar to SF11 XCR LO 26&quot;. If your fork has rebound adjustment then it's a XCR LOD. You'll have to look that up in Suntour's site since I can't post more than one link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Browsing Suntour's Tuning Base may give you additional information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4022" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T17:30:08.873" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T17:30:08.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16472" CreationDate="2013-07-03T17:09:08.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Suntour's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/dstore/products/Suspension+Fork/2888/XCR/SF11-XCR+LO+26%27.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;XCR page&lt;/a&gt; you'll find some pictures of forks that have both disc and v-brake mounts. However if you press &quot;Show more details&quot; you can read on the bottom of the details column: &quot;Note Disc only type bottom case available&quot;. The same model can have two different bottom cases which support disc and v-brake or just disc mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have an XCR and the model is nowhere to be found. You have to try and deduce the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4022" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T17:09:08.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16551" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-03T17:09:11.707" Score="2" ViewCount="2671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I want a flip flop hub, to keep my options open. If I get one off amazon, do I need to buy a freewheel and fixed-gear cog as well, or will those come with the hub? Also, does the hub have to be specifically sized for my bike, or are they universal? I'm trying to learn how to do this, but it's hard not knowing anyone around who has done it before. Any info would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7372" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T19:31:28.277" Title="Planning on building a fixed-gear/single-speed from an old Schwinn World. What new parts will I need?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2013-07-03T20:26:22.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found Continental Gatorskins to be a very reliable tire through a variety of different urban conditions (I live in Montreal, a land replete with potholes, and my ride to work takes me through a light industrial area that has plenty of mechanic shops spilling their debris onto my path).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suggestions I can give are: &#xA;1. always have a spare tube, levers and a CO2 pump for the inevitable flats.&#xA;2. ride around potholes if you like your wheels and body. It's a road bike not a mountain bike so don't expect to be hopping everywhere&#xA;3. Keep a floor pump at home and ensure that your tires are inflated every week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping high pressure, not hitting the holes, and tough tires have kept me flat free... but that spare tube etc. are worth their cost in reducing my anxiety levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T20:26:22.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16472" CreationDate="2013-07-03T22:08:06.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A easier way may be to look up your bike year and model on &lt;a href=&quot;http://Bikepedia.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikepedia&lt;/a&gt;, the site is both detailed and accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T22:08:06.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16547" CreationDate="2013-07-03T23:51:27.083" Score="8" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't make any major mechanical changes to your bike the day before the race. If it ain't broke, don't fix it- at least not at the last minute. You will end up kicking yourself for it. Make sure you've had plenty of riding time on your bike's current configuration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring tools and tubes, but pack light. Bring a small/medium sized multi tool, a tube, something to air it up with (preferably co2), tire levers if they're not part of your multi tool, and maybe a patch kit if you have bad luck with flats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the gun, go for the hole shot. Most mtb races will start in an open area and give you somewhere around a quarter mile to a couple of miles before singletrack to vie for position. Ending up middle or back of the pack means a lot of clawing your way past slower riders throughout the race which equals lots of lost time. Sprint early and then slowly let off to recover. Don't be the jerk that gets the hole shot then blows up only to be passed by the entire field.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find your pace and settle in. After the sprint start it's important you recover and don't over pace yourself for the rest of the race. Otherwise you'll find yourself blowing up before the race is over. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drink before you're thirsty, eat before you're hungry. Words to live by when riding regardless of whether you're racing or not, but especially important when you're racing. Bonking and cramping sucks, so be proactive in avoiding both problems Bring plenty of food and water. Gels are preferable as they're easy to consume when you're running near redline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be polite when passing and being passed. When you need to pass, let the person ahead know your intentions and which side you plan to pass on, and wait for a safe place to pass. If someone is asking to pass you and you're not in podium position, let them by at your earliest convenience. Don't let impatience or pride get in your way in either case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't wear headphones, even if the race organizers allow them, unless you plan on leading from the gun to the finish. Don't be that guy. You'll know what I mean the first time you try to pass someone who's jamming out instead of paying attention to the race.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't sandbag. This one is for your second race if you blow the field away in your first race. Bump up a class if you embarrassed the competition, because it's shameful to stay in a class just because it's an easy win. Not saying this is you but it's worth getting out there for others.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T23:51:27.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2013-07-04T00:05:20.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;At risk of being downvoted, you don't want want solid tires. There's a reason that all performance tires for all vehicles are pneumatic. The decrease in compliance of a solid foam or rubber tire just doesn't compare to a pneumatic tire.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Look into a tire with kevlar reinforcement- most brands have them- or aftermarket anti-puncture tire liners that sit between the tire casing and your tube. You may even want to try a tire sealant like the one made by Stan's NoTubes, though if you're running tubes you'll need the kind with removable valve cores.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One last thing to note is that the number of flats you're getting may depend on what part of the road you're riding on. If you're riding to the right of the white line (assuming you're in the US), ie on the shoulder then you're going to get a lot more flats. The shoulder is where all the debris accumulates even if the road looks clean. For many road riders, especially those who are just starting and don't feel comfortable riding on the road, simply switching from riding on the shoulder to riding to the outside of the actual lane alleviates a substantial portion of flat issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T00:05:20.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16541" CreationDate="2013-07-04T00:23:03.183" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 basic tips &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to be predictive in your shifting. Don't wait until you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need the next lower gear to change gears. Try to do it before your cadence drops to where you're mashing on the pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease up on the pedals when shifting. If you missed on the first tip, then let up on the mashing very briefly during the downshift. This will aid the chain in transitioning from one cog/chainring to the next. With some practice you can even get the timing right to where the chain will climb (or fall) during the least powerful part of your pedal stroke (6oclock/12oclock-ish) during sprint (or just normal) pedaling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't shift the front and the back at the same time. Try to drop the front chainring first and stagger upshifting in the back by a split second. This will help reduce drivetrain issues like dropping your chain and chainsuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T00:23:03.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16512" CreationDate="2013-07-04T00:34:50.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would you blow $200 when it's the friend that refuses to learn to ride? Tell this person to get a 24&quot; wheeled kids bike from a thrift store for 15 bucks and take the cranks off to turn it into an adult coaster bike. That wouldn't look any more ridiculous that an adult riding a bike with training wheels, and it would actually teach this person how to balance on a bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T00:34:50.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16484" CreationDate="2013-07-04T00:47:07.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of friction between the casing and a tube is impressive, especially over time (there's a photo out there that I tried to find to illustrate it but failed- if anyone can find it feel free to edit), but if you don't see an obvious spot where it looks like the tube &quot;wore through&quot; then you probably had a puncture where the offending object simply fell out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T00:47:07.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16543" CreationDate="2013-07-04T02:45:23.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a link to the 2013 SRAM fork oil chart. It includes the Totem. It's a PDF of a fairly complicated chart, so I can't post the info directly. I'll try to summarize it later today. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByDywRkKVjrPeHRNVWJXS3ZhRzA/edit?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByDywRkKVjrPeHRNVWJXS3ZhRzA/edit?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the updated 2013 pdf which includes the TOTEM RC2 DH DPA, listed as the 2-step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is confirmed by SRAM (owner of Rock Shox) that the 2-step and the dual position air use the same oil specs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T01:07:37.077" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T01:07:37.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15181" CreationDate="2013-07-04T09:22:09.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The noise in your ears is caused by the &lt;em&gt;turbulent flow&lt;/em&gt; of the wind across your ears - you are more hearing this than the wind itself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two types of flow: &lt;em&gt;turbulent flow&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;laminar flow&lt;/em&gt;.  Laminar flow is how wind flows over a smooth, gently sloping object object, such as the nose of airplane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turbulent flow is how air flows over rough surfaces, such as your ears - this is what makes the noise!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, anything you do to smooth the airflow about your ears - even covering it with any kind of headband - will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, the shape of your head is a lot smoother than your ears - the flow is more laminar, and thus quieter.  So covering up your ears with a conforming band makes the surface more like your head, and thus quieter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T09:22:09.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16561" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-04T12:47:48.820" Score="2" ViewCount="3773" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I ride into my new bike the fork doesn't shrink. My weight is about 81kgs. I think good forks usually shrink to 75% of its length. In my case it does not shrink at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork is cheap. Does not have any preload settings with it. Also is does not have lockout functionality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to make it softer? Maybe by opening it and do some hacking. Not sure though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork manufacturer is Zoom. Here is the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/lQEhmyk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fork details image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fork is same. Except its color is white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6458" LastEditorUserId="6458" LastEditDate="2013-07-04T13:15:52.287" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T15:38:18.227" Title="Fork Adjustment" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16578" CreationDate="2013-07-04T12:53:28.937" Score="6" ViewCount="6120" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a previous &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13915/cable-routing-and-why-is-there-no-optimum-solution&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; it was explained to me that no cables pass under the top tube of my Specialized Hardrock, so that the bike is easy to shoulder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it isn't. The top tube is quite thin (V-shaped) and the only way I can pull this off for more than a couple of minutes is to place the bike exactly over the shoulder strap of my backpack. But maybe I am doing it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How to shoulder an MTB? Should the bike be parallel to the ground or vertical, or tilted? Are there some bike designs that are aimed to be carried (besides all light bikes) - maybe the cyclo-cross bikes?  Are there any suitable preparations before leaving to a journey in the high mountains, where one will be passing very difficult terrain&lt;/em&gt; with the bike on the back?*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Very difficult for someone carrying a bulky bicycle and a backpack with food, at least. Summer weather, maybe muddy.  About 2000 meters height. Crags and plenty of options to trip and fall.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T16:07:49.860" Title="How to shoulder a bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-04T15:09:47.280" Score="2" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;The left hand steel blade spokes of my WH-RS30 (not 30A) are constantly exploding inside of the nipples when going up hill in a standing position. I have increased the right hand side tension to about 2150N (1600N is the recommended limit for the rims) and the left hand side to about 1150N (1100N recommended limit). The wheel now however is not perfectly centered, but slightly shifted towards the left. Is that acceptable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to tighten the right side any further, but lower tension on the left is not acceptable either. I only increased the tension by about a 1/4 turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is going that much above rim recommendations dangerous? No right hand spoke ever exploded, only the left hand side. Might I just be to heavy / &quot;strong&quot; with 90kg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/spoke-tension-meter-tm-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TM-1&lt;/a&gt; (tensiometer) is a bit off? The left side spokes still feel awfully easy turnable. What settings do you use on your TM-1. Mine are 20 right - 15 left because I think the spoke is closed to a steel blade with 1.0mm x 2.2mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, as I ordered repair spokes, they came with longer nipples (part number didn't change). Is this a sign of a known problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T12:09:33.570" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T12:09:33.570" Title="Spoke tension - is a left tilt ok to prevent explosion?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16561" CreationDate="2013-07-04T15:38:18.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fork specs clearly say peload and lockout despite your claim that it has neither. However, looking at the image, I only see preload knobs. Not sure where the mechanical lockout lever is... So I have two guesses either A)it's locked out and the lockout knob is not very obvious, or B)The fork is inexpensive and stiff and therefore you are not experiencing any &quot;sag&quot; (The compression to ~75% when the fork is loaded with your weight). The perception of lack of sag is likely exaggerated by the fact that the fork only has 50mm of travel. As you get into mid priced forks, most start at 80-100mm of travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T15:38:18.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16562" CreationDate="2013-07-04T16:23:48.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some designs that shoulder better than others. The slope of the top tube plays a big part in how well it carries. The greater the slope the smaller the triangle and the more difficult it is to get your arm between the frame. If you notice cyclocross frames have a near horizontal top tube. Shouldering the bike is an established part of the race. Looking at images of Hardrocks  the toptube  has a decent slope so my guess is it will never be comfortable to carry. You could try rigging a shoulder strap from the saddle to the stem. You will still have to deal with the nose of the saddle hitting you in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T16:23:48.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16569" CreationDate="2013-07-05T12:45:10.043" Score="1" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canyon.com/_en/roadbikes/bike.html?b=3081&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Canyon AL 9.0 Di2&lt;/a&gt; bike and would like to mount a triathlon handlebars on it. My ultimate desire would be able to have the gear switchers both on the triathlon and the bike's handlebars. My questions are :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(i) Is there gear to achieve all the above without cutting and soldering the wires and doing that type of nasty work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(ii) If it is not possible to have it the (i) option, maybe one can do it with cutting and soldering the wire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(iii) Any suggestions for the handlebars for this type of bike? I have a rather weird body-geometry (with rather short legs and rather long torso).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any comments are very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6541" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T22:18:48.763" Title="triathlon handlebars for ultegra di2" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16568" CreationDate="2013-07-05T15:29:03.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you want are &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com.sg/publish/content/global_cycle/en/sg/index/news/dura-ace_di2_satellite.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;satellite shifters&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/dura_ace.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TT shifters&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe they just plug into the standard brake/shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T15:34:47.187" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T15:34:47.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16574" CreationDate="2013-07-05T18:08:29.420" Score="10" ViewCount="35657" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier this year I purchased my first road bike (a 2013 - Felt F75). I had never really ridden before, so I didn't want to spend &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; much money up front not knowing how much I would actually ride. All in all, I think I'm riding more than I really ever thought I would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to start upgrading components on my bike, generally speaking, where can I get the most bang for my buck right off the bat? I've heard that getting new wheels can make a night-and-day difference in some cases, but didn't hear much evidence to back that up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys think? Here is the spec list for the F75 for reference:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;del&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2013/Road/F-Series-Road-Bike/F75.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2013/Road/F-Series-Road-Bike/F75.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/del&gt; broken link.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For the 2016 edition see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.feltbicycles.com/International/2016/Bikes/road/race/f75.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.feltbicycles.com/International/2016/Bikes/road/race/f75.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6614" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T05:24:03.740" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T05:24:03.740" Title="Most effective upgrades on Road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16571" CreationDate="2013-07-05T19:21:07.680" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks as if you chose wisely. Very nice bike! As for upgrades at this point, if I were you, I'd just ride the bike and enjoy it for now. You'll find things down the road you may want to try. The Mavic wheels should perform very well for you. The tires woould possibly be the first thing you'll possibly &quot;upgrade&quot; when you wear the original tires out, but by then you'll have talked with other bikers and will have many opinions about which tires are the best for your particular style of riding and for the road conditions you ride on the most. To get the most from your bike, just perforem regular maintainence on the critical moving parts and enjoy your rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T19:21:07.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16571" CreationDate="2013-07-05T19:38:01.073" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;looking at your bike, which I basically see as a alu-105 setup (albeit a good setup, Felts are lovely bikes), I can suggest a few things but right away I'll say I don't think there is a &quot;magic bullet&quot;. In no particular order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheels, as you say. On a lot of low-to-mid-range bikes, you just need to look at what wheelset they have to realise that this is where the manufacturer is keeping costs down. Obviously this goes away as you climb the range but whichever way you look at it, the better the wheels, the more expensive they are. For example I upgraded my wheels last year, but the ones I got cost me 50% of what I paid for the bike, over 1000GBP. &lt;em&gt;(In fact I started off with near enough the same question as you just asked, and this was my answer.)&lt;/em&gt; So, relatively speaking, a lot. However, purely performance-wise, this is probably one of the best upgrades you could do. As with most things cycling, you're paying for lightness and aerodynamics. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;groupset. Your bike has 105 components, you could always upgrade your components to Ultegra.  &lt;em&gt;(I'm thinking specifically of the 10-speed mechanical Ultegra rather than the 11-speed or electronic versions here.)&lt;/em&gt; The plus side here is that you can do this in a piecemeal manner, so they will fit to your budget/timeframe, the downside is that these parts work out a lot more expensive if bought separately than they would if they came on a new bike. That's just down to economies of scale. A further possible downside is that you won't notice much difference! 105 ain't a bad groupset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep saving until you can upgrade the frame itself. You always have the option to go carbon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much are you interested in the actual mechanics of your bike? In terms of maintenance, for example. Some people hand their bikes off to the bike shop, other people do things themselves (or would like to). If you're in the latter category, a decent tool set perhaps? Plus of course this type of &quot;upgrade&quot; would last you for life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lastly not so much the bike itself but peripheral stuff like getting good clipless pedals, if you don't already have them, more comfy shoes etc. Perhaps, if it turns you on, a gps-enabled trip computer. Personally I love the &quot;data&quot; aspect, and a Garmin 800 was top of my &quot;next cycling purchase&quot; list for a very long while, of course it doesn't make me any better a cyclist but to be able to look at all my rides retrospectively certainly adds to &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; enjoyment. Perhaps also smaller bike parts such as a better saddle etc. Obviously there are no big bangs here, but if you're budget-driven....&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think which, if any, of these you choose is ultimately going to be down to how you see yourself using your bike going forward. Are you wanting to get faster? ride longer? go touring? compete? etc. etc. etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise you could look at every suggestion and decide that none of them is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-07-06T01:32:17.243" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T01:32:17.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16571" CreationDate="2013-07-05T21:38:06.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many upgrade components will perform better than their lower cost counterpart, many are just lighter. Sometimes the weight savings comes at the cost of reliability. I would try to test ride some more bikes with higher end components even if you have to beg borrow or plead. While on the ride try to notice if the shifts seem smoother, the saddle fit better, the brakes seem steadier, the handling crisper less twitchy. If you don't feel the difference between your 105 and Ultegra  don't spend the money on that upgrade. If your butt feels like you went to heaven then upgrade the saddle.  The best way to get the most for your money is to upgrade as items need replacement. If it is broken or worn out the extra cost of better components 25 to 50 percent more than the original. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T21:38:06.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-05T22:06:15.000" Score="1" ViewCount="18410" Body="&lt;p&gt;A month ago I bought a Scott Aspect 60, and for about a week everything was ok. Then, I started hearing a noise coming from the crankset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thought was that it was the front derailleur - after adjusting, the noise is still here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, I tried cleaning the chain and lubricating it - didn't help with the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise happens regardless how I pedal - sitting on the bike, standing, on a stand, forward, reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it means anything, the noise is gone if I remove the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is more-less constant, something like clicking, but irregular, perhaps more like scraping, but I checked, the chain doesn't touch anything other than the &#xA;chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I can do on my own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7391" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T17:03:18.063" Title="Clicking noise from crankset" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16576" CreationDate="2013-07-05T23:44:10.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need basic tools for most of the following, but if I were you I would check these components in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your rear quick release. If this is too loose it can creak or click. This is especially true for newer external cam (aka &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;exposed cam&lt;/a&gt;) quick releases. This is the case more than you would expect and requires no tools to fix. For the external cam QR type you might want to put a couple drops of lube on the moving parts to reduce friction. If it's an internal cam type QR, just make sure it's tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your crank arms. If they are not properly tightened or greased, they can also make noise. If they are especially loose you can ruin them or they can fall off while you're riding (but this is also true for any part), so make sure they're tight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your pedals. Sometimes even when properly tensioned you will get a minor click from pedals. Make sure they're well greased and tightened to spec. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your chainring bolts. Same deal. Make sure they're tight and greased or loc-tighted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other potential issues but the ones listed above are the most likely culprits that are most closely related to the drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T23:50:26.613" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T23:50:26.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16562" CreationDate="2013-07-06T00:57:46.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When shouldering any bike, I always have my hand up next to my shoulder so it actually takes a large part of the weight, and it is key to stopping the bike bumping up and down on my shoulder (which is what seems to cause the most discomfort)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, make sure the top tube rests on the top of your muscle, not actually on your shoulder itself. Muscles cope easily with a metal weight - bones not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I always tilt mine down slightly to the front, this way I can get the tube to sit really nicely on my muscle without the pedal bashing me in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T00:57:46.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2013-07-06T03:04:43.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things that must be considered when looking at the average speeds of the Tour de France are strategy and racing dynamics before you look at the numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main strategy objective for any of the teams in the Tour is to go only as fast as you must to achieve a given objective while doing the least amount of work possible.  If teams could win the tour averaging 23 mph or by not doing any work at the front of the peloton they would, but that is never the case.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the flat stages you don't see many breakaways and the peloton generally stays together the entire race with many different teams sharing the work load at the front.  None of those teams are going to really push the pace (why would they?) unless they want to protect their sprinter or get them in position for the sprint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the stages with significant climbs you will often see a breakaway of four to eight riders get separation from the peloton. Now, depending on how long the breakaway stays away, the breakaway is determining the average speed of the stage.  If everybody in the peloton is sharing the workload individual riders would barely notice a change in pace from 40 to 42 km/h, while it is a tall task to ask four to eight riders to pick up the pace by the same amount. So the question is who is going to do the work to catch the breakaway?  Usually it is the team with the rider in the yellow jacket, and they are going to work as hard as they must to catch the breakaway, and then they will slow down to save energy because others riders will continually be challenging them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, a team's objective is not to average a high speed, but to achieve an given objective without doing a large amount of work.  On flat stages sprinters are going to suck wheel and out sprint every one to the finish, so 90% of the peloton will not do any work the entire stage, while on mountain stages the average pace is generally dictated by the strength of a breakaway. If the breakaway is caught the pace promptly slows down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7393" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T03:04:43.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16576" CreationDate="2013-07-06T06:56:27.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no better place to turn when faced with a creak, click or clunk than &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the creaking only occur when you are pedalling on the bike, or can you recreate by lifting the back wheel and pedalling with your hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creaking under load is often simply a bottom bracket that has not been fully tightened. As the bike is new and it uses a cartridge bb this could be likely so I'd check JM2's suggestions and if none of those work then take it back to the shop where you purchased it and explain the sound to them, they should be able to identify and  rectify it relatively quickly (a bottom bracket requires a special tool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T06:56:27.023" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-06T11:39:27.540" Score="4" ViewCount="7616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a fixed gear bike and I wanted to change the rear wheel, I'm sort of new to all the bike knowledge but i couldn't find an answer to this. i ride 46 x 18, i don't know if its good or bad, i can change it to 46 x 16, which is better?&#xA;another thing is i got this rear wheel which has a fix cog on it but it wont sync with my chain, whats the deal with that? i have no clue what to do, can i please have a hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7394" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T13:32:54.187" Title="Why doesnt my chain fit on my cog?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16581" CreationDate="2013-07-06T13:32:54.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chains for modern bicycles all have a 1/2&quot; pitch - the distance from roller to roller or from pin to pin. However, multi-speed bicycles have rollers that are 3/32&quot; wide (or narrower), while many single speed drivetrains (fixies, track bikes, BMX) have rollers that are 1/8&quot; wide. Similarly, there are chainrings and cogs which accommodate wider or narrower chains. Since single speeds and fixies have diverged from the world of track bikes, lots of bikes are set up with parts from multi-speed bicycles (i.e. ubiquitous 3/32&quot; chainrings, cogs, freewheels, and chains) rather than with wider 1/8&quot; track parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uqixX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chains&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, if you use a narrow chain on wider chainrings/cogs the drivetrain will bind up! The opposite is possible - a 1/8&quot; chain on 3/32&quot; hardware - because the chain is wide enough to fit over the teeth. &lt;strong&gt;It's possible that you bought a wheel fitted with a 1/8&quot; cog to mesh with a drivetrain fitted with a 3/32&quot; chain.&lt;/strong&gt; The easiest thing to do would be to buy a 1/8&quot; chain. There are different opinions on mixing component widths, but so long as it is adjusted properly it should work quietly and safely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you do anything, measure the width of your chainring teeth and compare it to the width of your rear cog teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T13:32:54.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16576" CreationDate="2013-07-06T17:03:18.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experienced the same condition of having a &quot;clicking&quot; noise that seemed to be coming from the bottom bracket/crank arm area. I too always keep my chain clean an lubed. Removing the chain and turning the crank arms quieted the clicking noise. I inspected the chain and determined that there was a suspect link or two in the same spot. I bought a new chain, cleaned and lubed it, installed it and the clicking noise was gone. An easier fix than if it had been the bottom bracket or a chain arm that was the problem. You may want to try the same type of repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-07-06T17:03:18.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-06T18:40:15.800" Score="7" ViewCount="2006" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was getting a sort of rubbing sound from my front wheel, like rubbing brakes, but the sound continued even with the bridal loose.  So I disassembled my front hub.  Everything looked good until I got to the cones.  One has a rather noticeable line worn by the balls (more so than I've seen on other bearings), and the other has what I would call a spalled spot in addition to the line, with a rough, wavy area for maybe 15 degrees of arc.  The cups, on the other hand, look factory fresh.  This is a Shimano RSX hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what would cause this?  The hub has 25-30K miles on it, but has been overhauled twice.  The sound came up over a period of maybe 100-200 miles riding.  I don't go off-road and I don't jump curbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, since the cups look good and the rim probably still has another 10-20K of life left, I'm thinking of getting a new hub and just swapping the cones, vs replacing the hub or buying a new wheel.  Any reason not to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More info&lt;/strong&gt;:  I took a closer look at the cones.  One is not really that worn -- there's just a barely-perceptible mark from the balls, and I'd not suspect it at all if it weren't for the other cone.  The other is spalled to one degree or another all around, however.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, oddly, the two cones are not identical.  The &quot;good&quot; one has the plastic seal washers, while the &quot;bad&quot; one has no groove for seal washers.  Clearly, one or the other (probably the &quot;bad&quot; one) has been replaced in one of the two bike shop overhalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, why was the old cone replaced?  Presumably it was spalled as well, so what could be causing one cone to spall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't removed the dust caps, so I can't get a REAL good look at the cups, but will have a shot at it again, using a flashlight.  But on my several inspections so far the cups look smooth and shiny.  And I'm certain the balls were replaced the last time around.  (Unfortunately, inspecting 18 tiny ball bearings is just about impossible.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/udFmj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCunc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, my camera only does a middling job with macro photography.  In the first shot the bad cone is on the left and the good (stock Shimano) one is on the right.  The second shot is the bad cone removed from the axle.  The line you can see, up close, looks kind of like a bead of weld, with &quot;puddling&quot; -- little dents kind of pushed up against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I went to remove the cone I discovered that it was very difficult to remove.  Something had snarled the threads on the axle, at about the junction point between the cone and the lock nut.  It was impossible to say with any certainty, but it looked like the axle was very slightly bent at that point.  It may be that a bent axle was the cause of the failure (though I don't know how it would have gotten bent, or how a bend at that point could cause a bearing failure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, swapped in the axle from a new hub (also replaced the balls and repacked it) and the noise seems to be gone (though hard to tell for sure, as it was so windy for my test ride).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grrr!!!&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is back, with the new axle, cones, and balls.  Have not taken it apart yet, but I'm guessing one of the cones will be pitted when I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And looking for a new wheel, I can't find anything on the internet.  It's a Shimano HB-A410 hub, Mavic 622x18 rims, 36 hole.  So far I've not found any 36-hole front wheels, and most of the 622 road wheels I find are &quot;aero&quot; -- not exactly the style for my touring bike.  I'll check the local shops to see what they can get -- failing that I suppose I'll have to build my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Final answer&quot;:&lt;/strong&gt; Pretty much convinced that the hub was bent and came that way from the factory.  This is consistent with the repeated spalling and the damage to the axle that I found.  Replaced with a nearly identical wheel from Peter White and things seem fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T01:15:28.433" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T01:15:28.433" Title="Cause of spalled cones?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11041" CreationDate="2013-07-07T05:25:46.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I got was a comfortable seat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Second was lights and a lock.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Third was rear rack and saddle bags.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A new inner tube was just maintenance.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm thinking about handlebars with a bit of a rise to them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think like you some bikes are just too expensive; I got my Schwinn Sidewinder at a pawn shop. The dealer said to me all frames are about the same, it's the components that make the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might think about a  multi tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7399" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T03:02:53.863" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T03:02:53.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16590" CreationDate="2013-07-07T17:27:31.557" Score="0" ViewCount="823" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've managed to piece together trawling the internets, this period was before quality dropped for Mongoose, but that Sycamores were low- to mid-range models. I'm considering how much time and effort to spend on overhauling a bike like this for commuting btw, I'm from outside the States, if that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7404" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T22:52:57.110" Title="Where did a '95-'96 Sycamore mtb fit in the Mongoose product range?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;history&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16587" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-07T20:36:13.630" Score="6" ViewCount="23898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading a bit about riding and braking techniques (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html&lt;/a&gt;) and I'm having some trouble pulling off the hard front brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is the style of brake that I have on my bicycle:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZkSr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I apply my front brake, with maximum force - it doesn't seem to be nearly enough to send me over the handlebars or skid the tire.  I slow down, but it seems to be fairly gradual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've adjusted my brakes myself (possibly, I've done it incorrectly...) but there is very little clearance between my rims.  My wheels both seem to have a very tiny wobble that prevents me from setting my brakes any tighter, but when I pull the brake it feels fairly soft, almost as if the cables have some stretch to them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My real question here is what can I do to improve my braking time?  Does it sound like I've done something wrong.  I did have the brake pads replaced once before, but they appear to be in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3162" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T19:57:40.137" Title="How Can I Increase My Braking Power?" Tags="&lt;braking&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16587" CreationDate="2013-07-07T21:07:57.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, if anyone has mucked with the components on the bike it's possible that they exchanged either the brake levers or the brakes themselves and produced a mismatch where the levers are not capable of providing enough pressure.  But this shouldn't be a problem if the bike has all it's original components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if, when you squeeze the brake levers, they &quot;bottom out&quot; against the bar, that indicates that they're misadjusted or the cables are rusted/worn.  (If, due to wheel wobble, you can't adjust tight enough to prevent bottoming out then you need to get the wheel trued.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But failing those, likely it's a problem with the brake pads.  First make sure they are squarely pressing against the side of the rim and have not gotten twisted to where they're making poor contact.  And check to see that the pads are not worn down to where the metal pad holder is close to hitting the rim.  (Note that the rear edge of the brake pad will tend to wear faster than the front -- simply because the pad looks good from the front does not mean it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; good.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pads are not worn out (and they don't have oil on them or some other such problem) then it's probably just a problem with pads that are too hard and you need new pads that are a little &quot;grabbier&quot;.  This is, to a degree, a personal choice thing, as there are different pad materials with different characteristics (and most people don't like pads that grab too much), but it's also true that a given set of pads will get harder and brake more poorly as they get older and more worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last possibility is that you have the rare case of steel rims (usually only seen on very cheap bikes).  Brakes don't work nearly as well on steel rims as on aluminum, and so for steel you need pads that are quite &quot;grabby&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T21:07:57.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16587" CreationDate="2013-07-07T21:28:29.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at your rims to see if you have any contaminates on the brake surface. Wipe the rim with some rubbing alcohol and see if there is any improvement. Brake pads are made of different material with different properties. Some are very hard and have long life, others are softer and stop better but at the expense of durability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T21:28:29.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16586" CreationDate="2013-07-07T22:52:57.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Sycamore could only be considered a mid-range bike. It had reasonable entry level components but nothing great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tange chromoly frame would make a good base for a commuter but I think this was only a part frame so it may be quite heavy as opposed to a full chromoly frame. You would struggle to find a replacement fork if you were changing that due to its 1 inch head set. Not sure on the bottom bracket if it was cartridge this would be an easy change. It doesn't have tabs for disc brakes.U&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T22:52:57.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16592" CreationDate="2013-07-08T07:12:15.097" Score="3" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends convinced me to try clipless pedals, that I never trusted too much (BMX background). Now while I'm getting used to them and experience very funny falls, I try to figure out, can a used-to-cleats rider drop his foot in a sandy corner, or the only thing he can do is to get used to proper race style cornering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T16:41:10.073" Title="Is it possible to drop a foot in corners while using clipless pedals?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16591" CreationDate="2013-07-08T07:19:58.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is possible and some times necessary. It's best though if you already know the trail you are riding so you can prepare yourself at the right moment. For a classic example see in &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/YfMQdFGTKAs?start=67&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; how the rider unclips at 1:10 in order to save himself at 1:12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This of course will work well as long as you've set a moderate tension so you can unclip pretty easily (but not very very easily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T07:26:25.807" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T07:26:25.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2013-07-08T07:40:16.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rhinodillos.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rhinodillos Tire Liners&lt;/a&gt; or a similar product. These sit between your tire and tube and will significantly increase puncture resistance. Then make sure you keep your tires at the right pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7408" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T12:49:52.847" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T12:49:52.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-08T10:56:09.313" Score="1" ViewCount="2249" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What physical symptoms do I need to look for to understand that my brake is out of tuning or the cables have reached end of life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not necessary to consider the brake shoes in this question as I already have a previous question on bicycles SE covering that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MY USAGE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I ride everyday for work and fun. I cover about 20 miles on average every week but would be doing a lot more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MY REASONS FOR THIS QUESTION&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been tuning my front and rear brakes by either releasing the nuts near the handle or just adjusting the cable near the brake (i.e. where the noodle is). It seems that they are running out quicker than I though (i.e. running out of tuning). I really don't know what to do anymore. I know that a really bad way to do this is just replace the brake cables, but I just almost bought the bike (November 2012). I think there are better ways of tuning and managing the brake performance. I have attached some pictures for the users to see what I am talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qwqdq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YltLQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IDhAt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p1vAw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The posts that I found on Bicycles SE and youtube are not really helping me for this. My brakes run out of tuning a bit faster than I thought. If I am doing something wrong, a slap on the wrist will be appreciated! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TIA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE SINCE @DANIELRHICKS POSTED HIS ANSWER&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced my brakes whilst you folks were reading this and resulted into the followings now. Could anyone tell me if it seems wrong? Also, I am not sure if angle of my V arm of the brake is correct. Do I need to fix that too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y99Hc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NI1X5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WHAT I HAVE DONE TO FIX THE TENSION ISSUE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the brake pads are replaced. I opened up the nut to the maximum i.e. created the highest tension point. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjusted the cable attatchment (i.e. the attatchment of the cable with the allen-key joint near the noodle).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Slowly closed the nut inside (i.e. loosen the cable tension) so that the necessary gap between the pad and rim can be achieved, also the cable attatchment near the noodle is appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastEditorUserId="6420" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T17:26:19.630" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T17:26:19.630" Title="When to tune/replace brake cables for optimum tension" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16595" CreationDate="2013-07-08T11:14:01.800" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally you replace a cable when it becomes too badly rusted, or the cable inside begins to break.  The first condition you notice because the cable does not move freely, and the second you notice because the brake levers &quot;give&quot; (and don't bounce back) when you squeeze them hard.  If not rusty, a set of cables can easily last 10-20 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case it seems likely that the brake pads are simply wearing rapidly.  With V brakes, for 1mm of pad wear you'll need to take up about 3mm of cable slack.  If you're having to adjust the cable too often you may wish to change out your pads for something harder (though note that this will reduce braking power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T11:14:01.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16598" CreationDate="2013-07-08T12:03:05.277" Score="11" ViewCount="41706" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an old argue on forums, still cant get it. What is the (real, that worth the money and time for ordering from abroad, in my case) difference, let's say between &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=93011&quot;&gt;Five Ten FreeRider&lt;/a&gt; shoes and some kind of old school skate shoes (the fat ones, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://etnies.com/shop/fader-metal-mulisha-13/black-grey-black/&quot;&gt;these Etnies&lt;/a&gt;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S as far as I know most dirt BMXers are quite happy with regular skate shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastEditorUserId="5688" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T12:11:27.440" LastActivityDate="2018-04-16T08:54:03.423" Title="Skate shoes vs mtb shoes?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16597" CreationDate="2013-07-08T12:18:58.033" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to ride with skate shoes for a year and it was not good. I didn't know it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally skate shoes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bend more than MTB shoes so they'll not transfer all of your energy on the pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do not have sticky soles so riding on rough trails may be harder and more dangerous due to the feet constantly changing position on the pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding non racing BMXers they don't usually care about pedaling efficiency nor grip on their feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T12:18:58.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16861" CreationDate="2013-07-08T15:19:04.667" Score="4" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the manufacturer's website, and google don't appear to hold this information. The only thing I've found is that the hubs are aluminium which doesn't really help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a common size of wrench? If I get the size wrong I can always send it back but I'm guessing people who deal with road bikes a lot will know that there's a common set of sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T15:59:08.603" Title="What size cone wrench am I likely to need for a Trek 1.5 2011 Compact rear hub?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15795" CreationDate="2013-07-08T15:24:22.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good approximation can be made using some basic trigonometry and common sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will use WR as wheel radius (i.e. half the wheel diameter) and the numbers refer to the distance indicated in the picture you uploaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, the height of the vertical tube (aka the vertical projection of the tube) is just sin(5)*1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the distance between the ground and the bottom bracket is WR - 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the distance from the ground to the top tube would be H = sin(5)*1 + (WR - 8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7387" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T15:24:22.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2013-07-08T16:27:26.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like @user7373 I use Continental Gatorhardskins on my road bike and I'm really happy with them. They have survived a couple of sharp glass punctures (the outer case has a deep cut but the inner kevlar band is still unscathed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend to use the widest tyre you can fit on your rims, I use 27mm and they are a little bit more resilient than the usual 23mm wheel (if you're on 20mm race tyres you're just asking to get a wrecked wheel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7387" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T16:27:26.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16591" CreationDate="2013-07-08T16:41:10.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As your pedals age and cleats wear it will get much easier to unclip at a moments notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until then, you can try adjusting the tension of your pedals or do as I did and just ride at slower speeds until more comfortable with cornering while being locked in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with looser clips and experiance I still fall, but that wasn't any different then when I was using flats :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3811" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T16:41:10.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16597" CreationDate="2013-07-08T20:16:05.460" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flat pedal specific shoes usually have a special rubber compound, such as Five Ten's sticky rubber or Shimano (and others) Vibram sole (used in hiking shoes as well). The goal of these special rubber compounds is to better stick to the pins of the pedals and are therefore usually softer so as to get a good grip on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal experience with skate shoes is that their soles are harder and meant for gripping skate boards (hence the name) and thus focus on gripping a flat surface, instead of a set of pins. They also get dangerously slippery when wet for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat pedal specific shoes may also have other bike-specific features such as crank arm ankle protection and stiffer soles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T20:16:05.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16605" CreationDate="2013-07-08T22:08:52.060" Score="1" ViewCount="1106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for an entry level mountain bike. I plan on using it on real mountain bike trails, not just unpaved trails and greenways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, here's what I'd like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;good shifters/derailleurs that generally change gears in a predictable fashion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;good front suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rear suspension would be nice if I can get it without entering the &quot;prohibitively expensive&quot; zone, which for me is basically the four-digit range (maybe $1500 if it's too good to pass up)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not opposed to a used bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's ok if the bike isn't super light or made of the same stuff as the space shuttle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And are there some important considerations that I'm totally missing? The purpose of the bike would be to noodle around some of the excellent trails in Utah County, so the bike would take a bit of a beating from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7415" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-07-09T02:06:06.713" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T02:08:19.753" Title="What components are recommended for entry level mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16604" CreationDate="2013-07-08T22:59:01.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the short list of should haves in mostly descending order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coil or air sprung fork with rebound adjustment, minimum of 80mm travel. Specs any lower than this aren't actually meant for actual mountain biking. Maybe a little unpaved riding, but not mountain biking. Replacing a fork is expensive. Buy a bike with a fork as described and the subsequent parts listed here will almost certainly follow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double walled rims. Single walled rims suck and you will trash them. Double-walled rims are almost always stronger and longer lasting, and often lighter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least an 8 speed drivetrain. I'm just talking about the cassette (the rear gears). Multiply that with the 3 up front and you've got 24. This will give you decently tight gear ratios and keep you clear of the low quality parts that come in 7 speed configurations. If you're willing to spring for it, go 9 speed as much for the quality increase as anything else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical disc brakes. You can get by with V-brakes, but a nice pair of mechanicals (typically Avid BB5's or BB7's) will make a world of difference in terms of modulation. A word of warning though, some entry level hydraulics are worse than decent mechanicals. Make sure you try them and make sure they stop you before you buy. All disc brakes require a good handful of hard stops to achieve maximum power, so keep that in mind as well when test riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freehub rear wheel. Stronger and more durable than the older style thread on freewheel type hub.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cranks with removable chainrings. Cheaper cranks have riveted on chainrings which means when the chainrings are worn out you have to toss the whole crank. That's lame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here's what not to get if you're looking for best bang for your buck in a beginner/intermediate package:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything full suspension. Just don't bother at the low price point unless you have a really good reason. You'll get way more bike if you stick with a hardtail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything other than an aluminum or maybe steel frame. Aluminum is going to be the most common, steel usually disappears at the intermediate-ish price points, and then re-appears at high end price points. Aluminum is likely your ticket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything from a department store or anything from a brand that also sells at department stores. The brands that have fallen from grace have been bought up by big conglomerates and prey upon people with brand name recognition, especially at lower price points. Avoid.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-07-09T02:08:19.753" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T02:08:19.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16597" CreationDate="2013-07-09T00:32:46.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skate shoes are typically very flexible and this is terrible for cycling shoes!  Pick up a typical skate shoe and then try to bend it in half.  I have a pair that I can almost entirely bend in half.  Now go to a local bike shop and try to bend a road shoe in half.  You can't.  All of that flex is just wasted energy.  With a stiff sole your energy gets transferred directly to the pedal.  While it may not make a big difference on a short ride, it definitely adds up over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T00:32:46.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16587" CreationDate="2013-07-09T03:13:59.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's asume your levers are a correct match for the type of brake you have.  Also, let's assume that you have a &quot;normal&quot; strength in your hand (say, you can actually lock the wheel in another bike) There are a list of factors that decrease the braking power of a system, some are easier to overcome, I'll try to list them from the easiest to the most difficult/expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Braking surfaces are contaminated&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil is the most common, specially on rim brakes but can happen to disc brakes too. Dirt and debris can get stuck in rim brake pads an even in some rims. For rim brakes my preferred cleaning method is washing the rim and pads with liquid dishwashing  soap, aided with a half worn dish washing pad (the normal ones are usually green, but there are white ones that are softer an designed for anti adherent coated cookware, these can be used new). Be sure to wash the contact surface of the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pads have cristalized surface due to excessive heat, they are &quot;too hard&quot; on the surface, so they do not provide enough friction. Cristalized rim brake pads have black and shiny bands in the contact surface. That can be cleaned using medium grit sandpaper (240 to 600). Buff the surface just enough to reveal the still porous rubber underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are small dirt particles, metal shreds our other foreign material embedded in the pads, they reduce friction and scratch rim's surface, remove them using a sharp tool, like a thin screwdriver, a spike or a large seewing needle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium rims can be cleaned with the same soap and washing pads. If necesary, a slight resurfacing can be done with near 800 grit sandpaper. This is specially useful if  rubber  has stuck to rim surface (you'd see small black stripes of rubber in the braking surface of the rim). Steel rims, specially the crome plated should be cleaned with the same soap, but  use a towel instead of a scrubbing pad. Do not use sandpaper on cromed rims, you'll damage the finish and the rim will start to corrode earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc Brakes are less prone to contamination but are still vulnerable. Oil can get in the rotors and be draged to the pads. The rotors can be cleaned with dishwashing liquid ad a towel, or rubbing alcohol and a clean rag. Disc brake pads that become contaminated with oil can be very difficult to clean. Some types can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol,  but if the problemm is too aggravated it may be better to change  them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brake pad cristalization is more difficult to identify but the main symptom is a shiny surface (normally the surface is dull) medium fine sandpaper can be used to solve the problem, grit 1000 or approximate. Note that the material of some disc brake pads have metal particles as part of their composition, so small shiny grains are normal in those cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Incorrect adjustment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are so many different types of brakes, and so many different designs among them that I cannot give extensive advice, so my recommendation is to  refer to the user's manual if available. Common  types of brakes like v-brakes are well known and there is plenty of tutorials available. Most of them (including the ones shown in the OP pictures) can be adjusted using the same instructions, so, almost any adjustment or installatin manual would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for lever reach, travel and position how ever, a badly adjusted lever may give you a hard time. Reach is how far you have to strech your fingers to actually start to pull  the lever. Travel is how much you need to move the lever before the brakes engage.  Position is wether the lever is actually within the reach zone of your hand. Particularly, travel and position can reduce your ability to actuate the lever, thus your braking power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lever travel should be such that the brakes engage when your hand is in the strongest part of the grip.  If the travel is too short  your fingers are too stretched to pull effectively, if its too long your fingers are too curled or the lever bottoms out against the handlebar. The lever should also be in an angle that doesn't force you to bend your wrist in order to actuate or reach it, the hand should remain in a fairly natural position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most levers have  small bolt near the handle pivot for reach adjustment. Travel can be adjusted by changing cable tension. Position and angle is adjusted by loosening the fixing bolt, reposition the lever and tighten the fixing bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Old or wrong pads&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aged pads loose flexibility and turn into hard bricks that do not povide friction. Also, there are pads made of a too hard compound with the same consequences. Most brake pads are not expensive, so replacing them should not be too difficult. Finding the best pads is the difficult task, as there are too many options available. You may need to try several options before finding your personal favourite, but once you do, it pays back highly. Do not trust internet reviews to much, as you don't actually know the reviwer or the use he/she tried to do with the items. If possible, ask a fellow rider who uses a similar setup and does a similar type of riding, borrow te bike for a little brake test and observe what pads are installed. Note the make and model of the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cables in bad condition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a cable is bent, rusted or dirt inside the casing it causes additional friction. You have to  overcome this friction to actuate the brake, so it also lessens your braking power. Cables should be inspected disconnecting them and testing if they slide easily in and out. Any fraying, rusting, casing crushed, bent, worn, is also a bad sign. The most straightforward solution is to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stuck pivots&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vbrakes, cantilever brakes, and caliper rim brakes can suffer from being stuck due to rust or dirt and clogged oil or grease. To test,  disconect the cable and actuate them directly by hand. They should move smoothly and easily, opposed only slightly by the return spring. Shall this test fail, disassembly, cleaning, lubricating and re-assembly should fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some mechanical disc brakes can suffer from this too. Hydraulic brakes don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bad design / wrong application&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brake systems are simply not good enough. They don't have the right proportions to give the required mechanical advantage or are made with bad quality materials that flex too esily. On the other hand they may just be fitted to a bike they were not designed for. If you got the bike fully assembld from a reputble dealer, and it is from a reputable maker, this is the less likely case, but if all the tests and possible adjusntments have been made, and yet you cant't get the braking power needed, the only solution may be to change the model, brand or type of brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2013-07-09T19:57:49.827" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T19:57:49.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16564" CreationDate="2013-07-09T03:31:18.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your wheel is overtensioned. That is not good as it will eventually lead to premature failure somewhere, maybe worse than you're currently experiencing.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the case of wheels that don't come as manufacturers' sets, ie the spokes, hubs, and rims were all purchased separately, the spoke and the rim and even the hub are going to have different maximum tensions. In this case if you overtension the rim it will either not stay true or crack at the spoke holes- in extreme cases it can even encourage the wheel to taco under less lateral load. If the spokes are overtensioned they will eventually snap. Should the hub have the lowest maximum tension and you overtension it you run the risk of breaking the hub flange.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the case where the wheel comes as a manufacturer's set (for example, many high end Mavic and Shimano wheelsets have compoenents that are all proprietary and only work with a given wheelset), you're going to have a maximum tension which is still going to be limited by one of the aforementioned components but you likely wont know which one. Same rules apply though- something will prematurely fail if you keep the wheel overtensioned.  &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You need to let the tension down instead of bringing it up to get the dish correct. How old are your wheels? If they're relatively new you may have a warranty issue on your hand, although you may have voided said warranty by overtensioning the wheel. If the wheels are old, it's important that spokes have a fatigue life just like everything else and you may be hitting it. Often when you get close to the fatigue life of the spokes on your wheel you'll bust one after another until you relace the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T03:31:18.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-09T07:40:01.917" Score="3" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I think it'd be cool - for goal setting for example - if I could keep track of my elevation change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, the local cyclocomputers I looked at seem to use barometric pressure to determine the change.  This is fine, unless some weather is moving in, which happens not infrequently in the Midwestern United States.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do some of them try to use an inclinometer, your speed, and some math you learn in Calculus II to keep track of your change?  That would seem more accurate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could try to use a GPS meter, but those things are expensive -  and based on back when I had service to my smart phone, not guaranteed to match my car's odometer for distance even - I've read from some other riders that the distance varies at least slightly from local measurement on a bike as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alternatively&lt;/em&gt;, let's say that I ride along a known route.  Is there any good way of plotting that route for elevation change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="7136" LastEditDate="2013-07-09T21:34:28.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:25:15.910" Title="Finding Elevation Change, any method" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;navigation&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16609" CreationDate="2013-07-09T08:16:26.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest on-the-road solution is to get a detailed paper (walker's?) map with contour lines. In the UK, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shop.ordnancesurveyleisure.co.uk/products/paper-maps/paper-maps-ordnance-survey-great-britain?_s_ref=PdPm75f8S&amp;amp;kw=%22ordnance%20survey%22&amp;amp;creative=13900813620&amp;amp;gclid=COOd-fP7obgCFXQftAodrTkAMw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ordnance Survey&lt;/a&gt; provide these, for the USA you could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.omnimap.com/catalog/int/hiking.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Omnimap&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, there are plenty of online tools, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freemaptools.com/elevation-finder.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;freemaptools.com&lt;/a&gt; which use Google Maps. You click on a point and it gives you the elevation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T08:16:26.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16599" CreationDate="2013-07-09T08:16:54.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Q&amp;amp;A section on Wiggle I need a 15 / 16mm wrench:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tools-double-ended-cone-wrench/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tools-double-ended-cone-wrench/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T08:16:54.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-09T09:00:13.183" Score="3" ViewCount="7372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek 1.5 2011 compact road bike that I abused a bit too much over winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear hub has quite a lot of sideways play on it and I am buying the tools needed to hopefully fix this. My concern is that even if I manage to remove the play on the hub the bearings will still be ruined (fairly likely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd like to avoid is having to remove any spokes.. the idea of building a new wheel scares me quite a bit! Or perhaps I'm being afraid for no reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd like to know is what my options are if I find the bearings have had it. I don't really know what I'm talking about but in an ideal world I'd just replace the hub with a drop in replacement. Does that exist? :) I don't mind getting my hands dirty, but at the same time I want to ensure I have a bike to ride!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T04:08:29.063" Title="Replacing rear hub, beginners advice required" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16609" CreationDate="2013-07-09T11:24:12.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My solution to the problem is to grab my phone, record my biking trajectory with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sports-tracker.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sports tracker&lt;/a&gt; (no data plan is needed) and get an estimation of the elevation (total number of meters uphill, and total number of meters downhill) with the help of GPS. For this you'll have to have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a smart phone with a gps (android, apple ios, nokia, or microsoft phone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;create a free account on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sports-tracker.com/%E2%80%8E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.sports-tracker.com&lt;/a&gt; (no adds, spam, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install the app on your phone (with e.g., wifi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;climb on the bike, start gps, start the app, start recording your workout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;jump off the bike, stop the workout, save and sync the workout. In case you have a data plan, it will be uploaded on the server. In case you are not - you'll need to sync the workout when you'll have the wifi connection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;open the workout in the web site of the sports tracker, check the accumulated downhill and uphill values and the elevation graph&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am afraid that you cannot see the elevation in the phone itself with the help of sports-tracker. It is computed after you upload your trajectory to their server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Estimating the elevation is a tricky problem and may be quite inaccurate (in contrast to lat/lon estimation of the GPS coordinates). In case you need something a lot more precise, you may export your path in sports tracker as gmx track, import that into google maps and get a bit better estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ever plan to move to Europe/Germany then you could use &lt;a href=&quot;http://openrouteservice.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;open route service developed by some Academic institution (but which one?)&lt;/a&gt;, save your trajectory as gmx file, and get the elevation visualized with the help of e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/profile?output_elevation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GPS Visualizer&lt;/a&gt;. See screenshorts below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you find the post useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7o6yq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;open route service screen shot&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzSAa.png&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/elevation&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PqPl.png&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/profile?output_elevation&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6541" LastEditorUserId="6541" LastEditDate="2013-07-09T12:17:48.103" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T12:17:48.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16624" CreationDate="2013-07-09T11:27:36.777" Score="5" ViewCount="1805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding my bike about 450 miles and following the last ride I noticed the tyre had deformed. I'm riding them at 110 psi, just before the deformation you can see a skid mark. Could it have been down to that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iP5RS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wonky tyre&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5775" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T02:46:46.447" Title="What could cause a tyre to deform in this way?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16597" CreationDate="2013-07-09T20:50:15.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own plenty skate shoes from Vans and ipath. I have tried riding in them and they don't feel any better than an average sneaker. I switched to riding flat pedals about over a year ago and tried my first pair of Five Ten's Free Rider!! Holy wow!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a stealth rubber sole that is torsionally stiff giving you solid platform for an efficient downward pedal stroke while gripping the flat pedal pins like a damn magnet!! &#xA;I now own 6 pairs of various Five ten shoes - Dirtbag Mid, Spitfire mid, free rider and freerunner!! They're the best shoe ever!! solid toe box and well cushioned heel cup give you all the protection you need!! I actually use my free riders when i go longboarding... damn things stick to the grip tape like rare earth magnets!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caution: The spitfire mid's are a great shoe but almost so grippy that you may at times find it hard to adjust your foot position on the pedals - very rare case but is true!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely worth every penny!! And they look cool too so you can wear the out casually as well... that is - if that is your style!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Five Tens for life or until they stop making them!! I'm really considering the new Vxi's!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7424" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T20:50:15.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16618" CreationDate="2013-07-09T21:07:28.447" Score="4" ViewCount="5248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking of buying an internally-geared folding bike for commuting (5 km each way) and errands. I want to spend $100-$200, but I want a reasonable-quality frame; I don't want to ever have to replace the frame with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see a bunch of &quot;Auto-Mini&quot; folding bikes for sale on Craigslist in my city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are the frames: are they well-made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How's the bikes' ride quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I've read that the frames are prone to cracking. Is the Auto-Mini still a reasonable choice, considering the criteria I mentioned above?]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T16:21:07.370" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T08:24:53.767" Title="What's an &quot;Auto-Mini&quot; folding bike? Can I use one for decades without having to replace the frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16617" CreationDate="2013-07-09T21:07:28.447" Score="9" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Auto-Mini folding bikes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto-Mini folding bikes were made by the Austrian corporation Steyr-Daimler-Puch AG in the early 1970s; the bikes were usually sold in department stores. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foldingcyclist.com/Auto-Mini-folding-bike.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Folding Cyclist, 2016&lt;/a&gt;.) In North America, vendors included J.C. Penney, Montgomery-Ward, and Simpsons-Sears. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://thecabe.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?1035-montgomery-ward-1971-auto-mini-bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thebikeguy, 2007&lt;/a&gt;; &lt;a href=&quot;http://search.bikelist.org/beta/TreeView.aspx?id=237529&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Martin, 1996&lt;/a&gt;; &lt;a href=&quot;http://punchbuggy.blogspot.com/2011/08/fascinating-folder.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas, 2011b&lt;/a&gt;;&#xA;cf. &lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080404000657AARve64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bikeworks, c. 1998&lt;/a&gt;.) In my experience, the main-tube sticker always says &quot;Auto-Mini&quot; in huge type, with the word &quot;Junior&quot; in faint type inside the letter &quot;T&quot; of the word &quot;Auto&quot;. The head badge may have &quot;Executive&quot;, &quot;Iverson&quot;, &quot;Senator&quot;, or another &quot;brand name&quot; on it; this varies according to which store sold the bike. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.foldingcyclist.com/Auto-Mini-folding-bike.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Folding Cyclist, 2016&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They have 20&quot; wheels. Like most small-wheeled folding mikes, an Auto-Mini can be adjusted to fit an adult or a child (cf. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usedottawa.com/classified-ad/Auto-Mini-Executive-Folding-bike-1972-made-in-Austria-white_17935849&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UsedOttawa, 2012&lt;/a&gt;). An Auto-Mini uses a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket#Thompson&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thompson&lt;/a&gt;-style bottom bracket. Keep it lubricated (&lt;a href=&quot;http://oldroads.com/arch/TAN2008_1_215_07_48_PM.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scott, 2008&lt;/a&gt;), as it's a hassle to replace it with a modern bottom bracket (&lt;a href=&quot;http://drumbent.com/folders.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rehder, 2007&lt;/a&gt;, quoting Chen).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There were at least two distinct types of Auto-Mini. They differ slightly: for example, one has a slightly-larger frame; one has a slightly-smaller one (&lt;a href=&quot;http://crapocalypse.blogspot.com/2009/09/auto-mini-executive.html#c3068022002925055742&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas, 2011c&lt;/a&gt;). Thomas bought the slightly-larger type (&lt;a href=&quot;http://crapocalypse.blogspot.com/2009/09/auto-mini-executive.html#c3068022002925055742&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas, 2011c&lt;/a&gt;) and provided a detailed parts list in a blog entry (&lt;a href=&quot;http://punchbuggy.blogspot.com/2011/06/bespoked.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thomas, 2011a&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the frame and the ride quality:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I have a few of them myself and find that they are a good sturdy riding bike.&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://oldroads.com/arch/TAN2008_1_215_07_48_PM.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scott, 2008&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;They are prone to cracking where the main tube intersects with the seat tube. There are fixes&quot;. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://drumbent.com/folders.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rehder, 2007&lt;/a&gt;, quoting Chen).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;For some reason I find these ride nicer than the other old folders &amp;mdash; maybe they got the wheelbase just right or the weight is a little less. I own a few (they're cheap) and they suffer from frame breakage in a couple of places; where the seat tube meets the bottom bracket shell (too much stress) and where the two thin seat stay tubes meet the seat tube (lousy welds). If you can weld, you can improve the frame by adding a piece of tubing between the bottom bracket shell and the main tube. Otherwise, ride gently.&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/28675377@N04/2842701174/#comment72157627588715513&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seal, 2011&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In sum, if you want a quality frame, spend more and buy something better than an Auto-Mini. &quot;Spending $100 - $200 on a folding bike won't get you quality of any sort. Folding bikes with quality frames are significantly more expensive. You may want to save up for a bit before buying, or find a way to get a non-folding bike.&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16617/whats-an-auto-mini-folding-bike-can-i-use-one-for-decades-without-having-to#comment28925_16617&quot;&gt;Fein, 2013&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;One possible alternative to an Auto-Mini: a Raleigh Twenty&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among vintage folding bikes, the Raleigh Twenty is a better bike overall (cf. &lt;a href=&quot;http://drumbent.com/folders.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rehder, 2007&lt;/a&gt;). The Twenty's main deficiency is its braking power &amp;mdash; which is &quot;barely adequate&quot; in dry conditions, and non-existent in the rain. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://drumbent.com/folders.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rehder, 2007&lt;/a&gt;). For safety reasons, if you buy a Twenty, you should probably upgrade it in order to correct this deficiency; there are various ways do so (&lt;a href=&quot;http://raleightwenty.webs.com/upgradesmodifications.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Martin, 2012&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Postscript&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please feel free to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/posts/16618/edit&quot;&gt;edit&lt;/a&gt; this post and add more information or your own personal opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2017-09-28T08:24:53.767" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T08:24:53.767" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-07-09T21:07:28.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16541" CreationDate="2013-07-09T21:33:20.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility: if the chain is very worn, you might get erratic shifting.  Use a chain checker if the chain has more than a few thousand miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T21:33:20.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16609" CreationDate="2013-07-09T21:35:35.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barometric pressure is not the only feasible method to track altitude, but is by far the more practical in terms of power requirements (I have a watch that lasts 2 years on a battery with altitude), size and cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GPS Altitude is wildly inaccurate due to the geometry of the satellites. Unfortunately to cope with very small signal errors you need a satellite below you, but the signal cannot get though the earth, so GPS altitude will never be as accurate as its position reports.  However, a GPS track, overlaid on a topo map with contours gives a reasonable approximation. Be warned though that in mountainous country a few meters of error and result in significant error in reported altitude, especially in forested terrain. It comes down to the accuracy of the maps, and the GPS track - on flat / rolling ground with accurate maps, it works well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incline meters and Accelerometers do not work on there own. However, with a connection to the wheel for speed sensing, they can use acceleration and speed and work out incline, therefore height gain. I am not aware anyone does this... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inertial navigation systems (based on gyros and accelerometers) can achieve what you require - after all, that is all the space shuttle had to go on, but comes at a cost and weight that blows most peoples budgets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this leaves us with barometric pressure and its one limitation - it is affected by weather. I have successfully use it (in conjunction with a map) while climbing mountains in complete white out (10ft visibility) to accurately navigate over a 10 hour day.  The trick is to recalibrate if a weather system is likely to be affecting it, and be aware that weather systems do affect it and in what way. When you get to a point of known altitude, check what the meter is says, and either recalibrate or note the error. If you do this once every hour or two, the error will be small, unless there's a severe weather system crossing over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are systems that combine GPS with barometric pressure and overlay the track onto topo maps. These probably give the best solution of all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T21:35:35.153" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16587" CreationDate="2013-07-10T01:17:11.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you're adjusting the position of the brake pads, you must squeeze the brake and check the closed position. The pads should line up nicely with the rim in the braking position. With the pads loosened, squeeze the brake with one hand, and adjust their position with the other hand, without losing a grip on the brake, and tighten them to fix the positions. Then release the brake and tighten the pads more, to fully secure them, ensuring that they do not rotate or move during tightening. Squeeze the brake again and check the position and fix if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that you understand the brake wear compensation bolt, located at the grip. As the brake pads wear, this hollow bolt is unscrewed to compensate (tighten the cable). It has a nut on it which is then used to tighten it in a given position. Manipulating this bolt and nut is a key skill for the cyclist with these types of brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wear compensation bolt can be a useful tool in setting up the brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the bolt almost all the way out (loosening it tightens the Bowden cable).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, loosen the cable retaining bolt at the brake, and squeeze the brake all the way to the rim. Now clamp the cable securely in this position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brake now cannot be used because it is tightly closed. However, the wear compensation bolt on the brake handle is unscrewed almost the way out. What you do now is screw that bolt all the way in, which opens up the brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to use some kind of shim between one of the pads and the rim when squeezing the brake. Clamp the cable and remove the shim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;em&gt;V-brakes are strong when you have correctly positioned pads in good condition, with about 1/8&quot; clearance from the rim of a wheel that is clean and true, everything is tight, and the cable and brake lever hardware are in good condition. *&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wheel has significant runout, you can still have decent braking power, because the V-brake arms will move from side to side to track the runout. However, the brake pads may rub on the wheel when you are not using the brake, which robs you of energy and wears the pads. Learn how to true a wheel, or have it done. (If you have it done, you might as well have the shop tune up your brakes for a package deal tune up price.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastEditorUserId="5088" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T01:32:20.380" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T01:32:20.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16615" CreationDate="2013-07-10T02:12:58.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is 110 psi higher than the recommended tire pressure on the side of that tire?&#xA;Looks like several cords/threads were overstressed and torn in the casing.  Is your tire gauge accurate?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did bike shop employee say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7428" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T02:12:58.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16615" CreationDate="2013-07-10T02:46:46.447" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The casing is giving way underneath the tread. The casing is made up of woven threads that give the tire its shape and strength. Don't ride it this way as it can get worse or fail catastrophically (blow out).&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; You need a new tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T02:46:46.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-10T04:21:50.947" Score="4" ViewCount="7476" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every new bike in my price range comes with a compact crankset, which I want for climbing, but I race and I need to keep the same top speed that I've had for sprinting and descending (I live in the mountains). So I'm just wondering what rear cassette I would need to use with my compact cranks to equal the same gearing as using a normal crankset (53/39) with a 11-28 cassete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7429" LastEditorUserId="1090" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T12:53:58.803" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T23:45:01.860" Title="What cassete do I need to run with a compact crankset (50/36), to equal the same gearing as running a standard crankset (53/39) with a 11-28 cassete?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16609" CreationDate="2013-07-10T04:50:00.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;RideWithGps.com does exactly what you want; you can plot a route ahead of time and it will show you the elevation profile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T04:50:00.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16625" CreationDate="2013-07-10T11:33:25.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are interested in top speed I assume that means you really want to replicate the 53/11 combo. One way of finding a similar combination is by looking at a ratio of the front and back gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 53/11 gear ratio will give you a gain of 4.81.&#xA;A 50/11 gear ratio will give you a gain of 4.54.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recover the .27 difference you would need to run a 10.4 (or 10) tooth top gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4015" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T11:33:25.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16625" CreationDate="2013-07-10T12:59:04.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecalc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikecalc&lt;/a&gt; to calculate the ratios or gear inches for yourself.  Then you can figure out range equivalent setups for any combination of chainrings / cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T12:59:04.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-10T14:16:57.703" Score="10" ViewCount="4131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what happens when rolling backwards while pedaling forward&#xA;on a freecoaster bike? I mean does it gradually slow it down, or does it come&#xA;to an abrupt hault? I have not tried it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7435" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T16:33:25.347" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T07:37:25.347" Title="Rolling backwards while pedaling forward on a Freecoaster" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16629" CreationDate="2013-07-10T15:28:55.967" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unclear whether the question is about &quot;freewheel&quot; hubs or &quot;coaster brake&quot; hubs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a freewheel hub, if you roll backwards, the pedals will necessarily turn backwards.  If you &quot;lock&quot; the pedals with your feet it will be impossible to roll backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the standard coaster brake hub, if you roll backwards and do not exert any force forwards or backwards on the pedals, the pedals will not move and you will roll freely backwards.  &quot;Back pedaling&quot; will apply the brakes, and pedaling forward even a little will engage the pedals with the wheel and hence convey the motion of the wheel to the pedals (and vice-versa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Though I have to admit that it's been so long since I've used coaster brakes that I may be misremembering some details.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T15:28:55.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-10T16:05:39.790" Score="2" ViewCount="2274" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I run a SRAM road (apex/rival/force/red) rear derailleur with downtube shifters?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I though you might be able to mount the bar-end shifters on downtube, but it seems like they are a ratcheting type as opposed to the usual downtube shifter design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard that shimano shifters will probably not pull enough cable in friction mode to accommodate the entire cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to do this properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T00:58:11.920" Title="Can I run a SRAM road rear derailleur with downtube shifters?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16629" CreationDate="2013-07-10T16:28:16.930" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there is some confusion about the difference between a Freecoaster hub, a Freewheeling hub, and a Coaster brake hub. So briefly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;freewheel hub&lt;/strong&gt; is by far the most abundant and utilized piece of bicycling technology and relies on a ratchet and pawl mechanism (or similar) to engage the drivetrain while pedaling forward, but allows coasting when not pedaling. Any freewheel or cassette hub uses this technology.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;coaster brake&lt;/strong&gt; is a type of brake that is built into the hub shell that turns backward pedal force into braking force. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;Freecoaster hub&lt;/strong&gt; uses a clutch mechanism to engage the hub shell while pedaling forward, but disengages the hub while pedaling or coasting backward. This allows you to coast backwards without having to move your pedals. They are totally silent because there are no pawls!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NhlS0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Freecoaster&quot;&gt;&#xA;Above is a hastily drawn sketch of a freecoaster hub. There are no pawls...instead is a cone shaped clutch which is threaded onto the driver body which extends over the axle. The driver cog on the left is supported on the axle by bearings on either side (there are also lots of other bits and pieces, but these are the general parts.) When pedaled forward the driver threads through the clutch and pulls it into the wedged surface of the hub. The friction between the hub and the clutch is what drives you forward. When you change directions (or pedal backwards) the driver threads the clutch to a backstop which adjusts the play from freecoasting to pedaling forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to pedal forwards while coasting backwards, your pedal force would engage the clutch into the hub shell. -- As @Daniel R Hicks pointed out, this is pretty much the same mechanism that a coaster brake utilizes except in reverse. Pedaling forward ought to engage the clutch and slow you down. --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However...I'm not sure that I recommend that you do this because neither the clutch surface nor the hub shell are designed for slowing, only for engaging. (If anybody has more info on the actual construction of the hub shell...whether there is a steel insert to bear against and provide braking support, or whether the driver and hub shell are forward motion only, please edit away.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04O9q8-kRx4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a fantastic video about freecoaster anatomy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T03:34:44.923" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T03:34:44.923" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2013-07-10T17:44:41.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vintage English bicycle wheels (1950-1960) sometimes had a 3-cross NOT-interlace pattern from the manufacturer (I own one).  Interlacing did not become &quot;standard practice&quot; (accepted without question) until the mid-1960s. Interlacing is now &quot;always&quot; done, perhaps because there is little disadvantage while providing the advantage of additional lateral stiffness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7439" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T17:44:41.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16516" CreationDate="2013-07-10T18:35:16.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sweep up your garage floor already and keep your tires at maximum pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Minneapolis, ride a surly cross-check, and rarely have flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T18:35:16.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16651" CreationDate="2013-07-10T19:10:29.060" Score="12" ViewCount="2786" Body="&lt;p&gt;When replacing the cones for a front hub with new ones, is it okay to tighten the lock nut directly against the cone nut?  Or must I use some kind of spacer / washer / shim in order for some other reason than spacing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is that I am replacing the cones on a front hub that was correctly spaced at 100mm.  The old setup has &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Lock nut - Washer - Cone nut - Hub/Cups - Cone nut - Washer - Lock nut&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The replacement cones I got match in the old ones in all ways except that they are slightly wider (i.e. take more space of the axle).  So, instead of getting two more cones ($20 more dollars!), I figured I could just leave out the old washers and leave the setup like this, which would be spaced about 100mm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Lock nut -      New Cone nut - Hub/Cups - New Cone nut      - Lock nut&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, would this be alright?  Does the original washer play any other role than just making the spacing correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T01:55:35.810" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T01:55:35.810" Title="Do I require a washer/spacer/shim between a hub's cone nut and lock nut?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16632" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:18:28.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you set the downtube shifter to friction mode then you can run any rear derailleur you want. If you're looking for indexed downtube shifting with a SRAM rear derailleur, the answer as of the date of this posting is no. Cable pull for SRAM is different than it is for Shimano and others, which is why mixing different brands of shifters and derailleurs is not advisable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T23:51:43.143" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T23:51:43.143" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:21:39.783" Score="1" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old 27&quot; road bike in a long, lazy and cheapish process of restoration. I'd like to put 28&quot; wheels on, which requires 4mm longer brake reach. The bicycle used to have fenders and the existing 27&quot; rim is already a bit far from the fork crown (and from the caliper bolt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an idea to try to deepen the fork dropout in order to get the wheel closer to the crown, there seems to be enough space to do that, and still keep enough to get the axle bolt tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason I shouldn't do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T20:26:33.427" Title="Deepening the front fork dropout" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;27-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16639" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:26:33.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes- structural integrity and your own well being. 4mm is a lot of metal to remove in the scheme of things. If I were you I would be looking for a long reach brake caliper instead of modifying the dropout by removing material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T20:26:33.427" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:35:32.473" Score="4" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume the best advantage to ceramic rims would be the ability to shed water easier due to their relative flatness. How much better are they? Does it make that much of a difference when breaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-09-20T21:35:47.497" LastActivityDate="2020-07-04T23:17:27.527" Title="How much better are ceramic rims at wicking away water" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;ceramic&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16645" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:42:01.887" Score="1" ViewCount="2991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not yet built a wheel (or even replaced a broken spoke), so it's not quite clear to me what a nipple driver is. I also didn't find any reference on Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wheelbuilding&lt;/a&gt; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a nipple driver and how is it used? Is it a necessity or a convenience? Would I use one when replacing a broken spoke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T00:23:40.037" Title="What is a nipple driver and would I use one to replace a broken spoke?" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:43:41.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 700x23c tires with 120 psi recommended. &#xA;In my experience my tires lost about 5-10 psi in a day with riding and slightly more if I don't ride for a day or two. I check the pressure and fill it to recommended before every ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid pinch flats, and damage to wheel-set, check and fill tires to right pressure before each ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T20:43:41.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16629" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:49:56.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer: You will probably fall on your back, so it's not a good idea to try doing this on high speed fackies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer: As answered before me, you stop. That's why most of BMX freecoasters have quite big angle of free crank turn (and it's even adjustiable in some models, like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.khebikes.com/2013/adjust-freecoaster-gap-p-1264.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KHE feecoaster&lt;/a&gt;), so when you land in fackie (for example from 180 from stairs) even if you go a bit forwards on the pedals (and it's quite reasonable you'll do it), you still be able to roll back. Otherwise you would be flying on your back (same thing like when you lock your front brake). Note, this way you can't do lots of tricks that are meant to do with tailtap (360 with taps, brakeless tailtap and so on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastEditorUserId="5688" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T20:57:35.977" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T20:57:35.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16642" CreationDate="2013-07-10T22:12:48.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a conventional nipple wrench turns the nipple by the exposed flat surfaces that protrude from the rim, a nipple driver turns the nipple from the inside of the wheel.To replace a single spoke you can use a spoke wrench or a driver. Some people find it easier  starting  the nipple onto the spoke with a driver than with a wrench. If you were truing a wheel the wrench is easier as the tire and tube need not be removed. If you remove the tire, tube and the rim strip you will see the head of the nipple. If you are building a wheel it is more efficient to use the driver to start each nipple on to the spoke. To replace a single spoke you can use a spoke wrench or a driver. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T22:12:48.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16625" CreationDate="2013-07-10T22:49:20.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's not possible. You'd gain lower gears, but lose your very highest gear.&lt;/strong&gt; If you want to keep that highest gear, maybe you should look at a wider-range cassette to get there, instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were switching from a 53/39,12-28 setup to a 50/34,11-28 setup, it would work out well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching your largest chainring from 53 to 50 basically shifts all your high gears about 1 notch lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11 teeth is the smallest cog you can get on a road bike cassette, currently. I've seen BMX bikes with a smaller gear on the back, but they're not cassette based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can compare gear ratios on a given bike (where wheel diameter, tire width and crank length can all be assumed to be a constant with simple division.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your 11-28 is 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28, or similar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;53:11 = 4.8&#xA;53:12 = 4.4&#xA;53:13 = 4.1&#xA;...&#xA;39:21 = 1.9&#xA;39:24 = 1.6&#xA;39:28 = 1.4   &#xA;&#xA;50:11 = 4.5&#xA;50:12 = 4.2&#xA;50:13 = 3.8&#xA;...&#xA;36:21 = 1.7&#xA;36:24 = 1.5&#xA;36:28 = 1.3&#xA;... or if it's the more common 50/34:&#xA;34:21 = 1.6&#xA;34:24 = 1.4&#xA;34:28 = 1.2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T23:45:01.860" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T23:45:01.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7368" CreationDate="2013-07-11T00:10:33.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Right after the threads??&quot;&#xA;Maybe you're saying the solution is like this:  Hold one pedal with the platform part in your left hand with the spindle (the black part with the threads thst screws into the crank arm) pointing to the right.  Immediately to the left of the threads, check the largest diameter part of the spindle (the black part that screws in).  Only one of the two pedals will have a groove cut into it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7443" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T00:10:33.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16642" CreationDate="2013-07-11T00:23:40.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wanted to add some photos of nipple drivers to augment @mikes's answer. Some are hex-shaft drill mounted drivers (top), some have straight screwdriver handles, others have offset handles to speed wheel building (bottom). They're handy for building up wheels quickly, but you need a proper spoke wrench for truing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6X6i7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nipple Driver Head&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bsoU8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nipple Driver&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T00:23:40.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16625" CreationDate="2013-07-11T01:53:51.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;11-26.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't get higher gear combination than 53/11 with a 50, 11 is the smallest cog available.&#xA;And 53/28 is about equal to 50/26. Hopefully it will be more comfortable because the tighter gear ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T01:53:51.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-11T02:00:36.130" Score="6" ViewCount="1647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to road bicycles, sorry if this question is beat to death. What I'm wondering is what to measure as far as frame clearance, rim width, etc. to put the 'widest tires that will fit' on my road bike for durability purposes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is more or less a glorified BSO, and because of this I can't find any real specifications other than the amazon.com page: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B002D126EW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Victory-Vision-Mens-Road-Bike/dp/B002D126EW&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wgbQE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Victory Vision Road Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones that came on it are unmarked, but appear to be 27mm or 28mm, the rim width is 25mm. How do I know whether 32mm or larger will fit before buying them, without rubbing and such?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-02-03T17:41:07.753" LastActivityDate="2019-02-03T17:41:07.753" Title="How wide of tires can I run on a Victory Vision road bicycle?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16636" CreationDate="2013-07-11T02:21:36.720" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just rebuilt a totally stock Shimano wheel set and it had locknuts touching cones all over the place. Go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T02:21:36.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16282" CreationDate="2013-07-11T05:17:23.710" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some good answers here, but none describes a pre-ride check that is both quick and covers the main problem points encountered with Citi Bikes. These cruisers are special. They are extremely heavy, they can only be ridden in short spurts, there is nearly always a dock within a 10-minute walk, and the bikes are used and abused by riders and passersby that don't give a snot about them. As I've come to discover, there's a special way to give these special bikes a once-over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Choose the right seat position&lt;/strong&gt; - Citi Bike is all about convenient, quick rides. Save time by choosing a bike that's pre-adjusted for you (you'll be able to eye the right seat height after just a couple rides). And don't pick a bike if its seat is twisted around backwards. That's a sign that a previous rider found the bike busted.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check tires for air&lt;/strong&gt; - The &lt;a href=&quot;https://citibikenyc.com/riding-tips#preride&quot;&gt;official pre-ride check&lt;/a&gt; tells Citi Bike riders to spin wheels and check tires for cuts and bulges. No doubt a few rare riders will jump on bikes with noticeably misaligned wheels and burst tires, but that hasn't happened to me. And if one day it does, then I'll just drop off that broken, but still kind of ridable bike at the nearest station (twist the seat) and pick up a new one. The official guidelines are overkill. More important than the precise condition of the tires &amp;amp; wheels is that you choose a bike that's pumped up with sufficient air. A quick tire squeeze will do. This is without a doubt the most important thing you can do before undocking a Citi Bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check pedals for damage&lt;/strong&gt; - I've come across a few Citi Bikes that have sustained torn pedal treads. Sometimes these treads flop of fly, causing a minor inconvenience. But if a pedal tread is damaged in just the right way, who knows, maybe it could get caught in your chain and ruin your week. Don't pick the bike with that perfect storm of a torn pedal tread -- or any Citi Bike with noticeably damaged pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check handlebars &amp;amp; seat for scum&lt;/strong&gt; - Citi Bikes are public bikes. This is New York City. Give your seat and handlebars a quick once-over before you go for a ride. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow these rules and you'll give yourself a pretty good chance of finding one of the Citi Bikes at the station that's not &quot;a piece of shit.&quot; Follow the official pre-ride guidelines or a list that's a page long, and you're probably defeating the purpose of these heavy, comfy, sticky and slow public bikes: convenience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1835" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T05:17:23.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2013-07-11T06:22:06.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested by Anton, here's a look at the Milan-San Remo race that's been using the same (or almost the same) route over the years:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... to give you a better idea of your original question, look at a race like Milan San Remo. Using the same route over all the years. (Or very close to the same route...) There you will see the average speeds have increased all the time over the years. Except the past couple of years it seems to have dropped a little. Maybe because riders are a little cleaner, although I doubt it is that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Data from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeraceinfo.com/classics/Milan-San%20Remo/milan-san-remo-index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeRaceInfo&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Italian racers dream of winning the most prestigious Italian single-day race, Milano-San Remo. It is the longest 1-day race on the pro calendar. Sometimes called &lt;em&gt;La Primavera&lt;/em&gt; (Italian for spring) or &lt;em&gt;La Classicisima&lt;/em&gt; (the most classic), it is held in mid-March.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/oimg?key=0Aq356Z2qSw0vdDUweG1CWFRsb2FKd3JvSm1qckRZX2c&amp;amp;oid=2&amp;amp;zx=vrz753c30tqm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the y-axis scales do not begin at zero, to make the differences more apparent. The distance has increased slightly over the years somewhat (except 2013 where it was shortened due to heavy snowfall and bad weather).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the average speed increased in the first half of the 20th century but has levelled off in the 50 years since 1960.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar trend can be seen in the 'Five Monuments of Cycling': &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/oimg?key=0Aq356Z2qSw0vdDUweG1CWFRsb2FKd3JvSm1qckRZX2c&amp;amp;oid=4&amp;amp;zx=d35ouz17pig&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T07:43:54.820" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T07:43:54.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16629" CreationDate="2013-07-11T07:37:25.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As soon as the freecoaster engages it will come to an abrupt hault. If you do that while going backwards that means that your front end will most likely want to rise. In BMX this is usually accompanied by a 180 degrees movement of the body so the bike turns and and you continue forward with the momentum you already had going backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a freecoaster may have been set in such a way that it has some degrees of slack (a dead period) between pedaling and the moment the freecoaster engages. This, for example, can be set to 60 degrees (1/6 of full circle) or even more if you are into &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flatland_BMX&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bmx flatland riding&lt;/a&gt;. The reason is that on some tricks you need to be on the pedals going backwards (possibly only on the rear wheel only) so you really wouldn't want an accidental engage of the freecoaster due to your foot minor movements while trying to balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T07:37:25.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16717" CreationDate="2013-07-11T08:57:49.813" Score="7" ViewCount="2544" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I was on a DH track for the first time. I have Avid Elixir 7 brakes with 203&quot; rotor in front and 180&quot; rear. The descent took about 5 minutes, and the ropeway up about 15 minutes. After 6 runs I started to notice that my brakes refuse to work properly, and on the 9th and 10th run they were almost gone towards the end of the trail. On the first two runs I used them a lot, because I didn't know the trail, but it surprised me then when I stopped using them excessively, they started to fail me. From here comes the question, how much time takes them to cool down? I understand 20 minutes pause from the runs doesn't helps much, although the rotors were cold. Guess DOT keeps it's temperature for more time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T00:44:07.317" Title="How much time takes for hydraulic disk brakes to cool down?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4039" CreationDate="2013-07-11T09:36:36.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they do, and that's what the groove on your rim is for. If your brake pads are properly adjusted, they wear a rut in the rim, giving it a concave shape. This process is imaginatively described as &quot;concaving&quot;. As always, the late Sheldon Brown has &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;written on the subject&lt;/a&gt;: look for the heading &lt;strong&gt;Rim Issues&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you can't see the groove in the rim any more, it's due for replacement. If the rim is full of ridges before then, it can be smoothed by a specialist using a special kind of file, but I don't imagine this is really worth it any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, the brake pads themselves aren't responsible for the wear: they're pretty soft. But the penalty for this softness is that they're not so good at shifting any grit that gets between the pad and the rim. On a car's disc brakes, most grit gets removed quickly owing to the hardness of the brakes, the faster spinning, and the immense pressure, but on bike discs and especially on rims, any grit will stick around for a while, wearing gouges out of your rim. Fine particles can embed themselves in the pads to continue to wear the rim down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means that the rate of wear depends heavily on the conditions you habitually ride in. If your bike is an all-year commuter bike it'll see more rim wear than a fair-weather bike. That muddy, off-road shortcut you take will be taking its toll as well. Worse yet is a proper mountain bike that's always ridden off-road on dusty and/or muddy trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T09:36:36.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-11T11:05:50.493" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know what the above is: when your chain bunches when you change gears &amp;amp; the bunch runs through the front derailleur and wrenches it. This damage is pretty much irreparable, and has cost me far too much money. How can I stop this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7446" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T11:05:50.493" Title="How can I prevent &quot;chain suck&quot;?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-08-06T12:47:19.760" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16667" CreationDate="2013-07-11T11:09:36.530" Score="10" ViewCount="7203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen quite some carbon fiber bikes that cost upwards of $4000. Why do these bikes cost so much when one can get a very good motorbike for $3000? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A motorbike comes equipped with several technologically advanced systems like IC engines, electrical lighting systems, electronic fuel injection, exhaust systems etc, which require considerably more R&amp;amp;D to build than any bike, IMO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What then, justifies the exorbitant price of these road bikes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7445" LastActivityDate="2018-08-03T10:10:14.480" Title="Why do some road bikes cost more than motorbikes? Are they grossly overpriced?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="14" ClosedDate="2018-08-08T06:44:13.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-11T11:21:13.333" Score="2" ViewCount="2715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am upgrading an old road bike, which has Reynolds 531 tubing. (just to date it for you!)&#xA;I know the wheel dimensions: 700 x 28c, and have found several sets of tires, but am unsure which to choose. The bike will be used as a road bike, if that helps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_249652_langId_-1_categoryId_242553&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_249652_langId_-1_categoryId_242553&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_811429_langId_-1_categoryId_242553&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_811429_langId_-1_categoryId_242553&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7446" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T08:27:13.830" Title="Which tires should I buy for an old road bike?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16390" CreationDate="2013-07-11T17:21:36.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is a press fit then it is probably a BB86.  You'll need a removal tool (Park BBT-90.3, I think) and a press.  Get a SRAM GXP press fit bottom bracket or the equivalent Shimano part, they run about $40 USD. Knock the old one out with the removal tool and a hammer, clean the inside of the shell and press in the new one.  No grease.  The shells of these bottom brackets are made of a very hard plastic that will eventually loosen and start to creak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6650" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T17:21:36.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16658" CreationDate="2013-07-11T17:31:54.890" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;While some will say &quot;it's just supply and demand&quot; and companies charge &quot;whatever the market will bear&quot;, I'm not convinced that your comparison is fair to try and determine whether bikes are overpriced relative to motorcycles. Using a $4,000+ road bike and comparing it to a $3,000 motorcycle is comparing the upper end of one product to the lower end of another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example - you can go to performancebike.com and buy a reasonable &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=10551&amp;amp;storeId=10052&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;categoryId=400306&amp;amp;facet=mfName_ntk_cs%253AScattante&amp;amp;metaData=&amp;amp;pageSize=&amp;amp;orderBy=&amp;amp;searchTerm=&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;entry-level road bike for around $800&lt;/a&gt; ($500 or less if you watch for sales). That bike will have an aluminum frame, low-end carbon fork and a hodge-podge of low-end components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, you can buy a low-end &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/2013/honda/cbr/prices/05/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2013 Honda CBR 250R at a list of $4,199&lt;/a&gt;. That motorcycle has a relatively small engine and will likely will have heavier components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of those products are consumer focused, recreational products; not high-level competition machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you move to the upper end of the recreational products, you are looking at $2,800 for a full carbon with mid-level components on the bike side, versus, $14,000 for the CBR 1000 on the motorcycle side. Neither of these is anywhere near the upper-end of competition ready products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the relative percent difference in price, it about 250% between base and mid-level models of both products. It's up to the individual consumer to decide whether the added benefit of lighter materials, better components on the bike side, and more power, better component on the motorcycle side is really worth a 250% increase in price, but that's why manufacturers release a range of models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to compare between the products, the base motorcycle is going to cost you a little over 5 times what a base bicycle will cost (not counting add-ons like insurance, gas and maintenance). The prices of the higher level motorcycle and bicycle are at about the same ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I don't know anything about use of composites in motorcycles, but I think it's debatable that the technology in a motorcycle requires significantly more R&amp;amp;D than for a bicycle. Precision shifting, weight minimization, not to mention the fabrication of carbon frame tubes to be light, strong, and exhibit directional dependent stiffness and flexibility is R &amp;amp; D intensive. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://gizmodo.com/5843276/why-is-carbon-fiber-so-expensive&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gizmodo article&lt;/a&gt; explains in more detail why carbon fiber products are more expensive (hat-tip to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/1509/tom77&quot;&gt;Tom77&lt;/a&gt;) As far as I can find there are no stock motorcycles available with carbon frames, and Ducati sold a replica Desmosedici with a carbon seat support for over $70,000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T17:46:12.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-11T18:43:58.680" Score="2" ViewCount="1516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Van Nicholas Astraeus Titanium bike, and recently had problems with removing the seatpost. The aluminium shim oxidised itself to my frame. I took it to the bike shop, and in our efforts they crimped the top tube when clamping it into the bike stand, as put it in super tight as we were going to try and hammer the seatpost out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm rather upset at my once beautiful bike is now tarnished. Do I have any hope of fixing this? Would painting the whole frame, and using filler on these 'dents' work?  Can't actually believe I'm writing this, absolutely gutted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSLA9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crimped top tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T23:49:31.690" Title="Repairing a Crimped Titanium Frame" Tags="&lt;damage&gt;&lt;titanium&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9677" CreationDate="2013-07-11T19:21:58.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;there are spd pedals with a shoe platform on the flip side of the cleat. with mtb spd shoes you can walk easily or if you want to ride with sandals or whatever shoe you have on atm, riding is just like it was when you were a kid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7449" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T19:21:58.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16493" CreationDate="2013-07-11T19:53:22.480" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this question a couple of weeks ago and was interested in it, I have just got back from spending 2 nights at the Tour de France where I happened to stay in the same hotel as one of the teams. So I asked one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid it has absolutely nothing to do with protection, or with ventilation. In fact you hit upon the disadvantage of a skinsuit in your question - they do not have pockets. Not having gels/food becomes important in a 4-5 hour race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, even despite this disadvantage, you will on occasion see riders (normally specialist sprinters) wearing skinsuits in a stage, especially one where there the finish is expected to be a bunch sprint. Under such circumstances it becomes the responsibility of a poor old domestique to carry food and gels on behalf of the sprinter. (Heck, I even saw a spectator wearing one!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would guess that the risk mentioned by the commentator is just that the domestique isn't close enough to the sprinter when they need nutrition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T20:04:09.753" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T20:04:09.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-11T20:35:40.763" Score="2" ViewCount="3079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several questions that arise from the fact that the current drivetrain on my old Peugeot road bike is pretty tough to ride when climbing up some steep hills: so I've got a 42/52 up front and 6 speeds (largest: 24) on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my first question: will changing the front to e.g. 39/52 setup make a noticable difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, can it be exchanged to e.g. some older/used crakset such as this Campa&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://apro.bikemag.hu/files/4/2/listing_photo159024_555485241366650384.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://apro.bikemag.hu/files/4/2/listing_photo159024_555485241366650384.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has the same tapered square connection as the current one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6288" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T11:21:28.413" Title="Replacing 42/52 crankset to 39/52 - will it make a difference?" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16650" CreationDate="2013-07-11T20:41:45.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What tire width can be safely used it mostly determined by the width between the bead seats in the rim.  This can be measured and is often listed in the specifications for your rims.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I use Sheldon's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tire sizing chart&lt;/a&gt; to figure out which tires will work.  That link is to a long article on tire sizes, the rim vs tire width chart is red &amp;amp; green and is near the bottom of the article&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Near the top of the linked article is a nice picture showing where to measure inner rim width.  This determines if the tire will stay put on the rim.  Both too wide a tire on too narrow of a rim and too narrow of a tire on too wide of a rime will not seat correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/76/freiheit&quot;&gt;freiheit&lt;/a&gt; points out you also need to check for clearance issues around chainstays, seatstays brakes etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T16:30:24.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16658" CreationDate="2013-07-11T21:44:43.253" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Gary Has a valid view on the answer, but its also a bit more complicated than that. He has compared a 250 motorbike to a 1000cc motor bike - completely different to comparing a $500 road bike to a $5000 road bike. A better comparison is a 250 GP Motorbike vs a 250 Sports bike vs a 250 Commuter..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike motorcycling, Road Cycling is the new Golf. As a result, a lot of cashed up middle aged executives have taken up the sport, and the marketing has largely responded to this by targeting them (more importantly, their disposable income) - promoting the 'need' and desire for high end product. Compared to Golf, a $5000 bicycle is cheap, therefore, its not hard to convince them they &quot;Need&quot; one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they grossly overpriced - they have a lot of RD cost attached, are built out of exotic materials, the shops have a high risk stocking them (End of year sales == 50 percent or bigger discounts), they are relatively low volume products (at the high value end of the scale). Marketing expenses are quite high as it is competitive.  There is no doubts the margins on high end bikes is high - just like everything else in this world. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats different, is many people fell the need to purchase a high end bike due to the excellent marketing, and can actually afford it. Not many of us can afford a Lamborghini or Bugatti, so they do not target us with marketing, and we by a Toyota and are happy with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real question is &quot;Is riding an overpriced high end bike more enjoyable/worth wile compared to riding a cheaper mid-range bike&quot;. The the answer to that is &quot;It depends&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T02:23:11.657" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T02:23:11.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16674" CreationDate="2013-07-12T02:04:35.717" Score="12" ViewCount="23619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on getting a bottle cage for my bike, but my bike does not have the standard mount screws for one. As I understand it, there are two types of cages: bolted cages and clamped cages. I'd prefer a bolted cage because they are cheaper ($5ish vs. $10ish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to drill holes directly into the frame for the bolts (I do have a good bit of experience working with aluminum)? Are there any other alternative methods for attachment, or would I be better off with the clamp cage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5006" LastActivityDate="2020-07-29T03:20:21.793" Title="Attach bottle cage to frame w/o mount screws" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bottle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2964" CreationDate="2013-07-12T05:59:42.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Framesaver is really hard to get, also sucks to breathe and get on the skin, I would use linseed oil instead, apply it pretty much the same, break frame down squirts some down all tubes and rotate bike all around for an even coating, the linseed will cake on the steel and leave a residue that's harmless to steels but will protect from oxide. Linseed oil can be purchased at hardware stores for about 10 bucks a litre which will do a few frames&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7454" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T05:59:42.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16687" CreationDate="2013-07-12T11:10:08.483" Score="4" ViewCount="3618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the brake pads on my hydraulic disc brake. The brakes are a Tektro Draco 2. Now the new pads are constantly touching the rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nG662.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how it looks like with caliper unmounted. Notice the left piston is constantly sticking out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yrc7w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried spreading the pistons with a spacer. I left it in there for 3 hours&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cr2J8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But still, the left piston comes out again. I'm thinking about buying a service kit to bleed the system. Will that help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7315" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T05:36:39.173" Title="Brake pads constantly touching the rotor because piston is not moving back" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16672" CreationDate="2013-07-12T13:13:21.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before changing to new pads you usually need to reset the pistons to their original position. I'm not familiar with your specific brakes but usually pistons auto adjust in order to compensate for pad wear. That's why right now you get constant rub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleeding will help in case there is a lot of air trapped in the system (and that may be the reason why reseting with the spacer did not work for you). Also, air will expand when the brakes get hot so it'll make this problem even worst. Generally, properly bleeding your brakes is the only way to have good brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T13:13:21.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16668" CreationDate="2013-07-12T14:09:31.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clamps are easy and reversible - causing little or no damage to tubing (metal jubilee clips might scratch paintwork, but there are plastic versions which work well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm loath to drill holes in perfectly good tubing - I also would be worried about metal shavings falling to the bottom of the tube and causing problems in a bearing race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T14:09:31.787" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-12T14:15:07.350" Score="1" ViewCount="676" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has size 4 feet and we are struggling to find a comfortable set of toeclips for her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment, even the Zefal 043 &quot;medium&quot; clips are too long, leaving her with her feet almost centred on the pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are looking for a set of strapped, two-pronged toe clips, ideally nylon, but which have a shorter than normal plate. Does anyone know of a such a product and where it can be obtained in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Clipless pedals are not under consideration....)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1841" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T05:19:04.200" Title="UK supplier of short toe clips for small footed woman" Tags="&lt;toe-straps-clips&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16668" CreationDate="2013-07-12T16:07:21.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible to install a set of water bottle &quot;braze-ons&quot; on a frame which was not originally supplied with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It requires a very specific set of tools and parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video below shows how a Rivnut works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/dkPhGIaPCVs?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second video wexpolains how to install a set in a bicycle frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/O3mWfkOkbk0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T16:07:21.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16609" CreationDate="2013-07-12T16:15:04.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you state that &quot;any method&quot; would do, and taking into account that there are several arguments against GPS, I would suggest a couple of non technology solutions to the problem you have with barometric altitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to use altitude information for goal setting, which I assume requires more precision than simple route tracking, for which GPS imprecision of 10 meter over a climb of 500 meters is barely an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method 1:&lt;/strong&gt; An assistant, a second barometric altimeter and means of communicating with the assistant. Easy as cake: you calibrate both altimeters (cycle computer with altimeter) at the base of your climb, and leave one with your assistant, whom is supposed to remain at the same spot (or at least at the same altitude) and take the other on the bike. When you finish your climb communicate with your assistant, asking him or her to annotate both altitude readings and possibly timing data and any other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, even if the weather changes during your climb, you should't be so far away that the two altimeters are in different weather zones... Or maybe you and your assistant can also share actual weather observations and roughly combine that with weather information to discard, let's say a low pressure weave sweeping over only one of the altimeters...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method 2:&lt;/strong&gt; If your ride is a closed loop, or you descend using the same route that you climb and if it is possible to descend real quick, you can annotate the altitude at the low point when you begin, a the high point when you finish climbing, then descend as fast as you safely (and enjoyably) can, and note the low point altitude again. With this third lecture you can tell if there really was a barometric pressure shift during your climb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this assumes you descend quickly enough as to disregard weather changes, and that your goal was just to climb a relatively short distance. (i.e. not day after day travelling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Method 3:&lt;/strong&gt; Known Routes. If you are travelling known routes the best approach would be to get maps that contain the appropriate elevation information. In this cases, you can use GPS location data just to find your spot in the map, but then relying on the altitude information on the map. Use common sense to overcome imprecision from your gps device (the least expensive are the less precise), for example, use cue points located in big, roughly level areas, or points that may already be marked in the map, like sightpoints, train stations, teleferic stations, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These suggestions are only trying to get the most accurate elevation change possible. But the precision required varies with the way you want to meter your goals. Most of us, do our training on repetitive routes, so it is only necessary to measure elevation once, after that, the goal usually is simply to either climb as fast as possible, or to climb within a given timeframe. Given this, you may not even need to measure altitude while actually riding the bike, you may do it using a car, a motorcycle, an ATV, etc. This allows you to dedicate just a couple of days to measure a set of cue points to construct a personal database for diverse altitudes with high precision for your locale, which may not be readily available for you at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there may not be a necessity for such high precision, specially for longish rides that climb over 500 meters (1640.42 feet). What I say is, 6 meters (20 feet) is almost a two story (or storey, a floor or level of a building) height from the ground which can be climbed in a matter of seconds in a fairly pronounced slope, buy may take so much longer in a not so steep incline, that is, time can be a much more significant measure for goal setting, and clocks are so easy to find...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree that GPS may be imprecise, but within a range of 15 meters (50 feet), which represent two minutes from a 45 minute ride, I find it absolutely acceptable, since I rely more on a simple stopwatch than any other method. In that regard, the GPS data that me and my group are gathering in our routes allows us to compare routes, and to roughly predict how difficult should be for us to ride a trail that somebody else shared. For that, GPS is more than enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:25:15.910" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:25:15.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16680" CreationDate="2013-07-12T17:21:43.473" Score="6" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be buying my first road bike (after 15 years with the same mountain bike) and I have found many for sale on Kijiji. When I go look at the bikes, what should be some red flags that turn me away from them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already researched brands, but are there warning signs when looking at the bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4038" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T21:02:33.087" Title="What are some red flags to look for when buying a used road bike?" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16678" CreationDate="2013-07-12T21:02:33.087" Score="16" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that the frame is not compromised. Looks for cracks or big dents, or any asymmetry in the forks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that there is no rust through the paint anywhere. If there is any chrome, make sure that any rust is only on the surface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that the seatpost isn't seized. This is pretty easy as you can just loosen the seatpost bolt and give the saddle a squiggle. If it moves, you're golden.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the bike has a quill stem, make sure it isn't seized up. This requires loosening the stem bolt, and whacking it with a hammer or preferably a soft-ended mallet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that the bottom bracket and hubs turn smoothly. If the motion is stiff or jerky it probably means the bearings or races are shot, and that they'll need work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure that the cables work. Try the brakes and try the gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the braking surfaces. Most wheels will have an indicator groove along the center of the braking surface. If this looks quite worn it means that the wheel is on its last legs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't worry about dust. Dust is a good sign, in my opinion. It means that the bike was probably stored indoors and by an owner who didn't use it much. These are good things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't worry too much about brakes pads or tires. You can replace those fairly cheaply.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some old road bikes have really gummy brake hoods that can be a pain to deal with. This isn't really a deal breaker though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T21:02:33.087" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16683" CreationDate="2013-07-12T21:13:49.967" Score="6" ViewCount="4301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike that is almost two years old. It still has the original brakes (side pull caliper brakes), which seem to still be functional. However, they are worn and I am going to be doing a lot of biking out of town during the next two weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I know how to replace my brake pads, but I don't know if they still have plenty of life left or are about to go. What should I look for? How can I tell when they need to be replaced? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5006" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T23:01:11.433" Title="When do my brake pads need replacement?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16668" CreationDate="2013-07-12T21:15:12.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nylon zip ties. No tools required, no holes to drill and easily reversible.....you can even get 'em in colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7460" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T21:15:12.120" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16681" CreationDate="2013-07-12T22:44:37.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There must be some wear indicating lines on your brake pads. If you don't see them - it's time to replace the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of wear indicator lines: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqMuRl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T23:01:11.433" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T23:01:11.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16686" CreationDate="2013-07-13T00:44:00.590" Score="7" ViewCount="4694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble making the rather tight turns on one of the tracks I ride on. I am already leaning inward while I'm turning, but very often either I still can't turn sharply enough, or I lean too far and end up wiping out, especially when I'm turning at high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, are there any riding techniques that I can use to help me achieve a tighter turning radius?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6952" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T07:34:53.737" Title="How to achieve a tighter turning radius?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3730" CreationDate="2013-07-13T05:46:29.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also have a look at CANYON's calculator: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canyon.com/_en/tools/pps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.canyon.com/_en/tools/pps.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-13T05:46:29.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16684" CreationDate="2013-07-13T06:00:13.903" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at where you want to go (the exit of the turn) and not ahead or at your front wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly turn your hips and waist to point to where you want to go (the exit of the turn). Also, thinking that you want to point your belly button there helps achieve this movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside foot down (pressing the bike down), inside foot up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outside hand pulls, inside hand pushes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lean the bike slightly more than your body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lean your body less than your bike. Try to keep your head horizontal to the ground though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trust the tyres and commit to the turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't touch the brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you don't loose the front wheel. If it washes out then you are done. You ensure that by maintaining pressure on the handlebars. So keep your weight in the center of the bike (don't crouch back to the saddle).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it is obvious that new tyres help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, when you approach the exit of the turn start pedaling again to gain what you've lost while cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the above tips is what I do on mountain biking. There is a possibility that tip #4 doesn't apply to road or track bikes, but I am not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-07-13T08:36:37.317" LastActivityDate="2013-07-13T08:36:37.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16672" CreationDate="2013-07-13T10:48:26.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left the spacer in overnight. The Piston now goes all the way back. Guess I was just too impatient :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7315" LastActivityDate="2013-07-13T10:48:26.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-13T16:25:44.820" Score="2" ViewCount="1025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a neighbours daughters bike to fix at the moment. The freehub is totally seized. I've removed the freehub from the hub itself, but can't identify it nor have I see any like it. It doesn't have a separate locking screw and screws into the hub itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks similar to a DMR, Halo, or Sun freehub but it's only a cheap hub. The one that looks closest so far is the DMR. Yet the DMR has what looks like an aluminium bit at the end of the thread:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7685&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=7685&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures of the freehub are here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/V11ef#0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/V11ef#0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jBai6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6kJKW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7463" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-11-21T14:38:06.540" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T14:38:06.540" Title="Unknown freehub, trying to source" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16697" CreationDate="2013-07-13T23:16:42.260" Score="3" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a 2014 HardRock Sport Disc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride on a variety of road surfaces, including pavement, gravel and dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't currently have plans to race, do long touring rides, or rough technical trails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am riding mostly for fitness, and doing rides up to 40 miles (65 km)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specialized has a &quot;Help Me Choose a Saddle&quot; section on the website, but I am not sure how I fit their categories.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider me Fitness/Recreational, but according to the website that's more people who do short rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I would think that road saddles would have more cushion since your sitting on them for long extended periods compared to a mountain saddle when you're standing up off the saddle more, but it seems to be the opposite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, road saddles tend to have the least cushion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I did 25 miles (40 km) on the rail trail I wasn't tired but my toosh was extremely sore during and afterwards. To note I'm using the standard saddle that came with my bike which does not feel cushiony at all to me so I would assume I would want something with more cushion. But the ones with the most cushion seem to be not recommended for roads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gel seems very appealing to me but have heard negatives about that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone recommend what saddle(s) might be best for me? I'm fine with $40 to $100 US Dollars price range (less of course better if possible) and I'm a 26 male 5'9'' (175cm) around 160 pounds (72 kilograms) if that affects the recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To note the Milano Sport Gel looks like one option. The Targa description looks more like me but without gel it doesn't look like it would be much more comfortable/cushiony than the standard saddle I have now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7466" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-12-09T03:18:19.453" LastActivityDate="2017-12-09T03:18:19.453" Title="Saddle for long rail trails, streets and dirt paths" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;comfort&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16584" CreationDate="2013-07-14T02:25:00.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This kind of pitting on the hub cone is usually because there was some small amount of play in the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play allows sideways movement, which acts like a hammer on the ball bearings as the hub vibrates from being ridden, or hitting bumps on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other side is normal, with the bearing track. If anything, the extra large compression track in that cone may be why there was a bit of play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no pitting in the bearing races, replace the cones, readjust the hub, and carry on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan to overhaul and readjust the hubs 500-1000 km of riding after you replace the cones, because the will wear in a bearing track again on the new cones, and the hub will become very slightly loose because of it. It may take 2 or 3 repetitions of this to settle in completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T02:25:00.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16675" CreationDate="2013-07-14T05:19:04.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;MKS, while alloy, makes smaller toe clips. I personally have a set of their small toe clips as I wanted to reduce toe overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mkspedal.com/English/MKS_padal_news.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mkspedal.com/English/MKS_padal_news.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most places that distribute MKS toe clips can order you the XS or Small size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6213" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T05:19:04.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16655" CreationDate="2013-07-14T10:01:09.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rotors cool &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; quickly (under 30 seconds for glove-meltingly hot to ambient).  But the caliper can hold heat for some time, I'm very surprised at your 20min claim though - there's so little thermal mass.  Modern disc brakes use an 'open' system which involves a reservoir with a metal diaphragm in, so when the fluid gets hot and begins to expand, the diaphragm expands rather than the pistons close.  However this will only work to a certain point, after that your brakes will 'fade'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience this usually boils down to the rider feathering the brake, i.e. letting the pad lightly touch the surface - not enough to slow you down noticeably, but enough to gradually generate a huge amount of heat over the course of a run.  You'll be doing this without realising, I did, for years!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often it can be helped a lot by adjusting the lever: Lessen the lever reach and shorten the bite point.  This will have the effect of lessening the modulation (which you don't need much of in DH) and lowering how far your brake finger (one finger for DH, you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; the rest to hold on) has to reach to rest on the lever.  The latter point has a big psychological effect because your hand is closer to being a fist and therefore feels like you have more grip - it's hard to grip a bar hard with an outstretched index finger, your body naturally wants to pull it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If however, you get to the point where your brakes have faded, you will have to compensate for the larger fluid volume.  To do this you will have slacken the bite point off until it feels the same as it did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T10:01:09.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16695" CreationDate="2013-07-14T12:35:19.207" Score="2" ViewCount="10923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading a lot about road bikes and looking at the differences between bikes called &quot;compacts&quot; but I don't see much consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that compact road bikes have different gearing and also a sloping top tube but not necessarily both. I've also seen some bikes with &quot;Compact&quot; in the title but don't appear to have either of those features! Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3398" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T03:05:17.300" Title="What defines a &quot;compact&quot; road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;compact-crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16694" CreationDate="2013-07-14T13:01:24.850" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The word &quot;compact&quot; can be used in two contexts, both separate from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is to do with the geometry of the frame. This is basically where the top tube is sloped rather than level. As is often the case, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_cn-z.html#compactframe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; has a good description including the whys and wherefores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is to do with the gearing, in particular the number of teeth on the front rings. This is covered in a previous question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15737/number-of-gears-for-a-racer/15738#15738&quot;&gt;Number of gears for a racer&lt;/a&gt;. (Its covered on Sheldon too, close to the previous link.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you weren't already aware, Sheldon's site is a superb reference for all things bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T13:01:24.850" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-14T14:07:48.643" Score="2" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had a crash due to hitting a dog. My carbon fiber frame now has chip the size of a dime at the junction of the seat stay and drop out on the drive side. Should I be concerned about frame failure now or in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7468" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T19:43:38.393" Title="damage to carbon road frame at the seat stay and drop out junction" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;failure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16690" CreationDate="2013-07-14T15:28:26.620" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The kind of biking you do is exactly the kind of biking I do. I was once a devotee of the Cult of Saddle Cushioning as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wrong. Painfully, chafingly so. Ow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want the gel. You don't want lots of cushioning. What you probably do want is springs (saddle suspension) and &lt;em&gt;perhaps&lt;/em&gt; something a bit wider in back than your typical Lycra Laddish roadie thing. You may also want to invest in bike shorts with a good chamois. You definitely want to invest in a decent skin-lubricating cream (hunt around here; several posts on that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I splurged on a Brooks leather saddle for my tourer, and while I'm still breaking it in, I can already tell it's a much better ride than the cushion-packed saddle I replaced. If Brooks is too pricey, but you still want leather, Velo-Orange has some less-expensive ones (though caveat emptor: I've seen some poor reviews).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T15:28:26.620" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16707" CreationDate="2013-07-14T17:11:56.910" Score="7" ViewCount="5807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought two used bikes for my children, both with 16 inch wheels.  I was surprised to see that one child has to pedal much faster to go the same speed as the other child, and discovered the two bikes had different sprocket sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is is common and reasonable to replace a smaller sprocket with a larger one, or should I just try to find a different bike?  I assume I will also have to replace the pedals and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4078" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T22:32:05.897" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T22:32:05.897" Title="Switch to a larger sprocket on child bike with coaster brakes" Tags="&lt;children&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16690" CreationDate="2013-07-14T21:23:07.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's often wise to spend money on the contact points: bars/grips, saddle, bib shorts (good chamois), and shoes/pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have-- and like very much-- a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.selleanatomica.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Selle An-Atomica&lt;/a&gt; saddle on my road bike. I have one for my mountain bike as well. The leather of the saddle flexes with your muscles as you move:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/Z28tv3220Yg?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/9wX52DTAUg0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T21:23:07.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-15T06:17:28.857" Score="2" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently had 2 bikes (Trek and Giant) of the hybrid style. The frame style was comfortable but both were difficult to change gears. When going up an incline, I would shift to a lower gear. The chain would slip, pop, clatter, and sometimes fall off completely. I took them back to the dealer who adjusted the shift cable but that did not correct the problem. I got rid of both of them. Is there a bike that does not have this shifter problem? thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7469" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T23:11:31.533" Title="reliable bike shifting" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-15T07:35:26.647" Score="3" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please help. What should I do? I just bought a full carbon road bike that is less than 30 days old and noticed a hairline glitch where the seat post and seat stay meet that I can feel with my fingernail. It is about 3/4 of an inch long. Similar spots were found but turned out to be lines created by leftover warning sticker glue. It took a lot of simple green, white lightening to remove the glue. I have never had an accident or dropped her and cleaning has had no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T08:10:29.677" Title="Carbon frame damage" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16701" CreationDate="2013-07-15T08:10:29.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing you can do is contact the LBS (local bike shop) or online shop where from you got the bike. They'll tell you what to do (most probably handle it with the distributor themselves or tell you to contact the distributor directly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take good photos of the issue and forward them to the ones you contact. Keep your purchase receipt handy for when requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T08:10:29.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-15T10:16:06.797" Score="4" ViewCount="1621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working my way through issues with noisy front cantilever brakes. After running through many different ways to solve the issue including new pads (Kool Stop Dura2 Duel Compound), setting the toe in and cleaning the rims. &#xA;I now believe the noise is being generated by the play in the pivot point of the cantilever arm. It is not possible to tighten the bolt any further so there will need to be a washer or shim placed in here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had any success in removing the play from the pivot point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is a cyclocross Kona Jake 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7471" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T02:29:15.903" Title="How to remove play in cantilever pivot point?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16700" CreationDate="2013-07-15T16:29:07.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bike chain falling of the cogs is a clear signal of a bad adjustment of the high and/or low limit screws. This has nothing to do with cable tension, so it can't be really solved by just playing around with this variable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, this kind of adjustment is super easy, and even if the derailleur no longer works, that's no reason to throw the bike away: you just need a new derailleur!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7387" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T16:29:07.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16696" CreationDate="2013-07-15T19:43:38.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anytime you are in a crash I think you need to be worried about damage to the frame and future frame failure. Unfortunately it's very difficult for a lay person to inspect and evaluate damage to a carbon frame. For this reason I would suggest that you take the frame to a reputable bike shop and have it inspected there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also remember that carbon fiber absorbs water, so the chip in your paint/gel coat get should be fixed ASAP, as water damage can cause a corrosion cell to form and the frame to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the frame passes the inspection of the bike shop, you can touch up the damage with clear coat touch-up paint, or some people have used clear fingernail polish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T19:43:38.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16698" CreationDate="2013-07-16T01:47:26.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should only need to replace the sprocket, nothing else. If you put on a smaller sprocket to get higher gearing/slower pedalling you need a smaller sprocket, not a larger one. You may need to remove a chain link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those parts should be standard, the same as on an adult bike, and any bike shop should be able to make the switch. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/coaster-brakes.html%E2%80%8E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coaster brakes&lt;/a&gt; are common in Europe on adult commuter bikes and in the US on &quot;beach cruiser&quot; type bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're looking at a cog like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hyejk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;coaster brake sproket and lock ring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is about &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000AO9TGW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;$7 on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, so probably $10 or so from a bike shop, plus labour. You could swap it yourself if you're a little confident - just take the wheel off, use a screwdriver to pop the lock ring, swap the cog and put the lockring back (beware: the lockring is a spring and likely to go flying). With an o-ring plier they're easy enough to reinstall or you can use a couple of screwdrivers to push it on. The only hiccup might be if you need to remove a chain link to get it to work, in which case you will need a chain tool as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue is 15-20 minutes of the mechanics time, which will cost you. It will be cheaper if you pop the wheel off before taking it in, or at least make sure it's easy to do so (but if that's tricky you probably want the mechanic to do it all anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-07-16T01:53:39.773" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T01:53:39.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16709" CreationDate="2013-07-16T13:02:04.043" Score="2" ViewCount="1916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got myself a new bike and i have been told by many to reduce the seat height or bend more to cycle such that the thighs touch your stomach or atleast closer to stomach as you cycle. They say it will reduce the flab quickly and better workout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7324" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T19:44:50.047" Title="Should thighs touch the stomach to reduce flab?" Tags="&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16708" CreationDate="2013-07-16T13:08:55.400" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that this is a bad advice you've heard (by many?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For pedaling seated, the seat has only one position; the proper one. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/51/908&quot;&gt;How do I determine the correct position for my bicycle seat?&lt;/a&gt; for info on how to set it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the flab thing, as far as I know touching your stomach with your thighs (or any other part of your body) will not contribute to a better workout or a six pack. For that I guess you'll need lots of proper training and a consistently proper diet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T13:08:55.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16708" CreationDate="2013-07-16T14:22:05.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Losing flab is a matter of eating less calories than you use on a daily basis. There is some debate about the 3500 calories = 1 lb of fat equation, but many studies have shown that it isn't Paleo, South Beach or (insert diet fad X here), but simple calorie reduction over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to seriously lose the weight, then I would find a calorie calculator to get your basal metabolism, which will tell you how many calories you need to breathe in and out all day. Then add in the calories for all your activities, work, yard work, housework, play, etc. Then start using a food tracker such as myfitnesspal, and let the scale be your guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bouncing your knees off your stomach won't do a thing for flab except give you a sore stomach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T14:22:05.283" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16708" CreationDate="2013-07-16T14:26:26.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, what you're specifically suggesting sounds bad. Your seat will have a correct height, dependent on the geometry of your frame and the length of your legs. Period. Get it wrong and your knees will complain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I can add something regarding fighting flab. I was around 105kg back in 2008, I've been about 75kg for the last couple of years. I have lost that weight purely through cycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you might expect my legs have become extremely muscular. As regards my upper body though, I've not become amazingly muscular because I don't really work those muscles, however I have benefitted just by losing weight &quot;all round&quot; (for example, I still look down and see a gut, but t-shirt sizes used to start with X, now I'm a S/M, so something good has happened). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess what I am trying to say is this: set your bike up properly such that it is comfortable to ride, and keep putting the miles in. You &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; lose weight, but it will take time. To accelerate this, I can think of two things, (i) more miles (especially as your body becomes more able to cope), and (ii) your diet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're specifically wanting to tone your upper body, I'd suggest doing some supplementary exercise, but cycling should give you all the lower-body and cardio you'll need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, good luck. Obviously it is very much in your own hands, but know that it is possible to get rid of that flab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-07-16T18:11:17.847" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T18:11:17.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11123" CreationDate="2013-07-16T16:19:56.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of rollers, but for optimum training flexibility &amp;amp; outcomes you will be best off with a bike dedicated to the purpose, so that you can fit untreaded tyres and, to counter the lack of resistance and promote aerobic &amp;amp; muscular development, bigger gears. A second-hand road-bike of appropriate wheelbase will be cheap and ideal. Otherwise, pump your rear tyre up hard and use the rollers for easy/recovery rides or to develop high cadence pedalling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-07-16T21:55:16.813" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T21:55:16.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-16T17:02:40.417" Score="0" ViewCount="2759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 180cm and the recommended size for me is 58cm or so, which i already have, a classic Peugeot racing bike. Works relatively ok but i found that i ride it better when i'm leaning forward and keep my hands on the lower side of the handlebars. And now comes the problem, i'm thin and i need more power than i have to ride this bike fast and long. However, the only bike i found to buy in my country and also to like it, is a 54cm with the reynolds 531 frame but i can't test it as it's not in my city (i do plan to test other bikes of 54 if i can find but for now i didn't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, is there any reason i should not buy it? From the way i see things it shouldn't be any problem if i can pull the sit high enough. The handlebars are already a little lower which should be good. If i look to professional riders they also seem to have a smaller bike comparing to their body size, but this Peugeot is like controlling me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4919" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T14:48:03.097" Title="A bike smaller than is recommended" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9673" CreationDate="2013-07-16T17:11:23.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ridden 200km dailyfor ten consecutive days, in the French Alps, in a timed event. I trained for it by riding 60, then 70, then 80 hours in months -3, -2, -1 respectively, and came 4th out of 40. How you fit in such saddle-time in is up to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB: for a 30-day event you'll get stronger as it goes on, as long as you start conservatively and eat and sleep well each night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-07-16T21:54:25.293" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T21:54:25.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16390" CreationDate="2013-07-16T18:32:38.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've now fitted the bb, just thought I'd add a couple of details in case anyone looks this up in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to my actual question is that, as I removed the old bb I found grease from the original install, by the &quot;cups&quot;. So I basically cleaned the shell as best I could, but just with a dry kitchen towel, then regreased the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole removal/installation process was done in less than half an hour. I needed two specialised tools (this threw me a little, originally I thought only one tool was required). One tool to remove the bb, a second tool to install the new one. Both Shimano and Park do the tools (in the end I ended up buying the park tool to remove the bb, and the Shimano tool to install the new one), but whichever make, you need two tools. The removal tool also needed a hammer (ouch!), the installation tool also required an 8mm allen key, but it really was straightforward to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two observations. The first was that the part that came off was not exactly what&#xA;went on. I suspect this is just a &quot;passage of time&quot; thing, as the new part fits perfectly and was confirmed by a Giant shop as the correct part. The second.....well I was surprised just how hard I had hammer to get the old bb out. (I started off with a mallet but that was no good at all.) I suppose this could have been something to do with me thinking, every time I hit the removal tool, &quot;I hope I don't break anything&quot;. But in the end everything was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In summary:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom bracket I fitted was a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tweekscycles.com/components/bottom-brackets/shimano-bb9141b-press-fit-bottom-bracket-road-86-5mm-x-41mm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano BB9141B&lt;/a&gt;. This is the better quality of two compatible bottom brackets (the other being the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tweekscycles.com/components/bottom-brackets/shimano-sm-bb71-ultegra-press-fit-bottom-bracket-road-with-inner-cover-86-5mm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BB71&lt;/a&gt;). The differences between them seems to boild down to Ultegra versus Dura Ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool I used for removing the old bottom bracket was the Park &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koo-bikes.com/park-tool-bbt903-press-fit-bottom-bracket-bearing-tool-set.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BBT90.3&lt;/a&gt;. Seemed to be fine, buying the Shimano version of this tool would have cost a small fortune for some reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool I used to fit the new BB was the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tweekscycles.com/bike-accessories/cycle-tools/shimano-tl-bb12-press-fit-bb-installation-tool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TL-BB12&lt;/a&gt;. Made the job a doddle but very expensive for something I used for half a minute!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-07-16T19:28:45.177" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T19:28:45.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16655" CreationDate="2013-07-17T00:44:07.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may not be the temperature of the rotors at all.  As @cmannett85 mentioned the rotors will cool very fast, much more likely that the pads are starting to glaze over which reduces their coefficient of friction substantially. This will make it feel like your brakes are 'fading'.  Hot calipers aren't your problem - the pad-rotor interface is what matters. It's &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; unlikely that you're overheating your DOT fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, when you are repeating downhill runs (or on a trail with any extended braking periods) you may need to change your brake pads for a different type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had huge problems years ago with the pads I used to use until I switched to sintered metal based pads.&#xA;They perform much better over the course of a whole day than the old organic pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's probably a little of the 'you get what you pay for' with brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="396" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T00:44:07.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2013-07-17T02:27:27.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way is to definitely make sure you have on bright clothing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neon clothes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bright construction vests&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light colored helmet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add a reflector or blinker to the top of your helmet to add visibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AVOID DARK CLOTHING!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motorists are not always watching (I know from personal experience) and they are a lot bigger than you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another is to make the bike itself visible. Good ways to do this are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add reflectors to front and rear tires as well as the body of the bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a mounted light such as a Cat's Eye on your handlebars. This will allow you to see through dark areas better than just street lights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add reflective and neon tape (as suggested above) to the frame of the bike to make you visible. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make lights as bright as possible on the spokes or handle bars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7489" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T23:07:24.597" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T23:07:24.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-17T11:16:31.323" Score="1" ViewCount="4026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Scott CR1 SL 2012 frame to replace a crash damaged frame on my 2009 Boardman Team Carbon road bike.  The intention being to move as much as possible across from the old bike on to the new bike.  Mostly all went well, I even managed to cut the fork and install the headset.  I didn't have any specific tools and the press-fit went in by firm hand pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, on to the BB and crank.  The old bike was running SRAM Rival and SRAM GXP cranks.  New frame came with Shimano press-fit BB already fitted (I believe to be Shimano SM-BB91-41B).  From a lot of internet searching it was still unclear whether the BB is compatible with GPX crank so I gave it a go to see.  Once fitted it actually seemed fine but after a short test ride there was a bit of play that no tightening could get rid of.  I left it for a week then went back to it to remove when I had a spare 5 minutes......  Oh dear, in my rush I forgot that to remove I need to leave the outer 'screw' in and loosen the inner one to push the crank arm off.  Instead I screwed a crankpuller in to the crankarm and kept tigntening and managed to strip it.  So now left with a stuck crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first things - need to remove the crankarm, I have tried hammering it outwards and it seems to have budged a bit but now none further.  Going to try a gentle ride soon to see if that helps.  The arm is knackered so also could cut it off but how easy is that?  Any other suggestions.  I'm not sure riding it is going to work but it may.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it is off what to do next?  I think options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Swap BB to Sram BB86 GXP and stick with my crankset after buying a new crankarm.  Problem here is removing and fitting the BBs, new tools etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Go Shimano crankset, the 'off the shelf' bike uses Dura Ace but could use a lower range crankset that would fit the BB I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm leaning towards (2) as it involves less fitment work on my part although will cost a bit more but at the same time I don't mind upgrading anyway.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on first of all removing the old arm?  Then what would you do given my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7493" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T16:44:56.267" Title="New frame bottom bracket and crank compatibility and general stupidity!" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2013-07-17T12:51:50.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google Maps for iPhone now has bike layer support and bike-specific navigation starting with update on July 16, 2013, version 2.0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T12:51:50.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12992" CreationDate="2013-07-17T14:49:52.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tubes may be cheap, but good luck filling a presta valve when you are on the road in the USA. NO gas station has presta chucks. And if you are living in the USA, it's a 3/8 inch drill bit to convert to schrader valve. I have yet to see anyone have a wheel collapse due to converting to schrader valves. The bike shops warn against it because they gotta sell those presta tubes they have in stock. Only reason I can see for NOT converting is there may not be a schrader tube available in your size rim. That's when you use the adapter shown above. Look on YouTube and you will find videos on how to change from presta to schrader valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7495" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T14:49:52.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2013-07-17T16:15:17.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many riders and mechanics recommend discarding the lock nut on the Presta valve because it causes more problems than it cures. I got rid of the lock nuts on the 4 bikes I have that use the Presta valve and have experienced no problems after doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycling.about.com/b/2010/01/31/do-you-need-those-presta-valve-nuts.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Do You Need Those Presta Valve Nuts?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to valves fitting rims...you can drill a 3/8 inch hole in a Presta valve rim and use Schrader vale tubes in it. You just have to make sure you find a tube that matches the recommendations for tire pressure of the tire. Also make sure you &quot;clean up&quot; the hole so that no rough edges or burrs are present.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7495" LastEditorUserId="26813" LastEditDate="2016-10-09T15:12:34.777" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T15:12:34.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16729" CreationDate="2013-07-17T17:08:36.010" Score="3" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16190/what-does-the-c-in-bicycle-tire-size-mean&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, the &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; in tire sizes (when expressed in metric format) is just a historical thing, and should be ignored. As I understood, also, tire sizes expressed in the ISO format should not have any dangling letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then the following tire and inner tube dimensions threw me off. One of my tires reads &lt;code&gt;700x38C (40-622)&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; part of the metric size), and one of my inner tubes reads &lt;code&gt;35/43-622C (700x35/43)&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; part of the ISO size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a &quot;typo&quot; on the inner tube? Should the &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; also be ignored on ISO sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Auxiliary question: I am assuming that &lt;code&gt;35/43&lt;/code&gt; indicates a &lt;em&gt;range&lt;/em&gt; of acceptable rim widths. Is that correct?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5582" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T19:48:43.743" Title="Different locations of C in tire sizes" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16719" CreationDate="2013-07-17T17:19:13.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did something similar years ago with my first bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was replacing the stock square taper BB and ended up tearing out all the threads.  The BB was fried and it was the left side arm so I cut it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took about two hours since the arms were hardened steel, I used a hack saw and a grinder.  Once I had removed a chunk I still had to hammer it off.  I completely jacked up the bottom bracket, but I was replacing it so it didn't matter to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would advise against cutting it.  I would try:  Heating the arm with a heat gun and tapping with a hammer, penetrating oil around the splines and light riding, or maybe re-threading the arm with a tap, I'm not sure what size you need but since you've moved it a bit already you may not need many good threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have to bite the bullit and go the the bike shop...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3811" LastEditorUserId="3811" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T17:26:36.750" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T17:26:36.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7895" CreationDate="2013-07-17T18:22:09.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am also looking to touch up my bike and happened to find a website that sells bike touch up paint for a variety of specific brands. It also had some DIY colors for custom jobs. This is the website I found: mytouchuppaint.com, if anyone knows of any other options please let me know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T18:22:09.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="59" CreationDate="2013-07-17T18:24:14.363" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;My conclusion after many years of using not two, but three types of valves is that the best is the one that results &lt;strong&gt;most practical for you&lt;/strong&gt;, acording to type of riding, type of pumping methods available and of course the type of bike/tire/rims you are using. Neither valve type is absolutely better than other, but one of them may result better for your particular circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example when I was younger, the modern mountain bike was not yet popular in my country, so the most available tube had dunlop valves, also, the classical stick pump was available in the only bike store, in many hardware stores and even some supermarkets and department stores that sold sporting equipment. Back in that time, it was crazy to have a schrader valve, because you could only buy cheap and bad quality foot pumps, and the gas stations here where too careless to mantain their pumps in working order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, I have schraders in my DH bike, presta in my XC bikes and dunlops in my wife's XC bike. Besides that, I have many presta-to-schrader adaptors in my toolbox, patch kit, in my car, bacpack, etc. So I use a schrader pump head most of the time. This gives me huge flexibility, I can pump with whatever I have in hand! That is, In the car I have a small &quot;compressor&quot;, an electrical pump that runs on 12v from the car's battery. At home I use a cheap but decent floor pump that has schrader head from a hardware store. Here the advantage is that it cost a fifth of a &quot;proper biker's floor pump&quot;. And my Mini-stick pumps are set to schrader mode. Yes, I preffer to screw in the adaptor than to reverse the inners of the pump head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have some dunlop tubes because here you can buy up to four or five dunlop tubes for the price of one schrader or presta. I use schraders on my DH bike because of the high volume. Schrader provides a wider air passage, so they are less restrictive and that allows for faster pumping with a hand of floor pump. Obvioulsy a DH tire does not require high pressure. And the prestas are used because higher quality tubes or certain specific sizes are only available in presta/shcrader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about 20 years of riding BMX (as a kid), Road, XC, DH, and even BSOs, i have never noticed a significative difference that forces me to choose one over another, and I find equal difficulty inflating them or repairing flats in any tube type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only possible advantage I see en prestas is that when you need to deflate them, you unscrew the valve closure and press it with yout finger, you don't need a thin object like with schraders. (such an object may already be in your emergency tool set, for example a 3mm hex from a multitool does the trick). The other advantage may be the locking nut that avoids the valve receeding into the rim when pressing the pump head against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presta may be mandatory for narrow rims, like the ones in road bikes. Dunlop and Schrader both require the same diameter for the rim hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the three valve types, only dunlop actually requires air pressure to both open the valve while pumping and to seal it, and in practice it is the only one that closes itself while the pump is being filled with air. The typical stick pump for dunlop valves would not have a check valve on the output. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both, Schrader and Presta specific pump heads press the inner pin or the closing nut respectively to open the valve. (I'm not saying prestas cannot be opened by air pressure from the pump, but most pump designs press on the closing nut). For that reason, modern pumps do have a check valve or an equivalent mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that being said, whether it is easier to pump to a certain pressure depends more on the pump design, including the pump head. Some manufacturers simply have a better presta design than a shcrader design, but the opposite may be true for another make/model of pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, given that you have a &lt;strong&gt;good&lt;/strong&gt; pump, it is equally as hard/easy to inflate a tube, and you will always find people that swears by othe or the other type, but the choice is yours. If you actually have the option, choose the one that is compatible with the best affordable pump that you have or can acquire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T18:24:14.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16728" CreationDate="2013-07-17T19:06:22.477" Score="1" ViewCount="20520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to setup my front derailleur. I've slackened off the cable, adjusted the L screw so the derailleur just clears the chain. What position should the adjusting barrel on the handles be set to and how tight should I pull the cable before tighten it to the derailleur? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to be getting rub in the middle gear at the front, but no run on the top and bottom cog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7498" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T19:34:08.563" Title="What tension should the front derailleur cable be when setting it up?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16727" CreationDate="2013-07-17T19:34:08.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not a set, single tension that works for all bikes. It's just trial and error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to pull it pretty tight before clamping it to the derailleur. Probably as tight as you can. Usually I find that's still not tight enough, so I screw the barrel adjuster down all the way before putting the cable in and then open it up until the tension is correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you do in fact have everything else set up correctly: if the derailleur is rubbing on the outside of the chain, you need a little more tension. If it's rubbing on the inside, you need a little less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you've swapped any parts out, you may be having some compatibility issues. Derailleurs have minimum and maximum chainring sizes. If you're just a smidge over or under those sizes, you're almost sure to get some rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find it, it wouldn't be a bad idea to look at the owner's manual for your particular derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T19:34:08.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16723" CreationDate="2013-07-17T19:48:43.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the auxiliary part of your question first, the 35/43 does not indicate a range of &lt;em&gt;rim&lt;/em&gt; widths, but rather an approximate range of compatible &lt;em&gt;tire&lt;/em&gt; widths. This is expressed in mm which is why it's the same for ISO and the French sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;C&quot; is indeed historical. Back in the day, a 700c tire and rim combination was such that the overall circumference was 700mm. There were also 700a, 700b, and 700d sizes. &quot;D&quot; was the widest tire size and in order to achieve the overall 700mm diameter, a smaller rim was used. Vice versa for 700a's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, we generally refer to a 622mm rim as a 700c and mount basically whatever tire size on it we want (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot;&gt;within certain limitations&lt;/a&gt;) and don't worry about the overall diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have personally never noticed a &quot;C&quot; or any other letter in an ISO size, but then again I pretty much ignore that. Despite the fact that the ISO is the International Organization for Standards, the de facto standard in bike sizing is the old and admittedly misleading French sizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T19:48:43.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16340" CreationDate="2013-07-17T21:39:49.463" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most advanced designs is the &quot;floating rotor&quot;, made of two different materials connected together. They look like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Is4FQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hope floating rotor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are exceptional brake rotors. They are very rigid and won't bend sideways easily. Overheating is much less of a problem for these. If they are getting overheated, they don't bend that much because of the material expansion. Usually the spider in the middle is made of aluminium alloy, but you can get rotors with carbon core. Carbon ones weigh less, but cost a lot more than with alloy spider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can get a full carbon rotor:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HCXGZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;full carbon disk brake rotor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are very expensive. Marketing materials for these say they are perfect, but you can easily spend a lot of money only on one rotor. I have never tried a carbon rotor or even seen one in flesh, only on pictures. You can also get a combination of carbon with ceramic spider and other space-tech materials. &lt;a href=&quot;http://kettlecycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;kettlecycles.com&lt;/a&gt; provide with examples of these. (Thanks @J-unior for the link)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the extremes I've seen is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/09/28/found-alligators-prototype-carbon-kevlar-ceramic-disc-brake-rotor/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;combination of carbon and ceramic in a disk brake rotor&lt;/a&gt;. Don't really think these are available in shops, but interesting to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go for single piece cheaper rotor, then you don't have such a big variation in materials: they are generally made of stainless steel. And here the shape is making a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get one of these: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k7tLZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hope Trials Disk Brake Rotor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd be able to stop on a dime, but you don't get a lot of modulation. These things will be like an on/off switch if combined with good pads. These are Hope trials rotors and I would not recommend using them for anything other than trials. (If you are doing trials, you should already know this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you have middle ground rotors with a lot of variations on patterns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zxKm5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hayes Disk Brake Rotor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the most common and most affordable with prices from £12 to £25. I do believe that in this category there is really not much difference in quality. But make sure that the pattern has overlapping holes: when the disk is dragged through the pads, there should not be a continuous line of solid material. Pads should have a way to clean themselves and if in a section of a rotor there is no gap, the pads will not self-clean, decreasing the overall performance. In this category choose the ones you like most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the last in the category are cheap and nasty rotors you get on bikes from Wal-Mart or Asda. They are usually heavy, easy to bend, with poor pattern. They look like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXDtN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cheap disk brake rotor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the material and type of construction don't forget that you have different diameters of the rotors: 145mm, 160mm, 180mm, 203mm and 205mm. The bigger the rotor, the more braking power you get and better heat distribution, but also the greater the weight. Usually downhillers go for 205mm rotors on the front and 180 on the rear. For more calm disciplines like XC 160mm rotors are more common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of the rotor must match your current one, but you can buy an adapter to place you disk brake caliper in the right position for the size of the rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you can get different types of mounts to the hub. The most popular is 6 hole international standard - on all of the rotors above. But you also get Shimano Centre Lock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q1pJu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano Centre Lock mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this type of mount you need to have a hub with the same mount or use adapters from 6-bolt to Centre lock. 8-10 years ago there used to be rotors with 5 and 4 holes for mounting, but you can't get them now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastEditorUserId="13505" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T06:03:38.937" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T06:03:38.937" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16700" CreationDate="2013-07-17T22:11:39.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem, but through trial and error learnt that actually &lt;em&gt;I was the problem,&lt;/em&gt; not the bike. If I change down to the desired gear before reaching the bottom of the ascent, there was no further problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7487" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T22:11:39.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16740" CreationDate="2013-07-18T00:46:00.300" Score="2" ViewCount="932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to replace the stock wheelset on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebikes/pdfs/09_aurora.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2009 Jamis Aurora&lt;/a&gt;.  I'm looking to replace wheels because I have a number of spokes break over the wheel lifetime and now my rear wheel is only in true from my own periodic adjustments, which are needed with increasing frequency.  The LBS indicated that wheel replacement would be more economical than wheel repair.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For compatibility considerations, I am looking at the following variables &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spacing (my stock hubs are shimano tiagras.  I think the spacing is 130mm for both)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tire diameter (700)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cassette compatibility (SRAM Powerglide 950, 9-speed, 11-32)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire compatibility (I current roll on 35 front 32 rear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there additional variables that I need to consider from a compatibility standpoint? I'm looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=506872&amp;amp;storeId=10053&amp;amp;catalogId=10052&amp;amp;langId=-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vuelta Corsa HD Road Wheelset&lt;/a&gt; because it is affordable and the reviews indicate that they're reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct in thinking this is a compatible choice?  Are there other variables that I need to consider?  And is this a poor choice?  I know a lot of people advocate hand-built wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7299" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-07-19T16:44:47.717" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T20:18:12.800" Title="Finding Correct Size Wheel for Bike" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16738" CreationDate="2013-07-18T03:40:17.790" Score="6" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UCI_ProTeam#List_of_current_UCI_ProTeams&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page on wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; lists the UCI Pro teams and has a column listing their Country. It is sourced from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uciworldtour.com/templates/UCI/UCI2/layout.asp?MenuId=MTYzMDE&amp;amp;LangId=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page on the UCI official site&lt;/a&gt;. What significance does this hold? Clearly each team doesn't have an obligation to only include riders from that country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the source of the association between teams and countries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T02:30:15.507" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T02:30:15.507" Title="In what sense are UCI Pro teams 'national' teams?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;uci&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16665" CreationDate="2013-07-18T04:40:13.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually easier to change rear cassette (or wheel) than the crank.   If you are really cheap, a fleamarket wheel might be the ticket, just check tor trueness and tight spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7509" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T04:40:13.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2013-07-18T11:05:25.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Giant Explorer’s frame had a sudden catastrophic failure a couple of weeks ago. The duralumin frame split in two without warning across both tubes as I was dismounting, with the two wheels completely separating. It is a mere 9 years old, I bought it new, no-one else has ever ridden it, and it has not been mistreated in any way. Being a roadster type with a built-in carrier it should be designed to carry a load. It has had a fair amount of use, but only on roads and cycle tracks, and mainly for shopping, travel or pleasure. The tubes fractured at what is clearly a weak point, where the cables entered the tubes. This should be a warning to other owners of this model  to check the frame in this area, especially the bottom tube. I was only relatively lightly injured, but it could have been far worse, even fatal, had I been in traffic or travelling at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7515" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T11:05:25.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-18T11:17:23.730" Score="7" ViewCount="28584" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is my used Ultegra 10-sp cassette wobbly to the touch on a new Ambrosio hub? All spacers present/correct and 11-sprocket well-seated before torquing 40nM lockring. I tried another (used) 10-sp 11-21 cassette on the same hub and there is no wobble for that one. Puzzled!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T00:52:05.793" Title="Why the wobbly/loose cassette?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2013-07-18T14:04:27.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a bearing that rachets between the cassette and the axle. If you are in a very low gear and crank hard up a hill, that bearing can get warped or crushed. (I did it, that's how I know). Bike mechanic can replace it ... they have the tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7516" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T14:04:27.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16733" CreationDate="2013-07-18T15:09:41.190" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The association is based on where the license holder of the team is located. Garmin Sharp is listed as USA since they are based in the US. Omega-Pharma (OPQS) has their license held by Esperanza bvba, which is based out of Belgium so the team is listed as being from Belgium, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T15:09:41.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8505" CreationDate="2013-07-18T17:07:26.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycledb.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BicycleDB&lt;/a&gt; is a new bicycle database with advanced filtering options. Filter on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame Material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gear Type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gear Model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel Size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake Type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake Brand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Year&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7518" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-07-18T17:15:49.570" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T17:15:49.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16732" CreationDate="2013-07-18T22:23:21.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the weight of you + your bike + your load should be a factor. At 200 + 28 + 30 lbs, your looking at close to 300 lbs. Consider 32h in the front and 36h in the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 32mm tires, look for rims that are 15-19mm wide inside, and for 35mm tires look for 17-21 mm wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm the same weight and have chosen 32h/36h but ride 38mm tires both front and back on 22m wide rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels you link to meet those specs, so good choice (except for them not being in stock yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6145" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T22:23:21.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16714" CreationDate="2013-07-18T22:46:23.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me &quot;58cm or so&quot; means, &quot;58cm, maybe 56 or 60.&quot; It doesn't mean 54cm. If a professional has said you should be on a 58, you should heed that. 4cm in the wrong direction could place your knees too far forward of the pedal spindles and be less efficient or even cause repetitive stress injuries to your knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, try fine tuning your current bike which sounds like is &quot;almost right&quot;. You have several options to make the 58cm bike shorter: moving the seat forward on the seatpost, replacing the seatpost with one that has less or no setback, and/or swapping out the stem with one that has a shorter reach. If it's an old Peugeot with a threaded stem, you can also adjust the handlebar height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combined cost of making all of those changes to the 58cm would likely be less than buying a different bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6145" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T22:46:23.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16662" CreationDate="2013-07-18T23:49:31.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are not worried about cosmetics, these dents won't affect the frame at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a massive dent on top tube of my Ti trials bike from bad crash. And rode the bike for years after that. And nothing happened to the frame. Titanium is very good in for this. Dents won't affect the overall lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T23:49:31.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16733" CreationDate="2013-07-19T00:00:05.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the UCI WorldTour the nationality doesn't matter too much, there the choice is made by the location of the comany behind it. Which does this with facors like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;where are the offices&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what taxation is in the country&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;which sponsors can they attract from that country (regitering in Cuba might be nice but you get no U.S.-based sponsors ;-) etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emplyoment laws relevant for drivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;certainly more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In lower racing series, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_UCI_Professional_Continental_and_Continental_teams&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UCI Professional continental teams&lt;/a&gt; the home of the team has impacts on access to specific races or prizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T00:00:05.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-19T19:31:24.000" Score="14" ViewCount="7258" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the several occasions I've gone mountain biking, I was using a nice borrowed bike with full suspension and it felt nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm told that rear suspension, though nice, is not necessarily a must-have. I have notions of the bike seat bludgeoning the ol' undercarriage without it. What is the ride like without rear suspension, what do I lose? And are there any suitable substitutes or ways to compensate for the lack of rear suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7415" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T14:05:44.057" Title="Am I going to get injured mountain biking if I don't have rear suspension?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16708" CreationDate="2013-07-19T19:44:50.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To ignore what may be a bad idea in terms of bicycle posture and address what seems to be central to your question, which is the reduction of flab, you need to know this about flab: &lt;strong&gt;You cannot spot-reduce&lt;/strong&gt;. With the exception of liposuction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your DNA determines where your fat ends up. You know how some ladies have normal upper bodies but have very large behinds? Yeah, you do. It's not because they're only active with their upper-half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have flab and then develop very strong abdomen muscles, you will have an awesome six-pack covered by flab. If you want the six-pack to show through, you have to lose the fat. Muscle tissue does not transform itself into fat tissue nor vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to reduce flab in one area of the body is to lose fat period. @Carey Gregory already answered this as a comment but here it is as an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend the excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0307474259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Why We Get Fat&lt;/a&gt; by Gary Taubes. Adiposity explained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7415" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T19:44:50.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5173" CreationDate="2013-07-19T21:26:52.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Daniel hicks said and also mentioned at the top, you would need 100% perfection in all your drive components to run a chain tight tight. Its just not possible to have all your machined parts to match for an over tight chain, something will be off somewhere! As mentioned if its not rolling off, its tight enough!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7529" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T21:26:52.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2013-07-19T21:57:23.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;ride single speed because its fun! if you are a fixie person a fixie is the bike for you. if you live in hilly areas, its not a problem. you dont need to be ripped, im 13 and i live on a hill. if you really are a fixie person, it wont matter. you can either get brakes for downhills or if youre willing to due to the fact that braking ruins the paint on the rims, you will walk down hills. it all depends on the person. if youre not willing to but you love fixies, you can buy a road bike and customize it to look how you want, just like a fixie&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7530" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T21:57:23.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16745" CreationDate="2013-07-19T22:21:15.320" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm told rear suspension is not a must have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's right, there is even a category in Down Hill races called &quot;hard tail&quot;, for people with, well, hard-tail bikes. And they kick some serious arses with those bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the ride like without rear suspension, what do I lose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to pay attention where you put that rear wheel on. With a full, you can let go more, either over very rocky terrain, either with jumps. But with a hard tail, there is a lower physical limit to what is possible to do. That doesn't mean it's less adventure. Most probably you won't need to go so fast to get a lot of adrenaline over tricky terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there suitable substitutes to compensate for the lack of rear suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. A strong wheel (rim, spokes, hub) and most importantly high-volume tires, preferrably 2.35 inches or wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T22:21:15.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16745" CreationDate="2013-07-19T22:54:09.127" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, when riding over &lt;em&gt;rough&lt;/em&gt; terrain you should be hovering &lt;strong&gt;above&lt;/strong&gt; your saddle, not sitting on the saddle.  This holds whether riding a hard tail (no rear suspension) or riding a full suspension bike. If you are sitting you have less ability to move your weight around, and therefore less control of the bike. When sitting it is easy for a large bump to throw you off balance making you crash or swerve into a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the trail is really steep and rough not only you should be off the saddle, but you should also be putting your weight behind the saddle.  Example below pictured below.  These riders are on downhill/freeride bikes (tons of suspension travel, 6-8 inches) and they are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; sitting on the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XogJv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So what advantages does rear suspension provide?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the terrain isn't too rough (smoother than the above picture) it can allow you to sit down and pedal in more circumstances than on a hard tail, which can especially help when climbing (assuming an efficient pedalling suspension design)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although your legs are the ultimate shock absorber (when hovering above the saddle) rear suspension supplements this natural suspension.  This can be critical when:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;absorbing hits from big obstacles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;landing off drops and jumps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;absorbing a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;ved=0CCwQFjAA&amp;amp;url=http://forums.mtbr.com/general-discussion/define-g-out-610225.html&amp;amp;ei=DsXpUYKiCcXiiAKr_oGACQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGhBWb1osAm1RS1W1CjwD-VOEC5Ew&amp;amp;bvm=bv.49478099,d.cGE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;g-out&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;absorbing a series of fast rapid bumps as your legs may not react fast enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rescuing you from stupid mistakes or a bad line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on the suspension design, the rear suspension can also improve braking as the rear tire is in better contact with the ground.  (&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/mountainbikecom/featured-stories/jacks-not-here-man&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Although in some suspension designs braking can negatively affect rear suspension performance and therefore traction.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What about hard tail?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To compensate for lack of rear suspension travel you need to use your legs more.  You should be riding above the saddle more often than with a full suspension bike.  For example, if you are pedalling over roots or rocks you need to learn to pedal while hovering over the saddle.  This lets the bike move over the terrain, maintaining traction and forward momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So what are the advantages of a hard tail?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard tails are typically lighter bikes (less parts), and can be more efficient to pedal especially on long climbs. As such they still have a following among Cross Country (XC) mountain bike racers on smother courses.  That said, I have personally found the efficiency gains can be easily lost in rougher terrain (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=squamish%20bc%20mountain%20biking&amp;amp;oq=squamish%20bc%20moun&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l3.7541j0&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Squamish BC&lt;/a&gt;).  Hard tails are also cheaper to manufacture (the frame doesn't have any moving parts) so you can get a better equipped bike for your dollar.  This makes hard tails good first bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hard Tail or Full Suspension&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or you choose hard tail or full suspension really depends on your experience, budget, riding style and roughness of your terrain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What constitutes &lt;em&gt;rough&lt;/em&gt; differs from area to area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally live and ride on the North Shore of Vancouver Canada which has some incredibly rough and steep trails (pictured above).  My XC bike has 5 inches of travel front and rear and I use all of it on XC rides.  It does not have enough travel for some of the more advanced downhill trails in our area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was visiting &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=bend%20oregon%20mountain%20biking&amp;amp;oq=bend%20oregon%20moun&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l3.5973j0&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bend Oregon&lt;/a&gt;, the riding was so smooth that my 5 inch XC bike was a rather silly choice and I would rather have been on a rigid (no suspension) bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end the choice is a personal one and the cost/benefit will be different for every rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Injuries&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Injuries really depends on a combination of your bike handling skill, your riding terrain, and your risk tolerance.  There is also the probability of crashing combined with extent of injuries.  Full suspension often lets people ride harder terrain than they might otherwise, which has potentially bigger consequences. Anecdotally, I have observed those with the most suspension also tend also to have the biggest injuries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2013-07-19T23:01:12.477" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T23:01:12.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16745" CreationDate="2013-07-19T23:42:22.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am I going to get injured mountain biking if I don't have rear suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like going fast and flowy on very rough terrain then your knees will have a lot of work to do. Feet and knees will get more tired. Whether they are injured depends on how long you'll keep pushing in that situation. Regarding injuries from falls, you'll fall more (than having a full susp.) only if you don't slow down a bit in order to compensate for the nervousness and instability of the hardtail when going fast in rough terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the ride like without rear suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rougher, slower, more technical, more dangerous, more rear snake bites (tyre punctures). For some people this means more fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;what do I lose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is more accurate and immediate because it transmits everything on you and translates all your movements into action. It doesn't forgive errors. So you are no longer able to easily go fast and safe. Thus you need to go a bit slower in order to be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And are there any suitable substitutes or ways to compensate for the lack of rear suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, your knees. In order to ride comparably to a full suspension you need to be more skilled on the bike. A lot of people with full suspension bikes who are serious about their riding also ride hardtails in order to gain that skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T02:07:49.153" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T02:07:49.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16745" CreationDate="2013-07-20T00:20:02.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in my student days, I could not afford full-suspension bike, so I rode hardtail with fat tyres and clipless pedals (to keep feet in position). The ride was rough, but I was not much slower than my mates on full-suspension bikes on the same trails. And sometimes when the trail was toooo technical (downhill trials), I was ahead of them. No hospital bills, no injuries related to type of bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are choosing what bike to get, but can't afford full suspension, go for the hardtail. Later on you'll figure out what exactly you need from the bike and how much suspension to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T00:20:02.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16745" CreationDate="2013-07-20T01:29:46.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one has mentioned rider weight as a factor. I'm around 220 with my Camelbak, etc., and I ride a Trek Fuel EX 8, mainly for cross-country and fairly non-technical trails. In addition I'm middle-aged. I ride road more than I ride dirt (2000-2500 miles/year), so I would say my bicycle handling skills are not really sharp in an off-road environment. Adequate, but far from exceptional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe younger and/or lighter riders have greater leeway to choose between HT and FS bikes, but older and heavier riders might be better off with FS for several reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FS weighs more and costs more, but it offers some benefits as well. It's much easier on the bod, more forgiving when it comes to bicycle handling skills (as others have noted), and it's more comfortable. It's better-suited to my cycling situation than a HT would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can climb certain trails on a FS bicycle which I probably couldn't climb on a HT. The rear suspension keeps the tire in contact with the dirt, and I'm riding for fitness and enjoyment, not racing, so the extra weight is acceptable for what it provides in collateral benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a vintage 1980's MTB which I have ridden off-road (it's been converted to more of a townie now), and the FS Trek is so much more enjoyable and comfortable to ride off-road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T01:29:46.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16756" CreationDate="2013-07-20T15:04:45.573" Score="1" ViewCount="2326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am re-wiring my bike lights to add a smartphone charger and improve the connections. Wires are going in pairs, one wire in a pair being marked with a white stripe. Since I am using LED lights, polarity is important. On &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/39450/what-do-solid-striped-lines-on-a-wire-indicate&quot;&gt;electronics SE&lt;/a&gt; and in many places on the Internet I found that the white-marked wire should go to the plus. However, my hub dynamo has the marked wire connected to the contact marked with the ground symbol (so it is connected to the frame). Usually in electronics the ground is negative. Is it a mistake of the bike manufacturer or am I missing something?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6976" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:10.577" LastActivityDate="2017-06-04T19:30:31.000" Title="Lights wiring polarity and wire marking" Tags="&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16755" CreationDate="2013-07-20T22:42:51.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No mistake - there is no standard. 50% of the time the strip is -ve, 50% positive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a multimeter - $10 for a cheapy, and remove any guess work......... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-07-20T22:42:51.277" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-21T01:27:03.823" Score="7" ViewCount="6371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at getting a wheelset with disc hubs and rim brakes to run on my disc and non-disc cross bikes. There are stock wheels that have velocity a23 rims, which are a poupular rim brake compatible rim. However, the stock wheelset tend not to have machined brake surfaces.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is not having a machined brake surface a problem? &#xA;Does it matter whether the rim is painted or anodized?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like some old heads seem to think that a machined sidewall was a marketing gimick made to stop brake squeal on new showroom bikes. Rivendell sell a lot of rim brake wheels without a machined surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jobst Brandt via Sheldon Brown:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/machined-rims.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/machined-rims.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rivendell (probably via Grant Peterson)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=52&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=52&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-07-21T22:21:27.737" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T22:33:33.757" Title="Does having machined brake surface on rims matter?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16348" CreationDate="2013-07-21T14:11:36.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also consider Co-Rider (&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/co-rider/id538095358?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/co-rider/id538095358?mt=8&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used it for turn-by-turn successfully and it does allow for GPX import although I can't confirm that you'll find both features working together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5651" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T14:11:36.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16755" CreationDate="2013-07-21T14:30:14.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;cheap dynamos create AC (which also works for LEDs) you can test that easily by reversing the polarity of the LEDs and see if they light up in both orientations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;just add a diode (or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;diode bridge&lt;/a&gt;) to the connection for the charger to go from AC to DC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5863" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T14:30:14.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2013-07-21T22:33:32.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;$11 Alternative-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lube the chain before storage.&#xA;Completely wrap and tape shut with some desiccant inside.  Seal it completely.  Low moisture should mean little rusting.&#xA;Hang it to prevent damage to the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home depot sells 10ft square painter's plastic sheets and desiccant for about $3 and $7.50 respectively.  This desiccant requires something like a double boiler to store the desiccant in. It absorbs moisture and drips into the lower container.  You can make this with old stackable tupperwear containers or buy it at the Home Depot for a few more dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Free Alternative-&#xA;Wrap it completely and forget about it until the spring.  It'll be just fine! That's what I'd be doing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7541" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T22:33:32.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-22T05:25:53.853" Score="4" ViewCount="8929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see that there are many types of aero bars, i.e., different designs. I am going to buy one but I am not sure which one is better.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here are two types of aero bar designs:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/raa1b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004TAD7AW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Type1&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ydQLa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004N969J0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Type2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first one is a bit straight and the second one with a rise towards the forward end.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can anyone please list the pros and cons of the 2 designs?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am new to cycling and I hope that this question is not closed as a product recommendation because I am asking about the design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="5567" LastEditDate="2013-07-22T10:51:48.137" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T07:08:28.490" Title="difference in aero bar design" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16761" CreationDate="2013-07-22T11:14:38.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a photograph of a professional rider (Matt Goss) that I took during a time trial at the Tour de France a couple of weeks ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hvr4S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly he's going to be using top-end kit, a dedicated bar rather than some bolt-on aero bars. But if you ignore that and look at his position, he is riding with dead flat bars - your first option, or close to it. I took a lot of photographs on that day and this was pretty much universal among the riders I watched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I have no idea why this is, so I'm only really offering an insight rather than a proper answer. When you look how low his hands are compared to his head, it is difficult to imagine that having his hands a few inches higher (i.e. using the second shape) would make any difference as regards aerodynamics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there again, these guys will have spent hours in wind tunnels working on their TT position, so it is probably not a bad assumption to say that the position we see the rider in is pretty much his optimum position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in terms of aerodynamics I would suspect your first bars are better, but I have no real idea why this is, other than that's how I've seen the professionals ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T11:14:38.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16761" CreationDate="2013-07-22T14:57:55.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, one small point. The two pictures show different types of extensions, not bars. Bars are still what the extensions attach to (Commonly called either aerobars or bullhorns). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extensions come in various types, including (but not necessarily limited to) S bend, F bend, straight, skip tip. Each have their advantages and disadvantages. &lt;em&gt;Most&lt;/em&gt; wind tunnel tests have shown that the hands angled slightly down so the line is straight along the tops of the wrist arms is faster. However, this may not be comfortable for some people depending on distance and position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of just as much if not more important is the shape of the base bar, and the extensions/pad system being used. The entire aerobar/extension setup (Commonly referred to as the cockpit) is also highly dependent on rider position, and often the canard used in the TT/triathlon world is that you almost determine your cockpit first, and then your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second point, the photo being shown of Matt Goss is a bike that is set up according to UCI rules. These are very stringent, and regulate such things as the angle of the forearms according to the ground, the position of the seat front to back in relation to the BB, etc. If you remember the Levi Leipheimer praying mantis position, that would now be illegal according to UCI rules. They also dictate the shape of the aerobars and other factors (Such as a water bottle cage mounted between the arms. Wind tunnel tests have shown this is one of the best options, but is illegal according to UCI rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat- One of the last Tours that Levi did, his bike was set up according to UCI rules, but he had it at the limits and was still able to approximate his praying mantis position. I remember Liggett commenting on it at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, unless you are competing in a specific National level time trial or higher where UCI rules apply, you can safely ignore the UCI guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is a huge impact both in comfort and performance, I highly suggest you get with an experienced fitter. Time trial/triathlon frames and setups are vastly different, as are the measurements and frame designations. (A 54cm is not necessarily a 54 cm, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2013-07-22T16:23:35.723" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T16:23:35.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16757" CreationDate="2013-07-22T22:33:33.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rim walls are machined, if not for aesthetical or marketing reasons, to give the braking surface of rims most regular shape possible, removing small irregularities which could cause &quot;hard spots&quot; while braking, specially around the seam (spot where both ends of the rim are connected together during manufacturing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it seems to me that the residual grooved pattern improves braking power, most probably due to increased contact surface and possibly dirt clearance issues, without noticeable increase in pad wear, but I have no objective data to support this impression except a positive personal experience with a handful of machined-wall rims with v-brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T22:33:33.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2013-07-23T04:05:56.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using currently using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.quadlockcase.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quad Lock mount&lt;/a&gt; with an iPhone5. I'm having no issues with it and the GPS is very accurate. Battery life is still a concern, but turning off LTE, Bluetooth and Wireless, while turning on Do Not Disturb; I'm seeing less then 10% battery usage per hour. I don't have any hardware for it yet, but looking at the new low-power bluetooth Heart Rate monitor (probably Polar H7) and a Wahoo cadence sensor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm looking at using next is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wahoofitness.com/Products/Wahoo-Fitness-Wahoo-RFLKT-iPhone-Powered-Bike-Computer.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wahoo RFLKT&lt;/a&gt;. This lets me using all the features of Cyclemeter, but allows me to protect my phone in my jersey pocket, or in my gear bag. The rain cover is nice, but the jarring of some of the trails, the heat, and me dripping sweet on it has me a bit worried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say, the GPS though seems to be extremely accurate, even when comparing it to my buddies Garmin Edge 500. I'll have to import both into Google Maps (Strava and Cyclemeter will adjust the gpx to fit on roads and trails) to see how they compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T04:05:56.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2013-07-23T06:00:34.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Australia and New Zealand you can't be arrested directly for speeding (you can instead  be arrested for failing to stop or not obeying police instructions etc once you attract police attention). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.nsw.gov.au/maintop/view/inforce/subordleg+179+2008+cd+0+N&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Australian road rules&lt;/a&gt;: chain it together as &quot;20   Obeying the speed limit A driver must not drive at a speed over the speed limit ...&quot; through &quot;19 References to driver includes rider etc&quot; to &quot;17   Who is a rider (1)  A rider is the person who is riding a motor bike, bicycle, animal or animal-drawn vehicle.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can be ticketed for speeding, even though you are not required to have any means to know your speed. For example in Centennial Park in Sydney there is a 30kph limit and fairly regularly the police track and occasionally ticket cyclists there. On public roads it's much less common but does happen. Examples &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inmycommunity.com.au/news-and-views/local-news/School-zone-lesson-for-fast-cyclist/7615186/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;56kph in 40kph zone&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.couriermail.com.au/news/queensland/cyclists-caught-speeding-in-brisbane-cbd-face-fines-demerit-points-and-sometimes-a-magistrate/story-e6freoof-1225860037538&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Can be ticketed&quot; article with possible mention of a fine being issued&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In NZ I've seen cyclists prosecuted for disorderly behaviour because that's a catch-all for &quot;things we don't like&quot; and can be applied to anyone (NZ and Australia both count skateboards etc as &quot;toy vehicles&quot; and people on them count as pedestrians).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T06:13:15.573" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T06:13:15.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16761" CreationDate="2013-07-23T07:08:28.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each of the two is comfortable for some, not so much for others. I occasionally turn a wrench in a shop that caters to Triathletes and by FAR the preference is the straighter bars (S-bars). Most of those that go with the J-bars are doing so with a conscious decision to exchange comfort for a bit more power (and while the Triathlon bike portion is similar to a TT, comfort biking plays a much bigger role as you still have to run once you finish the bike). The J-bars force your wrists into a position where they are under tension, you have to grip the bar even if just lightly. With the S-bar you can cut the length to where the palm of your hand is just resting on the end and can ride with very little tension in the arm; the (small) con with the S-bar is that you can't use as much upper-body when powering up a hill or going for a hard acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of the pictures are of clip-ons and both share a couple weaknesses. These are designed to be added to a road bike and doing a Triathlon or TT fit on a road bike with clip-ons is going to be less than ideal. For other purposes, they do offer an additional position that you can ride, but they also take away a position; you can now ride with your forearms on the clip-ons, but you lose the position of having your hands on the straight portion of your drop-bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clip-ons also, generally, leave the shifting where it was, so if you are using the clip-ons for TT/Tri, you put yourself at a disadvantage of having to move your arm to shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking at this for purposes of a Tri, I'd recommend holding off until you are ready to buy a Tri bike. Just ride your road bike in the mean time. You can actually get in a better aero position on a road bike by using your drops than you can by adding clip-ons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go with clip-ons, as others have mentioned, get a good bike fit from someone with experience with TT/Tri fits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T07:08:28.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2013-07-23T07:18:30.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: Different cassettes may need different spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless there is a defect in the cassette or freewheel, it should not wobble (at all!) when properly installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try removing and cleaning the cassette (a bit of dirt can cause it to get skewed a bit). When you put the cassette back on, make sure there is about 1 mm of cassette sticking past the freewheel hub before putting on the locking ring. If the cassette is not sticking past, then (just like a compression headset), you won't be able to tighten it properly and you will need to put additional spacers behind the cassette. Tightening a lock ring without the correct spacing can also easily strip the lock ring (which is better than stripping the threads in the freewheel, but will still ruin your afternoon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is still ANY wobble, a visit to your LBS may be in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T07:18:30.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15420" CreationDate="2013-07-23T11:04:47.023" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Garmin Edge 800, 810 and 1000 can be charged when exercise is active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use for example power bank or usb dynamo charger (ie. Busch&amp;amp;Muller E-werk, Luxos U light or Supernova The Plug).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not recommended to charge anything with usb when it is raining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that Garmin 1000's plug is in the bottom so cable might not fit when device is mounted on handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7554" LastEditorUserId="20002" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T01:46:52.813" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T01:46:52.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2013-07-23T12:52:52.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To tighten, Rotate any of the pedal same direction of the WHEEL's ROTATION if it were to motion FORWARD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EASY huh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7555" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T12:52:52.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16772" CreationDate="2013-07-23T13:05:12.070" Score="12" ViewCount="49547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace my current drop bars. I like the width just fine and would like to get a new set that is the same width (or at least close to it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is the width measured? Is it the overall outer width? The width between the center of the bar ends? The width between the inner edges of the bar ends? The width of the flats up until the curve? Something completely different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T05:48:43.063" Title="How is the width of drop bars measured?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16771" CreationDate="2013-07-23T13:25:55.547" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common measurement I've seen is c-c (centre to centre), the distance between the two horizontal tops of the drops, running parallel with the stem and behind the hoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't make sense, see the following image.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cOQcc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bar size explanation.&quot;&gt;&#xA;Image credit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2010/12/28/tech-how-to-choose-the-correct-road-bike-handlebar-size-shape/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bikerumour.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you're right to check this as not everyone does it this way. The internal or external sizes might also be interesting if you're wondering how much space the bike will take to store or what size bar bag might fit between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T19:54:29.300" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T19:54:29.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16774" CreationDate="2013-07-23T16:28:23.237" Score="5" ViewCount="8172" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I browse on-line bike shops disc brakes are listed as &quot;front&quot; or &quot;rear&quot; e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://screambikes.eu/en/26-mtb-disc-brakes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I have never noticed any difference between front and rear brakes - disc or V-brake, hydraulic or mechanic. Except the cable/tube length(but moat brakes are sold without attached cable/oil tube). So &lt;strong&gt;what is the difference between a front and rear disc brake&lt;/strong&gt;, if any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T16:34:33.367" Title="What is the difference between &quot;front&quot; and &quot;rear&quot; disc brake?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16773" CreationDate="2013-07-23T16:34:33.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The length of the cable/hose and the braking lever - Left for front, Right for Rear. There really isn't any real difference. If you change out the cable/hose you can hook either up and they will work the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is generally true for most brakes, the differences generally deal with bolt, spacer, and cable/hose length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T16:34:33.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16562" CreationDate="2013-07-23T16:59:56.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Statistics of pushing mountin bike at a steep ascent/descent or/and very difficult terrain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Activity           time-before-tired    stability    time-to-switch    speed-of-travel   clearance   1st-hand   2ns-hand&#xA;------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;Ride               *                    *            **                *****             *           handlebars handlebars&#xA;Push               ****                 **           *****             *                 *           handlebars handlebars&#xA;Lean               *****                **           ****              *                 *           handlebars stem&#xA;Safe-push          ***                  ***          ****              *                 *           handlebars seat-tube&#xA;Low-carry          **                   ****         ***               **                **          handlebars seat-tube&#xA;Medium-carry       ****                 ****         **                **                ***         free       down-tube&#xA;Shoulder-carry     ***                  **           *                 **                ***         free       down-tube&#xA;High-carry         *                    **           *                 ***               *****       fork       seat-stay&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes&lt;/strong&gt;:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always strive to hold the bike near the center of gravity.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holding the bike at the handlebars has the aim of controlling at lest one of the brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;em&gt;stability&lt;/em&gt; characteristic is important only on dangerous terrain. For example, if the bike hits a hidden bump and swing at you, pushing you at a void to you death, this is important.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;time-to-switch&quot; characteristic indicates the time to go to the position of holding your bike, ready to mount. This is important when the terrain is widely unknown and switching between riding/pushing/carrying happens very often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have fun!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T16:07:49.860" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T16:07:49.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16778" CreationDate="2013-07-23T20:30:27.870" Score="1" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in the suburbs where there are many routes for road cyclists to go for rides.  I assume these cyclists are riding for fun and/or exercise and/or to train for some kind racing events.  Sometimes they are alone, other times they are in pairs or small groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cyclists have big logos on their shorts and shirts.  What are on the logos?  Where do they get them?  I don't see these in the online bike equipment stores.  I can only guess that these are associated with professional racing.  In any case, it seems that casual cycling folks don't have normal access to big-logo gear.  Where would I get some?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't mean to sound judgemental, but I see it a lot but don't know where the gear comes from.  I am curious about biking communities and what they wear.  I am interested in hearing from those who wear such gear.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T21:40:59.343" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T15:09:45.797" Title="What is the logo gear worn by non-commuter cyclists?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16777" CreationDate="2013-07-23T21:09:23.440" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different types of logos which get worn for different reasons. Bike clothing may include logos associated with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clothing manufacturers: An otherwise plain jersey will often include the logo of the manufacturer. This is common for athletic clothing in general.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Employers: Companies often make jerseys with their logos that (presumably satisfied) employees can wear to show spirit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sponsors of professional teams: Fans of professional cycling teams may choose to buy articles of clothing that are replicas of the official team uniforms. These items include the logos of the companies that sponsor the pro team.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Local clubs or teams: A local cycling club may have their own un-sponsored logos. Organizations can order custom kit in much the same way people order custom t-shirts or team bowling shirts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sponsors of local clubs or teams: A local cycling club may have team apparel that includes logos of the local bike shop and other local companies that sponsor the team. These items may be offered at reduced prices or even for free to club members.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Races or organized rides: Some races and supported rides give or sell participants commemorative jerseys, which may serve as a memento or badge of honor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Advocacy groups or messages: Cyclists may wear clothing to show support for a message or for an advocacy or non-profit group. For example, jerseys may include designs featuring the &quot;share the road&quot; message.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Abstract design: Jerseys and shorts may feature designs that are designed to just look good. For example, one manufacturer sells jerseys featuring an imaginary team and based on professional kit from  50 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T15:09:45.797" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T15:09:45.797" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16777" CreationDate="2013-07-23T22:25:32.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that we're talking about something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ELes3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking online you have to search a bit to find a &quot;classic&quot; example, but on the road I see a lot of cyclists with such jerseys, sporting various brands, and at least one nearby shop doesn't seem to carry anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T22:25:32.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16777" CreationDate="2013-07-24T01:25:03.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, a matching top and bottom and sometimes a cap is referred to as a kit. Why a kit? I don't really know. The top often has three pockets on the lower back for snacks/sunglasses/etc., a longer cut at the bottom to hide certain cracks when leaned over, and a higher cut on the front to prevent bunching. The shorts or even bibs have what is called a chamois in the crotch which makes for a more comfy long distance ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like many other pro sports teams they allow for easy recognition. The logos are often sponsors, the bigger the logo, the bigger the sponsor. For example the US team sponsored by the USPS or Discovery Channel or Garmin. The sponsor probably pays for a lot of the team expenses also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-pro groups can order their own kits from a lot of manufacturers. Groups could be a corporate affiliation, a bike shop for stock, a social group, etc. Usually a minimum order is required, and the price drops as quantity goes up. One could get sponsors to pony up some money for the order, partial or full, or make the group members pay for all costs. Vendors usually provide a graphical template for laying out your design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro fit may refer to slimmer sizing, where club fit may refer to more traditional sizing. There may be other more common terms for these but that is what I call them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO, this brand makes some pretty cheesy but flashy jerseys and also accepts custom orders:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.primalwear.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.primalwear.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7563" LastEditorUserId="7563" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T01:34:32.403" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T01:34:32.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2013-07-24T08:53:16.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fitness - Schedule rides with breaks in between. Normally you would try to schedule a hard (long) ride once a week and a couple of easier rides - 3 rides a week maximum to begin with. The worst thing you can do is too much. To little will take you a bit longer to get fit, too much will set you back with fatigue, soreness and demoralize you - if it does not injure you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are very unfit, start with no more than 2 rides in any one week, at least 2 days apart. (Say Monday and Thursday). Start by going slowly, and build distance before speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first target is getting to ride 8 Miles. Build this up slowly, and take your time to establish a starting point or &quot;baseline&quot; - start with an easy target. I suggest 1 mile (on flat ground) at a slow pace. If you feel really comfortable, do the loop again. Two days later, do the same ride and see how it feels. If its easy, add distance, if is hard (but not too hard), that is good. If too hard, drop it a bit. You will probably get a bit stiff and sore - remember the &quot;no pain no gain&quot; mantra from the gym - forget it. A bit of discomfort is expected, pain is bad. Once you have a baseline, build it by not more than 10% a week - 5% is probably a better target till you get used to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is possible to leave you bike at work, build distance with the aim to ride to work on one day and ride home the next, slowly dropping rest days. Once you are doing this comfortably, ride to and from work one day and rest the next. Do this for a few weeks then increase the number of days you ride to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are ready - start working on speed - ask another question here specifically around speed when you can comfortably do 3 *8 miles a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key thing is listen to your body. If you are getting more fatigued each ride, ride less. You do not get fit exercising, you get fit recovering from exercise. Your body needs rest days, you may need to rest for a week. Take it....... Elite athletes have off seasons for good reason, and many training programs have a monthly cycle with 1 week being very easy workouts only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T08:53:16.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16562" CreationDate="2013-07-24T09:42:34.810" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a lot of trails where it is almost impossible to ride up and sometimes not even practical to push the bike up, and it is easier to carry. I've got a full suspension mountain bike with no space inside of the triangle, so it is not possible to shoulder it. And carry a bike on my back, rather than on a shoulder. Bottom tube is resting on my shoulders with rear wheel on right from my head and front wheel on left from my head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Km6A6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Carrying bike on back&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helps if you have a backpack, as the bottom tube rests on it. After some practice you can have both of your hands free, while bike comfortably sits on pack. This way bike does not get in your way and you can hike quite a big distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPD:&lt;/strong&gt; This position is not the quickest to put the bike up, but I find it the most comfortable when climbing. To get the bike up, stand on non-chain side of a bike, place left pedal (closes to you) in the lowest position, grab with one hand the left crank and fork stantion with the other hand. Lift the bike over your head and on your shoulder/backpack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastEditorUserId="1896" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T13:43:34.197" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T13:43:34.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16790" CreationDate="2013-07-24T11:58:23.240" Score="3" ViewCount="2824" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commuter bike (a cheap-ish MTB) is in need of new gears. As I never use the &quot;granny chainring&quot;, I was thinking about switching to a 2-piece crankset, to save tome weight. However, I am unable to locate such parts in my favorite on-line bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Are 2-chainring cranksets direct replacement to a 3-piece ones? Are they affordable or are already some sort of exotic expensive equipment?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T16:11:53.327" Title="Can I replace a 3-gear crankset with a 2-gear one cheaply and efficiently?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2013-07-24T13:28:22.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short: Lots of steady light, but don't dazzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple rear lights help a lot, both for redundancy (if the battery dies) and to give other road users an idea of how fast they're approaching.  I have 2 steady and 1 flashing, and may add another to my helmet before winter.  The benefit of multiple lights is really noticeable when approaching a bike from behind, fast, in the dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the front, I have a 900 lumen rechargeable, for which I carry a spare battery, and a little LED on the front fork - again, multiple points of light help define the shape, which is why I've got extra spoke reflectors and light-up valve caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note on high-power front lights though:&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They are meant to light up the road, not to shine in someone's eyes.  If a driver or another cyclist has 900lm+ shone in their eyes, they will know that something is there, but not know where &quot;there&quot; is very well.  These lamps are almost as bright as a car headlight, and there's a reason headlights are generally required to be dipped in the face of oncoming traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I can see no use case for super bright strobes either - even if they don't shine directly into someone's eyes they don't do a good job of marking out where you are, and they're rubbish for illuminating the road - leave the super bright on steady, and by all means add as many small flashers as you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of this dates back to before I commuted by bike (as a driver who wanted to be nice to cyclists), but with a mix of busy (though generally quite bike-friendly) roads and completely dark paths, I've reached the same conclusions from the other direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T13:28:22.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16784" CreationDate="2013-07-24T16:11:53.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On MTB you don't get such thing as 2-chainring cranksets. Cranksets come in parts: cranks, bottom bracket and chainrings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are buying crankset separately, chainrings are not included. This is to provide a better flexibility in chainring selection: different materials, shapes and tooth numbers. On cheap cranksets you can not separate chainrings, and in this case you'll need to replace the whole assembly. So one of your options would be to check if your crankset allows to remove the granny ring. If you have chainring bolts there, you are in luck: take the granny ring off and adjust the front mech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your chainrings are moulded into the crankset, you'll have to replace the crankset, and that might be not a simple business. In this case it's quite likely that you have square taper bottom bracket and these days it is not easy to find a descent crankset for square taper. So you'll have to replace the bottom bracket as well... and this can be a world of cash spent just for removing a granny ring. Not really worth it, unless you want a better quality/lighter cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T16:11:53.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2013-07-24T16:36:42.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can get a used hybrid bike or a mountain bike with slicks( thinner than mtb tires = easier commute) for around 100 dollars or may be less. You can ride hybrid or mountain bike with slicks on simple trails.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your idea is good about gradually increasing distance. Start with 1-2 miles a day each way, stick to same distance for a week. If you are comfortable, add a mile next week and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wear layers of clothing as cycling raises the body temperature, you can peel off as needed. &#xA;Get a bright reflective vest and bright lights on front and rear of bicycle, be seen be safe. Cheap plastic fenders do a great job if where you live rains often. Please get warm gloves. Skiing gloves are great. If you have thin ones, layer up the gloves. It works fairly effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Helmet, lights and reflective clothing are must haves during all times on a bike. Get some spare inner tubes, tire levers, pump and learn how to change a tube in case you get a flat. Some cash for bus fare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the commute less dreadful, plan your route along a bus route(if feasible and safe). In case you get tired or have some problem with your bike. You can take the bus and it is good to know that you won't be stranded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a trial commute on a weekend and see how much time you need to allocate to arrive at your work. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about your current fitness. Take it easy and work gradually. Within a few months of bicycling you will notice changes in fitness/general health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastEditorUserId="7416" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T21:42:18.760" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T21:42:18.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16796" CreationDate="2013-07-24T18:00:57.407" Score="-2" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a tour for 200-400km by tar road. What precautions should I take during the tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much distance should I cover per day?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much speed should I maintain and what gear setting shall I prefer for less dehydration and other problems?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What items should I carry for cycle maintenance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What items should I carry in first aid kit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What precautions should I take during tour?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have hybrid bike for this tour is it fine for this tour.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bsahercules.com/Product-Features.asp?pid=200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bsahercules.com/Product-Features.asp?pid=200&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Other tips are also welcomed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7MN5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hercules Act 110&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5818" LastEditorUserId="5818" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T18:10:16.260" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T01:19:59.017" Title="What are important items should I carry if I am plannig for 200 - 400 km" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2013-07-30T16:55:37.723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16792" CreationDate="2013-07-24T20:04:55.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In my experience it is normal to cover about 150-200 km in a day (provided you are well trained and equipped).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The speed you can maintain is dependent on many factors like your training, type of bike (hybrid/mtbs are slower than road/touring with drop bars) and also the nature of terrain, weather, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spare tubes, tire levers, pump, patch kit, tools like allen wrench/ spaner set suitable for your bike, brake/shifter cables, lights, batteries, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Basic first aid kit with neosporin, bandage cloth, cotton swabs, bandaids, asprin, any other medication you need/use.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be seen. Wear bright clothing, ride your bike defensively. Take breaks as necessary. Get cycling shorts/bib shorts. &#xA;I would change the saddle from that picture, it looks uncomfortable for long rides. Eat before you are hungry and drink before you get thirsty. Very easy to bonk on long rides if it is not supported and the rider is not consuming enough food/water.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Training is mandatory, I trained for about 12 weeks before I did my first 160 km ride. After the ride I felt I that should have trained more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't bought the posted bike, I would suggest you to look into road style bike/ touring bike with drop handle bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T20:04:55.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-24T23:59:23.937" Score="10" ViewCount="4890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would sometimes like to transport my tandem by car, and it would be convenient to use one of those &quot;strap-on&quot; bumper carriers.  Is it feasible to use this type of carrier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T20:24:13.420" Title="Can I carry my tandem on a bumper carrier?" Tags="&lt;car-rack&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16794" CreationDate="2013-07-24T23:59:23.937" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, yes it is possible...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tandem is loaded onto the carrier at an angle, it won't extend much beyond the width of the car or minivan (maybe not at all for a larger vehicle).  It's not totally clear in the following picture, but the horizontal bars are tilted up a bit to make it more secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6sIFF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tandem on carrier&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's necessary to bungee-cord the bike or otherwise secure it otherwise it'll tend to slide &quot;down&quot; (in my case, the front will tip down, which will make it stick out on the driver's side).  I use 2 cords to secure it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vKdoh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bungees&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I immobilize the bars so that the wheel doesn't flop while loading/unloading (and while removing the front wheel, which I have to do to keep it from sticking out on the driver's side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not clear in the picture, but behind our mini-van, the front forks don't stick out at all, and the rear wheel sticks out maybe an inch beyond the width of the van.  Also, the bar-ends I have don't stick up above the roof box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it looks ridiculous, the same technique can be used on a small car:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEwct.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mazda tandem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike doesn't actually stick out beyond the width of the car as much as it appears to in the picture, it's less than a foot on each side.  It does stick way way up above the car, however, so when I've done this (only a couple times) I'm very careful about going into underground parking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2302" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T23:59:23.937" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16792" CreationDate="2013-07-25T01:19:59.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many days do you have for the tour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just about anyone (including my polio self) can do 60 miles (100 km) in a day, so long as there aren't too many hills and there isn't a bad headwind.  Rain will slow you down (and can make the ride miserable) but won't stop you unless it's very heavy or the weather is especially cold.  (Hail, on the other hand, &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; stop you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 miles a day (160 km) is reasonable for someone who is fairly well trained, if the weather and hills cooperate.  And most people who aren't quite so well trained can do that distance &quot;unreasonably&quot; if pressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydration isn't necessarily a big deal.  You should have at least two 16 oz water bottles (readily accessible), which you fill several times a day.  You don't need more unless you'll be far from civilization or riding in unusually hot conditions.  Drink before you're thirsty.  Get in the habit of taking a swig every 10 minutes or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For maintenance you need mainly tire repair tools and a multi-purpose tool made for bikes.  For first aid a few Band-Aids, some antibiotic ointment, maybe some gauze and tape.  And your water bottle (for washing off wounds).  Your likely injuries are minor cuts from sharp edges of the bike plus &quot;road rash&quot;.  Also have sun lotion and bug spray.  And some hydrocortisone ointment is nice to have for bug bites and &quot;butt burn&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precautions:  Wear a helmet!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing wrong with that bike, for such a short trip.  Just keep the tires inflated to the max sidewall pressure.  If you were biking across the US you might want something different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T01:19:59.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16802" CreationDate="2013-07-25T04:30:54.843" Score="5" ViewCount="3062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a relatively new cyclist (started about 4 months ago).  Lately, I've noticed that I have numbness and tension/pain in my left hand (but not my right one) throughout my ride.  Every 15-20 minutes or so I have to take my left hand off the bike and stretch my fingers a bit.  I feel like there is some kind of imbalance in the way I ride, but I can't pinpoint what it is or how to correct it.  Can anyone suggest things I can do to try to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's relevant, here's some random info on my riding.  I'm not doing super-long distances or anything -- I ride about 10 miles 4 days a week and maybe 30 miles once a week (and this is near Houston, so there are no hills).  I've been riding a Specialized Secteur Sport which was fitted for me at my LBS (though this was not a very intense fitting -- it took maybe 15-20 minutes).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7306" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T22:17:33.210" Title="Pain in left hand" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16797" CreationDate="2013-07-25T05:42:07.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the saddle is too high and the handle bars are not positioned appropriately, you may be exerting a fair amount of weight on your hands.&#xA;Check if the handle bars are centered.&#xA;Check if you are sitting properly centered on the saddle, slight lean can cause uneven distribution of weight at your hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you  left handed and use computer mouse often?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above mentioned are the things I would check. In any case, don't neglect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strongly recommend that you consult a doctor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastEditorUserId="7416" LastEditDate="2013-07-25T22:17:33.210" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T22:17:33.210" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16797" CreationDate="2013-07-25T08:07:05.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your brakes, maybe they lack braking force and you squeeze them way too hard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust your riding position to the best practices (google it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a nice pair of grips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same thing about riding gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nothing helps - consult your physician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T08:07:05.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16797" CreationDate="2013-07-25T11:05:36.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found something similar with the stock grips on my GT Traffic hybrid even with decent padding on the palms of my gloves.  I switched to something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ergon-gp3-formerly-gr2-handlebar-grips/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these ergo grips with mini bar ends built in&lt;/a&gt; - I think mine were the old version - and have had no issues since.  You do need to get the angle of both palm-pad and bar end right for you, and probably brakes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really use the bar ends on my commute - too far from the brakes given the riding conditions for much of the route - so it's the grips that do it for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T11:05:36.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16797" CreationDate="2013-07-25T12:21:20.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your comment about where your pain centers, it sounds as though your median nerve is acting up. The likeliest causes of this for a cyclist are leaning too hard on the slight depression in the middle of the base of your palm, OR a hand position that twists your hands (inward/outward and/or up/down) relative to your wrists. Check for these next time you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do see a doctor if you can (you may have to be firm about being referred to a physical therapist or sports-medicine expert). It's easiest to deal with this soon after it is noticed, certainly before it is debilitating. (Which it can be. My non-cycling-caused ulnar neuropathy had me holding my hand against myself so no one would so much as touch it, and it took six solid months of punishing therapeutic massage -- don't be fooled; physical-therapy massage is NOT gentle or enjoyable! -- to rid me of it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Varying your hand positions may help avoid the problem in future; I would recommend ESPECIALLY avoiding the brake hoods, as they can hit RIGHT where you don't want them to. Your bicycle has drop bars, so you can experiment. I have found that my Velo Orange trekking bars somehow manage to avoid ever letting me rest my hand on that central depression, and allow at least two neutral hand-wrist positions, so changing bars might also help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why left hand rather than right? It may not be anything in your cycling, though you can certainly watch for something. Our bodies aren't perfectly symmetrical, and general stress on them isn't either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! I hope you resolve this quickly and as painlessly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastEditorUserId="3631" LastEditDate="2013-07-25T12:26:37.657" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T12:26:37.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7736" CreationDate="2013-07-25T13:18:13.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the above are great answers.  Here is my 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a rear rack.  This is a must so you don't have to lug a backpack around, let the bike carry the weight.  While a backpack is good for a book or 2, they are not comfortable filled with clothes in them, then you start sweating.  When I started I bought Topeak MTX rack and bungee corded a gym bag to it, later I got one of the matching bags.  My wife started 2 months ago with a backpack, so I got her the same setup.  First ride with it was day and night to her.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;GPS logger/tracker.  Tap into &quot;must beat my high score&quot; nature we all have.   I personally use Endomondo on my android phone to log my bike rides.  Before that I got a cheap cycle computer to display speed and odometer.  Then you have a way to track your progress with some numbers, share (brag) about it to your friends and family.  Also useful for routine maintenance checks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Air compressor (if you have a house/garage).  Floor pumps are great, help you get in shape to squeeze the last pound into the tire.  However you will need it for other things and it is quicker.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T13:18:13.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-25T13:18:34.083" Score="3" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok I'll try to be brief. I want to take a bike tour from Tuttlingen, Germany to Milan, Italy. I am 21 years old, in pretty good endurance shape, but am not an incredibly avid biker by any means. At home, I own a $400 bike and go on 40-50 mile bikes every once in a while. Since arriving here a month and a half ago, I have either gone on a 6+ mile run or a 40km+ bike (ranging up to 70km) every other day. Also, my bike is pretty bad here, I bought it for 70 bucks, but I can average 15-16 mph on it on flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for information on the route &quot;Via Claudia Augusta.&quot; In total my trip is 550km and I am looking to complete it in 5 days. Does anybody have first hand experience traveling through the Alps, or even this particular route? Every territory has some unique things you need to know, and I am looking for further information than I can find online that may help me complete this tour. Specifically, I'm wondering how mountainous (up and down) the route is. I am pretty sure I can cover 150km+ in a day on flats, but in the Alps I have absolutely no idea how far I could go. Can someone help give me some perspective on how much distance I would be able to cover using this route per day? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7572" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T20:19:08.067" Title="Biking Tour Through the Alps: Via Claudia Augusta" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16833" CreationDate="2013-07-25T14:32:38.883" Score="0" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built a Single speed bike based on a old Road bike frame.&#xA;What I want to do is to install a luggage carrier to the front for some daily transports (because i like the retro look of those carriers).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But I don't want it to be permanently installed on my bike if there's any way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does anyone know a possibility for a (removable) luggage carrier for a Road bike frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6072" LastEditorUserId="6072" LastEditDate="2013-07-25T14:37:08.293" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T16:50:34.753" Title="front luggage carrier for a single speed bike" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8830" CreationDate="2013-07-25T15:56:20.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It goes down to where are you riding, Flat or hill, 20 meters difference on height is not a hill.&#xA;Keep it simple! the less gears you can have in your bike, the easier will be the upkeep, where 5 gears is optimum for flat area, and 21 for hills.&#xA;Do not buy a cheap bike, insist on good quality brakes and gear.(not excellent, as it is expensive without reason) &#xA;If you are not planing on going off road, use sleek road tires, even on a mountain bike.&#xA;No back suspension, as it will take your power away while pulling a trailer.&#xA;I used to pull on a trailer, get one that fits properly to the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7573" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T15:56:20.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16805" CreationDate="2013-07-25T16:01:36.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removable makes it unsafe, as it will jump up and down while riding, unless you can get any type of carrier that has a proper lock thingy.&#xA;Use a lid or straps to keep your stuff in the carrier, for that same reason, they jump like mad!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7573" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T16:01:36.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16797" CreationDate="2013-07-25T16:08:18.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All answers given are ok with me, I only wanted to add, Softer grips can make a big difference  and break bar position might be too high/low for you.&#xA;Don't wait too long to see that Doctor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7573" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T16:08:18.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16794" CreationDate="2013-07-25T17:26:11.147" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it sticks out from the width of the car DO NOT carry the bike in the bumper carrier. If necessary, take both wheels out but take no chances, anything wider than the car is a danger to yourself and others, think about motorbikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7573" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2019-10-13T20:24:13.420" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T20:24:13.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="564" CreationDate="2013-07-25T18:28:23.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real important thing is basically don't ride like an idiot and don't go faster than you see to stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically most Police officers aren't going to pull you over on a push bike for speeding and tbh you aren't going to be going a lot faster than the speed limit (unless you are descending like a Vincenzo Nibali or riding far to fast in a low speed limit), they are more likely to pull you over if you are riding dangerously (no lights at night, riding through a crowd, riding the bike drunk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6638" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T18:28:23.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16804" CreationDate="2013-07-25T18:30:39.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have biked from Geneva to Lucerne, which included some sections in the Alps, and others in the foothills. Your experience may vary, since the Austrian and Italian Alps could be rather different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the choice of bikes, I did my route on a $150 folding bike, though I would very strongly advise against this. The main thing I wished for was a proper climbing gear, so make sure you have a small chain ring. That said, it's certainly do-able: sometimes you just have to walk a ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 days seems ambitious to me. I bike similar distances to what you describe, at similar speeds, and am a similar age. The Alps are steep. They wear you out fast. We did some 100km days, but were totalled after them, and needed a day or more of recovery. From experience, I'd plan on making at most 18km/h through the foothills, and perhaps 15km/h or less near the mountains proper. Sure, for the first hour you'll do 25km/h, but keeping that pace is a challenge. I was fine doing 65km days, and probably could have kept up that pace quite easily. So 6 or 7 days would give you more breathing room than 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Actually, after looking at your route, 5 days seems okay. I was going west-east through the Alps, but if you just cut through, and have some flat sections in northern Italy, you could probably manage 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other thoughts: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bring supplies for the steep parts, even if you would normally just stop at stores or restaurants along the way. There are shops up there, but they'll charge you 3-4 times the normal price, and you may have to go far out of your way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be prepared for extreme wind. It's not there every day, but it can get up to 25km/h or 30km/h easily.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider avoiding the bike paths, if there are any. Often these went quite far out of their ways to avoid the main roads, and in some cases (e.g. Lausanne), that meant going up and down steep grades over and over again, where the road was nearly flat. Traffic seemed to be pretty low in the Swiss parts anyhow, so by the end we only used trails that actually followed the roadway. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not sure whether you're German, but the folks in the Alps seem to like credit cards even less than those in Germany proper. Bring cash!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;SUNSCREEN! Not the first thing you think of, but the elevation makes a huge difference. Apply more than once per day. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="2513" LastEditDate="2013-07-25T18:35:47.203" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T18:35:47.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16822" CreationDate="2013-07-25T20:04:56.440" Score="62" ViewCount="199236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm somewhat new to the world of mountain bikes and I'm seeing various terms to describe different bikes. What is the difference between all-mountain, cross country, freeride, and downhill? Are they just marketing words or do they represent actual differences in the bikes (or maybe a bit of both)? Are there any other types of mountain bikes I missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7415" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T19:54:03.577" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T19:54:03.577" Title="What's the difference between All-Mountain, Cross Country, Freeride, Downhill bikes?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="23" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16825" CreationDate="2013-07-25T20:21:59.967" Score="9" ViewCount="844" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, the cycling term &quot;domestique&quot; (referring to a supporting member of a professional cycling team) comes from the French word for &quot;servant&quot;. According to Wikipedia, it was first used in cycling as an insult: &quot;He is unworthy. He is no more than a domestique.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the cycling term &quot;domestique&quot; still pejorative? What are its connotations in modern cycling? Do racers refer to themselves as domestiques, or would they prefer to be called something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T17:47:04.190" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T17:47:04.190" Title="Does the term &quot;domestique&quot; have negative connotations?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16814" CreationDate="2013-07-25T20:51:45.623" Score="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can imagine a compromise between a mountain bike that is light weight and easy to pedal, versus one with that is strong and has lots of suspension travel to tackle rougher terrain you might get a diagram such as the one below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we go from category to category we get heavier bikes that are harder to pedal, but that can handle rougher and rougher terrain, bigger jumps, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diagram also shows overlap between the categories as depending on how the manufacturer set up the bike you can argue it could be considered to belong to one or the other category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Caveat -  I am sure some will take issue with the exact size and overlap of the different categories, but the figure is intended to be illustrative only.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CNTm6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T20:51:45.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16815" CreationDate="2013-07-25T21:00:43.977" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;To an extent, yes it does have negative connotations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The word was first used in cycling as an insult for Maurice Brocco, known as Coco,[4] in 1911. Brocco started six Tours de France between 1908 and 1914, finished none of them, although a stage he won in 1911 caused the coining of domestique. &lt;br /&gt;&#xA;  -- &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Domestique&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Domestique&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In road racing, if you are young and unproven you often get your start as a &quot;domestique&quot; on a team.  You are the cycling equivalent of the chore boy. The job of the domestique is to sacrifice his or herself for the leader and team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one of the stars an your team needs some food, you have slip out of the peloton, and go back to the support cars pick up the food, then work your way back up to and through the peloton to deliver the goods.  Likewise if you are in a situation where either the domestique or the star gets water, the star wins out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the team is worried about a break getting away, it will often fall to the domestique to set the pace and do all the work to close the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the domestique is an expendable asset of the team.  Their final race ranking is of little to no concern, other than to remain in the race so that they can provide their services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, as you prove yourself as a domestique (ability to ride hard and survive) you will be given more opportunities,  eventually working your way up in the team.  If you are a fan of the sport, following the domestiques may give you an idea of who may be the upcoming stars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2013-07-25T21:10:27.920" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T21:10:27.920" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2591" CreationDate="2013-07-26T03:31:22.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another cause for the noisy brakes is the brake pads not being fully tightened. In my experience such noise is more commonly seen in cantilever brakes whose mechanism is well explained by Jay Bazuzi's response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T03:31:22.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16814" CreationDate="2013-07-26T04:40:50.830" Score="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following list contains the basic characteristics and differences for the aforementioned types of MTBs plus 2 types of bikes that you didn't mention. Note that I've tried to summarise and &quot;average&quot; the characteristics of modern MTBs used today by amateurs and pros. So 9 kgs for XC bikes means that you can easily find 8 and 11 kg ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cross country (XC) bikes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 kgs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hardtail (front suspension only) usually 80-100mm front suspension (air)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very steep head tube angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carbon or aluminium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gears: 1x11, 3x10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;29, 27.5, 26 inch wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will allow you do 80km rides across mountains and do incredible ascends. Sometimes these bikes are considered the &quot;road bikes&quot; for the mountain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;photo: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/NIK8KVZ.jpg?1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All mountain (AM) bikes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;13 kgs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;full suspension (air), usually 120-160mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steep seat tube angle (good for pedaling), slack head tube angle (good for downhilling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carbon or aluminium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gears: 1x11, 2x10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26, 27.5, 29 inch wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will allow you do 30km rides on the mountains which will include bug ascents and very nice downhill-like descents. These have been marketed as &quot;do it all&quot; machines. They can actually do it all almost good but nothing very very well. Also marketed as &quot;trail bikes&quot; or &quot;enduro bikes&quot; with some minor differences.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;photo: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/NaK5kkT.jpg?1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Freeride bikes (FR):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;18 kgs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;full suspension (coil), 180mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slack seat tube angle, very low seat, slack head tube angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aluminium only&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gears: 1x7 - 1x10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26 inch wheels only&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;will allow you to hit 2m+ drops to flat, hit burly lines, gap large jumps, descend on uncharted territory. To get to the top you usually push the bike or have someone get you there by car.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;photo: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/jV9nWCk.jpg?1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Downhill bikes (DH):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 kgs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;full suspension (coil or air), 200mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slack seat tube angle, very low seat, very slack head tube angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carbon or aluminium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gears: 1x7 - 1x10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26 inch wheels mainly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;built for going downhill at high speeds. Used for racing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;photo: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/2HshaCp.jpg?1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dirt Jump bikes (DJ):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 kgs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hardtail, 80-100mm or rigid (no suspension)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lowest seat possible, very stiff setup, rear brake only&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steel or aluminium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gears: none&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26 inch wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;built for groomed jumps, pumptracks, skate park riding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;photo: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/jzADYSt.jpg?1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slope style bikes (SS):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 kgs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;full suspension (coil or air), 140-160mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low seat possible, stiff setup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aluminium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gears: none or few (1x7) with lever on frame to allow spining of bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26 inch wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;built for park competitions containing insanelly large jumps, wallrides and stunts. Can be used in 4X racing or dual slalom races.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;photo: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/D5OeZSk.jpg?1&quot; /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2014-07-13T06:52:43.073" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T06:52:43.073" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16815" CreationDate="2013-07-26T09:35:07.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Domestique is only really a term found in (professional) team cycling and in that context it isn't really pejorative, it's descriptive of the role performed in the team by those riders without aspirations to overall honours, but who are there to support their team leaders and specialists. While it stemmed from the French for 'servant' the term has evolved and softened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some stages roles might be reversed, perhaps on a rolling hilly stage the star sprinter without a chance of a stage win that day would turn to playing the domestique, e.g. in last year's &lt;em&gt;Tour de France&lt;/em&gt;, the then reigning World Champion, Mark Cavendish, was seen at the team car stuffing bidons up his jersey and ferrying them back, often this will result in the description &lt;strong&gt;super-domestique&lt;/strong&gt;, recognising the role change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it might be pejorative is use away from the pro peloton. If you're on a club run or a ride with friends and someone asked you to do something that you didn't want to do, &quot;what am I, your domestique?&quot; would be about right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T09:35:07.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16829" CreationDate="2013-07-26T13:14:41.447" Score="1" ViewCount="1843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Mavic Reflex 622 x 13 (700c) wheels which currently hold 25mm tires. Can I use 23mm tires on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T18:58:58.840" Title="Using a 700x23 tire on my wheel (which currently accomodates 700x25)" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-26T13:15:13.150" Score="-2" ViewCount="1387" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time posting here for bikes. I have an old wally world free xr-150. It was my favorite bike as a kid when it was all about fun. It's been sitting around for many years. No real rust or tarnish. I know its not a posh riding bike, however I like it and don't feel like buying a new one. That being said it needs a new chain as far as I can tell, as one of the links are rusted. I won't know much else until I got out and take it for a spin. Without a manual I'm going with experience and dumb luck figuring out what it needs. Anyone have any info as to anything specific I need chain wise? Was just going to buy a multi-speed chain of the correct length for a replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, any immediate things I should upgrade? Like I said as a kid it never presented me with any issues, broken parts, etc. Maybe one of the few non-lemons out there. Just looking forward to keeping it in shape and many more years of use. I know there are a lot of new parts out there and just trying to wrap my head around what I should upgrade it with and why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7579" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T14:30:44.153" Title="Upgrades/Repairs Mongoose XR-150" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-08-11T03:23:20.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16852" CreationDate="2013-07-26T13:19:13.127" Score="-1" ViewCount="500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding an ancient set of Conti Ultra Races and get flats every 100 miles or so. What do you guys think of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1034898_-1_400904__400904#pr-header-50__2528&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vittoria Rubino Pro Slick Road Tire&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Contis were 25mm and I'm thinking of getting the 23mm. I'm reading the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7199/what-are-the-benefits-of-700c23-tires/10513#10513&quot;&gt;previous discussion on the subject&lt;/a&gt; but would appreciate any feedback on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T04:16:02.360" Title="Vittoria Rubino Pro Slick Road Tire" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-07-30T12:57:13.277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16826" CreationDate="2013-07-26T13:24:26.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like it, see &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown (as usual)&lt;/a&gt;.  There's very little difference between 23 and 25 anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T13:24:26.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2013-07-26T13:37:35.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a single speed because I'm lazy. The less mass you take up a hill, the less work you do – at least in theory. The trick is having the best single gearing for the average hills you encounter. The other trick is not being in a hurry when you're on the flat sections. A good medium gearing or medium tall gearing is all I need. When I moved from a hilly town to one that had no hills except for bridges, I put on a bigger front sprocket to tall things up a bit and I was happy again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I do is have two single speeds. One has skinnier tires and is geared taller for higher speeds and the better cooling effect of having more air moving past me on hot summer days. That's my cheap bright red Schwinn Madison. The other bike is my Surly Steamroller which has fatter tires and geared lower and runs a coaster brake for completely silent running at night. I'm grateful that they finally have headlights that are powerful enough to actually see where you're going on a bicycle at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I like my one-speeds because I am so familiar with the single gearing that they have, I always know my acceleration potential at any given speed. This is good information to have when dodging cars and trucks in city traffic where I do all my cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there's also the maintenance thing. When the bike has to be just about perfect before you'll ride it, having a single speed makes life a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's my story and I'm sticking to it. After fifty years or so of bicycling on a daily basis, a guy gets set in his ways.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7580" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T16:31:35.643" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T16:31:35.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16815" CreationDate="2013-07-26T14:27:53.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Domestique by itself is neither a good nor a bad term. It simply refers to riders on a team whose role is not to work for their own race ranking, but to perform the day to day tasks and support that enable the team leader to advance their own race ranking. This may include such things as ferrying food/water from team cars, working to control the pace of the peloton, support a break, even down to giving the team leader their own bike if a mechanical failure happens at a critical point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes it perjorative is the context in which it is used. If someone uses it as a put down, then yes, it's demeaning. If someone simply uses it as a description, then it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Servant is a similar term. Servants were NOT slaves. They are people who serve others for a salary. Many servants both in older times when it was more common and more modern times were/are fiercely loyal to the house they serve. Especially in Europe where it is more common, head butlers and similar for peerage (Lords, Earls, Dukes, etc) were highly respected. If a lord got a reputation for not being good to their servants, it was hard for them to get more. But, you can use servant as a description or as a putdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T14:27:53.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16827" CreationDate="2013-07-26T14:30:44.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, check the brakes, if they are working, take it for a ride and make a list of things you notice.  Even with a rusted link it might still work.  I have a 20 yr old Huffy MTB with the original chain and it still works (although it has other issues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When getting a new chain, you should get a new freewheel (I'm assuming) as well.  They are easy DIY, pop the back wheel off and take into your local shop and tell them &quot;I need a chain, a new one of these, and the tool to remove it&quot;.  I did that same thing for my current bike and it took longer to ring me out.  When re-installing the freewheel, I advise putting some grease on it.  they are self tightening and hopefully the grease will make it easier to come off later.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel truing (our smaller selves loved to inflict pain on bike wheels)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check with the local shop about getting their opinion and a tune up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T14:30:44.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16805" CreationDate="2013-07-26T16:50:34.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;A &quot;decaleur&quot; is a removable handlebar bag mount. You'll still need a (non-removeable) rack for support too though, but for a retro look and larger bag capacity than without a rack, it's a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T16:50:34.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16835" CreationDate="2013-07-26T16:57:52.193" Score="8" ViewCount="7427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced a strange failure of my brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was descending a steep smooth road, using only my front brake (my rear brake was broken; it was an unplanned bail from a route). I tried keeping the speed low, so i could jump off the bike at any moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After going this way for maybe 2 minutes, I stopped briefly to let some car pass (so released the brake for a few seconds). As I continued to descend, I pressed the brake, and surprisingly, its handle went all the way to the handlebar without doing any braking! So I immediately jumped off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't believe at first the bad luck I had, but then I pressed again and again on the brake (not while riding now), and gradually it returned to normal; after 1 minute it would give full braking force again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wonder, is this an expected way a brake would fail while overheating? I heard that it would start to stink really bad before it became dangerous to ride, so I didn't worry about overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model of my brake is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/support/heritage-products/hydraulic-disc-brakes/hfx-9-xc/&quot;&gt;Hayes Nine&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T17:57:16.147" Title="Hydraulic disk brake stops working when hot; back to normal after cooling - is this expected?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16834" CreationDate="2013-07-26T17:09:59.943" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The least you need to do is bleed the brakes to remove trapped air. It's best though if you completelly change the fluids and bleed. You can do that in an LBS, or yourself if you have a bleeding kit and know how to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the behavior you described is that air is trapped in the system and makes things mushy and unpredictable. The fact that after a couple of lever presses it came back to &quot;normal&quot; is because hydraulic brakes are auto adjusting both on the pads end (when pads are worn) and on the lever end (when air is in the system).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air bubbles exist in the system either because a proper bleed was not done in the first place or because the fluids absorbed moisture which vapourated and turned into air as soon as you overheated the fluids. Also note that as soon as the fluids absorb moisture (water) then the boiling point falls even more so having this issue is even easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T17:09:59.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-27T15:23:43.940" Score="3" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently my commuter bike (cannondale quick 5) was stolen, so I decided to get an old road bike off of craigslist - a '91 specialized sirrus triple.  The guy I bought it from had bought it new, used it for about a decade, then hung it up in his garage until this past month. I took it in to REI for a tune-up and some new tires and asked if they could put on tires with a bit more traction, knowing that I'm accustomed to my commuter bike and probably wouldn't do too well with slick tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they put on the new tires (I'm not talking knobby mountain bike, just a little bit of tread - Michelin City tires) they had me sign off that the change in tire size meant the rear wheel would have to not be completely in the dropout - currently it's about halfway in the dropouts and has scant 1/8&quot; clearance from the rear brake assembly; if it was all the way in the dropout it would have no clearance whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this (the rear wheel not being completely in the dropout) ridiculously unsafe?  I've never had to deal with this before, but it seems like this would be ridiculously unsafe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7589" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-07-29T16:15:44.713" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T14:12:16.447" Title="Tire size / rear dropout incompatibility?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-27T20:06:19.103" Score="0" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago, I was looking down checking out my crank while riding and drifted into the LA River Bike Path and ended up crashing bending my front brake caliper.  Can the recessed bolt that holds the brake caliper in place be bent back straight or should I just buy a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7590" LastEditorUserId="5688" LastEditDate="2013-07-28T11:15:49.290" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T11:15:49.290" Title="Caliper bolts after crash: repair or replace?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16838" CreationDate="2013-07-27T20:38:31.997" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My vote is for replacement. It does after all hold on the brake a very important component. Bending the bolt may cause microscopic cracks that could cause the bolt to fail with no warning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-07-27T20:38:31.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-27T21:27:50.073" Score="1" ViewCount="5397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to this website. I am also new to the terms, and names related to bicycle components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bicycle called a Burner SuperCycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to the repair shop twice in the last year because things started breaking down. I am not using my bike in an extreme environment. Just in the street of my city. What I have noticed is, after a while, I start hearing a strange noise when I pedal. And with time it gets worse and worse and now it's just too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple days ago I decided to investigate by putting my bicycle upside-down and pedaling manually. There was no strange noise but the rear hub/cassette was moving up and down in a circular manner on the little bar that goes trough it (I don't know the name, sorry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have a strong feeling this is where the sound is coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do next? Take off the whole wheel? Tighten up something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7591" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T14:08:45.890" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T14:08:45.890" Title="Why does the rear hub (cassette) moves on the axle when I pedal?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2013-07-27T21:55:01.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because I don't like riding fixed downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, because though 10 percent of the time hills are murder &amp;amp; 10 percent of the time I spin out, the other 80 percent of the time the thing just flies!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7592" LastActivityDate="2013-07-27T21:55:01.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16848" CreationDate="2013-07-28T15:39:37.220" Score="7" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute 5 miles each way to work.   I live in a climate where the weather can change from decent to torrential rain and thundering within 5 minutes (i.e. the first mile of my commute).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened on my commute earlier this week and I took shelter in an apartment parking lot that had covered parking.  The &quot;cover&quot; was a sheet of aluminum.  I can't say definitely whether this was a safe place to be during a thunderstorm or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: do you have any solid safety advice on what to do if you are on your bike and a thunderstorm erupts?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7299" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T13:59:35.820" Title="Thunderstorm Safety" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16845" CreationDate="2013-07-28T17:12:47.890" Score="3" ViewCount="4167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an extra 10-speed chain I would like to use with a 9-speed cassette on my mountain bike. Will this combination work ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2512" LastActivityDate="2020-06-19T22:46:31.593" Title="Can a 10-speed chain be used with a 9-speed cassette?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-28T17:34:48.003" Score="9" ViewCount="15357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm around 230lbs. Since I do enjoy biking, I was looking up old school racing bikes on craigslist. Some of the frames are built with &quot;Tange 1&quot; steel which specify weight limits (180lbs). Is it really possible that I might damage the bike if I choose to ride it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For someone my weight or higher, what kind of bike and/or frame should be used? Is there any concern if an aluminum frame is used? Or does all of this depend on the manufacturing quality (eg, Tange 1 instead of Tange 5)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7597" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T18:44:48.297" Title="what type of bike/frame to use when overweight?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16843" CreationDate="2013-07-28T18:26:45.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 10 speed chain is narrower and will work. Not ideal and the shifting might not be as crisp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have an extra chain you can use it, but if purchasing new I would get a 9 speed chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T18:26:45.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16847" CreationDate="2013-07-28T18:38:40.520" Score="0" ViewCount="959" Body="&lt;p&gt;After my $20 floor pump from the hardware store gave out. I bought a rather more expensive one rated to 160 PSI. The pump has a metal nozzle on it, with a Schrader opening on one end and a Presta opening on the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find closing the Presta side of the nozzle requires an extremely large amount of force. It seems like I get a much tighter seal with it, and that I can go to higher pressures as a result. However, because it requires so much force to close I have ended up bending the valve stem every time I use it. Ultimately I've gone back to using the Schrader adaptor I had for the old pump, along with the Schrader side of the nozzle, which is much easier to close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick to closing a purpose-designed Presta nozzle? Is my pump defective somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T21:35:02.557" Title="How can I inflate Presta valve tires using a Presta compatible pump without bending the valve stem?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16846" CreationDate="2013-07-28T18:57:15.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had this problem.  It would take considerable force to bend the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First be sure you have the nut on the Presta stem, and that it is screwed down firmly against the rim (though it shouldn't be wrenched tight).  This will keep the stem from wobbling around in the rim hole, and makes the whole job easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then make sure that the wheel is rotated around to where the stem is easy to reach, and the pump is pre-positioned so you won't have to fight the hose to get the chuck on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With most chucks you press the chuck on, the raise the lever on the chuck, but a few you raise the lever first, install the chuck, then flip the lever down.  Be sure which style you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prepare the chuck for installation, press it on squarely, then, while holding the chuck with one hand raise/lower the lever with the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that on some chucks there is an adjustable collar on the end of the chuck which you can screw in for a tighter fit, out for a less tight fit.  You want the collar (if present) adjusted to allow the chuck to slide on with only mild resistance, then grip firmly when the lever is raised/lowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T18:57:15.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16842" CreationDate="2013-07-28T19:18:25.530" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mainly, pedal like heck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re lightning, if you're the highest thing around then lightning is a concern. If there are buildings, power poles, etc that you have to look up at higher than a 45-degree angle to see the top of then you're pretty safe from a direct strike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re &quot;indirect&quot; strikes, it's best to stay 4-5 feet away from poles, awning supports, etc, and also lay your bike down or lean it somewhere at least a few feet from you. Being near/leaning against the side of a masonry or &quot;frame&quot; building is generally safe, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understand that there is no such thing as &quot;perfect&quot; protection from lightning.  You can be inside a building on an apparently clear day and still be struck (though the odds are vanishingly small).  It's just important to take &quot;prudent&quot; precautions that reduce the risk of lightning injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, in thunderstorms don't forget the risk of hail.  If you cycle any distance in &quot;unstable&quot; weather you should have a helmet (obviously) and at least a durable jacket to protect you from serious injury from hailstones.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T19:18:25.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16846" CreationDate="2013-07-28T21:35:02.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are almost certainly doing something wrong, so why not simply pop back to the shop and get them to show you how they use the pump that they sold you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bending the valve stem is virtually impossible - if you are bending anything it is perhaps the valve body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take care to ensure that after you release the thumb-lever lock (you ARE releasing it, aren't you?) that you remove the head of the pump without wiggling it, as such an action is sure to bend the valve body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T21:35:02.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16853" CreationDate="2013-07-29T02:03:51.257" Score="1" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace the bottom bracket in my Windsor &quot;The Hour&quot; since I'm buying  a new crank set for my bike.  What are the dimensions for the bottom bracket: both shell width and shaft length?  I can take the bottom bracket out to measure it, but I would rather only do it once while installing the new parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2797" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T08:55:39.380" Title="Windsor - The Hour - Bottom Bracket Dimensions" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16828" CreationDate="2013-07-29T04:16:02.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've run Rubino Pros for a few years. They aren't the lightest or fastest tire around, but they last very well and are pretty flat proof for my area (Seattle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T04:16:02.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16850" CreationDate="2013-07-29T08:55:39.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm&lt;/a&gt; it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Sealed Cartridge 103mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to find shell widths for 103mm sealed cartridges only gives 68mm as the only possible combo for 103mm the length. e.g &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it should be &lt;code&gt;68m x 103mm&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T08:55:39.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2013-07-29T10:50:23.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other side of the coin is what to do in the spring.  I'd say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get all the grease off and re-oil/grease everything&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pump tires up and check after a few days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maybe inspect tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look for new rust around cable glands etc. (when regreasing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull seriously hard on brake levers before you need to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a good test ride before you rely on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there's plenty to add to this list, you might even take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/5295/7309&quot;&gt;an old answer about restoring neglected bikes&lt;/a&gt;  for tips, even though you're doing what you can to take care of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T10:50:23.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16856" CreationDate="2013-07-29T12:42:05.810" Score="0" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brought my road bike to Mumbai where the roads are pretty bad (lots of potholes, gravel...), I've been getting a puncture roughly every 2 weeks. The tires are about 6 months old. They are a bit worn out, but people I ask here say it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options to deal with this? Should I line the tire with old tubes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5899" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T12:49:15.953" Title="Road bike getting punctured often on poor roads" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-07-30T12:46:53.363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16855" CreationDate="2013-07-29T12:49:15.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kevlar tyres.  Or at least kevlar liners.  Check the pressure regularly, especially if running on patched tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect sharp debris/litter may be the problem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lining with old tubes doesn't seem like a good idea - they're no stronger than the tube you've got, and add significant bulk affecting how the tube sits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For properly bad roads, I wouldn't ride on road tyres - get something designed for rougher urban use.  All the major tyre manufacturers make something with kevlar, slightly thicker rubber and a bit of grip compared to road tyres.  I've fitted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=65181&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;continental's version&lt;/a&gt; to a mountain bike for city use, and it will take much more sharp stuff than MTB tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T12:49:15.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16867" CreationDate="2013-07-29T12:55:07.770" Score="6" ViewCount="1976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have often seen derailleurs on cheap MTBs to degrade in performance by showing hysteresis. By that I mean that to switch to a certain cog, one needs to shift one cog further and then immediately one back to get the chain to the desired cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause for such degradation of shifting quality. Is this often a tuning problem, or wear, or the derailleur spring getting stuck with dirt and grime?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-07-29T14:01:45.517" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T19:13:53.147" Title="What are the most common causes for hysteresis in the rear derailler?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16857" CreationDate="2013-07-29T13:33:17.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases it will be a combination of several of the factors you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be a tuning problem. In this case normally the gear change will work in one direction but not in the other one. If it is only a tuning problem, it may be fixed quite easily by tuning your derailleur correctly. Also for this type of problem it is characteristic that it can occur in both shifting directions depending on the &quot;direction&quot; of detuning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately especially on cheaper derailleurs tuning may not be the only problem. The second one is friction either in the bearings* of the derailleur or of the derailleur cable in the cable hosing or both. In this case the problem is typically much worse in the direction where the the cable is released by the shifter and the spring does the work. Normally the derailleur should jump to its desired position with one sudden step, but if friction comes into play it may creep more or less slowly to its position which might give the chain not enough momentum to jump to the right cog. As cheaper derailleurs are built with simpler bearings they are more prone to such failure. A maybe slightly too weak spring may worsen the situation here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point that you didn't mention is the wear of the derailleur bearings. The whole device consists of several linked parts that are aligned to each other to certain axes. If the bearings in the links are worn out in a way that there's some clearance, the derailleur may bend a bit, changing the alignment of the derailleur in respect of the frame and the cassette. In this case the chain may run from the derailleur to the cogs in an angle that hampers the shifting process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*As pointed out in the comments there are no real bearings in the links between the parts. Instead the links consist basically of two surfaces that glide on each other. But there is a huge difference in the quality and durability of those surfaces and in how good they can withstand contamination that causes friction and wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-07-29T16:40:24.790" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T16:40:24.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16842" CreationDate="2013-07-29T13:59:35.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the radar weather maps. They can give you a pretty good indication of which specific area is being affected by rain and lightning.  If it's possible with your job, you can leave early/late to avoid storms.  When they forecast storms, they are usually forecasting for quite a large area. Often when they &quot;Get the weather wrong&quot; it's because the storm just happened to travel 10 miles south of you, and you just got lucky that day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T13:59:35.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16857" CreationDate="2013-07-29T14:23:34.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that this was the norm for derailers, pre-indexing.  Indexing wasn't possible with the old style drivetrains because you needed to overshift slightly to force the chain to jump sprockets, especially when shifting to a larger sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What changed was mainly the addition of what I call &quot;ramps&quot; on the sides of the sprockets.  These catch the pins of the chain and lift it up onto the higher sprocket.  Without this feature indexed shifting would be impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, wear of either the chain pins or the &quot;ramps&quot; will cause poor shifting.  Of course, there are also the other possible causes that Benedikt describes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T14:23:34.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16599" CreationDate="2013-07-29T15:59:08.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a 2008 version of the 1.5 bike and the rear wheel took a 15mm cone wrench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that Trek changed this, but I think 15mm is a good bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with @alex; anything other than 13, 15, or 17 would be considered uncommon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7601" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T15:59:08.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16873" CreationDate="2013-07-29T16:02:38.280" Score="4" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Park Tool device to check for stretch on my derailleured bikes - can the same tool be usefully deployed on a 1/8&quot; 'track' chain, does anyone know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, how then to check for wear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T07:17:56.773" Title="when does a 1/8&quot; chain need replacing?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-29T16:10:48.363" Score="12" ViewCount="33240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Won't having disk shaped wheels cause more wind resistance with crosswinds? What are the benefits of having these sort of wheels? &lt;br/&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WMTZh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2006_Cervelo_P3_Carbon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7445" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2019-07-13T18:50:03.087" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T18:50:03.087" Title="Why are the rear wheels of time trial bikes disc shaped rather than having spokes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;racing-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-29T16:44:00.223" Score="1" ViewCount="3710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see them advertised as being good for one or the other. Is there really a difference? Or is it just a marketing gimmick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T22:09:54.047" Title="Is there a difference between mountain and road stems?" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16863" CreationDate="2013-07-29T18:22:04.443" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc wheels have lower drag than spoke wheels.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20121107055149/http://wheelbuilder.com/aerodisc-data.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wheelbuilder aerodynamic data&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20120722111025if_/http://www.acusim.com/papers/AIAA10_2010-1431_MNGodo.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aerodynamics of High Performance Race Bicycle Wheels&lt;/a&gt;.  (One link shows simulated data, the other measured).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these tests run up to yaw angles of 30 degrees.  The argument is typically that at higher yaw angles (closer to side-winds) the rider would choose a spoked wheel instead of a disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc wheels are typically preferred for courses and days that do not see a lot of cross-winds not because of drag, but because they present a large area for the wind to push on, and can lead to unpredictable performance in high-crosswinds.  This is one reason you don't often see disc front wheels in a non-velodrome environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7604" LastEditorUserId="44143" LastEditDate="2019-07-13T09:04:27.023" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T09:04:27.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16864" CreationDate="2013-07-29T18:54:02.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference is strength. There are some road stems that will say they are not recommended for downhill/freeride type riding, but are ok for cyclocross. Road stems will also come in a larger range of angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be sure that when you are looking at stems, you match the clamp of the stem to your steerer tube (1&quot; or 1 1/4&quot; usually) and to the diameter of the bars that you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T18:54:02.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16857" CreationDate="2013-07-29T19:13:53.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the list of things I usually check for when troubleshooting jumping gears:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the chain always goes up/down? In this case usually the adjustment is off. Try adjust the cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the mech hanger bent? Sometimes during a crash you can bend a mech hanger. Most of the times you can bend it back, but there are cases where you need to replace the mech hanger for a new one. Usually they are cheap £5-15. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the shifting very slow? Dirty outer cables and rusty inner can cause the problem with shifting. Replace inner cable and outer cable for new ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the shifter clicking OK? I've seen cheap shifter wearing out and not &quot;holding&quot; clicks properly, so the chain would jump.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the mech cogs (small chainrings) worn out? are they wobbly? Chain can only be placed properly if the cog is not moving sideways. If that is the case, replace the top cog. Also worn out cog can affect the shifting performance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the mech itself not bent or otherwise damaged? There are plenty of ways to destroy the mech.. usually that is beyond repair and you need to get a new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the mech is very-very cheap, it sometimes gets bent while in normal use (not MTB abuse). Only replacement will fix that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! And I'm off to fix my wife's bike gears -)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T19:13:53.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16885" CreationDate="2013-07-29T20:45:36.687" Score="2" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any tables out there that show how long a person can exert themselves at a given heart rate or %LT (assuming adequate fueling)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;events lasting up to(LT = 185): &#xA;&#xA;3 hours: 170+ &#xA;4 hours: 165 &#xA;6 hours: 150 &#xA;??? &#xA;IM: 130? &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7605" LastEditorUserId="7605" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T06:07:09.153" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T15:43:36.620" Title="Exertion time vs heart rate or %LT(Lactate Threshold)?" Tags="&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16844" CreationDate="2013-07-30T00:40:44.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was racing seriously, I got down to 235 lbs, and am now closer to 275lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a Titanium Litespeed, and classic steel frame bikes.  (Have four bikes at the moment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I have cracked my Ti frame (and gotten it welded) and broken some steel frames, it is a very rare thing.  I.e. Over years of riding regularly, I broke an old steel frame.  Replaced it with a similarly old same model frame, and finally just cracked a drop out.  Got that one welded, and moved on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things where weight matter are usually pedals, since you apply a LOT of force to a fairly small piece of medal.  I have broken a couple of seats over the years. I had borrowed my brother in laws Walmart style bike, and I bent the cheap steel seat post (when it was over-extended to make up for small frame size) and I was climbing hard, seated.  But that was an extreme example.  I bought a cheap replacement from a bike store, of greater quality than the cheapo bike deserved and it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T00:40:44.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-30T02:45:14.630" Score="5" ViewCount="5152" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frame Windsor - The Hour&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub Width     - 120mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stock Bottom Bracket Sizing - 68 x 103 mm &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miche Bottom Bracket Sizing  - 68 x 107 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miche Crank Set Requirements  - 68 x 107 mm bottom bracket &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to grab a pair of Miche cranks which call for a 107 mm bottom bracket (most likely the Miche primato).  My bike currently has a 103 mm bottom bracket.  Will the 2mm difference cause issues with my chain line?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Sheldon Brown's site, I read that 107 mm is best for 126 and 130 mm hub spacings.  I've also read that the Miche Primato has adjustable cups for tuning alignment.  Would this be enough to compensate for the extra 2 mm on the drive side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2797" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T09:45:17.923" Title="Expected chainline from 103 mm bottom bracket to 107 mm bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16844" CreationDate="2013-07-30T03:19:47.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old-school racing bikes (I have two) are not as comfortable as old-school MTBs when you resume riding, especially if you have a bit of a gut. The upright riding position that the vintage MTBs offer (or a modern equivalent) is one of those things that can keep you on the bike until riding a road bike becomes more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I resumed riding (as a middle-aged adult), I was fortunate to get this at a local garage sale for $20:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1BSc3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1986 Peugeot Orient Express&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the benefit of hindsight, I can tell you that had I resumed riding on an old-school racing bike, I would have certainly quit. I was way out of shape, and the bent-over position required for riding a road bike would have been so uncomfortable that there is no way I would have persevered. But this Peugeot was just what the doctor ordered, no pun intended. I rode it for about 1,400 miles (about 2,250 km) before upgrading to the old-school road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, YMMV, and you didn't mention your height or your age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, one of my old-school racing bikes has Tange #2 tubes and I am still around 200 lbs. I put about 1,500 miles on that bike, for what it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final thought: you may find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php/248-Clydesdales-Athenas-(200-lb-91-kg)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this subforum&lt;/a&gt; helpful. There are (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/228767-Weight-Loss-Post-Your-Before-and-After-Pics-here!&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;and have been&lt;/a&gt;) many folks in the same boat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T03:19:47.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16862" CreationDate="2013-07-30T07:17:56.773" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 1/8&quot; refers to the width of the rollers in the chain (also the width between the side plates of the links). All bicycle chains have a 1/2&quot; pitch (length of a link) which is ANSI standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore your Park wear checking tool can be used with both 1/8&quot; and 3/32&quot; (derailed) chains as it checks for stretch along the length of the links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All info on wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_chain&quot;&gt;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_chain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4260" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T07:17:56.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16875" CreationDate="2013-07-30T07:46:51.083" Score="17" ViewCount="60008" Body="&lt;p&gt;In trying to change the brake pads on my mountain bike, I managed to get oil on my new pads and empty out all the brake fluid, and consequently also get some oil on the disc. I took the bike to the shop and they are now telling me I need to change the pads and the disc. I can understand the pads, but do I really need to change the disc or is the guy (girl actually) just scamming me. The disc is not soaking in oil, from what I can tell it just has a bit of oil here and there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7609" LastEditorUserId="7609" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T08:10:57.483" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T19:27:51.150" Title="do I need to change my disc if the brake pads got oil on them" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16874" CreationDate="2013-07-30T08:32:54.020" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all you need to tell the LBS (local bike shop) that the disk can be &quot;fixed&quot;. Then you need to find another LBS because they are either amateurs or are simply trying to make you buy stuff that you don't need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to remove the oily disk from the bike and use a bike degreaser or alcohol on it to remove all oil. Rub with a clean dry cloth or kitchen paper and repeat. While finishing the process avoid touching the disk with bare hands on the face where the pads contact it because fingers leave grease as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your pads, these can be &quot;fixed&quot; as well in case they are sintered. You'll clean them using a degreaser or alcohol and slightly grind them (let's say remove ~0.2 mm of surface) with a thin sand paper. This will make sure that the pads are like new. Then you'll do whatever you do when using new pads (bed them in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pads are not sintered but are organic then the above process may not do the work because organic pads can suck some oil inside (like sponges but not that much). I've heard of people boiling the pads in a frying pan with tap water and a bit of dishwasher soap but I don't know whether this will work. If you do that make sure you don't inhale any of the steam and also use an old pan which you'll never ever going to use again for cooking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T08:32:54.020" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16880" CreationDate="2013-07-30T09:50:03.707" Score="11" ViewCount="2157" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are there only 170 and 175mm lengths for the crank arms of MTBs? I would have guessed that touring bikes would benefit from far longer crank arms than those, suitable for mountain riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T15:10:08.880" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T15:28:13.300" Title="Why such a tiny difference in crankarm length?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-30T09:56:45.693" Score="2" ViewCount="17858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m fairly new to mountain biking and I’ve recently removed a quick release wheel and I’m trying to reattach it. However if I tighten it too much it makes a squeak noise around the axle. Also I’ve noticed that I only have one spring and I’m sure I’ve bought it from the shop like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway my question is should the quick release nut be tighten as much as physically possible? And also is it safe &amp;amp; normal for a bike to have only one spring (on the quick release)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7611" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T16:27:33.293" Title="Tightening a quick release wheel and having one spring" Tags="&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16876" CreationDate="2013-07-30T10:13:12.460" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;MTB crank arms usualy come in 165, 170, 175 mm. Some people (usually PROs) can have access to more fine grained lengths (e.g 167.5) or ever smaller sizes such as 160mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons for such &quot;micro-optimization&quot; are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;clearance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today MTBs for trail riding need to have a lot of front and rear suspension and very low bottom brackets. This makes it easier to hit rocks with the pedal and that is not desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that ground clearence problems are in addition being solved with very thin pedals (thin pedals also solve other issues).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, saving 5mm from the cranks and 5mm from the pedals may not seem enough but it can actually reduce the times you hit the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that downhill specific bikes will usually have 165mm cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;proper fit to rider height&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A short rider (with short legs) will pedal more efficiently on a 170mm crank than a 175mm one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus small MTBs usually ship with 170mm and medium ones with 175mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T10:13:12.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16871" CreationDate="2013-07-30T10:35:27.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my stock 103mm BB with a 107mm BB and had no problems with the chainline. I could barely even tell it was different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T10:35:27.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16876" CreationDate="2013-07-30T11:14:15.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some natural limitation to the crank length defined by your body dimensions, which is the height difference between the lowest and the highest possible pedal position for a given leg length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lowest possible position is the one where you just can reach the pedal with your foot at the crank's bottom position (plus some additional height to prevent that you have to stretch your leg to reach the pedal). You can set that height by properly adjusting your saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now comes the important part: If you turn the crank up now to its highest point, the limitation is your knee angle. If it is lower than a certain angle (don't know what's the exact limit, but 90 deg might be already critical), you will have problems to apply a reasonable force to the cranks AND you will get knee problems sooner or later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum crank length is now half of the length between top and bottom position where you can reach the pedal on bottom and have a reasonable knee angle on top position. I would guess (without any figures at hand) that for most people 175mm is fairly close to their maximum crank length while 180mm might already be too long for many of them. You surely will be able to get longer crank arms as well but they might be not on the mass market for the aforementioned reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T15:28:13.300" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T15:28:13.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16890" CreationDate="2013-07-30T11:14:43.193" Score="2" ViewCount="2127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard about Mechanical-hydraulic hybrid brakes but didn't find any examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they exist? If yes, are they comparable with hydraulic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T09:27:56.750" Title="Mechanical-hydraulic hybrid brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16881" CreationDate="2013-07-30T11:45:43.303" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/avid/component/mechanical-disc-brakes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avid&lt;/a&gt; makes a series of mechanically-actuated calipers.  These are paired with a Disc to provide a brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their performance is comparable.  Many people prefer Hydraulic though, as the fluid tends not to compress, which yields a more precise &quot;feel&quot; than a cable-actuated mechanism.  One up side of the mechanical calipers is their reduced maintenance requirements.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7604" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T11:45:43.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16503" CreationDate="2013-07-30T11:47:41.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/5757/alex&quot;&gt;alex&lt;/a&gt;'s answer and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/TIAGRA/ST-4500/SI_0033A_En_v1_m56577569830607073.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt; you should be able to trim both up and down. Assuming you have that or a similar model Tiagra (there are multiple variants and I'm not sure all have a trimming option).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T11:47:41.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16868" CreationDate="2013-07-30T15:38:38.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Source - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ploscompbiol.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pcbi.1000960#pcbi-1000960-g002&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Metabolic Factors Limiting Performance in Marathon Runners&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(While the above paper is aimed at marathon runners, I'm not aware of any reason it can't be applied to other endurance sports such as long-distance cycling.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exercise is fuelled by a combination of fat (plasma free fatty acids plus muscle triglycerides) and carbohydrate (plasma glucose plus muscle glycogen). The proportions used vary depending on the intensity of the exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNB7I.png&quot; alt=&quot;intensity&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exercise at a particular intensity can be maintained until you run out of carbohydrate - &quot;hitting the wall&quot; or &quot;bonking&quot;. Intensity is expressed as a % of VO2max, which can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapesense.com/fitness-exercise/calculators/heart-rate-and-percent-vo2max-conversion-calculator.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;estimated from heart rate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to work out how much carbohydrate you have available, you need to estimate how much glycogen you can store in your leg muscles, how much glycogen you can store in your liver and how much carbohydrate you can take on as food (gels, sports drinks, etc) during exercise. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ploscompbiol.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pcbi.1000960#s4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;methods section&lt;/a&gt; of the paper goes into this in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to apply this practically to cycling you should take measurements of the power you can produce at various intensities (heart rates). If you don't have the equipment to measure power, then measure speed on a flat course and &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecalculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;estimate the power&lt;/a&gt; from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having done all that you should be able to calculate the total energy required for a particular distance at a particular speed and what proportion of that energy will come from carbohydrate. You also have an estimate of how much carbohydrate you have available and that will tell you if you're likely to hit the wall / bonk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T15:38:38.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16147" CreationDate="2013-07-30T15:50:59.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, parts should be compatible between Tiagra, 105, and Ultegra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, the 10-speed rear derailleur should work with 9-speed shifters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Within a given brand/style of rear derailer, all &quot;speed numbers&quot; are generally interchangeable. This applies to all indexable models, basically everything manufactured since the late 1980s. There are a few exceptions. -- Sheldon Brown  (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;6-speed, 7-speed, 8-speed, 9-speed, 10-speed, 11-speed?&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, switching from a triple crankset to a double crankset will be a problem unless you also replace the front shifter with one that is designed to work with a double front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It looks like the Tiagra ST-4400 and ST-4500 are actually compatible with both double and triple front derailleurs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ST-4400: &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/TIAGRA/ST-4400/SI_6CT0C_En_v1_m56577569830607060.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/TIAGRA/ST-4400/SI_6CT0C_En_v1_m56577569830607060.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ST-4500: &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/TIAGRA/ST-4500/SI_6LP0A_En_v1_m56577569830607086.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/TIAGRA/ST-4500/SI_6LP0A_En_v1_m56577569830607086.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently it's been designed so that with two chainrings instead of three, the levers click twice instead of once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T16:21:57.977" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T16:21:57.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16503" CreationDate="2013-07-30T16:35:46.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may depend on whether you have ST-4400 or ST-4500 brifters (both are Tiagra). According to one &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/TIAGRA/ST-4500/SI_0033A_En_v1_m56577569830607073.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ST-4500 manual (SI-0033A)&lt;/a&gt;, you should be able to trim in both directions with a triple front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/TIAGRA/ST-4400/SI_6CT0C_En_v1_m56577569830607060.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ST-4400 manual (SI-6CT0C)&lt;/a&gt; and the other &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/TIAGRA/ST-4500/SI_6LP0A_En_v1_m56577569830607086.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ST-4500 manual (SI-6LP0A)&lt;/a&gt;, trimming with the smaller lever is only available with double front derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For indexing brifters in general, only being able to trim in one direction is common. With double chainrings, this usually isn't a problem, but with triple chainrings, trimming is more important. Unfortunately, there's not really anything you can do if your shifter wasn't designed to allow trimming in both directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T16:35:46.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16864" CreationDate="2013-07-30T21:40:02.447" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether 1&quot; or 1 1/8&quot; stems there is no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Road stems&quot; typically have more shallow rise (between 6 degrees and 20).&#xA;&quot;MTB stems&quot; typically have more steep rise (between 17 degrees and 35).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the materials can be different and you want to choose the correct materials for your application, but most modern threadless systems have identical steerer tube size (1 1/8&quot;) and handlebar clamp size (31.8mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastEditorUserId="6724" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T22:09:54.047" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T22:09:54.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16881" CreationDate="2013-07-31T00:02:32.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;No, these don't exist.&lt;/s&gt; You can get cable-pulled disk brakes and hydraulic disk brakes. Also you get cable-pulled rim-brakes or hydraulic rim brakes Sram S-700 (thanks to @mikes for the pointer) or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.magura.com/us/bicyclecomp/produkte/felgenbremse/hs-33-2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magura variation&lt;/a&gt;: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7NeHl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Magura HS-33&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless by &quot;hybrid&quot; you mean something different. I understand that you are asking if brakes exist where both fluid and cable are used in propelling pads to rim or rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPD&lt;/strong&gt;: If such thing exist, please let me know, I'll be very interested!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPD 2&lt;/strong&gt;: I stand corrected. Turns out these exist. See Kibbee's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastEditorUserId="1896" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T09:27:56.750" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T09:27:56.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16881" CreationDate="2013-07-31T01:09:09.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cxmagazine.com/trp-unveils-hyrd-hybrid-hydraulic-mechanical-hybrid-cyclocross-disc-brakes-nahbs-2013&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the TRP Parabox Hydraulic Disc Brake&lt;/a&gt; is what you're referring to.  Basically it allows you to use your existing mechanical brake levers to control the hydraulic pistons.  So you can use your old brifters, and still have hydraulic braking.  Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cxmagazine.com/trp-parabox-hydraulic-disc-brake-system-for-cyclocross-first-ride&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a review&lt;/a&gt; that explains how they work, as well as provide and idea of the performance characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T01:15:58.833" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T01:15:58.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16863" CreationDate="2013-07-31T05:53:14.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a link here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wing-light.de/CFD/wheels.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wing-light.de/CFD/wheels.htm&lt;/a&gt; but you can also get similar graphs from manufacturer. It shows different amount of drag in different wind angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crosswinds don't necessarily give high drag, obviously it should give lower drag than headwinds. Even when it's directly blowing from the sides, depending on the speed of the bike and the wind, the resultant angle is not 90 degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, here's the interesting part, if you check the graph, at around 20 degree angle the disc actually has negative drag! I reckon to get that kind of angle, you need a higher degree angle (more like crosswinds) when you're moving fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T05:53:14.697" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16907" CreationDate="2013-07-31T10:03:07.430" Score="0" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://screambikes.eu/en/chains-connector-pins/3740-kmc-cl573r-chain-connector.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2.51 euro&lt;/a&gt; for a quick-link (the cheapest)? But this is not so different from just single chain link. Why such prices and not for a dime?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xtTV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="4015" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T11:59:02.900" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T07:26:31.223" Title="Why are master links so expensive?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16945" CreationDate="2013-07-31T10:42:25.247" Score="9" ViewCount="3383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an older second-hand racing bike, which has &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tubular_tires&quot;&gt;tubular tires&lt;/a&gt; mounted. I went to a bike shop and wanted to buy a spare tubular tire, but they told me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wow, such an old bike! No, we don't have tubular tires. No shop has them. They are not used anymore nowadays. Instead, use an inner tube an a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that true? If so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T02:38:09.107" Title="Are tubular tires still used today?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16893" CreationDate="2013-07-31T11:32:03.067" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also got a set of tubular rims with an old vintage racing bike and I've stuck with them. I don't find them to be a hassle, but gluing does take a little technique and practice to be able to do it neatly. I think most people who haven't done it are afraid of the gluing, but if you like to tinker with things its not difficult. With sealant, I rarely have to change tires, so I find myself gluing a new rear tire about once every 2k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find tubular road tires at bike shops and online at places like:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/search/tubular-road-tires&quot;&gt;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/search/tubular-road-tires&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/components/tires.39.html&quot;&gt;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/components/tires.39.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and others I'm sure. What you'll find is there aren't as many sizes and brands as clincher tires, but there is a decent selection. The two tires I'm riding on right now, and the two hanging in my garage have come off of eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4015" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T11:32:03.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-31T19:20:03.757" Score="1" ViewCount="857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 9 speed specialized sport comp road bike.  my chainrings are 50 x 34t and i wanted to possibly change them to a 53 x 39t to increase my speed. it has shimano cassette/components and a truvativ iso flow crank arm. my question is would most 53x39t chainrings match up with my crank? or would it be better just to get a whole new crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7625" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T00:01:34.740" Title="chainrings matching up to crank arm?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16895" CreationDate="2013-07-31T19:33:49.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, you should be fine just to replace the chainrings. Make sure you replace them with Shimano (road) kit that is compatible with your 9-speed setup and you'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that rings designed for a 10-speed setup will strictly speaking be incompatible, since the 10-speed chain is narrower than the 9-speed chain. I have been told that you should be able to get away with this mismatch, although it will be suboptimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note though, I'm not at all sure that this change will make you faster. Sure, riding on the large ring going downhill might give you a little more &quot;oomph&quot; (5% tops) but would you likely lose that advantage because climbing would be that much harder? And how much time do you spend in top gear anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean obviously the wisdom of this change is entirely your call, but if it were me I'd think hard before I'd part with my cash on this particular upgrade. For hard numbers as regards the gear ratios of what you have and what you're thinking of buying, check out Sheldon's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gear Calculator&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T20:08:14.810" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T20:08:14.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-31T20:02:02.043" Score="19" ViewCount="19479" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the risk of sounding like a bumpkin, why do I see some bikes sold without pedals or at least pictured without pedals? Is there some kind of benefit to buying pedals separately? Do some people take their pedals off the bike when not in use, like they might take off their wheels or seat post?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7415" LastActivityDate="2020-05-29T13:01:08.607" Title="Why are some bikes sold without pedals?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16897" CreationDate="2013-07-31T20:19:04.617" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Higher-end bikes are expected to be used with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_pedal#Clipless_pedals&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;clipless pedals&lt;/a&gt;. However, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9203/1442&quot;&gt;several different standards&lt;/a&gt; for these pedals, and all of which have a different type of cleat that fits in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cyclists tend to stick with one of these standards across all of their bikes, so they don't have to have multiple sets of shoes. Thus higher-end bicycles typically are sold without pedals so that the customer can select the style of pedal that matches their existing shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T20:19:04.617" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16897" CreationDate="2013-07-31T20:50:52.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why do I see some bikes sold without pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because most of the high end bikes are sold without pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there some kind of benefit to buying pedals separately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedals are a totally personal matter. A rider is expected to buy pedals for the new bike or use pedals from an older bike. Especially in the MTB world this is more prevalent where the rider will either be riding clipless or flat pedals and there are tons of variations for each of the two types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do some people take their pedals off the bike when not in use, like they might take off their wheels or seat post?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Never.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T20:50:52.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16844" CreationDate="2013-07-31T23:51:14.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about your weight. I've ridden an off-the-rack aluminum step-through (Electra Townie, specifically) and a custom steel tourer (also a step-through) and both have served me well. (Step-through frames are not as intrinsically strong as diamond frames; I once read a cycling how-to book that utterly dismissed step-throughs on that sole basis. Whatevs. When that author rides to work in a dress on his diamond-frame bike, he can criticize my step-throughs.) I can't speak to carbon fiber or titanium or exotic frame materials like bamboo, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I concur that you'll be fine. The only thing I'd warn you about based on my own experience is tightening your seatpost clamp; I've had seatposts decide to lower themselves, particularly after bumpy bits of trail. Do also remember to loosen the clamp and move the seatpost every once in a while, so they don't end up forever stuck in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potential bonus: I have never, not even &lt;em&gt;once&lt;/em&gt;, been street-hassled over my weight while on a bike. (It's happened while I was a pedestrian, many a time.) I cannot entirely explain this -- it may partly be my penchant for interesting-looking and extremely purple bikes -- but I'm not complaining!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T23:51:14.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16895" CreationDate="2013-08-01T00:01:34.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to check if the chainrings have the same Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD). I think compact cranks have 110 mm BCD and normal one usually 130 mm BCD. See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd&lt;/a&gt; to see BCD in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T00:01:34.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16906" CreationDate="2013-08-01T02:14:26.420" Score="2" ViewCount="3331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am replacing my smallest cassette cog for the 3rd time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/shimano-hyperglide-first-position-sprocket-cog-801.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Harris Cyclery's Aluminum Cog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crupibmxracing.com/Sub_products/Cogs_Freewheels/cogs_freewheels_product_001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crupi's Chromoly Cog&lt;/a&gt; is about 3 times as expensive. Is that still worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone comment towards how much Chromoly increases the cog durability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7629" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T03:47:37.983" Title="Best Cassette Cog Material" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2013-08-01T02:32:37.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A factor in gauging increasing speeds that I have not seen in this argument is road surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially back in the 30's, 40's and 50's a lot of the roads the Td'F was raced on were paved in gravel or cobble stone roads. Think about that a minute. How much affect on speed does road conditions have and how much of that affect completely neutralizes any technology improvements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Race your new carbon fiber bike with 23 mm wide tires on a gravel road in a peloton and see what that does to your speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not smart enough to know the answer but I imagine if you were to run the Td'F almost completely on gravel roads the average speed would drop quite a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just do not see how you can  compare a race from 1933 to 2013 given the difference road surfaces and say that one is faster than the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7630" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T02:32:37.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16893" CreationDate="2013-08-01T03:11:37.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tubular tires are very common in cyclecross; their construction and the way they mount to the rim make it possible to run a lower tire pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T03:11:37.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16868" CreationDate="2013-08-01T03:32:11.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &quot;no&quot;, there are no charts or tables that can tell you this directly. There is a lot of variability that determines how hard a person can work out for a specific amount of time - a few of the factors include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Genetics Amount of training  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type of training (if you train only for&#xA;long periods, your ability to work hard at a high intensity will be&#xA;low, for example).     &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recent training history (if you've trained a lot,&#xA;you will have accumulated fatigue) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recent stress history &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recent health or sickness &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Current mental state&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a given person at a given point in time, it is possible to determine what you are asking experimentally; for example, a runner can, over time, figure out their speed for different time periods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T03:32:11.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16902" CreationDate="2013-08-01T03:47:37.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key property is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardness&quot;&gt;hardness&lt;/a&gt;. For uniform materials (like cogs), hardness directly affects wear resistance. The harder the metal the longer it will last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some digging around wikipedia suggests that typical Brinell hardness values are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pure aluminium 15HB, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://asm.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=MA6061t6&quot;&gt;6061-T6 aluminium (heat treated) 95 HB&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinell_scale&quot;&gt;mild steel 120HB&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cromoly&quot;&gt;4130 CroMo steel 183-217 HB&lt;/a&gt; (90-96 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardness_comparison&quot;&gt;Rockwell&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems likely that most aluminium cogs will be 6061 or closely related alloys, so you're looking at the steel being about twice as hard as the aluminium ones. So it should last about twice as long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since people generally replace the entire cassette because the smallest cog is worn, by using an aftermarket one you're prolonging the life of the rest of the cassette by only changing it when the second smallest cog is worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for all the links, I couldn't find a single page with all the info on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T03:47:37.983" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16892" CreationDate="2013-08-01T07:26:31.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to price a product - Cost Plus or Value Add. To survive, Cost+ must be less than VA or you can only sell your product for less than it costs to make. If C+ is less than VA, you an sell at any price point between them. Too close to VA, you encourage competition, to close to C+, you forgo profit. Something like a master link, I can't imagine someone thinking &quot;I know, I make master links, sell the 10% cheaper and get rich&quot; - the market is too small, and too brand loyal....... So the only competition to master links is not using one...... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't use a Master link, you need a special tool (chain breaker), and skills to use it. The tool is about 10x the price of a master link - so you could buy the tool and not have to buy a master link, or you could just buy the master link - 10 times if needed. Most of us buy a hand full of master links and just use them as needed till gone, the $25 price tag is forgotten a long before the next $25 top up is needed, but if we run out, that $25 is well remembered reassembling a chain with a tool - as money very well spent...... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own a tool, and would not be without it, but always use a master link......... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T07:26:31.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13389" CreationDate="2013-08-01T15:47:12.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dual Shocks like Revo hold positive and negative Air pressure. It doesn't matter how you store it. There is far more pressure on the valves if you sit on it.&#xA;Shocks are designed to withstand crazy forces. But it a good idea to wait a couple of minutes after turning it the right way so the oil can go back. There is not much oil in it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7637" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T15:47:12.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-01T21:06:56.400" Score="7" ViewCount="4319" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought a Falcon Interceptor bike with Shimano gears - whatever that means.&#xA;I've had bikes in the past but only those with one set of gears for the rear wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the need for front and rear gears? What should I be doing with them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the front gears for? What should I be considering when selecting front gears and rear gears? Are they (front and rear gears) interdependent or independent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7640" LastEditorUserId="7116" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T14:21:47.643" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T04:11:07.407" Title="How should I select front and rear gears?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16912" CreationDate="2013-08-01T21:57:18.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having more than one chainring (one of the front gears) expands the total gearing range available to you. Having multiple chainrings gives you a higher high gear for cruising at high speed as well as a lower low gear for spinning up hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in the number of teeth between chainrings is much larger than the difference between sprockets in the rear. You can think of chainrings as being for major adjustments and sprockets for minor adjustments. You don't need to change gears in front nearly as often as in back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest gear changing strategy is to adjust the rear gears as needed and then change the front gears whenever you start to cross-chain. &lt;strong&gt;Cross-chaining&lt;/strong&gt; is using the big chainring with a big sprocket or the small chainring with a small sprocket. It accelerates drivetrain wear and sometimes produces noise and grinding feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6yoC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6yoC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-09-05T04:11:07.407" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T04:11:07.407" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16912" CreationDate="2013-08-01T22:56:41.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My standard approach, and the approach I'd recommend for starting, is to use the front derailer to select a &quot;range&quot; -- big ring for flat road with no headwind, middle ring for slightly more challenging conditions (or riding in traffic), and small ring for serious uphill climbs.  Then adjust the rear to select a comfortable gear within that range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you're really unsure, just select the middle ring in front and only shift the front up/down if you notice that you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you gain more skill you'll notice that you can often, say, shift up in the front and down in the rear (or vice-versa) to achieve an &quot;in-between&quot; gear between two rear-only choices.  But with modern bikes with 20+ speeds total this is not as important a &quot;feature&quot; as it was on old 15-speed bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T22:56:41.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17007" CreationDate="2013-08-01T23:03:03.277" Score="1" ViewCount="2896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5 speed freewheel that I need to take of from hub, but the standard freewheel tool that I do have does not fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the freewheel following text is engraved:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UC SHIMANO SIS&#xA;MF Z015 China&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that tool would need to have 12 splines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YyMqE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T19:01:26.290" Title="What tool do I need to disassemble this 5 speed freewheel" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14964" CreationDate="2013-08-02T00:41:13.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find replacement parts on Ebay...mostly (some ridiculous prices for items).  The bottom bracket is the easiest to fix by buying a Phil Wood outboard press fit bottom bracket&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://philwood.com/store/page40.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://philwood.com/store/page40.html&lt;/a&gt; . &#xA;It is part BBCGN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires and wheels are easy since you can still get 26 inch rims and tires.  Tires have greatly improved over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can update the steering column using and adapter (lots of options) that will allow you to use a modern stem and handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can still buy cantilever brakes by Avid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7643" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T00:41:13.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2013-08-02T03:22:19.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just some notes on spotting cracks in metal frames:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for cracks in the the paint. These can be quite small even ~5mm long for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the stress points of the weld - that is usually just at the edge of the weld bead where the metal is most thin. Bottom brackets take the most stress of the bicycle but rarely fail because they are the most supported. Dropouts are most common areas of failure over time in my experience. Most crashes are from the front and will show up in the fork or where the head tube meets the down tube. Those are the spots to look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium can snap suddenly. I've had this happen on handlebars. Usually steel will bend before it breaks and is much safer in that capacity. People who speak about carbon being durable are either fanboys or salespeople. Everyone knows carbon can break dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front dropouts, fork crown and handlebars are really the ultimate safety check spots to watch. failures there can kill. Rear dropouts breaking will be bad but not super dangerous usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fancy lightweight road bikes are the most susceptible. Frame failure on a steel commuter bike usually happens long after the bike has been junked for other reasons. If you are really worried about frame failure watch that front end, don't use aluminium or carbon and you will be fine riding even ancient bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes slightly large or heavy individuals &gt;200lbs will have more issues with frame fatigue than the rest of us as most bikes are designed for smaller riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7645" LastEditorUserId="7645" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T05:51:52.207" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T05:51:52.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16320" CreationDate="2013-08-02T03:31:24.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add a spacer and re-dish. Or move some spacers from the non drive side over the the drive side (if they exist) if you don't want to open up the frame (that will require opening up the hub likely). 1mm is not a big deal. You will also have to fiddle with the limits on your derailleur and adjust shifting accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or get a different cogset with something smaller like 11. There are lots of options for cogsets... unless you are being really perticular about the groupo. I don't know Campy stuff that well but on Shimano the smallest cog is always seperate. You could simply swap that... the jumb might reduce shifting performance but you'll get more function than you currently have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last option (maybe should be first) is simply to move the wheel up or down if it has dropouts that accomodate that. You'd have to adjust brake pads if you did that but that would be the simplest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7645" LastEditorUserId="7645" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T03:36:39.453" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T03:36:39.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14869" CreationDate="2013-08-02T03:45:33.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just try chasing the threads with the normal taps (remember the left side is reverse threaded) then try the pedals. Sometimes just chasing and cleaning will be enough, and what have you got to lose if the threads are already damaged. Some pedals have a longer section of thread than others, certain pedals may work better or contact the intact threads better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise there are insert kits that cut a larger diameter hole then insert a brass threaded part that has normal pitch threads on the inside. These kits are expensive and may only be made for aluminium cranks so check that out first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7645" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T03:45:33.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16874" CreationDate="2013-08-02T06:28:25.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to the top answer - brake cleaner (sold by bike shops and car service places) is the ideal product for cleaning your brakes - just spray it on liberally and let it drip off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T06:28:25.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16418" CreationDate="2013-08-02T06:34:31.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a full answer, but I can fill in one small blank for you - in the CS-HG30-8I, the HG refers to Hyper Glide - this is Shimano's name for multi-speed sprockets that are designed to allow smooth gear shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T06:34:31.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16542" CreationDate="2013-08-02T06:42:53.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you suggested, the cable may be at fault.  I change my gear cables once or twice a year to keep shifting smooth and free. If the cable/cable housing are old and worn they could be offering resistance.  If that resistance is too high the springs in the derailleur may not be strong enough to pull the cable through.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try removing the cable and housing, then make sure the derailleur and shifter are moving freely before fitting the new cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then replace the cable and housing (these are cheap to buy online, but you do need a pair of housing cutters to cut the cable housing - think mine cost be about £15).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T06:42:53.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16928" CreationDate="2013-08-02T08:09:04.060" Score="5" ViewCount="2909" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every suspension frame has the the following two parameters: shock travel and rear axle travel at maximum shock compression. I have a lot of questions, regarding those two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are they properly called?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They seem related, however for the same shock travel the rear travel can differ. I would intuitively guess that long rear travel for short shock travel would be best. However, this is not the case (I saw an expensive frame with less rear travel than a cheap frame). So what shock and rear travel would I want for &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16814/whats-the-difference-between-all-mountain-cross-country-freeride-downhill-bi&quot;&gt;different types of mountain riding&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T09:44:14.420" Title="What is the significance of rear travel of a frame?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16927" CreationDate="2013-08-02T09:13:02.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are they properly called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear wheel travel (e.g 180mm) and shock travel (e.g 3 inches [76.2mm]).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They seem related&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically they are not. One could design a pivot system which would give 180mm of rear wheel travel with a 18mm shock travel. This would not work correctly though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ratio between the wheel travel and the shock travel is called the suspension leverage ratio. A 180 to 76.2 setup gives us a leverage ratio of ~2.36 to 1. Some companies (e.g &lt;a href=&quot;http://foesracing.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://foesracing.com/&lt;/a&gt;) claim that a lower leverage ratio (e.g 2:1) has significant advantages for downhill racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So what shock and rear travel would I want for different types of mountain riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll only choose the rear wheen travel based on what you want to do. For example if you want to do downhill racing then 203mm is the norm. Whichever brand and frame you choose will come with a rear shock installed which has very specific size specifications, e.g 9.5x3 (that is eye to eye and shock travel in inches) and even if you wanted to change the rear shock you'd have to go with those specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T09:44:14.420" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T09:44:14.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-02T12:18:45.023" Score="0" ViewCount="1660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older Raleigh frame that I converted to a fixed gear and the bottom bracket cup on the drive side has been painted over a few times and I can't get it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the type of cup (the one on the top left):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jz4hx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried brute force (lost some skin on my knuckles) and it didn't even budge. Does anybody have any tips to get it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7634" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T13:28:27.733" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T13:28:27.733" Title="Can't get the drive side bottom bracket cup out" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16929" CreationDate="2013-08-02T12:37:28.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drive side on most bottom brackets is reverse threaded. That means you have to turn it clockwise to loosen it.  If you don't care about destroying it, and are just going to replace it anyway, you can try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IGv4WgYWCU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this trick&lt;/a&gt; that I found, which seems like it would allow you to get a lot more leverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T12:37:28.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16932" CreationDate="2013-08-02T16:10:08.123" Score="2" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into buying some bike shorts and wanted to know what was economical and yet still better than normal gym shorts (which I'm using now for about 17 or 34 miles per day). Walmart has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schwinn-Men-s-Mountain-Bike-Shorts-Large/16539942&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike shorts for $30&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm not sure what the metal eyelets are for. Do they serve a purpose or is it simply for 'looks'? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7651" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T21:11:36.513" Title="Bike Shorts and Metal Eyelets" Tags="&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16931" CreationDate="2013-08-02T16:39:15.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the eyelets are there to allow water to drain out of the pockets. There's probably no practical need for them unless you ride in torrential rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer may include them to give an impression that the shorts will make you prepared for &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; possible conditions, or they may be trying to mimic the style of board shorts (as suggested in a few of the comments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T21:11:36.513" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T21:11:36.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16931" CreationDate="2013-08-02T16:41:10.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The eyelets look like they are just for show. I can't really think of any reason to have them except for styling as you wouldn't be hanging anything off your shorts while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T16:41:10.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16935" CreationDate="2013-08-02T19:42:07.080" Score="0" ViewCount="8537" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current cassette is a 105 5600 12-27 the front is a 105 5600 53/39. I want to go compact so will the Shimano 105 5600 rear derailleur support the 105 5700 11-28 cassette? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7657" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T20:22:43.140" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T21:00:25.507" Title="Shimano 105 5600 derailleur compatability with 105 5700 11-28 casette" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16934" CreationDate="2013-08-02T19:59:23.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the 5600 and 5700 cassettes contained the same number of gears, the two cassettes will be interchangeable. They're both 10-speed, so you'll be fine. You'd have had problems going from a 9- to 10-speed, or going from a 10- to 11-speed. The reason in each case would be because of chain width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;update - as @jimirings points out, the RD-5600 is spec'd to only support cogs with up to 27 teeth, so it is possible there may be problems, although I'd have thought it unlikely. (In fact I too am riding a &quot;28&quot; cassette with a &quot;27&quot; derailleur and have not seen any ill effects.) If you're really concerned about this, possible workarounds would be using a different variant of the CS-5700, or upgrading to an RD-5700. If you're willing to spend to upgrade your crankset, the additional cost of a rear derailleur is quite small.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, if you're wanting to go compact, why are you changing to rear mech? I mean, its no problem if you want to do this, just as long as you realise you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To go compact, you can just replace your current crankset with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/road/105_5700/product.-code-FC-5750-S.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FC-5750&lt;/a&gt;, or even with an FC-5650 if you can find one. Try looking on eBay, you may find a bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T21:00:25.507" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T21:00:25.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16938" CreationDate="2013-08-02T20:13:51.253" Score="1" ViewCount="1291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last evening I installed new tires on my bicycle. The front wheel now wobbles side to side. I notice a small movement about 1-2 mm near the hub/axle cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked to see if the skewer is all the way set in the fork brackets, also checked that skewer is tightened firmly. The wheel is properly aligned in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading this post (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6115/how-do-i-know-if-my-cone-cap-bearings-need-to-be-adjusted/6116#6116&quot;&gt;How do I know if my cone/cap/bearings need to be adjusted?&lt;/a&gt;), I reckon that my wheel's bearings may need to be adjusted/replaced; I recently had my wheels trued at an LBS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was no wobble before I changed the tire. Is it possible that I could have damaged the bearings/cones while putting the wheel back? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inputs on how to avoid this next time are welcome; as I will be changing to wider tires during the winter commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T20:52:50.310" Title="Could I have damaged the bearings/cone when replacing a tire? Front wheel wobbles side to side" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16934" CreationDate="2013-08-02T20:22:18.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/105/SI_5VN0B_001/SI-5VN0B-001-ENG_v1_m56577569830683908.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;instructions for that derailleur&lt;/a&gt;, the maximum sprocket size is 27 teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that one tooth won't make it completely inoperable, but it could. The derailleur might simply not have the range of motion to shift onto a sprocket that large. However, I'd bet that it's more likely that shifting just wouldn't be ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, the change from an 12-27 cassette to an 11-28 isn't going to be huge. I personally wouldn't think it was worth the money unless the existing cassette was in need of replacement. And as PeteH mentions, the crankset is all you need to change in order to go compact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T20:22:18.640" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16936" CreationDate="2013-08-02T20:52:50.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any time you change your tire it's a good opportunity to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6115/how-do-i-know-if-my-cone-cap-bearings-need-to-be-adjusted/6116#6116&quot;&gt;check the condition of your cones and bearings&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sometimes happens is that the cones or retention nuts are starting to loosen, but the compression of the mounting nuts or quick release skewer holds everything together tight enough that you don't notice. After changing the tire, you may install it with less tension on the mounting nuts or skewer, and this allows the slack in the system to be noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to fix with a set of cone wrenches, or a regular combination wrench. An advantage to specialized cone wrenches is that they are normally thin enough to tighten or loosen the cones while the wheel is still on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely you damaged the cones or bearings while changing the tire, but you can destroy the entire hub very quickly if you ride on a hub with loose cones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T20:52:50.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9003" CreationDate="2013-08-03T02:12:04.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/08864&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bontrager Trip 3&lt;/a&gt; is now offered as an inexpensive, rear-wheel-sensor computer with cadence. Mine seems to do everything you'd want it to (measure speed and cadence, not catch fire.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7660" LastActivityDate="2013-08-03T02:12:04.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-03T08:09:12.803" Score="-1" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;RE: Disabled Vet, out of condition and trying to buy a bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started biking back in 1985 and have been out of biking almost 20 years. I was fairly savvy on the equipment of the day. It's changed quite a bit. This is the question I put to BikesDirect:&#xA;I need some help picking a bike. I began serious biking in 1984-85 and became very serious &quot;touring bike&quot; rider. I last owned a Trek and for various reasons I have not biked since that time.&#xA;I always had problems with pinch-flats but MTB bikes of the time simply weren't made for distance riding. Now days I have put on weight 6'2&quot; 255-270 lbs. From my reading I've decided a Hardtail 29er&#xA;might best suit me. Something I can put a rather tight nob tubeless kevlar tire with a large footprint and 120TPI or higher. I thought only front fork suspension with my weight. Perhaps 30-spd with heavy duty&#xA;derailleur and hvy duty crankset. The new very good hydraulic brakes seemed ideal. The area where I am ignorant is in frames . . . It seems AL remains the best choice (cost-effective) among materials but there are so many types or configurations with different types of buttressing joints --- Please help with what ya'll think are the top choices and if you agree with my choice of a &quot;29er Hardtail&quot; as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of spending $500 - $700 but would go for $1000 if the ideal bike stood out.  Also as a closing thought, I became attached to toe-clips and wonder what the current thought on their use is Their Answer:Are you going to be trail riding or pavement riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can have just one bike, make it a Motobecane Elite Sport/Trail/Adventure Dual Sport model...It's the perfect choice for the rider who wants a bike that’s fast on the road, capable of spirited off-road excursions, and ready for everything in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/elite_adventure_x5.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/elite_adventure_x5.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;So, what do you think of this equipment choice and how does it compare to the bike I found on BikeShopWarehouse for $299.00? Please take a look and offer your advice and criticism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bill Huckabee&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Specifications:&#xA;Main Frame: Aluminum alloy 6061&#xA;Fork: 700C Suspension fork, Suntour SF11-M3010AL&#xA;Crank Set: Suntour CW9-XCC 28/38/48T&#xA;Bottom Bracket: Suntour BB10-XCT, Sealed Cartridge Unit&#xA;Pedals: MTB 9/16in&#xA;Front Derailleurs: Shimano FD-TX51M6 Top pull&#xA;Rear Derailleurs: Shimano Atlus RDM310DL Black&#xA;Shifters: Shimano ST-EF51 21-SP Black (21 gears total)&#xA;Free Wheel / Casssette: CHJ 13-32T 7 speed&#xA;Chain: KMC Z-51&#xA;Front / Rear Hubs: Formula DC19/25 Aluminum Alloy Black with Quick Release&#xA;Spokes: Stainless Steel&#xA;Rims: 32H DA17 Double Wall, Aluminum Alloy, 700c Black anodized&#xA;Tires: Kenda Kross Plus 700x42c&#xA;Brake Set: CS V-Brakes Aluminum Alloy silver&#xA;Brake Levers: Shimano ST-EF51 21-SP Black&#xA;Handlebars: Flat Bar w/ 6 degree rise&#xA;Tape / Grip: WTB Dual Comfort Density&#xA;Stem: 1.125in Threadless Aluminum&#xA;Saddle: WTB Speed V Sport SE&#xA;Seat Post: 300mm, Black&#xA;Seat Clamp: QR Aluminum Alloy Black Finish, 31.8mm&#xA;Colors: Screamin' Yellow, Sterling Silver&#xA;Sizes: SM(15.5in), MED(17.5in), LG(19in), XL(21in), XXL(23in)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7661" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-08-05T16:14:37.620" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T16:14:37.620" Title="What is the right (best) bike for me?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-08-05T16:13:54.663" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16940" CreationDate="2013-08-03T11:36:48.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the pinch flats all you really need is sufficient tire pressure.  The first thing you should buy is not a bike but a good floor pump with a built-in pressure gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then keep your tires inflated to a &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; PSI of about 2500 divided by the tire width in MM.  (Eg, 90 PSI for 28mm tires -- I actually keep my 35mm tires at 100 PSI.)  If the tire's sidewall max PSI rating is much below that number, buy a different tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the bike, buy (or borrow) a used one, for starters (perhaps an old unsuspended discount store &quot;mountain bike&quot;), then you can trade up when you're more familiar with what you really want to do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For on the road a (steel frame) touring bike is still your best bet, if you can find one -- they're made for the weight and made for the road.  Aluminum is maybe 5 pounds lighter (big deal!), but much more fragile (and of course carbon is a complete non-starter).  For the road you don't need/want suspension at all, or if you have it it should have a lock-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Out of your price range, no doubt, but have a peek at the Surly line, just for grins.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires should definitely be Kevlar &lt;em&gt;belted&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; kevlar &lt;em&gt;bead&lt;/em&gt;) and reasonably slick for road use.  I'm not sure I see the point in tubeless, though, as it seriously limits your choices.  At your weight hydraulic brakes might be worth considering, but are not a necessity (on the road) unless you'll be doing long downhills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toe clips are a purely personal thing.  I had toe clips for years but graduated to &quot;clipless&quot; (a strange misnomer) about 15 years ago, and I'm quite satisfied with those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-03T11:36:48.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16940" CreationDate="2013-08-03T17:01:12.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a thought, but maybe a recumbent would suit you better to get back into cycling. I'm thinking this strictly from not being on a bicycle saddle for a long time and your weight. If your intent is to get back into physical condition for biking and losing excess weight at the same time, perching on a bicycle saddle for a couple of hours would likely be &quot;painful&quot; for a lengthy period of time. The chair like seat on a recumbent would be far more comfortable for a person of your stature to get back into shape. A recumbent is a different type of bike than you're used to, so you may want to try one out to see if you like the feel of this type of bike. When you drop 50 pounds or so, a regular bike of your choice with a saddle should be much more tolerable if you're not so heavy. Bike saddles can be difficult to be made comfortable to ride longer distances for even people of normal weight. If it hurts to ride very far, then you'll soon find reasons not to ride! Just my thoughts to possibly offer a different possibility to getting back in the saddle again after many years. And by the way..thanks very much for your service to our country! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-08-03T17:01:12.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16863" CreationDate="2013-08-03T18:10:43.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The benefit of a disc wheel is that you can ride faster than with a spoked wheel, on flat and rolling roads and at steady speeds.  Once hills (gravity and lower speeds) or changes of pace, come into the mix the case for spoked wheels becomes stronger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastActivityDate="2013-08-03T18:10:43.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16893" CreationDate="2013-08-03T18:31:25.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tubular tyres are still popular with racers and many others. It is most certainly not true to say that no shop has them or that they are not used these days. One of their most overlooked advantages is that carbon wheels for tubs are cheaper than their equivalents for clinchers.  Personally, I love riding tubulars and only use clinchers on my indoor training bicycle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-10-25T05:17:40.143" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T05:17:40.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16893" CreationDate="2013-08-03T18:38:41.430" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I alternated tubulars and clinchers (different wheelsets) on my commuter bike for over a year and it was clear that I had fewer punctures with tubulars.  In fact, I have so few punctures that I have to reglue tires after a year or so since the glue dries up.  YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when a tubular does flat, you almost never get a catastrophic deflation (bang), you get slow leaks. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you're careful you can ride on a flat.  I finished the last mile (uphill) of a race on a flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they are more comfortable, especially when cornering because of the suppleness of the side walls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can get a sub 1500 gram wheelset for well under $500 (Campy Record and Mavic Reflex).  Try that with clinchers.  Tubular wheelsets are generally much lighter than clinchers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you do get a slow leak, tufo or stan's tire sealant will almost certainly fix it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now all of my bikes run tubulars.  For my commuter bike I use Tufos which last forever despite the broken glass that you inevitably see on roads. For racing Veloflex are superb.  And as was mentioned tubulars dominate the cyclocross scene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get the hang of gluing, it's not really a big deal.  The main disadvantage in cyclocross is that you need multiple wheelsets to be able to shift tires on short notice due to weather changes.  Dry vs mud, say, requires two completely different treads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, for most places in the US you have little choice but to buy your tubulars off the web since the LBS is unlikely to stock them.  See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldclasscycles.com/tubulars.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.worldclasscycles.com/tubulars.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7663" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-08-04T16:45:49.960" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T16:45:49.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17043" CreationDate="2013-08-03T18:53:23.307" Score="13" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;don't pick a bike if its seat is twisted around backwards. That's a sign that a previous rider found the bike busted.&quot; -&lt;em&gt;(from SamtheBrand's answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16282/how-to-choose-the-right-citi-bike/16284#16284&quot;&gt;How to choose the right Citi Bike?&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please elaborate on this rule please? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it widely known and used?&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this some sort of official or unofficial rule communicated somewhere? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it specific to Citi Bike program or generic to any bike rental/sharing ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;[1] - I have ridden Citibikes almost every weekday for over a month in NYC, and have never observed a twisted-around seat. But I didn't set out to find one so it's not much of an evidence.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7664" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T10:56:02.917" Title="Is there an (un)official rule about twisting back a seat on broken bike for CitiBike or other shared bike programs?" Tags="&lt;sharing-scheme&gt;&lt;citi-bike&gt;&lt;bike-share&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-03T19:00:52.290" Score="0" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;In NYC, some street bike lanes (specifically, one on 8th avenue in midtown) are typically full of walking pedestrians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this legal? (e.g. are the pedestrians doing it actually jaywalking or violating some other law?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is not legal, is there any evidence that NYC enforces this law in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7664" LastEditorUserId="4444" LastEditDate="2013-08-05T05:01:28.850" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T03:56:50.353" Title="Are New York pedestrians allowed to use bike lanes?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ClosedDate="2013-08-06T12:56:05.683" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16948" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-08-04T04:39:12.507" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-08-04T04:39:12.507" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T04:39:12.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16949" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-08-04T04:39:12.507" Score="0" Body="Lefty refers to a front fork with only one prong, on the left side. This design was created by Cannondale." OwnerUserId="7415" LastEditorUserId="7415" LastEditDate="2013-08-04T17:14:23.613" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T17:14:23.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16952" CreationDate="2013-08-04T12:01:34.003" Score="8" ViewCount="2731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently rode through a horrible thorn patch. I came out with 2 flat tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon examination, I found that the tube was punctured in 10+ places. Throw away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire has 30+ small thorns in it. Some thorns go all the way through, others are lodged in the tire without piercing through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I throw away the tire?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can I remove the thorns, and keep using the tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7667" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-08-04T17:19:31.400" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T19:50:37.590" Title="Fix / clean or throw away tire with 30+ thorn punctures?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16950" CreationDate="2013-08-04T13:14:27.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I vote replace it!  Since you road through a thorn patch, I am going to assume you ride off road/trails often.  Off road riding puts a lot of stress on tires, so you could have issues way sooner than later.  It allows too much exposure to your tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smalls pinprick holes can become real problems creating pinch flats or let debris into the tire.  Especially if you ride on rough terrain, gravelly roads or real hot asphalt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being stranded due to flat tire(s) is no fun, especially when tires can be replaced cheap enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T13:14:27.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16950" CreationDate="2013-08-04T13:51:24.317" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you remove all the thorns very carefully you could keep using the tire. Unfortunately this might be some hassle with 30+ thorns and you can not be a 100% sure that you really have removed all of them. Also some may have broken off in a way that you see the remains from neither inside nor outside but the remains may be pushed further inside after some time of usage causing a new flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore my advice would be: If you can afford it you're better off with a new tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to save the money, try to very carefully remove all the thorns you see or feel. Especially on the inside you should check the tire with your fingers if there's something sticking through. Even then you will have to look out for a higher puncture probability that means you should be prepared to deal with it, i.e. carry an extra spare tube and a repair kit if you don't do this already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-08-04T17:45:38.090" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T17:45:38.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16950" CreationDate="2013-08-04T16:34:58.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you'd eventually have more time than it's worth trying to remove the thorns, so just scrap the tire(s) and get new tubes as well. That should save you time repairing the tubes as any missed thorns work their way through the tire carcass. It's bad enough hunting down shards of glass inside a tire, much less small thorns of the numbers you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T16:34:58.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16947" CreationDate="2013-08-04T16:51:19.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the lane you described is marked clearly for bicycle use, then I'd say the pedestrians are clearly in the wrong. There has to be numerous security cameras in the area that should catch these &quot;jaywalkers&quot; if the police ever have a reason to view security footage for some reason. I wonder how the &quot;real&quot; pedestrians on the sidewalk would feel if 5 or 6 dozen cyclists decided to trade the bike lane for the sidewalk for a day!? Bet that would cause a stir AND get the police department attention! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorDisplayName="user4975" LastEditDate="2013-08-07T03:56:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T03:56:50.353" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16950" CreationDate="2013-08-04T18:59:36.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you afford a new tyre without it being a big deal to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't replace the tyre there's a decent chance that you will suffer an additional puncture from a thorn you miss. You'll then have to take time to fix the puncture and, possibly but less likely, fatal damage to the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely you'll lose money by not replacing the tyre, but you may lose time. Which matters more to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6282" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T18:59:36.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16959" CreationDate="2013-08-04T19:34:32.020" Score="3" ViewCount="3065" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my first road bike recently, and I've noticed I can't change into the largest cog/sprocket on the rear derailleur because when I pull the shifter the chain is pushed into the side of the largest sprocket and not over any of the teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I (gently) use my thumb to push the arm (chain guide?) the chain will mount the largest sprocket but as soon as I let go with my thumb it jumps down to the second largest sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing this isn't normal and somehow it hasn't been fitted quite right? Is there anything I can do to fix this or should I just take it back to the shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3398" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T22:53:15.330" Title="Can't change into the largest sprocket on rear derailleur" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16950" CreationDate="2013-08-04T19:50:37.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not leave this tire for another bike (like whatever-junk-left commuter) where you could simply put a tube with sealant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T19:50:37.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16957" CreationDate="2013-08-04T22:53:15.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about any new bike you ever purchase will need a good tune up after the first 100 miles, not unlike a lot of cars or motorcycles. It's perfectly normal for most of the parts, especially parts under tension like brakes and cables, to settle and loosen a bit the first few times you ride the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely that the cable for the rear shifter has loosened a little bit and needs to be tightened, or the limit screw has settled. The shop you bought the bike from should have no problem performing the tune up for you, it's very common practice ( and if they try to charge you for it, hesitate to give them your business, the 100 mile tune-up should be complimentary ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T22:53:15.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-05T03:41:32.127" Score="2" ViewCount="7630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some dia compa ac 500 brakes on an old road bike. While the calipers are installed on the bike, with everything tightened, I can move (rotate) the calipers side to side with my hand. I've already searched online and there seems to be a lot of different suggestions and opinions ranging from using loctite to the idea that the hole in the frame/fork is &quot;compromised&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture for reference (mine are not exactly identical):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rFnXZUx3BwQ/TFH3HR5jIhI/AAAAAAAABpI/_VXBnW0Yhdw/s1600/DSCF0446.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_rFnXZUx3BwQ/TFH3HR5jIhI/AAAAAAAABpI/_VXBnW0Yhdw/s1600/DSCF0446.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calipers are held to the frame/fork with a metal rod with threads, a (capped) nut that gets screwed in in the &quot;front&quot;, and a piece of metal that screws on to rod in the “rear”. Tightening that front nut only seems to add friction between the callipers. So, for example, when I release the brakes, the callipers do not return to their original position. Tightening that piece of metal in the rear seems to make it more difficult for the callipers to move (rotate). I’ve tightened these rear pieces as much as I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea if these brakes have been assembled correctly. One had 2 washers between that front nut and the calipers, the other one didn’t. Are washers even necessary? Regardless, both calipers rotate can be rotated like I described before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this problem normally solved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I meant to describe some negative symptoms. Why is it a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a problem because they get off center as you brake. You get one brake pad rubbing against the rim as you release the brakes. So in other words, they don't retract evenly. Ideally, I would want the brake calipers to be an even, fixed, distance from the rim (not loose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought maybe it was an issue of friction. I disassembled one and greased it. I also put lube on the inside of the cable housing. This didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might also be a problem is the length of the cable housing. In the front, the housing definitely causes the calipers to tend to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be an issue of unequal tension in the spring. I'm reluctant on bending it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7678" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T16:33:31.707" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T17:15:54.510" Title="loose brake calipers" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16969" CreationDate="2013-08-05T05:38:33.620" Score="3" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a continuation to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4400/why-is-it-important-to-have-good-saddles/4401#4401&quot;&gt;Why is it important to have good saddles?&lt;/a&gt; I would like to know: Are there non-expensive saddles that are safe for men's health that you can advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slightly different question, are there saddles that are safe for men with urology problems? For example, this is what I found in the mentioned question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fortunately, there are several types of seats that can help alleviate that pressure and prevent injury. Look for seats with a split saddle, or one with a space in the area that would normally press into the perineum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that there are such saddles, but can you mention any models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7680" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T20:21:11.643" Title="Safe saddles for men's health" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16961" CreationDate="2013-08-05T06:36:51.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No saddles exist which are unsafe for mens' health. What exists are saddles which do not fit particular bodies and, most importantly, misconfigured saddles and bad riding postures which can give a man some health issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T06:36:51.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16976" CreationDate="2013-08-05T07:57:26.910" Score="8" ViewCount="6540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been told that every fork has a &lt;code&gt;maximum rotor size&lt;/code&gt; characteristic. For example, for my $75 Suntour this is listed as 185mm. The explaination that I have been given for this limitation is that any larger rotor will have significant chance of &lt;strong&gt;breaking the forks&lt;/strong&gt;! That is, the braking force will be too high and the brake mount system will shutter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct and precise information or is it just some legal insurance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="7415" LastEditDate="2013-08-05T17:15:16.540" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T08:19:12.493" Title="Disc brake rotor size and forks strength" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-05T07:59:48.043" Score="4" ViewCount="2576" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The SM-RT53 rotor should be used together with resin pads. If it is&#xA;  used with metal pads, the pads will wear out very rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from Shimano BR M-416 disc brake manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know if a rotor is compatible with organic pads prior to purchasing? Is it true that all rotors are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know if a rotor is compatible with sintered pads prior to purchase? Why not every rotor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-09-17T15:12:19.253" LastActivityDate="2017-12-10T04:32:01.073" Title="Disc brake pad and rotor compatibility" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-05T09:55:42.180" Score="0" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had good experience in the past with riding a racing bike with cross-bike outer tube (grip, protection against flats) in the city. So I bought similiar outer tubes again for my new racing bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the outer tube on the front (did not install the rear one yet) touches the brake (body) with it's outer diameter and wont turn. Do I have any reliable and safe options to mount the wheel a bit lower? We would be talking about 2mm or so, I could adjust the brake pads if the wheel sat lower. I tried to use cable ties as istancers, but I don't trust this solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have the same problem with the rear wheel, But I think I have more options there (the part where the axle goes is adjustable in the horizontal, so I could get the wheel a bit away from the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could hand the tubes back to the store, but then I would be stuck with having to spend 70€ there and the tires I got are the best fit to what I want - hence this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="6795" LastEditDate="2013-08-05T22:01:19.357" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T20:39:53.687" Title="Bought slightly too big outer tube - options?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16970" CreationDate="2013-08-05T17:01:41.597" Score="4" ViewCount="13746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to work on endurance in the hopes of one day touring the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Divide_Mountain_Bike_Route&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GDMBR&lt;/a&gt; in a reasonable amount of time and after watching &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridethedividemovie.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ride the Divide&lt;/a&gt;, I noticed a lot of the riders are using aerobars. When I am training, I can ride close to 40 miles on my bike with a Specialized flat bar but I am noticing significant pain in my back, tailbone, wrists and shoulders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are aerobars the answer to my pain problems? My assumption (from purely a comfort viewpoint) is that aerobars allow you to shift your weight occasionally and distribute your weight differently without stopping. If so, is there a certain type of handlebar I should be looking at for a mountain bike? I would prefer an easy to install/uninstall solution because I am not always looking to have these handlebars on. Also, is adding an aerobar the proper solution or am I looking at it wrong? I am questioning bikes at the moment and would be grateful on any tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used any other type of handlebar other than a flat bar, so please include anything that may seem incredibly obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Note: I looked at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/4111/7116&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; answer but those look incredibly uncomfortable for long distances and seem pointless for what I am doing.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Specifications&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Specialized Myka Sport 29er&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handle Bar Specs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Specialized flat bar, alloy, 640mm &amp;amp; 660mm wide, 8-degree backsweep, 4-degree upsweep, 25.4mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/mykaht/mykasportdisc29#specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Full Specifications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7116" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T21:06:19.880" Title="Tri-bars/Aerobars on Mountain Bikes" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16967" CreationDate="2013-08-05T17:31:26.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see a few potential problems with mounting aero bars on a mtn bike. The biggest concern I would have would be maintaining control of the bike. Aero-bars are great for straight, flat and smooth paved roads, but I wouldn't think they would be great when riding on mountain paths. If it is packed gravel the entire way and you feel comfortable riding on aero-bars then go for it.  The other main issue I see is not being able to brake or shift while in the aero position.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aero-bars will take a while to get used to and may require you to change seat position to be comfortable in the aero position.  The aero position puts stress on your lower back and glutes due to the collapsed position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a road cyclist, I prefer riding my road bike for longer rides over my Time Trial bike due to the comfort and increased control and I have never considered putting aero bars on a mtn bike, but I ride mountain trails and not packed gravel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T17:31:26.930" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16961" CreationDate="2013-08-05T17:48:54.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ismseat.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;ISM&quot;&gt;ISM&lt;/a&gt; makes saddles that reduce pressure on the perineum and according to their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ismseat.com/technology&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Technology&quot;&gt;Marketing Material&lt;/a&gt; is better for riding and having adequate blood flow.  All of their models have no nose to the saddle, so the rider sits further forward on the seat, removing the pressure area that frequently occurs with saddles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride them on all of my bikes and have had no issues after switching to them with pressure and pain in the perineum area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T17:48:54.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16967" CreationDate="2013-08-05T19:00:32.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason that aerobars may have an advantage over flat or road bars is that they are designed so that your main support mechanism is skeletal, rather than muscular. The longer the distance, the more this will hold true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NsKoZ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Normann Stadler&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture is of a top triathlete. Note that the forearms are almost parallel, and the upper arms are at a 90 degree angle. This allows the main support for the upper body to rest on the bone structure, with minimal muscle involvement. (Stadler was an Ironman distance triathlete, bike segment of 112 miles). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you may see variations on this, it is a general truism that the longer the race, the more comfort trumps aerodynamics, and vice versa (Short races aerodynamics trumps comfort.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the ultra mountain bike competitors set up their rides similarly, and have &quot;wrap&quot; style aerobars that allow them multiple different hand positions for control, as well as the resting position where their arm muscles don't have to do the work for support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That all being said, I would point out that many riders go much further than 40 miles with no pain at all. This would suggest to me that your fit is not correct, or that you are not in shape enough for a 40 mile ride yet. Tailbone pain is (usually) a bad saddle and fit, and the rest is also easily attributable to fit. Aerobars will not be a magic cureall for an improperly fitted bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2013-08-05T19:12:43.657" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T19:12:43.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-05T19:47:11.893" Score="0" ViewCount="1105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I install an 8 speed sturmey archer hub on a 6 speed dahon folding bike ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7694" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T02:28:44.737" Title="Can I install an 8 speed sturmey archer hub on a dahon folding bike" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16961" CreationDate="2013-08-05T20:21:11.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several different makers and models that are designed to be comfortable and safe for men. However, if you have known urogenital issues, then I would get with your doctor and go through some of the available models and see which one he/she would recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have recommendations, then I would find a bike shop that lets you trial saddles for a short basis, as saddle fit and comfort are highly unique from individual to individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T20:21:11.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16967" CreationDate="2013-08-05T20:55:47.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Non-aerobar possibilities for you, specifically aimed at increasing the number of available hand positions, may include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular old drop bars, possibly with a raised stem if a roadie bent-over stance is not comfortable for you (there's no rule that drop bars have to be lower than saddle height!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Bullhorn&quot; bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Moustache&quot; bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Butterfly,&quot; &quot;touring,&quot; or &quot;trekking&quot; bars. If drop bars don't do it for you, these may be the next best thing. They are especially popular in Europe and among long-distance cycling tourists; in the US you'll almost certainly have to special-order them, but Nitto and Velo Orange have them. Personally, I can't even with drop bars -- keep those things FAR away from me! -- but I love my VO Trekking bars despite their persistent creak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these bar types should have a variant that is fittable to your mountain bike, though putting your controls onto butterfly/trekking bars can be an adventure, and you may find that you need a different stem as well (for length, or for correct angle). The inimitable Sheldon has &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a handlebars page&lt;/a&gt; with pictures, OR your search engine of choice will turn up plenty of pictures, OR check around Bicycles SE for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/handlebars&quot;&gt;&quot;handlebars&quot; hashtag&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handlebars are fairly reasonably priced, as components go. You can mess around a bit and not spend too much, if you're willing to put up with the hassle of attaching and detaching brakes, shifters, etc. Swap meets may also be a good source of handlebars, because other people experiment too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! The right handlebars make a world of difference to comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T20:55:47.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16376" CreationDate="2013-08-05T21:56:20.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nickel plated chains have this done for aesthetic purposes, and to provide corrosion resistance. They are also less susceptible to the chain binding itself up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When two metallic surfaces create friction against each other, they create small areas of abrasion (Much like a plaque in your arteries). Over time, these increase to the point where the chain can kink in spots. Nickel helps to stave this off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wearing may be slightly higher than with a non coated chain, but the difference to the lifespan of the cogs (cassette) is negligible. Chains should be replaced around the 2500km mark on a regular basis, and cassettes anywhere from 5000-10000km depending on many factors. You'll go through 2-3 chains per cassette, and usually I replace my cassette with every 3rd chain no matter what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dust/dirt/mud and poor maintenance will do more harm and accelerate wear faster than any plating on the chain will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T21:56:20.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16963" CreationDate="2013-08-06T00:07:41.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;cherouvim nailed it in the comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, imagine the case where somehow (maybe a system of gears) the rearmost edge of the disc rotor were inside the fork itself. When the pads grip the rotor, the rotor tries to push the brake assembly up further into the fork. Most materials would fare very well under this arrangement. Let's call this the 0° case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, think about the current case. The force is still almost along the axis of the fork, but slightly further out, so there's some &quot;sideways&quot; torque being applied to the fork. This is maybe 5-10°, but the larger the rotor, the more torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the claim that rim brakes are just disc brakes with large rotors. This isn't right, because rim brakes are not anchored at the end of the fork. If you imagine ideal calipers anchored at the bottom of the fork that could grab the rim at the back (where a huge disc brake rotor would) with force equivalent to a disc brake system, they'd probably snap the end of the fork off (or the brake mount itself) very easily. That's the 90° case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7035" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T00:07:41.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16963" CreationDate="2013-08-06T00:24:00.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is its not so much about the forks themselves breaking - I cannot imagine that sort of force can be generated by brakes when the forks themselves have to handle the forces generated in prangs etc that would easily exceed any braking forces..... Yep - forks break in a bad prang, but no one would buy forks that did not survive a moderate fall without damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The failure point is most likely the mounting posts, or the wheel being loosened or even ejected by the brakes on a QR system (well known issue and one argument for through axles). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the idea that bigger disks give more braking and bigger forces is overly simplistic. A cheap setup with 200mm discs ridden by a 100pound wimp will not produce the same force as a top quality 160mm disc ridden by a guy with the weight and strength of a gorilla.....  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe its most likely the manufactures covering themselves and weasel words to get out of warranty claims from guys who buy cheap shocks, put on the biggest brakes they can find and ride them on the biggest drops they can find - and then claim &quot;It broke.......&quot;. The kind of guys that do this would not be seen dead on a bike with small discs..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T00:24:00.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13439" CreationDate="2013-08-06T01:57:34.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a special Presta valve suited to the tire pump or an adapter to convert your bike tire's valve temporarily to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schrader tire valve&lt;/a&gt;, so you can use a standard tire pump. After filling, you remove the adapter till the next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7696" LastEditorUserId="3639" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T01:59:43.693" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T01:59:43.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16971" CreationDate="2013-08-06T02:28:44.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure whether there are any challenges specific to a dahon bike, but here's a summary of the challenges you'll face converting any derailleur style bike to an internal gear hub:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hub width - You'll need to find an internal gear hub with the same width as the spacing between the dropouts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain tensioning - Derailleurs provide chain tensioning and with vertical dropouts you won't be able to adjust the tension with your IGH. You will probably need to install a chain tensioner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing cable and shifter - You'll most likely need to replace the cable and the shifter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than this there shouldn't be any reason you can't do this. Note that an internal gear hub will be heavier than your existing derailleur setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given Dahon make other bikes with internal gear hubs it might be worth considering purchasing one with all the gear already sorted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T02:28:44.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3950" CreationDate="2013-08-06T03:39:44.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fairly simple; to stop effectively, you need to apply the two controls in a different manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start braking, you have a given amount of weight on the front and rear wheels. As you apply the brakes, the deceleration shifts weight from the rear wheels to the front wheels, which gives more traction at the front, and less traction at the rear. More traction at the front means that you can apply the brakes more there, less traction at the rear means that you need to reduce the power on the rear brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I used to teach motorcycle safety, we would say &quot;progressive squeeze on the front brake, light to lighter pressure on the rear&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T03:39:44.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14965" CreationDate="2013-08-06T07:05:57.260" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to jm2's post, there's also a mirror that is integrated into a bar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fd6JT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bar Mirror&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages: Foldable, unobtrusive, usage as bar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantage: Small mirror =&gt; very limited field of vision&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7698" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T07:05:57.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16963" CreationDate="2013-08-06T08:14:05.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I like the above two answers &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; ... since they say what I want to hear. However, here is what SR SunTour responded to my official support request (after less than two hours of the request!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dear Mr. Vitkov,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the leverage is much higher if you go for a bigger rotor than 185mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You risk that the fork breaks if you go for a 203mm rotor!! So we&#xA;  strongly recommend not to do this if you don´t want to get seriously&#xA;  injured!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For most riders a 185mm rotor is more than enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Best regards Benjamin Rees&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still do not know what to believe. For example, I do not know of 185mm rotors, the closest I have seen is 180mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another controversial point is that their more expensive forks - EPICON and AXON also are limited to 185mm, I managed to locate only 1 fork limited to 210mm - a dirt jump intended one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility that I can think of is that the stanchion tubes could brake off the lower tubes at very high deceleration. However, deceleration is as much function of the rotor size as of the brake type e.g. high-quality hydraulic or the cheapest mechanical brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-08-06T08:20:38.253" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T08:20:38.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16983" CreationDate="2013-08-06T15:26:22.413" Score="4" ViewCount="14115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2010 Specialized Tarmac Comp. The wheels are Mavic Aksiums and are pretty well known to be dam heavy (but sturdy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm seriously considering swapping them for something like Fulcrum Racing 3's, that alone should save around 500g&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never ridden another bike and never changed wheels before so will I notice a reasonable difference and do you think its worth swapping them for something like the Fulcrums?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interested in peoples opinions pros/cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I weigh 80kgs ride a mixture of flat to very hilly terrain and approximately 80-100 miles / week&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7657" LastEditorUserId="7657" LastEditDate="2013-08-06T20:32:45.523" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T00:59:41.663" Title="Will I notice the benefits of changing wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;advice&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16982" CreationDate="2013-08-06T16:03:17.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think probably swapping your wheels out is just about the single biggest improvement you can make to a bike in terms of performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did this last year and love the new wheels. I too was riding Aksiums (I think) and bought some Fast Forwards. Qualitatively I am very impressed (but then I should be, if you boil everything down to money the FFwds cost 5x a set of Aksiums). Quantitatively, its difficult to say how noticeable the change is. I didn't see my average speeds jump or anything, at least not enough to notice. (I certainly notice being blown across the road sometimes (6cm rims), but that I'm not sure that counts!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now the caveat.....it all depends what you swap them for. I have no experience of Fulcrums so can't say how good that particular swap would be. Possibly someone else could help there. All I would note is that they're still toward the lower end of the price range (when you think you could spent thousands on wheels), so possibly they might not make as much difference as you'd hope. But as I say that's based on a hunch rather than direct knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other point: not so long ago I had a spoke go on the Ffwds. Was a real pain in the ass to get a replacement (they were fancy bladed DT Swiss spokes and you're always recommended to change like for like). Nobody in the UK could sell me just a handful of spokes, only a box of them at about £100. In the end I found a place in the US who would sell them singly, just for a dollar or two, but it cost in terms of delivery and duty. I'm just saying, whatever wheelset you get it might be worth making sure you can source spares for it easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T16:03:17.030" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16984" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-06T16:20:33.680" Score="9" ViewCount="1547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in road bike tires and how width affects how long they last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems common-sense that a wider tire would wear better, as there's simply more of it to &quot;spread&quot; the wear, but I'd like to know if this is true in practice. Answers based on experience or actual studies/research would both be interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd normally run wider tires at a lower pressure appropriate to the load, but this may make comparison harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could braking and cornering have different effects on tire wear? For example, perhaps wider tires wear less in braking, but more due to cornering. If this was the case then the answer might depend on how much braking/cornering the rider does. There might also be a difference between the front and back tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T17:12:25.973" Title="Do wider tires wear better?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2013-08-06T16:56:45.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about &quot;Back off Jack&quot;  This works when the bike is upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7702" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T16:56:45.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16984" CreationDate="2013-08-06T16:59:05.823" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I'm not a road biker, I can speak from experience with mountain bike tires. The first spot to wear is the center of the tread. Why? It's the part that is ridden on the most. Increasing the width of your tire with increase the contact patch (the part of the tire touching the ground); therefore, your wear is going to be the same because that contact patch is still hitting the ground the same amount. That said, the amount of pressure put on that contact patch can change due to width, as the mass of the bike and rider is spread across the larger area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire pressures can affect your contact patch as well, lower pressures allow more of the tire to hit the road or trail. This means your going to expose more of the tire to wear, increase grip (in the case of mountain tires, don't know about road so much), and increase rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other wear patterns will depend on the type of terrain and riding style. If you ride on very smooth asphalt, you probably aren't going to wear through a tire that fast, but if you ride on loose, rocky, beat-up roads, that's going to eat at the rubber much more quickly. Similarly, if you do more straight-line riding you're most likely going to see the center wear quicker than the sides, but if you turn more (or skid a lot when braking into turns) you can wear down the sides quite a bit too. There are other environmental factors to consider as well (heat, humidity, etc.) that can affect tire wear, but those are much harder to quantify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look more into finding specific types of tire, maybe ones that address the hard/softness of the rubber instead of looking for wider tires. Also try experimenting with tire pressures outside of what you're doing now. If you want some hard numbers, I would recommend looking at specific tire manufacturers who may have testing data available and estimated mileage charts for certain riding conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T16:59:05.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16984" CreationDate="2013-08-06T17:25:42.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common sense says you're correct in your assumption of wide tires wearing more slowly. The middle of the tire will wear rapidly to take the crown off of the tire. Then, once the crown is flattened out and the wear shifts towards the sides of the tire, the wear slows down significantly. There are so many variables for tire wear it isn't funny. You have front versus rear wear patterns, weight of the rider, weight of the bicycle and any accessories mounted to the bike, and of course, the riding conditions like temperature and road surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you also must take into consideration the quality of the tire itself, including the construction technique. Probably the most important factor for any tire would be the maintainence factor. Proper pressure and inspection should make any tire last longer. Back in &quot;the day&quot; when radial tires were available, they had much better tire wear, no matter what the width, than regular tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 1985 Miyata LT1000 touring bike that came equiped with radial tires. I wish now I would have purchased a couple dozen of those tires! They're 700c x 32c. I have replaced the rear tire several times, but the front tire is still the original Made in Japan tire that now has in excess of 26,000 miles on it! It shows very little wear to this day. Not even sun damage like cracking is visible so far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with automobile tires, the wider the tire, the less pounds per square inch on the road surface, the slower the wear. That's why wide tires are no good on snow or icy roads. They have less traction on the surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher the air pressure you run in your tires, the more quickly they will wear out because there is less tire in contact with the road surface. The center of the tire will wear down to the carcass quicker. Once the carcass is exposed, the tread left at the sides doesn't matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T11:24:50.863" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T11:24:50.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16989" CreationDate="2013-08-06T17:51:04.880" Score="1" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Vittoria Rubino Pro Slick 700x23 and a Conti GP4000S 700x25. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys think about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mounting different tires on a bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;which tire should go where? The Vittoria has around 200 miles on it and Conti has less than a 100.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2013-08-07T14:26:38.733" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T14:26:38.733" Title="Is it okay to use mismatching tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-08-07T17:22:53.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16988" CreationDate="2013-08-06T17:56:53.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Certain manufacturers sell different tires for front and back and I have run different tires on front and back on multiple bikes when one tire is worn or punctured and needed to be replaced, but the other tire still has tread/life.  Mixing brands isn't an issue other than one tire wearing faster than the other one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It shouldn't matter which tire goes where, but judging at the rate that my tires wear, put the newer tire on the back since it will wear faster than the front tire. I usually move the older tire to the front since it will wear slower and if there are punctures caused by the age of the tire, it is easier to replace a front tire than a back..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastEditorUserId="6795" LastEditDate="2013-08-06T19:12:20.810" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T19:12:20.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16982" CreationDate="2013-08-06T19:16:34.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched from Aksiums (2010, they weigh around 1900 grams without skewers) to Ksyrium Equipes (2005, slightly lighter, but I never verified the weight). I never noticed a difference in how the wheels felt or spun up, but someone else might. A bicycle mechanic friend related an anecdote regarding someone who once tested how sensitive riders were to added weight (in the form of lead weights in the seat tube) on a bike. In a nutshell, professional riders noticed an increase of a few ounces, but non-professionals did not notice until nearly a pound of lead was added. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings/components.php?type=roadwheels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The actual weight of a wheelset often differs from the published/claimed weight.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention how much you weigh, or how much/where you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm around 200lbs (91kg) and I average 50 miles (80 km)/week. Some climbing, mostly flat terrain. I'm not racing, so my primary concern is solid wheels which are not high-maintenance and represent good value, last a long time, etc. I got tired of broken spokes on the rear wheel when I was riding Mavics, so I switched to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=86_235_350&amp;amp;products_id=2316&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. I think I'd be better off losing some weight than paying big money for lighter wheels, but I might think differently if I was lighter and doing a lot of climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My $0.02 would be to get wheels that fit the kind of riding you're doing. In my own case, the Mavic Ksyrium Equipes were a foolish choice, in hindsight. I got them off eBay for a good price, but I didn't find out they were 2005s until I got them, and after three broken spokes ($30 each to fix at my LBS) in 3,000 miles, I decided to get something that required less maintenance. Mavic wheels use proprietary spokes, which many LBS do not keep in stock. There is enough information out there on the 'Net to make it clear that Mavic wheels are not made for 90kg+ riders, and I should have done my homework more carefully. I would encourage you to do yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T19:16:34.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16996" CreationDate="2013-08-06T21:54:46.773" Score="1" ViewCount="1775" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/topeak-aero-wedge-strap-on-saddle-bag/rp-prod7361&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;saddle bag&lt;/a&gt; I own has two elastic loops on the underside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12761/how-should-i-store-inner-tubes-to-maximize-their-shelf-life&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; on long-term storage of tubes I can see tubes don't like changing temperatures (not really a problem in Ireland as the temperature doesn't vary too drastically) or direct sunlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to wrap the tube (to protect from the elements and sunlight), would under the saddle bag be a suitable place to store it? At the moment I keep it inside the saddle bag but I would like to have the extra bit of space if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only cycle ~100km per week and it's a cheap spare tube so it's easily replaceable. (Doesn't need to offer long-term protection).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7397" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T21:28:14.667" Title="Storing spare tube under saddle bag" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-06T23:30:58.440" Score="6" ViewCount="4252" Body="&lt;p&gt;My otherwise reliable non-GPS bike computer calculates an extremely inaccurate average speed for my morning commutes. After my ride this morning, I read the following values from the display (units are in miles and miles per hour):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trip dist: 1.70&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trip time: 00:06:29&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;avg speed: 16.47&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;max speed: 23.86&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the actual average speed is: 1.7 / (6 / 60 + 29 / 3600) = 15.73. The reported value is off by almost 5%. This bothers me because I like to set goals to improve my average speed (for my traffic-light-enforced &quot;interval training&quot;), but the inaccuracy is higher than the 0.5 mph increments I reach for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have assumed that a bike computer would compute average speed simply by dividing &quot;trip dist&quot; by &quot;trip time&quot;? What is it computing, and why is it different than the true average?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(slightly related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16253/why-arent-average-speeds-computed-over-distance&quot;&gt;Why aren&amp;#39;t average speeds computed over distance?&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T12:57:08.293" Title="Why would a bike computer calculate distance accurately but average speed inaccurately?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16997" CreationDate="2013-08-07T09:18:20.923" Score="19" ViewCount="3824" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penny-farthing&quot;&gt;penny-farthing&lt;/a&gt; was the standard until the diamond-frame &quot;safety bike&quot; was &quot;invented&quot; and revolutionalized the world of bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me strange to have to &quot;invent&quot; to put the same size of wheels on a bike, composed of two triangles (the idea of triangles is meny hundreds of years old in civil engineering). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did those awkward and dangerous bikes exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T17:11:56.190" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T07:51:42.660" Title="Why the penny-farthing?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;history&gt;&lt;penny-farthing&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16993" CreationDate="2013-08-07T10:19:59.127" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the simple reason is that the drivechain hadn't been invented. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 1818 the dandy-horse or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_bicycle#1817_to_1819:_the_draisine_or_velocipede&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;draisine&lt;/a&gt; was invented. This was similar in shape to a modern bicycle, but without pedals. Riders would scoot along with their feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8d/Draisine_or_Laufmaschine%2C_around_1820._Archetype_of_the_Bicycle._Pic_01.jpg/300px-Draisine_or_Laufmaschine%2C_around_1820._Archetype_of_the_Bicycle._Pic_01.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wooden draisine (from wikipedia)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go a bit faster, especially on any kind of incline, then you need a better way of putting power in. Without a drivechain the only option is pedals connected directly to a wheel. The larger the wheel, the bigger the gearing. The circumference of these wheels was measured in inches and is why you may still hear gear ratios described in gear-inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the large wheels were unwieldy and limited by the length of the rider's inside leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.403" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T07:51:42.660" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16992" CreationDate="2013-08-07T12:35:30.873" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, this actually requires some knowledge of how these little computers work internally. Bicycle computers need to be extremely low-power, so the easiest way to do this is to make them very simple. Normal computers are able to use non-integer numbers. An integer is 1,2,3,4, etc., non-integer means for instance 1/2, 0.5762 or pi. Computers use so-called floating point numbers to represent non-integer numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, floating point numbers are very hard to use for these small computers compared to integers. So, they don't! They only use integers to do all necessary calculations, and with very little exceptions they are all limited to 8-bit integers. An 8-bit integer can store a value of 0-255. So, any calculation will (a) not be more precise than a whole number (e.g.: dividing 8 by 5 will yield 1 instead of 1.6 because you cannot represent numbers behind the decimal point) and (b) cannot exceed beyond the range of 0-255.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's even worse: most bicycle computers can't even do math. Well, they can usually add and multiply, but they cannot divide or subtract. They are really super bare bones stuff, because they have to survive for a couple years on the juice in a single coin cell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how does this affect the calculation of distance, speed and eventually average speed? Well, a bike computer has only 2 inputs: a very precise timer (usually outputting between 1024 and 32768 pulses per second) and a pulse input from a magnet on your wheel. It also knows how long the circumference of your wheel is. So, in order to calculate your current speed it does the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait for a pulse from your wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;start a timer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when the next wheel pulse arrives, stop the timer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;divide your wheel circumference by the time and use a lookup table to convert this into something human-readable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's say the timer runs at 1024Hz and your bike wheel turns at about 5 rotations per second (36km/h or 22mph). This would mean that you would count floor(1024/5)=204 timer ticks per wheel rotation. In the little processor is a lookup table that relates those 204 ticks to your specific wheel size (which you programmed in) and then finds what speed needs to be displayed on your screen. It doesn't actually calculate it, because it's very hard for that processor to do such things. Besides, this table only needs to be a couple wheel sizes by a few tens or maybe 100 different time values. For instance a 5x100 table, pretty small in computer terms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Distance is very easy to calculate: just multiply wheel circumference by the number of rotations. Then use another lookup table to relate this to something displayable. This too only requires a small lookup table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, average speed is not something that can be put into a reasonable-size lookup table. There are just too many possible trip distance and trip time values that can occur. So these computers have to cheat somehow: either they need to use the very limited math capabilities they have, or they need to round some things down or look for the nearest average value. This is exactly what your bike computer is doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more advanced bicycle computers, especially nowadays. With older designs, you could really see this lookup table-nature of operation: it could display for instance 22.3 km/h and 22.5, but not 22.4. Why? It was not in the lookup table. No matter how hard you would try to ride exactly at 22.4 km/h, it would never actually display this value. Also, older designs would only allow you to enter the inch-size of your tires, not the actual precise circumference in mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, there are actually bike computers that can handle more 'complex' mathematical operations and use better number representations (either 16-bit integers or floating point numbers) to get to a better estimate of your speed and averages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7711" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T12:35:30.873" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16991" CreationDate="2013-08-07T13:55:05.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll sum up some of the comments with some concerns that you need to address:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive moisture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temperature changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abrasion and movement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Access&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply wrapping the tube in something non/semi-porous and opaque will help keep it safe from the elements, but not from temperature changes, but it sounds like that's not going to be too much of a factor. You should also consider any bits of dirt, water, road, mud that are going to be kicked up from your rear wheel under the saddle bag. This could cause some excessive wear after you installed the tube in the tire unless you clean it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a few of the other comments have stated, you may want to consider other means of storing your ride supplies. You've got a spare tube but do you have a pump? Is it a frame pump or small enough to store in a bag? Tire levers and a multitool are also going to take up space. I'd recommend looking at either a larger bag or purchasing something like a hydration pack (CamelBak, Dakine, Osprey, etc.) to store your tools, clothes, food, and whatever else. That way you can plan a variety of rides without needing to awkwardly stow tubes, pumps, and anything else on your bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT:&lt;/em&gt; (Kudos to Chris H) If you've already got a way of storing all that,you want to make sure it is secure and protected from dirt. It doesn't need to be sealed completely, as you want to make sure any moisture such as condensation can evaporate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-08-07T21:28:14.667" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T21:28:14.667" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16993" CreationDate="2013-08-07T15:59:47.747" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;It only seems strange to you because you've had the benefit of never having to learn the lessons of the penny farthing and the technological achievements of the safety bicycle firsthand (aka 'standing on the shoulders of giants syndrome').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The penny farthing is only awkward and dangerous because you are comparing it against a technological leap forward. That technology you are taking for granted, and are not realizing just how difficult it was to develop those technology without having the advantage of already knowing about it. Two of the key pieces of technology in a bicycle you are taking for granted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;JamesBradbury's answer shows the dandy horse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pneumatic tire: rubber tires didn't exist until 1887, when John Boyd Dunlop invented them. Without pneumatic tires, the ride from a smaller wheeled vehicle would be awful compared to a penny farthing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain - The humble, tiny roller chain requires a significant amount of manufacturing sophistication to be made affordable. A bicycle chain has around 500 individual parts that all have to be precisely fit together. Mass production was a fairly new concept, and really only began in the 1850's and first being effectively used during the US civil war. Importantly, the chain wasn't invented until 1880.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safety bicycle had some initial problems of its own too, it began with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treadle_bicycle&quot;&gt;treadle bicycle&lt;/a&gt;, prior to the inclusion of the chain drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the idea of &quot;triangles&quot; and their use as structural members isn't as old as you might think. Sure, people have known for a long time that triangles are 'strong', but our analytical and mathematical knowledge of them is only since the middle 17th century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the bottom line: people rode penny farthings because the modern bicycle wasn't invented yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T17:13:49.330" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T17:13:49.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16993" CreationDate="2013-08-07T16:32:25.303" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget, when the penny farthing was invented, horses were still a major mode of transport - when you see people on horseback regularly, the idea of sitting that high up doesn't seem unreasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T16:32:25.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16376" CreationDate="2013-08-07T19:50:00.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the bicycle chains are made using some form of steel/steel alloy. Nickel is an essential element in forming stainless steel, the reason to add Nickel is to retain the austenitic structure(a type of crystalline structure) for wide range of temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel has the appearance of a nickel-plated chain, but will still retain the look when old and used(kept clean of course). Unlike steel; the nickel-plated chain's plating may get worn off due to use and appear as though paint has chipped away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also see some chains that have special electro-plating of chromium/nickel, a.k.a dripping chrome trying to be aesthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nickel plating on metal is known to provide corrosion resistance and has lubricant effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T19:50:00.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16966" CreationDate="2013-08-07T20:39:53.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't make your front wheel sit lower without replacing the fork, and even if you switch to longer-drop brakes (I assume they're dual-pivot calipers if it's a racing-style bike), you can't easily move the mounting bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only options I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if moving the rear wheel in the drops works, keep both tyres for the rear wheel and buy a single smaller tyre for the front (cost: 1 extra tyre)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get wider rims, to flatten the tyre's cross-sectional profile (this is a lot more expensive than just buying new tyres though, and I'd hate to speculate on what width you need to save your 2mm+) (cost: 1 or 2 wheels, depending on 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get a new front fork, only if 1 works (cost: 1 fork + maybe paying your local shop to cut the steerer tube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;just get new tyres and sell the old ones - say they're unused and didn't work for your bike (cost: depends on what you can sell the tyres for)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T20:39:53.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17001" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17026" CreationDate="2013-08-07T22:39:04.407" Score="4" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various sites recommend a variety of exercises to strengthen a cyclist's core (back and upper body). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/core?page=0,0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycling.com&lt;/a&gt; recommends aerobic type exercises with an exercise ball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/sports_body_training_performance/deconstructing_computer_guy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;t-nation.com&lt;/a&gt; recommends weights, rowing machines, and other curious exercises. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having some difficulty knowing which ones are most important, and/or if some are redundant etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I ask: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What supporting muscle groups need to be strengthened?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In what order of priority should those muscle groups be addressed?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the optimal strength to maintain for each of the groups?&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;By optimal strength I mean how much effort (10min 3x wk for example) do they need? If it depends on how much biking then please answer for a nice spectrum of distances such as 60mi/wk, 150 mi/wk, 300 mi/wk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that information I should be able to research the various recommended exercises to determine which are redundant and which are of primary importance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1339" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T00:20:19.973" Title="What Supporting Muscle Groups Should Be Strengthened?" Tags="&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17003" CreationDate="2013-08-07T22:49:33.410" Score="11" ViewCount="18179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious about what is the maximum distance you can live from work so that it's a reasonable biking distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in biking about 30 minutes to work. It would be about 5 miles away. I have a heavy cruiser bicycle (Schwinn). It would be a leisurely ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3848" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T20:47:24.700" LastActivityDate="2020-06-20T11:08:24.950" Title="What is considered a good &quot;safe biking distance&quot; to bike to work?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bike-culture&gt;&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17002" CreationDate="2013-08-07T23:22:36.540" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good safe biking distance is the distance that one can enjoy the bike ride to work, get there a few minutes early to clean up or shower and after work enjoy another bike ride home and still spare some time to spend with family/ loved ones/have a life besides work and the commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I limit my bike commute to about an hour each way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastEditorUserId="7416" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T06:49:59.630" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T06:49:59.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-08T00:10:33.373" Score="1" ViewCount="4082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finished a 2 hour bike ride outside today, and I parked it next to the wall in my kitchen after I got home. 3-4 hours later... all the sudden the front tire just &quot;blew up&quot;. What happened? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7721" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T16:24:05.437" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T11:57:12.247" Title="Why did my tire just blow up?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16551" CreationDate="2013-08-08T00:15:45.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cog and/or freewheel will not come with the hub unless it explicitly states it (it is not typical to come with it, as rear cogs come in different tooth count and width)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make this easier, these are all the parts required for a fixed gear bicycle with a threaded headset:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Frame&#xA;Fork&#xA;Headset&#xA;Stem&#xA;Handlebars&#xA;Bar Tape or Grips, Depending&#xA;Brake Levers&#xA;Brake Cable &amp;amp; Associated Parts&#xA;Brake (please, have at least 2 methods of stopping available, always)&#xA;Front Wheel&#xA;Back Wheel&#xA;Seatpost&#xA;Saddle&#xA;Chain&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the front wheel, these are needed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Hub&#xA;Spokes&#xA;Nipples&#xA;Rim&#xA;Rim Tape&#xA;Tube&#xA;Tire&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rear wheel, these are needed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Hub&#xA;Rear Cog and/or Freewheel&#xA;Spokes&#xA;Nipples&#xA;Rim&#xA;Rim Tape&#xA;Tube&#xA;Tire&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, your bike may have been designed with 27 inch wheels originally (which I think it did), but you'll probably want to build new wheels with 700c rims.  That will offer you more choices and, because they are the current standard, will most likely be cheaper.  This will affect the geometry slightly (the wheelbase will be shorter) and you will need to make sure your brake reach is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read this page &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/how-to-fixed-conversion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, as it covers a lot of necessary topics.  While it's not always practical, you might want to start getting to know your local bike shop now (one that is friendly toward people that build fixed gear conversions).  It will save you pain in the long run (from not letting you buy the wrong sized part to helping you reuse what you have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6894" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T00:15:45.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-08T00:25:10.800" Score="3" ViewCount="6467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a new Demolition Stem.I tight it with all my force And It keeps slipping side to side Like it doesnt match with the fork lined up And whenever I check it its fine but after a while it is always not lined up with the fork..Please help me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i97fg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Demolition Stem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7722" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T02:39:16.833" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T01:14:50.373" Title="My stem keeps moving side to side even thought I tighten it" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16916" CreationDate="2013-08-08T01:48:13.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a bunch of forum posts from people with similar problems. Shimano freewheels made prior to about 1985 have smaller diameters, about 20mm instead of 22-23mm that they have today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A search for &quot;Shimano freewheel remover 20mm&quot; brings up some useful results. It looks like Bicycle Research Tools makes a remover called the CT-4 which is designed for older Shimano freeheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastEditorUserId="7724" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T13:31:56.360" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T13:31:56.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17004" CreationDate="2013-08-08T02:36:10.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the tire carefully for a split in the carcass. There may have been a small split starting to appear, and leaving the bike in a position where the sun could come through a window and hit the bike, may have caused the tire pressure to increase enough to extend a split in the carcass enough so that the tube was forced through the tire and it blew the tube. I had a bike in the basement do this same thing. I had changed the tube and didn't realize the tire had a small split in teh carcass. I aired the tire up to the maximum and set it aside. Apparently the sun coming in through a window had enough of an effect on the tire that it suddenly blew the tire right off of the rim! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T02:36:10.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17002" CreationDate="2013-08-08T02:46:07.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The distance is really up to the individual. If this is to be a daily commute, then you'll need to consider the weather at times. Five miles should be easy to cover with a cruiser type bicycle. It's just that at times when it's raining or the wind is blowing at 25mph, that five miles will seem like ten miles. The safety part will be determined by the condition of the roads traveled, the amount of traffic, and how you must dress for your commute. If the commute will be made only when conditions are acceptable as being &quot;comfortable&quot;, then you should have no problem with using the Schwinn cruiser for the ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T02:46:07.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17002" CreationDate="2013-08-08T07:20:33.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answers have touched on this but not explicitly.  The main safety point I would say is how you ride when you're tired.  If you're exhausted and can't keep a straight line up a busy hill, don't think to look over your shoulder in time etc., that's bad and getting dangerous.  tiredness can really hit your judgement and reaction times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise it depends on your starting level of fitness and facilities in work more than safety.  I started from an occasional leisure ride by riding the 9-10 mile each way commute once a week for a couple of weeks, then twice, but not consecutive days.  Now I'll happily do 4 days in a week if it fits in, and would try every day but haven't had the chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that the bike doesn't make that much difference at the scale of your ride or mine - with the obvious caveat that it fits reasonably well and isn't in a terrible condition or something weird.  If it's OK on a cruiser it will be better on a road bike or hybrid (my choice for urban riding given the state of the roads/hills and the need to see over cars), but if you find it horrible on a cruiser, you wouldn't find it a pleasure on an unfamiliar road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you're at risk of heart attacks, recovering from an injury or whatever it's a different matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T07:20:33.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16992" CreationDate="2013-08-08T10:15:32.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the clue lies in the short distance you ride as there are two uncertainty points in the way your computer works that have a large impact if the distances are short but more or less vanish for longer distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First lets see how a digital bike computer works: basically it does two things as it counts how often the little spoke magnet has passed its sensor, giving it (with knowledge of the wheel circumference) the travelled distance, and it measures the time between two magnet passages to get the speed. If the magnet has just passed the computer is just waiting for the next time to pass which means that the computer is deaf and blind during this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stop your bike now there's some awkward situation for your computer as it waits for the next impulse from the passing magnet which will never come as the wheel doesn't turn anymore. You can watch this moment on your computers trip timer as the seconds of the stop watch are still counting for about 3 to 5 seconds although you're already standing. This is the time where the computer waits for the the next impulse to come but doesn't get one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it gets a bit speculative: I would guess that that your computer has basically two counters, one for the number of wheel rotations and one for the time needed for those rotations, while the trip time is running on a separate counter that is just for the time output but is not taken into calculations. The difference between the rotation time counter (RTC) and the stop watch counter (SWC) is that the RTC contains only the time where the computer can tell for sure that the wheel was turning, while the SWC also contains time where the computer was waiting if the wheel is still turning. As cycling computers are primarily constructed for longer rides (where you normally don't stop every five minutes) this discrepancy won't make a big effect there, but in your case with a very short measurement time it might make quite an effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you calculate back from the average your computer has to the time it should have used, you get 6 min 12 sec which is a difference of 17 secs to your computer's trip time. You write something about &quot;traffic light-enforced interval training&quot;, so I guess you have to stop at some of them. If you now assume that your trip time will count about 3 to 5 extra seconds at each stop, it will take only about 3 to 5 stops to get the time difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T10:15:32.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16992" CreationDate="2013-08-08T10:20:55.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suspect the average-speed calculation is performed with insufficient numeric accuracy, for all the reasons detailed in the other answer (essentially, making the battery last a long time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, lets say the distance is stored in metres, and the time in seconds, e.g:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;distance = int(1.7 * 1000) # in metres&#xA;time = int(6*60 + 29) # in seconds&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to calculate the avg-speed without using floating-point calculations, my first attempt might be this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(distance*10 // time*10 * 36) / (10*10*10) # result: 15.48&#xA;# The `36` is (60sec*60sec) * 1000m to convert to m/s to km/h, multiplied by 10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..this would result in a value of 15.48 km/h. An embedded device would likely perform the calculation quite differently and have different limitations, but this shows the general issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared this to the floating point equivalent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;float(distance) / float(time) * 3.6 # result: ~15.732&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(note: the above calculations were done in Python 3, &lt;code&gt;/&lt;/code&gt; is float division, &lt;code&gt;//&lt;/code&gt; is integer division.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastEditorUserId="4353" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T12:57:08.293" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T12:57:08.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17006" CreationDate="2013-08-08T14:46:03.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible you tightened the pinch bolts before tightening the bolt that runs vertically and holds the top cap down?  If you do that, the entire assembly won't be fixed tightly on the vertical and will allow side-to-side play.  I did that once and the symptoms were exactly as you describe.  To check this, loosen the pinch bolts and the bolt in the top cap.  Now tighten the top cap bolt first, then the pinch bolts.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Be very carefully while tightening the top cap. If tightened to much, it can overload and ruin the headset bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon's site&lt;/a&gt; showing the bolts I mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kuT3f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2013-12-20T02:15:02.050" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T02:15:02.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-08T15:08:31.503" Score="-2" ViewCount="487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Calfee carbon fiber frame, with aobut 45,000 miles.   If I replace it with a new one, what improvements can I expect?  I have no complaints about the frame, other than a poor paint job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7736" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T18:03:15.480" Title="Replacing a road bike frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-09-13T13:37:04.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17006" CreationDate="2013-08-08T15:19:30.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you tighten the pinch bolts of a stem, you should notice how the gap around the steerer closes. If it closes so much as the two sides touch, it is more likely that any further tightening will only press one side against the other, not around the steerer, which will give the described symptom. This observation should also be made when tightening the handlebar clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this situation will only arise in case of a size mismatch, on in a really severe case of worn components. The latter will usually be detectable by simple inspection, but is less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another cause known to me for the described symptom is that there where &quot;dust&quot; trapped between the stem and the steerer. This dust is wear byproduct, it is actually metallic. I believe that this dust is ball-bearing like, so it allows pieces to slip even if properly tightened. The solution here is to clean the components prior to assembly. (This effect actually happened to me with an aluminium frame and a titanium seatpost. The seatpost was wearing down the seat tube, generating this &quot;dust&quot;. In such situation the seatpost would lower itself by just riding the bike. The solution was to exchange the seatpost for one with a smoother surface)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:23:19.480" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:23:19.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17001" CreationDate="2013-08-08T15:20:31.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;What supporting muscle groups need to be strengthened?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of them! Cycling is a full body sport, despite what some people will say. Ever ridden a long ride on a road bike? You may have soreness all the way from your neck to your toes. Some of this can be from poor bike setup, but that's another topic entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major muscles are obviously going to be legs, back, and core as these are the muscle groups that support the motor (making the bike go). Next up is your upper chest and back, shoulders, and arms which all support the driving (telling the bike where to go). If you ride on bumpy roads or trails you know how much your arms get beat up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;In what order of priority should those muscle groups be addressed?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not train exclusively one set of muscles over another, that's just generally bad practice. You should look to strengthen all your muscle groups. Now, if you have a specific objective in mind, like &quot;I want to climb hills like a mountain goat.&quot; you may want to start by targeting your weak points (leg power) or strengthening the needed portion (hamstrings, quads, calves). For all around cycling fitness, don't just work the &quot;mirror muscles&quot; aka the big ones that have lots of definition. Supporting muscles are what keep you from getting injuries in your joints or excessive stresses in your major muscles, so don't neglect those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;What is the optimal strength to maintain for each of the groups? By optimal strength I mean how much effort (10min 3x wk for example) do they need? If it depends on how much biking then please answer for a nice spectrum of distances such as 60mi/wk, 150 mi/wk, 300 mi/wk. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this depends on your goal. If you're a weekend warrior looking to do some nice leisurely rides around the lake or through town, you'd probably be OK working out 2-3x per week for 30 mins doing basic bodyweight strength training. But if you're wanting to prepare for a bike race, triathlon, cross-country epic, you'll want to do 3-4x (or more) for 45-60 minutes a week to not only maintain, but develop and improve your strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross training (running, swimming, lifting, etc.) can be very valuable to any athlete from amateur to pro. Look at various programs and find what works for you. Body types, goals, and external limits can help you plan the type of program that will work best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note: I'm not a certified/licensed trainer/doctor/physician but I've been doing sports since ever of all kinds, and currently race amateur class mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T15:20:31.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16960" CreationDate="2013-08-08T15:39:00.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Daniel R Hicks pointed out; that style of brake caliper can be a pain to work with, however there are a few things that you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure that the calipers can rotate side to side, they're supposed to be able to do this.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is intended to work as a self centering system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Imagine the brake being set up off center(where one pad is much closer to the rim than the other). When you hit the brake one pad is going to the hit the rim first. In the case of the brake pivoting around the mounting bolt the other pad will be forced toward the rim. If the brake is fixed at the mounting bolt, then the frame will resist the force coming from the pad/rim interface, and you will essentially be braking with only one pad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mounting pivot usually consists of an acorn nut and locknut system. The locknut sets the appropriate pressure on the brake arms to eliminate play while allowing the system to loose enough to pivot smoothly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure all of the pivot points are smooth&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean out the pivot points as best as you can and apply a little oil(chain lube works fine)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I wouldn't take the calipers apart, even if you know what you're doing, it's a pain and usually not worth it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finally, you can re-bend the springs to center the brake&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is best done with the Park Tool OBW-3 &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p6UNh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tool OBW-3&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bend the spring when the brake is mounted. Make small adjustments, and keep re-checking to see if the brake is centered. You want fatigue the spring as little as possible. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be careful doing this! Old springs are usually oxidized and you can snap them when you re bend them. It is also possible to snap the washer that clamps down on the spring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7688" LastEditorUserId="7688" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T17:15:54.510" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T17:15:54.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17020" CreationDate="2013-08-08T18:03:15.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Highly dependent on the manufacturing process, of which there are a handful of categories and endless variations. Most carbon frames these days are some variation of the monocoque process, and if I were to venture to guess I would say your 02 Calfee is carbon lugged carbon tubes- so there's one difference. Given the brand that you currently own I assume you'll be looking for a high end replacement for it. You're almost certainly going to find yourself looking at lighter frames, but over the last few years many manufacturers have started focusing on improving ride quality over weight savings of their top of the line frames. You'll hear the terms &quot;lateral stiffness&quot; and &quot;vertical compliance&quot; a lot, as those are 2 of the primary qualities (but not the only qualities) that make for a good riding, good handling bike. These are the areas where you should see the most improvement over your current frame. On the other hand, if you're happy with your current frame beyond the paint, maybe you should consider getting it repainted which Calfee themselves would help you out with, or at least get you pointed in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you'd like a more in depth description of lateral, vertical, and torsional stiffness and compliance, and how bike manufacturers try to balance them all out &lt;a href=&quot;http://veloaficionado.com/bicycle-compliance/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;read this article.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T18:03:15.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17001" CreationDate="2013-08-08T21:29:33.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For core, read Tom Danielson's &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/193403097X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Core Advantage&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.  It's exactly what I did in PT after getting hit by a car and suffering lots of back pain. The key is inner core.  So no crunches. The inner core muscles are associated more with balance than movement.  Not saying you don't need outer core too, but most people neglect IC in pursuit of 6-pack abs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the off-season, all the cyclists I know do lots of dead-lifts, squats, good-mornings and shoulder presses,in addition to riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7663" LastEditorUserId="1339" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T04:33:54.010" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T04:33:54.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9863" CreationDate="2013-08-08T23:09:07.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favorite method is to remove the tube from the tire, reinflate it a bit, and completely submerse it in a swimming pool. I've used this to quickly identify leaks that were so slow they took days to deflate the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7743" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T23:09:07.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2013-08-08T23:20:49.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's always a safety factor built in to the engineering design. I'm fat and out of shape, and I've had pretty good luck running about 20% over the sidewall spec. Yes, you'll run a risk that the manufacturer never intended. Yes, you'll be more likely to pop your tires and cause injury to yourself and to others. (Yes, I have a BSME Mechanical Engineering with a fluid mechanics specialization and happen to have been doing this for years on old, worn-out bicycles without a problem.) I do want to warn you that a harsh ride is hard on your bicycle, especially the bearings. It's also going to be more important that the rim itself is free of burrs and that the backs of your spoke nuts aren't exposed (if applicable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within a minimum and maximum pressure range, bicycle tire pressure is largely subjective. If you want a smoother ride or are worried about dry grip, go low. If you want a harsher ride that's easier to pedal or are worried about wet grip, go high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7744" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T23:20:49.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7477" CreationDate="2013-08-08T23:24:06.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;well just changed the front canti  to reg Dual pivot long reach Road bike brake .found a off brand $23 in my local do it youself  bike shop( Kraynicks )here in Pittsburgh . tried the hanger it helped but  chatter   was still  there enough  it bugged me ! problem solved  brakes smooth as heellll now`no chatter what so ever . whats the love of Cantis any how in Xcross ? yeah the mud thing !whatever  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7745" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T23:24:06.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17002" CreationDate="2013-08-08T23:42:06.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traffic, weather, and geography would make a world of difference. On a dry day at 68°F, 10 miles would be great. If you have to take several pedestrian bridges to cross major arteries in hot, humid weather, even 1 mile could wear on you. I do 1.55 miles with pretty-much no traffic (crossing one semi-major road to get to work), but this Florida weather does makes it easier for me to make excuses during the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until recently, I was commuting by car about 53 miles to work one-way. I once considered doing the commute by bicycle on a Friday, getting up extremely early in the morning and coming home just-about dead. (We have a shower at work.) If you already have this job, maybe a one-day tryout would be the way to go, or you could try simulating your commute on a weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not knowing your other factors, I would guess 5 miles would be no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7744" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T23:42:06.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-09T00:22:08.780" Score="2" ViewCount="5097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Exage 300 lx crank 48,38,28 Crankset. It is also Biopace. I would like to replace it since it is worn out. What current model from Shimano is a suitable replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7746" LastEditorUserId="8918" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T12:08:30.703" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T22:20:55.843" Title="Crankset replacement" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17004" CreationDate="2013-08-09T03:05:55.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you by any chance inflate the tire right before your ride? Sounds like a delayed-reaction blowout. (If so, I wince in sympathy -- same thing happened to me a couple of weeks ago.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a longish rip in the inner tube rather than a small hole or pair of holes, that's likely a blowout from overinflation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T03:05:55.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16376" CreationDate="2013-08-09T11:58:31.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the gun world, companies will coat the reciprocating parts (mainly the bolt) with nickel-boron to reduce friction, going so far as to claim that you don't need lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T11:58:31.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17039" CreationDate="2013-08-09T12:53:16.233" Score="7" ViewCount="26803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently switched from a hybrid with straight bars to a touring bike with conventional drop bars. My commute is just over 5km, and my palms have been getting very sore just below my thumb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that my saddle is angled too far forward and I'm resting too much of my weight on my hands. Is there anything else I should try adjusting? Are my hands still getting used to the new more aggressive riding position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other tips for someone getting used to drop bars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I am 6'3&quot; and the bike's frame is 60cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7636" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T15:15:14.407" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T14:06:56.410" Title="Tips to Alleviate Hand Soreness" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17035" CreationDate="2013-08-09T13:04:02.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How far is you saddle tilted forward? A good rule of thumb is that the saddle's upper deck should be more or less level. If you have a very short frame, you might even try to tilt the saddle's nose slightly upward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also just be that your lower back musculature is not (yet) strong enough to hold (enough of) your weight, now that you seem to ride more bent over. This could also lead to more load on the hands and shoulders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T13:04:02.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17035" CreationDate="2013-08-09T14:14:24.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solutions many people try for hand soreness include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Padded gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Padded bar tape/gel inserts under the bar tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raising the bars, either by moving the stem up if you have spacers above it, flipping over an angled stem or getting a new stem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tilting the saddle backwards so that the hands aren't having push on the bars to counter you sliding forwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting a professional bike fit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T14:14:24.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17001" CreationDate="2013-08-09T14:37:07.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joe Friel&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/amVTS8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cyclist's Training Bible&lt;/a&gt;: it covers in detail all aspects of training for a cyclist, including strength training. His advice generally goes counter to the other two answers given so far. He lists specific exercises along with a strength program in the book (chapter 12), but the general principles are few and can be given here verbatim:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 1: Focus on prime movers.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Prime movers are the big muscle groups that do the major work on the bike. Cycling's prime movers are the quadriceps, hamstrings, and gluteals. While having&#xA;well-developed deltoids may look nice, they're only good for lifting your bike -- not a common movement in road racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 2: Prevent muscle imbalances.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Some of the injuries common to riders result from an imbalance between muscles that must work in harmony to produce a movement. For example, if the lateral quadriceps on the outside of the thigh is overly developed relative to the medial quadriceps above and inside the knee, a knee injury is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 3: Use multi-joint exercises whenever possible.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Biceps curls are a single-joint exercise, involving only the elbow joint. This is the type of muscle-isolation exercise bodybuilders do. Squats, a basic cycling exercise, include three joints—the hip, knee, and ankle. This comes closer to simulating the dynamic movement patterns of the sport of cycling and also reduces time in the gym.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 4: Mimic the positions and movements of cycling as closely as possible.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Position your hands and feet when lifting weights so they are in similar positions to when you are on the bike. On a leg-press sled, for example, the feet should be placed about the same width as the pedals. You don't ride with your feet spread 18 inches (45 cm) and your toes turned out at 45 degrees. Another example: When holding the bar for seated rows, position your hands as as you would on handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 5: Always include the &quot;core&quot;—abdominals and lower back.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The forces applied by your arms and legs must pass through the core of your body.&#xA;If it is weak, much of the force is dissipated and lost. As you climb or during a sprint, it takes a strong core to transfer more of the force generated by pulling against the handlebars to the pedals. Weak abdominal and back muscles make for wimpy climbing and sprinting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7675" LastEditorUserId="7675" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T14:47:03.287" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T14:47:03.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17035" CreationDate="2013-08-09T15:32:24.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In my experience, the pain is caused mainly due to shoving the soft part of palm(between thumb and index/fore finger) on to the brake hoods. Try resting your 'karate chopping' part of your hand on the bars when reaching the brake-hoods. My pain was significantly reduced in doing so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think getting a professional bike fit is a good investment if you are considering riding your cycle on a daily basis. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The saddle being set up too high may also cause the rider to exert more pressure on the hands. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using padded gloved while riding reduces the affects of road vibration and hence alleviate some of this pain. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T15:32:24.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17035" CreationDate="2013-08-09T19:56:42.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once ran through some mathematical calculations, taking into consideration body weight, blood pressure, the area of the hand in contact with the handlebar, etc.  The net (close as I recall) is that, if you are supporting most of your upper body weight with your hands (vs back) and you weight much more than about 150 pounds then the pressure on the hands will inevitably cut off blood circulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Padded gloves or bars only slightly increase the size of contact area and thus only slightly raise the amount of weight that can be supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically it's necessary to somehow vary the contact area regularly, so that bloodflow is not deprived of any area of the hand for too long (more than maybe 5-10 minutes).  With drop bars you have a number of possible hand positions, so varying position is not too hard so long as you remember.  (One tends to forget when one gets tired, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also once had a pair of gloves that had a pad in them made of ribbed rubber that circumvented this problem nicely.  The ribbing meant that blood could flow between the ribs so that even slight changes in hand position would keep the blood flowing (and possibly the ribbing served to &quot;pump&quot; the blood as well).  Unfortunately the gloves wore out and I never found another pair (gel gloves came into vogue and pushed out any other options).  I then experimented with placing a ribbed surface on the bar and found this so effective that I could ride for hours without gloves, but I kinda stopped long touring and so never pursued it more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T19:56:42.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-09T20:20:54.760" Score="5" ViewCount="11318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older Cannondale that I love. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an F600 comp (the special edition one in pumpkin orange), with a DD50 front shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the DD50 is WORN as all heck. Even when locked out, it has &quot;give&quot; to it and makes noises that just worry me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride the bike every day and the worn shock is not a deal breaker - but it sure is annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I read, getting an old (1996?) Headshok serviced is next to impossible - and quite expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking at options and suggestions. Here are a couple options I've come up with so far : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a headset adapter and use a 1 1/8&quot; rigid fork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a headset adapter and find a cheap 1 1/8&quot; suspension fork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've found a cheap ($100) RST Deuce fork on eBay (1.5&quot;)...that seems like it would be pretty much a bolt-on deal. Other than the fact that it I think the axle would be too large to fit my existing front hub.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys/gals think? What would you recommend? What are the pros and cons of each option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters - this is my daily commuter/fun bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7753" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-08-11T03:26:25.380" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T21:27:59.047" Title="Upgrade/Replacement options for Cannondale Headshok DD50?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16946" CreationDate="2013-08-10T08:21:00.697" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be a widely-used, but unofficial way of communicating that the bike is broken and should not be ridden. See the Wired article that documents this trend: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2013/06/citi-bike/&quot;&gt;Courteous Citi Bike Riders Are Alerting Others to Broken Rides&lt;/a&gt;&quot; by Christina Boddington.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on Twitter, you can find &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/search?q=#citibike%20seat%20backwards&amp;amp;src=typd&quot;&gt;numerous examples&lt;/a&gt; (many of which were cited in the Wired post).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6947" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T08:21:00.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16665" CreationDate="2013-08-10T08:32:14.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gearing is a function of the ratio between the chain rings on the front and your cassette on the rear wheel. Check out WTHarper's link to Sheldon Brown's gear calculator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I have an old Motobecane with similar gearing. Trying bikes with a slightly different gear ratio didn't seem to make enough of a difference on extreme hills (like in San Francisco) to significantly improve my ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6947" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T08:32:14.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17068" CreationDate="2013-08-10T09:26:16.847" Score="5" ViewCount="1026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a Kona Tanuki 2012 bike that sports a Kona/Fastrax AF2 Rear Shock. Sometimes while on the road I miss bunnyhopping over things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it wise to lockout the Kona/Fastrax AF2 Rear Shock and bunnyhop like i just don't care? :)&#xA;If i over do it, something is going to break?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7755" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T14:41:46.363" Title="Is it OK to bunnyhop on a Kona/Fastrax AF2 while in Lockout Mode?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-10T13:58:03.780" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Samsung S Advance smartphone, and I want to mount it on my racing bike. The only bike mounts I can find are either iphone mounts, or a few universal bike mounts, but these are all too small to fit on a racing bike's handlebars or stem. (appr. 4cm in diameter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a good-weather biker, so I don't need a water-proof case or bag, just a mount, and preferably as small as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried strapping my phone to the stem with elastic straps, which worked, but I'm afraid the vibrations will damage the phone, or that it might fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips are appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7756" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T13:58:03.780" Title="Smartphone racing bike mount" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;smartphone-mount&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-08-11T03:24:06.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17035" CreationDate="2013-08-10T14:06:56.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tighten your core; this will take most of the weight off the hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more aggressive position requires you to use more of your body. If you don't engage your core, your hands will adapt, but you won't be getting the most out of the position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that engaging the core will also make for a safer ride. You will have better control of the brakes as your hands will have more strength (and feeling) for the brakes and the shifters while at the same time your lower body will be more connected allowing you to control the bike much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something that you will have to think about as you ride for the first week or so, but will become natural quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also note that the &quot;equipment&quot; suggestions, while they may offer a bit of relief, generally only extend the problem. The exception is bike fit which is critical, if you haven't had a good bike fit, I'd recommend getting one from a Physical Therapist that specializes in bike fits. If &quot;BikeFit&quot; is available in your area, they are very good as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T14:06:56.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-10T23:17:07.953" Score="1" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just been adjusting the spring pressure on my&#xA;Rock Shox SID XX fork and then adjusted my Manitou Minute Expert because I had the pump out. The SID has the solo air spring and needed 115psi and the Minute has the ACT spring and only needed 20psi. Whats the difference between high and low pressure systems and what is the benefits of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T20:18:46.997" Title="Difference between high and low pressure air springs?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17073" CreationDate="2013-08-11T10:02:11.747" Score="14" ViewCount="21426" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having some suspension travel is always nice, but what disadvantages are there for the bikes handling as the travel increases? This question applies to both to full and front suspension bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T15:35:25.907" Title="What are the disadvantages of more suspension travel?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;handling&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17050" CreationDate="2013-08-11T11:22:51.403" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;disadvantages :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more weight (more material, more oil)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more energy required in order to pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bike is less snappier because it &quot;eats&quot; some of the terrain, so dirt jumping tricks (e.g 360s, backflips, frontflips) are harder than on bikes with less suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some people believe that more suspension is not appropriate when learning to ride MTB and technical trails because the bike is more forgiving so it helps the rider a lot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-08-11T11:22:51.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17057" CreationDate="2013-08-11T13:48:17.733" Score="10" ViewCount="22750" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trade offs for 26&quot; through to 29&quot; with respect to rolling resistance, contact patch, obstacle rollover, etc... have been well discussed. However, it occurs to me that as the rear wheel gets larger the clearance eventually requires the chain stay length to increase to accommodate the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does a chainstay length affect a mountain bike performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T14:27:26.337" Title="How does a chainstay length affect a mountain bike performance? (wrt: 26&quot;, 650B, 29r)" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17053" CreationDate="2013-08-11T14:01:19.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;benefits of short chainstay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very easy to manual/wheelie&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very easy to corner (just by &quot;thinking&quot;) with minimal body movement and without turning the bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;benefits of long chainstay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stability on high speeds (due to longer wheelbase)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;better/easier climbing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-08-11T14:01:19.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17050" CreationDate="2013-08-11T16:05:09.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding how increased suspension adversely effects handling.&#xA;The first consideration is that to accommodate the increased travel you must make the bike taller so that the pedal/chainrings don't hit the ground as you utilize the increased travel. This results in higher center of gravity and the accompanying adverse handling changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second; assuming there is an optimal suspension travel for the type of riding you are doing and you are asking, what are likly to be the advers handling effects of increasing travel? You also need to make the assumption that you will attempt to tune the suspension so that is used. Effects; Excessive loss of power to the suspension, sluggish dampened handling, difficult to tune and setup, excessive movement over terrain which can decrease stability when cornering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not really an easy question to answer. To some extent you just keep getting more of the beneficial characteristics of suspension until them become detriments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7764" LastActivityDate="2013-08-11T16:05:09.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17053" CreationDate="2013-08-11T19:21:27.393" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;All else being equal, longer chainstays equate to a longer wheelbase, and the rear wheel trailing further behind you. You are correct in your assertion that as wheel size increases so too does chainstay length, though many manufacturers have put considerable effort into minimizing this and as such the increased chainstay length is not directly proportional to increased wheel radius. For example, a 26&quot; and 29&quot; version of the same bike model are unlikely to have an inch and a half discrepancy in chainstay length. That said, there are tradeoffs to be had in chainstay length differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an analogy, think of a drag strip or hill climbing motorcycle vs a standard sport or dirt bike. The first two examples have very elongated swingarms that put the rear tire well behind the rider and dramatically increase the wheelbase. Those long swingarms are great for preventing the bike from looping out and maintaining straight line stability, but neither can turn or corner like the latter standard motorcycle examples. That is a very exaggerated example, but the same principles apply to chainstay length differences on bicycles. Again, all else being equal, longer chainstays are going to be more stable at speed and typically provide better climbing traction, but they will cause the bike to not handle as sharply and to no turn as quickly- that much is just basic physics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that chainstay length and wheelbase are just two factors in a multitude that determine how a bike will handle. Also keep in mind that just because you have a bike with slightly longer chainstays doesn't mean you can't rail corners or navigate switchbacks, and just because you have shorter chainstays doesn't mean you can't bomb descents- much of this comes down to technique, and you'll alter your technique to accommodate for any differences in your bike's handling characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-11T19:21:27.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17049" CreationDate="2013-08-11T19:52:47.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Daniel's comment, there is no real benefit/detriment to one vs the other, but you are going to find that rear shocks are typically higher pressure for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rear shock pistons are typically smaller in diameter and therefore require more pounds per square inch (PSI) to push back against load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front shocks (ie your fork) are acting directly against the weight you're loading them with. For example, if when loaded the front wheel is supporting 50lbs, then the fork just needs to push back against 50lbs (minus the weight of the stanchions, front wheel, and front brake if you want to get technical about it). With many rear suspension designs, the linkage that hooks the shock ip to the rear triangle acts like a fulcrum, with the shock being on the short end of pivot, and thus it's not a 1:1 ratio of weight that the rear wheel is supporting vs the pressure with which the rear shock has to push back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;finally, weight distribution across a bike of the type in question is not 50/50 front and rear. The rear tire must support more weight when not under heavy braking. Therefore the rear shock is supporting more weight and must push back harder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-11T19:52:47.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16376" CreationDate="2013-08-11T22:53:09.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drew was really the only one to hit on friction, but that's a big factor to consider for nickel plating benefits. To borrow directly from the words of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kleinplating.com/nickel.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;company that specializes in plating&lt;/a&gt;, benefits include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excellent Corrosion Protection &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear Resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricity &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tarnish Protection &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decorative Appearance &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good Diffusion Barrier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surface Hardness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magnetic Characteristics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously some of these bullets are more beneficial than others to the application of bike chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-11T22:53:09.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-12T08:43:44.887" Score="1" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wanting to know if you can use a compact crank and also use a compact cassette , I have placed both on my bike but the chain seems to be at the extreme when placing the chain in the smallest gear and then also the biggest gear.&#xA;Or is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7770" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T20:53:19.820" Title="Compact gears and chains" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-12T09:41:36.150" Score="4" ViewCount="2442" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I forgot to turn off ProPadal before quite nasty downhill ride on my Fox RP2 rear shock (riding Giant Reign 2011) - I can imagine this makes no real harm to the shock but think there can be some extra wear of rubber sealing etc? The downhill was about 1km of a very old road paved with big round sandstone rocks (about 0.5 m in diameter), I think I could have used about 75% on my suspension travel, the shock could had bumped about 300-500 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7433" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T20:18:51.793" Title="Does ProPedal on FOX RP2 rear shock wear out when on during downhill?" Tags="&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;wear&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17060" CreationDate="2013-08-12T10:33:18.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to adjust your chain length. If you just replaced your chain rings and sprockets with smaller ones, that is to be expected. Either visit your local bike shop or do it yourself. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Sheldon Brown's article on derailer adjustment&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's article&lt;/a&gt; on the subject of derailer adjustment that also covers chain length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T10:33:18.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16946" CreationDate="2013-08-12T10:56:02.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is standard practice on bike share systems that do not have a fault notification system. E.g., On Antwerp Belgium's bike share, rotating the seat is the recommended way of notifying the bike share maintenance workers and other riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7771" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T10:56:02.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17065" CreationDate="2013-08-12T12:39:28.510" Score="6" ViewCount="24570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was hoping that someone could provide me with the precise Shimano road-bike 8, 9, and 10 speed sizes for the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette Spacer Width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cog/Tooth Width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum Chain Width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7629" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T18:45:54.643" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T18:45:54.643" Title="What are the widths of Shimano 8, 9, and 10 speed cassettes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17064" CreationDate="2013-08-12T14:13:40.640" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think these may be what you're looking for. FYI, a lot of this information is available with a little searching. Depending on what exactly you are looking for, you might want to look up a document for a specific cassette as the numbers might be slightly different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spacer widths (From Shimano tech docs)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8  Spd: 3.00mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9  Spd: 2.56mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 Spd: 2.35mm (1.0mm for lower spacer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cog/Tooth Width (From Sheldon Brown)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8  Spd: 1.8mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9  Spd: 1.78mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 Spd: 1.6mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain widths (From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_chain#Width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;)*&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 speed - 7.1mm (all brands)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 speed - 6.6 to 6.8mm (all brands)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 speed - 6.2mm (Shimano, Campagnolo)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 speed(Narrow, Direction) - 5.88mm (Shimano CN-5700,CN-6700,CN-7900)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*These chain widths are the standard widths, which I assume are recommended. I wouldn't go wider, but a narrower chain will probably work as some chains are cross-compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T18:31:40.393" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T18:31:40.393" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17050" CreationDate="2013-08-12T14:33:16.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suspension isn't something that can broken down simply, but let's try. First, you're asking about two different scenarios: front suspension and full suspension. Both setups can range from as little as 80mm on a hard-tail dirt jumper to 215mm on a full downhill/freeride bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, obviously, you're not going to want to grab your downhill bike to become the world's best XC racer. Why? For one, all bikes' geometry is geared around the purpose of the bike and how it's suspension aids that. Bikes with more suspension tend to have lower BB heights and longer wheelbases to aid in keeping the rider on the ground while traveling through the rough stuff. Shorter travel bikes usually have a steeper head angle to allow for greater steering: think of the XC racer weaving through tight trees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few of the disadvantages of increasing suspension:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pedaling efficiency:&lt;/strong&gt; Ever heard of &quot;pedal bob&quot;? It's the way a bike bounces up and down as you pedal it. Generally this gets worse with more, and more forgiving, suspension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jumping&lt;/strong&gt;: When you try to jump that lip, or rock pile, you'll have to preload a bit with full suspension, not so bad with only front though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setup/Maintenance&lt;/strong&gt;: The more moving parts you have the more complex your bike becomes. This adds more things to your maintenance list and more things that need to be adjusted for you, the rider. Also, this means more parts that can break or malfunction!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight&lt;/strong&gt;: You won't find a XC bike with a big burly shock because it ways as much as a wheelset! (Maybe, depends on the wheels/shock) But the point is the big forks and shocks are just that, big, and they have weight. This can be reduced with things like air-sprung forks and titanium springs, but only so much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Response&lt;/strong&gt;: Sometimes you just don't &quot;feel&quot; the trail as much. This is more of a learning thing, but for new riders, they sometimes don't quite appreciate how gnarly that rock garden is when they blast over it with 6-8&quot; of travel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all that, there are lots of benefits to more suspension (probably should ask a separate question for that). It really comes down to the rider, the terrain, and what the rider wants to get out of it. Want a super smooth ride and don't mind pedaling? Then 6&quot; of travel could work. Want to boost every lip and root, but still manage to rip some good speed on the flats? Maybe a 4&quot; or 120mm trail bike with full suspension or hard tail is more for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T21:42:13.940" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T21:42:13.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17061" CreationDate="2013-08-12T14:38:39.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While shocks are certainly meant to be locked out and ridden, even over semi-rough terrain, there are probably some limits to the design. I'm not a fork/shock mechanic, but what I know about fluid dynamics tells me that you shouldn't do this too often!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you lock out your fork/shock it limits that compression of the fluids inside or prevents compression at all by preventing other parts from moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: The fluid isn't allowed to move through the damper. You could cause high pressure build up on a seal or damper and cause it to blow, or even rupture the canister.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: The parts are prevented from moving. The forces exerted on the locked parts could be more than they were designed for and could cause premature wear to the point of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I'm not a professional, but I wouldn't recommend riding like this regularly. Perhaps a quick email to Fox might be more helpful, as they may have actually done testing to see what happens when a rider rides the rough stuff with a locked-out shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T14:38:39.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17045" CreationDate="2013-08-12T14:41:46.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;See my answer to this question for a similar answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17061/does-propedal-on-fox-rp2-rear-shock-wear-out-when-on-during-downhill/17067#17067&quot;&gt;Does ProPedal on FOX RP2 rear shock wear out when on during downhill?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; cause damage to the shock by supplying pressure to either the oil or a part that wasn't meant to handle that much force. Now, do I think it'll break after 10 bunnyhops? Probably not, but it could cause much faster wear on the parts involved inside the shock. Also, are you bunnyhopping like a trials rider going 5 or 6 ft in the air? That's a lot more abuse than hopping 4&quot; over that pothole in the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the bottom line is no, but probably someday. But then again, that's how you'll break anything...repeated abuse!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T14:41:46.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2013-08-12T15:24:44.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally id rather have top quality aluminium than cheap entry level carbon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you choose, don't go daft with the upgrades-save your money and get a really nice carbon number in a year or two.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Entry level bikes are great when starting out. You can strip them, fit new parts by yourself, which obviously is a great thing to learn, but if you dive right in and buy an expensive bike you would be very hesitant to start working on it yourself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you join a club and keep getting dropped then its only to be expected. Turn up with an s-works with di2 dura ace however, then not only would you feel a bit of a plonker getting beat by old guys on old raleighs, but I'm sure they'd also take great pleasure from it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you choose/chose, good luck and happy cycling!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7774" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-11-27T21:22:08.857" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T21:22:08.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17060" CreationDate="2013-08-12T17:39:05.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know what a compact cassette is either, but any derailleur will have an upper limit on the size of the biggest cog (shortest gear).  Maybe you need a long cage derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7663" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T17:39:05.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15999" CreationDate="2013-08-12T17:58:33.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to items listed in previous answers, I think it would be very beneficial to bring a couple of small (9 ml) packets of Chamois cream and re-apply as needed at the rest stops. This will reduce a lot of chaffing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T17:58:33.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17050" CreationDate="2013-08-12T19:49:56.997" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this isn't explicitly part of your question, I'll go ahead and throw it in as it's one of the most important factors to consider in terms of increased suspension if you plan on pedaling your bike- the basic principle behind propelling a bike is to convert a mostly downward force (pedaling) into forward momentum (the drivetrain turning the back wheel which in turn moves you and the bike). The more suspension you add, the more difficult it becomes to transfer the energy of pedal strokes into the drivetrain. The better circles you spin the less you'll suffer from this, but the fact remains that even with clipless pedals the majority of the power input to the drivetrain is coming from your glute, quad, and calf pushing down on the pedal during the powerstroke. Extra suspension soaks this up- it's like running on a trampoline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that that's out of the way, let's talk about how additional suspension affects handling... after we briefly cover the benefits of adding suspension travel. Additional suspension will not only smooth out bigger, abrupt bumps (rocks, roots, your riding buddy that crashed in front of you, etc), but it will also smooth out more gradual terrain changes at higher speeds. Additional suspension basically allows the bike to track better and for the rider to maintain better control of the bike over rougher terrain and at speed. More suspension also helps the bike and the rider absorb bigger drops. Combined with a slacker headtube angle and longer wheelbase (all 3 tend to come as a package) you're also given a larger margin for error; mistakes that may have sent you over the bars on a cross country bike may be recoverable on a bike designed for bigger hits. These benefits come with tradeoffs, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional suspension will cause &quot;muted&quot; handling- that is that the bike won't feel as sharp or as connected to the trail. It will not turn as quickly or as precisely. This is due to a multitude of factors that come along with longer travel bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheelbase is longer because chainstays are longer. This is partially by design and partially because in order to make more room for more travel in the back, the rear wheel typically has to be moved out so it doesn't buzz the seat tube at the bottom of the suspension travel. Longer wheelbases make for bigger turning radiuses. Think of how much room it takes to turn a truck around vs a sports coup. You'll suffer the same sort of effect in tight turns. For a little more detail on how chainstay length affects bike handling, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17053/how-does-a-chainstay-length-affect-a-mountain-bike-performance-wrt-26-650b/17057#17057&quot;&gt;see my answer to another question here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A slacker headtube angle almost always goes along with more travel. There are exceptions to this rule, but as you move from cross country to trail to all mountain to downhill and freeride bikes, the front of the bike will get more and more raked out. This stabilizes the bike at higher speeds but makes the bike handle &quot;slower&quot; at lower speeds. Slacker headtubes also make for more margin for error in terms of rider input through the bars, but in trade it takes more input to make the bike actually turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight increases. Bigger hit bikes use bigger tubes to make up the frame, more rugged components, and bigger, heavier duty forks and rear shocks. This is pretty much inevitable as it improves durability and stiffness. That extra weight equates to extra inertia that you have to move around under you, and in general that slows down bike handling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More travel equals more time to change directions. One of the biggest reasons for this is that it takes a while to load all of that suspension up. You have to push against the shocks hard enough that they start push back harder than the forces of inertia in order to change direction, and this becomes especially noticeable in tight turns on long travel bikes. Other factors play into this, but suspension is the biggest one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake dive goes up as suspension goes up. If you're not familiar with brake dive, it's when the front compresses down (and for full suspension bikes the rear typically comes up), which changes the geometry of the bike. The more suspension, the more dramatic the change in geometry under braking. Modern high end forks have a multitude of adjustments to combat this (slow speed compression adjustment, threshold adjustment, etc) but there's currently no technology that will fully make up for this, and the longer the travel in the front, the worse this will be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As travel increases so does bottom bracket height which, as Vincent pointed out, raises the bike's center of gravity. Obviously this isn't a 1:1 ratio in terms of additional suspension and additional bottom bracket height, but it is pretty much unavoidable and does have an effect. As is the case with most of these points, there is typically some form of compensation for this. Some trail and all-mountain bikes come equipped with dropper seatposts (hit a lever on the bar and the seapost telescopes down) and DH/FR bikes have their seat height set much lower than a standard XC bike. Dropping seat height allows the you to drop your center of gravity, but ultimately your feet are on the pedals and that height is set, so the you will start out higher off the ground on longer travel bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you've noticed that I've talked a lot about other factors beyond purely the travel of a bike's suspension alone, but it is important to take into consideration the whole package as all of the factors mentioned here work in symphony to create the ride quality of a bike as a whole, and each factor attributes to the ride quality in its own way- both positive and negative. You can't consider suspension travel alone because you can't find a bike where all else is equal beyond travel. You can't take a cross country bike and give it 8 inches of travel and call it a downhill bike anymore than you can take an F1 car and add 3 feet of suspension to it and call it a Baja truck- Each is a purpose built platform in nearly every aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T20:59:33.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-12T20:11:27.277" Score="3" ViewCount="6600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Garmin Fit for my phone. On a long ride my phone went out of power and didn't manage to record the last of the track. I've uploaded the first part of the ride to Garmin Connect and can export the ride to gpx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is&#xA;Please help me find a online-service that allows me to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manually edit and finish my route using an editor with &quot;stick to road&quot; functionality&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the time for the new points, so I will get an average speed for the last part of the ride and the total time will be correct (I know that one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Export the result to gpx or another convertable format, to upload to Garmin Connect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5450" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T15:06:31.050" Title="Edit gps recorded track" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17074" CreationDate="2013-08-12T20:17:51.853" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sourceforge.net/projects/gpxeditor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GPX Editor&lt;/a&gt; seems like it should meet your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7776" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T20:17:51.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17061" CreationDate="2013-08-12T20:18:51.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not worry about it. I run my shocks with ProPedal on most of the time, and something else has always broken well before the rear shock gave out. You're not going to do any extra harm to the shock just because you ran it down a descent with ProPedal on. You should be more worried about bottoming the shock out or not &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridefox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/07/eng/service_intervals.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;keeping it properly serviced&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T20:18:51.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17060" CreationDate="2013-08-12T20:53:19.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably normal, but if the chain goes slack in small/small or completely taught in big/big, you may need to adjust the length of your chain accordingly. If it does both, you likely need a longer cage derailleur, but keep reading and you'll know how to check on that last case and know for certain.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Each cage length for a given derailleur is designed to take a minimum sprocket size, a maximum sprocket size, and a maximum number of teeth difference between running the bike in big chainring/big sprocket and small chainring/small sprocket known as &amp;quot;maximum capacity&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;total capacity&amp;quot;. That final number basically defines how much extra chain the derailleur cage can take up and thus how wide of a gear range you can run. For example, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimanocycling.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/105_5700/product.-code-RD-5700-SS-S.-type-.rd_road.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano 105 RD-5700 rear derailleur&lt;/a&gt; has a minimum sprocket size of 11t, a maximum sprocket size of 28t, and a total capacity of 33t. To find out whether your drivetrain is within the total capacity range of the rear derailleur that you're running, use the following formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;([teeth on largest chainring] + [teeth on largest cog of cassette]) - (teeth on smallest chainring] - [teeth on smallest cog of cassette])&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for a 50/34 crankset in combination with an 11/23 cassette, you would have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;( 50 + 23 ) - ( 34 + 11 )&lt;/code&gt; which is equivalent to &lt;code&gt;50 + 23 - 34 - 11 = 28&lt;/code&gt;. You might see different orderings of this formula, but it's simple arithmetic so the number will come out the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the number comes out to less than or equal to your derailleur's total capacity rating then you should be fine.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's worth noting that you can push this if you feel comfortable doing so, but it's likely that the gears you're supposed to stay out of anyway (the aforementioned big/big, or small/small) will become totally unusable. For this reason it's probably best that you just adhere to the manufacturer's rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T20:53:19.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17074" CreationDate="2013-08-12T21:28:44.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question. I don't know if there is a better way but I can offer a couple of suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a thread over on BikeRadar where someone is wanting to stitch two FIT files together, there's a suggestion to convert to TCX then manually merge the files using a text editor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://training.bikeradar.com/forum/longest-day-road-challenge-324/combining-separate-garmin-files-into-single-ride-152481&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://training.bikeradar.com/forum/longest-day-road-challenge-324/combining-separate-garmin-files-into-single-ride-152481&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The posts within the thread indicate that the suggested method works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your case is obviously more complicated since you only have the one FIT file to start with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you can manually create an activity to represent the last chunk of your ride. Garmin Connect supports this, although I don't know how functional it is. I do know that Garmin Connect will allow you to export your activity as a TCX, as I have done this. I can also suggest the site &lt;a href=&quot;http://rideWithGPS.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rideWithGPS&lt;/a&gt;, which is my preferred portal. RWGPS will allow you to manually create an activity (including drawing the route on a Google map, let you to enter start/total times, and then export it (as TCX History).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to register with RWGPS but I don't think you need the pay account to do anything I've suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever way you choose, by the end of this process you should have two TCX files that you can merge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In passing, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsies.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GPSies.com&lt;/a&gt; is a great site for format-to-format conversions, although in your case you'll get your resulting TCX into Garmin Connect no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I would ask is that you let us know how you get on - I've never needed to do this but I'm a big Garmin user and there may come a day when I'll want to know this myself&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T13:54:38.797" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T13:54:38.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17081" CreationDate="2013-08-12T23:38:14.710" Score="7" ViewCount="9485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am refurbishing a bike and am deciding how much to clean out the rear derailleur.  It's in pretty good shape.  But after I take off the chain, I tried spinning the jockey wheels with my fingers (after cleaning grime off the sides), and they only spin as long as I'm touching/pushing them -- they don't spin freely.  Should I be concerned enough to take apart the derailleur and clean/re-oil or re-grease the jockey wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T17:52:07.547" Title="How do I tell if jockey wheels need overhaul or replacement?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16275" CreationDate="2013-08-12T23:43:39.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not tried any of these suggestions myself.  You may want to look into a seatpost that is just a tube, and a seat clamp that, itself, clamps to the seat tube.  All these ideas depend on sourcing parts that fit your seat tube diameter, of course:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the old style &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000AO9LB0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seatpost that ends in a nub&lt;/a&gt;.  Attach your saddle to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beachbikes.net/products/Saddle-Clamp-Black-813.html?gclid=COqv_tP9-LgCFWyCQgod50AAsA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an old style saddle clamp&lt;/a&gt;.  Replace the bolt on the saddle clamp with some quick-release bolt or winged/knobbed bolt.  The saddle and clamp might separate on loosening and removal, however.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;See if a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/ritchey/stubby-scott-addict-seat-clamp-ec008998&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;removable seatpost head clamp&lt;/a&gt; would attach to a nub-ended seat tube.  Maybe you'd have to saw the end of a seat tube that fits, and find a removable seatpost head clamp that fits the correct diameter.  The advantage with this is that the head would clamp to your saddle separately from clamping to the seat tube.  Perhaps modify the clamp so that it is quick-release by adding your own QR collar or replacing a bolt.  These types seem to be related to &quot;integrated&quot; seatposts.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://clee-cycles.co.uk/esite/P1092/product&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Another one&lt;/a&gt;.  Also, search for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/#bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&amp;amp;fp=950d877744f5157c&amp;amp;q=cannondale+synapse+seatpost+clamp+&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cannondale Synapse seatpost clamp&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T21:33:52.517" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T21:33:52.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17079" CreationDate="2013-08-13T01:50:32.120" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the teeth on the jockey wheels appear to be in good shape then you probably have nothing to worry about. Many jockey wheels use bushings instead of bearings, and either way they are not going to spin for very long just because there's not much weight to them and therefore they don't carry much inertia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If there is noticeable resistance when you try to turn the jockey wheel- as in it leaves an impression of the tooth on your finger when you try to spin it- then they need service.&lt;/strong&gt; If you want to do it youself you can take the cage apart and check the bushings/bearings and replace them if needed. Servicing instructions should be available from your derailleur's respective manufacturer along with replacement part numbers. Be sure to use a very small drop of threadlocker on the threads of the bolts that hold the jockey wheels to the derailleur cage when reassembling, and be sure not to overtighten those bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't sound like this is a problem in your situation, but for completeness I'll mention that you don't want to let the jockey wheels themselves get over-worn, either. As they wear out the teeth may become narrow and pointed or short and blunted, depending on the riding conditions and the condition of the bushings/bearings. Here are a couple of extreme examples:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCsnA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;small jockey wheel pic showing wear&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5vmj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;large jockey wheel pic showing wear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T17:52:07.547" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T17:52:07.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17002" CreationDate="2013-08-13T06:31:11.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would depend on a lot of things, such as terrain, weather, traffic etc. If you are not sure, simply ride a few kilometers and you would be in a position to guess. Safety hazards increase as you get tired, it will affect your judgment and reaction speed. You can get a guess on that by doing some trial riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that is for sure is that the more you ride, the safer you will feel. Your body will adapt to cycling and you will feel less tired day-by-day, and be more confident about yourself on the streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7779" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T12:41:14.443" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T12:41:14.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-13T09:09:57.007" Score="1" ViewCount="27112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a SEKAI sprint 1000 bike which is a tiny bit big for me as I have problems reaching with my feet to the ground. The existing seat is already down to the lowest level so can't reduce the height any further.&#xA;What I am thinking is to change the wheel to a smaller size. The current size is 27 1/4&quot; (rim). Can I install smaller wheel on this bike without having replace virtually everything? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a seat available which has slightly lower seat frame so that if I replace the seat then it goes a bit lower (hope this makes sense?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7780" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T12:40:58.473" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T18:10:30.677" Title="smaller wheels on big bike to reduce height" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17083" CreationDate="2013-08-13T09:30:18.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first problem with changing the wheel size is surely the brakes. Assuming they're rim brakes, they won't be in the right place for a smaller wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, is it the distance to the ground that is an issue or the distance to the pedals? If it's the latter, then changing the wheel size won't help, however, you might get an extra 5 or 10 mm by using shorter cranks - if this is appropriate for your height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that it's probably better and not much more expensive to trade the whole bike in for one which fits you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T09:30:18.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-13T09:36:41.607" Score="1" ViewCount="1542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized Secteur 8-speed road bike with a Shimano HG850 12/25t rear cassette running on a KMX Z type narrow chain my crankset is a 52/42/30, I have done about 2,000 miles so it's probably time to change my chain so why not the cassette as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to achieve a bit more top end to stop me spinning out without to a 10 speed and having to change the shifters. I have had a look on Sheldon Brown I and have found several combinations of new rear cassette from an 11/28t, 12/25t, 12/21t to a 13/26t&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found several 8-speed cassette's with these ranges. Shimano (HyperGlide) HG-70 , HG-50 and SRAM (PowerGlide) PG830 ,PG850&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the HG-70-I is a new one on me I think it's an IG (Integrated Gear) I believe that the sprockets are thinner and closer together? Hhere is what Shimano website tells me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All current HG cassette cogs are specially profiled to be HG or IG chain compatible.&#xA;Any Shimano IG chain will work with any HG cassette. If you use a HG chain with a 7-speed IG cassette (CS-IG50 and CS-IG60) the rear derailleur adjustment becomes more critical.&#xA;One significant compatibility issue is always to avoid using a HG chain with an IG-only crank set. Why? The chain will release from the large (outer) chain rings too easily while in the larger rear cog. It may be possible that the chain drops off the outer ring without shifting the lever, when under full power.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I have been told that I might need a longer rear mech to handle larger than 25t on the cassette not that I need to go any higher than 28t as I am running a triple chain set. I am not sure if my rear mech is a medium length if it helps my rear derailleur is a Shimano RD-2300 like the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated I am sure that I can do this for about £30 (£20 cassette and £10 chain) but I want to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7775" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T20:58:42.267" Title="Upgrade my Rear Cassette from 12/25t to 11/28t" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17090" CreationDate="2013-08-13T10:18:05.453" Score="1" ViewCount="1788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this fork and the plastic slider sleeves have worn out. Can I purchase replacements. The service manual says those are among the &quot;wear-and-tear&quot; parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vrocM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T14:52:08.463" Title="Fork slider caps worn out. Replacements?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17074" CreationDate="2013-08-13T12:17:07.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can create routes in &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikemap.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikemap.net&lt;/a&gt; starting them by uploading a gpx file (exported from garmin connect) and adding the rest of required points. &#xA;Once you have the route you should be able to upload that GPX to garmin connect, to be able to specify the times for the added points you would need to update the GPX file manually, they are just plain XML files, so it would be a tedious but not difficult process, but I wouldn't bother, total time is what you are mostly going to need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2721" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T12:17:07.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17083" CreationDate="2013-08-13T13:38:31.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As many others have stated it is possible to mount smaller wheels. The issue will be mainly a cost versus return on investment. The brakes may be able to be adjusted to reach and the frame may be spread to fit the wider hubs. The google images I have seen of a SEKAI sprint 1000   appear to be an older 10 speed. It most likely is equipped with a 5 gear freewheel using a 5 speed chain. The more modern and smaller diameter 700 c and 650b size wheels will most likely use a cassette with at least a 8 gears. This means your old crank, derailleurs and chain may be incompatable with the new wheel. The 8 speed chain may be too narrow to fit on your present crank and your old chain may be too wide to fit on the cassette   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T13:38:31.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17086" CreationDate="2013-08-13T14:47:22.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to dig up a couple vendors providing replacements: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/sr-suntour-plastic-slider-sleeves-pair-id70444.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;JEJames Cycles&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixedgearfrenzy.com/sr-suntour-plastic-slider-sleeves-for-bike.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fixed Gear Frenzy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in case you're looking at doing this yourself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cjadGqpfEo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SR Suntour: How to change slider sleeves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T14:47:22.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17086" CreationDate="2013-08-13T14:52:08.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The less expensive the fork, the less likely it is that you can find replacement parts for it. The glimmer of hope here is that you found a service manual and it lists part numbers along with noting that the parts in question are consumable. A call to your LBS, Suntour, or the bike manufacturer should sort this out. I would try them in that order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T14:52:08.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17074" CreationDate="2013-08-13T15:06:31.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/&lt;/a&gt; Gps Visualizer was something that I used in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T15:06:31.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2111" CreationDate="2013-08-13T16:10:04.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are a bit pricey, but the solution my wife has used for a number of years is Eartec's Simultalk 2.4Ghz radios.  Roughly $300 for the pair.  Advantages are small, lightweight, simple and very user friendly since it's like talking on the phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage besides the cost, is that adding a 3rd rider is problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FRS/GMRS radios with VOX and a good headset that will fit under a bicycle helmet &lt;em&gt;should be&lt;/em&gt; a more cost effective solution, but I suspect you might have to try a couple of radios and headsets combinations until you get a setup that works will for VOX and bike helmets.  A radio with VOX adjustments would be highly desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7786" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T16:10:04.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-13T18:35:13.683" Score="5" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to maintain my bike. There a number of tools which are very specific, which also cost a lot of money. I have an old road bike which uses a freewheel. The freewheel remover cost me something like 7$! This really seems overpriced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be nice if we had some sort of tool translation thread. Like, &quot;these are the generic tools you would use in place of each of these specific bike tools.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'm looking for replacements for the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tools used to remove the bottom bracket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cone wrench, or the necessary tools to clean the hubs. By the way, do they have adjustable versions of the cone wrench?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The necessary tools for taking apart the headset. I've never done this. Maybe it can be done with generic parts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chaintool?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;anything else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you really do need the bike specific tools for some of these. Oh well :(.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7789" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2020-05-03T10:41:39.567" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T12:33:01.260" Title="Cheap bike tools or can I just use generic hardware store tools instead?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17094" CreationDate="2013-08-13T19:56:58.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are in luck! There are tons of threads on many forums talking about this very thing. However, I'll give you a head start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use a vice-grip type wrench, but try to get something in between the wrench and the BB cup otherwise you risk damaging the exterior of the cup. I recommend ponying up the cash for a BB wrench, it's worth it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While cone wrenches are nice because of how narrow they are, you can usually get away with any type of open-ended wrench. I've used an adjustable crescent wrench to great success.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This depends on the type of the headset, as noted in the comments. However, if you're looking to just pull bearings that's not too bad and you can probably tap them out with a screw driver, tire lever, etc. To pull the cups you can make your own tool from a piece of pipe by cutting some slits and bending it out. Might not be pretty, but it works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain tools are cheap, buy one. You could try to clamp the chain and drive out the rivet with an awl or punch but you probably risk damaging the chain enough to need to replace it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Here's where some searching will net you more. Check out BikeRadar, PinkBike, mtbforums, etc. for a lot of insight into homemade tools or alternatives. That's how I found out how to make my own headset press (granted I bent all the washers, but it worked and $15 of hardware is better than a $70 press).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really comes down to your own cost/payoff evaluation. If you thought $7 for a lockring tool was expensive, you're probably not going to buy any bike specific tools. But you're also going to spend a lot more time cursing and nursing sore knuckles from having wrenches slip or tools break. Some tools will last a long time and won't need replacing (chain tool, wrenches) while some are only-if-you-want-it like a torque wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T19:56:58.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17225" CreationDate="2013-08-13T20:05:02.623" Score="1" ViewCount="2470" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is or was a company from Czech Republic that produced steel frames and forks. The name of this company is or was &lt;strong&gt;Fort&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why can’t I find anything about this company or their steel frames and forks?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where can I buy them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where are the specs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where is the companies website?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do they still exist or did they change their name?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to contact (via email) the assumed company website that can be found via search engines, but I got an error mail from &lt;code&gt;Mail Delivery System&lt;/code&gt; which states that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;edward@fortbicycles.com (ultimately generated from info@fortbicycles.com)&#xA;&quot;No Such User Here&quot;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I still hope somebody here may know which one is the real company that formerly built steel forks and frames. And how I could contact with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fortbicycles.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fortbicycles.com&lt;/a&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; a vendor in nothern America and not the manufacturer’s website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7790" LastEditorUserId="7790" LastEditDate="2013-08-19T17:13:04.567" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T13:35:06.303" Title="Fort bicycles company from Czech Republic: Where are the steel frames? Company renamed?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17083" CreationDate="2013-08-14T01:18:38.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question I would want to know is...how old are you and how tall you currently are? If you are young, like early teens, it's likely you'll be growing a few more inches, so you may not need to convert the bike wheels to a smaller size, ( that's asking for more problems with braking accuracy on the rims ), and trying to find a different seat. This may cause your riding position to be way off in the saddle to pedal height. As other posters indicated, you'll be changing parts to try and fit a bike to your body size, and spend money and time accomplishing this task. You may be able to find a bike that fits you that can be ridden for a season or two until you grow into this bike. If you are much older than early teens and have reached your growth potential, I'd consider finding a bike of the proper frame size so you can enjoy the bike rather than curse at its short comings and spend money on something you may not be happy with as far as results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T01:18:38.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17120" CreationDate="2013-08-14T08:04:34.630" Score="7" ViewCount="1775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my SPD touring shoes for about seven years. The cleats are the originals and are now quite worn and I noticed recently that one of them (not pictured) is at a rather wacky angle that can't be doing my pedalling action any good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the shoes are more or less OK, I'd like to replace the cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the cleat bolts (hex-shaped) are jammed with grit, mud, stones and whatever else I've walked on in the past 7 years. So the allen key won't go in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iScCR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SPD cleats with mud/stones/grit in the hex-bolt holes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last night I tried picking the dirt out with needle-nose pliers, chiselling it with a nail and hammer and even resorted to trying to drill the bolt out. This last attempt barely damaged the bolt, but heated it up so much the bottom of the shoe started to melt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to prevent this from happening or to fix it when it does?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T00:03:30.013" Title="How to fix/prevent blocked cleat bolts" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-14T08:08:05.203" Score="5" ViewCount="2336" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With city bikes (comfort/dutch bikes, like the one on the picture below) weight is not a priority for the design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;City bikes use narrow tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the same pressure, a narrow tire exhibits more rolling resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air drag is an order of magnitude lower than rolling resistance at speeds up to 20 km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9802/do-narrow-tires-puncture-more-frequently&quot;&gt;Thin tires puncture more often and require pumping up more often&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why do those bikes use thin tires, and not 2&amp;quot; slicks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/en7CA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-09-04T15:21:44.053" LastActivityDate="2020-09-05T17:55:59.833" Title="Why the narrow wheels on comfort bikes?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17107" CreationDate="2013-08-14T08:22:57.573" Score="6" ViewCount="6263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never ridden a road bicycle, so this question is probably silly (and a duplicate). Still:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding fast, 30km/h nominal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Few and gradual corners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No abrupt stops (i.e. no traffic lights)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the face of those assumptions, why are road cyclists concerned about the bicycle mass &lt;strong&gt;at all&lt;/strong&gt;? The large inertia of a heavy bike should be no problem and should even be providing stability and comfort. The only conceivable drawback would be higher friction in the bearings, which should be negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="756" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T09:51:04.707" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T09:43:59.970" Title="Why are roadies concerned about weight?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-14T08:57:48.317" Score="2" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes I know it is mid-August and Winter is not here yet, far from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just thinking way forward on how I will be able to do my daily 18 km commute in the Winter weather of Paris (yes, it's not a very harsh winter, but there will be some negative temperatures some ice etc,...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride on a trekking bike tranformed into a touring one (Trek FX 7.2) with skinny tires (23 mm) which I love for their reactivity when starting and their speed thanks to their low weight (I know skinny tires are debatable but that what I do and love it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to ride all winter long? I'm pretty sure I will need spiked tires for ice and snow, however little of it there is in here, but still,..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since they do those only in fat version (which completely makes sense, obv.) I will need a new set of wheels. I think I will go cheap on that part, a fully built set of 700c wheels for trekking (which will fit my 135mm axle on the rear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remaining wonderings are following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I buy 2 pair of tires? one spiked and one non-spiked? changing according to the weather? if so what would be a good choice for the non-spiked tires (the spiked ones would be Schwalbe's Marathon Winter in 700x40c, 35c or 2.00)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My mudguards are 35 mm wide. Can I keep them on with these changes? I know they will be mostly ineffective but will they leave enough clearance for the large tire?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brakes will need adjustments, does the fact that the pads will &quot;meet a new rim&quot; against which they have not been worn will reduce efficiency of braking? and can a brake cable be adjusted back and forth between several large adjustments the like of this without the need of replacement?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other thought to be had?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T20:18:00.390" Title="Forward thinking for riding through winter" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17101" CreationDate="2013-08-14T09:16:18.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would go for the equivalent Marathon non-spiked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look online for 'crud catcher' instead of mud guard - offers great tyre clearance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the winter its best to run full length inner and outer brake cables so you reduce the amount of moisture inside. Just readjust to the new rim and make sure that the pads aren't worn out. Otherwises just replace the pads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T09:16:18.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17100" CreationDate="2013-08-14T10:12:14.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heavier the bike, the more weight you have to move with your legs as only motor. Sure you can achieve 60 kph with a 18 kg bike, but as you can achieve it way faster with a 7 kg one, why bother?&#xA;And every gram weighs 1000x more in tough spots such as climbs etc,...&#xA;So without being obsessed with it (riding without your valve cap to gain half a gram, with a titan multi-tool and one tire lever only to save the weight of a second one), being weight-aware is the right way to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the weight of moving parts, and especially spinning parts such as wheels, tires and tubes is multiplied by  because of all the inertia, gyroscopic forces and everything: a 10 kg bike with 2 kg worth of wheels, tires and tubes will be faster than a 10 kg bike with 3 kg worth of wheels, tires and tubes.&#xA;I experienced it myself just by changing tires and switching from 400g per tire tires to 280g per tire tires which in only a 240g improvement (+60g on the tubes); and yet, this change allowed me to use my big chainring on a regular basis whereas I would only use it in long downhills beforehands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More arguments apply, but yeh, weight is important...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T10:12:14.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17099" CreationDate="2013-08-14T10:30:00.680" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are a couple of flaws in your knowledge that help determine the prevalence of skinny tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, narrow tires exhibit significantly &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; rolling resistance than larger volume tires. This has benefits and drawbacks, with the benefits being easier commuting due to less friction. The drawback is that there is a smaller contact patch with the ground and hence less grip, but on smooth paved roads, asphalt etc. this is not a large problem. Also, slick tires increase the grip due to more rubber contact and less grooves between knobs compared to a similar volume and diameter knobby tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aerodynamics is not a huge factor in the equation, as you pointed out, since low speeds around 20km/h are only marginally effected by air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the issue of air pressure, I think the pressure-for-pressure comparison between skinny tires and larger volume tires is a bit of a misleading statistic. Skinny tires run exceedingly high pressures - racers are all known to use upwards of 80psi and as high as 120psi! Compare this to a larger volume tire, like that on a mountain bike, and pressures of around 30psi are about the norm. MTB tires like this are often rated for much higher pressures than they will ever need, but many will take use of this in order to use a MTB tire on the road, for example (I often run 50psi on 2.1&quot; MTB tires for more efficiency on the road). Pressure ratings on tires simply refers to the uppermost limit of safe use before there develops a significant risk of tire blowouts or some other failure. However, the relationship between rolling resistance and tyre pressure is completely different for road or MTB use. On a MTB, lower pressures offer lower resistance due to their ability to deform and mould to the terrain, essentially flattening out the ground. This effect is useless on a paved road, where the surface is almost completely smooth. So on a road bike, or a city bike, higher tire pressures will correspond to a lower rolling resistance, and thus a smaller volume tire would be preferable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note is that tire pressure makes little difference to rolling resistance at high pressures (until the pressure is low enough for the tire to be deemed flat, which is always bad). Consequently, a skinny tire will have to be pumped up &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; often. Factors that make more of a difference to rolling resistance are the compounds used in tire construction, tire shape and tread patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, in my experience, punctures are not any more likely to occur on a small volume tire. If anything, they would occur less due to the decreased footprint/contact patch. The main cause of punctures are surface conditions, such as glass shards, sharp rocks, nails and other debris. These objects are equally likely to be found on any given bike, but easier to avoid with a skinnier tyre, because the gaps between hazards are relatively larger compared to the contact patch. I believe the reason for this assumption is that high pressure tires can have much more audible and noticeable punctures, and the escaping air will do more damage to the damaged tire when pumped to 120psi than 30psi. The puncture itself is no more likely to occur in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, city bikes that are optimised for paved, sealed roads are prime candidates to use skinny, almost race like tires and consequently reap the benefits they offer, as their daily use will almost never take the bikes outside of the optimum conditions for such a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastEditorUserId="7768" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T12:54:21.007" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T12:54:21.007" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17100" CreationDate="2013-08-14T10:37:42.310" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main reasons: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hills: Pushing a light bike up a hill is obviously easier than a heavier bike.  Everyone likes to brag about that HC climb he did the other day.  Without resorting to lying about actually climbing the hill, the easiest way for a cyclist to make his life easier is to carry less mass up the hill.  Nobody will say, &quot;That didn't count because you rode a 3kg bike,&quot; and you get no extra points for lugging a 40 kg dutch commuter bike to the summit. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Technical Competence: Bicycle manufacturer have tried over the years to reduce bicycle weight, to the extent that weight (or lightness) has become a proxy measurement of the manufacturer's technical competence.  Anyone can build a heavy bike, but it takes real engineering skill to build one that is light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastEditorUserId="2449" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T22:30:12.973" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T22:30:12.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17709" CreationDate="2013-08-14T10:40:44.293" Score="3" ViewCount="1081" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might have a problem with my Fox Float RP2 rear shock (Giant Reign, 150 mm of travel, bike &amp;amp; shock only 6 months old). When pumped to 200 psi, the shock has a considerably soft run and is making a hissing/sucking noise, both on about first 5-10% of its travel. The rest of shock travel seems to behave OK. What do you think is causing the problem? I read about cavitation (when air/nitrogen penetrates oil chamber) and I think that might be my case. With cavitation, do I need an immediate maintenance or can I use the shock like this for the rest of the year and do the seasonal maintenance afterwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T19:31:15.573" Title="Fox Float RP2 rear shock problem - soft run and hiss sound on first 5-10% of travel" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14817" CreationDate="2013-08-14T10:42:47.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ebay - if you can figure out the thread size, it's often the best/cheapest way for small quantities of stainless bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T10:42:47.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17006" CreationDate="2013-08-14T11:18:28.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most common reasons for this in a new BMX bike is that the riders tighten the fork bolt without loosening the stem bolts. I used to do the same thing when I first started riding and I just helped 2 other people in the past 3 weeks with the same issue. Once you understand how the fork/stem system work it makes more sense. Back in the 80s, all the BMX necks tightened from inside the forks using a wedge, when they moved to the more modern necks, people still tried to tighten the forks using the bolt that is in the same location (I did too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to tighten your neck/forks is to loosen the stem bolts (A) then get the fork bolt (B) 'sung', do not tighten hardly at all or you will lock up the headset. Move the forks back and forth to ensure that they are not too tight, not too loose, but JUST RIGHT! Then go back and tighten the stem bolts (these you can crank on if you like, but they usually recommend less than 100 lbs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b648U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T11:18:28.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17113" CreationDate="2013-08-14T11:41:28.763" Score="17" ViewCount="28994" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having spent the whole summer taking a bike apart, painting it and now in the process of building it again, I was thinking about waxing it. I want the finish to last as long as possible, after all, I've spent sooo many hours on this project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it help in anyway? Protecting the finish etc.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or could it instead harm the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T21:21:33.593" Title="Should or can I (car) wax my frame?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17004" CreationDate="2013-08-14T11:57:12.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this happen a few times. Sometimes it was due to mis-matched tire/rim max-PSI ratings (tire could handle a lot more pressure than the rim), or  a ripped sidewall. But most of the time, it was the tire not beading correctly. If this is the problem, you will usually not see any evidence of this other than a blown tube. The best way to prevent this is to pump your tire to about 15 PSI then visually inspect the tire all around the rim to make sure the bead is sitting perfectly even around the whole wheel. A low PSI, like 15, allows you to adjust the tire by hand and still keeps it from sliding around too much&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rLnnw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a small seam that should sit a few millimeters above the rim that helps you see that the tire is seated right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T11:57:12.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17111" CreationDate="2013-08-14T13:08:10.743" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using car wax on your frame could certainly help protect it over time, though storing it indoors is much more important so that all of the components are protected from the weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are bike specific products like &lt;a href=&quot;http://pedros.com/products/clean-and-lube/degreasers-andcleaners/bike-lust/&quot;&gt;Pedro's Bike Lust&lt;/a&gt; but if you don't want to go that direction you should be just fine with any auto wax. In the past I have heard of people using furniture polish as well to give the bike that just out of the shop shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to avoid the harsher products that contain aggressive abrasives like rubbing compounds, especially if you have carbon portions of your frame, as these will remove the clear-coat and can lead to damage or failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T13:08:10.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17002" CreationDate="2013-08-14T13:27:22.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not really a safety issue, but one of practicality and convenience. I commute a total of 6 miles each way, every day, rain-or-shine in a humid climate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to consider is not the bike, but your clothing and amenities at your destination. I use a backpack and carry a change of clothes and my laptop (using plastic bags for protection from rain). There is a shower at my work, but I don't use it unless I am truly soaked with sweat (only needed if I take a long &quot;detour&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even heavy rain is not a problem if you have a change of clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T13:27:22.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17098" CreationDate="2013-08-14T13:58:58.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a pipe nipple extractor or similar stripped screw extractor (Example:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plumbingsupply.com/extractors.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.plumbingsupply.com/extractors.html&lt;/a&gt;).  It is designed to grip the inside sides of a pipe using the same turning direction that will unscrew it.  It shouldn't need much depth to work and it will try to drill itself in.  You may still have to drill some of the junk out, but go slow and select a bit that is smaller than the head opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T13:58:58.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17100" CreationDate="2013-08-14T14:16:55.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But F = ma. Once the bike gets moving, you [no] longer need to keep your motor running in order to maintain speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is only true if you ignore gravity, aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance, mechanical friction, etc etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality: when you are travelling on a flat road, you are primarily slowed down by aerodynamic drag (&quot;the wind&quot;). When you are travelling up hill of a certain steepness, gravity becomes the primary source of resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gribble.org/cycling/power_v_speed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; has a nice interactive calculator for such things..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, with the gradient set to 0%, the &quot;force required to overcome gravity&quot; (F&lt;sub&gt;gravity&lt;/sub&gt;) is of course zero. Weight makes little difference, except to rolling resistance, which is dwarfed by the force required to overcome aerodynamic drag (F&lt;sub&gt;drag&lt;/sub&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, increase the gradient to, say, a reasonably steep 10%. Suddenly the F&lt;sub&gt;gravity&lt;/sub&gt; becomes the significant factor. Changes in weight make substantial difference to the power required for a given speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I start with the default numbers on that page: to climb a 5% gradient at 20km/h would require 291watts. If I reduce the bike from 8kg to 6kg, the power becomes 285watts. For comparison, I have ridden an average of 291watts for 16mins, vs 285w for 16min30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T14:16:55.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17100" CreationDate="2013-08-14T15:41:22.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roadies are concerned about weight because they believe that lighter bicycles go uphill faster for the same effort. This is obviously true (it's simple physics: the energy required to lift a mass &lt;em&gt;m&lt;/em&gt; a fixed distance against gravity is proportional to &lt;em&gt;m&lt;/em&gt;), but how much difference does it actually make in practice if you're not racing up mountains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's calculate some back-of-the-envelope numbers: to lift a 1 kg weight up a 1,000 m climb takes 10 kJ; if you climb with a (decent amateur) power output of 200 W then you'll take an extra 50 seconds to do the climb. On less hilly rides, the effect would be even smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a randomized (non-blinded, &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt;=1) trial that looked into this question in a realistic setting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;J. Groves (2010). &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bmj.com/content/341/bmj.c6801&quot;&gt;Bicycle weight and commuting time: randomised trial&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.  &lt;em&gt;BMJ&lt;/em&gt; 341:c6801.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author timed his commute from Sheffield to Chesterfield in the UK (about 22 km each way; moderately hilly; ridden at about 30 km/h), randomly choosing each day whether to ride his 9.5 kg carbon frame bicycle or his 13.5 kg steel frame bicycle. The article is open access, so I'll just quote the conclusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A lighter bicycle did not lead to a detectable difference in commuting time. Cyclists may find it more cost effective to reduce their own weight rather than to purchase a lighter bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given the assumptions of your question (moderate speeds and not too hilly), I think road cyclists do not need to worry very much about the weight of their bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="756" LastEditorUserId="756" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T16:24:55.567" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T16:24:55.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17100" CreationDate="2013-08-14T15:54:49.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two problems with your assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You appear to be assuming that the rider is on flat ground but neglected to mention that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The assumptions that the rider is traveling at high speed with few corners and stops doesn't reflect real world conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When riding hills, weight is a huge concern because of gravity, as others have mentioned. Quite simply, it's easier to move a lighter object uphill than it is to move a heavier object up the same hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When accelerating under any conditions, it takes more force to accelerate a heavier object than it would to accelerate a lighter object at the same rate. This is a huge factor because riding in the real world rarely involves cruising down a straightish road with no stops at a relatively high speed. Riders are constantly decelerating because of a hill, stoplight, or corner. Once over the hill, around the corner, or the light turns green, riders once again have to accelerate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your assumptions were correct, there are other reasons to crave a lighter bike: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lighter bike feels better underneath you. A lighter bike feels more nimble and maneuverable. Even if all the geometry is the same, it simply feels like you have more control over the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there is the smugness factor. Light bikes cost a lot of money. Anything that costs a lot of money is a status symbol. And people like owning status symbols. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T15:54:49.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17133" CreationDate="2013-08-14T17:24:40.000" Score="13" ViewCount="52809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came upon this marvelous explanation of headset types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this got me wondering. Isn't the role of the headset cups similar to that of the derauler hanged - to not waste the frame as soon as some wear-outable components ends it's life? How do frames with integrated headsets survive more than several years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nLrut.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;forums.mtbr.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2020-05-21T18:21:21.897" Title="Don't integrated headsets wear out, ruining the frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17098" CreationDate="2013-08-14T18:31:34.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar question in mind for a while. I have yet to try this, but my thought is to install new cleats, then fill the bolt holes with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shoe_Goo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shoe-goo&lt;/a&gt; or something similar to prevent the issue. It's pretty soft, so you may have to re-apply often, but it would be easier than removing destroyed bolts! I am going to try this next time I install new cleats!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-08-15T16:21:39.073" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T16:21:39.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17098" CreationDate="2013-08-14T19:54:25.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used the edge of a blunt'ish steak knife in the past and it has worked a treat. The tip fits perfectly down inside the bolt, pick out dirt and grit then return to cutlery draw for future use!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7799" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T19:54:25.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17119" CreationDate="2013-08-14T23:18:05.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Integrated headsets use sealed cartridge bearings, so extra cups are superfluous as all of the moving parts are hidden away inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T23:18:05.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17119" CreationDate="2013-08-15T01:27:13.970" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The image is wrong when it says you don't need special tools. There are special tools for both the installation and removal of integrated and internal headsets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is that they are removable and replaceable. Having one wear out doesn't ruin the usefulness of a frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T01:27:13.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17111" CreationDate="2013-08-15T01:35:26.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After your new paint has had a few months to cure, you should be able to use car polish or wax on it to protect it. I've used Turtle Wax on my bikes for years and years with no problems, but any quality polish or wax you prefer should work. I usually wipe the bike down with a soft dampened rag and then wax the frame and metal components. You could probably do the waxing during the winter months early next year and be safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T01:35:26.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17163" CreationDate="2013-08-15T07:49:09.113" Score="1" ViewCount="1475" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible by viewing a bike frame to tell roughly what the handling of the bike is going to be? This current question is about bottom bracket height in the above mentioned respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that some bikes have parallel to ground chainstay, while others have angled. Assuming 26&quot; wheels, is this angle enough to judge BB height, e.g. &quot;low&quot;, &quot;medium&quot;,&quot;high&quot;. If so, are those categories enough to provide some concrete information about the handling of the bike (e.h. &quot;a lot of clearance&quot;, &quot;aggressive turning&quot;), considering constant wheelbase and constant headtube angle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-08-15T14:31:28.483" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T17:32:23.943" Title="How to judge BB height visually and the effect on handling?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-15T08:18:15.493" Score="4" ViewCount="4993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.avenirusa.com/parts-and-accessories/pumps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avenir Air-Source One pump&lt;/a&gt; that keeps popping off while trying to inflate the tires. can someone tell me how to correctly inflate the tires, without the pump popping off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7802" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-08-15T13:18:20.227" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T04:12:13.157" Title="How to correctly use an Avenir Airsource One bicycle pump" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17127" CreationDate="2013-08-15T11:24:52.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GznZE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That appears to be a standard flip-up chuck, and it claims to be &quot;universal&quot;.  If using on a Schrader valve you just push it on and flip up the lever.  If using on a Presta valve you unscrew the knob on the Presta valve first, then push on and flip up the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some of these you need to not push the chuck quite all the way on if using on Schrader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if the tube is fully deflated, you may need to press the tire with your thumb to hold the valve in place (keep it from sliding back through the rim) as you press the chuck on, so that you can get the chuck on far enough to hold.  (My suspicion is that this is your problem -- the valve is sliding into the rim so the chuck does not get on far enough.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If need be, you can sometimes tighten the nut around the chuck opening to achieve a tighter fit (or loosen if the fit seems too tight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T11:24:52.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17142" CreationDate="2013-08-15T11:43:04.137" Score="2" ViewCount="13086" Body="&lt;p&gt;The disk brakes practically don't brake anymore. If I pull the brake lever as hard as I can, the wheel still turns if I push the bike forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? Do they need a &quot;brake in&quot; period?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: It's a mechanical brake, and the levers are properly adjusted. If I pull the brake lever, I can see the pads pressed against the rotor, but the wheel still turns slowly If I push the bike. This was not happening before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maintenance was done at a local bike service, I don't know exactly what they did to the brakes, but the rotor seems to be oiled up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7803" LastEditorUserId="7803" LastEditDate="2013-08-15T12:25:44.373" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T14:56:01.497" Title="Disk brake brakes work poorly after annual maintainance" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17129" CreationDate="2013-08-15T12:19:56.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you haven't adjusted the brakes after you carried out maintenance. You haven't described what you did, but I'm assuming you adjusted the cables from your levers to the pots? If so you probably need to pull them a bit tighter - there will be an adjustment screw at each end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also read &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/6462/2077&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; on bleeding hydraulic brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as per your update, if you have oil on the rotors, then your brakes will not grip. Follow the link Vorac provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T12:45:35.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17137" CreationDate="2013-08-15T12:22:18.397" Score="2" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Road bike with a Shimano 8 Speed Freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to go to a single speed bike, but I'd rather not use a fistfull of spacers.&#xA;Is anyone aware of a single speed freehub body that I can replace my Shimano freehub body with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, Shimano freehubs are the lose ball bearing types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7629" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T14:58:48.033" Title="Single Speed Freehub" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2013-08-15T12:44:09.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Place the wheel in the dropouts, squeeze the brake, tighten the skewer, done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7804" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T12:44:09.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17119" CreationDate="2013-08-15T13:48:46.660" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an excerpt from Chris King about headset types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is an “Integrated” headset?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is a bicycle frame, fork and bearing system designed to eliminate the humble headset cup. To integrate&#xA;  means to combine and hopefully to simplify. What has been “integrated” by the integrated headset? The bearings&#xA;  now rest inside the frame instead of inside pressed-in cups. All of this trouble and confusion is to remove two 12&#xA;  gram headset cups from the front of your bicycle. True, an integrated headset can give the bike a nice, smooth&#xA;  looking front end, but the consequences of this change to your bicycle are significant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Simply put, the performance&#xA;  and lifetime that you expect from your new bicycle will be reduced, most severely in aluminum mountain bikes. All&#xA;  bicycle frames that use integrated headsets will ultimately have substantial performance and reliability problems&#xA;  due to the inherent flaws in this design. The largest flaw is a bearing system that does not positively attach the&#xA;  bearing to the frame, leaving the bearing to “float” resulting in wear and impact damage to the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As an&#xA;  additional complication, each manufacturer seems to be doing their own thing, with no real standardization to date.&#xA;  As a result, there are multiple bearing types and sizes (some of which have been discontinued with no replacement&#xA;  options) and the frame builders and bearing makers are not all working from the same drawings. Lack of&#xA;  standardization is a bad thing for everyone. It means that you may not be able to get replacement headset bearings&#xA;  for your bike, and you&#xA;  will&#xA;  need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your question, yes, an integrated headset will eventually wear out, but that service time is dependent on riding type, style, number of hours, and quality/material of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more about all three types: &lt;a href=&quot;http://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/Int20HeadsetsExplained.pdf&quot;&gt;Integrated Headsets Explained&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T23:12:28.530" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T23:12:28.530" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17126" CreationDate="2013-08-15T13:59:48.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;BB height is something that is very important in mountain biking, as well as other disciplines. It effects where the riders center of gravity is in relation to the bike and to the ground. Generally speaking, a higher BB height will lead to a higher center of gravity making the bike harder to turn when the rider leans into the turn. A higher BB can help you clear obstacles though, especially when you consider how far down a big ring may hang from the BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging BB height visually is something you'll have to learn from experience or by putting a couple bikes next to each other. How good are you at judging a 5mm difference? If you can't then judging BB height is pretty much useless unless you're comparing a hybrid touring bike to a full downhill bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important point is that not all chainstays will be straight. What about full suspension bikes? Some of those chainstays arc up and not tell you anything about BB height. Suspension also means that as you put weight and/or pressure on the bike the BB height will lower as the suspension moves through it's travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T13:59:48.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17119" CreationDate="2013-08-15T14:44:43.610" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is true that integrated headsets can wiggle a fraction of a millimeter when properly installed, more if they're not adjusted correctly. For most bikes, the wear caused by a properly adjusted integrated headset is going to be trivial. Something else on the frame will likely fail before the bore for the cartridge bearing gets wallowed out. Keep in mind that the head tube is not the bearing race for an integrated headset- you're just dropping a cartridge bearing down into the head tube and with cartridge bearings the races are part of the package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you run your headset out of adjustment continuously you may wear some slop into an integrated headset, but running a headset too loose can cause damage to any headtube regardless of the headset it accepts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one final point for clarification, installation for an integrated headset into the headtube &lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt; require any special tools. Installation of a standard or internal headset into the headtube will require a headset press as they both use cups that must be pressed into place. Once the cups are in place replacing the bearings requires nothing more than a hex wrench to remove your stem and top cap with. Installation of a crown race will require a special tool (if you want to do it right) if it is not a split type race- split races go on with no special tools. For removal of any of the above,if it took a special tool to go on, it will take a special tool to come off. Yes, you can use a screwdriver if you don't mind gnarling up your components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T14:44:43.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17129" CreationDate="2013-08-15T14:57:31.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two possibilities as I see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) the pads haven't bedded in yet. It takes a good handful of hard stops before a new set of pads start stopping you well. Go out on the street in front of your house and speed up and pull the levers &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt; a few dozen times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)the brakes arent actually properly adjusted and the actuator arm is bottoming out. Mechanical disc brake calipers basically act like a screw to press the brake pad against the rotor. This is done by the cable being attached to an arm on the caliper that turns the &quot;screw&quot;. It is important that the cable is properly adjusted for this to work. One one side of the caliper (or both, depending on your model of brakes) there will be a knob that you can turn that will move the pad in toward the rotor independently of cable tension. Some folks adjust the cable in too far instead of using these knobs to adjust the pads. You can test this by taking your wheel out and pulling the appropriate brake lever. If the lever still stops at nearly the same point that it did when the wheel ws in, then you've found your problem and you need to take the bike back to the shop to have the brakes adjusted properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T14:57:31.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17131" CreationDate="2013-08-15T14:58:48.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Single speed freehubs have totally different spacing so you have a less dished wheel. You'll have to use spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T14:58:48.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-15T17:36:33.247" Score="0" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone knows any job or if you could advise as of what I could do to obtain a new job that involves bicycles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7805" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T18:47:46.923" Title="Where can I get a Job that involves bicycles?" Tags="&lt;advocacy&gt;&lt;advice&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-08-16T06:58:16.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17138" CreationDate="2013-08-15T18:14:59.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;dirt&quot; magazine (137/july 2013) has a small article on that. Possible jobs listed are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;working in a bike shop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pro rider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;writer (in mags, web)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;photographer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;guide (riding instructor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;industry related (designer, marketing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you'd need to find out which of the above you are best at and start contacting people, sending cvs etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T18:14:59.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17138" CreationDate="2013-08-15T18:40:01.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the list @cherouvim posted, you could also get a job as a bike messenger if you live in a large enough city and are exceptionally crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7636" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T18:40:01.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17129" CreationDate="2013-08-15T20:36:44.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the pads have oil on them they need replacing. The discs can be cleaned if done properly and carefully. If the LBS did the work, take the bike back and they should put it right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the sound of it, I would also be looking for another LBS. If they cannot service brakes and keep the oil off they are at probably sloppy - but even the best shops have the odd incident. However, as they returned the bike to you in that condition, it is dangerous, they have let poor work out the door. My future custom with them would be in serious jeopardy..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T20:36:44.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-16T00:19:47.440" Score="4" ViewCount="3882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see two kinds of portable frame pumps to carry with me on my riding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pmps that have a flexible hose that is either integral or pulled out and/or screwed on (e.g. Topeak Road Morph, or Lezyne).  The nozzle is at the end of the hose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pumps that have a nozzle that is right-angle to the pump tube, directly part of the pump itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The former are generally quite expensive, and the latter ones don't provide good leverage and are prone to bending the valve tip or coming off the valve while pumping, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems so obvious to me that there should be a simple hose of, say 8 inches long, that would have a nozzle on one end to attach to the bike tube and the other end a fake Schrader or Presta valve head that the bike pump's nozzle would attach to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have not seen them online or in stores.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This product, if it exists, would be able to provide a lot of the convenience of those fancier pumps at a fraction of the cost, not to mention it would be a generic way to upgrade existing frame pumps.  Of course, the extension should be able to handle the air pressure used for bike tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me if they do exist and, if so, where I could get one, or what they are called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T21:41:36.540" Title="Are there any generic hose extensions for frame pumps?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17145" CreationDate="2013-08-16T00:34:03.903" Score="7" ViewCount="23611" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike chain has been &quot;skipping&quot;, so I've gone through the obvious:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced the smallest cassette cog, which was showing significant wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my replacements I noticed what the real problem was. Every once in a while, rather than the chain being pulled into the valeys of the rear cog, a chain link land on the tooth, and will not roll into the cog's valley and engage. Each subsequent link of the chain will land on a tooth. When the last engaged link begins to leave the valley, all the disengaged links will be snapped back into engagement by the rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's going on here? Is my rear derailleur's tensioner spring just too old?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7629" LastEditorUserId="7629" LastEditDate="2013-08-16T13:03:52.927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T22:26:00.020" Title="Can the Tensioner Spring go Bad on a Rear Derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;skipping&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17144" CreationDate="2013-08-16T03:27:44.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tensioner spring is designed to keep the entire chain under tension, even after it passes the crank.  So, the symptom of a too-weak tensioner is slack in the chain between the crank and tensioner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the distance between chain links is not quite the same as the distance between valleys in your sprockets.  This is not unusual if you replaced a very worn chain (because the sprockets would have worn to match the old chain).  It's also not impossible that the sprockets are worn not quite enough to match the old, worn out chain, yet still worn too much to match the brand new chain.  You may need to replace the rest of the sprockets in the cassette.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T03:27:44.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-08-16T04:46:44.823" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone else has offered good advice, but let me point out one simple thing for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost no matter how hot it is or how hard I'm riding, I'm not really sweaty until I stop moving. That's because 1) I'm wearing bike clothes designed to wick moisture and evaporate it quickly, and 2) almost no matter what the weather is doing, while I'm moving I'm headed into a steady wind that quickly evaporates sweat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I stop, that steady wind stops and with it the evaporation, and all of a sudden I'm sweaty when I wasn't 10 seconds earlier.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just do three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Wear sports clothing designed to wick moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Slow down and cool down a kilometer or so before you reach work.  Cruise around in slow circles in the parking lot if you must until you can stop and not feel sweaty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Bring a change of clothing and once you've cooled down and stopped sweating, head for the bathroom and change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evaporated sweat doesn't smell.  Only old sweat that has lingered and had time to allow bacteria and fungi to grow smells.  So go ahead and sweat but just make sure you're dry when you change into your work clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T03:34:14.480" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T03:34:14.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-08-16T04:53:12.860" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;No-sweat cycling&quot; is a much talked about art that will never be perfected. Luckily, you don't have to be perfect to make riding to work in your work clothes a viable option. I do it several times a week (in NYC, over a bridge), some days finding more success staying sweat-free than others. A couple keys:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weather&lt;/strong&gt; is a big determining factor. If it's particularly muggy out, don't ride. Find another way to get to work. But for most summer days (in NYC, and I'd think in Montreal) riding in work clothes is doable. That is, as long as your commute is no longer than about 5 miles and relatively flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, no ride is perfectly flat. And &lt;strong&gt;hills&lt;/strong&gt; are where most riders work hard, get hot, and get wet - sweating is your body's attempt at wicking away heat from your core. Choose an easy gear on hills, and as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclescheme.co.uk/community/how-to/sweat-free-cycling&quot;&gt;Cyclescheme advises&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;treat each pedal stroke like a step on a flight of stairs&quot; -- a light step. This goes for the entire ride: &lt;strong&gt;go easy&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling is efficient -- about 300% more efficient than walking, according to studies cited by cycling advocate &lt;a href=&quot;http://ibikenyc.com/2009/05/02/bike-commuting-no-sweat/&quot;&gt;Ryan Rzepecki&lt;/a&gt;. That means that on a bike you can commute to work at an average speed about three-times as fast as the speed at which you would sweat on the same commute on foot. This is fuzzy math, but the main point rings true: You really can get to work efficiently on a bike without breaking a heavy sweat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, as long as you're not the type of person who breaks into a heavy sweat on a leisurely stroll. If that's the case, and maybe even if it's not: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antimonkeybutt.com/&quot;&gt;Anti Monkey Butt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1835" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T04:53:12.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17031" CreationDate="2013-08-16T07:12:29.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a Shimano replacement in the 48t/38t/28t configuration, here are a few links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003ZMDJW6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano M131&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebuys.com/drivetrain/cranks/0486732-75-48&amp;amp;utm_source=froogle&amp;amp;utm_medium=comparison-shopping&amp;amp;utm_campaign=Froogle?gclid=CPfakLW0gbkCFc57QgodHVgATQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano FC-M171&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7808" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T07:12:29.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16877" CreationDate="2013-08-16T07:16:31.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're missing a spring from your QR Skewer, you'll be fine. I only have one spring at the moment also and haven't had any issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for tightening the nut before locking the QR down, it should be tight, but not too tight so that you don't bend the QR lever. You shouldn't have to break a sweat to close the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7808" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T07:16:31.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17144" CreationDate="2013-08-16T12:27:19.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the condition of the entire drivetrain and how many miles/how much use you've put on it, it could be a couple things. As mentioned, it could be a case of worn parts not matching new parts, but I doubt that. More likely is the rear derailleur needing adjustment, as I just had a similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try adjusting the limit screws on the rear derailleur to make sure that it's shifting all the way to the center of each gear. Also check to make sure that the cable tension to the shifter is correct so that it's pulling the chain all the way over and not only half way when you shift. I can't say I've ever heard of a spring getting worn out, but I know they can either break or come loose. If that's the case you can try and repair it but you're probably better off replacing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this excellent article from BikeRadar about transimission wear as it might save you some frustration: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-transmission-wear-20788/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Workshop: Transimission Wear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or this one for rear derailleur adjustment: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool: Rear Derailler Adjustments (derailleur)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="22446" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T22:26:00.020" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T22:26:00.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17143" CreationDate="2013-08-16T12:32:43.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From some quick searching it appears that the only way to do this would be to either make your own or get a hose for a specific brand. Most of the OEM hoses look to be made for floor pump replacements, but perhaps you could cut one and replace the end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a forum thread that might get you started, the links to the pictures are dead but the ideas are sound: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?t=79612&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DIY pump head extension&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highlights of this DIY addon, claimed by its creator (&quot;Fastolfe&quot; user at bentrideronline.com):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;takes a split second to connect/disconnect to the inconveniently-placed valve on the Quest's tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lets me read the pressure easily&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;makes connecting the pump to the other side a breeze.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A couple of feet of 8 mm high-pressure gas hose&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An 8 mm three-way gas nozzle&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An 8 mm clip-on Schrader chuck&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A 0-100 PSI (or 0-10 bar, or whatever range/units you want) pressure gauge with 1/4&quot; threaded connector&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A 8 mm nozzle to 1/4&quot; female thread adapter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Anaerobic thread sealing compound&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A Schrader valve from an old tube (keep the valve core so you can use the extension as a pressure gauge, without a pump)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;6 hose clamps&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See pictures at the link (or guess) how to put it together: T-shaped tube connections, shortest to the valve, hose clamps go round the pipe, and chuck/valve/nozzles inside the &quot;T&quot; ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="25798" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T21:41:36.540" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T21:41:36.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-16T14:16:54.923" Score="6" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the process? Are there classes? Fees? Do they get paid, or is it voluntary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit based on comments:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping to get an overview of the process that wasn't based on any given country assuming that the ultimate goal was to eventually officiate at the highest levels, i.e., Olympics, classics, grand tours, etc. As these officials work internationally, there should be quite a number of similarities from between countries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T16:10:12.363" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T16:10:12.363" Title="How does one become an official for bicycle races?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17152" CreationDate="2013-08-16T14:47:57.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contact &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.britishcycling.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;British Cycling&lt;/a&gt; and ask them for information. I am sure that there will be some qualification that you will need to be an 'official', but you would also be able to get a lot of practice volunteering at smaller races. If you are a veteran racer, that would probably help, because you will have expertise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T14:47:57.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17144" CreationDate="2013-08-16T14:51:34.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your drivetrain is worn out. You may need to replace the gear changer. In the short term you can experiment with a shorter chain. Have you got the right size chain? Is your cassette 7,8,9 speed? because each takes a different size chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T14:51:34.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17143" CreationDate="2013-08-16T14:54:03.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen different lengths of hose for sale. I have a topeak mini track pump which is a combination of both the styles that you mention. I recommend it. It has been useful so far. In my experience pumps tend to wear out way to fast, and are often poorly designed for what you get for the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T14:54:03.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17129" CreationDate="2013-08-16T14:56:01.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@jm2 is the correct answer I would say. If there is oil on the pads then braking hard with them will just create heat and melt the surface of the pad, forming a shiny layer. This can be fixed by using white spirit and a little sand paper. Clean your disks with white spirit also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T14:56:01.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17152" CreationDate="2013-08-16T14:56:11.387" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably depends on your country and region. I know that in Western Pennsylvania local races and cycling associations regularly seek out volunteers to help officiate the races. For instance, here's an email to the ACA list from this March (I removed names, emails and phone numbers):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ACA is looking for USAC Officials for our Wednesday Night racing&#xA;series in 2013. XXX XXX and XXX XXX are pursuing other opportunities&#xA;this season that will keep them from officiating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please join me in thanking XXX and XXX for their faithful services&#xA;over the last several years. Their professionalism, consistency and&#xA;ability to responsibly handle most any situation were a huge asset to&#xA;the Allegheny Cycling Association. As is the case with many involved&#xA;with the ACA, it is time for others to step up and seize the&#xA;opportunity at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those of you interested, the Official's position is to essentially&#xA;run the race. There are two openings available. These are paid&#xA;positions ($40 bones a night!). The officials are in charge of the&#xA;races. Additional detail on officials responsibilities can be found&#xA;here. The commitment runs for twenty two (22) weeks starting April&#xA;10th through September 4th. It's OK to miss a night here and there as&#xA;we typically have other officials that can fill in. It's a glamorous&#xA;job that comes with a car allowance, paid vacation and unfettered&#xA;access to ACA celebrities such as XXX XXX, XXX XXX, XXX XXX. Actually,&#xA;just kidding on that sentence but I wanted to see who was still&#xA;reading. If you really want to hang out with XXX, XXX or XXX we'll&#xA;work on that once you're hired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to be considered for the Wednesday Night official&#xA;position(s), please contact me directly via email at XXX@gmail.com or&#xA;phone 412-XXX-XXXX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I would find out who runs the races in your region and inquire with them directly. And sign up for their mailing lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this particular offer you may need to be a USAC-recognized officials, but I've seen many announcements for Wardens etc that either did not require an Official's license or included training necessary to get the license. Those requirements are just a google-click away; see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacycling.org/officials/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.usacycling.org/officials/&lt;/a&gt; for fees, rulebooks and regulations, and, as an example of a training session, &lt;a href=&quot;http://acccycling.org/news/usa-cycling-officials-clinic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://acccycling.org/news/usa-cycling-officials-clinic/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T19:31:48.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17143" CreationDate="2013-08-16T15:08:39.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, yes, they do exist and are quite cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old stype frame pump, the very old style was just a stick with a straight shape. At the business end there was a threaded hole in wich you fitted the little hose. It was a arround 6 inches (15 cm) long, and had the propper head for the valve in one end, and in the other ussually had the same thread as the Dunlop Valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the only picture I could find:&#xA;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmBNX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old Style Frame Pump&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These pumps had a receptacle in the handle end, where the hose could be stored. There was a spring inside the telecopic handle, such as to dampen the hit at the end of the stroke, this also alowed you to &quot;compress&quot; the pump a little. The bike frame had a couple of &quot;spikes&quot; pointing at each other alongside some tube of the frame. So to store it you slide the hose inside the handle and inserted the pump between the spikes mentioned before, the pressure from the spring kept the pump in place. That is what you see in the picture, the longest, most shiny tube that is not being held, ia a pump stored in the green bike frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those pump hoses are still available, and they look like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mspQB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Old Style Frame Pump Hose&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are hoses threaded for Presta (Or Dunlop, it is the same threading) or Schrader. The end that attaches to the pump usually has dunlop/presta threading, so, if this end is long enough can easilly be used as an extenssion for a modern stick pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I managed to get the example picture by typing int the search term &quot;bike pump hose&quot; on eBay. There will be many different options, most are generic replacements for various types of pumps, but these small hoses usually are sold as &quot;adaptors&quot; so the word &quot;adaptor&quot; may be somewhere in the product name too. Use the reference picture to locate the type of hose you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this option is not accesible for you at a reasonable cost, all the DIY aproaches are valid, but the easiest would involve a replacement hose for(from) a cheap pump. A very easy trick for the hose to pump fitting would be to source a good valve stem from an otherwise unusable inner tube. Use the one you like the most (Schrader or presta).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T01:59:06.557" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T01:59:06.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17152" CreationDate="2013-08-16T15:14:24.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the information that you need is on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacycling.org/officials/&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for USA Cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three levels for road cycling, starting with C, then B and A. C level I believe is just a clinic that you attend, pass the post test (70% minimum IIRC) and you must be 16. To move up from C to B, there are 11 modules that must be taken and passed, and then to move to Level A, there are requirements for races attended, level of races officiated, and other age requirements. The officials manuals detail these, and are located on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.usacycling.org/news/user/story.php?id=369&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different requirements for Mountain and BMX (I believe they skip the B level), and the local contacts for Missouri (If your profile location is still correct) are located on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacycling.org/states/new/?state=MO&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as fees, etc.,  that is going to vary from race to race and with the level of the race. I know at the races that our club puts on and a majority of the races in the region, the officials are compensated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T15:14:24.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17162" CreationDate="2013-08-16T15:32:05.367" Score="1" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a Btwin Rockrider 5.1 with a baby seat, and want to attach one or two pannier rack bags. I guess I only can put it on the front wheel because of the baby seat which goes over the rear wheel, fixed to my seat tube.&#xA;At the store they say I have nothing to do, since this fork is not ready for that kind of accesories (it only has two screw holes for an eventual disk brake).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any kind of rack I can use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have any chance to put it on the rear wheel under the baby seat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7811" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T14:35:48.127" Title="Pannier rack bag for a not suitable suspension fork (Btwin Rockrider 5.1)" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17160" CreationDate="2013-08-16T16:56:21.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I am not familiar with your bike or its front fork. I would think a front pannier rack like this may work. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zefal.com/en/racks/118-raider-front.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.zefal.com/en/racks/118-raider-front.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that weight on the front fork makes the bike even easier to fall over. Please be very careful when the baby is on the back. I am not a fan of rear baby seats and would just buy a trailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7814" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T16:56:21.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17126" CreationDate="2013-08-16T17:32:23.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't a situation you're going to run into, but let's run with it. All else being equal with a given set of bikes, visually you could probably just barely tell that one bike had a higher or lower BB than the next. You'd probably need a tape measure. In general, your bike with lower bb is going to transition from turn to turn ever so slightly faster, probably an amount unperceivable to most. It's also going to have pedal strikes more often. The bike with the taller bb height is going to be just the opposite in both respects. Keep in mind that without rider weight, bb height is deceptive on any bike with suspension. Its worse with full suspension vs hardtails. Proper suspension sag is typically taken into account in geometry specs, but on the showroom floor suspension bikes will have exaggerated bb heights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's talk real world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're really only talking about a few cm of difference in bb height even in extreme case comparisons. For instance, looking at Trek's xc race hardtails and comparing them to their downhill bikes, you've got less than 6cm of bb height difference. That's not insignificant, but we're basically comparing apples to oranges at that point and looking at 2.5 inches of difference. Amongst a given category of bikes you're going to have very little variance- probably less than a centimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to keep in mind that bb height is just a small piece of the puzzle in terms of handling dynamics for a bike. There are other factors of frame geometry that I would take into consideration first, such as effective top tube length (the bike needs to fit) headtube angle (how quick will the bike initiate a turn) and wheelbase (how quick will the back of the bike follow the front of the bike). When those are equal I would start considering chainstay length, headtube length, and bottom bracket height. Those are all pretty much in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T17:32:23.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17144" CreationDate="2013-08-16T19:11:57.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you have described is a limit screw or cable tension adjustment issue. If the chain is being guided so that the plates are landing on the cog teeth instead of the rollers then you need to adjust one or the other or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The replaced sprocket may have caused it to start happening. On the other hand, is it possible that you bent your derailleur hanger? This will knock the aforementioned adjustments out of whack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T19:11:57.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17101" CreationDate="2013-08-16T20:18:00.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I rode a lot in the winter I used a cheap mountain bike with larger knobby tires. It worked great. I would recommend getting a smaller size than normal. It is much easier to balance and will hurt less when you fall, because you will fall. If you get a lot of ice I am sure studded tires are great but I never used them. If it is that icy out cars flying around out of control are the most dangerous thing and would cause me to find another way to get around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also do not forget lights. These are extremely important in winter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7814" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T20:18:00.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-08-16T21:31:34.733" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;What worked for me in an admittedly flat terrain - I used a heartrate monitor. In my spare time I calibrated it a bit - at which heartrate do I get sweaty? Then on the trip to work, I make sure that I stay about 5% below that rate. At 45, my sweat heartrate was about 110, so I stayed below 105.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My trip is 21&amp;nbsp;km in each direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7817" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-08-23T00:15:47.600" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T00:15:47.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-16T23:43:48.943" Score="1" ViewCount="725" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have sturmey archer xfdd and  xrd5. Which brake lever are suitable for these and drop handle bars. The cable is  road type with a barrel rather than a nipple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7818" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T14:07:21.380" Title="drum brakes and drop handle bars" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-16T23:48:30.617" Score="3" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the planning stages of a big US cycle trip and am doing some research into the best cycle touring blogs. I'm looking for active blogs of people or groups who are on the road and blogging along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm already aware of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vaguedirection.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Vague Direction&quot;&gt;Vague Direction&lt;/a&gt; - which is awesome - but any others that have inspiring photos / videos?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&#xA;Jonny&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7819" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T23:37:46.423" Title="Active Cycle Touring Blogs" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-08-16T23:58:55.390" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There has been some good advice here so far: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;about packing your business clothes seperately during your ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;riding before the temperature rises in the morning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using a low gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But essentially you are asking &quot;how can I prevent sweat during exercise?&quot; There is no cure for sweating since it is a natural mechanism the body excretes to cool your internal body heat down. To prevent sweating, you have to go at a pace where you are pretty much bored. If it's not hot outside and you are going &amp;lt;10mph on a low gear, then chances are you won't break a sweat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more extreme solution to experiment with is applying antiperspirant to your armpits, arms, face, and upper body. You also can also clean yourself the sweat post-ride by packing moisture wipes. I do the latter and it makes a huge difference on how I feel after getting off the two pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clothing-wise, you can minimize sweating by wearing a dry-fit shirt underneath your business shirt or change into your business setup after the ride as mentioned above. Also research shirts made from Ministry of Supply - it a online clothing website that claims to make sweat-free business shirts through some proprietary technology or whatever. I'm not endorsing them by any means though since I am not a customer, but you should definitely look into that or other alternatives to traditional materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7165" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T23:58:55.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17171" CreationDate="2013-08-17T02:10:39.590" Score="14" ViewCount="30114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the market for a new or used bike in the $1000 range and am trying to figure out whether it is worth it to buy a nicer bike with better components if they are already used and worn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For specifics the used bike i'm considering is a specialized tricross comp and it has supposedly been well taken care of and only ridden about 1500 kms. I know i like the tricross frame as i used to have one before it was stolen and the components (shimano 105s) are better than anything i would get in that price range new... But would they still be better or would i probably be replacing them soon? Or does it completely depend on the actual wear and maintenance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7821" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T23:15:21.300" Title="Buying a used higher quality bike vs a lower quality new bike" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17170" CreationDate="2013-08-17T02:59:50.373" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, bicycles have terrible resale value, which means that you can usually get a really good deal on a used bike. As for the condition of the components, one can't say without actually seeing them, but quality components should have a much longer life than 1500kms. That said, inspect for obvious signs of wear (there should be almost none), and see if you can find out why the bike is being sold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As PeterH points out, some parts do need to be replaced with greater frequency, such as brake pads and maybe even the chain and rear cassette. Also, check to see if the bike is stolen with the local police or ask the seller for their original invoice / receipt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used really is a great way to get the most bike for your buck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastEditorUserId="7724" LastEditDate="2013-08-17T11:37:27.113" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T11:37:27.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17099" CreationDate="2013-08-17T04:39:34.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pavement requires less shock absorption and less grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6646" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T04:39:34.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-08-17T04:41:37.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bring a change of clothes so you can wear shorts, etc. Get a rack for your bag so it's not against your body. But no matter what, some days, your gonna sweat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6646" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T04:41:37.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9182" CreationDate="2013-08-17T09:09:53.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy individual cassette sprockets! You don't need to buy a whole new cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know where you are, but SJS Cycles in the UK stock individual Shimano sprockets, and Rose Bikes in Germany do too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another route is to use a Marchisio sprocket. These can be made up in any combination of ratios you like. Again, you'll need to do a bit of Googling to find a stockist, but you will be able to order individual sprockets or a cassette in any combination of ratios you like. They are Shimano and Campag compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth looking at SRAM, Miche, BBB and other compatible cassettes if you can't find exactly the ratio you want in Shimano or Campag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7824" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T09:09:53.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17168" CreationDate="2013-08-17T09:34:35.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.travellingtwo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.travellingtwo.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tomsbiketrip.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tomsbiketrip.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alastairhumphreys.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.alastairhumphreys.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thatemilychappell.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thatemilychappell.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weaveoftheride.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.weaveoftheride.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although not on the road I love &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridingthespine.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ridingthespine.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few examples&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T09:34:35.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17167" CreationDate="2013-08-17T13:43:05.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can not find anything suggesting that these components require special parts, so it looks like any road bike brake lever should work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are replacing the shifter as well, then you should be sure to buy and indexed 5 speed shifter. It will be difficult to find a 5 speed brake lever / shifter combo, as most road bikes have many more gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T13:43:05.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17170" CreationDate="2013-08-17T15:10:08.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For sure get a second hand. I've got my Specialized SJ Evo for 2200$ while a new one costs about 5000$, from a guy that works in LBS with a new set of brakes, cassette &amp;amp; chain, and I can't say that I was too much in hunt after it. Just an example for how much more could you get for your money, if you choose a used one. Just be sure to check it very well. Search with a good LED light for cracks in the frame, especially around the welds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T15:10:08.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-17T18:08:12.927" Score="1" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;on a Mongoose Motivator, when I spin the pedals the wheel does not engage. I removed the chain and lubricated it but it still does not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7832" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T02:23:05.937" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T02:23:05.937" Title="wheel does not turn when pedaling on mongoose motivator" Tags="&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-08-17T18:20:18.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just picked up this from a casual search on return from a nightmare holiday in France.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a lifelong cyclist who used to ride with toeclips, straps AND shoeplates (when the old Queen was on the throne). Try getting your feet out of that combo in a hurry, you are on the bike for good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I picked up on clipless (Shimano SPD) fairly quickly and until very recently was a big fan on the lines of minor spills with or without clipless was swings and roundabouts.  Generally you come out with clipless anyway (with sensible settings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here's the thing.  My wife - who has used clipless for 12 years, even though not that confident on anything other than smooth tarmac - has had two low speed spills in a matter of four weeks, both causing injury.  The last one during a holiday in France being a bad break of the lower leg and ankle WITH dislocation (messes up the ligaments big time). She will never have the same joint again and may need a fusion (the problem compounded by the initial medical care we had, but that's another story).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cause? An instant loss of the front wheel on unexpected gravel in combination with the left leg being at the bottom of the pedal stroke and hitting the ground first/foot not releasing....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary, some back luck and combination of factors combined.  My view is no longer black and white and I may put some 2 ways or flats on my mountain bikes (although I will stick to clipless on the road).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7833" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T18:20:18.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-18T00:32:23.320" Score="5" ViewCount="8814" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized Switch Hitter I have used for several years on both Presta and Schrader valves. Recently, my wife tried to inflate her tubes (Schrader valve) and could not get the pump to function. When I tried on my Presta valves, I experienced the same odd behavior she did, namely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The handle requires too much force to depress when the chuck is on the valve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The inline gauge registers a constant zero.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The valve is letting air out. I can let air out of the tube easily by bleeding off pressure using the little release valve on the handle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the chuck is not engaged with a valve, I can pump normally. I can't keep my finger on the chuck to build up any pressure, but air is definitely coming out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to partially fix the problem by disassembling the head and reassembling it, but now the inline pressure gauge is stuck at 60 psi even if I put enough air into it to get a tire to 130 psi. Does anybody know what might cause this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7835" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2013-09-06T11:36:07.913" LastActivityDate="2017-05-26T08:50:06.967" Title="Pressure gauge on my pump stuck at one value, what is wrong?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-18T03:31:07.893" Score="6" ViewCount="17192" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I discovered that my bike's back gears are shifted two gears off constantly. So when it says I'm in 1st gear I'm actually in 3rd and when it says I'm in 2nd I'm actually in 4th. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shifter doesn't look bent or anything and I don't remember hitting it against anything. Is there some easy fix or this something for a bike shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7837" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T07:20:54.087" Title="Wrong bike gear" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17186" CreationDate="2013-08-18T04:14:18.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On your rear derailleur there are two boundaries adjustment screws marked &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;L&lt;/code&gt;. These are the high and low limit adjusters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most probably your &lt;code&gt;L&lt;/code&gt; screw is way screwed in and doesn't allow the derailleur to move to 1st and 2nd gears. You need to unscrew this until it can move there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&lt;/a&gt; for more detailed info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T04:14:18.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17186" CreationDate="2013-08-18T09:37:49.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually this sounds to me as cable tension problem. My advice would be to unscrew the &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PyBTv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;about two revolutions, a quarter at a time, and see if you reduce the shifting inaccuracy to 1 gear only. If nothing happens, stop -&gt; I was wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T09:37:49.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16714" CreationDate="2013-08-18T14:48:03.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in the end i took the bike. The equipment does not compare with what i had before so is a huge win. But i must admit that i don't feel the same like on the previous one and this is either because of the shape of the saddle and the smaller pedals, either because i can't bring the saddle more in front and i feel it should be more in front.&#xA;I can tell that riding a smaller bike is not a huge problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4919" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T14:48:03.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-18T16:40:20.067" Score="4" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have bought a used 2012 Cube CLS LTD PRO hybrid bike in a good condition . The only thing was the rear cassette a little wobbling. I asked a mechanic about this and he told that almost every bike has this problem . After riding about 300 km I noticed that the cassette is wobbling more than it had been. Today I took the rear wheel off and saw that the cassette had a tiny backlash on the wheel . Can I fix the wobble simply by tightening the cassette , or should I buy a new one ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-06-01T23:06:28.903" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T23:06:28.903" Title="Cube bike cassette wobble" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;wobble&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17186" CreationDate="2013-08-18T17:29:46.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more of a fun anecdote than a likely useful answer, but I once used a bike with a rear indexed shifter that was off by one gear. It turned out that the shift cable, which ran bare under the bottom bracket, was &lt;em&gt;caught under part of the kickstand's mounting bracket,&lt;/em&gt; which changed the length of its run by just that much (but still let it slide). When we freed it the cable had a shiny spot but no broken strands, luckily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1789" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T17:29:46.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-18T18:00:32.240" Score="2" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an experience with Fox Float RP2 tuning? I bought a used Giant Reign 2 2011 and it came with &quot;L&quot; - I guess that means &quot;low&quot; - &quot;velocity tune&quot; (earlier called compression tune). The velocity tune is supposed to correspond to the level of ProPedal. So that seems that the Reign has the smallest ProPedal setting from factory. I think I could use a greater level of ProPedal (2 or 3). I just sent the shock for an annual maintenance. Is it possible to change the velocity tune? Do you think it is a good idea. The guy from maintenance company told me it is not a good idea to change velocity tune on a particular bike because it could collide with a frame geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T20:31:15.967" Title="Fox Float RP2 shock tuning (rebound, compression/velocity, boost valve)" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17099" CreationDate="2013-08-18T20:32:22.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old comfort bikes with rim brakes had narrow(ish) tyres because that was all you could fit under the brake calliper with a mudguard. Cheap rim brakes that work well and are compatible wide tyres (ie modern V-brakes) are a relatively new invention. Tradition and aesthetics are probably the main reasons why some manufacturers continue to fit their comfort bikes with unnecessary narrow tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7842" LastEditorUserId="7842" LastEditDate="2013-08-18T20:57:18.630" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T20:57:18.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17196" CreationDate="2013-08-18T20:57:12.623" Score="1" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;my rear wheel wobbles while it spins, like in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/v410LNTDan8?t=1m42s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;I read in the comments that it could simply be a badly mounted tire. What's your advice on this, what should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6016" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T13:42:55.383" Title="Rear wheel wobbles" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17195" CreationDate="2013-08-19T00:39:57.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The video indicates the wheel is out of true. It can be a real hassle trying to true the wheel yourself if you don't have proper equipment and the experience to perform the job. I suggest a trip to the local bike shop and allow an expert to save you some frustration. It shouldn't be that expensive because your wheel isn't all that bad. At least it turns and that's better than some wheels I've seen! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-08-19T13:42:55.383" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T13:42:55.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-19T01:49:04.323" Score="2" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done some light maintenance on cheap side caliper systems and I've run into this problem on a few older bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the the brakes are applied, the pads barely move at all. I've adjusted the brakes so the pads are closer, but they still don't come far enough. They are also rather difficult to push. This only seems to occur on the rear brakes, presumably because they're used the most (at least by these bikers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to just get new (better) brake systems or is there some way to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5006" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-08-21T01:51:38.273" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T01:51:38.273" Title="When the the caliper brakes are applied, the pads barely move at all" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17186" CreationDate="2013-08-19T07:20:54.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what's happened is that your gear cable has become very badly misaligned. You're going to have to either take it to the shop to get adjusted, or figure out how to adjust it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a million articles out there to teach you to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=adjust%20rear%20derailleur&amp;amp;oq=adjust%20rear%20derailleur&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.0.0l4j69i62l2.4154j0&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adjust a rear derailleur&lt;/a&gt;. The basic steps I'd follow would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift to the lowest gear (smallest cog)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the anchor bolt shown below&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the low gear limit stop so that the chain runs quietly and is aligned on the smallest cog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the adjusting barrel &quot;most&quot; of the way, so there's still some slack to work with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the cable reasonably tight (make sure the housing isn't caught anywhere along the frame) and tighten the anchor bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you should have the indicator reading 1 when you are in the first gear... a good start!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next try changing gears and adjusting the &quot;Adjusting barrel&quot; until you're getting good clean shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally change up to the highest gear and then tighten up the high gear limit stop so that you can't accidentally get the derailleur tangled in the spokes by over shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/izVnF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T07:20:54.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-19T08:33:45.333" Score="2" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have two bikes and a year ago I went through the challenge of unscrewing a stuck BB. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12883/failing-to-unscrew-bb-what-now&quot;&gt;The solution&lt;/a&gt; was to put the tool in a vice and twist the frame around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I have an even more difficult challenge. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12450/badly-rusted-suspension-fork&quot;&gt;My cheaper bike&lt;/a&gt; is now about 5 years old and has been through dust, mud and salty snow. The BB is rattling and needs to be changed. I tried. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BB is obviously cheap, &lt;strong&gt;both cups being plastic&lt;/strong&gt;. I used the proper tool, put an elongation bar on the wrench, followed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cartridge-bearing-type-bottom-bracket-service-bbt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the correct direction for unscrewing&lt;/a&gt; ... and ruined both of my cups. The wrench just cut through the plastic teeth of the cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My BB is of the following type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LAOPM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do? I tried drying the cups apart with a soldering iron - which cut through the plastic somehow. Can I inject something inside, that will melt the cups? Can I pour spirits and set it alight, without damaging my aluminum frame and the paint around? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T14:43:36.777" Title="Yet another stuck BB. Help me save my frame!" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17197" CreationDate="2013-08-19T09:08:13.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inner break spring could also be stucked by rust. In both case, you should remove it, clean it off, then lube it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the worst case you'll have to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7847" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T09:08:13.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15693" CreationDate="2013-08-19T09:55:30.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Top swing&quot; versus &quot;bottom swing&quot; is defined by the position of the derailleur cage in relation to the clamp. There are indeed two completely different versions of direct mounts: high direct mount is for bottom swing derailleurs (since the derailleur is below the clamp), and low direct mount is for top swing. The two versions are not compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom swing is in general preferred unless there is a compelling reason to need the more compact size of a top swing; typically this is only the case on full-suspension bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not to be confused with &quot;top pull&quot; and &quot;bottom pull&quot;, which only reflects the direction of the cable entering the derailleur - from above or below. Both top pull and bottom pull (as well as dual pull which supports either) mechanisms can be found in both types of derailleur mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2013-08-19T22:13:37.920" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T22:13:37.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17961" CreationDate="2013-08-19T12:41:01.120" Score="14" ViewCount="44137" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a recent ride, my GPS stopped functioning about half way through. From other sources I have approximate times for the missing data and I know the route, so (in principle, though I'm really not sure how) I could manually create a track for the second half of the ride. But how do I combine this data with the GPS data from the first half of my ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to take two separate GPX tracks and combine them into a single one? What issues arise in &quot;syncing&quot; overall times, speeds, etc.? Are there tools that assist in reconciling them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T10:13:10.570" Title="How can I merge two GPX files into one?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17199" CreationDate="2013-08-19T14:43:36.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought about this a little more, and here is what I'd probably attempt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cup has a &quot;shoulder&quot; on the inside that retains the bearing cartridge.  Attack the shoulder somehow (break it, use your Dremel, et al) until it's possible to drive out the cartridge from the other end.  Then, with the cartridge out, is should be possible to pry the remainder of the cup out with minimal damage to the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T14:43:36.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-19T14:59:46.427" Score="2" ViewCount="5634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be heading out to Durango in a couple weeks to ride and race and I could use some suggestions for good foods/snacks to take with when riding for 3-4 hours on singletrack trails. I'll be staying in a hotel so I won't have access to a full kitchen but I could maybe make some basic stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I'm looking for two categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trail Snacks&lt;/strong&gt;: small things to just keep energy up during quick breaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Meals/Substance&lt;/strong&gt;: something I can pack to eat around halfway or after a couple hours of good riding to replace lost calories, more substantial than gels or trail mix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, for reference, I've got a medium sized hydration pack to carry stuff and nothing on the frame for storage (unless I tape it on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-08-21T12:25:42.207" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T19:44:32.333" Title="What are some good trail foods for long rides in mountainous terrain?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;travelling&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-19T16:23:37.717" Score="4" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a road bike, mainly on flat terrain.  About two years ago following a 100k ride I had major pain in the front of my knees, just above the patella. The pain did not subside, was present during the following rides,  and I have not been riding (due to a number of unrelated health issues) at all frequently or for any real distance since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the third road bike I have owned - and I have been cycling seriously for about 10 years and have previously completed a couple of century rides.  I do not ride competitively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had two professionals fit and adjust my bike for me - but this was prior to my injury. I now have little faith in their methodology:  After all, I wouldn't be injured if the fit was perfect, right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preferred course of action, to ensure I don't repeat the injury, is to make small adjustments to my bike to find a pain-free riding position:  I am currently feeling tweaks in my knees, in the same location, even though I am starting out slowly by only doing 20 to 30K rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone provide me advice on how to move forward with this? Please let me know if you need more information from me. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7850" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T13:08:34.193" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T23:42:33.057" Title="Knee Pain and Injury" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17209" CreationDate="2013-08-19T16:36:15.420" Score="6" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a race this weekend I found myself in a breakaway with another rider.  We were getting updates on the size of the gap we had opened from the race official who was on a motorcycle.  This was extremely useful but I found myself wondering if the information could be more useful if I understood the math of the timing a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for a gap of a given time, say 30 seconds, is there a good rule of thumb for how the speed of those in the breakaway relates to the speed of the chase group?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ie - If I'm riding at 25 mph and have a 30 second gap, and my speed drops to 20 mph, assuming the chase group maintains their speed (assuming they are cooperating and working together with a larger group) how long will it take the chase group to reel me back in?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good way to figure this out quickly while on the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T17:55:55.130" Title="Time Gaps and Race Strategy" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;racing-strategy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16719" CreationDate="2013-08-19T16:44:56.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now all sorted and working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As described above, the pedal crank was removed by sawing of corners/chunks etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then managed to successfully knock out the Shimano press fit BB, this was quite easy with a decent sized screwdriver and hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then fitted the new SRAM BB86.  I used a headpress tool bought off ebay for around £7 to £8 delivered.  Worked a treat - a simple threaded rod with plates and bolts.  Did one side at a time which seems to be the recommended technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New pedal crank also bought and chainset fitted and all nice and solid, no wobbling!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7493" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T16:44:56.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17207" CreationDate="2013-08-19T16:51:55.020" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rounding slightly to make the math easier (And all paces taken from the conversion machine at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coolrunning.com/engine/4/4_1/96.shtml&quot;&gt;Cool Running site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 20 mph, you are covering 100m every 11 seconds. At 25mph, you are covering 100m every 9 seconds. (And yes, I'm mixing mph and meters). So the one going faster is gaining 2 seconds every 100m, so a 30 second gap will be bridged in 1500m.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than either memorizing the differences per 100m, the only other real way to do it is be able to do the math in your head. However, the problem is that you won't always get the speed of the peloton with the time update. The best thing that I've found is to watch the mile markers or other signals on the side of the road, and if they bring the gap from 30 to 20 seconds in a mile, they're gaining 10 seconds a mile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if you can do the math in your head, and you know how much they are gaining per mile, then you can work out the speed of the peloton compared to your speed. Or, you can also calculate it against how far you have to go. If you have a 30 second gap, and they are gaining 5 seconds a mile with 10 miles to go, you're going to get caught if you can't speed up. Then you have to gauge how much you have left against what they are doing, etc etc. It gets complicated fast towards the end of a race. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2013-08-19T17:55:55.130" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T17:55:55.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17206" CreationDate="2013-08-19T17:20:47.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need to start shorter than 20-30k. That seems pretty far for someone unaccustomed to riding and with health issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fit is important but to assume you will not be injured because your fit is good is wrong. Your body needs to be ready for a 100k ride and still freak injuries could occur. Also they likely fit you for maximum power or speed rather than comfort or to protect your knees. I am not saying that their fitting method was correct either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7814" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T17:20:47.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17213" CreationDate="2013-08-19T17:32:54.117" Score="1" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will a steel headset get stuck on an aluminum frame bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will an aluminum alloy headset get stuck on a steel frame bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; asking about carbon frames, by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because I have seen some questions about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12504/aluminum-seatpost-stuck-to-a-steel-frame&quot;&gt;aluminum alloy seatposts getting stuck in steel frames&lt;/a&gt;, and I wonder if the same kind of &quot;galvanic pair&quot; issue would cause a steel / &quot;chromed steel&quot; threaded headset to get stuck into an aluminum frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would doing this make the headset impossible to replace?  Does it even matter if it is impossible to replace if the bike is not extraordinarily fancy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not worried about the  short term, but am wondering about best practices when assembling old bikes from scrap parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T17:58:50.123" Title="Do headset and frame metals need to match, or will a steel/aluminum headset get stuck on an aluminum/steel frame?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17212" CreationDate="2013-08-19T17:58:50.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seatposts have a relatively long length inside the tube, and no way to get a tool to the bottom of the post to hammer it. If you have a proper headset remover tool, I doubt a headset would ever get so stuck. (Even without the proper tool, it's unlikely to be a problem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I don't believe there's such a thing as a headset with an alloy bearing race. So if it has alloy cups, they probably have replaceable bearings that fit inside it, so the cups shouldn't ever need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T17:58:50.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2013-08-19T18:06:30.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack Height&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stack height of a headset is the vertical space taken up by a headset, and the  stem when using a threadless headset. It's the difference between the headtube length and the fork steerer length needed to be able to use that headset with that fork and headtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/fork-column-length-and-sizing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/fork-column-length-and-sizing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_st-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_st-z.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T18:06:30.440" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-08-19T18:06:30.440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17206" CreationDate="2013-08-19T21:19:23.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clipless pedals comment needs to be answered. It may be that your feet are at a bad angle compared to your knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, when my knees are pointing straight ahead, my feet stick out at 5-15 degree angles rather than straight ahead. It caused enough problems that I had to get custom Speedplay pedals in spindle lengths long enough to accommodate that splay, and not lock down the float. One thing you can do to check this is sit on a bench that is high/wide enough that you can have your knees right at the edge of the bench and let your feet dangle. See which way your feet point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also need shims under one of your cleats to adjust for leg length not being the same, your seat may be causing you to rock, or it simply may be that you jump from a 20-30k normal range up to a century, which is quite a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T21:19:23.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17206" CreationDate="2013-08-20T01:01:23.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pain at the top of the kneecap is classical patellofemoral pain syndrome -- the most common knee problem.  The most direct treatment is simple strengthening exercises for the secondary muscles supporting the knee joint so that the kneecap remains properly positioned -- such exercises can provide relief in 48 hours or less in some cases.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you should probably consult a sports medicine doc first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My personal experience has been that some sort of toe clip or clipless pedal arrangement helps this condition, vs plain pedals, though there are probably arrangements that can make it worse.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And probably the easiest way to make the condition worse is to lower your seat too low and pedal too slowly, in too high a gear.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T01:01:23.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17202" CreationDate="2013-08-20T08:39:29.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try gpsbabel (either as commandline tool or via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/&quot;&gt;gpsvisualizer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can find an explanation how to combine files at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsbabel.org/htmldoc-development/Advanced_Usage.html&quot;&gt;http://www.gpsbabel.org/htmldoc-development/Advanced_Usage.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T08:39:29.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17227" CreationDate="2013-08-20T09:11:47.083" Score="12" ViewCount="8145" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spec sheet for the Shimano Alivio FD-M430 front derailleur contains a number of points that I don't understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does &quot;Maximum capacity: 22 teeth&quot; mean?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why are &quot;Top gear teeth&quot; constrained to &quot;44/48T&quot;? Is there anything wrong with 46?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is &quot;Cable Routing: dual-pull type&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And most puzzling, what is &quot;Chain Stay Angle  63-66 / 66-69&quot; and how do I measure mine? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2019-01-16T22:10:54.667" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T12:10:00.093" Title="Selecting a front derailleur: parameters" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17228" CreationDate="2013-08-20T09:29:59.417" Score="5" ViewCount="3404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often find myself confronted by a steep and bumpy bit of hill on the trail, or one or two steps on the path, and end up with three possible results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) ride down with no trouble (usually)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B) step off the bike and walk down (often)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C) attempt to ride down and flip over my front tire when it hits the bottom/flat (only once)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that this depends on conditions, technique (as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7306/how-could-i-have-avoided-this-accident&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;), and bike (I'm tempted to blame my front shocks for my flip), but it seems like, all other things being equal, there should be a rule of thumb for this sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how steep is too steep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7859" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T01:38:14.250" Title="How to determine if a decline is too steep for safety?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17221" CreationDate="2013-08-20T09:51:55.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is the conservative answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have flipped over the handlebars also. This usually happens when, at high speed and low visibility, the front wheel hits a pit/obstacle too large to overcome (larger than it's radius).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So on steep declines I hit the brakes and ride slow, moving &lt;strong&gt;my center of gravity back i.e. directly above the rear wheel&lt;/strong&gt;, being wary of bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/complete-guide-to-downhill-mountain-biking-part-1-25183/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on downhill recommends drawing an imaginary axis through your BB and your center of gravity and keeping that line stable regardless of terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a hill is too steep to ride very slowly down, then it is too steep for me (&lt;strong&gt;as I do not trust my brakes or my competence to go full-speed down&lt;/strong&gt;), and I fall to the side (which is not a problem as I am riding at walking pace) and push down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T14:55:20.963" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T14:55:20.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-20T13:20:55.877" Score="2" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I transport my 15 Kg kid on a child-seat. I want to set a pair of panniers. Even if I could put them on a rear rack (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17160/pannier-rack-bag-for-a-not-suitable-suspension-fork-btwin-rockrider-5-1&quot;&gt;I don't know if I can&lt;/a&gt;), would it be a good idea to choose a front pannier system aiming to balance the weight? I mean to do not have almost everything in the back part of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without panniers my front wheel often takes off from the ground on slopy rocky paths. Is it worth it, knowing that I will lose some steering comfort with front panniers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7811" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T20:23:05.530" Title="Front pannier and child-seat balance" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17096" CreationDate="2013-08-20T13:35:06.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to answer my own question, as I have investigated and found some interesting facts. The vendor name for the &lt;strong&gt;Fort steel frames&lt;/strong&gt; since the &lt;strong&gt;year 2008&lt;/strong&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;Intec&lt;/strong&gt;. Search for &lt;strong&gt;Intec&lt;/strong&gt;, and you will find all the old frames. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://rad-forum.de/topics/412425&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this forum thread&lt;/a&gt; user &lt;em&gt;verreweg&lt;/em&gt; explains the differences since the &lt;em&gt;renaming&lt;/em&gt; (the manufacturer’s name is still &lt;strong&gt;Fort&lt;/strong&gt;): The new frames are &lt;em&gt;cavity sealed&lt;/em&gt;, have a chemical pre-treatment with phosphates (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphating&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;phosphated&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) and new stickers with the Intec label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7790" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T13:35:06.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2013-08-20T13:47:14.737" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might not be welcomed but Michele Ferrari has a website &lt;a href=&quot;http://53x12.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://53x12.com&lt;/a&gt;. The idea is to use smaller gear and higher cadence because using 11 cog requires tremendous amount of torque that makes it hard to pedal efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 11 speed cassette now available, tighter spacing between cogs is achievable with 11 cog. But use 12 if you want to be efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T13:47:14.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17220" CreationDate="2013-08-20T14:08:08.020" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Derailleurs, fortunately have been fairly standardized. Simple specs like these can help you determine what derailleur is best for your bike. Here's a brief overview of some of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maximum capacity&lt;/strong&gt;: The maximum number of teeth between the largest and smallest rings. eg. 48T-22T = 26T.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Top gear teeth&lt;/strong&gt;: The range available for the largest ring. Any size ring in this range will work. Even some rings outside this range may work, but not to their best potential.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cable routing&lt;/strong&gt;: Derailleurs come in multiple pull types:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Top Swing&lt;/em&gt;: The clamp is below the cage and the cage pivots above the clamp. The cable attaches from above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bottom Swing&lt;/em&gt;: The cage is below the clamp and swings from below the clamp. The cable attaches from below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dual Pull&lt;/em&gt;: Can pull from either direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain Stay Angle&lt;/strong&gt;: The chainstay angle is the angle between the chain stay and the seat tube. The derailleur must fit this angle or risk the cage hitting the chain stay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; has some good information, but if you really want to dive into all those numbers, have a chat with a mechanic at your LBS. I didn't know anything about these angles until my mechanic pointed out that my seat tube angle changed near the BB and meant I should have a bottom swing instead of the top swing I bought. It works, but doesn't provide the best shifting possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="10856" LastEditDate="2018-05-24T11:26:03.223" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T11:26:03.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17221" CreationDate="2013-08-20T14:20:43.700" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately there is no limit to what you can ride beyond your own skill. Many people say &quot;too steep&quot; is a cliff, but some riders just look at that like a drop and ride it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to evaluate whether the places you are walking are because you lack the skill to ride them, the confidence to ride them, or improper equipment. Yes, you could theoretically ride an entire downhill track on a fully rigid, carbon XC bike, but wouldn't it be a lot easier on a 8&quot; travel, full-suspension bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the steep section that flipped you over, see if you can find why you flipped. Too far forward on the bike? A big rock/root in the way? Application of too much front brake? Remedy each of these things and you might find yourself riding steeper and steeper hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do you fix it or get better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Practice!&lt;/strong&gt; Hours in the saddle is the best way to get more confidence riding these types of things. Find a smaller decline and practice shifting your weight back, feathering your brakes, and keeping your eyes scanning for obstacles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ride with someone&lt;/strong&gt; Don't underestimate the value of riding with someone better than you. Politely ask them if they could show you how to ride some of things you're struggling with and watch them do it and have them watch you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed is your friend&lt;/strong&gt; I know it seems counter intuitive but like riding over rocks/roots on flat terrain, a little speed goes a long way. Again, practice this, don't just go charging over the edge of a super sketchy hill and hope for the best (although that can be really fun).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, what type of riding do you want to do? A lot of XC trails are relatively tame in regards to steep downhills because the bikes aren't really meant for that. But if you're looking to get into freeriding or downhill you'll need to get comfortable with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T14:20:43.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-08-20T15:31:12.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Hawaii and it gets sort of humid at times. What I like to do is secure those ice pack lunch bags to the back of my backpack so it keeps my back cool during the ride.  It helps a lot since the heat from your torso seems to feel the worse when you begin sweating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7862" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T15:31:12.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2013-08-20T17:06:34.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to ask yourself is &quot;What is the max speed where I'm willing to expend energy, on a continuous basis, to maintain that speed?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's (maybe) nifty to do 60 mph down a hill, but the energy required to maintain that speed on any sort of continuous basis is astronomical.  Most people have a max sustainable speed (on the flat) somewhere between 15 and 25 mph (depending on the individual), and it makes no sense to have gears that permit you to pedal (at a semi-normal cadence) at a speed faster than your max sustainable speed.  It's more valuable to have the &quot;in-between&quot; gears than high-speed gears you will never &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; use.  At most you might want to &quot;push&quot; the high end ever so slightly to take advantage of that rare day when you have a nice tailwind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T17:06:34.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17232" CreationDate="2013-08-20T17:59:26.907" Score="2" ViewCount="2244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen several manufacturers, like challenge, offering what they call an 'Open Tubular' tire. How is this different from a standard clincher tire? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T18:19:39.703" Title="What is an 'Open Tubular' tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17231" CreationDate="2013-08-20T18:19:39.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An &quot;open tubular&quot; is basically a tubular tire with clincher beads instead of being sewn. They use the same materials as the sewups, so in theory should offer some of the same advantages as tubular tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most of the pro's of a tubular (lighter weight, less rolling resistance, tire will stay on when flat) are voided because they've turned a tubular into a clincher. Plus, there are many modern clincher tires that have just as little or even less rolling resistance than a tubular (in some specific cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T18:19:39.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-20T18:40:23.437" Score="2" ViewCount="3930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a vertical henox t3 bike which I hadn't ridden in a long time I changed gear and the derailleur bent into the wheel spokes and the derailleur is now bent and doesn't work properly. The derailleur is a shimano tourney sis index but I don't know the model. Can anyone help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7863" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T11:28:42.540" Title="How do I know the model of my Shimano Torney SIS Index Rear Derailleur, I have a Vertical Henox T3 bike?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17241" CreationDate="2013-08-20T19:45:23.817" Score="2" ViewCount="1487" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I remove the (rattling)plastic disc  - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How often should I check the limit screws on rear derailleur? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the shifter cable tension is less than optimal, would this be a possible cause to drive the chain in between the spokes and the rear cog-set?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excluding the case of debris getting stuck in drive-train; are there any other adjustments besides above two and true-ness of rear wheel that may cause the problem of getting chain between cogs and spokes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailleur in question is a Shimano Deore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Details- For mileage, I commute about 110 miles/week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastEditorUserId="7416" LastEditDate="2013-08-21T15:10:21.430" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T15:21:22.613" Title="How often should I check rear derailleur adjustments?" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17224" CreationDate="2013-08-20T20:10:57.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ridden with children about that weight on the back; there is no way I would consider adding more weight to the rear of the bike. If you worry about the effect of front panniers on steering, I can only presume you have experience riding uni-cycles if you are considering adding rear panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An option to consider would be panniers on the rear and a child seat on the cross bar. This provides many advantages over a child seat on the back, however it requires a largish bike frame - something I did not have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2014-05-24T20:23:05.530" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T20:23:05.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17224" CreationDate="2013-08-20T20:45:49.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden &quot;fully loaded&quot;, with substantial load in the front panniers.  It does affect your steering, but you get used to it after a relatively short time.  (And when you take the bags off the front the bike feels like a sports car!)  It does require a little more muscle to steer, but in a way steering is actually more stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to be careful of toe and knee clearance when loading the front.  Not generally a difficult problem, but it's bad to discover you have a clearance issue while rounding a corner at 15mph in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T20:45:49.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16275" CreationDate="2013-08-20T21:32:32.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace your hex seatbolt with a knobbed or winged bolt of the same strength and sizing specifications.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clamping knob: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RrsBd.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Clamping knob&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wing screw:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sY3lc.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Wing screw&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I happened to see these at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section8/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section8/&lt;/a&gt;, but do not know if they are up to spec. @WTHarper mentioned the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#thumb-screw-fasteners/=o5jl6s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McMaster-Carr&lt;/a&gt; site that has lots of options.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-08-21T01:57:59.540" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T01:57:59.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17224" CreationDate="2013-08-20T21:37:43.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your front wheel is lifting off the ground, then I'd suggest keeping the weight forward as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front panniers are the way to go if you can do it. As you say, it spreads the load. In fact I often feel better with panniers front and rear than with either on their own. We use &quot;low-rider&quot; front panniers on the tandem and often have our 10kg child on the back and this seems pretty comfortable and controllable, but obviously a tandem is quite different in geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also consider a bar bag if fitting panniers is tricky, but this generally provides less space and the weight &amp;amp; windage is higher up, so possibly less stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a bit more air in your tires to avoid pinch flats with the extra weight (especially the rear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T21:37:43.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16275" CreationDate="2013-08-20T21:38:12.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skip the bolt and hold the seat rail clamp to the seatpost with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locking_pliers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;locking pliers&lt;/a&gt; (aka &quot;Vise Grips&quot;).&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3FOsa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;locking pliers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T21:38:12.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17234" CreationDate="2013-08-20T21:50:28.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe these would move without external force but worth checking at every service.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, the upper limit screw should prevent this from happening. Cable tension can be adjusted (most shifters and some RD have barrel adjusters) to optimize shifting between gears. Outer limits are fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3 I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;derailleur alignment, is the hanger bent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is the wheel in the dropout properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is the derailleur cage bent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T21:50:28.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17234" CreationDate="2013-08-20T21:54:17.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's really up to you how often to check your adjustments, but I'd say it's not an &quot;every ride&quot; kind of check, unless you're giving your drivetrain a workout! If there's any damage to the derailleur, hanger, or rear wheel, you may want to start there as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To specifically address your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should check your limits any time you have a drivetrain issue. That could be poor shifting, dropped chain, or inability to shift.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifter cable tension should only affect how easily/quickly the derailleur moves. However, there could be a case where too much tension could cause the derailleur to move through the last shift enough to stress past the limit screw, but I think this is unlikely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear wheel could be out of dish (centered from side-to-side) which might have moved the cassette further in. Readjusting the limit screws should take care of that, but you might still have shifting issues. (I had the same problem this spring)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T21:54:17.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17234" CreationDate="2013-08-21T00:21:47.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother checking until you see a problem, like difficulty shifting onto the biggest or smallest ring/sprocket, or the opposite: shifting off it. When this happens, it is not a &quot;show stopper&quot; problem. You can probably complete your ride, or even just pull over and make the adjustment right there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is usually a warning that the derailleur is going out of calibration. Before it becomes very difficult to shift to a gear, it first becomes slightly difficult and it progresses from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding point 3, perhaps you're missing the plastic guard ring which goes between the casette/freehub and the spokes. Which is not to say that this is what prevents slippage, but it does prevent contact between chain and spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, one potential problem affecting the front derailleur, or at least some types, is that the entire assembly can rotate around the frame post to which it is clamped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front and rear derailleurs interact. Notice how it is easier to shift onto the leftmost sprocket when you're on the leftmost ring. So it cannot be ruled out that some rear difficulty is actually connected to a front problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last piece of advice, and that is to install a rear &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=derailleur+protector&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;derailleur protector&lt;/a&gt;, if you don't already have one. This part which installs on your wheel axle, held in place by the wheel lug nut. It extends a curved steel bar over the derailleur which guards it from being knocked around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastEditorUserId="5088" LastEditDate="2013-08-21T00:26:52.710" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T00:26:52.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17204" CreationDate="2013-08-21T00:43:06.767" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to eat anything over 3 to 4 hours of cycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible not to eat for 4 hours while being active, even intensely active, and be all right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People complete marathons in this timeframe, without taking in anything other than liquids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T00:43:06.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5175" CreationDate="2013-08-21T01:03:51.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Centering&quot; is not actually the problem, but &quot;aligment&quot;. The distance from the hub to any of the dropouts is defined by the specific dimension of the bearings, cones, spacers and locknut used in each side of the axle, none of this is changed when opening or closing a quick release skewer. The &quot;mobile&quot; parts of a skewer squeeze the frame from the outside (outer sides of the droppouts), but the inner part of the dropouts directly press against the locknut in the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, in conjunction with vertical dropouts virtually eliminates any chance of installing a rear wheel badly aligned. The only thing to worry about is to properly seat the axle in every dropout, taking it as far into the dropout as it naturally goes. This type of frame only allows to attach the axle in one position, thus as long as you do it reasonably right, the wheel will be centered and aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A frame with horizontal dropouts however pose a bit of a challenge. Again, it is not the centering of the wheel, but its aligment what is difficult. If your frame has perfectly simmetric dropouts, a good strategy is to install the wheel with the axle in the deepest part of the dropout, and adjust brakes and deraileur in this position. This way every time you have to re install the wheel, simply put it as deep as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not an alternative, a set of stopper bolts may do the trick. Alternatively you can use paint or stickers to mark aproppriate aligment marks to help you during the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case that you use disc brakes, they are a pretty reliable way of assuring the wheel is propperly positioned because they have very tight tolerances. Before removal, check that the disc is centered in the caliper and that neither pad rubs it. When you reinstal, check the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other answers state, bad wheel alignemt is a big issue with rim brakes. This makes them a good indicator too. If you have your brakes propperly tunes, the pads land in the center of the rim's braking surface, and when you release the lever, they should &quot;rise&quot; more or less the same distance from the rim, so, perform this check after attaching the wheel and most likely you'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T01:03:51.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-21T03:41:14.393" Score="2" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you change a 7 speed freewheel to a 6 speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7865" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T04:00:51.960" Title="Can you change a 7 speed freewheel to 6 speed" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17245" CreationDate="2013-08-21T04:00:51.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, yes. They use the same thread/attachment to the hub and they are almost the same width. If you have friction shifting it will work fine, but if you have indexed shifting that will obviously not work - the spacing between cogs is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/freewheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;more information here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T04:00:51.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17249" CreationDate="2013-08-21T08:00:59.697" Score="27" ViewCount="18257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been starting to commute by bike more (about 6 miles each way) and decided to upgrade from my cheap, old mountain bike to something more suitable. I just bought a used 2009 Kona Jake off Craigslist. Pretty excited about the bike -- it came with fenders, rear rack and two panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously I've just carried everything in a messenger bag or backpack when riding. Panniers are new to me. What are some tips you have for packing and riding with panniers? I'll be carrying a laptop part of the time and beyond that a book or two, a lunch, maybe some clothes and other miscellaneous bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I'm wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I don't have much on a given day, should I just use one pannier or try to distribute between two? In general, how important is it to keep them balanced?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned about heel spacing or getting on/off the bike? (In my initial short ride, it wasn't an issue)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I have more weight, how much will it change the stopping distance and the bike's balance?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the bike's in to get a tune-up so I can't recall the make of the panniers. Beyond the rack hooks, there's also a strap that runs from the middle, has a hook on the end and some velcro that attaches to the top of the bag. I can't figure out what they're for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** Edit **&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of my new (used) panniers. They're &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.detours.us/panniers/d2r-small-pannier-set.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;by D2R&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQuYH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7795" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T08:34:18.120" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T12:52:25.283" Title="Best practices for commuting with rack &amp; panniers" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17248" CreationDate="2013-08-21T08:30:00.697" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general panniers are more comfortable and efficient than carrying weight on your body. There are some things to be aware of, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety.&lt;/strong&gt; Every time you set off, make absolutely sure that all the pannier straps are done up. Apart from things falling out, the last thing you want is a loose strap getting caught in the spokes. This can wreak a wheel, and a rider!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding stopping distance, I don't think it makes much difference as the weight increases the friction between wheel and road. However, the extra weight does contribute something to heating the brake pads and rims/discs, but it's probably only an issue on long steep descents which are unusual on a commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Panniers getting in your way.&lt;/strong&gt; Yes, aim to keep your heel clear of the bags. This can be different when the bags are fully-laden as they tend to bulge further than expected. Worst-case you can pedal with your toes pointed down to avoid heel-strike, but this isn't comfortable for long. If you swing your leg over to get on and off then definitely take a bit of extra care to avoid pratfalls. Also be aware the rear of the bike is slightly wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Left-right loading.&lt;/strong&gt; Ideally it's nice to have them balanced, but unless there's more than 5kg difference between the sides, I'd say it's not really noticeable. So if all you're carrying is clothing and spare shoes, then it should be fine to take just one bag. However, if it's a stack of books consider two half-filled bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vibration and bumps.&lt;/strong&gt; In my wife's experience, laptops seem to suffer from vibration in panniers more than rucksacks/messenger bags. Hers acquired a serious soundcard issue after being bounced in a pannier back down a slightly bumpy road. I'm not talking about crashing or dropping the bag, just riding the normal bumps in British roads. Your road surface may vary. Putting sensitive kit on your body is less comfortable for you, but more protective for the kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consider waterproofing.&lt;/strong&gt; If the contents are sensitive to moisture (like the laptop), then you may want to double-bag unless you're really confident in the pannier's waterproofing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire pressure.&lt;/strong&gt; Adding weight to your bike means you'll need a slightly increased tire pressure to prevent pinch-flats, particularly for the wheel over which the weight is situated. There's another question with some more information on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2744/what-pressure-should-i-run-my-road-bike-tyres-at&quot;&gt;calculating the best tire pressure&lt;/a&gt;, but ideally it should be done per-wheel and adding panniers to the rear will make this more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strap that runs from the middle with the hook on the end may be to wrap around the lower part of the rack (and possibly back up to the pannier). The aim may be to stop the pannier from swinging out away from the bike or from jumping off when you go over a bump, but in my experience if the strap is made of elastic it doesn't prevent this. The best design to stop the panniers hopping off is a clip which fully-encloses the top horizontal bar of the rack, as is found on Ortlieb and many modern panniers. If you want more detailed advice, post some pictures when you get the panniers back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T19:40:31.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17520" CreationDate="2013-08-21T09:08:50.393" Score="2" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/off-road_tires&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe&lt;/a&gt; produces a wide range of tyres. Their &quot;Basic compound&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://screambikes.eu/en/26-tyres/1945-schwalbe-land-cruiser-26-x-190-tire.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tyres&lt;/a&gt; are twice cheaper than the same model but with &quot;Performance compound&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have user experience with the two product lines? What are the practical differences? Are the Performance line MTB tyres made of &quot;soft&quot; rubber, that provides superior grip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-08-21T09:22:15.117" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T22:08:08.600" Title="Waht is the difference between Shwalbe's Basic compound and Performance compound tyres?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17257" CreationDate="2013-08-21T09:52:59.993" Score="12" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned to ride in Toronto, where &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toronto.ca/cycling/safety/car-bike.htm&quot;&gt;behaviour such as the following is legal&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if there is not enough space to share the lane safely with another vehicle, it is legal to ride near the centre of the lane, so that drivers must wait or change lanes to overtake&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this also true in France?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked a french man (the father of a competitive cyclist) who replied something which implied, &quot;no&quot;: that cyclists should keep right at all times, and that although groups ride two-abreast, they return to single-file if a car approaches from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to double-check: is it legal, and is it at all customary or is it likely to annoy or cause aggressive driving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of when I might want to use it include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a town where the road is narrow or lined with parked cars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the country-side, going up a hill with many bends, where it wouldn't IMO be safe for an overtaking car to leave their own lane (which would tempt them to overtake me without leaving much margin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars routinely slow down behind tractors when they go up that hill; but when I was driving (a car) I was surprised to see a cyclist hugging the verge as if there was enough room for me to overtake him safely (I didn't think there was and so I didn't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is there any legally-required overtaking margin (for example, &quot;cars must leave a gap of one metre (3 feet) when overtaking a cyclist&quot;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW I understand there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikehub.co.uk/news/bike-to-work/strict-liability-too-contentious-says-transport-minister/&quot;&gt;strict liability law in France&lt;/a&gt;, which may help, nevertheless I'd like to do whatever it is I should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T11:48:16.520" Title="Is vehicular cycling legal in France?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17248" CreationDate="2013-08-21T10:12:43.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I don't have much on a given day, should I just use one pannier or try to distribute between two? In general, how important is it to keep them balanced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not heavy then it's not important, assuming it's close the wheel (so not much torque). I expect it's easier than a top-heavy back-pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I have more weight, how much will it change the stopping distance and the bike's balance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I expect that depends on how good your brakes are, and the weather (i.e. on whether your rims are wet, which reduces the effectiveness of brakes). In contrast my bike has hydraulic disk brakes, which are always more than strong enough to stop the bike (so that I never apply full squeeze to the front brake).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T10:12:43.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17248" CreationDate="2013-08-21T11:15:29.240" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commuted for years carrying just one pannier.  In fact, I have a pair of mismatched panniers because I wore out one of each original pair.  If you just have clothes and incidentals in the bag, one pannier is certainly sufficient -- you will barely notice the slight off-balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely worry about heel spacing.  Figure out how to get the bags as far back as you can, and note that most bags have a preferred side, so that the forward face is sloped back to give more heel clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For commuting and light touring the change in stopping distance is hardly noticeable (and obviously no different from the same load in a backpack).  A fully loaded setup (with 50-80 pounds of gear) will increase your stopping distance proportional to the change in weight (ie, a 20-30 percent increase), but this is generally not a problem unless you ride aggressively or have some long downhills to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strap you describe sounds like it's intended to hook near the axle and keep the pannier from swinging out from the bike.  This hook also keeps the pannier from &quot;jumping&quot; off the bike on bumps, and must be securely fastened at all times while riding.  When the pannier is properly secured you should be able to almost lift the bike by lifting up the pannier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="7741" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T18:45:40.223" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T18:45:40.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17248" CreationDate="2013-08-21T11:43:52.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been commuting by bicycle even since I learnt to ride as a kid, and I've never commuted in any other way.  I'd like to add one aspect that nobody has mentioned yet:  &lt;strong&gt;be wary of theft&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stand at a traffic light in a busy city, and have a visible laptop-bag in a pannier at the rear, it can be all-to-easy for someone to grab it and ride away with it.  Therefore, you should make sure that your panniers can be properly closed and are not too easy to take off.  Stealing from an open pannier is much easier than ordinary pick-pocketing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T11:43:52.830" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14821" CreationDate="2013-08-21T12:16:51.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is certainly true that adding bulk to your helmet has some drawbacks in crashes and such, and consequently warrants some concern. In the incidence of a crash, solid, small objects that are fixed to a specific area of the helmet increase the distribution of force on mounting area, instead of spreading it away from the impact site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my justification has always been this: a light can prevent just more crashes than not having a light will save you once you have crashed. Essentially, by using a head mounted light, you have more freely accessible light and can therefore be more aware of your surroundings. Equally, your surroundings will be more aware of you. These two facts combine to reduce the likelihood of crashing in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I like to think that landing helmet first with a light attached is just like landing helmet first into a branch or small rock. These are also likely occurrences in MTB riding, so I would assume helmets are designed with at least some thought on this sort of situation. It mightn't be the case in reality, and I haven't confirmed this with standards, but hopefully saying this will give you peace of mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, as far as personal experience has told me, a fixed light on your helmet can potentially do some harm in the event of a crash, but in the rest of the time spent riding, lights make helmets safer, and therefore makes riding safer. Seems like a good idea to me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T12:16:51.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17251" CreationDate="2013-08-21T14:59:21.797" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: I finally found the relevant article, so I'm editing my first answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;strong&gt;article R431-7&lt;/strong&gt; of the French &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Code de la route&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Les conducteurs de cycles à deux roues sans remorque ni side-car ne doivent jamais rouler à plus de deux de front sur la chaussée.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ils doivent se mettre en file simple dès la chute du jour et dans tous les cas où les conditions de la circulation l'exigent, notamment lorsqu'un véhicule voulant les dépasser annonce son approche.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which could be translated as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drivers of two-wheeled cycles without a trailer or sidecar should never ride more than two abreast on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They must drive in single file from nightfall and in all cases where the traffic conditions require it, in particular when a vehicle wanting to overtake them is approaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really clear &lt;strong&gt;if that imply you have to stay on the right of the road, but according to the second paragraph it would make sense to draw this conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, especially in France, there is the official law and the less-official customs, which can be quite different from each other sometimes. From my personal experience of both living in France and riding a bicycle, staying in the middle of the lane with cars behind you is the surest manner to make the driver loose his patience and start trying to do crazy things, like driving few centimeters close to your back wheel. So I would not advise it. But keeping a safe distance between your path and the right side of the road, such as around 1 meter, is what most riders do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a full reference of the &amp;quot;Code de la route&amp;quot;, you can check &lt;a href=&quot;http://legifrance.gouv.fr/affichCode.do?cidTexte=LEGITEXT000006074228&amp;amp;dateTexte=20130821&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the legifrance website&lt;/a&gt;. You can get the latest version of the text, and also &lt;a href=&quot;http://legifrance.gouv.fr/download_code_pdf.do?pdf=LEGISCTA000006108688&amp;amp;cidTexte=LEGITEXT000006074228&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;download a PDF version&lt;/a&gt;. It's cross-referenced and you can search on the text. Obviously it's in French :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T15:11:59.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16984" CreationDate="2013-08-21T15:07:43.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of my biking is on the road. I usually run a 1 1/4 inch tire on the rear, and consistently get 2000 miles until the cords begin to show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This year I am running on 1 3/8 inch tire, and I now get 2100 miles until the cords show. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between 1 1/4 and 1 3/8 isn't much, mathematically speaking, but it looks much wider than the numbers indicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friends and I all agree that the biggest advantage to running a wider tire is that they are more forgiving. i.e. They can take more abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the comment below on the Schwalbe's. I've been using Continental's (Highway 2) for years. I can almost set my odometer by when they wear out. 2000 miles = cords showing. (rear tire)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some checking. Continental has a huge assortment of tires, and their marketing blurbs are nearly worthless. I think the reason for my low mileage is that I am using their Contact 2 tire, which I think is meant to give better traction on wet pavement, but I am not sure about that. If I am not mistaken, I should be using their Touring Plus tire for better wear, but I am not sure about that either. Their web site isn't very informative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7875" LastEditorUserId="7875" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T08:37:36.433" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T08:37:36.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17251" CreationDate="2013-08-21T15:21:44.290" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for your second question (&lt;em&gt;minimum margin for overtaking a bicycle&lt;/em&gt;), indeed there is one: several websites (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.codep54-ffct.org/securite.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mobilicites.com/fr_informations-professionnelles-14-au-20-mars-2011---respectez-les-cyclistes--_79_845.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;another&lt;/a&gt;) mention it. From the Code, Article R414-4 (IV) says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pour effectuer le dépassement, il doit se déporter suffisamment pour ne pas risquer de heurter l'usager qu'il veut dépasser. Il ne doit pas en tout cas s'en approcher latéralement à moins &lt;strong&gt;d'un mètre en agglomération et d'un mètre et demi hors agglomération&lt;/strong&gt; s'il s'agit d'un véhicule à traction animale, d'un engin à deux ou à trois roues, d'un piéton, d'un cavalier ou d'un animal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the overtaking margin is &lt;strong&gt;1m in urban area&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;1m50 outside&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7873" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2013-08-21T16:03:15.573" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T16:03:15.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17251" CreationDate="2013-08-21T15:30:17.830" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Code de la Route also states the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;En marche normale, tout conducteur doit maintenir son véhicule près du&#xA;  bord droit de la chaussée, autant que le lui permet l'état ou le&#xA;  profil de celle-ci.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a regular situation, any driver must keep his vehicle close to the right side of the road as much as the state of the road allows it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part does not specify the nature of the vehicle so bicycles are impacted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;as much as the state of the road allows it&quot; is a freedom breech that allows you to add good sense to this law:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ride on the right, but not too close as to be within reach of an opening door of a parked car! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ride on the right, but if the road is narrow enough that you consider overtaking by a car unsafe, prevent it from happening a ride closer to the centre!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ride on the right but if the side of the road is covered by debris, move closer to the centre!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True it might piss the drivers off but ensure your own safety first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The police is not that picky with cyclists and when they're riding on the right half of the right lane, everyone is happy I would think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T15:30:17.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16275" CreationDate="2013-08-21T18:38:24.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if your goal is to prevent the saddle from being stolen or getting wet. But if your are just trying to secure the seat one of these would do the trick. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ecom1.planetbike.com/2024.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ecom1.planetbike.com/2024.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy fancy saddle cover or just use a plastic shopping bag to keep it dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I you simply enjoy carrying your saddle around these options may not help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7814" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T18:38:24.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17221" CreationDate="2013-08-21T19:32:42.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem (but also beauty) of steeps is that unless you have enough experience with steeps you cannot easily judge whether you can do it or not. So the solution is to see it both from above and from below. If both views scare you then you should probably not do it and in order to gain more experience you need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;practice in steeps smaller in length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;practice in steeps with smaller angle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;watch someone at your riding level do that steep first&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases wear your full face helmet and, if things look really serious, a neck brace may be handy in case of an OTB (over the bars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, after practice and if you are really interested in that kind of riding you'll be able to hit stuff such as: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/29X0ARs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://i.imgur.com/29X0ARs.jpg&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T19:32:42.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16641" CreationDate="2013-08-21T19:39:41.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's so much that they wick away water as that there's more friction to be had when wet. I haven't personally had ceramic rims before, but everything I've heard and read leads me to believe that folks who ride often in bad weather prefer them once they've tried them, due to easier braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T19:39:41.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15981" CreationDate="2013-08-21T19:46:24.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not done this myself but from what I've gathered it should be fine. The green pads are likely harder so they last longer and/or less likely to &quot;gum up&quot; the rim.&#xA;Running the wrong pads with ceramic rims- which are especially hard- isn't like running the wrong pads on carbon rims- which are especially soft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T19:46:24.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17204" CreationDate="2013-08-21T22:01:08.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ensure energy drinks are great for all-day bike rides.  I like the &quot;Plus&quot; versions that pack 350 calories into 8 ounces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7880" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T22:01:08.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17042" CreationDate="2013-08-21T22:05:20.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Product Information -- Our Cannondale elastomer kit will make your Head Shox work like new.&quot; $42.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suspensionforkparts.net/eshop/index.php?_a=viewProd&amp;amp;productId=156&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.suspensionforkparts.net/eshop/index.php?_a=viewProd&amp;amp;productId=156&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7880" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T22:05:20.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17278" CreationDate="2013-08-21T22:37:02.510" Score="0" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;It says it is a Cannondale F400, but it seems those all have forks with suspension.  I am trying to figure out what it is, and it's value, before I move forward with looking at it, but I can't find anything that looks the same, and has the same features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't post the images directly.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/4013428729.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/4013428729.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2017-05-08T18:10:09.863" Title="Can someone help me identify this bicycle?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2017-05-08T19:46:21.207" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17270" CreationDate="2013-08-21T23:45:50.577" Score="5" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a strange problem removing my chain ring bolt. problem is there is nothing to hold the back piece with because its perfectly rounded/flat, so when i turn the front the whole piece rotates. what do i do ?? All the ones ive seen have a slot so u can use a tool to hold it in place but mine doesnt. Thank you so much in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n3k9N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://i.stack.imgur.com/n3k9N.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7884" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T00:04:01.643" Title="Chain Ring Bolts" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17269" CreationDate="2013-08-22T00:04:01.643" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crankset you have is actually &lt;strong&gt;held together with rivets and not bolts.&lt;/strong&gt; Some manufacturers of some low-end cranksets make the rivets with a hex head on one side. The easiest way to remove it is with a hex key and a drill. Select a drill bit that is slightly larger than the core of the rivet. Being sure to hold it steady with a hex key, drill enough material out of the back side of the rivet and it should come right out. Replace with a normal chain ring bolt and you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is the easy way to remove most rivets. If you're working on a blind rivet - when you can't see the back side - start drilling at an angle. The trick is to mutilate the rivet but not the hole!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T00:04:01.643" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17221" CreationDate="2013-08-22T01:38:14.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure my risk calculus is different from the OP's, but I heard a piece of advice some time before from a seasoned dirt rider around my age (mid-40's): &quot;If you can't climb it, don't descend it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly this advice is not applicable to everyone at every time, but in practice I have found this is not bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T01:38:14.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-22T09:52:09.860" Score="1" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Raleigh maybe 8 years old with shimano 15 gears. How do I reassemble the rear gearing after fitting new tyres? Everything seems to be in correct position but a small bolt with captive nut seems to fit in a triangular hole above the axle, on frame but this then throws the gear all out of position. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7888" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-08-22T13:26:06.320" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T18:42:38.497" Title="How do I reassemble the rear gearing after fitting new tyres?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-22T15:11:16.300" Score="8" ViewCount="94015" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would someone explain wheel sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am not mistaken, the wheels on my Trek 520 touring bike are 700C. There are no markings, and of course, no documentation of any kind. I assume 700 means 700mm, so 700 / 25.4 = 27.56 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I measure the rim however, its diameter is approximately 25.1 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I buy Continental tires, the size is 28 inch, but I have to buy 27 inch Bontrager tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make matters worse, per this link, tires come in sizes of 26, 27, and 28 inch, and size 700. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_420&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_420&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I determine my wheel size, and are these various sizes interchangable. Also, is the 'C' suffix important, and what does it mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the tires are marked, but I am under the impression (per the dealers comments) that Continental marks their tires differently than everyone else. Also, the tire markings don't help for ordering a new wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With so many tire sizes available, how can I know if I am using the correct size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading the various answers here, I should explain that my confusion on this matter stemmed from the fact that I used to work as an auto mechanic. In the auto industry, car tires are based on wheel size, 13&quot;, 14&quot;, 15&quot; etc, and there is no possible way to mount a 15&quot; tire on a 13&quot; rim for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I saw all these different tire sizes, I assumed they all required a different wheel size, but in fact, there is essentially just one wheel diameter for my type of bike, which they refer to as 700C, which is actually 622mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also initially assumed that the C referred to the wheel's width, but that isn't true either. The C is apparently just antiquated terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at least in theory, I can mount a 26&quot;, 27&quot; 28&quot; or 29&quot; tire on my 700C (622mm) rim. I just need to verify the width of the tire is suitable my wheel width, which is what Sheldon Brown's article explains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I measured my Continental tires, which are marked as 28 inch. They actually measure 27 inches (fully inflated), which must be why my dealer calls their sizing non standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7875" LastEditorUserId="7875" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T10:25:56.153" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T00:00:11.080" Title="How do I determine my wheel size" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17234" CreationDate="2013-08-22T15:21:22.613" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say every week twice. Monday and Thursday are good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7567" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T15:21:22.613" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17273" CreationDate="2013-08-22T15:38:17.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/_webedit/uploaded-files/All%20Files/Technical%20Info.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page five lists 700C as french marking for 28&quot;. Be sure to read their preceding discussion, where they explain that correspondences are somewhat arbitrary and it is not impossible for 28&quot; tyres to not fit perfectly on your rims (your dealer was probably correct).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-08-22T15:44:40.907" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T15:44:40.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="186" CreationDate="2013-08-22T15:58:52.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Yet another very-slightly different answer follows below.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never owned a stand, and don't have the space for one in my apartment. Plus I prefer to do it in the park in clear air with a beer in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My procedure:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(0) This answer concerns only the in-frame method, that is, when you have V-brakes. Why would you true a wheel on which the rim is not rubbing against any pads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Turn the bike upside down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Check if there are any very loose or very tight spokes. Your wheel is already out of true, it won't hurt to correct problems. Overtightened spokes may break, while loose ones might rattle when they become even more loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3)Tighten your brakes excessively. That is, unscrew this so that the wheel barely turns and rubs most of the time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PyBTv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4) Turn the tire and find the place where it rubs the most. Identify which side it rubs and correct it as others have noted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(5) Repeat 4. lots of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(6) Finish your beer and get another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-08-23T07:53:43.000" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T07:53:43.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2013-08-22T16:17:42.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or, as I have done numerous times, buy a good used bike from a Local Bike Shop that has a good frame that you think you will enjoy long term, and reasonable components.  Then you can ride, at a good price, with good stuff, and you can decide what to upgrade and when.  Last time I bought a complete bike was 1999.  I am riding 3 different bikes right now, a 1998 Merlin Ti, a 2004 Merlin Ti/Carbon and a 2008 Merlin Ti, none of which I paid more than $2300 for, and each are now worth a lot more due to upgrades over the years, on my schedule and budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All personal choice, but I've been pretty happy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7891" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T16:17:42.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17267" CreationDate="2013-08-22T16:49:37.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2004&amp;amp;brand=Cannondale&amp;amp;model=Adventure+400+Feminine#.UhY_9Bt975Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikePedia&lt;/a&gt; has an entry about a bike that looks to be the same as what you posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Cannondale Adventure 400 femenine model.  It appears that this came with a front shock initally, but may have been fitted with a rigid front fork (or there were alternate models without the shock).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These appear to have been produced for several years, with a mostly similar design. I'm not quite sure what year that model is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T16:49:37.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17272" CreationDate="2013-08-22T18:42:38.497" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you're placing the tire back into the wrong gear to begin with. Always remember what gear you left off on as it can ruin your entire setup in a matter of seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7893" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T18:42:38.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17273" CreationDate="2013-08-22T21:42:00.310" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too own a Trek 520 and the bike does indeed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/touring/520/520/#/us/en/model/details?url=us/en/bikes/road/touring/520/520&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;come with 700C wheels&lt;/a&gt; and has for quite a number of years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The labeling of a 700C tire is somewhat misleading due to historical reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally, tires were sold in sizes based on the outer diameter of the tire. 700A, 700B, and 700C tires were all 700mm in diameter. However, the 700C tires were the thickest and the 700A tires were the thinnest. This difference was made up by using a smaller diameter rim for 700C tires and a larger diameter rim for 700A tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, all tires labeled as 700C mount on a 622mm rim. Most tires will have both labels on them. 622 is the size recognized by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iso.org/iso/home.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;International Organization for Standardization, or ISO&lt;/a&gt; but 700C has become so common that it is the de facto industry standard label and is how most people will refer to that size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire widths are (sort of) an additional complication. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; has a chart showing what widths tires are compatible with what width rims. However, I have run all sorts of widths on my 520, have never worried about rim compatibility, and have never had a problem in that respect. (I have mounted one brand of 700x35 that was big enough to rub on my frame, even though lots of others worked fine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this information and more is available on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's tire sizing systems page&lt;/a&gt;, which is a fascinating read if you want to dork out over tire sizes for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The following is in response to your edit:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; correct that you can mount a 26&quot; or 27&quot; tire on your 622mm rim. 26&quot; and 27&quot; tires are two different entities and each mounts on a different size rim. A 26&quot; tire mounts on a 599mm rim and a 27&quot; tire mounts on a 630mm rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#fraction&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;be wary of 28&quot; tires&lt;/a&gt;. While some mount on a 622mm rim, others mount on a 635mm rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, trust the ISO number and stick within the widths on the chart mentioned above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T23:49:01.450" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T23:49:01.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17281" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-22T22:02:43.087" Score="7" ViewCount="2039" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an accident on my carbon road bike. As I look at it, I do not see visible damage to the frame or forks. Is there a way that the frame can be tested for damage and if so, how do I get this testing done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7895" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2013-08-23T14:50:45.753" LastActivityDate="2013-08-24T10:31:29.860" Title="Is there a way to check for non-visible damage on a carbon frame?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15288" CreationDate="2013-08-23T01:33:08.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 1st suggestion is if what you have still works, don't change it. SA experts tell you any SA cable replaces easily. Bull.  Some shifters require a different type of cable end and different ferrel.  You have to get a matching type.  There are at least two different diameters of indicator spindle and barrel adjusters, with the larger diameter barrel being mostly what is sold.  Good luck if you have the thin spindle, but cable with the thin barrel adjuster can be found if you scour all the sources.  I'm fixing up a very old Raleigh and finally decided I must get a newer trigger shifter because I will never find cable with the correct end that fits this shifter.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7896" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T01:33:08.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2013-08-23T08:06:35.513" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quality-wise bikes are a lot like chains. The total quality of a bike (where with quality I mean stuff like durability, smoothness, ease of use, ease of maintenance, etc.) is very dependent on the weakest link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An expensive frame with cheap components makes for a worse bike than a mid-range frame with mid-range components. So given the choice I'd go for the (relatively) cheaper frame with the (relatively) more expensive components, all dependend on what I actually wanted to spend on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &quot;ride quality&quot; differences between carbon and aluminium and steel. Carbon is usually less stiff, so the ride is a bit more comfortable. Steel has the same properties as carbon and is more durable, aliminium is usually a lot stiffer and hence the ride is harsher. For that reason you get aluminium frames with carbon fork and stays. The main disadvantage of steel is of course weight, but you have to look at this critically. The 0.5-1 kg weight reduction you get by going from a really good and durable steel to a carbon frame disappears in the 15-20 kg of fat you are lugging around anyway, and unless you plan to go ride a lot of serious races you will never notcie the small gain of the lighter frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I'm going with this: In the standard bikes you buy the frame is often of higher quality (and price) compared to the other components. You can get a better bike for less money if you pay attention to this when buying your bike. Spending some time talking this over with you friendly LBS owner will help here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T08:06:35.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17287" CreationDate="2013-08-23T09:21:50.717" Score="2" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manufacturer specifies a seat clamp/collar size of 36.6mm. I was wondering if a 36.4mm clamp will work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much tolerance is there with a seat clamp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7899" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T12:27:04.447" Title="Seat clamp tolerance" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;clamp&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2013-08-23T10:08:57.437" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do always wear a full face (downhill) helmet on my everyday (25 km one way) commute to the job. Being a downhill addict, it's been straightforward to put it on from home to my training sites and back. Since this was quite manageable, I skipped the half-face helmet completely even for normal cycling some three years ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, full face helmets get hotter than bike helmets. Still, downhill helmets stay much cooler than motocross ones. Also, ventilation has improved a lot over the last years. Anyway, this is mostly a question of getting used to. Here, the summer is usually between 20 and 25 °C, and it's not a problem. In winter (between -10 and -20 °C), I use my motocross helmet to stay warm. At least I skip these funny tower constructions - trying to press-fit a scarf and a fur cap under a traditional bike helmet. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you get the looks. Feeling observed... huh?   This is merely a question of carrying a large pink teddybear across a populated city square. Do it five times and this part is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a certain reduction of the field of view. Place a tiny mirror on your bike frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hearing is not at all impeded by a downhill helmet but considerably reduced when wearing a motocross or other mc helmet, specially directional hearing. So you need to look twice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One and a half year ago one of my colleagues had a face plant and got a quite painful chin surgery, and also lost 3 teeth that had to be re-implanted. Needless to say - he's joined the club by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7901" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T11:45:42.067" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T11:45:42.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17284" CreationDate="2013-08-23T12:27:04.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;0.2mm on seatpost clamp will make no difference!&#xA;The tolerence is small maybe 1-2mm. a 0.2mm difference is pretty much how far the clamp moves when you tighten the binder! maybe even more.&#xA;Youll see how far it moves when you take the binder off the frame and tighten it a little. the clamp goes smaller basically clamping down. so in practice it clamps the seat tube down onto the seatpost tightening all in its place. long explanation, I know but thats the just of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7900" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T12:27:04.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16963" CreationDate="2013-08-23T13:37:10.063" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;And the simple answer is because its a radial (turning around a fixed point) force then the calculation (centripetal) force requires the size of the circle to be squared (thats it multiplied by itself), so if you increase the virtual rotor size by 45mm (160 to 205) then you square the difference (45x45 = 2025) then the forces involved are going to be MUCH bigger at the centre point and at the periphery of the circle, in short if you dont follow the manufacturers guidelines then you may or may not cause the system (fork, hub, spokes, calipers, mounting, axle, pads, etc) to fail at its weakest point. Having had this happen to me at Fort William downhill course (it was the pads, that i ripped the pad material clean off the backing plate) that failed and I went over a rather large double jump a little (a lot) too fast and the results are one year on a case of tendenitis and a lot of physio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7903" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T13:37:10.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-23T15:51:16.257" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a foldable bike and I need to constantly adjust the height of my bike seat, the problem is that one of the pieces of the seatpost collar is totally worn out and needs replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part that I need is depicted in this image:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/NZ97PME&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/NZ97PME&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I wouldn't want to spend too much money on this. Does anyone have a creative solution to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7904" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-08-23T18:39:04.253" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T18:39:04.253" Title="Where can I find a replacement part for a seatpost collar?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17281" CreationDate="2013-08-23T17:38:29.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of people having their frames x-rayed, but for obvious reasons that's not very practical. The most reliable manner of checking a carbon frame for damage that I'm aware of is the old coin tap test. Get a quarter ( or whatever coin fits that form factor in your local currency) and go over the frame lightly tapping the edge of the coin against the frame. Intact carbon makes a distinct &quot;clack&quot;, whereas damaged, delaminating carbon will have a much duller thud sound when tapped. Keep in mind that as the tubes change shapes and thicknesses the sound will gradually change. What you're looking for is a distinctly different muted report that abruptly changes within a very localized area.&#xA;Keep in mind that this is not a foolproof or exhaustive method of checking your frame and fork for damage, but it does work surprisingly well. I've found many a damaged frame this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T17:38:29.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17289" CreationDate="2013-08-23T18:38:39.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Through a lot of searching, I can't say there's anywhere that sells that specific part; however, you may have some luck contacting the manufacturer or distributor directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, a much easier and simpler solution would be to replace the clamp/collar entirely. It's probably pretty worn out if you're missing that piece anyway!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the great selection over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Seatpost-Collars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jenson USA&lt;/a&gt;, or your favorite LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T18:38:39.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17281" CreationDate="2013-08-24T10:31:29.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In recent years more specialty shops that deal in carbon frame repair have become more available. Many are shops that do custom frame builds. A Google search may get some leads that are local thus savings on shipping. In the Northeast U.S. I have used HotTubes.com to check a frame.  I was reluctant to go to my local bike shop due to the limited number of frames they see per year. In addition to the fact that they couldn't do any repairs if they were needed. As @jm2 has stated nothing is foolproof. However the replacement cost of the frame and the risk involved of riding with a damaged frame would make spending a couple hundred dollars for an inspection or repair a viable investment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-08-24T10:31:29.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7610" CreationDate="2013-08-24T14:44:31.177" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been waiting until I had enough time to give this a proper answer, because the answer to the question in the title is &quot;it depends&quot; and it's a very important &quot;it depends.&quot; It runs the gamut from yes to absolutely not. I want to cover road bike tires here as well, as I don't want folks making the jump from &quot;it's ok for mountain bikes&quot; to &quot;it's ok for road bikes.&quot; Cyclocross bikes sit right about in the middle depending on the pressure you like to run&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mountain bikes you can run just about any tire you want on a tubeless rim as long as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/Sealant-C14.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you use sealant&lt;/a&gt;. There are some exceptions, as I covered &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14824/can-i-damage-a-tubeless-rim-using-a-wire-bead-tire-on-it#14871&quot;&gt;in my answer here.&lt;/a&gt; It's also important to note that when you go tubeless you cannot run the high end of your tires' pressure range anymore. The wider the tire, the more this is true. Most folks have no intention of switching to tubeless and pumping their tires up tight, but then again you'd be surprised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cyclocross tires, pretty much everything above holds true, especially the bit above pressure. If you're considering running anything above 50psi you need to get a dedicated tubeless cyclocross tire. It's just not worth the risk otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For road, the answer is an emphatic, unequivocal no. You &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; run road tires made for tubes on a tubeless setup. Ever. They will blow off the rim, hopefully before you even get them up to pressure, and you will get hurt or killed. You can convert a normal rim to a tubeless setup with a kit, but you cannot run a normal road tire on any tubeless road setup. If you want to know why, keep reading...&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole reason pneumatic tires work is because they're pushing outward on the wall of the tube or tire. PSI stands for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pounds_per_square_inch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pounds per square inch&lt;/a&gt;. I assume everyone already knows that but what some haven't thought about is that the term is pretty literal. For every 1 PSI you pump up your tire the air pressure inside is literally exerting a pound of force per square inch on the inside relative to outside atmospheric pressure. That's why if you're a 150lb rider, bike and all, and you have your tires pumped up to 100psi, you've got a grand total of 1.5 square inches of rubber making contact with the road (there are other circumstances to take into account here like casing and compound, but we wont nitpick material physics here). That also means that you've got enormous amounts of pressure trying to tear your tire off the rim in every direction. The bead on wire (non-folding) and kevlar (folding) beaded tires is ever so slightly stretchy. Not very stretchy, but just enough that neither type of bead will stay seated on the rim under the amount of force which the air inside of a pumped up road tire is exerting outward on the tire. Think about what a tube does when you over-inflate it outside the tire- it expands to a much larger diameter than your wheel. Your tire is doing the same thing on a much smaller scale. It's doing this just enough that a standard bead without a tube in place can climb out of the channel where it sits and over the edge of your rim, causing catastrophic results if you're rolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a tube in place inside a rim, the air pressure pushes against the tube first which in turn pushes against the tire which binds the bead in place against the rim. The interaction between the tube pushing against the tire vs just air pressure pushing against the tire is a little different. The tube helps reinforce the pressure against the bead and lock it in place whereas air pressure alone is not enough to fight against the tire's need to expand in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do tubeless road (and &quot;official&quot; tubeless cyclocross) tires fix this problem? Instead of a kevlar or wire bead- both of which have a little bit of stretch to them- tubeless road tires use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maxxis.com/Repository/Images/tubeless_lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carbon fiber bead&lt;/a&gt; which has virtually no stretch to it at all. Since they don't stretch, carbon fiber beads are not susceptible to the pressure inside the tire tearing them off the rim like a standard bead (I'll mention that road tubeless tires typically have a little differently shaped bead as well, but this is more to prevent burping when matched with an official road tubeless rim). This is why you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.probikesupply.com/stans-notubes-intensive-road-tubeless-bundle/?gclid=CJSF3sSolrkCFepZ7AodwS8AXg#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;convert a standard road rim to tubeless&lt;/a&gt; but you cannot &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; run a standard road tire on a tubeless setup, official tubeless rim or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same problem described for road tubeless can apply to cyclocross or mountain bike setups if the pressure is high enough. That's why carbon fiber beaded tires are available for cyclocross but you can run a standard cross tire tubeless at lower pressure. For mountain bikes non-elastic beads just aren't necessary because no one in their right mind pumps a mtb tire up that tight to begin with- tubeless or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-08-24T14:50:08.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17248" CreationDate="2013-08-25T11:54:53.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that surprised me about using panniers to commute was that the inside of the panniers had an influence on the stuff that I put in them. In particular, my panniers (JandD) partially expose the back sides of some of the mounting clips inside the bags themselves. I found that this exposed hardware scratched up my laptop one day; it could similarly mark up clothing or other possible undesirable things if painted surfaces are involved. I'd recommend &quot;double-packing&quot; the work equipment you add to your panniers to make sure it comes out fine when you arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7741" LastEditorUserId="7741" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T12:40:39.970" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T12:40:39.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17300" CreationDate="2013-08-25T12:39:39.387" Score="3" ViewCount="3343" Body="&lt;p&gt;After many years of programming, I have found that I can no longer avoid the fact that I spend most of my day sitting, which is absolutely horrible for my health. I started swimming a few months ago and am enjoying getting back into better shape, so I'd like to start adding in some workouts on a stationary bike. I have one long bike tour under my belt, but that was many years ago at this point, so though I'm not new to cycling I haven't ever really focused on cycling for physical fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ready access to a boring bike at the gym. It just has flat pedals, but it does have a computer and controllable difficulty levels, along with a built-in pulse monitor. My question is, what sorts of workouts would be good to try for starters ? Should I just get on and pedal for half an hour ? What cadence should I aim for (in my mind I'm shooting for somewhere near 100) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two goals in adding a stationary bike workout: I'd like to increase my cardiovascular fitness (currently I can barely swim 100m in one go, because my lungs feel like they're going to explode), and I'd like to make my quads stronger. Hopefully these aren't at odds with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7741" LastEditorUserId="7741" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T12:52:22.047" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T13:55:16.957" Title="Good beginner workouts on stationary bike" Tags="&lt;exercise&gt;&lt;stationary-bike&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17298" CreationDate="2013-08-25T13:55:16.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long do you have?  How strong is your motivation?  How good are the bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, most exercise bikes have a very poor &quot;simulated feel&quot;, and a real cyclist tires of them pretty quickly.  This is especially true of the old friction bikes and many of the wind and magnetic trainers.  A few (Expresso bikes, and some of the newer Le Monde bikes that I've tried) do have a halfway passable &quot;feel&quot;, though, since they have a modicum of momentum (which is the main thing missing in the others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the bike for several things -- short bursts, to raise your HR and short-term aerobic capacity, long sessions (at LEAST 30 minutes, preferably longer) to tax your glucagon storage just a hair and build endurance, and brief &quot;climbs&quot; to strengthen your muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, given access to a reasonably well-equipped gym, you probably should throw in some strength training as well, with leg presses, extensions, and curls.  And, believe it or not, simply being conscious to doing more squats through the day (eg, when reaching down to open a file drawer) can produce significant improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you really need longer sessions -- at least two hours at a crack -- to build your long-term endurance.  These are probably best done on a real bike, though, if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not convinced cadence is that important, but as a rough guide I'd say about 110 minus 65% of your age should be the upper limit, and 75% of that number would be the lower limit.  (Unfortunately, many exercise bikes only work smoothly at high cadence.)  My general rule for cadence lower limit is to never pedal slower than you're breathing, and that covers virtually all situations other than a brief climb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heart rate is also a guide, but there is much individual variation in rate, so it's hard to give numbers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T13:55:16.957" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-26T05:35:51.967" Score="1" ViewCount="2213" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just want some opinion. I have a MTB bike, but I want to make it lighter. So here are some of my thoughts currently on what I think I should change:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700c rims and tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cantilever brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rigid fork &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The details of the bike are as below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disc brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26er wheels with road slick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspension fork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional details: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike frame weighs 11kg with suspension fork without wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Current wheel set (rim and tire) weigh 2kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7x3 speed &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat handlebar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I change the gearing of the bike into that of a road (7x2 speed)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should the 700c rims able to withstand 10-11kg of frame? (note that the rider is 75kg)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear end of the bike does not seem to have a place to mount cantilever brakes, but has two small holes that can somewhat screw in something on each side the frame. What is it actually for? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for sharing your opinion and information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7929" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T00:59:35.823" Title="MTB Conversion For Lighter Commuting" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-26T06:52:20.703" Score="0" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a one month old Citizen foldable bike and I have noticed a soft &quot;thunk&quot; when turning the crank. It sounds the same whatever gear I am in. It also seems to go away for a short while if I stop pedaling. This started just last week when my gears were slipping. I had adjusted the derailleur, but the &quot;thunk&quot; remained. I am pretty sure it is coming from the bottom bracket, but it could also be coming from the main sprocket - it is hard to tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7931" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T12:22:08.953" Title="Soft &quot;Thunk&quot; in the crank" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17301" CreationDate="2013-08-26T07:21:51.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not a light bike, even by MTB standards, and will never be a great road bike as it will always be heavy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the easy and relatively cheap stuff - tires and tubes. Dump excess rolling weight by getting light tires an even going tubeless. The next biggest bang for your $$$ will be replacing the fork. You should be able to pick up a second hand fork for next to nothing - just watch the geometry. If you do this, canti brakes on the front is likely worth doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing wheels is probably not worth the effort, you will shave off  a few hundred grams (admit-ably rolling weight), but it will cost big money.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look very hard at the costs of any proposals. My guess is that for what you are proposing, a cheaper option that will give you a better outcome would be to buy a second hand bike that does what you want, rather than trying to make your current bike into something it is not.  You may have access to cheap parts, but in that case you probably have access t cheap bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T07:21:51.717" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17248" CreationDate="2013-08-26T07:54:43.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something to take care of is &lt;strong&gt;the increase in influence from side winds&lt;/strong&gt;, and a small increase in aerodynamic drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to bike in Amsterdam, in the Netherlands, which is often a bit windy, and you can immediately feel the difference riding &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the net effect from side wind can be overall positive; as with sail-boat, depending on the shape of your panniers, &lt;strong&gt;aerodynamic drag with side wind can be smaller than without&lt;/strong&gt;. You can optimize the shape of your panniers by carefully filling them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be sometimes fun to have to manage your bike stability in strong wind. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4CH3T7i_Qw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; to see an example :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7873" LastEditorUserId="7873" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T07:59:44.037" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T07:59:44.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17303" CreationDate="2013-08-26T12:02:05.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An odd possibility, but it happened to me... does your foldie have a kickstand? If so, any chance that your crank is hitting it while you pedal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fix for me, once I figured out the problem, was obvious and simple: put kickstand up, push it in toward frame, tighten it down with hex wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T12:02:05.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6287" CreationDate="2013-08-26T13:34:14.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Early Shimano 105s leavers all you have to do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;'slack' off the Brake callipers by pushing the little leaver on the brakes(not leavers on bars) to full open (as if you need to take the wheels off).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stand in front of the handle bars and pull the leavers fully as if braking and look in to the leavers! inside you will see a HEX nut (5mm) tighten and your ready to go!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7934" LastEditorUserId="607" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T15:18:23.790" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T15:18:23.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-26T13:54:23.403" Score="7" ViewCount="17623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new bike, probably a month old, which has Hayes cx 5 disc brakes.  I've noticed that the front brake pad is making a grinding sound when I brake at low to moderate speeds. What could be causing this? The pads that come with these brakes are Semi-Metallic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotor bolts are all tight, there is no pad rub when coasting, and the bolts connecting the brake to the fork are tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T20:27:40.267" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T04:49:17.757" Title="Grinding sound on new disc brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17316" CreationDate="2013-08-26T13:57:40.217" Score="24" ViewCount="38560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen several different descriptors for disc brake pads: Metallic, Semi-Metallic, and Organic.  What is the difference between these types of disc brake pads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2018-04-04T08:16:35.113" Title="What is the difference between different types of disc brake pads" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9388" CreationDate="2013-08-26T14:00:03.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 6 year old is capable of pedaling, and would likely enjoying so. We have had success combining a single kid seat (the Yepp Maxi) with a Burley Piccolo on the back of a Yuba Mundo. This required some a bit of custom welding for Piccolo attachment, but it has been well worth it. This configuration gets used quite a lot by my wife and two kids. Here's what it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/8681520811/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Yuba Train Rolls Along by Mark Stosberg, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8379/8681520811_04ddab7f4b_z.jpg&quot; width=&quot;640&quot; height=&quot;480&quot; alt=&quot;Yuba Train Rolls Along&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;''The children pictured there are ages 2 and 5.''&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/markstos/tags/yubatrain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lots more photos of our &quot;Yuba Train&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. One some of the close-up shots, you'll find more details about the DIY changes made to put this combination of things together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At age 4, the younger child can likely be carried with just some &quot;stoker bars&quot;. My daughter was already riding like that at age 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2001" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.420" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T14:00:03.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17308" CreationDate="2013-08-26T14:57:46.863" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes sometimes need to &quot;bed in,&quot; which means the pads will wear quickly at first then settle. During this period you can get some pretty awful sounding noises anywhere from screeching and squealing to grinding. BikeRadar has a great workshop &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-bed-in-disc-brake-pads-31337/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; about how to go through this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, have you ridden through some wet areas and maybe picked up some dirt? Contaminants on the the rotors or pads will cause some extra noise as well. Sanding the pads can help remove any surface dirt/grime and improve braking ability as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last option would be that there is something wrong with the pads or the pads are mismatched to the type/brand of brake. You could remove them and take a look and see if the wear pattern looks weird or if there's anything lodged in the pads themselves. It's pretty unlikely, but defective parts do happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T14:57:46.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9388" CreationDate="2013-08-26T16:10:33.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built my own front load cargo bike last February and love it. I built it at a hacker space here in Madison, WI. I had very limited experience welding. If you don't have access to such a space it still is pretty inexpensive to hire a professional welder to help build you one. I spent around $500 and have a totally custom bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tomscargobikes.com/tomscargobikes.com/BUILD_YOUR_OWN/Pages/BUILD_IT.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://tomscargobikes.com/tomscargobikes.com/BUILD_YOUR_OWN/Pages/BUILD_IT.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7814" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T16:10:33.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17315" CreationDate="2013-08-26T17:18:32.090" Score="3" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a bicycle to work every day for several months now.&#xA;I use a bicycle sharing system that my city offers, and it's very convenient: I don't have to worry about locking the bike or maintenance, I can use the bike only one way etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, recently I've started having back pains, and I think it has to do with the fact that the bikes in the sharing system don't have good shock absorbers, and I can feel every bump in the road giving me a strong jolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way I can reduce the damage to my back while still using the bike sharing system?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7825" LastEditorUserId="7741" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T13:06:55.537" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T15:16:54.240" Title="How can I reduce back pain on a shared bike with poor shock absorbers" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;&lt;sharing-scheme&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17308" CreationDate="2013-08-26T18:31:46.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Metallic pads tend to make really ugly sounds at lower speeds. If it is a rather high pitched grindy-squeaky sound that isn't particularly loud, there is no visible damage to the rotor, and there is no perceptible reverberation through the frame or brake lever that coincides with the sound then it is likely normal. With metallic pads, you literally have metal rubbing against metal and this can make some rather nasty sounds. From my experience the sound can be worse with a wavy rotor which is what most manufacturers use now. If you're not used to running this type of brake, it may be difficult to form a basis for what sounds normal vs what sounds like trouble, so if you still have doubts I recommend you pay a visit to your local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-08-27T02:13:39.173" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T02:13:39.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17313" CreationDate="2013-08-26T18:33:17.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By improving your technique. It is possible to have a very comforting ride on rough roads even with a rigid bike (no suspension at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, whenever you are seeing roughness on the road ahead you need to do what I've described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/16315/908&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/16315/908&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T18:33:17.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17309" CreationDate="2013-08-26T18:49:28.437" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Youll run into two types of metallic pads- sintered metallic and semi-metallic. The term &quot;metallic&quot; without any modifier gets used for a couple of reasons- a) many manufacturers don't offer both varieties of metallic pads for a given brake, so the type is implicit, and b) lots of folks don't know the difference or think the terms are interchangeable. They are similar, but different:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sintered metallic pads offer the best stopping power, but also cause the most rotor wear and can make the most noise, especially when wet. They are also the least affected by adverse conditions. Sintered metallic are typically used in downhill/freeride applications, but can be used for less demanding riding types as well. Depending on the setup, sintered pads can feel &quot;grabby&quot;, that is, that they lack modulation at the lever. That problem tends to arise on more powerful brakes with larger rotors though, and both of those factors play towards that perception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Semi-metallics are a tradeoff between braking performance and pad wear/noise. They still stop very well but can be a little less noisy and cause a little less rotor wear. They may also offer better lever modulation than sintered metallic pads. This pad type can often be found on higher end all-mountain, trail, and cross country oriented brakes, though some manufacturers opt for sintered pads while others may opt for organics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Organic pads are the kindest to your rotors and typically quitest, but don't offer the same bite as metallic pads. These pads also wear the quickest. This does not mean that they're low end pads though, and depending on conditions, riding style and personal preference they may be a great choice. Organic pads can offer the best lever modulation of the three pad types, but may not stop riders sufficiently in demanding circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T19:18:27.617" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T19:18:27.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3040" CreationDate="2013-08-26T19:30:28.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the suggestions here are great, but I wanted to post an answer in favor of minimalism. This answer won't help you spin the wheels while the bike is standing up, but I think it's interesting because the physics of a loaded touring bike are surprisingly different from a light road rig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I was surprised to find on my tour that I didn't need a kickstand at all. A traditional kickstand is more of a liability than anything because the distribution of weight on a touring rig is so high that your bike effectively ends up trying to balance on the head of a pin. I found that this high weight distribution could easily be taken advantage of by simply standing the bike against a vaguely sturdy object. All you need is a bush, a fencepost, a wall, a picnic table -- anything that's harder to displace than the bike itself, and a loaded touring frame will basically do the rest. It actually seemed to work best when the bike was barely leaning at all, as then most of the mass was centered over the axles and wheels, so at that point you really only needed a little bit of friction to prevent the bike from moving forwards or backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7741" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T19:30:28.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17313" CreationDate="2013-08-26T20:00:34.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The upright position, typical of shared bikes, are bad for back pain. I doubt you will be able to get into the position shown on the link shared by cherouvim but I would try to transfer more of you weight to the pedals rather than your saddle. Basically try to stand up as much as you can. It will not be easy on those shared bikes but maybe trying will help just enough. I would recommend riding a more typical bike when possible as I am not sure this will be enough to relieve your back pain.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7814" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T20:00:34.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17323" CreationDate="2013-08-26T21:21:22.660" Score="3" ViewCount="3295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/cross/croix-de-fer/croix-de-fer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Croix de Fer&lt;/a&gt; cross bike that I purchased for touring with luggage; for commuting to work, lighter touring and some mild offroad riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is nowhere stated officially, I can see on &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/review/73063-genesis-croix-de-fer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this review&lt;/a&gt; that the rims are 18mm wide:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7FEAM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;See the sticker&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What range of tire width can I run? &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saint Sheldon says 25-37mm for 17mm and 28-44mm for 19mm&lt;/a&gt;. And that it is on the safer side. What can I ride on this rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the fact that the rims are for disc brakes and their lack of brake track makes them a tad shallower. Does that change anything to this consideration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastActivityDate="2017-08-26T00:36:51.407" Title="What is the minimum tire width for a 18 mm disc rim?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17321" CreationDate="2013-08-26T23:04:38.443" Score="11" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it rude to stop in front of bikers stopped at a red light if you're generally slower, which will probably mean they will pass you again?  What if you are generally faster so it saves you having to pass them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3847" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:56:11.763" Title="Shoaling etiquette" Tags="&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17320" CreationDate="2013-08-27T00:24:48.527" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is rude to stop in front of another cyclist at a red light, especially if they are faster than you. That much is certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Carey says, the best thing to do is to just come to a stop behind the already stopped riders. If you do decide to shoal, at least have the courtesy to be faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T00:24:48.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17320" CreationDate="2013-08-27T01:55:14.660" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number one rule is be considerate to other cyclists, motor vehicles and pedestrians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of speed, it is inconsiderate to stop directly in front of a cyclist who is waiting for the lights to change, however there are different situations that could occur so saying to stop behind them is open to exceptions such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is a cyclist box present (or space otherwise) at the lights it is ok to pull up next to them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are approaching the lights as they change and still have momentum you shouldn't be expected to come to a stop behind an already stationary cyclist. &lt;em&gt;This is dependent on the infrastructure at the intersection and the volume of both cyclista nd vehicle traffic. It would not be recommended in a narrow  bicycle lane where there was no option but to pass too close to another cyclist.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst where you stop is important I think it is equally or more important to be aware of other cyclists (primarily in front and beside you) and not cut them off if you pass them. When you take off give any other cyclists plenty of room before you pull into single file. Cutting people off is probably the worst offence, especially as the first person at the lights will likely have the preferential line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T19:56:11.763" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:56:11.763" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17319" CreationDate="2013-08-27T01:55:51.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Sheldon's recommendations are a good rule of thumb - I might be wiling to go a tad narrower if I were truly compelled to do so, but that's all to be taken with a grain of salt. In terms of rim depth, it should play no part in your tire choice whatsoever as it has no bearing on how the tire will seat into the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T01:55:51.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17313" CreationDate="2013-08-27T02:19:19.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of the very rare instances where I might actually recommend a gel saddle cover. They have an elastic fitting and are very easy to put on and take off. If you're stuck with a bike from a share program that you cannot otherwise change, a padded seat cover might actually provide some benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T02:19:19.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17313" CreationDate="2013-08-27T03:53:24.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seriously doubt that it's due to the lack of shocks, unless you have some really bad roads there -- many people ride bikes great distances with no shocks, skinny, stiff tires, and no real springs in the seat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely your problem is with your posture -- seat too low, handlebar too low, handlebar too close or too far away, and/or pedals at the wrong angle to the seat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably you can adjust the seat height, so the first thing to try is to move it a bit higher.  When the seat is at the proper height your knees should be nearly straight at the bottom of your stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, see if you can adjust the seat forward/backwards.  Being too far either direction can cause back problems, so try several positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably can't adjust handlebar height, but if you can, try raising it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T03:53:24.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-27T14:08:20.230" Score="2" ViewCount="5435" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Shimano shifter flat bar series have the same cable pull length than the mountain bike shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this series compatible with a mountain bike front derailleur, Deore, for example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-08-27T16:03:41.350" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T23:28:03.603" Title="Are Shimano R440 road flat bar shifters compatible with a mountain bike front derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17328" CreationDate="2013-08-27T15:31:09.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a great thread &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/archive/index.php/t-55536.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that describes some of this. Here's the meat of it though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shimano's assertion that you need to use &quot;flat-bar&quot; front derailleurs&#xA;  with &quot;flat-bar&quot; shifters is false.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When working with Shimano, &quot;flat-bar&quot; shifters are really just&#xA;  mountain-bike shifters in different colors. This doesn't make a&#xA;  difference for the rear derailleur (Shimano has standardized the cable&#xA;  pull across all of their shifters), but there's two different cable&#xA;  pulls for the front derailleurs. &quot;Road&quot; front derailleurs require less&#xA;  cable movement than &quot;mountain&quot; front derailleurs for the same amount&#xA;  of lateral cage movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This has a couple consequences: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1: operating a &quot;mountain&quot; front&#xA;  derailleur with a &quot;road&quot; shifter will result in insufficient cage&#xA;  movement to make the shift. This is rare in the recumbent world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2: operating a &quot;road&quot; front derailleur with a &quot;mountain&quot; shifter will&#xA;  result in the shifter jamming before the internal ratchet catches,&#xA;  meaning the chain will shift but immediately return to its starting&#xA;  position. In other words, the shift fails. If the shift succeeds,&#xA;  often the shifter will jam at that spot and not allow the shift in the&#xA;  other direction. This is very common in the recumbent world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;the longer pull of the &quot;flat-bar&quot; or &quot;mountain&quot; front derailleurs makes for lighter pull at the shifter when using SRAM twist-grip&#xA;  shifters. This can be an advantage for people with slippery hands&#xA;  and/or weaker hands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Flat-bar&quot; front derailleurs also have cages that better match the&#xA;  larger diameter chainrings typically installed on road bikes.&#xA;  &quot;Mountain&quot; chainrings are typically smaller, and trying to get a&#xA;  &quot;mountain&quot; front derailleur to work on larger chainrings often&#xA;  involves compromised adjustment or hand-modified cages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My favorite &quot;flat-bar&quot; front derailleur is the Shimano FD-R443. (This&#xA;  is roughly Sora/Tiagra level parts: cheap, durable, and relatively&#xA;  attractive.) It's since been superceded by the FD-R453, which has a&#xA;  taller inner plate to match newer Shimano cranksets, but I like the&#xA;  FD-R443 for its greater adaptability to different chainring&#xA;  combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've been using the FD-R443 on several bikes, operated by Shimano&#xA;  Deore LX and XTR and SRAM Half-Pipe Attack shifters. It's always&#xA;  worked flawlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, not really. You might be able to find a combination of gearing, derailleur, and cable pull that will work, but you're probably still better off finding a matching set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T15:31:09.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18900" CreationDate="2013-08-27T20:12:06.330" Score="3" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I found that the freehub on my Hope XC rear hub won't rotate, but only when the wheel is in the bike and the quick release is tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've removed the freehub (which slides off easily), and serviced the pawls and springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought perhaps tightening the QR pushes the freehub against the lip seal, preventing it from rotating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spoke to Hope, who suggested that it might be that the internal spacer has worn. However, when I insert a small washer behind the spacer and install the wheel again the freehub still locks, despite there now being a visible (though small) gap between the freehub body and the lip seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to the exploded diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/_repository/documents/XCRearHubExploded.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/_repository/documents/XCRearHubExploded.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spacer I'm referring to is item number 5. The seal is item 11 - the 11 nearest the right (there are two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The behaviour is the same with the cassette removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4178" LastEditorUserId="4178" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T14:11:41.447" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T19:14:46.770" Title="Why is my Hope XC freehub locking when the quick release is tightened?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17341" CreationDate="2013-08-28T06:23:04.727" Score="9" ViewCount="9106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to road biking. I have ridden mountain bike in school and have been away from biking for about 5 years now. Looking around online tells me that three categories (in terms of price):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some real cheap ones, for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006058J5C&quot;&gt;Vilano Aluminum Road Bike 21 Speed Shimano&lt;/a&gt; for $329.00 - $379.00&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medium range ones around $800, for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008O2IKAI&quot;&gt;Diamondback 2013 Podium 3 Road Bike with 700c Wheels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And then very expensive ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to buy it for casual use (not for high speed). I would probably go ride in evenings for about 25 miles. Can somebody please suggest the differences in first two categories?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7957" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T07:01:03.530" LastActivityDate="2017-01-31T10:09:56.350" Title="What is the difference between cheap and less cheap road bikes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-28T08:19:41.327" Score="7" ViewCount="29998" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Related (but more general): &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13007/what-steps-should-i-follow-to-patch-a-tube&quot;&gt;What steps should I follow to patch a&#xA;  tube?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done this more than a hundred times, but am still not sure what are the &lt;em&gt;correct&lt;/em&gt; steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFB_PyoOrt4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; they show to put glue on the tube, peel the aluminum cover of the patch, patch the tube, wait for the glue to set, remove the transparent cover, ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had success with not waiting at all - remove tube, patch, put back in, let the pressure push the patch against the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had success patching without removing the transparent peel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had also tried putting glue only on the tube or both on the tube and the patch. Waiting a couple of minutes after applying the glue and before sticking the patch or not waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;So, what are the precise steps to apply a patch kit, from the moment the tire is in one's hands and the hole is located, to the moment the pumping up?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BW6yy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:51:41.383" Title="How to Patch a Bike Tube?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17334" CreationDate="2013-08-28T08:24:37.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the experts at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/inner-tube-repair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tools&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Patching an Inner Tube Using a Vulcanizing Patch Kit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glue type patches require the application of a thin layer of self-vulcanizing glue on the tube before the patch is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To fix a flat, first locate the hole in the inner tube. If possible, re-inflate inner tube to at least twice the normal width. Inspect for air leaks by holding tube close to the sensitive skin of lips or by holding tube near your ear to hear leaks. Move the tube around its circumference. If you find one hole, keep looking for more. Inspect inside the tire for sharp objects or glass. Also inspect the rim strip in the rim. It should not have any holes around the spoke holes and should fully cover the holes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you plan to repair the inner tube, use a marking pen to mark hole. Make four marks, one to each side of hole. Do not mark close to hole, as the mark may be sanded off.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.Locate hole marked during inspection, as described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.Using fine emery cloth or sandpaper, lightly abrade area around hole. Abrade an area larger than patch size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.When possible, clean area with alcohol and allow it to dry completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.Open glue tube and puncture seal. Apply thin coat of glue and spread evenly around hole area. Spread area of glue larger than patch size. Use a clean finger or back of patch to spread glue evenly in a thin layer. Do not apply too much glue. Glue layer should not appear &quot;glopped&quot; on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5.Allow glue to dry. This may take several minutes. Test by touching only perimeter area of glue, not where patch will contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.Peel patch from patch backing. Handle patch only by edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7.Center patch to hole and lay patch on tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.Apply pressure to patch, especially at edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9.If possible, maintain pressure for several minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10.Leave clear plastic cover on patch, do not peel up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11.Mount tube inside tire and inflate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; has a how to guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T19:51:41.383" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:51:41.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16551" CreationDate="2013-08-28T08:40:47.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fantastic ! Building a fixed gear conversion is a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tommy_o gives a great list of all the parts that go on a conversion, but when I try to imagine what it's like to have an old bike that you want to hack on, I think it's helpful to imagine what you'll have to &lt;em&gt;change&lt;/em&gt; about your bike, so I'll give that a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the existing bike is in decent shape, you actually have a lot of freedom in deciding whether to get new parts or reuse existing ones. At a minimum, though, you'll need a new rear wheel, and then from there it gets more and more up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Wheel&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either buy a wheel, or build one yourself. I've found that buying is actually cheaper, but I think it's a good exercise to build at least one yourself to see how it's done. Either way, like tommy_o mentioned, you'll need to pay attention to the size of the rim that you want to get. If your bike has 27&quot; wheels and you decide to get a 700c rear replacement, then you'll need to be ok with having different size wheels, or you'll also need to get a new front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to build, you'll need to buy :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spokes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;nipples&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rim tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need a spoke wrench, but that's a good tool to have around anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend reading a copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0960723668&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt&lt;/a&gt;. The obligatory Sheldon Brown link is also in this section, because his &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;description of wheelbuilding&lt;/a&gt; is a great read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hub&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the hub, there are indeed different sizes, both in terms of axle length and flange size. However, for the axle length, there are really only a few different standard sizes, so you should be good to go with a road hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the flange (which only matters if you're building a wheel), pretty much anything will do, but the flange will have a significant impact on the length of the spokes that you'll need. I always take my rim and hub to my local bike shop and get the folks there to cut spokes for me, since it seems like some sort of black magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Drivetrain&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got a new rear wheel, you need to connect it to the pedals. At a minimum this means you need a cog on the rear wheel (typically hubs do not come with cogs), but depending on what size you get, and personal preference regarding the chainring, you might also need a new chain and chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cog&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll definitely need a cog, the gear that goes on the rear wheel. You should also get a lockring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the cog is actually a little tricky, because it turns out there are two different widths of bicycle cogs, and they are not interchangeable. (There are actually two different widths of bicycle &lt;em&gt;chain&lt;/em&gt;, but the chain, chainring, and cog all need to work together.) The wider setup, usually seen on track bikes, is 1/8&quot;, and the narrower one is 3/32&quot;. Here you'll need to decide if you want to stick with the 3/32&quot; setup that's already on your bike, or move to the 1/8&quot; ; again, mostly this has to do with personal preference, but be aware that whatever you pick will affect your options for the other items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a flip-flop hub, you should probably get a freewheel cog as well as a standard thread-on one. Typically the freewheel cog has a higher tooth count than the fixed one, since you won't need to pedal like a rabid gopher while you're coasting downhill on your freewheel side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Chain&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll definitely need a new chain if you go with a 1/8&quot; drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it's a good idea just to get a new chain, even if you're sticking with the existing sizes. New chains are really nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Chainring and crank&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There'll already be a crankset on your existing bike, which can probably be used just fine for a conversion (provided it works with the chain/cog). There are a couple things to think about it however :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You should make sure that one of your existing chainrings has a tooth count that you can use with your rear cog. The important thing here is the ratio between chainring and cog : a lower ratio makes acceleration easier but limits your top speed. Also if you plan on skidding, it's easier with a lower ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the chainring you want to use is on the inside of your crankset, then you might want to remove the outer chainring so your pant leg etc. won't get torn up on it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on a fixed gear, the length of your crank could be important : If you're taking a tight corner, you might lean over far enough that the bottom of the crank scrapes the road as the pedal turns, which can lead to a wreck. You can get a crankset that has shorter arms to avoid this, though if you're not into tight cornering it might not be a problem. It's something to be aware of though, since you never really know when you might need to pull an emergency maneuver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Other stuff&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've gotten the rear wheel and drivetrain set up, you're technically good to go. You can opt to switch many other things on your bike, but chances are that it already has a seat, headset, fork, handlebars, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7741" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T08:40:47.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-28T08:44:45.620" Score="7" ViewCount="4373" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4479/patch-or-replace-tube?rq=1&quot;&gt;Patch or replace&#xA;  tube?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFB_PyoOrt4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; video asserts that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A properly patched area of a tube is stronger than intact tube area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never patch a tube more than 3 times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are seemingly contradictory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video is just and example and motivation for this question. I have often seem people discard tubes with several patches, after they are punctured again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is it true that after some number of patches to a tube, it is better to dump the thing? How many?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T11:24:10.547" Title="How many times to patch a tube before dumping?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-08-28T15:06:51.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17337" CreationDate="2013-08-28T09:23:25.743" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rule of thumb is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never patch a patch: when a puncture is too close to another patch so that the patches would overlap or almost, then I toss the tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never patch too close to the valve: the valve makes is a &lt;em&gt;structural anomaly&lt;/em&gt; in the butyl that makes the tube, so is a more sensitive area, not to mention all the air input comes from there so it is a &lt;em&gt;less stable&lt;/em&gt; area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toss a tube that has more than 8 patches... it is an arbitrary number but it is the one I set. Most of the times, when you reach that many patches, you will bump into one of the first two points,...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, when in trouble, when you have no spare tube, and you have a flat, patch it no matter what. That is a no-brainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A properly patched area might be stronger than the intact area since it fixes the hole, but apart from the hole, it adds some thickness to the tube so puncture resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will (almost) never puncture a patched area: the patch might fail, but you will not puncture the patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That downside of the patch is that it does not expand (or just very little) compared to the intact tube (try to inflate a patched tube outside of the tire, you will see the diameter is smaller in patched areas). So an overly patched tube will be less expandable in the tire than an intact one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This causes the whole physics of the tube inside a tire to be less perfect than it is conceived for; which is why you must not over-patch a tube (and solves the apparent contradiction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T09:23:25.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8502" CreationDate="2013-08-28T09:52:59.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now have gone with this Bike: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.simpel-ch.de/velos/ww/nuvinci_360/herrenvelo2012.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.simpel-ch.de/velos/ww/nuvinci_360/herrenvelo2012.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y3BcX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Simpl Wegwärts NuVinci n360&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have this bike for a year now and I am pretty happy with it. It does not allow very sportive riding, but it is nearly maintenance-less, since the chain is fully enclosed by the protector (which rattles sometimes). The rear rack allows mounting a Basket. I check the chain every 3 Months, and there are still no signs of rust or that the original oiling has diminished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transmission is very good for city riding and pulling a trailer up a hill, but not so good for going fast on roads (35 - 40 kph max possible if you have to pedal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes are also very good, the only maintainence required is filling them with some special oil, and they have no problem braking the bike going down a steep hill with a fully loaded trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has built in lightning that is very bright, with a hub dynamo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a photo of my bike in action, with full loading capacity of about 60 kg (30 kg on the trailer, 30 kg on the rack). Total cost of the Bike, as you see it here (with trailer and baskets and airzound) was 1500 €, Maintenance cost is around 30 € per year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I4hzI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is my bike in action&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastEditorUserId="1494" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T10:11:30.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T10:11:30.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17337" CreationDate="2013-08-28T11:24:10.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, I'd essentially agree with Tisek.  If the patches were very evenly distributed I could see going to 15 or even 20 patches, but they never are, and the uneven expansion that results puts additional stress on the tube and may also cause the wheel to be lumpy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with belted tires I get punctures so rarely that I figure a tube is getting too old after 3-4 patches.  (Especially since I always carry 2 spare tubes, one in my tool bag and one in my pannier, and rotate them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add that I'd never (except in an emergency) attempt to patch anything resembling a blowout (even a small one).  (Though I have been known to put a patch on the inside of a tire to &quot;boot&quot; a small puncture hole.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T11:24:10.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17333" CreationDate="2013-08-28T11:42:28.643" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many causes for price difference in bikes. There are others reasons than these listed below, but they tend to fall in line with one of these four categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Branding is always a premium. As in every industry I can think of, some brands have a reputation that to some extent justifies a premium price. This reputation is based off a multitude of sub factors, such as warranties, customer care, recognized build quality, athlete association and such. Top brands such as Trek, Giant, Bianchi, etc. have built up a reputation over the years of their existence that people deem worthy of a premium price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Materials&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials used in the frame (and also components, but more on that later) affect the characteristics of the bike, but due to the nature of high-tech processes, these come at a price. For instance, high-modulus carbon fiber performs better than cheaper carbon types. The pricier stuff is lighter, stiffer, stronger, more durable or some combination of the above. Likewise, carbon has superior performance properties compared to aluminium or lower still, steel. Within the scope of any one material (carbon, aluminium or steel) there are many sub-classes that will perform better or worse - and have a price to match. The two bikes listed exemplify this point - both are made from aluminium, but the more expensive bike is made from a higher grade (7005 as opposed to 6061). The more expensive option also has a carbon fork - an expensive but potentially worthwhile investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Components&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes most commonly come as complete units, with only super high-end models available as frame only builds. This means your money is covering all the components on the bike as well as the frame. Components make a big difference to the bike's performance, from weight or strength to durability or aesthetics. The componentry of your bike directly influences the way you use it. For instance, clipless pedals (such as Shimano's SPD system) determine the way you pedal. The bike listed have some important differences in componentry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheaper of the two has gear shifters separate to the brake levers. This is common on cheap road bikes, but in my opinion is incredibly annoying. Purists may argue that old bikes were made this way, but honestly, I find them almost dangerous due to the necessity for hand position changes every time you go to change gear or brake. Perhaps just a personal opinion, but worth considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other big component difference is the gruppo - the drive-train, gears, etc. On the dearer model we have a FSA Omega compact BB30 Crankset. While not the top of the line, I would assume that this particular set would be more reliable or better built that the otherwise unnamed model from the cheaper option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, before we get bored of details, the wheels are an important component to consider. More expensive options are sometimes made from carbon, but stepping down from the elite we still see performance features such as flattened spokes or radial spoke arrangements. The Equation R's on the Diamondback have radial spoke lacing, but the Vilano does not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Customization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the realms of the super elite, performance gains become harder to achieve, and the associated cost increases drastically. There appears to be some sort of law of diminishing returns at play - the price difference between a 20kg bike and a 19kg one may be $200, while it could well cost you $2000 to save a couple of grams of paint (not kidding - check out Trek's Project One customization site, specifically the 5gm Vapor Coat Paint. That's pricey!). Essentially, we reach a point in the spectrum of bikes that performance is so good, that other factors such as custom paint or gram savings through carbon brake levers and spacers become the only avenues for improvement. This uber-rich world of cycling is almost exclusively for the professionals and hence self-funds through sponsorships and such, but it is available for anyone lucky enough to have deep pockets and exorbitant taste!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So those are the main reasons for the price discrepancy. Hopefully that should educate your purchasing decision! Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T11:42:28.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17334" CreationDate="2013-08-28T11:49:37.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally leave the transparent plastic on, to help prevent the patch from sticking to the inside of the tire.  However, sometimes it just &quot;wants&quot; to come off, so I peel it off.  (I often use talc or roadside dust on the patched area to help prevent sticking, if the plastic won't do it, and I don't want to wait several more minutes for the glue to set.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re the glue set time, I've found it best to not wait for it to be completely dry before applying the patch.  (And it's only necessary to put glue on the tube, not the patch.  Though I have put it on the patch in a few odd circumstances I can't fully recall just now.)  If the glue is dry enough when the patch is installed, and if you're reasonably gentle, you can test-inflate and re-install the tube without additional waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locate hole&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Important: Note carefully where it is.  If you have a pencil or pen, put 4 marks about an inch away from the hole in 4 directions, so you'll know where the hole is.  (Don't mark directly where the patch will be, as this may interfere with adhesion, and try to stay outside the glue area, as the glue may obliterate the marks.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply a THIN layer of glue over and around the hole, spreading it out to at least 1/2&quot; beyond the size of the patch.  (If using a &quot;used&quot; glue tube, it's generally best to &quot;waste&quot; a few drops of glue on the ground before using, as the stuff in the end of the tube will be lumpy.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait until MOST of the glue turns from glossy to dull.  This should only take a minute or two if you've not applied too much glue.  I've found that if I wait too long (5-10 minutes) adhesion is not as good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the foil backer and apply the patch, centered carefully over the hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the patch into the tube.  Lay the tube on a flat surface and work back and forth (and up and down) on the patch with your fingernail or the end of a tire iron.  Be thorough and press fairly hard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test-inflate slightly, just enough that the tube begins to expand.  Examine the patch to be sure there are no loose edges (though a tiny loose spot or two along the edge is fairly common and not a problem).  Make sure there aren't any more holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deflate the tube just enough that it will easily fit back in the tire.  (A tube is easier to install correctly if partly inflated.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reinstall in the tire, starting with the stem.  Take care that the tube is not twisted or bunched up anywhere, and be gentle with the new patch (which will take 30 minutes or so to fully &quot;cure&quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reseat the tire bead and reinflate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T14:56:50.733" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T14:56:50.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-28T14:23:27.777" Score="5" ViewCount="17686" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old mountain bike and want to change to a Pashley style girlie bike. I use my bike to go to the shops, pop to places and go out and about with my dog running along side.  I find the seating position of my old bike very uncomfortable in all areas.  My concern is, Pashley style bikes only have a max of 7 gears and I currently have 21 gears, of which I only use maybe 4.  My speedo shows that I cruise between 5 - 15 mph on my old bike but I'm concerned how fast I can go on a bike with only 7 gears.  Is there any way of roughly working this out as I've not found a shop that will let you ride a bike at full speed before you buy it.  Thanks in advance, Sarah &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7962" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T16:40:30.550" Title="How fast can my bike go?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17343" CreationDate="2013-08-28T15:07:33.650" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various gearing calculators available on the web. Here is one of them: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top possible speed will depend on your gearing, wheel size, and max cadence. Of course, your ability to reach that theoretical top speed will be limited by your own strength and fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T15:07:33.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17348" CreationDate="2013-08-28T15:33:32.690" Score="0" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to illustrate that there are better and worse ways to apply brakes, here's an example of a less-than-ideal way: I was biking on a borrowed bike and getting used to the brakes. The front brake lever was squishier than the rear. After skidding out and landing my hip on a stump, which lowered morale significantly for the next half-hour or so, I learned to give the front brake a harder squeeze to compensate for the squish. This was on a mountain trail and at the urging of my biking companion on that day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this: How does one brake under certain circumstances? Are there times when all-front or all-rear braking makes sense, or is it always best to apply pressure somewhat evenly to both brakes, and are there different braking techniques on roads vs trails and such?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7415" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:36:47.630" Title="Correct way to apply brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;braking&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-08-29T13:25:20.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-28T17:52:45.277" Score="0" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the potential opportunity to buy a full carbon cross bike (fairly new Specialized Crux Pro, specs say around 17 pounds; not sure what it would be with pedals, etc.). I currently own (a mtn bike which is not part of this equation) a cruddy commuter, a Kona Jake 2010 (24 pounds!), and a Giant TCR2 2005 (21 pounds with aeros on). I race all of the bikes (ok, not the commuter), but my primary racing on the road bike is in triathlons where I throw on clip-on aerobars. My Jake weighs a ton, and I'd like to switch that over to being my commuter. But I also would like something a little lighter for my triathlons, and the compact geometry of the TCR2 doesn't work well with the aerobars. Would buying the carbon Specialized get me closer to my goals in one fell swoop (budget is very limited, but I'd get a second set of light road rims), or just get a new road or cross bike? I have some dream of someday buying a tri-bike, but that's a long way off. I'll also add that one of the things I really don't like about the Jake is that the brakes suck, and it can be downright scary on some trails. If it helps, I'm a female.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7964" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T05:10:37.537" Title="Upgrading road and cyclocross bike with a single carbon cross bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17345" CreationDate="2013-08-28T19:36:47.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To reduce your speed significantly while on dry roads, I recommend front brake first and hardest, because the front wheel will have most grip. If you only want to lose a little speed (but more than soft-pedalling), and gently at that, e.g. in a group riding situation to prevent others running into the back of you, then rear-brake only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On wet roads or loose surfaces you must avoid locking the front-wheel, so brake evenly and simultaneously front and rear. You have a chance of controlling a rear-wheel that is locked and skidding; that control is unlikely to extend to a locked and skidding front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is icy and extremely slippery, consider rear-brake only and don't go too fast to begin with!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:36:47.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17190" CreationDate="2013-08-28T19:51:39.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wobbling cassettes should be absent from, not present on, every bike. It is possible that the wobble is caused by worn splines on what might be a soft (aluminium, as opposed to steel) freehub. I myself recently blogged about such an issue at &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/HubTrouble&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/HubTrouble&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wobble might instead be a result of an incorrectly seated lock-ring, or a missing spacer from behind the cassette (in which case you might find this link of interest: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/CassetteIssues&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bit.ly/CassetteIssues&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:51:39.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16665" CreationDate="2013-08-28T19:58:43.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You asked: will changing the front to e.g. 39/52 setup make a noticable difference?&#xA;My answer is an unequivocal 'yes'. If you can however, consider 34 or 36-tooth inner and 50T outer, if you can find chainrings that fit your spider. TA make a large range of chainrings, however new ones will probably cost more than the monetary value of your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:58:43.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10274" CreationDate="2013-08-28T20:03:37.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think using a stem raiser may bring your handlebars to a position where you can ride upright. I used the  &lt;a href=&quot;http://deltacycle.com/alloy-stem-raiser-pro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;external link to delta cycle, an example&quot;&gt;a stem raiser&lt;/a&gt; on my cycle with road-style drop bars. This helped me achieve more upright position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is applicable to the cycles that you have, just make sure the stem diameters match the fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative solution would be to use an adjustable stem, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003KPN0LS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;external link to amazon, an example&quot;&gt;here is an example&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These options are cheaper than getting a new handle bar setup, unless you are specifically looking to change the handle bar style. The links above are used as example only, I am not affiliated to mentioned organizations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastEditorUserId="7416" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T20:19:06.763" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T20:19:06.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-28T22:07:35.873" Score="5" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started bike commuting, and the two times I've gotten flats were when I was biking on the sidewalk, and in both cases they seemed pretty random. I use a mountain bike. Is it just a coincidence or is there more to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7165" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T01:19:42.780" Title="Does riding on the sidewalk make it more likely to get a flat tire?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-28T23:39:19.823" Score="4" ViewCount="8338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently repurposing an old frame and replacing the drivetrain. If possible I'd keep the old 7 speed drive train the bike had together in case I ever find a use for it. The chain is an HG40 quick-link. There's plenty of info online about joining chains with quick-links but little about breaking and reusing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a trick to the quick link to separate the chain so it can be easily reused or do I just need to break it with a chain tool? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The install &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Chain/SI_0034B_001/SM-UG51/SI_0034B_13_v1_m56577569830604498.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tech Doc&lt;/a&gt; can be found here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T01:15:42.163" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T16:56:11.460" Title="How to remove a Shimano Quick-Link?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17353" CreationDate="2013-08-28T23:49:23.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's almost certainly more debris on the sidewalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidewalks are swept less often, and vehicle movement pushes debris off the travelled areas. You can more easily see the latter on wet days - there will be wheeltracks from motor vehicles with much wetter areas between. The worst areas are the edges of major roads, where debris gets pushed into the bike lane by passing motor vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my ride to work the most puncture-prone area is where the bike path crosses a major road - there's a shield wall between the road and nearby houses and at the break in that wall is a small space for people to wait before crossing. That acts as a dust trap for all the stuff thrown up from the road and is rarely or never swept. It's common to see broken glass, sharp metal fragments and even nails in this spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often carry a pair of secateurs and a small hand broom in my pannier so I can clear plants and debris from the bike path. It's a small amount of extra work but it helps a lot, especially on Monday mornings when the bike path often has broken alcohol bottles on it from the weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidewalk cycling is also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikexprt.com/bikepol/facil/sidepath/sidecrash.htm&quot;&gt;much more dangerous&lt;/a&gt; so should be minimised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T23:49:23.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17358" CreationDate="2013-08-29T04:41:43.243" Score="2" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to commuting in traffic, and I realized &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; that the left turn (US traffic rules, right turn in UK) in an intersection with a traffic light is just dangerous.  My basic questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I pretend I'm a car and get in line behind the last car waiting?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm forcing people to think of cyclist 'as another car' which is half the battle as far as I'm concerned.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt; I don't like sprinting against cars once green if the line is long.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cozy up next to the first car in line waiting for the light? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6521" LastEditorUserId="7829" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T05:12:46.127" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T11:46:28.630" Title="Safe and proper (or vice versa) left turn in traffic" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17346" CreationDate="2013-08-29T05:10:37.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;N + 1 is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; the answer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously though, if you're going to actually use it for cyclocross then I'd advocate buying it as this would be a &lt;em&gt;substantial&lt;/em&gt; upgrade.  Lugging 5+ pounds &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; of a bike over obstacles, up hills, etc, etc over the course of an hour means a ridiculous savings in energy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this upgrade your cyclocross bike (Kona Jake)?  Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this upgrade your road bike?  Doubtful.  The weight difference won't matter as much as the wheels/tires/cockpit/general configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it double as a tri-bike?  Doubtful.  Tri-bikes are just too specialized.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6521" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T05:10:37.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17356" CreationDate="2013-08-29T07:12:08.300" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proper and safest option is to 'claim' the lane and act as if you were a car by sitting in the turning lane. This ensures that you are visible to motorists and if you follow the road rules you are more likely to gain respect of those around you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a number of countries there are cyclist boxes in controlled intersections which offer even more security when sitting in front of traffic. In these instances you move to the front of the traffic during the red light phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some motorists who dislike this however and you need to be watchful (and mindful) of irrational drivers who may take offence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T07:12:08.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21268" CreationDate="2013-08-29T08:13:57.890" Score="5" ViewCount="2709" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the lowest end, we have the &lt;strong&gt;taper/square&lt;/strong&gt; interface. I believe it is standard i.e. there are no variations in the sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4EM3D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;image property of VP Components USA&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is the &lt;strong&gt;octalink&lt;/strong&gt;. Actually several kinds of it.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XFSnN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;image property of Sheldon Brown&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is &lt;strong&gt;HALLOWTECH&lt;/strong&gt;. Those seem to be the &quot;best&quot;.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xllmZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;image property of screambikes.eu&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What variations exist of those types and are they compatible with one another. For example, is a V1 BB compatible with V2 crankset?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What other interfaces exist?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Have I properly ordered them in increasing &quot;quality&quot;/&quot;high-endness&quot;?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T23:05:52.767" Title="What types of BB-axle to crankarms interfaces are there?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17356" CreationDate="2013-08-29T08:18:43.377" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hook_turn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Hook Turn&quot;&lt;/a&gt;,  under other names in different places. It is legal for cyclists in many places, but not all. I personally consider a far safer option then crossing lanes of heavy traffic and riding in the left hand lanes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially you remain in the right lane (US) and stop in front of the cars waiting to go across the intersection (in the direction you want to go). As soon as the lights turn green, you move off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T08:18:43.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8870" CreationDate="2013-08-29T08:27:17.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to Manitou website and there are two vendors that have the exact fit elastimers 53 for a kit and 10 for the extended kit.  That it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7969" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T08:27:17.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17356" CreationDate="2013-08-29T09:55:31.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't like to &quot;cozy up next to&quot; cars: I want car drivers to look where they're going, but I don't expect them to look next to themselves out their side windows, when they 'know' that there isn't enough room next to them for another car to be in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I'd recommend getting in lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's too dangerous to get into the left-hand turning lane (e.g. because you're relatively slow, it's multiple lanes in both directions, and/or you're &quot;new to commuting in traffic&quot;), then get off the bike and push it across the pedestrian crossing, as a pedestrian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're a more experienced/stronger rider, then you'll be better equipped for seemingly higher-risk manœuvers: but you need to live that long, so do whatever is safe for the present situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T09:55:31.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17353" CreationDate="2013-08-29T10:17:46.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess (I never ride on the sidewalk) that, if your tires aren't properly inflated then you may be more likely to get a &quot;pinch flat&quot;: because you'll be hitting and climbing kerbs more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when I got bored of getting flats during commuting, I changed my tires to (puncture resistant) 'Marathon Plus' touring tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T10:17:46.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17356" CreationDate="2013-08-29T11:46:28.630" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I say it depends on the intersection, the traffic, and your abilities.  The canonical approach is to &quot;claim&quot; the left-turn lane by positioning your bike in the center of it.  But if there's any traffic at all I will generally &quot;hang back&quot; at a signal-controlled intersection to let cars go first and give me some &quot;runway&quot;, choosing to &quot;claim&quot; the lane when it seems &quot;proper&quot; (which is a multi-factoral decision).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do several variations of the &quot;hook turn&quot;, the tamest being to ride across and stop at the far right corner, then dismount and cross as a pedestrian -- there is no shame in doing this if conditions warrant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In relatively light traffic, though, (especially if there's a turn lane and no one else is turning) the proper way is definitely the canonical way -- move to the center of the left-most lane and proceed as a &quot;vehicle&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T11:46:28.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2013-08-29T12:43:42.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand,a tape, such as Velox would be your best bet. This is a premium cloth tape that has a sticky backing to it, so as to hold it in place. If you've changed a few tubes and are using a plastic tape, you'll know what I mean when I say the tape has a tendency to move sideways on you. Like Dustin mentioned, you really only need a tape as wide as the &quot;spoke trough&quot;. Any wider and your tape may impinge on the seating of the tire bead to the rim. Hope that helps....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7975" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T12:43:42.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17372" CreationDate="2013-08-29T13:38:06.387" Score="5" ViewCount="9896" Body="&lt;p&gt;After referencing &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/540/how-do-i-know-which-size-and-type-of-rim-strip-to-buy&quot;&gt;How do I know which size and type of rim strip to buy?&lt;/a&gt;  I still couldn't use any of the answers to identify the correct width of rim tape to choose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Velox tape comes in narrow (10mm), wide (17mm) or ATB (22mm) sizes.  What rim widths or styles are each of these sizes appropriate for or how can I determine which width is appropriate to use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the same rules apply for very large rims either. Should I just use the largest size, ATB tape (22mm), on very wide rims like velocity blunt 35 (35mm wide) and dually (45mm wide)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T16:43:27.603" Title="How to choose rim strip width?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16837" CreationDate="2013-08-29T14:12:16.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is unsafe. You should find a set of tires that will allow you to seat the wheel properly into the drop out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T14:12:16.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-29T14:15:02.643" Score="11" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm searching for new tires for my MTB, but I'm lost with the many options available, even within a single brand (like Maxxis). Under &quot;Mountain&quot; category alone, Maxxis lists 22 diferent tires, every one with many variants by size, compound and bead, while the only visible difference for me is the tread pattern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that big knobs are better for mud, and small/none ones are better for hard surfaces, but how you translate the tread pattern (beside knob size) into handling characteristics? Can you look at a tread and says what it's good for? Is &quot;climbs and brakes with authority thanks to the opposing parallelogram center tread design&quot; (Maxxis Advantage) just marketing speak or it's for real?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastEditorDisplayName="user5369" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T15:24:02.203" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T10:14:05.583" Title="How to decode tread patterns?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15529" CreationDate="2013-08-29T14:17:07.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the derailleur still shifts normally, you may have nothing to worry about. It sounds like it could be a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does your rear wheel sit in a dropout, or is the length of the wheelbase adjustable front to back? If it's adjustable, it's possible that the wheel skewer bolt got loose and allowed the rear wheel to slide forward, causing excessive slack in the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your chain somehow stretched dramatically&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The spring in your derailleur is shot&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastEditorUserId="39" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T20:20:18.253" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T20:20:18.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17319" CreationDate="2013-08-29T15:42:55.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only 'theory' I can find is Steve Hed's, which is based on aerodynamic of wheels. See this article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slowtwitch.com/Products/Things_that_Roll/Hed_Ardennes_Gets_Fatter_3559.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.slowtwitch.com/Products/Things_that_Roll/Hed_Ardennes_Gets_Fatter_3559.html&lt;/a&gt; for example. While this sounds like it only make sense for road wheels, I can't find any theory against it on other type of wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like the best combination would be of the tyre to be as wide as the rim, so the tyre will 'look' straight to the air, e.g. 23 mm tyre on 23 mm rim. There are also tyres with 'lip' that should cover the gap between tyre and rim to make it even smoother. If you put 28 mm tyre on 23 mm rim, the tyre will create a bulge that will be visible to the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also makes tyre selection rather limited because rim sizes don't vary much, e.g. 23 mm rims only available a few years ago. Currently, I'm still using 19 mm tyres on my 18 mm wide rims. I'd love to get 23 mm wheels so I can use 23 mm tyres first because it's better, second because it's hard to find 19 mm tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Sheldon's page he also mentioned that many cyclist exceeded the recommended widths on his page without any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the rim being disc brake rim, I don't think it makes any difference because even if the rim was shallower, the wheel diameter stays the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T15:42:55.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17367" CreationDate="2013-08-29T16:43:27.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want the rim strip to just cover the flat bottom of the wheel. You just need to cover the spoke holes. If the rim strip is too wide it will climb up the sides of the wheel and potentially interfere with the tire bead seating properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T16:43:27.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17354" CreationDate="2013-08-29T16:56:11.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a different link than the Sram type of links. Here is a link to the directions I found that includes the HG-40 Quick link. Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Chain/SI_0034B_001/SI-0034B-001_13_v1_m56577569830625422.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Chain/SI_0034B_001/SI-0034B-001_13_v1_m56577569830625422.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T16:56:11.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-29T17:50:07.357" Score="1" ViewCount="5177" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9IZiY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear derailleur&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to replace my rear derailleur shown in the photo above. I don't know what kind it is and and I was hoping someone could tell me which cage it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7976" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T18:19:27.310" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T19:33:26.230" Title="I need help identifying my derailleur" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17374" CreationDate="2013-08-29T18:26:09.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't tell what type of derailleur you have from the picture. However, generally speaking if you match up the type of bike (e.g., road vs. mountain), the number of gears, and the brand, you'll be fine. There's some flexibility sometimes, but it's easier to just stick with something that definitely matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's clearly a mountain bike derailleur, I'd guess that it's an 8 or 9-speed Shimano. If you can edit in a better picture, we could almost certainly figure out exactly what it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T18:26:09.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17388" CreationDate="2013-08-29T18:54:20.663" Score="5" ViewCount="1247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought Shimano SPD pedals and MTB shoes recently. After riding for a while with cleats I decided to go back to regular pedals as I had trouble getting used to the SPDs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With cleats power is decreased dramatically. It's became much harder for me to stick with fast riding group.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After riding, muscles are aching.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's became more difficult to pick up speed at the start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely that's because others groups of muscles are working. However, more than one month passed and I feel like I am still much faster with regular shoes. With regular pedals I used to ride with middle of the foot over the pedal. That is the main difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing - uncomfortable feeling in my knees. However, cleats position are set up completely fine, according to multiple instructions and tutorials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering, if anyone have ever faced with same issue when starts to use cleats. What changes can you suggest trying to alleviate the problems I have described? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7978" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-08-30T03:47:17.483" LastActivityDate="2021-03-26T17:40:43.017" Title="Difficulties with cleat pedals" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18072" CreationDate="2013-08-29T19:37:47.157" Score="5" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the P.24. Sometimes I like to ride it on steep offroad downhills and keep it under control. Currently, my braking strategy is brake and bail if necessary. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://bmx-bikes.findthebest.com/l/576/2012-Specialized-P-24&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bmx-bikes.findthebest.com/l/576/2012-Specialized-P-24&lt;/a&gt; the brake is: &quot;Tektro FX-340 U-brake, melt forged, single bushing, coil spring, 15mm offset arms, soft compound pad&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just added a longer pad, that seems to help. What else might I try to get better performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some kind of mounting hole on my front fork. What brake could I mount on there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Q: &quot;Can you confirm whether the forks on the P.24 are drilled for side-pull brakes or have mounting bosses for 990/U brakes?&quot; A: &quot;The bike is really not designed to run a front brake. Last year we did spec some with a front U brake on the same fork, but they required a an adapter which we no longer manufacture.&quot; (From &lt;a href=&quot;http://specialized.desk.com/customer/portal/questions/507805-p-24-front-brakes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://specialized.desk.com/customer/portal/questions/507805-p-24-front-brakes&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Updates (8/30/2013):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I called Specialized. The person I talked to said that I could find a front brake that would probably work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I measured the hole as having a 6mm diameter and 35mm length.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4552" LastEditorUserId="4552" LastEditDate="2013-08-30T16:25:40.213" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T02:58:35.207" Title="Add front brake and/or improve back brake on 2012 Specialized P.24?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17374" CreationDate="2013-08-29T19:42:06.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @jimirings said its hard to tell from the photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To identify which derailleur you have there are a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If this is the original part on the bike use a site such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikepedia&lt;/a&gt; to determine what came on the bike as new.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look at the rear shifter pod, if this is SRAM it is more than likely it is a SRAM derailleur, if it's Shimano its more than likely SHimano, they are not generally compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Count the sprockets on the rear cassette, this is a good starting piece of information to help working out what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find any words on the cage, something is written there, google this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find any other writing on the derailleur and google this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailleur cage length is determined by largest chain ring and cassette cog. Once you know what derailleur will work you can calculate what cage length will suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can see from here, I'm guessing you're probably running something similar to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/sram-x4-rear-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T19:42:06.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17376" CreationDate="2013-08-29T19:46:08.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel fastest with clipless pedals. But you are not alone. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Which-Muscles-are-Really-Used-During-the-Pedal-Stroke-2012.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Which-Muscles-are-Really-Used-During-the-Pedal-Stroke-2012.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to ride with older style strap in pedals because I like to walk normally when I get somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also your shoes may not be adjusted to your pedals properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7814" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T19:46:08.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17436" CreationDate="2013-08-29T20:12:55.697" Score="6" ViewCount="10207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have constant clicking noise from the 2nd largest rear cog on my cycle. It starts as soon as I shift into the 2nd gear either from 1st or 3rd gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cable tension - all gear shifts are smooth and quick (both on stand and while riding).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limit screws are fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have cleaned/oiled the chain and wiped off excess lubricant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checked if any of the links are sticking/getting stuck to its adjacent link- they are not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visual inspection of teeth shows no excessive wear or bent teeth on any of the cogs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been unsuccessful in trying to locate the problem. I would be grateful for any pointers that will help in troubleshooting this problem.&#xA;I am learning to fix my bike and would like to avoid taking it to LBS if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information: Cogs are 9 speed with Deore derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2017-08-18T19:06:00.933" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T19:06:00.933" Title="Why is 2nd largest rear cog making clicking noise?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17376" CreationDate="2013-08-29T22:03:11.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For how often did you ride during this month? You describe quite novice errors. I've done the switch recently and I understand what you mean, but each time I was scared to do something with cleats or fell, I beared in mind the thought that I simply need to get used to them. Now I prefer cleats to flats, even I don't feel that 100% confident with them. Anyway, the reason for muscle pain is that you use another muscles now. Difficulty to get a quick start is only in your head, moreover cleats let you give exploding amount of power without being scary that your feet will spin too fast and you'll lose the pedals. Same thing about power. IMO you simply don't trust 'em, so I think you should give them another try (for two months at least, if you ride twice a week), and only then you will be able to get some kind of objective conclusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T22:03:11.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17377" CreationDate="2013-08-29T22:21:18.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get Odyssey cable &amp;amp; lever. It did magic to my BB5 5 years ago. This fork doesn't looks like it has brake mounts, so either get another fork or another (sick maybe) idea is to get actualy two bikes: MTB for offroad, 20 BMX for park and street. That's what I did eventualy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T22:21:18.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17369" CreationDate="2013-08-30T00:39:06.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not really a science to tread pattern the way you're hoping for. Sure, there are some basics that you've already caught on to. But there are many, perhaps infinitely many, variables involved in how a tire will handle once you get it into the real world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, most of the wording on a brand's web site is just marketing speak. Even so, you're better off just trusting what the manufacturer recommends the tire be used for ( downhill cx/ wet/mud/gravel etc ) rather than spending so much time picking apart the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make things easier on yourself, find someone you know that's done this before or ask this site for a recommended and reliable brand. Once you've got a brand you can trust, use their web site to narrow down your selection and just give some tires a try. You've got to start somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T00:39:06.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17376" CreationDate="2013-08-30T04:00:46.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly the &quot;uncomfortable feeling in my knees&quot; needs to be addressed and are a concern. You don't say how much and how long your rides are, but its warning that should not be ignored, more so if your rides are short (under about 2 hours). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What cadence are you riding at. With knee discomfort and being used to pedals in the middle of the feet, my guess is you are 'mushing' (slow pedal rate) rather than spinning. You cadence should site around 80RPM - typically faster for experienced roadies and slower for off road MTB. If its under about 60, it can cause knee pain. SPDs work better with higher cadence, so if you are mushing, there is unlikely to be much benefit. If you are a musher, it feels wrong to spin, but you need to for efficiency and your knees. the best thing to do is get out, hit a lower than normal gear and sit in it. Use your riding companions for a guide, ask them what they think - would/are they be in the same gear as you? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not mushing, or you start to spin faster and the knees don't come right, then the cleats are setup wrong. If you think they are right, try changing the angles a little and see if the knees come right. Be cautious, and look  after those knees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, flats are fine if you want to stick them. There is no law that says you have to use clip-less pedals, and not everyone benefits from them. If someone looks down on you because of flats, best option if you cannot ignore them is give them a lot of time to study your rear end on next ride..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T04:00:46.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2013-08-30T09:48:14.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poor traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the front wheel is bouncing up-and-down-to-the-rivers-of-Babylon, engaging the front brake is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ineffective at decelerating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reducing traction and increasing chance of slipping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the ideal case, of course. Use the front brake, but modulate it. When in the above-mentioned conditions just have in mind that the above results could happen from too much pressure on the front brake (basically if stopping &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; with the front brake).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The practical advice: at rough terrain, consider shifting the breaking balance a little to the back wheel (for example 60% front 40% back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T09:48:14.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6616" CreationDate="2013-08-30T11:35:24.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have hydraulic disk brakes: which feel like they could stop a truck; and I ride on paved surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I ever squeezed the front brake as hard as I could, I have no doubt that I'd flip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I squeeze both brakes semi-hard, e.g. for an emergency stop, then the back wheel starts to fish-tail. The back wheel will begin to skid before the front one ever will: because weight is thrown forward when braking, so there's more 'weight' on the front wheel than on the back, and friction or grip is proportional to downward force. The back wheel's beginning to skid is therefore a warning that too much weight is coming off the rear wheel, and so a warning not to be braking quite so hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back wheel's fishtailing slightly isn't too bad, when coming to a straight-line emergency stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once however I used both brakes, when going around a bend: and the back wheel slid out from under me, and I went down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now when I am braking while going round a corner, I only use the front brake: it's always less likely to skid than the back wheel is, and I find it hard to imagine it ever skidding at all (in the extreme it would be IMO more likely to flip me over the handlebars than to skid, except when the road surface is compromised by ice or dirt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T11:35:24.343" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17625" CreationDate="2013-08-30T12:47:13.630" Score="5" ViewCount="8972" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/contents/en-uk/d1099.html#p6912&quot;&gt;spokes are described&lt;/a&gt; as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;American Classic round spoke (butted 14/15 gauge; 2.0/1.8mm), black 286mm (without nipple).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this imply that the correct nipple to go with them would be 15 gauge? I assume that the thicker gauge is at the outer ends, if I've understood butting correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T15:04:57.520" Title="Spoke and nipple compatibility" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;nipples&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17376" CreationDate="2013-08-30T13:25:51.833" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm wondering, if anyone have ever faced with same issue when starts to use cleats. What changes can you suggest trying to alleviate the problems I have described?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I first started using cleats, I started to developed knee pain. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3221/how-much-rest-tendon-or-ligament-for-a-novice&quot;&gt;I asked about that here&lt;/a&gt;: you may like some of the answers. I discovered that in my case, the cause was the placement of my U-lock, which meant that my left leg travelled slightly further away from the top-bar than my right. Having the feet locked in place can cause problems (from repetitive strain). Some clips allow more freedom of motion than others. I fixed my problem by keeping my knees warm, and changing the location of the U-lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a year and a half (10,000 km) I discovered that I can run on my toes, without putting my heel down, which I couldn't before. My calves had become stronger. People whose only exercise is walking (or cycling with the pedal under their arch instead of under the forefoot) may not have strong calves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With cleats power is decreased dramatically. It's became much harder for me to stick with fast riding group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With cleats you can push in a circle, instead of just pushing up and down. For example when each pedal is at 12 o'clock, you can push it forwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I agree with using a lower gear and a higher cadence. If another cyclist overtakes me on my commute, I found that it's because I'm in too high gear: changing down one gear so that I can spin more quickly helps me keep up with them, i.e. it lets me deliver more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T13:40:08.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17376" CreationDate="2013-08-30T14:29:55.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, my knee pain was always fixed by sliding forward the seat (&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.tiscali.it/lozoccoloduro_bike/tecnica/piombo2antep.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this kind&lt;/a&gt; of alignment). In general, I would check your setup with someone experienced and reliable because there might be a lot of variables involved in this kind of aches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think most of the problems you're having are due to being used to pedaling with the arch of the foot. Your calves are weak and get to burn in such a way that you can't push with all the power of your thighs and buttocks, or at least it would make your ankles bend. I can't think of any other reason why clipless pedals would make you weaker, because they make you use more muscles so at least you should achieve the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see some comments that suggest that pedaling with the arch of the foot is not that bad. Well, for mountain biking it is, because with ankles and calves you absorb the higher frequency (i.e. smaller) bumps, because of their shorter levers I guess. I feel much less in control if staying on the pedal with the arch of the foot, just because of that. OTOH, the &quot;regular&quot; position will make your calves burn until they're not trained, above all in descent, but at least in my case, it was pretty satisfying seeing them growing before my eyes! (obviously the training should be progressive to avoid inflammation of tendons and muscles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Train you calves and get used to pedaling the &quot;regular&quot; way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2013-09-02T00:26:38.587" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T00:26:38.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17343" CreationDate="2013-08-30T16:27:38.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're just riding around the city, stopping frequently, and even expecting your dog to run along side, a Pashley bike will go &quot;fast enough&quot;. Step-through bikes are intended expressly for that kind of riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only consideration I would give to gearing is whether or not the gearing is LOW enough for the types of hills that you'll encounter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, for example, you live in Philadelphia there are virtually no hills and a single speed bike is perfectly fine. If you live in Pittsburgh, you'll want consider having at least some gears for climbing those hills. Your candidate bike has 7. That will be plenty of choices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2009/10/review-of-lucy-3-speed-raleigh-ladys.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;old Raleigh's traditionally had three speeds&lt;/a&gt; and this was/is good enough for all casual urban riding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T16:27:38.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17343" CreationDate="2013-08-30T20:46:11.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a simple measurement, look at the size of the chain ring (the big gear that the pedals attach to). If it's bigger than the biggest one on your current bike, you'll &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; be able to go faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chain ring on the new bike is about the same size as the biggest one on your current bike, look at the little gears on the rear wheel. If the &lt;em&gt;smallest&lt;/em&gt; one is about the same size as the &lt;em&gt;smallest&lt;/em&gt; one on your bike, then then new bike will have about the same top speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the new bike's chain ring is smaller than the one you have now, it will &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; be slower, unless it has a much smaller gear on the rear wheel as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T20:46:11.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-31T00:37:32.857" Score="6" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will have to change my wheels on my old trusty late-80s Peugeot (PS28) soon. The rear wheel is mounted with a freewheel-type 6-speed hub (not cassette).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if all ready-made wheels that you can buy are only cassette compatible (therefore 7-8-9 speeds)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My derailleur is Shimano 105 with mixed friction/indexed mode, mounted on the tube, I suppose it is only designed to support an indexed 6 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A LBS told me I could only change the rim of the wheel given the hub is in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you suggest would be the best way to approach this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7990" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T01:13:21.297" Title="Are all ready-made wheels sold &quot;cassette compatible&quot; only?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17369" CreationDate="2013-08-31T08:27:33.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask the guys you ride with and also complete strangers you meet on the trail, what they use and why. My guess is 9/10 times it was on the bike already, or it was on special. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden for years, have a range of tires I have tried. Some I have liked better than others, mostly its a trade between speed, traction for braking and acceleration (not my strongest point anyway) and cornering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tire is a compromise of the following &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight line performance (one and/or both directions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cornering (Predictability and maximums)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puncture resistance &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to this the types of terrain being ridden (the list gets bigger)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rock &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirt &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sand (soft)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard pack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pavement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then add &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a casual weekend warrior like me, you got to the LBS, ask them for a tire for the trails you regularly ride (which they should know) and hope they gave you something half decent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-08-31T08:27:33.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-31T17:18:47.937" Score="6" ViewCount="1633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what the purpose of the braze-on pictured below is? It's on the non-drive side of my fork. I thought it could have something to do with racks, but then I figured they would put one on both sides.  It could be used for a cable-guide for disc brakes, but my fork doesn't have disc tabs.  It seems like it's situated too low to be a cable guide for V-Brakes.  The bike is a touring bike, and the fork does have rack mounting holes, if that will give any clues to it's use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the factory fork from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://2011.devinci.com/bikes/browse_6#6_23_87&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2011 Devinci Caribou&lt;/a&gt;. I think I've seen disk versions, but they are older, all their newer ones have cantilevers, no option for disks. It's not threaded, and there is no split.  I may just be a wire-guide for whatever you choose to use it for, like a dynamo or speedometer. However, I think most wired speedometers are hard wired between the sensor and the computer, so I don't know how you would thread the cable through with the hardware on each end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLty9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of Fork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2013-08-31T23:28:18.843" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T00:01:28.040" Title="What is the purpose of this braze-on?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;braze-on&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17403" CreationDate="2013-08-31T19:22:22.050" Score="4" ViewCount="4935" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I recently got an old Favorit road bike (made in Czechoslovakia) and started restoring it. In order to give the frame a new coat of paint, I need to strip it down from everything.)&#xA;I'm stuck with the quill stem. I'm not sure how to remove it because it's impossible to just pull it out and there are no screws holding it. There is this long screw about 7 inches long that I took out but it doesnt seem to affect anyway the quill stem. So how can I remove it (if it's even possible)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7993" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T03:19:29.403" Title="How do I remove a quill stem?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-31T22:22:08.123" Score="1" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to travel medium distances on country highways with high speeds and narrow shoulders and need a sturdy inexpensive bicycle that works well off-road and on. I also plan to attach a large basket. A friend of mine recommended Schwinn but they look difficult to maintain and fairly expensive. Amazon makes you surf based on brands and the ad copy doesn't give any good information. Can someone give some recommendations please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7997" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T04:19:08.563" Title="Looking for a commuter bike, What should I look for?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5412" CreationDate="2013-08-31T22:42:40.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could put a padlock through the crank for extra security, so when the crank is turned it would hit the derailer or get trapped in the chain. Extra security of any kind will reduce the likelyhood of theft!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7998" LastActivityDate="2013-08-31T22:42:40.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17398" CreationDate="2013-09-01T03:06:17.997" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My thinking is that it is a brazed on guide for dynamo hub wiring. A touring bike like the Devinci Caribou would likely have provisions for things like dynamo lighting (I think that it'd be more likey that this was the case than someone erroneously adding a disc brake cable guide on a non-disc fork.) Typical braze-ons look like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ff4HV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dyno Braze On 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QxcdT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dyno Braze On 2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pmIu8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dyno Braze On 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there are a few different types. Some look like brake housing guides while others are unmistakably for flexible wires from a hub generator. As per the question of whether dynamo hubs have wires on one side or the other, I searched through &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/wiringinstructions.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peter White's endless information on dynamo lighting&lt;/a&gt; and learned that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have an older SON28 hub with a black painted center section, SONXS, SONXS100, SON20R or SONdelux it makes no difference which way you align the hub in the fork. And with the new SON hubs from 2012, you again have the freedom to place the hub in either orientation. The conectors can be on either side of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just for Schmidt dynamo hubs, but I'd imagine that there are examples elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T03:06:17.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17399" CreationDate="2013-09-01T03:19:29.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Return the bolt. You need to turn it out only for a half inch, then easily strike it with a hammer. (Don't make a strong strike, to not drive in the quill stem if it rusted!) Usually it will be enough, Yet it can be a little rusted, so hitting with your hand on the handles will help. Sometimes it's very rusted, so you will need to use some oil to deal with it. Very rarely it rusted so much, that nothing will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T03:19:29.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9815" CreationDate="2013-09-01T11:50:38.203" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to a video that may help you: &#xA; &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/E7j9LUVJrjA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this technique all you need is a piece of corrugated cardboard and some chalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8001" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-09-01T19:49:21.443" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T19:49:21.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-01T17:54:15.177" Score="3" ViewCount="5566" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be daft but can I change an internal hub for a derailleur option. I have an old bike which is slow but I do love it. I want to upgrade my running gear but the &quot;chassis&quot; is still tip-top. I don't want to loose my beloved but am sick of the three speed granddad option. I'm aware that this might not be possible but any help you chaps can offer would be great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8003" LastActivityDate="2019-12-04T03:27:27.650" Title="Can I change a 3speed sturmey archer to a derailleur system?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17425" CreationDate="2013-09-01T18:39:18.887" Score="3" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on my second inner-tube in as many weeks and the culprit seems to be the same between them; these diagonal marks on the side around the whole of it&amp;mdash;but only on one side (sorry, didn't make a note of what side that was when removing it &lt;code&gt;:(&lt;/code&gt;).  Some are shallower, some deeper; the second picture below is the one that was actually leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I took it in to my LBS the guy said I pinched the tube with the tire bead when installing it, but I have a hard time imagining that I somehow managed to pinch the entire tube all along one side, in such a regular pattern (the marks repeat regularly, every 1&quot;), twice in a row.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't call myself a bike expert, but I have, from time-to-time, replaced tubes; did my front wheel and it's been fine for months.  Did I just get lazy/cavalier in my tube installs or is there some other explanation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rSAnb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rSAnb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diagonal marks in side of inner-tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qSyD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qSyD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close-up of marks on an inner-tube; this one was actually leaking&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6561" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T00:08:25.007" Title="What are these diagonal marks on my innertube?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17408" CreationDate="2013-09-01T19:26:48.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That does look like scuff marks from installing it, but I agree you wouldn't find them all the way around.  It may be the tube was twisted and when you inflated it, it untwisted and scraped itself against the bead.  Try dusting your inner tubes with talcum powder before installing them.  The talc will lubricate the tube and allow it to move freely against the tire and rim without scuffing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-09-02T23:07:19.400" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T23:07:19.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17408" CreationDate="2013-09-01T22:03:35.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a picture of the inside of the wheel you are running them on and the tires you run? I think you'll find the same pattern there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably what is called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycling.about.com/od/glossarydefinitions/g/pinch_flat.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pinch flat&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T22:03:35.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17412" CreationDate="2013-09-01T22:43:48.253" Score="2" ViewCount="4061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently putting a bike together with recycled parts and want to get away with not having to purchase a new gear wire. On my first attempt to thread the RD wire I ended up fraying it, cutting off too big a length and having to purchase a replacement. The old FD wire is too short so I want to switch the wire from the right to the left shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New cables are cut and 'sealed' in a way that they're easy to thread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a used wire what is the best way to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut the wire to prevent fraying?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thread the wire through the cable outers and end caps without fraying?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is relatively simple to thread the cable through the entry end cap and outer but even with removing the exit end cap it is difficult to thread through the last cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="1922" LastEditDate="2014-11-27T22:58:48.010" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T22:58:48.010" Title="How to thread gear cables through outers and end caps?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17411" CreationDate="2013-09-02T00:14:51.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I purchased a cable cutter, I found the following method worked acceptably. After determining the cable length make a small mark with a permanent marker. Apply a small drop of superglue to the mark. After the glue dries, cut the cable with a pair of electricians pliers. The glue keeps the strands from unraveling. This still leaves the problem of cutting the outer cable housing cleanly. The pliers do not work to cut the housing. It gets crushed before it cuts. I used an air powered 3&quot; cut off wheel. If you have to purchase either of these tools you are close if not above the cost of a Park Tool or other quality brand cable cutter.  Some times the best tool for the job, is the right tool .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2013-09-02T04:32:14.293" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T04:32:14.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17411" CreationDate="2013-09-02T08:27:19.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just need a good cutter, to cut the cable - it must be strait at the end. Also get attention, that the wire is clean and perfect, have no flattened places, and isn't ripped in some place in the middle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The outer also must be strait (usually you will want to cut the ends of the outer - they like to rip at ends). You also can feel it while inserting the wire into the outer, if it stuck in some place. On the outer ends (if cut) check, that the iron isn't bent inside, as it will impede the wire. Don't forget to oil the outer before inserting the wire.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This way you always can insert the old rear wire to forward gear or breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T08:27:19.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-02T10:31:46.173" Score="4" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a part common to all bikes that resides by the right-hand pedal that holds the front sprockets upon which the chain grips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that this part contains the sprocket or sprockets on to which the chain grips. I'm aware that this part will often contain the right pedal arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of the name of the part itself. What is this called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking as I have one that is slightly bent. I'm looking for the correct terminology to better find out how one might best return this part to its non-bent state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part to which I'm referring look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jl5u9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8006" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T01:59:00.097" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T01:59:00.097" Title="What is the name of the part by the right-hand pedal on to which the chain grips?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15914" CreationDate="2013-09-02T10:45:28.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepro.com/products/freewheels/shimfw.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikepro.com/products/freewheels/shimfw.html&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are thirty-eight 3.0mm inner steel ball bearings used in the inner bearing assembly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8006" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T10:45:28.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17415" CreationDate="2013-09-02T10:50:12.050" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The entire assembly is called the &lt;strong&gt;crankset&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ring with the teeth is called the &lt;strong&gt;chainring&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankset consists of the &lt;strong&gt;crank arm&lt;/strong&gt;, the &lt;strong&gt;spider&lt;/strong&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;chainrings&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;The chainrings bolt onto the spider which is the multi-armed piece connected to the crank arm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right crank arm and spider are often one piece. Lower-end cranksets are forged or riveted together, while higher-end (like the one shown in the question) are bolted. With bolted cranksets one can exchange only the chainrings; with monolitic ones the whole assembly has to be replaced once the chainrings are worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2013-09-02T14:27:41.723" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T14:27:41.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17422" CreationDate="2013-09-02T18:00:17.893" Score="2" ViewCount="16867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to biking only doing it since the past 3 months. I don't use my front gears much since i'm pretty tall and lower gears means going at a very high cadence for little output. so wondering if i could remove the derailleur. Does this create any problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5160" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T17:02:49.667" Title="I want to remove my front derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-02T20:02:20.677" Score="17" ViewCount="11702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently changed the original tyres and inner tube of my 15 year old Specialized Rockhopper. They were starting to deteriorate and I got punctures almost every time I took it on gravel paths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I take them to the local recycle centre, I just wondered if there were any alternative domestic uses for these old tyres and the inner tube? Can they double as something else for gardening or domestic uses? Can they be fashioned into fiendishly simple kids toys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7992" LastActivityDate="2021-01-02T09:45:57.740" Title="Any alternative use for old mountain bike tyres and inner tube?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17420" CreationDate="2013-09-02T20:22:31.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One use for old inner tubes is for securing bikes to car bike racks (non-roof type). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is simple, quick and won't scratch your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tie one end on to rack you can use the other end to loop: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;through the wheel to hold the wheel in place &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;through the frame to secure the bike on the rack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then pull the tube tight and hook it back to the rack to get it very tight and secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes putting the bike on the rack quick and more simple without having to muck around with rachet ties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T20:22:31.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17418" CreationDate="2013-09-02T20:31:51.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would fix the derailleur on the gear you prefer (perhaps middle one, to get most of rear gear properly working) as the derailleur don't interfere to leg movement. Take in mind that in few months you can change your mind and start using front gears too.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Edit: To remove it you will have to unbar the chain, then open the screw (9mm wrench or 4mm alem depends on derailleur model) on other side of the derailleur. Then return the chain to place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="7999" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T05:48:24.903" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T05:48:24.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17418" CreationDate="2013-09-02T22:56:39.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, sure, it can be removed, but let's look at the pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A trivial weight reduction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You lose a whole range of gears intended for climbing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You lower the bike's resale value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could reduce weight even more by simply losing a few grams of weight yourself.  So unless you live in a place with no significant hills and never plan to sell the bike, it makes no sense to remove it.  Just put it on the big chainring and leave it there.  The presence of a derailleur costs you nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T22:56:39.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17408" CreationDate="2013-09-03T00:08:25.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are scuff marks from running the tire flat (or nearly so), and/or from a tire whose sidewall is breaking down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One suspects that underinflation played a significant role in this tire failure. If you can see &quot;ripples&quot; in the side of the tire while you ride it, it's way under-inflated.  One wall of the tire will tend to fail before the other, based on the rotation and the diagonal cord alignment. The spacing corresponds to where the tire rippled as you rode it -- it repeats in the same location on each rotation since the sidewall gets softer and softer there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T00:08:25.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17420" CreationDate="2013-09-03T00:11:57.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use tubes to make U-locks (or anything) less prone to scratching your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My U-lock's base has bare metal which scratches my frame.  I cut the circular tube to make it one straight tube.  Then I lay one end along the metal of the base of the U-lock.  Then I wrapped it tight around itself as if I was wrapping handlebar tape.  Then on the last wrap I left it slightly looser so I could put the loose end underneath the last wrap and then I pulled it tight.  It stays put fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can slip a section of tube over the &quot;U&quot; of the U-lock and then roll up the ends (like shirt sleeves) so it keeps it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T00:11:57.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17407" CreationDate="2013-09-03T01:29:55.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most three speed internal hub wheels are physically very different in configuration from derailleur (external gear changer) style wheels. Internal hub wheels are fairly symmetrical side to side, but on wheels used on derailleur equipped bikes, the spokes are nearly flat on the gear side and dished on the opposite side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add a rear derailleur, you would need a complete new rear wheel.  There is also the issue of a hanger for the derailleur. Most bikes with internal hubs do not have one. It may be possible to braze one on, but that is complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding multiple chainrings in the front is a problem because you still need a chain tensioning mechanism, which is usually done by the rear derailleur mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes three speed hubs are added to bikes that are designed for derailleur systems (to multiply the number of gears) but rarely the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider saving the old trustworthy for leisurely rides and investing in a new multispeed bike for more intense activities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4488" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T01:29:55.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-03T05:33:35.790" Score="4" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with an old set of second hand drop-bars, that have rear/upper bar brake levers, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQjHZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;drop-bard brake levers with upper bar levers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking around at modern drop-bar brake levers, and it seems like no-one manufactures levers like this any more. Why is that? It seems odd, since they give you two extra bar position with brakes in reach (on the flat, and high on the curve, which is really comfortable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4064" LastEditorUserId="4064" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T10:10:03.490" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T10:10:03.490" Title="What happened to rear levers for drop bar brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-09-03T13:48:52.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17420" CreationDate="2013-09-03T05:59:19.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One more way to use inner tubes is to put them inside the tire to add further protection against thorns to your new inner tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T05:59:19.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17466" CreationDate="2013-09-03T06:20:30.660" Score="4" ViewCount="7537" Body="&lt;p&gt;How high on the curve of the drop bars should brake levers be placed? Also, how does the angle of the drop bars affect the brake position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these settings are dependant on body shape and physiology, is there a way to work out the optimum position for a given person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4064" LastEditorUserId="4064" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T10:12:55.910" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T23:47:30.810" Title="How high should brake levers be on drop bars?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17387" CreationDate="2013-09-03T09:08:31.837" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;With wire (and spokes) a larger number for gauge is a smaller diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why the metric conversion seems the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14 / 2mm is the larger diameter here, and yes, it's at the ends, or rather, the hub end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straight spokes are straight, single butted are thicker at the hub end, double are thicker at both ends, and triple butted are thickest at the hub end, narrow in the middle and slightly thicker at the nipple end. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels.html#spokes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Says Sheldon.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXfbq.png&quot; alt=&quot;A Wire Gauge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-10-14T21:28:54.980" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T21:28:54.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17420" CreationDate="2013-09-03T09:36:21.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used bits of old tubes to improve the wrist seals of my drysuit for kayaking - a 1 inch slice over the wrist seals straps them down tight, so water doesn't get in when I bend them (I have small wrists for my height apparently).  A bit specialised, I admit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T09:36:21.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17420" CreationDate="2013-09-03T11:02:02.177" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tubes are extremely &lt;strong&gt;flammable&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carry a tiny pouch of cut in stripes rubber when backpacking, if things get ugly and I need to light a fire in damp/wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously - they burn like gunpowder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Reality Check.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Yesterday morning I wanted to start a fire after a light rain. I picked up dry tree branches (from trees, not the ground). Then put about 5cm of tube cut into thin stripes underneath. Touched them with a lighter and was cooking breakfast right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-09-08T04:40:19.783" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T04:40:19.783" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17407" CreationDate="2013-09-03T12:27:35.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than braze on a mount for a derailleur hanger if you don't have one, you could (almost certainly) use an adaptor claw like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/derailers-rear.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/derailers-rear.html&lt;/a&gt; (search for &quot;Adaptor claw&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/shimano-megarange-tourney-tx-rear-derailleur-with-claw-3189.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://harriscyclery.net/product/shimano-megarange-tourney-tx-rear-derailleur-with-claw-3189.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm assuming you have horizontal dropouts, since it's an old three speed bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to upgrade the hub gears to new hub gears with smaller steps between gears and a wider range than the existing 3 speed, like a Shimano Nexus or Alfine 8 speed or Alfine 11 speed, or even the Rohloff 14 speed. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/internal-gears.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/internal-gears.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T12:27:35.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17380" CreationDate="2013-09-03T15:25:58.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be one of a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear derailleur is not center aligned on the rear cog when in that gear. Take a look at the cog and derailleur gear alignment dead on from the rear when in the noisy gear and look for vertical alignment. If it is misaligned it can be ajusted with the barrel adjuster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain is not clearing the front derailleur guard when in this gear. Look at it from the top down when in the noisy cog and ensure no rubbing between the chain and derailleur guard. If there is rubbing the limit screws can be adjusted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cog is damaged in some way causing some sort of misalignment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the first two possibilities is that I'd expect the noise to persist in the 1st cog as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastEditorUserId="39" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T17:42:09.193" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T17:42:09.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17420" CreationDate="2013-09-03T18:55:25.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most common uses of old tubes that I've seen/used is to wrap your drive-side chainstay with one. It's cheaper than buying a dedicated protector and it's readily replaceable. Just cut the tube somewhere and wrap it around the chainstay, and then secure it with either zip ties or some tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another fun idea is doing a ghetto tubeless setup where you've got anywhere from a whole inflated tube, to just have the tube as a liner inside your tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T18:55:25.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17420" CreationDate="2013-09-03T19:23:02.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently came across belts made out of used bicycle tires. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Tire-Tread-Belt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiki article on how to make a belt using bike tire tread&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n97Dr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastEditorUserId="7416" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T18:30:20.280" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T18:30:20.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-03T21:08:01.143" Score="3" ViewCount="3405" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello It seems that the stock 52t chainring for a road triple ultegra 9 speed is on  back-order or has been discontinued. Is there a replacement that will fit and shift? &#xA;This is for my wifes Trek and she is not one to be told &quot; Just baby it a little on the up shift &quot;  Thanks in advance for any and all help in this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8020" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T12:47:06.600" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T12:47:06.600" Title="Replacement for 52 tooth chainring Ultegra triple ( 6503 ) 9 speed" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17168" CreationDate="2013-09-03T21:19:24.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I met this guy in Ecuador in 2011 and he's still going strong, almost at 50,000 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://theslowwayhome.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://theslowwayhome.blogspot.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T21:19:24.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17474" CreationDate="2013-09-03T22:30:42.793" Score="6" ViewCount="2425" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend is about to buy a second-hand &lt;a href=&quot;http://dahon.com/mainnav/folding-bikes/single-view/bike/vitesse_d7hg-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dahon Vitesse D7HG&lt;/a&gt; with the usual 20&quot; wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since she knows nothing about bike mechanics, doesn't want to learn, and that bike has a Nexus 7 hub gear system, it's probably a good idea to go for puncture-resistant tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I go ahead and get a couple of Schwalbe Marathon Plus, are there other brands I should know about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2922" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T19:06:36.253" Title="Puncture-proof 20&quot; tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2015-01-15T20:39:12.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17168" CreationDate="2013-09-03T23:24:30.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crazy Guy on a Bike&lt;/a&gt; sounds like just one blog but is actually many blogs with lots of touring information. The interface is kind of minimal like Craigslist but there is a lot of content there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5221" LastEditorUserId="5221" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T23:29:33.943" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T23:29:33.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17168" CreationDate="2013-09-03T23:37:46.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The owner of &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikemart.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Richardson Bikemart&lt;/a&gt; in TX is just now wrapping up a long tour. Here is their blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rhondaandjimstravel.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://rhondaandjimstravel.blogspot.com/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T23:37:46.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-04T01:11:31.680" Score="2" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a 91 Rb-1 50cm down tube and 53cm top tube but the reach is a little short. A new stem was my best option so I picked one up. the height of the stem seems too long visually for the head tube but feels better. I understand the handling may be a bit different but would like to know if its safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8021" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T02:43:00.473" Title="Can a long stem be used safely with a short head tube?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17445" CreationDate="2013-09-04T02:43:00.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the quill stem is in the steerer tube at or past the minimum insertion length then mechanically this should be safe regardless of the height above head tube. This is assuming that the bike is still running a threaded headset and quill stem and the headset was correctly fitted with the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't comment on the effect on handling and how safe the bike is to ride now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great bike by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T02:43:00.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-04T05:18:39.007" Score="5" ViewCount="1246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m a plus sized female (about 135 kg, 295lb, 5'7&quot;) from NYC and I’m looking to get into bike riding again. I haven’t ridden a bike since I was about 12 years old and I loved it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m looking to purchase a bike I can ride in central park or just about any park here in the city. I don’t know where to start. All I know is I don’t want to pay 700 dollars (531.68 pounds) for a bicycle at this time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do? Is it possible for a supportive bike? I’m concerned about tires and flats. I don't know much about bikes since it’s been so long but I’d appreciate all the advice you people can give me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8025" LastEditorUserId="7072" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T20:29:57.883" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T20:29:57.883" Title="What kind of bike should I get to accomodate me?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17449" CreationDate="2013-09-04T06:51:05.793" Score="7" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have accidentally removed the suspension fork from my bicycle (Trek Remedy 8). I was trying to take off just the handlebar, but was distracted for a moment and unscrewed the wrong bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How safe would it be to assemble it back without going to my LBS (it will probably take them some much time, and I would not like to miss riding on my weekend)? I have no experience in suspension fork servicing; my idea is just to use common sense to screw parts back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem that the fork has any ball bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastEditorUserId="4056" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T09:15:45.293" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T09:15:45.293" Title="I have accidentally removed a front suspension fork - what now?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17448" CreationDate="2013-09-04T08:52:58.367" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/za/en/bikes/mountain/technical_trail/remedy/remedy_8/#/za/en/model/details?url=za/en/bikes/mountain/technical_trail/remedy/remedy_8&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is your bike and you really mean that you've removed the fork from the bike as disassembling the fork isn't really something you do by mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specs I found say that you've got a threadless stem and sealed bearing headset. This is easy to reattach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3 or 4 bolts you need to be concerned with. One right at the top, that goes through a metal disc about an inch and a half wide. This is the preload bolt . Also, on your stem there will be either 2 or 3 that clamp the stem to the top of your forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reassemble, find the following bits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 x sealed bearings, one for the top and one for the bottom of the head tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stem cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preload blot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Split washer (sometimes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spacers (often)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by inserting the bearings into the cups in the top and bottom of the head tube.&#xA;Next slide the forks up through the head tube, add the split washer, spacers, stem, top cap and preload bolt. In that order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tighten everything down with the preload bolt so there is no unwated play. Rock the bike backward and forward, with the front brake on, and make sure there is no knocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there is no play, straighten the stem and tighten the clamp bolts. Afterwards I usually loosen the preload bolt to finger tight, but some people don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ta-Da! One fixed bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T08:59:36.067" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T08:59:36.067" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17447" CreationDate="2013-09-04T13:36:45.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are getting back into cycling, and have a lot of questions, you may want to find a good bike shop close to you. You can try out different bikes, and they can help fit the bike to you, which will make a huge difference in comfort. Even if you buy a used bike from craigslist, you would likely want to take it to a shop for a proper fitting and maybe a tune up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the type of bike, I would suggest hybrid / city bikes. They allow you to site upright, and are easy to ride. You may also want to consider mountain bikes, since they are widely available used and are inexpensive. Here is a similar question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3653/i-am-about-to-buy-a-new-bicycle-what-should-i-check-before-i-do-so&quot;&gt;I am about to buy a new bicycle - what should I check before I do so?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your concern about flats, it shouldn't be too big of a problem for you. If you keep the tires inflated to the recommended level (a floor pump is well worth the money), and ride on the surfaces you describe, you should not have any problems. You will still get the occasional flat (it's just a fact of cycling), so be prepared to either patch it or walk home / to a bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T13:36:45.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17447" CreationDate="2013-09-04T13:39:59.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really seem to have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) As a heavier person, what should I look for when buying a bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This has been handled a couple of times here, but the core answer is to stick with middle of the market components. If you buy low end, the components are poorly made and will break easily. If you buy high end, they will likely be ultralight, and designed for lighter riders and will break easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bikes you will find in a reputable bike shop will be sufficient. In particular, I would look for wheelsets with traditional 3-cross spoke pattern - radial laced wheels will likely have more problems under heavy load. Something like a &quot;hybrid&quot; or a flat-bar road bike would work, as would a hard-tail mountain bike with slick tires if you are sticking primarily to roads a paved paths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information look at these questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/9092/213&quot;&gt;How to find a mountain bike that can handle a heavier rider.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/10434/213&quot;&gt;What should a big guy look for when buying a road bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) As a heavier person, how can I get a decent bike for under $700?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;We generally don't give recommendations for specific bikes and brands because that information goes out of date quickly. That said, I would second the comment by Daniel and recommend that you look for a used bike. You should be able to find an excellent used bike that would meet your needs as a beginner for around $500 and likely less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at this previous question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/743/213&quot;&gt;What should I look for when buying a used bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide you really don't want to bother with finding a used bike, I would strongly suggest you go to your local bike shop, tell them the kind of riding you want to do, and tell them your budget. Take a couple test rides, and ride a bike a step or two above your budget to get a sense of what the trade-off in price will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T13:39:59.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17461" CreationDate="2013-09-04T14:27:00.733" Score="2" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a GT chucker 1.0 but want to upgrade to a full suspension. Would it be posible to transfer all the components (fork, wheels, disc brakes, crankset, drive train) to a full suspension frame (xc/all mountain full suspension frame)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8028" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T18:18:29.940" Title="GT Chuck 1.0 component transfer to full full suspension frame" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17462" CreationDate="2013-09-04T14:37:36.167" Score="6" ViewCount="4457" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 80's Peugeot steel-framed racer that I want to convert to singlespeed/fixed. It has a standard square-taper BB with a double chainring chainset. I can see the chainrings are removable from the spider and was thinking I could just remove them and replace with a singlespeed ring to save having to buy a whole new crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this work or will I have problems with chainline? I have yet to buy a new rear wheel with singlespeed hub so it's quite hard to check if chainline will work. I presume it is possible to bolt the chainring to either side of the spider giving me a choice of two positions. Beyond this I'm not sure how I would adjust chainline if it's out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any general help/tips regarding conversion appreciated. The bike has horizontal dropouts (not a track rear fork) so tensioning shouldn't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a (not very good) picture: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eyn1O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T12:38:59.460" Title="Can one replace double chainrings with a singlespeed chainring on the original crankset/spider?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17440" CreationDate="2013-09-04T14:57:28.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to replace your chainring this with any 9 or 10 speed chainring that is 110 BCD (which is the Bolt Circle Diameter for the spider on an ultegra triple crankset). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tiagra/105/ultegra replacement rings should all fit, as well as most 3rd party manufacturers replacement rings.  Make sure the ring you want to use as a replacement has ramps and pins so that it will work as well as the original.  Stick with shimano parts to be sure of the best performance with the ultegra drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T14:57:28.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17456" CreationDate="2013-09-04T15:14:57.780" Score="3" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a bike online and recieved it yesterday.  It has a few parts that I was hoping someone could help identify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what any of these are, but the two rings are metallic:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VwAAN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what these two plastic things and strap are for:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VhopH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8029" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T15:21:07.757" Title="Unknown bike parts" Tags="&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17455" CreationDate="2013-09-04T15:21:07.757" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom picture is toe clips and associated straps.  The top picture shows and derailleur hanger (the hook shaped thing).  My best guess on the 2 black rings are headset spacers. The little nut is the only thing I'm not sure about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T15:21:07.757" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17447" CreationDate="2013-09-04T15:31:39.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd generally recommend a &quot;hybrid&quot; or &quot;city&quot; bike.  The &quot;hybrid&quot; looks like a mountain bike but isn't really.  It may have front suspension (which is NOT a particularly good idea for you) but will not have rear suspension.  The &quot;city&quot; bike may be similar to the hybrid or may be a &quot;retro&quot; style like you rode as a kid (though note the latter is often referred to as a &quot;comfort bike&quot;).  (The meanings of these terms change over time, and are pretty vague to begin with.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; get a single-speed bike (IIRC there are some hills in Central Park) but rather a bike with at least five speeds -- either a geared rear hub or a derailleur style bike.  You don't need 30 speeds, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely the bike you find will be have &quot;26-inch&quot; wheels, which is a slight problem, since you often cannot easily interchange tire widths on a 26-inch wheel.  (You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; interchange widths on a &quot;700c&quot; wheel, which is the slightly larger diameter wheel commonly used on &quot;road&quot; bikes.)  So you should make sure that you get a bike with tires of 1-1/4&quot; to maybe 1-3/4&quot; width (32mm to 45mm).  If the tires are in poor shape (on a used bike) or have heavy lugs in the tread you should change them out right away for tires with a relatively smooth tread (rides much smoother and with less effort).  And keep the tires inflated to the maximum pressure listed on the side, which will be 50-80 PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that wheel size depends to a degree on how tall you are and how long your legs are.  If you're taller than 5-10 or so you may want to consider a bike with 700c wheels, as that gives you a better selection of tires, and often a better fit to a tall body.  But &quot;hybrids&quot; with 700c wheels are not as common as ones with 26-inch wheels.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will very likely want to replace the seat (&quot;saddle&quot;, to the purists), even if you buy a new bike.  You should get a woman's seat -- wide, but not the absolute widest you can find.  Gel or foam padding is probably good, but don't look for the softest seat you can find -- a mushy seat makes for a poor ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as I said elsewhere, invest about $50 in a good floor pump, with built-in pressure gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T18:06:47.900" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T18:06:47.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13826" CreationDate="2013-09-04T16:01:53.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oy...How about this. Yes, geometries are different in marketed WSD frames vs &quot;unisex frames&quot;, BUT...what if they weren't ever called WSD? What if they were just proportionally smaller bikes?  Orbea has done that this year -- TT length/headtube height are proportional to the frames.  It's not about whether a bike is men's or women's...it's &quot;was it designed for a human&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many, many men who have proportions that are &quot;seen as&quot; women's proportions. And many women who are porportioned like men. I wish companies never would've never made WSD frames...it's misleading and leads women (especially new riders) to believe that that is what they need. When in fact, many many women can fit a 50 or 52 cm frame so long as touch points are modified (narrower handlebars, for example). But, truth be told, men modify these touch points also -- shouldn't really be any different for any human. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(been in the industry for 20 years, raced for 25, female)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8032" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T16:01:53.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17452" CreationDate="2013-09-04T18:18:29.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that all of the receiving sizes are the same, then yes. Technically you can put parts sized for different wheel sizes on a frame meant for a specific wheel size (ala 69ers), but keep in mind that it will change the bike's handling and geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fork&lt;/strong&gt;: If both are 1 1/8&quot; or both tapered then you can. Keep in mind that the head tube of the new frame may be shorter or longer and affect how much steer tube sticks out. You could wind up without enough space to clamp the stem. Also, will you need to transfer headset cups and/or bearings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheels&lt;/strong&gt;: The front wheel can go if the fork fits, if not it just needs to fit the new fork. The rear wheel will need to have the same spacing and dropouts (135mm QR, thru-axle, 12x142mm, etc.).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes&lt;/strong&gt;: You might need an adapter to mount the brakes, but these are pretty universal and should work on any bike. Also check to make sure the hoses are long enough if the new frame is longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drivetrain&lt;/strong&gt;: &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cranks&lt;/em&gt;: Will work, but the bottom bracket must be of the same type (cups/pressfit) and size (68/73 or 83mm).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shifters&lt;/em&gt;: are similar to brakes in that they're universal but the cables might be too short.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Front derailleur&lt;/em&gt;: Must be the same mounting type. The swing might be different, but it will work in some fashion, but maybe not the best.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rear derailleur/cassette&lt;/em&gt;: The cassette is dependent on the wheel fitting obviously, but the rear mech should work fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chain&lt;/em&gt;: I would say probably not, you'll have a slightly different chain size and it's a new bike, so might as well put on a new one. Plus, don't forget about the chain length change as the suspension moves through it's travel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to compare the specs on both bikes and see how much is the same before deciding to swap all the components, as it will be a headache when you get halfway through the build and discover that you need to buy a different sized part! This is also a good time to upgrade components and evaluate wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T18:18:29.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17453" CreationDate="2013-09-04T19:43:00.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it will work. Should you want a different sized chainring you'll just need to find one with the same BCD (bolt circle diameter) and you'll need shorter chainring bolts and/or chainring bolt spacers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of chainline, you have a multitude of options. The easiest one is to buy a cassette style wheel and a single speed conversion kit which consists of a cog and a bunch of spacers. By adjusting how many spacers you use to the inside vs the outside of the cog, you should be able to dial in your chain line with no further adjustments. The cheapest but trickiest and most time consuming option is to re-space your existing rear wheel's axle and re-dish the wheel accordingly, and then slap a single speed freewheel on in place of the multi speed one that's on there now. Finally, if you want a nice clean look and the extra security of a bolt on axle, you can buy a rear wheel with a single speed or flip flop hub and adjust your chain line with a different length bottom bracket- assuming the chain ling isn't good enough as is when you change the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T19:43:00.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17468" CreationDate="2013-09-04T21:41:40.917" Score="4" ViewCount="5271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to commute on my bike soon and was looking for suggestions or advice on what type of headphones I should use to listen to music while riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of the dangers of listening to music while riding and intend to only ever have one earpiece in at a time (so thinking in ear / over ear headphones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine that headphones that just &quot;fit&quot; into the ear (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.play.com/stores/SLAMTECH/listing/613047210&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt;) would fall straight out. Those that go deeper into the ear (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.play.com/stores/SLAMTECH/listing/613047228&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt;) wouldn't fall out but would also reduce outer sound (bad?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with this in mind I believe the best choice for cycling would be those that go over the ear (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.play.com/Electronics/Electronics/-/3176/2443/-/16436554/Groov-e-Sport-Headphones-Pink/Product.html?ob=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in thinking this? Is there anything else I should be considering when choosing a pair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B. All links are from Play.Com (UK) and are just the first examples of each I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8037" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T07:26:21.573" Title="Best type of headphones while riding" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;headphones&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17098" CreationDate="2013-09-04T22:28:36.417" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing that you want to prevent the most in these allen type assemblies is the melting which will lead to loose threads. It will make removal and assembly so hard to do as it won't bite the allen tool anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7644" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T22:28:36.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17098" CreationDate="2013-09-04T23:29:10.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't that big of a deal to clear up. Just use the tip of a metal pick to scrape out the gunk. A pick set is a great assortment of tools to have for all sorts of odd jobs (removing/installing o-rings, for instance). They're very cheap as well - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$1.59 as of the time of this answer at Harbor Freight.&lt;/a&gt;. In the absence of a pick you can use other tools as a makeshift pick, although it's not very good for them. Eyeglass screwdrivers will work, as will much smaller (eg .5mm) hex wrenches. You might even be able to use a paperclip in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T23:29:10.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17431" CreationDate="2013-09-04T23:47:30.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different brands and component levels of levers have different shapes, and different bars have different amounts of drop and different curvatures. Arne's suggestion of lining the tips of the brake levers to be even with the flat part of the drops is a common rule of thumb to get you started. If the bars are already installed on the bike you can do this with a ruler or something else flat and rigid. I found a decent image illustrating just how to do this, albeit on an older bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zifk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that the owner has left a quarter inch gap above level. This is where the ergonomics of the components you are running and your own personal preference come into play. If you are unsure, I would start with this basic rule of thumb and work from there. A few things to note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moving the levers too far up or down on the bars is going to give you weird ergonomics in terms of hand positions and lever reach from the drops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;once you have the levers set where you want them, be careful of twisting the bars too far up or down in the stem as this will also give you weird ergonomics. On newer setups you typically want to start with the transition from the bars to the hoods being pretty much parallel with the ground&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;once the tape is installed on the bars you only have so much wiggle room to slide the levers up or down. Ultimately if you feel like you can't move them enough with the tape in place then you're probably trying to make too big of a change- unless you started with them clamped way too low or way too high on the bars. A little change can make a big difference, so make small adjustments and then go for a good ride to try it out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T23:47:30.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-04T23:47:44.753" Score="8" ViewCount="1646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do realize this question is asked a lot and I have looked around but I find my self still struggling with it, for that I apologize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I decided to commute to work and so I bought a Giant Escape 3, this works fine for my 30 mile round trip ride (Route: &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/VxWcHe&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/VxWcHe&lt;/a&gt;). I work in IT and so I generally have a laptop, tablet, an assortment of chargers and other materials with me. I estimate that my load is probably around 15 lbs and is 20-25 lbs when I commute with my hobby items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bag just isn't working for me, it hurts when I lean forward and causes to much sweat on my back because of no ventilation. I am trying to figure out a bag that would work for my needs whether it is a backpack, messenger, or pannier. If it is a pannier it needs to be able to go onto my back when I am not commuting, and if it is a backpack/messenger I would like it to have some form of ventilation for the back. If possible I am trying to keep the price under or around $100 but I understand I may have to shill out more so I believe my limit for price is around ~$150.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once again I am sorry for this long post, and often repeated question, but I have issues when it comes to choices (consumer wise) unless there is an obvious winner and I just can't seem to figure out a winner even with the pros and cons posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Also I live on Oahu, Hawaii. If it isn't raining it is most likely very hot and very humid. Normally I am biking home while it is still 80F+ and 50%+ humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8038" LastEditorUserId="8038" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T00:02:55.567" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T10:24:43.320" Title="Long Distance (~30mi) Bag Use" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-04T23:56:46.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure there's a best type for cycling, but the latter two examples have their pros and cons and I think you pretty much nailed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last type you posted is going to give you a good snug fit but without the noise isolation of the in ear type (2nd example) which isn't great for listening to music given the wind noise, but for safety reasons is preferable. So if you're riding on public roads and safety is your primary concern, go with the earbud style with the around the ear clip (last example). If you're more concerned about blocking out wind noise and listening to your music the in ear (second example) is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T23:56:46.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17467" CreationDate="2013-09-05T00:24:30.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For lighter loads and a shorter trip I might suggest a messenger bag, but an over the shoulder bag can get pretty uncomfortable as the load gets big or the ride gets long. In both cases I prefer a backpack style pack with two straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few companies out there that make or have made backpacks that stand up off of your back. Usually they have a stretched mesh panel that sits against your back with airspace between the mesh panel and the bag itself. They do a decent job of mitigating the heat and sweat problems compared to a standard backpack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.camelbak.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Camelbak&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://vaude.com.np/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vaude&lt;/a&gt; made them for a while though I believe they've been discontinued; it may be worth looking on Amazon and other stores to see if you can find them on the cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://deuter.com/en_US/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Deuter&lt;/a&gt; is known for this type of pack and has a pretty good assortment of sizes and styles, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deuter.com/en_US/backpack-details.php?category=123&amp;amp;artnr=32133&amp;amp;title=Race%20EXP%20Air&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; for instance. You should be able to find one that fits your needs in terms of size and will sit on the high end of your budget. I have a 28 liter pack from them and like it pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T00:24:30.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17420" CreationDate="2013-09-05T01:13:32.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a case for my iPhone from a MTB tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was easy — just cut the tube open, looped it over itself to create a pocket, leave some extra for a floppy lid of sorts, and ... stick it with tire-patch glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple, and works great. Good for keeping sweat off the phone, and gives some protection if you drop your phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap, and pretty cool, too, to whip out the phone wrapped in a rubber sleeve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get a few questions about it. People are always surprised to learn that I made it myself (I guess a lot of people don't do that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8039" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T01:13:32.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17442" CreationDate="2013-09-05T08:08:47.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No tire is puncture proof.. However some tires can tolerate more than others, Schwalbe marathon is a pretty good tire, good alternative is Vredestein perfect e (I don't know for sure if it's available in 20&quot;). Also look into &quot;Gaadi&quot; inner tubes, it's pretty nice for when you're travelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8041" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T08:08:47.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17467" CreationDate="2013-09-05T08:44:47.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple alternative to a pannier is using a front basket - the basic Wald 137 baskets are a proven design, inexpensive, and almost universally available.  You can then just use your current bag of choice and secure it in the basket with a cargo net or bungee cord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the more expensive side, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cetmacargo.com/pages/cetma-racks-info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CETMA cargo racks&lt;/a&gt; and other porteur racks can handle even more significant front loads. As enumerated by CETMA, some of the advantages to a front load are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&lt;li&gt;The rear wheel is inherently weaker than the front wheel due to its asymmetrical build, offset hub, and torque input.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear part of the frame is where almost all frames break. The thin chain stays and seat stays are notorious weak spots.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carrying weight on a rear rack makes the entire bike feel unstable and top-heavy. Put a heavy box on a rear rack and try to ride down the street. The entire frame flexes and the bike tries to lay down. Come to a stop and it gets downright scary. Transporting that box becomes a precarious balancing act.  It's easier to handle cargo when it's up front near your hands.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Rear-loaded freight remains behind you while you ride (duh), and you can't see if it's shifting or about to fall. It's easier to keep an eye on cargo when it's right in front of you.&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your bike's geometry, the main disadvantage to a front load is that the bike's steering can become sluggish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T08:44:47.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17442" CreationDate="2013-09-05T09:13:39.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want something that really is &lt;em&gt;absolutely&lt;/em&gt; puncture-proof:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greentyre.co.uk/bicycle-tyres.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.greentyre.co.uk/bicycle-tyres.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they are extremely hard work to fit and, more importantly, they combine the harsh feel of a small hard tyre with the high rolling resistance of an underinflated tyre, and they lack grip. (At least that was my experience with some 700c ones years ago; they might have improved, but I doubt it. But I was getting punctures several times a month until I fitted them. I went back to standard tyres when I changed my commute route. The Marathon Plus wasn't available then.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Review of another similar puncture proof foam filled tyre (doesn't have a 20&quot; size available, but gives a second opinion on the merits of such tyres): &lt;a href=&quot;http://gearjunkie.com/flat-free-foam-bike-tires&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gearjunkie.com/flat-free-foam-bike-tires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For normal pneumatic tyres Marathon Plus is about as close to puncture proof as you can get. They can be quite stiff to get on and off though (nothing like as bad as the GreenTyres though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/why-do-boris-bikes-hardly-ever-get-punctures/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/why-do-boris-bikes-hardly-ever-get-punctures/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other 20&quot; tyres with a puncture resistant belt, the Primo Comet for example, or the Panaracer Minit Lite &quot;PT Shield&quot;, or the Marathon Supreme (lighter than the Plus), but I don't know of anything else as resistant as the Plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't really protect against pinch flats though. Either teach your friend to check her tyre pressure and use a pump, or do it for her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="1158" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T09:19:44.307" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T09:19:44.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17467" CreationDate="2013-09-05T09:30:46.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/?s=Altura%20Urban%20Dryline%2017%20Inch%20Briefcase%20Pannier%20-%202010/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Altura laptop pannier&lt;/a&gt;, and the shoulder strap is pretty good worn messenger bag style when you get off.  It takes my netbook the wrong way round (it's made for big laptops) plus a change of clothes, toolkit, pump, jacket, towel and even a pair of shoes if necessary. If you don't have to carry the junk I sometimes do, and if you use a saddlebag for your toolkit it should take all you want (2 laptops probably, though only 1 in the padded case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you use a reasonably large laptop (IT pros generally do) you'll find it easier riding with the weight in a pannier.  And I recommend a (reasonably) waterproof one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T09:30:46.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17442" CreationDate="2013-09-05T09:37:51.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marathon plus are great - though I have had 1 puncture - a drill-tipped roofing screw, about 13mm long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If she doesn't want to fix punctures at the roadside (and taking the wheel off on a folder with hub gears may be a hassle), then in addition to the best tyres you can get consensus on, you should probably run with some leave-in sealant - I've heard good things about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slime.com/shop/tube-sealant/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;slime&lt;/a&gt;, though I personally carry a spare tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T09:37:51.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2013-09-05T09:46:32.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are actually studies suggesting that in the generally population, most vitamins are &lt;em&gt;worse&lt;/em&gt; than useless unless diet is really bad.  Which studies you believe is up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you land at your desk and find work waiting for you (or the equivalent when you get home) and don't stretch, after a decent ride (mine's about 50% longer than yours, less climbing but some of it very steep) you will start to feel tired and achy pretty quickly.  So find a good stretch routine, not forgetting your core, and do it religiously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I have a protein bar on arriving in work as well - I'm hungry by then, and I can afford the calories (1/2 of those for my each-way ride).  I believe, though not strongly, that it makes the evening ride easier - worth a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T09:46:32.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17467" CreationDate="2013-09-05T10:19:02.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A backpack would provide the best vibration damping and have the least detrimental effect on the laptop's lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard good things about this style of backpack-rider back interface. It is a thin mesh, supporting the backpack a couple of centimetres away from your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qtYh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;By the way, this backpack has internal frame, integrated rain cover and is in your price range :)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I have zero experience both with road bikes and with this technology of backpack to human back interface. Please regard this post as an idea, instead of an advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T10:19:02.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-05T14:27:12.783" Score="3" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1969 Columbia Newsboy Special that I have had for many years and I have never replaced the tires. Got the bike out of the garage and pumped up the tires to ride and the front tire poped. Rear tire still good. Will replacing both tires depreciate the value of the bike if I ever decide to sell it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8042" LastActivityDate="2017-09-22T01:10:51.313" Title="Does the value of an old bicycle depreciate if old tires replace with new ones?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17481" CreationDate="2013-09-05T14:57:32.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tires shouldn't have an impact on the value of the bike. Tires wear out and are discarded. If you are concerned, though, and you plan to ride the bike, replace the tires with new ones and keep the old ones somewhere so they don't wear out further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T14:57:32.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17485" CreationDate="2013-09-05T15:03:09.790" Score="4" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to install a shorter stem onto my mountain bike, can I just swap them out or will I need to get the star nut replaced or reset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6244" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T23:15:01.320" Title="Installation of a shorter stem" Tags="&lt;build&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17481" CreationDate="2013-09-05T15:28:05.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like any antique, the closer it is to &quot;original&quot; the more likely the value will increase. However, in the case of many items, there are parts that wear out or decompose over time (rubber, wood, even metal) so they are expected to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what you could do to maintain value or at least attractiveness to a potential buyer would be to replace the tires with newer versions of the same tire, or try to find ones that look similar to replicate the same look of the entire bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T15:28:05.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17483" CreationDate="2013-09-05T15:30:53.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you're putting on the same size stem (steer tube size, not length), which you should be doing unless it came with spacers/shims, then yeah no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the clamping area is taller, you may need to get a longer bolt to reach the star nut, but then you'll also have some stem above the steer tube and that's no good either. Odds are though that you'll be just fine switching over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T15:30:53.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17420" CreationDate="2013-09-05T16:30:00.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some Ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Knobby or not, tires that are &quot;fat enough&quot; can be cut and fitted under the downtube to protect it from rocks thrown by the front tire. Remove part of the sidewall of each side, cut to a proper length and fix it with zip ties. (This is actually what I have done with my DH bike, partly because it is usual to transport it with the downtube resting against a pick-up truck's lid. The tire provides protection for both, the bike and the car, and provides friction which prevents the bike from sliding too much.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The previous idea can be also used in reverse: Lining the truck's lid upper border with a stripe made out of the treaded part of a fat, knobby tire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could use it for lining the top of a stair guard rail in a rustic cabin.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could nail or staple them in the border of wooden stairs that are outdoors in a very humid place, they will add grip for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In my Mountain bikes I use chainstay protectors made out of road tire. I just cut the wire part out, then cut to a good looking shape and secure it with zip ties. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inner Tubes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut the tube transversely in widths of half an inch. You've got perfect holders for rolled documents, such as blueprints and building plans, or unused gift wrapping paper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut the tube transversely in widths of two inches. These short sleeves can be used to avoid dirt and mud from getting into the seat tube and the seat clamp. Can also be used to protect the head tube bearing against weather on certain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There was a company that made small saddle bags out from inner tube. These bags are easy to manufacture with just scissors, patch glue, needle and nylon thread. (They are just great for carrying an emergency tube and small tools under the seat.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can be added as handles for carrying lightwheight items.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lining tool handles, bucket handles...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spoke nipple head cover, spoke hole cover or tube protectors. Specially effective if made out of thicker inner tube. Cut a stripe wide enough to cover the well of the rim but not to interfere with the &quot;clincher&quot; lip. Then cut it as long as to barely fit round the rim's circumference. Use patch glue to adhere the ends, overlapping by 2 inches or so. The stretching will make it stay in the rim making installation easy. Don't forget to cut a proper hole for the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:29:42.197" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:29:42.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17489" CreationDate="2013-09-05T16:41:59.513" Score="5" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a steel bike with handlebars that are about half as thick as today's bikes. Where can I find a computer mount for these bars or should I just use some type of spacer? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6293" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T17:57:10.353" Title="Bicycle Computer Mount for Small Diameter Handlebars" Tags="&lt;steel&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17453" CreationDate="2013-09-05T17:00:05.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed It should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other answers address chainline correction options for the rear end, but I know at least two for the front side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually two big rings in a triple, or the two rings of a double would be fixed by a single set of bolts. That means the chainring bolts are long enough to hold 2 chainrings. When going to hold only one, it may happen that the bolts are too long, so you may need spacers to fill up the gap. These spacers can be used to fine tune the chainline in the front side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the bottom bracket is the old cup and bearing style, the cups can be adjusted to provide a few millimeters of adjustment. Shimano sealed BB's can be shifted side to side by adding Bottom Bracket spacers, which should be really cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will mention a third one, although the OP clearly states that wants a lean budget approach, chainline can also be altered by swapping the bottom bracket cartridge or axle. (Can be done low budget if using secondhand parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2013-09-06T12:38:59.460" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T12:38:59.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17487" CreationDate="2013-09-05T17:57:10.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most computer mounts come with plastic spacers that can be placed between the hard plastic mount and the handlebar. If yours didn't come with that, I have used Athletic tape to build up the bars to the point where the mount will grip the bars adequately.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T17:57:10.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-05T19:55:33.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always used a radio when riding, and never considered it being a safety issue because I don't have the volume so high that someone standing next to me could hear it. I value my hearing very much! I use the over the ear speakers by either Phillips or Sony. I've been wearing these for years and have never had any conflicts with traffic because I keep the volume turned down. I can hear the radio and any vehicle approaching from the rear. I constantly check my mirrors anyway. They are no distraction to me and I consider them to be just the same as a radio in any vehicle. I can hear vehicles approaching from the rear from several hundred yards back, even when I haven't seen them in my mirrors at that point because of a hill or curve. I consider the volume of the radio/speakers to be less of a distraction than the radio in my vehicle. This is mainly because in a vehicle, you can have the radio on and still have a passenger trying to talk also. On the bike, you're usually at one with yourself. These ear phone speakers are much better than back in &quot;the day&quot; when we had to affix a transistor radio with the speaker in the radio, to our bicycle handlebar in some fashion! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T19:55:33.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17481" CreationDate="2013-09-05T20:11:24.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion the original tires would only matter to a very small segment of the people, and only then if it was considered a &quot;museum piece&quot;, and what are the odds of that? You could always remove the tires ( and possibly wheels ), and replace them with a functional set of wheels and tires, and store the originals if you feel the need to keep them around. Rubber tires don't last forever and will continue to degrade even if stored in a basement. I've been through the Bicycle Museum of America that has an extensive collection of bicycles from the late 1700's to present. Many of these bicycles have parts that aren't original due to accidents or simply being used up over the years they were ridden, but that certainly doesn't detract from their historic value. Wooden wheels and solid &quot;rubber strips&quot; for &quot;tires&quot; didn't last long on the roads they had in those days. Repairs and replacement parts are a part of the history of that particular bicycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T20:11:24.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17483" CreationDate="2013-09-05T20:26:52.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By shorter stem do you mean reach (distance from steerer to bar) or clamp height? (the length of the clamp on the stem). I assume you are meaning reach, but if you are talking about clamp height then you would have to make up any difference in spacers but the answer below still stands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not have to move your star nut or use a larger bolt, if you need to you are likely to end up with something unsafe. There should only be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/uploads/images/blog/repair_help/fork11.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;small gap&lt;/a&gt; of no more than about 3mm between the top of your stem and the top of your steerer. If you have spacers between your stem and headset you can remove or swap these for a smaller size to make the stem fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The star-nut/ top cup and bolt acts only to provide preload-tension so that you can clamp the stem onto the steerer without movement in the headset. Once the stem is on you could technically remove the top cap (but no one does this).  If you are having to change these then it is likely that the stem won't have adequate space to clamp onto the steerer safely. Spacers are there to provide leverage for the top cap to add tension but the stem can sit directly on top of the headset if required as long as you have that small gap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to be wary of when changing stem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;MTB bars come in two sizes and therefore the stem clamp will either be normal or oversized, make sure you get the right one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When doing up pinch bolts on the stem do a turn on the top bolt then a turn on the bottom bolt and so forth until you get the desired tightness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When clamping the bar to the stem make sure the gaps between the stem and the face plate is even on all bolts (2 or 4 bolts depending on the stem)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(sorry I can't add images from this PC due to security restrictions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T23:15:01.320" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T23:15:01.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15809" CreationDate="2013-09-05T21:27:36.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need to replace the cable, try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shimano 105 Shifter Cable Removal&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take the bike for a short ride and shift into the gear that gives the shifter cable maximum slack. For the front gear shifter, maximum cable slack corresponds with the lowest gear. For the rear gear shifter, maximum cable slack equals the largest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Loosen the bolt on the derailleur that secures the shifter cable with a 5-mm hex wrench. The shifter cable is attached at one end to the Shimano 105 shifter and at the other end to the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut the metal cap, called the &quot;ferrule,&quot; away from the end of the cable, using cable cutters. Grab the cable where it enters the derailleur and pull it free.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Squeeze the shift lever on the Shimano 105 gear shifter to expose the head of the cable. The cable head is located on the side of the top of the shift lever.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grab a portion of the cable and push it forward, forcing the head of the cable out of the Shimano 105 gear shifter. Grab the head of the cable and pull the cable free.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shimano 105 Shifter Cable Installation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thread the replacement shifter cable through the hole in the Shimano&#xA;105 gear shifter. This is the same hole from which the old cable&#xA;emerged. The cable has two ends, with a metal fitting at one end,&#xA;which is designed to anchor the cable inside the shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull the shifter cable taught until the metal fitting is fully&#xA;anchored.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pass the cable along the bicycle. The cable follows the exact route&#xA;of the old shifter cable, passing through the cable housing and&#xA;cable stops before arriving at the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thread the shifter cable beneath the derailleur bolt and pull the&#xA;cable tight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tighten the derailleur bolt onto the cable, using the 5-mm hex&#xA;wrench. The cable will be excessively long and will need to be cut.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut the cable just past the derailleur bolt, using the cable&#xA;cutters. Leave enough cable, approximately 2 to 3 inches, to allow&#xA;for future adjustments of the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Press a new ferrule onto the tip of the cable. Squeeze the ferrule&#xA;onto the cable using pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_7706040_replace-shifter-cable-shimano-105.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/how_7706040_replace-shifter-cable-shimano-105.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T21:27:36.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17467" CreationDate="2013-09-05T21:40:40.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you're probably not going to find a backpack that converts to a pannier in that price range. And most of them kind of suck for all day use anyway, even the high end ones. You can feel the hooks digging into your back so it's not comfortable for much more than carrying it from the bike rack to the office. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best option is probably to use a rear rack and a basket. Then you could simply put your backpack into the basket for your commute. You can get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000RYAKRM&quot;&gt;cheap bike rack for about $25&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0012DZEBY&quot;&gt;basket for about the same price&lt;/a&gt;. That particular rack is rated for 55 lbs and while the baskets don't list a weight spec, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/What-is-the-weight-limit/forum/Fx3H7ARXSM2IRSQ/Tx26E39PRWGXU96/1/ref=cm_cd_dp_aar_al_a?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;asin=B0012DZEBY&quot;&gt;Q&amp;amp;A section&lt;/a&gt; below says that people easily load 25+ lbs per basket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of other companies that manufacture similar racks and baskets, so it would be a good idea to shop around. Those were just the first ones that I stumbled across. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use a front basket as someone else suggested, but those tend to mount up high which affects your steering. And not in a good way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T21:40:40.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-05T22:30:49.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are wearing a helmet, you could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slipstreamz.com/products/the-slip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slipstreamz The Slip&lt;/a&gt;. These attach to your helmet straps, and reduce wind noise, so may improve your hearing of traffic. You can fit earphones inside them, so they are held just outside your ear. So you can hear your music, and still hear noise from your surroundings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T00:59:28.200" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T00:59:28.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16659" CreationDate="2013-09-06T08:29:54.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kevlar belted tires are the way to go. YMMV but I find that almost-slick road tires with asymmetric channels provide the best interface with both wet &amp;amp; dry pavement. Also consider that slicker tires roll more easily not because they are smooth but because they have significantly larger contact patches then say 'nubby' mountain bike tires. If you plan on traveling any amount of distance with any frequency you may want to look into a tire that will not require a significant energy investment. or you could just soldier thru and build those legs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2220" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T08:29:54.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17395" CreationDate="2013-09-06T08:36:08.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your hub is in good condition &amp;amp; you wish to keep it having the wheel rebuilt is the way to go. However if your shop is trying to charge you more then 100$ish dollars for a rebuild, especially on an older hub perhaps consider doing the rebuild yourself. Re/building wheels is not a particularly difficult task with a wheel stand &amp;amp; proper tools all of which are readily available online for reasonable prices. However it can be exceedingly time consuming so consider this aspect as well the reality is that it most likely would take you shop just as long to rebuild the wheel but some times it's more easy to just pay someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2220" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T08:36:08.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17499" CreationDate="2013-09-06T08:57:42.103" Score="4" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just pumped up my tire, and then ripped off the valve when trying to take the chuck off, and consequently the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've learned that I shouldn't twist when trying to remove the chuck, but what else can I do to make it easier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8046" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T09:14:53.487" Title="How to safely remove pump chuck from Schrader valve" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;valves&gt;&lt;schrader&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17498" CreationDate="2013-09-06T09:14:53.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ripping off the valve is a pretty rare occurence I think. If you manage to pull the valve off or even just spring a leak while removing the chuck then the inside of the rim (where the root of valve connects to the innertube and hits the inside of the rim) could be too sharp or the protective rim tape could be damaged or mis-aligned. This is the first thing I'd check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that I think the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/3786/424&quot;&gt;top voted answer&lt;/a&gt; here to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3765/how-to-safely-remove-pump-off-presta-valve?rq=1&quot;&gt;this almost identical question for presta valves&lt;/a&gt; is good concrete advice.&#xA;I would suggest you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you unlocked the chuck properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just pull straight away from de valve to get the chuck off (no twisting or bending or wiggling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be mindfull of the amount of force you use (both to avoid pulling the valve off, and to avoid slamming your hand into the spokes or something else as the chuck comes loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T09:14:53.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17467" CreationDate="2013-09-06T13:18:15.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a similar length &lt;a href=&quot;http://gb.mapometer.com/cycling/route_677415.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;commute&lt;/a&gt; (which I do on my bike about once a week, in nice weather), and I got fed up with my rucksack (for the same reasons as you), so I bought a triple pannier. The top bag zips on and off, and turns into a shoulder bag which is pretty comfortable to carry. The side bags stay on my bike and carry tools and a bike lock. I've just tried and failed to find the product on Amazon; I'll see if I can find out what make it is when I get home tonight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It's not &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LARGE-TRIPLE-BIKE-PANNIER-BAG-WITH-REMOVABLE-TOP-BAG-/400566258724&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, but it's pretty similar. You get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8048" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T13:18:15.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17501" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17502" CreationDate="2013-09-06T13:38:35.913" Score="2" ViewCount="2057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm modifying my CX bike to double as a lightweight tourer.  I'm currently running a 1x10 SRAM Force/Rival drivetrain.  I'd like to replace my single front chainring with a &quot;mountain double&quot; to utilize the latter's low gearing.  My question is whether or not there is a difference between &quot;mountain&quot; and &quot;road&quot; 10 speed drivetrains?  Can the same chains be used on both?  How about &quot;mountain&quot; chainrings in the front and &quot;road&quot; cassettes in the back?  Is the distinction just marketing rubbish or is mountain 10 gear heavier duty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6521" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T13:29:57.057" Title="Mountain vs. Road 10 Speed Drivetrain Compatibility" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17501" CreationDate="2013-09-06T14:42:07.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The distinction is gearing and a weight/durability tradeoff. Spacing and cable pull is the same within brands + speed groupings (eg 10 speed SRAM). You can even mix and match your cassettes, cranksets, and chains between SRAM and Shimano within a speed grouping- just make sure you don't mix and match derailleurs and shifters as the cable pull is different. Note that I left Campagnolo out of the mix- just don't go there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T14:42:07.190" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2013-09-06T14:47:20.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is that you are comfortable riding it. In my experience a slightly smaller offers the benefit of more agility &amp;amp; lighter weight. However where you will be riding is a factor as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As most of my riding is in city streets with traffic I find utility in a smaller fit for the above reasons, I tend to ride with my bars significantly below my seat height but not so far that I cannot grab the top of the handlebars &amp;amp; ride upright cruiser style. This gives me a reasonable balance between power transfer from the lower position to comfort when I have a load on my back in the upright position.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, riding like this out in the country can get old pretty quick. Mainly I think because in city riding there is a lot of stop/go &amp;amp; opportunities to adjust where as country riding tends to be more distance traveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line however is still: If you cannot find a 'perfect' fit, which feels more comfortable to your style&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2220" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-12-10T22:51:44.510" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T22:51:44.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2013-09-06T15:17:23.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's two years later now and I no longer feel this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two more years of fitness on the bike&lt;/strong&gt;: I ride every day, apart from Wednesday&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Better sleep pattern&lt;/strong&gt;: I've got used to having two kids now and making sure I get enough sleep, rather than pushing my luck and staying up too late&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Better cycling technique&lt;/strong&gt; Maybe...?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I imagine it's generally down to keeping at it and my body adjusting, getting fitter, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="696" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T15:17:23.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2013-09-06T15:30:40.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need anything particularly special.  Sleep well and make sure you have calories before you ride.  Breakfast before your morning commute and possibly a snack before your commute home may do a great deal to prevent you feeling dragged down during your ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything with some carbs will probably do, PB&amp;amp;J works great, so do cliff bars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T15:30:40.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17467" CreationDate="2013-09-06T18:23:26.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dank bags. Made by messengers for messengers. I use my civilian size everyday on my 30 mile commute and have no issues. Most comfortable bag I've ever worn. Custom made for you for $150. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8050" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T18:23:26.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17549" CreationDate="2013-09-07T00:08:40.040" Score="4" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a hardtail, and I wonder if a full suspension prevents pinch flats in the rear wheel. I don't get pinch flats; but I want to know what to expect from a hardtail vs full suspension. I'm a heavy man (100 kgs) and like to go fast (60+ k/h) in bad dirt roads (not downhill), and my main worry is getting a pinch flat (or blow out). I use 40 psi in my rear wheel (26x2.10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T13:39:07.413" Title="Pinch flats: hardtail vs full suspension. Differences?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-07T00:30:37.473" Score="1" ViewCount="2561" Body="&lt;p&gt;You generally see the top tube on steel bikes being parallel to the ground, whereas on a lot of carbon bikes it's angled. Why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(my observations are obviously limited, but it seems like a trend)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures for comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rcYsj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;steel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LoFhw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7789" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T21:40:52.760" Title="top tube angle on steel and carbon road bikes" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;design&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17512" CreationDate="2013-09-07T02:16:42.320" Score="5" ViewCount="16120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been running a set of quite nice slicks at 120-140 PSI for a couple of months. Might have done 400-600 km on the bike in that time. Tonight the rear tire exploded while the bike was sitting in my entryway. It's split right along the seam, with a roughly 2 inch long gap. Very loud bang etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I go out and buy another $70 tire, I want to get an idea of what caused this. Some possibilities that I've thought of include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running the tire at 140 PSI. The tire is rated to that pressure, but maybe this is still too much?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some brief stretches of gravel road (1-2km) I did on it last weekend. The bike seemed fine then however.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a central heating/cooling vent directly adjacent to where the bike is stored. Perhaps the changes in temperature were enough to damage the tire?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The roads in this area are not always very good. Maybe this is just the result of accumulated damage from dozens of minor nicks and bumps?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tire could be defective. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: added a picture. Looks like the tube has a ~1cm hole in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JDVnd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="2513" LastEditDate="2013-09-07T03:26:27.863" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T18:43:13.673" Title="Why did my tire explode?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17509" CreationDate="2013-09-07T07:19:45.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is cords were damaged on the ride creating a weak spot. Threads held together long enough to get you home and a bit longer, then ripped apart. This kind of delayed and catastrophic failure is not uncommon. Heating vent might have softened them enough to make a difference, but the tire was damaged anyway (assuming warm, not very hot air). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More puncture resistant tires may help prevent it in the future, but you cannot prevent it completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of the hole in the tire, and the hole in the tube are irrelevant, its a symptom of the tire failure, not the cause. Once the tire fails, there is nothing stopping the air pressure inside the tube expanding - the tube cannot stop it, it gets pushed though the tire, making that hole bigger and blows up and pops just like a balloon, hence the bang. If you were listening closely, the bang was preceded by a short ripping sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T07:19:45.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13619" CreationDate="2013-09-07T11:06:23.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sphyke.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sphyke.com&lt;/a&gt; has a system where you can use any normal cap screw that you like (up to M9).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then a Stainless steel/ Alloy 'security cover' is placed over the head so it cant be accessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only with your personalized combination lock code can this security cover be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also have the M10x1 nut version you ask about using the same system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8056" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-09-07T14:00:09.720" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T14:00:09.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17509" CreationDate="2013-09-07T11:18:44.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture it appears that the tire simply failed.  It may have gotten &quot;bruised&quot; at some point, or the cord may have simply fatigued to the point of failure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without examining it in person it's hard to tell where the split started, but it appears to have split mostly along the joint between tread and the white sidewall.  In general, white sidewalls make the tire weaker, both because the white material is not as durable and because there's a necessary seam between sidewall and tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the tire likely has some sort of belt under the tread area, and, in such a narrow tire, that can result in fatigue along the edge of the belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heating/cooling vent could have been a factor if hot air were blowing directly on one spot on the tire, but seems unlikely if it was cooling air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, it's always possible that you had cut/bruised the tire at some point and it finally let go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Age would be another suspect, but you indicate you've only had the tires a few months, and it would take several years for that to be a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T11:18:44.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17515" CreationDate="2013-09-07T13:10:45.523" Score="7" ViewCount="15961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a pair of SRAM Powerlocks for 10-speed chains. The packaging says that they can only be used with SRAM chains. Will anything nasty happen if I use it with a Shimano chain and cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T18:27:58.517" Title="Can you use a SRAM 10-speed Powerlock with a Shimano chain/drivetrain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17513" CreationDate="2013-09-07T18:32:17.177" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will work fine together- same if you swap the brands around. I've done this many times for myself and for others with no issue and it's common practice amongst bike shops. This is strictly marketing &amp;amp; legal covering of their own asses. If you look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.connexchain.com/en/product/connex-link.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wippermann Connex Link&lt;/a&gt; compatibility they say that the one link is compatible with SRAM, Shimano, and Campy. They're all so close in terms of the spacing that interchanging their quick links doesn't make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, those Wippermann Connex quick links rock. Tool free installation and removal, and it's almost impossible for them to come undone while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="7525" LastEditDate="2020-06-03T18:27:58.517" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T18:27:58.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17509" CreationDate="2013-09-07T18:43:13.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either you damaged the casing or it was defective to begin with. Once it starts to go it basically zippers open in an instant. The white tread and the vent had nothing to do with the failure, but the 140PSI certainly could have encouraged it. That's not to say it wouldn't have happened eventually at a lower pressure anyway, but to digress slightly, just because your tire says you can run 140PSI in it doesn't mean you should. At some point you are actually slowing yourself down by running higher pressure (unless you're rolling on a glass flat surface, which you're not), and you are most certainly making your ride less comfortable. This gives me the opportunity to post one of my favorite graphs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OjObV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No reason to be dogmatic about the pressures listed here, but they do give you a good starting point. Don't always pump your tires up to their max pressure. Even if they say they can handle 140psi it doesn't mean you should pump them up that tight. It makes the ride more uncomfortable and it does put more stress on the casing and bead of the tire. If something is going to go wrong with the tire, it's more likely to happen the more air you put in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T18:43:13.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17508" CreationDate="2013-09-07T18:55:09.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only real advantage to a compact geometry road bike is for the manufacturers. Since standover- which is the distance from the top tube to your crotch when you straddle the bike with your feet on the ground- is increased, one size of frame will fit a wider height range of people and therefore the manufacturer does not have to make as many different frame sizes. This is valuable for aluminum and steel bike frames, but pays off the most in the world of monocoque carbon frames as each size requires its own mold(s) and for higher end bikes, its own layup schedule. Final fitting is done with saddle height &amp;amp; fore/aft position along with steerer stack height, stem length &amp;amp; angle. Ultimately there is no difference in fit between compact and classic road bike geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compact geometry frames use ever so slightly less material in the frame, but primarily they are just the new aesthetic of road bikes as compared to those of the 1980s era and before, and that era of bike was typically steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-09-07T21:19:16.810" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T21:19:16.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17507" CreationDate="2013-09-07T18:59:46.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly this has more to do with how you let your bike &quot;float&quot; underneath you over obstructions than it does with rear suspension or the lack thereof. Since you can potentially go faster on a full suspension over rough terrain than you can on a hardtail I would say you're just as likely to get pinch flats. You just have to unweight the back of the bike and stay loose as you cross rocks/roots/whatever. That's a crucial key not only in reducing pinch flats, but in going faster over technical terrain as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer, just as likely on either platform depending on your riding style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T18:59:46.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17508" CreationDate="2013-09-07T21:40:52.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Q: You generally see the top tube on steel bikes being parallel to the ground, whereas on a lot of carbon bikes it's angled. Why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: It is because most steel bikes you see are old, designed and built in an age before the sloping top-tube was conceived (for Giant bicycles by Mick Burrows in the mid-90's I believe). So aside from recent artisan-built steel, most steel bikes will have horizontal top-tubes (parallel to the ground). By contrast, most carbon bikes were made as jm2 above has stated, with saving money on mould-making a key consideration, hence the slope. Interestingly, many custom-made steel bikes are now made sloping as well, because because its seen as a more modern look. Yet perversely some of the poshest new carbon frames (eg some Legend, Parlee and BMC frames) are now made with horizontal, or near-horizontal top tubes, because their customers want a more 'traditional' look. What goes around comes around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T21:40:52.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17250" CreationDate="2013-09-07T22:08:08.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simplified way to think about this is a tire has three core attributes: performance, durability and cost, but you can optimize for only two of them.  That, and marketing, is what seems to be afoot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schwalbe's web site has some general information on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_construction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;construction&lt;/a&gt; of tires.  A takeway is they can tweak the rubber compounds to improve a tire's characteristics for specific needs. Their very high-level/marketing view &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/sites/all/definitions/Compound.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list enumerating compounds&lt;/a&gt; equates the &quot;Triple Star&quot; compound as the best family, but it's tuned the specific user type mountain (grip, speed), road (speed, weight) and touring (durability, fewer flats) use.  It's not that different from 105/Dura Ace vs XT/XTR.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be more helpful to consider their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/off-road_tires/all_mountain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;suitability ratings&lt;/a&gt; within each category.  For example, under the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/off-road_tires/all_mountain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;All Mountain&lt;/a&gt;, the Nobby Nic (with the PaceStar, the high-end compound) is touted for its grip in soft surfaces and decent on hardpack/loose.  Its other virtues are comparable to the Rapid Rob (standard compound) at approximately 60% of the cost.  Thus if grip on soft-pack is really important to you, you might be willing spend more.  Skimming through their touring tires, there does seem to be a tradeoff between speed/grip and protection/durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schwalbe's breakout seems reasonable, though I'd like to see some comparables with other vendors for calibration, ideally by the folks at &lt;a href=&quot;https://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/06/13/bicycle-quarterly-performance-of-tires/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Quarterly&lt;/a&gt; who have done work trying to quantify aspects such as inflation pressure vs tire width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3022" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T22:08:08.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2013-09-07T22:11:49.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can (almost) always make a small bike fit bigger, but you can only make a big bike fit so small. If you're a 'tweener you can typically go either direction. Take sizing charts with more than a grain of salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T22:11:49.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-08T01:57:07.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty happy with neckband style headphones.  They fit around your neck, which shouldn't conflict with bike helmets.  Since they are attached via the neckband, it's easy to pull a bud out quickly and they will stay in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for ones that are water (sweat) resistant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004477D0K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004477D0K&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8062" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T01:57:07.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-08T03:03:06.253" Score="0" ViewCount="5225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started college and though it'd be nice to have a bike to get around and was looking at my mom's old road bike, but it definitely needs some work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Fuji VALite 1769 frame with Suntour aRX derailleurs. I'm not real sure about the rest of it, it's probably about 20-30 years old. It has relatively new cheap Bell tubes and tires and the chain looks a little worn, but mostly rust free. Everything seemed smooth while riding it aside from the problems listed below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front wheel either needs fixed or replaced. One of the spokes is broken and it has a pretty evident wobble when you ride it. Also, the front derailleur/gear changer (not sure about terminology here) needs adjusted and fixed. The bolt that holds the cable to the arm piece is broken and, thus, doesn't work. The grip tape on the left handle is also coming off, but that's not a critical repair. The brakes might need adjusted a bit, but it was hard to tell with the front one since the wheel was wobbling so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it to get it repaired and tuned up? Also, how much, about, would it cost to have everything fixed up so it's road worthy again? There's a couple small bike shops in town and a couple at college as well. This is the first time I've tried it out and won't have time this weekend to bring it to a shop so any input would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The wheel's probably my biggest concern then. I'm sure I can figure out how to get the brakes adjusted. The rear ones seemed ok and the front may be too, but I couldn't tell with the tire wobbling so much. The cable kept slipping out of the bolt on the derailleur and I tried to tighten it, but the bolt broke. After I get another bolt, is there something that should be done to keep it from slipping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8063" LastEditorUserId="8063" LastEditDate="2013-09-08T21:53:21.713" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T22:28:27.523" Title="Bike repair costs" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17523" CreationDate="2013-09-08T06:12:14.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to do the minimum.  It's probably not worth worrying about the front derailleur for example, unless you live in a hilly area.  Your local bike shop can hopefully repair the front wheel (replace the broken spoke and true the wheel) and check/adjust the brakes (ideally showing you how so you can do it yourself next time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the bar tape--once you've got the bike in ridable condition, you can replace that yourself for about $10 and an hour of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above can hopefully be done for around $60-70 or your local equivalent.  If that's still too much, nothing stops you from doing it all yourself if you have the time and patience to learn via online videos and Sheldon Brown's site and so on.  Then the monetary cost will be almost nothing, but the time cost will be several hours.  Don't attempt this unless you're somewhat handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T06:12:14.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-08T07:49:34.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is to have a portable speaker mounted on the bike or in a backpack. Perhaps a bit bulky, but it means your ears can compensate as they would do in a normal setting. A good friend of mine uses a case speaker with phone/iPod inside and has that strapped to the handlebar and stem with bungy cords. Not a particularly elegant solution aesthetically, but it works well and is great if you're on a budget!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T07:49:34.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2013-09-08T08:50:48.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally a slightly smaller frame than recommended is a good idea. I am 6 ft and I ride a 56 cm road bike though 57 - 58 cm is recommended by most manufacturers for my height. The advantages are lighter, more aerodynamic, more compact, more 'on top of things.' I have made adjustments by putting the seat as far back as possible, raising the seat post and substituting the stem for a -17 degreee 140cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you are small and my g/f is 5 foot 2 inches and she rides a 13&quot; mtb then the problem is that with such a small frame I think you will lose speed, she'd be better with a 14 - 14.5&quot; frame imo.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8066" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T08:50:48.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17467" CreationDate="2013-09-08T10:24:43.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something like the Bontrager &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/09573&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Interchange Market Pannier&lt;/a&gt; might suit you: it's a clip-on/clip-off pannier which can double as a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bontrager have &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/products/accessories/bags&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;other models available&lt;/a&gt;. I use an older model of their 'City Grocery Bag' or something like that: which has a carrying handle, but not backpack straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use it you need a rear rack on the bike, which it clips onto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T10:24:43.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17523" CreationDate="2013-09-08T11:57:10.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front wheel needs fixing, and, although it's something you can do yourself on a well-maintained bike, it's harder on an old bike and probably best left to a bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bar tape is easily repaired by wrapping with medical adhesive tape or (better) &quot;hockey tape&quot; used to wrap hockey sticks.  (Hockey tape is a good all-around repair kit &quot;tool&quot;.)  You could re-wrap with &quot;real&quot; tape, but that's kind of a fussy job and hard to get right the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have no idea what the cost for the wheel repair (and maybe a general tuneup) might be, as I do most of my own repairs.  However, I recently bought a completely new (inexpensive) front wheel for about $45, so maybe just replacing the wheel is the way to go.  And I also, a couple of years back, had my bike completely tuned up (including two new chainrings, new cables, new brake pads, new bar tape, wheel and headset bearings rebuilt) for about $300, so that would be an upper limit on what you might spend (though the guy probably did give me a modest discount on the labor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T11:57:10.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17651" CreationDate="2013-09-08T17:01:03.717" Score="21" ViewCount="146305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Schwinn Frontier Sport few months ago and started riding happily. After a few weeks my front rim brakes started creaking. It's so annoying in public places. My rear brake doesn't produce any sound but isn't as powerful as the front brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The retailer says cleaning would solve the front brake's issues and I got it cleaned, but nothing changed. Is there something I can do something myself to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7015" LastEditorUserId="13839" LastEditDate="2018-05-09T11:45:55.110" LastActivityDate="2020-03-13T00:52:00.557" Title="How do I stop my rim brakes making a squeaking/squealing sound?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-08T18:51:31.300" Score="1" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on my first coaster project with an old 700c frame which I want to make really clean using an Espresso Coaster Hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.espressowheels.com/griptape.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.espressowheels.com/griptape.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear black coaster brake hub with 32 holes. Includes 16T chrome sprocket, chainstay fittings, nuts and bolts. Hub width: 120mm, &#xA;axle diameter 3/18&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the Hub from a friend and I want to make a nice rear wheel with a White Velocity Deep V 700c&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/deep-v-622&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/deep-v-622&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have experience building custom wheels, so I was wondering if you know which length spokes I should get to have it built. &#xA;I emailed espresso but haven't heard back yet. I live in the Hague in the Netherlands so any recommendations as to where I should get the wheel built and how much I should pay would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone recommended I just take the rim and hub to the bike shop and have them pick the spokes and make it rightaway. Is that a better option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8068" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T05:45:18.287" Title="Which spokes should I get for an Expresso Coaster Brake with a Velocity Deep V 700c" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5173" CreationDate="2013-09-08T19:05:49.793" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I probably run my chain tighter than I should but a measurable flex of 1 to 2 cm should be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8069" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T13:27:05.533" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T13:27:05.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17400" CreationDate="2013-09-08T21:33:03.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To combine both comments and give you some advice in one go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to a bike shop in your area and get some advice on a bicycle, give them your price range, usually you get good advice, and it won't be much more expensive than the cheapest one you can find online.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check out the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2767/what-bikeequipment-for-a-long-daily-urban-commute&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; about equipment for commuters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd go for a mountain bike with wider road tires, or maybe road tires with some extra knobs on sides of the running area to provide grip when off-road, but the optimum depends on the road/off-road balance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the roads are indeed narrow and traffic is fast, then you really shouldn't get any excess weight on your handlebars such as a basket. This makes steering much slower and inaccurate. Get a rear-rack and some panniers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An internally geared hub lowers maintenance, but especially the cheaper ones are much less sturdy, and depending on how hilly your commute is and the amount of money you are willing to spend they might not have enough gear range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are mostly on-road don't get suspension. It adds weight and reduces durability and cycling efficiency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:30:32.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17085" CreationDate="2013-09-08T21:49:38.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your rear derailleur is compatible with &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/road/2300/product.-code-RD-2300.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;upto 26t&lt;/a&gt;. So there is a limit there. Apart from that I'm really not sure what is exactly compatible with what. If possible you should go to your LBS and ask for advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T21:49:38.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17530" CreationDate="2013-09-08T22:04:04.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you live in the Hague: There is a good chance &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lolabikesandcoffee.nl/lola/Bikes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these guys&lt;/a&gt; have experience with espressowheels. For a more general answer: just go to a bike shop with the hub and rim and they'll be able to help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T22:04:04.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17539" CreationDate="2013-09-08T22:24:12.367" Score="3" ViewCount="37846" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front derailleur on my mountainbike sometimes gets stuck in high gears. When this happens and I want to shift down I can nudge it a bit with my foot and it will spring back to the lower gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the spring is still strong enough because just a small nudge is enough. I haven't been fiddling with the two adjuster screws, and -as I said- if I nudge the derailleur after shifting it jumps to the correct position. The issue seems to be the (admittedly pretty large) amount of gunk that has gotten stuck in the derailleur over the years. I tried applying some WD-40 to the moving parts but two small applications have not really helped remove the gunk. Is this still the way to go or is there a better way to get the gunk out without completely removing the derailleur (which I -for now- am too lazy to do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8415/front-derailleur-doesnt-seem-to-be-moving&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; deals with a similar problem, but it hasn't moved beyond the diagnosis part (which I have already done I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[update:]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried liberally applying WD-40 a few times over the course of a week, including some (aided by hand on the derailleur) shifting after each application. This mostly removed the issue when shifting from 3 to 2, but 2 to 1 remained. Today I went to my local car-cleaning station and applied a high-pressure hose to the derailleur. This removed all the visible gunk. I applied some oil,  now shifting is as smooth as can be given the state of my chain and chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T00:47:31.943" Title="Front derailleur won't spring back to lower gears" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17411" CreationDate="2013-09-08T22:30:26.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The method I've found that works best is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;clamp the cable tightly at the desired length with vise grips.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cut the cable as close to the vise grips with a sharp pair of wire cutters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;twist the wire back into shape with a small amount of sticky grease (to help it hold shape).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;remove the cable outer end caps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;twist the wire (in direction of the wire grain) through the first end cap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;feed through the length of the cable outer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;hold the other end cap up to the light to align and twist as its fed through.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;check for fraying and fix between each step&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;don't forget to put cable donuts on in the right place&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;$5 isn't much for replacement cables that don't fray!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all your tips and help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T22:30:26.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17536" CreationDate="2013-09-08T22:43:32.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you believe you have diagnosed the problem then a clean and a service should be all that is required. You don't have to remove the FD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WD-40 will not displace mud effectively. I would: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use a hose with a decent amount of pressure to remove the gunk, wait for it to dry. (be careful not to spray around the bottom bracket)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;apply WD-40 to any moving parts on the derailleur but focus on the pivot points to remove old lube. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;once the WD-40 has evaporated apply some decent chain lube to the pivots.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't fix the problem and the cable is moving freely the derailleur may be bent or the spring has lost the required tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T00:14:02.547" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T00:14:02.547" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17542" CreationDate="2013-09-09T08:55:43.997" Score="1" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can get a giant anthem x4 26er for a decent price but was wondering if it would be suited for single tracks, trails and steepish rocky dirt track descends? Also, is the anthem a good climber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8028" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T09:15:40.397" Title="Giant anthem x4 26er for single track" Tags="&lt;trails&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17541" CreationDate="2013-09-09T09:15:40.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;By looking at the current frame geometry at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/anthem.x4/7865/45505/#geometry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/anthem.x4/7865/45505/#geometry&lt;/a&gt; we can assume the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Descending:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HA: 71 degrees head angle is pretty steep for downhill but for flowy singetracks it will be good. For the &quot;steepish rocky tracks&quot; it really depends on what you consider steep. Anything more than 10% and at over 15km/h may feel uncomfortable on the 71 degrees HA.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cockpit: You can improve the descending characteristics of the bike by using a shorter stem and wider bars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;travel: The 4 inch front and rear travel will not be enough for the very rough stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;verdict: So if you are very interested in aggressive MTB trail riding then this bike will not be appropriate. If you are just starting out then it'll be OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Climbing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HA &amp;amp; SA: The 71 HA and the 73 seat angle make for a great climber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;travel: The 4 inch front and rear travel make a great XC bike and will allow you to easily tackle long epic rides on the mountains (for example 30 to 80km rides). Increasing suspension usually reduces this number.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;verdict: Really good climber especially if it'll come with good (light) wheels and appropriate tyres.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T09:15:40.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-09T09:48:44.010" Score="5" ViewCount="1305" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I would like to start riding tandem. I've been reading about it and am worried that we are not physically eligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She's 165cm, I'm 195cm...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've considered buying a baby trailer and just cramming her into that along with the snacks and drinks, but she would rather prefer to be at the head of the convoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there tandems suited to pairs like us?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4005" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T11:35:01.923" Title="Tandem team with large height disparity - possible?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17536" CreationDate="2013-09-09T11:19:38.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would clean the derailleur but also replace the shifter cables and housing. In my experience, it is much more likely for the cables to be a little bit stuck than the actual derailleur itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5743" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T11:19:38.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17543" CreationDate="2013-09-09T11:35:01.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this should be possible, as long as your wife is happy in the navigator position and you are OK with being the bug-shield. Having the larger person on the back is difficult, but may be possible with unusual designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm always banging on about how important bike fit is and a tandem is no different. Do make sure you try as many as possible before buying as it's a big investment. If you are in or are visiting the UK, you can try the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tandeming.co.uk/&quot;&gt;Tandem Experience&lt;/a&gt;, which we found very helpful. We visited a (fairly) local bike shop and they found us a bike which fitted us and gave us some tips on a harmonious ride. It would be worth calling to discuss sizing in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/&quot;&gt;SJS Cycles/Thorn&lt;/a&gt; make popular touring tandems and they do a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-raven-twin-tandem-frame-and-fork-set-intense-yellow-gloss-prod10992/&quot;&gt;L/Xxs size&lt;/a&gt; frame which might fit you both (I couldn't see precise numbers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's very likely you'll need different crank lengths, or you may argue over gear selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are any number of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.burls.co.uk/tandem.php&quot;&gt;frame builders&lt;/a&gt; who could build something to fit you both, but that's a big investment, especially if you haven't had a chance to ride a tandem together properly. It's not just the bike fit that counts, you need to have at least a day out to get used to it and ensure you can both enjoy it and the compromises involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, don't let that put you off. One of the best things about tandeming is the easy conversation on a long ride. The next best thing is long, gentle down hills. Have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T11:35:01.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17536" CreationDate="2013-09-09T11:41:27.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had exactly the same problem last year due to running into snowy roads for a week or two. The front derailleur clutch jammed. DO the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put your gears to 1:1 position. This is the safest position to start with the optimum cable tension. Also, you will have less chances of messing things up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;loosen the joint that is holding the derailleur cable for the front derailleur clutch. This is actually located near where your cassettes are (gear coggs).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the clutch joints and housings properly. If you have a thin-brissled brush, it is good. Otherwise, use a cleaning cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean as thoroughly as possible and make sure all the debris and small granules are not blocking any of the intersections/joints.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tighten the cable back in the joint, ideally and exactly where it was before. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the up/down shifts for all the gear to ensure that you have got the correct tension level.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FUTURE REFERENCE:  Depending on how heavy your ride schedule is, you should do it ideally every 4 months or so. In this way, you keep your bike in good condition as well as the safety. You don't want to be in the middle of the traffic and bashing your head wondering why your gear is not shifting down :p&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T11:41:27.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17550" CreationDate="2013-09-09T13:07:22.780" Score="4" ViewCount="1864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a number of wheelsets and always struggle to get the hub logotype &quot;upwards&quot; and faces the valve hole in my rim, so that it aligns with the tire logo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of getting it right the first time, I end up lacing a whole bunch of spokes and then moving them one at a time until everything looks as intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I do it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3966" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T13:41:09.383" Title="Getting the hub logo facing the valve hole?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17507" CreationDate="2013-09-09T13:39:07.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Full suspension will not, by itself, prevent pinch flats. Since pinch flats are something that occur from the way the tire and tube move in regards to the rim, adding suspension won't change that. Now, adding suspension could move some of the pressure forward, depending on the pivots are arranged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding at 40psi on a 2.10 tire, you should be fine on just dirt roads; however, if you hit a really nice square edged pot hot at that speed you're probably going to flat on either type of bike. Preventing pinch flats is usually more about tire pressure and deformation of the tire than anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T13:39:07.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17548" CreationDate="2013-09-09T13:41:09.383" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Place a single leading spoke and a single trailing spoke- both on the same side of the hub- to get your placement correct. That way you only have to unthread two spokes if you're off. Once you've got it right, unthread the leading spoke if you're planning on lacing trailing first or vice versa and proceed as normal with lacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T13:41:09.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17582" CreationDate="2013-09-09T15:38:39.780" Score="1" ViewCount="2076" Body="&lt;p&gt;A buddy asked me to fix his bike. The shifter is broken. It's an older bike with a Sram SRT300i-71 shifter. I found an exact match on that is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sram-SRT300-Shifter-21-speed-New-Old-Stock-/160998850301?_trksid=m263&amp;amp;_trkparms=algo=SIC&amp;amp;its=I&amp;amp;itu=UCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI&amp;amp;otn=21&amp;amp;pmod=110993485215&amp;amp;ps=50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fairly cheap on ebay&lt;/a&gt;, but I also found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/737410/sram-mrx-comp-set-twist-shifter-7-speed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;similar model&lt;/a&gt; on REI for even cheaper. I was wondering if this or any other newer 7-speed Sram shifter would be compatible. I'm not super familiar with older model shifters like these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T23:38:41.293" Title="Compatibility for old Sram 7-speed shifter" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;7-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17328" CreationDate="2013-09-09T16:41:58.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally, yes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try these shifters with a Shimano Alivio front derailleur and it works very well. Rear i have a xt with a 11-32 casette and it works well too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If somebody wants to upgrade an old bike with 8 speeds shifters, these is a good oportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shimano 8 speed r440 road flat bar works with mountain bike front and rear derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8079" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T16:41:58.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-09T21:04:47.170" Score="3" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a new Shimano 105 cassette and chain put on my bike by bike shop. When I exceed 25 mph without pedaling, I get loud screeching sound (and feel some gripping), when I pedal it clearly goes away.  What can it be? My brakes are not touching my wheels. I think it is my cassette but am open to any other ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8086" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T21:58:35.637" Title="Odd Sound Coming from my new Cassette" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17554" CreationDate="2013-09-09T21:58:35.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't happen when you pedal ( and it wasn't like this before you took it to the shop ), it sounds like someone who worked on your bike at the shop managed to displace the plastic cassette guard that sits between the cassette on the spokes, or they somehow negatively affected the rear wheel hub. At any rate it, they didn't reassemble your bike properly. If I were you I would take it back to that shop right quick and make sure they fix it for you for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T21:58:35.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2013-09-09T23:31:46.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 29er Ti hard tail which I equipped with Jones Loop bars and easy-rolling Schwalbe Marathon tires. Very comfortable ride, rolls very well, but of course gearing is very low compared to my road bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I noticed was the effect of bar width and hand position on air resistance. By moving my hands into the middle of my flat MTB bars, I could ride 3 kph faster on the flat with the same effort. Try moving your hands in and out on a long flat section and watch your speedo.  Big difference! As big as the difference on a road bike between riding on the hoods or riding in the drops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why I opted for the Jones loop bar - it has many comfortable hand positions unlike regular flat MTB bars, and you can even stretch out a bit over your stem to get a lower body position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't notice what anyone else says about wheel base or geometry - my 29er feels stable at any speed, and my body position is quite comfortable. I like the extra give of the shock fork, which has ~ 5 mm of travel even when locked out. Together with the fatter tires, it takes a lot of the jarring punishment out of rough roads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next experiment will be with higher gearing. I haven't worked out whether I can switch from the 12-36 rear with 42-32-24 front to something like a 12-30 with 48-36-24 front. If so, it would be pretty good for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disagree with all the people who say fat tires are slower. Nonsense. They actually have lower rolling resistance and higher wind resistance. If you're a recreational rider, and not a racer, you may even benefit from the lower rolling resistance and never suffer much penalty for wider tires with higher wind resistance because you seldom go fast enough! Grip width and body height make more difference than anything else, although Q-factor is obviously a little worse on the MTB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And who needs to change brakes? My disk brakes are far superior to anything else I've used. Sure they weigh a little more. So what! My love handles weigh more than the brakes, so it doesn't matter. I'm not riding any tour-de-anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8087" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T23:31:46.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17593" CreationDate="2013-09-10T00:57:49.793" Score="8" ViewCount="1477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Garmin Edge 200 GPS unit. I commute from the center of Melbourne CBD, where there are many tall buildings and not a good line of sight to satellites. I park in an underground garage, so there isn't an option to turn on the GPS for a few minutes before I set off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found through experimentation that if I turn on the GPS as soon as I start riding, it takes longer to get a satellite lock than if I wait until I have clearer views of the sky and then turn it on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you consider the first 5 kilometers of the ride, if I turn it on at kilometer 0, it can be 5 kilometers (or even longer) before it gets a lock. But if I turn it on at kilometer 2 (when I'm clear of the tallest buildings), it will get a lock almost immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any basis to my experience? Am I better off waiting until I'm a bit clearer, or is there another strategy I can use to try to capture my entire ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've experimented with a few things, and have found that the most reliable method seems to be to turn it on and then not move until I get a fix. This works quickly regardless of the buildings around me. It seems that temporarily blocking a satellite by moving makes it take a lot longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2013-11-09T00:33:46.663" LastActivityDate="2013-11-09T00:33:46.663" Title="Should I wait for clear views of the sky before turning on my Garmin Edge GPS?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17442" CreationDate="2013-09-10T01:03:05.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few options to prevent flat tires. Each have their pros and cons. Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires are a decent way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick summary of the options is below for any others who wander through this thread. Flat tires are best avoided, but a basic knowledge of replacing and/or repairing a flat tire would also be advised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Puncture-resistant Tires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These have a thicker layer of rubber on the outside rim, giving sharp objects more to go through. However, there isn't any practical difference between these and regular tires with regard to flats. If you go over something sharp, it will go through your tire regardless. Frankly not worth the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire Liners&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liners consist of flexible Kevlar or nylon and are placed between the inner tube and the outside tire. These can be incorporated into the tire itself and sold as one piece (as with the Schwalbe Marathon Plus you mention and others). I use these personally, and haven't had a flat tire in over six years of trails and other harsh off-road use. These do add some weight to the tire, but only minimally add to rolling resistance. The feel and traction is comparable to a regular inner tube. These generally offer the best value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solid Tires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solid tires are never going to go 'flat' on you, as they are made of solid rubber. However, they tend to be very heavy (increasing rotational resistance), and don't always give you the same traction and feel as a properly-inflated inner tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another recent fad was to load your inner tube with a 'goo' (Slime or other sealants). The idea behind this is that, as your wheel turned with biking, the inside surface of your inner tube would be coated with this substance. Any small puncture would be clogged and rapidly sealed by the escaping goo. This tended to weigh your tire unevenly as you bike, and you need to be aware of the way your tire is rotated when parking and re-inflating your tires (else the goo may clog the air valve too). It also doesn't work so well for larger holes, and it can make patch repairs messy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7099" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T01:40:53.587" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T01:40:53.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-10T01:06:41.277" Score="0" ViewCount="3789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a shimano br-m446 installed in my MTB, i recently replaced it with new pads, my problem is that it is squealing so bad, with a mild to moderate vibration during braking in downhills. and it's really really annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't placed anything on them, i clean my rotors with water and laundry detergent i don't know if that causes the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if so what should i do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8089" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T02:46:40.680" Title="Hydraulic Brake Loud Noise and Vibration" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17560" CreationDate="2013-09-10T01:36:01.717" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have any experience with that particular unit, but I do have a Garmin Oregon 450, which is a &quot;hiking&quot; GPS, but I find it works great for cycling.  I've found there's 2 important things to getting a lock on satellites. First, as you mention, is a clear view of the sky. The second important thing is don't move.  The faster you are moving the more difficult it is for the unit to lock onto a satellite.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice is to turn it on before you ride and wait until it has a lock before you start riding. I've found that I don't really need a view of the sky, as I can turn it on in my house or in my garage, and get a signal no problem.  I can't however, turn it on in my office, where there's quite a bit of concrete around me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also find it helps if you turn it on in the last place you turned it off. I think the GPS assumes that it's in the same spot it was last time, and tries to lock onto the same satellites. I find if I travel with the unit turned off, it takes longer to get a signal when I do turn it on.  I don't know if this is how it actually works, but this is how it seems to work for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Signal is also affected by where you are on the earth.  It works better when you're closer to the equator. You're in Melbourne, which isn't close to the equator (-38 degrees latitude, but a little closer than I am up in Canada (45 degrees latitude).  I don't think you're far enough that it should be a serious problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T01:36:01.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17560" CreationDate="2013-09-10T02:55:13.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a common problem with GPS that has no wifi or cellular network assistance. In any case you should wait for the GPS to have a lock before you ride. What I usually do is get out on the road, stop, wait for lock then continue riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You obviously don't want to stop and wait forever. Good thing is while it's trying lock your position, you can see on the display how many satellites it can see and how strong their signals are. So, if just outside your office you see that only there are only three satellites the GPS can see, better to go to a near open space (e.g. the federation square) and try to get a lock there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other option is to use a mobile that has a GPS. Mobiles can use wifi and cellular network (which are plenty in CBDs) to lock position quickly. Possible down side is less accuracy on cheap mobiles, but I don't think that's a big issue for commuting where the roads around cities are straight. Mobiles should also be more accurate with tall buildings around where satellites signal are patchy and completely blanketed by wifi and cellular networks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T02:55:13.933" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5602" CreationDate="2013-09-10T03:48:18.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Gates belt drive. After getting tension right (using the iPhone app) initially I did not touch it for a year and was surprised to find it had not changed. For me at least, no stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T03:48:18.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17571" CreationDate="2013-09-10T03:57:35.747" Score="4" ViewCount="6054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about switching my Salsa El Mariachi 29er mountain bike from singlespeed to gears. I love the reliability and simplicity of the singlespeed, but I've been doing more rides that involve both road and trail riding, so it's tough to find a singlespeed gear ratio that can do both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do lots of really long (~75 mile) rides and some multi-day bikepacking trips through the Colorado backcountry, so I need a drivetrain that is really, really reliable. I'm also fairly tough on components (currently, I replace my SS drivetrain each year), so I want to get something that's not too expensive. I currently am running a bashguard (using a SLX triple crank), and I'd like to keep running a bashguard since it's awesome to have one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of running a 1x9, or maybe 2x9 (with bashguard) setup with SRAM X9 or X7 components. But then I read some great reviews of the new clutch derailleurs (Sram &quot;Type 2&quot; or Shimano &quot;Shadow plus&quot;) - people are saying that they keep the chain running lot nicer than the old type derailleurs. I've heard good things about running a 1x10 with the new Shimano Zee derailleur. The many drivetrain options are getting a little ridiculous!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what do you think? What drivetrain will keep running through the dust, mud, and crashes, while still keeping the price to something reasonable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, Dan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8092" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T06:44:20.013" Title="What's a good, reliable mountain bike drivetrain (1x10?)" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-09-10T06:49:28.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same problem for a long time.  You need 2 things to significantly lessen sweatiness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you have to get a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;headband&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  A lot of tennis players, like Rafa Nadal wear them.  You can use a bandana if you hold it like a diamond and then fold it down and tie it around your head.  You can use a 70's era John McEnroe type elastic headband, too, if you don't care about fashion.  This keeps sweat from running down your face, neck, chest and back. Leave the headband or bandana on until you stop sweating - usually 5 -10 minutes after the ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, before you leave fill a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;metal water bottle with ice&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and the beverage of your choice.  When you stop biking, put it on your forehead, neck, face, chest and anywhere else you think it will cool you down.  Plastic water bottles are about 80% as effective.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8094" LastEditorUserId="8094" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T06:57:12.660" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T06:57:12.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17562" CreationDate="2013-09-10T07:10:34.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested in the comments, follow the burn in procedure. If that fails, then you can try to reset the caliper alignment (follow the installation instructions or one of the many sites on the internet). Also clean the disc with a volatile oil solvent such as alcohol or methylated spirits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that fails, it may be your pads - what did you have and what did you replace them with? Organics tend to make less noise but don't perform as well or last as long, metallic compounds tend to be better performing material and last longer but are more prone to noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T07:10:34.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17566" CreationDate="2013-09-10T07:28:21.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For decades people have been doing marathon trips on the likes of X7 and XT and their precursors with out problems. I have a 25 year old bike on SLX gear that got heavily used in its day, but the drive train is still acceptably smooth and I would trust it to last on any multiday epic (the rider has not withstood the test of time so well). Durability (at the levels you have mentioned) is a problem that was solved decades ago. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advances in bike equipment is incremental. There is nothing that is really new, just a refinement of whats been shown to work. Getting 'last years' model that is half the price with a proven track record has something going for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly what happens is people say its a must have because they want you to buy it. This comes from a) The sellers, b) the advertisers c) the buyers (who need to justify the big $$$ they just put down).  Buy the best your wallet and afford and the worst your ego will let you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T07:28:21.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17566" CreationDate="2013-09-10T08:39:22.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won't suggest any brands but here are some ingredients that will allow you to go cheap and reliable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go 1x9. 2x is more expensive, more noisy, heavier and generally problematic if you can get away with 1x. Just make sure you calculate some possible ring and cassete options so you know that you'll be able to tackle all ascents and descends you need to. A spreadsheet works great for that. Divide ring teeth to cassette teeth to find the ratios that you need. Ride friends' bikes on ascends and descends for find your numbers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bashguard: Do you really need it? Please check on your existing one whether you see impacts. Have you used it so far? If not, you don't need one. Especially now that you'll go to a single and smaller ring, chances that you really need one are very slim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chainring: Go with a &quot;narrow-wide&quot; one. There are at least 5 companies making such rings now. The narrow wide pattern of the teeth allows for maximum chain retention eliminating the need for a chain guide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rear derraileur: Definitelly go with one which has a clutch mechanism. It does work wonders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crank: You'll most probably be able to use your current SLX crankset, but I'm not 100% sure on that. There is a possibility that you'll need to do some research and play around with spacers in order to have the perfect chainline so all cogs of the cassette are working well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain: If you go 1x9 get a 9sp chain. If you go 1x10 get a 10sp chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T08:39:22.357" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-10T11:22:52.083" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into buying a second hand bicycle. What should one look out for (frame and component wise) when buying second hand, both for hardtail and full suspension xc/all mountain type bicycles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8028" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T11:28:58.960" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T11:28:58.960" Title="What to look out for in a second hand bike buy" Tags="&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-09-12T13:10:53.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17586" CreationDate="2013-09-10T12:28:53.277" Score="2" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not really maintained a bike since I was young (loooong time ago) and just got one second hand but the rear wheel slips off on hard uphill rides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im sure its something simple so sorry if its a stupid question but the bolts are as tight as I can get them, is there something missing that I should be doing? Ive added some images if needed! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help :D &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/14cEW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear Wheel Image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UaB2J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear Wheel2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8099" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T20:59:21.913" Title="Roadmaster Chromium Edition rear wheel falls off" Tags="&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17674" CreationDate="2013-09-10T12:49:10.327" Score="3" ViewCount="3101" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: if you have a SRAM Rival front derailleur I'd love to know if yours looks &quot;funny&quot; like mine does--it's described in &lt;strong&gt;bold&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a SRAM Rival groupset (from late 2011), including front derailleur/mech, crankset, and brifters.  It all works fine except the front derailleur, which is a nightmare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is just under two years old.  For the first six or eight months (but that included five months of winter), everything was fine.  But one day I shifted from the small to the big ring, and it threw the chain right off the outside.  It worked sort of OK much of the time for a few months, but maybe one shift out of ten, it would throw the chain (always to the outside).  It started to get worse, and I tried adjusting the cable tension and limit screws, all to no avail.  If I adjusted a bit farther down, it would never shift to the small ring.  Up a bit and it threw off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took it to a quite professional cycle shop, and for about $20 they adjusted it.  From what I could tell and what they told me, they reoriented the derailleur on the seat tube, moving its rear slightly outward (not sure about height adjustment).  It worked fine for a few rides.  Then it went back to the way it had been, throwing the chain off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept trying to adjust it myself, but it would either not shift up, or it would throw the chain outside.  Or it would sometimes shift properly, but only if the rear was around gear 6 (of 10), and not otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have read the SRAM manual, watched videos online, followed all the steps from initial installation (including completely removing the clamp, cleaning, and reinstalling).  I moved the derailleur down as far as I could without overlapping the big ring teeth.  I carefully adjusted everything.  And I'm right back where I started: either it won't shift up, or it throws straight off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things that look strange.  First is that &lt;strong&gt;the outer plate of the derailleur is not what I would call straight&lt;/strong&gt;.  Rather, it seems to veer inward (toward the bike's centerline) at the back of the cage.  That is, the outer plate and inner plate do not appear to be really parallel--but I don't think it was ever any different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second weird thing is how the chain throws off the outside.  It's like the shift is mostly going OK, but only about one link of chain sits where it should, and then the tendency of the chain to go straight when viewed from the top causes it to just run at the same angle from the small ring to the big one and right onto the crank arm.  It's sort of hard to describe this, but when I watch closely while shifting, it's hard to see how it's ever going to work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a number of reasons I wonder if the derailleur is actually broken.  But it looks fine, and the shop I took it to last time (which sadly is now across the world from me, or I'd go back) said it was OK.  And there was no crash or anything else to cause it in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been fixing my own bikes for two decades.  This one has me stuck (and I'm not looking forward to visiting another shop with it, partly because the shops where I live now mostly don't seem that great).  Do you think the derailleur is simply broken and needs replacement?  How would I even tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, some people apparently use Shimano 6800/7800 front derailleurs with SRAM shifters.  Some of them claim it works much better.  Any thoughts on that?  Parts are expensive where I live, so I'm a little hesitant to go buy an Ultegra or Dura-Ace part unless I'm pretty sure it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T01:07:16.297" Title="SRAM Rival front derailleur throws chain to the outside, even after professional adjustment" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16689" CreationDate="2013-09-10T14:12:18.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The freehub turned out to be a Formula freehub. I managed to source it from Silverfish UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7463" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T14:12:18.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17579" CreationDate="2013-09-10T14:38:18.360" Score="4" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the purpose of work commuting, what are the features that one should look for in a messenger bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size of the bag?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strap configuration?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color/Design?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not looking for specific product recommendations (Unless the product illustrates the concept) but instead want generalizations that can be used to select a bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T15:24:38.367" Title="What to look for in a Messenger Bag" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;messenger-bags&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17577" CreationDate="2013-09-10T14:51:38.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Waterproof. Not with a waterproof cover, but really, really waterproof, like e.g. the Ortlieb Messenger bags. That's the one thing that is paramount if you also want to commute in bad weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Size depends on what you carry. If it's just some tools, use a saddle bag. If it's a change of clothes, especially shirt and trousers, look for a larger one so you don't have to compress that stuff to much and leave wrinkles. If you also want to buy groceries on the way, as I sometimes do, a larger bag is also good if you don't have or don't want to use a rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strap configuration should be such that you feel comfortable riding with it. This depends mostly on your size and what kind of bike you ride, i.e. how far bent over you ride. I have the classical rucksack design with shoulder straps, belt and breast strap, because I don't take the pack off hundreds of times a day but enjoy the fact that the pack stays where it's supposed to. (Edit: I ride a converted track frame with my handlebars &gt;20cm below my saddle, so very bent over)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color/design: Whatever you like. I picked mine for visibility, so black and dark colours are out for me, but that's really personal taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T14:51:38.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-09-10T15:13:18.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a good antiperspirant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't cycle in your work clothes, carry them separately&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear sports clothing designed to wick moisture away and evaporate it quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use panniers rather than carrying a bag or rucksack on you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease off 5 mins before you arrive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go slow :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="572" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T15:13:18.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17577" CreationDate="2013-09-10T15:28:47.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I keep in my (not messenger) backpack for commuting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change of clothes (I cycle in shorts &amp;amp; jersey)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shoes (I cycle in SPDs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare change in case I forget my wallet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deodorant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mobile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waterproof cover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waterproof cycling jacket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small umbrella  (for when I get off the bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your work place lets you have lockers or some other storage you can probably keep some of this in your office. I keep a lock, multi tool and 2 spare tubes in a saddle bag as well although my office has a garage so if I'm leaving the bike in public view I take a D-Lock in my bag too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask yourself how much of this you need to carry and get a bag that solves those problems. It's easier to get a bag that's too big than one that's too small, I sometimes get milk and/or bread on the way home on occasion, as you don't know what you might end up needing to carry one day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend getting a bag which has separable compartments, zipped pockets (inside and out) and is waterproof of comes with a waterproof cover. Compartments are useful because you can keep your clothes away from your regular stuff you take to work. Zipped pockets for keeping spare change, mobile phone, etc. separate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't feel comfortable wearing a messenger bag while cycling, I find that having only one strap it moves around too much so I ride with a backpack but each to their own. Also remember that the most comfortable position wearing the bag standing up will be hugely different to when you're riding so try to adjust the straps whilst sat on the bike (get someone to hold you &amp;amp; the bike up while you do this!) to get an idea of where is the most comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2446/why-do-cyclists-prefer-messenger-bags-over-backpacks?rq=1&quot;&gt;Why do cyclists prefer messenger bags over backpacks?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3398" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T15:28:47.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17551" CreationDate="2013-09-10T16:50:53.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit: Just checked an old copy of Sutherland's Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics (6th edition), and the SRT300i is actually Shimano-compatible, pulling 2:1 ratio. I've updated the comment below to correct that mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many SRAM shifters, are only compatible with SRAM &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/technologies/1..1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;1:1 Actuation&quot;&lt;/a&gt;* derailleurs. Shimano shifters and derailleurs use a &quot;2:1&quot; ratio of cable pull to actuation - the MRX you linked to at REI is one of the few SRAM models that are designed to be Shimano-compatible, like the SRT300i you have now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The SRAM ratio is actually closer to 1.1:1, while the Shimano ratio is about 1.7:1, but the common terminology rounds these values. The spacing between cogs in 7- and 8-speed systems is 5mm. In practice, this means that one click of a SRAM shifter pulls about 4.5mm of cable to move the shifter over 5mm, while each click of a Shimano-compatible shifter pulls only 2.9mm of cable to do the same.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2013-09-11T23:38:41.293" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T23:38:41.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17585" CreationDate="2013-09-10T19:53:56.280" Score="5" ViewCount="556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for some off road mtb 28&quot; tires and couldn't find anything suitable . There were only some tires for road or hybrid bikes .Then I started looking for 28er mtbs and could't find anything also . So what is the reason that they don't produce any 28er mtbs ???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T20:25:24.227" Title="28er Mountain bikes" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17583" CreationDate="2013-09-10T20:25:24.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you are looking for a cube CLS LTD PRO based on other questions you asked.  If so, that bike likly came with Schwalbe Smart Sam, Active 622x44 tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire sizing terminology is a bit weird. Despite the same sized rims, mountain bike companies and road bike companies use different terms to describe tires that fit the same rim sizes. It is even more confusing due to mixing of metric and imperial measurement systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for the same or smaller tires you'll probably want to look for 622x44 size. The first number is the rim size (622mm) and the second number is the tire width (44mm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted larger tires, they would probably be described differently since they would likely be mountain bike tires, they would be described as 29x2.2 (which effectively means 622mm rim with 2.2 inch tires). The 29 is to describe the effective outer diameter of the tire, not the rim size, you may even see it described as 622x56 instead of 29x2.2, but it's hard to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon brown has a good page that goes in to detail about various tire and rim sizes and may be better at describing the oddities of tire and wheel size descriptions, it's a good read. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T20:25:24.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17574" CreationDate="2013-09-10T20:59:21.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @ Daniel R Hicks has suggested you need the proper hardware. From the photo it appears you have conventional/automotive nuts. You need flanged nuts or oversized washers with a serrated face or both. The oversized washers are thicker and have a larger overall diameter but the correct size hole for the axle.The dropout is the slotted section of the frame that the axle slides into. You may have an issue with the condition of the dropouts. If the rust has pitted the frame enough, the hardware may be biting into the high spots resulting in insufficient grip by the nut. Clean the clamping area with some emery cloth, wire brush or a file then clamp the nut tight. The Park Tool BlueBook has a torque value of 22-33 footpounds as a guideline. To give you a comparison that is about 1/3 of what you would tighten a cars lugnut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T20:59:21.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7813" CreationDate="2013-09-10T21:58:08.240" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;@ttarchala's answer is awesome.  But I thought I could provide a bit more info for anyone else looking for info.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a coil fork (fork with a spring inside), there are two ways to adjust preload.  First off you should get a spring that is the right tension for your weight.  For Rockshox forks there are 6 or 7 different spring tensions that are designed for different weight ranges.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/EAibmsEsobL1qecdZXOxpDj-mp3eY0aDZIcMn4kOhnY/mtime:1372788167/sites/default/files/techdocs/rockshox_suspension_fork_coil_spring_chart_gen_0000000004149_rev_c.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rockshox spring diagram.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the right spring in your fork you can adjust using the preload control (pictured in the question).  See @ttarchala's answer for a good description of what this does.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air forks generally just have one way to adjust fork preload.  Looks like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlC9N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(That is a picture of an airpump adding air to an air fork.  For more info see: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicyclethailand.com/setting-the-sag-on-mtb-suspension-forks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bicyclethailand.com/setting-the-sag-on-mtb-suspension-forks/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T21:58:08.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-11T04:02:51.877" Score="3" ViewCount="2225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with Alfine 11 and belt drive. I think I could use a 175mm crank, certainly a 172.5, rather than the 170 Alfine comes in (height 6'1&quot; frame size 60cm) and going a little lighter and prettier with Ultegra or Dura Ace appeals to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All are two-piece chainsets compatible with the Hollowtech II bottom bracket. All have 130 BCD. Seems like a straight swap is possible. The only thing I can thing of that might go wrong is belt alignment - is the offset of the larger chainring mounts on the road sets going to be the same as the mounts on the Alfine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to find that the quoted chainline for the Alfine chainset is 42.7mm - I can't find that figure for the other options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;new information: Gates produce a bunch of shims and spacers - mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.g-boxx.com/pdf/Gates-Shimano-manual-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the engineering manual&lt;/a&gt; but I haven't been able to find them for sale anywhere. It looks like with this kit an Ultegra chainset will work but it's an expensive experiment without knowing for sure. I'll have to email Gates to try and find the kit, then buy the chain set if the rings look like they will correct the chainline - which from all information must be as perfect as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="1914" LastEditDate="2013-09-11T23:49:14.850" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T23:49:14.850" Title="Chainring offset - chainline - of Alfine vs. Ultegra/Dura Ace" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;belt-drive&gt;&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17589" CreationDate="2013-09-11T04:23:00.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Alfine has a chinaline of 42.7mm for a single crank and the Ultegra 43.5mm for the double and 45mm for the triple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the double the chainline is measured &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html#standards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;halfway between the 2 rings&lt;/a&gt; so the outer ring will be even further out, but the inner further in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon says &quot;With typical 5 mm chainring spacing, this puts the inner at 41 mm, the outer at 46 mm&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.7mm or 3.3mm both sound like a long way for a belt drive to me. But I'm not an expert there. You my be able to use the BB spacers to offset the whole crankset 1.7mm towards the drive side, but I'd rather not go down that route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all assuming there's no extra molding on the cranks or rings to get in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2013-09-11T06:33:33.710" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T06:33:33.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-11T08:57:02.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had very good experience with Sennheiser PMX680 headphones.  I find they sound quite good considering their price and form factor.  They stand up very well to the abuses of sweat and rain (I've had mine for two years, and I run in them every day, sweating a lot).  The earphones are connected by a springy neckband which does not touch your head, and is quite compatible with the helmet.  The neckband pressure is enough to keep the headphones securely in my ears, but I'll forget I've got something grabbing onto my head during a long run or ride.  Nobody's paying me to sing the praises of my Sennheisers, I'm just really happy with them.  They've been around for a little while, and can be had for around thirty five dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8106" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T08:57:02.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17560" CreationDate="2013-09-11T11:31:04.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; worth switching on the device as soon as you start heading home, even if you are inside a building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it may not acquire a lock inside, the signal might be strong enough to download some of the data the device has to acquire, meaning it locks quicker once you reach clearer skies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth bearing in mind that acquiring a GPS signal involves quite a lot of complicated steps, many of which might impact &quot;lock time&quot; in seemingly random manners.. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GPS_signals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GPS signals page on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; gives a good overview (or, shows how complicated the system is)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the signal from a satellite is lost while its ephemeris data is being acquired, the receiver must discard that data and start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be causing some of the slowdown if buildings briefly occlude the satellite and it needs to start downloading the ephemeris data from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2013-09-13T06:58:52.687" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T06:58:52.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-11T13:46:44.540" Score="4" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to wash the pack part of a hydration pack (not the resevoir/hose)? Is it just like a back pack: cold water and a little detergent with air/tumble dry low?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T00:53:41.627" Title="How to wash a hydration pack (not resevoir)?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17594" CreationDate="2013-09-11T15:34:47.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what I found from Dakine (brand I have), guess I should've trusted Google first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DAKINE Pack Washing Instructions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We recommend washing your DAKINE backpack by hand in cold water with a mild detergent and soft bristled&#xA;  brush. If hand washing is not going to do the trick, the second option&#xA;  is to use a &quot;front loader&quot; washing machine. This is better because it&#xA;  has no center post for straps to catch on. There is still a chance the&#xA;  straps could catch so place your pack inside a pillowcase or mesh bag&#xA;  before washing. Wash your pack in cold water with a mild detergent on&#xA;  gentle cycle, Do not bleach your pack. Hang to dry in a warm but shady&#xA;  place, the sun could change the color of your pack. Switching the pack&#xA;  from inside out to right side out throughout the drying process is the&#xA;  best way prevent mildew. Damage caused by washing packs or bags will&#xA;  not be covered by warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T15:34:47.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17598" CreationDate="2013-09-11T20:42:49.297" Score="7" ViewCount="15137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got a bike with discs (BB7).&#xA;The feel of the braking is so-so on the first ride (5km commute from LBS to home).&#xA;I think the cable for the rear needs a little tightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even so, I don't feel the &lt;em&gt;big change&lt;/em&gt; I had been advertised when moving from cantis.&#xA;I know I will get more reliability on the wet and mud but still...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering, is there anything such as a break-in period for brakes?&#xA;Is there something specific I should/should not do?&#xA;Is there something specific I should/should not verify to find whether my set-up is right or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T08:05:51.590" Title="Disc brake break-in?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17597" CreationDate="2013-09-11T21:05:03.530" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes, both mechanical and hydraulic, require the pads to be bedded in before they reach optimal performance. There are many different views to the best way to do this but manufactuer instructions generally revolve around several start/stops increasing the pressure on each stop to build up heat and speed up the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally don't do anything special and just use the brakes just bearing in mind that they are bedding in (ie. no hard braking into a tight corner) until I have the feel of them and are willing to trust them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the Avid bed-in procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;warning:  the bed-in process requires you to perform&#xA;  heavy braking.  you must be familiar with the power&#xA;  and operation of disc brakes.  braking heavily when&#xA;  not familiar with the power and operation of disc&#xA;  brakes could cause you to lose control of your bicycle &#xA;  which could lead to a crash which could lead to &#xA;  serious injury and/or death.  if you are unfamiliar with&#xA;  the power and operation of disc brakes you should&#xA;  have the bed-in process performed by a qualified&#xA;  bicycle mechanic. then you should [practice your&#xA;  riding and braking techniques on a flat and level&#xA;  surface prior to aggressive riding]. &#xA;  to  safely  achieve  optimal  results, remain seated on the bike during the entire bed-in procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (approximately 19 kilometers or 12 miles per&#xA;  hour), then firmly apply the brakes until you are&#xA;  at walking speed.  Repeat approximately twenty&#xA;  times.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Accelerate the bike to a faster speed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (approximately 32 kilometers or 20 miles per&#xA;  hour).  Then very firmly and suddenly apply the&#xA;  brakes until you are at walking speed.  Repeat &#xA;  approximately ten times.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;important: do not lock the wheels up at any point during the bed-in procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Allow the brakes to cool prior to any additional riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;this concludes the disc brake pad and rotor bedding in procedure. you did a great job! you are now ready to ride. enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other set up to check on mechanical disc brakes is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the caliper centered, loosen up the mounting bolts and spin the wheel. Pull the brakes tightly and while holding the brake on redo up the mounting bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the gap between pad and rotor, with a mechanical disc brake this is a manual exercise and different to hydraulics. Each brake will have a different method here is a link for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/avid-reg-mechanical-disc-adjustment&quot;&gt;BB7s&lt;/a&gt;. This process also checks the cable slack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-09-11T21:34:33.873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T21:34:33.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15209" CreationDate="2013-09-11T22:34:05.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use mine filming in my Velocity Clip, and I have not had any problems yet. I have at least 40 hours of Downhill Mountain biking video. I'm using a Motorola Droid 4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8111" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T02:06:34.590" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T02:06:34.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17594" CreationDate="2013-09-12T00:53:41.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned and you've discovered, the safest way to clean it is to simply follow the manufacturer's instructions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend and I both have Camelbaks. Their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.camelbak.com/en/sitecore/content/CamelBak/Global/Support/Product-Care/Cleaning/How-to-clean-your-CamelBak-pack.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; says: &quot;DO NOT wash your pack in a washing machine.&quot; I've done this with both our bags a whole lot of times and have never had a problem. I've also put a bunch of backpacks through the washing machine that weren't supposed to go there, never with a problem. (Can you tell I'm lazy?) And a hydration pack is basically just a backpack with a special compartment for the bladder, and maybe a bit of extra padding or insulation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would, however, recommend hang drying them, no matter how you choose to wash it. Dryers can get hot enough to melt the nylon that these kinds of bags are made out of. Low is probably safe, but why risk it? They easily dry overnight, even indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T00:53:41.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-12T04:25:18.677" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i ride my bike all the time. I use the in ear headphones that came with the iphone. I have no need for anything better since it only takes about 15 minutes to get to my workplace. But if you really want one, I would go with the beats solo. You can see more about it here at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thehonestreviews.com/audio/beats-solo-hd-on-ear-headphone-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thehonestreviews.com/audio/beats-solo-hd-on-ear-headphone-review/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8114" LastEditorUserId="8114" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T03:41:12.573" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T03:41:12.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17613" CreationDate="2013-09-12T05:55:20.983" Score="13" ViewCount="15434" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok folks, I'm confused and in need of advice.  On my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raleighusa.com/archive/2009-road/sojourn/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;commuter (touring) bike&lt;/a&gt;, I just upgraded my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/avid/products/bb5-road-mechanical-disc-brake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BB5's&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/avid/products/avid-bb7-road-s-mechanical-disc-brake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BB7's&lt;/a&gt;.  In the process, decided/realized that I also need to replace my cables and housing (@mikes was right in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12445/do-i-need-better-springs-on-my-disc-brakes&quot;&gt;his answer to a past question of mine&lt;/a&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In surfing the 'net I see that I can get compressionless cable housing or &quot;regular&quot; cable housing.  Compressionless seems to be preferred by folks interested in higher levels of performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I have always trusted Sheldon Brown's advice on a variety of bike related topics.  He &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;seems to say&lt;/a&gt; that compressionless housing is made for (and should only be used for) indexed shifters and it might be dangerous to use it for brakes.  However, there are several vendors (&lt;a href=&quot;http://jagwire.com/index.php/products/v/road_pro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;),(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_175267_-1___202417&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;) who sell compressionless housing made specifically for brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is Sheldon wrong?  Will I be introducing additional risk in my braking system by using them? Will compressionless cable housings make a significant difference in the performance of my mechanical disc brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T22:26:03.177" Title="What's the deal with compressionless brake cable housing?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17597" CreationDate="2013-09-12T08:05:51.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;...feel the big change I had .....&quot; &#xA;This may be your problem. Well adjusted high end canti's with good rubber, in the dry, are more than capable of out performing many discs.  BB7's are very good cable brakes, and will out perform cantis in most conditions, but in ideal conditions the cantis might even be better in shear stopping power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure your expectations are not too high? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discs excel in less than ideal conditions - rain, mud grim etc, and have lower maintenance requirements. They also give better feel and control than canties so feathering and such like become easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have followed @DWGKNZ answer, ask someone (your LBS) with expriance in disc brakes what they think - just make sure its not someone used to high end discs on 250mm rotors.....  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need more stopping after all the above, you may be able to change to pads to improve performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T08:05:51.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-12T08:08:42.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you pretty much nailed the main issues regarding fit and hearing the surroundings. True in-ears are a hazard if you keep the volume too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One issue I missed you your discussion is sweat resistance. I don't know how long your commute is, but depending on length and effort I find that I eventually get my headphones wet, and I found headphones are not taking this well, even most of those advertised as &quot;sports&quot; headphones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sennheiser sport headphones (I've tried &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sennheiser-OMX-680-High-Performance-Earphones/dp/B0035JKJ4U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;) fail after about 6 months and they refuse to replace them citing &quot;abuse&quot; internals were completely corroded. The remote control on the wire gave out even quicker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Philips (I've tried various versions of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-SHQ3217-10-Earhook-Headphone/dp/B009CKD9RU/ref=pd_sim_ce_3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) fail after about 9 months to a year, the remote fails a bit earlier, and after about 6 months I experience volume drops. Philips has been very generous in sending me replacements (I'm on the third one now) but of cours this is not ideal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm currently trying &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.polkaudio.com/products/ultrafit2000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; from polk audio for a change (over the ear instead of in-ear). I find that this leads to both more wind noise, and better contact with my surroundings. A mixed bag really. It is still too early to tell how it holds up to my sweat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2013-09-17T14:03:54.997" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T14:03:54.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-09-12T08:16:02.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An electric bike which helps you uphill will lower-down the effort leading into less sweating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested two of them and the feel is quite natural – it automatically adds power when you step into pedals a little more while let you just ride if you want to go calm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7851" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T08:16:02.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17607" CreationDate="2013-09-12T10:39:13.843" Score="3" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Viking Torino 21 speed road bike. The bike has Shimano Sora derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain is in need of replacing but I don't know what chain to buy. Here is a photo I have taken of the current chain, can anyone advise please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fNWzE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;KMC chain&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8067" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T22:20:58.877" Title="What chain is this?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17606" CreationDate="2013-09-12T10:48:27.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't help you identify the chain you currently have but the replacement would be any hyperglide compatible 7 speed chain. An example is a Shimano CN-HG50 6/7/8 speed chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T10:48:27.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17577" CreationDate="2013-09-12T10:54:39.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For straps, &lt;strong&gt;ensure&lt;/strong&gt; that the bag has a cross-strap (that loops around the other side of your body to the bag), or it will be forever falling off/moving to your front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For size - I've had a Timbuk2 Medium Messenger, but currently get away with a Timbuk2 Catapult. Certainly this manufacturer has a huge range of colours available, and being able to pick a nice one is a bonus - but it's really the design/comfort (they really think about them being for cyclists) and quality of the product that I was interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water resistance is an important factor, but it depends on how long your commute is, where in the world you live and whether you're a fair-weather cyclist or not ;-). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It must be comfortable against you. Some bags have more padding than others between it and you. Similarly, if you sit relatively upright or will use it off the bike, a padded strap might be a good idea. If it has a &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; waterproof, plasticky body, you will sweat buckets against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to take a laptop or tablet, you may want a bag with a dedicated (possibly also padded) section. You may want a zipped up area for various bits and pieces. For bigger bags, you'll definitely want to remove some items from your jersey pockets and place them in the bag. Finally, may want separate sections and stitched pockets for phones, mp3 player, pens, food, wallet, etc. It depends what you take to work and what you leave there. I travel as light as possible - others don't have that choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8115" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T10:54:39.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17627" CreationDate="2013-09-12T12:02:26.240" Score="4" ViewCount="6851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put some extra air in my rear mountain bike tyre yesterday. It uses the SLIME inner tube. It wasn't flat nor had a puncture, I was just topping it up to make the tyre a bit harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cycled to work on it and all was fine. When I came out of work however, the rear tyre was completely flat. It was absolutely fine when I got to work though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that since opening the valve to pump in some air, it's been slowly leaking back out of this valve. It wasn't a problem until I did this. It's a schrader valve if of any use/relevance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do? I pump the tyre up and it just deflates again through the SLIME inner tube valve (which has spat out a bit of it's green gunk incidentally). Just seems like a complete waste of money at £16 per inner tube if it just leaks via the valve (regardless of whether it's going to seal any punctures or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8117" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:29:25.837" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T14:16:11.343" Title="Leaking Slime inner tube valve after opened for first time since install" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;valves&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8059" CreationDate="2013-09-12T12:06:36.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A remote lockout option is nice for changing terrain when you do not wish to stop to adjust the lockout suspension.  As a commuter, you may find yourself stopping normally for various traffic intersections.  It is at this point you could make an adjustment to lock or unlock the front fork before continuing the next section of your route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be possible to physically reach the lever on a non-remote lockout fork during riding; however, this isn't necessarily a great idea for a few reasons.  One is safety, but also many front forks without the remote lockout are not designed to be adjusted under load.  You could damage a non-remote lockout fork by attempting the adjust it while riding.  Many manufacturers place their manuals online, so you can research a particular fork to better understand its capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7981" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T12:06:36.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17609" CreationDate="2013-09-12T12:13:02.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Schrader valves have removable innards. There are even special tools for them, also a small pliers might do. Maybe yours has gotten loose and is now leaking. Check whether the pin in the center of the valve is &quot;hidden inside&quot; the valve itself. If not, that's a very likely culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T12:13:02.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17602" CreationDate="2013-09-12T13:21:43.627" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe Sheldon wrote this before there was brake specific compressionless housing available on the market. My understanding is that brake specific compressionless housing is reinforced with Kevlar, not plastic, and it has certainly been rigorously tested to work as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The folks I know that run compressionless housing on their mechanical disc brake setups seem very happy with it, so if you're not completely happy with your current setup it may be worth a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T13:21:43.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17602" CreationDate="2013-09-12T13:49:51.980" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my brake cables with some Jagwire of the compressionless variety. jm2 is correct in saying the steel housing is reinforced with kevlar to prevent the longitudinal wires from buckling. The performance is very good and my brakes are far more responsive than with the old, traditional spiral-wound housing that was there before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, installation is made a bit more tricky because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cable is not as flexy (it's a lot thicker than gear housing) so lengths must be cut appropriatly and secured well with the correct ferrules/end caps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is very difficult to cut. I tried first with a proper, full-size hack saw to get a smooth cut and it was immediately blunted. They must use very hard steel. I then just used some high-quality wire cutters which just about did the job and I smoothed up the cuts with a file. Make sure you have decent cutters if you're using compressionless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also debatable whether compressionless is needed for brakes. It's needed for gears as they are indexed so need precise cable draw for a given shifter movement. Brakes have no such need, if you need more caliper movement just squeeze the lever a bit more. It probably gives some finer modulation but I reckon most of the improvements I experienced were just due to new cable vs 8-year-old ropey cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T22:26:03.177" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T22:26:03.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17624" CreationDate="2013-09-12T13:54:07.743" Score="8" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any advantages of S shaped down tubes over the traditional ones on MTB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: what do you think of this design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applications/JamisBikes/MyJamis/consumer/bike.html?year=2013&amp;amp;model=Exile%20Comp&amp;amp;cat_grp=mtb29_4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jamis Exile Comp 2013&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kfOyt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jamis Exile Comp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5562" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T23:57:39.423" Title="S shaped down tube (MTB)" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-12T14:39:10.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to listen to the radio while bike commuting.  However, I really feel that I need BOTH of my ears on city streets.  So, I mount a small cheap (FM radio capable) cell phone on my helmet near my left ear and then play the radio through the phone's speaker phone. That way I can still hear my surroundings and the radio.  My current &quot;radio&quot; is a Nokia 1616 purchased from Target for $10.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While my suggestion may not meet the strictest definition of a &quot;head phone&quot; it certainly does the same job while allowing me to hear everything in my surroundings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of my setup (yes, it's geeky, but at least I haven't been hit by a bus I couldn't hear): &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWKJZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWKJZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Head-Phone Helmet Picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5044" LastEditorUserId="5044" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T14:58:45.800" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T14:58:45.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17577" CreationDate="2013-09-12T15:24:38.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll add a dissenting opinion. A single strap bag is fine, and the second strap is not required. I've used several, and simply tightening the strap has always been enough to stop it moving around, even at 35 or 40km/h. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, the weather resistance, size, and comfort concerns that the other answers mention are worth considering, but something important and not yet mentioned is to look very carefully at the quality of the stitching on the bag, especially the seems where the strap meets the bag. For instance, many laptop style shoulder bags are not well put together here, and will begin to fray or rip pretty readily, especially if you pack it too full or put too much weight in it. Look for something with quality construction, and pay more if you need to! Having your strap fail (or even just start to fail) is no fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T15:24:38.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-12T15:48:27.783" Score="9" ViewCount="3389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hybrid (Schwinn Sporterra) which I use for commuting except when it rains. The main problem of riding it during the rains is the dirt that gets spewn all over, esp over the drive-train. Cleaning it and re-oiling the whole thing is a painful hour long process. Due to this I tend to not take my bike out when there is a chance of rain. How do I get rid of this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have some plastic fenders, but they do not cover the wheels fully. If I get new metal fenders which cover most of the wheel will this problem be solved? Do I have to get any other accessories? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7445" LastEditorUserId="7445" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T17:06:10.443" LastActivityDate="2013-11-02T00:43:26.403" Title="What accessories do I have to add to my bike so that I may commute during rainy weather?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17617" CreationDate="2013-09-12T16:04:07.310" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For riding in the rain, I would definitely recommend putting fenders on your bike that cover as much of the wheel as possible. This will help prevent &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecommuters.com/2012/11/30/friday-musings-skunk-stripe/&quot;&gt;skunk stripes&lt;/a&gt;&quot; on the back of your clothes due to dirt thrown up by the rear wheel. Fenders also generally help keep water from flying all around during riding, which keeps other things from getting as wet to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also recommend putting a plastic cover on your seat, as (a) wet seats tend to stay wet for a long time, and (b) keeping your seat dry will help extend its usable lifetime. For this, you can simply tie a plastic grocery bag over the seat -- it's not very elegant looking, but it works well as long as there aren't any holes in the bag. Make sure the bottom of the seat is covered as well as the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the drive train, it's difficult to keep this part of the bike dry during rainy weather. You could look into getting a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=chain+guard&quot;&gt;chain guard&lt;/a&gt;, but these are typically designed to prevent dirt and grease from the chain rubbing onto your leg or pants, not to keep the chain dry in the rain. It might help keep rain off from above, but it won't help keep things dry from below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also prophylactically keep your drivetrain dry by using a wax-based chain lubricant before you go out in the rain. This will help repel water during the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7741" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T16:04:07.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17617" CreationDate="2013-09-12T16:10:36.087" Score="14" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adding &lt;strong&gt;mud-flaps&lt;/strong&gt; to both fenders will greatly reduce spraying water on to your bottom bracket, feet and bicyclists riding behind you. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mud-flaps can be made easily &amp;amp; cheaply by cutting a part of plastic bottles for milk /water/soda-pop and screwing them on to end of mud-guard/fenders (ensure there is enough clearance between screw and tire).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plastic fenders offering full coverage will avoid spraying water and dirt; besides the plastic one's usually are  lighter and cheaper than their metal counter parts. These are also corrosion resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Using wet weather chain lubricant will help to some extent, however this doesn't replace the need for cleaning your drive train and re-lubing it. This type of lubricant will help you to space out cleaning a little further. A clean drive train will last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastEditorUserId="7416" LastEditDate="2013-11-01T14:20:50.413" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T14:20:50.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15381" CreationDate="2013-09-12T16:17:16.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're bringing a camp stove with you, I highly recommend lentils and rice for dinners. They're non-perishable and very light when dry, take just 20min to cook, and they're easy to find (and cheap) in grocery stores or even convenience stores. You're sure to pass at least one tiny store every 2 days on your trip, so you don't actually need to carry that much on your bike at once. In addition, lentils and rice can be improved significantly by adding vegetables and salt, and I found that adding some high-quality canola oil made them taste significantly better, in addition to providing critical extra calories during a tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For breakfast, I usually had oatmeal of some sort. Like beans/lentils and rice, they are easy to find, non-perishable, lightweight, and cheap. They are similarly improved by adding things like dried fruit, trail mix, peanut butter, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For daytime snacks, I am something of a Clif bar addict, so I tended to carry a bunch of those on my bike. These, or similar energy bars, are also easy to find these days in grocery and convenience stores basically nationwide. I also had a lot of trail mix of various sorts -- almonds, peanuts, walnuts, sesame seeds (surprisingly high in calories), whatever you come across. Stay away from chocolate in your mixes, though, because it melts quickly (unfortunately) when you're out in the heat. (Amusingly, though, I found that keeping chocolate in my northern panniers -- I was riding west so these were the ones on the right side of my bike -- kept it significantly cooler than the southern side.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, depending on your budget, stop whenever you can to partake in the awesome diners that you're sure to come across ! I had a lot of fantastic home-made pie on my trip, which hands down beats granola bars and lentils and rice. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7741" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T16:17:16.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17617" CreationDate="2013-09-12T16:55:12.030" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget lights. Many people who only ride during the day/nice weather don't bother to put lights on your bike. But in heavy rain, it's sometimes darker (especially closer to sunrise/sunset), and visibility is reduced.  Having lights and also reflectors will help you to be seen and improve your safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind getting wet, and use a waterproof pannier to transport a change of clothes, you may not need any additional equipment. Just make sure to relube your chain frequently if it often gets wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T16:55:12.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2940" CreationDate="2013-09-12T20:16:10.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my tour across the US, I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.delorme.com/OA_HTML/DELibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section=10096&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;statewide gazetteer&lt;/a&gt; at a gas station whenever I entered a new state, and then threw away all the pages that I wasn't planning on going through. I kept the rest in a pannier, inside a large ziplock freezer bag to keep them dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I stopped for a snack (about every couple of hours), I'd pull out the page where I was and look ahead for the next couple hours -- usually this would only be a few turns to remember (or none, in Montana). At dinner I would pore over the map from that day and for the next day to regroup mentally and plan for what was coming up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It probably depends on your comfort level with your &quot;sense of direction&quot; and where you are touring, but in most places without a ton of roads it's surprisingly easy to find your way around -- you just take the road that heads west/north/whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7741" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T20:16:10.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17614" CreationDate="2013-09-12T20:31:31.543" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The S shape allows for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;stronger head tube and bottom bracket welds without the need for gussetting. You'll find this on more trail focused bikes (such as AM, FR and DH).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;wheel clearance for long travel forks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;wheel clearance for the front wheel (ie. 29er's)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Still allows for room for a water bottle within the front triangle &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T23:57:39.423" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T23:57:39.423" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17387" CreationDate="2013-09-12T22:32:36.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the same double butted spoke on my bike and the correct nipple size is 14 gauge. Here's a note from my bike store:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The 14/15 gauge measurement on the spoke actually refers to the fact&#xA;  that they are a butted spoke, 14g at the ends and a narrower 15g in&#xA;  the middle (to make them lighter but still strong)... Yes, 14G is the&#xA;  size for the spoke nipple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing to determine is the correct length of the nipple you need since they come in varied lengths. Note that it is easy to make a mistake on the length, unless you have samples to compare sizes. I had to return a purchase 14G/14mm since the right size is 14G/16mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8123" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T23:16:01.110" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T23:16:01.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17609" CreationDate="2013-09-13T02:53:46.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to remove your Schrader valve's stem (innards) with a stem removal tool and check the valve's rubber seat, located on the part that you remove. There may be debris lodged in the valve seat such as grit or sand or some dried slime that would cause it not to seat and seal properly. Also consider switching the valve stem core from another valve from say an old inner tube and see if that does the trick. Unless the valve was damaged or the old tube you take it from is real old, the valve stem core will usually last much longer than the actual tube. Many years ago when my bike had Schraders, I'd keep a couple of valve cores from old tubes in my patch kit in case I experienced a valve problem when out on a trek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cCNrl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cCNrl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Core remover and core&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8126" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2018-03-05T04:50:17.803" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T04:50:17.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17639" CreationDate="2013-09-13T14:31:43.743" Score="3" ViewCount="3904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am seeking the right combination of shock pressure vs. Brain threshold settings for new Stumpjumper Elite (with Specialized Brain inertia valve) with respect to durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any recommended settings for the trail/all-mountain kind of riding for the brain? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this chart suggesting 3-open setting for the brain: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/AC0419_2013_air_chart_11x17.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/AC0419_2013_air_chart_11x17.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure it is affected by personal preference. My concern is to find if there is any significant influence of the settings to the Brain durability/service interval by next extremes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low shock pressure + hard Brain threshold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;vs. high shock pressure + soft Brain threshold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any of these extremes has significant influence on Brain durability/life-time? Or is it just a matter of personal preference? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7851" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T15:34:15.367" Title="Recommended settings for Specialized Brain with respect to durability" Tags="&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17647" CreationDate="2013-09-13T20:07:12.280" Score="3" ViewCount="662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a threaded headset for an old road frame that takes 1 inch threaded steerer tube / headsets.  I see headsets for sale online that are labeled as &quot;1 inch threaded BMX headset&quot;.  Is there any compatibility issue with trying to install it on a road bike?  What about non-BMX-labeled headsets being installed on BMX frames?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure I can get a headset a little bit cheaper if I could use one that is labeled as &quot;BMX&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T05:07:09.547" Title="Are BMX threaded headsets and other threaded headsets interchangeable?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16568" CreationDate="2013-09-13T22:18:48.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you stated, It is not possible to have shifters both in the road style handlebars (brifters) as well as at the bar end of the aero bars. The only option for this is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/dura_ace.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Dura Ace Di2&lt;/a&gt; shifting system, which judging by your comments, is not within your budget.  I would recommend just putting some Aero bars on the bike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.profile-design.com/profile-design/products/aerobars/aluminum-aerobars/t3-plus.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Like these&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T22:18:48.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17644" CreationDate="2013-09-13T22:59:21.057" Score="35" ViewCount="106983" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is &quot;What is the difference between Cyclocross, Touring, and Road Bikes? Also what are their intended uses (their place in the cycle 'community'?)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15562/what-is-the-difference-between-race-road-and-cx-bikes&quot;&gt;What is the difference between race/road and cx bikes?&lt;/a&gt; and it has answered part of my question but it still leaves the rest unanswered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8038" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T18:12:41.160" Title="Difference between Cyclocross, Touring, and Road Bikes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17637" CreationDate="2013-09-14T06:17:24.040" Score="3" ViewCount="2754" Body="&lt;p&gt;Around four months ago my parents bought me a Trek FX 7.1 for my birthday while I was at work.  At first I was fairly excited and happy with it over my old Supercycle which served me well for the past ten years.  However, once I started riding it I came face to face with a few issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The breaking is weak and needs a stopping distance of around 7-8 feet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vibration is violent once you hit gravel road surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tires cannot handle small curbs at relatively high speeds without going flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tires lose traction on wet surfaces causing me to lose control and damage the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried having my brakes adjusted but the stopping distance is still rather long (5'5&quot; - 6'5&quot;) considering when you need to stop in an emergency situation.  Now since there is no front fork suspension it has quite a violent vibration especially when the tires are fully inflated within the optimum PSI pressure range.  In regards to the miniature curb, both my tires burst while I was going at a relatively fast speed before impacting that few inch high curb.  It's rather annoying to have to slow down just to ride over it safely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as of now, I am looking for some professional or just good fellow cyclist advice on what I can do to improve the brakes, tires, and vibration issues.  I'm sure replacing the front fork would be idiotic so I would not even go there, and I clearly have no space on my bike for any form of disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8133" LastEditorUserId="7981" LastEditDate="2013-09-14T18:21:59.560" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T19:22:30.613" Title="Alternative options for Trek FX 7.1 brakes" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;bike-setup&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17635" CreationDate="2013-09-14T14:22:37.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trek FX 7.1 is more of a hybrid/road bike than your supercycle. When you use it on roads your ride should be a lot faster and easier than on your old bike. However, your new bike will have the issues you describe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is less comfortable on bumpy roads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't just race it onto a curb or over similar steep ridges without a good chance of bursting a tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brakes are less heavy duty, and (on roads anyway) your speed will be higher, this will lead to a longer stopping distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't deal very well with gravel/loose sand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think your bike has &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;caliper brakes&lt;/a&gt; they are light, and usually enough for road bikes. If you need more stopping power you could see if you can fit v-brakes or another &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cantilever-type brake&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perhaps counterintuitively, if you want to prevent your tires from bursting or springing a leak when you hit a ridge at speed, your best bet is to keep them inflated at the optimal pressure or a bit higher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could fit your bikes with stiffer leak-proof tires. Those are mainly meant to reduce the risk of puncture leaks, but will help a bit with the impact-leaks you describe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to lower the impact of ridges on your tires when you hit them at speed. Stand up on your pedals when you are about to hit them, bend your knees so that the flexing of your knees absorbs some of the impact. The weight of your body represents most of the impact force that your tire has to absorb when you hit that ridge. If you bend your knees they function like the springs did on your supercycle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your new bike has road tires, they have less profile (to reduce rolling resistance) and hence less grip on wet roads or roads with some gravel or dust on them. You can get tires with a flat rolling surface in the middle, and deeper profile or even knobs to the sides. That way you have low rolling resistance when going straight but better grip when cornering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that your new bike is more a road bike than your old one. You will go faster overall because it is a lot lighter than your supercycle, it has narrower and larger tires which have lower rolling resistance, and less profile on the tires which also greatly reduces rolling resistance. It is not a drop-in replacement for your supercycle. It is not really meant to go over ridges at speed, and it is not meant to deal with gravel roads (though with good tires a road with some gravel on it should present no issue) let alone go off-road. If you still have your supercycle you should consider keeping that for when you want to go off-road and enjoy your new bike for when you want to go on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2013-09-14T14:22:37.173" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15770" CreationDate="2013-09-15T00:11:24.920" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: Position: drop bars can be set up to match almost any reasonable flat-bar body/head position and hence visibility.&#xA;Braking: if you can squeeze your front brake from the hoods hard enough to initiate rear wheel lift-off on dry flat pavement - you're good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer: Position: Higher body/head position will generally give you better visibility. An average drop bar bike (properly fitting) will give you considerably lower body/head position than average flat bar bike (properly fitting), but this is not because of the bars per se. Rather, the manufacturers know that drop bar bikes are perceived as more &quot;sporty&quot; and so a bike with relatively high drops (hence less aerodynamic position) will not sell as well. Still, road bikes with high-ish drop bars are available (look for touring or &quot;relaxed&quot; road bikes). If you want still higher body/head position, you can use stem risers and/or adjustable stems. I can't think of any reason for reaction time to be different between drops and regular bars if body position is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note, however, that higher body position means more drag and less speed; also, any position higher than touring will be &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; comfortable on longer/regular rides, and comfort affects safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Braking: Whether some particular braking setup is safe enough depends on how quickly you can stop the bike in an emergency. Because a bicycle/rider system's combined center of gravity is so high and close to the front wheel, on clean dry pavement the most braking you can get is when the rear wheel is about to lift off. Unlike with a car or even a regular motorcycle, clean dry pavement always provides enough traction to do that on a bicycle while still not skidding the front tire. BTW, that also means that rear brake is useless in an emergency on dry pavement - so don't use it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, whether you can initiate rear wheel lift-off from the hoods depends on several factors - your hands' strength, your fingers' length, what type of brakes you use and, perhaps most importantly, how well tuned your whole braking system is (levers, cables, calipers, pads, rims/discs). If you can initiate that lift-off with conventional rim brakes, you can choose any bike you want (or keep existing one). If you can't, you can always upgrade something. Longer fingers are probably out of the question, and developing strength takes time, but better brakes are readily available. As of now, the most powerful solution would probably be SRAM RED 22 hydraulic hoods/levers and matching RED 22 disc brakes; much cheaper but probably just as powerful solution is TRP HY/RD hybrid (cable/hydraulic) disc brakes; there are also less integrated hybrid systems. The cheapest (and good enough for most) would be just giving your existing brakes a tune up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources: Sheldon Brown, personal experience and research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8137" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T00:11:24.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17630" CreationDate="2013-09-15T04:52:10.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The threshold setup of your shock should have a negligible if not non-existent bearing on its longevity. Run it how you like it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you an idea of what you're concerned about breaking, watch &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ns76kFy14ZM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; that describes how Brain shocks work. About 2/3rds of the way through you will get to see the internals of a Brain shock's inertia valve. They are not as delicate as you may think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T15:34:15.367" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T15:34:15.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17648" CreationDate="2013-09-15T15:22:16.830" Score="7" ViewCount="962" Body="&lt;p&gt;XTR Shadow Plus derailleur has a switch between a hard and soft chain tension. The difference is hardly noticeable when shifting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there ever any good reason to use the soft setting when the hard setting keeps the chain quite more stable on bumps? What is it for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7851" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T09:56:49.397" Title="XTR Shadow Plus derailleur soft setting?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10879" CreationDate="2013-09-15T20:56:26.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Racers might call it &quot;slipstreaming&quot;, but normal road users call it &quot;tailgating&quot;. Other than in controlled conditions (like a race, or a cycling club ride), you shouldn't attempt it. It's dangerous, and no less rude than if you do it in a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I catch you doing this behind me, I'll slow down until you back off, just like with any other tailgating vehicle. And if you &quot;invite&quot; me to tailgate you by overtaking and cutting me up, I'll probably respond with a rude gesture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T20:56:26.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17641" CreationDate="2013-09-15T23:34:41.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The switch disengages the clutch mechanism and releases the spring tension to allow for easy wheel changes. Technically this is the sole purpose of the lever and Shimano designed it simply as engage/ disengage switch and that the clutch cover had to be removed to adjust tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality riders have discovered the lever works for simple tension tuning. You can set the switch any where between soft and hard, it isn't an on and off, so you can make small adjustments to the tightness for smooth changes using the lever. If you want to increase the tension past the tightest point on the lever you need to adjust the clutch inside the clutch housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T03:47:05.717" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T03:47:05.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17634" CreationDate="2013-09-16T02:01:33.287" Score="42" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Road&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bikes are designed for performance on (mostly) well paved roads. They are the lightest weight of the 3 categories, have the shortest wheelbase, lowest bottom bracket, and the steepest headtube angles. These geometry features allow the bike to react to rider inputs quickly and to have a low center of gravity which is beneficial when turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels are almost invariably 700c - sometimes smaller wheels are used on very small frames. Tire sizes will typically vary from 20-25mm width but the most common width is 23mm, thus the 700x23 that you'll often see. Road frames can be made out of just about any material but the most common ones that you'll see are aluminum for budget oriented bikes and carbon fiber for high end bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gearing will be the highest and narrowest on this type of bike. Road bikes are designed to carry the rider and his/her water bottles and not much else, although some are drilled for fitting racks - usually on the less expensive side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bikes still make great commuters if you want a light weight, fast reacting machine to get from point A to point B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Touring&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Touring bikes are designed for long, multi-day excursions on the road. They are usually the heaviest bikes of the bunch as they are built for durability and to carry a lot of stuff beyond just the rider. They will maintain a relatively low bottom bracket but the wheelbase will be longer and the head tube angle slacker when compared to a road bike. This adds to their stability, especially when fully loaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels are often 700c but many are actually designed for 26&quot; - some will accept either, though this will make for a higher BB with the larger wheel. Stock tire sizes will run wider - usually 28mm or above. This makes of a more comfortable ride since the air pressure can be dropped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may see touring bikes made from other materials, but the most common is steel due to its forgiving nature and durability. Drillings for back and front racks are standard, and drillings for extra water bottles are common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gearing may be a little lower, but will certainly be wider on a touring bike. Sometimes mountain bike components are used for rear gearing to give the rider extra low gearing. This is very welcome when ascending with a fully loaded touring bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of bike makes an excellent commuter as it is stable and when fitter with racks/panniers gives you lots of places to put your stuff besides on your back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cyclocross&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes are designed to travel both on and off road. Cyclocross is actually a race discipline that evolved as something for road racers to do in the off season, but the bikes have become very popular outside of racing due to their versatility. Cross bikes will typically be heavier than a comparable road bike but lighter than a comparable touring bike. The wheelbase will be in between that of a road bike and a touring bike while the bottom bracket height and headtube angle could be on either side of that of a touring bike depending on the manufacturer's philosophy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels will be 700c and tires will typically range somewhere in the 30-40mm width range with small knobs to grip loose surfaces as opposed to the slicks you'll see on dedicated road tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame materials vary widely just as with the other bike types, but for high end cyclocross frames carbon fiber is becoming a more prevalent material. Aluminum and steel are also common, especially amongst mid level bikes and below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditional cyclocross gearing is a little odd as they typically come with a very close ratio double crankset but this may be compensated for by a wider cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Race dedicated cyclocross bikes may have drillings for water bottle cages in the front triangle though you'll often see them with no bottles mounted so they don't get in the way of shouldering the bike over obstacles. On the other hand, many cross bikes are drilled for racks since they can double as a touring bike due to the similar geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross bikes make wonderful commuters due to their versatility and durability. You can often run racks or not, and swap the knobby tires with slicks should you so choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T04:08:55.830" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T04:08:55.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17562" CreationDate="2013-09-16T03:37:51.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some frames are more prone to this than others. It seems to happen the worst with certain hardtail frames. It's possible that you swapped from organic to metallic pads which may have caused the issue to surface. Assuming this is the issue, sometimes the problem will go away as the pads bed in, other times not. If you can determine that you moved from organic to metallic pads and you are through the bed in period, you may want to swap back to organic pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T03:37:51.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17641" CreationDate="2013-09-16T03:50:22.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The disengaged setting is basically for wheel removal and installation, and not much else. As DWGKNZ pointed out, the clutch lever is adjustable between the off and on settings should you feel the need to mess with it. The only reason you really would have to not set it all the way to on is if you felt that shifting felt too &quot;heavy&quot; at the lever. On the other hand, if over time the clutch seems to become too loose you can adjust it further with a little more effort. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Inside-Shimanos-Shadow-Plus-Mech-and-How-To-Adjust-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pinkbike has an excellent writeup&lt;/a&gt; on how to do this along with lots of pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T03:50:22.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17632" CreationDate="2013-09-16T05:07:09.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they're not interchangeable. BMX 1&quot; threaded headsets have an outer cup diameter of 32.7mm - they wouldn't fit in a standard road frame. Standard (ISO) threaded headsets have an outer cup diameter of 30.2mm - they'd fit loosely in a BMX frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Headset Dimension Cribsheet&lt;/a&gt; is a useful reference for headset interchangeability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T05:07:09.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17641" CreationDate="2013-09-16T09:56:49.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there ever any good reason to use the soft setting when the hard setting keeps the chain quite more stable on bumps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No reason to keep it off while riding. In fact it is suggested to always have it on while riding because it reduces noise, chain slap and the possibility of the chain coming off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is it for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You turn it off when you need to remove the wheel, cut the chain or connect it back with a link. That's because it makes the derraileur move freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T09:56:49.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-16T18:21:36.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't like wearing headphones while cycling because it takes away from an asset I rely on heavily: my hearing. But if you choose to rock and ride, here's some useful information: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebiz.com/news/read/cyclists-with-ipods-hear-the-same-as-motorists-listening-to-nothing/013329&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikebiz.com/news/read/cyclists-with-ipods-hear-the-same-as-motorists-listening-to-nothing/013329&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2157" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T18:21:36.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17575" CreationDate="2013-09-16T21:02:12.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the derailleur height to the outer chain ring. Basically, this should be as close as possible without hitting the chainring.  Make sure it's well secured to the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you adjust the travel, put the bike into the large chainring, small cog and make sure there's no more than about a 1mm of distance between the outer edge of the chain and outside plate of the derailleur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you don't have a bent a tooth on your chain ring. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I've had a chain go over the top of the outer chain ring is when the limit isn't properly set or the outer cage isn't more or less parallel to the chain ring. Remember, to get the derailleur over and outside of the chainring, there has to be enough clearance for the chain to make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T21:02:12.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17529" CreationDate="2013-09-16T21:45:31.887" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;V-brakes can be hateful and make a lot of sound if they're improperly adjusted- sometimes they're noisy even when they're properly adjusted, especially on braking surfaces that are not machined. You can usually alleviate this with one or more of the following methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, make sure your pads are properly adjusted. This is better demonstrated than described, so &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKtI11YXyJc&quot;&gt;check out this youtube video&lt;/a&gt; to save yourself a lot of reading. If the link goes down, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=v-brake%20adjustment&quot;&gt;just google v-brake adjustment&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the braking surface of the rim is clean. Use rubbing alcohol and a green scrub pad to scrub off any crud, and then wipe the braking surface off with a clean towel with a dab of alcohol on it. Using anything besides rubbing alcohol may leave a residue and make the problem worse.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Toe in the brakes. I found this image which not only illustrates what &quot;toeing in&quot; your brakes is, but shows a nifty little trick to set the gap appropriately: &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYsfr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to toe them in more that what this picture is showing if they continue to squeal on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T21:45:31.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-17T00:34:35.023" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally don't think wearing earbuds is more dangerous than not wearing them.  I am more attuned to my surroundings when listening to music.  If a car is going to hit you from behind hearing it first will make zero difference in your safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said I prefer the in-the-ear earbuds.  I like the most noise isolation I can get.  I don't want to hear &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; road voice...just the music.  I have tried many different types and have settled on an older pair of Westone earbuds (retail about $200).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite pair were a pair of Ultimate ears but they were too fragile for cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a really excellent sounding but dirt cheap set of earbuds check out these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007VEQ2UU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;monoprice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8148" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T00:34:35.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17575" CreationDate="2013-09-17T06:27:55.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Rich mentioned by first action would be to check the derailleur height...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I kept trying to adjust it myself, but it would either not shift up, or it would throw the chain outside. Or it would sometimes shift properly, but only if the rear was around gear 6 (of 10), and not otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, it sounds like the derailleur sits too heigh, or the adjustment of the L-screw has gone wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try adjusting it yourself once you checked the height of the derailleur... Not all &quot;pro's&quot; are equally good at gear adjustments:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8145" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T06:27:55.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16684" CreationDate="2013-09-17T07:34:53.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also a very good pro tip is to do a little flick to in the &quot;wrong&quot; direction right before you turn in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;say, you are approching a right turn, you've placed yourself on the left side of the road. Just before you start leaning to the right, yor make a small flick/turn to the left without leaning your body that way. This will tilt the bike to the right, making it alot easier to make the lean into the apex of the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a track this would probably be the best and easiest way to ret a tighter turning radius, since the &quot;leaning into the corner&quot;-part is so important&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8145" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T07:34:53.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2013-09-17T08:51:38.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, don't panic. Try to act normally and stay calm. Give an order to the dog in a firm voice such as &quot;go home&quot; or give the dog something like a water bottle to chew and play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8150" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-09-17T13:40:59.203" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T13:40:59.203" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2013-09-17T11:32:46.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the worst case, there's the advice from Richard Ballantine's &quot;Richard's Bicycle Book&quot;. Note that Richard was a dog-lover himself, and this was a last resort if an attacking dog is seriously endangering you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;If the dog attacks: one defense is aerosol pepper sprays made for this purpose. They have a range of about ten feet and are light enough to clip to your handlebars. A water pistol loaded with a water-amonia solution will also work but is a good deal less convenient. If you have neither of these and can't or won't climb a tree get a stick or a large rock. No? The bicycle pump. Try to ram it down his throat. In any event, don't cower or cover up, because the dog will only chew you to ribbons. Attack. Any small dog can simply be hoisted up by the legs and his brains dashed out. With a big dog you are fighting for your life. If you are weaponless try to tangle him up in your bike and then strangle him. Kicks to the genitals and which break ribs are effective. If you have got a pump or a stick hold it at both ends and offer it up to the dog horizontally. Often the dog will bit the stick/pump and hang on. Immediately lift the dog up and deliver a very solid kick to the genitals. Follow up with breaking the dogs ribs or crushing its head with a rock. If worst comes to worst ram your entire arm down its throat. He will choke and die. Better your arm than your throat.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T11:32:46.653" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17167" CreationDate="2013-09-17T11:51:34.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any drop bar lever that &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; designed for V-brakes (which is almost all of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes levers come in two different mechanical advantages: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_brake#Brake_levers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_brake#Brake_levers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sturmey Archer straight bar brake levers are short pull, so you want a short (standard) pull drop bar lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T11:51:34.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17463" CreationDate="2013-09-17T12:35:11.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using Headphones like this: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UMWpG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjM2WDY0MA==/$(KGrHqF,!h8F!DNm5OMyBQNIOG3VPw~~60_35.JPG?set_id=8800005007&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They even reduce wind noise, and you can hear the music and everything around you, because they are not blocking outside noise. The problem is that in city traffic you will not hear the music, because the cars are so loud ;D &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important is that they have foam, cause that reduces the wind noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastEditorUserId="1494" LastEditDate="2013-09-17T12:46:12.373" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T12:46:12.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17167" CreationDate="2013-09-17T14:07:21.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will probably want to try to use these with V-Brake compatible drop bar levers (long pull) as opposed to standard drop bar levers used with caliper or canti brakes (short pull).  One product that comes to mind is a Tektro RL520.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's advisable to use with an integrated brake/shifter setup (Shimano STI / SRAM Doubletap Shifters / Campagnolo Ergo Shifters).  You may want to consider using bar end or downtube shifters, if you're not using an Internally Geared Hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T14:07:21.380" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-17T14:46:31.673" Score="5" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching all over the web for statistics from bike races, starting with the Tour de France because it is the largest. Stats I have been able to find include each stage's winner with their time. I'm just wondering if anyone knows a good resource for pro cycling stats like time per km or per segment within the stage. I'm pretty curious about the riders performance at certain parts of the stages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8155" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T03:37:34.473" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T03:37:34.473" Title="Source for statistics from pro cycle races" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17661" CreationDate="2013-09-17T19:42:21.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you're looking for, a site like &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.trainingpeaks.com/races.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trainingpeaks.com&lt;/a&gt; might meet your needs. You can often find power meter data files for riders collected during both the Grand Tours (the Tour de France, the Giro d'Italia, and the Vuelta a Espana) as well as many one-day classics (like the Ronde van Vlaanderen (the Tour of Flanders) or Paris-Roubaix). From these data you can extract speed, power, cadence, gear ratios, pedal force, heart rate, and slope over different segments of a race. In certain circumstances you can estimate aerodynamic drag and other parameters of performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T19:42:21.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13505" CreationDate="2013-09-18T02:04:24.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed TRP CX9s on my Surly Cross-Check with SRAM Red controls and the original Salsa Bell Lap bars. Simply put, the stopping power is there and it will take some skill to deal with low modulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you are racing cross, I would recommend against these for the front... that is, unless you don't brake ;). On the rear, I have felt comfortable with the results so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are good at cutting through the muck that might build up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8167" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T02:04:24.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-18T04:37:47.943" Score="8" ViewCount="23925" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my bike, which I just built out of spare parts, the left pedal seems to constantly be coming loose. It seems to come out about 5m every time I ride ~10km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an old cotter pin crank, and the pedal &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a left pedal (there's an L stamped into the end of the screw that goes into the crank). The pedal has a crack in one side of the axle compartment, but I don't think that would affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that these pedals had left-hand threads so that the action of pedalling would work to tighten the screw? If so, why would this be happening, and is there anything I can do about it short of replacing the crank and pedal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4064" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T00:12:03.597" Title="Left pedal coming loose" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17666" CreationDate="2013-09-18T05:02:42.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I'd do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thoroughly clean the pedal threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thoroughly clean the crank threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let both dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply 2 drops of thread locker on the pedal threads (e.g loctite blue)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fasten pedal on the crank well (e.g 40 Nm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it comes loose after that I'd temporarily try another left pedal just to find out whether the pedal or the crank arm is problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before step #5 you need to inspect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try to see whether the threads of pedal or crank look worn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screw pedal in crank by hand (or tool without applying a lot of pressure) until the end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;was the threading smooth until the end?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does the pedal have any serious play within the crank arm? (which can only be eliminated if you screw the pedal very hardly in?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if yes, then the threads may be worn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes people screw pedals in crank arms with no care or patience and the pedal may not be positioned correctly to be screwed all the way in because its threads overlap badly with those of the crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-09-18T13:08:04.010" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T13:08:04.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17671" CreationDate="2013-09-18T09:13:13.850" Score="5" ViewCount="2402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a used trekking bike (Focus) to commute to work in Berlin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a great bike, and now that the weather is a little wetter I'm finding that the fenders it came with aren't quite covering the wheels like I would like. About every two weeks they come out of alignment and I have to adjust the screws/bend the stays to get it to cover the wheel again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips for getting them to stay put? I've adjusted them three times now and it's getting old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I'm not sure the exact brand/model but the rear has 1/2 diameter coverage and the front has about 1/3 diameter coverage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Material: black plastic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attachment system: like these:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ighm6.png&quot; alt=&quot;Giant Brand Fenders&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or these Planet Bike ones:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHxJy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8152" LastEditorUserId="8152" LastEditDate="2013-09-18T09:32:05.377" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T10:44:20.667" Title="Any tips for aligning fenders?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-18T09:38:11.307" Score="5" ViewCount="802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have carbon cranks (SRAM S-2200) on a new bike. The side is quite protected but the bottom part, where the pedals are fitted, is not. Hitting rocks on the bumpy road is sometimes inevitable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How vulnerable it is? What kind of damage should be considered as critical? What about single scratches when getting cummulated? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I care to guard it somehow? How? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7851" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T18:05:11.847" Title="Carbon cranks care?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17669" CreationDate="2013-09-18T10:44:20.667" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the first step would be to work out what is causing them to fall out of alignment. Possibilities include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vibration when riding causing fitting screws to loosen or parts to rotate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leaning your bike against something when parked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Someone leaning their bike against yours or tampering with them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case 1, you can remove the screws and refit them with some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/loctite-threadlocker-blue-242.htm&quot;&gt;threadlocker&lt;/a&gt; (a weak glue that keeps machine screws/nuts in place, usually blue in bike applications).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cases 2 and 3, the stays may be getting bent or fastenings rotated, in which case all you can do it be careful how you park the bike and where you leave it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T10:44:20.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2013-09-18T10:47:40.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the question has already answered, but I would like to look at something else - how to keep the body and arms warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, putting aside arm warmers, the best way to keep warm is not to bother with the expensive cycling jackets, good though they are. These will never totally keep out the cold particularly if your ride a road bike and go somewhat faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, get a cheap cycling rain mac and wear it UNDERNEATH your main cycling jacket. This means it will hug the body and keep the warmth in. However, if you are REALLY fast and the sun comes out, it won't let your body breath. But try it in really cold weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8170" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T10:47:40.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17670" CreationDate="2013-09-18T10:48:19.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you'll never land from a jump with your pedal down on a rock, then there is not problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand a little protection doesn't hurt. Maybe you can get those &lt;a href=&quot;http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mL35CFOQIPyiDfbgXoXP82Q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;end plugs&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankskins.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CrankSkins&lt;/a&gt;. My race face sixc cranks had similar &lt;a href=&quot;http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7214/7396556044_8fcbb1b20f_b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ends on&lt;/a&gt;. After riding hard for 1.5 years there aren't any serious dents and dints on them, but again, more protection does not hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more sensitive area though is that one bellow your feet (when riding a trail with your feet level). These are not protected by default (in my sixc at least) so I've taped a slice of inner tube using a strong double sided 3M tape at the correct places (keeping in mind that I always ride right foot forward).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scratches are not a problem I think. What can be problematic is hitting rocks with the cranks. I don't have experience cracking one though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-09-18T18:05:11.847" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T18:05:11.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17575" CreationDate="2013-09-18T12:16:26.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I took it to a local bike shop, and they fixed it, seemingly.  I will see how it goes in a few months, but for now it works fairly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In trying to fix it myself I had moved the derailleur down a bit, so it was exactly 1mm above the big ring.  The shop guy moved it back up, and also moved the tail out slightly I think.  He also loosened the cable--I didn't think this would make much difference, but according to him the cable was previously too tight and this encouraged the overshooting.  And of course he adjusted the high limit screw (that's what he started with too, but that alone was insufficient).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, notes for next time: moving the cage lower didn't help, loosening cable tension slightly may have, and I think making the tail point slightly outward (away from bike centerline) seems viable.  Oh, and I think you need a shaman to get these SRAM FDs working perfectly--next time consider a Shimano Ultegra mech instead, because in two decades with four Shimano bikes I've never seen anything so hard to adjust properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T12:16:26.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-18T13:33:37.677" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/170/at-what-time-of-year-can-i-buy-a-bicycle-for-the-best-price&quot;&gt;At what time of year can I buy a bicycle for the best price?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some more information for my specific case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I live in Bulgaria, and as the bike needs to be tested, purchasing from abroad is not an option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is early autumn now, and the prices have already dropped, that is 20% off Trek bikes, and other bikes have fallen e.g. 5000BGN-&gt;3500BGN; 12000BGN-&gt;8000BGN&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Budget between 2000-4000BGN (I would like to stay away from the steep region in the price/quality chart, but still have the money for a good bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scott, Trek, Specialized, Giant, RAM, Shockblaze are the most prominent brands here i.e. most bikes in the shops are from those brands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Target riding stile is climb+trail, climb+ski track downhill (summertime), maybe ramps later&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The showroom bikes that are at reduced cost seem not ridden at all, probably due to the high cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the moment that I make the decision, it will be probably around a couple of weeks until I try most bike shops locally and choose a model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I will not be riding this winter, however storage in an apartment is not an issue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bike will be used only for MTB, I have a separate commuter bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am worried that at early spring, when the new models arrive, the &lt;strong&gt;old promotions might be dropped&lt;/strong&gt;. Those promotions are quite substantial. &lt;strong&gt;At what point (now or in spring) would I be best off, buying a bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick currency converter: 4 392BGN == Trek Slash 7&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5sMmY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T19:23:07.550" Title="When to buy an enduro bike: autumn or spring?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17670" CreationDate="2013-09-18T14:52:50.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber is a tougher material than you may think. For a carbon crankarm it's going to be thick throughout the arm and likely solid at the end as well as being reinforced by the aluminum pedal spindle insert. It will show scratches, but so will an aluminum crankset. It's nothing to worry about. If the manufacturer was concerned they wouldn't manufacture them for mountain biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another fact you may not know is that many carbon mtb cranks aren't all carbon. Many are carbon wrapped aluminum. This is typically done for aesthetic purposes, not structural. A perfect example is the XX crankset. If you could view a cutaway of this crank you'd see that the core is aluminum with a thin veneer of carbon over top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T14:52:50.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17666" CreationDate="2013-09-18T14:57:49.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once a pedal comes loose enough to fall out of a crankarm the damage is typically done. The act of the pedal slowly coming loose wallows out the threads of the crankarm, especially the outermost threads. This makes it more susceptible to happening again. If you put it back on tight and it fell out again, it's almost certain that the crank is shot and you'll need to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T14:57:49.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17681" CreationDate="2013-09-18T14:59:31.987" Score="9" ViewCount="4647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bent the (steel) derailleur hanger on my 9spd cassetted (steel) Bianchi Volpe about 1.5 yrs ago, and I just did it again, but worse. This time the derailleur got sucked into the wheel and really did a doozy with the actual hole stretched and deformed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4SQfK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a lost hope or is it fine to ride, so long as I can straighten it / re-tap the whole and get it shifting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose my only options are to add a new hanger if that is even possible or make it a single-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;To those who may experience the same thing, I was able to successfully bend this back into place and get everything shifting well, despite the hole now being deformed (the derailleur still threaded properly after bending without re-tapping the hole).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5736" LastEditorUserId="5736" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T18:52:07.433" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T22:55:41.790" Title="Is my derailleur hanger too bent?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17678" CreationDate="2013-09-18T15:17:40.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the actual hole stretched and deformed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is bad, if you can't thread the derailleur back in, it's done. You could try bending it back and possible re-tapping it and see if the derailleur will thread back in. After all, if that doesn't work you haven't lost anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I suppose my only options are to add a new hanger if that is even possible or make it a single-speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are options. Some bike shops will still do frame repairs like this, but it will cost you. Replacing a rear dropout/hanger isn't too tough but requires a set of skills that is starting to become less and less common. The single speed option is, of course, still a viable option though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Incorporating another answer: if it's a replaceable hanger, this is a really easy, minor fix. Just replace the hanger and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-09-18T19:16:55.417" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T19:16:55.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17678" CreationDate="2013-09-18T17:23:16.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Derailleur hangers are usually made from soft aluminum that will not withstand bending/straightening without cracking. That is so to protect the dropout during this type of mishaps. In my experience, a hanger can be straightened a second time and it will look safe, but once riding, vibration will make any existing crack expand inadvertedly, until the derailleur just falls off along with a chunk of hanger. If it happens while pedalling softly you will feel it and hopefully stop the bike before any further damage occurs, in other situations the derailleur can get caught in the spokes an anything can happen from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion the best option is to get a replacement hanger for your frame, or to get one fabricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to get the replacement from the original frame manufacturer, or from derailleurhanger.com, or from &lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelsmfg.com/products/derailleur-hangers/all-derailleur-hangers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wheelsmfg.com/products/derailleur-hangers/all-derailleur-hangers.html&lt;/a&gt;.  There may be some other options to buy hangers, maybe secondhand...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailleur hangers are not too hard to elaborate, most of them are rather flat with perpendicular bolt holes, so they can be made with hacksaw, and a press drill, then a tap and some sandpaper. However, if you are not confident that you can cut the piece, or don't have a source for the aluminum, maybe a local industrial shop may be able to reproduce it. They have all kinds of precision machinery and measurement tools, just bring them the bad hanger, straightened if possible and explain what is it and what you need. In case my English is not good enough and I got the terminology wrong, I'm referring to the kind of shop where they rectify car engine blocks an other engine parts. If they won't accept the job, maybe they can at least provide you a piece of aluminum from an engine block that is damaged beyond repair. I've got replacement parts made like this a couple of times, including bike suspension linkages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rushed my answer and did not notice the OP's bike is a CrMo frame with a fixed hanger, so I answered based on a replaceable hanger frame. This first part of the answer is valid for an aluminum replaceable hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, CrMo can be bent a few more times than aluminium, so it should be safe for a second straightening. I've seen the process of  &quot;unbending&quot; aluminium hangers, and it is done  by fixing the  (removable) hangers to a vise and then gently hammering it with a small mallet, attempting to move the bent part only a little at a time. It was explained to me that is is done this way to avoid creating bigger stress in the piece. I guess this is valid for your case too, except maybe that it is more difficult to fix the whole  frame to a vise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very important  that the bolt hole gets properly aligned, that is, a bolt screwed in the hanger should be perfectly parallel to  the wheel/cassette axle, so the derailleur can be properly adjusted. When  there is misalignment, some shifts never get to happen smoothly or to stay in mesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:50:58.473" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:50:58.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17678" CreationDate="2013-09-18T20:35:52.000" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several suppliers of universal derailleur hangers. The intended use is to mount a modern derailleur to vintage bikes. At one time the derailleur hanger was part of the derailleur and mounted under the axle nut. Cambria Bike.com Harris Cyclery both have several models that start at $1.00. You could also try to find one of the older derailleurs like a Shimano Tourney mega range that have the hanger built onto the derailleur they can be had for under $25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T20:35:52.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-19T08:06:12.633" Score="4" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a MTB, but am unsure how to measure if the frame would fit me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't had a full-suspension bike. Furthermore, I am pretty sure MTBs perform entirely differently in the city and when going down a rocky track. My previous bike was small, short and awkward on pavement, but incredibly stable on the descents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When test-riding, I very much doubt that any shop will let me ride for a whole day. And from doing a couple of circles around the shop, rushing a couple of curbs, feathering or squeezing the brakes and doing a jump or two there is hardly any feel as to what riding will be like, when I get used to the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind of like with new shoes - at the start, every model is &quot;awkward&quot;, as one has not gotten used to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will ask the guys at the shop to help me with fitting, of course, but concerning the test ride - how do I do it correctly? &lt;strong&gt;What information is most essential to gather during the very short ride and how do I do that?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T08:47:06.867" Title="How to test-ride a full-suspension bike?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17683" CreationDate="2013-09-19T08:56:23.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike shops have a special test-bikes to be lent for a whole day or even a weekend.&lt;/strong&gt; I tested Specialized, Scott and RB for the whole weekend this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will pay them a refundable deposit (20-80% of price of the bike - depends on the shop). Some of them will charge you a little for cleaning/service or whatever. This may vary across the countries; I have experiences only with mine, but Specialized and Scott are international brands, so I expect similar offers around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is an answer for the topic, not your last question, but I think this is the right way to choose a bike.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also test-centres in some Single-tracks where you can borrow a bike for couple of rides. But they have a limited offer of models there. &#xA;Or some shops organize test-events near nice places to ride with many bikes to try if you book in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the best way to choose a bike. I was in the same situation as you. On the first test I borrowed two bikes from one Shop (RB): similar hard-tail and full-suspension and rode it with my friend exchanging couple of times to discover if is it even worth to invest to full suspension. It was quite convincing. Then I tested couple of other models of brands above for weekends. It's a fun to have a different new bike on every weekend. From these tests I came with very certain conclusion what I like the most. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7851" LastEditorUserId="7851" LastEditDate="2013-09-21T08:47:06.867" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T08:47:06.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-19T16:12:52.390" Score="3" ViewCount="9603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Trek 7.2 hybrid bike on Ebay and got the surprise (didn't read the listing closely!) that the front and back tires and rims are different widths. I am wondering if I should give it a try or spend some money on making the front wheel be the same width of the back. Why would someone have different wheels? Here's the configuration I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rims: (Front) Alexrims DA22, (Rear) Matrix 750,&#xA;Tires: (Front) Vittoria Zaffiro 700 X 25C, (Rear) Bontrager Select Invert 700 X 35.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8178" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-09-19T20:34:31.967" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T18:53:37.453" Title="Different tire and rim widths front and back - Why? Should I replace one?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17685" CreationDate="2013-09-19T16:29:30.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheels don't need to match and neither do tires, unless you're really picky about that sort of thing. Sometimes the wheel is damaged (out of true, bent, cracked, etc) and needs to be replaced. Other times it's changed to meet a specific need such as wanting a rim that supports a wider tire or a stronger rim if you're riding over tougher terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I ride (mountain bike) with a wider rear tire to run a larger tire for more grip. Fortunately, I bought a wheelset so mine match, but I could just as easily have run my previous front wheel and had a mismatching set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also get really granular and look at what spokes, nipples, hubs, and rim strips are the wheels, but having differences in these between front in back won't make the bike un-ridable, it will simply change the way each wheel works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T16:29:30.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17685" CreationDate="2013-09-19T16:31:28.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is ok to have different width of tires on front and rear wheels, I&#xA;have a thinner tire on rear wheel as the clearance is low and I&#xA;wanted to fit a full fender.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why would someone have different wheels? -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite uncommon for new bikes to have different width of tires&#xA;but used bikes can(as your's is). Perhaps, if the wheel was&#xA;damaged/stolen the previous owner may have replaced with what is&#xA;available/cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to change the tire size, ensure that the rim can securely&#xA;hold whatever width of tire you are about to install and has enough&#xA;clearance for fenders/frame. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you bring your bike into local bike shop, they should be able to&#xA;tell you if a certain width will fit your wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Just a tip for comfort - 35mm tires will ride a lot smoother as the&#xA;pressure on 35mm will be approximately half of what 25mm tires&#xA;requires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T16:31:28.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17694" CreationDate="2013-09-19T17:06:12.683" Score="1" ViewCount="1415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was happily using my &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.cannondale.com/media/Manuals/09_Cannondale_Catalog.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Canonndale F5 Hardtail&lt;/a&gt; to commute to work and other places (like shopping, going to a swimming pool and the like) until recently I had a very unfortunate accident with a car. To make a story short, I managed to slightly bent the fork and the frame, where the derailleur is mounted. I would not notice the bent except that I was not able to adjust the gears, if this did not go through the insurance (which demanded a full inspection of the bike). See the pictures below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official examiner of the bike dramatically concluded that the bike is unusable. This increased the amount of money I could from the insurance, but the real question is how bad it is? Should I really dump the frame and look for another frame? Or I could try to bent the frame back? (I'll have to replace the fork for sure anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should one look for a budget frame (are there any types that one should try to avoid?) Being a naive browser I type 'carbon frame' in ebay and being left with hundreds of results. Can someone comment on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.de/itm/MUSING-X-Lite-Offroad-Mountainbike-Rahmen-53-cm-in-schwarz-nur-1350-Gramm/400548451203?rt=nc&amp;amp;_trksid=p2047675.m1851&amp;amp;_trkparms=aid=222002&amp;amp;algo=SIC.FIT&amp;amp;ao=1&amp;amp;asc=134&amp;amp;meid=1358141668208250890&amp;amp;pid=100005&amp;amp;prg=1073&amp;amp;rk=1&amp;amp;rkt=4&amp;amp;sd=151122779892&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MUSING X Lite Offroad Mountainbike Frame weighting 1350-grams?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately I am looking for an inexpensive frame/bike. Key optimization criteria here is the safety feel that one gets during lengthy working, shopping, and swimming hours (i.e., when the bike is being locked outside, passed by some questionnable crowed..). I commute some 10-20km every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nShS6.png&quot; alt=&quot;bent frame&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LDubQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bent fork&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGHdj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;scratch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6541" LastEditorUserId="6541" LastEditDate="2013-09-19T22:55:56.037" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T22:55:56.037" Title="May I ignore the frame damage (or should I get a budget carbon frame)" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17683" CreationDate="2013-09-19T19:00:14.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What to look for on a shop test ride:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fit&lt;/strong&gt;: Like you said, it's new and might feel awkward, but usually you can narrow out some that are just not as good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Components&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Brakes&lt;/em&gt;: Test out front and rear braking power, bite, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Drivetrain&lt;/em&gt;: How does the shifting feel, is it responsive? Do the cranks flex? Is anything loose (usually can be fixed on the spot)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cockpit&lt;/em&gt;: lean back over the rear wheel and see if you can do it comfortably, check to see if the bar width works for you, stem height, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Suspension&lt;/em&gt;: bounce up and down a bit and see how the shock and fork moves. Now go run over some bumps or try to bunny hop and see what if feels like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Maintenance&lt;/em&gt;: Look over the entire bike and notice whether the wheels have thru-axles or quick releases, if brake mounts are built in, removable dropouts/derailleur hanger, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look&lt;/strong&gt;: Do you like what the bike looks like?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ride&lt;/strong&gt;: Ride fast, ride slow, turn wide and turn tight. Then lean the bike while riding, lean forward, lean back, lean to the sides. Basically see how the bike moves with you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the majority of these things you can adjust or change. So what you'll really want to look for is frame size and geometry, the &quot;feel&quot; of the bike, which the shop should be able to help you with. They can also help get the suspension set for your weight and riding style at least to start with, that's another adjustment you can make. If you manage to get a really good shop or if they're not busy, you might be able to persuade them switch bars, stem, seat and other bits to see if you can make the bike feel better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One note, on the maintenance part, I added this because you can buy bikes that are horrendous to maintain (internal gearbox, weird suspension layout) and some are super easy. I wouldn't make it your main factor in choosing, but it's something to look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, not surprisingly, buying a bike is a lot like a car, you have to like it. That means, color, design, and feel; and that's something only you can determine. Some guys like riding a smaller frame because it's more &quot;flickable&quot; and others like a longer bike to have more stability at speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, there's really no substitute for riding the bike you want on a trail. Rentals, demos, and friend's bikes are great for this. Check with your local shops/clubs to see if you can find a bike you'd like to try and maybe meet someone at the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T19:00:14.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17685" CreationDate="2013-09-19T19:03:33.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a problem with it, it doesn't make a huge difference to the bike. A narrower front wheel gives more agility in steering, a wider rear wheel more traction in slippery conditions, so it's even a clever combination. The wheels are the same diameter, so it's possible the same tires will fit on both. Width is fiddly, though, so your narrow front and wide back might require different tires, though it is not necessarily the case, as it would be if, say, the front was 26&quot;, 650B, or 650A, and the back was a 700C. You can use the same tubes for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say go with it, and try it out for a while. If you find you really dislike the difference, a replacement wheel shouldn't be too hard to find.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2157" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T19:03:33.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17685" CreationDate="2013-09-19T19:10:09.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, there's no problem having different wheels or tires. There are actually some very good reasons to have a larger tire in the back than in the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger tires allow you to run the tire at a lower pressure and gives you a cushier feel. Slimmer tires are lighter, reduce rolling resistance and aerodynamic drag, and give the bike a more nimble feel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since rear wheel supports more weight, it makes more sense to put a larger tire in the rear. A larger tire. This isn't as much of a concern with the front wheel since it's supporting less weight. Also, your arms absorb an unexpected bump a bit more easily than your butt does. That being the case, you can put a smaller tire up front to make the steering more nimble and reduce weight, rolling resistance, and drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all the same reasons mentioned above, it's also relatively common to see rear wheels more stoutly built than their front counterparts. This is most apparent on high-end race bikes, which can have almost twice as many spokes on the rear wheel as they do on the front. The rear wheel spokes are also &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#semi-tangent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crossed&lt;/a&gt; to give them greater strength while the front are often laced &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#radial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;radially&lt;/a&gt; without any spokes crossing the others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-09-30T18:53:37.453" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T18:53:37.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17661" CreationDate="2013-09-19T20:19:55.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is pretty easy to answer. Several professional cyclists do already record their rides on Strava. A couple of the current most well-known male cyclists riding at UCI-level are Laurens Ten Dam and Taylor Phinney. You can see a full list covering various disciplines, levels and both genders at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/pros&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.strava.com/pros&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is about as close as you'll get to tracking actual athletes' times on specific segments of a race route. However, if you expect to find this data for all pros then your expectations are unrealistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally if you're interested in race stats you've hopefully already encountered the incredibly comprehensive &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.procyclingstats.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.procyclingstats.com&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8180" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T20:19:55.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17695" CreationDate="2013-09-19T21:14:02.537" Score="3" ViewCount="17289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new bike a three or four weeks ago and have noticed the issue arise this last week or two.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm going up a hill (or any heavy load), my gears will slip.  I don't think it's moving gears, it just seems to slip a bit.  My pedals will lose tension as I hear it slip, then will regain traction about a half a crank later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens pretty regularly while pedaling in low gear, maybe once or twice a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8181" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T08:23:06.670" Title="Slippage Under Load [New Bike]" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17688" CreationDate="2013-09-19T21:59:04.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is the alignment was like that before the accident and the reason the gears wont adjust is the derailleur hanger is bent, which is a $10 part and/or a visit to the LBS with a tool to fix it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the frame has been bent, although less than ideal, it is not a safety issue and would not stop me using it - as long as the derailleur hanger can be aligned correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there may be other more critical, but less obvious damage (cracks etc), that you are not aware of, and this be the reason for the insurance write off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for going to carbon frame, for the same money you are almost certainly better off with a steel or alloy frame. Cheap carbon, like everything, is cheap for a good reason. As Carbon is seen as a material with God like qualities by many novices, it commands a price premium based on that perception at the budget end, its until you are paying mid range prices that carbon really shines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T21:59:04.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17693" CreationDate="2013-09-19T23:04:53.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike is three or four weeks old it is most likely due for an initial readjustment. It takes a few weeks for the cables to stretch a bit and the derailleurs and springs to seat. This is why most shops want you to return the bike after a month or so to retorque the hardware and readjust the shifters usually for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T23:04:53.397" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17700" CreationDate="2013-09-20T03:15:08.603" Score="0" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I have my (large) single speed in the DC area -- but have just relocated to the LA area. I'm wondering; What is the best and most economical way to have my bicycle shipped across the states?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hopping for an option that is $100 or preferably less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4386" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T12:03:48.277" Title="Shipping my bike across US (DC &gt; LA)?" Tags="&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-09-20T13:38:46.180" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2013-09-20T04:44:19.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately there is a simple calculation which is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your height x the length of your beast / divided by 26.5 which would suggest your best with a 19&quot; frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trust that helps out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8184" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T04:44:19.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17447" CreationDate="2013-09-20T09:20:54.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Concerning bike saddles :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sit on the edge of something hard like a public bench. You will notice there are two bones in your butt carrying your weight. Those are your sit bones and are meant to carry your weight. On a saddle you want these two sit bones to rest on  the two bumps at the rear. Girls have sit bones spaced more than guys so you should select a girl saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the saddle is too narrow, it will press on your crotch, and wedge between your sit bones, and that's not comfortable. You will feel this very quickly. If it is too wide, it will rub inside your thighs and they will get sore. Wear cycling underwear, it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your butt is not used to cycling, all saddles will hurt a little at first after 10-20 minutes. So, at first, do not ride for too long. After getting used to it, a saddle that is well suited to you will not hurt at all, however a saddle that is not suited to you will always be a pain in the ass no matter what you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not choose a saddle that is too soft or plushy. This may seem like more comfortable at first, but your sit bones will sink too much into the plushy foam, allowing the center part of the saddle to dig into your crotch. This is a beginner mistake : it skips the &quot;getting used to it&quot; part (you have immediate comfort) but after say, 30 minutes it's hell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, adjustment is key, if the front part is too high the saddle nose will hurt you, if it is too low you will slide on it and your arms will get tired quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the riding position :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the city I don't like race bikes, position is too low to look at traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dutch-style bikes appear more comfortable, however being too &quot;upright&quot; is not good. First, you have less leg power. Second, when you ride over a bump, your back and your butt get compressed by the shock. With a slightly &quot;bent forward&quot; position, on bumps your back will just bend a little more, absorbing the bump without harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About bike geometry :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test ride at walking pace, some bikes balance much better than others. This is useful in parks with pedestrians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you'd need to test ride at a very fast speed too, but I don't know if you'll be able to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the bike itself :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't mention specific brands of bikes etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to really use the bike and get some mileage, get some quality components especially in the transmission, all brands (shimano, sram...) have many product lines from &quot;breaks down completely after 1000km&quot; to &quot;lasts more than 10.000 km if properly maintained&quot;. The cheap crap actually costs more if you consider you need to change everything pretty often. In Shimano, get Alivio/Deore range, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're heavy, get a rear wheel hub with a cassette, not a freewheel. Freewheel hubs are cheap junk, break axles, and usually have crap bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NYC is pretty flat but maybe you'll want to cross some bridges or go out of the city for a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are probably out of shape so your power to weight ratio is going to be pretty bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you intend to do any kind of climb, you will need some decent granny gears. This is important, since walking to push the bike will kill your motivation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want flats, put some schwalbe marathon plus tires, those are not cheap but last forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go shopping with the bike, you'll need a rack and panniers, and a good lock !!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway. Last year after a long break I resumed cycling. &#xA;I got a fitness/city bike with a decent granny gear (28T front/32T back), good for climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result :&#xA;before -&gt; after&#xA;weight 110kg -&gt; 100kg and lots of new muscles (still lots of fat to burn though)&#xA;tired after climbing 150m -&gt; i'm now at 1500 and 150km in a day&#xA;feel much better now too !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do the cardio training part right (get a cheap heart rate monitor) cycling is an excellent way to lose weight and (more important) get in shape and feel great...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T09:20:54.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17693" CreationDate="2013-09-20T11:48:04.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspect your chain rings and rear cogs for any visible damage, like missing or rounded teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this problem with the department store bike I ride now (2008ish Schwinn High Timber).  It was slipping on my first few rides around the neighborhood.  When I looked it over, I found that I had broken some teeth on the rear (no name) freewheel .  I managed to get it replaced via warranty and the new one held up for 1500~2000 miles of multi-use path riding.  However I managed to break teeth again when I started commuting and climbing up the hill to work.  I replaced it with a Shimano freewheel from the bike shop and haven't had any problems with it since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T11:48:04.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17696" CreationDate="2013-09-20T12:03:48.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question may be what you are looking for: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5/how-to-get-a-bike-from-one-city-to-another-in-the-u-s/61#61&quot;&gt;How to get a bike from one city to another in the U.S&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the obvious UPS, USPS, and FedEx, there is train shipping as Daniel suggests. Some bike shops and outdoors stores will pack and ship for you (good if you are not mechanically inclined). Bike shops are a good place to get free bike-sized cardboard boxes for some odd reason...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T12:03:48.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17703" CreationDate="2013-09-20T13:52:28.800" Score="23" ViewCount="1135" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all know right pedals are screwed regularly in the cranks.&#xA;Whereas left ones are screwed in the other direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it like this and not the other way around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how I see things: under normal circumstances, the direction of the thread matters little if at all since the bearing allows pedals to spin freely regardless of how they are attached to the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when the bearing has troubles, I would think the thread direction is here to protect the pedal from unscrewing from the crank as one is pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when you pedal forward, the right pedal is spinning counter-clockwise (since the crank is spinning clockwise) so you would unscrew the pedal from the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same works for the left: when you pedal, the pedal is spinning clockwise so in the direction to unscrew the inverted thread on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must be missing something,... but what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T15:47:13.347" Title="Why do left pedals have inverted thread?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7246" CreationDate="2013-09-20T14:11:43.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 4E feet and the only shoes that I have found that fit are Lake&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8186" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T14:11:43.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17701" CreationDate="2013-09-20T14:37:05.230" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reverse threading is to counter precession, not friction from the bearings. The wiki page explains it well (and I doubt I could): &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_(mechanical)&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_(mechanical)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T14:37:05.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2767" CreationDate="2013-09-20T14:49:39.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700c double wall, cassette for rear hub&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyres?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kevlar puncture guard tyres like the Marathon Plus are a bit slower and heavier than non-protected tyres. However, since you will get a flat tyre every year instead of every 2 weeks, you will no longer need to time your trip to arrive 10 minutes early just in case you get a flat. So in the end, it makes the trip faster if you need to arrive at a specific time. And the Marathons plusses last forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedals and shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road-bike clips/shoes are not designed for traffic light stops or walking. MTB clips/shoes are much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SPD are the standard but I don't like them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time Atac (like the Aliums which retail here in europe for about 35€ a pair) are a lot better, clip-unclip is instinctive and extremely fast. Also last forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid Crank Bros at all costs. They will break and you will die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you will climb, get a good assortment of granny gears.&#xA;If you won't this is less important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note most bikes are geared way too long. Having enough gears to run up to 50 kph isn't very useful unless you race. Having a good assortment of gears suited to your speed, your hills, and your power/weight is much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear hubs resist much better against dirt, corrosion, salt, etc, but are expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handlebars (e.g. flat or dropped)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In traffic you need to look far ahead, and also look back over your shoulder pretty often. Drop bars make this harder. Also your hand should always be ready on the brake just in case. So, I prefer straight bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame (size, shape, material)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mud-guard/fender?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it rains, yeah. From the last time I visited Toronto, definitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rack and pannier at the rear ; no backpack (makes you sweat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lights (very important).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For commuting what determines the average speed is :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- choice of route (safe and slow or fast and dangerous, your choice, you must explore around to find a fast and safe route)&#xA;2- traffic lights&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a typical city 20kph average is already very fast, you can't go much faster unless you burn all red lights and generally behave like a suicidal maniac. That's much faster than a car at rush hour, or a bus, though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T14:49:39.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13107" CreationDate="2013-09-20T15:15:22.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Something I learnt the hard way about gloves in winter/rain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When rainy, wear the gloves such that the jacket sleeve(cuff) covers the end of the glove near your wrist, think of it as tucking your glove inside of your cuff. I realized this as my hands and gloves are wet and cold as rain trickled down into my gloves from my shoulders; 60 miles into my first century ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T15:15:22.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17701" CreationDate="2013-09-20T15:47:13.347" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;superdesk's link to Wikipedia is excellent, but let me also add Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/pedals.html#tthreading&quot;&gt;explanation&lt;/a&gt;, which dismisses some other theories (like the ankle saving theory).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8188" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T15:47:13.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19057" CreationDate="2013-09-20T17:22:55.530" Score="1" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14000/more-freehub-removal-problems&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.  However, looking at a old 7 speed freehub body, it looks like it takes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;special spline wrench (TL-FH10)&lt;/a&gt;.  It looks very similar to the fixing bolt &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/images/freebod.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  Or do I need some other wrench to remove it using the notch?  I also did see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freewheel-destructive-removal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need this special tool to remove this freehub body or am I totally off?  Is there some other way to remove it without destroying it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: The freehub body does not have notches on it.  I will post a picture of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T13:24:54.130" Title="Removing Old Freehub Body" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2013-09-20T19:06:40.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some good information in some of the answers here, but, in reality, more information is needed to give a better answer. (Inseam, reach, type of riding you do...just to name a few key factors.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you've already made a choice by now, but just because you had a 19&quot; frame doesn't mean that it was correct or incorrect for you. &lt;em&gt;Certainly&lt;/em&gt; different size frames, with different stem combinations, tire sizes, and steering &amp;amp; frame angles will affect the handling of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely there's going to be nothing &quot;wrong&quot; with choosing either size (given most mainstream manufacturers fit guides and your height), but they will ride differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most (possibly all) types of mountain bike riding, if you need the seat moved to one end or the other of the rails, or if you feel you need a stem longer than 100mm, you probably need a different size frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8190" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T19:06:40.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17108" CreationDate="2013-09-20T19:15:30.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might not be possible to give you a 100% answer without opening the shock, but it certainly needs service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 months of use isn't a great determining factor for service intervals, hours of riding and type of riding (how big, how dirty) are much more important. Have you rebuilt your air can yet? Do you know how many hours you have on the shock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably run it for a bit (until winter), but it may or may not make it. Either way, the shock needs rebuilt. Sorry dude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8190" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T19:15:30.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17192" CreationDate="2013-09-20T19:19:33.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guy from the &quot;maintenance&quot; company is kinda right, kinda not. Talking to an expert (like PUSH) would be where to go to find out what changes work with your particular bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8190" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T19:19:33.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17675" CreationDate="2013-09-20T19:23:07.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally late fall (when new bike are arriving on dealers showrooms) or in the middle of winter (when dealers want to move inventory just to help cash flow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the older a bike is, the more likely it is to be discounted, but it will also be less likely that you will find the size/spec. that you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8190" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T19:23:07.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17204" CreationDate="2013-09-20T19:44:32.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this thread is old, but I'll share my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compete in major marathon races (4+ hours) and finish in the top 30% (at worst).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 4-5 hours of trail riding (not racing) I usually pack a banana, and apple, and 1/2 of a peanut butter and honey sandwich. I eat every hour(ish). Usually the banana first (to help block lactic acid build up late in the ride), the sandwich in the middle (protein and some slow - peanut butter, and quick - honey, energy). I eat the apple at the end (last 30-45 minutes) for quick energy, plus they're wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your body can't really process a large amount of calories during a ride that short, and certainly not from complex food sources. I try to keep my food sources natural, so as to not end up with gastric distress of some sort (which will kill your body's ability to output).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For racing, I wouldn't eat anything other than a banana or two during a 4-5 hour race. Most food (non-fruit) is going to take 4-6 hours for it to really be usable by your body, and the chance of gastric distress isn't worth it. In the second half of a race, I'll probably kill a energy gel of some sort every 30 minutes or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always try to eat something sensible (and in a reasonable, non-oversize portion) about 2-2.5 hours before I go for a big ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MOST IMPORTANT thing for prolonged riding is hydration. Going hypoglycemic is not nearly as easy to do as making yourself dehydrated. Once your cells are dehydrated, they don't function at 100% regardless of how much fuel is available to burn. If you ride for a long time, you will become dehydrated. Keep hydrated all the time, and pay a lot of attention to your water intake for the several days preceding a long ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there is a PHD that will give you a better answer (or 2 PHDs that will give you 2 similar, but not totally in agreement, answers), but I try to keep it pretty simple without trying to become a PHD myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drink water (I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skratchlabs.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;skratch labs&lt;/a&gt; hydration mix.), eat food your grandma recognizes (I'm not suggesting Ensure!), and go have some fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8190" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T19:44:32.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12683" CreationDate="2013-09-20T23:26:00.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use those sackpacks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adidas.com/us/product/rover-sackpack/LB750AB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.adidas.com/us/product/rover-sackpack/LB750AB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, they work very well. And when not in use, you can fold it up and tie it to your top bar or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are also very washable. I sweat a lot when biking and I just simply throw it in with my laundry and comes out clean and dries very easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7793" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T23:26:00.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2013-09-21T01:37:43.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;as far as stopping power...a front rim brake because : 1. disc brake require more torque cessation at the center of the wheel 2. coaster brakes even more torque 3.it's safer to lean back with a front brake than to lean forward with any brake which you could do with a rear brake, but as previously stated when stopping  more weight is shifted to the front and that is where braking is most effective. so....front and rear rim brakes would ultimately be safest but for stopping power and safety at least a front rim brake is my choice. YOLO!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8191" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T01:37:43.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4736" CreationDate="2013-09-21T05:24:44.297" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the road is wide, really empty, &lt;em&gt;safe&lt;/em&gt;, with excellent visibility, and maybe even one-way going up, then you might suggest weaving back and forth to make their own &quot;switchbacks&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this does not apply to riding a shoulder or on busy streets, etc., and so is not widely applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T05:24:44.297" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-21T15:08:30.820" Score="8" ViewCount="3158" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son (age 15) and I have ridden a couple of thousand miles in the past few years--road riding. We like mountain climbs and descents. He was on a comfort bike until a month ago, when he acquired his big brother's road bike--an older Cannondale Saeco with an aluminum frame. The other day, standing on the pedals and sprinting hard at about 25 mph, he lost control, veered right, and hit a concrete storm-sewer inlet at the side of the road. He crunched the front wheel, bent the frame, and dinged himself up pretty good--thankfully no head injury or internal injuries. This whole time I've been riding a mountain bike with 1.6-inch road tires. For at time I also had a road bike (a nice, older Klein Aura V). To me the road bike felt a little twitchy in its handling, and, with safety in view (as well as my wife's peace of mind), I decided to stick with the mountain bike, which felt a little more stable and of course has stronger wheels and wider tires. Now we need to decide what kind of bike to get for my son. I'm not finding a great deal of discussion on the internet about relative safety of road-style bikes vs. mountain bikes for road riding. I'm sure there's a great deal of variety of handling characteristics within each category, depending on wheelbase, frame stiffness and geometry, wheel diameter and weight, etc. Sure would appreciate any helpful discussion of the safety issues here, or pointers to web sites where these things are knowledgeably discussed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8193" LastActivityDate="2017-10-17T03:20:53.720" Title="For road riding, are mountain bikes safer than road bikes?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="27" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2013-09-21T15:18:11.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Insofar possible, &lt;strong&gt;don't be the cyclist stereotype in someone's head.&lt;/strong&gt; Or if you can't avoid it, find another cyclist who isn't, and introduce them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're the kind of Lycra Lad/Lass superhero type (right down to the spandex!) usually seen in bike advertising, this will be difficult, granted. A lot of us aren't like that, though, and that helps other people who aren't like that think &quot;hey, if &lt;em&gt;they&lt;/em&gt; bike, maybe I can too.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists who wear street clothes (even dresses) while cycling, fat cyclists like me, middle-aged (me!) and older cyclists, cyclists who cycle home in triumph with the farmer's-market haul for the week in panniers or Wald baskets... the more visible we are, and the more we seem to like our cycling without becoming intrusive evangelists for it, the more we break down imagined barriers to cycling in others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotally, an unconventionally attractive, comfortable-looking bike can be a useful conversation piece. I got into a lot more conversations with curious strangers over my purple Electra Townie with its unusual curved outline than I do now with my somewhat more conventional-looking custom step-through. (Though it's lavender-colored, and that helps.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastEditorUserId="3631" LastEditDate="2013-09-21T15:28:35.123" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T15:28:35.123" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-21T15:18:11.783" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2013-09-22T02:04:21.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be the example that leads people to ask questions about why they don't ride. Not in a pushy way, but just through lived experience. When you're meeting people somewhere, turn up on your bike. Park it right next to your destination, go in. If it's raining, take your bike on the train with the other train users. Show that there's no need to be a purist about it. Over time you'll build up in people's memories all the times a group of people went from place to place and the bike was faster as well as cheaper and easier to park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that sinks in as lived experience rather than &quot;10 things you need to know&quot;,  they're much more likely to have a go themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T02:04:21.880" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-22T02:04:21.880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2013-09-22T08:31:05.617" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With friends the subject of cars and traffic is bound to come up in the conversation one way or another, that is the time to say stuff like :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't remember what a traffic jam feels like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The last time I put gas in the car, was it last month or the month before ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is always a free parking spot right in front of where I'm going, that's convenient...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the restaurant, while the girls eat their salads, and you ravenously chomp  barbecue ribs and french fries, casually mention that you lost XX kilos of fat on your bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T08:31:05.617" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-22T08:31:05.617" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4736" CreationDate="2013-09-22T09:12:05.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone has a maximum &quot;enjoyable&quot; power (in watts) that they can output for an certain time, more time means less power of course. A cycling champion might do 400W for 1 hour, a newbie perhaps 80W...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is the newbie doesn't know how to listen to his untrained body, so he &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; cross the red line, especially if well motivated, and will get out of resources (glycogen) or get cramps, acid overdose, or get out of breath, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need to micromanage the newbies the same way do with your own body when cycling, except you have much less feedback. So you need to chat with them, and very often tell them to go slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to know what is &lt;strong&gt;possible&lt;/strong&gt; for your friends. No matter the motivation, you can not ask the &lt;strong&gt;impossible&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;know the power to weight ratio of the other guys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;know the gearing they have on their bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thus, calculate the maximum slope.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a newbie (1 hour P=100 watts) fat (m=120 kg including bike) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;max vertical speed = P/mg = 0.085 m/s = 5 m/min = 300 m/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's suppose he has a granny gear of 32T front, 28T rear (a very bad choice for him), wheel circumference 2m, cadence 60 rpm :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;minimum speed = (60 rpm)/60 * 2m * 32/28 = 2.28 m/s = 8.2 km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We will not make him stand on the pedals (too tiring) or use a lower cadence (not enough more muscle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what maximum slope can this guy climb happily ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;300m every 8.2km = 3.6%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes I know, this isn't even a hill, for a seasoned cyclist it's pretty flat, but for a fat newbie on a bike with a transmission unsuitable for him, it's the maximum he can do. For a minute or two he can do 2x more, but not longer. Choose your routes appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he has a better transmission (shorter gears) he can climb more percentage while staying at the same power, this means slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a very useful tool : the GPS' variometer which tells me my climb rate in m/min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm with MTB buddies who are &lt;strong&gt;faster&lt;/strong&gt; climbers that me, I look at the variometer : I know how long I can last at various climbing speeds, so I know when not to follow them and go at my pace. They'll wait for me at the top, but not long, since I won't be out of breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm with buddies who are &lt;strong&gt;slower&lt;/strong&gt; climbers that me, I also look at the variometer : I know I shouldn't push them past &quot;x&quot; m/min, and follow that rule. It does work well !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T09:12:05.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3866" CreationDate="2013-09-22T14:36:54.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in France a bicycle is required to be sold with lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that all bicycles are sold with the cheapest possible lights, which are utterly useless. The usual model is a xenon light, which eats batteries like crazy and illuminates a tiny pixel on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is understood that the buyer will throw away the useless light and install another one (or not). More waste !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mandatory reflectors make sense : since a decent reflector costs only a few cents, all bikes are sold with reflectors that work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mandatory lights at point of sale do not make any sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To ride in the day, and perhaps in the evening or in the city where public lighting is available, you don't need a light, you need a 3€ white blinkie on the front, and a 3€ red blinkie on the rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any dirt cheap LED blinkie provides &lt;strong&gt;much more&lt;/strong&gt; safety than a crap xenon headlight because :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- The batteries in a blinkie last forever (several months). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when needed, the batteries will be good, and it will work. On a cheap xenon headlight, the batteries last 1 hour, so when you need it, they will be discharged. Safety : zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- All the 3€ blinkies I've, allow the cyclist &lt;strong&gt;to be seen&lt;/strong&gt; much better than any cheapo xenon head light. Because they have non-dead battery, they blink, and LEDs focus the light pretty well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, a blinkie doesn't light the road. But a cheapo light doesn't either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to light the road, you need a 50-80€ LED headlight with stVZO compliant beam. Obviously, with this kind of price, you'd only buy one if you intend to actually ride at night, out of public lights...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2013-09-22T17:02:31.233" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T17:02:31.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16230" CreationDate="2013-09-22T17:13:33.443" Score="-1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;do you think it'd be safe for me to mount such a noodle on my bicycle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. You will slap pedestrians' butts and children's faces with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T17:13:33.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="540" CreationDate="2013-09-22T19:00:54.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For getting the size correct, I stick coins into the rim until I get a combination that barely fits in the slot of the rim.  Then measure the that stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8200" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T19:00:54.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13505" CreationDate="2013-09-22T19:46:32.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run TRP CX8.4s with Shimano Ultegra 6700 levers on my C`dale SuperX and the braking powers superb!!  Light years better than the TRP euro cantis the bike came with.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8201" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T19:46:32.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-22T22:25:06.500" Score="1" ViewCount="1101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last 20 mm of my new Fox 32 Talas 29&quot; 130mm 2013 fork is not possible to reach. It gets quickly hard before the full travel. It is ridden for 150 km so far. Tested both on trail (hitting rocks on hard descents, yet no jumps from 2m or so) and statically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard the Talas is quite a progressive trail fork but I would describe this behaviour rather as an edge than progressive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without an air pressure, the full travel is possible to get (with squelching sound at the end) but as the pressure goes up the raising edge is killing the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With very low pressure of 50 PSI the edge is still almost at the end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With pressure of 75 PSI (optimum for my 80 kg) the last 20mm is&#xA;just unreachable (neither on trail nor by pressing down hard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Behaviour at pressures around 65-85 is similar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork is mounted on Specialized StumpJumper FSR Elite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it an error or a „feature“? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will it get better over time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to set it up? E. g. by a tuning in a service centre. Or is that edge just a design not possible to tune? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7851" LastEditorUserId="7851" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T09:34:44.690" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T09:34:44.690" Title="Fox Talas full travel not reachable" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16703" CreationDate="2013-09-23T01:03:16.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I add my two cents here I'll mention that this post is rather old to be unanswered.  If you figured this out already write an answer and choose it as &quot;the answer&quot; so it doesn't show up as unanswered and others can learn from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, by &quot;play&quot; you could mean front to back (as in the length of the post/bolt) or around the bushing (as in a difference in the diameter of the post and hole in the brake arm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just checked the oldest canti-brake bike I've got (from the 1980s) and there is no play in either sense described above. So I would attempt to solve that problem next as the things you've already tried are all good, especially your choice of pads.  You might want to try the salmon colored rather than the dual compound though. They are the better of the two compounds for braking but they wear out faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the former type of play I agree with the advice of @Daniel R Hicks.  If it is the other and you don't have replaceable canti-studs you ought to replace the brakes (arms) themselves. If there is play when they are at rest they will shimmy and shudder when braking. If there is play due to the strength of fork then you need a brake booster as suggested by @armb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question for you - are both the brakes and levers original to the bike or have you replaced either? Mixing canti and v-brake components will cause problems but I haven't heard of noise being one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final note - take heart! I have a friend who is a fanatic about bike maintenance.  He was a bike mechanic, but now is an engineer in aerospace and his bike stuff is rather high end.  Last year he adjusted and replaced everything and never found the source of the noise.  He replaced the bike instead!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5172" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T01:03:16.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16659" CreationDate="2013-09-23T01:28:46.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best advice will vary from one knowledgeable person to another but it will almost always matter if your &lt;strong&gt;main criteria is comfort, handling, rolling resistance, durability or puncture resistance.  And, of course, price.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look on Schwalbe's web site you'll see that they give a rating for each criteria for every tire.  When you want to maximize several criteria you'll wind up with something like their Marathon Supreme tires for about $75 each.  Even then they are not their &quot;fast&quot; tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that Sheldon Brown and others have written/proven that, on bicycles at least, tread does not affect handling on wet pavement.  There just is not enough of a contact patch to cause hydroplaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And regarding Kevlar beads, one advantage they do have it that they can be folded up to more easily be carried as a spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5172" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T01:28:46.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17727" CreationDate="2013-09-23T04:59:53.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer assumes that you've correctly set the sag of your fork. You need to have 15%, 20% or 25% of sag depending on your riding style and trail types you usually ride. If not, then go ahead and fix that first. You can also remove most of the air from the fork (just leave 5 PSI) and see if it gets full travel (by pressing down statically), just for making sure that it does work. Then reinflate to correct pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the last 20mm is just unreachable (neither on trail nor by pressing down hard)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be very wrong to be able to reach that by pressing down hard. It would also be wrong to use that 20mm on a soft trail ride. That 20mm is there for dealing with the very rough stuff such as jumps or drops to flat, hitting rocks or roots hard etc. That 20mm may save you from falling once or twice and is also there to prevent you from damaging the forks. Note though that bottoming out the fork once per ride is not very bad and will most probably not damage the forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that I've also used a talas 32 100/120/140 2009 for 2 years and the last 20mm of travel would only work on drops and hard hits on fast downhill runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it an error or a „feature“?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feature. The air spring is progressive (not linear). Thin 32mm stanchions (which means less volume for the air spring mechanism) usually make this worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will it get better over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. And if it does then something else must be going on. E.g lost air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to set it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, by removing air from the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T04:59:53.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16659" CreationDate="2013-09-23T08:27:13.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how you intend to use the bike. If you're intending to race, you'll probably want something lightweight and very grippy. If you're commuting or touring you should tend towards the durable end of the tire spectrum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a nice steel frame like that you'll get lots of comfort, so it seems to &quot;fit&quot; with putting wider, comfortable, durable tires on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wider tire is more comfortable with the only disadvantage being that it is a bit heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike originally had 28mm tires, I would expect it to take 25-35mm with no problem, but check the rims for any other indication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two you've listed don't have a great reputation for durability, so it may be worth investing a little more for something that will last longer and save you the frustration of punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider Continental Gatorskins or Schwalbe Marathons. Both are more expensive, but offer good puncture protection which, in the long run, shortens your journey time more than a few grams of weight saving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T08:27:13.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2013-09-23T11:34:56.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 6ft and just brought a medium Lapierre (43) and so far am finding it fine. I was riding a large Giant Trance before this and often felt I was over reaching when going down hill (also had upper back pain often). The only thing I've noticed so far is needing to adjust my riding style to ensure I'm not too far forward and getting the weight over the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might condider a dropper post with a slight lay back if I can find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8207" LastEditorUserId="8207" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T11:50:51.823" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T11:50:51.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12683" CreationDate="2013-09-23T12:52:40.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a genetic answer for you:  One that neither comes up too high nor is too wide at the top.  My camera rucksack is reasonably large, but because it narrows significantly at the top I can look over my shoulder with no problem.  The backpack I'm more likely to use for riding to the shops is not much bigger, but makes it &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; harder to look behind me (though it is a better shape for carrying (e.g.) bread at the top).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you might like chest and waist straps to keep the bag tightly attached to you, and possibly compression straps to shrink the bag to the load.  These should all stop the bag swinging around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proper loading is important as I mentioned in my comment - keep the heavy stuff low for stability, with the benefit of not squashing other shopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T12:52:40.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17741" CreationDate="2013-09-23T14:53:40.080" Score="16" ViewCount="2094" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is it that on a typical mid-level road triple crankset, the outer rings (larger rings) will be aluminum, while the inner ring (small ring) is chro-mo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that if aluminium was good enough for one, it'd be good enough for all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have to do with the amount of force applied to each ring? Perhaps the smallest ring is likely to be used in climbing situations, when the cyclist is standing, so the most force is being applied to the crank at that point (and thus you need a stronger ring)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7118" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:50:02.297" Title="Why use multiple materials on chainrings?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17737" CreationDate="2013-09-23T15:29:18.910" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question! There are a couple important reasons for the differing materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wear&lt;/strong&gt;: Steel lasts longer than aluminum, plain and simple. So why not use steel on all the rings? The larger rings have ramps on the sides that facilitate shifting and cannot be flipped as the ring wears. The granny ring can, therefore it can last a lot longer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flexion/Bending&lt;/strong&gt;: As a chainring's size increases, it becomes more prone to flexing and bending due to the torque/load on it. Straight steel would actually bend pretty easily, but the way they CNC rings allows for greater support on the rings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight&lt;/strong&gt;: Steel weighs more than aluminum, same for CroMo. For a small ring, the difference is going to be a lot less than a larger ring.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt;: Just like a nice steel frame bike vs aluminum, the better material costs more money, it might just be a cost saving angle. (Note, this applies to other materials too like titanium).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you've got multiple reasons why the manufacturer/seller has different ring materials. It's most likely a combination of the above, and a tradeoff for one or more (more weight vs less strength, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T15:29:18.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17737" CreationDate="2013-09-23T15:38:13.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mainly, due to &quot;lever arm&quot; issues, far more force is applied to the teeth of the smallest ring, and they need to be the strongest.  This is exacerbated by the fact that the force is spread over fewer teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For #2 I'd list weight -- with the small ring using aluminum would save very little weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T15:38:13.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16202" CreationDate="2013-09-23T16:07:27.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a great idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front brakes are often used. You will enjoy the strength and control of disc brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, I believe, disc brake pads wear slower then rubber pads - another win&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will suffer weight penalty (as disc brakes are heavier), but the good news is that it will be small - you will retain the light rarely used rear brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T16:07:27.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17737" CreationDate="2013-09-23T16:09:58.127" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually a matter of the force multiplication that each chainring provides, and the size/mass of each chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Force difference&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's propose, only for a moment that you had a chainring as big that the radius of it is almost the same as the crank length. If the rider stood to pedal while using that chainring (and using simple platform pedals). The max theoretical force on the chain will be equal the the rider's weight. (Assuming he/she is not pulling on the handlebar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's get rid of that impractical and ridiculously large chainring, and install a more realistic one, one that has a radius of approximately half the length of the crank. Now when the rider repeats the previous experiment, now, the maximum theoretical force applied the the rider's weight*2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you repeat the whole experiment, but this time with a chainring having a radius of 1/4 of the crank length, the maximum force in the chain would be 4 times rider's weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, In a simple mechanism like a crankset, the output force can be calculated as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OF = IF * (Ir / Or).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where IF = Input force, Ir = input radius, Or = Output radius. And radius is the distance from the axle to the point where the force is exerted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can imagine, most tripe chainring crankset have a large chainring that has a radius roughly half crank length. An the smaller chainring is half as big. Effectively, the typical triple crankset doubles the output force in the small chainring relative to the largest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight matters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is only part of the topic. The bigger the chainring, the heavier it is. And it is also a rotating part of the bike, so, some may argue that it's rotational inertia would matter. As you can guess, CroMo chainring are heavier than Al.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Durability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That still doesn't fully explain the decision, but here it goes: aluminum typically has less resistance against friction wear than steel. For example, if you had to file down a bump in an aluminium piece, you would do it with low effort, compared to the similar job on even mild steel. Added to this is the fact that a new chain in a new chainring engages several teeth with full roller-tooth contact, effectively spreading the load among each contact point. The small chainring can provide less contact points to spread the load, with means that each tooth is subjected to a bigger fraction of the total force applied by the rider and multiplied by the crank. That means that a tooth in the small chainring bears a much greater load than a tooth in the big chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Usage ratio&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Into this we can add the rather subjective argument that most riders would spend more time in the middle chainring, perhaps in the small one or jumping a lot between them, while the large one is used more sporadically, usually in fast descents where the rider won't use his/her full strength and not for long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these arguments make the chosen materials good compromise between weight, durability and maybe, cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum small and middle chainrings would wear out too fast, and would be prone to bending from incorrect shifting technique. A big chainring made of steel would be heavier and the difference would be easily perceptible while holding the crankset in hand, so the crankset with the aluminum big chainring would make the best buy among the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight difference between small chainrings made of these materials would be less perceptible, and the buyer may not be so appealed to pay the price difference for such a small weight loss(gain?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, aluminium small chainrings may be better suited for professional riders, whose may ideally be properly sponsored, so spending a chainring per race is not a big deal. Also, he/she may (ideally) have an optimized shifting technique (i.e. the rider has identified his/her shifting technique faults and has corrected them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:50:02.297" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:50:02.297" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2013-09-23T18:41:37.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bit late to the party but here's my ha'penneth:&#xA;As noted above a common manufacturing method of CF frames involves &quot;laying-up&quot; multiple layers of resin impregnated fibres of differing orientations to optimise the strength characteristics according to the expected loads and required performance of the frame (e.g. rigid vs supple/flexibe). In this sense CF may be more precisely tailored to a set of requirements for the lightest weight. &#xA;As with every engineering problem there are compromises. Each layer is essentially two dimensional (think x and y axis for a flat sheet), the third dimension, thickness (think z axis) is just the accumulation of layers of fibres but does not have any fibre strength per se, only strength from the resin matrix that holds all the fibres together. So it is through the thickness of the material that CF composite structures are weakest. And a common mode of failure is known as delamination (the bond between layers fails). This can happen from a blow to the surface and any delamination within the layers will not be externally visible. Only scans can detect the extent of any damage - the low-tech method involves tapping the surface and listening for any changes in tone of the taps - it does requires a trained ear and is less obvious for the layman to differentiate between a change in tone due to a delamination versus say a change in the underlying layup (extr layers near joins etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delamination is the weak spot of CF frames and why, in my opinion, they may be described as &quot;strong&quot; but NOT &quot;tough&quot; or &quot;resilient to damage&quot;. Since any old bang could jeopardise the strength of the frame and led to an unexpected sudden catastrophic failure. Metal on the other hand gradually yields when overloaded - so sudden failure (if correctly designed) is less likely to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the big question for me has always been - if I crash a CF bike how will I know that the fame still has structural integrity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I speak as a cyclist and engineer who specialised in my early career in composite and bonded materials. The answer to the risk of delamination lies in composite materials where fibres also run in the z (thickness) dimension. This may be acheived through &quot;knitted&quot; fibre structures where fibres link/lock the layers together - the dry fibre &quot;knit&quot; is then held in a mould and liquid resin injected and cured. As far as I am aware no manufacturer yet uses this technique (costly - military/aerospace budget type stuff). They continue with the traditional lay-up of pre-impregnated fibres method. Some manufacturers talk of &quot;weaving fibres together&quot; from one tube to another in a bike frame but I don'y think this is the &quot;knitting&quot; through the layers of a more advanced manufacturing technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8213" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T18:41:37.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17747" CreationDate="2013-09-23T23:11:06.773" Score="8" ViewCount="12338" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of buying plastic over metal tire levers? (or vice versa). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which ones are easier to use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8216" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2020-03-25T18:22:34.750" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T18:22:34.750" Title="Metal vs. plastic tire levers" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;tire-lever&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2013-09-23T23:21:32.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not mock.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not mock others' choice of bicycle, bicycle color, bicycle accessory, or bicycle decoration. Do not mock others' choice of clothing, or how they look in it. Do not mock others' speed, or lack of it. Do not mock others' helmet, or lack thereof. Do not mock others' comfort level with bicycle repair. Do not mock any cycling-etiquette faux pas you see. Do not mock others' weight or fitness level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obvious safety issues, sure, bring it up, nobody wants a friend or family member hurt -- but discuss it without sarcasm or snobbery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This goes beyond making sure you don't specifically alienate the person you're trying to convince, though that is certainly a consideration. It's more generalized than that: mocking third parties makes non-cyclists believe they'll just be somebody else's meanness target if they start cycling. Instead, you want to establish that cycling is a pursuit with an accepting, welcoming, helpful community. You want your friends or family members to believe that if they start cycling, they're not letting themselves in for a whole bunch of grief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've broken these rules myself, and always regretted it. Please do better than I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T23:21:32.727" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-23T23:21:32.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17743" CreationDate="2013-09-23T23:39:52.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic tire levers are more likely (than metal) to break. Especially over many uses, they'll eventually fatigue. They also tend to flex more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal tire levers are more likely (than plastic) to damage the wheel rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible to get plastic-coated metal levers that get the best of both worlds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're in a shop and using the levers dozens of times a day for years, you might as well just get the plastic levers, because they're inexpensive and the differences are fairly small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither is really easier to use than the other. Length of the lever makes a bigger difference than material, and having a notch on the back end of the lever that can hold onto a spoke can be handy when dealing with a tight tire, since it allows you to keep a lever in place without using your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T23:39:52.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17748" CreationDate="2013-09-23T23:43:11.610" Score="4" ViewCount="3411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, on my single-speed bike, the right crank arm just snapped. Was slowly going up a hill, and all of a sudden it broke in two pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have now exchanged the entire crank &amp;amp; chain set (sadly had to give away my beloved spider crank!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afaik this is not a very usual thing to happen. &#xA;What could have caused it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It looked pretty much exactly like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-052.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8216" LastEditorUserId="8216" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T14:14:19.630" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T14:14:19.630" Title="Crank arm snapped: what could have caused it?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17743" CreationDate="2013-09-23T23:54:16.363" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It largely depends on the usage you want to make of them and the particular tire/rim combination you use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic levers are usually small and lightweight, and if they are of good quality, they are enough for most tires that are properly fitted to the rim. I mention this because sometimes, rims and tires can physically differ from the nominal size they bear in their labels, so a tire may fit way too tightly in a rim. Other times, the wire collar in the bead may be too stiff. These two situations make them very hard to pry out, thus a tiny plastic lever may break, however, this is a rather rare case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small and light tire levers are ideal to carry in the emergency tool set for on the road or on the trail repairs. And for most cyclists that may now and then perform a tire swap at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal tire levers may be heavier or more expensive (due to being manufactured from fancy metals), and usually are bigger and better suited to shops where several tires are swapped or repaired by the same user each day. In this situation the large lever makes the work easier by providing (you guessed it) more leverage. They are also well suited for the situation described above, specially if for any reason you are forced to almost always use a tire that &quot;almost fits&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason to prefer plastic levers is that it is very difficult to damage a rim or a tire bead, while a poorly polished metal tire lever, or a poorly used one may easily damage the rim or the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the other hand, I would advise not using plastic levers that are too flexible or too thin and brittle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that there are also levers made of a metal core covered in plastic. They are kind of in the middle of both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I consider tire levers survival equipment, along with patches and glue and/or an extra tube, thus, if first time buying tire levers, or first time buying that brand/model, I strongly advise testing them at home before engaging on a long tour alone or you being the only one carrying emergency items like these, so you don't get stranded in a far place with a puncture and a pair of failed tire levers...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-09-24T13:20:09.963" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T13:20:09.963" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17746" CreationDate="2013-09-23T23:59:39.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crank arms snap all the time. Odds are pretty good that it was an older crank and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fatigue&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fatigue&lt;/a&gt; in the metal built up enough that it was no longer structurally sound. Metals are a lot like crystals on the atomic scale, but when you repeatedly put a load on them tiny cracks begin to form and grow, until the metal is warn out and cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fatigued metal is also more likely to snap when subjected to above average forces, so it makes sense that this happened when you were hammering up a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Airlines around the world are required to have their aircraft x-rayed periodically for signs of fatigue. When they see microscopic cracks they replace the part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it wasn't an old part it's likely that there was a flaw in metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T23:59:39.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4736" CreationDate="2013-09-24T00:04:56.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let the group know that, in terms of training benefit, climbing hills is a quality workout: this is where you build strength, and where obvious progressive gains can me made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, make the group believe that it really does get easier: that what are mountains today will be molehills tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect everyone's equipment to make sure it is set up properly for their size for good pedal power from a seated position. Maybe some dislike climbing more than they should, because their bike is not set up for it, causing them to exert more total effort than necessary in order to conquer a given hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, have everyone check their tire pressure. Riders with low tire pressure and poor configuration of seat height are effectively climbing a taller hill than their companions with harder tires and more optimal configuration of bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Encourage the group to use a higher gear than what is comfortable, at least for a portion of the climb, as a form of resistance training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Encourage the group to gain more power from standing up, and to develop the endurance in the supporting muscles to maintain the standing position over longer climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support those who want to take one or more rests along the incline: this is interval training in disguise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a steeper and less steep path to reach a point, divide the group into two: those who want to challenge the incline, and those who want a more gradual incline. If the steepsters reach the join point first, wait for the graduals before continuing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T00:04:56.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17752" CreationDate="2013-09-24T03:05:59.253" Score="14" ViewCount="5125" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4602/how-to-get-a-very-tight-tire-back-on-the-rim&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; talks about fitting a tyre back onto a rim, but I'd like to know how to get the tyre off in the first place. Especially if the tyre is very tight, or the dip in the middle of the rim section is very shallow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of my bikes have 406 wheels, and I use Marathon Plus tyres which are quite rigid, so they're really hard to remove without breaking tyre levers or pinching the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to get those tyres off the rim so I can fix a puncture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've just realised we don't actually have this question, or any answers!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T20:41:31.193" Title="What's the best technique for removing a tyre from the rim?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;tire-lever&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="513" CreationDate="2013-09-24T03:14:35.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;ICE Trikes are made and presumably sold in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icetrikes.co/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.icetrikes.co/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8218" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T03:14:35.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17750" CreationDate="2013-09-24T03:44:02.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically the same deal as the question about mounting a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure all the air is out of the tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible, pop just one side of the bead all the way around the wheel. Popping one side only will give the bead more room in the well in the middle of the rim, and thus give you more bead to pull over the top of the rim on the opposite side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Begin to work the bead over the rim with your thumbs or a tire lever. As you work the bead over the lip of the rim on one side it can help to push the tire bead into the well around the opposite side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can help to start working the bead over close to, but not directly over, the valve stem. Otherwise the valve stem creates a bump in the middle of the well in the center of the rim which takes up some of the slack you need to remove the bead from the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're using your thumbs, try to pin the bit of the bead you've worked over the edge of the rim in place with one thumb as you slowly work more of the bead over with the other thumb. It's ok if the opposite bead pops out around the area you're trying to remove.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're using tire levers, don't poke a large portion of the lever under the tire as you try to pry it off. Many levers have a small hook on one end that you can attach to a spoke, freeing both hands as you work the next lever under the bead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At some point you'll get enough of the side of the tire you're trying to remove over the rim that you can slide a finger/lever between the bead and the rim to remove the rest quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other side should come off with relative ease by hand. If not, remove the tube and follow the same process as with the first bead, prying it off on the same side that you popped the first side off on.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T03:44:02.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17746" CreationDate="2013-09-24T03:48:52.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's true that just like most things crankarms will have a fatigue life, but it should be a very, very long life that extends well beyond the factory warranty period. As pointed out by mikes in his comment it is worth checking for recalls on your model and batch of cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T03:48:52.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16202" CreationDate="2013-09-24T04:05:24.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bunch of people have done &quot;disc-checks&quot; usually using something like a Kona Project 2 disc fork or Dimension fork or something similar (Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/surly/steel-disc-fork-crosscheck-572029.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.mtbr.com/surly/steel-disc-fork-crosscheck-572029.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you can do it provided the geometry and fork quality is OK (Alternatively, you can upgrade to the new Surly Straggler :3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some bikes, you can also install a bolt on conversion kit, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://2btherapy.com/bikes/brake-therapy-conversion-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://2btherapy.com/bikes/brake-therapy-conversion-kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-01T16:14:44.297" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T16:14:44.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17716" CreationDate="2013-09-24T10:11:59.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say it's debatable and depends on the individual's preference. Mountain bikes (MTBs) obviously have more traction due to wider and more grippy tyre designs. However a road bike could hold a turn better due to lack of shoulder on the tyre. Speeds tend to be lower on a mountain bike due to added weight and those grippy tyres. On the other hand these slower speeds could be a disadvantage in road traffic. (for reference I ride both an MTB mainly off road and a hybrid with road tyres for paved trails and roads)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend looking at better/further safety equipment (knee pads, elbow pads, gloves etc) and/or training rather than a new bike. For one, It's cheaper, but it will also install confidence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to try with a rented mountain bike to see which your son prefers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-09-24T22:27:49.590" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T22:27:49.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17758" CreationDate="2013-09-24T11:39:46.113" Score="1" ViewCount="2161" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first question on here so please take it easy :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be relocating to Surrey (UK) in 2 weeks due to being offered a new job (as a software developer) and I am thinking of (finally) treating myself to a fixed-gear bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually drive to work due to the fact that the weather is usually quite rubbish where I currently live (UK - north west), and also due to the fact that I can't get to work all sweaty as I work in an office, but have cycled during the summer on a cheap &quot;fat-tyre&quot; bike and although it was very hard work I loved it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love bicycles and I have always wanted a bike that looks cool and that doesn't cost an arm and a leg - those that are +£300 are a no-no so I have come across the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.retrospecbicycles.com/siddhartha-cruiser.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Restrospec Siddhartha&lt;/a&gt; fixie - however they only sell them in the USA (haven't yet found a UK dealer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have three questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Will this bike be suitable for someone like myself that will use it to commute to work (around 15 miles roundtrip)  and go for rides whenever I feel like it and at weekends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- Do you know anyone selling this bike in the UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- Could you recommend me similar style bikes (fixie) that have clean design and are &amp;lt;£200?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your help and advice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8221" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T12:20:29.633" Title="Will this Retrospec Siddhartha bike suit my needs?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;uk&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="18" ClosedDate="2013-09-24T13:26:26.423" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17757" CreationDate="2013-09-24T12:20:29.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love to surf the internet for the ultimate bike. However, I always end up going to my local friendly bike shop and making my selection with their advice. The ultimate internet bike will not be able to compete with getting the attention of a local mechanic. Most of the local guys will also take pride in the bike that they sold you and give you free service for the small jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8014" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T12:20:29.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17760" CreationDate="2013-09-24T12:28:30.527" Score="10" ViewCount="7475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently storing my bike in a repair stand where it hangs by the seatpost. I was wondering if this might not be ideal and that the prolonged hanging might put too much stress on the bike and that I should instead store it standing on the floor. Does this way of storing the bike pose any chance of damaging the bike compared to storing it standing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T16:43:22.880" Title="Is it harmful to store a bike in a repair stand when held by the seatpost?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17759" CreationDate="2013-09-24T12:34:24.777" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that this should be a problem. The force that is transferred through the seatpost to the bike when you sit on it and ride some bumpy road is vastly more than the stress that your bike might get from hanging on the bike stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-09-24T14:36:19.627" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T14:36:19.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-24T13:14:50.823" Score="1" ViewCount="1876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am talking about absolutely dirt cheap components which are non-branded. In terms of number of kilometres how long do they last? The bicycle is ridden on city and country roads and maintained regularly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8225" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T17:47:34.397" Title="How long does a shifter, rear mech and front mech last?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17759" CreationDate="2013-09-24T14:28:55.813" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might even be better than standing it on the same patch of tyres, if it's not being ridden at all, especially if you're not checking the tyre pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T14:28:55.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2644" CreationDate="2013-09-24T14:47:35.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Static fork. The are both cheep and low-maintenance. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12450/badly-rusted-suspension-fork&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; what happens to a low-end &lt;strong&gt;suspension&lt;/strong&gt; fork, after being left for a winter in the rain &amp;amp; snow (my workplace had not garage/bike shelter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T14:47:35.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-24T14:47:45.937" Score="4" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently helping a friend build a bike from scratch, and one of the first things he did was to inspect the hub to check that the wheel was rotating smoothly. He was adjusting the cone and lock nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How large (or small) of an efficiency boost do you see from such adjustments? I'm a commuter using a single-speed daily -- if I were to rebuild my hub and do the same adjustments, would I see a significant improvement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the newbie question! Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8227" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T03:11:24.470" Title="Does rebuilding a hub increase efficiency?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17761" CreationDate="2013-09-24T15:38:09.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the comments have stated, wear is going to depend on a variety of factors. If you maintain your equipment it can last for years. Generally speaking, parts will fail in order of material strength and usage. Jockey wheels on the rear derailleur become rounded as they are made of synthetic materials such as plastic that wear much quicker than metal. Next up are the cables and hoses connecting everything (technically you didn't ask about this, but they run into all the parts). Fine parts, such as the springs/tensioners in the derailleurs will also be susceptible to mud and grime much faster than the stainless cages. A shifter would probably be the last to go as it's action is fairly well contained within the shifter assembly and isn't really prone to wearing out as quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important consideration is setup. If the cables are too tight or there's a misalignment and something is rubbing, it's obviously going to wear much quicker. If you follow the manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedule and regularly clean all the parts after riding in the rain, mud, or dust, you should be able to enjoy a long life on even bargain bin parts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T15:38:09.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17777" CreationDate="2013-09-24T16:29:58.790" Score="7" ViewCount="2232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Jamis Citizen 2 Step through (2013 or 14 maybe) which has a braze-on on the underside of the seat stay near the brake studs.  Just one braze on each side.  I'm curious as to what the intent is and what opportunities they enable.  I already mounted rack and fenders so I'm not talking about the brazes near the seat tube.  In the photo behind the link look closely and see the braze-on just on the inside of the back wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applications/JamisBikes/MyJamis/consumer/bike.html?year=2014&amp;amp;model=Citizen%202%20Femme&amp;amp;cat_grp=fem_11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applications/JamisBikes/MyJamis/consumer/bike.html?year=2014&amp;amp;model=Citizen%202%20Femme&amp;amp;cat_grp=fem_11&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applications/JamisBikes/MyJamis/consumer/images/fancy/14_citizen2step-thru_bl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.myjamis.com/SSP%20Applications/JamisBikes/MyJamis/consumer/images/fancy/14_citizen2step-thru_bl.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zoomed in photo highlighting the specific braze-on:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TWN9X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-09-24T18:19:38.677" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T11:32:49.503" Title="What is the purpose of a braze-on on the underside of seat stay?" Tags="&lt;braze-on&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17766" CreationDate="2013-09-24T17:12:52.217" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe those are for frame-mount rear racks. While some can attach to the seat post, others can attach to the frame. The link shows an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebagshop.com/salsa-alternator-rear-rack-p-3187.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikebagshop.com/salsa-alternator-rear-rack-p-3187.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5955" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T17:12:52.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-24T18:01:33.337" Score="1" ViewCount="528" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son's bike is 12 inch children bike with the John Deere tractor theme to it.  Aside from the paint, this line of kids bikes have some rather beefy, large square knobby tires.  As with any children's bike, the back tire needs replaced (due to rider and coaster brake).  I'm having trouble sourcing these tires and the only information the side wall is given me is &quot;Yida&quot;.  Here is a amazon link to the 16 inch version of this bike which has the same kind of tires on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0007WOHZA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/ERTL-John-Deere-Heavy-Bicycle/dp/B0007WOHZA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1380045299&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=16+inch+john+deere+bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I replaced the tires with standard off the shelf tires, I'm looking for some more information about the company and or the tire itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T04:04:20.207" Title="Source of John Deere line of children bicycle tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;children&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11037" CreationDate="2013-09-24T20:00:52.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/17259/1097&quot;&gt;France has such a law&lt;/a&gt; (1 metre in cities, 1.5 metres in the country). That safety margin is also applicable to passing pedestrians and animals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;France (and, &quot;much of Europe&quot;) also has a &quot;strict liability law&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikehub.co.uk/news/bike-to-work/strict-liability-too-contentious-says-transport-minister/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ref&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strict_liability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ref&lt;/a&gt;), IOW if there's an accident then it's up to the car-driver to prove that they're not negligent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T20:00:52.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17781" CreationDate="2013-09-24T20:57:01.153" Score="3" ViewCount="888" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically the title is the questions, but to repeat is there a bike weight limit for riders who belong to a national association such as USAC, but are not riding for UCI points or registered with UCI? Or is it the same as the UCI limit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T03:52:39.020" Title="Is there a minimum weight limit for mountain bikes for USAC riders who are not UCI?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17750" CreationDate="2013-09-24T20:58:55.907" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, you usually only need to remove one side of the tire if you're just fixing a puncture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the tire isn't fully deflated, let all the rest of the air out. It'll make your life easier. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using your hands, grip the tire near the valve and wiggle it a bit to loosen the bead up from the rim. Work your way around the tire, repeating this process until you get back to the valve. If you've done this and step 1 properly, the tire should be loosely flopping around inside of the rim. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab three tire levers. You can do the job with less, but it's harder. I've never needed four. The ones that will get tire off most easily will have a hook one one end, like these: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RHfQB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tools Tire levers&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert one tire lever underneath the bead just above the spoke that is most directly &lt;em&gt;opposite&lt;/em&gt; of the valve. The tire will be a little looser (more loose?) directly across from the valve and thus, easier to remove. Pry it up and hook the other end of the lever on a spoke. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check to make sure that you've only got one side of the bead under the lever. If you've got both sides of the bead, the rest will be somewhere between very difficult and impossible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat step four on the spoke to the right of the one you just hooked, and then the spoke on the left. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point, the tire bead may be loose enough that some of the tire levers fall off. If so, great. Pry it the rest of the way off with your finger. If none of the levers has fallen out, it's ok. You just have a tire that fits a bit more tightly. You should still be able to get your finger in just to the outside of your three spokes and slide it along to pry the tire off. As I mentioned before, I have never had to use a fourth lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By now, you should have the bead completely removed on one side. You can remove the tube by reaching into the tire opposite of the valve and just pulling it out. You'll reach a point where the valve is the only thing holding it in place. Push the tire out of the way and remove the valve. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you''d like to completely remove the tire, you'll be able to just yank it off the rest of the way with a firm grip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps above will work on any tire. Skinny, hard case, non-foldable tires tend to be the hardest to get off. Fatties that are foldable can often be removed with nothing more than a good yank. If you have the option, it's still better to do it with tire levers though so you don't risk pulling too hard and damaging the tube. Tires inbetween those ranges tend to vary in difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T20:41:31.193" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T20:41:31.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17743" CreationDate="2013-09-24T22:26:33.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good plastic levers are wide, made of hard but resilient plastic and work well. Being wide means they are stronger than a narrow plastic lever without being thicker (which would make them harder to push under the bead). The S-shaped hook on the end grips the bead well and the other side of the S hooks onto the rim, so the lever stays in place as you lift the bead. I use both these brands and don't really have a preference - there's a Schwalbe one on my keyring and Michelin ones in my toolkit. When I worked in a bike shop we used Michelin ones and they lasted for years of daily use. If you like the hook on the end, Schwalbe has that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8suK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;michelin tyre lever&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwVco.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;schwalbe tyre lever&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a wide range of poor plastic tyre levers available. Many are narrow but thick, making them hard to use, or lack the S-shape on the end making it hard to keep the lever correctly placed on the rim - as you pull the bead up the lever often slips toward the rim, making your leverage worse and often breaking the lever. The one pictured below is only slightly better than a metal screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uyel7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;generic tyre levers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal tyre levers are often similar to poor plastic ones, as above. They have the added problem that if you twist the lever as you're using it much of the force on the rim is applied at one side of the lever - effectively a point force. Since it's a hard steel lever applying force to a soft aluminium rim, you'll often dent the rim by doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are good metal levers available, for example Park make one (below). Note that it's about 20mm wide where it meets the rim, and it has the S shaped hook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FVNBr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park TL5C tyre lever&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience people often ask about tyre levers when the problem they're having is technique. So I've asked a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17750/whats-the-best-technique-for-removing-a-tyre-from-the-rim&quot;&gt;question about that&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T22:47:54.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17766" CreationDate="2013-09-24T22:27:31.543" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not positive, but I believe those are for a &lt;strong&gt;frame-mounted wheel lock&lt;/strong&gt;. These are locks that you mount to the frame in roughly that location that immobilize the rear wheel when locked. Typically they mount via the brake braze-ons or their own straps, but that location looks about right for a direct mount&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a fitted lock can be seen in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZ4OV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;AXA lock on Jamis&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of lock is convenient, but not especially secure, since a thief can always just pick up the bike and carry it off. Some do include a way to plug in a cable or chain in order to lock the bike up to something else, but those aren't especially secure, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-09-25T11:32:49.503" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T11:32:49.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-25T01:27:34.570" Score="2" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired an older blue Motobecane Mirage with a great frame and paint.  I have stripped it all down and salvaged everything I can (frame, front wheel, handlebars, front brake) but now I'm left with a quandary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of bottom bracket/crankset/rear wheel will I need?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is something bizarre about the bike so I've read but I can't find a solid answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8232" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T00:20:44.040" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:20:44.040" Title="Older Motobecane conversion" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;europe&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17764" CreationDate="2013-09-25T03:11:24.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a typical rebuild the increase in efficiency is negligible. Think about the leverage you have over the bearings on a rotating wheel- it's pretty substantial compared to the friction of the bearings, even if they're not in perfect shape. The bearings would have to be destroyed for it to make a significant difference, and if the bearings are destroyed it's likely that the hub would be too, at which point a rebuild is moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T03:11:24.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17759" CreationDate="2013-09-25T03:17:32.880" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, not a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stress on non-moving components comes from repeated cycles of loading and unloading, not from static force. As others have pointed out, keeping the tires unweighted might help lengthen their life in storage, though it should make no difference with the bearings since they're metal on metal with no movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing you'd need to watch out for is over tightening the clamp around the seatpost, although this has nothing to do with the amount of time that it sits. If you clamp it too tight the damage is done in an instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-09-25T17:01:52.123" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T17:01:52.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17774" CreationDate="2013-09-25T03:52:39.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that UCI and USAC use the same minimum weight limit for bikes, but for USAC this only applies in certain circumstances. Taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/USACWeb/forms/uci/UCIBicycleRegulations.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this document from USAC&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles must meet current UCI technical regulations at&#xA;events that select 17-18, U23 an&#xA;d elite riders for international&#xA;competition or national teams. A&#xA;ll bicycles used in Federation&#xA;National Championship (for age&#xA;17 and older riders) and NRC&#xA;races must comply with&#xA;the current UCI regulations&#xA;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, if the event you're racing in is not a qualifier for an international event or for a spot on the national team you can disregard the weight restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, should one of the above situations be applicable to you, my understanding is that the minimum weight for your mountain bike is the same as it is for your road bike, which is 6.8kg/14.99lbs. However, I must admit that I could not find a black and white answer to confirm this assertion. I think this is largely due to the fact that the nature of mountain bikes is self limiting in terms of this restriction. Unless you have something especially exotic in your stable you're not going to even approach the minimum weight that is explicitly defined for road, track, timetrial, and cyclocross bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T03:52:39.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17771" CreationDate="2013-09-25T04:04:20.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very inexpensive rebranded bike with very inexpensive tires which you can't source individually. Nothing wrong with that given that it's a child's bike, but that is the situation. Your chances of finding that exact tire are slim, and there's no really compelling reason for you to hunt it down anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The product you can get off the shelf is going to be at least as good and likely better. There's no issue with mixing and matching different tread patterns front and rear beyond aesthetics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T04:04:20.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17693" CreationDate="2013-09-25T08:23:06.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I experienced the exact same issue as you when I install fresh cables for my mtb. What I did was to tension up the cable for my rear d via the barrel adjuster, making sure to check for correct shifting on all cogs. Follow by re-adjusting the limit screws on the rear d. This solved my skipping issue. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8236" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T08:23:06.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2013-09-25T22:11:19.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was faced with a similar situation about two years ago. I decided to go 2nd hand aluminum. The reason was that I didn't want to spend too much before I really knew what I wanted. There are several different types of road bicycle set-ups. &#xA;This is what I didn't know:&#xA;  Will I want to ride long distances (100+ miles) or sprint races (30-40 miles) or just regular rides with friends (a couple of hours here and there). Each of these bikes would have a different set-up, material and geometry. &#xA;  Will I ride a lot of hills?  Would a compact crank or regular crank be better to my riding style?&#xA;Buy a used, but decent condition al bike. After 2000km, you'll have a good idea of what type of bicycle you want to spend real money on, and you'll be able to sell the current one for very little loss. If you don't sell it, then you have a winter trainer for use inside. And in the all too familiar case that you buy the bike and rarely use it, you didn't spend 1500 to 2000 on something that just takes up room in your garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8239" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T22:11:19.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2013-09-26T00:14:35.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Cleveland, Ohio&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All buses have racks for 2-3 bikes.&#xA;The RTA (trains) permit bikes, based on operator discretion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riderta.com/racknroll&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.riderta.com/racknroll&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7395" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T00:14:35.607" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-26T00:14:35.607" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-26T01:22:48.667" Score="10" ViewCount="38405" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's one size of bolt that's used all over modern bikes: water bottle mounts and the braze-ons for racks leap to mind. Whenever I need a few, I take one to the hardware store and sift through the boxes of bolts until I find one that matches. I foolishly never write the size down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What size are they? I'm only concerned with the width and the threads, not the heads or the length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2021-01-20T02:11:17.000" Title="What size are the screws used for water bottle mounts etc?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17814" CreationDate="2013-09-26T01:27:08.340" Score="9" ViewCount="11048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard somewhere (I don't remember where) once that a seat post clamp should be oriented with the gap at the front of the seat tube, opposite of the gap in the top of the seat tube. The logic behind this was that it supposedly exerts more equal pressure around the entire seatpost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've noticed that bikes off the rack are almost always sold the other way around, with the two gaps on top of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it really matter? Is one way better than the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2021-05-13T10:13:11.913" Title="Which way should a seat post clamp be oriented?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;clamp&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17786" CreationDate="2013-09-26T01:53:15.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common sizes of allen screws for bikes are 4, 5, and 6mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's even &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/3-way-hex-wrench-aws-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a common bike tool&lt;/a&gt; that will fit in all three. In my experience, most racks use 5mm screws, but some do use 4 or 6mm screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allen screws are generally used because flathead screws take longer to turn as the head slips easily, and phillips head screws strip easily. (I've heard that allen screws also work well with torque wrenches, but I can not verify this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-09-30T15:04:57.833" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T15:04:57.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17787" CreationDate="2013-09-26T05:29:28.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to a forumer working in bike building industry (SUNN, France), mounting the seat post clamp with its gap on top of the seat tube gap is important to ensure an equal and secure gripping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6727" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T13:32:58.397" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T13:32:58.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17786" CreationDate="2013-09-26T07:32:42.233" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking the answer should be M4, M5 or M6.  This specifies the threading as well* (M4x0.7, M5x0.8 and M6x1 is implied, where the thread is given in mm/turn).  The hex key for turning them will also have a size in mm, always smaller than the diameter, by how much depends on the head shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say M5 are the most common, based on a very small sample size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*There are technically fine and extra fine metric threads, but you won't find them on a bike or in a hardware store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T07:32:42.233" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2013-09-26T08:46:52.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes can go on all trains except the high-speed trains (though I've heard of exceptions to the latter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; since 2015, bikes are officially allowed on the Renfe highspeed trains for free if they're packed up in a bag and no more than 120cm x 90cm x 40cm.  Some trains may have a luggage van and then they'll want you to put it in the luggage van, but if theres no luggage van you'll just have to squeeze it into the corridor or something, unless you've got it small enough to fit on the luggage racks (and they're not full of luggage already)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were once told our bikes couldn't be carried on a very small local train, but our Spanish wasn't good enough to understand why!  (so we went by bus instead)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bus travel is very popular in Spain, because its cheap and they go everywhere. Intercity busses are coaches, with loads of space in the hold underneath.  We had no problem taking our mountainbikes on ALSA buses in Andalucia, but you MUST have them in a bag, with the front wheel removed to make them more compact and to protect other people's luggage from oil etc. Bikes are classified as outsize luggage, so you have to buy a ticket but this was typically about 5euros for each bike on a journey of several hours.  Our &quot;bag&quot; was bought locally for a few euros and consisted of a thin cover designed for covering motorbikes strapped up with a roll of parcel tape! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T22:10:59.720" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T22:10:59.720" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-26T08:46:52.840" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-26T08:55:28.290" Score="9" ViewCount="1077" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just purchased an old tandem, but don't know the make or year.&#xA;Can anyone help me to identify it.&#xA;The frame is steel and it has a frame number of 452599.&#xA;There are no decals fitted but I attach a photo of the front tube casting where a decal was probably fitted to indicate the make.&#xA;The wheels/rims are 26&quot; x 1.3/8&quot; and the rear has a Dunlop Motorette tyre fitted (still holding air).&#xA;The front handlebar has &quot;Il Primo Milano&quot; on it.&#xA;The hubs/brakes are Sturmey Archer (Front has a number 10 5 6 on it)&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/okS5i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tandem Picture 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;There are four sprockets on the back hub.&#xA;The derailleur is a Benelux Super 60&#xA;The seats are marked Iscaselle.&#xA;From what I have been able to look up on the derailleur, it suggests it could be 1950's or 1960's but that is all I have found.&#xA;Many Thanks![Frame Number&#xA;!&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDrYA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frame&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;!&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/baL4C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Derailleur![Tandem 2&#xA;]&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/baL4C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8242" LastEditorUserId="8216" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T03:10:32.130" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T14:27:21.787" Title="Help please to identify my Tandem" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2013-09-26T09:08:54.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Toulouse, France&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes are allowed in the tram, except during rush hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes are also allowed in the suburban train, including during rush hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T09:08:54.800" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-26T09:08:54.800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18468" CreationDate="2013-09-26T09:24:50.943" Score="3" ViewCount="1331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a new aluminum &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ferrini-bikes.com/articolo/?ID=90&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTB frame&lt;/a&gt;. The headset is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17119/dont-integrated-headsets-wear-out-ruining-the-frame&quot;&gt;standard&lt;/a&gt; &quot;NECO, 142, 1-1/8” AHEAD&quot;. The BB is ... I'm not sure, but is internal and threaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How do I determine if I need to face or ream my new frame, before pressing in headset cups and installing the BB?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T19:47:57.383" Title="Do I need to face my new frame?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-26T10:41:08.250" Score="10" ViewCount="1062" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17420/any-alternative-use-for-old-mountain-bike-tyres-and-inner-tube&quot;&gt;Any alternative use for old mountain bike tyres and inner tube?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my frame has a large crack near the headtube and I am replacing it. Could I use the frame in any other way? E.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give it away for recycling, get a few beers with the money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make vases from the tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make shot glasses from the tubes (e.g. with wooden bottoms)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;beat people with it (!?!? one friend proposed this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything more sensible? Maybe I could make some &lt;strong&gt;tool&lt;/strong&gt; or stand out of the material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T09:43:52.050" Title="Alternative uses for an aluminum MTB frame" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2013-09-26T11:32:45.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of Metro Transit buses have a fold-down rack on the front that will hold up to 2 bikes, and most of the time they seem to be empty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halifax.ca/metrotransit/MetroLinkBikeRackGuide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guide to using the racks&lt;/a&gt;, and the routes with bike racks can be identified on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halifax.ca/metrotransit/Schedules/index.asp#bus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;transit schedules&lt;/a&gt; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also take your bike on either of the Dartmouth-Halifax &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halifax.ca/metrotransit/ferries.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;harbour ferries&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7636" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T11:32:45.380" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-26T11:32:45.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17796" CreationDate="2013-09-26T11:49:07.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about a similar question for my old bike. This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=repurpose%20bicycle%20frame&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&amp;amp;hs=JlV&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla%3aen-US%3aofficial&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=YRdEUo6_EeaO7Aa22IHACw&amp;amp;ved=0CDMQsAQ&amp;amp;biw=1378&amp;amp;bih=813&amp;amp;dpr=1&quot;&gt;google image search&lt;/a&gt; might give some inspiration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More people seem to have the idea to do something with their old bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bicycle art at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inspirationgreen.com/bicycle-art.html&quot;&gt;Inspiration green&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thechurchofcycling.tumblr.com/post/45773461862/thecyclingkit-brilliant&quot;&gt;The church of cycling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though most re-use seems to focus on the parts that wear out quicker (tires, tubes, chains, sprockets, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T11:49:07.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17796" CreationDate="2013-09-26T12:02:40.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you need a bike hanging bracket, or even a wall mounted work stand?  The front triangle as in the church of cycling lamp image suggests how, and old tubes could be used to give it some grip and prevent it damaging a bike hung from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or how about a single wheel bike trailer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T12:02:40.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2013-09-26T12:31:04.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dayton, Ohio&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.i-riderta.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;RTA&quot;&gt;RTA&lt;/a&gt; in Dayton and surrounding communities have bike racks on the front of the busses.  However, they only hold 2 bikes and require the rider to fold and unfold the rack as needed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.miamivalleytrails.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Miami Valley Bike Trails&quot;&gt;Miami Valley Bike Trails&lt;/a&gt; and the spirit of the Wright Brothers, you don't really need RTA to get to most places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T12:31:04.257" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-26T12:31:04.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17802" CreationDate="2013-09-26T12:59:11.477" Score="1" ViewCount="1827" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my disc brakes I realized the barrel cable adjuster has its thread broken and most of it is stuck inside the calliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5iyzb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Disc brake with tuning barrel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The picture is not &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; brake but they are quite similar: the &lt;em&gt;black&lt;/em&gt; barrel thread is broken and a part of it is stuck in the silver-y thing on the calliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the support of the manufacturer and they say the spare part is not sold separately (and I don't know anyway how to remove the broken bit from the calliper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I just live without it, but it is quite neat to fine tune the brake cable length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options? Are there some &quot;standalone&quot; barrels that don't require to be screwed in the calliper? that could maybe be directly inlined in the housing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I show it to my LBS and hope him to have some more or less compatible part in his magical drawers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I buy a new calliper (&amp;lt;-- yes, that's overkill,.. but well...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T22:33:52.870" Title="How to compensate broken thread in brake barrel adjuster?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17801" CreationDate="2013-09-26T13:16:22.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would require replacing your brake cable housing (and you may want to replace the cable at the same time) but there are brake cables with inline barrel adjusters. In these, the barrel adjuster is usually situated somewhere between the brake lever, and the braze-on at the front of the bike. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=62582&amp;amp;category=7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;They look something like this&lt;/a&gt; and are sold by themselves, or often included with the cable housing.  As your local bike shop and they should be able to get you something that will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T13:16:22.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17801" CreationDate="2013-09-26T13:19:36.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The adjuster on the picture looks like a quite standard adjuster as it is also used on shifters, derailleurs and the like. If you have such a part flying around that is no longer needed you could see if you can take the adjuster from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T13:19:36.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17787" CreationDate="2013-09-26T14:00:43.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aligning the gaps will allow the clamp to compress the tube a little better, therefore reducing the amount of tension needed from the clamp to hold the seat post in. And less tension means a longer life for your seat post clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there's the issue of which way your clamp lever faces if you use a quick release clamp. Most have it facing backwards so it doesn't interfere with clothing and doesn't catch on anything while riding. But, with something this small and utilitarian, I think you can put it any way that keeps your seat post from falling and it's probably OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T14:00:43.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2013-09-26T14:35:39.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Germany&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Local trains&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Deutsche Bahn, local trains (&quot;Nahverkehrszüge&quot;) usually carry bikes. Many trains have special open areas for big objects like prams, bicycles and wheelchairs (&quot;Mehrzweckabteil&quot;); in others bicycles may be put into the corridors. Sometimes bikes are not allowed during peak times, like weekday morning and afternoon; this depends on operator and type of train.&#xA;You may be denied boarding if there is not enough space for the bike(s); this is not unlikely to happen for larger groups, during peak times and on trains with little space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Long-distance trains&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On long-distance trains, bicycles are only allowed with a reservation, and only on trains which have bicycle compartments (which most do not have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Buses, trams and subways&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again this depends on the region and operator. Usually bikes are only allowed outside peak times, and only one or two bikes per bus/carriage, because of space restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T14:35:39.953" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-26T14:35:39.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-26T17:03:03.327" Score="2" ViewCount="3791" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new Schwinn Cutter, but my brakes are constantly squeaking when I apply them. It has nothing to do with weather as I haven't taken it out in the rain. The rims on the bike do have some colored trim, but I'm not sure if that's the reason. Any ideas on reducing the break squeaking as it's embarrassing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow up: these are not disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8244" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T20:33:56.880" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T20:33:56.880" Title="New Bicycle - Brakes Squeak" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-09-30T20:02:28.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-26T17:38:24.013" Score="7" ViewCount="5614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced my clip-in pedals(SPD) with regular flat pedals on my commuter cycle with the hope to avoid wearing shoes with cleats on my commute. I want to wear my water proof boots to work when cycling. The problem I face is that my feet are not positioned properly, I usually find that one foot is farther or behind the other foot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I considered adding a cage on the flat pedals but I cannot fit my boots in the toe clip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I tried booties on my cleated shoes with clip-in spd pedals, but it is too much effort for commuting, the booties wear out fairly quickly due to frequent stops/walking and I feel that cleated shoes/booties are good for long rides on the weekend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedals with SPD on one side and flat on the other still poses the same problem, alignment of foot when using the flat side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a solution where I can wear normal shoes/sandals/boots that is weather-appropriate  when I am commuting to work. I think a vast majority of cyclists use regular flat pedals/ flat pedals with toe cages. Is there a trick/tip to align both feet properly on pedals or should I give up hope on being able to wear non-cleated shoes and go back to clip-in spd pedals? Or do I just need more practice with flat pedals? Are there other riders who have this problem? I did ride a mountain bike with flat pedals during my high school days but never thought about foot alignment, but back then I had never used clip-in pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T06:17:35.740" Title="How to properly position foot on flat pedals?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17807" CreationDate="2013-09-26T19:40:18.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a mindfulness technique rather than a product, but when riding on flat pedals I consciously focus on keeping the balls of my feet over the pedal spindles. (I also resist the temptation, every time I see someone pushing flat pedals with their heels, to yell out &quot;You're doing it wrong!&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8162" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-09-26T20:05:33.733" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T20:05:33.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17807" CreationDate="2013-09-26T19:53:54.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride flats for everything: city, XC, DH, DJ. Depending on what you want to do you can move your feet appropriately. I find that for XC and commuting types of riding moving my feet back so the balls of my feet are slightly forward of the axle/spindle gives me the best power transfer. If I want more stability I move my feet forward so the arch of my foot is firmly across the spindle so I have more foot on the pedal. Moving your feet inboard (towards the cranks) can increase control and moving outward can give more clearance to your legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as getting the same spot every time: practice! Did you nail a clip-in perfectly on your first few rides? Probably not, same goes for flats, the more you ride that way, the quicker you'll teach your body where the foot goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T19:53:54.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17801" CreationDate="2013-09-26T20:35:56.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often times you can remove the broken piece with a drill bit. Remove the cable from the adjuster. Soak the threaded hole on both sides with penetrating oil,(Liquid Wrench, Sea Foam, PB Blaster) avoid WD-40 or regular oils as they don't do a good job of freeing up frozen fittings. Start with a drill bit slightly smaller than the threaded hole. Drill at a slow speed. As you drill through the broken piece the drill bit will often grab the broken piece and screw it out through the opening on the other side. If this fails then you will need to get an EZ-Out Screw extractor as @Daniel R Hicks has suggested. If you are not familiar with using a screw extractor be very careful not to break the extractor by over twisting it. This a common problem with the small extractors that you will be using. They are made of very hard steel and cannot be easily drilled out if you break it off in the hole. I am not sure if they are all the same but my Jagwire derailleur inline adjusters have very limited adjustment. They are more of a fine tuner than gross adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2013-09-26T22:33:52.870" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T22:33:52.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17815" CreationDate="2013-09-26T21:49:37.543" Score="5" ViewCount="1491" Body="&lt;p&gt;My road bike is aluminum with a carbon rear triangle.  The carbon rear slides into the aluminum, and I believe was bonded with some sort of epoxy.  The pieces have begun to separate after 2.5 years and the company will not warranty the frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to repair this by inserting epoxy into the gap and sliding the carbon back in place?  What sort of precautions should I take, and epoxy should I use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can pull the carbon out further, should I sand the two surfaces before re-bonding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8112" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T09:15:26.287" Title="Repairing Carbon / Aluminum frame" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2013-09-26T22:05:10.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Catrike 700 and also owned a high end upright road bicycle with CF tubular rims, etc. and a Powertap wheel.  The Powertap wheel can be mounted on the trike to capture heart rate, wattage, speed, etc.  I've ridden the trike over 200 miles and focused on fitting for half that distance (crank length, Q factor, seating position, arm placement, etc.) to optimize performance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trike overall is slower.  It's a barge on climbs (33 lbs vs 16 lbs for my bike) and rolling resistance of extra bearing set and contact patch for third wheel cannot be ignored.  My position is among the most aggressive at 25 degrees and coast down also speaks volumes - close to 100 feet more coast down on the bike than the trike, but on the bike I really made myself small, tucked in knees, elbows, leaned over uncomfortably, but the frontal area really shrunk.  On the trike you're stuck where you are.  The only time the trike really shined was on the descent.  40+ mph down moderate hills was easy, whereas on the bike it was next to impossible.  Just remember you have to climb back up some time.  I bought the trike due to a dissolving hip joint, otherwise I would have kept my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8248" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-09-28T17:26:31.880" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T17:26:31.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17787" CreationDate="2013-09-26T22:35:46.523" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, for an aluminum post you align the gaps. For a carbon post you turn the clamp 180 degrees from the gap in the seattube to minimize the chance of crimping the seatpost. Some manufacturers have their own recommendations, but they're typically in line with what the aforementioned guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T17:31:55.567" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T17:31:55.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17812" CreationDate="2013-09-26T23:19:04.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am posting this as an answer but it is more of a long comment. The information I have is from the place I trust to do carbon repairs. According to Hot Tubes aluminum and the carbon resin react. The aluminum must be sealed to get a good bond. The materials are not your hardware grade epoxy. If we were talking about a fishing rod or something that would not cause serious injury in the event of failure I would say go for and try to fix it yourself. My thought is there is enough information and the resulting horror stories of catastrophic frame/component failure to warrant at least getting a professional opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T23:19:04.367" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17823" CreationDate="2013-09-27T02:31:33.050" Score="10" ViewCount="15328" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/road/technologies/powerlock&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sram.com/sram/road/technologies/powerlock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;SRAM chain engineers developed PowerLock as a tool free, sure and consistent way to connect our 10 speed chains. While PL does not require special tools for install, the especially tight tolerances of 10 Speed drive trains mandated that each PowerLock is good for a one-time application only.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-pc-1051-chain&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-pc-1051-chain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SRAM PC-1051 Chain is compatible with both SRAM and Shimano 10-speed drivetrains. Please note that while the PowerLock installation can be done tool-free, it's recommended to be used only once due to the extremely close tolerances required by the narrow 10-speed design. So if you must break your chain for maintenance reasons, a new 10-speed PowerLock link will be required to reassemble it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why is this the case?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have people hear &lt;em&gt;observed&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;seen&lt;/em&gt; tests about what happens if you re-use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/master-link-pliers-mlp-1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool Master Link Pliers&lt;/a&gt; to remove master links. I have a hard time believing that doing it that way stresses it significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-mastering-master-links-36757/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-mastering-master-links-36757/&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;According to SRAM, the ridge that joins the two plates of the PowerLock together can be damaged when unlocking it, increasing the risk of failure if reused. So yes, if you choose to reuse a PowerLock there is an increased likelihood of if failing, according to SRAM.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a number of professional and team mechanics who routinely reuse PowerLocks on their own bikes, but replace them with a new link when dealing with a customer or athlete, so it’s a bit of “do as I say, not as I do.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4552" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T10:35:42.953" Title="Reusing SRAM 10 Speed PowerLock?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;master-link&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17806" CreationDate="2013-09-27T04:07:08.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the new bike to the bike shop where you purchased it and ask for the brake pads to be adjusted. They may need some break in time/miles, but usually an adjustment of the brake pads so that the front of the pad makes contact with the wheel first, will keep the pads from squealing when used. We're talking millimeters in difference...hardly noticeable at all with the front of the brake pad being closer to the wheel. This reduces the vibration you're hearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T04:07:08.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17830" CreationDate="2013-09-27T15:08:07.960" Score="2" ViewCount="1451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using Hayes CX-5 Mechanical Disc brakes with Avid The G2 CleanSweep Rotors on my cross bike.  I believe the Pads that come stock with Hayes CX-5 brakes are semi-metallic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm experiening uneven braking, it's really a pain to feather my braking to slow down because of this.  It seems that the brakes engage on parts of the rotor, but seems to slide more freely over other sections. I wind up over braking to slow because of this.  The rotors are a month or so old and do not appear to be visibly bent at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is causing this?  How can I even out the performance of my braking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T04:19:41.633" Title="Uneven Disc Brake performance" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17787" CreationDate="2013-09-27T18:10:00.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My two cents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you align the gap in the tube with the gap in the clamp, the grip will be much stronger. You'll need less force in the lever to hold the seatpost in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you keep them counter-aligned, you'll exert considerably less pressure, and there is a chance that the pressure will be &quot;more evenly&quot; distributed, although I don't &quot;feel&quot; it to be necessarily like this, since it is only the frame itself that actually deforms to grip the seatpost, and I think it tends do deform the same way on both cases (a lot of common-sense here, that would need experimental data to be totally sure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be: use first option UNLESS you have reasons not to do so. Such reasons could be: sensitive seatpost (carbon fiber, delicate metals), or a tendency from the clamp to leave marks/grooves in the seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T18:10:00.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2013-09-27T18:10:55.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Dresden, Germany&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Public transport is great for bikes here. You can take your bike on any bus, train, or tram.&#xA;However, you do have to purchase a concession ticket for the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8216" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T18:10:55.123" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-09-27T18:10:55.123" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17807" CreationDate="2013-09-27T18:47:39.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;James Wilson, who provides mountain bike specific strength training coaching, has made a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikejames.com/strength/shoe-pedal-and-foot-placement-tips-for-flat-pedals-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blog post and video&lt;/a&gt; describing how to get a good foot placement on a flat pedal. He has already explained it well, so it's best just to quote him:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) Foot Placement: The first thing that you will notice on flat pedals is that your feet naturally go to a mid-foot position where the ball of the foot is placed in front of the pedal axle. This is much different than the foot position where most clipless pedals want to put you, which is with the ball of the foot directly over the axle. However, having the ball of the foot in front of the axle is actually a more natural and, one could argue, better position for your foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From a functional movement point of view, trying to place the ball of&#xA;  your foot directly on top of the pedal axle is not the best position&#xA;  for your foot to be whether you are on flats or clipless pedals.&#xA;  Driving through the ball of the foot is what you want to do when you&#xA;  are propelling your center of gravity forward – like when running or &#xA;  jumping – but this is not what is happening when we pedal out bikes.&#xA;  When pedaling you are driving the pedals away from you, much like when&#xA;  you squat or deadlift, and that type of leg drive is much better&#xA;  delivered from a more mid-foot position. This more mid-foot position&#xA;  also allows improved recruitment of the hips during the pedal stroke,&#xA;  especially when standing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T18:47:39.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17816" CreationDate="2013-09-27T19:00:55.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not so much that reusing the link increases the chance that the pins or plates that the Powerlock is made up of will fail, but rather that it increases the chance that the link will come apart the same way it was put together. Each time you remove that link it wears down the &quot;ridge&quot; that snaps the pins in place on their opposing plates. This increases the chance that the link can undo itself in unusual circumstances. It may also slightly increase the chance of the link failing in the case of shifting under heavy load, which should be avoided anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRAMs 9 speed quick links were notorious for coming apart on the trail as they are reusable- some of this had to do with improper removal which damaged the relief that held the pins in place. It's probably easier for the company to just say &quot;don't do it&quot; than to say &quot;do it this way&quot; and folks don't adhere to the manufacturer's recommendations, leading to failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR version- if you only remove the link on occasion, its good for the life of the chain. Don't reuse an old quick link on a new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T19:00:55.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17807" CreationDate="2013-09-27T21:08:18.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PIN PEDALS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I abandoned my SPD pedals after breaking my ankle, I had the same problem you faced, my feet slid around on the pedals and I could not keep my feet positioned. As others have mentioned, practice helps and your placement will improve as you consciously work on it about it. Then I recently discovered flat 'pin' pedals and now my feet stay planted where ever I put them. There are a number of different styles with both set screws and 'smooth pins' on the pedal.  I purchased a pair of xpedo's for my touring bike and plan to add them to our tandem over the winter.  I feel my pedal problems are history with these new pin pedals whether I am riding with biking shoes, walking shoes or my Keen sandals my feet stay put and starting and stopping is effortless.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zsQmN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T21:08:18.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17737" CreationDate="2013-09-27T22:16:20.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One word: torque. Also known as lever arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case the lever arm is the difference in the radii of the crank arm (to which the pedal is attached) and the sprocket. We riders have a limited amount of force that we can apply to the pedals, creating a torque in the crank arm. Our inertia creates an opposing force via the chain in the selected gear ring. With sufficient level arm differences, our human force can generate torque that may overcome the material strength of the chain ring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in order to withstand the increased torque, the smallest chainring is typically made of the stronger material, oftentimes steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: moderators requested an expansion. Here it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=bDF-uoUmttUC&amp;amp;pg=SA18-PA4&amp;amp;lpg=SA18-PA4&amp;amp;dq=feynman%20lectures%20torque&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=pUhqSH-lop&amp;amp;sig=1zaJ688ko_XMjFtbPJn7W763PIo&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=GJ3rU7iIO5XqoATmtYKgAQ&amp;amp;ved=0CGEQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=feynman%20lectures%20torque&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Torque&lt;/a&gt; is a &quot;twisting force&quot;, which is exactly what we riders create when we pedal a bicycle. The amount of force that we apply to the pedals can be amplified by the length of the &quot;torque arm&quot; -- which is, in our case, the center-to-center length of the crank arms from the bottom bracket to the pedal(s). Also surrounding the same axis are the front chain sprockets. The difference between our pedaling radius and the sprocket radius is the effective &quot;torque arm&quot;, or &quot;mechanical advantage&quot;, for the given sprocket. As the mechanical advantage increases, so does the torque or twisting force that we generate from the pedals. We gain the maximum mechanical advantage when pedalling against the smallest radius sprocket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That summarizes our forces. Now a word about materials. Relatively speaking, steel is strong &amp;amp; heavy while aluminum is soft &amp;amp; light. However, alloys and various treatments modify those native characteristics, usually with added costs. The bottom line is a stress/strain analysis of the forces (torque) involved versus the material's inherent strength. And then there's the monetary budget, which influences one's available options and selections chosen. A review of candidate sprocket materials is far beyond the scope of this reply, or my present knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suffice to say, manufacturers will use the most cost-effective products for their target audience. That might mean different materials for the Tour de France teams, as opposed to what you &amp;amp; I can get from our local bicycle shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes down to sprockets for everyday riders, it comes down to torque. And the two least expensive materials that satisfy the necessary stress/strain resistance are aluminum alloys and steel alloys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the OP's term &quot;chro-mo&quot; refers to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/41xx_steel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chrome-molybdenum steel&lt;/a&gt;, also called chromoly steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8017" LastEditorUserId="8017" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T17:49:53.883" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T17:49:53.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17796" CreationDate="2013-09-27T23:53:11.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use as a dedicated truing stand.  While not adjustable, the fork could be used for front wheels, back for rear wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T23:53:11.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17829" CreationDate="2013-09-28T09:34:22.880" Score="9" ViewCount="100382" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has a deformation in the rear wheel, almost surely not due to the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point the tire has a &amp;quot;valley&amp;quot;, causing it to bump instead of rolling smoothly. I'd like to understand if I have to replace the tire and/or the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the tube and it seems alright, I put it on recently and since then the wheel has become wobbly though. Both tire and tube are 700x35 mm, and they should be the right ones for the bike, since the tire is the original one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I've &amp;quot;played&amp;quot; with the tire, deflating and re-inflating several times trying to get it seated properly. Now instead of a &amp;quot;depression&amp;quot; there is a sort of sideways deformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in this case the rim looks straight but I can't get the tire to sit right. I tried to put it in place in any way I could think, what am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;I've found the problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't notice it before, but the tyre was worn out on the side, and the supporting structure was deforming. I solved the issue by buying a new tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3374" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T22:34:41.343" Title="Deformed/uneven/bumpy wheel/tire/tube, how to diagnose or repair?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-28T10:50:28.120" Score="2" ViewCount="1805" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I get a replacement crankset gear for Dahon P8?  It is a 52 T with 5 screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufVmg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup crankset and gear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched shops here in Belgium, but they have only an expensive whole assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8258" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T20:42:17.840" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T23:27:30.130" Title="How to get a replacement crankset gear for Dahon P8?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17827" CreationDate="2013-09-28T10:51:41.230" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell from that video - a side view would have been more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you say it seems the rim is actually round in both planes - it doesn't wobble side to side &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; up and down as it rotates, so it's not that (but I can't see the rim in the video so I don't know for sure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is the tyre it will be either because the tyre is not seated properly, or it's defective/worn out. But that sort of dip is unusual for a worn out tyre - normally they bulge (then pop). If the tyre isn't seated properly you'll normally be able to see it when you look at the side of the tyre. Where the dip is the normal markings on the side of the tyre will dip in too, meaning the bead has been pulled in on the rim rather than being pushed out against the sidewall/braking surface. If you're lucky that will have happened because the tyre wasn't installed properly. This is probably only on one side of the wheel, so check both sides. If it's on both sides probably the tyre is the wrong size for the rim, or you may just be particularly unlucky and have a slightly oversize rim and a slightly undersize tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix, mostly deflate the tube, then work round pushing the bead in on the rim as though you were about to remove the tyre. Then pump the tyre back up slowly until the bead pops back against the rim. When this happens stop pumping, and make sure the bead has popped back all the way round. if not, work the tyre with your fingers where it hasn't popped - just squeeze the tyre in with your fingers. The movement should be enough to seat the bead properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if it's a size problem you will need to buy a new tyre. If the size should be right but isn't, try a different brand of tyre. Some manufacturers are known to make &quot;tight&quot; tyres (slightly undersize beads), others do the opposite. Be aware that it is sometimes possible to put a 700c tyre on a 27&quot; wheel (700c = ISO 622, 27&quot; = 630 or so. ISO is roughly diameter, so the difference in circumference is 25mm or about an inch). It's very, very difficult to do, and shouldn't be done at all. If you're unlucky, you have one of the weird size wheels that's almost a modern size. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown discusses wheel sizes here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is the tube it'll be slightly harder to detect. Tubes are not every strong compared to the tyre, but if you somehow tie a knot in the tube that will affect the shape of the tyre. The most common problems here are a twist, which basically turns the tube into one of those balloon animals; and getting folded back on itself. The fold usually happens when the bike is ridden with the tyre very under-inflated or flat. The whole tyre rotates slighting on the rim as you brake or pedal, but the value stops the tube rotating with it. Until it breaks off, anyway. So you get a stretched part of the tube, and the other side of the value all the slack collects and folds up. When you re-inflate the tyre there's wobble like in your video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I describe that first because it's easy to check and fix. Deflate the tyre, pop it off, and if there's a big lump of folded up tube next to the valve, there's your problem. Often you can tell just by deflating the tyre than pressing down around the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T10:51:41.230" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17819" CreationDate="2013-09-29T04:19:41.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say the rotors are relatively new. Have they been bedded in properly? The usual procedure is to get up to about 30km/h, brake hard until you almost stop, and repeat. You should feel the braking power picking up each time you do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bedding in process transfers some pad material to the rotors - this is what the pads grab, rather than the actual steel surface. It should be done any time rotors or pad compounds are changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T04:19:41.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17807" CreationDate="2013-09-29T06:17:35.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will point out two things Sheldon Brown has on his site - Keith Bontrager's &quot;Myth of KOPS&quot; and Sheldon has a page on Bicycling in Pain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short version: The general old guideline is position around the ball of the foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to go a little bit towards the arch cause its more comfortable for my geometry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/kops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/kops.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theres also a good thread on rec.bicycles.tech which is a bit long:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.bicycles.tech/nmXPJGOFMjo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.bicycles.tech/nmXPJGOFMjo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T06:17:35.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17837" CreationDate="2013-09-29T09:41:45.900" Score="3" ViewCount="4500" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I bled an Avid Elixir 1 after it had gone soft over the winter. I followed the directions in the Park Tools Big Blue Book completely, used an Avid bleed kit and opened a new bottle of DOT 5.1. The bleed went well and the lever had good pressure afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went out for a couple of hours and came home and thought the brakes seemed softer. I stood the bike on its rear tyre and pumped the brake 10 times and by the end the lever was against the grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked both plugs and they seemed to have a good seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what I could have done wrong or could be wrong with the brakes to allow significant air into the system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T13:07:24.710" Title="Air in hydraulic brakes after bleed" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17832" CreationDate="2013-09-29T10:36:41.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you stood the bike vertical, the hose could have been at the highest point of the reservoir. Any air in the top of the reservoir would have been introduced in to hose and caliper when you cycled the lever. I would rebleed the system and avoid cycling the lever when the bike is vertical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T10:36:41.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2013-09-29T21:56:06.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the winter, on sand, slush and icy roads, 3 wheels are safer and thus can be ridden faster than the upright. Plus I've seen mini-windsheilds on cat-trikes that are quite popular around here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding comfort (your rear) will be better on the recumbent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In good weather the recumbent will, all things being equal,be a little slower than the upright, but the all-weather aspects of commuting sounds like a real plus to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T21:56:06.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-09-29T23:36:56.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my mind/opinion, flats, cages and cleats (using terminology that should have been invented years ago...) have distinctly different purposes, and their strengths for each application should not necessarily be crossed over to other uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with flat pedals.&#xA;Flats come either with or without pins. (Here's on with pins. &lt;a href=&quot;http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/all-mountain/535342d1271127491-what-pedals-do-you-push-your-am-shimano-mx30-pedals-04.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/all-mountain/535342d1271127491-what-pedals-do-you-push-your-am-shimano-mx30-pedals-04.jpg&lt;/a&gt; I used these for several years with the longer pin set-up) Flats without pins are usually low end stock models such as the ones you might see on a kids bike. &#xA;By adding pins, flats develop an new purpose - the increased grip and hence control that they offer makes them ideal for intense cycling, such as free-riding, downhill, bmx or street trials to name a few. What makes them so good for these disciplines is the ease and speed of connection - put your foot on, and it grips. More importantly, releasing your foot from the pedal is achieved with ease. This enables speedy ejects in accidents or easy releases for hardcore bike tricks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cages, aka toe clips, straps... are in my mind mainly there to prevent accidental foot release that would lead to smashing your shin or calf. They are not particularly effective at transferring power on the upstroke, but can be used in this manner as well. The other use for cages is to adjust foot position in a kind of set-and-forget way. This is another reason they are so well suited to touring bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, cleats, aka clipless, SPD... These pedals offer a large degree of control and unparalleled power transfer in up and down strokes. This alone makes them ideal for road and race bikes. Nowadays, with xc riding and MTB racing gaining popularity, MTB cleat systems are becoming widely acceted. The benefits are the same, better control and power, but that comes at the price of &quot;bailability&quot;. Despite the learning curve, accidents still happen to masters, so it is a question that each person should address on their own terms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, choose whatever system works for your interests and riding style, and stick with it to see if you improve and make progress. Follow that, and it should be all good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T23:36:56.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17233" CreationDate="2013-09-30T07:11:51.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first part to note is how the derailleur is bent. Is the frame aluminum or steel? If the former, is it just the hangar bent? (steel bikes typically don't have a derailleur hanger)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cage is just bent, you can take it to your LBS and they have a little tool to put in so they can easily unbend it (or you can do this with an adjustable wrench at your own risk, though i don't recommend it for people without experience). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its just a hangar, you can spend the 5 dollars or whatever on a new hangar and be done wtih it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have to replace the derailleur, just get another shimano derailleur like a new tourney (these go for about 10 dollars) or acera unit - the rear derailleurs are pretty much all the same and the cheapest one will do in your case it seems (tourney again). Or check your LBS - they're likely to have a cheap one in their parts bin that fits. Then you can follow sheldon brown's advice to set the high/low limits and do adjustments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the derailleur went into the spokes, I'd also get the wheel checked out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T07:11:51.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17832" CreationDate="2013-09-30T10:55:47.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bleed was probably not perfect. It is normal. Pulling a perfect bleed is a bit hard for first timers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible reasons for a not perfect bleed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you did not fully reset the pistons before starting the procedure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you did not apply enough negative pressure and move oil from one syringe to another many times in order to remove all the air bubbles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you did not bleed the lever (push the lever all the way in and apply negative pressure on the syringe on the lever)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you introduced some air (and/or lost oil) between the time you removed the syringe and fitted the torx screw back in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you introduced air from the sirynge accidentaly (a bit rare)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to rebleed (not fully, but just enough to remove the air). Push oil from the bottom (caliper) using a 90% full syringe and pull from a 10% full syringe from above at the lever. While doing so, stop pushing from the bottom and continue pulling from above to apply negative pressure. You'll probably see 10-15 bubbles appearing at the top syringe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-09-30T13:07:24.710" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T13:07:24.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17840" CreationDate="2013-09-30T11:47:13.190" Score="2" ViewCount="737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am converting my 80s steel peugeot to a fixed gear. I have purchased most of the parts an had a wheel built onto a SS hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, SS hubs are narrower than road hubs - 120mm vs 130mm (although I think my bike is 126mm as it was a 6-speed). The axle on my new hub is plenty long enough to span the rear fork but the hub itself is too narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been to a local chain bike shop to see if they stock dedicated spacers but they can't help. I essentially need 2 3mm spacers to bridge fill the extra width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to sort this? I can try a LBS but would a 3mm nut that screws onto the axle suffice? If I can find such a thing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T17:05:49.607" Title="Fixed gear conversion - hub spacers" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17838" CreationDate="2013-09-30T17:05:49.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can just spring in the dropouts. Its only 3mm on each side, a steel frame will easily bend that much. Just put the wheel in place, then tighten up the nuts on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T17:05:49.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17828" CreationDate="2013-09-30T19:08:05.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any chainring that has the same bolt circle diameter (BCD) and the same number of bolts as your crank is compatible with your crank. The ever helpful Sheldon Brown has a page describing &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to measure your BCD&lt;/a&gt;.  The way you do it is dependent on how many bolts you have so I won't go into the details here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a chainring may be compatible with your crank, there are other problems you can run into...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your chain, you may or may not be able to use a chainring that was designed for a different chain, e.g., a 9-speed chainring with an 8-speed chain. Many people do this with success while many others have problems. It's probably easiest to just get one that you're sure matches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also may have problems going bigger or smaller than your current chainring. Whether or not this is the case depends on your front derailleur and the amount of clearance you have on your frame. Derailleurs have a minimum and maximum number of teeth they can accommodate. Check the specs on your derailleur to find out what these are. The frame clearance is a bit more guesswork. It's kind of hard for me to tell from the picture how much of an issue it would be, but if you're going to go bigger you just want to be sure that nothing's rubbing when the chain is on the ring. If you're dead set on a bigger ring, you might be able to get a little wiggle room through spacers or a longer bottom bracket spindle but it's usually not enough to be worth the hassle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Benzo points out in the comments, the chain guides also limit the size of chainring that you can use. Consult with your manual and/or an experienced technician to determine what sizes yours will accommodate. Or plan on replacing those as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T21:54:16.713" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T21:54:16.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17844" CreationDate="2013-09-30T22:29:33.877" Score="4" ViewCount="1244" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know the dust that's left on the rims' groove after a while, does it have any significance in braking or rim life? When washing the wheels I just realised that the dust must be coming from brake pads but couldn't figure out whether or not I should wash the wheels more often to keep it clean. Will I make the pads and rims wear out faster if I clean more often?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T22:45:19.223" Title="How brake pad dust/residue affect braking and rim life?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17843" CreationDate="2013-09-30T22:45:19.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the wheels regularly will probably help the life if the brakes, but most likely only modestly. The most important reason to clean the wheels is to remove the road dirt/grime that builds up and can wear on the pads faster, but the brake dust most likely isn't causing undue wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the rims shouldn't adversely affect the life of the rim if you are doing it correctly and making sure that the rims are dry after cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6795" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T22:45:19.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14898" CreationDate="2013-10-01T00:57:06.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to use a &quot;seatpost shim&quot; that converts you folding bike's seat tube inner diameter to a different inner diameter.  That way you would open up options for buying a better/different seatpost that actually has a modern clamp (mounting apparatus) at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your linked replacement says that post has an outer diameter (OD) of 34.1mm and 550mm long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe one of these &lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelsmfg.com/seat-post-shims.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Wheels Manufacturing&quot; shims&lt;/a&gt; could fit to convert it.  There is one listed that is slightly off: it is listed as 34.0mm taking it down to either 27.2mm or 30.9mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, for example, there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000G8LQYK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;27.2mm diameter seatposts that are 400mm long&lt;/a&gt; that include the clamp apparatus at the top.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have not tried this setup before, so do not know it will work.  Also, if the 400mm long seatpost would be too short, then this clearly won't work out for you.  If you had the original seatpost pushed down much more than 150mm / 6 inches then it should work.  It is a big difference between 400mm and 550mm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T00:57:06.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-10-01T03:11:14.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question will vary from rider to rider, based on their riding patterns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For long rides with significant uninterrupted portions (especially on cycle paths), clip-pedals or cleated pedals have relatively little drawback, and they can extend your range. (I found myself able to go maybe 25% further before getting worn out.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For rides where short bursts of acceleration or hill-climbing are required, clipped/cleated pedals can make it much easier, because you have more muscles to use. Medium-difficulty hills become easy, and high-difficulty hills become medium.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For rides where there is a lot of stop-and-go, like dense urban areas with many stoplights in a row, clipped/cleated pedals can become more annoying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For casual rides, where the question is &quot;do I bother jumping on my bicycle or no?&quot;, clipped and cleated pedals can be a bit of a big production, especially for cleated pedals where you need the special shoes. But some double-sided pedals exist so you can have it both ways.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So consider whether your bicycle rides would be improved by better acceleration and a longer range. If not, you're certainly free to forebear! Heck, it costs money; that's reason enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, all told, the primary dangers to cyclists in most circumstances are probably going to be crashes with automobiles, and crashes/wipeouts at speed due to sudden loss of control. But if you have enough time to break, you have enough time to unclip: it's not likely you'll be able to avoid a crash just by having your feet free. Feet just aren't that useful in accidents, unless you're traveling at low speeds already and swerving to avoid a pedestrian or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user443" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T03:11:14.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17854" CreationDate="2013-10-01T08:22:23.257" Score="5" ViewCount="2182" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are short and long stems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/359/what-effect-does-changing-the-stem-length-have-on-my-bikes-handling&quot;&gt;What effect does changing the stem length have on my bikes handling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are flat bars and there are curved back bars for comfort upright position:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0E1y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There even seem to exist bikes with no stem (apparently called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Mondraker-Forward-Geometry-on-the-bike-comparison.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;with forward geometry&lt;/a&gt;&quot;):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQE00.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have never, ever seen a bike with stem, going back from the headtube towards the rider. Such a setup would provide extremely wide wheelbase, which seems to be a good idea in some scenarios. Why is this geometry never used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T09:59:16.420" Title="What would be the handling of a bike with reversed stem?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;handling&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18053" CreationDate="2013-10-01T08:27:34.683" Score="8" ViewCount="1236" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I recently cracked my frame near the headtube, every bike shop that I went to, asked me explicitly &quot;Did you put a longer travel fork?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting aside that apparently fork travel and fork crown height are two entirely different measurements, and that the fork height is actually critical, &lt;strong&gt;how does a higher fork contribute to higher stress in the frame?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also:    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the effect of lower fork than the original?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does bike A, being sold with higher fork than bike B, mean that A's frame is stronger? Or is it just different geometry?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T16:14:13.933" Title="Why would higher fork contribute significantly to breaking the frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;reliability&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17849" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-10-01T08:31:07.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The summary is taken from Wikipedia - refer to it for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T09:25:41.823" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T09:25:41.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17850" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-10-01T08:31:07.823" Score="0" Body="Reliability (engineering) and also a branch of statistics, the ability of a system or component to perform its required functions under stated conditions for a specified period of time." OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T09:26:14.780" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T09:26:14.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17852" CreationDate="2013-10-01T10:24:07.740" Score="20" ViewCount="87661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my bike (gt avalanche 1.0) to commute to work. Now it's autumn and so rain can happen just every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the questions are: is leaving my bike outside harmful? Should take the seatpost with me or better leave it in place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4007" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T10:33:24.403" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T12:37:07.183" Title="Leave a bicycle in the rain for a day - is it safe?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17851" CreationDate="2013-10-01T10:40:35.550" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's no problem, but there are a few things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep all the moving parts well oiled. Note that even if you only ride on roads there will be more dirt getting on it, so you'll need to give the chain a good clean, let it dry, and oil it.  This should stop the mechanicals getting too rusty, some screw heads will rust but not too badly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet rims don't brake as well, especially if the wet isn't pure, so after riding off the first stop may take longer (and be noisy). If the rain has stop it may be worth applying the brakes (carefully) once or twice right after starting your ride, to get the rims dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a waterproof saddle cover, then take it off when you want to ride - so much more comfortable than a wet saddle, especially if the saddle has stitching which lets the water in.  This is better than a plastic bag, because you can leave it on, and only remove it if it's wet. Alternatively, get a saddle with a plastic surface, then you can just wipe off the rain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're expecting really heavy rain, your lights might not take it (as I found out recently) so you might want to take them with you (of course you might want to anyway so they don't get stolen). This is for removable lights; if you have lights that are meant to be installed permanently (for dynamo use), they will gererally be watertight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride in the rain, then keep the bike in a shed on a damp day, it won't dry out properly for hours anyway, so the actual outside storage isn't much extra punishment on top of the ride (assuming of course that it's wet all day)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T12:37:07.183" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T12:37:07.183" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17847" CreationDate="2013-10-01T12:04:38.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually have a VO Grand Cru stem angled back toward me. With the trekking bars, it works for my modest mostly-upright-posture purposes. No effect on bike handling that I can tell. If I get a yen to lean further forward someday (unlikely, with my middle-aged back) I'll flip it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjustable stems can also be persuaded to do this. So it's possible, just not common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T12:04:38.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17847" CreationDate="2013-10-01T13:30:31.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reversing the stem (without changing the top tube length) will make the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very easy to wheelie and manual (see video &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/qHy6dP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/qHy6dP&lt;/a&gt; which shows a person who did that in order to learn to manual)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;harder to corner properly because you wouldn't be able to push the handlebars down hard. In downhill you'd most probably tend to go straight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;harder to climb because of #1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T13:30:31.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-01T14:44:56.673" Score="1" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike with 2 sets of tyres, a road set and off road set, when I switch between them about 1 in 3 times I seem to get a puncture, and I can't see why?  I've gone though 4 innertubes now doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'll inflate the tyre, cycle around for 30-40mins then I'll notice something wrong, and it's almost flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong?  I deflate the tyre, flick off the tyer and innertube (using a plastic thingy from Evans, so no sharp bits there), put the innertube inside the other tyer, put both back on the wheel and inflate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated, if I don't reply right away I'm probably walking down the cycle shop buying another innertube. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T15:15:58.820" Title="mountain bike switching tyres I get a puncture, why, am i doing something wrong?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17855" CreationDate="2013-10-01T15:15:58.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A theory:  There is some damage or debris on the inside of your tire.  A second theory is slightly out of position rim tape.  A third theory is your technique may be leading to a pinch flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions to help diagnose:&#xA;When you switch between tire sets, does the flat happen only going to one set of tires?  Or does it happen no matter which tire?  If it's just one tire set, then inspect the inside carefully for debris or other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time the tire is off, look at the rim tape carefully and run a finger along it. It should be smooth and sturdy. You may also want to check that it's secure all the way around. If it is moving around during tire changes it could be exposing a spoke nipple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third theory would be that if the tire it tight or tough to get on then perhaps you are pinch flatting during the tire change. Advise here is to go carefully...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8278" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T15:15:58.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17851" CreationDate="2013-10-01T15:22:07.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Avoid taking the seatpost with you if you expect rain. Rain will get into the inside of the frame, and pool down in the bottom bracket.  This will soon lead to a very squeaky bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would refine the comment above: the drivetrain should be both well lubed and dry (no water and no oil). An oily or greasy chain is a magnet for dirt and wears much faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also probably worth trying to see if you can find a way to store your bike indoors at the office.  One day in the rain won't hurt your bike too bad, but continuous storage outdoors will add up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to clean that drivetrain often as you ride in the wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Jb&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8278" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T15:22:07.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17816" CreationDate="2013-10-01T15:38:23.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that if you are running a SRAM Force or Red drivetrain, the cost of a $4.00 link is a drop in the bucket.  If you are concerned about it, just get a new one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worry about your chain's integrity is probably not worth the price of a Red Bull...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8278" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T15:38:23.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17863" CreationDate="2013-10-01T16:33:26.643" Score="8" ViewCount="1142" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the better braking strategy for steep, technical descents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Brake hard, then release completely &amp;amp; roll.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;vs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Maintain constant pressure on the brakes.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3571" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T18:41:48.057" Title="Mountain bikes: Downhill braking" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17859" CreationDate="2013-10-01T16:57:14.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Braking is as much a style as other parts of riding, but there are some general guidelines. The longer you hold those brakes, the more the heat will build up and braking performance will decrease. You'll also burn through pads a lot faster that way. On the other hand, sudden braking puts quite a bit of stress on the bike all the way from the rotor through the fork/rear triangle, to the handlebars and chain. It also changes the way the suspension moves through it's travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should use either of these methods? I generally use a longer, controlled brake when descending a steep chute that requires a bit more technical riding or doesn't have a great runout after the rough bits. Quick braking is useful when you're plowing into a corner and need to scrub some speed quick or plan on drifting around it. You can also brake right before dropping in to a section so that the wheels roll over the rocks and roots instead of sliding and then roll out the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really it's going to come down to how you ride and where you like to make speed changes. Experiment and find what's comfortable and what meets your needs. If you're trying to carry crazy speed you might find a quick, hard brake is more beneficial, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T16:57:14.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-01T17:03:32.100" Score="1" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am undecided to upgrade the BB and crank or change a wheelset. Any advice on what might help me spend less effort pedaling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually find a steel 26&quot; MTB easier to pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6325" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T17:03:32.100" Title="What to upgrade on a Raleigh MV7? 20&quot;" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17859" CreationDate="2013-10-01T18:41:48.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aaron's answer is great but since you mention the words &quot;downhill&quot; and &quot;technical descents&quot; the rule of thumb is that &quot;constant pressure on the brakes&quot; is not appropriate. It does not allow you to ride safely, enjoy the ride and evolve as a rider. That's because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake pads wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brakes heat up so:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they don't work very well (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fade&quot;&gt;brake fade&lt;/a&gt;) so you then press the levers even harder which tires you, gives you &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=define%20arm%20pump&quot;&gt;arm pump&lt;/a&gt; thus making you do more mistakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;under some circumstances generate air into the system so they need bleeding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;riding posture is constantly a bit backwards (to compensate on the constant breaking) which is not correct for riding downhill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suspensions do not work properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you cannot properly ride bermed (or not) corners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, not braking everywhere on the course will let you go over obstacles, roots, rocks easier. That's especially important for the front wheel which, even when under minimal braking, when it hits an obstacle it doesn't react very well. It transmits a lot of feedback on the handlebars and unless you know what you are doing may give you slight problems (regarding riding stance, line choice, balance) which is something that is not welcome when riding downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note though that riding downhill is hard. If you find yourself unable to do proper braking on a course then maybe it's too steep for you. Find a flatter course and try to master all of its parts with minimal and purposeful braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T18:41:48.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21124" CreationDate="2013-10-01T18:49:18.473" Score="2" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used bike with Sram 7 gear hub and after a few weeks, the chain started falling of all the time. I took it to a bike shop and they told me that the problem is in the gear hub, that it's not working as it should and because of that, the rear wheel keeps moving out of it's place, out of the dropouts. They also told me that probably no shop here in Denmark would be willing to do the rebuild of the hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? The cost of a new hub is more than 50% of the price I bought the bike for, so it doesn't seem reasonable to invest any more money in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8280" LastEditorUserId="8280" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T22:00:47.040" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T22:48:53.523" Title="Can you rebuild a Sram gear hub?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17865" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-10-01T20:09:32.143" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T20:09:32.143" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T20:09:32.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17866" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-10-01T20:09:32.143" Score="0" Body="Making a choice between upgrading a bike you have or simply buying a new bike." OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T20:09:32.143" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T20:09:32.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4684" CreationDate="2013-10-01T22:37:43.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano actually made a 28H drum brake (model number looks to be Y.L 802-60 shimano m system rotatex).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have what looks to be a virtually new one as part of a 16&quot; x 1.75&quot; rim ... I'm actually trying to &quot;acquire&quot; a 20&quot; x 1.75&quot; 36H version if anyone is interested in an exchange. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8282" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T22:37:43.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-02T00:51:43.687" Score="3" ViewCount="1932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a specialized Stumpjumper 29 and its only been a few weeks but I've punctured the tire four times already. I think im getting the punctures from the trees and bark on the trail but is there any type of tire that is more puncture resistant that the stock one I have right now? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8283" LastActivityDate="2020-04-14T01:08:46.577" Title="How do I stop my bike tires from puncturing?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17868" CreationDate="2013-10-02T01:34:27.597" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its unlikely that the problem is your tire quality. Stump jumpers are not cheap bikes and come with pretty decent tires. Although a Kevlar belted tire might help, its likely to be a waste of money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First up is what you are riding over. Bark, twigs and trees themselves are not going to puncture a MTB tire. Thorns, particularly dry ones, will. Even relatively small thorns (a couple om millimeter) will puncture a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have punctured and have not removed the offending pointy thing, you will puncture again, this might be what has happened. Are the holes in the same place each time? This is the most likely reason for four in quick succession. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are your punctures one or two holes? If two, you are getting &quot;snake bites&quot; from too low tire pressure - (well covered already, use search).. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding over thorns, then you need to buy thick heavy tires with a Kevlar belt. Light tires puncture easier. Also install thick, heavy tubes. This extra weight wil slow you down, but not as much as fixing punctures does. Consider going tubeless (the sealer also helps seal up puncture holes). You could also ride different trails - I have some locally that I avoid for this reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could always be you just had a bad run of it......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T01:34:27.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17864" CreationDate="2013-10-02T01:45:03.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last time I rebuilt an internal gear hub was when I was a kid with a Sturmey Archer 3-speed. These things are at a whole other level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it depends on you, your tools, and mechanical know-how. Most shops would not attempt it unless they are a dealer, because they would not be sure of a positive outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We would need pictures to corroborate what the shops are telling you. It seems unlikely to me, although it may be the reason the bike was sold in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/sram/dealers/DTM_GHS_E_99.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SRAM TECHNICAL DEALER MANUAL&lt;/a&gt;. Even if you don't tackle the job yourself, it mentions the Denmark distributor (hopefully they haven't changed). They may be able to help or give an opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try to get it working. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS Google shows other interesting links for &quot;Sram 7 gear hub&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T01:45:03.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17873" CreationDate="2013-10-02T02:35:01.020" Score="14" ViewCount="51199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a new bike with a set of tubeless compatible rims. The stock tires are clinchers with tubes. I'm thinking about putting tubeless on there, but I don't have any experience with them. We have some trees here that drop huge thorns, like nails. They're big enough to go through any tire. When I get the eventual flat, how do I fix the tire? Are there patches? Can you just stick a tube in there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T19:45:23.213" Title="How do you fix a puncture on tubeless tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17872" CreationDate="2013-10-02T03:00:16.170" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;When putting tubeless tyres on I would definitely recommend that you use a sealant such as Stan's if riding somewhere with thorns. This would be your first level of defence. The sealant would seal up a thorn (or other) hole quickly and painlessly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can repair a tubeless tyre with a vulcanizing repair kit, but reseating a tubeless on the trail is very difficult. It is virtually impossible to do without 'shop air' (I haven't tried CO2) so carrying a tube is important for any major leaks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can simply run a tubless tyre with a tube until you get somewhere to properly fix the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Like everything else in the mtb world there are two schools of thought on whether you leave the thorn in or remove it, I would remove it. If you leave it in it plugs the hole but then if you ever do need to put a tube in you risk puncturing that also.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T03:00:16.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15174" CreationDate="2013-10-02T08:29:30.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;GP4Seasons are excellent tyres. 230g for the 23c tyre and I had no punctures in 8 months of cycling a road bike in &amp;amp; around Nairobi with very dodgy roads! I was riding around with &quot;wounds&quot; without even realising it. A fellow rider picked one out once and said &quot;this'll give you a puncture&quot;, but I never had one. Grip is also very good, there's a German cycling article &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not ridden the 4000s, mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See an excellent comparison here, by a cycling magazine.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/www/download/bicycle_de_en/general/downloads/download/tourtest_gp4000s_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.conti-online.com/www/download/bicycle_de_en/general/downloads/download/tourtest_gp4000s_en.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8286" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T08:29:30.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-02T12:51:29.597" Score="3" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to estimate the price of a bike if bought in parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One thing is the frame, that is easy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The front and rear shock can also easily be checked out as individual components.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tires&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fibica.com/mountain/groupsets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;groupset&lt;/a&gt; seems to include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shifters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drivetrain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hubs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those categories are easy to check for price on the manufacturers sites. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a few pieces remain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;saddle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seatpost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spokes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rims&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;axles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO those peaces constitute a small, but significant fraction of the price of a bike. However, they are so numerous, that checking their prices is tedious, compared e.g. to googling &quot;Alivio groupset&quot; or &quot;Schwalbe Rapid Rob&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there some easy way, given that I know the prices of all components in the &lt;strong&gt;numbered&lt;/strong&gt; bullet points above, to estimate the price, in parts, roughly, of a bike?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-10-02T14:08:48.880" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T22:15:08.017" Title="Is there a collective name for the non-groupset parts?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15134" CreationDate="2013-10-02T13:03:32.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago I used a Blackberry Playbook (mini-tablet) with Open Street Maps (OSMAND) downloaded onto it for a two week bike tour in the North-east United States.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it very, very helpful!  Especially when you don't know where you are.  It can pinpoint your location on a map in about a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the future I would recommend something smaller with really good battery life.  An iphone is a good size, but the battery life is too short.  A smartphone with an excellent battery life is probably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future I would also consider a solar charger to use while I'm riding.  Battery life was the limiting factor for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In North America Open Street Maps is pretty good, but it is not perfect (no map is), so you still need to talk with locals and ask about the best routes.... and actually that's a fun part of cycling anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google maps may be the best on-line maps, but I don't think that Google maps has a good off-line version.  You might need to hunt around a bit for something else.  OSMAND was good for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8288" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T13:03:32.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16982" CreationDate="2013-10-02T13:05:50.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Specialized Roubaix that came with some pretty heavy DT Axis 1.0 wheels. I upgraded to Fulcrum Racing 3's and couldn't be happier. The people who claim that they aren't faster are missing out on a very important thing. The hubs. They just roll and roll and roll. They also climb much better. They are stiffer. All around better wheels. After a few weeks I swapped back to the DT's for a day just to see if the difference was just in my head. And man, do they feel slow and heavy. Do it, you won't regret the purchase. And if you aren't happy, I'll buy em off you for my 2nd bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8289" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T13:05:50.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15134" CreationDate="2013-10-02T13:14:50.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Garmin now has a lower cost touring gps that is more suited to navigation than than training.  It comes with maps and runs about $250 USD.  It's called Garmin Edge Touring. There is a more expensive model which supports a heart rate monitor for about $50 more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing this would work well with software like ridewithgps or garmin connect to plan out routes and upload them to the device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to the product page:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/into-sports/cycling/edge-touring/prod134596.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/into-sports/cycling/edge-touring/prod134596.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you prefer to use a smartphone and may not be able to charge your phone frequently.  I recommend a battery bank charger like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007MLHS2S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;verbatim power bank charger&lt;/a&gt;, a dynamo powered usb charger, or solar usb charger (which may work better to charge a battery pack and charge your device from that as needed).  Be careful when selecting something like this, since some of these may or may not support the iphone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new iphone 5s has a special co-processor to handle navigation tasks.  This should lead to decreased battery usage over older iphone models.  This might be a consideration if your plan is up and were planning on upgrading phones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, you may not always have a data connection with a cell phone in remote areas, so you may need to consider apps that can cache maps offline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-10-02T13:35:02.550" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T13:35:02.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17875" CreationDate="2013-10-02T13:41:09.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could call the collection of groupset and other parts minus the frame and fork a build kit.  There are different build kits available to build up a frame in to a complete bike.  Some may or may not include a seatpost and saddle or wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T13:41:09.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17875" CreationDate="2013-10-02T13:49:23.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually a gruppo is the parts that make up the drivetrain, and sometimes some of the controls. The rest is add-ons that don't have to match to work together, although this is becoming more true for drivetrains as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll see that higher end parts outside of a group can come in &quot;lines&quot; too. Look at any major manufacturer and you can see this, e.g. RaceFace Atlas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as wheels go, there's not really a standard pairing that's going to allow you view those with anything else. Some companies have partnerships with wheel makers and you might see groups that way, but it's pretty rare. The reason for this is that often times wheels are built with hubs, rims, and spokes from different companies or different brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, but not least, don't forget that a groupset is put together by a brand. They're not going to give you a deal on someone else's stuff if they can't make money on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T13:49:23.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17851" CreationDate="2013-10-02T14:34:37.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that water falling on a bike for a short period of time, will not cause any harm, if by short we consider less than an hour. The water staying in the bike though may cause corrosion. That is, it takes time for corrosion to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why you can perfectly wash your bike, provided that you shake the excess water off and let it dry before you store it in an enclosed place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &quot;park&quot; the bike outdoors I would consider some factors like time of the rain event. I would say that it is worse for your bike if it rains on it in the morning and it stays stationary and wet for the rest of the day, giving enough time for corrosion to occur. If the bike gets soaked but is ridden shortly after, vibration from riding and circulating air will shake water off and in some cases almost dry it, so a rain in the afternoon, just before you get out of the office will do almost no harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor is whether splash will drag dirt and other foreign matter onto the bike. That's why it helps if you lock the bike in a clean, dirt free location. These concerns, however, are no different than riding on wet streets/trails. A properly lubricated bike should survive with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with water, a little or even a lot of mud will cause no harm if cleaned off soon enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride mostly XC in a tropical country, here it rains all year round (some seasons more than others) so it is highly usual to get home with a muddy bike.I just wash it as soon as possible, shake it a little and let it rest indoors. I have absolutely no problems caused by water or mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An aluminium frame will mostly have no problem at all with water. An steel frame should be kept with a good paint job, covering any metal-exposing scratches with any suitable paint or even nail polish. I also reccomend sealing vent holes (Near the ends of stays, they are there to let out welding fumes during fabrication). This can be done with hotglue, gasket silicone or electrical tape. I would seal or cover the seatpost collar and headset bearing if I suspect water can easily get in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealed bearing hubs and bottom brackets are almost immune to gentle rain. Others have proper &quot;dust caps&quot; tha makes them well suited for rainy environments as long as mudy riding is not involved. For non sealed bearings with no adequate gaskets, repacking them frequently with fresh grease is recommended. I would suggest once every two months, depending on the particular conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the drivetrain, specially non covered chain with derailleurs, frequent cleaning with proper lubrication is the only way to go. I rely on visual inspection to determine whether it is necessary to clean &quot;now!&quot;. When there is obvious grit accumulation on cogsets or the chain is covered with a paste-like oil-dirt mixture, it is time. And old toothbrush and 20 minutes of patience is enough. Lube after drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these tips are my regular preventive maintenance for mountain bikes ridden on dirt trails. For commuting on good city steets same measures apply, only not so frequent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:49:17.123" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:49:17.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17884" CreationDate="2013-10-02T16:31:23.477" Score="3" ViewCount="8499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replenish the fluid in my front brake on my Whyte Portobello (Promax Hornet disk brake) after all of the fluid leaked out through my own mistake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at kits like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Avid-Brake-Bleed-Kit-Juicy-3-3-5-4-5-7-Elixir-1-3-5-7-9-R-CR-Code-5-R-XO-XX-/181210767966?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_BikeLocks_SR&amp;amp;var=&amp;amp;hash=item2a3100e25e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; on eBay, will it will be fully compatible with my Promax calipers etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6079" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T21:41:41.710" Title="Will any Avid brake bleed kit work with my Promax brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17895" CreationDate="2013-10-02T19:27:23.647" Score="4" ViewCount="3849" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I am cycling a lot with a backpack (specifically a chrome citizen), whilst the bag is brilliant it's just not big enough for everything I'm carrying, and with a lot of weight in it it hurts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001NGF4W4/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item_image&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this rack&lt;/a&gt;, and I'm looking to invest in a new set of panniers or some form of rack bag for my bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a day to day basis I'm carrying at least one camera body (at the moment a big heavy Canon 1D body), a large telephoto lens, a wider lens and a flash. On top of this I have other items, such as my bike lock, a pad of paper and a small ThinkPad laptop (~12 inch), it would be nice to also have a change of shoes if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some panniers which will:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fit in all of my camera gear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping it relatively safe, and dry within reason (i.e. no monsoon)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fit in my other day to day items. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I would like to be able to take a pannier full of my camera gear straight off the bike and use it while shooting, then pop it back on and set off with minimal fuss. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would best suit the above? I should probably add I'm in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6079" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T04:22:18.557" Title="Panniers or rack bags for photography equipment" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17882" CreationDate="2013-10-02T19:33:01.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only specific piece that you need to worry about is the threaded hose fitting that screws the tube from the syringe into the reservior port, everything else is identical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I believe that the Promax Hornet use two different types of threads for their reservoir ports on the lever and caliper whereas Avid only use a single type (if someone can confirm otherwise, you are good to go). So you may only have one fitting that works instead of the required two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many generic sets that come with multiple fittings that are cheaper than the Avid kit and will have the fitting you need. They don't ususally come with DOT 4/5.1 but you can buy this at any automotive store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-10-02T19:38:11.450" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T19:38:11.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17875" CreationDate="2013-10-02T19:59:00.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is an 'easy' way so it will require a bit of leg work and study to get a good reference. It is unlikely that any manufacturer will offer any of these parts at a higher spec level than that of the groupset. So I would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Choose a few bikes at different spec levels (based on groupset, Acera, Alivio, Deore, SLX, XT and XTR (or equivalent SRAM models)).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jump on to &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikepedia.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikePedia&lt;/a&gt; and note down what parts each bike has.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiggle.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wiggle&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://chainreactioncycles.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chain Reaction&lt;/a&gt; or similar to price the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you some reference as to the price of all the other parts on any bike you are looking at by the groupset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;under SLX level most bikes will have generic parts so take an estimate at quality based on materials.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bike companies are buying thousands of these items so with economies of scale will actually be paying very little.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;unless you are buying factory wheels separately you will have to pay for building.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bikes cost more to build than buy complete but you get to choose what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T19:59:00.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17887" CreationDate="2013-10-02T20:18:50.667" Score="5" ViewCount="2570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have mudguards on my bike as shown here:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x8nIm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My Bike!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I don't even know what the metal spoke-like things attaching it to the bike are called. Do they have a name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, what do I need to attach them back to the bike. From the non-broken ones it doesn't look like a normal screw, but again not knowing the name means I am not getting very far with google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, out of interest, is there a name for this type of mudguard and is it an old/out of date type of mudguard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8293" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T22:50:45.783" Title="Very basic mudguard question" Tags="&lt;fenders&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17886" CreationDate="2013-10-02T20:49:42.810" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mudguards (typically called fenders in the US) are a great feature and come in many varieties. The fenders you have are full-coverage fenders and are likely aluminum. Metal fenders are still quite common (and in my opinion, fenders are an essential addition to any bike if you live where it rains. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velo-orange.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Velo Orange&lt;/a&gt; manufactures many sizes and styles that are affordable.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fenders are held to the bike via fender stays (long aluminum rods) and are mounted directly at the fork crown in the front and the brake bridge and chainstay bridge/bottom bracket shell in the rear.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9G7J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Full Fenders&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fender stays are usually mounted to threaded bosses (with an M5 or M6 cap screw) integrated into the front and rear dropouts (or near the dropouts.) In situations where you don't have dedicated bosses, you can use p-clamps to mount them securely.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AUcBr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;P Clamp Mount&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lDXQW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Honest-to-goodness p clamps&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the other end of the stay there is a nut and an eye bolt which allow the distance between your tire and the fender to be adjusted (10mm minimum!) Note: There are many different methods for attaching fender stays, but this is what your fenders utilize.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M7y6Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fender Stay Hardware&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To install, you simply put the eye bolt onto the fender stay, push the threaded part through the hole on the mounting tab, and tighten the nut down to secure the stay. Do everything loosely at first, then adjust the distance from the fender to the tire and center it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=1794&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to an online vendor, but most bike shops will have this hardware on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-10-02T22:50:45.783" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T22:50:45.783" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17894" CreationDate="2013-10-02T21:39:29.450" Score="8" ViewCount="29481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the market for a used cyclocross bike to use as a winter bike, and so I've been browsing craigslist.  I generally ride a 56-58 cm road bike frame, so I turned down an otherwise good deal because it was a 52 cm frame.  The seller told me that a 52 cm cyclocross frame was comparable to a 54 cm road frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that statement true?  And if it is true, how is that so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T19:39:22.343" Title="Cyclocross frame size vs. road bike frame size" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17882" CreationDate="2013-10-02T21:41:41.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a brake bleed kit helps do the job quickly and cleanly, but if you're not doing it very often you don't necessarily need a kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your bike is setup so there aren't many places for bubbles to get caught, you can just work the lever and tap the lines and so on while the bleed bolts are open, to assist air bubbles rising to the top and out of the system (catching any leaking fluid in a perfectly clean container so you can re-use it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bleed kit and don't bother using it, my bike generally doesn't trap any air bubbles anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are a few small bubbles in the system, the brake lever will still work, it'll just feel a tad spongy or soft. I would just try doing as good a job as you can without a bleed kit, and then if they aren't working as good as they should order a proper kit for your Promax brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4564" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T21:41:41.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17892" CreationDate="2013-10-02T21:51:09.327" Score="4" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that chainrings 50T and larger all use five bolt holes instead of four, invariant of BCD. How come? Is this simply due to tradition or is there a mechanical stress reasoning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4232" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T22:59:01.843" Title="Why are chainrings 50T and larger five-bolt rather than four-bolt?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17868" CreationDate="2013-10-02T21:52:38.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chances are your tyre has something sharp on the inside, that is rubbing on the tube while you ride and eventually causing another puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixing a puncture is not good enough. You also need to find out why the puncture happened in the first place, and solve that problem. Remove the sharp object from the tyre (usually it sticks through and then gets stuck in there) or if it's a pinch flat you need higher air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When replacing the tyre, always fit it so the label lines up with the valve stem. That way if you're repeatedly getting punctures in the same place you will know exactly where on the tyre to search for the offending sharp object that is stuck on the inside, causing repeated punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the wheel rim for anything sharp or damaged. But you have a new bike, so that's unlikely unless there was a manufacturing fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4564" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T21:52:38.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17890" CreationDate="2013-10-02T22:59:01.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: It's just marketing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 1930's, René Herse used three-arm, 70mm BCD cranks, and you can buy 50T chainrings today that fit that specification. In 1949, Stronglight introduced the Model 49, that bolted the big chainring to the crank with a tiny set of five bolts near the spindle, and then bolted a secondary chainring directly to the first. In 1958, Campagnolo introduced big 5-arm cranks (151mm BCD!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly everyone adopted and refined variations of the five-arm design for the next four decades (TA tried six bolts for a while), until Shimano introduced the 4-arm XTR crank (112mm BCD) in 1996, followed up by more 4-arm cranks (104mm BCD) for LX and XT in 1997.  The marketing reason was that they were lighter (slightly), but it also meant that Shimano was the only company selling chainrings to fit the nascent standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano was the 800lb gorilla of the 90's MTB marketplace, and where they went others followed. Over the next decade, 4-bolt cranks became common in mountain biking, where smaller chainrings are the norm. Hence the lack of large chainrings in four-bolt patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attempting to make the same leap again, the 2013 Shimano Dura Ace 9000 road crankset uses a non-symmetrical 4-arm crank with a 110mm BCD and up to 53 teeth. Once again, the stated marketing reason is weight - apparently this crankset saves 12 grams over the 5-arm Dura Ace 7900 crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much reviewers ink has been spilled over the stiffness of the new four-arm design and it's underlying strength, but it's not really clear that the cranksets of today are dramatically superior to those 3-bolt cranksets of the 30's, which were used to power tandems to the top of the Poly Chanteloup - and modern reproductions of those cranks are still lighter than the modern Dura Ace cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More reading: &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/09/07/history-of-aluminum-cranks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jan Heine's History of Aluminum Cranks&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/components/stronglight-timeline-comp.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stronglight 5-arm crankset timeline&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mombat.org/Shimano.htm#1996&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; Museum of Mountain Bike Art &amp;amp; Technology Shimano timeline&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingnews.com/reviews/shimano-dura-ace-9000-mechanical-groupset-review&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cycling News Dura Ace 9000 review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T22:59:01.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17888" CreationDate="2013-10-03T00:10:13.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle sizing may vary by bicycle type, region, manufacturer, and material. And measurements typically are of a length of the frame (usually bottom bracket to top tube: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4/how-do-i-measure-the-size-of-my-bicycle-frame&quot;&gt;How do I measure the size of my bicycle frame?&lt;/a&gt;). So it would not be surprising if this statement was true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the geometry of the frames, two bikes may have different &quot;sizes&quot; but actually fit the same size rider well. It is possible that cyclocross frames tend to have a smaller measured sized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a post that goes in depth... and is ultimately inconclusive: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-138316.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-138316.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T00:10:13.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17888" CreationDate="2013-10-03T00:29:50.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first and foremost measurement is effective toptube length. There are, of course, other deciding factors in how a bike fits, but effective toptube length plays the biggest factor in whether a bike is going to fit or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes are still measured in terms of seattube length which made some sense when many bikes had the same toptube length regardless of size These days that measurement has virtually no meaning with the varying degrees of compact geometry that most manufacturers implement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, cyclocross bikes don't fit a size bigger than road bikes as a rule. Some folks like to run a size smaller for a cross bike, some a size bigger. Your safest bet is to go for approximately the same cockpit length that you've got on your road bike. If you ride a 58 that has a 58-ish toptube, chances are a 52 even with a 54-ish toptube is going to be too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T00:29:50.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17883" CreationDate="2013-10-03T00:34:00.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4yXD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;moz&amp;#39;s camera pannier&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VnD2N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;camera pannier on bike&quot;&gt;&#xA;I found a picture of how I did this! You can see the firmer, black foam with foil that I used on the outside, and the bits of softer foam that I used to pack everything in. The flap poking up covers the top when the pannier is closed. This photo is from when I was putting it together, so the contents is not well arranged. I make a simple frame so I could use the pannier as a handlebar bag so it got the benefit of the suspension fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started out with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://ortlieb.com/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=frontrollerplus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ortlieb front roller&lt;/a&gt;, which is a smallish squareish pannier. I had a 300D + 70-300/5.6mm at that stage, so it was also fairly small. I got a sheet of foam about 30mm thick and carefully cut and folded it to make a box that just fit into the pannier. I added an extra layer at the bottom, since that's where most of the shocks come from. Then I cut more bits of foam to nest the camera and lenses. Basically set it up the way you'd set up any other camera bag, and arranged so that opening the pannier let me lift the camera out eaasily. Obviously this filled the whole pannier, so on tour I ended up with two full size rear panniers plus that front one. But the camera survived 10,000km or so of riding over several years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a larger camera you will need a larger pannier to start with, or sacrifice some of the padding. I suggest getting a large pannier, and making a padded camera bag out of foam to occupy the top half of the pannier, then making a cloth bag to hold that so you can lift the whole camera out easily to access the rest of your stuff. I'd probably keep my d lock on top of the camera round town so it's easy to get to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The foam I used was house insulation foam with foil on one side. That worked well to stiffen it and make it more wear resilient - otherwise getting the foam box out of the pannier would have inevitably worn away the foam (I used the pannier for other things too). So a cloth cover would do the same thing, and should be easy enough to make as it doesn't need to exactly match the shape of the foam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a commercial solution I doubt you'll have much luck - I've never seen anything. The best would be a small-ish camera backpack to hold most of the camera gear, then a pannier with everything else in it. That gets most of the weight off your back, but the expensive bits still benefit from the suspension effect of your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I use now is a Crumpler camera side-bag that looks a lot like their bike courier bags but has a fuzzy interior that catches velcro, so I can use padded camera bag dividers to slot camera gear into it. It was easier to add the courier strap to a camera bag than convert a couier bag to camera gear (but it's not a great courier bag if you're on and off the bike all day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For touring I have a custom recumbent bike with a special bin behind the seat to hold my camera backpack. I have a Desley bag that holds a laptop or a 1D body, but it's not quite high enough to hold both easily. It does, however, max out the cabin luggage size on most airlines. For getting onto the plane I usually put the camera around my neck, often with a big lens on it to bring the bag under the weight limit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T00:36:19.577" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T00:36:19.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17868" CreationDate="2013-10-03T00:42:24.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watch what you're riding over&lt;/strong&gt;. Thorns, glass, and other sharp objects are obviously not your friends. Seems like a no brainer, but it's worth pointing out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ensure that there's not something sharp embedded in your tire&lt;/strong&gt;. This is a common problem- you'll run over something that punctures your tire and when you change tube it's flat again not too long after. Sometimes this is due to whatever punctured your tube the first time still being stuck in your tire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep your tire pressure up&lt;/strong&gt;. If you're noticing two holes in about the same spot on the tube that resembles a &quot;snake bite&quot;, you're getting what's called punch flats. This happens when the tire and tube compresses sufficiently between the ground and the rim to actually cut the tube. Increasing tire pressure can help alleviate this&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let your bike &quot;float&quot; under you&lt;/strong&gt;. This just comes with practice, but if you get your butt off the saddle in rough stuff and let the bike move underneath you, the impacts aren't as severe and you are once again less likely to suffer pinch flats. As this technique improves you can also decrease your tire pressure if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Go tubeless&lt;/strong&gt;. This may require a conversion kit, or your existing tires and tubes may be tubeless ready in which case you'd just need valve stems and sealant. If you're unsure about which is the case, ask the folks at the shop you bought it from. Keep in mind you can still go flat but it's less likely. MTB tubeless also limits the max PSI you can use, which shouldn't be a big deal as one of the benefits of tubeless is running lower PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T00:42:24.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16982" CreationDate="2013-10-03T00:59:41.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had some low-spoke, rigid rims that were more suited for racing that just riding around (even though I try to ride around with speed!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rode those for a number of years, then replaced them with 32-spoke rims (Mavic Open Pro).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holy cow, what a difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike rides so smoothly now. Like a completely different bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yeah, in some cases, big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8296" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T00:59:41.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15134" CreationDate="2013-10-03T08:22:25.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Garmin Dakota 20 on the bicycle, it is excellent for this use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;excellent usability, fast, µSD card, can store lots of tracks/maps/etc, readable in sunlight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uses AA batetries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very long battery life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;waterproof (no problem in pouring rain)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;touchscreen sometimes not as precise as I'd like&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;uh... that's about it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget about the smartphones (battery life is too short, unreadable in sunlight), and anything that has LiIon or any type of battery which is not AA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy AA batteries anywhere, so if you're in a pinch, or forgot to charge, no problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live near Lyon in france, so if you plan to coming near, drop me a message, I'll send you some GPX traces to approach the city through the proper safe and nice route... I see way too many tour cyclists on the 4 lane highway because there are ZERO signage to point them to the right cycling route...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T08:22:25.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14541" CreationDate="2013-10-03T08:35:19.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO the advantages of clipless pedals outweight the drawbacks, for example :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no pedal hits in the tibia (ouch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no crash because the foot slips off the pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;much better control of the bike (easier to bunny hop curbs, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the type of pedals is very important. I hate SPDs. Cranks are the best but the axles and bearings break. TIME is a good compromise, clip/unclip is quick and instinctive, and getting out of the pedals happens naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T08:35:19.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2013-10-03T08:45:35.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Trice Q and several other bikes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question is &quot;it depends&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 70 km/h wind straight in your face (according to the weather office), the trike will certainly go faster. At least it will go forward. On that particular day I overtook a guy on an electric bicycle. He was the only cyclist going in that direction...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50 km/h wind in your face feels about like a 6-8% slope, that is, it takes some effort, but it's not too bad. Try that on a race bike, good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lateral wind, don't care about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wind from the rear provides a small boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no wind, the trike is slower than a touring bike, and even slower uphill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I can ride 8 hours without destroying my butt, comfort is a plus...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to ride on trails, don't forget that recumbent trikes have a very very low chain which will pick up a lot of crap, and you'll spend way too much time cleaning it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 2 wheel recumbent with suspension could be a better choice. Or just keep your bike...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T08:45:35.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17883" CreationDate="2013-10-03T10:00:38.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit - an alternative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading something over the weekend, how about a trailer.  This has the advantage that when you stop you can have all the gear in whatever bags you would like, as well as keeping the weight low and stable, and having room for tripods etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to find anything suitable, though with the added requirement of comfortable carry off the bike (ride then hike).  However I don't tend to ride far or fast with the camera gear, so ride with it in a rucksack (a Lowepro that doesn't seem to be made any more, but is max cabin bag size and slightly teardrop shaped so I can look over my shoulder, it also keep the main weight low and steady).  I only have a 40D but tend to have my Sigma 120-400 lens if I'm riding, which is a bit of a beast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm not carrying the big lens I can put the camera (+flash etc.) in a small case in my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/altura-urban-dryline-15-inch-briefcase-pannier/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pannier&lt;/a&gt; as well as a netbook (the pannier takes big laptops).  The camera with long lens would fit in the pannier, but without much room for anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have carried a DSLR in a front basket, but really wouldn't recommend it - it's a lot of weight to carry upfront even with a light rig, and a lot of torque on the bars, plus, it's a long way for it to fall (as is a rucksack, of course, but that's more stable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had the time and the need I would consider modding something - basically pop-rivetting pannier hardware onto a suitable camera bag (as all panniers appear to be top-opening), reinforced with stiff plastic sheet inside.  But I would give it a hard test ride with bricks or something in before putting anything valuable in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to check your insurance would cover breakage - I would if I had a 1D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T10:08:03.473" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T10:08:03.473" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17908" CreationDate="2013-10-03T10:53:35.630" Score="6" ViewCount="2441" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally one locks or sets both suspensions to a really hard setting to not loose to much force while going uphill. I'm however having problems on steep passages, as my front wheel lifts off the ground, or if I shift to much weight to the front, the back wheel slips. That happens especially often on rooty paths or loose ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm riding a 29&quot; with 120mm suspension at the front with three resistance settings. The back suspsension has also got three resistance settings. I can't lower my suspensions that they stay at e.g. 80mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Is it smarter to set the front suspension to an low resistance, so that the angle for falling off the back is not as steep? Or does the increased bouncing (rebound) of the suspension just increase the risk of toppling over backwards, e.g. when shifting more weight to the rear to gain traction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4680" LastEditorUserId="4680" LastEditDate="2013-10-03T14:42:12.020" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T20:09:20.550" Title="Suspension setting for slippy and steep uphill" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-03T15:38:51.980" Score="1" ViewCount="960" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the standard shifting methods?  I only know the shifting dial on flat bars and the old fashioned levers on ten speeds.  I'm not asking about when to use a particular gear but the mechanics of shifting methods.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8300" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-10-03T19:59:17.883" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T05:33:06.273" Title="What are the standard shifter designs and mechanisms?" Tags="&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-10-27T05:39:30.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-03T17:15:25.747" Score="1" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;While on vacation in Steamboat Springs CO I fell in love with a road or trail bike I rented and so did my family.  We road for miles on a trail and it was great.  I want to convert the mountain type bikes that I have in my garage that are falling apart.  They need new brakes, new seats, new tires, and possibly gears.  Is is worth it or scrap and start over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8301" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T04:34:18.793" Title="Is it cost efficient to Convert a Huffy Mens mountain bike to a road bike like the one I rented at Orange Peel in CO?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17905" CreationDate="2013-10-03T18:24:40.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put smooth tires (&quot;slicks&quot;) on a mountain bike wheel rim instead of the usual &quot;knobbies&quot;. These slicks can be in the typical 1.95&quot; mountain bike tire diameter, or you can go narrower down to 1.75&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the bikes in the garage which needs brakes, seats, tires and possibly gears; those are not very expensive items. Tires are about twenty dollars; used seats in good condition can be had for a few dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like higher gear ratios, it is not expensive to swap a casette or freehub. Find out which one your bikes use. Probably, I would guess, these mountain bikes have thread-on freehubs that remove with a FR-1 tool (which should cost under $10, and needs a big wrench to go with it). A new freewheel hub costs about $20 to $30, and gives you an opportunity to increase the gear ratios. The swap is a five minute job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, once the repair budget for some cheap old mountain bike surpasses about $50, it quickly stops making sense. Instead of spending $100 on maintenance, you can get something newer and in better condition for $75 and spend $25 on it, ending up with a better bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much is your time worth? Many DIY-ers make the mistake of treating their labor as being free, and only counting the cost of tools and materials! &quot;Look at the bike I put together with a $100 budget!&quot; (And with only 20 hours of my &quot;free&quot; time put in). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T18:24:40.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17902" CreationDate="2013-10-03T20:09:01.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for locking suspension uphill is efficiency converting the power you produce into forward momentum. If you are losing forward momentum by slipping, its because you have too much power going to the rear wheel.  This needs to only be for a very short (instantaneous) burst. Once traction is lost, it takes a lot to regain it. Give this, there is no benefit in locked out suspension under these situations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, all else being equal, uphill slippery conditions set suspension as hard as you can without slipping. On tree roots, that is probably as soft as it will go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technique is really important. You need to ride smoothly and in control of power. You need to predict when the rear wheel is rolling over the tree root and reduce power till over it. High cadence helps as long as you can maintain smooth power. Use momentum to carry you over the root, power up when you have traction and power down before you loose it. Reduce weight on the wheels as they hit the tree root to allow it to roll over smoothly (critical on a hardtail, but helps with softtails). Ideally don't hit a root with front and back at the same time, pick your path to avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lifting front wheel and loss of control is caused by too much torque (power) on the back wheel - the same smooth controlled power delivery to climb roots will prevent this. Depending on your bike setup and riding style, you will eventually get to the point you cannot ride up the hill without lifting the front wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front suspension should not be pushing up fast enough (rebound) to cause you to lift the wheel. If it is, adjust you rebound (if you have it). If the trail is ride able, you won't topple backwards unless you do something silly and are completely out of control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T20:09:01.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17902" CreationDate="2013-10-03T20:09:20.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suspension will not change your overall traction. That is determined by your weight and weight distribution, the tire material and the surface you're riding on, and the contact patch size (determined by tire pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What suspension improves is the compliance to an uneven surface for better handling, and of course it improves your comfort. These things only matters when you're going fast, hitting numerous bumps every second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, sure, if your front fork is compressed by, say, four inches, then the front has to lift by four inches before the tire loses actual contact. But that is academic; you lose traction before you lose contact. As the fork decompresses due to shifting weight, the force exerted by the tire on the ground lessens. The same thing happens with a hard fork too, as you shift the weight toward the rear; the hard for just does not move up and down with varying weight to show you what is happening. The suspension fork essentially serves as a measurement gauge telling you how much you're shifting weight toward the front or rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T20:09:20.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2013-10-03T20:17:47.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Baltimore, Maryland&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are permitted on the light rail and the metro, except if it's very crowded - which generally corresponds with when there is an Orioles or Ravens game happening. Almost every light rail, metro, and MARC stop has bike racks at the stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTA buses have racks that can fit 2 bikes. A bicycle is not allowed on board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MARC trains permit only folding bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://mta.maryland.gov/sites/default/files/MTA-Bicycles-Brochure-2011.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mta.maryland.gov/sites/default/files/MTA-Bicycles-Brochure-2011.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8303" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T20:17:47.093" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-10-03T20:17:47.093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17922" CreationDate="2013-10-03T20:40:18.113" Score="6" ViewCount="2424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use cheap flat pedals, aluminum or plastic. They lasts about a year (1K-2K kms) before dying (cracking noises at each stroke).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind paying US$10 each year, but it hurts my eco-heart: I want to recicle, to repair and not pollute the Earth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long should pedals last? Do serviceable pedals last longer? May I try to repair non-serviceable ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T22:37:14.563" Title="How long should pedals last?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17913" CreationDate="2013-10-03T21:53:33.570" Score="5" ViewCount="2855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build an electronically controlled automatic bike transmission for my senior design project. I'm personally more of an electrical guy, so dealing with the mechanics is somewhat new to me. I would have loved to use an off-the-shelf electronic derailleur, but alas, they are too cost prohibitive (the school has allotted a budget of $115 per student and we're a group of two, so we have $230 to spend). So I'm going to need to make my own like several other people have done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on using the bike's current derailleurs and replacing the hand shifters with motors of some sort to pull on the cables. Of course, we're going to need a certain amount of torque to shift up (and much less for shifting down) and a holding torque to ensure that we don't accidentally slip down a gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not bought a bike yet, I'm looking at a Diamondback bike that I found on Craigslist (it looks like a hybrid bike). So I'm wondering if there are any average measurements for the required torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, I'm sure there are many people more experienced in bicycling than I am. So if you have a better solution, please feel free to shout it out. I'm all ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8304" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T11:47:36.160" Title="(Automatic Bike Project) amount of torque required to change gears?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17912" CreationDate="2013-10-03T22:46:37.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From working on bikes, the amount of force needed to pull a gear cable is more than I can apply gripping the cable with my fingers, but is easy to apply gripping the cable with pliers. So probably about 10-20N. But almost all that force is required to oppose the return spring in the derailleur. Remove that spring and the force drops by an order of magnitude. And as Kibbee says, you can use leverage to change that force (but you still need the same amount of energy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy way would be to use an existing gear cable and gear lever attached to the rear derailleur. That way you don't have to mount your motor right down next to the rear axle, where it's vulnerable to shock and dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a winch drum attached to a stepper motor it'll be fairly easy to make everything work. The issue with that is that the holding torque will almost certainly be greater than the stiction of the motor, so you would need power to stay in gear. Or gear down the stepper motor, or use a mechanical brake with a solenoid to release it when you want to shift. But that's possibly more complex than a student project can easily build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different way would be to use a common two-lever shifter with a motor to push the levers when you want to change gear. That's a low-precision task, but you will need considerable force. If you used a fairly hefty RC servo motor I think it could work, and within budget. Then drive that off a microprocessor that has a PWM output to make the servo work (there are Arduino libraries that do this OOB, it's not hard)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much more elegant way would be to modify a derailleur directly, removing the return spring and using a motor to move it backwards and forwards. This is what the electronic shifter setups do. If you use a stepper motor and drive &quot;off the end&quot; to position it, you should get reasonable reliability at low cost and without having to build sensors and servo rigs to locate the chain exactly on the drive cog. I fear you might need a brake again, but I'd build the first version without it. At worst, you can do your final report saying &quot;it works but needs a lock to hold it in position over bumps&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-10-03T23:59:45.630" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T23:59:45.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-04T00:20:48.863" Score="2" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Kent Glendale with dual front suspension. The top half of the fork is turned around so the right shock was installed into the left stanchion and vice-versa. and I cannot figure out how to remove the lower half of the fork. There are no screws on the outside, just a rubber stopper at the top of each stanchion tube and a nylon split washer at each joint. Looking down through the tubes, it's just a black hole for several inches.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/73LT7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mis-assembly puts wheel too far back&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJwsH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;How does this joint come apart?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8305" LastEditorUserId="8305" LastEditDate="2013-10-04T11:38:57.787" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T21:07:41.803" Title="Treacherous ride - top half of fork points backwards, but the bottom points forward" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17911" CreationDate="2013-10-04T03:07:29.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they're not made very well and/or you expose them to harsh weather or dirt they could be destroyed the first time you ride them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Properly made pedals that are looked after should last longer than the bike they're attached to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy good ones and keep them properly greased/etc they should never need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4564" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-10-04T16:22:38.347" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T16:22:38.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17905" CreationDate="2013-10-04T04:34:18.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that it is not likely to be cost efficient, as the end result would not match the experience of whatever bikes you rode on vacation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, you should be aware that, even if you change every component on a mountain bike, the frame will still have mountain bike geometry.  Geometry has a large effect on your riding position, bike handling and the overall &quot;feel&quot;, which seems to have been a factor in your enjoying the bikes on vacation. For example, putting slick tires on a mountain bike will reduce rolling resistance slightly, but you'll still be in the same riding position and the bike's handling won't feel drastically different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Huffy bikes are generally quite low end bikes as well.  You didn't specify the age of the bikes, but it sounds like they've been sitting around unused for a while. If you take off the components you mentioned, then essentially what you will have are a low-end out-of-date frame and wheels.  If you can get the bikes back into working order without investing too much money, then I'd say just ride them and fix them until they die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final consideration is whether the bikes are actually the right size for you as well: a correctly sized bike which has been adjusted for your individual dimensions makes a world of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T04:34:18.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-04T08:02:45.580" Score="1" ViewCount="2987" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an english-thread, octalink Shimano bottom bracket, and a new frame. The frame has been faced before painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure the BB is compatible with the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When trying to install the BB, I &lt;strong&gt;greased the thread&lt;/strong&gt;, screwed in the driver-side cup and tightened it. I do not have dynamometric wrench, so I just &lt;strong&gt;torqued hard, but not as hard as not to be able to undo it&lt;/strong&gt;. Then repeated for the non-drive side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearings had became &lt;strong&gt;stuck&lt;/strong&gt; - only with great force could one spin the axis. I &lt;strong&gt;loosened both cups about one revolution each, until the axis began moving freely&lt;/strong&gt;. Now both cups have some threaded surface visible. The cups are not tight at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Are stuck bearings when over-tightening the cups normal? The free cup (non-drive side) looks like it can go all the way inside the frame. Have I set my BB correctly?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;This is my exact BB. I have identified the problem. The non-drive side cup presses against the white seal. The seal is stuck to the axis (which I think it should be), and sandwiching it between the cup and the BB body fixes it's movable flange causes excessive friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am leaving the installation as described above. Will ride it a couple of hundred kilometres and report if any problems occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYl1Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-10-16T09:50:11.790" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T09:50:11.790" Title="How tight should a threaded BB be?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-04T09:21:36.550" Score="1" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road bikes are built to face different challenges than MTBs. Does this lead to difference in the crank strenght versus weight optimization? Will road cranks tackle to the occasional bump onto a stone on the trail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T22:34:16.530" Title="Are road cranks less strudy than comparatevely priced MTB cranks?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17911" CreationDate="2013-10-04T10:01:11.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increase your budget until you can afford second hand pedals with cup-and-cone bearings, then spend a few bucks servicing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DMR's V8 and V12 models are very popular and have been the same for years. The V12 typically has better seals and lighter materials than the V8, but both are serviceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a guide on servicing the DMR V8:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://steveukmtb.wordpress.com/dmr-v8-pedal-overhaul-cup-and-cone/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://steveukmtb.wordpress.com/dmr-v8-pedal-overhaul-cup-and-cone/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got Wellgo's V8 clones via eBay for 7GBP delivered (about 10USD?). I don't know if they're the same internally but they might be an option if you cant get pre-loved DMRs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T10:01:11.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17917" CreationDate="2013-10-04T10:55:09.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most components will have an instruction sheet detailing the reccomended torque. This is typically measured in Nm (newton meters). Torque wrenches can also be purchased that show you how much torque you apply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some components even have the reccomended torque value on the component itself.&#xA;Checking other components will give you an indication of the difference in required torque in relation to your BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T10:55:09.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17911" CreationDate="2013-10-04T13:53:41.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to have the same problem. My pedals would last about 2000 miles, then the inner bearing would fail, which is what makes the cracking noises you refer to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finally raised the devil with my Trek dealer about the cheap parts he was selling me, and he came up with a set of pedals made by VP Components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 differences between these pedals and the ones I was using. First, the inner bearing on this pedal is a brass bushing, not a ball bearing. Second, this pedal has a dirt/water seal to protect the inner bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using these for at least 15,000 miles now, and they are still as good as new, and they didn't cost any more than the cheap pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy a new pedal, turn the pedal's axel. It should turn with perfect smoothness. If you feel any sort of catching, it is using very cheap ball bearings, and it isn't worth installing on your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7875" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T13:53:41.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17914" CreationDate="2013-10-04T15:06:25.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a little Google research of this bike, you can see that the fork is assembled correctly. What's going on is that the crown (the part the stanchions attach to) is bent/twisted or the steer tube (the tube that runs through to the handlebars) is bent. Either way, you're going to need some mechanic work or a new fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, you can probably remove the stanchions from the crown, but judging by the amount of rust in your pictures, they're probably fairly stuck by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T15:06:25.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17926" CreationDate="2013-10-04T15:42:41.863" Score="-1" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any info on the make, style, similar bikes, where to buy etc would be very much appreciated, thanks....&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bdI1G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8308" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T17:26:55.870" Title="What kind of bike is this?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17903" CreationDate="2013-10-04T16:46:01.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the exception of the new electronic stuff, every shifter out there that isn't the old friction style works on a ratchet and spring mechanism to index the amount of cable being pulled or released. Is that what you are asking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-10-06T05:33:06.273" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T05:33:06.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17924" CreationDate="2013-10-04T17:26:55.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a Bobbin Kingfisher: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobbinbikes.co.uk/wordpress/bobbin-kingfisher/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bobbinbikes.co.uk/wordpress/bobbin-kingfisher/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Linus and Public also make very similar bikes. Public ships direct, I am unsure about Linus and Bobbins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T17:26:55.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-04T19:25:20.000" Score="5" ViewCount="6606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cycle a track bike and want to do some training over the winter. After a bit of research I've decided to go with rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't used them before but I'm sure with a bit of perseverance I'll get the hang of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget is €400 max inc. delivery and I think that resistence will be necessary considering the lack of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've boiled it down to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CycleOps Aluminium Rollers with Resistance Unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elite V-Arion Parabolic Inertial Rollers with Integrated Resistance Unit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like how simple the CycleOps look and the option of using outdoors but am mildly worried that the non-parabolic rollers will be a lot more difficult and that I wouldn't be able to watch tv etc. eventually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Would you say that parabolic rollers only lessen the learning curve and are much the same as standard rollers after, or are they always easier?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8310" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T02:41:18.553" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T21:18:22.803" Title="How easy are Parabolic v. Standard Rollers to use?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17927" CreationDate="2013-10-04T20:54:26.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never ridden parabolic rollers myself but I do have a pair of cylindrical pvc rollers. It takes a bit of practice, but after a short amount of time I was able to watch tv quite easily from my cylindrical rollers. A bit after that, I was able to sit up, lean back down, take a drink, and ride with one hand or one foot while watching tv. Not all at the same time, obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is my understanding that parabolic rollers are easier to learn to ride simply because you can't ride off the edges. However, riding off the sides isn't a big deal. The bike comes to an immediate stop. The friction of your tires isn't enough to overcome your body's lack of inertia. You smell burnt rubber and may leave burn marks on your carpet, but that's about it. If you put a towel under the rollers, you won't have to worry about the carpet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to consider is the diameter of the riding surface of the rollers. I believe that on average parabolic rollers are smaller than cylindrical rollers. Smaller rollers heat up more quickly and as a result are harder on tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've really only addressed the issues between parabolic and cylindrical rollers here because that seems to be the brunt of your question. For a more comprehensive disucssion of rollers, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2405/what-should-i-look-for-when-buying-rollers&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and the questions that are linked to in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/2438/4239&quot;&gt;accepted answer&lt;/a&gt; on that question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T20:54:26.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17911" CreationDate="2013-10-04T22:37:14.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy better pedals. I bought a kind of hybrid - clipless on one side, platform on the other, fully metal - and they've lasted me 4300 km this year with no visible damage other than some scratches. Judging by their state, I think they'll last me at least 2-3 more years of intense use. And they cost the equivalent of $50 dollars, which really isn't that much if you think about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8311" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T22:37:14.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16700" CreationDate="2013-10-04T23:11:31.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that you're having this problem with the front rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear cogs these days often implement a system invented by Shimano called &quot;Hyperglide&quot;. It's a set of ramp-like grooves carved into the cogs which allows the chain to derail easily and engage two cogs at the same time, greatly easing downshifting, even under load. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/news_and_info/shimano_technology/hyperglide_technology.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(Video)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a different &quot;Hyperdrive&quot; system for chainrings, which is less ubiquitous. It involves some &quot;in between teeth&quot; that engage the chain. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/news_and_info/shimano_technology/hyperdrive_technology.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(Video)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For minimum shifting fuss, get a bike which has hyperdrive in the front, hyperglide in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, Hyperglide cogs are very common on bicycles, seen on even low-end bikes. On the other hand, Hyperdrive is less commonly seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're on a bike with only Hyperglide (very likely case), and you have to shift while climbing a hill, use the rear shifter first. Then, if necessary, downshift the front.   If you down-shift the rear cogs as much as possible, you reduce the load on the chain, as well as spin the pedals faster, both of which facilitate the front shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There will always be some rattling when you shift the front rings under load.&lt;/strong&gt; This is because the movement is done by a crude metal guide which simply pushes on the chain sideways. A chain that is taut due to the intense tension of climbing a hill is hard to displace. You cannot have a chunk of metal pushing on a tight, moving bicycle chain without a clattering sound that endures for at least several seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the chain coming off the front rings goes, that is a problem you cannot entirely eliminate in the mechanism. That is, not without some downside. If you set the range-limiting trim screws so strictly that the chain never comes off no matter what, it will be be more difficult to shift into some gear combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix is to get either a friction-based shifter for the front rings, or an indexed twist shifter.  These types of shifters let you easily play with in-between positioning during a shift as well as control the speed of the shift and the amount of force applied.  This is necessary because the amount of displacement needed to move from one ring to another depends on the angle of the chain, which depends on which gear is engaged in the rear.  At least for the front rings, stay away from the trigger shifter type which is semi-automatic and takes shifting control away from you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T23:11:31.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11193" CreationDate="2013-10-05T04:07:25.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rockshox have three different damper compression systems and remote kits. It is possible that if you have a compatible kit you could transfer it. You have to swap the standard motion control compression damper for a remote motion control compression damper. This wouldn't require any special tools but would require a reasonable level of ability. It may also involve topping up specialised suspension oil if any is lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The systems are PushLoc, PopLoc and XLoc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PushLoc for Revelation, Reba, and SID with Motion Control DNA&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PopLoc for Tora XC, Recon Silver, Recon XC, Recon Gold and Sektor&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;XLoc for Revelation, 2012 SID WC, Reba, SID 120&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T04:07:25.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-05T04:14:25.980" Score="0" ViewCount="1366" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any experience with this bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gubchina.en.alibaba.com/productshowimg/704228598-212622838/Full_carbon_fiber_29er_suspension_mountain_bike_with_Deore_XT_30_speed_groupset.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Full carbon fiber 29er suspension mountain bike with Deore XT 30 speed groupset&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ij1cs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy my first expensive mountain bike and trying to decide between this and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/trance.sx.27.5/14834/66295/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Giant Trance sx 27.5&lt;/a&gt;. Also, on the bike above, can someone tell me what the rear suspension travel is? Is it possible that it is just 37.5 mm?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;DT Swiss M212 Rear Shocks - Eye to eye:165m/m, Travel:37.5m/m, Alloy,&#xA;  Black anodized, Air, Elastomer negativ spring, Oil damping, Rebound,&#xA;  Lockout&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride on Arabian mountains.. don't do a lot of jumps, but need to climb and descend very rough, dry and rocky rocky sections. Can somebody have a look at the specs and tell me if it is a good bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you so much for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8313" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T22:23:28.753" Title="Full carbon fiber 29er suspension mountain bike from AliBaba" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-10-05T16:59:19.753" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2013-10-05T04:28:35.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the new Autobike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autobike.tv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.autobike.tv&lt;/a&gt;. It uses a CVT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8314" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T04:28:35.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17933" CreationDate="2013-10-05T15:04:38.640" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask yourself this- would you buy a car off of Alibaba to save a few bucks, or would you fork over a little more money and buy a Honda/Toyota/whatever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy the name brand bike. If your Alibaba bike's headtube snaps off on a gnarly high speed descent, who's going to do something about it? Not Alibaba, and good luck getting the manufacturer from god knows where to do anything about the catastrophic failure of their no-name bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying the bike pictured is a total gamble, not just in terms of your money, but in terms of your safety as well. Play it safe, pay a little more, and stick with the Giant- they've got a great reputation, they make great bikes, and they back them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alibaba is for widgets. A bike is not a widget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-10-05T22:23:28.753" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T22:23:28.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17927" CreationDate="2013-10-05T18:17:29.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rollers are simple to learn and parabolic ones shouldn't be necessary unless your TV-viewing is likely to be so diverting that you won't be attentive. Parabolic ones in those circumstances will keep you on the straight and narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rollers are noisy though; add in a decent fan (essential for anything over 20mins in my experience) and you'll need a very loud TV (or ear-phones), and distant neighbours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the main attractions of rollers to my mind is their simplicity. Resistance units add complexity and not much flexibility (just two settings on CycleOps). You might want to consider an old road-bike, set up for and dedicated to, the rollers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I myself blogged on such matters at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vavaveteran.co.uk/snow-matter-i-have-rollers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vavaveteran.co.uk/a-new-beginning/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-05T20:08:44.010" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T20:08:44.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17918" CreationDate="2013-10-05T22:34:16.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, road cranks are lighter because they use less material than mtb cranks. Mtb cranks use more material so they can handle more abuse. Compatibility aside, I would be cautious in using road cranks for much more than cyclocross duty. You may never have a problem, but do you really want to find out the hard way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T22:34:16.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17914" CreationDate="2013-10-05T22:37:58.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That for is not mis-assembled, it is bent. It's damaged and probably dangerous to ride. Throw it away and get a new one. It will likely cost less than $100 installed. Small price to pay for your safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T22:37:58.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17872" CreationDate="2013-10-05T22:47:53.977" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are tubeless tire boots available that you can use to patch a puncture that sealant won't seal. Really, you can use the standard vulcanizing tube patch kit as well and it's cheaper. Just &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; use the glueless type- they barely fix a tube, let alone a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixing a tubeless puncture that won't seal is an at home operation, though. You have to clean all the sealant off of the area, let it dry, apply glue, apply the patch, add sealant back and reseat the tire. Reseating the tire without a compressor is a crapshoot- you may get it with a floor pump, you may not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're running tubeless you still need to carry a tube with you for that reason. There's basically no good way to fix a tubeless tire trailside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T22:47:53.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17946" CreationDate="2013-10-06T01:58:03.513" Score="1" ViewCount="1196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a bike computer about a couple of months back; which is a Cateye CC-RD420DW. Now this computer is supposed to provide a cadence and a heart rate monitoring, but the heart rate sensor is sold separately (i.e. Cateye HR-10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I've looked for this heart rate sensor, but it's just too expensive. It costs almost as much as the computer bundled with the cadence sensor itself. Which brings me to My question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other generic compatible sensors that can work with My computer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Timex and a Polar heart rate monitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to configure a different sensor to work with the computer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8320" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T16:06:18.407" Title="Compatible heart rate sensors for CC-RD420DW" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15134" CreationDate="2013-10-06T07:01:47.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many apps available on all smartphone platfroms based on Open Street Map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On iOS I have had very good experience using MotionX GPS. It's cheap and feature packed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quality of the OSM maps will vary from incredibly good to useless, depending where you're travelling. MotionX can fetch data from other sources and can even be used without any map at all (eg: ocean navigation) so it's still the right choice even if the OSM maps aren't very good where you're travelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to battery, you can buy waterproof/shockproof cases with a built in battery that will significantly extend battery life. But they're very expensive. You can also buy just an external battery pack, which plugs into the dock connector and will give you an extra charge or two - these are fairly cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4564" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T07:01:47.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17942" CreationDate="2013-10-06T16:06:18.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cateye uses proprietary sensors, so I'm afraid that generic ANT+ sensors won't work.  Although it's possible someone has made a copycat sensor that works with Cateye, I doubt it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T16:06:18.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-06T17:25:35.213" Score="0" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am willing to buy a new mtb.But i am totally confused about which brake to choose.I want to do daily communication by my mtb. and also often want to do stunts.in this circumstances which kind of brake is best for me???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8323" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T11:26:47.360" Title="Disk Brake or V Brake" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-10-07T13:34:41.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-06T18:33:47.140" Score="2" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time posting on this site so bear with me. I've got a 2009 Fuji Tahoe Comp 29er MTB with upgraded SRAM x.7 components and I'm having a couple issues. It is currently set up as a 1x9 and on gears 2-4 and sometimes 5 I'm having severe slippage when under pressure. Back in June I had pretty much the entire drivetrain replaced (front chain ring, bashguard, rear cassette, and chain) and had it tuned up for the summer. I took a pretty hard fall a month or so ago and bent my wheel a bit. I've since had the wheel re-trued and it's just fine and also had the derailleur hanger replaced because it was bent in the fall. My LBS stated that everything was fixed and I shouldn't have any more slippage. It rode fine on flat ground but as soon as I hit uphill terrain and rocks, I started slipping and it basically ruined my whole ride because the technical trails in my area require a lot of lower gears. Anyways, I was wondering if there was anything I could do to fix this. All my higher gears work just fine and the sprockets that are slipping don't show any wear (not rounded off at all or bent) so I doubt it's the cassette. The chain seems fine as well. The LBS I originally took it to said that I may need to replace the derailleur in the near future, which could very well be the issue, but seeing as though they couldn't fix the problem in the first place and that they don't really have a reputation for top notch work I take their opinion with a grain of salt. Please feel free to let me know if there's anything I can do, short of replacing the derailleur, to resolve this problem. I'm dying to get back on the saddle now that the weather has cooled. I'm also back in school and out of work again so the cheaper the better (can't really afford to spend $120 to replace the derailleur). Thanks for your time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Little more about what's going on: When I have the bike off the ground and proceed to pedal, when the chain slips it seems to bounce back and forth between the rear cassette and the bottom cog of the derailleur if that makes sense. The gears shift just fine with no problems, it is only when under pressure like going uphill where slippage occurs. I take good care of my stuff and I degrease and re-lubricate the drivetrain after just about every ride so it shouldn't be gummed up too much. I want to avoid taking it back to the LBS unless I absolutely have to, so let me know if you have any suggestions for me or if you have any more in depth questions about the bike and whats going on. Any help whatsoever is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8324" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T09:54:15.797" Title="Chain Slippage on MTB" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2591" CreationDate="2013-10-06T19:24:33.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike with pull brakes, squeal like crazy...New pads, clean rims, adjusted well, still squeal. Roughed up pads, still squeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I put alittle baby powder on each side of Rim, just a dusting. I put a little baby power in palm of hand, take finger, dab in powder and rub some on the rim, each side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixed my brakes, stops good and no squeals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8325" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T19:24:33.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17948" CreationDate="2013-10-06T20:52:23.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought that with a new drive train this would be either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bent derailleur hanger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear shifter cable has an issue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have had the hanger replaced recently I would tend to think that it was likely that it is a cable issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I would do is inspect the cable and make sure it is moving freely in the housing and there is no fraying or bends and that the end caps are all seated well in the cable guides. The more likely thought (and timing for this would also seem right) is that the cable has stretched and this is the cause of the slippage under pressure. There are barrel adjusters on your shifters which allow you to fine tune the indexing between the cogs (the H and L screws set the outer limits). There are many different ways to do this but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tools&lt;/a&gt; provide a helpful guide here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption (without seeing it) is that a new RD would not need to replaced so soon unless something was visibly broken or bent beyond repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T20:52:23.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17914" CreationDate="2013-10-06T21:07:41.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like this bike has been run into the read of a stopped car. It may be cracked at the top of the form blades, at the crown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;REPLACE!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8326" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T21:07:41.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-06T21:52:03.483" Score="3" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son (teenager) has a second-hand Zombie bmx style bike - it's designed for kids, but as far as I can see the frame size is the same as any bmx. It needed a bit of messing around with, I've already replaced the wheels, which were fairly nasty pretend mags whose rims deformed whenever the tyres were inflated. What I'm now wondering is - the frame, like a lot of kids' bikes, is bulky and heavy. Is there a any reason why I couldn't transpose everything onto a different frame? Or am I missing an obvious incompatibility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love bikes, but as you can probably tell, bmx-s are foreign territory for me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8327" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T13:31:55.070" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T13:31:55.070" Title="rebuilding/frankenbike query" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17952" CreationDate="2013-10-06T22:42:49.810" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unequivocally, yes, you can - it's just a matter of whether or not it's worth it to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without seeing pictures or details: to avoid unnecessary added expense, you'll want to stick with frames that have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The same head tube diameter, so you don't have to replace the headset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The same bottom bracket shell width (usually 68mm or 73mm), so you don't have to replace it and/or the crankset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The same rear brake mounts, so you don't have to replace that too (V-Brake/Braze-ons lower than the rim, U-Brake/Braze-ons higher than the rim, or cantilever/a hole in the center, disk brakes/two holes on the non-drive side near the hub). However, I'd probably go with V-Brake mounts and replace the rear brake if it has anything but disk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The same seat tube diameter, so you can re-use the seatpost and clamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T22:42:49.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-06T23:20:28.253" Score="1" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am rebuilding a Trek Mountain Bike model 6500 built in 2005.  I don't see a model number on the Shimano Deore rear 8 speed derailleur that needs replacing.  Is there a hidden model number somewhere on the unit, or do I just need to replace it with a standard Shimano Deore unit?  How do I know what to order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T13:32:13.243" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T13:32:13.243" Title="Trek 6500 rear derailleur" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-07T00:42:42.173" Score="2" ViewCount="1817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a number of posts about stopping discs from squealing, but mine don't always squeal, when the squealing starts it doesn't stop (as if something has worn off) and it's not worn out pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it true that some makes and models of discs just squeal? If so, time to change brake manufacturer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it true that different compound pads will make the squealing stop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8329" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T02:58:46.853" Title="how do i stop my Formula disk brakes from squealing" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17954" CreationDate="2013-10-07T01:43:44.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for an exact replacement the part # will be stamped on the inside (wheel side) of the parallelogram linkage. This is the middle section of the derailleur it is the part between the mounting or &quot;B&quot; knuckle and the jockey wheel cage. The numbers will be small and are read more easily with the derailleur off the bike. It should begin with RD followed by four digits or RD M followed by three digits. You will also want to measure the distance between the jockey wheel mounting bolts to get the correct cage length as this will effect tooth/gear capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T02:05:13.257" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T02:05:13.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-07T02:11:57.493" Score="8" ViewCount="38775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2 year old Diamondback bike with gears that have already rusted while living in the desert southwest.  I'm not sure how or if they can be cleaned.  Also, was something I should have done to keep them from rusting?  Any advice would be helpful!  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8331" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T18:14:14.283" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T18:14:14.283" Title="How to remove rust from gears?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17956" CreationDate="2013-10-07T02:30:48.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer is don't throw out you brakes just yet and a different material MIGHT make the squealing stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are experiencing is quite typical. Mine are really bad sometimes if they are wet or have dust on them. A few max effort stops fixes it. Steps to address, in a rough order based on cost and hassle factor, and no guarantee of success...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a nice steep down hill and do a half dozen or more max effort stops from the fastest speed to can get up to. (safety warning bla bla bla). If that does not work, repeat after emptying you water bottle over the disc. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Realign the brake calipers &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean the discs with meths/white petrol etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you can be bothered trying it, 'burn' the pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;polish the discs and pads with a very fine (400 or 600) wet and dry sand paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace the pads with Organic ones.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace the disc rotors &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm out of suggestion, buy some ear plugs......&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T18:14:42.420" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T18:14:42.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17958" CreationDate="2013-10-07T03:27:29.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends how rusted they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's just surface rust, then my answer to both questions is the same: oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of folks like high tech lubricant sprays, but since you seem to be a low maintenance person I suggest to give everything that moves some auto engine oil, so that it has a good, sticky coating. The regular oil you use should be light machine oil, such as sewing machine oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give those rusty parts a rub with an oily cloth; you'll probably find it mostly rubs off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you move everything that is supposed to move, several times, so the oil gets in between those moving surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason most people would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; use engine oil is that being sticky, dirt sticks to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any maintenance issue, if in doubt get it checked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T03:27:29.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17202" CreationDate="2013-10-07T07:24:01.333" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;GPX files are XML files, which means you can edit them in a text editor. I use Notepad++ on Windows and TextWrangler on OSX, but you should be able to use the built-in Notepad or TextEdit. Don't use a word processor like Word or OpenOffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the second GPX file in a text editor. Copy all the stuff between &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;trk&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;/trk&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; inclusive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the first GPX file in a text editor. Paste the copied stuff after the &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;/trk&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; line near the end of the first file and save.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have more files, repeat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T12:53:15.987" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T12:53:15.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17958" CreationDate="2013-10-07T10:48:42.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;gears&quot; I assume you're talking about the rear sprockets, or perhaps the smallest front sprocket, since they're about the only &quot;gears&quot; that are made of steel.  And they shouldn't get rusty if properly oiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little rust won't hurt the sprockets.  Just oil the chain with good chain oil and it will transfer to the sprockets fairly readily -- the rust will wear off with a little use.  More worrisome is the chain itself, since a little rust &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; hurt a chain, causing &quot;frozen links&quot; and accelerating wear.  Again, oil it with proper bike chain oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T10:48:42.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17947" CreationDate="2013-10-07T11:26:47.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disk brakes hands down. V-brakes are difficult to adjust, can get misaligned and destroy tire and rim (happens to me, very quickly). Disk brakes allows you to change your wheels easily and works even when wet and muddy. With v-brakes you always have the problem of different pad-to-rim separation for left and right pads due to differences in springs tension. Disk brakes works even if your wheel is wobbly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, disk brakes (and overall weight) were the main reason for switching from supermarket steel MTB to a real aluminum MTB costing 4x more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T11:26:47.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17968" CreationDate="2013-10-07T12:27:30.503" Score="2" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding my Trek Fuel Ex 8 for a few years now, and as I have improved, I have been attacking more challenging terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have started to notice a problem in my rear mech - the link arm screw that holds the mech to the dropout seems to slip and cause the whole derailleur to swing forward until the cogs are sandwiching the chain against the sprocket. Now I'm no doctor, but I can easily say that sort of cramping is bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the trail, where this mainly happens, I have been able to repair the system by pulling the whole mech back as far as it will go (there seems to be some sort of physical block or stop in place, so I don't think I'm going too far) and tightening the screw that is allowing the slippage.&#xA;Now that seems like problem solved, right? My question is this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, is that the correct procedure to reposition and fix the mech, or am I doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, how tight must this screw be? Wrenching it as hard as I sensibly and safely can with a park tool only holds for a while, and then the problem repeats. Also, how would you measure tightness? (I feel like there is an obvious answer there that I should know already...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, given the problem occurs on the trail, and specifically I think on landings and rough patches, is there something in my riding style that could help prevent damage. Advice is welcome, but I'm not an absolute beginner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any help on this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T15:12:47.083" Title="Derailleur problems - rear mech slipping forward" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2013-10-07T13:14:58.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off wearing a ski helmet is a lot better than wearing a wooly hat and scarf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've collected a fair amount of helmets over the years, from cheap £5 to snowboard and paintball helmets and used them while riding my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the autumn-winter months I tend to wear a bandanna under my cycle helmets. Come winter it's on with the snowboarding hi-viz gear. I live in Scotland where temps can hit -25 degrees easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is stay safe. If you feel you get enough protection from the helmet go for it. Add up the pros and cons; it's your neck on the line, literally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a tip. If you walked into a winter sports shop the guy behind the counter would sell you a snowboarding helmet for cycling but a bike shop would say its not safe and guide you towards their brands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8334" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T13:26:07.943" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T13:26:07.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17964" CreationDate="2013-10-07T15:12:47.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have started to notice a problem in my rear mech - the link arm screw that holds the mech to the dropout seems to slip and cause the whole derailleur to swing forward until the cogs are sandwiching the chain against the sprocket. Now I'm no doctor, but I can easily say that sort of cramping is bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strange that this would be where things are coming loose. My recommendation is to remove the rear wheel and chain and make sure nothing else is coming loose either. If it's just the connection to the hanger, check the threads on both the derailleur and the hanger as one or the other may have damage or contaminants. Clean and lube/locktite the bolt and re-install the derailleur. If you continue to have problems, I'd have a mechanic check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Secondly, how tight must this screw be? Wrenching it as hard as I sensibly and safely can with a park tool only holds for a while, and then the problem repeats. Also, how would you measure tightness? (I feel like there is an obvious answer there that I should know already...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt; recommends 8-10 Nm or 70-86 lb-in. You can easily measure this with a torque wrench, you can get a cheap one from a hardware store or go for a more expensive one if you want something that lasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Finally, given the problem occurs on the trail, and specifically I think on landings and rough patches, is there something in my riding style that could help prevent damage. Advice is welcome, but I'm not an absolute beginner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just trying to stay smooth is about the only advice you need. And don't land to flat! That puts a lot of stress on everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T15:12:47.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-07T15:47:24.423" Score="6" ViewCount="1663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently racing a state XC MTB series and will be moving up to Cat. 2 next year. As part of my goals, I'd like to get some sponsorship for the 2014 season. I have a few questions about this though, and I'd love to hear from racers or industry employees who may deal with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Form letters&lt;/strong&gt;: Do you write a form letter/email and essentially send the same thing to every company and hope they bite? Or would it be better to personalize each?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sponsorship level&lt;/strong&gt;: How do you figure out who gets to be the primary sponsor and who gets a tiny logo on your bike? Is this done before contacting places, or after amounts/materials have been decided?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Influence of on/off the bike&lt;/strong&gt;: Obviously you are a brand ambassador of the sponsor, but how much should you emphasize your contribution when on or off the bike. Everyone will see your kit when racing, but will another helmet for dirt jumping help sell the brand too, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not trying to hit WC status in a year or anything, but I feel like being proactive is better than the &quot;look how good I am, now sponsor me&quot; approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T16:12:18.277" Title="Tips for getting sponsored as an individual racer?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2013-10-08T02:45:51.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;More fun. I've ridden a uni for 30 year, and it feels like skiing or skating. Biking, for me anyway, is just boring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in regard to another post, unis now-a-days do have disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8339" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T02:45:51.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4590" CreationDate="2013-10-08T03:05:08.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally if everything is going right: you shouldn't have this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was having this problem: The bike shifted great on the stand but performed horribly under load.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution was the frame was failing near the bottom bracket, causing the frame to flex when I was pedaling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also seen posts where a rear hub failure was the culprit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8112" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T03:05:08.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-08T03:10:17.623" Score="0" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've spent hours with my bike on the stand.  On the stand: it performs great.  When I ride, I can cause the rear gears to shift just by changing how hard I pedal  (the harder i pedal, the higher up on the cassette the chain will jump. If i let up, the chain will drop into a harder gear) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've replaced almost everything: Cables/Housing Cassette and Chain, even the rear deraillure hanger and deraillure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8112" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T03:10:17.623" Title="Problems shifting under load" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-10-08T13:30:00.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7928" CreationDate="2013-10-08T03:11:28.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this trouble, and after checking the usual suspects (Replaced chain, cassette, cables, housing, and derailleur), it turned out my frame was failing near the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's the most expensive to fix: before you start replacing components, do a quick visual inspection of the frame.  Look for cracks/separations around the rear triangle.  This is a rare problem, but could be the most serious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you determine your frame is fine: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your drivetrain is in good shape (not overly worn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your cables move with ease and don't need replaced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your derailleur hanger is straight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your cassette is tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8112" LastEditorUserId="8112" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T03:53:17.780" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T03:53:17.780" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-08T03:22:07.323" Score="2" ViewCount="1615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride pretty aggressively cross country and trail in colorado, and occasionally will go to the bike park and do some jumps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a specialized hardrock 29er for my wife, who's a novice rider.  The price was right, and the bike is great for her.  The problem is I want to ride it sometimes, but the fork sketches me out.  First: it sucks compared to my fox fork on my 26&quot; bike and second: I'm afraid it's going to break on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork is an 80mm SR suntour.  Does anybody have any suggestions for reasonably priced replacements? I don't want to change the geometry too much.  I think the idea is if i put some money into the fork, we could put it on her next bike if/when she decides to upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8112" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T14:41:10.247" Title="Fork replacement for SR Suntour 29er" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-08T03:58:30.463" Score="6" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;The large chainring on my mountain bike is missing a number of teeth on one side (apparently the side I like to go over rocks on). Is it harmful to the drivetrain to ride without these if I'm not having issues loosing the chain?  At what point should i replace the chain ring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8112" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T17:28:02.477" Title="At what point does one need to replace a chain ring on a mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-10-08T08:41:26.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've solved my problem by putting an electric motor (BionX) on my trike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work inside a dairy cooler in Florida, so getting to work wet was a huge problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 2 weeks after I got the motor installed, I forgot to unplug before pulling out of the garage and yanked the cord and half of the fuse holder out of the charger. Over a year later, I still haven't bothered repairing it. What I do is run the motor on the way to work, and run it as a generator on the way home. This gets about 3/4 of the charge back. Topping off I do by either a longer ride, or attaching a VERY small (.1 watt) solar panel directly to the battery pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8343" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T08:41:26.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2013-10-08T09:22:32.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I taught my 32 year old Burmese friend how to bike this Summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took many weeks of trying. We started on a bike trail which goes down for 2 km. He just sat on the bike with his feet on each side and tried to roll down for as long as possible. At first he could hardly do 5 feet but he got better and better each day. Then we added pedaling to the trick but he kept getting off the trail and falling. But he got better and better with practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now he can go in the road and as long as he goes straight, he is ok. There is still lots to learn but he is able to bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8344" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T00:48:45.233" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T00:48:45.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2013-10-08T10:48:15.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was going to be a comment on Ryan's answer - which I endorse - but got too long (so I made it longer). I learnt at 20, on flat grass - a large garden, so know it can be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could do with enough space to get a reasonable speed up (not fast, but fast enough to be stable - an important bit of learning). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grass is good if it's reasonably even - check it out yourself first.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So is being able to put a foot flat down - saddle lower than normal, but not knees-to chin low.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A step-though frame will prevent tripping over the bike getting off, which is a needless distraction and demoralising after a first successful ride.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At learning speeds slightly weak (but by no means useless) brakes are no bad thing - you don't want grabby brakes when you first get to jogging speed, and on grass you'd lock the wheels, which you probably don't want to do.  This may be especially true if he's gained a fear of going over the handlebars - demonstrate that full-on braking just can't throw you over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If he's learning on something with gears, set them to sensibly low - not too low or his feet will come off the pedals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a fan of learning to balance on a downhill, unless it's a slight initial downhill with a nice flat field at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do want a bike that's big enough - the one I bought to learn (all but the first steps) on was a little too small for me, and it was only when I replaced it with something bigger that I got really confident on rough surfaces (bad tarmac, not MTB trails) and in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once he's over the basic, a gentle ride round flattish, smoothish forest trails will do wonders for his abilities - time and distance count for a lot when it comes to getting into the flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T10:48:15.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4724" CreationDate="2013-10-08T12:32:02.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminum will fail much faster than carbon and with less warning. It can develop micro-fracture from fatigue and then fail suddenly (I've had thus happen). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon failures are more noticeable starting with cracks and developing into soft regions that splinter apart. Because the failure is occurring to individual fibers it takes a little more time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no argument that steel bikes are the most durable and the easiest to repair, but there are a few American companies popping up that can repair broken or failing carbon fairly cheaply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8112" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T12:32:02.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17984" CreationDate="2013-10-08T13:01:57.417" Score="12" ViewCount="16506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've probably done about 20k on the rotors I bought the bike with. They still work fine, but are visibly worn and slightly grooved from me not replacing the pads soon enough a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know when it's time to get new rotors (apart from by finding out the hard way, of course)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T02:37:21.683" Title="When Should I replace the rotors on disk brakes?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17796" CreationDate="2013-10-08T13:20:39.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pity it's aluminium - I made a nice set of windchimes from an old steel frame that died, but I don't think aluminium would ring as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T13:20:39.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17420" CreationDate="2013-10-08T13:27:09.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother and I made an awesome slingshot with old bike tubes tied between two trees when we were kids. We used to fire dog food pellets (we were using what came to hand) right over our neighbour's yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use old tubes for bungie straps on my trailer, combined with a metal clip. Also a cheap and cheerful bike lock can be made with a length of chain inside an old tube and a padlock. My work has a bike cage, so I don' really need a D-lock, so I use one like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another one. I plaited three or four together into a great chew toy for my whippet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LEht.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LEht.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastEditorUserId="896" LastEditDate="2017-12-27T00:32:22.070" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T00:32:22.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17981" CreationDate="2013-10-08T13:39:13.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally the manufacturer of the brakes gives some minimum value for the rotor thickness. For higher prized brakes they often even provide some gauge that lets you easily check if the rotor is still thick enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically the minimum thickness might be somewhere below 2mm (I believe to remember that the absolute minimum for Magura discs should be 1.7 or 1.8 mm). But as said, this should be an information that should be in the manual fo your brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T13:39:13.513" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2013-10-08T14:16:06.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary advantage of recumbents over DF bikes is much lower wind resistance.  This is really nice for long-distance touring, but is not very important for city riding/commuting short distances.  For the latter, recumbents have several disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low profile makes it more difficult both to see and to be seen in&#xA;traffic;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can't stand up to pedal, so more difficult to stop/start&#xA;frequently;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically longer/wider than DF bikes, so more difficult&#xA;to park using standard racks;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically more expensive to buy and maintain (non-standard parts).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my area, recumbents are seen, but mainly on country roads or on recreational paths (where they are practical), not on city streets (where they are not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, while there are a few people who ride recumbents because they have a physical condition that precludes riding a DF bike, a properly-fitted DF bike is just as, or more, comfortable for the vast majority of riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8345" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T15:10:31.217" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T15:10:31.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4724" CreationDate="2013-10-08T14:29:20.563" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber often stands up to higher stresses than comparable aluminum or steel frames. You really have nothing to be worried about as long as you are buying from a reputable manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this video for more info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xreZdUBqpJs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Santa Cruz tests carbon vs aluminum frames&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice that aluminum fails under much less stress than carbon does in almost every single test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8346" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T14:29:20.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17976" CreationDate="2013-10-08T15:05:00.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While replacing any part comes down to when you want/can do it, you should replace any damaged part immediately. That's true whether you experience symptoms of failure or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Missing teeth on a chainring may not seem like a big deal until another one breaks off, causes chain slip or a dropped chain that sends you over the bars and into a tree or rock. Suddenly a missing tooth seems like a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, you should probably invest in a bashguard/ring if your knocking teeth off your chainrings!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T15:05:00.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-08T17:18:04.870" Score="6" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specificity, periodization, power meters - training for competitive cycling has changed a lot over the last  few years.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering about the effects of the movement towards training alone on the group dynamics of cycling teams, specifically local or regional amateur teams.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been lucky to have grown up around cycling and a few cycling teams.  As I recall, training used to be focused on frequently riding together not only for getting in the hours and miles in on the bike but for practicing pacelining and tactics.  Now, more and more people are training using power meters and following very specific workouts that are built around their idiosyncratic FTP and power levels.  This level of specificity makes it difficult to coordinate group rides that are relevant to the highly specified training plan.  For example, if my coach tells me to go out and do two 20 minute intervals in the Tempo Power level across a two hour ride with some 3 minute VM intervals, unless I have a riding buddy whose Tempo and VM levels are really close to mine we really can't ride together effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm curious how, or if, others are dealing with this as well?  How has the cycling team, as a social construct, had to adapt to advances in training method and technique?  Does anyone have any tips on how to build and maintain comradery and team-unity while also allowing folks the flexibility to train according to their own plan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T04:08:49.717" Title="Teams in the Age of Specificity" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17981" CreationDate="2013-10-08T20:46:17.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 14 years cycling career only once I had to replace rotor due to wear. And that rotor was 6 years old and used for heavy downhill riding in all conditions. I've gone through a lot of pads on that rotor (like 20-30 pairs). And only when I could actually feel with my fingers the groove on the surface, I replaced it. Also it started eating pads like mad - uneven breaking surface wore pads much quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say rotors is something you would not replace quite often. And rotors would not fail on you like a worn-out rims - rotors won't split easily. So for a sake of measurements, 30% thickness reduction would be a good indication to replace the poor thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T20:46:17.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17975" CreationDate="2013-10-08T20:48:59.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been there and not done that. The only option I found was to go used, but even then, its hard to get a reasonably prices upgrade. A better option for me was replace the bike. For the price of upgrading the shock (at least $400) I sold my old bike ($300) and got an 'as new' bike that was much better all round.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accept that you are choosing to ride her cheap bike. Even if you upgrade the shocks, you will be still be riding a cheap bike..... before you know it it will be Grandfathers Axe (3 new heads and 4 new handles, but its the same axe my grandad used). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T20:48:59.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17969" CreationDate="2013-10-08T22:30:33.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only ever had some pretty minor 'sponsorships' from local shops (free tune ups, discounts on gear, that sort of thing).  So I can't really speak with personal experience regarding what the meetings are like or how to approach a company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However.  I did come across this recently and found it interesting, and perhaps useful to you.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stagescycling.com/support-sponsorship&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stagescycling.com/support-sponsorship&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stages actively solicits requests from individuals or teams looking for sponsorship and they do you the favor of listing what they take into consideration.  Basically, it seems they are looking at how you will help them sell more stuff.  I thought it was interesting that they wanted links to your social networking pages, your blogs, and what you plan on doing for your local cycling community to represent their company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on that it seems they are taking a holistic look at potential recipients, not just looking at their race results but also their contributions to cycling, character, and how they conduct themselves.  It seems reasonable to assume that other companies have similar attitudes towards the athletes they are considering sponsoring.  Perhaps you can use the Stages request as a template for others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T22:30:33.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18003" CreationDate="2013-10-09T02:14:30.550" Score="2" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/handlebars/dajia-trekking-handlebar-22-2-dia-sil.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these butterfly/trekking bars&lt;/a&gt;. My possibly-mistaken sense is that the hooks most front bags and baskets rely on are designed for flat bars, such that they will be too far apart to hang from the center of the bars and too close together to hang from the far top/front of the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest a front bag or basket attachment mechanism I can look for that will work with these bars? Are there bags/baskets with adjustable-distance hooks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T17:52:15.520" Title="Front bag/basket configuration that works with butterfly/trekking bars?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;bags&gt;&lt;basket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-09T04:23:42.227" Score="3" ViewCount="8823" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to run 2x10 XT shifters on a flatbar but still want use the 10 speed 105 components of the road bike would there be any problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8352" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T15:18:47.067" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T15:31:26.770" Title="Can I run 2x10 XT Shifters on a flatbar road bike with 105 10 speed STI components?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18014" CreationDate="2013-10-09T11:04:35.167" Score="3" ViewCount="1766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm slowly turning my XC biking time into trial sessions. For now I'm only doing some track stands, endo's and wheelies, but I'm probably going to go for more as soon as I can do these properly. I'm probably never going to reach the level of Danny Macaskill, but that's for sure the kind of stuff I want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a good, trustworthy mountain bike. And I'm using it for this basic trial. Alas, I'm afraid I could badly damage it, as my wheelies landing are not as smooth as they should be, and so are my endo's. I need this bike to go to work, and it really has a high sentimental value, so I can't afford to break it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd have a few questions related to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a (non-obvious) risk I could badly damage the fork or frame of my bike by doing some badly executed trial figures? I know for a fact that my front wheel hub is already bent. How about the wheel slots?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should I decide to go for a specialised trial bike, what kind of gear should I get? I've seen some low-profile hard tail frames, they seem essential. What kind of wheel should I take (size ?), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Again, if I'm making a new bike, I'd like to keep a reasonable budget. What are the parts that &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; be of good quality, and what are these who can start &quot;small&quot; to be improved later if needs be?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Would rim brakes be sufficient for starters, or do I absolutely need huge and expensive disk brakes to start?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help. Don't hesitate to be verbose: I might have been riding for a while, it's really this year that I started maintaining my bike myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastEditorUserId="8322" LastEditDate="2013-10-09T18:49:27.043" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T00:23:15.133" Title="Building a beginner trial bike" Tags="&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17883" CreationDate="2013-10-09T11:33:48.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carry a 5D to and from work in a pannier reasonably regularly. I always take the lens off, an put it in a hard case with good foam inserts, and then it's usually packed in with my clothes etc. I wouldn't go mountain biking like this, but for road commuting I haven't had any problems with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I take larger camera gear with me - video cameras and lights and mics I put them in the trailer that I got when I was carting my young kids around. I have a piece of foam that I put on the floor to take some of the bumps, but as long as you're not thrashing it I'd say it's no worse than putting it in a car. My kids seemed to have survived being lugged to kindy a few times a week in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T11:33:48.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17976" CreationDate="2013-10-09T13:17:07.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most non-pro riders will replace the entire drive train of chain, chain rings and cluster at once because of wear-in I would wait until you do that change over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cycle on this is usually 18 months or so. YMMV depending on the muckiness where you ride and how many km you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand if you start getting chain-slip when using the ring then its probably time to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4383" LastEditorUserId="4383" LastEditDate="2013-10-09T17:28:02.477" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T17:28:02.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17975" CreationDate="2013-10-09T14:41:10.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps try for a used fork. For a decent new 29er fork you're looking at £250+ (I estimate thats around $300) (such as rockshox reba)  - or go rigid. It's sureley better than a cheap fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T14:41:10.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-09T15:40:19.930" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;What brand is this logo? Can anyone identify this? &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E1EVk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8355" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T21:20:22.393" Title="I am having trouble identifying the manufacturer of this bike" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17994" CreationDate="2013-10-09T15:45:09.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a few options for replacing your STI shifters for use with flat bars (but not the XT shifters for the reasons in the comments):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt; You can use Shimano SL-R780 Flat Bar Shifter 2x10SP shifters with 105 components on flat bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/road/flat_handlebar.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/road/flat_handlebar.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;You could get some 10 speed bar end or downtube shifters and use those with some paul's components thumbies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paulcomp.com/thumbies.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.paulcomp.com/thumbies.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt; You could get 10 speed bar end or downtube shifters and mount them on the downtube or stem with some problem solvers downtube shifter mounts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/downtube_shifter_mount1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/downtube_shifter_mount1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2013-12-09T01:05:36.203" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T01:05:36.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-09T16:27:14.690" Score="1" ViewCount="896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Dahon Vittese D7 HG, bought in Perú 1 year ago, my handlepost hinge begins to sound like crack , then I supposed that it could be because the friction between steel parts, and adjustment on my handlepost. I had the great idea to put a thinner rubber on the joint press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I am feeling some movements in my handlepost pivot point (please see photo).&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RKw4p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dahon d7hg handlepost hinge pivot point&quot;&gt;&#xA;Could it be normal? I dont remember that, because after the rubber, I feel totally silence in my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8357" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-09T17:27:16.063" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T15:20:33.733" Title="Dahon D7HG Handlepost hinge loosens pivot point" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17993" CreationDate="2013-10-09T17:52:15.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you look for a bag or basket using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://klickfix.de/index.php?lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Klickfix system&lt;/a&gt;. There are a wide variety of handlebar bags and baskets using these mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Klickfix mount is about 85mm wide. It is designed to fit either side of the stem, so for a typical stem it needs about 20mm on either side. This section of the bar has to be mostly straight, though the mount will probably fit on bars at a small angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how big a bag or basket you are using and the angle/direction of the handlebars, you may find the curves or ends of the bar get in the way of the bag. If so, you can get the Klickfix &quot;distance set&quot;. This extends the mount, so moves the bag a bit further away from the bars. Or you can adjust the angle of the mount, to position the bag above or below the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T17:52:15.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18022" CreationDate="2013-10-09T19:11:36.107" Score="11" ViewCount="44475" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started bike-commuting with my road bike I developed chronic pain in my wrists. It probably took a year to go away, and now I have been free of complaints for several years. My wife just started bike-commuting with her road bike and she started to complain about painful wrists as well. &lt;strong&gt;I assume this has to do with holding weak wrists at an angle for an extended period of time&lt;/strong&gt;. I was thinking about pointing her handlebars downward a bit, but am worried that she will slide off the grips mounted to the top of the handle bar (I don't know what those are called...) when she rides with her hands above the bar and has to brake abruptly. Something else we were thinking about trying is wrapping her wrists with elastic bandages, but we weren't sure if we were going to exacerbate or at least prolong the problem, since she would probably use her wrist muscles less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6019" LastEditorUserId="6019" LastEditDate="2013-10-09T19:40:22.443" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T13:58:56.280" Title="How to prevent wrist pain on road bikes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18013" CreationDate="2013-10-09T19:34:32.780" Score="11" ViewCount="6066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently invested in an LED front lamp with a battery pack. The results are great, it's incredibly bright and I will feel much safer with it on my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't want to blind or hinder any other road users with how bright it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car headlights are brighter but angled in a specific way, what is the correct angling (roughly) for a bike front headlight to maximise visibility whilst not impairing other road users?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6079" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T11:06:36.690" Title="Correct angle for front light?" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17999" CreationDate="2013-10-09T19:41:55.093" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The headbadge says K2. Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.k2bike.com/index.php?page=search&quot;&gt;K2 website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-10-09T21:11:37.360" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T21:11:37.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18004" CreationDate="2013-10-09T20:39:13.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like you need a bike fitting for your wife. Depending on the length of her ride (probably 2-5 miles for people not used to longer riding), she may need to work up to riding the commuting length instead of just jumping to the full commute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest checking the saddle angle (it may be too downward), raising the handlebars if possible (this may or may not be possible), and checking her posture. Another thing is some bikes have very aggressive geometries for racing - you may just need a less aggressive geometry (some cyclocross bikes, touring bikes, etc.) or switching to something like a flat bar road bike (hybrid) or an old mountain bike (I prefer flat/riser bars for commuting under 10 miles, and a more upright geometry). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has a bit more things which may be useful, so I defer to him: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T20:39:13.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17085" CreationDate="2013-10-09T20:52:50.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, the up to 26t is more so a guideline than a hard limit as is the chain wrap capacity. I'd say try the 11/28t - it will probably work, and if it doesn't work you can always put a new long cage Shimano derailleur (such as a deore one - the cable issues dont matter for road vs mountain rd's from Shimano, or a Sora if you want to stick with the road group). Of course, if you don't shift properly, there is a higher risk of things not working the way they should. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though, you probably just need to spin faster instead of higher gearing (use Sheldon Brown's gearing calculator to see the differences): &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T20:52:50.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18004" CreationDate="2013-10-09T21:07:35.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With drop bars you don't have a lot of options. Make sure she's comfortable riding on the hoods because that's IME the best position for wrist support. Often women have relatively shorter upper bodies than men of the same height, so on a bike that's the right height they're stretched forward. So she may be spending more time on the drops and flats than you expect, which will not help with wrist pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If she has or can fit flat bars, try bar grips with wrist support. The expensive-but-worth-it option is Ergon, who make a range of grips that are more or less all the same shape: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LUK1Y.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ergon gp2 grip&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/product/gp2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/product/gp2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stype of grip locks on to the handlebar (to stop it rotating) and supports the palm of your hand significantly more than a round grip does. There are cheaper versions of these around and most bikes shops should have a set. I found they did wonders for my comfort, and the silly-looking mini bar ends are great in traffic - they're just big enough that if my handlebar hits something they keep my fingers from getting crushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One slightly crazy option if you are locked into drop bars would be a flat bar with &quot;drop bar ends&quot;. That would let you mount both ergon-style wrist supports and your existing drop bar brake/shifter setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0bQY0.png&quot; alt=&quot;drop bar ends&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T21:07:35.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18004" CreationDate="2013-10-09T21:49:20.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would add to the above answers that wrist-wrapping is only a palliative; it may relieve the pain temporarily, but almost certainly won't solve the underlying problem. The pain will just come back, and the damage will worsen and become harder to heal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with Batman's suggestion of a bike fitting. Alternative handlebar designs (bullhorns, trekking bars) might also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T21:49:20.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2294" CreationDate="2013-10-09T21:51:23.227" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eprints.qut.edu.au/29579/1/29579.pdf&quot;&gt;Wood &lt;em&gt;et al.&lt;/em&gt; (2009): Drivers’ and cyclists’ experiences of sharing the road: incidents, attitudes and perceptions of visibility. Accident Analysis and Prevention, 41 (4), pp. 772-776&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About differences in the visibility as perceived by bikers and drivers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The largest difference relates to the visibility of cyclists &lt;strong&gt;using lights on their bicycles, where cyclists rate themselves as significantly more visible&#xA;  when using bicycle lights than did the drivers.&lt;/strong&gt; This difference, in turn, is much greater at night than during the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                                      Drivers       Cyclists&#xA;Flashing lights on wrists/ankles   4.03 (0.96)    4.23 (0.84)&#xA;Bicycle lights                     3.3  (1.15)    4.5  (0.67)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Visibilty on scale 1 to 5; parentheses: standard deviation.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So cyclists think they are both equivalent, with a possible small advantage for the steady light, while drivers thought the flashing lights to be more visible (but remember differences between detection and recognition, see below) to be better, but still less visible than the bikers thought the flashing light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to the distance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An analysis was also performed with regard to the average distance at which&#xA;  drivers and cyclists believed that a cyclist would be visible to a driver using low-beam headlamps at night. On average, cyclists believed themselves to be visible from 110.3 metres (sd = 157.662), while &lt;strong&gt;drivers believed a cyclist would only be visible&lt;/strong&gt; at 48.3 metres (sd = 58.69) on average&#xA;  (that is, &lt;strong&gt;at less than half the distance estimated by the&#xA;  cyclists&lt;/strong&gt;), t (1424) = - 9.247, p &amp;lt; .001. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably even more important than deciding whether flash or steady light is better, is actually using the light:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;While the use of visibility aids was advocated by cyclists, this was not reflected in self-reported wearing patterns&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*(emphases mine)s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thecochranelibrary.com/userfiles/ccoch/file/Safety_on_the_road/CD003438.pdf&quot;&gt;Cochrane review: Interventions for increasing pedestrian and cyclist visibility for the prevention of death and injuries&lt;/a&gt; is useful for background info, and they have a few comparisons of steady light vs. reflector and blinking light vs. reflector:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Blomberg 1986: A flashing light held by a pedestrian yielded a greater detecti&#xA;  on and recognition distance when compared with reflectorised accessories&#xA;  (420m versus 207m and 96m versus 92m respectively).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Watts 1984b: A rear bicycle lamp yielded a greater detection distance when compared with reflectors (306m versus 184m).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Watts 1984c: A flashing beacon on a bicycle yielded a greater detection but not&#xA;  recognition distance when compared with reflectors (588m versus&#xA;  444m and 59m versus 71m respectively)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also has a lot of comparisons of reflectors on moving parts vs. &quot;static&quot; parts: &quot;biomotion&quot; configurations are better detected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I have steady lights both in front and rear (Germany), but I have an &lt;em&gt;additional&lt;/em&gt; rear light that I switch to blinking when I judge the conditions particularly dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard that rather than the absolute brightness of the light, the lighting area is important for visibility. Thus, lights with larger reflectors (the inner mirror) are probably better for visibility. Which is contrary to the current trend to smaller reflectors and LEDs which are brilliant, but basically point sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I could not find the study.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7450" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T21:51:23.227" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-09T22:05:14.760" Score="2" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano RD-M510 rear derailleur that needs both jockey wheels replaced.  Were can I find them for this older unit?&#xA;Jerry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T09:47:19.883" Title="Where can I find Shimano jockey wheels?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-10-27T05:41:17.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18005" CreationDate="2013-10-09T22:19:35.660" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Car headlights are more complex than bike lights. The beam is 'shaped' to throw light away from oncoming drivers and has a sharp cutoff on dipped beam. therefore bike lights will always cause a greater degree of glare (for relative brightness) than car lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point the beam so its shining at the ground about 10-20meters in front, and slightly towards the curb. The faster you go, the higher it needs to be. Curb side is where you need most light, as that is where the glass and rubbish is, and it avoids blinding oncoming motorists. As far as being seen, add a non-directional flashing light and hi-vis gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T22:19:35.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17995" CreationDate="2013-10-10T00:23:15.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you'll have more luck with answers on specialised trials forums, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;. However, I'll try to address your questions briefly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Risk to damage the fork/frame? Yes, absolutely. But all depend on what you are doing and what bike it is. I've snapped a few frames doing trials and stunts. But chances of damaging are less if you are using trials frame.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheel size is a great debate in a trials world. There are 26&quot;, 24&quot; and 20&quot; (19&quot;) wheels. All down to the preference and rider level. I'd start with 26&quot; and then once you know what you want/need, decide on the sizes. If you are very keen on trials and have finance, definitely get a trials bike. Many times while learning I found my bike stopping my progress. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Good quality parts... get a good chain and good freewheel. Because if freewheel slips while doing gaps - you are going down. And that can lead to an injury. Also get a great rear tyre with good brake. A lot depends on that. Other parts are essential, but these are high priority.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Breaks are another point of debate in trials world. Magura HS33 - hydraulic rim brakes used to be very popular 10 years ago. Now I'm not quite sure about the trends. Certainly I'd put some cash in for a good rear break - that is a vital part of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of your questions are down to experience. You'll know when you need a better rear break and what other parts to change. And you'll slowly assemble a great bike, going along with your skill level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T00:23:15.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18012" CreationDate="2013-10-10T01:50:02.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most on line retailers Chainreaction cycles, BlueSky cycles, Excel Sports carry them. Your LBS should also be able to get them if they don't stock them. They may be called derailleur pulleys or jockey wheels. You want to measure the wheel width and tooth count if you are using something other than an exact replacement from Shimano. The top and bottom wheels are generally not interchangeable so make sure you order the correct ones if they are available as separate pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T01:50:02.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18012" CreationDate="2013-10-10T01:50:51.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The compatible part is SHIMANO RD 5700 and the part number is 5XH9812. The set come as a pair and is available at a number of places such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/shimano-jockey-wheels-mtb/rp-prod885&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chain Reaction Cycles&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-rd-5700-tension-guide-pulley-set/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wiggle&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing to ensure if using generics is that they are the right chain size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T01:50:51.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-10T03:35:36.130" Score="5" ViewCount="977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to mount the following &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0025UJXLK&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SunRace clamp-on shifter set&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;horizontally&lt;/em&gt; as a &quot;thumb&quot; shifter on a straight MTB handlebar (22.2mm).  I will remove the left lever and only use the right with the clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the lever is not easy to reach because it swings from parallel with the handlebar to straight forward.  I would like to have the angle of the full swing of the lever go from a little towards me to a little forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to change the angle of these stem-mount shift levers (which are almost the same as downtube shift levers) by about 45 deg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note (in second pic) that these are meant for stem mount, so there is a cable housing stop for the part of the shift cable housing that goes from the handlebar to a downtube stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eWoPZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RDgGV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2020-11-09T21:04:45.447" Title="Change the angle of the arc of downtube / stem shifter lever to make it an alternative thumb shifter?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-10T04:26:15.470" Score="4" ViewCount="9848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've scoured the internet for this answer, as I recently just tried to repair a tube on my Purefix fixed-gear bike which I assume uses tires and tubes similar to road bikes, as the tire size is 700cx28. Anywho, the patch pinched the tube and was no longer usable. I used the pre-glued ones, but the problem seemed to be that the patch pinched the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the type of patch (pre-glued, non-pre-glued) matter a ton?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I apply patch to a partially inflated tube or deflated tube?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the tire-liner stuff really work in preventing flats?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are my tires to blame for all my flats?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first time on a bike that isn't a mountain bike, and I've had 3 flats now in 2 months and I haven't been able to patch them. Thanks for all the info guys and gals!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8358" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T08:30:59.223" Title="Best way to patch road bike tubes" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18018" CreationDate="2013-10-10T04:49:55.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typically the old style patch kits work better than the pre glued ones, but properly applied ones should hold up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Follow the directions in the patch kit to apply it properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need rim tape, but not a tire liner (check to see its in good condition). Sheldon Brown says tire liners can cause more flats: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for things on the inside of the tire (or outside) or canvas showing. &#xA;Those can cause flats, but what is the shape of the damage to the tube? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T04:49:55.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18012" CreationDate="2013-10-10T04:56:34.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano provides the following parts list for the RD-M510 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/RD/EV-RD-M510-1896_v1_m56577569830609142.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/RD/EV-RD-M510-1896_v1_m56577569830609142.pdf&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Y-5UN 98060 Guide Pulley&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Y-5UN 98070 Tension Pulley&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take this sheet to your LBS and get them to order it for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T04:56:34.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-10T06:27:59.663" Score="2" ViewCount="1856" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone got tips on spreading an old steel front fork to fit a more modern hub? I've got minimal tools. I thought a car jack might be a good way to go..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8360" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T11:40:08.070" Title="Spreading a steel front fork" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18004" CreationDate="2013-10-10T08:12:34.317" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched bikes a year ago, and I noticed on my rides (50km - 70km) at the time that I had some numbness / cramp / pain in my hands and wrists, it was so bad on some rides that I need two hands to change gear.  The bike had slightly different geometry than my previous road bike.  I now ride frequently 100km and even up to 180km with little or no pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I did and what changed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I took the bike to my LBS and asked them if there was something they could do.  The adjusted the shifters outwards so that I wasn't stretching so far to change gear. A good bike fit may be the only solution you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Good gloves with good padding in the right place, to prevent putting too much pressure on the nerves that run through your palm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) rotating hand position, on a road bike you have 3 (or possibly more ) hand positions.  Use them.  They are not always practical in every situation but you can often switch from the drops to the hoods or vice versa on the flat, and the hood to the tops or vice versa on climbs.  This change in position will help with cramping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) finger clenches and stretches.  As soon as I start to feel my wrists or fingers getting tired I take one hand at a time off the handlebars (where it is safe to do so) and clench and stretch my fingers 5-10 times.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Hold the handle bars loosely.  My main problem was that I was gripping the handlebars way too tightly.  If you relax your grip to the loosest possible you will reduce cramp and reduce the effect of vibrations from small bumps and rough road surfaces.  This is especially important for long fast downhills.  I would grip on for dear life (doing about 60kmph - 75kmph) clearly you want a harder grip as even small bumps can be dangerous, but squeezing very hard on the handlebars will give you cramp in no time at all.  Also when braking on the down hills its better to pump the brakes rather that keep them on the whole time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this takes practice and I am sure that the muscles in my wrists got used to the abuse they were getting too.  In the end I am fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5247" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2018-02-20T13:58:56.280" LastActivityDate="2018-02-20T13:58:56.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18018" CreationDate="2013-10-10T08:19:33.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I make a repair, I also do the following extra steps, to make sure that the patch holds. I have never had a patch come off/leak when using this technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a little bit of sandpaper to remove any ridges on the area to be patched, such as a manufacturing join.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the area to be patched, this makes the glue/solution adhere better to the tube. Especially so if you have sanded the area. I would usually use methalyated spirits and a lint free cloth of some sort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the patch is applied, apply some chalk dust to the area, this makes sure that the solution/glue does not bond to anything else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8361" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T08:19:33.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4390" CreationDate="2013-10-10T10:27:05.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bandana to keep sweat out of your eyes in summer and keep head warm in winter (plus a scarf for your neck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T10:27:05.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-10T11:18:43.187" Score="1" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to fit a SPD pedal and cleat setup on my SPD SL shoe (SH-R131-S)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to why, is to save the expenses for a new shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if it's possible. Is it a good idea to mix them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5450" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T11:54:20.143" Title="spd pedal on spd sl shoe" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-10T11:22:04.333" Score="4" ViewCount="5661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to take part in three local cyclocross races in the coming weeks but have a bike dilemma: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I convert my track frame to a new fork and put one cantilever brake on it and change the tyres, or change the tyres on my Kona road bike (I checked to be sure that there is enough clearance for cross tyres) and race with road bike style calipers but increase the calipers clearance to the rims? At the moment putting cross tyres on my road bike is the cheapest but no one uses calipers so I assume it's a stupid idea. But is converting the track bike silly too? All races are flat, btw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-10T13:08:06.367" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T19:01:09.013" Title="Cyclocross racing with fixed gear road bike with cross tires" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-10T11:23:10.777" Score="2" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't decide between these two models. I need them mostly for technical trail riding, like getting on boulders on the way up (I'm fine with cleats going down, but on the way up on each mistake I have to find my way to unclip to put a feet, and 50% of the time I don't quite succeed in that and lay sideways). Does the new VXi bald sole design sacrifices some of the grip in exchange for the ability to reposition the foot? What would be your choice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T13:36:07.477" Title="FiveTen Freeriders vs Freeriders VXi" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-10-27T05:40:51.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-10T11:26:47.810" Score="1" ViewCount="26001" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I attempted using a couple of shitty plastic screws to attach an air pump to the water bottle mounting holes in the frame. I was using a long-arm torque wrench and the head of one of the screws just came off, leaving the body inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need those threaded holes in order to install the pump!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking of burning the screw body with a soldering iron and then forcing a steel screw in, to clean the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this be a good idea? Maybe drilling would do better? Anything to be careful about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T23:33:56.567" Title="Plastic screw with ripped-off head stuck in the frame" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16401" CreationDate="2013-10-10T11:28:57.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common deburring machine used for mass finishing parts is a vibratory deburring machine, or vibratory tumbler, which utilizes abrasive media to deburr, clean or polish unfinished or dirty parts or objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8364" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2013-10-10T12:32:48.610" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T12:32:48.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18021" CreationDate="2013-10-10T11:40:08.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This to be done with caution and patience. I recently did it using a long 3/8&quot; carriage bolt that I purchased from the hardware store. I placed a washer on the bolt screwed on two nuts then another washer. Install the bolt in the axle notch of the forks. slowly move the nuts outward gradually spreading the fork. I did it slowly over several hours although I don't know if it is really necessary. You will want to go 3mm-4mm wider than needed as the fork will spring back a little when the bolt is removed. You must also be aware that the old style forks do not have the recessed seat ( known by some as lawyer lips) to retain the skewer if it comes loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T11:40:08.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18026" CreationDate="2013-10-10T11:54:20.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible with a suitable adapter. eg the Shimano SM-SH85, or the Crank Brothers 3-hole cleat adapter. These bolt onto 3 hole (road) shoes, and provide 2 holes to bolt on SPD cleats or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage is the thickness of the adapter. This will make the cleat stick out further from the shoe, so it will be closer to the ground. If your shoes don't have much tread, the cleat may be touching the ground. So it may be very slippy if walking on a smooth floor. And the cleats will wear out faster, especially if walking across stones or rocks. Also, road shoes can be very stiff, so they may be uncomfortable for walking in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proper SPD shoes (designed for mountain biking or touring etc), have the cleats more recessed, so they don't touch the ground. And they are usually less stiff and have more grip, so better for walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T11:54:20.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18028" CreationDate="2013-10-10T13:36:07.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got the regular Freeride shoes and love how sticky they are. Haven't tried the new VXi ones, but I think the spot with no tread pattern would be a little nicer since you don't have to lift your foot to reposition. I'd recommend reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Five-Ten-Freerider-VXi-Shoes-review-2013.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pinkbike's&lt;/a&gt; review as they cover most of the relevant points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T13:36:07.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15142" CreationDate="2013-10-10T13:57:17.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's been some very helpful research done for the Dutch cyclist union in 2012. The way it was measured was quite scientific, with G-meters to measure comfort, rolling resistance was measured in Watts and anti-puncture strength in both N and Nm, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the cons of the test is that all measurement are done at 4.0 bar, where balloon tires are more likely to be used at +/- 3.0 bar and narrower tires at 5.0+ bar.&#xA;With pressures around 2.5 bar, all tested tires scored approx. 25%-30% worse on rolling resistance, however that would result in only 1 km/h difference at 20 km/h.!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M7A2p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Test results 28&amp;quot; tires&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The newer test from 2013 declared the same winner, the Vittoria Voyager Hyper Folding 37-622 B/B-SK+RT Triple Shielding, but a new runner up, the Schwalbe Big Apple 55-622 B/B-SK+RT HS430 Performance Line, Race Guard, Lite Skin, as seen here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietsersbond.nl/node/5907&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fietsersbond.nl/node/5907&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some online shopping, these tyres can be bought for less than $ 20 each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8365" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T13:57:17.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13813" CreationDate="2013-10-10T14:48:38.933" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of downsides of both types, that I have witnessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic. Leaking oil tends to get into the pads and rotor, rendering the first useless and the second in need of professional cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical. Cable failure is very perilous. Essentially one moment you have full stopping power, the next moment the brake is disengaged fully. Additionally, this tends to happen when you squeeze the brake lever hard. When does one squeeze the brake lever hard? Correct - when you need to stop NOW and HARD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maintenance. Mechanical require the annoying static pad adjustment every month or two. Hydraulic require the somewhat difficult bleeding every year or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;The first incident I only observed. The second has happened to me multiple times with possibly misconfigured Shimano BR-M416&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit from the perspective of the years:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, the failing mechanicals were due to misconfiguration. Nowadays &lt;code&gt;mechanical disk breaks&lt;/code&gt; == &lt;code&gt;like hydraulic disk brakes, but cheaper and worse&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-07-10T06:40:57.917" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T06:40:57.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18029" CreationDate="2013-10-10T16:08:06.807" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the comments have stated, here's your options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Screw extractor&lt;/strong&gt;: Inexpensive and easy to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drill&lt;/strong&gt;: Use successively larger drill bits until most of the screw is gone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drill and extract&lt;/strong&gt;: Drill a spot large enough to put something in the middle and pull it out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Screw/Nail Extract&lt;/strong&gt;: Lightly tap a nail or smaller screw into it and then try to unscrew the stuck body. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Melt it&lt;/strong&gt;: Not really recommended but you could do it. Be prepared to retap the threads if things go awry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, these are not in any order and some can be tried before others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T16:08:06.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18040" CreationDate="2013-10-10T20:05:49.110" Score="7" ViewCount="70756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Schwinn Sporterra 2011. It has a 622x20 rim and the default tires are 700x38C. I'm thinking of &quot;upgrading&quot; to thinner tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my local cycle shop has Specialized tires that are 32C. They can also get me Schwalbe 28C tires, but in 2-3 weeks time. What I'm trying to understand is, coming from 38C tires, how much of a difference will 28C or 32C make -- Difference to things like speed and handling? Will 28C be much &quot;faster&quot; and worth the long wait time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm actually thinking of switching to a road bike in 6 months but till the time I save up for that, I want to get thinner tires on the current bike. I was told they'll make quite a difference. Thoughts?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8367" LastEditorUserId="8367" LastEditDate="2013-10-11T04:40:49.893" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T19:54:19.087" Title="Significant difference between 28C and 32C tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17969" CreationDate="2013-10-10T20:50:30.850" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;How To Reach Out&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an individual, you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; reach out in person.  I would show up at their place of business, or at the very least call them.  I wouldn't expect anything from a letter - personalized or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What You Offer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you're actually talking to someone... what comes next?  What are &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; going to provide them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're active in the racing community, by promoting races, doing trail work, teaching skills clinics, etc. - then &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; is what you sell to the companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you blog/write/podcast/tweet and have an active following, then &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; is what you sell them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;You're Just a Racer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you are doing is racing, then you'd better expect to put the time in and get good enough to regularly place on the podium in Cat 1 (not Cat 2).  While racing Cat 2 would be a good start, there are literally &lt;strong&gt;hundreds&lt;/strong&gt; of people &lt;strong&gt;just like you&lt;/strong&gt; also racing Cat 2.  (&lt;em&gt;side note:&lt;/em&gt; as soon as you start placing on the podium in Cat 2, you'll likely be bumped up to Cat 1 the following year (or even mid-year, depending on the rules)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to figure out what makes you different than the other 100 guys racing Cat 2, what makes you stand out, what &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; story is.  If it is compelling, then &lt;strong&gt;that&lt;/strong&gt; is what you sell them.  If you don't have a compelling story, you'd better be winning &lt;strong&gt;all the time&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Who Will Sponsor You&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start local - ask businesses in your community for sponsorship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are, if they're willing to provide sponsorship, they'll want to sponsor with what they deal in.  A brewpub might offer you discounted pints, a salon might give you free haircuts, a bike shop might give you discounted prices on parts and labor.  Our team was sponsored by a sign making shop - they give us any sign/banner we want for free - that's an amazing deal (literally 100's of dollars of value if we make use of it) - but probably not that useful for an individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want sponsorship of a company that isn't small or local... you've got to win.  For example, Kona sponsors up-and-coming racers.  Their 2013 team could be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://2013.konaworld.com/grassroots.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://2013.konaworld.com/grassroots.cfm&lt;/a&gt;  The gal I know on that team won every local (state-wide) XC race she entered, and placed top 5 in the XTerra world championships.  That's the level at which you need to be racing to get that level of sponsorship.  So start local.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Levels Of Sponsorship&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're a racer, about all you have to offer (in terms of marketing space) is a spot on the jersey.  The bike is just too small a platform to be of any use.  If a part of your agreement is to wear your jersey at bike parks, then get a free-ride jersey dolled up the same way as your XC jersey and wear it at the bike park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as deciding the different tiers of sponsors... when starting out, I'd treat every sponsor as a major sponsor.  If you get two sponsors your first year (Kate's Knitting and Joe's Tire Shop) - give them both big spots on your jersey.  Once you have enough sponsors to need to prioritize, then you'll have an idea of where to draw the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edited to add:&lt;/em&gt; Looks like Pinkbike agrees, check out their article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/So-You-Wanna-Be-Sponsored-2013.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;So You Wanna Be Sponsored?&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; I'm just a dude who started racing a few years back with a local club team.  I have no experience getting sponsors, but I do know what our team gets in exchange for sponsorship.  Your best bet at getting sponsored is to join a local club team and get the benefits from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T16:12:18.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18038" CreationDate="2013-10-10T20:51:38.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will make a significant difference, but the size of the tire alone won't make much of a difference to your speed. If your current tires have a substantial amount of tread on them, you may notice a speed difference since smaller tires tend to have less tread on average.  It's probably not going to be a substantial difference though, even if you have the knobbiest 38's on the market. Your biggest speed limitation is wind resistance, and while the narrower profile of the tires will knock that down a little, it's a small portion of the overall wind resistance that you experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you'll notice the biggest difference will be in how much harsher the ride will feel with skinnier tires. They run at higher pressures so you end up feeling every bump in the road more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also notice that the steering feels more nimble due to the lighter weight of the skinnier tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also be more prone to pinch flats with skinnier tires. To what extent will depend on the tire pressure that you've been running and the tire pressure you're going to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T20:51:38.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2013-10-10T21:38:47.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a triple that gives me a low gear of about 22 gear inches, I don't use it often but when I need it, I can spin past others on a compact.  We are a senior cycling group and the triple becomes more important with ages above 70 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8370" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T21:38:47.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-10T21:44:35.750" Score="3" ViewCount="796" Body="&lt;p&gt;So Im aware that you can buy (3 hole) spd pedal to (2 hole) mtb pedals so you can own one pair of shoes like this one offered by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankbrothers.com/accessories_3hole_cleat.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crank brothers&lt;/a&gt;. Has anyone ever seen a cleat adapter that could aid traction when running in a cyclo cross race (i.e. a pair of studs right at the front of the pedal)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T06:03:55.797" Title="Is there a road shoe cleat adapter (from road to mountain) that could be used in a cyclo cross race?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18038" CreationDate="2013-10-10T22:40:14.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another answer noted that tread pattern and tire pressure make a larger difference than the width.  If you have a smooth tread pattern at high pressure, you will roll more easily and the tire won't &quot;squirm&quot; going around corners.  Tire compound can also affect handling.  The worst tires I ever rode on were a cheap narrow-ish (maybe 28c) set with raised tread made of a harder rubber compound.  The traction was terrible: I could lock the rear tire even under fairly light breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a connection between width and tire pressure.  Generally narrower tires support higher pressures, and also require higher pressures to support the same weight on a smaller volume of air.  Up to a point, running higher pressure will reduce rolling resistance.  If you run the pressure too high it may actually slow you down as small bumps will jostle you more.  You can try running wider tires at their max pressure to reduce rolling resistance and see how they feel, but it will likely give you a rough ride and have fairly poor contact with the road surface, compared with a narrower tire at the same pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 32C tires will likely give a noticeable difference: the ride may be a little rougher but rolling resistance should be reduced, and you'll probably feel a little more certain on corners.  Contrary to the other poster, rolling resistance is less than air resistance, but is a significant factor at moderate speed: if you're riding at 25MPH, air resistance totally dominates, but at 15MPH, rolling resistance is non-negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say just get the 32C tires and start riding on them: it's probably not worth the wait.  There's also a good chance that 28C might be too much of a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T22:40:14.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-11T08:14:28.493" Score="2" ViewCount="762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish to take part in my first cyclo cross race but would like to avoid buying anything (other than tyres) until I have tried it. I currently ride a Kona Honky Tonk which I believe has enough clearance to have 32c tyres without fenders. Will this be enough clearance for all the mud or will it gum up the entire area and create friction and stop me mid race? Also It has dual pivot calliper brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T14:51:49.647" Title="How much fork to tyre clearance do dedicated cyclo cross bikes need?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18029" CreationDate="2013-10-11T08:28:08.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try heating up a screwdriver and pushing that into the screw, then (after everything has had a chance to cool down) using it to turn the screw out.  Start gently and increase the heat until it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2013-10-11T09:42:21.470" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T09:42:21.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18079" CreationDate="2013-10-11T08:35:24.827" Score="6" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;Threaded bottom brackets &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are much simpler to install&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;require minimal tools (press-in requires a $300 press)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are automatically aligned, as the thread was cut in the factory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;So what is the reason not to exist headsets, the cups of which thread into the headtube? And be the most often used ones?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="4307" LastEditDate="2013-10-11T11:19:31.477" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T21:31:40.973" Title="Why no threaded headset cups?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-11T09:12:37.810" Score="5" ViewCount="2405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two bikes, a hybrid commuter with skinny tyres, full mud guards &amp;amp; rim brakes, then I have a 29er hardtail MTB with hydraulic disc brakes and off road tyres. Which would be best, for commuting (with a minimum modification cost) in the snow? (this is likeley to be a small-medium amount of snow, perhaps having been compressed by other vehicles/walkers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T06:47:27.510" Title="Modifying a bike for winter (on a budget)" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-11T13:58:46.283" Score="3" ViewCount="1119" Body="&lt;p&gt;My kid trailer I have had for a few years has, in the past few weeks, been noticeably harder to pull.  I checked it over and I found that not only are my wheel cones are a little loose, that I can spin the axle with very little resistance.  When I say little meaning I can give the quick release lever a light flick and it will spin 4 or 5 times easily with the wheel in the vertical orientation (off the trailer).  I'm assuming that this is because the bearings are dry, and since anything I have rebuilt myself, the grease (park tools polylub 1000) will give some drag to keep it from free spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have pulled it for hundreds (if not thousands) of miles to this point without really any problem.  This summer it has been in the rain twice (~4 miles), but I noticed this new drag before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trailer (shaped object) is a Pacific Voyager II sold through Toys-r-us (best that I can tell).  I don't know the service history (assuming none) and I'm the 3rd owner.  When I got it I replaced the tires on it (20&quot; Kenda road tires) and keep the pressure high (50lbs of 55lbs max).  At around the same time I also upgraded the hitch system to a standard Burley one so I no longer have the spring in the system causing tugging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2013-10-11T14:10:25.660" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T19:31:03.037" Title="Do dry wheel bearings increase drag?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2013-10-11T14:13:03.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, my MTB did have a triple, and I rarely felt&#xA;  the need to use the smaller gear, even on very steep inclines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either you are very fit, or your MTB rides aren't that steep...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, let's consider a typical weight weenie race bike :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;chainring 34T / cassette 24T * wheel circumference 2.1m = about 3m per crank revolution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a MTB you'd get a 32-34T middle chainring and, so the same gearing corresponds roughly to :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;chainring 34T / cassette 23T * wheel circumference 2.0m&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, check which number corresponds to the 22-23 teeth cog on your MTB, this should be number 4-5, and go climb the steepest hill you'd ride with your race bike, not using any easier gears than this one. That will give you a good preview on how easy/hard you can expect it to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T14:13:03.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18044" CreationDate="2013-10-11T14:51:49.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be very tight, looking at the bike I think 32c with knobbies might not even fit. It also has to do with the height of the tire. By adding the knobbies I doubt you will find a CX tire that will fit under the brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are not many options for 30c or smaller CX tires. If you can find some tires that fit (will be tight) it will clump mud, but might not lock your wheels up. It depends on the mud, not all mud is the same, some sloppy/wet mud will not clump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But extra clearance doesn't mean everything rolls smooth. The mud in a race two weeks ago on my 29er was so thick that both front a rear wheels locked up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, you can find a CX race that has less mud. Great fun and highly recommended. Another option is to race on a mountain bike to see how you like CX racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T14:51:49.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18047" CreationDate="2013-10-11T16:05:44.723" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many factors to consider, try riding both around the block to see which one you feel more comfortable on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8375" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-10-11T17:05:35.477" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T17:05:35.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18048" CreationDate="2013-10-11T16:07:44.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your wheel can spin freely around the axle, there's two scenarios here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You've got super awesome bearings that have held up really well and still rotate freely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bearings are actually really tight and not moving at all and the wheel rotates on the axle itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, since you mention the cones are loose, you should pull apart the hub and check the bearings. Look for dirty grease and see how the bearings/races look. Clean and repack if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New grease will always add a bit of friction, but as it breaks down and heats up (during use) it usually becomes more viscous, therefore reducing friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T16:07:44.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17848" CreationDate="2013-10-11T16:39:22.293" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how does a higher fork contribute to higher stress in the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By creating a longer lever, and stretching the end of that lever to a greater angle, it transmits more force to the bottom of the head tube (the part of the frame where the steer tube passes through). This can cause damage to the head tube itself or where it joins both the down tube and top tube. How does this happen? That longer lever is essentially trying to pry the head tube off of that joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the effect of lower fork than the original?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fork with less travel (or similar travel but a shorter overall length) will steepen the head angle which will make your steering a bit quicker and more responsive. Now, this does reduce the force applied to the lower part of the head tube, but due to the change in angle, increases the force applied to the upper part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does bike A, being sold with higher fork than bike B, mean that A's frame is stronger? Or is it just different geometry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply: no. Frames are like any other product where the visual inspection does not guarantee that the assumption is true. For instance, most tapered head tubes with fork travel X are probably stronger than a straight head tube with the same fork travel. The purpose of the bike will also determine a relative frame strength. A dirt jump bike with a 100mm fork will handle way more stress than a XC frame with 100mm fork. The trade off is usually flex, weight, or another metric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T16:39:22.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5611" CreationDate="2013-10-11T19:05:17.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a utility worker in the US. I finally used my last orange vest, and I was presented with a lime green one by my manager. We were outside when he handed it to me. I looked at the vest, then at him, and then I threw it in the thin patch of growth near by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a choice word or two, he asked me what I did that for.  I responded with, &amp;quot;Where is it, John?&amp;quot;  At only 12 to 15 ft, he was unable to see it against the trees and brush.  I threw my current orange vest (neither new nor clean) into the woods right near it. It was much more visible to say the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yellow green is silly on many levels. First, I think it more closely matches the colors of autumn and of course of grass throughout the year. I also think fire=red blue=police and orange means construction. I avoid things colored orange in a safety zone. I will also avoid things colored yellow or green in a safety zone, but I am looking for orange. After many photos in different lights and at different distances, I conclude that the orange is superior in daytime working environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have come on flaggers in yellow and green recently that are dancing with their stop signs to get drivers attention.  I don't have a stop sign and would really like to go home to my family at the end of the day.  Just my 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8377" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2021-03-30T15:38:04.027" LastActivityDate="2021-03-30T15:38:04.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18048" CreationDate="2013-10-11T19:31:03.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I think you are seeing is the difference between the bearing spinning loaded and spinning unloaded. A dry bearing will usually spin quite freely with no lubricant as long as there is no load. Unloaded the balls move to the point of least resistance. Once a load is applied the dry balls will bind as they rub against each other and the races. The need for lubricant will be most evident under load and a greased bearing will have more unloaded resistance than a dry bearing. The resistance should be smooth and consistant  during rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T19:31:03.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18047" CreationDate="2013-10-11T23:18:43.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having ridden in snow many times before I'd recommend the knobby tires with some air let out of it so you can have more surface on the snow/ground. Just a bit. Not a lot. Also, use the mud guards as well as you'll never know when/if the snow will melt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8380" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T23:18:43.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17956" CreationDate="2013-10-12T01:29:37.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is squealing can also be caused by micro vibrations, and not necessarily in the brake system itself, for example, due to slightly loose forks. So you might want to check everything is nice and tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a squeal for a few months out of the blue, then happened to be caught in an enormous downpour, riding through deep and dirty water puddles. The next day (and since) no squeal :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8381" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T01:29:37.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18047" CreationDate="2013-10-12T15:31:48.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having lived in a few parts of the US, I've found what people call small to medium to be drastically different based on the region (&quot;oh yeah, we just had a light snow last night&quot;, and i look outside to see 4+ inches versus &quot;it snowed like crazy last night&quot; and i look outside to see a half inch and the whole city has come to a grinding halt), so its a bit hard to judge how much snow you're going to encounter, so I'm going to assume 2-3 inches fairly regularly (if it snows once or twice in the winter where you live, who cares?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal winter bike should be cheap and preferably somewhat disposable. Full fenders are good since they'll protect you from slush and what not and your drivetrain. The slush and snow and grit will still get into your drivetrain and what not even with full fenders, so you do have to make a habit of cleaning the bike off regularly in the winter (which can be tricky depending on where you live), or component life can be drastically shortened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you expect to encounter ice, studded tires are advisable (Peter White's page is an OK overview for this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp&lt;/a&gt; , though Nashbar does (used to?) sell very cheap studded tires made by Kenda - not good for off road, but perfect for commuting). I'd say have these on hand if you can - in my experience, snow often leads to ice. Just don't try riding like a maniac or you're wear out the studs. If you can't afford them, get a cheap set of knobbies and run them at low pressure and be careful (always be careful when theres snow+ice around). Be careful with sizing since studded tires of the same &quot;size&quot; may need slightly different clearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the hybrid, it depends on what kind of hybrid it is - if it isn't twitchy and can use &quot;large&quot; tires (say, like a Trek 7.2 fx or a modern Specialized Sirrus), it should be OK. If not, I'd use the mountain bike and try to fit some fenders on it (probably you'll be only to fit things like the SKS X-tra dry, X-board or something similar, but its better than nothing) and take extra care to clean it up regularly. Discs would be nice for winter commuting at times if your rims are covered in slush, but a good V or canti setup is fine as well. Overall, if you have to use one of your two current bikes and both fit the conditions above, use the cheaper one or the one you're more comfortable riding in messy situations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best option IMO is to find a cheap old rigid (one less thing to go wrong - some of the cheaper suspension bikes make horrible noises in the winter and its just not necessary) mountain bike (think 90s specialized hardrock, giant boulder (I've use a 2003-ish one of these as my commuter for the past few years, since its fairly comfortable, pretty cheap to maintain (though things rarely fail, even with cheap (acera-x level) components), fits full fenders and a rack, fits reasonable sized tires and nobody wants to steal it!) or whatever - the spec, weight is far less important for a beater than for your primary bike, just a decent fit) probably at Goodwill or something (these are quite cheap to find about now - if you live near a college campus and go to a bike shop which sells more cheaper / used bikes, you'll be able to select some from there at a bit of a higher but reasonable price), give it some elbow grease (probably a new chain and lube and new brake pads, some various adjustments), fit it with full fenders, some lights (extremely important in winter) and some knobby/studded tires. Replace components as they start being not good. The total cost for this could be less than 100 dollars and two - three hours of work if you're smart about it and prone to getting distracted (so you can then invest in some winter clothing!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T15:31:48.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17816" CreationDate="2013-10-12T15:38:18.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would follow SRAMs guidance on this one. Note that there are other quick links available that work with all chains (and can be reused). KMC's missing links (depending on the model) are reusable: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kmcchain.eu/?en/products/connectors/missing_links/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kmcchain.eu/?en/products/connectors/missing_links/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2013-10-12T15:38:18.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9529" CreationDate="2013-10-13T04:07:55.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a bike fit is in order at your LBS. You may need to adjust the saddle height, saddle of appropriate width, saddle angle, stem height, stem length, handlebar angle, figure out if the top tube length is appropriate, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saddle discomfort is not isolated to just the saddle, but also geometry of riding. Most road bikes force you to sit on your &quot;sit bones&quot; rather than a plush cruiser seat where the weight is suspended by your sit bones and whole rear end (which is fine for short rides) which can be somewhat disconcerting at first (you shouldn't be bolt upright for example). But some women's specific saddles may be helpful. The issue of tissue compression does affect women as well to some extent but shouldn't be an issue with appropriate saddle and handlebar adjustment provided the frame is an appropriate size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T04:07:55.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9529" CreationDate="2013-10-13T04:20:56.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saddle comfort has many variables, addressing all of them can be scary or &quot;drowning&quot; for the new rider. One variable is obviously &lt;strong&gt;particular anatomy&lt;/strong&gt;. As it is true that women differ from men, there can be huge differences among riders of the same gender. Also, even though there are women specific designs, a women's saddle is not radically different from a man's one, in fact, the untrained eye may not tell one from another even with close inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fit&lt;/strong&gt; is the key word here. As other answers here point out, you should try several saddles before you find the perfect one. But not only the shape and type of saddle affect fit. The bike should fit you. Saddle height, up/down angle, fore/aft position and distance to the handlebar can play a significant role in saddle comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another variable is the rider's level of &lt;strong&gt;expertise&lt;/strong&gt;. The novice rider does not have their muscles and bones accustomed to the position on the saddle. The O.P. states that her problem is not with the bones but with &quot;lady bits&quot;, but when a rider can not hold the proper position long enough, tends to move in the saddle to alleviate pain in certain area causing pain in another. Also, a novice rider may want a more padded saddle whereas a seasoned cyclist usually wants a lighter saddle with less padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether the saddle is &lt;strong&gt;broken in&lt;/strong&gt;. An excellent saddle may be uncomfortable for several miles when new, but once it is broken in, it gets way better. (In my case I need at least two rides of 15 miles on my mountain bike to feel that a new saddle is ready for longer rides).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;strong&gt;riding style&lt;/strong&gt;: Cruising/leisure riders, &quot;relaxed&quot; commuters and purely recreational cyclists tend to prefer wide, heavily padded saddles, but sporty and competitive ones, use narrower, stiffer and lighter saddles for a more efficient power transfer to the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having that said, I suggest the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A new rider may find more comfortable a saddle with more padding, or even a gel cover. As the rider evolves, the extra padding or gel may start to feel too bulky. It will be then time to move to a more racing-oriented saddle or remove the gel cover.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a saddle designed for women. Consider the previous point regarding how much padding. Also, verify that the saddle is really different from the same make/model for men. (I've seen many scams where the product is only painted or decorated differently, but is actually no different than the man's version, and the worst is, they charge a higher price for the supposed woman's special item). As far as I have noticed, true woman's saddles are a little bit wider and shorter tan man's. Also, Man's saddles tend to have a longitudinal cutout that starts where the saddle gets wider and continues towards the back, whereas ladies' saddles have a &quot;depression&quot; that starts closer to the nose and ends near the widening point of the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use cyclist shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The usage of lady's daily protectors can also help. (Like the pantyliners or pads, but these are lighter, smaller and for &quot;the rest of the month&quot;) You may need to try different sizes before you find the ones that work best for this purpose, if they help in &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; case.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Regarding fit: If possible, (and/or no already done) go to a shop that can offer fitting service. You can also learn many basic fitting steps from the internet. Either case, fit is by no means an unbreakable law. Sometimes bike fit involves formulas precise to 3 decimal figures, but let's be honest: no body can place their but with precision of tenths of an inch, so these formulas are actually starting points, or general guidelines. After a fit session, ride for at least 30 minutes, and if you feel like you need a change, make it. Make only one change at a time, and stay within half an inch or a centimeter every time. Repeat as necessary. (I have assembled bikes several times, and when the bike is for me, I may need up to 3 or 4 changes after the initial set up to find my sweet spot).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Particularly, I have seen ladies who are fine with a standard or &quot;unisex&quot; saddle, slightly angled down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Partial credits to my wife who is also a competitive cross country rider. Notes also taken from my sister, a more recreational cross country rider who custom-fits her saddles with partially modified gel covers. Notes also taken from female rider acquaintances.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:47:55.833" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:47:55.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9529" CreationDate="2013-10-13T11:02:50.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everybody buying a saddle for extensive riding would do well to get a personal saddle measurement done, or to do it themselves. This is a pretty common option in the more fancy bicycle shops (where I live anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point 8 on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclinglife.com/PracticalCycling/Sore.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; about saddle soreness gives a pretty good explanation of what you have to measure if you want to do it yourself. It is actually not that difficult.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/health-are-you-sitting-comfortably-30179&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; also has a good explanation at the end.&#xA;And finally, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9815/is-it-possible-to-measure-your-sit-bones-at-home&quot;&gt;this local question&lt;/a&gt; and the accompanying answers should also help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T11:02:50.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18067" CreationDate="2013-10-13T18:11:18.903" Score="2" ViewCount="13144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to transport an &quot;open frame&quot; bike on a Saris Bones 3 car rack. This is the bike - &lt;a href=&quot;http://arragons.com/online-store/bikes/hybrid-bikes/ridgeback-element-open-frame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://arragons.com/online-store/bikes/hybrid-bikes/ridgeback-element-open-frame&lt;/a&gt; - and this is the rack - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/saris-bones-3-bike-rack/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/saris-bones-3-bike-rack/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to like to know whether I need to shell out for one of these bars - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/saris-bike-beam-bar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/saris-bike-beam-bar/&lt;/a&gt; - which create a temporary top tube for ladies bike. The top tube on the bike in question doesn't seem that low so I might get away without the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would the effects of not using a bar? I've read that these bars are necessary for ladies bikes, but why if all it means is the bike sits more level? Will the rack be unstable? Will it mean other bikes won't fit on the rack? etc etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8392" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T21:28:28.293" Title="Ladies bike on a car rack" Tags="&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-13T18:31:36.210" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;how much time  is required to close a gap of 100 metres, in a cycling race,&#xA;for different differences in speed of leading and chasing group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i need a tool to do the math on the fly. so that if one knows what speed the chasing group, one should be able to decide the speed to keep gap constant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8393" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T17:07:16.880" Title="What will be the time to close a gap to catch a breakaway?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;racing-strategy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2013-10-27T05:38:29.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-13T18:41:26.657" Score="2" ViewCount="3837" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BMX forsale, but I would like to know what make the frame is so I can determine how much it is worth.&#xA;Does anyone recognise this symbol on the frame?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSItz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BMX - Photo of frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help&#xA;Jon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8394" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T00:00:58.757" Title="What make is my BMX frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18064" CreationDate="2013-10-13T18:47:41.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the exact size. To figure it out, you'd need some detailed measurements. If it fits, there's really no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's more likely a problem with a &quot;ladies&quot; (low top tube) bike if it's smallest size and/or if the frame is sized for a suspension fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the picture of the bike. See how the distance between the top tube and the down tube is quite narrow up by the head tube? It's possible that with the smaller sizes of this bike, there isn't enough room to fit both of the bike rack's posts inside that triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that bike comes in 3 different sizes. The bigger sizes have a longer head tube and a longer top tube, so there's more room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike fits on the rack without that &quot;beam&quot; bar, there's really no significant problem. There won't be any rack stability issues, since the weight of the bike really doesn't change much with that tilt. The handlebars probably won't tilt far enough to hit anything. It's possible that it will interfere with fitting 3 bikes on the rack, since the rear wheel will be up where the bike next to it's handlebars need to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T18:47:41.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-13T20:32:17.413" Score="9" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;Months ago I changed a tyre on my utility bicycle in street clothes.  An unfortunate set of vulcanising stains are now on street clothes I'd like to wear more often.  How do I remove dried vulcaniser from medium weight cotton cloth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T15:42:01.540" Title="How to remove dried vulcaniser from cotton clothes?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18066" CreationDate="2013-10-13T20:33:53.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike is one of the Haro Nyquist siganture models. There were a few different models and years so you would need to get the serial number and deciper from &lt;a href=&quot;http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=206889&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BMX Museum Haro Serial Number Info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance if the S/N starts with R24W5.... it will be a 2005 Haro R24 Nyquist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-10-14T01:07:41.343" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T01:07:41.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5611" CreationDate="2013-10-14T02:56:51.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is yellow is better for moving objects and orange is better when you're lost and needed to be found/rescued. Consider the following quotes from Wikipedia (not exact colors, but close):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/School_bus_yellow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;School bus yellow&quot;&gt;School bus yellow&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&quot;The color was chosen because it attracts attention and is noticed quickly in peripheral vision, faster than any other color. Scientists describe this as follows: &quot;Lateral peripheral vision for detecting yellows is 1.24 times greater than for red.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_orange&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Safety orange&quot;&gt;Safety orange&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&quot;Safety orange is used to set objects apart from their surroundings, particularly in complementary contrast to the azure color of the sky (azure is the complementary color of orange, and therefore there is a very strong contrast between the two colors).&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;however&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-visibility_clothing#Cyclists&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hi-vis clothing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A 2009 Australian study of drivers trying to see stationary cyclists on a closed circuit found that fluorescent vests (without retro-reflective stripes) were not a significant improvement on black clothing at night, and that retro-reflective strips were more effective when attached to knees and ankles than on a more or less static jacket.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So maybe we should just drop the vest and put reflective strips on legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T02:56:51.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17377" CreationDate="2013-10-14T02:58:35.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mounted a cantilever brake on the fork. It works well enough. Having twice the stopping power is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also upgraded my pads to larger ones and got rid of extra cable slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I think my stopping power is increasing now that the black paint on the braking surfaces is wearing away, showing shiny aluminum rim instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4552" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T02:58:35.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18075" CreationDate="2013-10-14T07:30:24.200" Score="5" ViewCount="668" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a 3 meter wide track, the incline is 30 degrees, the terrain is dirt road with some sand, rocks, maybe mud. An at least 90 degree turn is approaching, and you have clear visibility of the whole turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How do you choose consciously (and with practice subconsciously) your path through the turn, in order to minimize loss of speed? What factors affect the decision and in what way?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is the scenario. The incline is constant 30 degrees. A and B indicate the terrains on both sides of the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xHRvy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What effect on the decision has the estimate how much is A and B dangerous? For example, if B is a 100m drop, and A is lush field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of taking the turn entirely on the outer edge. This has the effect of increasing the turning radius. On the other hand, one slip and the bike leaves the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GA51M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other extreme, here is an example of taking the turn as tightly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3myxv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, if there is another turn very near, the exit line of the first turn directly affects the attack line of the second turn. What are the strategies to deal with a &lt;strong&gt;double turn&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-09-01T16:58:45.877" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T16:58:45.877" Title="MTB: choosing trajectory (line) through a turn" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18074" CreationDate="2013-10-14T14:07:43.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cornering is an essential mountain biking technique, regardless of the type of turn you're going into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1: Turn to obstacle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With clear visibility you should make the turn so the exit lines you up for how you plan to ride the upcoming obstacle. Usually this means taking the turn wide (high) so you can pull the bike back into line easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2: Single turn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A single turn leaves you with only one decision: fast or slow? The lower you go through the turn, the tighter the radius and the more speed you will carry (conservation of momentum). But like any type of riding, maintaining control at speed can be difficult, which may cause you to take a wider line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3: Turn to turn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Consider an S-curve. You'll want to kind of approach it with the idea of slaloming through the turns. This means picking whichever line will bring you into the entrance line of the next turn. Again, this usually means riding further out, then coming back in to the entrance of the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, as you mentioned in example 1, there are times when the other side of the berm isn't so pleasant if you happen to overshoot. Here it's about how much courage you have! If you have the skills and want to ride high then go for it, otherwise scrub a little speed and take the tighter line. And really, there's always the ideal situation, then there's what happens on the trail, which is often very different from how the ideal works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T14:07:43.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18065" CreationDate="2013-10-14T17:07:16.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;how much time is required to close a gap of 100 metres, in a cycling race, for different differences in speed of leading and chasing group&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a speed difference of 1 metre per second, the time is 100 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a speed difference of 2 metres per second, the time is 50 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a speed difference of 0.5 metres per second, the time is 200 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, for a speed difference of &quot;&lt;code&gt;x&lt;/code&gt;&quot; metres per second, the time is &quot;&lt;code&gt;100 divided by x&lt;/code&gt;&quot; seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;i need a tool to do the math on the fly. so that if one knows what speed the chasing group, one should be able to decide the speed to keep gap constant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the gap constant, the lead group must maintain exactly the same speed as the chasing group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T17:07:16.880" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-10-14T17:07:16.880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18038" CreationDate="2013-10-14T19:58:08.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tested everything from 35 to 32, 28, 24 and finally to 23 from different brands. The overall experience depends on several factors, most notably the kind of riding you do, your weight, frame design and material etc. For the same tire type (ie a decent road tire) a 32 tire will give good comfort for a heavy rider and is excellent for everyday use. I chose 28 (Continental 4 seasons) for my city/commute bike and I am quite happy but the ride is definitely harder, especially with my aluminium frame. Tires below 28 are only for road bike use, ideally with a carbon frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, if you are heavy or ride bad roads, get the 32. If you are skinny or ride good quality tarmac, you can consider 28. Invest in good quality, things like tpi (threads per inch) are very important. Make sure you use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;correct pressure&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8402" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T19:54:19.087" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T19:54:19.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18083" CreationDate="2013-10-14T20:48:33.690" Score="8" ViewCount="3467" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the risks of allowing a fork to bottom out, could this cause damage to or worse a catastrophic failure of the fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to increase my preset sag to  around 30% and believe I should be fine with 120mm of travel on relatively tame XC single track. However the pressure for this is significantly under the recommended psi for my weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T02:39:55.083" Title="What is the risk of bottoming out a fork?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18046" CreationDate="2013-10-14T21:31:40.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cranks are always spun in the same direction and the threads are located so the cups don't get loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headset does not have a direction where the spinning is happening and it is not possible to have self-tighning cups. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also fork gives vertical load, directed into the threads. Also there is a big frontal load on the fork which will be transferred into single directional side-load on a thread. A thread can cope with each of these factors separately, but both of these, combined with constant vibrating, will eventually cause the thread to fail, especially in aluminium frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T21:31:40.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18078" CreationDate="2013-10-14T21:38:03.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottoming out of a fork CAN cause a failure of a fork. I'm speaking from my experience where I ruined 2 DH forks in a space of a week. Both by bottoming out on harsh landings. However, this might be a fault of the fork construction (both of them were the same brand/model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you are talking about XC and tame trail, I can't see the same things happening to you. I've bottomed out forks many times without failures. Bottoming out is not nice, but the forks survived in most cases (apart from the 2 above). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So go and play with the air pressure. You'll feel that air is lacking before you bottom out. Just pump some air in. Also, air forks are working as a progressive springs, so you'll need to try hard to bottom out 30% sag on 120mm travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T21:38:03.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1592" CreationDate="2013-10-14T23:03:36.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some black spray paint should do the job for you. Just a light coat, enough to make the white lettering disappear, should last a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T23:03:36.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18074" CreationDate="2013-10-15T01:01:46.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Aaron has a great answer, but he missed probably the most significant point .. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost always, take the line most traveled. Unless you are a track builder (I hope not, as I would hope someone building tracks would not need to ask this question), there will be a line that others have used, or you are on &quot;wild&quot; tracks...... If its dirt/sand/mud it will be obvious.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarely there is actually a faster but less obvious line thorough the corner that the unwashed masses have not found. This is where some real fun and learning starts to happen - find it. Even if there is not a better line, searching for it will teach you why the line is where it is. Ride the line everyone else takes, follow some really good riders into the corner, get really good at riding this line as well as you can (within your limits of skill, time availability, boredom etc).  Now, go back, and pick a new line, ride it, and see how you go. Feel the difference. Follow some good rider through, and see if you make ground against them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once spent an hour on one corner with a coach- a never forgotten lesson, if you can, do the same - pay someone who is really good to show you. Get lessons -  a few hundred dollars will speed you up more than a multi-thousand dollar bike, and unlike a bike - the lessons learned last a lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that you own speed and fitness plays apart - a top level rider may carry enough speed to get around the top faster than going tight, but you may be better staying tight. A weak rider on a heavy bike may be better to maintain speed, where as a powerful rider on a super light bike can accelerate quicker, so may be able to loose a bit of speed for a tighter line.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T01:01:46.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18078" CreationDate="2013-10-15T02:34:23.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottoming out once in a while is OK and will probably not damage your fork. The forks have bottom out bumpers which prevent any metal to metal impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that you are bottoming out too frequently then you need to do one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase the PSI (in case of air spring)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change coil to a harder one (in case of coil)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase high speed compression damping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;change fork and/or bicycle in case your riding style goes beyond of the capabilities of your current equipment (for example you are doing AM on an XC bike, or DH on an AM bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However the pressure for this is significantly under the recommended psi for my weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Recommended psi&quot; are just recommendations and your weight is just one parameter. Other parameters which play role in this are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gear weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fork condition (in regards of servicing, tuning, oil wts and oil condition)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;riding style&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stance on the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should only care about sag % and the amount of travel that you use in your regular do-it-all rides (more is better; 80-90% of travel used is the usual).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T02:39:55.083" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T02:39:55.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-15T14:00:54.537" Score="3" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a reference/source/method for definitively determining the width of a bicycle tire without actually having it in hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a 2009 Jamis Aurora which came stock with 32 mm Vittoria Randonneurs.  I wore the rear tire through, so I did some research on new tires and the 35 mm Schwalbe Marathon Mondial sounded like it fit my needs.  Googling around forums, I gathered that it would be fine to put a 35 mm tire on the Aurora.  This turned out to be not true -- it seized up against the frame right away.  Interestingly, the contact was actually on the chain stay, not the seat stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a little bummed out by that, but I put the Mondial on the front (which fit fine) and threw the (formerly front tire) Vittoria Randonneur on the rear.  Having now riden on the the Mondial, it makes  huge difference: it feels way nicer than the Randonneurs.  I want to know what I can replace my remaining Randonneur with, but am concerned about it seizing up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record my rim width is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=506872&amp;amp;storeId=10053&amp;amp;catalogId=10052&amp;amp;langId=-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;20 mm.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, doesn't it seems odd that a 'Touring' frame cannot support a 35mm tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7299" LastActivityDate="2018-05-10T17:22:33.990" Title="Definitive reference for tire widths?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;failure&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-15T15:37:01.803" Score="0" ViewCount="805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a Madsen bike for my wife, and now I am looking at how best to transport it.  I have a Suburban with a roof rack.  The bike is 88&quot; long with the handlebars turned, and I don't know if I should try to find a hitch-mounted carrier or a roof-mounted.  Anyone tackled this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madsencycles.com/bikes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Madsen Bike&lt;/a&gt; is a cargo bike with a large bucket over the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1709" LastEditorUserId="1709" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T16:19:53.480" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T02:04:12.303" Title="How can I transport a Madsen bike?" Tags="&lt;car-rack&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18086" CreationDate="2013-10-15T16:20:57.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt it is going to work on any rear rack. You may be able to install two roof racks end to end or buy an extra long one for tandems. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rackattack.com/product-pages/thule-558p-tandem-carrier.asp?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=product-feed&amp;amp;utm_campaign=google-products&amp;amp;utm_term=100558P&amp;amp;gclid=CKf7rrWemboCFdAWMgodllgADg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rackattack.com/product-pages/thule-558p-tandem-carrier.asp?utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_medium=product-feed&amp;amp;utm_campaign=google-products&amp;amp;utm_term=100558P&amp;amp;gclid=CKf7rrWemboCFdAWMgodllgADg&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, it should fit inside the Suburban. &#xA;Another idea would be to stand it up on top the truck after installing some sort of board. The huge kickstand should hold it up and just stabilize it with straps. Headroom will likely be a problem so it might also work to set a blanket down and just lay the bike on its side and strap it down that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a front load cargo bike and don't drive it often but when I do need to I just throw it inside my station wagon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7814" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T16:20:57.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18097" CreationDate="2013-10-15T16:47:01.650" Score="6" ViewCount="1125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done exactly 2879 km on my cassette, and currently I got myself a new chain which is a third for this cassette. With first chain I made 1985km, but I already noticed a significant degradation in shifting so I replaced the chain. Then with the second chain I did only 894km, but did not experienced misshifting, I just measured the chain with a chain tool (two different tools) and and it showed lots of stretch, so I replaced for the 3rd time. Now I am wondering will this chain with this much &quot;worn&quot; cassette last at least some reasonable time/km/miles? I have done 33km with this new chain to see how will it perform and it didn't skipped at all, I could still call it a precise shifting through all the gears, but on some cogs there's a &quot;grinding&quot; feel if you know what I mean. I always keep my chain, cassette and crank clean after every ride, road or off road. So would it be wise to get a new cassette at this point? Or try and see how long will this new chain last? In case someone is interested the cassette is shimano 50-9 11-34, first two chains were hg53 and the 3rd one is kmc x9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nzare.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cassette&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8409" LastEditorUserId="8409" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T21:03:31.853" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T00:11:06.850" Title="Help with cassette, worn or not?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-15T17:30:03.720" Score="5" ViewCount="5871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've crashed hard, handlebar rotated as much as it could and I guess rear brake cable was stretched. Braking became soft. Time to bleed I thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm completely unable to bleed it. Tried some many times w/o any success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test my bleeding techniques I've rebleed other (front) brakes - everything is fine. Even tried to push air first and then fix it by rebleeding. Works perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I've tried to move parts of working brakes to non-working brakes and bleeding each time. Turned out that the fail point is cable (hose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I don't see any leaks or damages. At all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes: Avid Elixir 3 and it uses DOT fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that possible for the cable to have some sort of invisible internal leak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8410" LastEditorUserId="8410" LastEditDate="2013-11-01T14:39:39.460" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T14:39:39.460" Title="Hydraulic brake cable invisible leak. Possible?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18091" CreationDate="2013-10-15T19:07:55.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking it is possible. But you should also make sure that the pistons on the rear caliper are not pushed out too much which could lead to possible oil leak, usually but not necessary when the brake pads are too worn (say less then 0.5mm). I had lots of leaking problems with one of the Shimano brakes in the past, and like you I couldn't identity the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could start by replacing the brake hose with the new one, which should help narrow the problem. Other than that the canister cap on the brake lever knows to give problems sometimes. Make sure the cap is well tucked in in the right place, also don't forget that there is usually a small piece of thin rubber between the canister cap and the lever which also stops oil going out. One more major thing that can also go wrong with the lever is the small piston below the thing you actually press to brake. One piston pushes the oil from the lever, and the other two pistons (or four in same cases) push the brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the best way the determine where oil leaks is to fill the system with new oil, push out the air if there is any and leave it a couple of days to sit like that, but also wrap some toilet paper tight around places that could possibly leak oil, around both hose ends, canister lever and piston and caliper and inspect the t.paper every couple of hours for oil marks. It may sound silly but can actually help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8409" LastEditorUserId="8409" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T21:14:01.020" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T21:14:01.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18085" CreationDate="2013-10-15T20:09:01.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had similar issues with mountain bike tires. While the industry seems to have done a good job of standardizing rim sizes, tire width seems to vary. One brands 2.0 inch tire can be larger than another brands 2.1. Of course there is some variances with rim widths and tire pressure and tread design, but overall it seems there are no meaningful standards for width. This is where a good relationship with your local shop can be helpful. They may allow you to try sizes and brands to find a good fit. The added cost of buying locally may be offset by not paying return shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T20:09:01.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18089" CreationDate="2013-10-15T21:09:46.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like there could be some wear on the smaller cogs but it's hard to tell from the picture. It could just be the angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can usually tell whether or not a cassette is worn by looking at the teeth. Each tooth should be symmetrical, like a picture-perfect mountain top. As the cassette wears, those picture-perfect mountain tops will gradually mecome asymmetrical and start to look more like shark fins. The more they look shark fins, the more worn the cassette is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's usually the worst and most noticeable on the smaller cogs. If you use them all equally, the smallest will wear the fastest. If you spend less time on that one, you might notice it in the second or third smallest cogs. It's pretty rare to see significant wear on the middle and big cogs without wear on the smaller ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ever helpful Sheldon Brown has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; all about chain stretch and how it affects rear cogs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T21:09:46.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-15T22:42:23.063" Score="2" ViewCount="1258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am rebuilding a Trek 2005 model 6500 and my spec. sheet for the bike says it has a Shimano Alivio front derailleur.  Where do I find the model no. that should be stamped on the part? I don't see it anywhere on the part.  This is a 3 x 8 speed setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Jerry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T18:34:30.443" Title="Shimano Front derailleur" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18095" CreationDate="2013-10-16T00:01:52.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might have a hard time finding the exact same part that was originally on the bike. However, front derailleur is a pretty standard piece of kit and you can replace it with compatible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you need to look for when buying front mech:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road and MTB FDs are different&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano and SRAM FDs work with the others shifters (which is different for RDs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seatpost clamp diameter - size of the tube the mech is clamping around (Shimano FDs often come with shims but SRAM FDs do not)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the mech is top pull or bottom pull: the cable comes from above the derailleur (top pull) or below (bottom pull). Dual pull derailleurs work either way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are 3 clamp positions: high clamp sits above the mechanism, low clamp is at the same level of the mechanism and e type is on a frame which sits between the bottom bracket and the crankset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the new mech is 8 speed. 9 speed-mech won't work with 8 speed chain, as the chain widths are different.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-16T18:34:30.443" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T18:34:30.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18089" CreationDate="2013-10-16T00:11:06.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;By looking on the shape of the tooth on the biggest cog, it looks worn out and a time for a replacement. Grinding feeling on a clean chain is always a sign of wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worn-out cassette will will wear out chains much quicker. And you already feel that - second chain got only 50% of usage from the first chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just replace the cassette, before the new chain is also stretched out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. you are far too precise with your mileage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T00:11:06.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18002" CreationDate="2013-10-16T01:10:39.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please review the following two references as it possibly your D7 may be fall within the questionable Dahon models:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/images/performance/web/pdfs/Dahon_Folding_recall2009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.performancebike.com/images/performance/web/pdfs/Dahon_Folding_recall2009.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thorusa.com/dahon/technical/recall.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thorusa.com/dahon/technical/recall.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Dahon enthusiasts have a blog as well that may be accessed through the manufacturer's website and is useful for service tips as well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8411" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T01:10:39.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-16T05:27:04.753" Score="2" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about restoring an old bike I bought years ago, but I don't know what kind it is, to the best I could see, here are the numbers that was on the bottom: MOTSX (the 0 is a maybe) then 45 402 these were slanted beside the MOSTX, then these below were under them.&#xA;Mod 702 (almost sure it was a 7) then the numbers under Mod 12  12      86 (and spaced like that).&#xA;I know it's a 26&quot; boys, but I have never seem 2 small bars for top on a boys bike, plus they are not welded on frame under seat, but sit in special cups like a U that are welded on. I just wanted to make sure it was worth restoring. It looks to me like it's from the 50s or 60s. It has Schwinn on hand grips, but anyone could have switched those. Its in great shape, and won't take a lot to fix. Here a picture &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9LApI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;Thanks Tom Barnes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8412" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T18:01:13.253" Title="What Brand of Bicycle do I have?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18042" CreationDate="2013-10-16T05:52:15.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never seen a three to two hole adapter that also included toe studs.  Even if one existed you still have the problem of inadequate heel tread.  When you come into a barrier at full running speed and dismount, unless you have an aggressive heal tread (like on most mountain bike shoes), there is a good chance you will slip and crash.  Hitting barriers at speed sucks (I know this too well)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cost is an issue I suggest looking for used MTB shoes on a site like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.craigslist.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;craigslist&lt;/a&gt;.  Used MTB shoes are actually the best as the sole has lost some stiffness letting you run better during dismounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you came up with a method of adding a toe spike and heal tread to a road shoe, the typically ultra stiff road style shoe would be very difficult to run in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Half of the fun of cross is running!  Well at least for me :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T05:52:15.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16877" CreationDate="2013-10-16T06:10:08.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The springs simply keep the quick release (QR) skewer centered in the wheel hub, making it easier to insert the hub (and wheel) into the frame dropouts.  It has no safety function other than to facilitate seating the wheel correctly.  If the wheel is not seated correctly in the drops when you tighten the QR then you run the risk of the wheel coming out during a ride. That said, this is true whether or not you still have the QR springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When tightening the QR, it should be tight enough that the QR lever leaves a mark in the palm of your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you are getting a squeaky metal noise your single QR spring may be on backwards, or as pointed out by Daniel R Hicks' comment, the two springs could have gotten combined together. First check to see that you only indeed only have one spring and that two springs haven't gotten entangled.  When placing the springs back on the QR, the narrow end should point toward the hub, the wide end toward the end of the QR skewer. If the spring was installed backwards the wide end of the spring can get jammed into the frame and hub axle, potentially making a squeaking noise when tightening the QR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2018-09-07T18:08:04.377" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T18:08:04.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18047" CreationDate="2013-10-16T06:47:27.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know what you mean by &quot;on budget&quot;. Commuting 25+km one way throughout the year, I stopped experimenting with e.g. low tire pressure on otherwise unmodified bikes, or using cheap bikes during winter. Considering the (economic &amp;amp; health) risk you take with minimum modified, on budget bikes, I recommend to switch to public (or other means of) transportation to stay on budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For winter biking, IMO cost savings should not be highest priority. Otherwise you pay the price when you get hurt, hurt others, or end up with damaged equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way for me to be / feel as secure during winter as without snow and ice are studded tires. If your winter conditions are as light as I understand, the rim brakes on your commuter bike should be OK. However, especially when the daily temperature variation allow ice to melt and freeze again while your bike is parked, those brakes can become hard to use. And I would spend some money on lights, which will be battery lights if you are out for cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T06:47:27.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18212" CreationDate="2013-10-16T07:23:41.013" Score="11" ViewCount="55311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Shimano Sora on a 8-gear cassette, and have odd behavior and skipping, shifting under stress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This started with a trip to the mechanic for a tune up which replaced the chain. I had some skips so I replaced the cassette. Still more skipping, a second trip to the mechanic didn't do much good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried adjusting it myself and found some odd behavior:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Had to adjust the H screw way out, and it doesn't seem to reliably return to the same spot while pedaling (while working on it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I start at the smallest gear and shift to the largest, everything looks perfectly aligned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I start at the largest gear and shift to the smallest, the first click does almost nothing. The second goes to the 7th gear, third click to the 6th... and the seventh click skips from the 3rd gear to the first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After all this, it doesn't seem to move back into the original position without a little push.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on what's going wrong here? It seems like tension pulling the chain out is not sufficient, but I don't see any adjustment for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I barking up the wrong tree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8413" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T12:58:28.667" Title="Rear derailleur shifting poorly, skipping gears" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;skipping&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17795" CreationDate="2013-10-16T09:55:04.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked at the LBS and was answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame was apparently faced at the factory, pre-painting. There was a depression several mm long along the weld. They told me not to give it a sweat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short depressions are not problem, at most it could allow moisture inside. But re-facing the frame could remove too much material e.g. if the depression is a couple of mm deep, the 2mm of material have to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, when can improper facing BE &lt;strong&gt;a problem is when there is an elevated section&lt;/strong&gt;, or if half or more of the area is depressed. Then, when the cups are inserted, they will tilt, the axis will not be straight, and the bearings, axis and cranks will suffer elevated stresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T09:55:04.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-16T10:28:38.550" Score="3" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15747/replaced-shimano-bottom-bracket-now-front-derailleur-wont-shift-to-largest-gea&quot;&gt;Replaced Shimano Bottom Bracket, now front derailleur won't shift to largest gear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7936/how-do-i-measure-a-bottom-bracket&quot;&gt;How do I measure a bottom bracket?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the only thing that mattered when replacing a bottom bracket was the thread size (68mm) and the spindle length. - unsavory&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Me too. I had thought that the things to consider are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread specification e.g BC 1.37 x 24, English or Italian&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread width: 68 or 73mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17359/what-types-of-bb-axle-to-crankarms-interfaces-are-there&quot;&gt;Cranks interface&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spindle length e.g. 113mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now it turns out the axis offset matters. How do I determine this before purchase. E.g. in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/BB/EV-BB-ES25-2549_v1_m56577569830608715.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;datasheet&lt;/a&gt; there is no mention if the axis is symmetrical or offset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When should I be worried about unsymmetrical BB spindles and where should I check to ensure compatibility?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T23:48:19.630" Title="Selecting a compatible BB: spindle offset" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18111" CreationDate="2013-10-16T10:39:19.157" Score="7" ViewCount="10429" Body="&lt;p&gt;somehow the alloy braking surface of my rear wheel's rim has got a series of quite shallow lacerations, less than a mil' deep bunched quite closely together (the effected area is no more than 1/8 of the rim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I brake (side pull road bike brakes) I can hear it making a different sound on each rotation has the damage goes past the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels are Reparto Corse's which came with my Bianchi, they are new and have less than 1k miles (probably way less). And they are fine in every other respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess my options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave it and let it smooth out with use. May take some time and wear down brake pads faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly sand the worst offending parts with high grit abrasive paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fill the damage with expoxy (or similar) then sand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the rim (would it worth the labour cost?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So are any of these good options or do you have any idea what you may also do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8414" LastEditorUserId="8414" LastEditDate="2013-10-16T13:11:40.630" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T13:13:24.333" Title="Fixing damage to brake rim surface" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9196" CreationDate="2013-10-16T11:29:10.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good recipe for a cheap, simple homemade degreaser is water + borax + washing (laundry) powder, mixed in the ratio 12:4:1. Keep it in a jar as spray bottles can get clogged (but might be worth a try for ease of application).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works on my bike. Some soaking and/or scrubbing with an old toothbrush is required for stubborn muck and grease, for example: when overhauling headset or BB bearings and it should work for derailleurs too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8415" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-10-16T13:43:31.323" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T13:43:31.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18113" CreationDate="2013-10-16T11:37:15.353" Score="4" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3197/what-are-the-benefits-of-external-bottom-brackets&quot;&gt;What are the benefits of external bottom brackets?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An outboard BB includes any BB which uses the same BSA or Italian threading as older style BB's, but places a larger bearing outside the frame, rather than a s,Allen bearing inside the frame. This increases BB stiffness and durability, while reducing weight. - &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/12858/3927&quot;&gt;zenbike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if external bearing BBs are better, why don't all bikes use them? I have never seen a low-end bike with external BB. Are they inherently harder to manufacture? To install?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T15:32:24.140" Title="If external bearing BBs are better, why use traditional ones?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-16T12:07:55.700" Score="3" ViewCount="1729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a bicycle like &lt;a href=&quot;http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/anzeigen/s-anzeige/trekking-rad-%7C-corratec-%7C-21-gang/140958595-217-2641&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; (90's trekking/city bike). When I got it, the headset seemed overtightened, when I took it apart I saw that it was somewhat damaged (looks like ridden for some time while being too loose). I noticed that the bottom bearing is needle, upper was regular ball bearing. I managed to get it together and tighten it just right, but I think it should replaced anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I be able to replace it with ordinary ball bearing based headset (I guess I won't be able to find the same ball/needle set easily)? Are head tubes for threaded headsets all the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T15:05:21.987" Title="Replacing needle bearing threaded headset with an ordinary one" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18107" CreationDate="2013-10-16T13:13:24.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've hit the major repair options in your question. I've heard of people filling in spots on a fork stanchion before and having it work OK, so I'd assume a rim would probably work too. The only difference might come from when the rim heats up due to braking, the filler could expand/contract differently than the rim material and get dislodged again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend sanding as removing more material will make the braking surface uneven anyways. If it were me, I'd leave the damage as is and only address it if it starts to cause the brake pads to wear very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T13:13:24.333" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18110" CreationDate="2013-10-16T15:05:21.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In replacing a threaded headset on an older bike, there are two other considerations we need to make beyond selecting between ball bearings or needle bearings (though, IMO needle bearings are ideal for a number of reasons that I won't get into.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you need to measure the &lt;strong&gt;stack height&lt;/strong&gt;. Stack height is the amount of space the headset takes up, not including the parts that fit inside of the head tube. If you measure the entire length of the steerer tube and subtract the height of the head tube you wind up with a difference that is taken up by headset cups, bearings, the keyed washer, and the lock nut. You can add or subtract spacers to make fine adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To measure the stack height, simply measure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MNNSa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Headset stack height&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll wind up with a measurement in millimeters. Try to find a new headset with a stack height equal to or less than what you have. If there are spacers installed (smooth or knurled rings between the top lock nut and the upper race) ignore them, but be sure to include the height of the lock nut and keyed washer (just under the lock nut.) If you wind up with a new headset that is just slightly too tall, you can omit the keyed washer if you use some thread locking compound on the lock nut, but it would be better to just get the right dimension in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing you need to do (and this will be more difficult) is to verify that you have an ISO headset (as opposed to a JIS headset... more extensive information about different headset measurements and how to adjust them &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown and Headsets&lt;/a&gt; here.) ISO is the standard size, but JIS headsets were used on lots of Japanese and Taiwanese bikes from the 70s until the early 90s. There are &lt;strong&gt;many&lt;/strong&gt; other sizes, but for most 90s bikes this will suffice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finally get to your question...&lt;strong&gt;no not all bicycle headset frame cups are identical.&lt;/strong&gt; Another measurement, the diameter of the fork crown seat, also varies between standards. Two common threaded headsets you'll run into are 1&quot; ISO and 1&quot; JIS and they are ever so slightly different. If you have access to a lock nut wrench and metric calipers discerning between the two will be pretty straightforward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove or loosen the fork in the frame enough to see the fork crown race when you push the fork down and lift up the bearings and retainers. You need to measure the &lt;strong&gt;inner diameter&lt;/strong&gt; of that fork crown race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SsC1q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fork Crown Race&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork crown race in the photo is bronze colored, while the seat at the bottom of the steerer is silvery. The seat is slightly larger than the steering tube, so measure right where the seat and the race meet. In an ISO headset that measurement will be 26.4 mm. In a JIS headset that measurement will be 27.0 mm. I will tell you from my own experience that the two are not interchangeable. Additionally, the frame cups for an ISO headset are 30.2 mm in diameter while JIS cups are 30.0 mm. It is much easier to fudge installing 30.2 mm cups in a frame designed for 30.0 mm cups, but have a shop do it (and only in a steel frame.) Finding cheap JIS headsets is easy enough and, like I said, ISO is pretty standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final note: replacing a headset is actually pretty doable for most people so long as they're careful and reasonably clever. If you're unsure about any of the steps you should take it to a shop. It is a quick installation and relatively inexpensive. They have all of the right tools which will make the process far easier than using homemade tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T15:05:21.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18109" CreationDate="2013-10-16T15:32:24.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The average cyclist won't notice the difference in weight and torsion stiffness. Also most bicycles that are not used for sports purposes will not live long enough that their BB will ever wear out that much that it has to be replaced, therefore also low wear is not of huge importance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why are conventional BBs cheaper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the question of a closed cartridge (conventional BB) vs. a (some kind of) open (external BB) system. One huge advantage of the closed cartridge approach is that the manufacturer has less points where they have to meet exact dimensions: for a conventional everything is OK as long as the threading is right and the axle is square – especially the axle can handle some tolerance at the square cones where the cranks are mounted. The rest of the internals can be constructed more or less freely which makes work easy for the manufacturer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the external case the axle is part of the crankset, but not necessarily from the same manufacturer. Nevertheless it must fit very exactly into the bearings of the BB. That means the lead-though for the axle as well as the axle itself have to be worked very exactly to fit together also among different manufacturers. Above that, if the BB consists of two halves (Shimano Hollowtech II) then the two halves have to align very well towards each other. In sum there are more production steps that require higher precision compared to a conventional cartridge BB which makes stuff more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point is, that in the closed system approach the BB itself stays encapsulated if you remove the cranks. In the case of the external BB the BB is somewhat open after removing the cranks which requires to be more careful when doing maintenance work. That means it's either more time and effort for the mechanic that you have to pay or if you do it yourself there are more points where you should know what to better not touch or to keep clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T15:32:24.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18095" CreationDate="2013-10-16T18:05:15.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look on Shimano's site. They list two types of Alivio - 8-speed and 9-speed - so presumably the page you're after is the 8-speed kit: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/mountain/Alivio.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/mountain/Alivio.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three different options here appear to be the FD-M410E, FD-M412 and FD-M413. There are photos of all three (looks like the main difference is the position of the clamp), so you should be able to work out what you have right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T18:05:15.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18018" CreationDate="2013-10-17T13:07:32.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does the type of patch (pre-glued, non-pre-glued) matter a ton?&lt;/em&gt; Based on my experience I have more confidence in the non-pre-glued ones, but I've used both types succesfully.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Should I apply patch to a partially inflated tube or deflated tube?&lt;/em&gt; I always apply the patch to a deflated tube. Since you have a leak, inflating and then applying the patch before it deflates again just leads to sloppy work and possibly airbubbles between tube and patch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does the tire-liner stuff really work in preventing flats?&lt;/em&gt; I don't think so. (see also batman's answer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Are my tires to blame for all my flats?&lt;/em&gt; Possibly, if they are really very thin, or there are sharp bits sticking through to the inside (you do check for that when fixing the tube I assume). However, with frequent leaks the first suspect I turn to is tire pressure. You should properly inflate your tires, this prevents more leaks then any specific tire can. 4 bar for bigger MTB-style or hybrid bicycle tires, upto 8 bar for thin road-bike tires. Not enough pressure leads to frequent pinch-flats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T13:07:32.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18104" CreationDate="2013-10-17T15:24:21.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've experienced similar setup difficulties with my rear derailleurs and my advice is to check your cable tension. There a few ways to do this (not all may apply):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Barrel adjuster at the shifter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Barrel adjuster at the derailleur (less common)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manual: release the clamp on the cable and pull it tight again, making sure there's no slack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other spots to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beneath the bottom bracket where the cable guide sits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ends of cable housing: are they clogged?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any crimps in the cable/housing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than this, you might just have to take it in and let the shop do all the work/adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T15:24:21.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-17T16:30:11.420" Score="2" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding my bicycle legally on the sidewalk, I approach an intersection controlled by a stop sign. Let's say there are wheelchair ramps at the intersection, and there may or may not be painted pedestrian crosswalk lines. Must I make a full stop before crossing the side street?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question pertains to California law but I realize that the answer may differ in other jurisdictions. Also, it may make a difference whether or not there are painted crosswalk lines, and whether the road is to my left or to my right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strategy, if legal, may be useful to bicyclists who may avoid having to make a full stop by riding on the sidewalk shortly before reaching the intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another situation is a 3 way intersection with 3 stop signs where I am not crossing a side street. If I am on the street, I know I must stop, but I am quite confident that I am not required to stop if I am on the sidewalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side issue, it does appear that it is legal for me to ride on the sidewalk in California with the road to my right and continue to ride between the crosswalk lines across an intersecting street. California law treats the crosswalk as an extension of the sidewalk, thus giving me the same rights that I have on the sidewalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8426" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-10-17T17:13:40.423" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T10:26:48.663" Title="Must a Bicyclist Riding on a Sidewalk Stop at a Stop Sign?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;california&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18118" CreationDate="2013-10-17T16:47:03.037" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the state's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chp.ca.gov/html/bicycleriding.html&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt; about bicycles, there are only laws against riding on sidewalks for certain locales. Otherwise, similar to most states, you are governed as a pedestrian when riding on the sidewalk. That means if you dart in front of traffic unexpectedly, even in a crosswalk, you can still be at fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you should ALWAYS stop at an intersection, regardless of whether you are a pedestrian or a vehicle. It's polite and it's a heck of a lot safer than assuming the coast is clear. And don't be that guy who rides on sidewalks just to avoid traffic laws and stop signs, nobody likes that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T16:47:03.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-17T18:05:53.073" Score="4" ViewCount="623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a commuter and I'm looking for shoes that won't get totally messed up by my pedal toe clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using something &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lordandtaylor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/en/lord-and-taylor/blackley-leather-boat-shoes?gclid=CM_Q5bK6nroCFQkSMwodaGoAUg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;similar to these&lt;/a&gt;. Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2920" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T13:21:19.543" Title="Nice Work Shoes That Won't Get Messed up in Toe-Clips" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-10-27T05:37:19.483" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18120" CreationDate="2013-10-17T18:13:28.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chromeindustries.com/us/en/footwear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chrome Industries&lt;/a&gt;, they make a lot of commuter apparel and have a whole line of clip and non-clip shoes. I'm not sure how dressy you need, but these might work for you. Plus if you ever decided to go with clipless pedals you'll have shoes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T18:13:28.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16804" CreationDate="2013-10-17T20:19:08.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My formula is this one: take the distance you ride on the flat and divide by 1.5 to convert to hilly-route distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year I completed a 2200-km bicycle trip across the Alps in 22 days and crossed 10 mountain passes above 2000 m. Besides that I also did some trips in the Andes. So the formula is based on a very good sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another rule of thumb I find useful is that I need to cycle 1 hour for every 500 m of vertical difference. (That's based on a comfort level of 100 km per day on hilly terrain; adjust the number as needed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only recommendation is to be sure the ratio of your lowest gear is no more than 0.8 between the chain ring and the cog; otherwise you may need to push the bicycle on the steeper parts in the Alps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5274" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T20:19:08.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1983" CreationDate="2013-10-17T20:52:49.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride year-round in Oregon in the woods.  In the sunshine (yes, it happens more than you'd expect in Oregon) I ride my full-suspension bike with many gears.  In the winter, I ride my rigid, single-speed bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rigid, single-speed is much easier to clean, and when parts do wear out, they are much cheaper to replace.  Plus there are many fewer parts to wear out.  Riding in the woods in the winter puts a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; of wear on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search shows the following prices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BMX chain: $5-$10    10-speed chain: $20-$40&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BMX free hub: $20-$25, 10-speed cassette: $30-$60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no derailleurs, 10-speed derailleur: $15 (front) $50 (rear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no shift cables, new cables/housing: $15&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus there's the mechanic cost (and time).  I can do the work myself, but I'm dog slow, so I take it to the shop - and that adds more $ to the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Of course those prices are just ball-park prices, you can find 10-speed parts for less than some single-speed parts, but you'd be getting low-end 10-speed parts and higher end single-speed parts.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edited to remove costs not associated with gearing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2013-10-18T23:06:06.850" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T23:06:06.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18012" CreationDate="2013-10-18T09:47:19.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tacx manufactures some great jockey wheels which are compatible with Shimano/Sram/Campagnolo products. Search for &quot;Tacx Jockey Wheels&quot; in your favourite online bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come with cartridge bearings which work great before you use them in muddy conditions (MTB, CX). After these heavy conditions I have found then to lock up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of a road bike, I would totally reccomend them, the difference when spinngin pedals backwards is noticable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T09:47:19.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17948" CreationDate="2013-10-18T09:54:15.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double check the chain - try to bend every link of it. Is there a stiff one? Bend it back and forth. Is the chain clean and well lubed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the derailleur. Is it parallel to the chain line? Look for bent derailleur hanger or other parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T09:54:15.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16665" CreationDate="2013-10-18T10:07:01.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will definitely notice the changes. I have found this online calculator to be the best of a kind: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gear-calculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gear-calculator.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just enter your gear combinations (for cogs use custom and drag 6 of them in rigth places) and wheel size.&#xA;For cadence use values 60-120 (these are &quot;comfortable&quot; values for short periods, &quot;normal&quot; would be around 90) to see the speed you can get with each gear combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also an option to compare two configurations, use your current config as a reference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2013-10-18T11:21:28.413" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T11:21:28.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18118" CreationDate="2013-10-18T10:26:48.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on local rules. In Latvia (Europe) a road sign is not applicable to you if it is located on the left of your path. Also, bicycle rules are not clear enough yet, so sometimes it is a grey area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T10:26:48.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18120" CreationDate="2013-10-18T10:30:48.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If keeping a 2nd pair of shoes at work isn't an option your best bet would probably be to get overshoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VpCvb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overshoes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should stop your toe clips from scuffing up your shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T10:30:48.873" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18120" CreationDate="2013-10-18T11:51:42.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't change the shoes, change the pedal. A hybrid pedal would satisfy both needs. It features a clip and a flat &quot;normal shoes&quot; side. Because for commuting sport-like conditions are probably not so important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/pedals/mountain/product.-code-PD-A530.-type-.pd_mountain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/pedals/mountain/product.-code-PD-A530.-type-.pd_mountain.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;greets Josef&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6989" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T11:51:42.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18104" CreationDate="2013-10-18T13:02:15.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a number of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely it sounds as if your cable is sticking/jamming. Try replacing your cable and cable housing. This shouldnt cost much for DIY (read up on how to do it, you dont want to crush the housing when cutting), but would cost more from a mechanic.&#xA;I would firstly check that your deraileur isnt out of alignment and/or loose or bent first. Another thing you can do is check that you have the right chain for your cassette and that the chain isnt worn (a cheap tool will check this for you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your mechanic has not solved this, I suggest trying a different one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T13:02:15.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-18T13:33:23.727" Score="3" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to get my first carbon bike next spring, it's a MTB with a carbon frame with some aluminium components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the things I should do and should not do, to avoid damaging it by improper maintenance? I see other threads here about people having problems with stuck seatposts an other, a compilation of all this knowledge plus additional tips would be welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T13:37:28.557" Title="Carbon bike specific maintainance" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-18T13:40:33.143" Score="2" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to purchase a fork crown race installation tool, ant this one is the only one available online. The IceToolz thing is &quot;to be delivered&quot; someday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am very skeptical of this tool, as it does not allow the user to hummer it with a hummer. How well would it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zImXz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T06:37:10.563" Title="Will this fork crown race installation tool work?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18027" CreationDate="2013-10-18T14:43:29.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither option is a good idea:&#xA;If you use caliper brakes for the cross race, they can easily be filled with mud and became useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with fixie you'll be very slow on steep uphills and it will be dangerous to downhill without a freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can try if it will be very simple race :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T19:01:09.013" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T19:01:09.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18131" CreationDate="2013-10-18T15:03:37.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always - Always! Follow the instructions regarding torque - otherwise you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; snap your frame/post etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for everything else, I think it's the same, I treat my carbon roadie as I would my aluminium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean it etc, but with carbon, if you have a crash or such, it would be an idea to check for cracks, and get them looked at!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5700" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T15:03:37.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16840" CreationDate="2013-10-18T15:05:16.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how much chainrings are on the cassette the problem may has different sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If ≤ 6 — you have a freewheel, and maybe the axle us curved (cheap wheels can obtain such problem in one year)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 7 — may be freewheel (see upper), but may be freehub (see lower)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If ≥ 8 — it's freehub, maybe all can be fixed by tighten hub together, but maybe hub is ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T15:05:16.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16840" CreationDate="2013-10-18T16:14:31.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's almost certainly a bent rear axle.  I'm willing to guess that you have a freewheel design, where your rear chainrings have the freewheel mechanism integrated.  The assembly then screws onto the rear wheel.  This design was universally used from the mid-80s back, and is still used on low-end bikes.  The design works ok for single-speed bikes, but as you add more gear sprockets on the back, the drive-side wheel bearings (at the edge of the wheel hub) must be further and further away from the frame.  The resulting forces are notorious for bending axles, even with good quality axles.  I've broken one axle cleanly through because of this issue.  On a low-end department store bike like yours, the axle is probably even weaker, so it's not surprising that it would bend, even if you haven't been abusing the bike badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to replace the rear axle, assuming that there is no additional damage.  It's probably best to take the bike to a bike shop, since the work is a bit messy and is a little finicky with reassembling and adjusting the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to do it yourself, you should do a bit of reading on how cup and cone rear hubs work (Sheldon Brown's site has some nice diagrams and advice: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html&lt;/a&gt;).  Then you could disassemble the wheel bearings, pull out the axle, find a matching replacement, then reassemble.  You would need wrenches to remove the rear wheel nuts, cone wrenches and grease to reassemble and readjust correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T16:14:31.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17098" CreationDate="2013-10-18T20:05:11.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried with bathroom sealant (supposed to be white, but dried clear/grey). After a couple of months cycling in all weathers it's still in there. Seems like a cheap and easy solution. Shown below in the right hex-bolt only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll now be adding this to the other bolts too. (Some credit should go to Darren Cope who suggested something very similar). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I9X3y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right hex-bolt protected with bathroom sealant&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T20:05:11.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17098" CreationDate="2013-10-18T21:22:53.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time I had this problem I ended up using pliers+screwdriver to break that washer between cleat and screws. After removing cleat I was able to get screws out with the same pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to drill them out was a complete failure for me too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2013-10-19T08:16:21.470" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T08:16:21.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18120" CreationDate="2013-10-19T01:11:55.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest just using a cheap pair of rubber &quot;over shoes&quot; designed for wearing in the rain to protect shoes. These are inexpensive and if it does rain, you're ready for inclement weather. These should keep your work shoes from getting marked up by the toe clips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T01:11:55.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18027" CreationDate="2013-10-19T03:20:27.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd have to say both sound like a pretty bad idea, with the fixie hard to mount/dismount and control in a cyclocross type situation. Sheldon brown does mention someone whose done it (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/singlecross.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/singlecross.html&lt;/a&gt;), but it seems like something you may want to do after considerable practice with the course in a non-fixie. You wouldn't be the first person to try it though (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/interviews/mike_clark/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/interviews/mike_clark/&lt;/a&gt;). As for a road bike, I'm not sure you want to put your road bike through a cross race. If its not too muddy and your road bike is set up with a stable geometry, you may come out alright with the road bike. I'd say if you have downtube shifters though, you will need to move to barend shifters or brifters or retroshift or something (you didn't say which Kona bike you had - they currently do a wide range of them and I have seen a Honky Tonk with downtube shifters for some reason...). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to pick up an old rigid mountain bike (say, a 80s-90s specialized rockhopper/hardrock) which should be pretty cheap and easy to come by, put some tires (look at some cross tires you were considering in 700c and find something which you think will be similar in 26) and decent brake pads and go for it. Lots of people use mountain bikes for beginner cross, and I think this option will probably keep your road bike in better condition and not be too different in price from the first option depending on which rigid mountain bike you start with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T03:20:27.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18104" CreationDate="2013-10-19T15:58:22.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First disconnect the cable to rear derailleur and using your hand push the derailleur towards the spokes and then release it. Do you feel any binding? If so, something is wrong with your derailleur. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the rear derailleur cable still disconnected, grab hold of the cable and slide it through the housings. Is it catching on anything? Some resistance is normal but it should move easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before reconnecting the cable, check the stroke on the rear derailleur. At the bottom, the guide pulley should line up with the smallest cog. Push the derailleur towards to the spokes until it stops. The guide pully should lineup with your largest cog. If either of these aren't true, use the H and L screws until they are.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Verify that your cassette lockring is properly tightened. A loose lockring will cause imprecise shifting as the cassette can move on the free hub body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the release lever on your shifter until it's full released and then reattach your rear derailleur cable. Press the upshift lever and adjust the barrel adjuster on the derailleur until chain moves up on cog. Do this a few times to make sure you've got just enough tension in the cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point the rear derailleur and shifter should be able to shift up and down your cogset. If you're still having issues, you might want to check the shifters themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the older 8 speed levers used to have a problem with releasing. The grease in the mechanism would dry out and cause the release mechanism to function poorly. You would mostly see this when releasing from your biggest cog. You can spray some lube into the shifter body while working the two shifter levers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastEditorUserId="6489" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T20:24:55.303" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T20:24:55.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18131" CreationDate="2013-10-19T21:16:41.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst carbon fibre is fantastic for bike frames; it is light and strong and can be formed into interesting shapes - one of the problems is that if the surface is damaged then it can affect the structural rigidity of the component, e.g. frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wear and Tear&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;So, it is vitally important to protect the frame as much as you can - especially if you live in a wet &amp;amp; muddy climate like I do.  The best solution is to use techniques like &quot;helicopter tape&quot;.  3M make a clear but quite thick tape that you can cut out and stick to any area where there could be damage or wear - e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;where the brake and gear cables touch the frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you have a dropper, then where the dropper cable touches the seat tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on the chain stays where shoes/boots can rub against the stays&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on the chain stays where the chain can slap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;round the down tube (if you use a bike rack for your car)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lower part of frame and BB where stones are kicked up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;check the frame for any score marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heat&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You don;t say what type of bike frame this is.  Some of the older bike frames used to bond aluminum sections onto carbon &quot;tunes&quot;.  In the early days I saw these melt due to the use of small (140mm) disk brakes getting way too hot and melting the epoxy glue holding it all together where the heat was transferred into the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very rare nowadays - but follow the manufacturers instructions for which types of brakes you should use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5603" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T21:16:41.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17999" CreationDate="2013-10-19T21:20:22.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the logo for K2 Bike - the sticker above is probably a retailer sticker.  K2 Bike was started in 1998 after the K2 organisation decided to merge their Ski, Skate and Bike brands under one brand.  The bike brand was a company that K2 had previously bought called Girvin Mountain Sports who sold the &quot;Proflex&quot; range of bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I was at the launch party!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5603" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T21:20:22.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18106" CreationDate="2013-10-19T22:34:15.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Shimano there are &quot;E&quot; and &quot;K&quot; variations of bottom brackets that refer to coaxial mounted front derailleurs and chain guards respectively. The BB variations provide for enough space on the drive side spindle to build in another &quot;ring&quot; of the derailleur or the chainguard carrier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For exact paramenters Sheldon Brown could be helpful too.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbdrop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbdrop.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6989" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T22:34:15.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2013-10-20T04:02:30.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a long-haired individual, I have a hair tie with me at all times. When I ride with a looser pair of pants, I just put the tie around the bottom of my pant leg. Done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also helps that I have a city/commuter/urban/hybrid bike that has a plastic piece outside the front gear set: &lt;a href=&quot;http://archive.raleighusa.com/archive/2011-hybrid/detour-45-11/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://archive.raleighusa.com/archive/2011-hybrid/detour-45-11/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, get a cruiser or something similar that has the chain entirely covered by a metal or plastic piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7550" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T04:02:30.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18132" CreationDate="2013-10-20T04:54:05.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will work; I have used similar tools successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://proftools.net/product/882/dornik-za-nabivane-na-konus-na-vilkata-unior-1615-4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; says that the tool is 0.5 kg (1.1 lb) of tool steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use &lt;em&gt;it&lt;/em&gt; as the hammer, gently tapping the race into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T06:37:10.563" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T06:37:10.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14740" CreationDate="2013-10-20T08:15:27.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some hydration packs (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://sourceoutdoor.com/product.php?id_product=29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source Hydration Systems&lt;/a&gt;) have a wider diameter than others and/or an insulated tube cover. Both of those can help keep water from freezing in the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I am associated with Source Hydration Systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8437" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2013-10-20T22:43:57.323" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T22:43:57.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3049" CreationDate="2013-10-20T18:57:56.283" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;the below link offered some good insight on the topic of frame geometry numbers and how they influence riding characteristics.  I do agree and should stress that rider preference and experience is an equal factor and when looking for a new frame, being informed and identifying this balance should be taken in consideration.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2011/02/the-geometry-of-bike-handling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2011/02/the-geometry-of-bike-handling/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8443" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T18:57:56.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18027" CreationDate="2013-10-20T23:51:21.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your road bike will fit a cross tire, then I'd just use that. 30 years ago when &quot;long reach&quot; calipers were standard, it was fairly common to use caliper brake bikes for cross. It's not ideal, but it will work as long as the course isn't super muddy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most road frames these days will only work with at most a minimal tread 28mm tire. There aren't many cross tires that would fit in &quot;standard reach&quot; brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you go with a fixed gear setup, I think you really want two brakes for riding dirt. By the time you convert the track bike, you're pretty close to what a used rigid MTB would cost. I have not raced cross with a fixed gear, but I've done a fair bit of dirt riding on a fixed gear ( see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.63xc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.63xc.com/&lt;/a&gt; ) and you really need a back brake that doesn't skid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T23:51:21.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="683" CreationDate="2013-10-21T00:10:52.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done this conversion with my 2006 Specialized Sequoia. However, I did only the front fork and wheel. Disk brakes do help a lot, but I think it's not worth the hassle that a retrofit on the rear wheel requires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to change the Brifters. Avid makes a mechanical disk brake ( BB7 ) that has a road version that works with standard brifters. ( I use Shimano 105 on my bike ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/avid/products/bb7-road-mechanical-disc-brake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sram.com/avid/products/bb7-road-mechanical-disc-brake&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a new front fork, wheel and the BB7 brake. Nashbar makes a low budget carbon Cross disk fork, I used a Winwood for my project. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_175019_-1_201511_10000_201514&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_175019_-1_201511_10000_201514&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a Surly CrossCheck, the geometry might be tweaked a bit, but it should be pretty close to the original. I build my own wheels, but if you can find a &quot;29'er&quot; front wheel with 9mm QR that should work just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;www.blueskycycling.com has a easton front wheel that is pretty cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy bolt on adapters for the rear wheel, but IMHO it's just not worth the hassle and expense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;google site:www.bikemag.com braketherapy &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T00:10:52.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14990" CreationDate="2013-10-21T09:01:40.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to another oval chainring maker, Osymetric, the Bio-Pace folks got it wrong by placing crank in line with the large edges of the chainring. According to them, with Bio-Pace you actually lost power. So their own recommendation is to assemble crank aligned with the shortest of diameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read on about Osymetric: &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2012/09/osymetric-gimmick-or-miracle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2012/09/osymetric-gimmick-or-miracle/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T09:01:40.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18154" CreationDate="2013-10-21T09:19:07.357" Score="2" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started learning trials stunts. I'm currently playing at a trackstand / wheelie / endo level, so basic stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, my knee and elbow on the lead foot side are hurting... I know quite a few people who have bad knee problems, and I'm a bit worried this may happen to me as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you experience the same pains when you started trials? What did you do to fight / avoid them, did it go better with practice and muscles, or am I just doing it wrong somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit, one month later&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case some people stumble upon this later, with the same questions in mind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've given myself some rest, about two weeks, to let my body recover. Now with more practice, I tend to do smoother moves, and manage to avoid hurting myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also try not to overestimate my capabilities and stop before I'm too tired and something bad inevitably happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always wear a helmet, there are enough videos online to know how it feels like not to wear one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wear gloves, they protect your all-important hands. Remember your hands are your first protection when you fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I eventually invested in knee protections: my right knee met the pedal a few times, and trust me it hurts badly now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay reasonably safe and enjoy your stunts :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastEditorUserId="8322" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T21:14:02.787" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T21:14:02.787" Title="Trials: knee and elbow hurting, am I doing it wrong?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-10-27T05:43:20.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18153" CreationDate="2013-10-21T10:08:26.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should be really asked to you physicist, not bicycle related forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are new to this, this can be &quot;normal&quot;, as your bones and ligaments are not used to constant shocks. Do not ignore the pain. Take more time off, if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is typical problem for runners without previous experience. You can not just start running half-martahons without knee pains which can later lead you to meniscus surgery. You need to start slow and use 10% rule (increase your distance/time per week by no more than 10%). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T12:27:40.303" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T12:27:40.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-21T13:15:58.397" Score="10" ViewCount="14144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to understand the physics of bike weight.  I have just made a switch from an 11Kg road bike to an 8Kg one (obviously there are many more factors and differences between the 2 bikes other than weight), and have noticed the benefit of reduced weight.  However I am not sure I understand it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say for example My combined weight is 8+75 for a total weight of 83Kg.  The difference between this and 86Kg is minimal, but is does make a difference seemingly beyond what I would expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I could equalise the total weight by carrying a pack or particularly heavy bidon/saddle pack) such that the combined weight could be the same, why is the lighter bike always seemingly faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read something about rotational mass, which seems to indicate that it's nothing to do so much with your combined weight as perceived through gravity, but with the equivalent lifting effort of the moving parts, namely your wheels, and in fact it's wheel weight that is the major factor because your are in effect having to lift half the wheel in order to produce forward momentum.  Is this a sort of gyroscopic affect whereby the easier it is to turn your wheel the faster you go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8449" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:50:41.167" Title="Why does reducing bike weight have such an impact on speeds?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18120" CreationDate="2013-10-21T13:21:19.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want foot retention without switching to clipless shoes, you could use pedal straps (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://restrap.co.uk/shop/diagonal-straps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ynotcycle.com/products/pedal-straps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;, or just search for &quot;pedal straps&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're fabric rather than metal or resin, so should do less damage to your work shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T13:21:19.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18131" CreationDate="2013-10-21T13:37:28.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon is incredibly strong &lt;em&gt;in the direction for which is has been designed to withstand stress and pressure&lt;/em&gt;, but can be susceptible to damage that might seem innocuous if received on say an Alloy bike.  Your frame for example is incredibly rigid and strong for impact travelling vertically up through your wheels, into your forks and stays, and through the frame.  But if you were to hit the frame &lt;em&gt;from the side&lt;/em&gt;, maybe take a careless knock horizontally say for example from a fall onto a hard object, it could break more easily than other materials.  This isn't to say it's weak, it isn't, but it can mean you might want to pay more attention when racking your bike not to whack your frame on the pedals of the next bike along etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One area that I think is key, is your chainstay.  If there is one thing I would advise anyone with a carbon bike to do, it's protect the chainstay.  The one area I have seen damaged multiple times across bikes in my team is on the chainstay, usually after a high speed chain drop where the chain has managed to fold itself at an unlikely angle to one side of the stay and then grind all down the side as the rider initially keeps pedalling.  Get a chainstay protector on that part, and keep it on.  You can get great ones made from neoprene and velcro with a rubber stripe over the top, or you can google how to make one from an old inntertube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, treat it like any other bike, but if you ever knock it just pay attention for cracks developing.  Looking at the obvious places like the joins, headtube etc when cleaning it as part of your maintenance ritual should let you spot any issues early should you have any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8449" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T13:37:28.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18029" CreationDate="2013-10-21T14:01:40.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The source of the problem was that the plastic body of the screw threads difficultly into the thread. The feeling is comparable to those metal bolts with rubber seal to prevent vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently, when I was screwing the bolt in, there was no increase in the feedback torque - it was moderately difficult to screw the bolt in, up until the head broke off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, firstly I tried to burn a slot in the body of the screw with a heated screwdriver. I got it several millimeters deep, but when I attempted to turn, half of the screw broke off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I tried drilling with a dremmel. The bolt is in the bottom of the front triangle, so even though I used a flexible arm (like the ones at the dentist's), I was unable to attack the screw co-axially and the drill bit constantly hit against the aluminum frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I tried a soldering iron. Bought a cheap, thin-nose, 30W iron and managed to remove a lot of material. This was the most successful method so far ... almost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having done everything possible, I inserted a steel screw and tried to chase the thread with it. To my disappointment, it didn't work. The &quot;nipple&quot; at the frame began rotating, with respect to the frame. The bolt become stuck within the &quot;nipple&quot;. Now I need to go to a LBS and ask if they could replace the thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: don't use plastic screws: they are evil. If you must, use a short-arm wrench e.g. 10 centimetres. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T15:04:29.037" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T15:04:29.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-21T17:33:09.680" Score="1" ViewCount="818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am rebuilding a Shimano HB-M475 front hub, but having trouble finding the replacement cones. This one has the M9 axle, but all of the replacement cones I have found are for a M10 axles. I need to know where I can find these cones for a 9 mm axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T19:49:16.513" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T20:41:40.120" Title="Need replacement cones for Shimano front hub" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18155" CreationDate="2013-10-21T19:22:05.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the physics are simple. To move an object of mass &lt;em&gt;m&lt;/em&gt; up an incline requires an amount of work proportional to the weight. This is the mass times the gravitational acceleration times the displacement &lt;em&gt;W = m g d&lt;/em&gt;. So for the heavier bike it requires more work.  It also requires more average power to lift it over the same rise in a fixed set of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if in your experiment with the same weights are then this physical effect is not there, it is just perception, or another physical phenomenon.  Also this is limited to climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The angular acceleration of your wheels is a factor as you are accelerating. As you apply torque to increase the angular velocity of the wheel, the moment of inertia is a factor. This is basically an accounting of how much mass and how far away it is from the axis. Think of a figure skater spinning with their arms out and then pulling them in to spin faster. Gravity on the wheels is a separate consideration, described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another physical phenomenon at play could be aerodynamic drag. In the simplest models, this is proportional to the cross sectional area, velocity squared, and drag coefficient.  Some say a heavier bike with better aerodynamic performance performs more efficiently overall.  Given the combined weight with the rider this could be true at sufficient speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally there could be a variety of fit factors on the lighter bike that make it feel easier and more efficient to you. It may even be that the fit puts you in a more aerodynamically advantageous position.  But you will feel better on a properly fitted bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try the new bike with the old wheels and a loaded bag. If it still feels faster, it must be  because it fits you better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8278" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T19:22:05.340" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18155" CreationDate="2013-10-21T20:47:46.853" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two major &quot;drags&quot; on a bike, on level ground, are the rolling resistance of the tires and the wind resistance of the bike and rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, up to a point, a tire with higher pressure will have lower rolling resistance, as will a tire with a smoother tread.  Tire width also figures in, but mostly in terms of how it influences pressure and tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wind resistance is affected by tire width, number of spokes, tube size, and rider position.  Generally, as the &quot;raciness&quot; of a bike increases, tire width and spoke count decrease and rider position becomes more prone (and hence more aerodynamic).  Tube size doesn't tend to vary much (and may actually increase as you go steel-&gt;aluminum-&gt;carbon) but that effect is slight and subtle differences in frame design can be more significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may also be ergonomic changes -- eg, the more prone riding position, while more fatiguing, is often somewhat better for peak power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bearing quality hardly figures in at all.  Even cheapo bearings have very low losses, and the difference in drag between them and top-of-the-line bearings is not likely to be measurable.  (The bigger difference is in durability.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike weight only comes into the equation when one must &quot;climb&quot; (and to a very minor degree for rolling resistance), but of course it's rare to have a route that does not go up/down by 0.5% or so most of the time.  That 0.5% increases the power required to hold a steady speed by about 10% over a dead-level course.  But the 3KG difference between the above two bikes would amount to about a 0.4% power difference on that 0.5% slope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T20:47:46.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9196" CreationDate="2013-10-22T00:18:11.073" Score="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an industrial chemist, and manufacture commercial-grade degreasers and other cleaners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, there are &lt;em&gt;3 main parts&lt;/em&gt; to a degreaser:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alkaline booster&lt;/strong&gt;, to increase the pH, allowing the dirt, grease and grime to be effectively removed, for faster cleaning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solvent&lt;/strong&gt;, to cut through tough grime and grease, as well as extract grime and grease from hard-to-get areas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Surfactant&lt;/strong&gt;, to hold grime and grease in the cleaning solution, preventing it from depositing back on the bikes surface once lifted off by the solvent and the alkaline solution&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(there are also other components in professional degreasers, such as water softeners, hydro-tropes, anionic and ionic surfactants, specific application solvents, etc...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main source of the above 3 parts can be from using baking soda as a alkaline booster, methylated spirit as a solvent (I would use methylated spirit because it is water-soluble), and a small amount of dish-washing liquid as a surfactant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example formulation &lt;em&gt;by volume&lt;/em&gt; would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50% Methylated Spirit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40% Water (H20)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5% Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5% Dish-washing Liquid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The methylated spirit and the sodium bicarbonate will work together to extract and lift the dirt/grime/grease, and the dish-washing liquid will work as a surfactant to stop it from depositing back on the bike again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dish washing liquid will also act as a wetting agent and a foam booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT ----&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please also note, that the methylated spirit will prevent (or nearly prevent) any foam or the like from forming. If you want foam, you will have to substitute the methylated spirits with a mild solvent that is hydrophilic and not oil-based (lipophilic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8452" LastEditorUserId="2152" LastEditDate="2017-08-24T15:15:41.080" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T15:15:41.080" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-22T06:15:07.030" Score="3" ViewCount="1062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with Campy components. I've found I need to replace the bottom bracket bearings annually, which is expensive and inconvenient. I do less than 2000km per year on it, largely through winter and spring. They are sealed bearings, but not cartridge style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this unusual? How long would you expect the bearings to last? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike shop says a lot of water and gunk get in the bottom bracket and just sits there, causing damage to the bearings. How does the gunk get in there? How would it get out? Should there be a drain hole somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To clarify, I only ride on the road and sealed trails. So I'm dealing with water and silty/sand from the road/tracks only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The symptom that indicates the bearings need replacing is noise. I get a clicking or ticking in the bottom bracket and take it to the shop. It seems to be a noisy bike... I've also had to replace the rear freehub bearings a few times and other causes of noise. So I'm not usually sure enough to replace the bearings, but I take it to the shop and ask them to figure out where it's coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T22:19:51.023" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T07:19:51.073" Title="How can I prolong the life of my bottom bracket bearings?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18163" CreationDate="2013-10-22T09:15:18.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, IMO &lt;strong&gt;Hicks&lt;/strong&gt; is right in the comments under the question. Now, had the problem been really that the BB is wearing out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have been out in the wet, on returning to base (home), remove the bicycle's seatpost and turn it upside town. You will be surprised how much water runs out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to try sealed cartage BB or &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3197/what-are-the-benefits-of-external-bottom-brackets?rq=1&quot;&gt;external bearing BB&lt;/a&gt;. By the way, ordinary (not cartage) bearing are extremely inexpensive: 0.5 euro at my area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T07:19:51.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18182" CreationDate="2013-10-22T10:22:04.170" Score="6" ViewCount="1135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have came to the conclusion that headlights work much better &lt;strong&gt;for me&lt;/strong&gt; for cycling than handlebar-mounted lights. This is because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A headlamp illuminates where one is looking, not where the bike is turning towards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The angle under which the light falls on the trail is much improved. When handlebar-mounted light illuminates the trail, the holes and irregularities look bottomless, making it difficult to select a safe line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I am considering buying a full-face helmet. Are there models, that are explicitly designed to have a light attached to them. I imagine some kind of rails on the side or in front or on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Bonus question 1: recommended way to mount a conventional headlamp (one which people put on their heads) to a conventional helmet (skateboard-type or full-face)?&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Bonus question 2: any lights, that are supposed to be mounted on the helmet, but their power supply to reside in the backpack?&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-09-01T12:55:37.483" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T12:55:37.483" Title="Helmets with dedicated mounting system for lights, cameras etc.?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18192" CreationDate="2013-10-22T11:27:47.797" Score="6" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been hearing for the past months about twenty nine inch wheels for bikes, and seeing such at the showroom windows and on the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also heard that they have a lot of advantages and a couple of drawbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is &lt;em&gt;why now?&lt;/em&gt; The diamond frame has been around for ages. I suspect the disc brakes and, later, the hydraulic disc brakes were not introduced right away due to technological limitations. But the &lt;em&gt;size&lt;/em&gt; of a wheel is certainly not constrained by technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why is this new fashion emerging exactly now? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-10-22T13:44:45.777" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T20:55:17.670" Title="Why have 29-ers arisen only recently?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;29er&gt;&lt;history&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2013-10-27T05:42:02.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18165" CreationDate="2013-10-22T11:33:38.437" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only helmets with built-in light mounts I know of are by Bell, which can mount the Blackburn Flea. I don't know if any of them are full-face. The Flea is pretty useless for offroad riding, it's too dim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lights usually mount up with velcro straps through the vents. When I was racing my MTB after dark &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ayup-lights.com/&quot;&gt;Ay-Ups&lt;/a&gt; were common - small, extremely bright, and a remote battery pack that can be put somewhere comfortable. Not cheap though. Most lights with separate battery packs should be able to mount to a helmet. Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/lights/front/?searchTerm=&amp;amp;productBrand=&amp;amp;sortBy=rating&amp;amp;dateFromYear=2011&amp;amp;productPriceFrom=&amp;amp;productPriceTo=&amp;amp;submit=Search&quot;&gt;Bikeradar&lt;/a&gt; or something for options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T11:33:38.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-22T13:19:41.213" Score="6" ViewCount="31551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike, and I wonder if I can develop my abs if I take my bike to work everyday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8455" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T13:20:45.637" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T19:11:23.417" Title="How can I develop my abs while I ride my bicycle?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18168" CreationDate="2013-10-22T13:33:57.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since cycling doesn't put your abs through a large range of motion, you're not likely to develop your abs by only biking to work. However, depending on how in shape you are, you will probably notice that your overall fitness level increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T13:33:57.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18168" CreationDate="2013-10-22T14:24:20.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always opt for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rowingbike.com/site/EN/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rowing bike&lt;/a&gt;. That would probably work your abs more than a regular bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T14:24:20.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18176" CreationDate="2013-10-22T14:33:26.100" Score="4" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;My chain looks as though it's 'stretched' - by the time it's fed around the large front chainring it appears to be 'longer' than when on the other chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I'm trying to work out whether the chain/links have stretched, or whether the teeth on the chainrings have worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could I tell which I need to address?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8456" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-10-22T20:51:21.903" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T20:51:21.903" Title="How do I tell if a loose chain is because of the chain or the ring wearing?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18174" CreationDate="2013-10-22T15:39:35.470" Score="-3" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a contour camera while a bike.&#xA;Recently all contour videos stopped working, and now their site seems very flakey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asking this here because Help/Support is broken there. (close if really off-topic)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T15:43:22.967" Title="is contour going out of business?" Tags="&lt;camera&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-10-27T05:41:31.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18173" CreationDate="2013-10-22T15:43:22.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, they're done, but perhaps not out as another company may pick up the brand/product. Check out the article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geekwire.com/2013/contour-closes-seattle-hq-surprises-employees-execs-mum-status-gopro-rival/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GeekWire&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T15:43:22.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18211" CreationDate="2013-10-22T15:56:55.113" Score="1" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently noticed that my front hub is bent, or at least the parts that connect to the fork (any name for this?). It's not a huge bent, but it's clearly visible with your eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It fits the fork without any problem, but I'm wondering if I should keep these, or if that may damage my fork somehow (as a fork is probably more expensive than hubs...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the highlighted part in the picture? That's the bent part. It seems to be bent through the whole length of the hub, not only the external part. Actually, when I rotate the wheel, I can see this part moving from side to side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANW7E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Illustration of the damaged part&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastEditorUserId="8322" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T09:01:33.183" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T00:21:39.590" Title="Can a bent hub damage my fork?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18172" CreationDate="2013-10-22T16:00:51.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure the chain. You can use a chain gauge, or just a metal ruler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon describes it in detail&lt;/a&gt;, but assuming you have a ruler with inches (and fractions of an inch), you can just measure 12 pins' worth of the chain (under tension). If it it's 1/16th past the inch mark, he recommends changing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That linked page also has some information on checking for a worn sprocket: if the chain is new (or you measured and it hasn't stretched), and the sprocket is worn, the chain rollers won't sit evenly between the teeth when under tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can see light between the sprocket and chain, it's probably time to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T16:00:51.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-22T18:44:11.730" Score="-2" ViewCount="824" Body="&lt;p&gt;We got a $485.00 ticket for not walking our bikes across the street. Can i fight this? $485.00 is a bit much!!??? This ticket was given in Glendale Ca. Has this ever happened to anyone? did you fight this ticket and win?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-we as in myself and a friend, each received a $485.00. it was a 4 way cross walk. All Cars are stopped 4 ways. So we continued to the other side. Cop pulled us over for riding across the street and not walking the bikes across the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8459" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-24T11:49:02.683" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T11:49:02.683" Title="Does this sound right: $485 ticket for not walking my bike across the street?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;california&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ClosedDate="2013-10-22T21:24:38.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18168" CreationDate="2013-10-22T18:50:31.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling up hill will do this. Although it's not too intense a work out. Ride standing up and you'll use the required muscle group for balance (as a person standing is harder to balance than one sitting, and thus uses more muscles). Since you're sitting symmetrically this will also give you an 'even' work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So just modify your route to take in a couple of small hills. Fartlek is best (basically - alternating intensity during exercise to stress your body), so flat then hill then flat then hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T18:50:31.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18177" CreationDate="2013-10-22T18:59:21.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'll get reliable legal advice on the internet.  That said, here are a few observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fine is clearly totally unreasonable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glendale seems to have some totally unreasonable laws regarding bicycles on the book: apparently you have to pay 50 cents a year to register your bicycle.  I have no idea if this is enforced.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ci.glendale.ca.us/gmc/10.60.aspx#10.60.040&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ci.glendale.ca.us/gmc/10.60.aspx#10.60.040&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The police officer who issued the ticket may or may not have an accurate understanding of the law as it relates to bicycles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should probably decide now how far you're willing to take this.  E.g. just pay the fine and move on, whether you're willing to make calls and attempt to get it dropped, whether you're willing to go to court, and whether you're willing to spend money on a lawyer.  Personally, I'd be willing to fight a little bit since the fine is steep and unfair, but the cost of hiring a lawyer probably isn't worth it for me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T18:59:21.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="222" CreationDate="2013-10-22T20:22:18.263" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://saveyourself.ca/tutorials/iliotibial-band-syndrome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;most comprehensive article I ever read&lt;/a&gt;. Yeah, you have to pay for it and it doesn't have a silver bullet, but it's for sure bring some light on this topic. Since I've tried everything except of surgery, I am still experimenting of different treatments. Last year it just disappeared after 4 months, I tried to stop riding for several month, then I got tired of not riding and went back to it and after several weeks pain disappeared. Now it came back...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in particular, I've tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;icing (several times a day)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;foam roling  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stretching  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stopping riding  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reducing intensity of the rides  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reducing time of rides  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;iboprofen  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;physical therapy  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hips exercises  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;core exercises  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;microcurrent therapy  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;contrasting (ice + heat)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;self massage  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seeing massage therapist  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;taping  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;eating a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drweil.com/drw/u/ART02995/Dr-Weil-Anti-Inflammatory-Food-Pyramid.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;anti-inflammatory food&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It disappeared magically, so can't say what worked if anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastEditorUserId="422" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T21:51:50.607" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T21:51:50.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18165" CreationDate="2013-10-22T21:50:50.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much all bike-related lights for helmets are mounted with velcro straps. My mate was riding in full-face helmet with lights on helmet. He had vents on top of the helmet and mounted the lights through the vents. Worked just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lightandmotion.com/bike/performance.html&quot;&gt;Light and Motion&lt;/a&gt; for &quot;battery in the pack, light on the head&quot; set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are planning a DH in the dark, I highly recommend have 2 lights - one on your helmet to shine where you are looking at. And another on your handlebars - to put light just in front of the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can never have too much light for DH, and even with all the lights you can get, it does not give you the same confidence as with day-light. So take care when you are trying to do that drop you usually nail daytime. In the dark it'll be a whole new territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T21:50:50.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18165" CreationDate="2013-10-23T05:29:43.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Velcro mounting, some lights attach with rubber, such as the two Night Rider lights I use (one is removed to show the attachment):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UyKCP.png&quot; alt=&quot;Night Rider lights, 1 fitted to helmet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery pack goes in my road shirt back pocket, using an extension lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used helmet mounted lights since I started building my own 20+ years ago (had these ones for a couple of years). As said in the question, they illuminate where you look. But in addition, I found that car drivers &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; knew I was there once I had looked at them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the best helmet for lights et al was my old Bell with it's flat front-to-back ribs.&#xA;The main issue is getting them to point where you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS Always use a light on the handlebar as backup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T05:29:43.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18189" CreationDate="2013-10-23T07:19:27.037" Score="4" ViewCount="1311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where is the ideal / designed location for my sit bones to push on a leather sling/hammock style saddle?  (Relative positioning, that works for any saddle width)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'm riding on my leather saddle, I notice that my sit bones seem to press the saddle very close to the rear metal part of the saddle (i.e. near the rivets).  This metal bar with the rivets is U-shaped, with the tails curving forwards at each side.  Are my sit bones supposed to fit within the curve?  In front of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referring to the grid below, my intuition is that I should get a wider saddle with a wider metal U such that my sit bones are in the relative locations of: center-of (C-D,2-3) and center-of (C-D,4-5).  Am I correct that the U should &quot;cradle&quot; my sit bones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, I notice most leather saddles use 6 rivets in the rear, so we can refer to them as rivet #1 through #6.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W2yle.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T14:44:19.630" Title="Where should my sit bones rest on a leather hammock/sling saddle?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-23T09:55:27.043" Score="1" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am replacing a broken Shimano RD-2200, and trying to find the right part.  How do I determine compatability?  The largest sprocket is 26 tooth, and the cassette is 8 speed.  Will anything by Shimano for an 8 speed work?  Or do I need to get more specific?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8463" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T15:53:27.793" Title="Rear Derailleur compatability?" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18185" CreationDate="2013-10-23T10:14:32.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything from Shimano with 8 speeds should work. The problems can only start when your cassete's biggest sprocket is too big (you are well under limit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T10:14:32.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18196" CreationDate="2013-10-23T12:22:51.733" Score="4" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to triathlon and want to ask about what are bikes that consider a good choice for triathlon beginners? for both training and locale or small competitions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some parameters to put in mind while recommending bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Price range: As a beginner, I may give up early if I find out that this sport is not suitable for me, and spending $10k on a bike at this stage is not the best decision for sure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durability: beginners usually do mistakes, and may broke their bikes. A durable bike is highly recommended for this stage, right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of use: I mean by use; easy to be assembled, disassembled and any common or periodical fixes that need to be done to the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions to put in consideration, please add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8465" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T12:25:56.487" Title="triathlon beginners guide" Tags="&lt;beginner&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-10-27T05:41:47.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18184" CreationDate="2013-10-23T14:44:19.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct about the position of sit bones between C-D 2-5. &#xA;If the leather on the saddle has stretched, even if you rest your sit bones in the C-D 2-5 region, your sit-bones might be digging into the metal part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure your sit-bones distance, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9815/is-it-possible-to-measure-your-sit-bones-at-home&quot;&gt;reference to another SE question &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your sit bones are narrower than widest part of the metal bracket (about C,D 1-6) then tightening the saddle bolt will help a great deal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your sit-bones are wider than C 1-6, then tightening the saddle may not help much, you may have to consider getting a wider saddle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T14:44:19.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18168" CreationDate="2013-10-23T14:54:36.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out cycling is an inefficient way to exercise the muscles in your core.  Cycling will utilize those muscles and your cycling performance will likely benefit from strengthening them - but cycling specifically won't really build strength in those muscles, you have to work them off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/core&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article from Bicycling&lt;/a&gt; covers the topic pretty nicely and has links to some great core workouts for cyclists.  Personally, I've used the exercises described on here and they're pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T14:54:36.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18100" CreationDate="2013-10-23T18:01:13.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was searching for bikes and I found one identical to this one: it was a VINTAGE 1959 MURRAY SEARS FLIGHTLINER, all it was missing is the little silver bar that goes above the front fender that clips into that little silver clip on the bottom of the headtube. Some may have had headlight tanks, the one I found  didn't. So it could be a 59-60?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8412" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T18:01:13.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18166" CreationDate="2013-10-23T19:41:08.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although 29ers have been around since the early 80's they have only been in production from a major producer for the last decade. Trek was the first big brand to offer a 29er in early 2000's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons why you may not of seen many are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Until the last couple of model years model years 29er's have predominatly been in the XC category (HT and FS)  while recently more all mountain and trail bikes have been developed. Depending on what riders were doing in your area there may not have been a market.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There has been an increase in world cup/ champs and olympic riders using 29ers in the past few years. At the 2012 Olympics there were very few 26&quot; bikes in the mens (more in the womans due to size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;People don't change their bike that often. If you live in an area where there is not a lot of riders the market for a new wheel size retailers will stick to what they know.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Entry level bikes have predominantly been 26&quot;. Big box store retailers (of which makes up a large portion of the market) will follow the trend for what they see selling the most of. Now there is a critical mass of 29ers they will follow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most people don't read media about bikes they are driven by what a salesman says, which will generally be in the direction of the most sales and biggest margin.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do find it interesting that you are commenting that you see a lot of 29ers retailling where you live, in New Zealand apart from XC bikes a huge proportion of the 2014 model years bikes that I am seeing at the moment are 650Bs. I think our market replicates that of the US where companies are moving to this as the new &quot;standard&quot;. A good example is Giant who have committed to phasing out both 29 and 26&quot; models on a 3 year glide path. Other manufacturers are offering strong 650B models in intemediate and advanced AM categories this year such as GT, Trek, Merida and Santa Cruz just to name a few. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T20:55:17.670" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T20:55:17.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16967" CreationDate="2013-10-23T21:06:19.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had my aerobars (profile designs t1+) on my mtb for about 2 years.  The GDMBR was my inspiration for doing so and they have allowed me to ride over 100 miles.  It is so much more comfortable than only gripping the handlebars.  Of that 100 miles I probably rode only 15 miles sitting up holding onto the grips--the rest of the time: aerobars.  I like the t1+ because it allows me to adjust the armrests closer to my body and further behind the handlebars.  This way I am not leaning over as far---just a comfort thing for me.  My advice: really do some homework on different aerobars and see what features they offer because they are not all the same.  SOme allow you to position the armrests further apart, some allow you do adjust them closer or further from your body, etc.  really access what your needs are and make your purchase accordingly.  Gud Luk&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing: don't get tt bars unless you want your wrists to be so sore you wont be able to pick your nose due to the excessive bend and strain put on them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8469" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T21:06:19.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-23T23:31:59.067" Score="1" ViewCount="3506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a 7 speed bicycle, and recently changed my rear derailleur to a Shimano RD TX55 Tourney TX for a 6/7 speed compatibility. My shifter is Shimano Rapidfire for 7-speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current problem that I have is that when I shift into the 6th, 5th, 4th, 3rd, and the 1st sprocket it becomes unstable. The RD is not properly aligned with the gears. The 7th sprocket does not have any problems. The 2nd sprocket on the other hand, I have to shift the shifter from 2 then change it to 3 only then it becomes stable in the 2nd sprocket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon observation, I suspect that the RD is more towards for a 6-speed sprocket due to their alignment on the sprockets.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true or is there some way to adjust the RD to fit the 7-speed sprocket? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information:&#xA;1. The cable is tight, not slacking. &#xA;2. Barrel adjuster is 0, at its initial position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7929" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T06:10:38.700" Title="Shimano RD TX55 Tourney TX 6/7 Speed Compatibility" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;7-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15940" CreationDate="2013-10-24T00:32:59.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That bike is a Swabian brand from Konrad Kotter (who had until 1982 and again in 1987 the professional racing team Kotter's Racing Team) that later went over to Albuch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Albuch Kotter logo now looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uiQ3K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Albuch Kotter Head tube logo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8452" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2013-10-27T06:02:46.337" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T06:02:46.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18187" CreationDate="2013-10-24T00:33:26.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Budget advice&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Visit/Join a Tri Club and check out what second-hand bikes the members are selling. Aim for the low end, say less than $1000. Make sure you ride a few different bikes so that you can compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It needs to be comfortable and fit well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It must have quick-release wheels. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, work out what shoes and pedals you are comfortable using: will you use &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/240/why-the-heck-are-cleated-shoes-called-clipless/242#242&quot;&gt;toe clips or clipless&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Serious Advice&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Find a local Tri shop or LBS and talk it over with them. Be firm about your budget, and that it includes clothes, shoes, and pedals. A good shop will let you ride the bike before you buy, provide some free service and fit the bike to you. Shop around as well. Be up front with the staff: tell them that you are starting and are checking out your options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T12:25:56.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18194" CreationDate="2013-10-24T03:54:46.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit: First question, why did you replace the derailleur? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear derailleurs don't really care about # of speeds - its the shifters which change the cable pull to move them around (so mixing shimano and sram can cause problems due to different amounts of cable pull). By RD not aligned with gears, do you mean the hanger / cage are bent? If so, go to your LBS and get them to unbend it / replace the hanger. If the rear derailleur is in good condition, you just need to adjust the cable (assuming its in good condition) to be taut when in the smallest cog (I lightly use pliers for this - make sure that the cable is actually being held in place) and then use the adjustment screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you adjusted your high low limit stops and indexing adjustment and btension?&#xA;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt; for an overview (or one of the various youtube videos on doing this)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see the thread here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16857/what-are-the-most-common-causes-for-hysteresis-in-the-rear-derailler/16867#16867&quot;&gt;What are the most common causes for hysteresis in the rear derailler?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T04:02:30.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7199" CreationDate="2013-10-24T08:03:55.373" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think because 23mm tires typically have higher pressures and a larger contact area with the pavement, reaching high speed is easy but maintaining speed is hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8472" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-10-25T05:17:20.250" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T05:17:20.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18200" CreationDate="2013-10-24T10:57:19.200" Score="17" ViewCount="76445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have wonderful new manuals everywhere, of brakes, wheels...&#xA;In these manuals I see &quot;tighten up to 5Nm&quot;, &quot;tighten up to 40Nm&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There must probably be tools with such measurements on them, but I don't have any.&#xA;Is there a way, an equivalent I can use to know the approximate torque I'm putting on my tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-10-24T11:07:03.223" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T02:26:38.023" Title="Tightening torque: 5Nm, 40Nm... how do I tell?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;&lt;adjustment-screw&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18199" CreationDate="2013-10-24T11:37:41.883" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do this with a tool called torque (sometimes called dynamometric) wrench.&#xA;Without a tool you can estimate it this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make yourself familiar with a weight of 1 kg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply the force with your simple wrench 10 cm from the bolt in question&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you 1 Nm of force. To get 5 Nm, use 5 kgs of weight or increase length to 50 cm. The math is simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;τ = r * F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where τ is torque, r is radius and F is force (1kg has 10 Newtons of force)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike is expensive racing machine, this tool is a must. By applying too much force you risk making cracks in lightweight materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2017-02-08T14:04:20.503" LastActivityDate="2017-02-08T14:04:20.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18168" CreationDate="2013-10-24T11:42:17.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What most people mean by developing their abs is that they want their abdominal muscles to show through their skin, commonly referred to as a six pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you probably wont engage your abdominals in cycling very much, cycling as an endurance activity will increase your caloric needs and make it easier for you to reduce the amount of body fat covering your abs. The common misconception that you will lose fat in the trained area &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exrx.net/WeightTraining/Myths.html#anchor7319578&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;is a myth&lt;/a&gt;. Of course you still need at least some abdominal muscle mass for it to show, but losing the fat that covers them is harder than training the core. And while I think that cycling is a good idea to get rid of some fat, a healthy diet can have an even bigger effect on your overall body fat percentage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding to that there is a debate in the fitness community if specific training (aka isolation exercises) for the abs - such as crunches - is a good idea at all. The current trend prefers exercises that engage the whole core, reducing the negative effects of muscle imbalances.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For example: My main exercise for the abdominal area currently are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exrx.net/WeightExercises/LatissimusDorsi/BWChinup.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chin-ups&lt;/a&gt; and pull-ups. While the movement doesn't seems to have a lot of core-engagement in the first place, I am not the only one who is convinced that they are a good core exercise. On T-Nation is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.t-nation.com/testosterone-magazine-627&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article comparing different ab exercises&lt;/a&gt;, chin-ups were one of the top exercises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the most shocking result of this entire experiment was the level of rectus abdominis activity elicited by a bodyweight chin-up! It beat out any other abdominal exercise, weighted exercises and all, in mean and peak rectus abdominis activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[…] If you're aiming to get a great core workout via chin ups, I recommend performing slow, controlled repetitions while focusing on keeping the hips and spine perfectly neutral throughout the set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4891" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T11:42:17.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18216" CreationDate="2013-10-24T13:28:52.233" Score="1" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have kevlar vittorio rubbino tyres on my road bike, but they don't have enough grip for the oncoming uk winter conditions. What level of tyre tread do I need for road commuting on uk winter roads and any recommendations welcome. I would still like to maintain a low weight and good rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-10-26T21:02:06.417" Title="What kind of road tyres should I go for winter commuting?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2013-10-26T21:59:01.407" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18202" CreationDate="2013-10-24T13:35:16.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, road tires are inherently &quot;unsafe&quot; to use in winter. As soon as there's ice, the tread doesn't help much. In snow however, narrow tires will &quot;cut through&quot; to the asphalt anyway and have the same grip as in summer, provided there's no ice underneath the snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest tires with a puncture-proof layer because of grit and salt in the roads, especially once the snow melts. I've made good experience with Continental's GP4000 tires in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T13:35:16.400" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18210" CreationDate="2013-10-24T14:45:59.330" Score="6" ViewCount="4435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have my mountain bike disassembled, I broke a tire and needed some space in my room. The frame is resting upside down on the saddle and handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork itself is a Rock Shox SID Dual Air (pretty old model, I guess 2001). As this fork relies - to my best knowledge - only on air, storing it upside down shouldn't be a problem. Am I correct, what about other types of suspension forks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4891" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T11:08:44.120" Title="Can I leave a suspension fork upside down?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16376" CreationDate="2013-10-24T15:00:32.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main benefits of nickel plating for bike chains are hardness, corrosion resistance and wear resistance.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://electroless-nickel-plating-specialist.co.uk/index.php/2013/04/7-great-reasons-to-choose-electroless-nickel-plating/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; explains more about each benefit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a bit more information about nickel coatings &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.electroless-nickel-plating.co.uk/products-and-services/electroless-nickel-plating-company-corrosion-resistance-marine-coating.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on this website&lt;/a&gt; too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8478" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T15:00:32.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-24T15:13:35.370" Score="9" ViewCount="5976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike with 50/34 compact crankset and 12/27 10sp cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I don't think I could run a 53/39 one given the hills I happen to climb, but sometimes I get the feeling the right gears are precisely close to the cross chaining limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the feeling when riding on the 34 that it is always too easy unless I ride on the 12/13/14t cogs, or when on the 50, that it is too hard unless I get on the 21t cog...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, when on the flat, I feel better on the 50 as I could get faster spots when smaller cogs will definitely be better, but when riding at ~25kph, it just feels like I am all the time &quot;in between&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, given that the crankset only has two rings, is the cross-chaining less of an issue than on a triple?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-10-24T20:16:50.463" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T22:37:38.573" Title="Compact crankset, how to use and criticality of cross chaining" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;compact-crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18206" CreationDate="2013-10-24T19:03:42.383" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I SO know what you mean. Whenever I ride my winter bike, that has 50/34, I'm forever swapping cogs and rings. My tips? Try a triple. My personal views on a triple can be read elsewhere &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastEditorUserId="7483" LastEditDate="2013-10-24T22:06:22.687" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T22:06:22.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18204" CreationDate="2013-10-24T23:00:32.153" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not damage a suspension fork by hanging it upside down. Although the fork is air sprung it also uses oil for dampening in one of the legs. Oil may leak if your seals are degraded. The seals in suspension forks are made to ensure they don't react with the suspension oil. The oil will actually help lubricate the seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same for coil (spring based) forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you refit your fork it will take time to settle back to its original state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T23:00:32.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18209" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-24T23:37:07.483" Score="3" ViewCount="3419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once lubed inside a Grip Shifter with Finish Line teflon lube, and used that for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I disassembled everything, and the outer rubber part is quite stained and sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to brush the teflon aside with water and soap, and even a mild degreaser, but since teflon is not exactely grease, I just spread the stains even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, question is: Which substance / method should I use to clean that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T16:07:45.040" Title="How to clean rubber and plastic parts with sticky, thick teflon-based lube stains?" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18204" CreationDate="2013-10-25T00:17:46.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bike shops hang a substantial portion of their inventory and repairs upside down to save space. I'm not aware of a fork that cannot be stored upside down. As pointed out by DWGKNZ, forks with degraded seals and wipers may be more prone to leaking since the oil is up against them and gravity + capillary action are at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some forks with fancy valving may take a little while to get back to normal, for instance some of the Specialized Brain shocks take a while for the platform to behave properly again after being stored inverted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T00:17:46.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18175" CreationDate="2013-10-25T00:21:39.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part you've circled is called the axle, even if it is not solid, and if it's bent you need to replace the axle, or the hub, or the whole wheel, whatever is cheapest. It can likely cause minor damage to your fork, but more importantly, if it's bent then it can fail- potentially in a catastrophic manner. Get it fixed, cheap insurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T00:21:39.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18104" CreationDate="2013-10-25T03:25:29.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tune-up fundamental SHOULD be the proper alignment of the rear derailleur hanger. If the shop doesn't use a Park Tool DAG-1 [derailleur hanger alignment gauge], or some other manufacturer's, to inspect, verify, and correct the relation of the hanger to 3 different points on rim of rear wheel at 180 and 45 degrees apart it is throwing parts at a bike. As the hanger should hold the rear derailleur in direct line with each cassette chain ring, any deviation -- inward or away from the cassette -- induces erratic shifting and skipping that mimics cassette and chain wear.  (Misalignment is difficult to &quot;see&quot; without this tool but may be suspected if the bike has been bumped in a rack, dropped, or fallen, on the drive side.)  The tool at $65 to $75 will be used for diagnosis by a careful shop but is unlikely to be worthwhile for an occasional home wrench.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8411" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T03:25:29.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15973" CreationDate="2013-10-25T04:08:00.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not indicate if this is the SX (&quot;tadpole model&quot; weighing 48 lbs) or the USX HD (weighing 65 lbs.)  (Either curb weight is a challenge but if you've been spinning away at 80 or better rpm, I say &quot;reward yourself with a lighter trike.&quot; Review the archives at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rtrmag.com&quot;&gt;http://www.rtrmag.com&lt;/a&gt;   - Recumbent and Tandem Rider Magazine or The Recumbent Journal for alternative rides.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, ask your LBS for an install of a 28 or 26 tooth chain 5-bolt chain ring that could provide 5% lower gear to pull hills. The Microshift FD will accommodate a granny gear change down to 26t ring but will not shift nicely with a 24 t. IF this EZ-3 is the USX HD, do not expect much improvement or success on inclines as the drive applies only to the right rear wheel and you'll be frustrated by its &quot;crabbing to the right&quot; while you're spinning frantically and working to redirect the steering.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8411" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T04:08:00.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18204" CreationDate="2013-10-25T11:08:44.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rock Shox Dual Airs do actually have a small amount of oil in them. You have to keep the fork upside down for a minute or so before adding air to the lower leg. If you don't do this, some oil will spray out of the valve and make a mess when you attach the pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4802" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T11:08:44.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18209" CreationDate="2013-10-25T13:16:49.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend an all-purpose cleaner like GooGone or Oops, but try it on a small spot first as it may remove the finish on whatever you're cleaning. Other than that, you can use a more abrasive cleaning utensil (pad, brush, towel, etc.) to scrape the congealed teflon off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T13:16:49.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18202" CreationDate="2013-10-25T16:56:05.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Swalbe Marathon's last year without too many problems. As has been previously said, the narrow (25mm) tyres do help cut through snow, but when you are on ice nothing is very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I liked Continental Top Tourers previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T16:56:05.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18029" CreationDate="2013-10-27T14:25:38.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Burning plastic could make a big mess. Use precision screws rather than plastic ones. You will have to drill eventually. If you want to go fancy use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbaertschi.com/precision-screws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;precision screws&lt;/a&gt; made out of titanium parts. They wont break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8489" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T14:25:38.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16340" CreationDate="2013-10-27T17:23:29.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I've been using 180 Magura Storm with Shimanno 775 hydraulic brake with sintered pad. All I can say is, the brake is a monster, it modulates well and can easily lock the front wheel with 2 fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About quality, before these Maguras, I had the &quot;cheap&quot; nasty rotor, it used to overheat after 10 seconds holding hard on descends. I knew it because I could feel a lever loss of pressure and after about 15 seconds without braking, the brake came back to normal. After replacing to 180 Magura, I can brake descends nice. I weight 210 lbs, and do touring with my bike, so, final weight is about 250 lbs. The secret basically is not the &quot;disc&quot;, it's the disc + pads + caliper. A cheap caliper with expensive discs brakes ok, so expensive calipers with cheap disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8491" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-10-27T21:26:41.263" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T21:26:41.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-28T02:30:25.467" Score="1" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at building a Cart/cargo for attaching to the back of my bike.&#xA;Are you guys aware of any DIY kits or manufacturers that can  build it to my specifications. &#xA;I did look at some on the market, but they all seemed to be limited and are of less dimensions. I was looking for building something about 1.5*1*1(Length width and height).&#xA;Thanks for any suggestions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8492" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T03:09:11.707" Title="A Cart for a Bicycle" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18206" CreationDate="2013-10-28T02:40:48.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Analyzing your figures, assuming your wheel circumference is 2110mm ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At 25kph, riding the 34X14 gears, your cadence is about 81.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you switch to the 50X21, your cadence is about 83.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you then push your cadence up, at a cadence of 100 on the 50X21 you are doing 30 kph.&#xA;You can then drop to the 50X19 for a cadence of 90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this all looks pretty normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are not complaining about hills, I say your gears are about right for you. You are complaining of feeling &quot;in between&quot; on the flat, so I have one and a half suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Practice riding with a higher cadence. It always feels weird at first, but you'll get used to it. If you start &quot;bobbing&quot;, then concentrate on pedaling smoothly (ankling). Think of riding at a higher cadence like running a car at higher RPM. The higher the RPM the higher the power. And think how many steps per minute you would take if you were running. Not everybody would agree with me, but I say that 90 should be your &lt;em&gt;slowest&lt;/em&gt; cadence (when you should change to a lower gear), with 100 as your average. For practice, try this game. Ride with a friend, starting at, say 20 kph on the 34X17 gear. Now &lt;em&gt;in the same gear&lt;/em&gt; find out how fast you can go. You will be surprised. Then try the next higher gear, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could test some 53/39 front rings. But you would lose more at the bottom end than you would gain at the top end: the gearing range is lower, with more overlap. To make it work, you still need to teach your legs to ride at a higher cadence :-)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter if I got your wheel size wrong? Not much. Does it take long to learn to ride at 90+ all the time? It can take a month or two. You have to train your legs to do it, and part of that is your circulatory system has to change. Both need time. What is the benefit? There are three benefits: you will overcome that &quot;in between&quot; feeling, plus greater efficiency and power. Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS You'll notice I didn't mention cross-chaining. That's because I don't think it's an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PPS After posting, I realized I left out an option: to change the cassette to one with smaller gaps in the cog sizes, something like 12-25 or a custom built job. That won't work for you if you need that 27 cog for the hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T11:22:10.880" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T11:22:10.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18222" CreationDate="2013-10-28T03:09:11.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wicycle.com/cargo_diy_kit_bicycle_trailer.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Wicycle kit&lt;/a&gt; may fit your needs. You buy the dimensional material (metal bars in this case) to whatever size you need locally, and the specialized cargo hardware is included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8483" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T03:09:11.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12701" CreationDate="2013-10-28T04:04:02.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a year later, but you haven't yet accepted an answer, so this is how I would approach it. Keep in mind that I love bicycling on the road and think bicycling on the Interstate system is a fun and exciting pastime...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking at your map and spending a little quality time with Street View, my first choice would be the obvious highway route, at least in part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eastbound: Avenida Manuel Ordoñez to Díaz Ordaz (Hwy 54).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Westbound: Carry your bike over the pedestrian bridge and take Díaz Ordaz to Avenida Manuel Ordoñez.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highway here appears to have good pavement (sidewalk) on both sides for all or nearly all of the relevant length, so you really shouldn't be too exposed to traffic. My only big concern about it is the lack of lane markings, though that's not a big concern. I'd probably use the road, as I see parked cars on the sidewalk at some points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going westbound, there are two left lanes onto Av Manuel Ordoñez, take the rightmost of the two and wait for the light to change like everyone else. After you cross the light, though, try to sprint for a few hundred meters, until the point where your lanes shift back over to the right; this section has no shoulders or pavement and so you will probably find yourself a bit squeezed here. As long as you're moving, it shouldn't really be a big problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also think you should try this on a non-work day, when traffic is lighter, at least for practice, so that you can become more accustomed to riding with traffic. Perhaps several such rides before you do it for real on a Monday morning when traffic will be a bit heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6757" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T04:04:02.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18231" CreationDate="2013-10-28T08:47:48.617" Score="8" ViewCount="3903" Body="&lt;p&gt;When installing new cables and housing, is is wise to oil the housing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, how? &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/13714/3927&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Hicks&lt;/strong&gt; recommends spraying (but for re-newing  old cables). On the other hand, I have found it intuitive to put a drop of oil onto the entrance of the housing, then thread the cable through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rationale is that oil reduces friction, and cables and housings enjoy lack of friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So does oiling new housing help, or is it reserved for servicing old housing systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T04:52:02.467" Title="Should I oil new cable housings?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18229" CreationDate="2013-10-28T08:54:30.340" Score="5" ViewCount="2298" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider this illustrative picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q7bZ4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cable routing&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cables are routed &amp;quot;across&amp;quot; the heatube. &lt;em&gt;Id est&lt;/em&gt; the cable leaves the shifter, crosses the headtube and then curves back under the top or bootom tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often see bikes set up like that, but not always. Sometimes, the cable leaves the shifter, makes a large curve in front and then returns under the top or bottom tube, without crossing the headtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a right or wrong way? I have observed loss of paint and even &lt;strong&gt;frame damage&lt;/strong&gt; from cables, rubbing against the head tube (on a Specialized hardrock).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T19:33:29.127" Title="How to route cables aroung the head tube?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18228" CreationDate="2013-10-28T09:14:05.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My assumption is that the best route would be the one which involves the least bending of the cable, so in most cases it seems like it should cross the head tube. It may depend on where the cables need to go at the back of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you do it, most bikes have at least one cable which rubs on the head tube a bit. To prevent damage you can either avoid turning the handlebars (!), or put some helicopter tape or small plastic/teflon disc where it touches. Some new bikes come with similar things already installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are available in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/lizard-skins-carbon-leather-frame-patches/rp-prod7460?_%24ja=tsid:46412%7Ccgn%3aLizard%20Skins%20-%20Frame%20Protection%7Ccn%3aChain%20Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-DT-SE%7Ckw:22785UK_Lizard%20Skins%20Carbon%20Leather%20Frame%20Patches&amp;amp;gclid=CK2WpIHvuboCFXCWtAodoDYAmA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;leather&lt;/a&gt; or &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lizard-skins-clear-patches/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;clear&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. Maybe not teflon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T16:29:37.637" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T16:29:37.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-28T10:19:19.260" Score="11" ViewCount="17967" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've seen, the last couple of years saw a new product type come into light, and since its inception it has started to appear on bikes (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/au/en/bikes/mountain/technical_trail/remedy/remedy_9_27&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/au/en-au/bikes/mountain/enduro/sworks-enduro-29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en/nomad&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) as a stock item. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm talking about the &quot;drop seatpost&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the un-initiated, these are seatposts that are adjustable &quot;on-the-fly&quot;, either by remote or a lever under the sadle. The idea is to allow the rider to find an optimal seat height to suit the conditions. This seems like a great idea, but what suffers as a result? I believe there is an inevitable weight penalty that would burden the gram-conscious amongst us, but what else might sway a decision for or against the purchase of one of these items?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the potential problems will include weight, mechanical failure and cost, but what else might there be to the equation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I have gathered these nifty looking contraptions come in a plethora of variations, and notable brands have created their own versions. I've seen them made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridefox.com/product.php?m=bike&amp;amp;t=seatpost&amp;amp;p=1001&amp;amp;ref=topnav&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fox&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/reverb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rockshox&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankbrothers.com/seatposts.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crank Brothers&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/au/en-au/ftb/mtb-components/mtb-seat-posts/command-post-blacklite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://kssuspension.com/products/seatposts/lev-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KS&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gravitydropper.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gravity Dropper&lt;/a&gt;. Perhaps there are others as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in addition, what differentiates each of these models and brands? What are the pros and cons of each? Is there one that stands out as a clear winner in the field?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help or insight is warmly welcomed, so thank you in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastEditorUserId="7768" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T23:06:13.277" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T08:14:02.510" Title="Benefits and drawbacks of Dropper posts?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18227" CreationDate="2013-10-28T10:49:39.910" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest leaving new cable housings as they are. From my experience with riding MTB bikes in different conditions, lubing them only attracts more dust. I suggest regular cleaning and using oil only for short term reviving. These cables need to be replaced once in a while anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T10:49:39.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18230" CreationDate="2013-10-28T11:13:48.157" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are generally two types of dropper seatposts, &lt;strong&gt;mechanical&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. GravityDropper) and &lt;strong&gt;hydraulic&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. RockShox Reverb). Mechanical dropper seatposts use a spring to move the seatpost and a bolt to keep it in place. This is a very simple design and there are few things that can break or jam, and the weight is also kept very reasonable since there are few parts needed to make it work. The drawbacks are that you only have a fixed number of height settings, i.e. fully extended, halfway extended, and fully lowered. This is because the seatpost is being held in place by a pin that goes through a hole in the seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hydraulic seatpost on the other hand uses hydraulics to move the seatpost and thus allows you to place the seatpost at any height you like. The drawbacks are that they are more complicated, usually weigh more, costs a lot more and requires more maintenance. The advantages are the ability to lock the post at any height you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanical dropper posts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; + Mechanically simple and easy to maintain&#xA; + Low weight&#xA; + Cheap&#xA; - Only a fixed number of positions for height adjustment&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hydraulic dropper posts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+ Freely adjustable to any height&#xA;- Complicated&#xA;- Requires more maintenance&#xA;- Expensive&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Static QR seat posts:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+ Requires no maintenance&#xA;+ Cheap&#xA;+ Low weight&#xA;+ Can be adjusted to any height&#xA;- Rider must dismount to lower and raise seat&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T12:23:32.970" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T12:23:32.970" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-28T16:01:06.620" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;When setting up the power meter on an indoor Elite Digital Mag Trainer should I put in my weight plus the weight of my bike when I input the weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8496" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T10:37:02.510" Title="Proper Weight input for a indoor power meter" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-28T17:44:54.147" Score="2" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on attempting my first cyclocross race on the cheap and cant decide on what shoes. As it will be very muddy and rainy (like most British weather) I want to make sure I get the shoes with the right level of grip. Will these Shimano xc30 mtb be enough with a pair of studs in the front?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T19:45:13.993" Title="shimano xc30 mtb spd shoes for CycloCross?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-28T17:59:13.987" Score="9" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was designing a cart for personal use. I live in an area with elevations on the road, and I fear braking might be an issue for the cart I have behind my bike.&#xA;Can anyone suggest a good mechanism they might have experienced or seen for brakes on a cart attached on the back of a bicycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, How is there a Hitch which is flexible enough for absorbing the force during braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8499" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T19:28:57.187" LastActivityDate="2020-02-19T10:47:27.707" Title="Hitch for a cart for braking" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18235" CreationDate="2013-10-28T18:34:20.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could run a long mechanical disk/v/canti- brake to the rear wheel(s). It probably wouldn't be too hard to do since you can buy housing and cable by the length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for making a flexible hitch, I can think of a couple options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ball hitch: Just like a car/truck hitch where you've got a ball, this will give you a smooth range of motion, but might be kind of bulky when figuring out a way to attach it to the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dual cotter pin: Having a horizontal joint followed by a vertical joint will give you the two major axes of movement, and it'll be simple to work on, but less range of motion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T18:34:20.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18228" CreationDate="2013-10-28T18:44:53.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no right or wrong way but it is designed to ensure that shifters work efficiently with the derailleurs. The route of shifter cable is determined by the cable routing and stops on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the Hardrock as the example there are two cable routes and a brake line route under the top tube. The shifter cables sits to the right of the the brake line and the order from the right is FD-RD-RB. The FD cable needs to sit on the right to allow the correct angle to run down the back of the seat tube. As the front shifter is on the left side and rear on the right in order to correctly seat in the stops the cables must cross the headtube from the handlebars. The FD and RD cables also cross where the top tube and seat tube meet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By default the brake line is on the left, in many right hand of the road driving countries the rear brake will be on the right hand side and therefore you have no choice but to cross the head tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bike that has no crossing at the head tube apart from the front brake line which doesn't rub. The cable set up from the right is RD-RB-FD. This actually causes more cable rub on the headtube than one that crosses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't worry about cable rub, I own bikes to ride, not look good or retain resale value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T19:32:44.523" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T19:32:44.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18227" CreationDate="2013-10-28T19:05:52.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you shouldn't apply to additional lube to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; cables and housing. These come pre-coated (cables) and pre-greased (outers) so adding anything additional is not required and could possibly degrade the factory lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T19:05:52.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18234" CreationDate="2013-10-28T19:45:13.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you throw some studs on those XC 30s ( don't skip that step ) you'll have plenty of grip and all around performance. Unless you travel into some higher price ranges where the really aggressive tread patterns usually live, you'll be hard pressed to find too much of a difference between MTB shoes and cross shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you end up in love with racing cross, you'll start to get a good handle on which equipment works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T19:45:13.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18159" CreationDate="2013-10-28T20:01:57.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/HB/EV-HB-M475-2197B_v1_m56577569830647979.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Shimano TechDoc&lt;/a&gt;, the axle of HB-M475 (Front hub, 100mm OLD, 6-bolt disc mount) is M10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find a different model number marked on the hub, &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano techdocs are listed here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T20:01:57.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18235" CreationDate="2013-10-28T20:10:22.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://appropriatetechnology.wikispaces.com/Bicycle+Trailer+Hitch+Braking+System&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt; describes a prototype flexible hitch for pulling carts that includes an automatic braking system. It describes using a spring loaded rod inside an outer tube, with a segment of brake cable attached to the tube:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The simple brake cable design will make use of the force of the&#xA;  trailer moving towards the bike, which also moves the housing with the&#xA;  brake cable towards the bike. This force pushes the cable into the&#xA;  rod, which causes tension on the cable and engages the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G9Hcf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I believe it's ok under the &lt;a href=&quot;http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CC license&lt;/a&gt; to republish their diagram by attributing it to the authors of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://appropriatetechnology.wikispaces.com/Bicycle+Trailer+Hitch+Braking+System&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;original article&lt;/a&gt;, Matt Ramirez, Chris Carvalho, and David Hernandez)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T20:10:22.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18206" CreationDate="2013-10-29T00:01:31.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 53 x 39 won't really make things better for you as you'll be even more cross geared in your 53. That said, riding a 50 x 21 on your 12-27 cassette can't really be considered cross gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like less of a jump in ratios when shifting the front chain ring, might I suggest a cyclocross crankset? Shimano's cx50 and cx70 offer a 46x36 up front. They'll let you ride more in the middle of your cassette on the 46 and still give you a decent low ratio. You do lose a little top end but few people are exceeding 50kph for any length of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a cyclocross bike with a 46x36 and a 12x27 and find it fully useable for the speeds I pedal at and shifting the front doesn't result in 3 gear changes in the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to the Shimano cross cranksets: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/cyclocross/cx70.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/cyclocross/cx70.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T00:01:31.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14059" CreationDate="2013-10-29T01:21:49.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's worth noting that if the question is about &lt;em&gt;efficiency&lt;/em&gt; and not power, then there is probably little difference, but I find it a little dubious that so many of these references say it makes little difference whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the discussion is about power, I'm sure that a proper study were done on the usage of clipless pedals would show that the gains in power are rather substantial.  Additionally, a study that shows there is little benefit to a rider that's unlikely to pull on the pedal doesn't mean that there aren't significant gains for one that is.  I did my daily commute on platforms a couple times recently and I felt absolutely helpless at sprinting to make traffic lights, or even to get going from a stop.  I had no torque available when I needed it due to being limited to a single leg and using the quads alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pay very close attention to cadence and stroke while I'm riding, and the benefits in maintaining a steady cadence and using all muscle groups is quite noticeable, perhaps the existing studies are just asking the wrong questions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8504" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T01:21:49.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-29T06:30:59.217" Score="2" ViewCount="1407" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I find out what my mountain bike is? I bought this mountain bike frame from a friend about a year ago. He told me that it is a specialized frame but I can't find it anywhere on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/klrhb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here&amp;#39;s my bike&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pYuys.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8505" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-02-14T11:25:06.187" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T11:25:06.187" Title="Identify my bike" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18233" CreationDate="2013-10-29T10:25:38.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your weight is used for calculating your power to weight ratio (W/kg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight of bike/clothes/other gear is not taken into consideration. It is considered that these things weight about the same for every &quot;pro&quot; cyclist. So you should use your own weight because everybody else is doing that. This way you can compare your results with your competition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T10:37:02.510" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T10:37:02.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18250" CreationDate="2013-10-29T12:22:27.243" Score="-1" ViewCount="661" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_suspension#Rear_suspension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; Trek holds two of the several suspension frame designs, and uses them both (combined) on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/gravity/slash/slash_7/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mountain bikes&lt;/a&gt;. The technologies are EVO link and Full Floater, being claimed to both reduce pedal bob and brake squat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that there exists a &quot;most advanced&quot; frame geometry for a suspension bike, and that it is being produced by Trek?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a quick drop at the LBS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trek patented only the name, many quality bikes use this geometry, which&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is indeed superior to traditional 4-link designs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T15:41:25.807" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T16:57:32.487" Title="Is there a best suspension frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-10-31T22:37:55.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18230" CreationDate="2013-10-29T14:09:08.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only disadvantage I can think of (that you haven't already listed) is the remote control: It's yet another control sat on the handlebars. This is fine if you're running a single chain ring (1×10 or similar), because it can sit where the front shifter would normally go. Less than ideal if you're running 2 or 3×10, have remote lockouts, a bell and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages: You can adjust your seat height according to the terrain you're riding. Riding down something steep and scary? Doing some jumps? Push the button, drop the saddle. Hauling up a big climb? Spinning along the road between trails? Push the button, raise the saddle. Until I had one, I couldn't appreciate just what a big difference it can make. I occasionally drop the post just for a couple of corners, or raise it just for a quick sprint before dropping again for the rest of the descent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't really a clear winner, yet. The Gravity Dropper design has been around for &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt;; it's simple, proven and dependable. Of the current crop, the consensus seems to be that the Rockshox Reverb is &quot;the one&quot; (and comes specced on a lot of new bikes), although the more recent KS Lev and Thomson Elite Dropper are getting good reviews too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T14:09:08.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18248" CreationDate="2013-10-29T14:35:47.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, no, there is not a &quot;a best suspension frame&quot; (just as there is no best car, best breed of cat, or best person).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are loads of different suspension designs (single pivot, FSR, DW Link, Maestro, VPP, URT, iDrive, ABP, Switch, Pathlink, Droplink, to name only a few), each with their own distinct advantages and disadvantages. There are also a lot of different types of bike, aimed at different types of riding. What works for World Cup cross country might not work for downhill racing, at RedBull Rampage or even on trail bikes. They all make a different set of compromises. There are also a lot of different people with different riding styles, priorities and preferences. There's so much more too add into the equation, too (sizing and geometry, cockpit, wheel size and so on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while there might be a best suspension frame design for a given rider on for a certain trail, there is no single suspension design that stands out above all others in all situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a read of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/buyers-guide-to-mountain-bike-suspension-part-2-28438/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/buyers-guide-to-mountain-bike-suspension-part-2-28438/&lt;/a&gt; which provides a good primer on the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastEditorUserId="4307" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T16:57:32.487" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T16:57:32.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-29T14:57:37.823" Score="6" ViewCount="1836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a new bike (Pinnacle Neon 1 2013) which has a 42cm chainstay.&#xA;Just to be on the safe side, I was wondering which racks provide more heel clearance than average?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll only be using it for commuting so I don't need something as substantial as a Tubus, but at the same time I don't want it to collapse after a few weeks use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8508" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T16:44:29.770" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:22:04.367" Title="Which pannier racks give the best heel clearance?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18206" CreationDate="2013-10-30T04:42:48.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cross-chaining on a double-ring crankset is really only an issue on the two most extreme combinations (50/27 and 34/12); so avoid those for high-power or prolonged use and you're fine on the cross-chaining issue.  With the one big caveat to always trust your ears over guys on the internet - i.e. if it sounds wrong (like its rubbing much more than other gear combos), it probably is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the &quot;how to use&quot; question, once you get fairly strong, you'd pretty much &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; be on the big ring in front &lt;em&gt;except&lt;/em&gt; when you're doing extended climbs, which I'd define as anything long enough that you can't just stand up the whole way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until then, I wouldn't worry too much that the only cogs (in back) that feel comfortable w/ the big ring (in front) are your 21 and 24 (assuming you avoid the 27 due to cross-chaining) - if you're mostly riding on flat ground all the time, there's no &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; or expectation that you'd be constantly shifting between cogs.  When you encounter a climb, you just shift from the 50 to the 34 in front, when you get to the top/flat, you shift back from 34 to 50.  All while remaining on the 21 or 24 in back.  If that's too easy for a little climb, you'd shift up the 21 in back one or two cogs - or just stand up if it's short (e.g. bridge overpass), as standing up generally makes it feel like you just downshifted (i.e. easier) by 2 or 3 cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to ping me if you have any follow-up questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1228" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T04:42:48.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18258" CreationDate="2013-10-30T08:15:00.983" Score="0" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Rockrider btwin 6.2 full-suspension mountain bike. After 3 years of use, most of the parts were shot. I replaced most of them but also noticed that the swingarm pivot seems to have a seemingly unsafe amount of play. It surely seems to move more than 3-4mm. Before i try to open than and see what's up, is there anyone who has had a similar problem? or who know whether the bearings are standard/available and if at all it's easy/possible to fix it? considering this isn't a very expensive mountain bike. Would still like to keep it though, serves the commute to office and the outdoors on weekends. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8511" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T09:48:55.160" Title="Rockrider btwin 6.2 swingarm pivot" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18259" CreationDate="2013-10-30T09:17:35.527" Score="19" ViewCount="7673" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fsu4O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do manufacturers do this? What's even more interesting, many a bike have the middle cable fully housed, while the other two are &quot;interrupted&quot; as shown above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO those are the pros and cons of interrupting cable housing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lighter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more complicated to cut to length and install&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;more friction&lt;/strong&gt; as there are a lot of enter/exit points for the cable into the housing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;far more &lt;strong&gt;susceptible to dirt and water&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more expensive, because of end caps and labor cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As is evident, in my opinion, all cables should have uninterrupted housing. However, all kinds of bikes in all price ranges have these intermissions - on the top tube, bottom tube, seatstay (for the RD). And it is not a factor of weight, as 10-year old massive steel frames also utilize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There must be an explanation. But what is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T12:07:38.670" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T12:07:38.670" Title="Why does cable routing utilize alternation of sections of shielded and unshielded cable?" Tags="&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18255" CreationDate="2013-10-30T09:32:51.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The installation is actually much easier for the interrupted housing. Keep in mind that the cable is housed for the bent sections, and unhoused for for the straight sections. In a bended section, housing will keep itself in place through tension, and pretty much any round shape will do the job. In a straight section, you'd have to bend the housing exactly straight, and fixate it to avoid bending under stress. It's much easier to just have the cable running straight under tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that there is much friction at the entry/exit points of the housing, and you have more points to apply lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2353" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T09:32:51.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18255" CreationDate="2013-10-30T09:39:37.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you've got most of the reasons already. A couple of others:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cheaper to manufacture (less outer meaning less metal, same amount of inner)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lighter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easier to route cables (no need to feed outer through tubes or bend it into twist holders - look at how hydraulic tubing is routed as a comparison point)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less friction when clean and new (ie, in the bike shop when you're buying it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ease of servicing (releasing a cable is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; easier as you can pop it out of a frame attachment rather than having to undo the end bolt)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quieter (much less slapping against frame tubes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for the maker and seller, more frequent servicing, more frequent replacement (due to water getting in)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for the owner, more frequent servicing and replacement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that almost no-one does entirely outer sheathed on derailleur geared bikes because the bend under the bottom bracket to the front derailleur is too awkward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect cost to manufacture is the main driver of this, with weight a secondary consideration. On cheap bikes, it will be purely cost. That's why I'm sure it's cheaper, because on cheap bikes there is almost nothing that could be done more cheaply. Suspension and other sale gimmicks are the exception, obviously, but I've never seen &quot;exposed gear cables&quot; advertised as a feature on a cheap bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T09:39:37.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18254" CreationDate="2013-10-30T09:48:55.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to do is check all the pivot bolts are tight. If that doesn't fix it, figure out where the play is. Is it in the swingarm pivot, or the shock bushings? You can figure it out by holding onto each joint in turn and moving the swingarm. You shoukld be able to feel which part is loose. If it's been like it for a while, it might be all three points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you find the source of the problem, I guess you'll need to go to your local bike shop (or the place you got the bike - Decathlon?) and see if they're able to source the spare parts. Shock bushings should be easy enough to get, but I don't know about the pivot hardware. You'd need to open it up and have a look what's in there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T09:48:55.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18255" CreationDate="2013-10-30T09:59:32.460" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe one reason is more &quot;stiffness&quot; in the cable. Cable housing typically contracts when the cable is contracted. That's why Nokon also builds bicycle cable housing now. With The frame attachments, you get almost half a meter less housing that may contract. This could lead to crisper shift and brake feel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T09:59:32.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9207" CreationDate="2013-10-30T09:59:42.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course, though it depends what you call &quot;bulk quantity&quot;. I am going to assume home user fixing several bikes per year at most. For larger quantities, you might consider asking for special discounted offers for bulk purchases,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, there are kits with all necessary parts to replace all of a bike's cables. This one goes for under $12 with free world-wide shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aa0JC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, every LBS sells&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shifter cable (1BGN)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake cable (1BGN)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cable housing (2BGN/meter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;housing end caps (0.2-0.7BGN)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cable end caps (0.1BGN)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are all you need. Just ask them, buy some quantity, and have it at home. Also buy a dedicated bike cable and housing cutter (30BGN). When there is a problem, you reach for your tools and parts bin and 10 minutes later the cables are replaced, all by yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do bike shops deal with this? Surely they don't buy individual packs of cable for every bike do they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do. All cables are manufactured to a standard length, then cut after installation to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T10:09:20.137" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T10:09:20.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18255" CreationDate="2013-10-30T11:45:16.900" Score="9" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not a given that the full-length housing is lower friction.  I suspect that a well-done exposed cable scheme is lower friction than a full housing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Especially for indexed shifters, the cable housing changes effective length with tension and temperature changes.  The exposed cable scheme has much less flex and hence more precision shifting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The full-length housing is &lt;em&gt;ugly&lt;/em&gt;!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't looked at new bikes much in about 5 years, but prior to that the full-length housing was almost exclusively seen on inexpensive bikes, while the exposed cable was common on the more expensive ones.  This strongly suggests that cost is not a reason for exposed cables.  (And reason also suggests this -- the housing is cheaper than the housing ends, eg.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, full-length housings are more compatible with suspension bikes, and probably have some advantages on true off-road bikes.  So you'll see full-length housings more and more on bikes in that spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T11:45:16.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12341" CreationDate="2013-10-30T14:10:45.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just one thing I didn't see addressed in the other answers: Cycling shoes are very low-volume - which means they are supposed to fit very snugly and not have a lot of room for your foot to move around.  This is why cycling specific socks are so thin - they are designed to maximize moisture transfer off of your foot (to keep your feet comfortable) while not creating extra pressure due to extra material and/or padding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus they're usually slathered with brand names and they match the rest of your kit.  So, they're totally necessary if you're going to look pro.  And as we all know, looking pro directly translates into going faster ;-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T14:10:45.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18264" CreationDate="2013-10-30T20:44:31.677" Score="0" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;You often signal on a bike like you signal a car, with your left hand. This lets most people keep their good hand on the handle for steering. Some of my friends, though, signal with their right hand so they can quickly pull the front brake if they need to. Why aren't bikes made with the front brake on the right side, so you get both good steering and emergency braking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8514" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T21:32:12.730" Title="Why is the front brake always on the left?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;signals&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-10-31T03:33:10.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18263" CreationDate="2013-10-30T21:32:12.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Emergency braking with one hand off the bars will end in tears regardless of which hand is on the bars. Skilled riders can steer accurately with either hand and often use their less dominant hand to steer while grabbing food or drink or making adjustment to clothing and bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is your suggestion safer - I believe its debatable, and even if it is, the difference is pretty marginal - how often does a rider have to pull an emergency  stop while signalling, and more importantly, of those cases, how often would it make a difference to the outcome? What is less safe is riding a bike that is configured differently from what you are used to, hence the convention. If you have ever had the joy of pulling an emergency stop on a bike wired &quot;the wrong way&quot; you will understand what I mean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I live, convention is different to where you live, however, only a few riders think enough about to worry, and fewer have a need to deal with it. Those that do learn to either adapt to new bikes quickly or reconfigure their bikes to suit them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T21:32:12.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18266" CreationDate="2013-10-30T22:01:15.783" Score="2" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Phrased towards someone looking to purchase a new commuter bike, I prioritize a quiet smooth ride when possible.  One of my past issues is that bikes are often great on the test ride but pretty quickly develop a lot of &quot;personality.&quot;  Are there some recommendations as to which components or brands are the quietest without too much sacrifice of functionality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: No, I am not planning illicit bike-behavior!)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gearing:  I expect a fixed gear would win by far, but that's not really my interest. Other than that, will fewer gears produce best results?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub:  My old Raleigh freewheel actually had a beautifully quiet ratchet (softer than most cassettes I hear), but it took me a while to find one that doesn't start clicking after a few rides.  Is there a type/brand of cassettes which will do better? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifters:  I've been using downtube shifters which are great- no &quot;click click THUNK&quot;.  But if they don't line up just right (user error) they can be a loud bother.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires:  Best results I've found are totally smooth tires.  Does width/pressure affect this much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes:  I've not had a bike with anything but hub brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accessories:  Racks are out.  Fenders are iffy, but removable is best, noise doesn't matter much in the rain!  Of course an item to make noise for when I need it :). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7907" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T23:35:41.357" Title="Quiet Components/Configurations" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18265" CreationDate="2013-10-30T23:04:34.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An internally geared system would be the quietest option available for a commuter set up. A groupset such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rohloff&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/0/alfine.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Alfine&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/urban/component/internal-gear-hubs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SRAM&lt;/a&gt; would offer near silent operation. You could pair this with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbondrivesystems.com/products/overview/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;belt drive train&lt;/a&gt; to reduce this further. This would also alleviate hub noise. The Rohloff probably has the quietest shifter as it is not indexed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For brakes I'm not sure if there is any difference between the noise made by rim vs. disc brakes although when they bite they may be louder than a coaster brake but much safer. Disc brakes would be my recommendation if your were considering cycling in the rain. There is no difference in noise between mechanical and hydraulic set ups but for commuting 140mm mechnicals would be just as effective as hydraulic brakes (unless your doing technical descents) as there would be very little differentiation in modulation and they are easier to maintain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accessories will be all about what you choose, how you fit them and how you maintain the bike. You will need to keep things well lubricated to keep noise down (anything with a bearing) and taking time to fit things properly and to the right torques (such as bottom bracket). Pumps and tools can be placed in old tubes to keep them from rattling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tires I dont think totally slick is the best option, also where you have said rain was an issue but something that had a specifically noise and puncture resistant tread and a low rolling resistence would be best for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-10-30T23:35:41.357" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T23:35:41.357" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18268" CreationDate="2013-10-30T23:35:13.313" Score="9" ViewCount="7515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was cycling home today and I got a puncture a few minutes in where the air slowly drained rather than instant rim to concrete! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fitted a new tube and 10 minutes further down,  exact same issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wanted some ideas of things that can cause these kind of punctures as it seems to be bike related rather than the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I've considered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grit inside tyre, which I did check for when fitting new tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over pumping tyres and travelling on bumpy roads (road bike tyres to 100psi in cold weather)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noticed a very very slight nick on the rim where, which is slightly protruding into the side wall of the tyre, although I didn't expect it would be able to get through tyre to tube. Will be sanding regardless. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel is mildly buckled looking at it, that couldn't cause punctures as far as I know.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could just be bad luck, but any advice with getting to the root cause would be great. Otherwise I'll be forever replacing tubes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Gatorskin tyres that are around a month old, so it shouldn't be tyre wear related. Repair and investigation will take place shortly based on the advice here. Pinching the tyre or debris in the tyre seem to be the most likely causes. Will post back with further update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repaired the puncture last night and inspected the tubes/tyre. There was no obvious debris in the tyre (unless it fell out whilst I repaired). Nonetheless, I thoroughly inspected and brushed tyre inside and out, found a small hole (2mm) in the tyre, which I can only assume was the offending point, as I didn't check alignment from the original puncture. It was only a tiny hole so I applied some rubber glue to seal it. Managed to get to work today without a repeat - so fingers crossed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7475" LastEditorUserId="7475" LastEditDate="2013-11-06T11:30:32.693" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T11:30:32.693" Title="Repeat Punctures" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2013-10-30T23:49:49.673" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every once in a while it is just bad luck. Most of the time though, if you've fitted a new tube and it starts to leak within minutes, that means you have something on the inside of your tire that is causing the leak. A thorn, piece of glass or debris, etc. Usually you can find the culprit if you very very thoroughly run your fingers along the inside of the tire. If all else fails you might be due for a new tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;visit &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13007/what-steps-should-i-follow-to-patch-a-tube/13011#13011&quot;&gt;What steps should I follow to patch a tube?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T23:49:49.673" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18270" CreationDate="2013-10-31T01:05:02.950" Score="6" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was trolling eBay and found this crazy looking old serrated wrench bike tool. The auction had no specifics. I can't think of what you would do with such an item. What the hell is it for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5iiYM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crazzy assed tool.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T01:37:49.527" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T08:30:41.373" Title="What is this serrated wrench tool for?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18269" CreationDate="2013-10-31T01:10:29.630" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a wrench that will work on a range of different size nuts and bolts. Each step on the top ramp will grab a different size. A further advantage is that it will work equally well (or badly) on four sided nuts, and on five and seven sided &quot;security&quot; bolts that a conventional adjustable wrench with parallel jaws will not work on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will not work especially well, but it's a one-piece equivalent to a proper adjustable wrench, which in turn will not work as well as a proper set of spanners. They're made because they're cheap, light, and easy to manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: found the ad on ebay and it has another image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqm8g.png&quot; alt=&quot;another image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's only about 10cm long, it seems to be about 2mm thick based on the image above. So Daniel might be right, it would work for holding cones and locknuts in place. Wandering the internet I haven't been able to find anything similar, unfortunately, but I recall seeing them in some collections of very old tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-11-01T08:30:41.373" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T08:30:41.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18277" CreationDate="2013-10-31T03:21:56.983" Score="5" ViewCount="2238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying a TT bike that has a full SRAM Red group.  I'm wondering if it's possible to use my Shimano Ultegra 6700 left-side crank in place of the SRAM Red crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why?  I've got a Stages power meter in the Shimano crank that I use on my regular road bike.  One of the main reasons I went with the Stages meter was the flexibility of swapping the crank across multiple bikes.  So, naturally I'd like to use my power meter on the TT bike by just swapping it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts on using the two systems together!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT/UPDATE:&#xA;I ended up buying the TT bike.  As the answer below says the SRAM crankset is not compatible with the Ultegra crank.  So, I bought a used Ultegra crankset and put that on in place of the SRAM one.  There was a spacer on the left side of the bottom bracket that had to be removed in order to get the Ultegra crankset to fit.  I just tapped the bearing out, removed the little sleeve and tapped the bearing back in, took about 10 minutes total.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new hybrid SRAM-Shimano drivetrain functions perfectly, I even swapped out the big ring from the SRAM set for the Ultegra one (SRAM ring is a 55 which I like having on the TT bike).  It looks a bit wonky with the mismatched crank/ring combo but everything works fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastEditorUserId="6533" LastEditDate="2014-04-09T14:30:11.327" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T14:30:11.327" Title="Ultegra 6700 Left Side Crank with SRAM Red" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-31T13:03:29.400" Score="12" ViewCount="10395" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is using latex inner tubes worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My use of it would be on a racing bike, for training and racing purposes, only on road, mostly in good condition (but in an urban environment so there are some worse spots...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride on a set of Conti 4Season 23mm tyres which weigh 230g each and I love them so far (have them also on my touring bike and I suffered 2 punctures in 10000 km, find them fast and grippy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current tubes are 105g and the latex ones I am looking at are 82g so an overall gain of 46g on the whole bike which does not seem completely negligible since it is a moving part...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, I intend using this on racing and training, so I will never ride without a track pump more than a day so pressure loss should not be a problem assuming it can keep enough pressure for a couple of days (I am saying two because I need one whole day of fully usable pressure). So will the pressure be an issue for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about comfort and rolling resistance? I read here and there comfort is increased and resistance is lowered. How noticable is it? and again: is it worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I hear the elasticity of latex allows it to puncture less and even when it does to lose pressure slowly (compared to butyl) and ride home with a few pumps. It that true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when it does puncture, can it be fixed with regular patches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, are there any precautions to be taken while mounting it, pitfalls to avoid and so on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, is it worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T21:47:21.610" Title="Benefits of latex tubes... Are they worth it?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2013-10-31T13:22:46.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had similar issues due to rim tape wearing or moving to the edges of spoke holes.  That would be consistent with what happened to you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is damage to the tire (e.g. holes in the sidewall), that could also cause similar symptoms, but it sounds like you would have picked up on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T13:22:46.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7168" CreationDate="2013-10-31T15:28:11.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some folding bikes do very well on long distance rides.  The Origami Mantis, Crane, and Cricket models are compact, but they have a good riding position and nice geometry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8517" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T15:28:11.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-31T15:45:50.180" Score="0" ViewCount="1052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took my fork into my mechanic for service because it was making a rattling noise in one of the fork legs. Upon initial assessment he thought it was a broken return spring for the air cartridge. Turns out the fork is primarily spring with a little air on the side. Also turns out that the springs are just worn. Couple questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I better off replacing springs or buying a new fork?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the springs are that worn, will other parts of the fork be breaking soon?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I replace fork springs myself? I've done an oil change and seals/wipers so far on my own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fork is a 2004 Marzocchi Bomber Dirt Jumper 1. Used for dirt jumping and street riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T20:02:24.170" Title="Maintenance of Fork springs on Marzocchi Bomber Dirt Jumper" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17617" CreationDate="2013-10-31T19:40:38.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's really wet out there and you're going to be riding through puddles, unfortunately there isn't much you can do to fully protect your drivetrain.  I purchased SKS Longboard Full Coverage fenders, which are 45 mm wide and extend &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; far down in the front.  In fact, the mud flap nearly touches the ground when the bike is fully upright and usually skirts the ground when cornering or passing over speed bumps (ordinary bumps, not bunny hopping).  Even so, I would come home after some rainy days to find my shoes and drivetrain covered in mud, despite only ever riding on asphalt paths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride in the autumn, expect to get leaves caught in between the wheel and the fender, since the ultra-low clearance to the street sweeps up leaves and doesn't allow enough room for them to fall back down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride in the winter, expect snow and slush to accumulate on the mud flaps any time there are flurries.  I wouldn't recommend riding in any case if the weather calls for anything more severe than flurries unless you have some really wide knobby tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a while, the bottom of the front fender bent upwards, making an annoying flapping sound throughout the ride.  Eventually the entire piece just snapped off and now I have a more normal-length front fender, though the mud flap did not reattach.  It is now cracking in yet another spot, just due to wear and tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI I was running 32C hybrid tires at the time.  I eventually switched to 28C road slicks, but that was after the fender broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T19:40:38.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18271" CreationDate="2013-10-31T19:46:10.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking under correction, because I don't know the exact model, but have owned Shimano &amp;amp; SRAM in the last few years.  The two systems aren't compatible to the point that you can just swap the left side crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, you will be able to swap both sides.  In other words, once you've taken the left side off, the right side, with chainrings and all should just slide out.  You can then put the whole shebang onto the other bike.  As long as the chainrings are the same size (i.e. 53x39) you won't need to move the front deraileur to accommodate the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="168" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T19:46:10.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2013-10-31T19:50:23.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After repeated punctures like you describe, I replaced my stock tires with Continental Gatorskin tires and haven't had any problems since.  If your tire is looking fairly chewed up, or you tend to ride on rough and dirty roads, then you may need to upgrade to a stronger tire.  It's fairly cheap and has paid for itself over time by lowering my spending on new tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I was getting more punctures in the back than the front, which is common given the natural weight distribution over the wheels.  I opted to put ultra gatorskins on the back for the extra protection, although neither front nor back has punctured yet in over 1,000 miles of cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T19:50:23.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2013-10-31T20:40:47.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I noticed was that your bottom gets sore pretty fast, and after a while it becomes almost unbearable.  I tried buying a new, cushier saddle, but practically the only solution to this is &lt;strong&gt;padded cycling shorts&lt;/strong&gt; (or tights in colder weather).  If you’re willing to sacrifice a bit of convenience when changing for some added comfort, &lt;strong&gt;I’d highly recommend bib shorts&lt;/strong&gt;.  Maybe it’s just me, but the regular shorts continually need to be adjusted over the course of a long ride, while bib shorts are largely “put it on and forget about it.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of my other tips from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://greenwaycommuter.wordpress.com/2013/05/24/tips-for-novices-for-long-distance-bike-rides/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blog post&lt;/a&gt; I once wrote on this topic have already been mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T20:40:47.613" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-10-31T20:40:47.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2013-10-31T21:43:26.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have a repeat puncture, first of all to do is to locate the puncture and then very thoroughly check the tire / rim for deformations on relative place.&#xA;Then, sure, take in mind all of the comments on the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T21:43:26.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17617" CreationDate="2013-10-31T22:30:12.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the risk of sounding snarky, I just want to add one thing to the otherwise excellent advice in the answers: motivation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety considerations aside, you don't really need any accessory to commute in bad weather. It is more a matter of how much discomfort you're willing to tolerate. &quot;The gear&quot; is not what is holding you back. Sure you can go all out and get full fenders with mud-flaps, waterproof panniers, appropriate lights, a cycling specific rain poncho, exactly the right gloves, splats, rain-pants, shoe covers, full-chain-guard, wax lubricant, seat protector, etc, etc. But what would that get you? You'll still get wet or sweaty and you'll have to maintain all this stuff not to mention lug it around-- or risk finding yourself leavinng work during a thunderstorm with all your rain-day-stuff safe and dry at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to get fenders/lights to start with, then just make a commitment to commute in the rain. Eventually, as a result of an extremely uncomfortable commute, you might consider adding a thing or two beyond that and make carefully considered adjustments according to temperature, distance, speed, and portability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, you're more likely to stick to it if you do it no matter what with the expectation of a modicum of misery and discomfort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T22:30:12.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2013-10-31T23:27:53.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Biking in the dark isn't as scary as biking at dawn/dusk&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first started bike commuting and the sun got low in the sky in the evenings, I'd leave work and try to get home before the sun went down. I didn't realize then that that was the absolute worst time to bike because the low sun meant that it was in driver's eyes, making bikes very difficult to see, even with lights and bright clothes, I just wanted to get home before it got dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when the sun starts getting low, I wait until it sets before leaving work rather than try to beat the sun home. Once the sun sets, then my lights and reflectors are &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more visible to cars. And with a decent headlight (which is much cheaper now than it used to be), seeing the road is not a problem at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You still have to worry about nighttime visibility and &lt;em&gt;watch for cars without headlights&lt;/em&gt;.... unlit cars are exceptionally hard to see against a background of headlights (and early in the night biking season, car drivers aren't used to turning on their headlights when leaving work so might drive quite some time before they notice) Bikes too are more difficult to see against a background of headlights/taillights, but even so, I'll still take biking in the dark over biking at sunrise/sunset when drivers are struggling to see against the sun. I've biked behind some cars at sunset where I couldn't see through their windshield myself due to dirt and/or scratches, so I really don't think they could see well enough to drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have adequate lights and reflectors. At a minimum, front and rear lights and reflectors, reflective spokes or tires, and reflective pedals or ankle bands (the motion lets cars know that you're a bike). I have a helmet headlight/taillight since I feel that the higher position makes it easier for cars to see me, especially if I'm stopped in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T23:27:53.597" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-10-31T23:27:53.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17617" CreationDate="2013-10-31T23:38:50.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to add some points to the otherwise good recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A fully closed chainguard so the chain doesn't get wet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An internally geared hub so performance is not affected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know the word, but a mudguard at the &lt;em&gt;side&lt;/em&gt; of the wheel, such as in the creative image posted below, can be quite helpful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be extra visible!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SDjJC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bicycle&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Fiets_Wildbreien.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source: Baykedevries, Wikimedia Commons&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T23:38:50.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2013-11-01T03:36:49.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get Quality Equipment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Puncture-resistant tires.&lt;/strong&gt; Schwalbe Marathon, Continental Gatorskin, or Specialized Armadillo. Those are the three most popular puncture-resistant tire models but there are many others. I like the Schwalbe Marathons because they have reflective sidewalls, providing nighttime side visibility to car drivers. I get very, very few flats on them and they last a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bright headlights and taillights.&lt;/strong&gt; Really super bright LED lights are available now that don't cost that much money. Totally worth it because bright lights cause many more car drivers to yield to you, and sooner. Almost every close call I have ever had with a car happened at night when I was riding without lights. I have noticed some people using bright blinking lights (both front and rear) even in the daytime and that increases their visibility even more. Choose some based on the excellent reviews available at &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/2013/09/the-2013-headlights-review/&quot;&gt;http://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/2013/09/the-2013-headlights-review/&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/2013/09/best-bike-tail-lights-review/&quot;&gt;http://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/2013/09/best-bike-tail-lights-review/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A rear-view mirror.&lt;/strong&gt; I use the &quot;Take A Look Cyclist View Mirror&quot; that clips onto my glasses because it's large and rectangular, which lets me see more of the road behind me. If you don't have glasses then get some and clip these onto them. The mirror is distracting and annoying for the first week or so but then you get used to it. Having a rear-view mirror is an amazingly HUGE improvement - it's much less stressful to ride because you can see all the cars coming up behind you, and you can control that traffic by adjusting your lateral position in a way that's impossible if you have to turn your head to see behind.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fenders and waterproof clothes.&lt;/strong&gt; Fenders are cheap and they reduce the amount of water that splashes onto you - especially onto your feet - by a huge amount. Get fenders that cover as much of your wheels as possible, not those crappy &quot;road bike&quot; clip-on kind. Waterproof clothes that are also comfortable (breathable) are not cheap, but improve your comfort immensely. I like Gore-Tex stuff and think it really works (it's waterproof and makes you much less sweaty than cheap nylon rain stuff.    &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8510" LastEditorUserId="8510" LastEditDate="2013-11-01T04:05:37.543" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T04:05:37.543" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-11-01T03:36:49.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2013-11-01T06:39:55.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That it's not a race and you don't have to beat anyone to the finish!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you going to draft it's rude not to say hello and ask if it's ok!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T06:39:55.513" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-11-01T06:39:55.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4010" CreationDate="2013-11-01T06:57:34.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought VELA Pearl White folding bike from a Canadian Company called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velabike.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vela bike&lt;/a&gt;.  I personally think Citizen, Schwin, and Vela bike all have the similar specs, but for sure VELA folding bikes are better looking than Citizen or Schwinn bikes.  For $300 ranged aluminum folding bike, there are limits in the good designed folding bikes in the market in the U.S.&#xA;I am very happy with my purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8520" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T06:57:34.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17617" CreationDate="2013-11-01T08:27:25.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the hour-long process side of things, the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13523/minimal-effort-chain-cleaning&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; (shameless self plug) provide good advice. Especially the heavy-duty wet weather MTB lube meant I have to clean my chain much less frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T08:27:25.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15920" CreationDate="2013-11-01T08:32:10.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same happening to my Fulcrum 5 Evo (I think the set is from 2007) during the second season of use. I contacted the dealer that sold me the wheels and they put on a new wheel and said it was a warranty issue! Your wheel is probably too old for warranty I guess. The replacement wheel has been working fine ever since, now downgraded to autumn/winter commuting rides on the Norwegian west coast (i.e. lots of rain and road grime). - I agree with @Ken Hiatt, water, mud, grime makes its way inside and speeds up the wear rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T08:32:10.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18291" CreationDate="2013-11-01T08:52:17.777" Score="10" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a road race, I can imagine riding in a pelton has an advantage against air drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for MTB this does not make sense. XC races are slower than road races, and in a DH race having someone closely in front of you seems to be just another way to fall from the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;So what does it mean a mountain racing team? How do they function as a team? How do they behave during a race?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess a team of professional riders will have near identical skill level. On the other hand, a team of amateur enthusiasts can have vastly varying skill levels. How does this affect the answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2013-11-01T10:53:39.373" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T13:47:52.890" Title="How does a mountain racing team work together?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18289" CreationDate="2013-11-01T09:05:05.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the type of race. XC marathons include lots of opportunities for drafting on gravel roads etc. But usually there is no such thing as peloton there, just small groups of riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other way of helping is carrying tools or food for your lead racer. In case he has a mechanical, you are just some minute behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general MTB teams are used for organized training rides, logistics with only minor help for other team members during the race. It is also easier to get a sponsorship for a team instead of individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T09:05:05.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18289" CreationDate="2013-11-01T12:32:32.433" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each type of racing is able to take advantage of certain team dynamics, and a few things are common across all disciplines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specifics:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;DH/Super D: Downhill &quot;teams&quot; are more associated by sponsors and bikes than by riding together during a race. Since each run is done one at a time there's no drafting or anything like that. However, during track walks and practice teammates can help each other with line choice and bike setup suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;XC/Marathon/Cyclocross: Cross country teams sometimes act more like a road team with drafting happening on straights and doubletrack sections. Teammates can also help pace each other through longer races. With teams that have riders across multiple levels of competition or age groups, some team members may act as support during another member's race (hand ups, mechanical, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enduro: Though relatively new as a competition (in some parts of the world), Enduro takes facets from both XC and DH. Typical Enduro races are one at a time affairs where each rider is on his own, but might benefit from teammates during practice like a DH race. However, in races like the Megavalanche with a mass start, teammates can help to protect each other or advance a rider through a pack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Other: 4X is pretty similar to BMX and DH in that practice usually assists the teammate more than during the race. Trials is the same. Short track is closer to road and XC in team dynamics, but more like a Criterium in pace and tactics.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shared:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Training(Bike): Most teams have at least a few training sessions as a whole team. Obviously this can be difficult logistically if team members are further apart (other side of the country/world/state). Sometimes this takes the form of special trips, such as to an area of high altitude, for working on specific training. Other times it's just regular rides or skills work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Training(Other): Large teams have associations with gyms an trainers to provide their athletes with good off-bike training as well. Team workouts happen along with individual workouts tailored for the rider's needs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nutrition: Again, larger teams usually benefit more here with a dedicated health person who will work with the athletes on their nutrition and food intake.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Race support: Mechanics, cheering, pits and everything else that happens on race day is supported by everyone on the team. Whether that's a teammate on the sidelines cheering you on up a grueling climb, or your mechanic making that last minute suspension change before your finals run.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, a team is what you make of it. I know guys who ride for a team, but are pretty solitary and keep to themselves. There are other teams that seem more like a traveling party, but they know when to train and when to have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T12:32:32.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-01T15:39:37.243" Score="1" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/mountainbikecom/featured-stories/jacks-not-here-man&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicycling.com/mountainbikecom/featured-stories/jacks-not-here-man&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where the caliper grips the rotor along its diameter makes no difference in braking or suspension behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &quot;no&quot; really mean &quot;zero&quot;, as the article claims? (I often find that universal claims are overstated, so I look out for them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is the article exaggerating the point that the &quot;most important&quot; forces with regards to suspension comes from the contact patch effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4552" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T19:10:44.530" Title="Caliper position effect on braking or suspension?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;braking&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18292" CreationDate="2013-11-01T15:48:42.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The article is correct, as far as the suspension goes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically the brake force being applied to a different part of the rotor would mean you've moved the brake caliper, which could influence the way that force is felt on the seat/chainstay (depending on where the mounts are). However, if you're moving the caliper significantly, then you've probably already thought of bolstering the mounting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T15:48:42.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18292" CreationDate="2013-11-01T18:38:17.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So long as the caliper attachment point is rigidly connected to the axle, precisely where along the circumference of the rotor (or wheel, for rim brakes) the caliper sits is of no consequence (other than to the designer, who must consider stresses on the &quot;rigid&quot; components).  Braking force and forces applied to suspension components do not change based on the location of the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that position will, to a significant degree, affect such factors as the torque put on the &quot;tine&quot; of the front fork, which may in turn result in such things as a slight twist in the caliper position while braking, but these effects can only occur to the extent that the &quot;rigid&quot; components aren't, quite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T18:38:17.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18306" CreationDate="2013-11-01T19:16:11.923" Score="5" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got Nashbar's Ascent Fluid trainer and put an old big-box store bike on it that nobody was using, so now I've got kind of a permanent trainer bike which is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: me and my partner are different heights/sizes, though close enough that all I really want to do is raise the seatpost when I ride, then adjust back down when I'm done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I need a new seatpost for this b/c it's too short to go any higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: is there a risk of damaging/wearing out the seatpost/tube quickly by adjusting it twice daily (once when I get on, then again when I get off)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what kind of lube (if that's suggested) should I use that won't have toxic/smelly fumes and be excessively messy/require wipedown every time I lower the seatpost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use park anti-sieze for my main ride, but that stuff is nasty/toxic so I don't leave any exposed (on the rare occasion I adjust height).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just resign myself to eventually wearing out the seat tube and/or buying new cheapo seatposts once in a while?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4961" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T21:51:11.837" Title="Daily Adjusted Seatpost for Trainer Bike" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-01T19:33:31.627" Score="5" ViewCount="2319" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q1.&lt;/strong&gt; For rear cantilever brakes, are there any off-the-shelf parts or brake designs that route a rear brake cable from underneath the saddle cable instead of above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q2.&lt;/strong&gt; If not, then can anyone suggest an improvised, but proven setup using existing, readily-available parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q3.&lt;/strong&gt; What concerns should I have with a reverse-pull cantilever brake setup (e.g. safety, maintenance)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a mixte frame with standard rear cantilever brake bosses on the seat stays, with standard cantilever brakes such as these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vwqy5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;classic wide cantilever brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the frame is a mixte, the rear brakes are higher than the &quot;top tube&quot; of the mixte, along which runs my rear brake cable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen that some mixtes use a &lt;em&gt;reverse&lt;/em&gt; cable attachment to side-pull caliper brakes so that the cable makes a single arc from the top tube to the brakes. &#xA;My goal is to roughly mimic this cable routing, but with cantilever brakes instead.  Here is an example (but mine does not have a rack to work around):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KajFq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a reverse-pull caliper brake setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original build is pictured below (not the actual bike, but same model, etc.) and has the rear brake cable running along the &quot;top tube&quot;, curving along the back of the seat tube, and then going over a pulley that is attached to the seat tube clamp bolt.  That pulley acts as a housing stop and so it's a center-pull from the top.  I am looking to improve the rear brake responsiveness, put less stress and wear on the cable, and have fun engineering a more elegant solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tZrXs.png&quot; alt=&quot;Schwinn Mirada rear brake setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2013-11-06T20:31:48.087" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T06:44:00.300" Title="Reverse center pull cantilever brakes (how to set up and issues)" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18296" CreationDate="2013-11-01T20:10:06.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just buy an inexpensive metal seat post, and if eventually it wears out it wears out. That seems to be your least expensive option. Especially if it's just a trainer bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just lube it up with either a little bit of oil or odorless teflon grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T20:10:06.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2013-11-01T20:24:11.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you check to find whether the punctures were in the same places on the tubes? If you did and they weren't, it's probably bad luck. If you did and they were, you've probably got something embedded in the tire casing or possibly a spoke that's pushing against the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good practice, if you're not already doing it, is to align your tire's label with the valve hole on the rim. This makes it easier to align the hole in the tube with the corresponding point on the tire, so that you can feel for embedded bits of glass, or wires from shredded car tires (notoriously problematic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T20:24:11.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18206" CreationDate="2013-11-01T22:31:59.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First: Don't worry about cross chaining, with modern chains and gears it just doesn't cause any problems or is any less efficient. Ride the gears that work for&#xA;you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second: You've discovered the limits of Compact Cranksets. They just don't work very well unless you can do almost all your riding except for climbing on the big ring. If you do a lot of riding in the 25 kph range, the standard setup just doesn't work very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to either make the big ring smaller, or get a cluster in the back that &#xA;has more gears in the range you want rather than the kinda of useless 12,13,14. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, 48/30 or even 46/30 would be a whole lot more useful for average folks if you're going to have 12-27 in the back. But almost nobody makes a road crank that would have those gears.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach would be to look into Junior racing cassettes. You can get a cassettes with a 14 or 16t top cog that provide more choices around the speeds you actually ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-ultegra-6600-10-speed-cassette/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-ultegra-6600-10-speed-cassette/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you can just bite the bullet and get a triple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2013-11-01T22:37:38.573" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T22:37:38.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18297" CreationDate="2013-11-01T22:34:27.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't do this with traditional cantilever brakes, because the straddle wire has to be pulled from above to tension it - attempting to pull it from below would pull into the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could pull from the side by using direct pull cantlievers, a.k.a. v-brakes. A Problem Solvers &quot;Travel Agent&quot; could probably be hacked up to work, and a clean implementation could probably be done with one of the no-longer-produced World Class &quot;V-Daptor&quot; adapters, if you could find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, both of those approaches are probably less elegant than the already-existing pulley method that it sounds like already works on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T22:34:27.793" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2013-11-01T23:26:20.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that getting repeat punctures can simply be a sign that your tires are past their useful lifespan. I went on a long tour and had no flats for weeks on end, but then once my touring tires passed the 2000 mile mark, I got two flats in two days. I replaced my tires and had no flats again for weeks on end, and again when the tires passed the 2000 mile mark I got a couple flats in as many days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My story is only a couple of data points, but there does seem to be some consensus that tires simply wear out after a fixed distance -- though that distance depends on make, air pressure, rider weight, etc., see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-373944.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingforums.com/t/156930/road-tire-life-span&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7741" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T23:26:20.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-02T00:25:33.660" Score="3" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I encountered a puncture. I pulled the tube, ran my fingers around the inside and outside of the tire carefully looking for the offending object, found nothing, so concluded it was probably a pinch flat (I had just hit a pothole).  I installed a new tube, being careful to seat it properly to avoid pinches, and re-inflated.  Within seconds the second tube was flat.  That being my only spare tube and my only CO2 cartridge and it being dark and a very long walk home, I called the sag wagon (aka my wife).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back home, I removed the tire from the rim, turned it inside out, inspected carefully, and found nothing.  Ditto with the rim and rim tape.  And, I should add, these are virtually new tires and rims with barely a hundred kilometers on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I looked at the second tube that failed, I found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SN8r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those slices are directly opposite the valve stem, and a careful re-inspection of the tire and wheel at that location revealed nothing.  But as you can see, they're quite large slices.  I might suspect a faulty tube if it were just one slice, but two?  That seems extremely unlikely to be a faulty tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know no one can tell me exactly what happened, so my question is what are the possibilities?  What the heck could have made cuts that large that occurred without even riding on the wheel and which couldn't be felt with my fingers on inspection?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T14:38:42.063" Title="What could have caused this flat?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17617" CreationDate="2013-11-02T00:43:26.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend rain pants and waterproof shoe covers as well.  A few years ago I used to ride to school in all kinds of weather (though any time the snow was deep enough to cancel school I stayed off the bike).  My experience was always that even with a good set of fenders, there's going to be some spray, and I always regretted not covering my shoes.  Back then, the best solution I managed to come up with was just plastic grocery bags tucked in to the bottom of the rain pants, but at some point I discovered that the motorcycle crew has already solved this problem, and you can buy motorcycle shoe/boot covers that work quite well and have thicker rubberized bottoms so that you can walk around in them or put a foot down at traffic lights without wearing a hole through the bottom.  Now if only they made them in XXL so that my shoes actually fit properly in them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the drivetrain, my solution was mostly just to ride an old clunker on the rainy days, and try to get it dried out when I got home (which, since I lived in a fairly dry place at the time usually just meant &quot;make sure to shake all the snow off&quot;).  I'm sure it wasn't very good for it, but that bike's still chugging along, so it can't have been &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; bad for it either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8524" LastActivityDate="2013-11-02T00:43:26.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18296" CreationDate="2013-11-02T21:50:03.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bike is a cheap one, then a really cheap seatpost must exist for it. Cheap Seatposts are usually made of steel or mild steel, which should withstand the wear from repeatedly adjusting the seat height, so my advise here is, don't worry that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bikes use a type of seatpost that doesn't have an integrated seat clamp. If this is your case, it is likely that you can even fit a piece of common steel pipe to it, which will result really cheap if you obtain it from a scrapyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion is, instead of using the quick release clamp, you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; like to make a few side to side perforations in the seatpost and using a pin to keep it from going down. This may make a quicker adjustment every time, you'll save just a few seconds. This sugestion is particularly suited if you can use plain pipe for a seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding lubricant: If it is really being changed/regulated daily, and the post slides really easily into the seat tube, there is no need for lubricant. If the seatpost slides easily, the friction is virtually non existent so there is no need to worry for it. Covering seatposts with grease is advised to prevent seizure of the post to the frame due to galvanic corrosion, but this only happens if the two pieces are left together long enough. So, again, if you are moving it daily and are concerned about fumes from the lube, you are probably fine without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2013-11-02T22:00:38.797" LastActivityDate="2013-11-02T22:00:38.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18303" CreationDate="2013-11-02T23:30:00.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I patched both tubes yesterday, partially inflated them, and let them sit overnight (without being in a tire).  One of them was flat today, so I tossed it as probably having an unseen slow leak not worth finding.  The other one I remounted and rode 40 miles today without problem.  So apparently either: 1) I somehow damaged the second tube mounting it, or 2) there was something in the tire I never saw or felt on inspection and it fell out without me noticing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-11-03T06:05:19.643" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T06:05:19.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18246" CreationDate="2013-11-02T23:56:49.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going out on a limb I'll say it's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2005&amp;amp;Brand=Haro&amp;amp;Model=Escape%208.1&amp;amp;Type=bike#.UnWQ3PlmhcY&quot;&gt;Haro Escape&lt;/a&gt; frame c2002 - 2005 with donor parts from a c2001 Fuji. Haro's have a decipherable serial number for BMXs so MTB might be similar check &lt;a href=&quot;http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=206889&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; to see if that is any help in confirming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was the Haro Escape it could well be a good frame to rebuild with a 150mm fork for a fun AM/FR hardtail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-11-03T00:29:57.563" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T00:29:57.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18310" CreationDate="2013-11-03T00:24:10.457" Score="2" ViewCount="10705" Body="&lt;p&gt;My boyfriend just bought a brand new bike and was trying to teach me to ride it, and (I, being a complete noob) when I was standing with it I messed with the gears using the handle at a standstill. Changed the rear one from 3 to 1. He then started riding it and the the plastic part that helps it shift (I think) broke. You could hear a sudden crunching when he started riding it and the whole back part just snapped and broke. I assume it was that I just moved that, but was it? And why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8529" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T22:12:23.010" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T22:03:46.097" Title="what will happen if I change gears on a mountain bike at a standstill? Will it break?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18309" CreationDate="2013-11-03T01:35:31.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say, the gears weren't adjusted well, and chain drop out and brake the plastic that actually not very important. So it isn't your fault.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The real damage caused by changing gears while standing still is rub the cogwheels. So don't do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T01:35:31.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-03T04:13:50.713" Score="1" ViewCount="1445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/catalog/product/view/id/30748/s/adventure-women-s-1/category/936/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cannondale Women's Adventure 1&lt;/a&gt; that I got this spring and have been riding on local (paved) trails every weekend. I started off riding about 6 miles a weekend and recently have progressed to 20-25 miles in a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About halfway through a ride, my front derailleur seems to need adjusting, I have to wiggle the shift knob to get the chain to change gears. For example, if I'm in 1 and go to 2, I have to pull the knob slightly ahead of 2 (between 2 and 3) to get it to change. To go from 2 to 1, I have to adjust the back gears a few times, or sometimes backpedalling will get it to change (but that's hard to do on a hill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep taking it to my LBS (where I bought the bike) and they adjust it so it works fine in their parking lot, but again after riding for a few miles it's messed up again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if I'm doing something wrong in technique or if there's something wrong with some piece of the bike, nor do I know enough about what's wrong to find anything that's helpful. It can be adjusted to shift correctly, but that adjustment doesn't stay for very long.  What should I be looking for? Or, could I be somehow doing something when riding to cause this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some specs on my bike that might be relevant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifters&#xA;Shimano Revo Twist Type&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cog Set&#xA;Sunrace CSM66, 11-32, 8-speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain&#xA;KMC 8-speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front Derailleur&#xA;Shimano M191&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear Derailleur&#xA;Shimano Alivio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8483" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T15:31:24.087" Title="My front deraileur needs adjustment after every ride" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18313" CreationDate="2013-11-03T06:26:54.267" Score="4" ViewCount="7966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a LBS (there are BS, but not L), so I generally order everything I need online. I need to replace the bottom bracket on my commuter bike, which I know is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vpcomponents.com/newen/product_detail.php?id=240&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VP-BC73&lt;/a&gt; but that BB's available in sizes from 107 mm to 127.5 mm and I'm not sure what size I'll need. The bike has a 28-38-48 triple front chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicorp.com.au/ProductDisplay.aspx?Product=BBS1568118&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sunrace BB&lt;/a&gt; as the replacement, which is available in &lt;em&gt;103&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;107&lt;/em&gt;, 111, 113, 118, 122, 124, and &lt;em&gt;127&lt;/em&gt; mm lengths (italics are out of stock at my preferred supplier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious answer here is to take the BB out and measure it; trouble is, there's no crank puller or BB tool available—I'll be ordering these with the new BB. I've also tried contacting the bike's manufacturer (a bicycle chain store—I know), but they've been non-responsive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I've managed so far was an attempt to measure the distance from the outside of one crank to the other (at the BB), then remove the crank bolts and subtract the distances from the outside of the crank to the end of the bottom bracket axle. This gave a (rudimentary, at best!) measurement of 129 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can possibly order a couple of BBs and return one, but I'd really like to be able to narrow it down that much, at least. Is it better to be too long, or too short (or does it really need to be exact)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; I measured the chainline yesterday, it's 53 mm at the front (I know that's wide, but that's what it is) and 48.5 mm at the back. The rear cassette is a 7-speed Shimano 14-28.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7844" LastEditorUserId="7844" LastEditDate="2013-11-05T00:28:17.890" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T16:47:00.577" Title="Can I measure my bottom bracket size without removing the cranks?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18312" CreationDate="2013-11-03T06:56:43.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As, if not more important than length, is the chain line.  Obviously related, but enough variation to cause problems, as I found out not when I got into my own bike maintenance. Sheldon (as always) shows a way to measure chain line &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html#chainline&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The same page has  table of various Bottom brackets and the length and chain-line measurements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially you measure from the center of the chain rings (triple is easy, double measure half way between the rings) to the center of the seat tube to get your chain line. Then you should be able to match up a BB that will suit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T06:56:43.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18317" CreationDate="2013-11-03T17:26:32.703" Score="3" ViewCount="2924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have what I think is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1998&amp;amp;Brand=Specialized&amp;amp;Model=Hardrock%20Sport#.UnaC8Plwp8E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized  Hardrock&lt;/a&gt; mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, when riding on a flat surface the back wheel has a noticeable up-and-down movement with each spin. It is like ridding a horse in the merry-go-round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When inspecting the wheel spin, I don't see a side movement and can't visibly see the up/down movement, but I can easily feel it to the point that I do not want to ride the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the options and costs? Consider I am not a fix-it-yourself bike person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8535" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T20:15:07.623" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T12:09:49.760" Title="Rear wheel odd shape (goes up and down) fixit or buy new?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18316" CreationDate="2013-11-03T17:51:33.393" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your description sounds like the wheel is out of true, out of round, or some of the spokes are so loose that they're flexing as the wheel rotates. However, for it to be as severe as you describe I would expect it to be visible on spinning the wheel and watching it, even to a novice mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever the case, you should take your bike to a qualified mechanic. The problem may be fixable, possibly as simple as tightening and loosening the appropriate spokes. This is a relatively difficult job for a novice mechanic though. It is also perfectly possible that you need a new wheel. An experienced mechanic would have to visibly inspect the wheel to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a simple fix, it could be as low as $15 US. If you need a new wheel, I would expect it to be around $75-125 for a bike that age depending on what quality you would like to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also recommend checking with a couple mechanics. Some are quick to sell new parts when an older part is serviceable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T20:13:09.270" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T20:13:09.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18319" CreationDate="2013-11-03T21:24:12.270" Score="18" ViewCount="1689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that sounds like a silly question, but I really need an advise. Recently a herd appeared at my local trail. Often they block the trail, and I (being a city boy) don't know how to behave toward them. I don't feel comfortable to shout at someone who can easily brake half of my bones with a single shot, especially when there are little ones with moms. What is the right way to ask them politely to free the way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-11-03T21:43:54.853" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T14:31:26.203" Title="Should I fear cows?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;trails&gt;&lt;animals&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18318" CreationDate="2013-11-03T21:49:38.297" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question title in very short: You don't have to fear them but some healthy portion of respect won't be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer version: normally cow herds aren't really aggressive so it is quite safe to just go around the herd (if it blocks the trail) or pass them if they're close to the trail. Going right through the herd isn't a good idea in any case unless you know what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are two situations where some more caution is appropriate: mother cows that want to protect their calves as well as bulls can be somewhat aggressive. If those are present in a herd you should better keep a good distance and maybe avoid the herd by some more amount to prevent coming too close to them. Depending on the size of their meadow it may be the easiest to just avoid their meadow at all or at least forgo them by some 50 to 100 meters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-11-03T22:00:01.393" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T22:00:01.393" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-03T21:55:07.637" Score="0" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced my hubs, and not-so-recently the front brake rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In dry conditions, everything works fine, brakes well and makes almost no noise. In rainy conditions, however, the front disk tends to vibrate and make a huge, horn-like noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something wrong with my brake installation that I should fix, or is this normal? I've never experienced such behavior before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T21:55:07.637" Title="Disc brakes vibrating, &quot;singing&quot; under the rain" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-12-06T03:34:35.723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2013-11-04T02:03:10.553" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an actual bmxer who does tricks and all sorts of other things. I can give you the BEST answer on here. People with low seat usually have them like that to keep them out of the way during tricks. Imagine throwing a tailwhip and having the seat catch your foot then you don't land the trick. Kinda why. Haha. Also high fatter seats indicate they do or are learning barspins. Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8538" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T02:03:10.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-04T06:55:48.227" Score="1" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a chain tensioner, like the one in the first picture in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/3042/1621&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some research and it looks like they have different size, according to what they call &quot;dropout size&quot;. In fact, 5mm and 8mm seem to be the two most popular sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this measure refer to? How should I measure my frame to be sure that I buy the right chain tug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1621" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T17:11:23.950" Title="measure dropout to fit chain tug" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;chain-tug&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18318" CreationDate="2013-11-04T07:03:47.627" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that has not been mentioned so far. Be aware of the &lt;strong&gt;herding dog&lt;/strong&gt;. In the area where I bike (South Italy), herds are usually left with a couple of herding dogs by the shepherd. The only bad experience I had with a herd was not with cows itself, but with a dog. Since then, I pass through if there is no dog, or I wait/turn around if there is a herding dog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1621" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T07:03:47.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-04T08:25:14.587" Score="4" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own an old bike, with the old style gear shifters (levers). I have been trying to get the cable tension right. However, it seems to be getting worse. Whenever I am on a slight incline or just in a high gear on flat land the gears drop (involuntarily). Is there a certain way to fix this problem? Could it be anything besides for my cable tension? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T20:20:44.807" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T10:40:17.967" Title="When going up hills, my gears drop 2 to 3 slots. Is this my cable tension?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18322" CreationDate="2013-11-04T08:57:17.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two dimensions that matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Axle diameter. 10mm is the standard, but you'll also find models designed for 9.5mm (3/8&quot;) and 14mm axles on BMX bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dropout thickness. This is the thickness of the metal plate comprising the dropout when looked at end-on. The tensioner cups the ends of the dropout, so must be large enough to fit over them. Steel dropouts are typically 5mm thick, while aluminum frames can have 8mm thick dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, you can use a caliper to determine the dimensions precisely, but a simple measuring tape or ruler should be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T17:11:23.950" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T17:11:23.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18318" CreationDate="2013-11-04T12:56:15.453" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I read your question I had a vague recollection of reading something not so long ago about this. Have a look at this article from a UK newspaper (check out also the related articles on the page):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.telegraph.co.uk/earth/countryside/10064225/Cow-attacks-It-looked-like-they-wanted-to-kill-him.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cow Attacks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you are absolutely right to be cautious - people have been killed by cows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I live in a rural area (the New Forest in southern UK - ponies, cattle, donkeys and even pigs roam pretty much freely) and have done a bit of walking myself. I've never seen what you might call aggression, but cows can get boisterous especially, for example, if they think you're bringing them food. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bearing in mind that a cow could weigh several hundred kilos or more, if one were to bump into you, even if not particularly intentionally, you'd certainly know about it. The article is right in that when we see them at a distance we think nothing of it, but meet them close up - they are enormous and you can quite easily imagine how people get trampled and crushed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as regards what you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; do, I think you probably need to play every scenario by ear, but most of the time they won't be interested in you so as long as you proceed with caution and give them as wide a berth as possible you should be fine. Don't necessarily expect them to move for you, it'll probably be you who needs to take action to avoid them, but you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T14:31:26.203" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T14:31:26.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18303" CreationDate="2013-11-04T14:38:42.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like a standard pinch flat. If you're not familiar, Sheldon Brow explains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pinch Cuts result from hitting stones, curbs, or sharp edges of holes&#xA;  in the road surface. When the tire hits a sharp edge hard enough, it&#xA;  compresses so that it bottoms out. The inner tube can get pinched&#xA;  between the rock and the rim. Pinch cuts usually put two small holes&#xA;  in the tube. This type of damage is sometimes called a &quot;snake bite&quot;&#xA;  because the two holes look like the wound made by the fangs of a&#xA;  snake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pinch cuts sometimes ruin tires as well as tubes, but usually the tire&#xA;  will not be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The impact that causes a pinch cut can also make a dent or &quot;blip&quot; in&#xA;  your rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, I'll agree that those are rather large cuts for a pinch flat, but the alignment/position strongly suggests that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T14:38:42.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2013-11-04T16:51:28.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Major reasons for repeat punctures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bad luck. Punctures happen, sometimes several may occur over a short time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tube installation. Ensure you haven't pinched any part of the tube between the tyre and the rim causing a pinch flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thorn/nail/spikey thing in tyre. After your last puncture make sure you check the tyre carefully for anything that might have got stuck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor quality/worn tyre. High quality tyres (gatorskins are widely acclaimed) can greatly reduce the change of punctures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding style. If you are a heavy person and ride with much of your weight on the saddle you are more likely to get a puncture. It is good to absorb bumps with your arms and legs and be lighter on the bike reducing the shocks on the wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T16:51:28.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18330" CreationDate="2013-11-04T21:55:38.883" Score="6" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a 3/32&quot; chain from Prophete, and despaired in the attempt to close it. The complex end of the chain looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eaHiu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of the Prophete chain link&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, at first thought, the slight groove (the one where you can peek the Euro sign) looks designed to take the bolt, and then pressure during riding will close the link. Unfortunately, the open part of the link is too short for the bolt to fit. Whenever I slide the upper part over the lower part, I have to bend it slightly, and the bolt misses the groove by half a bolt diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How in the world should I assemble this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2353" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-11-05T07:52:19.277" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T07:52:19.277" Title="How are Prophete chains with built-in locks assembled?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18329" CreationDate="2013-11-04T23:36:50.670" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to move the open end of the posts closer together so you can pop that plate into place. To do that, bend the chain sideways at that master link to get it to close. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a bit of technique, but it's not too hard to close (opening it again often requires three hands - the extra one to lift the plate off. Sometimes the plate will pop off if you bend the chain a bit further, sometimes not). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the slotted plate so it's over the post ready to close. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold the chain with one hand each side of the master link with the slotted plate towards you. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull your hands apart slightly so that the chain is straight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now bend the chain so the master link moves away from you (and the open end of those posts get closer together). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might take a couple of attempts but it can be done (the chain-bending is the same way I push chain into chain tubes on my recumbents, when I can't life the recumbent to get the tube vertical)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T23:36:50.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18316" CreationDate="2013-11-05T01:58:40.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check to see if the tire is going up and down or the rim, or both.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rim, then all the advice from others holds and you need to have someone start checking spoke tension, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the tire that is out of round and not the rim, it could either be that the tire is not seated well (perhaps it went slowly flat and when it was re-inflated it was not seated correctly), or it could be an internal failure of the tire.  Particularly with mountain bike tires that have some age on them I have seen the tire start to come apart - on the inside it kind of looks like a tear and on the outside it just looks like a bump or bulge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if the tire is not seated correctly, you need to let the air out, seat it evenly and re-inflate.  If the tire is failing, you just need a new tire.  You may be able to do either of these yourself - depending on your skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8543" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T01:58:40.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-05T09:51:52.293" Score="7" ViewCount="4712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a big expert, so forgive me if I use some terms wrong (especially because I'm not a native English speaker). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a MTB with V-brakes. I wanted to tune the rear brake because it looked like the pad were working asymmetrically (with the right pad being closer to the wheel). What I noticed, though, is that the whole brake tends to &quot;move&quot; to the left, where the noodle is. If I pull the whole brake to the right with my hand then pull the lever, the right arm gets pulled while the left one stays almost in place; when I release the lever, the right arm stays in place and the left one gets away from the rim. After that, pulling and releasing the lever seems to affect only the left arm - with the right pad staying quite close to the rim, to the point that the wheel is always braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, if I understand it correctly, the brake arms should look like a V ( \ / ) and become parallel when pulled ( | | ); instead mine look like this ( \ | ) when released. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has fourteen years and a couple of accidents on its shoulders (one affected the rear wheel, but I had it repaired at a shop, and AFAIK the rear brake was unaffected). Is this problem due to bad tuning? How could I fix it? Or should I forget about it and get a new brake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8547" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T11:39:14.833" Title="V-brake seems asymmetrical" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18332" CreationDate="2013-11-05T11:39:14.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please do the following experiments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Release the brake cable, pulling (1) apart from (2) (no tools needed). Swing the brake arms one at a time, making sure they have nice spring-y reaction the last 2-4 centimeters of their travel towards the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the movement feels &amp;quot;rusty&amp;quot; and the swingarms don't readily return, there is mud and rust inside the breaks. Replace them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RtUda.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now check if both push back with the approximately equal force, when at equal distances from the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If one arm pushes back significantly more than the other, the coarse setting is wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the brake cable still disengaged, squeeze the brake lever a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is any resistance, or if the cable looks rusty, it should be oiled/replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the brake arms are pressed against the rim, the brake shoe should rest fully against the rim (in contrast with only half the pad touching the rim or touching the tire). If this is not correct, the brake shoe can &amp;quot;latch&amp;quot; when pressed, sticking to the rim by friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most probably the brakes and cables are rally old. You can disassemble those parts, wash them under pressure, let them dry and re-install them, or you can replace them with more modern parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T11:39:14.833" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18316" CreationDate="2013-11-05T12:09:49.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also have bent the rear axle. That is also not expensive, $10 maybe, but the rim will need to be trued as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided that you are &quot;not a fix-it-yourself bike person&quot;, you should have a LBS that you trust, to turn to in such cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T12:09:49.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18251" CreationDate="2013-11-05T14:25:16.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heel clearance is more of a pannier issue than a rack issue (as some noted in the comments). Most high quality panniers have adjustable hooks you connect to your rack, and you can usually shift the hooks to provide sufficient heel clearance. This is something you should more take into account when buying panniers. Good examples of brands that allow you to set them up to provide heel clearance are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.de/p-liste.php?ptyp=radtasche&amp;amp;lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ortlieb&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vaude.com/de-NL/Produkte/Bike/Radtaschen/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vaudé&lt;/a&gt;. Both are rather high-end, but they are also nearly 100% water proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your comment about racks collapsing: If all you carry in your panniers is whatever you use during a workday this shouldn't be an issue for the first few years of use. I have had racks break, but only after cycling thousands of kilometers on all types of hard surfaces with full camping gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any specific rack advice. I always just buy whatever the nearest bike shop to where I am is selling. I have good experience with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cordo.com/?pag=8&amp;amp;cat=16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cordo&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/racks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;topeak&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boryueh.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bor Yueh&lt;/a&gt; rear racks and lowriders. Always the models mounted to at least the axle, I've never tried any of the seatpost mounted models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T00:22:04.367" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:22:04.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18324" CreationDate="2013-11-05T15:52:39.080" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others have commented this and it is the likely cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With friction shifters the position of the lever is held by the screw that holds the lever in. When pressure is exerted on the drivetrain the chain tries to drop down the cassette, only being prevented from doing so by the rear deraileur which in turn is held by the cable tension of its shifter. If the shifter screw has loosened a bit the force from the chain will overcome the deraileur, pulling on the shifter cable, and shift down by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's simply a case of tightening the shifter screw to a degree that it's still comfortable to shift but won't be pulled out of position. It should feel pretty stiff when you shift but not so much that have to put much effort in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my old peugeot racer I found myself tightening the screws every month or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T10:40:17.967" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T10:40:17.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18251" CreationDate="2013-11-05T16:54:19.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For racks, I think it usually helps to use a rack with a lower rail for the panniers to clip onto, separate from the top plate. This can allow the panniers to be positioned further back. Plus they have a lower centre of gravity, so will have less effect on handling. Plus it keeps the panniers out of the way of the top of the rack, so easier to attach luggage on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example of this is the Tubus Logo. Though it is expensive, probably excessive for commuting. Cheaper options would be something like the Racktime Tour-it (also made by Tubus), or the Topeak Super Tourist DX, or Tortec Expedition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T16:54:19.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18340" CreationDate="2013-11-05T19:43:52.113" Score="11" ViewCount="2156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just stupidly dropped my helmet on the floor from a quite high distance. I know (or rather, heard of) that motorbike helmets must be inspected in such cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the same for bike helmets? How can I tell if it is still safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T18:44:39.467" Title="My helmet had a bad fall. Is it still good?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18339" CreationDate="2013-11-05T19:49:38.840" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bhsi.org/replace.htm&quot;&gt;BHSI.org&lt;/a&gt; says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Did you drop it hard enough to crack the foam? Replace.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For starters, most people are aware that you must replace a helmet&#xA;  after any crash where your head hit. The foam part of a helmet is made&#xA;  for one-time use, and after crushing once it is no longer as&#xA;  protective as it was, even if it still looks intact. Bear in mind that&#xA;  if the helmet did its job most people would tell you that they did not&#xA;  even hit their head, or did not hit their head that hard. And the thin&#xA;  shells on most helmets now tend to hide any dents in the foam. But if&#xA;  you can see marks on the shell or measure any foam crush at all,&#xA;  replace the helmet. (Helmets made of EPP foam do recover, but there&#xA;  are few EPP helmets on the market. Yours is EPS or EPU unless&#xA;  otherwise labeled.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can also crack the helmet foam or damage it by dropping the helmet&#xA;  on a hard surface. The cracks may be small and hard to see, so you&#xA;  need to look carefully. Cracks in the foam always require replacement&#xA;  of the helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may be reluctant to replace a helmet that looks almost as good as&#xA;  new, but if you did hit, you don't want to take chances on where you&#xA;  will hit next time. If the foam is cracked under the thin shell, it&#xA;  will be more likely to fly apart in your next crash. Many&#xA;  manufacturers will replace crashed helmets for a nominal fee, and most&#xA;  will also inspect crashed helmets to see if they need replacement.&#xA;  Call them if you are in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T19:49:38.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="790" CreationDate="2013-11-05T20:07:47.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to ride every day straight through winter when I was in college.  The problem with suspension bikes is that the suspension freezes up at cold temps.  It doesn't even have to get below 0 for this to happen.  You need to replace the lube with all synthetic lube if it doesn't have it already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8550" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T20:07:47.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-05T21:26:20.647" Score="1" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a mid-80's Puch in great condition, and I replaced the original front wheel (steel) with a newer, aluminium one. But after the switch I have noticed that it doesn't brake as well as before. What could be the problem? Do the brake pads need some time to &quot;break in&quot; i.e. to align with the rim surface better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to note, it's the old style caliper brake, the pads can just be moved up-down and I aligned them well with the new rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-11-05T21:32:59.030" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T00:43:25.347" Title="Poor braking after rim change" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18342" CreationDate="2013-11-06T00:43:25.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminium rims should give superior braking performance, as mentioned in this answer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3322/steel-vs-aluminum-wheels&quot;&gt;Steel vs. Aluminum Wheels&lt;/a&gt;) and this blog (&lt;a href=&quot;http://simplybike.wordpress.com/2010/09/29/steel-vs-aluminum-wheels/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;steel vs. aluminum wheels&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the shape of the rims and how the brake blocks make contact. If the brake blocks are not in full contact then you will need to adjust them. See also @Batman's suggestion. That could involve further vertical adjustment of the blocks. Make sure the blocks are adjusted to be as close to the rim as possible without touching when the brakes are not applied, so the maximum braking effort can be applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check whether the calipers are moving as the pressure is applied (avoid riding the bike for this, if you can, because of the obvious danger). Because of the better grip the blocks get on the aluminium rims, it could be the old calipers are not rigid enough for the new job required of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If further adjustment and gentle riding does not rapidly improve the situation, invest in new brake blocks. After that, welcome to the expensive world of upgrades: new brakes, new cables, new ...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T00:43:25.347" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18324" CreationDate="2013-11-06T09:38:01.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try to change shifting cable(s); both the inner cable (wire) and the outer casing. Just a tiny amount of friction here will mess up gearing - and that might very well be the case if your bike is old and has not been maintained or serviced for a while. Use a proper cable cutter if you need to cut the outer casing and round the hole after cutting so it is a perfect circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8421" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T09:38:01.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18346" CreationDate="2013-11-06T14:23:42.907" Score="10" ViewCount="17061" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have a disk-compatible hub and frame, but want build a wheel based around a very specific touring rim, which is labelled as being for rim brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that you cannot attach a rim brake to a disk-compatible rim, since the sidewalls are not designed to withstand the stresses. However, it is not obvious to me whether there would be any problem attaching a disk brake to a wheel with a non-disk rim (assuming that it's been built around a disk-compatible hub, and is attached to a disk-compatible frame). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some problem with this configuration? The obvious drawback would be carrying around the extra weight of a reinforced rim, but that doesn't seem to prevent the wheel from actually functioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T21:58:26.987" Title="Is it possible to mount a disk brake hub to a rim-brake rim?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18345" CreationDate="2013-11-06T14:32:01.670" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no problem mounting a disc-compatible hub to rim-brake compatible rim. Just make sure they've got the same number of spokes and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're absolutely right about the opposite though, disc brake rims generally do not have a braking surface on them, the rim profile is round there, so it wouldn't work. And if you did try to brake on it, it a) wouldn't work well and b) would probably cause excessive rim wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you could do, if you want to be flexible and switch back and forth is to get a dual-duty rim that supports both, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/tires-and-wheels/wheelset/wtb/dual-duty-fr/prd_365952_157crx.aspx&quot;&gt;WTB Dual Duty FR rims&lt;/a&gt; (probably a bit beefy, but you get the idea).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T14:32:01.670" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-06T15:17:46.750" Score="2" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest good turbo trainer workouts (or tell me what features are necessary) for training for a long distance cycling event (Vätternrundan ~300 km)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to be fit enough to cycle that distance but also need to get my raw pace up because of a tough target time (8 hours requiring about 40 km/h [in a group of 28 riders]) - what sort of drills should I be doing (or what should I avoid) to increase stamina and power efficiently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T10:53:54.217" Title="Turbo training programs for long distance events" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18347" CreationDate="2013-11-07T07:10:33.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The next Vätternrundan is in approx eight months. My suggestion is - get mileage in. 300km isn't so hard to ride if you're okay with say 150km, i.e. can ride that two days in a row without excruciating pain or soreness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed you mention is a whole different matter. If you haven't ridden these kinds of speed on shorter distances yet, it &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; get tough to get up to par. My suggestion would be to not go for the Sub9 group on your first Vätternrundan. It's simple as that. Nothing is more frustrating than falling out of the time frame 25km from the finish line. The Vätternrundan for &quot;normal people&quot; has far, far bigger timeframes; I believe the slowest group needn't ride faster than 25km/h on average, which is no problem for most amateur riders, especially in a group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T07:10:33.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18347" CreationDate="2013-11-07T10:53:54.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turbos are great for short interval work, brutal power workouts (cf. the comment above citing sufferfest.com) where you can monitor your output and heart rate more accurately. But they are dull, mind (and body) sappingly dull. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd save the long workouts for the road, it's more interesting and you've got mates to chat to and spend time with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the turbo for working on the raw pace, short (60-90 minute) pieces with shorter, harder threshold pace intervals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T10:53:54.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18345" CreationDate="2013-11-07T16:17:38.483" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one thing to be aware of is that disk brakes put more force on the spokes during breaking than rim brakes. Mostly this is not an issue as long as you do not use radial spoking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you build up the wheel with 3x and anything but super silly light spokes, it should be no problem at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T16:17:38.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-07T20:26:22.757" Score="2" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a fairly old Dawes Discovery 301 (not sure of the year); earlier today I took it to a shop to have a replacement bottom bracket fitted. I rode it 2 miles home, and noticed a slight intermittent skipping feel and noise from the chain which hadn't been there previously. I didn't stop to investigate until I got home as both the noise and the feel seemed &quot;minor&quot; (learning point for me there). When I did, I found that one link on the chain had one side detached with the pin sticking partway out; the eyelet on the detached side is quite bent. I'd attach a photo but my camera has apparently stopped working. It's not an easy-open link or anything else fancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concluding that the chain's been re-fitted badly. I plan on returning to the bike shop (not riding the bike!) and asking for a new chain to be fitted free of charge. I can clearly see the lettering on the links saying it's a KMC Z40, which I'm guessing is discontinued because I don't get any relevant-looking hits on a search. It's on a Shimano CS-HG30-81 cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is my plan reasonable, or is it well-known for older chains not to re-attach well? I've measured the chain to look for lengthening due to wear (per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclinglife.com/HowTo/ChangeAChain.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclinglife.com/HowTo/ChangeAChain.htm&lt;/a&gt;) and I believe it's at most 1/16th out at the 12-inch mark, so I'd say it's worn but not excessively so. The cassette doesn't &quot;look&quot; terribly worn either. I acquired the bike recently-ish from a relative so can't be sure about its previous use history, but I don't think it was massively punished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2a) If 1) answers &quot;yes&quot;, is there any specific type of chain I need to ask for? I ride on roads most days and on light off-road trails on occasional days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2b) If 1) answers &quot;no&quot;, please can you advise on an alternative strategy? I recognise this is subjective and calls for opinions, but I'd be interested to see what others think is reasonable in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used this shop before and always believed them to be reputable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8557" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T22:42:14.820" Title="Suitable remedy for chain damaged by bike shop" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;damage&gt;&lt;best-practice&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18351" CreationDate="2013-11-07T20:42:41.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no need to detach the chain to change BB. I don't believe that the shop will give you warranty in this case. Therefor the answer question 1 is no.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There is no need to replace the whole chain. Usually replace of only 2-4 links will solve the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T20:42:41.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18635" CreationDate="2013-11-07T21:13:04.697" Score="4" ViewCount="2020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 80s cyclocross frame I am restoring. The fork's cantilever bosses are spaced at 55mm - much narrower than the modern standard (around 70mm I believe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to fit a pair of Tektro CR-720s, but despite using thinner pads and removing the spacers cannot get the pads to square with the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a set of modern cantilevers (preferably wide profile) alternative to Mafacs that they known to work with this narrow spacing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hopeful the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diacompe.com.tw/product_View.asp?nid=988&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dia Compe GC-999&lt;/a&gt; might do the trick as they seem to be based on a traditional design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also e-mailed Velo-Orange and Paul Components as I thought they had cantilevers that would match, but they claimed theirs don't work at this narrow spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4364" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T15:12:44.457" Title="Cantilever brakes for older narrow fork bosses (55mm)?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18351" CreationDate="2013-11-07T22:29:29.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Alexander is right, there is no need to break a chain when you replace a bottom bracket. So your hypothesis doesn't make complete sense, unless maybe they were doing other stuff to the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you do take the bike back to the shop, odds are that that's their response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know if I got myself a new (second-hand) bike, I'd think about replacing the chain almost automatically. Same as something like brake pads. Just so you know where its come from, plus they're cheap enough its almost a no-brainer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the looks of that cassette its an 8-speed, so you just need an 8-speed chain (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kmcchain.eu/?en/products/multiple_speed/8_speed_derailleur/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kmcchain.eu/?en/products/multiple_speed/8_speed_derailleur/&lt;/a&gt;). Really common, any bike shop will have one. If you decide to buy off the web and fit it yourself (easy enough, just need a chain tool, which is an invaluable tool to have in any case), actually KMC is a decent brand to go for anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-11-07T22:42:14.820" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T22:42:14.820" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18345" CreationDate="2013-11-08T00:21:31.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc brake hubs are dished almost equally left/right. You will want to make sure your road/touring rim is not an asymmetric rim, designed for dishing on one side and not the other. This Ritchey Girder is an example:&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bDt8l.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T00:21:31.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-08T00:31:08.120" Score="3" ViewCount="1486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I‘m a heavy (260 pound) male rider using my 2011 NORCO 24 gear hybrid to commute to and from work. It’s a 6 mile trip each way with a +450 foot climb in the last 2-3 miles coming home. The ride is all on hard surfaces with an occasional curb. I have ridden this commute about 80-100 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been having issues with the rear-shifter and chain. Also with spokes on the rear rim. Started with the rear-shifter breaking off but despite three visits to the dealer’s shop and one to a different place, new cables, replaced spokes and so on I still have problems. After a couple of rides the spokes rattle and the gears go out of sync. The issues with the gears seem to happen when going up the hills (when I assume the most pressure is on the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&#xA;If I assume the two repair shops are competent then what might be causing the gears from going out of sync 3-4 trips after I get them adjusted? What’s causing the spokes to loosen up? I suspect the strain on the bike climbing (taking in mind my weight).&#xA;What type of bike would be appropriate considering the combination of climb and level riding plus the weight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer some questions and some further info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you mean by &quot;the gears go out of sync&quot;??:&#xA;The gears don’t correspond to the setting I have. I gear but see the chain hasn’t moved. I might have to switch back and forth before I get the desired setting. Chain falls off the gears. There is also a lot of creaking and groaning (and not from me!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you change the gears while climbing / fast pedaling?&#xA;Not so much while fast pedaling but definitely while climbing. It’s not a steady climb so I try to gain as much speed as possible and then drop the gears fast while climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;have you replaced the chain and rear cluster yet?&#xA;No. I probably need to change the chain. There is a chink in the chain after the last fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m ready and willing to replace parts if required. However if the cost start mounting I wonder if I’m better off getting a more robust bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the great suggestions and ideas! &#xA;Since it’s a rather spread and open question I can’t really pick any one as best but I wanted to post one final question and my action plan:&#xA;I will go back to the dealer and replace the chain and rear rim with higher performance items, plus have the bike overhauled. Think his mech is competent but will insist on talking to him directly. So yes – I intend to extend the life of my NORCO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my type of riding – paved roads, occasional curb, hill climbing… is the hybrid the ideal bike-form?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8558" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-12-25T02:12:30.837" LastActivityDate="2017-12-25T02:12:30.837" Title="Does weight and climbing cause strain on bike?" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;&lt;hills&gt;&lt;heavy&gt;&lt;clydesdale&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18356" CreationDate="2013-11-08T01:00:31.673" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spokes and gears are likely unrelated issues. &#xA;You have done 2000km on the bike - have you replaced the chain and rear cluster yet? At you weight and those hill climbs, I would not be surprised if they are just worn out. It is also possible that at your weight and that distance the spokes have come out of adjustment, and/or now have fatiguied to the point of breaking or stripping threads on the nipples. I would also be checking for a broken axle and the bearings not being adjusted properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike shops should have picked up all these issues, however, are they aware of the distance you are riding? Many such bikes do 50 miles a year and they may be servicing it based on that assumption. It is a mistake to presume that any LBS is competant, servicing is and art and a passion, and (putting it politely) some mechanics are better than others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What to do - ask around for recommendations on bike shop. If you are comfortable, take it back to one you have used, but make sure you let them know how much use the bike has had. Talk to the mechanic directly, don't be fobbed off by front counter salesmen (And walk out if you cannot get access to the mechanic). Ask him to measure the chain and check the cluster and chain rings. Check the spokes/bearings and axle. Be prepared to replace parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T01:00:31.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18356" CreationDate="2013-11-08T14:42:26.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have two separate problems.  I'll comment on the spoke breakage, speaking as someone who's had trouble with rear wheels in the past.  Bike wheels are surprisingly complex.  Essentially if you have a wheel that's been perfectly built, with the spokes at a high and even tension, it should stay true for a long time, without any spokes loosening on their own.  Most wheels are imperfectly built but are good enough as long as you're using one appropriate to your weight and riding style.  A quality 36 spoke wheel can support someone much heavier than you without spoke loosening or breakage, but unfortunately you're more likely to see issues than a lighter person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What essentially happens is that, once spokes start to loosen on a wheel you can have a cascade of problems.  A spoke that is under low tension will tend to loosen itself more as you ride. Spokes under very low tension will tend to break quite quickly from fatigue, and spokes neighbouring loose spokes will pick up additional stresses.  So a single undertensioned spoke can end up causing multiple spoke breakages if it's not caught early enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are some spokes loose in the first place?  Most of the time wheels are built with spoke tension at the low end of acceptable (it takes a lot more time to get them to a high tension and true them), and with slightly uneven spoke tension.  You also see problems with spoke windup, where spokes are twisted and untwist as soon as you ride the bike.  You see this when less competent/careful mechanics true wheels.  If a wheel makes lots of pinging noises when you first ride it, you should carefully monitor that wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can you do about this?  Well, prevention is the best cure: have wheels that have high and even spoke tension, and are appropriately stress relieved before riding.  If you've ridden a wheel with broken/loose spokes for a while, it's more of a headache since additional spokes may be close to failure from fatigue.  Essentially you need to replace the bad spokes as they break, and keep a close eye on the wheel for trueness and loose spokes - that needs to be addressed promptly to avoid the same cascade of failures.  Before replacing spokes, you can try to &quot;stress relieve&quot; your current spokes by grabbing sets of four spokes and pulling apart with your hands.  This can break any that are near to breaking already, and will reduce the chances of others loosening later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T14:42:26.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-08T15:05:54.197" Score="2" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my first time adjusting a threaded headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After thoroughly cleaning, inspecting and greasing the bearings, I attempted to re-assemble the headset. The piece is interesting in that the lower cup is somehow stuck in the frame, while the higher cup threads on the steer tube, effectively being inverted to what one would expect (i.e. in order for both bearings to be facing the cups, both bearings are seated with the separators downwards and the balls pointing at the sealing). The frame has a race face to accomodate the bearing separator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tightened the upper cup until there was no wobble (as strongly as I can by hand and then a quarter of a turn with a wrench). Then I threaded the stopnut. The latter revealed some thread damage upon inspection, and indeed does hold only until certain tightness (maybe a couple of kilograms on a 1/3 meter wrench), then &quot;jumps&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After riding the bike for a day through some road bumps and holes, the headset was loose again, visibly shaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I need a new headset, or is it more likely that I am assembling the thing incorrectly?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T23:38:08.307" Title="Threaded headset wobbles after riding" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18356" CreationDate="2013-11-08T15:53:26.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been a bunch of good suggestions so far, I just wanted to pick up on your specific point about maybe getting a new bike. This should be unnecessary - unless you specifically wanted one ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes do come with weight limits, so it may be worth checking the spec of your bike to see if it &quot;should&quot; support you. You might possibly have some leverage from the warranty point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But over and above that, I'd have a chat with your LBS. Wider tyres, stronger wheels etc. are all cheaper alternatives to a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T15:53:26.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18353" CreationDate="2013-11-08T21:09:26.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What brake pads did you try? I had a heck of a time getting modern Tektro cantis working on a fork of mine until I used Kool Stop Thinlines with the spacers set for in their thinnest configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T21:09:26.037" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18309" CreationDate="2013-11-08T21:50:28.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the bike was &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; cheap, there's nothing that would break from that.  The crunch of the chain on the rear gears and even the chain coming off are possible.  You can just pop the chain back on the gears in the back.  Over time this can cause issues, but unless you ride a lot and do this frequently, it would be a very long time.  Mountain bikes especially are meant to be tough. If his brand new bike's gears broke he ought to be headed back to that shop for a refund. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in the meantime, don't stop from messing!  Get on that bike and ride around, mess around with it!  If he did buy a very expensive new bike ask to ride his old one, or get yourself one for $50 on craigslist.  You'll learn fastest by doing, and you'll make some mistakes, but the bike will forgive you.  If you do something that makes a lot of noise, don't do it again :).  Just keep yourself safe and have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7907" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T21:50:28.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18309" CreationDate="2013-11-08T22:27:00.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The changing of gears itself is unlikely to cause any damage, you're just going to move the derailleurs back and forth until the chain prevents them moving further.  If you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; forced it you might break a shift lever or something.  However, bad stuff is likely to happen if you heavily load the drivetrain while in the wrong gear.  I.e. if you change gears while standing still then forcefully push down on the pedals when getting started, since the chain isn't on the right cog.  There's a good chance then of the chain falling off or of it getting jammed somewhere, either leading to you falling off the bike, or potentially to some damage to the bike.  With regards to your missing plastic bike: I don't know exactly what it was, but if the bike still works fine I wouldn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, your boyfriend. not you, is the fool in this situation.  Changing gears while stationary isn't that crazy.  Taking the bike and cranking heavily in the wrong gear is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find yourself stationary on the wrong cog you just need to lift up the rear wheel and turn the crank forward a full revolution or two: that should get it into the right gear.  With a little practice you can do this standing over the bike with your foot on the right pedal: lift the rear wheel off the ground slightly using your right hand on the saddle and push the crank with your right foot.  Handy if you find yourself in the wrong gear at some traffic lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T22:27:00.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-09T04:24:55.037" Score="3" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you see chains advertised, they are specifically noted to be for 11-speed or 10-speed bikes or something similar. Does this mean the they are for bikes with any front cog configuration but only 11 or 10 cogs at the back, and if so, how can that be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not understand how the rear cassette dictates the type and length of chain to purchase, when I would assume the front cogs make more of a difference in length of chain used. Am I simply looking at it wrong, am I missing something or is there really nothing more to it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastActivityDate="2013-11-10T00:13:18.947" Title="Decoding Chain Descriptions" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18364" CreationDate="2013-11-09T04:44:19.363" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The description is of the chain width. There's quite a lot of history, but the short answer is &quot;they make chains narrower to fit more gears in&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to fit more rear sprockets in without making the rear wheel ludicrously wide manufacturers have crammed them closer together. To make that work they've made the chain narrower, limited mostly by material strength (for a given cost and manufacturing complexity, anyway). One consequence of this is that front chainrings also have to be narrower, but there's enough tolerance there that you can usually run a chainring one step wider than ideal and get away with it. Running a narrower chainring than you need will almost always work, but since they're usually more expensive that's not often done (except for people running 7 speed setups where the cheap chainrings are 8/9 speed these days)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most chains are the same length when sold, with extra links discarded when the chain is fitted. Most bike shops have a bin of those offcuts and use them to replace broken links or if someone is especially poor they can stitch together a full chain out of the bits (it's very slow and many modern chains are not designed to be assembled without special joining pins). The problem is for people with folding bikes that often have longer than usual chains, as the standard size is frequently a few links sort of what they need. Recumbents obviously suffer from this to an even greater degree, taking between 2.5 and 3.5 chains. SRAM and others sell chain in rolls which mitigates this problem, but obviously you'd need to be using a lot of chain to justify buying it 100m at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_chain#Width&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has a useful description and link to more detail. Key info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 speed - 7.8mm (all brands)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 speed - 7.3mm (all brands)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 speed - 7.1mm (all brands)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 speed - 6.6 to 6.8mm (all brands)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 speed - 6.2mm (Shimano, Campagnolo)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 speed(Narrow) - 5.88mm (Campagnolo, KMC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 speed(Narrow, Direction) - 5.88mm (Shimano CN-5700,CN-6700,CN-7900)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11 speed - 5.5mm (Campagnolo, KMC, Shimano CN-9000)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-11-10T00:13:18.947" LastActivityDate="2013-11-10T00:13:18.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18356" CreationDate="2013-11-09T13:43:16.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With regard to the shifting, you do need to understand proper shifting procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, with any derailleur-style bike the chain and sprockets need to be moving when you shift.  (You're no doubt aware of this, but it bears mentioning.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to the advent of &quot;indexed&quot; shifters, it was not possible to shift &quot;under load&quot; at all.  To shift you had to reduce the force on your pedals to essentially zero (but keep pedaling) while shifting.  Indexed shifting was made possible by adding &quot;ramps&quot; to the sides of the sprockets so that when the chain is moved against a larger sprocket the projecting pins of the chain engage the ramps and the chain is lifted to the larger sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big advantage of indexed shifting is that these ramps allow, to a degree, shifting &quot;under load&quot;, such that you don't need to completely reduce force on the pedals when shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the chain pins can only resist a certain amount of force before slipping off the ramps, and if you apply too much force while shifting the chain will not shift.  &quot;On the flat&quot;, it's fairly easy and natural to reduce force a little, but when climbing it takes a bit of planning -- you have to plan to shift ahead of needing the lower gear, so you can do it when you're not applying so much force to the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-11-09T13:43:16.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-09T15:46:20.553" Score="3" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, I have two questions.&#xA;But first, I see no place to put a wrench on this hub.&#xA;Well, there is one small notch on one side on the dust cap (on the other side).&#xA;How do I get this hub apart?  It's wobbly and I want to repack it.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LuKh9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other problem, of course, is the several metal damage from my cassette.  Once I get it apart, I can see if it's possible to replace that part... we'll see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, I'm just looking for the proper procedure to get this thing apart!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8561" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T03:56:01.307" Title="How does this hub come apart?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-09T22:16:39.683" Score="10" ViewCount="4876" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fixed gear bike has a track fork with a chain tensioner, and uses Pitlock's solid axle nuts to secure the wheel in the dropout, though I had similar issues with the stock nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After tightening the nuts with a torque wrench to the 260-390 inch-pounds &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;recommended&lt;/a&gt; by Park Tools, the wheel appears secure, and will typically be fine for weeks at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inevitably however, the rear wheel slips forward on the drive side, perhaps by 0.5-1cm. This produces considerable slack in the chain, though it's usually still ridable in the short term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that this is happening under sudden braking, which I've heard can cause slippage when the nuts are insufficiently tight. Indeed, I usually notice it after having to stop sharply somewhere along the ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal, or an indication that the torque specification I'm following is incorrect? If normal, is this preventable with some maintenance (for instance, is it caused by gradual slippage?). If it's not normal, what's the cause? Are there perhaps different torque specs for a fixed gear bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="2513" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T13:32:03.340" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T09:09:53.827" Title="Is it normal for a fixed gear bicycle's rear wheel to slip forward in its dropouts from time to time?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18368" CreationDate="2013-11-09T23:49:46.077" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can be a fairly common occurrence with a fixed wheel bike. It may depend on a few different things, ie what sort of nuts you are using, how tight they are, what style of dropouts, and what the dropouts are made of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different sort of nuts may help. eg something with serrated nuts or washers could grip better. Also you may be able to tighten the nuts more, maybe a bit higher than what Park recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the best option is to use chaintugs. These fit on the dropouts, and have some sort of screw to hold them in place. So this stops the axle from moving forward. Usually you only need one, on the drive-side dropout, though you can use one on each side if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/drivetrain/tuggnut&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Surly Tuggnut&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OQ4Hs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OQ4Hs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tuggnut&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com//uploads/parts/CH9999.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;surlybikes.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T10:23:15.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18356" CreationDate="2013-11-10T18:25:54.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're having that much problems with spoke breakage on a reasonably built wheel (32 spokes 3x lacing ), then it's more than likely that your rim is bent in some fashion and the uneven tension required to compensate for the flaw in the rim &#xA;is causing spokes to break. Ask the shop to check the tension in the spokes and see if it's even[1]. If they don't know how to do this, find a different shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;260 is a lot for a light racing bike, but any reasonably built hybrid should be stout enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]- On a rear wheel, the spokes will have much different tension on drive vs non-drive sides, but it should be similar on all spokes on a side. You can sort of ball park this by plucking the spokes if you have a good ear, all the spokes should have roughly the same tone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2013-11-10T18:25:54.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-10T19:10:19.410" Score="6" ViewCount="1507" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, this is a rhetorical question that deserves to be closed as &quot;opinion based&quot;, but gotta ask.  Why do we need to have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1139319_-1___000000?utm_source=direct&amp;amp;utm_medium=email&amp;amp;utm_content=131109Sa&amp;amp;utm_campaign=product&amp;amp;cm_mmc=Email-_-Direct-_-131109Sa-_-product&amp;amp;cm_em=%60email%60&amp;amp;cm_lm=sp%3adanhicks@ieee.org&amp;amp;cm_ven=Spop-Email&amp;amp;cm_ite=131109_Direct_275BikesdoblePT%20%281%29&amp;amp;spMailingID=7095009&amp;amp;spUserID=NjA5NzA4NzQ3NDQS1&amp;amp;spJobID=178638557&amp;amp;spReportId=MTc4NjM4NTU3S0&quot;&gt;&quot;27.5 inch&quot; bikes&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you dig through the specs (they don't come right out and say), this is a 650B rim, which Sheldon quotes as being for &quot;French utility bikes, tandems, and loaded-touring bikes; some older Raleigh and Schwinn mountain bikes&quot;, and which is otherwise known as 26 x 1-1/2&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T22:59:41.820" Title="Do we really need another bike size?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18372" CreationDate="2013-11-10T19:25:42.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following up with an opinion, I believe this is simply about getting people on new bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People are willing to stay on their frames until they're broken while doing upgrades through the likes of CRC and Wiggle which I imagine offer very low return to anyone but component companies.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;29er's became stale and XC focused only in the past year have people started using them on rougher stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the science behind 27.5/ 650Bs make a convincing argument. Giant put a lot together to justify their move to 27.5s (glidepath to only that size in about 2016). There is a scientificish review here on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/650B-For-All-Giants-Elite-Level-Mountain-Bikes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PinkBike&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article and Giants move was pulled apart on this forum on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vorb.org.nz/giant-mtb-going-all-t124571.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vorb&lt;/a&gt; - on Vorb it takes a few posts for things to move past general mud slinging, page 2 gets pictures and analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've never ridden a 27.5 (my sister has one but as it's a &quot;girls&quot; bike I couldn't possibly be seen on it) and my only experience on a 29er is on a FS and I found the ride too sedate compared to my steel HT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-11-10T19:25:42.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18372" CreationDate="2013-11-10T21:17:51.577" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Again - Following up with an opinion from a self confessed conspiracy theorist. Its about the money - follow the profit tree to its roots &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there were only 26&quot; wheels a small LBS needed to have one wheel set in stock, and one sized tire ( maybe 5-10 variations). They would special order specific gear the the customer wanted and could easily stock enough to supply of the shelf something suitable for most customers most of the time.  The LBS had a range of MTB in stock - a few (maybe 10 bikes) would cover the requirements for 95% of his customers, and he would target a particular but broad market (Typically either Family and weekend riders, or 'cashed up cost doesn't matter wannabes and elite cyclists). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the small LBS needs to stock 3 wheel sizes, in disc and rim brake style (6 wheel sets). They also need about 50 different tires on the shelve. The number of bikes required to be stocked by the LBS has also increased. He needs at least twice as many on the floor to remain competitive, but that much stock will drive him out of business. This is beyond the capability of a small LBS to do and still remain profitable. Mum and Dad now need to stock 3 different spare tire and tube sizes at home (Dads 29'er, mums 26'er and sons 27.5er').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is the hype - 26'er is old, 29'er is so much better.  Followed by &quot;well, you need a 29'er for XC but AM and downhill a 26'er is better - to be a serious cyclist you have to have one of each (with spares of course). Now, we have 27.5 - So, that 29er I sold you last year really is to big, and you know that 26 so last decade, well, have I got the bike for you.... It's only $$$, but I'll throw in a discount cause you are such a valued customer.......  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In effect it is being pushed by the larger retailers, who can afford the stock level, to push the small LBS out of business. The  elite custom-builders where pricing is less of a concern will do very nicely out of it as well (No competing LBS focused on &quot;reasonable pricing&quot; will drive some people to them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The net effect of all this choice is that the cost to us will skyrocket as the competition is shut down. We won't have competing LBS that offer personal service (except those that provide for the high end market) and will have to deal with the large, impersonal chain stores. The idea of talking to the mechanic will be seen as quaint, as the salesmen run the front counter. &quot;Why talk the the mechanic, buy a new bike.... &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the changes are mostly (99.99%) profit motivated to get more bikes moving from shop shelves to unused garage ornaments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-11-10T21:17:51.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-10T21:29:08.357" Score="2" ViewCount="2049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my rear Shimano Deore derailleur since it got mangled up in an accident. I'm thinking of replacing it with a Shimano America RD-M662 SLX 9-Speed Derailleur. The bike I have is a 2013 Salsa Fargo 3. It already has a set of 9 speed Microshift bar end shifters. Will this setup work? The Microshift worked fine with the Deore, but will it work with the SLX? Does the SLX require a different cable pull than the Deore? Any help would be greatly appreciated!    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8568" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T20:27:27.957" Title="Shimano SLX Rear Derailleur with Microshift bar end Shifters" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-11T02:54:54.097" Score="5" ViewCount="1720" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought a Chris King PF30 bottom bracket and pressed it in using a bearing press along with the bushings that came with the Park Tool bbt-30.3. Using the bearing press I pushed both cups in simultaneously. Ever thing seems to fit in ok and is sitting what appears to be straight, but the cup on the drive side feels like it has some stiff spots in it's rotation compared to the other side. I'm moving the rings with my fingers, I haven't installed the cranks yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be an effect of the seals or bearings? Is that side not seated in straight? Should I knock out the drive side and try press it in again a second time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what I'm looking for to know that I did the job right, before continuing on assembling the rest of the drivetrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8560" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T03:39:04.503" Title="How do I tell if I've correctly installed a press fit bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20729" CreationDate="2013-11-11T08:01:44.660" Score="5" ViewCount="29343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bicycle frame that's really heavy. It's a mountain bike frame with shocks, so I decided to replace the entire frame with a city bike aluminum frame(I only use the bike if I have to pick up/buy some stuff near home). How do I know if the frame that I replaced is a titanium/steel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the bike as a present from my uncle almost 6 years back, I don't have an idea about the brand, it's just the entire frame is not your average frame, it's somewhat heavier than other bikes( I compared it with the aluminum frame I bought/ plus a couple of my friends bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What methods/techniques should I use to know what type of frame do I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8571" LastEditorUserId="8918" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T12:17:33.920" LastActivityDate="2017-11-14T16:16:38.167" Title="Knowing what bicycle frame material I have" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;&lt;titanium&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18391" CreationDate="2013-11-11T08:18:04.823" Score="4" ViewCount="1675" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a product out there that allows you to remove interfacing components? Like being able to remove your brake lever arm, shifter arms, pedals...etc etc easily and efficiently so it makes the get away process more troublesome for the thief? ... therefore it might deter them from taking your bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of thieves just being able to pick up bikes, but if you also had two U-locks on a sturdy pole, I would assume that this would be much more troublesome for the average thief. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess this would be more troublesome for the user... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8572" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T07:16:40.093" Title="Removing bike interfaces to reduce likelyhood of theft?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18379" CreationDate="2013-11-11T09:31:32.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get use quick release (QR) skewers for the wheels and saddle, and it may be possible to use these on your handlebars, (maybe even the front derailleur?), depending on whether the design allows for a larger nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this would help with brake levers/shifters. The part would have to be specially designed to have a quick-release cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick release pedals might be possible, but it would have to be a very reliable mechanism, given the force they're under and the consequences of losing one whilst riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I'm not sure if would be that large a deterrent. I understand that the more serious bike thief comes with a van, slings the bike(s) in the back, taking them away and selling the parts on Ebay. So a missing set of pedals would only make it marginally less attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T09:31:32.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-11T10:49:49.370" Score="4" ViewCount="605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to do as many cyclocross races as I can until the season ends in early march and the next few weeks have at least one race every Sunday for the next six weeks. How should my training schedule look like after sunday, do I focus on recovery rides and mount and dismount until 72 hours after the event? Then move into had tabata style intervals on Thursday only return to recover style training mentioned about in the, or do I do it a day before on the Wednesday and enjoy a full 72 hour recovery before race day? Or am I doing way to little?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T15:46:42.900" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T04:33:02.107" Title="what should my training schedule look like if I'm racing every sunday?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18390" CreationDate="2013-11-11T12:17:46.793" Score="1" ViewCount="5909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that when riding across loose ground such as dry mud or sandy patches with my mountain bike that the back wheel can sometimes slip and I have to stick a leg out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the typical reasons for this? The bike is new, do the tyres need some working in perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8509" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T20:48:11.177" Title="Back wheel slipping on loose ground" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18382" CreationDate="2013-11-11T13:15:52.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyres. You should change them once in a while, when the pattern wears out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrong gear, try to lower it down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not enought weight on the rear end, climbing on loose ground is always finding the balance spot between doing wheely and slipping rear wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T13:15:52.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18382" CreationDate="2013-11-11T16:26:42.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few reasons you could have a rear wheel sliding around. I'll go through them briefly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traction&lt;/strong&gt;: This sums up several different issues, but basically it means the rear tire is no longer gripping the surface you're riding on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires&lt;/strong&gt;: Moving a certain speed will cause the tire to break loose, no matter how much grip it has. The tire profile also has a strong impact on how it will react. Some tires have large knobs to assist with cornering, or small knobs to reduce rolling resistance. This goes for center tread as well, with some tires having an aggressive pattern to increase traction. Of course, smaller details like tire material can influence this as well (durometer of the rubber, mixed tread compounds, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Surface&lt;/strong&gt;: You know a car can slide around in the snow? The same can happen to a bike and not just on ice/snow. Mud, water, leaves, and sand can all cause the same thing. Tire choice can help to reduce the effects of different surface qualities, but eventually you're going to have one surface that acts differently than another.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight&lt;/strong&gt;: Push down on something enough and it becomes hard to move, even if the bottom is slippery. Similar theory can be applied to biking. This is most noticeable when climbing hills. As you shift your weight forward in the saddle (or further when standing) you take weight off the rear wheel which reduces the ability of the tire to remain in contact with the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spin-out&lt;/strong&gt;: If your getting the occasional time when the rear wheel seems to just spin in place on the ground you might be putting down too much power and exceeding the grip of the tires. This can happen on loose climbs, flats, or elsewhere. Try lowering the gear to one you can spin in (but not too low).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all that, there's also the practice of skidding/drifting by purposefully locking up the rear wheel and letting it break free. Sometimes it looks cool, sometimes it allows you to go faster around a corner, but doing it consistently requires you to know how your bike and tires will handle at different speed and varying terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T16:26:42.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18372" CreationDate="2013-11-11T16:45:44.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having ridden some of the major wheel sizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 - BMX&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;24 - Bigger BMX&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26 - Mountain Bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;27.5 - Mountain Bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;29 - Mountain Bike/Road Bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can honestly say it depends on what you want to do. I race XC on my 29er because it climbs way better than 26 and runs like a road bike on the flats, but it totally sucks in tight switchbacks due to the large turn radius (and long frame because I'm tall).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Dirt Jump and All-Mountain bikes are both 26&quot; because I can maneuver the bike a lot better. The AM bike is more on the freeride side so the components were easier to find to make it beefy for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ridden 650b on trails and found that they mix the 29er and 26er together, it climbs better than 26, but not as well as the 29. It decends better than the 29er and is certainly more playful on the trail too. However, I don't really think it's the end-all, be-all of bike wheels as I didn't jump on abadoning my other bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think it's a choice thing, where you find a bike that fits what you want to do and how you want to ride. I'd prefer that biking not become like stock car racing, where all the major pieces are the same and only the small components are different. I think that's the same reason people own two, three, or more bikes, because they don't want a bike that can do evertyhing but doesn't excel at one thing. Yeah, I can take my 150mm FS 26er on XC trails, but it really sucks in spots. Maybe the same bike with 650b size wheels would improve the pedaling parts for me, but someone else might disagree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the comments about bike shops having to carry more stuff, as that's always a challenge for any distributor, but I think the brick-and-mortar shops are becoming more of showrooms nowadays anyway. Flexibility and variability really should be a good thing as it should open up more customers that may have been unhappy with the other, current options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T16:45:44.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18381" CreationDate="2013-11-11T18:31:54.870" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there's no magic formula. A lot depends on your age and training base going into the race season. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things you need to balance: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intervals/speed workout. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Burnout/injuries. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will see the fastest gain in the shortest time doing intervals, but you also put yourself at the greatest risk for injury/burnout. Given that you're attempting a relatively long peak, you should probably treat most of your races as simply complex speed workouts and focus on a few events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the events you focus on you'll need to take a rest break to allow the training benefits you're getting to take full effect. However, you can't do that every week as you'll never see the training benefits. Learning to monitor yourself and whether you really need rest or not is the hardest part of self-coaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find the book &quot;Time Crunched Cyclist&quot; very useful. You need to establish periodicity in your schedule if you're going to make it to March. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my best guess at a schedule: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Sun- Race Day&#xA;Mon- Active Rest ( very easy 30 mins- hr )&#xA;Tues- Skills Practice ( Moderate short efforts, should be fun )&#xA;Wed- Intervals&#xA;Thurs- Intervals&#xA;Fri- Active Rest ( or day off ) &#xA;Sat- Skills Practice or fun ride ( fun should feel like lot's left in the tank after ride ) &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not a schedule you can maintain long term and it's not a schedule for an older or less trained athelete. After probably 3-4 weeks, you should take a rest week. If you ever start feeling like training is a job, then that's a good signal to take a break. Remember, no training plan survives contact with real life. Recovery is just as important as stress in achieving fitness. Near the end of your season, you should start tapering off on the speed work altogether. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to whether I know anything or not, well I've been doing endurance sports for over 40 years and I've at least learned all the wrong ways to train. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2013-11-15T04:33:02.107" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T04:33:02.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18382" CreationDate="2013-11-11T19:27:38.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you describe I would suggest that your centre of gravity is too far forward rather than anthing to do with the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was your bike fitted when you purchased it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel slipping would occur if the COG was too far forward so I would try one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving the seat back on its rails.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installing a shorter stem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installing a laid back seat post.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the first option which you can do easily at home the other two would have some cost attached and in order to get the right fit it is best to try some different options. You should be able to go to your LBS and get their advice on fitting and what changes you should make. They will probably let you try out different combinations of stem and seat before purchasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T19:27:38.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18382" CreationDate="2013-11-11T19:30:04.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you just need to get a feel for traction.  Although bike geometry and tires will affect the traction threshold, the main thing is that you need to ride within the limits of your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that managing traction on a bike isn't at all like a car.  With a car, your body is a tiny part of the mass of the vehicle so doesn't play a major role in vehicle handling.  On a bike, your body's mass is much higher than the bike itself, and your feet are directly driving the rear wheel, so your body's position, movements and your pedalling technique are all important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few factors affect traction on the rear wheel.  Tires and riding surface play a role by increasing or decreasing the threshold at which you lose traction.  The amount of your weight pushing down on the wheel also affects traction.  This depends on your position on the bike and the slope.  If you're going uphill out of the seat with your weight forward, for example, this unweights the rear wheel significantly.  Acceleration and braking forces also play a role.  If you brake hard with the rear wheel or accelerate hard, you transmit a lot of force through the tire to the ground.  When accelerating in poor traction conditions, you want to make sure that your pedal stroke is as smooth as possible to avoid spikes in pedal force.  Cornering also plays a role, producing lateral forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really need to get a feel for how much traction your bike gives you on different surfaces: then you know how hard you can corner/accelerate/brake without losing grip.  You can improve this with technique: for example by moving your weight back to increase weight on your rear wheel, or by easing up on braking or acceleration through tight corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T19:30:04.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18382" CreationDate="2013-11-11T20:48:11.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an in-depth article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tomjstokes.com/2010/09/21/choosing-a-mountain-bike-tire/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mountain bike tires&lt;/a&gt; by Tom Stokes. From the section on tread patterns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The tread pattern and knob locations can provide insight into how the&#xA;  tire will handle, but these are very difficult to read. Trying a tire&#xA;  out for a few days is the only way to truly know how a tire will&#xA;  handle, but there are a few guidelines you can use to judge a tire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Tread patterns with lengthwise-overlapping knobs will have a lower&#xA;  rolling resistance because they maintain a smoother contact between&#xA;  the road and the tire as it rolls &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Knobs with ramped leading edges in the center of the tire have a lower rolling resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Widely spaced knobs will shed dirt and mud better at the expense of higher rolling&#xA;  resistance &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Knobs with channels cut through the center have more edges&#xA;  and therefore grip more, but wear faster than solid knobs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Patterns with a large gap between the center knobs and side knobs can require&#xA;  more leaning in corners to get a solid bite but grip better under hard&#xA;  cornering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, at the end of the day, as Rivendell Bicycle says in their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=58&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Learn About Bikes&quot; knowledge-base&lt;/a&gt; -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can buy tires for every kind of soil imaginable, but it's better&#xA;  to ride a moderate knobby and learn how much to trust it in a variety&#xA;  of conditions, than to ride a different tire for every type of soil,&#xA;  never learning any tire's capabilities really well, and then blaming a&#xA;  crash or washout on the tread pattern, or your tire choice for that&#xA;  day. It's your job to learn what the tire can't do, and then don't do&#xA;  it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8574" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T20:48:11.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18379" CreationDate="2013-11-12T01:59:34.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nycewheels.com/dahon-technologies-mks-pedals.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;quick release pedals&lt;/a&gt; (some folding bikes use them) with the advantage that the mount point left behind is too small to effectively pedal on. Pedals are also small and relatively clean if you carry them with you, so this works fairly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZfsN.png&quot; alt=&quot;quick release pedal&quot;&gt;&#xA;(MKS Ezy quick release pedal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commonly people with concerns like yours will install a quick release seatpost bolt and take the seat with them instead/as well. But seats are large and the seatpost is often greasy or dirty, so I am not a fan of that approach. Re-setting the seat height every time is also annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other awful thing people often remove for security is their front wheel. It's even bigger and dirtier than the seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some not-quite-folding bikes are designed to be taken apart easily. Bike Friday, for example, and anything using S&amp;amp;S couplings. You could conceivably take one of the smaller pieces with you every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more extreme variant is simply to remove parts and leave them off. Many fixie riders claim that people won't steal a fixie because they're hard to ride, for example. Riding a unicycle can be an extension of that idea... people won't steal a &quot;bicycle&quot; that has one wheel, no gears and very few valuable components, and that they can't ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few types of bike thieves, and you need to deter them in different ways. The lazy thief who just wants transport can be deterred by almost anything (bike locked with any non-trivial lock); the opportunistic/unorganised thief who will steal anything easy and hope to sell it quickly, for whom you just need a decent lock and use it to attach your bike to something solid; and the professional or organised thief, for whom nothing short of a security guard will do as long as your bike is worth stealing. Both steal-for-sale thieves will also steal components off your bike (as will other cyclists who don't think of themselves as criminals). Normally only the easily removed parts like wheels or pumps, but I've had brakes and handlebars stolen off my bikes in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A general solution is to take everything of value off the bike and replace it with cheap crap. That's a junker bike and they're very popular for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T01:59:34.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18372" CreationDate="2013-11-12T11:40:54.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;27.5&quot; bikes were introduced after manufacturers found out that they can not produce 29ers with optimal frame geometries for small riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering one of strong sides for 29er vs 26er - tire contact patch, 27.5er is closer to 26er, so no big gains there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is plenty of marketing information and very little actual research available, so one has to be really careful when reading various manufacturer claims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T12:12:42.683" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T12:12:42.683" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18368" CreationDate="2013-11-12T12:53:43.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another potential cause of your problem might be your axle being wider than your frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had that with an old steel framed road bike and a new wheel and it was subtle enough that I didn't notice, but my LBS pointed it out when I complained of a similar phenomenon.  If that's the case you may be able to cut the axle down to fit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually avoided that and simply found a different skewer since this was a QR axle that seemed to be able to cope better with the frame/axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T12:53:43.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18368" CreationDate="2013-11-12T14:39:00.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest that you recheck the torque at regular intervals. If the torque is less than it should be then the nut is working loose somehow. This could be due to vibration, dropout material expanding/contracting with heat/cold, meddlesome kids, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution might be to use a threadlocker - a weak glue to stop parts from vibrating loose. The recommended type for bicycle use is blue. I believe you can also get a red type which is stronger, but it might mean you need power tools or heat to undo the thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2019-03-04T09:09:53.827" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T09:09:53.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2013-11-12T22:08:07.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to see it is that while crosschaining is not that big of an issue with nowadays components (this has been confirmed to my on this very forum), the extreme cross-chainings are not very pleasant (noise, not completely smooth pedaling and so on,...).&#xA;On the other hand, the second-to-last cog is very usable most on most (double) transmissions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, with a 11-25 cassette, you can ride on &quot;small-ring&quot;/12 rather than &quot;small-ring&quot;/13 like you can on a 12-25 cassette (regardless of whether the &quot;small ring&quot; is 34, 39 or anything else).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same time, the 11 cog is not useless either as it can be used in downhills or sprints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you are sure with your extreme gears usage, having the tightest possible cassette is better: I could rephrase your question and say: &quot;why would one buy a 12-25 cassette when you can have a 12-21 which will allow faster speeds and has smaller gaps (actually almost none)?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to that is actually the only right answer to your initial question and that is that your cassette must reflect what kind of rides you intend to use it for? loaded touring? flat racing? moutain racing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T22:08:07.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2013-11-12T22:15:59.753" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;An 11-tooth cog is significantly less efficient than a 12-tooth one, even without the increased wind resistance at that speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the following in depth article &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;On the efficiency of bicycle chain drives&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T22:15:59.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-12T22:35:30.473" Score="1" ViewCount="920" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently running a pair of clip-on aerobars (Syntace C2) on my long distance touring bike. I've set the aerobars up quite high, as for me they are not so much about the aero-part (though it still helps when battling strong headwinds), but mostly about giving my wrists some rest and a change of posture. So far, I really like them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I feel like I could benefit from a bit more reach when riding on the flat bar, so I'm thinking about changing out the stem for a slightly longer one with a bit less rise. This is where the trouble starts, since that would bring the aero's way to far away from the saddle. In fact, they could already benefit from a slightly shorter stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus it seems like a double stem setup (such as some TD racers use) would solve this problem. 1 short stem up high for the aero's, and 1 long stem for the flats. However, the part of the steerer which sticks out is only 68mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any suggestions for stems with a very low stack height (&amp;lt; 35mm) would be appreciated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it be safe to run a double stem setup with conventional stems (with stack height of, say, 40mm). The lower stem would grab the steerer tube full-on, but the upper stem would stick out for 10mm or more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something like this (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sirenbicycles.com/fred-bars-shipping/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;) would help a lot, but they seem to be out of production. Does anyone know of an alternative?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perhaps someone has a different suggestion?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6023" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T22:49:10.260" Title="Combining flat bar and aerobar: Double stem setup or alternatives?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12469" CreationDate="2013-11-12T22:59:59.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally never use my 12 cog: even sprinting I can go faster in the cog maybe one or two down.  I tend to naturally ride at quite a high cadence (often over 100 rpm) even when cruising, live in a fairly flat area, and I'm just an average rider who isn't going to do an average speed faster than 30kph over any reasonable distance.  For me, filling in gaps in the gear range is more important than having top end speed.  Even when I've ridden in hillier areas I find bike handling is more of a limitation on descending speed than my gear ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T22:59:59.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18398" CreationDate="2013-11-13T00:23:59.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A previous question regard rim and disc brakes had &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/rohloff-phil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link...&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially use a long steerer tube and mount two handle bars on the bike. Mount disc and rim brakes so you also have brakes on both handle bars (although you could one set of brakes off two levers.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: (The original Link now broken so I have now linked to a Sheldon page (which still has the the broken link) in hope they restore it.) and attached the pic (although too small to be really useful) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2cEKq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T22:49:10.260" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T22:49:10.260" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18404" CreationDate="2013-11-13T01:38:32.947" Score="7" ViewCount="6744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie and I plan to buy cycling computer for my bike with 29&quot; x 2.1 wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it all cycling computers can fit on any wheel size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to buy Cateye Micro Wireless MC100w or Cateye Velo 7 online. Does them fit my 29&quot; x 2.1 wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8578" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T19:12:45.747" Title="Cycling computers fits on any wheel size?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-13T01:45:36.553" Score="2" ViewCount="1058" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this &lt;a href=&quot;https://shopping.howei.com/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;path=119&amp;amp;product_id=1010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Koolstop Road Pad Holder and Brake Pad Set&lt;/a&gt; compatible for folding bike ? My bike is  using Dahon Speed P8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8578" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-12-13T21:24:07.640" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T22:18:25.290" Title="Koolstop set compatible for folding bike?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18401" CreationDate="2013-11-13T02:03:22.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every bike computer you'll ever use has some initial setup where you choose the units, set the time and enter either a wheel size or circumference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cateye's take a circumference and there's a handy chart in both manuals to help you choose one, or you can measure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cateye.com/images/manual/CC-MC100W_ENG_v4.pdf&quot;&gt;Micro Wireless&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cateye.com/images/manual/CC-VL820520%20HP_ENG%20v1.pdf&quot;&gt;Velo 7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T02:03:22.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18401" CreationDate="2013-11-13T02:09:15.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Cateye &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/CC-MC100W/moreinfo/&quot;&gt;CC-MC100W&lt;/a&gt; site, it supports &quot;Tire size： 100mm～3999mm&quot;. The Velo 7 supports 100cm～299cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;29 inch * 25.4mm/inch * 3.14 = 2313mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So both computers will be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &quot;tire size&quot; in this case means outside circumference rather than diameter. Sheldon Brown has an exhaustive discussion but the easy way to find out is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cyclecomputer-calibration.html#rollout&quot;&gt;roll out test&lt;/a&gt; (pick a mark on the floor, roll the wheel a complete revolution, measure)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-11-13T08:29:13.240" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T08:29:13.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18402" CreationDate="2013-11-13T07:05:43.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://dahon.com/mainnav/folding-bikes/single-view/bike/speed_p8-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dahon.com/mainnav/folding-bikes/single-view/bike/speed_p8-1.html&lt;/a&gt; your bike has direct pull (a.k.a V-brakes). Your brake shoes should have threaded studs with spherical washers. There isn't really a point in getting a set with a holder given how often brakes on a folder would have to be replaced and the price difference, but Kool Stop does make V brake refills and holders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need the Kool Stop Mountain (a.k.a bmx) threaded salmon's or threaded thinlines (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolstop.com/english/mountain_pad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.koolstop.com/english/mountain_pad.html&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolstop.com/english/thinline.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.koolstop.com/english/thinline.html&lt;/a&gt;). The ones you linked will not fit (they are for caliper brakes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threaded thinlines may be a better option since they give a bit more room (they're a bit thinner). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you asked this question, some help with installing the brake pads may be useful:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/linear-pull-brake-service-v-brake-type&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/linear-pull-brake-service-v-brake-type&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(And the back of the package the brakes come from)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2013-11-13T07:25:19.703" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T07:25:19.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-13T11:29:53.810" Score="1" ViewCount="1245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two Specialized Langster (one brand new 2013 model (54 cm) and the other a couple of years old unique London model (52 cm)) - both are single speed. Got sick of getting punctures on my daily commute so on Monday I got Durano Plus 700x25c tyres - the bike shop owner said go for 25c as the 23c is good but for daily commuting he would recommend 25c - he did acknowledge you will go slightly slower but not that you will really realise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, he was wrong and I have realised! Anyway, the problem is the London model seems to be a lot slower then the the one - both are slower now but the London one lot more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am able to really pedal the heck out of the London one but it just does not seem to go too far I know I can pedal more but there is no need as it just does not cope to go further (hope I am making sense as it is hard to explain!). Could it be the chain is just not good enough on the London model then the other bike? Or something else - there is nothing much else I can think of as it just has one chain and no gears and stuff - except for the new tyres??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One point - the chain is painted (as it is a unique London model) so could it be that? I only bought the London model two weeks ago and am only now riding it around now for my daily commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6138" LastEditorUserId="7118" LastEditDate="2013-11-13T21:11:20.453" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T21:11:20.453" Title="slow bike...is it the chain?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18413" CreationDate="2013-11-13T11:56:29.747" Score="2" ViewCount="2009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I measured my chain last night - 10 links were 25.8-25.9 cm.  So I ordered a new one, tools and spare link pins (Shimano 8-speed HG).  I'm thinking this amount of wear might explain why my least favourite gears feel and sound not quite right, while the ones I use the most are fine (i.e. the favourites are worn with the chain).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new cassette isn't much money, but changing the cassette makes for a much bigger job, and I'd have to buy the tools.  As it is, it's the first time I'll have fitted a new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike probably has 2000-2500 miles of mostly tarmac, just enough dirty stuff to get grit everywhere, taking ~100kg up some reasonably steep hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The difference between my question and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/9158/7309&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; is that the old question doesn't say anything about amount of stretch (though the answers there would tend to suggest the bigger job)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: I finally got the chance to get a photo in daylight.  I don't like the way the chain is sitting (at the top) on the sprocket it's meshed with, though the 11 and the 32 are better than I thought -- I overlaid the image of the teeth of the 28 (little used) on the 32 (works quite hard sometimes).&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q40Eo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T01:50:20.773" Title="Chain really quite stretched, should I change cassette at the same time?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18407" CreationDate="2013-11-13T13:52:52.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference between 23c and 25c will be pretty much imperceptible (there's some argument that wider tires at the same pressure are faster up to a point anyway).  You will notice more of a difference between correctly inflated tires and underinflated tires, but even that shouldn't be enough to make the bike feel sluggish unless they're extremely and obviously underinflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also unlikely that the chain is adding any significant friction: they're extremely efficient when properly lubricated.  It should start making metal-on-metal squeaking noises well before you start feeling significantly increased drag from the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the tires would have involved removing the wheels and resetting the chain tension.  On a single-speed an overly taut chain could cause some of the symptoms you described, including increased resistance. Sheldon Brown gives a good description of the issues around chain tension: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also help to diagnose the problem if you check that the wheels are spinning freely: if you lift the wheel off the ground and give it a gentle spin, it should rotate freely for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T13:52:52.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18408" CreationDate="2013-11-13T14:13:24.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, the smallest cog looks worn and the 2-3 only a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be a nice way/moment to teach yourself to ride in high cadence (by avoiding those gears, which you have been obviously abusing)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T14:13:24.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16527" CreationDate="2013-11-13T17:05:53.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used an old chromo handlebar section to make a layback seat post and used it for one winter of riding without problems.  I only weigh 155 pounds and my riding was slow and smooth as it is mostly on ice.  I have since replace the handlebar seat post with a real layback I found in a junk shop. I only replaced it as it fit, looked better and was cheap. Never even thought about the handlebar breaking, which now seems so obvious I wonder how I missed it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8583" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T17:05:53.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18407" CreationDate="2013-11-13T18:54:08.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One note is that the gearing is different, assuming they're still stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Specialized Langster London has a 42t chainring and 16t cog, the 2013 Langster has a 48t chanring and 17t cog.  With 700x25 tires that means they are 69.6 and 74.6 gear inches respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What that means is that spinning at 100rpm, you're going ~22mph on the Langster and only ~20mph on the London.  So it will feel slower when you're trying to go flat out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T18:54:08.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18408" CreationDate="2013-11-13T23:30:29.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to tell is simply to install the new chain on the cassette. If the cassette is worn from the old chain, it will skip when you apply a decent amount of pressure (standing up will usually do this in your big ring and half way down your cassette). If it does jump, you'll need a new cassette. It's really as simple as that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be surprised if you need a cassette. The lower model cassettes are made of steel and don't wear easily. (My current cassette, a Shimano 6700 is now 12,000 miles. I change chains about as often as you did and I do keep it well lubed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may notice a bit of noise when you change chains. I notice this also and it usually goes away after some mileage. If not, you can always try adjusting your rear derailleur a bit to see if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T23:30:29.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18408" CreationDate="2013-11-14T01:50:20.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cassette looks worn to me. The best indicator that a cassette is worn is that the teeth are asymmetrical. Check out Sheldon Brown's site for a detailed discussion about &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain stretch and sprocket wear&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no magic ratio that if a chain is worn x amount, the cassette will be worn too. There are too many factors involved, the material that the cassette is made out of, whether you're a masher or a spinner, what gears you ride in the most (smaller rings wear more easily), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have guessed, it is likely that your favorite gears have stretched with the chain and that's why you're noticing some problems on the gears that you use less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Rich mentioned, you can install a new chain and see if it skips. If it does, you definitely need a new cassette. If it doesn't, you might be able to get away with that one for a little while longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as Pete mentioned, replacing the cassette is not a large job. I personally find replacing the chain to be more frustrating because the dang thing wants to fall off. As far as the tools go, I'd buy a cheap tool kit similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_524452_-1___&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. But shop around, you may be able to find a better deal. I didn't dig too much. Whatever you find, it's not going to have the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; tools, but they'll certainly be good enough to get you started and keep you going for a long time. I bought a similar one about 15 years ago and still use many of the tools. In fact, it contains the only chain whip and cassette tool that I own to this day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T01:50:20.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18416" CreationDate="2013-11-14T11:43:03.913" Score="2" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2013/archive/trek/slash_7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slash&lt;/a&gt; and it came with &lt;a href=&quot;http://bontrager.com/model/11644&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bontager XR4 Ellite&lt;/a&gt; tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same evening at the park I had a puncture. Turned out the offender was a thorn to the sidewall (I rode through some cut off and now dry bushes and tree stems).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to ride the bike over snow, ice, mud, sharp rocks, large round rocks, road, but mostly trails, that can sometimes have sharp stones or thorny plants. And wound NOT want to patch both my tubes every time I go through some strawberries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am considering moving to very heavy tires, e.g. Scwalbe's Big Betty or Wicked Will. Would this mitigate my concerns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, the current tires and rims are marketed as &quot;Tubeless ready&quot;. Maybe it would be a better bet to move to tubeless setup? But then, why didn't they sell the bike in TL configuration, if that would be better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not ride at competitions. My goals are to be able to ride to the top of the mountain without lagging behind my friends, and then enjoy the descent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-11-14T12:49:05.233" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T14:44:40.590" Title="Can heavy tires handle anything that the trail can offer?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18415" CreationDate="2013-11-14T12:46:20.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would this mitigate my concerns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Heavier and downhill specific tires are more capable of handling the roughness of the trail. Downhill specific tyres are usually &quot;double ply&quot; which means that they have thicker sidewalls which prevents cuts from sharp rocks and are resistant to snake bites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Maybe it would be a better bet to move to tubeless setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubeless will save you from 99% of thorn related punctures. It will also save you from 50% of snake bites (pinch flats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(the percentages given are from my own experience)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But then, why didn't they sell the bike in TL configuration, if that would be better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure whether companies ever do that. Tubeless is messy and sometimes hard for the end user. Also, the standing juice inside the tyres may dry out after a couple of months, which will allow air to escape and make the brand new bike look bad on the store's exhibition (flat tyres).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T12:46:20.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18415" CreationDate="2013-11-14T14:44:40.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I certainly feel your pain about having to repair tires all the time. I've been stuck 10 miles from the trail head with a cut in a tire that caused me to constantly stop and add air as I limped back (second tube of the day).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigger, beefier tires will help, but if your plan is to make it up the hill with your friends and not be totally gassed then I wouldn't recommend full DH tires. I switched out my rear on my AM rig from a 2.35 to a 2.5 and boy does it chug when laying down the power. On the other hand, I can point it downhill and not even worry about it, and the grip is fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For good, all-around trail tires check out something in the 2.35-2.4 range that's made for All-Mountain/Enduro as these usually have thicker sidewalls and harder rubbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for going tubeless, that will certainly help. The sealant will handle most of the punctures that you're likely to get, but I have heard of folks getting numerous punctures that have slowly bled the air from a tire. The problem with tubeless when riding more aggressively and on harder terrain is burping, where the tire briefly comes out of contact with the rim and you lose some air pressure. No amount of sealant can prevent that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bottom line recommendation is to go with a split tube/tubeless setup. You can hit everything from fast XC trail to full on DH and be covered in the case of punctures and big hits. Sure it's a little heavier, but you won't be running big huge tires either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T14:44:40.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18422" CreationDate="2013-11-14T15:56:27.840" Score="12" ViewCount="41071" Body="&lt;p&gt;When putting a new tire on a bicycle, there is usually a note somewhere on the sidewall showing the direction the tire is supposed to rotate when you are on the bicycle.  However, the last time I changed my tire I already had the tire mounted on the rim and inflated before I remembered to check for this marking, and it turned out I had it backwards.  Rather than take the tire off and do the whole thing over again - or leave the tire to rotate &quot;backwards&quot;, I opted simply to put the wheel on backwards, as it was the front tire and there did not seem to be anything dictating which side of the bike the quick release had to be on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden about 20 miles so far without any issues, but I am wondering, what, if any, are the long term consequences of either this approach (riding with the tire backwards from the standpoint of the rim being backwards with respect to the quick release being on the opposite side from the back tire), or simply riding the tire in the opposite direction as labelled on the tire.  For the latter, I am wondering if it really makes any difference, because in my case I had to really search for the direction indicator as it was barely discernable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm riding a road bike (touring geometry) and the tire itself is a long-life, hard casing type, as opposed to soft &quot;performance tire&quot; types which get flats more easily but are supposed to handle better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T18:02:43.503" Title="What are the consequences of riding a bicycle tire backwards?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-14T15:58:52.363" Score="1" ViewCount="983" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running disc brakes on my cyclocross bike with semi-metallic brake pads.  I find that I'm constantly having to keep my rotors cleaned off to ensure optimal performance.  I'm used to my mountain bike which uses sintered metal pads, and still works well in muddy / dirty conditions without needing excess maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I considered buying new brake pads and swapping them out. However, If I do that, will the new metallic pads work well with the rotor that has been bed-in using the semi-metallic (part resin) pad?  Do I need to get new rotors or do anything to bed in the rotors again with new pads? Would it be any different swapping from sintered to resin based pads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T04:44:48.107" Title="Can I swap Semi-Metallic brake pads for Sintered Metal Brake Pads?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18418" CreationDate="2013-11-14T16:07:29.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't think of an actual physical problem this would cause.  Most folks run the lever on the QR on the left, but that's just convention as far as I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want you could just unscrew the nut end of the QR and flip it around, then your tire would be going the 'right' way and the QR lever would be on the correct side as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T16:07:29.577" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18418" CreationDate="2013-11-14T16:29:04.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long term consequences are doubtful. From my mountain biking experience, mounting a tire directionally backward just hurt your traction as it wouldn't clear mud/operate as designed, but once it was returned it worked properly, and it didn't hurt the tire any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T16:29:04.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18418" CreationDate="2013-11-14T16:33:03.890" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a road tire, i.e. a slick, it makes no difference. The tire direction marks are usually printed on road tires because mechanics are so used to looking for them, that the makers may as well put them on there so as not to confuse or waste the time of the installer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#direction&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#direction&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T16:33:03.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18418" CreationDate="2013-11-14T19:04:57.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some nearly-slick tires with small grooves designed to channel the water.  If you put them on the right way, the water tends to spray in a low arc.  It turns out if you put them on the wrong way, the water tends to spray up more.  I found this out the hard way: I was sprayed in the face continually during a commute after it rained.  This is irritating but only an issue if you ride on wet roads without fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other slick tires don't seem to have grooves like this.  I assume they put the direction indicator on the tires regardless for people who like to be sure they're putting the tire on the &quot;right way&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are right that you can flip the front wheel either way on the front without issue (unless you have disc brakes, obviously).  The convention is to have the quick-release on the left to match the rear, but there's no functional reason to do that.  You can also flip the front wheel without flipping the quick release by removing the QR skewer and inserting it the other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastEditorUserId="8307" LastEditDate="2013-11-14T19:13:44.483" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T19:13:44.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18426" CreationDate="2013-11-14T19:43:24.103" Score="11" ViewCount="2722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a longtime runner who has never, I mean NEVER, had any running-related injury before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 2 1/2 months ago, I started bicycling to my new job, about 5 very up-and-down, stop-and-go urban miles each way, a significant increase over my previous job where it was 1 mile each way, flat, and no traffic lights. I took a couple of weeks off of running to let my body adjust to the increased bicycling and then started up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've started having such bad knee pain that I can't run more than a mile. It only hurts when I run, and starts about 5-10 minutes into the run - it is a painful stiffness on the outside of my right knee. When I stop running or do other exercise, the pain goes away. I talked to my brother (who at one point studied to become a PT) and he said it sounds like runner's knee. So I got a foam roller and started rolling out my IT band 2-3 times a day, and it doesn't seem to be making much of a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's my question: it seems like this is related to my new bicycling routine, since that's the only lifestyle change I've made. I am eager to hear if anyone else has dealt with a situation like this and how they were able to start running again. I do wonder if it could be related to my bicycle technique, or just in general the fact that my ride is so hilly and traffic-y. Or anything else that I haven't thought of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People who don't bicycle just don't get this one - so I'd really love to know if anyone has some thoughts on this. I'm supposed to be running a marathon in March! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8303" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T17:31:06.790" Title="Can bicycling cause runner's knee?" Tags="&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2013-11-14T21:46:15.293" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Wikipedia entry for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iliotibial_band_syndrome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Iliotibial band syndrome&lt;/a&gt; suggests that some of possible causes may be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inadequate warm-up or cool-down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive up-hill and down-hill running&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Positioning the feet &quot;toed-in&quot; to an excessive angle when cycling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://triathlon.competitor.com/2013/04/training/it-band-pain-stretches-treatment-and-prevention_74117&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;IT Band Pain Stretches, Treatment And Prevention article&lt;/a&gt; suggests &quot;Having a properly fitted bike can help triathletes who suffer from ITB impingement while riding&quot;, and gives other advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: This old &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/273/8273&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; may be useful also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;because it's such a short ride, maybe you are not warming up enough before you start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bike fit, despite your confidence that it's ok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gearing: if you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to stand on the hills for long periods, then you need lower gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;stop riding now&lt;/strong&gt; while you find the cause and find the correct treatment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go to a specialist bike shop and get you, your bike, and your position (including foot position) checked, so that the fit is confirmed to be good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get lower gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;get medical advice&lt;/strong&gt;. I like to see a physiotherapist for this kind of thing. Find one who is really into sports injuries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;depending on the medical advice, do some strength work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when you resume riding, make sure you warm up thoroughly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when riding hills, use the lower gears so that you spin more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: and I should add &lt;em&gt;I am not a medically trained person&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T14:07:28.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2013-11-14T23:01:07.660" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your commute is as up and down / stop and go as you say then I would suspect your knee problems are similar to mine. I've found through practice, and a few quick minute of research just now, that keeping your cadence (crank rotations per minute) high will help you keep from straining your knees on your ride; especially where you are making many stops, and always heading up hills, you should try to be conscious of how fast you are pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the opposite issues previously as well. I had a utility bicycle with three relatively high(ie. easy) speeds. I am not one to coast along, so on that bicycle I found I would be pedaling faster and faster. Going down hills I'd be spinning my legs so fast that I would hurt my knees, so there is that to consider as well. If you have anything to measure your cadence then I'd recommend trying to stay between 75-90rpms. If not then just be mindful, and make sure you aren't on a gear that you need to pedal hard opposed to fast; try and balance the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should note that I do not run, I only cycle. If I walk for maybe an hour or so with a load on my back, I tend to get some pain in my knee. Also if I ride for more than 50km I tend to also get the same sort of pain. The longer I go the worse it gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had spoken with my Doctor about it, he told me to cycle more often and for just slightly shorter periods. To work up the strength of the tendon that was causing pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Andy mentioned however, you should definitely speak with your own Doctor about the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8589" LastEditorUserId="8589" LastEditDate="2019-11-20T17:31:06.790" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T17:31:06.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18467" CreationDate="2013-11-14T23:02:34.543" Score="6" ViewCount="4197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear full sun protection when I ride, including sunglasses and a tube wrap around the lower half of my face.  The issue I have is that in cool weather the wrap tends to channel air from my lungs up through my sunglasses which then fog up.  This is mainly a problem only when climbing hills, as at all other times there is sufficient air flow from my speed to keep my lenses free of fog. Fog obviously obscures my vision and is a safety problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At bit of research shows many different anti-fog solutions, including soap, shaving lotion, and special liquids made just for anti-fog.  The problem is, I have not been able to get a clear answer as to whether any of these are safe or suitable for cycling.  The anti-fog liquids seem geared towards things like swimming and diving, as do most of the reviews.  Some of these products list sunglasses as a possible application, but do not say whether they are safe to use given the many sensitive types of coatings some sunglasses already have applied.  In fact, several places I have read claim one should not use certain types of anti-fog coatings as they can affect the plastics in the sunglasses or the anti-reflective coating - it is hardly worthwhile to reduce fog if creates a new problem of reflective glare or the glasses falling apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I'm not asking for a recommendation on eye wear &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14109/need-cycling-eyewear-but-fogging-is-a-big-problem&quot;&gt;as this post is doing&lt;/a&gt;.  I already have eyewear I am committed to using, and just want to know what anti-fog solutions (if any) are safe in terms of not degrading anti-reflective coatings, polycarbonates in the glasses, or the plastic in the frames.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also already know the trick of breathing out through my mouth and don't want to use this as a long term solution as it makes my throat very dry in a short period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: After extensive additional research I have come across a product called &quot;FogTech&quot;.  The company claims that the product &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motosolutions.com/PDF/IndustrialFAQs.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;contains proprietary self spreading water absorbers dissolved in a very special carrier that can wet plastics... The unique carrier evaporates immediately leaving a transparent micro-thin coating of Fogtech...&quot; and further claims that it is completely safe to use even if the lenses have special coatings&lt;/a&gt;.  The only downside is that it is very expensive - as much as $3 for a single application.  Any first hand experiences with this product would be welcome - how well does it work, and more importantly, how long does an application last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T21:20:45.763" Title="Sunglasses anti-fog solutions safe for cycling" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;glasses&gt;&lt;sun-protection&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18428" CreationDate="2013-11-15T04:16:44.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is &quot;they are probably safe&quot; and &quot;they don't work for spit&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skiers have exactly this same problem with ski goggles and what I have learned in 50 years of skiing is that if the goggle has an built in anti-fog coating, cleaning it with anything but a mild soap will ruin what minimal anti fog coating &#xA;it has. Sunglasses generally don't have much in the way of anti fog coating. I tried everything I could find and it was all a huge waste of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have found that has largely fixed the problem for me in skiing is two things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wear a helmet. ( this probably doesn't apply to bike helmets, but ski helmets do a lot to keep the moist warm air from your head away from the goggles. )&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change your jacket. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I switched from skiing in a Goretex jacket to a jacket that actually breathes (soft shell) 99% of the goggle fogging problem disappeared. Anything that is a vapor barrier just funnels all the warm moist air from your body directly up into your face. The only WB fabric I've found that comes anywhere close to venting well enough to use with aerobic sports is eVent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying this to your situation, you need a face mask that breathes better. Either that or one that some how seals to your face at the top. There is no magic goop that will prevent fogging, the only solution is to keep the moist air away from the glasses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you give up attempting to keep your current sunglasses from fogging, you might try a pair of these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZxqTq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Casco Nordic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xcskistore.com/casco-nordic-spirit-ii-white-nordic-ski-eyewear.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.xcskistore.com/casco-nordic-spirit-ii-white-nordic-ski-eyewear.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are very expensive, wierd looking, but they are by far and away the most fog resistant eyewear available. I've used them biking and for all kinds of skiing and  they just don't fog up ever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2013-11-15T04:28:43.613" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T04:28:43.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18431" CreationDate="2013-11-15T09:12:04.380" Score="6" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not talking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3634/mountain-biking-how-to-ride-in-mud&quot;&gt;swimming in mud&lt;/a&gt;. Just a damp trail or even wet pavement - and some modest speed - and the front tire function switches from steering the bike to throwing mud precisely directed at the rider's face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without protective gear, the mud and gravel projectiles hit the eyes at unpredictable moments and the chance of loss of steering is significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With clear sunglasses, the lens become stained in a couple of minutes and impair vision. I am reluctant to brush them with my glove as I reckon this would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be not very effective, only transforming the mud droplets into a solid film of mud and sand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scratch the lens badly after several tens of scrapes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do downhill riders cope with this? Does the full-face helmet protect the mask in some way? Do they apply &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tashev.bg/shop/product_info.php?language=en&amp;amp;idarticles=1316&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;anti-water coating&lt;/a&gt; on the mask? Do they install some hardy front fender? Or do they just live with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfwTlTxhbG0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2011 Megavelanche&lt;/a&gt;, the guy has the camera behind his mask. It got only several drops of dirty water during the entire race, regardless of him riding through snow, mud, water, dirt, gravel. How is this possible, and why do my glasses look like shit when I am touring over asphalt and it rained yesterday?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T07:36:51.990" Title="Coping with mud in the face" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;glasses&gt;&lt;protection&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18430" CreationDate="2013-11-15T11:36:16.180" Score="14" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do downhill riders cope with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moredirt.com/photos/84240.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;front fender&lt;/a&gt; or with a mud guard such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://reviews.mtbr.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/neoguardxc_1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With goggles which use &lt;a href=&quot;http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/products/4186/photos/8703/s1600_Iris_DH_white_01.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;disposable tear off lenses&lt;/a&gt; or the ones with a reel of fresh len material which is pulled via a string or &lt;a href=&quot;http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb7841870/p4pb7841870.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;via bluetooth or something&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the full-face helmet protect the mask in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do they apply anti-water coating on the mask?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do they install some hardy front fender?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In really muddy conditions it's almost mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or do they just live with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody likes mud in their eyes or mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T07:36:51.990" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T07:36:51.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18437" CreationDate="2013-11-15T14:57:10.357" Score="3" ViewCount="1883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road/commuter bike (Specialized Tricross) I use for commuting daily in New York City.  The roads here can be quite harsh, with everything from leaves and branches to glass and potholes.  The roads here gave me plenty of flats on the stock tires, so I replaced them with 28mm Continental Ultra Gators, and haven't had a flat since.  I already have full coverage fenders with mudflaps on, and they've been very helpful on rainy days.  Now winter is approaching and I'm wondering whether to swap out the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rode in winter here last year, so I'm familiar with the challenges, but I'm not perfectly satisfied with how my current setup performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issues are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About 60% of the time it's really no different from the rest of the year, just colder.  A significantly heavier or knobbier tire would slow me down on these days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About 10% of the time you get flurries or light snow that doesn't stick, and the smooth tread on my tires makes turning a bit dicey, but otherwise manageable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About 10% of the time there is some fresh snow on the ground, and turning can be very challenging, but going straight is fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About 10-15% of the time there is older snow on the ground, mixed with patches of ice.  I am able to proceed in a straight line at a slow and steady pace, about 10-12 MPH, occasionally getting off for steep hills and sharp turns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5% of the time conditions are such that it is completely unrideable, and I end up walking the bike home if I happen to have ridden it to work in the morning.  I will often avoid riding in the 10-15% conditions mentioned above to avoid being faced with these conditions later in the day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need a completely new bike for the winter (or should I just take transit 20% of the time), or will putting on different tires help?  Another possibility would be to buy a new front wheel with a very wide tire, and switch out wheels on bad weather days.  Has anybody tried this out?  Would I be OK with a smooth tread on the back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastEditorUserId="4785" LastEditDate="2013-11-15T17:52:40.300" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T20:22:07.683" Title="What tire should I put on my road/commuter bike to prepare for a New York winter?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-15T17:11:20.277" Score="0" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Holux 260 Pro last year but it fell off the bike on very first day, due to faulty clamp. Sending it to the company for replacement is very costly(&gt;50% of the device cost) so it's been lying around for over a year.&#xA;Except for the broken screen, the device is fully functional. I can't use it normally as the screen is totally damaged. Anybody having some good ideas to put it to a good use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8594" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T22:55:42.967" Title="How can a GPS with damaged screen be put to use?" Tags="&lt;diy&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18434" CreationDate="2013-11-15T19:30:00.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally find that skinny (e.g., 700x23) tires cut through light snow really well, and actually have better traction than thicker tires that can sit on top of the snow. You do have to be careful on turns, but it's just like driving in the snow: you go a bit slower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigger tires with knobbies on them work better with thicker snow. Basically, the thicker the snow, the bigger and knobbier you want your tires to be. That's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/2279/4239&quot;&gt;overgeneralization&lt;/a&gt;, but it cuts to the heart of the matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you buy a whole new bike with frame clearance for larger tires (possibly &lt;a href=&quot;http://fat-bike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;much larger&lt;/a&gt;), there will always be a point at which the snow is simply too much for your bike to handle. That's actually something that's worth considering since winter weather is hard on bikes. And the salt, sand, and cinders that cities tend to treat roads with is even harder on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that you might consider is buying a second wheelset and installing your snow tires on those. It is much easier (provided that your rim widths are the same or you have discs so you don't have to adjust the brakes) to swap out a wheelset than it is to change your tires. Especially if you find yourself needing to do it at the last minute, as I often do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the only tire that will give you traction on ice is a studded tire. It's probably not practical though given that you wouldn't be using it a significant amount of time since you shouldn't use them when it's not icy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T19:30:00.967" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18434" CreationDate="2013-11-15T21:40:53.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle_de_en/themes/city/winter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Continental&lt;/a&gt; makes road-specific tires for winter commuters. They rely on rubber compounds formulated for cold, slick conditions as well as specially shaped treads designed to get a grip on icy and slushy pavement without extreme lugs. They also offer a lugged tire with traction studs, though the tread may be too aggressive for your taste. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/studded&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suomityres.com/winter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nokian&lt;/a&gt; also make studded tires, Schwalbe's Winter and Marathon Winter have a much less aggressive tread than the Nokians, and comes in a variety of road and MTB sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8574" LastEditorUserId="8574" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T20:22:07.683" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T20:22:07.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18434" CreationDate="2013-11-16T01:07:03.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say you've got a small apartment that can't accommodate two bikes, but how about two sets of wheels?  The only thing that can deal with ice is studded tires, so for those 20% of the days that include ice, you need studded tires.  Your Tricross should be able to accommodate such wheels, so it would simply be a matter of changing wheels rather than buying a whole new bike or using transit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for those days it seems okay in the morning but turns into an icy day in the evening, all I can suggest is paying careful attention to the weather guessers and guessing conservatively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T01:07:03.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18463" CreationDate="2013-11-16T02:14:01.233" Score="13" ViewCount="3425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently was involved in a wreck, because I was unable to slow my trailer. I am thinking about building a refit kit to install brakes on a trailer, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8597" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-12-25T18:43:31.810" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T15:28:23.820" Title="does anyone sell bicycle trailers with brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18440" CreationDate="2013-11-16T05:10:48.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of a commerically made one, I suspect the barrier is liability issues (and possible legal issues in some places). FWIW, the limits in Australia and New Zealand are the same as for any other vehicle, so the main restriction is that the trailer can't weigh more than the towing vehicle (note below). Other jurisdictions may have different rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar questions have been asked here before:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18235/hitch-for-a-cart-for-braking&quot;&gt;Hitch for a cart for braking&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1256/how-to-make-a-cargo-trailer&quot;&gt;How to make a cargo trailer?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two basic ways to do this. Either have brakes on the trailer activated by a lever on the bike, or make some kind of inertia brake. Having a direct lever is very simple and intuitive for the rider, but you may find yourself limited by the length of brake cables you can buy (it's possible to buy the wire on a roll and fix the endcap yourself, but annoying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An inertia brake is somewhat harder to build, but very effective. You need the towing arm to telescope somehow, so as the trailer pushes forward on the towing vehicle you have a small movement that you can use to apply brakes. I built a four wheel trailer that worked like this, and just used cheap V brakes on the trailer. That was sufficiently effective that I didn't bother with anything more complex. The drawbar was square tubing, with a bracket at the overlap holding one end of the brake cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major caveat is that neither of those solves the real problem. Once you're sliding along the ground in front of the moving trailer, neither of those will help slow it down. In theory you could grab the brake lever and use that, but in practice you're likely to focus more on getting out from under the trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preferred solution is to use a bike with two rear wheels, either a four wheel bike or a delta trike. That way you're less likely to fall off it and you can have the trailer apply downforce between the rear wheels to help with traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit: note that the default limit is actually the unloaded mass of the towing vehicle that the total trailer mass has to be under, so most bike trailers fall well outside that limit. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/personal_transport/light_vehicles_pdfs/MR_25_Lt_Vehicle_Towing_Trailer_Regs__GVM_4_5_tonnes_or_less_.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a PDF&lt;/a&gt;. What saves the situation is that if the manufacturer specifies a limit that applies instead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T20:37:23.560" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-16T12:37:20.620" Score="1" ViewCount="1863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was having a real trouble finding a suitable rear rack for my bike, a Cannondale Trail 6, with disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual bike use is to the office (bag containing laptop, lunch, rain jacket, etc. with approx 7-8 kg. weight), but sometimes I do take my bike outdoors, which may or may not require a rear rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my expectations from the rack are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to remove them when not needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something that goes in the rear wheel hub (in the quick release notch), not something attached to the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To take on 12 kg. weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easily installable and serviceable by me. :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please suggest some options. TIA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8598" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T13:19:44.750" Title="Rear Rack for Cannondale Trail 6 with Disc brakes" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18436" CreationDate="2013-11-16T22:55:42.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd figure out the key combinations to start and stop recording, and enable .gpx track recording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could then plug it into a computer and extract the .gpx files, and then use tools to play with them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gpsvisualizer.com/&lt;/a&gt; will let you upload the file and view it on a map&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gpxdataanalyzer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gpxdataanalyzer.com/&lt;/a&gt; is a site I wrote that will analyze the file and return some analysis on it if you pick an activity (Flying, Driving, Hiking, etc.) I should probably add bicycling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any number of tools (including the Garmin software that comes with their GPS units) that will allow you to visualize the data 'off device'.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T22:55:42.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18428" CreationDate="2013-11-17T09:28:51.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may also consider cutting small holes in your neck tube just front of your nose. This will provide an easier channel for the air to follow, forcing it down instead of up into your eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a breed of ski masks that do the same thing, and one that comes to mind is made from neoprene, so it is quite warm. They might not be quite to your taste, but check out these (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skimaskcity.com/neodanna-ski-masks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.skimaskcity.com/neodanna-ski-masks/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that I've noticed lately in my own riding is that long-ish hair that covers over the top of the glasses increases fogging. I don't know if it applies to you, but I know I need a hair cut!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T09:28:51.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18450" CreationDate="2013-11-17T18:56:59.883" Score="3" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is this trail around my location. Half of it is a rock garden. The stones are similar to the picture below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elevation is not extreme - one can ride uphill, at the lowest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike has 160mm front and rear travel. It actually goes over any of the stones without help from my side :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my problem. When I try to descent over them (at some speed) there are times, when the front tire &quot;steps&quot; on the &lt;em&gt;side&lt;/em&gt; of a stone, then slides down (and because, unlike the picture, the stones are watermelon-shaped, this is easy, there is no flat &quot;top&quot; to step on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the rear end is moving forward, this attempts to turn my handlebars to the side and throw me from the bike. Both times this happened, I regained control, but the look of the &quot;landing&quot;, should I fail the third time, discouraged me from descending at joyful speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look really difficult, the stones are arranged at a flat pathway, and the slope angle is not steep at all. &lt;strong&gt;What should I do to learn to handle those front tire slips on the side of a rock?&lt;/strong&gt; Or how should I prevent them?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4hCeM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T09:51:00.820" Title="Garden of stones, that are similar to watermelons" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18447" CreationDate="2013-11-17T19:37:04.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all it is better to try to prevent such front wheel slips than having to react to them. That means in first place you should try to ride a line where you reduce the chance to hit a stone in a way that your wheel could slip sideways down. The following hints will serve a bit of both purposes – riding a smooth line &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; giving you a better reaction on such slips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overall principle is &quot;Get ourself light on the bike!&quot; The rougher the terrain gets the less hard should you clench on your bikes handles and pedals – unfortunately this is some kind of counterintuitive as normally if things get rough one gets more anxious and tries to control this by fastening ones grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;So what do I mean by &quot;getting light&quot;?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most important is getting your center of gravity a bit backwards to remove some pressure from the front wheel. It is quite complicated to exactly specify the amount as it depends a lot on your normal riding position and on how good your feeling for slight shifts of your center of gravity is. What certainly can be said is that &quot;far back until your chest hits the saddle&quot; is way too much, it should be more like &quot;point your buttocks back a bit&quot;. This will already make your front wheel less prone to slipping as you don't force it downwards that hard anymore. If the front wheel slips this shifted position will prevent you from getting slingshot towards the front and loosing balance. And it will also give you the possibility to lift your front wheel over some stones that you otherwise maybe would hit at a bad angle such that your wheel might slip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore don't get stiff in your legs, but remain flexible here. This will allow you to move and steer your bike under you without having to throw around your whole body from one side to the other with every slight turn. This way you can make your bike go slalom between the stones while keeping your body in a much more straight and stable motion above it.  Also the heel-drop technique discussed &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9791/5271&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; will be quite useful to keep control of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And last but not least: look forward and try to figure out a line where your front wheel can roll with as less contact to bigger obstacles as possible. Don't care too much about the back wheel, this will just roll behind and especially with 160mm of rear suspension it won't be too impressed by some stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-11-17T20:31:13.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18451" CreationDate="2013-11-17T20:23:51.477" Score="2" ViewCount="1159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a dent on my rear wheel on the weekend, a UST rim which I had been running a UST tyre on. This was allowing the tyre to burp (not running sealant) so I had to repair or replace. It was the first dent on this wheel and only relatively small (size of nail on small finger)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the technique of holding a flat piece of metal aginst the rim and carefully working along with a adjustable spanner I managed to get the rim straight without any further damage and could not see any cracks. The bead seems to have maintained it's shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I refitted the tyre (finally perfected the technique of seating a UST tyre with a floor pump) and it held pressure overnight although I've yet to ride on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any possible issues that I should be wary before riding this wheel?&#xA;Should I be confident that there is unlikely to be a catastrophic failue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not concerned about burping, I can manage that just worried of a rim breaking at speed downhill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-11-17T22:29:41.527" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T17:39:08.270" Title="Using a UST wheel after a dent has been repaired" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18447" CreationDate="2013-11-18T04:36:38.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the type of rockgarden described, you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduce the slippage tendency by &lt;strong&gt;loosening your pressure on front brake&lt;/strong&gt;. Let's put it this way: the stone surface provides you with little friction. In some circumstances, the friction is just enough to keep the tire rolling in line. Add the friction needed for braking and you overpass the available friction. The tire then will slide to wherever the sum of all other forces lead it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;strong&gt;predict&lt;/strong&gt; where the tire will go when it slips. It will usually go to the gap between two rocks. Thus it is useful to pick a line where you follow the natural trace given by those gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ignore slippage&lt;/strong&gt;. This is indeed is easier said than done, it sounds just weird, I know. The point is, if you pick a good line, specially a straight one, the inertia of your body mass is bigger than the one from your bike. This means that your body tends to go in a straight line, so even if your bike slips a few centimeters below you, it will not be enough to immediately tip you off the bike. You will have a fraction of time to react and return to the balance point. For this to work, your bod must be traveling in the direction of the line you have selected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the general idea is to feel like you &quot;float&quot; over the rock garden, get used to the feel of the bike sweeping a couple of inches below you while keeping a good, firm but not stiff grip on the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't feel comfortable at certain speed, reduce it, and practice. Have patience. Sooner or later your speed will grow and you will master these sections. Also, with practice, your line selection abilities will improve, you will do it faster and find ways of sticking your front wheel in strategic points where it wont slip and those points will serve you to improve control, switch lines or change course. Remember: &lt;strong&gt;practice and patience&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note: Did you ever as a kid played running and suddenly stiffening your feet so you slid on the floor for a couple of yards? You weren't afraid of such slippage right? Why? You already knew how to predict it, you actually enjoyed it, so relax and enjoy your gardens!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T04:36:38.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18449" CreationDate="2013-11-18T05:13:02.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any possible issues that I should be wary before riding this wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Just go ride. Always have a spare tube with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I be confident that there is unlikely to be a catastrophic failue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only catastrophic failure I see is if you hit the rim (e.g pinch flat very hard) again on the exact same spot. Then there is a high possibility that the aluminium will crack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry too much. If you've pulled the rim dent back at 95% of the correct position then you have nothing to fear of. My rear wheel on my old bike had 9 (nine) of those straightened dents and I was using the ghetto tubeless method. No problems whatsoever. Here is a similar dent on my new bike just before fixing it: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/oMGab6L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://i.imgur.com/oMGab6L.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T05:18:47.803" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T05:18:47.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18447" CreationDate="2013-11-18T07:44:07.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when the front tire &quot;steps&quot; on the side of a stone, then slides down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to experience and describe the above (on 20cm diameter rocks) means that you are going very slow. Speed is your best friend here. Maintain a relaxed and neutral attack position and let the 160mm bike of yours handle the terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T09:51:00.820" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T09:51:00.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18434" CreationDate="2013-11-18T08:44:03.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would get a spare front wheel and a studded Schwalbe winter tyre, pref 30-622 since it the smallest I know of and it got a quite low rolling resistance. Just leave it on for the winter period or swap it out for the icy days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been commuting daily year round in northern Sweden for the past 5 years and 3-4 years more prior to that. Up here we have around -10 to -30° C during 3-4 months and some really shitty weather in fall and autumn when it periodically is rainy with frozen ground. My daily ride has a 40-622 tyre with 240 spikes and I never even slipped with it. Actually I also have a spare one for the back wheel but haven't come around to mounting it yet since the need weren't so big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8603" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T13:55:44.547" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T13:55:44.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2013-11-18T08:57:57.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For platform pedals&lt;/strong&gt;, the solution is IMHO obvious:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about mountain hiking boots, with gaiters over them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The boots breathe, unlike nylon wrap or neopren overshoes. The gaiters could also be breathable, if one puts the extra $$ into a pair of gore-tex ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stiff sole, when used on a spiky platform, provides excellent pressure distribution, as if the platform of the pedal was way larger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ankle protection in a possible fall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PtwLj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Get brown shoes, this way the mud won't stain them.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Get the longest possible gaiters - right up to the knee.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T08:43:30.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-18T17:06:30.950" Score="1" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I start to pedal, say up hill or have to move quickly, my pedals slip and I can't get any movement except for a really bad slip. When I'm on a flat straightaway and have to pedal I hear an awful clanking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8606" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T17:33:12.513" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T06:14:58.050" Title="Pedaling causes rear wheel/pedals to slip" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18449" CreationDate="2013-11-18T17:39:08.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically you've compromised the integrity of the rim. Now, the real question is how much you've compromised it? I would say this depends on the type and material of the rim. XC rims can only take so much abuse before needing replacements, where as big, burly downhill rims can handle a lot of dents, strikes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After only one dent, I wouldn't worry too much about any rim, unless you completely caved in one side of the rim. If it's bad enough that you're constantly burping you should consider replacing it. There's the matter of comfort as well, if you flatten out a section of rim, you might feel it on every revolution; that's ridable, but probably not too fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, and this is &lt;em&gt;personal&lt;/em&gt; advice, I've found that my rear wheel takes much more abuse than the front, so you may get away with swapping your rims around (assuming similar hubs, spoke count, etc). Again, I didn't say this would guarantee no problems, but might help your rim last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T17:39:08.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18455" CreationDate="2013-11-18T18:07:04.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be several possible reasons for this behaviour - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Derailleur could be out of adjustment - can be fixed by barrel adjuster/adjusting the tautness of the shifter cable. You can shift into a cog in the middle of range and visually inspect if derailleur is in line vertically under the cog that chain rests on. When derailleur is properly adjusted, one should be able to spin the pedals backwards freely without the derailleur arm getting stretched/extended.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your chain could be stretched and/or rear cogs worn. Use chain wear indicator tool to see if chain is stretched and visual inspection should indicate wear on the cogs. Worn out cogs may look sharp and pointy/ like a shark fin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you replace the cogs, make sure to replace the chain as well. This helps avoiding undue cog wear due to stretched chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T18:07:04.037" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-18T18:45:58.700" Score="0" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions about the Y-Foil frame (beam frame)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly as far as i have seen, there is no rear suspension system, does the fact that there is no seat tube offer suspension and dampening, or is the frame to ridged and strong to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, i am having trouble understanding where the advantages come from and why it was banned. I understand that while made from carbon fiber and the shape of the tubing would mean it is lightweight and aerodynamic, but ofcourse a frame with a seat tube can also be designed with those 2 aspects. so what advantages does having no seat tube provide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8608" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T22:47:52.593" Title="Y-Foil Frames Rear Suspension?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1917" CreationDate="2013-11-18T19:00:41.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ride SPD shoes, Buy Shimano MW-81 winter boots. They are waterproof with gore-tex lining.  Water generally can only enter via the top of the shoe. Combine these with gaiters and you'll be very dry. I find these good down to about freezing and are great for spring / fall commuting or off road riding in sloppy conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also for SPD shoes in colder conditions, buy 45nrth fasterkatt or Wolvhammer boots. They are basically a cycling shoe with a waterproof bootie integrated in to the shoe.  Fasterkatt is for moderate cold, Wolvhammer is for sub freezing weather.  These are pricey, but very effective.  Again, water can infiltrate through the top of the cuff, so gaiter covering the upper area will reduce the chance of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shoe covers will help a bit, but most shoes are not sealed around the cleat and are very vented on the sides and may have water infiltration there, and will likely fill up with water if you step in even a shallow puddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neoprene socks (look for ones called SealSkinz) are recommended by some for very wet and cold weather. You can wear these with normal shoes. Your feet may get a bit wrinkly, but it keeps the hot water in and the cold water out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not cold, then just deal with wet feet getting wet.  Rinse your shoes when you get home and dry them out with newspaper, a hair dryer, or get yourself a fan powered boot dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wear wool socks as well, since if they get wet, they still retain some insulating ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For you legs, a downtube mounted grunge guard does a good job and can be installed and removed relatively easily and doesn't tend to get in the way of suspension or big tires as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T19:06:05.120" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T19:06:05.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18443" CreationDate="2013-11-18T19:13:39.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want an old man mountain Sherpa rack. It can be attached at the hub level and can be installed via hose clamps or fender mounts on rear seatstays.  It is made to even accommodate most disc brake equipped bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldmanmountain.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.oldmanmountain.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T19:13:39.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18455" CreationDate="2013-11-19T14:06:25.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that your derailleur is not aligned properly (ie it has got been or pushed out of straight in storage or when dropped put away)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best way to tell is to move it onto middle cog of cassette and see if the cage with the 2 jockey wheels is straight down, if not then the hanger or derailleur itself is bent and no manner of fiddling with cables will sort it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a number of videos on the net on how to align the derailleur hanger aka dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8616" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T14:06:25.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18440" CreationDate="2013-11-19T16:10:55.017" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Google Translate, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weber-products.de/products/kargo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.weber-products.de/products/kargo/&lt;/a&gt; offers an overrun brake as an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Beim Bremsvorgang erhöht sich das Gewicht des Anhängers um ein vielfaches. Deshalb empfiehlt sich für einen größeren Anhänger mit schwerer Ladung eine Auflaufbremse. Diese verstärkt beim Bremsvorgang die Bremswirkung und sorgt damit für viel mehr Sicherheit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And having found that, an image search for &quot;auflaufbremse fahrradanhänger&quot; finds several more, but I don't know how many are commercially available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://viadukt.eu/produkt/PT6_Bike_Trailer-2-65-111.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://viadukt.eu/produkt/PT6_Bike_Trailer-2-65-111.htm&lt;/a&gt; was the only commercial example I could find at the time of first answering.  Dead link as of December 2015, still at &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20150922174819/http://viadukt.eu/produkt/PT6_Bike_Trailer-2-65-111.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://web.archive.org/web/20150922174819/http://viadukt.eu/produkt/PT6_Bike_Trailer-2-65-111.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excerpt from page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Two disc brakes, which act as overrun brakes, ensure a high degree of&#xA;  safety when cycling and braking, even at full loading. The PT 6 is&#xA;  fitted with two large balloon tyres for extra cushioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dzJxN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dzJxN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PT6 trailer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DIY: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fahrradzukunft.de/4/lastenanhaenger/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://fahrradzukunft.de/4/lastenanhaenger/&lt;/a&gt;  German page about overrun brakes on a two-wheel trailer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hcd6c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hcd6c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pivot at tow-hitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TjVQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TjVQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Balancing pulleys&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/reY85.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/reY85.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right-side/non-drawbar side brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://a2011.wordpress.com/2011/10/20/auflaufbremse-fur-fahrradanhanger/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://a2011.wordpress.com/2011/10/20/auflaufbremse-fur-fahrradanhanger/&lt;/a&gt; German page using bowen cables instead of exposed inner cables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCDHF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCDHF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right side brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KifOd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KifOd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Overrun pivot using a spring.  This is at the corner or elbow of the drawbar not at the hitch.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="1158" LastEditDate="2017-08-22T16:24:14.797" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T16:24:14.797" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-19T16:53:50.643" Score="2" ViewCount="1132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride mostly two bikes: one for commuting/touring, one for training (and soon racing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride SPD on the commuter and installed SPDs on the racing bike that I bought a bit later so I did not have to buy new shoes just for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is that as Iam taking training/racing more seriously, I would not want to be limited in the choice of my shoes when I get to buy some in the future, and the only SPD compatible ones are either touring/commuting/MTB or very bottom-of-the-range road ones that have both the 3 road drillings and the 2 SPD drilling.&#xA;I want to be able to choose some shoes that have very road specific features such as lower weight and very stiff soles...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, SPDs are fine for touring/commuting/MTB but if they're not commonly used for road training/racing, there has to be a reason...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this all leads me towards a switch to road pedals...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wondering about the system to pick:&#xA;- standard Shimano SPD-SL that seems to be extremely standard, good value (both the pedals and spare cleats)&#xA;- Time? Look? Mavic? that seem to their fans&#xA;- Speedplay: I really like the 2 sided system and there seem to be good reviews but they're expensive, bot pedals and spares...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I pick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that I will continue touring and commuting with SPDs so, while I am ready to lose shoe compatibility on all bike, I don't want the transitions between systems to be too tough, hence my liking of the Speedplay system and its double sides ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2013-11-19T21:34:20.660" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T19:33:40.347" Title="Replace SPD pedals for road pedals... which system to choose?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-19T18:48:20.417" Score="7" ViewCount="31323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying in vain to remove a rear cassette that I myself installed about a year ago.  I may have over-tightened the lock ring and now I can't remove it no matter what position I hold the wheel-chain whip-wrench combination.  Any advice on what to do to get this cassette off (short of going to my LBS)?  The wheel is relatively new and the cassette is very new, and the reason I want to remove the cassette is to replace a broken spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastActivityDate="2020-12-20T19:29:03.883" Title="How can I remove a stuck rear cassette?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18465" CreationDate="2013-11-19T19:43:50.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you yourself grease the threads before installing?  This is especially important when the lock ring is aluminum.  I'll assume your free hub body is either steel or titanium and there's no grease.  If force alone won't move it, it's time to try leverage or impact or both.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the shop they'll ask you the above question before putting the wheel on the ground with the right (or cassette holding) chain whip in a position where it cannot move (under a table or something solid and heavy).  The lock ring tool or wrench can have a longer lever attached to it and push straight down.  If that doesn't work, get a plastic hammer and try impact.  Good luck, and always grease your threads..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8619" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T19:43:50.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18428" CreationDate="2013-11-19T19:43:59.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several commercial products that may or may not help: &#xA;Cat Crap, Jaws Quick Spit, McNett Sea Drops, Clarity Defog It&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As DIY Goes:&#xA;Spit, baby shampoo, bar soap or dish soap wiped over the lens and buffed &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; off the inside of the lens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some folks report success with all of these methods.  Do they work better than nothing? Probably.  Will they Work for your style of riding? Maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2013-11-19T21:20:45.763" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T21:20:45.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17795" CreationDate="2013-11-19T19:47:57.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bottom bracket is a sealed cartridge unit it's less important.  If you're using a bottom bracket that has loose ball bearings and a spindle it's very important.  Mostly the same advice goes for headsets.  All this is less important than back in the day when all BBs and headsets had exposed and floating bearings inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8619" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T19:47:57.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18464" CreationDate="2013-11-19T20:18:09.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden commuter and road racing bikes both for decades and can validate your decision to go specific in regards to your shoe/pedal setup.  Start with the shoes - try a bunch on and find a pair that really fit well and seem to work for you.  Most modern shoe/pedal systems use the three bolt pattern common to Shimano and Look systems so there's not a lot of compatibility issues anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speedplay is the outlier for sure here - I wouldn't worry so much about single sided vs double sided.  Getting in and out is a bit trickier for road systems but you'll figure it out quickly regardless.  What you want to concentrate on is float and release pressure.  Since you're used to clipless on your commuter, it will be fairly straightforward to try systems out.  Work with a retailer who will let you try different systems while using a trainer, that way you can get a feeling for how they work.  If you don't have a retailer close by who will let you do this, look for a fitter and ask them to fit you.  It costs about $100-$150 to get fitted properly with new shoes and pedals on your bike but it's well worth it in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8619" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T20:18:09.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-19T22:46:19.763" Score="5" ViewCount="1188" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many questions that deal with routine/ preventative maintenance (including this one which is probably the most comprehensive &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3720/optimal-maintenance-schedule&quot;&gt;Optimal Maintenance Schedule&lt;/a&gt;) but none deal with issues related specifically to mountain bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all of us have access to a team of mechanics who rebuild our bikes for each weekend/ race but still want to get the optimal performance out of the components on our bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Performance degradation is a continual process, I'm not going to notice a marginal decrease in performance over the sort term, but over a couple of months my brakes won't feel as good, my gear changes won't be as crisp and my suspension won't ride the same. I check over my bike after each ride and lubricate, tighten and clean as required to keep it running well and safe (I will rebleed the brakes if required) but know there's stuff I can't afford/ be bothered to do each week or month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to know is when I should be anticipate carrying out more intensive servicing such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspension - oil and seal replacement (I have been told anecdotally that it should be every 35 - 50 hours)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes - rebuild&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pivots - bearing/ bushing replacement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear derailler - rebuild, replace bearings/ bushings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels - bearing replacement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working on a premise of waiting until there was a definite failure or significant loss of performance would mean that I wasn't getting the most out of my bike overall and may in fact lead to my bike being out of service when I want to ride it!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T02:38:43.217" Title="Maintenance Schedule" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18470" CreationDate="2013-11-19T23:30:09.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the maintenance periods for MTB are the hardest to predict, because conditions vary greatly.  If you ride in wet, muddy conditions you'll have to replace your drivetrain and brake components far more frequently than if you ride mostly in dry conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to be mostly concerned about bearing systems so I'm guessing you're riding in the slop a lot..  I'd plan on rebuilding the suspension after every season (or 6 months of solid riding), replace the disc brake pads and probably drivetrain components on the same schedule, but test this assumption - use a chain wear indicator and calipers to measure chain and brake pad wear respectively.  I wouldn't worry so much about wheel bearings, derailleur and frame pivots - they'll let you know when they're shot..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8619" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T23:30:09.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18367" CreationDate="2013-11-19T23:34:16.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try putting either 8 or 6 mm hex wrenches in both axle ends and rotating counterclockwise.  A lot of newish hubs are simply held together with threaded composite axles..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8619" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T23:34:16.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18359" CreationDate="2013-11-19T23:38:08.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the locknut can't be tightened down without slipping, there will be no way to keep it tight.  Hopefully the fork threads are ok and not damaged otherwise you're looking at a new fork.  Also check to see that you're using at least 5 threads for the locknut - if the locknut is being tightened on only a couple of threads it's probably not going to hold and you'll have to either remove a spacer or use a lower profile top cup or get a longer fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8619" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T23:38:08.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2013-11-19T23:53:40.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad's garage contains a large workbench with a bench vise mounted on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He takes a piece of flexible closed-cell foam, perhaps 1 cm (0.25&quot;) thick. He wraps the foam so that it protects the bottom and sides of his bike's top tube. Then he puts the wrapped top tube inside the bench vise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works fine for him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3674" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T23:53:40.223" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-11-19T23:53:40.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18470" CreationDate="2013-11-20T02:38:43.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should definitely check the gear shifting regularly. I'd say monthly, or whenever you notice that it's not as easy or definite as you'd like. That means popping the outers off the frame, sliding them along the cables and making sure there's no grit or fraying. Then lube them. Doing that will kill the fine adjustment of the gears, so you need to get the cables back to their neutral position - go for a quick ride and shift a lot. 5 minutes, not half an hour. Then adjust your gears properly. You may be able to do that on the bike, or you may need a workstand. But do it after a quick ride, not immediately after the cables have been worked on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same thing with the brakes. I'm going to assume disk brakes. With cable brakes, check the pad wear every 20-ish hours of riding and the brake lever travel whenever you get on the bike. Adjust the brakes so the travel is right if it's not. If the pads are worn, even &quot;oh, there's enough there&quot;, fit your new pads and order a replacement set. Always have a spare set of pads at home, because that way you know you always have them. When that model is discontinued you want to know &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; your bike becomes unrideable (ie, when you just fitted your last pair of pads, not when that pair wears out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ditto wheels. When you're adjusting something and the wheel is spinning, make sure the wheel is round and rotates easily. That way you'll catch broken spokes and worn wheel bearings early on. New wheel bearings are cheap, new races can mean replacing the hub. Your call :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you service anything, look at how worn it is. Wiggle it. If you've adjusted it recently, think about why it's not staying adjusted - either you're doing it wrong or something else has happened. Have bearings worn and now have play? Is there a crack in the frame opening up that's &quot;shortening&quot; your brake or gear cables? Has a washer or bolt fallen out? Has the derailleur or hanger been bent so many times it's about to break? Until you know, don't just assume you mis-adjusted something last time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous advice of paying a bike mechanic just because they are a second set of eyes and don't have the &quot;I'm lazy, I can leave that for later&quot; issue is sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T02:38:43.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2013-11-20T09:10:57.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built one out of timber, part of an old car bike rack (you could easily pick up a damaged one 2nd hand for this) and a few plumbing fittings. I usually use it for storage, but I built it as a work stand.  The timber was left over from other jobs, all the other bits were parts I had anyway, so total cost was zero.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistic cost in the region of £30/$50 if you don't have to buy a bike carrier (which was disassembled, not destroyed in the process). I  also painted it with fence paint so I can leave it outside if it gets in the way, or use it for cleaning bikes if I want to get the gears to a nice working height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upright is only 2x2&quot; though, I'd recommend a fence post instead for stiffness.  I'll try to get a picture at the weekend, when I can get to it in the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T09:10:57.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18484" CreationDate="2013-11-20T09:11:16.390" Score="1" ViewCount="3576" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to replace the headset cups and race faces on a steel frame for 1&quot; fork. Removed the old cups by gently knocking them in a circle with a steel pipe of the correct diameter. However, the new cup are a hair too small - although no wobble, they are freely inserted and removed from the head tube. The slack is much less than a mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LBS said that this is normal, and that they can fix it, by inserting something in between the head tube and cups. So is it normal? The headset is &lt;a href=&quot;http://screambikes.eu/en/forks/4694-vp-components-h733-headset.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; and the fork is a cheap Zoom 1 inch threaded fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should be inserted, so that the cups can be correctly installed? (I was planning on using the hummer and piece of wood technique)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a calliper.  30.0mm cup, 30.2mm frame. Тhe cup is really easy to insert while pinching it with fingers, although it does not wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased 2-component glue and nailed the thing in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T09:05:13.097" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T09:05:13.097" Title="New headset cups loose against the frame" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2013-11-20T15:01:38.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not the best, but my bikes have a double leg kickstand that will pick one of the wheels off the ground.  Then I can put it on a regular workbench or table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T15:01:38.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18272" CreationDate="2013-11-20T17:54:26.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pros of Latex Tubes&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightweight compared to butyl tubes&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More flexible than butyl tubes, leading to a smoother ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons of Latex Tubes&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More expensive (about 3 to 4 times the price)&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May be more susecptable to blowouts.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should be powedered with talc before installing to reduce stickyness and avoid pinching.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looses pressure more quickly due to more porus nature, you need to pump before every ride&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably notice a difference using latex tubes only if you are running higher TPI road tires. A higher TPI tire (100TPI+) is going to be thinner, more flexible, lighter, and have lower rolling resistance than a low TPI tire. The Latex tube will help when using these tires, since it's flexiblilty will compliment the flexibility of the tire.  Ultimately, this will give a 'smoother' ride because the tire will be able to conform better to the shape of the pavement and be very light. A standard butyl tube would add more rigidity to the flexible tire, reducing the benefits of the more flexible outer casing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you have a very rigid tire, then it will not have as pronounced effect, in this case, you're probably not going to care much about the difference in tubes. So if that's the case, just run standard butyl tubes, because you won't notice much of a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, You can mend punctures easily with ordinary patches and glue. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tubular-repair.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; recommends using a piece of old latex tube cut in to a rounded shape and attaching it with tubular rim glue (regular vulcanizing fluid from a patch kit can be used but does not work as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already have nice tires, and a smoother ride and weight savings are important to you then it may be worth checking out latex tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T21:47:21.610" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T21:47:21.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-20T23:25:27.013" Score="3" ViewCount="1493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 6'2 and ride an XL hardtail.&#xA;I found a killer deal for a full suspension that is a Large frame.&#xA;Since I am basically right in the middle of large and xl frames would it work riding a large?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm tall but not a big guy&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8628" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-11-21T20:24:20.953" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T20:24:20.953" Title="Bike frame measurements" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18482" CreationDate="2013-11-21T01:06:17.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each manufacturer sets its' own guidelines for frame sizing based on their frame geometry.  The only true way to judge what size frame you need is to ride the bike and see if it is comfortable. Don't buy if you can't ride it. Since frames are sized by more than one means of measurement there is no true standard. Some makers use small, med, large  others are numerically odd numbers and others are numerically even numbers. You might fit on one type of frame and the same size from a different company could be too large or too small. If you want to complicate things add in different wheel sizes 26&quot;vs 27.5 vs 29er and it gets even more confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T01:06:17.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18478" CreationDate="2013-11-21T01:30:33.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What the LBS may intend to do is add some Loctite or similar chemical retaining compound. The compound is going to glue the cups into the headset. The material will fill in the very small space between the two pieces. The space may be due to machine tolerances with the frame being on the large side of the spec and the headset on the small end of the spec or previous damage to the frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T01:30:33.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18478" CreationDate="2013-11-21T03:58:55.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are most likely going to try and shim it with a small piece of metal, a bit of old beer tin or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy these off the shelf for mismatched seat tubes/posts but I've never seen a headset specific one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once everything is assembled and clamped down it should be as good as new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T03:56:38.360" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T03:56:38.360" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2013-11-21T09:17:26.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, ITB problems can sometimes come from too much of an increase in weekly distance.  A 5-10% increase per week seems to be the usual rule of thumb.  It may be that adding your commute to your usual running was too much of an increase, and cutting back, and then gradually increasing could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, you mentioned in comments that you're using clipless pedals, so it's important to get the angles right.  You should be able to adjust the cleat left/right to get closer to or further away from the frame.  And also the angle of your foot on the pedal.  When I first got mine, I loosened the clips until I had a lot of float, rode for a bit, then stopped pedalling and made a note of where my feet naturally angled themselves.  Do this at various positions through the pedal stroke, and repeat, reducing the float as you do.  Some people will be happy reducing the float to zero, others will still need some as the angle of their foot changes through the stroke.  You'll need to work out which one you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3641" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T09:17:26.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18482" CreationDate="2013-11-21T14:37:05.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From one tall guy (I'm 6'3&quot;) to another, I can say it's really down to riding style and feel. I prefer my XC hardtail to be a bit longer and taller so I can maximize my power size of my body. However, I did the same thing when I bought my full-suspension bike, I went a size down from XL to L. I really enjoy how easy it is to get my weight over the back of the bike and how playful a smaller frame can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To some degree you can adjust the fit with parts choices as well. Adding a set-back seatpost and a longer stem will stretch out your body position for instance. Running longer cranks can help with a slightly shorter seattube length. Of course, this might also change the bike's handling characteristics, but at least it's easier to change crank arms than a frame!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you ride it, or try a similarly sized bike and it's not comfortable, I wouldn't force it. There's always more bikes for sale and having one that fits you is way more important than saving a few bucks now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T14:37:05.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-11-21T19:35:45.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No answer mentions your &lt;strong&gt;fitness/cardio level&lt;/strong&gt;. As mentioned by most answers, the faster you go, the more you sweat. But you'll also notice that the less you are in shape, the more you sweat. Take anyone who's obese on a short walk, and you'll see them sweat 5 minutes later even though you're probably just getting warmed up. If you exercise with a great athlete and push yourself to keep the pace, you will be the person sweating like crazy, when he'll be warming up. Bottom line: &lt;strong&gt;if you're in better shape, you will sweat less&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have time in your schedule, &lt;strong&gt;outside of work, go out and push yourself with a heart monitor&lt;/strong&gt;, go to 70-80% for a good 45-60min once or twice a week; make sure you warmup well before. After a few weeks, you will notice that at the lower speeds, on your commute, you will no longer sweat as much, because your body can handle it better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3818" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T19:35:45.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18491" CreationDate="2013-11-22T09:25:21.243" Score="4" ViewCount="59220" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title might be wrong, I am not familiar with the terminology here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just got a &lt;strong&gt;BR-M445L front hydraulic brake&lt;/strong&gt;. Installed it - this stuff is MUCH easier to install than a cable disc brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my problem is that in order to apply maximum braking force, &lt;strong&gt;the lever has to be pulled all the way to the handlebars&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I discovered the reach adjustment screw on the lever. With this screw, I moved the &quot;at rest&quot; position of the lever further from the handlebars. Thus, the situation is somewhat better now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what I would want to do, is leave the lever not too far from the handlebar, and remove the &quot;free travel&quot; - the part of the lever's path, during which the pads do not contact the disc at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, I would like to have 2-3 cm of travel of the lever, instead of 5-6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of screws on the calliper, but I am scared to touch them, before knowing what I am doing. One is on the entrance of the hose, similar to a cable brake adjustment screw. The other is at the base of a small opening, covered with a cap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T06:10:08.837" Title="How to adjust Shimano hydraulic brakes contact point?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18490" CreationDate="2013-11-22T09:39:07.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brakes should adjust themselves automatically. Try pumping the lever all the way a couple of times. If that doesn't help, or the contact feels squishy, the brakes probably need bleeding. Either do that yourself or take the bike to your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T09:39:07.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18504" CreationDate="2013-11-22T10:42:13.580" Score="3" ViewCount="2587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a single gear bicycle. My experience with bikes is very limited, I haven't owned a bike since I was a kid. I have been mountain biking in the Lake District a few times in the last 3 years or so and enjoyed it a lot. At that time, I just hired a mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to buy a bike to to commute to and from work (8 miles/13 KM each way - no steep climbs). I'm tempted by the single gear bicycles because they require low maintenance and fitness wise they can be more of a workout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My criteria so far is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has to have a free wheel, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain tensioning mechanism,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes on both&#xA;wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else a newbie like me should consider before buying a single gear bike? I'm 6'2&quot; and weigh 10 stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8590" LastEditorUserId="8590" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T16:43:23.580" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T22:00:33.313" Title="What to look for when buying a single gear bike?" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18502" CreationDate="2013-11-22T11:06:26.343" Score="6" ViewCount="3432" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, a new bike, Avid Elixir 5 180mm front and rear. My second ride was on a short dirt road, 340m denivelation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I held the brakes (mainly the front) more than 50% of the time, as the road was too steep for my skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the descent, there was slight smell of burnt plastic, coming from the front calliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What has caused this and is it at reason for concern?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another account, a couple of Tektro Augura smelled severely of burnt plastic at the middle of the descent (another bike, another rider). She finished the descent and has not seen ill effect since (well, the front braking is not as good as before, but no idea if this is since that happening or later).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T18:39:59.367" Title="Is it normal for disc brakes to smell of burnt plastic?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2013-11-22T12:07:45.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try leaving earlier, maybe before the day heats up. Granted that during the summer this means a very early start, but at certain times of the year it can mean pleasantly cool morning air and maybe less traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the forecast and aim to wear clothing that makes you feel &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; too cold at the start of your journey, while carrying a few alternative layers in your panniers. It's worth taking into account wind direction when planning. On cooler days wear something windproof you can quickly unzip at the first sign of overheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T12:07:45.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18492" CreationDate="2013-11-22T13:47:08.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some other items you might consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, &lt;strong&gt;the fit of the bike&lt;/strong&gt;. If you are 6'2, you will be on the high end of normal sizing, and not all models may be available in a suitable size. Staff at any decent bike shop should be able to measure you, and suggest a range of suitable models however. Take them for test rides and make sure you don't experience knee pain or back pain. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight of the bike&lt;/strong&gt;. If you will ever have to carry the bike, this can be quite important. For example, if you live in a flat above ground level, and don't want to leave your nice new bike outside at night where thieves can get it. Single speed bikes tend to be lighter anyhow, so you should have no trouble finding a cheap model that's still under twenty pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low maintenance design&lt;/strong&gt;. If you want a low maintenance bike, single speeds are a great start. I'd also look for a coaster brake (back-pedal brake), and a nice chain case, possibly even a full chain case if you can bear the weight. An aluminium frame may also be a plus, as ChroMo (Steel) will rust relatively quickly without careful maintenance in wet climates, especially if there will be salt on the roads in winter. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fenders&lt;/strong&gt; if you ever plan to ride in rain, mud, or snow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rack Mounts&lt;/strong&gt; if you ever plan to carry something heavier than a backpack. Also useful for riding in the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T13:47:08.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18492" CreationDate="2013-11-22T14:09:25.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1997/what-is-the-difference-between-a-single-speed-bike-and-a-fixed-gear-bike?rq=1&quot;&gt;Fixed wheel/single speed&lt;/a&gt; bikes are now pretty common, so you aren't stuck for choice. At 6'2 you'll still be within the height range for most brands, although at that height your weight might be a factor (e.g. I'm 6'1 and 14 stone and there are some marques I would break). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most road-worthy bikes (i.e. not built for the track or polo or anything else) will come with two brakes - even if on a fixed you'll likely never use the rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of many brands which sell with tensioner installed as standard, but any half decent bike shop would be able to install them as part of a new bike purchase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you try a flip-flop hub. I know you think you want a single speed, not fixed, but until you've tried it, at least keep the option open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would visit an actual physical shop and try some out, the geometry and setup for single speeds can feel a little different to a road bike, let alone to mountain bikes. You'll also want to feel the various types of handlebars (drops, flat, courier), which make a big difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're in the shop, discuss tools with them, if fixed is even an option, you'll want to get some instruction on lock rings and how to deal with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are completely new to single speed and are adamant you don't want fixed, perhaps look at hub gears (e.g. something with a Shimano Alfine hub). You'll get the advantage of a single rear cog, but the benefits of gears. Fixed is a different beast, but hub versus single speed is such a distinction that I can't see why people wouldn't take the gears.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T14:09:25.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18499" CreationDate="2013-11-22T15:23:58.630" Score="4" ViewCount="2801" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commuter rig is an old trek mountain bike that I've converted to fixed gear with an ENO hub/crankset.  I am thinking about going geared for the winter.  I have a rear wheel that I built last year and never used (found the eccentric wheel on craigslist around the same time), an SLX rear derailleur and an LX shifter.  Looking for a wide range cassette so I can take the bike offroad a bit more often, but I'm hoping to keep my 42t chainring on.  I'm willing to take the risk that the ENO ring can work with a 9 speed chain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best I've found is a shimano CS-HG61 (12-36) which I think would be more than enough, but if there's anything bigger available I'd like to know.  Not interested in mods/adapters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3016" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T16:33:27.307" Title="What is the widest range 9 speed cassette?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18498" CreationDate="2013-11-22T16:33:27.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to go faster on the flats you can find multiple cassette models with a range of 11-34. If you are looking for more &quot;granny&quot; on the hills, 12-36 is the best you are going to find out of the box without swapping out the low ring. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k9.shtml&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, on most 9-speed cassettes I have seen, the smallest ring or two are not riveted to the body, so you could easily swap the 12 out for an 11 to get that much more range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T16:33:27.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18464" CreationDate="2013-11-22T19:33:40.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, you can get high end MTB shoes that are just as stiff as road shoes and only a bit heavier. ( Many high end MTB shoes are just the same as the road model with &#xA;a different hole drilling and more outsole stuff glued on. ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example is NorthWave: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTB shoe: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northwave.com/it/catalog/scarpe/mtb/11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northwave.com/it/catalog/scarpe/mtb/11&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road shoe: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northwave.com/it/catalog/scarpe/road/9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northwave.com/it/catalog/scarpe/road/9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a light stiff shoe that you can actually walk in seems to be worth the few extra grams to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road Racers use what they are paid to use at the top level. If you are racing in a team there is a valid reason for everyone in the team to use a compatible pedal/cleat. ( bike swaps... ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't getting free pedals and shoes, there are no technical reasons to switch pedal types. However, part of racing is fitting in and using what everybody else uses. Road racers use road pedals because of history more than any other reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast Freddie Rodriguez used to win pro races on Crank Brothers MTB pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2004/06/bikes-and-tech/tech-report-pedal-choices-race-gear-for-next-year-and-the-ubertrainer_6243&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://velonews.competitor.com/2004/06/bikes-and-tech/tech-report-pedal-choices-race-gear-for-next-year-and-the-ubertrainer_6243&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T19:33:40.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18493" CreationDate="2013-11-22T20:01:11.067" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you may have &quot;glazed&quot; your pads and rotors. New brake pads require a break-in period before you subject them to hard long braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/workshop-how-to-bed-in-disc-brake-pads-31337/&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/workshop-how-to-bed-in-disc-brake-pads-31337/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when you already have your disks broken in, long drag braking can cause them to overheat and fade. This leads to a kind of vicious cycle in which the brake is less effective and you start using it even more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes are designed to cool themselves with the available airflow, even a few seconds every minute can make a difference. Of course, that's easier said than done when you feel like you are over your head. Braking effectively is a skill that takes practice. If you are dragging the brakes constantly to control your speed, you'll be better off coming to a complete stop and regrouping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, you just need to walk stuff when you are over your head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-training/how-to-brake-your-mountain-bike/&quot;&gt;http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-training/how-to-brake-your-mountain-bike/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T21:14:41.510" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T21:14:41.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18492" CreationDate="2013-11-22T20:21:56.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a longer-distance commuter singlespeed, it's good to look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rack and fender mounts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;room for wider tires (at least 700x28c) with fenders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;road (as opposed to track) geometry, which means less-twitchy handling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cromoly frame (as opposed to cheaper, heavier high-tensile steel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;handlebars offering multiple hand positions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You sound British, so I'll note that a British bike offering such features is the Charge Plug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T20:21:56.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18492" CreationDate="2013-11-22T22:00:33.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fit is the absolute most important and first thing you should consider. If the bike doesn't fit, you'll never be happy with it. I won't get into how to fit a bike since that's not your question. However, you can find lots of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/bike-fit&quot;&gt;info on this site&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=bike%20fit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;elsewhere around the internets&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, think about how you'll be using the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have to ride rough rodes with potholes? If so, think about getting something with slightly larger tires. If the roads are especially bad, or you want to cut through some trails, think about a mountain bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will you ride when the roads are wet? If so, make sure you have clearance for full fenders. Even if it's not raining, morning dew spraying off your tires can get you soaked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will you ride in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/winter&quot;&gt;wintry conditions&lt;/a&gt;? If so, you'll need fenders and perhaps studded tires. That's even more tire clearance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will you carry a backpack, or would you like to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pannier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;panniers&lt;/a&gt;? If you want panniers, look for a bike with rack mounts. It's much easier to mount a rack to a bike that's made for it than it is to Jimmy-rig one onto a bike that isn't. And frankly, I'd recommend the panniers. Carrying a backpack every day gets old really fast, especially if you ride in hot weather.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you interested in doing your own maintenance? If not, get a new bike. Not only will it need less maintenance, many shops offer free or reduced priced maintenance if you purchase a bike from them. If you do want to do your own maintenance, a used bike in good condition can easily fill your needs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for something with multiple hand positions, either &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=drop%20handlebars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;drop handlebars&lt;/a&gt; or get some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=bar%20ends&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bar ends&lt;/a&gt; for riser bars. Drops will give you aerodynamic advantages and more hand positions so are usually preferred. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're spot on with your other considerations. Don't worry too much about the chain tensioner though. If the bike that you end up picking out doesn't have one, they're cheap and easy to install. Brakes on both wheels are pretty standard if you get a bike from a shop. It's even legally required in many places. And a freewheel is a good place to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're even remotely interested in fixed gear, a flip-flop hub is cool. But don't listen to people who say that fixed is the most awesome thing in the world. Some people like it. Some people don't. It's completely personal preference. It's also hard on your knees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People will also tell you that steel is the only type of bike you should ride. Steel absorbs shock well and gives a more comfortable ride than aluminum over rough roads, but is also a bit flexier. A cheap steel frame will feel like a wet noodle underneath you whenever you pedal up a hill. A decent steel frame will still feel quite rigid, but still absorb some of the shock from the road. Aluminum is rigid and gives a bit rougher ride, but also doesn't rust. Rust is a pretty minor concern, but worth noting. And having &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;correct tire pressure&lt;/a&gt; will do more for the feel of your ride than your choice in frame material. But steer clear of carbon fiber for a commuter. It's uber-expensive and not as durable as either steel or aluminum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, make sure the bike is a good fit. Give it a test ride. If it doesn't feel right after a few adjustments, get a different bike. Fit is the most important thing. Did I mention that already? Good. It's that important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T22:00:33.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2047" CreationDate="2013-11-23T05:38:59.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could   be 5/16&quot; which is very close to M8 (7.9375mm vs. 8mm). Thread might be UNF 24 (24 threads per inch) or British Cycle Std. at 26 threads per inch. There are even some that are metric in terms of diameter but use BSC for thread spacing! If it's 5/16&quot; at 26 threads per inch then an M8-1.00 nut may fit since 25.4 tpi is very close to 26 tpi and 7.9mm diameter is very close to 8mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8640" LastActivityDate="2013-11-23T05:38:59.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18478" CreationDate="2013-11-23T13:48:49.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown, has a page with headset dimensions. According to him, some Austrian frames have slightly larger headset cup size 30.8 compared to standard one 30.2. So maybe you have old Austrian frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2013-11-23T13:48:49.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17398" CreationDate="2013-11-24T00:01:28.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it is possible that it is for a drum brake front hub, where the cable would normally run on the left side. if you have removable studs for you canti brakes, that is the likely answer. aside from dynamos, which usually attach on the right, i dont know what else it would be for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8642" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T00:01:28.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18515" CreationDate="2013-11-24T05:11:07.713" Score="23" ViewCount="15709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute on bike and I wear jeans (which I work in).  I find that after about 500 miles of bike commuting in a single pair of jeans I've got holes in my pants from the saddle-jean rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is probably accelerated by the fact that I have a fabric seat, the &quot;Jamis Aurora Sport&quot; saddle which comes stock with the Jamis Aurora.  However, I'm told that people experience similar issues with non-fabric seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I'm trying to figure out whether I should get a new saddle (something smoother like leather or plastic), or alternatively wear a pair of athletic shorts over my jeans (easily/quickly removeable at work/ in public).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At my current rate I will need to replace and/or repair a pair of jeans every 2 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what measures can be taken to minimize the rate at which my pants wear through when commuting (without the obvious solution of having dedicated pants for cycling)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7299" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T13:07:15.200" Title="How to minimize wear on pants" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18493" CreationDate="2013-11-24T05:55:30.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be sure that before riding on new brakes you are &quot;bedding&quot; them. This process allows for residue from your pads to contact the new resign-less rotors, creating an effective braking surface. Without doing this, you are likely to introduce pad residue in a feathered pattern that will produce squeals. Also the bedding smooths out your pad surface (they start a little rough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You bed your pads simply by consistent, hard braking. Do this before you get on the trail. When I build a bike up to sell, I immediately take it to the parking lot to check suspension, shifting, and to bed the pads on the rotors. Get up to speed and pull both front a rear levers while shifting your weight behind the saddle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that said you are getting that smell because the high amount of heat generated by the fiction caused by braking. The smell is fine. Just make sure you break them in consistently. Proper bedding will reduce heat (and smell) by creating more consistent and powerful braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8644" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-04-23T18:39:59.367" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T18:39:59.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18490" CreationDate="2013-11-24T06:10:08.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to bleed your brakes. The need for bleeding breaks arises when air is introduced into the breaking system, creating air bubbles. Shimano bleeding is easy, but an LBS might be the best bet unless you would like to invest in a bleed kit and some mineral oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unscrew the bleed cover on the brake lever and screw on the reservoir. Attach the syringe (filled with mineral oil) at the caliper after removing all the air bubbles from the hosing and give the cap screw at the bleed point a quarter turn. Fill the brake system with mineral oil until the collection of mineral oil in the reservoir is no longer bubbling. Do not pull the break lever in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that is done, do not pull the break lever until the wheel is mounted and rotor seated. Doing so will cause the pistons to move closer towards the rotor(helps when your pads are wearing down), leaving you unable to seat the rotor. The pistons can be pressed gently back into place with a tire lever. But this is also a way to introduce air back into the system.When you have finished the process of bleeding and re-seated your wheel and rotor, pull the levers until they are hitting firm and consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8644" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T06:10:08.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18455" CreationDate="2013-11-24T06:14:58.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your chain is stretched. You will have to replace it. Because your chain is stretch it no longer fits the teeth of your freewheel/cassette. But also due to that stretching, you have likely wore out that freewheel/cassette. It will also need to be replace. Expect to play $80-$100 with parts and labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8644" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T06:14:58.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18508" CreationDate="2013-11-24T06:17:49.797" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A leather saddle may be helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8644" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T06:17:49.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18508" CreationDate="2013-11-24T12:33:21.287" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious answer would be to get some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/jeans-for-cycling/&quot;&gt;Cycling Jeans&lt;/a&gt;, i.e. jeans specifically designed for cycling in. These have reinforcement and stretch in the right places and often have other features such as deep pockets, a loop to carry a small lock and reflective strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.levi.com/GB/en_GB/category/men/jeans/collections/levi-collections-commuter&quot;&gt;Levi&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rapha.cc/rapha-jeans&quot;&gt;Rapha&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.muxu.cc/muxu-ride-cycling-jeans.html#.UpHxkd60MXw&quot;&gt;Muxu&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.swrve.co.uk/jeans.html&quot;&gt;Swrve&lt;/a&gt; all make cycling jeans, so there's a fair amount of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T12:33:21.287" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2013-11-24T15:00:38.930" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many influencing factors involved here it is a really complex discussion, but in my view one of the key differences comparing bikes of today with what Merckx or Hinault would have ridden is the basic mass. The bikes are literally half a stone lighter now - 15 lbs for a current UCI legal machine vs. 22lbs for a 'vintage lightweight' with 531 or Columbus SL frame. This translates to roughly 5 percent in all up weight - which is very significant in a sport where the athletes are striving for just 3-4 percent body fat.  When you consider all those alpine ascents, all those little accelerations out of corners, that half a stone is enough to make a real difference. I can't prove it, but I think it quite feasible that 1.5-2 of those 5 kph ( since Merckx's days) could easily be accounted for by the weight reductions alone. Tyre technology is another important factor - I wouldn't be at all surprised if the bikes are 1-1.5 kph quicker on average just through improved rolling efficiency. Clearly, enhanced training methods and nutrition will have had some impact over the last few decades, but I tend to think that bike technology has been far and away the biggest contributor to the speed incease.  Aside from the component technology, you'll also notice that riders today tend to sit a fair bit higher on their machines. As Eddie B discusses in his training bible, races have become progressively shorter, so it is possible to run the saddles higher with an immediate, substantial, bio-mechanical advantage. Similarly, the bars have got progressively lower relative to the saddles which again is probably a reflection of shorter races and enhanced rider flexibility - regular stretching now being well recognised as an essential ingredient in overall fitness. Lower bars equal a flatter back, with subsequent aero benefit. Roads have undoubtedly improved greatly since the fifties, which is a factor in itself.  In another sense, the billiard smooth resurfaced roads of today have facilitated super stiff contemporary bikes which would be otherwise unridable on a three week bike race. My conclusion to this is that Fausto Coppi (time-warped from the nineteen fifties) set up on the latest technology, with a modern position, would certainly give Mr Wiggins a good run for his money!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8646" LastEditorUserId="8646" LastEditDate="2013-11-24T16:32:21.397" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T16:32:21.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18508" CreationDate="2013-11-24T23:04:32.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overall riding style probably dictates the type of saddle you should choose. I do think that a cushy, fabric covered gel saddle would be more conducive to wearing out a piece of fabric than a smoother plastic or leather saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another contributor to fabric wear is machine washing. Something to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, I wear Levi 501 shrink to fit jeans, usually hand washed as needed. My estimate is that I have spent over 1000 miles commuting to work wearing them. If I look carefully, I can see where the saddle has worn the fabric. But the fabric is still quite strong, showing no signs of thinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my advice is to change the saddle only if you don't particularly care for the one you have now, and consider buying tougher jeans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I object to the idea of wearing athletic shorts over a pair of jeans on a purely aesthetic level. But that's just me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4450" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T23:04:32.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2013-11-25T02:07:57.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar case from my personal experience- I hope it is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your post didn't mention what type of pedals and shoes you wear while cycling, but I found that if I used platform pedals and running shoes while I road, I ended up having a runner's knee condition with one knee. When I switched to wearing cycling shoes and SPD cleats the problem went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory was that the running shoes and platform pedals combination prevented  the minute rotation of my foot through the pedal. Wearing bike shoes on clipless pedals, my heels can swing a degree or two as I pedal, thus sparing my knees from the torsion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4450" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T02:07:57.787" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18508" CreationDate="2013-11-25T03:41:45.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the &quot;ergonomic&quot; saddles might go some way towards solving the problem. There's a style that just have pads for your buttocks with no &quot;nose&quot;. This will reduce the extra wear to just that from your thighs rubbing together. Or you could go the whole hog and buy a recumbent :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/POBXT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one via &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000GBK4Z4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Hobson-Easyseat-Ergonomical-Bicycle-Saddle/dp/B000GBK4Z4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T03:41:45.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18493" CreationDate="2013-11-25T12:12:54.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the shop, they said this was normal (duhhhhh!). In the end of any DH the brakes will smell of burnt plastic, they said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a problem with pad glazing, it will be felt on the levers, making them noticeably stiffer, and the braking force reduced, they said. If the was air on the system, the levers are again the part to look at - a sudden lack of braking, followed by gradual (temporary) recovery, they said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, bed your pads carefully. Feel your brakes and levers. Learn how to brake properly. And have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T12:50:02.430" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T12:50:02.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18526" CreationDate="2013-11-25T17:25:32.670" Score="7" ViewCount="25529" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has always bugged me. At the end of the season I'm breaking down my bikes and cleaning every inch of them and I get to the derailleur and can't seem to ever get all the junk out of the middle of it! Anyone have any good strategies for getting in by the springs and around the moving parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm fine with removing the cage and doing jockey wheels, etc., but would prefer to keep the main body together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T21:43:36.543" Title="How to clean a rear derailleur?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18524" CreationDate="2013-11-25T18:22:22.160" Score="10" ViewCount="16083" Body="&lt;p&gt;How or where do I clean my bike in winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Michigan, USA and winter can be very harsh, along with the added salt used for ice removal.  I am not commuting or anything, just occasionally riding for fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not cleaning my bike after a ride does not really seem like a good idea, so I would assume this would be a common issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried just using hot water, but it is punishingly cold and difficult.  Maybe it just one of those &quot;suck it up&quot; type things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a somewhat &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2705/how-should-i-clean-salt-out-during-winters&quot;&gt;related question&lt;/a&gt;, but more about chain cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T14:54:07.760" Title="How do I clean my bike in winter?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18521" CreationDate="2013-11-25T18:35:59.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wash it with mild soap and water. Use an old toothbrush to clean and low pressure water to rinse. Put in the sun to dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are very few things on bikes that will actually rust any more. As long as you avoid high pressure sprays[1] and make sure its' dry before you store it, there's almost nothing on the bike that will be affected by soap and water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]- High pressure sprays can get water past bearing seals and that is not good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T18:35:59.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18522" CreationDate="2013-11-25T20:55:44.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found the simplest way is to get it rinsed off outside if you can, buckets of warm/hot water work well, then bring it inside and wash in the tub. If you've got a garage or laundry room, this becomes even easier by basically sponge-bathing your bike with a rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative, but sometimes less worth it, is to take the bike to a self-wash car wash and spray it down on the low pressure setting and scrub it down there. Some washes have doors you can close to keep it a little warmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T20:55:44.067" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18522" CreationDate="2013-11-25T21:45:34.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I clean my bike in the winter almost the same way as in the summer. I usually just use water (add a little soap if it is really dirty) and a brush or cloth to agitate the dirt. In the winter this is going to suck no matter what you do, unless you bring your bike indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key thing that I find when washing my bike (in the summer or winter), is the preparation beforehand. Always keep all of the bearings and contact surfaces nicely greased. Cleaning and then lubing the chain before washing it will help a great deal too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tip in winter washing is to choose where you ride in order to avoid riding on salt or chemicals that can be found on the roads or sidewalks. Avoiding the road and sidewalks where there is salt and chemicals will allow you to not have to wash your bike after every ride. Just brush off the snow and wet slush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8655" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T21:45:34.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18521" CreationDate="2013-11-26T01:28:42.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lean the bike slightly against something with the derailer facing out.  Slide a section of newspaper up behind the derailer and large cog and let it drape down over the tire and onto the ground.  (This protects the tire and absorbs most of the solvent.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get an old toothbrush and a spray can of (no shouting now!) WD40 or some other similar solvent.  Alternately spray the derailer (and cluster, if you're so inclined) with WD40 and work it with the toothbrush.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's sufficiently clean (ie, no longer caked with congealed crud) wipe it dry and lubricate with chain oil.  (Since this is usually done in tandem with a chain cleaning, simply oiling the chain will usually oil the derailer sufficiently.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to hit it with another shot of oil after a day or two, since the small amount of remaining solvent may prevent the oil from reaching all surfaces at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T01:28:42.370" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18522" CreationDate="2013-11-26T07:11:21.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there was not too much mud that day, spraying the brakes and drivetrain with the water bottle, then, once indoors, re-greasing the chain, should be enough (otherwise it rusts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if things are more messy, a rag and the shower portable head, set to maximum pressure, should do it. I use cold water, to save electricity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T19:48:54.587" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T19:48:54.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14612" CreationDate="2013-11-26T11:35:12.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most newer rentals have rear seat passthru.  Take the front wheel off and you should still have one rear seat available for a passenger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8661" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T15:53:29.413" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T15:53:29.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2071" CreationDate="2013-11-26T15:27:56.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling Weekly reports that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/latest/541390/study-finds-hi-viz-clothing-has-no-effect-on-driver-passing-distances.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Study finds hi-viz clothing has no effect on driver passing distances&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Contrary to the researchers' expectations, there was no marked difference between ‘experienced rider' kit, and a vest marked ‘Novice Cyclist', nor between ordinary clothes and hi-viz kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T15:27:56.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2013-11-26T18:54:19.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a &quot;one size fits all&quot; solution. It will depend on the number of dogs (pack mentality) and breed (some are more agressive than others). My unsuccessful attempts have been to try to use my frame pump or pepper spray -- try doing this while pedaling for your life and you will wreck, which the dogs will love. I never try to outrun a dog unless I have a gigantic head start. The one solution that has always kept me alive is to get off my bike, use my bike as a shield, maintain eye contact with the dog/s, and walk out of its territory. That's what this is all about -- you are in the dog's territory. The dog/s don't hate you for who you are, but for where you are. How dare you trespass in his territory! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6867" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T18:54:19.653" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-26T20:11:26.233" Score="1" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have watched several video tutorials about how to service a fork and decided to try to open and clean my Suntour Nex 4610 fork . I didn't do anything besides cleaning and lubricating the tube. I didn't touch the spring or the suspension cylinder inside. But now when I reattach the two parts (without tightening the bolts) the fork stops moving even when I apply a lot of pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the reason for this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T20:36:33.537" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T10:38:28.867" Title="Not working fork" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18521" CreationDate="2013-11-26T21:43:36.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a complete clean and overhaul, which works wonders for shifting performance, the Park Tool dérailleur overhaul instructions cannot be beaten.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6081" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T21:43:36.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18458" CreationDate="2013-11-26T22:07:20.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only speak based on what I have read, but my understanding is that A) yes it has a softer ride quality due to the lack of a seat tube, and B) it was banned for the lack of a seat tube. &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/USACWeb/forms/uci/UCI-Equipment-and-Position-Controls.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UCI is pretty strict on what they consider legal and what they don't&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regard to your final question as it applies to road bikes, I would venture to say that the lack of a seat tube as it was designed for the frame in question does not provide any substantial advantages. Otherwise we would have seen more frames of this shape from other manufacturers and more of a push from the industry to legalize the design for UCI racing. There have been similar designs through the years such as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=softride&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&amp;amp;aq=t&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla%3aen-US%3aunofficial&amp;amp;client=firefox#q=softride%20bikes&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla%3aen-US%3aunofficial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Softride&lt;/a&gt;. They also failed, because that frame shape just isn't an awesome design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T22:07:20.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2013-11-26T22:51:28.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote a quick guide outline some of the best and effective testing methods you can use. These are word for word how they are delivered to my own athletes. Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://paulrinkenberg.hubpages.com/hub/How-to-Find-Your-Functional-Threshold&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to find your functional threshold&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8665" LastEditorUserId="8665" LastEditDate="2013-12-20T00:20:27.543" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T00:20:27.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2013-11-27T05:09:54.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of different field tests approaches. I've been using the Carmichael one (two 9-minute full out TTs with a cooldown between them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T05:09:54.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18532" CreationDate="2013-11-27T10:19:28.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without seeing pictures it's hard to figure out what has happened. Suntour use 'throw away' sealed damper units (the suspension tube) so not many parts to go wrong such as wrong oil volume and weight on other forks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think that you've misaligned the lock out adjustment when you've put the fork back together and it's permanently locked out. The other option is you've put the spring in incorrectly but this would suggest you struggled getting the fork together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=9&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;ved=0CHEQFjAI&amp;amp;url=http://veloline.by/%25D0%25BC%25D0%25B0%25D1%2581%25D1%2582%25D0%25B5%25D1%2580%25D1%2581%25D0%25BA%25D0%25B0%25D1%258F/manual/item/download/29_fc146c9f693c91f39533d2062a1666cb&amp;amp;ei=NMGVUvDsI6H9ywPnwYHQBQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNEBABsDKT6qGMNEXbDQqNli-SWMHQ&amp;amp;sig2=Hh1cRPzsJi1VnYpqp5ijMA&amp;amp;bvm=bv.57155469,d.bGQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;workshop manual&lt;/a&gt; it has the damper on page 96 and an exploded view on 135. Sorry it's a link straight to the PDF was all I could find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T10:38:28.867" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T10:38:28.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18544" CreationDate="2013-11-28T09:06:57.570" Score="1" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought a Continental Der Kaiser (similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16517/mtb-tires-why-the-extended-thread-on-the-edges&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;) and the peripheral knobs are pure magic. When I shift my weight slightly to the side, the central thread disengages and the peripheral engages. This has two advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The grip is excellent, the bike feels as if it is upright, while it is actually 45 degrees tilted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can very cleanly feel when the switch happens, so I know how hard am I cornering and what is the actual friction with the trail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had similar experience (without the first advantage, only the second) with much cheaper tires, similar to the following, but with uninterrupted central thread:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sLhol.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The side knobs change the &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; of the bike while cornering, and I know how close am I to losing traction. The effect is most pronounced on asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my new Scwalbe Land Cruiser tires have a round profile. Lacking the peripheral knobs, I feel very insecure during turns, because although the tires grip well, the two times I fell there was no warning - just the tire sliding our from under me. A tire with peripheral grips would have stood on its peripheral knobs and I would have felt that the edge of the tire was getting at funny angle and would have straightened the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it true that round profile tires (like the Land Cruiser) are inferior at cornering (on pavement)? If so, what are their advantages (considering that side knobs do not add to rolling resistance, when travelling at straight line)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As a bonus question, is the technique for cornering with round tires different from tires with side knobs?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T16:16:07.837" Title="Tire feedback when cornering" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18579" CreationDate="2013-11-28T09:13:33.813" Score="8" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF5K9V2w6W8&quot;&gt;general advice&lt;/a&gt; about cornering is to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORAOAeXNA1A&quot;&gt;lean the bike, not the body&lt;/a&gt;, to put pressure on the outside foot, and not to brake or brake only with the rear brake if absolutely needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Well, does this advice hold for snowy terrain?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today is my second day riding in snow this winter and still have the feeling that if I lean the bike, it will simply slide out under me. The tires are Schwalbe Land Cruiser. So I actually lean my body, keeping the bike as straight as possible through the turns. Exactly opposite to the general advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am talking about 10km/h riding, and I already managed to fall a couple of times (luckily at those speeds falls are harmless, when outside traffic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;On snow&quot; for the purpose of this answer means autumn leaves, over which there are several cm of frozen, hard or melting snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am fortunate that 1/3 of my commute is through a non-paved park, where I can practice funny things without the danger of being hit by a car. There are even some small (30cm) and other not so small ramps, but I haven't summoned the courage to jump those ... yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-11-28T11:13:26.443" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T07:41:52.887" Title="Is cornering in snow any different?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18542" CreationDate="2013-11-28T12:19:14.480" Score="13" ViewCount="5832" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is that cool maneuver that lets you do a very sharp turn (90° or even 180°) in very tight situations, like descending two flights of staircases (in town) or narrow and very steep winding trails (in nature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It involves pressing the front brake so the front wheel locks, and the rear wheel rises into the air. You would then place the rear wheel back down wherever you want, disengage the front brake, and continue riding in the new direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw an owner of a bike shop do this once, but have seen it only in online videos since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how is this maneuver called? I saw names like &quot;endo&quot; or &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/stoppie&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;stoppie&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, but &quot;endo&quot; seems to refer to accidents, and &quot;stoppie&quot; seems to mean a &quot;trick&quot;, only done for the cool look. Does there exist a name that implies doing this in a mundane way, like when one's commute route just appears to have an angled staircase in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vzKZq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example staircase&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition (if this is not too much to ask in the same question) - how to practice this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T17:24:35.287" Title="Making a very sharp turn by pivoting on your front wheel?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18541" CreationDate="2013-11-28T13:23:54.743" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;In german this is called &quot;Hinterrad versetzen&quot; -- &quot;displacing the back wheel&quot;. I got to learn this in an mtb course I took a while back. If you can, try to find an instructor or other experienced rider to teach you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to practice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start very, very small and always wear full protective gear, i.e. a full-face helmet and vest in case you crash.&lt;/strong&gt; You &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; crash. Be prepared. Have a friend with you just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for an open, empty and even space like a parking lot or similar where you can brake without fear of slipping. If possible, avoid concrete or similar very hard surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you practice the stoppie, without turning. Start small, i.e. just lift your back wheel a couple of centimetres. You don't need to ride very fast, it's mostly about the balance on the bike. It's absolutely possible to do this from a walking pace. Instead of moving your weight far back, as you normally would in a hard stop, keep it (more or less) in front. Find the point where it's easy to lift the back wheel without getting the feeling you will crash any moment. Do this a couple of times. Slowly increase the height of the back wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do only the stoppie until you feel comfortable &quot;standing on your front wheel&quot; for a second or two without losing control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel safe holding the stoppie, try pushing your back wheel around a couple of centimetres by letting the inertia turn the bike. You need only provide the tiniest motion yourself, physics will do the rest. Slowly increase the arc until you are where you want to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note 1.&lt;/strong&gt; If you have front suspension, beware of your fork kicking back when in the stoppie. This can easily overturn you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note 2.&lt;/strong&gt; I wouldn't try this on stairs or a rocky or otherwise dangerous path until I was absolutely sure I can do it. Also, don't force it. Practicing this kind of thing takes time and drains you faster than you think. Try integrating training into normal rides instead of riding out just to train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T13:23:54.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18541" CreationDate="2013-11-28T13:42:56.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called an endo and you can start learning it anywhere right now (e.g in a parking lot). Don't try to learn turning endos or rolling endos at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a good how-to video (doesn't matter that it's on a bmx): &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/9Id792hi6C4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some advanced turning and rolling endos on a mountain bike can be seen at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/video/259956/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/video/259956/&lt;/a&gt; (after 3:30).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T13:42:56.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18539" CreationDate="2013-11-28T17:31:54.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knobs and pavement don't go together. At all. Knobs are made to dig into loose riding surfaces to optimize traction. They can't do that on pavement and, among other reasons, that's why road tires don't have knobs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're likely feeling with the higher profile knob is more warning before the tire cuts loose. The lower profile knobs on the Land Cruiser almost certainly grip pavement better, but offer less warning before they let loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best tire for grip on pavement is a slick. Slicks offer the most rubber in contact with the pavement and the least deformation under side load. The flip side to that coin is that when they're ready to cut loose they offer virtually no warning, and when they're gone they're gone- your chances of recovering traction are nearly zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To kind of answer your bonus question, cornering techniques don't differ so much by tire, but by riding type. There are differing cornering techniques for road vs mountain bike riding. I would say that cornering on dirt is much more dynamic than on pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; in response to your question in the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So basically my question was &quot;[Your third paragraph] - is that normal?&quot; and the answer is &quot;Yup, deal with it.&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of your tire cutting loose, the answer is partially yes, but not entirely. Proper cornering technique and weighting of your bike, especially your front tire, will help you maintain traction. Keep in mind that it's different for road than it is for mountain, but that's a different question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A set of tires specifically designed for pavement would make a huge difference. You're not limited to narrow road slicks either. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/se/en/ftb/cityurban-tires/paved-use-tires/electrak-armadillo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Electrak&lt;/a&gt; is very wide for a slick, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe&lt;/a&gt; has several very wide mostly slick tires that can be run at very low pressures (as in, 20-30psi) which equals a lot of rubber on the road and a lot of traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end though, when you lose the front end on the road it is going to be harder to recover for a variety of reasons. It's not the same as temporarily losing traction in the dirt because you hit an especially loose corner. Traction on the pavement is typically pretty consistent, and you're usually going significantly faster, so when the front tire lets go, it will be very hard to regain traction and stand the bike back up. The tips above will help with the problem but not eliminate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-11-29T16:16:07.837" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T16:16:07.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18549" CreationDate="2013-11-29T00:56:13.423" Score="2" ViewCount="4033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's obvious that the only reason to have aero wheel at front and regular wheel at rear is budget. I did some research on this and what I found was aero front wheel is more important and rear aero wheel is only to help bike handling despite the fact that most people use deeper rear wheels. Most stuff I read were from &gt; years ago, wonder if anything changed (newer wheels handle better in crosswind maybe, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;To clarify, some information that I found claim that using front only aero wheel results in worse handling than having front and rear aero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can anyone confirm this and maybe someone with experience in using such setup. I want to know how bad handling can be with 50 mm front wheel and regular wheel at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastEditorUserId="3042" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T22:38:04.247" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T11:31:13.930" Title="How bad is handling with only front aero wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;handling&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13845" CreationDate="2013-11-29T07:23:52.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An 8 speed drive train will work with any 8 or 9 speed crankset. Chain width is the factor that affects compatibility but there is minimal difference between an 8 and 9 speed chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8,9 and 10 speed systems share the same free hub width so cogs on the cassette are spaced accordingly. The chain for these sets are all different widths to fit the rear cassette. 7 and 11 speed systems have different sized hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-11-29T07:29:22.937" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T07:29:22.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18550" CreationDate="2013-11-29T15:28:56.577" Score="6" ViewCount="2661" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF5K9V2w6W8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;general advice&lt;/a&gt; about cornering is to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORAOAeXNA1A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lean the bike, not the body&lt;/a&gt;, to put pressure on the outside foot, and not to brake or brake only with the rear brake if absolutely needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are differing cornering techniques for road vs mountain bike riding. I would say that cornering on dirt is much more dynamic than on pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--joelmdev&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supposing that what I am saying about cornering on dirt is correct, &lt;strong&gt;how is cornering on (dry) pavement different&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does one lean with the bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the bike stay more upright?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the pressure more evenly spaced among both pedals?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can one get feedback when the (front) tire is about to loose traction?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does &amp;quot;dynamic&amp;quot; mean in this context?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it customary to place the inside foot on the road in order to have three contact points and prevent tipping/sliding out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the weight of the rider evenly spaced (chin over stem, butt over seat)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is standing up to gain additional &amp;quot;acrobatic&amp;quot; space i.e. freedom to more one's weight around rapidly ever used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What about slippery pavement - water, snow, sand?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T02:45:09.983" Title="How is cornering on the road different than cornering on dirt?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18546" CreationDate="2013-11-29T16:22:43.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, running an aero wheel in the back &lt;em&gt;does help&lt;/em&gt; with drag, just not as much as the front. A 50mm section aero wheel in the front with a standard wheel in the back will be fine. It may look a little funny, but it won't make the bike unridable. That said, a deep section rim is a deep section rim, and it will cause some deflection from your course in crosswinds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; in the case of a windy day and front only aero wheel, your front end is going to get pushed around more than your back. If you're running both front and rear aero wheels, you're going to get pushed around more evenly, but you're going to get pushed further. Neither situation is pleasant, especially if you're using clip-ons, but I don't think that going with only a front aero wheel is necessarily worse. It is a setup I've used in the past, and a setup that I think isn't altogether uncommon in lower categories as racers are more likely to borrow just a front from a fellow racer for a cat 5 time trial. If you're dead set on getting an aero wheel I wouldn't let potential handling differences vs a full set stop you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-12-03T01:22:12.953" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T01:22:12.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18548" CreationDate="2013-11-29T16:51:45.357" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, let's answer the first to questions together, as they are closely related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does one lean with the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the bike stay more upright?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answers are yes and yes in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To elaborate, let's take a look at what you're trying to achieve when cornering. I found this image recently and I think it does a great job of visualizing the basic physics of what's happening when you take a corner on a bike: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSugq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a turn, whether you're leaning the bike, or your body, or both, that &quot;local gravity&quot; line is what's keeping you from highsiding or lowsiding. The center of gravity and that center line just moves depending on what you're leaning and how low you're getting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a search for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=mountain%20bike%20cornering&amp;amp;client=firefox&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-US:unofficial&amp;amp;channel=fflb&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=9zidUtTgL8v5kQelooCICA&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=967&quot;&gt;mountain bike cornering&lt;/a&gt; and a search for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=road%20bike%20cornering&amp;amp;client=firefox&amp;amp;hs=7O1&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-US:unofficial&amp;amp;channel=fflb&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=ADmdUriAI4jtkQexwYCYBw&amp;amp;ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=967&quot;&gt;road bike cornering&lt;/a&gt;. Notice how centered the road riders are compared to the mountain bikers.&#xA;One of the big reasons for the &quot;lean the bike&quot; advice is to engage the more aggressive side knobs on a mountain bike tire. On a road bike this is not necessary. &#xA;With a mountain bike you spend a lot of time skirting the line of traction. You lose it and regain it often. Many of the techniques for cornering on a mountain bike are to keep you on the traction side of that line and to recover without crashing when you cross it. Many of these techniques aren't applicable on a road bike, where in most cases you either have traction or you've just crashed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also notice on the mountain bike cornering images that in big berms the riders are typically more centered over the bike, sharing the posture of the cornering roadies. That's because when traction isn't an issue being centered over the bike is the most balanced and stable way through a turn, and that's why you see road riders using that posture most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the pressure more evenly spaced among both pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The advice on weighting of the pedals and the bars stays the same. Drop the outside pedal and weight it primarily, weight the inside handlebar. Note that the primary reason that you're weighting the inside bar is to initiate countersteer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How can one get feedback when the (front) tire is about to loose traction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got everything weighted properly and you're lucky, the back will cut before the front does, at which point you've got a fraction of a second to stand the bike back up, or you crash. If the front goes first, you crash. A lot of knowing the limits of road bike tire traction comes from experience, and crashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What does &quot;dynamic&quot; mean in this context?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot more movement of your body on and over the bike on a trail than on the road. The more technical the trail, the more this is true. The &quot;lean the bike, not the body&quot; advice is a good rule of thumb, but it is not a one size fits all solution for mountain biking. There are so many different types of turns in mountain biking- fast, slow, bermed, off-camber, uphill, downhill, steep, flat, loose, rocky hardpacked, etc, and nearly infinite combinations of each. Many categories of turns deserve their own questions for cornering technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it customary to place the inside foot on the road in order to have three contact points and prevent tipping/sliding out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically not during the turn. I've seen it done it the wet sometimes, but taking your foot out/off of the pedal during a turn will affect up your balance, especially on a road bike. Getting your foot out of pedal at the last minute is really hard, especially with road pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the weight of the rider evenly spaced (chin over stem, butt over seat)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhat dependent on slope/incline and speed, and whether you're on the hoods or in the drops, but largely yes, this is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is standing up to gain additional &quot;acrobatic&quot; space i.e. freedom to more one's weight around rapidly ever used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a road bike, typically only for slow speed maneuvers. There are probably exceptions but I can't think of them at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What about slippery pavement - water, snow, sand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sloooow dooown. The more treacherous the riding surface, the more upright you need to keep the bike and your body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-12-03T02:19:21.363" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T02:19:21.363" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18541" CreationDate="2013-11-29T17:24:35.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called a stoppie or a nose wheelie- in some regions I suppose they call it an endo as well, though where I'm from an endo is going over the bars in a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of how to practice, arne's advice for protective gear is wise. I would also use caution if you use clipless pedals. They can help you lift the back of the bike off the ground, but if you lose your balance and unclipping is not 2nd nature to you, you may not be able to get your foot down in time to prevent falling over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice all of this at slow speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, you need to get comfortable with getting the back wheel off of the ground. Practice locking up the front brake until the back wheel comes off the ground. You don't need to get it high, just get comfortable with getting it up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you have that, practice doing this with your butt off the saddle and giving a little hop as you gradually apply the brakes. This will make the back wheel come off the ground much easier, so &lt;strong&gt;be cautious&lt;/strong&gt; that you don't go over the bars. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work on getting some hang time on this maneuver. Note that your really don't need to be close to the tipping point to do this efficiently. If you find yourself tipping over the bars, thrust your butt backwards behind the saddle to tip back the other way, at which point you can release the brakes to drop the wheel quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you're comfortable with just the stoppie, you can start adding the pivot. This is the tricky part. Imagine that you have your hands on the corner of a table, and you're hopping up while pushing off of the table to pivot around to the other side of it. That's basically what you're doing with this maneuver, only your table only has one leg. Practice this against a table. Really. It will help. You're basically jumping forward and to the side as the back wheel pops up to twist the back of the bike around the front wheel, which is acting as your pivot point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be ready to dab (that means put your foot down), but don't just assume that you're going to need to dab everytime you try this. &lt;em&gt;Try&lt;/em&gt; to stick it. This seems like simple advice, but you'd be surprised how important it is to mentally prepare yourself for success when attempting something new like this, whether it be a difficult section of trail or a maneuver like this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T17:24:35.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-29T19:32:09.870" Score="4" ViewCount="12279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a good bike for college. I need to be able to go across paved roads, brick roads, cut across grass- and possibly jump down 5-6 stairs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video is from the school I plan to attend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/oT18G-WoKq0?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My price range is $400-$600&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need a road bike? Dual sport? Mountain bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8679" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T17:37:36.980" Title="What is a good bike for college?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18554" CreationDate="2013-11-29T20:21:35.843" Score="5" ViewCount="10798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old 2001 Schwinn Homegrown Pro that I want to upgrade to a 10-speed drivetrain. I'd like to do it myself as a learning exercise, but I'm not sure what kind of tool I need to remove the old bottom bracket (or to install the new one, for that matter). The crank is a Deore XT Hollowtech FC-M751, but I am not sure what the bottom bracket is.  The original specs of the bike are at this page&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2001&amp;amp;brand=Schwinn&amp;amp;model=Homegrown+Pro#.Upj1FMRDspU&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2001&amp;amp;brand=Schwinn&amp;amp;model=Homegrown+Pro#.Upj1FMRDspU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it lists the bottom bracket as &quot;unspecifed.&quot;  It's dark in color and has inside-facing splines, but there are no obvious markings on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what do I need in order to remove this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NumI2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4164" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T21:56:49.177" Title="What tools do I need to replace my bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18553" CreationDate="2013-11-29T21:27:56.923" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As this is an older octalink crankset/BB you will require a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank Extractor like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/crank-puller-for-splined-cranks-ccp-44&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to remove the cranks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Bracket tool like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-32&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to remove the bottom bracket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dust cap removal tool (if it has these) like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/pin-spanner-red-spa-2&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 or 10mm hex wrench for crank bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is likely to require a lot of effort to free up after 12 years so I'd recommend a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-9&quot;&gt;repair stand&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fitting a new 10 speed crankset (at Deore, SLX, XT etc level) it's likely you'll need to move to a threaded external bearing BB such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-xtslx-m770m660-bottom-bracket-cup-set/&quot;&gt;Shimano BB70&lt;/a&gt; which will probably come with the crank set you purchase. This requires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;External bottom bearing tool like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-9&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to install the bottom bracket and no other tools.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was on the Park Tools site so used their tools as examples, many brands make similar tools. They also have a good reference section to learn how to work on a bike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would recommend trying to borrow the tools to remove the BB from your LBS rather than purchasing new as the standard for mountain bikes has changed to (many different) external bearings systems. It may end up you purchase them for this job and never use again....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-11-29T21:56:49.177" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T21:56:49.177" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18552" CreationDate="2013-11-29T21:31:33.853" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important thing for a college campus (and commuting in general in places where there are a lot of potentially not nice people) is to have a cheap bike and locking it properly - in particular, one that doesn't attract attention. Old and scuffed up bikes are best for this. I think an old mountain bike or flat bar hybrid (like a 80s/early 90s specialized hardrock/rockhopper or an old giant boulder is ideal) with a rack attached are pretty good options, along with some slick tires and lights and a helmet. The total for this should be around 210 dollars (lets say 150 for the bike + any work it needs done like derailleur adjustments, possibly new tires, etc., a helmet for 30 and lights for 30). Add 30 if you want a cheap rack, and another 40 or so for a decent lock (say, a Kryptonite evo mini, or if you're paranoid spend a bit more and get a Kryptonitefahgettiboutit). A U-lock is recommended - chain locks give you a bit more diversity for locking things, but they're too heavy to carry around for good ones (and most campuses which are bike friendly have plenty of places where you can ulock to). Fenders/mudguards may also be a decent investment for rain (though college students are a mess anyway, so I don't think it makes much difference). I don't think a road bike is necessarily a great idea given the short distances involved and the not necessarily useful geometry for commuting on most of them. However, if you do find one which you like, take it out for a spin and see how it does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask around the community and see whats there for used bike shops and try to find a decent bike there - you'll also probably get some help on fit there as well. Jumping down stairs depends highly on the type of stairs, but it is too reckless behavior for most college campuses. If you are hitting a lot of bumps while commuting, a rigid bike with fat smooth tires or one with front suspension may be helpful (though, I think for 99.99% of commuters, rigid is the way to go). Stay away from full suspension (which you will only find on the Walmart level of bikes). Also, it is good to have non-quick release wheels + seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2013-12-01T03:26:41.347" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T03:26:41.347" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18552" CreationDate="2013-11-30T11:39:32.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick note on pannier racks: I switched from a rucksack to panniers in my second undergrad year, and I must admit that it wasn't incredibly useful at first. Carrying a few books and lecture notes, a rucksack is only inconvenient on the bike if you're cycling more than a few miles. But then when you arrive and get off, you're probably spending a few hours carting that bag around lecture halls and libraries, which is much easier with a rucksack than a pannier bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, there's a trade-off. While you're on the bike, if you've heavy cargo (such as groceries) or a long distance to travel, it's much easier to make the bike carry the load in panniers. But when you get off, if you're walking around, a rucksack is easier to carry. Some pannier bags have shoulder straps to make that easier, but I find with my Ortlieb Back Rollers the straps are too much faff. You can also find pannier bags that transform into rucksacks, but I've no experience with those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a rack on the bike means that even if you think a rucksack is the best option, you can change your mind later, or have both and use them at different times (e.g. panniers for shopping, rucksack for lectures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A last quick note: if you can't afford to invest in a fully waterproof rucksack or panniers (they're a good investment when you can!), keep a plastic bin bag in them to stop your books getting wet in the rain. Also, you might want to stuff a plastic bag under your saddle, so it's handy to keep that dry when it rains. You don't want a damp bum distracting you in lectures, or inviting speculation on your nights out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T11:39:32.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-30T17:08:24.913" Score="4" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a short cycle to work and back every day (under 30mins each way.) Because I could quite feasibly walk the journey, I've always wanted a bike that needs as little tinkering with as possible, as if I have to do much of that, I may as well just walk. I also much prefer the traditional &quot;sit up and beg&quot; riding position, because I find for my kind of cycling, performance is unimportant and I would rather be comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Sparta Atlas (Dutch bike), which is almost perfect. 7-speed hub gear / brakes / dynamo hub, enclosed chain, and I've fitted it with LED lights and Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres that seem unpuncturable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, where it is not perfect is (a) it is very heavy, I think mainly due to the 7-speed hub, (b) it seems to get through bottom brackets very fast. First one went after two years, and the second one I think is about to go. But worse, last time I found it hard to track down the part in the UK. The shop I bought it from (Cambridge Station Cycles) no longer deal with Sparta, and I tried various other local bike shops who said they couldn't get it. In the end, I got an electric bike dealer to order the part, which I then took to another shop to have fitted!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if it is time to get something else, because we are about to move to Birmingham, and am figuring if I struggle to find these parts in Cambridge I may struggle a lot more in other places. Also, the heaviness of the bike is not an issue here where it is very flat, but may become more of an issue depending where exactly we move to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I cannot justify spending lots of money when I will probably still only have a short commute. So I could just get the Sparta fixed and see how it goes - or I could try and find something second-hand to replace it with. I thought about an old British 3-speeder perhaps. Or I did once try a Giant Expression N3 and liked it, but not sure if either of these options would be any more hardy than the Sparta in the long run (which, when it comes down to it, is a good bike, just seems to have an achillies heel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be very welcome. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8682" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T17:08:24.913" Title="Recommendations for low-maintenance &quot;town&quot; bike" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2013-12-16T22:17:50.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18563" CreationDate="2013-12-01T01:45:21.417" Score="6" ViewCount="4306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a short commute in Paris (about 7 km / 30 minutes each way) and I am seriously considering adding a camera (maybe 2) to my bike to be able to report dangerous behaviour and also generally because it's fun and interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of great footage on the web but I wonder how they get such a stable picture. I guess that helmet mounted cameras produce an inherently more stable picture but I also heard of stabilizing software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is I don't wear a helmet and I would like to fix my camera to the handlebar. My bike (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikester.fr/334069.html&quot;&gt;Cross Areal CR&lt;/a&gt;) has suspension in the front, however I'm not sure it's enough to dampen the road shake, though my route is mostly on smooth asphalt (some potholes, some old paved passages).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does mounting a camera on the handlebar mean that I must invest in a more expensive stabilized camera or do you find that most cameras work just a well? Are there any tricks to getting a stable picture with such a setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8643" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T10:48:26.190" Title="Will mounting a camera on the handlebar instead of the helmet make the picture more shaky?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18561" CreationDate="2013-12-01T06:36:50.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will mounting a camera on the handlebar instead of the helmet make the picture more shaky?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. The helmet mount provides the most stable video because any terrain roughness has already been absorbed by your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to shakeness the handlebars mount will provide a not so pleasant video because it will constantly be panning left and right due to the automatic microadjustments you do to keep you riding straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...  to be able to report dangerous behaviour ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more important reason to mount it to you head is that you'll most probably end up with the correct footage. The handlebars do not always point to where we are looking. Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;while cornering you look at where you want to go but the handlebars do not (yet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pointing your head elsewhere while riding straight is obviously very common when you want to make a safe lane change, pass a green light etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does mounting a camera on the handlebar mean that I must invest in a more expensive stabilized camera&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can stabilize later with software. Although it needs a bit of experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any tricks to getting a stable picture with such a setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No but you can try mounting on the head tube. It'll provide a pretty solid video, but always pointing straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T06:36:50.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18561" CreationDate="2013-12-01T10:01:03.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cameras on bikes are a trade-off. I run my camera from the handlebars, but it can be very shaky particularly depending on the road surface: on a newly paved road it can be almost perfect, but on cobbles it's almost useless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly you can helmet mount, but then you can look quite silly. (The cuboid Go Pros on top of a helmet just look ridiculous.) There are some advantages though, it's definitely more stable (as @cherouvim correctly points out - your neck and body are great shock absorbers) and it means that you are getting the camera to record (more or less) what you are looking at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're planning on being able to use the footage to report problems, then it is going to be much more flexible to be able to point the camera dynamically. The lack of a helmet isn't the end of the road though, I use a Contour camera and they've got headband, cap and helmet mounts - so while you'll need some form of headwear, it needn't be a helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the shake can be mitigated with a fast frame rate and post-production, but it'll be easier if it wasn't there in the first place and the best way for that is not to mount it on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T10:01:03.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18561" CreationDate="2013-12-01T10:48:26.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;More shaky: yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run a fairly cheap &quot;kaiser baas&quot; camera mounted on my handlebars. It took a bit of work to get a stable video - after some experiments I put a layer of rubber around the handlebars (very large rubber bands) then tightened the mounting as much as possible. The result is acceptable for me. Certainly big potholes and very rough sections cause poor video. The rough sections can also transmit noise to the audio pickip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to another reply, I find that small steering movements are almost undetectable in the video, because of the angle of view of the camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unrelated to your question, I find that when I run the camera I am a safer rider: somebody is watching me! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T10:48:26.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18548" CreationDate="2013-12-01T11:33:59.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cornering a road bike at speed&lt;/strong&gt; (revised after feedback from joelmdev)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firstly your tires &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt; - near the maximum pressure written on the side wall. Riding soft tires is a recipe for death under oncoming traffic, because they don't have as much grip and just slide out from under you. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For wet or loose surfaces, &lt;em&gt;slow down&lt;/em&gt;. In these conditions, all your MTB cornering techniques apply. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For dry conditions and a trustworthy surface, at low speed you can do whatever you like. The real technique is for higher speeds: 30 kph (20mph) and up.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At speed you must lean with the bike. You lean the bike to make it corner, rather than steer it. At these speeds your weight should be evenly distributed between handlebars and pedals: no weight on your seat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At low speeds you would have the outside pedal low, partly to stop the inside pedal hitting the ground in tight corners. But at higher speeds, you need to be balanced and more responsive. Having one pedal low means you are pretty much on your seat, and if anything lets go your weight just pushes it faster. You see the pro riders in this position - they are ready to put on the power as soon as they can, are absolutely sure of the surface, can see through the corner, and have rock hard tires. When those things are not all true, I prefer the pedals to be horizontal, with either foot forward, evenly weighted.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hands on brakes. If you must brake, do it evenly. Test your brakes before entering a fast turn, and use them &lt;em&gt;evenly&lt;/em&gt; in the event that the corner tightens or you hear that tell-tale noise the front tire makes before stepping out. Be as gentle as you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For faster corners move your weight back slightly more. If the back starts to slide you can correct by bringing your weight forward and counter steering, but if the front goes you are toast. So get your weight back more. You really need &lt;em&gt;lots&lt;/em&gt; of practice before going faster. There is almost no time to react. You have to learn the &quot;feel&quot; of when it's going to let go (the front tire often makes a different scrubbing sound, but not always). You can lose a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of skin if that happens! So don't go fast on corners you don't know yet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Never change your line through the corner unless a crash is imminent. At high speed changing your line is virtually guaranteed disaster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you get even faster (60-80 kph, 35-50 mph) the bike gets more stable on the road due to the gyroscope effect of the wheels. At these speeds the consequences of errors can be fatal. A new risk is that if you don't lean with the bike the cornering forces can pull the tire off. From experience I can tell you that the wheels stop rotating half a turn after that as the tire jams in the forks, and then you head off on your own. The landing is not pleasant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have written is counter to a lot of the wisdom found on bicycles.stackexchange.com. The difference I think is in the context; here I am talking about cornering &lt;em&gt;at speed&lt;/em&gt;. My source is the 50+ years of cycling I have experienced, starting from growing up in a hilly area, in a cycle-racing family. I first exceeded 100 kph (60 mph) in 1970, and almost every week one of my rides includes one very tight corner taken at 40 kph (25 mph), as fast as the cars can do it, and another taken at 50+ kph (30 mph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T02:45:09.983" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T02:45:09.983" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17816" CreationDate="2013-12-01T21:54:16.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my master link fail on the weekend. It had been reused 5 times, and separated itself from the rest of the chain at the base of a 4k climb. Will be replacing it each time from now on. I was lucky that the chain didn't go through the spokes, damage the bike or go under the wheel and cause a pile up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8686" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T21:54:16.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12707" CreationDate="2013-12-02T01:55:00.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had annoying creaks too.  I found that the where the shifter cable housings where attached to the bike frame was the cause.  I loosened the cable housing from the frame, and then applied a dab of grease to the housing and frame.  The creaking went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the creaking returns, I think I will try Teflon tape on the cable housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8687" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T01:55:00.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18377" CreationDate="2013-12-02T03:39:04.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like that Park tool is specifically designed for use on PF30 BB's (+1 for using the right tool). Just curious though, how do the bushings line up with the BB? What surface do they push against? If they push against the inner race, you may well have damaged the bearing. If they push against the outer race or the bearing cup you should be fine. The bearing (i.e. internal race) isn't designed for purely lateral loading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o39Wh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you certain that it didn't have any stiff spots before installation? You can try popping it out and free spinning it in your hand. If its still stiff outside the frame its certainly damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you pressed the bearing cup in completely bass-akwards it shouldn't bind the bearing. The outer race and cup are thick enough that it would take serious damage/force to deform the outer shape of the bearing to cause any noticeable friction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address one of the comments: If this is new it shouldn't have any stiff spots. Even the cheapest bearing should spin smoothly out of the box. Putting the crank on will change the inertia of the system and only make it harder to detect these spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T03:39:04.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18367" CreationDate="2013-12-02T03:56:01.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its likely disassembles in one of two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two cone wrenches (one on each side of the hub) to remove the jam nuts. This is the likely option. From your photo it looks like there is a flat spot on the jam nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two hex wrenches (one on each side of the hub) that fit into the axle end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DcszT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two videos demonstrating these techniques:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://aol.it/15nYDub&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://aol.it/15nYDub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://aol.it/Ioc7T2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://aol.it/Ioc7T2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T03:56:01.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8781" CreationDate="2013-12-02T10:11:30.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some (subjective) &lt;strong&gt;Pros of helmet mounted light&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shines where you are looking at. This is an excellent feature, refer to &lt;em&gt;zenbike&lt;/em&gt;'s anwer as to why.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The angle of the light is such that you can easily estimate the depth of road or trail pits. With handlebar mounted lights all holes look bottomless!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It goes with the helmet. You can never forget it, never mind how sleepy you are before mounting that commuter bike Monday morning. Never mind the &quot;I'm going straight home from work tonight, I ain't needing no damn light.&quot; It goes with the helmet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't have to worry if it will be stolen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When there are other riders coming against you, you can look a little sideways, thus not blinding them. But a properly mounted handlebar light should be pointed in the ground 5 meters in front, so it also should be no problem. Never blind your buddies!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, the first point is all that matters to me. Not sure why all other answers in this thread condemn it. I have owned powerful handlebar light. I have owned a weak helmet mounted light. The latter is much more comfortable for mild trail downhill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T11:21:22.690" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T11:21:22.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8781" CreationDate="2013-12-02T10:32:33.497" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You haven't said what country you're riding in or whether it's on or off-road, and this makes a big legal difference. In the UK at least, if you're riding on the road you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; have a white front light &lt;strong&gt;on your bike&lt;/strong&gt;. In addition, the light &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; be on the centre-line on your bike, or to the off-side of that (i.e. towards the centre of the road). It must not be on the near-side (the half nearer the kerb) because that might give other road users a false idea of your position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this country, only lights attached to your bike count: any lights or reflectives on your person (clothes, helmet, or anything else) are irrelevant. If you're riding with only helmet light(s), you are not legally lit. At first glance, this might not seem to matter, as it's unlikely the police would stop you, even when they're specifically targeting unlit bikes, but in the event of an accident, being legally unlit would make it much harder for you to make a claim against the other party, even if the accident is their fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T23:25:47.903" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T23:25:47.903" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18540" CreationDate="2013-12-02T12:23:34.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake early and gently. lean softly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T12:23:34.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18540" CreationDate="2013-12-02T17:30:15.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cornering is cornering. There really isn't any difference in the physics. What is different is the unpredictable friction of the surface you are cornering on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things you can do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Improve the predicability of the friction of your tires. Studded bike snow tires will help the most with this, but even switching to a tire with a more robust tread and wider profile can help. Lowering the tire pressure will also help a little as this increases the contact patch and lets the tire conform better to uneven surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't push the limits of what friction you have. These means generally riding slower, braking more gently and turning at slower speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn to react quickly and correctly when the friction does disappear. Find someplace safe and experiment with the limits of friction on snow. Make slow speed turns and try braking with both front and back wheels. Be very cautious with the front wheel, even at slow speeds loosing the front wheel traction can be a very hard fall. With practice you can learn to use your momentum to reestablish traction. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to spend a lot of time on snow, studded bike tires are well worth the investment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T17:30:15.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18577" CreationDate="2013-12-02T21:54:21.687" Score="7" ViewCount="3702" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had consumer battery powered LED bicycle lights fail mid ride without the battery being at fault.  This has been spread across brands, weather conditions, ride lengths.  The most recent failure is a rear blinkie that dies on a 6km commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors I've tested:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water proofing.  This causes one light to fail and later recover.  But not the other which is adequately sealed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery contact patches / corrosion.  This caused a third light to fail intermittantly, but isn't present in the currently failing light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shock.  I can't produce a shock that causes the blinkie to turn itself off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battery life.  I've put it on to test if it fades over half an hour.  It doesn't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastEditorUserId="4444" LastEditDate="2013-12-03T00:19:54.607" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T13:51:25.957" Title="Why do consumer battery powered LED lights fail mid ride" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18574" CreationDate="2013-12-02T22:59:34.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ride with two, because with something so useful in maintaining metabolic integrity, redundancy is your friend. If it fails, take it back to the store.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overseas manufacturing drives everyone else out of the market, so if you go to a local electronics shop to make one for you with highest quality components, you end up paying through the nose for something which looks like it was homebuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8607" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T22:59:34.150" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18574" CreationDate="2013-12-03T00:34:12.833" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience cheap lights die, and some more expensive designs are prone to failure. Bike shops sell cheap lights because that's all some people will buy, and better they have a dodgy light than no light (there are enough cyclists without lights already).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the factors you list come down to one or two factors, depending on whether you consider &quot;built to an excessively low price point&quot; to be a factor. The other is poor design. It's not easy to make a bike light that works, and doing so costs money. If you search for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=kickstarter%20bike%20light&quot;&gt;bike lights on kickstarter&lt;/a&gt; those projects often document the design and testing (which is one of the few places you can read about it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had lights intermittently turn themselves off while riding, and that's either something hitting the on-off button or the batteries momentarily disconnecting when bumped. Rather than reproduce the latter I prefer to add conductive spacers with the batteries and see whether that solves the problem - add a chunk cut from a tin can or 5-10 thicknesses of aluminium foil at one end of each battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect to pay ~$40-$60 in Sydney for a decent rear light, maybe $30 online, and if they don't last at least a year I take them back. And I do take them back. Maybe 5% fail within a month. For front lights I pay the same as a rear one for a blinky, ~$100 for a &quot;to see by&quot; light. But I also DIY and use dyno lights (more expensive up front, heavier, but cheaper in the long term).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is easier if you're running multiple bikes, whether for yourself, your household, or your group of friends. Or you have a decent LBS. Buy 2-3 different lights to test, pick the one you all like the most and buy one (or more ) each, plus a couple of spares. That way you know you're getting something that works, and have a communal spares pool. You can get a similar effect by buying what everyone else has. But buy &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what they have, a lot of bike lights look very similar and a cheap clone is not the same as the real thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have lights regularly last until the LEDs are so dim the light is worthless. Specifically, I have a box full of &quot;bike lights and bits&quot; in the garage that contains 5-10 rear lights and 3-4 front ones, none of which I would use today as my primary light (I use them on trailers and take them to group rides to lower the suicide rate). The front ones I expecte to fail, white LEDs have a finite, short life that in a &quot;every weekday in the winter&quot; light means 2-3 years. Rear ones mostly just fall to the progression in LED efficiency, in that &quot;the same&quot; light bought next year will be noticeably brighter (front ones too, obviously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T00:34:12.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-03T01:42:51.187" Score="9" ViewCount="2232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a SON hub dynamo and have recently upgraded my front light (the old light and the dynamo are ~10 years old). The new one is much brighter than the old and has a USB outlet for charging stuff, so I'm very happy with that (Lumotec Eyc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want from a rear light is something like the &quot;superflash&quot; red LED lights, but any kind of blinking would be acceptable. Ideally I'd like one that has both constant and blinking LEDs but I have enough power available to run two, so I'm willing to keep my existing light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run my dyno lights constantly, day and night, so having an &quot;off&quot; switch is not necessary (and slightly undesirable), I'd be quite happy with a light that simply flashes whenever power is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with much searching I have not been able to find anything. I am specifically not interested in the &quot;reelight&quot; things, they will not work for me (and I recommend against them in general, they flash too slowly and too dimly). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=15660334&quot;&gt;This thread on bikeradar&lt;/a&gt; didn't turn up anything. I suspect part of the problem is that blinking bike lights are not legal in Germany, home of all the good bike light manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would love a link to one that I can buy, if anyone has one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit in comments) People suggest I DIY, but this question arises from my attempts to DIY. I have built my own bike lights before, and it's hard to make something robust and reliable. Waterproof is a particular issue. Since the original question I have run a light designed for two AAA batteries off the rectified and smoothed dynamo output for a couple of months. Despite my efforts to seal around the hole where the wires went in the light failed after about 3 months of winter riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently running the SeeSense motion sensing battery light and liking the fact that I only have to touch it when I take it off to charge it - it goes into standby automatically when the bike isn't moving. But if I charge it, it stops flashing and has to be manually turned on once charging stops. So I can't possibly use that as a dyno powered light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T23:30:19.650" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T23:30:19.650" Title="Are there Dynamo powered, rear flashing lights?" Tags="&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" FavoriteCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-05-10T12:25:36.020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18540" CreationDate="2013-12-03T02:27:24.137" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's different insofar as walking on ice is different from walking on concrete. Traction is reduced anywhere from somewhat to greatly. It takes a much smaller change in direction, much smaller amount of braking, and much shallower lean angle in a turn to cause you to break traction. In terms of the physics and techniques involved, they're the same, though mountain bike techniques come in handy as you are likely to spend much more of your time without traction compared to typical riding on paved surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T02:27:24.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18465" CreationDate="2013-12-03T02:30:13.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try engaging the chain whip on different cogs of the cassette. Overlap the chain on the chain whip so that it binds itself in place if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T02:30:13.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2013-12-03T03:21:34.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being 240 LBs and now being on my third bike I thought I would throw this in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I destroyed a department store bike in 3 months of commuting on roads. It started failing after a month. Don't touch these unless bike security is a problem. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I replaced this with a $1000 MTB. Within a year the entry level shocks had gone even though I was only commuting. I would suggest if you are a heavy rider and you want shocks, you will want quality shocks. Its hard enough riding hills with a solid fork but its a lot harder with a failed fork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 12 months my rear wheel started breaking spokes. Such is life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After 15 Months the aluminium frame broke at a join (chain stay and crank shell) and I entered the warranty time hole. If you’re a heavy rider and want an aluminium or Carbon bike you need a quality frame, the manufacturing of these materials has very little room for error.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I ride a Surly disk trucker, it’s been 7 months and all is well. I don't commute anymore but do 25 mile morning rides with plenty of hills 3 times a week. Fingers crossed the Surly will hold up it’s a nice ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8693" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-12-03T16:25:43.330" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T16:25:43.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18465" CreationDate="2013-12-03T07:02:46.827" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried holding your tool like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWXw8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Way to hold your tools&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have just discovered it (instead of the classical &quot;one tool per hand&quot; technique) and it helped a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5526" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T07:02:46.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18465" CreationDate="2013-12-03T10:32:23.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should secure the cassette lockring removal tool with the quick release skewer or axle bolt, just enough to hold it in place (although some removal tools don't have a hole in the middle for you to do this).  This means you can use more force without fear of the tool slipping.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then use a long handled wrench (spanner) and chain whip. A box-end wrench (ring spanner) will give you more purchase. Otherwise use a vice in place of the wrench (spanner) and just turn the chain whip counterclockwise when looking from the side of the wheel not fixed in the vice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When using the wrench and chain whip, if you can't push the two tools toward each other to remove the cassette, you can inflate the tire fully, and go for the most mechanical advantage by having the spanner and whip handles forming a v with angles of about 120-150 degrees. Then push down on both handles. This does run some risk of damaging your wheel though, so only try this as a last resort.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can also try putting the chain whip on the larger sprockets for more purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T10:32:23.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18574" CreationDate="2013-12-03T10:46:37.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I put my main rear light on my wife's road bike, on the pannier rack, it will switch itself off. On my hybrid on the same potholed commute it doesn't.  Unless I ride straight off a kerb, when it might.  That sounds like shock to me given the difference in tyres (100psi 700x23, 65psi 700x35) and the subjective feel of the ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a little blinky die from water ingress, but that was pretty much a bow wave from my front wheel.  Dried out it kind of works but the switch is corroded an unreliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I strongly suspect shock on the battery terminals in your case - maybe the frequency of the bouncing affects it.  Perhaps repeating the ride with the terminals taped or wedged to the battery might answer it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further suggestion though - if the batteries are on the way out, it's possible that the higher internal resistance on a cold ride would cause them to drop in voltage quicker than indoors, and possibly cause the light to cut out.  But I wouldn't expect this to be an issue in blinkies, only in something designed to use rechargeable batteries.  If your ride was cold, perhaps try leaving it on in the fridge or even freezer for an experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of solutions: multiple rear lights are the way to go - they help define your size as well as giving redundancy.  I'm now up to 2 steady on the bike, plus a rather weak flashing one in the saddle, then a flashing rear light modded into the battery box of a head torch on my helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T10:46:37.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18540" CreationDate="2013-12-03T14:30:00.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience of riding on snow both with a fully loaded touring bike and with a mountain bike. With the touring bike do your best to keep the bike upright and turn in short stages. As previously mentioned brake early and turn gently. However, if you are cornering at speed the best idea would be to stick a dabbing leg out if you feel the tyres are slipping away. If you ride on snow you will get some bite with normal tyres but it will wash out intermittently. You can go for some studded or spike tyres and these can allow you to ride happily on snow at any speed. I once saw a guide riding up a piste like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T14:30:00.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14517" CreationDate="2013-12-03T16:22:18.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cut up a leather belt and use it to line the inside of my tyres. Its a trick my grandad showed me 20 year ago... Its not puncher proof but they are rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hope this helps you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also wrap tape around the wheel to put a barrier between your spokes and inner tube because they can pinch your tubes causing them to deflate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8696" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T16:22:18.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18552" CreationDate="2013-12-03T17:37:36.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ride like that video, and you won't make it to sophomore year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for protecting the bike, you might consider a fixie - most people wouldn't be able to ride it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T17:37:36.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8781" CreationDate="2013-12-03T19:47:38.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will too answer that the best is to have both lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's more failsafe but also give you a broader light spread. Different answers point out that lightsources being close to eye level make things look flat and reflection from mist, fog and suspended particles are more an issue, but also, handlebar mounted lights can cause long shadows behind objects not so tall, making it appear like a false hole. Some answer mentions it makes potholes looking bottomless.A low placed light is also more easily blocked by other riders if you ride in a group. Having both lights gives you the advantage of both and one is likely to overcome the disadvantages of the other at the expense of a few extra grams and an extra battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The helmet light is extremely handy if yo need to make roadside repairs, because you don't need an extra hand just to aim the light. For mountain biking I prefer the helmet mounted, because it is more stable (less shaky) than the handlebar. I've even had complaints from fellow riders that the shaky light is distracting. For night city riding the handlebar light is almost enough, but I like having also the helmet one to make me more visible to other road users, particularly when crossing streets, as you naturally look to the sides, you temporarily shine the light into drivers and pedestrians, which will draw their attention. Proper bike lights shine only a portion of their light to the sides, so they are less visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help with eye level reflection, I recommend installing the light as high as possible on the helmet, this helps noticeably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T19:47:38.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18540" CreationDate="2013-12-04T07:41:52.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the answers above:  Whenever possible lower the angle of your turn, make it as wide as possible.  Although each turn has an 'actual radius', which can be quite tight, you can always increase your 'effective radius' by pulling away from the turn before and after the corner, but cutting close to the corner at the midpoint of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k5PiQ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger the effective radius of your turn the less sideways force your tires' friction needs combat and the less you will need to lean, the two culprits for having your bike go sliding sideways from under you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're on a path just cut as close as you can, assuming no one else is in the way.  Hit the far side of the path going into the turn, turn gradually but aim to pass close to the corner, and follow that arc through to end at the correct angle after the turn on the far side of the path as well, where you can leisurely adjust yourself.  You'll find many bike paths are planned for this and are already widened around the turns (or unplanned but use has increased them there).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're on a road just shift to the far side of the traffic lane before the turn, as a bike you've plenty of space. Although it may be more important here to note where car traffic has been heaviest and avoid the compacted icy parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7907" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T07:41:52.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2013-12-04T14:35:43.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was a daily bike commuter in the 325lb range for almost two years. I rode both a restored '70s Raleigh Record Ace street bike and an Electra Townie 21D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lessons Learned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bike frames and seatposts are really, really tough. As long as you aren't boulder-hopping or crashing over pot-holes at speed, it's unlikely you'll break one, especially a new aluminum MTB, as they're way over-engineered (well, Electra's is, at any rate.) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The stock seatpost clamp on the new MTB was too weak to maintain seat height, and was replaced by a generic yet beefy aluminum component (ebay is a great source for these kind of components - also scored a &quot;brake booster&quot; which I used for mounting the front fender).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Suspension forks are useless. You'll be bouncing non-stop as you pedal. Go for fixed forks, or plan to swap out the suspension forks for an aftermarket fixed fork if you can't find a model you like. I did this on the Electra - had the added fun of swapping from a threaded to a threadless headset, as I was unable to find a threaded, suspension-corrected fork in the right size. The difference was night and day, especially on steep hill climbs and fast straightaways.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The plastic pedals or skinny &quot;rat-trap&quot; pedals that come stock are pretty weak, and I bent them easily. BMX platform pedals are cheap, indestructible and work well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Vintage bearings are pretty weak - especially the bottom bracket, I went through more than a few re-packs - upgrade to quality modern BB cartridges and wheelsets. Modern MTB bearings are bulletproof for casual riding or commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Invest in good wheels - not expensive ultra-light wheels, but quality rims and spokes. Hand-built is nice, but name-brand wheelsets from the factory and tuned by the bike shop proved plenty tough. The generic stock wheels on the vintage bike and the new MTB were both not up to the task, and needed constant truing, often mid-ride.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Invest in puncture-proof tires, and keep them inflated, check the pressure often. Heavier riders will pick up more glass shards, sharp rocks, tire wires, lost screws and can fragments, as the rubber presses down harder. Once I switched to Conti Gatorskins on the roadie and CST puncture-proof hybrid tires on the MTB, issues with constant flats pretty much went away so long as the tires were properly inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep an eye on your crankset. The vintage bike's rings were nigh invulnerable, the MTB one started to warp and kick off chains after a year of heavy use. Go for sturdy rather than light, and from a reputable midrange component family if/when replacing. The freewheels are name-brand, down-market units - an IRD wide-range 5 cog on the roadie and a Shimano 7-speed mega-range on the MTB - and held up without a hiccup.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep an eye on your chain for stretch and wear, too - beefy guys are wicked strong for short bursts and can apply more torque than they mean to heading up hills or over obstacles. To be honest, cheap, generic chains hold up just as well as name-brand ones. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Likewise keep your derailleurs in tune - you can break cheap indexed shifters by trying to force a shift that isn't gonna happen. Big guys sometimes use force rather than finesse, because they can. I broke a trigger-shifter on the MTB this way - it was a flimsy, plastic OEM unit, but it was integrated with the brake lever. I replaced it with sturdy, mid-range name-brand components, separate levers and shifters that could hold up to over-eager mashing. It turned out to be cheaper than replacing the broken unit with an identical one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8574" LastEditorUserId="8574" LastEditDate="2013-12-04T14:46:17.087" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T14:46:17.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-04T18:24:49.583" Score="4" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1953 Schwinn Paramount that I inherited and have been riding as my daily commuter.  I think most everything is original, but am not sure. Where can I find out what the original components should be, and any idea of its value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8703" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T00:58:12.313" Title="What are the original components to a 1953 Schwinn Paramount?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2013-12-04T19:53:38.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is a &quot;legal&quot; answer since it involves upgrading you as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend getting cycling shoes if you don't have it. It's almost a direct conversion of money to performance with minimal additional effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T19:53:38.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15809" CreationDate="2013-12-05T00:11:48.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano shifters are notorious for breaking cables off at the head inside the shifter. If all the individual wires that make up the cable completely break off it can be really difficult to to remove the head due to the frayed end. I think there's a good chance that this is what's happened to you. If it has, you'll need need tweezers and/or very slim needle nose pliers and/or metal picks, and a lot of patience to finagle the cable head out of the shifter- there's not a really great way to do it. Once you get it removed, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15809/rear-derailleur-and-front-shifter-are-not-indexing-together/17493#17493&quot;&gt;follow the directions in Christopher Scott's answer&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T00:11:48.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2013-12-05T00:32:57.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a heavier rider (250-260) and the first thing I do when I purchase a new mounain bike is invest a good chunk of change into better front and rear rims.  In this day and age, the stock rims are pretty weak and tend to break first in the spokes.  It's also not uncommon to have a bent rim when going off a curb.  I should also note that I punish my bikes when I'm out doing distance rides (20 miles or greater) or offroad.  I went through three rims one time within a month of buying a bike in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8380" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T00:32:57.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18591" CreationDate="2013-12-05T00:51:00.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Schwinn Paramount was a special machine, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chicago-schwinns.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown describes&lt;/a&gt;. I cannot tell you what components it had, because it seems that they were &lt;a href=&quot;http://schwinncruisers.com/catalogs/1953.html#paramount-boys&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;custom built to order only&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the people at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_paramountregistry.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwinn Paramount Registry&lt;/a&gt; can help more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like it's valuable. Look after it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T00:58:12.313" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T00:58:12.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-05T03:21:08.443" Score="6" ViewCount="140374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am finding it difficult to ride a Mountain bike, I feel that it may be more comfortable to change the tyre to that of a road bike, which are thinner in size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise if I can do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8705" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T14:07:35.647" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T07:11:58.630" Title="Can I put a road bike tyre on a mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2013-12-16T22:18:04.133" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18596" CreationDate="2013-12-05T04:26:45.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They make slick tires for mountain bikes used as commuters (and fat slick tires which the air provides a lot of cushioning). Some examples are Schwalbe's fat franks or big apple's (these are more baloonbike) or Marathons . Thinner doesn't necessarily mean more comfortable - in fact, the smaller the tire, the less comfortable it will typically be (this is a function of the bike's geometry and setup as well as the terrain and tires and tire pressures though). Go to your LBS and ask them for tires for road use or commuting and they will probably point you towards something similar to the Schwalbe big apples. Currently on my mountain bike which i use for commuting, I use Geax Evolution tires since I got them very very very cheap (though something like their street runner or some of the Kenda Kwick tires are probably something better for just road use if you're cheap).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't just take a mountain bike wheel and put it on a road bike and vice versa - the brake mounts and what not have to match up (this has been discussed a few times on these forums, whcih you can find with search) which is difficult if they're running different sizes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T04:26:45.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-05T05:58:01.657" Score="9" ViewCount="988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I intend to buy a used road bike, but don't know anything about bikes. So how can I buy a good one with a reasonable price? How can I evaluate the one I intend to buy? Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8706" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T08:17:30.313" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T01:15:10.963" Title="How can I evaluate a used road bike i intend to buy?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;evaluation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18613" CreationDate="2013-12-05T07:11:41.553" Score="2" ViewCount="8699" Body="&lt;p&gt;My disc-brakes on my mountain bike sing/scream when I brake. I have tried to clean them, but it didn't work. Should I replace the disks or the brake pads? Is there a better (cheaper) way to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8674" LastEditorUserId="210" LastEditDate="2013-12-07T21:40:12.783" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T19:31:22.043" Title="Disc brakes make noise" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18598" CreationDate="2013-12-05T08:36:40.550" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the bike is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/257/how-to-best-determine-if-a-bike-will-fit-without-riding-it&quot;&gt;right size&lt;/a&gt; for you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike is still on sale commercially, check what the new price is. You can find out about many brands/models from &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikepedia.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bikepedia.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find out what &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/108/how-can-i-tell-which-road-bike-components-groupsets-are-better&quot;&gt;components (gears and brakes)&lt;/a&gt; it has and what they'd cost new (by Googling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for any hairline cracks in the frame, especially around the head tube, bottom bracket and the top of the seat tube. You shouldn't ride a bike with this kind of damage, let alone buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4039/can-your-rims-wear-down-from-too-much-braking&quot;&gt;rims for signs of wear&lt;/a&gt; - for example a pitted or deeply scratched surface, or concave feel indicates significant use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9122/how-to-tell-when-to-replace-cassette&quot;&gt;cassette for signs of wear&lt;/a&gt; - the teeth should be symmetrical, not sloping more sharply on one side than the other. Scroll down &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's article on chains&lt;/a&gt; for more detail and pictures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Items like saddles, pedals and bartape can easily be replaced, but you should know in advance what this might cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3729/how-do-i-evaluate-the-quality-of-a-road-bike&quot;&gt;this answer on evaluating a road bike&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T15:46:06.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-05T09:16:59.630" Score="3" ViewCount="4710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an occasional rider who bought my last bike 15 years ago (an all-aluminium Saracen with shocks). I've put about 400-500 miles this year and am thinking of taking up one of the Cycle to Work schemes to get a new bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I remember when I went from my steel, fully-rigid Diamond Back, to my Saracen. &quot;Wow!&quot; is the only way I remember the luxury of getting shocks. I plan to do 20 miles a day (90% road / 10% off-road) for commuting, and have been advised to get a carbon fibre cyclocross bike. But no cross bikes seem to have shocks, and, despite what I've been told, I just cannot believe that carbon frame &amp;amp; forks can offer the same amount of shock absorbtion as shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's much BS floating around about the wonders of carbon fibre, and while I would like a light bike, by the time I've added lights, mudguards, and a trip computer for road use, saving a few ounces here and there seems a bit silly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gearing of the bike I am thinking of (Planet X XLS Shimano 105 Cyclocross) seems perfect, with a top gear of 46/11t on 700c wheels. My biggest complaint about my Saracen is the lack of a really long gear for the roads, but the lack of shocks on the Planet X really does worry me. As an aside, I am most definitely not Mr. Super-fit, being 5 1/2 decades young, and with the weight problems (85-90Kg) that go with being such a spring chicken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So does anybody have some real empiric evidence that CF forks are as good as Shocks for the use I have in mind or is there just too much marketing BS out there to form a firm opinion ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any sound advice would be appreciated !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8708" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-10T02:16:09.713" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T01:31:46.887" Title="Advice needed re Carbon Fiber vs Shocks" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18601" CreationDate="2013-12-05T12:25:07.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You generally don't see bikes sold with drops and suspension (but people do build them). Cross bikes are rigid (though in amateur cross, some people will bring in mountain bikes). Suspension forks are only useful on the road for people who have back problems or are old or something which necessitates the need for a light use front suspension fork to iron out some more bumps. Most people are best served by putting on bigger tires and a less aggressive setup on a rigid bike. Depending on the quality of your rigid diamondback and if you still have it, you may want to try fitting it with some fat, smooth tires or tires like the Geax Evolution (marketed as slight dirt use but primarily road use) and try taking it out again. 400-500 miles isn't a lot either (20-25 days of commuting), so I'm guessing theres also the getting used to riding around thing - a bike isn't like lying in bed. You can also play with saddles and grips and get a bike fit for comfort - that will probably matter more than your fork type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to their website, Planet X markets the XLS as a &quot;Stiff, responsive race-ready cyclocross machine&quot; and its listed as non-mudflap and non pannier rack compatible. Those aren't characteristics of a good commuter. A carbon fiber fork helps on some bikes in killing buzzing sensations, but its not going to change the purpose of a bike. Some cyclocross bikes do make good commuters, but they aren't typically cyclocross bikes marketed as race machines -- moreso things like the Trek Crossrip (some race-ish bikes do work as commuters though, like Kona's Jake the Snake). Its usually clear from the component spec, geometry and what not if its intended to race or to commute on. I was looking at the Planet X Kaffenback 2 for a while personally which looked to be a better commuter (but they weren't responsive to my questions and it would have been an international order). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have back problems or something which necessitates the use of shocks, I think a bike which takes non-skinny tires and has a more relaxed geometry is a good place to go with or without a carbon fork (this should only serve as relatively minor differentiation). If you want drops, look at something like the old Kona Dew Drop, but for 10 miles each way, a flat bar hybrid would work for most people as well, like the Trek 7.3 FX. Take them out for a spin on similar terrain to the commute and see what you like. People can, should and still do commute on rigid bikes. If you really feel like you need front suspension after trying out some hybrids (like the Trek 7.3fx, which does fine on light offroad stuff like fire roads) or drop bar commuters (Kona Dew Drop or Trek Crossrip (even though its marketed as a cross bike, its really not a race machine)) or even some touring bikes like the Trek 520 (which has a very nice geometry), go for a hybrid with front suspension, like the Trek 8.3 ds, though I'm not sure how much bounce there will be for someone whose 90kg. Good old rigid mountain bikes are also fine for 10 miles with good tires (like an old Specialized Rockhopper/Hardrock), and they're cheap and discrete (so they make ideal commuters) which can do a bit of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T13:21:16.433" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T13:21:16.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4863" CreationDate="2013-12-05T15:09:13.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Difference on canti and v brake's can be affected by your use, which is implied but not explicit in some  of the responses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canti pull ratio works with the pull ratio of road bikes--which is why they are used on cross bikes--not because of mud clearance since cross bikes use road brake/shifter levers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use V-brakes with a road brake/shift lever but it requires the use of a travel agent to alter the cable pull from the cant ratio to the V brake ratio.  These can be complicated to install, don't always work well, and can become fouled in the mud of cyclocross.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8716" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T04:05:03.247" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T04:05:03.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18601" CreationDate="2013-12-05T17:33:00.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is a matter of personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an aluminium race bike with carbon forks (CELL - Australian) which I used as a commuter, and for the occasional race or climb at home in Colorado.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious about the carbon forks and was told that they are not as stiff as normal forks and on long IronMan rides, this makes a massive difference to how tired your body gets (again this is dependent on the quality of the riding surface).  However for this to be a factor you need to be riding 160km+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other bike was given to me about 10+ years ago, it is a stiff GIANT Boulder.  The original front suspension fork was replaced by a stiff fork by the guy who gave it to me.  I used the bike for commuting with slick tyres, while I was in Sydney and changed to off-road tyres when I did a mountain bike ride, however without a fork my hands invariably were bleeding after any offroad ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we moved to Colorado, the bleeding hands became more prevalent and people were laughing at me during long mountain descents - saying I was crazy.  I bought a cheap $100 suspension fork, fitted it, and I love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the tyres are off road tyres and it has a fork on it I almost never use the GIANT as a commuter while the CELL gets a good work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think for commuting a stiff or CF fork will always be superior.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8518" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T17:33:00.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18606" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-05T21:27:53.237" Score="0" ViewCount="1709" Body="&lt;h2&gt;BIKE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/862827/diamondback-jr-viper-20-boys-bike-2014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2014 Diamondback Jr. Viper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AQzaO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2014 Diamondback Jr. Viper&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;SPECS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Specification            Description&#xA;---------------------------------------------------&#xA;Best use                 Cycling &#xA;Bike style               BMX bike&#xA;Bike frame material      Steel &#xA;Frame                    DB high-tensile steel &#xA;Bike suspension          No suspension &#xA;Fork                     BMX high-tensile steel    &#xA;Crankset                 1-piece steel, 36t&#xA;Bottom bracket           Loose ball &#xA;Rear cogs                18t freewheel &#xA;Brake type               Coaster brake&#xA;Brakes                   Rush V-brake&#xA;Brake levers             Rush RX2.1&#xA;Rims                     Alloy&#xA;Front hub                Steel, 36h&#xA;Rear hub                 Steel, 36h&#xA;Wheel size               20 inches&#xA;Tires                    Comp III Style, 20x1.75&#xA;Handlebar shape          BMX bar&#xA;Handlebar                Steel BMX&#xA;Stem                     Alloy quill&#xA;Seat post                Steel pillar&#xA;Saddle                   DB BMX Padded&#xA;Pedals                   Resin platform&#xA;Headset                  Threaded steel&#xA;Chain                    KMC Z410&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;PROBLEM&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes on the handlebar are really hard to pull and make a popping noise when you pull all the way in. Also, when you just roll the bike, it feels like as it rolls, the brakes are being applied.  We've already taken the bike back to REI to have them adjust the brakes and/or spokes on a truing stand.  I don't know what else to do or how to correct the situation.  We simply want the bike to be able to roll freely and have the brakes apply only when depressing the pedal or the handlebar brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8721" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T01:45:08.403" Title="2014 Diamondback Jr. Viper Brake Problem" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;diamondback&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18606" CreationDate="2013-12-05T22:06:18.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This bike looks to have a vee brake seen on (now old school) mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The popping noise you notice could be the cable housing not sitting in one of its barrels. And, pulling the lever that could cause it to move suddenly in/out of place. It  could also explain why the wheel isn't turning well: the housing could pull on the cable, and hence the brake. Check the housing, if it keeps falling out of the those little barrels, it may be because the housing is excessively long. Have REI shorten it for you -- you can do it yourself, but you'll need something more than those needle noise pliers. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not it, check the wheel. Ensure it's sitting center in the frame. Lift the bike and turn the rear wheel, if the brake pads are &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; close to the rim, then you will want to give out a little slack to brake cable. If one pad rubs, adjust the amount each brake arm's spring pulls outward. (There should be a small screw on the side of each brake arm.) I like to balance the spring tension, so if you tighten one arm, loosen the opposing arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2839" LastEditorUserId="2839" LastEditDate="2013-12-06T01:45:08.403" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T01:45:08.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18596" CreationDate="2013-12-05T22:32:48.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no. Now for the long answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bike and road bike wheels are different diameters and use tires that are different diameters. Specifically, mountain bikes use 26&quot; tires and road tires use the ridiculously meaningless 700c sizing. I won't get into what these sizes mean here, but you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=tire%20sizes&quot;&gt;find more info on this site&lt;/a&gt; or, if you really want to dork out for a bit, read Sheldon Brown's page on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tire sizing&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Batman mentioned, you can purchase slicks and semi-slicks for 26&quot; rims. They're not technically &quot;road&quot; tires - they're a bit wider and run lower pressures - but they still reduce rolling resistance. There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=26%22%20slick%20tire&amp;amp;aq=f&amp;amp;oq=26%22%20slick%20tire&amp;amp;aqs=chrome.0.57.7264&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=26%22%20slick%20tire&amp;amp;tbm=shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lots of options&lt;/a&gt;. Just shop around&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, I'm not sure what you find uncomfortable about your mountain bike tires. Mountain bike tires are typically &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; comfortable than road bike tires. One thing you may consider is simply lowering the pressure in your tires. The maximum pressure listed on the side is very often much higher than you want or need. You can read more about finding the correct pressure &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/471/what-pressure-should-i-run-my-mountain-bike-tires-at&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T22:32:48.463" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18598" CreationDate="2013-12-06T01:15:10.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the frame, cosmetics etc. Check the components; derailleur, brake system. Check the rims, make sure its not wobbly or missing a spoke. Lastly, I would look up the serial number which can be found on the bottom of most bike frames, under the crank set. Riding a stolen bike is bad bike karma. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8690" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T01:15:10.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18596" CreationDate="2013-12-06T11:28:26.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is yes (with apologies to jimrings).  The long answer is that your choice is very limited (and depends on your definition of road tyre - do you mean road-bike tyre or road-use tyre)?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&lt;/a&gt; or similar for what widths are compatible, and for urban riding (debris) or light off-road tracks (thorns) I would strongly suggest a kevlar anti-puncture belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinnest of the popular kevlar slicks available in 26&quot; appears to be the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/tour/marathon/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schwalbe marathon&lt;/a&gt;, but you could also try the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/active-line/road-cruiser/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schwalbe road cruiser&lt;/a&gt; (I use these on my hybrid) or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-tyres.co.uk/conticycle/ti%20contact.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;continental's comfort-contact&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T11:28:26.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18599" CreationDate="2013-12-06T12:40:36.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, squeaking brakes are caused by the sound of your pads sticking then slipping increadibly quickly, rather than applying presssure to your discs smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution:  Sometimes these problems can be a right pain in the butt.  Sometimes your brakes need time to bed in, sometimes, as you know, your discs just need cleaning, or importantly, drying. But if that doesn't work you need to rough up your discs.  You can get products with abrasives in them just for this purpose, or, less expensively.. I know many people have had success with very fine sand paper.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give that a try before replacing your discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8724" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T12:40:36.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18601" CreationDate="2013-12-06T16:38:38.627" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no frame material in the world that will absorb bumps like a bike with a suspension fork/frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the original &quot;suspension&quot; invention that made bicycles practical was the pneumatic tire. If you have a rigid frame and fork, that's all the real suspension you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skinny road tires at high psi have about 2-3mm of &quot;travel&quot;, a fat commuter tire at 60 psi will have close to 25mm of travel. A suspension fork generally has about 100mm of travel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A CX bike is a good choice to build a commuter around since they generally take fatter tires ( usually up to 32mm ), but there's absolutely no reason to get a carbon CX bike for commuting. Especially one that does not take a rack or have fender mounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With fat tires at the correct PSI, I think you would have a very hard time distinguishing between different frame materials in a blind test. Geometry and tire size make so much more of a difference than what the frame is made of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To enjoy your commute, I'd recommend finding a balance in the middle. A bike with suspension is going to be heavy and slow and overkill 99% of the time. A &quot;racy&quot; carbon CX bike is going to be fast, but rough and the handling will be a bit twitchy. A good commuter should take fat tires(32mm at least), have a relatively long wheelbase and slacker angles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can commute on anything. You might just try putting slicks on the bike you already have and see how that works for you. If you are going to get a new bike, I'd really suggest looking at CX/commuter bikes with disk brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T16:38:38.627" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18618" CreationDate="2013-12-06T17:26:04.153" Score="2" ViewCount="26663" Body="&lt;p&gt;My freewheel tarted slipping this week. It slips most from a stop with no pressure snapping to significant pressure on the pedals. Slipping may be the wrong term as it really isn't engaging. Once it &quot;hooks up&quot; and pressure is continuously applied there is no slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike is a 3 years old, kona humu-humu, and used for daily commutes in Montana. Stored in an unheated shed at night, left out in the elements during work M-F 9-6, a couple times a month year round while out on the town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Past couple months I've been hearing a banging sound out of the rear cog which I assumed was the chain slipping on the cog, but now I'm wondering if it the ratcheting mechanism in the freewheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recent weather included a large snow storm which caked the bike in snow/ice followed by a week of sub 0F weather, so the snow stayed caked on. Two days ago riding it home after dark in like roughly -20F temps the issue first occurred. Thinking it was a chain slippage and being very intermittent I brought it inside got the bike warmed up/dry tighted the chain and did some other routine maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next day, same issue occurs but easier to recreate while off the bike and I can see the chain is fine and the freewheel just isn't hooking up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple theories but not how likely each is. I'm also not sure how serviceable the freewheel is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theories:&#xA;- Water worked it's way into the freewheel and is now frozen inside the freewheel. This is changing how the moving parts operate.&#xA;- The banging sound was the freewheel and is a sign of or the cause of major wear. The mechanism providing traction now has a loose fit and the extreme low temperatures are enough to further loosen the connection to unusable.&#xA;- It's too cold for the springs/oil in the mechanism to perform adequately for normal usage&#xA;- Something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to swing by the local shop anyways as I'm swapping out some parts shortly, but if there are some simple fix ideas I'd love to hear them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Freehub not freewheel + Single speed cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastEditorUserId="3047" LastEditDate="2013-12-06T19:09:41.307" LastActivityDate="2020-04-10T15:40:30.867" Title="Why is my freewheel slipping?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18616" CreationDate="2013-12-06T18:30:42.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this was mentioned in a comment, freewheels are not the same as freehubs+cassettes (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&lt;/a&gt;) for details. The rest of the discussion should hold if freewheel is replaced with cassette+freehub though with minor modifications - I don't know if this bike has a freewheel or a cassette+freehub since I can't load the product page. Freewheels and chains (which needs to be measured with a ruler, due to some issues with most chain checking tools according to Sheldon Brown), (and less frequently, the chain rings) are wear items - they don't last forever (and the ratcheting mechanism can go and make a lot of noise). In 3 years, you may have exceeded it in commuting depending on weather and mileage - Last freewheel I had lasted about 3500-5000 miles (some cheap sunrace freewheel) since I ran a while with a worn chain. You don't fix a freewheel unless you have to - theres a lot of bearings and what not which makes the complexity high. Buy a replacement freewheel and have it installed, and throw the old one away (and usually, thats a good time to replace your chain as well, though you should get at least 2-3 chains / freewheel). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't call it a banging noise (I haven't thought of what a good description of what the noise would be), but hubs which need repacking or axle damage also do make noise, so you may want to check that too. You can also get a banging-clunking noise from a failing bottom bracket as well (which can lead to a slipping sensation), so checking the bottom bracket area is another thing to do (in doing this, you'll also have to check the cranks and pedals, so this is a bit of work). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T18:30:42.493" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18621" CreationDate="2013-12-06T19:46:59.257" Score="5" ViewCount="1612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a new mountain bike online.  As I understand it, new bikes are usually shipped only partially assembled, but I don't really know what to expect.  Will it just be a matter of attaching large assemblies like pedals and handlebars, or should I expect to have to route cables, setup derailleurs, etc?  I know it probably varies somewhat between manufacturers, but what would be the typical level of assembly I should expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: For clarification, I'm comfortable doing almost all my own maintenance and I own most of the necessary tools.  I'm just looking for an idea of what to expect and how much time to allot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2013-12-06T22:40:18.467" LastActivityDate="2017-06-27T17:57:43.500" Title="Assembly of New Bike" Tags="&lt;new-bicycle-assembly&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18619" CreationDate="2013-12-06T20:26:22.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, it should be as easy as you think. I've built my own bikes and a few for my friends. I also used to build bikes at Target and they get the same ones consumers do. Typically, everything complicated is preassembled. For instance, the brake lines will be attached and connected, and all you have to do is fit the wheel in and attach it to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8593" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T20:26:22.953" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18619" CreationDate="2013-12-06T21:08:57.430" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The details depend, but as a guide expect to install pedals and wheels and attach the handle bar to the stem (2 or 4 Hex bolts). Unless you are DIY challenged, the most time consuming part will be removing the packaging material from frame, handlebars, wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disc brakes will (should) have packers that will needed removing. There might be plastic spacers in the forks and &quot;plugs&quot; to remove from the cranks where the pedals go in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once assembled you need to tune the gears and check the brakes are working an aligned correctly. Check all the bolts and nuts are tight (use a torque wrench if you have one, else be careful - tight as in firm, not tight as in done up by a 600 pound gorilla holding a spanner)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any doubts, your LBS will be able to assemble it for a about 1/2 hour labor charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T21:08:57.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18623" CreationDate="2013-12-06T21:52:30.880" Score="0" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a pair old Shimano SH-R133 shoes for my road road, they are size 46.&#xA;I'm thinking about a pair of SH-XC30. Can I use the same size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5450" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T00:53:48.173" Title="Shimano same shoesize different models" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-12-16T22:17:03.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18622" CreationDate="2013-12-07T00:53:48.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like buying sneakers or dress shoes (or really any piece of clothing/footwear), you can't just buy cycling shoes based on size, even within one manufacturer due to shape differences and size differences within a line (especially when going from mountain -&gt; road or vice versa). Try them on and see how they work. If you can't try them on, you're going to have to do some guesswork with ordering and hope for a good return policy if the fit isn't good.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if they're the right size, you may find moving to a different shoe will make you more comfortable or confident, so you do have to shop around for them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T00:53:48.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4912" CreationDate="2013-12-07T03:39:21.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good comments allround. The hand you indicate with should also control the front brake. If living in countries that drive on the right and your are right handed, you are living in a perfect world. Strongest hand on the correct brake for hard braking is the Right and may save your life. Testimonies from those who have descended down 25- 30Km 11% French Alps will testify to the pain experienced when applying the brakes continually through hairpin corners. I do not live in a perfect world, ride on the left BUT for the above mentioned reason, my rear brake is on my strongest right hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8729" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-04-23T18:38:13.970" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T18:38:13.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18636" CreationDate="2013-12-07T09:15:37.113" Score="8" ViewCount="5861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a SunTour XCR fork. Not wanting &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12450/badly-rusted-suspension-fork&quot;&gt;to ruin it&lt;/a&gt; I am worried that a significant amount of water has penetrated beyond the seals. I have recently ridden the bike in rain, snow, and washed it in a bathroom with a showerhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The symptom that I am observing is the following. I just cleaned the stanchions, oiled them, compressed them rapidly to get oil beyond the seals, then wiped off excess oil and dirt, from the seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But unlike usually, when compressing the fork, there was a &quot;whum&quot; sound of air leaving the fork boots and passing throught some liquid at the seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one hand, I had just put oil just there. On the other hand, I have never heared this sound (with a brand-new fork), when applying this procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the fork be disassebled and dried? What other tell-tales are there that there is water in the a (spring-operated) suspension form?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T12:23:18.490" Title="How do I know if there is water in my fork" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-07T10:23:35.087" Score="6" ViewCount="6557" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I had a headset and fork fitted by my LBS. Lacking the specific tools or knowledge, I thought it better to leave this job to a professional; as a consequence of my inexperience, however, I have no idea whether they've actually done a good job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, the crown race fits snug against the base of the steerer tube. When the fork is inserted, however, there is a gap of about two millimetres between the base of the steerer and the bottom headset cup, leaving the crown race exposed. My expectation was that the bottom cup would instead sit flush with the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scouring bike forums for answers suggests this situation isn't all that uncommon, with some offering makeshift solutions, like a strip of inner tube to keep out grime. Still, if someone wouldn't mind taking a look at my headset specifically, it might ease my mind somewhat. I've included a couple of close-ups below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pj9w9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nMoth.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've checked the orientation of the bearings, and they're definitely the right way up. The slight chamfer on the inside edge of the lower bearing fits nice and tight against the crown race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headset is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tangeseiki.com/tangeseiki_news/threadless-traditional.php?page=1&amp;amp;class=2a&amp;amp;pic=200902050922446.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tange Seiki RDC-82&lt;/a&gt;. I don't appear to be missing any pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Ok, so I gave the company I originally purchased the headset from (the same place I bought my frameset at the same time — not the LBS that installed it) a call; they instantly knew what I was talking about, and assured me it was normal for this particular model. In hindsight, ringing them should really have been the first thing I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still seems like a poor design in my opinion. Not only does it look somewhat unsightly, but the gap risks exposing the lower bearing to grime and dirt. A simple seal could have solved both these issues. Perhaps when I eventually come to replace the headset, I'll invest in something pricer/better quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8731" LastEditorUserId="8731" LastEditDate="2013-12-07T15:40:24.277" LastActivityDate="2020-09-06T08:33:32.757" Title="Gap between lower headset cup and fork. Is this likely to be a problem?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18627" CreationDate="2013-12-07T15:47:03.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That seems like a big gap, but it may be normal, especially if you've inspected how the bearings seat against the crown race and all seems well. When the headset is properly adjusted the bar move effortlessly from side to side? Is the any fore/aft movement of the fork if you hold the front brake and push the front end back and forth with some force? If the answers are yes/no then you're probably fine. It wouldn't hurt anything for you to return to the bike shop where it was installed and ask them about it. They may very well have installed that headset on another bike in the past and know that what you're seeing is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T15:47:03.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18626" CreationDate="2013-12-07T18:52:58.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to know for sure what happens with your fork is to take it apart and have a look. Any other suggested procedure will be a guess. So if that noise bothers you, get your tools out and open the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from checking the internal condition, you will gain a better understanding of the fork structure and operations, and you'll know what to expect from it. And next time you face with strange sound, you'll know what's happening there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastEditorUserId="1896" LastEditDate="2017-08-01T09:58:19.217" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T09:58:19.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18627" CreationDate="2013-12-07T23:27:57.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is difficult to see through the grease it appears that you may have two crown races installed on the steerer tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T23:27:57.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-08T15:49:41.970" Score="1" ViewCount="1643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace my tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have the standard 26x2.1 tires that came with the bike and am looking to replace them with a set of 26x2.25, could this be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6284" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-12-09T14:41:13.220" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T21:58:23.457" Title="Can a 2012 Carrera Vulcan run 26 x 2.25 tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18632" CreationDate="2013-12-08T16:00:59.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire sizing is essentially witchcraft (See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;) for mixing conventions and what not. Even if you have two tires of the same dimensions (say 26x2.25), you may not be able to mount both of them due to knob patterns (a &quot;larger&quot; labeled slick may fit where a &quot;smaller&quot; labeled knobby squeezes by due to the height and width of the knobs) or slight dishonesty in sizing preventing the frame from clearing things properly. Also, your rims need to be able to take the tire size as well. This all may also depend on the particular frame size you have as well. You should probably go to your LBS and try some 26x2.25's in the space or at least do some measurements on the clearance of the tire in the frame (it may not be the same in the front and back, so you may be able to run a larger tire in the front). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be a Halford's bike (which is like REI level bikes? not from teh UK), so there aren't product pages for it archived, so I don't have any specific sizing information I can help with. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/category/bikes/mountain-bikes/product/review-carrera-vulcan-12-45673/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/category/bikes/mountain-bikes/product/review-carrera-vulcan-12-45673/&lt;/a&gt; says they fit a Continental Mountain King 26x2.2 on there in the comments but doesn't mention how much more it will clear (which you'll have to actually go out and try similar tires as to the one you want).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T18:39:26.293" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T18:39:26.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18353" CreationDate="2013-12-08T22:43:43.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe try the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/BCPXFRBO/planet_x_frogs_bollox_cantilever_brakeset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Planet X Frogs Bollox set&lt;/a&gt; suggested &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/922675-Issues-with-27-quot-wheels-and-Tektro-CR720-Canitlever-Brakes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (I've also seen the Empella Froglegs suggested as an option). Another option is to find another old 80s bike for cheap and rip the canti's off them as suggested by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-916014.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T06:28:14.943" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T06:28:14.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18626" CreationDate="2013-12-08T22:44:27.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The XCRs are very simple forks and unless specified don't have an oil or air damper so very user friendly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that water has got below the dust wipers but this is generally unlikely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanism for a XCR is a sealed lock out unit and a coil. You should simply be able to drop the lowers off the fork without disrupting anything else to check them out for water and to ensure there's plenty of grease to protect the spring and other internals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'whum' could be the stanchions being a bit sticky moving through the wipers but not much else I can think off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T22:44:27.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18641" CreationDate="2013-12-08T23:53:22.633" Score="2" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a second hand old Peugeot, I really enjoy the bike, but I'm having a balance problem with it, pulls to the left when riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be related with the handlebars? They are crooked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/UFN8Jx0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/UG9ksby.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/K20HmfW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/grW3g1d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/pdqp5bN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/hqujdAR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8732" LastEditorUserId="8732" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T18:39:13.343" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T18:39:13.343" Title="Vintage Peugeot pulls towards left when riding" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18637" CreationDate="2013-12-09T08:54:37.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Straighten your seat. It's pointed a bit to the right, causing your body to slightly slant to the left to compensate, moving center of the mass a bit to the left, causing whole bike to lean and turn left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T08:54:37.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18632" CreationDate="2013-12-09T14:40:04.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've been able to find, your Carrera Vulcan is probably equipped with a Suntour XCM V3. Since this is a 100mm (stated) travel fork, it's most likely intended for XC riding and will fit anything 2.3&quot; and smaller. I've run 29x2.25&quot; with a moderately aggresive knob pattern and didn't have any problems with clearance (on a Suntour XCT fork). However, if you're looking at something like an All-Mountain or Downhill type tire, I would go smaller as clearance will probably be tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the short answer is: probably. You can also measure the most narrow distance between the legs of the fork lowers and see what that is and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T14:40:04.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18637" CreationDate="2013-12-09T15:15:17.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a vintage peugeot and one characteristic of older steel frames like them is horizontal dropouts. Although they have their advantages it also means you must be careful to align the rear wheel properly when putting it back on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look carefully from above the wheel should be exactly central between the chainstays and the seatstays. Although hard to see, in your 2nd photo it looks as though it's off to the left a bit. Just loosen the QR and carefully adjust the axle's position in each dropout until you have the wheel central.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is most likely the cause of your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MGoCD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T15:15:17.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7708" CreationDate="2013-12-09T17:47:06.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, call 911 and ask for the police and EMS. If you said to a witness “I didn’t see the car before it hit me” the insurance company hears “I wasn’t paying attention”. If you said “the car must have moved into my lane to hit me” the insurance company hears “ I wasn’t in my lane when the car hit me”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you won’t want to remain silent after the crash. If a law enforcement officer is at the accident site asking questions about the crash, make sure you give the officer your version of what happened along with providing your name and address.&#xA;If you have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://velosurance.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycle insurance policy&lt;/a&gt; - consider yourself lucky.&#xA;Don’t assume that the police have prepared or will prepare an accident report. These reports are only completed if the police investigate an accident, and policies on accident reports will vary from one law enforcement agency to another. If an accident report is prepared, make sure that it is accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://velosurance.com/information-center/what-to-do-when-cyclist-hit-by-a-car&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;What to do after a collision with a car&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8744" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T17:47:06.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18645" CreationDate="2013-12-09T21:46:20.400" Score="11" ViewCount="14086" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a Merino wool base layer for all the obvious reasons, they're raved about and have been sworn by by many a rider, and I was getting not only chilly in the winter weather but also wearing a cotton t-shirt and getting caught in the rain caused it to very quickly go cold, damp and heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I bought small and medium and settled for the small but even that is quite loose on me and a baggy fit. It certainly keeps me warm, no complaints there, but then I very quickly get too warm. They're supposed to be magic - keep you warm in winter and cool in the heat - but if it can't stop me from overheating when its cold outside, I struggle to believe it being any better in the summer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that it needs to be a skin fit in order to achieve its wicking capabilities, and because it's loose, it isn't able to wick the heat direct from my skin, but rather heats up the air between my skin and the base layer causing a reserve of hot air which keeps getting hotter and thus causing my own mini personal sauna effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right or totally wrong? I don't mind being wrong, but just want to understand the reasons I seem to be too hot and what I can do to resolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also wearing a waterproof jacket over it which isn't very breathable. This could just as much be the problem, but I don't want to leave the jacket in case it rains as I don't know how Merino wool base layers - especially when baggy - cope when wet? (Another question maybe?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7215" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-12-13T21:21:52.350" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T21:21:52.350" Title="Do merino wool base layers need to be skin tight?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18643" CreationDate="2013-12-09T22:46:54.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Merino definitely won't work as well to wick away sweat if it's not touching much of your skin, but the rain jacket trapping all of that moisture in also doesn't help. It's hard to say which is the biggest contributing factor. Perhaps try the merino on without the rain jacket once in fair weather, and see if it performs better than just a cotton shirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3741" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T22:46:54.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18643" CreationDate="2013-12-09T23:17:44.230" Score="18" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am also wearing a waterproof jacket over it which isn't very breathable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well there's your problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most wickable, breathable material in the world isn't going to achieve those properties if you put a plastic bag over it. If you don't want to be caught out in the rain, keep the raincoat in a backpack/messengerbag/pannier/whatever until it's needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding how tight the base layer should be, I would say it should be pretty tight, especially when you first put it on because it will shrink up in the wash and loosen up considerably when you sweat in it. However, if it's a little baggy it's not the end of the world, it just wont wick moisture away as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that everyone has different heat/cold tolerances. Two different people may require entirely different layers at the same temperature based on exertion, weight, preference, etc. If you're a hot blooded type, it might need to get a little colder before you put on a wool jersey. I know I'd catch on fire for anything above around 55&amp;deg;F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T23:17:44.230" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18637" CreationDate="2013-12-09T23:18:36.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://marksbikes.wordpress.com/2011/01/09/bike-mysteries/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://marksbikes.wordpress.com/2011/01/09/bike-mysteries/&lt;/a&gt; might be a useful link to start with - It says Anjou on it, so its reasonable to guess its a Peugeot Anjou of some year. In that link, they do link to some old Peugeot catalogues and what not (for example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp271/qeugeot/1989fr/1989fr_27.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp271/qeugeot/1989fr/1989fr_27.jpg&lt;/a&gt; is a 1989 Peugeot Anjou). Depending on what parts of the bike are original,  you may be able to figure out what year it is from the catalogues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T23:18:36.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14940" CreationDate="2013-12-10T17:29:06.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using a Take-A-Look mirror for as long as I can remember, perhaps 8 years. I have piled up more than once with no ill effect. At least not from the mirror. Last time, this past Father's Day, was the worst in terms of personal injury, with me being carted off to the hospital. No broken bones or permanent injuries thank God!&lt;br/&gt;That said, about my Take-A-Look: I never lost consciousness and heard my helmet hit the pavement with a mighty thwack! yet the Take-A-Look stayed put, it being inside the protective circle formed by the helmet! Think about it: if the mirror is mounted on the OUTSIDE of the helmet, it may break resulting in broken pieces of plastic(just as dangerous as metal, as far as your eyes are concerned) and glass being thrown into the mix of your personal accident. The Take-A-Look is, if not INSIDE the helmet, in a position so that the helmet may keep it from hitting the road, so the helmet may protect you in that respect. Also as Jonny says it pops of easily. I can also say it is not easily broken. I know this because I am rather hard on such things.&lt;br/&gt; If, however, you are not wearing a helmet, then God protect you! (But that's another thread...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6737" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T17:29:06.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-11T08:55:57.430" Score="3" ViewCount="4031" Body="&lt;p&gt;As part of a new build I'm working on, I just had some wheels built up. The hubs are large flanged Miche Primatos with a double-sided fixed wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear wheel, straight out the box, seemed weirdly stiff — to the extent that I could barely move it at all, let alone for it to spin freely — so I gave the workshop a call for advice. They suggested the lock nuts were probably just overtightened, and that backing them off a bit would sort it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Miche hubs have sealed bearings, and each side is held in place by both an outer and an inner lock nut. I tried to loosen the outer nuts a bit, but they wouldn't budge. I had to put in all my effort, wrenching in reverse directions on either side of the hub, to get them to loosen even a little, and it would only be in a quick, jerky motion, not smoothly unscrewing. Rather than gradually getting easier as I backed the nut down the axle's thread, it was still just as stiff as when I started. I'd managed to loosen the outer nut by a few millimetres, as shown below, but it was still really stiff (not the hub, but rather the nut on the axle). The force required was such that I quit until seeking further advice; I don't want to do something silly like strip the threads on my axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wl2mc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you'll notice in the image that the outer nut is still tight against the inner nut and dust cap. These are three separate pieces, that should have to be removed individually. But here it is as though they've been forged out of the same piece of metal. I cannot loosen the outer nut without the inner one coming with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone could help diagnose what's going on here, I'd really appreciate the help. Is it at all possible that the hub is in some way fault? Could the axle have damaged threads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8731" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T23:11:20.287" Title="Lock nuts on new hubs seem strangely tight, but can't seem to loosen them. Any advice?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18599" CreationDate="2013-12-11T10:00:21.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a tip for you - putting a smudge of copper grease on the BACK of your pads can reduce the noise.  It may still be there until the brakes are properly bedded in, but I have found it does make a difference, especially under lighter braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7040" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T10:00:21.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17988" CreationDate="2013-12-11T19:13:01.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When most of your training is comprised of specific workouts then obviously you will be training solo a majority of the time.  The best way to gel as a team is to do a lot of races together.  Set aside a day each week for a group ride and don't limit it to just your team, make it competitive. This is a good time to work on your sprints, etc. A week long training camp early in the season is good, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6650" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T19:13:01.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30249" CreationDate="2013-12-11T21:31:31.863" Score="19" ViewCount="15593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced my rear wheel with a road tubeless (Bontrager RL TLR). Was lucky to have the bike shop installed the tyre, took two blokes to put it on the rim. Anyway, my second ride was a couple of days after I bought it and I can feel the wheel bumped a gap on the driveway. So I went back and put some more air to 90 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two days after I pumped the tyre, I checked the tyre before riding and it only had 40 psi. Is that normal for road tubeless? I only have to add air once a week with none tubeless tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Follow up&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went back to the shop and they said they put enough sealant and insisted that rapid air loss is normal for tubeless. They also offered to put tube in it if it's too much a pain. Caveat, I asked how others' experience with road tubeless and they said I'm the only one with tubeless. I did see there's a stack of TLR rim strip, presumably from new Trek bikes they sold that came with Bontrager TLR wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sent a link to this question to them and trek, no response yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now, I will just pump the tyres before every ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify, my question is only about road tubeless tyres relative to road clincher, so they're both &quot;high pressure&quot; tyres. I actually ran the tubeless with less air (90 psi) compared to my front clincher tyre (100 psi). The reason for that was because the tubeless rim is a &quot;wide rim&quot; than (then) usual road wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case anyone's interested, I only have tubeless wheels now and run them with tubes because 1) losing air was too much trouble and 2) I don't think I can put on a tubeless tyre myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:57:41.427" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:57:41.427" Title="Do road tubeless tyres lose air faster?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18654" CreationDate="2013-12-11T21:42:29.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the guys who installed the tubeless tire didn't clean the rim and use sealant on the rim and tire before installing it, then it is likely losing excessive air. Tubeless tires run at a lower pressure than tube type tires...about 10 to 15 pounds per square inch less, so they need more attention than the tube type tires. I'd take the bike back and explain to them about the rapid air pressure loss and ask them if they cleaned and used sealant on the rim and tire when mounting it. It's also possible that they ruined the bead when mounting this tire. Make sure that's checked out also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T21:42:29.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18654" CreationDate="2013-12-11T22:57:55.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road tires have higher pressure with lower volume, and both of those properties are going to cause them to lose air more quickly than a lower pressure, higher volume tire, tubeless or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, it may be the case that the tire needs a little more sealant. The stuff has to squeeze around not only throughout the casing of the tire, but also between the bead and the channel the bead sits in. If there's not enough to slosh around, the area between the bead and it's channel may never seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility as Lucky pointed out is that they damaged the bead during install, though this is pretty hard to do. They could have taken a hunk of rubber off of the bead to expose the carbon fiber below, but that would likely require some serious hamfistedness during the install process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more likely cause is that they messed up the rim strip during the install. The wheel you have does not have a solid metal outer wall but instead relies on a rim strip to seal the spoke holes. This is similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/Stans-Rim-Tape-10yd-x-21mm-P54.aspx&quot;&gt;Stan's NoTubes solution of using tape&lt;/a&gt; though in my experience- albeit with brands other than Bontrager- the rim strips don't work as well (It's possible that the valley in the rim is too deep for the tape to conform to and/or they're just looking for the convenience of the rim strip, but that's somewhat beside the point). Either way, tape and rim strips can be damaged pretty easily if you're not diligent with your tire levers, and given the horror stories I've heard about installing tubeless road tires I think this is something that should be inspected by the guys that installed it in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T01:46:11.487" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T01:46:11.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18651" CreationDate="2013-12-11T23:11:20.287" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those counterlocked axle nuts are binding together more tightly than the threads are on each individual nut, and thus staying counterlocked against one another. Usually this isn't the case and when you put a wrench on the outside nut on either side of the hub, one of the outer nuts will break free. As you're seeing now, not always the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a box wrench and a cone wrench (or two cone wrenches) to break the inside and outside axle nuts on &lt;em&gt;one side&lt;/em&gt; free from each other. Then get the bearings properly preloaded and counterlock them again. This process can be tricky as the preload on the bearings will change as you counterlock the two nuts back together. It usually takes a few tries to get the preload set right &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the nuts counterlocked firmly. Too tight? back them both off 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn and try again. Too loose? Do just the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T23:11:20.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18654" CreationDate="2013-12-12T02:06:28.347" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're really asking two questions here:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) Do road tires lose air more quickly?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And 2) Do tubeless tires lose air more quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, let's talk about the different ways that tires can (and do) lose pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, they can lose pressure through a poor seal, either on the valve or where the tire seats to the rim on tubeless tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires also lose pressure through &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permeation&quot;&gt;permeation&lt;/a&gt;. This essentially means that air molecules escape between the molecules that make up the casing (i.e., tube or tubeless tire). This is true of all tires, not just bicycle tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, there is always the possibility of a slow leak caused by a puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what the reason for air loss, a tire at a higher pressure will lose air more quickly than a tire at a lower pressure. Thus, if we assume the same type of tire, materials, etc: road tires lose air more quickly than cross tires, and cross tires lose air more quickly than mountain bike tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, air loss is also more noticeable on smaller tires because any air that escapes represents a larger percentage of the total volume of air. So, if you have a 26x2 mountain bike tire and a 700x23c and inflate them both to the same pressure, they will initially lose the same amount of &lt;em&gt;air&lt;/em&gt; at the same rate. However, since the air lost in the road tire represents a larger percentage of the overall volume, the &lt;em&gt;pressure&lt;/em&gt; will drop more quickly. And as the pressure drops, the road tire will lose air more slowly, but the pressure will still drop more quickly than the mountain bike tire due to its significantly greater size.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air loss is also exacerbated by thinner walled casings. This means that (again, assuming the same materials) lighter and thinner tubes will lose air more quickly than heavier and thicker tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I don't have a lot of experience with tubeless, but given that caveat...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubeless tires should &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;in theory&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; lose air less quickly than tubes due to the thickness of the casing and the fact that people typically run them at lower pressures. I have heavily stressed &quot;in theory&quot; here because it is certainly possible that tubeless tires are more permeable than tubes and because of this, some balance is achieved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T02:06:28.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17988" CreationDate="2013-12-12T04:08:49.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're talking about road, I think you're very much understating the important of team dynamics and strategy. Personal fitness is very important, but understanding how to work with your team is crucial to winning, even at lower levels of road racing and especially at higher levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I think it's true that training programs have become increasingly individually specific, the importance of cooperation with the team and strategy of road racing has increased at the same if not a faster rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T04:08:49.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18002" CreationDate="2013-12-12T15:20:33.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for sharing and sorry to hear of your issue. You can take the bike to any local dealer for assistance, contact &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/dahonperu?fref=ts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dahon Peru&lt;/a&gt; for stores. If bought last year it is not likely to be affected by the recall, but if you are worried please email your serial number to contact@dahon.com and we will check. Thanks! Willow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8766" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T15:20:33.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18662" CreationDate="2013-12-12T22:17:23.837" Score="7" ViewCount="2383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.benhaywardcycles.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&amp;amp;productId=432&quot;&gt;Airnimal Joey&lt;/a&gt; with 8 (internal, Shimano Inter 8) rear gears. I wanted to install drops handlebars  and the shifters. I got the Shimano Sora ST-3300-8 Right / Rear 8 Speed Shifter, which I thought will be perfect since there are 8 gears in my bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately my local bike shop told me that the these shifters are not going to work with the internal gears. What are my options in this case? I can always change the gears to the external ones but that would probably be quite expensive as I think I would have to replace the wheels. What are the other options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other shifters than can work with these internal gears? I have heard something about the electronic shifters (or perhaps converters) that can make it work? Or perhaps there is some other (preferably not too expensive) way to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8769" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T14:01:57.060" Title="Shifters and internal gears" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18661" CreationDate="2013-12-13T00:48:37.660" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical way of using a Shimano IGH with a dropbar is using a device called a Hubbub. It is essentially a little handlebar that plugs into the right hand side of the drops and gives you a mount for the usual twist shifter which comes with the IGH (This is what I would recommend). Another alternative is mounting it on the center of the bar with an extender like the Minoura space grip (though this is more annoying and less robust than the former option). JTek also makes a bar end shifter designed for drop bars as well. I have seen Walmart bikes with gripshifts in the center of dropbars, but these have bars that have essentially been cut in half, gripshifts installed and then bolted together according to the internet (google GMC Denali bicycle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can look up (or measure) the cable pull for your IGH system, depending on if its roughly equally spaced, you may be able to rig a pulley system like a Problem Solvers Travel Agent to change the cable pull to work with the brifters okay. I think I read somewhere this works with some nexus hubs, but I could just be imagining. EDIT: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/hiawathacyclery/2348490318/in/set-72157604007257815/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/hiawathacyclery/2348490318/in/set-72157604007257815/&lt;/a&gt; indicates some bike shop has managed to use a travel agent to get it to work: &quot;That silver gizmo on the downtube shifter boss is a travel agent, intended to make short-pull brake levers work with v-brakes (aka linear pull). Coincidentally, it also amplifies the cable pull the correct amount to make an 8sp bar-end shifter index for the Alfine/Nexus 8sp hub. It works surprisingly well in the friction mode, too. ... It's as simple as that. However, I make no promises that this is a safe configuration or that it won't shorten the hub's lifespan. There is a small hesitation between gears 4 and 5, but it clicks into gear when the pressure on the pedal is relaxed slightly. Of course, anybody who's ever ridden an old 3-speed knows this already.... I should add that I believe the Alfine is a better choice than the Nexus. The reason is that the Alfine is more or less silent - any noise you hear is probably the result of a misplaced shift. ... Oh yeah, and we used an extra inline barrel adjuster on the outbound end of the travel agent. This is where the cable tension is adjusted to tune the shifting. The travel agent's barrel adjuster really just tensions the cable between the travel agent and the shifter.&quot; It looks like the travel agent mount is a custom one from Hiawatha Cyclery though (but shouldn't be hard to rig one up yourself). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thread on bicycles.SE (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9731/is-it-possible-to-use-road-style-brifters-with-an-internal-gear-hub&quot;&gt;Is it possible to use road-style brifters with an internal gear hub?&lt;/a&gt;) says the Versa VRS-8 shifters are designed for this application, but I've never heard of them before. They also mention Sturmey-Archer hubs have brifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching to a derailleur and getting the wheel rebuilt may be possible, but you still have the expense of a derailleur, wheel rebuild, and possibly the purchase of an adaptor claw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, not directly related: Installing drops changes the riding geometry of a bike - make sure you can still ride the bike with drops before buying something like a Hubbub since they're not cheap (though it shouldn't be hard to rig up something like that on your own).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it seems your bike is fitted with V-brakes which have different cable pull than other brakes. You need to either get the Tektro RL540 (or equivalent) brake levers and use bar end / hubbub/ some other shifter mount, or use travel agents with STI shifters if you're able to get them to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, some companies like Origin8 make bar ends with drops (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.origin-8.com/product-description/?prod_model_uid=1596&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.origin-8.com/product-description/?prod_model_uid=1596&lt;/a&gt;). Not ideal, but might be something to look at. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T14:01:57.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-13T02:28:14.010" Score="2" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm casually researching building a 36er bike, preferably mountainbike style. I'm looking for the experience of others on this. I would like to own it more for curiosity sake than any other, but would still like it to ride reasonably well and not be ridiculously heavy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any frame builders in the US who can put together a decent alloy frame and fork to get me started on this project? Any experiences from others who have tried or succeeded in doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5439" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T11:11:00.967" Title="Building a 36er bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-12-16T22:17:29.663" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18443" CreationDate="2013-12-13T05:18:29.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option could be the Blackburn EX-1 rack. I've used it on my cross bike due to it not having rack mounts and it carried my bike camping supplies quite well. It also comes with the long skewer. Also compared to a lot of racks it is fairly cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might not be quite as easy to remove/install if you don't have rack mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_557875_-1___202601&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blackburn EX-1 @ Nashbar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8771" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T05:18:29.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18663" CreationDate="2013-12-13T06:57:47.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclophiliac.com/american-custom-handmade-road-bike-frame-builders/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Directory Of Custom American Handmade Road Bike Frame Builders&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!forum/framebuilders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Framebuilders&lt;/a&gt; on Google groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with your project! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T06:57:47.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18663" CreationDate="2013-12-13T12:57:15.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was an article in the CTC magazine recently about a guy who'd built one. Their website has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pimcycles.co.uk/36er-faq/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; which might be of interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyres/tubes from unicycles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Needed very large disk rotors to make it stop 203mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claimed to fit people of 5ft 3in to 6ft 5in (yes, I was surprised).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I've spotted an &lt;a href=&quot;http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=163676&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example here&lt;/a&gt; which looks a lot like the picture in the magazine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2013-12-15T11:11:00.967" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T11:11:00.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18681" CreationDate="2013-12-13T16:23:24.240" Score="2" ViewCount="1213" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the image: &lt;em&gt;How do I securely attach the cable to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axa-stenman.com/en/bicycle-components/lighting/dynamos/quattro/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dynamo&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6wB2P.png&quot; alt=&quot;Annotated photo of dynamo and cable&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the obvious, threaded the cable through one of the holes in the plastic cover, and pressed the cover snugly onto the socket. This was OK for some rides, but in the end the plastic cover fell off and the cable is loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7946" LastEditorUserId="7946" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T15:06:41.430" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T09:21:51.780" Title="How to securely connect cable to AXA Quattro dynamo?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;electric-power&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18643" CreationDate="2013-12-13T16:28:16.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Merino is not magic, if you get it soaked it's uncomfortable and in hot weather it's probably more insulation that you need. It's just better than most other alternatives when the weather gets bad, ( cotton for instance, which can be deadly when soaked in hypothermic conditions. Merino also doesn't get as clammy as some synthetics ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waterproof and moderate to heavy levels of exercise mean you are going to get soaked no matter what base layer you have on. The key to staying comfortable is to not get wet in the first place and the only way to do that is effective layering with breathable garments. Despite all the marketing there is no such thing as a waterproof breathable fabric that will be breathable enough for moderate exercise.[1] &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's raining hard, you don't have much choice. So you want the base layers to retain some insulation when they get wet. Merino is good for that. In this case I actually prefer to use it as a mid-layer with a very breathable synthetic knit underneath. Your body heat can dry the inner layer and the merino will absorb some of the moisture before it condenses on the waterproof layer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with merino as a single layer is that it is not at all windproof. When biking in cold weather you really need at least some windblocking. A light nylon vest or windshirt works pretty well for that. Bike specific vests with windblock fronts and breathable mesh backs are really nice layering pieces. Softshell jackets with some wind blocking and good breathablity will also stand up to light to moderate rain for much longer than you might expect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]- Well that's been my experience in the last 45 years, for some people it works I guess. Of all the one's I've tried eVent comes the closest to actually working as advertised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T16:28:16.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17530" CreationDate="2013-12-13T16:55:05.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many sites on the web for calculating spoke lengths. Some of them have pre-filled settings for hubs and wheels, &lt;a href=&quot;http://leonard.io/edd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://leonard.io/edd/&lt;/a&gt; others ask for exact dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old adage of measure twice and cut once applies here so I would say go for at least 3 sites and check that they tally up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not forgetting Sheldon Brown's page, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#length&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#length&lt;/a&gt; which links to some spreadsheets. Worth a read anyway if you are building your own wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the simplest though is to take it into your local bike shop and get them to measure up as then you can bring them back when they don't fit. You may want to have a go with some of the online ones then see if the bike shop agrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6313" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T16:55:05.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-15T20:30:04.697" Score="4" ViewCount="1219" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some  options for a seatpost remote cables on frames without a pre designed route?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering a dropper post but would only do this if I was able to mount a remote as I like the continuous flow of being able to change things on the go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike I spend most of my time on at the moment is a steel hardtail which under the top tube has a route for two gear cables and a brake hose (FD-RB-RD). I'm wondering if there was anyway to snuggly attach two lines to the brake hose hangers or if there is another tidy and safe alternative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-12-15T21:47:50.797" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T13:01:25.253" Title="Remote drop seatpost cable route" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-16T03:49:27.180" Score="6" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, when patching a tube, the newly placed patch will peel off when removing the backing. Sometimes I have this problem and sometime I don't and I'm not sure what the difference is. Is it the age of the glue/solvent? Not sanding enough? The temperature? The amount of time I'm waiting for the glue to dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastEditorUserId="2123" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T04:09:59.900" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T21:35:17.327" Title="Why would tube patch sometimes peel off with backing?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18673" CreationDate="2013-12-16T04:05:37.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that the amount of time I let the glue dry makes the biggest difference. It really needs to get from &quot;wet&quot; to &quot;tacky&quot; to work best. Scraping the tube and the glue brand make a bit of difference too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the patch seems relatively well stuck, but comes up when you try to take the backing off, just leave the backing on; it won't hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T04:05:37.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18601" CreationDate="2013-12-16T06:37:14.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon fibre frames and forks don't have the same amount of travel (shock absorbing capability) as shocks. I had to dig up to get some evidence and from an old Trek Madone brochure I found some vertical compliance numbers, which were based on 2007 models:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scott Addict, ~0.3 inch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orbea Orca, ~0.4 inch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specialized Roubaix SL, ~0.5 inch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specialized Tarmac SL and Trek Madone ~0.6 inch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, on Trek website, they say their Trek Domane has at least twice the compliance of other bikes, on the generous side that would be 1.3 inch using their own data. That's only 33 mm of travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, maybe watching Paris-Roubaix video can convince you either way, either you think they're crazy or that road bikes are not too bad in that kind of awful condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, carbon bikes are not only lighter, they also look good ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T06:37:14.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18673" CreationDate="2013-12-16T12:22:46.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One critical step that's often missed is thoroughly bedding the patch.  After installing it (I prefer the glue to not be totally dry but with a few specks of &quot;damp&quot; yet) but before removing the plastic backing you take something like a smooth-ended tire iron and rub it slowly back and forth across the patch, pressing hard.  This assures that the patch, tube, and glue have fused together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then leave the plastic backing on, as it helps prevent the patch from sticking to the inside of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T12:22:46.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18679" CreationDate="2013-12-16T13:08:59.637" Score="4" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is known that, while climbing, one should apply consistent and maximum weight to their saddle, in order to have precious rear tire traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other day I was going down a dirt road, and the road irregularities and scattered stones, bounced the rear wheel maybe  up to 15-20cm in the air. My concerns are two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loss of rear traction, while the wheel is in air&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the saddle hitting me from behind, and throwing me over the handlebhars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Should I attempt to apply some pressure on the saddle? In what way?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I imagine that I can close my tights, thus clamping the seat and having some control over it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T14:20:57.227" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T14:20:57.227" Title="Should I apply pressure on the saddle during downhill on a rigid frame" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18678" CreationDate="2013-12-16T14:07:34.913" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. If you sit on the saddle then you become connected with the bike. That means that the next hit from the ground will be transmitted as is on you and you'll most probably go flying in an uncontrolled manner, usually nose heavy, and you don't want that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from getting rest or pedaling, the only case where you touch the saddle is with your inner thigh (one, not both of them) in some offcamber cornering scenarios. But I think this is irrelevant to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General rule for descending on rough terrain is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heels down, applying max pressure on pedals (that's for flat pedals)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;body in attack position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hands relaxed, ready to act as suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knees relaxed, ready to act as suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stay low&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look ahead, not down to your front wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T14:07:34.913" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16102" CreationDate="2013-12-16T14:27:37.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Shimano Tech Doc for the Shimano BR-5700 (SI-8JC0A-002-00) says &quot;Use the ST-5700/5703, BL-TT79 with the BR-5700. Do not use the BR-5700 in combination with previous STI levers for road riding or with the BL-R770/BL-R550 brake levers for flat handlebars, otherwise the braking performance provided will be much too strong&quot;. You can try it, but I don't think it should be recommended -- since brakes are the most important safety equipment on your bike, its not really a place where you should be experimenting against the manufacturer too much (if you value your face) IMO. You may be able to adjust the cable pull of the levers appropriately with a travel agent though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other things you can do are make sure your current brakes have good quality pads and are set up properly. Even a great brake will perform poorly if you don't do this. As for alternatives, try the SRAM Apex brakeset with the SRAM 500 brake levers. Alternatively, buy some silver calipers and (carefully) paint them black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T14:27:37.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18667" CreationDate="2013-12-16T14:33:52.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zweirad-fuhr.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shop&lt;/a&gt; where the dynamo was bought, and let me explain&#xA;how to connect a cable. My summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unplug the plastic cover from the correct socket: One is for ground,&#xA;one for phase.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thread the dismantled tip through one of the two holes in the cover.&#xA;The length of the dismantled tip should be so that part of it&#xA;protrudes below.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bend the protruding piece by 180°. The plastic cover is recessed to&#xA;accommodate the piece. See the photo below for the final result.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Press the plastic cover on the socket.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When posting the question, I had missed step three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IGU46.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of plastic cover with cable&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7946" LastEditorUserId="7946" LastEditDate="2013-12-20T09:21:51.780" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T09:21:51.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18671" CreationDate="2013-12-16T14:46:32.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It partially depends on where the cable comes out of the post. If it's from the top you can route the cable across the bottom of the top tube and up to the handle bar or down the seat tube and up the down tube. On the other hand, if the cable comes out of the bottom of the post, you can try to go out the bottom of the seat tube and up the down tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is also becoming more common on frames without designated routing for dropper posts is to run a 1x setup and re-use the routing for the front derailleur cable for the dropper cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T14:46:32.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18685" CreationDate="2013-12-16T20:58:55.453" Score="3" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a bicycle that would be closest to the design that was &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_city_bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;popular in Russia&lt;/a&gt;, something with a high handlebar, relatively large wheels, and relatively short distance from the saddle to the handlebar. Which types of American bicycles should I look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8785" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T15:24:34.743" Title="What type of bicycle is closest to European city bike?" Tags="&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16102" CreationDate="2013-12-16T21:55:46.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tektro road brakes will work just fine with those levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Road-Caliper-Brakes/Tektro-R539-Road-Caliper-Set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jensonusa.com/Road-Caliper-Brakes/Tektro-R539-Road-Caliper-Set&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's what I use on my road bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T21:55:46.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18683" CreationDate="2013-12-17T00:15:16.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US, such bicycles have the name &quot;Dutch&quot; bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess, &quot;Popular in Russia&quot; mean &quot;produced in Russia&quot;. Russia have never imported European bicycles. This is type of simplified utilitarian bicycle with single speed, kick back brake, fenders and rear rack. The rider position is upright and relaxed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastEditorUserId="5932" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T15:32:50.357" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T15:32:50.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18683" CreationDate="2013-12-17T03:13:51.823" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Dutch bike&quot; is a good answer, but it won't necessarily find you all the possibilities; &quot;transpo(rtation) bike&quot; tends toward the Dutch. Besides what you already mentioned in your question, these bikes typically have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mixte or other step-through geometry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;internally-geared hubs for ease of maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simple shifting, typically 3 or 7-8 gears (though with today's internal-hub selection, 11 can be found)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clothing protection, from chain guards and fenders to (less commonly) skirt/coat guards on the rear wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;racks or rack braze-ons, minimally in the rear but sometimes front as well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US bicycle brands that offer bikes of this sort include &lt;a href=&quot;http://electrabikes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Electra&lt;/a&gt; (Amsterdam, perhaps the Townie), &lt;a href=&quot;http://civiacycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Civia&lt;/a&gt; (Twin City), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.linusbike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Linus&lt;/a&gt; (Dutchi, perhaps the Mixte), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.breezerbikes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Breezer&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://publicbikes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Public&lt;/a&gt; (mixte and step-through models). Trek made one called the Belleville that was discontinued (it was a heavy and inflexible beast; I considered buying one) but might still be available used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pashley.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pashley&lt;/a&gt; makes several models of Dutch bike (e.g. the Princess and Roadster models). A few US distributors will import a Pashley, I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastEditorUserId="3631" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T21:33:34.333" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T21:33:34.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18701" CreationDate="2013-12-17T06:03:25.507" Score="12" ViewCount="20013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am completely new to riding bikes and know that are usually filled with air but nowadays some people fill them with Nitrogen instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know why they prefer to fill their tires with nitrogen as it is more costly than filling them with air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of filling tires with Nitrogen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8791" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T06:03:10.310" LastActivityDate="2020-03-16T09:39:16.073" Title="What are the advantages of filling tires with Nitrogen instead of air?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18693" CreationDate="2013-12-17T09:27:19.343" Score="18" ViewCount="23832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard that bikes with hydraulic brakes should not be left upside down. If they are, 15 minutes should be allowed before the bike is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any truth in this? What process could be happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking this because I sometimes leave my bike upside-down overnight, to remove any water from inside the frame. Today I noticed some oil on the inside of the lever of my BR-M445L.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T09:06:46.727" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T09:06:46.727" Title="Is it harmful for a hydraulic brakes bike to be put upside down" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-17T10:44:46.610" Score="5" ViewCount="10612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to develop a bicycle on my own for a competition. But the main requirement of it is that it must be able to develop a maximum speed. If I am able to cast the sprockets with gear ratio say 10:1 or something like 100:1, will there be any practical hindrance to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8795" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T18:57:32.843" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T20:13:41.217" Title="Why can't the gear ratio be something like 100:1? Is it practically possible?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18691" CreationDate="2013-12-17T11:05:54.337" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two risks to turning your hydraulic brakes upside-down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake system isn't filled to overflowing with hydraulic fluid: there's likely to be a small air bubble. Normally, this sits at the highest point of the system: the oil reservoir at the brake lever. There, it's not compressed by the piston when you brake, so it can't interfere with braking. If you up-end your bike, air bubbles might travel through the system to the brake pads. If they don't manage to make it back up to the reservoir before you want to brake, you might find your brakes are squishier than usual. 15 minutes is perhaps a pessimistic estimate, and it's not that much of a risk unless you get on your bike and right away need to brake very hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other potential problem is if the seals in the oil reservoir aren't quite tight. You might not notice in normal use, because they're at the top, but when they're at the bottom of the system, the pressure might let some brake fluid seep out. If you notice this happening, stop turning your bike upside-down, and make sure to check that you still have enough fluid to brake properly. If it keeps happening after you've re-tightened the seal, you may need to change the rubber grommet(s). Often rubber seals are dissolved over time by the oil, and stop doing their job properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said in the comments, you'd be better off avoiding the need to turn your bike upside-down. Find where the water is getting into the frame and seal any gaps. Some bikes already come with holes in the bottom in case they need to drain, and you might consider adding your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T11:05:54.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18692" CreationDate="2013-12-17T11:24:26.767" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main hindrance will be actually getting going from a standstill.&#xA;This kind of thing has been done quite a bit and is called motor-pacing and involves riding a very highly geared (usually fixed-gear) bike behind a fast car with some kind of fairing to reduce wind resistance on the bike. Speeds of well over 100mph have been reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of bike is totally unsuitable for riding anywhere but a specially controlled long straight under the right conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this &lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/70921986&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; for an idea of what's involved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T14:36:48.397" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T14:36:48.397" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18692" CreationDate="2013-12-17T11:27:48.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of obvious problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll never ever be able to pedal 100:1 with normal wheel sizes, even with a fully-faired bicycle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smallest cogs are eleven teeth iirc, so you'd have to have a 1100-teeth chainring, which is approximately twenty times the size of a 55-teeth chainring, so you'll have clearance problems&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;getting the 1100-teeth chainring to be stiff enough to not wobble under load&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;getting going from a standstill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll probably not be able to have front shifting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But other that that, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastEditorUserId="3186" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T12:35:53.710" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T12:35:53.710" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18699" CreationDate="2013-12-17T14:31:53.637" Score="7" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting studded tires, but I'm concerned about a portion of my commute.  I go down this road both directions: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/maps/preview#!q=+39%C2%B0+40.468%27%2C+-84%C2%B0+14.340%27&amp;amp;data=!1m4!1m3!1d2683!2d-84.2382916!3d39.6744258!4m14!2m13!1m12!3m8!1m3!1d173671!2d-77.1021559!3d38.8808165!3m2!1i2064!2i1342!4f13.1!4m2!3d39.6744667!4d-84.239&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;39° 40.468', -84° 14.340'&lt;/a&gt;.  This 2 lane narrow road has 2 railroad crossings from a parallel track next to the road in order to service a factory.  Both the road and the crossings are poor quality.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the rule of thumb for railroad crossings is perpendicular as possible, this road doesn't allow that.  I'm not talking about the tire falling in the groove along the rail, just the tire trying to climb a rail.  On dry days, no problem, but when they are wet they cause a small slide to the side before the tire goes over the top of the rail.  What I'm worried about is that since the tire engages the track off center, will studs cause me even more troubles by not providing traction to climb the rail and cause the bike to slide out from under me as the tire follows the rail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, the bike is a 2008 Schwinn High Timber, 26x1.95 inch department store mountain front suspension with stock dirt trail tires.  Any tires I plan on buying are urban 26x1.50 to 26x1.75.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T13:51:59.097" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T13:51:59.097" Title="Do studded tires make less than ideal railroad crossings worse?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;rails&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18703" CreationDate="2013-12-17T16:55:46.660" Score="2" ViewCount="1285" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purchased a used bike for my child a few months ago. It is one of those where to brake you pedal backwards. Anyways, I was noticing that she was having a hard time starting. Once she got going, everything was fine. Upon closer examination, I noticed that the sprocket on the back was slipping. It would turn, but the wheel wouldn't turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8797" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T19:20:11.573" Title="Rear sprocket slips" Tags="&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18696" CreationDate="2013-12-17T17:04:00.847" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll be fine. You might experience some slip, but not enough to cause you to come off the bike or get stuck, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three reasons I'll think you'll be alright:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your tires are also made of rubber, not just metal studs and will deform while on/around the rail. This means that some portion of the rubber tire will be contacting the rail and providing grip.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have any speed at all your tire will cross the rail quickly and not spend much time trying to grip it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The odds of both tires being on the rail at the same time, for any length of time, are pretty low, so the rear tire will be pushing forward or the front will pull enough to get you across it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there's a small technique that will help you out regardless of conditions and tires: the &lt;em&gt;bunny hop&lt;/em&gt;. By lifting even your front tire over the rail, you've eliminated half of your traction problem. Getting the back tire up will pretty much erase the issue all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T17:04:00.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18688" CreationDate="2013-12-17T17:04:58.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest advantage to filling your tires with Nitrogen is &lt;strong&gt;consistency&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air pressure fluctuates based on temperature, whereas Nitrogen fluctuates to a much much lower degree. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair-questions/4302788&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair-questions/4302788&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;While this article is talking about car tires, the principle is the same. People who ride competitively can have an advantage with Nitrogen simply because the pressure is always where they want it. Also, if you ride your bike a lot in many different weather conditions, Nitrogen can save you money in the long run since your tires wear slower (assuming you always keep the tires at the ideal pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8798" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T17:04:58.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18688" CreationDate="2013-12-17T17:44:07.517" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some compelling reasons for filling vehicle tires with pure nitrogen in performance situations, but for bike tires it's just snake oil. There aren't substantial enough temperature fluctuations in a bike tire to justify the pressure consistency argument. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that the air you breathe and fill your tires with is more than three-quarters Nitrogen, so this isn't as special as it may sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T22:07:07.967" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T22:07:07.967" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18691" CreationDate="2013-12-17T17:53:08.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only if the brakes have been poorly bled or maintained, in which case you can run into the problems that Dan pointed out. If everything is as it should be, it should not cause any problems. If your brakes become squishy then they need to be bled. Air in the system is never a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T17:53:08.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18698" CreationDate="2013-12-17T19:20:11.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess that the spring isn't hold the sprocket well. The best is to bring the bike to shop to repair it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But if you want to repair it all alone, first get your rear wheel off, get the sprocket off and check the 3 teeth inside the sprocket - they have to be perfect half-circles. If they aren't, you should replace it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The spring must touch itself on its' ends. If it's not touching, put it pliers that way that the ends of spring will be out of pliers and squeeze it more than needed, so the ends will come round one on other, then turn the spring this way that the ends will be inside the pliers and squeeze it again. Check the spring, that it tight enough.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Put the sprocket on back. To return the spring you should use a screwdriver or something.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the problem still exists (though it shouldn't), it's inside the wheel, and there is more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T19:20:11.573" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18688" CreationDate="2013-12-17T20:54:05.663" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several advantages, most of which apply only marginally to bicycles. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://getnitrogen.org/why/&quot;&gt;nitrogen seller&lt;/a&gt; lists all of them, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.racinginamerica.com/blog/how-much-impact-does-nitrogen-really-have-your-tires&quot;&gt;other sites&lt;/a&gt; list &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.racq.com.au/motoring/cars/car_advice/car_fact_sheets/nitrogen_for_tyres&quot;&gt;pros and cons&lt;/a&gt;. The key thing is that it's not about adding nitrogen so much as reducing oxygen, water and other gases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nitrogen molecules are larger than water, oxygen and most others, so they percolate through tyres more slowly. This means tyres stay at a usable pressure longer. This is the main benefit that a cyclist will see.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nitrogen changes pressure with temperature slightly less than water does. But bicycle tyres stay close to ambient temperature almost always.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nitrogen is less reactive than oxygen, so your tubes will last a little longer. But since tubes normally fail due to punctures rather than oxygen embrittlement it's going to be tricky to measure. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the nitrogen in a bicycle tube will not be in contact with the rim, so the silly motorist argument about less rim corrosion doesn't apply to bicycles at all. In compensation bicycles get a much simpler change-over: just deflate the tube, squeeze all the air out of it, then inflate it with nitrogen. No need for repeated inflate-purge cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But remember that the difference is only in the 20% of the molecules that you've changed from &quot;other&quot; to nitrogen, 80% are nitrogen in both cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, due to the difference in percolation rates, over time the air in your tyres will slowly become more nitrogen-rich (the other gases percolate out faster than the nitrogen). If you get no punctures, after a few years your tyre might contain over 80% nitrogen!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T20:54:05.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4266" CreationDate="2013-12-17T21:47:06.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two folders that I use regularly.  I have a Raleigh Twenty that I upgraded with a 5 speed SRAM IGH, and a Bike Friday NWT with a SRAM Dual Drive.  I use the Twenty as my &quot;dirt&quot; bike; for local errands on the dirt roads in my community.  The NWT is my flyer and goes along with me on trips in it's suitcase.  The Twenty cost me $40 on Craigslist.  I spent another 3 or 400 on it upgrading almost everything but buying used.  It's a monster and a bit lighter than it was when I bought it.  The SRAM 5 speed works fine for the rolling hills around here but, while I have taken it on the airplane, is a lot more work to take apart and pack than the Bike Friday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8802" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T21:47:06.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18688" CreationDate="2013-12-18T00:24:10.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the morning of triathlon competition, when sun comes up and air became hotter, you'll hear blowing tire every several minutes over racks with couple thousand bikes. So, if you don't want surprise in the race day, you can use dry nitrogen or even dry air for tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year my tire blew up on the hot intersection on red light also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think if there any performance advantage using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T00:24:10.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18759" CreationDate="2013-12-18T16:55:52.237" Score="1" ViewCount="936" Body="&lt;p&gt;One for the Cannondale nuts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a real soft spot for the Cannondale six13 and have been after one for ages. A 52cm has popped up for sale which would be ideal but I've noticed that it has a aluminium top tube rather than the carbon top tube I've seen on other examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this because of the size? Do all 52cm six13's have aluminium top tubes? Or did they change at some point? It has the carbon down tube like all other six13's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8816" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T18:08:13.903" Title="Cannondale six13 52cm Carbon top tube?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18708" CreationDate="2013-12-18T17:25:42.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my research on your question, it seems that the 52cm Cannondale six13 Road Bikes should have aluminum head tube, seat tube and rear triangle, with the top tube and down tube being carbon fiber. Here's a very good link that describes the Cannondale six13. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/latest-bikes/road-bike/cannondale/six13/prd_321143_5668crx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/latest-bikes/road-bike/cannondale/six13/prd_321143_5668crx.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T17:25:42.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18692" CreationDate="2013-12-18T19:02:43.090" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers given here are correct in that there are physical limitations to the size of a single chainring; however, you can get around that limitation by building a &quot;double reduction&quot; gearing system where you sequentially link, say, a 4-to-1 gear ratio with another 4-to-1 gear ratio to get a final ratio of 16-to-1. As noted above, Fred Rompelberg set a speed record at 269 km/h by using a double reduction gear: a 70/13 connected to a 60/15 for a final total gear ratio of 21.5. His wheels were 18 inches in diameter and his tires were about an inch thick, so each rotation of his feet around the crank moved the bike about 35 meters. 269 km/h is 75 meters/second, so his cadence at top speed was just under 130 rpm. Below, you will see that this will turn out to be important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now we come to the real limiting issue. Under usual conditions, your maximum speed is limited by the power you can produce, not your gear ratio. The power needed to cycle on flat smooth ground with no head or tailwind has two components: a component needed to overcome aerodynamic drag and a component needed to overcome rolling and mechanical drag. Aerodynamic drag force varies with the square of airspeed, so the power needed to overcome aerodynamic drag force varies roughly with the cube of speed. On the other hand, rolling and mechanical drag force is nearly constant, so the power needed to overcome it varies roughly linearly with speed. In the Rompelberg speed attempt, and in other similarly &quot;paced&quot; attempts, he rode behind a specially-designed motor vehicle designed to minimize aerodynamic drag. However, the rolling drag remains. The power needed to overcome rolling drag is approximately Crr * total mass (in kg) * speed (in m/s) * the gravitation constant (9.8 m/sec^2) where Crr is the &quot;coefficient of rolling resistance&quot; and can be thought of as including bearing and other transmission losses. On firm ground with modern tires and a modern chain-drive system, Crr is often in the range of .005. Thus, moving a total mass of 100 kg at 75 meters/sec would require around 370 watts of power, on flat firm ground in the absence of aerodynamic drag. If the pacing vehicle were unable to eliminate all aerodynamic drag, the power demand would be higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we turn to human production of needed power. Power is the product of force and velocity, and we can either produce a given amount of power with a combination of high pedal force and low leg speed, or high leg speed and low pedal force. As you might expect, pedal force and leg speed are inversely related: the higher the pedal force, the lower our leg speed and the higher our leg speed the lower the pedal force we can produce, so there is a trade-off between the two. In general, it has been observed that for most humans, power is maximized at a point where leg speed and pedal force are roughly half of their maximums (that is, if we know a rider's maximum leg speed and maximum leg force, power is maximized in the neighborhood of half of the maximums). For many trained cyclists, maximum cadence is in the range of 200 to 250 rpm, and we can generally observe that they produce maximum power in the neighborhood of 120 rpm. And that is consistent with our observation that Rompelberg's speed record was set at just under 130 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So although you could construct a bicycle with 100-to-1 gearing (via a double or triple reduction system), you probably would not be able to produce the required power at the &quot;sweet spot&quot; in cadence in order to attain your speed goal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T19:23:08.823" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T19:23:08.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18692" CreationDate="2013-12-18T20:13:41.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem is that the gear ratios of a transmission multiply or divide torque. A 100:1 transmission means that the torque you are generating is being divided by 100. If the resulting torque is less than what is needed to move the bike, then you won't be able to turn the pedals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are on a smooth, level road, with well inflated tires, and no headwind, then the torque required to begin moving is close to zero, and so having your torque cut by 100 might not be an impediment against beginning to move. However, as soon as you start moving, impedance builds due to air drag and rolling resistance. As soon as this impedance adds up to your torque / 100, you cannot go any faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High gears allow our muscles to work slowly, similar to doing a slow bench press. You probably know from weight lifting that your maximum force is developed during a slow lift. If you can press a 200 pound bar off your chest quickly, that means you can handle quite a bit more weight. Using a high gear is somewhat like doing a slow lift; you're developing a greater force. High gears also allow us to reduce wasteful motion of the legs, improving our efficiency. However, the gear must not be so high that the output torque is less than the force that is required to maintain the desired speed (a force opposite and equal to the total drag).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The increase in gear ratio allows you to develop more torque against the pedal crank, but at the same time, the output torque diminishes. The output torque must not diminish to the point that you cannot maintain speed. So there is a trade-off happening which means there is some optimal point. This point depends on you, of course: your body geometry, strength and weight, and on the conditions: slope, wind, surface, bicycle (tires, etc). Also, the intended riding distance! You might be able to sprint a mile in a high gear that would be inappropriate for you to use for a 100 mile road trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably know from experience that a gear that feels ideal on level ground may be overpowered as soon as you encounter an incline: you make an extra effort, yet the bike slows down. This is because the output torque is too low to push the bicycle up the hill. Switching to a lower gear allows you to then maintain a speed that would be impossible in the high gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T20:13:41.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18714" CreationDate="2013-12-19T04:24:59.097" Score="54" ViewCount="17545" Body="&lt;p&gt;As absurd as it sounds, I was curious as to how a bike would handle with the front tire filled with water.  I wonder if steep hill climbs would be easier (particularly for a mountain bike):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) to bring the center weight forward&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) to use the increase rotational momentum to carry the speed through to the next pedal stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8809" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T20:13:15.327" Title="What are the effects of completely filling tires with water instead of air?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18713" CreationDate="2013-12-19T04:24:59.097" Score="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happened to do just that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took an old hand pump and an inner tube to the bath tub.  Submerged the pump and pre-filled the tube with water, complete with burping out any air bubbles.  With the tube moderately full and free from air, I put it on the rim with the tire.  Then the final pressure up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to notice is that the pump operates with lots of resistance (water flows a lot slower than air through those tiny parts).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I pushed each stroke of the pump, the resistance difficult yet constant.  I kind of expected the resistance to increase as I pressured up the tire, but it didn't.  It was a solid stopping point, halfway through the last stroke the tire wouldn't take any more water. (I shouldn't have been surprised, water is one of the least compressible substances around!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now out for a ride to test this out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed to carry the bike the front was a bit heavier (heavier is exactly what most cyclists would &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; want; but hey, lets see if there's some benefits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oddly, the bike didn't feel all that different.  Just slightly front heavy.  But once I got some speed the steering became really quite stable.  A ride through the forest and I could quickly pin point my leans for corners, it was soooo smooth!  Like the steering of a motorbike; I assume the extra rotational inertia in the front wheel added to the smoothing gyroscopic effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mucking about, I tried a wheelie.  It took a bit of getting used to for lifting it up, but once up it was also very very smooth.  I was never that good an wheelies, but now I seemed to be able to ride for as long as I wanted.  Try balancing a baseball bat with the heavy side down, it's actually much easier with more weight at the top!  And the extra gyroscopic effect made it easier to steer the wheelie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When stopped at a light or something, pick up the front tire and it would slowly start to rotate on it's own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was fun, so I kept it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next phenomenon was a puncture.  sure enough, one day riding on a nice sunny day... I feel tiny sprinkles of water; I had a tiny tiny leak and I was actually spraying a very fine stream.  The tire hadn't lost much though, so I double timed it to my destination in hopes of avoiding changing in the field.  On arrival, the tire seemed really quite full still.  When off the bike the tire really wasn't getting flat. I left it.  I continued to ride for a week or so, sometimes the leak would come back... sometimes it would go away.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm speculating, as I only did this once... but it occurred to me that with water being incompressible, the small amount of leaking water was very little volume but nearly all of the pressure.  The tire was still full and held it's shape, but no pressure to force the leak when I wasn't on it (it was obviously a very small leak). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually I had to add some air, now and again (too lazy to put water in, and too curious to see how bad the water/air mix would be).  Soon the water/air mix was sloshing inside and causing a lot of resistance, and that became the end of my experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I did not see any improvement for hill climbs, or maintaining pedal momentum; only wheelies and cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8809" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T04:24:59.097" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16127" CreationDate="2013-12-19T10:54:28.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sprocket, cassette and chain match together.  An old set will work well but change one part and you'll be skipping.  Often people will wear out their favorite gears, change the chain and then only the less favorite gears work reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the chain will actually ride up high on the teeth, eventually so high that they're not all in position and the chain-reaction of skip occurs; the sprocket teeth graze the chain links uncontrollably in that ever-so-painful sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The derailleur is surely not the problem (as you noticed).  If it were you would first here the clack-clack-clack from the out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8809" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T10:54:28.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14371" CreationDate="2013-12-19T12:26:25.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems it was a combination of a worn chain (my fault) and defective shifter, the latter not much of a surprise given that the cycle came from Wheelies, who managed to fit this folding bicycle's seat post collar back to front so it couldn't be properly tightened in place without several times the rated force for the quick-release style bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6096" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T12:26:25.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18671" CreationDate="2013-12-19T12:42:31.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easy method is to use cable ties and route it where you like. Remember to add Biketape (transparent frame protection tape, aka helitape) to prevent the cable rubbing the paint off your frame etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7593" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T12:42:31.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18718" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-19T12:44:38.410" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-19T12:44:38.410" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T12:44:38.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18719" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-19T12:44:38.410" Score="0" Body="Cross Country cycling, usually on a mountain bike, but also cyclocross bikes and light hybrids." OwnerUserId="7593" LastEditorUserId="7593" LastEditDate="2013-12-22T21:00:19.203" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T21:00:19.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18721" CreationDate="2013-12-19T13:09:08.420" Score="4" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm moving to the US from the UK and am considering taking my fairly average hybrid road bike with me. It's nothing special but I quite like it and the cost of taking it on a plane doesn't seem to be too much. However, I'm concerned I won't be able to buy new parts etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are sizes for things like brake pads, chains, gear sets, etc. common between the two countries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Sounds like this will be fine. As suggested though, I'll add it's a lower-end Specialized Sirrus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8823" LastEditorUserId="8823" LastEditDate="2013-12-19T15:27:01.537" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T15:27:01.537" Title="Will I have problems maintaining a bike from the UK in the US?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;us&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18720" CreationDate="2013-12-19T14:31:58.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's from one of the big brands (Trek, Specialized, Giant etc.) then you should be fine. Only difference between one bought in the UK and one in the US would be brakes mounted opposite way round (i.e. front brake operated by left lever rather than the right), and maybe paintjob! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5477" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T14:31:58.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18724" CreationDate="2013-12-19T15:01:17.310" Score="6" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a machine that does the lacing  or does it have to be manual work?&#xA;And in the first case, what does it look like and how does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8824" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T13:16:31.040" Title="How are the wheels spokes laced in the bikes you buy at shops?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18722" CreationDate="2013-12-19T16:49:47.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers will use machines to build the wheels, however on top end bikes the manufacturer will build the wheels by hand (a skilled wheel builder's work is considered better than that of a machine).&#xA;Your LBS will unlikeley have a machine to build wheels and this will be done by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary. New bike - wheel was most likeley build by machine. Repairs - wheel was almsot certainley built by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @arne said. You can search youtube for &quot;cycle wheel building machine&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T16:49:47.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18722" CreationDate="2013-12-19T17:09:28.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you buy your wheel from a bike shop and they lace it up for you, it's almost certainly laced by hand as the cost and calibration of the machines are not practical for one-off wheelsets. This is the preferred method and you arguably get a better wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most less expensive wheelsets that are ordered from distributors are machine built, although that is not always the case. For instance, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jbimporters.com/web/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;J&amp;amp;B Importers&lt;/a&gt; is a wholesaler that has a large selection of inexpensive wheelsets, most of which are purportedly hand laced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flipside, nearly all more expensive wheelsets are going to be built by hand, and while I'm sure that somewhere out there a nice/expensive pair of machine built wheels exists, I don't personally know of any examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T17:09:28.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18728" CreationDate="2013-12-20T00:48:58.613" Score="5" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;At what slope will the best bikers (in terms of aerodynamics) on the best bikes roll at a constant speed at 80 km/h on an asphalt surface on a dry day? The reason for this question is because it gives me very accurate information about the force needed to keep the best bikes going at that high a speed. It is also interesting to know the slope at 50 km/h if that is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I could get the answers from watching parts of Tour de France, where they measure speed and slope?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2233" LastEditorUserId="2233" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T12:39:20.857" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T14:14:30.050" Title="At what slope will the best bikes keep a constant speed?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;wind&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18726" CreationDate="2013-12-20T01:35:15.973" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you might expect, the exact down slope you would need for a full answer will depend on how much drag you and your bicycle produce. If you are very aerodynamically efficient and there are few losses through the bearings and tires, the slope can be shallower. If you create a lot of drag either via aerodynamic inefficiency or mechanical and rolling resistance, the slope will need to be steeper. You can calculate the slope yourself if you know the equations for motion on a bicycle and can make reasonable guesses about the parameter values. The equations are given in one of the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9938/how-can-one-estimate-drag-for-a-bicycle/9947#9947&quot;&gt;this bicycles.stackexchange question&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, you are looking for the slope so that while coasting at equilibrium speed the power will be zero; that is, at equilibrium speed you are neither accelerating or decelerating (so the kinetic energy is zero) and you are coasting so the power is zero. That is, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watts = 0 = (Crr + slope) * kg * g * v + 0.5 * rho * CdA * v^3  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where Crr is the coefficient of rolling resistance, kg is the total mass of the rider and bike, g is the gravity constant (9.8 meters/sec^2), rho is the air density in kg/m^3, CdA is the &quot;drag area&quot; (Cd is the coefficient of aerodynamic drag and A is frontal area, so their product Cd*A is also known as the drag area), and v is the speed in meters/sec. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slope for a given speed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equation above can be re-arranged to solve for slope:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;slope = (0.5*rho&lt;em&gt;CdA&lt;/em&gt;v^2)/(kg*g) - Crr&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your question, 80 km/h is 22.2 m/s and 50 km/h is 13.9 m/s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air density, rho, at sea level is typically near 1.2 kg/m^3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crr for a high quality tire on an asphalt road is typically around .0045.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CdA for a rider on a conventional bike in the drops is typically in the range of 0.24 to 0.3 m^2; for a rider on a TT bike in the aerobars, CdA is typically in the range of 0.2 to 0.28 m^2; for a rider in a streamlined fully-faired recumbent bicycle the CdA has been measured at under .02 m^2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you and your bike together weigh a total of 80 kg, rho=1.2, Crr=.0045, and CdA = .24. What is the slope so that you would reach an equilibrium speed of 50 km/h (13.9 m/s) while coasting? That would be  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;slope = (0.5*rho&lt;em&gt;CdA&lt;/em&gt;v^2)/(kg*g) - Crr or&#xA;slope = (0.5*1.2*0.24*13.9^2)/(80*9.8) - .0045&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, the downslope is -0.04, or -4%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you wanted to know how steep the slope would need to be to attain an equilibrium speed of 80 km/h with the same mass, rho, and CdA? That would be -0.095, or -9.5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you wanted to know how steep the slope would need to be to attain an equilibrium speed of 80 km/h in the streamlined Varna Diablo? If one had access to the power and speed data for a speed run, and one also knew the road profile, the air density on the day, the wind speed, and the total mass of vehicle and rider, one can estimate the Crr and CdA given the method described in the linked bicycles.stackexchange answer. I have done that: Crr and CdA appear to be in the range of .0045 and .0175, as noted above. Battle Mountain, NV, where the world human powered vehicle speed runs are attempted, is at an elevation of around 1375 meters (4500 ft) above sea level, but if you could make the run at sea level with a total mass of 90 kg, you could attain an equilibrium coasting speed of 80 km/hr at a down slope of -.011, or -1.1%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terminal Speed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A related question is, given a slope, what would the equilibrium speed be, assuming the slope is long enough to reach maximum speed? This is also known as the &quot;terminal speed.&quot; In this case, we can re-arrange the equations of motion to determine the speed in meters per second, v. That equation is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;v (in m/s) =  sqrt( -2*(Crr+slope)&lt;em&gt;mass&lt;/em&gt;g/(rho*CdA))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if Crr = .0045, slope = -3% = -.03, mass=80, g=9.8, rho=1.2, and CdA = 0.24, then v = 11.78 m/s. To convert to km/h, multiply v by 3.6; v = 11.78 m/s is equivalent to 42.4 km/h or 26.4 mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T01:04:54.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18726" CreationDate="2013-12-20T01:37:08.790" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Varna, which was one of the best bikes in 2003 has &lt;a href=&quot;http://recumbents.com/wisil/whpsc2003/Varna.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;speed + power graphs&lt;/a&gt; up from their Battle Mountain runs that year. At 80kph Sam was putting out about 225 watts, but accellerating. There's also a 0.5° slope to consider. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deferredprocrastination.co.uk/blog/2010/why-a-velomobile-speed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; suggests that the bike uses about 150W at 50mph/80kph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sam weighs about 80kg, the bike about 25kg. Let's call it 110kg once he's dressed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get 150W out of a 110kg weight we need to be falling at 150/110 = 1.4m/s. 80kph is 80/3.6 = 22m/s, so the slope has to be 1.4:22, or about 1:15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining that to avoid rounding during the calculation: 80/3.6/(150/110) = 1:16.3 or 0.06 (around 3 degrees - you'd know it was sloping, but it wouldn't count as a hill to most people)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could expect Sam to coast the Varna down a gentle hill at about 80kph, assuming it was long enough for him to reach that speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T22:38:07.707" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T22:38:07.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16612" CreationDate="2013-12-20T04:08:29.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's two general types of wheel bearings: cup and cone and sealed cartridge bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cup and code bearings were very common years ago and are even still used on some high end Shimano hubs (dura-ace). &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;. These bearings are easily replaceable with minimal tools. If you have these bearings and have worn them down too much, they can damage the bearing race in the hub. In that case you'd need to replace your hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cartridge bearings are more common today. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-the-Point-Cartridge-Bearings-2013.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-the-Point-Cartridge-Bearings-2013.html&lt;/a&gt;). The advantage of a cartridge bearing is that even if it wears badly, it's not going to damage the hub. The disadvantage is that they are pressed into the hub shell and require more (and expensive) tools to service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be surprised if your bike had cup and cone bearings, but the only way to know is to do a little investigation. If the races aren't worn, replacement is quite easy. If you have cartridge bearings, any bike shop can easily press out the old ones and press in the new ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T04:08:29.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9267" CreationDate="2013-12-20T06:05:36.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trials on the N95 concluded that it didn't really do a good job filtering chemical pollution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.controlled-trials.com/ISRCTN74390617&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.controlled-trials.com/ISRCTN74390617&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hypothesis &quot;To test if wearing the R95 Particulate Respirator face mask, produced by 3M reduces levels of pollution exposure biomarkers in 40 healthy volunteers.&quot;  Tests were done in Hanoi, Vietnam, from July to October 2009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23013369&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23013369&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;RESULTS: Forty-four participants (54.5% male, median age 40 years)&#xA;      were enrolled with the majority being motorbike taxi drivers (38.6%)&#xA;      or street vendors (34.1%). The baseline creatinine corrected &#xA;      urinary level for 1-OHP was much higher than other international &#xA;      comparisons: 1020 ng/g creatinine (IQR: 604-1551). Wearing a R95 &#xA;      mask had no significant effect on 1-OHP levels: estimated &#xA;      multiplicative effect 1.0 (95% CI: 0.92-1.09) or other OH-PAHs, &#xA;      except 1-hydroxynaphthalene (1-OHN): 0.86 (95% CI: 0.11-0.96).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CONCLUSIONS: High levels of urine OH-PAHs were found in Hanoi street workers. No effect was seen on urine OH-PAH levels by wearing R95 particulate respirators in an area of high urban air pollution, except for 1-OHN. A lack of effect may be de to gaseous phase PAHs that were not filtered efficiently by the respirator. The high levels of urinary OH-PAHs found, urges for effective interventions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8833" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-05-19T23:18:56.587" LastActivityDate="2018-05-19T23:18:56.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18004" CreationDate="2013-12-20T09:07:02.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most common problem for wrist or shoulder pain is the saddle angle. The shoulders, arms, hands, and wrists need to hold your weight if the saddle points downwards. Hence, the saddle needs to be horizontally aligned. Here is a good manual on how to adjust the saddle: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canyon.com/_en/supportcenter/article.html?supportcenter_categories_id=10&amp;amp;supportcenter_articles_id=148&amp;amp;type=rennrad&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.canyon.com/_en/supportcenter/article.html?supportcenter_categories_id=10&amp;amp;supportcenter_articles_id=148&amp;amp;type=rennrad&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8834" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T09:07:02.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18735" CreationDate="2013-12-20T09:52:14.473" Score="7" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commuting by an MTB, there is a trail at the local park, that is partially blocked by a tree. It has fallen over the trail, forming a triangle with the living trees on the sides. The highest point is maybe 10cm higher than my saddle height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I ride under the tree (at speed), without dismounting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best try has been tilting the bike severely to the side, and crouching onto the outside pedal. Still, I hit my backpack and fell. Other attempts have been even more miserable. What is the correct technique? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T15:44:30.510" Title="How to ride under obstacles" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18755" CreationDate="2013-12-20T10:07:16.380" Score="5" ViewCount="1394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke my pedal today. I own a bmx. It happened when I landed from an american bunnyhop. Any tips to land softly? (I have even bent the rim.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8836" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2013-12-21T14:38:51.680" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T00:12:14.720" Title="BunnyHop Soft Landing" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18732" CreationDate="2013-12-20T10:08:58.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are sure that your backback caused the problem remove it. You can always try more you know. I do not think there is a better way to do such thing. Try lowering the saddle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8836" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T10:08:58.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18732" CreationDate="2013-12-20T10:23:58.487" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 cm from the saddle would be possible if you are talking about XC saddle height and the handlebars are lower than the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way is to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHNrg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to bend and go very deep:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knees bend pointing outside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hands totally straight to the bars so your body moves backwards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;back totally straight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;position your body so the saddle goes exactly between your head and your left or right bicep (whatever works best for you)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look ahead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T10:23:58.487" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18733" CreationDate="2013-12-20T10:37:14.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a modern BMX then the saddle should be super low. If it is not then move it at the very bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BMX bikes are very very stiff (100psi tyres, rigid cromo frame, rock solid wheels) so you need to absorb the imact with your feet and upper body. Landing with the rear wheel first (just slightly) helps trigger the feet at the exactly correct time. Another thing that helps is that when you start descending (from the bunnyhop) you extend your feet in order to give yourself enough room for absorption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't absorb with your feet then the weakest link will have to deal with the whole impact (knees, pedals, head tube of frame etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind though that parts do fail. Broken pedals and bent rims is not something unexpectable in the BMX world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T10:37:14.953" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18732" CreationDate="2013-12-20T13:51:47.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I totally agree with cherouvim's answer, but I want to add another couple possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trials Style&lt;/strong&gt; - If the base of the tree is near to the trail or any part of the tree is a little lower, you can try to treat it like a trials obstacle and get your front wheel up on it, then push off and raise the rear wheel up. This is pretty advanced, but it's an option.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drift/Dab&lt;/strong&gt; - While generally not recommended on most trails and dirt types, you could try turning the bike sideways (with the bike towards the tree), hanging your far foot out (away from the tree) and sliding under it. Once on the other side, turn back into the trail and keep pedaling. Again, not the easiest maneuver, but doable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, I strongly recommend alerting whatever trail maintenance person/body is responsible to have the tree removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T13:51:47.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18740" CreationDate="2013-12-20T14:22:11.063" Score="4" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that in a lot of bikes (though certainly not all), the seat stay and the down tube are parallel or nearly so. Is there any &lt;em&gt;structural&lt;/em&gt; reason why a manufacturer might make that choice or is it a more or less arbitrary choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8838" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T23:57:08.067" Title="Down tube and seat stay" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18738" CreationDate="2013-12-20T15:26:09.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I'm not a frame builder or any type of engineer, I can point a couple reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Geometry&lt;/strong&gt;: The seat stay angle is directly related to the length of the chain stays, which play an important role in the &quot;feel&quot; of a bike. Also the chain stay length changes proportionately with the down tube as the bike size changes; therefore, all frame sizes will retain roughly the same shape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aesthetics&lt;/strong&gt;: Parallel lines are held to be more visually appealing. Look an any example of classic architecture or engineering and you'll see the lines.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there's also some structural reasons about balancing forces and stresses on nthe bike (which probably explains why the seat stays usually meet the seat tube around the same spot as the top tube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T15:26:09.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18738" CreationDate="2013-12-20T16:18:13.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two are not directly related.  On a conventional diamond frame the downtube angle is dependent on the length of the top tube and seat tube, and, of course, the seat tube angle.  The length of the seat stay is dependent on the seat tube length and angle, and the length of the chain stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the two &quot;share&quot; the seat tube length and angle (which is related in part to the overall bike &quot;size&quot;), but the length of the top tube is determined by the desired &quot;reach&quot; of the bike, while the length of the chain stay is determined by the desired overall wheelbase (longer for road bikes, eg), and the wheel size and desired clearance (eg, for fenders) between wheel and seat tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at Google images for bikes you will see a wide variation in relative angles.  Usually the seat stay is at a steeper angle than the downtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T16:18:13.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-20T23:27:29.937" Score="-4" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2014 kink curb and I think I may need to buy new bars because my stem is cutting into them. I don't know though. If anyone could please help me with this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8841" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-12-21T16:42:09.430" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T15:38:39.527" Title="Handlebars are slipping and the stem is cutting into my bars. How do I fix this? New bars and stem or just a new stem?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10326" CreationDate="2013-12-21T11:59:35.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion its purely psychological, unless the grade is less than 6% and theres a headwind. Sitting in the wheel and dragging yourself to the ragged edge is something us taller guys are used to, knowing we'll crush the small guys in the TT.&#xA;Saying that you can sometimes drop back a few metres, just to let the Heart Rate drop that 2/3 BPM that it takes to recover, jump back on the wheel and even attack, (attacking when you are both can sometimes throw you over the edge but conversely the other guy/guys might have been o the limit and don't have it to follow, now you both feel the same but you have a gap, otherwise fair play to catching mate!!) although that takes a huge aerobic engine to recover in 20 seconds from the limit, then to think of attacking its a tactic that feels great looking back on it after.&#xA;Usually, sticking to the wheel is the best, and if your climbing worse because your a KG or 2 heavier, remember you can attack on the Descent!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number 1 rule lads, get those gels in 7/8km before the climb &amp;amp; on the descents, the rest will take care of itself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8842" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T11:59:35.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17313" CreationDate="2013-12-21T15:16:54.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to what others have said, I started getting bad upper-back pain on my commuter bike (probably similar to the bike share bikes) on both short and longer rides (a couple miles to 10 miles). I eventually saw a physical therapist who was able to help me to the point where the problem no longer occurs (even on days where I ride ~20 miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, the problem was my posture, both on the bike and at work in front of the computer. By hunching over, I was pinching the nerves on the back of my neck which caused transfer pain to my upper back. By trying to keep my back straight and my chin at a 90 degree angle, the problem has disappeared. I also adjusted my bike to have a more upright position so I don't have to crane my neck to look ahead, but I personally believe the most benefit came from improving my posture throughout the day at work so that the bike rides would no longer aggravate the problem. I also try to look up with my eyes rather than my whole head as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8084" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T15:16:54.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18747" CreationDate="2013-12-22T00:33:23.993" Score="8" ViewCount="5197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a best practice for centering your handlebars in the stem? Besides eyeballing it, I actually tried measuring distances but found that depending on where I measured from and to I got different results. For example, the screw in the cap to the top of the hoods would show they are off by one amount but measuring to the end of the bars would show a different amount. Is there a most true set of landmarks to use? Does it depend on the quality of the bars? Does it even matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8084" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T22:26:15.953" Title="Is there a recommended way to center your handlebars?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;new-bicycle-assembly&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18744" CreationDate="2013-12-22T01:48:26.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually handle bars have a set of grooves in the middle to grip onto the head stem. When these grooves are wider than the head stem it's easy - just center them so that the same amount is visible on each side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you wouldn't be asking if it was that easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosen the bars and slide them sideways to see the grooves, and make a mark with a pencil or marker on each side of the grooves, with the same gap on each side. Make sure that you'll be able to see the marks when you slide the bar back into the head stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now slide the bars back to the middle, until the gap to each mark is the same, and tighten. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T01:48:26.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9267" CreationDate="2013-12-22T06:58:00.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worn the respro in Beijing for about a year where the air pollution apparently causes lung cancer. Of course, that is a long term effect that is hard to measure immediately, but I can say that the air smells much cleaner and I &quot;feel&quot; better after riding through traffic with the mask on as opposed to without it. Your face gets a bit sweaty, but it can be kind of nice in the winter. Also, you look like bane from batman, which can be a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8844" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T06:58:00.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18744" CreationDate="2013-12-22T07:02:32.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though you have drop bars, and one of your measurements is to the brake hoods. Since those are independently attached to the handlebars, that measurement only tells you that something is off, not what it is (you have two measurements and three unknowns - the bar position in the stem, the left brake level position on the bar and the right brake lever position on the bar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume there are no markings on the bar, and no bulge where the bar thickens to 25mm from 22mm, otherwise you wouldn't be asking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest loosening the stem off and making a mark on the centre point of the bars, measuring from a point that has a sharp edge. If the bars are new the end of the drops is good, but on old bars one or both end is often bent a little. Even 5mm makes a noticeable difference here. If the bars have been taped the tape will also affect the measurement, which is why the bar end points are good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But regardless, the next best way to measure is from the inside of the forward-swept part of the bars. Get a ruler that's longer than the width of the bars and place it on top of the bars, at 90° to the bike's long axis (across the handlebars). Line it up parallel to the bars, so that it's just in front of the cross part. and the same distance forward on both sides. I find that lining up the forward edge of the bars and the back edge of the ruler works well. Then measure off the forward edge of the ruler, since that's on the straight parts of the bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick top view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hp1e5.png&quot; alt=&quot;handlebar top view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally your bars will not curve this much, or you'll use a wider ruler :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lets you measure the exact width of the bars. Halve that, and measure in that far from one side. That's the centre :) Now make a mark there, or better still, mark the ruler and centre the bars in the stem with it in place. A couple of rubber bands can be used to hold the ruler in place while you do this - put them on the rule, put the ruler on the bars, pull a band under the bars and over the end of the rule. Repeat for other side. Now wiggle the bars in to position. Test ride, and make sure it feels right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark with a permanent marker both sides of the stem so you can line it up easily next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, now if you repeat your measurement to the brake hoods you can twist one or both on the bars to get them symmetrical. If you prefer them that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also works for most other curly bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2013-12-23T22:26:15.953" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T22:26:15.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18744" CreationDate="2013-12-22T07:03:22.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the absence of grooves, this analytic geometry solution may work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything is centered, the ends of the handle bars and the front axle will form an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isosceles_trapezoid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;isosceles trapezoid&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin by verifying that the handle bar is centered in the stem. (having the same end to stem measurement on both sides.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;measure from the end of the handle bar to the axle. repeat on other side. If the measurements differ, it is not right, adjust handlebar position to minimize differences in measurement and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get it perfect, don't worry too much, small offsets are compensated for by riders with ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8597" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-12-22T09:40:24.763" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T09:40:24.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18744" CreationDate="2013-12-22T10:06:27.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two items that need to be centered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your handlebars must be centered in the stem. And, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your stem must be centered on the steer tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do those two things in that order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Centering your handlebars on the stem is the easy part. Eyeballing is usually enough. However, if you desire absolute perfection, simply find a point on the handlebars that is easily distinguishable on both sides and measure to the center of the stem (or a stem bolt if they are centered). You want an even measurement on both sides. The point that you choose on the handlebars can be anything so long as it is easily recognizable on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that what you're really concerned with is getting the stem aligned on the steer tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got the handlebars centered within the stem, center the stem on the steer tube. Again, eyeballing this is usually relatively easy. I usually do it by looking at the bike from the front, holding the front wheel between my knees, lining up the rear wheel perpendicular to my body, and aligning the handlebars perpendicular to the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also heard people on this site talk about kicking the frame off to the side and aligning the bars perpendicular to the front wheel. The idea is that what you really want is the handlebars aligned with the front wheel and the frame is a distraction. I have tried this and it didn't work for me. I'm not saying it's a bad approach, I just think it's not the method for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you absolutely need a mathematical method, the isosceles triangle measurements described in Hildred's &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/18748/4239&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; should work magnificently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also mention measuring relative to a screw on the hoods. The hoods should be (more or less) the last thing that you align on your cockpit. Go ahead and put the on at the beginning - they'll help you to get an overview - but make centering the handlebars in the stem and the stem on the steer tube your priorities. Once you've got those in place, then it's time to fine tune your hoods. After all, your hoods should be mounted tightly enough to accommodate every day riding but loosely enough that they rotate rather than break if you fall. A pleasant side effect of this is that with a little oomph you can move them into position sans tools of they're close but not quite right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that your body is not perfectly symmetrical. No one's is. If you get everything measured out and positioned within a nanometer and it doesn't feel right, readjust it to feel right. A comfortable, easily handled steed is far more important than getting it perfect within a nano meter.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T10:13:45.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-22T15:07:27.957" Score="2" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skinny road bikers are all praising their Castelli/Assos bibs. Specially long distance riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 188cm/106kg and my normal ride is something like 100-120km, 2500m gain, 8-9hours in saddle almost not-stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite happy with cheap fake Castelli bibs from China (17 euros or so). I was that happy with some lower level components until I replaced them with upper levels. More joy actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its easy to get reviews for components but not that easy for clothing. Specially clothing dedicated for long distance XC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I can get Castelli Soprasso tights for around 125euros w/ discount which is not much higher then wiggle's dhb brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8410" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T10:18:09.357" Title="Any benifits of upper level bibs for a fat long distance XC biker?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;xc&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17523" CreationDate="2013-12-22T22:28:27.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Fuji VALite 1769 bicycle is a higher-end bike of its time and unless something really bad has happened to it, would definitely be worth getting parts repaired or replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front wheel true and spoke replaced ~ $22&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;handlebar tape that you wrap yourself ~ $8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tune up:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;basic w/ cables ~ $75&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front + rear drivetrain only w/ cables ~ $50&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front wheel repair (called &quot;truing&quot;) should be around $20 plus another dollar or so to replace the broken spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I haven't used hockey tape, others have had success with similar cloth tape as long as you're not buying extremely cheap stuff. You'll get more padding with standard synthetic handelbar tape (contains a bit of foam or synthetic cork) which starts around $8. By watching various youtube videos, you can wrap these yourself very easily. (Also, cheap cloth tape will be more messy and sticky and won't be as easy to unwrap and start over.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reputable, friendly, quality bike shop will help you get your bike in safe, rideable shape for the least amount of money possible. Insist on the bare essentials for a safe ride, but listen to anything that they say is a true hazard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, you can ride a bike frozen in a single usable gear, but a few affordable tweaks of the drivetrain and replaced cables can mean riding a bike that is much more enjoyable and capable of taking you anywhere you want to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your bike and needs, a basic $50 tune up will get them to look at and repair the necessities which wouldn't include the wheel repair and handlebar tape mentioned above. Remind them you're on a budget and are going to try to do some improvements (handlebar tape) on your own. Showing this initiative sometimes helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be wary of anyone that steers you toward purchasing an entirely new bike. A good shop will have low-budget options and might even secretly do a few tweaks and fixes out of pride and a sense of responsibility to someone who is giving such a lovely old bike, new wings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4693" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T22:28:27.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1215" CreationDate="2013-12-22T22:42:24.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like my Spin Doctor Pro G3 due to the stable tripod base that works well inside and out on a variety of surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it might not be necessary for some, I like that I can swivel the bike around the main vertical post to reposition my working angle on the bike (sometimes I'm on a stool). I don't think it's as easy or even possible to do that with some of the bipodal stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people do not like the spinning knob used to operate the clamp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that it allows a nice sense of how tight I'm clamping various bike tubes as I close it. When I'm forced to clamp a thin tube on a road bike frame, I'm not quite as paranoid that I'm going to scratch or dent it. I'm also less likely to hold the frame tube at a bad angle and slam a clamp closed onto it because of the gradual but still quick and easy process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4693" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T22:42:24.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18744" CreationDate="2013-12-22T23:34:21.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be overkill, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find the center of your stem and mark it near (or across) the clamp&#xA;opening with the edge of a piece of masking tape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find the easiest to measure location on your drop bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is usually a point-to-point area that is flat and that you can easily lay a rigid ruler of some sort across.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be sure your rule is aligned parallel or at true perpendicular 90 degrees.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use masking tape to secure a ruler (meter/yard stick) such that you can determine a precise midpoint measurement at the center.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tie a length of string to this midpoint, and hang a weight at the end of the string.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place the drop bar, evenly, onto the edge of a &lt;em&gt;leveled&lt;/em&gt; table or bench.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotate the drop bar until the &quot;plumb bob&quot; you have created comes in contact with the center point of the stem clamp area of the handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark with this location with a maker or pen in a location that you will be able to see near the opening of the stem clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternatively, you could use pieces of masking tape on either side of the handlebar center, spaced a bit wider than your stem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install and center by aligning your various markings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, most modern bars have some visible demarcations on either side of the clamp area that makes eyeballing and/or measuring to the left and right of the stem pretty easy, without all this silliness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4693" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T23:34:21.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18738" CreationDate="2013-12-22T23:57:08.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I'd say there are structural reasons for those lines being roughly parallel and it is not arbitrary. (Though the usefulness of my answer depends a bit on my interpretation of your phrase &quot;nearly so.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the similar angles of the tubes you mention has most to do with the strength of triangles and the design of the classic and ubiquitous &quot;diamond&quot; bike frame design which utilizes those triangles such that they accommodate the wheel size that is currently popular in a structurally sound configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diamond frame also has some economy of materials - aiming to draw straight lines from point to point, creating those triangles efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is novelty and utility in other designs (step-through frames, folding bikes) but there are trade-offs and considerations that prevents the geometry choices from being arbitrary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4693" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T23:57:08.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18733" CreationDate="2013-12-23T00:12:14.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can practice making the bunny hop more of a fluid movement. Imagine a jump without a bike over something quite tall:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compress and leap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tuck at the apex of the jump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extend back down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feet land and absorb the landing with legs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being rigid, stiff or having bad timing with any of that will cause harsher landings with or without a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trials riders dropping from large heights extend the rear wheel and have that land first with their legs absorbing the landing with the front wheel landing a bit later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to refine your technique with smaller jumps will help by focusing on the sequence of things to make you and your bike act like a big spring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;compress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front wheel up a bit earlier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;followed fluidly by back wheel - tucked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extend back wheel down first&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;compressing legs and letting down the front wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work a bit on smaller bunny hops - maybe up and down a curb - until you can start to feel yourself landing with a bit less force or until you get a sense that you are anticipating the landing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was easier for me to yank and jump higher, but it took a while for me to learn how to jump in such a way that I was landing more gracefully and not thrashing my bike, body and wrists. The finesse and feel takes longer but is worth it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything happens in such a short period of time it's a little tough but you'll start to feel what works and what doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4693" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T00:12:14.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18741" CreationDate="2013-12-23T15:38:39.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on design, try ensuring all bolts are tightened evenly (so if the top two are done up all the way and the bottom two are not, undo them all and redo them evenly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T15:38:39.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18708" CreationDate="2013-12-23T16:22:56.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out there are two six13 models: Pro and Team. The Pro has just the carbon down tube (&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20070222100221/http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/06/CUSA/model-6PC1D.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://web.archive.org/web/20070222100221/http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/06/CUSA/model-6PC1D.html&lt;/a&gt;). The team has both (&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20070222100517/http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/06/CUSA/model-6TC1D.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://web.archive.org/web/20070222100517/http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/06/CUSA/model-6TC1D.html&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the helpful comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8816" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T16:22:56.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10367" CreationDate="2013-12-23T16:23:05.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doesn't this become a chicken &amp;amp; egg thing? As 20 inch wheels accelerate faster than a large wheel but larger wheels maintain their momentum longer, over a given road distance with climbs, turns &amp;amp; descents the advantages should cancel each other out. Of course if top speed is your goal then in my opinion the larger wheel diameter will be faster but at the cost of poorer handling through the turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8857" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T16:23:05.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18750" CreationDate="2013-12-23T16:37:53.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll only benefit from better bibs, insofar as they fit as they should. Given that you seem content with your current set, start with the same size when making a new purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the differences...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by checking the stitching all the way around on the new ones that you're interested in and compare it to those that you already know. Quite a bit of the new school stuff really has really improved stitching, or even eliminated it altogether, by moving seams around and flattening things out to mitigate chafing potential (nipples, inner thighs, top of your shoulder, chamois edges). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rubber, or rubber-like, sticky gel that is inside the bottom of the shorts that will be at the bottom of your thigh, just above your knee, will keep your shorts from riding up. The effectiveness and durability of this gel is important because nice shorts that creep up into a wrinkled mess at the top of your leg can wear a hole in your shorts, or your skin. Some shorts have dots or segmented lines of this discreet help while the most effective ones have a solid band that is not woven into the stitching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newer, higher-cost, bibs might even have little pockets on your thighs for making food super easy to access while you maintain your riding position. Similarly, there might even be a strategically placed headphone cable pass-through sewn in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most significant difference, however, is likely the chamois, or the pad that you'll be relying on for those long rides. Turn each pair that you like inside-out to get the best look and then feel for the differences between the brands and the models. The higher quality padding tends to be more dense while also being more comfortable against your skin. It is likely perforated (lines, slivers, or small sections of slightly less material) to properly fold at the very top of your inner thigh where your seat can rub quite a bit. The padding can consist of multiple densities to accommodate the different pressures that you exert on your seat. Your &quot;sit-bones&quot;, or the two bones that ALL of us, regardless or sex, weight, riding style, or skill, expose when we sit down and lean forward to hold on to the handlebars will hopefully line up well with the strongest part of the chamois. There may be an unbelievably discreet layer of gel within the pad that can really help out. Those with the gooey, thick gel will have you sliding around on your saddle and add bulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good bibs are a must. Everyone has a budget, so find the models that are within yours and get some that are nice and tight since they'll stretch out a little over a couple of years. Always hang them up inside out so the chamois can breathe and wash them with a light amount of soap. Don't allow them to host any bacteria or gross out whomever is on the bike behind you! Quality bibs will easily last a couple of years of daily use if you care for them well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8858" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T16:37:53.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2013-12-24T03:55:46.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A more specific suggestion: use &lt;strong&gt;3M Diamond Tape&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xno9Zru8W-g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see impressive demonstration&lt;/a&gt;). It is really bright. Fun trivia: the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute tried to make it a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/reflect.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;standard&lt;/a&gt; for bike helmets, but none of 3Ms competitors could make a material so reflective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best reflective material is fixed in your bike, so you will never forget it. Use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reflectors in your pedals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mudguards with reflective strip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replace every broken standard reflector you can think about &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a helmet with a vibrant color and a reflective decal, if it doesn't have, put some reflective tape. I don't understand why almost all helmets are black or gray. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tires with a reflective sidewall (see comment below about tire durability).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spoke reflectors are also an excellent add-on. They are cheap and probably nothing would make you visible from the side.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For every component, try to by the reflective version!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also don't forget the active blinking lights and all the other good answers of this question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5639" LastEditorUserId="5639" LastEditDate="2018-04-09T14:54:41.427" LastActivityDate="2018-04-09T14:54:41.427" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10367" CreationDate="2013-12-24T19:04:56.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rotating weight does not slow you down. It has a flywheel effect, that is, for a given weight, the bigger the wheel, the stronger the tendency to keep rotating at its current speed. If the current speed is 0, that means you need to work harder to overcome it (ie, acceleration is harder). It doesn't mean the wheel is always going to be slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out by others, smaller wheels ride relatively poorly over bumps (which saps a lot of energy). One of the very few makers of small-wheel road bikes, Alex Moulton, uses suspension to compensate. Suspension weighs more than bigger wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller wheels might have other added losses as well. I can speculate that the way the rubber in the tire deflects when it rolls onto the ground has higher hysteresis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2152" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T19:04:56.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="296" CreationDate="2013-12-24T21:16:04.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One more option for total night visibility:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HsSwB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Light Trails – Fully LED’ed]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/embed/DTC3zpVz0e0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/embed/DTC3zpVz0e0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a driver I've found passive/reflexive strips totally useless in the dangerous situations on the road. Unfortunately it's not working if cyclist out of the car beams. It makes him/her completely dark and invisible in contrast to the objects highlighted by car front lights. Especially reflexive strips danger because cyclist usually have no idea if he/her visible or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this video very interesting as example of using active lighting. It shows not only the presence of the some unknown source of red light blinking but the actual size and contour of the cyclist and his bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastEditorUserId="5932" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T21:53:31.363" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T21:53:31.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18768" CreationDate="2013-12-25T04:52:07.750" Score="8" ViewCount="14815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I few years ago I got into cycling again to help keep fit. I still had my mountain bike from when I did some easy trail riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mainly riding on the road now and I was wondering if I can change the crankset or cassette might give me a little more speed. A couple of months into the warm weather and I top out the gears even on a slight downgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's one very hilly ride I do and the toughest hill I'll sometimes go as low as the second or third lowest gear in the beginning of the season until I get used to riding again. I only ride when it's warm out. If anyone's in the NYC/NJ area it's the hill by the Englewood Cliffs boat basin in PIP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1998&amp;amp;Brand=Gary%20Fisher&amp;amp;Model=Gitche%20Gumee&amp;amp;Type=bike#.UrpbUd-ldqN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gary Fisher Gitche Gumme&lt;/a&gt; (specs in link I think the same year) which has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano Altus, 24/34/42 teeth crankset &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7-speed, 11 - 28 teeth cassette. (Actually cassette might be 8 spd 11-30)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano Altus top-swing, top-pull front derailleur &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano BB-CT91E, 116mm spindle bottom bracket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a year or so I might get a road bike but hoping I can get a little more life out of this one. I saw the Shimano FC-M131 48/38/28T 175mm which I like because I'd prefer longer cranks and also the FC-M311 48/38/28% 170mm which both seem like reasonable upgrades to make to a bike this old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea if these will fit the bottom bracket I currently have (which seems fine) or if I'll need a new one. Or would I be better off changing the cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not looking to win any races or set any mileage records just don't want to keep hitting the top gear and not having any resistance while pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know enough bike parts to know if the 2 cranksets I mentioned are easy to swap on my bike or not and would appreciate input from someone who knows more or recommendations on other cranksets that would fit better. The 2 currently are going for 30USD and I don't want to put more than 50-60 into this old bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't changed anything on the bike. I have been working on my cadence and that seemed to be the best approach. With my increased cadence I'm rarely topping out the gears on level roads. Keeping the tires at the upper range of pressure helped too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8869" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T05:25:38.633" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T05:25:38.633" Title="Replace crankset or cassette for better road performance on an MTB?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18767" CreationDate="2013-12-25T06:51:13.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you already have an 11 tooth smallest cog you're not going to be able to swap that for a smaller on. Well, you can get a 10T cassette but I don't recommend it, they're designed for small wheel bikes where the faster wear on that cog is just part of the deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swapping to a road triple crankset&lt;/strong&gt; should be do-able, and with any luck your front derailleur will work with the new one. A cheapish 30-39-50 is about $60 on ebay or amazon, so probably a bit over $US100 fitted if you go to a bike shop. But since you'll need extra chain to wrap around the bigger chainrings, best budget for a new chain and rear cassette (normally those get replaced together. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5043/if-i-replace-chainset-and-chain-should-i-replace-back-cassette-as-well/5045#5045&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14625/new-chain-causing-skipping-on-cassette-will-this-work-itself-out-or-is-it-unsa/14626#14626&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for why) which will probably be another $100 or so. Call it $250, but ask for a quote because this is a pretty standard swap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're unlucky you might need a different length bottom bracket ($50-ish), or a new front derailleur (plus gear cable, $100-ish). Those are things the bike shop probably won't know until they start fitting parts to your bike, so the only way you'll get a certain quote up front is if they decide to replace them regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will give you noticeably higher gears across the board, but obviously you lose the low gears (you'll effectively lose your smallest chainring and gain a much bigger one at the other end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Or fit a slightly larger MTB triple&lt;/strong&gt;. That will give you less gain in range but is more likely to work with your current derailleur and bottom bracket. You can easily get 28/38/48 sets, and the difference in the top gear between 48T and 50T is small. But that's the problem - you're going from 44 to 48 or 50T, and while either will be noticeable, it's not as much as you might think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is in how easy it is to go even bigger. On a road triple getting a 52/54T chainring is easy, but with an MTB crankset those chainrings get pricey if you can find them at all. We have a local manufacturer who CNC cuts chainrings, so we can get anything we like. I expect people like that are on the web as well, but you'd have to look (and try to buy local since you're fairly likely to want to swap them when they don't work on your bike because they're too big).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A completely different approach&lt;/strong&gt; would be to fit fat slick tyres. Or even fat knobbly ones. If you're riding for fitness, the extra drag (and very slightly higher gearing) will be just what you want. Schwalbe make their &quot;fat frank&quot; tyres as big as your bike will take, or &quot;Big Apple&quot; out to 2.5&quot;. The big tyres will be noticeably harder to push along at the same speed. And remember, as the cops here keep telling us &quot;the faster you go, the bigger the mess&quot;. Going fast just because you can, rather than because you have somewhere to go, doesn't make a lot of sense. I commute ~20km each way on a nice comfortable upright commuter bike that will go 30kph if I push. So I get fitter faster for the same distance ridden. And when I'm lazy I pull out my drop bar racer and do the same ride in 3/4 of the time (33% faster average speed). But I'm more likely to crash on that bike, and if I do it'll hurt more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T06:51:13.113" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-12-25T07:11:09.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Learn tricks&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9338/3927&quot;&gt;a load&lt;/a&gt; of entertaining and useful tricks, that a person with a bike can learn. Ken might know none or all of them, but there is always still room for improvement. Ridding at a steady, slow pace, should be the perfect environment to learn a half meter high bunny-hop or a 2km wheelie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only downside is that Barbie could think of this as being arrogant and showing oneself off, so they should have this cleared beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T07:11:09.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18771" CreationDate="2013-12-25T16:26:57.510" Score="6" ViewCount="31490" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm taking the time during the holidays to overhaul my commuter bike. The whole drivetrain was full of old oil, road salt and grime so I decided to take the whole thing apart starting with the back wheel. Once I got it off, I ended up with half of the rear axle in my hand and a bunch of ball bearings on the floor (I found them all eventually). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has been in use for about 18 months, and there were no rust and plenty of lube inside the hub so I don't really think it's natural wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could have caused the axle to break? My theory is that they pulled the nuts too tight when they built the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, is this a &quot;user serviceable part&quot; or do I need to get it repaired/replace the wheel? Seems to me getting the ball bearings to stay in place while I insert the axle would be quite challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8835" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T15:03:39.310" Title="Broken rear axle. Why does it happen and is it worth trying to repair?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18770" CreationDate="2013-12-25T17:53:08.447" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of times the axle is broken when not accurately jumping with bike (the same is with obstacles on road like holes and speed bumps). Wheels with freewheel are more exposed to this because their bearings (i.e. the place where wheel touching the axle) far from the place where the bike touch the wheel, therefor it have more moment to brake the axle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To the question about worth repair. The only available repair of this - is to put a new axle, that means it will be like a new wheel (if you do not have other problems in your wheel). If you going to replace the axle, examine the bearings cup if it have any deformation. If it have, in most cases the wheel must be replaces. Examine also the cones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T17:53:08.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18750" CreationDate="2013-12-25T22:35:27.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same question a few years ago. The answer is I think subjective but I came to the conclusion that the same thing goes with clothing as with components. I reached that conclusion by the &quot;suck it and see&quot; approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I basically started off along the thought process that winter clothing was more important than summer clothing. By that I mean that you can get away with riding a $20 jersey from China in the middle of summer, and the benefits of a $150 Assos jersey would be less obvious. That's probably not the case, say, with a thermal vest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that basis I decided to try some of the more renowned brands with smaller/cheaper winter clothes. For example, gloves and socks. Sure, a pair of Assos gloves will set you back more than a pair of gloves from China, but in absolute terms they're still only a few tens of dollars. So still pretty much affordable, and in particular not $$$s down the drain if they turned out to be no better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was very impressed with the quality of these accessories, so much so that since then I have gradually built up a collection of more substantial clothing such as tights and jackets. This stuff is so expensive that it was, like, one garment per year at first. But in every case I have been impressed with the quality. The Assos 851 tights and jackets, for example, are absolutely superb as outer winter layers. Again, I started off with winter clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to my initial premise: having been impressed with winter clothing, last year I bought a couple of pieces of top-end summer clothing. Again I was impressed. In particular the chamois in the bibshorts made a lot of difference to the kit I had been wearing, in terms of comfort in the saddle. For an hour or two the difference is acceptable, but over 8-9 hours you would notice a difference I'm sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's basically how I came to my conclusion. But its also worth saying that you don't necessarily need to buy Assos to get quality goods. Personally I rate Etxeondo as every bit as good, if not better (in terms of quality) as Assos, but cheaper (unfortunately more difficult to get hold of). And you mention Castelli, I have one of their kits which is very comfortable. Also Agu, Santini, Nalini, Moa etc. (Conversely I wouldn't rate replica team kit unless I knew who the manufacturer was.) But a little research will yield results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have deliberately ignored the value for money aspect here since it is so subjective. Is a $150 jersey 10 times more comfortable than a $15 jersey? Who's to say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, longevity is also an issue here. A mate of mine has just replaced a 10-year-old Assos jacket, and even then only because he tore it. If this stuff is going to last that length of time, it doesn't seem quite so expensive an initial outlay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T10:18:09.357" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T10:18:09.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2013-12-26T01:53:44.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ken should ride his 60 km all-out ride, and then Barby can join him for relaxed 20 km warm-down ride together. &#xA;I think both will be happy.&#xA;Don't forget eat some fuels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T01:53:44.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18775" CreationDate="2013-12-26T07:16:02.167" Score="12" ViewCount="2061" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is tricky to start pedaling uphill, especially with some complicating factors out there. I want to learn the proper technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Saddle height&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any uphill, I put my saddle at &amp;quot;XC height&amp;quot;, that is, leg nearly straight when the pedal is in it's lowest point. &lt;strong&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;White scenario&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are spinning up a steep slope, suddenly the rear tire shoots a large stone out and you loose control. You either have to get off the saddle and put a leg down, or tilt the bike at 45 degrees and put a leg down. In both cases the bike comes to a complete stop. &lt;strong&gt;How do you re-attack the slope?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try standing on the pedals for more initial power, the back tire will spin out on the loosely-packed dirt and gravel. To sit on the saddle is awkward, as the slope is adding to the saddle's height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Black scenario&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are blazing down a 6 degree decline on an unknown trail, do a swithcback ... and are faced with a 500 meter barely rideable uphill. You try to switch gears, but do not succeed in time. Now you are at a totally wrong gear, some 10 meters up a hill, that you must ride up. &lt;strong&gt;What do you do?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What I do&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab the handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put one leg over the bike and step on the far pedal, move it in 2 a clock position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to press the side of my butt to the saddle nose in order to apply some pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gradually apply power to the pedal and slide back the saddle, praying that the rear tire does not spin out and to need to do the whole procedure again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black scenario: ride back down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-08-19T08:43:06.927" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T08:43:06.927" Title="How to start uphill?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18774" CreationDate="2013-12-26T09:31:46.883" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saddle height for MTB might need to be a bit lower... I'll skip being the expert on that though as I've heard all sorts of preferences...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your balance steps in greatly here, how slow can you ride or how long can you stay upright when stopped; how much front tire popping up during that climb can you handle.  That doesn't answer anything, but obviously it helps.  For some more tangible tips (adding to your list).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black scenario: yup, just too steep to start on.  It's a fact that we can ride steeper than we can start on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal at 2 o'clock: yes, as high as you can tolerate it.  Maybe even 1 o'clock, as you be a bit back on the bike (only so far back that there's still some weight on the front for steering).  The front tire may very well come up as you do this, don't worry and save the steering for when the wheel is actually touching if you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a place with some traction if you can.  Wet tree roots are not the place :)  In fact, note the next few good traction spots... and also the slippery ones. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't choose a gear too low, you won't get enough umph out of one stroke to stay up on, and it'll be harder to ease into the torque.  You want to be putting all your weight on it, and pulling with bars too... one gear higher (or two?) than what you might use had you not fallen off.  That will move you a bit farther on one stroke, but you'll have to push hard and be ready for the end of that first stroke (the dead spot is longer too!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you do that stroke, transition your weight forward. Forward weight is not what you want, but by transitioning forward you're pushing on the back tire.  Aim to be slightly forward when you end your stroke.  Imagine you're pulling the weight off the front wheel , and that action leaves you slightly forward at the end of the stroke.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Near the bottom of your stroke, when the torque is rolling off flick the bike forward with the handlebars to get you through that first dead spot, this will take a lot of shoulder action.  (I've also seen guys do a quick 90° back pedal into that 2 o'clock position again, rather than fumble through the dead spot;).  If your trail is ridden with tree roots and slippery spots you can also use the quick back pedal to align your dead spot with that tree root, and flick over it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After a few strokes and some speed you might be able to coast for one pedal and shift back into a lower gear, and you can call it a successful start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you really want to improve your chances of starting, take a quick 1min breather; take a drink and a wiz.  You'll need to be ready for putting in the sprinting effort required to get started again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8809" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T09:31:46.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18774" CreationDate="2013-12-26T16:30:10.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with what @Michael has stated a technique I use is to find a rock, tree root or other obstruction to keep the rear tire from sliding downhill. With the front brake applied start to pedal. When you have both feet off the ground and on the pedals release the front brake and start to pedal smoothly. A stroke that is too quick will re3sult in the rear tire beginning to spin and result in you being stopped again. It is a technique you can practice on the road or less technical incline. The key to making it work is a smooth yet powerful consistent pedal stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T16:30:10.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3092" CreationDate="2013-12-27T03:50:25.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;TRP make &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1207&amp;amp;catid=206&amp;amp;subcat=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;road hydraulic brakes&lt;/a&gt; at a reasonable price, I'm thinking about a pair of these, with bar-end shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T03:50:25.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18770" CreationDate="2013-12-27T04:20:56.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Misaligned dropouts could be a cause.  That along with a heavy rider and/or a heavily loaded touring bike.  The last two caused me to break an axle 30 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8874" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T05:31:52.660" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T05:31:52.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3092" CreationDate="2013-12-27T14:20:14.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are a bit hard to find, but if you look, you can find 25.4 clamp which can mount mtb components (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fabrikcycles.ch/fabrik-black-bullhorn-handlebar.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fabrikcycles.ch/fabrik-black-bullhorn-handlebar.html&lt;/a&gt;) and some 31.8 clamp bars like the On-One Bingo (I don't know if this is still made, but it existed at one point). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the simplest way to get some bullhorn advantages while running mtb components is to start with a mtb flat/riser bar and add some bar ends (not bar end shifters, but something like the Ergon GP5 without the grips) - this gives you a bit more spacing options for placing the shifters+brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also now cable actuated hydraulic disc brakes (like the TRP Hy/Rd) which may be worth looking at (though obviously, replacing mechanical disc brakes (which are quite good these days) lets things like interrupter levers and what not work but that doesn't solve your problem). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T14:20:14.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-27T17:30:21.450" Score="3" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a SunTour XCR coil fork or any similar. Service manuals suggest &quot;full service&quot; every 30 hours of riding time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take that to mean removing the boots and re-lubing the stanchions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this includes the removal of the grips, in order to remove the hydraulic front brake lever. I am worried that the grips are being worn out by this process, causing them to turn freely and thus be very inconvinient for rideing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, how often should I service the fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T10:39:15.643" Title="How often to sevice suspension forks" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18786" CreationDate="2013-12-27T17:34:21.047" Score="3" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;Top-notch mountain trekking shoes are advertised as having Vibram soles. They are supposed to be durable and have superior traction on wet stones, mud etcsetra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what we want from na mtb tire, right? Then why no vibram tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T19:17:23.397" Title="Why no tires made of Vibram?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18784" CreationDate="2013-12-27T19:08:03.970" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vibram is simply a brand name for rubber soles made by Vibram S.p.A. of Italy. The actual composition of the rubber and the lug design used differs across their product line, with specialized compounds for hiking, industrial use, and for their &quot;Five Fingers&quot; barefoot running shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They began as a manufacturer for hiking shoes and were one of the first to make them with rubber soles, which helped them become a well-known brand in that market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturers of MTB tires are continually experimenting with new rubber compounds and balancing durability, weight, and traction. I'd expect that Vibram S.p.A. doesn't see much opportunity in becoming a bicycle tire manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T19:17:23.397" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T19:17:23.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18788" CreationDate="2013-12-27T23:17:25.313" Score="0" ViewCount="703" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a daily city bike i want to combine some older Shimano Components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to combine a Shimano XT V-Brake Lever (BL-M739) with a Shimano 105 SLR Front brake or are there any things i have to pay attention to? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6072" LastEditorUserId="3844" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T03:50:18.553" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T03:50:18.553" Title="Combination of different Shimano braking components" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18787" CreationDate="2013-12-27T23:34:43.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;V-Brakes and calliper brakes operate with different lengths of cable being pulled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V-Brake levers pull a lot more cable and in this set up, your lever throw will be too sort to be usable and have very little stopping power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html#levers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon, as usual, has more.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/travel_agents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;adapters&lt;/a&gt; to go the other way, road levers with v-brakes, but I've never seen one go this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet would be to look for some flat bar levers for the calliper brakes you have. Almost any &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/road/flat_handlebar0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sold as a road lever&lt;/a&gt; should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T23:41:11.060" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T23:41:11.060" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18806" CreationDate="2013-12-27T23:36:53.790" Score="1" ViewCount="1123" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking of buying the Whyte t129s, but not sure what flat pedals would be most suited for the xc / trail riding I'll be using it for. I looked at Nukeproof Neutrons and DMR V8s - prefer the look of the Saints, but worried they might be more DH/FR-focused and heavy on the climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3670" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:37:54.240" Title="Are Shimano saint pedals suitable for trail / xc use?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;trails&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2013-12-28T07:16:47.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to Add to the already good suggestions,&#xA;If you bike at night,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weekly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check headlights/backlights and Replace batteries; especially if you have a older incandescent (ie Not LED) light  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7417" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T07:16:47.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25098" CreationDate="2013-12-28T08:15:47.057" Score="3" ViewCount="844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a mild spill today on my new bike, which put the (Tiagra) derailleur cage a little bit out of line. With some bending and eyeballing, I got the two jockey wheels lined up 'almost' perfectly parallel with the cassette, and shifting is okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is, when I shift down to about the 3rd largest gear and larger, the cage 'ticks' when pedaled about 240 degrees (not in the same spot, just after about that much pedalling). I watched the cage and what's happening is, the chain starts to drift to the right (outside) of the lower jockey, and then, for some reason, one end of a link rises up off the jockey, and the cage pulls back a little bit like it's trying to get in position for a shift. It doesn't go far, though, and by the time the bunched link gets off the lower jockey, it loosens up and the tension drops out of the cage, causing it to relax into position again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of this happens on smaller gears. What's going on here? Can I fix it without shelling out cash for a whole new derailleur (was basically new)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T01:13:55.230" Title="Derailleur twitching in low gears" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18796" CreationDate="2013-12-28T09:54:08.970" Score="0" ViewCount="1406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to buy a Wilier Triestina Izoard XP.&#xA;The dealer told me that the Izoard XP 2013 with Shimano 105 cost 3021$ and I would have sold discounted to 2060$. The same price of the Izoard XP 2014 with 105. I asked why the new model would cost the same amount of discounted old model and he told me that the fork of the 2013 better than the 2014. I don't understand from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.airevalleycycles.com/m1b95s6p7713/WILIER-Izoard-XP-105-%282014%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Izoard XP 2014 spec&lt;/a&gt; if it is better then Izoard XP 2013 see english 'Bike Specification' in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wigglesport.it/wilier-izoard-xp-105-2013/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;italian site&lt;/a&gt;. Is a matter of fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8881" LastEditorUserId="8881" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T09:02:43.817" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T08:18:49.710" Title="Differences between Izoard XP 2013 and Izoard XP 2014?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18791" CreationDate="2013-12-28T12:49:53.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you say the chain tension is now too high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be a screw that adjusts the tension of the tensioning spring. Sorry I can't tell you where it is: none of the images I can find show it. Check out these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com.au/search?q=tiagra+rear+derailleur+adjustment&amp;amp;safe=active&amp;amp;oq=tiagra+rear+derailleur+adjustment&amp;amp;gs_l=mobile-heirloom-serp.12...0.0.1.4152.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1ac..24.mobile-heirloom-serp..0.2.1030.d7N7PH6NUJU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sources&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before adjusting anything take note of the position of each screw, then find the one that you think adjusts the tension and turn it one whole turn and test the result. If it messes up something else, it's the wrong screw so turn it back again. If it changes the twitching and clicking it's the right screw, so adjust it until the it's as good as you can get it. Keep track of how many turns you make, in case you need to start again. If that happens try adjusting in smaller steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: see also the links in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18795/chain-overshoots-cog-when-shifting-from-low-to-high-gears/18797#18797&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T22:18:01.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9003" CreationDate="2013-12-28T17:24:34.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem I have encountered myself, the wire length of most digital speedo's is not long enough to reach and be actually useable, the range of wireless speedo's are not good enough either, considering that you are only an extra 2 foot away from the receiver seems a bit much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap wired speedo is your answer, replacing the wire with a longer one is the only cheap method which reliably works, you will need to use copper wire as it better at conducting electricial impulses compared to the cheap alloy use in the standard wires, test before installing to make sure your shed altered speedo actually works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Cheap speedo = £5) + (length of suitable copper wire = 50p) + (ten minutes worth of time) = problem solved&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8885" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T22:30:27.063" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T22:30:27.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18797" CreationDate="2013-12-28T19:37:20.693" Score="3" ViewCount="725" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi when shifting from low to high gears my chain is overshooting the cog and jumping into the next one. I tried turning the low limit screw outward to move the derailer in towards the low gears but it makes no difference so I think it must be the cable tension. With wear and tear I am guessing the cable has stretched so needs tightened at the barrel adjuster and not loosened? Thats my conslusion but maybe it is not that simple?! Any advice would be great, thanks. Dont want to mess with it too much before being sure incase it completely messes it up as I have done many times before :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decided to go with what I thought. Adjusted the rear barrell adjuster anti clockwise 4 clicks and the chain started overshooting in both directions (mainly at the low end). Undid the 4 clicks and the chain now overshoots in both directions at the low end yet hesistates to change when shifting from high to low (at the high end). Im summary gear adjustments are a dark art as I previously thought!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8887" LastEditorUserId="8887" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T19:53:27.387" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T20:49:26.553" Title="Chain overshoots cog when shifting from low to high gears" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18792" CreationDate="2013-12-28T19:58:14.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Annual improvements in bikes tend to small and incremental. They have been doing this for over 100 years, unless someone comes out with something revolutionary, its hard to see how they can make a big difference. If it is revolutionary, it won't be the same model name (and it wont be 105). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, a grand in the wallet makes the 2013 a better bike. In a year, the 2014 will be a grand cheaper and in two years the same price on the second hand market as the 2013. If I wanted to spend $3000, I would buy the 2013 model of a $4500 bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only you can decide if small incremental improvements are worth the money to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T22:29:10.590" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T22:29:10.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18795" CreationDate="2013-12-28T20:49:26.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following links will show you how to adjust a derailleur: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that cables and derailleurs do need replacing from time to time and they do need occasional adjustment, but try to follow one of the derailleur adjustment systems suggested in the prior links (assuming the derailleur isn't bent or something - if it is, take it to your LBS to be straightened). Limit screws only keep the chain going too far into the spokes or out of the cassette, and do not affect shifts between the largest and smallest cogs (only the extreme points of chain movement), so those should not have been tweaked (probably). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that bending a derailleur is quite easy even with a small spill. Your LBS probably can adjust this in 5 minutes if you can't figure it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T20:49:26.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9003" CreationDate="2013-12-28T22:07:11.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably any wired cyclocomputer with cadence will have rear wheel sensor near crank. &#xA;I had Blackburn Delphi 3.0 Wired Bike Computer with Cadence. This was not the best cyclocomputer, but at least it's that you asking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T22:07:11.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18803" CreationDate="2013-12-28T23:59:36.743" Score="5" ViewCount="2410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in an area with lots of debris, dodgy paving, and rain, and to make matters worse, I fall down sometimes (I know!). The main things that get damaged, of course, are the brake handles and the rear derailleur. The brakes aren't so bad since the cinch just needs to be scooted back into place, typically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/eo9gCo6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rear derailleur is a bunch of fragile, lightweight dangly bits&lt;/a&gt; sticking further out than anything on the rear of the bike, and takes a special tool and time out to bend back into place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question is&lt;/strong&gt;, is it worth buying a derailleur guard like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00DPIPZ8G&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; for a road bike, or am I going to get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-849651.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;noob status, ruin the frame instead, or weigh down the wonderfully light frame&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that a replacement rear derailleur (Tiagra) would run me 30-50USD and the guard would cost 5-10USD, it seems to be more effective to get a guard. On the other hand, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/products/derailleur-guard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this bicycle co-op&lt;/a&gt; raises a serious concern about the axle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We have to admit that we are ambivalent about derailleur guards. While a derailleur guard is useful in theory, the fact that the wheel track nuts or QR secures it in place causes misgivings. A derailleur guard can't help but interrupt the interface between the frame and wheel nut. This means that the wheel nut will be less secure, and a less secure wheel is potentially more dangerous than a whacked rear derailleur. Having said that, derailleur guards are usually reserved for kids' bikes where the rider will probably not have the strength to loosen a wheel while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Don't tell me not to fall down so much; I'm a lost cause ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastEditorUserId="8884" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T07:46:55.377" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T14:58:56.633" Title="Derailleur guard on road bikes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2013-12-29T00:39:44.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the max speed I've ever reached is about 60mph.  However, since then I've had at least three experiences where I was riding downhill at a somewhat lower speed (30-40mph) and encountered a rough section of road and nearly lost control.  A bike that seems perfectly stable on smooth pavement can get surprisingly unstable at moderately high speed on rougher pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have a self-imposed speed limit of about 30mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly more skilled riders on well-tuned bikes may go faster with reasonable safety, but I doubt that any rider is particularly safe above 40mph or so, except on a closed track or at least on a hill the rider is familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T00:39:44.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18783" CreationDate="2013-12-29T09:50:28.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think 30 hours is probably conservative, it's too often and won't add much additional value. That would be about right for an air sprung fork with an oil damper, possibly even a coil with an oil damper, both in dusty conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fork service interval for each fork is dependent on the fork, the type of riding you're doing and cleaning you do after each ride. Servicing is done to ensure optimal performance, prevent accelerated wear and prevent failure. Generally servicing of forks includes a replacement of oil and seals, a thorough clean (to remove grit) and a lubrication. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suntour coil forks use a sealed unit for damping and the coil spring. This means there is actually very little servicing the can and should be done. Apart from the dust seals I don't think there are any seals inside the fork to replace, so pulling it apart would only be to clean out any grit that had got past the dust wipers/seals. Servicing would be pretty simple once the fork was apart clean the dust seals, degrease anything that had dirt contamination, re-grease and check the elastomers to make sure they aren't deteriorating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of removing the fork, if you have a repair stand you could remove the brake caliper and drop the lowers off. I imagine you have the XCR RLO and the remote is why you need to remove the grips, apart from lock on grips or split clamps there's no easy way sorry. I've always found grips give out pretty quick anyway and start sliding around so now stick only to lock ins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T09:50:28.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18799" CreationDate="2013-12-29T16:59:06.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I would be concerned about is that derailleur guard creates a lever for bending the rear triangle of the frame in a fall. A frame is much more expensive than a derailleur. Kids bikes with derailleur guards are generally heavy steel bikes and kids don't weigh that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes come with replaceable dropouts for exactly this reason. It's a sacrifice part to avoid damaging the more expensive frame. Road bikes aren't really designed to be crashed multiple times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really hard enough on a bike that this is an issue for you, I would seriously consider switching to an internally geared rear hub. The cheapest way to do that would likely be to buy a new bike. Plenty of nice commuter bikes out there now that will likely stand up to the abuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T16:59:06.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-29T20:01:22.207" Score="0" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love watching old races - they're especially great for long sessions on the trainer. However, I can find only a few stages/races on Youtube, and most of the videos are simply highlights. Where might I be able to purchase/download pro race footage (licitly)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8895" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T00:52:32.390" Title="Where can I purchase/download UCI Pro Tour/pro cycling race footage?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2013-12-30T21:47:10.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18804" CreationDate="2013-12-29T22:05:42.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are sites such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesufferfest.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Sufferfest&lt;/a&gt; who do videos designed for trainers. I suspect there will be a bunch of these sites, you've probably found some already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, some of the turbo manufacturers (I'm thinking particularly of Tacx since I have personal experience here) release DVDs which can be used in conjunction with your trainer. Tacx do two types - one is just a DVD that you watch while you pedal (and so is not restricted to Tacx trainers), the other is integrates with the Tacx software to give you a virtual reality experience (i.e. the speed at which you pedal governs the speed at which the video plays). But both are filmed in the first person, as if you're one of the riders, rather than being a commentary. See the Tacx site for more information - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tacx.com/en/products/films&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tacx.com/en/products/films&lt;/a&gt;. For the most part though these are courses rather than races, although there are some races and these are probably close to what you're looking for. But they work out very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly I know the Tour de France release videos every year, but as you say these are highlight videos rather than full-length races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't know of anyone offering exactly what you're asking for I'm afraid. Certainly the European races, the spring classics etc, I'm pretty sure that videos don't exist. I mean, you can find loads of clips on YouTube but these are bits and bobs recorded off tv, I don't think you can get an &quot;official&quot; 4 or 5 hour dvd. I stand to be corrected...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T00:52:32.390" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T00:52:32.390" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18789" CreationDate="2013-12-29T22:33:57.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the shortest way of answering this, yes, they will be suitable for trail/xc use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All flat pedals are relatively the same. They only differ in the amount of pins, contact area, weight and their thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want something on the thin side for trail use, as you'll be pedaling quite a bit more than if you were on a downhill bike. This will help to reduce the amount of pedal strikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight is probably the biggest difference between all of the flat pedals. It is totally up to you as to what you find acceptable. For everyday trail use, the Saints should be fine and they should last quite a long while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8655" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T22:33:57.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-30T02:14:22.723" Score="3" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only mountain bike pedal I've found that doesn't have spring recentering are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.frog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Speedplay Frog Pedals&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried Shimano SPD pedals and Crank Bros Eggbeaters/Candy and both have spring recentering in the angular float. It appears most pedals have a spring or other retention system that increases the tension as you twist your foot away from center until you've unclipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any pedals similar to Speedplay X/Zero and Frog for mountain biking that have free float through its full range of angular motion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1111" LastEditorUserId="1111" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T16:29:24.923" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T16:29:24.923" Title="Which clipless mountain bike pedals have free float (i.e. no spring recentering)?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-01-04T00:14:56.917" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18809" CreationDate="2013-12-30T02:32:46.713" Score="12" ViewCount="8178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several brake pads on my cantilever brakes that have several small metal shavings embedded in the pad.  Is this normal?  What should I do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T15:37:59.900" Title="Why are there metal shavings in my brake pads?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18808" CreationDate="2013-12-30T02:39:58.980" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normal to some extent - brake pads have to be made of soft material which wears down on the rims (and conversely, the rims wear down into the brake pads to some extent) in order to stop you. This means the pads pick up grime and bits of metal from the rims and road and stuff which embed into the pads and in turn wear down your rims / reduce braking efficiency. If they're eating large portions of metal, then you should probably switch the pads to ones made of different material (anecdotal evidence suggests the pads which come with most cheaper brakes belong in the trash). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start with a high quality pad (e.g. Koolstop Salmon pads), and making sure the rims are clean (use citrus degreaser/rubbing alcohol). Mavic and some others make special blocks for cleaning and (slightly) sanding your rims as well, which you can use (but definitely not necessary). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do get metal or other contaminants in your pads though, you can pick it out with tweezers and buff the pads with some fine sandpaper (remove the grit afterwards!). Make sure the pads have sufficient material leftover after this - if the metal backing comes through, your rims are going to take damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure your brakes are properly adjusted: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service&lt;/a&gt; is a good link to look at as well (Specifically see the &quot;Pad Wear&quot; section). If your brakes are rubbing on the brake tracks, you'll pick up more cruft (and wear out your rims), for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check your rim wear indicators (if you have them - they're reasonably common on modern rims) to make sure that you're not too worn on the rims as well (this is typically a little groove which should be there on the rims, but can appear in other forms such as something that appears when the rim is too worn out). If you don't have them, you can try a procedure like &lt;a href=&quot;http://archive.ctc.org.uk/resources/Magazine/20011163.pdf&quot;&gt;http://archive.ctc.org.uk/resources/Magazine/20011163.pdf&lt;/a&gt;. If the rims get too worn, they break and you end up hurt (probably).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T14:37:56.470" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T14:37:56.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-30T03:30:32.133" Score="2" ViewCount="1860" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a road-bike (gearless) and its height was even not reaching to my waist and I was becoming very tired even after 10 min. of cycling (in city). I remember I have read somewhere that angle of legs position affect the amount of effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does height matter? If yes than how to get the best bike (in terms of height)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2795" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T04:39:19.847" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T05:37:23.527" Title="Does height of bicycle affect the energy we put to ride?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18810" CreationDate="2013-12-30T03:38:51.870" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Height does matter (in fact, there are multiple &quot;heights&quot; which you can find out about in the long answer's links), but there are a ton of other factors (e.g. top tube length which is probably more important). The bike's geometry is what determines how well it works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer: What you need is a bike fit (which can be done at most bike shops). Proper bike fitting makes your power delivery good and avoids potential injuries / pain. The handlebars, brake hoods, stem length, saddle height, saddle width, possibly cranks (though unlikely unless you're on the extreme side of heights),etc.  will be adjusted based on your proportions (primarily your inseam as well as your reach) provided the bike can be fit to you. This is highly dependent as well on your riding style (racers don't ride the same way people going on cross country tours do, typically) and feel. Height and inseam are not sufficient (hence why they publish a ton of measurements per bike). I personally prefer a larger size than most people with my height (though I have longer arms + inseam than most people of my height)... See the links below for more details. The most common mistake people make is putting the seat too low (which correspondingly screws up everything else), but you really should start with a bike fit (or if this isn't possible due to financial constraints or something, surveying videos on youtube or something (but I will not link any, since this should be done with a LBS, and test rides)). As the KOPS link below shows, these systems aren't used as an exact science, so the experience of the fitter helps a lot in getting a good fit (the numbers plugged into formulas aren't everything), and it may take a few tries to get something that really works for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good look on the problems with fit and why its left to the pros at your LBS is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what you read, it may have been KOPS: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/kops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/kops.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple theories as to how you should setup your bike for &quot;best&quot; cycling. Once you get a fit, you'll end up tweaking it to better suit yourself and changing riding styles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting tired also depends on how fit you are, and how efficient you are in using your gears - if you start in top gear on a racing bike, chances are you're going to get tired really quickly if you're not pretty fit. It sounds like you have a single speed, which means you have to compromise on one gear for the whole range of riding you do (unless you fit something like a Surly Dingle), so you may need to pick a different gearing combo, though typically these are set with a decent gearing which isn't too hard to start and easy to cruise in (like a 42t/17t on the Surly Crosscheck SS). If you have a fixie, your legs are always moving, so in this case, you may want a flip flop hub which allows you to flip the wheel and let you freewheel a bit when you're tired. Having multiple speeds may help with tired-ness depending on the terrain (hills make you want multiple speeds). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting a bike fit reduces the bike setup part of riding and makes your physical fitness the next problem (and possibly gearing). You may find that the particular bike you have cannot be tweaked to work with your riding needs! (For example, a lot of racing bikes don't work as tourers/commuters). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T05:00:18.470" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T05:00:18.470" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17956" CreationDate="2013-12-30T09:15:38.207" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your brakes are leaking fluid, it's getting on the pads. Simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8897" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T09:15:38.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18844" CreationDate="2013-12-30T09:30:11.050" Score="0" ViewCount="1775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of Shimano FH-2200 front and rear hubs lying around which I no longer use and I would like to save money by using them for a wheel build but am unsure whether they would be up to the rigors of Cyclocross racing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T15:02:05.930" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T14:12:03.000" Title="Are shimano FH-2200 hubs strong enough to use in a tubular wheel for CX racing?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18814" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-30T09:31:44.373" Score="5" ViewCount="3366" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BACKGROUND NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The bike is a 1992 Univega MTB that originally came with 6-speed SIS with a triple chainring. I removed the SIS shifter when it broke, and went with a friction shifter.  The bike is used as an all-purpose commuter/errands bike; I was having no problems with the &quot;old-tech&quot; setup other than a worn chain, and I have no plans to change the friction shifter on an old bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OLD SETUP&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;6-speed Sunrace Freewheel (straight-cut, 14-28); 6-speed chain (don't know the type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NEW SETUP&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;7-speed DNP Epoch &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebikestop.com/dnp_epoch_freewheel_7spd_11_32_nickel_plated-FW4618.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;freewheel&lt;/a&gt; (beveled or ramped cut cogs, 11,13,15,18,21,24,32); KMC Z50 chain (1/2&quot; x 3/32&quot;, 6-7 speed). The KMC chain box says &quot;Indexed.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BOTH SETUPS USE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Long-cage rear derailleur (Shimano Exage), triple chainring (28,38,48; Shimano Alivio, 18-24 months), and friction shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;THE REASON for the change:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;chain wear and skipping, wanting two faster cogs and a lower hill-climber cog. The new chain was adjusted for length using the chain adjustment equation on Parktools web site.  After installing the chain, I doubled-checked and eliminated any chain kinking.  The rear derailleur is adjusted and shifting well with the new setup. When I re-installed the rear wheel, I placed a thin washer between the right-side axle nut and the dropout for chain clearance on the 11-cog but it might not be necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;THE PROBLEM:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;The new chain is intermittently skipping in a &quot;skip-forward&quot; or half-shift&quot; motion; less so when riding casually, more so when riding under load; less so on the 48-tooth chainring, appears to be more so on the smaller chain rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's wrong with my new setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8898" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T15:06:39.357" LastActivityDate="2018-08-15T16:05:18.440" Title="Chain skipping on new freewheel and chain setup - What went wrong?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-30T15:41:10.927" Score="5" ViewCount="3953" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any changes I could do to my cycle so that I can make it move backwards?Just a question out of eagerness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8795" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T19:51:57.627" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T15:44:46.733" Title="Can I pedal my bicycle backwards to move it backwards?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13365" CreationDate="2013-12-30T17:07:40.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually have done this with a flying pigeon.  I put 700c rims on the bike and it worked fine. Im not sure its worth you investing the money based on one response, but I have definitely had good luck with it.  It needs to be a single speed or an internal hub (that is what I did)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8900" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T17:07:40.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18814" CreationDate="2013-12-30T17:19:36.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;sounds like your chainrings are worn.  Look at the rings and see if they are &quot;shark fin&quot; shaped rather than symmetrical - a google image search for &quot;worn out chainring&quot; will show examples including some really, really worn out rings.  The old worn out chain likely wore out the rings as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had exactly what you're describing on a couple bikes and it was remedied with a new chainring up front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8901" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T17:19:36.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18819" CreationDate="2013-12-30T19:45:35.633" Score="0" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been serious about riding for the last year however have taken a while to save up. I want a bike that I can rely on. I ride on average 7/8 hours a session.&#xA;I'm 20 year old male and 182cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8903" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T20:13:06.010" Title="Road Bike £600 or under" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-12-30T21:46:33.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18818" CreationDate="2013-12-30T20:13:06.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last seasons models usually go for a big discount so its worth trying to find one, are you prepared to wait if needed. Consider the used bike market if you know what you are looking at, or have a mate that can help out. Even if you don't have the skills, a LBS might have used bikes. Best bike for buck for someone who is not familiar with bikes is to buy used from the LBS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any bike in that price bracket will be reliable. They get reliable as soon as you leave the department stores and go to a bike shop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those hours in the saddle, far more important that any bits of paper describing the will tell you is the bike fit. Most important is go to a real bike shop, not a department store. I would recommend a cheaper bike and paying for a proper bike fitting session, decent shoes and pedals, and good bike shorts/bibs. No point spending all your money on the bike and having a poor fit and uncomfortable cloths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T20:13:06.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18822" CreationDate="2013-12-31T10:47:45.667" Score="0" ViewCount="6443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel a little painful during the first few weeks of commute with bicycle. Just wondering that does it make my butt tighter and sexier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8906" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T15:38:28.727" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T05:15:59.727" Title="Does cycling tighten your butt?" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18820" CreationDate="2013-12-31T11:29:28.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I feel a little painful...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it pains because of seating on an improper seat then no, it will not tighten it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it pains due to miles of cycling together with standing pedaling uphill, then probably yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T11:29:28.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18820" CreationDate="2013-12-31T14:53:07.247" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since cycling is primarily based on leg strength, which is derived from all parts of the leg (including the glutes or butt muscles), then yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a great graphic that shows some of the muscles used during a typical pedal stroke:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GPZZL.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Muscle groups of the pedal stroke&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And basic anatomy tells us that the muscular system works together so it's virtually impossible to train one muscle exclusively without using others at least minimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you want to specifically target your butt, I'd recommend some supplementary exercises like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/29582-pelvic-bridging-exercise/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pelvic tilts/bridges&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://exrx.net/WeightExercises/Quadriceps/DBWalkingLunge.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;walking lunges&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T17:38:19.703" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T17:38:19.703" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18815" CreationDate="2013-12-31T14:59:01.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To sum up all the comment answers, which provide you with a wealth of options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70O8XZyycWk&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The backwards bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retro-direct&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Retro-direct gearing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.frankb.us/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Tri Via gearing system&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some parts of these look rather easy to fabricate such as the idler arms or connecting two forks together. The rear hub is going to be the most difficult part since you have to build two sets of engagement together and fit it in the space of a regular hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T14:59:01.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20769" CreationDate="2013-12-31T15:52:33.030" Score="3" ViewCount="9712" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are disc brakes better, more durable etc. than the more traditional Cantilever / V type brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been considering choosing a new bike with disc brakes, but I have seen mixed reviews on whether or not they are really better or are just something that looks cool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8908" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T08:21:19.207" Title="Disc Brakes VS cantilever / V brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2014-03-19T22:26:35.840" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18827" CreationDate="2013-12-31T16:25:04.460" Score="9" ViewCount="10676" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep my bicycle on a trainer in a 'cool' room during the winter months.   The tires don't seem to maintain pressure after days of non use.   Does this matter, and should I be checking/filling the tires often?   What pressure would be recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1693" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T15:29:19.300" Title="Does tire pressure matter when the bicycle is in the trainer?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18826" CreationDate="2013-12-31T17:13:17.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like car tires, bike tires can lose some pressure at colder temps (see: &lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081218093516AAN3lGt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Why do tires &quot;lose&quot; air during the winter?&lt;/a&gt;) although I'd be surprised if your 'cool' room is cold enough for this to be a significant factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely, you are just seeing the normal slow loss of air pressure that bike tires experience all the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your trainer is a relatively &quot;controlled&quot; environment compared to a road, tire pressure is of less importance than it is on the road.  If your tire is under-inflated you really don't need to worry about a pinch flat or the tire coming off the rim as you corner.  Conversely, if it's a little over-inflated, you won't suffer bone jarring bumps or benefit from lower rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At worst, I think you might experience some accelerated tire wear.  Of course, my trainer seems to eat tires no matter what pressure I run my tires at...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has a nice write-up about &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire Width and Pressure&lt;/a&gt; which you might find interesting even though it doesn't specifically discuss tire pressure when using a trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;:  I overlooked the &lt;em&gt;What pressure would be recommended?&lt;/em&gt; part of the original question...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, the answer to this depends on what tires you are using.  My current tires have a maximum pressure of 120psi and I run them at around 100-110psi.  In the summer I check my tires and re-inflate before every ride due to the various reasons I've listed above.  In the winter, I only check the tires occasionally as there is minimal drawback to riding a trainer with under-inflated tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3021" LastEditorUserId="3021" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T17:31:23.393" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T17:31:23.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18826" CreationDate="2013-12-31T17:38:35.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend the normal tire pressure, because lower pressure cause unneeded vibrations, noise, tire slips over the trainer, tire excessive wear, and also different resistance if you using speedometer as a powermeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T17:38:35.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18826" CreationDate="2013-12-31T21:38:44.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the other answers talk about using your current tires for use on a trainer, I'll take a bit of a different route. Tire manufacturers make special tires for specifically trainer use, such as the Continental Hometrainer (plenty of other manufacturers make similar ones, but the pricing locally for this one isn't bad - they typically run 25-35 dollars each if you shop around). These prevent you from wearing out your road tires prematurely (especially since only your rear tire wears on a trainer), are quieter and are more durable on trainers than most road tires (but are NOT suitable for off trainer use). You can run them up to the pressures suggested by the manufacturer on the sidewall or how much your rim can bear or possibly a bit more (though these are not necessarily optimal - play with them) - since there are no bumps or terrain on a trainer, you don't need to worry about overly bouncy tires or pinch flats or other hazards. See the link from Sheldon Brown in the other answers. I'd recommend buying a tire designed for trainer use, putting it on the rear, running it for the winter months, then swap it out for the usual tire when spring comes along. This should reduce your tire expenses over a few seasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T22:53:21.393" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T22:53:21.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16419" CreationDate="2013-12-31T21:54:36.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.kalkhoffusa.com/Kalkhoff-ProConnect-p/ka09pros.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kalkhoff Pro Connect Sport 250&lt;/a&gt;. I purchased mine to reduce my commute time. My commute is 12.5 miles one way with some pretty good hills in the mix. On my regular bike it takes an hour to an hour 15 but on the Kalkhoff it only takes 40 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike is a Pedelec in that you must pedal for it to provide any assistance (although it does have a mode where it can power itself at slow speeds when pushing up a steep hill - typically used to push beside stairs in Europe where they have dedicated rails for that purpose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can typically maintain an average of 20 mph over the commute with speeds on flat sections around 25 mph. With a racing style bike you may be able to get more speed as the wind resistance is the real limiting factor at this speed, although with this bike I will pedal out at 25-30 mph. There are other models that have a three speed hub shifter that would allow more speed without pedaling out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like they have limited supply right now, but I'd encourage you calling them directly as they have been very good answering my questions and following up on service issues. Plus, you can order the bike and return it within a week at no charge if it isn't right for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8910" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T21:54:36.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18815" CreationDate="2014-01-01T02:47:00.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a nice article by Kent Peterson on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://kentsbike.blogspot.com/2008/12/retro-direction-perfection.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;retro-direct bicycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T02:47:00.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18834" CreationDate="2014-01-01T04:12:58.983" Score="1" ViewCount="2844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2004 Giant VT frame with a zero stack / semi-integrated headset.  It currently takes a straight steerer threadless fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any type of headset I can put on so I can fit a tapered fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3982" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T05:44:29.587" Title="How can I fit a tapered fork to a 1 1/8 semi-integrated/zero stack head tube?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18833" CreationDate="2014-01-01T05:30:52.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are products like the Cane Creek 40.EC44/40.Bottom Assembly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/new-headset-allows-use-of-tapered-steerers-in-some-1-18in-head-tubes-25275/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(Here's a press article on it and its kin, which should read first)&lt;/a&gt; which may work (I know its been installed successfully on some other Giant bikes, such as the Anthem, but not on your particular bike). Theres a lift of the front end by 5-10 mm, so its not a free lunch (aside from the cost of the unit and ancillaries). You should go to your LBS and test this actually works with this or a similar unit and the desired fork though, before you drop the money on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-01T05:44:29.587" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T05:44:29.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-01T09:51:36.980" Score="3" ViewCount="1856" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a ride today I ran over a water run off too fast and have caused an outward bulging dent in both sides of my rim. The bulge is hardly noticeable to see or touch but I &quot;think&quot; I can feel it when riding. This rim is definitely on the way out as I've dinged it a couple of times now but want to ride it until I can get a new one put in the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've successfully removed inward dents but want to know if there is a trick to removing outward ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find a flat spot in the rim so hoping bending back to straight May work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="3021" LastEditDate="2014-01-03T16:04:45.700" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T00:08:33.200" Title="Way to fix outward dent in rim?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18835" CreationDate="2014-01-01T17:36:36.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend using vice grips and a tree to do this, in that this should an emergency repair only. Every time you bend a piece of metal you weaken it, and these types of dents also stretch the metal making it impossible to get back to the perfect shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8597" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T17:36:36.797" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-02T13:22:38.420" Score="2" ViewCount="643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have access to two mountain bikes, a lighter one (lapierre) and a Giant. &#xA;The maintenance I do to both is really similar, just tires and oiling the chain every few weeks. I always though that the lapierre was harder to ride but the other day I did an actual test. Before I set off I checked the tires and oiled the chain and did the same distance, at the same time and  similar weather and the lapierre was much more work and did a slower top speed and average speed, can anyone suggest any reasons for this and how can I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took a bunch of pictures of both bikes first the slower Lapierre then the two bikes and then the giant here&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/G1MST#7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/G1MST#7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyre pressure is for both bikes on the 30s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; tyre size is 26&quot; (not sure) tho, as you can probably see from the pictures, they are the same size&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: very similar tires (if anything the giant has more grip), suspension exists and set to as stiff as possible on both (the test was performed on road), &#xA;As for different gearing I have no idea how to check &#xA;rider position feels very similar&#xA;Will take pics today and these tests are done on roads (ie while commuting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My measurement was done using strava but also I felt it was harder to ride and thought I might have been slower &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8902" LastEditorUserId="8902" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T14:50:33.617" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T16:09:16.357" Title="Lighter bike slower than a heavier bike, possible reasons?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17301" CreationDate="2014-01-02T15:24:38.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two holes are probably rack mounts (two silver bolts in the frame right below the arrow for the noodle): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jvkF0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vbrake&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they're the posts to which the v-brake is actually mounted, chances are  a rim brake won't be able to be lined up with a 700c rim anyway (however, if you get a 700c disc wheel, you may able to line up the rotor with the disc). This isn't worth the expense. You'll also probably lose some comfort as well. It is also unlikely a 700c wheel will even fit in the frame anyway, so the swap probably isn't even possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rim brakes are generally lighter than discs, but you require rim brake compatible rims (some rims are disc only), which may be an additional expense. If you do want to cut some weight for this and you have the mounting posts, you can do this with some cheap v brakes (e.g. Avid Single Digit 5's) and your existing levers if your brakes are mechanical discs or new levers if your brakes are hydraulic. You may also like the disc brakes better if your rims are prone to messes (such as road grime in rain, snow, mud, etc.). You will also need new cables as well probably. This is probably more effort than its worth, so I'd stick with discs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably you have a 3x7 (3 chainrings on the front, and a 7 speed set in the back (probably freewheel in the back)). Swapping in a double or single in the front wont save you much, and you probably cant fit a bigger front chainring anyway like a road double due to chain+derailleur issues. You might be able to get a smaller cog freewheel /cassette (there is an important difference) for the back, but this isn't necessarily useful (see next point). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing with a rigid fork can cut out weight, but even keeping the fork locked out should be fine for commuting on the road. If you want to go faster, chances are you should increase your cadence and use gears more efficiently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slick tires are the way to go, but you already have those. Keeping your bike in good condition on slicks is probably the best thing to do along with a rigid fork swap if you have the cash. You can combine this with a v-brake swap to the front at little additional cost (the v-brake and cabling) if you have mechanical discs and the front rim is rim brake compatible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want something faster/lighter, you may want to look at purchasing a hybrid or road bike instead, such as the Trek 7.2 FX. But gains for this sort of stuff should probably come from increasing your fitness and technique. A 11kg hardtail (i.e. no rear suspension) frame is heavy, but should be fine for commuting if you're reasonably in shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T15:24:38.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18815" CreationDate="2014-01-02T19:03:15.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A British gentleman by the name of Drew Buck actually rode the 2007 Paris-Brest-Paris (a mere 770 miles (approx.) in 90 hours) on a 2-speed 1913 Hirondelle, with a low gear engaged by pedalling backwards in the Retro-Direct style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links to articles on the ride are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nrtoone.com/home/?p=404&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, which has a diagram explaining how the gearing works, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-somerset-25238228&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, which is a link to a BBC article on the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3511" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T19:03:15.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18815" CreationDate="2014-01-02T21:37:17.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can watch it here on 0:35 and on 1:05 &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/sDONk7t3Elw?start=35&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T21:37:17.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17301" CreationDate="2014-01-03T00:59:35.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry too much about weight. Yes you can buy lighter components but sometimes they're less durable. You'll eventually get fit enough that the weight will be less of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the gearing, on my MTB I fitted larger chainrings on the front, 46t, 36t, and 26t (the number of teeth on the large, medium, and small rings respectively). Unfortunately chainrings can be a little pricey and it may work out the same price to just get a whole new crankset. For example the Shimano M590 triple chainset comes with external bottom bracket, hollow crank, and 48.36.26t chainrings, so it saves some weight as well as increased higher gear ratios. If you have a square-taper bottom bracket currently, then the external (or alternatively ISIS or Octalink bottom brackets) will be stiffer and more responsive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience commuting (on and off over the past year or so) by MTB, the wide gear range of an MTB rear cassette means I can never quite find the right gear and frequently find myself shifting down on the rear and up on the front (or vice-versa). So I have bought a road-cassette with greatly reduced number of teeth on the low gears (ie 26t-11t as opposed to 34t-11t) meaning I am more likely to find the right gear (at least I hope that to be the case as I am yet to fit it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lighter components, especially for the drivetrain, either cost more or are less durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7593" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T00:59:35.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18813" CreationDate="2014-01-03T14:12:03.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I would suspect they are just fine. These are relatively inexpensive when new, and require little maintenance if broken down and lubed once in a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What really matters in cyclocross is the number of spoke holes and flange geometry of the hub. I just did a quick google and found FH-2200 hubs have beefy flanges and 36 spoke holes. I was not able to find any other configuration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've more often than not found wheel failures at the spoke junctions (hub, rim) or the rim itself. I've very rarely seen a hub fail that has been properly maintained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my answer is this: they should be fine. Lace them up in a 3x pattern with a decent rim and enjoy some cyclocross!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T14:12:03.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18815" CreationDate="2014-01-03T15:44:46.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to actually answer the question, even though it's not as interesting as some of the comments: yes, you can probably convert your bike to a fixed gear, and then if you can learn to steer backwards and not fall over, you will be able to pedal it backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several questions about fixed gear conversions, here's a starting point: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16551/planning-on-building-a-fixed-gear-single-speed-from-an-old-schwinn-world-what-n&quot;&gt;Planning on building a fixed-gear/single-speed from an old Schwinn World. What new parts will I need?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T15:44:46.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9663" CreationDate="2014-01-03T21:07:45.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i can only imagine during the manufacturing process that hot rubber is injected into a mold like device and then spun till cool enough to remove, these little hair like things are formed during the centrifuge process through little holes that serve as a way for air to escape to prevent imperfections in the tyre (tire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8935" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T21:07:45.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18808" CreationDate="2014-01-03T21:53:21.900" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely, but remotely possible that some brake pads might even contain some metal, which is the case with car brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8936" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T21:53:21.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17031" CreationDate="2014-01-04T05:12:53.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bought my used 1992 Univega MTB, it had the exact same crank: &quot;Exage 300 lx crank 48,38,28 Crankset. It is also Biopace.&quot;  I replaced it with a Shimano Alivio 28-38-48.  How's that?  I even like the Alivio better than the Biopace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8898" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T05:12:53.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18810" CreationDate="2014-01-04T05:37:23.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yea, baby, fit and geometry make all the difference on a bike.  Without being too scientific here, the height of the saddle must be such that your leg is &lt;em&gt;ALMOST but not quite&lt;/em&gt; fully extended when your pedal is at bottom of the stroke; there should be a very minor flex in the knee when your pedal is at bottom stroke and your ankle should be in a mid-flex position. Neither your knee or your ankle should be fully extended when your pedal hits bottom stroke. Any difference from that criterion, and your riding is inefficient. If you try to ride serious with a poor-fitting bike, all kinds of aches, pains, and tiredness will take over and destroy the fun of the ride. Interesting too, how you phrased the title of your question: &quot;Does the height of the bicycle affect &lt;em&gt;the energy we put into the ride&lt;/em&gt;?&quot; You can have a perfectly fit bicycle, and your riding will be somewhat frustrated unless you wear cycling shoes. When you pedal in street shoes, those shoes are flexing up, down, and all sorts of micro-contortions on every downstroke, and lots of muscle energy is expended uselessly by the flexing of the street shoes. Result? Quicker exhaustion, lots of sweat, and fewer miles of riding. Cycling shoes have stiff, non-flexible soles that don't flex. A non-flexing shoe means your foot becomes &quot;one&quot; with the pedal, and much more muscle effort is transferred to the pedal! There is no energy lost in the flexing of the shoe. The result is a stronger pedal stroke, a bike that is pushed farther with the same muscle effort, more miles of riding, and more fun in riding. You don't have to buy cycling shoes with cleats, however. You can buy non-cleated cycling shoes--such as I have, and use a strapless pedal (non-cleated pedal). These are pedals with a toe-in stop that allows you to push down harder on the down-stroke AND PULL UP ON THE OTHER PEDAL ON THE UPSTROKE. Result is much more propulsion per stroke without cleats. Yea, baby, fit, geometry, and cycling shoes really matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8898" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T05:37:23.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-04T06:34:46.500" Score="2" ViewCount="2169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a LeMond Big Sky SLT &amp;amp; an Opus Triton. Every bikepedia-esque site I went on said they had incompatible bottom brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I actually read the brackets today the LeMond has a BSA. The Opus only states: BC1.37x24.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BSA has the same measurements: 1.37x24 (according to wikipedia.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean the crank from one will fit in the other or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read a lot about all the crank differences and compatibility issues etc but frankly I can't identify what I have to know if they're different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8939" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T22:57:57.833" Title="Are these compatible bottom brackets?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18853" CreationDate="2014-01-04T19:50:05.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matching BB is one of the hardest jobs as a paper exercise compared to eyeballing them side by side.  As suggest in @Batman comment, length and offset are both critical, yet most sellers only specify length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as matching Cranks go, there are a  number of systems - square taper was (an probably still is) the most common - there is some confusion over the compatibility between a couple of different standards, but it does not seem to be a problem in reality. Spline cranks come in a couple of different flavors, which are incompatible. Have a read of Sheldons webpage on the subject. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T19:50:05.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-04T23:23:23.110" Score="3" ViewCount="2575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to add a layer over my bike tights for warmth. Leg or knee warmers seem like a nice versatile option. I am just wondering if there is any issue with wearing these over tights as opposed to over bare skin with shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8084" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T06:59:02.013" Title="Any issues with wearing leg warmers over tights?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18855" CreationDate="2014-01-04T23:35:38.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing that I could expect to be different may be that the rubber like band that is included in their ends to prevent them from slipping might work not so well on your tights than on skin. But this surely will depend on the materials involved, so just give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else should not change, besides the fact, that you have two layers of fabric, i.e. more isolation, less heat transport, a bit less breatheability... but that is the reason why you want to wear two layers, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T23:35:38.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18855" CreationDate="2014-01-04T23:48:03.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They might feel too tight, possibly giving the slightest resistance against pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7593" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T23:48:03.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18814" CreationDate="2014-01-05T00:24:30.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two thoughts, maybe with the washer the wheel is ever so slightly out of dish, meaning your chain-line may not be as straight as you would like it.  The fix for this would be lose the washer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The other may be a problem with your friction shifter holding it's spot over a longer chain.  Was your chain the correct length before?  It sounds like it likely is now but if it was to long before less tension would have less pull on the shifter.  Is the shifter tight? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain ring items is surely worth looking at, see if worn out or bent.  I haven't answered anything on this before so I may not be able to get back to you as I may never find this website again :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8943" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T00:24:30.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18861" CreationDate="2014-01-05T03:50:34.407" Score="2" ViewCount="6821" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got an old bike that I restored some time ago, and the original tubes literately burst on me today (I knew I should have replaced them long ago, they are probably 10 years old) and now I have some questions on replacing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the available tubes, I see most of them have presta valves. The originals and my current replacements are  Schrader. I don't have much preference on valve, I just want to know if I should limit my selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real question is, I really never paid any attention to the holes drilled in the rims. Do they have different diameters for each type? Would a larger Schrader hole damage a presta valve tube? Or are the rims pretty much universal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is useful, the rims i'm buying new tubes for are: an old MTB Araya RM-20 and an unmarked original from a cheap fuji-4.0 700 bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-01-05T04:52:02.530" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T18:56:38.670" Title="Does valve stem diameter matter for my rims?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18855" CreationDate="2014-01-05T03:57:05.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do this. It works well enough. Warmers do tend to slip a bit over the knees, but honestly they do anyway. Go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T03:57:05.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18859" CreationDate="2014-01-05T04:04:27.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the holes are different sizes. 6mm and 8mm, from memory. The hole size matters if you have skinny rims as 8mm out of a 20mm rim is a lot compared to 8mm out of a 40mm rim. But you already have valve holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory putting a presta valve in a Schrader-size hole matters, in practice it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base of the valve is where you'll see any effect from having a presta valve in an oversize hole, and in theory the base of the valve will get cut up by the edge of the rim. You might also get dust or water inside the rim if you have a V or box rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice it doesn't seem to matter. I do this fairly often because almost all my rims are drilled for schrader but I'll fit presta tubes rather than ride on flat tyres). I've seen marking around the base of the valve when I've pulled the tube out, and occasionally it's bulged up 2-3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the locking ring/nut that comes with Schwalbe presta valves it's got a smooth face under the knurled section that's exactly the right size for a schrader hole, suggesting that they expect people to use them that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7GDRt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;presta valve&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L9bIx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ring I'm talking about has an arrow in this pic, and @jimrings found the pic on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of other types of adapters. You can see the most common ones in the pic below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2hn8I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Presta-Schrader rim hole adapters&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones to the right and left push through the rim from the inside and hold the valve centered in the rim. The rubber one on the right actually attaches to the rim. The metal one on the left is fitted over the valve before inserting it into the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-01-05T18:56:38.670" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T18:56:38.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-05T06:35:26.997" Score="7" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading alot about the electronic shifters that are out now, specifically the ones on TREK bikes. I was wondering if they are worth the price, and more importantly how do they perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8945" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2014-01-05T09:07:48.560" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T14:43:46.863" Title="Electronic shifters" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17343" CreationDate="2014-01-05T08:04:56.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm late to the party but, if you only use 4 gears or so, figure out with Sheldon's calculator what gear inches you are using.  Chainring teeth x rear sprocket (with wheel size) to figure out what gear inches you are using.  Does the Pashly-style 7 speed cover that range?  Bueno!  Rule of thumb is larger chainring goes faster (pedal speed being equal), but large chainrings, 50, 50+ can be harder on your knees.  What is the chainring size that you use now?  A midsize ring (in the 40's) can make pedaling easier and easly increase speed by inreasing pedal revolutions.  I am running a 46x16 on 27.25 wheels on my single speed,  resulting in 77.6 gear inches and 13.9 mph at 60rpm, to 20.8mph should I achieve 90rpm. 77.6 is a large gear where I live with hills, but where I plan on riding, mostly flat, should be Ok.  (not my primary ride)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8946" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T08:04:56.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-05T08:08:55.157" Score="4" ViewCount="10179" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a starting fixie rider, what is there a 'best' Gear inch to start with?  Moderatley hilly area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8946" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T17:04:41.723" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T19:09:09.537" Title="'Best' Gear inch to start with on a fixed gear? Moderatley hilly area" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18546" CreationDate="2014-01-05T11:31:13.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to exchange my rear aero wheel for a standard non aero wheel after a broken spoke once. With a 60mm aero wheel front and a non aero wheel rear, the bike felt really unstable. It was rideable, but I really had to be concentrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8948" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T11:31:13.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="89" CreationDate="2014-01-05T12:30:43.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends greatly on the type of bicycle: a Dutch type commuter bike requires very little maintenance. Simply checking tire pressure weekly/monthly and maybe lubricating the chain once a year will keep it in good conditions for years (with minimal repairs needed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that very few sensitive parts are exposed to weather and outside conditions: completely covering chaincase, internal hub gear, hub dynamo, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My feeling is that it does help a lot to store the bike inside or at least under a roof to better protect it from rusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7161" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T12:30:43.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18864" CreationDate="2014-01-05T14:08:31.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd start with a 70 gear inch ratio for a while and adjust from there. Then change your rear cog by one tooth at a time till you figure out what works for you. I would stay within 65 to 75 gear inches for most on-road riding. You could get away with 75+ gear inches if you lived In a flat area or were just a beast of a masher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with fixed gears in hilly areas is that you'll have to spin very quickly when going downhill.  Keep that chain tight and your momentum will help on the climbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to ride slightly higher (about 74 gear inches) since I live in a hilly area and want to be safer when spinning on decents.  It may take a few weeks to get used to riding fixed, but your legs will adjust quickly, so don't be too hasty to switch things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, consider the skid patches with your setup. You don't want to have a setup with only 2 skid patches and wear down your tires too quickly.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.Bikecalc.com&quot;&gt;http://www.Bikecalc.com&lt;/a&gt; has a good gear inch and skid patch calculator to help figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T14:08:31.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18862" CreationDate="2014-01-05T15:26:26.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine got them on his bike that he rides here in Chicago. I got to try it one day when we were riding and I did not like the way they preformed at all. I've been a TREK guy with Shimano gears all my life but these did not have the same smooth changing that anything I had used from Shimano featured. They were very choppy and were slow to respond when shifting. I guess I am a bit of a purist in that I like to use the manual shifting systems, but if an electric were to be made better it may be a good investment. Right now, from personal experience, I'd say that they are not worth the price. If they came down considerably in price and were more dependable, they may be a good idea, but for now investing in a high quality group of mechanicals in probably a better idea for a serious biker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7489" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T15:26:26.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18875" CreationDate="2014-01-05T21:35:42.590" Score="9" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a vintage bike to commute with (I wanted a heavy one for the exercise) and I was hoping for a flat so I would have an excuse to spend money on a puncture resistant street tire to replace the knobby tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After more than a year of hoping for a flat, I got one. While inspecting it I noticed I had two small pieces of glass in the knobs, but the flat turned out to be on the valve neck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when I took the old tube out, it had what I guess is a Kevlar layer protecting it. I'm not really sure what it is; it is just a brown layer on top of the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rnk9w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftblm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is &quot;glued&quot; to the tube thanks to the amount of time they were together, but it peels off easily. Also, you can see the flat where the valve meets the tube on last pic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a puncture protection, I must say it was doing a very good job. And I will probably buy regular cheap slick tires and reuse that and be happy with not wasting expensive material every time the rubber wears out. In fact I will continue wondering why tire manufacturers even insert that layer on the tires at all! Unless someone with more knowledge here has an argument against that layer and in favor of modern puncture resistant tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T14:40:37.080" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T14:40:37.080" Title="Is this a puncture protection thing?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18872" CreationDate="2014-01-05T21:58:46.880" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently those are &quot;Stop Flat Liners&quot;... and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/497029-Stop-Flats-2-amp-other-tire-liners&quot;&gt;consensus at bikeforums&lt;/a&gt; is that they work well (as i inadvertently learned)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think i will keep them and get cheap sleeks. may also get a pair for the other bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T21:58:46.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18872" CreationDate="2014-01-05T23:15:15.347" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a tire liner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html&lt;/a&gt; is good reading on the topic of liners / flats in general - in particular, he generally doesn't recommend them (and I don't either). He also claims that if they're improperly installed, they can increase the frequency of flats. If you are prone to flats and you've eliminated improper installation, maintenance and riding (pinching the tube, improper inflation, bad rim tape, going down curbs the wrong way, etc.) - by this, I mean the environment forces the flats (such as certain types of thorns, etc.), you may want to invest in a tire with additional puncture protection (like the Bontrager hard-case tires) which eliminates the improper installation issue or thornproof tubes (these are thicker tubes, so thorns only go in partway, and you can pluck them out of the tires), but these all add unnecessary weight (and a bit of expense, and often some more noise) for most people (i.e. people who live outside areas such road hazards exist in reasonable frequency). Otherwise, just get a normal tire and tube and maintain it properly (install rim tape properly, inflate properly). And you should always have a patch kit on hand anyway (and/or a way to get home).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also products like Slime - a sealant that goes in your tube and is supposed to patch up punctures. Some mountain bikers swear by it, I think it just causes a mess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T23:15:15.347" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18872" CreationDate="2014-01-05T23:38:32.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your options to prevent/reduce flats are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solid rubber tires.  Heavy and very hard riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Belted tires.  These contain a Kevlar belt under the tread.  Pretty good puncture resistance, without seriously affecting flexibility and rolling resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires with a slab of hard rubber under the tread (tires that advertise &quot;puncture resistant&quot; without claiming a belt).  Supposedly good puncture resistance but heavier and not as flexible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra-thick &quot;thorn resistant&quot; tubes.  The outside diameter of the tube is about 4x thicker than the rest, providing pretty good puncture resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Slime&quot;.  A liquid rubber-like compound injected into the tube (or present in a tube as purchased) which claims to seal small leaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire liners.  In addition to the purchased ones it's not unheard of people to fashion them out of an old tire, cut down and with the tread ground off, or some other (vaguely) suitable material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No doubt something else I missed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, many claim that tubeless tires are more puncture-resistant, but this may be because they're often loaded with a Slime-like sealant.  (I've no experience with tubeless bike tires.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck with the Kevlar-belted tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T23:38:32.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17778" CreationDate="2014-01-06T02:25:54.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having converted two 70-something Motobecans, take to your best local shop to figure out what fits your bottom bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mikes asked &lt;em&gt;Is the issue the French bottom bracket?&lt;/em&gt; Or reverse threads? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a last resort, Velo Orange has a bracket that will work. DO get rid go the cottered cranks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8946" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T00:19:55.157" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:19:55.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-06T04:28:44.043" Score="2" ViewCount="932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a bike to ride mainly around town and hope to get up to doing longer rides (maybe Cycle Oregon).  A local bike shop is selling a Giant TCX W cyclocross for $950 (reg price $1,900).  I test rode it and like it.  Since I'm not doing cyclocross, is this the wrong bike for me?  I generally don't like the real racing road bikes as I don't like to bend over that much. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8955" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T17:56:45.927" Title="Is a Giant TCX W wrong for me if I want to use it for around town and occasional long rides?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2014-01-06T05:32:38.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you carry a good pump, there is no need for CO2 cartridges. Get the longest frame pump that will fit, and you will get 110psi in 35 - 45 strokes. How much longer does that take than using a CO2 cartridge? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I don't believe that the weight of the pump is significant, unless you are racing. I don't remember exactly, but I think that my Zefal XL pump cost less than $30, and it still works flawlessly after 6+ years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8956" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T08:52:16.573" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T08:52:16.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3591" CreationDate="2014-01-06T06:48:44.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a finely-tuned road machine, running at 50+ mph is readily accessible and &quot;feels&quot; just fine on a smooth road. Probably would feel solid at twice that speed. But it isn't really a question of how fast the bike can go. It's a question of how you're going to feel when you eventually encounter that inevitable, out-of-the-blue, un-anticipated stop one day. Bang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently had the pleasure of going over the handlebars at 16 mph on a downhill single track. Result was a Bell helmet in 8 fragments after landing on my head, a fractured vertebrae, collarbone dislocation, and broken finger.  Takes surprisingly little speed to do serious damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've enjoyed my share of road descents pushing 50 mph.  But make no mistake about it: at these speeds you're almost certainly risking death if something goes terribly wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8957" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T06:48:44.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-06T09:18:03.750" Score="2" ViewCount="14706" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my touring bike, about a year ago, I upgraded my tires from the low-end stock ones to better lighter ones.&#xA;The weight gain was 205g per tire so 410g on the whole bike, plus a few grams on the tubes that were smaller ergo lighter since I reduced my section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This made a &lt;strong&gt;huge&lt;/strong&gt; difference in the reactivity, and the overall velocity of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for my racing bike, I intend to replace the &lt;strong&gt;wheels&lt;/strong&gt; from the heavy stock ones to higher end ones. In addition to features such as stiffness and so, the new wheelset will be 410g lighter and I will gain a few more grams with a cassette change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So weight-wise, the gain is very similar, will the feel be similar as last year? since this weight gain is also done on &lt;strong&gt;moving weight&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6214" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T11:59:06.870" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T00:11:32.120" Title="Weight of wheels vs. weight of tyres" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18862" CreationDate="2014-01-06T10:31:59.937" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;20,000km's in 2 years on Ultegra Di2.  It performs very well. Shifts are smooth, crisp, quick and effortless.  I have a few other road bikes running various mechanical shifters, but have preferred the electronic shifters during the past two years.  No need for adjustment due to no more cable stretch.  The front derailleur auto trims and follows the rear derailleur as you change gears.  If you change the rear wheel or cassette, you can adjust or trim the rear derailleur on the fly, whilst riding.  It has limp home mode, which will get you home if you forget to charge the battery - the FD won't change, but you can still get many more changes from the RD.  When your hands are cold, wet or tired after a long ride, you become extremely grateful that you have electronic shifters.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8959" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T10:31:59.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18882" CreationDate="2014-01-06T14:50:13.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your ability level this might be noticeable or it might not. Pro racers are often able to tell when as little as 100g is added somewhere on the bike (or geometry changes by .5 degrees for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With switching wheels the weight loss is felt in a couple different ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overall weight&lt;/strong&gt; On a bike that only weighs, let's say, 28 lbs (12,700g) a loss of .9 lbs (410g) is about 3% savings. If your bike weighed 100lbs it'd only be about 1%, so the impact of general weight savings is dependent on light the bike is already.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rotational weight&lt;/strong&gt; Heavier wheels are harder to spin up and slow down faster. Reducing that weight will reduce these effects. However, this comes mostly from the weight at the edge of the wheel (tires, tubes, rims), so if the weight savings are coming from a lighter hub, it will be less noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, these all depend on the specifics of the wheel, the bike, and the rider and how all three interact. If your looking at dropping whole pounds by switching equipment I'd do it, but if it's just to save 50g, then it's probably not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T14:50:13.810" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18882" CreationDate="2014-01-06T15:46:03.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This word is key to understanding what weight loss mostly helps with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;reactivity&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think what you really getting at is that the bike accelerates faster. Humans are very low power engines so any change in weight can produce noticeable changes in acceleration. But they don't produce that much change in overall speed. You get to&#xA;your top speed faster, but that's about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &quot;just riding around&quot; this may or may not be important. For racing and riding in a group where you are making constant accelerations to stay with the pack, it can make a huge difference. This why racers obsess about weight for climbing/racing bikes, but focus more on aerodynamics for TT bikes. The primary limiting factor on total overall speed is aerodynamics, not bike weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some advantage to reducing &quot;rotational&quot; weight, but it's not that big if you crunch the numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T15:46:03.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18837" CreationDate="2014-01-06T17:40:32.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're measuring via Strava, keep in mind there are a lot of factors that can play into your time.  Unless you're averaging many rides over time on each of those bikes, thing like wind, clothing, what you ate, etc, can all play in to the time you post to Strava.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8962" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T17:40:32.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-06T17:46:41.200" Score="6" ViewCount="1390" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much of lower bike pain over longer rides due to bike fit or body positioning versus core strength?  I have spent many years &quot;fixing&quot; my fit but have never had a professional fitting.  I have also ebbed and flowed on my core strength over years and can't pin down it's role in &quot;saving&quot; my lower back pain over time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8962" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T15:24:24.747" Title="Lower back pain cause?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18887" CreationDate="2014-01-06T17:55:01.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your mileage is going to vary, and everyone is going to have different advice based on what worked for them. A professional fitting may be a very good idea. Also consider going to a doctor that specializes in this sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T17:55:01.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18887" CreationDate="2014-01-06T18:11:46.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This typically means that your drop is too significant or your reach is too far. Try moving your stem up once spacer and replacing the stem with one that is 10 mm shorter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other answers have noted, it would also be a good idea to get a professional bike fit since you've had chronic lower back pain for a number of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T18:11:46.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18894" CreationDate="2014-01-06T21:03:23.533" Score="24" ViewCount="1078" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I live, bicycles are widely accepted in traffic; motorists are on balance considerate and careful around us. But on an almost daily basis, I run into motorists who are &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; &quot;polite&quot; at intersections. They stop and try to wave me through when I have no right to be in the intersection and, in some cases, when it would actually be dangerous for me to enter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two examples come up most frequently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At a four-way side street intersection, where I am at a stop sign and the motorist has no sign or signal of any kind. Usually the only vehicles visible are myself and the car. I usually try to wave them through instead, and give them a friendly &quot;thank you, anyways&quot; wave and a smile.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crossing a busy three-lane one-way road, where I have a stop sign and am not moving, feet on the ground. Motorists in the lane closest to me like to stop -- with traffic now stopping behind them and streaming along beside -- and try to wave me past. Here I often pretend to not be paying attention, but usually have to resort to a vigorous &quot;keep on going&quot; wave, with the same &quot;thanks&quot; as they eventually give up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run into other configurations as well,&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; but the core issue remains the same: it's far easier, and often much safer, for them to just continue and allow me to move through the intersection after them.&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt; When I'm stopped and the car is moving, it will be out of my way a lot faster than I can get moving and past. I really do appreciate their consideration, but in the broader picture, I'd prefer they just continue in their right of way as if I were another motorist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring the stopped car has only mixed results. Are there any other tactics I can employ to indicate that I'm perfectly happy waiting, and keep these well-intentioned people &lt;strong&gt;from stopping in the first place&lt;/strong&gt;, moving on their way and out of mine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;One that causes genuine confusion is dual-purpose marked crossings, where the same sign indicates the presence of bikes and pedestrians. The latter &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be yielded to here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;†&lt;/sup&gt;In some cases I think they're even committing traffic violations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3908" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T23:45:29.373" Title="Discouraging motorists from stopping at an intersection when they have the right-of-way" Tags="&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18890" CreationDate="2014-01-06T22:30:00.290" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not strictly a bicycling issue. Do-gooders who ignore the rules and want to give the right of way all the time are also irritating to other drivers. They are not necessarily safer drivers, because &quot;scared&quot; is not exactly the same thing as &quot;safe&quot;. There isn't anything you can do; just take cautious advantage of the right of way and keep going. The most aggravating of the lot are those who act as enablers aggressive drivers, like those who cut in to get ahead of dozens of cars in a traffic jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really appropriate to enter into anecdotes, but I'm compelled to give one anyway. Once (while driving, not cycling), I stopped at a stop sign in the middle of a residential neighborhood (properly, I might add; a full stop behind the painted line).  Another driver was going cross-wise, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; herself facing any stop sign and thus having the right of way. This driver stopped, motioning me to proceed. I shook my head and pointed at the stop sign to indicate that I'm simply following the rules and expect everyone to do the same. She simply refused to budge, so I turned off my engine and engaged the parking brake.  I cannot remember who first yielded (or should we say, &quot;unyielded&quot;, if you will), but I do remember that minutes passed. I remained calm and maintained an amused smile while she appeared to become angry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these do-gooders are, evidently, quite vehement about pushing their viewpoint that the rules of the road are not entirely satisfactory and should entirely be ignored in their entirety (and perhaps not even known at all) in favor of some inefficient ad-hoc social protocol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience as a driver with several hundred thousand km under my belt, you better just do what they want you to do, otherwise minutes will be wasted like in the above social experiment that I don't care to repeat. &lt;em&gt;However, make eye contact with a driver before jumping in front of their car, and do not waffle; if you're given the right away, take it swiftly.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastEditorUserId="5088" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T23:03:46.997" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T23:03:46.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18887" CreationDate="2014-01-06T23:16:00.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As other answers have said, bike fit is important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a huge factor is also cadence. Even with a well-fitting bike, if you push gears that are too big for your core strength you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; develop lower back discomfort and pain. Since you mention fluctuating core strength I suggest that concentrating on spinning at a higher cadence will help. Riding at a higher cadence always feels stange at first, but you'll get used to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you start &quot;bobbing&quot;, then concentrate on pedaling smoothly (ankling). Think of riding at a higher cadence like running a car at higher RPM. The higher the RPM the higher the power, but if you are riding at the same speed it also means lower force is going into each pedal stroke. And think how many steps per minute you would take if you were running. Not everybody would agree with me, but I say that 90 should be your slowest cadence (when you should change to a lower gear), with 100 as your average. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For practice, try this game. Ride with a friend, starting at, say 20 kph on the 34X17 gear. Now in the same gear find out how fast you can go. You will be surprised. Then try the next higher gear, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(parts of this answer come from &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18206/compact-crankset-how-to-use-and-criticality-of-cross-chaining/18223#18223&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; post of mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T11:11:03.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18890" CreationDate="2014-01-07T04:08:39.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two suggestions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stop further back from the intersection. This helps by not making you look to be in a hurry to cross, and that it will take you longer to take advantage of their &quot;help&quot;. It has the disadvantage that you can't see the traffic as well, and cars that stop closer to the cross road can block your view. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Choose a route that doesn't have such dangers. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the approach you're taking is good already though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T04:08:39.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7107" CreationDate="2014-01-07T04:28:01.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no definitive answer about the root causes of chain suck. Or, more precisely, the definitive answer is probably the one that says &quot;there is more than one contributing factor&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two obvious cases that come to mind are: 1) extremely worn chainring that &quot;hooks&quot; the chain, 2) new chain on an old chairing (even if the latter is not extremely worn). In the latter case the most load is transferred by the bottom teeth of the chainring greatly increasing friction at the bottom point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But unfortunately chain suck happens even with perfectly new chainrings and chains. You can find quite a few theories floating around the Net. It is clear that chain suck is caused by excessive &quot;friction&quot; between the chain and the larger chairing, which prevents the chain from detaching from the larger chainring at the final phases of shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what causes that excessive friction... There are just too many factors involved here. How clean the chainring is. How clean the chain is. How long the chainstays are (which affects the angle that the chain sweeps during the shift). How resistive your chain is to any lateral displacements. How sharp is the angle at which it bends during the shift. How well the plane of the chainring is aligned with the current cog. And so on and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can consider yourself lucky if in your case the chain gets stuck between the chainstay and the ring. In my case it doesn't. As it wraps around the chainring, it travels all the way around to the front derailleur and slams into the derailleur cage. The derailleur gets disfigured beyond recognition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastEditorUserId="2918" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T17:46:02.800" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T17:46:02.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20332" CreationDate="2014-01-07T09:13:46.740" Score="2" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did anyone tried using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yaktrax.com/product/walk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;yaktrax&lt;/a&gt; ice-traction device for shoes when using bicycle (with flat pedals)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that often very large risk of falling in icy conditions is when mounting dismounting, and yaktrax seems like it could be of help in such situations. Anyway I am concerned if yaktrax might tangle into the pins of the pedal and lock my feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T15:07:56.323" Title="Any issues with yaktrax and flat pedals" Tags="&lt;ice&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18882" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:13:54.360" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dropping wheel weight is the most significant place to gain performance. When upgrading my bicycles, I always purchase lighter/stronger wheels before upgrading any of the drivetrain components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this because it requires a substantially greater amount of force to overcome the mass spread through the crossection of your rim/tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the governing equation for an infinitely thin ring (incredible approximation here) moment of inertia is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;I = mr^2&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;code&gt;m&lt;/code&gt; is the mass of the ring and &lt;code&gt;r&lt;/code&gt; is the radius. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To compute the energy, it can be substituted into the energy equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;E = 1/2 m r^2 omega^2&lt;/code&gt; where &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;omega&lt;/code&gt; is the &lt;code&gt;d(theta)/d(t)&lt;/code&gt; term (angular velocity). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the mass of the wheel has a moment arm represented as the square of the radius, it has an exponential effect on the amount of energy required to change it's momentum, whereas static weight (frame/component weight) has a much less significant effect on the amount of force required to accelerate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, you will notice a big improvement in acceleration if you upgrade the wheels, same as your commuter bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:13:54.360" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18887" CreationDate="2014-01-07T18:26:47.373" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often experienced lower back pain during and after rides on my roadie. Stretching helped me significantly. Try regularly stretching the muscles below, above and around your hip / bum, perhaps using hip-focussed yoga poses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4178" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:26:47.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18837" CreationDate="2014-01-07T18:29:29.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it might be the tire tread, the lapierre tire seems to be knobbier in the section which contacts the road, while the giant has a fairly constant height section which is used when going straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8970" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:29:29.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17332" CreationDate="2014-01-07T18:36:55.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cartridge bearings in the freehub body were worn. Actually, only the one nearest the hub body was jammed. I've obtained replacements and all is well again. It was a relatively simple (though noisy) job to bash them out with an old screwdriver (remember to remove circlips first - a circlip tool came in handy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4178" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:36:55.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2014-01-07T18:37:00.027" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your visibility is KEY.  To be more visible use flashing front and rear lights even during the day; stand up on your pedals at intersections so that you appear larger; whenever possible ride in a group as the visibility of a large group is greater than even a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8971" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T22:07:04.087" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T22:07:04.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18789" CreationDate="2014-01-07T18:37:54.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think he is worried about the bearings being stickier than a trail specific pedal would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if he wants buttery smoothe pedals, downhill pedals are the wrong thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can handle losing a little energy/power to the bearings of a pedal, then the downhill pedals will be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8970" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:37:54.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18862" CreationDate="2014-01-08T00:47:54.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 10000 miles on my Di2's.  Never threw a chain, which used to happen on my DuraAce occasionally (through several generations).  Shifting very crisp.  Do you need them?  No, but they work very well and impress your friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T00:47:54.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18862" CreationDate="2014-01-08T14:43:46.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about Ultegra electronic gears last year. In the UK the price is around £1,300 with fitting at the right shop. Then I tried Dura-ace manual shifters and frankly, they were even better than electronic Ultegras. These were around £1,500. Therefore, for me, the real advantage is that Dura-ace were lighter, and better, so I know which one I would choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8170" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T14:43:46.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18890" CreationDate="2014-01-08T15:52:51.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be worth bringing up the problem with the local government. If you can see a way to rework the intersection to avoid those problems, and they are inexpensive (usually a bike-bridge is going to be way over budget), there is a good chance you can get something done about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen intersections in my town reworked to improve safety. I was not involved, but from what I understand the trail users (cyclists and pedestrians) and the road users were considered. I can attest that the situation was much improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the mean time, since explaining the situation rationally to every driver that makes this error (good-intentioned as it may be) is likely impractical, you may want to consider avoiding the situation in the first place if at all possible. We have all altered our bike routes to avoid dangerous bits, we just are used to the cars being too aggressive instead of too nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastEditorUserId="7724" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T16:12:46.267" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T16:12:46.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17793" CreationDate="2014-01-08T21:58:21.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not a Claud Butler or a BSA, as the headbadge is the wrong shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The name on the handlebars and use of Benelux and Iscaselle suggests Italy (and Sturmey was big in hub brakes everywhere, so may not be British-made).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8983" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T21:58:21.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18912" CreationDate="2014-01-08T23:00:03.953" Score="4" ViewCount="7300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a hard spill the other day on my mountain bike and snapped my left hand brake lever in to pieces. &#xA;The ones that snapped are stock alloy rubbish that came with a Specialized Hardrock 2010 Disc Brake model.   They are standard &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bowden Cable&lt;/a&gt; brake wires with the little barrel shaped bit at the end that fits to the brakes.  (Do they have a name?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having some trouble purchasing levers and there doesn't seem to be much information on it online or much information on the products I'm finding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To the point&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I need is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bowden Cable&lt;/a&gt; compatible brake levers but I have no idea how to search for them.  Sometimes descriptions will mention that they are for pneumatic, V-brakes, caliper or canti brakes but I've never seen anything saying that they would be compatible with my bike on any site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong? Or what should I be searching for here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8585" LastEditorUserId="8585" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T09:11:07.970" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T14:28:59.690" Title="Buying brake levers, how do I find the correct ones for my bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18911" CreationDate="2014-01-08T23:45:48.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it sounds like you have mechanical disc brakes (Avid BB5 or Tektro Novela not hydraulic) then any direct-pull or V-Brake lever should work fine with your cable. Searching for 'V-Brake levers' or 'mechanical disc brake levers' should provide plenty of responses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/avid/products/fr-5-lever&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spec page for the Avid FR-5 lever&lt;/a&gt;, you will see that they are compatible with both &quot;Mechanical disc brakes, Linear-pull brakes.&quot; V-Brakes are a type of linear-pull brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that most levers designed specifically for Cantilever Brakes will NOT be compatible. The key issue is that the levers must be direct or linear pull.  Some brake levers (e.g. Shimano's ST-EF60 shifter+brake lever combo) are switchable between canti's and V-brakes. If you don't set them to V-brake, you're not going to pull enough cable for proper braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T14:28:59.690" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T14:28:59.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18911" CreationDate="2014-01-08T23:46:21.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be looking for mechanical disc compatible mountain levers. I have used recycled linear-pull (rim brake) levers with mechanical discs without issues. However they may have been disc compatible.  If you check with your local bike shop or any of the online retailers you will be able to  select something that meets your budget. They may be specified as disc or disc/linear pull levers. I would suggest replacing both levers as the replacement will most likely have slightly different geometry from the original. The geometry difference will mean the pull, reach, leverage and modulation will differ from front to back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T23:46:21.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-09T01:16:27.110" Score="4" ViewCount="3303" Body="&lt;p&gt;The road where I live is on a flood plain and tends to flood every winter. Despite this, I have continued riding to work through the water. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying my best to dry the bike out at the end of the day, but I have noticed now (on the third day of the flooding) that the steering has become a lot heavier and there's some rusty residue coming out from the lower race of the headset. I'm planning to clean and re-grease it tomorrow, but I'm wondering whether any of the other bearings will need the same treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I'm worried about the wheel hubs and the bottom bracket. While the water isn't deep enough to submerge them, it does mean they get a thorough soaking. Is the water likely to cause the same problem with them? What about if they did become submerged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5401" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T14:37:10.643" Title="What maintenance is required after riding through deep water?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12750" CreationDate="2014-01-09T01:24:29.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently wrangled with a very difficult bottom bracket on a '73-'74 era Puegot.  There was no way that lockring was coming off, until of course I tried a few things.  After lots of &quot;PB Blaster&quot; and no success, then a mix of acetone and light oil (I used power steering fluid) I finally used an old trick I've learned long ago: brake fluid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I placed the bike frame on the floor laying down and placed a rag underneath and poured a liberal amount of brake fluid over the lockring.  I then allowed this to sit about two weeks and did one more pour-over in that time.  I was working a lot of hours so my temptation to touch the thing was minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then my final stage of the plan: I got a pair of Stilsons (ie, a Stilson wrench,&#xA; monkey wrench, plumber's wrench) and went to work.  I placed the bike back in the stand, if you don't have a stand, have an assistant to help with holding the bike frame steady against the force of your turning efforts. The Stilson was large and so I could adjust the opening of the top and bottom large enough to get a grip on the lock ring.  With the long handles and also the heft of the tool helping, I was able to turn the lockring with little effort!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might I add that after I removed the lock-ring and then finally the cup, it was apparent after I started cleaning both up that someone might have used a thread-lock to keep the assembly from coming undone.  This will contribute to your problem if done and this is where chemistry (solvents and such) comes in handy as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8985" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-03-02T03:02:06.573" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T03:02:06.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-09T03:27:09.540" Score="1" ViewCount="1397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own some NOS shifters, Campy Athena 9 speed, from 1998 i guess.&#xA;do you guys know if I can use it with any campagnolo front/rear derailleur?&#xA;how do I know what is compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1246" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T10:24:22.073" Title="Campagnolo Athena 9 speed compatibility?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18864" CreationDate="2014-01-09T11:17:17.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no one answer: do you prefer to spin the cadence higher or grind out with a big gear? Are your hills sprintable? When you switch to fixed you'll not only have to deal with working hard up the hill, but descents can be tricky as gravity tries to push the cadence up higher than your legs are used to taking it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you use a geared bike and experiment with which seem to be the best compromise gears for all of your likely scenarios. Pay special attention to which gear you're in and then try to do a whole journey without changing. After a few experiments you'll have got a good feel for your situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also run a rear wheel with different cogs to allow for a change of heart - many people run with a slightly easier cog on one side for winter, the other side being slightly harder for the better weather months. (I do that, but then generally tend to forget to change and stick with the harder one (48x16, ~80 gear inches) the year around ...) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T11:17:17.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-09T12:38:00.870" Score="3" ViewCount="1901" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the last 3 years I've been using light (800grams) tyres front and rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I've been having too many rear tyre pinch flats (tried everything: high PSI, tubeless, heavy duty tubes) I'd like to switch to a real double ply DH tyre for the rear which weights 1200 grams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is running a heavier tyre only on the rear suggested?&#xA;Or should I switch both front and rear at once? Maybe for bike balance issues while jumping etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. I ride mtb all mountain and downhill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T14:45:29.927" Title="Using a much heavier rear tyre than in the front" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18918" CreationDate="2014-01-09T12:57:47.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no need to have equal tires on both wheels, except for aesthetics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure that front tire has enough grip so you can remain in control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for getting pinch flats - make sure you mount tubes correctly and they are not trapped between tire and rim. Having high pressure should help you avoid pinches. More durable tire will help with punctures, not with pinch flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. My own experience is limited to MTB XC marathons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T12:57:47.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18914" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:37:10.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had first hand experience with what a full immersion can do. Racing through 3-foot deep muddy water and diluted mud isn't as great as it sounds!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem comes from your bearings, no matter what type they are. At the time I had a sealed square taper bottom bracket which is more or less impervious to getting grit and fluid and inside. However, repeated immersion (only over the course of an hour) caused water and dirt to get inside which caused this nasty grinding sound. Any other bearing is going to be similar. In my experience cage style headset bearings tend to dry out faster but pick up more grit, which is probably why your steering appears to be less responsive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the rusty water you're seeing, it could be coming from uncoated areas within the frame, and unprotected parts going through the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your questions, yes you will experience similar issues. However, these could take more or less time depending on how much water they are exposed to and how well you mitigate those effects. Making sure water is removed (drying the bike, turning it on it's side or upside down) will help. You will also have an accelerated maintenance schedule which means cleaning bearings and regreasing parts. Following a proactive maintenance schedule will give your bike a much longer life than if you wait until something is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T14:37:10.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18918" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:45:29.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Matching tires is great if you spend more time showing off your ride than actually riding it, otherwise mismatch to your hearts content!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some effects of mismatched weight though. Bike handling will change slightly as more weight is rearward. Since your riding AM/DH, this is a good thing as it will give you a little more stability on the downs. On the other hand, it's going to mean that the front end will lift a little easier on the ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same problems will affect you in the air, though to what degree depends on your riding style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These both depend on your riding style and how sensitive you are to changes in your bike's weight/handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, if you have problems with both pinch flats and sidewall/tread cuts, I'd recommend the dual tube/tubeless setup. This allows you to pinch a tube, or seal a cut and still have a tube for air. Also, look for tires with a higher durometer (rubber hardness) which should be less prone to punctures, cuts, and deformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T14:45:29.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18887" CreationDate="2014-01-09T15:24:24.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me it often helps to change the position of the saddle up or down during the ride. Even if you lift or lower the saddle half a centimeter it can lead to a different position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the office I have lower back pain sometimes, changing the position of the body from time to time helps most times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is almost not possible to find the one and only bike setting for every time. Your body won't feel the same way every day of the year. Once you may have some stiffness in the neck without noticing it, but it can make you move different than other days at it can lead to for example lower back pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and I had lower back pain a few years always when I made sit-ups one time in last few days. I fixed that by stopping the sit-ups ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7047" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T15:24:24.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-09T16:46:18.000" Score="12" ViewCount="7763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to get another pair of glasses for winter commuting. I currently use simple ski googles with my snowboard helmet...the problem is they are tinted. Since it's quite dark for the return, i would like to find some clear googles. Also, the temperature is around -15 to -30 degree celsius...I need something to prevent my eyes from crying and freezing or the other way around ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8994" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T23:39:21.207" Title="Suggestions for winter cycling glasses?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18925" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:01:38.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ski goggles are a good option, but the main problem with ski goggles is that they block your peripheral vision, even if you have clear lenses. You should augment them with a helmet mounted mirror. These work well with balaclavas (which are nice in the winter, depending on where you live). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular old clear safety glasses like you use in high school chemistry such as the 3M 91252-80025T are another good option especially if you wear glasses. They don't impair your peripheral vision, but they do leave an imprint under your eyes due to the band tension. Sometimes you have problems with the nose area if you're wearing a balaclava. There are a bit more stylish ones like the Uvex Ignite series, but those don't work well for people who wear glasses (You may want something bigger than these in area as well, but in the same style). These are similar in style to the cycling glasses Fox and other companies sell, but cost a fraction of the price. I've found in general safety glasses to fog less than ski goggles at the tradeoff of slightly less isolation. At -30C, I'd probably be inclined to use the ski goggles, especially if there was significant wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to consider a full face cycling helmet with visor but these have the most severe peripheral vision penalties and you may get hot. Mirrors are a must with this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you may want tinted lenses at times as well as clear lenses due to the same reasons as skiers (glare, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fogging, you can try things like cat crap, depending your lens material. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T05:47:39.923" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T05:47:39.923" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4912" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:02:36.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that if you alter the question to: where in the road would you want to be if you pulled the brake and it locked up?  When you lock your rear wheel, you normally keep heading in the same direction, maybe with some sideways movement to the rear that can be adjusted with the steering, but you generally stay upright.  Whereas when you lock your front wheel, you either go over your handlebars or (more likely) your front wheel skids sideways (and out from under you), both of which are likely to throw you onto the road.  Take both these settings to the road, and when you find yourself turning across oncoming traffic (turning right in UK), you really don't want to lock your front wheel and end up under oncoming vehicles, so you use the rear brake.  When you are turning the opposite way, away from the traffic (turning left in UK), you will likely have either a verge or pavement on which to fall if you do come off, and the traffic behind you &quot;should&quot;(!) be manoeuvring to avoid you anyway, and at the very least be considering you as another road user so able to take avoiding action should the worst happen.  As a result, in UK rear brake lever will be on the left (right hand indicating), front brake lever on the right (left hand indicating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8995" LastEditorUserId="839" LastEditDate="2014-05-03T16:29:01.247" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T16:29:01.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18916" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:01:42.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This page is incredibly useful for figuring this stuff out. Campy shifters with just about any front derailleur should be fine since they have micro trim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Gear-changing_Dimensions#REAR_SHIFTING_TABLES&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Gear-changing_Dimensions#REAR_SHIFTING_TABLES&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:01:42.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17912" CreationDate="2014-01-09T21:23:31.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you cut the spring in your mechanical gear system, gear will change without an important torque. But i don't know the strong needed to move the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8997" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T21:23:31.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18890" CreationDate="2014-01-10T11:24:46.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be that these drivers have become accustomed to cyclists (and perhaps pedestrians) who cross without right of way and are wary that you might do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're doing the right thing by waiting and politely waving them on. This and educating casual cyclists about the rules of the road might slowly improve the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to discourage them from waiting then stronger gestures might be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looking down at a map or phone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actually getting off your bike and standing next to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, both of these mean it takes you longer to get going again, so you might miss the gap in the traffic you're waiting for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T11:24:46.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-10T11:38:28.223" Score="7" ViewCount="1222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unicycles are not particularly expensive, seem to be light and portable, also fun. This gets me wondering if spending a couple of months to learn riding such a thing would boost a mountain biker's coordination, balance, timing, reaction, fall handling, etc. Or would just &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9790/what-skills-drills-should-i-learn-to-descend-faster-and-more-confidently-for-m&quot;&gt;riding the intended type of trails&lt;/a&gt; be more educational?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To clarify, I am sure that doing something is the best way to get good at it. However, I am also aware of the law of diminishing returns. That is, if one's idea is to be good at mtb, maybe after a lot of riding, they should consider other activities, hat are only somewhat beneficial in the same direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2020-05-04T03:51:35.713" Title="Would learning to ride a unicycle boost biking skills?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;unicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18937" CreationDate="2014-01-10T13:01:39.223" Score="8" ViewCount="46614" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's my first time trying my hand at spray painting my bicycle. Do I really need to spray paint with primer first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already dismantled and sandpapered the bike and was thinking of giving it two coats of matte black instead of Primer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9001" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T03:02:28.497" Title="Do I really need to use primer first?" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18933" CreationDate="2014-01-10T14:13:05.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that riding the intended type of trails on a mountain bike would make you better at mountain biking. The following is a subjective argument based on my personal opinion. I'm sure some people will disagree with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my argument: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding a unicycle will improve your coordinate and balance, sure, and are great for those two things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are a myriad of of mountain bike skills that you're going to miss out on, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Navigation of terrain including off-camber turns roots, dips, climbing, accelerating, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Important things like log-over technique, can only be learned on a mountain bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cornering, counter-steering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance of speed/conservation of energy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When to brake, how much to brake, when to stop breaking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limitation of grip, learning how to ride a slide, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while unicycle will improve your balance, actually mountain biking will improve your mountain biking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were my money, I'd buy a unicycle and learn how to ride that too. Who knows, maybe you're on to something!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T14:13:05.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18935" CreationDate="2014-01-10T14:27:16.070" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have extensive experience painting metal. Here are my rules of thumb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rough up the metal, lots of nooks and crannies ensure the primer will stick. Sanding or sandblasting is the best way to do this. As pointed out in the comments, aluminium should be roughed up &quot;nicely&quot; :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the surface with some type of alcohol after you're done sanding. After you've cleaned it, wear gloves when handling the frame from now on. The oils on your hands can taint the paint job.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I always double coat the metal with primer because metal is prone to oxidization. Effect is diminished in aluminium, but can't be too careful. If your bicycle frame is aluminium, you'll need a special type of primer. Ask the guys at the hardware store or a car repair place what they recommend. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single component paint works better on aluminium. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Primer is necessary for all types of metal &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special attention is needed for aluminium&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The amount of effort you put into the paint job will show in the final product. Do it right once and your bike will look fine for years. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastEditorUserId="8930" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T14:47:27.077" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T14:47:27.077" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18933" CreationDate="2014-01-10T14:31:29.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unicycling is such a niche thing that I doubt you're going to get much in the way of scientific results saying any improvement in riding skills, but I'll give it a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there are such things as mountain unicycles, you can certainly improve your skills! Balance, cornering, and trail sense (knowing what to do on what terrain) are common skills no matter how you ride. Things will be a little different in regards to bike handling, managing the front wheel, and jumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to do it expressly to improve on your mountain bike skills, I would recommend sticking to the two-wheel variety. Now, if you've got an arm injury or something like that, then it would be a good alternative to at least do something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Personal note: most folks think unicycling/cyclists look ridiculous and you will get laughed at more often than not (if not always to your face). So if you can handle that too, then go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T14:31:29.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18933" CreationDate="2014-01-10T15:00:02.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;spending a couple of months to learn riding such a thing ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average person can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84252&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;learn to ride it in just 4-16 hours&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a super fun and possibly mind expanding activity but it didn't improve me as a bicycle rider (bmx or mtb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T15:00:02.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18941" CreationDate="2014-01-10T15:01:58.147" Score="1" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.herocycles.com/hawknuage1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Hero Hawk Nu-Age&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, which I bought it two years back. In India, this cycle was mostly used for sports. As this cycle has very thin wheels &lt;code&gt;27 * 1-1/4&lt;/code&gt;, I could not ride this on bumpy roads for long time. Whenever I drive on a bumpy road, the wheels bend and had to be corrected. So now I decided to get the cycle replaced with Shimano tyres and get the drop-down racing style handlebar replaced with straight handlebar. Can anyone please suggest or guide me on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6118" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T15:18:04.277" Title="How to alter a sports cycle to avoid wheel bend" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18940" CreationDate="2014-01-10T15:18:04.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your rims are bending under normal loads there are a couple of things you should check and maintain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire Pressure: Running at the higher range of pressure for your tires will help you avoid bending the rims when you hit holes or other obstacles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wider Tires: If your brake clearance supports it, you can run slightly wider tires. This will give you a smoother ride at the higher pressures you are running in (1).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;True the Wheel, Tension the Spokes: Have the wheels professionally trued and the spoke tension equalized. When the wheel is out of true and the spoke tension has marked differences, you are far more likely to break spokes and bend the rims.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not have to switch to a different size rim, and doing so may not work with your brakes anyway. Riders for decades used 27&quot; rims and if maintained well, do so with few problems. Note however, that if your current rims are in bad shape, they may not be able to be trued, and in that case, new wheels of the same size are recommended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding on bumpy roads a lot, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;learn to true and tension the wheel&lt;/a&gt; yourself to save money. Constantly riding cobbles or bad roads may require you to true the wheels every few days or weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T15:18:04.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-10T18:30:52.830" Score="3" ViewCount="1941" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use friction shifters with a clutch style rear derailleur like the 2014 Shimano Deore M615 Shadow Plus?  Or does this put extra tension on the shift cable that will cause slips with a friction setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T14:49:13.487" Title="Can I use friction shifters with a clutch style rear derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18855" CreationDate="2014-01-10T18:51:03.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worn my knee warmers &lt;em&gt;under&lt;/em&gt; my tights, it worked well to keep me warm and they stayed in place well.  However, the tights were the kind that went over top of my standard bib shorts, not the kind of tights with integrated chamois.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try and wear them over your tights, you might need to get a larger size kneee warmer, depending on the thickness of our tights. You might also have trouble with them staying put, since they tend to be held up partially by the bottom of your cycling shorts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, If it's colder than my comfort zone with just tights, I'll usually wear a pair of stretchy synthetic knickers on warmer days (like chrome telegraph knickers) or some breathable shell pants (north face resolve) on colder days over top of my tights to help kill the wind and retain more heat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T18:51:03.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-11T15:31:49.653" Score="1" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering putting on a cyclocross event and was wondering if anyone has any experience with the after math of the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T02:16:52.103" Title="Do cyclocross races permanently damage the grass they are run on?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18837" CreationDate="2014-01-11T16:09:16.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of possible explanations for why one might be quicker than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One factor is: you, for a whole range of potential reasons,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe you pedalled harder (e.g because of fatigue)? A power meter on each bike would help isolate this, but.. a bit expensive (unless you could, say, borrow a Stages or Polar power-meter from a friend for the day?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe you could are comfortable one one bike (e.g better fit, or just more familiar with the handling of one bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you believe one bike is faster than the other, you may subconsciously ride it faster - these sort of issues come up in scientific studies all the time (e.g &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Observer_bias&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;observer bias&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Placebo_effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the placebo effect&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor is how you compared the bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A single run over the same course is unlikely to give meaningful results. It would be useful to ride the course several times on each bike - the more times the better.&#xA;The variation of a single bike is an important factor - e.g if bikeB was slower, but&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GPS isn't perfect. If you are calculating speed from GPS, any positional error will skew the average speed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the wheel related differences (rolling resistance via tread, pressure etc), there's countless other mechanical reasons one bike might just be faster.. I guess the main thing is to consider all the places where friction could occur. E.g unlikely but maybe the brakes are rubbing a bit on one bike? Or maybe the wheel-hubs or bottom-bracket are a bit gummed up? Maybe one chain is more worn and in need of lubrication? etc etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T16:09:16.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-11T17:46:46.247" Score="3" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;While pedalling, every 10 seconds or so, the chain on my bike makes the sound it makes during a gear shift - it &quot;clicks&quot;, as if it's clicking into place in the new gear. But there is no gear shift going on - it just skips periodically as I pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels as if I briefly lose control, so I'd like to fix this before the problem gets worse. What could be causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1585" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T14:16:36.190" Title="Chain repeatedly tries to click into place without gear change" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18946" CreationDate="2014-01-11T18:36:36.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've observed a number of cyclocross races in public parks in the area I live. These typically include paved areas, grassy areas and some dirt. If there's been rain recently (or raining during the race), the grass along the race course &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like it's been turned to mud. If you look more closely, you can see that the individual blades of grass are all intact, they're just bent over and muddy. A few months later, you can't even tell where the race course was anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it depends on the type of grass. For well-established and regularly mowed grass, such as is common in parks and for playing sports on, the damage is temporary and cosmetic. The ruts settle out on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like areas of slope that cause the racers to dig in and slip around more can get more damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo essay of some cyclocross races the day of and several weeks later: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://api.ning.com/files/zdPAeE6CK7J69K-gbRX4ru1-SAay5M6pkU6QqXD5QiNJnWx4-gdFn9oV0w47vypkoo67sVWzznYDLM4RwIDwgGVxfQP8Ivn0/AfterEffects.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://api.ning.com/files/zdPAeE6CK7J69K-gbRX4ru1-SAay5M6pkU6QqXD5QiNJnWx4-gdFn9oV0w47vypkoo67sVWzznYDLM4RwIDwgGVxfQP8Ivn0/AfterEffects.pdf&lt;/a&gt; (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ukcyclocross.com/profiles/blogs/after-effects-of-a-cyclocross&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ukcyclocross.com/profiles/blogs/after-effects-of-a-cyclocross&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross races are generally run during a season that grass is dormant. It may not fully recover to looking nice until a few months later when the sunny/warm season starts up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T18:36:36.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9307" CreationDate="2014-01-11T21:09:31.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the exact same bike with the exact same problem. After a while of riding the chain broke and fell off on the road leaving me without brakes headed into traffic. I suggest buying a new chain for these bikes. So far I've had to replace quit a few of the parts on this bike, including the plastic pedals, the handle bar grippers, the chain, and both inner tubes( which suddenly popped with no sign of a puncture). It's a good looking bike but just about everything on it is trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9009" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T21:09:31.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18952" CreationDate="2014-01-11T22:59:43.290" Score="12" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in San Francisco and hills are crazy (think ~40° slope) and I would like to avoid taking many such hills (both when going down and up). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there Google Maps-like apps that can take this into account? I don't mind biking for 30% more distance if it means avoiding crazy slopes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3656" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T05:24:58.153" Title="Topography aware route planning" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18951" CreationDate="2014-01-12T00:00:14.967" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google maps tries to do this in biking mode to begin with: &lt;a href=&quot;http://googleblog.blogspot.com/2010/03/biking-directions-added-to-google-maps.html&quot;&gt;http://googleblog.blogspot.com/2010/03/biking-directions-added-to-google-maps.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mapquest is also hill aware to some extent: &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.mapquest.com/2011/04/21/cycle-route-planner-aerial-languages/&quot;&gt;http://blog.mapquest.com/2011/04/21/cycle-route-planner-aerial-languages/&lt;/a&gt; (I have tried this, but I don't think its particularly great. But I haven't tried it in SF).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific to SF, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://amarpai.com/bikemap/&quot;&gt;http://amarpai.com/bikemap/&lt;/a&gt; exists. &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesy.com/&quot;&gt;http://bikesy.com/&lt;/a&gt; is another SF specific one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://veloroutes.org/bikemaps/&quot;&gt;http://veloroutes.org/bikemaps/&lt;/a&gt; isn't directions, but gives you topographical information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T00:00:14.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2014-01-12T01:32:10.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution to this extraordinarily irritating problem is to use a can or jar of vulcanizing rubber cement for most repairs and to reserve the single-use tube of cement for emergencies. Specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ride with a spare inner tube and a patch kit (with an unopened tube of rubber cement).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you get a flat, use the spare inner tube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you get a second flat and don't have another spare inner tube, use the patch kit. Now that you've opened your tube of rubber cement, close it tightly (squeeze until the cement is showing to make sure there's no air).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you get home, use a can of rubber cement (more about this below) with a brush to patch any punctured tubes you brought home with you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep your used tube of rubber cement for at most a month or so. Once you've opened the tube, consider it used. You might get lucky, but unless you like being stranded on the side of the road, it's safest to put a new patch kit in your saddle bag as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard mixed reports about whether all brands of rubber cement are vulcanizing. To be safe, I recommend buying rubber cement at an auto parts store in the tire repair section. I bought a 4 oz. can for about $8. Most (or all?) such cans come with a brush on the inside of the lid. This built-in brush makes it easy to apply a thin, even layer of cement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you'll only use your tube of cement when you get two flats in one day, you won't have too many (if any) leftover patches when you throw out a tube of dried-out cement. And a brush is more convenient for patching anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T01:32:10.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18946" CreationDate="2014-01-12T02:16:52.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do after the race is rake out (flatten out) the ruts, the grass will come back but you don't want ruts in your grass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Course layout can help, try to limit turns on grass, rolling straight through is generally fine unless really wet and soft. We put on a race today and routed to take advantage of gravel paths in the park, open areas under evergreen trees (lots of pine needles) and zigged and zagged a path through the trees. We did have sections on grass but mostly kept to long straights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time of year can help too, last year, this same race was below zero (no snow) but frozen ground which hardened the grass areas and had no mud. We cannot schedule around weather, but if you are in an area that is warm in September but frozen in December, I'd pick December.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T02:16:52.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-12T23:01:39.827" Score="1" ViewCount="5357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of 700c wheels and am looking to buy a used frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want a frame that fits the 700c tires so I don't have to file down the front dropouts or use long reach brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the frames called that fit 700c tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7634" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T04:28:37.963" Title="What is the frame called that fits 700c wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18955" CreationDate="2014-01-13T04:28:37.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no 'official' standard, as mentioned in the comments. However, in a crude sense, I'd call them 'road frames.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BMX Frame - Accepts 20&quot; Wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cruiser Frame - Accepts 24&quot; Wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain Bike / MTB Frame - Generally accepts 26&quot; mountain bike wheels, unless specified otherwise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'29er' Frame - 29&quot; Mountain bike wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road Frame - Generally accepts 700c wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there's exceptions to every one of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T04:28:37.963" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-13T05:00:30.370" Score="11" ViewCount="4499" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the past few months, I have been thinking about clipless pedals.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am mostly a long distance rider. I go for the randonneuring and long distance triathlons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From various sources, I am informed that I can increase speed wearing clipless pedals but not ride long distances like 600 km or 1000 km. These are not expert sources. I want to hear from experts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you please tell me if I can go for clipless shoes and pedals for long distances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T07:03:40.867" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T06:40:25.800" Title="Clipless shoes &amp; pedals and long distance" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;randonneuring&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18957" CreationDate="2014-01-13T06:24:26.747" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedals let you pull up a bit and road shoes are rigid-ish, so you can get some more power from each turn (of course, you're using your muscles in a bit of a different way). This also gives a bit of a different pressure distribution than platform pedals (look at the layout of say, a Look pedal versus a platform pedal). In an off road situation, they prevent you from bouncing off the pedals as well. You can use them for going for long distances just fine -- in fact, thats where they're primarily advantageous (note that for riding long distances, you need to be sufficiently physically fit and have a sufficiently well suited bike, such as a well bike fitted touring bike -- if you don't, no shoe can help/hurt you). However, walking around in them can be annoying (there are cleat covers and other things for dealing with this) due to the cleat and the type of sole in most cycling shoes. Note that just because something is labeled mountain doesn't mean it won't work with road (you just need the same type of cleat and pedal). They do make one side platform one side SPD (a type of clipless) pedals for people who ride with regular shoes sometimes and SPD shoes at other times / are transitioning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/shoe-pedal.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/shoe-pedal.html&lt;/a&gt; is good reading. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-pedals.html&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-pedals.html&lt;/a&gt; is as well, though note that SPD is also available for road use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is fit and knowledge of how to use them - you don't want to fall down while stopping or have uncomfortable shoes for long distances, so you may want to invest in shoe fitting when giving them a shot. Much like buying boots, you may not use the same size cycling shoe as you do sneakers (especially if you wear US 13 sneakers like me...). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T06:42:58.740" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T06:42:58.740" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2014-01-13T10:51:15.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a road cyclist with a bit of experience, and like most of us, without ever having been a champion, so I trust my thoughts may be useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find the position of the drops uncomfortable, this is perhaps due to your bike setup being wrong for your particular body shape. It could also be the result of a  bike that is the wrong size for you, i.e., too big, forcing you to stretch too far. The shape of the bars may also be at fault, some angles suit and some don't. I've changed handlebars in the past to ensure a comfy fit. Most of your riding will be on the tops, only some in the drops. From both positions you must be able to firmly engage the brakes. You must be comfortable when riding, injury can potentially result otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saddle position fore/aft may also be a factor in your stretch limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend seeing your local bike shop, and getting a bike fit. But remember everyone is different when it comes to flexibility, leg, arm and back length, and riding style and position preference. There are guidelines, but no one rule fits all. For example, I've got short legs, and a long back, so typically buy a frame 1-2cm larger than an otherwise a 'normal legged' person would, to get the frame length right. I compromise as a result in that my drop from the saddle to the handlebars is only 6cm instead of perhaps 8-10cm, but it helps me on hills, and is easier on my back, which at age 48, is useful as I'm not as strong or as flexible as I was when I was 22.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are set up, some minor modification of your position can be found with experimentation, and some miles under your belt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I trust this helps.  All the best with the riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9015" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T12:41:48.263" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T12:41:48.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18957" CreationDate="2014-01-13T11:30:04.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advice previously given is very good and I won't repeat that. When buying shoes, go for a comfy fit, and not a tight squeeze, and they must not flex. Make sure your cleats are aligned so that your legs will spin comfortably. To get the most, your bike and riding position also needs to be optimised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get used to cycling cleats on your shoes/'clipless' pedals without toestraps, you'll look back and wonder how you ever lived without them! Yes, they will allow you to significantly increase your power, speed, distance, comfort, and energy output (especially on hills and accelerating), and overall increase your enjoyment of cycling. Ive used them for over 20 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safe and happy cycling, all the best for 2014. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9015" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T11:30:04.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18951" CreationDate="2014-01-13T11:59:05.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. On Google maps you can plan a route. The Google earth picture will also give you almost a 3-dimensional view. If you use the Ctrl+C button and copy the link from Google maps of your profile (it looks like a chain in the box that appears to the left of the map). Then do a google search and type in 'GPS Visualizer'. It is (currently) a free program that will allow to paste in the profile under 'Draw a profile', and after pressing Ctrl+V, which copies the link details, and pressing 'draw the profile' hey presto, up comes your elevation profile of the route! This will allow you to see how hilly your route is, and compare other potential suitable routes and distances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your other option is to tackle those hills head-on, utilising a good hill climb technique, the right clothing, cleated shoes with pedals (without toe straps, known as clipless pedals), and gearing suited yo your needs, you can build your fitness over time and suddenly those hills ain't so large. The fun part/reward is going down, but that also requires the correct technique to be as safe as is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However some steep and long hills will always be a mental and physical challenge, (especially if there are many of them in your route) no matter how fit you are. A cautious approach and tackling smaller hills is a good place to start, especially if your fitness is not high at present, or after a gruelling day at work, or at the end of a long ride when your energy reserves are about out. But over time you do improve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling shops should be able to advise or sell you a magazine or book on training tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a 19 year layoff from cycling, 18 months ago I  saw a Doctor for a general check up first, as I hadn't exercised in that time, but after quietly building up, and at first avoiding the bigger hills, Im now challenging those bigger, steeper and longer hills, even 30km long mountain climbs, and now going up them at a respectable rate. Although not as fast when I was 22 and racing competitively, as Im now 48, one has to be realistic in terms of time, priorities, money and energy availability.  I guess from your comment about going a longer distance to avoid a hill, you have some basic fitness already. So I encourage you to build your overall fitness over time, and then give it a go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this answer helps, and isn't too long-winded. &#xA;Regards and best wishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9015" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T11:59:05.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="420" CreationDate="2014-01-13T13:46:43.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say it depends - here in the UK the air pumps at petrol stations all have pressure gauges of some sort, but many aren't suitable.&#xA;The digital ones where you select the pressure to which you want your tyre inflated often max out at 60psi* but that's not the problem - the problem is that they inflate for a bit then let a bit out to test and correct.  And they assume a car tyre. So to get a car tyre from say 30psi to 34, they might hit 46 and then let some out.  To get a bike tyre from say 55psi to 60 they will put enough air in to make a car tyre inflate by a few psi - meaning your bike tyre will get rather too hard.  I don't fancy measuring the peak pressure they'll do. That's why they say not to use them for bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The older sort with a proper pressure gauge also generally have a trigger that you can press lightly, and should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you're sorted for valve compatibility here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*not even high enough for my van, resulting in some hard work with my track pump to finish the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T13:46:43.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18948" CreationDate="2014-01-13T14:09:41.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this occurs every 10 seconds, this leads to believe that you have a frozen link in your chain or a defective link in your chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were a cable or dérailleur adjustment, it would occur all the time while pedalling. The pause leads me to think that the chain is fine when continuing around the big sprockets in the front, but when it gets to the cassette and dérailleur, the size of the cogs and the angle at which the chain is being bent causes the stiff link to manifest itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As something you can fix at home (in the event of a stiff link), lube the chain with any bicycle lube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't help it, you probably have a defective link and the bicycle should be brought to the local bike shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T14:09:41.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18943" CreationDate="2014-01-13T14:18:28.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a good question. I speculated about this over the weekend and came to two conclusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friction shifters were designed for narrow(er) rear cassettes. The largest cluster I've ever seen a friction shifter work on is 8 speed. I don't think it will pull enough cable for you to access all the speeds in your ten speed cluster. &lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: As an insiteful commenter noted, the cluster is only 1.8 mm wider for a 10 speed than an 8 speed so it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; pull enough cable for your needs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trimming will be more difficult than with index shifting. The industry has added several gears and not much space to the rear triangle. The result is thinner gears and chains, so dialing in the rear trim will be more difficult. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, will it work? Probably. Is it ideal? Probably not, but it's worth continuing research about the topic. Just my 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastEditorUserId="8930" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T14:49:13.487" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T14:49:13.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18951" CreationDate="2014-01-13T16:11:56.857" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com&quot;&gt;http://ridewithgps.com&lt;/a&gt; is the tool my local bike club uses. It doesn't plan routes for you, but had several overlays including Google's bike routes and topo maps. As you plot your route the graph at the bottom shows the altitude and grade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Seattle and find that Ride With GPS works great for finding reasonable routes through the hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T16:11:56.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18925" CreationDate="2014-01-13T18:14:39.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for downhill MTB goggles.  These will be made to fit with a standard bike helmet and will have sticky plastic on the straps so that they will stay in place on your helmet.  I rode with a pair last winter and was very happy with them.  Kept my eyes warm and didn't fog even under heavy riding.  Many also come standard with clear lens so visibility won't be an issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/batPy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MTB goggles&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikereviews.com/2010/10/ryders-bike-goggles-banger-shore/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt; - Note these arn't the pair I have - just did a quick search and posted the first pair I found.  I am not endorsing these goggles or the company selling them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="2187" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T08:37:03.977" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T08:37:03.977" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18973" CreationDate="2014-01-13T23:25:44.987" Score="9" ViewCount="20616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/bicycles/whyte/bikes-mountain-bikes-29er-dual-suspension-mtb-bikes/whyte-t-129-s/sans-souci/nsw/102198026&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Whyte T129s&lt;/a&gt; and have seen that there's a couple of options for fitting panniers to the back of a full-sus bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XUdOG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Topeak&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freeload - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thule.com/en/se/products/luggage-and-bags/bike-bags-and-racks&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;see link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions whether either of these would work for (occasional) off-road touring? Concerned that the dropper post on the 129s might not take a rack (like the Topeak) bolted on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3670" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T13:18:49.300" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T14:45:55.850" Title="Can I fit rear panniers to a full-suspension bike with a dropper post?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;topeak&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18972" CreationDate="2014-01-14T00:02:05.250" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main issue is the load limits on those racks, and the second one is why those limits exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thule.com/en/se/products/luggage-and-bags/bike-bags-and-racks/racks/thule-pack-n-pedal-tour-rack-_-pp_100016&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thule Pack ’n Pedal Tour Rack&lt;/a&gt; is claimed to take 25kg, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com.au/topeak-qr-beam-rack-mtx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Topeak seatpost mounted racks&lt;/a&gt; will take 9kg. Thule seem to be selling rebadged Freeload gear? I have seen a Thule rack fail with significantly less than 25kg on it, and while being ridden fairly gently (very gently by full suspension MTB standards - think hiking track rather than singletrack), when the rider twisted the bike from side to side. None of the solutions of full suspension bikes are robust enough for harder mountain bike routes, and none will carry their full weight rating without really affecting the bike's handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for that is that full suspension frames and components are not designed to take the extra force of the load, and often not designed to take much force at all where the racks attach. Ideally the rack will attach to a point that's designed to take a load but isn't being used for that load - V brake posts on a bike with disk brakes, for example. But regardless, if you have a lightweight bike and you load it up and ride it hard, something will break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at designed-for-touring bikes they usually have heavy frames, built in points to attach racks, and are sold with heavy wheels and beefed up components. At least compared to a fun bike or racing bike, which is what most full suspension bikes are. There are full suspension touring bikes, like the Bike Friday, but they are built very differently to mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual compromise is a hardtail - that gives you a solid place to attach a rear rack while getting some benefit from the front suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much gear you carry depends on what you mean by touring. To some people touring is accompanying a tour bus and support crew on short daily rides, to others it's riding the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canning_Stock_Route&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Canning Stock Route&lt;/a&gt; without a support vehicle. In many ways your weight budget will determine where you can go along that spectrum. You can also spend your way out of some of the problems by using ultra-light hiking gear to cut the weight you're carrying. As an example, I normally carry about 20kg of gear on month-plus tours, then another 10kg-20kg of food and water. For a weekend I'd not take cooking gear and minimise everything else to take about 15kg total assuming there's water en route, but that means accepting that if it rains I sleep in wet polypro and if we're delayed a day I go hungry (ie, trading weight for risk). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14142/going-on-a-long-distance-bike-tour-what-kit-do-i-need&quot;&gt;some of&lt;/a&gt; the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10143/are-bicycle-rear-racks-and-panniers-suitable-for-cross-country-riding&quot;&gt;touring questions&lt;/a&gt; to get an idea of what exactly you want to do and what gear you're likely to need to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note on risk: if you're touring off road you need to keep an eye on your escape routes. Specifically, remember that you go much faster riding than you do carrying a broken mountain bike. If you break the bike late on the first day of a two day ride you might have to spend three days walking out (assuming you're unhurt). On-road touring is usually less risky because you can flag down a passing motorist and get a ride (or call a taxi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T00:13:03.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19003" CreationDate="2014-01-14T04:40:06.230" Score="2" ViewCount="1268" Body="&lt;p&gt;The goal is to carry a change of clothes and the MacBook Air (1.7 cm high, 29.95 cm wide, 19.2 cm deep and 1.06 kg) on a 14km commute. I've used Ortlieb panniers (on a Tubus rack) but I don't like the way my heels can hit them, they way they stick out on the sides or the way they add drag. Nicely made though! Also I don't want all the weight on one side and I don't want to carry two of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A backpack is way too sweaty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best rack top solution so far is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004URMYFS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rixen &amp;amp; Kaul Rackpack 1&lt;/a&gt; mounted on a matching Rixen &amp;amp; Kaul Freerack (sorry, can't find a link for that one). A MacBook Air 11&quot; (bare - no sleeve), a pair of jeans and a T-shirt are a tight fit. Other stuff goes in the side and it's workable. But I can see that it isn't a great solution because the laptop has to be placed in diagonally with the thin edge sticking up. Over time the sharp edge of the laptop is definitely going to wear through the bag, and any crash is going to cause a lot of damage to the laptop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also tried a Deuter 10l rack top pack - it is also too small, not quite as good as the Rixen &amp;amp; Kaul and the velcro attachment is much slower and less secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a lot of nice things to say about Rixen &amp;amp; Kaul. It is a very well made bag and when I had a problem with the clip they sorted it out right away. This bag is just a little bit too small to be perfect. The click fix system is great. I have thought of removing the click fix mount and assign it to some other bag but it's a last resort and chances are my home-made solution is not going to be as nice as the ideal bag I'm wanting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I looked at the Topeak Office MTX and it isn't for me. Inside it has a big divider/pocket thing that takes a lot of space and can't be removed. It doesn't appear to be particularly sturdy, especially the attachment mechanism. Their beam rack product has a quick release fastener rather than bolts so anyone could just unclip and walk away with it. The rack is just not finished as well as the Tubus/Rixen-Kaul racks I already have, it feels chunky and heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution looks like it is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.com/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=officebag_hv&amp;amp;biketoy=cityoffice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ortlieb Office High Visibility QL3&lt;/a&gt; - 30x40x17cm, 21l (unfortunately it's more expensive than the Topeak bag and rack system). While it is still side-mounted the QL3 system attaches to my existing rack so I can still use my current rack top bag with it's special mount when I don't need so much space. Position on the bike is widely adjustable so heel strike isn't an issue. It's rectangular so folded clothes will hopefully stay folded rather than falling down into the pointy bit of my older tapered Ortlieb panniers. It is waterproof without needing a rain cover. It's eerily reflective over its whole surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="1914" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T03:32:40.883" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T04:36:18.120" Title="Which rack top bag fits an 11&quot; MacBook Air with space for a little padding?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18957" CreationDate="2014-01-14T06:22:08.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from what the others have said here (with details on how to use clipless pedals), your original question was can you ride long distances in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is one of the things they are designed for. By keeping your foot exactly placed on the pedal, they maximize your pedaling efficiency. You foot never falls off the pedal. I rode over 3,000 miles last year using my SPD shoes and pedals. My friend rode over 5,000 miles last year in his Look shoes &amp;amp; pedals. We both rode &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ragbrai.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ragbrai&lt;/a&gt;, an annual 450 - 500 mile ride across Iowa. This ride has well over 10,000 riders and at least 90% of them use clipless pedals. Most of the remaining 10% use toe clips. It is unusual to see someone without these types of pedals on this ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have stated here, log distance riding often requires some walking. I use SPD shoes and pedals because you can walk in them. Both my shoes and pedals are designed for long distance riding- and while you can walk, the sole does not flex very much. You can't run in them and need to be careful when walking. The other major style shoe/pedal system is called Look and you have a much harder time walking in those shoes. It is possible to purchase snap on covers for Look shoes that make it easier to walk in them. However, you see a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; of these covers lying on the ground during Ragbrai- they fall off Look shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final note on walking- don't assume a long ride is going to be done entirely on your bike. Forget about bike failures and walking your bike- what about bathroom stops? What about food stops? What about water? Unless you have some giant support team you are going to do a fair amount of walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastEditorUserId="5360" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T19:47:13.433" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T19:47:13.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18948" CreationDate="2014-01-14T14:16:36.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it happen in all gears?  Or in just some of them?  When I had this problem it was due to chainring wear (check if the cogs are flat on the top, or worn sharp - if they're sharp, the chain can slip from them.)  If that's the case, you'll have to replace the chainrings - a bike shop will advise.  If they're not worn, try degreasing then oiling the chain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T14:16:36.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18957" CreationDate="2014-01-14T19:31:14.437" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly, you certainly &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; use clipless over long distances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, scientific studies have actually shown that &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/14073/4239&quot;&gt;clipless pedals offer no discernible performance advantages over long distances&lt;/a&gt;. They have shown that a small advantage can be gained on sprints, but that's about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, many cyclists do report increased comfort and/or reduction in pain when switching to clipless pedals. Some (yours truly) have the opposite experience. It simply depends on your anatomy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, there are a lot of arguments for clipless and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=45&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some against&lt;/a&gt; them, but not enough evidence to be compelling one way or the other. I'd say go ahead and give 'em a shot. The worst case scenario is that you put the shoes and pedals on ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T19:31:14.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18835" CreationDate="2014-01-14T22:44:54.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get an adjustable wrench and a small piece of cardboard. Smash the cardboard as flat as you can and fold it over the bead of the rim- this keeps the wrench from gouging the aluminum rim. Adjust the adjustable wrench down as far as you can while still able to slide it over the cardboard that's protecting the rim. Now, very gently torque the dent back straight with the wrench- it won't take much effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will work for small deformations only. If you see any further indication of damage after doing this, such as a crack in the rim, don't ride it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T22:44:54.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-14T22:49:52.877" Score="0" ViewCount="2920" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about getting a new fixie but wonder what size rims I should get. I've heard that deep v wheels are easier to handle then just the standard rim size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8976" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T00:19:01.797" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T08:01:26.867" Title="Is deep v wheels safer then the standard fixie rims" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18981" CreationDate="2014-01-15T02:00:11.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The consensus opinion (for typical road use) seems to be Deep V's, apart from being best for showing off cool colors and looking good, have no advantage over other rims. Some people report they are stronger - break spokes and go out of true less often, although I cannot find a scientific study to confirm this. What I have read, people have replaced old, worn out, cheap wheels with new higher quality deep V rims, and then claim the Deep V's made the difference. The reality appears to be the new and better quality made the difference, not the deep V. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found no evidence that Deep V's improve handling, to the contrary, there are many reports of Deep V's making the bike harder to handle in cross winds - presumably due to the larger cross section of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not a big surprise that Deep V's and Fixes are commonly seen together - they are both products with more disadvantages than advantages for an average cyclist, promoted with evangelical enthusiasm by a few and ignored by most. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T02:00:11.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19024" CreationDate="2014-01-15T03:53:26.380" Score="5" ViewCount="4315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was persuaded to switch to race SPD-SL pedals after losing the old MTB pedals to theft (along with the bike!). They're one-sided, though, unlike the MTB pedals, and I find that coming off of a red light full stop, I either pop my down foot right into the pedal, or I miss and have to toe it across the intersection while trying to get the cleat in. It's too dangerous to look down and watch the pedal when this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a strategy that makes this easier and more consistent (and therefore safer)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T19:52:15.343" Title="How to nail clipping into race pedals without looking?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2014-01-15T04:22:44.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way is to practice, practice, practice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do it enough times and it'll become second nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was first starting with my road pedals (Keos, but they're pretty similar) I would push my shin against them after setting off to steady them before trying to clip in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T04:22:44.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2014-01-15T04:42:26.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practice is pretty much all you can do. If you had regular SPD, they make two sided pedals, which solves some problems (this is probably what I'd use if I wasn't on Look [because I got the pedals for free...] already), but this may require changing your shoes (or Shimano SM-SH40 like adapters) and will require new pedals. I don't see the point in SPD-SL over SPD for most riders. There are SPD+SPD-SL compatible shoes though, but typically these aren't good for walking in, so if you have to walk a decent amount in the shoes, switching to SPD may be a good idea. In any case, you'll need to practice if you aren't used to clipless pedals. Note that the adapters for 3 hole to 2 hole will make it harder to walk, so if you choose to switch to regular SPD with a 2 sided pedal (or a 1 side platform, 1 side SPD which is OK for transitional periods but you do end up with the wrong side to some extent a decent amount of time). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are you racing, or did you just buy race pedals? If you're not racing, I don't see the point to owning the SPD-SL in the first place (much like owning a race bike for commuting). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T04:42:26.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18981" CreationDate="2014-01-15T08:01:26.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fixie started out with Mavic CXP33 (&quot;normal&quot;) rims. At some point I switched to Rigida DP18 rims on the same hubs. The reasons for switching were mostly style-related. The DP18's are not really &quot;Deep V&quot;, but a lot deeper than the CXP33.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subjectively, the CXP33 were weaker, i.e. went out-of-true more often, but a cursory google'ing showed that these rims seemed to be weak even compared to other &quot;normal&quot; rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't notice any difference in handling, but that's not really surprising as my fixie is my commuting bike and the cities I lived in all had a lot of traffic lights, so building up high speeds was nearly impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having built a couple of wheels, I suspect building a wheel with Deep Vs and large-flange hubs really is a PITA. If using traditional three-cross lacing, the spoke-to-flange angles will probably be problematic, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T08:01:26.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2014-01-15T09:10:16.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take some time when you're not in traffic to have a look at the way the pedal hangs naturally, when you're unclipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, my one-sided Shimano SPD-road pedals always hang cleat-side down. So to clip in without looking, I put my toe underneath and roll up from the back, staying in contact with the pedal the whole time. This doesn't always work, but it's more reliable than guessing and stamping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take extra care in the rain as I find the (metal) non-cleat side of the pedal can be very slippery when wet. I've learnt through painful experience that staying seated until cleated is best!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T09:10:16.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18957" CreationDate="2014-01-15T11:44:32.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can absolutely ride long distances in clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are countless examples of this - at the extreme, look at any picture of a Race Across America participant, there is a very strong chance are they will be using clipless pedals of some kind (RAAM being a 4800km race, completed solo in less than 8 days by the winners..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedals are essentially ubiquitous in modern cycling, from &quot;recreational&quot; level up to madness like the aforementioned Race Across America.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is vitally important to have the bike properly setup for you (&quot;bike fit&quot;), a major part of this being the pedals+cleats. Like all adjustments, you should be careful to slowly adapt to the new setup (i.e don't attaching the pedals and going straight out on a 1000km ride!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am informed that I can increase speed wearing clipless pedals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14059/are-there-any-scientific-studies-proving-the-benefits-of-clipless-pedal-systems&quot;&gt;is more debatable&lt;/a&gt; - clipless pedals don't necessarily make you faster, but they do have other benefits - e.g keeping the feet in the ideal position (potentially avoiding knee injuries etc), preventing your feet from slipping off the pedals (e.g in the rain, going over a pothole)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T11:44:32.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18992" CreationDate="2014-01-15T13:20:26.270" Score="4" ViewCount="5747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to purchase a spare pin for my Shimano Ultegra 10 speed chain.  Looking around I can only see 11 speed pins for sale.  Can I put these into a 10 speed chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="106" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T14:45:15.717" Title="Can you use Shimano 11 speed chain pins on a 10 speed chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18990" CreationDate="2014-01-15T13:31:09.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the 11 speed chain is narrower, the connection pin will be narrower than for a 10 speed. While it might work, I certainly wouldn't recommend it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do is use a SRAM &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/road/technologies/powerlock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;powerlock&lt;/a&gt; designed for 10 speed applications. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastEditorUserId="8930" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T14:39:27.463" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T14:39:27.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18990" CreationDate="2014-01-15T13:34:33.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the chain pins for Shimano 10-speed chains are 6.0mm in length and the pins for the 11-speed chains are 5.8mm in length. That is pretty close, but I wouldn't chance it. I also don't know for sure if the pin diameter is the same and I don't have an 11-speed pin to measure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=shimano%2011%20speed%20chain%20pin&amp;amp;oq=shimano%2011%20speed%20chain%20pin&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.10515j0j8&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;espv=210&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=shimano%2010%20speed%20chain%20pin&amp;amp;tbm=shop&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;google search&lt;/a&gt; turns up many places where you can purchase the 10-speed pins. Even better - I have to believe that nearly every local bike shop in your area would carry 10-speed compatible pins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T13:34:33.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18994" CreationDate="2014-01-15T14:38:42.887" Score="6" ViewCount="13795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a modern bike (ridgeback meteor '13) and It currently has a 21 speed shimano chainset. &#xA;I find that going down hills (which I do a lot) and on flats I need a higher gear. &#xA;Can I do anything to get a higher gear ratio (such as a bigger large chainring) or am I already at the top?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spec:&#xA;48/38/28 Chainrings&#xA;12-32 (7 Speed) Cassette:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T20:07:35.697" Title="Can I increase my highest gear ratio?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18993" CreationDate="2014-01-15T14:58:18.403" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably can't fit a bigger front chainring on that bike due to the front derailleur and chain issues. They do make 11 toothed 7 speed cassettes which you can install (but I doubt you'll gain anything from it due to the second point I want to make on cadence), which will give you a bit higher gearing but the spacing between the cogs (i.e. the number of teeth) will be worse. Note that a higher gear ratio isn't always advisable, since you need to remain in control of the bike at speed as well (there isn't really engine braking, like there is on a car, in a derailleur system). Also, if you're commuting, you don't want to be going so fast that you get drenched in sweat when you get to your destination, so speed isn't everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, chances are you need to increase your cadence: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&lt;/a&gt; says that at a 60 rpm cadence, you should be doing 19-20 mph in the 48t front, 12t back combo, which should be enough (the 700cx37 tires aren't on his calculator, but 35 and 38 are close enough). Your cadence might change if you're in an improper riding position (e.g. seat too high/low or weird handlebar positions). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The tire size on this bike should be 700c x 42. But the point still stands (the speeds should be slightly higher at the given cadence, since increasing the tire size also increases the gearing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also make sure your bike is tuned up (you may feel sluggish if your hubs are due for a repacking or your brakes are dragging on the rims or your tire pressure is too low, for example). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your cadence is already sufficiently high for some reason, time to get a road bike then (which will probably be lighter and more aerodynamic and have higher gearing (both at the bottom and top end)). Note that there will be a geometry change, even if you go with a flat bar road bike, probably, so if you choose to go this route, make sure to get fit. What you've got is a pretty heavy (~30 lbs, which is fine for its intended purpose) and cheap hybrid which is designed to be a commuter - it isn't really worth pumping money into it to improve it, but only to fix the things which are broken and add things useful for commuting, such as lights or switching to slick tires (which you presumably already have). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T19:46:54.730" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T19:46:54.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18993" CreationDate="2014-01-15T15:51:10.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are chainrings going up to 56 widely available - So long as they share the same bolt circle diameter I don't see any reason why you couldn't swap out your biggest chainring (I stand ready to be corrected though).  They don't even /have/ to be the same make, although it looks a bit bodged if they arn't.  You should check the specs for your front derailleur to see what max/min chainring sizes it can cope with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T15:51:10.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18993" CreationDate="2014-01-15T18:09:15.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;48/12 is actually a fairly large gear, especially since your bike has 700c wheels, the same as a road bike.  53/11 is the largest gear combination on a typical road racing bike, even on many road bikes ridden by elite racers at race speeds (e.g. 45-50km/h for an hour on time trials, or 60-70+ km/h for sprints).  That's only 20% higher than your highest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing you're riding at quite a low cadence: probably 55-65rpm.  90rpm is a typical target cadence for road riders. If you can get your cadence up even a little bit to 70rpm or more your problem should be solved.  I notice in your other comment you mention that you are spinning as fast as you can at 20-25mph.  If you're feeling like you're spinning out the top gear at that speed, I suspect that your pedal stroke is a little rough: if you have a smoother, more circular stroke, you should be able to spin at a much higher cadence without it feeling out of control.  This is easier to achieve if your feet are clipped in, but definitely possible to improve even with platform pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle you could can get a roughly 10% increase in your top gear by either changing your front crankset or your rear cassette (assuming compatible components exist). Increasing cadence, however, doesn't require any component changes, will be more efficient and less tiring, and will be easier on your knees if you're doing a lot of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastEditorUserId="8307" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T21:31:57.627" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T21:31:57.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18998" CreationDate="2014-01-15T20:51:38.960" Score="8" ViewCount="13504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a Shimano hub dynamo, but I'm encountering problems getting a bike shop to commit to installing it for me if I buy it. So I have a couple questions that I'm hoping some of you guys might be able to help me out with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can a wheel be rebuilt replacing the old regular hub with the dynamo?  Or does this require a new wheel to be built?  (I've heard once that it's difficult to rebuild a wheel with a rim that has already been built before).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you can rebuild a wheel, and the hub is a bit larger in diameter than the old hub, do the spokes need to be replaced/shortened, or can they be still be used?  Is there some guideline or rule of thumb about the length of a spoke as long as they're all consistent?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the installation of a hub dynamo the same as a standard hub?  I know that the hub has a lot of moving parts inside, but it seems no different on the outside, and I wonder if there are special steps or considerations when installing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate any info anyone can give me!  I feel like these bicycle shops have simply never had any experience with a hub dynamo and their first reaction is just &quot;no&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: As a side question, does anyone have any experience with wheel building?  Is this a straightforward process?  This is something I wouldn't mind learning how to do.  Is this the kind of task where you can destroy a wheel or two in the learning process, or will I just need spend more time adjusting to get it right as I learn? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9040" LastEditorUserId="9040" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T21:38:03.700" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T21:38:03.700" Title="How do you install a hub dynamo?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18997" CreationDate="2014-01-15T21:06:23.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Briefly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) yes, you can re-use the existing rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) yes, you could shorten the existing spokes, but that would be expensive and foolish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) The installation is the same except now you have wires so you need to plug them into the hub too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue is (2). Spokes are usually only reused when the rim is being replaced with an identical rim (usually a new one for a worn one), and even then most wheelbuilders will prefer new spokes. Spokes bend a little as they're built into the wheel, and getting those bends in exactly the right place when you rebuild the wheel is effectively impossible. So you'll build the wheel, ride it a little, the spokes will bend back and you'll have to re-tension everything. Usually more than once. If you're paying someone to do this it's cheaper to just buy new spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible to shorten spokes, there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.philwood.com/products/tools/spokemach.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spoke cutting&lt;/a&gt; tools for this. They're normally used to make really short spokes (for putting a dyno hub into a 16&quot; wheel, for example) but these days it's possible to buy spokes online in almost any size. But you could sit there and shorten all the spokes in your wheel. But again, if you're paying someone else to do this for you it will be more expensive than a new set of spokes. The tool is also much more expensive than a set of spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your rim is in good condition that's the bit to keep. If it is worthwhile, you may be better off selling the whole wheel and buying a new rim anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T21:06:23.590" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19001" CreationDate="2014-01-15T22:55:34.247" Score="3" ViewCount="2283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping around for a new set of handlebars, I want to give trekking bars (aka butterfly bars) a try.  They're reasonably cheap so I'm willing to dive in as an experiment.  I'm wondering though, mountain bike handlebars have a greater diameter than road bike bars do from what I read.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned whether or not a new set of handlebars I buy will fit in the handlebar stem of my bike frame properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps anyone, I have a windsor tourist touring bicycle, and the handlebars I'm looking at are &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004UMC110&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9040" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T15:11:14.687" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T15:11:14.687" Title="Does the diameter difference between road and mountain bike handlebars make some bikes incompatible?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19000" CreationDate="2014-01-15T23:17:55.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeman.com/bicycle-repair-tech-info/bikeman-tech-info/1637-handlebar-diameters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; are good links to look at for the dimensions associated with handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, you have to worry about where the stem clamps on, as well as the rest of the bar (where your brake levers &amp;amp; shifters are attached, that is, the grip area) - thus, there are &lt;strong&gt;two&lt;/strong&gt; diameters. The clamp is usually 1 inch for most bikes now (contrary to the first link), but they can differ (older road and MTB bars often use different clamp sizes). Most MTB type components (riser, flat, butterfly, etc.) have a 7/8&quot; rest of the bar while most drop bars (excluding the Walmart ones) are 15/16&quot;. So, you can't clamp road shifters/brakes to MTB bars and vice versa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize the relevant measurements and their applications, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-handlebars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Handlebar Crib Sheet&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the clamp is right (25.4 mm), but the rest of the bar is 7/8&quot;. Your shifters are designed for 15/16&quot; bars. This means new shifters (probably thumb shifters or trigger shifters) and brake levers if you switch to this bar, since you can't really bend STI levers to fit. Also, even if you did manage to get them mounted (with some small shimming or something), the shifting action would be pretty unnatural. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use trekking bars, I'd probably go with thumb shifters and some short pull brake levers. Note that if you choose to use trigger shifters, they have to be from the Shimano road group (i.e. the Sora flat bar shifters) due to the different cable pull of the road front derailleurs and mountain front derailleurs. Alternatively, you could try a mountain front derailleur with possibly a different crankset (50T/52T rings are big) and use any Shimano mountain bike shifter set, or grip shifts like the SRAM Attack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T15:10:18.513" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T15:10:18.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9267" CreationDate="2014-01-16T01:24:56.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All these are passive masks and the lungs' muscles need to exert extra work to overcome the resistance to ar flow by the filer.  Would recommend the active respirator like www.ecbreathe.com -This ECBreathe uses battery power to help overcome the resstance and yo can breathe normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9043" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T01:24:56.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2014-01-16T03:34:31.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Topeak has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/bags/mtxofficebag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;laptop bag called an MTX Office Bag&lt;/a&gt; that attaches to the MTX racks and lays flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/usy8H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is said to accept a 17&quot; laptop so yours should fit in great and given how thin they are, you should have room for a change of clothes.  You might be able to use a padded sleeve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to put my older 15.6&quot; Dell 131L in my Topeak DXP pannier and it fit, but not much room for other things.  However, I recommend getting a padded sleeve, and with mine it would stick out an inch or two and really no room for anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bags are pretty good about keeping stuff dry on short commutes (30 min) unless it rains really heavy (and then it was the bottoms of the pannier due to tire spray), but a large locking freezer bag will do the trick nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="1789" LastEditDate="2014-03-12T06:12:10.077" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T06:12:10.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-16T04:24:07.817" Score="3" ViewCount="9665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a 5'8&quot; tall female. Which hybrid or fitness style frame size would most likely fit me better, 17&quot; or 19?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9045" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T20:11:33.147" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T20:11:33.147" Title="Picking the appropriate hybrid bike frame size" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19004" CreationDate="2014-01-16T04:49:14.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends highly on the particular model of the bike (which is due to factors like (effective) top tube length, bottom bracket height, wheel size, standover height, etc.) and your individual geometry (inseam, upper body length, arm length, leg length) and riding style (upright, prone, etc.) - the numbers don't really mean anything out of context. Even in the same class of bikes, you may go for different sizes (for example, sizing for a Specialized Sirrus may be different than for a Trek 7.4 fx (essentially flat bar road bikes). And if you listen to the marketing people, things like the specialized tricross/awol and trek crossrip are also fitness bikes (but are essentially drop bar commuter cyclocross bikes - totally different geometry). There are also bikes with hardtail mountain bike influenced geometries, such as the Trek 8.3 ds and Specialized Crosstrail. Even if you go with similar bikes (like the Trek 7._ fx series and Specialized Sirrus series), there are geometry changes which are important (like effective top tube length) for a given size. On top of that, a lot of frames come in women's geometries (marked WSD or similar or given a different model number, like the Specialized Vita being a variation of their Sirrus line for women), which don't necessarily size with their normal counterparts. The results also certainly don't carry over for different styles of riding (and thus, different styles of hybrid/fitness bikes) (my commuter, an old rigid MTB isn't the same size as my road bike, an 80s Panasonic). For example, I have a bike which is a size larger than most people of my height due to my relatively long arms and legs. Due to the number of variables, its hard (impossible?) to size a bike over the internet unless you have had a bike fit and know enough about bike geometries and your riding style and your geometry to make an educated guess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should go to your local bike shop and ask for a bike fitting to determine the appropriate style frame and setup for the bike, and make sure to take it out on a decent test ride. They will take some measurements, plug it into a formula and get some way to set the bike (the formulas are guidelines which work for most people - they aren't exactly science). Then, they'll tweak it until it works for you. You may need to swap out things like stems or saddles or stuff on a correct sized frame (there may be more than one size which can be made to fit) in order to get it working properly. On top of that, there are a lot of &quot;women's geometry&quot; parts and frames which are purported to fit women riders better. You may want to mix and match these parts to a regular frame or vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot afford a bike fit (they cost some money, and take a few hours), there are some videos on youtube you can look up (but really, they will not substitute for testing the bike or a good bike fit). Usually, they'll at least get you set up with a guesstimate on something that works though, for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following links are good reading:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coloradocyclist.com/BikeFit/index.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.coloradocyclist.com/BikeFit/index.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/kops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/kops.html&lt;/a&gt; (Watch out for this if you're watching youtube)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T14:38:06.310" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T14:38:06.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19004" CreationDate="2014-01-16T04:50:03.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably 17&quot; but it depends on more than your height.  More important is your inseam and your reach.  You could be 5'8&quot; and have very long legs in which case you probably want a 19&quot;, or you could be 5'8&quot; with short legs and a long torso in which case you probably want a 17&quot;.  The best bet, as always, is to go to a bike shop that will do a proper fit testing and let you try some different sizes.  The right size is the bike that's most comfortable for you and there's really no way for anyone on the internet to tell you what that is based on your height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T04:50:03.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15813" CreationDate="2014-01-16T08:13:25.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;BBB makes several very light plastic pedals which work well .I think one is called Trek and there are several very similar in appearance in 2013.The standard weight is about 250g per pair but this can be reduced to about 220g per pair by taking out the fairly large reflectors and drilling out some of the surplus plastic with a 4mm drill. They work well and are very cheap too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9047" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T20:10:16.867" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T20:10:16.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19011" CreationDate="2014-01-16T11:02:38.603" Score="8" ViewCount="1519" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have noticed the following. When doing extremely tight turns e.g. 90 degree trail turn, I tend to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get out of my high saddle, position in front of it and low over the top tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stick the inside foot out, a couple of inches over the ground (easier on concrete, because it is smooth).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always thought of cornering as a trade-off between speed and safety. So doing the above, I feel safer, and am thus able to pass at a little more than walking speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of two things can happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because my center of gravity is now lower, the bike is tilted, and virtually all my weight is on the outside pedal, I make the turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because I have entered the turn at too high speed, one or both tires begin slipping. I &quot;fall&quot; onto my foot, stepping firmly. As now all my weight is on the foot, I can &quot;pick up&quot; the bike and swing it around me in a crazy tight turn, then jump on it, while still moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When is this appropriate technique and when would it be disaster?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the correct procedure for executing a planned foot plant?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I tried this on the trail a couple of times, my opinion is that planting foot is very different on smooth pavement and in rough terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On smooth, but slippery pavement/ice, I can plant the foot momentarily, knowing that I &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; fall/slide out. The resulting acrobatic maneuver seems to increase the maximum possible speed in situations where no other technique would be appropriate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a pity that I don't have a picture of the place this thing is helping me. Basically, it is a part of my commute, and is a steep-ish ramp, with two 90 degree turns, which in winter is wet, snowy or icy. As I &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/18550/3927&quot;&gt;need to stay upright&lt;/a&gt;, this technique is pretty much all that can be done on those corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, planting a foot while going down the trail is radically different. This is because on smooth surface, on can put their foot out, parallel to the ground, and very close to it, so as to anticipate slide-off. On an off-road terrain this is not possible and dabbing seems to be confined to &quot;free get out of jail&quot; functionality when you realize the &quot;oh shit!&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;strong&gt;Tyler Jandreau&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Aaron&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T04:05:57.223" Title="Planting a foot when cornering: when and how?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19008" CreationDate="2014-01-16T13:56:12.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inside foot is your &quot;get out of jail free&quot; card when it comes to the limit of traction. You'll see a lot of racers do this when they're riding at the limit of their grip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the inside foot if the front of your bike starts sliding out to &quot;prop yourself up&quot;. If the rear starts sliding you can use the inside foot to push yourself back to put more weight over the rear tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This approach can be used if the corner is really tight as well, which it seems like you're doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the long and the short: use a foot whenever you need it. It's not the most efficient way to corner, but in mud/rain/gravel/snow you can actually ride faster with a foot dragging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T13:56:12.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19004" CreationDate="2014-01-16T14:58:33.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not that complicated.  Stand over the top tube of the bike you are interested in with both feet on flat ground.  If you have about an inch of clearance, that bike should fit you fine -- then its just a matter of adjusting seat and handlebar height and maybe riding a few different bikes that &quot;fit&quot; like this to see which one feels better to you.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8971" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T14:58:33.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19008" CreationDate="2014-01-16T15:22:24.610" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a &quot;dab&quot; isn't exactly the most graceful of techniques it's useful to save yourself from a spill or wipeout. What you need to ask yourself though is whether you leave a foot out because you're not sure what's going to happen when you turn or because you plan on going fast enough to slide around the turn. Sometimes the slide is unexpected and should just quick plant a foot and move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you're going to get a bunch of trail builders and riders who say that &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; slide is unwarranted and damages the trail. Generally this is true, but hardpack trails with dust on top or a little gravel are very easy to slide on and don't damage the trail at all. Mud, loam, and other loose soils are more prone to being disturbed by excessive sliding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the proper technique for a dab, it's very dependent on your riding style. Here's a general breakdown of the timeline for a turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;See the turn&lt;/strong&gt;: Look ahead and see a tight/loose corner. Begin evaluating how you want to take it (eg. at speed, slow and upright, or sliding).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Begin the turn&lt;/strong&gt;: Lean the bike towards the inside of the turn, pushing your weight to the outside pedal. Keep your inside foot relatively light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Back tire breaks loose&lt;/strong&gt;: Knowing when this will happen requires experience with your tires, so practice sliding in a parking lot or gravel road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plant foot&lt;/strong&gt;: Remove your inside foot and place it slightly ahead of where you currently are, in the direction your moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Push through the turn:&lt;/strong&gt; Push a bit with the inside foot, kind of a cross between a kick and step. This should keep your bike position or possibly move you a little more upright.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Re-engage and continue:&lt;/strong&gt; Plant your foot back on the pedal and pedal out of the corner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's more-or-less how it's done. Watch a bunch of Trail/AM/DH riders do it and you'll get a sense of where in the turn you should expect a plant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last bit, as you get more confident riding push more speed into the corner. You'll find that some spots where you previously needed to dab, you'll clear no problem due to the added force keeping your tires in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T15:22:24.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18993" CreationDate="2014-01-16T15:25:01.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're happy at the cadence you might find some benefit to changing the smallest sprocket to 11, I've got an 8-speed cassette with 11 then IIRC 13, half this step would be noticeable in terms of how fast before spinning out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with only marginally more gearing than you (and similar tyres, 700c x35, also platform pedals), I don't feel like I'm spinning out in top below about 30mph (which I've never quite managed to hit without a boost from a hill).  I thought my cadence was quite low, so you might want to compare your gps logs or similar to something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_speed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_speed&lt;/a&gt; and work out your cadence and whether you should be paying attention to that first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T15:25:01.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2014-01-16T15:33:53.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a top bag for even a small laptop will be tricky - a shame really because the top section of the all-in-one touring pannier towers would be plenty big enough so it's not impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/altura-urban-dryline-15-inch-briefcase-pannier/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Altura laptop pannier&lt;/a&gt; set well back (there's some adjustment).  I've got big feet (and a big bike) and my heel doesn't hit it (platform pedals).  The cheap big pannier (something like £8 on ebay including postage) does get in the way of my other foot if I'm not very careful how I fit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this is meant for big laptops my 11&quot; netbook fits sideways leaving lots of room for other stuff (a full change of clothes is easy, smart shoes rather more awkward to get in)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rack is a topeak, and there's a little bit of tilt adjustment when you fit the rack to the bike, allowing you to gain another tiny bit of margin if you're worried&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went through a puddle that was almost up to my bb the other day,feet were wet, pannier contents dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T15:33:53.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-16T17:50:22.580" Score="6" ViewCount="20377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a diagram on how to reassemble a Shimano Alivio Shifter.  I just can't seem to get it right. I even disassembled the other shifter to see how it all fits together and now I can't get it assembled again either!  A diagram or instruction manual will help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9052" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T20:09:05.610" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T19:18:54.507" Title="How to reassemble a Shimano Alivio Shifter" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18957" CreationDate="2014-01-16T19:06:08.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like some of the other answerers, I have used clipless pedals over long distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have both Look pedals and SPD pedals, with the Look pedals, I have taken part in Audax UK events with distances of up to 400km in a 24 hour session, some of the rides being longer than this, but spread over several days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One I remember well was a 300km ride (187.5 miles) completed in around 20 hours using Look pedals. I was comfortable, more so than trying to ride a similar distance with toe clips and straps, although walking was a little difficult (and slightly comical) at the Café stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now tend to use my SPD pedals a lot more, as the shoes are a lot easier to walk in, having an inset cleat and a &quot;proper&quot; sole. I use these in combination with SPD pedals with a proper cage around them for more support, similar to the Shimano M424 Clipless SPD Pedals but a lot older, and find these are more than adequate for rides of up to 200km. Anything longer and I will swap back to using Look pedals, as the shoe sole is a lot stiffer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3511" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T19:06:08.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-16T22:28:05.710" Score="5" ViewCount="4272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a position where bringing my bike into the apartment is my best option at the moment.  However, it is possible for metal edges of the bike pedals to catch the wooden edges of doorways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To prevent damage, I'm looking for some sort of rubber bumper to put on the bike pedals, or else find bike pedals with rubberised outer surfaces to avoid damaging things they bump into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone found such pedals or bumpers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8513" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T17:53:18.540" Title="Do rubber bike pedals or rubber pedal covers exist?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19016" CreationDate="2014-01-16T23:48:31.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A short length of foam pipe insulation should do the job.  It's cheap, will fit into your pocket, and you can get it at any hardware store or plumbing supply shop.  You could also slide it onto your top, down, or seat tube for storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oxjQq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose the size based on the type of pedals you use.  Platform pedals will require a larger diameter and clipless pedals a smaller diameter.  You want it big enough so you can easily slide it over the pedal but small enough that it stays put.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T23:39:55.427" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T23:39:55.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19016" CreationDate="2014-01-17T04:19:26.147" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of platform pedals are made of plastics which won't scratch things, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=42731&amp;amp;category=114&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one.&lt;/a&gt; They're pretty much available everywhere for about 10 dollars, though a clear one will pretty much just transfer dirt if it hits. You can also put some duct tape or electrical tape or something over the edges of the pedal (this should essentially be free). Note that certain tapes may leave some residue if they do rub. There are also slightly odd platform pedals which seem to be promising like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/product/pc2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ergon PC2&lt;/a&gt;, though I haven't used one .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is folding pedals, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://sunlitecycling.com/product_detail.php?short_code=Folding&amp;amp;cl1=PEDALS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one, by Sunlite&lt;/a&gt; (these are the cheapest ones available AFAIK, at around 20 dollars). Typically, you push/pull some tabs, pull the pedal out a bit and can fold the pedal up. These are often used for folding bicycles, and should essentially eliminate the problem (provided you buy a quality folding pedal, as if somethings going to go on the pedal, it will be the folding mechanism). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another option is to use a small clipless pedal, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankbrothers.com/pedals_eggbeater.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crank Brothers Eggbeaters&lt;/a&gt; (the cheapest clipless pedals are around 50 dollars). They're small but you'll need to get special shoes - some SPD shoes (probably another 75 dollars or so) are okay for walking in. Other pedals have a bit of platform, which you may or may not like, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crankbrothers.com/pedals_candy3.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crank Brothers Candy&lt;/a&gt;. Of course, if the platform is too big, it doesn't really cure the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T02:32:12.853" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T02:32:12.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15813" CreationDate="2014-01-17T05:55:31.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may well know this already, but if you're cycling in street shoes, the style of shoe you wear makes a difference to the kind of pedal you'll put up with. This matters most with thin-soled shoes (e.g. dress shoes, any gender) and very soft-soled/bendy shoes. If you wear clogs, or sneakers/trainers, or thick-soled Keens, or real cycling shoes? Honestly, you have more choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to wear soft-soled shoes (because Whiny Princess Feet, trust me, you don't want to know). I had VO City Pedals on my bike, which have the same squarish crenellations as the VO Touring pedals pictured above, and those just bit into my soles until I could stand it no more, especially with their relatively small size making them hit my arches rather than the tougher ball of my foot...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... whereupon I bought MKS Lambda pedals that I love to bits and pieces; the larger contact area suits me great, and the roundish bas-relief grippy bits don't cause me pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moral of the story: test pedals with the shoes you'll ride in -- ALL the shoes you'll ride in, preferably. It may mean you compromise a bit, but that's livable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T05:55:31.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-17T08:47:31.313" Score="2" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Raliegh falcon touring frame, which I've been upgrading gradually as it's in good nick, putting modern componants on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got to the point where the next thing I need to do is upgrade from down tube shifters, ideally to combined brake/shifters.  I've got a triple chainring on the front (sora) and 6 speed on the back, with 27 x 1 1/4inch wheels. The rear shifter is indexed, whilst the front is not.  I'm aware I'll probably have to install a new rear derallier at the least.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have two questions.  Can I get any more gears on the back?  Do they make 7speed rear cassettes for older bikes?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And secondly, looking at sheldon browns website, the Campagnolo &quot;Ergo&quot; set would let me keep the front unindexed -am I correct?  And is the rear shifter modfiable to a 6speed, if I can't upgrade the rear cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T21:02:16.020" Title="Upgrading Bicycle Gearing" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-17T14:05:00.087" Score="0" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a case to mount my android as a GPS device.  I find that a lot of cases require attaching off centre (thus taking unecessary handlebar space), or have very bulky clips that don't fit around the stem, (and anyway, I like to have my cyclecomputer on the stem) or on the top bar, which often obstruct my legs or gets knocked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen a mobile phone case which attaches like the Garmin out front system? (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Garmin-Out-front-Bike-Mount-Edge/dp/B0096855IO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Garmin-Out-front-Bike-Mount-Edge/dp/B0096855IO&lt;/a&gt;) which looks like it'd do a good job of keeping the GPS at the right position for reading, without obstructing the operation of the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Nexus 4, weather proofing needed! (thanks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastEditorUserId="9031" LastEditDate="2014-01-17T15:01:09.890" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T15:48:36.477" Title="Out front attatchment for mobile phones/GPS" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;android&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19016" CreationDate="2014-01-17T16:00:53.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short. Yes they do. Finding them may be hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the end of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/15817/3140&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T16:00:53.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2014-01-17T17:22:52.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timbuk2.com/tb2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Timbuk2&lt;/a&gt; messenger bag for couple years now in DC area sweaty climate and very happy with it. It built for last and have lot of special commuter features making it best commuter bug I can find for myself. You can order custom colors and features also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastEditorUserId="5932" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T11:01:05.913" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T11:01:05.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2014-01-17T23:27:31.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When stopped, you'll tend to always put the same foot down and leave one clipped.  For me, I unclip my left foot.  And in preparation to take off, my right foot and pedal are just over the top of the pedal stroke to get the maximum push when I launch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catch, at least for me, is to get my left foot off the ground ASAP and get in contact with the pedal before the left pedal comes up over the top of the pedal stroke.  Up until that point, the heavier back end of the pedal should be hanging below and slightly behind the spindle.  And if you can get your foot up to the left pedal before the down-stroke, where the heavier back end of the pedal starts wanting to swing over the top, and around and around, it's just a matter of sliding your cleat over the spindle and down into clip position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this obviously means gear choice is a big deal when stopping.  If you have it in too easy of a gear, there's no way you'll be able to get your foot off the ground onto the pedal before it's on the down-stroke.  On the other side, if you're in too hard of a gear, you may not get enough momentum with the first push to go anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6426" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T23:27:31.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19026" CreationDate="2014-01-18T02:21:47.617" Score="4" ViewCount="28858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently damaged my front mech, a Shimano Acera, top swing, bottom pull, triple chainring. The rear cassette is 8-speed. So I need to replace this front mech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original Shimano Acera is probably circa 2002 so I will likely not get a direct replacement, and in any case it was a bit cheap and nasty and I'd rather go with something a bit more &quot;beefy&quot;. I'm thinking of something like Deore XT, but I can't find a model that says it is compatible with a 3x8 drive train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The options are a bit bewildering. Can someone suggest a part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4690" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T05:41:13.227" Title="What are my options for replacing/upgrading my MTB front mech?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19025" CreationDate="2014-01-18T04:47:20.873" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rear derailleurs don't care whats up in front and vice versa. Rear derailleurs don't care about the number of cogs in the back, but front derailleurs care about the number of chain rings (you can get a triple derailleur to play nice with a double chainring, but you should probably get the right part to begin with). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speeds are mostly &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;marketing&lt;/a&gt; though, as higher speed chains are narrower than lower speed chains (the only times speeds matter are in chain selection (too little speeds and the chain may be too fat), cassette (duh) and if you're using indexed shifters the shifters need to be matched to the speeds (and the appropriate cable pulls of the derailleurs)) - everywhere else, if the chain fits, it should work. For example, if you put an 8 speed chain in a FD designed for a 10 speed derailleur, it will probably rub but if you put a 9 speed chain in an 8 speed system, everything should be fine. However, using a &quot;9 speed&quot; front derailleur with an 8 speed system is fine (a 7 or 8 speed FD would work fine too). The only thing that matters is how much cable the shifters need to pull, and where the derailleur is mounted (top pull, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you need to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cable pull (In this case, you need a Shimano mountain front derailleur, not a road FD (else, index shifting won't work). Also, top pull (though your derailleur will probably be dual pull - this is dependent how the frame was designed to pull the cable). )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double or Triple compatibility (In this case, triple - the cages are shaped differently)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Size of largest chain ring, and gaps in sizes to other chain rings (The cages are shaped to clear the largest chain ring, so if its too big or small, the cage won't position properly for good shifting. If the gaps are too big, you'll have trouble shifting between them (If you didn't customize your chainrings, chances are you're fine).)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounting (Diameter of seat tube mounting point or if you have another type of mount, that. Also, top swing. If you can't mount it, you can't use it. )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain slope (Chainstay angle - If you have the wrong one, the chain might hit the cage no matter how you adjust it.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these things are specified in the data sheet for the derailleur models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, you don't need to be spendy on the front derailleur (especially if you were running acera before) - I doubt you'd gain anything from doing so, other than something slightly prettier and a bit lighter of a wallet. Chances are that getting the FD set up properly (good cable routing, cables in good condition, positioning and adjustments done properly) even if its a cheap one (which I do suggest, the Shimano Tourney) is a better spend of money than just slapping an expensive FD like a Deore one on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap option is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp?ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051870&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano Tourney&lt;/a&gt; front derailleur. This is what I'd probably go for provided your crankset is within spec, but you can choose any &quot;7 speed&quot;, &quot;8 speed&quot; or &quot;9 speed&quot; Shimano mountain bike derailleur which is top swing, dual/bottom pull which fits the appropriate criteria above. You can probably run into your LBS and get them to give you the right Tourney FD for under 15 dollars. They may have a 7, 8 or 9 speed Alivio/Acera one laying around at the same price as well, so you could grab that instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;, as usual, has a better description than I do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the model of the Acera FD you have right now, and what is your crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T05:41:13.227" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T05:41:13.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19028" CreationDate="2014-01-18T08:38:58.837" Score="1" ViewCount="9430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm converting my old favorit bicycle to a fixie, but the hub is obviously not made for a fixed gear cog. I've removed the freewheel (not sure if it's called that, the thing that spins backwards on the hub..) but I'm left with a &quot;screw on hub&quot; (the cassette with the freewheel was screwed on to the hub). How can I install a fixed gear cog on that? Is there even a way? please help..&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kYbOT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear hub, with freewheel and cassette removed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7993" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T14:18:13.033" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T14:18:13.033" Title="How do I install a fixed gear cog on a screw-on freewheel hub?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19027" CreationDate="2014-01-18T08:57:54.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not done this, but I beleive the threads are compatible with a standard fixed gear cog. If so, just buy a cog and install it. Then put a lockring from an adjustable bottom bracket on as a lockring (it has the same threads as the hub). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this will not works as well as a proper fixie hub, most obviously because it's missing the left hand threaded section that normally holds the fixie lockring in place. I strongly suggest using locktite, or possibly even superglue, to hold the cog in place. Otherwise when you back pedal to brake there's a real danger that the cog will undo and you'll lose drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Modifications/Fixed_Gear_Hub_Conversion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;detailed explanation here&lt;/a&gt; that covers what you've done plus the next steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T08:57:54.133" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-18T17:27:19.627" Score="1" ViewCount="1327" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit weird question. I bought a &lt;strong&gt;Specialized Hardrock XC&lt;/strong&gt; used bike cheaply on e-bay. It had no front brake and the rear v-brake had different arms and was very dodgy. I thought I would able to fix what needs to be fixed - essentially to replace brakes shifters and cables. It would be fine, but for the unexpected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OSilN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Similar studs on e-bay&quot;&gt; Studs that can be e-bay ordered from Taiwan) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is good apart from the &lt;strong&gt;left rear V-brake stud&lt;/strong&gt; (the cylinder piece on which brake is put on) - also called brake pivot and cantilever stud. It is protruding from frame by about 2 mm more than the right, also has a thicker ring at its base - so looks like as if it had not been screwed in all the way. If you look at the photo it looks like the disc shaped wider part has remained above the frame. Moreover - the part which the brake fits on that should be round (it is like a cylinder in the middle with flat sides used to screw studs into the corresponding frame threads) apparently has become oval - the left side brake does not go down all the way to the frame as the right side brake does and the fixator pin inserts into its hole by about 1 mm max. This is the problem I was trying to solve - if the brake would fit, I would not bother with the thing that one sud protrudes by 2 mm more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trouble I have is this - &lt;strong&gt;how do I replace the stud or what should I do&lt;/strong&gt;. I have heard that one way would be to try to screw it more in - unlikely as the previous owner would have done it. The other way - to try to screw it out. After I could not fir the brake I tried to use mole grip wrench and understood it would be very difficult - tried just twice and stopped not to break the thing further. Another option maybe would be to file down the existing stud so that the brake fits on safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how do I even know that the thread in studs from Taiwan would even fit the thread, should I be able to remove the stud? So I am worried to mess up the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake I am trying to put on is &lt;em&gt;Shimano Deore M590&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do more experienced people think - how to sort this out? I am only a technically inclined noob in bicycling and would be very grateful for advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9065" LastEditorUserId="9065" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T17:34:30.793" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T19:13:11.193" Title="Rear V-brake pivots (cantilever studs) asymmetrical on Specialized Hardrock XC 2004 - how to fix?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-18T22:06:03.827" Score="2" ViewCount="1070" Body="&lt;p&gt;So earlier this week behind a local school I discovered something remarkable. Someone had put a old, wrecked women's bicycle in a pond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels toast, the chain rings are useless, rust in many spots and the handle bars take some effort to get them to turn. The frame itself isn't too bad, just has some rust and chipping paint everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some photos of how I found it initially:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JvcI9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JvcI9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GKg2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GKg2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cyvj5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cyvj5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfNQR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NfNQR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzSxk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GzSxk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After closer inspection i noticed a decal on the top tube that read &quot;Alpine 26&quot; which I can only assume implies 26&quot; wheels. Also there is a sticker on the down tube that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Lawrenceburg, TN 07 76&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Made July, 1976 in Tennessee?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know Murray doesn't make bikes anymore and I heard that there quality of bikes went south in the 80s. I couldn't really bring myself to leave it there so I have it now and would simply like suggestions as to what to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scrap/recycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wall art?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't think there is any point in restoring this unless I find another bike that has working components that could fit but a damaged frame or something for free/cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So could this be significant at all? I don't have a clue as I can't find this model anywhere on the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I feel like it's not, but just checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7156" LastEditorDisplayName="user21269" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T09:40:06.910" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T22:52:52.040" Title="Does this abandoned 1976 Murray Alpine 26 I found have any significance or worth?" Tags="&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19035" CreationDate="2014-01-18T23:38:17.833" Score="0" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mr. Tuffy size chart is here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrtuffy.com/sizes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mrtuffy.com/sizes.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tire size is 24&quot;x1.95&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I go by tire diameter, I should go with Mr. Tuffy's Blue liner which fits 24&quot;x1.375&quot;.&#xA;If I go by tire width, I should go with Mr. Tuffy's Brown liner which fits 26&quot;x1.95&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the liners are supposed to be on the long side and should overlap, I'm leaning towards choosing the brown liner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those of you who have experience with Mr. Tuffy's liners and its installation and use, what do you recommend and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9069" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T02:12:33.427" Title="What size Mr. Tuffy Liner should I buy for my 24&quot;x1.95&quot; bike tires?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-19T00:26:04.710" Score="4" ViewCount="4455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on getting a cyclocross bike for commuting because my road bike is suboptimal for riding in rain and snow. A bike shop employee told me that cross bikes have worse geometry for riding on the road. He said that if you forget you're riding a cross bike and lean through a corner, you'll wipe out. He credited this problem to the geometry, rims, and tires of cross bikes. Is the assertion of the bike shop employee true, or was he full of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the practical differences in handling between a cross bike and a road bike? What are the noticeable effects of cyclocross frame geometry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related questions: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6497/can-i-use-a-cyclocross-bike-for-regular-road-biking-purposes&quot;&gt;Can I use a cyclocross bike for regular road-biking purposes?&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15562/what-is-the-difference-between-race-road-and-cx-bikes&quot;&gt;What is the difference between race/road and cx bikes?&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3049/explaining-the-effects-of-frame-geometries&quot;&gt;Explaining the effects of frame geometries&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3649" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T21:59:58.573" Title="How does the geometry of cross bikes affect on-road handling?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;handling&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2014-01-19T01:39:20.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was changing some pedals over today and I noticed that (from the top/12 o'clock) the spanner needs to go towards the rear wheel to loosen and towards the front wheel to tighten. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helped me more than &quot;clockwise&quot; because I was inserting the allen key into the back of the pedal so it was all backwards if you were thinking about &quot;clockwise&quot;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9071" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T01:39:20.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19032" CreationDate="2014-01-19T02:44:05.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people commute on cross bikes just fine (and even prefer them to conventional road bikes). He's full of it - the amount you'd need to forget to have issues is roughly being confused enough to think you're an onion (and if you're this confused, well, you're screwed anyway!), especially at commuting speeds. There are different bicycles for different purposes - for example, you're not going to take a touring bike like the Trek 520 and compare it to a racy road bike like the Specialized Allez. You probably wouldn't want to enter a road race with a cross bike, but commuting is a fine purpose for a lot of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 sorts of cross bikes - ones meant for racing , and ones meant for regular use (e.g. Trek Crossrip). These aren't necessarily disjoint (e.g. Kona Jake the Snake is used for both, to some extent), but you can tell roughly what they are for by looking at the components spec'd (&lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/review/79994-trek-crossrip-elite-2013&quot;&gt;example description for the Trek crossrip&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you want slick tires for your commuter (if you're on the road) since the slightly knobby cross tires that come with them increase noise and can lower cornering speeds (For example, cornering quickly with a mountain bike on knobby tires does lead to washouts sometimes due to the knobs squirming). But things like the Kenda Small Block Eight are fine for commuting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, cross bikes have higher bottom brackets, larger tire clearances, cantilever/disc brakes, longer wheelbases , cables routed so that you can shoulder the bike easily and more relaxed geometries than road racers. This serves to give more shock absorbance and stability for the bike. The more commuter oriented variants also have easy fender mounting, rack mounts, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the other parts of your question are answered in your related questions and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclo-cross_bicycle&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really an answer to the question: Since rain, snow and grit do tend to damage drivetrain, you may just want to use an old cheap rigid mountain bike (e.g. 80s-90s Specialized Hardrock/Rockhopper, etc.). Great tire clearance, very stable, cheap to replace parts on, discrete (so they don't attract attention in the bike rack), etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-19T02:51:44.520" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T02:51:44.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19031" CreationDate="2014-01-19T03:01:28.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend none. They're &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more likely to cause flats&lt;/a&gt; when installed improperly and increase rolling resistance and weight. You're better off purchasing Kevlar belted tires/ puncture resistant tires, or if you live in an area with thorns, thorn proof tubes. You should also make sure your rim tape is properly installed and your tires are properly inflated - with this, and the right tire choice, they should be unnecessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18872/is-this-a-puncture-protection-thing&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, 1 3/8&quot; is not the same as 1.375 inches when sizing tires, necessarily (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brown's law of tire sizing&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I do not use Mr. Tuffy liners, I'd think the 26&quot;x1.95&quot; one with a bit of trimming is the way to go in this case if you still choose to use one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T03:01:28.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-19T06:24:55.430" Score="2" ViewCount="2292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Gazelle city bike that has a badly braking front brake. It's a drum brake as depicted &lt;a href=&quot;http://static.nrc.nl/images/raster/140913wet_trommelrem.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_kUphCVtERY/Uk6h6iamSfI/AAAAAAAAC48/l330agp5xDg/s1600/DSCN1163.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I squeeze the brake levers fully it doesn't touch the handlebar, so that's not the bottleneck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I improve the braking power of such a drum brake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6852" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T08:12:42.177" Title="How to increase the brake force of my drum brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2014-01-19T13:20:36.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right is Right, or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might is Right (being the drive side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T13:20:36.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2265" CreationDate="2014-01-19T14:00:22.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On packed snow (IE from cars), my hybrid performs better than my mountain bike. The narrower tires cut through and contact solid pavement underneath. The bigger mountain bike tires can't cut through and end up floating on the surface. The effect is like hydroplaning. Very hard to steer, although I don't know the physics behind that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9074" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T14:00:22.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19036" CreationDate="2014-01-19T14:10:26.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just like an automobile brake and would be fixed using the same techniques. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First make sure the lever is moving freely, and is not &quot;bottoming out&quot; due to the cable being too tight.  (To adjust the brake you do not tighten the cable but rather adjust the eccentric that is opposite the lever pivot.  Then adjust the cable to match.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricate the pivot lightly, but do not get any lubricant on the drum or shoes.  If need be, wash off any oil or grease on the drum/shoes and wipe with a naptha-moistened cloth, then sand the shoes lightly to remove any glaze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examine the shoes to make sure they are not worn out, and examine the drum for serious scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T14:10:26.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-19T16:02:59.590" Score="-1" ViewCount="2128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/global/en/products/234127009/bike-metrix-20-men-xl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SCOTT Metrix 20&lt;/a&gt;. I'm usually having 3 road trips per week of 30 km / 18 miles. My goal is a total of 3500 km / 2200 miles per year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Are there any obviously weak parts coming with this bike I should replace to improve the overall experience and/or reduce maintenance expenses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9075" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T09:13:35.797" Title="Are there any parts I should replace on my SCOTT Metrix 20?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19040" CreationDate="2014-01-19T16:46:10.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;18 mile trips are reasonably short, and 2200 miles a year isn't much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General advice: You want to replace things as they break/get worn down. For example, if your chain is worn or cassette is worn, you'll want to replace it (though you should get several thousand miles out of each, but YMMV with riding conditions, maintenance, etc.), when the chain is properly lubricated. Make sure to do the 1 month service after you buy the bike (this should have been included with your purchase), since they'll have to adjust things (cable stretch, etc.). You can find most of the things you need to do for bike maintenance on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/articles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt;, and you can look at books like &quot;The Bicycling Guide to Complete Bicycle Maintenance &amp;amp; Repair&quot; by Todd Downs, which goes over several common problems and solutions and adjustments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you will probably have to adjust within the first year are the brakes as the pads wear down (rate is highly depending on riding conditions), chain cleaning / lubrication (and possibly a new chain at the end of the year), and fine derailleur adjustments due to cable stretch. You'll probably also have to clean the rims at some point due to residue from the brake pads. And you'll probably want to tighten nuts and bolts periodically, since they do come loose eventually. And you obviously need to keep your tires inflated properly (and possibly repair any punctures). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike Fit: The only things you want to replace off the bat are things related to bike fit (these would have come up if you had a professional bike fitting done). For example, if the stem is too long, you'd have swapped it out for a shorter one, or if the saddle is too narrow, you'd have put in a wider one. But, if you're properly adjusted to this, then you don't really need to replace things (but there is a great deal of personal preference to bike fitting - it isn't a science). One thing to note is that a wide cushy saddle isn't really good for anything longer than 5-10 mile rides for most people, so if you're not used to using your sit bones, a good saddle may not feel good at first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some accessories you may want: You may also want to go with some grips with bar ends like the Ergon GP3 which give you another hand position or so, for longer rides (you won't really need them for ~25 mile rides, but I do like them a lot, even for my commute). Even if you're not intending to ride at night, you should have some lights (cause you will get caught at night one day). You should also buy a helmet and a good u-lock. If you're commuting on this, you may want to get some full fenders - they'll keep crud out of the drive train and dirt off your back. A bike multitool is nice for rides as well, in case something goes wrong. A bike rack is also sometimes useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also be familiar with basic bike maintenance (like, how to change a tire, patch a flat, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-19T17:16:10.250" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T17:16:10.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19040" CreationDate="2014-01-19T23:18:27.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mainly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean &amp;amp; lube the drive train occasionally.  Some people are obsessive and do this almost daily, but a couple times a season is usually sufficient unless you ride in excessively dusty or muddy conditions.  A &quot;chain washer&quot; (and associated solvent) is a worthwhile investment.  And use real &quot;chain oil&quot;, not motor oil.  Pick an oil (&quot;wet&quot; or &quot;dry&quot;) appropriate to your usual riding conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the chain for wear.  Purchase some sort of a chain wear gauge and use it 2-3 times a season.  Replace the chain when it gets to about 0.8% wear.  2000 miles is about typical for the life of a chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When replacing the chain, check the sprockets for wear.  The rear sprockets generally wear first and may need replacing at 5000 miles or so.  The front sprockets generally last 10-20K miles, with the different sprockets wearing at different rates, depending on which you use most.  (You're probably best off having sprocket wear checked at a bike shop.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brake pads need to be checked for wear fairly regularly (every 500 miles or so, depending on riding style) and replaced before they get worn enough that the pad holder is in any danger of contacting the rim.  Adjusting the brakes as they wear is also necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel and headset bearings need to be repacked maybe ever 20K miles, sooner if ridden in really wet conditions.  Generally you ride bottom bracket bearings until they fail, since the BB is usually a cartridge that you throw out and replace.  (Sometimes the other bearings are cartridge too.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires need to be replaced when worn out or damaged.  &quot;Worn out&quot; means the center part is getting thin to the degree that it feels thin when you press it and is apt to puncture -- simply being bare in the center is not a problem (and in fact is the way most road bike tires are designed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing that you should NEED to replace on the bike when it's new, though you may decide you want, eg, a different style tire, or perhaps brake pads that are harder or softer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T23:18:27.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-20T03:00:19.197" Score="2" ViewCount="3119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a set of handlebars from a MASI Uno.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AU936.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know if I can put standard drop bar brakes, similar to these (ignore the interrupter brakes and bar end shifter for now).&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZDRSM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MASI bars have such a large drop, I'm not sure how well the brakes would work. I doubt I'll get a nice flat surface to grip the brakes while still being able to reach them from the drops. Has anyone tried this? Did it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T13:02:21.427" Title="Can I put standard drop brakes on a MASI drop handlebar?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-20T03:21:04.323" Score="6" ViewCount="7227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have v-brakes which have started to groove my rims. What is the surest way to know if they need replacing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="553" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T21:12:18.110" Title="How can I tell if my wheels need replacing due to rim wear?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19045" CreationDate="2014-01-20T03:53:43.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most rims have a little dimple or a groove (called wear indicators) for detecting rim wear. When this dimple or groove disappears, its time to get new rims. If the wheel physically damaged, take it to a LBS for an assessment on if it needs to be replaced or can be repaired anyway (e.g. cracks, dents, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your rim doesn't have wear indicators, take it to a bike shop, and they'll measure the rim widths with a caliper and check for deformations. I don't have a good threshold for what thickness would be considered acceptable, but I'd err on the side of caution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your v-brake is grooving your rims, are you sure brake pads are still good? If you hit the metal back plate, they'll start destroying rims. If the groove is on the brake pads (due to the wear indicator or misalignment), you can sand it down if theres still enough material left, or just put on new pads.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T03:53:43.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19045" CreationDate="2014-01-20T04:47:35.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your rims bulge outwards under a high pressure inflation, its probably a sign they're sufficiently worn to require replacement.  This can be detected by sporadic rim brake effectiveness when brakes are correctly set, as in, rubbing during one point of the rotation, or variable braking capacity during a spin of the wheel.  It feels like shuddering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the pressure required to detect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;on 47-559 which given my weight &amp;amp; use I run at 33psi / 53psi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rim bulge was detectable at 60psi and obvious at 80 or 100psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source = Failure mode of my most recent rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastEditorUserId="4444" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T21:12:18.110" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T21:12:18.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-20T08:23:34.047" Score="14" ViewCount="1952" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the last year, 3 of my friends got their bikes stolen by leaving them &quot;just for a minute&quot; in front of a shop &quot;while watching them through the window&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, sometimes I do the same. Maybe I didn't plan to bring a lock, and need to jump really quick to somewhere. Maybe there is a security guard nearby, or a bank camera. Maybe I am just too lazy to to dig the lock out of the bottom of my backpack, and have exact change to grab a beer. Maybe there is nowhere to lock to in a 100m radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My question is how to increase security in these dangerous situations.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend shared with me, that he shifts into the lowest gear - that way if someone tries to ride away the bike, it will take him quite some time. On the other hand, something that I do, is lean my backpack against the bike or even strap them together. IMO this makes riding off with the bike a little more difficult, while risking my backpack along with the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, the &quot;derail the chain off the front chainrings&quot; sounds most sane to me, because I can do it with my shoe, without getting oil on my hands. Still, carrying the lock on my waist, under the backpack belt, is the far best solution. Why do I even put it &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the backpack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T11:46:20.810" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T19:21:02.230" Title="Techniques for safely leaving a bike for 1-2 minutes in a safe-ish place" Tags="&lt;security&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19080" CreationDate="2014-01-20T08:43:29.007" Score="2" ViewCount="1219" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has someone discovered a way to carry sunglasses, so that they can be put on or removed while riding? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried two approaches, and both have drawbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carrying in a pouch, attached to the shoulder ring of the backpack results in scratched lens, because of the vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carrying in the chest pocket of a jacket is possible only when it is sufficiently cold to wear a jacket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tashev.bg/shop/product_info.php?language=en&amp;amp;idarticles=412&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;backpack&lt;/a&gt; is large and with a lot of options for hanging equipment on it, so maybe some kind of attachable box or external pocket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T18:13:00.837" Title="How to carry sunglasses, so that I can easily put them on or off?" Tags="&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19048" CreationDate="2014-01-20T09:54:05.520" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, these suggestions are only going to make it slightly harder to ride away with your bike. I've heard the most common thefts involve grabbing the bike or bikes and slinging them into the back of a van, in which case it doesn't make much difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But against the casual opportunist/errant kid...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a QR parts and remove them - saddle, pedals?, bars?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use a small velcro strap to make parking easier. This goes around the bars and pulls on the brake lever on when parking, makes it easy to lean it up against a wall without it wobbling. This might stall someone not expecting it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Derail the chain from the front rings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Best of all, get one of those super-convenient rear wheel/frame locks as below:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iBkpJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The most convenient bike lock?&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you've got your key with you - some of them stay in the lock when it's unlocked - it's easy. No more excuses!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T09:54:05.520" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19079" CreationDate="2014-01-20T09:55:11.120" Score="2" ViewCount="8410" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is my first time here however I am a long time stackexchange user.&#xA;I am planning to get a new MTB. Haven't ride for a long time 10y ago, as a kid I was always riding a MTB (I had an old low budget MTB and I don't want to ride it anymore).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering to get this bike:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cube.eu/en/bikes/mtb-hardtail/analog/analog-29-black-grey/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cube.eu/en/bikes/mtb-hardtail/analog/analog-29-black-grey/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see it's a 29er. Basicly I wanted to get 27.5 or 26 however at every store at my country they are telling me that 29ers are the best.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can anyone of you more experienced users tell me why should I prefer 29'' tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what can you tell me about the bike? I don't have much experience since my last ride on a mtb was about 10y ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike is 720eu at my country and I am getting it at a 20% (570eu) discount and this is as high as possible for my budget.&#xA;So am i getting something worthy for the price?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9084" LastEditorUserId="9084" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T10:57:04.640" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T01:53:55.133" Title="MTB Why are 29ers considered better then the legacy 26'' or 27'' tires?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;29er&gt;&lt;26-inch&gt;&lt;27-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19048" CreationDate="2014-01-20T09:56:23.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would reccomend against this. It only takes 10 seconds to hop on a bike and make off. Although some suggestions come to mind&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;purposley derail your chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carry a light, cheap combination lock. It takes a few seconds to fit and is better than nothing. you could store it around your seatpost for easy access&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tie or put something between your spokes. Though this may damage you bike if an attempt to steal it is made.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ask the shop if you can put it inside. (its just the same as a pushchair, only with 2 less and bigger wheels)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fit a GPS tracking device inside your frame (this would be an expensive option)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carry your front wheel in with you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of things you could do that would make it difficult to make a speedy getaway. Anything that would hinder you would also hinder a thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T09:56:23.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19050" CreationDate="2014-01-20T09:59:33.723" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are lucky/careful with your combination of sunglasses and helmet, you can store &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/reverence/reverence-helmet-vents/#comment-5570&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;them quite securely in helmet's vents&lt;/a&gt;, which makes it easy to put them on/off with a single hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3ecl9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sunglasses stored in helmet vents&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(quite hard to find a decent picture of this, screen-capture is from the Vuelta a España 2013, stage 14)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T09:59:33.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21289" CreationDate="2014-01-20T10:09:34.993" Score="3" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tour_Down_Under&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tour Down Under (TDU)&lt;/a&gt; is technically a 6-stage race, but the day before is the &quot;People's Choice Classic&quot;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The People's Choice Classic, also known as the Down Under Classic, is a single day road cycling race held in Adelaide, South Australia, Australia. The race is the official warm-up for the Tour Down Under. Founded in 2006, the race exists as a men's only competition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The race is the day before Stage 1, but it doesn't have any bearing on the Tour Down Under, and riders &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tourdownunder.com.au/frequently-asked-questions.htm#970&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;don't earn UCI points&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any specific reason this is not part of the TDU?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was it's good for attendance/marketing/etc for &quot;the race&quot; to both start and finish on a weekend (and both take place very near the city-centre), but there might be some UCI rule preventing a 7-stage.. but this theory is completely unfounded (I couldn't find anything to this effect in the UCI rules/race-guidelines)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T03:44:06.747" Title="Reason behind the Tour Down Under &quot;People's Choice Classic&quot;" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17707" CreationDate="2014-01-20T13:24:54.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a 10mm allen wrench was needed.  Looking at the head for the bolt, it looks special, but its not, so I was deceived.  Probably not a traditional bolt head, as the axle must fit through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T13:24:54.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20264" CreationDate="2014-01-20T14:48:20.233" Score="4" ViewCount="3764" Body="&lt;p&gt;When looking for a compact bike for storage and carrying reasons, a folding bike seems a great deal. But how do folding bikes perform for trips longer than 20km ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a bike I would use for &lt;strong&gt;commuting&lt;/strong&gt; with important traffic and frequent stops (Paris), together with &lt;strong&gt;touring&lt;/strong&gt; (Europe). The bike has to be compact enough to be stored in a &lt;strong&gt;small flat&lt;/strong&gt; and to be taken in &lt;strong&gt;trains&lt;/strong&gt; and carried inside train stations.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Brompton bikes are known to be stable and robust. But due to the position of the rider and the size of the wheels, these folding bikes are never used for long trips (more often 30km, but also few 150km trips travelling between cities). Does it exists any kind of hybrid bikes which would combine both compactness and comfort with long distance ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hpvelotechnik.com/produkte/ghp/index_e.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grasshopper FX&lt;/a&gt; a foldable recumbent bike, which doesn't seem to be great for city commuting. How do 700c foldable bikes perform ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9086" LastEditorUserId="9086" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T14:59:27.670" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T10:39:19.210" Title="Folding bike for commuting and touring" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2014-01-20T16:19:58.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using LOOK Keo pedals or something similar it's obviously down to practice, but I also found this little tip useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't just push your foot down onto them, you have to slide it forward to engage the nose then press the back down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The act of sliding forward also puts the pedals the right way up so you don't try to engage them upside-down!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9088" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T16:19:58.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19074" CreationDate="2014-01-20T16:50:11.087" Score="2" ViewCount="2032" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a noticable performance different between the SPD and the SPD SL systems?  I've got SPD SLs on my current bike, but some of the touring I do required quite a lot of walking, so I was thinking of getting some SPD pedals so I could use shoes that were easier to walk in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current shoes are racing shoes - exposed cleats - but they will take SPD cleats in it.  So if I swap them over, will the ride be particualrily different?  Or should I keep them SPD SL and just swap over the pedals whenever I want to use them (as I find them very comfortable with the rigid sole).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T05:22:37.337" Title="Performance difference between Shimano SPD and SPD SL" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;spd&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20244" CreationDate="2014-01-20T17:14:06.700" Score="5" ViewCount="7102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my bike to work. But every time I get a flat tire, my schedule is messed up because bike shops are not easily available on my town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other option besides puncture-proof tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9089" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T18:35:07.497" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:31:57.360" Title="Anti-puncture options" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19061" CreationDate="2014-01-20T17:31:21.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you can find solid rubber tires for your bike, there really is no such thing as a puncture proof tire. You can get tires that are more resistant to puncture, but they can and will still go flat- just not as often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do you need a bike shop to fix a flat tire? You can easily do it yourself. All you need is a small saddle bag for tools and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A set of 2 or 3 tire levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a spare tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a CO2 inflator or small pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICSPq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the tire yourself is fairly easy. See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzqjoFAXA5I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Changing a bike tire&lt;/a&gt; Use your spare tube so you don't have to take the time to patch a tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A patch kit for bike tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bike hex tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additional tools above let you do other routine on-the-fly repairs and adjustments. The patch ket comes in handy if you have 2 flats in one day, OR get a larger cut in your tire- you can patch the actual tire itself &lt;em&gt;(from the inside)&lt;/em&gt;. The hex tool lets you adjust set height, straighten your handlebars, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can fix a flat front tire in under 10 minutes, and a rear tire in less than 15 minutes. Way faster than finding a bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastEditorUserId="5360" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T18:15:43.460" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T18:15:43.460" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19048" CreationDate="2014-01-20T19:30:59.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carry a luggage lock with a retractable cable for &quot;just-a-minute&quot; stops on the way home from work. It weighs nothing, is always in my bike bag (unlike a heavy lock) and it prevents the casual theft, although a determined thief could probably break it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it is the same brand, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://zenbackpacking.net/BackpackSecurity.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is very similar to the one I own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9093" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T20:24:28.093" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T20:24:28.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2014-01-20T19:52:15.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With one-sided road specific pedals there are a number of factors to nailing the one pedal stroke clip-in.  Depending on how the manufacture has weighted the pedal this differs from pedal-model to pedal model, so you will need to experiment.  (I personally use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.time-sport.com/pedales/xpresso_17.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Time&lt;/a&gt;, which are weighted well, but have a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/pedals/road/product.-code-PD-A520.-type-.pd_road.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano SPD road&lt;/a&gt; pedals on my commuter where the the weighting makes this more difficult).  Typically, most single sided road pedals will flip up (aka clip surface to the rear) when not engaged to a shoe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is to spin the crank at a fast enough speed so that the clip-in surface presents its self at top of the pedal stroke. At this point you have one chance to hit the clip-in target with your unclipped foot.  The force from the ensuing down stroke will engage the cleat.  If you spin the crank to slow at the start of the pedal stroke, the unclipped pedal may remain with the clip surface down making it impossible to clip-in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nailing the starting crank speed is easy to figure out with some experimentation and ensuring you start in a low enough gear.  Hitting the target needs to be become an automatic/learned response.  If you are thinking about it, it is not automatic and you will likely mess it up.  This takes a while to master, so I suggest practicing in low risk environments so you can relax and not over think it.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T19:52:15.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17956" CreationDate="2014-01-20T21:48:23.253" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved my problem! I changed to Shimano XTR with ICE Rotors, not a squeal since&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8329" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T21:48:23.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19061" CreationDate="2014-01-20T23:36:27.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answers and comments have covered the &quot;toughen up&quot; approach pretty well. Here are two techniques you can use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not meant to be condescending, but &lt;strong&gt;watch where you're going&lt;/strong&gt;. On your commutes this is easier said than done, because your main attention needs to be on the traffic for safety. But &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you see glass or other trash on the road you can try to avoid it, by going 'round it, or bunny hopping over it (not if you have panniers). And if you are seeing trash in the same area repeatedly, you can search for a cleaner route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a road bike, if you know you have run over some trash, &lt;strong&gt;brush your tires&lt;/strong&gt; with your hand. Most punctures occur by the tire &quot;picking up&quot; a sharp object, then hammering it through the tire by repeatedly hitting it on the road as the wheel rotates. While I have never hurt my hand doing this, it makes sense to wear cycling gloves. You'll almost never even know if there was anything to brush off. Of course, if your bike has mud-guards this option is a non-starter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to brush your tires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For safety&lt;/em&gt; make sure you only brush your tires at a point where the tire is moving &lt;em&gt;away&lt;/em&gt; from the forks and brakes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Front tire:&lt;/strong&gt; While continuing to ride, reach down to the top of the front tire &lt;em&gt;in front&lt;/em&gt; of the fork, and gently put part of your hand (I use the part between my thumb and first finger) against the moving tire. You do not need to press, just touch it as it brushes past your hand; that's sufficient to dislodge any trash adhering to the tire. Make sure you brush for at least two turns of the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rear tire:&lt;/strong&gt; the technique is the same, but it's a bit harder to do. Most people need to look where they are putting their hand, because it is easy to poke fingers into the moving spokes (it hurts)! Put your hand against the moving tire in front of the back-stay, but close to it. Keep well away from the down-tube: there is usually insufficient gap between the tire and down-tube for your hand, so getting your hand there hurts too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brushing your tires will not stop all punctures, but it does stop most. For 5 years of commuting I rode my touring bike (it has mud-guards) and would get punctures like everyone else. Then I switched to my road bike on the same route and same level of attentiveness to where I was riding, and the punctures fell to six in ten years (including one week when I had 3) and 50,000 km (30,000 miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-24T21:31:57.360" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T21:31:57.360" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19050" CreationDate="2014-01-21T01:31:36.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a style of &quot;Flip Up&quot; sunglasses that appeals to you ( see link for examples ). Then you just put on the sunglasses at the beginning of the ride and you can flip them up or down as needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005P1KY8M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Old-School-Steampunk-Circle-Glasses-Sunglasses/dp/B005P1KY8M/ref=sr_1_3?s=apparel&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1390267751&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=retro+flip+up+sunglasses&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T01:31:36.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19048" CreationDate="2014-01-21T01:39:14.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just remember one thing, if you can't take the time to properly lock your bike to a fixed object, two people in a pickup truck can stop for a few seconds and pick up your bike and toss it in the back of their truck and be gone before you can get to the front door! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T01:39:14.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19073" CreationDate="2014-01-21T01:43:09.447" Score="0" ViewCount="3245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build a steel lugged frame and equip it with downtube friction shifting. My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do Dura Ace 7900 downtube shifters come with friction mode? The left lever does not have a D-Ring for switching between SIS and friction mode according to my observation.  If not, which model of Dura Ace shifters offers friction mode?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do downtube shifters have a predefined shifting cable travel so that the older DA friction shifters could not be used on 10 or 11 speed cassette simply because there is not enough cable travel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apart from Cane Creek, are there other manufacturers who offer aero brake levers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9098" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-01-21T12:39:35.393" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T12:39:35.393" Title="Downtube friction shifters for 11 speed" Tags="&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19072" CreationDate="2014-01-21T03:25:56.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(a) Friction is gone on the right on 10/11 sp dura ace (they apparently save a spring while doing this, which probably simplifies things a little bit aside from interest in this). Microshift BS-T10 bar ends are 10 speed, front friction with rear switchable, and you can probably mount them on the downtube with a bit of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(b) Other friction shifters should be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(c) SRAM among others do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd think going with a 9 speed system may be easier (you can find Dura Ace SL-7700 shifters with index+friction for cheap). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-21T03:32:04.740" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T03:32:04.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19060" CreationDate="2014-01-21T05:22:37.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There likely isn't much difference in performance. Some people do find that SPD cleats lead to &quot;hot spots&quot; (painful spots) on the balls of the feet; that's why I went to SPD-SLs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find a difference in platform height; IIRC the height of the SPD cleats + pedals is shorter than the SPD-SL. You'd want to adjust your seat height to deal with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T05:22:37.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19076" CreationDate="2014-01-21T11:05:24.457" Score="1" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone knew of any commercially available sprung tyres or wheels. I'm talking about wheels that take do the shock absorption instead of a pneumatic tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fastcodesign.com/1665045/soft-ride-bike-has-steel-tires-and-you-can-ride-it-now:&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is all I can find at the moment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/08MkF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I saw a kickstarter for a set a while ago but I can't seem to find it anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1592" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T11:38:57.447" Title="Commercially available sprung tyres/wheels?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19075" CreationDate="2014-01-21T11:38:57.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loopwheels.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Loopwheels&lt;/a&gt; makes bicycle wheels with springs in stead of spokes. They also had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1205277475/loopwheels-for-a-smoother-more-comfortable-bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;successful Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt;, so it might be what you were thinking about. They do however still rely on normal tyres and rims, so can't be said to work without pneumatic tyres. Although I bet you can run a pretty high tyre preassure quite comfortably with these wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1hjp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3279" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T11:38:57.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27298" CreationDate="2014-01-21T16:56:47.517" Score="2" ViewCount="1173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some Crosso panniers that have got quite a few holes in. I once fixed a drybag backpack with patches of leather and industrial strength glue which worked like a treat, but I've forgotten what glue it was (it came in a large tin and I spread it on with a knife)- it was in the textiles department at the uni I was studying in. Any advice / links / tricks would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T15:44:30.977" Title="How can I fix panniers that have got holes in" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19048" CreationDate="2014-01-21T17:40:16.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At our local grocery store's bike rack, I see about 5 locks located there by, I assume, people who ride to grab their groceries regularly. That way they don't have to carry their lock with them all the time. Seems like a good idea for somewhere you pedal to regularly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9102" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T17:40:16.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19052" CreationDate="2014-01-21T17:49:38.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got into mountain biking (last summer) and I had to find the answers to all these same types of questions. The answer to your question is not a simple one. You actually have to answer a few more questions before you can know which is the right size wheel for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all you won't want anything smaller than 26&quot;. You won't be able to roll over a lot of obstacles without a decent sized wheel. The benefit of the 26&quot; wheels is that they tend to be more maneuverable, they weigh the least amount and thus roll faster, and if you are not a tall person then the 26&quot; will be easier to find a frame that fits you right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 29&quot; wheel allows you to go over more obstacles more easily. They are great if you have long legs. And they are less likely to be suddenly stopped by obstructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are the 27.5&quot; wheels. The brand Giant actually did a lot of research on these and have pegged them as the best compromise between the 26&quot; and the 29&quot;. They tend to be closer to the 26&quot; when it comes to weight and speed. But closer to the 29&quot; when it comes to angle of attack and the ability to go over obstacles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last summer I started out with a 26&quot; hybrid on the trails (yes I said hybrid, it is what I had to work with at the time). I rode with two friends that had real mountain bikes. One had a 26&quot; and the other a 29er. Riding a hybrid definitely held me back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I did get a chance to ride both of their bikes and what I found is that it is essential to have a bike that is built for mountain biking when you do this. Both felt smooth as butter compared to the hybrid. Both performed well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend Josh that had the 29er had an easier time going down some rock steps and over some obstacles. But Bill, the one with the 26er, was able to climb more quickly. That said, Bill is also a lighter person than Josh. So that probably added to the differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I think the experience with both was about the same. It was really just having an actual mountain bike with strong parts and good derailleurs that mattered the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I will say this, if you are going to spend a good amount of time on paved trails too then you will want to consider the lighter, faster wheels (26 or 27.5). If you are shorter or a low weight person then the large 29ers might require to much of your energy to pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, even though I am not that tall (5'7&quot;) I ended up with a 29er that I purchased recently. I did this because I have large strong legs and wanted to go over the obstacles more easily. I think in the end it is more preference though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Giant has invested a lot into the 27.5&quot; bikes. So they might be worth a look since they have lots of confidence in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info on that:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/mountainbikecom/bikes-gear/giant-bets-big-275-inch-wheels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicycling.com/mountainbikecom/bikes-gear/giant-bets-big-275-inch-wheels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9103" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T17:49:38.903" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19050" CreationDate="2014-01-21T18:13:00.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're riding in race kit, then you can use one of your jersey's rear pockets for this purpose. Putting the sunglasses away is really easy, but when getting them out again it can be a little fiddly to open the arms with one hand, the first few times you do it. You can even share the same pocket with something else, as long as it's not keys or a water bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For race kit or light everyday clothes, you can hook one arm into the front of your T-shirt, shirt, jersey, jumper, etc. like a tourist does when walking around. You need to be confident of how stiff the arms are, but unless the sunglasses are wont to swing open on their own, it's perfectly safe. I wouldn't recommend trying it on a heavy jacket with a zip front or metal buttons, mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably not a useful suggestion for you, but some rucksacks have chest straps to keep them stable on the move: it's usually possible to stick one arm of the glasses vertically through part of this assembly, such as the loop where the fastening is attached. If it's a snug fit, you can safely keep your glasses there even if the arm swings freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T18:13:00.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19084" CreationDate="2014-01-21T18:44:04.203" Score="7" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess it is something related to the springs in the derailleur. But is it that important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8824" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T18:53:49.433" Title="Why do some people leave the chain sitting on the smaller sprocket when the bike is not used for a while?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2656" CreationDate="2014-01-21T18:51:50.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from dampening it (foams) or switching to trainer specific tires (which will also last longer, like the Continental Hometrainer), the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_trainer#Types_of_trainers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;type of trainer&lt;/a&gt; plays a big part. You can have a fan, something thats magnetic , fluid, etc. - the fluid trainers tend to be quieter than the ones which are fans, for example. Even within the same class, some models may be quieter than others. So, you may be able to get quieter operation by appropriate trainer selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T18:51:50.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19081" CreationDate="2014-01-21T18:53:49.433" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cable that moves a mechanical derailleur is counteracted by a spring. To the best of my knowledge the &quot;leave it on the smallest sprocket&quot; theory suggests that the spring is sitting with the least amount of tension on it. The same is true for the cables. Because they have the least tension they are more likely to maintain adjustment over periods of storage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T18:53:49.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19093" CreationDate="2014-01-21T21:39:59.283" Score="12" ViewCount="72445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm after a mountain bike and I've narrowed it down to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/2013/bikes/mountain/hardtail-29er/f-series-29er/f29-2&quot;&gt;Cannondale F29&lt;/a&gt; (based on reviews, plus I like the &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; of the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, should I go for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Cannondale-Flash-Carbon-29er-3-Mountain-Bike-2013-Hardtail-Race-MTB_56427.htm&quot;&gt;carbon bike&lt;/a&gt; or the alloy bike?  I'm 6'4&quot; and weigh about 125kg; I know carbon is very strong but I've heard when it goes, it just snaps (rather than alloy that bends).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this is a valid concern?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4589" LastEditorUserId="9111" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T08:36:16.190" LastActivityDate="2019-08-28T14:38:13.727" Title="What are the pros and cons between an aluminium and carbon frame?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;reliability&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19088" CreationDate="2014-01-21T21:56:15.070" Score="0" ViewCount="982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to decide on a mountain bike and I've short-listed the Cannondale F29 Carbon 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bike shops are listing them as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Cannondale-Flash-Carbon-29er-3-Mountain-Bike-2013-Hardtail-Race-MTB_56427.htm?utm_source=Google&amp;amp;utm_medium=AdwordsProductAds&amp;amp;utm_campaign=Adwords&amp;amp;gclid=COe3_72fkLwCFQQGwwodhk4AMQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;F29 Carbon 3 &lt;strong&gt;Flash&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and some just as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/cannondale-f29-carbon-3-hardtail-mountain-bike-2013-p210888?gclid=CKzY8LefkLwCFXMbtAodsCQACg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;F29 Carbon 3&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're both the same RRP, &lt;strong&gt;but the specs differ&lt;/strong&gt;.  I know my question is &lt;em&gt;what's the difference&lt;/em&gt; and I'm now saying that the specs differ, but I'm no expert on the parts used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is one better than the other or are they just &lt;em&gt;different/equivalent&lt;/em&gt; parts of roughly equal cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4589" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T22:23:56.857" Title="What's the difference between a Cannondale F29 Carbon 3 and a Cannondale F29 *Flash* Carbon 3?" Tags="&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19085" CreationDate="2014-01-21T22:00:56.397" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon is seen as expensive and light while Aluminum is heavier and cheaper. Both are, to all practical purposes, more than robust enough for the job. At the price point you are looking at (for a hard tail), Carbon is a no brainier and superior in every way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about failure mode, both are as likely to fail catastrophically as each other, although for different reasons. Aluminum will fatigue and stress crack then fail, while carbon tends to fail from impact damage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not worry about the frame failing, it happens, but to be honest, I have seen plenty of guys in bandages, casts and hospital with fully ride-able bikes, and have never personally met someone who got seriously injured breaking a frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T15:23:03.273" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T15:23:03.273" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19086" CreationDate="2014-01-21T22:23:56.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They look like the same bike to me. Its just different shops listing them in different ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, the specifications are exactly the same, but those shops have listed the parts in different ways. eg one has listed both hubs together, the other has them separately. And one specifies what saddle it is, the other doesn't. Both shops are showing the same photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/gbr/2013/bikes/mountain/hardtail-29er/f-series-29er&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2013 Cannondale website&lt;/a&gt;, it just lists the F29 CARBON 3, no mention of &quot;Flash&quot;. It looks like Flash was a brand used for the 2012 range, but for 2013 it is has been abbreviated to just &quot;F&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T22:23:56.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18372" CreationDate="2014-01-21T22:59:41.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, 650B never really went away; Herse kept building 'em, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/650b.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; advocated them as a way to get wider tyres, fenders, etc. on tight clearance 700C frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, a number of bicycle advocates such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/02/01/a-journey-of-discovery-part-3-wide-650b-tires/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Heine&lt;/a&gt; discovered this and started evangelising the beauty of French bicycles.  (Even Sheldon himself could be considered in this group).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclos-cyclotes.org/650/index_ang.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;La Confrérie des 650&lt;/a&gt; has been complaining for a long time about these new fangled tyre sizes like 26&quot; (559) or 700C dominating the wheel and tyre market.  Particularly 559, because it is a marketing gimmick, designed to sell through artificial product differentiation... Though they also wouldn't &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.confreriedes650.org/275.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mind if 27.5&quot; were less marketting, and better at specifying tyre and brake suitability.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T22:59:41.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-22T06:20:17.657" Score="0" ViewCount="912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2002 Ultegra 9-speed triple with 52/39/30(?) chainrings. I swapped out the inner two chainrings twice and kept the original crank and 52-tooth ring. The 52t ring only gets used going downhill and weighing in at 134#, I don't put much pressure on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there ultegra quality replacements available, or do I need to update the crank+rings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9110" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T18:47:04.417" Title="Swapping chainrings on old ultegra crank" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20236" CreationDate="2014-01-22T07:06:57.373" Score="3" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a touring/commuting bike with full Shimano 105 -- triple in the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just removed the outer (largest) chainring and replaced it with a chain guard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy enough to crank on the limit screws to prevent myself from shifting past the middle chainring. However, the chain rubs the front derailleur in my new largest gear (42x11). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering what the best way to adjust the front derailleur would be. Ideally, I'd like to limit out the lowest shift so that I can take advantage of the trim shift that 105 derailleur and shifter have in the outermost position. Is that possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is that I have a 105 double front derailleur hanging around. Perhaps that would be more appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: I checked &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14958/how-to-setup-triple-front-derailleur-with-a-double-crankset&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but it's replacing the entire crank, while I have simply removed one of the chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T08:08:56.160" Title="Adjusting a triple front derailleur after removing largest chainring" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19085" CreationDate="2014-01-22T08:59:56.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into this a lot, and asking around at local bike shops, as I'm looking into getting a modern road bike.  In terms of failure - both aluminium and carbon are quite brittle, compared to steel, and from what I've heard (all non substantiated) they are both about as failure prone as each other nowadays.  Steel can also fail remember!  I'd be interested in a well reserached article into failure rates of different frame materials!  Well looked after, both types can last for a long time too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One bike shop told me that cracks Carbon Fibre can be repaired to a certian degree, apparantly by injecting resin into the cracks then baking it back together, Aluminium can, apparantly, be harder to weld back together.  However, he was trying to sell me a carbon fibre bike!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, carbon fibre can be constructed so that the frame has different properties - stiff where it needs to be stiff, and more flexible where that would be required.  It can give a smoother ride than aluminium.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes down to it though, I suspect you can get badly made frames out of either material!  Can you try riding both models and see which you prefer?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  Here's a video of two frames being stress tested.  Not the most scientific ever, but this particlar carbon frame takes more pubishment than that particular aluminium frame.  Make of that what you will! &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/video/243228/&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/video/243228/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastEditorUserId="9031" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T09:11:58.883" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T09:11:58.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20403" CreationDate="2014-01-22T09:30:59.197" Score="3" ViewCount="1112" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost every question Bicycles.SE about damaged carbon frames seems to get the same answer: &quot;the frame isn't safe anymore.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How strong of a hit is needed to break a carbon frame?&lt;/strong&gt; There are little stones that get thrown up by the wheels and hit the bottom of the frame, from time to time the bike falls down, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T15:06:05.717" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T17:08:32.650" Title="Carbon frame strengh" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;failure&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19094" CreationDate="2014-01-22T10:00:18.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a feeling that this has been covered many times! But here's a detailed paper about carbon fibre compared to other materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/technical-white-paper/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/technical-white-paper/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T10:00:18.477" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19096" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-22T16:05:17.893" Score="1" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a wheelset with heavily worn rims.  This was a cross wheelset used for riding in pretty sloppy conditions all the time.  This was a rim brake based wheelset and used with cantilever brakes.  Now the braking surface is rather concave. It's worn enough that I feel like riding on the road would be unsafe due to risk of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering just using the wheels on my trainer, where I would no longer need to do much in terms of braking (and won't actually be going anywhere).  Do you think this is safe, or should I just go out and buy a cheap / heavy wheelset for indoor training?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T20:27:30.437" Title="Are heavily worn rims safe to use on trainer?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19048" CreationDate="2014-01-22T16:34:14.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fasten my helmet though the rear wheel on the side it is most difficult to access it from.  Thus making it harder to just try pushing the bike as you pass by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more extended stop I remove the front skewer so you can not safely ride off on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3723" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T16:34:14.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19096" CreationDate="2014-01-22T16:48:30.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why not, unless you plan on braking while on the trainer? Theoretically you could still have a rim failure because the wheel/tire pushes against the resistance wheel. However, this is a constant tension, not sudden impacts. If a spoke were to become loose though, the rim could fail and the wheel could implode, but since your on a trainer it's not really all that dangerous (besides picking bits of wheel out of your drivetrain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T16:48:30.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19096" CreationDate="2014-01-22T20:27:30.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only reason a worn rim is dangerous on the road is that you would fall of were it to fail.  On a trainer your weight is held by the axle, not the rim, so a rim failure would be nothing more than a minor annoyance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T20:27:30.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15036" CreationDate="2014-01-22T20:31:28.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure you've got the cones locked against the lock nuts correctly? I have a front wheel on which it's not possible to tighten the lock nuts against the cones, and as a result it will almost entirely seize after about 5 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T20:31:28.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19091" CreationDate="2014-01-23T01:12:26.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a good option for commuting w. heavy wheels etc. My Shimano 105 triple has a couple mounting bolts that allow you to reposition the shifter body, with out changing the limit screws. You can use these when changing crank set ups also. Play around with it a little more, as long as your chain does not go dropping off!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9115" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T01:12:26.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-23T06:50:47.693" Score="3" ViewCount="742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an aerodynamic kid's trailer to tow behind my Velomobiel Quest. Some corner points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Needs to be attached at axle height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't care for the coupling, because that needs to be replaced anyway&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suspension is a must&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;large enough for one up to 8-10 year old kid with a bit of luggage, e.g. swimming pool stuff, something to eat/drink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two-wheeled (trikes can't tow inline trailers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aerodynamics are pretty important&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rain-proof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Germany, so it should be sold here or at least there should be a vendor that ships here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; A bonus would be if there was a way to somehow carry a kid's bicycle on the trailer such that the kid can ride as far as he wants and then climb into the trailer and I can continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastEditorUserId="3186" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T12:36:53.860" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T13:24:19.137" Title="Aerodynamic kid's trailer with suspension" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-23T09:58:56.660" Score="1" ViewCount="1127" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somewhere from the non-drive side of the drivetrain is coming loud squeak when I pedal hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The story is long. First I threaded the BB-ES25 incorrectly, and had to spend half an hour with a file to remove the 2 outermost threads (&lt;em&gt;Conclusion: &lt;strong&gt;Never&lt;/strong&gt; torque anything into aluminum with a wrench. Torque it by hand, then tighten by wrench.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I installed my octalink crankarms, but lost the washer between the non-drive side fixing bolt and the crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a couple of weeks, the BB lockring came loose, getting stuck against the crankarm and forcing me to carry the bike home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After tightening it &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt;*, another week passed and my non-drive side crankarm fell off. I tightened it &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I purchased a torque wrench and re-tightened everything. The BB lcokring to 70Nm and the crankarm fixing bolts to 50Nm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is still squeaking, and I guess it is not coming from the left pedal. What could be wrong now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After fixing the torque values, a week passed and now the creaking is just a memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T08:56:25.097" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T09:52:36.590" Title="Bottom bracket mysteriously squeaking" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19105" CreationDate="2014-01-23T13:10:41.580" Score="4" ViewCount="17376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/jamis/durango-race-2012-mountain-bike-ec031771&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2012 Jamis Durango Race&lt;/a&gt; and am interested on fitting it with rear panniers at some point.  However I want to be sure that they'll be compatible.  There seem to be mounting points on the bike but I don't know if these are standard across all bikes or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do panniers and bikes come with standardised fittings so that any pannier will work with any bike?  If not, is there some kind of compatibility guide for showing which panniers can be mounted on this bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4908" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T13:33:12.810" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T13:49:31.627" Title="How can I tell if a rack and panniers will work with my bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19104" CreationDate="2014-01-23T13:32:24.730" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That particular bike looks like it has mounting points for a rear rack, which is the primary issue. In general, what you are looking for are the bolt holes or &quot;braze-ons&quot; usually just a few inches below where the seat stays connect to the seat tube, as well as ones above the rear axle on the dropout. If your bike doesn't have them, there are ways to mount a rack using various &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebagshop.com/planet-bike-rack-hardware-p-2593.html&quot;&gt;after market kits like this&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can mount a rear rack you will find that most panniers are &quot;universal&quot; in that they will mount to any tubular rack. There are a few pannier bags that are sold as part of a system and work only with one specific rack, so you will want to watch out for those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second issue will be the length of the chain stays. If the frame is somewhat compact, or if you have long feet, you may run into the problem of the back of your feet hitting the front of the bags while you pedal. This is usually only a problem on smaller frames and with larger bags like you would use for self-supported touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because racks and bags change every season or two, you will likely not find a compatibility chart or site. Your best bet is to hit your Local Bike Shop and see what they have available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T13:32:24.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19104" CreationDate="2014-01-23T13:42:19.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be careful, you might have problems with your rear disk brake caliper interfering with rack. You might need a special rack made for this situation. Some bike models have brakes mounted between seat stay and chain stay (inside rear triangle) and can use most racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RN5vI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rack suitable for disk brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also this post: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3426/rack-pannier-for-a-bike-with-disc-brakes&quot;&gt;Rack (&amp;amp; Pannier) for a bike with disc brakes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T13:49:31.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19124" CreationDate="2014-01-23T15:39:55.223" Score="15" ViewCount="3723" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I rode to work in -2°F / -19°C temps.  When I got to my destination (only about 3.5 miles), my lungs felt terrible.  My voice was hoarse and I was coughing a lot. All this despite the fact that I was wearing several wool and fleece layers, a thick balaclava and was completely toasty the whole ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ride may have triggered some exercise induced asthma due to the extreme cold. I tried to cover my face with the balaclava, but there was not enough ventilation and was getting short of breath trying to breath through the fleece, especially when climbing hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of thing is something that should not be repeated for the health of my lungs.  What gear or techniques can I use to prevent this kind of lung irritation during extreme cold? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T18:44:29.833" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T03:50:47.403" Title="How to prevent breathing issues during extreme cold" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-23T16:28:17.310" Score="1" ViewCount="1056" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would expect the crank spider not to sacrifice much stiffness in expanding from 110 to 130, but the chainrings seem flimsy in comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I buy extra stiffness by using a standard chainset instead of a compact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="452" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T07:18:34.220" Title="Are 130 BCD chainsets stiffer than 110 BCD?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19211" CreationDate="2014-01-23T17:45:24.317" Score="0" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having trouble identifying what tools I need to pump these tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We bought some kind of kit that came with multiple attachments and none of them worked. Wondering if something is missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I've ever used before is a presta valve so I am not too well versed in this stuff. Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AueV6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8303" LastEditorUserId="8303" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T20:39:47.103" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T02:25:24.257" Title="What kind of pump/attachment do I need for this? (picture)" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-23T17:55:18.953" Score="3" ViewCount="11012" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the context of restoring the finish of an oxidized once-polished aluminum finish, is there anything better (easier) than 0000 steel wool with Marvel Mystery Oil? I am restoring an &lt;em&gt;old&lt;/em&gt; Cannondale aluminum frame. Over the years, the environment has taken its toll. After renewing the driveline, I would now like to improve its appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8017" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T02:45:31.563" Title="restoring the finish of an oxidized polished aluminum frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19112" CreationDate="2014-01-23T18:06:05.667" Score="2" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;What sources offer reproduction decals in the vintage Cannondale (lower-case, non-italic) style? When I finish restoring my bicycle's polished aluminum finish, I would like to apply replacement decals. I've examined some products offered on eBay, but none match the really old Cannondale logo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8017" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T21:13:21.570" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T14:46:50.160" Title="Sources for vintage or reproduction decals?" Tags="&lt;us&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19111" CreationDate="2014-01-23T21:11:32.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience with custom/stock graphics you've got three options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manufacturer:&lt;/strong&gt; Contact the manufacturer, in this case Cannondale, and see if they have any sticker sheets available. Sometimes they'll have old stock, but more often they only have the last few years.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3rd Party:&lt;/strong&gt; Look for someone selling sticker sheets or vintage logo sheets. Sometimes they may have one but not advertise it because it's not popular.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Custom/Make your own:&lt;/strong&gt; Definitely the most time consuming option, but if you have a decent photo or reference, you can recreate the logo in your design studio of choice (Inkscape, Illustrator, etc.). Or, you can find someone to make some for you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently did option 3 for a GT bike that I had powder-coated. I really wanted their new logo with the wings, but all I could find was the old GT letters. All told it was about $40US to get the decals (and extras) printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T21:11:32.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19110" CreationDate="2014-01-23T21:21:27.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and no, it depends on how much elbow grease you want to put into it. If you just want to get the oxidation off, then you can use a grinder with a wire brush and go to town. Alternatively, you can use sand paper and do it by hand, with a coarse grain for the major stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, it's all about details. You can work with successively finer grain to achieve a smoother, more uniform finish. And if you are feeling particularly picky, this is when you pick up some 00, 000, and 0000 steel wool and go at it. From there, you'll want to seal the frame with something to prevent future oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T21:21:27.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-23T22:46:12.087" Score="2" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would appreciate any help in trying to identify this bicycle. HRSBO 71091&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oyRI0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9119" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T04:57:27.323" Title="Is this a collectable bicycle?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6779" CreationDate="2014-01-23T23:03:29.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of gloves designed for running or biking have a little bit of fabric on the index and thumb specifically for wiping snot off. You may want to consider using one of these, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pearlizumi.com/content/pearlizumi/united-states/en/home/products/men/ride/accessories/gloves/gloves-14141209.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T23:03:29.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-24T09:09:18.497" Score="0" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for information about this frame- it's my trusty touring bike, and I've been gradually upgrading it - next up is to convert to 700c and a modern chainset (probably sora to keep costs down)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is a Falcon, and has a decal saying 'falcon' on it, but I can't find any information about falcons anywhere - no mention on Sheldon Brown of a falcon model, and scant information on Google.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is steel - 25 inch, lugged. It is pretty much the only original part of the bike!  It was originally a 10speed, down tube shifters, rear indexed, front friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give me an approximate date for the frame?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point me in the direction of a resource about falcons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they a well known brand?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of getting the frame resprayed - is there anything I should bear in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hMNex.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear View&quot;&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUbMD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FrontView&quot;&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bUHs.png&quot; alt=&quot;Falcon Decal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TgXU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;headtube closeup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kYqCS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Falcon decal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kl3ux.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dropouts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastEditorUserId="9031" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T12:26:35.113" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T13:21:41.103" Title="Information about an old frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19016" CreationDate="2014-01-24T11:21:37.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try a few coats of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plastidip.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plasti-dip&lt;/a&gt; on metal pedals.  If you degrease the metal properly before you apply it it sticks really well and provides a grippy rubbery plastic surface, much thicker than paint.  I've used it to stop metal clamps scratching campervan bodywork and improve grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might even work on hard plastic pedals (which are harder than typical household paint or plaster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T11:21:37.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19116" CreationDate="2014-01-24T13:12:18.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure but have a look at the Falcon Reynolds 531.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8886" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T13:12:18.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19116" CreationDate="2014-01-24T13:21:41.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Falcon Cycles is a British Cycle manufacturer that is still going to this day, although under different ownership&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falcon_Cycles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Falcon Cycles on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9121" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T13:21:41.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="394" CreationDate="2014-01-24T14:50:03.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ever consider having a more than two-wheeled bicycle, e.g. a recumbent trike, you can no longer use one-wheeled, a.k.a. inline trailers because they will add a lot of lateral torque while cornering, making the whole train fall over to the outside of the corner far easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T14:50:03.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19107" CreationDate="2014-01-24T16:26:06.827" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;A scientific Journal, Chest Journal, published an &lt;a href=&quot;http://journal.publications.chestnet.org/article.aspx?articleid=1084460&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; about the efficiency of heat exchange masks on asthmatic subjects during cold weather exercise.  They found that the heat exchanger masks were at least as effective as pre-treatment with albuterol in preventing decline in lung function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found several commercial heat exchange masks which could potentially be used for cycling:&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Airtrim &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skigo.ca/airtrim.php&quot;&gt;AirTrim Heat/Moisture Exchange Masks&lt;/a&gt; - seems to be the most athlete focused product and would likely be effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;N-Ferno &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0091CC38A&quot;&gt;6970 Extreme Balaclava with Hot Rox&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Polarwrap, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000JKNBPC&quot;&gt;The Exchanger Mask&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Talus Outdoor Technologies &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001SARMZW&quot;&gt;ColdAvenger Pro Soft Shell&lt;/a&gt; Mask or  &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002VWJVA0&quot;&gt;ColdAvenger Expedition Balaclava&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;AirGuard Medical &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002LDAHES&quot;&gt;CT Mask for COPD or Asthma&lt;/a&gt; - May not be designed for high levels of activity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for less extreme temperatures, simply breathing through some medium, like fleece, which captures the moisture you exhale and passes inhaled air back over it may work as a less efficient, but still potentially effective heat exchange in warmer temps. For me, breathing through the balaclava helps a bit in temps over 15F, but is less effective at lower temps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anti-Pollution masks may provide a similar effect as well, but may not capture as much heat if they use exhalation valves which remove some of the exhaled air without capturing the heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T16:26:06.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-24T17:10:53.410" Score="-2" ViewCount="2301" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I'm new to mtb and have myself a trek y22 with carbon fibre wheels, my mates laugh because they say it's to old for anything and most certainly won't be able to go DH or do any kind of jumps!!! Could someone,anyone advise how I could prove them wrong! And not at an over the top cost. Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9125" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T19:10:40.193" Title="White 1996 trek Y22" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-24T17:47:25.413" Score="0" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some carbon fiber DH or XC wheels and don't know where to start, as I'm new to this. Could you give me some help on where to get started?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9125" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T19:04:51.943" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T19:04:51.943" Title="Getting started with carbon fiber DH/XC wheels" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19127" CreationDate="2014-01-24T18:16:53.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For XC you can find a myriad of wheels that are now carbon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For DH, you can find some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Enve-Composites-DH-Wheels-Tested-2013.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;examples&lt;/a&gt; but they are big money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're typically more expensive than their aluminium counter parts, but a little lighter. Rotational weight is typically reduced, which will make the bike turn more quickly and feel &quot;snappier&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're new at mountain biking, I wouldn't recommend getting top spec stuff right away. You're going to have &quot;oops&quot; (e.g., wrong trail, endo, rip a dérailleur off, etc) and it would put a serious dent in your pocket book to replace carbon wheels. You can get two decent bikes for the cost of some carbon hoops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon typically isn't as forgiving in crashes because of the nature of the element. It's more prone to damage from impact than aluminium or steel counterparts, and the failures can be much more difficult to detect. Just my 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T18:16:53.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19126" CreationDate="2014-01-24T19:10:40.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please don't go out and DH on this! The Y22 is a single-crown, 4&quot; travel bike made for trail/XC riding. And better yet, it was made for that type of riding in 1996.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, yes, you could take that down a DH trail, but don't expect it to perform like a brand new Demo or Session with 8&quot;+ of travel, dual crown forks, reinforced wheels, and modern geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use this bike to learn how to ride and build up your basic skills. That means you can do small (2' or less) drops, small tables, and other technical features. From there you can upgrade to a bike that will fit what you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I'm not liable for anything you do if you take this bike off a huge drop/jump and it snaps in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T19:10:40.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19052" CreationDate="2014-01-24T19:41:02.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer 29er wheels roll better that 26&quot; wheels this means better rollover and higher speeds. These are good things for mountain bikes. The trade off is, because they're a larger wheel they require a larger frame. This is especially true for suspension. Usually 29er don't have the same range of suspension as 26&quot; wheels. The larger wheels compensate for some of this on rough ground, but that doesn't help if you're taking large drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So really it comes down to what kind of riding you want to do. If you want light trail use and cross-country riding the 29er is ideal. Since you're considering a hardtail I think this is you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9126" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T19:41:02.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9146" CreationDate="2014-01-24T19:44:47.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to use a surly tuggnut tensioner with my cross check frame with semi-horizontal, forward facing dropouts.  No slipping after that. The end of the tensioner bolt bolt nested in the opening on the rear of the dropout where the long wheel positioner bolt would be installed.  It would likely work on most bikes with this style of semi-horizontal dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zaQtK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cross Check With Tensioner&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The newer Surly Hurdy Gurdy chain tensioner is actually designed with the cross check dropout in mind (and should work with most semi horizontal dropouts). It's not going to get in the way of rack and fender mounts like the tuggnut. From surly's site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hurdy Gurdy is another nifty device that keeps a rear wheel from slipping forward in the dropout under pedal load. It’s designed for our Cross-Check’s semi-horizontal front-loading dropouts, and will also work on many other similar dropouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hurdy gurdy looks like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DF2XN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hurdy Gurdy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T14:19:52.797" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T14:19:52.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5164" CreationDate="2014-01-25T20:45:57.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to look at single speed track threaded cog:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/luqMp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right-handed thread was most common at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T20:45:57.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15209" CreationDate="2014-01-26T07:09:19.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been motorcycling with my iphone attached with a Ram Mount. No problems ever, and that's constant vibration. I wouldn't worry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9137" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T07:09:19.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-26T10:48:25.340" Score="0" ViewCount="2595" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you had access to a power meter and a heart rate monitor. What sort of training would you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T15:29:53.630" Title="How do I train to gain Tony Martin/Fabian Cancellara/Bradley Wiggins esq abilities to turn over a big gear 58t, 11t,?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-01-29T21:11:02.787" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19103" CreationDate="2014-01-26T14:45:53.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never just tighten one side if a bracket if it isn't tight enough yet. Always do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Untighten the lockring which is not fixed to the bracket (mostly left side).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the bracket inside the frame very, very tight, while the lockring sits at its place very loosely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the lockring again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you may have tightened the lockring, while the bracket wasn't tight enough in the frame yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, let someone hold the bicycle. In this way, you can push your tool tightly in the lockring while using force on the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And mind that the pedals on the cranck need grease, the crancks on the bracket needs grease, and the bracket inside the frame also need grease. Any of these parts can start to squek if no grease is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T14:45:53.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2658" CreationDate="2014-01-26T14:50:31.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Salt is bad, but please mind that washing salt off with a waterhose is also bad. Rain doesn't get into your bearings and chain, while water from a waterhose sometimes does get in nasty places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove salt with some cleaner and some old cloth. Grease your chain again with thin oil. And grease all metal parts (bolts and stuff) with some thick grease such as vasaline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T14:50:31.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19036" CreationDate="2014-01-26T15:01:34.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As bicycle mechanic in the Netherlands, I see a lot of these brakes. The drum shoes can become harder due to wear or age or something. They can also become a bit uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the brake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a good metal file to remove a very thin piece of the drum shoe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the entire drum shoe has a 'new' surface, and make sure this surface is even&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the drum with brake-cleaner or some other de-greasing stuff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-assemble and enjoy your quality retro bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the drum is to worn out, you can easily replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T15:01:34.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18683" CreationDate="2014-01-26T15:24:34.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for a Gazelle or Batavus bike. I know at least Gazelle can be bought in both the UK and the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, look up what it would cost to ship such a bicycle and buy one in the Netherlands. They are widely available both new and used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a old one: You will find that old Dutch city-bikes have a better build quality then many other European brands. However, this does not go for more sports bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T15:24:34.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19136" CreationDate="2014-01-26T15:29:53.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To just turn it over for a short period?  You would just need to have above-average leg strength: the quickest way to gain this strength would just be to do leg strength exercises such as squats, leg presses, etc.  You don't need superhuman levels of leg strength merely to turn over the gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard thing is to turn it over at a good cadence, for an hour at a time.  If you don't have the cardiovascular capacity, your legs will be burning and you'll be gasping for air in short order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To actually make use of the gear you need to have the cardiovascular capacity of be a world-class time-trialist.  The first step there is to be one of the few born with sufficient innate ability.  The second step is to do years of intense training building up your cardiovascular fitness.  After that, you would probably need to work out what your preferred cadence is at time-trial speeds.  If your cadence is slow enough to need the bigger gear, then you probably already have the leg strength needed.  If your cadence is fast enough that you don't need a big gear, then why bother?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8307" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T15:29:53.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18522" CreationDate="2014-01-26T15:34:31.173" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a bicycle mechanic in the Netherlands, I always advice not to use a waterhose. Rain doesn't get into your bearings and chain, while water from a waterhose sometimes does get in nasty places. I sometimes see chains or even a bearing which is rusted because the oil/grease is 'hosed away'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can safely use water out of a bucket, with a sponge. But do not use a hose. Especially not a high-presure hose!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is clean the bicycle entirely with some cleaner without grease. Based on silicon for instance. Spray it on the bicycle, and clean the bicycle with an old cloth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grease your chain again. And grease all metal parts (bolts and stuff) with some thick grease such as vasaline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T15:34:31.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-26T17:42:42.970" Score="10" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen other posts here about winter cycling. But I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada.  Here, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winnipeg#Climate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;our winter weather&lt;/a&gt; can reach -50 °C (-60 °F), and we can also experience gale-force winds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I bike in these conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9141" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T11:45:09.477" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T17:50:04.863" Title="Where I live, winter weather can reach -50 °C (-60 °F), with gale-force winds. How can I bike in these conditions?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;advice&gt;&lt;canada&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19146" CreationDate="2014-01-26T20:46:09.017" Score="1" ViewCount="653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to swap the cranks on our Thorn tandem and would like to know what kind of crank extractor (if any) I need for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to tell from this photo, before I've taken it all apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Photo updated after cap removed (sorry it's a bit blurry). Centre has a thread, is that what I'd screw into and pull?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ovGmU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank centre, cap removed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Thorn list &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/page/find/?name=crank%20extractor&amp;amp;page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;several crank extractors&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2014-01-26T21:28:56.510" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T23:07:19.690" Title="What kind of crank extractor do I need" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19145" CreationDate="2014-01-26T23:07:19.690" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need a specialty tool referred to as a crank remover or crank extractor. A Park Tool CCP22 or something similar. I would suggest considering the Park Tool CWP7 or equivalent as it offers increased flexibility. While the CCP22 is suggested for square shaft interface the CWP7 will do square, splined and octolink. While you only need the square type now the universal design of the CWP7 may come in handy later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T23:07:19.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19150" CreationDate="2014-01-26T23:49:44.167" Score="0" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering upgrading my GF Tarpon to a 27.5&quot; wheelset. Is this possible? And how will affect the ride? In general, I've heard people say no, and some people say yes (nothing specific about this bike, though). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9135" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T00:42:18.533" Title="Upgrading a GF Tarpon to 650B wheelset" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15209" CreationDate="2014-01-27T00:25:42.363" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had my phone attached to the handlebars in a little sleeve made of gaffer tape and some clear plastic I got out of the recycle bin and it's been good for a few years (I've replaced the sleeve thingy a few times as it disintegrated). For protection it's got a strip of high density foam at the back of it so that it doesn't clunk on the gooseneck when I go over bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The phone is smashed to crap, but that's from me dropping it on the ground. I've fixed the glass a couple of times and I can tell you, the innards of those wee things are packed in so tight that vibration is not going to do anything - the'yre not made of clockwork. The rain and mud might be a problem; hitting the road might too, so make sure whatever you use is secure and waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T00:25:42.363" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19147" CreationDate="2014-01-27T00:40:54.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe this is possible for a number of reasons even if the back wheel fits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vee brakes would not work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unlikely to find a 650b wheelset with a 7 speed hub unless you get a custom set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would need a 650B or 29&quot; fork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the cost of a new fork as wheel set you'd likely be able to find a comparably spec'd 650B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T00:40:54.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19147" CreationDate="2014-01-27T00:42:18.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do you want to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with switching wheel sizes is normally the brake mounting for rim brakes, and the tire clearances. I have a feeling that you won't be able to line up the rim brakes when you do this (if you had disc brakes, this would be simpler - if the rotor fits, it works). The following thread &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/surlylht/SLPcw9Br-kM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; says that Velo Orange's Grand Cru canti has enough adjustment for swapping 26&quot; wheels to 650b wheels on some bikes (probably, but would require switching to short pull brake levers) and Paul's MotoBMX brakes may work as well. Your current brakes may or may not have enough adjustment to do this. This is all assuming of course you can even get the 650b wheel in with your desired tire. You could run a staggered setup (650b front, 26&quot; rear) with a new fork at the worst, but this is expensive and likely would require you to adjust things due to the height difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A switch from 26&quot; to 650b will move your bottom bracket up 1/2 an inch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this conversion would be largely pointless, especially on a cheap bike like a Gary Fisher Tarpon. You're better off picking a better tire for your purposes unless you REALLY need the extra half inch of bottom bracket height (in which case, you should probably get a different bike). You'd have to buy new wheels and possibly new brakes, which puts you a good way towards just selling the bike and buying a 27.5&quot; er to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, Sheldon Brown points out that the 700c to 650b conversion can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/650b.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;useful&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T00:42:18.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19143" CreationDate="2014-01-27T03:50:15.370" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As one comment has indicated, you may need to evaluate if cold this extreme is even safe to ride in. If you determine that is is, there are several issues you'll need to address.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of questions here about winter cycling. I went through question with the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/winter&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;winter&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;winter&lt;/a&gt; tag. Here are some of the ones applicable to your situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Breathing&lt;/strong&gt; may be a problem in extreme cold. The traditional solution of putting a balaclava over your nose and mouth and using large goggles may not be enough protection. The question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/19107/8&quot;&gt;How to prevent breathing issues during extreme cold&lt;/a&gt; has an interesting answer about heat exchange masks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A scientific Journal, Chest Journal, published an &lt;a href=&quot;http://journal.publications.chestnet.org/article.aspx?articleid=1084460&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; about the efficiency of heat exchange masks on asthmatic subjects during cold weather exercise. They found that the heat exchanger masks were at least as effective as pre-treatment with albuterol in preventing decline in lung function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seeing&lt;/strong&gt; will prove to be a challenge, and glasses or sunglasses will almost certainly prove to be not nearly enough eye protection from the freezing wind. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/18925/8&quot;&gt;Suggestions for winter cycling glasses?&lt;/a&gt; suggests that downhill MTB goggles, or maybe ski goggles will work. (Be prepared for reduced peripheral vision with any goggles.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire selection&lt;/strong&gt; in the winter is a bit of a black art. Whether you get fat tires or studded tires is largely a matter of the terrain: Lots of snow, or lots of ice? The question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/7722/8&quot;&gt;Fat or Skinny Tires for Winter Riding?&lt;/a&gt; has a great overview of the issues involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the arguments are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fat: You can float on top of the snow and you don-t have to go through it. You have a larger contact patch with the ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skinny: Will find it's way through the snow to find some pavement to grab onto.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Studded: Works great on ice but has no effect on snow/slush/other stuff. (Note never tried studded tires so just speculating).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you want to wear the proper &lt;strong&gt;clothing&lt;/strong&gt; in winter. The traditional advice is to dress in lots of thin, breathable layers, but with temperatures this cold I'd not take any chances. There are many questions on this site tagged &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/winter&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;winter&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;winter&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/clothes&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;clothes&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;clothes&lt;/a&gt;; I'd &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/winter+clothes&quot;&gt;read them all&lt;/a&gt;. Talk to fellow cyclists and see what they wear. Start with short rides until you're confident that you're staying warm enough. Frostbite is a real danger!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gloves&lt;/strong&gt; are important; your hands freezing up an hour from anywhere warm can be a disaster. I'd not skimp on these, possibly layering multiple glove if need be. I've personally never found a single glove warm enough to handle even New Jersey winters, and always need to layer. You might want to look at lobster-claw gloves, cycling mittens, or bar mitts. Gloves with pockets for warming packs are nice, but do nothing to protect your fingers from being frozen. Also see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/5662/8&quot;&gt;What gloves work well for winter riding?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shoes&lt;/strong&gt; should be warm, and also windproof. You'll need to layer socks, possibly even getting boots a size too big to fit them. What your options are here will depend greatly on whether you use plain platform pedals, toe clips and straps, or clipless pedals. Personally, I prefer plain platform pedals when riding on ice, removing clips and straps for ease of dismounting in an emergency. But I've heard good things about riding clipless on a fixie in the ice. (I'd be afraid to try it, personally.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most &lt;strong&gt;bike helmets&lt;/strong&gt; are designed to cool the head as well as provide impact protection. However, since you'll be wanting to hang on to heat, I'd investigate helmets specifically for cold weather. See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/995/8&quot;&gt;Using a ski helmet for winter biking&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/1743/8&quot;&gt;Why don't cyclists wear all-encompassing motorcycle-style helmets?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Freezing weather can be tough on bikes, particularly if there's road salt in your area. &lt;strong&gt;Cleaning&lt;/strong&gt; a bike in winter presents special challenges. See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18522/how-do-i-clean-my-bike-in-winter&quot;&gt;How do I clean my bike in winter?&lt;/a&gt; You'll obviously be cleaning your bike indoors, not washing it down with a hose outdoors!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T08:09:17.923" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19167" CreationDate="2014-01-27T03:57:49.670" Score="0" ViewCount="2066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one of the older style seat clamps, the one with the bolt all the way through it with two male ends that tighten on either side. I'm not sure if the bolt side goes to the front of the post or the back of the post, or if it makes a difference. I have it to the front right now because it makes the seat closer to the bars and shortens the cockpit nicely, but looking at my friends bike, it seems like it may go the other way, and I don't want to bend or break anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which way is the seat clamp supposed to go, to the front or the back? Does it make a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the clamp:&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zkYYi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;clampy clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8649" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T16:07:42.663" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T16:07:42.663" Title="Which way does the seat clamp go on the post?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19179" CreationDate="2014-01-27T04:24:01.273" Score="11" ViewCount="7849" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just ordered a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oneupcomponents.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OneUp Components 42T sprocket&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raceface.com/components/rings/rings/single-ring-narrow-wide/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Race Face 30T Narrow/Wide single ring&lt;/a&gt; so that I can convert my 3x10 drive train into a 1x10.  This means that I'll be removing the front derailleur all together.  I have a carbon frame with internal cable routing so once I've removed the shifter cable there will be open &quot;ports&quot; in the frame.  Is it important to plug these ports?  What might happen if I don't plug them?  There is one where the cable enters at the top of the frame, and one under the bottom bracket where the cable exits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cEYJo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5021" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T22:44:55.103" Title="Do I need to plug internal cable routing ports?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19143" CreationDate="2014-01-27T08:27:20.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest getting neoprene covers for shoes and/or neoprene socks, which keep your feet warm even if they get wet from melting snow/slush from the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride clipless, make sure to get some insulation between the bolts for the pads and your feet. My SPD shoes have a metal plate on the inside that gets quite cold while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had Pearl Izumi lobster gloves when I rode to school/uni on a daily basis and they're really quite warm. But beware: These kinds of gloves need to really fit, so you need to try them on in conditions most similar to your hand position on the bike. Especially if the fingers are too short, they will get cold and/or painful very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware of motorists! Most of them overestimate their tyre's capacity to handle snow/ice. Also beware of sharp corners, depressions in the road where water may collect etc. An accident in this kind of weather, even if the injuries are minor, is very, very bad. Lying on the ground even for only a few minutes will pose a major health risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T08:27:20.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19154" CreationDate="2014-01-27T11:39:42.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would plug them. If left open you will have the chance of water ,dirt, etc, inside the frame. The water and grit will eventually make its way to the bottom bracket. Even if the bearings are sealed it will still get on the threads of the bearing shell or threaded inset potentially making it difficult to remove.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T11:39:42.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24537" CreationDate="2014-01-27T13:52:43.397" Score="3" ViewCount="1492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just built up a new frame and discovered that, due to slightly different geometry the rear disc caliper can't be adjusted so that it doesn't rub. Basically I've got them all the way over to one side and it's still not enough. Can I fix this without getting new brake calipers? They're Shimano BR-M406 hydraulic caliper BTW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T16:09:01.187" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T13:18:28.533" Title="What to do when there's no more adjustment room on disc brakes" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19163" CreationDate="2014-01-27T15:07:38.433" Score="1" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the BR-M445L + BL-M505L a month ago. I am new to hydraulic disc brakes, so I can't tell if there is any problem with air in the system or other problems. Asked a mechanic and he said the brake is fine, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unsure how to describe the problem. The lever feels &lt;em&gt;awkward&lt;/em&gt;. The pivot point of the lever is too far forward (compared to Avid Elixir and other levers with the oil cylinder along the hose direction). I feel as if the lever is just too far from my fingers to comfortably squeeze. And I can't reduce the reach from the adjustment screw, because it then hits against my glove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is bad enough when using 2 fingers, but is terrible when using only one finger - the lever hits my middle finder and the travel is insufficient to actuate the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there something fundamentally wrong with this lever design, at least for some cyclists. Or some trick that is a must-do (I installed the already bled system myself)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brake:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ED0HC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Normal&quot; brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kAOIR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T01:03:01.340" Title="What is the matter with this Shimano disc brake lever?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19143" CreationDate="2014-01-27T17:04:33.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biking-oriented gear is generally unsuitable for very cold temperatures — though things have gotten better in recent years, it seems lots of 'winter' biking gear is oriented towards 50 °F California winters.  I'd look at ski gear and Army surplus extreme cold gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Civia (of Minneapolis, Winnipeg's balmy southern neighbor) has an all-weather clothing guide, but it only gets down to -10 °F (-25 °C):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.civiacycles.com/whattowear/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.civiacycles.com/whattowear/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;45NRTH is an Alaskan company that makes some pretty serious gear, and has a guide for biking down to -25 °F:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://45nrth.com/blog/post/what-to-wear-25-to-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://45nrth.com/blog/post/what-to-wear-25-to-10&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="5702" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T02:07:47.477" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T02:07:47.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19164" CreationDate="2014-01-27T21:06:24.307" Score="0" ViewCount="4352" Body="&lt;p&gt;My free hub body has cracked and im looking to replace it. I have discovered it uses a 14mm hex key to remove. I cannot find a freehub body for sale that matches m785.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will a &quot;m760-m765&quot; body fit my &quot;m785&quot; hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2018-12-27T17:17:32.517" Title="Shimano rear hub body compatibility" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19153" CreationDate="2014-01-27T21:42:12.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;the bolt should be behind the post. but it doesn't HAVE to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it fits better with it in front and the angle of the seat is comfortable it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8970" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T21:42:12.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19159" CreationDate="2014-01-28T01:03:01.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to use these brakes 1 fingered, I would recommend moving them to the inside of your shifters to remove the overlap with your middle finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have all my brakes set up like this and it works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/shifters-inboard-outboard-brakes-469987.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HFr4Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inboarded brake lever&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T01:03:01.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19161" CreationDate="2014-01-28T01:11:54.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/FH/EV-FH-M785-3174_v1_m56577569830753751.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; Shimano tech doc has the relevant part numbers for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Y3CZ98040, I think. You may want just part of it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also has a handy interchangeability table, that tells me a freehub body from an M985 or M775 would work too, but might be the wrong colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can look up more &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp?ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051947&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T01:11:54.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19174" CreationDate="2014-01-28T01:24:24.740" Score="9" ViewCount="13942" Body="&lt;p&gt;From reading around on the internet I understand that pannier bags are comfortable to ride long distances with on a bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my current rough travel plan I decided I also want to (hitch)hike a large part of the journey, so I would need a regular backpack (±70L).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the costs down I wondered if there's some sort of hybrid pannier bag that not only can be hooked on to a bike, but also to a &quot;body harness&quot; in practice becoming a backpack.&#xA;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://nymb.co/products/vaya-bags-bicycle-pannier-backpack&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.therandonneeshop.com/products/category/12-pannier-backpack_hybrids&quot;&gt;hybrids&lt;/a&gt; but these are small and have far less volume than a hiking backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So does a system where I can carry multiple pannier bags on my back exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6852" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T00:28:50.840" Title="Does a hybrid pannier / backpack exist?" Tags="&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19153" CreationDate="2014-01-28T02:07:25.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you align the gap of the clamp to sit over the gap of the seat post, you'll need much less clamping force to keep the seat from sliding down into the seat tube. There are likely some riders who place the clamp in a position they like strictly for the aesthetics, while others go for functionality. From what I remember, the position is determined by how much force you intend to apply to keep the seat from moving left, right, or down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4975" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T02:07:25.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19165" CreationDate="2014-01-28T02:11:11.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is to modify a rack so you can attach a backpack to it. I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.geek.nz/mozbike/ride/nz-2004/12-12-buller/nztour-buller-12-moz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;seen this done&lt;/a&gt;, but unfortunately we didn't have a common language to discuss how well it worked. This guy had built the whole rack himself so it included a stand as well as the pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mRH6w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bike rack with backpack mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I would approach your problem, simply because panniers are all smaller than even a small backpack. It wouldn't be too hard to make a shelf at the bottom of the rack (probably below axle height) that would support the bottom of the backpack. It would be easier to use a travel pack to get the cover over the straps (straps and spoked wheels are a bad combination), but you could attach a sheet of ripstop nylon to the rack to get the same effect, or just put the worst of the straps facing out like this guy did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My oversize panniers (bigger than an Ortleib rear pannier) are still only 60 litres or so, and they're ridiculously large by bicycle standards. For comparison, my ultralight backpack is also 60 litres and it's explicitly &quot;extreme&quot; and designed for people willing to spend their way out of size and weight problems. For real walks I use an 80+ litre pack and often strap extra stuff to the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T03:06:41.197" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T03:06:41.197" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19143" CreationDate="2014-01-28T12:29:36.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to protect your hands and feet, I recommend some sort of active heating. If my hands are clumsy from a lack of circulation, or if my foot gets frost bites, the other issues discussed are of secondary concern to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, there are three types: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heating pads that generate heat from oxidation of a metal-coal powder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heating pads that generate heat from a liquid-solid phase transition that is triggered by pressing a small metal that floats in the liquid phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;electrical devices that contain thin wires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, each type has its pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@1 pro: can last for up to 6 hours, thin enough to fit everywhere&#xA;   con: not reversible, needs some initial heat &amp;amp; oxygen, which, at times, results in some time until heat is generated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@2 pro: usually the cheapest alternative, after treatment with hot water, the material becomes liquid again and is ready for reuse&#xA;   con: to have substantial heat, you need some volume of the material, i.e. it cannot be used in shoes, it can be too thick to be able to fine tune your breaking power (it might not even be legal according to traffic laws to use them); usually, the heat is generated for (only) around 1 hour, i.e. for longer times, you have to carry additional pads &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@3 pro: you can switch these on and off, and depending on the type, can adjust the heating power in between&#xA;   con: depending on the exact product, you have to fiddle with additional cables and storage of batteries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I'd check electrical heating, but try the coal/metal heating pads first. However, I doubt that the coal/metal heating pads would generate sufficient heat at -50 °C. This also means, I'd check that the heating power of the electrical system is &quot;exceptional&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T12:29:36.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17407" CreationDate="2014-01-28T12:50:20.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Still thinking about it? Here's one I did last year, rides like a dream, You will probably need a new (threaded) driver for your SA three speed hub. Available from OldBikeTrader for £15, or from any pre 1951 SA hub. To go with that you want a basic derailleur rear mech and changer(5 speed ideal), pennies from e-bay. You might have to switch to a longer (6 1/4 inch) axle for your hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stripping and reassembling SA hubs is not hard as long as you are careful and organised. Excellent video guides on youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos of finished article here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/31231726@N03/8554241017/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/31231726@N03/8554241017/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/photos/31231726@N03/8554243339/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flickr.com/photos/31231726@N03/8554243339/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Youtube stripdown guide here: &#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ea6krXSs-lc?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9158" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T12:50:20.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16871" CreationDate="2014-01-28T13:26:07.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crank manufacturers specify a BB length for a given chain line. Track drivetrains can vary from 42mm to 46mm (measured from the centreline of the bike). To complicate matters, Miche switched from ISO BBs to JIS BBs. You can use a JIS (eg. Shimano UN50-series) BB with an ISO crank, but for the same chainline, the reqired JIS BB would be a few mm shorter than the &lt;strong&gt;correct&lt;/strong&gt; ISO BB...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a BB that brings the crank inwards 2mm each side, the spider arms (where the chainring bolts on) may hit the chainstays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the frame in question but on a fixed/singlespeed drivetrain, the tooth profiles tend to be taller and wider to prevent derailing. Running the chain out of alignment will increase wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;tl;dr&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;strong&gt;Measure the hub, then measure the chainring posision with whatever BB you have. If the numbers don't match, change the BB.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastEditorUserId="7984" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T09:45:17.923" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T09:45:17.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19165" CreationDate="2014-01-28T16:57:29.707" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. I own a north st bags convertible pannier and think it works great.  It hangs a bit low, so don't try and use it on low rider racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://northstbags.com/products/woodward&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://northstbags.com/products/woodward&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yy12p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;North St Bags convertible pannier / backpack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see Richard Jones Convertible Backpack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.convertiblebackpacks.us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.convertiblebackpacks.us/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hzrhP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Richard Jones Convertible Backpack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try WOHO bags &quot;NINJA NINJA&quot; convertible backpack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wohobike.com/product.php?linkid=133&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wohobike.com/product.php?linkid=133&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F8j9B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;WOHO bags&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T19:34:57.900" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T19:34:57.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19165" CreationDate="2014-01-28T17:32:08.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to carry a full-sized hiking backpack, your best option might be securing it into a BOB-type trailer. A big backpack would be hard to mount to one side of a bicycling without doing terrible things to weight distribution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 25L Timbuk2 Especial Viaje backpack/pannier for commuting, and it works well for that but is already pretty heavy on one side of the bike when loaded up. The plastic pannier hardware also isn't super rugged— I broke one of the hooks and had to send for a replacement after a minor fall while taking a short tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;Actually, though, I haven't heard about the Richard Jones Convertible in another answer before. It looks like the real best answer to this question, and appears to be designed for exactly this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="5702" LastEditDate="2014-01-31T17:59:58.727" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T17:59:58.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17407" CreationDate="2014-01-28T17:49:53.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a local bike coop, they're likely to have pretty much all of what you need very cheaply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bolt-on derailluer hangers, as used on old Schwinns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a freewheel wheel in the appropriate size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;basic friction shifter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rock-solid old friction derailleur, e.g. Suntour Vx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T17:49:53.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19165" CreationDate="2014-01-28T22:02:11.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Such a thing does exist and it's the best! I own an Arkel &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/us/all-categories/laptop-bicycle-pannier/sherpack-backpack-bag.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sherpack&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/us/all-categories/bicycle-bike-pannier-rack/arkel-randonneur-rack.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Randonneur rack&lt;/a&gt;. The rack is great because I don't have any mounting points on my frame for traditional panniers. The rack hold very tight. I have commuted with two hefty laptops, lunch, and a change of clothes on it. I've been doing that kind of thing for well over a year. Everything has held up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pack has a sleeve on the back into which the rack slides. You can secure, with a buckle that comes on the pack, the pack to your seat post. If the bag is full it doesn't move. If the bag is kind of empty and things can slide around I notice when I get off that things can be drooped to one side but I never notice while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pack's sleeve on the back unzips and can be tucked away in a velcro compartment on the bottom (inside of which you can also keep a rain fly). It turns into a hiking day pack with hip and chest strap in like 10 seconds. I have hiked with a 3 litre bladder in the interior pouch too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pack is by no means 70 L ( I think it is 22) but it is still a great compromise. Light commuter, easy access, fully functioning regular backpack. I've really enjoyed mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4574" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T22:02:11.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19154" CreationDate="2014-01-28T22:44:55.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were me, I'd do it ,but I don't think it's necessary. Frames of all materials will have drain ports in them. My carbon Focus road bike,for example, will have water pouring out of. Frame when held vertically after a very wet commute, this is how it was designed. Metal frames have holes to allow welding gasses to escape, water can drain from these. So,plug them if you can, but if not, don't worry about it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T22:44:55.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18068" CreationDate="2014-01-28T22:46:58.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Petrol/lighter fuel might be worth a try...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T22:46:58.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-29T01:45:18.777" Score="1" ViewCount="1715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know dérailleur adjustments are frustrating, but this is the 4th day i'm working on this... i stop working just before the rage kicks in and leave everything to continue another day :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is: on the lowest (smallest) gear on front, the guide(?) gear from the dérailleur will grind on half the low (larger) gears on back. on the middle front gear (have 3) only the lowest (larger) gear on back grinds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I have:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EbBqB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano RD-MT60, Deore&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=3f73f16c-1a7e-46c5-ab73-f21755e71b08&amp;amp;Enum=108&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=3f73f16c-1a7e-46c5-ab73-f21755e71b08&amp;amp;Enum=108&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is not my picture, but the distance from the guide gear to the lowest rear gear is almost the same. it makes a wicked noise on pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps I did last, was to start all over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moved index to highest (small) gear. i.e. less pull on cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;removed cable from derailleur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;left P-screw half inserted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loosened H-screw (bottom) until it stopped moving outward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screwed in H-screw until it aligned with highest (small) cog.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pulled the derailleur arm with one hand down and into the wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjusted the L-screw (top) until arm stopped moving to the wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screwed in L-screw until arm was aligned with Lowest (big) cog.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let go of arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjust cable fine tune to be almost fully inserted in thread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;secured cable on derailleur with almost no pull.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pulled cable to remove slack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;re-tightened cable again with almost no pull. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tested index shifting with front on middle gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjusted fine cable pull screw for tight second and penultimate gear shifts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;noticed grind on lowest gear (large).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screwed in P-screw. nothing changed. rage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tried with front derraileur on highest (small) gear. grinding now on half the low gears on back. more rage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am i doing wrong here? What else can control the proximity of the guide pulley/gear and the low gears other than the P-screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T20:49:52.173" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T09:23:47.800" Title="derailleur P-screw/B-screw does absolutely nothing" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;adjustment-screw&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19185" CreationDate="2014-01-29T10:07:05.280" Score="9" ViewCount="6367" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some areas of the world, cars are allowed to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snow_chains&quot;&gt;snow chains&lt;/a&gt; (or cables) in order to increase traction on ice and snow. This is slightly complicated on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/tirechains.htm&quot;&gt;bicycles&lt;/a&gt;, but has been done. The main problems seem to be the chain being fixed to the tire while avoiding the rims (for brakes; presumably this can be relaxed for bikes with disc brakes to grab around the rims). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to installing tire chains, various manufacturers have been selling &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snow_socks&quot;&gt;snow socks (wraps)&lt;/a&gt; for car tires, which are temporary stretchable covers for your tires designed to increase traction in winter driving conditions without having to install chains or specific winter tires. While I haven't used them, they seem to be helpful for occasional cases where all season tires are not comfortably enough. It seems like some of them work on changing texture due to water absorption due to tire heating (which I don't think will happen on a bicycle, but depending on absorption rate, could be pre-treated with warm water before riding), while others start textured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anybody offer snow socks for bicycles? (I was not able to find them, but I'm guessing you could stitch together a set for both tires from one car snow sock, possibly with some additional fastenings to prevent the cover from rolling off. I also did not see a similar product for motorcycles.). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they exist: Has anyone tried to use snow socks on bicycles? If so, did they offer a significant advantage over running a smooth road tire or a non-smooth commuter tire such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geax.com/en/products/?cat=6&amp;amp;prod=25&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (or alternatively, some knobby variety of tire) without the sock?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they do not exist: Does anyone have some theoretical insights to the last problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize there are two issues here - snow and ice, which are related but somewhat distinct due to the types of snow and ice, so characterizations in both cases would be useful. Snow socks are useful for on-road use, so lets restrict the answers to the case for on-road use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is primarily of theoretical interest, given the installation times for snow chains being longer than a tire swap, but snow socks should be quicker if they can be fastened to the tire around the rim as in the disc brake case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T10:14:44.127" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T18:00:47.637" Title="Snow Tire Wraps for Bicycles" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;snow&gt;&lt;ice&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19102" CreationDate="2014-01-29T15:39:38.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generalisations on child-carrying trailers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Based on stroller designs, so suspension is rare.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small wheels on cheaper designs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat is positioned for visibility and for an adult not to stoop too far to attend to the child. This is bad for stability and aerodynamics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Built like tents: frame with some kind of fabric over it. I've seen trailers/strollers with mesh fronts and ones with rollable plastic fronts, but as the overall shape remains a modified brick with fluttering fabric, I doubt they'll be very aerodynamic. Your velomobile is designed to have a minimised wake, so the trailer gains no aerodynamic advantage from following it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do: Make my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a suspended cargo trailer or design and construct one from tubular sections of aluminium or steel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a fibreglass clamshell from scratch &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kingcycle.co.uk/page8.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;using insulation board for the former, like the Kingsbury Quattro&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or find a junk fibreglass boathull, invert it and add a vertical section until the interior height is sufficient. Fit a polycarb window on each side, but your child probably won't appreciate a porthole which shows the rear of your velomobile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use good hinges and hydraulic struts to hold the shell open (like a car hatchback)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the shell needs catches or straps to hold it shut, there should be a release mechanism on the inside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T15:39:38.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19183" CreationDate="2014-01-29T17:23:51.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's kind of goofy and requires a bit of time to do, but you can zip tie your wheels to make snow wheels. While they aren't reusable if you remove them, it's a fairly cheap method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a brief &lt;a href=&quot;http://lifehacker.com/5719594/zip-tie-snow-tires-the-cheapest-way-to-blizzard+proof-your-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;overview/guide&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then I went and found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slipnottraction.com/bike-tire-chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; too. They are supposed to work with all brake systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the socks go, I couldn't find anything smaller than automotive tires. However, I've got an idea that might work: place a larger volume tire over the current tire. You could get one with a lot more tread/studded etc. Another alternative would be sewing some tubes together, but I don't think tube material is going to do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last resort would be to buy an automotive wheel snow sock and cut it down to bicycle sized dimensions. Probably a lot of work, but until they make a specialized one that's about all you can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T19:02:16.753" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T19:02:16.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19008" CreationDate="2014-01-29T17:46:15.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a quick suggestion. I ride mtb and after I get back into the swing of riding I learn to push the bike ahead of me more. This allows the bike to do more of the trail work. There are different styles of riding and some riders won't put to the limit of needing to dab. If you dab you lose some of your flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T17:46:15.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20716" CreationDate="2014-01-29T19:30:59.630" Score="8" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the photo below, what is the trainer that is attached to the bike?  Are these custom fab?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o1O5I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spinning device&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="4333" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T12:08:14.497" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T12:08:14.497" Title="What is this &quot;recumbent&quot; trainer?" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;&lt;history&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18478" CreationDate="2014-01-29T20:13:27.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've encountered the same issue, and have tried a 'quicksteel' type metal repair putty. I'll se how it goes. If it's no good, I'll buy some feeler gauges and make shims from the thinnest strips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9171" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T20:13:27.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19192" CreationDate="2014-01-29T20:48:39.353" Score="1" ViewCount="1072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that cutting material out makes a bike lighter, but at some point there must be a crossover between weight and aerodynamics. Since tri-bikes and track bikes have more oval/flat shaped tubes, you'd think that closing off the entire front triangle would improve aerodynamics even more. And making it out of carbon fiber wouldn't add too much weight. See also the use of enclosed wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, outside of the obvious reasons of weight and the loss of a bottle cage, why wouldn't you want to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T11:01:41.450" Title="Why don't race bikes have solid front triangles?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19190" CreationDate="2014-01-29T21:25:18.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary reason is weight. Round tubes are very strength to weight efficient. Putting a lot of material where no strength is needed is not efficient. Also for most Tour de France road riding aero is not as important as weight. The other factor is a large flat panel can be affected by cross-winds, very dangerous in a peleton. Full disc wheels while popular once are less common for this reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9126" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T21:25:18.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19190" CreationDate="2014-01-29T22:14:24.983" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much of this is due to UCI regulations. They specify what shape and size of frame can be used. It is not allowed to add extra parts just for improving aerodynamics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the UCI document &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/Modules/BUILTIN/getObject.asp?MenuId=MTkzNg&amp;amp;ObjTypeCode=FILE&amp;amp;type=FILE&amp;amp;id=NTI0MDY&amp;amp;LangId=1&quot;&gt;Technical Regulations For Bicycles - A Practical Guide To Implementation&lt;/a&gt; (PDF) which covers most of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it says for Article 1.3.020, the frame elements must be tubular, with a maximum transverse dimension of 8 cm and a minimum transverse dimension of 2.5 cm, in a maximum ratio of 1:3. Also Article 1.3.024 &quot;Protective screens, aerodynamic shapes, fairings or any other device that is added or forms part of the structure, and that is destined or has the effect of reducing wind resistance, are prohibited.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be possible to make a more aerodynamic bike that was not allowed by the UCI. But you would be restricted by what races it could be ridden in. A few brands have mode non-UCI compliant race bikes, mostly designed for triathlon. eg some versions of the Specialized Transition or Shiv, which have extra aerodynamic tubes etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T22:14:24.983" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19190" CreationDate="2014-01-29T23:14:04.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The aerodynamic is not the only the issue in the road race bike. The most of the time in the road race the racers ride inside the peloton protected from head wind and have no aerodynamic problem at all. Moreover, at the mountain parts of the race aerodynamic plays no role in the race, but weight and stiffness of the frame do. You can find the TdF racers used light low profile non-aerodynamic rims on the mountain stages. The road race bike is a compromise of the many problems, where aerodynamics is not the most important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T23:14:04.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17233" CreationDate="2014-01-30T02:35:32.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find the model of your rear derailleur by looking on the backside for a stamp with Shimano's part number. Something like &quot;tx55&quot;. You might have to flip the bike over and use a flashlight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T02:35:32.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2014-01-30T09:17:21.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To loosen: &#xA;Bike upright. (like normal)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wrench on from the top (which is normal - why would I try put a wrench on a pedal from the bottom when its upright??), &#xA;pull back. &quot;Back off Jack&quot; &#xA;By far the easiest way to remember. (3 steps, 2 are obvious, just remember &quot;Back off Jack&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9176" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T09:17:21.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19199" CreationDate="2014-01-30T16:57:49.280" Score="4" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just about to buy a new bike.  It comes with Shimano R501 wheels, which are rather lightly spoked (20 front, 24 rear).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I weigh about 230lbs (I'm 6'6&quot;) - do you think it'll be worth getting a better pair of wheels with more spokes?  Or will I be well within the tolerance levels for the wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T02:59:21.833" Title="Wheel spokes &amp; strength" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18522" CreationDate="2014-01-30T18:53:21.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second the sponge batch method from a bucket of warm water. It's what I do in Minnesota during the winter and it's a good idea to rinse the deicing salt off your bike if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also suggest that a few times during the winter you do a light service in your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should disassemble your bottom bracket and make sure water isn't trapped in there. You're definitely riding in a harsher climate and salt and water can play havoc with bearings quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to clean and lube your derailleur pivot points, keep your chain well lubed and make sure that the threads of the screws used on your bike have grease on them to prevent corrosion or worse galvanic bonding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T18:53:21.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14945" CreationDate="2014-01-30T19:34:20.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a 2-speed using a chain tensioner &amp;amp; front derailleur, but without much of a gear difference:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://saddleupbike.blogspot.com/2010/11/two-speed-bicycle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://saddleupbike.blogspot.com/2010/11/two-speed-bicycle.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use a rear derailleur, you probably want to make sure you're using a mountain or road triple derailleur with a long cage so you have sufficient 'tooth capacity', as mentioned above. And if you're using a vintage part, make sure the spring isn't worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also several examples of retro-direct conversions on the internet, which are a 2-speed bicycle with 2 cogs, each having the freewheel clutch operating in the opposite direction, and the chain running around both. You engage one cog by pedaling forward and the other by pedaling backward. This allows for a pretty significant difference in gear ratios. Here's a bunch of pictures from a Czech dude:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://matej.boha.cz/retrodirect/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://matej.boha.cz/retrodirect/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;There are a bunch of other examples out there if you search for 'retrodirect'. I wouldn't put too big of a bet on the durability of such a cobbled setup, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking as someone who's ridden across the US, you'll want a very low gear for cranking an ~80-ish lb. loaded touring bike up 4000'+ passes— probably close to, or even below, 1:1. You'll want a relatively low gear just for cruising all day at 12 or 13mph when you're lugging that weight. You'll probably want another gear for days when you're fighting a headwind all day, and another for when you're sailing the prairies on a mighty tailwind at 25mph+. And when you're lugging your touring load up and down rolling hills in, say, Kentucky, you'll want to change gears rather often. I reckon what I'm saying is that gears are really great for a cross-country touring bike, which sees incredibly varied conditions under very heavy load, even if gears are not so necessary around town. Even if you're on a really tight budget, something like the Windsor Tourist is pretty cheap, and you can find things even cheaper on the used market this time of year, especially considering you have 3 or 4 months until a summer and the likely start of a tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T19:34:20.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19196" CreationDate="2014-01-30T20:22:25.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fewer spokes doesn't necessarily mean a weaker wheel, there are many many variables to consider. Ideally you have a salesman you can trust, or these wheels are online ( link? ) and there are reviews to read. It also depends what you're using these wheels for, of course, a casual road ride isn't likely to do any harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate, if you're stuck with the wheels on the bike, you should just use them until they give you trouble as DRH mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#spokes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#spokes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6088/what-are-the-advantages-or-disadvantages-of-different-spoke-styles&quot;&gt;What are the advantages or disadvantages of different spoke styles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T20:22:25.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14109" CreationDate="2014-01-30T23:45:14.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I confronted this problem when temps dropped into the single digits here in Maryland, USA.  My face-protector covers the bottom half of my face, channeling exhalations up around my nose and onto my goggles.  I tried different eyewear, spit, and sewing a fabric barrier across the top of the protector.  But the best solution was the simplest.  Taping the top of the face protector to my face forced my breath downward and solved the problem completely.  Yes, I did in fact do this with duct tape, but then remembered that I had some medical tape, the tearable kind used with IVs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lacking ski-goggles, I donned an old pair of Speedo swim goggles that worked swimmingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9181" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T23:45:14.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19165" CreationDate="2014-01-31T00:43:31.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode with a nice Arkel pannier during my first year of bike commuting, but attaching and removing became tedious.  Now, I have two rear-mount Wald folding basket panniers.  I use a large messenger backpack for my daily commute that slides easily in and out one of the baskets.  Likewise, my reusable grocery bags become my panniers when shopping.  They may not be stylish, but they're sure convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9181" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T00:43:31.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19020" CreationDate="2014-01-31T06:09:10.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not brifters, but you can take your downtube shifters and use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.retroshift.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;retroshift levers&lt;/a&gt; to get combined brake and and shifting. Essentially, they bolt a downtube shifter onto the hoods. Pretty cheap and reviews are generally positive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fitting more gears, you may be able to get a 7 speed freewheel, but you may better off taking your 6 speed freewheel to the LBS and swapping it one with better spacing between the cogs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires in 27&quot; aren't too limited (Conti makes gatorskins in 27 inch, panaracer has some, etc.). But if you need to move to 700C, you need to make sure you can move your brakes down by 4 ish due to the 700c diameter change. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels/630.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;selection of new 27&quot; wheels&lt;/a&gt; is more limited though (Sun CR-18, etc.), though can be found. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-01-31T06:21:31.237" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T06:21:31.237" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14189" CreationDate="2014-01-31T08:01:47.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try doing some intervals. Example: try doing 3 x 5 min efforts each hour. (Or 4 x 5 min, 3 x 10 min etc.) Don't go too hard though -- just enough to liven things up -- you need to conserve your energy when touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9184" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T08:01:47.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-31T08:58:29.303" Score="2" ViewCount="59735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting to reassemble my bicycle after it was shipped across the US. All is well; except one pedal cannot be screwed back in because the thread in the crank is stripped. The pedal itself seems to be fine thread wise, but I cannot screw it into the crank. I don't drive, and I live much closer to a home depot then a bicycle shop; I'm wondering if anyone has any repair suggestions? I bought a wrench to take the crank and arms off, but apparently I need additional tool too get it off; this was just an attempt at having more leverage to try and and screw the pedal in from the top. Anyone have any DIY suggestions? WD40, thread repair of sorts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the thread isn't completely stripped: just the first three or four threads at the entry point. I picked up some EPX cyle grease this evening, which I'll try tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4386" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2018-03-18T15:41:51.673" LastActivityDate="2018-03-18T15:41:51.673" Title="Crank pedal spindle hole thread stripped" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19204" CreationDate="2014-01-31T09:17:04.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all the thread is stripped, there is not much you can do (I saw on the forum here, that you can weld it inside, then make new thread). If only the start of the thread is stripped, try the next:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. put a little grease inside&#xA;2. screw the pedal from the other side of the arm (i.e. the pedal will be below the BB) to the end&#xA;3. unscrew the pedal, and insert it in the right position. It can correct the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T09:17:04.467" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19204" CreationDate="2014-01-31T11:01:57.270" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get parts to fix this, like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeman.com/Thread_Repair.html&quot;&gt;helicoil&lt;/a&gt; that work by cutting a new, larger thread into the crank then adding a spacer to bring it back to the correct size. They parts are relatively cheap, but the tool to cut the new thread is expensive. Which means that if you can find a bike shop with the tools it's going to cost quite a bit to have them do the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's almost always going to be cheaper to simply find a second hand crank that fits, or if that fails buy a new crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the rest of the tools, it might be worth buying a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997&quot;&gt;cheap bicycle tool kit&lt;/a&gt; rather than buying one tool at a time or travelling long distances to a bike shop. There are a number of specialised tools needed if you you're going to completely strip down a bike, and buying them one at a time adds up. My suggestion is buy the cheap-but-reasonable-quality set, then as you wear out the tools replace them with decent ones. That way the tools you barely use or where the cheap tool works well enough never get replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T11:01:57.270" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19020" CreationDate="2014-01-31T21:02:16.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can indeed upgrade an older frame to more gears, by installing a cassette hub wheel. It's generally more expensive to rebuild a wheelset on an existing hubs than to buy a decent pre-built set, so it's likely you'll want to replace the wheels with a 700c set. Then you can install brifters to shift the cassette, though you'll probably also want to replace the rear derailleur with one designed for indexing. You'll probably need to cold-set the frame, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simpler way to bring shifters onto the bars is to use an old set of Suntour friction barend shifters. Installing a modern freewheel with ramped teeth also makes for simpler shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T21:02:16.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19204" CreationDate="2014-02-01T01:21:25.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loctite makes a product called Form-A-Thread part #236382. The kit contains an epoxy and a release agent that forms the new threads using the pedal threads as a mold. I have never used it on anything as large as a pedal. It is also not a cheap repair as a kit can cost upwards of $30. Checking the prices of an oversized tap and helicoil or repair bushing kit your local shop should be able to repair for less than you buying the tools. I am all for buying tools and doing my own repairs but this is hopefully a once in a lifetime repair. It doesn't make financial sense to buy the tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T01:21:25.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19165" CreationDate="2014-02-01T05:47:48.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detours Ballard market bag pannier. This is what I carry. It can be used as either a backpack or shoulder bag. One of its advantages is that it's a bit more fashionable and less &quot;bike-bag&quot; in appearance for those looking for such a thing. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.detours.us/panniers/ballard-market-pannier.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.detours.us/panniers/ballard-market-pannier.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bontrager market bag pannier. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bontrager.com/model/09573&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bontrager.com/model/09573&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T05:47:48.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19109" CreationDate="2014-02-02T00:16:30.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a regular Schrader valve like you will find on many car tires.&#xA;Your pump (if it is a bike pump) should have something to pump this up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, head to your local service station and try their car pump. &#xA;Alternatively, hit up a bike store, they should be able to get air in that for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9197" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-02-02T02:25:24.257" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T02:25:24.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-02T04:33:18.410" Score="0" ViewCount="892" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upgrading my french PX-10e with shimano 105 cranks. What bottom bracket can I use with this 68mm bottom bracket with french threading?  Is there a threadless BB available? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9201" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T05:52:44.710" Title="Peugeot PX-10 with Shimano 105 Triple with BB-6700" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19212" CreationDate="2014-02-02T05:17:37.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Velo-Orange makes &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/grand-cru-threadless-bottom-brackets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;threadless&lt;/a&gt; BB's and &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/grand-cru-bottom-brackets-hollow-axle-alloy-cups-1121.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;French threaded&lt;/a&gt; BB's under their Grand Cru line. There is always also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.philwood.com/products/bbhome.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phil Wood&lt;/a&gt; if you're rolling in money. They are all JIS (square) tapered. Some other companies (like Stronglight) have also made threadless bb's (for frames which typically have had their threads ruined) in the past - I don't know if this is current. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely sure what BB-6700 has to do with this, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I see why BB-6700 may be there - you're trying to get a hollowtech/octalink/some other type of setup going. As far as I know, nobody makes a product which will allow you to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have to force some other BB on there and ruin the threads for the BB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take the frame to a frame builder and see if they can do some magic to get one of these things in. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano does still make new cranksets which are JIS tapered in the Sora line, but if you want something fancier, you'll have to go with an older used crankset. You can always get nice new replacement chainrings if they're a bit worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Just saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.philwood.com/products/bbpages/outboard.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the outboard bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt; page from Phil Wood. Its expensive, but I think it may work depending on the crankset you want to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-02T05:52:44.710" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T05:52:44.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4910" CreationDate="2014-02-02T08:45:59.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked around the internet to find any evidence of the effects of tire liners on speed, but couldn't find any. I was considering using them while touring. So, I did my own test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a mid-range steel framed tourer with Schwalbe 26&quot; x 1 3/8 Delta Cruisers. The tubes are Bontrager. I installed the liners as per instructions and took the bike out for a spin. It was like riding through treacle. I wasn't carrying panniers and luggage, but it felt the same. I thought I had fitted them ok and therefore was at a loss as to how these really light nylon liners could have the effect of a fully loaded bike, but worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the next day, I thought I'll try again - maybe it's just me. I'll take the bike on a training route I use a lot. Here are the results: 24 kms., 16.1 kph average, 1 hour 30 min.&#xA;And I didn't enjoy it. My bike had turned into a turkey overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next morning, I headed out again on the exact same route (no traffic lights, country roads, no hills) without the liners, same tire pressures. What a pleasure - lovely ride, responsive, gliding. Results: 24 kms., 20.3 kph average, 1 hour 12 min. That's a 25% difference in speed and time. And I would need a flat every 20 kms. to make up the difference. Hard to believe, isn't it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I examined the liners they had turned black,, on both sides, from bright orange, which I assume was from the tire and tube rubbing on it. It had also stuck to the tube in one or two places, necessitating me to peel it off. I will never be using them again. It would be interesting to hear of any other people's research into tire liner use. Is this just a one off? What about thick tubes and reinforced tires? How do they affect performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9204" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T08:45:59.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19222" CreationDate="2014-02-02T15:42:49.723" Score="8" ViewCount="26905" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you achieve the same position you would have on a bigger frame by raising seatpost and stem? And how could I adjust those to &quot;simulate&quot; a bigger sized frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8824" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T05:26:08.623" Title="Is it possible to compensate a short sized frame by adjusting seatpost and stem?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19216" CreationDate="2014-02-02T15:56:14.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't always one size frame which fits a person well in a given model line of bikes (there may be 2 or more - probably 2 if someones on the border of sizes). In some cases, you can get multiple models to fit by swapping out stems and seatposts and saddle and handlebar adjustments or swaps. However, this is highly dependent on the particular model of the bike and the rider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution for this sorta problem is to get a bike fit, which may show its not even possible. Otherwise, you have to just play with it on feel, which can get a bit expensive if you don't have all the parts on hand already. Pretty much all you can do though is put a longer stem, possibly raise and lower it, use wider handlebars and adjust the saddle angle+ position a bit further back (which may be easier with a different seat post).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest things you have to do are get the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot;&gt;effective top tube right&lt;/a&gt;. Then you have seat height and angle and handlebar height and stuff. Its not exactly a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/kops.html&quot;&gt;science&lt;/a&gt; though so you have to play around with it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-02T16:02:31.337" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T16:02:31.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19223" CreationDate="2014-02-03T04:55:48.000" Score="5" ViewCount="2979" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a downhill frame (Commencal DH Supreme 2012) that I want to build up with parts myself.&#xA;Now I'm trying to pick a suitable crankset for the 107mm bottom bracket. Having a hard time finding anything. It seems like not even the Saint group supports 107mm BBs. Where should I start searching? I'm not looking for specific advice but I need to find a place start or maybe I'm not getting it right with the specs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9212" LastActivityDate="2020-10-01T08:25:56.190" Title="Picking a crankset for a 107mm BB on a downhill bike" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19216" CreationDate="2014-02-03T05:26:08.623" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any frame can support a range of rider sizes by adjusting (among other things) the seat post and stem.  However, as you might suspect, there are compromises to be made.  And, there are limits to how big of a rider can fit on a given frame.  I'll explain a bit more below to illustrate these points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can adjust the seat post by making it higher (may require a longer seat post than you currently have).  Also, some seat posts are straight, whereas others have a setback.  The later will move the seat slightly further back on the bicycle.  Setback is usually used to ensure that the rider is properly aligned over the pedals.  Whereas height is used to ensure that the ride achieves a proper leg extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you will want to consider the distance from the saddle to the handlebars.  The horizontal distance can be adjusted by getting a longer stem.  And the vertical distance can be adjusted by getting a stem with a different rise (the angle of the stem relative to the front head tube).  Therefore, you can achieve a wide range of positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, thus far, we have basically ensured that the rider's legs are extending far enough and that his/her reach is correct.  If that were the end of the story, then you'd be able to have a single size frame fit everyone by using a very wide range of stems and seat post sizes.  Yet, if you shop the market, you'll find that each of these items tend some have a somewhat limited range of sizes available.  The reason for this is that once you go beyond these limits, you start running into other issues.  The rider's position begins to shift such that the center of gravity is too far in one direction.  The steering becomes harder to manage.  Or the drop (the vertical distance between the saddle and the handle bars) becomes too great making the bike uncomfortable to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tldr; For the best comfort and handling, stem and seat posts should be use to fine tune a bike's fit, rather than correcting for an otherwise improperly sized frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T05:26:08.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19221" CreationDate="2014-02-03T09:11:17.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the tech sheet at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.commencal-store.co.uk/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=12450127&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.commencal-store.co.uk/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=12450127&lt;/a&gt; you need a Press-fit BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PF107 should have 41mm diameter cups, have the same overall width as an External-bearing BB in an 83mm shell, and be compatible with the same cranks as &quot;normal&quot; external-83mm BBs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SM-BB71 should work in your frame, and allow you to fit FC-M815 cranks. The cups will be the same as the &quot;73mm&quot; pressfit BBs, but the inner cover (aka spacer tube) is longer for &quot;83mm&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T09:11:17.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12812" CreationDate="2014-02-03T17:59:23.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;that tension adjuster bolt .... red loctite works wonders, and while you're at it, check the plastic block. If it has worn or has cracks it needs to be replaced. Don't tighten the two parallel big bolts in the slots, the bracket needs to be able to move ... &#xA;A good cleaning won't hurt either  :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9217" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2014-02-03T21:31:39.773" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T21:31:39.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-03T18:05:29.433" Score="1" ViewCount="1074" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.com/wheels-roadtriathlon-cosmic-carbone-sle#.Uu_P4z1dW9U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mavic Cosmic Carbone SLE&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.com/wheels-roadtriathlon-ksyrium-slr#.Uu_OMD1dW9U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mavic Ksyrium SLR&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;The Cosmic's are 50mm height, Ksyrium 25mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll only be using the wheel for racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do they perform in cross wind. I'm thinking about performance (watts used) and also handling, can I control the bike in a group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My simple logic tells me that the smaller rim, would of course be best choice in side wind. But then again, I suspect that the aero wheels perhaps might not just have been made for still winds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5450" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T09:00:38.333" Title="Wheel performance in cross wind" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;&lt;wind&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7913" CreationDate="2014-02-03T20:14:32.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;especially during the winter/cold months static can be an issue (so I read when I was having the exact same problem)...so i sprayed my HR band with Static Cling and it was the first true reading I've seen since I got it over a month ago! Try it and see if it works...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9218" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T20:14:32.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2047" CreationDate="2014-02-04T00:39:43.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the thread on the axle that you are trying to fit a nut is metric, you need to be aware that with metric threads there are 3 different pitches on every size. So, in your case you need to know if the threads on your axle are 8mm course, 8mm fine or 8mm extra fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as already mentioned, your axle could be an imperial size not metric, for example 3/8&quot; is a common size  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9221" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T00:39:43.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-04T03:33:06.823" Score="1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long time ago i bought one of these lights from china &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNbQn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;light&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is pure chinese crap. bought 2. one dead in a few days. Then i broke the two trays that i slide it to attach to the bike making them useless paperweight since they have a uncommon attachment tray that i can't find alternatives. Not to mention the included attachments are only good for seat-post installation, which is idiot, since the laser will be blocked by your legs! this thing has to be installed behind the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now i'm wanting to add that light to the bike again. And in the process, find/design a generic attachment for lights on racks. The back of the light is flat and has plenty of space. Also there is lot of space inside for me to use with fasteners and what not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rack i have is similar to this one:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o9SZV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a flat pane. With 3 holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything ready made that came with both parts? I can only find things for specific formats. I was wishing for something that I can just screw in a male plug in the back of the light and then secure the other female part on the bike or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am dreaming with something like this, but that would &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;also include the other part&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, also with screws.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbjWQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T11:39:33.657" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T11:39:33.657" Title="Custom/universal clamp/attachment for light on rear rack" Tags="&lt;taillight&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20234" CreationDate="2014-02-04T04:42:21.707" Score="5" ViewCount="17936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy a mini pump to keep in my bike bag, but I have some doubts if these pumps are really that usable.&#xA;My current pump is rated at 90 psi, but I would be surprised if it does 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FI6XGC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; claims 160 psi, I doubt it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pumps I am considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lezyne.com/products/hand-pumps/high-pressure#!sport-drive-hp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lezyne Sport Drive HP (120 psi)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lezyne.com/products/hand-pumps/high-pressure#!micro-floor-drive-hp-hpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Micro Floor Drive HPG (160 psi)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long does it take to pump up a tire with such a pump? Normally I use 120 psi, I haven't measured the minimal psi I would need to get home from a long trip, maybe around 100 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make sense to get one with a hose or a pressure gage? Probably they can't blow a tire anyway. &#xA;Any other recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer a pump to be prepared for multiple flats and not carry expensive cartridges, as well as for environmental reasons. It feels a bit frivolous to use two cartridges for a tire and throw them away afterwards. I am not a pro, just enjoy riding on the weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9224" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T05:50:19.780" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T17:27:13.723" Title="Mini Pumps For Roadbike (120 psi)?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19232" CreationDate="2014-02-04T04:44:00.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some hackish ideas I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not just use zip ties? If your rack doesn't have 3 posts, you can make 2 or so loops (one or two horizontal, and 1 or 2 vertical) to make a makeshift mount. Then, attach something like a binder clip or two to the light. Alternatively, you could cut a bit of the light's plastic and use something like a velcro loop on the back. _v_v___v_v_ where the _ denotes the back of the light and v denotes entry &amp;amp; exit points of velcro (if it doesn't need to be removable, you can even use zip ties instead, and seal the light a bit with a little bit of caulk). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be fancy, you can always take the mount of some manufacturer (e.g. Planet Bike), and then get a piece of plastic / other stiff material, and rabbet the appropriate thickness ridge to fit into the mount (or glue a thin piece of material to a thicker piece material) to get the rabbet-ing effect. So, the thin part would be thin enough to slide through the mount, and the thick part would be attached securely to the light (through some adhesive, or screws). Then, you'd make the top a bit too wide for it to slide straight down through the mount. If you have an arts and crafts store nearby, you can pick up some thin but rigid plastic, screw in / glue a block of some other material narrower than the ridge of the mount and then put a screw through the light into the block. Then, on top of the block, put a lip so the light doesn't jump out. If you cut the block so that it conforms to the notch in the light mount, that would help too. Alternatively, you can cut a slot in the light mount and thread some velcro through it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also cannibalize another light with matching mount by simply cutting off a bit of area around where the mount is, and then adjoining it to a new light (screws/adhesive). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the general problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, mounts are isolated between manufacturers (certainly, on front lights. on rear lights, it seems to primarily be a width thing). So a universal solution is going to be hard to find / doesn't exist. For cheap lights, I'd be inclined to just get a new light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T04:44:00.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19233" CreationDate="2014-02-04T05:01:10.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A longer frame pump is advantageous - a lot of them can be mounted along the length of your top tube and work a lot faster/easier than mini pumps. Mini pumps (and frame pumps in general) always take forever (at least, it feels like forever, though some are better than others due to chamber size and if they can inflate on the push and pull stroke of the pumping action among other design factors) and are tough at higher pressures. You just need to get enough air until you can get to a track pump - In theory and by design, you could probably get to full pressure with a good frame/mini pump but in practice, you may not due to tired-ness and other factors that come with a ride. The amount of time and effort it takes obviously depends on the volume of the tires and pressures you're running as well as how quickly you can pump. If you look at some reviews, you can probably find the highly variable measurement of how long someone took to pump their tire in &quot;pumps&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use a hand pump like a conventional frame/mini pump, you lose the advantage of weight and upper body muscles you use with a floor (track) pump (aside from the typically smaller volumes) [but you can get this on the go to some extent with a frame-mounted floor pump]. The Lezyne Micro Floor Drive HP-HPG looks interesting as a small frame-mounted floor pump (similar to the Topeak Morph line, but oddly much cheaper and possibly more ergonomic) and according to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/review/9073-lezyne-micro-floor-drive-hp-mini-pump&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;review&lt;/a&gt; does quite well on the pressure and inflation efficiency front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think a gauge is necessary, but a hose is useful - you avoid transferring your momentum of pumping directly to the valve, which can cause some damage if you do it too much (i.e. not careful). &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; has some tips for doing this (my current frame pump does not have a hose, but I do wish it did). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do get a mini pump though, try to get one with a CO2 inflator built in as well and carry some CO2 cartridges (or at least a mini inflator). Some day you may be too tired or in need of a quick inflate (e.g. in the rain), and this could really help you (though they can't do minor adjustments of a tire pressure like a pump can).  Also, try to avoid flats in the first place - kevlar belted tires, proper tire inflation, etc. will save you the agony of having to use your pump. And always have a way to get home otherwise (e.g. bus, calling someone, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T05:54:40.923" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T05:54:40.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20238" CreationDate="2014-02-04T07:34:36.897" Score="3" ViewCount="5566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently riding a road bike that feels too short for me. I use it to commute 17 miles per day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently went to a bike shop, and they told me that your ideal frame height is to stand over the bike, lift up the frame, and have no more than a thumb width space below the tire. They also said the frame is measured from the pedal axle to the intersection of the seat post and the cross beam. They said a 57cm frame was probably the best fit for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went home and measured my current bike and it was a few inches smaller. However, I have a few other bikes in my garage in need of repair, and I'm hoping to restore one if it's the right size for me. I measured one and found that it was an inch (~2cm) taller than my goal of a 57cm frame. I was able to stand over the bike with my feet flat on the ground (but the tires were flat). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm wondering if this is an acceptable height. How tall is too tall? What downsides are there when the bike becomes too tall versus too short?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10227" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T11:10:06.907" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T11:10:06.907" Title="When is a bike frame considered too tall?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;tall&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19091" CreationDate="2014-02-04T08:08:56.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain line expected by a double front derailleur is basically what comes with the largest two chain rings on a triple.  Since you are using the smallest two chain rings, the double front derailleur will not shift optimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I'd suggest keeping the triple front derailleur in place.  Using the limit screw -- as you already have -- is the best option.  Given that you are unable to use the trim shift, at the moment, I believe that you may want to back off the limit screw just a bit.  In doing so, you'll allow the front derailleur to move outward a little more, which should allow the trim to work properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T08:08:56.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19226" CreationDate="2014-02-04T09:00:38.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll start by saying that finding solid data on wheel aerodynamics is tricky at best.  Some of the better sources are worth taking the time to read in full, and provide much more information than I can provide here.  For example, see the article from Tour Magazine [1] that covered the Mavic Cosmic Carbone SLR (similar, but not the same as what you asked about).  Also see the testing done by Roues Artisanales [2] where he reviews many wheels including some older Mavic Ksyrium models.  Of course, tests such as these are expensive and time consuming, so we typically can't find wide ranging, scientific test data across all of the current model wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said this, there is also a lot of rider data that can guide you as to the ride-ability of these wheels.  For example, on the weight weenie forums [3] SpinnerTim said that the Mavic CCs &quot;have strictly traditional deep-rim stability issues in cross winds. These ride the way deep rims like mid-decade 404s or Lightweight Standards rode when V-sections were the rule...&quot;.  In short, the CC SLE will provide some aero benefits from the front, but isn't the best in cross winds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ksyrium is kind of the opposite.  It isn't a particularly aero wheel, but will also have pretty normal / average performance with cross winds because there isn't much there to catch the wind anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For improved aerodynamics at various wind angles, I would encourage you to look at some of the more modern wheel shapes.  Things like the Smart ENVE System or the Zipp Firecrest.  Even the Mavic CC 40C is likely to provide better cross wind handling than the SLE [4,5].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tour-magazin.de/services/qtr/epaper_4_2011/page67.html#/96&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tour-magazin.de/services/qtr/epaper_4_2011/page67.html#/96&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15505311.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15505311.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[3] &lt;a href=&quot;http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=109139&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=109139&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[4] &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclecraft.wordpress.com/2013/05/23/tested-mavic-cc40-carbon-clincher-wheelset/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclecraft.wordpress.com/2013/05/23/tested-mavic-cc40-carbon-clincher-wheelset/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[5] &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/05/06/first-impressions-early-miles-on-the-mavic-cosmic-carbone-40-c/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/05/06/first-impressions-early-miles-on-the-mavic-cosmic-carbone-40-c/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T09:00:38.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20235" CreationDate="2014-02-04T13:43:20.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can go as tall as you like. Have you seen those tall bikes that people must climb up a ladder to use? However practicality is another thing. As the comments have said - enough room to stand-over is a good start. Try getting a bike-fit, adjusting certain geometry (saddle hight, stem etc) may help in your circumstances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T13:43:20.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19029" CreationDate="2014-02-04T14:09:54.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help. Finally what I needed to do was to screw the stud further in. The previous owner apparently had screwed it 2 mm out because in their wisdom they put a different V brake lever on the left hand side - which fitted better if the stud was protruding. Actually a guy from the local bike workshop did the screwing part for me, since I was afraid that I might damage the frame if I do it incorrectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front brake studs were totally absent from the fork, so I got 10 mm diameter studs - similar to ones in the picture above from e-bay for 8 £. Happily bicycling now. :) - there is something very satisfying about getting a used bike with a good frame and fixing it up, learning as you go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9065" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T14:09:54.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-04T14:28:30.110" Score="0" ViewCount="2031" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, can a older (early 90's) American/SAE measured non-suspension fork take a quick release wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to rebuild/restore my old Huffy Fire Mountain MTB made around 1990*.  It has a non-suspension fork with a bolt on wheel.  I believe that the front hub is a Wald, but I would have to look again.  However, I'm going to replace the old steel wheels with some &quot;good enough&quot; aluminum ones with quick release axles from my LBS.  I'm asking can my current fork take the new wheel or is there other considerations I need to make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, it is a BSO but it is my buddy and needs some love.  Be nice for a spare as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T06:10:53.050" Title="Do quick release wheels require certain design in the fork?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20241" CreationDate="2014-02-04T16:06:43.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the wheel fits into the fork, you can use quick release. As for your old wheels, you could find a same sized hollow axle and replace it or attach something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axlerelease.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;axle release&lt;/a&gt; to turn it into a quick-releasey wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3283/can-i-just-change-straightforward-wheel-axles-to-qr-skewers&quot;&gt;bicycles.SE&lt;/a&gt; thread as well. And &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; on how to properly use quick release. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T16:06:43.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-04T16:46:35.090" Score="8" ViewCount="64044" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without using manufacturer specific parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I use a wheel with a thru-axle hub on a standard quick release fork or frame dropouts (with an adapter)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I use a wheel with a quick release hub on a thru-axle fork or frame dropouts (with an adapter)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We may also want to consider that there are also different thru axle sizes, commonly 12mm, 15mm and 20mm.  I think the most common size of thru-axle currently is 15mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2020-08-27T02:06:15.237" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T02:06:15.237" Title="Thru Axle and Quick Release Fork/Frame Compatability?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;axle&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;&lt;through-axle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19061" CreationDate="2014-02-04T17:06:56.647" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the years I've dealt with a variety of puncture inducing issues ranging from desert thorns to broken glass to nails and tacks and metal shards.  While I agree with the other replies here that you shouldn't expect a puncture proof tire, there are some things you can do.  Below are some of the tips and tricks that I have picked up over the years.  The best answer for you is going to depend on what kind of bike you are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start with a high quality, puncture resistant tire.  I know you asked for other options, but a quality tire can make all of the difference.  The Schwalbe Marathon Plus HS 440 is easily the most puncture resistant tire that I have ever used.  I have arrived at work with ~50 desert thorns stuck into these tires without losing any air.  More details available here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/Marathon_Plus_HS440&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/Marathon_Plus_HS440&lt;/a&gt;.  Less industrious options (that are more suitable for road bikes where weight may be a concern) include the Continental 4000s and Continental GatorSkin tires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ensure that your tires are properly inflated.  And double check the pressure at least weekly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inspect and replace your tires frequently.  When your tires get too thin, they are more prone to punctures.  While there is no exact science as to when you should replace a tire, I tend to do it sooner than later and have found that this significantly reduces the number of flats that I get.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider using a sealant inside your tubes.  This is a liquid that will help to patch small holes in your tube as punctures happen.  The two leading options here are Slime and Stans.  Slime is thicker and is sold both pre-installed in a tube and separately (for injection into any tube). Stans is thinner and only sold separately (as far as I know).  You can use an inexpensive syringe kit to inject the sealant into a tube through the valve stem.  As a tire rotates the sealant will disperse throughout the tube.  In the event of a puncture, the air rushing out is mixed with sealant, which results in the puncture getting patched on the fly.  When it works properly, you might only lose a small amount of air and not even have to get off your bike.  Of course you should replace that air when possible.  And, depending on the size of the puncture, you may opt to replace that tube soonish as well.  Typically Slime is recommended for lower pressure tires whereas Stans works well in higher pressure tires, due to the tradeoffs inherent with the thickness of each sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finally, when I was living the the US Southwest with lots of desert thorns, some people used a setup they liked to call &quot;the system&quot;.  This involved taking an old tire and cutting off the bead.  Then installing this old tire between your tube and your new tire.  The second layer of rubber provides a powerful barrier against punctures.  Of course, it is also heavy and a large pain to install.  I'd suggest that this is somewhat extreme, but I know people that love it so I figured it was worth mentioning here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After taking all of these precautions, you should always carry the parts and tools needed to change a flat.  With luck, the suggestions above will significantly reduce your need to use such items.  But, it is always better to be prepared.  Again, depending on your bike you may want to carry 1 or more tubes, a portable pump, tire levers, CO2 cartridges, a tube patch kit (I personally don't like these because I find that getting a good patch is often a game of chance, but some people love them), and some nitrile gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T17:06:56.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19233" CreationDate="2014-02-04T17:27:13.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Topeak Road Morph G is an excellent pump. I have one that's served probably 5 years at this point with no problems, only requiring a spot of grease in the cylinder after 4 years or so. It definitely gets up to 100+PSI, and costs $30. The gauge isn't great but it's better than just feeling the tire. Pumping up the tire to high pressure definitely requires a lot more effort than a floor pump, but the floor pump position allows you to put your weight into pumping up the tire so you can get up to high pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Lezyne Micro Floor Drive is apparently a reputable pump too, though apparently a piece of plastic on its hose is breakage-prone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T17:27:13.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20267" CreationDate="2014-02-04T17:52:10.507" Score="3" ViewCount="15460" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike the rest of the broken bottom bracket questions, my bottom bracket does not make any noise or feel like anything is grinding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is about 1/2cm of play left to right that i can see on the top chainring. I can definitely feel it being loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the worst amount of damage that I can do to my bike riding like this? (assuming that I dont fall off and die etc because of this little matter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bracket itself is new(ish) it was installed there about a year ago, but I did ride 50 miles per week on it since. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could have caused this to happen? My best guess right now is that someone did this to my bike because I park it out doors while I am at work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;: &#xA;My level of expertise in that area of the bike is pretty low, so here is a video of what is happening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/XpkYE479GtE?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(set quality to HD)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that on the side of my chainrings there is a noticeable gap between the seal and the bottom bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is going on here?  and more importantly can I fix it myself without special tools&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I expect any kind of a warranty from the bike shop who put this in a year ago ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solved&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;Took out the bottom bracket.  It is fine and so are the cranks. The threads on the frame are not fine though. I need a new frame :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="4243" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T18:33:45.913" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T21:57:01.873" Title="Broken bottom bracket? Pedals are pretty loose" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20243" CreationDate="2014-02-05T00:56:55.410" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seem an adapter for either of these situations. I doubt one would fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, a lot of manufacturers use the same hub body on their through axle and QR wheels and are more than happy to sell you the bits that are different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this problem when I got a pretty good deal on some wheels with a 15mm front hub. In the end, after a month or two of looking, I found somewhere with a non tapered 15mm fork in stock and bought that over rebuilding the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way, is to choose wheels that fit out of the box!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/products/carriers-and-racks/bike-carriers/bike-carrier-accessories/thule-thru-axle-adapter-15mm-53015-_-53015999&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; adapter for a 15mm QR on a roof rack, not sure I'd like to ride it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T04:04:53.317" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T04:04:53.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19196" CreationDate="2014-02-05T02:59:21.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the specification. Some wheels have weight limitations, but your model doesn't look like to have one. One example is one of the Hed wheels (Jets) which in standard build (18/24 spokes) limited to 190 lbs but can be upgraded (with more spokes, 20/28) for 225 lbs riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T02:59:21.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20251" CreationDate="2014-02-05T05:55:00.780" Score="2" ViewCount="12562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the market for a new set of wheels. I've been noticing a style which I think is called &quot;Deep V&quot;. I plan on adding gears to my currently single-speed bike (not a fixed gear). However, searching online, the majority (if not all) are advertised as being for fixed gear bikes. Are deep V wheels intended for fixed gear bikes? Is there any reason I would want to avoid them for a normal geared bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10227" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T13:16:03.703" Title="Are deep V wheels only for fixed gear bikes?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20250" CreationDate="2014-02-05T06:05:27.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deep-sectioned rims -- particularly Velocity Deep Vs -- became popular among fixed gear riders because they came in a variety of colors (bling) and the larger section made that bling all the more prominent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, deep-sectioned rims have many applications beyond urban fixed gear bikes. They're typically heavier and don't do well in cross winds, but in straight-ahead road riding, they are thought to be more aerodynamic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the rims come with machined sidewalls, they'll work fine for your purposes. The machining greatly improves braking by making the contact point for the brake pads more consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, if you're riding around town or even doing more recreational road riding, I think you'll be better served by a smaller sectioned rim like the Velocity Aerohead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T06:05:27.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19190" CreationDate="2014-02-05T11:01:41.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_108&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lotus Type 108&lt;/a&gt;. This was a bike made with a carbon monocoque frame instead of the traditional tubular double diamond frame. The bike was very successful, breaking several records and earning Gold in the 1992 Barcelona Olympics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of frame is no longer allowed by the UCI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6407" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T11:01:41.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-05T11:10:54.167" Score="5" ViewCount="1711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard many times from experienced riders that OEM parts (parts that accompany a complete bike) are of lower quality than the exact same aftermarket parts (parts bought separatelly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual justification is that that's the way a complete bike can have a low price so it is affordable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My judgement says that companies (both part providers and complete bike sellers) would not get into such trouble to save a couple of dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I'm talking about high end MTB bikes with high end parts, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridefox.com/product.php?m=bike&amp;amp;t=forks&amp;amp;p=36201&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ridefox.com/product.php?m=bike&amp;amp;t=forks&amp;amp;p=36201&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bosmtb.com/en/forks/dh/detail/produit/idylle-sc-/5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bosmtb.com/en/forks/dh/detail/produit/idylle-sc-/5.html&lt;/a&gt; and my question regards exact same models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T06:15:17.437" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T06:36:34.767" Title="are OEM parts of lower quality?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20256" CreationDate="2014-02-05T13:34:03.007" Score="4" ViewCount="4802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for waterproof shoes to use on my daily bike commute for home-office moves. I previously had rain boots, and was happy with them. Nevertheless they quickly started to &quot;break&quot; in the middle of the sole because my feet move when cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of shoes are you using for this purpose, which ones would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I don't have clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4196" LastEditorUserId="4196" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T15:08:15.417" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T13:37:37.093" Title="Which waterproof shoes?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-01-23T15:01:11.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20266" CreationDate="2014-02-05T13:43:59.783" Score="1" ViewCount="1295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking about building a fixie and was wondering what are the best types of frame, wheels etc to use and how long the whole building process may take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10242" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T16:20:46.660" Title="How to build a fixie bike?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-02-11T23:06:46.643" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20254" CreationDate="2014-02-05T13:59:38.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to French wikipedia, automatic pedals seem to be clipless pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wide range of manufacturers make waterproof shoe covers (also known as overshoes or booties), for use with both clipless pedal systems as well as your usual set of sneakers (be sure to check out the particular model to see if they're compatible. One designed solely for clipless pedals may be too small for your regular shoes unless you just wear Chucks. Ones which can be used for regular shoes are often marked to work with mountain bike shoes and leisure shoes). They just go over your shoes, and look something like this (not endorsing this particular model necessarily): &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JyIe2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shoe Cover&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a lot of people commute with their galoshes on regular old platform pedals for a very long time, so maybe you just need a better pair of galoshes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big part of not getting your feet soaked is avoiding water getting to them in the first place, which you typically do by using fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full fenders with mud guards - a lot of water gets kicked up by your wheels, and this prevents a lot of it getting to your feet in the first place. They also help dirt from the road not get into your drivetrain in the first place which is a nice touch. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4V4qb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mudguard&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're commuting on a race bike or full suspension mountain bike something, you may not have the brake clearance or mounting points to run something like these fenders (they're some set made by Planet Bike, but a lot of manufacturers make similar ones). In this case, you can get something that mounts solely on the down tube on and on the seatpost: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/51f4x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0r8w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;downtube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which will go a long way to keeping you dry (but not as much as full fenders). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T15:07:13.977" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T15:07:13.977" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20255" CreationDate="2014-02-05T14:22:44.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, we don't go shopping on bicycles.SE, since that information goes out of date quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem with building your own bike is fit. If you don't know what measurements you already need from the frame and stem and handlebars and saddle a priori, its going to be hard to gauge which size is right for you. Your LBS may be able to help you in this area, or if you have a similar type of bike as to the one desired, you may be able to move the measurements to some other part set get close to whats right for you. Picking parts is hard enough as it is when things are approximately known already!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second problem is part selection - brands, budget, functional differences and if they go together (e.g. do you want a wheel with a flip flop hub, or just a fixed gear? What gear ratio should you pick? Do I shell out for the Chris King headset instead of the cheaper Cane Creek one? Will my crank go together with the bottom bracket I selected? etc.) For example, if you have a bottom bracket which is too narrow, you may get some knee pain. Specific to the case of &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fixies&lt;/a&gt;, Sheldon has some advice on selecting gearing and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;converting old frames to fixies&lt;/a&gt;. Also, your frame should have horizontal dropouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, theres the problem of putting things together. You may need some help here, as you may not have all the tools on hand for it and the investment in these specialized tools may not be worth it. For example, you may need a bottom bracket tool, cassette tool, chain whip, cable housing cutters (If you run a brake, you can get away with rougher cutting than for shifter cable housing (which fixies don't have), but its still a PITA to cut without the proper tools) etc. Also, if you need to cut your fork at home, its a lot nicer when done by the bike shop instead of pulling out a hacksaw at your house since they typically have nice guides for cutting the fork (with a hacksaw). Sometimes you can borrow these tools from a bike shop or a bike co-op and save yourself some of the expense. Also, you need some expertise to put the bike together in the first place (i.e. some knowledge on how the parts go together and how to adjust them properly, such as chain tension, which is critical on a fixie). Also, you'll make some mistakes (hopefully not forgetting to grease some thing or cross threading things), so you also need to allot time to deal with that. Even once you get the parts put in, you have to tune it to your riding style, so it could be a decent amount of time to put the thing together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested in doing this still (instead of buying a bike which you essentially like, and tweaking it, or having a conversion of an old frame done by your LBS), I suggest you go to your LBS, talk to them about what you want to do, take a bike which is similar to what you want, and get them to help you select which parts work for you (and you can have them install things which you don't want to buy the tools for or don't have access to, and have them check the wheel tensioning and stuff). The amount of time it takes you depends generally on mechanical aptitude, access to tools and luck in how close you get to getting something close to right in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;'s site is useful if you want to do this, as is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/new-bike-assembly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool site&lt;/a&gt; (Park Tool makes some excellent bicycle specific tools, but if you're purchasing tools, you may want to go with a cheaper set since they do not need to be so long lasting). There are also various books, such as &quot;The Bicycling Guide to Complete Bicycle Maintenance and Repair&quot; by Todd Downs, &quot;Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair&quot; by Park Tool and &quot;Sutherland's Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics&quot; among others which may be of use (the last one is designed pretty much for shop mechanics though). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a note on money: If you want to do this, note that you'll probably end up paying more than a similar bike on the market due to the fact that you're buying 1 of each part rather than a ton of each part like a complete manufacturer does. And you have the cost of your labor or LBS labor in putting it together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a note on safety: Despite it not being &quot;cool&quot;, I firmly believe fixie should have front and rear brakes (or at least a front brake at the least). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T06:48:17.337" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T06:48:17.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20253" CreationDate="2014-02-05T14:48:06.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the model numbers are the same, they will be the same parts built to the same specs. Of course, there are production line variations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are slight variations in the model numbers, they may be the same or they may be slightly different (typically slightly cheaper) to prevent exact comparison to the regular part as Daniel R. Hicks said in a comment. This is because a manufacturer can do a large order for a part specific to OEMs which may be branded some way or slightly cheaper to them or not come with certain accessories or warranties which the manufacturer sources from other manufacturers (which can cut some costs, and possibly increase or decrease quality). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ability to do bulk purchasing is the primary way that complete bikes are cheaper (they're buying 10s of thousands of cranksets or whatever without retail packaging or manuals or stuff, when you're buying 1 in a nice box with a warranty pamphlet and installation instructions and stuff, along with a markup for the shop). Naturally, its convenient to give the OEM and Retail versions different model numbers to keep things straight (for example, the OEM version's warranty is typically through the complete bike manufacturer, not the part manufacturer and may be shorter than the retail version, and it keeps stock easy to keep track of). This can be substantial - If you walk into Radio Shack for lets say a LM741 op amp, they'll charge you at least $1.50 for one of them (they don't do bulk discounts). My usual retailer for these type of parts, Digi-Key, sells the same part (possibly made by a different manufacturer, but I know to be of essentially same quality) for $0.70 each without the retail packaging (just cardboard boxes filled with foam and the chips in them) if I buy just one at  a time, and for $0.28 each if i buy in lots of 1000 or more. Thats around 19% of the price I would have paid at Radio Shack, for a bit different packaging and just getting it in bulk from a wholesaler (certainly, digi-key is marking this up as well. If I were a huge company, I could probably skip them and go straight to Texas Instruments or whatever, and order my 1 million op amps at an even lower rate!). The complete bikes also often ship essentially assembled correctly, so you further save money on the total cost of the bike by not having to pay as much time for a tech at the LBS to do things. This is known as &quot;economies of scale&quot;. [To drive the point home: As Kibbee points out in a comment, this is why the &quot;losing money&quot; articles news sites often run on electronics are faulty - the sum of the costs of parts to a consumer whose only buying a few of each part will be higher than the cost of the device, but when you're buying large quantities of each part, the sum of the costs will be significantly less. Those articles do make for great click-bait though!]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/info_hole&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly&lt;/a&gt; on this: &quot;Can I get the same stem/crankarm/saddle/handlebar as the one that came on my Surly complete bike?&quot;&#xA;&quot;No, we don't offer most of the stock parts that come on our complete bikes. These parts are sourced from the manufacturer directly and aren't usually available for purchase, but in most cases you can get something darn close or even better from your LBS&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Surly is owned by QBP, so they can source a lot of stuff from QBP at a very good rate, which can bring down costs at little to no quality penalties versus using other manufacturer's parts, and can do custom runs for similar products that would be sourced from QBP without accessories or fan fare)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that a lot of bicycling things on part quality is in people's heads. If I took a Deore derailleur and made it to say it was a Tourney derailleur and people saw it, a lot of people would say it performed inherently worse than one that I hadn't scratched out the decal on. Also, there is variance in manufacturing and riding conditions, so sometimes you get a part which lasts longer than others in the same batch or model or comparable models. It would be near impossible to get a statistically significant sample telling you that aftermarket parts are different than the parts with the exact same model number supplied to bike manufacturers (I highly doubt it exists). Also, when someone pays for something, they often believe it to be better than the &quot;free&quot; thing (there was a Newsweek article about 6 years ago talking about how colleges priced themselves higher so people would believe them to be better). We see this all the time with other products in our lives, such as badge-engineered cars among other things. Finally, remember that a lot of people replace things as they break, when typically the parts aren't running well anyway, lowering the perceived quality versus the replacement, even if they are the same part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a practice, commonly used in the electronics industry, known as &quot;binning&quot;, where parts are tested, and higher performing parts are often branded differently than lower performing parts and sold at a higher price (and when there are more higher performing parts than necessary, they are often branded as lower quality parts. Overclockers in PC's, for example, often take make use of this for unlocking cores and extra performance and what not). However, it doesn't really make sense to do a binning for lower quality and higher quality things in the same model number and sell the lower quality ones to bike manufacturers - the parts in a bicycle are simple enough from a machining standpoint typically that they can be made amazingly consistent, so the variations aren't great, and this just adds complexity to the supply line as well as opens up the manufacturer to possible litigation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are different models, then sure there can be differences in quality (you may fit a cheaper part for something not very important or a wear item or something that people aren't used to noticing (as noted in one of the comments) like a cassette or saddle (which is hard to choose due to personal preferences) or pedals (often thrown out for some clipless system on more expensive bikes) when build the complete bike, knowing that this will bring your costs down and the rider is going to replace anyway with something better once it wears out). You can save some money this way (and certainly, this is substantial for bicycles which are cheaper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it and would just ride things until they need replacing. Then just pickup whatever looks good and move on with your life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T06:36:34.767" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T06:36:34.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-05T16:57:55.777" Score="0" ViewCount="1886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to buy a new tire off of a website but they offer 700cX32c and others like that but are they all the same size or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10245" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T00:06:57.267" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T00:06:57.267" Title="With a 700c X whatever tire, does the other number really matter?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2014-02-05T16:59:35.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two cross bikes and swap wheels on the Crux Elite to ride centuries on the road occasionally.  It weighs 18.2 pounds minus pedals with an Ultegra/FSA Energy group and $300 1500g Vuelta wheelset (thanks ebay).  Total investment was $1450, including the frame/forks.  I spent far less money building this bike than most of my riding companions paid for their 18lb. carbon road bikes off the rack.  All I can say is that I can ride 60 miles faster than my wife's uncle can on his $11K Pin Dogma 2.  Even in mountain bike cleats and without shaving my legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Don't upgrade, ride up grades.&quot; - Eddie Merckx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10246" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T16:59:35.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20260" CreationDate="2014-02-05T17:54:12.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;700c (ISO 622) is the wheel size (other common wheel sizes are 26 inch (ISO 559), 29 inch (which is really the same as 700c), 650b, etc). The second number determines the tire size (via width-ishness). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; page on tire sizing - there is some variance even among tires marked the same thing (and strangely enough, numbers mean different things when written as decimals or fractions), even if the tires are of the same style (say, slicks; Obviously if one tire is knobby and the other is slick, you can't reasonably expect them to have the same tire clearance when mounted in the same bike). Generally, the bigger the second number, the bigger the tire  (knobs can cause this to be violated) and typically more cushioning. However, if its too big, it won't clear the brakes or the fork/frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, your tire should between 1.5x and 2x the inner rim width - too narrow and the rim can take some hits. Too fat and the brakes drag on the tire/handling can be compromised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't bought a tire before, take the bike to your LBS and try on some tires so you're sure they'll clear the frame and are not too wide for your rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T18:00:59.067" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T18:00:59.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="47037" CreationDate="2014-02-05T18:01:47.077" Score="1" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to invest into a Alfine 11 set (both hub gear and crank+front cog(45)).&#xA;I'm also looking for solution for chain guard for Alfine cog for commuting. I've found Curana brand that makes good chain guards for Alfine (C-Lite that makes possible to use original Alfine ring and chain guard together), although I'm not able to find online dealer to buy one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you recommend any online store to buy Curana stuff?&#xA;If it is not possible, would you recommend other good chain guard for Alfine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4629" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T07:42:20.743" Title="Alfine 11 chain guard" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-05-31T13:23:29.650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19058" CreationDate="2014-02-05T18:07:01.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people do tour with Bromptons, so don't rule it out: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikefix.co.uk/touring-brompton&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Touring on a Brompton&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/blog/brompton-cross-country-touring-bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brompton cross country touring&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shanecycles.com/the-genius-of-brompton-touring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The genius of Brompton touring&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://stupidfatbastard.wordpress.com/category/cycle-touring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brompton touring&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about France, but in the UK, not all trains allow large wheeled folders. If they do, something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dahon.com/bikes/espresso-d24-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dahon Espresso&lt;/a&gt; is a quick fold, but not very compact (folding handlebars help, and newer models have them as standard). The Dahon Cadenza is slightly less bulky, but slower to fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://dahon.com/bikes/jetstream-p8-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jetstream&lt;/a&gt; is 20&quot; wheels, doesn't fold as small as some other small wheel Dahons, but would cope with some sorts of touring better because of the suspension compensating for small wheels to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ever want to take the bike on a bus, you will almost certainly need a small wheel folder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is a Riese und Müller &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.r-m.de/en/folding-bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Birdy&lt;/a&gt;. They do get seriously expensive, but fold nearly as small as a Brompton (compared with a large wheeled folder; if your main use is commuting with public transport, the Brompton fold is enough smaller and neater to matter). (There is now longer a Birdy model specifically named &quot;Tour&quot;, but they are still used for touring.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Photo below from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pbase.com/image/83944065&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.pbase.com/image/83944065&lt;/a&gt; is an older model Birdy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2vn6m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Birdy with Icelandic scenery&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="1158" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T11:09:33.447" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T11:09:33.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20255" CreationDate="2014-02-05T23:23:02.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no such thing as a 'best' bike or bike part— most just optimize for different things. Even cheap parts are optimized for low cost. You'll need to give more information on what you want to use the bike for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building a fixie could take a week if you go to your local bike store, tell them you have no budget limit, and ask them to order you some parts and build them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you slowly accumulate perfect matching vintage parts, it could take a year or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you're optimizing for cost, since 2008 or so, it's pretty much always been cheaper to buy a pre-built fixie than building one from scratch, or converting a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="5702" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T16:20:46.660" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T16:20:46.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20246" CreationDate="2014-02-06T01:15:38.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick test. Grab the crank arm that you say is moving and wiggle it. Does the arm on the other side move? If so, you've probably got a bottom bracket problem. The answer then depends on whether you have a sealed or loose bearing botton bracket. As mentioned previously, a sealed shouldn't do this after 2600 miles. (Neither should a loose bearing, but it is more likely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the other arm is not moving, then the one wiggling is probably coming off of the bottom bracket spindle (the axle). The spindle may be rounded off, or the crank arm may be rounded off. The only way to really tell is to take it off and see. This probably means that it wasn't installed securely in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T01:15:38.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20241" CreationDate="2014-02-06T06:10:53.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is less &quot;can&quot; it take the wheel (yes it can physically fit) but more an issue of safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Misapplication of a quick release (QR) can happen. If the QR is not tightened properly the constant vibration experienced riding off road can cause it to loosen further. Older forks may be missing  &quot;lawyer lips&quot;  (little tabs at the bottom of the drop out) that can help keep the wheel in the drop outs in the situation that a QR does loosens off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have personally had a QR back off under very rough conditions.  The wheel rattled about but did not come off.  I was very grateful for the lawyer lips.  I don't consider myself &quot;stupid&quot; either for the misapplication, in my case it was one of those crappy Bontranger QR's that never seem to engage well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T06:10:53.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20269" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-06T07:21:24.560" Score="1" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a 16 tooth and tried to put on the old chain, BUT while it fits on the pedal cog (46 tooth), it does not on the rear cog. How can I solve this? a different cog in the back or a different chain? (on the rear cog, the chain has bigger &quot;holes&quot; than it should, so it doesnt fit...)&#xA;Thank you so much for any advice...!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7993" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T15:52:55.933" Title="converting to fixed gear, chain problem" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20243" CreationDate="2014-02-06T15:14:00.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only with manufacturer-specific parts, and only with hubs that were designed to be adapted (e.g. you could probably adapt a 15mm bolt-thru hub to 9mm, but not the other way around). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Hope will sell you adaptors to let you use Pro 2 Evo hubs with these drop-outs: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front QR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front 9mm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front 20mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front 15mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front Maverick fork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear QR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear 10mm Saint&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear 12mm (135)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear 10mm Bolt in (135)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Syntace X12 142mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might get lucky and find adaptors from one brand of hub will work in another, but in general that isn't the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T15:14:00.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20269" CreationDate="2014-02-06T15:52:55.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might have bought the wrong width chain. For road bikes/fixie there are two possibilities. These are the width of the chain. &#xA;3/32&quot; and 1/8&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a 3/32&quot; chain will not fit on a 1/8&quot; cog but a 1/8&quot; chain will fit on a 3/32&quot; cog (but with extra space around the teeth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is the length of the chain you are talking about then get a new chain. but the pedal cog might also need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More economic route might be buying a used rear cog (be warned this might be unsafe if you end up riding a lot wear will be faster)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8970" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T15:52:55.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20254" CreationDate="2014-02-06T17:25:33.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For dry feet I have been using &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.taigaworks.ca/cart.php?m=product_detail&amp;amp;p=65&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Taiga Dry-foot gaiters&lt;/a&gt; for years now. They are about $50 US. I just replaced the pair I had been abusing for about three years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They cover the shoe but are open at the bottom so whether you clip in or not you are in business. Wash them as you would any Gore-Tex product, that is with the special detergent. They don't need washing often: I only do mine about monthly if I have been using them a lot, but I guess that is a matter of preference. Washing also frees up the zip if it is sticky from salt and grit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are also good for very cold days because they act as windbreakers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6737" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T13:52:02.230" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T13:52:02.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20250" CreationDate="2014-02-06T18:50:37.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't help but elaborate on some of the previous excellent answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As indicated in the comment above by psycling, a deep section wheel has increased lateral strength; that is, side-to-side. Depending on spoke count and pattern, the built wheel will also have a reduced vertical compliance; it's less likely to absorb head on/up-down impact &lt;em&gt;as well as&lt;/em&gt; torque applied to the drive wheel by the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lateral stiffness is apparent to me when grinding along on a tall gear, throwing the bike side to side, as typical with a fixed gear (or singlespeed). An average wheelset makes this movement feel 'spongy,' like every time you stomp on a pedal with the bike leaned over the front wheel is springing sideways a little bit. This flex is reduced with a deep section wheel, resulting in a more solid feel. I don't know about the detail of the physics on this, but my perception of riding a laterally stiff wheelset when I'm limited to one gear ratio is that less of my effort is 'wasted'. More fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight added by the rim around the circumference of the wheel is a factor to pay attention to; it will result in a cycle which feels noticeably slower to accelerate, depending on the weight cost vs. another wheelset. Some folks don't think this matters, but I'm not particularly perceptive and even I can tell the difference a few hundred grams makes here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These characteristics are valuable when you're a velodrome track star, as acceleration from a stop isn't as important as cruising efficiency and there aren't any potholes. There's no strong argument why you shouldn't use a deep-v wheel on a geared bike, but if you examine the way you ride a bike with multiple ratios (fewer forehead-vein-popping climbs) you may find that it makes more sense to use a lighter rim with a more conventional cross section. I have ridden the Velocity aero rim as previously mentioned and it made a very nice, durable wheel, a good compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there's also the style points to consider...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10256" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T18:50:37.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19016" CreationDate="2014-02-06T18:52:54.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm adding an answer of my own (but not accepting it), which is the method I'm using as a stop-gap measure in addition to Batman's duct tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have cut out cardboard and glued and taped it into a rectangular shape just wide and high enough to slide over the pedal, with a 1 centimetre overhang.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cardboard rectangular tube folds flat for stashing, similar to how Carey Gregory's foam tube can be stashed on the frame.   However, cardboard will not survive heavy rain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, cardboard is readily available to me and does the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8513" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T18:52:54.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20246" CreationDate="2014-02-06T22:35:29.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The worst amount of damage is, that you will can not get the BB out of the frame, therefor you'll have to change the whole frame (thou I never saw a BB that can't be pulled out).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yet your bearings are surely already totally destroyed, and maybe the axle too. As soon as you will replace them, it's better and it will be easier to do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the matter of it. You should check for loose in your BB from time to time. Maybe it wasn't screwed well or something, and with the time and lots of riding it's unscrewing. When it's a little unscrewed it begins to damage itself from inside and the more you ride on it, the more damage it will do in future rides starting by destroying the bearings, then beat out gaps in bearing cups (that's why they so hard to unscrew) and gaps on the axle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst with loosen cranks. The cranks must be tighten very well. If a crank isn't tight enough, it will unscrew, and the damage there much worst. The pedal will fall, and the rider can really fall down in mid of street and can be damaged by traffic up to death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T22:35:29.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-07T03:55:13.273" Score="45" ViewCount="93087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen thru axles mentioned in various places but never explained or even described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a post on another site where someone asked the same question and got lots of debate in response, but no explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a thru axle? What problem does it solve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10257" LastActivityDate="2017-02-10T15:51:27.913" Title="What is a thru axle?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;through-axle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20276" CreationDate="2014-02-07T04:22:10.620" Score="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a traditional non-through axle, there's a &lt;em&gt;slot&lt;/em&gt; at the bottom of the fork (or the dropouts), the axle is hollow, and there is a skewer through axle. You use the quick-release to loosen the grip around that slot to slide the skewer (vertically) in and out of that slot, while it's still going through the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a through axle, there is simply a &lt;em&gt;hole&lt;/em&gt; on either side, instead of a slot. You remove the axle entirely out the side of the hub in order to remove the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, through axles are much &lt;em&gt;thicker&lt;/em&gt; axles. The thicker axle is &lt;em&gt;stronger&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;stiffer&lt;/em&gt;. Downhill mountain bikers were breaking axles, and it's a lot harder to break a 15mm through axle than to break a 9mm traditional axle. The stiffness also helps the bike handle better (&quot;more responsive&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've heard from a framebuilder friend, the move to through axles is also because frame manufacturing techniques improved to allow them. With a traditional dropout, if the two sides were a millimeter off, the framebuilder could simply file a millimeter out of the slot on one side to make things work right. Once it's all polished and painted you'd never notice. With a through axle the framebuilder absolutely has to get the alignment just right, because an oval hole just won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside of a through axle is that changing a flat might take an extra second or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T06:59:39.733" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T06:59:39.733" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-08T14:33:10.087" Score="3" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful to have a collection of common head tube badges to aid in identifying bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Guidelines:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Include a photo! (Credit photo where appropriate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A brief summary of the logo: manufacture, area, date logo was used and on what bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is okay to give specific information such as an exact year and model of bicycle. As more users lend their expertise this information can be generalized.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Edit previous answers: add different logos used by that manufacturer, improve summaries, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even badges with the manufacturer clearly identified can be helpful (ie. for dating purposes or if someone is trying to match a silhouette or damaged badge).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Head_badge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;wikipedia&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; page is a good resource to start with, but here we can add more information, such as when a badge was used and for what models. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Contents&lt;/strong&gt; (as of 2/12/14):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20278/headtube-badges/20279#20279&quot;&gt;Public&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20278/headtube-badges/20306#20306&quot;&gt;Raleigh&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T15:17:38.243" Title="Headtube Badges" Tags="&lt;reference&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-02-11T03:26:43.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20278" CreationDate="2014-02-08T14:33:10.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NWwkB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Public Head Tube Badge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.publicbikes.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Public Bikes&lt;/a&gt; (San Francisco, 2013)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike(s): R16 (Road bike) and other models&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T14:33:10.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20286" CreationDate="2014-02-08T15:38:31.653" Score="1" ViewCount="16861" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any major bike manufacturer that still makes steel road bikes today?&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;The frame of my old Bridgestone got cracked and the crack is too close to the alloy BB lug for me to be able to weld it. I need a new training bike and it has to be steel because aluminium goes bad too quickly on local roads and I've seen way too many carbon horror stories.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Also, it needs to a major manufacturer because I won't get other stuff here in my country.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;PS There is a supply-demand problem with second-hand steel bikes. Only lower end steel frames are sold second-hand and then too at the cost of aluminium frames.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;PPS I've already checked the websites of most major manufacturers, nothing there.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Edit : &lt;/b&gt;Seems that I forgot to mention that I need something that feels similar to my racer. Judging from some internet trawling, both touring and CX frames feel different and wouldn't make good training bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3062" LastEditorUserId="3062" LastEditDate="2014-02-09T08:05:47.757" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T16:59:01.467" Title="Are there any manufacturers of steel road bikes today?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-02-11T22:58:57.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20280" CreationDate="2014-02-08T15:50:29.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trek still makes a steal touring bike, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/touring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;520&lt;/a&gt;. Should make a great, heavy duty road bike. Note: the shifters are on the bar ends and the gearing is that of a mountain bike. May be a problem depending on your preferences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is the Specialized &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/awol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AWOL&lt;/a&gt;, for which just the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/awol/awol-comp-frameset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;frameset&lt;/a&gt; can also be ordered (thanks @mikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastEditorUserId="7724" LastEditDate="2014-02-08T16:01:52.100" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T16:01:52.100" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20280" CreationDate="2014-02-08T16:11:11.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are available from the major brands. Most shops don't stock them as the aura of aluminum and carbon overshadow them. In most riders mind steel is heavy and old school. To a point they are right, in that cheap steel bikes are heavy. A quality steel frame can easily be lighter than bargain aluminum frame and cost much more. If you check the major manufacturers web sites and search for &quot;road steel frame&quot; you will get some results. If the roads are as bad as you suggest you may want to consider a cyclocross bike as it will be a more durable on unimproved roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T16:11:11.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-08T16:19:20.813" Score="1" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I've saved a course to my Edge 200, can I reverse it to get back to the start? Or do I need to save two versions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;back to start&quot; option only seems to be there when I'm already following a course, not when I'm about to set off. Which isn't that helpful if you've stopped for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T21:14:44.050" Title="Reverse a saved course on Garmin Edge 200?" Tags="&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20283" CreationDate="2014-02-08T21:14:44.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not aware of a way to do this using just the Garmin unit.  However, if you have a computer handy, then you can upload your ride to one of the many GPS cycling sites (for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ridewithgps.com/&lt;/a&gt; works well for this).  Once the ride is online, you can reverse the route using tools on the website.  You'll want to then verify that everything is as you expect because sometimes the route reversal can cause unexpected detours ;-)  Then you can save the reversed route back to your Garmin unit to guide you on your next ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T21:14:44.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20280" CreationDate="2014-02-08T21:19:45.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you consider a &quot;major brand&quot;, there really are a lot of nice steel bikes around these days.  If I were going this route, I'd look to some of the brands that focus on the steel frames, rather than complete bikes.  The list below should get you started.  While they aren't the biggest names in the industry, they do have good distribution so you should ask about availability at your local bike shop.  Or order a frame online.  Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.somafab.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.somafab.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/&quot;&gt;http://salsacycles.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gunnarbikes.com/&quot;&gt;http://gunnarbikes.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T21:19:45.197" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20280" CreationDate="2014-02-08T23:47:39.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of manufacturers (or reasonably common manufacturers) make steel road bikes (usually, they are touring bikes but Jamis, Bianchi, Surly and some others do all sorts of bikes which are steel). Jamis (lots), Bianchi (lots), Surly (everything), Trek (520), Specialized (AWOL/Tricross steel/allez steel/etc. are still on shelves), Raleigh (lots), GT (some), Kona (some), Soma. There are also a lot of smaller manufacturers who do this as well as house labels/low cost labels (Planet X has the Kaffenback among others, Novara from REI has some, BikesDirect has some steel bikes as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really buy the roads wrecking decent aluminum frames though - certainly, it should be much worse than the Paris-Roubaix terrain... and not avoiding obstacles...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking at just framesets instead of complete bikes, a lot of the smaller brands do that (Soma, Surly, etc.) quite well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-09T01:04:33.877" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T01:04:33.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12450" CreationDate="2014-02-09T01:13:13.823" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;oh guys, get creative. rust is a chemical reaction. reverse the chemistry.&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/JkHyARsjNEg?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10265" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T01:13:13.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-09T03:09:06.273" Score="3" ViewCount="10486" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should a cheap fork be oiled / lubricated from time to time?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If yes, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-03-12T19:38:44.023" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T19:20:59.013" Title="Should cheap suspension forks be oiled often?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20280" CreationDate="2014-02-09T14:32:35.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replying from the UK. I don't know if that makes things easier or harder for you. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/help/delivery-restrictions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Evans Cycles&lt;/a&gt;, who I believe ship overseas come up with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/categories/bikes/road-bikes/f/steel#!&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; results if you search for steel road bikes. It might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4728" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T14:32:35.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20263" CreationDate="2014-02-09T15:37:44.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a bike with an Alfine 8 transmission. I plan to add a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hebie.de/index.php?id=67&amp;amp;L=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chain Glider&lt;/a&gt;. It will mean changing the front chain ring to one of the supported sizes, so I will buy the Chain Glider, a Surly chainring and new rear sprocket from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hebie-shophebie_pg1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SJS Cycles&lt;/a&gt; on the basis of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=4412.msg35315#msg35315&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=2233.0;wap2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/product/review-hebie-chainglider-33772/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; are some positive reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4728" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T15:37:44.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20294" CreationDate="2014-02-09T18:14:59.133" Score="2" ViewCount="824" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a few sets of tires for my road bike, some of which are the same type of varying ages, others have been used on the turbo trainer, or have a suspected sharp object in them which I could never find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like a way of marking the tires themselves so that I can keep track of their age and what they've been used for. Just a couple of letters or numbers would probably do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is what pen or paint could I use for this? As most tires are black, a normal permanent marker is no good. It would have to stay on the side wall through winter conditions without damaging the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything which would do the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T13:42:46.530" Title="How to mark a tire" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20293" CreationDate="2014-02-09T19:59:25.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Metallic marker would probably work with periodic reapplication. I'd also suspect spray paint would work as well (even on the outside). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For car tires, they sell tire paint pens (such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.duplicolor.com/products/hotTires/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;) which I think would work on a bicycle as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could just hang tags (like repair tags) on the tires and attach/detach them when you want to use that particular tire. If you have multiple ones in use, just keep track of the tires based on which rims they're on or something in a notebook and update the notebook when you're done.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T19:59:25.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-09T20:47:24.097" Score="2" ViewCount="7145" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my bike has Shimano Tiagra ST-4600/4603 brifters (it's a triple) but is fitted with long-drop BR-R451 calipers. In theory, these should be incompatible because of the change in cable pull ratio, which Shimano seem to call &quot;New Super SLR&quot; that happened in the 4500-&gt;4600 / 5600-&gt;5700 etc. transition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have found conflicting sources as to whether this is OK, including the Shimano compatibility chart at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.celebrazio.net/bicycling/shimano/2014_compatibility.html#chartbrake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hosted at Celebrazio&lt;/a&gt; which firmly says &quot;No!&quot; (although if you're using the flat-bar lever it's OK?); whereas the &lt;a href=&quot;http://productinfo.shimano.com/lineupchart.html#series=tiagra&amp;amp;speed=3x10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano Line-Up chart&lt;/a&gt; seems to think it's all right to use as an alternative to the short-reach in-series caliper. Also, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8656/replace-ultegra-6600-sti-lever?answertab=votes#tab-top&quot;&gt;previous edition of the compatibility chart&lt;/a&gt; says that mixing the older brakes with newer levers is permissible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume this is the same situation as using the short-reach brakes from a previous series of the groupset with the newer levers, in which case is there any solid advice about making the setup work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10272" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T20:53:13.353" Title="Use of Shimano long-reach calipers with &quot;New Super SLR&quot; brake levers/shifters" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-09T20:56:24.393" Score="1" ViewCount="5284" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the performance difference between getting speedplay zero stainless and titanium, 206g vs 164g. &#xA;Only focus on weight and not quality of bearings etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the difference won't be noticeable, but I would like to see the math :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say I pedal at 80 rpm, crank length 175mm, how many watt will I save getting the titanium edition? Feel free to define any other conditions, that I have left out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit&#xA;A lot of comments and answers, thanks :-) But they don't really address my question. As I wrote, I would like to see the calculations. Sure the whole thing is theoretical, but thats ok I guess?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5450" LastEditorUserId="5450" LastEditDate="2014-02-11T17:19:46.890" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T16:46:31.090" Title="Pedal weight and performance" Tags="&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20293" CreationDate="2014-02-09T22:51:11.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You use a reusable zip tie instead of marking the tire itself. Write the details on that, and put it on the bike frame or brake cable etc when the tire is on the bike and around the tire when its in storage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a simple numbering or letter system and a notebook for details would mean fewer letters and less chance of them being unreadable, while allowing as much detail as you can be bothered with being recorded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T22:51:11.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20296" CreationDate="2014-02-10T10:13:01.467" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spend the price difference on lighter tyres, tubes and rims, where the large radius has a significant contribution to inertia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T10:13:01.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20290" CreationDate="2014-02-10T13:02:03.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best is to try. Apply cheep oil form the hardware store (fine machine oil, $1) on both stanchions near the dust seals, compress several times, then wipe off the excess. See if the fork performs any better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My XCR fork does really begin acting like a fork, after I disassemble it, clean and grease. On the other hand, servicing a similarly-priced fork provided no benefit at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T13:02:03.047" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20293" CreationDate="2014-02-10T13:42:46.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not just use a simple paper inspection tag?  The kinds with the string where you just write on the tag the info you need, thread it to the tire, and done.  It is easy to remove and hang on the hook while the tire/wheel is in use so that you don't loose it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T13:42:46.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18882" CreationDate="2014-02-10T13:59:49.807" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, with lighter tires you might accelerate noticeably faster but you will also decelerate faster when you stop pedaling. This is because of the inertia of the spinning wheel. (inertia = mass X velocity)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you follow close behind an all carbon race bike you notice that it jumps forward with every pedal stroke whereas a steel framed bike with heavier wheels is much smoother in its motion. This is because the increased inertia of the heavier wheels and frame carry the bike and rider through the uneven pulses of power created by the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cycle on the flats there is minimal gain from lightweight gear. Slightly slower acceleration to get up to speed but once you are there it requires the same energy to stay there (given identical aerodynamics and rolling resistance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you are in the hills you have to lift that extra weight up to the top making a significant reduction in efficiency. (You lose much of that potential energy surfeit going back down the hill due to wind resistance and braking etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then why does that carbon race bike feel so fast on the flats? Probably because you just spent $5,000 on it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9188" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T13:59:49.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20280" CreationDate="2014-02-10T15:37:23.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;considering you had a bridgestone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main builder of bikes grant pederson started his own steel frame bike company called&#xA;rivendell bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rivbike.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rivbike.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;they might even be able to fix your current bike. email them and ask :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8970" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T15:37:23.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20280" CreationDate="2014-02-10T16:20:38.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specialized makes a Double Allex Steel as of last year.  Not exactly sure if it is still being manufactured, but I own the 2010 model, and it's a really good ride for a solid price (if you're into downtube shifters that is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10276" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T16:20:38.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20280" CreationDate="2014-02-10T16:59:01.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very few bicycle brands manufacture their own bicycles, other than perhaps top-end racing bikes. One exception is Giant, which is one of the largest bicycle manufacturers, but they don't make steel bikes anymore so far as I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the major manufacturers of steel bikes these days is a company in Taiwan called Maxway:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maxway.com.tw/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.maxway.com.tw/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;They sell steel bicycle frames of all types, including racing bikes, to many bike brands, likely including one in your country. Taiwanese sellers also often sell bikes and frames directly via eBay, if there isn't a local brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One American brand that uses Maxway frames, well-reputed for durability, is Surly. Their road model is the Pacer:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pacer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pacer&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;They have dealers in India, though apparently not in your state:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/dealers/#India&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/dealers/#India&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Surlys are often a couple pounds heavier than competitively-priced bikes, in exchange for being much harder to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T16:59:01.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20243" CreationDate="2014-02-10T21:15:32.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply for your two points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a front wheel you can buy or machine a part that will allow you to run a smaller axle on the front than the hub is equipped with. This an adapter to run a 15mm TA hub in 9mm drop outs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SocIl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;9mm to 15mm adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear is more difficult as hub sizes get wider with larger diameter thru axles. You couldn't make a 12x142 thru axle hub fit in a 10x135 QR dropout even if you shimmed the space at the end as the chain line would be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In terms of frame/ fork design, the design form for through axles offers no backwards compatibility with QR drop out design. I haven't seen and can find no evidence online of an adapter that allows you to run a 9mm hub in 15mm TA drop outs. That being said it could be possible to engineer something that created the required tension to hold the hub in place, but I wouldn't trust a home made solution. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-02-11T19:31:03.067" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T19:31:03.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20278" CreationDate="2014-02-11T00:42:28.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w63Eo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturer: Ralreigh (Heron Badge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike(s): Found on late 70's, early 80's road bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T00:42:28.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18443" CreationDate="2014-02-11T13:19:44.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tubus logo is a great rear rack and I used it on my touring bike with magura louise disk brakes for around 13,000m. More information and my experience on my websites at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weaveoftheride.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cycle touring across Europe&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://betweenworlds.bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Caucasus to India&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative would be to go for a seatpost mount or one of the other options mentioned here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T13:19:44.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-11T18:07:16.387" Score="2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a puncture in my tube (size 700c x 23c, Kendra, came with bike) and applied a vulcanizing glue and patch, then checked it. Before reinstalling the tube, there was now a new leak right next to the patch, but the air is definitely not escaping from the lip of the patch, just very close to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I added another patch. Now the same thing happened again: a new small leak right near the patch but not from the lip of the patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed these new leaks before reinstalling the tube, so the problem is not anything on the rim or in the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am relatively new at this so wanted to see if this has happened to others and what might be causing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the patch kit instructions, I applied pressure using the kit box from the center of the patch out. Would this potentially rip a new hole? Do I need to be very gentle with this step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8084" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-02-11T19:59:35.563" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T21:46:23.260" Title="Why would each patch produce a new leak before resintalling tube?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20309" CreationDate="2014-02-11T18:12:07.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have a sort of systematic effect, such as debris (puncture causing material) near the patch site, or missing rim tape or something depending on where the patch is. It may not be easy to find the causing material unless the tire is flexed under load though, which is why you might just not see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either that, or you're consistently not applying the patch right (which you just need to follow the directions in the patch kit). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T18:12:07.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20309" CreationDate="2014-02-11T18:20:48.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This kind of thing is common. I'm answering because I can't comment yet, but the previous answer nailed it. I just wanted to add. You need to really inspect the tire around where the punctures are happening. The worst thing is small bits of metal wire from decaying car tires that litter roads. They get stuck in the rubber in your bike tires and are really hard to spot. But when you put the new tube in and pump it up, the wire inevitably makes a new pinprick hole. Could be something else, but this is the most likely culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T18:20:48.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20313" CreationDate="2014-02-11T20:58:10.233" Score="14" ViewCount="21404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to change the rims of my bike and I have to choose between 32 or 36 (or 48 or any other variation). I never thought about this until now and I feel it's kind of a dumb question, but I don't have a clue if this has any perceptible impact or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I understand that more spokes means a stronger wheel, but also more spokes means a little bit more weight. Despite that, a spoke weights almost nothing so I think that's not a practical difference to take into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else? I ride a single speed bike mainly for city commuting, so is there any practical difference between choosing 32/36 spokes (or another number)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot people!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastEditorUserId="6652" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T13:54:36.393" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T12:36:14.447" Title="Why should I choose 36 or 32 spokes (or another number)?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20312" CreationDate="2014-02-11T21:11:30.730" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lower spoke numbers are primarily of interest to weight weenies (though for a given price, a lower spoke wheel will probably use a heavier rim offsetting the spoke reduction weight savings). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; is some good reading. There is also a whole book on how to build wheels well and design decisions, by Jobst Brandt, called &quot;The Bicycle Wheel&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What matters for most people is using a good amount of spokes, good spokes, a good rim and hub, and putting them together well (and how they're put together) - pretty much any wheel is going to be bad if the wheelbuilder messes up/sucks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavier riders often should go with a higher spoke number than a lower spoke number and tougher rims+spokes. According to Sheldon, it used to be that you'd run 36 front, 36 back then we started dropping. On a commuter, I'd emphasize durability, so I'd probably go with the more spoke option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is talk to a good wheel builder and assess your individual needs. If you got to the point where rim wear was what made you replace the rim, chances are you're fine with whatever you had. If you're replacing the rim, make sure to use new spokes and make sure the hub is in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T21:11:30.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20309" CreationDate="2014-02-11T21:46:23.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be doing everything right but have done something to get a series of small punctures.  For example, I have had the misfortune of riding across an empty lot littered with small cactus plants (I didn't known it at the time as I was visiting the area).  This left my tube littered with small punctures clustered together.  As I patched one hole I would find another when re-inflating the tube.  In my case the tube was basically a write-off and it took for ever to ensure the tire was usable again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know where you live or ride so the cactus example may or may not be applicable.  That said it is still possible that you have simply acquired a number of punctures due to an unfortunate incident. &lt;em&gt;Something like this is supported by the fact you notice new punctures even before you put the tube back into place.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T21:46:23.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14857" CreationDate="2014-02-11T22:08:52.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a front brake similar to yours (BR-IM70-F) and had the same problem. It turned out that I had not tightened the &quot;brake unit fixing nut&quot; properly which is the item number 2 in &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/BR/EV-BR-IM70-F-2205B_v1_m56577569830728395.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt;. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/RollerBrake/BR-IM70/SI-75F0B-001-EN_v1_m56577569830728642.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another document&lt;/a&gt; the nut should be tightened with a torque of 15-20 nm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10286" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T12:28:58.183" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T12:28:58.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19061" CreationDate="2014-02-12T17:35:43.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of bike are you riding, and what width are the tires? Looking at the answers, the only thing I don't see is a reference to the width of tires. Narrow road bike tires get more flats that wider hybrid or trail bike tires. When I was commuting on a road bike I was using Bontrager Hard Case and tire liners and still got too many flats. Of course what constitutes &quot;too many flats&quot; varies from person to person, but when I changed to a hybrid (keeping the same type of tire set up, except wider [32mm]), my problems ended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6737" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T17:35:43.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16156" CreationDate="2014-02-12T20:44:12.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I complained about the noise to ABUS and they told me they will substitute them, asap. It's a design/factory problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10289" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-02-13T02:08:12.410" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T02:08:12.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-12T22:48:37.597" Score="10" ViewCount="9414" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason why no companies are manufacturing front suspension for cx bikes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it limited by the UCI rules?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would weight mean it would offer no additional value?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if a light weight, low travel (&amp;lt;80mm), skinny stanchion (&amp;lt;28mm) would make any difference to speed when off-roading. Comfort wise I imagine the difference would be huge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen a picture of Lemond racing with a Rockshox fork so definitely been thought of in the past for road bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T23:20:45.587" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T15:28:38.743" Title="Front suspension on a cyclocross bike?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20318" CreationDate="2014-02-13T02:05:23.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: I don't do cyclocross, so this is mostly speculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess its primarily a weight issue, as well as the culture of the people who do cyclocross. I did find a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cxmagazine.com/calfee-debuts-micro-suspension-cyclocross-road-bikes-sea-otter-2013&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer doing rear suspension&lt;/a&gt; though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://goabloc.tumblr.com/post/48899864935/suspension-in-cyclocross-an-argument-for&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; is also interesting reading. The author first notes that suspension would make the ground contact better, but the weight or geometry changes seem to be problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that link, I'd like to quote from that article &quot;UCI rules make no prohibition against suspension in cyclocross or road bikes, and road bikes with suspension forks have been used in UCI-sanctioned events before.&quot; In particular, it references &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gear/article/paris-roubaix-bikes-how-theyve-evolved-33631/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on how suspension was used in the Paris-Roubaix and how the culture didn't appreciate suspension at first. They also note that current bike design focuses more on tube shaping and carbon fiber.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T02:05:23.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20318" CreationDate="2014-02-13T02:13:58.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross courses are (generally) too smooth and relatively fast to warrant the use of suspension. Sure, it might be more comfortable, but the added weight would only slow you down and leave you behind  your competitors on a typical muddy course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T02:13:58.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20322" CreationDate="2014-02-13T07:07:42.940" Score="12" ViewCount="1831" Body="&lt;p&gt;On one of my bicycles (a 2012 Trek Madone 4.7), when climbing very steep hills, I have had problems with the front wheel coming off the ground. This creates an extremely dangerous situation because when this happens one loses all steering control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have any recourse beyond choosing a less steep route, getting less fat (catch 22), or using a different bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T20:29:34.733" Title="How can I prevent or mitigate the front wheel coming off the ground when climbing steep hills?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20321" CreationDate="2014-02-13T08:04:58.733" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Move your weight further forward to keep the front wheel weighted. Shuffle forwards on your seat and bring your chest closer to the bars. Standing can help for the steepest parts, but can cause your rear wheel to slip on loose surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front wheel is lifting as when your bike is on a slope the wheelbase is effectively shortened, bringing your weight closer to the rear axle, and the most vertical part of the &lt;em&gt;wheelie&lt;/em&gt; is already done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T08:04:58.733" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20325" CreationDate="2014-02-13T12:24:09.453" Score="2" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to detach my handlebar, because lowering was insufficient to make my bicycle fit in my box.  I detached the long screw going connecting two lids thereby fastening the stem-handlebar connection, but the lid of the left side is stuck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jeJ71.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stuck lid&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use some gentle violence here, or do I need to unstuck the lid in a different way?  I'm not sure if there is a thread &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the hole, and I'm not quite sure why the cap has ripples.  I don't want to destroy anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I'm not sure if my terminology is correct overall&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2014-02-13T14:01:07.640" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T14:04:18.567" Title="Screw cap stuck in adjustable stem connection, how to remove or reattach?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20323" CreationDate="2014-02-13T14:02:50.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved by detaching the other side and spraying the inside with WD-40.  Then, simply tightening the screw on the other side led to the previously stuck side being drawn inward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To detach my handlebar, I instead followed &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20323/screw-cap-stuck-in-adjustable-stem-connection-how-to-remove-or-reattach#comment35487_20323&quot;&gt;the suggestion in arnes comment&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T14:02:50.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20323" CreationDate="2014-02-13T14:04:18.567" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pro-bikegear.com/en-gb/catalogue/components/81/stems/pr316001_main/adjustable-stem&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is your stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it is the whole unit from the bars to the top of the fork, including the adjustable bit in the middle. Most dan't have this and I think this is where the confusion is coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove your bars for packing, it is usual to remove the 4 bolts on the face plate on the stem. That is the part immediately touching the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've removed the bars, you'll want to tape or strap them to the frame somehow so they're not dangling and pulling on the cables. You shouldn't need to remove anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not remove the bars by undoing the 1 bolt that adjusts the angle, as you have already, I can't find any diagrams of how it all works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not remove the bars by undoing the 2 bolts that hold the stem onto the fork as this will remove the forks as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T14:04:18.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19085" CreationDate="2014-02-13T15:49:44.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen videos of an aluminum frame snapping at the weld where the front vertical shaft (where the fork is mounted to) shears off the two horizontal/crossbars. Though these people were doing lots of big jumps on their mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you will have issues with snapping in either case. A number of factors come into play here. Material quality (mixtures, purities, impurties, etc), how the material was formed (die-cast, poured, laser metal sintering, etc), the quality of the welds or glues that hold it together (I am assuming they use some form of gluing for carbon fiber), material thickness, construction design, and a few other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest benefit you get from either material over steel is low weight, with carbon fiber being the lightest by far. The next benefit is corrosion/rusting. Aluminum doesn't rust. But it can be corroded. Carbon fiber isn't a metal, so rusting has no possibility. But I would think that it would be more sensitive to acids and bases when it comes to corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steels biggest advantage is flexibility, it will bend a lot more before it breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using aluminum bikes as of recently and they are plenty light for me for my mountain biking. I don't do any big jumps (at this point). So I don't know how it would hold up for that. But I can see it holding up pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if I were doing a bunch of jumps I would want something with enough heft that I could more easily keep it under me. I would be worried that carbon fiber would be so light weight that I could lose it to a stiff wind while in mid air if I loosen my grip too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say this. Those carbon fiber road bikes are freaking sweet. I never thought I would be able to pickup a bicycle with one finger until I saw one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9103" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T15:49:44.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20321" CreationDate="2014-02-13T19:39:21.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that your bike is not set up correctly and your centre of gravity is too far back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to consider is what is the predominant terrain you are riding? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If its mostly flat consider using a technique such as alex has&#xA;suggested in his answer to cover pinch climbs and small hills.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your doing a lot of climbing (sitting on the front of your seat&#xA;is uncomfortable and more suited to mtb) the second thing is to&#xA;change the set up of your bike to fit you better. One of the biggest&#xA;misconceptions made by bike stores when they set a bike up for&#xA;people seems to be that they believe the rider is going to spend&#xA;their life riding around parking lots. Thankfully this isn't true,&#xA;but it does mean that many people have their bike fitted for flat&#xA;land rather than climbing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are things you can try at home &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;but I would recommend talking to a professional to get their expert advice on the correct fit for your style and terrain&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slide your seat forward in the rails (you may need to adjust the&#xA;height also for your leg length)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reconfigure the spacers on your stem (move the spacers above the stem&#xA;and see if that has an effect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;experiment with different stem lengths (this usually requires you to&#xA;buy or borrow many stems to get the right one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people spend thousands on a bike then scrimp on a $100 fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T19:39:21.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="441" CreationDate="2014-02-14T03:51:59.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't get a replacement hood, try making one yourself.  Here I have stretched a section of 26 x 1.5 - 2.0 inner tube over the brake lever.  The inner tube fits better if you cut off the tip of the &quot;horn&quot; of the aero levers.  With these Shimano Exage Action BL-A351 levers you can slip the edge of the rubber under the plastic front of the lever to help hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lump at the bottom of the dip in the brake lever is caused by a metal tab.  I'd cover that with a leftover piece of padded handlebar tape before adding the inner tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid the seams on the surface of the rubber, try turning the inner tube inside out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rofpn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pi63G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6686" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T03:51:59.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20318" CreationDate="2014-02-14T04:04:55.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides weight, suspension robs you off energy when pedaling, by compressing when you push on the pedal (and rebounding between strokes so the energy spent compressing is wasted). Pedaling is obviously more important in cyclocross than MTB, hence no suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8137" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T04:04:55.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20321" CreationDate="2014-02-14T04:19:16.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can work on a pedal stroke that applies pressure for a larger portion of the rotation of the pedals. That will reduce the peak force that is causing the wheel to lift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T04:19:16.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19114" CreationDate="2014-02-14T04:57:27.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks a lot like the bikes in some bike-sharing programs (take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File%3aStockholm-City-Bikes.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, from Stockholm City Bikes). The two &quot;prongs&quot; at the end of the front &quot;basket&quot; would be used to lock the bike in place at one of the stations. The panels in the back are often used for advertising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T04:57:27.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18896" CreationDate="2014-02-14T12:11:51.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yaktrax and simila all increase the risk of a tangle. However, one must test with your specific shoes, cleats and pedals to see how high the risk of entanglement is. That risk must then be evaluated against the risk of slipping when dismounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to use studded shoes. They are harder to use together with toe clips than normal shoes because you can not slide your shoe on the pedal. The risk of entanglement, however, should be pretty nonexistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of buying studded shoes you could also buy threaded studs such &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.best-grip.se/bestgrip-3000/16-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;as these from Bestgrip&lt;/a&gt; and screw them into your normal cycling shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4483" LastEditorUserId="4483" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T15:07:56.323" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T15:07:56.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20339" CreationDate="2014-02-14T12:33:42.033" Score="1" ViewCount="7230" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear fixed-gear wheel seized up yesterday on my commute home.  I suspect it's the result of my bone-headed adjustment after replacing a broken locknut on the axle (I may not have put the new locknut on tight enough).  The wheel now refuses to turn - the axle is bound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious though: what has actually happened inside?  I noticed it happen over one or two revolutions, as if something was wrapping around the wheel.  Could it be that a bearing cage came loose and wrapped around the axle somehow?  I've tried to take it apart and see, but though I got the locknuts off, I've nearly rounded off the cones themselves (and ruined a cone wrench) trying to get them unscrewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10302" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T23:38:40.747" Title="What causes a wheel to seize?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20335" CreationDate="2014-02-14T13:39:30.497" Score="8" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering switching from alloy to carbon wheels - just a question regarding that &amp;amp; brakes. Would I need different pad materials from the standard sort of pad material (or even a whole different type of brake mechanisms)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T15:20:36.703" Title="brakes for carbon rims" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20334" CreationDate="2014-02-14T15:10:47.080" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most carbon rim manufacturers like zipp and enve recommend a brake pad of their own.  However, there are typically several pads that will work.  Most of these pads are designed specifically to work well on carbon rims. Regular brake pads from alloy rims should not be used on carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zipp &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zipp.com/support/maintenance/brakepads.php&quot;&gt;recommends&lt;/a&gt; the following pads for their rims:&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zipp Tangente Platinum Pro&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zipp Tangente cork pads&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bontrager cork pads&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zipp carbon/carbon pads&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SwissStop yellow pads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I would check with the manufacturer of your rims to see what pads they recommend and stick with those, otherwise you could be voiding your warranty on an expensive set of rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leonard Zinn (author of &lt;em&gt;Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintinance&lt;/em&gt; and owner of Zinn Cycles) recommends against using regular pads on carbon rims.  See the following from the article in &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2005/11/bikes-and-tech/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-carbon-questions_9143&quot;&gt;velonews&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can say from personal experience that standard brake pads on&#xA;  carbon rims are grabbier, giving louder, less predictable, potentially&#xA;  dangerous braking, and they wear faster, even melting down rapidly at a&#xA;  critical moment on a long, fast, tortuous descent, leaving you with no&#xA;  brakes at all. Furthermore, conventional pads on carbon rims are&#xA;  down right scary in the rain, making for unpredictable braking until the&#xA;  rim is wiped clear of water enough for them to grab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T15:20:36.703" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T15:20:36.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20338" CreationDate="2014-02-14T15:25:02.133" Score="3" ViewCount="1417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought myself a Shimano Deore M592 set without shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now in the process of getting them as well but am not sure if I can put any 3/9 speed shifter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I only need to take care of this or is there something else I have to watch for when choosing shifters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3169" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T17:28:41.370" Title="Shimano 9 speed shifters" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20318" CreationDate="2014-02-14T15:28:38.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could probably find a short travel fork designed for a hybrid bike and put that on your cross bike. However, I havn't seen this happen at any races that I've been to.  It's more typical for non-pro riders to use a mountain bike instead of a cyclocross bike to compete in cyclocross races.  The shocks do soak up a bit of pedaling effort, which is why they tend to be less desirable.  Most modern MTB shocks can be locked out, and that's probably preferrable for the terrain of most cyclocross courses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet to reduce the effect of bumpy terrain is to adjust the tire pressure according to the conditions. You may want to consider tubeless tire systems to prevent pinch flats at lower pressures.  Smooth tracks will warrant high pressures, but rough courses may be more optimal riding at lower pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro races set tire size limit to around 33mm, however most non-pro events have very loose restrictions on actual tire size.  So consider running larger tires at lower pressure if you are concerned about the jarring effects of the ride without suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T15:28:38.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20336" CreationDate="2014-02-14T16:45:28.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should use Shimano mountain bike shifters (Acera, Alivio, Deore, etc.) which have the same # of chainrings and same # of cogs on the cassette. So if you're running a triple in the front and a 9 speed cassette in the back, you want a 3x9 shifter set. The road bike ones (Sora, Tiagra, 105, Claris, Ultegra, etc. - even flat bar ones, like the Sora flat bars) will not work because they use different cable pull in the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't use SRAM shifters other than the SRAM Attack line (which are friction front, indexed rear, so you'll see the ones for a 3 x 9 setup just marketed as a 9 speed setup), since they have different cable pulls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Microshift also make ones compatible with Shimano as well in the XE Marvo line (but I don't know anyone who has actually used a Microshift shifter on a mountain bike - usually its just their bar ends on a Surly road bike or similar). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T17:28:41.370" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T17:28:41.370" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20333" CreationDate="2014-02-14T17:13:10.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is rare for a bike bearing to suddenly seize.  Even a bearing &quot;run dry&quot; or exposed to saltwater or whatever will generally just get rough and squeaky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to seize you generally have one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Rare) A fragment of something -- sand, a sliver of metal, etc -- gets in between the balls in the bearing, causing them to lock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Common) The failure to properly fasten a lock nut or other fastener results in one of the bearing cones being &quot;screwed&quot; more and more tightly into the bearing, eventually making the bearing too tight to turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that the above second case rarely results in &quot;fatal&quot; damage (though it may have the effect of adding a few thousand miles to bearing wear).  So long as the situation is corrected and the bearing not &quot;forced&quot; to ride a considerable distance the damage is usually minor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T17:13:10.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11232" CreationDate="2014-02-14T18:49:19.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert on the subject but a few months ago I put a road saddle I had on my hardtail mountain bike and within about 5 rides one of the rails busted. So, it seems that a maker of road saddles may use lighter / less solid material for the rails to keep weight down - but obviously that's just something to investigate when considering a saddle for MTB use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10308" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T18:49:19.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20333" CreationDate="2014-02-15T23:38:40.747" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you over tighten the  nut it will squash the  bearing cage and damage the  axel if your not careful ie new wheel &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10269" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T23:38:40.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2014-02-16T16:02:58.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think its largely a style and personal preference thing, as well as carrying capacity these days. I find it a lot easier to find a reasonable sized messenger bag which can fit some books as well as my computer and a change of clothes than a decent sized backpack these days due to the monstrosity of those laptop compartments among other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The riding style and conditions also come into play. Since a backpack has 2 (or possibly 3 straps if you have a chest strap), it doesn't move much when riding around (and I would be inclined to think that it balances the pressure on the straps better than a messenger bag - certainly, when I switched from backpack to messenger bag, I found it uncomfortable at first). A messenger bag can move to some degree (which is useful, if you're say a bike courier), but if you're riding on snow/ice (say, you're a winter commuter), a messenger bag can be a bit of a liability due to the mobility. There are &quot;cross straps&quot; that Timbuk2 sells for their bags which cinch the bag down to your body, which are useful for reducing this movement, but it is a bit more than a backpack even so. [The extreme version of this would be a messenger bag Camelbak, which probably wouldn't work for mountain biking well. ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-02-16T16:02:58.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-17T06:45:18.990" Score="-1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using a Hercules MTB thriller,I drive a maximum of 75 km per week. When should I schedule periodic, quarterly full service for the bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10318" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T22:33:32.147" Title="What is minimum period by which my cycles should be service?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-02-18T06:00:53.007" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19077" CreationDate="2014-02-17T12:59:17.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have water proof panniers made of soft plastic, patches made for fixing holes in bike tubes are really great (depending on the size of the holes in the panniers of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10322" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T12:59:17.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20351" CreationDate="2014-02-17T13:24:10.697" Score="3" ViewCount="1586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to build a &quot;bakfiets&quot;; a cargo-trike with the box in front.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've found several resources, but none of them talk about the framebuilding material.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What is are my material options; steel? what thickness is best to choose? do I choose a square or U-profile.&#xA;One of the things I'm very concerned about is weight: the stronger the frame, the heavyer it will be. I can't work with aluminium.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4140" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T21:24:19.003" Title="building a cargo trike (bakfiets): steel thickness" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2014-02-17T18:52:39.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two bikes. An older (1980s) Nishiki, heavier bike chromoloy frame that my LSB claims is too big (probably equivalent to a 58cm), and a new light aluminum 56cm Cannondale that feels too small but that is my &quot;exact&quot; fit according to the sizing charts. (I'm 5'10&quot; with a 30-inch inseam.) Anyway, the bigger bike is my preferred bike. It might have to do with a longer wheelbase (3-4 inches longer), but the bigger bike performs better. Fast going downhills (faster than the Cannondale and everyone else I have ever ridden with) and much more stable. Quick on starts too. Slower climbing and not as many gears. I know there are a lot variables here, but I think size (or wheelbase) is the most important one. And don't think sizing charts and LSB's have all the answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10325" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T18:52:39.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20348" CreationDate="2014-02-17T21:17:21.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest starting with a prototype made out of square tube and old bikes, especially if this is your first framebuilding project. Square tubing is a bit easier to work with (you spend less time mitring tubes) and the goal for the prototype is that it should be easy to build. Take shortcuts, in other words. Get something you can ride, then ride it. When things break, fix them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as wall thickness, I'd buy whatever is cheapest. Weight for the prototype is not critical. For a final build in chrome-moly steel the thickness will depend on tubing size and how much stress it's under. You can buy plain gauge cold drawn 4130 steel tube in a range of sizes and wall thicknesses, usually by the metre. Which ones you want will depend on the detailed design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Groups like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atomiczombie.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Atomic Zombie&lt;/a&gt; and a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/building.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HPV&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velomobiles.net/building/building.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;velomobile&lt;/a&gt; enthusiasts spend a lot of time just working this way, because it's cheap so you can afford to build things just for fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site shows a &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/long/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;steel prototype&lt;/a&gt; long john bike built and ridden, then eventually &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/long-2/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CroMo final bike&lt;/a&gt; built. There's some description of the design process and you can see the idea progress from welding random bits onto a steel chassis rail through to riding the finished bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One note of caution: you will need to tilt the pivot axle back from vertical to get more stability, but that design is inherently unstable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T21:24:19.003" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T21:24:19.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20345" CreationDate="2014-02-17T22:33:32.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the bike you have, just keep the chain oiled and the brakes tight.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;There is no point in bothering to service anything else, as regardless of what you do it will just drop off one fine day. In any case, single speed commuters don't need much maintenance.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;The bike has really poor build quality.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Go to your bike shop to get stuff fixed when you have real problems.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;As it is you'll have to throw away the bike in about 3 years(if you use it as much as you claim).&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;To everyone else reading the answer, the bike in question is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.junglee.com/Hercules-Thriller-Black-Arabian-gold/dp/B0087CKVJS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. A $75(USD) commuter BSO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3062" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T22:33:32.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20359" CreationDate="2014-02-18T07:41:17.420" Score="7" ViewCount="1933" Body="&lt;p&gt;As fixie-biking is really trendy at the moment, i often see fixie riders 'skidding' and stopping their bike by blocking their backwheel.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this only works by shifting the riders weight to the front of the wheel i recently wondered if there is a physical limit (like weight) where this braking method will not work anymore because the pressure on the back wheel is still to big to skid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6072" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T14:41:33.493" Title="Physical limits for a fixie rider" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20353" CreationDate="2014-02-18T09:45:33.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume that rider weight wouldn't prevent this as a heavier rider is going to have more momentum to maintain the skid. They are also going to be more able to hold the wheel stationary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time the bike slows dramatically, the weight will be shifted forwards even further, so good grip on the rear wheel will then reduce leading to a skid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T09:45:33.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-18T14:23:49.197" Score="3" ViewCount="6992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to convert my Surly Cross Check into a Campagnolo set up. The problem I am having is i have Shimano Deore Hubs on Mavic rims at present. I would rather not buy new wheels, so I am looking at the possibility of swapping the free hub body to a campag splined one free hub body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am finding it difficult to get answers to the question if I can swap a shimano free hub body for a campag one and be able to attach it to the existing Deore hub or if I need to replace the complete hub for a campag one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10333" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T18:37:26.250" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T09:04:14.390" Title="Can I swap a shimano free hub body for a campag one and be able to attach it to the existing Deore hub?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-18T15:08:10.097" Score="5" ViewCount="3387" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to learn to bleed my new disc brakes. While there is a wealth of knowledge on the topic, it is difficult to tell the difference between pedantic explanations and sloppy work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoaPUw5DliA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avid bleeding instruction video&lt;/a&gt; a meticulous procedure is explained, of course using their proprietary kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFuwoEYvt_w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;disc brake bleeding&lt;/a&gt; seems much simplified, and the kit is different (simpler).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The avid kit looks really cool, with the clips on the hoses. And is not very expensive, at $60. Can it be used to bleed any kind of brake? With an adapter? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The avid instruction stresses removing any air from the liquid prior to the bleed (they clamp the hose of the syringe and pull on the piston). Why is this not done in the Shimano video? I went to a (good) mechanic with my Shimano BR-M395 and he didn't do such a thing. He didn't even unscrew the caliper fluid bolt - only operated on the lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is Magura Mineral oil fully compatible with Shimano mineral oil brakes? Can the two kinds of oil be mixed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the LBS they told me that the procedure is complicated with Avids, because their caliper design is awkward, easily trapping air. On the other hand, Shimano brakes are expected to fill up properly and without air by just tapping the hose while filling. Is this true?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other differences between the procedures for Avid, Shimano, Magura, Tekrto, Clark's?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it true that the oil is very dangerous for the skin and the eyes, and gloves &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be worn?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T17:40:50.163" Title="What is the difference in procedures for bleeding different disc brakes?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20357" CreationDate="2014-02-18T15:26:34.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different brakes use different designs and different fluids, and as such have slightly different bleed kits and procedures. I've answered what I can below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The avid instruction stresses removing any air from the liquid prior to the bleed (they clamp the hose of the syringe and pull on the piston). Why is this not done in the Shimano video?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect Shimano don't consider it to be necessary for their brakes. The fluid used in Avid and Shimano brakes is &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; different, so I imagine it needs to be handled differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is Magura Mineral oil fully compatible with Shimano mineral oil brakes? Can the two kinds of oil be mixed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, yes, different brands of mineral fluid are compatible (including the stuff used in Citroen cars). If you switch to another brand of mineral fluid, it's probably best to flush the brake entirely, rather than just bleeding. however, &lt;strong&gt;DOT fluid cannot be used in a Mineral fluid brake&lt;/strong&gt;, and vice-versa. DOT will eat through the seals used in Mineral brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the LBS they told me that the procedure is complicated with Avids, because their caliper design is awkward, easily trapping air. On the other hand, Shimano brakes are expected to fill up properly and without air by just tapping the hose while filling. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the current Avid brakes, but Avids do have a reputation for being really difficult to bleed properly. The older levers also trapped air above the bleed port. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For current Shimano brakes I use a syringe and push fluid through from the bottom to the top when bleeding them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any other differences between the procedures for Avid, Shimano, Magura, Tekrto, Clark's?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but you'd need to refer to the various manufacturers documentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it true that the oil is very dangerous for the skin and the eyes, and gloves must be worn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DOT4/5 fluid is horrible stuff. Mineral fluid is less nasty. In both cases you don't want it anywhere near your eyes and should probably avoid getting it in your skin. But the warnings you see in videos and on literature are largely a legal thing: They don't want you to be able to sue them if you blind yourself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastEditorUserId="4307" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T16:45:03.840" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T16:45:03.840" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20353" CreationDate="2014-02-18T16:46:46.547" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are more factors involved. Gearing being a major one - it is much easier to skid on a 38x18 compared to a 50x14 which is more like a track ratio.&#xA;Other major factors include road surface, rider strength, dry/wet, tyre width, tread pattern, rubber compound and inflation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, as others have mentioned additional weight might actually make it easier to skid given increased momentum and pedal resistance provided they shift their weight appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say there is no practical upper limit for rider weight but gearing and tyre characteristics (a really fat slick tyre with a big contact patch on dry tarmac) could prevent it. Nevertheless, skidding the rear wheel is an ineffective way to slow or stop your bike even if it is good fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="5740" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T17:06:25.467" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T17:06:25.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-18T17:23:55.123" Score="2" ViewCount="3247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Garmin Edge 200, which I like quite a bit. But I would like a GPS that has mapping capabilities. I don't need the training features. I'm curious about the quality of the maps in the Garmin Touring. It looks like they are based on some sort of open source maps. Does anyone have this unit and can comment on the quality and accuracy of the maps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1610" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T18:57:58.820" Title="Garmin Edge Touring - Quality of the maps" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-02-24T02:31:59.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20360" CreationDate="2014-02-18T17:47:25.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The map-capable Garmin cycling units come with a solid basemap with the ability to add additional maps, and the Touring unit has a micro SD slot to make this even easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted the maps that come with are good for a point of reference, I wouldn't recommend Garmin's maps for any substantial route finding. If you're trying to find a safe bicycle route around town, use google maps. If you're heading off road or out into the woods, make sure you print out the maps you're using so that you're not stranded when batteries die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T17:47:25.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20360" CreationDate="2014-02-18T18:42:49.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the Garmin Oregon 450 and it works great as a cycling GPS. Garmin sells a very good GPS mount for this model as well. It's a little bulkier than most of the cycling specific GPS Units, but for the price you pay, the features are way better then what you would get from one of the cycling models. It also supports loading on maps from OpenStreetMap which will provide quite good maps (may vary by your location).  The batteries are standard AAs which will allow you to easily carry extra batteries if you need to.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T18:42:49.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20357" CreationDate="2014-02-18T18:49:57.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's necessary to understand the design of the systems to understand why Avid requires a separate bleed kit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a significant difference in the design of the brake system between Avid and other manufacturers such as Shimano and this is the main reason on why Avid have a proprietary bleed kit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although an 'open' hydraulic system Avid's Taperbore resembles a 'closed' system, one that operates in a vacuum. The Avid system uses a small reservoir fixed amount of fluid in the system and a bladder around the master piston with air in it. Shimano and other brands use a larger reservoir with a bladder separating the brake fluid (in this case mineral oil) and air. In both cases air is used to compensate for the fluid in the system expanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the Avid system operates in a vacuum it requires all air to be removed from the system and that is why you need the two syringe set, other designs simply require fluid to be topped up in the reservoir and air worked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the different brake fluids have different characteristics (boiling points, freezing points, amount of expansion etc.). Avid specifies DOT 4 and 5.1, which is a pain. Like all solvents you don't want to get it on your hands but it isn't going to kill you unless you work with it everyday without protection. DOT fluid is hygroscopic, it attracts water so although you can buy it in larger quantities cheaper than through Avid it doesn't have a good shelf life once opened and probably shouldn't be opened again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To bleed Elixirs you don't need a Avid bleed kit, just a hose barb that fits and some generic hose. I use the brass hose barb which is for my Rockshox x-loc and generic hose and syringes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can do a less complicated &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikefat.com/tech-tips-avid-juicy-and-elixer-speed-bleed/&quot;&gt;'speed bleed'&lt;/a&gt; to remove air from the system, but a full bleed is better. I bleed the brakes on my hack/ commuter but leave it up to the wrench at my LBS to bleed the brakes on my XC bike (I just don't see the point in paying a few hundred for good brakes and then not getting them optimised by a professional).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T18:49:57.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20360" CreationDate="2014-02-18T18:57:58.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Edge Touring comes with a preloaded &quot;Garmin Cycle Map&quot;. This is based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openstreetmap.org/&quot;&gt;OpenStreetMap&lt;/a&gt;, so you can check the OSM website to see how good coverage is for the areas you are interested in. In general, OSM is rather good for roads in most of Western Europe, and much of the USA. Many areas also have lots of cycle paths and trails mapped. It is often more accurate and up to date than other maps. Plus if something is wrong or missing, you can edit the map to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Garmin Cycle Map is designed specifically for cycling, so highlights relevant features, eg cycle paths. If using the navigation, it is designed to route you along paths or minor roads where possible. And it contains height data, so it can show elevation profiles or route to avoid hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note you can download other OSM based maps in Garmin format for free, then put these on the Edge instead. These are available in a variety of different styles, which you may prefer. Also they may be more up to date, which is useful if you are adding of editing things on OpenStreetMap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can buy other maps from Garmin, eg City Navigator, then use these on the Edge. These can be expensive, depending on how large an area you want. And City Navigator only contains roads, not paths etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T18:57:58.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20321" CreationDate="2014-02-18T20:29:34.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of a herniated disc in my lower back, I was forced to NOT PULL with my hands on steeps. Surprisingly, I found that by concentrating all of my energy below my belt, I could climb much better and faster. This was definitely a &quot;lemonade from lemons&quot; kind of discovery. Try this and see if it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6867" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T20:29:34.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2014-02-18T20:37:09.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dogs are territorial. Get out of its territory. I have tried spraying and missed, swinging my pump and missed, and each time almost wrecked. If I'm not fast enough, I just get off my bike and walk out its/their territory while using my bike as a shield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6867" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T20:37:09.533" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-18T21:47:32.057" Score="2" ViewCount="2237" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you download free Open Street Maps (OSM) data on to an SD card for garmin edge 800 / 810 for use in navigation and turn by turn directions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T02:19:04.177" Title="How do you download OSM maps to Garmin Edge?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;maps&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-18T22:20:43.090" Score="-1" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Shimano ST-3300 brake lever doesn't return completely, leaving a one inch gap instead of being completely closed.  It is off of the bike and there are no cables attached.  Any ideas?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10338" LastEditorUserId="10338" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T20:45:05.033" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T20:45:05.033" Title="Shimano ST-3300 brake lever doesn't return fully" Tags="&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-02-24T02:31:32.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20368" CreationDate="2014-02-18T22:43:12.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few different reasons for why this could be happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pinch bolt is loose on the brake calipers, and the cable is pulling itself out, thus introducing slack in the line. Not likely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since these are aero brifters, the cable housing probably runs along your handlebars. This can introduce harsh angles that apply alot of friction inside the housing and cause the cable to not pull freely. Check the connection of the housing to the brake levers, and any other places where there is a tight turn for the housing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the cable is old and rusty, it will lose its frictionless coating and cause a lot of pain for braking. In this case, replace the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T22:43:12.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20356" CreationDate="2014-02-18T22:47:10.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't found any campy replacement freehub for a deore... esp since shimano uses different incompatible freehub bodies for its different hubs, and Deore being a mountain group, campy being mostly road, I don't see there being any market for such a conversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if you find a replacement campy rear hub with a similar flange size, you could just swap the hubs. YOu would need a spoke wrench and truing stand, and some general wheelbuilding knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: not sure how much of a perfectionist you are, but you could just run a campy rd and shifters on a shimano cassette. See:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/drivetrain-mixing.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/drivetrain-mixing.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T22:47:10.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20372" CreationDate="2014-02-19T04:00:54.850" Score="1" ViewCount="1569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a folding bike (think Dahon like) with 20&quot; wheels and a front chainring of 52T and a rear cassette of 14-24T. Although 14 provides me with good speed I'd love to get faster speed for less spinning. I found a 7 speed cassette that is 11t-28t (Shimano HG30-7 which is 11t,13t,15t,18t,21t,24t,28t) and wondering if just switching the cassette would work or if I'd also need to switch out the rear derailleur as well (I think it is a Shimano TZ-21) and potentially also the chain (longer?)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10343" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T17:41:47.217" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T17:41:47.217" Title="Can I change the rear cassette on a folding bike?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20371" CreationDate="2014-02-19T04:56:41.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't say for sure, but you have a decent chance of being able to just adjust the body screw on the derailleur to increase its clearance for the larger cassette (see &quot;B-screw Adjustment&quot; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've also noted, the chain will be tighter when in that lower rear gear, which might work but more likely than not you're going to have some difficulty shifting into low rear gear and/or front big chainring without making the chain longer. You can potentially just splice in another link or three (most LBSs will give them out for free, although make sure you know what type of chain you have -- probably standard seven speed) rather than purchasing a whole new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T04:56:41.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20356" CreationDate="2014-02-19T07:08:23.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simplest 'good' solution is probably getting a conversion cassette - campagnolo spacing but with a shimano spline so it'll fit on your existing hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one from ambrosio would probably do the trick - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.probikekit.com.au/bicycle-cassettes-sprockets/ambrosio-cassette-shimano-fit-for-campagnolo-10-speed/10768425.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.probikekit.com.au/bicycle-cassettes-sprockets/ambrosio-cassette-shimano-fit-for-campagnolo-10-speed/10768425.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things will probably be harder if you want to go 11 speed though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10299" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T07:08:23.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20367" CreationDate="2014-02-19T11:37:01.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get map files that work on Garmin devices (I haven't tried with Edge) from &lt;a href=&quot;http://garmin.openstreetmap.nl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;. You can select predefined areas (countries, provinces) of the world you want, or create custom selections of just your area. They generate a map of your desired area and send you an email when its ready so you can download it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T11:37:01.193" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20376" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-19T15:02:43.183" Score="2" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an idea and I'm wondering if it's feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an upcoming recumbent cargo touring build, I wonder if I could say use an 8-speed hub gear connected directly to an identical 8-speed hub gear, or three hub gears 4*4*4, to get logically 64 gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sorts of problems might there be?&#xA;I don't have any particular parts in mind regarding ratios, but does anyone do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good examples of how to do a high number of gears right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole point of this would be to be able to drive the bike up anything from a long ridiculous 30% grade at walking pace to an easy 100km/h on a straightaway with fairing. Is that feasible using a large number of gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6146" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T19:08:38.047" Title="Using a series of hub gears" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20376" CreationDate="2014-02-19T15:24:08.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The HP Velotechnik Scorpion is available with three front chain rings, three-gear internal hub, 8-speed rear derailleur setup. This has the additional advantage that you can shift while stopped, e.g. after emergency stops or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it rather tedious to keep the overview over which gear I'm currently in. My Velomobiel Quest has triple front, 9-speed rear derailleur and that covers enough ground for me. Walking pace is not a problem and I spin out at about 70km/h, which is already pretty hard to keep up, even with race fairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you live, riding 70km/h is already pretty dangerous taking into account that trikes cannot brake too well because the rear wheel will lift off pretty quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T15:24:08.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20412" CreationDate="2014-02-19T15:58:15.890" Score="12" ViewCount="3469" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past, I personally have only used WD-40. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have occasionally had my bicycle looked over at the locally run, free service sessions and most of the mechanics there use a hand applied type of greasy gel (I forget the name).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is WD-40 suitable for bicycle chains?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would alternatives provide better chain longevity?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When shopping around for lubricant, what are the most important things to look for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What do you use and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(optional added extra) Any tips for reducing chain wear?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8279" LastEditorUserId="8279" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T16:09:24.280" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T20:16:28.357" Title="What should I look for when buying chain lube / lubricant?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20378" CreationDate="2014-02-19T16:38:10.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stop using WD-40. It's not a lube but a degreaser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to consider when buying a chain lube is your riding conditions. There are dry and wet chain lubes. Choose accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any tips for reducing chain wear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the chain is relativelly clean and dry before relubing. Relubing a chain full which is of dust and soil will make them act like grinding material which will wear your chain down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T16:38:10.123" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20378" CreationDate="2014-02-19T16:54:00.550" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to a bike store and buy purpose-made chain oil.  It will generally come in 2-3 grades from &quot;dry&quot; to &quot;wet&quot;.  &quot;Dry&quot; you'd use in dry, dusty conditions.  &quot;Wet&quot; you'd (obviously) use in conditions where it's frequently wet.  You can read the blurb on each bottle to see what sounds best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least, wipe the chain with a rag before oiling.  Ideally, use some sort of &quot;chain washer&quot; (ask at the bike store) to clean the chain before oiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T16:54:00.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20383" CreationDate="2014-02-19T17:26:37.573" Score="7" ViewCount="5288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a regular ISO disc brake hub and rotor on my front wheel. I'd like to replace it with a Shimano generator hub, but all Shimano hubs use Center Lock rotors instead of ISO. The Center Lock to ISO adapters seem really hokey, so I was thinking I could just get a new Center Lock rotor of the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to tell if the left-to-right alignment of the rotors is the same between the two mounting standards. Will this work without any additional adapters or modifications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7035" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T01:06:47.437" Title="Can I use a Center Lock hub and disc brake rotor in place of an ISO hub?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20378" CreationDate="2014-02-19T17:55:15.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;WD-40 is the wrong stuff since it pretty much evaporates off. Motor oil is also not ideal. 3-in-1 oil is also not ideal since it gums up. Using a purpose bicycle chain lube will improve longevity. The particular choice of lube is a bit of a religious choice, but they are marketed with specific conditions quoted. You can find one at your bike shop on which riding conditions you do, and then use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; to Sheldon Brown is a good read on chain maintenance and when to replace your chain. For cleaning your chain, you can use something like the Park Tool CG-2.2 - its essentially a case, which you put in something like citrus degreaser and close it over your chain. then you spin the chain, and it brushes the chain and washes it in the degreaser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T17:55:15.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20381" CreationDate="2014-02-19T18:00:19.417" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this should work just fine. CenterLock and ISO six bolt wheels should be interchangeable w/o problems as long as they use the same rotor diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T18:00:19.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The water-bottle squirt works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, dogs are easily distracted. Throw something down. Dogs will often stop to investigate. So if you have a snack in your back pockets, throw it out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't whack a dog with a frame pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10352" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-02-20T01:16:29.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18792" CreationDate="2014-02-20T08:18:49.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the 2013' it's awesome.&#xA;The 2014 looks cheaper because of cheaper parts (1/2 tiagra) and wheels. Get the 2013. Anything less than 105 groupset doesn't do the frame justice.  Get the 2013 Upgrade the tyres day 1 and the wheels down the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10357" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T08:18:49.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20388" CreationDate="2014-02-20T09:02:25.787" Score="5" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently traded my Kent BMX bike I got from Wal-Mart: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9jP1a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wal-Mart Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for a Ross road bike &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3FOC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;used road bike&quot;&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend tells me the bike sat in his back yard collecting rust, I see it has rust on the chain, the gears, brake lines and the chrome handlebars. The bike rides ok but the gear shifts need a good push and pull with my thumb to work. I know the bike has had no maintenance in a very long time so I was wondering what should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10358" LastEditorUserId="8759" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T08:44:47.663" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T22:08:24.750" Title="What happens when a bike has not had maintenance for a long time?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20387" CreationDate="2014-02-20T12:16:27.817" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was doing bike rehab for Christmas Anonymous I saw many bikes like this.  It can be good or it can be bad, depending on how much weather it's seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing is to do the obvious -- wash it (we used a power washer), clean &amp;amp; oil the chain, clean and oil the derailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's been in the weather enough then the cables will rusted solid and will need to be replaced.  Otherwise, squirt spray lube (not WD-40, but something that's more of a lube) into the ends of the cables and work them well.  Also lube the brake lever pivots and put a dash of lube on the brake caliper pivots (but take care to keep oil away from the brake pads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearings are the biggie.  From the sound of it yours may be OK, but exposure to the weather for years contaminates the lube and washes some of it away, so it's best to repack all the bearings, starting with the wheel bearings.  (I've seen bearings where all the lube was washed out and there was nothing but bare (and rusted) metal.)  If you've never done this before, start with the front wheel, after studying instructions on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool site&lt;/a&gt;.  And if, when you open up the front hub, the bearings look good and the grease appears reasonably fresh (it will always be dirty) then you can defer work on the other bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to look for would be dry-rot with the tires and tubes. Cracking in the tires is a bad sign. Be ready to replace the rim tape if you have to change tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="7724" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T13:02:17.337" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T13:02:17.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20387" CreationDate="2014-02-20T14:03:15.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually with old bikes like this - the drivetrain (chain, gears, cogs) can be rusted up. You can free these with WD40 to an extent. &#xA;Inside the hubs may be corroded / rusted. If you can dismantle and regrease these it would help. &#xA;The cables might be rusted inside- you can use WD40 again or replace them. &#xA;Check for movement in the headset - check there isn't any knocking there- depending on how much use it has had it might need new bearing or at least a rebuild of the headset bearing.&#xA;Check the tyres aren't perishing as the old ones tend to - you can see this by cracks in the surface which appear when you pinch the material. &#xA;Check the spokes aren't loose.&#xA;Hope that helps.&#xA;You can also check for movement in the bottom bracket which may indicate needing a new one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T14:03:15.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20391" CreationDate="2014-02-20T17:36:55.057" Score="4" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;In looking at replacing my disc brake rotors, and looking online I see there are different sizes available (between 180 and 203 mm).  My question is, what dimension do I measure on my existing rotor?  I'm assuming it's the outside diameter, but just want to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7575" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:45:31.860" Title="How to buy replacement disc brakes" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20390" CreationDate="2014-02-20T18:01:03.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, it's the diameter. Most likey 160mm, but double check. You'll need to get the same size rotors as your old ones unless you get new adapters for your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T18:01:03.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20376" CreationDate="2014-02-20T18:27:03.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will likely be using at least one of the hubs outside of its maximum torque specification when riding in a low gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a random thread about a guy breaking a NuVinci by overtorquing it with a gas motor assist:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/internal-gear-hubs/how-much-power-will-alfine-handle-551706.html#5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.mtbr.com/internal-gear-hubs/how-much-power-will-alfine-handle-551706.html#5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T18:27:03.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20296" CreationDate="2014-02-20T23:46:25.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was answering the Physics.se version of this question but it got closed (probably rightly so), so I'm posting it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lighter pedals will have very little effect on the performance of your bike, other than through the overall weight, and particularly if you're pedalling at a steady cadence instead of accelerating and decelerating repeatedly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making any part of the bike lighter means that accelerating will be easier as you have less inertia, and that you will spend less power at any given constant speed, through a decrease in rolling resistance (i.e. you spend less work flexing your tires). However, you could achieve a similar effect by simply using a lighter frame or handlebars or haircut. To optimize this, if you really are in a trim-all-the-weight-possible mood, you should be comparing this to all comparable weight savings across your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real property of the pedals that is affected is their moment of inertia. This means that heavier pedals have more energy stored in their rotational motion than lighter ones. The thing, though, is that at a steady cadence this energy stays constant and you do not need to worry about it. It only comes into play when you are accelerating, and frankly I would be more worried about your translational energy than the rotational energy in the tires and pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a similar spirit to the above, if you want to minimize this effect, you should compare this with the moment of inertia savings on your pedals, wheels and tires. Since the rims have a larger rotation radius, and rotate at a much faster angular velocity, they hold far more rotational energy than the pedals, and any savings in this area are likely to be easier by using lighter rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked for math, but I'm afraid it's a bit pointless to do it. The reason is that one can in principle calculate how much energy you save in a given situation, but that will give you a number that doesn't mean much. The only way to give it meaning is to compare it with similar weight losses in your frame and in your rims, at the very least, where 'similar' must be understood, in fairness, to mean a similar increase in price. But then you're in a completely different ball game, far broader than what is in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10366" LastEditorUserId="10366" LastEditDate="2017-11-27T16:46:31.090" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T16:46:31.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20394" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-21T08:09:57.590" Score="-2" ViewCount="1115" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading Evans Cycles' blog post the other day about disc brakes on road bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.evanscycles.com/new/disc-brake-equipped-road-bikes-why-are-they-banned-by-the-uci-who-is-riding-them-and-why/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://blog.evanscycles.com/new/disc-brake-equipped-road-bikes-why-are-they-banned-by-the-uci-who-is-riding-them-and-why/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want a new bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got my existing bike (a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.giles.roadnight.name/2011/05/scott-speedster-s30.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scott Speedster S30&lt;/a&gt;) I wanted disc brakes but there didn't seem to be anythign on the market that offered this (other than cboardman but I refuse to buy a bike from Halfords!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 biggest annoyances with my bike are the gears and the brakes needing adjusted and serviced all the time. Although this is a lot better on my Scott than on the bike that I had before it's still a nuisance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blog post also highlighted that disc brakes still work in the wet. This is VERY appealing to me as I have actually hurt my hand before squeezing the brakes so hard in the wet. Not having to replace your wheels each time the rim wears out is another good point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also really wanted electronic gears. I hate hears that aren't set up properly and grind and scrape. In my mind all these issues would go away if I had electronic gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is that the cheapest bike that I can find with hydraulic disc brakes and electronic gears is the The Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert that costs £4,500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am happy to spend that on a bike (and the wife has given me permission) but I will be doing 90% of my riding cycling through London on my commute through all weathers and conditions.&#xA;I could keep my existing bike and use that when the weather's bad but I want those disc brakes for the wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cycle up to 180 miles a week commuting to and from work, other than that I do an occasional Box Hill ride at the weekend and a few sportives a year: King of the downs, London to Brighton, Nightrider, Ride London 100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it stupid commuting through London grime on a £4,500 bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the components will be a lot more expensive. I am a big guy (just over 16 stone) and do a lot of miles so I get through a lot of chains and cassettes. I think the cost of a chain and cassette is about double what I spend at the moment. I might be more inclined to clean it when they are that expensive though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also be covering the bike in lights, bags and panniers. It will be a working bike not a show bike so I will need a pannier rack on it, lights, horn ect. Will these all damage the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is the bulk of the expense on a £4,500 bike? Is it the components or the super light frame? I am not particularly bothered about lightness as I will be hanging a lot of stuff off the bike (and because I am not light). I did consider getting a custom bike built but I have no idea where to start with that or if it would be any cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts and opinions please...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10367" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T07:57:01.307" Title="New commuting road bike. Wishlist: discs &amp; electronic gears" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2014-02-24T02:32:36.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20399" CreationDate="2014-02-21T11:04:01.827" Score="10" ViewCount="10041" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting aside the question should one ever ride on the sidewalk, I would like to jump curbs safely and seamlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume a hardtail mountain bike with high saddle (we are in the city), at a speed of 30 km/h. I have heard of several techniques:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move weight to the rear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull on the handlebars, the tire climbs the curb, without touching it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the weight to the front, in order to unload the rear tire. The rear tire impacts the curb, but is not carrying much weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push on the handlebar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fork compresses, then jumps over the curb. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the rear roll over the curb, like in the previous case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push on the handlebars, crouch as much as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the fork begins to decompress, jump up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push with feet against pedals (pedals vertical) in order to pull the bike up. Pull up on the handlebar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the front tire has passed the curb, push down on it, to gain height in the rear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Which one is best, or is there a better way?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="10493" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T07:54:08.950" LastActivityDate="2018-12-09T16:41:46.197" Title="How to jump curbs?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20397" CreationDate="2014-02-21T11:10:20.020" Score="1" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference in value of a last-year component, and the equivalent one from this year? For example an SLX rear derailleur, an X0 crankset, a Fox Float fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How substantial is technology trickle-down. If a brand new bike from last year costs x, and the frame is unchanged, what could be expected the worth of the components to be, compared to the 2014 model? For example 5% less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T13:13:53.143" Title="How much value do groupsets gain/loose per year?" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20396" CreationDate="2014-02-21T13:13:53.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, it depends on how much has actually changed. Usually the lower quality groups (Shimana Alivio/Deore, SRAM X5/X7) don't change too much because they are very similar to the OEM parts. However, the more expensive groupsets incorporate the trickle down method you mention. Things like clutch derailleurs are becoming available in the middle price ranges versus the top tier. Adding something like that will greatly decrease the previous year's model, while increasing the new one's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time though, it's like a car. As soon as you drive it off the lot, the value drops. Even if it's brand new, as soon as the next year rolls around it's lost value. Marketing and hype are what sell product and new product is always pushed first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T13:13:53.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20394" CreationDate="2014-02-21T14:01:42.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had a budget for £4,500 for a bike that will be primarily for commuting, I would do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either find a disc compatible road frame in titanium (or steel) with eyelets for mudguards and a rack and ample clearance for 28C tires, OR have one made to my specifications.  Carbon is lovely and light, but when/if you have a crash or it gets struck by a vehicle you're going to need to be sure it doesn't have hairline cracks. Titanium and steel can be fairly easily repaired and will bend quite a bit before it snaps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forget electronic gears and get internal hub gears from Rohloff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming the shifter will work well with the hub, SRAM red hydraulic brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would probably opt for Hope or Chris King hubs laced to some carbon clincher rims, and some 25 or 28C tired with a good balance between weight and toughness; something like a Continental 4season or Gatorskin if you want a little more protection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finishing kit would strike a balance between comfort and low weight, the narrowest drop bars that are comfortable, full mudguards and a rack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, you'll get something that is probably more comfortable, less prone to problems caused by the grime of London, less obvious a target for thieves and much less compromise as you can do exactly what you want.  It'll also probably cost you less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7040" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T14:01:42.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20395" CreationDate="2014-02-21T14:11:14.853" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last one. As already mentioned, you're describing a bunny hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing the rear to hit the curb - even if there is relatively little weight over it - will increase the risk of pinch punctures, potential rim damage, and it will slow you down considerably more than a clean bunny hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hops are weird. Once you can do them you will never understand why you couldn't. They're much easier if you use clipless pedals, but learning to do it on flat pedals will be hugely beneficial to your technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7040" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T14:11:14.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20394" CreationDate="2014-02-21T15:21:57.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can understand wanting disc brakes for commuting but the only justification I can see is that they work better in the wet. I can't see any justification for a high end bike, especially as you're going to put panniers and mud guards on; that's going to negate any performance increase the more expensive bike has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All-weather commuting destroys bikes. Sounds like you've already figured this out. An expensive bike will still suffer, but will cost a great deal more in maintenance. With the amount of commuting you do you need a work horse, not a performance bike. It sounds like you've wrecked the groupset on your current bike. If you do that on Di2 it will cost you a grand to replace it. Are you willing to spend £1000 a year to keep a commuting bike on the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also really wanted electronic gears. I hate hears that aren't set up properly and grind and scrape. In my mind all these issues would go away if I had electronic gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the cost of a chain and cassette is about double what I spend at the moment. I might be more inclined to clean it when they are that expensive though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also sounds like you need to learn a bit about maintenance and put the effort in. The grind and scrape is probably because your chain is filthy. With that mileage you need to clean and oil the chain every week (I do mine on Friday evening so I can enjoy it at its best on the weekend rides). A chain/cassette should last you 10,000 miles if it is looked after. Buy a Park Tools chain cleaner from wiggle, its less than £20 and means you can clean your chain in 5 mins. Every couple of months you should also give your front and rear mechs a thorough clean and lube, this includes taking the jockey wheels off. Learn to set them up so that you can shift cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly it sounds like in your mind you've already made the decision to buy a high end bike and are just trying to justify it to yourself. Fair enough, I'd love a bike like that, but you really don't need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: I commute about 100 miles/week on an alu framed Bianchi with Veloce groupset. A new chain and cassette costs about £50 and will last me two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6407" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T15:21:57.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19021" CreationDate="2014-02-21T15:48:36.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;DriKase and Drikase XL (for large phones or phones with cases) are good waterproof phone cases which mount to your stem and keep your phone dry while being able to operate it through the liner. It doesn't set it out front of your bars though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ORXV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DriKase&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.alt-gear.com/c/bikase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://shop.alt-gear.com/c/bikase&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T15:48:36.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18209" CreationDate="2014-02-21T16:07:45.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try Dawn Dish soap its a little bit of scrubbing but it seems to work the best, its chem resistant so everything I have tried only makes it more sticky but dish soap hot water and work gets rid of it the best.  Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10369" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T16:07:45.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19094" CreationDate="2014-02-21T17:08:32.650" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real problem with carbon is that it only has two modes -- not broken and broken.  When stressed beyond its strength limits the carbon fibers break and the frame is seriously weakened.  Plus, once this has happened, the &quot;threshold&quot; for further damage drops lower and lower.  And, except for cracks that MAY OR MAY NOT be reasonably visible, there's no obvious warning sign of impending failure -- nothing is &quot;bent&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steel, on the other hand, will (unless it's super-hard stuff) &quot;yield&quot; (&quot;plastic&quot; deformation) before it breaks, and &quot;yielding&quot; (within limits) only slightly reduces the strength of the metal.  Thus the frame will visibly bend before it breaks (unless, of course, it's run over by a truck or some such), and catastrophic failure is very rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Aluminum is somewhat in-between the other two.  It unfortunately has a tendency to &quot;work harden&quot;, and thus can, over a long term (years of rough roads), develop cracks that lead to catastrophic failure without obvious bending before-hand.  But it reacts more like steel in the face of short-term impact-type forces.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T17:08:32.650" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20413" CreationDate="2014-02-21T19:10:44.110" Score="5" ViewCount="2835" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard many people like to use plastic newspaper bags or grocery bags as a vapor barrier when cold weather cycling. I'm already wearing winter cycling boots which prevent outside water infiltration, but I've been considering this for really cold days or longer rides below freezing since my insoles eventually get soaked with sweat eventually and become very good at transferring the cold from the bottoms of my shoe to my feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the most effective way to use vapor barriers inside shoes to keep warm? Should I wear the vapor barrier over my socks, under my socks, or between two layers? What is the theory behind it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T20:04:00.423" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T01:07:18.567" Title="How to use a vapor barrier with cycling shoes for cold weather riding?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-21T20:19:18.157" Score="1" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mETtr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unidentifiedtandem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bike that I rescued from an abandoned junk yard in central California. It was terribly rusted, and I think I am crazy for spending the amount of time and money I did to restore it. I often wish that I would have just walked right on by it! It had remnants of rubbery decals on it, but they were far unreadable. The gear changer says &quot;FALCON&quot; on it. Unfortunately that is the only thing with a name on the bike. Does anybody know what this bike is? Or perhaps how old it may be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10370" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T21:01:24.883" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T22:03:06.290" Title="Can anyone identify this Tandem bike I restored from a junk yard?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-21T21:25:32.177" Score="3" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cycling maintenance experience goes as far as changing tyres, but winter has been cruel and I need to replace some components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-105-5700-10-speed-road-cassette/rp-prod50454?utm_source=Google&amp;amp;utm_medium=Shopping&amp;amp;utm_name=UnitedKingdom&amp;amp;gclid=CIbV65qQ3rwCFeXKtAodiTMA8w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano 105 CS-5700&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front chainring : Shimano Ultegra SG-X 53B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain : Not sure, all I can see is &quot;shimano&quot;,&quot;VIA&quot;, &quot;HG&quot;,&quot;JG&quot; on the&#xA;sides. It's at 0.5% stretch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just get any 10 speed chain, or do I have to get a 105 or ultegra chain? Does it matter if I have a mixture of 105/ultegra components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T22:13:45.670" Title="Are Shimano components compatible with each other? Do I have to get a specific chain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20407" CreationDate="2014-02-21T21:37:33.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you use a ten speed chain it shouldn't matter which group you take it from. Normally the higher priced ones are bit lighter but the additional price often does by far not match the lower weight. Also the higher priced ones might last not that long due to the lighter material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore if it's for a bike where you know that it will see some dirt and wear, better get some mid-priced stuff. It might last longer and if doesn't it won't drill as big a hole into your budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T21:37:33.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20387" CreationDate="2014-02-21T22:08:24.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of very fine wire wool with spray oil on the rusty handlebars should clean them up a bit. Regarding the gear cables - new inners and housings are very cheap, so you'd be better replacing them rather than trying to make old corroded ones work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T22:08:24.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20407" CreationDate="2014-02-21T22:13:45.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also worth noting that you don't have to stick with Shimano parts - I use SRAM chains on my MTB and road bikes (9 and 10 speeds respectively). SRAM 9 speed chains come with a reusable powerlink connector that's much handier than the Shimano pin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T22:13:45.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20406" CreationDate="2014-02-21T22:47:19.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a very similar frame on a tandem from Craigslist several years ago. That was a Schwinn.&#xA;The frame is terribly flexible, you can't put an adult on the rear seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-02-22T22:03:06.290" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T22:03:06.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20378" CreationDate="2014-02-21T23:22:56.647" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question leads to one of the great religious debates of the bicycle culture. Ask ten mechanics which chain lube is best, you'll get ten different answers. The honest answer is &quot;it depends on your maintenance habits and the weather and your preferences, so you should try some different things until you develop an opinion of your own.&quot; That's tough to do without understanding what to look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main species of chain lubricants you will see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oils of various viscosities. Often sold as 'wet weather' lube. Finish Line wet is an example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teflon in an evaporating solvent. Often sold as 'dry weather' lube. Finish Line dry is an example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wax in an evaporating solvent. White Lightning Clean Ride is an example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oil is a fine lubricant. It sticks on your chain fairly tenaciously in bad weather, so requires less frequent application. On the other hand, road dirt can accumulate quickly and turn into a nasty black paste, especially if overapplied. Wipe extra lube off the exterior of your chain after application!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Teflon and Wax style lubricants have a lubricating substance in a solvent. The solvent lets the stuff flow, distributing the lubrication to the inner crevices of your chain, and then evaporates, leaving the lubrication where it needs to be. Then, like with oil, you wipe off the exterior of the chain. These chain lubes tend to leave your chain less messy, but can wash out more easily in rainy-day riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take those considerations into account and pick whichever seems most suited to your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other answers have mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;WD-40 does not make a great chain lube, what lubrication it leaves after evaporating is too thin.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do clean your chain, externally with a rag at the very least, before re-lubing. If you do a thorough clean with solvent or degreaser &amp;amp; water, make sure your chain is completely dry before reapplying. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T23:22:56.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20404" CreationDate="2014-02-21T23:31:26.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode a couple winters as a bike messenger in the northeastern US, and this is a classic messenger trick for the worst cold wet days. While your feet may still become somewhat wet, at least they will be warm and wet. I liked wearing a thin sock on the inside, the plastic bag, another pair of socks, then shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not really a dry-day technique. Then, as @hillsons said, you will just have wet feet for no reason. When it's dry and really cold, put flat pedals on your bike and wear normal civilian winter footwear. Hiking boots, for example. But when it's 35 degrees and raining and you are silly enough to be on your bike, the plastic bags trick is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One place to search advice on vapor barriers is in the camping/backpacking world, there's been plenty of experimentation with them since at least the 60s in that community. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3444" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T23:31:26.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20390" CreationDate="2014-02-22T07:51:52.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that the thickness of the rotors may differ slightly, so you may have to adjust the brake pads a bit. Also note the difference between bolted and center-lock rotors. Most likely you have a 160 mm 6-bolt rotor though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10374" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T07:51:52.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20394" CreationDate="2014-02-22T07:57:01.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A commuter should be cheap, and work well. They take a lot of abuse due to weather, risk getting stolen, often go through traffic with risk of hits, etc. Disc brakes are fine, but electronic shifting is a dumb thing to have on a commuter. Its way too expensive to have right now, and a properly setup mechanical system will need tuning up maybe once a year (which an electric system will probably need as well). Lightness and aerodynamics don't really matter for a commuter, and if you're 16 stone (around 225 pounds), buying a light bike and commuting on it is just asking for trouble due to light and fragile wheels among other things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should get something with rack mounts, moderately aggressive riding position, like one of the commuter-cyclocross-y bikes, preferably a bit discrete as well (Trek Crossrip and Specialized Tricross or AWOL are an example of what I'm thinking of, or the old Kona Dew Drop). A bit more flashy is the Kona Jake the Snake and some others. There are some on the UK type market which we recently got in the US which look nice, like the Charge Plug line as well. If you look at US market pricing, I don't think anything above around the 1200 dollar mark should be used as a commuter (in fact, I lean towards running something old under the 200 dollar used mark). Get it set up properly and ride away. For an 18 mile trip each way, a more relaxed drop bar commuter like the Crossrip would probably be a good idea (if you want drop bars). Some touring bikes are also decent (Trek 520 which has V brakes, etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also sounds like your bike is setup rather incompetently - your levers shouldn't be bottoming out under normal braking, and your gears should be smooth unless you have a misadjustment or something like a bent derailleur or something (like you had a crash). If this is consistently happening, take it to a bike shop. If they havent fixed it , take it to another bike shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T07:57:01.307" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-22T19:48:28.933" Score="1" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble with my rear mech and/or shifters. Under heavy load (say, when climbing) the rear mech is slipping. The two photos below show my shifters before and after a climb. I've not touched the gears during the climb, the shifter slips and I just change gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would cause this? I didn't think putting power through the drive train would push/pull the mech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWT7g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;before&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rKp5M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;after&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T20:21:58.810" Title="How can I stop my shifters slipping when climbing?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20416" CreationDate="2014-02-22T20:21:58.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know a great deal about the old shifter types, but two thoughts come to mind - &#xA;1. Very obvious, but have you tried tightening them to increase the friction?&#xA;2. Might there be grease in the friction surfaces?  You could try opening them and cleaning them with deagreaser/brake cleaner to see if you can increase the friction in them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T20:21:58.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19110" CreationDate="2014-02-23T17:42:04.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this article to be particularly informative. I'll be using this method for my own bare aluminum frame. &#xA;It requires purchasing a couple small items, but uses proven methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackmtncycles.com/2014/02/care-for-your-bare-aluminum-frame.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.blackmtncycles.com/2014/02/care-for-your-bare-aluminum-frame.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10384" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T17:42:04.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19102" CreationDate="2014-02-23T20:52:32.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both the Qeridoo &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.qeridoo.com/index.php/de/produkte/fahrradanhaenger/sportrex1-2014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Sportrex 1&quot;&gt;Sportrex 1&lt;/a&gt; and the Chariot 1 from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/products/active-with-kids/multifunctional-child-carriers/single-child-carriers/thule-chariot-cougar-1-avocado-_-10100534&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Cougar 1&quot;&gt;Thule&lt;/a&gt; have suspension, are rainproof, have an aerodynamic profile, have axle attachments, and have two wheels (with an optional third for running, etc)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Qeridoo is even a German brand, so it shouldn't be hard to get in Germany...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't know if you could fulfil the rest of the requirements (8-10 years old kid, possibility of carrying the bicycle at the same time, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10383" LastEditorUserId="10383" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T13:24:19.137" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T13:24:19.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20404" CreationDate="2014-02-24T08:04:37.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used this technique in emergencies while hiking, but never thought of deliberately using it day-to-day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the weather unexpectedly turns foul (and this is before I had the money to buy quality waterproof hiking shoes), my feet would soak. So I would takeout a thick plastic bag from the backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put dry socks on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the plastic bag over them, but leave a lot of space in front of the fingers. Otherwise when putting on the shoe, and when walking, the toes tear the plastic bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the wet sock over. This will prevent the plastic bag of sliding against the shoe and tearing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the shoe on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this works for several hours (with increasing levels of discomfort) and keeps the feet dry-ish in an emergency. However, the feel is slippery (on every step, the socks slip a bit). Really not my idea of &quot;fun&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T08:04:37.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20426" CreationDate="2014-02-24T10:06:33.823" Score="3" ViewCount="1108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a set of wheels I would like to put on my bike and have a couple of questions about how easy it is to DIY the job &amp;amp; compatibility. I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2010&amp;amp;brand=Specialized&amp;amp;model=Allez%20Sport%20Triple&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2010 Allez Sport Triple&lt;/a&gt; and want to swap the stock wheels for some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fulcrum-racing-1-clincher-wheelset-2014/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fulcrum 1 Clinchers&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Principally my question regards the rear cassette - on the bike it is a stock Shimano 9 sp (from the Sora range I think). Will I need to change to a 10/11 speed for the new wheels? Will this require changing any other components or can it be just the cassette? **&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** &lt;em&gt;Note: This is something I'm considering anyway (probably Shimano 105/Ultegra [one can dream of top-level parts but there is a constraining factor called money in the real world], including a complete overhaul of all components inc. levers, cranks, dérailleurs etc.) because the Sora equipment leaves quite something to be desired and it is now quite worn.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also grateful for any tips about knowledge or tools necessary for the job and other useful tips to be aware of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T17:59:44.420" Title="What is needed to change a set of wheels? + advice RE the cassette size" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19014" CreationDate="2014-02-24T10:13:40.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something like this?:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufNcO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano Alivio Shifters&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051829&amp;amp;ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&amp;amp;bmUID=iLiFAlC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10383" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T10:13:40.760" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20425" CreationDate="2014-02-24T13:54:13.030" Score="2" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a near new Dawes Galaxy that had been in storage for 8 years. I'm super excited to get on a tour. I have both Lands End to John O'Groats and London to Paris locked in:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires are marked &lt;code&gt;Schwalbe Marathon 32 - 622 (28 x 15/8 x 1 1/4 - 700 x 32c) hs308&lt;/code&gt;. Tube markings have always confused me, and I'm sure it gets asked here all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tube should I be looking at here in the UK as a spare?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Raleigh-Inner-Tube-700x28-32C/dp/B004TGL21M/ref=sr_1_8?s=sports&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1393250378&amp;amp;sr=1-8&amp;amp;keywords=700x28-32c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; be OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10390" LastEditorUserId="10390" LastEditDate="2014-02-24T14:01:01.390" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T15:02:42.687" Title="Dawes Super Galaxy - Tubes" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20424" CreationDate="2014-02-24T15:02:42.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the number most usually listed is 700x32, so anything with that in the range will be the right size. You can even get away with slightly bigger or smaller tubes in a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones you linked to should be fine, or try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/schwalbe-road-inner-tube/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these from Schwalbe&lt;/a&gt;. Some people recommend Schwalbe for reliable tubes as well as tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note valves: It might matter whether you currently have &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/presta-schrader.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schrader (like a car tyre) or Presta&lt;/a&gt; valves. If you have presta, the Schrader tube valves might not fit through the hole in the rim. Probably simplest to get the same kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T15:02:42.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20422" CreationDate="2014-02-24T15:43:29.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those wheels come either with a Campagonolo compatible freehub; or a Shimano/SRAM compatible freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy the one for Shimano/SRAM (as of this writing, out of stock in Wiggle), you'll be able to use your existing cassette. To quote @PeteH:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The 9-speed Shimano cassette that you already have, the total height&#xA;  of it is the same as the total heights of their their 10- and 11-speed&#xA;  cassettes. So any of them will fit onto a wheel, provided as @yivi&#xA;  says you have the correct freehub. Therefore you're not obliged to&#xA;  change from 9-speed.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you'd need to switch to a Campagnolo 10/11 cassette, and presumably change a few more things in your drivetrain for compatibility sake. You can mix and match (compatible) SRAM and Shimano components, but I think that for the most part Campagnolo is not compatible with them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to have the proper tools to do it though. A cassette lockring tool and a chainwhip &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iQn6X.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; height=&quot;300&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rmlsi.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; height=&quot;300&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, it's as easy as this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F7YuX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cassette removal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10383" LastEditorUserId="5434" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T17:59:44.420" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T17:59:44.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20429" CreationDate="2014-02-24T17:57:53.443" Score="3" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to purchase a new bike in the intermediate level and I'd like the option to upgrade all if not most of the parts over time.  That said, I've read some concerning articles&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rodbikes.com/articles/proprietary-parts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; [sic]&lt;/a&gt; and I want to make sure I don't get locked into a narrow selection of proprietary only upgrade options.  In my research I've gathered that I should avoid Specialized and Trek as these manufactures tend to employ a lot of proprietary parts, but I've not yet come across recommendations for manufactures that are easy to upgrade down the line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions is this: Which manufacturers (and if applicable models) are easy to upgrade? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I just don't want to find myself in a situation where I spend good money on a &lt;strong&gt;good frame&lt;/strong&gt; + &lt;strong&gt;average kit&lt;/strong&gt; and later find that I can't build on the frame I invested in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10391" LastEditorUserId="10391" LastEditDate="2014-02-24T22:49:36.607" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T02:55:57.070" Title="MTB Manufactures and Upgrade-ability" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18168" CreationDate="2014-02-24T19:11:23.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a two fold approach! Firstly ride your bike in a fat burning zone. Your going to need to have a relatively low body fat percentage if you want to have decent muscle definition. So I'd take the long route into work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second phase is once you arrive at work jump off your bike and do some sit-ups, once your strong enough you could use your bike as additional weight whilst performing some crunches.. Alternatively a structured weight routine in the gym would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your not going develop a killer six pack by just riding a bike though I'm afraid!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T19:11:23.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20427" CreationDate="2014-02-24T19:30:21.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The linked article is a bit more of a rant than anything scientific.  High end $5000 bikes, especially road bikes, are not built to last - they are built light to go fast and trade durability to do so. A frame does not make a bike - in fact on a $5000 bike, a new frame will cost maybe $1000 - hurts and expensive, yes, far from a write off. Buyers of $5000 bikes understand this. Mid-range bikes are less likely to suffer the same problems as people tend to keep them longer and expect them to last. These bikes are mass produced in high volumes - so plenty of spare parts are manufactured, and held in stock. One way to save money as a manufacturer is not hold spare parts, so cheap bikes tend to have parts problems as well but these bikes are rarely worth the labour cost for a repair anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parts compatibility and vendor lock-in are not a problem in the cycling world, it was an effective monopoly for so long, and is still a duopoly, all parts are relatively interchangeable. The main mounting points etc on frames are all standardized (there is often more than one standard, so getting the right parts is important).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you search other posts asking similar questions you will see my personal opinion is that upgrading a bike over time is a very expensive proposition and never gives a good bike for the outlay. Parts are expensive to the extent that it is no uncommon to buy a new donor bike to upgrade a frame, rather than buy individual parts - purely because it is much cheaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best option is buy the bike you can afford today, and live with it till you can buy a better one. Buy a better quality used bike, of even better, last years model on 50% discount (The main difference is usually colour) rather than pay sticker price for this years model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To alleviate your fears about parts availability, stick to big brands, stay away from chain stores, and consider a bike is a collection of distinct, easily replaced parts - unlike say a car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-02-24T20:47:49.390" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T20:47:49.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20427" CreationDate="2014-02-24T19:33:24.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what you mean by Specialized and Trek are proprietary. Things you can upgrade are seatpost, saddle, wheels, derailleurs, front fork, stem, handlebars, headset, crankset, bottom bracket, cassette, shifters and none of these parts are particularly restrictive. Lets go through this in list form:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle: Just bolt a new one on (*)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat Post: Find one in the same diameter, shove it in. (* you may want a dropper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels: Match the wheel size and brake type, put it in and put tires that have adequate clearance. There are several &quot;standards&quot; like 650b, 29&quot;, 26&quot;. (* some people go lighter or tougher or whatever after buying the bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Derailleurs and Shifters: Index shifters have to be matched to the number of speeds. Just stick within Shimano's mountain group or SRAM's mountain group for the derailleurs and shifters and you'll be fine. (* you're going to break a derailleur and shifter eventually)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankset - Just match the spline/tapered-ness to your bottom bracket and dont put too many teeth/number of chainrings that your font derailleur can't handle it. (* but you probably will just be replacing chainrings as they wear)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette  - Just buy a new one.  (*)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Bracket - BB30 isn't exactly a problem - you can get BB30 stuff from SRAM, Phil Wood, etc. and there are &quot;Universal Bottom Brackets&quot; which Velo Orange makes. Chances are, if it caught on enough at some point, Phil Wood will be making something for you for longer than you're alive. Sure, they introduce new ones periodically, but they don't exactly disappear. Plus, you're probably only going to replace this as they wear out. There are some newer ones, so just see if several manufacturers &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset - This isn't exactly something that needs replacing regularly, but heres an &lt;a href=&quot;http://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/Int20HeadsetsExplained.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;overview&lt;/a&gt; on what to look for from Chris King. This is something that will depend on your frame. You could go for a &quot;standard&quot; like ZeroStack, but theres no guarantee 10 years from now your fork will work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork: You're at the mercy of Fox/RockShox/etc... (* maybe - you may find it cost effective just to get a new frame and fork at this point)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear Suspension: This is usually something a bit harder to match up on the after market. Consider it effectively a part of the frame. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stem/Handlebars/Grips: Just match the diameter, and go wild. (*)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes and brake levers: Well, you can just replace the system. Presumably you're running discs, so you may need new hubs and calipers if someone eventually switches the type of mount, though I don't see the current rotors and pads disappearing off the market. But theres nothing you can do about that, other than get a major brand's brake system. (*)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedals: Just bolt your new ones on... (*)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably need to stick to all Shimano / all SRAM derailleurs + shifter system though for sanity's sake though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the topic of frame repair: Steel can be welded up by pretty much anyone. Aluminium and Carbon are harder to deal with. As Moz points out in a comment, you're often better off buying a new frame usually, anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have starred things that I think are reasonable to upgrade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, if you use a smaller manufacturer/builder, you'll have more common parts than a major player like Specialized/Trek/Giant. But even small manufacturers are using a lot of the things that the article is complaining about. Its just something you have to live with. In all likelihood, you wont make significant upgrades on a bike anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T02:55:57.070" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T02:55:57.070" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20433" CreationDate="2014-02-24T21:01:41.657" Score="4" ViewCount="12251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently own a 2013 steel cyclocross bike that I use for daily commuting (approximately 1 hour per day). The model I have is equipped with a Shimano Sora groupset. I am considering moving to a steel road bike, and am looking at a used 2011 model with a Shimano Ultegra groupset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me whether there will be a noticeable difference moving from a Sora to an Ultegra groupset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5787" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T18:20:16.337" Title="Shimano Ultegra vs Shimano Sora" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20404" CreationDate="2014-02-24T21:11:56.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rehash of a previously posted answer, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/2017/683&quot; title=&quot;fdsa&quot;&gt;I wear socks with SPD sandals in the wintertime.&lt;/a&gt; I can pile up as many layers of wool socks as I need for the day's temperature conditions, and just adjust the straps on the sandals to make room for the extra bulk. The plastic grocery bag I put between the outermost and next inner layer of sock. I've done this, had my feet soaking wet yet still toasty warm in temperatures as low as -20F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They key though is that you need to select your footwear to target about 20-30 degrees warmer than the ambient air, so that you are not sweating when biking. If you are standing around doing nothing, your feet should be cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T21:11:56.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20431" CreationDate="2014-02-24T21:31:45.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cable routing is different. Ultegra is designed to allow both cables to route along the handlebar (instead of that cable sticking out the side of the brake lever like on Sora), to give you a cleaner look and less chance of the cable getting in your way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultegra is higher quality than Sora. It should shift a bit better, or at least go more miles before it needs adjusting to shift perfectly again. It should last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultegra is basically the same as Shimano's absolute top of the line (Dura Ace), except a bit heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're shopping around and looking at any other bikes, you may also want to consider Shimano 105. 105 is basically the previous generation of Ultegra without any carbon fiber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T18:20:16.337" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T18:20:16.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-24T22:15:19.057" Score="2" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the right place to ask...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought new bike about 10 months ago. The past few weeks I've had no end of trouble with the rear wheel (Mavic Aksium) in regards to spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 4-5 spokes on the non-drive side consistently come loose. I tighten them, then after riding for about 15 meters I hear the &quot;twang&quot; as they work themselves loose. One of them snapped right off at the nipple, looks a bit brittle where the break was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this normal for a wheel to wear out so fast? I've done about&#xA;2500km on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm missing 1 spoke, and loose on about 4 now. Is the wheel ready for the bin, or is it worth fixing? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this something that is normally covered in bike manufacturer&#xA;warranties, or is it a case of &quot;sorry mate, its just general wear&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T15:04:17.430" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T15:04:17.430" Title="Wheel bust after 10 months, is this normal / usually covered by warranty?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20422" CreationDate="2014-02-24T22:31:22.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 9-speed Shimano cassette that you already have, the total height of it is the same as the total heights of their their 10- and 11-speed cassettes. So any of them will fit onto a wheel, provided as @yivi says you have the correct freehub. Therefore you're not obliged to change from 9-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to fit more gears onto a cassette, each cog is made thinner. In turn, this necessitates a narrower chain. This explains why you have different chains for 9-, 10- and 11-speed cassettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you mention that you might &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to change the number of gears. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13294/upgrade-shimano-from-9-to-10-speed&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; might be useful - it is one I asked a while back. The long and short of it is that, if you want to do things properly, it is quite a bit of work. All because the parts are designed around the chain widths. You're potentially talking not just cassette, but derailleurs, front rings and of course shifters themselves. There are various corners you can cut, but you'll be left with something workable not optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to upgrade parts without going to more gears, you might want to consider Shimano's 6500 series. Although this is an old series, it still has good availability. 6500 was a 9-speed system so you could swap your Sora bits for Ultegra bits - pretty much one by one - and improve things that way. But on the other hand you might decide that, for the cost involved, it isn't worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T12:34:39.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20434" CreationDate="2014-02-24T22:31:40.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) It's hard to say what's normal - what sort of riding have you been doing on it, as in, have you been going over a lot of curbs and potholes? The more you bounce on it, the more strain it'll have.  Have you hit one particular pothole hard recently?  How heavy are you? The heavier you are, the more likely you are to damage the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You should take it to your LBS, they'll be able to tell you the answer to this, but most likely they'll be able to repair it and re-true the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Depends on who you got it from.. and what warrantee you have I guess.  Probably going to be a general wear though I'd suspect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T22:31:40.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20434" CreationDate="2014-02-24T22:39:22.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheels eventually do simply wear out, but we're usually talking tens of thousands of kilometers or at least several years for the average user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's been less than a year, you shouldn't expect to have to dish out any money for this repair. I believe those wheels typically have a two year warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bought the wheels at a shop, the shop should handle the warranty repair or replacement for you ( or else it's about time to find a different shop ). Sometimes they're a little grumpy about it since there's a small possibility you didn't take good care of the wheel, but you shouldn't have too much trouble if you're polite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: Wheels should not wear out this fast, these should be replaced or repaired under warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T22:39:22.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20440" CreationDate="2014-02-24T23:02:41.407" Score="3" ViewCount="4091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at purchasing a used Surly Pacer. However, the owner is unsure of the year (he also bought it used). Are there any visual cues that I can use to identify the year of the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5787" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2019-12-01T18:25:00.853" LastActivityDate="2019-12-01T18:25:00.853" Title="How do I identify the manufacturing year of a Surly frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-06-13T12:52:38.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20558" CreationDate="2014-02-24T23:39:48.003" Score="3" ViewCount="1962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to identify some very old rim brakes.  I bought this bike used, and have now ridden it for enough miles that I strongly feel the need to replace at least the brake pads.  No evidence that there is a problem, just a gut feeling that 5000 miles is plenty for one set of pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'm attaching pictures.  I once did some research and think I discovered &quot;Magura Move!&quot; in some website archives from well before 2000.  But, the Magura forums look pretty dead, and I would guess I'll get more eyes on the problem here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace either the pads, or the entire system with a new one.  I'm also considering the possibility of completely retiring the bike these are attached to.  What I need to know is how likely I am to find new pads for brakes that may be twenty years old, and if not, what measurements will help me ensure that I'm getting a new set appropriate for my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGkos.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;handlebar&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NKoZ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brake mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3913" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T13:23:51.270" Title="Trying to identify some very old Magura rim brakes" Tags="&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20438" CreationDate="2014-02-24T23:40:24.537" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/info_hole&quot;&gt;Surly themselves&lt;/a&gt;: &#xA;&quot;What year was my frame built?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know that serial number on the underside of your bottom bracket? No?! Ok, so flip your bike over and take a look closely at the bottom bracket shell (the cylinder at the bottom of the frame around which your crank rotates). There will be a code stamped into the shell starting with the letter &quot;M&quot;. Sometimes this stamp has a bunch of paint that has collected in it but look closely, it is there, I promise. The following number after the M signifies the last digit(s) of the production year of your frame. So, for instance, M2598144 was made in 2002, M8128666 was made in 2008 and M10034269 was made in 2010. Now write down the serial number and keep it somewhere you can find it in case your bike gets stolen. This might be the only identifiable mark on your frame if it comes back to you!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T23:40:24.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="143" CreationDate="2014-02-25T03:07:52.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, you should lock it out when you want to put more power to the wheel. i.e. a flat road, moderately smooth trail. Being robbed of energy isn't as bad on a hard tail, but on a full sussy it is noticeable in various situations. I always lock out when climbing, especially if you stand while climbing. For descending I always have the fork unlocked. Tire pressure will also play a role. If you can run lower psi then you may not need the fork as often. Personally, When I'm trail riding, I always have the fork unlocked. If I come to steep climb, I lock it. If I happen to hit a fast flat section, I will lock it out. If I'm on the road I lock it out. Of course it all depends on personal preference. Try different things until you find what feels right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9135" LastEditorDisplayName="user9135" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T14:53:53.357" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T14:53:53.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20431" CreationDate="2014-02-25T09:52:30.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go for Shimano 105 instead of Ultegra. The levers are basically the same (alu instead of carbon) at a lesser expense with the same cable routing along the bar as with Ultegra. I run a cross-bike with 105 and a road-bike with Ultegra. Both work without a noticeable difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T09:52:30.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20445" CreationDate="2014-02-25T11:32:13.957" Score="1" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to work out if my current brakes are long enough to work with 700C wheels (ie 622mm rim), rather than 630 (27&quot;).  The question I have is, will the wheel sit at the same point in the dropout? Do I need to factor in a different diameter quick release bolt? Or do they have the same diamater? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the frame spread make a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastEditorUserId="9031" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T14:24:16.427" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T14:24:16.427" Title="Caliper drop for bike conversion" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20444" CreationDate="2014-02-25T12:12:29.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will use 27&quot; to describe ISO 630 in the remainder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be able to move your brake pads down by about 4mm. If you can do this, you should be OK. &lt;a href=&quot;http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2011/10/27-wheels-and-measuring-brake-reach.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velo-Orange&lt;/a&gt; has a nice page describing the process (if you don't have the sufficient brake adjustment, put in a 700c wheel which has appropriate hub spacing (probably 126 mm - Velo Orange (among others) are also willing to sell you a prebuilt wheel for this purpose), and measure from the center of the caliper bolt hole to the center of the rim, and that is the reach required for a replacement caliper (then, you can buy a cheap replacement caliper) ). If you're spreading the frame to take a 130 mm hub (you shouldn't need to do &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#necessary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cold setting&lt;/a&gt; for this with a cup-and-cone hub), the angle change is tiny (you can work out the trigonometry for it), so you will need a little less range of adjustment. The QR is irrelevant. The wheel can sit slightly further back in the drop out (maybe about 2-4 mm) to match the angle exactly of the brakes hitting the wheel, but I don't think this is necessary (once again, you can measure the angle from the dropout center line and the brakes with the vertex being center of the axle, and use a little math or adjustment to match it for the brakes with the new wheel, but it should be tiny). In other words, you'll figure it out when you put in the new wheel and adjust the brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, people using Canti's often have to swap to something else, like PlanetX's Frog Bollox for the additional adjustment range. Velo-Orange does point out that most original brakes for 27&quot; bicycles are not very good even compared to cheap brakes today, so you may want to get new brakes anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that you can still buy 27&quot; wheels (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels/630.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) and tires from brands like continental or whatever, though there is certainly more expense and less selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T13:32:44.033" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T13:32:44.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20434" CreationDate="2014-02-25T14:48:17.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've probably permanently deformed the rim by riding it with loose and broken spokes for so long. When you get a wheel, you should check the wheel and make sure the spoke tension is set evenly and the wheel is true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you buy the wheels at a bike shop?  If so, they should have taken the wheels out of the box (if not custom built) and checked the spoke tension and trued the wheel before they gave it to you.  If you got them off the internet, then that's up to you to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, You can replace a single broken spoke. If you notice the wheel go out of true, break spokes, or has loose spokes, you need to STOP riding on the wheel and have it trued before riding on it again, otherwise it will degrade rapidly. Spokes generally break when the spoke tension is not evenly distributed or by a sharp impact. When one spoke breaks, it affects the tension of the spokes near it and on the opposite side of the wheel as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had addressed the issue when you first noticed the broken spokes, your wheel would have probably been fine and just required some wheel truing.  However, not dealing with the issue properly probably killed the rim.   I'd probably recommend taking it to a shop and have them assess whether the wheel is worth trying to fix at this point.  It may not be able to be trued again, even after replacing the spoke if the rim is warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T14:56:05.790" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T14:56:05.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20450" CreationDate="2014-02-25T15:39:49.043" Score="4" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a new bike for touring while traveling, so I want a break-apart frame with S&amp;amp;S couplers, like the Salsa Vaya Travel, or another steel touring frame retro fit with couplers.  I want a bike I can confidently take down the long roads knowing that if anything does go wrong, I'll be able to fix it on the road and get rolling again.  I also want a bike that I'll be able to ride for a lot of years, without investing so much in it that taking it out on the road will seem like an unreasonable financial risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is: should I spend the extra money and time on a custom built frame, or will my results be just as good with a well fit stock frame and components?  What advantages can a custom fit provide that are unavailable in stock frames?  Over many consecutive long days in the saddle, do the benefits of a custom fit pay off any more or less?  Are there any risks or complications involved with building and maintaining custom frames that I should be concerned about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4784" LastActivityDate="2021-02-15T05:46:28.780" Title="What are the advantages of a custom frame for a touring bike?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;&lt;travelling&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20404" CreationDate="2014-02-25T16:13:41.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not actually that cold, so a decent pair of old-fashioned non-breathable leather boots or hiking shoes with 2 pairs of socks should be enough, 3 pairs at the very lowest temperatures you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hiking trainers + 1 pair of warm socks is fine down to -6C (21F) for me in the dry, &lt;em&gt;so long as I keep the wind off my ankles&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go for a vapour barrier, you need enough packing (in the form of socks) in there that your feet don't move around - another reason for boots over shoes, even if just ankle boots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A grippier option may be replacement latex socks for a drysuit - with only thin socks underneath and thick on top if needed, plus they're generally quite long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T16:13:41.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14082" CreationDate="2014-02-25T16:25:24.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd agree with what Kibbee said that the 650B is essentially &quot;somewhere in the middle&quot; and it really DEPENDS on the type of riding you do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not test the 650 extensively, but being &quot;better&quot; is a very relative term. The 650 essentially is a compromise, so due to that, it is not better than the other platforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER, in my opinion, 650 is closer to the 26. I measured the overall diameter of a few 650B tires, most are right at 27 (or even slightly under 27). That's only 0.5 inch difference from 27.5, but 2&quot; smaller than a 29er really. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made my mind up the first time I demo'ed a 29er. I ride mostly XC and wooded trails. The trails have steep drops and tight corners at the bottom, then steep climbs - essentially a lot of switchbacks along a ridge. Throw in a few flat fast sections, and even some techinal areas, these are my local trails. The 29er climbs MUCH better than my 26. It is overall much faster on my trails than a comparable 26. The only thing I would knock the 29er on is really tight twisty technical turns, but honestly it is not nearly as bad as I was lead to believe (or at least imagined in my mind). I still have my 26, but for my local trails the 29er wins hands down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my trails, I personally think 29er is better (i.e. faster, smoother).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9135" LastEditorDisplayName="user9135" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T17:12:33.380" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T17:12:33.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20447" CreationDate="2014-02-25T17:54:17.017" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you are of extremely uncommon proportions, you won't find much riding advantage in a custom-made bike— there's plenty of room to tweak a mass-production bike for the a perfect fit through component swaps. Moreover, unless you buy from an experienced touring-bike specialist, it's entirely possible that a custom-designed bike might have little annoyances that'd get caught in the prototype phase for production bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most great cycling adventures have been taken on a mass-production bike of some sort. I rode across the USA on a used $300 Fuji, and it was fine (though a better wheelset would have been worthwhile had I had the budget). I've taken medium-distance tours on a 30 year old Schwinn Varsity, too, which meets all your criteria except packability— that bike fits fat tires, has comfy relaxed geometry, and you can fix pretty much everything on it with an adjustable wrench. By all means, if you have plenty of money and would enjoy a custom bike, buy one, but if funds are limited, I'd spend them on travel as opposed to the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="5702" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T01:13:03.720" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T01:13:03.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-25T20:22:18.407" Score="2" ViewCount="1391" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a shimano ultegra 6700 rear mech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The swing arm/cage is incredibly stiff where it connects to the derailleur. I can just about rotate (red arrows) it a small amount but requires a lot of effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/51wmM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to loosen up using an hex key (at the blue arrow), but it seems incredibly soft and I think I may have rounded out the thread, it would not budge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do? Without any motion in that mech cage means that when I shift into the higher gears on the cassette, it doesn't take up the slack in the chain, causing it to drag along the frame and close to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:41:18.170" Title="Rear mech cage stuck, how can I take it apart?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20451" CreationDate="2014-02-25T20:28:22.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get some WD40 or PB blaster and just shoot the heck out of it. Do this a few times while manually moving it with your hands and it should start moving again. Throw some chain lube in there afterwards to keep it moving nice and clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T20:28:22.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20463" CreationDate="2014-02-25T21:25:49.530" Score="2" ViewCount="15001" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom bracket height on some bikes can be adjusted 7.0mm by flipping a &quot;chip&quot; in the shock mount linkage. This also affects head tube angle by 0.5 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically speaking, What are the advantages and disadvantages of having a lower bottom bracket setting vs a higher setting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9135" LastEditorUserId="2152" LastEditorDisplayName="user9135" LastEditDate="2019-01-21T00:05:51.943" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T07:41:44.477" Title="Lower vs. Taller Bottom Bracket Height" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20447" CreationDate="2014-02-25T21:35:27.253" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're almost certainly better off spending that money on going touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd go so far as to say that until you have done enough touring to have a list of things that you want from your touring bike that you can't get from any production bike, don't bother thinking about it. Well, unless your other hobby is spending money, in which case I suggest buying one from each custom builder and seeing how they compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of a custom frame is that it's built to fit you and has exactly what you want on it. Long term tourists often develop quite specific requirements and no mass-produced bike will satisfy them. Even simple things like built-in racks are depressingly rare in mass-market touring bikes, let alone more specific things like eyelets for tying things to. But again, unless you already have that list of things you're wasting your money getting a custom bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main risk is that you spend a lot of money then decide that it wasn't what you wanted after all. This is especially the case with people who haven't done a lot of touring, and I know at least one builder who refuses commissions from novices for this reason. Every unhappy customer they've had has been a newbie to whatever they wanted the bike for. The solution is to put them on a cheap bike and wait a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With S&amp;amp;S couplers you're likely to need those added after you buy a mass-market bike, which is an opportunity for you to get the framebuilder who does the work to add any little extras you want. It'll very likely be cheaper to buy a new mass-produced bike and have the couplers added than get a customer bike. But it's likely to be cheaper to pay a freight company to ship the bike around the world a couple of times than to get the couplers fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Alan says, you can tour on any bike. I've done a 5Mm trip through northern Australia with people who rode BSOs (bicycle shaped objects), one of whom did the last couple of megametres with no balls in their bottom bracket (and hence, no front derailleur). They didn't enjoy the riding as much as they could have, but they did it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as comfort goes, you will very likely be more comfortable on the cheapest recumbent you can find than the most expensive upright bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T21:35:27.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20453" CreationDate="2014-02-25T21:44:27.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike may ride differently. The only way to find out whether it does anything for you is to buy the bike and try it. Ideally by running the same course repeatedly and writing down how you think the bike performs (and the lap times), while someone takes the bike off you, hands it to a mechanic who never sees you, and the mechanic swaps or doesn't swap the part in question. That way you have a double blind test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One well-known framebuilder in the USA (whose name escapes me) did a very limited set of experiments with small variations in frame geometry in the 1990's, and concluded that no rider could tell the difference from less than half a degree change in headset angle. Unfortunately those experiments were fairly expensive to conduct because he had to make 3 or 4 &quot;identical&quot; bikes and find a set of riders who were all the same size. Basically he let the normal variation in a hand-built bike create the variations, and measured the bike after they were built to find out what he had. Then the riders rode the bikes and rated them against each other. The conclusion was that a millimetre variation in tube lengths and half a degree in angles did not cause any repeatable difference in rider evaluation. But with sample sizes of 3 frames and five riders it's not statistically significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect Trek has similar research (as a result of employing Mike Burrows if nothing else) and would not be at all surprised to find that all major manufacturers have done similar things and specify the tolerances in their manufacturing accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T00:04:05.560" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T00:04:05.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15420" CreationDate="2014-02-25T23:10:55.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can confirm that the garmin 910XT watch is also able to be recharged while recording an activity, the display changes to charging &amp;amp; its % so no information, the Garmin 500 cant be recharge as it will reset any activity unless there is a setting that I haven't seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10408" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T23:10:55.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20462" CreationDate="2014-02-26T08:03:42.607" Score="4" ViewCount="16759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to buy one of these in the next few weeks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/roubaix-sl4-expert-disc-di2-2014-road-bike-ec054008&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Roubaix SL4 Expert Disc Di2 2014 Road Bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I will be using it for commuting and need some luggage so I need to fit a pannier rack (I'm going to ignore all the shouts of horror about using this bike for commuting or putting a rack on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I thought that this was not possible and I was looking at getting a custom Titanium frame made with the same components. I have now found a couple of options though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the Tubus set of pannier racks. I have used a Tubus rack before on a bike with no eyelets and it seemed to work very well. If I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/tubus-clamp-set-for-seat-stay-mounting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tubus Clamp Set For Seat Stay Mounting&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/tubus-adapter-set-for-qr-axle-mounting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tubus Adapter Set For QR-Axle Mounting&lt;/a&gt; I think that'll work won't it? I am unsure if the rack will clear the disc brakes though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the Axiom set of racks as shown in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5HmdPG0oEU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;. They specifically make a rack for road bikes with disc brakes which sounds very promising. I can't see how the rack will attach to the frame at the top with no eyelets and no caliper brakes. I could use the Tubus Clamp set though (which I have on my current bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Will mounting this to my bike damage the carbon frame?&#xA;Any recommendations about which rack / mounting system I should go for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10367" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T09:48:00.717" Title="Will using a pannier rack mounting kit damage a carbon frame Axiom vs Tubus" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20461" CreationDate="2014-02-26T14:40:22.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend getting a second bike for commuting. The Specialized Roubaix is a racing machine. It would also be foolish to leave it locked outside a shop (in case you considered doing that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely you will void the warranty by using clamps on seat stays. To get that low weight, carbon frames are strong only in certain directions and may be relatively weak in others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T19:47:57.773" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T19:47:57.773" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20453" CreationDate="2014-02-26T18:09:26.593" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;in my experience. BB height affects stability of your ride, but mostly while standing on the pedals since you weight is then directly on the BB. but raising it 7mm may or may not make a difference in your ride. however, raising it ABOVE the axle height will make a dramatic difference in stability. BMX bikes are incredibly nimble (aka unstable) due to them having a BB higher than their axles, where as 29'ers will feel solid as a rock since they have a dropped BB height relative to their axles. it has to do with torque applied while standing. (i know wheel size also plays a factor but we're assuming spherical cow here). so considering that the DROP or RISE from the axle height affects the ride more than height, a 13in BB height on a BMX will feel much different than a 13 in BB height on a 29'er.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my track bike has a BB height equal to its axles, and its nimble and fun to ride, where as my road bike has a BB drop height relative to the axles and feels like a cruiser in comparison (both on 700c rims). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR higher BB, in relation to axle height, means a more nimble bike, lower BB is a more stable bike. especially while standing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10351" LastEditorUserId="10351" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T19:47:33.090" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T19:47:33.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-26T20:54:32.313" Score="0" ViewCount="6371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made the mistake of buying a 14 speed bike... I live in WA so it's hills everywhere you turn, took it for a spin yesterday and while on flat surfaces it felt great, but taking hills or going down a massive hill, I was totally limited on my gear options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What components are required to do this upgrade? I'm not looking to go all out, I'm just starting to train for my first sprint tri.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my current components for my Motobecane Mirage S.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Mg6l.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my specific questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need a new chain, or will this chain be compatible with an upgrade to 24 speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need new Cassette/Freewheel, right? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need new shifters (I'm assuming 3X8... as its 3x8 is it pretty much compatible with any 24 speed upgrade?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need a new Rear Derailleur? (This should be an 8 speed correct?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need a new front derailleur? If so, do the front and rear derailleurs need to be compatible. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to make sure I'm not buying these new components to install and find out it wont work because they are not compatible. I'm pretty new to this so I need some advice. We do all our bike work/upgrades ourselves to save money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10417" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T21:44:47.237" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T22:40:50.237" Title="What components are required to upgrade from a 14 speed to 24 speed?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20464" CreationDate="2014-02-26T21:16:17.203" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, make sure your bike is fit properly - with a bad fit, your efficiency is likely lousy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More sprockets is not necessarily going to make you go faster/easier - changing gear appropriately and becoming more physically fit will (along with better selected sprockets sizes - we went ages before the Gillette razor-blade increase in rear sprockets...). Most of the more sprocket drive trains are driven by hype. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need better choices of sprockets, but certainly, with a 2 x 7 setup, you have enough choices that it should be fine (for example, if you were touring, a 11 cog in the rear would be useless - you'd want a range of larger cogs so you could move the stuff you're lugging around). A 24 speed would need a 3 x 8 setup which means new crankset, new front derailleur, possibly new bottom bracket, new cassette and new shifters (these are the real killer if you want brifters; bar ends or downtube or friction shifters somewhere are cheaper) assuming you could get the chainline and what not right (the RD will be fine if you stay shimano). At this point, with a cheap bike like the Mirage S (400 dollars), you're better off just replacing the whole bike, since parts and labor will cost more than the bike is worth/costs (you will also need some tools you might not have, like a crank puller and cassette tool and cable cutters and what not). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going for a sprint tri, you should be in decent physical shape, so I'd look at fit or just spend some time getting used to the gearing - whenever I haven't ridden my road bike in a while and I get back on, I feel like its geared way too high, but after a few weeks, I feel fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to change something and you're sticking to this bike, your best bet is to just change the cassette to something with a wider range of gearing. This may necessitate a new rear derailleur (go wide range (marketed with a SGS code) from Shimano). I guess a new chain may be needed as well if you're using weird gear combinations. I suggest you go to your LBS and see what they'd recommend for a new cassette if you want something easier, given the terrain you're likely to ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: Don't do this. Either get used to the gearing, put on a larger rear cassette or get a new bike. More speeds isn't necessarily better, knowing how to use them and picking the right speeds is far more valuable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T21:30:18.273" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T21:30:18.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20464" CreationDate="2014-02-26T22:40:50.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally to change the gearing you only need to increase and decrease the size of the cogs. The number of gears determines the difference between gear shifts, ot the end gears. No need to upgrade to 24 speed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I advise caution making too many changes as its a lower end bike and parts are expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall the bike looks reasonably geared for a road bike. I suspect you are not cycle fit, hence the problems are more about technique and specific fitness than the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to increase the top speed, you will need to increase the size of the larges front cog or decrease the size of the smallest rear cog. you current have 50x12 respectively. A 50x11 would give you around 10% more speed. Changing the front to 52 would probably not be worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lowest gear is determined by the small front / large rear cog. In you case you are running 34/28. For road use this is reasonable already, although for hills lower might be better. To lower your lowest gear, either decrease the size of the front cog or increase the rear. Unfortunately the rear derailleur is only rated for 28 tooth max, so you will need to replace this. A 30 front chain ring would help - are you chain rings bolted or riveted to the crankest? If bolted they can be changed individually - but increasing the difference may require a new rear derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that if you decide to go ahead and spend money, upgrade the derailleur and look for a cassette (rear cogs) in the range 11/13/15/18/21/24/30 or 32. Likely you will also need a new chain as the larger rear cog will probably mean the existing one will not be long enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; has excellent information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T22:40:50.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-26T23:40:09.410" Score="1" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am putting a bike together and have it all apart but don't see the derailleur hanger anywhere.  Did I lose it or did the bike not come with it?  If it didn't come with it, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10420" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T23:27:54.087" Title="Did the Giant Trinity A1 come with a derailleur hanger?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20467" CreationDate="2014-02-27T02:44:27.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear derailleur hanger on the Trinity was not replaceable, it was part of the frame and was there at the time of production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VAgAA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2007 Giant Trinity A1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no hanger on the end of the rear drop out then it has likely been either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;purposely removed (to make a single speed or fixie, possibly for track racing);&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;sheered off in a crash (or deformed and then removed); or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;not an authentic Trinity frame.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T23:27:54.087" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T23:27:54.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20471" CreationDate="2014-02-27T03:55:41.273" Score="1" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I read somewhere something like having someone drafting behind also has effect to the rider in front. I wonder if it's true and would like to understand how does it work because it's quite unintuitive (if it's true at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, other than robbing the rider in front from tailwind, does the drafter help at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T16:58:04.950" Title="Aerodynamic effect of drafter to the draftee" Tags="&lt;aerodynamics&gt;&lt;drafting&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-02-27T17:24:49.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20470" CreationDate="2014-02-27T05:37:02.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are riding along on your own you're not only pushing the air in front of you out of the way, the most obvious source of air resistance, but you're also being slowed by the turbulent air behind you. However slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, having someone draft you will help smooth out that turbulence, and so you benefit as well! ( Just make sure they take their turn in front ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exploratorium.edu/cycling/aerodynamics2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.exploratorium.edu/cycling/aerodynamics2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3RgiO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T16:58:04.950" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T16:58:04.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20473" CreationDate="2014-02-27T15:13:35.253" Score="3" ViewCount="6789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have fancy new full-suspension bike and both shocks have this strange setting, called &lt;code&gt;Rebound&lt;/code&gt;. It's a red dial, beside the blue CTD lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing it makes the shock less responsive to small obstacles. Thus, pedal bob is reduced. However, if I max it out, the shock becomes so stiff, that even jumping onto the saddle (the bike is stationary) from quite some height doesn't move it a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are some guidelines to tune my fork and rear shock for the terrain that I ride in and for my mass?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rear shock has CTD. Why would I ever want to limit the travel and sustain high pedal bob, when I can just increase the rebound and enjoy efficient pedaling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is known from Linear systems, that a suspension can roughly be modeled by &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;m*a + b*v + c*s = Fs, where&#xA;m - mass&#xA;a - second derivative of position with respect to time&#xA;b - damping coefficient&#xA;v - first derivative of position&#xA;c - spring coefficient&#xA;s - position&#xA;Fs - fore on the suspension element.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is &lt;code&gt;rebound&lt;/code&gt; the same as the coefficient &lt;code&gt;b&lt;/code&gt; above? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T14:02:08.960" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T17:12:48.797" Title="How to setup rebound?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20472" CreationDate="2014-02-27T15:59:57.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rebound is close to b in your equations above. The guides I've seen and used recommend the following procedure for setting rear shock rebound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride over a sidewalk curb ( ie. 4-5 inch drop ) and adjust the rebound until you have only one bounce. I.e. you want the shock to be able to absorb a hit, but not keep rebounding to cause you to lose control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting the rebound on the front fork is similar, but not as straight forward. Find a short bumpy descent and keep doing it until you feel like you've got the best control. It's a balance between absorbing the hit and keeping control of the front wheel. If the front shock is &quot;bouncing&quot; more than once after the hit you are don't have control during the up phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you set the rebound too high, the shock won't be able to function as designed to absorb the terrain. If you think of it as a wave form, you want the rebound to not significantly damp out the initial height of the wave, but to damp out the oscillations as quickly as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you get better and faster you will likely need to tweak the rebound. The trick is to always find that balance between absorbing the hit and sustaining the hit through oscillations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T23:38:19.150" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T23:38:19.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-27T17:34:40.677" Score="9" ViewCount="3758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in how wind chill and temperature come into play while cycling.  If I rode on one day with the temperature at 15°F (-9°C), but the wind chill was 1F (-17°C), how would that relate to a day where the temperature is 10°F (-12°C) or 20°F (-6°C) with the same wind chill?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T23:06:53.717" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T08:29:30.317" Title="How to relate wind chill, temperature, and cycling" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;wind&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18925" CreationDate="2014-02-27T17:46:53.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use regular &quot;safety&quot; glasses for my clear riding pair (anytime it isn't sunny):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GA5zB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They work really well since they cover a large area and keep the wind out of my eyes.  Great for myself with my contacts.  The only downside I have with these are that they will fog up when I'm sitting still, but moving clears them off.  If it is at a light, not enough to be a problem, but a longer break might be a concern.  I don't wear a baklava, but I do wear a toboggan hat and helmet, but still no interference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best part is that they tend to be cheap.  I bought these for less than 5 bucks at a local fair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T17:46:53.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-27T17:52:36.133" Score="0" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike Description&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front suspension, knobby tires&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame: Aluminum w/semi-integrated head tube, bi-oval down tube w/integrated gusset, rack &amp;amp; fender mounts, disc compatible dropouts, replaceable derailleur hanger&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front Suspension: Front suspension SR Suntour XCT w/coil spring and preload, 80mm travel&#xA;Wheels: Formula alloy FM21 front hub, FM31 rear hub; Bontrager 550 36-hole rims w/brushed sidewalls&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifters: Shimano EF51, 7 speed? Something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakeset: Tektro linear pull brakes w/Shimano EF51 levers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;19&quot; frame- I believe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My son is in his first triathlon end of May. He is 12, 5'2 and 31&quot; inseam. So we gather he needs a Med bike 19&quot;+(50cm) but going through growth spurts... We would love to get him a new/used road bike, however it is a big expense, and he just grew two inches this month (and summer is coming with more spurts on the way). I don't want to invest in a bike that will be too small for him in June, so finding a way to make this work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we are looking at the temporary. We all have mountain bikes, and was recommended to us, that we switch out the suspension with light weight, rigid forks, and also switch out our wheels/tires. It is not a road bike, but will get us through till our son gets to a more interchangeable height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What size, or type of fork is recommended? Is there a difference in size? We can afford alloy, or aluminum for both wheels and forks, and looking to spend about $200 for the temp. situation. And then tires, what is recommended. Are there additional things that are missing in the componentry that would be needed to pull this together? Not as in brakes or gears, just bear bones. We are not looking to build a bike, just have a go between solution while my son is growing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions, appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( Yes I got the inseam right. You should see all of his high waders. He is leggy. Enough that the rest of him will be catching up soon.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10430" LastEditorUserId="10430" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T18:13:52.213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T18:13:52.213" Title="Trek 3700 XC Hardtail - looking to convert to temp road bike" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-02-27T18:33:13.307" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20476" CreationDate="2014-02-27T18:05:05.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to use a mountain bike on the road, you put on slick tires (this is all I'd recommend doing for bang for your buck). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend changing out the wheel sets, since this is pricey and doesn't give you a ton of gains unless you're really at the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rigid fork would be a bit lighter, but you do need to match it to the type of fork you have there (this would be a good thing to consult with your LBS on, given that you need to get the fork cut and what not). I don't think this is strictly necessary (weight isn't that much of a killer, and this is a bit pricey for a bike that the kid is going to outgrow in a few months) - just lock out the fork (if you can) and move on with your life. It isn't ideal, but it wont make or break you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly is to probably fit the kid as best as possible to the bike you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, 31 inch inseam seems high for a 5'2&quot; kid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T18:05:05.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20480" CreationDate="2014-02-27T18:48:58.660" Score="0" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im repairing a friends bike and changing the crank. I have removed it and want to find a replacement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The removed item is Model: BB-06-PSPL - 113/68&#xA;Im wondering if there is a replacement Shimano model? or an upgraded part available as the bike is quite old.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His bike is running Shimano Tiagra triple crank 9 speed. I am wondering if I could change the crank over to shimano aswell or would this not be possible due to the fittings in the crank housing.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for you time in advanced &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10432" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T19:31:36.803" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:35:27.763" Title="Truvativ Crank housing" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;compact-crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20479" CreationDate="2014-02-27T19:30:16.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The item you removed (BB-06-PSPL - 113/68) is the bottom bracket. The 113/68 means that it s 113mm spindle length and 68mm bottom bracket length this means that it is a standard size and will be easily replaced. The PSPL means that it has a Powerspline interface with the cranks, this is a Truvativ/ SRAM proprietry system so if you wish to keep the cranks you are using you would need a replacement Truvativ cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to change the crankset as well you are not limited in any way as long as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bottom bracket is 68mm and English thread and has the same interface as your new crankset, or you could choose and external bearing set up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The crankset is built for the right drive train, if you have a 9 speed rear derailleur you need a 9 speed crankset as chain widths are different.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can achieve the same chain line as your current set up with a new crankset through selecting the right spindle length.  (this may take a few internet searches for Shimano this is available in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tech Docs&lt;/a&gt; for each crankset).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T20:01:25.490" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T20:01:25.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16584" CreationDate="2014-02-27T19:45:10.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't wish to be rude but how heavy are you?  Back in the 1950s my father owned an Autocycle (that's a heavy duty bicycle with a 98cc or a 50 cc engine) The cups and cones were always giving trouble and he blamed this on the extra weight caused by the engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suspect that flaking or spalling of the race-ways might be due the lack of preload.  Ideally several balls need to be carrying the load at the same time.  Extreme Pressure grease might also help, not just thin oil.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10434" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T19:45:10.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20474" CreationDate="2014-02-27T20:01:39.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, let's start with wind chill.  The faster the wind, the more chill &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nws.noaa.gov/os/windchill/index.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wind Chill chart from the National Weather Service&lt;/a&gt; Read along the top for the temperature without wind, then down for wind chill at different speeds.  So, for example, at 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-9°C) in a 15mph (6.7 m/s) wind, effective temperature is 0 degrees Fahrenheit (-18°C). (chilly!) That chart only works up to 40 degrees F (4°C), but it gives the idea! This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.csgnetwork.com/windchillcalc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wind chill Calculator&lt;/a&gt; allows you to put in any value, and speed of air&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, that's if you're standing still.  If you're cycling you almost always have a headwind, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/wind.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to a page with masses of detailed information about headwinds.  The faster you go, the faster the effective windspeed, and the lower the temperature felt.  This can be really helpful on a hot summer day, or really chilly in a cold winter!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cycling you have to take this into account - in the winter, layer up (and find a wind proof jacket if possible.)  In the summer, it means that you can actually go up that big hill without totally overheating! I remember one hot day, on a steep incline, I rounded a bend, and came straight into the lee (wind shielded) side of the hill - in seconds I was feeling way too hot, without the cooling breeze.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T22:44:04.070" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T22:44:04.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20474" CreationDate="2014-02-27T20:33:36.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it will help the most to simply having a better &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_chill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;understanding of wind chill&lt;/a&gt;. A wind chill of 1 is a wind chill of 1, regardless of the air temperature you start with ( Granted, to make matters more complex, there's not really a standard for calculating wind chill ). The wind chill you experience personally while on your bicycle depends entirely on your speed / the wind speed, and your direction vs wind direction, and those variables are typically changing constantly and often on a bicycle. If you are traveling at the same speed and direction as the wind, then you won't experience a wind chill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go for a ride on a particularly windy day, the best thing you can do is bring the appropriate extra clothes you'll need to make yourself warmer or colder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T20:33:36.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20447" CreationDate="2014-02-28T04:17:34.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you decide on a custom frame or coupled bike you should have a very good of idea of what type of touring and how far from home you intend to go. &#xA;I say this as someone who has made close to 100 multi-day tours since the mid 1980s, none over 14 days long with the average around 7 days. I started with a mid-80s Trek 520 (very different from the current bike of the same name and purpose) and now close to dozen touring/travel bikes later have a Salsa Vaya Travel. Different bikes are appropriate for different with fit and saddle the best measure of comfort. If you drive to your tour start/end point S+S coupling (or folding bike collectively 'suitcase bikes') are not priorities or money well spent. Start with event tours (the sponsor carries your gear from camp site to camp site) on a second hand touring or cycle cross frame that fits well and make decisions based upon your experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10418" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T04:17:34.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20472" CreationDate="2014-02-28T07:16:55.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rebound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Increasing it makes the shock less responsive to small obstacles.&#xA;  Thus, pedal bob is reduced. However, if I max it out, the shock&#xA;  becomes so stiff, that even jumping onto the saddle (the bike is&#xA;  stationary) from quite some height doesn't move it a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you are refering to compression. Rebound is damping when the fork travel tries to return to original length. Compression is damping when the fork travel is being reduced (in high or low speed) due to a bump, a root, a landing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot have a single rebound setting that will be the best for you in all terrains. Thus you'll either want to find a generally good setting that will work in the most places you ride at, or fiddle with it whenever you change terrain or riding style (dh vs dirt jumps). I suggest you aim for the first, at least for 6-12 months of riding with your new hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A middle setting generally is a safe start. Count the clicks you have and just set it at the middle. In that setting start riding in trails that you know well so you can get a feel of the suspensions. If it seems to work well then leave it like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T10:06:04.500" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T10:06:04.500" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20491" CreationDate="2014-02-28T09:59:44.537" Score="6" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some time ago I read about a project in which bike commuters tracked their paths in order to map then on-line and have a place to see the most frequent routes in their city. Do you know this or other similar projects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8140" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T16:37:24.443" Title="Urban rides map projects" Tags="&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20488" CreationDate="2014-02-28T10:55:56.320" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an android app mapmyride which sounds similar to what you want.   It may also be on  the  iPhone &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10269" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T10:55:56.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20488" CreationDate="2014-02-28T11:42:02.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're probably thinking of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rideable.org.au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rideable - Cycling Visualisations&lt;/a&gt;. They have videos showing commutes in Sydney, London and Bristol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other projects such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://casa.oobrien.com/traffic/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;London Cycling Census&lt;/a&gt;. That compares different vehicle types (bicycles, cars, buses, lorries, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theguardian.com/news/datablog+lifeandstyle/cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Guardian Datablog&lt;/a&gt; is a good source for this sort of information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T11:42:02.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20488" CreationDate="2014-02-28T14:56:45.337" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strava has a heatmap function you can enable on their route planner.  This will show the more frequently used streets and will vary intensity of color based on popularity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/routes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.strava.com/routes/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Garmin Connect also has a heat map functionality built in to their route planner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://connect.garmin.com/course/create&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://connect.garmin.com/course/create&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The garmin maps seem to be more effective in heavily used areas like city center and heavily trafficked trails, while strava seems to be a bit better at showing a bit more detail in both city and rural areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;May also want to check out Race Shape's heat map, which seems to be a worldwide bike based heat map. Race shape pulls data from strava and ridewithgps.com to create these heat maps. &lt;a href=&quot;http://raceshape.com/heatmap/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://raceshape.com/heatmap/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Strava has taken over Raceshape and incorporated it in their premium product.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="6852" LastEditDate="2021-02-04T16:37:24.443" LastActivityDate="2021-02-04T16:37:24.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-28T21:08:16.090" Score="-3" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;is the specialized Tricross or Crosstrail bike preferable for a combination of light trail riding and road riding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10440" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T01:11:15.867" Title="Guidance on Specialized bike models" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-03-01T15:14:04.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20493" CreationDate="2014-03-01T01:11:15.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on your riding style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel that riding on trails is too jarring to your wrists and don't like drop bars, then go for the crosstrail. It's a hybrid, it's kind of part way to mountain bike, but not really suited to agressive offroad riding.  On this bike you'll be more upright than on a road bike, You're in a less agressive postion for road riding, so this is a better bike for around town, and hopping on your local rail-trail which might be a little bumpy. This bike has a shock, that will suck some power out of your pedaling on the road but make it marginally more comfortable on a trail. This bike also comes with fatter tires than the tricross, which you might like if you're off the roads more than on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you primarily will ride roads, especially if you hang out with folks who want to do longer road rides, then the tricross might be for you.  It is much more like a road bike, with clearance for larger tires and lacking suspension. If you primarily ride roads, and take some other rides on multi-use trails, dirt roads and such which are relatively smooth most of the time, then this will be fine. The slimmer tires that come stock are good all-around tires and work ok on road and trail. However, if you're doing more road riding, you may want to consider getting slick tires for the street. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both bikes are nice, but you need to consider how you'll primarily use the bike. Neither of these bikes is going to work well on mountain bike singletrack trails, but I don't really think that's what you're asking about anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T01:11:15.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20497" CreationDate="2014-03-01T18:42:24.290" Score="24" ViewCount="96063" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a plastic disc between the cassette and rear wheel on my bicycle. It doesn't seem to have any effect on the actual drivetrain; but I've seen it on a number of bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T10:54:31.850" Title="What is the purpose of the plastic disk between the cassette and the rear wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20495" CreationDate="2014-03-01T19:03:47.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its a spoke guard. It prevents the chain from going between the spokes and cassette causing damage if you shift too far. This can only happen on badly tuned gears or old friction shifted shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T19:03:47.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20495" CreationDate="2014-03-01T19:07:05.040" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spokeprotector&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spoke Protector&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A plastic or sheet-metal disc that fits between the cluster and the right-side spokes of a rear wheel. This is intended to prevent the&#xA;  derailer or chain from getting caught in the spokes, possibly causing&#xA;  very extensive/expensive damage/destruction to the wheel, the&#xA;  derailer, and the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A spoke protector is not a necessity on a bike that is well treated, because the derailer can't go into the spokes if it's&#xA;  properly adjusted and if it is not bent. Bicycles which are subjected&#xA;  to rough handling, however, are prone to getting the rear derailer&#xA;  bashed in, and in such a case, the spoke protector can prevent very&#xA;  serious damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from purely personal anecdotal experience: I have a friend that doesn't like spoke protectors and has been pretty vocal about it. Faith would have it that a maladjusted XTR derailleur wrecked his wheel and destroyed itself. A spoke protector would have prevented just that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T19:07:05.040" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20499" CreationDate="2014-03-01T19:31:10.247" Score="3" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using a CatEye Stealth 50 GPS device to record some of my longer rides. I've not been using it for commuting though because my commute is only ~30 minutes, and the CatEye takes 3-5 minutes to start recording data. I don't want to add 10% to my commute time just for GPS lock :)*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would upgrading to one of the Garmin devices like an Edge 500/510/800/810 make a significant difference in initial lock time? (I'm somewhat spoiled by my cell phone and car that achieve locks almost instantly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* That said, the CatEye was only $150, and at that price I couldn't be happier with its performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1636" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T21:42:33.007" Title="How long do Garmin's cycling GPS devices take to get an initial GPS lock?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20498" CreationDate="2014-03-01T20:54:27.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the Garmin/Cateye devices have similar GPS hardware and will take similar amounts of time to get a lock. I don't think upgrading to another device is going to help you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your cell phone is faster because it uses A-GPS, which uses the cell tower data stream to download &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GPS_signals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GPS ephemeris and almanac data&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked a question a while ago about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/17560/1588&quot;&gt;how to optimise getting a lock&lt;/a&gt; which might help you out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found it best that after the GPS is turned on, it's best not to move until it gets a lock. If it's downloading and constantly getting interrupted by moving buildings, it takes a lot longer to get a lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T20:54:27.683" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20517" CreationDate="2014-03-01T22:31:19.387" Score="-3" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;What mountain bike websites are available? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like recommendations of sites containing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;news&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;product reviews&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;interesting articles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;photo reviews&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the kind of sites I am after is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PinkBike&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10389" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-03-02T03:23:52.483" LastActivityDate="2018-01-14T07:21:59.673" Title="Mountain Biking Websites" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-01-15T13:52:00.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-01T23:57:27.310" Score="9" ViewCount="3670" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a few near misses by cars and two mates actually being hit I want to start using a &lt;strong&gt;camera for taping video footage&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are my requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long battery life (3h+) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inconspicuous (absolutely no fancy GoPro-stuff on top of my helmet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small &amp;amp; lightweight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reasonably priced (&amp;lt; 200AUS / 150EUR / 200US)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reasonable easy to use (with gloves, in the rain, ...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good enough quality / angle for footage, but no further HD++ requirements&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stylish &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of these questions (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8628/recommendations-for-inconspicuous-helmet-mounted-video-camera&quot;&gt;Recommendations for inconspicuous helmet-mounted video camera&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1060/what-is-a-good-camera-arrangement-for-city-ridin&quot;&gt;What is a good camera arrangement for city riding?&lt;/a&gt;) from 2010 &amp;amp; 2012, but with camera technology advancing rapidly, most recommendations and discussions are outdated as of 2014. I thought about adding to them, but think starting from a clean slate it beneficial for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of internet research I think I boiled it down to a handlebar-based setup with one of following cameras (for people with a larger budget, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gizmag.com/2013-actioncam-comparison-guide/30064/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; looks like an interesting comparison of mostly more expensive models):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tachyoninc.com/microhd.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tachion MicroHD&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1: 2.5h - 3: 96g - 4: 200US - 6: HD/125° - 7: :(&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.liquidimageco.com/collections/ego/products/model-727-the-ego-1#specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Liquid Image Ego&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1: 2.0h - 3: 70g - 4: 200US - 6: HD/135° - 7: :/&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dogcam.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DogCam HD2&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1: 1.5h - 3: 62g - 4: 250AUS - 6: HD/135° - 7: :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://contour.com/collections/cameras/products/contourroam2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Contour Roam2&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1: 2.5h - 3: 144g - 4: 275AUS - 6: HD/170° - 7: :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://contour.com/collections/cameras/products/contour-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Contour +2&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1: ???h - 3: 155g - 4: 450AUS - 6: HD/170° - 7: :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://polaroid.com/xs100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polaroid XS 100&lt;/a&gt; (identical to cheaper &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easypix.eu/es/product?info=119&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Easypix xtasy&lt;/a&gt;?):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1: 3.0h - 3: 136g - 4: 170AUS - 6: HD/170° - 7: :/&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kaiserbaas.com/cameras/x80-action-camera#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kaiser Baas X80 Action Cam&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1: 2.5h - 3: ???g - 4: 150AUS - 6: HD/???° - 7: :/&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finally come to my questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;have experience in that problem domain / with one these models&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;know about further alternatives&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will try to update the question with further information...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10441" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T14:21:39.270" Title="Camera alternatives for commuting (2014 version)" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="12" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-10-09T16:26:38.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20500" CreationDate="2014-03-02T03:22:19.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are numerous websites for mountain biking, each tends to service a niche either geographically or as part of the spectrum of mountain biking. Some of the bigger sites are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com&quot;&gt;Mountain Bike Review (MTBR)&lt;/a&gt; - US site&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://singletrackworld.com&quot;&gt;SingleTrack&lt;/a&gt; - UK site&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeradar.com/mtb/&quot;&gt;Bike Radar&lt;/a&gt; - large cycling site with big mountain bike section&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://NSMB.com&quot;&gt;NSMB&lt;/a&gt; - similar and related to &lt;a href=&quot;http://pinkbike.com&quot;&gt;PinkBike&lt;/a&gt; but focused on BC, Canada's North Shore&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T03:22:19.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-02T09:53:50.333" Score="8" ViewCount="7195" Body="&lt;p&gt;When riding, the rear wheel feels as if there is a tiny pebble, stuck within the thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheel is one week old, the hub is Shimano FH-M475. I have done only very tiny jumps - for example from curbs, but could have landed badly a few times i.e. directly on the saddle. I am 70kg (154lbs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have rim brakes, so I can't determine if the rim is bent. However,visually, it is fine. My rear tire runs at 4.5 bar (65psi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is the axle bent? Is it my fault or can I claim warranty?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3021" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T23:36:40.843" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T13:24:07.377" Title="How to determine if my rear axle is bent?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2014-03-02T10:14:32.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using &lt;strong&gt;old clothes&lt;/strong&gt; is an obvious answer. I wear clothes from a second-hand shop - they cost next to nothing and wear quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, it is beneficial to have &lt;strong&gt;two active rags at any time&lt;/strong&gt;. The rough one is used to remove mud from the frame and drivetrain. The fine one is cleaner and used for cleaning the chain after lubing, the stanchions and any parts, near the discs of the rotors of disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another source of rags can be online delivery &lt;strong&gt;packaging paper&lt;/strong&gt; - thick recycled paper, put inside the boxes to prevent the items from sliding around. It soaks grease well and furthermore provides outstanding grip on greasy surfaces (quick-link). However, using paper to soak oils renders it unrecyclable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T13:06:28.577" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T13:06:28.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20514" CreationDate="2014-03-02T14:26:48.997" Score="0" ViewCount="26802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am rookie and I want to know about mountain bike and want to know that if my height is 5.9 which mountain bike works for me. So guys please help to know about mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10428" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2014-03-03T04:41:22.950" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T23:04:48.567" Title="if my height is 5'9&quot; what mtb should I buy?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-03-05T16:00:28.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20505" CreationDate="2014-03-02T15:02:00.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is impossible to determine via the internet - the fit of a bike depends on inseam, arm length, and a multitude of other physical measurements as well as personal preference and the type of bike (there are large variations in types of mountain bikes even) and riding style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read this &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; for more details on what goes into bike fitting. Note that its really more of an art than a science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to your local bike shop and ask for a bike fit and try out lots of bikes in realistic riding conditions and find one that works for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T15:02:00.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20508" CreationDate="2014-03-02T15:27:38.357" Score="11" ViewCount="2707" Body="&lt;p&gt;so I've taken some pictures of the valve on my bike tyre (if you zoom out they look clearer...), below. Basically, it's a new bike and I have no experience around these things. The pump I have doesn't fit onto the valve, because it gets stopped by the nut in the middle before it can attach - it's like the pump head is too deep for the valve. Does that make sense? But when I take the metal nut in the middle off, obviously the valve then falls out - but if I hold it in place it can pump the tyre up (showing that the pump is the right type) - but as soon as I remove the pump the valve then falls out and all the air comes out of the tyre again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the bike in Europe (Slovenia) if that changes anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any advice on what to do here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My pump is &lt;a href=&quot;http://washford.scene7.com/is/image/Washford/128234&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://washford.scene7.com/is/image/Washford/128234&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGYAQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbWJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/goGz9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10448" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:28:34.187" Title="What type is my bike valve, and why can't I pump it up?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20507" CreationDate="2014-03-02T15:51:54.737" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunlop_valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;dunlop&quot;&lt;/a&gt; valve. Also called &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_w.html#woods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;woods&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. I used to see this years ago in BMX bikes. For best results we'd use to have a schrader adapter (google: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=dunlop%20to%20schrader%20adapter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dunlop to schrader adapter&lt;/a&gt;) so we could inflate with schrader pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1f/Dunlop_valve.jpg/150px-Dunlop_valve.jpg&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.450" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T15:51:54.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20505" CreationDate="2014-03-02T15:52:26.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to a bike shop and try them out. I'm 5'9&quot; and usually ride a 'medium' in surly sizes, which is about 16-18 top tube.  However, your body proportions are likely a bit different, so the only way is to ride a few and get a feel.  Keep in mind, what feels good cruising on the road, might be different from what feels good on singletrack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you really want to do is find a bike that has the right sized frame that fits well and refine the fit from there. You can always swap out your stem and adjust your seatpost to get the fit right.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After having a couple bike fits done, I recommend finding a bike shop that can do a fit for you (a lot of shops might consider giving you a discount fit if you're buying the bike from them). It's not mandatory, but it can yeild big improvements in some cases. I don't even know how long I rode on my cross bike with a stem that was too long and caused pain in my wrists and discomfort in my back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fitting a bit different than the technique for road bikes.  Here's a good guide to bike fit suited for mountain bikes that will give you a bit more info for details of a good fit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/technique-perfect-mountain-bike-fit-29498/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/technique-perfect-mountain-bike-fit-29498/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T15:52:26.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20505" CreationDate="2014-03-02T17:14:38.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to have a bike pro fit you, but you have some options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test ride:&#xA;drive some around in the parking lot to get a feel for the bike. A good shop will work with you and not just try to take your money. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Demo a bike: find a dealer that will let you demo a bike - that is actually take a bike (or 2) on your local trails to ride. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-fit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; by REI on bike fit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-fit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-fit.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm &lt;strong&gt;5'10 and was riding medium&lt;/strong&gt; for a longtime, the last bike I&#xA;   purchased (a 29er), I actually felt much more comfortable on the&#xA;   &lt;strong&gt;large frame&lt;/strong&gt;. This goes against conventional wisdom that says you&#xA;   might want a slightly smaller frame on a 29er. With that being said, the bike geometry can be different depending on the bike, which will require different seat height and stem lenght (to name a couple) just to make you feel comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go in to a local shop and ask lots of questions. Also, you may be tempted to buy online to save a couple hundred dollars. Honestly, having the option to go into the shop you bought is so much better, they usually work with you and will give you a free tune up. My local shop is awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9135" LastEditorDisplayName="user9135" LastEditDate="2014-03-03T23:04:48.567" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T23:04:48.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20503" CreationDate="2014-03-02T21:30:38.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my mind, a 'feeling like a small pebble' suggests something in the hub itself, perhaps a failing bearing. To test for bearing damage, hold the axle in two hands and spin on he wheel. See if you get a regular catching feeling that would suggest a damaged bearing or bearing surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T21:30:38.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20501" CreationDate="2014-03-02T22:34:26.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few years ago we bought a pile of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-DV-DVR-Sports-Video-Voice-Recorder-Hidden-Camera-Camcorder-Webcam-MD80-/111261982099?pt=AU_Video_Cameras&amp;amp;hash=item19e7bb1d93&amp;amp;_uhb=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sub-$20 &quot;mini dv&quot;&lt;/a&gt; cams off ebay and they work fine as safety cams. Finding a waterproof enclosure is effectively impossible, so I used a plastic bag. At ~$10 each losing one is no the end of the world. Sample video: &lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/15050277&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vimeo.com/15050277&lt;/a&gt;. If you're experimenting, buying a couple of those might be a worthwhile start to see how much hassle they are and how much use you get out of the camera. (I no longer bother, but then I ride to Cooks River cycleway every day and only ~5km of actual roads)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I've become more aware of/irritated by recently is the difference between 60fps and slower frame rates. For a safety cam 15fps is fine, but if you want to use the video for anything, 30fps is hard to watch. And a lot of the 1080p cameras don't even do 720p60. So if you're going to spend $200+ on an &quot;HD&quot; camera, try to get one that does a decent frame rate. That way when you start playing with the video you wan't get too grumpy. If you shoot at 1080p60 you can usually get software-stabilised 720p60 out of it, or you can pay a bit extra and get the stabilised &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sony.com.au/productcategory/cam-action-cam&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sony action cam&lt;/a&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T22:34:26.683" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-03-02T22:34:26.683" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20505" CreationDate="2014-03-03T05:53:51.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You most probably need a medium but that can depend on the brand and riding style. For example my previous 2 MTBs (trek, commencal) where medium but my current one (canyon) is small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a go at canyon's interactive tool: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canyon.com/_en/tools/pps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.canyon.com/_en/tools/pps.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2014-03-03T15:13:33.657" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T15:13:33.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20501" CreationDate="2014-03-03T10:04:51.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use one of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HD-720P-Waterproof-Sport-Helmet-Action-Bike-Moto-Camera-Cam-DVR-Camcorder-HDMI-/111019533187?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_Video_Camcorders&amp;amp;hash=item19d947a383&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; for kayaking - I didn't want a gopro sticking out of the top of my helmet and snagging in trees, and I didn't want to spend a lot.  It has a handlebar mount but I haven't tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battery life seems decent but it appears (and this may be an issue with more expensive models as well) to run down faster than I would like when switched &quot;off&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that you get some form of quick release method unless you're taking the bike right in to a secure location - some of the good quality ones I've seen are fiddly to remove. Also check that it's simple to operate and flexible to get the data off - e.g. SD card rather than internal storage only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like there are more cheap options now than when I bought mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T10:04:51.360" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-10-09T16:26:38.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-03T14:01:23.750" Score="0" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be a good bike which would be low priced and work for a rookie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10428" LastEditorUserId="3021" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T23:20:59.777" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T23:20:59.777" Title="What would be some good and affordable mountain bikes for a beginner?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-03-11T21:09:03.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20500" CreationDate="2014-03-03T14:20:05.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expanding on previous answer(s):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PinkBike&lt;/a&gt; - THE mountain bike site&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dirtragmag.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dirt Rag&lt;/a&gt; - One of the oldest mountain bike magazines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vitalmtb.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vital MTB&lt;/a&gt; - Another great source of new/reviews&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Rumor&lt;/a&gt; - Mostly product previews/reviews&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T15:17:05.493" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T15:17:05.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-03T14:55:33.753" Score="1" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the title says, I'm looking for some recommendations on good flat pedal shoes. This could include ones with an SPD or other interface that has removable clips. I'm currently riding with a set of 5.10 Freeriders, which offer great traction and grip to flats, but are really heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point, I'll probably have to force myself to race clipped in, but for now I love my ability to quickly dab and destroy any downhill sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick breakdown of what I'm looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Light weight&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grippy/good traction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No clips/removable clips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T08:06:18.257" Title="What are some good flat pedal shoes for XC racing?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-03-13T23:47:45.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20518" CreationDate="2014-03-03T15:36:02.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/five-ten-freerider-vxi-shoes/rp-prod93891&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Five Ten Freerider VXi Elements&lt;/a&gt; - 398 gram&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/five-ten-freerider-mtb-shoes/rp-prod93011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Five Ten Freerider&lt;/a&gt; - 399 gram&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giro.com/us_en/jacket.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giro Jacket&lt;/a&gt; - 416 gram&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikemag.com/gear/review-shimano-am41/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano AM41&lt;/a&gt; - 420 gram&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Teva-Links-Shoe-review-2011.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Teva Links&lt;/a&gt; - 440 gram&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/2014-661-Mens-Filter-Black/dp/B00EZO5NJK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;661 Filter&lt;/a&gt; - 680 Gram&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, all the available (excluding high-top shoes) flat pedal shoes weigh the same. You could theoretically shave 1 gram by switching to the Freerider VXi Elements, but that would hardly be worth the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative could be some light weight skate shoes, but then you would probably loose out on grip and the weight savings would probably still be negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for comparison &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/no/en/diadora-x-trail-2-carbon-mtb-shoes-2013/rp-prod86650&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diadora X-Trail 2 Carbon SPD shoes&lt;/a&gt; are 335 gram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="4644" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T08:06:18.257" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T08:06:18.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20522" CreationDate="2014-03-03T15:43:36.860" Score="9" ViewCount="3209" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is time to change my bike's hydraulic disc brakes . Now I have a Hayes Stroker Ryde system , but I want to order a Shimano M395 instead . The question is that I don't know If I have to order the rotors with brakes or not . Both brakes are for 160 mm rotor but they don't look alike . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my hayes brake rotors &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b0r3k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is the rotors of shimano m395&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EK9J3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastActivityDate="2017-07-15T21:54:30.923" Title="Bicycle disc brake rotors" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hayes&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20498" CreationDate="2014-03-03T17:19:04.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all GPS devices are the same... It comes down to the antenna and what it is looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Garmin Edge 500 uses the US GPS satellites&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://support.garmin.com/support/searchSupport/case.faces?caseId=%7Ba3bcf150-1fa1-11e1-73d0-000000000000%7D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Garmin Edge 510 looks for both US (GPS) and Russian (GLONASS) satellites&lt;/a&gt;, typically resulting in a quicker lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with CatEye devices, but my Garmins typically take 20-30 seconds.&#xA;It does take longer to lock if I set it in a window vs outside, the more clear line of sight to most of the sky the quicker it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, for the best results, don't move the device when you turn it on, let it get a good lock before you begin your ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2014-03-03T21:42:33.007" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T21:42:33.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20520" CreationDate="2014-03-03T17:43:44.110" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you existing rotors are in good condition and thicker than 1.6mm (minimum safe thickness) you should have no issue with using them with the Shimanos. There doesn't seem to be an industry standard specification for rotor thickness but it is generally taken to be between 1.8mm - 2.0mm. The new callipers will self adjust to the rotor width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean your existing rotor up with some rubbing alcohol (or similar solvent which doesn't leave a residue) before installing the new brake system to ensure there's no contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T17:43:44.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20516" CreationDate="2014-03-03T19:00:57.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is highly dependent on the market you're in. The most important thing to do is have a bike that fits appropriately. You may want to look at used mountain bikes as well, since you usually get more bang for your buck there (but get the frame and wheels and stuff checked over before you buy, so there are no cracks and unwelcome surprises).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend sticking with a hard tail to begin with (front fork, rear rigid). Wheel size is personal - 26&quot; or 29&quot; are recommended since they are cheaper than 650b, with 26&quot; probably being a bit cheaper than 29&quot;, but this is still preference. Decent disc brakes are a plus (probably hydraulic ones are favorable, but you'll survive with mechanical) but remember for many years people used V brakes or canti's and were alright. There are a variety of budget forks out which are suitable for beginners to go offroad made by companies like SR Suntour primarily (their XC_ lines), and a bit fancier ones made by RockShox, Marzocchi, Fox, etc - a lock out feature is useful if you're also using it on the road. Tire selection is surface dependent. Since its your first bike, you can be a bit cheap with components like derailleur, shifters, etc. (Acera level should be fine), and upgrade things as they break.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T19:00:57.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-03T19:42:22.983" Score="1" ViewCount="1386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found myself to be more of a trail rider than an XC rider and would like to get into downhill. I have a cannondale scalpel 3 and I was wondering if I can make this bike work. Possibly buying the new 130mm lefty supermax or other mods. Or just trade in for a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10458" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T21:28:19.797" Title="Is a cannondale scalpel 3 full suspension capable of trail/ downhill? (100mm Suspension)" Tags="&lt;trails&gt;&lt;xc&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20525" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2014-03-03T20:04:31.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&#xA;    On Stack Exchange, we believe the core moderators should come &lt;i&gt;from&lt;/i&gt; the community, and be elected by the community itself through popular vote. We hold regular elections to determine who these community moderators will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;    Community moderators are &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2009/05/a-theory-of-moderation/&quot;&gt;accorded the highest level of privilege on our community&lt;/a&gt;, and should themselves be exemplars of positive behavior and leaders within the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;    Our general criteria for moderators is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;patient and fair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;leads by example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;shows respect for their fellow community members in their actions and words&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;open to some light but firm moderation to keep the community on track and resolve (hopefully) uncommon disputes and exceptions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;    Every election has three phases:&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Nomination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Primary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Election&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE:&lt;/em&gt; The only way to be nominated is by nominating yourself. The way you do that is by clicking the &quot;Nominate yourself as a Candidate&quot; link below and then answering &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/1296/2018-moderator-election-qa-questionnaire?cb=1&quot;&gt;the questionnaire on Meta&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;    Please participate in the moderator elections by voting, and perhaps even by nominating yourself to be a community moderator!&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/85666/2018-bicycles-moderator-election-chat&quot;&gt;Election chat room&lt;/a&gt; - discuss the election, candidates, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For questions about the election process itself, visit &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.meta.stackexchange.com/tags/election&quot;&gt;Meta&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/1296/2018-moderator-election-qa-questionnaire&quot;&gt;The candidates answer your questions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2018-11-14T19:31:40.897" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T19:31:40.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20542" CreationDate="2014-03-03T21:18:37.517" Score="0" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know one is mechanical (BB7) and the other Hydraulic (Hayes)? but I have both and I need to decide. For a XC use, which would you keep?, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I'm upgrading from V-Brakes (Shimano XT group). So these will be my first Disc-Brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8767" LastEditorUserId="8767" LastEditDate="2014-03-03T21:33:03.030" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T06:35:58.063" Title="Are Avids BB7 superior to the Hayes Stroker Ryde?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-03-13T23:47:39.437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20516" CreationDate="2014-03-03T21:21:51.680" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a Target or Walmart near by I would recommend simply buying a cheap, 250 or so dollar, mountain bike from them.  These are cheap and work great for a couple of years or so depending on how often you like to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10460" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T21:21:51.680" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20524" CreationDate="2014-03-03T21:28:19.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on what you mean by &quot;trail/downhill&quot; and by &quot;work&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't that long ago that a full squish 100mm fork bike was a full on downhill machine. However, the big drawback to that bike as a descender is the relatively steep head angles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting a bigger fork will help with that, but it won't help with the issue of how robust the parts are relative to the use. Lefty forks are meant for XC lightweight&#xA;applications, not for landing 10 ft drops. Putting a slightly longer and more robust fork on that bike will help a lot with feeling in control on descents, but it's still an XC bike and has limitations in how hard you can ride it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends how rugged your trails are and how hard you intend to ride.  If you still want a mostly XC bike that handles descents more effortlessly then a fork upgrade makes sense. However, if you're looking to go beyond that then you really should consider getting a different bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, outside of a terrain park, I don't think there are many trails that couldn't be descended with that bike. It's just a question of how fast, how much fun and how much skill is required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T21:28:19.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5673" CreationDate="2014-03-03T21:40:20.853" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes! Cycling-specific sunglasses are super important. You need frames that stay on your face when you’re in the cycling position so you don’t have to look over the top of your glasses when you’re hunched forward. They also need to be compatible with your helmet as well as have rubber temples and nose grips to prevent them from slipping. Oakley and Rudy Project are two brands that make great cycling glasses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10393" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-02-24T18:25:15.237" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T18:25:15.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-03T21:46:06.533" Score="-4" ViewCount="559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a bicycle to commute probably two days a week to work on and then use sometimes in the evening and on weekends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of scooter or motorcycle even but when I sat on them I didn't really feel any joy. I sat on a high end commuter bike and again - nothing. Then I rode a nice road bike and felt like a kid again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is I don't know exactly which of these is the best bike and shop to buy from. They're all fairly similar price and in the Tiagra line so I guess it comes down to frames, tires and store stuff:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cannondale Synapse 6 Tiagra (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/catalog/product/view/id/31618/s/synapse-6-tiagra/category/916/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;specs&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 year free adjustments and services&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Free tubes for a year, pay labor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10% discount on all accessories at time of purchase plus 30 days after&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HUGE Store with a ton of stuff to choose from for that discount&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Really nice sales guy helping me&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specialized Secteur Elite (Tiagra) (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/secteur/secteur-elite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;specs&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same Store as the Cannondale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bianchi Via Nirone Tiagra Compact (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/road/coast-to-coast/via-nirone-tiagra-compact/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;specs&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5% off bike if paid in cash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10% off all store purchases paid in cash (regardless if I buy the bike there)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very small store. Very little clothing, and only bags are for water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Free adjustments for life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Closest to where I live (about 5 minutes vs 20 minutes for the other 2 shops).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The guy means well but so far hasn't let me actually ride anything, he only had a carbon Tiagra in and told me I should wait and let him order the aluminum instead so it doesn't spoil me... from a sales perspective I would think he'd want to get me out there riding :\&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scott Speedster 30 (Tiagra) (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/products/234119022/SCOTT-Speedster-30-Bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;specs&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifetime adjustments on brakes and derailleurs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any opinion on which of these is the best way to go for a first road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8397" LastEditorUserId="8397" LastEditDate="2014-03-03T23:01:10.210" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T01:56:27.207" Title="Please help me pick one of these bicycles and store benefits" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-03-05T13:54:33.440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20728" CreationDate="2014-03-03T23:03:52.907" Score="3" ViewCount="1088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 48-38-28 chainwheel and I wonder if &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=d808bd8e-537d-481a-a503-eee96e10dfc6&amp;amp;Enum=113&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano 600EX&lt;/a&gt; Arabesque has enough leeway to accommodate it. If you know another derailleur from the same era that could do it that would be also useful to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10462" LastEditorUserId="8918" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T12:17:44.827" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T10:54:21.203" Title="Can Shimano 600 front derailleur handle 3 chain wheels?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20533" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2014-03-03T23:27:21.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to nominate myself for the position of moderator in our current election. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been a member of this community for nearly two years. In that time, I have earned the majority of the moderation badges available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am the most active reviewer on the site. I was the first person on the site to earn the silver &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/help/badges/73/reviewer&quot;&gt;Reviewer badge&lt;/a&gt; and am closing in being the first to earn on a second one. I am also halfway to receiving a gold &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/help/badges/84/steward&quot;&gt;Steward Badge&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2009/05/a-theory-of-moderation/&quot;&gt;A Theory of Moderation&lt;/a&gt; on several different occasions. I believe in and understand the ideals of community moderation espoused by that document. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If elected, I will endeavor to represent the community, taking action only when I knew that action would reflect the views of the community. This means that I would actually review &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; because my votes would be binding. I would leave border cases open to the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am glad to be a part of this community and would be proud to serve as moderator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-03-03T23:27:21.580" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T23:27:21.580" CommentCount="7" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-03-03T23:27:21.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20532" CreationDate="2014-03-04T00:51:29.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually racing front derailleurs like an arabesque will not allow the extra tolerance for a third ring. With that being said, the only way to know for sure is to try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that the spindle length on your bottom bracket affects this as well. While your derailleur may have the extra tolerance to fudge it in some cases, if your spindle is longer than shorter, then it may push your crank too far out for your fd to reach, even with the limit screws taken completely out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try it, just throw the crank and fd on. Take some bare cable and attach to the fd so that you can pull it with your hand. Take the two limit screws all the way out and manually induce pull so that the cage moves all the way out, to check for the large ring. Then just see if letting go all the way will shift back down into the small ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, I'd say it won't work... trust me, I've thought of the same thing before. I always end up finding another 28.6mm clamp fd that was meant to support three rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T00:51:29.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18375" CreationDate="2014-03-04T01:08:21.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this will work. Just get any Shimano mountain rear derailleur... SLX, deore, LX, xt, xtr, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only applies for 9 speed and lower. Here's a quote from Sheldon Brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Within a given brand/style of rear derailer, all &quot;speed numbers&quot; are generally interchangeable. This applies to all indexable models, basically everything manufactured since the late 1980s. There are a few exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception for Shimano&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shimano &quot;Dyna-Sys&quot; 10-speed shifters and derailers use a longer cable pull than other Shimano models, and must be used together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastEditorUserId="8918" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T20:21:54.243" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T20:21:54.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20516" CreationDate="2014-03-04T01:16:43.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forget about chain store big box stuff  - cheap, nasty and comes with no support, They typically ride like pigs, and are usually exceptional heavy.  You get exactly what you pay for  - I won't put by 10 year old on one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheapest is second hand, next cheapest is last years model on 50% mark down. Either way, go visit the LBS's around you and find one that has lots of kids bikes - its a sign they know about tight budgets. They also tend to be keen on the returning customers (kids grow out of bikes really quickly), so tend to give good service despite you not putting downs $1000's on a flash bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not pay sticker price. negotiate.... You will also need things like pump, helmet, spare tube etc. The LBS will also make sure you get the right sized bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are still out of your price, ask if they will check a second hand bike if you bring one in. A few dollars spent doing this and you will end up with a better bike for less money than a chain store bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T01:16:43.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20530" CreationDate="2014-03-04T01:22:57.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can easily add up the $$$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But whatever you spend, what will it cost you when you need help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy from the guy who gives the best service: that's long term value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only judge by how they are behaving now, unless you hear for one of their customers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are happy with one of them, go there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T01:22:57.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20530" CreationDate="2014-03-04T01:39:46.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pick the bike that works best for you - test ride, ask questions, ask other people how the post purchase stuff works. If you don't get a test ride, don't buy.  Just because they all run Tiagra in the back or whatever doesn't mean they're all equally good for you - there are different geometries and what not, so you need to be fitted and know how they work for your purpose. On top of that, just because they all advertise having Tiagra doesn't mean that thats a good thing - remember, when you fix the amount a bike costs, improving one component at a higher cost means something else has to be paid for (such as frame or saddle or wheels or something). Raleigh was making a big deal out of one bike they were selling being equipped with a nice Brooks B17 saddle, but it turned out that the rest of the bike was subpar for the price range, for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All bike shops do a 30 day adjustment normally, so its not the end of the world on the adjustment front (maybe 50 bucks if you don't do things on your own for the first year). Also, chances are you won't need multiple tubes. So all the benefits are pretty much pointless for the bike perspective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I think all these bikes are a bad choice for a commuter - they're all quite pricey and flashy (so they're good targets for thieves) and are race bikes (which aren't really great for things other than racing). They don't have rack or fender mounts, which are useful for commuters and all have tiny tires (when you want fatter tires on a commuter so you get more puncture resistance and cushioning with proper inflation). They aren't also very tough (since they're built to be light, and the Bianchi is equipped with 28 spoke wheels (which may be of decent quality, but low for something that should be tough) and the Scott is even worse. Aero wheels have no place on a commuter, unless your commute is racing), so I doubt they'd escape a minor car hit with a good amount of their dignity left, compared to a good commuter. I'd recommend going with something cheap and discrete for commuting, with bigger tire clearance and rack+fender mounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For road bikes, some cyclocross bikes make good commuters (including some (but not most) race bikes, like the Kona Jake the Snake [admittedly, this isn't discrete...], but also the wide variety of &quot;commuter-cross&quot; bikes, like the Trek Crossrip, Specialized Tricross, Surly Crosscheck, etc.) as well as a lot of touring bikes (Surly Long Haul Trucker, Jamis Aurora, Trek 520, etc.) for their more relaxed riding position as well as mounts for pretty much everything. Flat bar road bikes also work (Specialized Sirrus / Trek 7.3fx type things). Some people just make commuter bikes as well (Charge Plug is one example sold at Performance). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old rigid mountain bikes are also great commuters (think 80s-90s Specialized Rockhopper/Hardrock). Nobody's going to steal them, you can run decent sized tires, they're bombproof and have mounts for everything that you could want (racks + fenders and enough clearance for panniers if thats your sort of thing). I personally use a 2003 Giant Boulder for anything under 20 miles. It has a rack, some Specialized saddle that fit me well and a nice set of Ergon grips, which make it perfectly comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure you budget for accessories (helmet, lock and lights primarily), as they're necessary for commuting. And make sure these bikes can take your weight properly - usually riders in the rider+cargo at ~250 lbs bracket should look for something decently tougher than these bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T01:56:27.207" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T01:56:27.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5673" CreationDate="2014-03-04T02:34:05.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my money, I can't go past &lt;strong&gt;Serengeti&lt;/strong&gt; sunglasses. They're not a very popular brand, but in my opinion they are &lt;strong&gt;the BEST&lt;/strong&gt; the only other brand in contention is Ray-bands. My pilot brother put me on to them - apparently all the pilots wear them - they're that good. I bought some 6 years ago for motorbiking and I would highly, highly recommend them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cycling: Serengeti Maestrale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mTCG9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Serengeti Maestrale&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They wrap nicely. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have photochromatic lens - increasing definition &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have a nice tint. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get them polarised. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't look bad at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can pick them up at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.opticsplanet.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.opticsplanet.com&lt;/a&gt; for under $US100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not an agent of Serengeti or OpticsPlanet, I just love them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10397" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T02:34:05.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-04T04:15:44.700" Score="4" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't like the amount of handlebar drop on my current road bike. I am looking at a new bike that has an additional 1.2cm of frame stack (height). Would this 1.2cm make much difference in the ride of the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10467" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T14:59:52.700" Title="Does 1.2cm of additional frame stack make a large difference to the ride of a bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20540" CreationDate="2014-03-04T06:34:27.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure! Especially on the long distances.&#xA;If you have a bike a little big or small for your stature, you can try to adjust the seat or you can also try a stem of the handlebar with a different lenght&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10468" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T06:34:27.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20526" CreationDate="2014-03-04T06:35:58.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mattnz hinted at in the related question, not all hydraulic brakes are necessarily going to perform better than cable brakes, and it looks like you've hit that nail on the head with this comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Stroker Rydes are well known to be painfully poor quality. You would have absolutely no reason not to choose the BB7s in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T06:35:58.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8781" CreationDate="2014-03-04T10:42:54.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll just add some points no-one's mentioned yet: if you're riding in urban areas your lights are mostly not for &lt;em&gt;seeing&lt;/em&gt; with but to &lt;em&gt;be seen&lt;/em&gt; by cars and other traffic. So a light that makes &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; visible is what you need. Generally you want this light to be pointed straight out, parallel to the ground so that it can be seen for as far as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advantages of a helmet light in this situation: you can point it at&#xA;the dodgy looking driver who looks like they might pull across in&#xA;front of you, or down on the ground when there's rough stuff on the&#xA;road, or away from oncoming bikes on the bike path.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disadvantage: if you're not looking forward - say you're shoulder checking - then you&#xA;have no front light.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another disadvantage of helmet mounted lights generally is that they can get snagged on stuff. Many of them are connected quite strongly to the helmet, and if you hit a low branch they're going to jerk your head back, which puts you at risk of neck injuries at least. In an urban setting they increase the risk of injury if you come off, not only because they get caught on things, but because they could also end up being mashed into the helmet and your head. I've had helmet lights before that I've made myself, and they all were mounted on with velcro, which is enough to keep them in place, but will separate with minimal force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastEditorUserId="896" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T01:50:39.257" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T01:50:39.257" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-04T10:57:05.603" Score="2" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikes-n-gear.com/city-urban/scott-sub-sport-10-men-2014.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scott SUB 2014&lt;/a&gt; as a potential candidate for my cycle to Paris (approx 90 miles) and a cycle across the South Downs this summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having such different terrains, I was wondering if anyone has any insight as to the quality of Scott bikes (never owned one before) and suggestions as to if you think this bike would be fit for purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would love to hear your thoughts, full spec can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/global/en/bikefinder/category/CityUrban/CityStreets/undefined/234167&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10470" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T22:58:07.813" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T12:38:30.360" Title="Advice on buying a SCOTT SUB Sport 10 2014" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-03-13T23:48:20.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20540" CreationDate="2014-03-04T13:31:16.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small changes can certainly make a big difference... but it may not or there may be other things you can change. As such, buying a new bike to make this sort of adjustment seems like overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can swap the stem, handlebars, add spacers, adjust the angle of the handlebar,  and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T13:31:16.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20545" CreationDate="2014-03-04T14:41:11.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scott is a fine brand. The most important thing is how it rides and fits for you (this is a highly personal decision on your end). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 90 mile ride though, you may want something with drops (with a relaxed geometry - something like a Trek 520 wouldn't be bad for this purpose, for example) or a flat bar with bar ends or a trekking bar or something for multiple hand positions if you're taking the 90 miles in essentially 1 or 2 shots. However, I'm not familiar with the particular European terrain, so I'll defer to the Europeans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T14:41:11.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20540" CreationDate="2014-03-04T14:59:52.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My own personal experience is that small changes can make a big difference, but you should be able to get the bars 1.2 cm higher a lot cheaper than a new frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that the most critical measurement in a frame is the Effective Top Tube. If that is &quot;right&quot; for you then with enough bodging you can get the handlebars in the right place. For a road bike that means a stem in roughly the &#xA;90-120cm range for most people. If you aren't over 6 feet and you find you need a stem outside that range, then I would seriously consider a new frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is to spend some time and money on the current bike to find out where the right place is. You might end up with an ugly heavy bodge based on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FGYKWS&quot;&gt;stem extender&lt;/a&gt;, but then you will know exactly what you need in the next bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stem extender works, then you might just need a new fork with an uncut steerer so you can get the stack height you want. Forks with carbon steerers have a stack height limit, but even there most bikes come out of the shop with the steerer cut at the minimum rather than the maximum. ( Because it looks better on the shop room floor that way... )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T14:59:52.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20550" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-03-04T23:37:09.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/freewheel&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;freewheel&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;freewheel&lt;/a&gt; together with its associated &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/gears&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;gears&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;gears&lt;/a&gt; is referred to as a &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/cluster&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cluster&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;cluster&lt;/a&gt;.  The &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/freewheel&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;freewheel&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;freewheel&lt;/a&gt; serves the same purpose as a &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/freehub&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;freehub&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;freehub&lt;/a&gt; although they are mechanically different and cannot be readily interchanged.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A discussion of the difference between a &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/freewheel&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;freewheel&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;freewheel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/freehub&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;freehub&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;freehub&lt;/a&gt; can be found on Sheldon Brown's website:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Traditional Thread-on Freewheels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cogset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cogset&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3021" LastEditorUserId="3021" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T00:55:11.223" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T00:55:11.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20551" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-03-04T23:37:09.850" Score="0" Body="The freewheel is a ratcheting mechanism, that coupled with a set of gears, is that threaded onto the rear hub of a bike.  The freewheel allows the rear wheel to engage and move when the pedals are spun forward, but coast freely when the pedals are stationary or spun backwards.  " OwnerUserId="3021" LastEditorUserId="3021" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T00:36:05.313" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T00:36:05.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20554" CreationDate="2014-03-05T09:13:48.380" Score="4" ViewCount="2643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Runkeeper for years to track my cycling activities with my Smart phone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently bought a pulse watch Suunto Ambit 2 that stores activities in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.movescount.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Movescount portal&lt;/a&gt; when the watch is docked, and my question now is if there as a easy way to record activities with the watch and then synchronize or push them to both Movescount and Runkeeper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8982" LastEditorUserId="8982" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T13:47:42.633" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T12:18:11.197" Title="Is there a way to syncronize cycling activities from Movescount to Runkeeper or vice versa?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;software&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20553" CreationDate="2014-03-05T11:51:59.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;https://tapiriik.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://tapiriik.com/&lt;/a&gt; but it does not have Movescout support yet. There is voting page for new services: &lt;a href=&quot;https://tapiriik.com/supported-services-poll&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://tapiriik.com/supported-services-poll&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T11:51:59.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20545" CreationDate="2014-03-05T12:38:30.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that bike would make a good choice if buying new. It is towards the higher end of the price scale for hybrids and you would be getting some quality Shimano parts for your money. I think it would be possible to spend less money and get just as suitable a bike, if you have another reason for liking the Scott (perhaps its looks or future use) then I'd say go for it. Otherwise, have a bit more of a dig around and compare as many manufacturers and models as you can, you may be able to save a few hundred pounds which could be spent on a helmet, some cycle-specific clothing (not necessarily lycra!), a decent lock or other accessories. Regardless, the Scott seems to be a quality bicycle from a respected manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be set up for road and light off-road, sold as a rough tourer or &quot;expedition&quot; ride. The South Downs Way is very hilly, with many short sharp inclines whilst the road to Paris (from Calais or Dieppe) is relatively flat. The road surfaces are very different too, the South Downs Way being rocky with patches of loose chalk and few paved roads of any distance whilst the road to Paris is paved or tow-path style. If I were using this bike I would get a set of larger, more knobbly tyres to cope with off-road duties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect you to have little trouble completing your ride to Paris in one day, it will certainly be an effort if you're not used to distance riding. In comparison, I would expect only a very hardy cyclist on a dedicated MTB to complete a similar distance on the South Downs Way in that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10479" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T12:38:30.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20560" CreationDate="2014-03-05T13:13:37.063" Score="3" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some tracking apps for Windows phone which use OpenStreet Maps or Google Maps?&#xA;My location (Minsk, Belarus) is a white spot on HERE Nokia maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10480" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T14:09:36.923" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T15:55:54.583" Title="Rides tracking app for windows phone" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;maps&gt;&lt;performance-tracking&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20439" CreationDate="2014-03-05T13:23:51.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magura hydraulic rim brakes are a quality product. They still make these and many of the older models are sought-after in the retro mountain bike scene. They are durable and perform very well. From your pictures it seems you have direct mounts on your frame specifically for these brakes, this is now most common on trials bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake pad fitting is the same throughout the range, many 3rd party manufacturers produce replacement pads for these brakes and they're no more expensive than other brake pads. Kool Stop, Kashimax and many others are widely available. Google for &quot;Magura Rim Brake Pads&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To remove the pads, remove the wheel and pull them out of the holder. To replace, just push them into the holder. It's that simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may also benefit from being bled and having the fluid replaced. Bleeding and re-filling sounds daunting but it is possible to do at home and the kit is usually inexpensive. Youtube has many videos detailing the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, these are good brakes and barring mechanical failure, they should provide you with many more miles of trouble-free usage and good performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10479" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T13:23:51.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20557" CreationDate="2014-03-05T15:15:00.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Windows_Phone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Windows Phones + Open street map&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know strava requires installation of the googlemaps app to function, but they don't make anything for windows. If you want to use their service of comparing against different users, you can upload data from another app as long as its the right format (which should be possible with any of those open street map apps for windows ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8970" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T15:15:00.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20557" CreationDate="2014-03-05T15:53:31.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a few apps that should be able to use open street map and record GPS tracks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple OSM&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.windowsphone.com/en-us/store/app/simple-osm/9710865b-2c38-e011-854c-00237de2db9e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.windowsphone.com/en-us/store/app/simple-osm/9710865b-2c38-e011-854c-00237de2db9e&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GPX Travel Map&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.windowsphone.com/en-us/store/app/gpx-travel-map/13a79a34-c283-4f5c-b3fb-4d02e3f4f43a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.windowsphone.com/en-us/store/app/gpx-travel-map/13a79a34-c283-4f5c-b3fb-4d02e3f4f43a&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Navi Computer&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.windowsphone.com/en-us/store/app/navicomputer/26425685-6381-4767-b3b8-bb0448c2cb69&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.windowsphone.com/en-us/store/app/navicomputer/26425685-6381-4767-b3b8-bb0448c2cb69&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try searching the app store for 'OpenStreetMap' and there are many other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T15:53:31.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20557" CreationDate="2014-03-05T15:55:54.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several that you can try, many of which are &lt;a href=&quot;https://strava.zendesk.com/entries/26589945&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;listed here&lt;/a&gt;. Should that link go down, here's the apps listed at that page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;CycloMeter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycle Tracks GPS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the Map&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T15:55:54.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4214" CreationDate="2014-03-05T16:25:18.940" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any brake design can give all the stopping power you need.  It all comes down to efficiency and mechanical advantage.  There is the issue of predictability.  The thing that doomed the old Campagnolo Delta brakes was their lack of feel and predictability.  Braking into a corner on a road bike you need to be able to decelerate as quickly without locking up.  On mountain bikes we often intentionally skid the rear wheel to get the bike around.  I tend to finess road bike brakes but toggle mountain bike brakes between on and off.  Personally I find modern dual pivots to be harder to modulate than the old single pivots but that is probably because I have many more miles on single pivots.  In any case, rim bikes on bicycles are long outlived their usefulness.  All serious mountain bikes have disk brakes and I'd wager that within a few years all serious road bikes will have disk brakes as well.  Disk brakes are better in every way than rim brakes.  More power, better control, less maintenance (for good ones anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10482" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T16:25:18.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20587" CreationDate="2014-03-05T16:38:18.040" Score="10" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've had an unusually wet winter and flooding has been a problem in my area. Now that the weather has improved and cycling is possible/pleasurable again I'm finding I'm getting many more punctures than I would normally. The kids too, on their bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just a run of bad luck or is there a connection with the wet winter? Has the flooding washed more debris onto the road? Perhaps this is a well known problem but I haven't noticed it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1033" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T10:58:54.830" Title="Are bikes more prone to punctures after a spell of rainfall/flooding?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4214" CreationDate="2014-03-05T16:56:23.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, the latest fashion in road bike building do use the V-brakes mostly for aerodynamic reasons.&#xA;For example &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/07/04/2012-ridley-noah-fb-closeup-look-at-integrated-brakes-new-aero-features/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/07/04/2012-ridley-noah-fb-closeup-look-at-integrated-brakes-new-aero-features/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://m.triradar.com/news/giant-propel-advanced-sl-aero-road-bike?ns_campaign=mobile-yml&amp;amp;ns_mchannel=mobile-site&amp;amp;ns_source=triathlon&amp;amp;ns_linkname=0&amp;amp;ns_fee=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://m.triradar.com/news/giant-propel-advanced-sl-aero-road-bike?ns_campaign=mobile-yml&amp;amp;ns_mchannel=mobile-site&amp;amp;ns_source=triathlon&amp;amp;ns_linkname=0&amp;amp;ns_fee=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/new-bike-gear-previews/new-integrated-speedcontrol-slr-brakes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/new-bike-gear-previews/new-integrated-speedcontrol-slr-brakes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2013/02/bikes-of-the-bunch-ridley-noah-fast-2013/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2013/02/bikes-of-the-bunch-ridley-noah-fast-2013/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T16:56:23.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20573" CreationDate="2014-03-05T17:24:52.607" Score="7" ViewCount="2112" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently there have been an increase in the number of fixed gear bikes in my (U.S.) city.  Increasingly they tend to have one or zero brake levers, justified by their ability to stop with pedal power alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even more recently, I've noticed even larger numbers of single speed (non-fixed gear) bikes  --- outnumbering the fixed gear bikes.  And they often have only a single brake lever (for simplicity or fashion?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the justification for having only a single brake on the fixed gear bikes because their braking redundancy lies within the drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not understand why this is acceptable on single speed bikes.  Is there something I am missing or is that indeed ridiculously dangerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are manufacturers allowed to sell bicycles with non-redundant brakes?  Is this regulated in the U.S. or anywhere else? This seems like a recipe for disaster (having experienced brake failure on my bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7299" LastEditorUserId="3021" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T20:14:26.773" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T14:15:30.597" Title="Regulations regarding Braking redundancy on single speed bikes." Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20563" CreationDate="2014-03-05T17:31:28.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's because the rain washes more debris onto the road which can then cause punctures. The wet tyres are also easier to damage (couldn't find out why but I guess because it softens the rubber)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: Bicycle by Helen Pidd&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10484" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T17:31:28.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20570" CreationDate="2014-03-05T17:46:45.163" Score="2" ViewCount="961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just looking at the new On One Codeine full suss mountain bike and 45650B hardtail (£2599 vs £899) respectively. However, what is the great difference apart from the shock? A fox rear shock goes for about £300 max. What causes the giant price difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T09:31:23.790" Title="Why do full suspension bikes seem to be on average £1000 more expensive than hardtails?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20566" CreationDate="2014-03-05T17:51:05.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interestingly enough, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/pubs/cycling-guide/section5.0.shtml&quot;&gt;Ontario&lt;/a&gt; you technically are only required to have 1 brake, and as far as it states on the MTO site, it must be on the rear wheel.  I couldn't find any reliable information about whether a fixed gear drive train qualifies as a rear wheel braking system.  It does fit the criteria of &lt;code&gt;When you put on the brakes, you should be able to skid on dry, level pavement&lt;/code&gt;, providing you have strong enough legs and the right gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think only requiring 1 brake is done so that you can have children's bikes with only a coaster brake.  Of course you could have a coaster brake and a front hand brake, but most kids lack the hand strength to use them anyway, so they turn out to be pointless.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my fixie I have both front and rear brakes. The gearing is high enough that I don't feel that I can stop the bike in a short enough distance without brakes.  I would recommend that you have at least 1 brake, for redundancies sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T17:51:05.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20568" CreationDate="2014-03-05T18:41:08.450" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you are matching like for like and actually the price differential is quite small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only fair way to compare two bikes is by looking at the frame only price. In this case I've been unable to find the frame only price for the Codeine (SingleTrack forum suggested £599 with Monarch R vs £225 for 456) so have used Santa Cruz instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame only price for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hardtail &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en/us/highball-alloy#builder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Highball&lt;/a&gt; is $750USD RRP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The full suspension &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en/us/superlight-29-alloy#builder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Superlight 29&lt;/a&gt; is $1,099USD RRP with a Fox CTD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are XC bikes, 29&quot; and alloy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the price difference between the two bikes is $349, this would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the shock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the pivot bearings bolts etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;additional welds for the FS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;additional strengthening for the FS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more complex manufacturing of the pivots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;additional design costs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other factors that influence the price of a complete bike that may explain the difference between the 456 and the Codeine. The £899 45650B is an intermediate level specification whilst everything I have seen on the Codeine indicate it will have a high performance build. The differences from what I've seen include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the 45650B has a Deore groupset, a XT or X9 groupset would be £300 cheaper but the Codeine prototype had an XX1 groupset which would be at least £500 more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Codeine may come with a dropper post which would be £200 more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the 45650B has a Sektor fork vs the Revelation on the Codeine which would be £100 - £200&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing the two bikes side by side there would be more examples where the specification levels are different and would justify additional costs (brakes, wheels, tyres, bars, saddle etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T09:31:23.790" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T09:31:23.790" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20568" CreationDate="2014-03-05T18:48:42.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of variables to consider here, you can't really compare two bikes and declare that all full suspension bikes are £1000 more. That's like comparing apples to oranges, every model of bike is unique and comes with different components. Components are going to account for big ranges in price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, generally, full suspension frames are more complex, require more parts, and are more costly to design and manufacture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/article/frames-mountain-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeexchange.com.au/article/frames-mountain-bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2yqe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hard tail&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ry0iE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;full suspension&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T18:48:42.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20474" CreationDate="2014-03-05T19:02:59.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a very cold, very windy place, and I ride all year.  In my experience, wind chill as provided by weather reports is not very useful when biking, because it assumes you're stationary (or walking).  It's much more useful to know the temperature and the wind speed and direction, and have some experience to judge what that means to you.  If the wind is 15 MPH, but you're going to be traveling directly with it or against it, then the wind chill as quoted by the weather report is not going to mean much, is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, dress such that there is a minimum of exposed skin.  The wind is far less of a factor when you have a good windproof outer layer, after which you can focus on the air temperature.  This winter I tried using a raincoat as my outer layer, and it has been remarkably effective because it completely blocks the wind even though it is not insulating at all.  Wear whatever sorts of googles, hats, balaclava, etc. to block the wind but still be able to see and breathe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, wear layers so you can adjust how much insulation you have.  With experience, you will just pick the right layers for the ride and weather.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's going to be windy (maybe like 20+ MPH, where I live it's almost always at least 10 MPH), I'll think about an extra layer, the warmer gloves, etc.  One thing that the wind definitely influences is my choice of eyewear.  If it's really windy and/or really cold, I'll wear ski goggles, otherwise maybe I'll just wear sunglasses or nothing.  Of course it's easy to just bring such things along no matter what, and use them if necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5683" LastEditorUserId="5683" LastEditDate="2014-03-12T02:38:00.270" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T02:38:00.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20566" CreationDate="2014-03-05T19:13:45.440" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you're not missing something, it is unsafe to have less than two brakes. If you only have one brake and it fails, you're going to have a bad time. Mostly, it's just cool to have one brake, or even zero lever brakes on your fixie. This style is probably just bleeding over into single speed bikes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The law in most states here in the U.S. only requires you to have one brake, and even still there are some rebellious people that challenge how the law defines a brake and how many you should have. There have been court cases in my town that have tried to define whether or not a fixed gear system counts as the one brake, but the judge usually wins these arguments. Many European countries require road-going bikes to have a brake on each wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.solebicycles.com/&quot;&gt;Manufacturers&lt;/a&gt; that sell bikes with only one brake could very well be at risk of being entangled in a legal battle if someone is injured when that one brake fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T22:14:22.110" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T22:14:22.110" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20566" CreationDate="2014-03-05T19:26:54.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike regulations are typically regional things in the US (and I suspect in other countries as well). Also, it is hard if not impossible to enforce these regulations on bikes (and are typically far less serious than car / truck enforcement), since its trivial to take the brake levers and what not off at home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my perspective, it is indeed ridiculously dangerous - even on a fixie, your legs may be too weak to stop using just the drive train, or you may need to do an emergency stop which would be quicker if you used another brake like a front brake or just run out of skill one day. With a single speed non-fixie (i.e. freewheeling is allowed), you don't have a way to stop other than your feet (or face) if you don't have at least one brake. On a fixie however, the resisting of pedaling does make a rear brake considerably less useful than a front brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the requirement of only a rear brake, the front brake is often viewed as a dangerous brake by most people who haven't cycled a decent amount, because they believe it will lock up the front wheel automatically and send you flying over the handlebars. Hence, the requirement being on the rear. The fact that it works for little kids bikes with coaster brakes as well is mostly a convenience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing is that it looks &quot;cool&quot; to have no brakes, ride your bike with no handlebars, etc. If they plow into someone else or hurt themselves because of it, its not really skin off my back (much like if they get hit by cars for riding at night with only reflectors). Theres only so much you can do to protect people from themselves, especially with something that can be so easily tweaked at home like a bicycle for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for people manufacturing bikes (for road use) with only one brake, I think bikesdirect sells some that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only bikes which should have no brakes on them are possibly those used in a velodrome (i.e. track bicycles which are actually used ONLY on a track). [Here, it is actually dangerous to have brakes.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T19:35:33.023" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T19:35:33.023" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-06T02:05:28.373" Score="1" ViewCount="1417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought a new bicycle and the left Shimano Revo shifter (3 speed) is not shifting, what can I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10487" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T14:13:23.047" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:19:45.883" Title="Shimano Revo shifter does not shift" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-03-13T23:47:31.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20568" CreationDate="2014-03-06T06:53:04.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A full suspension frame is in all respects more complex (thus expensive) because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it has a shock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it has pivots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it has extra parts (e.g shock rocker)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it sometimes has carbon chainstays&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it sometimes has internal cable routing ports to deal with moving cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it cannot aford to we heavy, so it has to be as light as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it needs to withstand lateral flex&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it has a lot of technology and r&amp;amp;d in order to&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sometimes custom tune the shock for the specific leverage ratio of the frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;address pedaling bob&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increase pedaling efficiency&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minimize brake jack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;provide easy maintenance features (pivot grease ports, bushings vs bearings etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;properly place the water bottle (some frames don't have room for one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it aims customers who are willing to pay more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sometimes companies have to pay for the linkage design to the patent owner. For example frames with &quot;Split Pivot rear suspension&quot; (e.g &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.devinci.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.devinci.com/&lt;/a&gt;) pay money to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/interview-dave-weagle-suspension-designer-37738/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mr Dave Weagle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T07:00:34.620" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T07:00:34.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20566" CreationDate="2014-03-06T08:44:05.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, bikes operated on public roads must have two independent braking systems, one for each wheel, in &quot;efficient working order&quot;. Fixed gearing counts as a braking system, so a fixie is only required to have a front brake, but a single-speed with only one brake (or a bike with only a rear coaster brake) would not meet the &lt;a href=&quot;http://ukcyclerules.com/2011/05/04/the-rules-of-bike-brakes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;regulations&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10492" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T14:15:30.597" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T14:15:30.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-06T08:50:53.490" Score="3" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of a frame-bag over panniers? I need one for a bike-packing trip (any good value recomendations welcome). I've used panniers in the past but I've seen a lot of framebags about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nxJyr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bicycle frame-bag&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T09:56:25.793" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T09:59:46.950" Title="Framebag vs Panniers - Pros and Cons" Tags="&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20583" CreationDate="2014-03-06T08:53:39.563" Score="13" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need some new sunglasses for cycling - what features will actually be helpful - I've seen ones with vents, polarized lens, rubberised frame, replaceable lens . I just need the best value model that looks good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T12:13:50.403" Title="Sunglasses for cycling - what features to look for?" Tags="&lt;sun-protection&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20566" CreationDate="2014-03-06T09:21:59.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;the Netherlands&lt;/strong&gt;, a very common type of bike is single speed with just a coaster brake. I haven't looked up the law regarding bike brakes, but it is common enough that I can't imagine it being illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having looked it up, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wetten.overheid.nl/BWBR0025798/Hoofdstuk5/Afdeling9/8/Artikel5938/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the law states&lt;/a&gt; (in Dutch) that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Bikes should have a properly functioning brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Bikes with nothing but rim brakes have to have two properly functioning separate brakes, that brake both wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes on to say that this is to be inspected visually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10493" LastEditorUserId="10493" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T12:09:13.483" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T12:09:13.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20578" CreationDate="2014-03-06T09:59:46.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the image above is correct, the frame-bag is great if all you're carrying is a credit card and a puncture repair kit. It's light, cheap, unobtrusive and doesn't add much air resistance. But if you're carrying even a rain jacket, it'll be hard to find a frame bag big enough. The frame-bag is not waterproof either, so it would be best not to carry a phone or cash in it (unless your currency is plastic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you found a big frame bag, the capacity is limited by your frame size and the width you can fit between your knees as you ride. So a triangle perhaps 500mm on a side and 100mm thick (it will overhang the bottom bracket a little, but most cranks allow that). Call it 12 litres. Bigger than a handlebar bag, but not by much. That's enough for a change of clothes and lunch if you choose wisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of panniers is they come in a range of sizes, from much bigger than a frame-bag to really quite large. You can find waterproof panniers as well as back-pack converting ones, front and rear panniers, and multi-compartment panniers. The disadvantages are that they're big, obvious, expensive, heavy and require racks on the bike as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People carry ridiculous amounts of gear in, on, and around panniers. I've toured with people who had 80kg/150 litres of stuff on their bikes, and I've toured with four 60 litre panniers on my bike. There are limits to what you can get into panniers, but compared to the 12 litres in a frame bag the real limit is how much weight you can deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T09:59:46.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20579" CreationDate="2014-03-06T10:40:14.550" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely something plastic, as that's going to be both safer and lighter than glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look for something that was polarizing, as that will reduce glare, and something that offers UV protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also should be aware that different colour lenses suit different light conditions, so you might need to make a decision based upon when you normally ride. I note that you live in London - I'm in the UK too and given our frequently poor light conditions, for the majority of the year I ride with clear (but high contrast) lenses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.s382408628.onlinehome.fr/bolle/media/pdf/lens_references_ENG.pdf&quot;&gt;colour chart&lt;/a&gt; I found a couple of years ago, to give you an idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for replaceable lenses, they're a great idea but make sure you have an idea of the costs involved first. I got some glasses a couple of years ago and found that the cost of the spare lenses was disproportionate to the cost of the glasses themselves. (But still cheaper than 2 pairs of glasses.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing would be fit. You don't want them moving around as you cycle - I made the mistake once of buying some nice glasses mail order, when they arrived they were too loose on my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, if you come the the same conclusion as I did about using clear lenses, consider safety glasses such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bolle-Axis-AXCONT-Safety-Glasses-Contrast-/181048410128?pt=UK_BOI_ProtectiveGear_RL&amp;amp;hash=item2a27538010&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. They hit the same quality standards as bike glasses but are a fraction of the price. They are more fragile than cycling glasses but if I go through three pairs a year, its still cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, how much do you want to spend? The pros seem to ride Oakley Radarlocks at the moment but, for what they are, the price is staggering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T10:40:14.550" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-06T10:57:08.927" Score="3" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a &lt;em&gt;Carrera Velos&lt;/em&gt; from Halfords and when riding at speed there was a very noticable thud everytime the wheel rotated over a certain spot with brakes applied.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking at the seam, where the rim is welded, it is not aligned and shreds the crap out of my brake pads. So I took it back to Halfords who said that's what I get for my money, so I've switched for a newer model which came out a few days after I got the new bike. Same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Halfords are saying it's the manufacturers fault (tough luck basically). So do I have a new faulty bike, buy at my expense new rims because they won't replace them or refund?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10495" LastEditorUserId="10493" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T12:46:15.180" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T11:41:32.423" Title="Wheel rim problem" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20603" CreationDate="2014-03-06T11:16:44.697" Score="3" ViewCount="3726" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any feasible solar chargers for iPhone / or with a usb slot that will work or is a backup battery available. Best value (and something that works) is my priority. I found this brilliant link on crazy guy on a bike- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?doc_id=9258&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?doc_id=9258&lt;/a&gt; However, since then I came accross 'portopow' &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.portablepowersupplies.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.portablepowersupplies.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt; - which look great but I can barely find any reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T23:42:25.563" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T23:42:25.563" Title="Solar charger for iPhone whilst on a bike tour - is it worth it?" Tags="&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-03-17T00:59:13.277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20584" CreationDate="2014-03-06T12:14:57.630" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Halfords admits it's the manufacturer's fault, they should either replace or refund it, since you bought it from them, not from the manufacturer. They are the intermediary between you and the manufacturer, so they should handle all problems due to the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10493" LastEditorUserId="10493" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T11:41:32.423" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T11:41:32.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20563" CreationDate="2014-03-06T12:23:46.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the tires are wet the debris sticks to it. A lot gets thrown off as the wheel rotates but any that is sharp and that survives one turn of the wheel gets hammered in when it hits the road. As @mattnz said, the water also lubricates the sharp object as it goes in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In another answer, I have recommended to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/19061/anti-puncture-options/19069#19069&quot;&gt;brush your tires&lt;/a&gt;, but that it not really feasible in the wet because the debris is mostly invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T12:23:46.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20579" CreationDate="2014-03-06T13:48:15.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer yellow lenses to clear, for night riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important aspect of fit is if they are too tight a seal around your cheekbones then they will tend to fog. I was very annoyed when Serfas changed their Hunter lens shape without renaming. When I bought a second pair online the new lenses come further down my face and make enough of a seal that the lens fogs until I have some airflow. This is a safety issue - if I'm riding hard in cold weather and stop at lights I have to lift my glasses to see clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in Perth, Western Australia, I use a rose lens for the part of the year where I'm riding in mixed light in the morning. I dislike changing lenses frequently so have used two pairs of glasses in the past - keeping my yellow ones for night or early-morning commute and a much darker pair for afternoon ride home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1815" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T13:48:15.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20585" CreationDate="2014-03-06T14:10:28.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goalzero.com/portable-solar-panels/index.html?gclid=CNC41M2K_rwCFY0-MgodCXsAbg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GoalZero&lt;/a&gt;, they make a bunch of portable solar products. While it's a little bit pricy they are quality products that will last. My buddy uses one when we are gone racing and have no access to electricity, and it works quite well for phones and other small electronics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen, but don't really know much about, people putting these on their hydration pack while they ride (just don't crash).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T14:10:28.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20553" CreationDate="2014-03-06T14:14:48.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Moveslink software that manages to download stuff from your watch and uploads it to Movescount also keeps a backup of the files on your computer. Unfortunately this is some &lt;code&gt;xml&lt;/code&gt; file which is not necessarily directly compatible to other platforms. But there's help! Some nice guy wrote &lt;a href=&quot;https://code.google.com/p/ambit2gpx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ambit2gpx&lt;/a&gt;, a tool that converts the Suunto style &lt;code&gt;xml&lt;/code&gt; file to a &lt;code&gt;gpx&lt;/code&gt; file that should be readable by most online services or training software suites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you convert the files with that tool you should be able to upload them to Runkeeper as well, even without having to upload them to Movescount before (if you don't like to do that for some reason), as Moveslink will store the files from your watch locally even if it cannot upload them to Movescount for whatever reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But unfortunately there does not seem to be some easy and automated way to do this yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T14:14:48.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29421" CreationDate="2014-03-06T14:35:52.267" Score="35" ViewCount="29268" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3f/Dsb-2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shaft driven bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ridden a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaft-driven_bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;shaft driven bike&lt;/a&gt; once, when biking in deserted mines in Limburg.&lt;sup&gt;&amp;Dagger;&lt;/sup&gt; They used shaft driven bikes because the mines are damp, and a shaft can be enclosed completely, protecting it against the moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the clean look of a shaft driven bike, as opposed to a chain driven bike. So I'm interested in getting one. But I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://velomobileseminar2012.blogspot.nl/2011/10/cardanaandrijving-slechte-keus-voor-een.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;some information&lt;/a&gt; (Dutch) that hints at a shaft being a bad choice for a drive train, due to high wear on the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K3A2W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bicycle shaft drive&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with riding shaft driven bikes? Is the wear on the gears that bad? Are there any other issues I need to be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&amp;Dagger; An experience I can recommend to everyone. With a dynamo fed headlamp, if you stop, it's pitch black all around you.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;I used the term &quot;cardan shaft&quot; in an earlier revision of this question, but I think now that use was incorrect. A cardan shaft seems to be a shaft that transfers rotation at an angle, using two universal joints. Drive shafts in bikes usually use gears.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&quot;Cardan&quot; however, is not a brand name.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10493" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.463" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T03:26:49.713" Title="Any experience with shaft driven bikes?" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;shaft&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20609" CreationDate="2014-03-06T15:42:39.863" Score="8" ViewCount="14117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Muji utility bicycle with a 3-speed internal gear hub which I got second hand around 5 years ago. The LBS which I bought the bike from has since closed down and I haven't managed to find another bike shop which does maintenance on this kind of bike (the last one I visited just told me if my bike broke down I should get a new one). I was wondering how complicated it would be to do maintenance by myself and if anyone has experience with internal gear hubs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10481" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T11:10:39.983" Title="Internal gear hub maintenance" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20604" CreationDate="2014-03-06T15:54:30.483" Score="4" ViewCount="4307" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Psf7Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;my handlebar stem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to decrease the reach of my handlebars.&#xA;Does it matter whether I increase the height or get a stem with a smaller length(extension?) on my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And is there any way to calculate the relation between the two? Something like, a 1 cm increase in height is equivalent to a 1.5 cm increase in length?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background : I have an old single bolt handlebar stem(see image) with it's minimum insertion not visible(if it ever had one). When I raised it enough for it to be somewhat comfortable it started creaking every time I put power while pedaling or while climbing off the saddle.&#xA;I have another similar stem that is slightly more than 1 cm longer but has it's minimum insertion about 3 cm higher than what the current one does not creak at. I want to know whether it will really reduce the distance I have to extend forward. Yes seems to be the intuitive answer but I really want to know for sure because these are a big bother taking off and putting on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : The handlebars I mention are drops on a road bike.&lt;br&gt;The horizontal portion is parallel to the ground&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3062" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T10:40:59.280" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T10:40:59.280" Title="Handlebar stem : height vs length" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20595" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-03-06T17:03:37.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Travelling is to go, move, or journey through or across an area, region, etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7116" LastEditorUserId="7116" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T18:56:43.900" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T18:56:43.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20596" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-03-06T17:03:37.557" Score="0" Body="to journey or traverse" OwnerUserId="7116" LastEditorUserId="7116" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T18:55:57.293" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T18:55:57.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20579" CreationDate="2014-03-06T17:15:04.543" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To avoid the color choice predicament, I always look for cycling glasses with interchangeable lenses! Then, one pair can be clear, yellow, or gray (or rose!). I have had great luck with Smith Optics glasses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10497" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T17:15:04.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20585" CreationDate="2014-03-06T17:29:09.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To weigh in my experience, I did the US Southern Tier last summer and did not need solar chargers. I did consider them, though. My requirements were to keep my Nexus4 on 24x7, while GPS tracking my route. This is a pretty power intensive application, and I was able to do it by just buying a big 15,000mAh backup battery and charging it whenever I had access to power. I could go for about 4 day in between without any power before I had to plug in, and even going through the desert this was not a problem. YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T17:29:09.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20585" CreationDate="2014-03-06T17:58:32.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the time of this posting, the solar chargers out there aren't very robust, unless money isn't a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to be camping each night, try the biolite camp stove. I haven't found anything that can charge my iPhone faster and it's relatively cheap, much cheaper than a good solar charger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biolitestove.com/campstove/camp-overview/features/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.biolitestove.com/campstove/camp-overview/features/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T19:02:09.527" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T19:02:09.527" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20602" CreationDate="2014-03-06T21:04:23.967" Score="6" ViewCount="2448" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I strip the paint from a bike frame?&#xA;I tried using a sander and it left really annoying scratch marks on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use a chemical paint stripper to completely remove the paint from the frame? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not plan to repaint it after stripping the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T21:38:48.593" Title="how to strip the paint from a bike yourself?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20593" CreationDate="2014-03-06T21:16:41.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience with various internal gear hubs on Dutch bikes, I found there's no maintenance necessary: I've never heard of them breaking down because of lack of maintenance. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/2009/01/anatomy-of-reliable-everyday-bicycle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blog post&lt;/a&gt; that concurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current Gazelle bike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gazellebikes.com/service/manuals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt; also does not explicitly mention any maintenance on the hub gears, only how to adjust them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7161" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T21:16:41.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20600" CreationDate="2014-03-06T21:38:48.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;John Allen has a page on refinishing a bicycle on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/paint-prep.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's website&lt;/a&gt;. You need some covering on the frame to protect it, though. For aluminum, it is recommended to use chemicals and not sandpaper (due to particle embedding), but for steel, sandblasting is fine. The main issue with chemicals is fumes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also several related threads on bicycles.SE such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4183/diy-painting-a-bike-frame-is-it-possible?lq=1&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/221/how-to-prepare-a-frame-for-a-new-paintjob?lq=1&quot;&gt;this one.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T21:38:48.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20585" CreationDate="2014-03-06T23:24:32.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have actually used both 2 different sized solar panels and a lithium backup battery on Ragbrai. Whether any of these will work for you depends on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many days long is your ride?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How sunny will it be and how much time will you have to do a solar charge?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many devices you need to charge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For solar charging. The first lesson is &lt;strong&gt;you can not charge your device with a solar panel while you are riding&lt;/strong&gt;. Solar panels need to be pointed directly at the sun to provide any kind of real power. The little solar chargers you see advertised are utterly useless. They might charge a phone if they were pointed directly at the sun for an entire day &lt;em&gt;(15 hours)&lt;/em&gt;. The larger solar charger I have is 14&quot; x 12&quot; with an adjustable mount so you can keep it aimed at the sun. I could recharge my phone &lt;strong&gt;(when off)&lt;/strong&gt; in 4 - 5 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005ZSVZRY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Small charger (useless)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/761285911/sunvolt-portable-solar-power-station&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;10 watt panel (works)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What worked the best was a &lt;strong&gt;large&lt;/strong&gt; backup battery. They are not physically large- just large capacity. (15,000mAh or more). I used this for an entire Ragbrai. It charged my phone once a day for 9 days with power to spare. Note you turn your phone off at night, plug it into the charger, and the charger automatically turns off when the phone is charged. The phone saves power by being off all night. Wake up, turn the phone on and it's good for the entire day and evening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00D5T3QK4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sample 15,000mAh battery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can fly with these batteries in your luggage and probably in your carry on luggage. But the TSA often makes up its own rules on the fly and might decide to confiscate one in your carry on. I would keep it in checked bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tsa.gov/traveler-information/safe-travel-batteries-and-devices&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TSA rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it takes about 2 full days to charge one of these batteries. You should probably test charging all your devices at home to see whether you can make it on your trip. You also need to remember that your battery is just as dangerous as an equivalent sized container of gasoline. You do not want to puncture it or expose it to high heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all that information is confusing, I only take my backup battery on Ragbrai now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T23:24:32.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20594" CreationDate="2014-03-06T23:49:52.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is trigonometry. Most bikes have a headset angle of about 74°, give or take a degree. Over the adjustment range you're looking at that degree doesn't make a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, tan(74 degrees) = height change / reach change = ~3.5. So to get a centimetre of reach change to need to lift the stem 3.5cm, putting the stem up reducing the reach. Or you can invert that and say each centimetre you lift the stem changes the reach by about 3mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly, the stem that's about 1cm longer but 3cm higher will have the same reach. But 3cm higher will feel quite different, and because of the way your body curves to reach the bars it will probably feel as though the reach is shorter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T23:49:52.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2014-03-07T00:14:10.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look into car's side-mirrors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very simple advice, but that it takes time to master. Gazing into parked cars mirrors will give you a warning sign of a possible open door or car that will incorporate into the traffic flow: no person reflected, great! You should be able of doing this quickly and from the reflection decide what to do: it is common that drivers lean forward so they have a broad view of the incoming cars before starting to move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Learn to asses if a passing car will turn to the right&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did the car that over pass you, crank the motor really hard? (listen!) &#xA;Was the driver looking directly ahead or turning his head to the right?&#xA;Mad car drivers have done this to me dozens of times, some with less than a meter of space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pedestrians raising their hands&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This possibly means that a bus or taxi will stop in front of you, or that they will corner you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Learn how to do police car sounds&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Police cars in my city do a sort of half-cycle-siren sound they use for bringing up attention, not really for chasing. I do it with my mouth, sort of similar to wolfs howl. Specially useful riding on the night, when there are a lot of cars skipping red lights. In general, you should be able to make loud sounds with no devices, be it hiss or whistle or even yelling. But only use them in danger situations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an extra: if you have a crappy front light (like I do) you should be able to change the angle it points. Directly to the ground to look at the street, this depends on current light conditions, street condition and luminosity of your lamp. Parallel-ish to the floor so it easier for cars to spot you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might sound crazy, but I'm sure that there are a lot of people who commute in cities as crazy as mine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T00:14:10.360" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20591" CreationDate="2014-03-07T03:18:03.353" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I've ridden that particular brand but I have ridden a couple (one flex, the other rigid). My experience was that on one bike especially I could feel the shaft wind up under power, which made me reluctant to apply full power (breaking someone's expensive shaft drive bike is a bad idea).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dutch article covers the main problems. To recap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very high torque meaning heavy parts are required, and shaft wind-up may be detectable to the rider.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high torque also means accelerated wear for gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two pairs of gears means extra losses compared to a chain drive (the gear arrangement also increases losses compared to a chain because there's more metal sliding on metal under pressure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;usually cannot change the gearing, what's designed in is what you get. Edit: I have seen internally geared hubs fitted so you can get multi-gear shaft drives, but you're still locked into that particular model hub gear (you can't swap the 3 speed hub gear for a 5 or 8 speed hub gear).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unusual design makes servicing harder, and replacement parts may not be available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slop that the article complains about is not necessarily a problem by itself. But in that case it's an indication of premature wear, which is a problem. Some slop is inevitable, and old shaft drive bikes used to be designed with considerable slop and were quite wear-tolerant as a result. They traded efficiency for that, but it meant you got a bike that worked ok, and kept working ok for 20 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is that the parts that are wearing are not mass market parts, they're short-run precision made out gears using hard to work material (and they're cast then machined, which is expensive by itself). That translates to expensive. By comparison bicycle chain is almost a commodity - it's made by the kilometre by several manufacturers, so it's cheap and there is effective competition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common alternative is the full chain guards often seen on European bikes. That gives most of the benefit of the chain drive but using common bike parts in a way that any bike shop can service. It doesn't work as well, IMO, but a service interval of 10000km or so is better than an exposed chain and IMO a good compromise between cost and durability. As &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4168/are-chain-drive-gears-ridiculously-efficient-even-when-dry-of-oil&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; suggests a major benefit of chain oil is preservation rather than lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T03:37:59.203" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20632" CreationDate="2014-03-07T08:55:04.197" Score="5" ViewCount="1673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been weighing up some options over wheels and in doing my research I've noticed that rim depth may be a bigger factor than I had previously considered. On the one hand, shallow rims are typically lighter and less susceptible to cross winds than deep rims - obviously the choice if doing lots of riding in hilly or windy areas. On the other hand, deep rims offer great stiffness (so more stability/handling improvements) and better aerodynamics, seemingly then the choice for flat low wind areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I thought about group vs solo riding - when riding solo obviously the deep rims provide a maximal aero advantage. However, when riding in a group there is more slipstreaming going on, so aero performance should theoretically become less important (at least when not leading the bunch). This depends on how much slipstreaming advantage reaches the bike, I assume the biggest &quot;hole in the air&quot; comes at body level and that the bikes only punch a small hole which is unlikely to reach the bike behind unless &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is, does the aero performance of a wheel become dramatically less important when group riding?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because I do a lot of solo training but want to maximize my speed for big group (~20-30 riders) riding events (vätternrundan and skandisloppet in Sweden), if the aero benefit is not reduced greatly then I think it makes sense to take deep rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T19:05:32.727" Title="Does group riding negate the aero benefit of deep rim wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20593" CreationDate="2014-03-07T10:39:01.277" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience as a bicycle mechanic in the Netherlands: don't mess with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is an Shimano, it will probably run &gt;100.000 km. If it is a Sturmey Archer, SRAM or any other well known brand, it will mostly do &gt;50.000 km as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a small hole for lubricant, only do this once a year or so, with some thin grease, but not oil. Oil is to thin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't shift well, first look at the cable. You probably only need to adjust the tightness of the cable. If this doesn't work, de-attach the cable. Every hub must work correct in the smalles or biggest gear without a cable attached. If this still doesn't work, the hub is broken. (Happens almost never.) If a 3-gear hub is broken, it is easy to take apart and build together again. And finding which gear or bearing is broken isn't difficult either. Finding a bearing balls is easy to, but finding a spare gear is probably not so easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main point: leave it as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T10:39:01.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20575" CreationDate="2014-03-07T10:49:44.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To really know what is wrong we need more information. But to give you some help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know how to re-adjust the gear to shift correctly:&#xA;- Clean the derailleur (which pushes your chain to another gear).&#xA;- Push the cable back and forth a bit, and if possible, oil it a bit.&#xA;If this didn't work and you don't know how to adjust your gears to work correctly, bring it to a bicycle mechanic (such as me!). Because you can't do much more without disassembling the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do know how to re-adjust the gear, this works better:&#xA;- Disassemble the cable.&#xA;- Clean the derailleur, and put some grease on the spring.&#xA;- Take out the inner cable, and spray a lot of oil in the outer cable&#xA;- Assemble the cable inside the outer cable. Check if the shifter works correctly by pulling the cable and shifting.&#xA;- Assemble it al again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: it took me 2 edit's to correctly write 'inside'!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T10:49:44.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20563" CreationDate="2014-03-07T10:58:54.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible. But also mind that your tires are perhaps more worn down than a year ago and/or they are not sufficiently pumped up (or whatever it is called in english)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good new tire with 2-6 Bar (or 6-9 Bar with racing-bikes) of air pressure has less chance of being punctured than an older tire or an tire with less than 2 bar of air pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T10:58:54.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20618" CreationDate="2014-03-07T11:26:42.703" Score="2" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/ultegra-di2-clamp-band-sm-ad67m-31,8mm-28,6mm-56399/wg_id-6873&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;di2 front derailleur braze on adapter&lt;/a&gt; be used to mount 105 derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T19:28:14.383" Title="di2 front derailleur braze on for 105?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;braze-on&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14162" CreationDate="2014-03-07T13:19:28.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok here is what I have done, and how it all went. I bought a pair of new proper bolts with washers. With shipping they were two most expensive bolts I have bought in my life, around $10. I have cleaned everything well, installed new bolts and tightened them as good as I could, by alternating bolts for each half turn. After that for few days I kept checking them and tightening them when needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that one year passed and I have made more than 10.000km on that crank set. When the bottom bracket was changed at about half year ago, I told to the guys in bike shop to be extra careful, and I have followed on them by checking and retightening bolts for few days, and it all went well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago I have sent the bike to the service and forgot to:&#xA;- mention to tighten the bolts really tight&#xA;- follow up on them and check for few days if bolts are tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I have returned from one night ride, I have noticed that crank arm has almost fell of, and now it was beyond repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to summarize, replacement bolts turned out to be a good investment, maybe it could have been even better if I was more careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T13:19:28.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="279" CreationDate="2014-03-07T15:57:17.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just about to do this myself.&#xA;Re-use the old hubs to save your sanity.&#xA;This may involve replacing the spokes&#xA;if they're not compatible with the new rim.&#xA;A new set of front and rear brakes will run you about $70.&#xA;You should replace the brakes if they are the Diacompe-type&#xA;vintage from the 70's or 80's. They are too weak by today's standards.&#xA;Tecktro makes a great dual pivot design that's a great replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10507" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T15:57:17.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20607" CreationDate="2014-03-07T17:36:54.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get aero benefit when you ride at the front and at the back. So it depends on how big is the group. Or more to the point, how long you spend time at the front and at the back. If you ride in two lines in group of four the you get the aero benefit 100% of the time (in different amount).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are 6 in a group riding in two lines then 67% of the time you get aero benefit, assuming equal time spent in every position. If the group forms 4 rows then you get benefit 50% of the time, and so on. It diminishes as the group gets larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're a protected rider or just a passenger, then you don't get any benefit at all. But you could also spend 99% of them in the middle of the pack conserving and wishing you have all aero advantage when it comes to the sprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think when riding in bunch (forming more than 2 lines) the aerodynamic is a bit different for the guys in the middle because it's not only there's less air resistance but it also sort of move in the same direction as the group. Kind of like there's no advantage of being aero when having some tailwind. Positioning might be the key there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T17:36:54.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20616" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-07T17:48:57.093" Score="2" ViewCount="2212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I'm too heavy for my bike. I'm about 260lbs (118kg). I keep getting flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10508" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-03-07T18:35:14.873" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T20:02:30.063" Title="Am I too heavy for my Trek 7200 multitrack?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20616" CreationDate="2014-03-07T19:17:47.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being too heavy and getting too many flats may be separate issues... On one hand, weight will always seem to increase the rate of flats, as I have discovered by going cross country with 60 pounds strapped to my rear rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, as long as you are not popping spokes, you are not &quot;too heavy&quot; for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To phrase this another way, this is not a bike issue, it's a tube-popping issue. If you're getting too many flats, make sure you're running the correct pressures, and maybe get some thorn resistant tires and or tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T19:17:47.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20612" CreationDate="2014-03-07T19:28:14.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this should be fine, as the front derailleur braze on mount is universal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T19:28:14.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20616" CreationDate="2014-03-07T20:02:30.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a Trek FX 7.3 and weigh over 400 pounds.  The only time I've gotten a mysterious flat (no nail or glass in the tire) was when I had ridden over 80 miles in about 7 hours.  I didn't realize the pressure was going down due to the heat and cooling (random rainstorms) and got a pinch flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you keep your tires pumped to the max and you aren't breaking spokes, you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pump up the tires before every ride to their max. I recommending topping off the air every 50 miles you do - if riding 50+ miles in a single ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on a side note, I use to break spokes regularly - until my local bike shop hooked me up with custom wheel build for my bike. Now my bike doesn't even creak on a long hill climb! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="166" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T20:02:30.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20622" CreationDate="2014-03-07T20:02:32.873" Score="5" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to buy a new bicycle.  Is it better to buy it at a specialized bike store or at a general sports shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it matters, I live in Vienna, Austria.  I know very little about bicycles in general.   The bicycle is intended to be used in the city to get me to and from work, and so does not need to be fancy or sophisticated at all.  &lt;em&gt;Better&lt;/em&gt; can mean cheaper, better quality, more reliable, more likely to find what I need, and/or other aspects that may be relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10511" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T23:57:20.017" Title="Specialized bike store or general sports shop" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;europe&gt;&lt;lbs&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20620" CreationDate="2014-03-07T20:29:55.643" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about Austria, but here in the UK many general sports shops are no more than outlets for Nike and Adidas clothing. If you are someone who knows very little about bikes, I'd suggest that this would be riskier than going to a specialised bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that would possibly make the general sports shop more attractive would be price. But you live in a capital city, so surely there are enough outlets to keep prices competitive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would say that if prices are similar between general shops and bike shops, then its a no-brainer to pick the bike shop because they'll (likely) have a higher level of expertise, in terms of listening to your requirements and proposing a suitable bike. People also place value in building a relationship with their lbs - this may or may not be important to you, but certainly it can't harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are tempted to go to a general store, for price or any other reason, maybe you should at least apply some due diligence. What should you do if there's an aftersale problem? What do they offer when its time for a service? for example. Some &quot;general sports shops&quot; (such as Decathlon, do you have them?) will also have in-store bike mechanics, which would at the very least give you some confidence that they are able to maintain what they sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-03-07T21:06:59.290" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T21:06:59.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20500" CreationDate="2014-03-07T22:48:32.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;German sites welcome?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtb-news.de&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mtb-news.de&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike-magazin.de&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bike-magazin.de&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards Stefan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4666" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T22:48:32.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20620" CreationDate="2014-03-07T22:51:34.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I concur with PeteH's answer, with the caveat that local bike cultures, and certainly individual bike shops, can sometimes skew heavily in the direction of a specific kind of riding or a specific kind of rider... who may not be you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's completely fine to walk out of a local bike shop that treats you like something you'd scrape off the bottom of your shoe, and &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; completely fine to go to a larger store if that's where they'll actually listen to you and honestly try to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to find the right place to shop is to ask a rider you know who does the same sort of riding you want to do where s/he buys gear locally. I don't know any cyclist who would refuse to answer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T22:51:34.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20620" CreationDate="2014-03-07T23:57:20.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A specialized bike shop is a good idea, but so are bike co-ops and related things. A dealer who specializes in used bikes is a good bet as well - it will be cheaper probably and they will probably have a selection of good commuters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T23:57:20.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-08T04:50:21.257" Score="26" ViewCount="104256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering, for a correctly sized mountain bike, or hybrid, should I be able to place my foot flat on the ground, when I sit on the bike seat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10445" LastEditorUserId="8918" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T12:08:24.327" LastActivityDate="2019-08-02T23:37:14.077" Title="Should my foot be able to step flat on the ground, when I sit on a bike seat?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20627" CreationDate="2014-03-08T05:15:21.127" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically your feet should not be able to touch the ground flat when you're on the seat - it is a sign that your seat is too low (you may be able to touch the ground with your toes depending on your shoe size - I wear US 13 and this is possible for me). See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html#height&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; for some guidelines, but typically you get a good starting position either by experience or asking for a bike fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while saddle height is the &quot;easiest&quot; measurement you can setup, you also need to set the forwards/backwards position of the saddle, tilt, handlebar height and reach, etc. (which is why people do bike fits). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-03-08T06:17:36.280" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T06:17:36.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20630" CreationDate="2014-03-08T09:32:33.160" Score="11" ViewCount="703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often heard this from other bikers where they do recovery rides the day after a long ride (greater than 100kms). What is it for and is it really needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9166" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T10:25:21.047" Title="What is a recovery ride?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20629" CreationDate="2014-03-08T10:12:58.053" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recovery ride is a ride where you go at a very easy pace for 90-120 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea of it is to give all those over-worked muscles some gentle exercise so that they don't tighten up, while flooding them with nutrients to help them repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For people in training, it's a day off to just enjoy riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride with a friend on his recovery ride because I'm the only rider he knows who won't half-wheel him. We go for a nice easy (for him) 50km, and talk about anything except his training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com.au/search?q=Recovery+ride&amp;amp;safe=active&amp;amp;oq=Recovery+ride&amp;amp;gs_l=mobile-heirloom-serp.12...0.0.1.1283.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1c..34.mobile-heirloom-serp..2.2.183.7Y0EgXgDJtk&quot;&gt;recovery ride&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-03-08T10:25:21.047" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T10:25:21.047" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20627" CreationDate="2014-03-08T13:17:35.690" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a standard bike in normal use you should not, from the seat, be able to touch the ground (without leaning, or except, perhaps, on extreme tip-toe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard diamond frame (with horizontal top bar), for road use, should be sized so that you can stand flat-footed over the top bar with a &quot;comfortable&quot; margin (but no more) between the bar and the stuff above the bar.  (A bike used off-road will generally be a bit more compact, and, of course, the top bar is often not horizontal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seat should be positioned so that your leg is &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; fully extended at the bottom of the stroke (the knee should not go perfectly straight).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to fit the seat height is to have someone hold the bike while you pedal backwards with your heels on the pedals.  With your &lt;em&gt;heels&lt;/em&gt; on the pedals the knees should go perfectly straight at the bottom of the stroke, but with no need to rock side-to-side to maintain contact with the pedals.  (Once you switch to using your toes on the pedals in a normal fashion the proper almost-straight leg extension is obtained.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off-road, and for stunt riding, generally the seat will be a bit lower, and some may find it convenient to lower the seat a bit for city riding.  But be aware that a too-low seat puts significant strain on the knees and can lead to knee injury (especially when combined with riding in a too-difficult gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-03-08T23:00:23.793" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T23:00:23.793" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20607" CreationDate="2014-03-08T19:05:32.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The aero benefits of deep rims come from reducing the spoke length. Imagine that you're drafting behind a large truck at 25 MPH; you're not experiencing any headwind, but your spokes are still going around in a circle and slicing through the air. So reducing the total length of all the spokes (by using less spokes or shorter spokes) will give you better aerodynamics no matter what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at what the pro road racers do (I mean besides the doping.) They use moderately deep rims on flat races, and only use shallow ones for climbing (when weight is a more important consideration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T19:05:32.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1504" CreationDate="2014-03-08T19:29:47.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grew up riding with straps. Imo i have much better, smoother, stronger, faster, cadence being able to use my whole leg to spin the crank... feels like driving a fast car when your accelerator and clutch makes it seem like you're in a rubber band.  Yes, that good lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10519" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T19:29:47.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-08T19:38:51.090" Score="2" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard an interesting opinion yesterday that said all freewheels made back in the day (we were discussing this over a wheel with a Maillard hub and a Maeda (?) freewheel). The shop mechanic said that because it was made in the hey-day of freewheels, it was automatically better than anything made today, in which everything freewheel is being slowly phased out. Now I've tried out mountain/hybrid bike freewheels on a road bike, and I liked the ramps and such, but do the older freewheels (especially entry-mid level ones) really hold that much over modern freewheels? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may sound a little opinion based, but I'm know there's a factual answer out there comparing weight, usability, durability, features, and other technical attributes which make a difference to general, everyday performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm strictly comparing members of the thread-on class, not discussing the merits of cassettes and free-hubs and other modern technology. I tend to run a lot of older technology by virtue of it being cheaper to pick up and cheaper to replace when my daily is stolen and cheaper to maintain myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8649" LastEditorUserId="8649" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T22:40:51.063" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T23:18:47.420" Title="Older road freewheels vs new mountain bike freewheels?" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-08T19:54:05.490" Score="8" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has been nagging me for ages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read a lot of Sheldon Brown's site and actually tend to use bikes from the 70s-80s because they're more economical for daily use and especially for a student like me. But I've noticed that &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of his opinions can be controversial (his discussion of &quot;lawyer lips&quot;), can fly in the face of industry practices (that all leather saddles, 'properly cared for', are better than any plastic saddle), questionable (that the Peugeot UO-8 makes for the greatest touring bike of all time) and then, sometimes, his opinions seem on a troll level, which I can't think of any examples off the top of my head, but have caught myself falling prey to them. A lot of his material is either very enlightening (his discussion of brake usage) or helpful in that you simply can't find the topic anywhere else on the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, is Sheldon Brown's site really the one-stop for all knowledge pertaining especially to older bicycles, or should he be taken simply as a prolific writer who wrote on a great many topics and should be taken with a large grain of salt? I guess the real question is, how much do bike mechanics especially and others depend on his work, or is it simply a convenient online resource for people new to the sport?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8649" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:26:31.390" Title="Sheldon Brown's writing?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="16" ClosedDate="2014-03-13T23:46:50.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20627" CreationDate="2014-03-08T20:04:35.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not be able to. Generally you want your leg fully extended and your foot parallel to the ground at the bottom of your stroke. As others have mentioned, there are allowances to that rule to increase maneuverability, which comes with having a lower saddle, but if you can touch the ground flat footed, and your pedal is 15-30 cm off the ground at the bottom of your stroke, then you can't possibly have an efficient stroke, and you're hurting your knees in the process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the strategies to adjusting your saddle is that you ride for about 5 minutes, then raise your saddle about an inch. According to Sheldon Brown, if your bike feels lighter and faster, then that's a good adjustment for you. I raise it by inch or half inch increments, then when it feels like you're over reaching, lower it by only a quarter inch at a time. Give yourself time to adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8649" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T20:04:35.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-08T20:07:03.007" Score="2" ViewCount="1858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to open the lock to use the bike, the key was jammed and I forced it so much it snapped so now part of the key is inside the lock and consequently the bike is locked and the whole lock is impossible to remove. What is the best procedure to follow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10520" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-03-08T23:52:33.270" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T11:48:08.643" Title="My lock was rusty and key snapped while trying to unlock bike so now its permanently locked" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20635" CreationDate="2014-03-08T21:22:31.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every theory in science can be discussed. No one can say something absolute - even things, that looks now like &quot;the only truth&quot;, can be overridden the next year (or even before).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sheldon Brown was a great bicyclist, that knew the theory and physics of bikes. He also was a rider with lot of experience in it. He wrote his own feelings and practice. His opinion may be discussed (especially in such subjective things like saddle), and it is in some books. Yet his posts are highly honored by many cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T21:22:31.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-08T21:36:07.390" Score="0" ViewCount="7637" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are more expensive marks like &quot;Trek&quot;, &quot;Cannondale&quot;, &quot;Specialized&quot; and cheaper ones like &quot;Merida&quot;, &quot;Norco&quot; and many others.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What are the benefits of the expensive ones, if say the components like frame material, derailleurs, brakes, BB, cassettes, rims, tires are the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T01:27:21.087" Title="What benefits in bikes like &quot;trek&quot;, &quot;cannondale&quot;, over &quot;merida&quot; and such?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-03-19T22:25:59.400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6697" CreationDate="2014-03-08T22:42:00.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planet Bike's &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecom1.planetbike.com/smallparts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;small parts page&lt;/a&gt; has a section for tail lights that includes quite a few shims and adapters. You may be able to find just the thing there. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T22:42:00.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20639" CreationDate="2014-03-08T23:22:52.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the components really are the same (and I think you'll find that's unusual if there is a large price difference) then odds are the cheaper bike is probably a better value. The more expensive bike may have other qualities that are superior, but those differences probably won't be big enough to overcome the price differential. I'd say that for the average cyclist it rarely makes sense to buy the more expensive name brand if a bike with nearly identical components can be had for less. But there's the rub -- they rarely are nearly identical unless they're also fairly close in price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T23:22:52.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20639" CreationDate="2014-03-09T01:27:21.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're paying some amount for the branding of the bike, as well as the bike shop to carry the branding and advertising it and supporting the bike after you buy it. A lot of components can be the same - for example, tons of major brand and non-major brand run complete Shimano 105 drivetrains and various other parts (they may have slight model number changes for OEM versions versus retail versions, but essentially the same stuff). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there can be some engineering differences though in the parts which are intrinsically the manufacturer's. This is typically the frame+fork - just because you make two frames which look kinda alike out of the same material doesn't mean that they are the same quality frames, or as well engineered as each other for lightness/strength/stability/etc. [Though I'm not saying that smaller branded products are necessarily worse-ly engineered. ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, typically, the major brand stuff looks a lot nicer with better resale value if you're into that sort of thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth saying that while some places (e.g. BikesDirect) advertise a lot of their frames as &quot;compare to (name brand) at (much higher price)&quot;, there are trade-offs in what you get. The frame, for example, may have less nice joins, be a bit heavier, use a lower grade of metal, etc. , so its not exactly the same thing (in some cases, good enough, in other cases, a poor imitation). A lot of people often play the argument that all these bikes are made in similar factories in Taiwan or whatever, but they aren't (usually) coming from the same molds, and a factory can produce a decent spectrum of qualities and types of bikes. [Another thing to note is that places like BD don't have the overhead of a retail shop where  you may get a bike fit or having to hire people to stand in line and what not]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Unlike in the car world, I don't believe that bicycles are often badge engineered anymore (Schwinn had a bunch in the 70s and 80s for the non-made in USA stuff). But you can get some good bikes from some brands which are cheaper than others.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the price difference, a lot is knowing when to buy - if you buy at the right point in time, the price difference is a lot smaller than usual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T01:27:21.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20643" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2014-03-09T01:45:10.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been a member of Bikes.SE for 3 and a half years now. My reputation's not as high as some, but I have supported the community in a couple key ways: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/2013/05/sunday-parkways-recap/&quot;&gt;coordinated a group of Stack Exchange users to volunteer at Portland Sunday Parkways&lt;/a&gt; . We talked to people about Stack Exchange, handed out Bikes.SE swag, and helped neighbors find routes to drive around the event course. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've been the most active writer on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/&quot;&gt;Bicycles Stack Exchange Community Blog&lt;/a&gt;. In particular, my bike light reviews have been extremely popular, gathering hundreds of views a day. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also been a community moderator on Super User (the SE site for computer questions) for over 3 years. I've handled over 1000 flags per year, and have been commended by SE staff for professionally handling several difficult moderation situations. I'm very experienced with the Stack Exchange moderation tools, and have the experience to handle almost any situation that may arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't always answer many questions on the site, but moderation is a way I can give back and make this community a better place. Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastEditorUserId="262" LastEditDate="2014-03-09T01:45:10.657" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T01:45:10.657" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-03-09T01:45:10.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-09T02:08:10.333" Score="2" ViewCount="960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the opportunity to buy a very nice used cross bike at a great price. But, I'm worried about it being a tad bit too big. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has large Blue frameset with the following measurements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top tube length: 58cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat tube length: 55cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head tube length: 16cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My two road bikes, both of which fit me well have the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TT: 56.5 &amp;amp; 57&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ST: 53 &amp;amp; 55&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HT: 16 and 15.5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head tube and seat tube sizes seem to be fine. But, the top tube length worries me. Since it is only 1cm between the cross bike and my 2nd road bike, I'm thinking it might work if I put a slightly shorter stem onto the new bike, and potentially raise the stack height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input on this would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10522" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T18:31:09.980" Title="Cyclocross bike fit" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20645" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-09T03:01:00.280" Score="3" ViewCount="1606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a mountain bike and I ride on the road most of the time and I was looking at slicks for my bike. My tire size that I have now is &lt;code&gt;26x2.00&lt;/code&gt; and the rims. I have on are &lt;code&gt;AT-550 26inch&lt;/code&gt; what size slick tire would be good for me to purchase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10523" LastEditorUserId="10548" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T15:26:15.137" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T15:26:15.137" Title="What size of slick tire should I buy?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20645" CreationDate="2014-03-09T03:35:03.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything you could want to know about tire sizing is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, including recommendations of how wide a tire should go on how wide a rim. In your case, you will look for tires made for 26&quot; rims (ISO 559), but generally, narrow rims should have narrower tires than wider rims. These tires will be marked 26 x decimal number (by decimal number, i mean a number written with a decimal point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schwalbe makes a 26 x 2.00 inch Marathon Plus which would probably make a good replacement (the fatter the tire, more cushioning), as well as 1.5 and 1.75 inch variants. A bit smaller of a tire will technically reduce weight (and lower the bike slightly) and give a bit better handling. If you go down to your bike shop, they probably have a bunch of tires which work for the road well. Look for kevlar belting for puncture protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you're pretty much always on the road, and are running a suspension fork, you may want to swap it out with a suspension corrected rigid fork, since you don't really need suspension beyond the tires on the road unless you have a back problem or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T03:35:03.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-09T03:45:50.863" Score="7" ViewCount="2104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to assess how important side visibility is at night on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T09:48:25.953" Title="What percentage of bike vs. car accidents at night could be avoided by good side visibility?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;night-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-09T10:07:57.930" Score="-2" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rigid road bike right now, can I transform it into a full suspension mountain bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10428" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-03-09T17:08:59.403" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T22:49:06.440" Title="Can a road bike be transformed intto an mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-03-17T01:02:05.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20647" CreationDate="2014-03-09T10:11:55.010" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summary: very few. Somewhere between 20% and 90% of crashes involve a motor vehicle approaching a cyclist side-on (guess ~50%), and somewhere between 30% and 90% occur during darkness (guess ~50%). Unfortunately 40% or more are the result of drug-impaired driving or riding. So perhaps 60% of that 50% of 50% = 15% could be avoided if the cyclist had bright side lighting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wide ranges are a result of small numbers and inconsistent statistics collection. As with anything that is quite variable and happens infrequently, random variation makes it difficult to see trends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, modern usage is to talk about &quot;crashes&quot; or &quot;incidents&quot;, partly because that allows us to talk about who was at fault.  99% of crashes are caused by people who intended to do what they did but failed to do so safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New Zealand publishes something close to what you seem to be after: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.transport.govt.nz/assets/Import/Documents/_versions/3877/Cyclist-Crash-facts-2012.1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cyclist-Crash-facts-2012.1.pdf&lt;/a&gt; (pdf link) that includes this summary: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yotgR.png&quot; alt=&quot;common cyclist crash types, NZ 2012&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycleuniverse.info/transpo/almanac-safety.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BicycleUniverse has a useful summary&lt;/a&gt; with references:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cyclist fatalities occurred more frequently in urban areas (66%), at nonintersection locations (67%), between the hours of 5 p.m. and 9 p.m. (30%), and during the months of June, July, and August (36%). (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/departments/nrd-30/ncsa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NHTSA, 2004&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although they list a number of conflicting statistics on intersection fatalities (also 89% and 33%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's rare to find that type of incident breakdown in published statistics. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edgarsnyder.com/bicycle/bicycle-safety-resource-center/bicycle-statistics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page from the USA&lt;/a&gt;, for example, doesn't even separate fatal from non-fatal accidents when attributing fault. And they talk about cyclists breaking the law but not motorists, so (for example) if a cyclist did not have a rear reflector on their bike when a motorist T-boned them the statistics would say &quot;cyclist breaking the law, hit by car&quot;. This is regrettably common across all analyses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;More than 15 percent (16.6% and 60 crashes) occurred when motorists&#xA;  made careless turns. Data showed that cars are four times more likely&#xA;  to sideswipe a bicycle than vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key points there are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Nearly 75 percent of bikers were killed between 4 a.m. and 8 p.m. Nearly 20 percent were killed between the hours of 8 p.m. and midnight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Alcohol-impaired riding or driving was reported in more than 40 percent of the accidents that resulted in bicyclist fatalities in 2009. In a third of the crashes, either the driver or biker had a Blood Alcohol Content (BAC) level of .08 or higher (the legal limit).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Bicycle rider fatalities occurred more frequently in urban areas (69%), at non-intersection locations (64%), and between 5 and 9 at night (28%).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first point is near-meaningless (75% of cyclists were killed during 66% of the day). But 64% not at intersections suggests that side visibility is not likely to be a major issue (at most 36% of fatalities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a big collection of links to papers at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingresourcecentre.org.au/page/enforcement_road_safety/safety_statistics_common_crashes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cycling Resource Centre&lt;/a&gt; (Australian site, worldwide links).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingresourcecentre.org.au/post/enforcement_road_safety/safety_statistics_common_crashes/injured_cyclist_profile_an_in_depth_study&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vehicle drivers undertaking a turning manoeuvre&lt;/a&gt; posed the biggest threat to cyclists who were generally travelling straight on a carriageway. Those drivers undertaking a right turn manoeuvre posed the greatest threat, particularly those turning across multiple traffic lanes and in peak hour traffic conditions. Young drivers were seen as the group of drivers most likely to be involved in these types of crashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an excellent, although complex, chart on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roadsafety/downloads/crashstats2011.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;page 27 of &quot;Road Traffic Crashes in NSW 2011 (Australia)&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (pdf link) but it covers all road users and does not break out cyclsis. I suspect what you're looking for is something like this that only covers cyclist incidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For non-fatal accidents, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclinglife.com/Library/TaleOfThree.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BicyclingLife compares three cities&lt;/a&gt; (with references) and concludes that motorists failing to give way at stop signs in the most common cause of crashes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-03-09T10:20:27.867" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T10:20:27.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20650" PostTypeId="6" CreationDate="2014-03-09T10:35:44.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an amateur framebuilder and experienced tourist. I have a fascination with load bikes, and document my adventures on www.moz.geek.nz/mozbike I'm more of a transport cyclist than recreational, and have not owned a car (but do have a driver license).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I accumulate reputation mostly through answering questions that few people care about (my median answer score is 2 but about half are accepted answers. A median of 1-3 seems to be common here, which seems low to me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preference is to see more long form answers to solid questions, so I spend a bit of time flagging poor questions and trying to edit questions so they can be answered, or answers so they are grammatically correct. On other SE sites I seem to get much of my rep through the 2 points per accepted edit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's important to read questions charitably, and try to assume that people are here to learn. I find that I often point out edge cases or things that other people have not considered. I take out my frustration by voting to close shopping questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not active on meta mostly because there's not been anything exciting there since I signed up. I did &quot;win&quot; (cough) the decorated bike contest that got moved there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-03-09T10:35:44.607" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T10:35:44.607" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-03-09T10:35:44.607" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-09T12:35:03.630" Score="1" ViewCount="4491" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will a &lt;code&gt;26x1.50&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;26x1.25&lt;/code&gt; slick fit on a rim that I now have with a measure on the tire &lt;code&gt;26x2.00&lt;/code&gt; and the rims I have are &lt;code&gt;26inch bontrager AT-550&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10525" LastEditorUserId="10548" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T15:26:03.307" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T15:26:03.307" Title="Can it fit the rim i have?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-03-17T00:58:36.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20651" CreationDate="2014-03-09T17:01:01.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Bontrager AT-550 rim is a standard 26&quot; mountain bike rim. A typical MTB 26&quot; tire, including the narrower 1.25&quot; should fit, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should compare the bead diameter on the original tire to the new tire.  it's the three digit number on the tire that matters.  Usually, for these tires, it would be 559mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should make sure that the tire width is a minimum of 1/8&quot; or 5mm wider than the width of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T17:01:01.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20635" CreationDate="2014-03-09T17:19:49.463" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown was a good man, a good cyclist, and he spent an inordinate amount of time writing answers for everybody to questions that every new cyclist has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a lot of ways, his answers were pretty dead on. However, like any person with the energy and commitment that Mr. Brown showed with his site, he was very opinionated on a number of issues which are controversial now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because he was also among the first cyclists to use the internet to spread his ideas and knowledge to anyone willing to listen, his ideas are often treated as canonical, even when time and science have moved on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any science, new ideas and equipment overtake the old, and new methodologies, for fitting, for bike construction, and for fitness are tested, and either adopted or discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cyclists who adhere to what Mr. Brown said on any topic, regardless of the evidence to the contrary which is available now. But then, there are dogmatics in any religion, and cycling is a religion for many.  And if cycling was a religion, then Mr. Brown was its first, or at least best known, Internet age missionary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He deserves respect for his efforts, but not dogmatic adherence to his viewpoints. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try his ideas and use what works.  If something doesn't work for you, discard it, and find something that does.  He would be the first to tell you to think for yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T17:19:49.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20647" CreationDate="2014-03-09T18:05:33.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have an excellent answer to the question as asked already, but even if the answer is &quot;very few&quot; there are some things you can do to help yourself at such little effort that they're still worth doing (IMO of course).  They may also help with scary near misses which of course aren't logged, and it's also courteous to be clearly visible so long as you don't dazzle anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm impressed by the reflective sidewall stripes on tyres like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-road-cruiser-26-bike-tyre/rp-prod24626?_%25252524ja=kw%2525253A%252525252BSchwalbe%2525252520Road%2525252520Cruiser%252525252026%2525252522%2525252520MTB%2525252520Tyre%252525257Ccgn%2525253ASchwalbe-WH-116-XX-ModelID%252525253D24626%2525252B-%2525252BSchwalbe%2525252BRoad%2525252BCruiser%2525252B26%2525252522%2525252BMTB%2525252BTyre%252525257Ccgid%2525253A9369871120%252525257Ctsid%2525253A40905%252525257Ccn%2525253AChain%2525252BReaction-AU-P-BMM-All-DT-SE-Schwalbe%252525257Ccid%2525253A118920760%252525257Clid%2525253A55805879320%252525257Cmt%2525253ABroad%252525257Cnw%2525253Asearch%252525257Ccrid%2525253A34401533920%252525257Cdvc%2525253Ac%252525257Cadp%2525253Anone&amp;amp;_%2524ja=cgn%253ADSA%252B-%252BSchwalbe%252B-%252BTyres%252B-%252BMTB%252B26%252522%257Ctsid%253A40899%257Ccn%253AChain%252BReaction-UK-DSA-DSA-Eng-DT-SE%257Ccid%253A221632396&amp;amp;gclid=CJ_zycyChr0CFQcTwwodylYAyQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Road Cruiser&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-tyres.co.uk/conticycle/ti%20ComfortContact.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Continental Comfort Contact&lt;/a&gt; even when quite muddy - try walking towards a bike with them holding a torch.  And they're good commuting tyres anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also got light up valve caps and use white/translucent little silicone LEDs on the offside fork and chainstay or rack.  The former might be just a gimmick - but they show up a long way off, the latter show red at the back and white at the front anyway,* with the diffuse light at the side an added bonus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike also has retro-reflective paint on parts of an otherwise black frame - again, even dirt-spattered it's pretty obvious when a light shines on it - I don't know if there's anything easy to retrofit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I advocate multiple steady lights front and especially rear - I used to commute by car on country lanes in the dark, shared with bikes, and 2 steady rear lights meant I could instantly tell how fast I was gaining on a bike, and get a good idea of how far away it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T18:05:33.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20648" CreationDate="2014-03-09T22:49:06.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is  Daniel R Hicks' one: only by recycling the frame into a completely different shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even trying to bolt on new parts for a half-way conversion will be difficult. The trivial difficulty is &lt;strong&gt;geometry&lt;/strong&gt;. Road bikes usually have a high top tube and expect the rider to lean forward over the bars to improve aerodynamics. Mountain bikes are more upright to facilitate getting off the seat for bumps, and a low top tube to keep it away from your genitals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, you will need disk &lt;strong&gt;brakes&lt;/strong&gt;. If your road bike doesn't have them you will not have brakes after you convert it to a mountain bike. If you have disk brakes you could run 559 (26&quot;) wheels to get slightly fatter tyres, otherwise you'll be stuck with whatever you can fit into the frame (unlikely to be knobbly tyres). Slick tyres or no brakes, you decide... either way as soon as it gets a little muddy you're not going to have much control over the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension&lt;/strong&gt; will be hard. You could probably fit a 29er MTB suspension fork to a road frame, which would also give you room for a fat tyre and front disk brakes. Doing so would almost certainly void the warranty, and the extra length would generate larger forces on the frame which may cause it to fail even if you only used it on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atob.org.uk/bicycle-accessories/pantour-suspension-hub/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pantour make a front hub&lt;/a&gt; with ~12mm of suspension travel that you could build in to give you front suspension. Unfortunately &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/03/05/nahbs-2013-gokisos-amazing-suspension-bicycle-hubs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their rear suspension&lt;/a&gt; seems not to have made it into production. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only alternative I can think of is the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loopwheels.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LoopWheels&lt;/a&gt;&quot; but you would have to have disk brakes and be willing to fit very short cranks, as those wheels require a lot of space for movement (and are only available in 406 size). I suspect that you would have clearance for 100mm cranks at best, and then probably only after fitting a longer front fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could possibly do this, ending up with a frankenbike with a mountain bike front fork and wheel, short cranks and a 406 rear loopwheel. It would cost more than even a mid-range full suspension MTB and perform much, much worse until it inevitably broke. But it would be, in its own way, kind of cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T22:49:06.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20657" CreationDate="2014-03-10T00:47:03.193" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of SPD shoes (not SPD-SL) have the cleat recessed into the shoe so you can walk with it. Has anyone found a way to get Look Keo cleats to be recessed so they are better for walking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect this is not easy due to the way they clip in and the only improving walking things you can do are grip cleats and the cleat covers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T01:06:03.777" Title="Recessing Look Cleats" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;spd&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20656" CreationDate="2014-03-10T01:06:03.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt you will find a way to do this; it would require a shoe with a pretty deep sole to recess the cleats into (that's what SPDs do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the SPD-SLs are pretty similar to the Looks but much more walkable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T01:06:03.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-10T01:53:55.297" Score="16" ViewCount="39624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm referring to my first new bike, with a front wheel quick release lever as shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The picture is picked from Internet&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ELkGY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front quick release lever&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I know whether I have locked my front QR lever correctly? Neither too tight nor too loose? When I tried to open it recently it seemed too tight for me as I was not able to open it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10445" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T19:53:32.990" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T01:53:11.347" Title="How tight should my front quick release lever be?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20659" CreationDate="2014-03-10T02:37:49.620" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that those levers are designed to be opened with your bare hands. Unfortunately it's usually easier to push the lever closed than to pull it open, so it's easy to over-tighten it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with the lever open, and facing back as shown in the picture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind the nut on the other side back 2 or 3 turns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close the lever. It should be very easy, and the wheel is not properly attached.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind the nut in until it is tight (finger tight, do not use tools!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind the nut in half a turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close the lever. It should be firm, but not impossible. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's too hard to close, back the nut off a small amount and try again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It it's too loose, tighten the nut up a small amount and try again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're unusually weak, not being able to open it means it is on too tight. Even if you are somewhat weak, unless you have disk brakes &quot;as tight as you can&quot; should be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you have disk brakes it is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;much more important that the quick release be tight&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. When you use disk brakes the reaction force is pushing the wheel down, out of the fork. It is better to have the QR slightly too tight than slightly too loose with disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the QR lever should always point backwards as shown. That makes it less likely to catch on anything and be pulled open (or throw you off the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link broke, so here's key bits of the article &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;via archive.org&lt;/a&gt; and another article that &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com/2015/10/road-bikes-are-headed-towards-through-axels-but-why/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;summarises the problem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disk brakes and quick releases - what you need to know&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Updated Jan 2006 with the first out-of court settlement)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's right - a UK cyclist has recently settled out of court with a fork manufacturer, in what is I believe the first successful case of its kind. There are a few more details in this thread here - the rider himself is hoping to avoid the limelight but thought that others might like to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of these web pages is to explain the danger of using a disk brake with a standard quick-release fastening for a front wheel on a bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This page you are now reading covers the main description for failure, and evidence in support. What happens and why..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/experts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page quotes several experts&lt;/a&gt; who have commented on the matter. If you aren't prepared to take my word for it (and why should you?) then have a look at what the independent experts say.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/press.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;press coverage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/cpsc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CPSC letter&lt;/a&gt; gets a page of its own&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/index.html#whatshouldIdo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I've had a problem with my disk brake + QR&lt;/a&gt;. What should I do about it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/diary.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A chronological look&lt;/a&gt; at how this all happened, which will also be kept reasonably up-to-date with the latest news and current status of the problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/comments.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The manufacturers have hardly responded so far&lt;/a&gt;, but I'll put up anything more they say.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One year on, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/denial.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the manufacturers deny they have ever heard of this problem&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, I got hold of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/cannondale.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;copy of Cannondale's tests&lt;/a&gt;. Read and weep (or laugh).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At last, an &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/admission.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;admission from Marzocchi&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[NB for 'quick release' please read 'conventional axle in slotted dropouts'. A simple nutted axle may be slightly better than a QR in theory, as it can provide a higher clamping force. However I'm not convinced that in practice it is safer, as it will be less obvious if it loosens or slips, and in fact the greater bolt diameter will generate a stronger unscrewing force. The safe alternative is a properly clamped axle combined with fork ends with a blocked exit slot, as shown in the pictures below.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A brief `Executive Summary'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main aspects to the failure.&#xA;The disk brake generates a massive force largely downwards in the direction of the open fork ends. The friction of a quick release skewer is often not sufficient to stop the axle slipping down in the dropout slot.  This is &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/index.html#slipping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;explained in more detail here&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;The QR is initially restrained by the retention lip on the fork (assuming it is present), however over time the slipping of the quick release leads it to unscrew, which is described here. Once it has unscrewed enough, it can be forced over the retention lip and the rider will crash. &#xA;Below the analysis, we have a section of  &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/index.html#support&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;anecdotal and experimental support&lt;/a&gt;, and I've put the small number of  &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20081020074751/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/comments.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manufacturers' comments&lt;/a&gt; on a separate page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T01:53:11.347" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T01:53:11.347" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20659" CreationDate="2014-03-10T06:53:42.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on your forks to a degree - if you don't have lawyer lips on your forks you'll probably want to go a smidge tighter than you otherwise might - I've had loosely closed QR levers work completely loose over the course of a ride. If you have difficulty closing it then it's almost certainly too tight - opening it will be ever harder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rear QRs if you have horizontal dropouts you'll want to tighten the QR quite tightly - it can be pretty hard to get them tight enough to prevent wheel slippage if you have QRs with an external cam or chrome plated dropouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10299" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T06:53:42.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-10T08:55:48.970" Score="0" ViewCount="1048" Body="&lt;p&gt;explain me about the rear suspension of mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10428" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T12:16:44.053" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T12:16:44.053" Title="different types of rear shock suspension and their uses?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-03-10T12:58:41.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20662" CreationDate="2014-03-10T12:15:29.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a very rough answer to your very generic and open ended question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rear suspension (or shock), together with the front suspension (fork), allows the bike to handle more terrain roughness. This gives you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;safety&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;traction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ability to go faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main two types of rear suspensions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;air sprung&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally air suspensions are lighter and better for XC, all mountain, enduro. Coil shocks are heavier, more linear and better for downhill. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16814/whats-the-difference-between-all-mountain-cross-country-freeride-downhill-bi/16822#16822&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s the difference between All-Mountain, Cross Country, Freeride, Downhill bikes?&lt;/a&gt; for a reference on mountain bike types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T12:15:29.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2014-03-10T14:02:52.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tidy Tent is a zipped tent which can be secured to floor or wall - I've ordered mine just a couple of days ago... If you search for Tidy Tent you'll get more info.&#xA;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10536" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T14:02:52.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20675" CreationDate="2014-03-10T14:30:32.347" Score="8" ViewCount="2285" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that all mid-range rear shocks have a setting to limit the travel (called &lt;em&gt;oil gate&lt;/em&gt; CTD or equivalent?), why wouldn't most frames be designed for extremely long travel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the biggest factor that influences this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is is it that a frame with compromising geometry between cross-country and downhill geometry (head tube angle, chain stay length) can't exist?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it because of the added weight?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it because many people ride cross-country and don't imagine they will ever enjoy rougher sections of the trail?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe the price is the main reason?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T06:45:27.223" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T06:45:27.223" Title="Why aren't most suspension bikes extremely long travel?" Tags="&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20666" CreationDate="2014-03-10T15:18:20.890" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long travel bikes have a particular geometry which only benefits descends. Applying long travel on an XC geometry bike will create a bike which is not good for anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long travel absorbs a lot of energy. XC riders would not like this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long travel requires stronger construction to avoid flex. This means more weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T15:18:20.890" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20668" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-03-10T20:59:24.480" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T20:59:24.480" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T20:59:24.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20669" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-03-10T20:59:24.480" Score="0" Body="From wikipedia: A fatbike is a bicycle with over-sized tires, typically 3.7&quot; or larger and rims wider than 44mm, that are designed for riding on soft unstable terrain such as snow and sand. These bikes are built around frames with large forks and stays to accommodate the wide rims required to fit these tires." OwnerUserId="7415" LastEditorUserId="7415" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T22:17:15.057" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T22:17:15.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5173" CreationDate="2014-03-10T22:52:58.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently adjusted my new bikes chain with 3 speed internal hub gears and slightly oval chain ring. The bike had the chain cranked up extremely tight and it didn't feel or sound  right. I'm sure it would have damaged the bearings or damaged something in the rear wheel internal hub over time. I kept slackening the chain until I found no noticeable binding at the point where the chain is tightest due to oval chain ring. The chain will have some some movement about 10-20mm halfway between the chain ring and back wheel, with this movement I could feel the chain had no slack. To dial out the drive train binding I lifted the back wheel of the ground and turned the pedals by hand, I felt the resistance and could here it too. I dialed this binding out bit by bit. I believe this binding equates to increased mechanical loss and more wear and tear on moving components. I think there should be no tension in the chain and as little as possible slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10541" LastEditorUserId="10541" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T23:32:20.020" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T23:32:20.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20637" CreationDate="2014-03-11T11:19:18.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is the cable or chain lock use bolt cutter. If it's a D-lock (U-lock) you have to use a hacksaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T11:19:18.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20666" CreationDate="2014-03-11T12:00:45.093" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put simply, a master of a craft will be better at it than a &quot;jack of all trades&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dedicated cross country race bike will be better for XC racing than an All Mountain bike. The same would be true of the dedicated downhill race bike. An All Mountain bike strikes a compromise in the middle, making it a good choice for someone who wants to do a bit of everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit more complex than that though, e.g. the Specialized Enduro makes different compromises to their Stumpjumper Evo. One is closer to the DH end of the spectrum, while the other is more of an XC/Trail machine. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/20667/4307&quot;&gt;Cherouvim's answer&lt;/a&gt; points out some of the compromises (geometry, inefficiency, weight, flex, cost). Others include things like wheel size (XC racers might want a 29er, DH racers a 26er, and Enduro riders — who do a bit of both — might go for 27.5) and axle size (9mm QR is lighter but more flexible than 20mm thru). Which compromise you choose depends on what you want to ride!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;do everything&quot; bike you describe would be complex and compromised, but it does exist: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bionicon specialise in such bikes. Their &quot;Edison&quot; model has 160mm travel in the fork. At the flick of a switch, the fork adjusts down to 80mm and the frame changes its geometry (by lengthening the shock). It's complex (it needs very special suspension to enable the adjustment) and compromised (the shock and dual crown fork are significantly heavier than dedicated XC suspension, and you have to carry the extra weight of the adjustment equipment too).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Scott Genius LT offers 170mm travel in a lightweight carbon frame, along with an adjustable fork and shock. It doesn't change geometry, but offers three suspension modes (I think it limits travel). It's still too much of a compromise for a dedicated XC racer, who wants their bike to be even lighter, will probably never need all 170mm travel and probably wants 29&quot; wheels and a front mech. It's also not far pushed enough in the other direction for the dedicated downhill racer. It's a compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, many forks offer a travel adjust option (e.g. Rockshox Dual Position and Fox TALAS). They tend to be big, stiff and relatively heavy forks which work best in their longer travel mode, but can be lowered in order to aid climbing up really steep ascents. However, they're far too heavy for XC racers. If you made them light enough for XC racing, they'd be too flexible for the more gravity-focussed riders. Additionally, the adjustable spring can have an effect of the suspension's sensitivity. They're a compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, features such as Fox's CTD/ProPedal and Cane Creek's Climb Switch don't usually limit suspension travel. They firm up the shock's Compression (and in some cases Rebound) damping. This is to improve the pedalling efficiency of a longer-travel suspension design, in order to help with climbing, or riding on flatter, smoother terrain. They can still use all of the travel if they need to. The climb setting is a compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those compromises aren't necessarily a bad thing though: They enable me to ride my 150mm travel 30lb bike up and down some of the craziest terrain you can imagine. It'll probalby never win an XC or DH race, but it's still a fantastic bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastEditorUserId="4307" LastEditDate="2014-03-12T09:37:44.597" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T09:37:44.597" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="124" CreationDate="2014-03-11T13:12:58.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem and it baffled my for ages, changed BB's tightened crank arms and greased pedal threads and still there.&#xA;Turned out to be the QR on the rear wheel! &#xA;All that stress and I sorted it in 30 seconds!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10546" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T13:12:58.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20503" CreationDate="2014-03-11T13:24:07.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't really comment on whether it's your fault or not, or whether the warranty applies. I'd say take it back and try. Only way to find out...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now onto actually doing it yourself, if you were so inclined. Taking apart a hub is pretty easy and straight forward. The only specialty tool you need is a cone wrench, which is just a really slim wrench, to get into the cone-nuts. Knowing about the concept of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_l.html#locknut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;locknut&lt;/a&gt; is important here. There will be a 17mm nut locked to a 15mm cone nut on the shimano hub you have, so you'll need a normal 17mm wrench as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're working with a rear hub, you want to undo the nuts on the non-driveside and pull the axle out, leaving the driveside nut-cluster in place. For a front hub, you can remove either side. Be careful, as bearings will be exposed and can spill out. You can then inspect the axle to make sure it looks good. Also inspect the amount of grease in the bearing races, and you can inspect the races for pitting or wear also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen bearings split, dirt get in, axles break, and cone nuts get loose, among other things. Any of these issues could cause your current problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T13:24:07.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20579" CreationDate="2014-03-11T14:21:04.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A stupid owner of a bike shop said to me, &quot;See these glasses - they cost $300 a pair and they weigh XX grams.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said holding up my glasses, &quot;See these, they are industrial safety glasses, they protect my eyes from ultraviolet, stones from cars and trucks, everyone stocks them, they are nearly impossible to break and they cost $7 a pair.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was my way of inferring that can have excellent eye protection in clear and tinted and I don't look like a wanker who has more money than brains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10547" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T14:21:04.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3570" CreationDate="2014-03-11T15:30:53.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tri-flow now makes a soy-based chain lube:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Tri-Flow_Superior_Soy_Lubricant_Drip.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Tri-Flow_Superior_Soy_Lubricant_Drip.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;A big ol' jug of soybean oil from the grocery store has the problems noted elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T15:30:53.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-11T18:40:51.957" Score="1" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way that I could easily and affordably (under $US200) add a motor to my bicycle, so that it would move both by my pedalling and with the help of the motor? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10552" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T11:52:00.323" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T11:52:00.323" Title="Making bicycle semi-motor powered" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;motor&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-11T18:54:16.157" Score="4" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey I am looking for a pair of speakers to mount to my bike. How I plan to mount these speakers has yet too be determined, but I have tried once in the past, where I added a pair of speakers to the back-rack of my bike w/ velcro tape. The problem was that the speakers frequently fell off, and what is more, the auvio portable speakers I bought blew out quickly. So the crux of my question is: &#xA;1) are there any speakers made for bikes that I could buy on the internet&#xA;2) if not, are there any portable speakers that would be good for my bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minor Details: I have a 3700 Trek mountain bike  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10552" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T19:12:24.523" Title="Bicycle speakers" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20682" CreationDate="2014-03-11T19:04:59.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get some boombot Rex Speakers, they sell an optional bar mount. You can use them wireless as well. They are not super cheap, but it's a nice product. You can put it on your bag as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.boombotix.com/collections/boombot-rex-wireless-speakers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.boombotix.com/collections/boombot-rex-wireless-speakers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A budget option would be CycleTunes from Biologic, they strap on to your stem (assuming you have the space). It's not wireless, but you can put an mp3 player or something inside of the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/cycletunes-speakers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thinkbiologic.com/products/cycletunes-speakers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T19:04:59.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20682" CreationDate="2014-03-11T19:12:24.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know people who use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.ca/Multi-Function-Bicycle-Speaker-External-Controls/dp/B009PAEE58/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1394564925&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=bike+speaker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;speakers like this&lt;/a&gt;. They work well, and don't fall off the bike. You can hook up your existing MP3 player using the headphone jack. If you do that, the controls on speaker don't work.  Or you can plug in a USB key and play mp3 files off there, and in this case the controls on the speaker work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T19:12:24.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3570" CreationDate="2014-03-11T19:24:45.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the question never actually specified which part of the bike was to be oiled, I'll point out that linseed oil (specifically boiled linseed oil) is often used as spoke prep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, it's used to lubricate the spoke threads during wheel assembly, and the fact that it dries afterwards is desirable as it acts like a threadlock to resist the nipple unscrewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T19:24:45.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20659" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:02:18.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't over do it. If you over tighted your front or back QR, you can squeeze the bearings too much and cause damage -- unless you left your bearing adjustment slightly loose to compensate. You can experiment by using your QR in the wheel with washers on each end, instead of inside the fork of the bike. On the other hand, you don't want front or rear too loose; I was attacked by dogs one time and when I stood up to pedal, I locked the rear tire against the chain stay. My normal position of the clamp is 90 degrees from the bike when it gets snug - then squeeze all the way in. It should be enough to leave an impression in your hand but not enough to damage your bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6867" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:02:18.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20659" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:08:12.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quick release should start to get tough to push when it is half way between open and closed. Best way is to make sure the lever is closing towards the back of the bike so if it catches on a stick it will not open when you are riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:08:12.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20627" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:13:50.603" Score="-7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are sitting on the saddle the ball of your foot should be touching the ground and not flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:13:50.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20575" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:19:45.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have only just purchased the bike it would be within its warranty period. If it is not shifting it could be for a number of reasons but I would take it back and get it fixed free of charge as it is there obligation to fix or exchange it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:19:45.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20520" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:24:26.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would not need to change the rotors as they are both 160mm rotors but both are compatible if you want to change them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:24:26.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20635" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:26:31.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe Sheldon passed away some years ago, so I don't know whether anyone is updating that site anymore,but if it's Sheldon, it would be divine inspiration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:26:31.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20507" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:28:34.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are an old type of valve called a woods valve. you can use a presta valve pump to pump them however it would be easy to change them to Schrader valves as recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:28:34.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20479" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:35:27.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to change the chainset, you will need to change the bottom bracket. You can change it to a square taper Shimano bottom bracket or something more advanced like a external bottom bracket. &#xA;(113/68) 113mm is the length and 68 is the width of the shell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:35:27.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20451" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:41:18.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using something like Gt85 to get rid of any muck that may be inside, this normally works but if it does not then try a thicker bike oil but would not recommend taking it apart any more as some of these bolts can be incredibly soft and easily brocken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:41:18.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20390" CreationDate="2014-03-11T20:45:31.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to replace your rotor with the same size as you already have. It is normally stamped on the rotor, the most common size is 160mm &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10553" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T20:45:31.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20681" CreationDate="2014-03-11T21:19:30.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ebay.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ebay.com&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;Electric Bike&quot; brings up dozens of possibilities. &quot;Petrol bicycle&quot; brings up several petrol option. Any of these kits will do the job, but you will get what you pay for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric kits are expensive, at least twice what you have suggested. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the price range you are looking, a petrol motor version might be best. It's tried and old technlogy, is reliable, is cheaper and has a longer range than electric.  Electric does carry the &quot;Green Tax&quot;, is new and relatively expensive for good solutions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware of local laws as far as limits to motor power and speed go. Most locations limit the power to about 300W and often speeds to below 20km/h or 25km/h (above these the motor is not allowed to provide assistance). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What research have you done, is there any reason any of these is unsuitable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T22:01:36.060" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T22:01:36.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-11T21:28:24.173" Score="0" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there dropper seat posts with 150 mm of travel on the market other than Rock Shox Reverb Stealth and Kind Shock (LEV &amp;amp; Supernatural)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7433" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T13:44:23.717" Title="Dropper seat post with 150 mm of travel" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-12-29T20:59:29.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14469" CreationDate="2014-03-11T21:50:35.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic brakes are easy if you know what you are doing, if you dont then leave em alone. The pistons come out and the seals have to be replaced right way round if they go in the wrong way you have no brakes. Most pros I reckon replace calipers because its easier than stripping down old ones and rebuilding. Also it doesnt take a trained mechanic to do this just the apprentice or whatever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10555" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T21:50:35.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20681" CreationDate="2014-03-11T22:18:47.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having watched the kids next door attach one of the petrol kits to a bike over a few weekends and try to make it work, I suspect the cheap kits don't work very well. They spent a lot of time trying to make the motor run for more than a few seconds. They're also not going to be legal in the EU or some other places because they don't meet the emission regulations or other rules. In Australia they're not legal because the power assist does not cut out at 25kph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/36V-500W-E-Bike-Electric-Bicycle-Motor-Conversion-Kit-DIY-Cycling-Rear-Wheel-/131132853549&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;very cheapest electric kits on eBay&lt;/a&gt; start at about your maximum price limit once you add shipping and any extra parts you need. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Electric-Bike-Conversion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This Instructables&lt;/a&gt; suggests twice your price is a reasonable starting point.  If you're in the USA then &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycle-power.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycle power&lt;/a&gt; has a huge list of links (the US has few rules so there are a lot of options). Those are likely to work only after a lot of effort and expenditure on your part, if they can be made to work at all. My local ebike shop used to sell kits but stopped because they're so failure prone, even the good ones. It's actually cheaper to buy a proper ebike than to attach a kit to a bike then pay for all the things you need to make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the price you want I think you will have to DIY something. There are a few reasonable articles on the web. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&amp;amp;title=Building-an-Electric-Bike-Part-1&amp;amp;A=111535&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Julian Edgar&lt;/a&gt; does it the traditional way, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recumbents.com/wisil/e-bent/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WISIL have some articles&lt;/a&gt; on using radio control model parts to get a light, cheap boost motor. Either of those will eventually get you something that works, but will require a lot of work from you (as is often the case, you can sustitute your on labour for money).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T22:18:47.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20701" CreationDate="2014-03-12T01:43:03.663" Score="4" ViewCount="1744" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit confused on terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedals are the clip-in style pedals. Correct?&#xA;Then the cleat are the shoes you wear? Or are cleats just bottom attachments for any cycling shoe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A used cycle I'm looking at getting has Look KEO Plus Pedals on it which says it comes with Cleats. The shoes the guy had didn't fit though. I'm not fully understanding if any bicycle shoe will fit the Look KEO Plus Pedal or if I need a particular cleat and/or shoe for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index&quot;&gt;Terminology index - a list of bike part names and cycling concepts&lt;/a&gt; has a mention of Look Pedals but doesn't really go into any detail that would answer my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8397" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T01:57:25.083" Title="I'm a bit confused on bike shoe terminology. Particularly regarding Look KEO Plus Pedals - what is required to use them?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20700" CreationDate="2014-03-12T01:57:25.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleats are the bottom attachment to shoes. Most road shoes use a 3 hole attachment, which is a standard size. Most pedal manufacturers have their own cleat style, but all 3-hole cleats use the same spacing as far as I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pedals may come with suitable cleats if you're buying them new, if not make sure you buy 'look keo' compatible cleats. There is another (old) style of look cleat that is incompatible. So long as it says keo you will be fine though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10299" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T01:57:25.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-12T03:09:35.817" Score="4" ViewCount="2982" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the different skills I need to develop when transitioning between a hybrid bike and an endurance road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10556" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2014-03-12T11:15:25.210" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T13:49:20.337" Title="Transition between hybrid bike and endurance road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20702" CreationDate="2014-03-12T04:29:58.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably just have to get used to the geometry of the endurance road bike (since most hybrids are closer to MTB hardtail geometry), which can be helped with bike fit, so the drop bar and saddle are positioned in a way where you can use all the hand positions of the bike (hoods, drops, middle of the bar, sides, etc.) efficiently and comfortably for the type of riding you're doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you should be more aware of road hazards, since most endurance road bikes have weaker wheels than a hybrid, to save weight - bunny hopping can be useful for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you're using clipless pedals (or clipped pedals) on the road bike and not on the hybrid, make sure to practice clipping in and out before you hit the road (unless you like your face hitting the ground...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T04:29:58.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6697" CreationDate="2014-03-12T10:09:10.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After riding a few weeks with a pvc tube as @Daniel suggested, and another few weeks with the light bolted directly to the rack, I plan on 3D print a $#@!% bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:263648&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:263648&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i over did it a little. It is now fully parametrized and can be used with any rear bike rack (just enter the screw you want, the distance from one screw to another, thickness, etc) and any slide-in bike light (chinese, planetbike, etc) just enter the size of the connector part from the light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Death to proprietary connectors! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now i just have to convince myself to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/model/1777084/bicycle-rear-rack-holder-for-slide-in-light.html?li=my-models&amp;amp;materialId=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pay $12&lt;/a&gt; plus almost same as that for shipping for something that might be too flimsy for any actual use :-/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T10:09:10.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20702" CreationDate="2014-03-12T10:25:49.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having made this transition myself, you may need to get used to the following things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gear shifters&lt;/strong&gt;. The action will be unfamiliar, so you may need to think before a change, so try to change in advance of stops at junctions and avoid shifting whilst out of the saddle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Body position&lt;/strong&gt;, especially in the drops. It can help to physically train so that your body can deal with this easily. For example, try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/fitness-strengthen-your-core-with-the-plank-26223/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the plank&lt;/a&gt;. As mentioned, bike fit can also help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handling&lt;/strong&gt;. An endurance bike often has a longer trail, meaning it it stable and holds its course well, but may be less manoeuvrable, especially at low speeds. So take care in traffic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maintenance&lt;/strong&gt;. Make sure you understand how to adjust the brakes, etc and have appropriate spare parts which may be different from the hybrid. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T13:49:20.337" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T13:49:20.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20697" CreationDate="2014-03-12T13:14:29.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find any other posts, unless they are boutique and don't sell online. However it looks like Thomson, Fox, and Crank Brothers all have posts with 125mm which seems to be the next step down. From there, a few have 110mm and the rest are at 100mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T13:14:29.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20681" CreationDate="2014-03-12T14:22:47.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not that cheap, but there are a few companies making retrofit wheels that will add pedal assist to your bike. They will require very little modification to the bike.  I'm not sure the cost, but likely at least $600USD to $800USD per wheel, if not more. Both appear to be pre-production, but open for pre-orders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.superpedestrian.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;copenhagen wheel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flykly.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FlyKly Smartwheel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T14:22:47.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20627" CreationDate="2014-03-12T17:00:18.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Daniel already gave the right answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have one addition, which might be interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually bicycles, that are built placing your foot flat on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are from a company called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.electrabike.com/way-to-roll/flat-foot-technology&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Electra&lt;/a&gt; and use patented &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.electrabike.com/way-to-roll/flat-foot-technology&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flat Foot Technology&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are great for all around town riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8287" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T17:00:18.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20290" CreationDate="2014-03-12T20:38:25.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lubricating the forks wont affect performance by may increase life and preserve cosmetic looks. Cheap forks typically have a coil spring and a sealed damper unit, neither will perform any better with lubrication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oiling the stanchions and dust seals (by Vorac's method above) will prevent dust and water from entering the lower, which over time would cause the fork to stop working, and will help keep the stanchions from rusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More expensive forks are different where oil dampers can get damaged if seals are not well maintained. The oil can become contaminated (different viscosity = different performance) and leak oil. Also any metal on metal could cause scratches which would allow to leak through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T20:38:25.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20290" CreationDate="2014-03-12T21:49:51.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheap suspension forks can have difference attributes to more expensive ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put extra oil on fork stanchion it can mix with the internal oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was a more expensive fork and the performance had reduced I would suggest properly servicing them: changing the oil and seals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheaper forks often have elastomers that provides the damping instead of oil which wears out and means you have to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T19:20:59.013" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T19:20:59.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20290" CreationDate="2014-03-13T00:03:11.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It defiantly helps (on coil spring forks). Way back when, I fryed the RST forks that came on my GF Tarpon on a hot July day in Florida. The fork literally seized. When I got home I pulled the dirt seals off and sprayed a healthy dose of lube (not WD 40 or KY..). The forks started working again but never quite the same, that is to say, they were crapier than just new crap. Regular lubing will keep them going long enough you purchase a plush of fork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9135" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T00:03:11.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20474" CreationDate="2014-03-13T06:19:35.503" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wind speed to temp table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;       9 km/h   18 km/h 27 km/h 37 km/h 46 km/h 55 km/h 65 km/h 74 km/h 83 km/h&#xA;-29°C   -32°C     -43°C   -50°C   -55°C   -58°C   -61°C   -63°C   -64°C   -65°C&#xA;-26°C   -29°C     -40°C   -46°C   -51°C   -54°C   -57°C   -59°C   -60°C   -61°C&#xA;-23°C   -26°C     -36°C   -42°C   -47°C   -50°C   -53°C   -55°C   -56°C   -56°C&#xA;-20°C   -23°C     -32°C   -38°C   -43°C   -46°C   -49°C   -50°C   -51°C   -52°C&#xA;-18°C   -20°C     -30°C   -35°C   -39°C   -42°C   -45°C   -46°C   -47°C   -47°C&#xA;-15°C   -17°C     -26°C   -31°C   -35°C   -37°C   -40°C   -41°C   -43°C   -43°C&#xA;-12°C   -14°C     -22°C   -27°C   -31°C   -34°C   -36°C   -37°C   -38°C   -39°C&#xA; -9°C   -11°C     -16°C   -23°C   -27°C   -30°C   -31°C   -32°C   -34°C   -34°C&#xA; -7°C    -8°C     -16°C   -20°C   -23°C   -26°C   -28°C   -28°C   -29°C   -30°C&#xA; -4°C    -5°C     -12°C   -16°C   -19°C   -21°C   -23°C   -24°C   -25°C   -25°C&#xA; -1°C    -2°C      -8°C   -12°C   -15°C   -17°C   -19°C   -20°C   -20°C   -21°C&#xA;  2°C     0°C      -5°C    -8°C   -11°C   -13°C   -14°C   -15°C   -16°C   -17°C&#xA;  4°C     3°C      -3°C    -5°C    -7°C    -9°C   -10°C   -11°C   -11°C   -12°C&#xA;  7°C     6°C       1°C    -1°C    -3°C    -5°C    -6°C    -6°C    -7°C    -8°C&#xA; 10°C     7°C       2°C     1°C    -1°C    -2°C    -3°C    -4°C    -4°C    -5°C&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print it and you will always know what to put on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T06:19:35.503" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19188" CreationDate="2014-03-13T08:57:45.070" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guy using it apparently is &lt;a href=&quot;http://prollyisnotprobably.com/2014/01/cinelli-and-hans-henrik-oersted/&quot;&gt;Hans-Henrik Oersted&lt;/a&gt; who was sponsered by chinelli. The company recently did a rerun of two jerseys to honor him.&#xA;The picture can also be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wingedstore.com/news/17-cinelli-x-hans-henrik-oersted&quot;&gt;cinellis website about the jerseys&lt;/a&gt; so i wrote a request for information to their customer service.&#xA;They answered it is a handmade trainer build especially for Hans-Henrik Oersted in the 80's. It was never for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4333" LastEditorUserId="4333" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T10:01:13.570" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T10:01:13.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20718" CreationDate="2014-03-13T10:25:57.297" Score="2" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Reasons that are not to be discussed here i did choose a cyclocross frame without disc brakes mounts and i am going to train/compete with Canti Lever Brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, with all the mud and dirt that gets stuck to the wheels, the rims will wear off a lot quicker than the ones one my road bike (which maily rides pavement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are precaution i could take to prevent the rims from lasting less than one season?&#xA;Are there any recommendable cyclocross wheels where i can more or less easily exchange the rim once it is worn off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4333" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T11:02:06.347" Title="Cyclocross Rim Wearing with Rim Brakes and appropriate Solutions" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20717" CreationDate="2014-03-13T10:59:15.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 1: Mid-race bike change&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cyclocross riders switch bikes mid-race due to build-up of mud and debris and the dirt emulsion which accumulates on braking surfaces. Ideally you would have an assistant to supervise your belongings in the pit/service area and rinse the bike you've returned to prepare it for another bike change later in the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 2: Thicker rim-walls&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some rims claim to have thicker braking surfaces. You may identify these based on the difference between the external rim width and the ETRTO bead width (e.g 622-17 indicates a 17mm bead width)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 3: Brake less&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Improving your cornering at speed so you don't need to brake so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T10:59:15.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18378" CreationDate="2014-03-13T11:54:40.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, there are usually quite easy ways to tell steel from aluminum. As one poster already mentioned, if it's pretty heavy, we can rule out titanium. This leaves us between steel and aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, an aluminum bike will have larger tube diameters due to the properties of the material. On most steel bikes that I've seen, the seat tube is 28.6mm in diameter, while aluminum usually comes in at 31.8 or 34.9. Another heuristic that can be used quickly is the fact that *most* steel bikes use standard round tubes, while aluminum are more likely to be ovalized or shaped. Again, this is not true in all cases (see steel aero craze).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T11:54:40.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19090" CreationDate="2014-03-13T11:59:07.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your model number for the crank is most likely fc-6700 (EDIT: FC-6500). Double check on the inside of the end of the crankarm for this ID. If this is the correct number, just search 'fc-6700 chainring' in your favorite search engine and plenty of product results will show up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastEditorUserId="8918" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T13:11:30.327" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T13:11:30.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20726" CreationDate="2014-03-13T12:10:26.140" Score="2" ViewCount="3743" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new FELT Cyclocross frame and i am looking for a BB30 Crank to go with it.&#xA;I don't really need more more than one chainring, so i end up looking at a lo9t of MTB cranks on eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the CONS of putting a MTB crank on my Cyclocross Bike?&#xA;Any known Problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4333" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T16:35:12.090" Title="MTB Crank on a Cyclocross Bicycle?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16515" CreationDate="2014-03-13T12:17:59.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that the GMC Denali 21 speed uses an HL Aluminum Micro Adjust 27.2 X 300mm, so I assume your seat is very similar to those found on the Denali. In this case you will need a small crescent wrench that will fit between the guts and the side of the saddle. Some bolts are square and will stay put when loosing the nuts, but some are not and might require an opposing wrench on the other side. You only need to loosen each side a half turn and you can slide the seat off the post. The problem is that you will only be able to replace it with similar guts. You might be able to swap out the saddle itself if the rails match, but my recommendation would be to switch the whole saddle/post with a more modern set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b0JWw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T12:17:59.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16515" CreationDate="2014-03-13T13:02:44.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get 2 spanners that fit. Hold the bolts on both sides with the spanners and turn any one side to remove easily.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put it back alternately rotate each side 1 or 2 turns.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Be careful with the tightness, if it's slightly loose you'll experience slight play in the saddle and the micro adjust assembly will soon get worn out. Too tight and you might deform your saddle rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will get a spanner, just look for it in a hardware store or get adjustable ones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar setup on my Bridgestone. Mine was a lot more antiquated as the seat post had a bolt mechanism similar to a handlebar stem :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3062" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T13:02:44.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20721" CreationDate="2014-03-13T13:09:44.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be something that I don't know about, but if the crank fits on the bottom bracket, and if the chainring is reasonably close to the position of a middle ring on a triple chainring setup, then your chain line should be fine and everything should work. A lot of bike targeted at young riders have a single front ring and 7 or 8 gears in the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain line is the most important thing to consider, since you don't want excessive torque on the chain when you are in either the lowest or highest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T13:09:44.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20721" CreationDate="2014-03-13T14:44:56.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only possible drawback[1] to using an MTB crank is that they tend to have a wider stance or Q-factor as it's called. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on Q-factor &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Stance_Width_2562.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Stance_Width_2562.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are also designed to work with a chainline on a 135mm hub vs 130mm road, but that is lost in the noise and doesn't really matter if you are running a single chainring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use an MTB crank on my cross bike and it works just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]- Other than the obvious one of available chainring sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T16:35:12.090" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T16:35:12.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20702" CreationDate="2014-03-13T16:27:45.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure you are properly fitted to the bike, and just ride it. It does not have to be an elaborate formal fitting but a competent bike shop (or very knowledgable biking friend) should look at your posture on the bike and adjust accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to get used to a bike is to go out and ride it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6760" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T16:27:45.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20532" CreationDate="2014-03-13T17:10:42.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, it doesn't but there are some rare pieces that do support three wheels. I just bought one (Shimano 600 Arabesque), I haven't installed it yet, but it seems to fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to Booker for his input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10462" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T17:10:42.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18378" CreationDate="2014-03-13T17:35:27.147" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;To identify a frame firstly see if a magnet sticks, if it does it's steel, if not it's carbon, aluminium alloy or titanium alloy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not steel look down the seat tube if it's metallic inside it could be aliminium or titanium if black and plastic looking, carbon. Tap the frame with a screw driver, aluminium and titanium will have a definite metallic 'tink' and carbon a hollow 'thunk'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tell the difference between alloys put a small scratch in the seat tube (both have good anti-corrosion properties) if the exposed metal is dark and dull silver it's possibly titanium, if light silver it's aluminium. Titanium frames are expensive and rare so not likely to come across one you don't know the pedigree of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For steel there is a significant difference between the two main types of steel, Chromoly and Hi-Ten steel. Chromoly is a stronger and lighter (high carbon) steel and is generally found on mid to high end bikes. If a bike is reasonably modern and chromoly it is likely to have smaller diameter tubes and possibly seat post (although this isn't a good indicator as new steel frames are being produced to fit dropper posts). A chromoly bike may have a sticker on the seat tube from the tube manufacturer be it Reynolds, Tange or Columbus. Tube shape may also vary on higher end frames (my chromoly HT has a triangle top tube and oval down tube). A Hi-Ten frame will mirror the fashion of when the bike was made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few Chromoly frames come as built up bikes so generally if you don't know your riding Chromoly, a magnet sticks to the bike and it's heavy you're riding a Hi-Ten steel bike. The scrap value of the frame is probably worth more than the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T17:52:21.597" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T17:52:21.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-13T18:11:34.317" Score="-2" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need your help.  I am looking for an entry level bike to ride everyday.  I am looking for something to excercise.  I am 6 feet tall and weigh about 240lb.  I want to start slow about 10 miles a day around a park that is grass and cement or riding at the beach again on cement or blacktop.  Eventually I would like to get into longer rides.  Im looking for somehting max price of out the door $350-400(thats even pushing it, but I will if it is going to be worth it).  I do need to get myself in shape.  Any help and recommendations would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10575" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T22:30:28.877" Title="looking for an entry level bike" Tags="&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ClosedDate="2014-03-13T23:46:32.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20730" CreationDate="2014-03-13T22:30:28.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Re- iterating comments- Second hand will offer best value for money. Avoid chain store bikes. Much better to get a use quality bike that is 1/2 worn out than a new cheap and nasty one. I suggest a Hybrid (or Comfort) bike with flat handle bars as a good starter. Road bikes are designed light to go fast at the expense of comfort (experienced riders are used to it). A Mountain bike is another alternate that will work, although not quite as well on paved surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key things are to get the right sized bike. If at all possible get a cyclist mate to help out (ask around work if you don't know of anyone - I am sure someone will step up). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visit a couple of bike shops, I recommend find ones with lots of kids bikes as they know about tight budgets and are used to dealing with inexperienced riders. They may have suitable used bikes, or last year model on big discount. Even if you do not plan to buy from them, you  may need them fro service, so they should be more than happy to talk about your needs and offer advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't spend all your money on the bike. You will need helmet, pump, spare tubes and puncture repair kit (learn how to use these). I strongly recommend padded bike shorts. If skin tight lycra is not your thing, you can get baggies (common with MTB'ers) and even ones that are underwear. Really good shorts are expensive, but even cheaper ones will make a difference to comfort when riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't say what your current fitness level is. Make sure you start out easy, even if you are super fit. Cycling uses different muscles to what you are used to going to hard to quickly usually ends badly. I would say 10 miles a day is too much for the first weeks, but is a good target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be talked into buying a bike for when you are fitter and training for the Tour de.... If you do you will upgrade it before then anyway, but do by a bike that is of reasonable quality.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T22:30:28.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20579" CreationDate="2014-03-14T12:13:50.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, you need to make sure that the top rims of the glasses above the lenses don't get in your line of sight while you have your head pointed downward otherwise you'll suffer neck ache from craning your neck upwards to see out of your glasses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that was the case with non-cycling specific glasses but my Shimano's are just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth keeping in mind as it's not obvious and nobody seems to talk about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T12:13:50.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20740" CreationDate="2014-03-14T14:05:46.973" Score="4" ViewCount="6164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike with a 26/11 9 speed SRAM rear cassette. I cycle in Cambridgeshire on a daily basis and it's very flat. I find that I never use the hardest cog, leave the chainring on the biggest cog and generally find that the jump between gears is a little too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My chainring is a compact 50/34 110mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it gets very windy and I'm forced to have to change to the smaller chainring cog - I guess that means I don't want the big cassette cog to be any less than 26 or so. I'm not a fan of changing between my chainring cog much as it kind of changes everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally if it exists, I guess a 27/14 (do they exist?) or something similar would suit me better... not sure if 27/15 would cut my top speed down too much though.. I find with my current 28/12 I can get over 30mph without spinning out (with lots of room to play). I never go this fast unless I get an amazingly lucky tailwind :) There's no downhill here either!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I have no experience of different cassettes so any guidance from an experienced cyclist would be of great help. I'd like to avoid buying something stupid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;---- UPDATE ----&#xA;In the end I replaced my 9 speed drivetrain with a tiagra 10 speed.. this was fairly involved as I needed quite a few new components: new shifters, cables, derailleur, cassette, also got new chainrings, crank arms, bottom bracket (and pedals as I just couldn't get them off!) One of my reasons for replacing all the old stuff was that it was worn, another was that I recently got a tax rebate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'feel' of this change is apparent and it does seem to help a bit.. however speed wise my new wheels made the biggest difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastEditorUserId="1358" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T09:32:46.937" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T09:32:46.937" Title="Best 9 speed cassette for fast &amp; flat" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-14T15:04:25.010" Score="6" ViewCount="11253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like the idea of enduro racing but I cant currently afford an enduro specific bike.&#xA;Is it acceptable to enter an enduro event on an aggressive XC/trail hardtail mountain bike? Are there any rules against it or would it not be recommended due to the terrain? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10424" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T22:03:23.670" Title="Can I enter an enduro race on a hardtail mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20735" CreationDate="2014-03-14T15:27:31.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, no*, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enduro racing is a hybrid sport, but the timed aspects of it are almost all downhill. As such, you're going to want a bike that can handle that the best, which would most likely be a full suspension frame. There aren't any specific rules (yet) against hard tails, although a few events may dictate no hardtails for their race specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I would consider essential is an adjustable seatpost with a remote, to lower your seat for downhill sections. This would be both for comfort and safety, as well as the speed of not having to climb off, lower/raise seat, get back on and go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you currently have a bike, or are shopping, but the newer rear shocks are designed to help with pedaling, especially on uphill sections without needing a lockout, so even if a majority of your pedaling is on easy trails, it won't hurt to have a full suspension for everyday use, and then be able to use it for enduro as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added: So, yes, you can probably use a hardtail for enduro, however it may not be the best fit, and you run an increased risk of injury and/or frame damage depending on the course, technicality and skill of the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T16:05:43.113" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T16:05:43.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20738" CreationDate="2014-03-14T17:17:31.397" Score="3" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using the same bike lock for a number of years now (one like, but not necessarily exactly the same as, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002KVOVKC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt;). I noticed today that when in the locked position there is quite a bit of jiggle to the bottom bar. This may have always been the case to some extent, but either it's gotten worse or it's just the first time that I've actually ever thought about the implications of it. Is this a security weakness? Does it suggest weakness of the lock to any sort of attack more so than if there isn't a jiggle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correction: The lock I actually have is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FL4Y6K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastEditorUserId="9179" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T17:50:34.690" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T17:50:34.690" Title="Bike lock bar jiggles in locked position -- indicative of weakness?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20737" CreationDate="2014-03-14T17:39:31.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, its a pretty low quality lock to begin with, so I'd go for a better lock to begin with (e.g. Kryptonite Evo Mini 5). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5884/silencing-a-rattling-u-lock&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;. I've found that this jiggling happens over the years anyway to a lock (and a lot of locks do it out of the box), but I don't believe it affects the security significantly on a decent lock. Some locks have little rubber O-rings to prevent the rattling when you're moving it (you can buy some at your hardware store and put them on yourself). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T17:39:31.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20734" CreationDate="2014-03-14T18:05:01.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to note is that depending on the range of the cassette, you may need a different derailleur. Derailleurs come in different cages (short, medium and long - these are marked SS, GS, SGS respectively). These set your chain wrap capacity (and usually tell you what the largest sprocket you can run in the back is), and you can use a longer cage derailleur with a larger cassette (there is no harm in running a longer cage derailleur than you need, other than looking less cool). Luckily, if your derailleur can't take a larger cog in the back, you can just drop in another derailleur from either the road or mountain group of the same manufacturer (for example, if you're running Shimano, you can put a nice Deore SGS 9 speed rear derailleur on if you need a larger cog in the back and your current can't take it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the smallest cog in the back, most people don't use it. It would be good if you specify what kind of spacing your current cassette has. I think for most people who aren't racing, the spacing of cassette that comes on touring bikes is probably adequate (e.g. Shimano HG-50 11-32), and just dealing with it. However, the spacing is probably too big for your liking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k9.shtml#shimano9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list of cassettes&lt;/a&gt; - I think the &quot;Harris Century Special&quot; (a custom cassette) looks good, but it is pricey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Sheldon has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gearing calculator&lt;/a&gt; so you can put in some cadence you try to maintain and see what kind of speeds you hit at that cadence - the drop down has a set of standard cassettes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one of the comments says though, you may want to try changing your chainring spacing instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T18:05:01.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20734" CreationDate="2014-03-14T19:47:55.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that if you have 12-28, you might not have a Shimano 9 spd hub. Generally Shimano road clusters top out at 27t. That sounds more campy-like to me. That's the first thing to figure out. Shimano and SRAM clusters are interchangable, Campy are not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a shimano hub, it's very easy to build 'custom' cassettes with Shimano 9spd parts. It's just not cheap. If you've got the tools to remove the cassette, you can get an 14-25 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-tiagra-hg50-9-speed-road-cassette/rp-prod387&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-tiagra-hg50-9-speed-road-cassette/rp-prod387&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and mix and match with your current cassette to get the gears you want. It may be possible to do the same kind of mix/match with campy 9spd cogs, it's just more expensive. You can get 14-28 campy cassettes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=5047&amp;amp;category=40&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=5047&amp;amp;category=40&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find them, junior racing cassettes are a good solution. Junior racers have gear limitations so they tend to have clustered but lower gears. Currently they only seem to be available for 10 speed cassettes, but you can get 16-27&#xA;cassettes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you poke around enough on the web, you can find small companies like IRD that will make all kinds of custom cassettes. They aren't cheap though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://interlocracing.com/cassettes_steel.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://interlocracing.com/cassettes_steel.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T19:47:55.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20735" CreationDate="2014-03-14T20:52:36.603" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, unless they say no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Spirit of Enduro&quot; is to include all riders, of all abilities, on all bikes. Since there are guys who can ride crazy fast on a hardtail down a downhill trail, you can certainly ride yours in an Enduro race. However, you might be putting yourself at a disadvantage compared to the pro's or if you are looking to be competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you take a carbon-fiber XC race bike to an enduro race, crash, and break the frame, that's your own fault. There is such a thing as having the right tool for the job. Taking an AM hardtail with a more raked-out head angle and med/long travel fork would be the best thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the trail itself and this can vary widly. Within one race I rode trails that were fairly tame, but fast and flowy, to trails that were super steep and loose with a lot square edge rocks and whatnot. An all around trail bike will be a happy medium here. Plus, look at how much climbing you will be doing. A 2 hour pedal to the race start on a mushy 150mm FR bike isn't that fun (trust me, I did it), where as on a hardtail you'll just think of it as a nice warmup!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T20:52:36.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5884" CreationDate="2014-03-14T21:38:13.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lock of the pictured design. The rubber rings at the ends of the U would be perfectly good for the job of pressing against the bar to keep it from rattling, except that they're not close enough to the bar to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used rubber O-rings from the hardware store (found in faucet repair parts) as shims &lt;em&gt;between the original thick rubber rings and the black sleeve over the main body of the U.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of this approach over some of the other suggestions is that you are less likely to get stray material jammed in the interface between the U and the bar, because the supplied rubber rings are thick, close fitting, and otherwise suited for this job — just in need of a little spacer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I originally used plastic cable ties, but those are too wide, have a lump at one point, and eventually failed under sunlight.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1789" LastEditorUserId="1789" LastEditDate="2017-07-28T18:34:12.100" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T18:34:12.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20745" CreationDate="2014-03-15T07:16:38.757" Score="5" ViewCount="17448" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over a year ago I was diagnosed with a collapsed arch in my left foot and despite trying many times I have not been able to get back on the treadmill. I have been thinking of getting a bicycle to start losing the weight that I have put on. I currently weight 240 lbs. I have a couple of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I get a hybrid bike or a mountain bike or a road bike? I have read conflicting views on what is better for weight loss and general fitness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I buy a geared or a non-geared bicycle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not looking to become an expert rider and would probably only ride 3-5 times a week. I just need something that will get me a bit of fresh air and help me loose a bit of fat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10583" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2014-03-15T11:31:23.650" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T17:23:46.150" Title="Type of cycle for losing weight and staying fit for a beginner" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-03-19T22:25:16.343" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20743" CreationDate="2014-03-15T08:40:45.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ask a doctor first if bicycling is appropriate - there is load on your feet on a bicycle. If they say its okay, proceed. Else, don't go cycling (swimming might be a better option, but again, ask a doctor).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy a bike that you use - this means going out and trying some bikes for a decent amount. Different people are suited for different riding styles. Hybrids tend to typically have some mountain bike geometry with some road-ness (e.g. slim 700c wheels) - they're a good choice for people who ride on the road for short distances (like around town). Old rigid mountain bikes also make a good choice on the road. You don't need suspension on the road unless you have back problems and avoid anything thats full suspension. Front is OK but not necessary. Some hybrids have front suspension as well. For a road bike, note that race bikes are intended for racing. Touring bikes, some cyclocross bikes, and commuters make excellent fitness bikes. Most road bikes have drop bars, which are more useful for riding longer distances. Hybrids and mountain bikes will have more upright position than most road bikes, which will help if you have back problems. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of the types of bikes discussed:&#xA;- Hybrid: Trek 7.2fx, Specialized Sirrus (no suspension). Trek 8.3ds , Specialized Crosstrail (light suspension, useful if you have back problems). &#xA;- Old mountain bike: 80s Specialized Hardrock or similar (these are very cheap, and work great on the road with some slicks). &#xA;- Road bike: Trek Crossrip, Specialized Tricross (commuter cyclocross). Trek 520, Surly Long Haul Trucker, Novara Randonee (Touring). Charge Plug, Kona Dew Drop (commuter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1'.You'll ride a bike thats comfortable a lot more than one that isn't, so go for a bike fit at the bike shop. You may need a wider saddle than what comes with most bikes if you weigh 240 pounds and due to possibly other factors you may need some different riding positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Single speeds are nice, but if you're not fit, you're going to be putting in a lot more effort to get up to speed than a geared bike with lower gearing (you have to compromise with a higher starting gear so you have decent cruising). I'd go geared.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to budget for accessories, like helmet, lock, lights. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At 240 pounds, you're close to the limit on some bikes (though they're likely bikes you should avoid - all the bikes I mentioned are designed to take at least 300 lbs AFAIK, but check this out), so make sure to check the manufacturer recommended weights. Avoid fancy racing frames which are designed to be super light, and get some decent sized tires (maybe 700c x 38 or so) to decrease the likelihood of road hazards causing problems and increase comfort. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T08:40:45.807" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20743" CreationDate="2014-03-15T12:37:56.150" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want a geared bike -- not necessarily 50 speeds, but at least 3, preferably 15 or so.  If derailleur-style bikes scare you, there are geared hub bikes available (though they tend to be a bit more expensive).  (But, honestly, there's nothing to be afraid of with a modern derailleur-style bike, if properly maintained.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're only going to be riding on roads and paved trails (which is most likely the case, at least first year or so), the type of bike makes little difference, so long as it fits you appropriately and is comfortable to handle.  (Though at your weight a &quot;full suspension&quot; bike is probably not a good idea, and, in general, even front suspension is not of much use on roads).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mainly you should pick a bike that fits you well and is comfortable.  You need a 10-20 minute ride to really check this out, and any bike shop that won't let you do that (within reason) you should avoid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be wary of the handlebar.  Most bikes are delivered with the handlebar too low, and modern &quot;threadless&quot; front bearing setups require adapters to raise the handlebar to an appropriate height.  Make sure you get the handlebar height set appropriately before you leave the shop, and go back if it seems to need changing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be wary of the seat.  Many &quot;comfort&quot; bikes (which are worth considering) will come with an enormously wide seat, which may seem wise at the beginning but quickly chafes the inner thighs.  You don't want super-narrow, but likely not super-wide either.  (Of course the seat can be changed fairly easily.)  And, while purists sneer at gell-filled seats, they can be more comfortable for rides of intermediate length (over an hour, say), so long as they're not too &quot;squishy&quot;.  Stay away from the pillow-like foam seats, however.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And do get a comfortable helmet (be wary of those with a large visor in front, they often obscure the vision), and whatever lock seems appropriate for your area/needs.  And be sure to get a light set if you ever ride at night -- nice LED light sets are now available quite cheaply.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for shoes, usually a pair of athletic shoes is good for starters -- just avoid anything that's too wide due to lots of extra rubber on the sides of the soles.  Or an old pair of leather shoes will work for starters.  With your arch problem it's probably best to avoid anything with a too-thin, too-flexible sole, but hard-soled bike shoes are probably unnecessary, and could be counter-productive.  (I have polio-weakened ankles and arches and I biked for decades (including several multi-day tours) in plain old &quot;tennis shoes&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop where you buy the bike should give you a free tuneup after the first month or two.  Discuss this when you buy the bike.  If you buy a used bike from a private party most shops will do tuneups for a very nominal fee, often free, just to encourage your business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T12:37:56.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20747" CreationDate="2014-03-15T12:51:55.657" Score="15" ViewCount="24374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have three choices of file format to use for automatic uploads from &lt;a href=&quot;http://abvio.com/cyclemeter/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;my device&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt;: GPX TCX FIT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which if these will provide the best data? Are there other issues that distinguish them — such as accuracy or file size — that I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1683" LastEditorUserId="1464" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T10:12:51.027" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T10:12:51.027" Title="What format should I select for automatic upload to Strava?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;strava&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20746" CreationDate="2014-03-15T14:11:09.383" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;TCX and FIT are designed for fitness activities, so they can contain more fitness data than GPX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eg TCX or FIT supports laps (splits). So your device could record a new lap whenever you press the lap button, or automatically after a set distance, eg every 1km. Also they support pauses, if you want to stop the activity at one point, then start again later. Whereas GPX is essentially just a series of points (with timestamps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure whether Strava actually uses the laps or pauses recorded on the device, I suspect it will recalculate them anyway, based on the GPS points and time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As standard, GPX does not support heart rate, cadence or power data. But this can be added with extensions. The most popular format for these extension was created by Garmin, it is also supported by a variety of other software/websites (including Strava). But some devices might record heart rate/cadence in a different format in the GPX file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TCX or FIT can also contain summary data, for the whole activity. eg the total time, distance, calories, device used, type of sport. Some of this is used by Strava, eg to display the device, or automatically select the activity type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TCX and GPX are both XML formats, which can be fairly inefficient in terms of file size. But this does mean they can be easily edited, eg in a text editor. FIT is a binary format, so is much smaller file size, typically about 1/10 of the size. File size is usually not a problem anyway - even if you are recording at 1 point per second, a 3 hour activity would be about 1MB in GPX format. So not really an issue, unless your device has very limited memory, or a slow internet connection for uploading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in general, you probably won't notice much difference between formats for uploading to Strava. Though TCX or FIT may give you a bit more data. And FIT would be a smaller file size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T14:11:09.383" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20743" CreationDate="2014-03-15T14:36:17.973" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a choice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your tail hung in your chainwheel trying to wrap your brain around all the inexplicably contradicting advice of &quot;serious&quot; cyclists&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go out and get yourself a cheap hardtail BSO MTB and actually start cycling some before you blow a bunch of money on something you're not yet sure you like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really cheap and provides the same exercise as any other bike recommendation, but won't run more than $100 or so (or whatever your currency is -- mine was Y12,000). Since your bike is cheap you can do fun stuff without financial risk, like learning how to take it apart, fitting out some cheapish clipless/push pedals (like these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.jp/SHIMANO-%E3%82%B7%E3%83%9E%E3%83%8E-PD-A530-EPDA530-%E7%89%87%E9%9D%A2SPD%E3%83%9A%E3%83%80%E3%83%AB/dp/B001EIEH0G/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.co.jp/SHIMANO-%E3%82%B7%E3%83%9E%E3%83%8E-PD-A530-EPDA530-%E7%89%87%E9%9D%A2SPD%E3%83%9A%E3%83%80%E3%83%AB/dp/B001EIEH0G/&lt;/a&gt; my favorite for souping up a city bike, cruiser or BSO), new saddle styles and seatpost lengths, or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find out about chains wearing out, the difference between a comfortable tire pressure and a fast tire pressure, how hot breaks can get, how strong your legs can get from sprinting up short steep hills, how cramped/comfortable different seat/handlebar configurations can be, and a million other weird things you just can't know about cycling until you've spent a few hundred hours in the saddle. All without blowing a small fortune to satisfy the vanity of the &quot;real&quot; cyclists who seem to constantly forget that the basic feature set on the lowest MTB BSO today blows away the most extravagant features available on professional bikes in the 80's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTBs also have good gearing for heavy folks to start on -- until you become no-so-heavy. You don't need shocks and all the cool gizmos on newer MTBs if you're going to be on the road trying to get your heart rate up, though -- so give the shiny new stuff with the $4,000 pricetags a pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who say a cheap bike won't last long, I'm proof that this is simply not true -- I've got 3 BSOs, two of which are nearing 10,000km, all of which are demonstrating vastly superior drivetrain durability than my (enormously) more expensive road and crossbikes. Most of the price difference is defined in terms of weight, not features (except in extreme cases). Just about everything on a bike is wear-outable anyway, so as bits break either upgrade old components (and learn a huge amount about how bikes work in the process) or buy new bikes if your budget can afford it (and still learn a lot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10587" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T14:36:17.973" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20743" CreationDate="2014-03-15T17:23:46.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well guess I'm a bit too late since the original poster already picked out a bike but for future visitors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to get a Hybrid bike of medium quality. Starting out you're probably not going to feel comfortable on the road, so having a bit of suspension will make for much nicer sidewalk riding. The tires will also be able to handle your weight and the curbs and such better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that though spend what you have to for the bike and helmet, then get yourself a good Heart Rate Monitor watch. Also get a cheap food scale and signup for MyFitnessPal on your computer / smart phone. Even if you only use the food scale and app for two solid weeks you'll learn a ton! If your goal is weight loss this is far more important then what the frame is. You can get your heart rate up on any bike, and you can crawl along slowly on any bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you ride the hybrid for a while then you'll have a better idea of what you enjoy doing and how you like riding. Do you wish to be able to ride on the road and get more aerodynamic? Road bike it is. Do you like stopping for a healthy snack? Maybe stick with Hybrid or get a commuter. Did you find yourself wanting to get off the paved paths entirely then get a mountain bike. For now though just get yourself a hybrid (which it looks like you already did), a helmet, a food log (myfitnesspal), and a heart rate monitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8397" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T17:23:46.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20763" CreationDate="2014-03-15T19:12:14.587" Score="15" ViewCount="3313" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is it that some triathlon bikes have a seat post that adjusts straight up and down instead of the more standard axis that aims at the bottom bracket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that if you raise (or lower) the seat on the special triathlon bikes, the torso/leg angle would change more than for a normal bike, right?  Doesn't this also mean that the straight-up vertical adjustment of these special triathlon bikes do not fit as wide a range of riders as if the seatpost adjusted in a way that kept the same torso/leg angle along the axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; about triathlon bike geometry or efficiency of peddling.  Rather it asks about why the displayed vertical seatpost adjustment axis is used instead of a more standard adjustment axis for seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a tri bike with the vertical seatpost:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e9ojb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a more standard bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tMuWn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2014-03-18T15:53:56.477" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T15:53:56.477" Title="Why do some triathlon seatposts go straight up and down instead of at an angle?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20717" CreationDate="2014-03-16T11:02:06.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pay attention when buying brake pads. For me, salmon Kool Stops have worked for winter commuting. The things to look for are some kind of plow-like design that directs mud away instead of packing it between pad and rim and rubber compound that does not embed debris easily. The latter is hard to find by just looking :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T11:02:06.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19040" CreationDate="2014-03-16T14:48:45.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For two years, I've commuted on my Metrix 20 (8 miles each way Brooklyn &amp;lt;-&gt; Manhattan) and honestly there is nothing from the original bike that I can see that was weak or flawed from the beginning. The answers provided are good tips for any bike owner. I'd follow their advice and tweak for your own personal needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10596" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T14:48:45.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20750" CreationDate="2014-03-16T15:08:07.490" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Triathlon bikes are about one thing, and one thing only. Aerodynamics. Dan Empfield, the creator of the Quintana Roo brand, recognized this early on. Cervelo came along soon after, and their designs basically changed how time trial bikes are viewed, with their breakthrough design of the P3 in 2001 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/company.html&quot;&gt;Company history here&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This P3 design evolved, and there are a few models such as your pictured Giant that have completely vertical seatposts. Many other bikes don't have this, but do approach vertical, as the frame geometry is completely different than a road bike with the purpose of allowing a rider to ride more forward on the bike, bent over with arms in the aerobars. You will also see much different clothing (esp for road racers) as time trial suits are also designed with aerodynamic considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time trial fit is very much a science as well as an art form. These include the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slowtwitch.com/Bike_Fit/F.I.S.T._Tri_bike_fit_system/The_F.I.S.T._Method_for_fitting_triathletes_to_their_bikes_16.html&quot;&gt;F.I.S.T. method&lt;/a&gt; (Also developed by Dan Empfield), &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.retul.com/&quot;&gt;Retul&lt;/a&gt;, which are two of the most popular, but there are a couple others as well. They look at such things as upper body angle, hip angle, leg angles at top dead center and bottom dead center (TDC, BDC), forearm to bike angles, etc etc. A very minor change in seat position can have profound effects on aerodynamics, comfort and power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also see some different frames and components in the triathlon world than you will in the road race world, because as always, the UCI (governing body for cycling) has very strict rules for time trial bikes and components, and some of the items used in triathlons are not allowed for road time trial events. For example, Cervelo's latest model, the P5, has two different forks, one which is legal and one which is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T15:08:07.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-16T19:42:50.670" Score="7" ViewCount="3837" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ikea-kvartal-easy-unobtrusive-137753&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/ikea-kvartal-easy-unobtrusive-137753&lt;/a&gt; was done? Do I need to get them into studs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some photos of my laundry room, I thought it would fit length wise but because of the water heater it doesn't. I'm trying to figure out another solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FwTkb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the wall I was hoping it would fit across:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jI3uZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PiHL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the wall I think I think the Kvartal method or something similar could work on. Without someone to take the photo for me I couldn't get one, but if I bring the bike up so the handlebars and seat are against this little corner piece then it does fit before the water heater (similar to the kvartal link). I'm just concerned because the stud on the inner side is too close to the corner for the handlebars so I wouldn't be able to drill into a stud.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9xRq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think doing it without being in studs will work? Or anyone have another idea that might work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I was going to try using instead of those actual Ikea pieces - Blue Hawk Large Storage Hanger from Lowes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Fcg7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8397" LastEditorUserId="8397" LastEditDate="2014-03-16T21:06:25.367" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T09:41:12.450" Title="Bicycle Storage: Does Kvartal method need studs (or other suggestions)?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20755" CreationDate="2014-03-16T20:24:51.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is a typical drywall and wood stud wall, you could do one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Use a toggle-type hollow wall anchor like this &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HCGho.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hollow Wall Anchor&quot;&gt;&#xA;Use two on each bracket, make sure to drill the holes cleanly, and don't over tighten or you will crush the drywall between the bracket and toggle. This would be the cleanest and quickest way to do this, but for heavier bikes you risk pulling a huge chunk of drywall out so I'd recommend method two... (I'd especially avoid using any sort of hollow wall anchors to suspend anything from a ceiling.) ((Also, given the proximity to your breaker panel, I'd avoid drilling large holes willy-nilly unless you're sure the wiring is out of the way. Method two shouldn't cause a problem.))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Procure a three foot length of 2&quot;x3&quot; (or other dimensional lumber) and using 4&quot; deck screws secure it across a pair of studs. If you're lucky the studs will be 16&quot; apart right where you need them. In any case, I'd recommend a quality stud finder (again, because of the electrical panel being right there I'd avoid drilling random holes and poking around for studs - in any other room this wouldn't be as big of an issue). This will allow you to fasten either your linked Ikea brackets, or use large plastic coated lag hooks which will cost much less. Be sure to drill pilot holes for the lag hooks so you don't split the wood. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GMM2d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lag Hooks&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3844" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T20:24:51.190" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20755" CreationDate="2014-03-16T21:02:05.957" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the Kvartal question: no, but in practice if you don't have studs it will be fragile and over time you're likely to pull the screws loose or right out of the wall. If the rack doesn't match up with your studs use a backing board attached to studs and you'll be fine - even a length of 1x4&quot; timber would probably be enough. Don't use any of the processed woods (particle board, chipboard, MDF) as they're not strong enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy option is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=bicycle%20stand%20lean%20on%20wall&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;stand that leans on the wall&lt;/a&gt;, since that doesn't require any holes in the wall at all. The disadvantage is that they tend to move around and mark the wall unless you anchor them in place. But that anchor can be quite weak, a drywall anchor will be fine. I haven't seen one designed to hold the bike vertically, but I suspect you could buy one that would be easy enough to modify one to hold the handlebars rather than the top tube (the one shown it looks as though you could bend the bars in so the hooks are closer together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q18kF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;leaning bicycle stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As WTHarper says, if you can find studs but they're not in the right place, the better approach is to attach a solid bit of lumber across the wall, screwed to the studs, then attach the bike rack to that. If the wall is painted I'm am not a fan of the screw-in hooks, inevitably the bike ends up pressing on the wall and marking it. Better to buy a proper suspended rack and hang the bike on that. Or make your own, add a second cross piece lower down to brace on and a couple of timber triangles will work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a heap of very pretty &lt;a href=&quot;http://hiconsumption.com/2013/09/14-best-space-saving-bike-rack-solutions-for-apartments/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DIY solutions here&lt;/a&gt;, you could do this one with a couple of bits of 2x4&quot; at each end if you don't want to spend the time on shelves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uit8L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bicycle rack shelf&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you want a vertical stand something like this might work, and could even be arranged so the saddle doesn't (quite) touch the wall. That would make it less likely that you'd mark the wall. (As Daniel says, this is the same idea as the Kvartal holder you're asking about)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/syWyx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;vertical holder&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky this will fit on the short wall behind the door, otherwise it'll block off half the room. Note that I'm suggesting wheels-out so the dirty parts are in the middle of the room. You might prefer to mark the wall rather than have wet, dirty wheels in the middle of the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IME drywall screws will not work, drywall just isn't structural. The electrical panel right there also gives me pause, even hooking a cable with a drywall screw could be bad (either by pulling the sharp edge of the screw through the insulation, or just pinching the cable and starting a fire). But mostly, to work well enough to hold even a light bicycle you'd need to carefully arrange them to get the forces right, otherwise you're going to tear the hole  or rip one out of the wall. Screwing a board to the studs, then the rack to the board is a better solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last question: does it fit in this way round? I assume you've tried, but if that works it's the least effort option. You might want to tape a bit of card to the wall where the front tyre hits and by the rear axle (and rear tyre) if it does work.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kyBzZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;bike wedged in&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Another Option: &#xA;Would this fit on the wall beside the door? If so, then if there is no stud where it needs to be mounted, place a length of wood between the door and corner, screw that into the wall studs and mount the hook anywhere you like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QCyez.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-03-16T22:51:22.080" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T22:51:22.080" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20755" CreationDate="2014-03-16T21:40:14.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put your bike in with the rear wheel behind the water heater; it will fit further into the room that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another zero cost option is to take the front wheel off, but that could become a pain if your bike has (as most bikes seem to these days) &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index/5584#5584&quot;&gt;lawyer lips&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA; (Thanks for the link @Ӎσᶎ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another low cost option is to use (sorry, no pictures) the 3M (or similar) adhesive velcro patches that are designed for hanging pictures. I recently installed some in a friend's house that were rated at 10kg (that's more than that carbon bike weighs). They have the advantage of being removable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But whatever you do, you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to post an answer showing you solution :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T22:19:33.747" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16874" CreationDate="2014-03-16T21:44:00.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Degreaser or brake cleaner should be just fine on the disks. I've had success with just rinsing pads in boiling water - the heat drives off the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T21:44:00.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17031" CreationDate="2014-03-16T22:20:55.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to replace the entire crankset; just the rings. But since the time and effort you put in to seeking and buying the rings of the right bolt circle diameter (BCD; the size of the circle of the bolts that connect the chainrings to the 'spider'), which for your cranks is 110 for the middle and largest ring, and 74 for the inner ring. You might find it simpler to source an entire replacement crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of teeth is up to you, but don't go way outside what you originally had otherwise you run into problems like chain length. However, when one replaces chainrings, it is often time to replace the chain, and cassette too. You should check the wear of the chain by either using a chain testing tool (you can get them on ebay for about 6 bucks) or by using a ruler. Two links should be exactly 1 inch, so over 24 links you might see some stretch if it goes beyond 12 inches. Just what is acceptable stretch you will have to google, but certainly there's the risk of your chain not fitting on the new chainring if the chain and the old chainrings wore each other out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, a chain is replaced first, and then every perhaps 4 or 5 chains, if you replace it on time, you will need to replace your cassette. Then, after maybe 4 cassettes, your chainrings will also need to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you replaced the chain and cassette recently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the new rings need not be biopace, but if you do get biopace, follow the instructions closely on installation, because they go in a certain orientation with respect to the spider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10557" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T22:20:55.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20755" CreationDate="2014-03-17T08:27:32.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the internal construction of your wall (mine are aerated concrete block with plasterboard - aka drywall - linings, so have something reasonably solid not far behind the plasterboard) you might be able to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.screwfix.com/p/multi-monti-flanged-hex-head-shield-anchors-10-x-80mm-pack-of-25/34665?kpid=34665&amp;amp;cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&amp;amp;gclid=CMbPz7CSmb0CFQUIwwod2zYAPw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;multi-monti&lt;/a&gt; screws, or something similar.  These screws cut a thread into the (more) solid material behind the plasterboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T08:47:41.070" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T08:47:41.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20750" CreationDate="2014-03-17T12:29:47.390" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;To crudely simplify things, a triathlon/TT bike position is much the same as a road position, but basically &amp;quot;rotated forward&amp;quot;, so your arms rest atop the very-low-set bars. A consequence of this is, the seat ends up further forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i6qbW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Position as it rotates forward&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/bikefit.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Chris Froome's TT position as an example, noting the hip position versus the bottom-bracket position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/5w7nEWi.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Chris Froome TT vs Road position&quot; /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://resources2.news.com.au/images/2013/07/11/1226677/446730-chris-froome.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source 1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://universalsports.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/070913_tdf_01_lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source 2&lt;/a&gt; - I couldn't find a good side-on picture for the road-position, so it has quite a lot of skewing to align to the TT-position picture)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/bikefit.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Proper Bike Fit for Triathletes&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; article has a vastly more detailed explanation (and is the source of the first diagram!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't this also mean that the straight-up vertical adjustment of these special triathalon bikes do not fit as wide a range of riders as if the seatpost adjusted in a way that kept the same torso/leg angle along the axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the frame is roughly the correct size, the tri bike should be just as adjustable as a road-bike, if not more..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the tri bike image in your question - the saddle rails cover around 3/4 of the length of the saddle, allowing a greater range of movement forward/backwards (compared to the road bike, where the rail often covers less than half of the saddle)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the aero-bars are much more adjustable than standard drop-bars (which are mostly limited to stem-length adjustments). Aero-bars can potentially be moved quite far forward or backwards (although at some point you will hinder steering/stability)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T12:29:47.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13900" CreationDate="2014-03-17T15:06:19.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have repaired my Shimano free wheel or other like it and I will tell you how. An effective way to check or repair the inside of the free wheel is to learn first how to assemble and disassemble it and here is the video how&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/wCG7f6naJsQ?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large magnet will help catch the tiny buger sized bearings if carefully placed under the freewheel while loosening the lockring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no spanner tool is available you can use a hammer and a pointless concrete nail (use your imagination to figure out how to make the concrete nail less pointy using the hammer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To open it with hammer and concrete nail, place the pointless nail in the shallow hole in the lockring pointing downward close to 45 degrees, then gently tap it rapidly with the hammer. Remember the lock ring loosens at clock wise. Just loosen it but don't remove the lockring completely yet or else removing the freewheel impatiently will scatter buger bearings all over the floor. The overall number of those bearings is less than 60 I guess. After loosening it only enough to be removed by dialing it like a rotary phone place the magnet under the freewheel. You can now remove the freewheel (BE AWARE THAT THE BEARING MIGHT SCATTER LIKE A BIG BANG THEORY) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place it in the table with a towel, remove the lockring, spray it with WD 40 then magnet the bugerbearings on the top. Remove the thin spacer then the spring and sprawls, soak them in WD 40 or kerosene. Wipe it clean. After ALL the free wheel parts are completely free of any liquids and dirt you can now put the grease in. This has to be a Grade 3 lithium grease. Make sure all the internal parts are covered in grease not too thin and not too thick – make sure that the parts can move freely (because too much grease will make the sprawl stick to the inner freewheel and prevent it to do its function) after properly placing the sprawls and springs and spacer. For the bearings you already know where to put them the problem is just, how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your index finger and thumb greased pick up the new bearing and roll it like a buger to cover it in grease then stick it to its rightful place in the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all the bearings in place put it back in the external freewheel.&#xA;While forcing the internal freewheel in, rotate the outer freewheel clockwise so the sprawls would not interfere.&#xA;Just put in the spacer, tighten the lock ring and there you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to me to make detailed video email me johnromeinphoenxguinto@yahoo.com&#xA;I will make it really short and  really detailed as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10605" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T21:36:31.357" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T21:36:31.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18616" CreationDate="2014-03-17T15:17:11.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes water might got in the freewheel and partially removed the grease, therefore causing the sprawls to wore out and weaken the spring inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The source of the noise might be the worn out bearings going out of place jamming the sprawls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relubing it after a year or if you want it to be silent, you can clean and relube it using Grade 3 lithium grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10605" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T08:21:40.453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T08:21:40.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20768" CreationDate="2014-03-17T15:47:29.367" Score="1" ViewCount="1196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking in changing my v-brakes to disc brakes.&#xA;Now that my rear v-brake can't brake anymore I think that it is time change it.&#xA;I've already seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16362/how-do-i-know-whether-my-bike-can-use-disk-brakes&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;. My frame is prepared for disc and, as I don't want to change my brake lever, I'll go with mechanical brakes (does &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Avid-BB7-Mountain-Mechanical-Disc-Brake-Front-Rear-Caliper-HS1-160mm-Rotor-/191078659421?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;amp;var=&amp;amp;hash=item2c7d2cf55d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; look ok?);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is the rear wheel hub that has not the six holes for the disk. Is it ok if I just change the rear wheel hub and keep the front one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10573" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2017-04-16T12:39:38.850" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T12:39:38.850" Title="Adapt V-brakes bicycle to disk brakes" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20750" CreationDate="2014-03-17T16:47:33.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to aerodynamics, not yet mentioned is the benefit to your running off the bike. By changing the seat angle, you use your muscles differently and can run faster off the bike than a more traditional seat post angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/seatangle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt;, test subjects were about 5 minutes faster in a 40k/10k Brick (stationary bike/treadmill run). There was some time savings in the bike (even indoors on a trainer), but the biggest time savings was the first half of the 10k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T16:47:33.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20766" CreationDate="2014-03-17T17:01:04.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, the front brake is more important if not as important as the rear brake, so you'd be better off swapping to a front disc (plus, if you are buying genuine Avid BB7's, they're sold as a front and rear kit IIRC). If you don't have a disc ready wheelset, you just need to get a disc ready wheel set (the front wheel is relatively cheap compared to a rear wheel) - I don't really see the point of reusing a rim in this case, since it will likely not be cost effective [and I never approve of reusing spokes]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check the condition of the levers and use new cables + cable housing when replacing the brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. It is spelled &quot;brake&quot;, not &quot;break&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that this will all be significant in cost relative to putting on a new V-brake (Avid Single Digit 5's are under 20 dollars a piece. If you put in a new FR-5 lever and new cable housing and cable, you'll still be under 40 dollars - this may be a better option if you were satisfied with v-brake performance [obviously, you can opt for better V-brakes, pads and levers for not much more, but the point still stands that a good V-brake is significantly cheaper than a disc conversion, and decent levers really aren't that expensive]. Make sure this replacement is economical on the bike you're using - in some cases, with cheaper disc-ready frames, you're actually better off selling the current bike and getting something with disc brakes on it already!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T17:09:19.427" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T17:09:19.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18824" CreationDate="2014-03-17T19:46:40.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether disc brakes are better or not, depends on what application you plan on using them for. Road bike? Mountain bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mountain bike use and possibly even a commuter bike, yes, disc brakes will be much better. They can provide more power, better control and they can &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; be easily modulated. They will almost always be better in rain and wet weather, which I think it one of the main advantages of using disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side of the coin, if this is your first time switching to a disc brake setup, then you will have something new to learn in terms of maintenance and brake adjustments. Of course, anything can be learned... Disc brakes will also weigh a bit more than traditional rim brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I will always go with a bike with discs. Reason being, is that I know they will always work, no matter the conditions. They are reliable and provide the confidence that I need when I am riding a bike, whether on the road or on the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8655" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T19:46:40.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20775" CreationDate="2014-03-17T19:56:04.387" Score="4" ViewCount="6663" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the Osprey raptor 10 or 14 litre hydration packs. Does anyone have any experience with these, and can suggest whether there is a significant advantage in the extra capacity offered by the 14? Will be using it for day-long rides as well as trail centres, so something that can carry tools, phone, food, an extra layer while still being light and comfortable to wear is essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3670" LastEditorUserId="3670" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T20:42:04.820" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T10:06:03.880" Title="Backpack size - 10L vs 14L" Tags="&lt;bags&gt;&lt;hydration&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18275" CreationDate="2014-03-17T20:02:24.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deciding whether or not to replace the fork or to service it, is a question only you can answer. You'll have to calculate how much it will cost to repair vs how much a new fork is. Take into consideration that your fork is a decade old now and that the chances of it breaking will only increase as time goes on. Parts will also be hard to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the springs are worn, you will most likely notice changes in the compression and rebound characteristics of the fork. A worn spring doesn't mean that something else will break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can replace the springs yourself on most forks. Chances are, if you can buy/find a spring, you will be able to replace it. You might need a large socket/wrench for the top cap, but you should be able to do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8655" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T20:02:24.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20778" CreationDate="2014-03-17T20:35:57.790" Score="0" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking to buy the new Whyte T-129s. Other bikes I've looked at (Trek Remedy, Orange 5, Lapierre Zesty) have 140+mm of travel whereas the Whyte only has 120. Will this be an issue for riding off large drops and over rocky descents? In other respects (fit, looks, spec, price) the Whyte seems fine, but concerned as to how capable it is going to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3670" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T23:27:29.330" Title="Can big drop-offs and rocky descents be handled by 29er with 120mm" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20770" CreationDate="2014-03-17T20:48:15.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It entirely depends on where you ride, weather conditions and how long you are out for. Your tolerance for discomfort an risk comes into it. e.g. If you are one hour riding time from the nearest road and you bike breaks, you break an arm, or  leg...... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigger pack carries more stuff. You want to carry the smallest amount possible, but still have room for the food, water tools, first aid kit, kitchen sink and warm cloths you need (not want). Note that if you have  bag bigger than needed you will fill it with stuff you don't need.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smaller backpack is better, provided everything fits in. It sits better on your back and is less obtrusive, moving around less and usually more comfortable. therefore get the smallest that will carry the stuff you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T20:48:15.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20779" CreationDate="2014-03-17T21:09:03.773" Score="1" ViewCount="1536" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I'm running a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/shimano-saint-hub-front-m810/rp-prod31678&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Saint 810 front hub&lt;/a&gt; and fork Lyrik coil 20mm. I've a good offer on a brand new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manitoumtb.com/products/forks/mattoc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manitou Mattoc 2014&lt;/a&gt;. But this fork uses 15mm axle. I'm looking for an adapter to be able to use this fork with the saint 20mm hub. I've looked everywhere, forums, online stores, etc, no luck so far. Seems I will need to change the hub and rebuild the wheel. Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4688" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T22:52:54.263" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T23:42:28.157" Title="Adaptor for 20mm Shimano saint 810 hub to 15mm?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;&lt;through-axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20770" CreationDate="2014-03-17T21:23:44.070" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.camelbak.com/mule/d/1009&quot;&gt;Cambelbak MULE&lt;/a&gt; which has about &lt;strong&gt;11l of pack capacity&lt;/strong&gt;. I found that this is quite enough for day-long rides, far from any roads. I packed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tools&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;patch kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a spare tyre sometimes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some food (energy bars and similar low-volume-high-yield food)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;small first aid kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rain jacket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a warm undershirt if necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fullface helmet could be strapped to the outside on long ascents. If you're feeling adventurous, you'll even get full size shin/knee guards strapped to the side of the pack, but then it will be a little unwieldy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't need to attach your helmet to the pack, you can roll up clothes and attach them around the sides and upper edge of the pack using the four compression straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware of one thing: If you fill the bladder up to the maximum, the back of the pack will bulge out, reducing comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T21:23:44.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20770" CreationDate="2014-03-17T21:25:35.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 10 liter has enough room for your tools and also a coat, a snack or two, and probably a shirt and a few other small items. If you're not worried about bringing much else, you'll probably be fine with the 10. Even if you are going to need to bring an entire change of clothes or more food, the 14 liter isn't really going to make much of a difference, in that case you'd be better off starting to think about 18 or 20 liters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T21:25:35.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20772" CreationDate="2014-03-17T23:27:29.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 120mm 29er with Trail geometry would allow riding down large drops and rock descents and the shorter travel will also allow for sharper turning radius than a longer travel bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of 120mm 29&quot; bikes have been designed in the last few years to have a trail orientated geometry that is more progressive than that of 29&quot; XC bikes (such as the Whyte T129 and the Specialized Camber EVO). They are designed for similar riding that you'd expect on 140mm/150mm 26&quot;. 29ers do not need as much travel as the wheels allow for a lot more compliance over rocks and roots. The ride won't be twitchy like an XC bike but it will be closer to the feel of a hard tail than an all mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;29&quot; wheels may suffer more with more aggressive riding but this has to be balanced with the other advantages of wagon wheels. If stock wheels need replacing you can get a sturdier set to suit your riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend a 29&quot; if you were expecting to do any big jumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T23:27:29.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20774" CreationDate="2014-03-17T23:42:28.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;20mm hubs have an axle width of 110mm whereas a 15mm thru axle is 100mm. This means that there is no backwards compatibility on the hub unless it was already designed that way (such as Hope 2 hubs). The M810 is simply too wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to replace the front hub at least to run a 15mm TA fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T23:42:28.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18824" CreationDate="2014-03-18T04:44:54.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pros of disk brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modulation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not affected by dirt and water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;long lasting brake pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons of disk brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complexity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost of brake pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower maintainability (in case of hydraulic brake system)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros of rim brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightweight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to maintain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper brake pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons of rim brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bit lower power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bit lower modulation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor operation in hard weather conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, rim brakes is preferable for commuting, road racing and the disk ones - for long descents, heavy loaded bikes and dirty roads/trails. &#xA;Good rim brake (no matter, V-brake or cantilever, or road brakes) are enough to stop in almost all situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastEditorUserId="6595" LastEditDate="2014-03-18T08:21:19.207" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T08:21:19.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20782" CreationDate="2014-03-18T12:49:51.023" Score="8" ViewCount="2269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new (old) bicycle, and I am in the process of disassembling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I arrived to the bottom bracket (with a cottered crank), and unscrewed the ring without problems, but then I'm faced with a part that I don't think I've seen before (circled in yellow in the picture below, the part next to the frame with the threads and a strange &quot;groove&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q8L6X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've disassembled several BB, but this is new to me (normally I have a nut and unscrew it, I bet this may be another kind of nut), and I don't know if this can be removed and how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this something that I can unscrew, and does anyone know of the technique/tools to do it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(By the way, the other side has the same part, but as far as I can see there is no thread (visible at least))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T13:39:47.343" Title="Bottom bracket removal, what is this part?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20781" CreationDate="2014-03-18T13:34:12.750" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a bottom bracket cup. There are specialty tools you can use to remove it such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools/bottombracket.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;HCW-11 on this page&lt;/a&gt;, or if it isn't rusted in, you can probably accomplish the same with an adjustable crescent wrench.  Under there are some ball bearings, so make sure you don't lose any when you open it up.  The bearings should be in a cage, which would stop you from losing them, but with an older and worn bike such as the one shown in the picture, the bearing cage may be broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m2hPl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T13:34:12.750" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20781" CreationDate="2014-03-18T13:39:47.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the «cup-and-cone» bb type. This means the part you have unscrewed is the lockring, and the mystery part is a bb cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type off bb is very like to cone-based hubs (like Shimano ones).&#xA;You can use vise (bolt clamp) to operate with this type of bb, but be careful if you want to put it back after disassembling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vrIYC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cup and cone BB&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T13:39:47.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20793" CreationDate="2014-03-18T17:13:29.220" Score="1" ViewCount="7194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pumped my cycle front tyre to 105 psi (700*23c) 5 days back and cycled some 60 km on the same day without any punctures. Afterwards I parked the cycle in my bedroom for the last 5 days (due to security reasons I always park them in my bedroom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today in the evening the cycle tyre burst and I don't know for what reason. The burst occurred on the middle of the tyre and since not only the tube but also the tyre burst it couldn't be a slow puncture. The temperature in the room would have hardly reached 30 degree Celsius. I have ridden a total of about 4000 km and the tube-tyre set is from the manufacturer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the reason for this and how to prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T16:52:42.117" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T17:54:52.167" Title="Cycle tyre and tube burst" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20785" CreationDate="2014-03-18T18:26:00.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll second that this was probably just not your lucky day and you probably couldn't have done anything reasonable to prevent it (assuming the wheel, tube itself is in good condition and the tire was properly inflated to begin with). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the ferry that PeteH mentions, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weather.com/activities/driving/slideshow/hot_car.html?page=5&amp;amp;scheme=image-horiz-plain.css&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ambient temperature may have been much higher than the outside temperature&lt;/a&gt;. Lets consider cars. In 90 F (32 C) weather, the interior of a car can be easily 120F (49 C) - 140F (60 C). Using the ideal gas law, PV = n RT, we see that if we fix the number of air molecules (n) and volume of the tire (V) [Obviously, the tire gets a little bigger when it gets hotter, but lets neglect that], and move from pressure and temperature (P1,T1) to (P2,T2) where temperature is in Kelvin, P2 = P1 (T2/T1). So, assuming that the tire was pumped at 32 C and was left in a car and reached 60 C, its pressure would go up about 9% (so a 105 PSI tire at 32 C would be at around 115 PSI at around 60C). Still, in the ferry case (where the temperatures would likely be lower than in a closed car), most likely a case of bad luck since you can often &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;exceed the marked maximum tire pressure&lt;/a&gt; (which is likely ~120 PSI for a 700x23c tire). Note that tires also heat up while riding, though, but the testing is likely for significantly higher temperatures anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9C06E6D81331F931A15754C0A9669D8B63&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nice piece from the NY times&lt;/a&gt; which seems to indicate it might be tube conditioning or a jarring temperature effect if you pump and ride at drastically different temperatures [70F inside -&gt; 150F roads (if the tire reached 150F, thats around a 15% increase according to ideal gas predictions]. I don't have a figure for how much a tire heats up in &quot;typical&quot; riding, but clearly, there is likely a significant design margin for pressure and material properties for that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T18:26:00.740" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-18T18:36:58.043" Score="3" ViewCount="9549" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is is possible to calculate stack and reach for framesize 63?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yVpIR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5450" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T08:28:15.740" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T08:28:15.740" Title="Calculate frame stack and reach" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;math&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13874" CreationDate="2014-03-18T18:48:58.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They sell galvanized bolts in almost every shape and size. or find some cosmoline and thin it with mineral oil. Give them a bath after you wire brush them. They will last for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10616" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T12:33:35.023" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T12:33:35.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9307" CreationDate="2014-03-18T21:31:56.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the exact same bike with the exact same problem. Took it back to Walmart to have it repaired. Same problem after I picked it up. Sounds like they just created a defective product and need to do a recall. Sucks because it's such a beautiful bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10617" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T13:35:03.153" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T13:35:03.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20791" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-03-19T02:48:03.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preventive maintenance is distinct from maintenance in that it's done before any problem is evident. Rather than oiling your chain only when it's squeaky, preventive maintenance means oiling it regularly. The is more common with commuting and touring cyclists, who often have daily and weekly maintenance checklists (usually in their head). Check the brakes, lights and speedo every time they get on the bike, sit down every weekend and check the tyre pressure, oil the chain, adjust the gears, check the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T11:26:32.253" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T11:26:32.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20792" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-03-19T02:48:03.503" Score="0" Body="Servicing things before they break, so they're less likely to fail at all." OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T03:09:33.717" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T03:09:33.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20785" CreationDate="2014-03-19T04:56:38.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the actual tire has burst, I think &lt;strong&gt;the most likely cause&lt;/strong&gt; is that over the course of the 4000km you have ridden, the tire has suffered a cut or other damage that you did not previously notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While sitting in your room, the pressure of the tube has gradually stretched the damaged area, and then burst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the other tire to check for cuts or severe wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T04:56:38.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20803" CreationDate="2014-03-19T10:52:08.197" Score="2" ViewCount="7403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://worldleaks.com/fastest-pedal-powered-bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; guy called Jason Rourke breaking the record of 112.94mph (181km/h) on his bicycle. I wish I could have such a bicycle to ride, but I have never ridden a racing bicycle with gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use the bicycle for the 26-30mi commute that I do everyday and if it is a racing bike it could potentially save time. But I have some doubts/questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do these cycles really produce speed of around 60 - 70 km/h? If so, where could I get them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are these stable at these high speeds of about 50km/h?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T13:34:25.993" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T01:27:36.797" Title="Speed and comfort of a racing bicycle?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20795" CreationDate="2014-03-19T11:28:24.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the first question answer is «Not». The problem is air resistance, starting from 40-45 km/h it's like a wall. For every addition to you speed you'll spend more and more power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second — 50 km/h (and even more) is a normal speed for descents on a road bike. This bikes is pretty controllable on such speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T11:28:24.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20801" CreationDate="2014-03-19T13:20:44.400" Score="6" ViewCount="9528" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a bike trailer with the hitch attached to the rear axle. The frame of my wife's bike frame is part carbon (right around the rear axle), which I understand is more brittle than other materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think most forces associated with accelerating and braking go through the wheel and would not affect the frame much. Do I need to be concerned anyways? Does anybody have experience with a carbon frame and a trailer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10483" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T15:15:06.717" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T18:16:29.400" Title="Do I need to be concerned about a carbon frame if I attach a bike trailer?" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20795" CreationDate="2014-03-19T13:24:08.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guy Martin is obviously a decent cyclist, but you should note that his record-breaking ride occurred under very special conditions. For starters, he built his own frame (or rather Jason Rourke built it for him). Next, he chose exactly where the run would take place - on sand flats. And not least he was towed in order to get up towards top speed, which dramatically reduced air resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these things make comparing his ride to how you would ride, like comparing apples and oranges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get an idea of speed, you'd probably get more from looking at professional road racers. These guys will typically ride at speeds of maybe 40+ km/h. Put them on specialist time trial bikes and they will top 50km/h. And these are average speeds - you can imagine that gradient, wind and the ability to slipstream will be factors plus or minus. Certainly when descending, the 70km/h you mention is not all that much for them - I myself have gone at more than this speed and lived to tell the tale (I am far from being a fast rider).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you need to bear a couple of things in mind. First, these people are professional athletes, which immediately sets them apart from the rest of us, their bodies are something south of 5% fat, and you can see that the muscles they have developed for cycling are disproportionately large. Second, the bikes the pros ride, a ballpark estimate of cost would be maybe $15000 - which buys you a lot of lightness. The typical weight of one of these bikes I'd guess is no more than 6 or 7 kilos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transpose all of this to you. As regards the roads you ride, how good will they be? Basically, the smoother the road, the faster you'll travel. If you had a road bike, how light would it be? Plus there's you - how fast would your legs take you? These are all factors that would affect how fast you could ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In answer to your specific points, as I said 60-70km/h is not a great deal under certain circumstances. I would imagine most road bikes could achieve this. So as to where you'd get them, the answer is pretty much anywhere. How often you could reach these speeds would be down to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second point, re stability. I'd argue that stability is as much a factor of the bike as the speed. One of the big differences you would notice between, say, a $1000 road bike and a $15000 bike would be stability. A lower end bike should be pretty stable, but will have limitations on performance. A higher-end bike will perform better but will also require more skill to handle. I have observed this to be true regardless of speed - high-end bikes are more responsive and therefore more &quot;twitchy&quot; (I'm thinking of stability here as how easy it is to control the bike). Its a bit like going for a ride on a donkey and going for a ride on a thoroughbred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T15:46:12.867" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T15:46:12.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20795" CreationDate="2014-03-19T13:53:51.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, when you want to commute somewhere, you have to carry things (a rack+panniers are good for this, esp. if you carry laptops), you don't want to arrive in a pool of sweat (and you need a change of clothes on hand anyway) and you want to arrive comfortably (cause you should be productive at work). These are all the opposite of what a racing bike is intended for. If you have urban sections, it doesn't really matter what bike since you'll be able to hit the maximum safe speed on any point. So, overall, a racing bike is a bad idea (unless you are a racing cyclist, and your &quot;commute&quot; is a race). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for stability, its a combination of road surfaces and rider skill and geometry, but 50 kph is doable on a lot of road bikes. A lot of the &quot;speed run&quot; cycles are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.donhoubicycles.com/100bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;custom jobs&lt;/a&gt; in very controlled conditions, and don't necessarily sustain the speed for distances (the hour record of mercx was around 50 km, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T13:53:51.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20798" CreationDate="2014-03-19T14:11:25.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure of the type of bicycle you have, the trailer you're using, or how much you plan to tow. However, I have a BOB Yak that I tow behind a 2007 Specialized Allez Expert (with carbon fiber seat stays, but not chain stays), and I have not had any problems carrying groceries, textbooks, and other paraphernalia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wife's bike has a similar setup (carbon seat stays but aluminum/steel elsewhere) it should be okay as long as you are careful about weighting the trailer and try to reduce the rotational forces (my trailer is single-wheeled, so it leans with the bike) by not standing in the saddle and rocking from side to side for hill climbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're also right about the wheel taking most of the acceleration and braking forces, as well as weight. On that note, you may want to consider how beefy her rear wheel is, if she has a lightly spoked rear-wheel, you may want to consider a heavier wheel to avoid destroying a 'lighter' racing tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10626" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T14:11:25.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-19T14:27:37.747" Score="0" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I have replaced my chain with a kmc z8s. The rear cassette is Shimano acera 8 speed , and is not worn yet , so everything is OK with the cassette. But the problem is that the chain doesn't fit the cassette properly ,when I apply more power on the pedals the  chain starts sliding over the cassette (The lenght of the chain is OK too). What is the solution of this problem ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T21:41:13.637" Title="Sliding chain over the cassette" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-03-19T22:27:21.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20795" CreationDate="2014-03-19T16:03:56.533" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I want to use the bicycle for the 26-30mi commute that I do everyday and if it is a racing bike it could potentially save time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trained cyclist can definitely ride farther and faster on a road bike than on a hybrid bike, based solely on wind resistance and bicycle fit. However, the speeds you list are completely unrealistic. Bike speeds are based primarily on the rider. Other major considerations include the route and the physical shape you want to arrive in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 30 mile commute means you are riding 15 miles in each direction. I know a lot of people who bicycle commute this distance every day. They are all in excellent physical shape and ride at least 2,000 miles a year. &lt;em&gt;(3,218 kilometers)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 15 mile route with few if any stops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A good road surface (paved, minimal bumps)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Few intersecting roads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry weather&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fairly flat ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the commuters I know could easily finish the ride in less than 1 hour. &lt;em&gt;(averaging over 15 mph)&lt;/em&gt;. Many of them could average 18 mph for the entire ride. A few might be able to average 20 - 21 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, They will all arrive at their destination dripping sweat and need a shower and a change of clothing. If it rains, your average speed will go down significantly, since it just isn't safe to ride as fast on wet pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So practically speaking, unless you are a highly trained athlete, doing 15 miles any faster than 20 - 21 mph is probably out of the question. Much more likely that you will do 15 - 18 mph. &lt;strong&gt;(And that's for a trained cyclist.)&lt;/strong&gt; You then have to worry about cleaning up once you reach your office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting one of the special bikes you mentioned will most likely &lt;strong&gt;slow you down&lt;/strong&gt;, since they are designed for ultra high speeds with gearing that simply won't work in a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T16:03:56.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20785" CreationDate="2014-03-19T16:20:42.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 700x23 bicycle tire has a finite life span dependent on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The surface damage done to the tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The distance the tire has been ridden&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The age of the tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The initial quality of the tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires supplied on bicycles straight from the manufacturer are generally at the lower end of quality of bike tires. From my experience I expect to get 2,500 miles from a rear tire and 3,000 miles from a front tire, assuming I avoid damaging the tire with cuts from road debris. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T16:20:42.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20802" CreationDate="2014-03-19T19:33:59.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;it sounds like a derailleur adjustment issue. although HG vs IG compatibility issue could be something to be concerned about. it seems like the tension on the derailleur cable needs to be adjusted, and the stops too possibly. here is an article about how to go about derailleur adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10351" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T19:33:59.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20802" CreationDate="2014-03-19T20:17:47.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cassette really &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; worn.  It takes something of a trained eye to spot a too-worn cassette, and often when you switch to a new chain the cassette will skip worse than it did with the old, worn chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain is the wrong one for the cassette.  Chain/cassette compatibility is an area where there are no nice general rules -- you have to make sure that the chain you get is compatible with your specific cassette. This includes having the correct speed pairing (e.g. 8-speed chain for 8-speed cassette).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain was cut to the wrong length.  A chain is always delivered with 8-10 inches of extra chain.  You must shorten it to the appropriate length, using a &quot;chain breaker&quot;.  Some people just wrap the chain around the largest sprockets and eyeball it, but if you haven't developed that skill the best thing to do is to lay old and new chain side-by-side and carefully match up links along the length so that there are the same number of links in the new chain as the old.  (Note that if you just match length the new chain will likely end up a couple of inches too long.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain was threaded through the rear derailer incorrectly.  It's kind of hard to mess up on the front, but the threading through the rear derailer is not intuitive, and it's possible to muck it up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The derailer is out of adjustment or has been bent somehow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T21:41:13.637" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T21:41:13.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20795" CreationDate="2014-03-19T20:17:51.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any half decent touring or racing bike can do the speeds you noted, however, a more practical value for commuting is ~10-20 mph, on flat terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend a touring bike for the purpose, rather than a racing bike for all the reasons noted previously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have slightly wider tires and sturdier frames. The first leads to a somewhat less bumpy ride, the second to being able to carry loads easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also employ a less stressful (body) sitting position that racing bikes, which translates into less back and neck strain over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS&gt; there are a variety of bike shops in most urban areas and many offer a wide variety of models to choose from. Use the internet or your local Yellow pages to find the ones near you. I would avoid Wallmart/toy stores for the purchase, as the weight of the average toy store bike doesn't lend itself (imo) to communting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I ride a low end Trek. Cost me about $175 out the door, although that was 5 years ago, so tack another $50 or so to the price. Alll i've had to replace is tires and inner tubes. Oh, and I replaced the seat for one that has a gap down the middle to reduce strain on &quot;man parts&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10628" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T20:17:51.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20813" CreationDate="2014-03-19T23:14:59.413" Score="9" ViewCount="23794" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that there are 2 brake lever cable pull standards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard Pull Levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long Pull Levers (for V-brakes and disc brakes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what is the actual difference in pull? And specifically: what is the maximum travel caused by the lever on the cable (in mm or in inch)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1f59.png&quot; alt=&quot;brke lever pull diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10631" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T23:42:34.730" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T21:53:36.393" Title="What is the actual cable pull of brake levers?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2014-03-19T23:49:48.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cable Pull&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many brakes and most derailleurs are actuated by pulling cables. &lt;em&gt;Cable pull&lt;/em&gt; is how far the cable moves when the brake lever is pulled, or a shift lever is actuated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For brakes, there are two main standards, short or conventional pull and long or V brake pull. Road bikes have tended to use short pull levers, although current Shimano road brakes operate on a slightly different cable pull than other brands. For mountain bikes, cable-actuated brakes have tended to use long pull. This means that mountain bike V-brakes will not work correctly with road levers and vice versa, although cable pull adapters may be available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For indexed gears each groupset manufacturer will specify its own cable pull per shift (i.e. each click at the shifter), as well as how far the derailleur travels per shift. Thus, shifters and derailleurs cannot generally be mixed across component manufacturers. Non-indexed (friction) shifters can generally be mixed, provided they have enough total cable pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1f59.png&quot; alt=&quot;cable pull diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="38270" LastEditDate="2019-11-04T22:35:56.573" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T22:35:56.573" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-03-19T23:49:48.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20815" CreationDate="2014-03-20T02:44:58.343" Score="6" ViewCount="972" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is US law and roads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive on right side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed Limit is 45mph (72kmh)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And as @Benedikt Bauer pointed out solid white lines are not supposed to be crossed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the morning though there is very little traffic here. It will be heavier on my way home but then its not a left turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd also point out that this isn't nearly as far as Street View makes it appear with their wonky lens. I was hoping to snag a photo this morning myself but didn't catch the red light. From the shopping center entrance to the main intersection is 500 ft according to Google.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty sure while making the screenshots I figured it out but I'll ask anyways since I went through the trouble. I don't plan on taking this Left for a long time, if ever (I'll either go Pedestrian to get across here until I'm more confident or take a different route). But this is the most direct route from my place to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is the road goes from 2 lanes and then gets a right turn lane and a left turn lane into shopping centers. Then after that it expands further to have 2 left turn lanes, 3 straight lanes, and 1 right turn lane. That's where I need to make the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• 2 lanes getting ready to expand with the turn lanes into shopping centers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hreL2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;road 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• This is the shopping center intersection. The light further in the distance (500 ft in actuality) is where the intersection is. Cars would typically get in the second lane (not the left into the intersection but the one after that) and then as they cross the intersection get over into the turn lane. You can see this is what the SUV is doing in the picture. I would think this would then be the safest way for cyclists to do it as well but would have to take that lane so cars getting into the left don't cross into me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6bWhN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;road 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• This is the main intersection where I need to make the left. So I need to be in the right left turn lane (2nd lane from left):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e3Yfy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;road 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Here is a Satellite view by request. I labelled the left side is the area I'd be approaching from and the top is where I need to get to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sZOwz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;satellite&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Finally, its a bit hard to see but this is what it looks like from the light at the shopping center in the morning. You can see there's very little traffic at this hour and I'd actually have to leave 15-20 minutes earlier by bicycle so there would be even less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/17DSk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;road 4&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the best way to get in to the left lane? I've seen cyclists there so I know it can be done, just never seen the whole process. I'm thinking after writing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get into the left lane right before the shopping center intersection when its still 2 lanes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;staying right in the middle of that left lane forcing cars to slow&#xA;down behind you if there are any cars. (Of course only taking the lane when there is ample time for the car to slow down)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get over into the (right-most) left turn lane once across the shopping center intersection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this how you all would do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8397" LastEditorUserId="8397" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T12:33:59.390" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T12:33:59.390" Title="If a lane is going to expand should the left lane be taken prior to the expansion?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20811" CreationDate="2014-03-20T03:21:45.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply: no. Move over only once there is a left turn lane. My preference is to arrive there towards the start of the left turn lane because that’s what other road users are expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two parts to the answer. First, the law allows you to use the left turn lane, and in most places requires you to do so if you make that turn. But it also requires that you keep to the right as far as practicable, which means not moving into the left lane in anticipation of the left turn lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, safety. Your idea of crossing as a pedestrian is the best way if you’re not confident. Better is to ride across the road you’re on, then stop and wait for the lights to change. When they do, start riding when it’s safe, even if you haven’t walked all the way across that road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the road is that busy, I’d be looking for gaps in the traffic and trying to move when those occur. A lot depends on your speed relative to the motorists. (edit) So if you can, cross those lanes when the lights are red. Stationary cars rarely hit anyone :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there’s a big difference, even experienced cyclists will often fake hook (see below) or pedestrian across. But if you can sprint up to a near-enough speed, or the motorists are kind to cyclists, it’s usually quite feasible to switch lanes over to the turn lane. I find signalling works a lot of the time, and it’s worth trying. Put your arm out, see if someone slows down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few useful guides on how to do this. The one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/pubs/cycling-guide/section3.1.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;from the Canadians&lt;/a&gt; seems reasonable, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffdl37.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this guidance seems sensible&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in some places &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hook_turn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hook turns&lt;/a&gt; are legal. They’re &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Licences/NewToVictoria/InformationForTourists.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;common in Melbourne, Australia&lt;/a&gt; and are used in a few cycle-friendly cities around the world. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theurbancountry.com/2010/11/safe-left-turns-for-bicycles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Some people like them&lt;/a&gt; as a cycle safety measure, but in my view they’re insanely dangerous unless motorists are expecting them. If someone “runs the orange” they will hit anyone making a hook turn. Motorists do that a lot in some places. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars regularly get them wrong in Melbourne, but relatively rarely with fatal consequences, as you often get when a motorist hits a cyclist. You’re better to do a “fake hook” — ride most of the way across with the pedestrians, turn and stop in front of the cars that are about to get a green light. Technically, that’s illegal, but it’s safe and easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10584" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T08:06:57.237" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T08:06:57.237" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20809" CreationDate="2014-03-20T05:27:00.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long pull lever (i.e. for V-brakes, mountain mechanical discs) pulls the cable about twice as long (but about half as hard) as a short pull lever (caliper, cantilever, road discs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is determined by the distance between where the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/travel-agent&quot;&gt;cable ends and where the lever pivots&lt;/a&gt;. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/789752-long-vs-short-pull-brake-levers.html&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;, its significantly lower for short pull than for long pull with some variation (it seems like under 30 mm is a cutoff for short pull to long pull if you're picking a lever out of the bin). Park Tool states that the distance from cable end to lever pivot is around 21 mm for short pull (around 42 for long pull lever), and with a 20 degree movement (think the cable end to lever pivot distance as a radius of a circle - with this radius, and the angle at which the lever bottoms out, you can calculate the total possible cable pulled), you pull about 7 mm of cable for short pull (versus 15 mm for a long pull lever). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, there is some flexibility in this parameter, allowing different manufacturers to design different cable pulls to get different sorts of lever feels. This can also be adjusted on the fly with systems like Avid's Single Digit line of brake levers. Someone &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/710495-brake-levers-adjustable-mechanical-advantage.html&quot;&gt;claims&lt;/a&gt; the adjustment on the Avid Single Digit levers is enough to run short pull (YMMV). Usually when you buy a brake (or lever) from Shimano or SRAM, the manual specifies an &quot;optimal&quot; lever (or brake) to pair with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you run long pull lever with short pull brakes, it will be easy to pull the brake, but very hard to apply braking force with a hard lever feel. If you run short pull lever with long pull brakes, you will likely bottom out the lever before stopping (or lock up the wheel) with a soft lever feel. So, make sure to match the pull of the lever with the brake for your safety (obey the manual, except at your own risk!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can switch between the systems with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/travel-agent&quot;&gt;travel agent&lt;/a&gt;. Some levers also have a switch which can work with both types with the flick of the switch (Shimano ST-EF65 shifters+brake levers, for example). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-03-20T05:34:06.053" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T05:34:06.053" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20811" CreationDate="2014-03-20T07:32:46.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were in your shoes at this intersection, my plan off attack would vary greatly depending on the time of day, the weather conditions, and the specific traffic conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were particularly dark and/or rainy, I might cross as a pedestrian even when I'm familiar with the intersection and I have good lighting, just to reduce the risk of losing some skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the day, depending on the speed limit, I would probably use a convenient gap in traffic to take the middle of that lane I need to turn left. Or, I'll often time it so that I can blend in with a line of stopped/slow moving cars and smoothly take the middle of the lane, most of the time the other drivers will get the idea ( you're going to occasionally run into a few jerks no matter what you do, don't take it personally ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just take your time and feel it out, you'll get the hang of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T07:32:46.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20811" CreationDate="2014-03-20T09:12:10.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, at least in Germany a solid line must not be crossed therefore the left turn lane begins where the dashed line between the two initial lanes changes into a solid line. That does also mean that you should be on your target lane before the solid line starts, but it is wise to try to be there not too early – if I should give some reference point I would say you should change somewhere around the last dash, if traffic allows for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding out if traffic allows for it is a matter of experience and personal readiness to take a risk. But if traffic is so heavy that cars are driving more or less bumper to bumper so that you can't expect to find a reasonable gap between them when you have to change, you better take the detour over the pedestrian crossing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have decided to take the left turn lane, prepare wisely before the turn. About 50 to 100m before the spot where you have to change, start to watch more often the traffic coming from behind to find a suitable gap between the cars. Once you have chosen your gap, occupy it, i.e. do not stick to the edge of the lane you're actually in, but get more to the middle to prevent cars from overtaking you. At this point also start to signal that you want to turn left so that the drivers behind you see your intention and don't get angry at that dumb guy that takes the whole lane because he cannot drive at the side. Then, about at the beginning of the solid line (as mentioned above) switch over to your desired lane, of course after another look over your shoulder to go sure that there is nobody coming fast from behind on your target line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing in all that stuff is that whenever you are about to leave your current direction, you do it in a way that makes your intention clear to the drivers around you. So don't just jump into a narrow gap between cars or drive in the middle of the lane without signalling. If you change into the middle of the lane, be brisk and occupy the lane so that it is clear that drivers behind you will not be able to overtake you by just slipping past you without making a wide bow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-03-20T12:12:31.507" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T12:12:31.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-20T10:35:09.660" Score="5" ViewCount="2146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a folding bike 2 months ago and got my first hiccup. It has a 3-speed hub gear and while changing gears today, it seems like the chain slipped off the smaller chainring near the back wheel into the gap with the wheel. As the chain is quite tight, my basic knowledge or Youtube info on how put chains back on in dérailleur bikes is useless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you actually slide it back on? Is there a simple technique? I tried simply pedalling but it doesn't seem to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this matters, it's an S-RAM iMotion hub gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10635" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T21:47:44.047" Title="Sliding chain back on hub gear bikes" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2014-03-20T10:42:00.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hardware store, Plumbing section, very strong rubber washers. Might even be stronger than leather and very available. My rear fender has a clamp in the middle, that is where the old inner tube comes in. I have just found out I can use high density foam wether strip for the center fender bracket and it works great. 1/8 inch thick by 1/2 inch wide. It even has adhesive on one side to help it stay in place while installing. Just finished doing this to a Norco city glide and I can't make the fenders rattle even by hitting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10636" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-03-23T22:57:42.257" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T22:57:42.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20822" CreationDate="2014-03-20T12:12:29.967" Score="1" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll do a bike trip that will last a week and I need to mount a rear rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a Rockrider 8.1 with disc brakes without threaded seat-stay bosses to attach the mounting bracket arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend lent me these bags &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decathlon.it/borse-bici-2x20-litri-classic-id_8248119.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.decathlon.it/borse-bici-2x20-litri-classic-id_8248119.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I attach a rack to my bike to use these bags?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6091" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-05-28T13:09:25.053" LastActivityDate="2019-05-28T13:09:25.053" Title="Rockrider 8.1 rack and bags" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20821" CreationDate="2014-03-20T12:19:21.273" Score="2" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Lemond revolution states that it creates consistent aero resistance with its fan power from 0 newtons to 40 newtons along one axis and 0 to 160 meters/second^2 on the other axis. Since air flow is normally measured in meters/second^3 why use the mentioned meters/second^2. I would happily concede I have missed something basic here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link to lemond revolution website: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://greglemond.com/#!/revolution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://greglemond.com/#!/revolution&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T14:33:54.677" Title="why does the lemond revolution turbo trainer quote its volume of air resistance in meter^2 and not per second cubed?" Tags="&lt;physics&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20820" CreationDate="2014-03-20T13:12:00.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is simple but the explanation behind the answer may be instructive. The simple answer is: the x-axis label should be read as (m/s)^2, not m/s^2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer explanation is related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9938/how-can-one-estimate-drag-for-a-bicycle/9947#9947&quot;&gt;this bicycles.stackexchange answer&lt;/a&gt;. The power needed to ride at steady speed on a flat road under calm wind conditions is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Watts = Crr * kg * g * v + 0.5 * rho * CdA * v^3 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where Crr is the coefficient of rolling resistance, kg is mass, g is the gravitational constant, rho is air density, CdA is the drag area (that is, the product of coefficient of aerodynamic drag, Cd, and frontal area, A), and v is the speed of the bicycle in meters/second. Watts are a Newton*meter/sec, so if you divide both sides of the power equation by the speed v (in meters/sec) you get the drag equation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Watts/v = Newtons = Crr * kg * g + 0.5 * rho * CdA * v^2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, if you know power and speed, you can plot v^2 on the x-axis against watts/v on the y-axis and you will get a straight line with intercept = (Crr&lt;em&gt;kg&lt;/em&gt;g) and slope = (0.5*rho*CdA). This is what was done in the NY Velocity article describing the characteristics of the Lemond Revolution trainer, and is the &quot;classic&quot; way to estimate drag parameters of a bicycle from on-road field tests when you have a power meter. Other ways are described in the bicycles.stackexchange answer linked above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Whats_the_virtual_CdA_and_Crr_of_the_LeMond_Revolution_P3178482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elsewhere&lt;/a&gt;, the &quot;virtual&quot; Crr and CdA of the Lemond Revolution were estimated using a related technique. Note that a graph is given where Newtons is plotted on the y-axis and speed^2 (that is, (m/s)^2) is plotted on the x-axis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T14:33:54.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20819" CreationDate="2014-03-20T14:54:00.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any reasonably study aluminum tube rack should be okay. Panniers and racks use a standard for mounting, so any rack that looks like this should be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_519792_-1___202601&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_519792_-1___202601&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jmHXY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nashbar Mtn Rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An mtn bike specific rack like that one is probably a good choice since it &#xA;will be wider to have more clearance, but most bike racks should work if you&#xA;use skinnier MTB tires. The important part is something to hook the lower pannier connection on just above the lower mounts. Avoid older racks with hinged parts, these simply won't stand up to the load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tricky part is mounting the rack to the seat stays. You can do this using P-clamps from the hardware store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/POfQp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;P-clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100130546?langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10051&amp;amp;catalogId=10053&amp;amp;N=5yc1v&amp;amp;R=100130546&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100130546?langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10051&amp;amp;catalogId=10053&amp;amp;N=5yc1v&amp;amp;R=100130546&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using P-clamps for both upper and lower attachements, it would be a good idea to keep the weight as low as possible. You can also get brackets that work with a long skewer on the rear axle, but I'm not sure that's worth it for a single week long trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you've got money burning a hole in your pocket and want a solid long term solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldmanmountain.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.oldmanmountain.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T14:54:00.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6356" CreationDate="2014-03-20T16:40:47.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For attaching the mudguards to the fork crown and top of the seat stay, use zip ties (cable ties). ie drill or melt four holes in the mudguard, then put the zip ties through these and around the fork/stays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, this makes a big difference to stopping the mudguards rattling. The riveted brackets on SKS mudguards soon become loose and start wobbling, zip ties are much more solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus it can give a bit more tyre clearance, which is helpful if you want to use bigger tyres on a frame without much space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T16:40:47.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20811" CreationDate="2014-03-20T16:43:40.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by the road and the suggested speed limit of 45 mph, I'm betting people are flying down this road at 50+ mph. Unless you are there at a time with virtually no car traffic I would side with safety. Cars doing 45+ mph don't mix well &lt;em&gt;(or at all)&lt;/em&gt; with bikes doing 12 mph. This also looks like the south- maybe Florida, and recent bike safety studies showed that the most likely places to get into a car - bike accident were in the south.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, personally, would stay in the right lane &lt;em&gt;(not the right turn lane)&lt;/em&gt; through the intersection. I would stop at the cross walk on the other side of the intersection, move my bike onto the sidewalk, and wait for a light &lt;em&gt;(and pedestrian signal)&lt;/em&gt; to cross. At that point you can walk or ride your bike and merge back onto the new street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that judging by the street views you provided the first road is a two lane road with fast moving traffic and no shoulder. I would not normally ever ride on that type of road. You are a slow moving blip forcing the faster moving cars to merge and flow around you. That's a recipe for disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T16:43:40.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18972" CreationDate="2014-03-20T22:17:47.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late answer, however I though it worth adding a manufacturer (Thanks to answer to another question) that does this without loading the seat stay as much as the Thule. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldmanmountain.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;oldmanmoutain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They attach to the axle and brake bosses (if you have them) or use P clamps on the seat stay. Have a load rating of 40 lb. looking at the design most of the weight would be on the axle mounts, meaning much less stress on the frame components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T22:17:47.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4933" CreationDate="2014-03-21T05:43:24.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a CRX City Commuter bike in 2007, with a Nexus 8 hub gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've riden it 18kms (approx 11 miles), 4 days a week, since then, excepting holidays. A bit over 20,000km in all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not particularly fast or &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11141/do-shimano-nexus-hubs-lose-efficiency-as-they-get-older&quot;&gt;mechanically efficient&lt;/a&gt;, but very reliable. In terms of maintenance, Ive had it packed with grease once and that's all. In contrast, my brakes wore through the rims and I needed new wheels in the same period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T05:43:24.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20830" CreationDate="2014-03-21T10:26:34.390" Score="10" ViewCount="5188" Body="&lt;p&gt;How tight should handlebar components be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Deore-XT/SI_8JZ0A/SI-8JZ0A-004-Eng_v1_m56577569830780951.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; it's said 6-8Nm. However, I don't own a torque wrench at that range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the brake levers and commands be tight, or should they be able to twist, so that in the event of a crash, they do not break?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:34:49.020" LastActivityDate="2017-06-28T04:55:39.763" Title="How tight should brakes and shifters be on the handlebars?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20831" CreationDate="2014-03-21T10:28:23.507" Score="5" ViewCount="8002" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should all the rear wheel spokes have equal tension? Or should&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the spokes from the side of the cassette be tighter, in order to skew to wheel in that direction, and the wheel to be centered in the frame&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so this thing is called &quot;dished&quot; wheel. In the meanwhile I learned that often shorter spokes are placed on the side of the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do not own a &lt;code&gt;spoke tension meter&lt;/code&gt;, how can I approach straightening a rear rim, or tightening up loose spokes? What is the difference in the procedure from a front wheel, where one uses the brake calipers to measure rim trueness, and pinching the spokes together indicates spoke tension, which has to be more or less equal around the wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T13:32:05.877" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T02:44:34.347" Title="What does a &quot;dished&quot; wheel mean? How to tighten spokes on such a wheel, without a spoke tension meter?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20828" CreationDate="2014-03-21T10:35:35.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a road bike you'll want them fairly tight to be able to ride on the hoods without the brake levers turning away or moving downward on the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a mountain bike, at least the brake levers should be able to rotate away in case of a crash. But they still should be relatively tight such that they don't turn away while braking or because of bumps. Depending on where you ride, I'd rather have them a little too tight than lose the ability to brake because the levers are somewhere they're not supposed to be. As a rule of thumb, you shouldn't be able to rotate them without applying some force, similar to opening a pickle jar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T10:35:35.683" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20829" CreationDate="2014-03-21T10:56:19.543" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the wheel is symmetrical the spokes should all have the same tension. If dished (what you've called &quot;skew&quot; the bicycle world calls dished), the side closer to the centre of the hub will have more tension. All the spokes on the same side of the wheel should have the same tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have derailleur gears the wheel will almost certainly be dished (it's possible to build a frame such that this isn't necessary, but that requires other compromises, so if it's a mass produced frame with derailleur gears it's got a dished rear wheel). With hub gears it is almost certainly symmetrical, and with a singlespeed it's probably symmetrical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the spokes should be as tight as the rim allows. Jobst Brandt in &quot;The Bicycle Wheel&quot; is quoted in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2626/should-spoke-tension-be-measured-before-or-after-adding-a-tube-and-tire&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; as saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With tensioned wires as spokes, the wheel can support loads only to&#xA;  the point where its spokes become loose. At this point the wheel will&#xA;  collapse. Therefore, for greatest strength, spokes must be as tight as&#xA;  the rim permits. Structurally the rim supports spoke tension as an&#xA;  arch that is compressed by the inward force of the spokes. The load&#xA;  limit for most rims is far less than what the spokes could deliver if&#xA;  they were tightened to their breaking point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That book is short and cheap (but densely written) and well worth buying if you're interested in wheelbuilding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: You don't need a tensiometer, you can probably do it by ear. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10701/how-effective-is-checking-spoke-tension-by-ear&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; discusses truing by ear and links to a useful article. Like Daniel  said in the comments, focus on getting the wheel true, stress relieve it, re-true it (repeat as needed),  ride it for a day or two, then check it. The closer you can get the spoke tension to even the less the wheel will go out of true when you stress relieve it/ride it, so the faster that process will go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the rim or spokes are damaged you won't be able to get the tension even, and the older the wheel is the less likely it is that you'll get it even. The advantage of a tensiometer is that it speeds the process up and is more reliable (doing it by ear is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; sensitive to the exact length between the rim and the first cross of the spoke, and you can change that by pushing on the spoke)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T02:44:34.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14645" CreationDate="2014-03-21T15:04:48.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try sanding the stem and bars because most BMX company's paint there bars and stems all the way so there is no grip. If you sand the inside of the stem and the grippy part of your handlebars it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10645" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T15:04:48.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-21T15:41:18.087" Score="0" ViewCount="5942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a KMC Z8S chain , but it slides over the rear cassette . The model of the cassette is Shimano CS-HG30-81 , it is not worn yet , and the chain length is also perfectly calculated . The problem is in IG / HG compatibility in my opinion , because the chain is a little bit wide , and it has a little play along the teeth of the cassette. Do you have any information about the compatibility of this chain with Shimano HG cassette ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T02:29:31.253" Title="KMC Z8S IG or HG compatibility" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20835" CreationDate="2014-03-21T16:08:36.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IG parts are relatively hard to find to begin with, so I'd bet that something is not adjusted properly (or its in your head and you should just deal with it - there is a bit of play when you've gone through a chain or two on a cassette when you put on a new chain at first). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Some Shimano 7- and 8-speed cassettes carried the Hyperglide principle even farther, by adding ramps and contouring to both sides of the sprockets. To do this while maintaining the full thickness of the teeth, the designers had to make the sprockets thicker. Since the sprockets are thicker, the spacers must be thinner to maintain the correct spacing. Also, since the sprockets are thicker, Shimano says you shouldn't use H.G. chains on I.G. cassettes. SRAM chains are compatible with both types.&#xA;Shimano says that you shouldn't mix I.G. and non-I.G. sprockets, but if you use one I.G. spacer per I.G. sprocket, you should be all right. Some experimentation may be required for best results with a mixed setup.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17085/upgrade-my-rear-cassette-from-12-25t-to-11-28t&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&quot;All current HG cassette cogs are specially profiled to be HG or IG chain compatible. Any Shimano IG chain will work with any HG cassette. If you use a HG chain with a 7-speed IG cassette (CS-IG50 and CS-IG60) the rear derailleur adjustment becomes more critical. One significant compatibility issue is always to avoid using a HG chain with an IG-only crank set. Why? The chain will release from the large (outer) chain rings too easily while in the larger rear cog. It may be possible that the chain drops off the outer ring without shifting the lever, when under full power.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T16:08:36.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-21T16:55:19.297" Score="2" ViewCount="2962" Body="&lt;p&gt;Noticed that my rear wheel is pretty un-true and is hitting the brake pad / wont spin freely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decided that I would try to fix it myself before opting to pay 20 bucks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one spoke that is completely loose. The problem is that one i turn the spoke it does not tighten, nor does it feel like its being screwed into anything. &#xA;(my spoke is straight all the way - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/gear/product/p.sl1.wheelsystem/558/38549/#overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;i have this wheel&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Can I fix this, or do I need a new spoke / bike mechanic&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Does riding like this make things worse (aside for greater wear on my brake pads)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T17:43:13.453" Title="loose spoke that will not screw back in" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20839" CreationDate="2014-03-21T18:56:55.313" Score="3" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently decided to replace my brake cables before a particularly long ride, since they haven't been replaced in a number of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I have is that the stock rear cable on my bike has an exposed section and, as such, the new cable I have purchased (which has an outer casing running the whole length) will not fit in the groove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is my best option? Is there a preferred way to cut the casing on the cable? I.e. should I cut just enough off to pass the obstructions, or should I cut off a long section so the new cable is similar in appearance to the one I am replacing - an elongated exposed section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or better yet, are there cables available to purchase which will fit right out of the box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10647" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T19:17:53.197" Title="Modifying Brake Cable to Fit?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20838" CreationDate="2014-03-21T19:17:53.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cutting cables and housing is a bit of a pain in the ass (especially regular spiral housing for brakes). A Dremel with cutting disc or something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/professional-cable-and-housing-cutter-CN-10&quot;&gt;Park Tool CN-10&lt;/a&gt; is useful to cut the housing, along with a small file / punch to make sure that the hole is clear and smooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for running cables are &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/housing-length&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, along with some directions for cutting. Even if you do get a kit (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/jagwire-hyper-brake-cable-and-housing-set-3261.htm&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;), you will still need to do some cutting, since bikes are of different sizes. Assuming your housings were sized appropriately before though, you just need to use them to size the new ones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that bad cable installation can drastically degrade performance / be dangerous if its on your brake systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable cutting tools may not be a worthy investment if you don't use them often enough, so you may want to borrow them from a bike co-op or just get a shop to do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T19:17:53.197" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20841" CreationDate="2014-03-21T20:28:56.857" Score="3" ViewCount="2266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bled Avid Elixirs 3, 5, CR, etc... I still have a hard time getting a &quot;good bleed.&quot; I follow the instructions online, and via Avid's youtube video, I use the kit and it still takes me going through the entire bleed process 3 or 4 times until I give up and decide it's at least better than it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10649" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T20:56:43.427" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T17:14:34.773" Title="Why are Avid brakes so difficult to bleed?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-03-23T02:45:01.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20840" CreationDate="2014-03-22T07:22:06.967" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the design that makes them harder to bleed. Although an 'open' hydraulic system Avid's Taperbore resembles a 'closed' system, one that operates in a vacuum. The Avid system uses a small reservoir fixed amount of fluid in the system and a bladder around the master piston with air in it. Shimano and other brands use a larger reservoir with a bladder separating the brake fluid (in the case of Shimano mineral oil) and air. In both cases air is used to compensate for the fluid in the system expanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the Avid system operates in a vacuum it requires all air to be removed from the system and that is why you need the two syringe set, other designs simply require fluid to be topped up in the reservoir and air worked out. The Avid elixir system is further complicated by a design that traps air within the taper bore reservoir adding an additional level of difficulty when purging air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avids also use DOT 4 or 5.1 which is more difficult to work with than other fluids. Different brake fluids have different characteristics (boiling points, freezing points, amount of expansion etc.). Avid specifies DOT 4 and 5.1, which is a pain. The brake fluid is a solvent so you don't want to get it on your hands but it isn't going to kill you. DOT fluid is hygroscopic, it attracts water so although you can buy it in larger quantities cheaper than through Avid it doesn't have a good shelf life once opened and probably shouldn't be opened again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T17:14:34.773" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T17:14:34.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20845" CreationDate="2014-03-22T14:35:40.670" Score="0" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pardon my newb terminology. My bike's chain will not stay on the H gear (the big ring) The front derailleur will not allow it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IPojn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fully loosened - wont go higher&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have loosened the limiter screw out to it's maximum and, still, no dice. Clearly there is more room to move, as I demonstrate manually:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Uxx3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;see!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know what to attempt to adjust next. Clearly there is a bias toward the Low cog. Ideally I'd want to tighten that limiting screw so I'd have more room to manouvre in future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of the other hinges should I try to work with next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nw4fs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every video I've found online so far only deals with those limiting screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10655" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T15:59:42.360" Title="how to adjust the derailer - apart from the L/H limiting screws" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20846" CreationDate="2014-03-22T15:37:05.093" Score="4" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seing &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2927/how-do-i-wrap-a-road-bike-handlebar&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; showed me what the tape should be wrapped up from the outside of the handlebars (left side handle wrapped clockwise seen from behind, and vice versa) but looking at some videos at youtube I see that some does it opposite or say that it doesn't even matter. Is this a matter of the bikers way of holding the handles or is there a strict rule I really should stick to when applying my new tape? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4895" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T12:54:16.767" Title="Which way to wrap handlebar tape" Tags="&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-22T15:48:06.523" Score="2" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, when I cycled my bike the pedals would jump when I pushed down on them. I brought it to a shop who replaced the cassette, the chain, the two crank arms and probably the crankset. I have also had the rear gears replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All great for about 15k, till the pedals started to jump again, when I pushed down. Thought it was sth to do with freewheeling/backpedalling when coming up to lights (as is particuarly bad when I stop/start) but that is not always the case. Also, the pedals spin when I push the bike forward - again, this is intermittent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have had it into the shop about 5 times, to no avail. Am lost. Bike is only about 7 years old. &#xA;Anyone able to help please?!?!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10656" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T13:22:43.717" Title="When I press on pedal, intermittent loss of power" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20842" CreationDate="2014-03-22T15:59:42.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to loosen the screw that holds the cable and pull that cable out a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The limiter screws that you've used so far are rather used to prevent the chain from falling off, and it's a finer tuning than you appear to need now. Thus it would be useful to level them out before pulling the cable. After you adjust the cable, take a few minutes to make sure the derailleur does not throw the chain over the outer gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4526" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T15:59:42.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20843" CreationDate="2014-03-22T17:14:56.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It comes down to your own preferences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always wrap mine counter-clockwise on the right side and clockwise on the left side. (seen from riders perspective)..&#xA;Edit: You probably shouldn't go the same way around on both sides, thoght. The look and feel would be all wrong ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only tricky part is where you go around the shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8145" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T17:14:56.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-22T18:32:56.760" Score="12" ViewCount="9407" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(This post was substanically edited/updated on 5/8/14.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bike frame of unknown lineage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is known:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The serial number under the bottom bracket is IS513786. This fits with the serial numbers for Japanese made Bianchis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame has Shimano EF rear dropouts that are stamped with 'IJ'. That &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintage-trek.com/component_dates.htm#shimano&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;means&lt;/a&gt; they were made in October 1984.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although I can't be sure that the fork is original, the steering tube has &quot;Tange.5.I&quot; and a 'J' and 'S' in a circle stamped on it. Also, the crown race was originally JIS sized.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I got the bare frame, not the complete bike, and the paint is not original.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dropouts were made in late '84 and we now know that the last two digits of the serial number do not represent the year. (E.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/808726-newest-ride-japanese-bianchi.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;'89&lt;/strong&gt; Japanese Bianchi has a serial number ending in &lt;strong&gt;86&lt;/strong&gt;.) So the frame is likely from a '84 or '85 Bianchi (since the dropouts were made late in '84).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I've posted pictures below; I've made sure to point out things that could help identify the frame (braze-ons, lug style, etc.). I've tried to arrange the pictures with the most identifying characteristics first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedalroom.com/bike/bianchi-brava-9734&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a similar looking, but not identical, 1986 Bianchi Brava. (That Bianchi has the chainstay cable stop on the underside, while my bike has the cable stop on top.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I posted this information on a couple bike forums a few years ago. If you want to see what people said, here are the links to the two threads on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/645681-name-frame.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bikeforums.net&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/retro-classic/name-frame-212595-post2782128.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;roadbikereview.com&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bottom of the bottom bracket, including the serial number. Also note that there is a chainstay bridge.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9TQQ0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Headtube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The front of the headtube front. Note that the lugs have points in the middle (unlike some other Japanese lugs from that era).&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x12IM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Headtube front&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Shimano EF rear, drive-side dropout. Note that there are no eyelets. The date stamp is on the back side, so it is not shown.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xN2aX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drive side dropout&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The top of the seat stay cap has a flat surface and has nothing written on it. (Some bikes, like high end Miyatas, have curved caps and/or the company name cast into the caps.)&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eKzjV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Seat cluster&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The head tube has a pump peg.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wobas.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back of headtube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT&lt;/em&gt;: The whole frame:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EGpPP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The side of the bottom bracket:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLRiZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom bracket side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The frame's downtube shifter mounts:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1wpgJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Downtube shifter mounts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The seat stays have a chain hanger.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Edit: it's hard to see, but the chainstay cable stop is on top of the chainstay -- not below it.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTI79.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Seat stays&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The fork:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/krXSR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8188" LastEditorUserId="8188" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T05:05:07.693" LastActivityDate="2018-10-25T11:14:42.513" Title="Name that frame! (Likely Japanese, likely made in 1986, with known serial number, likely a Bianchi)" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="20" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20843" CreationDate="2014-03-23T12:54:16.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea is to wrap them so the friction against your hands when riding tightens rather than loosens it. I find I have to swap the direction of wrapping as I go past the shifters. Start at the bar ends and go &quot;up the inside and down the outside&quot; (cw on right, ccw on left). If you do an extra loop around the shifters you can change direction for the tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T12:54:16.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20851" CreationDate="2014-03-23T16:49:25.183" Score="8" ViewCount="20602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a route in Google Maps on the PC and save it under my account&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set Start and Target and let google maps create a route for my bicycle. Change the route and insert via-points to optimize the route. (Avoid ways with a lot of cars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Save the route under my account&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open the route on my Android Device (Google Maps App?) and navigate with the route. The route should have the via-points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only managed to create the map on the PC and opened it in a special app called 'Google Maps Engine' on my Android device, which only shows the route. I can't navigate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10664" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T18:26:05.670" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T18:26:05.670" Title="Howto design a route in Google Maps on the pc and navigate on the android device" Tags="&lt;software&gt;&lt;navigation&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20850" CreationDate="2014-03-23T17:22:00.503" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that you can do this with the apps you are talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there is hope. Going back to first principles, you have a pc on which you want to create your route, and you have an android device which you want to stick on your bike and use for navigation. Correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you accept that you need to abandon Google Maps altogether, there are whole companies such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RideWithGps&lt;/a&gt; who offer this kind of thing. You create your map through their site (as it happens one of the options is to use Google mapping, but there are other options too - including bike path mapping which may be useful for avoiding cars). You save your routes on their site, under an account that you create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this part of their service a lot and I know it works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards tracking, they offer an Android app designed for exactly that. I have not tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a pay subscription with these guys and it didn't cost a lot. But I know they also offer a free account so you might be able to do what I've said for free. I know the Android app is available through the Google App Store but have no idea whether it costs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably worth saying that there are a bunch of known issues with using phones for this kind of thing. Two that immediately spring to mind are battery life (GPS and screen are always on) and a way of securing the phone to the bike without the risk of it flying off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the interest of fairness, other companies which offer this kind of thing include &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MapMyRide&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt; but I only really know of these in passing - in particular I'm not sure how they handle the tracking side. Also &lt;a href=&quot;http://connect.garmin.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Garmin Connect&lt;/a&gt;, which I know quite well (and you don't need a Garmin computer to use), and which also has a complementary Android app. Any of these might be better than RWGps in doing what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-03-27T10:52:05.720" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T10:52:05.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2014-03-23T22:07:08.713" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately I was attacked by enormous amounts of dogs while riding. Wished I had pepper spray. I've never used it but I believe it will work. See in the link attached my experience with dogs recorded in my head camera; lots of them. I was lucky I was not eaten alive. Here only a gun would probably have stopped them. I believe it's figuring out who the leader of the pack and attacking it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/pLi4619vwAU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10667" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T16:37:34.340" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T16:37:34.340" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-03-23T22:07:08.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20829" CreationDate="2014-03-23T23:17:33.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, drive-side spokes have higher tension. Matter of angles -- physics 101 stuff, related to the fact that drive-side spokes are &quot;more vertical&quot; than non-drive-side&quot; spokes (because of the horizontal space taken by the cassette).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10668" LastEditorUserId="10668" LastEditDate="2014-03-27T13:14:00.787" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T13:14:00.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20837" CreationDate="2014-03-24T04:40:19.337" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can turn the spoke, the spoke must be broken; or, if it's a straight pull, try to tighten it at the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10670" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T15:06:41.797" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T15:06:41.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20856" CreationDate="2014-03-24T05:50:26.663" Score="4" ViewCount="1280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rather old frame that doesn't have threads on the rear rack braze-ons, and thus requires a nut. This nut makes contact with the chain if the chain is on the outer sprocket, so I'd like to tap out threads in my braze-on so the nut won't be necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has experience with tapping new threads in a braze-on, could you give some instructions on how to do it properly? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10672" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T12:16:15.777" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T22:58:17.230" Title="Tapping threads into braze-ons" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;braze-on&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20855" CreationDate="2014-03-24T08:46:37.667" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be too different to tapping out anything else, the added difficulty being that you would normally clamp the workpiece in a vice and you don't have that option.  I'd take the wheel off and lie the bike down on a bench with scrapwood in place of the axle (try to clamp/screw it in place) to give you something to push against other than the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the frame alloy or steel?&#xA;Especially if it's steel you really need to make sure the pilot hole is exactly the right size first - which probably means buying a drill bit specially. &#xA;Getting a tap started in steel isn't all that easy especially as you can't get the frame in a vice, in alloy it's not too bad - so a brand new decent quality tap is a good idea for steel,as is just smoothing the edge of the pilot hole with a bigger drill or countersink tool before you start. If you're buying the tap, get a taper type - they start much easier than a second, and you've got plenty of room to come out the other side with the wheel off.  A decent tap wrench is worth the extra money over the junk that sometimes comes in cheap tap/die sets: you want the tap to be held securely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the pilot hole is already the right size for your tap, running a drill down it to take the paint off won't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain oil should do as a cutting fluid if you don't have anything better, then once you've got a thread started remember to back the tap off every now and then (e.g. forwards half to one turn, back a quarter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to clean up all the swarf afterwards so it doesn't get anywhere important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the chain is catching on the nut rather than the bolt itself - you can buy half nuts / lock nuts which are thinner.  You'd need to threadlock it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T08:46:37.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20850" CreationDate="2014-03-24T09:41:51.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is, unfortunatly, no.  It used to be possible to fudge it - you could save your routes on the computer, and apply them as a layer on the phone, highlighting the roads.  However, this functionality was removed a couple of years back.  There are several groups calling for it to be reintroduced, so with some luck it'll be back as a feature one day!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastEditorUserId="9031" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T10:27:54.480" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T10:27:54.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20850" CreationDate="2014-03-24T11:24:32.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing with Google Maps is this: you can design the route with every internal route point in between on the web and then copy/paste the URL and send it to yourself. For example: via email and click the link on an Android device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you will get is a navigation of the route, not exactly of the same route you designed on the desktop (web), but rather a similar one that will pass through every point you added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mobile device recalculates the optimal route and quite often that route is not identical to the one calculated on the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google Maps does have navigation (for some countries).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10653" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T15:09:06.140" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T15:09:06.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20887" CreationDate="2014-03-24T12:29:22.383" Score="14" ViewCount="1500" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this a common thing, and if so, what is the motivation behind it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I went to unlock my bicycle this morning, when I touched the U-Lock, it basically fell apart.  It looks like someone used a hacksaw and cut through it.  If it had been half-cut, I might think someone interrupted them (but even that is unlikely since you just need to say, 'I've lost my key!').  But in this case, it was completely cut.  I had a cable around the tires as well, but it was all connected to the U-lock; so it was completely unsecured as soon as they cut the U-lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was in a parking garage with many bicycles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do bicycle thieves 'prep' bicycles and then return later to steal them all at once?  I was gone for two weeks, so I have no idea how long it has been cut.  I'm mostly just scratching my head wondering why anyone would do all the work, and then leave the bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3162" LastEditorUserId="3162" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T12:40:48.577" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T20:38:12.737" Title="Cut U-Lock....Bicycle Left?" Tags="&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20844" CreationDate="2014-03-24T13:22:43.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like there's a problem with your rear hub's freehub body (assuming you're running a cassette). The pawls get messed up sometimes and cause a jump when you're pedaling. If this is the case, you can try to replace the freehub body, which requires a bit of work. You basically have to take the axle out of the hub and get a 10mm wrench down there (most common method).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T13:22:43.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20865" CreationDate="2014-03-24T14:55:32.957" Score="7" ViewCount="5736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am replacing the rim on my rear wheel with a new one. I've brought up the tension on the spokes close to the final tension by truing / increasing tension / truing / increasing tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got myself a park tool TM-1 tension meter.  I've been measuring the spoke tension, and they have a deflection reading varying from 19 to 21 or so, giving tension between 85kgf to 105kgf, using double butted 2.0/1.8 spokes according to the park tool deflection to kgf conversion chart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How close of a tolerance between spokes tension readings should I allow for the final tension? &#xA;How should I even out the tension to the ideal tolerance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T15:42:00.500" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T16:12:52.930" Title="What tolerances should I use for spoke tension when building a wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20837" CreationDate="2014-03-24T17:37:45.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spoke and nipple are turning together? This wheel uses straight spokes. Don't think it's likely, but the notch could be stripped at the hub, meaning there wouldn't be anything you could do about it besides get a new hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think more likely your spoke nipple is probably stripped. Try to get another one from somewhere that is the same size as the ones already in your wheel, and try to replace the bad one. You just need to take off your tire and rim tape, and pull the bad nipple all the way out. Then get another nipple (2.0mm diameter) and thread on. See if it works. Could also be bad threads on your spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastEditorUserId="8918" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T17:43:13.453" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T17:43:13.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6190" CreationDate="2014-03-24T19:22:46.543" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found this thread as I was looking for the same answer for the legality of pedestrian running on the bike lane with a perfectly good sidewalk next to them.  Since I have not seen this being answered here, I'll post what I found from California's DMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pedestrian in Bicycle Lane&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;21966&lt;/em&gt;. No pedestrian shall proceed along a bicycle path or lane where there is an adjacent adequate pedestrian facility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21966.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d11/vc21966.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, this law has been in effect since 1977 and it seems not many people know (or care) about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10676" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T20:26:38.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20861" CreationDate="2014-03-24T21:17:35.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:XAJCWbToPcsJ:www.parktool.com/blog/calvins-corner/tension-its-all-relative%20&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ct=clnk&amp;amp;gl=au&amp;amp;client=ubuntu&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This blog post&lt;/a&gt; (google cache, original gone) on the Park site suggests a range of 20%, &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/wheels-tires/wheel-building-what-your-tension-roundness-tolerance-272874.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; has people saying a range of 1 on the TM-1 is fine (edited in some quotes):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sort of try to finish within a 0.1 mm error radially/laterally and under 0.5 notch (of the tension meter) of standard deviation for all spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get DS tension under 1 notch on the park tensionmeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Average: 14,25 (notches of the park tension meter) Standard deviation : 0,58 notch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what I generally use when building a wheel. I'll look up the chart and get something like 15.5 for a 1200N tension, so I'll aim to have all spokes between 15 and 16, and most of them close to 15.5. With a TM-1 I know my repeatability on measurements is only about +-.25 anyway, so if I measure the same spoke several times I'm likely to see 15.5, 15.75, 15.5, 16... and say &amp;quot;buggrit, that's a bit over 15.5&amp;quot;. But for any single measurement I could in theory chase the 15.5 target and go 1/4 turn looser or tighter, squeeze a few spokes then re-measure. But that wouldn't necessarily tell me I'd helped the situation, and might not even be accurate to within the tolerance I think I'm aiming for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual process is pretty repetitive:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get the wheel fairly round, focusing more on up-down than left-right circularity (hops are hard to get out later)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;run around and tightening spokes half a turn at a time to get the tension slightly under my target (say 14 using my 15-16 target)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get the wheel true to 0.5mm or so&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I'll run the tensiometer over the whole wheel to see how even the tension is. If there's a big problem I'll back everything off a turn and try again. Otherwise I'll back off any over-tight spokes a little, tighten the loose ones and stress relieve the wheel, hoping it comes right. Then I'll re-true it. And repeat this step. Again and again, until it's all good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get the hang of it a lot of those steps will happen once at most. Normally I'll hit each spoke maybe twice with the tensiometer, and possibly a couple of spokes more than that. A good build would be tightening by feel, getting it true with a couple of tweaks, measuring and it's done. But that's very rare unless I'm on my third identical wheel in a day. If I'm fixing an existing wheel I might end up working 4-5 spokes 5 times or more trying to get it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One test I suggest you do is just to write down the tension of each spoke on your wheel, then put that bit of paper in a safe place. Then do it again, so you're measuring without looking at the earlier measurement. Then compare the two sets of measurements. That will give you an idea of the variability of your measurements of spoke tension. There's no point trying to get more accurate than that with a wheel, because you're chasing a random number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T00:11:58.053" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20859" CreationDate="2014-03-24T21:36:23.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's entirely possible, as suggested in the comments, that the perp was simply interrupted. However from my own experience, I think your speculation about the bikes being prepped is at least as plausible, if not more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A while ago, we were plagued for months by bike thefts. We regularly found sawed-off pieces of bike locks, scattered in the area around our apartment. We would often spot &quot;new&quot; bikes, often multiple at a time, with their locks cut open. A few days later the bikes were gone, only to be replaced by new bikes with locks cut open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most frustrating part was that we knew who did it. I've caught several of them red-handed a couple of times, parking their bikes with cut-up locks in the area, before walking back to their house. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The police knew about it and frequently checked the address, but the perps were clever enough to keep the stolen goods off the property of their home. They even had the nerve to park their bikes used for transportation (with locks cut open) in our property's bike shed, and walk home from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More of an anecdotal answer than a definitive one. Sorry :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3123" LastEditorUserId="3123" LastEditDate="2014-03-25T21:26:12.000" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T21:26:12.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-25T13:24:21.877" Score="1" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a commuter rig from a mailorder mike operation and would love to replace the stem with something I've made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting into some CNC/casting/woodworking was curious if people have fabricated their own parts. I've always wanted to at least mockup my own parts in wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I wonder: has anyone gone the next step to either cast parts in smelted aluminum or CNC'd them out of billet aluminum? Or even kept the part wood and placed the proper metal fittings into it so that it could function like it's metal counter part? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it must sound like like I'm taking crazy pills but I can't seem to get this idea out of my head...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10683" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T14:21:05.927" Title="Have you built your own components?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-03-25T15:41:54.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6190" CreationDate="2014-03-25T13:43:01.057" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get irked when people are running/walking on the road WITH traffic, in general. I think it's a law, albeit unenforced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the general consensus across most jurisdictions is that it is illegal for a pedestrian (this includes rollerbladers, skateboarders, etc) to not use a sidewalk when it is available. And if one is not available, to move against the flow of traffic. It's safer, anyway... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10683" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T13:43:01.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20867" CreationDate="2014-03-25T14:17:52.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are people who are making custom parts for bicycles, also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.steelmancycles.com/stems.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stems in particular&lt;/a&gt;. Whole bicycle frames as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is a non trivial craft that takes time, practice and determination to master properly. Not to mention that failure of some parts can cause serious injuries, so tread carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastEditorUserId="5563" LastEditDate="2014-03-26T14:21:05.927" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T14:21:05.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20872" CreationDate="2014-03-25T15:14:09.967" Score="15" ViewCount="121093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to road bikes and was wondering if these bikes are capable of riding on light gravel or whether I will get flats? Does it depend on the tire material or are generally all road bike tires for road only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10687" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-03-25T15:40:54.850" LastActivityDate="2020-05-24T15:40:26.753" Title="Are road bikes capable of being ridden on gravel?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gravel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20871" CreationDate="2014-03-25T15:28:55.967" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google 'cyclocross'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUXi7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CX bike in action&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary difference between a road bike and a CX bike is the size of the tires. You can ride your road bike anywhere your skills will allow. There are some gotcha's though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skinny tires only have so much traction. Gravel flats won't be an issue for all but the lightest of race tires, but pinch flats from hitting larger rocks at high speed are a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dirt and high end road components don't mix well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But seeing exactly how far you can take a road bike has a long history and many local clubs have &quot;grasshopper&quot; rides that link up old gravel roads. Your bike is capable of much more than you might think. Look up the races Paris-Roubaix and Strada Bianca.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T15:28:55.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20861" CreationDate="2014-03-25T15:43:05.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your results seems reasonable to me. While the TM-1 is a useful tool, getting repeatable measurements out of it depends a lot on the skill of the user. I use mine more as a double check to make sure that I've got enough tension in the wheel and that the tension is roughly balanced. If you start out with a straight rim and build a wheel that is true, that's actually a much better test of even tension than the meter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T15:43:05.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20871" CreationDate="2014-03-25T16:11:37.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are asking two questions, one about the bike and one about the tires. Road bikes can easily go on gravel, or even off road. However, the ride quality and handling will be compromised the more &quot;off road&quot; you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the tires, the more you have &quot;road&quot; tires, the more flats you will have. This is due to the thin nature of road tires for less rolling resistance combined with higher pressure. Road tires have PSI (Pounds per square inch, a measure of air pressure) in the 100-120 range, with very thin tires (and tubes, if you use something like a latex tube) to reduce resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross tires are thicker, will sometimes have treads to handle grass, mud, water, etc. They will run anywhere from 24-40 PSI depending on type of tire and conditions. Once you go to mountain tires, then you are also putting on lower pressure, and you have much thicker tire and tube material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T16:11:37.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20889" CreationDate="2014-03-25T16:45:36.183" Score="4" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old steel frame Peugot road bike that I want to fit a bottle cage to. It has braze-ons but I'm not sure how to mount it. Can anyone advise? Pictures uploaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QMJNN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d9ngb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10689" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T12:00:22.537" Title="Fitting a bottle cage" Tags="&lt;bottle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-25T22:48:11.060" Score="2" ViewCount="421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an SRAM x7 rear derailleur only been using it a few months (through the rain) and the jockey wheels seem in a bad way. There's a lot of side to side play in them and the teeth look sharp when i think they should be squared off at the top, I think this is causing issues in a couple of gears which won't setup correctly. The rest of the drivetrains is brand new and seems to be working fairly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given how expensive jockey wheels are, Is it generally worth replacing the jockey wheels in a derailleur at this point, or is it better to get a new derailleur. Seems a waste as I think its been on the bike for 4 months max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit from comments:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Having examined this further. It looks like the reason its not quite shifting correctly is that the derailleur is slightly bent. The play in the jockey wheels is not excessive, but it seems to want to run at a slight angle away from the cassette&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1317" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-25T07:07:57.170" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T07:12:56.690" Title="Play in Jockey wheels Sram X7 rear derailleur" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20871" CreationDate="2014-03-25T23:00:57.357" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As other answers and comments have indicated, you can successfully ride a road bike on loose gravel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are five main factors, and they are all interconnected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The depth of the gravel.&lt;/strong&gt; The key to riding in gravel is &lt;em&gt;smooth lines&lt;/em&gt;. Avoid sharp turns: the deeper the gravel, the more your front wheel digs in and accentuates any steering movement you make. This is what causes most falls in gravel. OTOH very shallow gravel, doesn't &quot;grab&quot; your wheel. It acts like ball bearings and when you try to turn your wheels just slip out from under you. So rule 1: &lt;strong&gt;smooth lines&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The speed you attack it.&lt;/strong&gt; It takes experience to guage how fast to approach gravel; it's hard to explain. Approach a new patch of gravel cautiously. Then maintain a constant speed, even if it means getting out of the saddle to keep the power and speed up in deeper gravel. Rule 2: &lt;strong&gt;constant speed&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The width of your tires.&lt;/strong&gt; The thinner your tires the more you sink into gravel. So gravel that's not deep for MTB tires is trickier for skinny road tires. Tires on a hybrid or touring bike are generally ok for gravel with practice. So for each bike you ride, rule 3: &lt;strong&gt;learn how it handles&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The geometry of your bike.&lt;/strong&gt; A racing frame has steeper angles than a touring frame or a hybrid. The steeper angles accentuate the issues. So repeat rule 3: &lt;strong&gt;learn how it handles&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The kind of gravel.&lt;/strong&gt; From light sand with grains of 1mm to coarse gravel with 1cm (.5 in) grains, to 5 and 10 cm (2 and 4 in) rocks. Basically, when the grains are near the width of your tires, it's time to slow down. When the rocks are bigger than your tires you are running serious risks of cutting your road tires: they're just not designed for this. Rule 4: &lt;strong&gt;The larger the gravel the slower you should go&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many falls by gravel novices are due to not knowing the first two rules: smooth lines and constant speed. They are the key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After mastering those, you can step up to gravel on uphill and downhill slopes, and corners. The same rules apply, but with downhill you have to add smooth even handed braking. On uphill you have to add smooth pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy. It's a great skill to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T23:00:57.357" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20855" CreationDate="2014-03-25T23:32:20.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't going to answer the question with this, but due to the latest comment from the seeker, I figured that some photos will be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So until you get the braze-ons tapped, here is a backup solution (or a permanent if you want) that worked for me.  I found that the hardware that came with my rack was too small to thread into my bike, but did fit through the holes.  Bolts that thread into my frame didn't fit through the holes in the rack.  So what I ended up doing was taking the original bolts with me to the hardware store, rummage through the bins for 2 hex bolts, lock nuts, and lock washers that are the same size, but longer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put them on the bike with the nuts on the outside of the frame, but I still had a problem of the bolt head into the chain.  My solution was to file off the top of the bolt head until it cleared the chain.  It ended up being pretty close to the chain, so if a replacement is wider for some reason, I'll have to file some more.  However, this setup has held up well for years, a few thousand miles, and a crash.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I9DxZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close-up of bolts on inside of frame&quot;&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/njlHB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full size image&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This photo (sorry about the dirt) shows the bolt head side of the setup.  There is 2 bolts here, one on front for the rack, and the one on the back for the fenders.  The shiney here is the fender bolt, but the bolt on the front is even closer to the chain.  May not be able to get a piece of paper in there.  Yes the chain runs right by it and not over it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uDIyT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolts on outside of frame&quot;&gt;&#xA;Here is the outside of the frame showing the nuts.  Standard lock nuts with the plastic ring in them.  The washers are the wavy lock washers and not the split ring ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may update this with better photos later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-03-26T22:58:17.230" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T22:58:17.230" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-26T13:13:52.440" Score="5" ViewCount="1761" Body="&lt;p&gt;After little crash I'm hearing strange knife-like sounds from my disk brakes, but the wheel and brakes doesn't look damaged. What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10703" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-03-26T15:28:57.960" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T18:33:47.007" Title="Disc brake producing noise after a crash" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20881" CreationDate="2014-03-26T13:48:30.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's just a very short &quot;zing&quot; once every revolution, there's nothing to worry about -- it's pretty normal at least for downhill-oriented bikes to have their discs slightly out of true and bending them back will probably do more damage than good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you should either take the bike to your LBS to get the disc trued or get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/rotor-truing-fork-dt-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;truing tool&lt;/a&gt; and do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T13:48:30.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-26T15:58:13.683" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very often even without extreme riding my wheels are getting light 8-like form.&#xA;Is this the reason to change wheels or sleeve&#xA;Its more cosmetic problem which can evolute to more problems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is Giant Rebel 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10703" LastEditorUserId="10703" LastEditDate="2014-03-26T16:17:31.483" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T07:29:14.853" Title="Wheels changing on Giant Rebel 4" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-03-28T17:12:36.750" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20881" CreationDate="2014-03-26T18:33:47.007" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;An unaligned caliper (the unit that sits over the disc) is far more likely than a bent rotor. It's more exposed and susceptible to being knocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should first try to realign your disc brake caliper as this will quickly show if it is a rotor straightness or caliper alignment issue. This is a simple job and will only require the correct sized hex wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the bolts that secure the caliper to the frame or fork. If an adapter is used (generally on rear) loosen the bolts that hold the caliper to the adapter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lift the wheel off the ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spin the wheel and while it's spinning apply the brake. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let go of the brake and spin the wheel again. Apply the brake and keep it applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the brake lever still in re tighten the caliper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spin the wheel again if it still rubs you may have a slightly bent rotor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T18:33:47.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20886" CreationDate="2014-03-27T00:37:44.113" Score="6" ViewCount="16074" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know what a shifter is but I could not find a definitive answer on what an ispec shifter is or how is it different from a regular shifter. For example the 2014 shimano deore groupset says it has ispec shifters and ispec ready brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9166" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-03-27T11:20:42.360" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T13:20:17.963" Title="What is a shimano ispec shifter?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20885" CreationDate="2014-03-27T00:50:04.960" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I-spec is a Shimano-proprietary mounting system for Shimano parts. Its supposed to make mounting and adjusting brake+shift levers faster and easier by putting them on one mounting clamp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find a blurb on what it does / how it operates on the Shimano website, but the equivalent for SRAM is SRAM Matchmaker, which from their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/technologies/matchmaker-x-integrated&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The MatchMaker X clamp is more than just a clamp. It’s like having Martha Stewart tidy up your cockpit. Since each clamp accepts up to three controls, you can put everything from your XLoc suspension lockout, your SRAM shifters and AVID brake levers as well as your Reverb XLoc remote, all on two clamps. Short of genetically engineering longer thumbs, it’s the ideal way to put everything within easy reach. Just like Martha would.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're running a mix of SRAM MatchMaker and Shimano I-Spec components, you can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/mismatch_adapters&quot;&gt;Problem Solvers MisMatch adapter&lt;/a&gt; to mix them up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T00:50:04.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20859" CreationDate="2014-03-27T04:27:48.147" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to campus police reports (apparently backed by video surveillance), an organized gang of bike thieves operates in my area using techniques like this. They use the following system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A few &quot;spotters&quot; stroll around the campus and pick out the $1500+ bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An hour or so later, a different thief, dressed in coveralls etc. comes by and cuts the locks with appropriate tools. He then walks away, leaving each bike with a cut lock.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An hour or so later, a third group of thieves comes round to collect the bikes. They put away the cut locks exactly like a rider would put away a lock they own, so that it appears to onlookers that they are the owner. They then ride off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So apparently at least some of the more sophisticated thieves will go to the trouble of separating the cutting from the theft, if they know they are under surveillance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="2513" LastEditDate="2014-03-27T20:38:12.737" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T20:38:12.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20883" CreationDate="2014-03-27T05:11:59.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is going on with your wheels is known as being &lt;em&gt;out of true&lt;/em&gt;, or in its extreme form (like the photo that you provided), &lt;em&gt;taco-ed&lt;/em&gt;. This is not all that uncommon on entry level bikes like the Giant you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be caused by several different things - the most common is just general wear on the wheel. Over time, small changes in pressure on the spokes cause the tension around the wheel to become uneven, which causes the rim to warp. Other causes include poor construction of the wheel, cheap parts, or abuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have fixed your wheel several times, and it still happens, then it is likely a defect - I would take it to the shop you bought it from and ask to see if they can look into a warranty for you. I don't know Giant's warranty policy off the top of my head, but I have worked at a shop that sold Giants, and IIRC, they were generally accepting of defective stuff. Some bike shops will do everything in their power to not take in your wheel and attempt to get a warranty for it, but if you persist long enough, they will probably make a phone call or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2014-03-27T07:29:14.853" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T07:29:14.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20876" CreationDate="2014-03-27T07:47:53.533" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;looks like plastic or rubber plugs in the braze-ons. Try to remove them — I think there are a threads under them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T07:47:53.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24425" CreationDate="2014-03-27T08:38:36.740" Score="1" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cube Agree GTC (2012), and I would like to buy some tri-bars for it. I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://m.triradar.com/gear/cube-agree-gtc-road-bike-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;read&lt;/a&gt; that this model (&#xA;Although, on second thoughts, maybe this is a newer model...) has compatibility issues with clip on tri-bars so I was hoping that someone has already solved this problem, if one exists (I've never bought or clipped on tri-bars before)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone satisfactorily purchased tri-bars for this model? Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10655" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T11:01:22.323" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T12:43:14.437" Title="Cube Agree GTC - Tri-Bars" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20850" CreationDate="2014-03-27T10:55:19.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are planning your tour for Europe, you can give &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.komoot.de&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;komoot&lt;/a&gt; a try. It offers exactly that: Planning a route on PC, synchronizing it with your Android or iOS device, and letting your mobile device navigate you along your route - even with voice navigation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you have to pay for voice navigation and offline maps. You pay for each &quot;region&quot; where you want to enable these features. They &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.komoot.de/product/komplett-paket?hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;full package&lt;/a&gt; costs €30. In my opinion, it is worth the money, but you have to decide for yourself. The first region (your home region) is free, so you can try it before buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advantage of komoot is that planning a route for your bicycle already takes bicycle paths, bike lanes and roads with few cars into account. It allows you even to select if you want to go by a racing bike, road bike or mountainbike, and picks the appropriate paths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T10:55:19.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20900" CreationDate="2014-03-27T14:05:18.113" Score="8" ViewCount="2005" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never thought I'd be on the receiving end of a catastrophic failure, but I am and I am left with some questions. While reading on Wikipedia I noticed it says a con of magnetic trainers is that they are prone to breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my training this morning, my trainer failed. And it failed hard. The flywheel shattered/exploded with a sound like a gunshot. A piece of it went through the wall behind my bike, while another shot through the front of my computer (playing a great training video of course). No injuries, but I can't believe this happened! I was in highest gear during a short sprint, so the wheel was moving at a pretty good clip, but I would have thought a trainer could handle that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trainer is a Minoura Mag Trainer, not sure on the exact model, but it's a little older.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, here are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In what ways do magnetic trainers commonly fail?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was there anything I was doing wrong that caused the failure?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are newer trainers designed better and/or can they accommodate a greater speed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would another type of trainer (fluid, wind, etc) failed like this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I get a replacement flywheel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some pics of the carnage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjQeC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-27T14:56:39.920" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T23:01:07.393" Title="Magnetic trainer failure" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;&lt;failure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-27T16:57:11.120" Score="1" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question:  What is my best bet for a crankset, given the following requirements for a road bike I am setting up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;68mm &quot;English&quot; thread bottom bracket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano STI &quot;brifters&quot;, 2x10 (I already have these!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low crankset/chainring gearing approximately 24/39, similar to mountain 2x10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front index shifting works reasonably well (between the two chainrings)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other existing components are Ultegra 10-speed 12-23 cassette, Shimano 105 rear derailleur, and CX-70 front derailleur (all these parts should work with desired gearing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assume all current generation parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility I am considering is to use the Shimano 105 triple, and replace the outer ring with a guard; my only concern with this is that the spacing between inner and middle rings might not match what the 2x brifter is expecting. Various mountain cranks are possibilities, but issues with chainring spacing and chainline might come into play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my philosophy on this gearing, see this link at Rivendell Bikes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/Cranks-Chainrings-s/41.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rivbike.com/Cranks-Chainrings-s/41.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;also click the link on that page for &quot;low-wide&quot; crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10712" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T16:57:11.120" Title="Low gearing setup for road bike with Shimano dual control" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20897" CreationDate="2014-03-27T18:10:11.347" Score="4" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's assume I have an object with a mass of 3 kg. I want this object to isolate from vertical shocks and vibrations when I'm riding approximately 30 km/u on my bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's also assume I have an air suspension front fork modified and mounted on top of the bike's frame. This suspension unit carries the object I just mentioned (see figure below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGfzE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What should be the air pressure from the suspension unit to isolate most of the shocks? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it even possible to dial down the air pressure from an air suspension unit in order to isolate shocks for a relatively low mass (3 kg)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thoughts were to calculate the relation between mass and required air spring pressure level based on values in a product's manual. But the exponential decrease seems just too much for the fork to adjust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I read questions about specific products are mainly downvoted, but just for reference I included the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/tHgiGl-i5gGkjsvrXujQN0wqof99r6iaO4VCVWpP4s0/mtime:1372788167/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen0000000004392_rev_a_rockshox_oil_air_and_coil_chart_2014_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RockShox manual&lt;/a&gt; with Air Spring Pressure levels with respect to a rider's weight. I'll edit the post if this isn't appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10713" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T21:27:07.277" Title="Air suspension unit for relatively low mass" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20895" CreationDate="2014-03-27T18:42:36.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think using a suspension fork won't work - 3 kg is way lower than the usual loads a suspension fork is designed to isolate shocks at any meaningful level (the mass on the fork would be at least an order of magnitude below the usual on a bike, so it would be hard to have enough deflection to do something useful at 3 kg without bottoming out all the time on a regular load - its just too far from the operating regime of the fork normally). In any case, if it were possible, it would likely be a very sensitive adjustment that would need to be made and maintained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem has been studied to some extent in &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/image-stabilization.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cameras&lt;/a&gt; for image stabilization on bicycles, where it is suggested to directly mount a camera on a bicycle and having soft tires with some suspension (on the bicycle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The movie industry way of stabilizing a camera while it is moving is with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steadicam&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;steadicam&lt;/a&gt;. Some photography enthusiasts have made &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diyphotography.net/how-bulid-30-diy-steadycam/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;home made steadicam type things&lt;/a&gt; which you may want to start with and modify to mount on a bicycle. Unlike a real steadicam unit, these probably need to be toughened up a bit for 3 kg since my guess for the weight of a DSLR with a small lens is closer to 1 kg - 1.5 kg. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=19061&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; also suggests a vibration plate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-03-27T18:54:40.313" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T18:54:40.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20895" CreationDate="2014-03-27T19:09:19.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fairly easy to compute (or at least estimate) the surface area of the piston and divide that into the weight of the object suspended to obtain the pressure needed to keep it &quot;levitated&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume a piston with a diameter of 2&quot; (5.1cm) -- that's (conveniently) 3.14 square inches.  Divide that into 3 KG or 6.6 pounds (ignoring the weight of the piston itself) and you get about 2.1 PSI or 0.14 ATM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you use a piston rated at a significantly higher pressure than the above the friction in the cylinder is apt to require a pound or so to overcome, so it's unlikely that you can use a standard suspension fork effectively for this duty.  Something along the line of a &quot;gas strut&quot; might work, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T19:09:19.283" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20895" CreationDate="2014-03-27T21:27:07.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think (like the other answers) a suspension fork will do it.  There's another reason as well - suspension forks only isolate vibrations in one linear dimension, as you go over bumps, as well as up and down you will accelerate and decelerate, and pitch up and down.  So here are some other thoughts.  We might be able to offer more help if you give some idea of what the object is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not unknown to use an underinflated inner tube as a shock absorber for light loads - but that's generally a flat object on a flat surface.  Providing suspension for a light object can be done by hanging it in a frame using bungee cords (shock cords).  The rubber provides some damping so it's better than just springs.  Might be hard to fit between you and the bars - but then if I was doing 30km/h over rough ground I wouldn't want a set of forks pointing at my chest as you've shown.  Either on a modified rack behind or in a modified front basket would be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever means you use, for best performance you need to tune the system - with some means of sensing the vibration (smartphone app these days?) and adjusting either the thickness of the cords or the mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T21:27:07.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20920" CreationDate="2014-03-27T21:51:06.567" Score="4" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought month ago new full suspension bike &quot;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kellysbike.com/int/bikes-2013/mountain/fullsuspension/beast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kellys Beast 2013&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. When I maintained it, I noticed that there seems to be a shim missing on one rear pivot:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7vtc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most interesting that it is symmetrical and on the other side of the wheel is also an empty space for a shim. So I am confused. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there really a missing shim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; The bike stands head over heels, so it's view from below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10389" LastEditorUserId="10389" LastEditDate="2014-03-28T09:36:51.117" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T23:34:33.043" Title="Is there not enough shim on my suspension pivot?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20893" CreationDate="2014-03-27T22:27:55.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start with some quick maths. I'm guessing the roller has a diameter of 40mm based on the picture. Since it's in contact with the tyre, whatever speed your speedo reads is how fast that roller is going. But it's 40mm in diameter. So, at 72kph / 45mph we have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Speed = 72kph = 20m/s&#xA;Diameter = 40mm = 0.04m&#xA;Circumference = π d = 0.125m&#xA;Revs per second = 20 / 0.125 = 160 Hz (9500 rpm)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The magnetic rotor is bigger, perhaps 100mm diameter, and we want the centripetal acceleration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;a =  v² / r&#xA;  = 20² / 0.05 = 800 m/s² (about 80G!)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that that scales with the square of the speed. So at 108kph / 70mph you're going 50% faster but the force on the outside of the rotor is 2.25 times bigger (about 180G).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. In what ways do magnetic trainers commonly fail?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one you care about is overspeed. Either explosion due to too much centripetal acceleration, or an imbalance causing the shaft or mount to break. It looks as though your one failed that way, either through the trainer being knocked at some point or being slightly out of balance when it was made. I've also seen bearings fail through overheating, although that shouldn't happen now because bearings are so much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2. Was there anything I was doing wrong that caused the failure? &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly going too fast, possibly going too far. If the flywheel was slightly out of balance it would probably fail eventually regardless of how slowly you went, but if you look at the centripetal acceleration, since that depends on the square of the velocity so does the &quot;wear&quot; caused by being out of balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;3.  Are newer trainers designed better and/or can they accommodate a greater speed? &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly, and I would hope so. It's been a few years since I broke one, but I've never been a world class cyclist and I have broken two different trainers simply by putting too much power into them (one admittedly at about 1300W). The problem is, to some extent, intractable. People want cheap, light, quiet trainers, but those trainers have to somehow get rid of 500W or more of power for as long as you care to sit on them. Doing that in a light, quiet, cheap container is hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;4. Would another type of trainer (fluid, wind, etc) failed like this?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably. If you bought one with a bigger fan or other dump zone, no. But that would mean the old school &quot;bike wheel with fan blades riveted on&quot; that people hate so much. One alternative that would work is the &quot;pedal powered generator&quot; setup that the green kids are so fond of building, because they usually have bigger flywheels that consequently rotate more slowly (and as I keep saying, the problems go up with the square of the speed, so twice the roller diameter means 1/4 the force). But they're big, heavy and expensive compared to a trainer, and you have to build your own if you want that power output (commercial ones seem to top out at about 200W - I keep looking because I'd like one rated to 500W).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;5. Can I get a replacement flywheel?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's up to the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T22:27:55.847" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-28T01:50:30.663" Score="0" ViewCount="1992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the name of it but there is a part on single speed bikes. The gear? I think right where the crank is connected. Well on bmx bikes and especially dirt jumping bikes it is really small and if it is small then that means you have to pedal a lot more to go faster. Well can that gear part or whatever is connected to the crank be changed to a bigger single speed to pedal less? Sorry for not knowing the name guys please help though it's important before I buy this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10719" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-03-28T13:59:04.863" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T06:56:57.177" Title="Can I change chainring size on a dirt jump bike?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20901" CreationDate="2014-03-28T02:52:39.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called a chain ring and, yes, it can be changed to whatever you want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.commencal-store.it/shop/895-thickbox_default/mountain-bike-dirt-jump-commencal-absolut-al-2014.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.commencal-store.it/shop/895-thickbox_default/mountain-bike-dirt-jump-commencal-absolut-al-2014.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dirt bike above has cranks which seem to use chainrings of type 104mm bcd 4-bolt. So any 104 bcd chainring will do the job. E.g:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPx39.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPx39.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclesportsuk.co.uk/images/Chainrings_MTB/extra_10274/RED.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cyclesportsuk.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if it is small then that means you have to pedal a lot more to go faster&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is correct, but usually those bikes have a very small cog at the rear. So you really don't have to pedal like crazy to go fast. Note though that the main purpose of those bikes is not to go fast but to jump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-03-01T06:56:57.177" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T06:56:57.177" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20903" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-28T03:10:22.743" Score="6" ViewCount="2569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Miche Primato bottom bracket and tried installing it using Park's BBT-5 (the same tool I used to remove the previous bottom bracket, also Miche, but from 2008). The BBT-5 fit into the right hand side cup without a problem, but I had trouble fitting it into the left hand side. I noticed that one of the splines is different than the others. Is this normal, or is this part defective or damaged somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spline in question is right below &quot;ITALY&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8krp3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help, I'd like to be sure before I complain to the shop I bought it from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="716" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T04:40:31.793" Title="Do Miche bottom brackets require a special tool, or is this one damaged?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15902" CreationDate="2014-03-28T11:53:59.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my levers I use tight rubber O-rings. I did them myself out of old tube.&#xA;This levers are easy to disassemble — to get QR pins out just press on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T11:53:59.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20908" CreationDate="2014-03-28T15:19:11.917" Score="2" ViewCount="2676" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm possibly getting a disc brake, 2013 Specialized Camber 29er without the wheelset. I was looking on wheelbuilder to see how much a wheelset might be (to save weight over factory replacement), and I'm a little confused by the different types of hubs available. They have ISO, center pull, straight pull center lock, and then various different brand versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be doing a lot of trail riding, with some racing (Barnburner 104, Whisky 50), so enduro/cross country/marathon, primarily more towards the marathon side. I'm not big into downhill and extreme technical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of wheelset should I be looking at, and how does that affect the hub that I choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T21:59:43.737" Title="What are the differences in mountain bike hubs (With wheelset recommendation)?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-28T15:43:56.033" Score="5" ViewCount="1327" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several hill climb events in my area towards the end of the year, from august onward. Most of the hills are no longer than 0.8km long and well above an average 6% gradient. The main ones I will be targeting are three climbs ranging from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; 0.7km, average gradient of 7% (and a max of 14%), personal best is: 2:25 &#xA;&#xA; 0.5km, average gradient of 10% (and a max of 13.5%), personal best is: 1:51&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and finally the local leg breaker (its hardly Colombia where I live I know):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; 0.8km climb with and average of 13% (and a max of 15%), personal best is: 4:44&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am warmed up correctly could I race each of these time trials in my respective power ranges of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 minute (434W)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 minute (374W)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3 minute (346W)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;4 minute (340W)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;5 minute (336W)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or would I stick to my ftp (220W) for the duration of the climb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sticking to functional threshold power is my current strategy but found it hard going just because of the steepness of the climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T18:21:51.533" Title="Hill climb Time Trial pacing strategy for short steep hills?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20906" CreationDate="2014-03-28T20:30:38.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look at wheelsets that are for your specific riding style. if you're looking to choose a full wheelset from a specific manufacturer (e.g. Mavic) that includes all of hub/rim/spokes and even tire, then go to their websites for more information. These are generally lighter than a normal wheel that you can build up yourself. If you want to build up one yourself, first find a hub that fits your bike. MTN hubs come in various types based on quick release, so check what type of quick release your bike has and then look for hubs that match. as for your question on hub types, here's a quick guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ISO: 32 or 36 holes made for wheels that are laced 3 cross. they have a 6-bolt pattern for the disc. see here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_ISO_disc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://chrisking.com/hubs/hbs_ISO_disc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;in some instances, these hubs can be laced without crossing spokes, but you run a higher risk of hub failure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straight(center) pull: this means that the spokes don't cross one another. in other words, they extend straight out from the hub. This lessens weight, but is generally avoided because they place more tension on the rims and aren't as stiff. there are also wheels that will have one side 2/3 cross and one side straight pull. These are for rear wheels and front disc wheels and lessen weight while keeping stiffness on the side with the disc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straight Pull center lock: see above for info on spokes. the only difference is that instead of having a six-bolt pattern for the disc mount, they have a shimano center lock disc mount. the advantage of center lock is that they are easier to install (6 individual bolts vs. 1 lockring) which allows them to have smaller hub flanges. The advantage of smaller hub flanges is that wheels are more comfortable to ride (If you've ever ridden a purpose built track bike over potholes, you may know the feeling). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you have a set of rotors, check what style they are(6-bolt or center-lock) and choose hubs based on those. if you don't have rotors, find the set of brakes you have on the bike, or the brakes that you want on the bike, and determine based on that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;once you have the hubs, choose the rims:&#xA;rims come in various styles and sizes based on your riding style. first thing is to check the size of the rim. some models only come in one size (26&quot;, 27.5&quot;/650B, 29'er) generally wider equals heavier and more aggressive. most companies that sell rims sell them based on riding style. make sure that the number of holes on the rim matches what you have on your hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after that you can choose the spokes and nipples. if you are using standard 32/36 hole rims, and ISO hubs, then just about any standard LBS will have spokes for your wheel. You can reduce weight by getting spokes that are butted/double butted/triple butted, but they are far more expensive. If you get specially designed rims or hubs, you generally need to get spokes that match that rim type. higher end hubs/rims generally require this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;based on your question it isn't clear whether you are against getting a full single-manufacturer wheelset, but I hope this clears some things up and helps you get the right wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastEditorUserId="10707" LastEditDate="2014-03-28T21:59:43.737" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T21:59:43.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20734" CreationDate="2014-03-28T20:48:29.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest change you can make is to swap your big front ring for a smaller one. If you currently have 34/50 on the front, change it to 34/44. Your easiest gear on the big ring would go from 47 gear inches down to 42 (and the hardest from 110 to 97). If your front shifter is indexed it might not shift as quickly, but it should be OK because it will be a smaller difference between the two rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rear cassette... If you want optimum gear choice for easy spinning, choose a rear cassette with close gear ratios, like the Shimano Tiagra 9-speed 14-25. It is compatible with SRAM 9 speed, and is available from Chain Reaction for less than $20 US. (SRAM does not offer a comparable close-spaced cassette.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pick the 14-25 cassette you will probably want to go much smaller with your big front ring, maybe 40 or 42 depending on how big a top gear you need. I rode this cassette for a year with a 40t big ring (in my flat, windy area), and I never missed having bigger gears. As always, Sheldon Brown's Gear Calculator is a great help in making these decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note is that none of the changes above would force you to change your rear derailleur, although you would need to shorten your chain (or get a new one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10712" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T20:48:29.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20907" CreationDate="2014-03-28T22:00:46.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Functional threshold power is defined as the maximum power you can produce for one hour. See for example, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/12/07/peaks-coaching-what-is-functional-threshold-power-ftp/&quot;&gt;blog&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you know that your events are &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; shorter, you don't have to be so conservative. And since you know your output for the approximate times those courses take,  you should plan that level of output for the race. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with that approach different people will have different ideas on whether to go at the same power all the way or keep some in reserve for the steep bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is that the slow sections are where you lose time, so keep some power in reserve for the steep parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T22:00:46.550" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-29T14:11:35.180" Score="3" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;When installing a 700-18/23C tube, does the nut on the valve stem go inside the tire (unseen once the tire is on the wheel rim) or outside the rim (so it is seen among the spokes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10729" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T18:42:16.103" Title="installing a 700-18-23C tube on a bicycle" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20912" CreationDate="2014-03-29T14:21:29.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It goes outside the rim, where you can see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not even strictly necessary. It really only exists to keep the valve stem in place while you air the tire up, which makes the whole process much easier. Weight weenies throw them away to save a couple grams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that if you use it, you don't want to screw it down too tight. Doing so can crimp your tube in the valve hole, causing it to puncture. Screw it on just enough to get the pump nozzle onto the valve. That's all you need. If airing the tire up exposes more of the valve, go ahead and screw it down until it just touches the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: The tube size is actually irrelevant. The installation is the same for any tube with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/283/4239&quot;&gt;Presta valve&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T18:42:16.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20918" CreationDate="2014-03-29T15:05:27.550" Score="4" ViewCount="77139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty heavy (~150kg/330lbs) but being fond of cycling in the past, I decided to buy a bike, and maybe try to lose a few kilos with it. I didn't have too much time for looking around, so I bought a used (but in excellent shape) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/global/en/products/221751005/bike-aspect-20-black-green-xs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scott Aspect 20&lt;/a&gt; from some guy living close by. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm wondering if the tires/wheels can hold me, and what pressure should I pump the tires to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rims are Alex TD17 32H and the tires are Schwalbe Hurricane 26x2.0 (2.5-5.0 bar). I'm planning to ride within the city (so mostly paved surfaces, maybe a few unpaved sections here and there). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10730" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2014-03-29T16:37:08.337" LastActivityDate="2018-12-21T10:15:30.813" Title="Will my bike hold my weight?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20914" CreationDate="2014-03-29T16:37:09.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the people at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/support/faq/BikeFaq/Seizing&amp;amp;Weight/#FAQ010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scott&lt;/a&gt;, the general weight limit for a rider is 110 kg. You are significantly above this, so the manufacturer doesn't necessarily support you on that. The wheels durability depends a lot on who built them and how well they were built and if they have taken any damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are in a YMMV (and at your own risk) range by sticking with that bike and wheelset (I'd probably go for more spokes), but you may want to go to a bike shop and get the bike tuned up to make sure the wheels are in good condition and what not, and hope for the best (and do repairs as spokes break and what not, if they do). It helps if you don't ride like a hooligan as well (like not dropping off curbs and what not). I think this is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/10/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-designing-frames-and-components-for-big-riders_306560&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;good article&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trek specifies the max rider weight on most of their bikes to be around 300 lbs, which is probably closer to more comfortable than that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, fit is arguably more important for big riders than small riders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The realistic thing to do (all at your own risk of course) is get the bike checked out to make sure its in good condition, and ride and replace things as they break. Avoid road hazards and be careful. Many bigger riders exceed their quoted weight limits on their bikes, but the factor is usually not around 35-40%. You may also want to look at some bike forums for big riders riding similar bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other things to consider are recumbent bikes/trikes. These may be a bit more comfortable as well. There are also some manufacturers which build heavier rider-oriented bicycles (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worksmancycles.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Worksman Cycles&lt;/a&gt;, which coincidentally today I found is the oldest bicycle manufacturer in the US, stocks things which can take up to quoted 500 pounds [though, your bike shop probably knows some bikes which have worked for heavy riders in your area]). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T05:22:03.850" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T05:22:03.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2014-03-29T16:52:44.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the veloplugs, but for touring and commuting I put a strip of vinyl electrical tape over the top of them so I don't lose plugs when changing tires. On a low pressure tire I don't have a big preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10731" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T16:52:44.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20914" CreationDate="2014-03-29T22:12:02.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Offhand, that bike looks pretty good for your needs, aside from the front suspension and the 32H wheels.  The tires are good and wide, and if you keep them well inflated (&lt;strong&gt;above 4 bar&lt;/strong&gt;) they should handle your weight OK.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front shock has lockout, so if it sags too much you can just keep it locked most of the time.  Of course, you will be stressing the wheels and tires, in particular, beyond what's &quot;normal&quot;, so you may experience broken spokes and the like.  But since you won't be going offroad and probably won't jump too many curbs, you shouldn't do too badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find the seat not to your liking, but give it a try, and then shop around for something that looks better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a bike that will last 20 years with a 300lb rider, but you can probably get 2-3 years out of it, by which time you will be down to 80 kg and in the market for a carbon racer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T22:12:02.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20922" CreationDate="2014-03-29T22:14:00.967" Score="1" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been spinning for the last two years and looking to purchase my first road bike, comparing road, touring, cyclocross and hybrid. I won't race, but do look to ride weekly &amp;amp; take some 40-80 mile rides on rough pavement/light gravel. I have up to $1200, what do you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10735" LastEditorUserId="10735" LastEditDate="2014-03-30T14:38:05.167" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T14:38:05.167" Title="Bike for mixed use" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20899" CreationDate="2014-03-29T23:34:33.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very possible that during assembly, the pieces were missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to see if you can shift the seat-stay or chain-stay sideways on the pivot. If you can, you definitely need to find another bushing to fit in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is sideways play in that pivot, it will wear out prematurely. You'll also get all sorts of dirt and debris stuck in there, which will also wear out the pivot much quicker than if it were covered with a bushing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you could do is go to a brick and mortar store that sells the same brand of bike and see if the bikes in the store are also missing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8655" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T23:34:33.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5884" CreationDate="2014-03-30T04:12:11.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heatshrink &lt;em&gt;SOLVES&lt;/em&gt; this problem completely.  Go to radioshack, buy the smallest about of heatshrink you can that'll fit, get a heat gun or a lighter or even a blowdrier in a pinch, and say goodbye to the rattling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10738" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T04:12:11.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20919" CreationDate="2014-03-30T08:10:12.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This started as a comment but I must be in a wordy mood this morning - here's a suggestion and a few things to consider.&#xA;First though, when it comes to brand, any of the &quot;proper&quot; brands would do, it depends what you're comfortable on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For multi-purpose use I recommend a hybrid with flat bars - but add ergo grips and/or bar ends.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hybrids generally have rack attachment points, often for a front rack as well, and will take a wider range of tyres than road bikes -- mine (GT traffic) has 35mm, I'll switch to 28  on the same rims when I need to replace them anyway, and you could easily fit much wider tyres if you wanted.  Road bikes often max out at something too narrow for even the lightest gravel, though drop-bar tourers are better for this and I'm sure others here will recommend them. The riding position takes less getting used to than a road bike, and it the road gets a bit too rough -- e.g. potholes -- I find it easier to stand on the pedals of a flat bar bike -- partly to do with the brake positioning on a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention hills, but they're a consideration when choosing gears -- while I'm sure there are people here who could do steep hills in twice as high a gear as I do.,if you're just starting to ride for real, you probably want quite a wide rang. Once again this says hybrid or tourer to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T08:10:12.520" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3341" CreationDate="2014-03-30T09:02:30.240" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do shortish rides 20-40 mins grab a spray bottle and spray the brake rotors very lightly tho. It should stop for that period of time if it doesn't stop then it means your brakes are contaminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10740" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T09:02:30.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20927" CreationDate="2014-03-30T19:56:25.563" Score="5" ViewCount="5891" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do trail riding with some technical elements, and I have decided to upgrade my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/product-images-large/met-kaos-ul-helmet-matt-black-76209.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;normal helmet&lt;/a&gt; to some sort of a full-face helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen some sturdy-looking helmets, which resemble the motorcycle ones (&lt;a href=&quot;http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/products/10775/photos/9570/s780_phobos_anchor_grey_1.jpg?1352983743&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;). However, their ventilation looks bad, so I don't want these. I am interested in the lighter variant, which looks like a normal helmet with a chin guard attached to it (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biggerbids.com/members/images/12745/public/964924_met-parachute-black2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;) - chin guard may or may not actually be removable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I get the latter type of helmet, do I get significantly better protection, comparing to non-full-face helmets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, will it protect me from a direct face-plant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a significant risk of the chin guard snapping and hurting me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter if the chin guard is made of metal or plastic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T23:59:58.977" Title="Are helmets with chin guards safer than those without?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-30T21:42:13.600" Score="3" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;The events in questions are no longer than one kilometer and have a gradient that fluctuates between 7% and 13%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="10707" LastEditDate="2014-03-30T22:04:40.637" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T18:24:11.157" Title="How do you use a power meter to pace yourself during steep hill time trial events?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14405" CreationDate="2014-03-30T21:46:16.810" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks similar.  You could whack off the head and hopefully the hose inlet to the pump is the right size.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sears.com/custom-building-products-replacement-pump-hose-20inch/p-SPM6180332701?prdNo=10&amp;amp;blockNo=10&amp;amp;blockType=G10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sears.com/custom-building-products-replacement-pump-hose-20inch/p-SPM6180332701?prdNo=10&amp;amp;blockNo=10&amp;amp;blockType=G10&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is listed as 3/16&quot; hose connector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10744" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T21:46:16.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20924" CreationDate="2014-03-30T23:59:58.977" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish they had them 20 years ago when I was much younger and rode much more difficult terrain, with much less respect (aka fear) than I now have. (I ride mostly technical XC, not downhill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far a protection goes, if the choice is a traditional light weight helmet or one like this, you will be better off with this. It is not an alternate to a down hill helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Negative internet commentary on these tends to come from Downhill riders who do not believe they offer any real protection. As far as down hill riding, they are correct. They also tend to be good enough not to fall off on easy ground, and know how to fall if they do, so see no benefit over a light weight helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have seen some pretty horrendous injuries (google &quot;Bicycle face plant&quot;) from riders face planting on paved and easy gravel roads. Most times its inexperienced riders doing silly things, rarely an experienced rider getting taken out by someone/something. These helmets are ideal for a XC rider who wants to keep his teeth and pretty looks, but is not prepared to spend hours suffocating under a heavy downhill helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it protect you from a face plant - For XC and road riding, face plants injure the face, its messy, painful and scars last a lifetime, as does the loss of teeth. Your face will be protected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Risk of chin guard snapping - at that point it would have been your jaw.... if you expect to fall off that hard, get a down hill helmet. If it does snap off, it has certainly done its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T23:59:58.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14928" CreationDate="2014-03-31T08:34:31.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;User6527 is wrong there. You can not use derailleur shifters due to the different cable length that is pulled or pushed to shift to another gear. You can not use other brands' shifters either for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shifter you mention yourselve is available in black and silver, and both with and without integrated brake lever. There is also a 'cheaper' version: SL-3S41E.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought there was a retro alternative as well, but I can't find it. Not online, and even not at our bicycle parts wholesaler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T08:34:31.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20925" CreationDate="2014-03-31T10:10:49.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to do would be to get some data about your max power outputs over different gradients &amp;amp; conditions.  So you'll want to know what you can sustain over a 10% 3 km climb, or a 10k climb at 5%.  You'll also need to know how this fits into different length rides - you'll be able to output a higher average over 15 km than you would over 30 km.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relationship between power, gradient, cadence, gear and speed is complex.  Increasing power will cause your cadence to rise, thus speeding you up.  The steeper the gradient, the more resistance there will be, so it'll take more power to remain at a steady cadence (in the same gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dividing your power by your weight will give you a watts/kg rating which is useful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know all this data, you'll be able to look at a hill and know that, all else being equal, you'll give your best performance if you maintain, say, 4 w/kg for the climb.  You can then use your powermeter output to adjust your effort accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Mind you, if I understand the event description correctly, I suspect that over that sort of distance you are best off just pushing on the pedals as hard as you can.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastEditorUserId="9031" LastEditDate="2014-03-31T10:28:56.000" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T10:28:56.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-31T12:12:00.023" Score="2" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a retro road bike and found a Gudereit T30 with a steel frame, 12 gears, and Mavic rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I compare this bike to more common bikes to figure out its value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing the shifters and gears seems easy (DuraAce-Ultegra-105), but how do I compare the steel frame and wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cl.ly/image/1g1h2G0c2d2O&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cl.ly/image/1g1h2G0c2d2O&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cl.ly/image/2b2m2G2l0J0w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cl.ly/image/2b2m2G2l0J0w&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastEditorUserId="10626" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T16:37:48.313" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T16:37:48.313" Title="How to compare old road bikes" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-04-03T17:01:09.530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20935" CreationDate="2014-03-31T12:31:35.847" Score="9" ViewCount="90034" Body="&lt;p&gt;My front disk brake's piston doesn't fully retract.  While I can ride the bike, the brake is slightly rubbing.  (IE, if I just spin the wheel with my hand, it'll go around about one and a half times and then stop.) It's definitely slowing me down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this fixable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advice I got was that it's not worth the trouble and to buy a replacement set.  The current brakes are Avid Juicy 7s that are about 7 years old&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2014-03-31T12:50:05.077" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T19:43:36.180" Title="Hydraulic Disk brake piston not fully retracting" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20936" CreationDate="2014-03-31T13:15:36.833" Score="3" ViewCount="3112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I reanimated an old city bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front brakes work fine but the brakes squeaks. So I cleaned the rim and brakes, now the fork shakes on braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is wrong and how can I fix this?&#xA;Change the brake pads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2014-03-31T13:52:07.997" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T14:17:14.117" Title="Fork shakes on braking" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20930" CreationDate="2014-03-31T13:17:08.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A reasonable estimate can be found using a site like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Blue Book&lt;/a&gt;. This site is a database of used bike sale transactions going back for almost a decade, and has a number of pretty obscure manufacturers listed. You can even add upgrades you have made from the stock and get an estimate of how that changes the value, though it doesn't account for things like racks, fenders and lighting systems you would add to a bike to make it a competent commuter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sold 4 bikes within the last 6 months, and all 4 sold within a reasonable range of what was listed on that site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T13:17:08.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-31T14:22:59.070" Score="6" ViewCount="9723" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a stand alone ANT+ to Bluetooth Low Energy (BTLE) bridge device?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Garmin Edge 810, which uses ANT+ ... but I would also like to track my rides on my iPhone 5S (which has BTLE, but ANT+ is a hassle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a device that will correctly bridge ANT+ to BTLE so the iPhone will pick up the data as well as my 810.  I specifically want the bridge to work with a HRM, speed/cadence sensor (combo, like Garmin GSC10), and separate speed &amp;amp; cadence sensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the 4iiii Viiiva, but it doesn't work properly due to a proprietary protocol (or just lack of adoption by the app developers).  I had high hopes for this device, but it can't provide accurate data (yet).  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geekyramblings.net/2013/12/03/viiiiva-hrm/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.geekyramblings.net/2013/12/03/viiiiva-hrm/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know about the Wahoo RFLKT, but I don't need the display and would prefer something cheaper that I can stuff in my jersey pocket or seat bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need something that will handle multiple devices at the same time without dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 9/29: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual upload issue is kind of moot now, as Garmin connect can now upload my rides to Strava automatically.  I can now turn on BT at the end of my ride and the 810 will upload the ride to Garmin Connect and Garmin uploads to Strava. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The live tracking was never a critical function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd still like to get some kind of bridge so I can use my ANT+ accessories on the bike when using a trainer and an iPad trainer app without having to use the Wahoo ANT adapter.  I'll probably be upgrading to a lightning based iPad and I've heard the 30 pin adapter for lightning devices tends to be iffy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4495" LastEditorUserId="4495" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T16:08:16.800" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T23:29:32.133" Title="ANT+ to Bluetooth Low Energy bridge?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2014-09-29T13:00:54.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20931" CreationDate="2014-03-31T17:31:43.483" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try repairing them before binning them and purchasing the Shimano upgrade. If there is no obvious fluid leak around the piston the seals are likely in good order and you've got a sticky piston rather than a failed calliper. This is a simple fix:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove wheel and brake pads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a flat headed item hold the working piston in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squeeze the lever, the non-retracting piston should be fully out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While holding the lever wipe around the piston with a clean lint free cloth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Still holding lever lubricate the retracting bit of the piston with a bit of brake fluid (DOT 4 or 5.1, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; oil, as this may damage the seals and/or might work through the seals and mix with the brake fluid)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the lever and repeat lubricating 5 more times, the piston should now be retracting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe off any residual brake fluid from the caliper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a brake block to push both pistons evenly back into the caliper. Pull the lever with the block in to align.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Refit the pads and wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Realign the caliper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note, never pull the lever when there's nothing in between the two pistons. It's hard to separate pads and near impossible to separate pistons without bleeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Juicy 7s were good brakes, if they aren't broken there's no point rushing out to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T15:02:50.007" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T15:02:50.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20932" CreationDate="2014-03-31T17:49:26.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What did you clean the pads with? If there is residue left on them, this can cause the stuttering that you speak of. The angle of the pads also matters. You should toe them in so that the front edge hits first, to minimize squeaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another potential problem is a loose headset (as mentioned by a commentor). Grab your stem in one hand and fork in the other. See if there is play by shaking back and forth. If you feel something loose, you may need to adjust your headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more possible reason for your issue is that your pads have not been tightened enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that usually pads need some time to wear in, and match the rim. Until this happens, you will probably experience sub-optimal braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T17:49:26.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20932" CreationDate="2014-03-31T18:49:59.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually you can get around this by adjusting the toe-in of the brake pads - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;If that fails, you can swap in higher quality pads. Usually this works for even cheap brakes and forks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4664" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T18:49:59.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20939" CreationDate="2014-03-31T19:18:41.583" Score="4" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.firefoxbikes.com/BikeDetails.aspx?BikeId=53&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Firefox Roadrunner Pro&lt;/a&gt;. I wanted to know if it was a good idea to install an internal hub gear on it. I want to install it to reduce dust accumulation and oiling and to simplify the wheel-removal process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been told the I would need to add a new chain tension-er and that would eat away the advantages of the hub gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And which gear hubs would give a better gear ratio than i already have with my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Shimano-MF-TZ21-7-Speed-Freewheel-Cassette-14-28T-for-MTB-Road-Cycling-Bike-/230807084811&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;SHIMANO TZ21 14-28T, 7 speed&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8135" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T19:46:22.370" Title="Is it a good idea to switch to hub gear?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20938" CreationDate="2014-03-31T19:46:22.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd be spending more than the bike is worth even for a basic internal gear hub (even assuming you got the wheel rebuilt for free using the existing rim and spokes, if possible), let alone buying a rear wheel with an IGH built in. You do need a chain tensioning pulley or horizontal dropouts, which while can be built more robustly than most derailleurs, still is more complicated than most people who want an IGH would deal with and eliminates one of the key advantages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want better gearing, your best bet is probably to use a different freewheel (TZ71 is a 7 speed shimano freewheel - note that this is not the same as a cassette). If you want a lower gear, you may want to find an old 7 speed Shimano Megarange freewheel (or more likely, you'l probably have to go Sunrace these days). Any higher probably doesn't make much sense (Sunrace makes a 13t I think in 7 speed, but its not buying you much, with that style of bike - just spin faster). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the wheel with an IGH on that bike would be about as complex as without it due to the pulley, so you're not significantly changing the complexity. Cleaning is about as difficult as well, with a chain cleaner like the Park Tool CG-2, and you still have to oil occasionally either way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want an easier way to remove the rear wheel, consider getting a quick release wheel if you do not have one already (if you have a solid axle, you could try adding axle release).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, with a bike of that quality, you're best off just keeping it running and if you want to do any upgrades, just buy a better bike to begin with and then start upgrading it. If you want to run an IGH, look for something designed for it (likely, it will have horizontal dropouts - think something like Surly CrossCheck). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T19:46:22.370" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20925" CreationDate="2014-03-31T21:49:52.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using your power data to make sure you aren't going too hard out of the gate, like with any time trial.  Try to keep your power in the Threshold-VO2 max range, with a high cadence,  until you're within striking distance and then drop the hammer to the finish line.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.trainingpeaks.com/blog/article/power-training-levels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;More on determining power levels here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes you know how long you can hold a sustained AC level (aerobic capacity) effort.  I would try to pace it so that you are ramping up your power into the finish, not a big burst at 200 meters out and then a gradual taper in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the character of the climbs, I think some pre-riding of the course would be as, if not more, beneficial than power data for such short efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastEditorUserId="6533" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T18:24:11.157" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T18:24:11.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20942" CreationDate="2014-04-01T00:22:59.747" Score="4" ViewCount="2059" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a 2014 Giant TCX SLR 2, and noticed in the spec sheet that the frame is &quot;Electronic Ready&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-ca/bikes/model/tcx.slr.2/17669/73500/#specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-ca/bikes/model/tcx.slr.2/17669/73500/#specifications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping this would mean ready for a speed/cadence sensor but that seems to be &quot;RideSense ready&quot; in terms of Giant lingo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T00:43:27.743" Title="What does &quot;Electronic Ready&quot; mean on a Giant Frame?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20941" CreationDate="2014-04-01T00:43:27.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on comparison with the Giant Defy Advanced line, it seems to mean that you can run an electronic drivetrain (such as Shimano Di2 parts) - you have to mount things like a battery in order for the shifters to work and what not, so the frame will need to have the wiring harnesses and battery pack mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/photos/giant-2012-road-launch/179020&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; shows the TCR line in 2012 with this done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does an electronic drive train mean for most people? Likely, just an emptier wallet. But thats a different question all together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T00:43:27.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20890" CreationDate="2014-04-01T00:52:22.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the review, it simply sounds like the cross-section of the bar is different than a usual bar. So, if you want to attach tri-bars to the bike, you may need to get a new drop bar (which has the usual circular cross-section), and then attach the tri bars to that bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if the bike works well with the new drop bar and tri bars are all highly a function of you and the particular bike, which we can't really determine over the internet - You'll probably just have to try it or get advice from your LBS on it, since they can probably fit you in a tri-position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T00:52:22.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16213" CreationDate="2014-04-01T01:55:04.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my bicycle for street freestyle stunting.. and from my experience, larger rotors provide better control vs. more stopping power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use my front brake to do stoppies (a stunt where the front brake is applied to tip the bike onto the front wheel and continue rolling). When I upgraded to a 203mm rotor, I noticed that it required less lever movement to keep the rear end up and the front wheel rolling as compared to the 160mm rotor that required considerably more lever travel to modulate. The interesting thing was, that I was able to roll stoppies for longer distances which is in the direct opposition of the statement that 203mm rotors decrease stopping distances. I am not disregarding the fact that a larger rotor increases power, I'm simply saying that larger rotors seem to affect the braking control much more than actual braking power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you are actually looking for more power, upgrading to 4 pot brake calipers really make a difference. I run an Avid Code in the rear of my bike to stop me from tipping over during wheelies. The extra piston increases the size of the pad and nearly doubles the pad's surface area, allowing it to 'grab' more of the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10749" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T10:58:05.907" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T10:58:05.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20925" CreationDate="2014-04-01T03:06:49.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your previous question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20907/hill-climb-tt-pacing-strategy-for-short-steep-hills&quot;&gt;hill climb tt pacing strategy for short steep hills?&lt;/a&gt;, I got the idea that you know where the races will be and can practice on those hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not the case, find some other hills to practice on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do practice rides with the power meter.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, by using the meter, you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; develop more power. If you want something to change then measure it. Make sure you follow a proper training and recovery schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you will learn how it feels, at a given power level. &lt;em&gt;And&lt;/em&gt; how it feels when you're ready to bonk. Maybe you'll decide you don't like to have the thing telling you what to do, or maybe it will spur you on. But you need to learn to hear what your body is saying; it doesn't always produce the same feelings and performance every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, do some tests and keep records. No one can definitively tell you the best way for &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; to race. Only you (or a personal coach) can discover that. And different people are ... different. That's why sport is so unpredictable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tests you might try are variations of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;constant power, matching your power to the expected duration of the climb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;constant speed, increasing your power on the steep bits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a combination of those, so that you a maximum power limit for flatter parts, and a target speed for steeper parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;either of those, then flat out at the end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gearing: test which gears give you the best results. As you train, the best gear may change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose some different power levels or different speeds and see how you go. What happens if you do the same hill with 5% more power? Does it work, or do you fade out? What happens if you try at one speed, then try 1kph faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep reading the various blogs related to power meters and climbing. Affordable power meters are new and we are still learning how to use them best. Remember that you are your own coach, so set out a training plan for the athlete you are coaching (you). Make sure every session has a goal, and give your athlete some training variation. And then come back to the same test, to see what progress is being made. There are more books and blogs on this topic too :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T03:06:49.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21140" CreationDate="2014-04-01T05:08:12.460" Score="3" ViewCount="4912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a steel frame (Columbus steel, made by Dancelli), and when I put weight on the ends of the handle bar, I hear a creaking noise from the headtube. It might not be the handlebar because I tried applying force on the headtube while holding the top tube and I heard the same creaking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't pinpoint where the noise is coming from ... is there a way to find that out and fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7793" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T02:45:09.553" Title="&quot;Creaking&quot; noise from headtube/handlebar" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20946" CreationDate="2014-04-01T08:52:41.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite hard to locate origin of sound like that. Since sound comes from critical area, where some of the failures might result in loss of teeth or worse, I would suggest through approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After eliminating simpler problems like skewers and bolts not tight enough (too much), or bearing issues, I would suggest disassembling whole stem/headset/fork assembly and carefully inspecting it in detail with magnifying glass for dentures, cracks, or anything out of ordinary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T08:52:41.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20957" CreationDate="2014-04-01T08:56:33.720" Score="5" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I failed to make a turn and rode into a thorny bush, which cut my hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have often feared similar situations. For example, when descending, I often need to take a difficult line, in order to evade some hanging vegetation in one half of the fire road. I fear that a wound on the wrist at high speed can make me lose control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am looking for some kind of protective gloves. I do not need &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1732/whats-the-purpose-of-cycling-gloves&quot;&gt;any padding on the inside&lt;/a&gt;. Rather, I am looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut resistance. To resist thorns on the trail and cuts from sharp rock, should I find myself on the ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Breathability. Riding for 10 hours in the sun is already exhausting, the gloves should not wick sweat and become wet rags.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does such a product exist? What features and marketing slang to look for when purchasing?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T12:41:18.940" Title="How to choose protective cycling gloves?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20930" CreationDate="2014-04-01T09:07:24.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bicycle blue book does not include a Gudereit, which is a German brand. It seems to miss information about a lot of European brands and models yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes a sticker on the frame indicates the build quality. There is a sticker just below the saddle and on diagonal tube almost entirely at the front if I see it correctly. If one of those says something about the type of steel used, this is a great indicator for the build quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides this, you can only compare it to similar brands with similar parts in your region. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T09:07:24.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20946" CreationDate="2014-04-01T11:41:23.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past I've eliminated sounds such as creaking and popping up front by correctly torquing the stem and handlebar bolts. I guess the bolts were tightened inconsistently and the cause for the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6801" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T11:41:23.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20946" CreationDate="2014-04-01T11:55:27.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the old style headsets this symptom was generally due to the handlebar slipping slightly inside the reenforcing tube that surrounds the center on most bars.  The tube was glued to the bar, and eventually some of the glue would fail, allowing the two to move relative to each other as you rode and the bar flexed.  In very rare cases the bar would actually slip within the tube, but in most cases the sound was harmless and would eventually go away -- appearing after a few months of use and then disappearing after a year or two.  Tightening the bar clamp usually did not help.  Bars without the reenforcing tube, of course, did not exhibit this behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One would also occasionally get creaking of the stem within the steering tube.  Also harmless, and usually quieted by slightly tightening the stem bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never studied a threadless headset real closely, but presumably, given the number of individual components, there are all sorts of things that can slip slightly relative to each other as things flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T11:55:27.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20946" CreationDate="2014-04-01T13:33:38.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; from Sheldon Brown may be of use. I'd start with checking out the headset to make sure its tightened down appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T13:33:38.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-01T15:18:22.530" Score="2" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in pittsburgh, and we have some hills and streets which are belgian block, brick, poorly paved and pocked with potholes. It can be very jarring, but I still find myself flying down these streets running 700x28c tires at 100psi and I'm not a light guy at 200lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this abuse going to damage my loose bearing cup/cone hubs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T17:05:26.857" Title="Will riding cobblestones and rough streets kill my cup and cone hubs?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20959" CreationDate="2014-04-01T16:38:26.743" Score="1" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting a 46x30 chainring with a pretty narrow tread on a frame. On the advice of my LBS I got a Sun XCD double FD, but I'm starting to think it's not right for this application. When I have the derailleur on the big ring and far enough out to avoid rubbing, there's razor-thin clearance between the outer plate and the crank arm. And that's just on the stand -- I'm worried that once I'm on it and things are flexing, the crank is going to hit the cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a narrow-cage derailleur, and maybe one that is designed for smaller chainrings (the Sun is listed at max 56T) will be a better fit. Does anyone have any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4887" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T21:39:37.873" Title="Looking for a narrow-cage 16T capacity FD" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20953" CreationDate="2014-04-01T16:44:13.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many mountain bikes used cup and cone hubs, and all of Shimano's mountain hubs still use cup and cone, so I would say you're fine. Usually the spokes are the first thing to start breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T16:44:13.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20953" CreationDate="2014-04-01T17:05:26.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bearings and races are made of very hard steel. So long as they are properly maintained (lubricated and adjusted to the correct tightness; visit Free Ride in Pittsburgh for help lubing/adjusting your bike if it's feeling worn and you don't want to pay a shop to do it for you), they should hold up with no problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling_element_bearing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling_element_bearing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T17:05:26.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20948" CreationDate="2014-04-01T18:18:04.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at Downhill MTB gloves, they are meant for folks who are likely to crash in the brush and often have padding on fronts of fingers and knuckles and leather palm protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T18:18:04.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16500" CreationDate="2014-04-01T20:14:45.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest taking it in to a small bike shop. Most of the employees that I have seen at bike shops are friendly and willing to help. If you show them what is wrong they might be able to tell you how to fix it. I have done it that way in the past and it has worked for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10752" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T23:50:49.260" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T23:50:49.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20954" CreationDate="2014-04-01T21:05:17.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There will be only very small differences in the widths different FDs (assuming you are talking about the inside to outside dimension). One that is designed to be minimum sized so that it provides a best fit for 46t large chainrings is Shimano's CX-70, intended for cyclo-cross:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/cyclocross/cx70/product.-code-FD-CX70-B.-type-.fd_road.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/cyclocross/cx70/product.-code-FD-CX70-B.-type-.fd_road.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It does have a 16t capacity. It is also compatible with the bar ends (which don't index the front anyway).&#xA;I have purchased one of these to use with a similar chainring setup and 105 dual-STI brifters, but I have not yet installed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10712" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T21:05:17.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-01T22:37:20.283" Score="0" ViewCount="2078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1990s Shiman Deore XT cantilever brake pad holder shoes with smooth studs.  I believe these are &quot;M Type&quot; cartridges/inserts. The replaceable inserts slide in and are held in place by a screw / grub. They look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zgXqq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shiman Deore XT brake pads&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the replaceable inserts. However, I am having a hard time finding replacement inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to slide in &quot;V brake&quot; inserts that are readily available as replacement inserts?  For example, could I use the following inserts in the shoes shown above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ErdZ8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kool Stop V type refill insert&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, are there any other inserts that can work with the Deore XT brake shoes that I have?  As a side note, there is corroboration  that aftermarket replacements for my brake shoes are hard or impossible to find (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=258466&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=287271&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, e.g.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T22:43:05.060" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T08:18:17.763" Title="Can I use pin-held V-Brake inserts in (cantilever) screw-held Shimano M Type brake pad holders?" Tags="&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-01T22:57:53.013" Score="1" ViewCount="966" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between the unbranded-cranks found on the Motobecane- USA- Mirage Sport vs the FSA Vero cranks(sometimes LSC) on the Motobecane-Record or Grand Record? Are they basiclly the same thing quality wise? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10753" LastEditorUserId="10753" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T23:10:25.857" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T06:23:36.080" Title="Unbranded cranks vs FSA Vero cranks?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20969" CreationDate="2014-04-02T06:31:22.377" Score="1" ViewCount="1024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to an auction to look for cheap gems. Each bike is shown only very briefly and the bidding starts immediately. No hands-on inspection is allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I pay attention to when trying to decide how much / if to bid? Are there some immediate signs that I should look for that either hint to the high or low quality of a bicycle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know brands very well and the brands here in Finland might be different from other countries. However, brands I should look for or avoid are welcome, but any other more general external indicators for quality would be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/743/what-should-i-look-for-when-buying-a-used-bicycle&quot;&gt;What should I look for when buying a used bicycle?&lt;/a&gt; but I think the situation is different enough to merit a separate question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10754" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T13:16:56.200" Title="What should I look for when buying a bike from an auction?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20962" CreationDate="2014-04-02T07:47:13.913" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A aluminium frame is lighter then a steel frame. Old bikes and retro bikes often still have steel though. You can recognize an aluminium frame by its thicker tubes and welds. You will most probably not find carbon and titanium frames at such an auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Determine what kind of gears you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of an internal gear hub: Look which models and brands of gears would suite you. For example: for a gearhub you might want to have 7 of 8 gears from Shimano, or perhaps 3 gears of any brand would be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of a derailleur: The most common brand is Shimano. I have listed them for you from bad to good: Altus, Acera, Alivio, Deore, Deore LX, Deore SLX, Deore XT, Deore XTS. For mountainbiking you'll need at least Deore but rather even better. This shifts quicker and lasts longer in case of mountainbiking. For commuting you want Deore and up, or Alivio if you wan't a real bargain. These are sufficient for commuting since less wear occurs and quick shifting is less important then with mountianbiking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Altus and Acera are less reliable and don't shift as comfortable, so avoid them. Also, when a cheap Altus or Acera derailleur is assembled, other parts are often also of less quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other parts such as steer, cranks, saddle post, etc. can be from a well known brand such as Shimano, SRAM, Contec, AVID, Sturmey Archer, and many more. Or, they can be no-names. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is all not very precise, but it can give you a clue about the quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit: I hope I improved my answer a bit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastEditorUserId="9140" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T11:16:06.710" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T11:16:06.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20960" CreationDate="2014-04-02T08:24:34.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether the v-brake replacements fit in. However, normal cantilever brake pads are very easy to find. When you don't find a replacement insert, just order some entire brake pads. You will probably get just as good braking pads for the same price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Perhaps ask these guys: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#dura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#dura&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T08:24:34.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20962" CreationDate="2014-04-02T08:54:37.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what you have said be prepared to end up with a dud. It's not easy for a novice to tell the difference in quality, and impossible to tell the condition of the drive train without close inspection, even for an expert.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously look at the condition. Tires with mold tags still on them are a likely sign of a low mileage bike. But a quality bike with few miles will be a better bet than a low quality bike in new/shiny condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn the local brands, especially avoid the cheap chain store brands. Learn the rear derailleur models for the type of bike you are interested in. If MTB, learn front shock models from Fox and Rock Shocks.  These are the best place to look for a guide to quality. You will most likely see Shimano and SRAM gear. Anything from SRAM is OK, anything from Shimano with a name on it is likely to be OK. No name or model - don't touch it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T08:54:37.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-02T10:18:09.857" Score="1" ViewCount="1333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I was wondering if any bike engines would be compatible for a adults tricycle? &#xA;An example of the bike I am talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0WU9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDAwWDQwMA==/z/tD8AAOxyKsZRw-eT/$T2eC16NHJI!E9qSO8GUrBRw-eTDF2!~~60_12.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TinyURL: &lt;a href=&quot;http://tinyurl.com/otuo2d2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://tinyurl.com/otuo2d2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10755" LastEditorUserId="6757" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T22:10:16.137" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T22:10:16.137" Title="tricycle engine compatibility?" Tags="&lt;tricycle&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;&lt;electric-power&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20962" CreationDate="2014-04-02T13:04:07.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like with any other area of expertise, there is no substitute for years of experience. If you need a simple heuristic though, brand recognition in combination with a general knowledge of groupsets and their quality can go a long way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least, know how to tell forged components from stamped. Learn Shimano's and Suntour's groupset lineups. Groupsets are generally a good indication for the overall quality of the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Know about the different qualities of steel (hi10 &amp;lt; 4130 chromoly &amp;lt; branded {reynolds, columbus}). Learn about the qualities of good steel lugs (some framesets are worth money that won't have any parts on them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back all this up with a smartphone and you should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T13:04:07.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20962" CreationDate="2014-04-02T13:16:56.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since we live in the advent of the smartphone, you can likely look at the brand and model of a bike and quickly google it. Two sites to look at are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Blue Book&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bikepedia&lt;/a&gt;. This probably helps you avoid having to look at the individual component specs since most of the time if a part is replaced, it is replaced with something at least as good as the original equipment (you may not be able to see what components are on the bike to begin with). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general its a pretty hard problem (which you really need experience), and in an auction situation, the best thing to do would be to bring along a friend who knows a lot about bikes to tell you what to bid, and then buy them a beer afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T13:16:56.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20961" CreationDate="2014-04-02T13:39:41.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, there are several factors that go into a crankset:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounting: What kind of bottom bracket do they go on? Square Taper, Octalink, etc. Are they cottered? cotter-less? one piece?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Single/Double/Triple: How many chainrings do they have?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainring Shape: Some chainrings like the Biopace are somewhere between a rounded rectangle and a circle rather than circular. Biopace is supposed to be more comfortable than the usual circular rings, for example. You can also design different tooth shapes to improve shifting performance. Other chainrings seem to have slightly different vertical profiles (SRAM X-glide for example). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainring Type: How are the chainrings mounted? Are they fixed into the crankset? Are they 110 BCD and replacable?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainring Material: Usually Aluminum for the outer two, Steel for the inner for a MTB triple, but other options are possible. This affects durability and weight- just because you're using the same materials doesn't mean the quality is the same. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank length: 170 mm is probably most common. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainring size: A compact road double is usually 50t/34t, for example - different chainring sizes give you different gearings. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Q-factor/Tread: Width of the crankset. This will affect comfort and is usually narrow to match how we walk. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank Profile: The angle of the crank arms leaving the bottom bracket. If you ride with your toes outward, this prevents interference and affects Q-factor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank arm material: Affects durability, strength, weight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power Meter: Some high end cranksets have a power meter built into them for measuring riding power which can be sent to your cycling computer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Speeds&quot;: Often these days, cranksets are marketed with a different number of speeds in the back in mind. Mostly marketing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal type: Pedals come in 1/2&quot; or 9/16&quot;. You need to have the right sized holes for the pedals to screw into, for a given set of pedals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between manufacturers of compatible cranksets (i.e. they can be mounted to the same bike and have essentially the same geometry (Q-factor, crank length, number of chainrings and chainring sizes), there are likely to be different durabilities of chainrings, weights of the crankset assembly and aesthetics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular case, I'd guess the non-name brand one is probably a bit heavier and has softer material for the chainrings so they don't necessarily last as long. The geometry may also be slightly different. Its hard to tell with Motobecane when the parts aren't exactly specified since something just shows up on the bike depending on whats in the factory that day which meets the specs stated online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T13:39:41.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20967" CreationDate="2014-04-02T13:43:14.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FsqFjjyEPY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This bike&lt;/a&gt; looks similar and utilizes an engine in the front hub.  You won't get as much range as you would on a bicycle, but there's lots of room for extra batteries on a tricycle.  The bike in the link states it gets 30 miles on a charge, and can reach speeds of 25 mph, which is pretty impressive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T13:43:14.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20932" CreationDate="2014-04-02T14:17:14.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem that was ultimately down to excessively worn bearings in the front wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd tightened them previously but they were beyond their usable life and so there was movement side to side in the wheel hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the wheel was replaced the problem was eradicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the wheels for any side to side movement and tighten accordingly, if like me this is no longer possible then look at getting a replacement wheel or rebuilding your existing one with a new hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10756" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T14:17:14.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20948" CreationDate="2014-04-02T15:57:35.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently in my country the only DH gloves that the shops are selling are made of skinny fabric with no padding, so I've turned my head towards motorcycling gear. I have had a two types of gloves by a motorcycling accessory maker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They tend to be sturdier, but also a bit heavier. I don't complain about weight, just acknowledge it. They are so rugged that  they last &quot;forever&quot;, so I end up re-purposing them as work gloves when they get aesthetically unbearable for public display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often these gloves have reinforcement and protection for the fingers in the form of rubber or foam-like inserts on top of the finger and knuckles. The fabric normally is very resistant and in my case has proven to be resistant to cuts from sharp rocks and in some circumstances even thorn proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the gloves I've chosen are intended for Motocross or Enduro, but there are some &quot;lighter&quot; options in some stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downsides I have found is that with thicker fabric, the glove takes forever to dry (if you get them soaked in a pond of heavy rain). The padding absorbs water so they also get heavier in case of soaking. Also, after washing the glove tends to get stiff, but you solve it by using a small amount of fabric softener or &quot;massaging&quot; the glove before using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T15:57:35.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20979" CreationDate="2014-04-02T16:51:45.707" Score="16" ViewCount="1508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spoke with someone and they said they were staying off certain trails because snow melt and mud would ruin the trails.  I had never thought of this and really want to be considerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a valid concern?  Should I avoid a trail because of this?  How do I know when it is ok to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T18:51:27.180" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T18:51:27.180" Title="Should I not use a trail because of poor conditions?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20976" CreationDate="2014-04-02T17:00:21.137" Score="4" ViewCount="31723" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend has had the wheels stolen from her bike. I'd like to replace them, but we're working with a limited budget so I'm going to do the work myself and source the parts second hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a basic bike maintenance course but beyond that I'm relatively clueless. I know that the new wheels need to be 700C's, and that the new rear gear cassette needs to be 7-speed (I guess because that's what the gear shifters are) but I have the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will any 700C wheel work with any gear cassette? From browsing eBay it seems that some of the wheels are specified as working with 7-speed or 8-speed cassettes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first question aside, will any cassette screw on to the mounting on the wheel I buy, or are there different threads?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I buy a free wheel or a cassette? I'm not even sure what the difference is!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10759" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T10:20:13.867" Title="What do I need to know about fitting new wheels on a bike?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20975" CreationDate="2014-04-02T17:17:30.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will any 700C wheel work with any gear cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it depends on what size free hub is on the wheel.  I believe there is also variations in &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hub spacing&lt;/a&gt; too.  It could be between 126mm and 135mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From browsing eBay it seems that some of the wheels are specified as&#xA;  working with 7-speed or 8-speed cassettes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is because the free hub installed will allow those size cassettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;will any cassette screw on to the mounting on the wheel I buy, or are&#xA;  there different threads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cassettes don't screw on unless you are using a free wheel, they have splines and a lock ring.  Yes, there are some differences.  Most likely it is Shimano Hyperglide, the wheel manufacturer will probably state this.  Sometimes, they don't though, which makes it fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I buy a free wheel or a cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to buy a 7 speed cassette, because your shifter only supports that.  See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8909/can-you-use-a-8-speed-shimano-shifter-with-a-7-speed-cassette&quot;&gt;related question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T17:17:30.047" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-02T17:17:55.610" Score="7" ViewCount="1693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I (think) I know the answer to this, but I wanted to get others' takes on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding a loop with no wind, vs. riding the same loop with wind (such that half the loop, you get a headwind vs. tailwind for other half). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this equal out, or does the wind version use more energy/power to maintain the same overall time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually don't mean keeping the same speed over the whole loop, but the same &lt;em&gt;time&lt;/em&gt; around the whole thing. Thus I'd expect speed to drop while heading into the wind, and increase the other way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5439" LastEditorUserId="3639" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T16:47:18.857" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T16:47:18.857" Title="Headwind when riding in a loop" Tags="&lt;wind&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20975" CreationDate="2014-04-02T17:20:16.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of factors to consider when buying a new wheel set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheel size, there are many different wheel sizes to choose from, modern road bikes are generally 700c and mountain bikes 26, 27.5 or 29inch. There's also a number of legacy, children's and specialty sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rim width, rim width determines how wide a tire you can run and is determined by seat stay and chain stay clearance. If you have a road bike you may be able to fit wider cross tires if you were so inclined.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Axle width, the width of the rear drop outs, generally 135mm on road bikes but older bikes may be less, 135 or 142 for mountain bikes. Front widths on mountain bikes are either 100 or 110.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cassette size, you need a hub (unless using a free wheel) that is spaced for the cassette you'll be using. There are 7, 8/9/10 and 11 speed free hubs. A 7 speed cassette will fit an 8 speed hub with a spacer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cassette type, shimano and sram require a compatible hub, campy requires a different compatible hub.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brake type, rim brakes need a specific rim, disc brakes and coaster brakes require a specific hub.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Axle diameter, on Mountain bikes there's 9mm QR and 15mm and 20mm thru axle on the front and 10mm QR, 10mm bolt up or 12mm thru axle on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything thing else such as material, number of spokes or valve type is user preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T17:30:27.807" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T17:30:27.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20974" CreationDate="2014-04-02T17:50:09.363" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's common etiquette, at least everywhere I've been, to stay away from wet and muddy trails (unless they're supposed to be or always are a mudfest). Riding on a muddy trail makes ruts which make the trail conditions worse for everyone once the mud dries and the ground hardens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to ruts, if the trail is muddy and you slide out a front wheel going around a turn, for example, your wheel can scrape several inches of trail off. This can cause erosion problems later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as alluded to earlier, if the trail is a known mudbog and stays muddy year-round, one more rut probably won't hurt anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common counterexample is when the trail is melting in the afternoons but can be ridden early in the day when the ground is frozen. If you're crazy enough to be out riding then, more power to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But generally speaking, it is in good taste to stay off melting, muddy trails. Any time your presence can alter the trail physically (ruts, slide-offs, feature damage), everyone else who shares the trail with you will be glad you stayed off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T17:50:09.363" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20948" CreationDate="2014-04-02T18:31:53.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use mechanics gloves purchased at the hardware store. Mine are unpadded leather (goatskin) and have saved my hands from several crashes that otherwise would have caused nasty abrasions, judging by the damage to the gloves. &quot;Mechanix&quot; and &quot;Grease Monkey&quot; brand gloves are usually what I see on the hands of local mountain bikers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10760" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T18:31:53.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20974" CreationDate="2014-04-02T18:36:09.957" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Alesplin puts it, it is common practice to stay off of trails that are muddy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to expand on his answer a little. I think there are a few factors that come into play with a question like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest contributors of damage to a muddy trail is large amounts of traffic. The more people that use the trail, the more damage will be done. If you are one of a few people to use a trail, you most likely won't do any permanent damage. The worst thing you will do is create ruts, that when dry are not the nicest things to ride on/in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ruts can also lead to other forms of damage. A rut will collect water, which will not run off the trail. Quite often, these puddles of water will get bigger and bigger until they consume the width of the trail. This, I think, is when the real damage occurs. Trail users (both rides and hikers) will most often avoid going through the standing water and simply go around (at the cost of the surrounding vegetation). This can lead to parts of the trail being expanded unnecessarily, and there will still be the problem of the expanding rutted water hole in the middle of the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, if the trail is used very lightly, riding in the mud will not do much damage at all. For most trails though, it is best to avoid the muddy ones. Of course, there are always sections of trail that are muddy, no matter what. Those are a whole other matter of how to properly build and route a trail. Get dirty and have fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8655" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T18:36:09.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20977" CreationDate="2014-04-02T18:55:41.967" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the effect of wind resistance was linear with respect to speed, then yes, the forces would balance out. That is to say: if pedaling into a 20 mph wind was only twice as hard as pedaling into a 10 mph wind, the forces would balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is not the case, as @Daniel mentions. The effort to overcome the 20mph wind is &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; than twice that needed for the 10mph wind. If we simplify your loop into an out-and-back (half directly into the wind, half with it at your back), say the wind is a constant 10 mph, and that you cycle to maintain 20mph, you can get an intuitive idea of how this works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those assumptions, for half your trip you would be fighting a 30mph headwind (10 wind + 20 from your own speed). The second half the &quot;headwind&quot; would be only 10mph (20 from your own speed - 10 from the wind). This is compared to a day with no wind, in which the whole trip would have a headwind of 20mph. The jump from 20mph to 30 requires &lt;em&gt;much more&lt;/em&gt; energy (what is the last time you hit 30mph?) than the energy saved from dropping from 20 to 10mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drag varies as the square of velocity. This means that velocity is the dominant factor in the equation (as opposed to drag coefficient).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_%28physics%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For high velocities (or more precisely, at high Reynolds number) drag will vary as the square of velocity. Thus, the resultant power needed to overcome this drag will vary as the cube of velocity. The standard equation for drag is one half the coefficient of drag multiplied by the fluid mass density, the cross sectional area of the specified item, and the square of the velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an excellent treatment of the forces affecting a cyclist, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rinard/aero/formulas.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rainer Pivit's article&lt;/a&gt;. The graphs are especially helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastEditorUserId="7724" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T13:56:30.040" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T13:56:30.040" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20977" CreationDate="2014-04-02T19:03:43.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The energy usage could only even out if the aerodynamics of your riding position from the front of the bike equaled the aerodynamics of your riding position from the rear of the bike. Think about your riding position on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going into the wind you are low on the bike, but the handle bars hit the wind first. The wind next hits &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; and your form cups the wind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind resistance goes up with the square of speed of the wind. If the wind is against you at 10 mph (ground speed) and you are traveling (ground speed) at 10 mph, The wind is effectively moving at 20 mph relative to you. That comes out to 4 times the wind resistance compared to you just pedaling at 10 mph with no wind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going with the wind, even if you are sitting up, your back is slanted in the direction the wind is traveling and your shoulders are rounded, giving you a much better aerodynamic profile and when the wind comes from the opposite direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result is you don't break even, but it certainly is fun going with the wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T19:03:43.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20974" CreationDate="2014-04-02T20:44:54.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue is not just muddiness and ruts.  Activities like biking and hiking promote soil erosion (and soil is much more susceptible where erosion already has taken place).  We try to strike a balance between preserving the condition of the trail and enjoying our activities.  If the ground is very wet, the damage caused by our use is much greater, since we move more material around including whatever plants are helping to reinforce the soil (roots act like the rebar in concrete).  The damage caused in one trailride could be greater than several years of use in decent conditions.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even under normal use, trails need to be reconstructed and/or moved from time to time to allow the land to &quot;heal&quot;.  I'm grateful for the volunteers that work to maintain the trails where I ride (Thank you, Waterloo Cycling Club!)&#xA;In short, thank you for your desire to be courteous and thoughtful, and please save your riding until the trail has dried up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10765" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T20:44:54.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20954" CreationDate="2014-04-02T21:39:37.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you compare new and old derailleurs, you'll see that the new ones have cages made from thinner metal, but stamped to make them torsionally rigid. Older ones &#xA;like this Campagnolo FD &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TGkIS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vintage Campy FD&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;have a nice flat low profile cage that works well with cranks that resemble the older Campy with low Q-factor and relatively straight crank arms. Of course vintage Campagnolo is insanely priced, but you may be able to find similar Dura Ace or Sun Tour FD's that would work just as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, another trick that can help is grinding the cage slightly to better match the curvature of the chainring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T21:39:37.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20967" CreationDate="2014-04-02T21:47:08.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most front wheel motors will work on the trike and will install in a very similar way. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/bhp/electric-bike-hub-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a lot of kits on ebay&lt;/a&gt;, ranging in price from a couple of hundred dollars up through sensible prices to quite silly. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20681/making-bicycle-semi-motor-powered&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for some opinions on the cheap kits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C30o9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bicycle hub motor kit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most crank motors will also work and be easy enough to install. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/au/commuting/gear/category/bikes/electric/product/review-sunstar-s03-kit-12-2-5ah-kit-46004/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Sunstar kit&lt;/a&gt;, for example. The advantage is that it uses the gearing system on the trike, so it works better than a hub motor when the trike is going very slowly. The disadvantage is that it's a pedal-assist motors, so it only works if you're pedalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yx20e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sunstar crank assist kit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is that you find a local bike shop that has experience with electric bikes, ideally one that sells kits, and get them to supply and fit a kit for you. While it's possible to do the work yourself, unless you have the rights tools and experience it's very easy to make mistakes and end up with something that's unsafe, doesn't work, or is unreliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy ready-made &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclestore.com.au/powerped-e-trike.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;electric trikes like this one&lt;/a&gt;. It might easily turn out to be cheaper to do that than buy a trike plus a kit if you don't already own the trike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T22:01:29.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20977" CreationDate="2014-04-02T23:55:27.030" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It doesn't equal out.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An illustrative hypothetical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a top speed of 30mph.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wind is blowing at &gt;= 30mph.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of how fast you bike the tailwind half of the loop, it takes ∞ time to bike the headwind half, which is probably more time than in the no-wind case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3393" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T23:55:27.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20977" CreationDate="2014-04-03T00:47:28.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Superdesk has the right answer, but I thought I'd add some math to give an impression of the &lt;em&gt;size&lt;/em&gt; of the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have stated, drag is a quadratic function of relative wind speed. This is why you need a lot more effort to go from 0 to 10 km/h than from 20 to 30 km/h on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose that you like to bike at 20km/h. If you go for a ride on a day with no wind, you have a relative wind speed of 20km/h the whole way (you move 20 km/h faster than the air around you). Suppose that you lose 1000 Cal. to drag on this ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now suppose you go riding on a day with a 10 km/h wind, and ride a loop that's half as long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first half of the loop, with a tail wind, your relative wind speed is 20-10 km/h = 10 km/h. But because drag is &lt;em&gt;quadratic&lt;/em&gt;, this means you actually lose just one fourth the energy you would at a 20km/h wind speed. So you lose 125 Cal to drag on the first half of the ride (1000/2 = 500 for only riding half way, 500/4 because of the reduced drag).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the second half of the loop, with a head wind, your relative wind speed is 20+10 = 30 km/h. Again, because drag is quadratic, this means you don't expend 50% more energy, you expend 125% more energy. So you lose 1125 Cal. to drag on the second half of the ride (1000/2 = 500 for only riding half way, 500 *9/4 = 1125 for the quadratic drag)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in total on the windy day, you expend 1250 Cal, or &lt;strong&gt;25% more&lt;/strong&gt; riding the same distance, at the same ground speed, just &lt;strong&gt;for a light breeze&lt;/strong&gt;! Also interesting to note that you'll lose 90% of the energy on the way back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This actually gets worse very fast as the wind speed climbs. Where I live we often have &lt;strong&gt;40km/h sustained winds&lt;/strong&gt;, which means &lt;strong&gt;450% more&lt;/strong&gt; energy loss for the same ground speeds. This is when it takes all your energy to ride &lt;em&gt;downhill&lt;/em&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="2513" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T01:32:51.943" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T01:32:51.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20974" CreationDate="2014-04-03T08:04:49.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMBA wrote a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.imba.com/resources/research/trail-science/environmental-impacts-mountain-biking-science-review-and-best-practices&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;great article&lt;/a&gt; summarizing the various studies of mountain biking's impact on trails. Their conclusion was as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Furthermore, while the impact mechanics and forces may be different&#xA;  from foot traffic, mountain biking impacts are little different from&#xA;  hiking, the most common and traditional form of trail-based&#xA;  recreational activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So what does this mean for mountain biking? The existing body of&#xA;  research does not support the prohibition or restriction of mountain&#xA;  biking from a resource or environmental protection perspective.&#xA;  Existing impacts, which may be in evidence on many trails used by&#xA;  mountain bikers, are likely associated for the most part with poor&#xA;  trail designs or insufficient maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Managers should look first to correcting design-related deficiencies&#xA;  before considering restrictions on low-impact users. By enlisting the&#xA;  aid of all trail users through permanent volunteer trail maintenance&#xA;  efforts, they can improve trail conditions and allow for sustainable&#xA;  recreation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, current studies show that mountain bikers do no more harm than hikers and that muddy trails are a product of bad trail building and management, and not from mountain bikers riding them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem here is more with perception I believe, as some small groups of extremely reactionary hikers usually wants to ban everything that is not hikers from venturing into the great outdoors. If they can keep mountain bikers off the trails by saying that they damage them, they suddenly have a great argument for doing so. And if we as mountain bikers accept this as a fact and the way that it should be, then we are suddenly at the mercy of the hikers, and this would be very unfortunate for mountain biking as a recreational activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead of staying of the trail you should help doing maintenance on them so that problems such as mud and erosion are lessened and the trails become more pleasant for everyone who uses them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T08:04:49.607" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-03T09:29:14.250" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at signing our work up to a Cycle to Work scheme in the UK. There are a lot of online reviews of the benefits of the scheme, but not much feedback on which are the best providers to go for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone like to share their experiences with particular providers? Has their customer service been up to scratch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10770" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T13:34:42.920" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T13:34:42.920" Title="Best cycle to work provider?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;uk&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-04-04T12:26:25.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20992" CreationDate="2014-04-03T10:35:03.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run my own company, and therefore had ready access to this scheme since I was both the employer and the employee, but I actually decided against it altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, this was a couple of years ago, so you'll need to check whether what I say still applies, but this is what I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a twelve-month agreement where essentially the company buys the bike, and you then pay £x per month to lease the bike off them. The &quot;x&quot; covers the cost of the bike, but there is a tax saving to be had. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think you need to look at what happens at the end of the twelve month period. My understanding is that the company, not the individual, actually owns the bike. So in order for &quot;you&quot; to end up owning the bike, you'd need to buy it from your company (i.e. more expense). And when I looked at it, HMRC (the UK Tax authority) were making noises about the company having to sell the bike at a &quot;fair market price&quot;. In other words, its not reasonable to take a £1000 bike, then to say that after a year it is only worth £10, or some ridiculously small amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as I say, this was a couple of years ago. At the time I decided that the scheme was a bit half-baked, and to steer clear of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think what I'd be looking for now is to see some clarity on what happens at the end of the twelve months, how much you would need to pay to actually make the bike yours. Whether there were now concrete guidelines in place, or whether it was all as woolly as it was when I looked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if looking at the different providers, that would be my defining criterion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I know this probably doesn't directly answer your question, but hopefully it'll give you some idea of one line of questions to ask the different providers in order to allow you to make your own decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T10:42:17.223" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T10:42:17.223" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-03T16:02:49.313" Score="3" ViewCount="4843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a college students, and I live right next to an amazing rocky area (picture below), I bike every day, and while I am getting much better and more confident I still take a pretty hard fall every so often.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My derailleur has been crushed so many times, and I have been forced to literally pull on it to bend it back into shape on more than one occasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to replace the derailleur soon, but I would like to know if there is a good way to protect the derailleur during a fall - this will decide how much I spend on a new one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the stuff that is crushing my derailleur every time I fall.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7IK1z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastActivityDate="2017-09-24T09:43:35.773" Title="How to protect rear derailleur while mountain biking?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20995" CreationDate="2014-04-03T17:19:07.710" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;They make bash guards for derailleurs which mount to the frame which protect a derailleur in a crash like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVKnM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bash guard&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but these are dangerous in that they transmit a hit to the derailleur to the frame (and frame damage is typically less repairable/ more expensive than a derailleur damage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, what gets damaged in a crash is the derailleur hanger, which can be bent back into shape with a special tool at your bike shop (Park Tool DAG-2 for example). You should never pull the derailleur into shape by the cage (this is the weakest part of the derailleur and can damage it more). On non-steel bikes, this is often a little replaceable part which is designed to deform in a crash so hopefully your derailleur makes it out alright as does your frame (so if you can't bend it back into shape, you can replace it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically the Shimano Deore level is what gives you the best hit taking ability for the price, though it depends on how you fall and how the derailleur gets hit and stuff. The best thing to do is &quot;don't fall&quot;. But obviously, compatibility within brands and budget dictate what to buy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to how the derailleur is &quot;bent&quot;, and how you're straightening it though. It would be good if you updated your question with a diagram or picture of your &quot;bent derailleur&quot;, along with the type of bike you're riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T17:19:07.710" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21023" CreationDate="2014-04-03T17:24:20.273" Score="4" ViewCount="4424" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the facts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My bike frame requires a 70 mm Italian threaded bottom bracket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm going to use a Nuvinci N360 IGH which requires a chainline of 49 (± 0.5) mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.andel.com.tw/products/products_show.php?language=_eng&amp;amp;pid=36&amp;amp;cid=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Andel fluted cranks&lt;/a&gt;, which according to at least couple of sellers should require a 110 mm bottom bracket with a JIS taper. And at least &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brothercycles.com/blog/2010/06/andel-classic-track-cranks-now-available/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this seller&lt;/a&gt; says that 110 mm will produce a chainline of approximately 42 mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a 3/32&quot; chainring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided that I would buy a Shimano UN55 bottom bracket, as it was quite widely praised as a good basic bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the assumptions I made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano bottom brackets are symmetrical&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need +7 mm on the drive-side, so I need 14 mm longer bottom bracket spindle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up buying a UN55 70x122 bottom bracket. However after crank installation I noticed that the combination gave me a chainline on 53.5 mm (chainring normally installed) or 46.5 mm (chainring installed on the &quot;inside&quot; of the crankarm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So where did my calculations go wrong?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've considered the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if the expected chainline was 43.5 mm instead of 42 mm? But that would have still caused a smaller error than what I am seeing now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if the 122 mm spindle length is something special reserved only for triple cranks? However, I've found no info that it should affect the situation this way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if Italian threaded Shimano bottom brackets use ISO taper instead of JIS taper? I've found no info to back that one up, and in that case, according to Sheldon Brown, the effect should be the opposite than what I am seeing now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if the cranks are really using ISO taper instead of JIS? That would explain the difference I'm seeing now. But on the other hand, quite many sites confirm that the cranks should be used with a JIS tapered bottom bracket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if on non-triple cranks the chainline is always measured &quot;from the middle&quot;, like on double-cranks. This one I'm actually not so sure about; but I though that on this kind of single-speed cranks it would be measured from the chainring instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I could (and actually may) go with the easy route and just order a new BB with a shorter spindle and hope it fits. However, as I try to learn bicycle mechanics, I'd really like to understand the math around this issue. As an added bonus I'd be very glad if someone could also explain the optimal UN55 spindle length that I should try to find next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10777" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T14:54:06.703" Title="What went wrong with my bottom bracket spindle length calculation?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20995" CreationDate="2014-04-03T19:03:15.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The derailleur is, unfortunately, one of those critical parts that is very hard to protect from damage; without sacrificing another part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Batman pointed out, you can purchase small hoops that attach to your frame and offer &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; protection. As he pointed out though, these types of products might protect the derailleur to some degree, but you risk transferring those damaging forces to the frame in a crash. Besides that, a derailleur is constantly moving and is very exposed to anything that might knock, touch or grab it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There really isn't a whole lot you can do. It is easier said than done, but try not to fall as much. Pick your lines carefully through rocks and keep an eye out for anything that will snag it. If you lay your bike down on the ground, always make sure to lay it with the brakes facing the ground, in order to not put the weight of the bike on the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I must ask, is if your derailleur has been damaged multiple times; during any of those incidents, did your derailleur hanger suffer damage? If the hanger has not ever been bent or snapped, maybe it is too stiff/strong and not taking any of damaging forces. I have always had bad luck with very soft hangers that snap prematurely. Try to find a lower quality one and use that. Maybe next time the hanger will bend instead of your derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that should be mentioned that every time you bend the derailleur back into its correct position, it gets a little weaker. It will bend under pressure that much easier each further time it is put under stress. Parts get fatigued and sometimes must be replaced, even if they still appear to be semi-functioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it just comes down to luck at the time of an incident. Sometimes you take a spill and come out of it with zero broken parts. Other times, you can be looking at major damage to something (even from the most innocent of crashes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8655" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T19:03:15.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21000" CreationDate="2014-04-03T19:24:44.047" Score="3" ViewCount="5228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attempting to build a single speed bike for commuting from various spare parts.  I'm unsure of what kind of crankset would be compatible with my frame.  I have read from a couple sources that I can use a typical road double crankset with one chain ring removed, but I'm still a bit unclear on how to precisely determine compatibility with my frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, in the most basic terms, what factors need to be considered when choosing a crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame in question is a single speed cyclocross, a Bianchi San Jose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1840" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T19:12:27.950" Title="Single speed crank compatibility" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20999" CreationDate="2014-04-03T19:37:34.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to consider is your frame, not your crankset. You can make almost any crankset work for a singlespeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your frame needs to have horizontal dropouts so that you can tension the chain. Or you can use a chain tensioner, which is essentially the spring part of a rear derailleur. Looks like the San Jose has horizontal drops, so you're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the crank, all you really need to worry about is maintaining chainline, which means that your rear and front cogs are lined up. You can affect this on the front by moving your one chainring into the large/small position on the crank, or using washers to move your chainring slightly over. EDIT: Now the overall position of the crank will be affected by the length of the bottom bracket spindle, as this will also affect the chainline. In practice, I wouldn't worry about this too much, again, because you can slightly adjust the position of the chainring after the fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rear, you can shift your hub axle slightly if you really need to, but you should focus on getting the front right before you resort to this. Note that this only applies to freewheel style hubs. If you are going to run cassette hubs for a single speed, then you can sometimes run spacers to get the rear cog exactly where you want it. There are some less other common configurations that I won't deal with here as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to keep in mind is that chains are meant to bend somewhat, as seen in normal use on a geared bike, and so a small offset angle is not going to hurt you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastEditorUserId="8918" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T21:26:09.493" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T21:26:09.493" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21001" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21020" CreationDate="2014-04-03T20:03:51.883" Score="8" ViewCount="2533" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question title pretty much sums it up, but has a bike with an alternate drivetrain style like this been made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would mean a derailleur mounted essentially upside down with the tension pushing the chain upward. I could see where this would protect the derailleur and keep the chain out of the way from dust and debris more. However, I could also envision some issues with front shifting due the the chain coming up from the front chain ring as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T00:13:53.107" Title="Has a bike been made with a rear derailleur above the chainstays?" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21001" CreationDate="2014-04-03T20:34:12.343" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would never work due to fact that no force would be transmitted to the rear wheel until the derailleur cage was at maximum extension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The derailleur has to be below the chainstay to allow it to take up the slack in the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could split the derailleur into to parts, one to keep the chain tension and the other to change gears, but that seems excessively complex. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real solution to the derailleur problem is an internally geared hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T20:34:12.343" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25192" CreationDate="2014-04-03T21:47:13.757" Score="8" ViewCount="4217" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hupi.org/HPeJ/0017/GarnetDirectDriveRecumbents.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This document&lt;/a&gt; well describes the benefits of a direct-drive recumbent. Is there any carbon-frame recumbent, commercially available, that implements all its recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what are the pros and cons of having &lt;a href=&quot;https://plus.google.com/photos/105494140459386547812/albums/5834519374023595473?banner=pwa&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;no handlebars&lt;/a&gt; like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPSuNuKXhKw&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/By7Df.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/By7Df.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;from https://plus.google.com/photos/105494140459386547812/albums/5834519374023595473?banner=pwa&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8135" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-06-29T08:33:48.397" LastActivityDate="2017-12-02T09:56:39.093" Title="Does anyone sell a direct-drive recumbent with no handlebars?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20995" CreationDate="2014-04-03T22:07:50.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go Singlespeed or use an Internally geared hub to avoid the problem entirely. May need an eccentric bottom bracket or a bike with horizontal dropouts to pull this off without adding dangly bits like a chain tensioner.  However, chain tensioner a tend to sit a bit further out of the way and are less likely to be damaged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T22:07:50.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21003" CreationDate="2014-04-03T22:50:25.357" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the best of my knowledge there are no suitable &lt;strong&gt;direct-drive hubs&lt;/strong&gt; available commercially, which means that there are no bikes sold that use them. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unicycle.uk.com/kris-holm-schlumpf-geared-unicycle-hub.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schlumpf make a unicycle&lt;/a&gt; direct drive hub that offers 1:1 and 1:1.55 gears, but for a recumbent bike those ratios would be ridiculously low. Also, it's obviously fixed gear so without a freewheel it would be even less useful on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to convert a standard hub gear to direct drive, using a larger axle and feeding the drive through the centre. Hubs are designed to have drive from one side, and pedalling torque is quote large so this would probably involve a major redesign of the hub (I suspect this is why so few people have built them). Another problem is that hub gears are designed to have 2:1 or more gearing up from the chain drive before the hub. So once you got it working, you'd have lower gears than you expect. Using short cranks is a partial solution to that at best, but it's the only thing I can think of that might help. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greenspeed.com.au/newsletter5.htm#4.%20Short%20Cranks&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Greenspeed suggest that 100mm cranks&lt;/a&gt; are quite usable with only a slight loss of power (but higher rpm = lower gearing needed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second question, about having &lt;strong&gt;no handlebars&lt;/strong&gt;, is much easier to do. Most front wheel drive, moving bottom bracket bikes can be ridden hands-off, and it's relatively easy to learn to ride without the handlebars at all. The problem is that most countries require bikes to have handlebars (it's an offence to ride without holding them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem I see with the design you link to is that it's partially rear wheel steered. That will affect stability (making the design somewhat harder, but if you're buying one they've already solved that problem). But it will also affect turning. To turn away from something, the rear wheel must move towards it. All rear wheel steer vehicles suffer from this problem. One partial solution is to use a tadpole tricycle configuration, so that the rear wheel is between the front wheels and thus can move sideways as far as one front wheel when turning away from a kerb or other barrier. For a bicycle, the solution is to stop and lift the bike away from the barrier. The problem is that if you run up next to a barrier at speed it may be difficult to stop without hitting the barrier. That's annoying if it's a kerb and you end up sliding along the footpath, but can be dangerous if it's a wall or hedge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With unusual bikes that someone is selling, I find it's helpful to ask how much someone other than the inventor has ridden one. If they've sold a few and someone has ridden a couple of thousand kilometres on one, then great, it's probably usable. But if it's a great project by one person and you're going to be the first real customer... be very careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10584" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T01:39:02.860" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T01:39:02.860" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4384" CreationDate="2014-04-04T10:56:39.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From an engineers point of view, if any of the balls were deformed or fractured, I would suggest that the cups and cones would be shot also. If they have just one visible line, crater or flat on the bearing contact surface, then new balls will not last very long in any case. When in doubt, use white lithium grease preferred or Castrol boat trailer grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10784" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T12:22:01.660" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T12:22:01.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20999" CreationDate="2014-04-04T19:12:27.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottom bracket compatibility is usually determined by the crank— the manufacturer will specify a length. You can run into clearing issues using an MTB crank with a road bike or vice-versa, but that's not an issue for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're using a road double crank converted to a single, you won't really be in the normal usage spec of the crank, and exact BB length will likely be best determined by trial-and-error. You probably will want to use a shorter BB than what's specified for double use, since the specified BB length is generally designed to put the midpoint between the chainrings at the middle of a cassette. Best to buy your BBs from REI or another company allowing easy returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T19:12:27.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20946" CreationDate="2014-04-04T19:43:59.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull out the stem and remove the bar. Clean the contact surfaces. Grease them with cycle grease and put everything back in place. Don't forget to put grease on the threads of the bolts. Tighten with the required torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T19:43:59.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21035" CreationDate="2014-04-05T13:04:44.293" Score="8" ViewCount="1301" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your feet should hardly touch the ground when the saddle is at optimal height, what is the best approach to stopping at a stoplight and then quickly re-starting when riding in traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10794" LastEditorUserId="10794" LastEditDate="2014-04-05T18:05:11.560" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T00:27:01.063" Title="What is the best way to stop and restart at a stoplight?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21010" CreationDate="2014-04-05T14:33:08.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you can't get around losing some/most of your momentum at a red light but if you do it clever, you can play with the timing of the lights and decrease your speed in such a way, that you won't have to stop completely.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you're very familiar with who gets green after whom, you can plan even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good practice is also to not put the feet down but balance or trackstand. That way, you can keep your feet ready on the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can position yourself a bit behind the stop line (if possible) and take off on mid-orange, so you're already going when you pass the line at green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The accelerating is common technique and power workout.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Keep your strong (first pushing) foot at 3 o'clock, don't lose time with a lazy second foot. Start in an appropriate gear (depending on road gradient and bike specs) and work on the perfect shifting time. Doing the shifts quickly will save you some more time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then: full thrust!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T14:33:08.713" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21010" CreationDate="2014-04-05T16:25:40.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't time it so you don't actually get caught at the light, you pretty much just have to dismount. As Daniel R Hicks mentioned, you can use a curb if one's available, but that's not always the case. And on a personal note, my strong leg is my right leg and since I live in America, the curbs are on the right, which makes that method less appealing to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you set your pedals properly, dismounting can actually help you accelerate more quickly when you get going. Set the pedal for your stronger leg a bit less than 45 degrees from vertical. This allows you to get a full stroke right off the bat. When the light turns green, all you have to do is stand up, which puts your full weight on the pedal, and you're off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding a geared bike, it's also a good idea to shift into the appropriate gear before you actually come to a stop. It takes a bit of practice and familiarity with your bike to know what gear that is, but it comes pretty naturally over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T16:25:40.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21010" CreationDate="2014-04-05T21:20:45.270" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the options I use depending on the circumstances:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trackstand: Requires a lot of practice and it is a bit of a swhowoff. (This is the one I use the less)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partially Dismount: Preferred when riding cleated pedals. Dominant foot stays on the pedal, and the pedal is kept ready for a full stroke (at 45 degrees over the horizontal as the other answer says). The other foot goes to the pavement. Preferred on busy crossings or when I have to use a lane not next to the curb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right foot on the curb: My Right foot is the dominant one, but when I get to stop besides a curb, the fact that I remain in the saddle almost makes up for having to take the first stroke with the left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your hands: When there is a light pole or a suitable road sign, I keep mounted (and cleated) and use my hand to keep balance. Sometimes I can even put the shoulder against a pole or wall or the end of the handlebar. This one lets me re start fully engaged to pedals. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T00:27:01.063" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T00:27:01.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5546" CreationDate="2014-04-06T01:13:33.147" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my own personal experience on a paved road, I found that I am generally a lot faster on my road bike when the tires are inflated to maximum pressure. I found that a lower inflated rear tire slows be down by as much as 11 minutes on a 15 mile ride. But I must add, that I was riding with a tailwind on my way back with the inflated tire. Nonetheless this 11 minute difference is accurate for the most part as I did the slower trial 15 mile run with the lower pressure tire fighting a headwind. So I guess the wind factor sort of cancel each other off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10801" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T01:13:33.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21019" CreationDate="2014-04-06T01:42:22.663" Score="0" ViewCount="960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2004 Trek 4300 that I need to replace the crankset on. I was able to look up the bottom bracket size &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fisher-Klein-Lemond/2004specmanualTrek.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and see that it's a 73x122.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002FB2YA6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this crankset&lt;/a&gt; but I'm not exactly sure how to know if it will fit or not? The specs say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Square taper crank accepts 68x122.5 mm spindle&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean it &lt;em&gt;will not&lt;/em&gt; fit mine which has a shell size of 73?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4610" LastEditorUserId="4610" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T12:54:39.110" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T12:54:39.110" Title="Will this crankset fit my bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21018" CreationDate="2014-04-06T04:02:13.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need references: If you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Alivio-Acera/SI_0094A/SI-0094A-001-ENG_v1_m56577569830667768.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Tech Doc&lt;/a&gt;, it suggests the Shimano BB-UN26 (which you can find that you can fit it in that version). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T04:02:13.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21001" CreationDate="2014-04-06T06:49:36.183" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;derailleur&lt;/strong&gt; needs to guide the chain &lt;strong&gt;into the sprocket&lt;/strong&gt; - which means it goes on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;tension pulley&lt;/strong&gt; needs to go on the &lt;strong&gt;slack side&lt;/strong&gt; of the chain - which again means it goes on the bottom (the top side of the chain loop has the drive tension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the drive train was reversed, you could do it. Put the drive wheel in front and &lt;strong&gt;steer with your butt - like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oobject.com/crazy-bicycles/exib-reverse-mountain-bike/356/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/US6588786&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US Patent 6588786&lt;/a&gt; has what you've described&lt;/strong&gt;. Bonus: &lt;em&gt;you don't have to steer with your butt&lt;/em&gt; - cables link the handle bars to the forks. I found this while googling for 'front drive bicycle'.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vsQ8F.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another configuration: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1J2b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1J2b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eYI1P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eYI1P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastEditorUserId="2123" LastEditDate="2015-10-18T00:13:53.107" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T00:13:53.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-06T11:26:20.083" Score="0" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partners bike, a Pashley Princess Sovereign, had a flat front tyre, and whilst I was out a friend came to have a look. He removed the front wheel (detaching the brake, a fully enclosed brake hub), and afterwards had a spare part left over, an eye bolt, pictured below&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcHiu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;extra part&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone know where this is likely to come from? If it shouldn't have come from the Pashley then it is possible that it was from another bike and had been there a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8293" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T03:41:22.537" Title="Extra screw after removing front wheel (plus enclosed hub brakes)" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20997" CreationDate="2014-04-06T14:54:06.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to take pictures of the BB installation as @Batman suggested. After removing the crank arm, I actually noticed an offset of 1-2 mm on the drive side, like @mattnz anticipated. However, I also noticed that there was a gap of about 1 mm between the frame and the BB lid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/um60q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A bottom bracket installation, where there is a gap between the drive side BB lid and the frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this observation I googled a little bit, and learned &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/bottom-bracket-gap-239172.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from this forum thread&lt;/a&gt; that the drive side main body of the BB should be installed before the non-drive side cup. &lt;strong&gt;I had installed the parts in the wrong order.&lt;/strong&gt; I loosened the non-drive side cup a little bit, I was able to screw the main body in a couple of turns more. This eventually resulted as a chainline of 50 mm, which I find totally acceptable, as my target was 49 mm. The non-drive side cup sticks now out about a 1 mm or so, but the above mentioned forum thread suggested that this is OK as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the corrected installation, I can assure (for future reference), that at least this my UN55 70x122 bottom bracket &lt;strong&gt;does not have any offset at all&lt;/strong&gt;; length from end of the spindle to the center of the frame is equal on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that I've found answer to the math side of my question as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By combining info &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbinstitute.com/dl/dx_demo_chapter_10.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from pages 16 and 34 of this PDF&lt;/a&gt; I was able to find out that 122 mm Shimano BBs should give a relative chainline of +8 mm compared to the 110 mm ones. So if 110 mm BB should give a chainline of 42 mm with my crankset (as was the assumption), 122 mm should give 42 mm + 8 mm = 50 mm which is exactly what I'm seeing now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10777" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T14:54:06.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21025" CreationDate="2014-04-06T20:24:56.530" Score="22" ViewCount="53323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to ride to my university which is 9km away from my home and it is placed on a foothill. I guess the route is 5degrees uphill steep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden short routes before but not as long as 18 km.. I'm a beginner in riding, but physically I'm partly OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This is the path's elevation profile from google earth:&#xA;The average slope is 4.6% and max slope is 13.1% and altitude is 1224 ft.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ignMR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Elevation Profile From Google Earth&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10804" LastEditorUserId="10824" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T01:06:14.713" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T18:59:04.403" Title="Is it possible to ride 18km everyday for a beginner?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21024" CreationDate="2014-04-06T20:39:59.533" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;18km a day is not far, as long as you have an OK fitness level to start with and no health issues, it is certainly achievable, but...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will not get any rest days. I was once told, you do not get fit exercising, you get fit recovering. If you ride 5 days a week, there's no recovery time. This could lead to problems since each day's effort is stressing your body. For the beginning I would strongly recommend not more than 3 days (with a day between) until you are sure you can comfortably do five days every week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would suggest you to do is first thing in the morning measure your resting pulse rate. Do this for 3 or 4 mornings to establish a baseline. Start riding, taking it easy to begin with (for the first couple of weeks). Note how you feel and your resting pulse rate - if you feel bad and your pulse is higher than it should be, have a rest day or two. (Note - normally your resting pulse rate will fall as you get fitter, so your baseline will change.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is to have an alternative to riding available so you don't need to ride if you need a rest, but not so available that you use it all the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-04-06T22:43:00.640" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T22:43:00.640" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21024" CreationDate="2014-04-06T20:56:38.417" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, I would suggest that you not start out doing this daily, but do it every 2nd or 3rd day for a couple of weeks, taking care to take an extra rest day when needed.  You will find that some days you are eager to get started riding and others your stomach churns at the thought, and you can kind of use that to adjust your frequency.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After about 2 weeks, if you're tolerating it well, you can increase frequency, but probably not more than 2 days on/1 day off for another month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll likely be sore the next day for the first few days of riding, but the soreness should abate.  If it doesn't then don't increase frequency, and maybe ease off a little.  It is possible to cause serious muscle injury if you overdo in this sort of situation, especially if you're genetically predisposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It wouldn't be quite so much a concern if the route were flat, but a 5-degree (9%) grade is pretty steep, and you'll be getting a pretty good workout even if only half the route is that sttep.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T20:56:38.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15420" CreationDate="2014-04-06T21:22:34.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just completed a 300K brevet last weekend and my Garmin 500 ran out of juice about 2 miles from the end of the 190 miles. 18 hours. I just tried to plug it into an external battery that will charge phones and the Garmin 500, but the Garmin will not operate while plugged in and charging. Note this is the Garmin 500, not the 510.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend used an 810 on the ride charging through an external battery on the same ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10806" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T21:22:34.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21032" CreationDate="2014-04-06T22:33:56.480" Score="1" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had two innertubes explode on me on my bicycle, on the same wheel and tire. The first time I was inflating my inner tube after aquiring a puncture. On this occassion I was pumping my tires (rated at 50-90psi) beyond 70psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the first explosion I replaced the innertube, being careful to avoid pinching. I pumped up to 60psi. A few days later the inner tube exploded while the bike was hanging on it's rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After becoming the recipient of yet another puncture on the same tire (city streets...), I am wary of my inner tube installation. This time I inserted the inner tube under the tire, moved the tire beed back to the inner rim, and carefully checked to ensure that no pinching occurred. I have now inflated the tire to 60psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that, despite being very careful, I have sections where beed appears to be showing. My question is, given the amount of bead showing (about 2mm in one section), could the inflation cause another inner tube burst?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/25aa7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bead! Bead?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5787" LastEditorUserId="5787" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T15:23:13.833" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T17:11:13.497" Title="Do I have too much chafer strip showing after fixing a puncture?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21031" CreationDate="2014-04-07T00:15:22.700" Score="9" ViewCount="21886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pile of old patch kits for inner tubes that are complete except for the little tube of &quot;vulcanizing solution&quot; that comes in patch kits. With time, these tubes crack, or have a cap fail to seal perfectly, and dry out completely. I would love to be able to buy a larger container of solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vulcanizing solution appears and smells like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubber_cement&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rubber cement&lt;/a&gt; but I've seen suggestions that rubber cement simply contain similar solvents and/or polymers. None of my patch kits describe the chemicals in the vulcanizing solution tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is vuncalizing solution made of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I obtain it in quantitites larger than a tiny tube in a patch kit? Could I make it? Can I at least obtain larger quantities of the little tubes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10807" LastActivityDate="2019-06-17T17:52:31.230" Title="What does vulcanizing solution in patch kits consist of? Can I buy it?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21029" CreationDate="2014-04-07T03:17:53.817" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rematiptop.com/parts.php?sid=2&quot;&gt;The manufacturer&lt;/a&gt; sells said &quot;vulcanizing solution&quot; in quantities of 25g tubes through 1 gallon cans, so you should be able to buy it in larger quantities. Indeed, a quick search of Amazon yield &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B006P3C92S&quot;&gt;8 oz cans&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0017RYP4C&quot;&gt;slightly cheaper&lt;/a&gt;), and while I couldn't find it on something well known like Amazon there are other places that sell the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-205.html&quot;&gt;1 gallon quantity&lt;/a&gt;. However, as many of the reviewers on Amazon point out, an 8 oz can should be a lifetime supply, and won't dry up nearly as quickly as those little tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as what it is, that's a little harder to figure out. Checking the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rematiptop.com/technical/trm/msds/RTT-TRM-018-Cold-Vulcanizing-Cement-021814.pdf&quot;&gt;MSDS&lt;/a&gt;, we find only that it consists of 40-70% trichloroethelyne, an organic solvent. That doesn't really solve the problem, as that's just the solvent used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address the question of rubber cement, if we follow your link to Wikipedia, we find that it's generally a non-vulcanizing cement, while the tire patch stuff definitely claims to be vulcanizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving on, we can think about what the traditional solution to closely held trade secret formulas is. And the tool that was designed to solve that, though only does so imperfectly, is the patent system. Maybe we can find something in a patent filing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick check over on Google Patents yields something promising, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/patents/US3477968?dq=cold+vulcanizing+cement&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=mQtCU8eTMaXYyQHh54CIDA&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;pjf=1&amp;amp;ved=0CDUQ6AEwAA&quot;&gt;Cold self-vulcanizing rubber compositions&lt;/a&gt;; however, upon reading the patent, it's a three part mixture, and the process involves things like &quot;the rubber used is a natural rubber, partially depolymerized by mechanical working and peptization with diorthobenzamidophenyl.&quot; I don't know about you, but peptization with diorthobenzamidophenyl is not exactly something I feel like trying to cook up with common household substances in my basement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading further on, we find some further promising patents like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/patents/WO2008147413A1?cl=en&amp;amp;dq=cold+vulcanizing+cement&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=mQtCU8eTMaXYyQHh54CIDA&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;pjf=1&amp;amp;ved=0CEoQ6AEwAw&quot;&gt;Tire repair with cured patch&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/patents/US4618519&quot;&gt;Tire repair by &quot;patch only&quot; method&lt;/a&gt;, but they all also involve discussions of the following form:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Suitable vulcanization accelerators include, but are not limited to, thiazoles, sulphenamides, guanidines, thiourea derivatives, amine derivatives, and combinations thereof. Examples of these include, but are not limited to: N-cyclohexyl-2-benzothiazyl sulfenamide (CBS), dibenzylamine (DBA), N-N'-diphenylguanidine (DPG), Dicyclohexylamine (DCHA), 2-mercaptobenzothiozyl disulfide (MBTS).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as references to entire books on rubber and the process of vulcanization: 'Rubber Technology, edited by Maurice Morton, Chapter 2, &quot;The Compounding and Vulcanization of Rubber,&quot; 3rd edition, 1987'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these appears to have any kind of description of a single readily available material or combination of a few that could be mixed together to work; they all appear to be fairly intricate, specialized compounds consisting of a variety of ingredients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think that the 8oz can on Amazon is probably your best bet. I've heard some people claim you can just use regular rubber cement, but given that there are big cans of the &quot;vulcanizing solution&quot; readily available, my instinct would be to go for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="454" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T03:17:53.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21028" CreationDate="2014-04-07T04:50:30.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The visible strip sticking out from the top of the rim and inside the line is in fact the Chafer strip. This is on the tire to prevent the bead hook on the rim from cutting into the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bead is the wire or in the case of folding tire such as the x'plor ush Kevlar ring on the edge of each tire. When seating the tire the bead is place inside the bead hook on the rim with a tube inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rims have a few different standards and many proprietary designs so do not have a consistent inner sidewall height. The tire bead when seated actually sits at the bottom of the rim rather than on the hook, so the amount of Chafer strip shown is dependent on the depth of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of Chafer strip showing would not be a cause of your tube exploding and there are many answers that address punctures  but my thought would be something loose in the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T04:50:30.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21001" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:19:36.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually there is one such &lt;a href=&quot;http://campagnolo.wikispaces.com/Cambio+Paris-Roubaix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;solution from Campagnolo&lt;/a&gt; which did not really stick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tX90x.png&quot; alt=&quot;Campio Paris-Roubaix&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general idea was to skip tensor altogether, and recompense change in chain length (distance it travels) by moving sprocket (whole wheel) back and forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage of such approach was reduced number of speeds you can have in our bike; mainly by disallowing you to have front gear changer. That wasn't too big problem on some races, just like Paris-Roubaix classic, but still lack of freedom was with speed selection (bracket size needed to correspond to distance by which wheel was moved) and wheel changing during race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10811" LastEditorUserId="10811" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T12:39:47.313" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T12:39:47.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21028" CreationDate="2014-04-07T07:22:24.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the line that you are seeing is indeed an indicator if the tire is properly installed. It doesn't matter how much it is showing. What is important is that it is visible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the indicator is showing too much somewhere, it will be hidden under the rim on the opposite side of the rim (opposite passing through the diameter). This would be an indication that the tire is seated in a wrong way and may:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fall out under pressure when cornering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give a rough ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; this is how things are supposed to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T07:22:24.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21010" CreationDate="2014-04-07T08:54:12.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I exclusively ride cleated pedals, what I always do whenever I need to come to a full stop is to shift to a low enough gear (on flats I'd shift to 34/21 or 34/23 -- I have a 'compact', ie. 50/34 crank), unclip my left foot, brake, then as I come to a stop, I shift my body towards the top tube and stand over it with my left foot on the ground. Usually when I put my foot down the bike would still be moving very slowly, but friction between the cleat and tarmac and/or a touch of the brake would stop me immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I need to move again, I'd take the right crank arm to the 2 or 3 o'clock position, give the bike a forward push with my unclipped (left) foot while my clipped (right) foot simultaneously pedals. And as my right crank arm reaches the 6 o'clock position, I'd lift my left foot off the ground, move my butt from over the top tube to the saddle, clip my left foot back in, and continue riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10813" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T08:54:12.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20934" CreationDate="2014-04-07T11:24:25.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that  what you are looking for is ANT+ sensor for you iPhone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unforunately this is also problematic; &lt;a href=&quot;https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/on-the-go/mobileaccessories/ant-adapter-for-iphone/prod103887.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;there are some products on marcet&lt;/a&gt; but they all are using &quot;old&quot; 30-pin iPhone connector. So you would need a 30-pin-to-lightning adatper like &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.apple.com/us/product/MD823ZM/A/lightning-to-30-pin-adapter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could just wait for lightning ANT+ sensor :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10811" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T11:24:25.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21024" CreationDate="2014-04-07T11:40:43.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it seems you've found, since there is no way to compare Beginner A and Beginner B to one another, there is only one way to find out: give it a try. That said, maybe not &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; day at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10587" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T11:40:43.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21041" CreationDate="2014-04-07T11:50:48.687" Score="2" ViewCount="6464" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bicycle pedal fell off today while riding to work. I don't have a wrench at work. How can I install the pedal again so I can safely ride home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10794" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T09:34:19.450" Title="How do you install a bicycle pedal without a wrench?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21024" CreationDate="2014-04-07T12:43:31.907" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I say it's perfectly possible. In fact I've done something similar twice in my life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; - At 28 I decided to start cycling to work. I rode for leisure occasionally but this was a big change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The commute was about 14 km each way and generally uphill on the way to work in the morning and downhill on the way home. The difference in altitude between start and finish was about 140 m so the ride had an overall gradient of about 1%. Note that this felt like a 'proper' challenge at the time &lt;s&gt;and as much as you might think your ride is about a 5% gradient, that distance/gradient is getting on for a category 1/HC climb (the Alpe d'Heuz is 8% over 14 km) so I'd assume your ride is a good bit gentler than that! You can check altitudes at map locations with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daftlogic.com/sandbox-google-maps-find-altitude.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tools like this&lt;/a&gt; to get a more accurate idea.&lt;/s&gt; so your climb will be pretty challenging, fitness wise. (updated after your clarification!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was not especially fit or unfit at that time but managed this commute without too many problems. The main one was arriving drenched in sweat until my general fitness had improved a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike I used was a GT Palomar - not an especially auspicious (or indeed light!) bike. It lasted well though and I probably put about 3,000 km on it commuting in that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth pointing out that I was only using the bike in fair conditions, either taking the bus or car when the rain/snow/ice was too bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; - The second occasion was just recently when, at 41, I decided I'd try and cycle every day for a month. Again, apart from a few leisure rides I'd hardly been on my bike for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I picked just about the wettest January the UK has ever seen to try this. I was significantly less fit than I was at 28 and probably carrying about an extra 5 or 6 kg too. I rode almost every day in January, averaging about 10-15 km a day for a total of about 400 km and lost most of the extra weight I was carrying. That I live in quite a hilly area helped as the overall gradient for all my January rides was over 1% (i.e. I climbed over 4,000 m in January).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially it was easy as I had a lot of motivation, despite the torrid conditions. Within about a week I was already noticing significant improvements in my segment times but then the weather worsened and it was a real struggle just getting out - there were so many flooded roads - but I persevered. Tracking my improvements helped a lot as I was able to see my personal best times tumble, in some cases I'm now doing some climb segments over twice as fast as I was in January and am in the top 20% on Strava - not bad for an old bloke on a XC MTB!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike I used was a Specialized Hardrock, a bit lighter than the GT but still nothing special.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't suffer any real physical problems as I was careful to warm up/down and do lots of stretching. Padded shorts helped avoid any saddle sores. My thighs ached constantly for about five weeks, but I could almost watch the muscle being gained so it's no surprise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this isn't the recomended way to train and it is sub-optimal if pure fitness/training was the aim, but my goal was more of a holistic 'challenge to myself' and as such I knew what I was doing and that I could get 'fitter' by scheduling in rest days etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I've scaled my riding back a bit, but my month in the saddle taught me a lot about myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3104" LastEditorUserId="3104" LastEditDate="2014-04-09T06:36:53.380" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T06:36:53.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-07T13:10:37.507" Score="0" ViewCount="1225" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was wondering what heavy duty tires someone would recommend.  I have been using stock tires and they have blown a leak a number of times in the last six months.  Love the bike, just want more sturdy and fatter tires.  I live in pothole central and want something that can handle it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00AWNI07K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Schwinn-Phocus-Bicycle-Black-18-Inch/dp/B00AWNI07K/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations?  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10818" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T19:06:41.447" Title="new tires for schwinn phocus 700C" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21038" CreationDate="2014-04-07T13:43:59.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you normally make effective use of two pedals...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identify a nearby place where tools are available to purchase or borrow: a bike shop, hardware store or some other premises where tools are used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride these using the other pedal that I assume is still functional.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have platform pedals, bind your foot to the other pedal using tape or narrow cable-ties. This binding should be weak enough to release your foot if you forget and lean that way, but strong enough that you can turn the crank through 360 degrees using one pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your local terrain has significant undulations, bear in mind that your power output will be reduced and the leg whose foot is secured will be working more continuously and may fatigue quickly. Consider a more distant tool-source if it offers a flatter route or fewer interruptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T13:43:59.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21040" CreationDate="2014-04-07T14:20:03.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Potholes cause impact punctures (also called &lt;em&gt;pinch punctures&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;snakebites&lt;/em&gt;) when the force of an impact is sufficient to compress the tyre all the way to the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options to reduce the risk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase tyre pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce impact energy by reducing weight or reducing speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use larger tyres&lt;/strong&gt;, which would increase the distance between the rims and potential hazards and could also be more comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your arms and legs as suspension to absorb some of the impact force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure your weight is not excessively biased to the front or rear of the bicycle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure your frame and fork to check your maximum tyre size:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slick bicycle tyres tend to have circular cross-sections so the tyre should be as high above the rim as their width. (Unless your chosen tyre has a thick extra layer of rubber to prevent penetration by glass and thorns, e.g Schwalbe's &quot;Plus&quot; models)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regulation EN 4.10.2 &quot;Wheel/Tyre Assembly - Clearance” states a minimum tire clearance of 6mm between any part of the frame or fork. I suggest you maintain this clearance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T14:20:03.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21028" CreationDate="2014-04-07T15:48:33.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your edit, do this.  Remove the wheel, deflate to about 10 PSI, then roll it along the ground, pressing down hard, for several revolutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've done this examine the strip.  Anywhere where the strip is not showing the &quot;average&quot; amount, tug on the tire to pull it out.  Anywhere where the strip is showing too much, first examine the opposite side of the tire at that (ie, the left side of the tire if the problem's on the right).  If the strip is not showing as much on that side, tug it out a bit.  If the strip is showing too much on both sides try to work it inward (tug out other places where it's too close).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that the tire sits too high near the valve.  This is often due to the thick portion of the tube near the valve being caught between the bead and the rim.  In that case, push the valve into the tire (remove the nut if there is one) and try to rock the tire back and forth to get the tube in the right place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find a spot where the tire sits too low.  This can be due to having twisted the tube while installing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got the tire relatively well centered, inflate in increments of 20 pounds or so, roll along the ground, and inspect/align again, until you reach your desired pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, if you have a blowout on a tire, always examine it for actual holes that will let the tube &quot;balloon&quot; through.  Small ones can be fixed, at least temporarily, with a &quot;boot&quot;.  Bigger ones (larger than about 1/4&quot;) would require the tire to be immediately replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, since you don't say what size this is, remember that not all 26&quot; tires have the same rim diameter.  Make sure that the metric diameter on your tire matches the metric diameter of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also&lt;/strong&gt;, when installing a tube the way to do it is to first inflate the tube just enough so that it rounds out and limply holds its shape.  Then work the valve into the valve hole and tuck the tube into place.  This is easier than inserting while completely flat, and it helps assure that the tube is not twisted or caught between tire and rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T17:11:13.497" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T17:11:13.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8154" CreationDate="2014-04-07T16:01:37.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Phil Wood freehubs come apart with a pair of 5mm hex wrenches.  Insert into the axle ands and twist.  There are four pawls in the cassette body that engage the steel ratchet ring wedged into the aluminum hub shell.  A single spring is coiled around the four pawls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rebuild kit will replace the pawls and spring.  It will not replace the ratchet ring.  If you have a Phil freehub fail under warranty by all means get it back to the home office for repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10822" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:01:37.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21024" CreationDate="2014-04-07T16:14:29.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can definitely do it, the points about rest are good ones though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are commuting every day, I think it takes a conscious effort to take it easy on most days, and &quot;reward&quot; yourself by letting your body just have at it on others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of that question is how you'll be presentable when you get there?  Especially at first, you may sweat a lot going uphill.  You may not smell it, but others will. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10823" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:14:29.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21074" CreationDate="2014-04-07T16:23:39.440" Score="2" ViewCount="1791" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok I have a number of variables at play here and I'm trying to obtain the best chain line possible this is on my polo bike so not super important but if there is a way I can do it I'm willing to put the effort into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a polo bike it is treated as a single speed and with my setup I've strived to created a more functional polo bike with a 2 cog freewheel. Hence I can ride my bike to the court on my commuter gear, take a 15mm wrench out of my bag slam the wheel and use my polo gear on the same freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rear hub is a Primo son of a bomb which I believe is 120mm spaced with a 2 speed suntour freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rear track ends are 135mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up front is a deore triple crank with a rageface 32tooth (74BCD) chain ring on the utmost inner ring. I had to space this out away from the crank spider with 2mm chain bolt spacers to stop the master link rubbing. The chainring as about 5-7mm of space between it and the chainstay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current BB (unsure) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with all these metrics is it possible for me to workout a BB length and rear spacer set to get a straight chainline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T18:42:54.400" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T21:00:54.097" Title="Obtaining the optimum chain line" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21050" CreationDate="2014-04-07T19:26:36.203" Score="3" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine is riding consistently in largest chainring front and smallest cog rear. The corresponding teeth counts are respectively 44 and 11. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bicycle is an Acera-level mountain bike with very light and fitting them frame. Gears shift relatively quickly and reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their average speed is about 30km/h, while commuting 20km total per day. The traffic is average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their acceleration at traffic light is low. However, I have observed no other drawbacks. To my surprise, the chain and smallest cog are still operational, after 1-2 years of year-round commuting - dust, snow, salt, mud, rain. (measured with a chain ruler)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when it becomes impossible to ride this gear (standing up), they switch to a much much easier gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is this a reason for concern? Knees, traffic safety, mountain trekking endurance, bike components wear (from most important to least important)?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;A couple of clarifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tires are 26x2.0 semi-slicks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It was a mistake to claim average speed of 30km/h. This is rather cruising speed. On the other hand, starting from a red light or recovering from a difficult turn takes forever (5 seconds for example).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T06:40:35.700" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T09:28:46.170" Title="Why and how much is riding big-chainring-frong small-cog-rear a negative practice?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21048" CreationDate="2014-04-07T20:31:37.353" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As commented by @Daniel R Hicks the problems I would be concerned about are to his own health. The bike components that will wear out prematurely are simpler to replace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potential health issues are knee problems from &quot;mushing&quot; all the time. MTBer's tend to run lower cadence than road riders, for valid reasons, but when on the road tend to run closer to road cadence. Mushing causes excessive pressure on the knee, causing the joint to wear out - its an Orthopedic surgeons retirement plan, in 20 years time he will be doing knee replacements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other concern is mixing it with traffic in high gear. You have limited ability to accelerate and your balance is often compromised. Under usual conditions, not a problem, but in an emergency that could be the difference between a close call and a grease mark on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less of a concern, and people physical attributes vary, is endurance and aerobic capacity. The reason for spinning faster is it provides maximum aerobic efficiency. Under about 80RPM you are not able to maximize the power output of you legs. Beginners often spin too slow, as the optimal cadence needs technique and practice to learn how.  To some it feels you are going faster mushing as it feels like it takes less effort if you spin faster. I find a good test is to get them to change down a gear, keep the same effort and monitor their speed. Most are surprised to see an instant increase of 1 or 2km/h for no more effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really keen to get him to spin faster, put him on a bike with short - really short (like 145mm off a kids bike)- cranks for a few rides. As you have much lower torque, you have to spin to go fast, but spinning smoothly is easier, so you just do it. It's a great training aid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T04:41:38.050" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T04:41:38.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21051" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-07T20:35:02.857" Score="4" ViewCount="2642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've almost always rode on a BMX, so I've never been sitting while riding because of how low the seat is.Now I've had a chance to try out a more normal bike but I found sitting on the seat to be very uncomfortable so I've been riding several km standing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried many different seats but they were all too uncomfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite concerned that if I start doing this everyday Ill develop some leg problems (like blood circulation maybe?) or have other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10826" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T15:42:07.250" Title="Riding bicycle without using seat" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21051" CreationDate="2014-04-07T21:06:43.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traveling long distances on a bike seat is almost always going to be uncomfortable when your body isn't used to it. Give it time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But also, consider taking your bike with you to have a professional make sure the seat and the bike fit you. Some people have managed to permanently damage their blood vessels ( I won't go into detail ) by improperly sitting on a bike seat. Call around to see if there's a bike shop near you that can help and ask how much they'll charge you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T21:06:43.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-07T21:23:37.053" Score="2" ViewCount="2002" Body="&lt;p&gt;As described in this blog post below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.training4cyclists.com/threshold-power/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.training4cyclists.com/threshold-power/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Example: 3 x (3+3min) at VO2max / recovery. If you use a heart rate monitor, your heart rate should be above 95% of maximum at the end of these intervals. If you use a power meter, your target power could be in the area of 120% of your functional threshold power or even better based on your 5min maximum power. - See more at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.training4cyclists.com/threshold-power/#sthash.DbD9Dyf9.dpuf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.training4cyclists.com/threshold-power/#sthash.DbD9Dyf9.dpuf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would you use the intervals methods described in the blog below:&#xA;▼ 10 minute controlled warm up with bursts up to FTP &#xA;▼ 20 minutes @ 85% FTP &#xA;▼ 4 minutes recovery @ 150 watts maximum &#xA;▼ 20 minutes @ 85% FTP &#xA;▼ 6 minutes cool down spinning at 100 rpm&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flammerouge.je/factsheets/functhresh.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flammerouge.je/factsheets/functhresh.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or have I missed the point of either recommendation in the blog posts above and are these type of intervals dependant on the time of year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T15:09:34.800" Title="would you use vo2 max intervals increase your functional threshold power using a power meter?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21053" CreationDate="2014-04-08T00:22:36.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the real goal you are attempting to accomplish? Increasing FTP suggests you're purely interested in improving your TT or climbing speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to hang in the pack and be able to make that hard effort when tactics require it you need to do both kinds of intervals. Both kinds of intervals will have an effect on your FTP. The one that more closely matches what you are attempting to accomplish will probably have the biggest &quot;bang for the buck&quot;.&#xA;If you're purely interested in increasing FTP, then the longer sub-full effort&#xA;intervals will likely show the most initial results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is also the issue of diminishing returns, there comes a point where doing the same thing over and over again doesn't provide additional training benefit. And on the other hand, you have to be able to recover from the workout, those relatively long sub-full efforts can be very sneaky. It's easy&#xA;to over do them. The short hard ones are largely self regulating, once the times&#xA;start dropping, you know the workout is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kind of speed work you do is far less important than making sure you recover properly from the workout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no magic bullet to tell you, do this to achieve that number. Everybody responds differently to a specific workout and the best thing you can do to improve is to monitor your response. This is why athletes have coaches, figuring out exactly what to do next is difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T00:22:36.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21053" CreationDate="2014-04-08T00:23:32.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, because I'm not training as a competition cyclist&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see, very few of the members here &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; competition riders. If any of the regulars are, they hide it very well. Lets face it: if we were in serious training, we wouldn't be spending our time here :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think you need a coach&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You sound keen on getting into comp riding. Join a club and get proper coaching. At a club  you also mingle with other people with &lt;em&gt;real experience&lt;/em&gt;, who are happy to &lt;em&gt;pass it on&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice you get on some internet board cannot take your exact situation into account. It can even be dangerous. We cannot know from a few interactions over the web what your health, fitness, potential, and riding abilities are. Your goals matter also. There are different clubs for different kinds of riding. Even there, you will see different training for different events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The difference between those articles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware the sales pitch. The training4cyclists article looks like a sales pitch to encourage you to buy the ebook, and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flammerouge article seems to be much more realistic, and explains much more carefully. The advice it gives seems to me to more cautious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A few final points&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you injure yourself through over-training, or &quot;incorrect&quot; training / technique, then you wont get to compete. So get proper &lt;em&gt;face to face&lt;/em&gt; coaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the gain from training occurs during recovery. The flammerouge article reiterates that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you understand the &lt;em&gt;purpose&lt;/em&gt; and goal of every training session. How does it fit into your goals? Why are you doing it? How do you do it correctly? Can you do too much? Do you get the benefit if you do less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More power to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: This &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/602/what-are-the-easiest-ways-to-determine-functional-threshold-power/629#629&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; suggests&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;get 'Training and Racing w/ a Power Meter' by Hunter Allen and Andrew Coggan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T08:21:45.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-08T01:49:04.463" Score="0" ViewCount="1256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Suntours xcm (spring 80mm) on my hard tail.&#xA;I drive more frequent and more pretentious. So I consider to upgrade my fork.&#xA;How can I tell if I need a better one? What can a good air-suspension  better than my current?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what would be a good replacement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more adjustments&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;higher responsiveness &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastEditorUserId="10748" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T14:26:03.790" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T22:29:09.430" Title="Upgrade suspension on hard tail MTB" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21024" CreationDate="2014-04-08T02:10:30.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with most answers but I think they all assume you will ride in a sporty fashion, but you don't have to, at least not all days. Does a driver race their car everyday on the way to work or school? Commuting is totally different from bike racing or training, you can combine the two, but the purpose of commuting is &quot;getting there on time&quot;, you don't really need to go fast all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling on a well maintained bike, adequate tires properly inflated, with a moderate gear and a moderate pace is an effort that is comparable to a fast walk. So if in flat terrain you pedal at, say 15 kmh, you will make the one way trip (9 km) in 36 minutes. Then your body gets to rest during your school day and then you'll have another 36 minutes. How do you feel about walking fast for 36 minutes two times a day every day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing the same but riding at 20 kmh is similar to running, but it takes only 27 minutes. Take it to 25 kmh and you'll get there in 22 minutes. You get the idea. So if you are used to everyday physical activity, you'll be able to do the commute just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My whole point is if you keep a low effort during your commutes you may be able to commute five days a week right from the beginning, having a short period to fully adapt your body to the new routine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to keep your effort low I suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the bike on top performing order, no matter if it is a top of the line road racer or an old beater steel mountain bike. Specially ball bearings on wheel hubs, pedal axles and bottom bracket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your commute is on paved roads but you ride a mountain or hybrid bike, install slick tires. Tires without knobs roll much easier allowing higher speeds with less effort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your tires properly inflated. An under inflated tire takes more effort to be rolled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a multiple gear bike use them to gradually accelerate and try to maintain a steady pace, avoid sudden accelerations. Choose a gear that allows you to pedal on a &quot;rhythm&quot; slightly faster than your &quot;decided walking&quot;. Start on easy gears and change them progressively as you accelerate.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are commuting to an environment with some sort of a dress (and smell) code you may find this question useful as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15594/how-to-ride-to-work-without-sweating/15599#15599&quot;&gt;How to ride to work without sweating?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T02:10:30.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21067" CreationDate="2014-04-08T05:13:25.347" Score="13" ViewCount="7472" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano has been using their 'Shadow' technology on their high-end mountain bike rear derailleurs (&gt; Deore) for many years.  In addition to the benefit described in the images below (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/news_and_info/shimano_technology/shadow.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), Shadow derailleurs have a more direct housing routing near the derailleur, which results in a lot less cable friction, and therefore, better and smoother shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hfpta.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lowgear&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dh8hO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;highgear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why doesn't Shimano use this technology on their road rear derailleurs?  Interestingly enough, SRAM also went out of their way to avoid direct housing routing near the rear derailleur when they came out with their road derailleur, even though they'd been using direct routing for many years on their mountain bike derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1605" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T15:06:46.080" LastActivityDate="2018-03-10T11:58:20.387" Title="Why doesn't Shimano use shadow technology on road derailleurs?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21061" CreationDate="2014-04-08T06:33:17.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;a) profile reduction is more or less irrelevant to road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) the cost of retooling all their road bike dérailleur manufacturing to get a very marginal gain in reduced cable friction probably makes it not worth it. It might be more expensive to produce dérailleurs in that configuration too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) (tinfoil hat mode) they deliberately want to keep shifting on their cabled road dérailleurs poor so as to boost sales of di2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10299" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T06:33:17.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21059" CreationDate="2014-04-08T09:26:42.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fork travel is limited by frame.&#xA;You should look for something about 80mm.&#xA;You could put 140mm fork, but bike geometry will be uncomfortable.&#xA;XCM basically is just a spring. Same speed for &quot;down&quot; and &quot;up&quot;.&#xA;If there is local bike club, go to them and ask to try some bike with good fork. Feeling can't be explained :) Gravel feels like tarmac :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XCM is pretty heavy forк ~2300 grams&#xA;RockShox Solo Air is less then 1400 grams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check this video: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odkYA9KJK1E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.youtube.com/watch?v=odkYA9KJK1E&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8591" LastEditorUserId="7279" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T14:49:44.767" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T14:49:44.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21048" CreationDate="2014-04-08T09:28:46.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding everywhere in one gear is usually not a good idea, unless you're on a SS/fixie. And SS aren't a good idea everywhere (like where I live, for example, an island with almost no flat spaces at all), but the gearings they have are usually somewhere in the mid-range, where you can speed up relatively quickly, won't blow yourself out cruising, but won't be winning any races, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heaviest gearings may contribute to knee problems, but the much more immediate concern is that it makes riding a bike more of a chore than it should be. I live in a hilly place and I'm nearly constantly changing gears, and when I go someplace flatter I &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; find myself changing gears all the time based on wind. The only time I don't is sidewalk riding, 4th-grade style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... if your friend wants to ride 4th grade style, that's his issue (and his knees, if the medical thing is true). For people who spend a good bit of time on their bikes (commuting in my case) riding in the biggest gear everywhere sounds like a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10587" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T09:28:46.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21038" CreationDate="2014-04-08T09:34:19.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get it to start on the threads by hand then you can tighten it enough that you should be able to ride &lt;em&gt;carefully&lt;/em&gt; home. I've done this before, but its messy (as in, on your fingers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The threading should make the pedal secure itself (or at least not back out) when pedaling forward, but might get wacky if you tend to backspin or goof off with your feet at intersections. Of course, if your cranks are on backwards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10587" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T09:34:19.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21061" CreationDate="2014-04-08T11:41:34.793" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer would be that it's heavier, which is very important in road-bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the cable friction and smoother shifting, road shifters are going towards &lt;a href=&quot;http://eps.campagnolo.com/en&quot;&gt;electronics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10811" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T11:41:34.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-08T12:32:05.867" Score="4" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in India and have been commuting to office daily on cycle for nine months now. I have developed a permanent sore throat and my skin has also deteriorated because of pollution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a neo mask (anti pollution), but I find it hard to breathe with it on while going uphill. Please suggest how to prevent pollution from taking a toll on one's body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10844" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T13:16:55.400" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T15:13:56.480" Title="How to protect yourself from pollution in city cycling" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;pollution&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21061" CreationDate="2014-04-08T13:04:11.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The benefit of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Inside-Shimanos-Shadow-Plus-Mech-and-How-To-Adjust-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shadow Plus&lt;/a&gt; friction clutch is that rough terrain&#xA;  doesn't allow the chain to pull against the rear derailleur cage&#xA;  spring, so the chain stays taught and in control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key words &lt;em&gt;rough terrain&lt;/em&gt; here. The whole purpose of the shadow tech is to reduce chain slap, which isnt a problem for pavement road racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, the friction clutch adds a damper to the mass (chain, bouncing) and the spring (twist of the derailleur cage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T18:57:09.267" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T18:57:09.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21053" CreationDate="2014-04-08T15:09:34.800" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those should both be staple type workouts in your folder. There are basically two types of workouts that you should be doing to increase your speed, and both of them are described fairly well in your examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is a threshold workout - This is a pace that is at or near your race pace, with relatively short recovery. This is the second workout you describe, with the 80-85% FTP. (Remember that an FTP measurement is generally described as the maximum effort you can sustain for one hour). In this you are doing near a race pace, with short recovery compared to the length of the sustained effort. This type of effort is designed to increase the amount of time you can hold a high effort level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is an interval workout, which is what your first workout describes. This is short periods of very intense effort, with enough recovery to ensure that you can complete the next interval at the desired level. If you note, the recovery period (3 minutes) for this one is nearly as long as the recovery for the threshold workout (4 mins) for a much shorter effort. This workout is designed to increase your top end speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken together over time, these workouts will increase your top speed, and increase the amount of time you can spend near that speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are also somewhat dependent on the time of year. During the &quot;off season&quot; if you will, you should be concentrating on long distance riding, not much intensity, to get a good base for the next year. A couple of months out you should start adding in some of these workouts, and increase the frequency in which you do them through the first few months of the season, then change over to fine tuning and maintenance type workouts. If you are unsure of how to do that, a coach can be a huge help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as measuring FTP, I'm not a big fan of the 5 minute tests. I prefer either an hour time trial if you can manage that, or the 2x20 method, preferably on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T15:09:34.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-08T18:30:07.797" Score="2" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could someone please advise me as to whether either (or both!) of the following bike racks will fit on the back of a 2002 Citroen Berlingo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;amp;item=351040656435&amp;amp;ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3 Carrier with Clips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-3-BICYCLE-CARRIER-CAR-RACK-BIKE-CYCLE-UNIVERSAL-FITS-MOST-CARS-REAR-MOUNT-/280930241759&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2 Carrier without Clips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note: these are links to eBay (UK) listings - I realise that this is irregular, but I couldn't actually find the manufacturer's website for them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are both strap-mounted, not tow-bar mounted; I do not have a tow-bar. Please note that it is a &lt;em&gt;van&lt;/em&gt; and so has a &lt;em&gt;vertical&lt;/em&gt; rear, not like a saloon/hatchback/estate, but to a smaller degree with an estate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to mount a road/racing bike and a mountain bike on it. I would prefer the 3 Carrier with clips, since, well, it holds three and has clips (!), but if it doesn't fit and the other one does, then the other one will do fine. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T15:06:56.817" Title="Will These Bike Racks Fit a 2002 Citroen Berlingo?" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21040" CreationDate="2014-04-08T18:55:41.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a cyclocross/hybrid commuter I'm running Continental Contacts, and they have been decent to good. (running 700x28's) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle_de_en/themes/city/Allround/CONTACT_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle_de_en/themes/city/Allround/CONTACT_en.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the wear I'm thinking of switching to Top Contact II's. Pretty spendy tho.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer I have a 'trekking' bike tire bias, In general I'm not concerned with weight, reliable is far more important to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure you get the right innertube size for the with of your tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10639" LastEditorUserId="10639" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T19:06:41.447" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T19:06:41.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21075" CreationDate="2014-04-08T19:48:24.037" Score="4" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that when I really give it hell after stopping or riding slow (I do that all the time on commute), I have to shift two gears at a time in the lower gears, to keep up with my acceleration. I then asked myself whether there's &lt;code&gt;any better way for the shifting to keep up with my acceleration&lt;/code&gt;. The shifting process itself goes very smooth and I can time it very well in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how do real bike racers do it?&#xA;The reason I ask is that I hardly believe that racers always loose time with shifting over several gears before the next &quot;thrust&quot;. Or does that not cause lots of time loss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do racing bikes have special gear ratios for optimizing speed of the shifting process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only cycle as a commuter (just 3.6km), but I probably behave somewhat like a racer (regarding speed) as well on that short route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T03:46:03.310" Title="Shifting can't keep up with my acceleration" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21046" CreationDate="2014-04-08T20:18:57.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We can make this easy... Lets assume your frame is totally straight and not bent in anyway.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure front chainline.  Chainline is the distance the chain is from the bike's centerline.  You will need an inexpensive machinist's scale .  A machinist scale is just a small 6&quot; long ruler. On a machinist's scale the zero mark is exactly at the edge of the scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IHGrK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front Chainline&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the front chainline from the edge of the seat tube.  To that number add the radius of the seat tube.  My seat tube is 28mm in diameter, half of that is the radius. My front chainline is at 14 + 34 = 48mm &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVATl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear Chainline&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rear chainline you measure from the inner edge of the dropout to the gear. You know the width of your rear hub (135mm) and you subtract the measurement.  (oops.. my rear hubs are 135mm yours are 120mm, right?  Obviously you should use your measurements! ) In my case, the chainline to that center gear is 135/2 - 24.5mm (from photo) = 43mm   Remember the chainline is the distance between the chain and the CENTER of the bicycle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously my bike is using a derailleur so I'm not freaking out about a slight mismatch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that help?  If you know where you are, you can then make changes to the front crankset with shims to adjust chainline a bit. Depending on which hubs you use, you can do some spacing work at the rear as well.  Easiest combo is a multigear hub used for a single speed with a Surly hub spacer kit.  That makes it all easy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That cheap machinist scale takes all the guesswork out of the conversation.  Do note, because of how cranksets mate to the crankarm and bottom bracket, its almost impossible to pre-determine chainline from parts sitting on a table. You have to install them on a bike to the correct installation torque, then do your measurements, then take it all apart to make adjustments as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Sheldon Brown, although he has passed away now (sigh), is still your friend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more comment: Are you really trying to use a 120mm wide rear hub on a 135mm frame?  I don't think that's a clever idea.  5mm off, okay.  That far off, you risk bending the frame.  Yes, you could convert that 120mm wide rear hub to an effective 135 with spacers and a long axle.  If you are going to do that please purchase SOLID axles intended for a 135 hub.  With the loading from a 120mm wide hub a hollow skewer axle probably won't cut it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10848" LastEditorUserId="10848" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T21:00:54.097" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T21:00:54.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21073" CreationDate="2014-04-08T21:25:25.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember, very few road racers are giving it hell from a standing start. The vast majority of the time they are traveling at a fairly high rate of speed as they approach the end of the race (With the lead out for the sprint, positioning, etc), so the need to jump multiple gears is very limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other times where quick acceleration is needed is to jump a gap or catch a potential breakaway, take advantage of a person lagging on a climb, things of this nature. Again, they are traveling at speed, not from a standing start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason that you have to jump gears is that it is easy to push the gears (low torque), but you quickly speed up past the point where the gear is effective, and depending on your cassette, you may have already almost passed the speed where the next gear up is effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, road racers often swap gearing in their cassettes, but this is to match the gearing to the terrain. If you are going to be in a mostly flat race, there is no need to have a 28 tooth large cog in the back, so they might go with an 11-20. Conversely, if there is a lot of steep climbing, they may swap to some kind of 12-28 (or greater) configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Track bikes (Which would have more relevance to short burst from standing starts in some of the events) have no gearing, they are fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T21:41:05.693" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T21:41:05.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21071" CreationDate="2014-04-08T22:02:57.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those style of racks are pretty versitile, I would be surprised if they do not fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem may be that as you Citroen has a near verticle rear, the bikes may sit further out from the rear than needed, depending on rack design and adjustments. This puts weight further behind the rear wheels affecting handling. I used a Rhode version of these regularly, but when I need to carry 3 or more bikes I use my old 4x4 (Isuzu Bighorn, Opel/Vauxhall Monterey/ GMC Trooper depending where in the world you live) and a towbar mounted rack. Even that car is affected by the weight of 3 bikes hanging off the rear end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would hesitate to put too much weight on such a rack, and I would invest in a reputable brand if the bikes are worth a lot, but I have seen racks like these loaded with 4 mountain bikes. Think about what happens if the rack fails - I had a mate who managed a large bike shop, he often had customers buying new bikes after they fell off racks. One customer purchased 4 new bikes after the rack fell off at 100km/h with a logging truck following him. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go ahead with one of these be aware of the common failure modes-  the straps on some models often loosen over hours of driving - so long trips pay speacial attention. Also the ones with the rubber clips that hold the bike, do not trust the rubber. Many internet reviews discuss straps breaking and bikes falling on the road. I always use an independent tie down (bungies are fast and effective), maybe I am paranoid. Also many people discuss problems at speeds like 70MPH - think of the wind pressure of a bike movign sideways at 70mph, even on the back of a car its significant (My car uses 2litre/100km more petrol carrying bikes, all of that is drag caused by the bike....).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T22:42:23.557" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T22:42:23.557" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-08T23:43:39.263" Score="14" ViewCount="2638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://beltbik.es/spot-brand/2012/acme-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2012 Spot Acme&lt;/a&gt; and it's been great, everything is still smooth and working well into its second winter. However I picked it up to bring it into the office a week ago and noticed grease all over my hands, just like a chain would do. Here's a picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ST5En.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;greasy black stuff all over the belt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's like a heavy black graphite-looking grease, definitely oily and not just dirt. There are no signs of leakage from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/0/alfine/product.-code-SG-S700-L.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alfine SG-700 hub&lt;/a&gt; or the bottom bracket. (Hub oil is a much lighter product more like automatic transmission fluid and there is only 25cc of it.) If either the hub or the bracket had leaked all its lubricant I would expect at least some creaking or other noise but it's still all smooth and silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't ridden in anything but normal wet weather. If I had gone through a big puddle of grease I would expect to find some on the frame, my clothes, experience disc brake issues - but everything else is clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gates technical support says that the belt would not deteriorate so quickly and even if it did it would not release any residue, and that it can be removed and cleaned with no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions as to what I should check next? If this stuff came out of the bike then something needs some attention. If it didn't, how can it be confined to the belt and sprockets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: It almost certainly is a leak from the Alfine 11 hub, Spot Bikes say it has been known to happen and there are a few search hits with people describing exactly this problem. The bike is in for service with a local shop now (under warranty), I'll update again with the outcome. Annoying to be without a bike...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second Update: I'm picking up the bike tonight, after a cost-free fix under warranty. The hub was inspected by Shimano's representative and pronounced OK once the seal was replaced. The Gates drive components were decontaminated and everything is said to be fine now. If I experience any further leaks, shift issues or if exposure to Shimano's $$$$$ hub lubricant has had any negative effects on the drivetrain I'll continue the saga here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third Update: I've put a few hundred km on the bike after the fix and everything seems OK in terms of seal. I might be mistaken but it seems be slipping a bit more often when I put a lot of power on the pedals. I'm watching it and will start making some noise about a complete replacement from Shimano if it gets worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth update (early April 2015): It's leaking again. Have asked the bike store to talk to Shimano about replacement :-( When it works it is a nice product but at this stage I would not recommend it to anyone - maybe if they give me a replacement and it works for 12 months with no leaking I might change my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fifth update (early June 2015): The hub is back from Shimano after being with them for approximately two months. The repair note, once it came back, says &quot;replaced internals and seals&quot;. I don't know if that means my hub is now the equivalent of a current production Alfine 11 or if it has just had a new seal installed. Maybe it has just been patched up like it was the first time and it will start leaking again in 12 months of moderate use - or maybe it is now as good as current production Alfine 11 is claimed to be. In any case it has cost me a not-inexpensive wheel build + $20 more to ship it to Shimano, and I'm not that confident. Overall this has been a negative experience and I will be thinking carefully about whether I get another wheel built using this hub or just leave it on a shelf in the shed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sixth update (late July 2015): I built a new wheel with the hub. Left the wheel leaning against a wall for a couple of days until I had a chance to properly clean the Gates sprocket after the last leak. When I went to complete installation of the sprocket, shift lever etc. - I found it leaking again. Shimano can now replace this with a new one that doesn't leak. Or I give up, try something else, and do my best to help the rest of the world avoid the Alfine 11 hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="1914" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T10:13:43.620" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T02:16:48.043" Title="Mystery grease source - Alfine 11, Gates Belt drive, Shimano bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;belt-drive&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21077" CreationDate="2014-04-09T00:03:22.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you know right now is that there's quite a lot of it and it's quite greasy. Which is useful, but not especially useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that occurs to me is to question whether someone else might have oiled the belt for you? Has it been in a shop, or do you have someone else in your house who maintains a bike? Is there a source of fumes where you store your bike that could be breaking down the belt? Or could someone have spilled chemicals on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's really only a few possible sources of that grease on your bike, which I guess is why you're confused. The bike is new enough that the bottom bracket will be a sealed unit, so there should be no grease coming out of that. The hub should be sealed, but does contain grease. Plus external sources as above, which is why I'm focused on those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest cleaning it off and once everything is clean trying to see where the new dirt comes from. Right now it's spread from the source to cover everything, so there's no real way to tell. If you can put it in a workstand then clean off the hub, cogs, belt and everything, then reassemble it and test it you should be able to see whether anything is coming off the bike. I'd rotate the pedals enough to move about 15cm of belt, then run my finger/white cloth on the belt to see whether you can pick up new grease being laid down from one end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, ride it a few metres and check again - visually inspect everything to see if there's new grease appearing. If not, ride it a few hundred metres and check again. Eventually you'll have ridden if every day for a week and if it's still clean the answer is &quot;oil got on the belt from somewhere else&quot;. (it might stay a mystery, especially if someone did it deliberately then realised their mistake and doesn't want to own up to it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10584" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T00:03:22.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21077" CreationDate="2014-04-09T00:34:00.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to be somewhere you put your hands to lift the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the wheel rims. They can collect all sorts of grime when you ride in the wet. Some of it will be ground rubber from your brakes, but most is road dirt. Motor vehicles drop oil and grease, and lots of rubber on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that is the cause, the solution is to clean them after riding in wet weather. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T00:34:00.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21073" CreationDate="2014-04-09T01:14:01.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Change gears before you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this two ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change to a higher gear before you stop. Get out of the saddle when you start. You'll accelerate faster and shouldn't need to change gears until your doing 30 kph (20 mph) or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or change gears regularly as you start, say every 3 or 4 pedal strokes. 1, 2, 3, change. 1, 2, 3, change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T01:14:01.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21071" CreationDate="2014-04-09T01:19:14.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, you have to try a rack or check the manufacturer's compatibility list in order to see if it fits. The latter is not a sure option though - I once purchased a Thule rack which wouldn't clear the lip spoiler on my car, despite it being listed in the Thule compatibility list. It turns out that the models they test for compatibility on are the very base model (of which only the base manual lacks the lip spoiler), and I had to return the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when you buy a rack, make sure its of good quality. I'd be wary of putting a thousand dollars of bicycles on a 40 dollar rack. Also, note that racks aren't very secure when the vehicle is parked, so if possible, valuable bicycles should be stored inside the vehicle rather than outside (there are small locks which some rack manufacturers sell, but you can usually just take the rack itself if you really wanted to if its the kind that goes over the trunk - its a bit more work for the trailer hitch kind, but still feasible). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T01:19:14.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21073" CreationDate="2014-04-09T03:46:03.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider working on your cadence range; if you are able to spin up to 120-130 RPM, you will have a larger range and won't need to shift as often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One-legged drills and pure cadence drills can work well for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T03:46:03.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-09T04:00:27.130" Score="4" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed on group rides that some cyclists highlight turns and other information on cue sheets in different colors. Is there a universal convention for the colors used? (e.g. blue for left turns, pink for right)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T14:58:19.760" Title="What is the convention for highlight colors on cue sheets?" Tags="&lt;maps&gt;&lt;navigation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21024" CreationDate="2014-04-09T08:14:40.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a bike fitted to you for this. Seriously, go to a good bike shop in your area and have them do a proper bike fitting for you. They do this for free if you buy a bike with them, if you don't you should expect to pay about $30,-. If you don't buy the bike there make sure you know how to check if a bike fits you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike that has the wrong fit can lead to undue strain on knees, hip, lower-back, shoulders, neck... no issue if you ride an hour on the weekends, but a big issue if you spend more than an hour on that bike each and every day!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13653/bicycle-for-2-x-30mins-commute&quot;&gt;an answer about buying a bike for commuting here&lt;/a&gt; that is mostly relevant to your situation, though you should pay more attention to the low-end of your gearing. In the lightest gear you should be pedalling at a comfortable rate (about 80-90 rpm) at about 8km/h (maybe slower). Too heavy gearing at the low end means you will be killing your knees and lower back going uphill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fitness wise you should be fine if you get a bike with proper low gearing.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1073/what-do-you-wish-someone-had-told-you-before-your-first-commute&quot;&gt;This question has a lot of good advise for first-time bike commuters.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T08:14:40.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6843" CreationDate="2014-04-09T09:17:48.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I have identical bikes, bought as a double ride to work scheme. He leaves his outside and mine is kept inside. He started having this problem and replaced everything except the derailleur, which I think is over lubed and dirty and does not allow the tension to be constant on the chain causing it to slip. Every time mine starts slipping I degrease the derailleur, slightly oil it, and it is fine until it gets a bit dirty again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10850" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-04-09T20:15:30.763" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T20:15:30.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-09T12:45:21.927" Score="1" ViewCount="1810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to buy an MTB for learning stunts...(BTW my family wont allow me to buy a BMX because of its height).&#xA;So my question is shall I go for MTB with front suspension or not and with gears or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What i think is i should consider bike with gears,although they add extra weight but they can be removed later if i find them annoying...&#xA;However i have no idea about front suspensions whether they will make a bicycle stronger/flexible for stunts or not...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and which one will you prefer for my requirement btwin or  schnell&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10854" LastActivityDate="2017-10-09T12:10:54.373" Title="MTB with gears or non gears, suspension or non-suspension for stunts?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21086" CreationDate="2014-04-09T13:51:37.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you plan on doing slopestyle/dirt jumping, you'll want at least front suspension in the range of 80-120mm (80-100mm being preferred) and no rear suspension. With larger slopestyle type jumps you may want a full suspension bike, but it's not worth it when you are just learning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you are looking at doing more street BMX and park style riding, you can get away with a rigid fork, but a suspension fork wouldn't be unusual here either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For gearing, most dirt jumpers and street riders ride single speed and just vary the ring/cog sizes as needed to suit their pedaling needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for brand, I would say Schnell, but neither of those brands look like they make a good trick-related bike. I would spend some time researching Dirt Jump/Slopestyle bikes, you can get one for the same price new or used and it will fit your purpose much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T13:51:37.070" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-09T14:06:28.437" Score="1" ViewCount="1880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cyclocross bike with an Ultegra 6700 chainset and a road bike with SRAM Red. I'm looking to get a Stages Ultegra power meter (left crank arm mounted) that I can swap between both bikes. This means I'm thinking of changing the Red chainset over to Ultegra 6700 (or Dura Ace) since the left crank arms aren't compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike in question is a 2011 Scott Addict R15: www.bikes.org.uk/scott-addict-r15-2011-road-bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's listed as having a &lt;strong&gt;SRAM Integrated BB Press Fit&lt;/strong&gt; but after doing some research I can't figure out whether the bottom bracket will be compatible with the Shimano chainset or not. If I have to get a new BB then that's fine, provided that the frame will accommodate it of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated, even just helping me identify exactly what BB I already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The other option of course would be to put a SRAM Force chainset on the cyclocross bike, if for some reason doing the conversion this way round is any easier.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4850" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T11:54:57.927" Title="Replacing SRAM Red chain set with Ultegra - bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21024" CreationDate="2014-04-09T14:46:46.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;18 km is very manageable. You might feel it for the first few days, but you'll quickly get used to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make alternate plans for the rainy, or just not feeling up to it, days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be prepared to change your mind just as you're about to leave the door... So have those bus tickets ready. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10857" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T14:46:46.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21071" CreationDate="2014-04-09T15:06:56.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar rack (halfords branded) to those 2 (they use the same basic setup)  on an estate with a very steep tailgate, and can't see any reason why it wouldn't fit a Berlingo (which has a tailgate I presume, swing doors might be an issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did tend to set it up with the bottom of the rack on the rear bumper, but I didn't have to, it was just that the lowest hooks had nowhere to go except underneath the car.  You may have a similar issue, which would mean you can't open the tailgate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T15:06:56.817" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20787" CreationDate="2014-04-09T15:08:09.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This calculator here &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikegeo.muha.cc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bikegeo.muha.cc/&lt;/a&gt; may be helpful. It looks as though it's meant to calculate geometry changes resulting from a fork swap, but it does give you stack and reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10760" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T15:08:09.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16871" CreationDate="2014-04-09T15:50:58.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @Mac that you may not be able to tell the difference between 103 and 107. If your current 103mm is in good shape, why not buy the new crankset and try it on the old bottom bracket? Evaluate the chainline. If it's good, you are done. If the (front) chainring is too far inboard, buy the 107mm bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10712" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T15:50:58.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-09T15:58:05.250" Score="1" ViewCount="1661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had my bike destroyed by a car. I love cycling, and since I'm no longer a research fellow, I'm considering replacing it with a bike with great longevity (N.B. I know that until a process is perfected for constructing self-healing, Adamantium bike frames, no bike is guaranteed to survive a collision with a car). I've owned several aluminum- and steel-framed bikes in the past, and liked them all (although aluminum Canondale and GT frames had fairly thin, oversized tubes and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VO48Vr4KIc8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;once or twice got dinged on university bike racks&lt;/a&gt;, and the steel bikes &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02x8EHXPfB0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;slowly succumbed to rust&lt;/a&gt; in the rain/snow/salt of winter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these reasons, I've long held titanium frames in high regard, because I've heard anecdotally that a good titanium bike can last the longest with minimal care (i.e. it is strong and resists corrosion); however, I recently read about stainless steel frames (e.g. KVA and Reynolds 953), which are very strong and corrosion resistant (although I've heard conflicting accounts as to whether stainless is as corrosion resistant as titanium). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is the frame material with greatest longevity-- stainless steel or titanium? I've learned that in addition, there are other stainless steel frame types such as the nascent &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/news/98763-reynolds-921-stainless-steel-tubeset-revealed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reynolds 921&lt;/a&gt; (Also, do you know the manufacturer with greatest longevity? I've read that the longevity of the frame not only depends on the material, but depends even more so on the quality of construction, and it's almost certainly better to have a good aluminum bike than a titanium bike held together by gum.) And if stainless is the best, is there a recommendation between KVA and Reynolds options? I found a couple of nice tables &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/bikes-frames-forks/reynolds-953-vs-columbus-xcr-stainless-steel-303754.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;comparing physical properties online&lt;/a&gt;, but wanted to ask because such tables does not quantify corrosion resistance or the average tube thickness used for that material or the difficulty working with the material (which can manifest itself in greater likelihood of imperfections and later cracks), or any other &lt;em&gt;je ne sais quoi&lt;/em&gt; that a bike expert like you can recommend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help you can offer, and hope all is well with you and your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10859" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T16:48:29.490" Title="Tough road or touring frame/bike" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;titanium&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21093" CreationDate="2014-04-09T18:18:56.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not just the material that affects frame longevity, but the design of frames - different tubing thicknesses and geometries will last longer than others given the same materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, a lot of touring bikes (often made of steel such as Reynolds 521 or the Tange equivalent or something, since in a pinch, you can repair steel in pretty much any country and its &quot;ride quality&quot;) are essentially bomb-proof if you take care of them [the material is a neglectable factor relative to this, especially since you won't build identical bikes with different materials due to different material strengths and properties]. Some people have hundreds of thousands of miles on them with little degradation. Examples of touring bikes are things like Surly Long Haul Trucker, Trek 520, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, a lot of 70s Schwinns and 80s road bikes and what not are still running perfectly fine after replacing consumable parts (chainrings, chains cassettes, hub repackings, bottom brackets, etc.) when they were maintained reasonably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the reason why titanium lasts so long is that the people who buy titanium bikes are already extremely invested in their bicycles and take extremely good care of them. They aren't left outside, they get the top level of care, they don't abuse it, etc. so they see a very nice environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, very few if any decent bikes are going to survive taking a significant hit from a car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T18:18:56.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21093" CreationDate="2014-04-09T19:43:19.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some modern steel frames are ED coated, which inhibit rust on the inside and out. All-City does this with most of their frames, and Surly has started to do this with some new models as well (such as the ECR and straggler).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though in my experience the paint can chip a bit easier, but the ED coating below tends to remain intact.  This may be an option if you want a durable steel bike at a cheaper price.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always buy a can of FrameSaver and spray that inside the frame to protect it from rust as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T19:43:19.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1556" CreationDate="2014-04-10T03:30:39.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is the current controller built into the LED bulb has no or ineffective EMC suppression. This is extremely common in cheap equipment from unbrand named suppliers, who save costs by not going though the rigourous CE or FCC testing requirements. They also cut costs by not placing components (usually a small cap is all thats needed), and lay out the board poorly so it radiates noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of people successfully soldering a small tantalum cap onto the LED board. Best palce is as close to the control IC as possible, across the power input wires. If that does not work, another across the LED itself would help. (Careful, they are polarised) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately wrap it in a conductor (Tin foil is good), and tie it to ground to create a Faraday cage. Problem is with it tied to ground, its hard to ride far, and you need a hole to let the light out, but that lets out the RF noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better option is to buy a light that meets CE or FCC EMC standards, but they tend to be more expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T03:30:39.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15951" CreationDate="2014-04-10T05:03:41.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beware of tyres claimed on-line as having a Kevlar Belt in them. They may have just Kevlar particles blended into the tread compound to reduce wear. Maxxis Refuse is a tyre that has K2 on the tyre sidewall and a statement on the packaging/material/label that comes with the tyre as stating a Kevlar Puncture resistant Belt. I have been using Vittoria tyres for years and after trying to get some of the same quality tyres from Vittoria I have had to change to Maxxis Refuse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10868" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T05:03:41.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-10T05:23:28.243" Score="15" ViewCount="1885" Body="&lt;p&gt;The city I live in isn't especially well designed for cycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some streets with parallel parking on the sides, and in this situation it's safer to ride in the middle of the lane as to force cars to pull right over to pass, (or wait), rather than trying to squeeze past on the same lane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I get the feeling that this antagonises some motorists, even though it is the safest way to ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to ride safely, while minimising motorist antagonism? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10869" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T12:16:08.213" Title="Is there a polite way to take the centre of the road without antagonizing motorists?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21099" CreationDate="2014-04-10T05:57:43.523" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, no. The problem is that however polite you try to be you're taking the lane so you're in their way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commute takes me over a narrow one-lane-each-way bridge that's a bit of a choke point, so it's busy. It's also a raised bridge, so sight lines are very poor. Since I ride it twice a day I've had the chance to experiment with some different approaches. Normally I ride during daylight, so I'm only considering that at the moment, but I have dynamo powered lights that are always on (they don't flash).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: ride normally, take the lane&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Result: most motorists are fine, perhaps 10% follow closer than I'd like (within 3m), occasionally one will (illegally) overtake, often failing to allow the 1m separation that I like, but since I have room I simply move away from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: ride &quot;politely&quot; as close to the side of the road as I can&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Result: 5-10% of motorists try to squeeze past me, often pulling back in before they have actually done so and forcing me to brake to avoid being hit. Some of them are aggressively close and these are the only times I've been abused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: take the lane, but turn my daylight-bright blinking lights on&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Result: very few motorists follow too close, only one overtaking motorist and that was when there was clearly no oncoming traffic (still illegal, but relatively safe)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: ride on the (narrow) footpath&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Result: rather than being scared of misbehaving motorists, I'm now illegally terrorising pedestrians (of whom there are quite a few). I've only done this a couple of times, both because the road was packed with cars and I really didn't feel up to fighting for my place on the road. I don't feel good about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5: take the lane, lights on, helmet camera&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Result: sore neck, as for (3) above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've basically stopped experimenting with this because the results are, in my opinion, conclusive. I turn my lights on when I leave the bike path a couple of hundred metres before the bridge (bright flashing lights on the shared path are, IMO, rude and unnecessary), or when I leave home (the bridge is ~1km from home). So I'm always using the flashing lights when I'm on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-04-14T03:59:51.817" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T03:59:51.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21110" CreationDate="2014-04-10T06:30:50.960" Score="4" ViewCount="1500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a student pursuing BTech from new delhi. I am undertaking a project in which I am required to build a recumbent racer bike and then compete in a race. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year, I built a rear wheel drive short wheelbase recumbent bike but I found that it had an inefficient drivetrain due to which I could not win the speed event of the competition.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This year I am planning on building a front wheel drive short wheelbase recumbent bike. Since there is a problem known as heel strike in the case of fixed boom front wheel drive, I am more favoured in building a pivoting boom type front wheel drive bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this type of a bike, I am concerned about its slow speed stability. I will be required to clear slalom sections in the race for which I need easy steering at slow speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it be difficult to steer at slow speeds given the crank rotates while steering? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10870" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T22:45:51.440" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T11:16:34.840" Title="Steering in pivoting boom front wheel drive recumbent bike" Tags="&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21104" CreationDate="2014-04-10T12:36:38.187" Score="4" ViewCount="904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a new frame. My only requisite is that the frame should be able to take 700x35 wheels (the type of wheel I want).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I know if a frame is suitable or not for these kind of wheels?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4854" LastEditorUserId="4854" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T21:39:51.660" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T21:39:51.660" Title="Frame that takes 700x35" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21099" CreationDate="2014-04-10T12:41:01.333" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some tips I've gathered from being on both sides of the fence.  Since you're specifically asking riding safely &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; minimizing motorist antagonism, there are some which will work but might not appeal to your sense of justice/fairness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even higher visibility.  One way of antagonising drivers is to appear at the last moment, since they won't have time to plan ahead.  To avoid that, make sure you're aware of vehicles behind you, signal early and move out early.  You could add an additional rear light on our helmet or backpack (which might even be visible over the top of a parked cars). During the day you might want a flashing light with daylight-visible brightness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be patient. Pull over, let the cars through first, wait for a gap in the traffic. If you need to take the lane for a long stretch, look for places to pull over part way.  Maybe even get off and walk past the danger stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adapt your route to avoid hot spots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can safely pass parked cars up close if you slow right down.  I'm talking about cycling at walking pace, and ready to brake and watching closely for opening doors.  This is necessary anyway if you're filtering through stopped traffic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't take the lane when it's unnecessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're out on training ride with your mates or with a club then everything else counts double - there are more of you to start, and you have a free choice of route so much less reason to be riding on the least suitable roads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, get on with it.  If you've got no choice, you're taking the lane and you know you've got a line of traffic behind you, put your best foot forward and catch your breath when you're clear again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="523" LastEditorUserId="523" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T15:47:34.700" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T15:47:34.700" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21102" CreationDate="2014-04-10T12:50:49.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you buy a frame, they state the wheel type (it should have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;right hub spacing&lt;/a&gt; for frame, braking surface (disc/rim brake) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rim size&lt;/a&gt; for the type of wheel the frame was intended to run and the size of tire you are intending to run) and tire clearance with it. Note that the tread pattern also affects clearance - if you have very aggressive tread or studded tires, you may not be able to fit the tire even if its the size they state. If its not stated, all you can do is get the frame and test a wheel+tire combination you want to use (your LBS will be helpful for this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brands are known to have big clearance for tires, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/info_hole/faqs/can_i_fit_these_tires_on_my_surly_frame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly&lt;/a&gt; (they market it as &quot;FFF&quot; - Fatties fit fine). Generally, the type of bike also affects clearance (fat bikes &gt; mountain bikes &gt; touring road bikes or cross bikes &gt; road racers, for example). Most road racers won't clear a 700x35 tire, but most touring bikes and cross bikes will have no problem. A lot of 700c hybrids will also fit the 700x35 tire size, so the types of bikes which fit this tire size are pretty wide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T12:59:02.340" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T12:59:02.340" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21093" CreationDate="2014-04-10T16:03:22.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you prioritizing longevity above all else? Because nothing's likely to beat a cheap bike of thickwalled straight-gauge chro-moly steel (which isn't particularly vulnerable to corrosion, especially if you sand and repaint, or apply rust converter to, any nicks in the paint). Lightweight, high-end tubing is more vulnerable to picking up dings, buckling in a bike accident, or, in the case of Ti, just being &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.thepaceline.net/printthread.php?t=94977&amp;amp;pp=40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rubbed right through by a tire&lt;/a&gt;. I have a stainless steel fork that I broke an eyelet off of previously, and just irreparably bent in a minor accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, Sheldon Brown rode an 80-plus year old steel bike that &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/org/ranger.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;by all appearances was pretty neglected&lt;/a&gt; before his purchase. 1970s Schwinn road bikes were built so that their lifetime warranty would never need to be used, and you see a ton of them soldiering on through neglected maintenance and harsh urban riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd bet a simply-designed straight-gauge chromoly bike would be your best bet for something similar new. Or you can look for a vintage frame of Columbus Aelle or equivalent, or perhaps a late-80s Miyata, which were also ED-coated, and have shown their mettle by lasting 25 years already. Today's cheap aluminum bikes also likely have thickwalled tubing, and are thus probably less vulnerable to dings, and are even less vulnerable to corrosion than steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-end money in the bike market generally buys lighter weight or more refined aesthetics, as opposed to ultimate durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T16:03:22.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21107" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-10T16:49:28.113" Score="5" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could someone please tell me the key differences between the what people would call a cyclocross bike and a cyclocross-commuter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen people saying bike x is not a true cyclocross bike etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10873" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T17:11:30.670" Title="Whats the difference between a cyclocross and cyclocross-commuter" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21107" CreationDate="2014-04-10T17:03:43.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tyres :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be honest I have no idea what a cyclocross commuter is or why it would exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes are basically road bikes with V or disk brakes and tyres with some tread. What major differences do you notice from this description and bike x? The only thing I could imagine is they switch up the bars and tires to slicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T17:03:43.957" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21107" CreationDate="2014-04-10T17:11:30.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cyclocross bike is designed for cyclocross racing. This typically involves riding as quickly as possible around a muddy field.&#xA;So for a cyclocross bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightweight frame and forks, usually aluminium or carbon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More 'aggressive' riding position, with lower down bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nearly horizontal top tube, to allow carrying it over your shoulder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knobbly tyres, and plenty of mud clearance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas a commuter bike is designed more for comfort, and carrying luggage as required. So it may have: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavier frame and forks, may be made of steel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounts for fitting a pannier rack, and full mudguards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More 'relaxed' riding position, often more upright.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mostly slick tyres, often heavier, with extra puncture resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Components may be heavier, but more durable, so they last longer without much maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T17:11:30.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21101" CreationDate="2014-04-10T23:01:45.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.geek.nz/mozbike/see/misc/2001/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;built one&lt;/a&gt; and ridden a couple of commercially made ones (&lt;a href=&quot;http://cruzbike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cruzbike&lt;/a&gt; and a European one) and I have not been very impressed. That design has never done very well at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ozhpv.org.au/events/challenge/2003/2003challenge.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;our local races&lt;/a&gt;, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLOoc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FWD FWS MBB bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the prototype we built that convinced me it wasn't a design I wanted to go further with. It was quite rideable but there wasn't enough great about it to make it worth choosing that design over something more conventional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as slalom racing goes, you'll obviously be trying to build something lower and more reclined than I did, possibly like the CruzBike RAAM bike. I think it will be worse in the slalom than a fixed bottom bracket bike because pedalling while turning is harder, and at sharp turning angles is impossible. The main problem is not so much the funny angles between the pedal and your ankle, but that the inside leg is pushing out on the steering, while the outside leg is wrapped around the bike and pushing in. That makes pedalling in circles basically impossible so it is very hard on your arms (and the handlebars have to be beefed up to take the extra forces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of recumbent designs out there, even if you limit yourself to two wheels. I suggest looking around the homebuilder sites and maybe going to a traditional highracer style SWB bike. The RAAM CruzBike is effectively a highracer, but a steep seat one rather than laid back. Those are pretty easy to build and do better in slaloms than the really low lowracers do (higher CoG means there's less mass moving around the slalom cones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T23:01:45.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-11T01:18:10.660" Score="9" ViewCount="17312" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the typical life cycle of mid-range rear derailleurs assuming no accidents? More precisely, what's the average mileage after which it's better to replace it rather than doing tuning all the time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8618" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T00:55:38.383" Title="When to replace rear derailleurs" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21111" CreationDate="2014-04-11T03:13:40.947" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Derailleurs will last almost indefinitely. The jockey wheels will wear out in time (tens of thousands of km) but the rest of the mechanism shouldn't see significant wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10299" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T03:13:40.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-11T06:08:24.453" Score="8" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this Shimano Ultra groupset bike for free, all I need now for it is shifters as the carbon and rubber melted in them and the original seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now I am wondering if I can get away with it, I don't want the top/down tubes to brake off the head!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9ex3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable adjuster on the down tube is a bit melted on this one if you zoom in:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s0UN3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/skSh6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything works great (Not to say I know if there's a good amount of lube in the head tube but it turns fine)  but what do you guy think is it too dodgy to keep aluminium that has all that darkening round the welds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a lot will say biff it and I should at least get a new stem but please give me some disclaimer-ed thoughts for a proper like myself just wanting a bike that has better gears than Shimano tourney!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what concerned me: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/repairing-fire-damaged-bikes-689507.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/repairing-fire-damaged-bikes-689507.html&lt;/a&gt; They tell the guy to ditch a bike with no viable damage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be interesting for example to know what temperature it takes to melt the old bike seat completely of the metal guides and curl the shifter carbon leavers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T05:56:51.433" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T13:23:20.337" Title="How bad is this fire damaged alloy frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-11T08:49:36.143" Score="11" ViewCount="3595" Body="&lt;p&gt;In another bicycle discussion forum I encountered a thread about possibility to damage carbon frame by sitting on top tube while stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see some sense in it, as generally tube walls are a lot thinner in the middle to save weight and are not designed for this kind of load. The problem is, I have not seen any warnings from manufacturers about this habit, nor there are stickers on the frame suggesting to not do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is - Is this a real problem, should I change my habits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXacx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trash talk before start&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATED: There is one local person who does carbon repairs, he claims that he has repaired multiple frames which had been damaged this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T11:23:20.417" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T17:25:23.937" Title="Should I avoid sitting on top tube on my carbon bike?" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21114" CreationDate="2014-04-11T09:13:54.347" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had or heard of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.velominati.com&lt;/a&gt;, one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule #80 // Always be Casually Deliberate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waiting for others pre-ride or at the start line pre-race, you must be tranquilo, resting on your top tube &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/content/Reader%20Galleries/21285881044/bettiniphoto_0059495_1_full_600.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;thusly&lt;/a&gt;. This may be extended to any time one is aboard the bike, but not riding it, such as at stop lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While some of what they say is tongue in cheek, this one is not. Most people I know do it, and have done for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T09:13:54.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21111" CreationDate="2014-04-11T13:40:42.330" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My main road bike has campagnolo gran sport derailleurs.  That was mid range when I bought it back in 1980.  Probably over 100000 miles by now.  I have replaced cables and jockey wheels a few times but it still shifts great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T13:40:42.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21123" CreationDate="2014-04-11T15:55:23.850" Score="7" ViewCount="3777" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife wants a high-quality commuting bike (riding almost an hour each way five days a week). However, she wants it to be compatible with skirt-wearing and, as a result, refuses to have a frame with a normal top-bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there even such a thing as a high-quality commuting frame with the low top-bar of a women's bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10881" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T14:18:49.567" Title="High-quality commuting bike with &quot;women's&quot; frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21117" CreationDate="2014-04-11T17:17:27.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing is style. There are the conventional &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_l.html#ladys&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;step through/lady frames&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k88gl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stepthrough&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_m.html#mixte&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mixties&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9qHSw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mixtie&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which have the same sort of clearance as step through frames but are stronger. Then there are women specific geometry bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, both mixtes and step through bikes are inferior to the standard diamond frame due to reduced strength and stiffness, increased weight and less mounting points for stuff. (Of course, you need to do reasonable comparisons in this case). And they became a lot less common once people stopped riding bikes frequently in skirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trek among other major manufacturers offer women's geometry bikes (Trek marks theirs WSD, Specialized uses slightly different names, and Giant uses LivGiant or something). These are usually variations of the corresponding men's model with a lower top tube. Probably not good for a full length skirt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soma also sells some mixtie frames (their buena vista, for example), which you could spec up at your LBS. Velo orange also sold one until quite recently it seems, but if you dig through the manufacturer's websites, you'll find things like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2012/archive/trek/belleville_wsd/#/us/en/archive-model/details?url=us/en/bikes/2012/archive/trek/belleville_wsd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek Belleville WSD&lt;/a&gt;, Specialized's Globe brand, etc. Rivendell (a high quality boutique manufacturer) sells their Betty Foy as a frame set, but it is a quite expensive one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is really a shopping question (and is likely to be closed because of that), we should note that your bike shop can help you with bikes available in your market, along with the important bike fit problem. If you ask them for a mixte frame (or even a step through frame) and tell them what its being used for, they can likely find something for you or order a quality frame and build it up with other parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, note that many frames from the 70s or 80s are still just fine - if you look at your local used market for a mixte or step through frame/bicycle from that era, get it checked over and tuned up at your LBS (which may involve replacing a bunch of parts on it, admittedly), you can likely get a pretty good quality frame for cheaper than buying one new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, convince your wife to wear pants to cycle to work (if you're cycling 2 hours a day, this is likely to be more comfortable anyway) and use a diamond frame, and then change at work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T17:17:27.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21117" CreationDate="2014-04-11T17:20:09.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://publicbikes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Public bikes&lt;/a&gt; - has several frame styles with step through design&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.linusbike.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Linus bikes&lt;/a&gt; - has several frame styles with step through design&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/buena-vista-complete-bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Soma Buena Vista&lt;/a&gt; - a nice mixte frame style, available as a frame or complete bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May want to consider adding fenders with a skirt guard if she frequently rides with a longer skirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T17:20:09.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-11T17:20:20.340" Score="3" ViewCount="3925" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike frame is carbon and it recently got a small chip. It's about the size of a pinky fingernail in size. Should I do anything to treat the chip to help prevent it from getting worse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the chip, hopefully this helps narrow things down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u7rna.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of chip![][1]&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10882" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-05-14T20:39:06.133" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T20:39:06.133" Title="Protecting carbon bike frame after a small chip?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31543" CreationDate="2014-04-11T20:30:34.287" Score="2" ViewCount="891" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is embarrassing for me to say the number of tubes I have destroyed removing the chuck. Are there techniques or adapters I am missing? Or do I have a defective chuck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10883" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T10:53:34.143" Title="remove &quot;wrench force&quot; floor bike pump from the schrader valve" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;schrader&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21117" CreationDate="2014-04-11T20:36:58.293" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you and she are willing to throw down on a custom, I can personally recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://violetcrowncycles.com/&quot;&gt;Violet Crown Cycles&lt;/a&gt;. Otherwise, consider the Rivendell Betty Foy/Ivan Gomez or building up a Soma Buena Vista... but she might actually do fine picking up a mass-market step-through that fits well (Electra, Jamis, and Trek have models worth looking at) and upgrading the components as desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a ride that long, I would actually recommend against a Dutch bike; something speedier would likely be better. Believe it or not, an upright posture is not necessarily ideal; I find that a more forward-leaned posture keeps long skirts from blowing back and up in headwinds. (There are other ways to deal with this. The headband-round-one-leg trick works.) Avoid crank-forward/&quot;flat foot&quot; designs for this reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will disagree with Batman above regarding durability. Though I've seen that claim many a time, I have yet to see anyone with a horror story regarding a mixte or step-through frame falling apart or anything similarly catastrophic... or even bothersome, for that matter. I've gotten along just fine with both my step-throughs; if they flex more, I don't notice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My somewhat ornery but experience-driven suggestions for skirt-friendly bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fenders (minimally a rear fender)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain guard. Chains like to eat skirts, as well as deposit grime on them. (Consider a belt drive, rare though they are -- lack of grime is one of the things I dearly love about mine.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disc brakes and/or a skirt guard on the rear wheel. Rear rim brakes LOVE to eat skirts; I lost two dresses to my Electra Townie in my early days with it because of this. (Check Etsy for aftermarket fabric skirt guards.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Internal gear hub if she likes really long, full skirts. A skirt-eating derailleur is a long shot, but depending on the hanger configuration, it could happen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decent carrying capacity. I don't mind carrying a messenger bag while in a dress, but she might, especially on that long a ride... and even I (fifteen minutes door to door) sometimes sling mine into a pannier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the bike she picks only has one set of braze-ons for water-bottle cages (which is common for step-throughs), I recommend adding a handlebar cage mount; these are easy to find aftermarket (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/water-bottles-cages/vo-handlebar-to-water-bottle-cage-mount.html&quot;&gt;this one by Velo Orange&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for bike-friendly skirts and dresses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pencil skirts longer than just above the knee are Right Out. Forget it. She'll tear it to pieces trying to pedal, no matter how it's gored or slit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shorter skirts can work, but wear bike shorts underneath. (If she's going to do that, though, why not just wear the shorts and change into the skirt at work?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full skirts work fine if she avoids skirt-eating chains and rim brakes. (The Victorians did it -- so can we!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maxi-style straight dresses work fine if the material has some stretch, such that knees don't leave unsightly &quot;dents&quot; in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Camisoles, for any dress neckline that isn't reasonably close-fitting. If she prefers an upright ride, this isn't necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! I'm not sure the perfect bike for this use-case exists in the mass market (that's why I went custom), but she ought to be able to find something that doesn't compromise too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastEditorUserId="3631" LastEditDate="2014-04-11T20:43:29.527" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T20:43:29.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17864" CreationDate="2014-04-11T22:48:53.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very skeptical that an internal fault in the hub is causing the external mounting of it to loosen up... unless you are experiencing frequent total rear wheel lockup and skidding, maybe. I have a SRAM P5 hub that I built into an old mountain bike myself. Originally I ignored SRAM's torque instructions for the rear axle nuts and just tightened them by judgement. I have rebuilt car engines this way in the past, with no problems. But after having my rear wheel loosen up, I got out the SRAM specs and a torque wrench. Let me tell you, they specify cranking those nuts A LOT tighter than I would have thought, or dared to do without the torque wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also skeptical that nobody in Denmark fixes internal-gear hubs. Never been to Denmark, but thought bikes with such hubs were very popular out that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T22:48:53.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8368" CreationDate="2014-04-11T23:03:59.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Supposedly I just have to leave the shifter in position 7 and then assemble the outer part...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to SRAM, the way to adjust it is to shift from 5th gear downward into 4th (which is the middle, 1:1 ratio gear) and then adjust the cable end until the clickbox marks are aligned. I have the similar P5 hub, and it shifts great for me when adjusted in the middle gear this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know anything about the results of shifting while pedalling, as was brought up. To me that is like shifting my car without using the clutch... I suspect the result will not be good, and don't want to find out I'm correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10884" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T23:03:59.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-12T01:02:48.770" Score="1" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have managed to remove the threaded locking mechanism of this bottom bracket. However, I can't get the bracket out. I have tried to just bang it out, but it doesn't move. I don't know what else to do. ideas? help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6PwkM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10885" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2014-04-12T01:48:56.677" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T06:18:39.043" Title="How do I remove a bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-12T01:08:06.947" Score="3" ViewCount="1212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been cycling on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centurion_%28bicycle%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Centurion&lt;/a&gt; Pro Tour that was constructed sometimes in the 1980's - probably late 1980's, but still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works great.  It coasts downhill far faster than my hybrid, it doesn't weigh very much and I have definitely gotten perfomance results from riding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, it is &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; from the 1980s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It kind of forces you to ride in an areo position.  Once, I felt a pull in my back when I was riding up a hill (the topographic lines are very close together on that thing), and it took me days before I could ride again.  Sometimes, I feel it a little in my elbows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth it to look at a &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; bike?  My budget is really only 500USD or so.  Or am I just not adjusting it properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's a narrow question on the fact of it, but I can't be the only guy with a decent ancient bike who would like some opinions one acquiring a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike shop told me to I'd benefit from a new one, but hey - they are trying to sell bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T20:39:00.170" Title="1980's bike vs New(er) Models? (Should one stay with an ancient bike?)" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13025" CreationDate="2014-04-12T05:00:47.767" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opinion is to make sure your bearings are still okay and that you are not missing any.&#xA;If not put grease in the area of the bearing. Put the cranks back on and tighten it as much as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10887" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T05:00:47.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21126" CreationDate="2014-04-12T06:18:39.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the thread on the exposed cup. That tells you which way you need to turn the cup to get it out (there are multiple standards here, and one of the key differences is that some use left hand threads instead of the usual right hand). It looks to me as though the top of that cop should rotate to the right to remove it, in which case it is a left hand thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to fit a spanner onto the raised part on the cup nearest the camera in that photo. Preferably a large spanner with nice sharp edges on the jaws, since the flats are not very deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other side possibly has a couple of holes rather than more flats like this side. In which case you can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/park-tool-spa6c-adjustable-pin-spanner-prod15088/?geoc=au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pin spanner&lt;/a&gt; or a hammer and chisel to tap it out. Or, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;as Sheldon suggests&lt;/a&gt;, just put a big bolt through and use that to turn the cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10584" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T06:18:39.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21127" CreationDate="2014-04-12T08:38:04.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I suggest that you go to your local bike shop and see if you can test ride a modern bike.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Daniel says $500 will not get you far. A test ride of a couple of bikes at different price points will help you decide. You may find that your &quot;retro&quot; bike is OK after all. Or maybe that it never did fit you properly. But a new bike could be 5kg lighter than what you have!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now is a good time to do it, because it's Spring there and the shops will have a good range. If you decide to buy, then you can save for the next six months :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T08:38:04.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-12T10:43:50.090" Score="1" ViewCount="921" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally I bought my new hydraulic disc brakes (Shimano M-446) and installed it on my bike . It was a little difficult to adjust the calipers  , because the space between the pads is smaller than on my previous brakes (Hayes Stroker Ryde). But finally I had managed to align them properly and went for a test ride . When I sat on my bike I heard the rotors rubbing but only on cornering and turns . I got out of it and rotated the wheel but everything was OK when. What a mystery ? Why the rotors are rubbing only when I am sitting on the bike ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastEditorUserId="7840" LastEditDate="2014-04-12T10:56:59.037" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T01:46:26.627" Title="Rubbing disc brake caliper" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21127" CreationDate="2014-04-12T16:02:13.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A new road bike won't be any more comfortable and will probably put you in an even more aero position. If you still have all original parts, you might want to get new stem, bars, levers, and hoods which will make it more comfortable to ride on the hoods, and the new bars are wider which is also easier on the hands. A stem that angles up a bit can also help with the posture. All this Will come in much cheaper then buying a whole new bike, you might even want to get a modern wheel set. Probably the best way to get a nice comfortable bike for your money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T16:02:13.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21117" CreationDate="2014-04-12T16:18:52.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Women's frame&quot; generally means a frame that's been modified to better suit many women's bodies with a shorter top tube, narrower handlebars, etc. &quot;Step-through&quot; describes what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend giving &quot;Dutch style&quot; bikes a try. Workcycles bikes are popular and I think a model like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.workcycles.com/home-products/handmade-city-bicycles/workcycles-secret-service-ladies-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Secret Service&lt;/a&gt; is good for illustrating what attributes make a good commuter bike for wearing skirts. The chain guard and skirt/coat guard will help keep clothes from getting dirty and greasy, and fenders are key for staying dry. (Personally, I'd get longer fenders than the one shown on that bike, though). You can mount panniers on the rack or add a basket. The step-through design prevents you from flashing people when mounting/dismounting, but not from wind. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eleanorsnyc.com/products/bird-industries-bicycle-skirt-garter-clip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;skirt garter&lt;/a&gt; will help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if serious hill-climbing is needed, I'd stay away from step-through frames and look more at the slanted-tube models mentioned by others, as the upright posture doesn't make for good hill-climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your wife ends up with a diamond frame bike, she can wear light leggings under it for modesty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T16:18:52.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21131" CreationDate="2014-04-12T17:39:03.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be some play in the axles. Lift the wheel and try to wiggle. Another explanation might be a 'soft' fork. Also check the tightening of the quick releases, a quarter turn of the nut might bring some change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T17:39:03.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21127" CreationDate="2014-04-12T17:46:03.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A new seat post (carbon with more flex instead of metal) or a new saddle works wonders. You might also raise the handlebar and/or shorten the stem. If you can put on fatter tyres, like 28 or 25mm instead of 23mm will bring a noticeable increase of comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastEditorUserId="10401" LastEditDate="2014-04-12T19:44:24.843" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T19:44:24.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13025" CreationDate="2014-04-12T20:38:55.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's most likely is a loose pedal bolt. Check it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case you have a problem in the bottom bracket. &#xA;Check this vieo. It's very educational.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/VXQA4kNmhPA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastActivityDate="2014-04-12T20:38:55.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2014-04-13T09:36:29.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 29er cube mountain bike and put light weight mavic crossmax wheels with slick continental sports contact tires and changed the forks for rigid carbon forks and it made a massive diference, kept the disc brakes and gears set is shimano XT, I just dont like road bikes and i can ride this bike fast, you should see the look on road bike riders faces when I over take them on a mountain bike, they hate it! Mind you I am a strong rider and would say that 90% of riding fast is down to the riders strenth and not the bike. I did a 120 mile ride last summer and it is so comfortable to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10894" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T09:36:29.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20946" CreationDate="2014-04-14T02:45:09.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After disassembling the front assembly, as per Carel's and Davorin Ruševljan's suggestions, I found out that the fork tube (going through the headtube) had a crack in it, which is most probably what was making the creaking noise (see picture below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LJZQD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7793" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T02:45:09.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21142" CreationDate="2014-04-14T03:59:12.287" Score="5" ViewCount="814" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name in English of the part that has a set of dented wheels and goes attached to the center of the back wheel of a bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zof1Om.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the name(s) in English of the tool that allows to remove these dented wheels so that I can replace a broken spoke?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had bicycles all my life, but now that I left my country of origin buying tools and parts using a language that is not my mother tongue is a bit challenging sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If anyone can provide the same names in French that would be even better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10897" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T15:17:19.577" Title="Name in English of different parts and tools" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21141" CreationDate="2014-04-14T04:05:03.060" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index&quot;&gt;terminology index&lt;/a&gt; here that should help you with the more common names. Please feel free to suggest anything that is missing (we do try to keep adding things that are missing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it doesn't currently have the things you're asking about. The part you've shown is a freewheel, and the tool is called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-fr-1-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;freewheel remover&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strike&gt;You also need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/sprocket-remover-chain-whip-sr-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;chain whip&lt;/a&gt; to hold it in place while using that tool.&lt;/strike&gt; (edit: no you don't). Note that there are several different types of freewheel removal tools because there are different types of freewheels. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-and-freewheel-removal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog post&lt;/a&gt;, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGk48.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;freewheel remover&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, modern bikes tend to use cassettes rather than freewheels. The difference is explained &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here by Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; and here's a picture from his site showing the important bits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hueix.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;freewhel vs cassette&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T06:03:58.373" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21114" CreationDate="2014-04-14T04:43:28.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber is strong. Really strong. The kinds of loads that your frame sees when you hit a pothole is far bigger than what you would get sitting on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T04:43:28.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21121" CreationDate="2014-04-14T06:05:08.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effects of the chip depend a bit on &quot;how much&quot; was chipped away. Generally it is always better to seal the chip. I have seen water getting under the protective paint/carbon layer and the area slowly expanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chip is small I've heard people using nailpolish with good success. For anything a bit bigger, I would probably bring it into a carbon repair place and have them check that the carbon is still structurally sound. They can also repair the chip more professionally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10900" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T06:05:08.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21146" CreationDate="2014-04-14T07:28:40.590" Score="8" ViewCount="871" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a one week trip in nature, with bikes. Daily routes are to be about 60km with 2000m total elevation change per day (climb, then descend). The group is of 2-5 people. Weather is summer (maybe down to 5 centigrade at night, not sure about rain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how can we pack smart, so that we can sleep on the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the bike a multi-tool, tube patches, 1 extra tube, quicklink, pump and chain lube. Anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For food: about 3.5kg of food per rider, or half of that if we pass through mountain huts. &lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/1609/a-list-of-suitable-foods-for-a-long-hike&quot;&gt;Options&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the real question is about sleeping gear. Sleeping bags are bulky and heavy. Here probably the smart move is to get a summer down bag. &lt;strong&gt;But what about the sleeping mat? Those are light but very bulky.&lt;/strong&gt; I am afraid that tying one of the standard foam ones to the backpack will not only create air drag on the descents, but will also catch on vegetation adjacent to the trail. Unfortunately, they are also quite essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas how can we pull this off? How do we carry functional sleeping equipment and still not be too encumbered to ride? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:48:00.067" LastActivityDate="2020-08-06T05:42:55.997" Title="Minimum mountain bike trekking/touring equipment" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21145" CreationDate="2014-04-14T08:51:57.390" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could consider a self-inflating mat &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/mattresses/fast-and-light/category&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(e.g. thermarest)&lt;/a&gt; though when I looked at them they were expensive and heavier than my alternative: A foam mat only needs to reach from you shoulders to your hips if it's not too cold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might then be able to wrap it round your top tube, because there would be a lot less to fit in there - and it would makes shouldering the bike more pleasant.  You can also lash a sleeping mat vertically to the backpack reducing drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to plan your water more than anything though, especially if you're relying on dehydrated food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also spread tools etc. across riders - you don't need &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; pumps and &lt;em&gt;2n&lt;/em&gt; tyre levers for &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; riders.  However you have to balance this with the possibility of tools being broken or lost -- if they're essential and can't be improvised you need more than one in the group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2014-04-14T09:10:32.737" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T09:10:32.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-14T12:03:22.090" Score="7" ViewCount="10786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old 1950's English bicycle with cotter-pin style bottom bracket like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eQwlB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the cotter pins fail fairly regularly and are hard to replace correctly. I was wondering if it's possible to replace them with a modern bottom bracket without having to do welding/major work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10904" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T14:15:25.600" Title="How to replace old style cotter-pin bottom bracket with a modern one?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21147" CreationDate="2014-04-14T12:46:13.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did this just last year. It's not a hard upgrade. You'll need to replace the bottom bracket and crankset.  With a bike of that age, depending on the make, it might be difficult to find a modern bottom bracket that can fit your bike.  Take it to the local bike store to determine the shell width, or measure with your current one. This requires being pretty precise, as there are various standards and they all vary by only a couple of millimeters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a crank set that matches the number chainrings you want (looks like only 1 from the pictures), and is compatible with the new bottom bracket and you are set.  Square taper is a good choice for upgrading old bikes as it's cheap and ubiquitous, and works great.  A bottom bracket tool for putting the new cups in is quite inexpensive, as is tool for tightening the crank arms.  You might already have something sufficient for this as it isn't a special tool, usually just a larger allen key, although you'll need a lot of torque, so one that fits on a socket wrench is advised.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are unsure about doing it yourself, your local bike shop can do it in 15-30 minutes, and shouldn't charge too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike wasn't as old as yours, but I'm pretty sure English bikes from the 1950s still used either standard 68mm British bottom brackets, or in the case of a Raleigh, a slightly different proprietary size. 68 mm is still the standard so you're in luck if you have that size.  I'm pretty sure the Raleigh size is still available as they were quite a popular make of bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-04-14T13:01:58.043" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T13:01:58.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21154" CreationDate="2014-04-14T13:16:31.530" Score="8" ViewCount="871" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally what should the tension be for spokes in wheels built up from scratch? For the front wheel? Should the tension be different for drive-side/non-drive-side spokes in the rear? Should tension run differently for different cycling applications E.G. mtb, cyclocross, pavement, touring, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T11:50:02.293" Title="Spoke Tension Guidelines" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;tension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14188" CreationDate="2014-04-14T13:53:04.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is that SRAM is one of the fastest wearing chains out there. Campagnolo C9 has been in my experience much better and works perfectly with 8-speed Shimano cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, unless you know you'll be riding on sharp gravel and broken glass, the Marathon XRs could be changed to something that rolls better. Basic Schwalbe Marathons and Panaracer Paselas are known to be pretty durable. As said above, narrower is not necessarily better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T13:53:04.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21127" CreationDate="2014-04-14T13:59:12.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been testing a 1984's Centurion Elite road bike, but I'm more a crosscountry and downhill rider, so a the beguinning I had a lot of discomfort, and could not ride for longer than 20 minutes, while in an XC bike I can ride for 7 hours straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few tries, it became obvious that's it was a fit problem so I moved the saddle a little towards the front and angled the handlebar a little upwards so the hoods where more comfortable to reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those two changes I am now able to use the bike for as long as I want. At least no discomfort appeared on my 2 hour training urban rides. In my first attempts to ride it I suffered pain in the back of the neck and the lower back. None has reappeared with the new configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding performance I have no complaints about the bike, and Im able to keep up with some roders tha use new road bikes. The only thing I miss is being able to change gears without moving my hands from the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my conclusion is, you either continue saving to increase your budget, or use some of your actual budget to upgrade your current ride, including re fitting it. I wouldn't advise to spend too much on it either, just a few components to make it more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness of my anecdote, I add that my position on the road bike while on the flats feels almost the same as riding on my XC bikes (same distance from saddle to straight part of handlebar) I'm 30 years old and been riding XC for 14 years, road for 3 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2014-04-14T14:08:14.440" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T14:08:14.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21147" CreationDate="2014-04-14T14:15:25.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you can get the bottom bracket out (this may be non-trivial), Velo Orange among other companies make &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/bottom-brackets/grand-cru-threadless-bottom-brackets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;universal bottom brackets&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote Velo Orange:&#xA;&quot;Grand Cru threadless bottom brackets fit most frames, even those with Swiss threading. And they work on frames with damaged BB shells, even if the existing threading is totally stripped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike previous attempts at threadless BBs, this new design is &quot;internally expanding&quot;. As the adjustable cup is tightened, the silver sleeve (see photo) is pushed up the tapered alloy cups, expanding and locking in the BB. This differs from older designs, like the Mavic, that pressed in from the outside and would sometimes slip. Installation requires only a traditional-style BB spanner or a pin wrench. The BB shell does not require chamfering or facing; simply slip the BB into the shell and tighten. It is easily removed and existing threads may be reused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the other Grand Cru BBs, these have sealed cartridge bearings, so they require no servicing and should have a very long life. Taper is JIS. So far, we have tried these on British, French, and Swiss BB shells and they work perfectly. Customers report that they also work in Raleigh frames with a 71mm wide BB shell. These BB's won't work on mountain bikes, as their standard width (73mm) is too wide for the shell to expand. They do not work on Italian threaded BB shells because those have a wider ID.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to note is, if you can find the threading type, Phil Wood probably makes an appropriate bottom bracket for you. You'll likely be stuck with JIS for the crank, but theres plenty of new lower end cranksets or older higher end cranksets which use it. Note that Phil Wood is pricey, but if anyone makes the right BB cups and BB, it is them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is some information from Sheldon Brown on the case of vintage Raleighs - he notes that you can combine Phil Wood cups with a Shimano BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A last dig option is to re-tap the threads for the bb to something modern, but this may be relatively difficult (and wont be super strong). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T14:15:25.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21149" CreationDate="2014-04-14T15:34:51.587" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rim manufacturer should have this information.  It depends a lot on the number of spokes, if the holes have eyelets (metal grommets) and the material of the rim.  Lower spoke count wheels need more tension.  Generally eyeleted wheels can handle more tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for symmetrical tension, that also depends.  If the wheel is asymmetrical then your tension must be asymmetrical as well.   Most multispeed rear wheels are asymmetrical.  Many front disc (mtb, cyclocross, and even road wheels) are asymmetrical, although some are not.  &quot;Quick Spoke&quot; for the iPhone is a spoke length calculator that also provides relative tension information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR Check with the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10905" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-04-14T21:45:52.413" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T21:45:52.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-14T19:27:34.200" Score="3" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to get hold of some figures for accident rates where either, ideally just cyclists or, just general road users &amp;amp; pedestrians, are involved in accidents (or reported near misses) because a motorist/cyclist has been using a mobile phone. I would like (if possible) to have information regarding Sweden and other countries where cell phone use is not banned, and in countries where it has been banned such as the UK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a cyclist who lived in the UK and now lives in Sweden I notice a considerable difference in my &quot;near miss&quot; rate, and the vast majority of my near misses here come from phone users (and bus drivers, but that was the same in GB!). If I can get some statistics I am going to look in to campaigning my local politician and having cycling friends in the area note down their near miss rates (how many kilometers per evasive action).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of the sort of nice stats I'm looking for: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;xx% of accidents involving cyclists in &lt;em&gt;Sweden&lt;/em&gt; are suspected or proven to be due to one or more parties involved using a cell phone at the time of the accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since banning the use of cell phones the overall rate of accidents involving cyclists has decreased by xx% in the &lt;em&gt;UK&lt;/em&gt;, and those involving cell phones has decreased from aa% to bb%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T00:48:44.253" Title="Figures on accidents involving cyclists where motorists are using cell/mobile phones" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21114" CreationDate="2014-04-15T00:14:01.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to seat at right spot of your but. There is a big vein on back side of the upper leg can be squeezed. It can cause a problem with blood circulation before race or workout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5932" LastEditorUserId="5932" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T17:25:23.937" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T17:25:23.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21131" CreationDate="2014-04-15T01:46:26.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much do you weigh? What fork do you have? What wheel set do you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be one or more of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;QR/Axle isn't tight enough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotors aren't tightened to proper spec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calipers aren't tightened to proper spec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the fork is flexing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the wheel is flexing &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a heavier rider (+/- 230lbs) and I ran into this problem early on with XC/trail spec wheels and forks to the point it really held me back from progressing as a rider. If you are more than say 190lbs you need to approach bike/component selection differently. Remember: cheap, light, strong - pick 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10903" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T01:46:26.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21145" CreationDate="2014-04-15T08:39:27.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think first of all you should ready to adequate food and water, bring to a common repair tools, of course, a bicycle light is also very necessary, so you can ensure your driving safety at night, and finally you have to prepare a sleeping bag to sleep at night , there is an important point is that not to take things too much, otherwise you will be very hard on the road!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10839" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-04-18T12:20:57.563" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T12:20:57.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-15T09:10:59.343" Score="1" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this fork available: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rst.com.tw/en/ProductInfo.aspx?PID=14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RST Gila T8&lt;/a&gt; (120mm travel option).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 80mm XCT fork on a 2-year old &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/myka&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Myka&lt;/a&gt; is getting worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering installing the fork. &lt;a href=&quot;http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/what-lenght-forks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; it is explained that fork travel is not important. What is important is axle to crown length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am unable to find that information. What is the Gila Axle-to-Crown length? What is the maximum permitted for the Myka? Does it depend on the style of riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T17:17:55.447" Title="Can a 120mm fork be mounted on Specialized Myka?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21164" CreationDate="2014-04-15T11:40:05.813" Score="4" ViewCount="1388" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.firefoxbikes.com/BikeDetails.aspx?BikeId=53&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;My bike&lt;/a&gt; has no rear suspension. So I thought of putting a suspension seat-post on it. Unfortunately the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suncrossbikes.com/SparesCat.php?SparesCat_id=31&amp;amp;SparesCatName=Seat%20Post&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;only suspension post available in my city&lt;/a&gt; is a 25.4 mm one. I have added some scrap metal to fix it for now. But it's still a little wobbly. What is the best way to do this ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgJAW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8135" LastActivityDate="2021-05-03T08:26:03.737" Title="How can I mount a 25.4 mm seat-post on a frame that needs a 27.2 mm seat-post" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21163" CreationDate="2014-04-15T11:53:48.933" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are seatpost shims available for a few dollars. You should get them easily in your local shop or online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use an aluminum shim in one of my bikes with exactly the dimensions you need, it works flawlessly and looks very clean. I got it for about 3.50 € (5$).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AAo2x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastEditorUserId="7279" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T12:10:45.980" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T12:10:45.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21117" CreationDate="2014-04-15T13:07:10.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without budget/loading amount it's difficult to answer, as for light loads a traditional mixte will be OK, but for heavier loads a touring bike really is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thorn cycles does step through &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-step-through-frames-dept742/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;touring frames&lt;/a&gt;...these are not cheap however they're a small UK company that has made touring bikes for yoinks so reliability and comfort are guaranteed. Comes with all the braze-ons, so you can put on mudguards, bottle cages, front loaders...the works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dawescycles.com/product/karakum-ladies/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dawes Cycles&lt;/a&gt; is another option. The disadvantage of a higher more Dutch style bike as the linked one is wind drag but she can wear shorts and carry lots of goods too and the bike comes with everything on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10910" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T14:18:49.567" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T14:18:49.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21145" CreationDate="2014-04-15T14:41:15.750" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question depends heavily on the infrastructure that is available to you, and the highest level of mechanical ability in your party.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another pointed out, you will want at least two pumps, multi-tools, etc.&#xA;  My wife and I do pretty challenging mtb tours with BOB trailers. We generally bring the following (subject to modification depending on how present bike shops might be). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;for disk brakes, at least one set of extra brake pads for each type used (e.g. my wife as avid, I have deore xt, so we bring one pair each).  When riding with extra weight, it's shocking how fast brakes can wear away.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;two spare spokes for each size used.  These can be taped to your bicycle frames, so they won't affect your packing at all.  Breaking a spoke can end a trip if you don't have a spare.  At least learn the theory of how to do a field repair.  It doesn't have to be perfectly true, but you want to be able to at least roll into a repair.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;at least one spare tube of each size in use (you want patches too, but you may need the spare for a big cut).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;duct tape. You'd be amazed how this can help you. I've fixed panniers, packs, rain-gear, sleeping bags, and patched a ripped tire.  This can save a trip.  Make a small roll for yourself, you don't have to take a gigantic one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider your water needs.  Water purification can be a life saver.  My wife and I use a steri-pen, which we love.  What you need depends on where you are going. When we rode across Albania, my wife and I brought a ten litre sack of water with us, which may very well have saved our lives on a couple of occasions.  In the alps we just brought 2 litre camel-backs and filled them up at the many opportunities.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bike lights are a good tip and will be useful at camp time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are sleeping indoors, you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; bring bed rolls.  Depending on the weather you might be able to do without a sleeping bag, but an insulating layer between you and the ground is vital.  I can't stress this enough.  Therma-rest makes small, light and highly packable bedrolls.  Cheap foam rolls are an alternative, and are light but  bulky.  On the plus side however they are virtually indestructible.  You can roll them up and strap them to the outside of your backpack.  At a bare minimum bring enough for your core (neck to thighs).  You'll sleep for crap if you don't bring something to put between you and the ground.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A first aid kit.  REI sells nice, small, packable, reasonably well fitted kits for a reasonable price.  At the very least, bring some bandaids (for blisters), some sunscreen, some painkillers, and some antiseptic.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend bringing some kind of emergency contact gear.  If you are somewhere with cell reception, a cell phone is enough.  If not you should consider bringing flares or some such.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Saddle cream.  Unless you are routinely doing that kind of mileage now, you'll be really happy to have this.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10911" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T00:22:57.193" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:22:57.193" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21162" CreationDate="2014-04-15T16:57:07.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most 120mm forks have a similar axle to crown height and it's more or less 40mm higher than the axle to crown height of typical 80mm fork. There are of course differences between models, but not really enough to matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically hard tail frames are designed around a range of fork sizes. 120mm would be long for an XC frame that came with an 80mm fork. I doubt the manufacturer would recommend this, however lot's of people do those kinds of swaps without significant issues. It is pushing the design limits of the frame, and if you're pushing the limits of what the bike can do, you may run into problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That big a change will affect the geometry and handling of the bike significantly. It will slacken the head angle, raise the front handlebars and also rotate the seat tube backwards. These are all great if you want to go downhill fast, they are all bad if you want to climb uphill fast. It will also lengthen the wheelbase and make the bike a bit more difficult to handle in tight corners at slow speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting the longer fork at a lower sag value ( i.e. 25% vs the more typical 20% recommended for XC use ) will help limit some of the geometry changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T16:57:07.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21162" CreationDate="2014-04-15T17:17:55.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct, axle to crown is the key measurement for selecting a replacement fork. Unfortunately, it is often difficult to find this measurement. When searching for this information axle to crown can be listed many different ways on user forums such as axle to crown, axle-to-crown, A2C, A to C, ATC etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good place to start for bigger brands forks: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=78006&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pinkbike - Official Axle To Crown Heights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular situation I would contact RST to get the A2C for the fork and I would contact Specialized to find out what A2Cs are acceptable and covered by the warranty. This would be the safest route. Or another option is go to a bike shop for advice. They will find this information for you and help make a recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality you can put what ever fork you want on a bike, it's up to you but you accept the risk of injury if you go outside the manufacturer's spec. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else to consider is, just because you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; put a larger/smaller fork on a bike doesn't mean you should. It can have an adverse effect on the bike's handling characteristics by changing the geometry (head tube angle, head tube height, wheelbase, standover, seat tube angle etc).    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10903" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T17:17:55.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21141" CreationDate="2014-04-15T18:46:39.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a modern bicycle, it's a cassette in English. And the tools are a chain whip and a lockout ring remover or cassette remover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chain Reaction&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wiggle&lt;/a&gt; it is possible to choose French for the language, even if you are in England (I do the opposite in France ;-) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10914" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T15:17:19.577" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T15:17:19.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-15T19:00:02.940" Score="8" ViewCount="3911" Body="&lt;p&gt;is there a specific way that bike builders build mounts/eyelets for racks for panniers and eyelets that hold fenders? I'm specifically thinking about eyelets on the rear dropouts. I know that if a manufacturer doesn't want a rack at all he or she won't put mounts on the seatstays, but is there any structural difference between the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T12:56:11.277" Title="difference between rack mounts and fender mounts?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-15T20:40:24.587" Score="6" ViewCount="5434" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 200 miles on my LaPierre X Control 229 equipped with basic Avid hydraulic disks, I can hear the front wheel disk ventilation slots grinding through the caliper when I brake moderately! (Shimano 160 disk). I did the normal thing of re-aligning the caliper; slacken bolts, apply brakes hard and re-tighten bolts. This made no difference. Should I be changing pads to organic? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10915" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T08:01:18.530" Title="odd noise on new disc brakes" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21171" CreationDate="2014-04-15T20:46:55.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no difference that I'm aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike has 2 sets of eyelets, and I have a fender screwed into one set, but I could just as easily use the other set. I suppose the same could be said of using either set for rack mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at it from a structural point of view though, it would probably depend on the bike and the materials it's made of. But if it's in the right place, I'd probably give it a go :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10916" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T20:46:55.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21175" CreationDate="2014-04-15T20:58:25.517" Score="20" ViewCount="6036" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it considered bad etiquette to ride a road bike through a small residential area? Not talking about a cheap bike and riding on the sidewalk but a nicer road bike at a decent pace. I don't want to upset anyone by cutting through their neighborhood but it would be a lot easier for my commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TSBtn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8397" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T18:38:23.043" Title="Is it bad etiquette to ride road bike through a small residential area?" Tags="&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21174" CreationDate="2014-04-15T21:19:23.100" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't consider it to be bad etiquette IF:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're not breaking the posted road speed limit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch not only for cars backing out but for kids.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch for dogs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In small neighborhoods like this it's also not a bad idea to stay out in the lane and not hug the curb. This gives you much more time if a car or child comes hurtling out into the road and you're not going to be slowing down a following car very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: include the warning to watch for dogs. This is pretty important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="638" LastEditorUserId="638" LastEditDate="2014-04-17T18:38:23.043" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T18:38:23.043" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21174" CreationDate="2014-04-16T04:05:39.897" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Absolutely not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And why would it be? Should you run a race through there without getting the residents onboard first? Of course not. (And who would?) But taking a bike ride through residential areas? Why would anyone object? And if they do, how could it possibly be labeled unreasonable for a cyclist to come down the street at 10-20 mph when cars come down it all the time at 20-40 mph? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretend you live there and ask yourself which one you want coming down your street at their maximum speed and recklessness. I'd take a peloton of drunken idiots on bikes over a single car. The former could be merely entertaining, but the latter rather lethal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T04:05:39.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2014-04-16T11:25:52.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Chain guard/Chain cover&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a frame, usually made of plastic or metal, that covers the entire length of the chain or only the upper part, mainly for protecting the rider from the dirt and lubricant on the chain, but can also protect the chain itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k4FbH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bike_chain_guard_full.JPG&quot; title=&quot;http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bike_chain_guard_full.JPG&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1tTQD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/69/Bike_chain_guard_part.JPG/320px-Bike_chain_guard_part.JPG&quot; title=&quot;http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/69/Bike_chain_guard_part.JPG/320px-Bike_chain_guard_part.JPG&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3374" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T11:25:52.273" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-04-16T11:25:52.273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21174" CreationDate="2014-04-16T12:20:18.193" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you're in the US.  If that's true, a bicyclist has the same rights (and obligations) as a motor vehicle, so etiquette doesn't come into it.  You have the right to use the public roads (and the obligation to stop at stop signs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless there's something odd about your bike riding (you ride with a boom box cranked up to 11?), I would think you'd be welcome to cut through a residential area, as you make no noise, emit no pollution and are arguably less impactful than a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be polite, wave at folks who yield to you at intersections and enjoy the ride!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10925" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T12:20:18.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-16T12:41:50.487" Score="0" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to buy a bike and started checking for one online. I went through some nice ones on Aliexpress.com but the price is very suspicious to me. It's not just the price but also the free shipping via those expensive shipping companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone (especially someone who understands Chinese) tell me if those are real bikes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mountain-bike-folding-bicycle-mountain-bike-variable-speed/1770766581.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;THIS&lt;/a&gt; link as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10926" LastEditorUserId="10926" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T13:04:04.793" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T17:08:45.797" Title="Are these bikes real from Aliexpress?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2014-07-18T12:46:12.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21171" CreationDate="2014-04-16T12:56:11.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is no structural difference. Bikes with two eyelets are meant for a rack and panniers, but are basically the same tabs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have one eyelet, you can attach both rack and panniers to the same one, and use p clamps to secure the rack to the seatstays. A lot of racks come with hardware to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T12:56:11.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21182" CreationDate="2014-04-16T13:09:33.043" Score="4" ViewCount="24599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I completely sandpapered my bike a few months back and repainted it with a coat of primer first, and then matt black. The paint was sprayed only after sandpapering the bike with the appopriate gritt so as to make sure that the primer would stick great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the original paint, my bike hardly got scraped too much and too badly, but now, it is easily scratchable. The pure metal is visible as if the primer and the matt black simply were peeled off (where the bike got scratched).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could I have done so differently to make it so much more scratchable than the original factory paint job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;More Info&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I sandpapered the bike clean and wiped it down with rubbing alcohol as suggested (I don't remember where).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoided touching the frame before the painting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sprayed a coat of primer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once dried, sprayed the matt black paint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The paints were not at all sprayed heavily to make the paint peal off, and not too lightly either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9001" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T07:12:22.670" Title="My bike after a new spray paint, gets scratched easily" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21181" CreationDate="2014-04-16T13:22:18.570" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commercial paint jobs &lt;em&gt;often&lt;/em&gt; use heat-baked enamel, with multiple coats (not just undercoat and topcoat), and finished with a clear top coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The baking process produces a really tough, well bonded coating, and the clear topcoat (as well as being tough) produces a nice finish that hides scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T13:22:18.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-16T14:25:47.663" Score="1" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't got any experience for these bikes. I want to buy a bike but I can't decide because I will use on paving stone. For example &lt;a href=&quot;http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T-4s9S0idLE/UW-QHlgv_nI/AAAAAAAAAaY/6geZkO80Bpo/s1600/IMG_0025.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy a hybrid bike however I saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decathlon.co.uk/fit-3-road-bike-grey-id_8239797.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;bike in Decathlon and I fell in love with it. This situation confuses me. Which bike type should I buy ? Hybrid or road bike ? Will I have a problem by road bike on paving stone ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10928" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T15:11:57.343" Title="Road Bike or Hybrid Bike For Paving Stone" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21183" CreationDate="2014-04-16T14:37:34.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those paving stones look fine - you could take just about any bike along them.  it's worth considering that there are bike races on &lt;a href=&quot;http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/11/1%C3%A8re_partie_carefour_de_l%27arbre.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;far worse&lt;/a&gt; pavements - the Paris Roubaix famously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you don't need to worry about that.  I would say that the bike you linked to in Decathlon is also a hybrid - it's not a 'road bike' in the traditional sense, which would imply drop handlebars, more like this one:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-3-road-bike-white-id_8239800.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-3-road-bike-white-id_8239800.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have no idea what that bike's like - it's just the first one which came up)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to which one you would buy.. well try them out, see which styles you prefer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T14:37:34.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21214" CreationDate="2014-04-16T14:40:47.530" Score="3" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watching the Paris-Roubaix and the Ronde van Vlaanderen recently made me think I'd like to try out my road bike on similar-style cobbles, just for a laugh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anywhere in the UK (I live in Devon, so down in the South West would be best) with similar surface?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5820" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T14:51:26.493" Title="Where can I ride Paris-Roubaix style cobbles in the UK?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21183" CreationDate="2014-04-16T15:11:57.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like 7thGalaxy stated, a path like that should not prove to be an obstacle for most any bike. I recently started cycling again for commuting reasons and went the cyclocross route by purchasing a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes-road-cyclocross-roper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raleigh Roper&lt;/a&gt;. The Roper is running a 700c tire with a very slight knobby on the edge in case I need to leave the hard-pack for any reason. Also, I love the drops as they make riding any sort of distance that much more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10931" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T15:11:57.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21181" CreationDate="2014-04-16T17:08:03.340" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since OP said the bike was Aluminum, we should note some things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Painting aluminum almost always goes wrong when done at home. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upon sanding, often sand particles are embedded in the aluminum (sand blasting likely doesn't help). &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/paint-prep.html&quot;&gt;Chemicals are the way to go&lt;/a&gt; for stripping aluminum frames. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need a different type of primer (etching primers specifically intended for aluminum), such as this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-12-oz-Automotive-Self-Etching-Primer-Spray-Paint-249322/202097278&quot;&gt;Rust-Oleum Automotive etching primer&lt;/a&gt;. You typically follow this up with another compatible primer. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Powder coating / doing this professionally will probably the way to get it to actually work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T18:39:05.977" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T18:39:05.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18879" CreationDate="2014-04-16T17:25:59.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems that cyclocross bikes are basically road bikes with a bit of knobby on the tire. I recently purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes-road-cyclocross-roper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raleigh Roper&lt;/a&gt; to use as a daily commuter. I went with the cyclocross style because the slight knobby lets me leave the hard-pack every once in a while. Also, there are numerous bosses to mount a rack, bottle cage, pump, etc. If you're looking at graduating to the Cycle Oregon week ride, you can always get a road/touring set of wheels to swap out. Or, the cheaper alternative is to just get a set of road tires to swap onto your wheels when you want to tackle the longer 100% pavement routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as @Batman mentioned, the most important thing is bike fit. I test rode a number of bikes at my local shops before settling on the Roper. Some bikes with the exact same setup felt slower and cumbersome while others felt twitchy and uncontrollable. It all comes down to what fits you and your style best. Everything else can be upgraded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10931" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T17:25:59.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-16T19:11:36.983" Score="2" ViewCount="505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not too familiar with the correct terminology for bike parts so please bear with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a mountain bike and have started to notice a loud creaking sound coming from the pedal/bracket area.  I have noticed that it makes noise when I put more pressure on the pedals from accelerating from a standstill.  I also hear the noise when I am riding while standing up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips, suggestions, or knowledge on the matter would be greatly appreciated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10937" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T20:13:16.450" Title="Creaking From Bottom Bracket" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-04-16T23:37:10.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21192" CreationDate="2014-04-16T19:51:27.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming nothing is wrong with your frame, your bottom bracket probably needs to be properly greased up and re-tightened to the right torque specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frankly, unless you're interested in rolling up your sleeves, buckling down and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;familiarizing&lt;/a&gt; yourself with bicycle mechanics and purchasing all the necessary tools, just take it to your local bicycle shop and have them tighten things up for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T19:51:27.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21192" CreationDate="2014-04-16T20:13:16.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to do:! Take your pedals off and put a new pair on. Make sure it's still creaking. I've been sure multiple times that something was wrong with my BB, switched the pedals, and the noise stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this and still get the noise, take apart the BB and re-grease. If it's loose bearing, inspect the races, clean, and regrease. If it's a sealed bearing BB, grease the non-drive-side cup outside and in. Make sure that the drive-side cup is flush with the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T20:13:16.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-16T20:56:50.413" Score="1" ViewCount="1465" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use an SRAM cassette PG 730 7-speed cassette with a Mavic FTS-X freehub? According to the spec, no spacer is required for an 11-speed cassette and for 9/10 speed version a spacer is required. I'm a bit confused since the manual is kind of vague. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8618" LastEditorUserId="8618" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T21:54:46.827" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T21:54:46.827" Title="7-speed cassette on an 11-speed freehub" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21197" CreationDate="2014-04-16T21:09:09.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some good guidelines are &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, courtesy of Sheldon Brown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have the right freehub body for Shimano/SRAM-style cassettes on the FTS-X, you just (probably) need a 4.5mm spacer behind the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T21:09:09.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21201" CreationDate="2014-04-16T21:21:07.707" Score="11" ViewCount="6201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to start commuting on my bike, but I often use busy roads that are not cycle friendly and cyclists are not often noticed. I need a horn to be noticed. (and to vent my anger without losing my voice!! - I'm joking here. One of the only highway code rules I remember is &quot;DO NOT sound your horn aggressively&quot;. If only car drivers knew that one!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any horn out there that is battery powered but does not sound like an alarm system, or has more than one sound? I just want to press it and have a sound like a car horn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any cheap ones out there that do this (I do not mind buying from China).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10939" LastEditorUserId="2152" LastEditDate="2017-09-28T13:19:10.183" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T19:13:55.160" Title="Are there sirens/horns that are like a car horn?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;&lt;signals&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21200" CreationDate="2014-04-16T21:54:38.983" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a few loud horns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hornit:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A shop I used to work at sold these and they are extremely loud - around 140 decibels, but they sound like a loud beep rather than a horn. It takes 2 AAA batteries. Costs $45 US. The nice thing about this one is the button to press is remote, so you can have the horn on your fork or wherever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Airzound: &lt;a href=&quot;http://deltacycle.com/airzound-horn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://deltacycle.com/airzound-horn&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This one is slightly less loud (115 db), but it has more of a honk to it and requires no batteries - it takes air pressure through your standard bike pump, so there's virtually no cost beyond the initial investment. this one is slightly bulkier as you have the horn itself, the air cannister, which looks like a water bottle, and the tube that connects them. A friend of mine has one and he says it's pretty effective.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also this kickstarter: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lansey/loud-bicycle-car-horns-for-cyclists&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lansey/loud-bicycle-car-horns-for-cyclists&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I've never seen this one in person, but the kickstarter can explain it for you. It has 112 db sound and sound the most like a car horn. it's $95 US though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GaryE also showed this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I use a bike horm from another Kickstarter project. It has a friendly sound and a very loud &#xA;  beep: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2008278958/orp-smart-horn-smorn?ref=search&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ORP Smart Horn&lt;/a&gt; –  Gary E &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loudness is 98 db, but this one also has a light included&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastEditorUserId="6407" LastEditDate="2017-10-03T19:13:55.160" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T19:13:55.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21174" CreationDate="2014-04-17T04:56:16.380" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I has a sad that you even felt like you had to ask this question, no matter what kind of bike you have. :( Out of curiosity, where do you live?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just try to be a considerate and careful cyclist. If you're used to riding, then you are used to being aware of crazy stuff that could happen around you.If you live in an area that makes you ask this question, the drivers might not know how to deal with cyclists. They might not think to look for you, or if they do see you, they could assume they always have the right-of-way. It's probably the same in your regular commute. They might have their guards down a little more in the familiarity of their bicycle-free neighbourhood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, no, it is not bad etiquette to ride your bike on public streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10941" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T04:56:16.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21200" CreationDate="2014-04-17T05:23:43.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the puny bell which is mandatory in the Netherlands, my Velomobiel Quest human-powered vehicle also has an electrical motorcycle horn. It is driven by a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/206042/Conrad-energy-NiMH-Sub-C-Akku-Powerpack-12-V-4200-mAh-Bauform-Stick-Stecksystem-Tamiya?ref=list&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;radio-controlled car battery pack&lt;/a&gt;. It's relatively loud (sadly also for the Quest driver) and keeps road-raging motorists at bay quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might even be possible to get a 6-volt variant of the horns such that you can use a smaller battery pack or even two mobile phone batteries taped together. That is, if you want to tinker with this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside of having a car horn, instead of another noise-making device, is that nobody will identify a cyclist with the horn sound. I think the AirZound which Cole mentioned is a better approach, because it actually sounds &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; like a car horn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2017-09-29T09:56:19.150" LastActivityDate="2017-09-29T09:56:19.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3412" CreationDate="2014-04-17T06:16:04.767" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive the same Rohloff for over 8 years and do not see an end of its lifetime. I cannot speak for other brands, but in all posts above the free-of-charge service by Rohloff, as part of their special corporate culture was not mentioned. Up to now, whenever there was a problem, the thing was being send to Rohloff and I had to pay nothing. That being said, yes there are some problems worth mentioning and I assume these can apply to other internal gears as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard to impossible to shift under load, which is the major reason why&#xA;I have an additional bike with external gears that I use when going&#xA;to the Alps.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At tempeatures below 0 or -10 °C, the gears loose grip, i.e. you&#xA;turn several times without moving. Up to now, after some turns, it&#xA;started to work again but I always fear that it will stop working&#xA;at -20 °C in the middle of nowhere. Rohloff recommends to use a&#xA;special oil mixture during winter time which does not prevent this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even in summer time it rarely but does happen that my Rohloff shows&#xA;the slipping effect mentioned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should have a LBD who knows Rohloff (including how this company is operating), which might not be easy to find. Moving, I had to turn my new LBDs into experts for two times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T06:16:04.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21185" CreationDate="2014-04-17T10:58:35.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all seriousness the only places I can think of where I've seen cobbles would be town centres. If you do a search on Google Images there are some stories dated 2013 which have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.express.co.uk/news/weird/369972/Nanny-state-bans-cobbles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;images of the cobbled Market Place in Beverley&lt;/a&gt; - ironically the story there is that the council wanted to tear them up for health and safety reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure I once rode through a town in Dorset which had cobbles - I forget exactly where (possibly Wimborne Minster) but again it was a town centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrast that to what you see in Paris-Roubaix. Those cobbles appear to have once been vast thoroughfares through the countryside - they have got to be Napoleonic in origin, a way of getting his troops from A to B. That story about Beverley dates the cobbles to 175 years, so roughly the same ballpark, so I'm sure if you travelled back in time far enough you'd find such roads in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect road building policy has a lot to do with it too - France is twice as big as the UK so possibly in France they just decided to build brand new roads from scratch, taking a slightly different route, and to allow the old roads to decay to what we see today. Maybe in the UK they took the approach that, to save space, they dug up the old road and replaced it with new, following the same route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T10:58:35.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21174" CreationDate="2014-04-17T12:50:57.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do it naked, it will probably be considered bad etiquette. (Remember Bicycle Race by Queen?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess nobody in your city ever uses a bike?! In the 1800s people were afraid that trains would scare cows along the rail track, and make milk go sour. Nowadays we know this is not true. Biking through urban areas won't make anyone's milk sour! ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10947" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T12:50:57.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21200" CreationDate="2014-04-17T12:57:10.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the Orp Smart Horn. It's a bike light and a high powered bike-horn.  It should be loud enough to get noticed by cars, not just a dinky bell sound.  It also doubles as a visibility light and is USB rechargeable.  I don't have personal experience with this, but I was looking at ordering one for myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.orpland.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.orpland.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T12:57:10.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21212" CreationDate="2014-04-17T13:18:35.123" Score="3" ViewCount="2847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Colnago I want to resurrect, which after some Google-ing I have discovered is very similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velociao.com/2012/colnago-super-198384/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the bike here&lt;/a&gt; (but in blue):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F2kYv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to replace the drop bar brakes with &quot;standard&quot; brakes on the handle bar (this bike isn't for racing, just going around the city and it's more comfortable like this). So I am thinking of taking off the old brakes, re-taping the bars and fixing some new levers to the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes are like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQFZhEp3OQBc1JdaBuA5hSUnbofQmXQFQDR3HxSo4bvPjXhns_qWQ&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is, I have never done this before and it's a first time. So my question is: do I need anything special to convert it? Or can I just use some standard v-brake levers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this the next question is I want to replace the whole crankset, cassette, pedals - the works. Brakes first though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: By &quot;standard&quot; I mean what this bike has, but with both sets of brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l283/frameteam2003/lingosfixyfrontend.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10949" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-02-09T11:05:03.790" LastActivityDate="2019-02-09T11:05:03.790" Title="Single pivot brake with handlebar levers (Resurrecting an old Colnago)" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21211" CreationDate="2014-04-17T13:38:45.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are interrupter levers such as the Tektro RL720 pictured here (courtesy of Rivendel):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cdn3.volusion.com/ctxtv.wmppt/v/vspfiles/photos/bl9-3S.jpg?1341939926&quot; alt=&quot;enter link description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to redo the cabling, but standard V-brake levers will not work for a variety of reasons (handle bar diameter (conceivably, you could shim it on, but this doesn't seem very safe) and amount of cable pull (which you could solve with a travel agent, but this is pricey). Most of these are designed for 24mm clamp diameter bars, so you may need a new bar if yours doesnt have this diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arne's suggestion is a good one though - you could fetch a pretty penny for that thing from a vintage bike nut, and get something thats more discrete for riding around town and other things (and has the essential rack and fender mounts). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.487" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T13:38:45.690" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21200" CreationDate="2014-04-17T14:46:47.900" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a loud horn to vent your anger is not a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scared/confused drivers behave even worse than normal drivers, and a loud noise coming from a bike can confuse them. They look around for the car/truck that is blasting them, they won't be looking for a cyclist as they don't expect a horn noise to come from one. They may then waver from their line possibly putting you at greater risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A safer option is to cycle defensively so they do see you and always keep aware of escape routes if cars do invade your space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do require an aural warning then yelling is very effective. Drivers do hear you and then are expecting a cyclist or pedestrian and behave appropriately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you are yelling so much you damage your voice then I would suggest a course of yoga and meditation to calm yourself down... or possibly plan to use a different route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="760" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T14:46:47.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21185" CreationDate="2014-04-17T14:51:26.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a map maintained by a Bike Radar person&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF&amp;amp;msa=0&amp;amp;msid=113029186218946556099.0004785d476236cd4866c&amp;amp;dg=feature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF&amp;amp;msa=0&amp;amp;msid=113029186218946556099.0004785d476236cd4866c&amp;amp;dg=feature&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="760" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T14:51:26.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21211" CreationDate="2014-04-17T15:26:08.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Standard&quot; brakes is not a thing. Can you be more specific? You imply you want to replace the brake levers with a different style, such as those designed for flat bars, but you provide a photo of road calliper brakes as your replacement. Are we talking about the brake callipers or the levers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Batman points out, there are issues (though not insurmountable) in changing from one brake lever style to another, but they can be a pain all the same. Differing amounts of cable pull being a good example. If you mean &lt;a href=&quot;http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/9592/d91sblou3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;suicide brakes&lt;/a&gt;, then seriously reconsider this. They are not safe and only actuate the real drop brake lever. They will also seriously degrade the value of your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean to change the callipers, then this is a much easier job, but you also have to think about compatibility; is it a recessed bolt or nutted, is the reach compatible with the wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above all, if the current setup works, you'd be best leaving it and maybe tuning it, rather than switching out entire systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you do decide to sell it, I'll put up my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Interrupter brakes, as Batman suggests, do indeed work by pushing the housing rather than pulling the cable, and are really designed to be between two pieces of housing, as in the image. But they will work adequately if you push the housing away from the… I think it's called the nipple. The only dodgy bit is that the nipple is sitting in the equivalent of a cable stop, and so is not very snug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10557" LastEditorUserId="10557" LastEditDate="2014-04-17T15:32:56.177" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T15:32:56.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21211" CreationDate="2014-04-17T20:37:33.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get used to riding a drop bar bike as it is before you make this sort of change. You will probably find that you can amble along not working very hard with your hands on the tops, but when you want a bit of power, keeping your hands on the drops is suddenly much more comfortable, powerful and efficient.  (Back injuries may change this, making the &quot;drops&quot; position painful or uncomfortable)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then when you need to stop suddenly, you will need the brake levers on the drops; as the bike is designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move the brake levers to the tops and braking is only safe and convenient when your hands are on the tops; i.e. when you aren't going very fast. That's a very bad idea...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;suicide bars&quot; mentioned in another answer are well named : they flex badly so while they provide a little slowdown with your hands on the tops, they won't provide the braking you need when you really need it - in the wet you will slide helplessly into the obstacle at almost your original speed. Far better to shift your hands to the drops and brake as hard as you need, and the easiest way to train yourself to do that is to unscrew the &quot;suicide bars&quot; and recycle them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10954" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T20:37:33.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-18T07:27:52.520" Score="1" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for a good pair of glasses for low-light or nighttime cycling.  I've tried a few pairs but all have the same issue: a &quot;ghost&quot; double image of any bright lights.  It can be a bit disorienting. It seems to be due to some sort of internal reflection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the Oakley Fast Jacket and Smith Pivlock V2, and the clear and orange lenses that go with both have the same issue.  Are there any glasses that don't have this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10962" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T20:39:16.683" Title="Clear glasses without &quot;ghost&quot; double images?" Tags="&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15987" CreationDate="2014-04-18T09:12:42.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After riding single speed for a long time I finally went fixed last week and there's no going back. Straps and toeclips: Absolutely. Not only are they more safe because as others have mentioned your feet won't be slipping off the pedal, they also fully connect you with the bike which is the whole point of riding fixed in the first place. Getting in and out of them is tricky at first dealing with the fact that the pedal is always spinning. I'm still mastering this, but it gets easier with practice. Take it slow at first, practice on a bike path or at a park. I would also recommend running front and rear brakes at first until you're comfortable on the bike and able to fully control your speed with pedal pace. When you get to the point where you're almost never grabbing the brake levers ditch the rear brake. 90% of your stopping power comes from the front brake, keep it for emergencies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10964" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T09:12:42.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21224" CreationDate="2014-04-18T16:02:33.987" Score="2" ViewCount="33029" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time for new Tires on my Mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently running a 2.1 (26&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of the 2.3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can run it at lower pressure and get some of the benefits of a tubeless (more traction) with the downsides (increased rolling resistance) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;higher weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2014-04-18T20:04:52.930" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T20:04:52.930" Title="What are the Pros/Cons of a 2.1 vs 2.3 wide Mountain Bike Tire" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21127" CreationDate="2014-04-18T16:15:00.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a old Fuji Royale that my dad bought from a junkie they year i was born, (1982), i still ride that bike. the bike was way too big for him so he never rode it much and it sat in the garage until i was 25, it turned out to be the perfect size for me, since i'm more about 6 inches taller than him. i converted it to a single speed as the chain/derailleurs were both beyond repair.  so old bikes aren't bad because they are old, their bad because they are the wrong size. so long as they aren't rusted out or compromised they should be fine to ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in your case it sounds like you have the wrong size bike, maybe two small. i'm assuming you have a threaded headset, meaning you can easily raise the stem height somewhat, that should help. also, older bikes had weird drop bars that are uncomfortable, replace that with a new bar, with a shallower drop could help or flat bars even.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;either way, go to your LBS and ask them if its even the right size for you. if its not, getting a new bike wouldn't be a bad idea. if it is, ask them how to adjust it for more comfort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10351" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T16:15:00.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21222" CreationDate="2014-04-18T16:35:22.060" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Tom J. Stokes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tomjstokes.com/2010/09/21/choosing-a-mountain-bike-tire/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;excellent article&lt;/a&gt; on choosing tires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wider tires tend to grip better during cornering and over rough terrain, at the expense of increased rolling resistance and weight. Wider tires will also float better in sandy conditions and are much more resistant to pinch flats when riding over sharp rocks or off of drops. For moderately rocky cross-country use, the sweet spot is between 2.0″ and 2.3″. If you primarily ride smooth hardpack or travel at a leisurely pace, choose a 2.0″ or even a 1.8″ tire. Likewise, if you tend to corner hard on the downhill and ride rough terrain, lean toward a 2.3″ tire. For downhill mountain biking where pedaling efficiency is less of an issue, look for a tire between 2.3″ and 2.6″. Tires up to 3.0″ wide are available, but rolling resistance becomes very significant past 2.6″.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front tire is typically subjected to more cornering forces than the rear tire. Likewise, the rear tire is usually loaded with more weight while pedaling. Consider using a wider tire in the front with a slightly narrower tire in the back to get the cornering benefits of a wider tire with the rolling resistance advantages of a narrower tire in the rear. I’ve had good luck with a 2.5″ tire up front with a 2.3″ tire in the rear on my downhill bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that widths are approximate. I’ve got a 2.3″ tire which measures 2.5″ wide with my calipers, and a 2.4″ tire which is actually only 2.25″ wide. Make sure that your frame and fork have enough clearance to support the width of the tire. Maximum tire sizes are listed in the owner’s manual. If you ride through mud often, allow for even more tire clearance to keep mud from building up between the tire and frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly though, the difference between a 2.1 and 2.3 is very small - I would just get the highest quality tire you can afford that is between those measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T16:35:22.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21127" CreationDate="2014-04-18T18:03:06.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My two cents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most component manufacturers trickle down their product tech to lower groupsets over time. So compare a 1996 Shimano Dura-Ace component, that has 9 speeds, to a modern-day 105 component, which has 11 speeds. That, in addition to all the frame geometry engineering that comes with modern bikes! In my experience newer bikes with lower components ride just as smoothly as (much) older bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiki chart: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano#Road_groupsets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano#Road_groupsets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should test ride different bikes to get a feel of what different bikes can do for you! And as the other commenters have noted, $500 will not get you very far. Mid-tier road bikes can MSRP for $1k+. If I were you, I would save up to get a shiny new bike (especially if your current bike is giving you back problems). :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10972" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T18:03:06.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21127" CreationDate="2014-04-18T20:39:00.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the main problem with your bike is that the position is too low. Is your stem already at its highest possible position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, it's still relatively easy to raise the bars. You can buy a stem extender as a cheaper option:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000AO9ZE8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cromo-Quill-Stem-Extender/dp/B000AO9ZE8&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Or a tall stem as a more elegant option:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/nitto-technomic-stem-tall-26-0-clamp.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/nitto-technomic-stem-tall-26-0-clamp.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also need to replace your cables and cable housing if your handlebars are significantly higher, but that's not a bad idea on an older bike in any case. Either way, you'll spend $100 or less on the upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T20:39:00.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23589" CreationDate="2014-04-18T22:17:10.730" Score="5" ViewCount="8002" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a person sits on a bike, the air pressure in the tires must go up because of the additional weight. With 100 PSI in 700x23 tires on a riderless bike, what is the air pressure when a 100 lb rider is sitting on the bike? A 200 lb rider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T18:01:43.533" Title="How much does rider weight increase tire pressure?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21227" CreationDate="2014-04-18T22:33:34.753" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure it's possible to calculate this but my bike was only a few steps away so it seemed easier to just measure the pressure change. I connected a floor pump with a pressure gauge and pumped the back tire to 100 psi on a 700x23 tire. I then sat on the saddle and watched the pressure gauge. It didn't move. I stood up and tried a second time with the same result. I'm sure it changed a bit but it was less than the resolution of the basic pressure gauge on my pump. Or maybe it was just a lousy experimental design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I weight about 180 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, experimentally with two trials, the answer is the pressure doesn't change very much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="510" LastEditorUserId="510" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T17:42:05.430" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T17:42:05.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21245" CreationDate="2014-04-19T04:44:44.953" Score="35" ViewCount="34908" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some comparable bicycles have a crossbar (top tube) that's horizontal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F6Oxi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Windsor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others have one that's sloped:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNTZW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trek Crossrip&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the reasons for either frame design? Is it merely style preferences? Or is there more to it, like performance and comfort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Assume a men's frame.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6994" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T11:23:32.413" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T13:14:08.117" Title="What is the difference between a horizontal top tube and a sloped one?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-19T06:11:44.307" Score="7" ViewCount="6609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that when riding with a single pannier, the pannier should be mounted on the left side (traffic side in the US). However, the article didn't give a reason behind that. It's been quite some time and I can't find the article again for reference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially thought that it was so that the reflectors on the panniers wouldn't mislead motorists as to where on the road I, the cyclist, was positioned. However, after noticing this evening that a pannier mounted on the traffic side of the bike blocked the visibility of my girlfriend's seat post mounted light, I began to question this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason to ride with the pannier on one side or the other? Does it matter it all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T21:29:04.563" Title="When riding with a single pannier, does it matter which side it's on?" Tags="&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;visibility&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21230" CreationDate="2014-04-19T06:12:09.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how much of this is marketing, but I believe the main reason is comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer seat post has more flex to absorb bumps and the seat stays being lower gives the rear triangle more flex too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage is a lower stand-over height for bikes with high bottom brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T06:12:09.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21231" CreationDate="2014-04-19T08:35:05.447" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't aware of a rule for this, but I would hang a single pannier on left because it's the non-drive side of the bike. I doubt it matters though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was buying a new rear wheel a few months back, I found the spoke patterns in some rear wheels are different on one side to the other, so I don't know if this would make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'd have added this as a comment, but it informs me I'd need 50 rep for that, hence the &quot;answer&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10916" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T08:35:05.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21231" CreationDate="2014-04-19T08:57:54.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, your girlfriend has her light mounted incorrectly. If at all possible move it further back on the bike, so that the tyre and frame don't block the view of it. If the light is designed to be mounted there it's a poor design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the big block of colour/reflectors on the road side sounds like a good idea. But the pannier will still be visible on the other side of the bike, so it's more a matter of having it slightly further out. That also means the clean side of the pannier is facing traffic turning from the other side of the road, helping potential T-bone drivers see you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on whether you're buying one pannier or a pair. Generally people buy panniers in pairs so they can use both when they want to carry more stuff. And you want the pair to wear evenly, so you don't end up with one ratty old worn-out pannier paired with a nearly new one. So it's best to alternate the panniers from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy symmetrical panniers this isn't an issue - you can keep using your single pannier on the outside, just swap them over occasionally (so the former &quot;left&quot; side pannier now sits on the right, and vice versa). With larger rear panniers they're often asymmetric, though, so you can't do that. I'm not sure the advantage of having the pannier on the traffic side is so great that I'd be willing to wear that pannier out leaving the other side one much less worn. Maybe buy two of the traffic side one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T08:57:54.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21227" CreationDate="2014-04-19T09:48:39.060" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a first approximation you could use zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But more accurately, with a 23mm tyre you probably have about 20mm diameter of air inside. A 700c wheel is ISO 622, so has an inner radius of 311mm. So your tube forms a torus with major radius 321 and minor radius 10mm. A litre is a cubic decimetre (a cube 1/10th of a metre or 10 cm on a side) so it's easier to use dm for this. So, major radius = 3.21dm, minor = 0.1dm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Volume of a toroid = 2 π² minor² major = 2 π² 0.1² 3.21  = 0.63 litres&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, at 100psi with a 200lb rider the flattened area is 2 square inches, or 1290 mm². So we want the volume of a toroidal section having that flat area. Conveniently the section is an ellipse, so the area is π (major radius)(minor radius) (and a circle is πr² because both radii are the same). As a first approximation let's say that the minor axis is half the width of the tyre (so 10mm) and see what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a = π R r =&gt;  R = a / π r = 1290 / 10π = 41mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems a little on the short side, but it's vaguely plausible, so what's the volume? Unfortunately the volume of a toroidal section is a bit beyond my rusty calculus, so I'm going to cheat. A lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, what arc does this represent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;sine θ = 41/321 =&gt; θ = 0.0004 radians (about 7°)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about 3.5° each side of the centre of the flat spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How deep is it? Since sine X = x for small x, and we definitely have small x, if we go out 20.5mm from the centre of the flat spot we've got a right triangle 20.5mm on the long side. The short side is that times sine 3.5° as above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;depth = 20.5 * (20.5 / 321) = 1/321 = 0.003mm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;= 0.00003dm (since we're using dm for volume calculations)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see that's a pretty flat shape, so even a crude pyramidal approximation is not going to matter too much (if it's out by a factor of 5 or 10 it's not really going to matter, it's still going to be &quot;roughly zero&quot; as a fraction of the total volume above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conveniently we can express the volume of a pyramid as a factor of the area of the base:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;volume of a pyramid = 1/3 height * area of base&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The area from above was 1290 mm², which we need to divide by 100² to get it in dm² for the volume calculations = 0.129 dm²&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;volume lost = 1/3 * 0.00003 * 0.129 = 1.34e&lt;sup&gt;-6&lt;/sup&gt; litres&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What fraction of the original volume is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;fractional change = lost volume / total volume = 1.34e&lt;sup&gt;-6&lt;/sup&gt; / 0.63&#xA;  = 2.12e&lt;sup&gt;-6&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See, even if that's out by a factor of ten, we're still looking at a volume change of 10&lt;sup&gt;-5&lt;/sup&gt;. So the pressure change will be about the same, a change of 1/1,000,000 the actual pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was the XKCD guy's &quot;What If&quot; I'd now work out how fat you'd have to be to cause an appreciable change in tyre volume. But I'm not, so I shan't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-04-19T23:01:23.137" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T23:01:23.137" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21227" CreationDate="2014-04-19T10:44:55.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a very simple way to accurately estimate this: use &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boyle%27s_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boyle's gas law&lt;/a&gt; which states that the product of pressure and volume is constant. Thus if the air volume in your tire decreases by 10% (which I think is a huge overestimate), then the new volume V2 is 0.9 times the old volume V1. Hence the new pressure P2 must be 1/0.9 = 1.11 times the old pressure, i.e. pressure increased by 11%. I'd conclude that pressure is barely affected by the weight of the person, if the tire has enough pressure to support you in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7161" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T10:44:55.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21240" CreationDate="2014-04-19T13:49:02.937" Score="14" ViewCount="23720" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kind of inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/21227/how-much-does-rider-weight-increase-tire-pressure&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but something I've been thinking about for a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much does the air in a bike tire weigh?  Is it an appreciable amount? Is there a point where using a wider tire, like at 28c at 80 psi would be lighter than a 25c tire at 100psi? Obviously, this depends on the specific tires used.  I don't have a scale precise enough to measure, and I don't have the math/physics knowledge to figure this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2020-08-27T08:19:41.403" Title="How much does tire pressure affect the weight of the wheels" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10140" CreationDate="2014-04-19T14:42:59.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel, steel, steel.  Anyone who has owned a good to high end steel bike (4130 tubing or better, with Prestige being perhaps at the top of the touring food chain) and has also owned aluminum will disparage aluminum until the sun goes down.  There is no comparison.  As to bar ends, they are perfect for touring, and cantilever brakes are the best choice because of weight issues.  The above Motebecane looks great, but expensive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10979" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T14:42:59.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21242" CreationDate="2014-04-19T15:06:31.987" Score="2" ViewCount="2537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a floor pump intended for mainly rather low pressure tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It lets out quite a bit of air from the hose when disconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I calculate (approximately) how much air pressure is lost by measuring the hose length and diameter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to get it up to 100psi, so should I pump it to 110psi, 120psi, 130psi?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10920" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T17:09:57.377" Title="Can I approximate how much air pressure is lost from disconnecting the hose?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;pump&gt;&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21237" CreationDate="2014-04-19T15:58:14.530" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_law&quot;&gt;ideal gas law&lt;/a&gt; (which is a good approximation in this case) says PV=nRT where P is pressure, V is volume, n is mols of gas, R is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_constant&quot;&gt;ideal gas law constant&lt;/a&gt;, and T is temperature in Kelvin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, solving for n, we see n = (PV)/(RT). Then, assuming air is made up of {gas1, gas2,...} with fractions {p1,p2,...} (so p1+p2+...=1) and corresponding molar masses {m1,m2,...}, the mass of air in a tire is (PV/(RT))(p1*m1+p2*m2+...). So, what we see is that the mass of air in a tire is directly proportional to the volume of the tire and directly proportional to the pressure in the tire, and inversely proportional to the temperature of the air in the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We will make the following (reasonable) assumptions: Assume the temperature is around room temperature (293 Kelvin) and the volume of the tire regardless of pressure is the same (primarily determined by the shape of the rubber, assuming not severely under/over inflated). For convenience, air is about {nitrogen, oxygen} with {p1,p2}= {0.8,0.2} and molar masses {28 g/mol,32 g/mol}. Thus, under these assumptions (V is fixed, and T is fixed), the mass of the air in tire grows linearly with pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the mass of air in a tire of volume V and pressure P and temperature T is about (PV/RT)(0.8*28+0.2*32) grams. It may be better to write it as &quot;P ((V/(RT)) (0.8*28+0.2*32)) grams&quot; noting that V/(RT) is a constant for us. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I don't want to put the units into &lt;a href=&quot;http://wolframalpha.com&quot;&gt;wolfram alpha&lt;/a&gt; carefully, you can put in the entry &quot;(7 bar* 10 gallons)/(ideal gas constant*293 Kelvin)*(0.8*28+0.2*32)&quot; and read the result off in grams (ignoring the unit it says there) to get an estimate for the weight of air in a 7 bar (~100 psi), 10 gallon volume tire as around 313 grams. Is 10 gallons reasonable? No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets be crude about estimating the volume of a tube using a torus. The volume of a torus is V=(pi*r^2)(2*pi*R) where R is the major radius and r is the minor radius. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=volume%20of%20a%20torus&quot;&gt;Google&lt;/a&gt; will calculate it for you (and has a picture of what major and minor radius is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't be bothered to actually go outside and measure these things, but lets be crude and use a massive tire. Say the minor radius is 2 inches, and the major radius is 15 inches (this is probably larger the size of the tire on something like a Surly Moonlander). This has a volume of about 5 gallons. If you were a nutcase and running this at 7 bar, it would be around 150 grams of air. At a more reasonable 1 bar or 2 bar, youd be at 45 or 90 grams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about a thin road bike tire? Lets also assume the major radius is around 15 inches, and the minor radius is around a half inch. Thats around 0.3 gallons of volume. Plugging into our formula, at 7 bar, we see that this is about 9 grams. At 10 bar, a whopping 13.5 grams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-04-19T16:14:43.500" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T16:14:43.500" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21237" CreationDate="2014-04-19T16:17:37.387" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;To calculate the weight of a gas you need the volume, pressure and temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike tyre is a torus (doughnut) with volume given by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.co.uk/#q=volume+of+a+torus&quot;&gt;formula&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V=(πr^2)(2πR)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where R is the radius of the wheel and r is the radius of the tyre. For a 700c25 tyre, R will be 311mm and r will be 12.5mm that gives a volume of 9.59×10^5 cubic millimetres or 0.000959 cubic metres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure is 100 PSI, which is 689475 Pascals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Room temperature is about 295 Kelvin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the Ideal Gas Law:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;n = PV / RT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where R is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ideal_gas_constant&quot;&gt;gas constant&lt;/a&gt;, gives n as 0.27 moles of gas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep things easy, lets assume the tyres are filled with 100% nitrogen. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.webqc.org/molecular-weight-of-N2.html&quot;&gt;1 mole of nitrogen weighs 28g&lt;/a&gt; so &lt;strong&gt;the gas in the tyre weighs 7.56g&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T16:17:37.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21239" CreationDate="2014-04-19T17:18:40.523" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I calculate (approximately) how much air pressure is lost by measuring the hose length and diameter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot tell how much pressure is lost based on the size of the hose. This is not because there is not enough information to tell but because &lt;em&gt;the hose is irrelevant&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to be under the impression that there is some total amount of pressure in the hose and in the inner tube, and when you disconnect the pump and release the pressure in the hose, some of it is lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an incorrect understanding of what pressure means. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pressure&lt;/a&gt; is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intensive_property&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;intensive property&lt;/a&gt; — it is something that is the same for of &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the air &lt;em&gt;no matter how you divide it up&lt;/em&gt; within the connected system. The pressure in the hose &lt;em&gt;equals&lt;/em&gt; the pressure in the inner tube, which &lt;em&gt;equals&lt;/em&gt; the pressure in the whole pump-and-hose-and-inner-tube system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the tradition of physics education, let's consider the &lt;strong&gt;ideal case&lt;/strong&gt; with a separately controllable valve on the tube. This is what would happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the pump attached to the inner tube, you open the valve. This causes the pressure in the hose and tube to &lt;em&gt;equalize&lt;/em&gt;: this is when the gauge on your pump jumps upward. At this point, the pressure in the tube has &lt;em&gt;reduced&lt;/em&gt;, because some of the mass of air in it moved into the hose to pressurize it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You use the pump to increase the pressure as desired, according to the gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You close the valve on the tube. The pressures on each side of the valve remain equal to each other and to that read by the pump's gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You disconnect the hose. The extra air in the hose escapes to the atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as you closed the valve, the inner tube &lt;em&gt;became a closed system&lt;/em&gt;: the pressure in it is no longer affected by anything about the pump. It will stay where the gauge said it was while you were pumping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, in a &lt;strong&gt;real&lt;/strong&gt; valve and pump chuck, there isn't a separate control to close the valve (pumps may have moving center pins to push the valve open as part of the “lock” but they aren't always exactly the right length — but I've never used a Presta valve so I may not have this right for those), and it is instead closed as you pull the chuck off the valve. This may release some air from the tube, due to the valve not being fully closed before the connection starts being open to the atmosphere. However, the amount of air released from the tube depends on &lt;em&gt;the valve and how fast you let it close&lt;/em&gt;. It does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; depend on the volume of air in the hose (except insofar as the pressure in the hose opposes the pressure of the tube even though both are also flowing out to the atmosphere, which is probably a minor effect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1789" LastEditorUserId="1789" LastEditDate="2014-04-20T13:37:36.277" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T13:37:36.277" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21237" CreationDate="2014-04-19T17:22:04.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just in case you prefer general knowledge over physics: the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Density_of_air&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;density of air&lt;/a&gt; at a reasonable temperature is around 1.2 kgm&lt;sup&gt;-3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The volume of your tire (accepting Tom77's answer) is 0.000959m&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the mass of air in it at 15&amp;deg;C and atmospheric pressure is around 1.1g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we do need one bit of physics, the relationship between mass and pressure for a given gas in a given volume and temperature is linear. This comes from just Boyle's law provided we're prepared to believe that twice as much gas at the same temperature and pressure has twice the mass. Which is a lot like saying that two buckets of water weighs twice as much as one bucket of water, so hopefully not controversial ;-) So I've cleverly(?) avoided needing to know the ideal gas law and the value of the universal gas constant in favour of a direct &lt;s&gt;crib off Wikipedia&lt;/s&gt; measurement of air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Atmospheric pressure is 15 psi (ish), so when you measure 80psi that's really 95, so it's 95/15 = 6.3 times as dense as the external air. So the answer is 6.3 * 1.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7g (0.2 ounce)&lt;/strong&gt;, at the 15&amp;deg;C stated by the Wikipedia article for my estimate of the density of air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you change the temperature from there then the pressure changes linearly, according to the combined gas law (or &quot;Gay-Lussac's law&quot; apparently is the name for this component of it, I had to look this up), provided you measure temperature in Kelvins not Celsius. 0&amp;deg;C is 273.15K. So to consider variations in temperature and pressure starting from my value, just multiply the 7g in proportion. Adding 3&amp;deg;C is about 1%, so the difference is smaller than my margins of error. Adding 20psi to the pressure is about 20%, or another 1g. The mass of air is already far smaller than the weight of the wheels. So pressure has more effect than temperature for the examples you give but &lt;strong&gt;no, it does not appreciably affect the weight of the wheels&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also another small confounding factor, which is that inner tubes are stretchy and so the volume does increase a bit as the pressure changes, requiring a little bit more gas. But not much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10980" LastEditorUserId="10980" LastEditDate="2014-04-19T17:39:45.977" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T17:39:45.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-19T19:15:59.670" Score="2" ViewCount="1391" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately, each time I ride my bike around the Bay Area, I get tackweed onto my wheels where upon one or both of them flatten overnight. Most of those are five minute rides to my local library. So, I have had to replace the tube at least ten times already for a two-month period. Details of the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road Bike that I got from Costco. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire is 700x40c, Kenda (42-622)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not very verse in bicycles, but my final solution is that I need to find a tire that does not get punctured by tackweed. My problem is that I have not found such tires at a cheap price with the right size. By cheap price, I mean something around $25-30 if able; otherwise, I would alright with something less than $70 as long as the size can be fitted onto the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RNeci.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Each intertube replacement for one wheel is $20-$25.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5620" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T23:18:57.413" Title="What is a cheap puncture-proof tire against tackweed?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21230" CreationDate="2014-04-19T19:26:49.520" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought this was an interesting question, so first of all, +1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, the sloping tube (your second image) is known in cycling parlance as a compact frame. I found an article on the Giant web site about the advantages of a compact frame. When I say &quot;advantages&quot; - this is Giant's word not mine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full article is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/technology/compactroad/57/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but to summarise it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the compact frame is smaller than the corresponding standard frame. Therefore, less material is used in the manufacture. Therefore, it is lighter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again because it is smaller, it is stiffer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With traditional designs, to stiffen the bike designers use stiffer materials which unfortunately makes the ride rougher. By using the natural stiffness of the frame, materials don't need to be stiffened hence the ride is comparatively smoother&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;because the top tube is lower, it is easier for cyclists to get a good fit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'll say straight away that you can attach your own weight to some of these features, this article has a whiff of marketing about it. But it certainly gives you some food for thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting also to note that Giant's current top-of-the-range mens' road bike (the Propel) has a standard frame (i.e. horizontal top tube). Take from that what you will! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-04-19T19:43:45.297" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T19:43:45.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21248" CreationDate="2014-04-19T20:10:05.400" Score="4" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the pros and cons of regular and slick gear/shifter cables? I just want easy gear changing. I have shimano gears if that helps. I know the difference between them, but I want to know some pros and cons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the pros and cons the stainless steel or galvanised metal cables? I leave it in the shed at night, and when I am not using so it doesn't really get wet all the time. When I ride it often gets wet or muddy. I rarely clean the bike, so it often stays muddy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10939" LastEditorUserId="10939" LastEditDate="2014-04-19T22:27:46.330" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T22:46:54.260" Title="What are the pros and cons of different types of shifter cables?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21231" CreationDate="2014-04-19T22:28:40.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm primarily a daytime rider; if I'm riding with two panniers I mount the one on the left first because that is the side with my kickstand, and putting weight on the left (kickstand) side of the bike is more stable for me than the right hand side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm riding with a single pannier I generally mount it on the left for most bicycles. It is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more stable when resting on the kickstand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easier for me to swing a leg over&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easily accessible for removal when I've parked the bike as I dismount to the left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9062" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T22:28:40.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21246" CreationDate="2014-04-19T22:46:54.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regular cables:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inexpensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy to find&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;generally lower quality than slick ones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;much of the time they are not pre-stretched, so they have to wear in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heavier &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slick cables:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;initially slightly faster shifting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;generally come pre-stretched&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lighter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(a big one) once the coating wears off, the shifting becomes &lt;strong&gt;A LOT&lt;/strong&gt; worse, and the cables need to be changed. This is fairly common if the housing isn't cut right or there is bend when entering/exiting a housing stop. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;very expensive &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;installation is harder as the cables are more fragile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adjustment is more finicky &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stainless Steel Cables:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't rust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;slightly slicker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Galvanized:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more bendy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T22:46:54.260" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-04-19T22:46:54.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-19T23:40:49.647" Score="3" ViewCount="1397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered a long-john (namely, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.larryvsharry.com/english/Clockwork.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bullitt Clockwork&lt;/a&gt;) and - the official folding seat/composite honeycomb bottom being way too expensive for my budget, I am now in the process of building a passenger seat for my son (1,5 years old).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish my seat to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be safe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be cheap to build&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have the possibility to tilt backwards (or anyway having it designed in such a way that when my son falls asleep during longish rides his head won't bounce all over the place).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first impulse was to build something akin to the box the bakfiets comes with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3s5kq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But while being cheap to build and relatively safe (the kid is enclosed in a solid structure) there is no support for the neck/head, nor the seat can be reclined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second idea was to still build the box but enclose/fix on the bottom of it a forward-facing child seat designed for cars.  Not owing a car, I'm not sure of how that works, but I know as a fact that my friends children routinely sleep in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this solution is relatively expensive/heavy, and in addition I either fix permanently the seat to the box (and then I need to always shelter the bike from rain/snow) or I make it releasable (and then I'll have to carry it around if I don't want to get it stolen / be soaked by rain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the last idea I had was to mould a box-cum-integrated-seat in FRP (fibre reinforced plastic, think &quot;fiberglass&quot;).  I have some experience with previous projects and the end result is light and durable, but getting it done is a labour-intensive process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is: &lt;strong&gt;does anybody have an alternate idea on how I could build the seat for my son? Or an off-the-shelf solution that won't cost me an arm and a leg?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10986" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T08:57:05.173" Title="DIY solution for carrying kids on a long-john: ideas?" Tags="&lt;children&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2014-04-20T03:11:35.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fit in to that weight category and I ride a Trek superfly 100Al dual suspension bike. I do ride it hard and even being the biggest bloke in the group that I ride with, I can out ride most of the lighter blokes. I ride the bike hard and unfortunately I do regularly break things. I have re-spoked the rear wheel with heavy duty spokes after breaking too many spokes, but recently I broke the rim so I now have a much stronger new wheel. I also wear out the rear suspension bushes approx. every 8-12 months. The running gear (chain, chain rings and cassette) also gets replaced every 6-8months. But having said this I ride about 8-10000km a year and most of that off road and often giving it a hard time (do you see this common point I keep bringing up).&#xA;So what I am trying to say is, get yourself good equipment but be prepared to do extra maintenance especially if you give it a hard time. But the main thing is get out there and enjoy it and don't give up. About 4years ago I was just over 370lbs and now I am around the 250lbs (I hope to drop a few more as riding has helped heaps)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10991" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T03:11:35.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-20T05:19:15.697" Score="1" ViewCount="1949" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Nov of last year I had a bad stupid crash that broke 2 of my front teeth and left one loose. I was descending from a very rocky steep hill and my wheel got locked, threw me off my bike straight to a rock. My bf said it was bc I wasn't going fast enough to keep momentum. Anyways, make long story short I am terrified. I've been road biking with clipless pedals to build confidence but I just can't seem to have it when it comes to mtn biking,any advice on how to get rid of this fear and nervous feeling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10992" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T18:42:06.013" Title="Getting back on the bike after bad fall, how do I get over my fear?" Tags="&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-04-21T18:49:38.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38838" CreationDate="2014-04-20T05:58:08.113" Score="2" ViewCount="5288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just took my rear tire off of my mountain bike that has hydraulic disc brakes (elixer5). When I put the wheel back on and started pedaling it made a clicking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought it was the spokes rubbing up against something (that's what it sounded like, some metal sound). I took the tire off again and took a good look at the disc brake pads, I saw a skinny metal &quot;r&quot; shaped thingy leaning out in the slot where the disc would fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this where the clicking is coming from and if so how do I fix it? Please ask for any more information I couldn't think of for more clarification. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5883" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T05:58:46.400" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T05:58:46.400" Title="Disc brake clicking noise" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;clicking&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19181" CreationDate="2014-04-20T09:23:47.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the derailleur is old, the internal spring which is meant to swing the derailleur out away from the cassette might be worn to the point that it is no longer able to keep the derailleur far enough out. You might be able to replace the b limit screw with a longer screw in order to make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10994" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T09:23:47.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21251" CreationDate="2014-04-20T10:16:56.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Up front, I must say I'm not a mountain biker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have had some big road crashes, and done a fair bit of off-piste downhill skiing. I understand the fear you describe. Let's analyze what you've told us. Understanding the cause and learning is the key to going beyond. Like when I broke a leg ski racing - I got over-confident and over-rotated into the tightest steepest gate, caught the outside edge, and with a sound like a gun-shot my tibia exploded. The point is - I learned the cause, and learned to ski better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say &quot;a stupid bad crash ... my wheel got locked&quot;. Translation: &quot;I was riding beyond my skill (and maybe equipment) level and got found out&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to get back? Firstly, learn from it. What skills did you need right then that you could not call up right when you needed them? I already said I'm not a MTBer, but I have a few suggestions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concentration - did you loose concentration at just the wrong time? One skill to learn is &quot;switch on&quot;. Approaching a tight bend - switch on! Approaching a steep descent - switch on! You get the idea - switch to full alertness and concentration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steep downhill - revise all you've learned about the basics of downhill, and practice starting back with really gentle, safe descents. Relearn those skills, doing it again and again. Gradually working up to steeper and steeper hills, with a variety of trails and surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reframe - you say you're terrified. Think of it as respect. You've learned a whole new respect for steep hills, and rocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be positive - you only broke a few teeth. It could have been worse. Perhaps you'll wear a full helmet next time you go someplace like that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your road skills have nothing to with the crash. It's great that you're riding at all, but you crashed doing downhill; they are the skills you need to revise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't expect or force yourself to ride beyond your skills and new found level of respect. And don't let anyone pressure you either. The key is confidence. Not over confidence. Without confidence, like me skiing a steep slope, you are certain to crash. But with well-founded confidence &lt;em&gt;in our skills&lt;/em&gt; we can do much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T10:16:56.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-20T10:30:46.510" Score="0" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have hydraulic brakes and I've recently had new pads as the old ones were no good. I ride to work everyday so I know I've bedded them in. I've gone to go out on it today and both brAkes are squeaking really bad. They seem to be sharp when off the bike but soon as any weight Is on the bike they squeak and hardly work. Any suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10995" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T07:06:16.027" Title="Squeaky hydo brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-20T15:59:03.947" Score="6" ViewCount="1626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a two day trip down the UK country roads. I'd like to time and plan my route so that I'll have a pleasant ride. Is it possible to tell which days of the week would see the least traffic? I'll be cycling from dawn till late afternoon on both days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10989" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2014-05-03T16:20:57.757" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T18:21:42.993" Title="Is it possible to predict when roads will have less traffic?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="437" CreationDate="2014-04-20T17:41:04.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replace my tyres when i start to get a lot of punctures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With new tyres, i rarely get punctures, despite what i see that i cycle over. after some time, and wear, i suddenly start getting a lot of punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a hypothetical that doesnt happen: If i dont get any punctures and i start to see the tyre fibers coming through, its definiely time to replace the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it meets no manufacturers or performance guidelines, but its a method that requires absolutely no monitoring and lets me get all the life i can out of the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10999" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T17:41:04.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21251" CreationDate="2014-04-20T18:42:06.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you truly want to start mountain biking again, start small and with easy rides that could help you regain confidence and enjoy the ride without too much stress or worry. A good choice would be a flattish trail with a good surface that doesn't require much technical skill. As you start feeling more confident again, increase the difficulty. And as the previous answer, introspection and addressing skills that you need to develop is critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find that you don't enjoy it at all anymore, don't push yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T18:42:06.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-20T18:55:05.737" Score="1" ViewCount="2544" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, I have Shimano Tiagra 4600 series brifters on my bike, and the barrel adjuster on the front derailleur cable slips when the shifter/derailleur is in the smallest chainring position, when the cable is at its slackest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adjusters appear to be Jagwire Rocket adjusters (see photo), and the cause of the slipping seems to be that the notches on the screw part and base are somewhat different in size and don't engage well enough to prevent the adjuster turning due to road vibration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could fix the problem with the existing adjusters by either filing out the notches on the fixed barrel to be slightly larger, or possibly using a mild threadlocker. However, I don't feel that these are good solutions to what appears to be a design flaw with the adjusters (which came with my bike from the factory).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a number of questions as to the best fix for this. Should I use the cable adjuster designed by Shimano , subassembly (4) on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/ST/EV-ST-4600-3154_v1_m56577569830750055.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ST-4600 exploded view&lt;/a&gt;, which contains an alternative baseplate to place on the shifter itself that provides the indexing and retention of the adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, should I use an inline cable adjuster like the Shimano SM-CA70 (see spread 11/page 20 on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com.br/publish/content/global_cycle/pt/br/index/suporte/download_wosp_2013.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;24 MB 2013 Shimano Spares catalogue&lt;/a&gt;). I know that these are intended for brifters with under-tape gear cable routing, but are they higher quality than the adjuster that would be built into the Tiagra shifters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be adjusters that fit into the downtube cable stops, but my frame (Cannondale Synapse Alloy) has somewhat unusual non-threaded ones mounted on the sides of the head tube, and I fear that the stops being mounted so far forward on the bike would pose an issue with sharp bends for the cable exiting the adjuster if the bars were turned a large angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JzskR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The current adjusters on the bike, it&amp;#39;s hard to see but the &amp;#39;teeth&amp;#39; on the rotating part are too wide to snugly fit in the notches on the fixed part&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small edit: If I had to summarise the question to be a bit more objective, it is this: do all cable adjusters for the front derailleur cable have issues with slippage due to the lower cable tensions, or are the Jagwire Rocket adjusters just unusually bad at keeping their position? Do either inline or cable stop adjusters generally perform better than the other option? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10272" LastEditorUserId="10272" LastEditDate="2014-04-20T22:32:52.233" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T07:11:18.227" Title="Slipping shift cable barrel adjusters" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21231" CreationDate="2014-04-20T22:10:55.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the reason for the left side of the bike has to do with the side of the roads cars should hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always mount my pannier on the left side, but I chose to do that just &lt;strong&gt;to better balance the bike&lt;/strong&gt;: I would guess that the transmission with the chain, cogs, derailleur, etc.. all to the right of the wheel axis should even so slightly make the bike heavier on the right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other practical reason why I chose to do that is that this way I am &lt;strong&gt;positive my pannier won't interfere with the gear mechanism&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g.: the pannier pushing the derailleur towards the inside on a bump, a loose strap getting caught between cogs and chain, the chain itself smearing grease on the pannier...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; reasons to mount it on the left, no guarantee they are &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; reasons behind the article you read! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10986" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T22:10:55.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21256" CreationDate="2014-04-21T02:45:39.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The full answer is &lt;strong&gt;it depends&lt;/strong&gt;, as Chris has commented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is really a country road, you can also encounter farm animals as they are being moved, or farm machinery (or it can encounter you). This can happen on any day of the week, as can the other kinds of traffic. In general the only category that &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be expected to decline is commercial trucking on a Sunday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention if you are in the UK; if so, a reconnaissance trip could be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source of information would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ctc.org.uk/local-groups&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;local cycle touring clubs or groups&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T02:45:39.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-21T07:05:25.187" Score="2" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an IGH that gives one the maximum overdrive-ratio that one might get with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008JHRSL0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;39-53T crankset&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008ZSAAQI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;11-34T freewheel&lt;/a&gt;? If not, what is the mechanical roadblock in making one ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8135" LastEditorUserId="8135" LastEditDate="2014-04-21T18:00:12.817" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T18:00:12.817" Title="Can an IGH have the same maximum overdrive-ratio as a crank-sproket setup?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21264" CreationDate="2014-04-21T08:02:09.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we use the Sheldon Brown Gear Calculator set to metres development (although any other unit will work adequately), we see that the range for a 39-53 x 34-11 system is 2.5 to 10.4 metres developed per crank revolution, yielding an overall range of 416%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The widest range options from various companies are the Shimano Alfine 11 hub, which has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/0/alfine/product.-code-SG-S700-S.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a range of 409%&lt;/a&gt; - essentially the same - and the Rolhoff Speedhub 500/14, which has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/en/technology/speedhub/gear_range_comparison/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a quoted 526% range&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare to a Sturmey-Archer AW three-speed hub, with an overall ratio of 178% based on its stated ratios of 1.33, 1.00 and 0.75.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10272" LastEditorUserId="10272" LastEditDate="2014-04-21T08:11:13.177" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T08:11:13.177" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21256" CreationDate="2014-04-21T08:58:15.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, Saturdays and Sundays are quieter than weekdays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Department of Transport collects &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/government/collections/road-traffic-statistics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;various statistics on road use&lt;/a&gt;. This table (TRA0307) shows average traffic by time and day of the week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X3E1a.png&quot; alt=&quot;Motor vehicle traffic distribution by time of day on all roads in Great Britain, 2012&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also this table (TRA0306) which shows average traffic by day for different road types and different vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0HyIw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Average traffic distribution by day of the week, Great Britain: 2012&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there are statistics for average annual traffic on every major road in the UK. There's an interactive map &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dft.gov.uk/traffic-counts/cp.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T08:58:15.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17359" CreationDate="2014-04-21T23:05:52.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When comparing BB types, a significant factor to consider is the longevity of the bearings, and serviceability. Outboard bearings have the most longevity but are essentially unserviceable. When they go, or when the splines are too damaged by bad installation/removal or inferior tools, then toss them and buy replacements. Outboard BBs are used with Hollowtech (Shimano) and Ultra Torque (Campagnolo). Then there are press-fit BBs, in which the cups (or a sleeve into which the cups are fit) are pressed directly into the BB shell, which is now made without any threads. These need specific tools to install and remove, but are preferred for high-end bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BBs with the least longevity and least serviceability are ISIS (ten-splined). These are also a pain to remove the cranks from, since you need a special attachment on your crank puller (similarly with octalink, incidentally). The reason these have such little lingevity is that the diameter of the spindle means that the bearings contain much narrower balls. I'm not sure what gauge, but if you've ever taken apart bearings on a bike, there are three main sizes: BB, wheels and headset, in order of size from largest to smallest. The BB should have the largest because there is significantly more torque applied to the BB that anywhere else on the bike. The headset for example endures comparatively little. Isis BBs have to fit the bearings and the thicker spindle in the same shell size, and so they use smaller bearings that can't endure as much torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the most serviceable: older bikes, before they invented cartridge BBs (of which all the above except outboard bearing style are examples), had loose bearings (or at most inside one-sided cages) sitting between the cups (the sides that screw into the BB shell) and the cones (raised smooth edges on the spindle itself). These cup-and-cone BBs are analogous to the internal design of the wheel axle and bearing setup. These require frequent (every 1000km or so) disassembly, cleaning and reassembly as they get fairly full of crud. On a recent clean of an older fixie I run, I found that I had split several of the bearings into chunks, explaining the crunchy feeling of my rotation. As loose bearings are readily available, these older style BBs can be continued to be serviced right up until the cups and cones themselves get too degraded on their inner surfaces to function properly (pits in the grooves for example, where the ball bearings will naturally sit in, and which come about through over-tightening) will mean that ball bearings will wear out quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Square taper BBs, as the commenters note, come in several incrementally different types. The main difference between ISO and JIS is the length of the tapered section of the spindle. ISO is shorter. The angle of the taper is the same (I believe), so you can fit an ISO crank on a JIS taper (and I have done this) but the cranks sit a couple of mm further outboard than ISO &gt; ISO or JIS &gt; JIS. Conversely, you could fit a JIS crank onto an ISO BB, but depending on the spindle width, it may rub against the BB shell as it would sit a few mm inboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as ease of installation, longevity, ease of crank installation and interchangeability, I would definitely suggest that outboard bearings, either hollowtech or ultra-torque, are the best balance of cost and benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10557" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T23:05:52.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-22T00:49:22.150" Score="2" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somehow I lost a single 'stopper fixing bolt' on my down tube cable stop. I have a set of Shimano sm-cs50 outer down tube cable stops, and I don't want to buy new ones because I only need one bolt. Does anyone know the exact name of the bolt, or where I might find a substitute for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iA3pG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;shimano cs50 downtube cable stop&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11016" LastActivityDate="2020-10-21T15:06:05.020" Title="Where can I find a Shimano cs50 stopper fixing bolt?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19040" CreationDate="2014-04-22T03:37:10.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the 2012 Metrix 20, which is the first model year of the bike. The 2012 is a little heavier than later models due to disc brakes, triple crankset, and aluminum forks. In general, the previous advice to replace things as they break given that your bike is reasonably well equipped is good guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I got a case of &quot;upgrade-itis&quot;. Here is my list: Wellgo R025 track pedals and clips (stock pedals are garbage), Prologo Nago Evo Plus saddle, Merek carbon seatpost, Ritchey clone carbon 600mm flatbars, Kalloy Uno 100mm stem (stock 90mm too short), Shimano XT 3x9 shifters, Ergon GS1 grips, Cateye computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of my upgrades will reduce future maintenance expenses, but it sure does improve my overall riding experience. I concede that the carbon upgrades are a bit of a placebo effect, but they do make the bike lighter. I got my bike on sale ($250 season end discount) and had some additional other funds, so for me money was not an issue. If you can afford it treat yourself and upgrade, starting with your contact points - pedals and seat. Otherwise enjoy your new ride for now, you've got a good bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11017" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T03:37:10.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21239" CreationDate="2014-04-22T05:52:30.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're that concerned with lost air and exact pressures, get Schrader valves on your bike and buy a shock pump like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scott-sports.com/global/en/products/219684/language/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scott Shock Pump Pro 600&lt;/a&gt;, which lets you close the valve before disconnecting the hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that - if you're not far heavier than 100kg, it doesn't really matter whether you have six or eight or twelve bar in the tubes when it comes to puncture safety. In those pressure ranges it's just a matter of rolling resistance and comfort. The former optimizes somewhere around 8bar, the latter decreases steadily with increasing pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T05:52:30.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15827" CreationDate="2014-04-22T09:44:19.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some cases where this problem occurs when there is an incompatibility between the crank and the bottom bracket, because the ISO square taper to the JIS taper differ on their angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for example you got a Sugino 75 crank with a JIS taper you will get that effect, whereas with an ISO taper it centers perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10653" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T11:27:39.497" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T11:27:39.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-22T14:00:37.170" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a rare occurrence this weekend I managed to completely destroy my SRAM PowerLink. So I went over to my LBS and got a new one; however, when I went to install it, it was super hard to close the link (I ended up giving up after a bit since it would only go half way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After giving it a night and then trying again, I decided perhaps I had bent the chain links where the PowerLink was, so I bought a new chain. The chain came with the same PowerLink and I had the same problem. Eventually I got it but now I'm most likely going to need to saw it off (just kidding, will need pliers though) if it needs removing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference I can see is that they went from a gold colored plate to a black one, but it's still 10 speed (and the chain is SRAM as well). Anyone know if they have modified thickness, shape, or anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T07:15:36.027" Title="Did SRAM change/update their 10 speed PowerLink?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;master-link&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14932" CreationDate="2014-04-22T14:47:07.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went riding on the Kokopelli Trail and experienced the pucker factor. I will say that it was better this year than last year, so familiarity with the trails helps.  I rode them all this year and walked quite a bit last year, but in Fruita I got to the top of Zippity Do Dah and pulled out again this year. I just couldn't look past the drops! But that's this year; confidence, just like in skiing, grows a little each year and my motto is always:&quot;walk today, ride tomorrow&quot;. Have fun, ride with friends, practice sections like you fell on with ruts at slower speeds perfecting your decision making ability. Imagine the spot again and again, what will you do next time?  You should absolutely know and have prepared for it.  I had trouble riding switchbacks so i set up a route riding 27 switchbacks up and down my daily route.  I ROCK switchbacks these days but remember when I didn't. Go forth, realize balls are earned, and prepare on solo rides for your moments of decision :)  That's my 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11021" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-04-24T21:31:20.100" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T21:31:20.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21283" CreationDate="2014-04-22T17:51:07.347" Score="2" ViewCount="1217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a good floor pump for my Raleigh Talus 3.0 bike which I recently purchased. I don't know much about bikes and have seen that there are different valve types (i.e. - Presta and Schrader) that a bike may possess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I distinguish a good floor pump from a bad one and how can I tell if it is compatible with my bike in terms of its design and features?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4277" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T00:07:46.957" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T00:07:46.957" Title="Bike Floor Pump for Raleigh Talus 3.0" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;pump&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21287" CreationDate="2014-04-22T18:23:13.443" Score="1" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rear bike rack similar to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00EZZBH0S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt;, but I have no top or bottom eyelets on my Lemond bike. I want to attach it with p-clamps for a 3 day tour. How much weight can p-clamps hold? Do you have any recommendations on which specific p-clamps to get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T00:21:20.300" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:21:20.300" Title="Pannier rear rack with no eyelets" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21280" CreationDate="2014-04-22T20:20:03.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely want a floor (track) pump - something that looks like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZLwEM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;topeak&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/mediafiles/products/6416/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most good floor (track) pumps have support for both Presta and Schrader valves, usually through two opposite ends of the chuck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ETmuS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Topeak&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/mediafiles/products/6621/?show=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your pump only supports Schrader valves but you have a Presta valve, you can go to your bike shop and buy an adapter for Presta-&gt;Schrader for around a dollar, each. (The reverse case is rare to occur, but adapters do exist but they're around 8 dollars a piece)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To pump up a Presta valve, you unscrew the nut, tap the nut to let a bit of air out (so that the valve isn't stuck), push the chuck onto the valve and lock it, then pump, tighten the nut. Dust cap is optional. Schrader is identical to the procedure on a car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for which pump to buy, make sure its rated to an appropriate maximum pressure, has a good warranty and has good reviews. Going with a good brand helps too, but you don't need to spend much. I've been using a Topeak Joe Blow Sport II which I got for around 30 bucks with no problems for the past 2 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame pumps are a different matter, but they're primarily for people going on longer rides who won't have access to a floor pump in an emergency. Shock pumps are for people who have air suspension to fill their forks, and are also a different matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A non-exhaustive list of quality manufacturers include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Topeak&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Park Tool&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lezyne&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T20:25:58.637" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T20:25:58.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21285" CreationDate="2014-04-22T21:35:32.157" Score="14" ViewCount="1523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm kicking around the idea of riding the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.curadmir.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Curadmír&quot;&gt;Curadmír&lt;/a&gt; in the spring of 2015 (almost 600km over 3 days across Northern Ireland), a ride that would obviously have a lot of elevation changes in it (~2000m/day). A year is a lot of time to prepare for it, except for one small problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in the Netherlands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5KSi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A country almost entirely flat and almost entirely below sea level. The biggest hill within 250km of my home is a highway overpass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of getting on a train to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnX4uaDYyIU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kapelmuur&lt;/a&gt; every other weekend from October to May, how would you recommend I train for riding hills without, you know, riding hills?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T14:06:58.263" Title="How should I train for a hilly ride while living in a flat country?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;hills&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21284" CreationDate="2014-04-22T21:48:16.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intervals. Lots of intervals. I had a similar problem when training for the Seattle-To-Vancouver ride while living in southern Michigan. We have hills up north and I took a few trips there before the ride, but it really wasn't enough to reduce the suck. This year, I've taken to doing tons of intervals with a regimented training program. In order to keep myself honest, I've been using my bike in a trainer with trainerroad. The measurable progress is rewarding and knowing when I am slacking off is incredibly motivating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4015" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T21:48:16.200" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21280" CreationDate="2014-04-22T23:08:31.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best floor pumps have a steel tube, a steel shaft and a wooden handle. They have a heavy brass attachment at the hose end without levers or locks, push-on for Presta (a locking mechanism is not necessary to attach to a Presta valve, the fitting just needs to be well made and have the appropriate rubber seal) or remove the Presta part and screw-on for Schrader. This is what it looks like - apparently it is called a &lt;code&gt;chuck&lt;/code&gt; sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GBaG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brass Presta adapter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a steel foot plate and a pressure gauge. The rubber hose should be secured with clips rather than glued or molded in so that if you need to you can replace it - this is a good sign the manufacturer expects the pump to last longer than its hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a dinosaur, something like your grandfather might have tucked in the back of the shed, but I bought mine only about 15 years ago. I don't think I'll ever need another one. It has handled road, MTB and kids bikes (very different capacity and pressure requirements). The brand is Silca but others must make a non-plastic pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="1914" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T23:15:47.807" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T23:15:47.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21281" CreationDate="2014-04-23T00:33:57.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the upper mounts, there are brackets that clamp on the seat stay or the seat post and provide the regular braze-ons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm betting the p-clamps will hold more weight than the rack will, however try it well before your tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T00:33:57.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21296" CreationDate="2014-04-23T01:54:05.757" Score="6" ViewCount="22944" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any general rule or recommendation to avoid usage of certain gears combinations (for 2xN and 3xN gears systems)? Do they differ for mtb and road bikes? &#xA;I know that it's recommended not to use biggest front chainring with big chainrings on cassette (and opposite) because parts will wear faster and I will loose a bit of pedaling efficiency, but I'm not sure, if I should avoid 2 or 3, or even more biggest (smallest in opposite case) chainrings on cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1440" LastEditorUserId="1440" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T03:12:06.147" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T15:12:11.607" Title="Which gears combinations shouldn't be used?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19055" CreationDate="2014-04-23T03:44:06.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://inrng.com/2014/01/uci-world-tour/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;It's complicated&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, and this may not be all there is to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my reading of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uciworldtour.com/Modules/BUILTIN/getObject.asp?MenuId=MTcxNw&amp;amp;ObjTypeCode=FILE&amp;amp;type=FILE&amp;amp;id=34028&amp;amp;LangId=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;part 2 of the UCI WorldTour regulations (p43-44)&lt;/a&gt; is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The duration of new &quot;Continental&quot; events is 5 days, unless the event has an exemption from the committee. Existing events have the same duration they had in 2004. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2004_Tour_Down_Under&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tour Down Under&lt;/a&gt; went for 6 days in 2004. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A prologue can be included if&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It does not exceed 8km.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is time trial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It counts as a race day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all confirms your suspicion that it's due to the rules. The Peoples Classic was 50km, and was not a time trial, so it couldn't be part of the TDU. As you say, it was good for attendance and marketing (and publicity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T03:44:06.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21284" CreationDate="2014-04-23T05:43:39.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's not too far, try Limburg and the region around Aachen in Germany. While you won't find hour-long ascents there, riding a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of smaller hills up and down will keep you far more fit than riding one big ascent a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T05:43:39.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21288" CreationDate="2014-04-23T05:48:03.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to avoid the two biggest/smallest rear sprockets when in the large/small chainring, but that's just a rule of thumb. In the flat, I try to stay around the middle sprockets in the cassette to have as wide a gear range as possible without switching chain rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using these combinations will indeed increase wear and reduce efficiency, but how often do you really have the need to ride these combinations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T05:48:03.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21288" CreationDate="2014-04-23T06:23:39.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason to avoid using, say, the larger front chainring with the larger rear sprockets (or vice versa) is nothing to do with loss of efficiency or anything like that, but because of a phenomenon called &lt;code&gt;cross chaining&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're in the smaller chainring, which is more inboard, then you should be on the more inboard rear sprockets, the larger ones, and similarly, when your in the more outboard chainring, the larger chainring, you should be on the more outboard, smaller sprockets. Cross chaining happens when the chain has to cross from being inboard at the cassette, to being outboard at the cranks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross chaining puts quite a lot of stress on your chain and gears, can lead to a noisy, squeaky drivetrain (chain rubbing against the inside plate of the front derailer, for example), and causes your chain to wear quicker. Quicker chain wear then leads to quicker cassette wear, and quicker chainring wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why gears are positioned as they are, to encourage you to use the bottom 7 rear gears with the smaller front chainring, and the top 7 rear gears with the larger front chainring. This means that the middle 4 rear sprockets (on a ten speed bike) can be used on either front gear, while the bottom 3 and top 3 should be used with the corresponding chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical change-up (based on a 53-39 front, 11-23 rear setup) will go like this: Start off low, maybe 39-21, change the rear up until you get to maybe 39-15, then shift to the larger chainring and at the same time, do what's known as a &lt;code&gt;recovery shift&lt;/code&gt;, which is shifting the rear gear down 2 or so sprockets so that jumping from the small to the big ring isn't such a massive increase in gear (53-15 compared with 39-15). This way you find yourself in 53-19 with a good, steady cadence. Then simply proceed up the sprockets as far as you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A change-down might go in reverse, or you might simply change to the smaller ring when you get down to the middle sprocket if you know you're going to be slowing for some traffic lights, or getting prepared for a climb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see too many cyclists simply going into lower gears in their rear sprockets while leaving the front in the big ring. It's a good idea to stick your head between your legs every once in a while to see where your gears are. Without those fancy indicators on your brifters and shifters, you can forget which ring you're in!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10557" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T06:23:39.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21396" CreationDate="2014-04-23T11:09:59.037" Score="15" ViewCount="6998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Garmin Edge 810. Sometimes when using routes created with Garmin Connect or Strava Route Builder, I unfortunately find myself on bad gravel roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a route planning tool that allows you to only select asphalt/tarmac?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T08:15:38.663" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T08:15:38.663" Title="Route planning and avoiding gravel/unpaved roads?" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;&lt;strava&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-23T13:27:30.450" Score="11" ViewCount="67151" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclesportmag.com/features/mark-cavendish-interview/&quot;&gt;interview&lt;/a&gt; with Cycle Sport, Cavendish said he puts out over 1500 watts of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“You’d be surprised at my watts,” Cavendish says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“Most people who say that their maximum is 1,600 watts won’t put out&#xA;  1,600. My maximum is 1,580, and that is a lot. Not many guys will do&#xA;  more than a hundred more than that. But no one will ever get close to&#xA;  that in a race after 200 kilometres,” he continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“I put out 1,490 today in training, on bad form, but I won’t put that&#xA;  out in a race. It’s not watts, and it’s not just my frontal area in a&#xA;  sprint. It’s everything beforehand. How I ride in the peloton. My&#xA;  pedalling action. How I sit. I save so much energy for the finish.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it 5 second power or 30 second power? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T22:56:33.867" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T13:34:20.283" Title="When Mark Cavendish says he's sprints at 1500 watts how long is that for?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21284" CreationDate="2014-04-23T13:46:37.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cycle a lot everyday. As the previous one said, try going to Limburg, or exercise a few hours in the Mergelgrotten around Limburg, or try some nature areas around Braband or Drente, which ever is the closest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11034" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-04-24T07:21:36.233" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T07:21:36.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21288" CreationDate="2014-04-23T14:46:39.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old chestnut from the days of 5 speed freewheels and chainrings without shifting ramps. With modern hyperglide cogs and the relatively slinky thin modern chains, cross chaining is simply no longer an issue. While there are very few studies on this, the one I've seen suggests that there is no loss in mechanical efficiency for cross chaining at the angles typical of most bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general for a given gear ratio, big/big is more mechanically efficient than &#xA;small/small. So the only science out there suggests that cross chaining on the big&#xA;chainwheel is actually more efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jhu.edu/news_info/news/home99/aug99/bike.html&quot;&gt;http://www.jhu.edu/news_info/news/home99/aug99/bike.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the gears you like, check your chain wear and replace your chain often and the expensive bits of your drive train will last a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T15:12:11.607" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T15:12:11.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21244" CreationDate="2014-04-23T17:19:00.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forget the slime, thornproof tubes, and tire liners.  IMO, the best puncture protection for under $40 are Vittoria Randonneurs.  I've had excellent luck with them.  I had a pair of Gatorskins before the Randonneurs, and trust me, Kevlar belts &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; work as well.  Because the Kevlar is a woven material, very sharp objects can penetrate between the Kevlar fibers.  Happened to me at least six times with the Gatorskins over a two year period.  Blackberry thorns, glass, and even staples penetrated the Kevlar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since you say you're not very versed in bikes, I have to wonder if you may be pinching the tubes when mounting them, or leaving whatever punctured the tube in the tire, allowing the next tube to be punctured as well.  Are you checking for any sharp objects poking through the inside of the tire, or for any burrs along the inside of the rim?  I always try to find the puncture in the tube &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; removing it from the rim, so I can concentrate on that area of the tire for a closer inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T17:19:00.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21302" CreationDate="2014-04-24T02:08:35.030" Score="3" ViewCount="4134" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to a car accident and the extended time insurance has taken to get my car handled, I pulled my fixie out of the garage and started riding it to my university mon-fri; it's about a 15 mile round trip, no hills. I have been doin this ride for 3 weeks now and my legs are still significantly sore from the ride every day. When I am riding, there are no issues with my legs or stamina or anything, but lets say I am standing and I keep my leg straight and try to lift it; at about 45 degrees the top part of my leg where it meets the hip/pelvis there is pain and I cant really lift it any higher. Is there a certain point where after having done this ride 5 days a week for a given number of weeks that I will not have this issue anymore? If anyone knows any stretches for cycling too that they would like to suggest, that would be appreciated too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For profiling on this issue I am 5'5&quot;, 120lbs, and have been significantly inactive for the past year as a university student (literally spend the large majority of my time sitting in a chair).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11037" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T15:49:31.580" Title="How long for legs to get used to fixed gear 15 mile daily ride" Tags="&lt;muscle-pain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-24T02:22:05.210" Score="1" ViewCount="2481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I needed to replace my old fixie frame with something lighter, and with a standard BB shell. So I came across this one online. The seller bought it off a friend who stripped and painted it, so any knowledge of its provenance won't come from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What drew me to it was the fork. Clearly quality steel rather than piece of pipe bent into shape like you see on cheaply built single-speed frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a serial number on the BB shell (Y5K2698), but googling for this only points weakly to it being Japanese, possibly built for the American market, possibly in 1985. But I suspect it's rather more recent than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no bosses for shifters, cable stops or eyelets for panniers or fenders, only one set of bidon cage bolts on the downtube, and the seatstays attach to the side of the seattube rather than under the seatpost clamp. The dropouts are semi-horizontal and about 20mm deep. No engravings on the dropouts as far as I can see [edit: dropouts are marked as Tange, so I guess the whole frame is tange steel]. Purpose-built for fixed or single speed I would guess, due to the lack of bosses or derailer hanger, but curious that it has forward facing horizontal dropouts rather than track ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of the whole bike, and here's &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/aIkFh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a gallery of details&lt;/a&gt; (sorry- I should have stripped it for proper photos of the frame only, but I just took some snaps on my way out the door to work!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dMfqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Whole bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can help I'd be grateful for your knowledge. Won't change anything of course; the bike is still a pleasure to ride irrespective of its provenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10557" LastEditorUserId="10493" LastEditDate="2014-06-18T12:44:12.327" LastActivityDate="2021-05-10T05:06:57.933" Title="Can someone help identify my bike frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8157" CreationDate="2014-04-24T03:14:20.833" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was racing sixty odd years ago you either had a valve with a Valve Rubber, or high pressure valves, the thinner high pressure tires and tubes, and Tubs [so called tubeless tires] had these as you call them Presta valves we called them high pressure and I would think they are a refined Schrader valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11040" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T03:14:20.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21299" CreationDate="2014-04-24T07:50:39.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, I assume when you say &quot;fixie&quot; it is a pure fixed-gear bike? It's not a flip-flop (where the wheel can accommodate a fixed cog on one side and a freewheel on the other)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a flip-flop, you'll find it easier to ride single speed rather than fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, I agree with much of what @Arne has said in your comments. From these you say you're riding 45x15 - I think one of the beauties of fixies is that they're easy to work on, and you can easily buy cogs with more than 15 teeth. Similarly, but a bit more expensive, you can easily buy a chainring with fewer than 45 teeth. Either of these (or both of them) will make your ride easier (and therefore ease on your muscles). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A site I like is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velosolo.co.uk/intro.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velosolo&lt;/a&gt;, not so much because they have great prices or anything (although I have bought from them and it was a good experience), but they have a good selection of single-speed/fixed-gear parts, so you can evaluate what your options are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But make sure you keep your current parts as you'll likely want to put them back on the bike in a month or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-04-24T07:58:10.200" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T07:58:10.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9481" CreationDate="2014-04-24T13:27:47.367" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Toyota Sienna and can load up to 6 bikes.  I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://totembikeracks.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Totem Pole Bike rack&lt;/a&gt;.  It works great with my two 3 girls bikes because it does not hang by the frame like other bike racks. Instead the bikes are held upright as shown in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7A00SisdsLQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11043" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T13:41:58.540" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T13:41:58.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21294" CreationDate="2014-04-24T14:39:59.797" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;That kind of power is going to be between 5-30 seconds, and is most likely a 5 second maximum, or he's quoting the absolute peak that he put out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a very interesting analysis of several Team Columbia riders from a couple years ago when Cavendish won the stage. A few riders have 30-40 second pulls at the front in the 650-700 watt range, and in the leadout, Markus is at 700+ watts for over 30 seconds with a peak over 1000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the leadout is at 1000, Cavendish probably is doing 5-20 seconds in the 1200 range as he comes around the slingshot, with surge peaks into the 1400 range, but that level is not sustainable. You can see this when sprinters mistime their sprints and start losing steam short of the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://roadmagazine.net/road_home/featurepdfs/08_Power_October.pdf&quot;&gt;Here is the link&lt;/a&gt; with the powerfiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T14:39:59.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18064" CreationDate="2014-04-24T15:53:56.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two daughters and my wife, so 3 girls bikes.  I am able to easily load on my Totem Pole Bike rack.  The bikes are hung vertically by the front wheel.  No need for the adapters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11043" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-04-24T21:28:28.293" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T21:28:28.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21307" CreationDate="2014-04-24T15:58:13.840" Score="1" ViewCount="1182" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago I tried to take my Trek road bike for my first ride since last fall. It has been sitting in my (uninsulated) garage over throughout the winter and when I tried to inflate my tires the pressure gauge on my pump showed that they wouldn't inflate. Does this sound like a problem with the pump or the innertube? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11047" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-04-24T19:03:05.980" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T10:48:35.233" Title="Tire's won't inflate after winter" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21306" CreationDate="2014-04-24T17:12:52.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does air leak out when you depress the valve?  If so, air can get in, too, and it's your pump, or at least how you're using the pump.  My old bike pump would act up like this when I pushed it onto the valve stem too far (presta valves).  Could be the case for you, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6796" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T17:12:52.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21299" CreationDate="2014-04-24T18:29:08.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can, try taking a bus or carpooling or something on Wednesday, to give you a midweek recovery day— muscles need a chance to recover to strengthen. If you don't have a transportation alternative, try leaving some extra time and taking it easy on the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your gear ratio is indeed very high, as well: 45-15 is around 80 gear inches. I'm a daily 13-mile RT commuter on a fixed gear (including a ~150ft climb), and I just moved down from ~80 gear inches to 75 gear inches for comfort, despite being an experienced cyclist and hillclimber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presuming you have a flip-flop hub, I would buy a 17T freewheel for an easier ride, at least until you get stronger. That'd give you 70 gear inches, which would be around 15% less effort, and you'd be able to coast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="5702" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T15:49:31.580" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T15:49:31.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21284" CreationDate="2014-04-24T20:32:25.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although The Netherlands is pretty flat (highest point 321m in southern Limburg), there certainly are some hills, even closer to Amsterdam:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Holterberg is a short, but decently steep climb in the Sallandseheuvelrug, which is a nice area to cycle in anyways.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Veluwe nature area is relatively hilly, with the Posbank hill having a steep climb from the south side (if I recall correctly).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7161" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T20:32:25.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21312" CreationDate="2014-04-24T20:46:54.720" Score="1" ViewCount="3403" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between these two front suspension types ?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q7sJq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this type : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fqi0A.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the upper the suspension seems stronger but is there any difference in the build type ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please ignore the different branding and model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11049" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-04-27T23:35:43.870" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T23:35:43.870" Title="Bicycle front suspension types" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21325" CreationDate="2014-04-24T21:15:09.183" Score="1" ViewCount="3872" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right now I am only familiar with two types of BBs (bottom brackets): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The square type on my older mountain bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hallowtech (&lt;a href=&quot;http://media1.roseversand.de/product/370/3/7/373869_1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SM-BB70&lt;/a&gt;) that comes with a Deore XT crank I bought on my newer bike. I'm assuming hallowtech is a newer technology. Its waaay lighter than the square type one because of the hallow tubing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I read about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike24.com/i/p/4/3/33634_00_d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pressfit BBs&lt;/a&gt;. After a bit of reading I could not find a good comparison between the SM-BB70 and pressfit BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other BBs I dont know of? Also if someone could provide a list of pros and cons for the different type of BBs that would be a big plus! Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9166" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T10:30:47.313" Title="What are the different types of bottom brackets?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21310" CreationDate="2014-04-24T21:27:29.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This biggest difference is the top (Kona) is a &lt;strong&gt;Dual Crown&lt;/strong&gt; fork where as the bottom image has a &lt;strong&gt;Single Crown&lt;/strong&gt; fork. Dual crowns are generally found on downhill mountain bikes. The style has been copied down to department store bikes as well, but don't let the look fool you those forks are still only as good as what you paid for them. For a while, there were some lesser travel dual crown forks made (old Specialized Enduros had them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these forks are most likely coil-sprung, meaning they rely on a spring to produce suspension and not air being compressed. Both also probably possess some degree of adjustment such as rebound or damping (or none at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for use, the dual crown is meant to handle more rough terrain and jumps/drops as it is more stiff and tortionally rigid. The upper crown also helps to remove force from the steer tube. Single crowns are found in travel ranges of 80mm-170mm and can be meant for anything from XC to aggressive freeriding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T21:27:29.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21319" CreationDate="2014-04-24T23:02:55.057" Score="2" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running 700x35 Marathon tires with their Greenguard puncture-resistance layer (not as thick as the Marathon Plus's, but it's there). Should I check the outside of the tires for bits of glass or similar material? If so, how often?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly-urban riding; there's a bar en route to work that does sometimes sport the odd smashed bottle in the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T09:28:47.433" Title="Should I check puncture-resistant tires for glass etc.?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21244" CreationDate="2014-04-24T23:18:57.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have a look at the Schwalbe Marathon Plus (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/4316&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/4316&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00516DE3S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Plus-Tour-Allround/dp/B00516DE3S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1398380562&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=schwalbe+marathon+plus+28&lt;/a&gt;). This does not seem to be available in 42 mm width, but only in 40 (width is the first number in 40-622, the diameter of the rim the second). But that should work. However, it is slightly more expensive than your limit of 40$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11050" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T23:18:57.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9925" CreationDate="2014-04-25T01:51:50.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1974 Fuji and I run my tires at 110-120 psi. Anything under 100 dosent work well on my bike. but if the tire says 90 psi I would put 90 psi in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11051" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T01:51:50.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21377" CreationDate="2014-04-25T02:48:47.463" Score="2" ViewCount="13513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a tire floor pump with a gauge for my bike. The gauge seems to start off at 0 PSI when I connect the pump to the tire. So, do I need to use a separate tire gauge to first measure the current pressure of my tires prior to using the pump so as not to over-inflate them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional info&lt;/strong&gt;: I purchased the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001MK3GFS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Serfas TCPG Bicycle Floor Pump&lt;/a&gt; and the gauge does not move at all when the hose is attached until I start pumping. Not sure if that's correct or if I'm doing something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4277" LastEditorUserId="4277" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T15:47:36.847" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T14:46:49.547" Title="Tire Gauge to Avoid Over-Inflation" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;pump&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25913" CreationDate="2014-04-25T03:42:03.293" Score="10" ViewCount="19087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took my bike to the shop, since it started making a weird metal on metal (not squeal, just hard brushing sound). After checking it out they saw that the back brake pads were really (REALLY) worn down, so they changed them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my bike is doing a really loud screechy sound when I use the back brakes, and the bike doesn't even stop that fast, I remember my back brakes being pretty strong, completely stopping the back wheel even if I was going fast (of course, if I was going fast it would drift a little.. but the wheel was locked). Now it's making this loud sound and just kind of slowing me down slowly, but not fully breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't know if this was normal.. but after reading a few question here like this, it seems like it is definitely not. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4486/fixing-noisy-v-brakes&quot;&gt;Fixing noisy V brakes&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this a legitimate reason to take the bike back to the shop and tell them there is something wrong with their work?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1673" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T05:48:56.377" Title="Disk brake squealing after bike shop changed my pads. Is it enough reason to ask them to re-service (for free)?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21317" CreationDate="2014-04-25T04:10:23.170" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't necessarily unusual for fresh disc pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give it a solid 20 miles. Then if you still have problems coming to a stop, take it to the shop and have them look at it. Even still, it's not necessarily something wrong with their work. It might be, if they were clumsy and didn't align things properly or left oil on the pads. But a little noise isn't enough to convict them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T04:10:23.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21313" CreationDate="2014-04-25T05:17:13.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if the glass doesn't work through the puncture proof layer (which it will, eventually), it's still a good idea to check once in a while for cuts etc, especially in the side walls, which almost never have a puncture proof layer. It's a &quot;better safe than sorry&quot; approach, but it takes all of five minutes to check both tires, so in my opinion that's time well spent if you know what happens when the tires blow out on a descent or, in your case, running a green light very late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T05:17:13.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21317" CreationDate="2014-04-25T06:02:52.540" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming Avid BB7 style brakes and not hydraulic. I wouldn't bring the bike back.  If you are using skewers on your hub, remember that any slight mis-alignment of the wheel in the dropouts will affect brake disk squeal.  Because the skewers are so easy to reset, as well as its pretty easy to turn the red adjustment knobs on the brakes you might discover this is something you want to understand how to 'adjust' yourself.  With skewers on the axles and BB7 style brakes no tools required.  You will have to understand the 1/3 alignment rule for that style brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H3b37.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Avid BB7 Brake Rotor alignment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have hydraulic brakes, and a non-adjust axle mount system that's a different story.  Please do bring the bike back to the shop. It would be safer to have a pro look at the system to ensure everything is correct.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you wanted the shop to teach you a thing or two about BB7 adjustment (1/3 alignment rule) and skewer use (how tight is should it be?), most shops would be happy to help you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10848" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T06:02:52.540" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-25T07:17:40.570" Score="7" ViewCount="5168" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should a chain be lubed each time after riding in the rain*? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about a 100km mudride (occasional water up to the hubs)? Should I stop in the middle of the ride to re-lube the chain? If so, is it essential to wipe the chain? Note that wiping with a piece of paper will be much less effective than with the cleaning device at home, so some mud and sand will be pushed into the rollers by the oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can dry chain be felt somehow, instead of relying on mileage and weather observations? How to do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* - many lubes are marketed as holding a film for &lt;em&gt;months&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T07:28:23.907" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T20:57:47.810" Title="When to lube a chain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21321" CreationDate="2014-04-25T07:47:10.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends entirely on the lube. I use Finish Line Cross Country for all my bikes except the Velomobile, where I use a thinner lube because the chain is entirely inside the fairing. Normally, I'll just dry off the chain after riding in the rain or clean it with warm water if mud is involved and dry it afterwards. Before the next ride (best the evening before) I check whether the chain is dry. If my fingers get (a little!) oily, everything's fine, otherwise, I relube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relube intervals depend of course on riding frequency, but my commuting bike gets a relube every couple of weeks, even though I leave it outside while at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T07:47:10.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21321" CreationDate="2014-04-25T08:36:34.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is a judgement call, but I don't think you can separate lubing from cleaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will basically lube the chain every time after I've cleaned it. Mostly, cleaning will be simply wiping with a paper towel, occasionally it will be the other extreme - I take the chain and the cassette off the bike completely and bathe the lot in degreaser. But after each clean I apply lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quantify, in your situation, I think if I were doing 100km muddy rides, I would clean the chain in between every ride. To lube during a ride.....well I can't see any point in doing that. You'd just be lubing dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my situation (and I'm a road rider) I will generally clean/lube every week or 10 days, or every 2-3 rides. I count this as standard maintenance, just like pumping the tyres. A &quot;deep&quot; clean, where I take everything off, will be maybe every 3 months or so. I use one of two lubes, depending on season/weather - a light, dry-weather lube (which would certainly be washed off in the rain) or a more sticky wet-weather lube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards your last point, if you do start to &quot;feel&quot; something, then probably what you'd be feeling is damage that had already been done. I view lubing as preventative, so I'll lube on a time-driven basis rather than an event-driven basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T10:43:06.097" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T10:43:06.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21313" CreationDate="2014-04-25T09:28:47.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a bad idea to make some checks, not just the tires but everything, from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the tires, I wouldn't really worry about it unless you know you've been on a road with broken glass or something that you fear may puncture the tire, that would be the only situation where a check would be advisable (IMO of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm saying this because I hardly (never) check my tires, and there has been 4000Km and no punctures!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T09:28:47.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21311" CreationDate="2014-04-25T10:30:47.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that in answering this question, it's important to understand that the differences in bottom brackets themselves is partly due to the cranks that match said bottom bracket 'doing more of the work', so the crank and BB need to be seen as a system for the whole picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;One-piece cranks (&quot;Ashtabula&quot;)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this system, the crankarms are a single piece of metal bent into a &quot;Z&quot; shape, with threading on parts of the spindle section of the crank (the part that goes through the frame). Bearing cups are pressed into the frame, then the crankarms are inserted through in one piece. bearings go between the frame cups and cones that thread onto the crank spindle. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/one-piece-bottom-bracket-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool One-Piece Bottom Bracket service page&lt;/a&gt; has lots of nice pictures that might help figure out how things go together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Three-piece cranks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These cranksets consist of a left and a right crankarm, which both attach onto a spindle which is part of the bottom bracket. Usually these BBs will thread into the frame, with the majority of the assembly being one piece that threads into the drive- (right-hand) side of the frame, and then a (usually plastic in the case of Shimano bottom brackets) supporting piece will thread into the non-drive-side to take some of the load off the drive-side threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of spindle systems for three-piece cranks are square-taper (both ISO and JIS standards), Shimano Octalink splined and ISIS splined. These BB standards all thread into the frame. The crankarms usually attach to the spindle via a bolt that threads into the end of the spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Two-piece cranks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In recent years, most higher-end cranksets have switched to a construction where the spindle and drive-side crank/spider assembly are integrated into a single unit. This means that the bottom bracket no longer needs to have a spindle, and is now essentially a pair of bearings that support the crank spindle. The variation in where these bearings are placed, their size, and how they are mounted in the frame causes the wide range of modern bottom brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Narrow-diameter spindles (≈ 24 mm)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano's Hollowtech II and FSA's MegaExo both use a spindle diameter of 24 mm, and are most commonly used with external bearing BB's that thread into the frame, such as the SM-BB70 you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRAM's GXP system uses a 24 mm spindle on the drive size which narrows to 22 mm on the non-drive side, which they say avoids having to adjust the axial loading ('preload') on the bearings during installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Large diameter spindles (30 mm)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the search for lighter and stiffer cranks, the diameter of the spindle was increased to 30 mm from the previous 24 mm. However, the cartridge bearings for a 30 mm spindle have an outer diameter that is too large to be attached with threaded external bearing cups, so most new systems moved to 'press-fit' BBs. There are a number of standards, the first of which was Cannondale's BB30, where the cartridge bearings are pressed directly into a machined bottom bracket shell in the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, because the manufacturing tolerances required to achieve a good fit for the bearings in a BB30 system are very tight (and therefore expensive to manufacture), other manufacturers switched to PF30, which uses the same cranksets as BB30 but rather than pressing the bearings directly into the frame, plastic bearing cups are pressed in first, and then the bearings are pressed into the cups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mixtures&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very recently, FSA have introduced their BB386EVO cranks, which have the same diameter spindle as BB30/PF30 cranks, but the spindle is wider. The wider spindle means that FSA can offer a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/783/MEGAEVO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BSA threaded frame to 30 mm crank bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt;, but that the crank can still fit to BB30/PF30 just by adding spacers to the spindle to make up for the narrower BB width of those standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also standards, which I do not know as much about, which concern press-fit bearings sized to accept 24 mm cranks, including &quot;Shimano press-fit&quot; (colloquially BB86 or BB92), and Trek's BB90, which uses slip-fit bearings like an integrated headset, as opposed to bearings that must be pressed in with force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Campagnolo&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo produce three types of cranksets at the moment. Power Torque is their name for a two-piece crank similar to Shimano Hollowtech, however the bearings are not part of the bottom bracket, instead they are pre-installed on the crank spindle before it is inserted into the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also produce Over-Torque, which is a 30 mm spindle design compatible with BSA threaded frames and most press-fit systems, and Ultra Torque which splits the spindle in two at its midpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Apologies for the lack of detail in the Campy section.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10272" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T10:30:47.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21299" CreationDate="2014-04-25T13:30:30.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soreness should already have started to fade.  Are there any sprints in your ride, or lots of re-starts?  The answers focusing on the bicycle are far better than I can come up with, and the suggestions of taking rest days to allow muscle recovery are good.  Addressing the body more specifically, do you have breakfast before you ride?  At least 200 calories of junk carbohydrates (rolls, sweet cereal), an hour before you ride will help your muscles perform with the least unpleasant recovery pain.  Protein soon after the ride will help build the muscle. Light range-of-motion swinging of the legs similar to the test you described that hurt at 45 degrees, on recovery-days will keep circulation developing on days the muscle is rebuilding, reducing the chemical soreness overall.  Check with a fitness reference that you trust for more info.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T13:30:30.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21321" CreationDate="2014-04-25T13:50:14.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So many parameters to consider!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I lube the MTB chain before each ride, but I hose rinse the bike after each ride.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I lube the road bike after it collects enough dirt to be cleaned. About every other month&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the same topic, I would recommend to check your chain wear on a regular basis. I recently lost several cassette teeth to this &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11055" LastEditorUserId="11055" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T14:21:10.273" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T14:21:10.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21284" CreationDate="2014-04-25T14:06:58.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding into a stiff headwind is pretty similar to climbing a steep hill and a lot more demoralizing. My guess is that you've got lot's of wind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a loop where you're doing 20-30 minutes into a 20kph headwind and you'll physically ready for hill climbing. What will be hard to simulate is the mental parts of pacing yourself correctly over the whole climb. A headwind tends to be a constant steady effort, whereas most hills vary in grade and you need to learn to pace yourself on the steepest parts. If you're doing long days in hilly country, even just a short hard effort early in the ride can affect the whole day. You've only got so many matches, try and keep at least one or two in reserve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T14:06:58.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="910" CreationDate="2014-04-25T14:21:24.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without getting into the advisability of using earphones while riding; I have hearing aids that amplify not only what I want to hear, but any other sounds in the usual frequency ranges. Hence a comparable wind-noise problem.  Have not tried all the products advertised for wind noise reduction, but have experimented with various wraps and covers to winnow down the choices.  Best so far resulted in a purchase of long-nap faux-fur strap wraps that do a fair job of reducing wind noise without interfering with ambient sound.  My hearing aids have microphones on tiny tubes that curl into the fold of my ear, not built into the in-the-canal amplifier or behind-the-ear.  That feature is in itself fair at avoiding some wind noise, but the Cat-Ears help more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cat-ears.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cat-ears.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T14:21:24.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21332" CreationDate="2014-04-25T15:44:16.390" Score="11" ViewCount="27224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this question for a while. I want to know how I can get down a hill as fast as I can. So, I was wondering if increasing the weight of a bike increases the speed on downhill stretches, or will it just slow me down because of rolling resistance, drag or other factors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am talking long stretches here, and long, 10-30% hills. I have also checked the road surface, and there are no bends, and I can easily see if traffic comes along. It is very rarely used for traffic anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I would also like to factor in things like rolling resistance in this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10939" LastEditorUserId="10939" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T16:24:21.607" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T12:53:53.080" Title="Will increased weight make me go downhill faster?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21338" CreationDate="2014-04-25T16:17:32.097" Score="6" ViewCount="8448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed my brake pads with some new ones that have been in my shed for years. They are not packaged, but as I am in the UK, which has a very variable climate. The shed gets very hot and humid in the day, and cools down at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this have an effect on the brake pads, with V brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10939" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T06:27:41.023" Title="Does the age of brake pads make any difference?" Tags="&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21330" CreationDate="2014-04-25T16:51:27.007" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing you have to consider at speed is drag:&#xA;The force &lt;em&gt;F&lt;/em&gt; on you+bike (mass &lt;em&gt;m&lt;/em&gt;) is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;F&lt;/em&gt; = &lt;em&gt;ma&lt;/em&gt; = &lt;em&gt;mg&lt;/em&gt; sin &lt;em&gt;Q&lt;/em&gt; - &lt;em&gt;F_d&lt;/em&gt; - &lt;em&gt;F_rr&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; is your acceleration, &lt;em&gt;g&lt;/em&gt; is the acceleration due to gravity and &lt;em&gt;Q&lt;/em&gt; is the hill angle to the horizontal. &lt;em&gt;F_d&lt;/em&gt; is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_equation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;drag force&lt;/a&gt; which doesn't scale with mass. Try dropping a balloon and a (soccer) football of the same size and you'll see this in action. &lt;em&gt;F_rr&lt;/em&gt; is the rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drag dominates rolling resistance at any decent speed for a well-set-up bike: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9947/7309&quot;&gt;More detail than you probably want&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencelearn.org.nz/Science-Stories/Cycling-Aerodynamics/Sci-Media/Images/Power-needed-to-counter-aerodynamic-drag-and-rolling-resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nice graph&lt;/a&gt; so you should be able to neglect rolling resistance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight will have a small effect on rolling resistance and (assuming it doesn't affect the cross-section) none on drag so it will make you accelerate faster but not by much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to experiment: start with some measured speeds with no extra load, then test the extra mass, and a dummy load of the same volume/shape/mounting made of polystyrene or cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest effect you'll have is on the drag - so the first thing to try is a better tuck, not wearing flappy clothes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For really high speeds a fairing is the way to go - compare the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hour_record&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hour record&lt;/a&gt; for a fully faired recumbant (~92km) with a UCI racing bike (~52km).  There are no stats I can find specifically for an upright with a fairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T16:51:27.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21331" CreationDate="2014-04-25T18:00:26.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since V-brakes use pads that are almost exclusively made of rubber or a rubber-like compound, they will have experienced some changes due to the temperature and moisture fluctuations. The rubber is most likely dried out and/or cracked and significantly harder. What does this mean for your braking ability? It means the pads won't have much grip and will instead slide against the rim. Plus, if any cracks begin to separate while riding, parts of the pad may shear off and your braking ability will quickly degrade. Since v-brake pads are relatively cheap you should invest in a new set and avoid any trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the pads had been in a sealed package, they would still degrade, just much slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T18:00:26.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21331" CreationDate="2014-04-25T19:44:11.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aaron is correct.  Rubber by nature will age in any environment.  Even buying new is no guarantee you will get full life from rubber products.  If at all possible, check manufacturing dates before purchase.  Four years (shelf/use) is about the limit for effective performance.  I do tend to keep the old ones laying about for a few years after replacements have been mounted, but have not yet been guilty of putting old ones back on an active bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T19:44:11.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21316" CreationDate="2014-04-25T20:00:05.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Squeezing the tire or putting your weight on the handlebars or seat will give you a ballpark idea of how much air you will need to add, if any.  Experience is still a good teacher.  Expensive sometimes but reliable.  Batman is right about the Presta valves: don't forget to unlock the valve (back the lock &quot;nut&quot; off the valve cylinder) before attaching the pump.  If a Schrader is showing zero pressure after attaching the pump, the pump center-pin isn't pressing the valve stem in.  I've found using a gauge often causes more air loss than the reading was worth.  Pump-mounted gauges are pretty good, but checking accuracy against a trusted gauge is probably a good idea as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T20:00:05.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21218" CreationDate="2014-04-25T20:20:52.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anti-reflective coating is the first solution that comes to mind.  No brand of clear-lens safety glasses occurs to me, but you might try a trick I used many years ago when I commuted by motorcycle in less than optimal lighting or weather: Car-wax the lenses.  Keeps softer plastics from scratching as badly, and changes the surface characteristics of the more modern and harder plastics.  Give the wax plenty of drying time or the fumes will make your eyes burn.  You might want to have an eye exam as well.  Second surface reflection could be a symptom of something a professional could correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11057" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T20:20:52.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21331" CreationDate="2014-04-25T21:01:06.403" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost any rubber product will degrade over time, loosing its properties. Different rubber compounds will degrade differently, depending on the formula and method of fabrication and, of course, environmental factors. This applies to brake pads, tires, grips, valve seals, inner tubes and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually brake pads tend to &quot;dry&quot; over time, turning less flexible and prone to cracks. A less flexible pad is less capable of creating friction. I know of some rubber (or rubber-like) products that when degraded turn to a thick paste that will stain fabrics, skin, etc. but never seen a brake pad degrade this way, if that where the case, it would not last eve one braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To test a V-Brake pad press hard with your fingernail on its working surface. You should be able to sink the fingernail just a little bit, leaving a pressure mark that will shortly disappear. If it feels hard, wood-like, almost sure you are better discarding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, pad age is not the only factor that can degrade braking performance. Dirt and grease on pad or rim for example. I recommend washing them with liquid dish washing soap. Another factor is calibration. Brake pads not properly aligned may will not perform as designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there are different rubber formulas for aluminum or steel rims, (And for carbon fiber I guess) and I have tested pads that work wonders on steel are worthless on aluminum. Also have observed that the same pad can perform differently on aluminum rims made of different alloys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;lt; End of answer and begin of anecdote &gt;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I committed the mistake of trying to slowly descend a long pronounciated slope with a road bike from 1984 that still had the original pads (The ones it was originally sold with). The result was the friction generated was so poor that they only caused the rims to heat up to the point that both inner tubes were blown out. One rim was steel and the other a single wall aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T21:01:06.403" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21330" CreationDate="2014-04-25T22:35:38.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there were friction it'd be the exact same (remember the hammer and feather on the moon deal). However - your net drag isn't really going to be proportional to your mass. The air resistance isn't proportional at all to your mass (although the rolling drag is). Due to this, you'll have less drag per kilogram with more weight which will cause you to go faster, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11066" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T22:35:38.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21330" CreationDate="2014-04-26T00:19:39.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/21332/8273&quot;&gt;Chris's post&lt;/a&gt; for the long answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason for this &quot;answer&quot; is to encourage &lt;strong&gt;great caution&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a teenager (in the previous millennium), I grew up in hilly area. There were two descents we used to do regularly - a two mile run from my friends farm to home, and a &lt;em&gt;steep&lt;/em&gt; hill of one mile. My best time to get home was 2:11, with lots of pedaling (I wont mention passing the cars). On the steep hill we would crack 1 minute with no pedaling. The point is &lt;strong&gt;we were young and stupid&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, my brother met some similar aged kids, who were keen on descending a serious hill we know, as fast as possible. Although he advised against it, they did it anyway. One &lt;strong&gt;crashed and smashed his skull&lt;/strong&gt;. From our own experience on that hill, he would have been doing about 60kph. Only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention &lt;strong&gt;30%&lt;/strong&gt;. That's steep:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HW1oy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The sign says &amp;quot;3 drains&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steep part is where the road drops out of sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final cautionary point is bike stability and brakes. Bike brakes are &lt;strong&gt;not designed for those speeds&lt;/strong&gt;. And your frame geometry is an unknown factor - will it &quot;get the wobbles&quot;? The only way of you knowing is to do it. Problem is, if it does you'll most likely crash. &lt;strong&gt;Hard&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-04-26T00:19:39.343" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-26T02:29:13.030" Score="10" ViewCount="3757" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of days back, on our way to California (in a car), my wife and I passed a unicyclist going the other direction, uphill, on a fairly challenging section of Route 66.  (I think we were in Arizona.)  The guy had on his back a LARGE backpack that, based on my experiences Scouting, probably weighed 40-60 pounds, maybe more.  No idea how far he had traveled so far, but presumably he was out for a multi-day trip (on roads that would exceed 6% grade for miles at a time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the records for unicycle travel?  Are there any unsupported cross-country trips on record?  How common is unicycle touring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T21:08:53.380" Title="Unicycle touring -- how common?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;unicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17816" CreationDate="2014-04-26T05:15:18.303" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kmcchain.eu/products-connectors-missing_links&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KMC Missing Link&lt;/a&gt;, it bent as I changed gears under load. Stupid me! But with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/powerlink-gold-chain-connector-9-speed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SRAM PowerLink&lt;/a&gt;, I did same thing, and so far so good. However disconnecting regularly was a real nightmare.  Now I grease pins before assembly and the problem is gone.  I have reused eight to 10 times to rotate chains on 9 speed.  Have started same method on 10 speed, and so far so good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11068" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T17:03:33.563" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T17:03:33.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21344" CreationDate="2014-04-26T12:28:11.693" Score="0" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a year ago I bought a Canyon Yellowstone 4.0, just after moving to Germany. I found it was a relatively good bike for the money, I've had a great time on it and I use it mainly for getting around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to it (no longer available on the Canyon website).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://controlbike.com/bike/2013-canyon-yellowstone-al-4-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://controlbike.com/bike/2013-canyon-yellowstone-al-4-0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend now wants to get herself a bike, and my bike fits her pretty well. Is it suitable as a bike for females? She's pretty comfortable on it although I will have to change the seat for her to a female seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, would it be suitable for her to try to use or are there any glaringly obvious factors I have not considered? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11070" LastActivityDate="2014-04-26T15:35:32.830" Title="Canyon Yellowstone 4.0 suitable for women?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21343" CreationDate="2014-04-26T15:19:46.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The distinction between women's specific and regular bikes isn't a hard rule, and you don't need a women's specific bike for a woman. Many women use standard bicycles without any problems, though just like men, they may need to tweak stem length, handlebar height, saddle width and height and position (usually, women's geometry bikes have a combination of this, along with a shorter top tube (and more sloping) and different head tube angle+length and seat tube angle+length - theres also a healthy dose of marketing). The idea is that women have longer legs, shorter torsos and arms for a given height and wider sit bones in general. There are also some men who use women's geometry bicycles, but this is rarer (primarily cause men's bicycles are more common, and better looking). Men using &quot;women's seats&quot; is decently common though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it fits her well, there aren't any problems. If it doesn't fit her well, look at other bikes (not necessarily women specific).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-04-26T15:35:32.830" LastActivityDate="2014-04-26T15:35:32.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21346" CreationDate="2014-04-26T20:20:12.017" Score="9" ViewCount="22656" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the wheel will fit in the drops, will a rear wheel (minus the freewheel/cassette) work for a front wheel?  What kind of problems could this present?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I happen to have a spare back wheel for my bike (without the freewheel on it) and wonder could I if my front gets totaled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T04:20:45.233" Title="Does a rear wheel work up front?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21345" CreationDate="2014-04-26T21:37:59.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bikes use 100mm in the front and 130/135mm in the back, so its unlikely it would fit unless you knew a priori that your bike was one that could have it fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some bikes are designed for running &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/hub_fork_and_disc_brake_compatibility&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rear hubs in the front&lt;/a&gt; (Surly Moonlander/Pugsley, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A non-Fat Bike case is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/culture/enabler_fork_-_jack-of-all-trades_master_of_many&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Salsa Enabler&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T01:12:53.017" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T01:12:53.017" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21330" CreationDate="2014-04-27T00:00:29.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be half-remembered physics coming into play here, but I've raced (substantially heavier) friends down hills where they've been on bikes which should - be all accounts - be slower than my own, yet they've won. Could momentum come into play over rougher terrain? By that, I mean if a rider carrying a heavier weight were to hit a bump, or hole etc, they would experience less deceleration due to their increased momentum compared to a rider with a lighter weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a perfect vacuum, of course, acceleration remains at 9.81 m/s/s and, as such, mass would have no impact on velocity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I tried to post this in a comment, but I don't have enough reputation yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10647" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T00:00:29.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21088" CreationDate="2014-04-27T11:50:58.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need a Shimano PressFit BB, to go with Shimao cranks.&#xA;Shimano and SRAM just don't share the same spindle specs. It won't cost you much however, compared to the price of the crankset.&#xA;If you don't have the dedicated tools at hand, go to your LBS and make them work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11077" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T11:50:58.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21294" CreationDate="2014-04-27T12:18:44.487" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people who say that their maximum is 1,600 watts won’t put out 1,600. My maximum is 1,580, and that is a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoted like that, the 1580watt number will be for 1 second most likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 second is the typical recording rate of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.srm.de/products/powercontrol/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SRM PowerControl units&lt;/a&gt; (same with the Garmin Edge). So unless a duration is specified, &amp;quot;maximum&amp;quot; will refer to the highest recorded sample in the file&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the PowerControl can record faster than 1 sample/second, but the higher rates are typically only used for analysing events like standing starts in track racing, not for 200km road-race stages, where 0.25 second resolution is excessive)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsscientists.com/2014/07/profile-sprint-take-win-sprint-stage/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;The profile of a sprint&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; gives some specific numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sprint peak power output was 1248±122 W (range: 989-1443 W), and the average power was 1020±77 W (865-1140 W) for a duration of 13±2 s (9.0-17.0 s). These data fall within the range of previously published data where, for example, a peak power of 1097 W and 1370±51 W were reported for won sprints. The peak speed reached during the sprints was 66.1±3.4 (57.1-70.6), slightly lower than the expected; however, the speed data were in agreement with previously published data (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19255451&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;J Martin 2007&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jsc-journal.com/ojs/index.php?journal=JSC&amp;amp;page=article&amp;amp;op=view&amp;amp;path%5B%5D=60&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Menaspa 2013&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole article is worth reading, and it backs up the quote from your question &amp;quot;It’s not watts, and it’s not just my frontal area in a sprint&amp;quot;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know that the highest sprint power is not always the race winner, because there is no correlation at all between the two outcomes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practical terms, such a reduction in CdA (~10%) can result in more than three metres advantage over a 14 seconds sprint. Based solely on these data, it becomes obvious why there were no correlations between absolute power (Watts) and race results&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tactical variables may be as important as, or even more important than, power alone. A recent case study showed that a good position in the bunch and team support are important factors for road sprint performances (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23038704&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Menaspa 2013&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T05:36:06.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21330" CreationDate="2014-04-27T13:05:59.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a practical sense, increased weight will make you go downhill faster, for the same reason decreasing weight will make you go uphill faster&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gribble.org/cycling/power_v_speed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this interactive calculator&lt;/a&gt;. If you set the gradient to &quot;-10&quot;, set &quot;Power P (watts)&quot; to 0.001 (i.e almost zero):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With rider weight set to 50kg you will go about 59.54km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With rider weight set to 75kg you will go about 71.22km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With rider weight set to 100kg you will go about 81.25km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However that is a fairly massive increase in weight. Increasing your body weight that much would be &quot;unhealthy&quot;, and increasing the bike weight would very likely negatively influence handling..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller increases in weight (a few kilograms etc) will increase your speed downhill somewhat.. but it would probably be far more productive to work on reducing aerodynamic drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An extreme example would be a recumbent bicycle (much smaller frontal area than a typical road bike, and can have an outer shell to further reduce drag), however there are plenty of other ways to do this, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYAjF4Niz6E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like adopting rather unsafe positions on the bike&lt;/a&gt;, or wearing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/au/gear/article/best-aero-helmets-34859/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;funny shaped helmets&lt;/a&gt; and more aerodynamic clothing (triathlon/timetrial skinsuits)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T13:05:59.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-27T15:40:08.263" Score="5" ViewCount="8362" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than attempting to estimate whether a chainring or cog is worn and needs replaced by eyballing it, is there any way to &lt;b&gt;measure&lt;/b&gt; the wear on chainrings or cassette cogs so you can determine whether they should be replaced?  What tools can be used to accomplish this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2018-09-05T21:50:34.800" Title="How to measure chainring / cog wear?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21363" CreationDate="2014-04-27T17:57:07.187" Score="4" ViewCount="2584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be re-taping my bars for the first time soon, and I was thinking about a putting an extra layer of tape for just slightly increased diameter and padding. I have big hands, but I don't want the padding kits that are available, as I think that might be too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this under-taping at all common? I was thinking about using cloth medical-style tape. Would this be a good choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't race, just exercise/commute/day-trip, will be getting compact drop-bars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T12:42:33.427" Title="handlebar under-tape (extra layer)?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9509" CreationDate="2014-04-27T19:59:33.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a noticeable difference in leg length and a session with a bike set up professional, resolved the issue on my road bike by switching to Speedplay pedals and using their cleats and shims.  It is not just a question of making the stack height correct but also the fore/aft position of the cleat on the shoe. Using different cranks lengths is not the correct solution.  Although a professional bike set up session is not cheap, it does ensure that all factors (eg, saddle height, arm reach, leg angle at maximum extension etc) are measured and adjusted to give you your optimum riding position.  Well worth the cost to minimize the risk of long term injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11082" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T19:59:33.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21365" CreationDate="2014-04-27T21:10:56.543" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zweirad-stadler.com/shop/bulls/bulls-mtb-rahmen-black-adder-1.html,a28700&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bull's Black Adder 1 26 Inch frame&lt;/a&gt; and quite some time ago got a present Shimano Deore Lx FC M-583 crankset (brackets included). I know they are not a perfect match, but still would like to assemble together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: (1) What's the orientation of the brackets? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: (2) How many spaces on the left and the right side do I need to put? There are 4 spacers that came together with the crankset..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6541" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T00:19:21.543" Title="assembling brackets and front crankset: how many spacers and orientation" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;front&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-27T22:38:19.423" Score="4" ViewCount="4463" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to remove a seized quill stem and did a beginner's mistake of removing the stem bolt.&#xA;I could not thread back the bolt.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to thread back the bolt to the wedge for me to start all over again the process of removing the quill stem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10597" LastEditorUserId="5202" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T17:17:36.267" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T23:03:43.857" Title="Dropped the Wedge of a quill stem in the head tube" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21360" CreationDate="2014-04-27T22:43:12.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried removing the stem so you have better access to the wedge? Often if you do that you can screw the bolt in and pull the wedge out, then reassemble it away from the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other approach is to again lift the stem out, remove the front wheel, then turn the bike over and push the wedge out from the fork side. If you have a front mudguard you will need to remove that too, but almost always the bottom of the steerer tube is open so you can get the stem bolt or another long, thin object against the wedge and push it out that way. You may need to hammer it a bit, so preferably use a long punch or spare bolt, rather than the stem bolt that you need to make it all work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T22:43:12.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21341" CreationDate="2014-04-27T23:03:51.950" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unsupported unicycle touring is not very common because it doesn't work very well - you really need to carry more stuff than can comfortably be carried in a backpack while unicycling, which limits the amount of time on the uni, which in turn limits how far you can go. As well, unis are slower than bikes which further limits distances. Towing a trailer kind of defeats the point of a uni, and makes the whole process very difficult. But that's what you need if you want to carry more than a days food and water. That said, people regularly manage 50-60km a day, so it is possible to tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87924&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;These two managed 3500km&lt;/a&gt; across Australia, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84052&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;unicycle forums&lt;/a&gt; are where you'll find most of the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DqPHr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DqPHr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A unicyclist on a record breaking tour of North and South America has reached British Columbia, after biking more than 22,000 kilometres on one wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cary Gray of St. Louis, Mo., set off on his epic journey on July 1, 2013 and has already spanned 11 countries: U.S., Canada, Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, and Colombia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Panama, Gray broke the Guinness World Record for Longest Unicycle Journey,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/travelling-unicyclist-cary-gray-reaches-b-c-on-record-breaking-american-journey-1.2818696&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(via CBC News)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkqGu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkqGu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pinterest.com/pin/390405861421973288/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;guy via Pinterest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of the &amp;quot;unicycle touring&amp;quot; I've been able to find is fully supported - it's one or two people on unicycles, followed by at least one motor vehicle carrying all their gear. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unicycling-act.org.au/news/samuel-johnsons-unicycling-around-australia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This guy&lt;/a&gt; rode 15,478km across Australia and also claims to hold the Guinness world record (that site is all about the fundraising effort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit) Also, the legalities can be difficult - in many countries unicycles are technically not allowed on the road, or the rules are bizarre (unicycles are bicycles, so riders must keep at least one hand on the handlebars at all times, for example, or must have two brakes). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9279&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;In Australia&lt;/a&gt; and New Zealand, for example, they are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.comlaw.gov.au/Details/F2006L00240&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sometimes &amp;quot;bicycles&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://transport.nt.gov.au/safety/road-safety/road-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;other times &amp;quot;wheeled recreational devices&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; which must be ridden on the footpath. I've not seen those rules enforced in either country, but they exist. I suspect if a unicyclist was hit by a car they'd be treated even worse than a cyclist in the same position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T21:08:53.380" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21355" CreationDate="2014-04-27T23:12:30.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=Double%20wrapping%20bicycle%20handlebar&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Double taping&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=Double%20taping%20bicycle%20handlebar&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;double wrapping&lt;/a&gt; is definitely common, and as with all things bicycle there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/23425-double-wrapping-handlebars.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;various opinions&lt;/a&gt; on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/forum/board/message/?thread_id=70651&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;best way&lt;/a&gt; to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do it mostly for comfort, although as with many others I do have hands big enough to comfortably hold the bars when they're bulked up like that (I'm using two layers of foam tape rather than an under-layer of cotton tape).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure there's much advantage to using a layer of non-padded tape, but if it works for you go for it. It's easy enough to remove, so at worst you've lost whatever you paid for the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I usually do is buy bargain-bin tape for the bottom layer because no-one sees it, and I'll often wrap top-down because I think that works better. I don't tuck the first set of tape into the bar at the bottom, only the outer layer starts tucked in. And I'll often run the outer layer a turn further up towards the stem so it's anchored onto the bar rather than just the first layer of tape. I get that extra tape by only wrapping round the brake levers as little as possible (ie, I don't do the extra figure-8 around the levers), partly because the extra padding often spoils the feel of the levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-04-27T23:21:50.433" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T23:21:50.433" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17440" CreationDate="2014-04-27T23:58:59.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem and found that the 6603-52T, made for the 10-speed Ultegra, works just fine on the 9-speed triple. BCD was 130.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11027" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T23:58:59.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21358" CreationDate="2014-04-28T00:19:21.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cup marked L goes on the left-hand side of the frame (the non-drive side) and consequently the cup marked R goes on the right-hand side. Make sure you tighten the cups in the correct direction (the drive side cup is reverse threaded) and be sure not to cross thread the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the spacers, I presume that the frame has a bottom bracket width of 73 mm (although you should measure it to be sure), and you're going to use a front derailleur that clamps on to the seat tube. In that case, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Deore-LX/SI_6JXFE_002/SI_6JXFE_002_En_v1_m56577569830638259.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano service instructions for FC-M583&lt;/a&gt; state that you should use one 2.5 mm spacer between the frame and the drive-side cup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10272" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T00:19:21.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-28T00:20:51.053" Score="1" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have traditional drop bars and cross (interrupter) brake levers. I like the interrupters and use them a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm going to get a compact drop bar (FSA Omega Compact bar on order), and in trying to envision this new setup, it seems the interrupters might be less useful with compact bars because my hands, even on the cross bar, will be closer to the (regular) brakes.  Plus the &quot;cockpit&quot; area, being more compact with compact bars, might be overly cluttered with interrupters in there. Plus with a compact bar I suspect I'll have my hands on the cross bar less of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all it seems interrupter brakes are less desirable on a compact drop bar than they are on a traditional drop bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone use interrupter brake levers on a compact bar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T16:17:09.987" Title="Are cross brake levers with compact drop bar redundant?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21345" CreationDate="2014-04-28T04:20:45.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ignoring the dropout width and axle size, absolutely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear wheel supports far more weight than front wheels, so using a rear wheel up front will be perfectly fine, albeit funny looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T04:20:45.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21353" CreationDate="2014-04-28T04:39:21.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because there exist so many cassette styles and tooth profiles, no universal tool for measuring cassette wear exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One good advice to assist visual inspection is this. We all have our favorite speeds. Compare the most worn 2-3 cogs with the rest. If their profile is very different, the cassete is probably worn. The video documents how to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many variables in determining whether you have a worn chainring or cassette. Visual inspection helps and noting the kilometres racked up should also help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have set up your mech's correctly you will know you have wear when your chain starts to skip, especially under load. Visual inspection should then confirm your wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Park Tools do a CHAIN wear tool [CC-2] but that will not determine cassette or chainring wear.  When replacing a cassette you should always replace the chain. Worn chains will reduce the life of cassettes and chainrings considerable due to the chain being worn to the form of the previous cassette/chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video of the pro's confirming the above: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/a-7SWfQeqXI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&#xA;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11085" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T13:13:44.593" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T13:13:44.593" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21360" CreationDate="2014-04-28T08:41:59.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have managed to remove the bars then reassemble outside the bike and insert stem and wedge loosely assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have not managed to remove the stem then you need to invert the bike and get the wedge arranged and then insert the bolt through the top (that is now on the bottom). Sometimes you can use a long bolt from underneath - remove front wheel and mudguard as Mo suggests - to engage the threads and hold the wedge in place while you put the retaining bolt down as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T08:41:59.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21316" CreationDate="2014-04-28T09:55:18.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I still don't understand why people are so anxious to get the pressure right to the last millibar. It will vary with load, temperature and time anyway, even on a relatively short ride of only a couple of km. As long as it's more or less correct, that's good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For road bikes (~8 bar/116 psi typical tire pressure), a 0.2 bar/3 psi difference is absolutely acceptable IMHO. On an MTB, which runs far lower pressures, less is better, but as the tires are far bigger, a pump stroke will also not put that much more pressure on them. In the end, I try to end up within ~3% of the target, which has served me well the last 20 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what @Remy said in his comment is the way to go. Prestas will click open when the pressure in the hose surpasses that in the tube. So don't lean on your pump with full force until that happens and you're good to go. Also, most floor pumps designed for road bikes don't have the volume to make your tires burst with just one stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastEditorUserId="3186" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T14:01:45.147" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T14:01:45.147" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21373" CreationDate="2014-04-28T10:28:07.300" Score="5" ViewCount="1044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I clean my chain on the bicycle, mostly because taking it off for a bath, drying, etc seems to take more time than I have. But maybe I could use 2 chains in rotation, I would take one chain off, replace it with second clean one, and during the days that follow would slowly clean it to be ready for next cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any drawbacks to such approach regarding the wear of cogs, or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastEditorUserId="23117" LastEditDate="2015-10-17T21:50:11.443" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T21:50:11.443" Title="Rotating two chains on one cassette" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21371" CreationDate="2014-04-28T11:34:49.200" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is actually a real gain from this strategy. By rotating 2 (or 3) chains you extend the life of rear cogs (cassette) and it will last all your chains. In case you use one chain, you may need to replace cassette together with chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of front cogs, they last longer, but you will get a more even wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of drawbacks - regularly taking off your chain you can make your PowerLink (or other brand) a bit more loose and have a higher risk of it failing under a load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T11:34:49.200" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21353" CreationDate="2014-04-28T12:34:35.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are tools such as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rohloff.de/en/products/tools/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rohloff HG-check&lt;/a&gt; for measuring cassette wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course there is visual inspection and also how it rides and indexes, particularly under heavy load (when it will usually slip if worn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11090" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T17:35:56.920" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T17:35:56.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21366" CreationDate="2014-04-28T13:22:50.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally a compact bar refers to the drops, not the width of the bar. The drop levers and interrupter levers will most likely be nearly the same distance apart. Your preference is all that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8771" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T13:22:50.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21379" CreationDate="2014-04-28T13:27:27.287" Score="3" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a Globe Work 2, and I'm digging it, but I'm at a loss for what is going on with my rear axle.  I took a couple of pics (below), so I'm hoping someone can tell me what I've got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the spec sheet, I'm supposed to have &quot;REAR HUBDouble-sealed, loose ball, dual-lock nuts, steel axle, QR, 32h&quot;, but that doesn't look like a QR to me, and I don't know what dual-lock nuts are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, any ideas about what this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QbqQR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Lqut.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11091" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T15:14:01.667" Title="Funky Rear Axle. Need help Identifying" Tags="&lt;axle&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21316" CreationDate="2014-04-28T14:46:49.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pressure dial doesn't measure the pressure in the tube - it gives the pressure in the entire system (tube + hose).  When you connect your pump, you need to pressurize the hose to the same level as the tube before it will read anything.  I usually find this takes two or three full pumps, and the resistance jumps up massively once the tube and tire have the same pressure. At that point, the dial will show you the pressure in your tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T14:46:49.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2014-04-28T15:12:32.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecityguide.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikecityguide&lt;/a&gt; - available on both iOS and Android.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its maps &amp;amp; routing are based on OpenStreetMap so if a certain bike route is not available on the map you could add it yourself. They have a couple of city packs - if your city fits that then you're in luck (I goes you could use it in any other city, but those city packs are really bike optimized).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cool feature they have is the fact that use bike adapted turn-by-turn navigation instructions (see the app and you'll understand) and they also work offline (good to have while traveling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11092" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T15:12:32.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21376" CreationDate="2014-04-28T15:14:01.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like an attaching point for some kind of trailer, maybe a single wheel trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T15:14:01.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-28T15:30:18.670" Score="2" ViewCount="3733" Body="&lt;p&gt;What factors should one look for when purchasing a speedometer? Does wired vs wireless or anything else factor into its accuracy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4277" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T17:36:22.620" Title="Bike Speedometer Accuracy" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ClosedDate="2014-04-29T17:41:03.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21380" CreationDate="2014-04-28T16:39:39.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume we're not talking about some low-price, no-name thing from a Walmart sale but about one from one of the more common speedometer selling companies (cyclosport, sigma, garmin, to name a few). With those, I don't think that there will be significant differences in accuracy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also wired vs. wireless should not make a difference by itself (unless the batteries of the transmitter get weak on a wireless one, of course). In former times (15 years ago or so), I had some issues with a wireless speedometer when crossing or riding right beside electrified railway tracks, where the transmission seemingly was confused by noise from the railroad's power line. Nowadays I would guess that wireless speedometers use digitally encoded signals so this issue should be gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T16:39:39.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21380" CreationDate="2014-04-29T14:25:37.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think accuracy is a problem, even with cheap ones. I tested my first one (cheap chinese) against Google Earth and the marks on the road (every 100 m) on a paved straight road over a 15 km ride, and the differences are minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap models only let you specify the nominal wheel size in inches. Better ones present a list with all relevant wheel sizes (inches plus variants like 700c, etc). The best ones let you input the actual size of your wheel (you have to measure it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose one with a good screen (high constrast, big digits). Cheap ones are illegible under not ideal circunstances, and some models are very easy to reset if you accidentally touch the wrong button (that happens to me some many times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like wireless, by the way: too many problems and no benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T15:53:19.090" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T15:53:19.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21380" CreationDate="2014-04-29T17:36:22.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most speedometers are accurate as long as you input/set the right wheel size!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used very cheap ones, and they allow me to set the wheel size in milimeters, and after checking the same path with two different cars, the difference is minimal compared to what I had with the bicycle (in a 25Km ride the difference was only 10 meters compared to the cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the wired and wireless, my opinion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wireless:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less wires;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Portability (I can put it into another bicycle very&#xA;easily, no wires to worry about).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wireless that I've used (cheap ones) normally have interference caused by the road &quot;radars&quot; (I don't really know the proper name), or even my mobile phone (if I put it close to the receiver);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More batteries needed! (since the emmiter is not connected and needs to send the signal via radio, it needs another battery, so two in total).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wired:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No interference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less batteries needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More wires (most are very long and I have to make a small &quot;pack&quot; with the remainder)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less portable (I need to take all the wires and refit them into the new bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer the wireless due to the less wires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T17:36:22.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-29T17:42:27.030" Score="3" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a old bike of mine that I want to fix up for my younger brother. I don't know the brand, it just says Shogun racing on it (I haven't used it in ages and it was a gift.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had the factory default brakes on it and they both snapped off, leaving the bike brakeless, and this is what I want to fix. When it broke I removed the parts that remained and threw away the broken ones (the handles and the pieces of plastic that connect the brakes to the brake wires,) as they were getting in the way. All of the wires are still on, just the handles and and pads are removed and the tension released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to know is, do bikes require specific brake types? Do you have to have a brand/make-specific brake, or can I just get a generic one off, say Amazon or my local bike shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11098" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T07:35:53.110" Title="Do bikes require a specific brake type?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21387" CreationDate="2014-04-29T17:50:52.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brakes are usually standard!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It comes down to three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame options/brake type&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a frame with a &quot;connector&quot; for a v-brake, it won't be&#xA;possible to fit a caliper brake type (and vice-versa). Or if it&#xA;has no way to connect a disk-brake, then no way to use it without a&#xA;proper adapter (or even impossible to do it); you even have frames&#xA;without connectors for the brakes (ex: when the brakes are in the&#xA;wheel itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to try to indetify which type of brake it uses, and from&#xA;there get a standard one (as long as it &quot;answers&quot; the next two&#xA;points, wheel size and type of bicycle)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheel size&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wheel is too big or too small for a v-brake type (for&#xA;example) then no way you can use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the frame &quot;connector&quot; for the v-brake (for example) if it is&#xA;too small for a certain wheel rim, there is no way it will work&#xA;unless you use the right size.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Type of bicycle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a really old or out of the ordinary bicycle, the standard&#xA;brakes may not work, and you will need to find suitable/custom/old&#xA;ones...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastEditorUserId="1280" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T07:35:53.110" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T07:35:53.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21391" CreationDate="2014-04-29T20:26:20.567" Score="1" ViewCount="1783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this old Batavus sprint bike sitting in the shed for years, and recently got into road racing. So I've bought a newish used modern road race bike and recently upgraded it's wheels. Since the old wheels were just lying around I tried fitting them to the good 'ol Batavus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were a little squeeze (research has shown there's a 4mm difference.. 126mm vs 130mm on the newer ones), but I got them in fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the only problem is is that there's no cassette on the rear wheel I fitted. My question is, can I fit the old cassette on this new wheel? Or will the cassette body be totally different? Or can a cassette body be transferred to the new wheel? I'm not sure how that stuff works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Shimano 600 6-speed setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11101" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T01:37:10.937" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T11:53:12.777" Title="Old 6 speed casette on a new modern wheel" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21293" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:09:38.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to bike across Pennsylvania this summer and I am having trouble finding good roads to use for biking.  Then I hit upon the idea of Google street view (and the Microsoft version of it).  Using street view has been a fantastic help for me!  I have found a route that has paved shoulders for my entire north/south route!  And that was in a couple hours.  My plan is to spend more time looking for alternate routes over the next week or two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8288" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T22:09:38.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21389" CreationDate="2014-04-29T22:32:40.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old &quot;cassette&quot; is most likely a freewheel. You can see the difference between a cassette and freewheel &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, I don't think you will be able to use the old freewheel on the newish wheels (they probably take cassettes). You can just buy a new cassette though (they're cheap), assuming what I said was correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T22:32:40.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15765" CreationDate="2014-04-30T01:06:33.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a 50/34 with a 12-25 and I absolutely love it.  My sweet spot for normal training on flats is around 20 mph and the 12-25 gives me a 16 right where I need it, while an 11-25 or 11-28 omits the 16 leaving a big gap.  For me, I care more about even gear spacing near my normal speed than I do about having a very high or very low gear that I will rarely use.  For example, 50 x 11 at 90 rpm on 700x23 tires = 31.6 mph, which I only do down a big hill or a huge tailwind.  So I gave up the 11 to get the 16, giving me a nice evenly spaced range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the original question, I have not yet encountered a hill where 34 x 25 wasn't low enough.  But... I mostly ride in central Illinois.  If I lived in Colorado I'm sure it would be a different story!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11105" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T01:06:33.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-30T04:33:56.953" Score="2" ViewCount="1539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Sports Tracker Smart heart rate monitor that communicates via Bluetooth. Then I saw the cadence sensor that also measures speed and distance plus it communicates with Bluetooth Smart. I did some research and found out that there's a communication standard called ANT+. Neither of these devices support it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use these simultaneously with my phone that has Bluetooth Smart? Currently the Sports Tracker cadence sensor is not supported with Android (or not with their software at least. Maybe with something like Runtastic Road Bike) but they plan to release a software update in summer that makes it work on Android. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what softwares on Android you know that can support this combo? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11107" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T17:04:11.457" Title="Multiple Bluetooth Smart sensors for bike?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;&lt;software&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21393" CreationDate="2014-04-30T05:16:58.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found driod support for these kinds of sensors to be patchy at best and not yet what I consider ready for prime time. Manufacturer provided software is often crap, third party often don't support the hardware. Many claims of features and devices suppported apply to the iPhone versions only. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I current use Digifit iCardio on my driod phone with Scorche sensors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I found: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bluetooth and ANT+ are completely different and incompatable technlogy. &#xA;The Andriod Version on your phone, manufacturer and model can be important. &#xA;Many manuals etc are for the iPhone version, when the driod version is quite different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall its a currently a crap shoot if things work as they are supposed to. You could waste a lot of time, or it might &quot;just work&quot; if you are really lucky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T05:16:58.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21387" CreationDate="2014-04-30T05:45:12.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically there are three styles of bike brakes (aside from disk brakes):  Old style calipers, cantilevers, and V-brakes.  Calipers are a single unit that mounts on a single bolt above the top of the wheel, cantis and V-brakes are two separate pieces that mount on &quot;bosses&quot; on either side of the wheel.  Cantis have short arms and a &quot;yoke&quot; cable between them that the main cable pulls on, while V-brakes have arms that reach above the wheel and a single cable that comes in from one side through a J-shaped metal &quot;noodle&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calipers are the oldest style are are rarely used anymore.  Cantilever brakes are still seen on some touring bikes but are becoming rarer.  V-brakes are by far the most common style these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the brake levers, there is a significant difference, based on the brake design:  Caliper and cantilever brakes both have about the same cable &quot;pull&quot; to go from no brake to fully applied, while V-brakes require about twice as much cable &quot;pull&quot;.  So you must use a brake lever designed for the type of brake installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, in addition the brake lever must be suitable for the handlebar type, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T05:45:12.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21293" CreationDate="2014-04-30T07:22:25.983" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeroutetoaster.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bike Route Toaster&lt;/a&gt; and make sure you are using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openstreetmap.org&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Open Street Maps&lt;/a&gt; Cycling version (&quot;Open Cycle Map).  As part of the route finding options under &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openstreetmap.org&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Open Street Maps&lt;/a&gt; there is an &quot;Avoid unpaved roads/paths&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ZLK2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have successfully used &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeroutetoaster.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bike Route Toaster&lt;/a&gt; with a Garmin 800 in the past.  I planned out a 1000 km journey across Norway on back roads, gravel (eek!) and paths.  It was amazing how well it worked, thanks to the all the hard effort of volunteers around the world who contribute to the cycling version of open street maps.  I only had one minor hiccup in all those miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T07:22:25.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-30T09:44:01.597" Score="7" ViewCount="21340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a repair question. I am experiencing some slipping when I pedal, once-per rotation, however, it is not the normal chain/gear skipping that I have read about most of the time. The bike is an old steel frame Bianci, with 18 gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slip is subtle, less than one chain link for sure, accompanied by no audible noise or jarring.  I can only &quot;feel&quot; it through my feet in the pedal.  Also, it does NOT have to do with how hard I am pedaling, if I pedal slowly while rolling so that its freewheeling, I can still feel the slip, which feels like a different &quot;texture&quot; while pedaling. I hope that makes sense, I cannot think of a better way to describe it. It seems to not happen all the time (about 80%), but I have not been able to correlate when it happens to a specific gear combination for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tightened all the bolts on my chainring and in the rear derailleur, but that did not fix it. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11109" LastEditorUserId="10534" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T14:03:22.677" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T00:59:43.573" Title="Slipping when pedalling" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21407" CreationDate="2014-04-30T12:53:09.720" Score="4" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in becoming a bike mechanic in Melbourne, Victoria, Australia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping there's an industry body which runs courses to certify bike mechanics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really hoping it's not just learn on the job from an existing mechanic because I've had a really bad experience with local mechanics lately they don't have a clue what customer service is when I buy from them and need a return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any courses or certifications to become a bike mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11110" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T18:16:38.853" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T13:00:46.513" Title="How can I get a bike mechanic certification/where can I learn to be a bike mechanic?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lbs&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-30T13:08:15.583" Score="12" ViewCount="86867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think these are both just types of cassettes, one all the rings come apart, and the other it's just one big piece all welded together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please tell me what the difference is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11110" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T11:36:12.943" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T16:45:47.940" Title="What is the difference between a freewheel and a hub?" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-30T13:14:30.057" Score="2" ViewCount="2602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took apart my rear derailleur as it was on a 10 year old bike and really old and stiff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought I would unscrew both jockey wheels and clean them, they had a silver bit either side, but then when I tightened them back up in the derailleur two things happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I completely tightened the bolts on the jockey wheels and derailleur and then the jockey wheels wouldn't turn freely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Or I didn't completely tighten the bolts on both jockey wheels, and they would turn, so the chain would move.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up going with the second option, Until after a few days of riding the derailleur jockey wheel screw came loose while riding and I lost the silver part on the inside of the jockey wheel. After not being able to replace the silver part on the wheel I bought a new derailleur .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can derailleur be taken apart and cleaned if really stiff and dirty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HOW DO YOU PUT THEM BACK TOGETHER AGAIN PROPERLY SO THEY DON'T FALL APART&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some mechanics say don't take them apart. But I say... super stiff and its an allen key bolt designed to be undone. Otherwise why don't they rivet it together?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Others say you can, but use Lock-Tite. I shouldn't need that I don't think or I will end up in scenario (1) again, jockey wheels not moving inside derailleur and chain getting caught.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11110" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T18:13:00.013" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T01:11:49.713" Title="Can you take apart rear derailleurs, and how do you put them back together again?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21399" CreationDate="2014-04-30T13:15:58.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you are not asking the question that you think you are. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for the difference between a cassette and a freewheel. A hub is the center point of the wheel that the freewheel or cassette attaches to. And sorry if I misinterpreted your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T13:15:58.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21397" CreationDate="2014-04-30T13:21:19.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds most likely that the pawls on your (assuming) freewheel are starting to go. These are the mechanisms inside of your freewheel that let it spin one way, but not the other. Sometimes a little grease may help, and sometimes you just need to get a new one. It's hard to check yourself though, because really the only way to narrow this down is to get another freewheel and try that one instead. You'll need specialty tools to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T13:21:19.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21398" CreationDate="2014-04-30T13:27:36.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll tackle the question of where you can learn. Do an online seach and find out if you have a bike co-op nearby. Most decently sized US cities have them. They're a great resource where you can just show up one day per week and learn everything there is to know about bikes (and meet some cool people while you're at it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically for you: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebikeshed.org.au/default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thebikeshed.org.au/default.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastEditorUserId="8918" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T14:35:06.313" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T14:35:06.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21398" CreationDate="2014-04-30T13:35:38.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Germany, there's the &quot;Zweiradmechaniker&quot;, which is taught like any other craft, i.e. you learn it from an existing mechanic. You don't need to have this education to open a bike store though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T13:35:38.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21411" CreationDate="2014-04-30T13:45:16.180" Score="7" ViewCount="3837" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/lyrik-r&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lyric&lt;/a&gt; is available as &lt;code&gt;Dual Position Air/ Solo Air / Coil&lt;/code&gt;. What do those terms mean generally? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My speculations are leading me nowhere. If Dual Air means no hydraulic cylinder, how can the fork have &lt;code&gt;Damping:    Rebound&lt;/code&gt;? Solo air is pretty clear, but what about &lt;code&gt;coil&lt;/code&gt; - is it a coil in one boot and hydraulic unit in the other, or two coils?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a related note, do there exist shocks with both air and coil spring in the same time? If so, what is the point? How can one discern them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T23:07:49.273" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T12:05:32.553" Title="Dual position air, solo air, coil, rebound: what do they mean about forks?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21399" CreationDate="2014-04-30T13:47:49.293" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hub is the body at the center of the wheel containing the axle. It is more or less just some bearings in a pair of cups that rotate around the axle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freewheel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;freewheel&lt;/a&gt; is the mechanism that locks when pedaling forward (forcing the wheel to be driven by the chain) and spins freely when coasting or pedaling backward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both wheels have hubs, but only the rear wheel has a freewheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are two variations on freewheel design, taken from the Wikipedia article linked above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/33NWn.png&quot; alt=&quot;older freewheel&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fXUqY.png&quot; alt=&quot;newer freewheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most modern bikes with multiple gears, the freewheel is built into the rear hub and the whole assembly is called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freehub&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;freehub&lt;/a&gt;. The cassette is just a set of gears bolted together, without any moving parts, that slides onto the hub and is held in place with a lockring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On older bikes, the hub was just a hub with some threads on one side. The freewheel was built into the rear gear cluster and that whole assembly screwed onto the hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c9ZW2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;freehub and cassette vs. freewheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single speed bikes are still (typically, though variations exist) built like older bikes, with the freewheel and the gear being one piece and screwing onto the hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to read more, the Freehub article that I linked to on Wikipedia has a section comparing freewheels and freehubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ever helpful Sheldon Brown also has a very detailed &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; (which the above photo was taken from) outlining the difference between freehubs and freewheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:27:56.260" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:27:56.260" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21398" CreationDate="2014-04-30T14:18:07.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycletrainingaustralia.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicycletrainingaustralia.com.au/&lt;/a&gt; is supported by the City of Melbourne. They provide Advanced Bicycle Mechanic Training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cytech.uk.com/about-cytech/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cytech&lt;/a&gt; are the most recognised body; Contact them and ask if they're aware of an equivalent organisation in Australia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T14:18:07.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20850" CreationDate="2014-04-30T14:27:37.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to use slightly different tools I think I can help. You can plot a route with the excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikehike.co.uk/mapview.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeHike&lt;/a&gt; which uses Google Maps data and shows you OS maps alongside. You can then use the route on your phone with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.osmand&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OsmAnd (Android)&lt;/a&gt; app - which offers turn-by-turn voice navigation with offline maps and with your display disabled, saving battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the route out of BikeHike and into OsmAnd is the main problem I think. So far I have found the best approach is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In BikeHike save the route to your PC (GPX track format I think)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transfer the saved track to your phone (I use Google Drive for this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the track to the phone's local storage at /osmand/tracks (install the OsmAnd app first of course)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally open the track in Osmand by switching to bike mode, hitting the bike icon bottom right, select GPX route, then your route should be displayed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have to fiddle about downloading offline maps and voice as well to get OsmAnd setup just right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I don't have enough reputation to post all the links I used to work this out - they have more detailed instructions but can be found with Google. Hopefully this is enough to get you going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11111" LastEditorUserId="11111" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T14:34:39.843" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T14:34:39.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21405" CreationDate="2014-04-30T14:44:42.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been screwing around with a few forks lately, so I'll take a whack at it. Dual position air is actually a technology that lets you change the travel on the fly. I would assume that solo air is also pnematic, but lacking this feature. Coil seems to be completely non-pneumatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are forks that have chambers with air and springs. I know for a fact that the pilot air sl is one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I have no idea&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastEditorUserId="8918" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T12:58:47.020" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T12:58:47.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21393" CreationDate="2014-04-30T17:40:39.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Android can just about handle multiple BTLE sensors simultaneously but there are still some low level Android bugs that make it rather unreliable.  The coding for is also a good bit more complex to get working than the single sensor case.  I have support in my app IpBike via a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iforpowell.com/cms/index.php?page=btle-beta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beta version of IpSensorMan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point in time if you were getting new then an ANT+ based setup is the preferred route.  But if your looking to work with your current phone which is not ANT capable then you would need an ANT USB stick and things get messy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3723" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T17:40:39.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21405" CreationDate="2014-04-30T19:51:52.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two parts to a fork, the spring and the damper. Solo air, dual air and coil are all types of spring and absorb energy when the fork is compressed. The damper, which is the part of the suspension system that removes oscillation after the spring has absorbed energy and is returning, is generally a hydraulic system filled with oil. The Lyric has an oil damper as well as a coil or air spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A modern air spring generally has two chambers one positive and negative, the positive provides resistance against compression and the negative resistance against rebound as the spring returns to it's normal length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solo and Dual air are RockShox terms for their proprietary air spring system and relates to the way the shock is filled, but both are dual chamber. Until Solo air forks became available (2012 or 2013 forks) it was necessary to tune both chambers to get sag and rebound correct, now solo air is a single fill system that does this much more easily. Dual air (as opposed to dual position air) has now been replaced completely by solo air on the RockShox range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dual Position Air&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dual Position Air is another proprietary RockShox technology and is a&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; of air spring that allows for travel to changed between two travel lengths through a lever on the crown. It acts in the same way&#xA;  as a solo air spring but gives the rider greater choice on a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A coil fork uses a mechanical spring in place of an air spring. A coil spring is simply that, a big metal spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefits of the two types are often debated. A dual chamber air spring fork is lighter than a coil spring but requires more tuning. A coil fork has a finite stroke length so the rebound is smoother at the end of the stroke and makes the fork feel more plush throughout the stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be redundant to have both a air spring and coil spring in a fork, as both are springs and neither are dampers. The fork would bounce back and oscillate (bounce up and down like a spring until all energy was released). There have however been bikes with two stage suspension systems like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://2stagebikesnew.cyberstore.co.nz/cs/services.asp?type=14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elite9&lt;/a&gt; which used dual rear shocks and could effectively line up a coil and air spring shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T00:16:22.190" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T00:16:22.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21413" CreationDate="2014-04-30T23:53:01.497" Score="2" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way of working out which way round to apply a chain whip to a cassette for its removal? I've taken plenty of them off in my time but always end up having a couple of tries at it before I put it on the right way round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10500" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T04:32:09.833" Title="Direction of chain whip" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21412" CreationDate="2014-05-01T00:40:43.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not something I do often enough to worry about, but certainly a 'problem' I also have.... One solutiojn that comes to mind is write &quot;Install&quot; and &quot;Remove&quot; in the side of the handle you can see when installing and removing (My luck would be I would get it wrong way round). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T00:40:43.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21400" CreationDate="2014-05-01T01:07:15.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience the metal caps are mated to the wheels, and while the jockey wheels look the same they are not. Every time I have found the wheels not spinning it has been a simple case of having the wheels in the wrong position or being mated with the wrong bearing cover plates. If you have both wheels not spinning then I think you probably have bearing plates swapped; if one turns and one does not then you might have the plates on correctly but the wheels swapped causing the thicker wheel to be clamped tight while the thinner wheel is barely touching the cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never used loctite when reassembling bike parts, just care in assembly and a checkup tensioning after a couple of rides. In fact I often dab a little grease on threads to avoid rust binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably worth buying jockey wheel replacements if you are servicing a 10-year-old derailleur. If it's a Shimano or something else relatively common chances are you can buy original replacements or even fancy anodised aftermarket parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T01:07:15.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-01T01:26:43.063" Score="7" ViewCount="12631" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming no accidents, cuts, or other major traumas, what is the useful life of a typical decent-quality (maybe a Schwalbe Marathon as reference?) road or commuting tire, measured in distance traveled and/or time since installation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, when should my backbrain be niggling at me to get new tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related but not identical: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12736/whats-the-shelf-life-of-tublar-tires&quot;&gt;What&amp;#39;s the shelf life of tublar tires?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T02:23:19.127" Title="What is the lifespan of a typical road tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21415" CreationDate="2014-05-01T02:23:19.127" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#replacement&quot;&gt;Sheldon's take on it&lt;/a&gt;: Your backbrain should be niggling you when you start to get some punctures or the fabric layer/belt (which gives the structure of the tire) of the tire is about to show or is damaged. Unlike a radial, where the tire is integral to keeping the wheel working, all a tire has to do is protect a tube. The rest of the stuff is aesthetic. Proper inflation is important for controlling wear though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_wear&quot;&gt;Schwalbe's marketing material&lt;/a&gt; says that Schwalbe Marathons should last between 6000 km and 12000km, but I'd be inclined to say thats conservative in good riding conditions - I have much lower quality tires than Schwalbe Marathons which are closer to the higher end of that range and show no signs of giving up (this is for commuting, and they have around 7000 miles on them, but this is on a 26&quot; rigid mountain bike so significantly bigger tires than you're likely considering, so maybe not a fair comparison). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T02:23:19.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21412" CreationDate="2014-05-01T02:31:05.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-and-freewheel-removal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&quot;Hold cogs in clockwise direction with sprocket chain whip tool. Turn remover counter-clockwise, using a large adjustable wrench, the hex end of another Park Tool sprocket chain whip tool SR-1, or the Park Tool freewheel wrench FRW-1. It will require force to remove the lockring. Expect to hear a loud clicking sound as the locking teeth of the lockring separate.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I think actually doing the task enough times would instill it (kinda like how &quot;righty tighty, lefty loosy&quot; gets instilled in your mind eventually, without the little mnemonic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T02:31:05.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-01T10:02:50.213" Score="1" ViewCount="29138" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's bicycle has Shimano Revoshift shifters, and while the right (rear) one works fine, the left (front, Friction) has been problematic for a while. Originally, when we bought the bicycle, the left shifter made a clicking sound when it was turned. After a while, it stopped clicking, and since last summer, it has required tons of force to shift from the middle gear to the biggest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to adjust the front derailleur (orientation, height) and the low and high limits, as well as the cable tightness, but nothing seems to remedy the force. This morning, I took the shifter apart, suspecting that something would be broken inside it, but everything seemed OK. I put it back together, but it still doesn't click and I have to use both hands to turn the lever to get it to the biggest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that there's still something wrong going on in the shifter, though. If I gently pull the cable underneath the body, the shifter rotates. It shouldn't do that, should it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact model is Shimano SL-RS35. Thanks for any help in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11122" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T09:30:39.793" Title="RevoShift Friction: shifting to the largest gear takes a lot of force?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21418" CreationDate="2014-05-01T12:30:34.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the revoshifts are actually friction and just don't click period, while others are pseudo-friction (they click in small increments so you can trim your shifts) - I suspect you have the latter. They are also the bargain bin parts (less than 20 dollars for a set), and thus are built with low quality and things often go wrong. Pretty much all you can do is check that the cable tension is OK, the cable isn't caught on anything and the derailleur is set up properly (If the shifter is gunked up, sometimes flushing it with WD40 helps, but thats just a temporary fix).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5111/electra-shifter-revoshift-is-hard-to-turn&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, I recommend throwing out the RevoShift shifters if they start to cause problems and then replacing them with some other cheap shifters (maybe switch the left on a cheap thumb friction shifter, or a Shimano trigger shifter with the same number of speeds, or a SRAM Attack front shifter if you want to stick with twist). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T12:30:34.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-01T20:28:32.907" Score="3" ViewCount="31897" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm quite new to upgrading parts, and trying to put together a Cyclocross / Touring bike and getting quite confused about compatibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use 10 speed Tiagra Sti shifters with triple Deore 10 speed chainset, 10 speed Deore Xt front mech and 10 speed rear mech? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not what would be the best way to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11127" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-05-02T02:35:41.653" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T03:59:12.797" Title="Shimano Compatibility" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21421" CreationDate="2014-05-01T20:54:53.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano road shifters have to be matched with road front derailleurs, and mountain shifters have to be matched with mountain front derailleurs (technically, you could use a pulley like a JTek Shiftmate, but thats a dumb solution due to price reasons). Theres no compatibility difference in the rear (update: see the comment - the following holds up to 9 speed between mountain and road), except mountain derailleurs are normally long cage and can take bigger cassettes (and thus are favorable in a touring context). Stick with one brand for shifters, front derailleur, rear derailleur (crossing brands is possible, but more complicated as there is no standard for how much cable shifters have to pull, and you may need pulleys to change the cable pull to get things to work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front derailleurs are normally also matched to if they are double and triple and are specified for what range of chainwheels they work most favorably with (you can find this on the data sheet for the front derailleur - this is less important with friction on the front, but brifters can be finicky). In choosing a front derailleur, you also should make sure that the front derailleur can be mounted on your frame and the cable pull is in the right direction for your frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The particular crankset you pick's compatibility will be determined by if you have a bottom bracket that matches it in the bike, along with if its a double/triple (matching the front derailleur) and within the appropriate tooth range and has appropriately sized tooth jumps. To quote Sheldon Brown (article linked later): &quot;Shimano's &quot;10-speed&quot; triple front derailers are optimized for a 13 tooth difference, typically 52-39. Most other Shimano front triple derailers are optimized for a 10 tooth difference between middle and large ring.&quot;. The speeds on the front derailleur are marketing term - you don't really need to stick to them since the speeds are determined by whats in the back(but obviously, Shimano wants you sell you an entire groupset, and 10 speed systems use narrow chains, so you should have a 10 speed FD, 10 speed RD, 10 speed chain (you could use a lower speed FD, but it might not be as crisp) ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article for seeing what goes into selecting a front derailleur and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html#derailers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one as well&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of price, the shifters will be the biggest expense and will determine the FD. Regarding the RD see the comments, so you don't need to worry about it. Once you pick the shifters, you can pick a relevant FD and crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that a 2x10 or 3x10 setup is pricey relative to many 2/3x8 or 2/3x9 systems- the chains don't come with master links by default (and are pricey), and since things are narrower, they can be more annoying. Will the extra 1 in the rear buy you anything? Probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T23:05:54.430" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T23:05:54.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21424" CreationDate="2014-05-01T21:03:12.583" Score="9" ViewCount="2769" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some time ago I got SPD pedals for my MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When going downhill or rather flat these pedals are awesome. However, I have problems using them on sharp uphill with roots/rocks. Because it's steep, I need to use a lot of power but suddenly the bike might just stop in a heartbeat, since the back wheel might slip on a wet stone/root or something. Currently I usually crash at that moment with SPD pedals but with flat pedals it's no problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: How do I practice to get really good at stepping out of the pedals at very steep uphills, without actually trying and crashing (since it hurts alot!)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11128" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T18:10:04.293" Title="How to practice SPD release in very steep uphills?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21423" CreationDate="2014-05-01T23:13:09.117" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practice, practice, practice... You need to move the physical motions of getting out of the pedals from your conscious muscle memory to your unconscious muscle memory. Once it becomes an instinctual unconscious reaction, you'll have far fewer problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A flat grassy space is good for this. Try doing track stands and un-clip to catch your balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can just ride and eventually it will become second nature. The more you practice, the quicker that will happen. I don't ever think about unclipping, it just happens when I want it to. A lot like the actions of driving a car, do it enough and you don't have to think about it. I can't remember how long it took me to get there, but it will happen eventually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one gotcha that still remains is that it can be very difficult to unclip when your weight is still on the pedal. You can get good, but there will still be times&#xA;where clipless pedals aren't as escapable as flat pedals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T23:13:09.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21423" CreationDate="2014-05-02T08:55:26.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using SPDs/clipless pedals on my road bike for a little over a year.  Would I ever consider switching back to platform or toe cages?  Never!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was personally very reluctant to get them after hearing of people not being able to release quickly and falling - still connected to the bike, but I've been one of the lucky ones and never had the misfortune (yet!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question and to echo a comment made by another user - make sure you set the tension to the lowest setting.  If you are struggling to clip out then you've probably set the spring tension too high.  Releasing the tension will help you clip out with ease and you should be able to clip out while you're still pedaling (you shouldn't need to clip out both feet, just your 'main' foot (the one you clip in second and the one you lean on when you think you might lose your balance etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get more accustomed to clipping out you can then begin increasing the tension of the spring in the shoe until you find a sweet spot where you feel like the shoe is firmly secured to the pedal whilst still being able to unclip with little effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a few near misses when my own rear wheel has slipped while going uphill and it's a pretty scary feeling thinking that if you don't unclip you're gonna fall so I can completely sympathize.  If you're still having problems with the clips and especially for higher gradient trails, then maybe think about switching to flats for specific trails?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few extra general pointers I've picked up - if you do ride in traffic and come to traffic lights/junctions - pedal a little harder to give you a little momentum, then unclip a foot prior to reaching the junction.  If there are pedestrian rails near the junction and it's reachable from arm level then don't bother unclipping and just hold yourself and the bike up with one hand on the railing for support (this makes it easier to get going when the lights turn green as you won't need to clip back in).  Just read the road ahead and plan for anything you might need to beforehand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11132" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T00:47:50.197" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T00:47:50.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21293" CreationDate="2014-05-02T09:47:18.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to find that in the UK at least, a quick check if the road has been 'Google StreetViewed' will show if it is tarmac or not. You can quickly check this by dragging the 'pegman' (little orange StreetView icon located above the zoom bar), if the road has been StreetViewed then it will turn blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience over 90% of coloured roads on OS Maps (i.e. not white) are paved, these can be seen on &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.bing.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://maps.bing.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10500" LastEditorUserId="10500" LastEditDate="2014-05-02T11:06:46.367" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T11:06:46.367" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2014-05-02T13:55:12.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a Scott Scale 10 2010, Avid Elixir CR Mag + Avid 160mm rotor rear, Avid XX Elixir Cr/Mag (Awaiting new replacement F Elixir CR Mag) + Shimano 180mm rotor front.&#xA;Brake pads A2Z Superior Sintered Brake Pads High Temp resistant F &amp;amp; R, these babies do not like water but will stop you dead under any condition!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pads &amp;amp; Discs when wet will screech &amp;amp; loudly, add rolling down dusty trails will make it worse.&#xA;The effect of cleaning pads and rotors with alcohol is that alcohol evaporates faster than water but the screeching disappears only after downhill riding and heating up the rotors enough to bed in and dry fully the pads and rotors after cleaning but only until wet and dirty again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noisy is better than poor braking, upside is, your riding buddies will know when you are coming up behind them downhill and make way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roll on the long dry summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11133" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T13:55:12.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21423" CreationDate="2014-05-02T14:35:50.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it helps any, there are also several different styles of pedal - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cycle/mtb/clip-in-pedals/?ea=4294789843&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;literally a few tens by the looks of things&lt;/a&gt; - which can be used with SPD cleats. For example: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IQocx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PD-M540&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBTtV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;M424&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you may find that one style might suit you better than another for the riding you do, and for the level of experience you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'd definitely agree with Fred too, it is a matter of practise. And its with any clipless pedals, not just SPDs - I ride on the road and have used both SPL-SL and Look pedals, but where I ride we have some short, steep (25%) ramps where the only option (at least for a weakling like me) is to get off. And you literally have a few tenths of a second to get your foot out of the clip and safely on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly....we've all been there, good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-05-02T14:46:55.900" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T14:46:55.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17816" CreationDate="2014-05-02T15:29:22.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about stressing master links during removal/application, I really really suggest taking a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.connexchain.com/en/connex-connector-bike-chain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wipperman Connex&lt;/a&gt; master links.&#xA;They have a U-shaped interlocking design that requires no tools and similarly no stressing the links during manipulation.&#xA;In my experience, I've also never had any noticeable issues with these links while shifting (both with and without load).&#xA;They're a bit more expensive than most master links (~$12/pop), but they're also built quite well and I tend to use a single master link for the lifespan of two chains (i.e. I'll go through two, say Dura Ace chains, and just move the Connex link to the new chain when retiring the old chain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11134" LastEditorUserId="5308" LastEditDate="2014-11-21T17:19:18.453" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T17:19:18.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T03:24:40.327" Score="0" ViewCount="2409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new deraluier and it wont shift to the first aka largest aka closest to the wheel / dropouts gear its about two inches too high. So it (the deraulier) knocks into the largest easiest cog. I've fiddled with the B screw already tightening it all the way in. But the deraulier jockey wheel keeps rubbing against the first gear cog on the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smallest aka High Limit screw is already correctly adjusted I believe and I just had the deraliuer and hanger replaced so they are straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the picture below shows (the deraliuer is too high, not enough vertical distance between the hanger/dropouts and deraliuer jockey wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gears are currently on (1/3 in front) and (2/7 in back) the largest cog easiest gear to ride in is 1, which I can't switch to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 7-8 speed SHIMANO ACERA RD-M360-SGS for $30 AUS &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/shimano-acera-rd-m360-7-8-speed-rear-derailleur/RD-M360&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/shimano-acera-rd-m360-7-8-speed-rear-derailleur/RD-M360&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9wTLU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11110" LastEditorUserId="11110" LastEditDate="2014-05-04T02:07:25.077" LastActivityDate="2018-06-16T04:03:01.373" Title="shimano 14-34t megarange casette not shifting to first gear" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T03:28:48.687" Score="0" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm buying my first road bike. I don't plan on racing, but riding long distances, and comfort is one of my top priorities with quality. I tried a 58 Allez in my local shop and it felt like a dream but I only rode for a few minutes. They didn't have a 58 Secteur, so I had to try a 56, and it didn't feel as good because it was too small. They say they can't get the 58 Secteur unless I pay for it. So I don't know what to do ... I don't want to buy the secteur without trying it but I am afraid I might pass on a more comfortable bike. Any tips? Also, would sport (sora) vs. elite (tiagra) make a big difference on these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11140" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T06:45:31.647" Title="Allez vs Secteur" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-05-03T17:37:26.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21432" CreationDate="2014-05-03T04:27:49.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does &quot;two inches too high&quot; mean?&#xA;And by first gear, do you mean the smallest (i.e. hardest) sprocket/cog?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, (actually, even if it's the largest cog), the screw you first want to adjust (before making changes to the B-limit screw) is the high (or low) limit screw.&#xA;These are the screws that define the limits of the derailleur in terms of how far in (towards the wheel) or out (away from the wheel) the derailleur can travel.&#xA;They are usually marked with &quot;L&quot; and &quot;H&quot; symbols on the derailleur, and are likely close to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your L/H limits are fine (which you can test by pushing the derailleur by hand to the limit positions) and you still have a problem dropping into the smallest cog, there are a few possible solutions.&#xA;First is to make sure your main derailleur spring(s) isn't rusty... give it a cleaning and lube, which might help it go into the fully relaxed position (and thus help get that chain down onto the small sprocket).&#xA;Since you say it's a new derailleur though, the spring is probably fine.&#xA;Even with new derailleurs, however, sometimes they just can't get into the relaxed position enough for smooth and consistent shifts into that small cog.&#xA;In these cases, a (very much non-official) solution is to take off the derailleur, find a thin washer that matches the dropout size, and thread the derailleur back onto the hanger with the washer in place (between the derailleur and the hanger).&#xA;This basically moves the derailleur's base position slightly outward (away from the wheel), helping to get the chain onto the small cog.&#xA;You'll have to readjust the L/H limits again when using the washer method.&#xA;Note too, that the washer must be quite thin, as it takes away from the available threading between the derailleur and the hanger.&#xA;This weakens the derailleur's attachment point and can lead to shifting flex or a greater chance of full on derailleur failure if you snag it on branches, debris, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11134" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T04:27:49.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8142" CreationDate="2014-05-03T06:09:43.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem may happen on all TALAS models not specific to the older TALAS. I have a TALAS II and newer which had the same problem (32mm 2007 and 2012). Put a shock pump on the valve and see what happens to the pressure as you compress the fork. If it goes up (as it should under compression) you have another problem. If it stays pretty much the same then the problem is an O-ring which isolates the main air spring from the TALAS part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the top cap assembly which has the schraeder valve and small hollow pipe. Not the part that requires a 26mm socket. Undo the 8mm nut at the bottom of the assembly that the pipe is located in. Inside there is a small spring, ball bearing and an O-ring. Be careful not to loose them and remember the order. Replace the O-ring. Mine was clearly buggered. Resemble and hopefully you are good to go. Unfortunately fox do not show this valve in their drawings so it took me a bit of time to find..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10321" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T06:09:43.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21433" CreationDate="2014-05-03T06:36:21.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some possible do's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep looking until you find a shop that has a Secteur in 58. If you're in the northern hemisphere, remember that this is prime time of year for bike shops. You probably won't find big bargains but you should have a good selection. And 58 isn't extreme at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do some research - are there any bikes that are close enough to a Secteur that they'd do for a test ride? And that its possible to test? Remember you're testing the frame and the fit, so you could probably compromise on the groupset (for a test).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some possible don'ts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't part with your cash up front. Remember you'd be doing so on the offchance that this bike is a good match for you. I can understand why an LBS might say this, but they're being unreasonable if they're seriously wanting to sell bikes. Why should you take the risk? Find a bike shop that's prepared to let you test without obligation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when you do make a decision, try not to break the bank. You say this is your first road bike? Well, one of two things is going to happen. Either you'll decide that cycling isn't for you and the bike will gather dust in the garage (in which case you wasted any money you spent). Or, you'll get so into cycling that after a while you'll decide that the only reason you're not riding faster and longer is because of the limitations of your bike, and you'll start wanting a new one. So my advice is to save your money for the second bike. And for the second bike I guarantee you'll know exactly what bike you want and nothing anyone says on forums such as this will make any difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards which groupset - go for the best one you can afford. The reason for this is that groupsets cost a lot less when they're bought as part of a bike rather than separately. If you get a lesser groupset now, and want to upgrade parts later, it will work out expensive. That's just down to the manufacturers' ability to bulk buy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that while Tiagra is ok it is definitely not &quot;elite&quot;. I have a bike with an old 9sp Tiagra group, which I would say is acceptable, but if you want &quot;elite&quot; you're looking at Dura Ace or Ultegra, which puts you in a different ball park with regard to cost. My only experience of Sora was testing a bike a few years back - the big limitation then was crappy shifters - although I believe the Sora range now has the same style shifters as the higher ranges. I suspect if you tested Tiagra and Sora side-by-side you'd find either to be acceptable but neither would be brilliant. If you can go higher (105 or Ultegra), great, but be wary about choosing anything lower than Sora.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-05-03T06:45:31.647" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T06:45:31.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21440" CreationDate="2014-05-03T16:17:26.783" Score="4" ViewCount="927" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't seem to find software to track maintenance i do / is due on bike(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to enter when i changed the chain/casette on bike A, then track how many km ive gone with it. Distance could be entered manually or pulled from stava or some such site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11141" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T16:32:25.460" Title="maintenance schedule tracking software" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;software&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21437" CreationDate="2014-05-03T16:59:38.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a chain, you typically just take your chain wear tool and see if the chain is sufficiently worn, periodically. Cassettes can be done visually (though cog wear tools like the one which is made by Rohloff) exist. These are usually better served by checking cause they're dependent on riding conditions and product types (e.g. 10 speed chains last less long than 7 speed chains) [ A car analogy would be that most manufacturers are now putting in oil life gauges which tell you when to change your oil, rather than just do it on interval, so you maximize the life of your oil. ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also various questions like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3720/optimal-maintenance-schedule&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, which you could input the checks into google calendar to get reminders. Things I do by mileage rather than by inspecting the bike on a regular schedule are usually things like repacking my hubs (typically at around 6000 miles in my case), which coincides to be around yearly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T17:04:42.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16352" CreationDate="2014-05-03T18:29:34.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting the seat/pedal distance is the first important measure so that your extension is optimal, usually about 30 degrees. With that set, then reach, fore/aft &amp;amp; the other variables can be dealt with &amp;amp; if it doesn't feel comfortable after a couple of 40-50 mile rides, get the proper size. All bikes feel good at first, but the best test is comfort for knees &amp;amp; back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11144" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T18:29:34.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21437" CreationDate="2014-05-03T18:45:58.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention Strava: they do that for you. If you register components and parts of your bike like a chain it will show the mileage from the registering date. It might a bit problematic if you have two sets of wheels (like one for rain and another for sunny days)that you use alternatively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T18:45:58.297" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T20:42:18.967" Score="0" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear hub SRAM T3 cracks when pedaling, but it works, in all three gears.The bike is three years in use.What shoud be done, and how urgent is the problem?&#xA;I think it's something with the rear hub because the cracking sound is slightly different after each shifting of the gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11146" LastEditorUserId="11146" LastEditDate="2014-05-04T19:13:15.183" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T15:37:40.407" Title="Sram T3 cracks when pedaling, but it works, in all three gears.The bike is three years in use" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T21:03:22.390" Score="1" ViewCount="2424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to understand if the problem I've got falls into a common problem for freewheel hubs. After googling and reading, I am still not sure if there is only this factor to what has happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done less than 200km on the &quot;hybrid&quot; bike I've got less than two months ago. I can't say I've abused it. I don't feel like it :) Mostly on asphalt occasionally a unpaved road but nothing dramatic like jumping curbs or riding over tree roots. A few days back we went to have a 30ish km ride and I've started to hear this clicking/clunking noise with vibration and sometimes with that feeling of the rear wheel moving sideways. From the 80-90s, when I was a kid and bikes were built differently, this usually meant you have a mess in the hub's bearings. Rightly so, when I came back home and removed the wheel, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vCUVnxvelo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I've discovered the axle is bent&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/vXrqVIu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is a Shimano MF-TZ21-CP 7 gears set&lt;/a&gt; that appears to be a very cheap one. I wish I knew earlier I have to check this too. I think the hub is equally cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have no idea if this is a &quot;very bent&quot; or &quot;slightly bent&quot; much less I know of what is the cause of what, bent axle munches on bearings or munched bearings bend the axles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reading a lot of people saying the core problem is the &quot;leverage&quot; a freewheel hub creates on the axle and that a heavier weighted rider should expect it to bend or break sooner. I weight 100kgs (220lbs), is it that much for less than 200km &quot;leisure&quot; rides? I mean, am I supposed to buy a box of axle kits to change every 100km?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update after visiting the shop at May 8th:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went to the seller's shop, and left the bike there. As expected, they &quot;didn't have time&quot; to check the damage and quote the work while I was there. Though they told me right away that I &quot;got into a pothole&quot; which I am sure I didn't. At least not a pothole I would consider any danger for any type of bicycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've told them I didn't and left. Next day the shop owner calls me and says to come and pick up the bike. I ask her if and how much I'll have to pay to which she answers &quot;come here, we'll explain&quot;. My favorite. They claim it is impossible to get into a defective axle, and it is impossible it was bent without being &quot;hit&quot;. I keep insisting I've treated it properly and didn't ever jump a curb or got into a pothole. They give up with that look of offended honesty to which I say that I am not going to rob them over it and I am not going broke by paying an hour of work and a 150mm steel rod. She says that she is going to be fine too without me paying. I try to explain that it is not a question of paying, but of the service they offer, and that I need to understand if I have to sell the bike right now to avoid repairing it all the time, or it is just a matter of bad luck.  And she doesn't take it well either, saying that she only sells good bikes and not department store junk and nobody ever came back with this bike and blah. So I take the bike and go home. Seems like going back there with any other problem is not the best option now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt; Got the axle replaced &quot;on warranty&quot; with some good Shimano 9mm (as they said). Seller wasn't happy about it and I am not convinced it is not going to happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10579" LastEditorUserId="10579" LastEditDate="2014-05-22T09:21:48.307" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T09:21:48.307" Title="Bent freewheel axle in less than 200km" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16352" CreationDate="2014-05-03T21:47:04.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @WTHarper and @amcnabb have mentioned, you can't do much if your top tube prevents you from standing with your foot flat. You'd be replacing too much of the bike to lower it (wheels, crank, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are not alone though. I also ride a bike that is slightly too large for me, but closer to .5&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On casual rides, I can overcome this by wearing shoes with a slight heel. If you're a lady, some wedges could easily take care of 3&quot;. Cowboy boots are also a nice option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably can't mount your bike without already knowing this, but it also helps to angle the bike when standing over the frame. There isn't any reason why the bike needs to be perfectly perpendicular to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1490" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T21:47:04.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21444" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T22:52:31.720" Score="0" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;How important is a Heart Rate Monitor when cycling for weight loss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old Everlast HRM watch, but it cannot display the average HR after a workout. I am using RunKeeper to track my rides and I have noticed that it has a field for average HR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11148" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T13:46:39.457" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T15:40:27.180" Title="How important is a heart-rate monitor?" Tags="&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-04T06:16:19.920" Score="3" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interrupter brakes require the brake cable to angle away from the bar to meet the lever at the proper point as shown in the picture below. You can see the handlebar tape doesn't carry on closer to the center because if it did, and was wrapped tight, it would put a harsh bend in the cable. But it seems the right tiny bit of molded plastic to guide the cable off the bar right into the interrupters at the correct angle (shown in red on the left) would allow you to wrap the tape nice and tight right up to where the interrupter levers clamp on the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there such a cable guide wedge thing? If not, has anyone made their own? It would be nice to bring the handlebar tape nicely finished right up against the interrupter clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/TTZ71MK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T18:17:45.663" Title="Interrupter (cross) brake lever cable guide wedges?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;&lt;interrupter-brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21444" CreationDate="2014-05-04T18:13:20.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you at risk of a heart attack? If so it is probably useful. Seriously, I have a (mid-fifties) friend whose doctor advised him that everybody &quot;over a certain age&quot; should wear a HRM when they exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is a regime of training that is heart-rate-based. Clearly if you subscribe to this, then you will need a heart rate monitor to see how you're doing. But there are also regimes which emphasise cadence, or power, or probably other parameters too. So heart rate is not the only metric by which to judge &quot;progress&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since you say you're cycling for weight loss, would it be fair to say that none of these specific metrics interests you (yet)? In which case, I wouldn't get too stressed about not having a HRM. If what you want is weight loss, getting on the bike in the first place will start to achieve that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I would say - and I am someone who started cycling to achieve weight loss, and who has worn a HRM since the start - is that by measuring things like heart rate data over time, you get to know how your body is working, what its limitations are, how your fitness is improving etc., which can be useful. But is it useful enough to go buy an HRM? Well, that's really your call. (After all, if &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; you're interested in is weight loss, then a set of scales will suffice!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly I'd echo what @Batman says - if you think there's any cardio risk with you jumping on a bike in the first place, you should really consult your doctor before doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T11:19:57.780" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T11:19:57.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21256" CreationDate="2014-05-04T18:21:42.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The roading network in the UK is well categorised so understanding what the different categories of roads are will assist you in planning a route:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;M Roads&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; motorways bicycles are banned from using these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A Roads&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; major roads intended to provide large-scale transport links &#xA;within or between areas. These are generally dual carriageways and will have consistent haevay traffic especially in peak travel times which may lead to congestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;B Roads&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; roads intended to connect different areas, and to feed &#xA;traffic between A roads and smaller roads on the network. These will be well maintained roads with lighter traffic between peaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Classified unnumbered&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; smaller roads intended to connect &#xA;together unclassified roads with A and B roads, and often linking a &#xA;housing estate or a village to the rest of the network. These will have some traffic at the peak but generally quiet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Unclassified&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; local roads intended for local traffic. Generally always quiet unless there are road works or a detour in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These road types should be identifiable on any map. Generally speaking if you planned a cycle tour that avoided A roads you should have a reasonably quiet run for most of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T18:21:42.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21444" CreationDate="2014-05-04T21:45:39.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short annswer is not at all important. &#xA;People trained and got fit for decades without heart rate monitors. Current thoughs in some camps is to dump heart rate altogether. For someone just wanting to get fit and loose some weight, heartrate monitoring is usually an interesting distraction. The drive for it comes down from pro level sports to trainers and manufacturers selling 'extras'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you know you maximum heart rate (The 220-age formula is wrong as often as its right - do not use it), a monitor gives little useful information, and is more likely to put you wrong. You also need your aerobic threshold for it to anything more than marginally useful. Its very hard to establish aerobic threshold without knowing average heart rate, but you also need to know a lot more than just average.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should use the watch during training to ensure you are in your target bands- just look at the watch occationally. The proviso is  that you can accurately establish the correct heart rate bands. If you have a trainier, averages, time in band etc might help them tune your training program, but if you had a trainer, they would tell you if this is needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T21:45:39.260" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-05T00:22:04.573" Score="10" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the city I live in, there's a lot of two lane roads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel much more comfortable taking the lane, as to not have a car come up from behind and clip me while overtaking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I encounter congestion ahead, I can safely ride between cars, (because &lt;em&gt;I'm&lt;/em&gt; the one judging the spacing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems rude to be riding in a way that I'm not allowing people to overtake me (unless using a different lane to), but then allowing myself to overtake others. Are there any etiquette guidelines concerning this technique?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10869" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T13:42:59.303" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T00:06:34.620" Title="Is it rude to take the lane, then filter when encountering congestion?" Tags="&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;city&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21450" CreationDate="2014-05-05T01:09:51.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;I can safely ride between cars....&quot;, You an judge spacing &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;a car come up from behind and clip me while overtaking.&quot; Car drivers cannot judge spacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this dichotomy the root of the issue? Your (mine as well) perception is that because you are in control, you are safer than when not in control. Turn this around, and the car driver feels lane splitting is less safe than him passing you. Hence apparent rudeness on your part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I invite you to explore this as it is the most likley reason you feel its rude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to answer the question, it is rude to purposely slow someones progress then pass them, especially if you pass them illegally (Which lane splitting is in many duristrictions), regardless of if its a car, another bike or a runner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T01:09:51.903" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21441" CreationDate="2014-05-05T15:37:40.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A crackling sound could be a bad bearing in the hub. Does it also feel gravelly (as if you have dirt in the hub) or do you hear a grinding sound as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a single crack when changing gears is relatively normal. If all fails, go to your local bike shop to get a real opinion (internet opinions don't count).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T15:37:40.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21444" CreationDate="2014-05-05T15:40:27.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use a bluetooth or ANT+ heartrate monitor, you can plug that data right into your app. You'll have to explore their website to figure out which one is compatible with your cellphone and app version. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Abvio's Cyclemeter along with a Polaris bluetooth HRM and Wahoo cadence+speed sensor. I find that it's usually a big pain to use the HRM and just go with the cadence + speed, which is more important for me. Part of what you want to do is to increase your distance and effort over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also look into power meters that hook into your rear hub but they are considerably more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T15:40:27.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-05T18:45:23.880" Score="0" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle keeps 'skipping a beat', especially when I exert more force, or go uphill. I don't know what you call this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the problem and how can I resolve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lubricating it helps get rid of the problem for a bit but soon it resurfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11164" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T17:07:52.883" Title="Bicycle keeps 'skipping a beat'" Tags="&lt;skipping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16352" CreationDate="2014-05-05T21:32:15.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best option is to sell your bike and buy another better-fitting used model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that isn't possible, know that bike fitting is as much by convention as by natural law, and that many early safety bicycles had what we now consider very large frames for the rider:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a1/Columbia_Model_40_Mens_Safety_Bicycle%2C_1895.JPG/1024px-Columbia_Model_40_Mens_Safety_Bicycle%2C_1895.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a1/Columbia_Model_40_Mens_Safety_Bicycle%2C_1895.JPG/1024px-Columbia_Model_40_Mens_Safety_Bicycle%2C_1895.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;To compensate, bicycles of that era used rear-facing handlebars, which significantly shortened their reach. Velo Orange makes similar handlebars today, and you could potentially refit your bike to fit you by purchasing a pair. Be aware that the handlebar diameter may differ, and you should learn and research what that means for your stem/brake levers/shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to add a top-tube pad to protect your crotch in the case of rapid dismount, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T21:32:15.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21458" CreationDate="2014-05-06T04:58:52.647" Score="3" ViewCount="895" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right, I guess inserting where they're made in the title would be a little politically incorrect but essentially the link below would give you the exact product that inspired the question :-&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/29ER-MTB-Clincher-full-carbon-wheels-disc-brake-27mm-wide-30mm-deep-/151289732726?pt=US_Wheels_Wheelsets&amp;amp;hash=item2339921e76&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cheap Carbon Rims&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The target is to use those for a cyclocross-commuter steel bike that I am building. The typical use of such a rig would be for home-work-home commute on cycle tracks with a muddy stretch of offroad along the way (short cut &lt;em&gt;smirk&lt;/em&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am about 180 pounds (give or take) and have had history of taco-ing alloy rims before (MTB) - so the question would be : would you trust such a product for the above use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastActivityDate="2019-11-26T07:19:51.127" Title="Cheap Carbon Fiber Wheels" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21172" CreationDate="2014-05-06T05:55:34.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same thing while riding off road over the past weekend with some overzealous braking - just happened at the trails, were working well on the way in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fixed them with what you did - slacken, mash down hard and re-tighten the bolts. did the same for the front discs too but that needed a couple of taps to center it proper. the rotor rubs with the slack-retighten step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned that you did that and it's still there, perhaps it might help to pull the pads out and inspect them. Might be worn (though I would think that is would be only a remote chance with only 200miles done), might have dings on the pads themselves or the pads weren't clicked in proper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the free stuff is done and the problems still there, I guess throwing some cash down for a pair of pads and a quiet braking experience would wipe that curious/angry look you see in the mirror :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add: sorry just remembered - do check the rotors too for anything wrong with it - burrs at the vents or not smooth spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastEditorUserId="963" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T09:42:06.300" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T09:42:06.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21456" CreationDate="2014-05-06T06:01:26.543" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long Answer: I would not use carbon rims for commuting for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They make the bike look more shiny than you want, attracting all kinds of unwanted attention.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I ride my commuter bike in any weather without too much maintenance. Should the carbon rim fail at some point, I at least won't notice a hairline crack until the wheel breaks. Carbon wheels will mostly break catastrophically, and that's not what I'd want while wedged between an SUV and a 40-ton lorry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're using rim brakes (which the OP doesn't), pure carbon rims do not have the same braking performance as alloy ones, especially when wet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a seller on eBay, you probably don't have anyone to go to if the wheel is faulty from the start, e.g. arrives broken/bent or some such. Basically, you don't get any warranty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd rather spend a more for custom-built wheels with alloy rims if you want maximum stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastEditorUserId="3186" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T14:59:07.880" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T14:59:07.880" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21454" CreationDate="2014-05-06T16:16:18.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to tell, but it is most likely one of these (assuming you have a cassette and free hub system):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cassette and chain needs to be replaced.  This can happen when either a tooth is bent on the cassette or the chain and cassette teeth are not lined up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The free hub body needs to be serviced or even replaced.  This can happen when the springs in the ratching mechanism are not pushing down into the teeth that gives you the bite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For both of these, you would require special tools to remove the cassette and possibly the free hub body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastEditorUserId="3380" LastEditDate="2014-05-07T17:07:52.883" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T17:07:52.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21454" CreationDate="2014-05-06T16:48:42.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to Carson's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you experience this &quot;skipping a beat&quot; in every combination of front and rear gears, it is most likely a chain issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had that before and I found out that I had a small deformation on one of the links that was preventing it to roll in relation to the other link. It was probably caused in a harder than usual gear change by one of the teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for dents on the links and check if all of them rotate without resistence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one of them does not, every time or at least a significative number of times, you will feel this &quot;skip a beat&quot; sensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11106" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T16:48:42.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21450" CreationDate="2014-05-06T18:33:22.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @mattnz mentions, it is most likely illegal to split the lane in the manner you describe. While traffic laws differ from place to place, almost any locale with defined lanes will have a law saying that riding/driving between lanes (for longer than it takes to change lanes) is illegal. I strongly advise you to check and follow your local laws. Almost any violation of traffic laws is going to be considered rude. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it often &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; legal to pass on the non-traffic side of the road. That is, pass on the right where people drive on the right and pass on the left where people drive on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When legal, whether or not it is rude depends largely on what happens after you have passed all of these cars. If you're only passing all of this congestion to turn onto a side road and get out of their way, it's probably not a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pass all the congestion and take the lane again (such as you might be able to do at a traffic light or stop sign), then you just passed all of these cars only to slow their progress and force them to pass you again (which creates more congestion) and is certainly rude. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T18:33:22.777" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21172" CreationDate="2014-05-06T19:29:32.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any loss of braking power associated with the noise? Does it feel that the brakes aren't working fast enough? Brakes do make a similar sound when water gets on the rotor for no loss of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you are describing and because you have realigned the caliper I would suggest your pads may have become contaminated or glazed and therefore not engaging properly. Check the pads for chips, hard spots or a glassy appearance (there may be a toe formed at the leading edge of the brake which is ok). Sand the top layer of the brake pad off until it is rough and dull again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the rotor for any greasiness (make sure your hands are clean and dry). Wipe the rotor with isopropyl alcohol or other non-residue type solvent to remove any decontamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this will remove any scraping sound and take you back to the turkey gobble and squealing normally associated with Avid Elixirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-05-07T08:01:18.530" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T08:01:18.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21450" CreationDate="2014-05-07T08:09:50.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, &lt;strong&gt;yes it is rude&lt;/strong&gt;. But there can be times when it's acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure we all understand that you are trying to maximize your own safety. It is a tricky balance to achieve. &lt;em&gt;Especially since how you ride depends on the local driver and cyclist cultures, and local laws.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many places we cyclists struggle for respect and acceptance by the motoring majority. There are multiple overlapping factors / factions involved:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;might is right&lt;/strong&gt; faction. For whatever reason: permanent inferiority complex, transient anger, whatever. Logic will never prevail here, but &lt;strong&gt;don't give them a reason to target you&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;cyclists don't obey the rules&lt;/strong&gt; faction. Reinforced every time a driver sees a cyclist run a red light, ride on the footpath, or in many cases / places - split lanes, take up a whole lane, ride without a helmet, ride with no hands (on the handlebars), pop a mono, have fun, you name it. To them, if a cyclist does anything they as a driver can't do then it should be banned: the rules are &lt;strong&gt;written and unwritten&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;cyclists are unpredictable&lt;/strong&gt; faction. These people may appreciate that every cyclist is freeing up road space, but cyclists vary in experience and predictability. And in peak inner-city traffic it can be hard to know where we are: &quot;Did I pass him yet? I can't see him; did he turn off? I don't want to hit him ...&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary: &lt;strong&gt;obey the local rules&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I ride in 4 different conditions, when I'm &lt;strong&gt;not in a bike lane or on a bike path:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inner city, generally with heavy and congested (0-40kph) traffic. The drivers generally see lots of bikes, and have learned to accommodate. Because their max speed and mine match, I take a full lane when it's available. At lights, there are &quot;bike boxes&quot; painted on the road in front of the stopped traffic. Bikes are expected to start from there, so that they are visible to the traffic behind. So bikes often filter through the lanes when the traffic is stopped. This example &lt;strong&gt;supports taking a lane&lt;/strong&gt;, but it is a limited case.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inner city, traffic dominated by recreational and fitness cyclists (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/maps/@-37.795034,145.018429,3a,75y,121.62h,75.91t/data=!3m4!1e1!3m2!1sj5jgpOhlWAa6aorjx3DwOw!2e0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kew Boulevard&lt;/a&gt;, for those who know it). The speed limit is 50kph, so on the downhills we usually take the whole lane. Elsewhere, we mostly use the bike lane, unless there is too much bike traffic to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Outer city (the 'burbs). While the traffic here has greatly improved in the last decade, taking a lane is putting your life in their hands. Some drivers are very bike aware, completely changing lanes to overtake. When other drivers see that behavior, they often copy it. But some drivers can look you in the eye and &lt;strong&gt;just not see you&lt;/strong&gt;. Taking a lane is dangerous because to these drivers you simply don't exist. &lt;em&gt;It only takes one to take you out.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Outer city on regular cycling routes, with no bike lanes. If alone, I ride about a meter out from the curb, to avoid all the broken pavement and any rubbish. The local law says vehicles must drive &quot;as near as practicable&quot; to the side of the road. I only take a lane when it would only be for a short distance, and the motorists are aware of me, and &lt;strong&gt;safety depends on it&lt;/strong&gt;. If in a bunch, we would take a whole lane &lt;em&gt;unless it was unsafe&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third example sounds more like your case. The other examples show how the local conditions and expectations can change things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-05-07T11:39:30.317" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T11:39:30.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1552" CreationDate="2014-05-07T12:24:06.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I painted my mudguards bright red to aid visibility, but it doesn't actually help that much. The thing that worked best for me was attaching a small pink teddy to the back of the pannier rack (like truckers do to their radiators). It's eye-catching even in a crowd. It's less good at Cambridge station, which is an extreme case, but works well in a long row of racks because it sticks out the back where it's visible as you approach the row. I only don't do that any more because I bought a rear light that mounts there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're coming back to your bike after dark, you're better off with unusually placed retroreflectives. Most car accessory shops sell rolls of retro-reflective tape in various colours, and you can get sheets of stickers which you can cut to shape. I always put a white triangle on my steerer tube where it's visible from the front, and a red stripe down my rear mudguard. Since you're probably carrying your bike lights anyway, just turn on the front one and play the beam along the row. Your own bike will wink back at you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T12:24:06.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21470" CreationDate="2014-05-07T12:49:18.527" Score="4" ViewCount="1680" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every year I marshal a family ride organized by my local cycling campaign. As it's targeted at people who don't cycle long distances, the main job of the marshals is to offer help to people with mechanical problems, as well as to give them confidence they're following the right route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make us more visible among the huge crowd of bikes, we carry flags, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/p180x540/10269367_10152835340453572_8460915589364836947_n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rider with flag&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/mrc7cam/media_set?set=a.10152835295663572.1073741971.646238571&amp;amp;type=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Picture courtesy of Mike Clark&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These flags are very effective and visible, but have some problems:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They tend to fwap people in the face. Most of the ride is on cycle tracks, and if a wind blows from your left, the flag flaps out to the right, taking the whole width of the track and inconveniencing oncoming riders or pedestrians.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bamboo canes sometimes snap if we go under low signs or tree branches too fast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Part of the route is lined with high brambles. If the flag rubs against the brambles, they tug at it, pulling the bike off-balance (and this can snap the cane too).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you stop riding in a tail wind, the flag envelops you and you can't see anything until you start moving again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also help a little with publicity, as passers-by always stop and ask us what the flag is for and where we're all going. (The design of the flag itself is irrelevant: the one pictured here happens to be the county flag of Northumbria, but all the marshals have random flags.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to improve on this design, removing one or more of these problems without making the marshals less visible? HV jackets just won't cut it: you can't see one HV jacket in a dense crowd from more than about 20 m away. Besides, some normal cyclists wear them, which could cause confusion. Rigid flags won't work either, even if they're shorter: there are parts of the route where even the riders have to duck under low branches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3512" LastEditorUserId="3512" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T13:39:20.360" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T13:39:20.360" Title="What's a safer alternative to a flag for marking special bikes?" Tags="&lt;visibility&gt;&lt;organized-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21469" CreationDate="2014-05-07T13:07:13.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite editing this down I could make it into a comment (plus:pictures), so here are some ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least 1 or more streamer (like wide ribbons) would be less likely to snag than a large flag, as well as being less of a shock if it gets someone in the face.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9P0Lp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Streamer flags&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need height for visibility as you implied - maybe a bamboo cane to a bit over head height then something more flexible (springy wire, I can't quite think of what but I know I've seen something recently).  You could bend this to give you some stiffening pointing backwards making it less likely to blow in your face. I guess a neat spring mounting to allow the flag to be pulled down and back under a branch would be too risky for a close follower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively: helmet plumes:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lH4vv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cavalry helmet plumes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You duck your head anyway if the branch or whatever is that low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note though, I'm used to (non-cycling) events where the organisers are in fancy dress or at least distinctive hats)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Images from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://images.cdn.fotopedia.com/flickr-4629855353-hd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://images.cdn.fotopedia.com/flickr-4629855353-hd.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d2/Cavalry_Trooping_the_Colour,_16th_June_2007.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d2/Cavalry_Trooping_the_Colour,_16th_June_2007.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T13:07:13.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21469" CreationDate="2014-05-07T14:32:16.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some local recumbent users have a different style flag on their bikes rather than the rectangle or the pennant.  I couldn't find a photo online, but the flag is about a 1~1.5 meters tall, and the poll runs up the whole length of it.  It is then about a half meter wide.  There is very little flapping around and nothing loose to blow in faces and get tangled up.  I came across them driving so I can say they make you visible.  I have seen businesses use them before for advertising signs in windy locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a image from Wikipedia.  It is called a vertical flag on it, the type I'm describing is 3.  (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Flag_Types.svg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;image credit&quot;&gt;image credit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gUBg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2014-05-07T16:44:14.310" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T16:44:14.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21469" CreationDate="2014-05-07T15:54:30.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest simply installing a couple of rear bike lights (the red flashing type) on top of a moderate length of PVC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being small and lightweight it will practically eliminate the problem with side winds, a bike light is usually designed to be mounted on a seat tube, so you don't have to do any bizarre engineering there. Also you can use them for the regular purpose when not marshaling, thus cutting expenses. (Seeing it the other way, you can just borrow lights from people not riding that day)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend using &quot;fresh&quot; PVC in of 1/2 inch nominal size, since it is very flexible. I Insist that the PVC has to be fresh, I mean newly fabricated, because this material tends to loose flexibility over time. If you decide to use it, just test it before installing in the bike bi trying to bend it by hand. You should be able to bend it enough to make a semi circle with a length of 2 meters. If it's not possible, better not use it (it may be old and brittle). When not in use store it in a cold place where it's not hit by sunlight nor sun/heat radiation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the funny side, the bike will look like a police patrol motorcycle, childish but awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T15:54:30.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21479" CreationDate="2014-05-07T17:25:19.457" Score="1" ViewCount="2694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a single speed rider and I'd like to buy an MTB.&#xA;My main purpose for MTB is hardcore forest riding(rocks and little downhills).&#xA;I thought of buying an used one and I saw today &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebikelist.co.uk/marin/rock-springs-2007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marin Rock Springs 2007&lt;/a&gt; at a local shop.&#xA;The original price is about 1650 euros($2300) and their call is 500 euros($700)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop has pretty good reputation and the bike seems to be in good condition.&#xA;Fortunately there is a tiny &quot;mountain&quot; behind the shop so I could testride it and the feeling and the fit were just great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a good idea to purchase a 7-year-old full suspension MTB?&#xA;Will I struggle with constant repair of breaking components?&#xA;Thanks a lot in advance :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11184" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T21:40:30.177" Title="Is it a good idea to buy a 7-year-old MTB?" Tags="&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21473" CreationDate="2014-05-07T18:14:28.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being the owner of a 2004 dirt jumper, and a 2007 full-suspension, I can say it's just fine. However, be prepared to solve problems...creatively. Certain things that are specific to the bike may not be available anymore, but there's usually an after-market part to fill the gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason not to buy an older mountain bike is the difference in how it's made, what it's made of, and what it can ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How it's made:&lt;/em&gt; Newer carbon, and even alumninum, is much stronger and prepared in different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What it's made of:&lt;/em&gt; New steel is generally lighter than old steel frames, this reflects both material and manufacturing changes. Some things like carbon and titanium have come down in price, but are still worth more even on older bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What it can ride:&lt;/em&gt; The downhill of yesteryear isn't what it is today. 3&quot; of travel back then was more than enough for some serious trail riding, but now that same style of riding might require 4&quot;, 5&quot;, or 6&quot; of travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, these are just general problems that &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; arise or should be taken into consideration. I've had zero trouble with my older bikes (although the full susser is pretty heavy and not the greatest to pedal!). So, I would recommend that test ride and then compare to what a new model would cost and make a decision. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T18:14:28.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21423" CreationDate="2014-05-07T18:34:25.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first this questions tends to get the obvious answer: practice! That is, repeatedly engage and disengage your feet from the pedals. Don't go for a normal ride, ride a few meters and stop, then start again. repeat over and over until you brain forgets about it because you have built muscular memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another exercise might be this: At home, get yourself on the bike inside a door frame. Now, while pressing the brakes and with one foot already engaged, hold your balance and quickly lift your other foot from the ground, clip, unclip and return it to the floor. If you fail, just grab the door frame before hitting the  ground. Repeat over and over, and then do the same with the other foot. This will help build muscular memory as well  as force you to do it quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another exercise is, an empty parking lot, or an ample flat terrain, try to make balance while riding as slowly as possible without removing any foot from your pedals. You can even get to a complete stop and remain clipped. This stunt is known as a trackstand. This will improve balance and teach your brain to stay on the bike, instead of thinking about putting a foot on the ground as a first resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are practices, but when you actually have to stop and unclip, critical fractions of a second prevent you from doing it on time and you crash. When you traverse a technical section, take a previous decision on what foot to put down, that way your brain will have one less task to do in those critical seconds, freeing it to drive that foot effectively when needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the answer for the person that just bought and (got) installed clipless pedals for the first time. But I'm pretty sure any rider would feel better by actually conquering those sections without putting any foot down (regardless of pedal type). Effectively improving your climbing techniques will minimize your need to repeatedly put a foot down, and will minimize the chances of a fall because of that reason. Rather than fearing a fall, focus on techniques to overcome the obstacles you are facing, concentrate on pedaling and steering, be as conscious as possible when selecting the line you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question specifically expresses concern for rear wheel slippage. There is a couple of things that can be done to minimize that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn to control where your rear wheel goes. Remember that except when going straight, the rear wheel follows a different line than the front, but at an almost fixed distance, so through exercise you can get to the point where you always know exactly where it touches the ground. I recommend practicing on a flat ground, like an empty parking lot or playground. Dispose makeshift &quot;transit cones&quot; in line, separated a regular distance (about the axle to axle distance of your bike) and practice zigzagging the rear wheel without touching the cones. Then vary the distance between cones and make different lines. Once you gain control on where the rear wheel goes, you'll be able to pick better lines in your technical climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Choose a gear that allows you to remain seated. This puts more weight on the rear wheel and gives more traction. It also demands less power from you, you will be less tense and since you'll be a little slower, leave you a little more time to select the line&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If possible, use a little lower air pressure on the rear tire, as it increases traction too. However, don't lower it too much because it also increases rolling resistance and increase the possibility of getting pinch flats.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A correct posture will also help a lot. While seated slide a little towards the front, lean your torso towards the handlebar, firmly grasp the handlebar with your forearms parallel to each other and to the ground. This position gives a more solid weight distribution which gives better traction, allow for more precise line selection an better power transfer, but it also gives a better chance to recover from a slippage without putting any foot down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Distribute your power. Sometimes a climb has short sections that are steeper, but the general gradient is more tolerable. If not steeper, there are short sections with more difficult terrain, while the rest is smoother. On the smoother or less step sections pedal a little below your full potential (think of it like &quot;pedaling at 70%&quot;). Accelerate to full power two or three pedal strokes before the steeper or difficult section, but don't &quot;explode&quot; into full, instead smoothly and gradually accelerate during those few strokes. Once you reach the section at full power, concentrate on pedaling, keep the rhythm (cadence) as constant as possible throughout the section, and resume 70% percent when you get o a smooth or less inclined part. During that short burst try to follow the line you must have selected before entering the section. This &quot;70%&quot; thing lets you save energy for the rough parts of the trail, and let you recuperate your breath after them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not shift gear while in the roughest parts of the climb. A badly executed gear shift is as bad as rear wheel slippage, but it may compromise the transmission. Also, as a general rule, shifts should be avoided when pedaling at full power. I recommend doing the opposite, &quot;soft pedaling&quot; while the shift occurs, this can't be done in the roughest sections.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also recommend reading these answers: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5825/bailing-out-with-spd-pedals-on-a-mountain-bike/5833#5833&quot;&gt;Bailing out with SPD pedals on a mountain bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides that: Patience, persistence, perseverance and progressiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T18:34:25.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4164" CreationDate="2014-05-07T19:57:34.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was in college I had three housemates in a 2-bedroom apartment. I was the only one who biked. I stored my bike in my bedroom on a &quot;bike pole,&quot; elevated about my dresser. It was a huge conversation piece. My roommate saw me lift my bike onto the bike pole multiple times per week, and guests were always intrigued with my storage solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A year after I graduated, one of my roommates learned to ride for the first time. One other started biking to work, and another bought a bike. They all said that I was one reason they were drawn to biking. Had I stored my bike outside or in a hidden storage area it is less likely they would have thought to bike more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11186" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T19:57:34.043" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-05-07T19:57:34.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6934" CreationDate="2014-05-07T20:18:04.370" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep to the left, as do the majority of other cyclists that I come across on cycle paths, with no problem.  However, I have also come across a few &quot;frosty&quot; pedestrians using the paths, coming at me from the opposite direction, sticking to their right, grumbling that I should be cycling on the right.  Can't win!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11187" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T20:18:04.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-07T20:22:05.167" Score="2" ViewCount="6011" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear axle broke so I took my bike into a shop to see what they suggested. I had read a few posts that had said it should be fairly easy to replace the axle. The guys in the shop said that because my frame is fairly old (1980s) it would be hard to find one that was the right length and connected in the right way (apparently there are 4 different types?). I think they might have said that because the current wheel doesn't have a free hub it means you need a longer axle to fit over the cassette, which might also make things harder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They said the easiest thing to do would be to buy a new wheel and suggested the Halo Retro (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halowheels.com/products/part/RMHAR76S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.halowheels.com/products/part/RMHAR76S&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My two questions really are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it really be so hard to find the right axle if I know what the length of the old one is?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I should get a new wheel is the Halo Retro a good choice? A few reviews I've seen say it's pretty good and it sounds like it would suit the bike but I was just wondering if there were any cheaper options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11188" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T14:25:19.237" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T14:25:19.237" Title="I broke my rear axle, apparently it's an old style. Is it easily replaceable?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;axle&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21473" CreationDate="2014-05-07T21:40:30.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Worries about breakdowns and maintaiance - buy it for 500, if it breaks down, buy another one  for 500, if that breaks down, buy another one - and you have spend the same as a new bike, and have lots of spares.  Don't spend all your money on the bike (but that applies to a new bike as well), allow some for maintance costs, maybe a bit more, but not much more, for second hand over a new bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the bike is coming from a reputable shop, and you say its in good condition, I would expect it to be as reliable as a new bike. Many bikes get bought and never ridden hard, if at all, so they are hardly used after 7 years. The shop would not stock a worn out bike, and will have serviced it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as ride goes, bikes have changed over the last 25 years since the first full sus became popular, but that change has slowed down significantly. Current models (with same travel suspesion), while better than a 7yo bike, are bit lighter and a bit smoother, but significantly the same.  The big difference is suspesion travel has increased as they can make longer travel while maintaining stiffness and reliability with better design and lighter materials. Question is - do you really need 500mm of travel? Can you afford the luxury of a newer, better bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read back at many of my previous answers - I always recommend a second hand bike, if possible from an LBS, for people on a budget and new to riding. The bike described sounds ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T21:40:30.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21497" CreationDate="2014-05-07T22:24:56.207" Score="4" ViewCount="4764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the black mounted lock you see below, and would like to buy a U/D lock or folding lock, so the bike can't be moved. I would prefer a 12mm wire where one end goes into the mounted lock, but many videos suggest that they can be cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of videos on YouTube, where they use a grinder to saw over the locks, but I am not so concerned about these types of attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below have I found an U/D lock, which I have no idea if this particular model is good compared to an Abus or Kryptonite of similar weight, but I like that it also functions as a luggage carrier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How concerned should I be about the leverage attacks, as this U/D lock is fairly long?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which strengths and weaknesses does U/D and folding locks have compared to each other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IGBN6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2gWb0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rvZI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11189" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T06:13:23.083" Title="U/D lock or folding lock?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21480" CreationDate="2014-05-08T01:18:58.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Haven't checked out the folding variety of locks but am currently using a U lock. Personally, a U lock gives me that assured feel that it'll not take a perp just a couple of seconds to pinch my pride, joy and daily escape from packed trains. My bike is parked at a moderately busy place so it'll not be easy to wrench it on the sly. The lock is a little heavy but I'll take that trade off with huge dollop of positive for whats it keeping safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T01:18:58.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21469" CreationDate="2014-05-08T01:46:24.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print t shirts. It's what festivals and bands do, and it's cheap. If you want them to stand out pick an unusual colour, but regardless, print something big on the back and front. If you're already selling ride t shirts, use those but make the helper ones stand out with coloured sleeves, long sleeves, or a different colour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use lights. Buy a bunch of cheap yellow or orange LED blinkies and put a couple on each helper bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use better flags. Flags don't have to be flexible - Bob Stuart in the US uses a rigid tailfin with a vertical pivot to good effect, and you could get the same effect using a flagpole and a strip of (semi)rigid plastic sheet. Coreflute (corrugated cardboard made of plastic) is common in advertising signs and most commercial printers can easily deal with it. Or you can paint it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use smaller, vertical flags. Like BPugh says, vertical flags will probably work better. Flags also don't have to be quite that big, you'll probably find that head height and 20cm deep works just as well. Maybe a taller flag on the ride leader so they can be easily identified in a crowd.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use sound. Buy some cheap piezo beepers and give all the helpers one. They don't have to run continuously, and if you pick one of the silly &quot;kid's bike horn&quot; ones you'll have a variety of tunes to choose from. Or mount a proper sound system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use distinctive bikes. Tall bikes will obviously stand out hugely, but even fat tyre cruisers are pretty noticeable. Or use load bikes, so that the fitter regular cyclists have a handicap to help them ride slowly. And recumbents, especially velomobiles, stand out a lot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T01:46:24.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-08T02:08:55.467" Score="2" ViewCount="3359" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crashed. &#xA;I thought I escaped unscathed but turns out I broke the plastic lid and from a vintage bike there's no one selling the entire combi levers or just the lid itself. (in shops locally, I saw on ebay but with shipping, it aint worth the cost)&#xA;It's on a 3x9 speed XC bike with XT parts .. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;friends are egging me on for a 10 spd upgrade but I am not ready to shell out more cash on a 2 week old (2nd hand bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what do you guys think I should do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fyi my combi levers look like this &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SHIMANO-DEORE-XT-9x3-BICYCLE-SHIFTERS-HYDRAULIC-BRAKE-LEVERS-M765-/151247697679&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SHIMANO-DEORE-XT-9x3-BICYCLE-SHIFTERS-HYDRAULIC-BRAKE-LEVERS-M765-/151247697679&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJ95L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JJ95L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6325" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2019-12-16T22:08:03.537" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T22:08:03.537" Title="Broke the lid cover of my Shimano Deore combi hydraulic brake reservoir. Repair options?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21437" CreationDate="2014-05-08T02:40:48.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dahl-stamnes.net/dahls/Velo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velocipede&lt;/a&gt; is a stand-alone program that does this. Features include &lt;code&gt;A maintenance scheduling feature will tell you when you need to maintain you bikes based on usage time, distance or at defined dates.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3641" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T02:40:48.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21450" CreationDate="2014-05-08T10:08:26.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on local circumstances. Often, it's the only sane rational way for cyclists to behave. In other places, it's rude because you didn't really need to take the lane for safety. In still other places, it's the rational safe way for a cyclist to behave but will be seen as rude anyway because it violates local expectations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some drivers will see it as rude anyway everywhere, because some drivers see the very existence of cyclists on the road as offensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T10:08:26.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21478" CreationDate="2014-05-08T13:03:32.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced probably three or four axles like yours in the last few months. It is fairly easy; the only special tools that you need are usually cone wrenches (very skinny wrenches to hold the cone-nuts in your hub). The axles are cheap (maybe 10 bucks or so online). You will also need a regular 17 or 16mm box wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your axle a quick release (it is hollow inside) or solid? If it is solid, the length does not matter really, as long as it is longer than your old one. If it is quick release, then you have to get it within one mm or so so that the quick release skewer still holds properly. The thread pitch also matters, and is somewhat harder to determine on your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think that any decent bike shop would be able to tell you exactly what you need. You can order a cone wrench and new axle for probably ~$15 online and do the repairs yourself, and have the original wheel still on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll look around for instructions on how to change out an axle. BTW, this is pretty common for hubs that take freewheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T13:03:32.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21330" CreationDate="2014-05-08T17:26:13.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes in some sense.&#xA;It's like some skiers try to get more weight in order to get extra velocity.&#xA;But it would hard to have a good control compare to when you were lighter before :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11184" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T17:26:13.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-08T18:11:03.490" Score="1" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old wheelset with a 16T cog. It's currently a 120mm flipflop hub, and I'm going to be replacing it with a 120mm coaster. The coaster hub that I want doesn't come with a 16T cog (only 14, 15 and 17 for some reason). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than mess around with chain tension, etc, I was wondering if I could just use the cog from the old wheelset on the new hub, or if it's more complicated than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info: old hub is a 32H, 14G, 16T cog. New hub is a velosteel 32H &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elegantwheels.net/STORE.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.elegantwheels.net/STORE.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11192" LastEditorUserId="11192" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T19:11:42.737" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T21:38:19.530" Title="Can I use an old cog for my new hub?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;&lt;flip-flop-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2014-05-08T20:44:08.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These guys too. I have not tried them but they look cool.&#xA;www.bikedabs.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pzqAJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11194" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T14:33:48.790" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T14:33:48.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17827" CreationDate="2014-05-09T02:35:33.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had exactly the same problem  in a 700 x 350 Duro tyre after repairing a puncture and could not  understand why the back wheel wobbled so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusted the spokes for centering the wheel, checked that there was no tube twist, all to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was however on close inspection about a ten inch point where the Tyre looked as though it was &quot;blown&quot; out just a little and I though that maybe over inflation could have been the cause but I never exceeded 60 lbs so I concluded  that wasn't the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer was that the tyre as explained above had not seated properly and so I deflated the tyre again, checked for twisted tube but this time on assembling the wheel doused the tyre beads with plenty of soapy liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I pinched the tyre all of the way round and made sure that all was correct before I re-inflated the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was still a small area where the tyre had not seated completely down but not as much as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a test ride on a really smooth road surface and there was no discernible wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to all those who posted on here and resolved my problem without going to the bike shop and spending more money and also another benefit I have learned something that may help in the future&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11197" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T03:33:06.193" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T03:33:06.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T08:27:39.033" Score="3" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear hub is damaged. I have not yet inspected the source of the damage, but the wheel is moving sideways when rotating (a LOT), plus I rode it like this for about 35km. Therefore, I find it probable to soon need to replace the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim and spokes are new (couple of months of commuting). I suppose I wouldn't be running in the &quot;old spokes new hub&quot; problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old hub has 24 spokes. The disc rotor is attacked via 6 bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What else should I know in order to judge if a specific hub will be a compatible swap&lt;/em&gt; (beyond that getting the exact same hub should work okay).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T08:34:43.160" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T07:34:59.187" Title="What parameters are important when replacing a rear hub?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T08:56:35.723" Score="1" ViewCount="1572" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear hub is damaged. I have not yet inspected the source of the damage, but the wheel is moving sideways when rotating (a LOT), plus I rode it like this for about 35km. Therefore, I find it probable to soon need to replace the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim and spokes are new (couple of months of commuting). I suppose I wouldn't be running in the &amp;quot;old spokes new hub&amp;quot; problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that rear wheels are &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20829/what-does-a-dished-wheel-mean-how-to-tighten-spokes-on-such-a-wheel-without&quot;&gt;dished&lt;/a&gt;. Also, I have trued rims, using V-brake as a guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would like to do the repair (replace the hub) myself.&lt;/strong&gt; However, I do not own a truing stand, neither a spoke tension wrench, and find those quite pricy to purchase just for this one job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/4807/3927&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; I found a gem of an explanation of how to do it. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/8155/3927&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; it is concluded that without the tools, this is impossible. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/8153/3927&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; it is mentioned that experience can substitute the tools (I have none, unfortunately).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;is this doable&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot;. The wheel is the cheapest around, so ruining it won't be a big deal. The wheel will be tested on a commuter bike, and not for some off-road dangerous activities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I inspected the wheel and the hub is just fine. However, I have 4 broken spokes, manly loose ones, and the wheel is out of true. Sounds easy to fix!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the discussion. I think I will purchase 24 cheap spokes and see what happens, for the learning experience. Maybe next month there will be a question around &amp;quot;how do I replace my rim&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, thanks for the references:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-tires.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mike T&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T06:08:48.890" Title="Rebuilding a rear wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21469" CreationDate="2014-05-09T12:48:00.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find some recreation types who could make you a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sashimono&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sashimono&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the budget, if any, for buying commercial off-the-shelf Cycle Campaign advertising flags (could perhaps be re-used at desk outside Guildhall or similar events)?&#xA;Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.printlit.co.uk/expo/beach-flag/backflag/eco&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.printlit.co.uk/expo/beach-flag/backflag/eco&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gL7TS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;backpack mounted flag&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bannershop.co.uk/products/teardrop_wind_flag.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bannershop.co.uk/products/teardrop_wind_flag.htm&lt;/a&gt; &quot;Other commonly used names for this product are beach banners, free-standing flags, wind flags, promotional flags, advertising flags, custom printed flags, or retail flags.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T12:48:00.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21496" CreationDate="2014-05-09T22:26:16.140" Score="9" ViewCount="18382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an opportunity to buy a barely-used Allez Elite for a very small amount of money (around $100). However, its frame size may be slightly different than the &quot;ideal&quot; size for me. If this difference in size will make the bike uncomfortable on extended rides, I'd rather purchase a different one that fits well, even for more money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based upon my height and leg length, I ought to be using a 55cm bike frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much smaller/larger of a frame can I use before it will be uncomfortable? +/- 5cm? More? Less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11207" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T04:59:14.317" Title="How much does non-ideal frame size matter?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21495" CreationDate="2014-05-09T22:48:49.057" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, note that frame sizes aren't standard - you may ride a 55cm in one model, but a 52cm in another model (say, comparing road racers to cross bikes). And, you do pick your model based on preference - I prefer a larger bike than most people of my height, since I have relatively long legs and long arms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time, you can go about 1 frame size above or below the ideal frame size (thats around +/- 2 cm in model numbers, typically ) with part tweaking - the most important measure being top tube length, which can be drastically different between similarly labeled models (This can be offset with saddle and stem replacements to some extent, but the adjustment ability is relatively limited). &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is why getting good bike fit is important (and why people have to try bikes before buying them) - the geometry chart isn't super useful unless you know how that chart fits you (and some relevant swappable parts like saddles come into play as well).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Of course, you have to be careful with this, especially for bikes which will be used off road (you wouldn't want to hit the wedding jewels on the top tube for example). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on the topic of frame sizing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what its worth, if I had to intuitively place a 55cm, 60cm, and 50 cm road bike, for males, I'd guess a 50cm being for people closer to 5'2&quot; ish, 55cm for people closer to 5'6&quot;, and 60 cm for people who are probably 6'1&quot; ish. But again, this is completely useless without trying the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add, most likely, a wrong frame size (or misadjusted frame) will lead to back pain or knee pain. Both are not fun to deal with once you're past being a teenager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2014-05-10T04:59:14.317" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T04:59:14.317" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21480" CreationDate="2014-05-10T06:07:08.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need to start from the point where you say that any lock is breakable, if the thief is sufficiently determined. But I do think your insurance arrangements will have a bearing on what lock to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, rather than asking &quot;what lock should I get to prevent my bike being stolen?&quot;, I think it makes more sense to ask &quot;what lock do I need to get so that if my bike gets stolen, the insurance co will cough up?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So essentially rather than asking your question on here, it might be more useful just to contact your insurance company and ask them for a list of approved locks. You don't say where in the world you live, but in the UK there is a &quot;sold secure&quot; scheme which I think a lot of insurers use, with different levels (bronze, silver, gold) required depending on the value of the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its also worth noting that the lock on its own is most likely only part of the story - my own policy places restrictions on what I can lock the bike to (must be immovable) and where and for how long I can leave the bike unattended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Sold Secure scheme itself, I've spoken to people who say that it is all a marketing ploy to get you to buy certain locks over others, and their rating of a particular lock has no bearing on how good the lock is. This may or may not be the case, but again I'd stress that its not about preventing the bike from being stolen, its about the insurance company paying out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making an assumption that your bike is insured. If it isn't, you're really taking a punt when you buy a lock. It might be worth going over to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soldsecure.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Sold Secure&quot; web site&lt;/a&gt; (or seeing if there is an equivalent scheme in your country) but as I say it is questionable just how objective these schemes are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-05-10T06:13:23.083" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T06:13:23.083" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21501" CreationDate="2014-05-10T10:01:54.710" Score="0" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to do a bit of light touring and want to outfit an old mountain bike to be up to the task. But most of the bikes I'm looking at have some crappy/mid-range suspension on them, which – to my understanding – only adds weight and an additional point of failure (at least from the perspective of touring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm wondering about is, &lt;strong&gt;is it possible to buy a fixed fork for a bike and replace the suspension&lt;/strong&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what sort of things should I watch out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T10:16:04.340" Title="Removing suspension from a bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-05-11T05:11:47.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21500" CreationDate="2014-05-10T10:16:04.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This should not be a problem. A decent Al-fork will easily replace a crappy 'suspension' fork. You'll just need to check for the right length and diameter of the stem and maybe replace the direction bearing as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T10:16:04.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5546" CreationDate="2014-05-10T11:56:44.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my own personal experience, inflating the rear tire to the maximum would be a lot faster. They also tried with mythbusters with cars. saving fuel by over inflating tires.&#xA;My tires are rated 50 PSI as recommended pressure, and 65 PSI for maximum pressure. when I go for 60 PSI the 6th gear feels like 5 and it enables me to maintain higher average speeds.&#xA;As an added bonus, inflating tires near the maximum rated pressure makes it more puncture resistant.&#xA;The only drawback is it a little bit bumpy. I use bike for short distances (10 KM on average), so speed is the most important factor for me.&#xA;Hope that this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11214" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T11:56:44.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21492" CreationDate="2014-05-10T17:56:59.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically it's doable, but as mentioned in comments to question, it's very hard to make it good. However there are tools that you can make yourself, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;There you have also a good guide to build a wheel.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'd suggest to replace any damaged spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T17:56:59.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21491" CreationDate="2014-05-11T03:53:46.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need the: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;right width to match the dropouts you are fitting the wheel to (135 mm for rear hubs, 100mm for front typically).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;same number of spokes as the rim you intend to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the right brake rotor mounting (center lock or 6 bolt).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the right axle width, diameter and fastening for the dropout (bolt thru, butted axle, quick release or thru axle (eg. maxle / maxle lite).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the wheel together is a whole different matter, and there are tons of questions on wheel building here as well as entire books (like Brandt's The Bicycle Wheel). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for 24 spokes, I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with a 24 spoke wheel in most cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T07:34:59.187" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T07:34:59.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-11T09:49:14.743" Score="9" ViewCount="23655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a new front disk brake and the rotor rubs a bit once per rotation.  If I take the rotor off and place it on flat surface, it seems totally flat but once installed I can see/hear it rubbing onto the installed disk brake caliper once a rotation.  It's enough friction that it's making the wheel stop spinning pretty soon compared with when spin it with the brake off(not sure how to quantify it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The new brake is an hydrolic Avid 7 Elixer and it replaced the original (also hydrolic) Avid 7 Juicy that came with the bike.  It's the original rotor.  The fork is a Lefty and therefore there's not any adjustment to be done on the wheel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T08:30:46.263" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T19:46:22.140" Title="Should rotors have no rub at all?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21510" CreationDate="2014-05-11T11:51:11.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some rub is OK. No rub is optimal. Normal riding can bend the rotors, so the &quot;no rub&quot; situation never lasts forever. This can be fixed though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can adjust the caliper to reduce rub (or completelly eliminate it). The bolt holes are not very tight so you can play around with offseting the caliper accordingly. Just unscrew the 2 allen bolts a bit and start playing around with offsets. Looking &lt;strong&gt;through&lt;/strong&gt; the brake pads and disk to a bright coloured floor (e.g white) makes this process very easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the space of the pads is not enough to allow zero rub then you can try to straighten the disk. Use a clean rug/paper towler to grab it and give it slight push or pull on the spot it's bent. Never touch the rotor with your hand because the hand has a bit of oil which can reduce the performance of your brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that your brake is new doesn't mean that it should be 100% rub free. There is a small possibility that the hub 6 bolt platform is slightly off. So a new disk will always look bent when rotating between the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T09:57:38.973" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T09:57:38.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-11T11:51:45.250" Score="3" ViewCount="4911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Soma flip flop singlespeed and the free side cog is a piece of junk. I've ordered a White Industries freewheel cog to replace it and my question is, how is this done and what tools are required? Well, actually two questions. Thanks, JB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11223" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T15:35:44.040" Title="Changing freewheel singlespeed cog" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21512" CreationDate="2014-05-11T15:35:44.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a freewheel remover tool which fits the cog you have. Park Tool makes a lot of these, and has some excellent directions for replacing the freewheel &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-and-freewheel-removal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (and in the unlikely event you can't get a remover tool which works, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freewheel-destructive-removal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;destructive way of removing freewheels&lt;/a&gt;, which is a last resort - we will assume you have the tool). Sheldon Brown also has some directions &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly speaking what you'll do is you'll look at the freewheel you have, buy the appropriate freewheel remover tool and a large crescent wrench or similar. Then, you'll put the freewheel remover tool into the notches on the freewheel and snug up your quick release skewer / axle nut to hold it in place. Then, using a crescent wrench or vise, turn counterclockwise for 1 turn of the freewheel remover tool, and then remove the QR skewer / axle nut. Then, use the crescent wrench / vise to remove the freewheel the rest of the way (still counterclockwise). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installing the new freewheel is straightforward - apply anti-seize, thread it onto to the mounting threads (take care not to cross thread) all the way, and you're done. It will feel weird at first, but as you ride more, the freewheel will tighten down on the hub. You can also use a chain whip (clockwise) to tighten it down all the way if you want, before you ride (this will prevent the weird feeling). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T15:35:44.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21524" CreationDate="2014-05-11T16:08:47.880" Score="0" ViewCount="697" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the head angle on a full suspension mountain bike measured with our without sag? I would imagine that the rear shock sagging would give a slacker head angle than what is measured without sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="4644" LastEditDate="2014-05-11T19:07:57.717" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T04:19:02.597" Title="Is the head angle on full suspension bikes given with or without sag?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21483" CreationDate="2014-05-11T16:52:40.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have only broken the upper part, which I have marked A on the exploded view diagram, then I don't think that serves a functional purpose other than making the brake levers look nicer. Therefore, you should be able to continue to use the levers so long as part B is in place, but without the added thickness of part A, the screws (part C) may be too long to fit in the threaded holes in the lever body. Shimano lists these as being 'M3 x 8', and they appear to be Phillips pan-head machine screws. You'd want to buy some M3 x 6mm machine screws to replace them and be sure of not bottoming out the screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Whiov.png&quot; alt=&quot;ST-M765 exploded view excerpt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, Shimano make available the entire reservoir cover assembly, (26) on the diagram, under the part numbers &lt;code&gt;Y-6JK 98080&lt;/code&gt; for the right-hand assembly and &lt;code&gt;Y-6JK 98090&lt;/code&gt; for the left hand assembly. You may be able to find an online stockist of these spares, or possibly ask your LBS to order them from Shimano. However, as M760 series Deore XT is relatively old, it is unlikely that any spares will be available direct, and you'll have to hope that shops have the parts already in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full exploded view diagram is available at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.paul-lange.de/support/shimano/explosionszeichnungen_archiv/ST//ST-M765.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.paul-lange.de/support/shimano/explosionszeichnungen_archiv/ST//ST-M765.PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10272" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T16:52:40.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20553" CreationDate="2014-05-11T20:38:40.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strava is now connected with Movescount so you can sync together your stuff via &lt;a href=&quot;https://tapiriik.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11230" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T12:18:11.197" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T12:18:11.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-11T22:14:57.073" Score="2" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;i've got a Cotic Roadrat, and the disc mount on the fork is on the right hand side (as you're seated).  However, the front rotor of the avid BB5s (road) i just bought can only be fit on the left fork if I am to follow the installation instructions to the letter - ie rotation must follow the arrow, and the writing must be facing outward.  Can I use this rotor on the right hand side? That is, keep the rotation correct, but have the writing facing inwards?  Are both sides the an avid rotor the same? I assume its the direction of rotation that is the important bit, and not the surface.  Thanks, PB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11229" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T01:16:09.307" Title="Are both sides of a Avid rotor the same?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21519" CreationDate="2014-05-11T22:58:06.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rotors are identical on both sides but are marked to ensure correct rotation as they aren't bi-directional. Few hubs and forks allow for a right hand mounted disc so rotors are only marked for left hand set up. The water and mud shedding capabilities drives the design and direction they should turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The earlier Roadrat RB2 was designed for a right hand mounted disc brake (outwards facing on front fork) to negate pressures put on the wheel when braking. The wheel was simply reversed in the drop  out. The new RB3 fork has a left hand mounted disc brake but uses a 9mm thru-axle design which integrates with current 9mm QR hubs. Lawyer lugs achieve the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T01:16:09.307" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T01:16:09.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-12T03:27:19.357" Score="8" ViewCount="5626" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I finally want to upgrade from my 1980 Schwinn World Sport 10-speed with suicide shifters to something more modern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be working in Texas this summer and want to commute to work, but I highly doubt that the office has a place indoors to keep my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it bad to spend $800 to $1000 on a new road bike if it will be left outside 9-6 everyday? I will have a backpack so a tarp is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11232" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T16:16:23.083" Title="Good idea to commute with a road bike and keep it outside?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21521" CreationDate="2014-05-12T04:06:41.317" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forget the tarp. Ultimately, the greatest danger to your bike is not the weather, it's thieves. As long as you invest in a good lock, practice good locking technique, and don't live in an area full of degenerates you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is worth more than $1000 and I ride it all over and lock it up outside frequently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you select your bike, don't get the flashiest, most decal laden option available. Get a low-key, plain looking bike. Especially good if it has stickers and dings in it. Ideally, your bike will be the worst looking bike on the rack, let other people's bikes be the targets for thieves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mrE1p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is a picture of my primary bike&lt;/a&gt;, which I've used to commute and go to the bars and get groceries etc (though I don't have the rack in the picture). I have a fairly fancier appearing wheelset on this bike, yet I've left it locked up in fairly dodgy places, but I still have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this question for additional information regarding bike security: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4762/theft-deterrents-in-addition-to-locking-up-a-bike/7225#7225&quot;&gt;Theft deterrents (in addition to locking up a bike)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T04:06:41.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21521" CreationDate="2014-05-12T04:08:17.093" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on your wallet and level of risk aversion. Most people with nice bikes tend to baby them by having a beater bike for commuting that is ugly, won't get stolen, and they won't worry about if it starts rusting up or gets road grime on it. Since you already have a beater, why not keep it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T04:08:17.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21514" CreationDate="2014-05-12T04:19:02.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally they are measured unsagged. Usually, as @alex said, it doesn't matter, since they are full suspension bikes, but some setup (e.g setup for super steep races) where you want your rear end softer, it would matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some hardcore hardtails (e.g the blue pig of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ragleybikes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ragleybikes.com/&lt;/a&gt;) measure the head angle in a sagged situation. Because they are hardtails they only nose dive under the rider's weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T04:19:02.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21521" CreationDate="2014-05-12T04:21:44.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't skimp on the lock and you'll be alright. Buy a high quality U lock, and never, ever, ever, use a cable lock. Protect your investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclocross.com/product/kryptonite-kryptolok-series-2-mini-u-lock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclocross.com/product/kryptonite-kryptolok-series-2-mini-u-lock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/141/best-bike-lock&quot;&gt;Best bike lock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T04:21:44.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21521" CreationDate="2014-05-12T05:48:52.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tarp is a bad idea because it keeps condensation inside. It's much better to find a covered lockup area. There should be something near your work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look seriously into a place at work to keep your bike. This is by far the best option for both security and keeping your bike in nice shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this isn't practical, get the best lock you can afford and google up on how to use it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11235" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T05:48:52.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-12T05:49:58.347" Score="0" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to reduce/eliminate the squeaking sound on my Shimano V-brakes? I dont remember doing anything, i just wipe my bike and rims every after ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11234" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T06:30:23.780" Title="Shimano Deore Squeaking Sound" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21527" CreationDate="2014-05-12T06:30:23.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check if there is any mud in brake pads.&#xA;Try cleaning the rims with alcohol :)&#xA;Read this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/mountain-biking/45251-cleaning-rims-alcohol-benzine-solvent.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/mountain-biking/45251-cleaning-rims-alcohol-benzine-solvent.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8591" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T06:30:23.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21521" CreationDate="2014-05-12T07:11:12.183" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ask the boss/janitor if there is some storage space available. Maybe there's a storage closet, the bottom of a stairwell, unused rooms in the basement or some such. In my current job, we have a corner in storage where old equipment is stored until there is enough to scrap, and I was always allowed to put my bike there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get your space, think about putting a tarp on the floor to keep it clean if your bike is wet or you hang your gaiters on the bike to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can even get your bosses to put in a bike rack in a spare room/garage and promote cycling to work to keep people fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T07:11:12.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21532" CreationDate="2014-05-12T08:31:19.823" Score="0" ViewCount="1220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm told that when touring (carrying a big load) you're much better off to have 26&quot; wheels than 28&quot;. But most second-hand bikes seem to come with 28&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it possible to replace the larger 28&quot; wheels with smaller 26&quot; ones?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What sorts of issues would I run into?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedals hitting the ground?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;v brakes not being able to reach tires? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gear/derailleur issues?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T09:17:47.083" Title="Replacing 28in wheels with 26in" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21531" CreationDate="2014-05-12T09:17:47.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible to put smaller wheels into a bike frame but I can't see why you would want to. Bike frames are designed for a certain size wheel, so putting smaller ones in will affect the handling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've already mentioned the brakes not working correctly, which is a fairly major factor. Pedals may or may not hit the ground, but you'd certainly have less ground clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't said why smaller 26&quot; wheels are better. A bike with 26&quot; wheels might be better for what you want to do, but just fitting 26&quot; wheels to a bike made for 28&quot; wheels is not good idea for the reasons above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;K  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11237" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T09:17:47.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21552" CreationDate="2014-05-12T09:42:22.610" Score="5" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m529e.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips on riding this section of the trail? The land is sandy and the clearance afterwords is several meters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't ride it slowly, as it is too steep and the sand will slide off. I suspect the suspension could probably handle the trench, but didn't try, let alone for jumping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the correct way to pass this obstacle on a long-travel full-suspension bike? What about a rigid XC bike?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T09:13:33.617" Title="Any tips on riding a roll-off, followed by a trench?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="188" CreationDate="2014-05-12T13:05:07.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my ~1 month experience with the Deore (11 speed?) internally geared hub compared with well-maintained derailleur systems of comparable quality and newness, the internally geared hub has a noticeable amount of internal loss. Note that this test was carried out about a year ago. I ended up returning the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First test (idle loss): turn the crank a few times and get the wheel to spin, see how long it continues to spin. This will tell you how much energy is lost in the hub. In my experience the loss is noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second test (loss under power): using a similar gear ratio, turn the crank at a fixed speed for about a minute, you will get an idea of how much energy input is needed to keep the wheels turning at a fast, steady pace. Compare the two energy inputs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11240" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T13:05:07.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21561" CreationDate="2014-05-12T13:13:28.497" Score="0" ViewCount="2473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a hybrid cycle to/from work each day (10 km / 6 US miles each way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handle bars are flat, and I ride with my thumbs gripped around the handle and 2 fingers close to or over the brakes (I feel safer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year I rode every weekday without problems, but this year I am getting some pain in my front shoulder muscle on my right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was doing 20 chinups and 50 pushups each day, so I cut these out for a while to see if it would help. I'm still cycling and still getting the pain. It hurts most when I sleep at night (I am a side sleeper) and when I wake up I feel the pain in a small area (front deltoid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if other people had similar pain and any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps riding with my seat higher, or riding a racing bike would help, or even those little &quot;verticle handles&quot; that can be attached on very the end of my handle bars pointing upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe my muscle development was assymetric with all the exercises that hit the front (cycling, pushups) without balancing exercises for the back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 39, 6 foot / 86 kg and in otherwise very good physical shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any tips / advice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I'm a computer programmer by trade and use my right arm often during the day with the mouse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11241" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T09:27:28.180" Title="Pain in my front shoulder muscle - suggestions? (Hybrid cycle)" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;pain&gt;&lt;muscle-pain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-12T13:53:26.597" Score="2" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there software / online resources / Drupal distribution capable of letting riders self-track and perhaps rank various routes around a location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end goal is to let new riders pair up with more experienced riders and let these folks share questions and advice on various routes in/out of a central location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-05-14T23:25:35.223" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T02:47:29.137" Title="Software to track and plan group rides" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;maps&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21546" CreationDate="2014-05-12T14:18:17.180" Score="6" ViewCount="2334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the standard drop handlebars on my road bike. When I'm in the lower position, my head is pointing down so my eyes are looking at the road and my front tire. Looking forward requires me to tilt my head up to an awkward angle and I often get a kink in my neck after a longish ride. Are there mirrors available which I could mount on my bike which would provide me a front facing view while still keeping my head down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11243" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T20:42:11.020" Title="Are there front looking mirror options?" Tags="&lt;mirrors&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21521" CreationDate="2014-05-12T16:26:37.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the worse case, leaving an $800 bike outside during the day should not be a big issue for the bike itself. You may want to cover up your saddle and  clean and lube it a little more often if you do get caught in some downpours.  However, I've often found overhangs in even the most bike unfriendly places that can provide some protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely, there are some other bike riders at work that can clue you into good places to park your bike. Many places allow you to bring the bike into the office. Others have &quot;official&quot; or &quot;unofficial&quot; bike parking places. (I've seen areas under stairwells be used as bike storage. I've also seen storage rooms or corners of conference rooms be used.) If the building has a parking garage, there may be some bike racks tucked away there. You just may need to do some investigation. (At my current workplace, there are underground bike racks. However, only one of the two automatic gates is sensitive enough to allow bikes. There also is a sign right next to the entrance saying &quot;no skateboards, skates or bikes.&quot; Go figure.) Sometimes, the office security person can help you out, but just because they don't know does not mean there is not something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do need to chain it to a pole outside, just take reasonable precautions. A good U-lock is your friend. You probably don't want to leave anything of value that could be easily removed (like a bike computer.) That may be enough for a typical office building. If you are more concerned there are extra precautions that can be made, but that is probably not needed unless you are in a really bad area. (On one job, I had a $600 bike locked with a cable lock stolen on my first day of work. I parked an $800 bike in the same place with a good U-lock for the next 4 years and didn't have any problems - other than a stolen GPS that I lift sitting on the bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11246" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T16:26:37.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21521" CreationDate="2014-05-12T16:29:10.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're probably fine. I live in Brooklyn and commute to Manhattan by bike some days. I also lock my bike up (with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/855066/?cm_mmc=cse_PLA-_-pla-_-product-_-8550660001&amp;amp;kryptonite-new-york-1210-chain-lock&amp;amp;preferredSku=8550660001&amp;amp;mr%3atrackingCode=E791892B-6C92-E211-BA78-001B21631C34&amp;amp;mr%3areferralID=NA&amp;amp;mr%3adevice=c&amp;amp;mr%3aadType=pla&amp;amp;mr%3aad=44272128640&amp;amp;mr%3akeyword=&amp;amp;mr%3amatch=&amp;amp;mr%3afilter=61471047520&amp;amp;msid=qAST53KZ_dc|pcrid|44272128640|#specsTab&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) outside. One advantage of the location of the rack to which I lock-up my bike is that it's in a public place and there's a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of pedestrian (and car and bike) traffic nearby. But probably the biggest reason why it hasn't been stolen is that it's not a $1000+ bike. If you're going to be locking your bike up outside in a high-theft area, do yourself a favor and get a cheaper used bike off of Craigslist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an eye-opening review of bike locks, checkout &lt;a href=&quot;http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-bike-lock/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Best Bike Lock | The Sweethome&lt;/a&gt;. The author met several bike thieves and details how they operate. In fact, one of the thieves probably stole the authors $1000+ bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1459" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T16:29:10.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-12T16:58:12.670" Score="8" ViewCount="1692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to buy a new Road bike and there seems to be a host new road bikes with disc brakes, I've had a Mountain bike with disc and it's fine, just wondering what the pros and cons of having a road bike with discs apart from the looks, should I stick with the traditional proven rim brake or have a more in depth look at disc brakes as the industry seems to be inclining towards discs.. I will not be changing bikes for at least 3 years so want to make the right decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any experiences from roadies who have used disc brakes would be welcome as well as your opinions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many Thanks&#xA;Savio  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11248" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T09:51:12.340" Title="Road bikes rim brake or disc brake" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21541" CreationDate="2014-05-12T17:35:48.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently ride a &quot;hybrid&quot; bike- which is flat handlebars, narrow (28mm) tyres with disc brakes. I also have a road bike (23mm tyres) with standard rim brakes. I would say that the disc brakes give me a lot more confidence in the wet. Rim brakes in wet conditions are terrible, taking at least 3x the distance to stop- even with maximum power applied. The reason that professionals haven't made the jump to discs is 2 fold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight of the disc brakes- this will get better, but currently its a&#xA;huge factor &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legal issues regarding the bike rules/regulations are&#xA;currently stopping them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would say, as long as you don't mind the weight- and realize that there is a lot less choice of wheels, then go disc!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T17:35:48.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21537" CreationDate="2014-05-12T17:37:49.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be very tempted to say that your bike isn't setup correctly for you. It shouldn't cause any back/neck issues after a long ride (although you don't say how long that is). If you handlebars/stem is of the correct length/height, then you shouldn't have any issues seeing in front of you- nor pains in these areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question- I am unaware of any mirrors, and this seems like it would be a very dangerous way to ride your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T17:37:49.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21541" CreationDate="2014-05-12T18:14:53.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road/gravel bike with a disk front brake and there are almost no downsides for solo riding from my experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Pros:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much more flexibility is choosing wheel size and tire. I can run fat tire 650b wheels or skinny 700c wheels. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Much better braking in wet conditions, braking in dry conditions is similar, but with better control (i.e. modulation). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to get wheels off when you have a flat. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most are either self-adjusting for pad wear or have a simple finger adjustment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cons:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly heavier wheels and brakes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotors get hot, brake fade is a possibility if you consistently drag the brake. Long steep descents take some &quot;brake heat&quot; management. This can also be an issue with rim brakes, but generally it takes a much longer descent and more abuse to cause problems with rim brakes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydro brakes have more mechanical complexity, difficult to impossible to make on the road repairs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use wire disk brakes on my road bike with no issues. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting the wheel back on is a bit more fiddly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you ride in a group often, there are some safety issues around hot rotors and potential crashes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T09:51:12.340" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T09:51:12.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21541" CreationDate="2014-05-12T18:32:23.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no compelling reason for using disk brakes on a standard road bike, unless you cycle in unusual conditions.  Rim brakes are cheaper, lighter, simpler, less hassle when changing tires, easier to repair in the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, disk or drum brakes have sometimes been used on tandems and heavy mountain touring bikes, because they can provide more total braking force, but these are conditions that few cyclists experience in &quot;normal&quot; riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, as always the &quot;gee whiz&quot; factor is a major consideration for many people, and disk brakes are niftier and sexier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T18:32:23.960" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21537" CreationDate="2014-05-12T19:24:26.410" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they exist, though they are expensive and meant for racing rather than for general purpose riding on regular roads. One example is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shop.view-speed.com/View-Speed-Cyclops-Glasses-610098715948.htm&quot;&gt;View Speed Cyclops&lt;/a&gt; glasses. They take a lot of getting used to but in the arcane world of time-trial racing they have their adherents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="6757" LastEditDate="2014-05-14T16:16:27.423" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T16:16:27.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21510" CreationDate="2014-05-12T19:46:22.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're getting rub once per revolution, the rotor is not flat and should be trued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to true it in-place by trial and error, or for best results use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/dial-indicator-kit-dt-3i&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dial indicator&lt;/a&gt; in a truing stand to really get it flat. With some practice and patience, it's possible to true a rotor within 0.05mm or less. Testing a rotor by placing it on a flat surface is not anywhere near precise enough to completely eliminate brake rub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that once you've trued the rotor, you don't bend it out of shape again while installing it. It's easy to accidently bend it by engaging the brakes when the rotor is far out of center between the shoes - check visually that the shoes are at least somewhat close before pulling on the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7035" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T19:46:22.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3689" CreationDate="2014-05-12T22:11:15.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mountain Unicycling (MUni) has become increasingly popular since it came on the scene in the early 1990s. To cope with the terrain, MUni unicycles are better built than regular unicycles often with double-bolted seat-post clamps and a brake. Riders usually wear helmets and shin/wrist guards due to the high likelihood of a UPD (unplanned dismount).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most famous MUni rider has to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://krisholm.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kris Holm&lt;/a&gt; who nowadays has his own range of unicycles and equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/tKDpGugVsR4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an example of what is possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11252" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T22:11:15.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21553" CreationDate="2014-05-13T01:22:51.747" Score="0" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding my Lespo single-speed since April, and been contemplating whether to change my handles to a drop bar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNS76.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice if changing to a drop bar will have a dramatic effect on my fitness and overall riding experience? I usually ride an hour at around 15-20 km, on a village road terrain with some hills and humps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current handle bar is a Truvativ World Cup riser bar.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11234" LastEditorUserId="11234" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T01:47:19.160" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T04:16:24.217" Title="Drop Bar for Lespo Frame?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21533" CreationDate="2014-05-13T03:33:52.753" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I come across something like that, instead of riding straight down the hill I will head down &lt;em&gt;across&lt;/em&gt; the hill on a diagonal. You can carry more speed this way and you won't hit the far wall of the trench and risk being sent over the bars, when your bike comes to an immediate stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This goes for any type of bike, rigid or full suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the risk of crashing in the ditch is low, I'll go straight down the hill while managing my speed. When at the bottom, simply lift the front end enough to clear the far side of the trench. This of course requires quite a bit of effort and/or skill depending on the surface of the ground, the slope you are descending the size of the trench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, get enough speed and jump the entire thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8655" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T03:33:52.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21551" CreationDate="2014-05-13T04:16:24.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Switching bars affects bike fit. So, you may not fit well to a bike when switching handle bar types, since the way you hold onto the bars changes - you may need a different stem length (and height) or more saddle adjustment than on your current seat post than is possible to get a good fit (if its even possible - it isn't always). Note that well adjusted drop bars actually let you use the drops, not just the hoods or the middle of the bar or whatever. Also, drop bars have a different diameter where the brakes what not clamp on, so you need new brake levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop bars give you multiple hand positions (which can convert to more aggressive riding positions), which is useful on longer rides (20 km is a pretty short ride), so you won't really see much gain and you will have to buy new brake levers. So, I wouldn't recommend getting drop bars. With a flat/riser bar, there exist bar ends to provide a few more hand positions (Ergon GP3 is the set I use on my commuter, but primarly for the sweet grips rather than the ends). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some good reading on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;setting handle bar height&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;types of handlebars&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Totally unrelated, but wow that saddle is tilted downwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Want more fitness? Ride longer and harder. Multiple speeds may help with hills (esp if you have knee issues). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T04:16:24.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21541" CreationDate="2014-05-13T07:45:33.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that in 2 years every &quot;high-end&quot; bike will have disk brakes and electric gears. Disk Brakes are currently still in production testing for the Pro Bike Teams. In Belgium the Belgian Cycling Committee is talking about allowing this for Pro Bike Teams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11254" LastEditorUserId="8656" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T08:50:08.550" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T08:50:08.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-13T08:44:22.967" Score="0" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple Question: May I use WD40 to lubricate my single-speed chain? Does it not have any negative effects in terms of the chain performance and biking in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11234" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T11:21:33.223" Title="WD40 on Single-Speed Chain" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-05-14T15:47:32.933" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21558" CreationDate="2014-05-13T08:56:24.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK WD40 would clean, but won't lubricate. And generally isn't really meant for bikes. Also one should be very careful with WD40 around wheel rims and breaks for obvious reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the lubrication I've been told in a shop to use a lubricant after every ride (I live in Ireland, YMMV). Wipe the dirt, drop a drop of the lubricant on every link, wipe it again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R77LP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11255" LastEditorUserId="11255" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T11:21:33.223" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T11:21:33.223" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2014-05-13T08:57:11.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the advice given by @GuyZee: It's all about momentum. Make sure you have established a rhythm with your cadence (&lt;em&gt;rolling start&lt;/em&gt;) and just before the climb, &lt;strong&gt;push and never look back!&lt;/strong&gt; I do this personally, with the addition of adapting a road biker's stance (leaning slightly forward at least) and it works quite well. Not to mention that the next time I climb that hill, I feel considerably stronger and more confident.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11234" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T08:57:11.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21535" CreationDate="2014-05-13T09:27:28.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;DISCLAIMER: This is by no means a definitive answer, but one of the options you may want to look into. Also as this borders on a medical advice, this is only meant to give a kind of guidance, not a prescription. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So one way to deal with pains caused by a substantial amount of cycling is to get your bike fitted, i.e. measured to see if your seat post is high/low enough for you, your cranks are of correct length and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be leaning too much (or indeed not enough!), which could strain your back and/or shoulders, so it could be the case you need your stem shortened (or otherwise lengthened!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my stem shortened from 100mm to 90mm due to me leaning too much and getting quite a lot of pain in my shoulder blades. However I've had my bike professionally fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11255" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T09:27:28.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21558" CreationDate="2014-05-13T09:52:08.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the best chain lubes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teflon-based lube for dry conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silicon-based lube for wet-muddy conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11256" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T09:52:08.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21568" CreationDate="2014-05-13T12:26:43.653" Score="8" ViewCount="17236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told by a friend that 26&quot; wheels are better than 28&quot; wheels for touring. Is this true? What are the pro's and con's? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm told that 26&quot; wheels are stronger for their spoke count. What are the practical implications of this? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there other reliability concerns? and how much of a concern/win are they?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does one size have an advantage in terms of ease of carrying a heavy load? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does one have an advantage in terms of the sorts of terrain it can traverse? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some context&lt;/strong&gt;: We're going on a 800km trip in southern Germany and I'm looking to acquire a decent bike for this trip, and hopefully many other such trips (potentially more adventurous ones too). I basically just want to pick up a good base bike that I slowly build on and figure that I should invest in a frame that supports the right size of tires from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T07:05:08.133" Title="26&quot; vs 28&quot; wheels for touring" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21533" CreationDate="2014-05-13T13:06:37.370" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try to wheelie the entire descent. This would at least avoid a flip-over, but you will probably lose most of you speed to the rear shock compression when you hit the ditch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T13:06:37.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21321" CreationDate="2014-05-13T13:26:48.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little more experience with the bike and trails around, so let me comment on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that passing through several ankle-deep bodies of water already robs the chain of all it's lube (I use &quot;Finish line&quot; &quot;wet conditions&quot; generously applied). That is, &lt;strong&gt;the chain has been submerged several times completely in water&lt;/strong&gt;. Subsequently, the chain feels dry and grinds specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, my advice would be to clean (a couple of wipes with a handkerchief) and lube (with at least a simple $1 oil from the hardware store) &lt;strong&gt;after the worst has passed&lt;/strong&gt;. This means either after the wet section, or at least, before the asphalt ride home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, if you have more than a couple of kilometers to home, and the &lt;strong&gt;chain feels dry (it rubs and squeaks&lt;/strong&gt; specifically), dismount and spend 2 minutes to prolong it's life and make your ride more pleasant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T13:26:48.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21572" CreationDate="2014-05-13T13:51:10.537" Score="0" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a bicycle similar to this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DFbw4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Corratec Jazzbow&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I replaced the handlebars with straight one on mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there were some weird designs back in '90s, but some reason probably exists for creating a bike with such a long stem. Doesn't it create uncomfortable riding position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5316" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T19:24:29.653" Title="What could be the reason for stem this far away" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21563" CreationDate="2014-05-13T15:08:16.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that for loaded touring the place to start is tires, not wheel size. You need a bike that can accommodate larger tires. 32mm at a minimum and 40+ if you plan to travel on dirt roads or take on very heavy loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's generally easier to find a 26&quot; wheeled bike that can take larger tires, but if you find a 28&quot; bike that can accommodate larger tires that will work fine as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory if you build a 26&quot; wheel and a 28&quot; wheel with the same rim and spoke type/count, the 26&quot; wheel will be stronger. But there are plenty of people touring with 28&quot; wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to get a frame that fits you and has a comfortable geometry. If you're less than 170cm or so in height, 26&quot; wheels might make more sense on a bike that small. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at bikes that are built for touring and see what their specs are in terms of geometry and wheel size. Wheel size is the last thing you should be worrying about. Look at the specs for this bike &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the smaller sizes it comes with 26&quot; wheels and 28&quot; wheels in the larger sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T15:08:16.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21563" CreationDate="2014-05-13T15:39:57.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reference for non-Germans, 28&quot; means 700c. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most touring bikes do ship with 700c wheels these days (for not short riders - short riders often get 26&quot; or 650b wheels) and they work fine for people - the key is to have well built wheels for touring (for loaded touring, this means high spoke counts, good spokes and rims and hubs and the wheel being put together properly). If you like a good touring bike which comes in 26&quot; for your size but not 700c, then get the 26&quot;. Likewise, if you only have the 700c option, get it. This choice should mean good bike fit and decent quality components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I think the answer for all of them is pretty much a wash - you can find a good wheel which works in either size for almost everybody. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you want big tires for touring, so the air cushions you, but touring frames generally have this built in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T15:39:57.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="45206" CreationDate="2014-05-13T15:53:01.857" Score="4" ViewCount="2011" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are bike locks so fancy, so specialised?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a small padlock, e.g. original Abloy make a good bike lock when connected to a chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abloy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abloy&lt;/a&gt; (first image)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some common attacks that this combination protects particularly poorly from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain may have to be of toughened (motorcycle) variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video from Germany testing similar concept with a much heavier lock: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/aiaOSf2sQxM?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11260" LastEditorDisplayName="user11260" LastEditDate="2014-05-15T08:09:28.370" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T16:32:36.597" Title="Would an original Abloy padlock and [toughened] chain make a good bike lock?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21569" CreationDate="2014-05-13T16:03:28.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 seconds with boltcutters- either on the chain or on the padlock, and the thief will have stolen your bike. There are reasons why bike locks are designed the way they are- to stop/prevent this from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T16:03:28.540" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21566" CreationDate="2014-05-13T19:24:29.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bars were rotated back, they would not be so far away. And, if you wanted to tuck down and get more aerodynamic you could reach the part of the bar that is further away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T19:24:29.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21575" CreationDate="2014-05-13T20:46:51.870" Score="1" ViewCount="23537" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking to replace my hydraulic disc brakes but intend to use the old discs. How do I tell the size of the discs to ensure I purchase the right brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11265" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T12:57:12.920" Title="How do I tell the size of my braking discs?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-14T01:06:27.700" Score="12" ViewCount="727" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any actual experience with anti-theft GPS trackers like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.integratedtrackers.com/GPSTrack/Spybike.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BikeSpy&lt;/a&gt;? Their website looks terribly unprofessional and there are only very few testimonies online, but the idea is intreaging. I am especially interested in hearing from people who have tried products like BikeSpy in the US, since they rely on cell phone networks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there recurring costs? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long does the battery last? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How difficult is it to remove the product with common tools?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How reliably does the unit report unauthorized movement?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found the following similar questions, but none of the answers seem to come from people who have actually used the products in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/15151/are-there-electronic-active-theft-deterrents-for-bicycles/15158#15158&quot;&gt;Are there electronic/active theft deterrents for bicycles?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7803/gps-bike-tracking-locks&quot;&gt;GPS bike tracking (locks)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a good lock but live in a metropolitan area with ridiculously high rates of bicycle theft. I am not looking for an alternative for locking my bike, but for &quot;insurance,&quot; in case my bike gets nicked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6019" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T10:02:28.703" Title="Usage experience with anti-theft GPS trackers" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21573" CreationDate="2014-05-14T02:01:14.563" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The disc that you are talking about is in fact called the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rotor size is measured by diameter, ie. edge to edge through the centre. The size may also be etched on to the rotor which would be more accurate than measuring yourself. There are a number of common IS (International Standard) sizes of rotor from 140mm through to 203mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Callipers only come in one size but use various adapters/spacers to fit the rotor. Once you know what rotor you have you purchase a new brake set which may or may not include the adapter you need. Your current brake callipers would use the right size adapter for the rotor you are using, but may not be right for the brake you wish to purchase, companies have proprietary systems for attaching the calliper such as Avid's CPS which require special adapters or spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally there are two types of mounts for callipers post and IS. Most callipers are made to use post mounts while most frames still have IS mounts on the real dropout. An IS mount is like a fin with two holes in it while a post mount is two posts. IS adapters are used to allow the calliper to be fastened to the bike. Most recent forks are post mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T02:01:14.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21533" CreationDate="2014-05-14T03:32:53.173" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull hard just before hitting the 40cm obstacle and your MTB will handle the rest. It's best if you pull hard enough to make sure you hit the obstacle with both wheels. Expect both suspensions to bottom out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2014-05-14T06:14:21.127" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T06:14:21.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21573" CreationDate="2014-05-14T07:23:37.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As DWGKNZ says you could measure these. Alternatively, you could search online for your bike make/model &amp;amp; look at the specification. This would save you the time of taking the wheel off and measuring (and note front/back might be different sizes). This assumes that it has not been changed since you bought the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T07:23:37.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20532" CreationDate="2014-05-14T10:54:21.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A road triple will work. I run a shimano 600 arabesque drive train, chainrings 52-45-38 .28-13 7 speed cassette,double front der,short cage rear der.to make it work I use a 117.5x68 bb spindle and set the chainline up using the middle chainring and the middle cassette cog this setup works very nicely in the  coast mtns where I live. When I ride in the Sierra mtns I switch the cassette to a 32-14 7 speed with a long cage rear der.I limit the cassette setup to a  7 speed as any more cogs on the rear you are limited in gear selection by chain crossover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11268" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T10:54:21.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21492" CreationDate="2014-05-14T11:43:01.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Study sheldon brown's wheelbuilding site,sounds like this will be a learning experience for you,patience is the key as you learn to build wheels.When you are able to build and true your own wheels you will learn that a $100.00 bike with $1000.00 wheels is better than a $1000.00 bike with $100.00 wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11268" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T11:43:01.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1073" CreationDate="2014-05-14T14:31:05.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;GET A HELMET!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone who recently started commuting about 16 km per day, I can really recommend you to get a helmet. I've been working for about a year now at that place and at first I went with the bike. I managed fine the first 5 months, but I was involved in 3 accidents with damage to either me or my bike in the 4 months afterwards. the first time, a car trying to overtake me came too close and sideswiped me, leaving me with scratches on my hand and knee and a derailed chain. the second time, I got my rear tire bent on a busy intersection when I thought it was safe (a woman from the right who I thought was driving slowly thought I'd not cross. The third time, I took a left turn without noticing the oncoming mailman, breaking my front light and making my front tire flat. I got a helmet after the first accident. You might only need it once in your lifetime, but you'll be glad you got it when that time comes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11269" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T14:31:05.420" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-05-14T14:31:05.420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21536" CreationDate="2014-05-14T20:17:00.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can easily use software (like Strava, RunKeeper, etc.) as @PeteH mentioned to map a ride and discuss/comment the route on the dashboard afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can also just trace a route on GoogleMaps and discuss it on a simple blogging platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11204" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T20:17:00.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21321" CreationDate="2014-05-14T20:57:47.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the conditions are wet I make sure to use a Wet lube designed for those conditions and follow the directions on the bottle. Typically wet conditions call for more lube since the water can destroy the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not always need to reapply after every wet ride but you should be drying the bike off and giving everything a once over. You don't want to leave your bike sitting there wet in the corner like a step child. Gotta give that beast some love. Take care of it and it will take care of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That 100km mud ride sounds awesome! I would say to keep and eye and ear on things as the ride progresses. Here is a pretty good post about &lt;a href=&quot;http://coachlevi.com/racing/wet-muddy-mountain-bike-race-success/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;riding in muddy conditions&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;He seems like like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchDisplay?searchTerm=dumonde&amp;amp;catalogId=10551&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;storeId=10052&amp;amp;ddkey=http%3aPBSearchTermAssociationsCmd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dumonde Tech Lube&lt;/a&gt; for those conditions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dry chain can be heard pretty easily. It sounds like your bike is dying. If you are hearing excessive noise from your drivetrain then a dry chain may be culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11273" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T20:57:47.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21536" CreationDate="2014-05-15T02:47:29.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our club has a group on Strava where we can discuss various trails/segments. Outside of that we use Facebook groups and a forum on our website to setup group rides or getting people together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of anything that would allow you to simultaneously compare a rider's data and then match up riders based on similar ability (or the other way to get experienced riders helping newbies). This sounds like a good opportunity for someone to make something!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T02:47:29.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-15T04:57:52.980" Score="0" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have an offer to get Mavic Deemax Ultimates from 2011 for my downhill bike. They cost half as much as the current model.&#xA;Can anyone tell me what the changes are compared to the current models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9212" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T04:57:52.980" Title="Difference between Mavic Deemax Ultimate 2011 and latest version" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21602" CreationDate="2014-05-15T14:11:09.673" Score="2" ViewCount="3707" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted this video on Facebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/XwHNPfVM5Gk?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and someone commented that my power readings were a bit &quot;optimistic&quot; I asked why and he basically thought that if I'm getting 600W I should be doing a lot more than 30 MPH. He says he can cruise at 30 MPH at only 250W!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end he seemed satisfied that the difference is that he weighs 74KG, I am a bit over 100KG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another video someone commented that he would fly on a carbon bike with a nice groupset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that weight of bike / rider and groupset is going to make very little difference cruising on a flat with no gear shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I suddenly going to end up cruising at 40MPH at 600W when I loose 10KG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10367" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T11:00:31.570" Title="Does Bike or Rider Weight / Groupset affect cruising speed on the flat" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21590" CreationDate="2014-05-15T14:18:38.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got a rack and panniers, so I suppose you're on a commuter bike. It shouldn't surprise you that you cruise at 30mph (which is already quite fast). You would probably get far faster if you improved aerodynamics, e.g. on a road bike with narrow tyres and drops or TT bars. You wouldn't spend so much energy into ripping a gigantic hole into the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losing 10kg of weight will probably not help you much in this regard - at &gt; 30km/h weight doesn't really come into play much. As a Velomobile rider, I can easily cruise 40km/h over a long distance, although the bike weighs about 30kg with tools and food. It's all about aerodynamics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T14:18:38.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21590" CreationDate="2014-05-15T14:24:25.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various cycling power calculators out there that can help you with your questions, but the short and simple answer is that the main factor affecting bike top speed on flat ground is aerodynamic drag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecalculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bikecalculator.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drag varies as the square of velocity, so 40 mph will take nearly double the power of 30 mph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where weight makes a huge difference is in your acceleration rate. Acceleration rate is the key difference maker in bike racing. Losing 10kg will dramatically affect the time it takes you to go from stopped to 30 mph, it won't do much about your actual top speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T14:24:25.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21590" CreationDate="2014-05-15T14:32:24.273" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more you weigh, the more power required to get to, and maintain a certain speed.. but at the same time, generally, the more power you can produce.  On the flat you're mostly working against air resistance, a larger framed rider (less aerodynamic) will need more power to overcome the resistance than a smaller rider.  Generally aerodynamics of rider &amp;amp; weight of rider will have a strong correlation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;30mph is not at all slow, if you were able to maintain that for 20 km you'd actually post reasonably competitive times in a pro TT!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better groupset might save weight (although that's more important with climbing &amp;amp; accelerating), it might also give you a better selection of gears &amp;amp; better power transfer.  A carbon bike might be more aerodynamic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastEditorUserId="9031" LastEditDate="2014-05-16T14:46:21.213" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T14:46:21.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2965" CreationDate="2014-05-15T15:03:51.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I know that this is an old question, but nobody has answered it with real-world experience.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 'Scott Venture 10' as a suburban utility bike since two years. I don't ride it as much as my road bike, but it has seen its share of use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a carbon-fibre reinforced drive belt, and Shimano Alfine hub gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There a couple of advantages that I can think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't require any maintenance. (Or at least much less than a conventional chain. Especially when riding in rain.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have to tuck my trousers into my socks to keep them clean/whole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When walking past the bike in the shed I don't risk ruining my trousers by rubbing against a dirty chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;According to the manufacturers the estimated life of a belt is significantly longer than that of a chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage is (as mentioned above) that it requires a split frame, which one would naively think would reduce rigidity. The manufacturers claim that this is not the case, however... It's also quite a bit more expensive (and specialized) to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ideal chain is more efficient than a belt, but in most real-world scenarios there is no real difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T15:03:51.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14722" CreationDate="2014-05-15T18:27:01.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always go for the tint with the most mirror. The better I can see myself in the reflection the better the tint for me. I usually go with some really nice polarized sunglasses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11286" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-05-15T18:49:09.807" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T18:49:09.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21590" CreationDate="2014-05-16T00:45:26.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my observation of your vid, the peak power is while you are accelerating, not while cruising. I note that you produce ~700 W at times. I am assuming that you are using power measuring pedals / cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, when I was a Physics student we did stair runs up 15 floors to measure our power output; I and a couple of other fit people produced over one HP (746 W) and if memory serves me, I produced 1.5 HP. 40 years later, on a recent &lt;em&gt;lazy&lt;/em&gt; ride, Strava said I was peaking at 500 W (correction: as I learn to use Strava better, I see that was an average over 300m, the peak was 1200W for 10s over 80m). On flat cruising at 28 to 30 kph, Strava says I produce about 150 W. I weigh 70 kg (same as then).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I find your results to be reasonable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I should add, in answer to your question: no, weight doesn't effect speed on the flat. That is mainly determined for a given power level by your frontal area (but you knew that, it's why we crouch in a headwind). Better bearings can give a small improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-05-18T11:00:31.570" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T11:00:31.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-16T12:44:28.110" Score="3" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, on a beginner MTB lecture, I learned that the pedal axle should in no part of the stroke be horizontally in front of the knee. Not observing this is unhealthy for the knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrZBjOloChg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (btw great video) they explain a similar thing. For a &quot;correct fit&quot;, the knee should line up with the pedal axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I am riding my little sister's mtb. The seat is high enough, but even being slided maximum to the front, I fail the above test miserably (the seat tube is quite angled). A couple of weeks of short rides, and my knees already hurt constantly (maybe placebo effect?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would having the seat too far back be unhealthy for the knees? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T12:54:50.517" Title="Is it unhealthy to fail this bike fit and why?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21599" CreationDate="2014-05-16T12:54:50.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This principle, &quot;Knee Over Pedal Spindle&quot; or &lt;em&gt;KOPS&lt;/em&gt; is archaic and wrong. It assumes ideal morphology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am about 6ft/185cm tall. For my height, I have comparatively short legs. I have large feet, size EU48/UK13/US14. KOPS gives me inappropriate knee and ankle angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T12:54:50.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21604" CreationDate="2014-05-16T16:14:09.093" Score="0" ViewCount="2494" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the typical lifespan of a set of clincher wheel rims? I know there are a lot of variables, but roughly? To be specific I am looking at a set of Mavic Open Pro rims with 2000 miles on them. I don't have them in person so I cannot judge the wear of the break surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2396" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T21:05:48.623" Title="clincher wheel lifespan" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21590" CreationDate="2014-05-16T17:17:07.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer to your question is, &quot;yes, weight does affect cruising speed on the flat, but not by much.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer answer to your question is a special case of one of the answers given to this bicycles.stackexchange question: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9938/how-can-one-estimate-drag-for-a-bicycle&quot;&gt;How can one estimate drag for a bicycle?&lt;/a&gt;&quot; There you can find the equation for power given speed, disaggregated into the components for aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance, acceleration, and climbing (or descending). In your case, you are only interested in the components of drag that are affected by a change in mass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have asked about &quot;on the flat&quot; so we can ignore the climbing or descending component. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have asked about &quot;cruising speed&quot; so we can ignore the acceleration component. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the drag equation, mass does not enter into the aerodynamic component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only component of drag, then, that is affected by mass is the rolling resistance component. Rolling drag force is Crr * m * g where Crr is the coefficient of rolling resistance, m is the total mass, and g is the gravitational &quot;constant&quot;, probably about 9.8 m/sec^2 in your location. For &quot;normal&quot; road tires on a standard surface, the Crr will typically be in the range of .004 to .007; heavy tires on rough roads will tend toward the upper part of that range, racing tires on a good surface will tend toward the bottom part of that range. In this case, let's say the Crr of your tires on that road is right in the middle of that range at .0055, and that the all-inclusive weight of you and your bicycle and all of your equipment is a total of 110 kg. Then the rolling drag will be .0055 * 110 * 9.8 = 5.9 Newtons. For each kg that you decrease the total all-inclusive mass, the rolling drag will decrease by .0055 * 1 * 9.8 = .0539 Newtons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power is force * speed, so for constant power output the change in speed due to decreased mass will simply be power/change in force. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, suppose your &quot;cruising&quot; power was 300 watts, your total mass was 110 kg, your CdA was 0.3 m^2 (which is low for a commuter bike setup), and the Crr was .005. We can then calculate your speed as around 10.9 m/s (or 39.2 km/h). If you were to decrease your mass by 10kg, roughly 10% of your total mass, your speed would increase by about 1%, to 11.0 m/s, or 39.6 km/h. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T17:40:49.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5744" CreationDate="2014-05-16T19:45:26.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alex Moulton (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moultonbicycles.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.moultonbicycles.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;) has made full-suspension steel frame road bikes continuously since the 1960s.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are not slow low-end folding bikes:  the Moulton marries 120psi tires with full suspension, overcoming the handicap of small wheels to produce a fast but rather heavy bike.  Since 1987, the Moulton AM7, with 17-inch wheels, has held the world speed record for non-recumbent bikes over level ground, at well over 50mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done tours of 400+ miles on both a Moulton and a Trek 520 (traditional steel touring bike).  Much prefer the Moulton, because the reduced shock means less wrist and neck pain after hundreds of miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11295" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T19:45:26.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21601" CreationDate="2014-05-16T21:05:48.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: there is no typical lifespan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to know when your rims have exceeded their lifespan is by inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? The wear on a rim is going to be due to a variety of sources: the miles, abrasion of the braking surfaces, corrosion, crashes, plus more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring carbon, all respectable rims are made of aluminum, which does have a finite life, as aluminum does not have a fatigue limit. However, that fatigue limit could be reached at 1000 or 1 million miles, depending on the cross sectional shape of the rim and how heavy its loaded. Only way to know, is to inspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the brake track and corrosion, riding around exclusively with clear skies in the summertime of California will have a much different impact on the rims and spokes than someone riding year round in Minnesota in the sand. Getting sand and other gunk caught in the brake pads can wear the tracks significantly more than in clean situations. Road salt and other substances can corrode the spokes and cause wheel failure through that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, 2000 miles is not a lot of miles except for perhaps super-niche-crazy-expensive-pro-racer wheels that are only used for a few rides before being discarded. For the rest of us, 2000 is barely a drop in the bucket of what a good wheelset will be capable of delivering provided it is well cared for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T21:05:48.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21606" CreationDate="2014-05-17T03:09:28.700" Score="3" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at getting a trainer because I have next to no time to get on the road and want to start up with Carmichael's Time Crunched Training Program. Part of the program is to ride do high intensity intervals at low RPM. &#xA;I like the idea of a fluid trainer being the quietest due to training at night with a young one in the home. Also that I don't have to modify the resistance as I'm riding, but my concern is whether I can do high intensity training at low RPM on a fluid trainer. I've read that the resistance increases when the fluid thickens. And that the fluid thickens by the speed of the wheel in the chamber, so I assume that spinning at a high gear would allow for this, but I just want to ensure this is possible before ordering one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8566" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T09:38:00.587" Title="Trainers: Fluid or Mag" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21605" CreationDate="2014-05-17T09:38:00.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using bikecalculator.com, I have a 165lb rider on a 15% grade at 12kph (units, oy!) needing roughly 500W. I'm pretty sure that most decent trainers can generate that, including the SuperMagneto Pro that I use. (My power meter and trainer road have told me that I've hit those numbers, however briefly). Like you've indicated, the progressive resistance is generated by speed, so you need to use an appropriate gear combination (big/small) that lets you pedal slow, but spin the wheel at a greater multiple of pedal stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power Curves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RoadMachine: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kurtkinetic.com/powercurve.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kurtkinetic.com/powercurve.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SuperMagneto Pro: &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.trainerroad.com/cycleops-supermagneto-pro-added/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://blog.trainerroad.com/cycleops-supermagneto-pro-added/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4015" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T09:38:00.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-17T13:42:14.963" Score="1" ViewCount="4938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 21-speed hybrid bike (Wal-Mart grade Schwinn) and to try to customize/simplify things (other bike is a fixie road bike), I removed the front deraileur and bought a new single-speed front crank (Origin-8 Track/SS Crank) from my LBS. By local I mean 1hr away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Got home, did the swap, and put the chain back on, and it doesn't fit on the chainring correctly. I measured my chain and the links are the standard 1/2&quot;, but it seems like the teeth in the sprocket are slightly longer than that; eventually as the chain goes around the ring, the rollers come out of the &quot;valley&quot; between teeth and a roller ends up on the tip of a tooth. (Photos below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop is closed for the weekend and it's driving me crazy trying to find an answer. From my understanding, all bike chains have a standard 1/2&quot; link length, it's just the width that varies. Anyone have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CCwxV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fk5kV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11298" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-05-18T04:15:26.650" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T07:20:37.410" Title="Chain not fitting chain ring" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21608" CreationDate="2014-05-17T15:13:14.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All chains are the same link length, but there are different widths. Some single speed components require a 1/8 inch chain, while the chain that come with your bike is probably 3/32. You will have to get a new chain or exchange the chaining for one that fits your chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T15:13:14.063" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21611" CreationDate="2014-05-17T15:33:04.180" Score="3" ViewCount="6469" Body="&lt;p&gt;My road bike comes with 25 tires. They both seem to be slick smooth ones with little resistance.    Recently I had couple of punctures in the rear and I decided to change the rear tire to a 23 which was more puncture resistant and better grip.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a problem in using 23 in the rear and 25 in the front?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11300" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T20:12:50.223" Title="Is it ok to mix 23 and 25 tyres" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21610" CreationDate="2014-05-17T16:14:56.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't a problem with it, though you may find your ride quality to go down a bit by moving to a smaller tire (but 23 and 25's don't really have much cushion to begin with so this won't matter too much). There is also a slight change in gearing due to the change in diameter of the tire. Generally though, I'd expect a bigger tire in the rear than in the front due to where you sit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you can mix tires so long as they go on the rims and clear the frame + brakes. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is everything you want to know about tire sizing, including recommended rim widths for given tire widths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T16:14:56.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21615" CreationDate="2014-05-17T18:43:19.410" Score="4" ViewCount="1735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking through a bike catalogue at one of the high-end road bikes (a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/propel.advanced.1/14795/66227/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;$6000 Giant Propel&lt;/a&gt;) and I couldn't help but notice that this bike is advertised with specific tyres for front and rear wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a new one to me, I've not known any other bike to have this and, as far as I can see, tyre manufacturers don't make front and rear tyres - they're just tyres! So my next question was, &quot;what's the difference?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two tyres are the same size (700x23) and it turns out that the difference is in the tread patterns &lt;em&gt;[edit: I now realise this is incorrect]&lt;/em&gt;. The front tyre is described as &lt;em&gt;sticky 60/64/60 durometer&lt;/em&gt;. The rear described as &lt;em&gt;durable and fast 64/70/64 durometer&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just wondering if anyone knew what these values actually mean? (left/centre/right thickness?) Or is it something proprietary to Giant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be clear, I understand why you might put different tyres on front and back, I understand that the difference between these two might be unnoticeable to all but the best cyclists, its those numbers I'm interested in understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-05-18T12:44:40.433" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T18:03:46.437" Title="Tyre Rubber Classifications" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21612" CreationDate="2014-05-17T19:53:46.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though I don't have specific knowledge on road bike tires, nor specific numeric durometer designations, I have some expertise on MTB tires. The given specification numbers mean that the bike has a slightly harder rubber compound on the rear tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for having different tires front and rear is that the dynamic loads that each tire has to cope with are different, all depending on bike geometry, rider technique and skill level and type / usage of the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear tire copes mainly with traction load, that is pushing the bike forward, also side load from turning but less than the front tire and a little fraction of the braking forces. Also during acceleration and rolling on flat, it bears a bigger fraction of the rider + bike weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front tire on the other hand bears with almost all the braking force, specially on road bikes. It also copes with most of the force needed to steer the bike, which means greater side loads than the rear tire. Also, in strong braking the front tire bears with a bigger fraction of the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a forward moving wheeled vehicle brakes, a weight transfer occurs from the static center of mass towards the front of the vehicle. This is easily observed on cars, motorcycles and full suspension bicycles. That's why front tire works harder during braking, because the rear wheel has lesser downward force applied to it, so it is very limited on the friction it can create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the particular case shown on the question, the bike has a slightly harder rubber compound on the rear tire. This means that it will last a little longer and will create a little less rolling resistance (Compared to a tire with the same structure but using the softer compound and keeping all other variables equal). Conversely, the front tire, being softer will have more grip and will do a better job braking and steering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion that makes sense because on a road bike, you spend more effort pedaling on flat or climbing, and during such events, the rear wheel has a grater fraction of the weight applied to, that is, the bike has less rolling resistance than if it had both tires made of the softer compound, but a little more grip than with both tires made of the harder compound. It's like trying to get the best of both worlds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In MTB where my experience comes from, different threads is common practice. It is usual to pick tires independently, even different brands. Some manufacturers even have front and rear specific tires with the same model name. Others design a rolling direction for front use and the other for rear use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my particular case I have bikes with different tires front and rear but also bikes with the same tire model. While comparing wear on different tires is very difficult, on the bikes I have with the same tire front and rear, there are different wear patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On and old road bike that I have with cheap identical tires front and rear, I use a little more pressure on the rear tire, for the reasons explained 3 paragraphs before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T19:53:46.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-18T06:21:37.687" Score="4" ViewCount="8890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what effect changing the material of a set of disc brake pads would have on the rotors if you kept them the same. for example, If I have resin pads and have been using them for the life of the rotors, what would happen if I switched to metal or organic pads, while still keeping the rotors the same? Would they just squeal like crazy?&#xA;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T21:31:34.750" Title="changing disc brake pad material while keeping same rotors" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;pads&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21612" CreationDate="2014-05-18T09:59:05.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technical term is, I believe, &quot;woo&quot;. Or marketing, if you're an economist. By using nigh-on-infinitesimal differences between their product and everyone else's they can add profit. At least in this case the difference appears to be real, although they don't tell us the uncertainty in the output so for all we know the rubber is 60 +/- 10, making 64/60 effectively identical. It's likely to be much more closely controlled than that, but &lt;em&gt;we don't know&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/technology/view//92/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Their website says:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;HIGH-PERFORMANCE TREAD COMPOUNDS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  High-performance front (60/64/60) and rear (64/70/64) specific tread compounds using sticky rubber for the front, and fast, durable rubber for the rear. And dual-compound center-to-side rubber ensures maximum speed plus cornering traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They use a harder compound on the rear to give lower rolling resistance at the expense of traction. Which, while technically true, is unlikely to be detectable by the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kendatire.com/en/bicycle/rubber-compounds/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kenda&lt;/a&gt; use 68/60 dual compound in their road tyres:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;R2C COMPOUND.Kenda's finest road-specific competition compound that blends the best attributes of traction, speed and durability. A grippy (60 shore A durometer) compound is featured on the tire's shoulder for cornering assurance during extreme lean angles and is paired with a fast-rolling (68 shore A durometer) center compound rubber for straight-line speed. Both high-performance durometers are blended on the same casing for the ultimate in performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They both use a centreline strip of harder rubber to give better wear in a straight line. Note that if the difference is detectable, that will most likely be under hard front braking where the harder rubber will lose traction earlier. If you do test this, please post video.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maxxis go so far as to actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maxxis.com/sponsorship/bicycle/bicycle-faqs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;define their terms&lt;/a&gt; but none of them seem to have published anything about the relative performance of different tyres, let alone of tiny variations in rubber hardness. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/beginners/maintenance/know-your-rubber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycling magazine&lt;/a&gt; has a shorter definition using smaller words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T09:59:05.840" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21612" CreationDate="2014-05-18T10:40:00.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on @Mσᶎ's answer, the Bicycling Magazine article that he cites contains the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Durometer&lt;/strong&gt; A tread compound's give is typically measured in Shore A (sA) Hardness (a scale used within the tire/rubber industry), in a range of 0 to 90. For bicycle tires, 70sA is usually considered a harder, more-durable compound and 40sA is a supersoft DH compound. Most (but not all) manufacturers will label durometer on the tire sidewall and packaging—and call out available options on their websites. Several manufacturers use a mix of different tread rubbers on a single tire—harder compounds for the center knobs for fast rolling, softer on the sides for cornering grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this at least explains what each of those numbers means. Googling the Shore A scale was also quite informative, yielding a number of results from rubber-related businesses. This scale is clearly quite common in the world of rubber although as I say in the question I'd never heard of it regarding cycling before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giant told me that the x/y/z referred to shoulder/centre/shoulder hardness - so you get more grip as you move away from the centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T18:03:46.437" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T18:03:46.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-18T22:05:04.247" Score="4" ViewCount="1013" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm baffled. I installed a new chain, cassette, cables and housing yesterday. On the stand, all is happy and shifting is silky smooth. On the road all seems happy except on the bigger cogs in back (in either ring) where it feels like the chain might skip somewhere under load. More frustratingly, the chain will periodically drop to the inside. On the big ring, it'll drop to the small ring. If I'm in the small ring and biggest cog, the chain will drop without fail within a few pedal revs. When this happens, the chain isn't rubbing on the derailleur though there is definitely the sensation of something slipping. The limit screw is adjusted as far in as possible without the chain rubbing on the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to find a cause. I'm using the same wheels and didn't touch the crankset - the chainline didn't change. The chainrings are in good shape, but to eliminate that as a cause, I swapped in an unused pair to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11308" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T22:00:47.207" Title="Chain drops in smallest gear under load" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21627" CreationDate="2014-05-19T01:42:41.287" Score="2" ViewCount="703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my usual morning bike ride yesterday. Going home after about 1.5 hours, I noticed that my rim stickers (top part) were half gone because they get caught when I apply my brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Question 1: Is this a normal occurrence, or are my brake pads positioned too low;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Question 2: Is it fine to replace the stickers, or have a rim skin installed?; or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Question 3: Is it better to leave the rims naked?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of my bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V6b1U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice that the top part of the rim sticker has skid marks on it due to the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/syGGl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11234" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2014-05-21T01:17:28.657" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T01:17:28.657" Title="Rim Stickers/Decals" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21620" CreationDate="2014-05-19T04:27:13.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say the pad is too low for the following reasons - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) Stickers coming off is a bad sign  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b) Retaining Bolt is at lowest possible position on the caliper  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;c) what looks like &gt;5mm gap from top of rim to top of pad and tire. Normally you would not see  a gap when viewed from this angle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: When adjusting the main thing is to ensure the pad does not run the tire, and is about 2 mm below the top of the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T04:27:13.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21641" CreationDate="2014-05-19T05:52:34.053" Score="3" ViewCount="2179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not need the bicycle for daily commuting or mountain climbing.&#xA;I need the bicycle for morning and evening exercise and just for roaming around in order to get some fresh air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also want a &lt;strong&gt;smooth&lt;/strong&gt; ride on non-smooth roads. I am a female.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What to look for in a bicycle meant for the above described needs?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Budget: 103$&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Country: India&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched for and found the following bicycles with suspensions.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They fall near about $ 103.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hercules/hybrid-/hercules-atom/Technical-Specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hercules/hybrid-/hercules-atom/Technical-Specifications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hercules/hybrid-/hercules-rebellio-619/Technical-Specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hercules/hybrid-/hercules-rebellio-619/Technical-Specifications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hero/mtb/hero-ranger-dtb-vx-2013/Technical-Specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hero/mtb/hero-ranger-dtb-vx-2013/Technical-Specifications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know whether they are comfortable for exercise and roaming around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Regarding exercise:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am an underweight female so loosing weight is not my goal.&#xA;I wish to get mentally fit and therefore I wish to tire myself out without getting bored. They say physical exercise is necessary to get rid of depression.&#xA;Hence I chose to cycle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/21622/what-to-look-for-in-a-bicycle-meant-for-the-exercise#comment39603_21622&quot;&gt;What to look for in a bicycle meant for the exercise?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The most important thing is that it be the right size for you, and after that you appear to want a &quot;relaxed&quot;, upright posture rather than a &quot;racing&quot; posture. For that an inexpensively-built &quot;city bike&quot; (such as Andy's illustration) or perhaps a &quot;hybrid&quot; is probably the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the bikes shown above hybrid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4068" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T04:02:12.997" Title="What to look for in a bicycle meant for the exercise?" Tags="&lt;exercise&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21622" CreationDate="2014-05-19T06:34:54.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very hard to answer without knowing your budget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a hybrid style bike. They have an upright riding position and geometry designed for comfort over speed (road racer) or agility (MTB). They have largish tires to absorb the minor bumps. Look at a bike with 29&quot; (700C) wheels and at least 1.5&quot; (35mm) tires for the smoother ride you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are looking for a &quot;smooth ride over non-smooth roads&quot; - presumably for comfort - one of the holy grail of cycles. The closest you will get is a high end Cross country Mountain bike with full suspension. However, I would not recommend it (depending on how bumpy you are talking about), as the cost/weight penalty is high, and even the best can only increase comfort so much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about seat comfort, several things can be done. Suspension seat posts an help, but a woman's specific saddle would be my first recommendation. Large, plush saddles can get uncomfortable over longer distances and cause chaffing, so are not always the answer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest visiting you Local bike shop (LBS) and talking to them.  Stay away from Chains stores if you can afford to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re Your Update:&#xA;All those bikes look like they will be more trouble than they are worth. The complexity of full suspension combined with a bike in that price bracket is a recipe for a very unpleasant experience. The bike will be heavy and hard to ride, especially with no gears. I would suggest something more like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hercules/hybrid-/hercules-arrow-6spd/Technical-Specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hercules Arrow 6spd&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-05-20T06:21:41.183" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T06:21:41.183" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21610" CreationDate="2014-05-19T07:55:03.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That &lt;em&gt;tends&lt;/em&gt; to be the opposite to what riders usually run. If you are going to have different widths- its more normal to put the wider on the back tyre- rather than on the front. I run 23mm on the front and 25mm on the back. You put a lot more stress/effort/weight over the rear tyre than the front &amp;amp; hence why it tends to be this way around. There is nothing &quot;wrong&quot; with having it the other way around however :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T07:55:03.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21622" CreationDate="2014-05-19T10:33:27.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your question you say nothing about your fitness level, or expected riding speeds / distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are reasonably fit, and want to ride, say 10km in half an hour (20kph), then I would certainly agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/21623/8273&quot;&gt;mattnz's answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when you say &lt;em&gt;just for roaming around&lt;/em&gt;, I hear requirements more like those of my wife:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uytPK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many places, this is called a Dutch Bike, or City Bike. Some people just call them ladies shopping bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the (ladies) seat there are springs to cushion your ride. In the picture the seat is unusually low; normally it would be at least 10cm higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main concern I have with your requirements is your budget. While I know nothing of prices in India, I suspect that you will need to aim for a second hand bike. As others have said, do go your LBS to see what your possibilities are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T10:33:27.363" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21620" CreationDate="2014-05-19T10:42:06.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your second and third questions: You don't need any stickers on your rims. So you can replace them if you want. Or peel them off completely. Or add some other sort of stickers, eg those RimSkins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its just a matter of style - plain black rims can look nice, so can multi-coloured stickers. Or reflective stickers would help you get noticed at night, especially for side visibility. So long as they are kept clean, and not peeling off or looking messy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just so long as you don't put any stickers on the braking surface. ie the flat bit of the rim, next to the tyre, where the brake pads should contact. If you put stickers on there, your brakes won't work very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T10:58:04.933" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T10:58:04.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21492" CreationDate="2014-05-19T10:58:43.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very doable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm midway though building my fourth and fifth wheels for my own bikes from scratch with no more than an upside down bike, the internet and a spoke key (or screwdriver to begin with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of different lacing patterns to choose from depending on your own preference and possibly the length of spoke available to you.  There are also a number of websites which will tell you what length the spokes will need to be, though in this case you can just measure the existing ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely don't by cheap spokes (unless they are good quality spokes for a great price).  My third wheel lasted less than one day because two spokes snapped within 20 miles.&#xA;It could be that this was down to a poor build but my first two wheels are still good after 500 miles with no adjustment required (using ACI plain guage spokes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you start getting towards tension (you can pretty much feel how tight they should be from a built wheel) focus primarily on any vertical movement before lateral as this is much more difficult to correct when at full tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the wheel under tension before assuming its completed.  When I think I'm true I squeeze the spokes together with my hands, and check true again. Then I attach the wheel to a bike and walk it around whilst applying some pressure to either the seat or handlebars depending on the wheel and check true again. THEN I go for a ride around a car park and, you guessed it! Check true again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not a hugely difficult task to complete, but a very difficult one to perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11292" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T10:58:43.717" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-19T12:41:02.923" Score="0" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a planet bike speedometer and after the winter season it seems that it is no longer functioning. It will come on when the bike starts to move but I cannot reset it and it seems to be frozen on the stats of my last ride where it was working. Does anyone know if this is a battery issue or just a malfunction of the device. If I have to get a new one how expensive and time consuming would it be to replace? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11047" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T05:57:14.690" Title="Planet Bike speedometer won't reset" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21632" CreationDate="2014-05-19T15:41:32.460" Score="0" ViewCount="4396" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano's HyperGlide-C (11-speed), are the hubs backwards compatible?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can I put an 8/9/10-speed cassette on a Hyperglide-C hub?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can I put a Hyperglide-C cassette on a Hyperglide hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7629" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T13:39:40.297" Title="What Changed with Shimano Hyperglide-C?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21631" CreationDate="2014-05-19T16:03:28.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#hyperdrivec&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; to the rescue: &quot;Shimano uses the trademark &quot;Hyperglide-C&quot; to designate a system with an 11 tooth sprocket. The &quot;C&quot; stands for &quot;compact&quot;. These systems are used with smaller-than-usual chainwheel sizes, or on bicycles that have a small drive wheel, or to achieve higher gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to clearance problems, the cutaway between the splines on 11-tooth sprockets only goes halfway through the sprocket. The matching splines on Hyperglide-C bodies don't go all the way to the outer end of the body.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize: Hyperglide-C cassette on non-hyperglide C body gives wobbles (which you can correct with a 1 mm spacer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingforums.com/t/383325/hyperglide-cassette-on-hyperglide-c-freehub-body&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reverse case&lt;/a&gt;, you can remove some spacers from your cassette (if you have them) to get it to fit (though I'm not really sure when this case would practically occur).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T17:51:35.450" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T17:51:35.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2459" CreationDate="2014-05-19T18:17:56.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Converting to a straight-up mountain bike would be hard. Converting a road bike to a 650B bike capable of handling dirt trails and gravel is a pretty established practice, mostly entailing swapping the wheelset and brakes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2010/cc769-joehuddleston0410.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2010/cc769-joehuddleston0410.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It's more usually done on older frames, but nothing necessarily precludes doing it on a newish racy frame. However, a narrow chainstay/seatstay/fork gap may make fitting fat tires difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you'd be able to pick up a decent used mountain bike for the price of a decent 650b wheelset, especially if you'd be fine with a rigid bike. $125 or so can get you Tange Prestige with early 90s Deore LX and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a project for your R300 frame rather than selling it cheap, there's always a singlespeed conversion (the Wabi wheelset is great for the price).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T18:17:56.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1068" CreationDate="2014-05-19T21:44:22.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Water (and its cousin mud) more than anything affect grease bearings. The more rain, and or mud that you ride in the more often you will need to repack your grease bearings. When they are freshly packed pay attention to how easily the wheels spin when you hold them off the road or the bike is upside down. Then do this every so often and if they seem to be getting even the least bit slower then it is time to pack. You will get a feel for their condition over time. I do mine every 1000 to 2000 miles and I ride mine through everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11317" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T21:44:22.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4979" CreationDate="2014-05-19T22:07:50.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just paid £232 to replace various on my bike: headset, cassette, cables, etc. etc... I couldn't work it out, I regularly clean my bike and here I was, being told to do exactly that. I discussed this with one of the chaps in the shop. He asked how I washed my bike. I went into detail, then he asked &quot;Do you pressure wash?&quot; &quot;Yes, vigorously!&quot; Was my answer answer, &quot;Don't!&quot; I have learned an expensive lesson, and I know that the parts I had replace (apart from changing bar tape) was due to the washing. You live and you learn. I think I need another lifetime!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11318" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T22:07:50.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8626" CreationDate="2014-05-19T22:14:21.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise your saddle height(but not beyond the optimum for you leg length. There's an optimum height to deliver your best power for longer) and if adjustable lower your bars. The following will probably be condemned and is at your own risk but you can rest your elbows on the extreme of the handles slightly rearward and place your hands at the centre of the steering column. This gets you in, as near as damn it, as good an aero position as a racing bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inflate your tyres to maximum design pressure. This has the effect of turning fat tyres into thinner tyres more approaching  a racing bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Won't get you to a road bike speed but will bridge the gap somewhat at no cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11319" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T22:44:55.313" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T22:44:55.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-20T05:52:55.587" Score="1" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one of the ubiquitous Wal-Mart-sourced Chinese Kent bikes, badged as a &quot;GMC Denali.&quot;  It came with the Shimano RS41 3x7 twist shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front shifter got to where it would not physically move all the way into &quot;1,&quot; such that if I set up the front derailleur I could catch 1 and 2 but not 3 (I presume the shifter broke inside and a loose piece was jamming it - it wouldn't move all the way to 1 even if the cable were disconnected at the other end). Earlier tonight I replaced both shifters and cables with a brand new RS45 set (I was told by the vendor that this would be a straight replacement) and whereas I was able to set up the rear perfectly, in the front I still couldn't quite catch 3.  It appears as though the front derailleur simply will not mechanically move far enough outward to move the chain to the largest sprocket, even with the high limit screw adjusted all the way out.  I can play with the barrel adjuster at the shifter all I want to get it to where the shifter can be forced into clicking into 3 with the cable as tight as a guitar string, but the derailleur simply isn't going to go any further (and yes, it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; high enough that it is clearing all the front sprockets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might this derailleur have worn out its pivot(s) such that its range of movement is reduced, or do I need to adjust the &lt;em&gt;low&lt;/em&gt; limit screw until it almost won't go into 1 anymore and try again?  I'm perfectly willing to replace the clamp-on derailleur if it's just gone south, but I sure don't want to if I'm just missing an adjustment nuance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11324" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T12:56:37.523" Title="Replaced faulty Shimano twist shifter but front derailleur still won't catch 3rd" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21622" CreationDate="2014-05-20T12:53:49.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am an underweight female so loosing weight is NOT my goal. I wish to get mentally fit and therefore I wish to tire myself out without getting bored. They say physical exercise is necessary to get rid of depression. Hence I chose to cycle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and most important is the depression. You should really go to a bike shop and hop on a few different bikes and styles. Try them all. The one that makes you feel giddy and excited is the one to get. Pleasure, smiling, laughter, and exercise all release endorphins which help depression. Get the one that will not only give you exercise but also make you feel great! &lt;strong&gt;This is also how you will know if it is comfortable and fits you.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;wish to get mentally fit and therefore I wish to tire myself out without getting bored&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is best done by picking difficult challenges that you enjoy. It could be getting a BMX bike and working to learn one trick after another. It could be setting a speed goal for yourself that really forces you to push yourself. It could be any number of things. Just set challenging goals and surround yourself with others that will push you to reach them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am an underweight female so loosing weight is NOT my goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eat more. Seriously. Any exercise will cause a little weight loss and if you're really looking to challenge yourself mentally then that means more than a leisure ride. That means more calories. You'll have to learn what the right amount to eat is to not lose weight and then you can decide if you want to eat more to put on weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My feeling&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike you chose looks odd to me but if it makes you happy it also looks versatile and fun. I could see taking to some trails and little jumps on it. Otherwise the more I write the more I'm inclined to suggest a smaller BMX bike like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Foi8o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can generally find them pretty cheap (not this model but other ones). They're incredibly durable. Relaxing for when you do want those roaming around trips, but can also be pushed for the fitness side. And learning a new trick or jump will burn less calories so you don't lose weight. Loads of fun too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8397" LastEditorUserId="8397" LastEditDate="2014-05-20T13:37:39.973" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T13:37:39.973" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21639" CreationDate="2014-05-20T12:56:37.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That bike, and many similar lower-end bikes, comes with a clamp on derailleur, so the steps to troubleshoot your problem are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pivots do get dirty; give it a thorough cleaning with degreaser and then drop a few drops of chain lube on the pivots. While you are doing this, dial all the barrel adjusters back to their beginning positions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the derailleur cage and make sure it is not bent.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the derailleur is mounted to the frame properly. The cage should be exactly parallel to the chain rings, and it should be placed low enough on the frame that the teeth of the largest cog barely clear the bottom of the cage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the cable and chain loose, ensure that the derailleur cage moves freely by hand. You can take this chance to begin to adjust the limit screws. Start with the &lt;strong&gt;low&lt;/strong&gt; side, making sure it easily comes to rest to properly shift to the small ring when there is no tension on the cable. &lt;strong&gt;At this point it should be clear whether or not the derailleur is functioning properly&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the cable housings detached from the guides Attempt to move the derailleur by gently pulling the cable by hand near the shifters. If this works &lt;strong&gt;the problem is likely in your shifters, or with friction in the cable housings&lt;/strong&gt;. If you can shift it by hand, this is a good time to start to dial in the &lt;strong&gt;high&lt;/strong&gt; limit adjustment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you make it this far, adjust the cable tension and dial in the shifting with the barrel adjusters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with that particular bike is that the derailleur is frequently mounted high, is easily bent, and notoriously difficult to keep in adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T12:56:37.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21650" CreationDate="2014-05-20T15:15:17.947" Score="0" ViewCount="2863" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few questions floating around regarding sticky STI shifters and the standard procedure seems to be to flush with a load of WD-40 and relube with aerosol grease or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My set is Ultegra 6500 series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having tried this with with unsatisfactory results I think I need to take more drastic action. It is clear there is still significant grime and gummed-up grease in the mechanism (excerbated no doubt by long-term lack of name plate). I figured the best method would be to remove the shifter from the bike and give it a good submersion in degreaser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea was to leave the body on the bars and just remove the lever, which incorporates the mechanism by removing the pivot pin and brake/gear cables. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Ultegra/SI_6C80D_001/SI_6C80D_001_En_v1_m56577569830621374.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tech docs&lt;/a&gt; show this process but I'm slightly scared of tiny pieces flying everywhere and being unable to reassemble. It also requires a &quot;return spring installation tool&quot; which I do not possess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had experience with this? How tricky is it for a reasonably technically inclined person? Would I be better off just removing the bar tape and taking off the whole unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T08:14:13.000" Title="Partially disassembling Sticky Shimano STI shifter for service" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-20T15:21:37.590" Score="3" ViewCount="1947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to try commuting to work via bike and am really excited about it. The problem is, I haven't really ridden a bike in the past 15 years, when I was in high school. I used to love biking but it just was never really possible to bike to work until now. What are some big ways in which cycling has changed in the past 15 years or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11331" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T00:41:42.760" Title="How has biking changed in the past 15 years?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-05-21T17:10:57.233" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21644" CreationDate="2014-05-20T20:17:21.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few differences off the top of my (mtb) head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hydroforming of aluminium tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wider use of carbon for frames and wheels, not just top end bikes and on aggressive mountain bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technology:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disc brakes, both hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes are standard&#xA;on mountain and hybrid bikes but slowly gaining momentum on touring,&#xA;road and cyclocross bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electronic shifting on road bikes, Shimano D12 and other brands use servos to power shifting for more responsive and lighter changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clutch derailleurs on mountain bikes to eliminate chain slap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dual chamber air sprung suspension, dual chambers provide negative pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remote everything, cockpits are now designed so that all manner of adjustments can be made to a bike on the fly such as seat height and suspension firmness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dropper posts on mountain bikes, while gravity posts have been around for years hydraulic posts are now common for dropping and raising saddles on the fly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thru axles are slowing taking over QRs as standard on mountain bikes and have less flex than QRs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubeless wheels, no longer do many wheels and tyre sets require tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various different full suspension designs, but there's no best design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tapered head tube on mountain bikes to provide more stiffness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Narrow-wide chain rings to support 1x drive trains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press fit headsets and bottom brackets, while headsets are a bit older and been available 15 years ago there are now numerous standards of press fit bottom brackets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Through axle crankshafts (what's the right wording here?) BBs no longer have an integrated spindle and that is part of the crankset, again for stiffness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Geometry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;29&quot; mountain bikes to roll over things better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;27.5&quot; (650B) mountain bikes to roll over things a little less better but to turn better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slacker head tubes on mountain bikes for more stability downhill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike Types:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclocross European mud racing on road bikes has become popular across the world and now most brands carry a cyclocross off road bike in their range, good on both road and gravel and hardy commuters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enduro European gravity racing paired with climbing (either aggressive XC or mostly downhill racing however you want to look at it) has become a term to describe previous all-mountain bikes. Usually fluro colours with about 160mm of travel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fat bikes large tired (wide) mountain bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Performing Enhancing Drugs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apparently people no longer take them, it's no longer the in thing to do&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Olympics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BMX became an Olympic sport&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safety&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All mountain/endure helmets providing back of head protection&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-05-21T00:41:42.760" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T00:41:42.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21644" CreationDate="2014-05-20T20:47:44.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that I think has changed significantly is the quality of department store bikes. It used to be that you could go down to your local department store to get a quality bike.  I'm not sure exactly when the transition happened, whether it was 10, 15, or 20 years ago, but at some point, almost all the bikes at large retailers became extremely low quality.  Canadian Tire used to be a place to get a pretty decent bike. I use a 20 year old Canadian Tire (SuperCycle) as my rain bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You pretty much have to go to a bike shop, or at least a dedicated sports store to get a decent quality bike that you can depend on.  And when you are commuting, you want something you can depend on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T20:47:44.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21644" CreationDate="2014-05-20T23:33:38.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others have mentioned changes in the available equipment and the increase in bike lanes and paths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two major changes I've seen in my area are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A huge increase in traffic volume. I would expect this to be the case in your location also. So there are a whole bunch of commuting skills to learn - see&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1073/what-do-you-wish-someone-had-told-you-before-your-first-commute&quot;&gt;What do you wish someone had told you before your first commute?&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/722/safety-guidelines-for-cycling-in-traffic&quot;&gt;Safety guidelines for cycling in traffic&lt;/a&gt;, and&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2096/what-advanced-cycling-skills-are-useful-for-a-commuter-or-city-rider&quot;&gt;What advanced cycling skills are useful for a commuter or city rider?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the last ten years, drivers in the suburbs have become much more bicycle aware. I mention it because it's a change, but it only slightly dilutes the effect of the increased traffic. I've seen no change in outer suburban fringe areas. Inner city gridlock is still the same. Do these observations translate to LA? Only someone who rides there can tell you. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=Los+Angeles&quot;&gt;a few questions that mention Los Angeles&lt;/a&gt; that may also help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T23:33:38.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21643" CreationDate="2014-05-21T08:14:13.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, after studying the tech doc I took the plunge. It is actually not difficult and the only tools you need are some hex keys. I managed to successfully remove the lever assembly from the shifter for cleaning. Just don't try to disassemble any further than the doc instructs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad news was that even after a thorough soaking in degreaser (which turned black from the grime) and relube, shifting performance has hardly improved, suggesting some mechanical issue. I think some new shifters are in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reassembly for almost as easy, the only slightly tricky bit was getting the return spring in the right place without the official tool. A bit of poking with a pointy implement solved it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion:&lt;/strong&gt; definitely a viable and effective way to clean shifters - if grease and grime buildup is the cause of stickiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T08:14:13.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21652" CreationDate="2014-05-21T10:27:22.310" Score="1" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;After using my bike for a year I feel that although I enjoy the simplicity of a single chainring setup, I would prefer a more versatile 2x10 setup and would like to move to it. Currently the two cranksets I am looking at buying are the SRAM Apex White 50-34t &amp;amp; the Shimano 105 5700 52-39t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else apart from one of these, a new set of shifters and front derailleur would I need to buy as well, should I also replace the rear cassette &amp;amp; derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11344" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T10:40:00.480" Title="Going from a 1x8 to 2x10 setup" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21651" CreationDate="2014-05-21T10:40:00.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To go from a 1x8 to 2x10 drive train you will need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacement shifters for 2x10 drive trains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front derailleur for double 10 speed crankset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double 10 speed crankset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 speed chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 speed cassette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 speed rear derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cable outers for front derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T10:40:00.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18104" CreationDate="2014-05-21T15:09:57.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem and I solved it by replacing the rear derailleur. You could see it wobble sideways if you moved it by hand.&#xA;As you already replaced the chain and casette, there seems to be no other option (shifters don't break that often, and they work when changing speeds up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11347" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T15:09:57.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-21T18:20:44.653" Score="0" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a rear sprocket for a 1997 Joshua X1.  Are they available anywhere?  I live in North Carolina.  If not does anyone buy the MTB for parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11350" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T18:54:12.060" Title="Joshua X1 Rear Sprocket" Tags="&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21654" CreationDate="2014-05-21T18:48:00.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like it has a freehub and 7 speed shifters by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/searchlistingdetail.aspx?id=68362&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;default&lt;/a&gt;. So you just need a 7 speed Shimano cassette (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;note the difference between a cassette and freewheel&lt;/a&gt;), which you can find at your local bike shop pretty easily or online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The default is a Shimano-compatible (made by Shimano, SRAM, IRD, etc.) 7 speed 11-30t cassette. Your LBS probably has some laying around - according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k7-7.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt;, that exact cassette is no longer made, but there are several other close ones like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/sram-pg730-7-speed-mtb-cassette/rp-prod6387&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-and-freewheel-removal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tools for replacing a cassette&lt;/a&gt;, so it might be cheaper (and it is like a 5 minute job) for your LBS to do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-05-21T18:54:12.060" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T18:54:12.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="289" CreationDate="2014-05-21T20:43:08.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found this helpful idea in another forum, it helped me so I'm passing it along.  Get some sandpaper, glue two strips back to back so both sides are rough.  Wrap around the rails and tighten down.  Seems to work for me !   Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11352" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T20:43:08.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21661" CreationDate="2014-05-21T20:45:23.673" Score="1" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;See attached photo, I can see the threads on the drive side of my axel. Is this something that I should be worried about? &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ykyv7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Visible threads on the rear axle of a fixed hub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Other side for reference&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xuiW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Non-drive side of alex where thread is showing on drive side&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7634" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T11:55:57.447" Title="Threads visible on axle of rear fixed wheel" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21068" CreationDate="2014-05-21T21:46:57.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is really nothing you can do. Anti-pollution masks are mostly placebo, and beside making breathing harder, they have close to zero efficiency in terms of air filtering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Military gas mask would do the job, but for obvious reasons it is not appropriate for biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11348" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T21:46:57.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21657" CreationDate="2014-05-21T22:29:03.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am far from an expert in Single speeds. However, It's not right and I would fix it purely for that reason, let alone potential problems. To me at best its a '&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broken_windows_theory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;broken window&lt;/a&gt;'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the outer nut comes loose the wheel comes loose, axle will shift and gernally bad things will start to happen. If the inner nut comes loose the bearings will come loose and the wheel will wobble. How likely these events are I have no idea. I see nothing preventing the inner nut loosening - thats why the outer is there - as a lock nut. The outer should be OK as its locked against the frame and nut on the opposite side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T22:29:03.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21657" CreationDate="2014-05-21T22:37:07.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two nuts inside the fork should be tightened against each other, as they are in the second photo. The outer nut is normally referred to as a lock-nut, because it's used to lock the other nut in place by being tightened against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is critically important with open bearing systems, as precise adjustment of the cones on open bearings is what makes them work (and stops the balls escaping). With sealed bearings like yours it's less important, as the inner nut on each side effectively lock against each other via the two bearings and the spacer. Viz, there is continuous metal around the axle inside your wheel, so you can do those nuts up nice and tight. Caveat: there &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be continuous metal. Obviously the manufacturer can save a few grams by leaving out that spacer, and in that case tightening the nuts properly will destroy the bearings. To find out, check that the axle still rotates freely when the nuts are done up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The problem&lt;/strong&gt; in your case is that you have a deep, strong axle nut on the outside of the fork that is done up nice and tight to stop the axle sliding in the dropouts of your single-speed. Unfortunately that big hefty nut is tightening against the skinny little locknut on the other side of the fork, rather than against the locknut plus nut etc assembly. You're likely to damage the locknut and may strip it, which would mean the drive side of your axle would be able to slide, dropping your chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can avoid that if you never do up the outer axle nut very tight, but in my experience that inevitably leads to the axle slipping in the dropout, the rider doing the nut up tighter, and the locknut stripping or deforming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-05-21T23:04:09.473" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T23:04:09.473" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21442" CreationDate="2014-05-21T23:28:46.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think 100kg should bend a decent axle. I have 7.000 km since I replaced my axle with a Point $5 one and it's still ok, on a freewheel 7-speed hub like yours. Definitely they should replace it on warranty. If not, you can replace only the axle with a better one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11349" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T23:28:46.177" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21664" CreationDate="2014-05-22T00:41:20.557" Score="1" ViewCount="7534" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are there no Tourney or Altus parts on Shimano site, only Acera?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/acera_9-speed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/acera_9-speed.html&lt;/a&gt;?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did they stop producing anything less than 9 speed? Or am I searching in the wrong place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-05-22T05:48:48.377" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T20:36:42.317" Title="No Tourney or Altus parts on Shimano website?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21663" CreationDate="2014-05-22T01:13:46.717" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They still exist - they just aren't high enough in quality/product line to appear on the front page for Shimano (i.e. they aren't useful marketing points for Shimano, but you can still order parts in those groups from most cycling retailers - almost everyone who buys Tourney/Altus is an OEM or a bike shop who needs something very cheap for repairing BSO's; In fact, Tourney does appear on the better BSO's now, and Altus on the bottom rung of non-BSO's which is usually upgraded to Acera/Alivio when needed anyway). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the link for &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051870&amp;amp;ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&amp;amp;bmUID=kosfvIl&quot;&gt;Tourney&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051836&amp;amp;ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&amp;amp;bmUID=kosfvXE&quot;&gt;Altus&lt;/a&gt;. If those links don't work, go to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; and select them under the mountain bike drop down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for what its worth, heres something regarding personal experience: My commuter was a 7 speed bike with Acera trigger shifters. They happened to be damaged, and the only new part on the market for 7 speed was Tourney. The only way I could describe Tourney was &quot;starts with s, ends with t, and the word isn't soot&quot; - wouldn't stay in adjustment, horrible brake feel, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ended up throwing out the Tourney stuff shortly after, and upgrading to 8 speed and Alivio shifters and brake levers. Its not hard to find the 8 speed Alivio shifters anymore (despite them not being current), and I needed a new freewheel soon anyway (yes, my commuter runs a freewheel, not a cassette), so I took the plunge.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-05-22T01:35:29.907" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T01:35:29.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21702" CreationDate="2014-05-22T02:15:57.957" Score="9" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a bike commuter without a car in California, that seems to be such an unusual  combination that it is difficult to find insurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have health + disability insurance, my bike is worth less than $1000. I don't own property and don't have a homeowner's or renter's insurance, nothing worth to steal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get liability protection for the case that I cause an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of insurance do I need? Am I overlooking something else I need to insure against?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I talked to a couple of insurance companies (Allstate, Farmers, Geico) and asked for umbrella insurance, all of them were initially very dismissive of the idea to insure someone  without a car. All three told me on the phone there was no way to get a non owners auto insurance, they absolutely needed the type of my non-existing car and the VIN.&#xA;They also told me that you cannot get umbrella insurance if you don't have auto insurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this, but that was the reply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then looked into renter's insurance, and that does indeed cover liability for bike accidents, they confirmed this on the phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an insurance broker, who offered me renters + umbrella for $655 per year.&#xA;State Farm has a very high liability renters insurance for about $250 per year, both 1 million coverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still doubtful if 1 million liability coverage is enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Germany you are required by law to have at least 7.5 mio Euro coverage for personal damage and 1 mio for property damage if you have a car, but that is the absolute minimum.&#xA;Most insurance policies have a limit of 100 mio Euro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle the required product seems to be a renters insurance, or a non-owners car insurance for people who occasionally drive. The problem is that the insurance companies don't have much experience with the car-less cyclist and can't help much choosing the right product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11358" LastEditorUserId="11358" LastEditDate="2014-05-23T01:08:01.847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T15:05:44.663" Title="Insurance for carless cyclist in California" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;us&gt;&lt;california&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="16" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36353" CreationDate="2014-05-22T12:30:32.313" Score="4" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new flatbed trailer that uses a square tube tow bar instead of a round like my kid trailer has.  Since I'm setup on the Burley system, I need to use a flex connector for the new trailer.  I bought one of each with the trailer so I was prepared when it showed up.  While looking at them either one will fit but the square tube connector has ridges which are just as round as the rest of the connector.  Other than increasing the diameter of the connector, does the ridges really matter, or can I use either one on this trailer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I get no support from Burley since both trailers are not Burley and the packaging for the connectors clearly state not to use them on other trailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My kid trailer is a Pacific Voyager II and the new one I bought is a Aosom/Mwave/somebody &quot;wonderer&quot; flatbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flex connector for round towbar:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lryc6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flex connect for round towbar from Burley site&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flex connector for square towbar:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HervK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flex connect for square towbar from Burley site&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the side-by-side photo of the connectors I received:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HTqd5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flex connector compare&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2014-05-23T12:09:46.120" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T13:07:34.277" Title="Burley Flex Connector, square tube vs round tube, does it really matter?" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-22T12:46:40.737" Score="4" ViewCount="2646" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have a 120mm hub with a long axle, that I want to mount in a frame with 130mm dropouts. In principle, it seems to me that this should be fine, but I want to confirm this. One immediate issue I can see is the spacing for things like a disk brake caliper will be off, but again, adapters for this seems to be fairly widespread. I also imagine that spacers on the axle might be needed to keep the wheel centered when inserting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14299/can-i-run-a-wheel-with-a-130mm-hub-on-a-mountain-bike-with-135mm-spacing&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; question looks at a similar issue, but the suggested answers amount to &quot;buy the correct width hub&quot;. Supposing this is not possible, is it really just as simple as buying some spacers and making sure the wheel fits snugly and evenly? Am I missing something important here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T23:46:30.950" Title="Can I mount a wheel with a narrow hub to a wide frame?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21667" CreationDate="2014-05-22T23:46:30.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is yes, you can add washers to the axle and shove it in. If you put all the washers on the chain side the disk brake will still work without modification, at the expense of a crappy chain line (assuming you have derailleur gears - with a singlespeed you'll probably have to change the BB or you'll often drop the chain). Or you can space both sides and the disk caliper with washers as well to even things up (spacing the rotor is fraught as the washers all have to be exactly the same thickness and you can't buy them that way. The failure mode here the the rotor deforming under load and possibly locking your wheel up). It will be almost as strong that way as in the right size frame, assuming your washers are flat and the nuts are done up tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you shouldn't do this, especially with a disk brake, is that there is a surprising amount of force applies to the rear wheel of your bike. By adding spacers you're adding longer levers to the little 10mm axle that has to cope with those loads. Since the initial lever is very short, even a small increase can have dramatic effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about the left hand side. In normal use the wheel bearings are only 10-15mm away from the dropout. Changing that by 5mm makes it 15-20mm. Which is ok if you started at the 10mm end of the scale, but going from 15mm to 20mm with a design rating of 15mm... not so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably get away with this because there's so much excess built into most bikes. They have to be designed to cope with 120kg dudes sitting on the seat as they ride off curbs, so your average 80kg bike nut is just not going to stress the bike the same way. So by spacing out the hub you've shrunk that margin of error, rather than immediately breaking something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T23:46:30.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-23T07:56:58.903" Score="2" ViewCount="4515" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike's shifter for lowering the rear gears is not working. It just slide all the way and &quot;click&quot;, &quot;click&quot; sound comes but gear does't shift to lower ones. Its currently stuck at the 7th gear and won't shift. The cable also appears to be a little loose. What should I do? Please help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11369" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T05:24:19.217" Title="Shimano tourney 7 speed shifter for rear not working" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21670" CreationDate="2014-05-23T08:12:04.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cable could have broken, leaving the derailleur sitting on the smallest cog on the upper limit.  I had this a few weeks ago, the cable had broken within the shifter so was not immediately visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If when shifting you feel little or no resistance when trying to change to a lower gear this will be a good indicator that this is the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11292" LastEditorUserId="11292" LastEditDate="2014-05-23T10:34:42.170" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T10:34:42.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21675" CreationDate="2014-05-23T09:44:46.797" Score="-1" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know which type of bicycle is best for weight loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11370" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T00:28:56.753" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T00:28:56.753" Title="Which type of bicycle is best for weight loss?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-05-23T12:59:15.033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23998" CreationDate="2014-05-23T09:51:27.783" Score="5" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mineral oil is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil&quot;&gt;much less toxic&lt;/a&gt; than DOT, &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/dot-fluid-vs-mineral-oil-432610.html&quot;&gt;does not absorb water&lt;/a&gt;, has higher boiling point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bleeding Shimano brakes is almost as easy as unscrewing the caliper bolt and pouring oil into the lever system. On the other hand, for Avid-s one needs to observe strict vacuum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would so many companies bother with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States_Department_of_Transportation&quot;&gt;American-specific&lt;/a&gt; oil and vacuum-reliant system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mineral Oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shimano&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Magura&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tektro&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Gatorbrake  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DOT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hayes&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Avid&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Formula&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hope   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T14:38:02.200" Title="Why would anyone use DOT fluid and vacuum-based brakes?" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21673" CreationDate="2014-05-23T09:57:41.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whichever type you will ride the most. If you like to go off road, get a mountain bike. If you plan to stay on the roads, then a road bike or hybrid will work well. Make sure the bike fits you well and is comfortable. Make sure it is a good quality bike that won't break after 1000 km. A bike that's sitting in your garage because you don't like it or because it was cheap and didn't last will not help you lose weight. Any type of biking combined with a proper diet will help you lose weight, provided you put in the miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T09:57:41.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21670" CreationDate="2014-05-23T13:43:01.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best is to go to LBS to solve it, as there are several details to consider.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But if you want to do it yourself, here is some advice:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Check the cable for rust inside the outers - how smooth does it move inside. If it rust, replace it (the way to do it depends on the shifter you have).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Screw almost to end the B screw (this screw have a hole in it's center, and the cable go throw it).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. At the 9mm screw under the derailleur see how the cable go throw it, then open it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4. Check that all outers are in their places.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5. Pull the cable as tight as you can and while you continue pull it, tight the 9mm screw.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then check that all gears are work good - it might desire some adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-02T02:38:08.620" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T02:38:08.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21678" CreationDate="2014-05-23T14:14:47.350" Score="1" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given few options to choose the handlebar size for my future road bike. The frame size is 60cm but for the handlebar I have these options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;40x90,40x100,42x100,42x110,&lt;strong&gt;44x110,44x120&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured myself from shoulder to shoulder and it's 44cm, so there are only two options for me. The problem is that I don't know what the second number mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is for daily use and some events/triathlons, but most of all is for daily use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T14:35:26.580" Title="Handlebar size options" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21677" CreationDate="2014-05-23T14:35:26.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming these are Drop handlebars, the second dimension would be reach or drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, as you're buying a complete bike, not just bars, the second dimension is very likely to be &lt;strong&gt;stem length&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T14:35:26.580" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5360" CreationDate="2014-05-23T15:20:05.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried both Brompton and Dahon. Believe me there's nothing comparable to a Brompton. It definitely deserves how much you pay for it. The best part about Brompton is how it can be folded, I don't know any names can do better at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11373" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T15:20:05.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18578" CreationDate="2014-05-23T16:10:18.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Origin rear light and I've seen that it can be charged via usb and also have the lights on  at the same time. If you want to have it powered by a Dynamo, what you could do is have the Dynamo connected to it the whole time on the bike and be lighting at the same time. That could be a way to pull it off and never have to take it off. Also, if you have daylight, the lights could be off and charging so you can use it when the night comes. Good luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11367" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T16:10:18.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-25T12:08:27.877" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently feel very tired yet have not been doing much interns of high mileage, I have however entered a Tuesday night tt series which is usually 10 miles but the week it was a 25 mile tt. I feel particularly burnt out despite the low mileage I have accumulated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I wait till my chronic training load and acute training load drops and start again with lsd rides and attempt to build my form up from the beginning again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T13:56:44.550" Title="Should I let chronic training load drop (as in stop training) to end my current level of tiredness or continue riding?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2014-05-26T04:17:24.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21686" CreationDate="2014-05-25T13:56:44.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of one particularly hard road racing season, I felt pretty tired as well. I decided to take about 3-4 days completely off the bike and by the end of that I felt good again and ready to go. If you haven't even taken that off you might try. Also be sure to eat right and get enough sleep if you're not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But everyone's body is different. Attempting to build form back up &quot;from the beginning&quot; seems like a strong initial reaction if you haven't tried more simple R&amp;amp;R first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T13:56:44.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32932" CreationDate="2014-05-25T18:10:52.013" Score="2" ViewCount="697" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just measured the inner width of my rim with a ruler and it seemed to be a hair over 14mm.  Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the tire sizing chart on Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt; it doesn't have an entry for 14mm inner width rims. My wheels are Vuelta Corsa HDs (nashbar special), and that rim is probably used on other Vuelta wheels, so I'm thinking it's not an unusual size. Might they be considered 15mm? Anyone know the official spec for those rims?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T16:45:27.167" Title="What's the inner width of my rim?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21692" CreationDate="2014-05-25T21:49:01.110" Score="1" ViewCount="1133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been given an old bike from the road which has gears where you can't tell what gear the lever is in (there is no number) just a lever in one of three positions or seven for the back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if I upgrade this front gear lever system do I have to upgrade one, both or neither of the (1) rear cassette and (2) rear derailuer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11110" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T12:38:18.493" Title="if you replace the front gear system do you need to replace both the rear casette and the rear derailuer or neither" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21691" CreationDate="2014-05-25T22:35:50.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can completely change the front setup (shifter, cables, crankset and/or derailleur) completely independently of the cassette and rear derailleur/shifter with no problem. &#xA;If it's a used bike it may be worth checking the chain/cassette are not worn in case the do need to be changed (but would be unrelated to the fact that the front setup was changed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update - &#xA;As per comment from @batman, if the size of the crankset has changed the length of the chain may need to be updated also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11292" LastEditorUserId="11292" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T12:38:18.493" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T12:38:18.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20798" CreationDate="2014-05-26T03:07:56.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're fine. We haul a BoB behind carbon bikes all the time. The dropouts are metal and the quick release equally supports with no twisting moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11394" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T03:07:56.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14817" CreationDate="2014-05-26T03:20:39.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a problem finding a replacement bolt myself recently, including stopping at a local bike shop (which claimed not to have them) and did some searching--a good source I found was &lt;a href=&quot;http://boltdepot.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bolt Depot&lt;/a&gt;. As for keeping the bolts serviceable, one thing you may want to try is coating most of the bolt (including the hex recess) with a quality paste wax. While it won't prevent most wear, it will help prevent corrosion of the threads and seating surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, last but not least, apply thread lock, as mentioned by Gary above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11395" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T03:20:39.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7168" CreationDate="2014-05-26T03:28:26.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one has mentioned the fact that on folding bikes, the handlepost is connected to the frame at 12+ inches from the handlebars whereas a road bike or a city bike are connected to the frame within a few inches. That makes handling &quot;squirrely.&quot; One gets used to it quickly but you cannot relax as much while riding as on a standard bike. No &quot;look Ma! No hands!&quot; on a folder. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11396" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T03:28:26.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21697" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-05-26T13:06:32.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A protective hat worn cyclists to reduce the impact to the head in the event of a fall or collision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11374" LastEditorUserId="11374" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T18:10:04.280" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T18:10:04.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21698" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-05-26T13:06:32.603" Score="0" Body="A protective head covering worn cyclists." OwnerUserId="11374" LastEditorUserId="11374" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T18:09:32.240" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T18:09:32.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14817" CreationDate="2014-05-26T13:24:29.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can just look at the data sheet for the screw type and pick them up at your hardware store or go to your LBS and pick up something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sunlitecycling.com/product_detail.php?short_code=Cleat+Screws&amp;amp;cl1=PEDALS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sunlite Cleat Screw pack&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you need a countersunk M5 x 11.5  mm (which could likely be replaced with a M5 x 10mm or M5 x 12 mm which are easy to get at Home Depot - I'd probably go for the latter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T13:24:29.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21700" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-05-26T13:32:44.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part of the brake that absorbs the friction during the braking action, whether this is on a rim brake or a disk brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are frequently made of rubber or a synthetic material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11374" LastEditorUserId="11374" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T17:11:33.880" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T17:11:33.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21701" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-05-26T13:32:44.950" Score="0" Body="The part of the brake that absorbs the friction during the braking action." OwnerUserId="11374" LastEditorUserId="11374" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T17:12:05.350" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T17:12:05.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21665" CreationDate="2014-05-26T16:08:16.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found one insurance that will be of interest for Germans:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The insurance broker &lt;a href=&quot;http://de.osdinternational.com/inthvuv.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OSD&lt;/a&gt; offers a liability insurance for German nationals that live temporarily abroad, for up to 5 years. The insurance company is called BDAE - Bund der Auslands-Erwerbstätigen, they work with Würzburger.&#xA;The liability explicitly covers bicycles &quot;4. aus dem Besitz und dem Gebrauch von Fahrrädern;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has 5 million Eur coverage and is much cheaper than the renters insurance, about 100 Eur per year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't yet received a written confirmation from the U.S. based insurance that they cover bicycle liability, I'll post it when I get it. I am quite convinced that renters insurance would cover bike accidents, here is an older page with some good comments. &lt;a href=&quot;http://303cycling.com/what-cyclists-should-know-about-insurance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;303 Cycling news&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went with a German international liability insurance from Allianz. It is valid for up to 5 years abroad (no time restrictions for the EU), and the clock is reset with every visit back. They confirmed this in writing.&#xA;It costs about 90 Eur per year. The max liability amount is 30 M Eur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The U.S. renters insurance was State Farm, they confirmed on the phone that they would cover bike liability, but they never replied to me when I asked for a written confirmation.&#xA;It would have cost $270 for $2M coverage.&#xA;Many of the other insurance companies in the U.S. only offer relatively meager amounts of coverage (~ 100k), so I would recommend a closer look at State Farm for anyone interested (please post an update in that case), I am certain that they would cover bike liability, I just did not want to dig through the insurance policy when they can't be bothered to reply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11358" LastEditorUserId="11358" LastEditDate="2014-06-14T17:20:04.717" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T17:20:04.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21703" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-05-26T17:28:30.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specialized system(s) of a bicycle that insulate a rider from rough terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Types of suspension: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspension seatpost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspension saddle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bicycle with only front suspension is called a &lt;strong&gt;hardtail&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bicycle with no suspension is called &lt;strong&gt;rigid&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11374" LastEditorUserId="11374" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T18:09:59.167" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T18:09:59.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21704" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-05-26T17:28:30.223" Score="0" Body="The specialized system(s) of a bicycle that insulate a rider from rough terrain." OwnerUserId="11374" LastEditorUserId="11374" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T18:09:55.393" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T18:09:55.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21707" CreationDate="2014-05-26T20:24:43.007" Score="0" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to upgrade the chainset on my GT Avalanche 1.0 2013 so I have no front mech or shifter and just one ring on the front; just 10 gears instead of 30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current chainset is a Shimano M522 Octalink triple with a Shimano es52 BB and a Shimano HG81 10spd cassette and I'd like to upgrade to a Shimano Zee 10sp M640 with an m980 xtr bottom bracket (or similar), so essentially just 10 gears instead of 30. I believe the shell on the bike is 68mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I understand there is a difference between the BBs, is it  just a straight swap of the BBs and disconnect of the front mech/shifter, assuming I have the correct tools? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I also have to change my cassette and chain? Maybe even the rear shifter and mech?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11400" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T23:39:21.157" Title="Triple chainset to single chainset; BB compatability?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21724" CreationDate="2014-05-26T22:23:18.410" Score="4" ViewCount="14502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Athena 11 speed group set, but can get a good deal on the Shimano 9000 chain. Does anyone know of any reports of issues combining the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T13:03:59.130" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T22:03:59.193" Title="Are Campagnolo and Shimano 11 speed chains interchangeable?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;&lt;groupsets&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21705" CreationDate="2014-05-26T22:23:33.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this will be a straight swap (although you will need a cartridge BB tool, crank remover and HollowTech II BB tools)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The M980 bottom bracket is compatible with 68/73mm English threaded frames and HollowTech II cranksets such as the M640.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would not have to change anything else on the drive train unless they were worn as running worn chain on a new chain ring can accelerate wear. However there are other things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to consider a narrow/wide chain ring or some form of chain retention to avoid chain drops once you remove the FD. As the Avalanche doesn't have ISCG tabs an option would be similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://bionicon.com/cguide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this guide from Bionicon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to shorten your chain by removing links to fit the new set up. Use a chain equation such as this from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tools&lt;/a&gt; to get the correct length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your current set up will also be running a long cage derailleur which will now be redundant and you could move to a medium length RD. The longer cage could exacerbate chain slap so may be worth changing if that is important too you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T23:39:21.157" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T23:39:21.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4168" CreationDate="2014-05-27T06:01:41.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You go through gears like crazy without lubricant. Metal to metal is hard environment, the chain wear causing the gears to wear out is very high without lubricant. With proper maintenance and lubrication you can go through three chains on one cassette, without it I've managed to burn two chainrings and chains so far within months. These things are made to last years, mind you. You should be able to get 10k miles out of one cassette, I get 2-3k because I'm stupid. Bought the  chain oil for the new bike today :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11402" LastEditorUserId="3186" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T10:23:03.673" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T10:23:03.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-27T08:28:04.323" Score="2" ViewCount="922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my brake pads about a week ago and today I noticed that, when turning (or generally under lateral force), the rim touches one of the brake pads (depending on which way I'm turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hadn't noticed it before but today was the first wet day so maybe the sound was louder because of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't notice myself slowing down at all, but don't really want to be unnecessarily wearing down my brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes aren't super close when released, maybe 2-3mm on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect a certain amount of flex in the wheel, but as I built the wheel myself I just wanted to check that this wasn't a problem with my build (though its already done 1000 miles probably so it cant be too bad!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would be room to widen the brakes slightly if this is all that might be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When stationary and holding the wheel and applying lateral force manually I can make the rim touch either brake pad without a great deal of effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11292" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T09:21:05.067" Title="When turning a corner my rear wheel touches the brake pad, is this normal?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21710" CreationDate="2014-05-27T09:21:05.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should check the wheel hubs. They may have too much free play. Take out the wheel and wiggle the axle. See Sheldon Brown's page here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The new brake pads may be closer to the rims than the old ones so that the fault showed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T09:21:05.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-27T10:01:16.547" Score="3" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan to use speed/cadence sensor, however my bicycle wheel size is 650c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess, there are no problem about cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for speed (wheel speed sensor), will it work correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11404" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-07-30T09:33:32.693" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T09:33:32.693" Title="Will speed/cadence sensor work with 650c bicycle" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;sensor&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21712" CreationDate="2014-05-27T10:14:22.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With common digital cycle computers, wheel size shouldn't be an issue as you can configure them to work for any reasonable tire size on the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T10:14:22.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21727" CreationDate="2014-05-27T10:44:31.183" Score="9" ViewCount="1333" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing some training rides on courses without bigger ups and downs where I didn't make significant elevation gains, a recent ride was in more rough terrain. Of course, the relief changes the average speed one can achieve and I was wondering, if there are some rules of thumb to estimate the influence of the relief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From hiking I know there is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naismith%27s_rule&quot;&gt;Naismith's rule&lt;/a&gt; which allows to calculate the time needed for a certain route based on distance and elevation. I am aware of the fact that with cycling the rule would be less general and require more calibration depending on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mountain vs. road bike &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;greater difference between uphill and downhill speeds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On outdoors.SX.com also someone presented a &lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/a/5595/2410&quot;&gt;slightly different approach&lt;/a&gt; that translates different parameters (elevation gain, trail conditions etc.) into distance travelled, which could be another useful approach here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, is there some rule of thumb or a set of rules of thumb for cycling as well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T11:09:37.067" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T17:02:01.510" Title="Is there a cycling equivalent to Naismith's rule" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;planning&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20948" CreationDate="2014-05-27T12:41:18.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked into DH gloves, but was disappointed, that the only locally available model has non-breathable fabric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LpF0j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I got the Endura MT500. Those things are &lt;strong&gt;quite pricy&lt;/strong&gt;. However, they offer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;excellent breathability for the summer heat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I haven't tried the rubber locations, but the fabric holds well against bushes and tree branches (my original intent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;excellent grip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a fast-drying location to wipe off sweat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPgrl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was actually so fascinated, that I went on to purchase other items form the same product line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T12:41:18.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4120" CreationDate="2014-05-27T15:57:39.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a torque wrench because I like a little piece of mind, and have unfortunately ruined a few parts by over tightening.  I have a Wright Tool torque wrench which is perfect. No complaints and no more broken components.  You can pick one up for a decent price off ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11406" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T13:34:13.343" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T13:34:13.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-27T16:11:25.373" Score="7" ViewCount="14631" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to make simple activity tracking wristbands like the fitbit work more accurately during a bike ride. Currently I wear the wristband on my wrist, but the rides tend to read like barely any exercise is occurring during these sessions. I believe these devices act more like a pedometer. Would wearing them on an ankle be more accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4734" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T05:16:03.097" Title="Is there a way to make activity wristbands read bike rides more accurately?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;performance-tracking&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21717" CreationDate="2014-05-27T16:14:34.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that they either tend to over record or totally under record- depending on the type of surface that I am cycling on. I have found the best is just to add the activity manually on their website with the distance/time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T16:14:34.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21714" CreationDate="2014-05-27T17:22:49.063" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have noted, the problem is slightly more complicated for a bicycle since aerodynamic drag is a larger component. However, one can combine two rules of thumb which are given in these two bicycles.stackexchange answers (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7774/how-do-i-calculate-the-power-required-to-climb-a-hill-at-a-given-cadence/7810#7810&quot;&gt;How do I calculate power to climb a hill&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9764/how-many-miles-of-riding-require-the-same-effort-as-one-mile-of-running/9876#9876&quot;&gt;How many miles of riding are equivalent to one mile of running&lt;/a&gt;) to make an estimate of either speed or power on the flat and on climbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are only concerned about climbing the rule of thumb is simpler: on a steep hill, multiply the hill's gradient by your speed in km/h, then by ~ 3. If you measure your speed in mph, multiply by 5 rather than 3. That will give you a ballpark estimate of the watts/kg you need to produce. Since you're trying to calculate riding speed, just &quot;solve backwards&quot; given the equivalent power (in watts/kg) for a given slope. For flat roads where aerodynamic forces predominate, you will need to have a ballpark estimate of your &quot;drag area&quot; which mostly depends on your position on your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T17:34:01.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21665" CreationDate="2014-05-27T17:54:57.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bob Mionske has been banging the insurance drum for years, and has a column from two years ago that links to an insurance product that's theoretically coming soon:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclelaw.com/road-rights/a.cfm/road-rights-just-in-case&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclelaw.com/road-rights/a.cfm/road-rights-just-in-case&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://spokeinsurance.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://spokeinsurance.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better World Club briefly offered such a service for bicycle members, but apparently discontinued it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.betterworldclub.com/bicycles/bike_faq.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.betterworldclub.com/bicycles/bike_faq.cfm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;American liability insurance requirements are far lower than those in Germany, unfortunately, because we have structured our society so that, outside a few major cities, just about every idiot out there needs to be able to drive in order to live a normal life. California's minimum liability requirement is $15,000, which is exhausted in approximately 3 seconds in an American hospital:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs%2Fbrochures/fast_facts/ffvr18.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs%2Fbrochures/fast_facts/ffvr18.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T17:54:57.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21145" CreationDate="2014-05-27T18:09:26.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are camping in the forest, many folks are fans of a camping hammock, which is lightweight and doesn't require a sleeping pad in warm weather.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/c/hammock-tents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/c/hammock-tents&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?45778-Bikepacking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?45778-Bikepacking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, for the sake of Googling, that off-road lightweight bike touring is often referred to as 'bikepacking'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T18:09:26.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-27T18:32:11.137" Score="0" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is a funnily named question, but please bear with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pain was new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My calves were incredibly sore - it was painful to walk (Likely owing as I had to walk up stairs - I probably did more than 10 stories pacing a coworker literally half my weight among other issues.  I'm heavy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't rotate on my heels during my stride at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite this, my cycling was just fine.  I didn't feel my calves nearly as much as when I tried to stand up and walk!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much should I be using my calves during my stroke?  I do have straps on my pedals.  Does the fact that they didn't hurt when I was making my normal cadence suggest I'm &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; using my calves as much as a cyclist should?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="7136" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T19:02:42.220" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T19:22:03.003" Title="Is the lack of activation in sore calves indicative of a poor stroke technique?" Tags="&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21706" CreationDate="2014-05-27T18:53:26.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leonard Zinn has discussed Shimano and Campy 11-speed drivetrain compatibility several times in response to reader questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/09/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-drivetrain-compatibility-for-10-and-11-speed_301392&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Technical FAQ: Drivetrain compatibility for 10- and 11-speed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/11/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-follow-up-on-10-and-11-speed-compatibility_307163&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Technical FAQ: Follow-up on 10- and 11-speed compatibility&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/09/bikes-and-tech/drivetrain-compatibility-hidden-in-plain-sight_303199&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Drivetrain compatibility hidden in plain sight&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although Zinn doesn't specifically address chain compatibility, I'm not sure how you could successfully mix drivetrain components if the chains were incompatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3021" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T18:53:26.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21717" CreationDate="2014-05-27T19:11:32.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.misfitwearables.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Misfit Shine&lt;/a&gt; and it lets you specify the type of activity you are doing. You configure it so that it knows what type of activity you are going to do (cycling). I clip it to my sox and when you start cycling you have to tap it 3 times to tell it you are stating a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjnU9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It runs aboout 3 - 4 months on a battery (2032) and I have accidently run it through the washer and dryer with no ill effects. It has a number of different ways to mount on your person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T19:11:32.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21717" CreationDate="2014-05-27T19:37:55.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A decent amount of bike computers have bluetooth or ANT+ on them, which you can connect to your phone or whatever and read out (as a work around). Apps like runkeeper can also track distance based on GPS roughly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote the &lt;a href=&quot;https://help.fitbit.com/customer/portal/articles/176113-does-the-fitbit-tracker-accurately-track-calories-from-cycling-&quot;&gt;fitbit&lt;/a&gt; people: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;All Fitbit trackers are optimized for walking, running, and general household and lifestyle activities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will not be as accurate for activities like biking, but will record steps if you wear your tracker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For increased accuracy, go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fitbit.com/activities&quot;&gt;http://www.fitbit.com/activities&lt;/a&gt; or click the &quot;log activity&quot; icon from your dashboard to manually log activities like cycling. This will allow for a more accurate estimated calorie burn to be included in your daily totals. Our online database of workouts makes it easy to save and access your favorite activities. For detailed information see How do I log or record an activity?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wearing on ankle may work better, but you'd need to check against a cycling computer or something to see how it works. Alternatively, just use something else like Runkeeper or a bluetooth/ant+ cycling computer or enter stuff from your cycling computer in manually after a ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T19:37:55.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21714" CreationDate="2014-05-28T00:17:46.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For significant climbs, the VAM ( french? for meters climbed per hour ) is all you need to know. If you know your VAM and the height of the climb, then that's how long the climb will take. Road or MTB, it doesn't vary much in my experience unless the trail requires significant hike-a-bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walking speeds just don't vary that much so Naismith's rule generally works pretty well. Biking speeds vary much more from rider to rider, so it's very hard to make any generally useful rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can generalize Naismith's rule for bikes as follows: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time for ride = (distance/average speed on flat ground) + (Total Elevation gain/VAM ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naismith's rule works so well because the two variables are fairly constant for hikers. For bikers, you'll have to figure out what your avg. speed and VAM are to &#xA;estimate how long a ride will take. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T00:17:46.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21729" CreationDate="2014-05-28T00:28:29.060" Score="3" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just unpacked a tubeless wheelset and I'm installing tape and the valve. Which goes first? The tape or the valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wheelset is the DT|Swiss Tricon R 1700. And the manual says: &quot;Mount the DT Swiss valve as shown in the picture. Make sure that NO rim tape ist mounted.&quot;[sic]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7629" LastEditorUserId="7629" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T00:34:35.670" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T23:37:34.467" Title="Do I Install Tape or Valve First on a Tubeless Rim" Tags="&lt;valves&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21728" CreationDate="2014-05-28T01:28:10.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having looked a bit closer, I see these are tubeless specific road wheels. These shouldn't need a rim tape at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just, make sure no rim tape &lt;em&gt;ist&lt;/em&gt; mounted, stick the valve in, screw it on and mount your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. This has complete instructions on page 10.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Support/WHEELS/WHEELS-User-Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dtswiss.com/Resources/Support/WHEELS/WHEELS-User-Manual.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T01:36:12.540" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T01:36:12.540" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-28T12:44:51.567" Score="1" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a downloadable database of professional (road) riders, containing age, height, weight, etc. The only thing I've found so far is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sports-reference.com/olympics/sports/CYC/mens-road-race-individual.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sports-reference.com/olympics/sports/CYC/mens-road-race-individual.html&lt;/a&gt; which seems to have a good amount of information, but is not easily downloadable, as I would have to go to each rider page individually go obtain the data. Any other sources out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T16:57:53.293" Title="Professional Rider Database" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-28T15:04:57.167" Score="3" ViewCount="4789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Shimano 105 Dual Pivot brakes on my bike. They are pretty old (~7 years), and, although I ride the bike very regularly, I do not use the rear brake much and it has become stiff. (By stiff, I mean that the brake does not fully spring back open when I release the lever.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously when this happened, I took the brake off, cleaned it, and then oiled and adjusted the pivots. I used bike chain oil (wet lube). This worked well, but the brake went stiff again pretty quickly so I'm reluctant to do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any tips for a long lasting repair? Should I be using bike oil? Is it worth fully dismantling them (is this possible/advisable?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4191" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T13:39:05.080" Title="How do I fix stiff dual-pivot brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21723" CreationDate="2014-05-28T15:15:38.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basing workload or technique on soreness is a poor indicator of what is going on. You could have bad pedaling technique and never feel it or have great technique with no fitness and feel sore right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely that you are not using your calf muscles as much when you cycle as when you do stairs. Stair running is a great way to train most of the muscles in the leg, and the extension/flexion coming from the edge of the stair is what causes your calves to be sore later. While I don't have any professional experience to back this up, I believe that cycling doesn't quite put your foot through the same range of motion, thereby activating the calf less(I suppose you could point your foot up and down more, but that's bad form).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are likely seeing is a comparison between two activities that use similar muscle groups in different levels. Example: pulling up on a pedal (with cage or cleat) is different than simply lifting your leg up to the next stair since the pedal provides some resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation: rest it for a bit, maybe a day or two and then do both activities moderately and see if you notice any pain. If you do, consult a physician about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T15:15:38.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3545" CreationDate="2014-05-28T15:59:04.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it may have to do with the pressure in your tires. I experience this in an overloaded bicycle as the tire pressure drops (over time) the rear wheel will sometimes feel like it is slipping out from under me on uneven surfaces even if I am not breaking and the surface is dry. I never had this problem with higher pressure tires, it only has begun since changing to wider schwalbe marathon supreme tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11415" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T15:59:04.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-28T18:25:55.173" Score="3" ViewCount="23234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Lappierre Zesty 314  (2012). I'm running XT rear mech, an SLX front mech, my crank is XT, rear cassette is XT and XT chain. I went to the Forest of Dean and after the day was over I snapped my chain! I picked up a SRAM chain for my bike and now when I pedal hard it slips with a big bang. I have new Eastern Havens so my hub is fine. Can you help with any ideas to help me solve this? Shall I get a new rear cassette? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11417" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2020-06-04T18:20:52.103" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T19:33:58.507" Title="Gears slipping after a chain change" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21737" CreationDate="2014-05-28T18:45:05.950" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically you'll want to change your chain and cassette together, since they will both be worn, so it's not surprising that you're experiencing some slipping. It's also possible that your existing cassette is bent or damaged in some way rather than just being worn. I had an old XT 9-speed cassette where I somehow bent a few teeth to the right in the middle range, and even though it was barely noticeable, it made those middle cogs totally useless under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you also bought a new chain that's the appropriate width for your rear cassette (9, 10, 11-speed, whatever). So if it's adjusted well and you have the right chain, I think it's safe to say that you'd benefit from also replacing the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4164" LastEditorUserId="4164" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T18:54:54.350" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T18:54:54.350" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21737" CreationDate="2014-05-28T19:11:50.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look up the proper chain for the components. XT is not a size - that is the group level.   You should size the chain for the number of speeds (gears).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspect the cassette.  As they wear the teeth get sharper spaces get longer.  Visually compare it to a new cassette even if you are looking at a picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your chain snapped then possible something else is damaged.  Inspect all the drive components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cassette typically last 2-3 chains.  If you get a new cassette then change the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A worn chain wears a cassette down faster.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And a worn cassette wears a chain down faster.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chain is cheaper and easier to change so cheaper to stay with a fresh chain.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are tools to measure chain stretch.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Replace a stretched chain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new chain on a worn cassette will jump - basically both the chain and cassette stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T19:28:59.797" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T19:28:59.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21723" CreationDate="2014-05-28T19:22:03.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert in racing or anything but the calves shouldn't be activated almost at all when cycling to my knowledge. You're not extending the calves at the bottom of the stroke and the amount of pressure would be insignificant unless you're deliberately extending the calves while on a very hard gear / slope. If anything this calf extension would be less efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calves are a very difficult muscle to train and requires serious weight. If you see a cyclists with large calves its most likely from one or a combination of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was heavier and lost weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cross trains something that does more calf activation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Genetics (yes, its true genetics play a factor probably more in calves then nearly any other muscle group)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the pain you may have gotten a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shin_splints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shin Splint&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing BMX or Off-Roading where you're frequently doing jumps and tricks then the calves will play a much larger role in your cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8397" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T19:22:03.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21717" CreationDate="2014-05-28T20:00:46.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seem to be a number of folks requesting Strava to integrate with fitbit directly, but it doesn't appear to be there yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://strava.zendesk.com/entries/25993455-Fitbit-integration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://strava.zendesk.com/entries/25993455-Fitbit-integration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that page, somebody mentions Syncmetrics which might make syncing easier compared with manually entering the data into the fitbit site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.syncmetrics.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.syncmetrics.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11418" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T20:00:46.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21733" CreationDate="2014-05-28T22:07:38.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a rear case that I would use WD40 or even engine degreaser on a bike part. Remove the pads, drown the brake in one of these and work it till its free. Might be worth removing from bike and soaking in a bath. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would no dismatle it unless the above did not work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the part is moving freely it will have no lube on it. Clean it with hot soapy water, dry it out and use a dry lube rather than a wet lube -  it won't attract the dirt. Alternately use a wet lube but regularly re lube it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T22:07:38.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21744" CreationDate="2014-05-29T00:37:13.943" Score="0" ViewCount="1659" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find the air pressure/weight guide for DT Swiss shocks? Or do all shocks have similar guidelines as far as pressure and rider weight goes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9135" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T01:17:41.993" Title="How much air pressure for dt swiss m3 shock" Tags="&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21743" CreationDate="2014-05-29T01:17:41.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual way to do this is to use the sag as a guide. The geometry of your frame will affect the load on the shock and the pressure you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, put a zip-tie around the shaft of your shock*, or use the little rubber band if it has one and push it down against the seal. Next get dressed for riding and &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt; sit on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get off you'll be able to measure how for the shock moved under your weight. This is your sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people recommend between 10 and 20 percent of the total travel for sag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* Not too tight, you don't want to damage the seal.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T01:17:41.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21737" CreationDate="2014-05-29T04:50:32.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chain slip, after replacing a chain, usually indicates worn cog(s) and/or chain-wheel. This can be avoided by replacing the chain early, before major wear has taken place.&#xA;The snapped chain is problematic. The break could have been caused by an extremely worn chain. If the original chain had no master-link, it could be that the pin was not installed exactly as it should have been. This pin could have popped out on a well worn chain. &#xA;If you still have the broken chain, re-install the chain, replacing the broken link with a quick-link (master-link). Now, does the old chain slip? (be careful during testing) If the old chain does not slip &amp;amp; the new chain slips, then you will need to replace the cassette in order to use the new chain. (one or more chain-wheels may need to be replaced also)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T04:50:32.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21712" CreationDate="2014-05-29T04:59:48.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes; the computer will require you to enter the tire's circumference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T04:59:48.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21750" CreationDate="2014-05-29T11:50:09.483" Score="0" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm using a pair of &quot;fully sealed tubeless rims&quot; do I need to use sealant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm seeing some sites state that it is unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is really spawned by the statement that &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/21728/do-i-install-tape-or-valve-first-on-a-tubeless-rim/21729#comment39842_21729&quot;&gt;sealant corrodes rims&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7629" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:20:35.657" Title="Do I Need to Use Sealant?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21749" CreationDate="2014-05-29T12:16:54.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the rim is tubeless (fully sealed) and the tire is fully tubeless then correct you do not need to use sealant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubeless ready tire then you do need to use sealant.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A benefit of the sealant is to also repair small holes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fully tubeless is a heavier tire.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tubeless ready with sealant is more common set up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tubeless rim manufactures such as Stans recommend tape to protect from corrosion from the sealant.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T12:38:32.030" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T12:38:32.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18713" CreationDate="2014-05-29T13:00:40.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting more weight on a bike is not going to make it easier to climb a hill.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is just weight you have to carry up a the hill.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for rotational momentum to carry you through the stroke that is just rotational momentum you need to put back in the wheel on the down stroke.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are stalling out on a hill climb a better solution is a lower gear (and less not more weight). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T13:00:40.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21733" CreationDate="2014-05-29T13:39:05.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By stiff, I mean that the brake does not fully spring back open when I release the lever &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spring back could be several things&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 - brake stiff&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 - brake spring worn (weak)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3 - resistance in the cable&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4 - resistance in the brake lever&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5 - bad spring in the brake lever    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the cable removed from the brake depress brake with your hand and see if it springs back  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With cable removed from the brake depress the brake lever then pull the cable back.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you feel resistance then look upstream.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A dry cable with a little rust will have a lot of resistance.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A frayed cable needs to be replaced.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Avoid removing the cable from the housing (unless you are replacing it).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you just remove the housing from the bike you should have room to move the housing around to lubricate the cable.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I like triflo for cables.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T13:39:05.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17562" CreationDate="2014-05-29T15:18:16.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Galfer pads, standard pads a pretty grippy and quiet!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Burn in. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean with  neat alcohol, available from most DIY shops, at least in Spain for about €2 a litre. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not contaminate, keep chain and derailleur lubrication well clear. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tight mounting bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&#xA;MM, Hondon de las Nieves, Spain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10915" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T02:46:40.680" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T02:46:40.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21086" CreationDate="2014-05-29T15:41:36.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to learn BMX type tricks then rigid    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BMX bikes come rigid   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BMX bikes also come single speed  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension and gears cost money. &#xA;Put that money into better frame and components.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a mtn bike don't worry about dedicated single speed. &#xA;A single speed conversion kit lets you go to gears later. &#xA;Even if you don't want to convert it for yourself it will tend to have better resale  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get mtn bike with a low slung frame and a tube that lets you go way down with seat&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(some seat tubes have a bend). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a 26&quot; used mtn bike with a nice frame that has a worn out shock and gears and convert it to rigid single speed. &#xA;Since mtn bikers want 29&quot; there are some really good deals on used 26&quot; mtn bikes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Especially 26&quot; mtn bikes without disc brakes. &#xA;You don't want to go so old that it has the 1&quot; treaded fork. &#xA;You want a 1-1/8˝ threadless steerers.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T17:09:40.610" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T17:09:40.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-29T15:51:16.977" Score="2" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently (last 6 months) begun riding again after many years away and have begun updating components on my bike (a mid 80s era Fuji).  After replacing the rear wheel and freewheel I developed a problem with the chain slipping.  On a 7 speed freewheel, the 2 highest gears run fine, the 3rd gear slips somewhere between the 10th and 15th turn under load (but not when hand cranked with no load), the 4th gear slips so badly under load that it won't engage (again, I can't repeat this by hand cranking with no load), and gears 5 - 7 work fine.  Thinking that it could be caused by the old chain I replaced it but the same conditions still occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All cables have been recently replaced.&#xA;The rear derailleur was replaced about 1 month ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11429" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T07:12:04.910" Title="Chain skipping with new chain and freewheel" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21757" CreationDate="2014-05-29T16:18:26.883" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a worn cassette. For most people, the middle gears are most used and thus have the most wear. I'm not in the camp that you replace the cassette every time you replace the chain, but it sounds like you are ready for a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1036" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T16:18:26.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-30T01:10:10.667" Score="2" ViewCount="2884" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which rim tape should i use for 700x28 tires? I can only find 700x17 or 700x14...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just measured my 26&quot; and the (outside) base of the rim is 24mm... and i used rim tape that is 20mm wide... it fitted fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for my 700 tire, the base of the rim measures some 23mm... almost the same as the 26&quot;...  yet the tape will be 3mm short. will that make any difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, would i be able to use the 26&quot; tape on the 700?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T15:34:50.283" Title="Which rim tape for 700x28 tires?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21761" CreationDate="2014-05-30T02:23:53.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it covers the back sides of the nipples and isn't interfering with the bead you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tape is just there to protect your tube from and sharp edges, getting worn through over time or blowing out down a spoke hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html#rimtapes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T02:23:53.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10469" CreationDate="2014-05-30T10:28:24.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of good (&amp;amp; beautiful!) answers already! I think I'm in the same boat as you. I primarily use my bike for commute or short road trips near home but also like to go across the odd field or up the hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love the &lt;strong&gt;* hybrid bike frame *&lt;/strong&gt; type. I wanted a basic frame (nothing too light or expensive) but with quality parts. I have had a hybrid specialized for last 10+ years. On it I had 25mm tyres, then mountain, then very very worn mountain, then 25mm marathon (the kevlar bulletproof ones), now mountain tyres (with front suspension on new bike as old bike was stolen :-7). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;* Mountain tyres good on bad surfaces and in wet. *&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;On roads and cycle lanes here (Dublin, Ireland) there are alot of uneven surfaces and I find commute with mountain tyres much more stable going over uneven surface, going up kerbs. Much more grip in wet. Less dangerous as the mountain tyres and suspension do the hard work over cracks and potholes. It &lt;strong&gt;__is__&lt;/strong&gt; a bit(for large values of bit) harder work pedalling (especially on way home up hill!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;* 25mm road tyres faster on smooth roads*&lt;/strong&gt; With the bullet-proof marathon tyres with high pressure I could go alot faster on roads. You can feel there is less friction. I could also really feel every crack and ridge and bit of gravel in the road. I really had to focus and concentrate looking ahead alot at the surface I was going over. (But don't ever look down at your front wheel, keep head up and trust front wheel to steer itself like the mountainbikers do). This surface observing does take a bit of attention from looking up and ahead at traffic lights and buses and pedestrians and things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;* Off road and up the hills *&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I took both types of tyres off road on occasion. I would not take anything narrower than 25mm off road I think unless it was on quite even hard-packed gravel tracks. The 25mm tyres do very nicely on mountain tracks and over short bits of reasonably hard grass or other surface. Not ideal though as ride is bumpier for you and tyres will catch an edge and be more reluctant to just flow over uneven surface. The mountain tyres (and bit of suspension) really makes a difference here and makes going off road more fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SO if you are going to be going over nice smooth roads then go for narrower tyres. These do work off-road for occasional use. The mountain tyres are a bit harder work every day in a commute although they pay off with safety and more comfy ride. And of course they work better off road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T10:28:24.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21761" CreationDate="2014-05-30T15:34:50.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the rim design. Generally you want the tape to cover the spoke holes, but only just. Measure the width at the bottom flat of the inside of the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could get Veloplugs, these are plastic inserts that snap into the spoke holes and are both lighter and less hassle than rim tape. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HPwby.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;VeloPlugs Red&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.togoparts.com/articles/article.php?artid=201&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.togoparts.com/articles/article.php?artid=201&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long term, I sometimes have problems with rim tape creeping slightly and exposing just a small bit of spoke hole. This always leads to recurring flats until you find&#xA;where the tape has shifted. This happens more with some rims than others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only gotcha with VeloPlugs is that they come in two sizes (Red and Yellow) and you need to get the size that matches your rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T15:34:50.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21772" CreationDate="2014-05-30T20:11:18.733" Score="5" ViewCount="20358" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q45g3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;I purchased some touring shoes (Giro Republic) that support a two bolt cleat. I opted for a standard, popular Shimano M520L pedal with matching cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed the pedals, loosened the tension on the clip mechanism, and install the cleats with the triangular end facing forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I can't clip in. It appears that the rubber pads surrounding the shoe make contact with the pedal axle before the cleat can engage with the back of the pedal. Note the forward part of the cleat is hooked into the front, as expected. The rear is sitting on top of the sprint mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is there something I am doing wrong in my install process? The dealer indicated they have not had reports of incompatibility between this particular shoe and cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5787" LastEditorUserId="5787" LastEditDate="2014-06-01T22:27:50.597" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T13:15:30.870" Title="My SPD shoes + cleats won't clip in to my SPD pedals" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21765" CreationDate="2014-05-30T21:36:02.927" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally the cleats come with some shims for exactly this problem. If you have the box with the original pedals look around for some thin cleat shaped shims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find them, you can hand make shims out of plastic milk bottles, or ask around at the dealer to see if they have any spares handy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T21:36:02.927" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-31T11:37:55.090" Score="2" ViewCount="26069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a single speed cycle and i want to have minimum of six gears on it, Is there a cheap and good way so that i can get gears on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11449" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T00:17:39.370" Title="Adding gears to a single speed Cycle" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21767" CreationDate="2014-05-31T14:12:14.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was a multi speed with single speed conversion kit then yes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You will know it was a conversion if there are spacers on either side of rear gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is dedicated single speed then no cheap or good way.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The wheel does not have room for gears.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even the dropouts are a smaller width.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some wheels are set up that you can put a freewheel (or fixed) on both sides.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;White has a freewheel that has two gears.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But that is not multi-speed - that is a bike that can be set up with different fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I agree with the comment from Hicks&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sell the bike and buy used multi speed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Single speed bikes are popular and sell at a premium on CraigsList  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T13:26:35.317" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T13:26:35.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21771" CreationDate="2014-05-31T18:56:34.673" Score="1" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gearing up for my first big upgrade and recently bought a pair of Shimano SLX brakes for both my (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en/bikes/2009/archive/fisher/piranha/#/ca/en/archive-model/details?url=ca/en/bikes/2009/archive/fisher/piranha&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2009 Gary Fisher Piranha&lt;/a&gt;) and my wife's (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en/bikes/2011/archive/trek/6000wsd/#/ca/en/archive-model/details?url=ca/en/bikes/2011/archive/trek/6000wsd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2011 Trek 6000 WSD&lt;/a&gt;) bikes. I'm just wondering if it's worth upgrading the rotors to SLX rotors also or can I continue to use the existing rotors? Is it safe to assume that if I have rotors that work with resin pads they'll continue to work with the new SLX resin pads? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11453" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T22:46:38.143" Title="Upgrading SLX brakes, do I also need SLX rotors?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21397" CreationDate="2014-05-31T20:54:51.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There might be 1001 things, but here is one more: Maybe your pedal arm is bent therefor once per rotation it is touching the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T20:54:51.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21769" CreationDate="2014-05-31T22:46:38.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Proviso - I assume your existing rotors are in good condition - if not the upgrade is a replacement of a worn component which needs doing anyway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be fine to use existing rotors.  Rotors come in all shapes and sizes and prices, so it can get confusing, but within the same size, the difference is more about balancing cost, weight and durability, the ability to shed mud and the ability to handle heat. Throw into this mix marketing and sales, and most of the information you will find is driven towards getting you to spend money you do not need to spend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would be advantages in upgrading, my guess is they would be very small and probably imperceptible once riding. You gave no indication how much cash you have burning a hole in your pocket, so we cannot really give you a &quot;Is it worth it? Yes/No&quot; answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T22:46:38.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21765" CreationDate="2014-06-01T01:49:31.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding an answer to summarize the the suggestions already made in comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this problem with a pedal/show combination. My solution was to trim the sole where it interfered with the pedals.  Initially I hesitated to do this to my nice new shoes, but subsequently never gave the missing blocks a second though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other option was to install different pedals, which I had. I decided I wanted to have the pedals as they were usable for the quick trip to the corner store in my street shoes or a spin around the block with my preschool son. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T01:49:31.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-01T04:04:12.120" Score="0" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what brand this is at all. Any help would be much appreciated. I've tried looking up the serial but i am unsure what the last serial number is. It appears to be a &quot;b&quot; or &quot;6&quot; but I am unsure. The serial is located on the bottom bracket and it appears to have been originally green, but was then painted over as grey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KM5CJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bike frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xq6wW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;serial number&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11455" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-01T09:02:19.233" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T09:02:19.233" Title="Help identify this frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21775" CreationDate="2014-06-01T16:57:33.053" Score="0" ViewCount="2710" Body="&lt;p&gt;While cleaning up our storage room I saw my dad's old bike collecting dust on a corner (he used to bike a lot before) so I asked him if I can have it and he said yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMG5w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;actual bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for my question can I transform this bike into a commuter or am I better-off selling it and buying a new commuter bike? Though I really like to keep this one for some sentimental reasons rather than to sell it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget is also limited, still finishing my college degree. I'll be using this going to my university and back, though I live in the city our roads/bicycle lanes here in Manila, Philippines are terrible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11456" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T17:47:29.140" Title="Converting a mountain bike to a urban commuter" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-06-01T18:52:31.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21774" CreationDate="2014-06-01T17:47:29.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Feelings are definitely very important, but a dual suspension bike with a two-crown fork is a difficult start for a commuter bike. Especially if your budget is limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think that you should inflate the tires well and take a ride to school to see what it's like in its current condition. If you can block suspension, that might help.  I guess if you love or hate your first ride, it'd be a part of an answer to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's neither a bliss nor a hell of a ride, you could ask a more specific question, e.g., for advice on particular problems you experience. A possible way out is to sell certain components (such as the fork) and buy new ones that would fit your purpose better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yeah, after all, it's a beautiful machine, personally I'd try hard to keep it. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4526" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T17:47:29.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-01T20:32:26.293" Score="1" ViewCount="2278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fairly new Shimano rear derailleur on a cheap department store MTB a friend gave me. Recently the derailleur (particularly the jockey wheels) have started to rub against the chassis in high gears. I tried reseating it on the hanger at a larger angle, but even as far as it will go, it just wants to spring back until it hits the chassis. The best I can get it has it with very little clearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EwEfo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n8h3t.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zoomed in so we can see the derailleur hanger (with &quot;Hole A&quot;) that is bolted to the frame. It doesn't move when the axle is loosened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dcYT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't particularly care for the paint job, but I do want it to stop hitting against the chassis and risk affecting operation. How do I fix it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11459" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-02T05:22:59.863" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T11:05:25.763" Title="How do I stop my rear derailleur from rubbing against my chassis?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21776" CreationDate="2014-06-01T21:52:08.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your chain is too slack. Get a chain breaker tool (the cheap ones are about ten bucks) and shorten your chain by about three or four links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T21:52:08.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21776" CreationDate="2014-06-01T22:28:42.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to post my comment as an answer so you don't just start taking out links  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put font and rear on the largest gears&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From there take out links&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you take out too many links then it won't have room to go on the largest path  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hanger is not really designed for that bike you might have a case of you can't take out enough links&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But not all the bad - I bet if you have the front derailleur on the bigger gear you can put the rear on the smallest - so you do have access to the tallest gear  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T22:28:42.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21783" CreationDate="2014-06-02T03:24:27.357" Score="2" ViewCount="10773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace the suspension fork on my bike with a rigid one. After much soul searching I've tentatively settled on the Surly 1x1. What's got me wrapped around the axle (pun intended!) is the axle-to-crown measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork I have now is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/bike/forks/XCT-80-26-3962.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SR Suntour SF13-XCT&lt;/a&gt;, which came stock on my Specialized mountain bike. This fork is listed as having &lt;strong&gt;80mm of travel and a 459mm total length&lt;/strong&gt;. When measuring the distance between this fork's axle &amp;amp; crown I've gotten very close to the 459mm listed on Suntour's site, which leads me to believe that the 459mm length listed by Suntour is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/forks/1x1_fork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Surly 1x1 I'm looking at&lt;/a&gt; has two versions: one &quot;corrected&quot; for suspension travel of 80mm (&lt;strong&gt;axle-to-crown length of 413mm&lt;/strong&gt;), the other &quot;corrected&quot; for suspension travel of 100mm (&lt;strong&gt;axle-to-crown length of 453mm&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of the Surly A-to-C measurements are below the 459mm that I supposedly have to put in if my geometry &amp;amp; handling are to stay the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the zip tie method allowed me to measure my &lt;strong&gt;sag as 18mm&lt;/strong&gt;. (I normally keep my fork on its highest preload setting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now, for the question itself&lt;/strong&gt;: Which of the two Surly 1x1's should I get? Should I, or should I not, take my sag into account, considering that Surly's forks appear to have been &quot;corrected&quot; for suspension travel already?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5647" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T06:02:05.760" Title="Suspension fork swap for rigid: axle-to-crown confusion" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21781" CreationDate="2014-06-02T06:02:05.760" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely you have to account for sag when measuring axle to crown distance, because that is the real geometry of the bike when it is actually being ridden. If you mention in this bike sag is 18 mm when you ride it, it should mean that your actual axle to crown distance is 459-18 = 441, thus suggesting you should use the fork corrected for 80mm travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you want to keep the geometry of the bike, particularly head tube angle and bottom bracket height (or pedal to ground clearance). Both are important. Head tube angle affects the steering response of the bike. Bottom bracket height defines how tall an object can be for you to roll over it without hitting it, and how much you can lean towards the side before the pedal hits the ground while pedaling (you should not put the &quot;inner&quot; pedal down while turning)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike with suspension fork actually changes it's geometry while riding due to the travel of the fork, and this is no trouble at all (for most riders), that means that a small variation in axle to crown distance would not terribly affect the bike handling characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, if you chose the taller fork, you'd give your bike a slacker head tube angle, making it feel a bit less responsive on the steering, which in turn means (a little) more stability at high speed, and you would gain a few millimeters on pedal clearance. If you had the option for a third fork, shorter than the ones you already described, you'd get a bike with a steeper head tube angle, which gives a more responsive steering, the bike would feel very agile, but less stable, and you would loose a little pedal clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T06:02:05.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21776" CreationDate="2014-06-02T11:05:25.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To clarify, these Shimano Tourney derailleurs have their spring-loaded pivot at a different place to where they attach to the derailleur hangar. Pivot B is not a pivot at all, and shouldn't be free to move. However, it is currently attached at the wrong angle. The angle made between the hangar and the rigid part of the derailleur should be more acute, as in this image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wzp2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Correct mounting of RD-TX55&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is a protruding tab on the derailleur's attachment point, and on the hangar itself. These tabs should be pressed against each other, such that the arrangement prevents that part of the derailleur from rotating in an anticlockwise direction relative to the hangar. I've highlighted the tabs that need to mate together in the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5n0aI.png&quot; alt=&quot;Derailleur and hangar tabs highlighted&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to fine tune the chain length and derailleur adjustment further, follow the &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_5WU0A/SI-5WU0A-001-00-ENG_v1_m56577569830701975.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano service instuctions for RD-TX55&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10272" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T11:05:25.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-02T12:16:54.110" Score="1" ViewCount="7499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm riding with Continental Gatorskin/Hardshell tyres and they are quite tough to get on the rim.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After attaching the tyre and inflating I notice there is a dip in the tyre at the point where I had to lever it on to the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried deflating and re inflating the tube and trying to adjust the seating of the rim but the dip always seems to be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice the bump when riding and am a little concerned that at higher speed a little less traction might be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping the tyre will eventually correct itself as it appears to be mishaped following the force required to get it on but might I have permanently damaged the tyre? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have similar experiences or have any solutions? OR maybe this is normal when fitting very tight tyres?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11292" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T18:53:08.073" Title="Tyre has a 'dip' in it after fitting to rim" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3349" CreationDate="2014-06-02T13:39:29.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Co-Rider app can follow a GPX file from your dropbox account and it also integrates with Ride with GPS for easy access to your saved routes. You can also drop pins and get directions to random points as well.  Voice navigation is available, and I've found it useful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/co-rider/id538095358?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/co-rider/id538095358?mt=8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T13:39:29.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21795" CreationDate="2014-06-02T15:12:28.003" Score="0" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have an older Niner Air 9 Carbon that has the original Biocentric eccentric hub.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does anyone know if the Biocentric II is compatible?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T22:26:03.743" Title="Niner Biocnetric Compatibility" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-02T15:56:36.590" Score="0" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just found out where friction occurs in my BMX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I take chain off the Outer Part and spin the rear wheel the wheel will spin for several minutes but when the Outer Part can't rotate with the rest of the wheel (when chain is on) friction is caused by the Inner Part rubbing against the Outer Part&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xZRjH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to find a replacement of the bad part(s) with the least friction? OR fix the friction IF that's a better choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are these parts called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11463" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-03T02:03:49.753" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T02:03:49.753" Title="Friction occurs in BMX Freewheel" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21785" CreationDate="2014-06-02T16:32:25.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes on tight tires the tube will get twisted inside and thus fail to inflate fully in that section. You may want to pop the tube out and do the whole thing over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T16:32:25.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21789" CreationDate="2014-06-02T16:42:10.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes that is as single speed freewheel and those two pieces should not stick&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are some serviceable freewheels (White) but they are expensive&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pretty sure you need to replace the freewheel&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Based on the rust it looks old&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you remove it from the bike and it sticks then for sure you need to replace it&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can try spraying a lubricant in the grove but most likely the bearings are shot    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A freewheel is like $30 and it takes a special tool to remove&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Take it to a bike shop&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you buy the freewheel from them the often install for free or a small fee  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or check youtube for videos on how to do it yourself&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The removal tool for a single speed is like $25 so not worth it unless you are going to do it a few times  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you are going to replace the freewheel then it is good practice to also replace the chain &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Brian stated this can also happen from a chain to tight.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chain should have a little play.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And crank the pedal a few revolutions - some times the chain can be more tight in certain positions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-02T16:55:06.780" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T16:55:06.780" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21714" CreationDate="2014-06-02T17:02:01.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like said R.Chung, the wind can dramatically change the speed, and it's impossible to predict.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my part, here's how I do for commuting in my city (so wind is blocked by building): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enter in my favorite gps the from and to, and ask for an itinary using foot, &#xA;then I take the total amount of kilometers, and I count roughly the time at 16/18/20 km/h. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;16 is without sweating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 is in a hurry...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm on a city bike, often loaded, so ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even with that simple rule, if you're lost, the time will vary :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7847" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T17:02:01.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-02T20:04:50.413" Score="1" ViewCount="607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked online, but haven't found one. Is there any sort of &quot;matrix&quot; available that puts shift lever &lt;em&gt;boss&lt;/em&gt; type on one axis and shift &lt;em&gt;lever&lt;/em&gt; on the other, and remarks on each pair's compatibility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, this would include bosses that include the following (and any others that might be useful): downtube braze on, downtube clamped on, barend &quot;pods&quot;, &quot;thumbie pods&quot;, stem-mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each type on each axis would be collapsed based on same-shape/same-size with some notes on which specific items fall into each type category.  So, something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;      Bosses:&#xA;             Shimano d/t &quot;A&quot;    Campagnolo d/t &quot;A&quot;    Paul Thumbies    ....&#xA;Levers:    ======================================================================&#xA;Shimano   |                   |                     |               |&#xA;  333     |                   |                     |               |&#xA;          |----------------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;Campagnolo|                   |                     |               |&#xA;SR &quot;A&quot;    |                   |                     |               |&#xA;          |----------------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;Simplex   |                   |                     |               |&#xA;   &quot;A&quot;    |                   |                     |               |&#xA;          |----------------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;   ...    | ...&#xA;&#xA;Bosses:&#xA;Shimano d/t &quot;A&quot;: PICTURE.  DESCRIPTION.   DIMENSIONS.  IDENTIFYING CHARACTERISTICS. ETC.&#xA;Campagnolo d/t &quot;A&quot;: PICTURE.  DESCRIPTION.   DIMENSIONS.  IDENTIFYING CHARACTERISTICS. ETC.&#xA;...&#xA;Levers:&#xA;Simplex &quot;A&quot;: etc. etc.&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T20:04:50.413" Title="Shift lever and boss (mount point) compatibility matrix" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21788" CreationDate="2014-06-02T22:26:03.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stopped by the local Niner shop and they told me the II is compatible  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T22:26:03.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21800" CreationDate="2014-06-03T13:31:12.093" Score="6" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is the chain connecting the front and rear cranks of a tandem called a &lt;em&gt;timing chain&lt;/em&gt;.  This brings to mind big-block V8s and leaky timing chain covers that plagued my younger years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the history of this term?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T14:42:48.520" Title="Why is it called a &quot;timing chain&quot;" Tags="&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21799" CreationDate="2014-06-03T14:42:48.520" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Timing chain helps keep the front and back riders pedals rotating at the same time.  Depending on your preferences you can set them as &quot;in phase&quot; where both the front and back cranks are at the same point in the rotation, or as &quot;out of phase&quot; where the front and back cranks are offset by 90 degrees. This is advantageous as when one of the riders reaches the dead point (where the cranks are vertical), the other set of cranks is at horizontal allowing good power transfer.  You can set up different levels of out of phase. You can set it up so that one rider is only a few teeth ahead of the other rider, so that both riders aren't in a dead zone, but the pedals are more or less aligned.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can even set up both riders with different size chain rings, which would allow one rider to pedal at a faster cadence than the other rider.  This presents problems when cornering, as it's hard to get the pedals into the proper position so that neither the front nor the back will hit the ground. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sources and more info:&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/tandem-cycling/267643-poll-do-you-ride-phase-out-phase-do-you-like-better.html&quot;&gt;Pedal Setup&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/tandem-cycling/267643-poll-do-you-ride-phase-out-phase-do-you-like-better.html&quot;&gt;Poll: In Phase vs. Out Of Phase&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/tandem-cycling/121324-out-phase-cranks.html&quot;&gt;Out Of Phase Cranks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T14:42:48.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4724" CreationDate="2014-06-03T16:21:12.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree with your assertion that a metal bike is better because gives you warning&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is not common that you see a slight bend prior to total failure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And a sight bend will typically result in injury also&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the fork bends and traps the wheel on the frame you are going down  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brittle failure is when it snaps and plastic deformation is when it bends.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metals can also suffer from brittle failure - especially aluminum&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A high carbon steel (designed for hardness over strength) can have brittle failure&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With loading metals fatigue and often with no visual indicator  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Titanium is the least brittle followed by steel then aluminum&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Titanium is also expensive &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct a 3 lb carbon frame is not as strong as 6 lb steel frame&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But 6 lb steel is not twice a strong &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T16:21:12.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21813" CreationDate="2014-06-03T17:05:14.643" Score="1" ViewCount="1049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need grey touch-up paint for the headtube on a 2014 Whyte T-129s. How can I find out which colour exactly to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3670" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T22:30:53.493" Title="Where can I find touch-up paint?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21804" CreationDate="2014-06-03T23:18:23.643" Score="15" ViewCount="1681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm stumped. For the last yew years I have been getting flats that look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DjE9R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tiny-hole-in-tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it's a tiny, tiny hole that can only be found by inflating the tire to twice its size or so. I know these aren't puncture flats because there is never anything in the tire, and they don't seem like pinch flats because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They never come in pairs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They happen much more frequently on my front tire even though my rear wheel has much more weight from loaded 40L Ortlieb paniers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm running between 110 - 125 PSI, and more pressure doesn't seem to reduce the rate of flats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They tend to show up when I go to get on my bike in the morning, rather than on the way or after work. (Though this doesn't really contraindicate a pinch flat, I just thought it was weird).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They seem to mainly be on the outside, although sometimes they are on the inside of the tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately they've been happening more frequently, today I had three (I found my bike flat in the morning, then tried two more patched tubes with similar flats that I had missed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are the usual gotcha's that I usually try to avoid too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch out for lips/edges on the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only use tire lever for tire removal, not replacement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put some air in the tube before putting on the wheel to avoid folds/bends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure rim tape is fully covering all spoke holes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm getting tired (pun not intended) of these, so before I buy a new (bigger) wheelset, I thought I'd call for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some more details: Mavic CXP 30 700c wheels with Continental Gatorskin 700x23c tires, 4 mile commute each way over decent roads in hot conditions.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11480" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2018-10-13T20:06:48.963" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T20:06:48.963" Title="What kind of flat is this?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21803" CreationDate="2014-06-03T23:47:02.900" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like the sort of hole you get from tiny bits of glass working their way through the tyre, then slowly cutting into the tube. I'd check the outside of the tyre for tiny cuts, and the inside for barely-detectable points poking through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This photo shows the sort of small cuts I'm talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcdEb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tyre with tiny cuts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of those had a little bit of glass or something in it once, but most of those work their way back out. The problem is that the ones that don't usually work their way in instead. If you poke in there with something like the file shown (a sharpened spoke is what many bike mechanics use) you'll sometimes find a ~2mm or smaller triangle of glass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When those work through the inside of the tyre they don't punch a hole like a nail does, they slowly cut a little slit as you see above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to avoid this is by going over your tyres every few weeks and digging out those bits of glass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that even very puncture-resistant tyres will suffer this, just less often. I've had Marathon Plus tyres puncture this way, but only once (I use those tyres a lot). &lt;a href=&quot;http://smutpedaller.blogspot.com.au/2012/08/flat-out-part-iii-tyre-liners.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This guy&lt;/a&gt; had the same problem with tyre liners. Picking the glass out is the only solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Echoing @DanielRHicks comment: one annoying possiblity is that you have a little fragment of glass or something loose inside the tyre. So every time you check the tyre you don't find it because it slides around as you rotate the tyre checking it, and every puncture is in a different place. So check for that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="10496" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T13:32:05.373" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T13:32:05.373" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21803" CreationDate="2014-06-04T00:26:21.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sure looks like puncture to me.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure you don't have something small in your tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should rotate tires anyway so give this a try.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the tires and rotate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you start getting flats on the rear the look hard at the tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get flats in the front then look hard at that rim.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the tires inside out and inspect.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wipe down the rim with a towel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these tubes you bought as a set?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Maybe bad tubes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Try a fresh set of tubes of a different brand.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are you saying bigger wheelset?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is a decent wheelset.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is not the first thing I would replace.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That rim will take larger tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with tubes and then tires.&#xA;And if you replace the tire consider something bigger than 23.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You may be only able to go to 25 based frame and rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute on Marathon 32 and don't even get one flat a year.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Have Gatorskin 25 on another bike and like the speed but would not use that for commuting.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T01:11:11.883" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T01:11:11.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2014-06-04T06:40:07.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer messenger bags. They are generally light weight, lie close to your body, and provide easy access to all materials. For example, Timbuk2's newer bags have a lightweight design, secure Velcro, and a Napoleon pocket for easy access to small envelopes and documents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one strap messenger bags have been in use for decades. There are pictures of bike messengers from the 1940's using the one strapped messenger bags. The designs have changed for a greater social appeal, but the same sturdy, secure, and efficient principals still apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11484" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T06:40:07.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12779" CreationDate="2014-06-04T06:52:51.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, nothing can truly compare to a messenger bag. However, you can definitely find a reasonable balance between quality and price. Look for something that will suit your needs as a commuter or a messenger. As a messenger myself, I find that a medium sized bag with adjustable length on the clips (for holding packages too big to actually put in the bag) will work perfectly. Try to find one on any off-brand purchasing sites like eBay, craigslist, etc. The medium sizes of Timbuk2, a brand that I personally prefer, will generally run about $70 used plus shipping. Keep in mind, messenger bags are made to be durable, so it is acceptable to buy them used. Generally, a messenger will never actually sell his bag. Value-wise, they come second to the bike, which is the messenger's livelihood, so you are really buying from the average commuter who's bag doesn't take as much of a beating, so buying a used bag will be an okay option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and happy hunting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11484" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T06:52:51.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21521" CreationDate="2014-06-04T07:04:35.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commuter style road bikes are bound to gain a little wear and tear. If you know your basic repairs, you should be fine. Also, getting your bike stolen sucks. You pour a whole bunch of money into it, and now its gone. I suggest getting three locks: a Ulock, a thin chain (one foot long), and a thick, square chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;lock your back wheel to your frame with the Ulock, lock your saddle to your frame with the thin chain, and lock your front wheel to your frame AND the bike rack/sturdy object. This basically locks down your entire bike. Keep in mind, any thief can break/pick any lock if they are determined enough, so if on a commute, make your bike look as plain as possible. Thieves know what looks expensive, so I generally advise people to look into a thin saddle cover. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, don't worry about how the weather will damage your bike, but be wise about it. If you can, keep it in a covered place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11484" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T07:04:35.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21785" CreationDate="2014-06-04T09:00:34.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to get this a lot on my old 29er with Continental commuter tyres, large rim with tight tyre made for tough work getting the tyre on and off and often got similar flat-spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the max psi first but pumping up as hard as possible can ping the tyre beading back on to the rim wall, then deflate back down to your proffered pressure. If its still reluctant you can buy rim lube type stuff (could be a risky Google that, sorry) which is basically washing up liquid, so try that. Add a bit around the tyre wall / beading while its off rim and it will help ping on when you pressure up the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Track a pump will be your friend here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11486" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T09:00:34.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21851" CreationDate="2014-06-04T11:57:59.560" Score="4" ViewCount="1345" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Scott Sub 10 (2012) got damaged during transit and requires the front sprocket replaced. I have ordered the part which has since arrived but would like some advice on how to replace this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my understand it is just a case of just removing the four pins holding the existing one in place and replacing this with the new one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything that I should be aware of?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any guides online?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the belt require adjusting? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2105" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T07:24:12.413" Title="Gates belt drive front sprocket replacement" Tags="&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;belt-drive&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16399" CreationDate="2014-06-04T13:49:38.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As previously mentioned, foot retention is essential for safe fixed-gear riding. I started off with clips and straps, but after breaking a few during hard climbs, I switched to clipless. But then I ride a long gear and really haul my bike up the steep hills around here. I definitely appreciate the security and efficiency of clipless, but it's by no means a magic bullet. I've sheared cleat bolts on climbs too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to ride brakeless, then I would definitely go with clips and straps, or a PowerGrips-type solution. I rode brakeless for about 4 years, using Time ATAC pedals. They were pretty dependable; I wouldn't trust many other pedals for brakeless riding. But I still had a few hairy moments... accidentally unclipping isn't funny. If you get slack with your skidding technique and twist your feet, you may find yourself going over the bars (as happened to me a couple of times), or worse, straight across a junction and under a bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps even more relevant: if you're riding fixed around town on a daily basis, can you really be bothered to lug around two pairs of shoes? If you're on and off the bike a lot, you're going to wear down those cleats pretty quickly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T14:20:48.950" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T14:20:48.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21802" CreationDate="2014-06-04T15:27:56.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To sum up some comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contact the dealer or manufacturer for a specific color code or name&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Search various paints based on a similar code&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some touch-up paint from an auto parts store and use that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add that if you just go with regular touch-up paint, to make sure the gloss level matches the bike (most bikes have a high-gloss clear coat to protect the finish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also reference automotive touch-up guides to get an idea of how to best apply any paint (surface prep, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T15:27:56.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10469" CreationDate="2014-06-04T15:36:15.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're mainly cycling for the commute, with the occasional &quot;off-road&quot; pleasure ride (towpaths etc. as opposed to serious trails), your main concern should be getting the correct type of bike. Worry about tyres afterwards. I'd recommend trying out a few road bikes and a few hybrids, and go with whatever feels the most comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer road bike geometry, you may have a hard time finding a modern road bike with sufficient clearance for wider off-road tyres. But I suspect a hybrid would suit you better anyway - the riding position will be a bit less aggressive, and you'll have plenty of tyre options. A wide (&gt; 25mm), puncture-resistant tyre will be your priority here. You don't need MTB-style knobblies, just something rugged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then again, if you're a confident rider, and you like to have fun riding on the limit, then it's a non-issue. I ride a fixed-gear road bike with skinny (23mm) tyres on everything. Tarmac, towpaths, grass, mud, whatever. I keep my tyres pumped and suffer very few punctures - most if not all are due to road glass slowly working through to the tube. I can't remember the last time I got a gravel puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously it's borderline bike abuse, but there's an awful lot of fun to be had fighting for grip on a slightly muddy towpath, and masses of satisfaction to be had from controlling a front wheel slip. YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T15:36:15.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21521" CreationDate="2014-06-04T15:46:06.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have commuted on bikes for the over 10 years   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few comments &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't assume the office will not have a place for bikes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In today's green environment it is good for business.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even if the office does not have a spot check close parking garages.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have to leave it out doors and it is a summer job then consider riding the 1980 Schwinn World Sport 10-speed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is a cool old bike with street cred.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have stated you have theft and the elements.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In or out your bike is going to get wet - keep is lubed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two commuters.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A $2400 that I use when I can lock in the bike room at my gym&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A $400 (used single speed) for when I have to lock in the open / outdoors  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a new bike - if it is for commuting a road bike is not the best choice in my opinion&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Any bike that will take larger tires&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For commuting go 28mm or 32mm tire width (they are more stable and durable than a 25mm)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It can be a mountain, hybrid, city, touring, or cyclocross.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cyclocross?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is built to deal with many conditions and still for speed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You get racers that are selling their old bike every season or two and get some great deals.                 Especially at the end of the season.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can pick up nice bikes that were $2000 new for $800.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Put $100 in touring tires on a cyclocross and you have great street bike that is also good road bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The down side of cyclocross is if they are designed for pure race they will not have lugs to mount racks&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are going to use it as a commuter then look for lugs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A touring bike has a similar geometry and will have lugs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thing is you don't find as good a deals on touring as you don't have racers flooding the used market.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The only thing I would avoid for commuting is a mounting bike with shocks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are dead set on a road bike still take a look at used.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is cyclocross set up as a commuter (touring tires)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0GEM3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SpecializeSigleCrossWithTouringTiresUsedAsBeaterCommuter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bike you would not think of as a commuter but this is what I use when it is a route that I am going to ride sidewalks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I am going to bar and want a stable ride home in the dark this is what I ride (it has lights now).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And it is my play mountain bike - clearly not the tires I would use for a dedicated commuter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Got this for $800 - what I am saying is there are play bikes that also make good (short distance) commuters.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcTkx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SingleSpeedMoutain&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T16:16:23.083" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T16:16:23.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10469" CreationDate="2014-06-04T18:14:06.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with the accepted answer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure it they like posting links on SO.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Look up Ashton Road Bike Party on youtube.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cylcocross is designed for speed and mixed terrain.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have a cyclocross that I have set up as what I call urban assault.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Went with 35 mm Pilot City.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It rides efficiently and can take the trails.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I use this as my play, workout, and road bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The 35 mm is a little over sized for street but it is more comfortable and stable than a 32mm.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The 35 mm to me is a step up on the trail - more traction and at mid speed can bang up roots without banging the rim compared to even a 32mm.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I know it does not seem like much but at 35mm I could start to ride it like my mountain bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A cyclocross will (should) have beefier and wider rims compared to a road bike so it will take some banging.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I am going on a long road ride then I will mount 28 mm touring tires.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Without the knobs I do not ride it in mud (but even with knobs if there was mud I would take my mountain bike).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In hard pack it does fine.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Drop offs are where a mountain bike is better - you can get your weight further back to not go over the handle bars.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't take jumps on this bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But on the other hand a mountain bike on the road won't touch it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most road bikes are limited to 25 mm tires.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yes you can off road with that but bigger is way better.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not just a traction thing - also pinch flats  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you get greats deal on used cyclocross as you get racers that get a new bikes and flood the used market.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for towpath optimized bike then look at a gravel racers&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The name describes it  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not going to put money into tubeless rims on this bike as it does not have disc.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But cyclocross with tubeless would really make a difference as could run at lower pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bWFkf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BianchiConcept&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T20:00:00.593" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T20:00:00.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20634" CreationDate="2014-06-04T18:22:09.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think old freewheels are &quot;better&quot; by default. While it's true that most of today's thread-on freewheels are junk, that doesn't promote the junk of yesteryear to &quot;desirable&quot; status. However, perhaps the median quality level was higher back in the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the days before freehubs, freewheels, like most things, ranged from the downright awful to the excellent. Regina made brilliant freewheels, as did TDC and several others, but they command stupid prices on Ebay these days. And even if you can find a nice NOS example, it will probably need a rebuild to run optimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there was a much bigger market for freewheels 30 years ago, with a higher profit margin, so manufacturers could afford to construct them well. These days it's less economically viable even to invest in quality tooling, let alone top-notch materials. In addition, today's manufacturing trends have shifted further towards light weight, at the expense of durability. Our disposable culture doesn't consider this a great loss, I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps it's fair to say that the old freewheels were built to last, but the vast majority of them, even in great condition, would be considered &quot;a bit rough&quot; by today's standards, especially when compared to modern freehub technology. Sadly there aren't any really high-end freewheels on the market today for a fair comparison...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1970s Regina = Ferrari&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1950s TDC = Jaguar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1950s Atom = Peugeot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2010s IRO = Peugeot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2010s noname = junker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T23:15:22.663" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T23:15:22.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21843" CreationDate="2014-06-04T18:33:15.150" Score="3" ViewCount="3291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to adapt a 130mm over locknut distance (OLD) hub to a 135mm OLD frame.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown suggests&lt;/a&gt; that I can just add in spacers between the cones and the locknuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon doesn't say, however, where I can find good spacers for this.  Can I just go to a bike shop and buy some 2.5mm spacers? Do 2.5mm spacers even exist? Or do I have to jury rig it with washers from the hardware store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10672" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T20:15:24.720" Title="Adjusting over locknut distance with spacers" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5084" CreationDate="2014-06-04T18:41:10.510" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disconnect your front brake. Seriously. There's no point running one in the snow and ice, and if you reach for it instinctively you'll go down!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T18:41:10.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4276" CreationDate="2014-06-04T18:47:34.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;IPBike  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0CCQQFjAA&amp;amp;url=https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.iforpowell.android.ipbike&amp;amp;ei=V2mPU9ioHIadyATsmYAI&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHkjJlXuOBOJfPTegz2P_mStPigNg&amp;amp;sig2=16C5yFRDrmQ30_wtUcv2ZA&amp;amp;bvm=bv.68235269,d.aWw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Play&lt;/a&gt; will pair with *ANT+ or BTLE devices and let you use a wheel speed sensor along with GPS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works extremely well but has a steep learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This assumes your Android phone has ANT+ connectivity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T18:47:34.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21818" CreationDate="2014-06-04T18:48:18.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much any washer that will fit will do. And if you can't find 2.5mm washers, 2mm will be fine, 1mm either way won't damage your frame. As long as it's a steel frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T20:17:19.710" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T20:17:19.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21803" CreationDate="2014-06-04T19:53:21.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;gator skins are pretty tough, i rode a pair in san francisco for over a year without a puncture, i'm not saying they are completely impervious, a direct puncture is unlikely. the sidewalls are vulnerable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tiny glass particles can work their way through the hole for the valve (i've also heard that the bead and the rim is another point of entry...), when the air is low that's when they can actually make it in there. particularly in less than dry conditions. i would run my fingernail along the inside of the tire casing and would find remarkably fine particles that i know weren't in there when i put them on my rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10351" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T19:53:21.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-04T20:11:49.133" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard of many incidents where cyclists got ticketed for something small, but I can't find the actual rules for cyclists online anywhere. Where are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8356" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T22:13:24.117" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T22:13:24.117" Title="What regulations apply to bicycles in New York City, USA" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2781" CreationDate="2014-06-04T20:15:44.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a sweet spot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Shimano Deore XT is going to be more reliable than an Alevio but an XTR is not necessarily more reliable than a Deore XT.  At a certain point it is just about weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A carbon frame is not more reliable than a steel - it is just about weight.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Aluminum and steel are priced about the same - steel is more reliable and heavier  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chain with hollow pins is not more reliable - it is just about weight.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general an $800 bike is more reliable than $600.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At that $400 - $600 range is where they tend to cheap the wheels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a $2200 bike may not be more reliable than a $1200 - it may just weigh 3 less pounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example that $1250 bike might not be more reliable than the $700 bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="5088" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T23:47:22.823" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T23:47:22.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21823" CreationDate="2014-06-04T20:23:41.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ah ha, some how I got it lol. It was a round trip, but hope help those ppl aware of this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nyc.gov/html/dot/downloads/pdf/bicyclerules_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nyc.gov/html/dot/downloads/pdf/bicyclerules_english.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8356" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T20:23:41.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21828" CreationDate="2014-06-04T21:07:27.603" Score="2" ViewCount="1960" Body="&lt;p&gt;[This turned out to be quite long question, but I couldn't find anyone discussing my particular situation - long, training-like ride followed by a workday as a developer. It seems that all considerations are intertwined.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A bit of current situation:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My company is moving (in 1-1.5 months) to new offices that will have shower facilities and that made me consider cycling to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 189cm (6'2&quot;) high weighing ~120kg (265lbs).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;10 years ago, I commuted 12km (7.5mi) for a short-term work, at the time weighing ~105kg (230lbs). Started with a 47 minute ride and got down to 18 minutes after 3 weeks (average speed of 40kph or ~25mph). That was on a 70's-era steel road bike with shifters on down tube (don't recall the maker).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary goal is to get in shape, while enjoying monetary savings in fuel costs and possibly a shorter commute (time-wise, more on that later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ride will be about 30km between two cities. It will consist of 6km/3.7mi fast (3 lanes) city road (60kph/37mph allowed, 80-90kph/50-55mph actual speeds); followed by ~20km/12.5mi of highway with shoulders and high congestion, avg. speeds of 25kph/15.5mph most of the span; ending in 4km/2.5mi of &quot;slow&quot; city traffic.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Elevation is negligible.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Weather is mostly hot, with temperatures in the 30-40C/85-105F range with 90+ percent humidity for about 6 months of the year, and about 25-30 rainy days. I won't cycle in rain/extremely windy weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The first consideration:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I know it will take several months of training before I can make that ride, and I'm planning to light up as a Christmas tree for safety/visibility. Considering that, do you think that this plan is insane and I should drop the whole idea? Can you elaborate as to why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regarding bike setup (from my research and budget):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;[I know my weight is usually on the top or over-the-top of the range for most appliances (e.g. Segway and most electric bikes are rated to 115kg max.). I haven't seen any restriction for rider weight in specs, but that maybe because there are not a lot of people with that weight buying this level of bikes?]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bike:&lt;/em&gt; I'm inclined towards &lt;code&gt;Felt Z95&lt;/code&gt; mainly because all reviews praise its comfort for long rides and its rigidity. Now, I'm not sure what constitutes a &quot;long&quot; ride - maybe the reviewers are talking about 100km/60mi rides and for my intended purposes another bike will be more suitable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pedals:&lt;/em&gt; I'm thinking of Shimano's 105 (PD-5700, steel not carbon) with SH-11 cleats due to praises of durability from reviews. The wider plate should be better for me considering my weight. Am I right about these? Should I consider something else? Better? Can I get by with something cheaper (i.e. PD-R540)? Is 6 degrees of float is enough for such long rides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fork / Saddle / Brakes / Crank / Gears / Handlebars / Shifters / Wheels:&lt;/em&gt; Stock from Felt. Is there something that i should definitely change/upgrade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Helmet, Lights and Water Bottle:&lt;/em&gt; I'd  get whatever is in the shop and fits me in size and price. Are there any essentials like air pump or tube fixing kit that I have to get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now, for the logistics part:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The biggest concern is how to go about bringing clothes for changing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do you go about bringing clothes to work?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What about the sweaty clothes form the ride - is it OK just to put them in a plastic bag till the evening ride back?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I guess wearing a day-old sweaty shirt won't be so pleasant, so how do you go about washing/drying it? Do you bring spare set for the ride back?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way I consider is driving one day of the week, bringing enough clothes for 4 days of work and leaving it in a bag in the office. This has a disadvantage of &quot;loosing&quot; one day of cycling each week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to get a rake+bag setup. I'm not sure if there are bags big enough to fit clothes (+shoes?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regarding speed:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now it takes me around 35 minutes of driving to get to/from work (door-to-door) and that's only if I get out early in the morning (06:15-0:30). If I oversleep and get out at 07:30-08:00 it might take me 50-70 minutes of slow and annoying driving.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Taking into account avg. speed of 40kph/25mph, I can make this ride in about 45 minutes, regardless of time of day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is: am I right in taking into account avg. speed of 40kph/25mph? Or, am I too optimistic and for these distances the actual speed will be lower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;EDIT:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, thanks for all the help - in the answers and here in comments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone coming here from a search - read both answers below, a lot of good and practical advice there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is indeed a monster question, but during my research I haven't found anyone in my situation. I suspected that there are people with similar experiences, but it's not talked much about. The questions usually divide into two categories - people that commute through the city at 10mph max in full business-ready attire; and people that train for fitness/competition.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My situation, of training-like ride followed by a work day and the logistics + gear required for that - seemed to merit a separate question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that there's a need for more answers, the two answers below (separate and, especially, combined) are fully encompassing the breath of the question. Nonetheless, I'd like to have the ability to edit it further after I get the bike and have more experience. I'd like to be able to give feedback back to the community on what worked for me, how I managed different aspects of the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I'm  a newcomer here, so  I'd leave it to moderators to decide if they prefer to close the question, leave it on hold, to make a wiki or something else. But I do feel that there are a lot of tips regarding a very specific (niche?) set of boundaries that are not easily found in the great expanses of the internet and thus it would be beneficial to,, at least, keep it available for future searches (i.e. not deleted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11493" LastEditorUserId="11493" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T21:46:37.933" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T23:14:02.020" Title="Long commute (~30km/18.5mi) considerations/logistics" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-06-04T23:25:17.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21826" CreationDate="2014-06-04T21:50:56.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute on a bike&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For a while I commuted that far but I lived in north and only in the summer months &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not insane.  Exercise and you arrive with a clear head.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 265 I that is not the bike I would recommend&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is a lightweight bike more for speed  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a more durable reliable bike - yes it is going to be a few pounds heavier  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That bike does not have mounts for racks&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You want a nice rack that is going to hold in place&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cloths in a pack are hot and even a few pounds on you shoulders is tiring&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can get racks and bags big enough for camping&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not cheap but I like Ortleib&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And I go with a front rack to get better weight distribution  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wearing the same clothes back never bothered me.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A bulky sweat shirt is not a good selection in the first place.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You should only be sweating out light weight stuff.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are wearing a jacket then unzip it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Get some high end gear - the new active wear breathable but water resistant is great&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You are going to get caught in the rain - carry rain jacket every day &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I had to dress up I would just leave 3 slacks, 1 suit, and 5 shirts and a dozen ties at the office and then take them to cleaners at the office.  Rotate out every once in a while.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure leave shoes at the office!  You can find two pair of shoes that will go with about everything.  Shoes are heavy and bulky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go with a steel bike that will take like 28mm or 32mm tires.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is going to be a more comfortable reliable ride.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So an extra 3 minutes for rolling resistance - it is better than a 20 minute flat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even flat I think I would go gears but single speed is an option.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is a good length commute - you are going to have head / tail winds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You are going to get stronger and some days you are just going to feel stronger  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lights - light it up.  Commute drivers are the worse.  Put $200 into lights.  Leave a charger at the office.   Leave some cheaper spare lights at the office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for time I would make a dry run (even if you just go 1/2 way and return).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you got your old commute to 25 mph then great.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is a pretty good speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not as sexy nor as fast but this is more of a bike I would recommend.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker/bike_specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker/bike_specs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is going to be 5 lbs heavier - but dude you are 265.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also a beefier bike than you need and 18 miles is not a long single ride but over a week you are going to spend some time in the saddle&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is a designed to handle a load&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is my main commuter (also have cheaper single speed but I only commute 6 miles)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have mine set up with two smaller bags up font&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One is the stuff for that day and the other is the emergency / repair essentials&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/bikes/2014_vaya_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://salsacycles.com/bikes/2014_vaya_2&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T02:15:34.653" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T02:15:34.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21826" CreationDate="2014-06-04T22:12:37.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a monster question, I'll attempt to address some of it below. I'm sorry if I miss some of your points, but you'll appreciate it is quite difficult to pick them all out. Hopefully you'll find the things I do address vaguely helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First of all it is not at all an insane idea, in fact it sounds like a superb idea if one of your goals is fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'd say straight away that probably one of your pre-requisites will be to have access to a shower at (or near) work, which you can use after your morning ride. The logistics of clothing can be easily sorted, but the smell of sweat will be unpleasant for your colleagues.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;So, 30km on tarmac. Not a problem, per se. But you will do well to get 40 km/h, certainly not at first. You'd maybe expect to do it in 90 minutes (20km/h), faster as you get fitter. But that all depends on your fitness. So the pre-requisite for attempting the ride in the first place would be that you could handle that kind of distance. (Incidentally, when people talk about &quot;long&quot;, they're probably talking 100+ km (ballpark), 30km is peanuts.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since you're riding tarmac and a fair distance, I'd suggest a road bike or (since you say it is flat) a single-speed. As regards the bike you mention....it will probably be fine but you should go by fit and test the thing - if you can talk someone into letting you have it for a couple of hours road test, all the better. There are plenty of questions on here about how to choose a bike. In general you get what you pay for (Felts are a very good name so would assume they don't come cheap) so you should not need to upgrade any parts, especially at first - you can do upgrades bit by bit when you have a better idea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pedals - road bikes are generally sold without pedals, but by asking about 105s etc you may be getting bogged down in too much detail right now. The big decision you will need to make is between clipless, clips or flat pedals. Many road cyclist swear by clipless pedals, citing greater efficiency, although there are contradicting arguments in this area. One real thing you should consider is that part of your journey is in heavy traffic, where you will encounter scenarios where you will need to stop quickly. This can be difficult using clipless pedals, until you are practised. You might decide that flat pedals are safer in the first instance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As regards what you need to carry. Imagine you have a puncture 15km into your ride. Or your chain snaps. Think about how you'd handle that and ask the question again. Yes, you need to be self sufficient and carry a toolkit. Also useful to carry a few first aid bits and bobs. But again I think there are other questions on here about what items you should carry on a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From the previous point, it should be obvious that you're going to need to carry things. How are you going to do that? Panniers? This will dictate the bike you get, since some cannot carry panniers. Rucksack? Remember its 30km and 30 degrees, you'll get hot. I opted for a bumbag, which went around my waist. This allowed my to use quite a fast bike, and kept my back free, but had the drawback of very limited space to carry things.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lights and helmet. Even if its not dark, lights can be useful in the rain. Or you decide to work late and are suddenly riding an hour later than usual. Make sure you when you go out in the morning that your lights have enough charge to last both journeys (or that you can charge them at work). Helmets are a personal thing - I never ride without one, but other people have other thoughts. If you go for one, make sure it has the relevant safety stickers (I can't imagine a bike shop selling one that didn't.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;So you arrive at work. What I used to do was to keep trousers, shoes etc. at work, with the intention of riding as lightly as possible. So the only &quot;work&quot; clothes I carried on a daily basis were a shirt and some underwear. (Of course every so often I had to take the trousers home to wash.) Also if you're prepared to buy multiple shirts/trousers you could travel lighter still and find a laundry near work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As regards the return trip, the good news is that you have all day to eat as much as you want to build up your energy levels. Trust me, riding these distances you will still lose weight. So the return trip is do-able, again provided you can handle the distance in the first place. If you didn't already, find out about what foods are good to eat to keep your energy levels up (crisps, chocolate etc.) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cycling clothing can be an issue, not so much from the smell but if you get it wet on the way in. Anything lycra would probably dry during the day, but drying socks and shoes can be difficult. If you have access to a dry room, that's great. Otherwise you might need to improvise...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea, if you can, to keep some rudimentary tools at work. I used to keep a couple of spare tubes, a track pump (so much easier than a hand pump) and a decent chain link tool (again, easier than one I'd carry in my toolbag)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, regarding tiredness, try and put yourself in the position where you don't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to use the bike. You could bike and car on alternate days, for example, until you get fit enough that you don't feel tired. The first year I commuted I'd do Mon, Tue on the bike, Wed in the car, then Thu and Fri on the bike again. Basically, whatever works for you is cool - listen to your body.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monster answer! Sore finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T23:14:02.020" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T23:14:02.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-04T23:05:05.197" Score="2" ViewCount="1299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty handy with bicycles, but I'm a little stumped on this one. Have a 90s Cannondale SR800 which is solid other than the back wheel was angled to the left side of the chainstays. Ridable, but you can tell if you try to ride it without any hands. Pulled everything apart back there and discovered that the drive side (right) end of the skewer was bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also double checked and when the axle sits properly all the way in the dropouts that the wheel is aligned as it should be so I'm pretty sure the frame isn't bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I assume the bad behavior was due to the bent skewer. Ordered a new one. Clamped everything down, and realized that the issue is actually that the axle will shift when enough force is applied to the chain when pedaling hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assumed I just needed to clamp the skewer down harder, but the same issue happened and you can hear a pop from the back of the bike when it shifts. I clamped it down a little harder and the axle movement happened again and this time bent the end of the new skewer on the right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dropouts are a slightly weird design where they are angled down and forward at roughly 130 degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the bike is missing a washer or something similar on the axle that's causing it not to clamp down properly. Currently the axle is just sitting in the dropouts with no extra hardware and it seems pretty snug in there. The same amount of axle is protruding on both sides of the back hub as well and I'd say each end is covering about 75% of the dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11497" LastEditorUserId="11497" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T23:10:13.673" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T01:10:09.340" Title="Road Bike Bending Rear Skewers" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;&lt;skewer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21829" CreationDate="2014-06-04T23:43:10.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there's more wrong than you've spotted. Unless there's a chunk missing from the end of the axle or the dropout you shouldn't get any  movement under power or not. Bending a QR skewer is not easy to do, which suggests that there's a lot of force being applied, and it's obviously being applied where it shouldn't be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of that model, and the rear dropouts don't look unusual at all IMO. I'm not a fan of the 5cm long unsupported rear extension, but it can be made to work (obviously enough):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VtqEK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cannondale SR800&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest looking for cracks in the frame, ideally by getting someone else who can sit on the bike and hold the brakes while pushing on the cranks. Wipe it clean, then get down and look for cracks opening up as they put pressure on the cranks and lean back and forth. The dropouts moving will definitely bend a QR skewer. And shortly dump you on the road, BTW, when the frame breaks. Look especially around both dropouts, but also the whole rear triangle. A seatstay breaking loose at the top could possibly cause this problem too (very unlikely but possible). The fix is, obviously, a new frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to look for is a chunk knocked off the front inside corner of the dropout. If the axle can grind into there under power that could also produce the problem you see. The half-arse &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; for that is to move the axle right in the wheel so there's more poking out on that side. Which will work after a fashion for a while. The real solution is to replace the frame, and on a bike that old, that really means replacing the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: bringing discussion from comments up into the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matt says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the drive side dropout is definitely more chewed up (axle can move horizontally about 1mm) than the left side is which doesn't move at all. I checked to see if the frame was bent at all with the string method and it was exactly correct. Couldn't find any cracks either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How insane would it be to have someone add some aluminum (fill in a little bit of the dropout) and then grind it back out to spec?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that the frame was heat treated after it was welded together. So when you weld it again you're changing both the alloy and the heat treatment. As a rule what you get is both softer in some places and more brittle in others (Murphy's Law says it will be soft where it's vulnerable to abrasion and brittle where it flexes). Even so, that is definitely worth trying when the alternative is throwing away the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst failure mode is likely that dropout breaking off the frame, which will probably shove the wheel into the frame and you'll skid to a halt. So it's relatively survivable as such things go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A buddy who I would trust on this said that JB Weld there is worth trying&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any kind of epoxy or filler is worth a try because it's cheap and reversible. But those fillers will be softer than even the original aluminium, so they will be ground away faster then ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach would be filing a little off the inside surface of the dropout to make space and gluing a steel plate in place, just because steel is harder than JBWeld. If you have access to basic metalworking tools and advice that's probably a better idea. Gluing steel to aluminium can be done, but use a specialist adhesive rather than generic &amp;quot;superglue&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is the aluminium welding solution. Remember that the seat stays are thin-wall hollow tubes and discourage the guy from welding to them, maybe focus just on bulking up the dropout. I'm not an aluminium-working guy, so I'm just suggesting that because I've seen some pretty ugly &amp;quot;add lots of metal&amp;quot; fixes that break because they're transferring stress to places that are not designed for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T01:10:09.340" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28931" CreationDate="2014-06-05T02:27:45.007" Score="2" ViewCount="3234" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its been 1 month since I have bought my new MTB (Kross globate 1.1) with 18 gears (shimano)..&#xA;Now the problem is chain has slipped twice while riding. First time my speed was around 25kph and second time it was low around 15kph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And another point to notice is that my gears are not working properly... chain does not move to other sprocket when I change my gear from rear 6 to rear 5 or vice versa, they start changing afterwards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10854" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T05:42:33.803" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T08:53:18.043" Title="Gears jumping/slipping from the rear cogset on a new bike" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21834" CreationDate="2014-06-05T07:12:22.460" Score="12" ViewCount="4215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received a GMC Denali road bike today, and it doesn't look like the pictures displayed online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the front tire overlaps pedal, and I found it very dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kOOSw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, is this normal? Or should I get a refund?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11498" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T14:58:32.530" Title="Are pedal overlap bikes normal?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21833" CreationDate="2014-06-05T07:23:08.623" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The fork is fitted the wrong way around.&lt;/strong&gt; The brake caliper should be in front of the fork, not behind it. The way it is, the bike will be very, very hard to ride because of the negative rake, making it very nervous. The negative rake is also the reason for the pedal overlap. Normally, you should &lt;strong&gt;at most&lt;/strong&gt; get some toe overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosen the bolt in the top of the stem, turn the fork around 180 degrees (it will only go clockwise because of the brake cable to the front brake) and tighten the bolt when the stem and wheel are aligned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to @MichaelT, here's a picture of how the fork is supposed to look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FzqJY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastEditorUserId="3186" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T14:58:32.530" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T14:58:32.530" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21836" CreationDate="2014-06-05T08:43:39.787" Score="3" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old racer (1994 Specialized Epic Allez - lugged carbon) that's in pretty good shape. I brought it to an LBS that's got a pretty good reputation and that I've used before, to change the chain and look at the front crankset as it was making a weird noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I come to pick it up they have changed the whole crankset, chainwheels and all. I used to have a 34-50 (or so - I can't remember the details), and now the larger wheel is definitely bigger (52?). In theory I don't mind, as I was missing a higher gear for the flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's one problem... My chain is not long enough to use the largest chainring in front while on the largest cog at the back. I know that it's not 'the done thing' to use diagonal gears like that, but I did get into that combination by mistake yesterday, and was rather shocked when everything just got stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a dangerous combination? Will I at some time by mistake get into the 'wrong' gear and by stamping on the pedals ruin the derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I simply learn never to use that combination of gears? And instead be happy that I now have an even higher gear for those nice long slightly downhill stretches? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T10:24:19.373" Title="Will I snap my derailleur? (too large front chainwheel)" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21835" CreationDate="2014-06-05T10:24:19.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested in the comment above, I would take it back and ask them to add a few more links. It's totally negligent of your LBS to fit a chain that cannot accommodate every combination of gears, however silly. There's always a chance you can fumble a shift and end up locking the drivetrain, as you've already experienced. This is definitely dangerous - if the pedals suddenly lock up and surprise you, you could crash. Another possibility is that if you keep pedalling, the rear mech will be pulled into the spokes, trashing both mech and wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also an outside chance that with the new, larger chainring, you have exceeded the take-up capacity of the derailleur - meaning that adding links will result in a slightly slack chain in certain other combinations of gears. This is less of a problem, but bear in mind your chain may jump off if you run the small ring with a small sprocket on a bumpy road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T10:24:19.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21767" CreationDate="2014-06-05T12:34:43.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're willing to accept 5 gears, it's really not that difficult. The main issue is finding a hub that's narrow enough to fit the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sturmey Archer make a wide-range 5-speed geared hub, with or without coaster brake, with 120mm OLD spacing. There used to be a 5-speed SRAM hub with 122mm (?) OLD, but it might be a job to track one down. If it's a steel frame with thin stays, you have a couple more mm of leeway. But most hub gears are 135mm OLD. Depending on the hub, it may be possible to remove axle spacers, but don't bet on it... anti-rotation washers don't count; they mustn't be removed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your current frame is a conversion, you may have a few cable-routing headaches too (although clamp-on cable guides aren't difficult to find).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only really makes sense if you love the frame. Part exchange would probably be your best bet, but if you have a good reason to keep the bike then I say go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My partner is very short (5'), and standover height is an issue, so she rides a kids' Fuji track. The cost of the Fuji, plus that of building a new wheel around the SA hub, was significantly lower than any WSD we could find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Afterthought: A cheap and good way&lt;/strong&gt; (albeit one that requires some tinkering, swearing, and an awful lot of luck):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-speeds from the 50s tended to be 120mm OLD, so you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to swap out the SS freewheel for an old-fashioned thread-on 5-speed model. There are quite a few caveats, however. For starters you'll need a fairly narrow hub shell. Then you'll need enough free threads on the axle to shuffle the cones and locknuts off to one side, so there's enough axle showing to fit the wheel securely. Then you'll need to re-dish the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you'll just need a rear mech with a bolt-on hanger claw (assuming the frame doesn't have a threaded hanger on the dropout). If you're friendly with a local bike shop / junkyard, you might be able to blag these bits and pieces for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T12:44:57.460" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T12:44:57.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21767" CreationDate="2014-06-05T13:11:14.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Internal Gear Hubs might be the only viable solution, But still as it was pointed out there might be few problems concerning cabling, especially without major alterations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10653" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T13:11:14.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20353" CreationDate="2014-06-05T13:11:21.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The accepted answer fails to point out that skidding is &lt;strong&gt;less&lt;/strong&gt; effective at slowing the bike than not skidding. To stop a brakeless fixie quickly, the rider must shift their weight backwards as far as possible (to help prevent loss of traction, as weight moves forwards under braking), while resisting the pedals' rotation as hard as they can, &lt;strong&gt;without&lt;/strong&gt; locking up the rear wheel. Rolling friction &gt; sliding friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heavier the rider, the more difficult it is to stop - there is more momentum to resist. Also, the longer the gearing, the less mechanical advantage your legs have to resist the pedals; again it is more difficult to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with manageable gearing (i.e. NOT track ratios!), and good leg muscles and technique, the limiting factor becomes tyre adhesion. Where I live there are hills on which I can only stop with brand-new racing tyres. Worn tyres or harder compounds just give up and skid!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T13:11:21.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23517" CreationDate="2014-06-05T13:24:57.733" Score="2" ViewCount="2666" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one were to take a single-speed flip-flop hub, and fit two identical freewheels, and couple them to two identical chainrings (i.e. two drive-side cranks, one on each side of the bike), you would have the world's heaviest and least efficient fixed-gear drivetrain. &lt;strong&gt;One freewheel coasts while the other drives.&lt;/strong&gt; (The left-hand pedal would have to be fitted with a right-handed axle, and thread-lock used to prevent it unscrewing due to precession.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why anybody would want to do it is beyond me, but I am certain that this would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, bear with me here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if one were to do the same thing, but with a slightly larger chainring on the drive side, and a slightly larger freewheel on the non-drive side? (Obviously magic ratios would have to be selected for identical chain lengths.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this provide a long gear for high top speed, yet provide a shorter gear for less strenuous leg-braking? Or would the freewheels somehow skip and bind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T08:26:48.190" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:56:38.033" Title="Theoretical question about double drivetrain (both-sides drive)" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21861" CreationDate="2014-06-05T14:27:07.200" Score="0" ViewCount="1148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2 month old Cannondale Evo Supersix.  When I take it over a rough patch of road (far too many of these in Wiltshire!) there is a loud noise coming from the forks - it's obviously caused by the vibrations, but it sounds really unhealthy!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The noise is like a loud.. chattering I guess.  Not chattering in the braking sense though - it happens no matter what braking activity is going on.  It's a bit hollow sounding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What might be causing this?  And is there any way of preventing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastEditorUserId="9031" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T15:30:46.417" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T16:44:19.060" Title="Carbon Fork Noise" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-05T15:30:35.653" Score="2" ViewCount="750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike from Circa 2003 and it currently boasts an ITM Millenium stem. The stem is a bit long for my liking at around 130mm and I was thinking of replacing it with a shorter one for a slightly more upright riding position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a feeling my bars however are of clamping diameter 25.4 mm, although they may be 26mm as it is an Italian bike (ITM bars too). Shopping around I notice that pretty much all new stems are of the oversize 31.8 mm clamping diameter so I assume they won't fit my bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I get around this problem? I heard one could get shims to thicken the bars at the clamping point but sourcing them seems to be tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T16:47:10.860" Title="Replacing stem on non-oversize bars" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21818" CreationDate="2014-06-05T15:59:49.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have figured out two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The less elegant option is just putting some washers on the end of your axle, such that they lie between your locknut and the dropout when the wheel is installed.  You have to fiddle with the washers every time you take off your wheel, but they will do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to avoid that, you have to put them inside the locknut.  If your wheel is such that the bottom of the locknut is outside of your cassette or freewheel - i.e. above your lockring, if you have a cassette - you can just put a washer between your locknut and cone.  If the bottom of the locknut is not exposed, you may be able to still put in a washer, but it may block the splined locknut/freewheel remover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, you have to use a part that is specially made for the task, usually called &quot;axle spacers&quot;.  You can find them on the internet by searching for &quot;bicycle axle spacers&quot;, and they come in a bunch of sizes down to 0.5mm, so you should be able to find the perfect combination for your setup.  You can put these between your locknut and your cone, and they will leave room for inserting the splined freewheel/lockring remover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10672" LastEditorUserId="10672" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T15:36:28.793" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T15:36:28.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21227" CreationDate="2014-06-05T16:24:47.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the deformation where the tire is in contact with the ground is NOT space lost.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Only part of the deformation represents space lost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I push in a perfectly round balloon it will deform to a different shape.  The volume in the balloon will go down and the pressure up.  But the decrease in volume is far less then the volume displaced by my hand.  Yes a balloon is elastic and will expand.  This is true for even an inelastic balloon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under no load a tire is round.  This is not by chance.  The tire has a fixed amount of material. The tire will assume a shape that creates the largest volume for a fixed amount of material - a circle.  Under the operating range we are examining the circumference of the tire does not change - the tire does not stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under load the tire deforms to a different shape - an ellipse.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is not a perfect ellipse but pretty close.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not all the area displaced by the contact area is lost.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For a fixed amount of material an ellipse does not create as much volume.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The space lost is circle minus ellipse.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equation volume for the of a circle is:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;π r²&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since the circumference (material) of the tire is constant should use circumference c&lt;br&gt;&#xA;c²/4π&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The equation for the volume of an ellipse is&lt;br&gt;&#xA;π r1 r2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The circumference (perimeter) of an ellipse is complex so will just assume (r1 + r2)/2 = r  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume under load the tire displaces to r2 = 2r1 at the point of maximum displacement.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Height reduced by 1/3 at the maximum point of displacement.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The ratio (at maximum point of displacement) is:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;π r1 r2 / π r²&lt;br&gt;&#xA;r1 r2 / r²&lt;br&gt;&#xA;r1 * 2r1 / ((r1 + 2r1)/2)²&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 r1² / (3r1 / 2)²&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 r1² / r1²  * (3/2)²&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 / (3/2)²&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 / (3² / 2²)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 * 2² / 3²&lt;br&gt;&#xA;8 / 9   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So roughly a 10% loss of volume at the point of maximum displacement.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Over the length of the patch with ground a (nominal) average of 17 / 18.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For r2 = 2 r1 the length of the patch with the ground is about 2 r  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 700 / 25  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( 50*17/18 + (700π - 50) ) / 700π&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(700π - 50 (1 - 17/18) ) / 700π&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(700π - 50/18) / 700π&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 - (50 / (18 * 700π))&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 - .001263&lt;br&gt;&#xA;.998738  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressure increases inversely to volume&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So a pressure increase of&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1.001264729&#xA;00.13%  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets look at a patch of 50mm X 25mm&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5*2.5 / (2.54)² * 100 psi = 193 lb &#xA;If I put 200 lbs on a 700 X 25 at 100 psi that patch size and height reduced by 1/3 seems about right.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A 200 pound force increasing pressure by 00.12% seems about right.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize I Moz looks at it from all the displacement is lost.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If only part of the displacement is lost then the my number should be smaller than his.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I did not review his math.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not trying to prove him wrong - this is just how I look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T20:56:48.580" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T20:56:48.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21842" CreationDate="2014-06-05T16:47:10.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;25.4 ( or one inch ) is almost always an MTB handlebar diameter or a very old cheap bike. From 2003 and of good quality, it is almost certainly a 26mm handlebar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are parts of the bike you can bodge without much concern and parts you can't. Anything in the fork/headset/handlebar area is not something you should try and &quot;make work&quot;. If it goes wrong, you'll crash hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should still be able to find 26mm stems if you look hard enough. Here is a good source. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/stems/threadless-stems.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/stems/threadless-stems.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also sell the appropriate shims to use your bar with a 31.8 stem, but if it were my bike, I'd just pony up for a new 31.8 handlebar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T16:47:10.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-05T17:34:23.430" Score="6" ViewCount="17581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm buying new freewheel and noticed that not every freewheel can be screwed onto my hub because they have different thread sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For example:&lt;/em&gt; I've found the following thread size specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;M30x1&#xA;M35x1&#xA;&quot;big&quot; 1,37&quot; about 34.8mm&#xA;1.375&quot; x 24 tpi&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that some type can only use 16 or higher tooth so in case it is important, my current hub has a 16 or 18 tooth bmx freewheel screwed on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;How many are there and what are they called properly?&#xA;Will any work on some other type?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11463" LastEditorUserId="11463" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T18:36:09.953" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T10:07:44.823" Title="How many freewheel thread sizes are there?" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-05T18:32:41.067" Score="1" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just installed a brand new Ultegra 6600 crank/bb on my brand new frame. Everything is fine and properly installed, but the crank doesn't rotate as freely as a square taper BB. The bike is not yet ready to be ridden waiting for some parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the bb break down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11509" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T01:21:01.393" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T01:21:01.393" Title="Are Hollowtech II bottom bracket normal?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-05T20:55:54.457" Score="1" ViewCount="2438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this will be different for all headsets, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Tange Levin headset. The headset is starting to show wear: the fork sticks at regular intervals through its turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've inspected the races and they don't show any visible sign of deformation. Is it possible that only the ball bearings have deformed and that the races are fine? Is it worthwhile to order replacement bearings and reassembling the bike? Has anybody had success doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T21:53:11.673" Title="Headest: replace bearings or entire headset" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-05T21:22:35.583" Score="1" ViewCount="2321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm increasingly riding long-distance randonees/audaxes and I'm pretty confident I can fix most simple things which might go wrong with the bike. However, I've never done anything with a chain apart from clean it and would like to be prepared enough to be able to effect some kind of repair if it broke, even if I ended up single-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an 11-speed Campagnolo Chorus chain. I'm considering getting &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/review/68127-lezyne-chain-drive-11-speed-chain-tool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this chain tool&lt;/a&gt;, but what spare pins or other kit would I need? I'd prefer not to carry a whole spare chain due to the weight and space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T00:07:01.410" Title="Tools and spares needed to repair a chain on the road" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;randonneuring&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21848" CreationDate="2014-06-05T21:53:11.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not be able to see it, but it's pretty likely the races are damaged at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick I've had luck with over the years is to replace the caged bearings with loose bearings. If that doesn't work, you can try using the next size up bearing. Both these tricks move the bearing contacts to different spots and can help a lot with indexing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See Sheldon's page for more headset maintenance tricks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loose bearings are pretty cheap and a whole lot easier than replacing the headset. &#xA;You can get a bag of 25 bearings for $5. Worth trying IMHO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T21:53:11.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21811" CreationDate="2014-06-05T21:58:38.547" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm Ryan with Gates Carbon Drive.  The fix is not difficult, but there are a couple of things that I would recommend.  Simply removing the 4 chainring bolts is not the best course of action.  I would recommend removing the rear wheel from the dropout.  If you are unsure about this, we have put together a video here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatescarbondrive.com/tech/resources&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.gatescarbondrive.com/tech/resources&lt;/a&gt; It's the 5/5 video.  Once you remove the rear wheel, place the belt around the bottom bracket, and remove those 4 chainring bolts.  There is a special tool used to hold the back of the bolts from turning while you loosen the front part.  While it may not be necessary to use this tool, please be careful if you use anything else.  Mount the new sprocket, center the sprocket on the spider as much as possible, as this will reduce the amount of tight and slack spots you will get, and then torque the bolts as stated by the crank or bolt manufacturer.  Replace the belt on the front sprocket, and then on the rear sprocket.  With the belt on the rear sprocket, place the wheel back in the dropout.  Make sure that the wheel is fully seated in the dropout, it may help to place weight on the seat to make this happen.  If you can get the wheel to fully seat in the dropout, re-tighten the axle nuts, and reconnect the hub - refer to the video above for detailed instructions.  If you can't get the wheel to fully seat, you may need to play with the EBB to loosen the belt.  After this, you will need to readjust both tension and alignment.  Either way, after you have re-installed the rear wheel, make sure that the belt has proper tension and alignment before riding.  If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact.  You can find our phone and email info on our website.  If you are at all uncomfortable, please take your bike to a local shop.  Better safe than sorry.  Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Ryan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11511" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T21:58:38.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21849" CreationDate="2014-06-05T22:01:54.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be fine with a chain tool and maybe an extra few links which you have leftover after you installed it.  You technically don't need extra pins as you can shorten the chain, put it in the small ring up front and you'll still have the full range of gears in the back to get home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally you should replace the chain and the rear cassette at the same time.  If you are experiencing some skipping in the higher gears (the small rings of the cassette) that is most likely the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to rain on the parade, but if you are truly getting into Randonees riding in the U.S. campy 11 speed is not the way to go.  You run a high risk of bike shops in rural areas not having replacement parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11510" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T22:01:54.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21847" CreationDate="2014-06-05T22:05:39.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have the BB installed properly (no cross threading) it is normal to have a little bit of resistance when they are new.  But honestly they don't feel as &quot;free&quot; as a square taper BB because of the resistance from the bearing seals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be sure to check the drive side cup of the BB every 3-6 months.  If you ride in wet conditions aim more for the 3 month side.  That cup has a tendency to seize up.  It happens with all steel ball outboard/hollowtech BB's and the only answer is a ceramic bearing model or a Chris King BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11510" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T22:05:39.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21864" CreationDate="2014-06-05T22:09:01.870" Score="2" ViewCount="864" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone suggested recently that rather than using a fatter tyre in my search for fewer flats, I could use bigger wheels. Specifically, that switching from 700c to 27&quot; (622 to 630) would make a detectable difference. Since I currently use 406 wheels on most of my bikes, switching to even 622 wheels would obviously make a huge difference... if this is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the mechanism for the larger wheel getting fewer flats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify: I can't think of a mechanism, and I doubt that this theory is correct. So answers that talk about other causes are off topic, and if you want to show that this is wrong you need to demonstrate that using research or logic. I &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; think this theory is wrong, what I want are facts. And FWIW, changing from ISO 406 wheels to 622 or 630 means a complete change of bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T02:51:58.573" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T15:00:44.960" Title="Is a bigger wheel likely to get fewer flats?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21849" CreationDate="2014-06-05T22:10:35.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing your chain at regular intervals is by far the best maintenance money you can spend on a bike. Generally what goes wrong with a chain is a &quot;stuck link&quot; and &#xA;the chain tool you have can fix that. Either by slightly tweaking the pin to loosen the link or by taking the link out altogether. If you do need to take a link or two out, avoid attempting to use the big/big gears. Generally there is no reason to carry a complete spare chain, only enough stuff to remove a link or two&#xA;and put the chain back together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some chains require special replacement pins. Check with the manufacturer. Exactly what's required varies between 9,10,and 11 speed chains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For chains that have quick links, the quick links can break. Carry a spare quick link. You can use this to make repairs quick and simple. You can have more than one quick link in a chain w/o problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the new narrower chains, I am not confident about reseting existing pins using any chain tool that you can carry on a bike. This is why I only use chains that have a reusable quicklink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd think about switching to a chain like this in your case. Makes any on road repairs much simpler. However, I don't know of any 11 spd chain links that are &#xA;reusable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a bit more reading on 11 spd chains and I would definitely add a few spare used master links to your kit. KMC makes them and from what I read the old school method of pushing the pin back in just not safe with the very thin plates used to get chains narrow enough for 11 spd. KMC claims their quick links will work with any 11 speed chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T01:14:45.960" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T01:14:45.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21854" CreationDate="2014-06-05T23:32:04.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seriously doubt wheel size has anything to do with puncture or flat prevention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common causes for flats are sharp objects, or in the case of snake bites, a pressure too low for the activity (type of riding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of sharp objects, they penetrate the tire casing because, for a moment, all the weight applied to the wheel is pressed against a tiny surface (for example a nail's tip), and the pressure surpasses the tire's structural resistance. Remember pressure is measured in force per area unit, so lets say you apply 50 pounds of weight to the front tire, and that the tire is a slick one inflated to 50 psi (pounds per square inch). Now the contact patch on a smooth surface will have roughly one square inch. Now roll the tire over a sharp nail tip, of surface (1/32 x 1/32 = 0.00098) square inch. This is a pressure equivalent to 51,200 psi (50/((1/32)^2). This tremendous pressure is enough to break the tire casing structure, so the object punctures it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you change the size of the wheel, or only the tire size and apply the same 50 pounds of weight over the same nail, the pressure on the contact point will still be the same, since the nail's size is unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of wheel size, many other variables can make a tire more or less puncture prone, for example thickness, thread count, rubber grade, structure. Some tires are purposely made to be puncture resistant, others are just like a thick(ish) balloon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tires can escape puncture situation just because circumstances, for example a knobby tire that is penetrated by a sharp but short object. The object is so small that it doesn't get to the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of snake bites (a.k.a. Pinch flats), thick and hard casings tend to resist a little more, but they are not invincible. Always check tire air pressure before riding, and if you ride low pressure intentionally, ride accordingly: don't hit sharp edges and absorb shock with your arms and legs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are suffering constant punctures, consider buying puncture proof tubes or specially belted tires, but also examine your path choices. If you are riding on the street, don't ride the gutter, because there is where all the trash accumulates (shredded glass, wire from overly worn car tires, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way: the effective size difference between 700c and 27&quot; is only 4 millimeters, check Sheldon Brown's article on tire sizing: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;enter link description here&lt;/a&gt;. Changing a bike wheel size may just be a hassle, with no benefit at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T23:41:17.003" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T23:41:17.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21849" CreationDate="2014-06-05T23:47:21.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would probably work best is a &quot;chain breaker&quot; similar to the one in your link, plus several inches of chain, plus a couple of &quot;repair links&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New chains are generally several inches longer than needed, so anyone who replaces chains regularly is apt to have some spare segments -- ask your buddies or go begging at a bike shop.  Worst case a few inches of old (but not totally worn out) chain will work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The repair links are made by several companies (SRAM, KMC, Wippermann, et al) and are &quot;snap together&quot;, so you don't have to develop (and somehow maintain) the nontrivial skill needed to reassemble a chain with the &quot;chain breaker&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Do make sure that the spare chain and repair links you get are the correct width to match your chain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And, as several people have mentioned, a chain with 6000km on it is likely well beyond end of life.  I figure 2000 miles -- 3200km -- for mine.  At twice that likely the rear cogs are shot too and will need replacement.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T16:21:40.857" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T16:21:40.857" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21859" CreationDate="2014-06-05T23:54:29.143" Score="6" ViewCount="5992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a bike from bikes direct (The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott_stripper.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kilo TT stripper&lt;/a&gt;). Its a fixed gear bike that came with a front and rear brake. I was able to setup everything but the brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes are: Front/Rear Tektro R350 aluminum dual pull, Gloss Black finish&#xA;The levers are: Front/Rear cross top Tektro RL570 aluminum, Gloss Black finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sxbd4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the brake cables and housing that I have &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CFGRb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and of course the brakes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7EihC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11513" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T02:16:54.793" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T02:16:54.793" Title="How do I setup these brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;bike-setup&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21858" CreationDate="2014-06-06T00:49:27.193" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Congratulations on your new steed, and great work putting it together! Looks like a nice ride. Long post follows, but I've tried to edit it into something a bit more manageable. Here goes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Before you start&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned you were able to set everything up but the brakes. Forgive my impertinence, but before you go further, can I just check that you greased everything thoroughly before assembly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainring bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freewheel, sprocket, and lockring threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank bolt threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stem bolt threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seatpost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebar clamp area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might seem like a ballache, but you'll thank yourself in a year's time when you want to take something off to clean or change it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right, onto brakes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tools&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavy-duty cable cutters. Ones with very stout, sharp jaws. While it looks like plastic, the cable outer is actually made of coiled metal, and if you try and cut it with inferior tools you will blunt them, and make a mess of the cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selection of allen keys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pliers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Method&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's deal with the front brake first...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the inner cable from the outer, if you haven't done so already, and set it aside. You don't want to cut this until you've dealt with the outer. &lt;strong&gt;Nothing makes you feel more stupid than cutting the outer to size with the inner still inside!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second picture shows little metal sheaths that pop over the ends of the cable outer. These are important, so don't lose them. They help stop the outer fraying and pulling. Take one of them off for now and inspect the end of the outer. If it is cut nice and neat, great. If not, make a fresh cut (it might take a couple of goes to get a nice clean edge). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a small pointy thing (biro tip works fine) and wiggle it around inside the end of the outer, to make sure the opening is nice and wide and smooth. Then re-attach the metal sheath. One end of the outer is now prepared. Now you need to hold it in place against the barrel adjuster on the brake lever, so you can judge the length of cable you will need. Back off the barrel adjuster as far as it goes (so that it protrudes as little as possible). Avoiding any sharp bends, manipulate the outer gently around so it traces a smooth curve from the lever to the barrel adjuster on the brake caliper. Give yourself an extra inch or two, so you have a bit of reserve if you mess up the cut. Repeat what you did with the lever end of the cable, with the caliper end (i.e. cleaning up the hole and re-fitting the metal sheath). Almost there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now turn your attention to the inner cable itself (the bit you set aside and didn't cut yet). Now ideally you should lubricate the inner cable with a bit of oil or light assembly grease. Cooking oil will work fine at a push. This just helps protect the cable from rust. Give it a good rub all over. Next, feed it through the hole in the brake lever and out through the barrel adjuster, and slide it into the piece of outer you just cut to size. Feed it all the way through. The nipple on the end of the cable should sit neatly in the recess around the hole in the brake lever. The cable outer should be sitting snug in the barrel adjuster on the opposite side of the lever. Take the end of the inner cable and feed it through the barrel adjuster on the brake caliper itself, from top to bottom. Now seat the cable outer in the &quot;cup&quot; of that barrel adjuster. Pull on the inner cable from the bottom and the whole thing should snug right up nicely. At this point it's worth tightening up the barrel adjuster on the caliper too (so that it sits as low as possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fOrYU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cable routing should look a bit like this&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that's left is to adjust the caliper and clamp the cable behind the little plate on it (the slightly ridged bit held on with an allen bolt). To do this, first close the quick-release (the black plastic lever in the bottom right of your third photo) on the caliper, by rotating it downwards. This should help orientate the cable clamp correctly - the allen bolt head should be pointing horizontally outwards. Look from above and you will see a little groove in the metal plate - the cable feeds through here. Slide the cable through the groove and tighten the allen bolt just enough to stop the cable pinging back out and hitting you in the eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you need to make sure the brake caliper is centred nicely - squeeze the arms together and double-check that the pads are evenly-spaced from the wheel rim. Bear in mind that the pads themselves won't be positioned very nicely straight out of the box, so you may want to shift them about a bit until they align nicely with the braking surface on the rim. &lt;strong&gt;It is imperative that the pads do not come into contact with the sidewalls of the tyres. Otherwise you will eat through rubber and blow out your tyre very quickly indeed!&lt;/strong&gt; More fine tuning can come later, so don't be too precious about it. But if the brake is noticeably off to one side, loosen the mounting bolt a bit and centre it up. Tighten the mounting bolt again afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty soon you're going to wish you had a third hand... so grab a few strips of gaffa tape to make life a bit easier. You need to pinch the caliper arms together so that the pads almost touch the rim - leave a gap of about 1 to 2mm on each side. This is where gaffa comes in handy - you need to hold the arms in this position while putting tension on the cable, while simultaneously tightening the clamp bolt. Grab the bottom end of the inner cable with some pliers, and pull on it. Hard. Maintain this tension while you tighten the clamp. Don't over-tighten yet - you don't want to squash and damage the cable in case you need to loosen and re-clamp. (Doing this many times in the same place will cause the cable to fray, and strands will snap, and then it's toasted.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gcinh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing the general idea&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give the lever a gentle squeeze - not too hard, or the cable will slip - and verify the brakes are doing their thing, and that both caliper and lever return correctly when you release the lever. All OK? Great. Then let's tighten the clamp bolt some more. Tighter than you may first think. Give the lever a good hard squeeze to check it's not going anywhere. Only when you're totally happy, go ahead and cut the excess cable. Leave a few inches of excess on - this gives you something to grip with pliers if you need to tighten the cable later on down the line. Having said that, you have barrel adjusters on your calipers and your levers, so you should be fine. Rather than re-clamping the cable when your brake develops excess play, open up these adjusters as the pads wear and cable stretches. Finally, you should have some little ferrules (technical term: metal doohickies) that slip over the end of the cable. If not, your LBS will give you a few for free. Crimp one onto the end of the cable so it doesn't fray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Done! On to the rear brake...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about it. Lather, rinse, and repeat for the rear brake. Just make sure you leave enough length on the cable so you can turn your handlebars properly without stressing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is your first time fitting brakes, take it easy and test them in a quiet car park or something, starting off gently. Once you're happy they're working effectively, give them some real hard tests too. If all is well, you're golden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I should also add this - get a knowledgeable friend, or your local mechanic, to check them over for you - better safe than sorry.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, to avoid squeaky brakes, toe the pads in a tiny bit so that the leading edge touches the rim first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T02:03:51.580" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T02:03:51.580" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-06T01:27:38.190" Score="1" ViewCount="2442" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I run my hand on the inside of the rim, I can feel a protrusion of the spoke end going into the rim. Is that normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been getting about 5 or 6 flats, and they sometimes occur on the same place, but sometime on totally different place of the tube. I went to my local bike store, and he said to replace the inside rim tape. I had a black rubbery rim tape, and he made me replace it with a white, almost looks like its made out of cloth, rim tape. I put the new rim tape and a new tube but still got a flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I got frustrated that I needed to patch the tube again and put electrical tape two times over the inside rim, after which I wrapped the new rim tape around again. I finally got another flat in a totally different place and am not sure what to do any more. When I try to match the location on the rim to the hole, I can see that it roughly corresponds to a spoke end sticking out, and there is nothing on the tire when I run my fingers through it. The wheel is pretty old, I got it from a bike restoration shop. The holes in the tube are very small, the only way that I can find them is by filling a container with water and running an inflated tube through it. The tire I have is a Panasonic I got maybe 2 or 3 months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of rim should you have to put the black rubber rim tape and what kind of rim tape should you have when using the white cloth-like rim tape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11514" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T09:18:08.240" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T09:33:28.057" Title="spoke end poking out of rim, thinking it may be reason why Im getting flats" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21841" CreationDate="2014-06-06T01:33:53.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many things that this could be. Given how new the bike is, I might check the headset to see if it's loose. That's just the most likely of many possibilities, though. It's also worth noting that the actual location of various nasty sounds on bikes can be deceiving due to the way the sounds resonate through the bike frame/fork/wheels/etc. Check the headset first and then go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T01:33:53.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21854" CreationDate="2014-06-06T01:40:21.590" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now get that I answered the wrong (opposite question) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two most common types of flats are&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) pinch&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) puncture &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can also have the spoke puncture the tube from the inside but nothing a wheel diameter can do about that.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure about puncture but I can think of a situation of pinch flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know wheels don't come in a radius of 30 cm and  50 cm  but for simplicity lets assume they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume you are going 10 mph and hit 10 cm curb    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire / wheel must absorb the sine of the angle&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The 30 cm tire will have a larger angle  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it to extremes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the wheel is infinitely large the&lt;br&gt;&#xA;sine of 0 is 0&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the tire has only a 9 cm radius it will hit the curb straight on&#xA;and must absorb all the force.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;sine of 90 degrees is 1&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you rode a 30 cm and 50 cm over same curb at increasing faster speeds the 30 cm would bottom out at a lower speed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since sine is not linear the difference would not be 3/5 but somewhere around that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikers moved to larger tires as they roll over rocks and roots with less effort.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Less effort equates to less force.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another answer noted more revolutions so more wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a sharper angle on the contact patch.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This puts more stress on the rubber and casing (and more rolling resistance.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T15:00:44.960" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T15:00:44.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21854" CreationDate="2014-06-06T04:13:28.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that a larger wheel will reduce flats. But I can think of one &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; reason that it might work. For a given distance, a smaller circumference wheel will rotate more times than a larger circumference wheel. So, if one wheel has twice the circumference as another, each part of the wheel's surface will touch the road surface half as many times as the smaller wheel. therefore, that larger wheel will &lt;em&gt;wear&lt;/em&gt; less than the smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I don't think that tread wear has much impact on flats for bicycle tires (as it does for automobiles). But this is the only theoretical explanation I can provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7526" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T04:13:28.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21854" CreationDate="2014-06-06T04:27:03.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possible mechanism that occurs to me is that the larger tyre may hit fewer small pieces of glass because it rides higher over corrugations on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using my well-renowned skills with paint.net I give you the following conceptual diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JeE4j.png&quot; alt=&quot;two wheel sizes on road&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black is the road surface, magnified and exaggerated to show the normal corrugations. Not to scale (or in proportion) are two different sized bike wheels. Note that the green one hits the red shard of glass while the larger one doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The puncture mechanism being affected is that contact with the glass adheres it to the tyre either through moisture on a wet road or just a tiny point entry to the rubber as shown below. Once adhered every further contact with the road might push it further into the tyre, eventually resulting in a puncture. But the larger wheel rides higher over small bumps, so comes in contact with fewer small shards since they tend to sit at the bottom of the corrugations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &lt;strong&gt;the size difference is small&lt;/strong&gt;. Assuming 23mm tyres on both the ISO 622 and 630 wheels the outside diameters will be approximately &#xA;668mm   and 676mm (via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BikeCalc&lt;/a&gt;), so at best the larger wheel will be 668/676 = 98.8% as likely to get a puncture by this mechanism. But compared to a 406 wheel at 497mm OD (with a 23mm tyre, unlikely though that is) the ratio is 73.5% (less than 3/4 as many punctures... of the ones that happen by this mechanism). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that a 1% reduction in frequency of one particular mechanism would be detectable, even if that was the dominant mechanism for getting punctures. I ride about 1.5 hours a day, 5 days a week, and get 2-5 punctures a year. Dropping that by 1% would mean I'd get one fewer puncture every 20 years (at best) making it 39-99 punctures instead of 40-100. The effect is so far down in the noise that it would be undetectable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further minimising the effect&lt;/strong&gt;, most of my punctures are via bigger objects. Recently they've been the shaft of a pop rivet (622x28 non-puncture resistant tyre) and a carpet tack (406 marathon plus), with the last glass shard puncture being late last year (406 marathon). So in real life it's might only be a 1% reduction in 1/3 of the punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T22:12:40.203" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T22:12:40.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21533" CreationDate="2014-06-06T09:13:33.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tricky, assuming some accuracy in the scale of your drawing the trench is around half a meter across which means your front wheel wants to be climbing out while your back wheel is still descending.  Riding a diagonal traverse could work if gradient and grip allow it, but if not you're just gonna slide, and if you slide near the top you're gonna slide a long way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try to roll in straight but lock the rear and slide in sideways at the end, leaving me riding along the trench.  The trouble now is that climbing out on a traverse, on what is drawn as a very steep lip, is also gonna be hard.  There might be a chance to ride along to a more forgiving line out.  If not, or if the more forgiving line is still challenging, I might try to roll the front up the foot of the first slope before turning back towards the climb out to try and hit it as square as possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, there would be some unweighting/popping of the front, followed by rocking forward to haul the rear over, or actually sitting back for traction and powering out; depends on the exact nature of the slope where you climb out and how fast you hit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plenty of places to fail there, but (I hope!) not too easy to get hurt!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11518" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T09:13:33.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21860" CreationDate="2014-06-06T09:32:42.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can see the end of spoke going out of the nipple, you should polish it with a rasp. If you do not see it, but feel with your hand, the tape will be enough (if it put right, as Batman wrote).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T09:32:42.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-06T11:39:28.183" Score="0" ViewCount="902" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I have noticed that when I push the rear brake lever (hydraulic disc brakes) the rotor is a little bit bending , but it wasn't rubbing the caliper . I came to a conclusion that rotor is not centered in the caliper , and I tried to center it . I took the pads out , pushed the pistons , installed the pads back and even if I push the caliper all the way into the frame there is very little space between the inside pad and the rotor , and very big between the outside. &#xA;How can I solve this problem so that the rotor stands right in the middle of the caliper , I think this will also improve the braking power. I though to put some spacers between the frame and the rear adapter , but I am not sure if it is a good idea or no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T17:20:51.100" Title="Not enough space to adjust the caliper" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-06T12:49:26.713" Score="0" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently upgraded my road wheel set on my cross bike to a set of hope hoops which came with hope mono rs hubs. At first they required me to adjust the rear dérailleur so that the shifting was working properly after a few weeks I finally put my cross wheel set in realising that the rear dérailleur required adjustment again. Is this because the hubs are different sizes or my poor mechanical work. The rear hub on my cross wheel set is a tiagra 4600: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-tiagra-4600-rear-hub/?lang=en&amp;amp;curr=GBP&amp;amp;dest=1&amp;amp;utm_source=pla&amp;amp;utm_medium=base&amp;amp;utm_campaign=uk&amp;amp;kpid=5360448791&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-tiagra-4600-rear-hub/?lang=en&amp;amp;curr=GBP&amp;amp;dest=1&amp;amp;utm_source=pla&amp;amp;utm_medium=base&amp;amp;utm_campaign=uk&amp;amp;kpid=5360448791&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;road wheel set: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopetech.com/product/mono-rs-rear-hub/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hopetech.com/product/mono-rs-rear-hub/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T12:54:04.067" Title="difference in rear hub widths?" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21868" CreationDate="2014-06-06T12:54:04.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A list of hub spacings is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Obviously, you need to have a wheel which fits into the frame and matches the hub spacing (in some cases, you can squeeze a slightly bigger or smaller hub into a frame, such as for 27&quot; -&gt; 700c conversions, but this is peripheral).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, when you swap a rear wheel to a different one, you will need to make slight RD adjustments - there are variations to where the derailleur sees the cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T12:54:04.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-06T14:19:23.570" Score="1" ViewCount="9524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently saw that a bmx frame was hydroformed.Is it better than not hydroformed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11463" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T19:14:14.710" Title="Is hydroformed tubing good?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21870" CreationDate="2014-06-06T14:32:56.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroforming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, hydroforming is a cost-effective way of shaping ductile metals such as aluminum, brass, low alloy steels, stainless steel into lightweight, structurally stiff and strong pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, most aluminium frames are made this way. They start with a simple round tube and form it in more suitable shapes. You wil have to look hard to find non-hydroformed frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T14:32:56.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21870" CreationDate="2014-06-06T16:20:04.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not inherently, but hydroformed tubing has more possible shapes and distributions of material, and potentially allows the bicycle designer to design a lighter bike of the same strength, or a stronger bike of the same weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe the bike just looks cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T16:20:04.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21841" CreationDate="2014-06-06T16:44:19.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's also worth checking if your brake/gear cables aren't bumping into one another as the move due to vibrations from the road. I once thought my headset was loose until I put an elastic band to stop the cables from rattling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6065" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T16:44:19.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21875" CreationDate="2014-06-06T16:57:39.277" Score="3" ViewCount="7003" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything else equal is a fatter tire likely to get fewer flats  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually misread another question&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/21854/is-a-bigger-wheel-likely-to-get-fewer-flats/21862#21862&quot;&gt;Is a bigger wheel likely to get fewer flats?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So I am posting this question to match my answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T23:29:22.687" Title="Is a fatter tire likely to get fewer flats" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21874" CreationDate="2014-06-06T16:57:59.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two most common types of flats are&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) pinch&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) puncture &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can also have the spoke puncture the tube from the inside but nothing a tire can do about that.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A fatter tire is more resistant to both pinch and puncture flats&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger tire will also have softer ride (due to lower pressure) and better traction due to more tire in contact with the road.  This durability and comfort come at a cost.  A larger tire is heavier, more wind resistance, and more rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel sizes are reported in a number of ways.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The actual actual wheel size or actual wheel size plus nominal tire size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sake of fair comparison I will use actual wheel size.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For example ISO 622 is the same as both 700mm and 29&quot;.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will compare ISO 622 wheel diameter and tire diameter of 1&quot; versus 2&quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Same rubber in each tires and same thickness.&#xA;A fatter tire will tend to be thicker but for the sake of head to heads comparison assume same thickness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire must support the weight of the rider and bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I am 170 lbs and 60% of the weight is on the rear wheel then let's call it it 100 lb on the rear wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2&quot; diameter tire will run at a lower pressure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Let's assume the 1&quot; tire runs at 100 PSI and the 2&quot; at 60 PSI.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bigger tire runs at lower pressure because it has more contact area.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In this example the 1&quot; tire will have a contact area of 1 square inch.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And the 2&quot; tire will have a contact area of 1.67 square inches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pinch Flat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pinch flat is when the tube is pinched against rim and splits open.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you hit a blunt object such as a curb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger diameter tire is more resistant pinch flat for two reasons &#xA; 1. With the larger diameter the outer tire (starts) further from the curb.&#xA; 2. Due to the bigger diameter the  fatter tire builds surface area faster so it does not need to deform as far to match the force of the curb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Puncture Flat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sharp object penetrates tire and tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Identical rubber will have the same force per surface area to penetrate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The rubber does not know if it has 1&quot; or 2&quot; or buddies.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume a triangular piece of glass 10mm by  10mm by 10mm.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along comes this this fat soft tire.  The tire deforms and the rubber makes contact with the road around the glass like the glass is not even there.   Because the tire deformed and made contact with the ground the glass never exceeded the minimum force to penetrate the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the fatter tires comes in contact with more glass is still distributes the load.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Would you rather stand on a bed of nails of lie on a bed of nails.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then along comes a hard shinny skinny tire that cannot absorb the glass and at the point it is just tire on glass there is sufficient pressure for the glass to penetrate the tire.  The higher pressure tire did deform but not as much as much as the lower pressure tire.  In this example when the tire was directly on the glass no tire was in contract with ground to take the part of the load.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MDYCh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;TireComparison&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smaller piece of glass in which both tires deform and touch ground around the glass the softer (lower pressure) tire is always going to have more tire on ground around the glass and take more weight off the glass.  The large tire is going to take enough weight off the glass to avoid penetration for a range of heights and sharpness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not an artificial condition.  A glass bottle is about 4 mm thick. The small sharp shards of glass from the bottle are 4 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a piece of glass that penetrates both tires the glass will penetrate the harder (higher pressure) tire further.  Because of deformation the glass will not be pushed in all the way.  Again the softer tire has more deformation.  So could have a case where the glass penetrates the tube on the hard tire but not the softer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride the same piece of glass long enough it will eventually works its way into both tires.  So inspect your tires for glass.  On a regular basis.  For sure every time you air them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire Pressure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire pressure effects both pinch and puncture flats (and rolling resistance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increase pressure reduces pinch flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increased pressure increases puncture flats because the tires does not deform as much (spread the load).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there is a sweet spot.  Go with the manufacturer for that sweet spot.  Tire will have a pressure range.  If you weigh 180 of more then use the maximum.  If you wight 140 of less then use the minimum.  In between use liner interpolation.   If you weigh 160 you are 1/2 between and should use the pressure 1/2 way between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikers like to run at lower pressure for more contact (traction) and to absorb  roots and rocks.  If you are running at a lower pressure then be aware and don't bang on roots and rocks as hard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tubeless&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubeless tires offer the advantage of no tube to pinch so no pinch flats.  Can run them at a lower pressure.  A tubeless tires with sealant is not less susceptible to a puncture flat but it will seal small punctures.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-07T18:39:26.787" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T18:39:26.787" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21874" CreationDate="2014-06-06T17:42:44.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't a wider tire also hit more sharp objects because of the increased contact area? In that case it would be less likely for a narrower tire to puncture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say this from experience in the southwest where goat-heads(puncture-vine) are everywhere. I find that my roadbike tires get flats much less frequently than my mountain bike tires, but I also ride them in different areas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11528" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T17:42:44.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21840" CreationDate="2014-06-06T18:37:34.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After thinking about this for awhile, I think this would work, albeit somewhat clumsily. It would operate similar to a retro-direct, except with no reversing for the second freewheel. You would have to use good quality freewheels to avoid having both of them engaging together and binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer a commenter Blam:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just how would you expect it to magically shift grears? The are both attached to the same axle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two freewheels being engaged in opposite directions would result in only a single freewheel being engaged at a time. He wouldn't be able to 'change' gears, going forward, but would see a different torque profile when slowing down compared to when going forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T18:37:34.133" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21849" CreationDate="2014-06-06T19:49:15.910" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the web site that chain requires special tool and a unique set pin  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/servicevideo/videocatid_4_videoid_7.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Assembling and disassembling Campagnolo 11 speed chain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I suggested in my comment I think you have your priorities wrong if you a looking to buy a chain tool for road repair before you have even changed the first chain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for measuring the chain and chain maintenance have you referred to the manual? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campagnolo.com/repository/documenti/en/11sCHAINS_09_11.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It specifically states all assembly and disassemble should be performed with the special tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual has instructions on how to measure stretch.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you read it is hard to measure.  Why would you not include the manual in your research?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-06-07T19:53:20.493" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T19:53:20.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-06T19:54:41.240" Score="3" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have taken the body cover off my Shimano PD-M520 pedals and am unable to get it back on due to a little nodule having to be behind the bit of metal where the tightness ajustment is. That part is very stiff to move the correct amount! I was wondering if theres a knack to it or if brute force has to prevail here? First Picture shows the body cover not on properly, (I never knew it was called a body cover until I checked out Shimano's schematic for the pedal!) the second picture shows the nodule thing im talking about (Im full of technical terms)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9W8D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9W8D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;on&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Bloe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Bloe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;off&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11530" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T07:04:35.403" Title="SPD PD-M520 Pedals, replacing the Body Cover" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21870" CreationDate="2014-06-06T20:01:32.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this link to Niner explains it best  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is that is depends&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ninerbikes.com/Niner-Alloy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NinerAlloyFrame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Frames with simpler shapes can be hydroformed and still achieve the&#xA;  tolerances we need to create a light, strong bike. Frames with very&#xA;  complex shaping or with tubes that need to interface with bearings or&#xA;  pivot hardware are typically airformed. Airforming allows for much&#xA;  more precise tolerances and more elaborate shapes that can include&#xA;  both bending and twisting. A great example of this level of complexity&#xA;  is the stay bridge on our alloy full suspension frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-06-07T19:14:14.710" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T19:14:14.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21883" CreationDate="2014-06-06T22:05:14.060" Score="1" ViewCount="2620" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought a new (used) wheel set for my mountain bike and it came with a 9-speed cassette. I currently have 3x7 rapid shifters, which presents an incompatibility. I'm wondering how to fix this problem. The way I see it my options are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace my shifter with a 9 speed shifter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace my cassette with a 7 speed cassette and an extra spacer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the spacers with 7 speed cassette spacers and remove some sprockets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a 9 speed chain and roll with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what the best approach is but I'm wondering if anyone has tried number 4. I know that there will probably be issues wit shifting because the stops on the shifter are bigger than the travel between sprockets, by I'd like to know if it is manageable or not. Any advice? Failing that what is my best approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11346" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T14:16:18.893" Title="9 speed cassette and 7 speed shifter" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21882" CreationDate="2014-06-07T01:45:38.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Option #4 won't work - the spacing between the cogs is different for 7,8,9 speed (4.34 mm for a Shimano compatible cassette for 9 speed, 5 mm for 7 speed Shimano). An index shifter is designed to move the chain over by a certain amount based on this spacing, which is why you have to typically match the number of speeds on the shifter with the cassette. Note that a 7 speed, 8 speed, 9 speed chain can usually be used on any of the 7/8/9 speed setups though (not necessarily optimally, but it usually works out with a bit of adjustment). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapest solution is to just buy a 7 speed cassette and put it on, and is likely the best (#2). 7 speeds chosen appropriately is more than enough for almost everyone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disassembling a cassette is a hassle and its likely you won't get the spacing correct anyway, so #3 is out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option #1 is a decent option given 9 speed alivio or whatever shifters are not too expensive now, and you get a fresh set of cables if you buy a set of Alivio shifters. But, if you have brake-shift combined units, you may also have to buy new brake levers. Its also more work, but if your shifters aren't working too well, this is a good choice - there isn't much on the market for good quality 7 speed shifters anymore, so if you're going to be using the bike a lot, this may be a good choice (I just upgraded my 7 speed commuter to 8 speed because the shifters went). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To conclude, option 2 (installing a 7 speed cassette) or option 1 (installing 9 speed shifters) are the only ones which would work. Option 2 is cheaper (and I'd likely go for this if the shifters are in good working condition), but option 1 is a decently reasonable one as well (and is recommended if it looks like the 7 speed shifters will go). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-06-07T14:16:18.893" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T14:16:18.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21899" CreationDate="2014-06-07T15:31:16.443" Score="32" ViewCount="9349" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often I find myself driving with my racing bike on the dedicated bicycle lane in my city. The problem with these bicycle lanes is that there is a lot of broken glass (once every few kilometers). Normally I spot it quite late, drive through the glass, and hope for the best in not getting a puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is as follows: How can I minimize the chance of getting a puncture while driving through glass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not really looking for material advice, but rather for tips on how to drive through the glass (i.e. does it help to redistribute weight, speed up, or slow down), and does it make sense to check your tires after driving through the glass (as this answer suggests: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/367/what-is-a-good-way-to-keep-my-tires-from-going-flat-easily/378#378&quot;&gt;What is a good way to keep my tires from going flat easily?&lt;/a&gt;). This far, I've not gotten a puncture there, but I would like to keep it that way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7525" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T02:57:58.480" Title="Broken glass on the bicycle path, what to do?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21886" CreationDate="2014-06-07T15:39:10.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much, aside from spotting it and veering around it, all you can do is run tougher tires. Belted tires are a good start, like the Schwalbe Marathon Plus for general use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T15:39:10.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21886" CreationDate="2014-06-07T15:45:10.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only solutions I can think of other than trying to dodge, using &quot;thornproof&quot; tires (not a complete solution but they do help), getting good at changing tubes (and inspecting the tire to make sure there isn't retained glass that will promptly puncture it again), or campaigning/volunteering to get the glass cleaned up... is to assert your rights as a vehicle and take the travel lane rather than the bike lane. Car drivers will get grumpy about it, but if the bike lane isn't safe, it isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11505" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T15:45:10.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-07T16:12:58.980" Score="2" ViewCount="7101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Took my new Cannondale out yesterday and 40 mins into ride started getting pains just below neck top between shoulder blades, the bike is the right size a 56 I am 179cm, is this due to me not being used the drop bar posture or am I doing something wrong ? Have been told it may take a few rides for the muscles to get used to the posture, just mystified any advice would be welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11248" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T14:56:04.953" Title="New to Drop bar Road Bike, severe upper back/neck pains" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22911" CreationDate="2014-06-07T06:00:13.193" Score="3" ViewCount="1638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a bike with Shimano Di2 (electronic shifting with servo motors in the derailleurs), and I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;e-tube software&lt;/a&gt; on a laptop to configure it. &#xA;What I would like to do is be able to password protect the derailleurs setup so it is not able to be changed unless the owner wants it changed. So it's not able to be changed by someone else without the owners permission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11539" OwnerDisplayName="bykfxa" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-06-07T17:50:34.210" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T21:12:19.743" Title="Password protect Shimano Di2?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;&lt;shimano-di2&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21889" CreationDate="2014-06-07T17:51:51.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should try a professional bike fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because you are 179 cm doesn't mean a 56 is right for you (the sizing of a bike with a given number varies on the type of bike and manufacturer and model). Normally, when you switch to drop bars, you will be sore (but pain is different, and should be alarming, though going for a 40 minute ride while just starting out may be a bit much). The geometry of the bike can also cause problems - racers may cause more pain than touring bikes due to their more aggressive geometry, for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are some tips from sheldon brown on pain, and what to do about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-06-08T15:11:59.253" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T15:11:59.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21886" CreationDate="2014-06-07T18:18:37.347" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As for during&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&quot;How can I minimize the chance of getting a puncture while driving through glass?&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Coast and distribute your weight evenly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't brake - it will grind the glass in.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you think you can clear it then hop it - be sure you can clear it with both tires.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And a hop - not a bunny hop - a bunny hop is for height not distance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is lot you can do before and after.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nature of a glass flat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid a glass flat it is important to understand the nature of a glass flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarely get a glass flat in one pass.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glass is very different than a nail, tack, or screw.   Glass is brittle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two type of glass:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Big chunks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Little shards that you can't easily see &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Big chunks:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not often you will get sliced open by a big chunk as the sharp edge has to be up and since glass is brittle you often break it.  But like the base of coke bottle with some 1/4 points sticking up.  Tires loses pretty much every time.  At least those are easier see - steer clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller shard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A long narrow sliver of glass does not have the structural integrity to puncture a tire in one pass - glass will fracture.  A sliver of glass is rarely standing upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The are 4 stages to a glass shard flat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The glass penetrates the rubber surface.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There is minimum or threshold force per area for the glass (or any sharp object) to penetrate the surface. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work into the rubber.  This takes many revolutions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work through the belt.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;First the glass has to make it to the belt.  If the tire is thicker than the belt then the glass will not make it to the belt.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Kevlar and other fibers  resists cuts.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But these fibers cannot stop abrasion.  If you leave the glass on the belt long enough it will work through.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work though the tube.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tube is designed to hold air.   Tube does not resist puncture, cut, or abrasion. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have pulled glass out tires at least 20 times.  Only twice out of a flat tire.  From inspection that glass had been in the flat tires a while.  A glass flat rarely happens in two seconds or two minutes.  A glass flat can take days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As for before - Lots you can do&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puncture resistant tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fatter lower pressure tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slime&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Puncture resistant tires&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harder rubber to resist penetration.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I personally don't like harder rubber.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is a harsher ride and not as much grip. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thicker rubber.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some puncture resistant tires tires even have a spacing foam. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puncture / cut resistant belt.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is where you get the best bang per weight &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you go out and buy THE most puncture resistant tire consider it comes at a cost.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They are hard and heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fatter lower pressure tire&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know people say higher pressure is better for puncture resistance but I disagree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me be clear.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am not suggesting you run A tire at a lower pressure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Run a tire that has a lower design pressure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A fatter tire has a lower design pressure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you weigh 180 lbs or more then run your 25mm at the max (e.g. 110 psi).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am suggesting if you run 35mm that has a maximum pressure of 80 psi then it will have better puncture resistance.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For rolling resistance, grip, pinch, and other factors run the tire at the design pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a threshold force for the glass to enter the tire.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A larger tire has less PSI and a bigger footprint.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For the same weight 50 PSI will have twice the footprint size as 100 psi.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Larger tire makes contact with more pavement around glass such.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So a larger tire avoids penetration from a range of glass that would have penetrated the smaller harder tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the large tire makes contact with more glass it is more points of contact.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The force is spread out over more points of contact.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A person can lie on a bed of nails but not stand on it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you had to walk through a bed of glass would you spread your foot to spread the load or would you walk on your heels to minimize the pieces of glass? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/21874/is-a-fatter-tire-likely-to-get-fewer-flats&quot;&gt;If a fatter tire more puncture resistant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slime&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slime is not much good for glass.  Glass tends to have larger cuts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing you can do to prevent a glass flat is to remove glass.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;First two seconds, two minutes, or two days.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you leave glass in a any tire longer enough it will puncture the tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the road can use key or a knife to gently pry it out.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At home I use hemostats.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommendation&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't go out and buy the most puncture resistant tires without evaluating the trade offs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have a pair and I don't like the ride, grip, or roll.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And they are going to last a long time.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have not had a flat yet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Consider a tire that is a mix of ride, grip, roll, and protection.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A Marathon Plus weighs almost twice as much as a Gator Hardshell.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And inspect your tires on a regular basis.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can go 28mm or 32mm then do so.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not just for the reduced pressure but you also have a lot more options in flat resistant tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T18:03:06.570" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21890" CreationDate="2014-06-07T18:21:56.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a bike with Shimano Di2, physical security should be paramount - I'm not sure why an unsavory person should even be physically near enough to the bike to be able to make  those changes. And they'd have to be carrying the right cable and everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like a highly implausible situation to occur, and certainly which should not occur provided the bike is physically secured so someone can't connect the e-tube software to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the software is likely proprietary, so it isn't clear if that functionality could be added - you'd have to probably reverse engineer it and see if you could mod it to do that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T18:21:56.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28840" CreationDate="2014-06-07T18:46:17.980" Score="2" ViewCount="3933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a bike with broken hanger and derailleur. As the owner didn't want to put money in good parts, I installed a cheap Sunrun derailleur compatible with index, and a new hanger. Just after I finished the work, adjusting the cable I noticed, that it have 8 speed shifter and 7 speed cassette. I know, that it's not an issue, and there is no problem to adjust it normally and I left the 8 as ghost, but this time I couldn't adjust it: if all the gears shifting up good in 7 &gt; 1 direction, they will not shift good down (1 &gt; 7) and vise versa. There is a point that both directions not shifting well, like remain at gear 7 while shifter showing 6 and remain at 1 while shifter showing 2.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Am I missing something? I cleaned and oiled the shifter, cleaned outers, put a new cable and new derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T09:00:16.673" Title="8 speed shifter with 7 speed cassette" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21894" CreationDate="2014-06-07T18:54:34.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the shifter and derailleur have compatible cable pulls (which you should check), you won't be able to perfectly adjust the shifter to shift smoothly on a cassette of 7, since the cable pull which moves the shifter for 8 speeds is likely not enough for 7 speeds. Thus, generally, you need to match the shifters with the derailleur and the cassette spacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has some comments on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k7-7.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;7 speed setups&lt;/a&gt; and running an 8 speed shifter with 7 speeds through &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#alternate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some alternate cable routing&lt;/a&gt;, but given that you can buy an 8 speed cassette for like 10 bucks, it seems like an unnecessary hassle (given the extra time you'll be spending tweaking adjustment). Or you can bolt on a 5 buck friction shifter and save yourself some time too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T18:54:34.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21886" CreationDate="2014-06-07T22:47:55.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some riders will reach down with their gloved hand and let it brush the wheel as it turns, to remove any glass or small pebbles that have adhered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long-distance riders have been known to use a formed piece of wire or molded plastic attached to the front &quot;brake bolt&quot; (center bolt hole in the fork above the wheel) that continuously brushes the tire.  There used to be a product sold for this, but I haven't seen it in maybe 15 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't quite have the nerve to reach down and brush the wheel with my hand, but as luck would have it my front fender is quite flexible and I find I can reach down and press the leading edge of the fender into the wheel to brush it off.  I do this when I hear/feel something on the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T22:47:55.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-08T01:12:50.023" Score="1" ViewCount="5650" Body="&lt;p&gt;My front derailleur (Shimano LX T670 / 34.9mm) has been stuck on the highest gear for a couple of weeks now which has got me thinking about how little I use it. To save weight could I replace my front derailleur with  some sort of static chain guard/stay to keep my chain on the same chain ring? Does such a thing exist for three speed chainsets (Shimano T780 48Ax36x26 with chainguard)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not ready to completely convert my bike to a single speed just yet as I imagine I could install the front derailleur back on if I decide to go on a more adventurous journey compared to the daily commute where its not needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the FD is only 155 grams I do enjoy finding ways to save weight here and there, before you know it it's half a KG lighter. The problem with leaving it on is that the spring has rusted into place almost at mid shift, this causes the chain to rub the side of the chain guide which produces an annoying sound and causes it to occasionally jump to the middle chainset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now I have simply removed it but in the past on a different bike I suffered from chain jumping which is what I am trying to avoid by using a chain guide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11536" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-06-20T15:54:35.257" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T15:54:35.257" Title="Can I replace the front front derailleur with chain guide?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21897" CreationDate="2014-06-08T01:37:01.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple test is just to remove the derailleur. Some of them have a screw holding the bottom of the cage together, in which case it's easy - just undo the clamp holding the derailleur to the seat tube, the cable clamp, then once it's loose undo that screw and wiggle it off the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without that cage screw you'll have to break the chain which requires either a quick link that can be undo by hand, or a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/3480#3480&quot;&gt;special tool&lt;/a&gt;. Putting it back on afterwards is slightly more complex but quite doable for most people. If that works, you can then remove the cable and outer, and possibly the shifter (these days likely to be built into the brake lever so not removable). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as Batman pointed out, the front derailleur is not the heavy part of a multi-speed setup. Most of the weight loss from a single-speed conversion is in losing the extra chain, cassette and rear derailleur, and the maintenance benefits also come mostly from not having to adjust the rear derailleur. So the total benefit is likely to be low. You might also lose a little weight by removing one of both of the extra chainrings, but again not every much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-08T08:36:46.657" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T08:36:46.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21886" CreationDate="2014-06-08T06:06:34.113" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three approaches you can use in combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preparation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tough tires - people have their favorite puncture-proof tires. Kevlar reinforced tires work pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard tires - pump your tires to close to the maximum pressure written on the side wall. This definitely reduces punctures, and can be combined with puncture-proof tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At the time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You limit your question &quot;reducing punctures while [riding] though glass&quot;. Obviously, if you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; avoid the trash you would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot always go around the trash. If you are able, you could &lt;strong&gt;bunny hop&lt;/strong&gt; over it. This is also not always possible when commuting, due to lack of time, heavy traffic (including other bikes) limiting your options, or carrying a pack or panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slowing down is often also not an option when commuting because of following traffic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After the fact&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brush your tires. It should be acknowledged that there are some who are squeamish about this. But it is very effective at removing foreign objects from your tires. In 35 years since I learned to do it, I've never (seriously) hurt my hand. &lt;em&gt;Of course you should wear gloves.&lt;/em&gt; Most gloves have a reinforced patch across the palm to the base of the thumb for this purpose. (Many people mistake this for extra padding :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't wait: as soon as you hit the trash start brushing your tires. The more revolutions your tires do, the more the trash gets hammered into them. So brush them strait away. It doesn't help to stop to do it; firstly, it interrupts your ride, but mainly because by the time you stop the damage is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the front tire, place your palm (near the base of your thumb) gently on the top of the rotating tire, in front of the brakes. The tire surface must be moving &lt;em&gt;away&lt;/em&gt; from anything you could catch your hand in. You only need to keep it there for a few seconds, enough for one or maybe two revolutions of the wheel. Sometimes you feel a slight bump when you have successfully removed something from the tire. Usually, you'll feel nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back tire is a bit harder to brush, because you have to reach down to an awkward place and if you have to look it means you're not looking where you're going. So you'll want to practice this skill before you use it in traffic. Again, brush your tire in &lt;em&gt;front&lt;/em&gt; of the brakes, in front of the back stay, where the tire is moving away from the brakes. Because of the low clearance between the back tire and the down tube on most race bikes, you need to be careful not to let you hand get pulled down into the gap. That hurts. Also avoid poking your finger into the spokes. That hurts too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading this you can see why some people avoid doing it. Just be careful while you are learning, and practice before doing it in traffic. It's a valuable skill to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T11:29:44.353" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T11:29:44.353" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21249" CreationDate="2014-06-08T08:57:05.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting child seats designed for car use into or onto cargo bikes is very common. The basic idea is to work out how you can mount it to your bike using something similar to the way the seat you have is mounted in the car so the mounts work properly. Just grabbing one and bolting it to your bike could easily result in it ripping off in a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've seen a lot of people just drop the seat into the box and vaguely tie them upright. If you're going short distances at low speed, and you don't crash, that works. There's no real benefit in having a proper car seat if you do this, whatever baby container you have will work just as well/badly as long as the baby is somewhat strapped in and it's reasonably robust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a pram or push chair that you can remove the wheels from making a mount for that on the bike is probably going to be the cheap option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step up is to anchor it properly by using the bracket that holds the box onto the frame and attaching straps to that that attach to the seat where the seat-belts do. Often that just means a piece of timber and some old seat belt straps held on with screws and washers. It's a bit crude but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different approach is to buy a seat that's designed for a rear rack and mount that in the box somehow. The easy way is the run a length of 2x4&quot; timber the length of the box and bolt a rear rack to that (if the seat has quick-release mounts for the rack) or just bolt the seat to the timber. Then make a frame for that bit of timber that you can attach securely to the box but also remove when you need to. The advantage of that is that you can get a seat that has a headrest for your kid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're comfortable working with timber, I'd be very inclined to make something that does exactly what you want. Have a look at how standard bikes seats work and build something similar, probably with more padding. I'd be really tempted to make a wooden &quot;cowl&quot; that the seat can lean back into to support the kids head, but when the seat tips more upright doesn't get in the way. And use 100mm thick foam for the lining, rather than trying to suspend a wooden box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is based on what I've seen around the place since I don't have kids of my own. I'd say less than 10% of new parents that ride have a special baby-on-bike carrier, they almost all use a car carrier or similar and tie it into the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://images.canadianlisted.com/nlarge/long-john-cargo-bike-2-child-seats-1200-south-etobicoke_6472935.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cargo bike with two kiddie seats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T08:57:05.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-08T12:32:00.523" Score="1" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, when cycling there is one narrow, but busy road I always 'evade' parked cars by cycling a bit on the sidewalk. I am aware this is entirely illegal, however compared to the alternative (stopping every 30 seconds for the 5 minutes it takes me to get to the end or jumping in front of cars which by law should break and drive behind me... but they are going a bit too fast for that) it is a risk I am always taking. I do wonder however, how badly would I be fined for this if caught?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. The road in question is in Belgium, so for all practical purposes I only care about the Belgium fine, but as I am Dutch I tend to do this to a lesser extend (the Dutch traffic situation is far better) in the Netherlands as well so would love to know both fines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11541" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T09:09:43.527" Title="Cycling on the sidewalk/pavement fines in belgium/netherlands" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21886" CreationDate="2014-06-08T13:20:10.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to brushing your tires as soon as it happens (as soon as it's safe to stop and do so of course), checking your tires before every ride and picking out small peices of glass is also important (there's often glass on the road that gets picked up by your tire that you don't visually see of course). I follow this simple procedure and I haven't gotten a flat on my road bike in 2 years, and only get flats on my commuter once every year or so (it goes through much more glass).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T13:20:10.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21897" CreationDate="2014-06-08T17:37:44.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The product you want does exist, but it's not significantly lighter than a front derailleur, it just works better for single rings. The are much heavier and more robust chain keepers used for Downhill MTB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paul Chain keeper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paulcomp.com/chainkeeper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.paulcomp.com/chainkeeper.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dckjc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Paul Chain Keeper&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a whole page of similar devices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Chain-Tensioners-and-Guides&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.jensonusa.com/Chain-Tensioners-and-Guides&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T17:37:44.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-08T19:40:01.703" Score="1" ViewCount="1278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a FSA compact crank 50/34 with a 9-speed 12-27 cassette. I need better climbing ability for steep grades, not concerned with flat top speed. What should I do? What is the largest size cassette I can use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12544" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T15:33:33.233" Title="FSA Compact 50/34 Need better climbing" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22902" CreationDate="2014-06-08T19:48:50.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The largest cassette you can use is determined by the rear derailleur (in particular, its chain wrap capacity). For something larger than 30t in the back, you want a wide range derailleur (code SGS) - something like a Deore rear derailleur if you're running Shimano (at 9 speed, the mountain and road rear derailleurs can be swapped, and the mountain rear derailleurs can take bigger cogs in the back). Then, put on some bigger cassette which works for you - your local bike shop will probably know some cassettes which work well in your area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T19:48:50.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22902" CreationDate="2014-06-08T19:50:52.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always go to a triple chainring at the front. That'll take you down to 30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it'll cost you - you're talking the rings themselves, maybe the front derailleur, likely a new BB, and certainly a new left shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always do both what I suggest and what @Batman suggests - as long as you keep the chain width consistent you can pretty much treat the front and rear mechs as independent. Again though the limiting factor is depth of pockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-08T20:42:55.033" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T20:42:55.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22906" CreationDate="2014-06-08T19:51:19.663" Score="5" ViewCount="21168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used bike but I hate its color and I want to repaint it. I saw some videos on youtube on that. However I found the stuff too expensive. I went to Amazon and I found a black matte paint spray for 5 euros and my idea is to clean the bike and then just spray the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- What happens if I simply do that without removing the rust or removing the old painting? Wouldn't the new painting simply cover everything? Bascially the steps on youtube is to first remove the old painting and remove the rust and then spray a coat (I don't know what a coat is but I think it costs extra 7 euros for the bottle) and then spray with the black matter paint. So what is the effect of not following those steps and directly use the black matter spray? Because the youtube steps would cost me 24 euros or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- The Crankset also lost its color, so I'm thinking to spray that too with the black matte. Is that wrong or bad in anyway?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the pics of my bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f65SG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZFiH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RfOz6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yeah I actually want to spray all of that with simply the black matte spray paint that cost 5 euros because I'm a poor student. (I hope that wouldn't make it uglier!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T16:36:12.597" Title="Painting a bike with minimum cost" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22905" CreationDate="2014-06-08T20:04:55.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like its a steel (CrMo) frame (see if it says this on it somewhere).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/paint-prep.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is a good resource for repainting the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't sand and rough up the old surface, the paint will likely not stick (a  primer helps the paint stick as well). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spraying the crankset is a bad idea - you may get paint in the bottom bracket, or on the chainrings. If you want to spray the arms or something, take it apart and then spray parts that don't touch the drivetrain on their own (in fact, you'll need to strip the bike to spraypaint it properly, or at least guard out the entire drivetrain). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, its not that bad of a color, and as a student, a roughed up bike is less of a target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not going to spend money or the effort to strip it down, I'd say roughing up the surface with a bit of sand paper and brushing on some paint (probably 2 euros more on the whole) would be a better option), but in any case, the bike will look uglier than it does now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T20:04:55.133" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22910" CreationDate="2014-06-08T20:13:25.977" Score="0" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used bike and I want to pimp it up and make it cleaner. I found rust on the chainrings and I would like 1- to remove it and 2- get the original color of the metal back. How to do that? Here are the pics of my bike: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/22905/painting-a-bike-with-minimum-cost#22906&quot;&gt;Painting a bike with minimum cost&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. I need to do that in the cheapest way possible because I'm a poor student.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T21:09:07.803" Title="Restoring the original color of metal and chainrings" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-08T20:38:22.973" Score="4" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a poor student and I bought a used bike. I don't have experience with bikes and I want to make sure that the bike is safe for me because actually I found the bike in a garbage container and the owner offered to sell it for 15 euros. Now I really need to be sure that it's safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw some videos on youtube to understand what gears are and so on and I found that the gears are working and the chain is switching correctly between the chainrings and the cogs. I also checked the breaks handles and I saw that the bike stops correctly when I press them. The rear breaks need a little adjustment to better stop the back tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I did so far is cleaning the bike. Actually I'm so happy about it that I go outside every few minutes just to look at it. I never had a bike when I was a kid but I know how to ride them :). But anyway back to subject!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are what I'm planning to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0- One of the breaks handles are not so tight, so it is safe to leave it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- Remove the rust from the chainrings, cogs, screwdrivers and other parts. (actually i have no idea how to do that and no idea how to do that in a cheap way, so I posted a question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/22907/restoring-the-original-color-of-metal-and-chainrings&quot;&gt;Restoring the original color of metal and chainrings&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- Change entirely all the cables in the bike because I found them rusty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- The tires are completely damaged and I need to fully buy new ones. This is the most expensive thing ever to me since I realized I need to spend 25 euros on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that is basically what I thought of for safety check but I wonder if there are other stuff I need to check or buy/change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pics for my bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yRl0k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RbVvR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mwew0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sxh1i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5EhZR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vozNA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSIsv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More pictures here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/22905/painting-a-bike-with-minimum-cost&quot;&gt;Painting a bike with minimum cost&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T01:20:31.747" Title="Safety check for a used bike" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21897" CreationDate="2014-06-08T20:54:25.270" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jump is when the chain stays on the gear but does not come off the gear - it skips.  Off is when the chain comes off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain tension is more to keep the chain from coming off. Yes chain tension would help jump but if you have badly worn gears / chain the tension is not going to save jump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chain jumps when the chain and or chainring are worn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A keeper is not going to do much to stop jump.  A keeper may help to prevent the chain from coming off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your gears, chain, and rear derailleur are in good shape your chain should not come off even without a font derailleur.  When you look at you derailleur you may think it is there to keep the chain on but it is really just there to move the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain rings are ramped to help them move up.   You can get them that are not not ramped.  Un-ramped chain ring should help a bit.   Un-ramped leaves a little more metal on the chain ring so it should last longer.  I went un-ramped when I converted my mountain bike to a single speed.&#xA;Chainrings for single chain ring set up. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raceface.com/components/rings/rings/single-ring-narrow-wide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RaceSingle&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com//uploads/downloads/Surly_SS_Chainring_06_09.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SurlySingle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From Surly: &#xA;&lt;em&gt;If you are using a single front ring with multiple cogs out back, a chain guide is recommended to prevent the chain from jumping off the chainring.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The XC in this video is set up with single chainring (Race) and no guide. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnz7mEE7MtQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;XCversusTrail&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-20T15:01:04.633" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T15:01:04.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22907" CreationDate="2014-06-08T21:09:07.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt you're going to be able to get the original color of the metal back, and the rust is pretty much aesthetic, so don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to try this, you'd likely need to take the chainrings off the bike (which may require a crank puller, which you likely don't have), use something like phosphoric acid to remove the rust, then either paint them or powder coat them or something to prevent the rust from coming back. By the time you've done this, you could have probably bought a cheap new/used crankset that was rust free to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you could just leave it and not worry about it, like a normal person.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T21:09:07.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21890" CreationDate="2014-06-08T21:33:21.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The edit from freiheit did change the question.  He removed the word firmware.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a software developer and did system support for many years.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Including highly secure systems.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In my world firmware and software are not the same.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Software is compiled - firmware is a raw set of instructions to specific hardware.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes it is possible to password protect firmware but it is not a common practice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not something you would simply add with a firmware update - there is typically hardware involved.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Firmware rarely has a password.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even if firmware does have a password you can typically defeat it by just removing the battery.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Putting a password on a firmware is problematic at best.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Password is a point of failure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is device that is designed for reliability and weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seriously doubt they have security / authority on the firmware.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unless the product came with a default password that you had the option to reset the firmware does not have a password.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must have physically access to attach the device.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Physical security does protect the firmware.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is not something that can be changed without physical access.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If gold medals are at stake then I suggest physical security.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really there are so many things on a bike you could sabotage.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If they got to the bike and you had a password on the firmware they would find something else to sabotage.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If someone wanted to sabotage the device the easiest hack would be to scramble the password.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are worried about tampering while the bike was out of your control then you should inspect all component including the e-tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A router is a great example of firmware and physical security.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(the answer from ewwite that firmware devices are relatively dumb is naive at best)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you connect directly to the router you can set anything.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The assumption is that if you can touch the box you are trusted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gamers is the closest example to your use case.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can password protect the BIOS (firmware) with a password.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In a money tournament the PCs will typically have BIOS passwords.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While you are on break you don't want someone to boot to a floppy and trash your system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T21:12:19.743" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T21:12:19.743" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21890" CreationDate="2014-06-08T22:10:39.657" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an odd question. The sentiment that the only security here &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; physical security is correct. Think about the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Shimano Di2 components are not mated/matched to a specific computer or instance of E-Tube software. So there's no 1:1 relationship.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Therefore, any computer equipped with the SM-PCE1 or SM-BCR2 programming cables can be used to modify the configuration and firmware of the Di2 componentry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This has to be done via the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/ewwhite/9102287351/in/set-72157634251238759/&quot;&gt;junction box/charging port&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firmware can only be downloaded from Shimano and applied through this interface. And while the application has comprehensive logging, it's unique to the computer. There's no audit trail on the devices themselves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since this is the case, &lt;em&gt;where or when&lt;/em&gt; would there be an opportunity to password-protect anything? You could protect your computer, but &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; computer can be used. The devices are relatively dumb, and the firmware is likely overwritten during updates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E-tube is basically used to apply firmware and manage custom settings. You can save presets and load from a configuration file, but firmware is not revved very often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given all of this, use common sense. You can just keep the bike secured or limit access to the bike's junction box (think low-tech, like duct-tape or hot-glue). Or you can inspect settings and check firmware revisions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GIqGm.jpg&quot;&gt;Di2 junction box&lt;/a&gt; is the brain of the system. Someone with ill-intent (and physical access) could just replace the entire module in 30 seconds or so. You're seeking a technological solution to a people problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;pix!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;physical junction box and proprietary port&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GIqGm.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GIqGm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;programming interface recognition&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zQXwR.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zQXwR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;application and communication logging&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2MCn9.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2MCn9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;device settings&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GoRj8.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GoRj8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;firmware revision dialog&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pILhf.png&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pILhf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastEditorUserId="945" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T12:36:53.427" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T12:36:53.427" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22908" CreationDate="2014-06-08T23:16:36.807" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;By far the most reliable way is a visit to the Local Bike shop, find a smaller one with lots of kids bikes and entry level bikes (They know about tight bidgets). It should take less than 5 minutes for them to give you a quick assessment of what needs to be done to make it safe, and most will happily do the assessment for free (especially given they will get a sales of at least 2 tires and tubes) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires and tubes - replace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels - remove from bike and check bearings, adjust if required. If noisy not really a safety issue, but if too loose it is. Check rims for wear from brake pads and big dents. Check spokes for tightness. Check where spokes go into rim for cracks. Ensure the QR levers are tight (They should leave a dent in your palm when you press down to do them up). Check wheels to ensure they are true (Wobble from side to side or up and down) - only a safety problem if the brakes cannot be adjusted tight enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes - Adjust so they are tight. Check pads for wear. Lube cables and replace if budget allows. Frayed rear brake is not a safety issue unless the tension side is frayed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat - check seat post is tight and seat bolted on to seat post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steering / Handlebars - are all attachements tight (stem, handbars, brake levers and shifters). Do the handles bars turn freely and without play in the head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom bracket/Pedels - do they spin freely and smoothly without play. Listen for creeks and grinding noises. Look for cracks and damage to the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame - look for visible cracks - its steel so sudden failure is not likely. Go for a ride and jump up and down a few times, listen... Pick the bike up and drop it onto its wheels from about 300mm. Listen to the bike for rattles, squeaks etc. Some are normal, but it can give away a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear derailuer and shifters - not really a safety issue unless the chain jumps off and jams. , but do read up how to tune it. Make sure the chain stays on the cogs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-06-08T23:29:42.820" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T23:29:42.820" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21890" CreationDate="2014-06-08T23:35:01.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps instead of password protecting it, you might want to think of ways you could detect that the device was tampered with. I'm not certain how often you would change settings or plug into it, but you may want to cover the port with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uline.ca/Grp_224/Security-Tape&quot;&gt;security tape&lt;/a&gt; or something similar so that you are aware when somebody has been messing with the equipment. This may not be the best solution, but perhaps someone more familiar with the hardware could offer a solution to detect tampering with the hardware that would work better. Or perhaps you should just have your desired settings and firmware backed up and reload them before each ride or race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T23:35:01.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22935" CreationDate="2014-06-09T00:11:36.560" Score="1" ViewCount="9197" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a SRAM Red 22 group set that has a standard crank (53/39), and I also own a SRAM Red 10 speed crank with compact chainrings.  I'll be doing some climbing soon and would like to use the compact that I have already.  I can't swap just the chainrings due to different BCD sizes (130 on the 22 and 110 on the 10 speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use the Red 10 speed crank (and compact rings) with the rest of the Red 22 group set, or do I have to bite the bullet and buy compact chainrings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12547" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T20:16:55.030" Title="Using a Sram 22 group with 10 speed crank" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-09T01:51:09.250" Score="3" ViewCount="3331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a beloved but well used front wheel built around an old &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=8E25B852-D341-409B-9053-548B73A3D85B&amp;amp;Enum=110&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mavic 500 hub&lt;/a&gt; whose bearings are finally starting to give up the ghost. If you hold the axle and spin the wheel you can feel it grind through a few spots in the rotation as well as hear a nice few clicks as the bearings stick in the cartridge's raceways. I'm pretty convinced they need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is however a lock ring that is preventing me from getting the bearings out. There is a special tool (the Mavic 670) that looks like similar to a bottom bracket tool except it has six pins that fit into each of the six little holes on the hub's lock ring. I found a few of them on ebay for the reasonable price of $90. Needless to say I would like to try to get the lock ring off without purchasing the &quot;rare and vintage Mavic Key 670 Bottom Bracket and Hub Assembly Tool&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave it a try with a spanner wrench but only succeeded in stripping out one of the soft aluminum holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if the lock rings are reverse or regular threaded? Any advice for trying to free them without using Mavic's proprietary tool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12549" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T23:04:20.423" Title="Maintence on Mavic 500 hub without Mavic 670 tool" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22916" CreationDate="2014-06-09T02:19:22.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try carefully using an adjustable pin spanner, or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/pin-spanner-red-spa-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park variant&lt;/a&gt;. If not, I believe current Mavic hubs use the same pin pattern, so the plastic tools that come with Mavic wheelsets is plentiful and &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be strong enough for your use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UAzJn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T02:19:22.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-09T09:33:21.090" Score="0" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a proud owner of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2013/archive/trek/slash_7/#/us/en/archive-model/details?url=us/en/bikes/2013/archive/trek/slash_7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; guy. The crankset is &lt;code&gt;SRAM S1200, 36/22&lt;/code&gt; and the FD is &lt;code&gt;SRAM X7, direct mount&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the cage on the FD broke, and I ordered &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/m786-xt-10-speed-double-front-derailleur-direct-mount-dual-pull-ec029255#features&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; item in a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1) Dyna-Sys 10-speed design – for use with Dyna-Sys 10-speed MTB drivetrains.&#xA;&#xA;2) Specifically developed for 68 and 73 mm bottom bracket shells with a 48.8 mm chain line &#xA;&#xA;3) 66-69 degree chainstay to seat tube angle range.&#xA;&#xA;4) 44-38 tooth outer ring compatible, total capacity 14 teeth&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)  I have heard Shimano and SRAM FDs are compatible  - is that true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) 73mm BB - check, 48.8mm chain line - how do I check this? Is it correct to measure with a ruler from the center of the frame to the middle of the two chainrings? I doubt I can get accurace better than a couple of mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) 66-69 degrees chainstay - check - it it inscribed on the old FD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) The tooth capacity is OK, but my big ring is 2 teeth too large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, can this equipment work together or be made to work together, or do I need to toss it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T09:33:21.090" Title="Is this FD compatible with this crankset: 2 teeth too litle" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22932" CreationDate="2014-06-09T10:35:40.940" Score="9" ViewCount="1884" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 Years ago, when I was 14, I got my first road bike. It costed around 1000 € (~1350$), and I have been using it every year. I have cycled at least 1.000 km every season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have started to ask myself: should I buy a new road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only carbon my current bike has is the carbon fork. But beside that, you can see the bike below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing an average ~1000 € road bike from approximately 10 years ago, to a 1000-1500 € road bike today, what kind of differences would there be? What kind of technology has developed during this time, that leads to an improvement on the bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, after 10 years of use, will there be some wear of the bike that you can feel if you buy a new bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pictures of my bike&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zEzmZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VEls.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n2l83.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12554" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T10:14:31.260" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T10:14:31.260" Title="Benefits of newer racer bikes over older ones?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;technology&gt;&lt;upgrade-or-new-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="16" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22928" CreationDate="2014-06-09T12:55:35.077" Score="-1" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I found this used old bike in the junk. My experience with bikes was zero, so in order to fix it I had to learn about bikes on youtube and other places. What I understood is that one can basically build a bike from scratch. I saw some websites were you can buy every single piece of a bike and then assemble them all to make a customized one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I looked on the frames on some of the new racing or fancy bikes and then compared to my junkie bike I found the frames almost identical in terms of shape. Of course there was a huge difference in terms of the fancy equipments but to me the most important pattern was that the frame was identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked couple questions here regarding fixing the bike or painting it, and one time I got a response: &quot;are you really going to spend too much money on that junkie bike?&quot;. Then I asked myself the question as to what is the difference between a junkie bike and a new fancy one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean if I spend money on new parts AND considering that the frame is identical to fancy bikes, wouldn't that simply make it as valuable as a new fancy bike? Suppose that every year I change a part and at the end I paint it very well, would that still make it a junkie bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in the answer to know if it is really worth it to spend money on it or not. Because if it is worth it, then maybe I can sell it and make money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pictures for the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/22905/painting-a-bike-with-minimum-cost&quot;&gt;Painting a bike with minimum cost&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/22908/safety-check-for-a-used-bike&quot;&gt;Safety check for a used bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T14:48:02.403" Title="The difference between a junkie bike and a racing bike?" Tags="&lt;upgrade-or-new-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22927" CreationDate="2014-06-09T13:01:51.257" Score="3" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found an old bike and I am not experienced with bikes. I am wondering if these brakes need to be changed: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmCtr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if this is in all bikes, but the mechanism of the brakes looks too old to me. You just press the brakes and those cables get stretched and the bike stops. Is that ok/normal and safe?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T13:18:50.433" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T15:19:43.563" Title="Safety of old brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22929" CreationDate="2014-06-09T13:08:10.187" Score="0" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this old junkie bike and I want to use it. I don't have very much experience with bikes, and I noticed that that the speed shifters and the brake handles are one piece together. Is that normal? Do they normally come as one piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I was thinking of getting new brake handles but I don't want to change the shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GRK6w.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vH8dY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T15:05:59.873" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T23:43:55.140" Title="The shifters and brakes are one piece" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22930" CreationDate="2014-06-09T13:22:32.917" Score="0" ViewCount="11304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a MTB Ghost SE 2000 frame which has a 1 1/8&quot; head tube. I just measured it and it has a 44mm diameter top and bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to replace the stock fork. However it is hard to find non-tapered forks at a good price. My question is, is it possible to put 1,5&quot; tapered fork into this specific head tube? Maybe with some special headset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tDiML.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike detail: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ghost-bikes.com/bikes-2013/bike-detail/se-2000/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ghost-bikes.com/bikes-2013/bike-detail/se-2000/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12557" LastEditorUserId="7984" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T16:21:05.080" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T09:46:43.153" Title="Tapered fork into 44mm head tube?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22922" CreationDate="2014-06-09T14:39:19.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are cantilever brakes and as long as the cables are still intact, everything works as it should and the pads still have plenty of material left, they're perfectly fine. From the photo it looks like the pads are still okay, but replacing them can never hurt. A drop of oil on the hinges might not be a bad idea, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="3497" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T22:57:24.940" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T22:57:24.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22921" CreationDate="2014-06-09T14:48:02.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the pictures you've posted across a few different questions, I can almost guarantee you will not make money selling that bike, no matter what you do to it. At the very least you will need a new freewheel and chain, new tyres, cables, and brake pads. Sadly, those will probably set you back more than you could sell the bike for. Given your apparent lack of mechanical know-how, you really should leave the repairs to a professional mechanic, which will further add to the costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you underestimate the differences between your &quot;junkie&quot; bike and modern &quot;fancy&quot; bikes. Yes, you can buy the componentry found on &quot;fancy&quot; bikes separately, but most of it will be designed to fit modern frames, which more than likely have different diameter tubing. Although you should be able to find new parts to replace the knackered ones, they are unlikely to be of high quality. Whatever you do to that bike, it will still be heavy and cumbersome. One can't polish a turd, as they say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern, more expensive frames and components are generally lighter, stiffer, smoother, better-fitting, and better-looking... none of which are essential for getting around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have much of a budget, the best thing would be to find a local bike co-op and learn how to perform basic maintenance from volunteer mechanics. Otherwise, I'd donate that bike to such a project, and buy something a bit nicer second-hand. Or just get your LBS to do the bare minimum to make it rideable, ride it til it falls apart, then get a new one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T14:48:02.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22923" CreationDate="2014-06-09T14:59:27.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is pretty normal on entry-level mountain bikes. Shimano claims this is to not confuse beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torney, Altus, Acera and Alivio groupsets come this way, at least by default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Acera and Alivio are getting better and better with the trickle-down tecknowogy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/acera_9-speed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, in the upper corner &quot;Components&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T23:43:55.140" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T23:43:55.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22925" CreationDate="2014-06-09T15:13:23.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Cane Creek makes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.canecreek.com/p/40-ec44-40-bottom-assembly?pp=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;headset bottom&lt;/a&gt; for exactly this problem. I've used it on my MTB and it has worked just fine for over year. It does require that the original frame use zero stack or interior headset. But it looks like yours does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: in the general case with a true 1-1/8&quot; ( i.e. 34mm interior diameter, exterior headset cups), there isn't enough interior space to use a tapered fork.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Cane Creek Headset FAQ. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cane Creek was the first headset company to offer a tapered solution for 1-1/8&quot; head-tubes. Called XX-44, this bottom assembly enabled the use of 1-1/8&quot; to 1.5&quot; tapered forks on straight, 44mm head-tubes. This gave consumers more options, and frame designers more flexibility when creating the perfect ride.&#xA;Due to the popularity of the design, the EC44/40 (External Cup for 44mm head-tube, 40mm crown race seat) Bottom is now available in both the class-leading 40-Series and the premium 110-Series of headsets. This tapered solution fits 44mm head-tubes only; a &quot;traditional&quot; 1-1/8&quot;, 34mm version is not available.&#xA;Please note: Nominal insertion bore depth for 44mm head-tubes is 9mm. EC44/40 requires an insertion depth of 15mm. Park Tool Reamer 788 should be used with the supplied spacer to reach the 15mm bore depth for EC44/40 Bottoms.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T18:07:25.653" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T18:07:25.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22902" CreationDate="2014-06-09T15:33:33.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2 cents. I have tried it both ways (50/34) with MTB cassette on the back 11-34&#xA;and a triple 26/39/52 and 12-27. In the long run the triple just works much better for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that compact doubles (50/34) only work well if you can do almost all your&#xA;riding in the big ring, except for the long climbs. Where I live and ride, I found that I was constantly having to double shift for the typical rolling terrain. I could never find the &quot;right&quot; gear for certain speeds. Also, on the very low end there is a fairly large gap in the low gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The range of gears is pretty similar for both setups, it's the exact distribution that is different. I think if I could get a 48/30 compact double ( Orange Velo makes one) the compact double could work for me with a 12-27 cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try renting or borrowing a road bike with a triple to see if it's worth the extra cost for you. Unfortunately, road triples come with 30t as the lower gear, you can replace that with a 28 or 26 t gear. This makes it hard to really figure out if it's right for you, as 30/27 is not as low as 34/34. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T15:33:33.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22920" CreationDate="2014-06-09T16:33:49.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL; DR&lt;/strong&gt;: There is going to be a lot of difference. A 1500 Euro bike today would probably be comparable to a 6-7000 Euro bike from 10 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elaboration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are going to be quite a few improvements in the bike due to technology advances and research and development. Some of the base models will not be radically different from your frame, although even there, there are some differences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First is frame composition, in that quite a few (even entry level) racing bikes are now all carbon. This is enabled as when a bike is first created, there are a lot of research and development costs that have to be offset. After a few years, that is offset, and the &quot;top&quot; model often becomes the &quot;middle&quot; model as a new frame is developed for the high end of the scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of rides that are fairly similar in shape, and are entry level road bikes. Note the Giant has the cutout (1500 Euro), and the Specialized Allez does not (1250 Euro). The Allez is aluminum, the Giant is carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F6hH2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVfhc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second is the frame shape and tube shapes. For the entry level, you may not see a lot of difference (Especially in the known name brands), but almost all still have top tubes that slope downward towards the seat tube, and a few have smaller cutouts for the rear wheel. When you move up the price ladder, tubes start changing shape, and aerodynamic considerations become much more dramatic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see in the Specialized Venge below, the top tube slopes away from the headset, and the seat tube is notched much more than the entry level rides to accommodate a tire being closer and more protected, which increases aerodynamics. The tubes are also more oval/wing shaped, rather than round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aqeYL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to step up in price, you can look at the Cervelo S5 (Cervelo is arguably the best bike company around for understanding aerodynamics), which has a much more protected rear wheel, the forks more integrated with the frame, and much cleaner lines throughout.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SqdGS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final area is the trickle down technology in the groupsets, which consists of your derailleurs, brifters (brake/shifter combination), brakesets. The Shimano 105 and SRAM Force groupsets, which you typically find on the more entry level bikes are comparable to the Dura Ace and Red groups of 4-5 years ago, and as the top levels advance, the technology of the former top groups starts falling down to the next tiers below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In bikes, you can have light, cheap and reliable. You get to pick any two from that list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastEditorUserId="4481" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T17:47:14.860" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T17:47:14.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22920" CreationDate="2014-06-09T18:25:02.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your current bike has decent wheels and reasonable components. If they have been maintained well I don't think you'll see much difference there other than 10spd gearing. The big change to a new bike in that price range will be the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is much easier now to get a frame that actually fits your riding style, I see you have an adjustable angle stem. Since carbon frames allow a lot more design freedom and riders have come around to the idea that the typical rider does not need a &quot;racing&quot; bike unless they are actually racing, it's much easier to get a frame that actually fits you and your riding style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new bike will be lighter and you'll feel like it's faster, but it won't be that much faster in a typical ride. Humans are very low power engines so even a little loss in bike weight will make the bike accelerate faster, but you'll still get to the same limits in top speed. Climbing will be a bit easier, but not much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes have gotten much more expensive in the last 10 years, 1500 euros is entry level at this point. You can get a nice bike in that price range, but some of the components will not be a nice as the ones you currently have. If you like the gearing and the way the shifters work on your current bike, you might consider upgrading just the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should demo a current bike and decide if you like the shape and fit of the middle range Shimano and SRAM brifters. Having a bike that is comfortable and fits well far outweighs any minor gains in lost weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T18:25:02.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22915" CreationDate="2014-06-09T20:16:55.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they use the same bottom bracket, it's at least worth trying. While 9,10,11 speed chains are different widths on the outside, they are the same width on the inside so&#xA;there is a reasonable chance that a 10 speed front crank will work with an 11 speed chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have successfully used 10 spd cranks and rings with a 9 speed chain. I see two potential problems with the swap you want to make. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your front derailler is not designed to work with 50/34 rings and it may not shift well. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The slightly wider gap of a 10 spd crankset may get the 11 speed chain caught in between the chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two is the killer problem, take the crank and 11 speed chain and see if it getting&#xA;caught between the rings is a real problem. If not, it's worth a shot. You won't break anything by trying it and you'll have to decide if you can live with the changes in shifting performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T20:16:55.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21849" CreationDate="2014-06-09T23:53:50.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you are using an 11-speed Campy chain, and are willing to lose some gear range if you have a mechanical, I'd recommend you carry 1 or 2 spare pins for your chain and a good chain tool. You're not going to be able to carry a shop-quality chain tool on your bike, but this folding one by Park is a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/folding-chain-tool-with-peening-anvil-ct-6-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/folding-chain-tool-with-peening-anvil-ct-6-3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your chain breaks during a ride you will need to remove a link and reconnect with the new pin. Assuming your chain was properly sized to begin with, with one (or more) link removed you'll be able to use fewer of the bigger cogs of your cassette in combination with your big ring, and possibly your small ring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the advice to check your chain regularly is a good one. I use a Park tool for that as it is the most accurate, and easiest of the chain checkers I've used. Rather than always replacing chain and cassette together, there are cassette checkers as well, or you can tell if the cassette is worn if a new chain doesn't go on and off the cogs smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ridden many thousands of miles on randonnees/brevets and for chain repair, only carry a chain tool and Wippermann Connex link. I've have had only one chain failure. That was 30 miles into LEL. It was caused because the chain got jammed during transit. To untangle it I had to break the chain with the only chain tool available. (I'd packed a different tool than I normally carry and hadn't checked it before I left.) The chain tool damaged the link so the new pin worked itself out after a short distance. The Wippermannn link saved my ride. If Wippermann manufactures a Connex link in the future that is compatible with 11-speed Campy, I'd recommend you carry that rather than a spare pin. It is also useful if you're packing your bike for flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as Campy on brevets, I personally ride Shimano, but know several randonneurs more experienced than I who use Campy. The best thing you can do is keep your bike well-maintained and &quot;figure it out&quot; if something goes wrong. You can't carry enough stuff to fix anything that can go wrong, and there may be no bike shops on the route at all. Improvising is part of the fun of randonneuring!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonne route!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastEditorUserId="12565" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T00:07:01.410" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T00:07:01.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21886" CreationDate="2014-06-10T01:44:19.063" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;One solution not mentioned so far: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/wheels-tires/tire-savers-never-seen-them-anymore-149983.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tyre savers&lt;/a&gt;. Rather than trying to stop and wipe glass off the tyre and embed it in your gloves or hands, install a small piece of wire that does this continuously. &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/06/05/preventing-flat-tires-one-year-of-tire-wipers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;They might even work&lt;/a&gt;. I've seen them used by a couple of people, and those people thought they were great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The theory is that they brush off any protruding glass before it has a chance to get pushed into the tyre. If you think that brushing the tyre off is a good idea, these obviously work much better since they act immediately rather than trying to brush stuff off after it's been round the wheel a few times and is well embedded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to make a set up using old spokes bent into shape, the tubing is fairly optional as long as your wheels are round. If there's a bump or irregularity some sort of flxible coupling is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tVTsA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tyre savers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bIJ8W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tyre saver fitted&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IMPORTANT&lt;/strong&gt;: the tyre save must be attached so that they trail the movement of the tyre, never leading. If they catch on the tyre you want them to be pulled off the bike rather than jamming between the wheel and frame. At best they'll get pushed into the tyre and you'll get the puncture you were trying to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T01:44:19.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2014-06-10T02:32:55.537" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Tyre Saver&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small loop of wire attached so that it rubs continuously on the tyre as it rotates. This brushes off debris and reduces the number of punctures. These were popular mainly in the 1970's and 1980's, with the advent of lightweight puncture-resistant tyres they have almost disappeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tVTsA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tyre saver&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T02:32:55.537" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-06-10T02:32:55.537" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22940" CreationDate="2014-06-10T02:58:07.227" Score="5" ViewCount="2514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in buying turn signal lights for bicycles. I read something about here and in other websites, but I did not find answers for the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the point of view of a driver, is it better to use a hand signal or if a turn signal light?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it safer? How much (are there any statistics)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What are your personal opinion? I think a bit difficult to balance while making signals with my arm, so I thought about using these lights. Since cars are not familiar with bike in streets (where I live at least), I thought about using a super strong turn signal lights.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you recommend any particular type? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12568" LastEditorUserId="26152" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T11:27:00.373" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T11:27:00.373" Title="Turn signal lights for bikes" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;signals&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22939" CreationDate="2014-06-10T03:23:44.620" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend learning to do arm signals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arm signals don't run out of batteries, and are plenty visible in most cases. They're certainly bigger than the turn signal lights you could put on a bicycle (which as Moz points out in a comment, makes distinguishing the 2 turn signals a possible issue), and the distance you need to see a bike turning is a lot smaller than that which you need to see a car turning.You also have to worry about running wires from the back to front if you only have one power source (and the indicator switch isn't wireless) and worry about bags or other things obscuring the lights. Your handlebar area also becomes a bit more cluttered for a turn signal anyway, esp if you have trigger shifters. And you have to deal with the potential of the lights getting stolen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At night, the primary value would be moreso the extra light rather than the fact that it was a turn signal light, and you can get that just by putting on a bigger head and tail light.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get used to balancing while doing them after a few weeks of riding, typically. And in any case, you need to know how to do them when your batteries run out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO, the primary use of turn signals on a bike is less-so that you know which way a turn is happening, but moreso that the drivers know the cyclist is going to do something and be prepared for it (a sentiment echoed by one of the comments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T15:00:02.990" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T15:00:02.990" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23296" CreationDate="2014-06-10T03:36:01.270" Score="0" ViewCount="3036" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mountain bike has a BB30 bottom bracket that was clicking under power. The bike is only a month old, so I figured, break in period, and I took the crank off and greased everything up with teflon grease. I coated everything I could get my hands on in the grease, and re-tightened the crank to the specified torque ( 430 inch pounds ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much to my frustration, the clicking is back when under power, after riding a mile or two. What is my next plan of attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Updates: I tested a different pair of pedals to rule out the pedal bearings ( no, I didn't swap left for right ). I tried tightening the chainring bolts several days ago, no changes there. The crankset is some sort of SRAM Truative triple. Unlike the cranksets I've owned in the past, there's a ring on the non-drive side with an arrow on it, I'm wondering if it's a suspect at this point.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7k6sH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;crankset&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q9HW2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;non-drive-side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T19:46:10.267" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T18:38:29.420" Title="BB30 bottom bracket won't stop clicking" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16584" CreationDate="2014-06-10T05:18:27.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time traveling here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that type of spalling occurs after several thousand miles, then that's most likely normal wear from the little bit of play vs road vibration, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that occurs within 200 miles, then it means your cone nuts are too tight.  Some people here say there should be no play, but that is incorrect.  There should be a tiny bit of play in the axle/bearings.  If you smack the axle, you should hear it tap lightly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have it too tight, you'll feel very little or zero play, but when you twist the axle by hand, you will feel it grab or catch very slightly.  Or, if you hold it by the axle ends and spin the wheel, you'll see it grab periodically (change in friction makes it twist a little in your hands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the minor imperfections in the races and the bearings fighting each other.  There should be just a tiny bit more space than the largest imperfection combinations (for a micron or two of grease).  That means, most of the spacing will have just a tiny bit of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that every hub is a little different, but it usually takes 5-10 tweaks to get just the right amount of play when reassembling the wheel bearings/axle/cones/locknuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12569" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T05:18:27.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24122" CreationDate="2014-06-10T12:17:35.187" Score="5" ViewCount="2864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 10-year old bike, fitted with hydraulic disk brakes. The bike has been actively used for around 4 years only though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, my brake levers started to have more and more &quot;play&quot; before the bike actually starts braking. A kind of a &quot;dead zone&quot; where nothing happens, just like if there was not enough oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to the store to fix it, twice, but it keeps coming back. They say something may be stuck (&quot;bourrage&quot; in french, as ugly as it sounds). They told me they bled the brakes, but at this point I'm not sure anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I'd like to fix this myself, once and for all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes are the only thing I've been afraid to fiddle with, so far, so that's why I'm coming here for advices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any &quot;fixing your hydraulic disk brakes 101&quot; or equivalent? A guide I could follow to check things in order. Shall I check brake pads first, then oil, then... A flowchart would be lovely!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: &lt;strong&gt;What to check first to fix hydraulic disk brakes?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastEditorUserId="8322" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T19:58:55.450" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T02:33:32.047" Title="Fixing hydraulic disk brakes, what to check first?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-10T12:24:23.893" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I got a used bike and my experience with bikes is very limited. The tires and tubes are all broken so I need to get new ones. I found these tires: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fahrrad.de/continental-speed-king-set-26-zoll-draht-362100.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fahrrad.de/continental-speed-king-set-26-zoll-draht-362100.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I found these tubes for the tires: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fahrrad.de/fahrradteile/reifen-schlaeuche/rcp-fahrradschlauch-26-zoll-universal/285443.html?eqrecqid=be78e9d1-f097-11e3-804f-c8600056a33a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fahrrad.de/fahrradteile/reifen-schlaeuche/rcp-fahrradschlauch-26-zoll-universal/285443.html?eqrecqid=be78e9d1-f097-11e3-804f-c8600056a33a&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but when I select the tubes the website asks me for the kind of valves I need. How to select that? Should I select the valves according to a criteria or should I get any valves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T12:45:12.707" Title="How to select a tube?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2014-06-10T12:40:08.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a horse owner I can answer this from experience. If approaching the horse from behind it is important to slow down, as you approach the horse shout 'bike' or make some noise - bikes are very quiet and if you suddenly 'appear' in the horses line of vision and it didn't hear you approach you'll spook it. Pass wide and slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If approaching from the front, some horses can be spooked if you stand on your pedals which makes the bike rock from side to side, so if pedalling uphill be aware of this! again slow down and observe the horse.  if it's head raises and it's eyes are fixed on you be aware it may not like the look of you and be prepared to stop and dismount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12571" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T12:40:08.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22944" CreationDate="2014-06-10T12:45:12.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some rims have a small-diameter drilling for presta valves, so a schraeder (car-type) valve won't fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your rim is drilled for schraeder valves, you can use presta valves, but you should use a plastic adapter sleeve to hold the valve in position and avoid wear to the valve stem or the edge of the drilling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T12:45:12.707" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-10T13:03:26.370" Score="2" ViewCount="6316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to change all the cables in my bike. My knowledge in bikes is limited. As i found there are cables for the brakes and cables for the shifters. My question is: are those cables all the same? i.e. if I want to change the shifters and brakes cables, should I only buy two quantities of breaks cables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I found these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fahrrad.de/fahrradteile/felgenbremsen-zubehoer/clarks-universal-bremszug-komplett-kit-vorne/337558.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fahrrad.de/fahrradteile/felgenbremsen-zubehoer/clarks-universal-bremszug-komplett-kit-vorne/337558.html&lt;/a&gt; and I wonder if I should order two quantities or one of this and some other kind of cables for the shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. do I need to buy a cable for each brake handle? Does that mean I need to buy 2 just for the brakes and also 2 for the shifters? Viz, 4 boxes of that in the website?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T23:29:50.493" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T23:29:50.493" Title="Difference in brakes and switcher cables?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22947" CreationDate="2014-06-10T14:23:26.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standard brake cables are 1.6mm thick and have either a cylindrical end perpendicular to the cable for MTB-style levers, or an inline stepped-cylinder (like a pear) for road-style levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard gear cables are 1.2mm thick and have a smaller cylindrical end, inline (cable enters circular face).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;By standard, I mean both Shimano and Campagnolo use these gauges and end-styles and I'm not aware of any other variety used by gear or brake levers in current popular use...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T14:23:26.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6703" CreationDate="2014-06-10T15:18:03.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old question now, but maybe worth adding something for anyone browsing the topic online generally.  From the OP's query it seems to me he's not asking about how to clean his rims or if his cables need servicing, he's asking how to make his brakes work better. Old block compounds in old blocks = very bad idea to retain these. Similar recent experience with myself with similar equipment showed a VERY large improvement with Kool Stop's &quot;Salmon&quot; blocks.  Like someone had added a servo to the system. On a good day the old ones helped a little to modulate speed but weren't interested in stopping the bike even with cable-stretching lever squeeze force applied.  Setting them up correctly too of course is a must. Lots of advice available online how to do that, no point in repeating it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next step has to be changing the brakes for dual pivot calipers - they have on average double the mechanical advantage of single pivot jobs - you only have to look carefully at the design and measure approximately the length of actuating arm either side of the pivot then compare the same measurements to typical single pivot jobs.  You lose some sensitivity of modulation with the added leverage the doubles provide, but soon learn to adapt.  The extra safety achieved by sharpening up your brake system adds mightily to the pleasure or riding generally - but it's still a bad idea to approach junctions too fast in case of mishaps. (Nag Nag, etc) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12572" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T15:18:03.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6497" CreationDate="2014-06-10T16:36:41.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a Canondale Super X cyclocross bike for CX racing, triathlon racing, and road training/riding (I don't race road). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swap a straight post (Thompson Masterpiece) and road saddle (Adamo Prologue) for road and triathlons (stock carbon with setback post and a Selle Italia Diva saddle for cross).&#xA;I swap wheelsets too - burlier wheelset with Racing Ralphs and a 25/11 cassette for cross racing, lighter wheelset with a 28/11 cassette for gravel grinding, triathlon racing, and road racing. &#xA;My bike has a 46/38 front ring. Great for cross racing; I do spin it out on road downhills and I tend to cross race staying in my smaller 38 ring, so I could eventually swap out the 46 for something bigger if I wanted to road race. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason this set up works well is because it is a full carbon bike and I'm not a road racer. &#xA;This is a GREAT bike for centuries - super comfortable. &#xA;I bought it used for around $1500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7964" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T16:36:41.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21889" CreationDate="2014-06-10T16:58:45.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For anyone reading this who lacks the ££££ or even $$$$ to pay for a &quot;full bike fit&quot;, there are books around that explain it all pretty well, I've never had a full bike fit despite being a rather oddly proportioned individual (shortish arms and trunk, short bullish neck and longish legs)&#xA;A book I esteem highly is called &quot;Richard's Bicycle Book&quot;.  Which is quite possibly out of print but even so does turn up on ebay at prices even I wouldn't jib at.  Author is Richard Ballantyne. He explains the ins and outs of getting the settings all tuned up to your own peculiar needs.&#xA;As well as setting up your bike, just about everything else bike related is covered - it's a kind of cyclist's bible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12572" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T16:58:45.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22953" CreationDate="2014-06-10T18:20:43.747" Score="1" ViewCount="17247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to the big differences in the feel and ride of a hardtail vs a full suspension mountain bike. Also, which types of riding/trails are each better suited for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12563" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T18:26:49.107" Title="Major differences between Hardtail and Full Suspension mtn bikes" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-06-11T12:46:56.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22952" CreationDate="2014-06-10T18:40:36.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is as simple as full suspension feels like suspension on both wheels and hard tail feels like the front only.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the full suspension for more and bigger bumps.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also for landing jumps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard tail is lighter and the pedal action is more efficient.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The frame is stiffer laterally (more efficient).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The rear shock on a full suspension will absorb part of the pedal energy (very little as it is designed to minimize this).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For lighter bumps.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The tail will get bounced around (much) more than full suspension.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bouncing a real wheel is typically not going to drop you but you are not getting traction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will typically see downhill riders on full suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On single track it goes both ways.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your preference and the nature of the single track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trials riders will ride hardtail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tricks like a bunny hop are easier on a hardtail (I think). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are learning technique then I would go hard tail as it more forces you to pick a line.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to bang through some ruff stuff then full suspension.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tend to take harder falls on a full suspension as you can go faster on the bumps.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And when those bumps are rocks it hurts.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And when you ding a $1500 frame it stings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to get full suspension then get a good one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In looking at cost and weight of FRAME ONLY.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am going to compare Niner as that is what I ride and what I know best.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hard tail frame: Ross 9 large frame weighs 1,680g and retail list for $899&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Soft tail frame: Jet 9 large frame weighs 2,980 and retail list is $1849&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now those are higher end frames and the difference is $1000 and 3 lbs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the mid range the difference might be $400&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't buy a low end full suspension!    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My two cents:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't buy full suspension for your first mountain bike&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Learn technique on a hard tail&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are lots of times when you going to want to ride a hard tail&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Make it your second bike and be ready to spend some coin&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The guys and girls riding a full suspension for what it is are good and are on $3000+ bikes  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My three cents:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Upgrade your hard tail to tubeless and go 2.25 (or 2.4 in the rear if you can) in the rear&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not the same but at lower pressure you get less bounce (for NO weight)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And you get the grip of conforming to rocks and roots&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And you get no pinch flats&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For less weight than the full suspension    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-11T18:26:49.107" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T18:26:49.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-10T20:19:59.497" Score="8" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dutch city bike (similar to the one shown below) with broad tires that I use for commuting short distances. When traveling on roads with a slight tilt (left to right, perpendicular to the road), I often find myself feeling unbalanced, as if tilt of the road is exerting a force on my tires, pushing me against the tilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong? Can something be wrong with the bike/tires or is it just &quot;me&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtRa2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12576" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-11T09:15:49.010" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T15:59:36.940" Title="Riding a bike on a tilted road" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18767" CreationDate="2014-06-10T20:52:07.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottom bracket sizes needed :-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For M131 :- BB-UN 26 Length - 122.5mm&#xA;For M311 :- BB-UN 26(K) length 123 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little late in seeing this post but hope it helps. I upgraded my hybrid but needed to replace my bb as there was much wider difference as I was only on a single, I was surprised how wide it was, any smaller and inner teeth won't get the proper line and chain will rub on the inner off the chainstay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12578" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T20:52:07.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22954" CreationDate="2014-06-10T20:55:02.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a full answer&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is too much for a comment&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Please don't vote this down&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But don't vote this up either   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for tire size that is not the problem.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My theory is you need to correct but I cannot demonstrate how much.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A larger tire is good as you will get the same amount of traction for less force.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike geometry is designed to hold a line on a flat cant.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hold a bike by the seat and balance it on flat ground the front wheel will be straight.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you tilt the seat to one side or the other the front wheel will turn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is how you can ride with no hands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you change the slope under the bike it is going to affect the natural line also.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran a test where I tilted board under the bike compared to tilting the bike on the board.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What I found was the wheel consistently pointed down hill - which made sense.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this needs a free state diagram that mechanical engineers do and I don't know how to do those.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully a frame designer will get on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T23:17:34.937" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T23:17:34.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21901" CreationDate="2014-06-11T02:51:30.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;we have similar problems here in Scotland although some paths are shared on busy roads, and marked as such. There are also areas where there are cycle lanes on some of the busy roads but they never put no parking signs up, so cars keep parking and blocking the lanes. Sadly the footpath there is too narrow to cycle but tried complaining but nothing done so far. One remedy may be to see if the is a cycling liason officer to discus the problem, or some cycle clubs like the CTC here works with local councils to find ways to make cycling easier, a final way is possibly petitioning other cyclists.&#xA;So far I have been ok here as the police turn a blind eye as they know the road can be dangerous, especially at peak times. Only other remedy is find a quieter route, you pays your money and takes your choice my friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12578" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T02:51:30.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-11T10:27:15.000" Score="1" ViewCount="8516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am on a hard tail 29er and this is my first time going tubeless. I will be mounting 2.4 Maxxis DHF to a carbon 35 mm rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I am going is remote, quite rooty, and there are lots of technical small-rock gardens as well as broccoli and smaller rocky trails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to go with lower pressure, maybe 20 psi. But I don't want a burp in a rough descending off camber turn and then have to pull out a spare or have to try to get the tire re-seated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be using gorilla tape on the rim instead of the 'official' tape, no diff there and save a few bucks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw them apply a milky coating the last time my car tires were installed and the shop guy said it was a water soluble latex to help bed and seal the tire to the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people use a mild soapy water to wet the tire when mounting. Given that &#xA;I am using Stan's or Slimepro, would it help to apply a thin film of the solution to the tire bead when mounting them on the rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;edit 1: What I did in the end&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before mounting the tire on the rim I watched the Slime Pro how-to video on YouTube&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xR1d8RbAXy0&amp;amp;feature=kp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slime Pro - Official How To Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I guess that answers it, yes, &lt;strong&gt;it is recommended to use the sealant as the tire bead bedding solution&lt;/strong&gt; as far as Slime Pro is concerned. Also, I tried that, exactly as shown in the video with a toothbrush and got my 'two loud pops' and a bubble free (perfect seal) of 2.4 Maxxis Minion DHF on a 35mm wide 29er rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sealant, which is slippery and stays liquid actually for quite a while (definitely more than 5 minutes) seems to be excellent as a tire bedding solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a really tough time getting my last tire (2.35 Hans Dampf) on the rim. That one took forever to get on the rim (at least 5 minutes) and the sealant I applied to the tire and the rim stayed lubed until I was ready to air. Also a perfect seal and some good 'pops' when airing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;edit 2: What the local bike shops do&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I inquired at 4 well-known local bike shops in the area to find out how they do tubeless mounts. All of the service departments said that they use the sealant (Stans Tubeless Sealant) instead of soap and water for tire bead mounting. So it turns out that no-one around here actually uses soap and water any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11471" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:22:15.820" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:22:15.820" Title="Is there any advantage to preparing the tire bead with sealant during installation on the rim" Tags="&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22954" CreationDate="2014-06-11T11:56:04.500" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you feel no &quot;tilt&quot; on a flat road then there is probably nothing wrong.  A bike's steering geometry is designed as a compromise, using terms such as &quot;rake&quot;, &quot;head angle&quot;, and &quot;trail&quot;.  A bike designed for agility will generally have a geometry that makes it turn downhill on a slope (if you let go of the handlebar), but a bike designed for stability (such as yours) will tend to turn uphill.  This tendency is amplified by the wider, lower pressure tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that there is anything wrong with the bike, unless this effect is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find the effect unsettling you might be able to reduce it by increasing your front tire pressure 20-30%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T11:56:04.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22961" CreationDate="2014-06-11T15:40:15.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more of a question/comment, but I can't add a comment to your post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tire/rim combination are you using? Rim strip or just yellow tape? Have you used the identical setup in the past and had problems with burping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience burping really depends on the rim/tire combination. Using a NoTubes rim strip will sometimes solve burping if you only have yellow tape installed. The sealant will fill in along the rim if air is escaping during installation, but I don't think adding a thin layer of sealant to the rim would make much difference, and could possibly make things worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T15:40:15.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22954" CreationDate="2014-06-11T15:59:36.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tilt of the road &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; exerting a sideways force on your tyres: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camber_thrust#On_bikes%20camber%20thrust&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Camber thrust&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a flat surface, this force is part of what makes a bike turn when you lean, but having the road tilted when the bike is upright will have the same effect (and so try to turn the bike). But on normal roads, it's a relatively small effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T15:59:36.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-11T18:17:48.723" Score="2" ViewCount="2275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a downhill bike from a friend awhile ago when I was considering trying out downhill biking. Currently, I want to use it to do some road biking. The tires read 29 PSI 2 bar, Max of 80 PSI. I pumped them to 29 PSI, and that biking session was pretty tiring. I pumped it up to 40-ish PSI and I can coast, and pedal much better. My friend at work suggests I pump it to the max of 80 PSI, but just want to be sure this is a good idea before I try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty new to the technical side of biking/bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I forgot to mention that I read &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/471/what-pressure-should-i-run-my-mountain-bike-tires-at&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; but it doesn't really mention road biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T11:19:49.843" Title="What PSI for downhill bike tires used for road biking?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2014-06-11T18:32:34.633" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, straight pull spokes are technically superior to traditional J-bend spokes.  The only reason that J-bend spokes are relatively more popular is because it's cheaper to machine a hub with simple flanges on a lathe.  Well-designed straightpull hubs typically cost more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a straight-pull spoke in generally can and should be tensioned higher than the equivalent J-bend spoke.  As always, build quality is key, and the average bike shop won't necessarily have the experience to do it well.  Nevertheless, in comparison to a J-bend, a straight pull spoke properly assembled onto a properly designed hub will:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not fatigue as fast -- especially if a J-bend is not kept adequately tensioned. in other words, a straightpull spoke will not relax as quickly.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eliminate spoke rubbing typical in most traditionally laced wheels.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be stiffer radially AND laterally than most traditional lacing for the same spoke gauge (though it is hard to do a direct comparison because hub and rim geometry varies widely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be lighter for the equivalent capability -- or, more importantly, will have less inertia due to the ability to use fewer spokes and/or narrower gauge butted spokes with no loss in stiffness &amp;amp; strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will last longer -- the J-bend spoke beds in, then frets and ovalizes the spoke hole, losing tension as the wheel wears in, as well as wearing out the hub.  In a straightpull spoke, there is much less motion &amp;amp; wear at the hub and nipple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: straight pull spokes, properly designed and built, will be lighter, stiffer, and require less truing than a conventional wheelset with the same number of spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of J-bend spokes?  Price and parts availability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12585" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T00:05:02.337" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T00:05:02.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22965" CreationDate="2014-06-11T18:33:26.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will have lower rolling resistance at a higher pressure   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lower pressure puts more tire in contact with the ground for traction.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the dirt this can be important.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you are running on the street.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yes traction on the street is also important.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But your downhill tires are not going to have good traction on the street.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downhill bike and downhill tires on the street you are looking for low rolling resistance.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So pump them up to the max and no hair pin turns at 20 mph.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to ride on the street you could mount some street type tires.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And they have tires for a mix of dirt and street.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably a duplicate some where.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I did not search.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T19:31:33.900" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T19:31:33.900" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22961" CreationDate="2014-06-11T18:36:27.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The soap and the sealant do not have the same purpose.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the soapy solution is to lubricate so the tire better pops (seats) onto the bead.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For some tires it is hard to get them on the bead (especially with a hand pump).     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there the sealant in the tires is used to seal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stans has some good videos&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/help/index.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;StansHelpCenter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/help/tireinflatingtips.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tireinflatingtips&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use soap and water to help the tire bead seat.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do not add sealant until you’ve successfully been able to seat the&#xA;  tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the thought of have some sealant on bead.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But I will go with getting the best seat (soapy solution).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And that is what stans recommends.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other tricks are:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shake the tires to disperse the sealant.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Lay on each side for 12 hours.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Run em up to 40 PSI and be sure they hold for 24 hours.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some tires suck up a lot of sealant - you may need to add sealant.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T18:47:34.947" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T18:47:34.947" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="471" CreationDate="2014-06-11T19:31:49.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of the answers mention tubeless tires.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tubeless tires has no tube so no tube to pinch.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary purpose of tubeless is for lower pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need both tubeless rims (wheels) and tubeless tires.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can get conversion kits for regular rims.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubeless comes in fully tubeless and tubeless ready.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With tubeless ready you need to use a liquid sealant.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tubeless ready is a more common.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T19:31:49.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22972" CreationDate="2014-06-11T20:08:16.120" Score="2" ViewCount="1365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a classic &lt;a href=&quot;http://vitus979.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vitus 979&lt;/a&gt; aluminium road frame where the rear dropout width is 126 mm. Most of the things I hear is that you should not use force on an alu frame and try to fit in an 130 mm hub in there, like you could on a vintage steel frame, but some say that the vitus 979 frame has so much spring in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what to do, I want to have modern wheels on it, should I try to force it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12587" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-11T22:10:47.160" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T05:51:51.473" Title="Should I force an 130 mm hub into my old vintage alu frame" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22970" CreationDate="2014-06-11T22:10:04.240" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, try to find a modern wheel that's the right size. They are still made and you can get very shiny ones that will match the bike very nicely. Or get a 120mm fixie hub and add 3mm of spacers each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must use a modern wheel, try to shrink your hub. Many hubs have washers between the locknuts and cones, or other spacers. If you can remove even a couple of washers to bring the hub width down you're better off. Ideally keep the hub symmetric, but a millimetre out is not the end of the world. Note that you'll need cone spanners and a little skill to adjust things after you do this. With a modern sealed bearing hub it's easier, but with a classic bike like that I suspect you're not putting new wheels in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, spreading the frame 4mm should be fine. It'll make getting the rear wheel in harder. With aluminium, do not try to cold set the frame. Once the aluminium yields a lot of the strength is gone and you've basically destroyed the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T00:00:48.717" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T00:00:48.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23047" CreationDate="2014-06-11T23:15:55.183" Score="5" ViewCount="2012" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I could figure out repairs myself but clearly I'm a moron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the chain and chainring on my fixie last Saturday, and this morning it got scary loose on me. I started to feel what felt like slack in the chain, but when I pulled over to check it out I noticed that all five of the bolts on the chainring were halfway to falling out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From start to finish, here's everything that I did when removing the worn ring and putting the new one on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove old chain (do not remove crankset from bottom bracket)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting with an Allen wrench and a screw driver, I started removing the nuts/bolts holding the old chainring in place. Successfully remove three of the five. Glare at rust on threads of nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fight with the remaining two bolts, which seem to have seized. Add a small amount of WD-40 to seized bolts. Fight some more. Swear. Attempt to use a hammer to tap on screwdriver to loosen bolts. Lament my lack of a third arm. Swear some more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a break. Look accusingly at old chainring. Pretend to do something else, in order to lull it in to a false sense of security.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attack bolts without warning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Realize that the only thing I'm doing is stripping the nuts and coming seriously close to accidentally stabbing myself with a screwdriver.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Admit defeat, go to LBS. Get a proper chainring nut wrench and a replacement set of chainring nuts/screws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cackling with the newly found power of using the proper tool, removing the frozen bolts and the old chainring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small amount of WD-40 on a rag used to clean rust transfer off of crankset, then wiped down with clean rag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New chainring in place, finger-tighten new bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In star pattern, use Allen wrench and chainring wrench to tighten bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat above for good measure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One last time, just crank those suckers as tight as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install new chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride to/from work, no problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride to work, almost die, s#!t bricks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All told, I rode about 20 miles between installing the new chainring and the extreme loosening that I had this morning. Did I miss some fundamental step in this process, or was this just bad luck? What can I do to keep this from happening in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT: Now with photos!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only removed one of the bolts because I didn't have the time to take the whole thing apart. If necessary, I can disassemble the entire thing when I have time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, man my bike is dirty. &lt;code&gt;:-/&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside of chainring&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3rcz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside of chainring&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nhHp2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside after I removed a bolt&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sRPgk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Outside without bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside after I removed a bolt&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aujj2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inside without bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt I removed&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnoCB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My nuts - side view!&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tfpxA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My nuts - top view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6792" LastEditorUserId="6792" LastEditDate="2014-06-15T21:40:43.760" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T17:38:37.013" Title="Replacing a chainring - what did I do wrong?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2014-06-12T00:37:15.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Spider&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part that connects the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/3157#3157&quot;&gt;cranks&lt;/a&gt; to the chain rings. Historically, most spiders have had 5 legs, and the crank arms and the spider are forged as one piece. With some cranks, the spider is constructed independently of the crank arm, and it mounts to a splined mount on the crank. Sometimes, the chainring(s) and spider may be constructed in one piece, and mounted to the crank arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mA7eN.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Image from trekstorecolumbus.com&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T21:40:50.630" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-06-12T00:37:15.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22976" CreationDate="2014-06-12T01:17:37.330" Score="2" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 6ku fixie, 49cm frame. There is not much clearance between the top tube and me. So I wanted to buy the 47cm and change all the parts on that one, instead of purchasing a whole new bike. Is that possible? I'm guessing it is, because it will be the 6ku just a smaller frame. I ride the 49cm okay, but I know it would be more comfortable if it was a 47cm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12590" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T14:00:01.427" Title="Can I swap my 49cm fixie frame with a 47cm, with every other part fitting right on the new frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22975" CreationDate="2014-06-12T02:10:56.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had a quick look at their site, there doesn't appear to be anything too special about these that'd cause problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it doesn't look like they sell frames on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're changing to a frame from another brand then you'll have to make sure the following things are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bottom Bracket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of styles for these, your's is most likely BSA threaded and 73mm wide. You need to make sure a replacement frame matches this to just swap the parts over. You can replace the cartridge in the middle, as this looks like a fairly standard square taper crankset, but finding the right one can take some thought.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seat Tube Diameter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat tubes come in all kinds of sizes. Your's could be anything. To fix a mismatch here all you need is a new seat tube though, and these are pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rear OLD, or spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The space between the fork ends on the rear could be either 120 (almost certainty on a fixie) or 135mm. This should match, but you can bend a non matching frame or space out your hub to make it match later. This can affect your chainline.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Headset&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often frames come as a set with forks &amp;amp; headset, often not. If the new frame doesn't include a fork &amp;amp; headset the head tube of the frame will either need to match, or you'll need a new headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike looks like it has threadless headset, most are these days, be sure to get a matching frame or you'll need to replace forks &amp;amp; stem too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Steerer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steerer of your current fork may not be long enough if it's cut to size and the new frame has a longer head tube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, most things &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be ok. There's no guarantees though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the easiest way to sort this out would be to sell this one to someone taller and buy yourself another in the correct size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying bikes whole is always much better value and you're not going to have to buy a hundred new specialist tools to get the job done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T06:55:12.990" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T06:55:12.990" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-12T02:30:23.883" Score="0" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got Exustar shoes and Shimano SPD-SL pedals with SM-SH11 cleats. Problem is, the cleat fixing bolts that were included with the cleats aren't long enough to bolt to the shoes. I'm wondering what length of bolt will work best for this? I'm seeing a lot of &quot;extra long 13.5mm bolts&quot; online- would they be long enough to bolt to Exustar shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help greatly appreciated, thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12591" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T20:33:00.630" Title="Shimano cleats, Exustar shoes: Which bolts to use?" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22979" CreationDate="2014-06-12T03:23:41.333" Score="7" ViewCount="50545" Body="&lt;p&gt;In time trial races, I see people are using these big chainrings. Is 50/11 combination doesn't give enough top speed? What's the real advantage? I can only think of the negative, which is it makes the speed difference between two cogs wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT: new info&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this article &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikeradar.com/au/road/gear/article/tony-martin-canyon-speedmax-cf-slx-gallery-50285/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;One ring to rule them all: Tony Martin's Canyon Speedmax&lt;/a&gt;, stating another benefit of using large chainring: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... by running a huge front chainring, even Tony Martin will often have to use a larger rear cog, which will pull the rear derailleur a bit closer into the bike's center and thus slightly out of the wind, further reducing drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chainring in the article is a 58T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastEditorUserId="3042" LastEditDate="2018-02-02T06:57:16.083" LastActivityDate="2018-02-02T06:57:16.083" Title="Why use 54T (or bigger) chainring?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22978" CreationDate="2014-06-12T04:35:20.580" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;UCI time trials are a class race contested in the tiny fractions of a percent, tiny differences in equipment become very important. Riders practice in wind tunnels to tweak everything from clothing to pedalling style, because a shift that gives an overall gain of 0.01% in speed can result in a win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering more than just the top gear, the jump from 50/11 - 50/12 (the two highest gears) and 54/12 - 54/13 is noticeably bigger (9% vs 8%). That may well explain the change, even if it results is slightly lower peak speed, since it means that on slight slopes the rider has better gear options available. Note that on downhill sections the 54/12 rider has the 54/11 ratio available, where the 50/11 rider has no choice but to spin faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between gearing 50/11 and 54/12 is about 1% (4.545454... vs 4.5). The larger chainring is bigger and heavier so it has more aero drag but lower mechanical losses (especially the loss difference between 11T and 12T is significant... but that loss should be less than 2% of the total power output). I suspect the human power output difference between those two at a given speed is less important than the comfort factor of being able to choose a gear that feels right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not even have to translate directly into better average or total power output from the rider, as long as it gives a better time. Also possible is that it makes the rider feel faster, and that directly affects performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit in response to imel96's question in comments: explain more about gear ratio selection (sorry, can't do tables here so you're seeing a spreadsheet turned into preformatted text)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When riding people care about pedal rpm, which is determined by gearing. Humans have a power/speed curve. The further from their optimum cadence they are, the less efficient they are (and in a time trial efficiency is what matters). The closer the gear ratios are, the closer to the right gear they can get so the closer to their peak efficiency point they can stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wee table shows what's likely to be the next 4 cogs lower than the original question on the two cassettes we're discussing. The question I'm looking at here is &quot;going up a slight rise, what gear options are available&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;54/12 top gear  &#xA;cassette cogs   ratio to next gear  Development (m)&#xA;12          9.05&#xA;13  92.31%  8.35&#xA;14  92.86%  7.76&#xA;15  93.33%  7.24&#xA;16  93.75%  6.79&#xA;average 93.06%  &#xA;&#xA;50/11 top gear  &#xA;11          9.14&#xA;12  91.67%  8.38&#xA;13  92.31%  7.73&#xA;14  92.86%  7.18&#xA;15  93.33%  6.70&#xA;average 92.54%  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The immediate answer is that the 54T rider can make a slightly smaller shift. Ratios let us ignore the actual gear and focus on the size of the shift. The 54T rider shifts to a gear 92.3% of their current one, the 50T rider drops to 91.67%. And that happens every time - on average the next lower gear is 93% for the 54T rider, and 92.54% for the 50T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(it's possible that the 54/12 rider will keep the 11T small cog so they have a downhill gear, but we can ignore that for this comparison because in that case the 50/11 rider is out of options). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sounds really minor, but remember that those riders are fighting it out in the fractions of a percentage point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T01:38:46.557" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T01:38:46.557" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22970" CreationDate="2014-06-12T05:51:51.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't necessarily recommend it, but I own a Vitus 979 and did this about 10 years ago so I could upgrade to a 9 speed cassette and STI shifters. I haven't had any problems with it. But I haven't put a lot of miles on it since the change and I'm under 150 lbs. Some of those miles have been on dirt roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stripped the frame about a year ago and the dropouts measure about 128.5 empty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea about trying to narrow the hub won't work because 1) you need the space to fit all the sprockets in the cassette 2) if you try to make space only on the left side your wheel alignment will be whacky 3) most modern hubs don't have spacers or cone washers that can be deleted from the assembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason, I haven't ridden it much since is because afterwards I never felt totally confident about the integrity of the frame. Also, once I was able to afford a new bike I enjoyed riding the new one more. I think you are better off keeping your Vitus as a classic and saving a up to buy a new bike with modern components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still considering it, remember that my experiment of one doesn't mean you'll have the same success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T05:51:51.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22984" CreationDate="2014-06-12T10:29:48.343" Score="7" ViewCount="2724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a bit of research but can't seem to find much information on how neck braces actually work to protect the neck. There are many views on whether they are actually effective in reducing serious injuries (in the same way it took a long time for ski snow board helmets to be proven). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neck Braces are a recommended safety item by the UCI for downhill events, unlike full face helmets which are mandatory, but all racers wear them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do they protect and how do they do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T05:24:54.810" Title="How does a neck brace work?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22981" CreationDate="2014-06-12T10:39:00.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I should think that they only work in conjunction with a full face helmet in that the helmet's angular motion range (up, down, left/right tilt) is restricted in such a way that on crashing, the typical &quot;break-neck&quot; motion (sharp snap of the neck) is avoided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is just an educated guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T10:39:00.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-12T11:19:04.737" Score="2" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know much about this question, the only thing I have heard is that commentator on Eurosport mentioned a few times that UCI points one rider obtains are counted for the team which signed him for the next seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wondered what are the criteria based on which a team gets WT license for the next season? Is there some minimal number of points they must have? Are there some conditions about the budget? Are there some other conditions a team must fulfill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T02:30:56.187" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T02:30:56.187" Title="What are criteria for a team to get UCI World Tour license for the next season?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;uci&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22981" CreationDate="2014-06-12T13:36:30.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A neck brace limits range of motion to protect the neck and spine  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xsportsprotective.com/neck-protection.html?gclid=CjgKEAjwn-WcBRD61NHM-uqDrm4SJADrP4tPoWSBXjoHJE7l43i6F7tZZj5uj7jTZ9pPMODkn-nVDfD_BwE#mountain-bike-neck-brace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeProducts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A neck brace restricts any extreme movement of your neck during a&#xA;  crash. In other words, it prevents your head from tilting too far&#xA;  forward, backward, or to the side, all of which can damage the spinal&#xA;  cord. A spinal cord injury can, at best, keep you off the bike for six&#xA;  to eight weeks or, at worst, put you in a wheelchair. Why take the&#xA;  risk of serious injury?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for statistics Nascar instituted HANS like 13 years ago and they feel they have statistics that demonstrate that it is effective.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/2011/writers/bruce_martin/08/04/impact.of.hans.device/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HANS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I get Nascar is not the same as a bicycle but once you protect the head the next thing you need to protect is the neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T15:33:20.270" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T15:33:20.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22975" CreationDate="2014-06-12T14:00:01.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have issues with toe overlap, especially with a fixed gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller frame will mean your cranks are closer to the front wheel, so your toes could touch the tyre when you turn tightly. And with a fixed gear, the pedals are turning all of the time, so more chance of this happening. Its debatable as to whether toe overlap is a problem or not - some people find it annoying or dangerous, others soon get used to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will depend on the frame geometry as to how much difference a smaller frame makes to toe overlap. You can reduce toe overlap by changing to shorter cranks, which may suit you better if you are not very tall. Also narrower tyres would give more clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T14:00:01.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22987" CreationDate="2014-06-12T14:10:07.610" Score="8" ViewCount="16225" Body="&lt;p&gt;Visors seem pretty ubiquitous on mountain bike helmets, but not on road bike helmets.  Why do mountain bike helmets have visors? What purpose does the visor have? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T19:09:12.773" Title="Why do Mountain Bike helmets have visors?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22986" CreationDate="2014-06-12T14:17:25.833" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;One purpose of a visor is to shield the sun like a baseball cap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many factors: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind resistance is not as big a factor on a mountain bike (slower speeds).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The more upright position on a mountain bike puts a visor more into&#xA;play. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a road bike the rider is leaning forward and facing down and the visor can even block forward view.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A visor can help keep rain, sprayed up mud, or low branches off the riders face.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain bikers think it's cool?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T00:48:48.303" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T00:48:48.303" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22995" CreationDate="2014-06-12T14:26:44.410" Score="4" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheels in question are inexpensive ($100/pair) alloy wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is &quot;yes&quot;, do you have an recommendations for grease? Currently I'm using &quot;Finish Line Grease with Teflon&quot; for most of my lubrication needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12573" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T04:03:07.713" Title="Should I repack the hub bearings on new wheels with quality grease?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22983" CreationDate="2014-06-12T14:55:01.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/8273/andy256&quot;&gt;andy256's comment&lt;/a&gt; I have looked into &lt;a href=&quot;http://uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/11/53/2-ROA-20140701-E_English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UCI cycling regulations&lt;/a&gt;. To prevent link rot, I am also adding link to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/*/http://uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/11/53/2-ROA-20140701-E_English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wayback Machine&lt;/a&gt;. (And even if this fails, it should not be that difficult to find the file &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=uci+cycling+regulation+part+2+road+races+%222.15.011%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on internet&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is mentioned there that licenses are awarded based on sporting, ethical, financial and administrative criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top 16 teams in the UCI World Tour team ranking automatically satisfy the sporting criteria. (2.15.011a) Two more teams are added based on the UCI points from their five best-placed riders in the individual ranking. The teams have a choice whether the riders from the season just complete or the riders contracted for the following seasons should be considered for this purpose. (2.15.011b)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T15:56:01.550" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-06-12T14:55:01.747" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22992" CreationDate="2014-06-12T15:11:33.700" Score="4" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following is a google maps image of a busy intersection I need to take during my commute:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dZfhP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traffic mostly comes from 2 sides: the South and the West. At the time I pass this intersection, there is a lot of traffic from both sides. There are bicycle lanes on both sides. Most traffic from the south heads west (about 4 in 5 cars) and most traffic from the west heads east (again 4 in 5).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I come from the West and need to go via Diepe Roet (that small curvy street to the South), there is a cycling lane up to the intersection. However, I find it hard to judge the traffic situation, because there are usually 4 or 5 cars waiting from either side, and they don't usually use their indicators properly. There's also not enough illumination to completely cover the intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution I've found is to head north along Heistraat. If it's not yet dark, I try to cross at the Frans de Cortlaan, which doesn't have nearly as much traffic. However, there's not much light there either, so if it's dark (in the winter), I drive another 50 meters or so further North. There is a school there with clear illumination on both sides, no perpendicular streets, a long speedbump and a zebra crossing. Both crossings are in my opinion far safer to cross, because it's much easier to see oncoming traffic in both ways. After having had an accident in the dark when crossing at the marked intersection, I rarely cross at that street, except during the holidays when there's no school traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I need to drive on the left hand side bicycle lane for this, and I'm not quite sure how dangerous or legal this is. I'm not the only cycler who does this on that intersection, and I feel like I got enough justification to do it. However, if I get into an accident, I could get into trouble for not following the normal flow of traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is driving against the flow of traffic an appropriate maneuver to counteract the danger on that intersection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11269" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T14:02:18.757" Title="Am I required as a biker to use the bike lane on the right side of the road?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bike-lane&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22978" CreationDate="2014-06-12T15:23:01.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time trials are about generating the maximum sustained power possible. Not many people can do that at 100+ rpm. Time trial gearing needs to match the rpm that the rider generates maximum power vs the terrain. A bigger chainring provides closer gear ratios. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all these events are won by seconds over an hours effort. Even the tiniest percent improvement in efficiency matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T15:23:01.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22990" CreationDate="2014-06-12T16:58:31.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding against the flow of traffic is dangerous and illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an intersection or a set of intersections does not permit you to ride safely, walk your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T16:58:31.407" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22990" CreationDate="2014-06-12T17:36:57.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Belgium at least, you are required to take the bicycle lane on your right if it exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, sometimes, safety would be higher somewhere else. You should always prioritize safety, and it sometimes requires to do barely legal stuff. In that case anyway, people (and most likely cops) will be understanding if you have a good explanation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep on mind though that the roads are usually designed to be as safe as possible, and the guys who designed it had a better overview than you have right now. (Most of the time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But never, ever go on a bike lane in the wrong direction. You would endanger yourself and other unsuspecting users. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T17:36:57.043" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22988" CreationDate="2014-06-12T18:07:44.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to just open them open to take a peek to make sure that: 1) they are actually packed with grease to begin with and 2) that all of the bearings are actually there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With cheap hubs, missing grease and missing bearings are not unheard of. But if a quick peek yields lots of grease and a full set of bearings, I'd tighten up the cones and pedal away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[New]  p.s. Just a quick note that asking which the best grease to use is sort of like asking which operating system is best: Windows, Linux, or MacOS (or FreeBSD or AmigaOS). You can't go wrong with whatever the LBS has (Pedros, Park, or even FinishLIne). I tend to be a quirky FreeBSD type and use Magnalube, a weird specialty lube which no one else has heard of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-06-17T04:03:07.713" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T04:03:07.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-12T18:44:32.587" Score="8" ViewCount="13987" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a rather usual Merida hard-tail mountain bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Recently I've come to notice that when I start pedaling (bike already in motion), it can take up to as much as quarter of a turn for the pedals to &lt;em&gt;click&lt;/em&gt; and the chain to start pulling the bike again.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What could cause this and more importantly, how can this be fixed? Is this merely a problem of chain tension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10694" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T00:32:18.080" Title="Pedaling not connecting right away" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22996" CreationDate="2014-06-12T19:13:29.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely it is not the pedals clicking in but the hub / freewheel  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have little springs on metal that let it click to coast but when you pedal they catch.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the spring is worn or the metal is worn it may not catch on the first and have to travel to the second (or third). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quarter pedal is a lot of motion.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is going to get worse as you have fewer points of contact and they are getting banged on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you are not asking about single speed freewheel but this is a reference&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whiteind.com/free-wheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;freewheel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The trials freewheel has 72 points of engagement for a faster engagement  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coast / engage can be in the free hub or the free wheel&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  fix hub and freewheel&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  free hub and cassette  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SheldonBrown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have a freewheel on the bike&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merida.com.au/en_au/bikes/mtb/sport/2014/big-nine-40-md-845.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BIG.NINE 40-MD&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If so you can just replace the freewheel&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But most likely you have free hub / cassette&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You will see hub used for free hub so just because the says hub does not mean it is not a freehub&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And you will see the term freewheel used for cassette&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But if they say cassette they typically mean cassette    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this is chain.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Do you have visual slack in the chain?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A 1/4 turn would be chain drooping half way to the ground and you would have problems with the chain coming off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T20:24:25.177" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T20:24:25.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22996" CreationDate="2014-06-12T19:19:46.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, there's 2 mechanism in play so it should be one or the other. A loose in the chain or a broken freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that there is no loose when you cross the chain from smallest platter to smallest cog on the cassette. If there is, remove chain link to remove loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that your freehub start pulling the wheel almost as soon as it start turning (forward). If that's not the case, you should change you rear hub or wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastEditorUserId="12598" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T20:12:03.050" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T20:12:03.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22977" CreationDate="2014-06-12T19:27:42.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure to make sure they are long enough. If they are too long, screw a nut on then cut it with a metal saw at the right length. Use a file to make it smooth then unscrew the nut to make sure the threads are nice and clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastEditorUserId="12598" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T16:24:34.073" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T16:24:34.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22996" CreationDate="2014-06-12T19:39:28.040" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The parts that Blam refers to are known as the pawls and the ratchet inside the freehub. Slipping can happen for a number of reasons, including worn ratchet, worn pawls, weak springs, or excessive accumulation of grease &amp;amp; grime within the freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dirtmountainbike.com/features/work-freehub-body.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://dirtmountainbike.com/features/work-freehub-body.html&lt;/a&gt; has a thorough explanation of the different freehub types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the hub you have, a repair consists of either cleaning, rebuilding or replacing the freehub. Some freehubs are rebuildable, others are not and must be replaced as a unit. That said, it's often possible to extend the life of a non-rebuildable freehub by flushing out the old grease &amp;amp; gunk and regreasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic at your local bike shop can almost certainly take care of this for you. If you're more of the do-it-yourself type, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freehub-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freehub-service&lt;/a&gt; has step-by-step instructions for several different freehub types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2018-02-14T12:22:46.447" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T12:22:46.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22996" CreationDate="2014-06-12T19:43:51.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check if chain doesn't slack when coasting. A similar symptom happened to my bike, the cause was a worn spacer inside the free body had deformed and caused drag between the freewheeling part and the body, causing the cassette to apply forward torque on the chain. This caused a slack on the upper part of the chain, so when i started pedalling again, i had to first take up the slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, lubrication helped only a little and for a short period. Partial rebuild of the free body resolved the issue (however it was a very old hub an it shortly broke again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike has a freewheel instead, you can just swap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases, dirt and debris can contaminate the lube inside a free body or freewheel, and prevent the pawls from engaging. In such cases, a rebuild using fresh, clean lube solves the issue. Some lubricants get sticky with time, forming a goo or paste that also prevents parts from moving freely. The cure is the same as previous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T19:43:51.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-12T21:20:19.880" Score="5" ViewCount="5689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Frankenbike off Craigslist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxrFL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frankenbike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Specialized Rockhopper of unknown year, converted to a commuter, with shocks up front and V-brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love this weird little bike and want to put a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.superpedestrian.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Copenhagen wheel&lt;/a&gt; on it when they come out, to make it into the ultimate commuter frankenbike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To install the wheel I'll need to know whether I'm dealing with a freewheel or a cassette. How can I find out without taking the bike apart or knowing the year it was built?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2099" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T15:32:24.937" Title="How can I tell if my bike has a freewheel or a cassette?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23002" CreationDate="2014-06-12T22:01:10.897" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take the back wheel off you should be able to examine the freewheel/cassette to determine which it is. Here is a picture of some common types. If yours doesn't look like one in the picture, post a close up and I'm sure someone here can identify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Igwi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T22:01:10.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23041" CreationDate="2014-06-12T22:21:18.673" Score="3" ViewCount="1397" Body="&lt;p&gt;My watts per kg on hill 5 minute hill climbs seems to be 30 to 40 watts higher than what I can achieve on the flat. This is where I get dropped the most often during group rides and races. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My maximum 5 minute watts/kg on a hill climb is: 4.90 &#xA;The average gradient of the slope is: 9%&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gw7G.png&quot; alt=&quot;Here is the pf/pv graph for this entire ride&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But on the flat the maximum I have managed is: 4.37&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w25Wo.png&quot; alt=&quot;here is the pf/pv graph for that entire ride&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to add I'm not sure how to extract the data for just the vo2max intervals or whether that would be more useful or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I train each separately to give myself the best chance of improvement in each discipline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="8363" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T08:27:52.607" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T18:34:53.930" Title="Is it worth separating your vo2 max wattage's on the flat and hill climbs in order to provide clearer goals during training?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22990" CreationDate="2014-06-12T23:09:17.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Am I required as a biker to use the bike lane on the right side of the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kuleuven.be/transportation/pdf/guideforcycling.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycling guide for Belgium&lt;/a&gt; &quot;Cyclists have to use the cycle track if there is one available on the right side of the road or one that is designed for driving in both directions. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However that same guide lists a number of fines when a violation occurs and does not list a violation of this in its section on fines.  Further, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Segregated_cycle_facilities#Road_traffic_legislation_and_its_implications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia indicates&lt;/a&gt; that &quot;some European countries, including Germany, France, Denmark, Belgium, and the Netherlands have defined liability legislation. Thus there is a legal assumption that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;motorists are automatically considered liable in law for any injuries that occur if they collide with a cyclist&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. This may hold &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;regardless of any fault on the part of the cyclist&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and may significantly affect the behavior of motorists when they encounter cyclists.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That won't help you if you are badly injured or killed in an accident, however it suggests that cyclist safety is paramount in any case.  It may be that if you are fined you can explain the situation and reduce or have the fine waived due to the circumstances in that particular section of the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is driving against the flow of traffic an appropriate maneuver to counteract the danger on that intersection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Unless you are a pedestrian you should not go against the flow of traffic.  If, for the purposes of navigating that intersection safely, you determine that going against the flow is safer, then dismount and walk your bike as a pedestrian. Follow the relevant laws and signage for pedestrian traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastEditorUserId="990" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T23:17:40.700" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T23:17:40.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23055" CreationDate="2014-06-12T23:42:18.157" Score="2" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need some advice on properly adjusting the front derailleur (shimano -tourney) of my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did watch youtube videos and stuff on the internet but was not able to adjust it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I attach the wire to the derailleur, either derailleur becomes too tight or too loose, making the gear dysfunctional. Though I tried to fine tune through the two screws, I was unsuccessful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any video or any recommendation is highly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12603" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T06:34:40.540" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T12:30:30.690" Title="Front derailleur adjustment" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23009" CreationDate="2014-06-13T00:36:57.593" Score="4" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;My CAAD9 is fairly slow to stop. I read that giving the brake pads more travel can help — ie: making it so that you have farther to squeeze. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do it with this brake setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PkC4E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;105 brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12558" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T08:44:57.650" Title="Adjust brake tension / stopping power" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23008" CreationDate="2014-06-13T02:17:54.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With caliper brakes like yours that's not the case. With some cantilever brakes adjusting them so that they contact the rim later can increase the mechanical advantage (leverage), making the brakes more powerful if then adjusted properly. But that's a usually-minor effect on a type of brake you don't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your bike the suggestions Blam made in comments are correct. Start by cleaning your rims and pads.That means sanding or filing the dirty surface of the pad off, and wiping the rim with a wet cloth. Don't do that the other way round! Damaging your rim is expensive to fix, but brake pads are cheap. Most people don't bother trying to clean pads at all, they're cheap enough that it's easier to buy a new set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case you appear to have two-piece pads, where there's a metal holder that accepts a rubber insert. That makes it even easier. First, buy new inserts. There should be a little split pin that holds each insert in place, which you need to pull out using pliers. Then slide out the existing inserts and put the new ones in, with new pins. Then adjust your brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several web pages describing that process in more detail, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/brake1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-22T08:44:57.650" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T08:44:57.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-13T03:21:10.177" Score="1" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;Original Shimano Deore components all around.  Shimano MF Z012 5-cog freewheel.  Biggest cog is 30 teeth is worn out, chain skips,  and that cog needs to be replaced. Rest of cogs are ok.  Are compatible individual 30 teeth cogs still available as new parts?  Source?  If not, what's the recommended solution?     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12604" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T00:54:27.203" Title="1986 Stumpjumper Sport Cog Replacement" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23010" CreationDate="2014-06-13T03:35:50.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maintaining a freewheel (especially the body) is a PITA and finding the right cog to do it is more trouble than its worth unless you're really attached to it for some reason. You could just not use the 30t cog, or throw on a new freewheel. If you really want to pursue this avenue, Sheldon has some &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html#replace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;words of advice&lt;/a&gt; (I'd probably start with grinding the teeth if it looks like it'd work). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to buy a new freewheel. Sunrace and Falcon make a cheap 14t-28t freewheel, which should get you along nicely. IRD also makes an expensive 13-32t and a few other options  (looks like it was originally spec'd with a 14t-30t). Note that you should throw on a new chain while you do that as well. If you really must have the same freewheel (maybe because you like the taller teeth or something), you can find used ones in relatively good condition on eBay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what its worth, I'd probably get the Sunrace one and hope that I could &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-and-freewheel-removal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;get the old freewheel off&lt;/a&gt; without having to do something reckless - Falcon's freewheel remover doesn't have enough purchase. And IRD is pretty damn expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T03:43:58.873" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T03:43:58.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23010" CreationDate="2014-06-13T03:44:38.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the 30 is worn to the point its slipping and jumping, I would my guess the others must be due for replacement, along with the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Individual cogs tend to only be available in high quality gear, so a new cluster will probably cost less than a single cog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the cluster and chain if you can afford it. If not, the cheapest way would be to get a beater from the tip, side of road etc, and take the 30/32 off that. Its rare that the largest cogs are worn out more than the others  (more teeth per rotation, lower torque) so even a really old bike is likely to have a useable large cog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T09:08:41.480" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T09:08:41.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8131" CreationDate="2014-06-13T04:17:31.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite a few bike messengers tilt their saddle forward a little bit. Personally, I do it because if you're riding a long distance, it will put more weight on your arms, tilt you forward, make you more aerodynamic, it's better for speed, and it takes the weight off of your &quot;sensitive areas&quot;. There are some pretty interesting studies about riders with perineum numbness. Tilting the saddle forward will help relieve the stress on the mentioned area, and put more of it on the sitting area. BE CAUTIOUS: this will put considerably more stress on the arms and shoulders. Be prepared. As with anything else, your body will adapt naturally after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11484" LastEditorUserId="11484" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T04:31:25.533" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T04:31:25.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23004" CreationDate="2014-06-13T13:53:09.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your output should be consistent regardless of what type of terrain you're riding on, but external factors coupled can skew the results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've trained with power for many years, and while my evidence to the following points is purely empirical, maybe it will help you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I've always achieved higher W/kg results on hills than riding on flat ground. I believe this is because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More consistently positive gradient. When riding on flats, typically the ground isn't exactly flat, and will fluctuate between +/- 0.5 percent without the rider noticing. Going down a 0.5 percent might translate to the rider as a false reprieve from the effort at hand, skewing the average. As I'm sure you know, maintaining the same wattage downhill is difficult, though probably because of purely psychological reasons. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fewer external factors such as wind to content with. It should be noted that air resistance (drag) approximately follows a squared relationship with the free-stream velocity. Therefore, a tailwind or gust of wind while climbing 8 mph has less effect on power output than a tailwind while travelling at 25 mph. This will lend itself to more consistent power output. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat and straight roads tend to have high speed limits, which means cars will be passing you faster. This wash from the cars can skew your results through the same logic as above. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, this evidence is only anecdotal but these are the assumptions I've always used to justify differing performance numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I've looked up your W/kg on a cycling chart. 4.9 W/kg puts you at a high Cat 3, low Cat 2 range. Even at 4.37 you're still a solid Cat 3. If you're getting dropped on group rides with these kinds of numbers, I would suspect that your limiting factor isn't your 5 minute power (unless, of course, you're exclusively riding with Cat 1 riders). I would take a guess that your limiting factor isn't your power, but your ability to recover after efforts. Decreasing recovery time allows you to attack more, recover from surges at FTP, and makes your a more resilient rider. That being said, while 5 minute power is a decent gauge of fitness, the real litmus test is the 20 minute from which you can estimate your FTP. I'd be interested to see those numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T13:53:09.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22996" CreationDate="2014-06-13T14:27:00.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you say that this happens &lt;em&gt;when the bike is already in motion&lt;/em&gt;, I suspect that what you're experiencing is normal. In most bicycles, the rear hub has a ratchet mechanism which allows it to freewheel in one direction. This means that when the bicycle rolls forward under its own momentum (or down hill), the pedals do not move. Moreover, you can pedal backward even while moving forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means that in order to feel any resistance, you have to pedal sufficiently fast for the speed at which you are going and the gear that you are in.  If you do not pedal fast enough, it feels as if there is no tension in the chain, because in fact there isn't: the hub is moving faster than you, and freewheeling, and so the chain isn't exerting any torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must pedal faster or switch to a higher gear (if possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is also a chance that the ratchet mechanism in your hub is not working properly, so that indeed there is some looseness. The way to check this is to stand still with your brakes fully engaged, and try to pedal forward. There should be almost no slack in your drive train: the pedal should not move forward if the bike is restrained. If the pedals can rotate forward while your bike is restrained from moving, then have it serviced. It looks as if your rear cassette hub or freewheel may need to be replaced, or some other problem in the overall drive train. In other words &lt;strong&gt;does the problem reproduce when the bike is not already in motion? If so: problem.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastEditorUserId="5088" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T19:35:29.457" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T19:35:29.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23010" CreationDate="2014-06-13T15:04:15.230" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with other answers on replace the freewheel and chain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also look at the chain ring(s).  Replace if worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are wearing out the biggest gear then you are spending the most time in that gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want adjust the range like 14-32.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you replace the front chain ring then maybe a little smaller to put you more in the middle of the freewheel for your most common gear.  This gives you room up and down from your most common gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are running the larger front chain ring and wearing out the 30T then spend more time in the smaller front chain ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T15:04:15.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-13T16:20:06.040" Score="1" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ft0tx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGnDu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;Frame number (bottom bracket) MC9008 1987&#xA;Cruiser style,26&quot; rims&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dko6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uo19K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iKHHp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ig4Fw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12613" LastEditorUserId="740" LastEditDate="2014-06-16T19:14:47.877" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T19:14:47.877" Title="Can anyone help me identify this bike?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23008" CreationDate="2014-06-13T23:32:59.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My late answer will be very similar to the other (s), but I want to contribute with various experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, proper brake lever travel gives you optimum brake performance for your system and hand size. Effectively the brake lever should make the pads touch the rim a little before your hand reaches top &quot;grip force&quot;. This is because several parts on the system flex or compress a little before really beguin acting, causing the lever to travel a bit further down before any braking force is developed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start squeezing the lever, the hand forms a hook with the last joint. Continue squeezing until the hook is formed with the middle joint. Most people would have the strongest grip when this &quot;hook&quot; is roughly 90 degree (observe hands carrying a lot of grocery bags for example). This is the point where your levers should act. With caliper brakes you calibrate this by releasing or taking up cable, that is loosening the bolt that holds the cable, sliding it and tightening again. Then you fine tune using the barrel adjusting bolt(the one the cable goes through). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other systems have this bolt in the lever, for example cantilever, v-brake or linear pull and almost any lever designed for straight handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the maintenance side, I recommend replacing the pads before they loose to much flexibility, (the get dry and stiff with time). But before that happens, periodic cleaning enhances breaking performance. I use kitchen products to clean my brakes. Dish washing soap is designed to break grease but does not damage rubber nor plastics. I also use a dish washing pad, the famous brand is Scotch Brite, but the generics work as well. These pads are designed to be barely abrasive, so they remove hardened food without damaging antiadherent coating from cooking pots. This is why I recommend them for brake pad cleaning; they remove grease and stuck debris without wasting pad material. The general grease removing capabilities of these products work wonders with rim brakes and are cheap and easy to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T23:32:59.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22908" CreationDate="2014-06-14T06:13:52.837" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a very inexpensive department store bike. I wouldn't put too much money into it except for a good lock. Even new tires would cost half as much as it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nice thing about it is that most bike thieves will also recognize it for what it is and won't steal it, if you have a halfway decent U lock on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T06:13:52.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23029" CreationDate="2014-06-14T10:17:32.143" Score="1" ViewCount="9133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own two bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Giant Revolt 2: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/uk-ua/bikes/model/revolt.2/17270/72372/#specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/uk-ua/bikes/model/revolt.2/17270/72372/#specifications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Giant Anyroad 2: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/uk-ua/bikes/model/anyroad.2/17256/72374/#specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/uk-ua/bikes/model/anyroad.2/17256/72374/#specifications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experimentally Revolt has a better roll than Anyroad. This really bugs me because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anyroad has a stiffer fork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anyroad tyre width 32, Revolt - 35.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Revolt weights slightly more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've perfectly adjusted cones for Anyroad, experimented with tyre pressure, switched riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I didn't change is the hubs. Revolt has &lt;em&gt;Formula [F] DC20 [R] DC22, alloy disc hub, double-sealed, Loose Ball Bearing, 32H&lt;/em&gt;. Anyroad has sort of noname &lt;em&gt;Giant, [F]24h, [R]28h&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know anything about this mysterious Giant hub? Could it be a culprit as the Formula hub gives better roll?&#xA;Are there any other suggestions how to make Anyroad roll better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12619" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T20:32:47.920" Title="Giant Revolt 2 vs Giant Anyroad 2 drag/roll resistance" Tags="&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23036" CreationDate="2014-06-14T15:46:56.630" Score="5" ViewCount="8670" Body="&lt;p&gt;With shoes like those shown below, when you adjust the buckle to the most tight position, the release handle is blocked (IMHO, this is due to bad engineering but cannot be changed.) Usually, this happens to me during several hour bike rides after readjusting, i.e. tightening the ratchet strap. As a result, I have to use tricks like inserting thin sheets of metal between the buckle and the strap, which is especially tricky in places where you do not have those devices around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ByCUc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major question is, how can I avoid this with my existing shoes? E.g. I was thinking of &quot;inserting something&quot; so that the most tight position is blocked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am also wondering whether I am the only one who experiences this problem, i.e. whether I am the problem, by e.g. buying shoes that are too large (by common standards, this is not the case) or by feet that shrink much more than average during pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Regarding myself as a problem, I should add that due to a rare type of blood cancer, my blood is &quot;thicker&quot; (which is a physically incorrect term) than average, resulting in a bad (micro)circulation, especially during long exercise. Hence, an optimum solution would not increase the chance for unwanted heating, e.g. by wearing additional socks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastEditorUserId="3957" LastEditDate="2014-06-15T12:37:29.693" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T14:36:36.020" Title="Avoid problems with ratchet straps to fasten MTB shoes" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22905" CreationDate="2014-06-14T16:17:15.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a cheap paint job once. I'm mechanically inclined, so for me it was not a problem to disassemble the bike. Used 1000 grit sand paper to remove the gloss (opening pore) from the paint and then washed the frame with kitchen soap. Let air dry without touching it too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With clean hands, tape any piece I didn't wanted covered, because I didn't completely undo the bike. At this point, One complete can of spray paint was enough. I finished the job with stickers that I had printed myself at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding is laborious, but completely necessary. Opening pore in the paint creates a better surface for the new paint to adhere to. Washing is crucial to remove grease and dust, both of them prevent paint adhesion. For a strict budget project it is better to conserve original paint because it is already well adhered to the frame and it works great as a base coat. It is easier for new paint to adhere to porous, clean paint than to bare metal. Do not sand too much, since factory paint is really thin, and some times you wont find a different color base to guide. Use a flashlight (torch) to check if you removed gloss and that's enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Masking any part that should not be painted is highly advisable. For a start, paint should not get into any pivot, bearing, axle. But second, correctly masking the bike before painting gives the final work a better look (it can be so good it doesn't look cheap nor even home made). I recommend removing wheels, cables, derailleurs, handlebar, stem and crank set. Bottom bracket can be masked. Also mask fork bearings (headset) and seatpost. Leaving the seatpost is advisable to have a &amp;quot;handle&amp;quot; so you can move the frame while painting so you don't damage the paint job.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick to paint a bike (or anything) is to use several light coats instead of a single thick coat. Start moving the can before you press the nozzle and use quick, consistent movements, continue moving the can after you release the nozzle. If you watch any car restoration shows or similar, you'd see that they do this with their paint guns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first coat must be so light that the original color easily shows through. You should be able to give the frame and fork 3 coats from a single paint can. Let dry each coat before applying the next. The can label should tell the drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is absolutely necessary to let completely dry the paint before reassembling the bike because the paint may be &amp;quot;touch dry&amp;quot; but still not completely set. If you handle the frame at this time you will smear the paint or cause finger print marks on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, some stickers can help to make the bike look better. In my case I used inkjet printer on plain paper, then I used clean vinyl paper to cover and adhere it to the bike. How ever It may be cheap enough to have them professionally printed. At this time (2014) in my country they charge around 1 euro to print a sticker the size of a letter size (A4) sheet of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, in my country (Honduras) a can of paint can cost the equivalent from 2 to 4 Euros, a sheet of sandpaper costs cents, and a roll of masking tape is like half an Euro. So the hole project is around 5 to 7 euro, plus your workmanship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really advise you on being patient and not paint several parts with the same paint and not letting over spray fall on anything not intended to be painted, because that usually gives a bad, cheap look, and you may end up liking the bike even less than you like it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7mlA2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here is a picture of my bicycle (or as some may call it, a Bicycle Shaped Object)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2020-09-17T16:36:12.597" LastActivityDate="2020-09-17T16:36:12.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23026" CreationDate="2014-06-14T19:27:39.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the shoes are the right length, but too wide for your feet. You could wear extra socks so you wouldn't have to tighten them so much, but that would probably make them too warm. Maybe an extra insole would make them a little tighter without making them much warmer, as there isn't much airflow through the sole anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T19:27:39.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23024" CreationDate="2014-06-14T20:17:47.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running both tires at the same PSI could be your problem.  In a comment you stated you are running both at 70 PSI. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires of different width will typically have different design pressures.  Larger tires run at lower pressure.  Run both tires at the max pressure for &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; tire.  On the sidewall will be an operating pressure range for &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; tire. Run both tires at the maximum for &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are running both tires at the same pressure you are penalizing the smaller tire that is designed to run at a higher pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size of the contact patch is PSI times weight.  So if you have 140 lbs on the tire at 70 psi the contact patch is 2 square inches.  The more narrow tires must have a longer contact path to achieve that same 2 square inches.  The more narrow tire must deform more.  That deformation is rolling resistance.  More deformation is more rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link discusses resistance, deformation, and pressure&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rolling_resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rolling Resistance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-05T19:32:31.263" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T19:32:31.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23031" CreationDate="2014-06-14T23:44:12.067" Score="4" ViewCount="955" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am buying my first bike as an adult person and I am torn between getting a road bike or a hybrid bike. I will be using the bike primarily for transportation (I am a college student living in a city) but also sometimes just to ride for fun. I am a fan of the handlebars used on road bikes as I find the flat handlebars uncomfortable, but the tires of the hybrid bike make me happy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I'm not very educated when it comes to bikes so the only difference I can notice between the different bikes are the tires and the handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12623" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T04:10:32.240" Title="Road bike or hybrid bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23030" CreationDate="2014-06-14T23:55:25.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The style of bars you referring to are drop bars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hybrid / city / multi-use bikes now come with both styles of handle bars.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not endorsing this bike.  It is just an example. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/fitness/awol/awol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MultUseWithDropBars&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to consider is a used cyclocross and put touring tires on it.  It has drop bars and will take larger tires.  You can get great deals on used as many racers upgrade every season or two.  And this is the end of cyclocross season.  Or a used touring bike but you don't get as good of deals on used touring bike as you don't have racers flooding used market.  But if you don't know bikes then you can get burnt used. This is a cyclocross set up with 35mm touring tires that I use for training and crashing around the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U3LUx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-16T13:23:38.580" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T13:23:38.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23033" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-15T08:30:20.737" Score="1" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear wheel has a Shimano nexus 8 internal gear shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i noticed some wobbling on the axis recently. that means there is a little bit of play when i try to twist the axis sideways respective to the wheel itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is there a way to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: there is a nut on one side of the axis. if i tighten that one, it fixes the wobble, but it also makes the whole wheel harder too move. if it turn it while in air, it stop quite quickly by itself&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-15T09:59:54.917" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T02:27:23.923" Title="Wobbling on Shimano Nexus 8" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24086" CreationDate="2014-06-15T09:23:18.757" Score="1" ViewCount="4799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I previously owned an Edge 605, and recently replaced it with an Edge Touring.  One key feature which I can't figure out on the Edge Touring is Car or Pedestrian routing.  On the 605 you could choose &quot;Car/Motorcycle,&quot; &quot;Cycling,&quot; or &quot;Pedestrian&quot; routing.   The Edge Touring however only seems to offer &quot;Cycling,&quot; &quot;Tour Cycling,&quot; or &quot;Mountain Biking.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a serious issue for me because I use the device in mixed environments away from home, such as a trip where I do walking, cycling, and driving on a single trip.  Whereas the best road cycling directions on the Edge 605 were actually given by the Car mode with Highways disabled, &lt;strong&gt;I can't figure out how to get decent driving directions on the Edge Touring.  Is it even possible?  If it's not possible on the Edge Touring, what about on the Edge 800, 810, or 1000?&lt;/strong&gt;  This information doesn't appear to be listed on Garmin's own site, nor can I discern it from the various product reviews online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly I miss the &quot;Straight Line&quot; style navigation from the Edge 605--sometimes there is no known route but you still want the distance-to-destination and direction pointing to work; I have also failed to figure out how to do this on the Edge Touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, I am using the City Navigator maps for Southeast Asia...the map data is all there, just the routing capabilities seem lacking on the Touring model.  I also used some OpenStreetMap files in Asia which worked OK but again the device only offers bicycle routing whereas the old models offered car routing with the same maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T14:58:54.300" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T11:07:52.893" Title="Garmin Edge Touring can't do car, walking, or straight-line routing directions?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-15T14:19:43.887" Score="2" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to bikes. I got a used bike that had all the tires and tubes broken so I had to change them all. I changed the tires and the tubes completely two days ago, then I went cycling the next days. Today I went to ride the bike to find out that the front tire is flat (not completely flat, since the tube has a lot of air). Is it just a bad luck? Or does that mean I have bad quality tires or tubes? Or is it just a matter of refilling the tube with air again? Or that I didn't close the valve of the tube correctly? I'm really surprised for this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T15:32:16.053" Title="The tire got flat the third day of changing it" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23026" CreationDate="2014-06-15T15:09:16.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To fix your existing shoes, I would either move where the strap attaches to the &quot;tongue&quot; of the shoe or where the buckle is fixed to the side of the shoe. The straps are designed to be replaceable ( as well as the buckles ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take a closer look at your shoes, many Shimano models have small screws that fasten the buckle to the shoe so it can be replaced. If I am remembering correctly, they also have two sets of positions so you can place the buckle lower&#xA;on the shoe if you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if this is not the case with your shoes, you should be able to move the position of the buckle using pop rivets. This is something skiers do with ski boots all the time, so if your local cobbler can't handle the problem, you might try a ski shop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T15:09:16.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23035" CreationDate="2014-06-15T15:20:22.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I'd check that it wasn't a one-off event (like you thought you pumped the tire up but didn't enough) by pumping it up to the right pressure and making sure the valve is closed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I'd check the tubes and tires for punctures - maybe the rim tape slipped a bit or you weren't running high enough pressure or something (like you got a bad tube - it happens). Over time, you do lose air, but 2 days is too short to be noticable in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything you need to know about flats is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; - Take the tube out, pump it up a bit (roughly to the size it would be in the tire, but you can safely go to twice that size) and see if you can feel for leaks. A tub of water, visual inspection or the area around your lips may be useful for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T15:20:22.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23035" CreationDate="2014-06-15T15:22:18.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much air did you lose? What types of tires/tubes/rim strips? What tire pressure did you start your ride with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Did you replace the rim strip/tape in each rim when you replaced the tubes and tires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You may have made a small hole in the tube when installing either by improperly using a tool to reseat the tire or by catching the tube between the rim and tire bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) You may have a slow leak caused by something you rode over; a thorn, glass, etc. Or you could have a pinch-flat caused by riding over a curb or rock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) If the tubes have removable valve cores make sure they're not loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastEditorUserId="12565" LastEditDate="2014-06-15T15:32:16.053" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T15:32:16.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23040" CreationDate="2014-06-15T17:03:16.530" Score="10" ViewCount="7001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the rear wheel on my child's bicycle today.  Once I was done and put it back together, the chain is inexplicably longer; there is a lot of slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How did this happen and how do I resolve it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sjRds.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: looking at the photo, I think I may have to move the rear axle backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit x2: Photo of successful results, following my suspicions and Paparazzo's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bFtuS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12627" LastEditorUserId="12627" LastEditDate="2020-05-03T14:33:19.103" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T14:33:19.103" Title="Why did the chain on my kid's bike slack after I changed his tire?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23039" CreationDate="2014-06-15T17:10:12.653" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Move the wheel back in the dropout.  Equal on both sides.  Go for 1/2 to 1 inch of play in the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that valve stem might be leaning a bit.  Probably not enough to matter but ideally it is straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-15T17:21:13.407" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T17:21:13.407" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23004" CreationDate="2014-06-15T17:58:13.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer to your question is, no, you don't have to separate your &quot;VO2Max power&quot; between flat rides and climbs. However, specificity matters and the pedal force/pedal speed plots show that the demands of flat rides and steep climbs differ, so you may want to keep that, plus your recovery capacity in mind when you train. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer answer requires some explanation of VO2max, your power &quot;at VO2Max&quot;, the differences between 5-minute efforts and longer efforts, and power application within the context of a race. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VO2Max is the maximal amount of oxygen you can consume. It is usually normalized by body mass so is measured in ml/min/kg. It is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; independent of the sport you are doing so VO2Max can differ between cycling, running, rowing, or xc skiing, but the dependence among trained athletes is relatively small, perhaps 5% or so, usually less than 10%. The difference can be greater among athletes who are novices to a particularly sport, but here we are talking only about cycling, and about riding on the flat vs. climbing up steep slopes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger issue is that although we typically say that the oxygen you consume during maximal effort over 5 to 8 minutes is a good predictor of your VO2Max, it is often hard to spot a truly maximal effort from data collected during a race, especially a mass start race. The reason is that during a mass start race, tactics will depend on context, so picking out the &quot;peak 5-minute&quot; effort may often be an interval where you still have a long way to go to the finish line instead of collapsed in the gutter on the side of the road. For hill climbs, especially but not limited to TT hill climbs, once the climb is over you often (though not always) have a respite and can recover a bit on the descent. Therefore, just looking at 5-minute peak power during races typically won't be a good estimator of your true VO2Max. That is, your &quot;VO2Max power&quot; may not differ much between types of races but your 5-minute peak power can be quite a bit different, depending on the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, a look at the pedal force/pedal speed plots shows that hill climbs can require a different pattern of cadence and force than rides on the flat; and some riders may have an easier (or harder) time generating those patterns on particular types of terrain. Here is a plot for one rider showing his overall cadence/crank torque (very similar to a pedal force/pedal speed plot) during hill intervals. The upper left panel shows his overall pattern, the upper right panel shows that the elevation profile for the ride; as can be seen, he rode out to a nearby hill, did four climbs and descents, and returned home. The climbing portion of the ride is shown in red while the flatter parts are shown in black. The lower two panels show the cadence-torque patterns used for the climb and for the flat. It is evident that they are different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fUWKJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;cadence and torque for hill climbs and flat riding&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below, you can see cadence-torque plots for the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; rider in three different types of races: a hilly (but not mountainous) road race, a flat urban loop criterium race, and a rolling time trial. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DopuZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;cadence and torque for hilly RR, flat crit, and rolling TT&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Largely speaking, cycling speed on climbs is mostly determined by power-to-weight, while speed on the flats is mostly determined by power-to-aerodynamic drag area. This means that power scales with speed differently on climbs vs. on the flats. Another thing that varies with climbs vs. flats is crank inertial load, and empirical research suggests that some riders are more &quot;sensitive&quot; to changes in crank inertial load than others, and will choose different combinations of pedal force and pedal speed to produce the same power (say, the same 300 watts) on the flat than on climbs. We would need more data to be sure but another contributing explanation to why there is a power difference between your climbing and flat land power is that perhaps you are one of those riders who can produce more power over short durations (like 5 minutes or so) at low cadence and high torque than at high cadence and low torque. This is something that cannot be answered from only two rides but it is something to keep in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, different types of races put different types of demands on the racer, and different racers can have different preferences for how to &quot;feel most comfortable&quot; in producing that power. If you do different types of races you may want to be sure to include training not only for your FTP or VO2Max &quot;power&quot; but also the pattern of pedal force and pedal speed that characterizes each type of race. As an aside, these different patterns of pedal force and pedal speed during climbing show why simply elevating the front of a bike on a trainer a few degrees does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; produce the same training effect as actual climbing on a hill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2014-06-16T18:34:53.930" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T18:34:53.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22986" CreationDate="2014-06-15T19:09:12.773" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spend a lot of my time on my MTB riding around forests so the visor is to keep branches out of my face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12629" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T19:09:12.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-15T23:24:56.023" Score="1" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a stock &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2009&amp;amp;brand=Jamis&amp;amp;model=Aurora&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2009 Jamis Aurora&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9NmgD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2009 jamis aurora&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to modify my gear set-up to make climbing hills with large loads a little easier on my knees, as I constantly find myself wishing I had one or more low gears.  The specs say the crankset is an FSA Vero Forged 50/39/30 with a length of 175mm. The casette is a 9-speed SRAM Powerglide 950 (11-32). I read on a couple forums that some people had switched out their 30 tooth front sprocket for a 26 or 24, to help out with steep climbs and heavy loads. However, when I called a couple bike shops, they expressed concern that it wouldn't be possible and compatible with the front derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I had a couple questions for bike experts since this is my first time really looking at gear systems -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Would changing from a 30T to 24 or 26T make a tangible difference on climbs? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) How do I figure out whether the rest of the bike components will tolerate a 24 or 26t sprocket in the front?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Finally, any other solutions for this problem that one might try?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE 6/19&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After incredibly helpful advice from folks in this thread, as well as consulting a number of LBS, I have successfully swapped out the 30 for a 26, without losing my STI levers and without any other problems. The secret lies in adding a 'chain watcher' to help guide the chain back onto the granny if it comes off. Some other adjustments to the front derailleur are also necessary. But with a competent bike shop, it's doable. I haven't climbed with a load yet (this weekend), but from use so far, it shifts smoothly into the granny (but you have to take care you're somewhere in the middle of the rear cassette when doing so), and shifting back up to the middle is also not an issue, though it takes a little longer than before and must be done delicately. With the granny, you shouldn't use the smallest 3 or 4 cogs in the back. Otherwise it works like a charm. Bike shop said it'd probably work just fine to switch the cassette to a 12-34 instead of 11-32 if I wanted lower gearing, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4560" LastEditorUserId="4560" LastEditDate="2014-06-20T00:32:52.837" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T00:32:52.837" Title="Can I modify the gearing on a 2009 Jamis Aurora?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23043" CreationDate="2014-06-15T23:37:10.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd start by swapping the rear cassette so that you have lower gearing (i.e. bigger gears in the back).  The rear derailleur is what determines the biggest cassette (set of gears in the back) you can put on the bike (since they have to have enough tensioning ability to regulate the chain change for big gears). There are wide range (SGS), medium range (GS) and narrow range (SS). In this case, its a Shimano Deore derailleur, which is SGS. Thus, you can stick on a bigger rear cassette if you can't handle the climbs as is. Maybe a 12-36t or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I'd swap the chainrings out - 30t and 39t are already pretty low for most applications, and you need to swap the other chainrings out to smaller things in that case, since the front derailleur can approximately only do jumps of 10t reliably at a time. This is also pricey. That being said, the Surly LHT ships with a 26/36/48, so it might be worth a shot. But I'd start with a bigger cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-06-16T05:26:19.007" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T05:26:19.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23043" CreationDate="2014-06-15T23:43:17.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swapping chainrings would definitely help on climbs. Your current 30-32 bottom gear is reasonably low by touring standards, with a development of 30/32*π*0.68 = 2.0m, where the 24T chainring will give you ... 1.6m (20% reduction). You'll really notice that. 26T will shift easier and still be significantly lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really the only reliable way to find out whether the rest of the components will work with it is to try. At worst you'll find that the front derailleur isn't really long enough to cope with the small chainring and the chain runs on the bottom of it for some of the smaller cogs on the cassette. Which is workable for many people - you end up with the granny ring only working with the biggest 3 or 4 cogs on the rear cassette. Shifting will likely be more difficult than you expect, especially getting out of that chainring back into the middle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing that shift while climbing will be tricky, and that's what kills it for many people. You only get one chance, and if you don't make the shift you have to drop back, recover the bike, speed up and try again. Which is annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mitigate that it can help to change front derailleurs (basically buy the front triple derailleur with the widest range you can find), and drop a few teeth on the middle chainring to make the shift easier. That is at the cost, obviously, of harder shifts from the middle to big chainring since you've increased that gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can afford it, I think it's well worth buying a 26T cog and seeing what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other options&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get some benefit from a bigger cog on the cassette, but the jump from 32T to 36T is not particularly large and you will probably struggle to shift that with your current rear derailleur. The obvious fix is a Rohloff hub :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T23:43:17.373" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="244" CreationDate="2014-06-16T01:40:07.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dropout&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the context of bicycles &lt;em&gt;dropouts&lt;/em&gt; are a kind of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fork_end&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fork end&lt;/a&gt;, where the wheels are attached. Dropouts are employed on most bikes; on some mountain bikes the axles pass through holes at the end of the forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We often use &lt;em&gt;dropout&lt;/em&gt; for any slot to hold the axle at the end of forks, but strictly speaking, a dropout is a fork end where the wheel can be removed from the frame without taking the chain off first. It's called a dropout because after loosening the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/404/8273&quot;&gt;quick release&lt;/a&gt; or nuts the wheel will drop out when the bike is lifted off the ground. It is much quicker and easier to remove wheels with the bike the right way up than when the bike is upside down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image below shows a Colnago horizontal dropout in a Surly frame; a typical example. It has adjustment screws and an integral &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/3665/8273&quot;&gt;derailleur hanger&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KoX0T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Colnago horizontal dropout in a Surly frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front dropouts are vertical, and some rear dropouts are also vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fork_end#/media/File:Horizontal_rear_dropout.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image&lt;/a&gt; (CC BY-SA) from Wikipedia shows a fork end that is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a dropout. The wheel cannot be removed without removing the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nfkud.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fork end&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2018-07-08T20:33:07.647" LastActivityDate="2018-07-08T20:33:07.647" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-06-16T01:40:07.657" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22973" CreationDate="2014-06-16T02:13:28.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A drop of blue Locktite (use sparingly on each bolt) will fix this problem: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says threadLOCKER but it mainly provides thread friction so bolts don't back out of their own accord.  RED locktite on the other hand, locks it on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why those bolts backed off, some of the steel bolts I've seen have a very low friction coating on them and with the high torque you get with the fixies, well, they can back off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use locktite :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12634" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T02:13:28.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23033" CreationDate="2014-06-16T02:27:23.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely need to tighten the hub bearings.  I'd take it to a shop and ask for a hub bearing adjustment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most hubs I'd say you can do it yourself but the Nexus series are complicated and have different features depending on the model.&#xA;This means most step-by-step directions for standard hubs won't apply.  E.g. it may have a brake built into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're better off paying an expert to do it IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12634" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T02:27:23.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-16T04:47:45.787" Score="0" ViewCount="650" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have got a new set of clipless pedals and shoes. Hardly used it for some 15 rides.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Whenever I use it I feel a pain on my left foot's 5th Metatarcel and Cuboid bones.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There is no pain whatsoever on the right foot.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am using &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000WYAENC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this pedals&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vittoria-shoes.com/eng/products-dett.php?id_art=20&amp;amp;cat=MTB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this pair of shoes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the right set, The shoe is tightly set to the pedals after locking, that is, there is no lateral swivelling of my foot while riding.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But on the left side, my foot slightly swivels laterally. Could this be the reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know, if you had any similar pain and how you controlled it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T08:39:24.063" Title="Pain on the 5th Metatarcel and Cuboid" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23049" CreationDate="2014-06-16T06:20:07.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, it should be noted that I am not a doctor and none of this should be construed as medical advice - if you have pain, you should use your common sense to choose if/when to see a doctor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like something is screwy with the float on the right pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of bike shops offer fitting sessions for bike shoes as well as the whole bike. In particular, they'll try different sets of shoes and cleats with some pedal so that you get different amounts of float and tension and rotation of the pedals (a picture to illustrate that is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/shoe-pedal.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) a comfortable riding position - you may want to do this. This may be a good investment if you can afford it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing this, if you can't get it adjusted, you may need to go with a different shoe or pedal (or go toe clips/platform). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T06:20:07.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23039" CreationDate="2014-06-16T06:35:08.773" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems you're missing the 'tensioners'&lt;sup&gt;&amp;Dagger;&lt;/sup&gt;. They go on each side of the axle with the cap hooked on the end of the dropout. You can then adjust the tension of the chain by fastening or loosening the nut on the end (first loosen the axle nut, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/54/1-1111_Paar-kettenspanner-fahrrad.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain tensioners by 1-1111&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Chain tensioners by &lt;a href=&quot;http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:1-1111&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1-1111&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all bikes have these, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&amp;Dagger;: I couldn't find the correct translation, but their Dutch name would translate to &quot;chain tensioners&quot;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you usually can see where the axle used to be by the markings on the dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10493" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.500" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T12:54:42.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23049" CreationDate="2014-06-16T07:29:39.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With these shoes you probably use Shimano's SPD-pedals or similar MTB pedals. Most, if not all of these do have some angular float of the heel when the clip is engaged. It is part of the system. I'd worry if there's no float.&#xA;As with the pain on your left foot it could be caused by the position of the foot on the pedal. Ideally the axle of the pedal would be under the ball of the big toe. You might experiment here by moving the cleat fore or aft. Go for a ride, take along an Allen key and experiment settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T07:29:39.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-16T09:02:17.540" Score="5" ViewCount="437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a commuting bike I've had for a few years, and as long as I've had it it's frequently broken spokes on the front wheel. Eventually I got sick of replacing them, put it down to a bad wheel, and replaced it with another wheel I had lying around. This second wheel is a decent Mavic touring rim on a Shimano Deore hub, and it's done a couple of years of trouble free service on a previous bike.&#xA;Anyway, within a couple of months I got my first broken spoke and now it's the same pattern as before. Each time I replace I true the wheel up carefully and then check it again after a couple of days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the last 20 odd years on several bikes I remember very few broken spokes- once on a loaded tourer, and maybe one or two MTBing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this: Is there anything about a particular bike that might cause a lot of broken spokes- maybe forks slightly out of true or something? &#xA;It's a single speed with a reasonably high gear (45x16) and I am frequently out of the saddle but I can't think this would be any more or an issue than climbing hills on my road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a month or so ago I broke 3 spokes in 3 rides, and ran out of patience. After letting the bike sit in a corner for a bit I found a cheap replacement fork and swapped it over. A couple of weeks later and everything is good, so at the moment it looks like that was the problem- early days yet though I suppose, as it took a while for the original setup to start popping spokes and now the wheel might have a few dodgy ones in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the suggestions! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5477" LastEditorUserId="5477" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T09:25:25.300" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T16:15:17.907" Title="Lots of broken spokes on one bike, with different wheels" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22965" CreationDate="2014-06-16T11:19:49.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please check the rims manfacturer site for maximum pressure levels depending on the tire width. Putting 80 psi into a 50-60 mm tire needs very stiff and unforgiving rims - NoTubes limits the max. pressure for such tires (2.2&quot;) to 38 psi (for the old Flow rim)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The values on the side of the tires are usually safe zone values, where you couldn't destroy anything. They don't really make sense for outside usage. 80 psi is out of the world for a usual MTB tire, and you won't even notice the difference to 60 psi!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually you are good with 7-15 psi above the tire pressure for offroad use. Here is an  formula for some starting values: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/help/tirepressure.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.notubes.com/help/tirepressure.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Still, you will have to adapt tire pressure to real life usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, i would recommend new tires for road and (just) gravel riding, for example some Schwalbe Fat Frank oder SuperMoto. Kenda also produces some high volume slicks, which will be very comfy at 20-30 psi and won't look to stupid on a downhill bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12639" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T11:19:49.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23007" CreationDate="2014-06-16T12:30:30.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The small chain ring is considered the first gear, so it goes 1-2-3. The derailleur spring pulls the derailleur always towards the smallest chain ring, which makes sense if the cable snaps during a ride: you could still get home without having to walk your bike on hilly terrain. If it was always on the big chain ring, you would need some serious legs depending on your local hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you ever check a Shimano manual regarding the front derailleur adjustment? They explain very well what you have to do in detailed steps. But if you can't get it right using the mentioned Park Tool tutorial, i would really recommend visiting the LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What i am missing in the Park Tool tutorial is the step where you have to loosen the inner wire. This should be &quot;Step 0&quot;. The wire has to be loosened while adjusting height or rotation of the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12639" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T12:30:30.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-16T13:29:38.737" Score="20" ViewCount="6047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been biking for transportation and pleasure the whole time I've lived in Chicago, and I'm familiar with the basics of locking up and storing my commuter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I added a &lt;a href=&quot;http://yubabikes.com/mundo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yuba Mundo&lt;/a&gt; to my stable because I'm getting rid of my car and I'd like to still be able to go places with passengers. I rode it to the grocery store and was just barely able to lock it to the bike rack there, and only because one whole side of the rack was free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A U-lock won't fit around both the frame and a locking-post because I can't get the frame close enough to the locking-post. I've been using Kryptonite cables to tether it to a post, and then locking the U-lock through the cable, frame, and front wheel. I also plan to cover it with a tarp when it's parked on my patio, to keep birds off it as well as to hide it a bit from would-be thieves. Next to the giant tubes of the Yuba, the Kryptonite cable looks like a little thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't park this thing indoors because it won't fit inside most places (including my third-floor walk-up) and it has me laying awake at night worrying that the cable will be cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other steps besides locking it to itself, cabling it to a post, and covering it with a tarp should I take to ensure the safety of my bike, both at home and out and about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8789" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T00:38:07.323" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T00:38:07.323" Title="How to keep a huge cargo bike safe in the city?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22973" CreationDate="2014-06-16T14:01:49.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider that you should use either grease on the threads of your chainring bolts when installing chainring bolts, you want to be able to easily remove these later as chainrings do need to be replaced over time. Get some grease on the faces of the chainring and crank spider where they touch the chainring bolts. Some people are fine with blue loc-tite, but I prefer not to have to force it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't just tighten them once and assume it's ok.  Go around the ring and tighten every other bolt until you've tightened them all. You can do a star pattern if you prefer, just don't tighten them simply in order around the ring.  Make a couple passes and incrementally increase tightness. You want to ensure they are tightened evenly, so that none of them are loose while others are over-tightened. Use a torque wrench if you're really worried about over-tighening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you're using the appropriate length of chainring bolts (which doesn't seem like a problem from the photos).  Some bolts (actually the sleeve/nut) are made longer to go through the crank spider and 2 rings (or bash guard), while others are made shorter to go through the crank spider and a single ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T14:01:49.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-16T14:11:54.463" Score="0" ViewCount="8913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a new cyclist who is on my 2nd year of biking. I bought a cheapo Schwinn MTB at Walmart to start with but now I want a real road bike. I currently have $2k saved up and am looking into a Specialized Secteur Exprt Disc which is aluminum. I did pick up a carbon frame bike at the shop and although it is lighter, not by much. How sturdy are these carbon frames? From what I've read they can crack if you get in a tumble, and at that point you are done. Vs an aluminum frame will more likely than not be OK. I'd have to spend over $1000 more to get a carbon frame and as good components (Shimano 105 or above) so I don't know if its worth it or not. I'm just a casual cyclist who likes to go on long solo rides for fitness/fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12641" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-06-16T17:12:30.687" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T02:19:18.427" Title="Carbon Fiber vs. Aluminum" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-06-16T17:11:43.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23058" CreationDate="2014-06-16T15:20:24.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no reason to worry about carbon fibre durability. I'm riding on a 20 year old Specialized Epic Allez (CF tubes with Al lugs), and it's just as light and stiff as it was when new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a serious accident CF may break in a non-repairable way, but the same is more-or-less true about aluminium as well, although it may take more of a tumble to break it. (In theory Al can be welded, but you have to be very careful, as the welding will wreck the heat treatment.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, CF &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; more expensive. If I would buy a new bike today I would probably get a decent aluminium frame and instead spend more money on the components, rather than an expensive frame with sub-par groupset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T15:20:24.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23058" CreationDate="2014-06-16T15:26:16.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a 2k budget, you can get either a mediocre new carbon frame, or a high-quality aluminium frame like a Cannondale CAAD 10. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Newer aluminium frames ride significantly better than their predecessors of even as recently as 5 years ago. The best aluminium frames can rival their carbon counterparts on weight and ride quality, while providing (in most cases) upgraded components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend buying a new aluminium bike over a lower-end carbon bicycle any day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastEditorUserId="8930" LastEditDate="2014-06-16T16:04:47.537" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T16:04:47.537" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-16T15:27:28.643" Score="5" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many mtb movies about the style &quot;Downhill&quot; the riders casually twist their fork and front tire at jumps, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxgG15P8qg&amp;amp;t=27m55s&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLxgG15P8qg&amp;amp;t=30m05s&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a stunt for &quot;cool points&quot; or does it aid in stability/speed in some way (as in, helps you finish first)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T13:43:25.247" Title="Is this a stunt or a useful descent technique?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23053" CreationDate="2014-06-16T15:32:04.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are your brakes properly aligned? If they're off-center, every time you brake you'll generate a lateral force on the wheel that spokes absolutely &lt;em&gt;hate&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you store your bicycles? Do they live in the garage or in the living room? If you live near the beach, the salt can cause corrosion and weaken the components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Like the comments said, check the fork alignment. Since you stated that you had a wheel lying around that had never been a problem before mounting it on this particular bike, it leads me to think that there is something wrong with the current bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T15:32:04.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23061" CreationDate="2014-06-16T15:48:53.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically cool points, but it can be used to align the bike with the landing surface if the launch, trajectory and landing aren't in a straight line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T15:48:53.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23056" CreationDate="2014-06-16T16:42:37.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking at U-locks there are possibly larger ones available.  Kryptonite for example has a &quot;standard&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=001010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Evolution series 4&lt;/a&gt; which has a 4in x 9in shackle.  Then they make variations with a short shackle:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=000983&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Evolution Mini-5 &lt;/a&gt; (3.25in x 5in) and a long shackle:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=001027&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Evolution series 4 LS &lt;/a&gt; (4in x 11in).  Each will have benefits and drawbacks, and your application might require something beefier:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=999577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New York Legend Chain&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T16:42:37.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23043" CreationDate="2014-06-16T17:29:11.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can easily put a 26t chainwheel on the front crank. I've done that on a couple bikes, because 30/39/52 makes for a stupidly redundant set of gears with anything like a wide range cassette on the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will likely take some tweaking of the front derailler setup to get it working properly, switching to a 50 from a 52 can help with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't an out of the box recommendation since you are slightly exceeding the manufacturers specifications for both front and total ranges, but in practice it&#xA;works just fine. I would recommend installing some kind of chain keeper like the &#xA;Deda Dog fang. This will help avoid dropped chains when shifting from the middle to small chainring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as changing the rear cassette goes, you should be able to use a Shimano 9speed HG 12-36 and it's generally just cheaper to buy the whole cassette than individual rings. If your current cassette isn't worn, you can mix and match rings to build a custom cassette. However, switching cassettes doesn't really solve the problem as well as a smaller chainring would IMHO. A good granny will give you a few choices in climbing. If you go to just the 36t in the back, you've only added one lower gear and you'll be &quot;stuck&quot; there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing a lot of loaded touring, I would recommend replacing the entire front crank altogether. Standard road triples 130/74 BCD don't make a lot of sense for touring. A 110/74 or even a 9 speed MTB crank 22/32/44 will give a more useable set of gears. Personally, I would take a long look at the Surly Mr Whirly crank for touring. It uses modern bearings and you can get a replaceable spider to &#xA;allow for whatever front gears you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, the old MTB standard 58/94 is ideal for loaded touring. 20/30/42 allows you to use a relatively close range on the back and still get all the gears you need. If you do go this route, you might need to replace the front derailuer as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep poking around on Sheldon Brown's pages, there is lot's of good info there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T17:29:11.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23056" CreationDate="2014-06-16T17:47:53.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go both ways.  A nice ulock plus a chain.  If the ulock cannot attach to the rack then just use it to lock the rear wheel.  If you have nothing to attach to then use the chain for the front wheel.  If the ulock will attach to the rack then use the chain for both wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/BicycleSecurity.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Choose Your Bicycle Security&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We also recommend using two security products rather than just one as&#xA;  this will usually drive a thief to choose another target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kryptonite has an anti-theft protection.  It is free the first year.  If you buy one of their locks you might as well sign up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-17T14:15:24.343" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T14:15:24.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23056" CreationDate="2014-06-16T18:33:33.907" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm answering my own question because I took a combination of the steps above, plus some other steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I took steps to make getting it back in event of theft more likely: &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;registered the bike with the Chicago police: &lt;a href=&quot;https://portal.chicagopolice.org/portal/page/portal/ClearPath/Online%20Services/Bike%20Registration&quot;&gt;https://portal.chicagopolice.org/portal/page/portal/ClearPath/Online%20Services/Bike%20Registration&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I plan to register it with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.nationalbikeregistry.com/&quot;&gt;https://www.nationalbikeregistry.com/&lt;/a&gt; as well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made sure the store I got it from keeps bike serial numbers on file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolled up an extra copy of the receipt, with my name and phone number on it, and put it inside the seat tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Made sure it was covered on my renter's insurance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I figured out a hardware setup&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavy chain (the Fuggedaboutit lock+chain) for locking the frame to a post, instead of the flimsy cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tethered the seat to the frame with a small cable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normal U-lock for locking the front wheel to the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm hoping to deter based on looks also&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Covering up brand-name info with a unique combination of stickers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chose a bright, unusual color when I bought it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8789" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T18:33:33.907" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23070" CreationDate="2014-06-16T19:56:35.543" Score="0" ViewCount="1297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like a stages power meter on my set up but cant figure out if the bottom bracket sizes are correct and if even the new crank will fit at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:33:17.900" Title="can you put a shimano XTR M980 175mm stage power meter on a XT M785 175mm setup?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23069" CreationDate="2014-06-17T02:40:23.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both the M785 and the M980 are hollowtech II systems and compatible. They use a compatible bottom bracket sm-bb70 and sm-bb93, which are English threaded 68/73mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The M980 uses the same clamping system as other Hollowtech II systems which is different to earlier xtr cranksets which required specialist tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stages power meter comes as a replacement crank arm with the meter built in, so while this set up would work for aesthetic purposes wouldn't it be better to get the m785 meter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T02:40:23.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-17T03:21:29.210" Score="2" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refining a prior posted question.  15 speed 1986 Specialized Stumpjumper-Sport has original 5 cog freewheel, 14-30. Original Analog shifters.  Biggest cog needs replacement.   Individual cogs are no longer available.   5 cogs is plenty for my needs, but 5 cog freewheels seem pretty rare these days.  Shimano makes two versions of a 6 cog freewheel that are sold through Walmart.com for $10 - $15. 14-28 (MF-TZ20), or 14-34 (MF-ZH30).  Prices seems pretty good.     What are the issues involved in transitioning from a 5 cog to one of these 6 coggers?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it fit in the same axel space?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 cog chain compatibility spec states 3/32&quot;.  Does that imply a Shimano Hyperglide chain? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, would SH chain be compatible with existing front chainwheel cogs? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any derailleur/cog clearance issues switching from 30 to 34 cog?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12646" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T15:19:43.027" Title="Changing from 5 to 6 cog freewheel on 1986 Stumpjumper-Sport" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23071" CreationDate="2014-06-17T03:38:45.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to (1), I'd probably stick with 5 speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0,4) Presumably by analog, you mean friction shifters. Friction shifters don't care about how many gears you have in the back. You just need a derailleur with sufficient chain wrap to regulate the chain tension appropriately (a wide range derailleur in this case, which most mountain derailleurs are). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You need to do some work. To quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/freewheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;Hubs originally intended for 5-speed freewheels can be converted to use 6- or 7-speed freewheels. You will generally need to add a few spacer washers to the right side of the axle, building it up far enought that the cone locknut can reach the frame dropout through the wider freewheel body. You will need to re-center the axle but probably won't need to replace it with a longer one. You'll also need to re-dish your wheel , and probably re-space your frame. If you're fairly handy, this is not an unreasonable thing to do.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2,3) Just get a modern Shimano-type 7 speed chain, like the SRAM PowerChain 850. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T03:38:45.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23030" CreationDate="2014-06-17T04:10:32.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The style of the bike isn't quite as important as the fit of the bike. An ill-fitting road bike won't be as good as a perfectly fitting hybrid and vice versa.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd go to your local bike store and try several bikes in different styles and sizes. One will click with you. If it's a good shop, they should let you ride around the block to test different riding positions, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T04:10:32.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22939" CreationDate="2014-06-17T04:18:19.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think electric turn signals on bicycle are a silly idea. As a motorcycle rider, I know that cars ignore turn signals.  Motorbikes and bicycles are invisible to cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my bicycle, I do my hand signals (especially the left turns in the USA where I'm crossing against traffic) in conjunction with looking back and making eye-contact with whatever homicidal cager is threatening to run me down. I also signal lane shifts the same way. Hand signals are a visible claiming of space and the head turn / eye-contact is a critical part of this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(On my motorbike, I tend do lane changes with hand signals. Pointing to the space that I'll occupy along with a death glare at the car behind me is much more effective than a little blinker). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T00:37:10.343" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T00:37:10.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23026" CreationDate="2014-06-17T04:21:48.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One word: Sugru.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a great self-curing plastic that allows you to &quot;hack&quot; your shoes in all sorts of ways. You can knead in a bit of it to make sure the tightest buckle position is blocked. You can use it to add a lip to the release to make it easier to grab. You can use it to repair your shoes. Next to ShoeGoo and gaffer's tape, it's the Best Thing in the Universe®.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get it at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sugru.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sugru.com/&lt;/a&gt;  -- and sadly no, I don't get any kickbacks from them otherwise I'd be a millionaire, as I evangelize it as much as I can. :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T04:21:48.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23056" CreationDate="2014-06-17T10:42:15.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also try 2 D-locks, 1 round the hard point, 1 round the frame or back wheel, and interlinked to form a chain.  I suggest long thin ones, of 2 different brands so the keys are dissimilar and you don't get confused. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look easy to pick up (though easier than a bakfiets which was what I imagined when I saw the title), so making it non-ridable is also helpful - take the saddle indoors perhaps. The old technique of taking off the front wheel and locking it to the back wheel also slows down a ride-off thief, as does any form of lock fixing the front wheel to the frame (yes, ideally to a hardpoint as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the patio, could you fit a ground anchor into a heavy concrete parasol base and lock to that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably end up with 2 locking setups - keep the heaviest stuff at home, but have some means of locking it up while out as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T10:42:15.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22939" CreationDate="2014-06-17T12:17:52.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suggested compromise: Hand signals, but wear reflective material on your arms to make those signals more visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11505" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T12:17:52.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22939" CreationDate="2014-06-17T12:23:51.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Learn to look back while riding straight. That is much more important than making any signal. Also the movement of the head is usually a good indication to the driver behind of what your intentions are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12650" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T12:23:51.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22990" CreationDate="2014-06-17T13:15:15.530" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always keep in mind the true purpose of segregated bicycle facilities. To keep bicycles out of the roads that motorists think belong to them. They are not built for safety. In fact they are usually more dangerous than riding on the road. I always avoid them and ride on the road instead, that is my recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12650" LastEditorUserId="12650" LastEditDate="2014-06-17T14:02:18.757" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T14:02:18.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23071" CreationDate="2014-06-17T15:19:43.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(axle width) Maybe, there is a pretty good chance your bike is already at 130mm O.L.D. spacing. Road bikes would be at 120 or 126mm from that era, but a mid 80's MTB has a reasonable chance of being at 130mm. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#old&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#old&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2-3. All chains for geared bikes are 3/32 interior dimension, the difference between 7-11 speed is the outside width. You should buy a new chain if you buy a new freewheel, any quality 8spd chain is fine and should work on your current chainwheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For an MTB derailler 30 -&gt; 34 should not be a problem. You will likely need to make adjustments to the B screw to make sure the cage clears the largest gear. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ba-n.html#btension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ba-n.html#btension&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T15:19:43.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22973" CreationDate="2014-06-17T17:19:05.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the instructions from Surly are grease and not loctite I don't agree that loctite is the answer.  Same with instructions from sram.  Something is wrong for those to go loose in a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2003_cr-4arm-e-r4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SurlyInstructions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are you sure you have 6mm (single)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That bolt looks long relative to the nut to me.  I seems like more thread on thread is a good thing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Prob-Solvers-Single-Chainring-Bolts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SingleChainrignNutBolt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2003_cr-4arm-e-r4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TruVativ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Understand you don't have a TruVativ but only place I found torque. &#xA;For steel torque is 12-14 nM. &#xA;And they show the nut on the chainring side (like you have it).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-17T17:38:37.013" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T17:38:37.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23091" CreationDate="2014-06-17T19:25:17.193" Score="8" ViewCount="1776" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pictured is a freewheel with 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and 20 tooth sprockets. What I don't understand is why such small increments are worthwhile. Surely the point of having gears is the variance that they provide? Please enlighten me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sowP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;16, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 tooth freewheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T18:33:54.047" Title="What's the point in a freewheel/cassette with incrementally sized rings?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23083" CreationDate="2014-06-17T19:39:39.143" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, having just changed to a cassette with less range, I have to say that smaller steps definitely offers some advantage. I went from an 8-speed 11-32 to a 12-23.  Having a single tooth of difference between adjacent gears means that it's more likely that you will be in the &quot;right gear&quot;.  The &quot;right gear&quot; is the gear in which you aren't spinning too fast, and aren't pushing too hard for the given conditions (slope, wind, etc.).  Sure a large gear range is desirable, but there is such a thing as too much range, where some of the gears (usually the easiest gears) are never used. Personally, I found that I never needed the extra range in my ride, especially considering I have triple chainrings, so I went with smaller increments which made the range smaller, while allowing me to be in the &quot;right gear&quot; more often.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T19:39:39.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14645" CreationDate="2014-06-17T19:40:28.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this issue once so I cut an old tube (about 4&quot; of it) then wrapped my bars with it and tightened the bolts tight in the correct pattern and my problem was solved? A rubber shim I guess... By using a tool for tighter leverage this may have ovaled the bars on it's own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12653" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T19:40:28.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23083" CreationDate="2014-06-17T20:24:49.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is about what range do you need?  If you are riding flats and only need a 20 as the lowest and 15 as the lowest then might as well pack in a tight spacing.  One is a variance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By that argument what is the benefit of a 7 speed 12x32 versus a 10 speed 12x32?  It is just a closer variance.  You have never been riding a stretch where one gear is too high but the next is too low?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-17T22:37:27.877" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T22:37:27.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23056" CreationDate="2014-06-18T01:07:41.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that if you use a U-lock on the rear wheel &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; the bike frame (e.g. close to the seat post frame), then you only need to lock the wheel and not the frame as well.  Because the lock &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the wheel are inside the rear frame triangle, the frame is effectively locked as well.  This is just a suggestion because it might make it possible to use a U-lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8288" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T01:07:41.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23083" CreationDate="2014-06-18T01:58:29.280" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point is &lt;strong&gt;efficiency&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists actually have quite a narrow optimal power band. Most of us &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; bang away at a cadence of 50 rpm, up to about 90 rpm. Some of us pedal faster - 90 to 120 rpm. At those lower cadences (50) it feels like we're producing lots of power and at the high cadences it feels like we're just breezing along. But that is confusing torque with power. The optimal power band is where we produce most power most efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How narrow is that power band? Take me as an example: 50+ years of road cycling, leg muscles well trained to buzz along at 100 to 120 rpm. My optimal power band is 105 to 115 rpm - on a flat ride I can do that for hours. If my cadence is dropping on a rise or into a headwind and I'm starting to grind, I know I'm down around 100. On a hill, after I run out of gears, if I can maintain a cadence of 90 or above I'm happy. But it's not as efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there are three factors to consider: the rider, the terrain, and the wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terrain&lt;/strong&gt;. On a flat road, close spacing gives us scope to choose the optimum gear. On a hilly road, we might want wider spacing at the bottom of the range to help with climbing. For MTB, AFAIK such a cluster would be unsuitable, but I'd welcome input from an MTB rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wind&lt;/strong&gt;. On a circuit, wind is like hills. Except that we always seem to have a headwind. Whatever. In wind a cluster with wider spacing helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Rider&lt;/strong&gt;. You. Where is your power band, and how wide is it? With training it will change. You'll hear many riders say that they &quot;top out&quot;, meaning they couldn't pedal any faster (look at the tables below and see what that means). More factors come into it now: training and pedals. Pedaling fast takes practice, not just to pedal, but to do it smoothly so you don't bounce uncomfortably. And you have to be &quot;clipped in&quot; - no flat pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I digress. A general purpose 10-speed road cluster for a strong rider might be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 27&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between each gear at the top end (11 to 15 teeth) is between 6% and 9%. At the bottom end, the difference is about 10%, except for the &quot;granny gear&quot;. Taking our narrow power band into consideration, and assuming we have 39x53 front chain rings, that means we'll be able to find a comfortable gear at a wide range of speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the 39T chain ring, at 90 rpm (as an example; it's the ratios that matter, not the exact cadence):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;19 kph on the 23T sprocket&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  21 kph on the 21T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  23 kph on the 19T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  25.8 kph on the 17T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  27.5 kph on the 16T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  29.3 kph on the 15T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  31.4 kph on the 14T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  34 kph on the 13T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  37 kph on the 12T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  40 kph on the 11T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And still on the 39T chain ring, at 110 rpm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;23 kph on the 23T sprocket&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  25.5 kph on the 21T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  28 kph on the 19T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  31.6 kph on the 17T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  33.5 kph on the 16T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  35.8 kph on the 15T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  38.3 kph on the 14T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  41.3 kph on the 13T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  45 kph on the 12T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  49 kph on the 11T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you were riding at 30 kph, you could choose from the 15T cog, the 16T or the 17T. One of them will (in my case the 16T) be closest to your optimum cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching up to the 53T chain ring, at 90 rpm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;26 kph on the 23T sprocket&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  28 kph on the 21T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  31 kph on the 19T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  35 kph on the 17T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  37 kph on the 16T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  40 kph on the 15T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  43 kph on the 14T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  46 kph on the 13T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  50 kph on the 12T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  54 kph on the 11T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And still on the 53T chain ring, at 110 rpm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;32 kph on the 23T sprocket&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  35 kph on the 21T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  38 kph on the 19T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  43 kph on the 17T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  46 kph on the 16T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  49 kph on the 15T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  52 kph on the 14T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  56 kph on the 13T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  61 kph on the 12T&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  66 kph on the 11T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now, considering that we have both chain rings available, you can see that at 30 kph you have 2 more possible gears. So depending on the terrain ahead, you would choose the big or small ring and the appropriate back cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For even stronger riders, the bottom gears are only 21 and 23, or maybe as low as 25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T01:58:29.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23100" CreationDate="2014-06-18T07:46:12.393" Score="3" ViewCount="857" Body="&lt;p&gt;My trusty old CF racer was stolen the other day, and I'm looking for a replacement. I saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXSLPULT6800/planet-x-pro-carbon-shimano-ultegra-6800-road-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this bike&lt;/a&gt; at PlanetX and was intrigued. It's a full carbon bike with (last years) Ultegra components for a very reasonable price ( &amp;lt; $2k). It comes with a compact crankset and a short-cage dérailleur. The largest cassette it can accommodate is 11-28, which would give me a lowest gear of 34-28. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not bad, and the same as I had before. But I live in the Alps and I frequently find myself in the lowest gear well before I hit the steepest parts of the hills, so I would like to have a lower gear, if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spoke to the vendor, and they said that it would (at least in theory) be possible to put on a medium-cage dérailleur and an 11-30 cassette. But I was wondering if it would be possible to have a smaller chainring in front instead. Can you get smaller than 34? Or would that not fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some level I'm contemplating putting on a triple instead, but that seems like going back to the 20th century...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T00:27:14.763" Title="How to get a lower gearing" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23092" CreationDate="2014-06-18T08:28:27.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the ultegra hole-diameter is 110mm you won't get anything under 33 on the smaller chainring. That's why I'd recommend going for a medium cage dérailleur with the 11-30 cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said, getting a triple would be 20th century... :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12660" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T08:28:27.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21901" CreationDate="2014-06-18T09:30:27.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fines in the Netherlands for the two most instances of wrong &quot;place on the road&quot; most likely to apply, are at the moment &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.om.nl/onderwerpen/boetes/?&amp;amp;boete_tree=152559,13274,13237,3115&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&amp;euro; 55,-&lt;/a&gt; although there's always article 5, which says you shouldn't endanger others on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find any definitive data on Belgium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10493" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T09:30:27.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23147" CreationDate="2014-06-18T11:36:40.190" Score="18" ViewCount="118738" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago I began hearing a clicking noise coming from the crankset and I can also sense a slight hitch when the right crank is at its upmost position just when it's about to go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interesting thing is that it only happens when pedaling. When i have the bike on the stand I cannot reproduce this no matter how hard I pull and bend the cranks in whatever direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already taken the cranks off and on again and re-tightened them but without any change. &lt;strong&gt;I am afraid that it could be the bottom bracket itself.&lt;/strong&gt; Unfortunately I don't have the tools to tighten it or take it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already checked this page, but could only so far to get the cranks checked:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html#bottom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html#bottom&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom bracket is a Truvativ model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chainring is a Thimano model and has only one chainring (nexus hub shift in the back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I could do or check for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: I think I've tracked it down to be the bottom bracket. If I have the cranks at a certain position and bend them inwards, the clicking is quite noticeable even when not pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastEditorUserId="6482" LastEditDate="2019-06-23T07:10:38.927" LastActivityDate="2019-06-23T07:10:38.927" Title="Noticeable clicking from crankset or bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23092" CreationDate="2014-06-18T12:08:59.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are concerned about fashion or being ridiculed by cycling snobs, go for a compact double with as large a rear cassette as you can find. You can easily get a 32-tooth rear cog for most groupsets and may even be able to fit 11-34 if you're willing to go with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/271401771696?limghlpsr=true&amp;amp;hlpv=2&amp;amp;ops=true&amp;amp;viphx=1&amp;amp;hlpht=true&amp;amp;lpid=108&amp;amp;device=c&amp;amp;adtype=pla&amp;amp;crdt=0&amp;amp;ff3=1&amp;amp;ff11=ICEP3.0.0&amp;amp;ff12=67&amp;amp;ff13=80&amp;amp;ff14=108&amp;amp;ff19=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;something 3rd party&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you actually want to be able to climb hills more easily, go for a triple as PeteH suggests. You will be faster and your knees will thank you in years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While SRAM seem to be moving away from triples entirely, providing some super-wide cassettes for mountain bikes (but not road bikes AFAIK), both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactionhub.com/road/980-our-guide-to-shimanos-road-groupsets-from-tiagra-to-dura-ace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/groupset/catid_8.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Campagnolo&lt;/a&gt; offer a range of modern triples for road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T12:08:59.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23096" CreationDate="2014-06-18T13:04:13.780" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clicking could be coming from where the pedal joins the crank-arm (with the noise sounding as pressure is placed on the pedal at the top of the stroke).  I've had this before, tightened the pedal slightly and no more clicking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, I was never able to generate the correct forces to make it click unless I was on the bike riding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11292" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T13:04:13.780" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23083" CreationDate="2014-06-18T14:51:37.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, that is a junior racing freewheel from back in the day. Juniors have a limited high gear ratio they can use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now as to whether a corn cob ( that was the nickname for it in the USA) really helps or not, every racer certainly believes that they do. And with power meters you can prove it. All I know is that when you're suffering at the back, having just a slightly lower gear to keep the legs spinning helps a lot mentally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the intimidation factor of lining up with special gears that prove you're really a racer. Back when there were only 5 gears on the back and the smallest available chainring was a 42t, that was much more of a real choice than with 10/11 speed setups common now. In the 70's showing up at a race with a big cog bigger than 21t meant you weren't a &quot;serious&quot; racer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-06-18T17:08:12.043" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T17:08:12.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23092" CreationDate="2014-06-18T15:25:10.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The smallest chainring that will fit on a compact double 110 BCD is 33t and they are quite hard to find ( Only TA or custom chainwheel manufacturers make them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, what would be a true triple replacement would be something like a 11-30 with a 30/48. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the 94 BCD cranks are almost all old MTB triples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with putting a large range cassette on that bike is compatibility with the Ultegra 11 spd shifters. I know Shimano 9spd is interchangable between road and mtn, but I'm pretty sure that is not the case 11 speed deraillers. Shimano does sell an 11-32 with that groupset Ultegra 6800, so they must think the medium cage derailler can deal with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-ultegra-6800-11-speed-road-cassette/rp-prod108686&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-ultegra-6800-11-speed-road-cassette/rp-prod108686&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T15:25:10.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21730" CreationDate="2014-06-18T15:56:42.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's unlikely that anyone who has compiled that data would allow you download it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling News has a really good database at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingnews.com/teams&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclingnews.com/teams&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can download rankings that include all the riders with name, country and age at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cqranking.com/men/asp/gen/downloads.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cqranking.com/men/asp/gen/downloads.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that I would try the UCI or each country's governing body, but it's unlikely they would have height and weight stats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6650" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T15:56:42.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-18T16:30:16.900" Score="2" ViewCount="5789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently relocated to Arizona.  The place I am currently staying has no indoor storage for my bike, so I have to leave it outside, all day, every day, baking in this ridiculous 100+ degree weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this going to cause any long term damage to the bike, and are there any extra maintenance steps I have to do to compensate?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8515" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T09:24:56.377" Title="Bike left out in triple digit heat" Tags="&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23102" CreationDate="2014-06-18T16:47:51.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would rather have my bike out in dry heat than wet cold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metal parts are not impacted by the heat (in the range you would get from outside in the sun).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunlight will cause the paint the fade.  Wax will protect the paint.  A cleaner wax will also removes small scuffs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber parts are impacted by the sun and heat.  Sunlight even in the cold ages rubber. If out in the sun then cover rubber parts and/or treat them with a conditioner/protectant.  ArmorAll advertises that it also protects rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A leather seat is aged by heat and sun.  Shade and a leather conditioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autoevolution.com/news/how-to-protect-your-tires-1409.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Protect Your Tires&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can help the tire live longer by treating it with rubber dressing&#xA;  containing an UV-protection agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agree with the comment from mattnz. I get sloppy when I put tire foam on and the brakes suffer. Off the bike is best.  On the bike I release the cables and spray on the bottom.  Disc brakes clearly are easier to avoid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-20T09:24:56.377" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T09:24:56.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23329" CreationDate="2014-06-18T17:10:35.357" Score="3" ViewCount="2913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going on a two week bike trip with a friend and I can only afford a second hand bike. My concern is that I will wind up buying a bike that I later discover was the wrong size for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that in an ideal situation I would try out a bunch of bikes at a shop and pick the one that fits the best, but if I am buying one second hand it's going to be more of a, 'ride it around the block and then make a decision' scenario. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that, are there some tips / things to keep in mind that would help to lower my chances of buying an ill-fitting bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastEditorUserId="11212" LastEditDate="2014-06-19T03:52:35.060" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T14:11:22.750" Title="how to chose the right frame size for touring bike?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23102" CreationDate="2014-06-18T17:30:20.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem that will affect your bike is not directly heat, but UV radiation from sunlight, and that does not only happens when the sun shines directly on the bike, scattered light from the sky and nearby objects will also have an effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UV radiation degrades polymers, plastics, rubber, and similar, sort of toasting them, making them dull, less flexible. I mention polymers because most likely that is what the bike's paint is made of, so yes, leaving the bike out in the sun all the time will cause all sort of problems to bike, from cosmetic damage to deterioration of seals, rim brake pads, hoses, cracking of derailleur pulleys, evaporation of lubricants, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recomendation is that you find a way of building a small shelter for your bike where it can sit not only in shade but in a very dark shade, covered from direct and indirect light. What Im suggesting looks a lot like a big dog house, probably made of wood and sheet metal (probably even lined with some insulating material), it doesn't have to be fancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second alternative is some soft cover, like the ones used for motorcycles, but it has to be a high or medium quality one, a cheap cover may actualy do more harm than benefit. In particular, a cover should let humidity shed out, because otherwise the vapour will suround the bike, later condensating and causing corrossion in the most hidden and unlikely places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think any maintenance will compensate for all day, every day exposure to heat (and UV radiation), because radiation may reach deeper into the material than any conditioner, which almost sure is applied as a liquid or as a paste, thus acting only at surface level. It is also very difficult to thoroughly cover all the affected parts, not to mention laborious and time consuming plus that it would be necessary to perform it in a regular basis. It is more time and cost effective to find shelter for the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2014-06-18T22:25:26.093" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T22:25:26.093" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-18T19:34:49.190" Score="1" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Converting early '90's Trek 1400 from traditional road bars to a flat/straight mtn bar. Converted V-brakes over to use Deore brake levers. Works well. Need to get the shifters up to the bars, replacing the originals on the down tube.  Which shift control/assembly do need ?  (original Shimano 105 components).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12666" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T04:26:11.100" Title="Which Mountain Style Shifter for Early 90's Shimano 105?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23114" CreationDate="2014-06-19T01:56:56.480" Score="5" ViewCount="2992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am buying my first 'real' road bike soon and am comparing the Shimano Ultegra vs. the 105. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read through their websites and marketing literature. What does the semi-vast price difference do for a cyclist, who isn't riding the TDF?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12641" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T00:56:41.753" Title="Bicycle Components: What's The Real Difference?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23108" CreationDate="2014-06-19T02:13:07.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;105 is a good choice for most recreational cyclists. At the 105 group level and above the primary differences are not in function, but marginal weight reduction and increased durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-19T07:20:29.383" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T07:20:29.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18688" CreationDate="2014-06-19T02:14:57.750" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not going to delete to lose the down votes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The stated question is advantage is nitrogen.  Not should I use nitrogen. &#xA;I cover the technical side of the characteristics of nitrogen versus air and the chemical and physical reason for the differences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A nitrogen molecule is larger than oxygen so it does not leak as easily/rapidly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Nitrogen is actually a little lighter than oxygen and an nitrogen atom is smaller. &#xA;In air they both occur as molecules of two atoms. &#xA;The they way the hold hands is different so N₂ is slightly bigger then O₂. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.getnitrogen.org/pdf/graham.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.getnitrogen.org/pdf/graham.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;O2 &quot;permeates&quot; approximately 3-4 times faster than does N2 through a&#xA;  typical rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stable and non-reactive.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Oxygen, nitrogen, are water are all relatively stable and non-reactive.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Oxygen is a stronger oxidizing agent. &#xA;Nitrogen oxidizes the rubber at a lower rate.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better PVT characteristics.  Nitrogen does not change pressure with temperature as much as air. You don't want the pressure in your tires to change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storage and transportation&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are some of rent a bike racks the use nitrogen because it is easier to get a storage and transportation permit.  Oxygen alone is not combustible but it supports combustion.  Nitrogen is not combustible does not support combustion.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why nitrogen versus an inert gas such as Argon?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Nitrogen exists as a molecule N₂ and is nearly as stable as an inert gas.  It is used because it is available.  Nitrogen is a byproduct of liquefaction and fractional distillation of air to produce oxygen. Nitrogen is not an inert gas but a nitrogen molecule N₂ is very stable. It is a relatively cheap dry stable (non reactive) gas. And does not easily liquefy (boiling point of -320 F).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does Nitrogen have better PVT characteristics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the operating range of a tire oxygen and nitrogen have the same PVT characteristics. &#xA;They are both ideal gasses.  Ideal in that they don't liquefy and have neither attractive nor repulsive forces.  They are neutral.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bicycle does not generate enough friction to change the temperature much.  Bicycle will be pretty close to ambient temperature.  If you start a ride in the AM you may get a 10 Celsius swing by 2 PM. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relative to the ideal gas law, PV = NRT, oxygen and nitrogen have the same behavior.  T is absolute in that equation.  0 Celsius is 272 Kelvin (absolute).  10 to 20 Celsius is a difference of 4% in pressure.  So if the tire started at 100 PSI the pressure when to 104 PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water is the PVT problem.  Water is not an ideal gas. In the operating range of a tire H₂0 can exist as a gas and a liquid.  From the liquid state to gas state the volume change is over 100 (this is how you can inflate a tire with a little CO₂ cartridge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the range of 10 Celsius versus 20 Celsius the vapor pressure of H₂0 nearly doubles at atmospheric pressure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapour_pressure_of_water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vapour pressure of water&lt;/a&gt;     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over that same 10 Celsius swing what is the pressure change of water.  The vapor pressure of water doubles.  Where the ideal gas (N₂) changes 4% water changes 100%.  In that same range the water pressure goes up 1 PSI.  So the total PSI is 105.  At only 1% composition water contribute 25% of the pressure change.  The statement from Moz that Nitrogen changes pressure with temperature slightly less than water does is not correct.  The difference is 40X but at only 1% that 40X is still not much of a total contribution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a 1% pressure difference in 10 centigrade.  Racers will go after grams. 1% may matter to them.  It is not clear if racers users nitrogen (in tires).  I see sellers stating it is used by races but I don't see and races saying they use nitrogen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nitrogen is used in altitude tents to reduce the O₂ content.  This stimulates the production of red blood cells.  So racers may use tires as an excuse for nitrogen tanks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From 0 to 100 Celsius the vapor pressure of H₂0 goes from 611 to 101417 Pa.  In that operating range H₂0 is over 100 times more sensitive to temperature than nitrogen or oxygen relative to pressure.  So for a race car the change is noticeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why CO₂ in those portable canisters and not nitrogen?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;CO₂ compresses to liquid state at a lower temperature then nitrogen.  The boiling point of CO₂ is -78 Celsius. Can use CO₂ to inflate a tire and not risk it going back to a liquid state in the operating range of a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-03-16T09:39:16.073" LastActivityDate="2020-03-16T09:39:16.073" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23106" CreationDate="2014-06-19T04:26:11.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the rear, any Shimano shifter (for the right number of speeds) will work - the cable for the rear is the same between mountain and road. On the other hand, the front derailleurs have different cable pulls, and you need the flat bar road shifter (one of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/road/flat_handlebar.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;). You can get the Sora set for 8 speed assuming your bike has an 8 speed cluster in the back (Shimano ST-R221 for the front , Shimano SL-R440-8 for the back). They are pricey though compared to their mountain brethren, and you only need the front one from that pair - the rear can be an 8 speed Alivio or something, but it wont look as nice (but function fine). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some alternatives for the front: depending on if you swap in a closer spaced crankset, you may be able to get a mountain FD to shift it and get a mountain set [depending on how the FD is mounted]. Or more simply, buy a friction shifter for the front and an index shifter for the back. A friction shifter is like 5 bucks for a thumb mounted one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that the riding position does change when you switch from drops to flats, so I'm assuming you've worked out those details already. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T04:26:11.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23108" CreationDate="2014-06-19T08:03:38.967" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should try a few out to assess their shifting performance. Even better if you can do a blind test. Also consider researching the cost of new parts (eg: chains) and the ease of maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion weight is overrated and you can spend a lot of money to make a groupset 100g lighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T08:03:38.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23108" CreationDate="2014-06-19T08:48:14.093" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a couple of things here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First there are the physical properties of the groupsets. As you move up the groupsets, what you're buying into is essentially smoothness and lightness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for a recreational rider, you'd basically need the groupset to hit a certain minimum level of quality, and anything beyond that would be lost by the rider. And my guess is that for many of us the minimum level of quality is probably even lower than 105 - Tiagra and these days maybe even Sora.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of reliability, you could also argue that there is an advantage to a lower-level groupset, because you're riding tried-and-tested technology rather than the &quot;leading edge&quot; technology used by the higher level groupsets (Dura Ace, Ultegra).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why do shops sell the top-end groupsets? I think there is a big psychological aspect to this, and this is my second point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the one hand they are serving the interests of the top-end riders. But on the other hand, they are also catering for a huge bunch of riders (and I include myself in this category) who ride these groupsets simply because they can afford to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @mattnz says in his comment, it is all about vanity. It's exactly the same reason a guy will drive a Ferrari when he could get get from A to B just as quickly (assuming speed limits are observed) in a Ford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, on a practical note, its worth saying that groupsets cost a lot less when bought as part of a bike, than they do when bought standalone. So if you're the type of rider who will say &quot;if only I had a better bike I could smash my pb&quot;, you're better off by going for the superior groupset straight away - it will be cheaper in the long run than getting the lesser groupset and upgrading parts piecemeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, upgrading piecemeal is possible (albeit as I say at a premium). Just note that the current range of Ultegra (6800) is 11-speed, whereas the current 105 (5700) is 10-speed. So to upgrade a 105 part to an Ultegra part, you'd need to look at older (10-speed) Ultegra ranges (6600 or 6700) or even 10-speed Dura Ace (7800). But certainly 6700 is still widely available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-19T09:22:23.287" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T09:22:23.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23096" CreationDate="2014-06-19T12:51:46.230" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple components that can contribute to a clicking or grinding sound in your drive train in addition to the bottom bracket, including the chain, the pedals, the derailleur and the rear hub. That said, the symptoms you describe seem to indicate a problem with the  pedal bearings or the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my steps for troubleshooting the bottom bracket:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull your cranks laterally. Do they move?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the chain from the chainrings and give your cranks a good spin; listen for any unusual grinding noise or little clicks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold the down tube or seat tube while spinning the crank and see if you can feel grinding or vibration through the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of those indicate that you need to service or replace your bottom bracket. That is not a particularly hard task, and if you have been removing or tightening the cranks you likely only need one or two special tools that you may not have. Replacing or repairing bottom brackets is a common task, so it may be worth it to you to pick those tools up. Here are some bottom bracket service instructions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cartridge-bearing-type-bottom-bracket-service-bbt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cartridge Type Bottom Bracket Service&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/adjustable-type-bottom-bracket-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cup and Cone Bottom Bracket Service&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2018-11-14T14:54:11.163" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T14:54:11.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23061" CreationDate="2014-06-19T13:43:25.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bar turns not only look stylish but can also aid in body movements on the bike. If you need to correct position for a landing, such as when you go over a hip, you'll need to turn the bars a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for performance, there is one time it will make a difference, and that's when you use it to 'scrub' a jump. This means it allows you to clear the jump with less height so that you come to the ground quicker and waste less time in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But mostly it just looks really cool and generally indicates more skilled (or more fun) riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T13:43:25.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23134" CreationDate="2014-06-19T15:01:21.613" Score="1" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding steel for a while now and recently added a CAAD10 to the fleet. I am planning on taking it with me on our upcoming vacation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;em&gt;Thule gateeway 2 (trunk rack)&lt;/em&gt; that I've been transporting the steel bikes on very happily. My question is, &lt;em&gt;should I be concerned carrying the lightweight aluminum frame in such a manner&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought the bike home from the shop initially this way and I felt that I had it secured on there without placing too much undue pressure on the frame itself. However, that was a short 5-10 mile transport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I have found it and included here. Upon re-inspection, I see that it says &quot;not recommended&quot; for either, but &quot;do not use&quot; is for CF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;hAnGeR RACk&#xA;On this type the bicycle hangs on two arms projecting aft from a trunk mounted rack: Not recommended for either carbon or aluminum bikes. Do not use on bikes with carbon fiber tubes. The point loading where the arms contact the underside of the tubes may crack the tubes. Additionally the lower part of the bike is difficult to secure, and it may move, causing chafing and structural wear. Additionally when two bikes are mounted on these racks the contact points between the bikes may be cracked or chafed, causing structural damage.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.cannondale.com/media/Manuals/14_Cannondale_Owners_Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF here page labeled 101 (103 of PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5358" LastEditorUserId="5358" LastEditDate="2014-06-19T17:44:07.197" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T22:24:58.430" Title="Lightweight aluminum frame transported via trunk rack" Tags="&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-19T15:26:33.503" Score="4" ViewCount="19006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a Trek FX 7.2 and about 2 weeks after purchase I was riding and I noticed a creaking sound and shortly after the crank fell off. I brought bike back to where I purchased it and they put the crank back on and put the chain derailleur back on as it fell off. Great, no problems with the bike until about 1-2 weeks after where I was out riding and I noticed a creaking noise on the same spot, the left crank. As soon as this started I went right home and tightened the crank the creaking went away. I guess what I am asking is what can I do to the bike so that it does not creak and fall off every 2 weeks. I am a large person standing 6 foot 1 and about 270 pounds. Is the problem I have just a heavy man problem where I need to bring the allen key with me always and tighten it every 2 weeks or can something be done to avoid this entirely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12674" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T07:51:22.343" Title="Why does my bike crank creak and come loose?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23118" CreationDate="2014-06-19T16:18:08.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crank arm bolts must tightened properly using a torque wrench. Too loose and they can work themselves free and too tight and you can strip threads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have that bike shop take the crank apart, make sure that the threads are all still intact and then to tighten it to the proper tension and perhaps using the appropriate threadlock if applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's very hard to get the requisite torque with an Allen key. I have to use a hex bit in my torque wrench and use some force to get to the right torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-06-20T04:48:30.093" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T04:48:30.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23117" CreationDate="2014-06-19T17:17:16.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you worried about the weight of the bike or the pressure of the straps?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding the bike it has to support your weight and the weight of the bike.  On the rack it only has to support the weight of the bike.  The top tube is taking more force with you riding the bike than the bike hanging from the top tube.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for crushing the tube with a strap.  A rubber or cloth strap is not going to crush a metal tube.  Consider the seat post.  You crank down on the metal seat collar with a more force than a strap and it does not damage the tube or seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the OP also posted a link&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.cannondale.com/media/Manuals/2010_Cannondale_Bicycle_Owners_Manual_124451.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OwnerManual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It does recommend not using a hanger rack for aluminum&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Still seems like it would be safe to me  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a thought. First take off an panniers and any bulky items. &#xA;Second take off the wheels. It is going to be light and catch less wind. &#xA;Maybe even drop the seat all the way down. &#xA;I had dogs and bikes (one carbon) the other day and that is what I did.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T22:24:58.430" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T22:24:58.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-19T17:37:28.003" Score="1" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a new student in the US. I noticed that a lot of bikes were left with only a tire locked on a post. Therefore, I usually locked my bike on the water pipe outside my apartment. I put a U-lock between the water pipe and my bike frame. However, after I left my apartment for a week, it was gone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have got a new bike, which is an impressive red Giant. I was really worried that it will be stolen again. Can anyone help me by telling me what else I can do to keep my bike safe in that terrible area. Thanks a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12654" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T17:47:18.750" Title="How to keep my bike safe around campus?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-06-19T21:39:46.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23122" CreationDate="2014-06-19T17:47:18.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This series should prove informative (I have linked the first of three):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/12061685&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hal will show you!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5358" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T17:47:18.750" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-19T19:21:22.083" Score="0" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about start cycling other than just riding it around school. I want to make myself look professional. Do you have any advice for me? I don't really know what kind of outfit is suitable for college students. I think I would love to get a shirt or a tank and a bicycle shorts. Thank you in advance. Does bikers have special shoes, too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12654" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T23:02:32.883" Title="Ask for Recommendation for Biking Outfits" Tags="&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23126" CreationDate="2014-06-19T23:02:32.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not really clear what you mean by &lt;em&gt;look professional&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean a professional cyclist, then a cycling outfit is the way to go. They are designed to be comfortable for cycling, and to keep your leg muscles warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you mean professional as in office worker professional, then that's a problem that many of us struggle with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, how far do you ride? The further you ride, the more likely it is that your clothes will be sweaty and you'll want to change. If it's not that far, in warm weather many biking students here wear long baggy shorts and matching tops, like skateboarders. But you wouldn't say they look professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way to go is to change clothes. Depending on the size of your campus and how modern it is, it likely has a decent gym with showers, and maybe locker facilities. Many students take gym membership to access those facilities; you can keep a change of clothes, and a towel there, and shower and change before classes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T23:02:32.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23118" CreationDate="2014-06-19T23:44:56.703" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Square taper cranks are easily damaged if they a ridden loose. You may find that the only fix is to replace the crank. If after tightening to the correct torque they continue to loosen, they must be replaced. Over tightening, while tempting, is not the correct solution and will lead to maintenace problems down the track. (Essentially someone will have to remove the crank for some reason, it will keep coming loose after that and eventually be replaced. The process of fixing will take several attempts as the presumption will be the crank is in good condition when it is not) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the bike back to the the shop. As the crank has come loose again, ask them to replace it. If they refuse, be prepared to take your bike back every two weeks until they install new ones. Do not &quot;fix&quot; the bike yourself. The LBS might claim it was something you did that caused the problem.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T23:44:56.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23108" CreationDate="2014-06-20T00:56:41.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some levels of group set give higher level of customisation too, like shorter or longer crank length for example or shifter adjustability. Electric group sets also give some functionality too, i.e. not having to adjust/tune derailleurs and guaranteed perfect shift every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than functionality there's weight and bling, which could be socially important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer a balance approach, if you're buying a top level bike, then get Dura Ace to match. If it's a second level bike, then get Ultegra, and so on. Otherwise you will risk someone (like me ;) asking why you put tiagra on a nice bike, you're not doing justice and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T00:56:41.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23118" CreationDate="2014-06-20T01:01:40.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Trek FX series is their fitness line, and these have a max rider capacity of 300 lbs. Don't worry, it isn't your weight. And I applaud you buying a bike to get in shape. It's why I bought one too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12641" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T01:01:40.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23152" CreationDate="2014-06-20T02:09:22.977" Score="4" ViewCount="684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was was checking out this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00CULFR4Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike light&lt;/a&gt;.  It looks good enough for me.  I (rarely) get lost on trails around dusk, but more importantly I commute - a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; by bike.  I really just want to be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What caught my eye was the review: there are nearly 500 5 star, and a mere &lt;em&gt;17&lt;/em&gt; 1 star review.  I'll take my chances.  But this is where it starts getting questionable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, they make sure  you get to read #1 Bike light on Amazon, if it is.  Okay.  But, in the video they use to advertise it, they claim that most bicycle accidents happen at night - they don't, as you can read about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rospa.com/roadsafety/advice/cycling/info/cycling_accidents_factsheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  They also flash statistics in the video that aren't related to the time of day... at all....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedbikeinfo.org/data/factsheet_crash.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;government source&lt;/a&gt; says it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; more risky to ride at night (more people probably ride during the day.  Is it &lt;em&gt;proportionately&lt;/em&gt; more dangerous?)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this marketing practice unethical?  I don't want to reward unethical advertising with cash, but in the grand scheme of things it's probably more important that the &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; selling a quality product if they say they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the ratings have been (partly) faked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone used one?  I can't seem to find a review of the dang thing on youtube, as popular as they are supposed to be!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:38:14.803" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T07:13:02.857" Title="Is this a good bike light? And should I give these people my money?" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23131" CreationDate="2014-06-20T02:30:53.127" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sellers on Amazon.com have a lot of leeway in the naming of their products and advertising script they use. In that sense, Amazon is becoming more and more like ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than the feedback (or lack thereof), the technical specs of the light should be warning you to stay away. Powered by only 3xAAAs, there's no way this light is getting more than a few dozen lumens. The AAAs don't have enough amperage and the fact that the light is using 3 of them indicates that it's more or less direct-drive and isn't using any sophisticated buck-boost circuitry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the advertising photograph showing it lighting up a trail is fishy. The light on that bike is clearly not the light advertised. It's much larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to light up the night, you have to get a light that's powered by something more powerful than alkaline batteries. Most of us with 300+ lumen spots use lights powered by three or four 18650 rechargeable lithium-ions. These can give off a constant 3-4 amps of power each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, reviews are easily faked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T02:30:53.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4750" CreationDate="2014-06-20T05:12:17.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;700 c tire will is too small to put on 27&quot; rim... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spend hours try to pull it in, and end up puncture inner tube... not worth the trouble, definitely get 27 tire... not worth the time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12680" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T05:12:17.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23117" CreationDate="2014-06-20T06:56:40.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far a aluminum goes, do this experiment. Get an empty soda can with no dents and stand on it. It will support your weight. Now put the tiniest dent in the side, notice how easily this happens. Stand on it and it collapses with a fraction of the weight it previously supported. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this translate to bikes? A bike frame is built much much stronger than it needs to be to support the forces generated when riding. They are built to withstand the forces that will cause dents, the even a dent in aluminum can be catastrophic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When placing a bike on a rack such as yours, there is a chance it can be dented - probably not from straps being too tight, most likely from other bikes on the same rack banging into it. If you secure the bikes firmly, they are fine. You must use padding between them of some sort - &quot;Dog Bones&quot; are great (plastic spacers with a strap at each end), or foam.  If the bikes can swing around freely you damage them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this style rack for years with aluminum bikes, as do most of my mates. The main reason to discourage the use of such racks is every bike I carry has paint damage from rubbing against another bike where I was a little less careful than I could have been putting them on. I have seen derailleurs knocked off from them as well. Roof racks or rail based racks are much better at protecting the bike in transit and virtually ensure no forces are generated that will break a frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T06:56:40.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23131" CreationDate="2014-06-20T07:17:11.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The linked flashlight is absolute crap: i have bought one for about 2 $ off ebay, inclunding a cheap tail light, and it is bright enough to lighten up the way to the bathroom at night without disturbing my wife. Not more, not less.&#xA;For serious commuting, i would recommend a USB-chargeable bike light, like the Lezyne Power Drive or Super Drive series: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008R5Q9OG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Lezyne-Power-Drive-LED-Silver/dp/B008R5Q9OG/ref=sr_1_8?s=sporting-goods&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1403247933&amp;amp;sr=1-8&amp;amp;keywords=lezyne+led&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a similar one from BBB (USB, Li-Ion, symmetric emmission)  with measured 450 Lumens, and use it at about 150 Lumens most of the time. I also built a small lid to avoid blinding forthcoming riders, and as a side effect, the lid reflects more light to the ground, making it more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12639" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T07:17:11.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18688" CreationDate="2014-06-20T11:29:43.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely none. Filling tyres with nitrogen matters in Formula One car, not in bicycle. In bicycle, difference between air and nitrogen filled tyres is hardly measurable. All advantages of nitrogen in bicycle tyres are no more than placebo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11348" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T11:29:43.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23138" CreationDate="2014-06-20T11:52:39.810" Score="1" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;What tool do i need to dismount a shimano bb-un26 bottom bracket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will a Park Tool BBT-22 work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T12:13:59.290" Title="Tool for shimano bb-un26 Bottom Bracket" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23137" CreationDate="2014-06-20T12:13:59.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Park  BBT-22 should work, but if you don't already have one, you might find the &lt;strong&gt;Shimano TL-UN74-S&lt;/strong&gt; cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T12:13:59.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-20T13:31:50.343" Score="2" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a newbie on bikes and i want to buy one. I want to buy a bike that i can cover some small city road distances ~30km daily with comfort and to be able to go on some mountain trails when i got time on weekend so i can get some experience in dirt trails and if i like it to consider in the future buy a fs downhill bike. I think that cross country hardtail with lockout suspension is the type of bike i search! I want to give a budget about ~1000 - 1500 euro. I don't have any riding experience so it would help me a lot if someone has a xc ht that he also uses it for that kind of distances in city road, for some feedback! If Its too unconfortable i may consider to buy a cx! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestion would be useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12683" LastEditorUserId="12683" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T16:45:03.810" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T16:45:03.810" Title="Bike type xc ht or cx?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-06-21T15:30:44.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21886" CreationDate="2014-06-20T14:12:24.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work at a bicycle rental shop and we use Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour tires on all our rental bikes, and we never get punctures.  They are better than the solid rubber tires as they weigh less and have more spring to them.  Also, if you get a broken spoke, getting the solid rubber tires off and back on is just about impossible!  So check out schwalbe tires, and than get the highest level protection available from them with tires that fit on your bike.  The marathon plus tour are the highest level protection (level 6).  But level 5 might be all you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12684" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-06-20T15:56:45.390" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T15:56:45.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23139" CreationDate="2014-06-20T14:48:40.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An XC MTB should certainly be workable for what you want. Depending on the trails and your skill level a cyclo-cross bike would also be a reasonable choice as well.&#xA;There are lot's of bikes like this on the market now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/jake_the_snake.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.konaworld.com/jake_the_snake.cfm&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the trails are mostly packed dirt with few rocks, then a CX bike works pretty well off road and will generally be a much nicer commute bike. The rougher the trail, the more suspension helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of getting an XC MTB, the key things to look at are the components and quality of the fork. At that price range I would look for a good quality Fox or Rock Shox fork that used an air chamber. Shimano SLX or XT components or the equivalent SRAM ( Nice chart here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycle-tips/know-your-bicycle/sram-mtb-component-hierarchy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycle-tips/know-your-bicycle/sram-mtb-component-hierarchy&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing to remember is that you won't get it exactly right the first time around. Until you're out there and riding you really can't know exactly what the right bike for you is, and the right bike will change over time as you gain fitness and skills. Components from the major manufacturers, even at the entry level are all of very high quality these days. As long as you get a bike that fits you, it's pretty hard to get the wrong bike these days. Take your budget and reserve 30% for getting upgrades and tweaks as you learn more about exactly the kind of riding you like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one caveat is extremely cheap bikes sold at large retailers. Basically, you get what you pay for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T14:48:40.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23139" CreationDate="2014-06-20T16:41:52.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cross country with a lockout would be decent commuter. &#xA;Probably the best mountain style for the road.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would put small block tires on it. &#xA;They would have better grip, smoother roll, and longer life on pavement. &#xA;On the trail they do fine on hard pack and rock. &#xA;A knobby would be better on mud. &#xA;Full lockout is nice for the street but don't eliminate the adjustable as the stiff setting would be OK on the street.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other style of bike to look at is a cyclocross. &#xA;It is going to be a better road bike. &#xA;It is designed for lighter trails. &#xA;If you just just look at one you would think this is not going to handle trails but it does better than you would think. &#xA;I know you are looking to narrow and not expand your search. &#xA;If you are going to commute 5 days a week and only some trail it might be a better style. &#xA;Something to consider before you lay out ~1000 - 1500 euro. &#xA;Since you are newbie then I don't advise you go used but you get racers selling cyclocross every year or two so there are some great used values. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you want to narrow your search but you also have bikes designed to fit in the middle. &#xA;This is a bike to consider:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/fitness/crosstrail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CrossTrail&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;looking for the efficiency of a road bike with proven off-road componentry&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are so many styles of bikes now that it is hard to decide.  Bike shops will help you select the proper bike and fit you to the bike.  As a newbie I would not decide over the web and order online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a comment you asked about efficiency (and distance).  Distance does not affect efficiency.  Over a small distance efficiency is just not as big a factor.   I am used to miles so will report in miles.  That is about 12 miles.  So at 12 mph it is 60 minutes and at 14 mph it is about 50 minutes.  You should get a 2 mph bump on a cyclocross (for me it is  3-4 mph).  So a difference of like 10 minutes.  But you may want the exercise.  Not all of that is the style of bike as the cyclocross is also going to have more narrow tires.  On a longer distance the drop bars are are nice.  You can vary hand position to spread fatigue and more aerodynamic.  For your commute can go either way.  But if you want to go on some 40 miles road rides then cyclocross (and some more road type tires).  I have done 100 miles on my cyclocross (with road tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T09:29:06.870" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T09:29:06.870" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18418" CreationDate="2014-06-20T17:10:16.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding the question &quot;from the standpoint of the rim being backwards&quot; (not tire) the answer is none that I am aware of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly on the rear with drive train or disk brakes this is not an option.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never seen a rotation indication on a (non drive) rim or hub.  I have bought new wheels and in the box the skewer was separate with no directions regarding which direction to install it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to vclaw a dynamo hub can have a direction and it is marked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doubt it is a factor on a bike but in a car with radial tires typically they tell you not to switch direction (rotate some side only) as it breaks down the belts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T09:22:42.270" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T09:22:42.270" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23139" CreationDate="2014-06-20T18:03:49.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might check &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sram.com&lt;/a&gt; to get somewhat familiar with the names of the components and which might be a bit better. For the most part something just better than the entry level components will be good. For Shimano Deore is would be a good level to start. I'm not sure on SRAM. This probably won't be your last bike so no need to spend it all now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12687" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T18:03:49.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23096" CreationDate="2014-06-20T22:06:40.353" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clicking, only under load and always at the same point of the stroke, can be due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bad pedal.  I've had this a couple of times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The crank arm slipping on the crank.  Generally if you've been riding it this way for more than 100 miles or so the crank arm (and possibly the crank) will have been permanently damaged, but tightening the fixing bolt may work, and I've always wondered if one couldn't use a shim (cut from a pop can) to &quot;save&quot; a worn arm in this situation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The BB cartridge is shifting inside the housing, because the cups are not tight enough.  This problem is annoying but probably not a structural issue, though eventually the cups could wear to the point that it gets worse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A loose chainring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something somewhere else on the bike that simply clicks as the frame flexes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T22:06:40.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23153" CreationDate="2014-06-20T23:10:42.257" Score="2" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it worth $250?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seller says he bought it for $350 from a bike shop.&#xA;It's got no visible decals from the pictures...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9b7aE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFHMg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xSsan.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lGe4E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9hash.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12691" LastEditorUserId="12691" LastEditDate="2014-06-20T23:17:52.870" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T16:50:52.380" Title="Can you identify this cheap single speed bike?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23096" CreationDate="2014-06-21T01:28:36.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar clicking experience. Not really varying under different load, nor at a certain position of crank arms. Everyone I asked said to me it was the ball bearings in the bottom bracket. I pulled the BB out, spinned it in my hands, heard all sort of creaking sounds coming out of it - as if it was full of sand. Bought the new one, installed it: et voilà, no clicking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom bracket was two years old with about 4000 km on it (FSA if I'm not mistaken).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11255" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T01:28:36.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-21T02:51:09.620" Score="1" ViewCount="3857" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the conversion of a (XL) frame to it's measurement in inches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12693" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T07:19:01.403" Title="What is the measurement in inches of a XL frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23148" CreationDate="2014-06-21T03:36:41.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the manufacturer so you'll need to check the frame geometry specs. Even frames sized in inches or centimeters are not all the same, since different manufacturers measure between different points to describe frame size. There's usually a diagram on the frame spec page defining the different measurements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T03:36:41.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23148" CreationDate="2014-06-21T03:37:49.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the particular frame - XL doesn't mean a specific size. Also, even for frames labeled as the same size number (say 23&quot; or something), thats only one measurement to summarize the size of the bike - there are many more which can make a bike fit or not - top tube length, stand over height, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ntzyo.png&quot; alt=&quot;trek&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Look at all of the quantities labeled on the figure, courtesy of Trek).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two most important though are top tube length (E) and standover height (B?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T07:19:01.403" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T07:19:01.403" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23131" CreationDate="2014-06-21T06:22:12.223" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK so I do a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of bike light reviews. I &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/category/lights-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;originally started writing them&lt;/a&gt; for this very site's community blog, and now I run a separate website called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelightdatabase.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Bike Light Database&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Has anyone used one? I can't seem to find a review of the dang thing on youtube, as popular as they are supposed to be!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelightdatabase.com/generic/creeq5genericlight/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reviewed this light specifically&lt;/a&gt;, and can say that while it is cheap, it's not a good choice for someone who seriously bikes at night. The build quality is poor, it doesn't put out much light, and the optics are crap. There's no side visibility. The mount is annoying to use and bulky. The light dims quickly as the non-rechargeable batteries drain, and the contacts are of poor quality so sometimes the light just stops working unexpectedly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this marketing practice unethical? I don't want to reward unethical advertising with cash, but in the grand scheme of things it's probably more important that the are selling a quality product if they say they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think their page makes a lot of dubious claims. The taillight in the video isn't the taillight they include. My rule of thumb is, if the Amazon product title says anything more than the name of the product or is more than 1 line long, I don't buy it. They're trying too hard to sell it and it's probably crap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, some of those pictures are very obviously other products. This is a real beamshot of the light that I took. You can see an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelightdatabase.com/beamshots/#left%5Bmode%5D=20&amp;amp;left%5Blight%5D=creeq5genericlight&amp;amp;right%5Bmode%5D=22&amp;amp;right%5Blight%5D=streak280&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;interactive version to compare it with other lights&lt;/a&gt; on the site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://static.bikelightdatabase.com/media/beamshots/q5_high.JPG&quot; alt=&quot;bike light beamshot pic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Could the ratings have been (partly) faked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking through the reviews on the page you linked, many of them are verified purchases, but not all are. I think it's unlikely that &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; would be faked, but there may well be some fakes. The real issue is that to a lot of people, it seems like a perfectly good bike light because they've never seen a good bike light. It's cheap, it does what they expect (lights up), and it doesn't have any immediately obvious problems, so it gets 5 stars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For people with a small budget and simple needs, this light is just what they want. That doesn't mean the advertising is truthful, and it doesn't mean the light is any good. It's the same as asking somebody who bought their bike at WalMart if they like it. &quot;Oh yeah, 5 stars, it's great! Totally has pedals, moves forwards, even stops when I use the brakes!&quot; And yet we know better here than to buy a bike at WalMart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also addressed the issue of &quot;eBay China lights&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelightdatabase.com/faq/#china&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in my FAQ&lt;/a&gt;. While on the surface the specifications look just as good as any other light, it's the details of the design (not to mention the ethics of the company and their marketing) that make the difference. There's also a lot of lies in the specs that companies list - I highly doubt this light actually puts out 200 lumens, for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully that sort of answers your questions. If you'd like to talk more about lights, ping me &lt;a href=&quot;http://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/214/the-velodrome&quot;&gt;in the site chat&lt;/a&gt; or leave a comment, I like discussing lights! And if you're looking for a better light to choose, I have some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelightdatabase.com/best/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pretty detailed suggestions on my lights site&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.643" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T06:22:12.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23146" CreationDate="2014-06-21T07:59:59.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those wheels are worn.  That would need to be a $700 bike new to be worth $250 in that condition.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures don't show detail on the items like brakes, bb, crank, wheel, hub, and chainring that would give a clue. If you are not finding mid range name brand components that bike is not worth $250.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lowest end bike is under $100.  This is picture of $300 bike new.  Assume that is a low end bike until you have evidence it is not. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LRLHc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-22T16:50:52.380" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T16:50:52.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23156" CreationDate="2014-06-21T09:32:33.220" Score="8" ViewCount="11972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going on a bike trip and need the extra storage supplied by front panniers. But my bike has front suspension. I can replace the fork with a solid one but that will increase my costs. Is it &#xA;A) possible,&#xA;B) a good idea, &#xA;to attach panniers to forks w suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T23:15:59.080" Title="Can you attach front panniers to shocks?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23157" CreationDate="2014-06-21T09:39:09.413" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my front suspension forks with hard forks (no suspension). My bike has disk brakes, a dynamo (that seems to attach to the wheel hub), and mud flaps. Are these sorts of things easily added to any non-suspension fork or do I need to find something specifically designed for these needs? If so, what should I look for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastEditorUserId="11212" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T14:04:31.340" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T16:32:01.463" Title="Difficulty &amp; Value of replacing suspension forks w disk brakes (for Touring)" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23154" CreationDate="2014-06-21T09:46:38.617" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's common. Many low rider racks come with oversize U bolts specifically for this purpose, and the better ones bolt on to the brake posts like the Old Man Mountain rack shown below. If you're really lucky your suspension fork will have mounts for standard low-rider racks already (that's very rare though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RPlUi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;low rider on suspension fork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few caveats. First, try to put minimal weight in those panniers. Suspension forks are not as strong as solid ones - they're designed to take a specific set of forces and avoid others by being suspension forks. I'd fill the front panniers with low density stuff (clothes, sleeping bag etc). Second, don't overtighten the clamps. If you crush the wall of the fork even slightly it is very likely to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also put a handlebar bag on as usual, but those are designed for small, light items and are essentially a big wallet - cash, phone, camera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T09:46:38.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23155" CreationDate="2014-06-21T10:04:24.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheel should attach to the new fork with the current hub.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just need to match the tube diameter and height.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to match the height for a bike designed for shock.  Like look at a Salsa Vaya compared to Fargo.  The Fargo comes with solid but can take a suspension.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did not post the size of the wheel or fork but this is an example of fixed fork that replaces a suspension. &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/forks/ogre_fork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OrgeFork&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to match brakes.  Often they will support more than 1 brake type.  That Orge supports disc I think - most 29&quot; most do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And checked used.  Most people go the other direction (solid to shock).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also posted a question on mounting a rack. Look for fork with mounts for fender and rack.  Why did you decide to not put a rack on the suspension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for if you are on a budget should you go ahead and put a rack on shock?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would say yes use the shock and put the money into a nicer rack and/or nicer bags. &#xA;A decent set of bags is $100. &#xA;Put your lighter stuff up front. &#xA;A mountain bike with shocks for a road touring is not ideal but that is where you are. &#xA;As for a point of failure I would not worry about that unless you have an indication you shocks are failing. &#xA;If you can find a used solid fork &lt;strong&gt;with rack mount&lt;/strong&gt; for $40 and can install it yourself then I would do it.  There is a Salsa Fargo fork on ebay right now that multiple attachment points.  If it fits your bike it would be nice.  I don't know how much of a budget you are on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T16:32:01.463" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T16:32:01.463" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23159" CreationDate="2014-06-21T14:00:10.553" Score="2" ViewCount="14408" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard people talk a lot about Old Man Mountain racks. What other options are there? Roughly speaking, in your experience, how do they compare? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically interested in this for touring but that probably goes without saying given the product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a set of ortlieb front runner bags. so i just need the racks to attach them over mount bike suspension forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastEditorUserId="11212" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T14:37:39.220" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T05:35:11.963" Title="Good Brands for Front Pannier Rack on Suspension Forks" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-07-03T00:35:16.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23158" CreationDate="2014-06-21T14:21:36.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get the rack first or get them together.  You need the panniers to attach solid.  Not all racks have the same places to attach.  I have Surly Ortleib combo but that is like $200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An over the top design like this gives you more storage.  And you could lash some stuff and maybe skip the panniers. Those two little tabs on the bottom are nice for lashing.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xd4p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/cargo/surly_rack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SurlyRack&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Give yourself an hour or two to install.  Lots spacers and lots of positions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on a fork look for threads at the bottom of the fork and mid fork. That bike also has threads on the inside for another attachment point but don't worry about that.  Go to the gallery.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/bikes/2014_vaya_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vaya&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-22T13:17:47.330" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T13:17:47.330" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23276" CreationDate="2014-06-21T14:55:12.707" Score="8" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lent my bike to a friend of mine who washed it with a pressure washer. I already replaced the bowden case, which prevented me from using the brakes due to the washed out lubrication. I lubricated the chain as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't experienced any other problems yet, but I'm worried about damaging the bike if I ride it without further repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it necessary to repair or lubricate something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12689" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T01:34:28.047" Title="Bike washed with pressure washer. How to recover?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-21T15:37:44.967" Score="2" ViewCount="2429" Body="&lt;p&gt;The weather where I live is very bad sometimes. I was thinking of buying either a magnetic or fluid trainer or rollers. I read that the tyres wear out quickly on those and one should use specific tyres for indoor trainers and rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a little confused about the sizing. In a sticker on my rims, it says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ETRTO Rim size: 584 x 19C Inner Rim Width: 19C&#xA;ETRTO Recommend Tire Section Width: 28mm - 62mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my tyres there's the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;37-622 (700 x 37C - 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do these mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The indoor trainer tyres I'm looking for have a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;26 x 1,1&#xA;700 x 23C&#xA;26 x 1,75&#xA;700 x 32C&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one of these suits my rims? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11107" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T16:00:06.303" Title="Bicycle trainer tyre - understanding the sizing" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23161" CreationDate="2014-06-21T16:00:06.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're on the right track buying a trainer-specific tire- trainers generate a decent amount of heat and eat tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your current tire is a 700c x 37, so out of the list, I'd go for the 700 x 32. The 26 options won't fit on the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T16:00:06.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-21T18:54:04.013" Score="1" ViewCount="1263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to purchase a Cannondale Bad Boy 1 through Craigslist, owner not entirely sure which year model, how can I identify which year is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12667" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T18:54:04.013" Title="How can I properly identify Cannondale Bad Boy 1 year model?" Tags="&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21113" CreationDate="2014-06-21T19:03:53.107" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a bit of aluminum anodizing which requires annealing (softening) of the metal. This happens at about 650F. You mentioned the drop bars being melted so I suspect the top tube is likely annealed and won't have the same stiffness as it's suppose to. It may flex more than it should and may cause other parts to flex more also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head tube bearings were also mentioned and should be checked. I also wouldn't trust the seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12687" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T19:03:53.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2014-06-21T19:53:27.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at the exact same bikes because I think I want to ride longer rides than just commuting to work. I've test ridden the 2014 Defy Advanced carbon 1 with Ultegra, 2013 Defy carbon 2 with SRAM Apex, and 2014 Defy 1 aluminum with 105.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not ride enough to tell if the Advanced carbon is that much better than the regular carbon but both are much nicer and smoother to ride than the aluminum. I think this will be good for longer rides. The carbon frames were definitely lighter than the aluminum but the aluminum was still very light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanical Ultegra group set was very precise but so was the 105 group set. I didn't like the Apex set mostly for the shift levers. The Shimano sets had much lighter shifting and shifts felt very solid. Adjustments may make the Apex just as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my budget I can afford the Defy 1 aluminum but will wait till I can afford the 2014 Defy carbon 2 with 105. Shimano has a new 11 speed 105 group so that could be available next year on the Defy but this may also push the price up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to test ride the bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12687" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T19:53:27.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-21T22:29:51.397" Score="3" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some years ago I used a rear carrier with a bundle buggy lashed on to carry stuff around.  I had a problem with wheel wobble.  I thought a rebuild as 4 cross (instead of std 3 cross) might help.  The guy in the shop where I bought the spokes noticed a cracked rim (actually both front &amp;amp; back).  After I rebuilt the back wheel 4 cross with a new rim, the wobble was gone.  Don't know if the 4 cross fixed it, as I don't know how long the rim was cracked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of building a cargo trailer, and am wondering if anyone has any knowledge on whether rebuilding a wheel to 4 cross for the additional stability it may bring (the old bike is long gone) is worth the effort for short trips with 50-60 lb of freight.  the trailer would be attached to the rear axle, not the seat post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12697" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T16:44:55.153" Title="structure of rear wheel to support cargo trailer" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23166" CreationDate="2014-06-21T22:39:48.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not bother. But then, I would not bother with 4 cross in the first place. Spoke count matters more - a 24 spoke racing wheel is just not designed to be used for load carrying. What I think is important is (in order) 32 or more spokes, a properly built wheel, a decent rim, and a decent hub. You can do a lot just with a properly built wheel because if the spoken tension is nice and even even a relatively low-quality rim will not be stressed past its limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've carried a &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.geek.nz/mozbike/ride/carry/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lot of heavier things&lt;/a&gt; and built a few load bikes and trailers over the years. Especially with a trailer, 30kg is not a particularly heavy load. For the rider, loads under half your body weight should be easy for anyone who rides regularly. Your main issue is likely to be lateral forces on the rear wheel, and the way to reduce those is riding style. I would leave buying a better rear wheel until after you have problems with your current one. Largely because you probably won't have problems with it. Unless it's a low spoke count wheel, in which case I suggest getting a second hand steel frame MTB and never using your racing bike for lowing a trailer if you can avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, FWIW, I found towing a trailer with 30kg of stuff on it quite hard on a fixie. If you're going to do that, at least make sure you have both front and rear brakes because stopping suddenly on a fixie is hard enough as it is, adding a trailer just makes it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-22T02:59:59.567" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T02:59:59.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23174" CreationDate="2014-06-21T23:31:35.827" Score="1" ViewCount="3370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Manitou Skareb. I think it is a 2005. It was working fine the last time I rode it. I pulled the bike out after about 1 month of not riding and I could push the fork down about 1.5 inches with very little pressure on the fork. When I lift the front wheel off the ground, the wheel drops down immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air pressure in the fork is 140 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what the problem might be or how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12698" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T17:25:00.090" Title="What is the problem with my suspension fork?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23171" CreationDate="2014-06-22T00:59:48.540" Score="5" ViewCount="4589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a basic beater bike for pootling around the neighbourhood. All it has for brakes is a rear Sturmey-Archer AWC coaster brake. Having used almost every other kind of hand-operated brake in over 30 years of cycling, the coaster brake seems very strange:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;stopping at a junction doesn't seem to allow any kind of gradual stop; you have to keep both feet on the pedals until the bike stops, then kind of flop off the pedal to put your foot down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;starting up again at junctions requires you to remember to leave your lead pedal at the 2pm position, because you can't back-pedal to get it to where you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should point out that I'm using this on quiet, mostly flat areas, and am not mixing it in heavy, fast traffic. I have other bikes for such use. I'm also referring to small-e effective, not Forester-style big-E Effective Cycling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how does one ride with a coaster and stay safe and sane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5532" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T02:17:31.233" Title="Effective use of a coaster brake?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23169" CreationDate="2014-06-22T01:02:38.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add a front hand brake is the easiest way. But otherwise, you have to get used to it. You should have 2 independent braking systems anyway in case one fails (and your face doesn't count as one). But you are prone to skidding and ineffective stopping with a coaster brake in general (which is why they're pretty much only on kids bikes now a days, or in some other special cases, e.g. certain tricks). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T01:02:38.610" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23169" CreationDate="2014-06-22T02:17:31.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stopping is relatively easy - the rearmost foot is pressing back/down on the pedal to operate the brake, the other goes on the ground. If you're used to two feet on the ground when stopped you'll need to practice stopping with one foot first. You probably need to swap anyway, so the foot on the pedals is ready to push down when you move off. It's vaguely annoying but you'll get used to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To shuffle the pedals around while stationary you need to be pushing gently as if you're trying to pedal forwards, while rolling the bike backwards. Again, it's annoying. When I ride a bike like this I quickly get a little system organised so that I stop, rotate the pedals forward to disengage the brake and get ready to move off, then roll back a little until the foot that's on the pedal ready to start is in the right position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do think you should fit a front brake of some sort just for safety. Braking with the rear wheel is less effective, especially in an emergency stop situation. Even a cheap caliper brake is better than nothing (and often that's all those bikes are set up for).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10584" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T02:17:31.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20861" CreationDate="2014-06-22T16:12:52.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hadn't realised the TM-1 was that vague! I use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/spoke-tension-gauge/id518870820?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spoke Tension Gauge&lt;/a&gt; app on an iPhone which gives very consistent &amp;amp; repeatable results once the spokes are sufficiently tensioned to make a clear note when plucked. I can usually get even tension within ±20N with DT Competition spokes and ±40N with Revolution; the limiting factor is that the smallest turn of the wrench makes a bigger difference than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time it's given me trouble has been the left-side of a Mavic Reflex rear wheel: the low upper-limit on maximum tension (900N) meant the left-side spokes were barely measurable when the right-side spokes were maxed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience if I calculate what the spoke tensions should be on both sides and set all spokes to that the wheel is true/straight/correctly-dished. I only use my other gauges now to verify my calculations…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T16:12:52.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23166" CreationDate="2014-06-22T16:44:55.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of the hubs I have used recently (Shimano XT, Dura-Ace, 105, and a few OEM ones I had kicking around) can be safely built 4-cross because each spoke would interfere with the spoke head of its first crossing spoke. This adds an unnecessary challenge to building the wheel and makes the wheel weaker than it needs to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of crosses makes almost no difference to wheel strength. Things that do make a big difference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use 32- or 36-spokes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use double-butted spokes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure the spoke tension is even and as high as permitted by the rim you are using.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High tension gets more important the more load you are putting on the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T16:44:55.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23168" CreationDate="2014-06-22T17:25:00.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your fork has both air and oil in it; if the air component is fine it follows that the oil component is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was not stored upright the problem is probably that the oil is in the wrong part of the fork and will gradually make its way beck to its designed location if you leave it the right way up for a day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for oil leaks at all points around the fork (and oily residue wherever you had stored it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibilities are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an internal seal has failed and is no longer controlling the flow of oil/air within the fork leg as it should be;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the oil has become contaminated with water;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the oil has broken down into a foam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any of these cases it will need to be disassembled and serviced: I would leave that to the professionals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T17:25:00.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21757" CreationDate="2014-06-22T18:29:15.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say what derailleur and shifter you have, but if they are an indexed Campagnolo system the spacing they're designed for is different in the middle of the cassette to the ends. I had exactly these symptoms with a 10-speed Campagnolo cassette on a SRAM bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have an array of problems if the mech and shifter's idea of cable pull do not match, particularly with an indexed system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have exactly this problem trying to use any non-7-speed shifter/mech with a 7-speed system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get these symptoms if the B screw of the derailleur doesn't leave enough clearance between the top jockey wheel and the sprocket on the cassette, but it is more usual for this to affect the easy gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T18:29:15.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20934" CreationDate="2014-06-22T18:42:52.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.wahoofitness.com/wahoo-rflkt-plus-iphone-powered-bike-computer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wahoo RFLKT+&lt;/a&gt; is the only device on the market as far as I am aware (and I have looked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a BTLE user I can tell you you're better off with ANT+; I get far more sensor drops than my ANT+ co-riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T18:42:52.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23180" CreationDate="2014-06-22T22:14:02.630" Score="1" ViewCount="4358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Fuji Absolute 3.0 (about 2011) with a generic crankset. The triple chainrings are stamped with 'SAMOX'. It is a 30-42-52t set. I favour the middle chainring, which is now badly worn and needs to be replaced. I have also recently replaced the chain and cassette (8 speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The teeth on the largest and smallest ring are in relatively good order, and I have a tight budget, so my preference is to change only the middle ring. However, I can't find any SAMOX parts or any details about the compatibility, and I don't know anything about chainring specifications, bolt layouts, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other option is to replace the entire crankset and bottom bracket (there are occasional creaks and bangs, so it might be time to do so), but then I face not only the cost, but also ensuring the crankset will match the other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know whether a Shimano or other 42t chainring will fit this configuration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12700" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T23:22:43.277" Title="Replacement chainring compatibility" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-22T23:06:02.940" Score="2" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my plastic shifters broke and I am looking for a replacement on the internet. How do I know whether a replacement will fit my handlebar. Are all handlebars the same size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12709" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T17:32:50.363" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T17:32:50.363" Title="Replacing a shifter" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23178" CreationDate="2014-06-22T23:11:03.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use another brand's chainring just fine, provided that the chainrings are replaceable (some cheaper cranksets are made such that all the chainrings are made in one piece). Assuming that is the case, you just need to measure the B.C.D. as shown &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, find a chainring with the same BCD and number of bolts and number of teeth and bolt it on (there is a table of common sizes there).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the bikes direct picture, it looks like it uses 104 mm 4 bolt chainrings, but thats the current version (so check it out yourself) - do the measurement with a ruler as shown in the prior link. EDIT: This may be a different bike - several different models come up on google for the same bike name. Do the measurement with the ruler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/chainrng.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;directions&lt;/a&gt; on replacing the chainring. Note that you may need some tools you don't have (but for the big ring, you might be able to get away without removing the crank) to remove the crank (namely a crank puller; in a pinch you could use a mallet but I wouldn't recommend it).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Park Tool also has some nice directions on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-installation-and-removal-square-spindle-type&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;removing and reinstalling the crank&lt;/a&gt;, which you'll need to do in this case since its the middle ring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, wearing out a chainring in 3 years is pretty quick for most people who ride a hybrid - chainrings typically last more than 20000 miles in my experience, even with cheap ones. I also wouldn't bother replacing it until it was causing problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-06-22T23:22:43.277" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T23:22:43.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23179" CreationDate="2014-06-22T23:14:23.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Handlebars are (almost) all 22mm = 7/8 inch where the brake and gear selectors go. Any shifter, brake lever or combination part will be designed for 22mm. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1195/different-kinds-of-handlebars/1208&quot;&gt;Drop bars&lt;/a&gt; are fatter but the shifters for those are not plastic, so I very much doubt you have those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size where they bolt on to the stem varies, but if you're not replacing the handlebar that doesn't matter (so don't worry when you see &quot;35mm handlebars&quot; advertised, that's the size of the bulge in the middle where they attach to the rest of the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's more important is the number of rear cogs you have. If your current shifter is 7 speed, you need a 7 speed replacement. Ditto for 8,9,10 or 11 speed. Also, the brand of the shifters matters, you'll need Shimano compatible or SRAM compatible for it to work properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As DWGKNZ says in comments, replacing this part yourself is a bit of work and you will probably want at least a new gear cable (the wire inner part). Getting it adjusted properly is tricky but there are lots of tutorials on the net like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howtofixbikes.ca/2006/07/adjusting-your-derailleur.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this written one&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNnX-ZFtcDE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. Note that they focus on the derailleur end because that's where you do the adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T23:37:58.513" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-23T01:08:35.467" Score="4" ViewCount="883" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be a good build for a 80% city / 20% trail bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a Cinelli Mash CXSS frame, I will be mainly riding in the city but wanted to also take it to the trails every couple of months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also was thinking of building this up as fixed gear (with a front Canti break), so would welcome points on that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First post so take it easy i am new to building bikes but have owned a few roadies before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12710" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T03:20:07.413" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T17:57:28.587" Title="Building a city/trail bike with a CX frame, what should I consider?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-06-23T17:07:44.137" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23182" CreationDate="2014-06-23T02:43:01.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two CX.  One is single speed (not fixed) and one multi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fixie?  That is a no on the trail as you lose ground cleareance.  With roots, rocks, and drop offs you need to stay on top of the bike.  I have single speed mountain bike that I would hate as as fixie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a light racing style frame with carbon fork.  Decide if you want to go for weight all the way.  You could run an aluminum drive train and race tires like a Cyclocross Speed and have a solid cyclocross bike that does road.  Or go with more durability and steel drive train and heavier non-racing tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single speed CX works but the hard part there is gearing it.  If you gear it for the top end you don't have enough low end for a steep accent.  It is easier gearing a single speed mountain as it does not have the top end.  Top end from street is taller than top end trail.   Up front use like 36 - 42 chainring.  Fairly easy to swap out the rear and the common sizes there are 16, 18, 20.  Pick a chainring size that lets you best go from road to trail on the freewheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get CX not road wheelset. Don't cheap the wheelset. &#xA;On tires you can find some that go both ways nicely like a Continental Travel Contact. &#xA;Change the pressure from road to trail.&#xA;They make racers ride in the mud but if this is your city/trail bike then just don't ride it in the mud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two wheelsets would be convenient not just for tires but to gear them them differently. &#xA;But I would put my money in a one nicer wheelset and a White DOS freewheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That frame is set up for cantilever so that decides the brakes.  I like disc but you don't find many CX set up for disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless (as in actually clip like SPD) over a downhill or flat pedal. &#xA;The reason there is little more torque with the push and pull. &#xA;It can save you from stalling out on an accent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run the bike in the picture below on road and trail.  It has 35mm pilot city tires but I ran it on cyclocoss tires for a few years until I got tired of replacing them.  I change the pressure by 20 psi as I move from street to trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lxJlS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-24T17:57:28.587" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T17:57:28.587" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23187" CreationDate="2014-06-23T03:30:13.733" Score="3" ViewCount="1926" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &quot;to see&quot; bicycle light shifts out of position.  While I need to fix it (fork bridge mounted dynamo), how do I determine when it is correctly aligned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular how are &quot;to see&quot; lights correctly aligned so they don't blind on-coming traffic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is primarily about how to adjust beam position for courtesy and safety, rather than the mechanics of mounting any particular light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;related question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23186/how-to-correctly-align-be-seen-lights&quot;&gt;How to correctly align &amp;quot;be seen&amp;quot; lights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T10:40:18.943" Title="How to correctly align &quot;to see&quot; bicycle lights?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23188" CreationDate="2014-06-23T03:31:21.387" Score="4" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &quot;be seen&quot; bicycle light is bar mounted and has to be reattached every time I jump on the bicycle, due to theft risk.  How do I determine when it is correctly aligned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular how are &quot;be seen&quot; lights correctly aligned so they don't blind on-coming traffic, but so that they're best visible from a distance for on-coming traffic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is primarily about how to adjust beam position for courtesy and safety, rather than the mechanics of mounting any particular light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;related question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23185/how-to-correctly-align-to-see-bicycle-lights&quot;&gt;How to correctly align &amp;quot;to see&amp;quot; bicycle lights?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T05:17:50.403" Title="How to correctly align &quot;be seen&quot; lights" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23185" CreationDate="2014-06-23T04:20:35.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alignment is anything from trivial to impossible. Good lights have a cut-off beam pattern that is more rectangular than circular. That way you can point the light at the road in front of you and not have the central peak that's pointing up into the eyes of people coming towards you. Even expensive lights often don't do this, so you might be out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hassle with dyno lights is that you have to be moving to see the beam. I find that getting it roughly right in the workshop than nudging it while I'm riding works best. Having a nylock nut on the vertical adjustment bolt means I can set it to be &quot;just tight enough&quot; and it won't shift while I play with it later. Then I move the light a little while I'm riding - just reach down and push/pull the light a little until it's pointed the right way. If you don't have a locking nut you'll have to stop the bike at that point and tighten the nut fully to lock the light in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually aligning the beam is a matter of deciding how close to you you want the beam to hit the road and aiming it accordingly. Too close and you have a small, very bright spot right in front of you that actally makes it harder to see than not having the light at all. Too far and you're putting most of your light into other people's eyes. With a circular beam you're going to have light going up, there's no way around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preference is to aim the light such that the top of the beam is just below horizontal. Or with my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&amp;amp;m-hl.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;B&amp;amp;M Eyc&lt;/a&gt; that has a nice rectangular beam and sits just over a 406 wheel, actually horizontal. What I do is wait until I'm riding either towards a reflective sign or white wall, or next to a wall. Then I work out where the top of the beam is and push it down/pull it up until it's right. That way I'm getting the light on the road out in front of me without blinding anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's specific to the type of light and how it's mounted. The only general advice is &quot;make sure it has a proper mount and is installed correctly&quot;. Of course, for may lights the answer is &quot;it did not come with a proper mount&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your fork bridge mounted dyno light the mounts are often cheap steel and if you're lucky there will be a fold or two to strengthen it in places. Those usually end up not working very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the light slips around on the mounting bolt that's usually easy to fix. Get a locking nut and if necessary a longer bolt so you can fit it. The nut you want is deeper than a normal nut and has a plastic insert to make it less likely to come undone. They're cheap, so most bike shops will buy a box of 100-200 for 5c-20c each (more for stainless steel ones) and charge you 20c-50c for one. Your call as to whether $10 for a box is worth it. If you are right on the end of the bolt don't fart round with removing washers, just buy a longer bolt. Most cities have an industrial fastener shop, find it or use an online one (but $5 shipping on $1 of bolts... ow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AK5hq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fork crown mounts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the two leftmost brackets in this picture use the curve of the head tube bulge to stabilise the bracket. The other two rely entirely on the bolt being really tight. If you're buying a bracket, try for something like the first two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bracket is bending you need another one. Your LBS or local bike fix crew might have a box of light mounting bits you can go through, and that's generally the easy way. This is where having access to a vice and power drill is helpful, or it's going to be cheaper to get the bike shop to do the work for you. $20 in labour cost is easier than buying a cheap vice and not having any further use for it afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you have a few tools: Find something that your light will attach to easily and is more or less right to attach to your bike. Or go to a metal sales merchant and see if you can buy offcuts (most sell them by weight), and buy a 10cm piece of angle iron (aluminium &quot;iron&quot;, ideally) that you can cut to shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notch the angle iron so you can bend it forward, but don't completely cut off the angled part - you want that there so the light can't be bent too far forward. This is where the cheap pressed brackets fail and you don't want that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it fits the bike and light bend the bottom of the flat so the corners are angled in to fit onto that bulge. It's a little tweak but it makes a surprising amount of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T04:47:23.200" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T04:47:23.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23186" CreationDate="2014-06-23T04:44:28.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With &quot;be seen&quot; lights good ones have a very wide beam pattern so they can be seen from all angles, which makes precise orientation less relevant. If you look at Nathan's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelightdatabase.com/&quot;&gt;bike light database&lt;/a&gt; most of those lights are about 180° horizontal beam spread and 90° or more vertically. Again, the better ones have a more even beam spread so there's really no &quot;hot axis&quot; that gets more light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I mount them for convenience. I look for somewhere I can attach them where they won't get bumped and point more or less along the axis of the bike, and more or less horizontally. Clipping them into the back pocket of my jeans rather than my belt, for example :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a poorly made &quot;be seen&quot; light that has a real beam and poor spread, the only real solution is to buy a better one. If you're using an old &quot;see by&quot; LED light in flash mode for this, I suggest setting it up as a &quot;see by&quot; light (per answers to your other question), and using it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's particularly bright, the polite thing to do is turn it off or use a lower brightness setting when you're on the bike path. On roads the oncoming traffic should be some way out of your path so blinding shouldn't be an issue. If it is (really narrow roads, for example), I point mine down when I see oncoming traffic. Or turn them off. I have dyno lights that are always on, so turning the blinkie off doesn't break the law or make me invisible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my &quot;see sense&quot; lights that are designed to mount to a vertical tube and are annoyingly bright, I mount the front one to my head tube right under the stem so that I am shaded by the stem. That also helps a little with the upward part of the beam, but the real solution is to turn them down at night. It seems a bit odd, but a &quot;daylight visible&quot; flashing light is scary bright at night. So I run them on the lowest power setting at night (maybe ~30 lumens rather than the ~200 lumen peak). I can still see it lighting up reflective signs at 100m, so it's visible enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T04:44:28.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2014-06-23T04:46:59.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/86919-aluminum-vs.-carbon-bikes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.livestrong.com/article/86919-aluminum-vs.-carbon-bikes/&lt;/a&gt; (I can't testify to the accuracy of this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Aluminum frames possess the shortest fatigue life of any material used&#xA;  to manufacture bicycle frames. The typical aluminum frame possesses a&#xA;  life expectancy of five to 10 years. Conversely, carbon possesses the&#xA;  longest fatigue life. Most manufacturers provide a lifetime warranty&#xA;  on carbon frames. Some manufacturers offer a lifetime warranty on&#xA;  their aluminum frames, but most offer five to 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12712" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T04:46:59.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23182" CreationDate="2014-06-23T07:02:28.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't really a full answer, and I'm deliberately steering clear of groupsets, but there are a couple of things that are maybe worth considering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 80% tarmac/asphalt and 20% trail, maybe you could consider two sets of wheels, if you can afford to do so? (Actually, all you really need is two sets of tyres, but it is far quicker to swap a wheel than a tyre.) It just strikes me that this approach would allow you to run the bike pretty much optimally on both surfaces. But certainly you will find the groupset you decide upon should be suitable for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to think twice about brakes, in particular whether you go for rim brakes or disc brakes. Each has pros and cons and they're covered in other questions on this site (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3855/what-is-the-practical-advantage-of-disk-brakes-over-rim-brakes&quot;&gt;for example&lt;/a&gt;, note it is quite a contentious topic). But your choice here will probably restrict the groupsets available to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards running the bike as fixed or single speed, possibly this might help you, possibly not (depends how far along the process you are). But I came across a site a while back called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velosolo.co.uk/faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Velosolo&lt;/a&gt;. It is a shopping site (and has the various parts required for a conversion), but my main reason for pointing you towards it is because the guy who runs it has also put some decent FAQ articles on the ins and outs of conversions. It might be worth a quick read - in particular the dropouts on your frame will probably determine how easy/hard/cheap/expensive it would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T10:37:44.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23185" CreationDate="2014-06-23T11:02:05.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you need a good strong light, with a reasonable beam width/height.  Then it should be aligned so that the beam is pointed immediately forward and a bit down, with  the center of the beam striking the ground maybe 15 feet in front of the bike.  With proper spread this will illuminate an area of the road from 25-30 feet in front to about 5 feet in front, and about 5 feet wide.  Adjust from there based on local conditions/personal preferences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When adjusted this way there should be no significant problem with &quot;blinding&quot; oncoming traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T11:02:05.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-23T11:43:20.023" Score="0" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm the lucky owner of a  Fuji SST 1.0 from 2010 (mounted with a Shimano press-fit bottom bracket). I would like to exchange the front chainset from a FSA K-force 53/39 to a SRAM RED 50/34. Can you help me to what bottom bracket I need to purchase and get fitted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12714" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T18:31:51.683" Title="Exchange FSA K-Force Light chainset with a SRAM RED" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23185" CreationDate="2014-06-23T13:16:59.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether you intend to use the light you own or are considering to buy a new one. As Mσᶎ pointed out, symmetric beams are practically impossible to adjust sensibly because in order to not blind oncoming traffic you need to point them too near your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car lights have highly non-symmetric beams to address this problem and some countries like Germany also require cyclists to equip lights with well-shaped beams. If you search the Internet for StVZO-compliant (Straßenverkehrs-Zulassungs-Ordnung) bicycle lights you will find lots of models to choose from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;StVZO-compliant lights cast a beam that has a flat top, so they are very easy to adjust: I get immediately behind a parked car, as I would be when stopped at a traffic light, and tilt the light so that the top of the beam falls just below the car's wing mirrors. If the beam doesn't hit the mirror, it won't hit any other mirror that is farther away and, of course, it won't hit the eyes of any driver, since they are positioned higher than the mirrors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12716" LastEditorUserId="12716" LastEditDate="2014-06-24T10:40:18.943" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T10:40:18.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23182" CreationDate="2014-06-23T14:39:18.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, Fixed gear off roading is possible if more difficult than needed. This site has lots of useful info. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://63xc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://63xc.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran my Surly Cross Check as a fixed gear scorcher for season or two and it's way to make easy trails hard. It's definitely not for everybody and the downhills can be brutal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd encourage you to go for disk brakes on the front if at all possible and you definitely want a front brake. I also found it very useful to have a back brake as well. Getting any kind of &quot;modulation&quot; in braking with a fixed gear was beyond my skill set, skidding on dirt is a really great way to crash.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, an eccentric rear hub will allow you to use a fixed gear wheel with just about any dropouts. White Industries ENO hub has worked well for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T15:35:21.953" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T15:35:21.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23294" CreationDate="2014-06-23T15:11:26.347" Score="0" ViewCount="1472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Giant TCX SLR 2 (2014) with a FSA MegaEXO BB and FSA Omega crankset (46/36). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a Ultegra 6750 crankset (50/34), can I run it on my existing BB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what BB do I need? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read online that it should work as is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastEditorUserId="10723" LastEditDate="2014-06-28T04:45:53.287" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T20:51:45.887" Title="MegaEXO Omega BB and Hollowtech II crank compatibility?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23200" CreationDate="2014-06-23T16:24:35.823" Score="6" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it better to buy a bike that comes with puncture resistant tires, or get a cheaper bike that comes with worse tires and then get them replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11331" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T04:51:39.810" Title="Is it worth it to buy a bike that comes with puncture resistant tires, or add them later?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23198" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-23T16:30:01.487" Score="3" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear wheel on my Surly Cross Check is right at the edge of the rear dropout but the chain is tensioned correctly. If I move the wheel back into the dropout so it is comfortably in the middle, I presume that the chain will no longer be tensioned correctly or will it? Does the rear derailleur compensate for wheel shift fore and aft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not will I need to get a longer chain? I asked the bike shop but they didn't seem keen on moving the wheel back into the dropout. They just said the rear dropout screws were correctly configured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ibTMS.png&quot; alt=&quot;cross check dropouts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12719" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-24T03:47:20.510" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T03:47:20.510" Title="Rear wheel at edge of dropouts on a Surly Cross Check" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23198" CreationDate="2014-06-23T17:00:30.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have a multi-speed setup, the derailleur handles all responsibility of maintaining chain tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cross-check frame has the semi-horizontal dropouts so it can be utilized for single speed applications, and it's only for those applications that you control chain tension by wheel spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the wheel goes in the dropouts for a multi-speed setup is not super important, so as long as it is completely &quot;in&quot; them, and there is plenty of surface on the dropouts your axel nuts/QR cams ares secured to, you should be fine. Having the wheel nearer the end does make it easier to pull the wheel out without getting too much grease on your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T17:00:30.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23197" CreationDate="2014-06-23T17:06:03.777" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't decide your bike based on the stock tires. Tires are consumable components, and will not last like the rest of the components will. Tires are cheap, changing the frame or drivetrain is expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just ride the stock tires until they are worn out, then replace them with the puncture resistant tires, if by that point they are still important to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many shops will swap out various components as part of a purchase anyway, so you can have your cake and eat it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T17:06:03.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-23T17:34:08.460" Score="1" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H5xlY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been given this bike and am trying to find out more about it - I can't find anything on the bike that tells me it's make etc - any ideas would be very welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12720" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T17:36:51.390" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T20:10:04.507" Title="Can you help identify this bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23192" CreationDate="2014-06-23T17:59:41.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the GXP Red cranks (more normal) you want a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-pressfit-gxp-bb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pressfit GXP Bottom Bracket&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the BB30 Red cranks you want a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/truvativ/technologies/pressfit-30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pressfit 30 BB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt; not all press fit systems are created equal. I would have your LBS check compatibility, and supply and fit a suitable part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRAM make both of these in the whole range of series from Red down to non-series Truvativ-branded versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T17:59:41.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-23T19:33:01.563" Score="1" ViewCount="2075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of cycling shoes that accept a two-bolt cleat, but require a spacer between cleat and sole to be compatible with Shimano SPD pedals. My pedal and cleat package did not come with spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone make spacers of varying heights for such a situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5787" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-24T00:28:30.820" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T00:28:30.820" Title="Does anyone make a spacer for SPD cleats?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;spd&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-23T19:55:08.563" Score="2" ViewCount="1373" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR&#xA;I want to make a high capacity trailer from bamboo to ride around at a desert festival.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bamboo structure (probably 1.5&quot; or 2&quot; major strength lengths, 1&quot; for crosses)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hitch using bamboo &amp;amp; bamboo joints to get it up to a rack or seat post, with one of the varied DIY hitches seen around the internet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simple wheels with high rated weight capacity, or dual wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simple steel length with clamps on each side of the wheel to mount, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;similar clamps to mount to the bamboo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weight capacity will be 300+ pounds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Estimated costs (at the moment) $200-$250 just for the trailer structure &amp;amp; seat location, and budgeting for mistakes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm seriously considering a heavy duty bike trailer for this year at Burning Man (those who don't know, giant arts/community festival in the middle of the desert, so very flat). I'm planning on having a large capacity 36v battery pack as I'm going to get an electric front-wheel conversion kit, and I want plenty of power (plus for lighting &amp;amp; such). So if I go for 20 Ah pack, that's something like 40+ pounds. Then on the trailer a small-ish disco ball suspended off the back with lights for at night. And another 12v battery for all the lights. And a small lockable storage space for stuff. And then a seat for someone on it. So, all told, plan on 300 pound capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching around the net (both here and elsewhere), I think I've settled on bamboo framing &amp;amp; structure for it's strength, lightweight, and easy to work with (no welding!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two things I'm uncertain of right now, are the hitch &amp;amp; wheels &amp;amp; wheel mounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hitch&lt;/strong&gt;, I can do something fairly simple to attach it to a rear rack or even seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheels and wheel mount&lt;/strong&gt; is more complicated. I've seen quite a few people have success with 20&quot; BMX style wheels but I'm trying to keep costs somewhat down. Or maybe something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200381571_200381571&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plastic 20&quot; wheels&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200486376_200486376&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;24&quot; MTB wheels&lt;/a&gt; from Northern tool. As an alternative, use a much lower rated wheel in 16 or 20 inch, but go dually, so 2 wheels on each side. For mounting, seems like I could even just get a length of steel from Home Depot in the right OD, cut it to length, and put some clamp thingies onto it to mount the wheel (which includes bearings) and drill a hole in the bamboo and do the same to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very flat terrain with semi-formed dirt roads, not going to be going very fast (maybe 10mph) does what I've said above seem doable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12721" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T22:55:21.513" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T23:33:36.033" Title="Easy build, high weight capacity trailer for Burning Man" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-06-24T14:24:32.660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23201" CreationDate="2014-06-23T20:10:04.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for an answer that should be a comment (need to get my bicycles.SE rep up before it'll let me do it right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see (open the asker's image to view larger)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Marzocchi Bomber fork, construction and decals look like a late-90s Bomber Z1 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=198026&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=198026&lt;/a&gt;, though slightly different from the pictured &quot;bam&quot; model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An FSA headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ROOX seatpost (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roox.at/COMPONENTS/COMPONENTS/Seatpost_overview.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.roox.at/COMPONENTS/COMPONENTS/Seatpost_overview.htm&lt;/a&gt;, though I didn't try to find the exact model from as little as visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Cane Creek rear shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap department store bike was my first guess, but the identified parts seem a bit better than that for as little as I pay attention to who is selling their brand to junk bike makers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12724" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T20:10:04.507" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23203" CreationDate="2014-06-23T22:19:39.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Kibbee said, making your own out of a milk jug or soda/beer can is probably the easiest way to go.  The spacer doesn't need to have the exact same footprint as the cleat to work, so you don't need to be too concerned with the sizing/shape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T22:19:39.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-23T22:24:09.290" Score="7" ViewCount="4931" Body="&lt;p&gt;My front inner tube popped yesterday so I changed it, but when I put the wheel back on the bike I couldn't seem to tighten it properly without it being too tight, or not tight enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was too tight, the disc brake would be rubbing and I couldn't pedal without extreme resistance. If it was too loose, I run the risk of it falling off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know theres a way to put the bike back together obviously cause I've been riding it for a while now. Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12726" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-12-19T09:56:34.647" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T09:56:34.647" Title="Quick release wheel is either too tight or not tight enough" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23207" CreationDate="2014-06-23T22:35:50.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a problem of a too tight skewer. The skewer should be tight to hold the wheel in place as riding on a loose skewer is dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brake does not rub with the skewer loosened then it also won't with the skewer tightened when the wheel was properly seated. You must have tightened the skewer with the wheel not properly seated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fix it, just loosen the skewer, put even weight on the bike and hold the weight while tightening the skewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-06-24T16:00:43.597" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T16:00:43.597" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23204" CreationDate="2014-06-23T22:36:53.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not too hard to build a trailer that will handle 300lbs / 150kg, but moving the trailer and staying on the bike in front of it are very different problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, moving the weight. The playa is not smooth, so you're going to need more force than you might expect just to make it move. But since you'll be going slowly you can simply gear down to deal with that. It will help if you have bigger wheels and fatter tyres, so the 24&quot; wheels would IMO be a better option. Those are not as strong when dealing with side loads, but again you're not going fast so the big problem will be people jumping on the trailer rather than fast cornering. Try to load the trailer so it's not inviting to climb onto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, staying on the bike. The simple part is balancing at low speed. If your bike is geared low enough that should be doable, I'd put the seat down so you can put feet on the ground easily and stand to pedal if you need to. The more difficult part is when one wheel hits a bump or pothole and the 150kg trailer decides to throw you sideways. The trailer might also be able to lift your rear wheel off the ground, at which point you're going to fall over. The other obvious route to the ground is someone stepping onto the back of trailer. You can reduce that problem by putting a bit of weight on the back of the bike - maybe put your battery pack there. That will also help with traction, especially if you're standing up to pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can mount to one axle of the bike you'll be more stable. The higher up the attachment point on the bike the better leverage the trailer has to push you sideways. Ideally the hitch would be below the axle, and with a 26&quot; wheel mountain bike doing the towing and 24&quot; wheels on the trailer that will also help make the trailer level. Even dropping it an inch or two will help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hitch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get access to a welder/someone to weld for you, that spring-and-chain hitch is very robust and unlikely to break or fail. It's pretty easy to make and if you prep it there's only 4 or 5 small welds to complete it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for a week of BM you can probably get away with just about anything. Even just cutting up a truck inner tube to make giant rubber bands and using them to tie a flexible lashing on the rear rack would probably work (test it well &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you go, because if it doesn't work on site you're going to be grumpy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you underestimate the cheap wheels found on kids bikes. For a couple of weeks with 100kg on them, most 20&quot; wheels will do fine. And kids bikes are often thrown away, so you can probably get them very cheaply. You will pay more for decent tyres (or a supply of puncture repair kits and tubes, if you decide to spend your time fixing punctures instead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the main issue you're going to have is the dropout area. You need to distribute the axle load along the bamboo somehow, so it might be worth using MTB front forks on the wheels (running horizontally) as the attachment points for your lashing. If you use &quot;recycled&quot; kids bikes just cut the forks off at the fork crown, or even leave the steerer tube in place. That way you have a fairly long section to lash to (albeit all the load is at one end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Design&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest a basic design like &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/megatrailer/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;my megatrailer&lt;/a&gt;, scaled to fit your requirements. You could lash that up with bamboo, the main addition will be cross bracing of the bed so it doesn't turn into a non-rectangular parallelogram (wire or rope would also work). I've seen this rough design made of lashed bamboo before and it seemed to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRKuR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;megatrailer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chariot design would also work - make the towing arm 2-4 metres long to reduce the forces at the bike end of it. That would simplify everything except getting it to the event. The more I think about that idea the more I like it. You can just use 2-3 lengths of thick bamboo as the towing arm, strap the front end to your bike rack and even just run one length down each side of the trailer. If you did that you'd want 4-6m lengths of bamboo, but it would look quite cool IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T23:33:36.033" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T23:33:36.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23207" CreationDate="2014-06-23T23:07:39.047" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is more likely to be wheel alignment than anything being too tight. The tops of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/23046/7044&quot;&gt;dropout&lt;/a&gt; (with the bike upright) should be sitting on the axle, but it's easy to get a little gap there if you're not careful. When that happens the wheel doesn't sit quite stright in the fork and it will rub on the disk rotor if you have disks. Plus if you're finding that you have to wind the quick release in and out it may be riding up on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/5584/7044&quot;&gt;wheel retention tabs (lawyer lips)&lt;/a&gt;. Front dropouts are shown in the lawyer lips link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system I use is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put the front wheel in loosely, or leave it in if it's in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stand over the bike and reach down to the quick release, holding the bike upright with your body (belly on the handlebars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;release the quick release&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wiggle the fork or wheel a little to make sure the wheel is properly seated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do up the quick release&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that because the bike is pushing down on the wheel it will seat properly in the dropouts. Trying to do that while the bike is upside down or you're trying to hold it upright often means one side of the axle is not properly in the dropout, so the wheel sits at an angle when you do up the quick release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T03:41:09.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23197" CreationDate="2014-06-24T03:55:43.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get puncture resistant inner tubes, liners, or just squeeze a bunch of Slime into the current inners. Or not worry about it, keep your tires properly inflated, and be a happy camper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T03:55:43.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23197" CreationDate="2014-06-24T04:51:39.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either way from my experience whether you spend the money up front or afterward puncture resistant tubes and tires are worth the expense.  I have purchased mine aftermarket, and they added so many miles, and trips it's unreal.  Let's face it changing tires and fixing flats is a hassle and I was having one once a week or around every 100 miles, until I changed to thicker tires.  So in my case I say tires may not be the most expensive component but they effect the overall biking experience greatly.  Good luck buying!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12730" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T04:51:39.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-24T05:18:19.230" Score="0" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to determine if your tires need to be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12731" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T12:48:08.720" Title="How do you check your road bike tires for wear?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-06-24T14:25:04.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23214" CreationDate="2014-06-24T05:29:46.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not getting regular punctures due to the thin-ness of the tire or the fabric of the tire is showing/damaged, you can keep the tires on (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#replacement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;). Unlike a car tire, a tubular tire just requires the tire portion to prevent the tube from getting cut up. And road tires should be smooth since you don't need tread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T05:29:46.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-24T07:11:16.617" Score="4" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering upgrading from Avid BB5 to BB7 mechanical disk brakes on my fat-bike and upgrading to Avid Speed Dial 7 levers. While I'm at it I can easily move up a size or two from the existing 160mm rotors. The mounts are 51mm IS front and rear and there are no clearance issues apparent with the front fork -- it looks to be parallel well past the point that even 203mm rotors would sweep past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avid's come with adapters and am I correct in assuming that the adapters included for a 180mm rotor would correctly space the calipers out from the 51mm IS mounts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going from 160mm to 180mm would effectively increase the radius 10mm; going from 160 to 203mm would increase radius about 20mm. Is there any issue with rigidity or or alignment going with much larger adapters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12732" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T13:27:16.480" Title="Upgrading mechanical disk brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23221" CreationDate="2014-06-24T07:48:29.413" Score="2" ViewCount="1639" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road bikes have a forward bent seating posture, mountain bikes have a straight seating posture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering which of the above seating postures (of road bikes or mountain bike) is better for back bone? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether any of these seating postures could cause back pain, slipped disks etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12733" LastEditorUserId="12733" LastEditDate="2014-06-24T12:12:20.943" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T16:17:01.520" Title="Bicycle Seating Posture Ergonomics" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23214" CreationDate="2014-06-24T12:48:08.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number of the Continental models actually have two small divets in them that you can use to gauge the wear level of the tire. If present, I use those. Otherwise I look for excessive numbers of deep cuts in the tire, or some of the tire fabric showing through through the rubber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T12:48:08.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23216" CreationDate="2014-06-24T13:27:16.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the comment mentioned, if there is an issue it will be with the fork.  The rotors are designed to withstand the additional braking loads.  However, for what it's worth, I've always felt that larger rotors were easier to bend in a crash.  There's more area to strike on a rock or something, and you get better leverage on the rotor.  But there are plenty of people who think that's just superstition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you might find that you don't need the larger rotors, though.  I switched from BB5s to BB7s (and then to SLX hydros), and felt that the BB7s stopped harder than the BB5s, even at the same rotor size.  And I was using crappy levers, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T13:27:16.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23217" CreationDate="2014-06-24T16:38:59.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of comments to your question is becoming quite large, so I thought I'd roll my comments up into an answer (of sorts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You ask whether the seat postures could cause back pains, and whilst I have no specialist knowledge in this area, I'd have to say from a purely empirical viewpoint that the answer must be &quot;no&quot;. A lot of people ride a lot of miles on a lot of days, without suffering long-term pain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's not a blanket &quot;no&quot;, there are caveats. For example, if you have a badly-fitting bike, this can quickly cause pain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus don't forget, under the large umbrellas of &quot;road bikes&quot; or &quot;mountain bikes&quot;, there are many different frame geometries which offer many levels of comfort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example with road bikes, at one extreme there are bikes designed to be ridden by professional racers, whose geometry will sacrifice comfort for efficiency/performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the other extreme there are, for example, touring bikes which are designed with a more relaxed geometry, so as to be comfortable for riding all day, over several days, and carrying a load. There are a gozillion bikes in between, and the story is repeated for mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: two different road bikes (same manufacturer). The first (left/top?) photo shows a bike from their &quot;road&quot; [i.e. racing] range, the other from their &quot;touring&quot; range. You can see the different frame shapes involved. (The two bikes look pretty much to be on the same scale, certainly they both run 700 tyres.) But if you look at both the vertical and horizontal distances between the saddle and handlebar, hopefully you can envisage that the rider of the left bike would have their back more horizontal (efficient but uncomfortable), the rider of the right bike will have their back at maybe 45° (give or take), a far more comfortable position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CW7Du.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dawes Giro 500 (racing)&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3aqj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dawes Galaxy (touring)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-28T16:17:01.520" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T16:17:01.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-24T16:45:30.637" Score="-5" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m a college student and cyclist at USC. I’ve had three bikes stolen while at USC and it really annoyed me so now I’m doing something about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve created a lock that specifically secures the wheels of a bike. It works by replacing the hex nuts or quick release skewers holding a bike in place. It’s designed so none of the common theft tools (i.e. wrenches, vice grips, bolt cutters) can get through it or get any leverage on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nut can only be tightened / loosened with the specific wrench that comes in each package. There are multiple variations of these nut:wrench combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d love to get some feedback on the product, whether or not you’d use it, and any advice you have (from business/marketing ideas to product improvements).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12654" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T00:05:16.957" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T00:05:16.957" Title="Asking for Feedback about my Bike Lock Invention" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ClosedDate="2014-06-25T14:48:31.607" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7703" CreationDate="2014-06-24T17:32:41.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ridden my Electra Townie for multiple rides between 30-50 miles over the last month and have determined that distance does not work for me on that bike.  A comfort bike is less than ideal for longer distances due to the seat, the posture, the inability to ride faster than 12-13 mph and a frame that does nothing to absorb the road rattle.  For me, once I crossed the 20 mile distance it was time to look at other bikes.  Longer distances are certainly not impossible (I have sure done them) but the &quot;comfort&quot; tends to wane at mile 20 or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12741" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T17:32:41.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23222" CreationDate="2014-06-24T17:46:40.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With any invention need to determine if it is new. If it is new then patent it prior to sharing the idea.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is not new. &#xA;Search Amazon for &quot;locking skewers&quot; or &quot;security skewers&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A product like this is going to reduce theft of components but does not stop theft of the bike.  If the bike is not properly secured they will just steal the whole bike.  The devices are not going to stop the thief from removing the devices relatively easily in the privacy of a garage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two bikes not properly secured and one has device locks and the other not.  If the bike with device locks is worth twice as much then that will most likely be the first bike stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the value in these device but they don't replace securing the frame to a fixed object.  And securing wheels and seat with a lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-24T18:05:05.340" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T18:05:05.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-24T22:33:54.767" Score="1" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 2014 Norco storm 9.2 has a problem - whenever I am in a higher gear and standing up it tends to click and try to jump gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I am sitting down it does not do this. It only happens when I stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any suggestions to help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12743" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T01:25:23.307" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T15:04:03.120" Title="Bike trying to jumps gears when I stand" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8740" CreationDate="2014-06-24T22:34:37.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's yet another reason to replace tyres, not covered above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the bead snaps and pierces the sidewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An unusual failure mode for a Schwalbe Marathon Plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastActivityDate="2014-06-24T22:34:37.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23225" CreationDate="2014-06-25T02:00:35.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume you mean the rear derailleur jumps to a higher (harder to pedal) gear when you stand up to pedal hard, right?   This is a common rear derailleur problem, happens only  under high chain tensions, and more likely with inexpensive or worn rear derailleurs.  It shouldn't do that, as it can be dangerous to the rider.  So you need to get it fixed.    Your rear derailleur either needs an adjustment, or a replacement spring,  or you need to replace it with a new or better one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12745" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T02:00:35.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-25T04:52:27.733" Score="15" ViewCount="5850" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://nationalbikeregistry.com&quot;&gt;National Bike Registry&lt;/a&gt; is an nationwide registry of bikes with identifying information (serial numbers, make/model, owner information) in the US that is intended to help identify stolen or impounded bikes. There are of course other bike registries such as the recent &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeindex.org&quot;&gt;Bike Index&lt;/a&gt;, many municipal registries, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeregistry.com&quot;&gt;International Bike Registry&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these registries effective, both at reducing bike theft (i.e. if you put a sticker on your bike thieves are less likely to steal it) or in tracking down stolen bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11331" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T12:24:12.723" Title="Does the National Bike Registry work?" Tags="&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23229" CreationDate="2014-06-25T05:04:58.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its hard to say for a few reasons, but I'd be inclined to tend towards its not very effective:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) People have to be aware of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It doesn't physically provide any security. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) The people who use this are likely to use it on nicer bikes so it could act as an attracting mark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, for the most part, the stickers could easily be removed or the bikes could be stripped for parts or more likely just used as is in a city (where delivery boys or whatever need cheap bikes frequently and don't really care where they're from, or whatever) - the bike would have to go through a bike shop which saw the sticker, and on top of that, did query the number in order to make use of it. Or, recovering an impounded bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T05:04:58.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23217" CreationDate="2014-06-25T07:20:22.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;(this is more of a supplemental answer to Pete's one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is somewhat different if you already have back pain vs if you don't. Simply, if you already have pain it's much easier to make it worse, but if you don't an upright bike is fairly unlikely to cause it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main factor is likely to be how far forward you lean while stilling on the bike, with a racing bike putting you further forward. One reason cheap mountain bikes are so popular is that the more upright seating position is more comfortable. But the main area these bikes cause pain is your upper back and shoulders, from the extra weight resting on that area. But I'm not a medical professional, this is just opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've left a few options off the list, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dutch Bikes&lt;/strong&gt; are commonly even more upright and comfortable than mountain bikes. They're not fast, but they're comfortable and they're designed to be ridden in everyday clothing, and have luggage space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WnQrt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;dutch bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recumbents&lt;/strong&gt; For people with back pain sometimes that's not enough. There's a whole other type of bikes called recumbents, because they take the &quot;wouldn't you rather have an armchair&quot; approach to bike seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cmFvD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;recumbent bike&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sa7RW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;recumbent trike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in both cases there's a big base area of the seat that you sit on, plus a substantial backrest. You're also leaning back rather than forward. There are a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; range of shapes and styles of recumbents, but they're more expensive than most upright bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of people riding different bike styles and I've heard at least one person say that the few different recumbents they tried all made their back pain worse. But I've heard from more people who had much reduced back pain or simply couldn't ride an upright any more because of a back injury. So if you do have pain, and find an upright bike does not help with it, it might be worth trying a recumbent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T07:20:22.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23158" CreationDate="2014-06-25T09:10:07.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Front pannier rack for suspension fork&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Load on wheel or on frame:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front rack mounted on the suspension fork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front rack mounted on the frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if there is a preference between the two.&#xA;Anyway, the latest recommendation for loaded touring is to have wide balloon tyres, research shows they give better comfort vs. suspension forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vertical position:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mid and high rider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low rider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Cannondale Fifty-Fifty, it has a front suspension fork (Fatty Headschock).&#xA;After a lot of investigation, I decided to get an &lt;strong&gt;Old Man Mountain Pioneer&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;It needed a bit of fiddling at the beginning, but afterwards it mounted well.&#xA;Ortlieb Front Roller Plus panniers are hanging on the lower bars of the rack. This was the main reason to get the Pioneer, so the center of gravity can be a bit lower.&#xA;The rack is rock solid, works excellent.&#xA;I have been on several long tours with it, works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difficulty I have is that there are three bottle cages+bottles mounted on my frame. The bottle on the downside of the downtube is kicked by the panniers when the wheel flips over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a usually &quot;wheel centered&quot; pannier mounting this wouldn't happen, or with a safety latch found on the headtube of Idworx or Tout Terrain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D6CB7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cannondale HeadShock Fatty suspension forks with Old Man Mountain Pioneer front rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension Fork specific racks:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asista.de/produkte/detailseite/artikel/megarack-front-loader/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Delta Megarack Front Loader&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freeload.co.nz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Freeload Touring Front Rack (bought up by Thule)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldmanmountain.com/Pages/instructions/UltimateLowRiderInst.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Old Man Mountain Ultimate Lowrider&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In case you don't have mid-fork eyelets, and it is needed:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tubus.com/product.php?xn=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tubus Montageset LM-1, Art. 72100&lt;/a&gt; (for diameters 20-32mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tubus.com/product.php?xn=59&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tubus Montageset LM-BF, Art. 72200&lt;/a&gt; (for diameters 25-40mm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubus says it's not good for suspension forks, because you need to be careful not to overtighten these (you can damage the fork).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other brands and makes to consider, depending on your forks mounting possibilities:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nitto M12&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nitto M18&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Racktime Top-it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sella-Berolinum mini-porteur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surly Front Rack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VO Porteur Front-Rack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Basil Memories Front Gepäckträger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copenhagen Parts Bike Porter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HEBIE Low Rider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubus Nova&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubus Smarti&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubus Tara&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A video and article about the Freeload Touring Front rack:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RemJmjWCMpo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepacking.net/reviews/freeload-rack/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Giant Expedition AT has suspension forks, and factory supplied racks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/grnqx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Giant Expedition AT&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubus Montagesets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZGliL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tubus LM-1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rdmXg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tubus LM-BF&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="12749" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T05:35:11.963" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T05:35:11.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23154" CreationDate="2014-06-25T09:46:32.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Old Man Mountain Pioneer mounted on a Cannondale Fifty-Fifty (Headshock Fatty suspension forks). I use Ortlieb Front Roller Plus panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do pack the panniers with light items only (Therm-a-rest mattresses, sleeping bag, clothes). I don't have a handlebar-bag, I use the left side front pannier for that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I chose the OMM Pioneer design for two reasons (vs. OMM Ultimate Lowrider):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also do a lot of commuting with this bike. I wanted clearance on the side of the wheels for getting on-off pavements, harder terrains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The top surface is helpful to mount large-and-light items (after shopping, sleeping bag, paper boxes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After several long tours, I can say they work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dviqz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;V-brake version mounting&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pifVP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;No-V-brake version mounting (disc, Magura, etc.)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T09:46:32.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-25T10:58:56.293" Score="1" ViewCount="1004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace my rear cassette and reduce the tooth count between the sprockets in order to make my gear changes less dramatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a 11/26 9 speed SRAM cassette, and a stock shimano tiagra derailleur (whatever the 2011 trek 1.5 comes with). My chainring is a compact 50/34 110mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm cruising along I often find that the jump between gears on the cassette is pretty substantial and it feels as though I could do with a missing gear to get the best efficiency with a cadence above 90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have my eye on a 12/23 cassette: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-hg50-9-speed-cassette/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-hg50-9-speed-cassette/&lt;/a&gt; (Shimano HG50). This is a fairly cheap cassette so it's not the end of the world if it doesn't work out, but what I'd like to know is if I can just replace the existing cassette with this one without having to buy a new chain/derailleur etc. Or, if I do need to buy some new stuff - what would that be? New jockey wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have all the tools to replace the cassette so that's not a problem. My concern is all the talk of 'hyperglide chains' etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T12:41:52.707" Title="Upgrading cassette - what do I need to be aware of?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16373" CreationDate="2014-06-25T11:21:01.113" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any bike can be used for touring long distances. The main question is, what type of touring do you want to do? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do self-supported touring (you carry the luggage yourself on the bike vs. a car transports the stuff for the whole group), you need a bike that can &lt;strong&gt;take luggage&lt;/strong&gt;. The other main feature I look for in a touring bike is &lt;strong&gt;comfort&lt;/strong&gt;, because I spend a lot of time on the bike, 3-5 hours a day, day after day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most mountainbikes, citybikes, trekking bikes, comfort bikes can be retrofitted with racks/carriers to hold panniers. Usually the rear-carrier is easy to do, the front carrier might be tricky, but there are front carriers even for suspension forks (see Old Man Mountain front racks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CHAINSTAY&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;For me, the most important feature of a specifically long-distance touring bike is the frame geometry. And in frame geometry, for me in a touring bike, the most important is the chainstay. A long-distance touring bike has a minimum of &lt;strong&gt;45 cm&lt;/strong&gt; chainstay (vs. 40-41 cm), but touring specific manufactures do longer ones (Rose bikes: 46 cm, IDworx: 47.1 cm). This is to give space for rear panniers, and usually the same for all frame sizes. If your feet hit the rear panniers, you cannot go. I had this problem, and it really is a problem, and difficult to fix. After checking some bikes, you will be able to tell visually how long the chainstay is (big distance between rear wheels and seatpost). To be very precise, you can measure the actual chainstay (the horizontal distance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxrV8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chainstay length&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WHEELBASE&lt;/strong&gt; Another helpful feature is a long wheelbase, which is size dependent, but usually &lt;strong&gt;105 cm&lt;/strong&gt; and up. This is helpful for the slower, in line motion of touring (vs. fast turning in a group of bikes in a competition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest, you can upgrade, or live with. My wife and I, we tour a lot. She has a 7 speed (hub gear) city bike with a rubbish rear roller brake (not to confuse with a disk brake). I have a 8 speed (hub gear) city bike-mountain bike hybrid. We bought some panniers, and there we go. On steep hills, we get off and push the bikes. I did 3000 km in the last year, and we've just been in Slovenia on a few hundred KM tour, last year we've been at the Dolomiti in Italy. We complained a lot about the 7 and 8 gears, but it didn't stop us from touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some myths that I think you should NOT consider:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Steel frame is easy to fix when broken&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;. These days all frames are of good quality. If your frame is broken, you will order anyway a new frame, because a welded-repaired steel frame is no use at all. I have one bike with a steel frame, after an accident the frame got bent, and the bike doesn't really keep a straight line. It's not possible to get it back to the original condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Easy of repair&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; in general. If you tour in Europe, for a few days, you will always find a repair shop, and if you need special parts, you can always order by mail in 1-2 days. Bar end shifters are easy to repair, and this was a must 20-30 years ago, today is less of a concern. If your wheel is destroyed, or your tyre falls apart, you will order anyway a quality wheel/tyre, and not fiddle with a third world low quality tyre. If you look around the web, people do around the World tours with disc brakes, carbon drive, and other fancy stuff, and if they break down in the middle of Africa, they get the parts by mail order in 1-2 days, and continue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kona Sutra, Surely LHT, Trek 520 are the best&lt;/strong&gt; Many websites are written in English, and are maintained by US, UK tourers, and list brands from these countries. However, bike touring in The Netherlands, and in Germany is a much bigger thing then in any other country. They have lots of brands, even premium ones, only for touring. See for example IDWorx, Koga in the Netherlands, or Rose Bikes, Tout Terrain in Germany. They have a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; list of different touring bikes. In Amsterdam there is a bike shop only for touring bikes (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vakantiefietser.nl&quot;&gt;De Vakantiefietser&lt;/a&gt;). Only touring bikes!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some very special bike is needed.&lt;/strong&gt; When I started, I talked and asked a lot about the bikes. The more I go on touring, the less I care about the bike, and focus on the trip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By my experience, the most helpful thing about the bike on a bike tour are puncture proof tyres, because it saves a lot of time for relatively smaller investment. Schwalbe Marathon tyres are like that. Any bike you buy for touring, I recommend to change the tyres to Schwalbe Marathon (or any other Schwalbe that is puncture proof), this will save you a lot of time when on a trip.&#xA;I suggest to buy the widest tyres your bike can take, for added comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In summary:&lt;/strong&gt; my recommendation is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to check for a 45 cm (or more) chainstay to fit panniers easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Schwalbe Marathon tyres to avoid punctures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rest, you can change, upgrade, make the bike comfortable for &lt;em&gt;yourself&lt;/em&gt; within the your budget.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to read more on here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Touring bike manufactures, grouped by country: &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2013/10/a-complete-list-of-touring-bicycle-manufacturers-with-prices/&quot;&gt;Cycling About&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to look for in a touring bike frame: &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2013/10/understanding-bicycle-frame-geometry/&quot;&gt;Cycling About&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AbcZq.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Schwalbe Marathon puncture proof tyre&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="12749" LastEditDate="2014-06-30T14:16:08.957" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T14:16:08.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-25T11:36:36.170" Score="3" ViewCount="3248" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've not cycled in a while but my step dad was using my bike and he has a habbit of breaking stuff. I have since decided to start cycling to work again and I replaced various parts due to rust etc (Chain, Cassette, brake pads, cables) and seeing as they didn't work properly in the first place I decided to take some time to tune the gears. Now I think I understand them but the issue I have is: On the cassette at the back the gears will happily and smoothly shift from 7 to 1 under load or not under load. But going from 1-7 it will ignore me when I switch to 2 but when I then go 2-3 it will skip over 2 and onto 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is: Why does it work perfectly from 7-1 under any load but then under any load it will not go 1-2 but every other gear works? It's literally that 1 down to 2 that won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please take note that there is no grinding noise or anything when i flick from 1-2 it quite literally just ignores me and makes 100% no attempt to switch but it happily jumps over 2 to 3 when I flick down to 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12750" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T20:14:42.093" Title="Bike gears not shifting how they should" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14142" CreationDate="2014-06-25T12:17:42.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first priority is reliability, the second is comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spend 3-5 hours a day in the saddle, day after day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light components are not a priority, I get reliable ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheels: Ryde/Rigida Andra are very strong ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon puncture proof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle: Brooks are good, or SQ Lab - comfort is very important, try before you go&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebars: Ergon Grips, or butterfly bars with gel tapes (I use the latter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gel tapes add more comfort/money vs. suspension forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this article:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2013/09/build-a-round-the-world-touring-bike-on-a-budget/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2013/09/build-a-round-the-world-touring-bike-on-a-budget/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="12749" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T09:02:21.697" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T09:02:21.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23234" CreationDate="2014-06-25T12:41:52.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware, Shimano and SRAM cassettes are interchangable, at least in the 8 and 9 speed range. Your derailleur should be fine.  As far as the chain goes, depending on how worn it is, you might want to replace it with a new one. Mixing a worn chain with a new cassette is a sure way to wear out the cassette prematurely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this is a good upgrade, as long as you don't do too many hills, as you'll be losing a few of the easier gears.  I recently did a similar switch, from 11-32 to 12-23 with an 8 speed groupset and noticed a huge difference. You aren't making as drastic of a change, so I'm not sure if you'll notice it as much as I did, but having a single step between adjacent gears makes finding the right gear quite a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T12:41:52.707" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-25T13:15:19.373" Score="6" ViewCount="5394" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my mother in law's bicycle from when she was a child. While cleaning out a lean-to on the back forty I found this bike inside.  I was hoping to give her a bike that is identical to hers that is restored for a birthday or Christmas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that I need to learn more about this specific bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Mother-In-Law was born in 1952 in Eastern, NC.  Given that I would assume that the bicycle purchased at a local hardware store, from the sears catalog, or was handed down from a sibling. Her three older sisters were born between 1932-1942 - thus if this was a bike of theirs it would probably be from 1937-1948... but I find this scenario less likely as they are half siblings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that together, I would have to assume that the bike was built in the 1955-1960 time frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for taking time to look through these photos and any guidance is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GOBDo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side profile&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jRLnO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front by basket&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WJcvi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sprocket and pedals&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V6mkx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front wheel and brace for basket&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XcJgo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Saddle pan and springs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12751" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T02:03:59.107" Title="I need help to identify this bike" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23225" CreationDate="2014-06-25T14:31:01.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging by the information provided: The frame is probably bending when you stand causing the chain to come out of alignment with the deraileurs and cassete/cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a full suspension that can do that too when you pedal hard out of the seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you notice if it occurs in higher or lower gears and was the chain very tight? (will help narrow down the problem)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8970" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T14:31:01.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23225" CreationDate="2014-06-25T15:04:03.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest thing to check, before replacing any other parts, is whether the chain has stretched as a stretched chain could cause this problem.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Measure 12 links; each link should be precisely 1 inch. If the 12 links are 2-3mm longer (0.75 - 1%) than 12 inches the chain needs replaced.  When replacing a chain you will most likely need to replace the cassette (rear gears) as well as they will be worn to the same degree as the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7648" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T15:04:03.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17119" CreationDate="2014-06-25T16:39:55.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that the stress of changing worn-out press-fit cups does more damage to a head tube than the drop-in integrated variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing a set of cups on a frame is a high-stress, creaking, cracking job requiring dedicated tools with lots of mechanical advantage. If you don't use the right tools you need to use a hammering action, which is even worse for the frame!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Integrated headsets have never ruined a frame in all the years I've been working on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12753" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T22:03:04.410" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T22:03:04.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23236" CreationDate="2014-06-25T16:46:10.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is harder to go to a bigger (more teeth) gear as the chain is going up hill. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyperglide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hyperglide&lt;/a&gt; helps the up hill.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The smallest gear is often loose.  Not even sure you can put it on backwards.  But if you could and if you did then the hyperglide would be backwards.  Maybe worth checking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T16:46:10.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14142" CreationDate="2014-06-25T17:17:37.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are planning for a loaded tour, lightweight equipment is the opposite of what you want— the bike is a relatively small proportion of the total weight of bike + gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong wheels are one of the most important components, since failures are difficult to repair and have potential to end the trip— overbuilt wheels with a high spoke count for redundancy are what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different handlebars are a good modification— trekking bars are a common setup used on mountain bikes used for touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub gears other than the Rohloff generally aren't used for loaded touring, since hauling a bike with 50 pounds of gear up a mountain pass requires very low gears, and high gears are fun for bombing down the pass on the other side. The Rohloff also seems to have the best reputation for reliability for a touring bike. But they are very expensive, and work best with frames with dropouts specifically designed for the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T17:17:37.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23239" CreationDate="2014-06-25T17:53:13.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not give up on that bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stuff that is definitely bad you can most likely replace: wheels, fork, headset, handle bars, crank, seat post and seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stuff that would be hard to find is OK. Fenders and chain guard are fine.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me it is worth seeing how bad that frame is. At the crank it looks pretty good. &#xA;Pull the rear wheel and check the dropout - if bad give up. &#xA;Pull the seat and fork and see if it is rusted from the inside. &#xA;If you have rust from the inside then give up. &#xA;If inside looks OK then hit the worst rust with 600 sand paper. &#xA;If you can sand to bare metal by hand in a few minutes then you only have surface rust. &#xA;Yes you may have more than just surface rust here but it would only take an hour to find out.&#xA;If you could restore THAT bike that would be cool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on a comment to your own answer you trying a restore.  When (if) it comes paint time consider a car paint shop where they have a real paint booth and professional paint.  They will tell you if you got all the rust.  If you leave any rust it will eventually bubble through the paint. It is hard to paint like pro (with a booth).  Be flexible on the color and live with a color that is going on a car.  A custom color is expensive as they have to buy the paint and mix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T19:39:42.520" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T19:39:42.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-25T20:31:23.353" Score="1" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please explain how air suspension lockout works? I mean physically what happens inside the shock?&#xA; There are also multiple setting in lockout, how are they implemted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11309" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T20:31:23.353" Title="How air suspension lockout works" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-06-25T22:04:12.440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23274" CreationDate="2014-06-25T20:52:37.500" Score="3" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a new Trek 7.2 for commuting and getting around town. It's a great bike but I want to add some stuff to it like a rack. I am fairly handy and have more or less a full toolkit in my apartment - do I need any special tools to do bike maintenance and also for adding things like a rack? Or will normal screwdrivers &amp;amp; wrenches do the trick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(added from a comment) At the moment, I hope to mainly fix flats (but hopefully won't get too many of them) and set my bike up for commuting (adding a rack, lights, potentially bike computer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11331" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T00:00:59.523" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T19:58:35.510" Title="What kinds of tools do I need to do bike maintenance, e.g. adding a rack?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23247" CreationDate="2014-06-25T21:03:08.713" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike in general I suspect is covered in other questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the rack: Look at the rack.  About the only thing it would have special is hex screws.  Hex screws are also common on your bike.  Typically the instructions will list tools needed.  Tool needed vary by rack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is tools from &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com//uploads/downloads/Surly_Front_Rack_Instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; rack installation manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;4mm hex wrench&#xA;8mm open end wrench&#xA;Hacksaw&#xA;File or bench grinder&#xA;Grease&#xA;Electrical tape or friction tape&#xA;Tape measure, ruler, or caliper&#xA;Marker or grease pencil (optional)&#xA;Level (optional)&#xA;Linseed oil, Framesaver, Boeshield, &#xA; or engine fogging oil (optional)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly, this is a strange and complex rack. &#xA;That is the point - the tools needed vary according to the rack that you're installing and the frame that you're installing it to. &#xA;Consult the installation instructions. &#xA;If you want to install the rack yourself and it calls for tools you don't have then consider another rack. &#xA;From the picture the Trek 7.2 does have two mount points for a front rack.  In that configuration it is as pretty easy install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-27T19:58:35.510" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T19:58:35.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23253" CreationDate="2014-06-25T21:28:18.047" Score="1" ViewCount="11259" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding solo air forks everything is clear. Once we bumped both chambers pressure is equal.&#xA; But why for dual air forks air pressure doesn't try to get equal in both chambers? What's the point of second chamber if it has different pressure and doesn't try to equal it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11309" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T12:22:19.980" Title="Dual air forks negative positive chamber pressure equality" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23247" CreationDate="2014-06-25T23:39:01.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you plan to do regular bike maintenace, then I would not put off buying a bike specific tool kit. I have a garage with tools capabale of pulling down a car engine (unfortunately the user of my tools is less capable of building one up again :( ), yet I still have a bike specfic toolkit. Although I have a double up in some tools, the bike tool kit is small, portable and has 90% of what I need for any bike job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap tool kits that work well enough, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Home-Mechanic-Bike-Bicycle-Cycling-Tool-Kit-set-44pcs-/310573141867?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item484f9a0f6b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Such as this&lt;/a&gt; for a careful DIY user are readily available. Although some of the tools are a bit nasty, I belive they are much better than not having the right tool as long as you work to there limitations- if you can afford it get better quality. If your bike is older or has overtightened parts there comes a time when the LBS with workshop quality tools and years of experiance needs to be used, but most jobs can be done yourself paying for the kit in no time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example - changing a rear cluster - needs two specfic tools  and a 5 minute job with them, trip to the LBS without those tools. Chain repair - 5 miutes with a chain breaker, trip to the LBS without one. Spoke replacement on the cluster side of rear wheel - Spoke tool, and cluster tools.. or (you guessed it)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T23:39:01.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23236" CreationDate="2014-06-26T00:26:37.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the derailleur cable may be too loose.  Try increasing the tension in the cable a tad and see if that helps.  On many bikes you can increase the cable tension both at the derailleur and at the shifter using the thumbscrew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't help, either lube or replace the cable, and lube all the derailleur pivots.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12755" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T00:26:37.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-26T00:44:19.967" Score="5" ViewCount="24250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into purchasing a bike computer, primarily to track distance and speed. Is it worth it to go up a notch and get a computer that also tracks cadence? How accurate are bike computers at doing this? I'm not interested in wireless computers - I hear too much about interference, and they are much more expensive (thus targets for thieves) -- so is it worth it to hook up more cables to the bike in order to get cadence info?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11331" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T11:46:37.373" Title="Is it worth it to get a bike computer with cadence?" Tags="&lt;cadence&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23249" CreationDate="2014-06-26T01:45:18.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The negative air chamber provides resistance to the positive air chamber. It controls the speed air spring returns to its initial shape. The chambers are isolated so the air is unable to equalise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The positive chamber provides resistance against compression, essentially how hard is the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third part of the suspension action is dampening, the negative air chamber controls the forks return and the damper stops if from oscillating and provides a smooth ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rockshox explain dual air below quite well in suspension terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UY4XX.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T01:45:18.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23252" CreationDate="2014-06-26T01:58:27.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're correct that there is extra cost and hassle involved in collecting cadence. The question you need to answer for yourself is: does the benefit outweigh the cost. Since you don't seem to see any benefits, the answer is obviously no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should buy things when they fill a need, rather than buying things because they are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as accuracy goes, they're all accurate enough as makes no difference. Modern electronics can easily generate clocks accurate to parts per million and your variation in pedalling speed is much greater than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T01:58:27.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23252" CreationDate="2014-06-26T02:14:18.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the unit.  Cadence is good to have, if you want to do any sort of training, but cadence is often poorly implemented.  In fact, I'm not aware of ANY good computers with cadence at present.  The old Cateye Micro was excellent, but it's not been available for 15 years or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a unit with cadence you want to be sure it has a SEPARATE cadence pickup, not a combined pickup for both cadence and rear wheel speed.  (The current Cateyes use a combined pickup that is impossible to keep aligned.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to &quot;extra hassle&quot;, the cadence pickup, being near the crank and the foot, is slightly more apt to be knocked out of alignment than the speed pickup, but it's really not that much of a &quot;hassle&quot; (so long as it's not combined with the speed pickup).  The main reason for not having a cadence unit is that there aren't many good ones (if any at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I was making use of cadence on my bike trip last week, to help me keep my RPMs up when I got tired.  It was a definite asset in that case.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T02:14:18.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23186" CreationDate="2014-06-26T05:17:50.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be seen lights can be rougly divided into two categories: focused and diffuse beams. Focused lights are much like to-see lights, they're just not actually bright enough to see with. They focus the light into a rougly circular shape that points mostly towards the front (or back) of the bike. Diffuse beams spread light much more evenly, and while they might have a hot spot, they're somewhat bright from every direction. I'm mostly going to address the latter, because focused be-seen lights should be treated effectively like see-with lights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before we get to positioning, we need to think about flash pattern. Generally speaking, even your be-seen lights don't need to flash at night. Check out the answers on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2294/safety-data-which-is-safer-head-tail-lights-which-blink-or-emit-a-steady-beam/21431#21431&quot;&gt;which is safer, lights that blink or emit a steady beam&lt;/a&gt; for the justification behind this. Essentially, if your be-seen lights are bright enough, they'll be noticeable at night without flashing. A strobing light can be very disorienting at night, and could ultimately reduce your overall safety. More manufacturers are starting to offer lights that pulse instead of strobing, which is an acceptable compromise at night &amp;ndash; the changing brightness is more attention grabbing without being distracting like a strobe. If you have a steady-burn see-with light already, a pulsing be-seen light can be a useful addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the day, I would suggest using flashing lights. As the paper cited in the aforementioned flashing vs. steady post points out, the human eye perceives a flashing light as being brighter than a steady light with the same output. During the day your lights have a lot more to compete with because of the direct sunlight, so a flashing light helps you to be better seen. At the same time, it's not too distracting to drivers or other cyclists again because there's lots of other light. If you get into flashing lights that are above 500ish lumens, the flashing could still be distracting, but we're talking about be-seen lights here so that shouldn't be an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, positioning. On the front, if you have a focused beam, defer to the advice for see-with lights. If it's a diffuse beam and you follow the flashing advice above, it shouldn't matter a whole lot where you aim it because the light  output should be fairly uniform. I would suggest mounting the light such that the illuminated surface is perpendicular to the ground. This will ensure that your light is seen from the greatest distance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rear, focused beams are sadly all too common. In order to be seen from a good distance, you should angle your light almost perfectly perpendicular to the ground, or tilted just a couple degrees down. What's most important is that you ensure the light isn't pointing too far up or too far down, else it won't actually be visible from a distance. Unless your light is both absurdly bright and very focused, you're unlikely to cause anybody serious discomfort (again, if following the flashing advice above). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a diffuse beam on the back, figure out which axis most of the light is spread across. Good diffuse lights will be designed such that the beam is very wide in one direction and narrow in another. Point your light at a wall to figure out which way is which, then mount it so that the wide axis and the spread of the beam is parallel to the ground, and center it so that an even amount of light comes out each side. This will ensure optimal off-axis and distance visibility. Again, following the flashing advice, you shouldn't have any significant issues with blinding people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T05:17:50.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-26T05:33:06.753" Score="4" ViewCount="9342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Rockrider 5.1 cycle with a Shimano MFTZ21 freewheel. In order to remove the freewheel, I purchased the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decathlon.in/cycling/spareparts/maintenance-tools/tool-kit-14-tools/p-244440.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Btwin tool kit&lt;/a&gt;. But the removal tool provided in the kit does not fit on my freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of the removal tool in the kit :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3aSs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a photo of my freewheel :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qsbg0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can see that the diameter of the tool is a little too big to go in :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vg6QW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I am considering buying the &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.bumsonthesaddle.com/products/park-tool-freewheel-remover-shimano-sachs-aris-sun-race&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Parktool FR-1 freewheel removal tool&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;But will it fit on my freewheel?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12756" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T05:46:06.890" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T03:34:16.573" Title="freewheel removal tool for Shimano MF TZ21" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-26T06:58:57.367" Score="0" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a new biker and am going to be commuting to work on a hybrid. There are many cool accessories that help you carry gear, bike at night, track your rides, make adjustments and quick repairs like fixing flats, and more. It's very cool that there's so much that one can do to 'pimp their ride' so to speak but it can be overwhelming and it's hard to know where to start, especially for those (like me!) who are working on a budget and who needs to pick and choose because they can't afford to buy a ton of gear. My question is, where to start? In your view, besides the obviously necessary safety items like a bike lock and helmet, what are some of the must-have accessories that would be most important or most useful for a new or returning biker, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I know that there's already a question on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/573/whats-your-most-useful-cycle-accessory&quot;&gt;the most useful accessory category&lt;/a&gt;. I want to focus on the most important accessories for a &lt;em&gt;new biker&lt;/em&gt;, especially city bikers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11331" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T18:42:55.630" Title="What are the most important accessories for a new biker to get?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2014-06-26T19:26:07.180" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23258" CreationDate="2014-06-26T07:27:56.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important things imho are tools to fix flats (patches, glue, tire levers, any tools needed to get the wheels off) and keep the bike alive (chain oil, some rags (old T-shirts will do), something to clean the bike with)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T07:27:56.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23258" CreationDate="2014-06-26T07:57:13.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's pretty situational - there are so many things that you might do with said bike. Some basic tools for maintaining the bike would be helpful.  Some suggestions, in no particular order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pump for keeping tire pressure up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare inner tubes/puncture repair kit.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maybe a multitool?  You can do seat/handlebar adjustments with them, and they often have tire levers.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that's three things, but really you cant have one without the others - puncture repair kits without a pump would still leave you rather immobile!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T07:57:13.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23258" CreationDate="2014-06-26T07:58:23.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;helmet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lock &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;puncture repair kit or spare tube and a mini pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multi-tool &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lights &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first-aid kit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="846" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T07:58:23.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23252" CreationDate="2014-06-26T09:08:52.573" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also think the answer is &quot;it depends&quot;, but for slightly different reasons to Daniel. I think it depends on why you're cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are training, then measuring cadence can definitely be useful. In fact, there are training programmes that are based around cadence. (You're basically looking for a high value, and a steady value.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the information has more-or-less interest value only, although you could still argue that the &quot;steady&quot; side of the value could be used just to improve your technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards accuracy, cadence is measured using a magnet, just like speed and distance. So there's no reason why cadence should be any less accurate than speed and distance. It depends on the hardware of course but I'd expect computers these days to be pretty accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards your reservations regarding wireless technology, again its going to depend on hardware but wireless is the way all the high-end computers have gone, so there is certainly not any inherent problem with this technology. It is possible to measure things like speed, cadence, power and heart rate, even I believe gearing info, all simultaneously, all wirelessly and without interference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T09:08:52.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23257" CreationDate="2014-06-26T09:43:51.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the Park FR-1 (or something compatible) is your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T09:43:51.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-26T13:16:02.010" Score="1" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently ride a single-speed converted bike (vertical drop-outs). I like the ride but feel that when I'm going for high speed on the road, I'm pedaling too much. Currently running a 18T cog on the rear and 42T on the crank, with a 2.333' ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to increase the ratio and have a cassette on the rear hub, with a 16T cog. I'm wondering what's the best way of switching the chain to the 16T and keeping the chain tensioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be as simple as removing one link from the chain or would the tension not be there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the 16T is one level down in the cassette from the 18T would the chain line be OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here's a picture of the gearing setup to make it clearer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CUKy1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;gear setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12758" LastEditorUserId="12758" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T14:56:43.813" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T16:59:30.933" Title="Adjusting gear ratio" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23265" CreationDate="2014-06-26T13:45:22.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can simply add a cheap chain tensioner and be done with it. The chain line will most likely not be ideal anyway if you left the entire cassette on there, so that shouldn't be a concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T13:45:22.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23239" CreationDate="2014-06-26T13:54:27.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you for all of your help and encouragement.  When I arrived home from work I flipped the bike over, got some of the serial numbers.  From what I can tell the bike seems to be a 1956/1957 Schwinn Spitfire Ladies - Model F71c. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a 1956 Schwinn Spitfire - Model F71c.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52HJa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Schwinn Spitfire Ladies - Model F71c&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have come to this conclusion on two parts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - the Serial Number &#xA;The M0D502 serial renders this on the Schwinn Cruisers Website.&#xA;Built: 08/13 to 08/23 of 1954 or... Built: 09/06 to 09/07 of 1956.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - The only example I can find of a Top Tube connected to the down tube with a Welded tube (I am unsure of the term used to identify this) was on a '57 Spitfire. (See below)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Awf8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is the 57 Spitfire&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mother in law was given the bike at 6 or 7 years of age.... so I would assume that the bike was built in the Fall of 56, sent to a local hardware/farm storm where it sat for a year in inventory and picked up that next fall/winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Would an expert agree on the likelihood of this bike being a 1956/57 Schwinn Spitfire?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again for all of your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/odtw0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Serials read M0D502 - 46772 - 13 5 124&quot;&gt;&#xA;The Serial reads M0D502 (small top left)&#xA;The Serial reads 46772 (medium right)&#xA;The large Serial reads 13 5 124&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gu3GS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolted Kickstand - Not Welded&quot;&gt;&#xA;Bolted kickstand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnISh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Komet Super?&quot;&gt;&#xA;Does anyone know about this Komet Super denotation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thanks again for all of your assistance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12751" LastEditorUserId="12751" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T15:09:01.283" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T15:09:01.283" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23265" CreationDate="2014-06-26T14:52:50.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have multi-speed cassette, no derailleur, and no chain tensioner.  On the 18T you have good chain tension.  Even in this set up as the chain stretches you will get slack on the 18T.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving to the 16T is not full chain link.  A horizontal drop out is typically a little longer then one chain link.  If you get all the way back and have slack then you take out link and you will be up in the horizontal drop out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume chain line would be OK moving one gear as you probably still have a multi-speed chain on it.  But you are going to have slack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to ride single-speed then I think you need to go to true single-speed set up with a tensioner.  Another option is to put a derailleur on that bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single-speed conversion is not that difficult.  Nashbar has a single-speed conversion kit with spacers, three cogs, and tensioner with shipping is like $30. I have seen the cogs in sizes 14T, 15T, and 17T and sizes 16T, 18T, and 20T.  Yes you can pay more for higher quality but I have one and it works. Most single speed cogs are 3/32 and I have seen 1/8 (White).  Your front chainring looks OK so I would not replace it.  When you do replace the front chainring then go single-speed.  At then you could go 3/32 or 1/8.  If 1/8 then need to go 1/8 chain.  1/8 is more metal and longer life.  3/32 or 1/8 there are single speed specific chains - they are cheap just get one when you order you kit.  I run 3/32 cogs with 1/8 chain and chainring - I don't think they have to match.  You should replace your chain when you replace the chainring.  Not a given your bike would even take an eccentric hub and they are more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T20:44:53.257" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T20:44:53.257" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23265" CreationDate="2014-06-26T18:30:38.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you poke around on the web enough, you'll find a &quot;magical&quot; gear ratio calculator somewhere. You input the length from BB to dropout and it spits out the &#xA;front/back combos that will work w/o a tensioner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eehouse.org/fixin/fixmeup.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://eehouse.org/fixin/fixmeup.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be much simpler to change the front chainring, if you can find a magical&#xA;combo that matches what you want for a gear. There are also &quot;half links&quot; available that allow you to tweak the chain by less than a full 1 inch link pair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, a single speed bike means your almost always in the &quot;wrong&quot; gear. Any change you make will only change when you're in the wrong gear, not the amount of time you spend in the wrong gear. If you're not happy being in the wrong gear, just buy a derailler and a shifter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-06-27T15:41:31.907" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T15:41:31.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23258" CreationDate="2014-06-26T18:42:55.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your climate, rain gear.  It can get expensive real fast, so I've learned to check thrift stores/garage sales for rain jackets and pants.  If the items are barely used, it's well worth the savings.  I also will occasionally spray the rain gear with Kiwi's Camp-Dry after washing/drying them if water is starting to penetrate the material.  Try to find a jacket with a mesh liner &lt;em&gt;everywhere&lt;/em&gt; inside the jacket.  The liner helps protect the waterproof layer from being rubbed off from repeated use.  I learned this lesson after my first ($130) rain jacket started leaking within a year of proper use and care (and spraying with Camp-Dry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6796" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T18:42:55.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23247" CreationDate="2014-06-26T21:23:08.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mainstay tools are really wrenches and allen keys, certainly these will be all you need for something trivial like fitting a rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the more you get into things, there are a myriad of different tools around, often which can be used for one and only one task. For example if you want to get the cranks off you need a crank puller, of which there are a couple of different types. To change a cassette, you need the right lockring (possibly a half-a-dozen or more of these). A special tool to break a chain (you replace chains relatively regularly, compared to other maintenance). Another too to swap out a bottom bracket, a rig to check how true your wheel is.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that you're not (certainly as an individual wanting to maintain your bike) going to want all of these tools at once - they can be collected over time. And if looked after they pretty much last forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether you'd count these as tools (I would) but I'd say it is definitely worth buying, up front, tyre levers and a pump, so you're able to change a tyre and repair a puncture. These, unfortunately, are the most common tasks you'll need to perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T21:23:08.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-26T21:44:52.003" Score="3" ViewCount="1640" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were to create a power profile based on those seen in training and racing with a power meter by Hunter Allen and Andrew Coggan. What would it look like a sprinter or an all rounder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help answer the question I have found an article which lists some of the power put out in certain zones by Ryan Trebon during a cyclo cross nationals race. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rider weight: 80kgs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;estimated ftp is: 415 watts or 5.19 w/kg (rounded up by .25, not sure if that's the right thing to do?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Max power is: 1431 watts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article goes on to state that he produces 'between 400w and 800w, or between about 95 and 190% of his FTP. He accelerated more than 120 times at or near 850w for 20 to 30 seconds (10.6w/kg). 120 times!'. To top it all off 'He goes on to produce 11 more maximal sprints at 1200+w throughout the race, ending with a final maximal kick within the final 500m of 1190w'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link to the article: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cxmagazine.com/training-cyclocross-power-ryan-trebon-wattage-file&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cxmagazine.com/training-cyclocross-power-ryan-trebon-wattage-file&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T19:17:30.803" Title="Allen Coggan power profile table for Cyclo cross riders?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23160" CreationDate="2014-06-27T01:34:28.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've basically got three sets of bearings on your bike: hubs, bottom bracket, and headset.  It's pretty easy to check if the grease has been blown out of any of them by listening to them spin or by checking for play in the part.  If anything sound gravelly when you spin it the bearing definitely needs some love.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiggle check is a little more drastic, but also worth trying.  If your dropouts are tight and you can still wiggle the wheel by grabbing the rim, you need to repack your hubs.  If you can wiggle one crank arm and the other wiggles, you need to repack your BB.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play in the headset is probably the biggest risk, because a sloppy headset is one of the few maintenance issues that, left unchecked, can actually ruin a frame.  If there's slop in your headset and you ride the bike, the impact of the steer tube rocking back and forth can ovalize your head tube, and then you're kinda hosed.  So be really careful to check that your headset seems solid.  Turn the bars so the wheel is at 90 degrees to the frame and rock the bike forwards and backwards.  Put your fingers on the interface between the headset and the frame, headset and the fork crown, and headset and spacers, and feel for any play.  If it feels solid, you're good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T01:34:28.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23257" CreationDate="2014-06-27T03:34:16.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;technical difference&lt;/a&gt; between a cassette and a freewheel. A freewheel contains the ratcheting mechanism while a cassette sits on a freehub which contains the ratcheting mechanism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It clearly says in that toolkit's page &quot;shimano cassette removal tool&quot;. The MF-TZ21 is a freewheel. So Park Tool FR-1 is the right tool. They also have excellent instructions on changing your freewheel &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-and-freewheel-removal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T03:34:16.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-27T03:35:03.137" Score="2" ViewCount="2023" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please explain what these three numbers mean on the pedal crank housing?&#xA;I believe this to be the pedal crank housing from a 1956 Spitfire Ladies Bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrAUn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Serial reads M0D502 (small top left) The Serial reads 46772 (medium right) The large Serial reads 13 5 124&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Schwinn Serial reads M0D502 (hard to see but top left)&#xA;The next number reads 46772 (medium right)&#xA;The large number reads 13 5 124&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my concerns is this... The Schwinn serial numbers that date the bike to the fall of 1954 or 1956, but I believe the Serial numbers for 54 and the 56 were located on the Left Rear Dropout - not located on the bottom bracket of the pedal crank housing.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Why would this be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally &lt;strong&gt;what does the 46772 indicate?&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;what does the 13 5 124 indicate?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you so much for all of your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12751" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T00:52:50.000" Title="Serial numbers on bottom bracket housing from a 50s era Schwinn?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23265" CreationDate="2014-06-27T07:19:19.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a site a while ago called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velosolo.co.uk/intro.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velosolo&lt;/a&gt;, the guy who runs it seems to be quite knowledgeable about conversions, and he has a couple of kits on there - you might be able to get away with ripping your cassette off and replacing it with a cog and a bunch of spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the vertical dropouts you'd still need to tension the chain somehow (the obvious way being a tensioner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That approach would certainly get you to a &quot;fixed&quot; state (an would allow you to change cog size on a whim), you might need to look a little more closely if you want to mix a hub in there instead, but it is definitely worth asking them the question - I've contacted this chap before and he's very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have to settle for less-than-perfect chain line, but at the end of the day the chain you're running right now is designed to traverse a cassette, so that's not going to be a showstopper. As regards chains, 1/8&quot; is certainly the convention going back in time, but most fixed cogs &amp;amp; chainrings will also come in 3/32&quot; variants, you should have no problems there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do find something on the web, you'll first need to remove your existing cassette. To do this, you'll need an appropriate lockring nut and either a chain whip or a vice. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/category/freewheel-cassette&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tools&lt;/a&gt; have a selection of nuts that fit just about everything that moves. If the cassette is either Shimano or Sram, you'll need one nut (FR-5, but double-check), if it is Campy you'll need a different one (FR-11, but double-check). In my experience, its a lot, lot easier to stick the cassette into a vice than to use a chain whip. As a tip, a Black and Decker workmate makes a great vice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your other alternative for removal is to take the wheel to your LBS and ask nicely. For someone with the right tools it really is just a 30-second job, you might find if you ask them nicely they'll loosen everything there and then, and not charge you... But if you did this, convention is just to buy something (anything) from them as a token of thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-28T16:59:30.933" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T16:59:30.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23290" CreationDate="2014-06-27T07:55:51.680" Score="4" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to buy a new brand new bike but I'm not experienced at all with bike specs and quality and things to look out for etc. I have previously only had second hand really basic bicycles in my life that have done the job but I've always gone from issue to issue with then and I decided to stop putting money into a bad bike and spend a little extra on a brand new bike. My needs are not that extensive. I need a bike to go about 15km a day, 6 days a week to and from college. I'll be travelling on road surface but I don't really want a racing bike per say. My budget is 300€ but I have no problem (and I kinda wanna) spend right up the budget to get a bike that I know will last. What I really don't want to is to have problems of any kind (with the exception of flat tyres obviously because this is not the manufacturers fault) really in the first year or 2 of buying the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have been looking at so far: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.ie/cycling/bikes/mountain-bikes/carrera-vengeance-mountain-bike-2011-2012-large-20#tab4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.halfords.ie/cycling/bikes/mountain-bikes/carrera-vengeance-mountain-bike-2011-2012-large-20#tab4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike seems to fit my needs but is it good? the reviews would lead me to believe that its no professional show stopper but its not gonna break in the next 2 years or so. It is also being sold from a respectable company (Halfords, not Carrera).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line question: should I buy this? Is it good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12771" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T11:29:29.827" Title="Advice on buying a new bike" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23284" CreationDate="2014-06-27T07:56:05.633" Score="5" ViewCount="3780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy a road bike, and my budget is about 1300$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I'm faced dilemma: &#xA;1) new 2015 (next year) road bike, for example Merida (aluminum frame, shimano 105, carbon fork)&#xA;2) used 2009-2010 road bike, for example Bianchi (carbon all, system fsa, ultegra 6600, mavic rims).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By photos it seems that the old bike is in a very good state (without scratches, etc), new supplies (chain, cassete, brake pads)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if we assume, that the state of bike is good indeed (attentive care, etc), then, is it worth buying 5-year bike? &#xA;Technologies progress nowadays, so difference in 4-5 years is a huge gap, or it's OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12632" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T08:24:44.067" Title="Is it worth buying used bikes of old models?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23283" CreationDate="2014-06-27T08:24:44.067" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In bicycles, the technological advance is not as fast as you might think. This is due to the UCI, which blocks a lot of new technologies or is slow to allow them in races. So I think as long as the older bike is in good shape, there won't be much difference. Maybe it's a nine-speed instead of the modern ten or eleven, but that doesn't really make a difference, especially not if you're not going to ride pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, be careful about carbon frames and parts. They might be damaged from falling over, crashing or similar, without the damage being obvious. Look for (deep) scratches in the paint job, hairline cracks (especially around joints), discoloration or deformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T08:24:44.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23295" CreationDate="2014-06-27T08:28:47.343" Score="1" ViewCount="1025" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am following the SRAM official procedure on a very similar bike to the one reviewed. However, I am stuck at this part: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtVtTd7iQzk&amp;amp;t=1m18s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;unthread the hose from the remote's barb&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just can't. I am holding the hose very firmly, 10mm away from it's end, and turning the remote counter-clockwise. The hose begins to twist and a 1/8 rotation is achieved only due to hose twisting, no rotation is observed at it's end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I use pliers? Put something soft underneath? The product is brand-new, boxed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pBWKn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After trying to unscrew the hose 3, I decided I need to unscrew 2. I used a wrench and it took me some time to realize this is different than in the video. One drop of oil spilled. I tightened it not very much, although probably more than original. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried with 1 turned all the way to either direction, but the hose doesn't come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2014-06-27T20:48:09.433" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T07:30:58.297" Title="Problem during installation of Rockshox Reverb Stealth product" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23287" CreationDate="2014-06-27T09:10:57.357" Score="1" ViewCount="1392" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm stuck in understanding size tables of a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example this size chart:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iVMFx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in my thoughts?&#xA;Effective top tube (ETT) is horizontal value so, it's B1 on the chart.&#xA;BS is the length of line parallel to the frame.&#xA;But then why BS is less then B1? (if B1 is horizontal, than it's cathetus of the triangle, it should be less then hypotenuse)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or ETT is not horizontal line, but the line parallel to the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also, what is A1 on the picture? It looks like the main value (size of those bikes are called by A1 values), but what is the difference with AS value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12632" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2014-06-27T18:34:33.963" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T19:43:54.027" Title="Fitting questions - Effective top tube vs horizontal" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23286" CreationDate="2014-06-27T15:06:48.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the full resolution it is clear. &#xA;BS is center to center (head to seat) along the (sloped) top tube. &#xA;Since the seat tube is slanted that is a shorter distance.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/imgres?imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Ftrade.bianchiusa.com%2Findex.php%2FArchive%2F2010%2Fgeometry%2FC2C-Via-Nirone-Alu-Carbon&amp;amp;tbnid=UuV2kBlLWCRkGM:&amp;amp;docid=TFCgjdMMoquceM&amp;amp;h=2809&amp;amp;w=2360&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geomemtry C2C&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cathetus and hypotenuse apply to a right (90 degree) triangle.  There is not a 90 degree triangle on the BS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsBU9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-27T19:43:54.027" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T19:43:54.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-27T20:44:32.280" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my tyre size is 27 by 1/4. what size of wheel do I need. I just bought a second hand road bike and will need to repair it. But one of my problems is what size my wheels are, 700c or 27 by 1/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12775" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T18:59:16.287" Title="Need help for my wheel size" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23252" CreationDate="2014-06-27T21:15:04.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's only worth going up a notch if it's a feature you'll use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use cadence all the time.  It's the primary information I use on a bike computer while I'm riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My speed?  As fast as it should be for the grade, wind, and my condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My distance?  Not home yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The efficiency of my muscles and mechanical structure through the knees?  That's cadence for me.  I know that between 90 and 100 rpm is my personal sweet spot.  Lower and I'm wasting energy by forcing too much.  Higher and I'm wasting energy by spinning too much.  But that's me, my body, and what I get OCD about when I should be enjoying the ride.  You may be different.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accuracy:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accuracy is just fine.  Awesome in fact.  99% of the time I'm using my Shimano Flight Deck, which does it the &quot;poorly implemented&quot; way, as Dan says (I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This means that it takes my wheel speed and my gear ratio (Flight Deck is shifter integrated), does a little math, and gives me the number that would be my cadence if I were pushing bike forward via turning the pedals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know when I'm coasting, so I know when the number is above reality, and I don't much care since I'm not putting meaningful power in while coasting or coast-pedaling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bonus: I know what cadence I will need to do when I start pedaling, so I can pre-select a gear that'll put me in my sweet spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also using a Garmin now that has a crank sensor so it calculates it the right way.  Still, the biggest number on the screen is always my cadence.  Both screens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wireless:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about interference.  Never experienced it.  Even in road race bunches and group rides.  Never had a problem establishing and keeping wireless connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This in over a decade using Specialized and Shimano bike computers, and now a couple years on a Garmin using ANT+.  Pretty sure the old Polar coded HRM never had trouble either that couldn't be explained away by my chest hair being a bigger source of interference than the wireless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wired computer cables can break.  I may be paranoid there since I've avoided them for longer than I used them (and I did use them for a while).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always remove computers and lights before locking a bike (I am certainly paranoid there), but have never worried about somebody wanting to steal the mounts and sensors.  Just don't park by the jr high.  There's always some jerk there who just wants to break other people's stuff and won't care how cheap it is to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12724" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T21:15:04.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23282" CreationDate="2014-06-27T23:30:05.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes are fine for road commuting too.  The advantages are fatter tires which make the bike more stable and the upright riding posture, which many find to be more comfortable compared to road bikes.  This disadvantage is mountain bikes aren't as efficient.  You'll need to expend more energy to get to the destination compared to a road bike, due to wind resistance (from the upright riding posture) and tire friction (from the wider tires).  You may get there on a slightly slower ride too, so it will take a tad longer.  Still, I think a mountain bike is a good choice based on what you say. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd look for is a good quality aluminum (or cro-moly steel if they still make them) fully rigid frame, and , most important, Shimano's economy components all around.  Skip everything that is unnecessary, like disc brakes, hydraulic brakes, 10 and 11 speed cassettes, etc.  Stay with traditional cantilever or V-brakes (really just another type of cantilever).  The more basic, the better.  You could easily get by with 10 total speeds, in a 2 x 5 configuration, though I doubt you'll find that available, but the few speeds, the more robust the drivetrain will be.  For the frame, the more standard, the better.  Avoid unusual drop out dimensions, etc.   And, most important of all,  the more the component set is one that sells in large volumes, the better.  It will be much easier to obtain parts in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that the most important thing to look for is fit.  Take a test ride on at least 3 or four bikes of various sizes before deciding.  If you think you might want to use the bike for actual mountain biking -- like riding on steep dirt trails -- error on the &quot;too small&quot; side rather than the &quot;too big&quot;.  Otherwise, just choose the size that seems to fit best from the test rides.         &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12777" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-28T11:29:29.827" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T11:29:29.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23265" CreationDate="2014-06-27T23:42:37.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this bike at one time had a derailleur, right? But you only want to ride with one of two rear cogs now?  And whichever you choose, you'd stick with that one for the whole ride?   If so, I'd be inclined to pop an inexpensive derailleur on there to provide the correct chain tension in either cog. Then I'd just use the derailleur limit adjustment screws to shift from one cog to the other as need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12777" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T23:42:37.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23282" CreationDate="2014-06-28T04:33:29.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As cheap mountain bikes go that one seems to be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you don't seem to want to use it for mountain biking. You'd be much better off with a flat bar road bike (not a racing bike), or a roadster. The traditional upright &quot;dutch bike&quot; style bikes are that way for a host of really good reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the upright position is more comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mudguards keep the worst of the muck from the road off you, and stop the front wheel picking up water off the road and spraying you in the face with it. Ditto the &quot;back track&quot; from the rear wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a rack or basket makes it much easier to carry stuff. Even if you just attach a plastic bin to the rear rack and drop your handbag or backpack into it, that beats the sweaty back problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the rack also gives you somewhere to hang panniers if/when you decide you want those.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;even a cheap dutch bike will often come with dynamo lights, saving you that expense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modern flat bar road bikes are a compromise between the roadster and speed. Typically they drop lights, mudguards and a rack in order to spend more money on lighter components. But if you're commuting you're going to want those things anyway, so you'll end up spending your 300€ budget on the bike plus another 50€ or more getting comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Budget for Extras&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest that if you are going to commute on it, at the very least you should buy cheap blinkie lights so that if you do end up out later or earlier than usual you're slightly safer (and legal). You're better off at the cheap end buying lights that take AA batteries if you can, because the replacement batteries are cheaper and a light that cheap with a lithium rechargeable battery is likely to be very cheap indeed (ie, it will fail quickly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can you should really buy mudguards. Otherwise it's going to be really ugly riding in the rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, buy a decent lock. Educational institutions are full of poor but smart people, making them hotbeds of bike theft. Especially because the same people go to the same places at the same time every week, so it's easy to see a weakness this week and bring the right tools next week. Using a decent D lock to attach your bike securely to a rack or pole makes that type of theft much less likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those three things could easily add 100€ to the cost of the bike if you don't already have them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth looking at a reasonable second hand bike, partly for cost reasons and partly to make it less likely to be stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T04:33:29.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23195" CreationDate="2014-06-28T04:46:32.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the Omega MegaEXO FSA system uses a 19mm spindle diameter and hollowtech II is 24mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FSA BB86 BB (For alloy cranksets) or Shimano BB91 Road Press Fit Bottom Bracket will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T04:46:32.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23285" CreationDate="2014-06-28T07:30:58.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@alex was right in advising not to use tools where no tools are needed. Similarly, it is easy to run frame BBs or brankarm threads by forcing the thread with a wrench, instead of by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somehow, I had made the hose hard to unscrew by overtightening 2. I loosened it up, held it with a wrench and rotated the hose by hand. This solved the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T07:30:58.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22941" CreationDate="2014-06-28T18:38:29.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The NDS bottom bracket cup isn't installed correctly in your photo; you have a 2-3mm gap between it and the frame when there should be no gap at all. If that's as far as it gets with the spec torque (40Nm usually) then remove it and check the threads on both the shell and cup for anything which would stop it going in all the way and clean anything you find off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T18:38:29.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23303" CreationDate="2014-06-28T19:29:26.127" Score="7" ViewCount="1347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I visited my optician last week and the time has finally come for me to start wearing glasses for driving. As a result of this I figure it is probably a good idea to start thinking about prescription lenses for my cycling glasses too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking on the web, the prescription glasses that I'm seeing are basically &quot;regular&quot; cycling glasses (including regular lenses which may or may not be tinted), plus some kind of insert (clear prescription lenses) which seems to clip to the frame and sit between eye and frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;insert&quot; appears to be shaped to the frame, so it looks like I'd need to buy both glasses and insert, and possibly throw my current glasses away. (I'd rather not do this, but if I have to, I have to.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my first question, for anyone who already wears prescription glasses, is whether my description above is accurate or not? Second, does having this insert actually &quot;work&quot;? By &quot;work&quot;, I mean being able to ride a bike at decent speed, for several hours, up hills, down dales etc. For example, do people experience fogging problems (moreso than you might with non-prescription glasses)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next question is more general, a kind of a technology rec. Are there other viable approaches to prescription cycling glasses, that I should consider? For example is it possible to get prescription tinted plastic lenses that will just snap into a frame? (my gut feel is that I would prefer this approach if possible.) [Edit - I've now seen that this approach seems to be available, albeit at a premium (especially as I'd want lenses in at least two colours).]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of this question, it's fine to treat money as irrelevant, I can worry about this later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please note lastly that I'm not looking for any advice in the general area of cycling glasses here, I've been using them for years and think I already understand the pros and cons pretty well. It is purely the prescription aspect of things, I'd like to know more about.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-06-28T20:29:35.033" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T02:58:15.610" Title="Prescription Cycling Glasses" Tags="&lt;glasses&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9929" CreationDate="2014-06-28T20:53:45.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem climbing steep hills using low gears and a double wall rim.  After some trial I 1)  Elongated the inner rim wall 1/8&quot; on each side of the tube filler, 2)  Glued one side of the tire to the rim for 1 ft. using rubber cement,  3)  Increased the air pressure to 48 psi.  After the above I can climb with no problem for 2 years.  I could have gone tubeless but didn't because of other concerns.  DK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12786" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T20:53:45.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23158" CreationDate="2014-06-28T22:42:30.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/campaigns/thule-packnpedal/thule-pack-n-pedal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/campaigns/thule-packnpedal/thule-pack-n-pedal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fits pretty much any bike, front or rear, with or without suspension.  Adding the side rails gives you lower center of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12790" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T22:42:30.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23297" CreationDate="2014-06-29T00:36:37.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that you can get proper Oakleys with prescription lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.oakley.com/innovation/optical-superiority/prescription/lenses&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://uk.oakley.com/innovation/optical-superiority/prescription/lenses&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T00:36:37.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23313" CreationDate="2014-06-29T01:39:59.337" Score="2" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building up a road bike and have a wheelset with a rear hub that has a Campagnolo Chorus 10 speed cassette. The front derailleur will be a triple and I'm looking into the possibility of using a long arm friction shift Suntour Cyclone GT rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason I can't do this? Will the Cyclone have enough adjustment range? Will I need to replace the derailleur cogs with thinner ones for the 10 speed cassette? I've heard the older derailleurs like the Suntour have worked with 9 speed cassettes, and I may respace the Chorus to a 9 as an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of many questions I have to ask about this bike build, but thought it best to focus on one question at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12788" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T07:00:35.697" Title="Can I use a Suntour Cyclone GT Rear Derailleur for a 10 speed Campagnolo cassette?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23297" CreationDate="2014-06-29T01:57:18.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll answer you comment on contacts, as I think you should investigate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same dilemma a year ago. After wearing glasses for a couple of years for close up stuff, I was getting to the point I needed glasses while out on the trail. I looked around at options and decided to go down the contacts path. I now wear contacts in weekends and while riding, and have progressive lens glasses for work (computer based) that are suitable (although not ideal) for driving and distance. The glasses offer much better performance when its not raining, muddy etc, but when outdoors (biking, fishing, skiing etc) in all weather, contacts win hands down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you discuss contacts this with your optician. There are a vast range out there, from one time use that you take out an throw away to monthly lens than can be left in for a week. Your optician will discuss the in and outs of different types and what suits you, and try various combinations till you get one that works. He will teach you to put them in and take them out - all the stuff that is &quot;creepy&quot; is dealt with - You get shown how to do it properly (and safely), and will be taught how to do it. Although not for everyone, I found it easy to learn to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you said cost is not an issue - that is good. Contacts are not cheap - initial fitting costs (where they also teach you how to look after your eyes and the lenses) - and cost of the contacts and cleaners mean glasses work out much cheaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to discuss lazer surgery with your optician. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T01:57:18.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23252" CreationDate="2014-06-29T02:45:29.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summary: &lt;em&gt;I used it a lot for a while getting started. Now I never look at it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cadence was one of the primary features I was looking for when getting a computer for my road bike. I bought one of the nice Bontrager wireless models where the speed sensor and cadence sensor are all in one piece on the left chainstay. (not advocating wireless, it's just what I have).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it to be absolutely essential when I first started riding road. I'm tall and have strong legs so on a MTB I'm a &quot;masher&quot;. When I moved over to the road I had a tendency to pedal far too slow. I'd constantly need to look at my cadence to remember to bump it up. 80-90 on flat, 100ish up hills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few hundred miles, I got very used to those rhythms, and I'm able to stay in my target areas without the counter. I'll check from time to time, out of curiosity, but I find I almost never use it any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, If decide if you think you'd be the same way. Maybe use one for a bit and remove it later, or borrow one for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12791" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T02:45:29.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23316" CreationDate="2014-06-29T03:35:55.883" Score="12" ViewCount="32616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going on a 2 week touring trip and looking to buy a comfortable saddle that will be make my rides pleasant and efficient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have about a month to break in the saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How long should I spend breaking a brooks b17 before taking it on a touring trip?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips to speed it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastActivityDate="2020-08-08T02:43:02.330" Title="how long does it take to break in a brooks saddle (b17)" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9033" CreationDate="2014-06-29T03:53:00.580" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems clear to me that beneath the question of whether one should bike in the same direction that traffic is going, or facing oncoming cars, lies another more important issue: Are bicycles of a similar class or group as other vehicles, or are they different? If bikes are considered to be a similar class of vehicles as cars, then they should all follow the same rules - including moving in the same direction. If one argues that cyclists should face oncoming traffic, then you are making the assumption that they are different (that is, that they are not an equal type of transportation vehicle, or even that they are toys).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the interest of cyclists' right to share the road, clearly one should go in the same direction as traffic - to follow the same rules as all of the other vehicles which make use of the roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11331" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T03:53:00.580" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23311" CreationDate="2014-06-29T03:56:32.780" Score="23" ViewCount="7069" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike light, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00E1NQ4P2&quot;&gt;Cygolite Metro 360&lt;/a&gt;, has a &quot;Daylighting&quot; mode which flashes very brightly and is intended to be used during the day. Similarly, many tail lights have flashing modes. Obviously one should bike with lights at night. But is it advisable to bike with lights on (in flashing mode) during the day as well, to alert cars to your presence? Or does it not make much of a difference? If there are any scientific studies or data on this, please reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11331" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T10:39:59.870" Title="Does it make you safer to use lights during the day?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23307" CreationDate="2014-06-29T04:08:07.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most automobiles in the US now include daytime running lights, since there were studies showing that this did increase other drivers' awareness of them. If you want the scientific studies, knowing that the keywords are &quot;automobile daytime running lights&quot; is likely to help you find them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't entirely clear whether that effect fades when daytime running lights become the norm rather than an exception. It also isn't entirely clear whether it would apply with the smaller lights on bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think this is a case of &quot;It's not likely to hurt, and anything that makes a driver notice you might help.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(With the possible exception of drunk drivers, who have a bad habit of swerving toward whatever has caught their attention. But there are fewer drunks on the road during the day.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it help enough to justify its cost in batteries? I haven't a clue. Sounds like a great opportunity to run another study, if someone's looking for a thesis project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11505" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T04:08:07.643" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23297" CreationDate="2014-06-29T04:14:58.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of Oakley Fives with prescription and transition lenses. They're ideal for cycling. I don't have to worry about changing lenses, as they are always the right shade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really happy with them and couldn't recommend them highly enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/5679/1588&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for a slightly different context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T04:14:58.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23307" CreationDate="2014-06-29T04:52:04.233" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've done a lot of (non-academic) research on bike lights for this site's community blog and more recently for the bike lights resource site I created, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelightdatabase.com/&quot;&gt;The Bike Light Database&lt;/a&gt;. There is a disappointing lack of hard scientific data on bike lighting at all, and essentially none regarding this specific question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can tell you from extensive anecdotal experience that a flashing light definitely helps during the day, both forward-facing and rear-facing. A small AAA-powered blinky light won't do much for you, but if you have a high-output light on during the day, drivers give you much more respect. From the rear, they tend to slow down more and pass with a wider distance. On the front end, I'm much less likely to get cut off by drivers pulling out of driveways or side streets who think they have enough time to make it but don't quite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A flashing light is more useful during the day since there's so much more ambient light to compete with. The human eye responds to a flashing light more quickly than a solid light because it appears like movement. At night the flashing can be very distracting, but during the day there's not a high risk of disorienting drivers since again, there's so much ambient light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Cygolite first released the lights with their Day Flash mode they told me that they had done some studies that led them to selecting a certain minimum brightness for their day flash. I'll email me contact over there and see if I can find out what sort of research they did and if they can share any of that with us. I also met a university researcher who's doing some studies regarding bike lights, although last I talked with him it sounds like it was still a work in progress. I'll see if he's doing any work with daytime lighting and if he can share any of that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T04:52:04.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23307" CreationDate="2014-06-29T04:57:04.243" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22884376&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Safety effects of permanent running lights for bicycles: A controlled experiment. (Madsen JC1, Andersen T, Lahrmann HS.)&lt;/a&gt; they give about a 19% reduction in crash rates. There's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scribd.com/doc/216495894/1436-Madsen-2013-Accident-Analysis-Prevention-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;copy of the paper in Scribd&lt;/a&gt; as pdf. Every reference I've been able to find appears to refer to this one study.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The incidence rate, including all recorded bicycle accidents with personal injury to the participating cyclist, is 19% lower for cyclists with permanent running lights mounted; indicating that the permanent bicycle running light significantly improves traffic safety for cyclists&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia has a few articles, starting with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytime_running_lamp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;daytime running lights&lt;/a&gt; (reports largely positive results) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_lighting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bicycle lighting&lt;/a&gt; which gives a link in Danish that appears to refer to the Odense study above but claims 32% reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Daytime running lights improve cyclist safety significantly&lt;/em&gt; A large-scale experiments with daytime running lights on bicycles among 4,000 cyclists in Odense shows 32% reduction in cyclist accidents. The result is so striking that Councilman&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia Daytime Running Lights links to Google books copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com.au/books?id=LvthAgAAQBAJ&amp;amp;pg=PA168&amp;amp;redir_esc=y#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;OECD, International Transport Forum (2013), Cycling, Health and Safety&lt;/a&gt;, but I can't copy'n'paste out of it so here's an image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/99HED.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/864734-daytime-flashing-head-light-tail-light-experiment-results.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BicycleForums anecdote&lt;/a&gt; resulted in a largely positive discussion, and there's &lt;a href=&quot;http://isolatecyclist.bostonbiker.org/2011/09/19/daytime-running-lights-and-bicycle-visibility/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this rant&lt;/a&gt; that concludes they're essential. The Australasian College of Road Safety amongst others is &lt;a href=&quot;http://acrs.org.au/about-us/policies/safe-vehicles/daytime-running-lights/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;strongly support of them for motor vehicles&lt;/a&gt; so it's fair to assume bicycle riders would gain something from the practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW I'm convinced. I have dynamo lights on my commuter bike that I never turn off (they have standlights so they go off a few minutes after I stop moving).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-29T10:02:55.113" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T10:02:55.113" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23302" CreationDate="2014-06-29T07:00:35.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo 10 speed cassette is only 0.6mm wider end-to-end than their 9-speed cassette, so as long as the 9-speed setup still has that much adjustment in the limit screws you should be fine on that count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jockey wheels only care about the inside width of the chain which is 3/32&quot; on pretty-much all derailleur gear systems that have ever existed, so you won't need to change them for that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try it, if it doesn't work you can always fall back to your 9-speed plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T07:00:35.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2014-06-29T14:47:36.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the knobby tires on a MTB with high pressure road tires (Serfas Seca) and they made a huge difference. I looked into replacing other components, but it really wasn't worth it cost wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12767" LastEditorUserId="12767" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T19:17:34.717" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T19:17:34.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23305" CreationDate="2014-06-29T15:48:11.847" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of complete and utter non-sense around Brooks saddles. When it comes to saddles, everything works for somebody and nothing works for everybody. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule #1. If it's not reasonably comfortable on Day 1, it will never be comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saddle comfort is about getting the right shape to match your backside, leather saddles like the Brooks will break in and get more comfortable over time, but they won't significantly change shape. If you have the wrong shaped Brooks, it will never &quot;break in&quot; and get comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A month is not long enough to significantly change a Brooks saddle. But if it's working for you now, it will be working better for you in a month. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brooks gets a lot of good press because they are wider than typical road saddles and thus for many people it's the first saddle they've used that actually fits them. However, if your Brooks doesn't fit, it's just a heavy, expensive source of pain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T15:48:11.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2014-06-29T18:19:53.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pondered over this question for quite some time before my decision fell firmly on the hybrid.this was mainly due to my commute taking me through the peak district over roads which are pitted, poorly maintained and riddled with unavoidable potholes which a hybrid can effortlessly cope with but would prove expensively lethal to a road bike's thin tyres and wheels. I could opt for a more road bike friendly route put it would add 4 miles to my journey which defeats the object of additional speed. It all depends on your personal needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12801" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T18:19:53.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23345" CreationDate="2014-06-29T20:18:18.880" Score="3" ViewCount="4441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Zee crankset on a 83mm bottom bracket (downhill bike). The &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com.sg/publish/content/global_cycle/en/sg/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0003-downloadFile.html/Hollowtech%2520II%2520Crank%2520Installation.pdf+hollowtech+2&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;pid=bl&amp;amp;srcid=ADGEESh5h31__eUEAwl82s5zZJbDL2vJetuGp5JzrgJrx6HRlx28r0OBKaY-O1w2mpfwFkn-au9TAOVI_ITp8JKvokm8YlevJ8pKEyLuegTwSw6TrnMiI8uWXR7I18FOHdKiU1JZEPC0&amp;amp;sig=AHIEtbSMsrmu3-42CWAoTOyn7oDDtGw6YQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano manual&lt;/a&gt; says to use two 2.5mm spacers on the drive side, and one 2.5mm spacer on the non-drive side. However, this presumes the rear hub has a 150mm spacing, typical for downhill bikes. My bike has a 142x10 hub, when I use the spacers as specified, the chainline is completely off, I can't even get the chain on the largest cog. Since I'm not using a 150mm hub I obviously need to change the spacers, but I have no idea how to figure out how many spacers of what size I need on each side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6290" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T09:14:45.143" Title="how many spacers do I need for a 83mm bottom bracket and a 142x10 hub?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23307" CreationDate="2014-06-29T20:29:50.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A head light addresses cross traffic and head on traffic. &#xA;Too often vehicles are looking for vehicles and don't see a bike that is in plain site.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience is that yes a strong flashing light in daylight helps being seen.&#xA;I live in a large city that is not particularly bike friendly and I definitely feel it helps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took these picture through my truck window in full sunlight at 1:00 PM.   This is 400 lumens.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RsvA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A light is a safety tool. On cross streets and driveways don't assume the vehicle is going to stop and don't assume they see you.  I wait for the vehicle to stop and I wait for them to look at me.  With a light they don't just see you better it is easier to tell they saw you.  They will hesitate on the light and then typically make eye contact.  I feel like the super bright makes a difference.  They don't just see you - you get their attention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you ask about daylight but at night a powerful light puts out enough light for vehicles to see your light from a cross street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might think I don't need a $100 600 lumen light to see the road and at low speeds you don't.  The higher power lithium ion led lights we have today I feel are much more effective for be seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T20:29:50.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23323" CreationDate="2014-06-29T21:32:40.547" Score="2" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking of getting a larger cassette for my bike to tackle hills better, and I'm just looking for some thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Honky Tonk (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/kona/honky-tonk-2011-road-bike-ec026518&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/kona/honky-tonk-2011-road-bike-ec026518&lt;/a&gt;), with an IRD 12-28 on the back (the IRD is kind of meh, shifts rough).The setup is pretty middle of the road components wise (Sora on the front, Tiagra on the back, 9 speed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harris Cyclery offers a 13-30t cassette. Which would fit my current derailleur. But if I wanted to get something like a 13-34t cassette which long cage derailleur would people suggest swapping to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12804" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-06-29T23:41:03.373" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T00:42:51.393" Title="Larger cassette options on a compact set up?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;compact-crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23318" CreationDate="2014-06-29T21:51:12.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;83mm bottom brackets were designed specifically for use with a 150mm rear dropout width. You would be able to shim the bottom bracket across 5mm to bring it to where it would sit on a 73mm bb to align the chain line but you would be pushing your non drive out 10mm which would have an anatomical impact on the rider. This is a significant amount of q-factor imbalance and could quick become an uncomfortable bike to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest solution is to swap the crankset for a 73mm version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T21:51:12.853" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23321" CreationDate="2014-06-29T23:05:35.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This ships with a Tiagra SS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailleurs come in 3 lengths: SS (narrow range) , GS (medium range), SGS (wide range). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to move past 30t, you need to switch to a SGS derailleur, likely from the Shimano mountain range (e.g. Deore M591) - its 9 speed so the cable pulls are the same between the 9 speed deore and 9 speed Tiagra. This is what I'd likely do if i wanted a bigger cassette.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-06-30T01:51:03.700" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T01:51:03.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-30T04:39:20.543" Score="2" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike is a Specialized Camber 29, about five months old, from a shop about 220km away.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something feels different in my ride, and I'm wondering what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the rear goes sideways in sand much more often,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there's an different running sound from the rear tyre, at a different pitch than before,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the rear tyre is about 3mm taller than the front tyre, measured with callipers from the inside of the rim to the valleys in the tread,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a flat rear tyre last Thursday, I took the wheel to a local bike shop 70km away, who took the initiative to insert the old tube as a covering for a new tube.  There was already a protective layer of some sort between the tube and the tyre.  The region is known for thorns, but there was no evidence that a thorn caused the flat.  I put the wheel back in.  I'm wary of blaming this event, because I don't have enough experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride twice daily for half an hour each time, on dirt roads, for about 6km.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lack the tools and strength of hands to repair the wheel myself, and have no other riders nearby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a possibility that my failure to maintain the suspension system may have caused the problem; but I don't know enough about it to tell.  It has been left alone for the life of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a possibility that recent light rain may have changed the sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotation markers on the tyre are pointing in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12805" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T19:44:55.420" Title="Why has my ride changed?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23324" CreationDate="2014-06-30T06:00:15.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The protective layer is known as &quot;rim tape&quot;. The old tube shouldn't remain within the tire - the only thing inside the rim should be the rim tape and the new tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have different tire pressures than before - have you tried playing with them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T06:00:15.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23034" CreationDate="2014-06-30T10:12:17.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a website called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dcrainmaker.com&lt;/a&gt; please check out page &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2013/08/garmin-touring-computer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2013/08/garmin-touring-computer.html&lt;/a&gt; for the full guide however to answer your question and encase it disappears;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You can also specify if you want to start the route from where you are, or from another point on the map.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Once you’ve given it some instructions it’ll go off and come back with three routes (it’s like Monty Python – everything is in threes).  It did take a bit of time (perhaps 2 minutes) to come up with the routes.  Each route is roughly the distance you’ve specified, and all routes come back to where you started.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You can select any given route option to get a map overview:&#xA;There are a number of settings around routing and navigation within the options (applicable to round trip routing and generic routing), including how the unit routes and whether it, for example, minimizes routes with hills.&lt;/em&gt; This point here is were you select routing mode. it's not everything you were after but should give you a good help towards it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full specifications for the device, versus other devices, are at the bottom of his page. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8987" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T10:12:17.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23305" CreationDate="2014-06-30T12:24:34.917" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;By breaking in your Brooks B17 etc. leather saddle, you create the &quot;valleys&quot; in the leather for your sitbones and the crotch area of the pelvis bone.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore you need enough time for the leather to deform at these three areas. There is various information on the net. My experience is that &lt;strong&gt;about 500km of riding&lt;/strong&gt; (so about 25h at 20 km/h) gives a good enough break-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SITBONE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I agree with &quot;Fred the MagicWonder Do&quot;, if it is not roughly comfortable on day 1, i.e. roughly the width is not good enough, it never will be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from these, the biggest deciding factor of saddle comfort is &lt;strong&gt;total effective sitbone width&lt;/strong&gt;. This is measured in cm, and the width you need depends on two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Base width = width of your sitbones (in cm, typically 10-14 cm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plus additional width required for your riding position (in cm, typically 0-4 cm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;triathlon +0cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sporty +1cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trekking +2 cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;city +3 cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fully upright +4 cm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, go for wider. Narrower causes pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can measure your sitbone length with cardboard paper (like an amazon shipping box).&#xA;See the info at SQ Lab for the measurement (you don't need the special device, you can do it on a simple chair).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlaboratory-en/sqlab-ergonomic-bicycle-en/the-way-to-a-perfect-saddle-en/sit-and-fit.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SQ Lab saddle width measurement&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEjGc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sitbone width measurement&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, if the B17 is wide enough for you, after break in, it will be even more comfortable. If it is not wide enough, try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/catalogue-and-shop/saddles/city+%26+heavy+duty/B67/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brooks B67&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I remember well, the &lt;strong&gt;max effective sitting width of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/catalogue-and-shop/saddles/touring+%26+trekking/B17+Standard/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brooks B17&lt;/a&gt; saddle is 12 - 12.5 cm&lt;/strong&gt;, but you need to check. If your total effective width is above that, you will find it uncomfortable after break in, because your sitbones will be over the metal part of the saddle, where it cannot deform. So what counts for leather saddles is not the total width, but the parts that can deform, inside the metal U-frame. Also, for other saddle brands, this is what you need to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vh64X.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sitbone average widths for men and women&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/55lku.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sitbone contact points&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big part of men find comfortable a Brooks B17 width, and these people write in the reviews how comfortable it is. Those who complain, probably have more distance between the sitbones, and/or ride more upright, and the B17 is not wide enough for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a wider than average sitbone width (12.5 cm), and I ride in a trekking position (14.5 - 15.5 cm), and no surprise, the B17 was uncomfortable for me. The B67 was better. In the end, I decided on a 15 cm &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sq-lab.com/en/sqlab-products-en/sqlab-bicycle-saddles-en/trekking-en/604-trekking-saddle-en.html#.U7Fo8WSYc-Q&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SQ Lab 604 saddle&lt;/a&gt;, as it is water proof, and I often bike in rain/cold(wet). I don't like that when it rains, I stop, stand on my feet, the leather takes up water, and keeps me wet the whole day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XxGD4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brooks B17 bottom view - width&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CROTCH&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other deciding factor is &lt;strong&gt;crotch depth&lt;/strong&gt; - whether there is room for the crotch part of the pelvis bone, or the bone and genitals hit hard plastic/metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anatomic, or leather saddles have/create room for the crotch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This part of the comfort you cannot feel on the first ride on a leather saddle, only after break in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is independent from saddle size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For 1-2 hour rides, or triathlon positions (&quot;sitting on the legs&quot;), the crotch comfort doesn't matter that much. It matters usually after 50-60 km of ride. When my crotch hurts, I simply cannot ride more. When the saddle is right, my buttocks are tired, but don't hurt, and I can do 100+ km.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As there is less weight on the crotch, and when it hurts, unconsciously you will stand more on your legs, it takes more time for the &quot;crotch-valley&quot; to form in the saddle, maybe double time. At the beginning it hurts, and as time goes by, and as the leather deforms slowly, it will be better and better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An anatomic saddle, which has the valley for the crotch built-in, only needs some play with angle of the saddle, otherwise it should not hurt from day one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you change the angle of the leather saddle after break-in, it can be the the crotch-valley is not deep enough, and it hurts again, until it deforms according to your new position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, here's a link for saddle break in:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.randorichard.com/saddle-break-in&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Breaking in a Leather Saddle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is the most imformative page I've found about Brooks saddles:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/zadels/index_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leather Saddles - SWHS.home.xs4all.nl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="12749" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T15:53:33.587" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T15:53:33.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23104" CreationDate="2014-06-30T12:49:59.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low tech way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Measuring tape&lt;/strong&gt; Simply take it with you and measure five bikes that are comfy, and five that are not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Digital camera&lt;/strong&gt; Ask someone take a picture of you sitting on the bike, then review the picture to analyse yourself the sitting positions, both those that feel comfortable, and those that feel uncomfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Geometry:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chainstay&lt;/strong&gt;. You need long enough chainstay for panniers. My recommendation is 45 cm. Below 42 cm your feet can hit the panniers even with small feet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comfort&lt;/strong&gt;. You can select the ideal frame size based on different criteria: aerodynamics, efficiency, comfort, resulting speed, etc. For touring, the comfort is 10x more important then speed or anything else. This is because you sit 3-6h a day, for many days. On a tour, you get further by pedaling more and less by pedaling faster. Example: you can be 30-50% faster in an uncomfortable, but speedy position, but you can maintain that only for 1-2h. However, in a comfortable position, you can stay even 6-7h in the saddle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd rather select a slightly smaller bike vs. a slightly bigger bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By buying a second hand bike, what you risk is &lt;strong&gt;hidden failures&lt;/strong&gt; vs. the gain of lower cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steel frames: check for &quot;bents&quot; and corrosion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alu frames: check for cracks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bents usually come from accidents (falling with the bike), and cannot be corrected. You feel it only in the first moments of the riding, after a couple of minutes the feeling can go away. This cannot be repaired. I do have a steel bike that is bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cracks come from big impacts and overload. This can be corrected by welding the alu frame, you need to find an alu-welder. I do have an alu bike with a crack (high quality brand, I didn't take yet the time to find a welder and get it repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more details, see my response here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16373/how-do-you-distinguish-a-touring-bike-from-a-speed-road-bike/23235#23235&quot;&gt;How do you distinguish a touring bike...&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T14:11:22.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23746" CreationDate="2014-06-30T13:27:51.753" Score="2" ViewCount="2197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone removed a 19mm spindle (Omega) Press fit bottom bracket without destroying it in the process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have watched &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.tv/video/7006668/installation-of-megaexo-crankset-on&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fullspeedahead.tv/video/7006668/installation-of-megaexo-crankset-on&lt;/a&gt; and the tool mentioned #EE056 can't be found anywhere on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That link is now broken. The best places to look seems to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/support/technical-information-instructions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/support/technical-information-instructions/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not even sure that is for the 19mm version rather than the standard 24mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand I can take a punch/screwdriver and hammer it out of my frame, but the BB only has 1000km on it and I would like to reuse it in the winter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T12:30:00.683" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T12:30:00.683" Title="FSA Omega MegaEXO Press fit BB 19mm removal (non standard BB86)" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23297" CreationDate="2014-06-30T13:51:50.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a sturdy frame with decently wide coverage at my local Costco and ordered them polarized grey lenses. They're relatively cheap and are &quot;good enough&quot;. The lenses can be a little dark for evening rides. Were I to do it over, I'd probably get transition lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only draw back to not having bicycling lenses is I'm a tiny bit more likely to get dust in my eyes, but they certainly do a good enough job protecting my eyes from wind and bugs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11529" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T13:51:50.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23297" CreationDate="2014-06-30T13:59:56.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used the Oakley prescription M-Frame for years, quite happily, but discovered a few details that may help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, one of my lenses wasn't correct, and it took the eye shop a few minutes to figure it out because they couldn't measure the prescription off the lens like they normally do.  The M-Frame (and probably other cycling glasses) curve so much that Oakley has to run the prescription through their own formula to define the grinding.  It works great and gives you a beautifully wide field of clear vision, but somebody hand-transposed my astigmatism correction from 180 degrees to 108 degrees at Oakley.  They fixed it without hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, due to the curve of the M-Frame, the prescription lenses are an insert in a shield that has holes for them to pop into.  Looks slightly funny, but not bad, and they look great from your view.  The caveat is that the shield would always develop a small crack below the lens, likely due to different amounts of flex in the lens and shield.  I dubbed them &quot;Broke-leys&quot;, because I had to send them back in several times for repair, but they never argued with me and eventually I went the Lasik route and left the problem behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what the M-Frame insert approach looks like:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MnsEL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12724" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T13:59:56.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16460" CreationDate="2014-06-30T14:03:52.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saddle width depends on: sitbone width, and riding position. Usually touring is done in a more upright position, which requires a wider saddle vs. the same person in a sporty position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole in the middle is for your crotch. If that bone hits hard plastic/metal, it hurts a lot, and you cannot ride more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The B66 is a good choice for touring, probably it has already the right width and crotch &quot;valley&quot; for your body geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See my post here for more on width:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23305/how-long-does-it-take-to-break-in-a-brooks-saddle-b17/23328#23328&quot;&gt;Brooks leather saddle break in&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T07:15:08.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23452" CreationDate="2014-06-30T14:40:38.650" Score="10" ViewCount="19412" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a pair of: Diadora X-Country 2 MTB Shoes (pic below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about cleaning them, primarily to remove odor? I am tempted to put this in the washing machine- but the cleet is totally stuck to the shoe (imagine 7,000km, mostly in the wet). Brush + washing up liquid? What about the inside sole etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0vX6P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;I ended up using some handwash (with anti bacterial) and a brush/toothbrush and got the following results: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UL5gg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastEditorUserId="5815" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T07:37:51.120" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T13:29:41.897" Title="How do I get rid of odor from cycling shoes?" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23334" CreationDate="2014-06-30T19:34:45.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soaking them in a bucket of very diluted bleach water (~1 cap in a 5 gallon bucket) overnight should help with the odor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as drying, either grab a fan, or there are a lot of commercial solutions available.  They're mostly marketed for winter/ski boots, but they'll obviously work for any type of wet shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T19:34:45.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23324" CreationDate="2014-06-30T19:44:55.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like many comments, it sounds like it's at least partially related to a change in tire pressure. There's also the external change in tire tread that could contribute to the sound change. If you listen to a large knob tire on a road versus a small knob one, they sound totally different. Your tread might be starting to wear, thus giving a different sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra tube inside the tire might contribute to the height difference if some of that tube got stuck under the bead between the tire and the rim, though 3mm would be quite a bit; however, adding that bit of material plus the inherent tolerances in product sizing, it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, as you mentioned, it could be due in part to a change in the riding surface. Hard pack will definitely sound different than gravel or soft sand. And wet or dry sand will handle differently as well, especially if you have a tire with limited tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T19:44:55.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7168" CreationDate="2014-06-30T20:11:25.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tire pressure is the biggest issue with small wheel bikes.  High pressure in small wheel will lower rolling resistance, but you might want a spring cruiser seat to comfort your buns. ... Also your body might not be use to the folding bike fit, so it feels tiring.  In time you will get use to it, just like all different fitting bikes, and put some air in those tires man!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12811" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T20:11:25.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23334" CreationDate="2014-06-30T20:21:05.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to not wash cycle shoes.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found a boot/shoe dryer to be effective with odor. &#xA;The old style without a fan seems to work better for shoes. &#xA;Leave the dryer in for a day and cook that bacteria. &#xA;No I don't have medical information the dryer gets hot enough to kill bacteria but it seems to work. &#xA;It gets rid of the odor and the next time they get wet they don't seem to stink up as fast. &#xA;And a fresh set of socks with every ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this link you can kill odor bacteria with heat &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foot_odor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Foot odor&lt;/a&gt;    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove odor causing bacteria with Ozone, Sunlight, UV, Chemical, or&#xA;  Heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9xch.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-06-30T20:30:59.563" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T20:30:59.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="361" CreationDate="2014-06-30T20:37:41.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer the feel of tubeless tires.  Using the same tire, there is less rolling resistance by removing the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1648" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T20:37:41.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23343" CreationDate="2014-06-30T20:59:40.903" Score="4" ViewCount="1885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got 2300s on my bike. I don't much like the little thumb levers. I'd like to upgrade to Claris shifters, but I need to minimise the costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just change the shifters? They're both 8 speed (and double, in my case), but are the cables compatible as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="789" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T02:05:50.577" Title="Are Claris(ST-2400) shifters drop-in replacements for St-2300s?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23342" CreationDate="2014-06-30T21:13:33.750" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased a - 2nd hand - downhill bike which runs an 8 speed drive-train. Some components could do with an upgrade - specifically the shifter which is damaged. I have all of the necessary 9 speed components on a different bike which I'm happy to swap, the only problem is that I'm not sure if they will be compatible with the 8 speed sprocket / outer-ring? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also seems difficult to track down decent, new 8 speed mountain bike components for further upgrades. Do I have to replace the sprocket / outer-ring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10647" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T21:36:09.563" Title="Chainring Compatability" Tags="&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23341" CreationDate="2014-06-30T21:36:09.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short: it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chainrings tend to be much more compatible across gear counts than anything else in the drivetrain. It amounts to &quot;does the chain fit&quot;, and when you're talking 8/9 speed the chain width is the same anyway, so yes, that will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real question is whether the bolt pattern is compatible between the two, because that's where the real variation is. But it's probably obvious - look at it, try it. Pull one chainring off and hold it next to the other bike. If the bolt holes line up you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're asking whether you can swap the cranks with chainrings attached, that's harder to answer. The first question is whether the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/2759#2759&quot;&gt;bottom brackets&lt;/a&gt; are compatible. There are several sorts these days, with the traditional square taper being superseded by larger diameter axles of various shapes. If those are the same, the next question is clearance between the chainrings and chainstay. The only reliable way to test that is trying it, for which you'll need the right tool(s) to pull the cranks off. With many modern bottom brackets that's as simple as undoing the bolts and pulling them off by hand, with square taper you need a special tool. When putting the other chainring on, watch that you're not pressing the chainring against the frame as you do the bolts up. Then make sure there's a few mm of clearance between frame and chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T21:36:09.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23340" CreationDate="2014-06-30T22:15:48.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes I test rode a Sora a few years ago with those thumb shifters - truly awful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut feel (I know Shimano well, but don't have direct experience of this groupset) is that one is a direct replacement for the other, but the only evidence I can find to back this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/B00HYH4JKO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a review on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure there'll be no problems shifting, because you're staying at 8-speed. I was just a bit hesitant to answer in case something to do with the braking might have changed. But that guy's review suggests you'll be ok - sounds like he did exactly what you're proposing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T22:15:48.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23340" CreationDate="2014-07-01T02:05:50.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Both shift 8 speed shimano clusters. The spacing on 8 speed clusters has stayed the same since they first came out. So any 8 speed shimano compatible shifter is a replacement for any other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T02:05:50.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23318" CreationDate="2014-07-01T09:24:09.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution I found so far are chainring spacers: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6290" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T09:24:09.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24028" CreationDate="2014-07-01T16:19:57.673" Score="4" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2011 Trek 1.1, and my derailleur hanger broke in a crash a few weeks ago. I've tried both a number 5 and number 6 hanger, which are what &lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelsmfg.com/derailleur-hanger-manufacturers/?manufacturer=Trek&amp;amp;q=Search+For+Model&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WheelsMFG has listed&lt;/a&gt;, but neither seem to fit. There is not any damage to the frame, so I'm at a loss as to why these won't fit. The old derailleur hanger is chewed up, and I can't make out what number it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest a better hanger that I can buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12818" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T09:18:24.523" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T13:33:49.003" Title="Trek 1.1 Derailleur Hanger" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-01T17:21:21.950" Score="-1" ViewCount="6715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I maintain several 9-speed (rear cassette) road bikes (Giant OCR 1/2/3, Tiagra and 105 from 2000-ish era) and one 10-speed rear cassette 105 road bike, made in 2007. I'm trying to find out if I can buy &quot;one&quot; chain to fit all these bikes and get good shifting results, thus only stock one kind of spare. I've read some people say yes, 10 speed chain works even better on their 9 speed setup, but it's all so context-specific. Instead of guessing, It'd be great if someone had information based on experience. I would like to focus on shifting/riding performance, and leave out the issue of possible variances in chain longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Based on actual &lt;em&gt;experience&lt;/em&gt;, do any of these specific 10-speed chains work &lt;em&gt;well&lt;/em&gt; on a Shimano Tiagra 9-speed rear drivetrain? Well meaning shifts without issues, not &quot;noisy&quot; compared to 9 speed chain.  KMC 10.93?  SRAM PC-1031/PC-1071? Shimano CN-6701?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Are there other specific models of chains, that work well this way, based on actual experience? (For example, maybe there are chains marketed as 9-speed that are actually spec'd to the 10-speed specs, or other chain manufacturers I didn't include)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12819" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T20:43:01.450" Title="Specific 10 speed chain models that work well on 9 speed Shimano rear drivetrains" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23334" CreationDate="2014-07-01T20:12:48.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If odor is your main concern, I can highly recommend the so-called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/boot-bananas-p-1654.html&quot;&gt;boot bananas&lt;/a&gt;. You put them in your shoes whenever you are not using them, and it slowly kills all odors. I have a pair of boot-bananas for a year now, and I am very enthousiastic about it, all odors are gone since I use them. It did not use them for my cycling shoes though (they don't smell as far as I know), but for other sporting shoes. It is not cheap, but certainly worth the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people put their shoes in the freezer, as it also kills a lot of the bacteria, which cause the bad smell, but I do not have first hand experience with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7525" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T20:12:48.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23356" CreationDate="2014-07-01T22:56:53.520" Score="14" ViewCount="18402" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some length options for the crank arms - like 170mm, 175mm.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What is the difference for the rider? In which way does it effect the commute?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/660/selecting-the-right-crank-length&quot;&gt;Selecting the right crank length&lt;/a&gt;, didn't get a comprehensive answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2017-03-13T09:40:15.173" Title="What is the effect of changing length of crank arms?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-01T23:13:07.443" Score="1" ViewCount="20831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with Avid hydraulic brakes. The levers feel loose and at the end of pushing it, there is a &quot;soft&quot; feeling (like when V-brakes pads aren't adjusted properly).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As I understand, it's air inside the pipes. Is there something I can try to do to fix it without opening it / refilling liquid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T22:02:59.027" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T11:30:22.473" Title="Hydraulic brakes feel loose" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23352" CreationDate="2014-07-01T23:26:50.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It affects several factors: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The range of motion during the pedal-stroke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time per revolution (as a result of the increased radius)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the maximum torque a rider is able to put on the crank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of riders only pay attention to range of motion. For taller people and those with longer legs, longer crank arms are necessary to generate a larger range of motion in the thigh/hip. This uses more muscles and feels less cramped. However, shorter riders might benefit (if they have the power) from longer crank arms for the sake of increased torque. However, torque is generally ignored since the increase is quite minimal (only heard of a few pros doing this). Most people will be fine in th 172.5mm range. If you are tall then I would say it is an absolute necessity to get 175mm crank arms (I myself am tall and feel cramped when riding anything shorter). Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12822" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T23:26:50.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23330" CreationDate="2014-07-01T23:29:57.443" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Punching a bb out with a screwdriver or similar won't necessarily destroy it as long as you are careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12822" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T23:29:57.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23352" CreationDate="2014-07-01T23:40:55.970" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you keep the rest of the bike the same a shorter crank gives more ground clearance at the bottom of the stroke, and that's going to be the main thing most people notice. You're unlikely to notice a change in power output unless you're shorter than, say, 1.7m, which would put you firmly on the down-slope of the power curve (ie, the part where longer = less power). You may notice a change in comfort or pain levels due to the increased joint articulation from the longer cranks. IMO most people would be better off switching from 170mm cranks to 160mm or 165mm cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the high performance end the power output varies in interesting ways. Since power = torque x speed, and torque = force x radius, a longer crank means more torque but also more leg movement to produce it. And vice versa for shorter cranks. In practice most athletes have a fairly flat relationship between average power and crank length in the range 150-170mm, but it's also something that is little studied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A study by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11417428&quot;&gt;Martin (2001)&lt;/a&gt; suggests that it doesn't really matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Power produced with the 145- and 170-mm cranks was significantly (P &amp;lt; 0.05) greater than that produced with the 120- and 220-mm cranks. The optimal pedaling rate decreased significantly with increasing crank length, from 136 rpm for the 120-mm cranks to 110 rpm for the 220-mm cranks. ... The optimal crank length was 20% of leg length or 41% of tibia length. ... Even though maximum cycling power was significantly affected by crank length, use of the standard 170-mm length cranks should not substantially compromise maximum power in most adults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found some &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicyclecranklength.blogspot.com.au/&quot;&gt;thought experiments&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclinganalysis.com/annotated-bibliography-cycling-research/crank-arm-length&quot;&gt;this interesting summary/bibliography&lt;/a&gt;. (edit to add) Ian Sims at GreenSpeed has long had an interest but I can't access their site right now, so here's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atob.org.uk/technical/crank-length/&quot;&gt;A2B magazine post&lt;/a&gt;. It's worth noting that Ian has changed his position completely, based on evidence that he mentions in that article. Previously he was a fan of long cranks, now he's suggesting that short ones work better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit by mattnz replacing Mσᶎ's link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powercranks.com/cld.html&quot;&gt;PowerCranks&lt;/a&gt; have an interesting sales push with useful links and discussion.  They also provide test results showing advantages of short cranks. Apart from being benificial to people with poor flexibilty and knee problems, short cranks provide major racing benefit from improved aerodynamic position. They also discuss why its a myth you need long cranks for climbing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(moz again) My experience is that shorter than conventional cranks work better than I expected and reduced my knee pain somewhat when riding hard (long tours or fast commuting for 40+ km/day). I'm 1.8m tall and ride 155mm cranks because those are the shortest I could get without paying a price premium. My partner is 1.5m tall and prefers 145mm cranks. Going up to the 165mm cranks on my load bike feels like a significant jump, but I haven't tested them because I don't have access to a power meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T02:35:09.857" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T02:35:09.857" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23353" CreationDate="2014-07-02T00:17:09.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic brakes develop air in the lines as they're used ( heat / chemistry are to blame ). The only way to remove that air from the system is to properly bleed the brakes. Trying to find a shortcut around this important procedure probably won't help you any, and worse case scenario you could kill yourself or someone else when your brakes fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, you should probably pay a professional to bleed them properly if you don't know what you're doing. Also, the Avids that use DOT fluid have a habit of degraded performance over time, regardless of there being air in the fluid. If yours feel soft even after a professional bleed, I would recommend upgrading to a higher quality hydraulic brake ( one that uses mineral oil ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T00:17:09.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23353" CreationDate="2014-07-02T01:29:05.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a kit to bleed that brake.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sram.com/avid/products/disc-brake-bleed-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Disc Brake Bleed Kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is one of those tools/kits that as an individual it is not worth buying. &#xA;Even on Amazon the kit it $40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A (quality) bleed replaces the fluid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T01:29:05.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21155" CreationDate="2014-07-02T01:37:07.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Batman has commented, I suspect getting the data down to this level is probably going to be quite hard.  That said there is some Australian research which may be of interest to you.  In particular a &lt;a href=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1079188/Research/Lindsay_%282013%29.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;study undertaken in South Australia&lt;/a&gt; which looked at the circumstances surrounding crash involvement for a group of 61 bicycle riders involved in a collision with a motorised vehicle who were admitted to the Royal Adelaide Hospital over the period between January 1 2008 and December 31 2010. You can read a &lt;a href=&quot;http://aushiker.com/profiling-cyclists-injured-in-crashes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;summary&lt;/a&gt; of this study on my site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This descriptive study provides some insight into cyclists and motor vehicle interaction and adds to growing literature on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://aushiker.com/profiling-cyclists-injured-in-crashes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://aushiker.com/profiling-cyclists-injured-in-crashes/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T00:48:44.253" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T00:48:44.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23321" CreationDate="2014-07-02T01:51:07.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tourer on a Surly Long Haul Trucker and I wouldn't consider a 30-34 &quot;a pretty low gear&quot;, not when climbing hills on a loaded bike.  My bike which has done a lot of touring including outback touring when the load is pretty big (trailer + six panniers = 35 litres of water, 20 days of food) is configured with a  Shimano Deore XT CS-M770 11-34 rear cluster and up front an Andel 26-36-48t crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rear derailleur is a Shimano Deore XT RD-M761 SGS long cage.  In my experience the Deore level is more than acceptable from a touring perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I would consider is getting is getting down to 11 or 12 on the rear. You will be surprised how handy that is coming down the other side :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand you really want a decent granny to get up and this is where the 26-34 comes into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use this bike for loaded touring as opposed to credit card touring I would at least change out that rear cassette and see how it goes, but I suspect you may want to fit a MTB style front chainring as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T00:42:51.393" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T00:42:51.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23158" CreationDate="2014-07-02T02:00:04.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Racks specific for front suspension are not so common and there are questions often raised about the handling effects.  Personally I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/A_MpHyCdeqUGRGmQb_xvWFx5XvJuqWdYa1mK6VX5tD8=w1084-h745-no&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tubus Swing&lt;/a&gt; rack on my Giant XTC 2 and have found that works well, but then I am not a technical off road rider :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the downside I believe that Tubus have stopped making the Swing so it may be harder to find. That said it is still listed on their website so the rumours maybe incorrect. If it is true I think this leaves you with the option only of the Old Man Mountain offerings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EjLyt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tubus Swing fitted to a Giant XTC 2&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P94bJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tubus Swing in action on the Munda Biddi Trail&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&#xA;Andrew&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastEditorUserId="12823" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T04:05:04.903" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T04:05:04.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23406" CreationDate="2014-07-02T03:37:25.587" Score="2" ViewCount="3357" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I have a Cannondale &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/2014/bikes/recreation-urban/urban/bad-boy/bad-boy-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bad Boy 5&lt;/a&gt; and I'm &lt;em&gt;LOVING&lt;/em&gt; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7iBwe.png&quot; alt=&quot;bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to understand how to transport it. I have 2014 BMW 4 Series coupe. Even though I folded back seats (to maximize trunk storage), bike won't fit there (well at least not all the way anyway), so I gotta take one of the wheel off. The wheels are 700c discs and the fork is a Cannondale Lefty fork (i.e. attaches only on one side). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;my main concern is since i cannot easily take off front wheel due to lefty fork and i can use quick release to take the rear wheel off; What's better way to handle derailleur (without ruining your cloth, car, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally I'd like to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use quick release to remove rear wheel,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;place chain into some sort of container (suggestions?),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;place bike along with separated wheel (derailleur up) inside of the car, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go to wherever, and revert procedure. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12667" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T01:50:57.517" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T14:36:07.513" Title="How should I transport Cannondale Bad Boy 5 INSIDE a BMW 4 Series Coupe?" Tags="&lt;cannondale&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23362" CreationDate="2014-07-02T04:20:29.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If cannot fit the bike in you have four options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the front wheel and lower seat, this makes the bike much smaller.&#xA;This is the no cost, no change to car and medium effort to get wheel off and on &#xA;and get bike in and out of car.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSFCV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mount a roof rack and use a carrier.&#xA;This is a medium cost, semi permanent (roof rack can be removed) and medium&lt;br&gt;&#xA;effort to get bike up and down.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vte5q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Install a trailer hitch or tow bar and use a hard mount rack.&#xA;This is an expensive permanent solution if you don't have a trailer hitch &#xA;installed. You can remove rack however and bike is very easy to get on and off rack.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bt9IS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a trunk mounted rack.&#xA;This is a cheap temporary solution. Medium effort to mount rack on trunk easy&lt;br&gt;&#xA;to get bike on and off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYwo6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T06:25:15.870" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T06:25:15.870" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23154" CreationDate="2014-07-02T05:33:35.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes but there are questions often raised about the handling effects and the way they are mounted.  My understanding is that the approach taken with the Tubus Swing which I have is considered less optimal than the approach adopted by Old Man Mountain illustrated above.  That said I have a Tubus Swing rack on my Giant XTC 2 and have found that it works well, but then I am not a technical off road rider :).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kj5wx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tubus Swing fitted to a Giant XTC 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One point to note but is that you may see that I was not able to get it horizontal so the panniers do tend to slide back towards the bike if not fitted tightly.  Also the Swing is probably best with smaller front panniers only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OqyCE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tubus Swing in action on the Munda Biddi Trail&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T00:41:32.810" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T00:41:32.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13916" CreationDate="2014-07-02T05:43:07.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Surly Long Haul Trucker which came stock with dropbars and Tektro 992 “Oryx” brakes cantilever brakes and levers. I have now switched out those cantilever brakes out for Avid Single Digit 7 v-brakes and to specifically answer your question fitted Cane Creek Drop V brake levers. These are not integrated shifter levers but, so I still have my bar-end shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HndLQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me this update has significantly improved the braking on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T00:42:07.480" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T00:42:07.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3997" CreationDate="2014-07-02T05:52:17.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I upgraded the brakes on my Surly Long Haul Trucker in preperatio for what was planned to be a 5,000 km tour which turned into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://aushiker.com/chasing-the-dirt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3,000 km tour&lt;/a&gt; I fitted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolstop.com/english/tectonic.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Koolstop Tectonic v-brake shoes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y5IBg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-MOnYqmdCld0/T_I8pRRI3vI/AAAAAAAADf0/oxdl1Q6ZVyY/w550-h412-no/P6300027.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Koolstop describe them as ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;come[ing] with a multi friction compound set up, but single or dual&#xA;  compounds can also be configured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found them to work well on a loaded touring bike in dry and wet conditions. Without a doubt the whole upgrade to the bike (going from cantilever brakes to v-brakes) was a significant improvement. How much is just down to the pads I cannot say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW those pads are still on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T00:42:33.683" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T00:42:33.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21397" CreationDate="2014-07-02T07:22:18.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the ball bearing for wear or lost balls. I had the same feeling once, and it was the ball bearing which caused it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11214" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T12:21:35.083" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T12:21:35.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23362" CreationDate="2014-07-02T15:52:56.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The BMW roof rack system can be found for ~120$ USD, and 140$ USD for the touring bike carrier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works extremely well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5ZxbB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;On my 1 series&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T15:52:56.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23362" CreationDate="2014-07-02T18:05:02.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you literally mean inside then:&#xA;If you are going to remove a wheel and lefty makes front difficult.  Then remove the rear and place derailleur up and near rear of trunk.  Why place the chain in a container - just leave the chain on the bike. You still have dirt to deal with from front wheel but better than grease from derailleur and chain.  Get a rubber trunk mat.  Weathertech makes one for a BMW 4 Series Coupe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is bit conservative but Cannodale has some very specific recomendations regarding racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.cannondale.com/media/Manuals/14_Cannondale_Owners_Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;14_Cannondale_Owners_Manual.pdf&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;See page 101 Type of rack design  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4I5qt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cannondale Type OR Rack Design&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one rack that is wheel only&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yakima.com/shop/bike/roof/frontloader&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;YakimaFrontLoader&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T18:29:03.937" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T18:29:03.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23377" CreationDate="2014-07-02T19:39:48.783" Score="3" ViewCount="12369" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before you answer:&lt;/strong&gt; no matter what bike I would change tires to 2&quot; slick front, 2&quot; semi-slick rear, so in other words, tires in this question does not play role (now I have 26&quot; MTB and I use 2.35&quot; to get the desired effect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;max speed on the road in short distance (when you spill out your lungs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maneuverability in city traffic (going between cars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and taking long trips on hard surfaces comfortably (and safely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How the &lt;strong&gt;frames&lt;/strong&gt; of cross 700c bicycle and 29er affect those three factors? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I already noticed that since 700c have usually flat top tube of the frame falling from the saddle can hurt, 29er has more clearance -- so this a plus for 29er in terms of safety.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't consider downhill, going through mud, sand, big rocks, and on the other hand only smooth asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; example of cross 700c bike: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sklep-romet.pl/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;path=61&amp;amp;product_id=64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sklep-romet.pl/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;path=61&amp;amp;product_id=64&lt;/a&gt; and 29er as well: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sklep-romet.pl/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;path=59&amp;amp;product_id=85&amp;amp;size=MTB%2029ER&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sklep-romet.pl/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;path=59&amp;amp;product_id=85&amp;amp;size=MTB%2029ER&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T20:59:52.957" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T02:24:55.597" Title="Frame differences between 700c and 29er?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23373" CreationDate="2014-07-02T20:16:03.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you mean a cyclocross frame vs mtb 29er frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally road bike will be more maneuverable in tight areas, like when you are cutting lanes. The geometry is better suited to that. Also every 29er bike I've ever ridden has monstrously wide handlebars when compared to a road bikes handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For maximum speed, road bikes will win that one as well. They are generally lighter, and stock gearing is set up better for constant pedalling, whereas 29ers usually set up for low gear spinning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long trips, that's more up to the frame material than which kind of bike you ride. steel or titanium would be much more comfortable than aluminum any day (ignoring suspension), carbon fiber can span between the two ends of the spectrum. BUT, you'll be able to ride longer with the same amount of energy on a road bike vs 29er, and in doing so be more comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10351" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T01:53:21.913" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T01:53:21.913" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23348" CreationDate="2014-07-02T20:43:01.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going with the KMC X10 line of chains, in particular, the KMC X10.93 chain, looks like around $25, as my &quot;one chain to drive them all&quot; for my 9 and 10 speed rear derailleur bike collection of Shimano drive train bikes.  After it arrives, I'll post an update with the experience-based results on my 9 speed bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12819" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T20:43:01.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23373" CreationDate="2014-07-03T02:24:55.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since both the bikes you link to are mountain bikes, you seem to be primarily concerned with wheel size or frame size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the two wheel sizes are the same = 700c is, more or less, a rim size, while 29&quot; is the outer diameter of the tyre (except that obviously you can get different width &quot;29er&quot; tyres and that affects outside diameter). That confusion is why tyres are now actually sold by ISO rim diameter - specifically the bead seat diameter. If you get that right the tyre will go onto the rim (it may not fit into your frame, or it may be far too fat for the narrow rim, but it will go on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame size matters when you convert one of those to ride fast on sealed roads, you're going to need to do more than just switch the tyres. Most obviously, the 29er is generally lower than the cross frame so when you put the seat and handlebars up to get a better position for fast riding you may find that the 29er can't do that with the stem and seat post that come with it. So you'll probably have to buy a rising stem and possibly a head tube extender, and (less likely) a longer seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gearing is also different, 48-11 top gear on the cross bike and 42-11 on the 29er. For both bikes you're probably going to want higher gears, but for the 29er the jump is going to be significant meaning you might need to change the front derailleur as well. I suggest allowing for a 50T or 53T large chainring, which on the cross bike is a small change and may not be worth while. It depends on how fast you ride and pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both frames are aluminium, just like most mid-range road bikes. I don't think that matters for what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that site the touring bikes (TREKKINGOWE?) would probably be an easier conversion to what you want, but I suspect you might prefer a cyclo-cross bike (drop bars, disk brakes, slightly heavier/stronger than a road bike). Cyclocross bikes are or were made in Poland, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecvv.com/product/4286908.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website for 'Scattante' is gone&lt;/a&gt;. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stevensbikes.de/2013/index.php?bik_id=9&amp;amp;cou=FR&amp;amp;lang=en_US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a German manufacturer&lt;/a&gt; instead :) They won't carry as much weight as a touring bike, but as a result they're lighter. And they're usually designed for more speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T02:24:55.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9510" CreationDate="2014-07-03T06:02:13.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The saddle with the right width, and with a &quot;valley&quot; for the crotch area will feel comfortable.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be a leather saddle after break-in (ex. Brooks B17 or B67), or an anatomically designed saddle, like SQ Lab. Both need to be of the right width for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a saddle is too narrow, you will get sore, my experience shows that about 4-5h a day with a too narrow saddle is my limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a saddle hits you around the crotch area, it will cause pain, and you cannot ride more that day. My experience is 1-2h is enough to make pain in this area, and I start feeling &quot;I want to get off&quot; after 5h it is terrible, and I don't want to ride for days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See my response on this post about the details on sitbone width, and crotch area.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23305/how-long-does-it-take-to-break-in-a-brooks-saddle-b17/23328#23328&quot;&gt;Breaking in a Brooks B17 - sitbone width, crotch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T06:02:13.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4618" CreationDate="2014-07-03T06:06:28.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your riding position on the road bike and the commuter bike, you will need up to 4cm wider seats on your commuter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask a friend to take a picture of you sitting on the bike, and review the picture, to determine your sitting position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See my answer here for the details with pictures:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23305/how-long-does-it-take-to-break-in-a-brooks-saddle-b17/23328#23328&quot;&gt;Sitbone width recommendations from SQ Lab&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T06:22:24.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24931" CreationDate="2014-07-03T06:58:18.927" Score="6" ViewCount="28496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the search for a new long distance touring bike, and I'm surprised that most top models have no front suspension (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.idworx-bikes.de/de/bikes/trekkingbikes.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;IDWorks&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tout-terrain.de/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tout Terrain&lt;/a&gt;, Koga, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like front suspension is a rarity at the top, but available on middle class trekking bikes. The top bikes with specific long distance touring geometry and specs are less available with front suspension. Some trekking bikes that I've found with front suspension:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/aut/2014/bikes/recreation-urban/urban/tesoro/tesoro-1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cannondale Tesoro 1 2014&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roseversand.de/bike/rose-black-creek-3-trekking-herren-2014/aid:687103&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rose Black Creek&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koga-signature.com/en/signature-newsitem.aspx?Id=2171487&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Koga-Miyata Feathershock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/de-de/bikes/model/expedition.at/12609/59118/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Giant Expedition AT 2013 (not sold anymore)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Schwalbe's balloon bike concept in general &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.balloonbikes.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.balloonbikes.com/en/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been riding a Cannondale Headshock bike for commuting and touring in the last ten years, and I loved the front suspension. I find it softer on the hands/wrists, especially on long rides. If the suspension is off, and I ride a full day, my hands get much more tired, vs. with the suspension on. Handwriting for example is much harder after a long day of riding, with suspension off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had zero issues with the fork, functions since 2004 without issues. I do have a front rack, too. The bike has wide tires (IRC Lover Soul, 26x2.25).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems the benefits are there, there are no maintenance issues (was serviced regularly), racks can be mounted on them, and cost in the upper segment shouldn't be an issue. And the top touring bikes are still offered without front suspension. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me ask again: my question is NOT about the pros and cons of using a suspension fork in touring in general, or whether you think I need it or not, or what is my definition of a touring bike, or whether there are touring bikes with suspension or not (there's a lot of them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is that while many middle range touring bikes are with front suspension (1000-2000 Euro bikes), then most of the TOP of the line touring models (4000 Euro and above) are without?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My logic would be that if it is offered in mid range, it's also offered on the top bikes, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See for example the range of Rose bikes, who are one of those manufacturers who sell among the highest number of touring bikes. Rose has 20 different &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roseversand.de/produkte/fahrraeder/trekking-bikes/trekking---tourenraeder/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Tourenräder&quot; for 1000-2000 Euro&lt;/a&gt;, so these middle range touring models are almost all with front suspension. If I look at Tout Terrain for example, from the 10 top of the range models, they only have two model with front suspension, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tout-terrain.de/fahrraeder/panamericana-xplore/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Panamericana&lt;/a&gt;, and all the rest is fixed fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Money: it is not a reason while these bikes are over 4000 Euro anyway, and mid range bikes are with suspension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ease of repair: I see not a reason while disc brakes, carbon drive, hydraulic brakes, XT derailleurs are equally fine machinery that need care, and difficult to repair on site. To me, the dérailleur is the most delicate part of any bike, it gets damaged during transport or hard terrain easily, and very difficult to repair. And anyway, parts can be delivered by DHL anywhere. And again, mid range bikes are with suspension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight: these bikes are 15+kg, just the Schwalbe tyres are 700-800g each, the pack is around 20kg, so shaving off 200-300g from the bike weight doesn't matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Force: if a fork can withstand downhill, they should handle touring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So none of these justify why offer lots of mid-range touring bikes with suspension, and then the top range much less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="12749" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T21:01:45.020" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T21:48:04.787" Title="Why top touring bikes have no suspension forks?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21563" CreationDate="2014-07-03T07:05:08.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great article about the pros and cons. The writer chose a 28&quot; (700c) bike for single bike, and 26&quot; for the tandem bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2011/12/700c-vs-26-inch-wheel-size-for-touring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;700c vs 26inch Wheel Size for Touring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T07:05:08.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23380" CreationDate="2014-07-03T07:28:07.550" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suspicion is that they add to the cost and most tourists prefer to spend that money on something else. The touring market is also small enough that it's unlikely any manufacturer makes a touring-specific suspension fork. But as you've found, front suspension bikes are still available. At the high end you're probably going to be better off getting a custom frame, in which case you can just shop for a builder who will include suspension. The fact that most of those bikes are not spec'd with suspension again suggests to me that few buyers want it. My guess is that most high end tourists are looking at self-supported touring so load capacity is an issue, and faced with the choice of (for the extra money) a Rohloff or front suspension, choose the former.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen quite a few tourists with damaged or inoperative suspension forks, quite a few of whom were going to switch to a soil fork as a result. I've not many many who want to switch the other way. My limited experience of touring on an upright with front suspension was that it didn't add much value. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the problem is that there are a few suspension stems around (on eBay from ~$40!) and they solve the manufacturers problem (suspending the handlebars) more cheaply and flexibly. Specifically, it's easy to offer them as an option and see who takes it up... and the answer appears to be &quot;not enough to justify the hassle&quot;. I have seen people who swear by those stems, especially on the back of tandems, and they seem to work quite well. So that may be an option for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And note that from a bike shop point of view suspension is a hassle. There are dozens if not hundreds of different forks each with a bunch of different unique parts. Some parts are available, some are only available second hand, and other just aren't available. A small shop might not service suspension at all, sending it off somewhere else to be worked on. Many cities have a bike shop that specialises in this work, at least in Australia. What that means for you as a tourist is that a suspension problem might take 2-3 weeks to get dealt with, if it can be done at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with the Cannondale Headshock has been that it works ok for touring, but I only use it because of lack of alternatives (low recumbent so a sliding-leg suspension is far too wide to work). It's expensive to service and needs servicing far more often than I would like (three times in about 60,000km). I will be putting something else in my next touring bike. I believe Cannondale have stopped supporting headshocks, and parts for the older lefty forks are on the way out. So if you have a problem with a headshock you may have to replace the whole bike since a standard fork won't fit. Which makes taking the bike a risky proposition since if it breaks the trip is effectively over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T07:28:07.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23384" CreationDate="2014-07-03T08:37:06.543" Score="8" ViewCount="51763" Body="&lt;p&gt;i got some old Look Road Pedals (&lt;em&gt;see picture&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now i found plenty of Cleats for cheap, but they all are for either &lt;code&gt;Look Keo&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Delta&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;SPD-Sl&lt;/code&gt;. &#xA;Are those compatible? Did anything change from the old Look Pedals to the new Keo Pedals that could cause problems? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What cleats can i use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/axB5h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;old look pedals&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4333" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T05:44:32.333" Title="Compatibility Look-Keo/Look/SPD-Sl Plates &amp; Pedals" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23383" CreationDate="2014-07-03T10:19:39.420" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look Keo 2&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Look Keo&lt;/strong&gt; are Look's current/previous range and they are compatible with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look Delta&lt;/strong&gt; are Look's earlier range. I'm afraid they are not compatible with Keo's or Keo 2's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SPD-SL&lt;/strong&gt; are Shimano's version of road pedals. These aren't compatible with Look products, (neither therefore are Look products compatible with them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lookcycle.com/en/us/route/pedales.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Look's web site&lt;/a&gt;, you don't see Delta pedals on there any more, but if you look at the various Keo pedals, they are clearly a different shape to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a quick web search for Look Delta reveals many images, including some on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/exustar-e-pr70-look-delta-pedals-prod24021/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; (Exustar pedals which are compatible with Delta's - I haven't embedded the image here in case there are copyright issues). What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note lastly that even within the &quot;Look Delta&quot; genre, you can buy different cleats. The difference between them is how much your foot is allowed to move whilst in the pedal (known as floating). Red cleats offer 9° float, whilst Black cleats are fixed (0°). The general rule is to go for the more flexible red cleats unless you have a reason to do otherwise. (This applies to spd-sl and keo also, in fact for spd-sl there are three options.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T23:28:36.800" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T23:28:36.800" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-03T12:20:37.297" Score="1" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of upgrading a well loved 1970s steel frame from a downtube shifter system to a modern 'brifter' system.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through this process I've had to look at many disparate sources to get information from all over the internet.  Generally, LBS have been rather sketchy about this - they'd rather sell me a new bike.  I think it would be ideal if we could have one question under which we could address as many of the general problems &amp;amp; solutions that the process throws up, and maybe have a collection of resources that someone who wants to follow this process would be able to refer to for more specific problems.  I'm going to provide an answer myself, once it's established that the question is valid! My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What potential issues will I need to consider when modernizing a pre-1990s steel frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note, I am getting brifters. Answers which say 'you'd be better off staying with downtube shifters' are not helpful in the slightest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastEditorUserId="9031" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T15:23:49.347" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T15:23:49.347" Title="What will I need to consider when modernizing a pre-1990s steel frame?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="21" ClosedDate="2014-07-04T21:27:52.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-03T12:26:38.017" Score="2" ViewCount="18981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to put an Road crank on my MTB, I basically only use it for commuting and I all the time find myself in the highest gear, 42/11...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to exchange my Shimano Deore HT2 crank with an Road-crank (with 50/34 tooth Wickwerks blade) or Cross-crank (with 46/36 tooth Wickwerks blade), are they compatible with the rear freewheel (Shimano 10 speed 11/34) and chain, and is it possible at all, can a Road bottom bracket fit into a MTB frame....???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-I know 34 or 36 tooth might be a little big as a smallest front blade, but I am  from flat Denmark, I´m not going to climb mountains....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bjarke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;, I can see that most people recommend changing just the blades and I guess thát is what I´ll do, can anyone point me to a 44/46/48 tooth blade (which should be enough, plus some sort of an &quot;granny&quot;, I do think I will need a two-blade setup up front, not just a single) which will fit a Shimano 10-speed HT2 4 bolt crank, the Shimano jungle is not for beginners....???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike I will buy is this one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.feltbicycles.com/Sweden/2014/Bikes/mountain-29/nine-series/nine-3.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.feltbicycles.com/Sweden/2014/Bikes/mountain-29/nine-series/nine-3.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; and I hope it will accommodate the higher tooth-count, otherwise I will just need to go with 44 teeth which will probably be fine with regards of gearing, but with regards of wearing out the 11 and 12 in the back it is probably a little low....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike where 42/11 was too little was a 26&quot; and the Felt is a 29&quot; with 38/11 as the highest gearing, without having calculated on it, I think the Felt is a little lighter in the heaviest gearing....&#xA;-In the end I guess 44 is close to plenty....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards of cadense, the really heavy gear is for the (flat on the road) downhill with both the wind and the sun in the back, I do have a little low cadense though, but can´t really get away from it, old habits You know....;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12833" LastEditorUserId="12833" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T11:32:02.873" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T13:10:45.720" Title="MTB with Road crank" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23398" CreationDate="2014-07-03T13:24:48.400" Score="1" ViewCount="3356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of Shimano R500 wheels on my current road bike, but have just upgraded bikes; the new bike comes with the Alex ALX-295 wheelset (they come on a Specialized Roubaix). Lots of the roads have poor surfaces, so I need a set of wheels that is pretty strong. (I have read some stuff about the spokes on the Alex wheels breaking.) Due to the poor roads, I use Slime inner tubes - I got my first puncture after only about 60 miles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new bike has a different (better) cassette on, so if there isn't really any difference between the wheelsets, then I'd prefer to not have to swap it all over! In fact, I would only want to swap them over if there is a reasonable difference; I'm not a very experienced rider (yet!), so if the difference would only be noticeable to someone really good, then I'd prefer to not have to swap it all over! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice as to which I should use would be most appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! =D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T01:22:43.720" Title="Shimano R500 or Alex ALX-295 - Which Are Better?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-03T13:40:12.760" Score="1" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride an early 90s Scott Unitrack CST with the original Shimano Deore drivetrain it came with. Same as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=140522&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. When pedaling, the right pedal has a peculiar feel like a sudden inward jerk at a certain position, roughly when the right crank is parallel to the down tube. This is more noticeable when pedaling lightly. Looking down when pedaling, the right crank appears to stretch or play inward and outward. There is no detectable play when forced with hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm given to think a busted ball bearing in the crankset is responsible, but I would like to get your opinion about the cause and urgency of the issue before I take it to the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12834" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T23:00:23.657" Title="Peculiar feel when pedaling" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23380" CreationDate="2014-07-03T13:54:25.527" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/KISS_principle&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The KISS Principle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anything vital breaks while you're touring and you can't fix it on the spot, you're stranded. You're too far from home to call your mom for a ride. Unless you have a spare for the broken part, your options are some DIY jerry rigging and/or praying that someone with a truck comes by who will carry you and all your stuff to the nearest town. There's less that can go wrong with a rigid fork, so less chance of being stranded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Standard parts are easier to replace and repair&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rack-ready suspension forks are irreplaceable, irrepairable abominations. Ok, that's an exaggeration. But it's definitely harder to get a replacement or get it repaired. Head shock? Only one of the three bike shops in my town sells Cannondale stuff. If you end up in a smaller town with one bike shop (or none) you may be out of luck. If you find yourself limping along to some no-name town in the middle of nowhere, your best hope for repairs is to have standard parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's true that you can find mounting apparatuses (apparatii?) that will allow a rack to mount to a standard suspension fork but they all require additional parts, violating the KISS Principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weight&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In spite of (or perhaps, because of) the abundance of gear that tourists carry, there are weight-weenie tourists. Suspension forks are heavy. Or at least heavier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Efficiency&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason is that a suspension absorbs energy, and rationing ones energy is a primary concern of the long-distance tourist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Physics (supposedly)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first got into touring there was a notion that suspension forks weren't designed to withstand the lateral forces of braking well enough to add weight to the fork. The idea was that the forward force of the bike's weight on the steer tube and the forward weight of the panniers on the lowers would flex the fork and damage it. This seems to have either been overcome or disproven, but old ideas sometimes die hard. This is probably the reason that Giant used such a bizarre contraption on the front of their Expedition AT, to compensate for those forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most people just don't need it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people tour on the road where suspension doesn't really do enough to justify all the other costs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned in the comments, if you're having wrist pains there is most likely a fit/setup issue with your bike. There are any number of possible solutions, all of which would be specific to you and your bike. See your LBS for advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T18:55:16.887" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T18:55:16.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23385" CreationDate="2014-07-03T14:21:30.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on your frame, I have a 1973 Peugeot UO-8 which I replaced the 27inch wheels with 700 28CC and even replaced the handle bars with modern alu bars from MEC. The seat is now a Brooks and because the seat post tubes on french bikes are smaller I had to use a BMX chromoly post. My bottom bracket is a new square one from Velo-Orange instead of the cotter cranks of old. I decided to go with a flip flop hub but it would easily accomodate a 10 speed cassette. I installed modern TekTro brakes to replace the original Maffac whcih where truly appalling. And altthough I am sure there is a way to convert the down tub shifters,  you would be better off sticking with newer shifter at the same location. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I upgraded and converted my steel frame becuase it is so rare that I find a bike that fits nicely and I really wanted a steel frame for commuting. You might just be going to the wrong LBS. I went to two awesome shops in MTL that where quite please to help out with this project bike. I do have to warn you that older parts for French bikes are not cheap. In total it cost me about $300 to convert the bike and I propbably spend another $200-300 a year on it in parts, tires, chains and BB (fixie is murder on the BB).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck and have fun with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12835" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T14:21:30.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23385" CreationDate="2014-07-03T15:22:14.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got the following sorted so far, so here are some answers about the first part of the process for me.  Next up will be installing the groupset.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wheels:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;27 inch wheels are slightly narrower in width, and greater in rim diameter than the closest modern standard, 700c.  In order to fit a modern 700c wheel you will have to worry about two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spacing of the frame will have to be changed.  This can be done at home, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; has a page describing the process here.  Alternately, you can get a LBS to set it for you (potentially more accurately)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need 4mm longer 'arms' on the brakes.  Long drop brakes might be long enough - otherwise &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/tektro-r559-extra-long-drop-caliper-brakes-lock-device/?lang=en&amp;amp;curr=GBP&amp;amp;dest=1&amp;amp;utm_source=pla&amp;amp;utm_medium=base&amp;amp;utm_campaign=uk&amp;amp;kpid=5360493385&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tektro&lt;/a&gt; do some extra long drop brakes.  Sometimes you can file the slit in the arms a little bit, if it's very close.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bottom Bracket:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will want to check what size your frame takes - in my case, British standard seems easy enough to find still.  Some things don't change!  You will want a BB which is compatible with whatever groupset you are putting on the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Handlebars:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some older handlebars won't take modern shifters/brake housings happily.  You can convert from an old style 1 inch quill stem into a modern system with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/profile-quill-to-threadless-stem-converter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; bit of kit if you want to go that way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cable routing:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want a set of cable stops on the downtube, around where your shifters once were.  These might require some additional brazing.  The cable routing around the bottom bracket might also need some work - I got these done by a custom bike builder. It wasn't cheap, but peace of mind that I was getting everything necessary made up for that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T15:22:14.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23236" CreationDate="2014-07-03T18:25:32.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issues getting into my 16 tooth gear but not coming out of it. Turns out that gear had some teeth worn down which made shifting a little sticky. After checking online and talking to a few good LBS the common answer was to swap out the cassette and chain. I had wondered if simply swapping one gear in the cassette would do it and in the end the prevailing answer is that Shimano cassettes work better as a group and by not swapping the whole thing out you are only delaying the inevitable. As for the chain, it just makes sense to put a new chain on a new cassette so that none of the nasties infect the new cassette. This might seem silly and a little OCD but I usually also take the same time to clean the BB and wipe dow the crankset with WD40. this gives my chain a few rides with that nice &quot;new look&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12835" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T18:25:32.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23288" CreationDate="2014-07-03T18:59:16.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have 27inch wheels, and you can still buy tubes, tires and even new wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12835" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T18:59:16.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23380" CreationDate="2014-07-03T20:05:39.043" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mid range touring bikes come with shocks because because mid range consumers will buy them. Department store bikes come with full suspension because people buy them. High end touring bikes don't come with shocks because high end consumers don't see the value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bicycle does not need to be used for how it is classified/designed. &#xA;I use a cyclocross with touring tires for commuting as that is the exact set up I want. &#xA;And I use a touring bike for grocery shopping as it is the exact set up I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a trekking bicycle with shocks and butterfly handles bars works for your touring then great. &#xA;Why would you care what the bike is called? &#xA;It seems that you want to change the definition of touring based on your values. &#xA;Your values and needs of a &quot;touring&quot; bike are not the same as the general consumer. &#xA;You are knowledgeable consumer with specific requirements.&#xA;Pick the bike and components that work for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You infer a shock is issue free because because you have not had any issues. &#xA;A shock is not issue free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A touring bike is optimized for long distance, load, and reliability on paved surfaces. &#xA;A fixed fork and drop handle bars is pretty much accepted as best practice. &#xA;The target consumer of a touring bike does not want comfort of a shock over weight, reliability, pedal efficiency, and load benefits of a fixed fork.&#xA;And you also lose some storage space in the frame triangle with a suspension corrected frame.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure this is what you are looking for but Salsa has a style of bike they call Adventure that kind of sits in between.  The Fargo is suspension corrected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T12:39:25.120" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T12:39:25.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23386" CreationDate="2014-07-03T20:31:14.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but with some caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Road rings are big.&lt;/strong&gt; You might have clearance issues with the chainstays.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom bracket.&lt;/strong&gt; You might need a new bottom bracket to fit the spindle or change the spacing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New chain.&lt;/strong&gt; Bigger rings require more chain (usually).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Front derailleur.&lt;/strong&gt; Derailleurs are meant to handle certain sizes, spacings, and mountings, your current one may not work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the arrangement, there might be more things but these are the top ones that come to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T20:31:14.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23386" CreationDate="2014-07-03T22:07:54.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the chainring and crank clear the stays? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many modern MTB's are designed to only have a maximum chain ring of 44t or so. They are also designed for the relatively wide Q-factor of MTB cranks vs road cranks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you get the front derailler high enough to accommodate the larger chain ring?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching to a single ring in front solves 2 and you can get single rings for your&#xA;crankset up to 50t. 50/34 is still a pretty low gear on the roads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blackspire makes them. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackspire.com/qs/product/83/5948/263228/0/0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.blackspire.com/qs/product/83/5948/263228/0/0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding some spacers to the chainring bolts can help with the clearance issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the chain goes, if the cranks are spaced for 10 spd then you should have no problem. The only real problem occurs when the chainrings are far enough apart that the skinny 10spd chain can get jammed between the chainrings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T22:07:54.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23380" CreationDate="2014-07-03T22:14:12.053" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short and simple... Nobody with the cash to spend on a high end touring bike thinks they are worthwhile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the increasing specialization in the bike market, they only reason they don't exist is nobody will buy them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T22:14:12.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23387" CreationDate="2014-07-04T01:22:43.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spokes on any wheels can break ... really comes down to how well they are built, the weight they have to carry, i.e., carrying more weight than they are designed for and the type of riding they are exposed to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shimano WH-R500 wheels are lower specification wheels and I suspect the Alex ALX-295 are much the same.  That said I believe the Shimano wheels are about 100 grams lighter than the Alex rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally if you are happy on the Shimano wheels you could swap them over, or if you prefer say have the Alex rims checked for trueness at a decent bike shop, but I suspect either way you are not going to change much if at all the bike's overall handling characteristics or &quot;rideability&quot; with changing these wheels around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I rode with Shimano WH RS 10 rims on a Giant CRX 1. These wheels would be similar to the WH-R500 and I did a good job of breaking spokes and cracking the rims until I got a wheel properly built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnMpL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cracked Shimano WH RS 10 Rim&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T01:22:43.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23404" CreationDate="2014-07-04T05:36:26.117" Score="4" ViewCount="1147" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the last 2 months, I rode on my road bike for a few times (about 7 times) a way that is about 60 km (37.282 mi) long. Two days before, when I did this ride, after the midst of it, I started to fill very comfortable regarding the effort that I needed to put on pedaling, even though I started to pedal on the harder gear speed. Almost the hardest on my bike. The ride was beautiful and amazing, I did it in a very good time. Now comes the problem - I don't really think it's a problem, but I want to meet any possible bad thing that can happen if I can do this.&#xA;After I rode, my feet feel a kind of weary, but especially my knees. It's not pain. I'm just weary on my knees. When I sit on chair or bad (before to sleep), I feel very comfortable with my knees, it's a sensation of total relaxing on my knees. I have to underline that I'm not very trained, and this is the majority of time in the last two months that I spent on my bike. Before, I rode only on my little town with my city bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested if anyone experienced this before, and if this is due to the lack of train mostly or if it's due to bad saddle fit. Any other possible issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B. I know I must check for saddle position. Actually I'm searching for the best fit that I can have, but because in my town I don't have a specialist in this area, I have to document myself for getting the best fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12579" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T09:35:33.937" Title="Knee feeling after long ride with road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16993" CreationDate="2014-07-04T05:55:49.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A recent view is that technology was less of a factor vs. sociological factors.&lt;/strong&gt; The main sociological difference between the Penny-farthing and today's bicycle frame is the perspective of safety: the rider wants to feel safe or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the times of Penny-farthing mastering a difficult to ride horse/vehicle was a major feat, and riders wanted to show of their skills. Riding a more difficult vehicle was a wish by riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today's bicycle with the diamond frame mostly offers safety for the driver, by having a good view around the traffic, and a good chance to stop when needed (vs. efficiency, aerodynamics, speed, acceleration, etc., while recumbent and other designs do better in those aspects). Today riders want a bike that offers higher safety, vs. feeling unsafe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modern view of history of technology says about technology development that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead of the &quot;linear model&quot;, there are many other models about how technology develops (starting with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Kuhn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thomas Kuhn&lt;/a&gt;'s book &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Structure_of_Scientific_Revolutions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The structure of scientific revolutions&lt;/a&gt;&quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Technology development is considered to be CONSERVATIVE, ie. it has to be compatible with the network of existing surrounding (ex. the power plug of every machine needs to fit what is available in households), and only small iterations go ahead. Too big steps of innovations usually fade away, as they are not compatible with current needs/technologies. They might came back later, in a different form. For example attempts for mimicking birds using their winds for flying were considered a dead-end for a hundred years, while today micro robots use the same principle. (See the chapter &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.at/books?id=B_Tas3u48f8C&amp;amp;lpg=PA7&amp;amp;ots=VsjuODzOkX&amp;amp;dq=technology%20development%20conservative%20hughes&amp;amp;pg=PR5#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=technology%20development%20conservative%20hughes&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thomas P. Hughes: The evolution of large technological systems&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of research done about bicycle development in History of Technology, mainly because researchers who pioneered these theories came from the Netherlands. The paper published by Bijker (&quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.ca/books?id=IsbmwN8-m1cC&amp;amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;amp;source=gbs_ge_summary_r&amp;amp;cad=0#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;King of the road: the social construction of the safety bicycle.&lt;/a&gt;&quot;) is a major work that introduced the theory of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Social_construction_of_technology&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;social construction of technological systems&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a short summary of Bijker's book at &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycleresearchproject.blogspot.co.at/2013/04/139-wiebe-bijkers-bicycles-bakelites.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the bicycle research project&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=bijker%20king%20of%20the%20road%20the%20social%20construction%20of%20the%20safety%20bicycle%20file%3apdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google search&lt;/a&gt; can give you a pdf of the paper. Note that Bijker's book is not considered &quot;new&quot; anymore, but rather &quot;classic&quot;, and many new research goes beyond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="12749" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T08:28:58.373" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T08:28:58.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23403" CreationDate="2014-07-04T06:40:52.447" Score="5" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have 500€ to buy a second hand bike. How much of that budget shall I keep for repairs and upgrades, and how much shall I spend on the bike itself? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it depends on the condition of the bike, but I was wondering if there is some general wisdom about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When buying a second hand car, the common wisdom says that ~30% of one's budget should be kept for immediate repairs and upgrades. So when someone has 10000€ for a second hand car, wisdom says to buy a car for 7000€, and keep the rest 3000€ for the repairs and upgrades after the buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resources I found had no mention about the expected costs of repairs and upgrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I researched these topics already:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2580/what-should-i-do-to-get-an-older-bike-into-good-condition&quot;&gt;What should I do to get an older bike into good condition?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/743/what-should-i-look-for-when-buying-a-used-bicycle&quot;&gt;What should I look for when buying a used bicycle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13355/how-to-tell-if-a-bike-is-good-before-purchasing&quot;&gt;How to tell if a bike is good before purchasing?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/612/purchasing-a-bike&quot;&gt;Purchasing a bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7701/suggestions-for-budget-mountain-bike-with-opportunities-for-upgrade&quot;&gt;Suggestions for budget mountain bike with opportunities for upgrade&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17573/what-to-look-out-for-in-a-second-hand-bike-buy&quot;&gt;What to look out for in a second hand bike buy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17170/buying-a-used-higher-quality-bike-vs-a-lower-quality-new-bike?rq=1&quot;&gt;Buying a higher quality use bike vs. a lower quality new bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;External resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Buying-used-bikes-for-beginners/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Buying used bikes for beginners&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclorama.net/viewArticle.php?id=342&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Buying a Used Bike 2: Things to Look (Out) For&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0hEfwWg8vY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to buy a used bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.at/search?q=how%20to%20buy%20a%20second%20hand%20bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google search: how to buy a second hand bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2018-04-23T05:50:06.180" Title="Used-bike: How much to reserve for repairs/upgrades of total budget?" Tags="&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20850" CreationDate="2014-07-04T06:42:23.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is probably outdated, but you actually can do it with google maps. You have to create route on your pc copy the link from the browser with the route and send it over to your android (for example you can do it by sending an email to yourself). On your android open said link with google maps app and voila - the route is there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12840" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T06:42:23.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23401" CreationDate="2014-07-04T07:07:57.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For convenience here I've made some assumptions here about the type of bike you're buying, but since you don't say...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were buying a second-hand bike, I would examine the following as soon as I got it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cassette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake/gear cables (conceivable but unlikely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and if any of these showed sufficient wear I would change them. You can get a ballpark estimate of the associated cost from Google, but note that changing the top two and the last requires special tools, so you might need to factor these in as well (or mechanic costs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd have thought all those items would come to a bit less than €100 as a guide, just the parts, with no labour or tools. But you should take this with a pinch of salt because it depends on the specific items you get - you could quite easily blow €100 on a pair of tyres alone if the fancy took you. Similarly you probably wouldn't have to change all of them, at least initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided the bike is in generally good condition, this should be all you need to change in the  short term (first year or so). But of course because it is used, you're taking a bit of a chance that it doesn't have other stuff wrong with it that you'll need to sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T10:15:22.510" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T10:15:22.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23399" CreationDate="2014-07-04T10:42:05.850" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ride further or faster than you're used to, then some weariness in the legs is normal and should pass within a couple of days. I rode my biggest ride to date a couple of weeks ago and when I got home I nearly lost my balance walking around the house as my legs were a bit weaker than I expected. With a couple of days rest they were back to normal, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides rest, what can help your recovery is static stretching (not bouncing or bobbing). Here are some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/135274-knee-pain-stretches/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;suggestions for knee stretches&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have suggested, a higher cadence (therefore a lower gear) may help, even if you can't measure it precisely. I have a knee injury from running, so I change down a gear the moment it gets uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bike fit, trial and error can work well, here's a link to some &lt;a href=&quot;http://audaxing.wordpress.com/2011/03/07/long-distance-ride-bike-fit-tips/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;simple bike-fit tips&lt;/a&gt; which may help you move in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, if discomfort becomes pain you should obviously stop doing what hurts and get advice from a physio, ideally one with cycling expertise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T08:12:47.670" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T08:12:47.670" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23405" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-04T13:44:29.337" Score="7" ViewCount="3075" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago Stages added &lt;a href=&quot;http://support.stagescycling.com/support/articles/1000043213-stages-power-ios-app-firmware-release&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a new feature to their power meter&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;High Speed Data recording added to capture pedaling force (kgf) and torque (Nm) 64 times per second for post ride analysis (.csv format). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I captured part of a short ride with this, which produced data like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Timestamp, kgf, Nm&#xA;&quot;2014-06-26 19:21:25.025&quot;,,&#xA;46441, 7.3, 12.2&#xA;46473, 7.5, 12.6&#xA;46505, 7.9, 13.1&#xA;46537, -1.7, -2.8&#xA;46569, -2.2, -3.7&#xA;46601, -3.5, -5.8&#xA;46633, -4.0, -6.7&#xA;46665, -4.1, -6.8&#xA;46697, -4.2, -7.0&#xA;46729, -5.6, -9.3&#xA;46761, -6.1, -10.2&#xA;46793, -6.8, -11.4&#xA;46825, -7.1, -11.8&#xA;46857, -4.8, -8.0&#xA;46889, -1.1, -1.9&#xA;46921, -6.4, -10.7&#xA;46953, -10.7, -17.9&#xA;46985, -9.0, -15.1&#xA;47017, -5.7, -9.4&#xA;47049, -6.7, -11.2&#xA;47081, -6.8, -11.4&#xA;47113, -6.8, -11.4&#xA;47145, -7.3, -12.1&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/dbr/39f3b1d3d1e48c1c69a0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the complete file file&lt;/a&gt;, captured with firmware v2.051)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could well be mistaken, but the data seems either useless or broken to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the kgf column is almost exactly equal to the Nm multiplied by 0.6, so both only measuring the torque, not the pedal velocity.. so you cannot recalculate wattage..?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no obvious way to tell the angle of the pedal.. so you cannot reliably visualise torque throughout the pedal stroke..?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any interesting analysis that can be done with this data? Searching only finds &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2013/09/cycling-metrics-streaming.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;articles like this&lt;/a&gt; and various news items on the release&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4353" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T09:53:11.103" Title="Analysis of Stages high-speed data" Tags="&lt;power&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23362" CreationDate="2014-07-04T14:48:55.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of the other answers deal with the OPs desire to keep the bike inside the car, i.e. not on a rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put the bike in the car, you have to take off at least one of the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedro sells a &quot;chain keeper&quot; which is designed to keep the chain on or near the derailleur when the rear wheel is off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LaDOn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pedro&amp;#39;s chain keeper&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vJUaF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should help you considerably (along with old towels and maybe a moving blanket) to put the bike cleanly in the car with the rear wheel off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T17:19:20.163" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T17:19:20.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12992" CreationDate="2014-07-04T14:59:30.647" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;With MTB tires, there's really no issue in drilling out the valve hole to a larger size since the rims are so wide to begin with.  You can do it yourself with a drill bit (3/8&quot; or 10mm) or have your LBS do it. Sanding or reaming the hole afterwards is important, as well as making sure there aren't any sharp metal bits floating around afterwards that might puncture your tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ever want to go back again (after having blown through your 10-pack of schraders), you'll find that you have the opposite problem -- the hole is now too large and the presta valve will fit loosely. You can get &quot;presta schrader rim adapters&quot; that fill in this gap and prevent the tube from bulging through or the valve rattling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;search term: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=schrader+presta+rim+adapter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=schrader+presta+rim+adapter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uk85C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rim adapters&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m5vqB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rim adapter on valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T14:48:18.790" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T14:48:18.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20850" CreationDate="2014-07-04T15:17:22.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have yet another option that uses GoogleMaps or Google Earth in the route designing phase, but another app in the Android.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Use Wikiloc for that (Just search the term &quot;Wikiloc&quot;). Wikiloc is a service for tracking sport routes and shraring them. You install the app in your phone for tracking and navigating. You can upload the routes that you record or keep them localy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to import a route that was designed in other application, like Google Earth, just save the path as a .gpx file and copy it to your Android's device storage, then use your device's file browser to open the file. If Wikiloc is the default app for opening GPX files, it will automatically import the track, and allow you to follow it later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used it for mountain biking, and it has allowed me to follow routes traced by somebody else. I just have to import them into my phone. Remember tracks are saved with a tag that indicates the sport on wich the route was recorded. In your case you would use &quot;Cycling Transport&quot; (There are also &quot;Cycling&quot; meant for Road Cycling and &quot;Mountain Biking&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have your account and trace (or upload?) your first route, Wikiloc will send a notification to your email when other people post routes that that are close to yours, and that is why I recommend it. You can also browse their website for routes previously uploaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides Wikiloc I use another app called Endomondo to keep a record of my rides and commutes. It is also sports based but oriented to training, so it saves a history that you can review later to analyze your performance or simply have an online registry of how much you have ridden, walked, ran, etc. A couple of times I have copied a path from Endomondo to Wikiloc by using the method described above, I just export a gpx file from the Endomondo's web site and open it with Wikiloc. (If done from the phone, use a browser, I haven't yet foud a way of exporting the gpx from within the app).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikiloc.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wikiloc.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.endomondo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.endomondo.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T15:17:22.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23405" CreationDate="2014-07-04T18:10:27.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree both are measuring torque/force.  That is the ratio you would get with 170 mm cranks.  1 kgf = 9.80665 newtons.   7.3 * 9.80665 * 170 / 1000 = 12.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But without pedal angle I agree you cannot calculate work or power (wattage).  And this appears to be just one pedal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stagescycling.com/stagespower-tech-specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stagespower-tech-specs&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;P=2∗((Fave∗9.8∗L)∗(R∗.1047))&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  From there, the rest of the equation is standard physics. The average&#xA;  force per revolution (Fave) is measured by the strain gauges in&#xA;  kilograms and then converted to torque in Nm (Newton Meters) by&#xA;  multiplying it by the crank length (L) in meters and the gravitational&#xA;  constant (9.8m/s^2). Finally it is multiplied by the crank RPM which&#xA;  is converted to radians per second to derive the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I don't understand the number and magnitude of the negative numbers. Even when it looks like you were in a cadence your negative were 1/3 the positive.  And in a stretch you have negative that are some on the biggest numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-06T14:37:19.600" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T14:37:19.600" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23236" CreationDate="2014-07-04T20:14:42.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rear derailleur moves two ways: the tension from the shifter cable will pull it one way (usually towards the larger rear cogs) and spring tension within the derailleur will pull it back when you shift down into the smaller cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the spring tension is not strong enough to overcome the cable tension / resistance when you're shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had to replace other rusty parts, you can try oiling or just replacing the derailleur cable and housing.  If those are rusty or sticky, then your derailleur spring has to pull a lot harder to get things to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also had shifting troubles when the derailleur hanger is bent, causing the mechanism to swing the wrong way when I was shifting.  You can get a bike shop to check / straighten the hanger, or if you don't have a hanger (claw type derailleur) you can try to do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="536" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T20:14:42.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23386" CreationDate="2014-07-04T21:21:00.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;(As requested, turned comment into answer.)  - This question pops up quite often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most often the riders cadence is too low. Presuming 26&quot; wheels with 2&quot; tires, 42/11 at a cadence of 80 is 38km/h, at 100 its 47km/h. What speeds are you riding at? If you are maintaining these speeds on a solo commute on a MTB, you should get in touch with your national cycling body ASAP, I am certain you will be invited onto a development squad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a first step measure how fast you are pedaling. No need to get a cadence computer, although it would be easier, as counting 100 in 1 minute is not all that easy. At your cruising speed, count your pedal stokes over 10 or 15 seconds and work out your cadence. If it is above 80 go ahead and make the changes to the bike (and make that phone call). If its below 70, improving riding technique would far be more beneficial (and probably more cost effective) than increasing gear-inches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't help a lot with technique, mine's awful:), but a few ideas would be to read up and watch videos on the net, ask a (road) cycling mate, or join a club or pay for some coaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question - &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1912&quot;&gt;How can I improve my pedal stroke?&lt;/a&gt; might provide some useful tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T13:10:45.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-04T21:40:20.140" Score="1" ViewCount="2230" Body="&lt;p&gt;To give an example of what I'm trying to understand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To accelerate to a given speed or maintain that speed with a tyre pressure of e.g. 100PSI requires a certain amount of energy. If that amount of energy is held constant, and the tyre pressure is dropped to e.g. 80PSI, how much lighter would my bike need to be to attain / maintain that speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What prompts my question is the observation that many cyclists who commute have under-inflated tires, yet have paid a premium for aluminium over steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12848" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T20:31:29.910" Title="What is the relationship between tyre pressure and weight?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-04T21:44:15.950" Score="0" ViewCount="880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had installed my front derailleur and was adjusting the high/low when I noticed my rear derailleur was hitting the spokes of my wheel. Suddenly, I saw a screw pop out and then my derailleur popped into a very contorted position and I had to take it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The below photo shows the underside of the derailleur ( Sram x-3) to the right of the place where it connects to the frame is the broken plastic where the screw came from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uEt4s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened, and what does this screw do? Exactly how did I break my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12709" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T22:00:32.433" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T01:41:12.533" Title="What exactly happened to my rear derailleur?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-04T22:00:46.190" Score="3" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not clear on why tire pressure decreases over time. I understand that air escapes through the tube. Possibly some leaks through the valve too? In any case, do tire / tube / valve combinations exist that will maintain a constant pressure over time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt;: From reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1147/how-long-should-a-road-tyre-hold-its-pressure?rq=1&quot;&gt;How long should a road tyre hold its pressure?&lt;/a&gt; I learn that air leaks through the tube material. I've changed the title in response - it originally applied to values only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12848" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T22:22:43.700" Title="Do tire / tube / valve combinations that don't leak air exist?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23413" CreationDate="2014-07-04T22:10:36.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with optimal pressure versus weight.  The minimum and maximum pressure are on the sidewall - never exceed that range.  Each tire manufacture will typically provide guidelines for where in the that range based on weight and conditions. This is a chart from Michelin.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O9WIL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Michelin Recommended Road Tire Air Pressure Guide&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In this chart looking at 700X25c going from about 174 to 128 for a difference of 46 lbs. &#xA;That is more than the bike weighs.  Running a bicycle 20 psi under pressure is significant. Now those two optimal points do not necessarily have the same rolling resistance.  The lighter rider would probably have an advantage - but lets call it even in this.  Clearly a 200 lb rider at maximum pressure is going to have more rolling resistance than 100 lb rider at minimum pressure.  And touring tires and kids tires are is going to have a different weight range associated with the psi range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some links&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rolling_resistance#narrow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rolling Resistance&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On level ground wind resistance exceeds rolling resistance at about 18&#xA;  mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/inflation_pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inflation Pressure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have several bikes and don't have the pressure memorized.  And with my old eyes it is hard to find the pressure.  I made a table and taped it to my pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And anymore aluminum is not necessarily a premium over steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-05T20:31:29.910" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T20:31:29.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23415" CreationDate="2014-07-04T22:17:42.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You assume the whole leak is the valve.  Rubber is not air tight.  Most of the leak is through the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly can create a near airtight valve.  And with enough rubber a near air tight tube.  But it would be heavy.  Just pump your tires once a week.  I see the link said pump daily.  OK, at least once a week.  On my road bike I pump before every ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T22:22:43.700" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T22:22:43.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23413" CreationDate="2014-07-04T22:20:54.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not about energy to accelerate the bike to speed, but the energy to keep it there. For bicycles the kinetic energy is a small part of the total power output of the rider (typically under 10m/s = 36km/hour and 100kg, and e=1/2 m v² = .5 * 100 * 10² = 5000J or watt-seconds. So a casual rider putting out 250W could reach 36kph in 20 seconds, assuming no friction)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant factor is rolling resistance, not weight. On a flat surface there's a more or less &lt;a href=&quot;http://triathlete-europe.competitor.com/2011/05/03/facts-figures-myths-optimum-tyre-pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;parabolic relationship&lt;/a&gt; between tyre pressure and rolling resistance. The region you're talking about is the low side of the curve, where more pressure in the tyre gives lower rolling resistance. The losses here are mostly from deforming the tyre, so riding underinflated is costing you money in increased tyre wear as well as time through riding slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a relationship between total weight and optimum tyre pressure. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vittoria.com/tech/recom-tyre-pressure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vittoria have an online calculator&lt;/a&gt; and there's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pressure-calculator.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;simpler one here&lt;/a&gt; with a link to the papers it's based on. Basically, more weight means more pressure and it's not a linear relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To answer your question&lt;/strong&gt;, then: assume we're in a linear part of the curve just for simplicity{1}, with 80/100 of the pressure you need 80/100 the total weight. Assuming an 90kg rider with a 10kg bike = 100kg total at 100psi, that means you'd need a -10kg bike to keep the same rolling resistance at 80psi (90kg rider -10kg bike = 80kg total). Or alternatively, starting with a 90kg+10kg at 80psi bike, you could carry an extra 25kg at 100psi and have the same rolling resistance (100kg * 100 / 80 = 125kg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From experience though, increased tyre wear is not a big factor. At one stage I was only riding about 8-9km each way to work so I dropped the tyre pressure on my slick tyre MTB to compensate. Tyre lifetime was still determined by tread wear and didn't seem to drop - it definitely wasn't halved, for example. Bike handling was compromised a bit and I did get more punctures (n~3, though)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{1} this is obviously not true, but it makes the maths possible. The real curve is very complex and specific to a particular tyre. It's also affected by road surface and riding style, among other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T22:26:22.620" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T22:26:22.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-05T07:55:21.833" Score="2" ViewCount="2239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a  21 speed bicycle,the problem is I'm unable to shift the chain to the smallest derailleur(rear)...the shifters are thumb press type&#xA;there's no problem in pressing the shifter...when shifting to the toughest gear the chain shifts up to second smallest derailleur(rear)..when i press the shifter it's moving but the chain is unable to catch the smallest one...can't figure out the problem :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12854" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T16:24:29.323" Title="problem in gear shifting" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23420" CreationDate="2014-07-05T08:02:36.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you need to adjust your rear derailleur - the cable may have slipped a bit and have insufficient cable tension, or if you recently had a crash, you may have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bent your derailleur&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to learn how to adjust your derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T08:02:36.767" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-05T10:13:36.157" Score="1" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone recommend a chain guide/guard/tensioner that will be mountable to a 2011 Giant Reign 2 which has Shimano Press Fit and 3-ring crankset? The best I could find is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kore Chain Reactor - available at ebay.co.uk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cz/en/brand-x-chain-tensioner/rp-prod10137&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brand-X Chain Tensioner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bionicon c.guide 2 - reported as not very durable (breaks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.c-guide.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bionicon c.guide eco&lt;/a&gt; - hopefully more durable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need something that ships to European Union (Czech Rep.). Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7433" LastEditorUserId="7433" LastEditDate="2014-07-05T10:54:29.187" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T10:48:40.413" Title="Chain guide/tensioner for 2011 Giant Reign 2 (Press Fit)" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;tension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24017" CreationDate="2014-07-05T19:24:58.570" Score="1" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a Campagnolo hood like the one in the photos below. Will the newer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/campagnolo-ergopower-replacement-hoods/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ErgoPower hoods&lt;/a&gt; fit? If not, what should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/93Hee.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0AaJ8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvDJT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NSLhX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12858" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T20:01:23.057" Title="Vintage Campagnolo hood" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-05T21:53:37.673" Score="2" ViewCount="1951" Body="&lt;p&gt;I repaired a puncture in the back wheel of my bicycle and had some trouble re-attaching the wheel to my bike. I finally did it but now the chain makes a terrible crunching noise when I pedal forward, apart from when I'm in the first gear. I don't know what I've done! Everything looks like it's been put back correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;: Help!  What have I done wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12862" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T21:36:41.817" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T21:36:41.817" Title="Crunching/grinding chain noise" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-05T22:19:05.190" Score="9" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sustained a knee injury about a year ago and it's looking like I won't be biking anytime soon.  I thought that a good alternative would be to get into hand cycling.  I am having a hard time finding information on purchasing a hand bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give information about my situation:  I am still able to walk.  So, I need a bike that would work for someone with legs.  When I was able to cycle, I was biking 100 to 150 miles per week (occasionally more) and averaging about 18 mph.  My rides would range from 20 miles up to a century.  I see no reason why I wouldn't get into hand cycling enough to want to get up to that level again.  Does anyone have any advice, help, or resources to offer to help me find a proper bike?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2528" LastEditorUserId="1939" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T13:47:34.167" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T13:47:34.167" Title="How To Get Started With Hand Cycling" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;advice&gt;&lt;handcycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23024" CreationDate="2014-07-06T06:14:44.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're measuring on downhills, the Revolt will roll better because it weighs more, not despite it. While objects of different mass will free-fall at the same rate (all else being equal), the mechanics of coasting are different due to the effect of air resistance. A great explanation is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/eng99/eng99681.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are better ways than roll to measure a bike's efficiency--like given the same energy input, same speed, and same wind profile (for the rider at least), which one goes farther on a flat surface? Or, given the same energy expenditure and the same flat distance, which one arrives first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're concerned with efficiency, hunching over a bit more for aerodynamics will have much more of an effect than minor differences in rolling resistance, or slight differences in the weight of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7400" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T06:14:44.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23436" CreationDate="2014-07-06T08:55:57.587" Score="4" ViewCount="6144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering a hybrid commuter bike, in particular I like Specialized Sirrus Elite Disc. This model however does not sport a carbon fiber fork. Only the more expensive model does, which I do not have budget for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another candidate would be Trek Crossrip, which does have carbon fork. Should I make getting carbon fork a priority, will it make a real difference on my ~13 km commute? I sometimes do ride over surfaces like this, that's why I'm concerned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tvSpD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12864" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T14:29:02.783" Title="Will carbon fork make a huge difference when commuting?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23620" CreationDate="2014-07-06T09:25:18.163" Score="5" ViewCount="2456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just took home a shiny Van Nicholas Amazon frame. The bike shop provided me with some copper grease and told me to apply it on the bottom bracket, otherwise the frame would suffer from &quot;cold bonding&quot; over the years. Looking further in to it, I read that is best to apply it on every metal to titanium contact. I want to keep this frame for life, so I think this is important enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: does that go as well for :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the length of the seatpost that sits in the frame ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seat clamp ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottle cage bosses ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rear derailleur ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front derailleur clamp ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, should I apply it wealthy or just a thin coat is enough ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: here is how I used the copper grease :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I2PYD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;seatpost itself and the clamp also&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NghpO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom bracket&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PYvep.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front derailleur clamp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12865" LastEditorUserId="12865" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T10:58:53.223" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T10:58:53.223" Title="Titanium frame: using copper grease" Tags="&lt;titanium&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23438" CreationDate="2014-07-06T10:12:53.550" Score="4" ViewCount="30368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering a faster bike to replace my XC for commuting. I am thinking hybrid/cross/road bike with wider tires. My question is whether 28mm tires are enough or if I should go with 32mm like Trek touts for their CrossRip. I won't be riding gravel roads or other heavier terrain too much, but I will need to jump to/from curbs from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I live I often need to ride over cobblestones and tram tracks, like this, so safety is very important:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3jO6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12864" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T13:34:20.053" Title="Are 32mm tires ideal for a fast commuter bike?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23431" CreationDate="2014-07-06T10:26:43.717" Score="2" ViewCount="1792" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any nice looking and lightweight pedals meant to be used with or without SPD shoes? Would be nice to be able to ride even without my special shoes, but not if such pedals look bulky and heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12864" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T12:52:34.983" Title="Recommendation for lightweight pedals for use with SPD or without" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-07-07T13:22:32.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23430" CreationDate="2014-07-06T11:08:57.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano make several models of pedals with SPD one side, and flat on the other. So they can be used with SPD shoes or normal shoes.&#xA;Options include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;PD-A530&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aeKlM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PD-A530 pedals&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are designed for road/touring bikes, so are fairly slim, with a small metal platform. (Not to be confused with the PD-A520, which are one-sided SPD pedals, without a flat platform). Personally I use these, they work pretty well, with either SPD shoes or non-SPD shoes.&#xA;Weight: 383g (pair)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;PD-T780&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXGMm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PD-T780 pedal&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Designed for trekking or commuting bikes, they have a larger plastic platform. So they look a bit bulkier, but are not actually much heavier. They have reflectors built in, which is useful if that is a legal requirement where you are.&#xA;Weight: 392g (pair)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;PD-M324&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uDA5N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PD-M324 pedals&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An older model, with a large metal platform, so a bit heavier. They have the option of adding reflectors or toeclips. Weight: 533g (pair)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T11:08:57.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23429" CreationDate="2014-07-06T12:26:05.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have had a Trek FX 7.2 for 6 years. Came with 35's. Replaced with 32's. Work very well for pavement. If you are doing any curb jumping or cobblestone, I would not suggest the 28's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking at a Trek hybrid (love mine), consider a carbon fork model. Mine is all metal and I feel the vibrations in my forearms. That is the ONLY bad thing I have to say about the bike and it is not enough to replace it at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12866" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T12:26:05.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23430" CreationDate="2014-07-06T12:52:34.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another vote for the PD-A530. In my case I have these on the hybrid and PD-A520's on the Cannondale road bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both pairs are adjusted so that they feel the same so the muscle memory on both bikes is the same. In a panic stop, I don't want to have to remember which bike I am on to get out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12866" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T12:52:34.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23429" CreationDate="2014-07-06T13:42:53.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the title alone 32mm tires are not ideal for fast commuter bike.  But that picture is some harsh conditions and you state safety is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that picture and the pictures you had on the fork question I would go 32mm or even 35mm.  A 35mm is not not going to be as fast but it should be softer and have more grip.  And also which type of tire.  A hard tire maximized for durability and puncture resistance is not the way to go as it is harsh and heavy.  Look for a softer tire that will take a broader ranges of pressure.  Not a race tire but a lighter touring or city tire.  Unless you are over like 170 lbs then run it at less than maximum pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mattnz bring up a good point on total commute time.  A flat brings down the average and so does rain.  A larger tire is more resistant to pinch flats.  I happen to think a larger tire is less susceptible to puncture flats but not everyone agrees so let's leave that out. That route does not look it has a lot of thorns or glass so don't go with THE most puncture resistant like a Marathon Plus HS as a 622x32 weighs 810 grams and has poor rolling resistance. You can get tire with some puncture protection and good rolling resistance at 500 grams.  An under inflated tire has poor rolling resistance - check pressure regularly regardless of size.  Keep you bike maintained in general - a broken chain kills an average.  In dry conditions and low traffic a 28mm is going to be fastest.  A 32mm is going to be more durable and nearly as fast.  On the ruff stuff a 32mm probably faster.  A 35mm is going to be slower on the smooth stuff but I think faster on those bricks.  Now mix in some rain.  Those bricks looks slick in rain.  That is where I go 35mm and bring the pressure down a bit.  You also have an indirect factor on safely with a smaller tire in if your head is down to pick a line you are not looking up at the bigger picture.  The other part is how long a commute.  If it is short and you can hump it out is different then long enough that you need to conserve energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And something else to consider is putting some 35mm touring tires on your XC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't pick the bike just for the tires.  You can changes the tires.  Pick a bike that will take up to 35mm.  Since you already have a mtn bike with flat bars then consider more of a cross style with drop bars for a more of a range of bicycles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T16:11:49.453" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T16:11:49.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23427" CreationDate="2014-07-06T14:29:02.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much difference in ride from carbon to Cr-Mo.  Over 13km not much of a factor. The carbon is going to be lighter, more expensive, and less durable.  Same bike on a budget I would go Cr-Mo.  You list two different styles of bikes and a purebred road bike in a comment.  Pick the style of bike first.  I don't think purebred road bike is the right bike for that picture.  I personally think drop bars are more efficient and comfortable for paved commuting. And on a budget used might be more cost effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T14:29:02.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23526" CreationDate="2014-07-06T14:31:00.690" Score="2" ViewCount="6576" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many ebay and other online vendors advertise the long-reach Shimano BR-650 brakes as being &quot;Ultegra&quot; series. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, looking at them they don't seem like they are top-of the line or really all that different in manufacture from 105-line Shimano brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes themselves don't seem to say Ultegra on them anywhere but I haven't seen a box for them. Anyone know why they are listed as Ultegra?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: and if they aren't, what series are they? Deores? Altimas? OEMs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CvMIm.png&quot; alt=&quot;ebay listing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-07-06T15:57:35.523" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T05:08:51.270" Title="Are the Shimano BR650 brakes really Ultegra spec?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23429" CreationDate="2014-07-06T14:40:30.310" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute on two bicycles: &#xA;— a road bike, with 25mm tire up front and a 28mm back.&#xA;— a custom commuter bike, with 32mm up front, 35mm back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend you go with the 32mm tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 28mm tires I've used are good for commuting (I think the 25mm I have is too small — I have to give it too much attention when crossing curb lines and such).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, 32mm tires offer a lot more protection in urban environments. I ride suburban roads (25mm is fine for those) into an urban environment, and then I go into a college campus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is on campus where the 25mm tires get dicey. There are many different surfaces on campus, and each change creates an edge — It is those edges that will get you, either trip you up or cause a pinch flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 28mm tire does OK, but a 32mm tire handles these conditions much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some 32mm tires are heavy, some are lighter weight. For what you hope to do — go fast — search around for lighter weight tires (Panaracer might be a good place to start).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy the fatties!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12867" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T14:40:30.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23437" CreationDate="2014-07-06T15:37:56.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, these brakes have nothing to do with Ultegra. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of unscrupulous Ebay sellers put unrelated keywords into the title to get more search hits. It's against Ebay rules, but it's pretty widespread, unfortunately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T15:37:56.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2244" CreationDate="2014-07-06T15:39:03.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I followed the advice of leaving the plastic film on. After a few days the tire went flat again. Inspection revealed that the tube was puckered around the patch because the plastic film does not stretch in the same way as the tube and the patch. The new leak was coming from under the patch.  Therefore from now on I am going to try to take the plastic off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12869" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T15:39:03.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21614" CreationDate="2014-07-06T21:39:15.867" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on a lot of factors such as the rotor and pad make etc. The rotor has memory, left from the remains of pad material over time. What you can do is sand down the rotor surface lightly with medium grade sandpaper and then bed in the new pads as per the manufacturers instructions. Usually 10-20 hard stops without skidding. This will help avoid squealing etc as much as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12871" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T21:39:15.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6669" CreationDate="2014-07-06T21:44:43.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had recent experience of glazed Shimano resin XT pads. I can't really tell how the pads got in that state as my use of the bike is pretty standard. I sanded the surface with medium grade paper and rebedded the pads which has restored them well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's only worth doing if you notice a loss in braking power and feel. Otherwise you are just wasting pad material and needing to bed the pads each time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12871" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T21:44:43.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21330" CreationDate="2014-07-06T21:58:29.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The accepted answer states drag does not scale with mass.  Which is true.  But drag does scale with frontal area.  It is fair to assume the two frames are made of the same material therefore the larger frame has a larger frontal area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than compare balloon and soccer ball of the same size a more appropriate comparison is two rocks of the same density but different sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terminal velocity is when the force of gravity equals the drag&lt;br&gt;&#xA;See this link for the calculation of terminal velocity&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terminal_velocity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Terminal velocity&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the equation once you take out the constants&lt;br&gt;&#xA;vterminal is proportional to square root (mass / area)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;vterminal is proportional to square root (r cubed / r squared)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;vterminal is proportional to square root (r)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at constant density if you double r the terminal velocity increases by 1.414&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Double r is eight times the mass for only 1.414 the terminal velocity.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drag proportional to v squared is the real drag (pun intended)   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now lets pretend you could double your mass and keep the same area&lt;br&gt;&#xA;vterminal is proportional to square root (mass / area)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;vterminal is proportional to square root (mass / constant)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;vterminal is proportional to square root (mass)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If everything was constant (including your area and rolling resistance)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you increased mass by 2 you would increase terminal velocity by 1.414&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you increased mass by 4 you increase terminal velocity by 2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rolling resistance is not constant so it would be less than that 1.414 and 2  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let say 180 lb rider and add 20 lbs of lead to the frame - that is only 5% straight down hill&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On a 10 grade that is only 0.846% - 40 mph versus 40.43 mph (without accounting for rolling resistance).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even climbing bikes are designed to be light.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Basically up the hill you pay for all the weight and down the hill you only get credit for the square root of the weight.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Drag proportional to v squared is the real drag   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T21:58:29.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23437" CreationDate="2014-07-06T23:46:38.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually I think you will find they are Ultegra, circa something like 2009.  Since the technology trickles down you will find that they look like modern 105's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the CRC product listings for examples of both the modern Ultegra and the old BR-650.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brakes?f=2259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brakes?f=2259&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: the 2009 is a guess based on comments/reviews found online about that model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T23:46:38.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8165" CreationDate="2014-07-07T01:16:50.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These 38/50/60/88 numbers are the 'depth' of the wheel's aerodynamic rim, in millimeters. Let's take 38 for example. This means that from where the tire meets the wheel, the rim extends an additional 38 millimeters towards the hub. When you see 88, that means the rim extends 88 millimeters from the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does that matter? One of the biggest benefits of carbon wheels is the aerodynamics. They play a major role in how fast, and how efficiently a cyclist can ride. Think back to when you were on a ride with your buddies, and drafted behind another rider. It's much easier to keep up with them, because of the better aerodynamics when you are drafting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your spinning wheels are the biggest source of slow aerodynamic turbulence. To improve this, we build wheels with aerodynamic advantage as a top priority. The way we do this is to increase the 'depth' of the rim. The deeper the rim, the more aerodynamic the wheel will be and the more efficiently and faster you'll be able to cut through the wind. An 88mm deep rim is more aerodynamic than a 38mm rim, and will be faster in situations where aerodynamics are very important, like long fast solo riding and triathlons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would anyone choose 38mm rims, if 88mm rims are more aerodynamic? The more a wheel becomes aerodynamic for going forward, the more it can be negatively affected by cross-winds, or winds coming from the side. Let's imagine you are riding with an 88mm deep front and rear rim. You will be able to go very fast because of the aerodynamics of deep wheels, but if a gust of wind comes from the side, that wind will push sideways against the large rims and push the whole bike sideways. This isn't such a big deal if you're riding alone, such as in a triathlon, but if you are riding in a group of cyclists, this sideways push could cause an impact with other riders, or at the very least it would require extra concentration from you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the solution? A wheel with a 'shallower' rim depth, like a 38mm, will be less affected by crosswinds, but will also have less aerodynamic advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that wasn't enough, you must also consider weight. A 38mm deep wheel will be lighter than an 88mm deep one, because less carbon is used. A lighter wheel will accelerate faster and will be much easier to ride up hills. This means that if you are sprinting and hill climbing a lot, a shallower rim, like a 38 will be best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do I see some riders with different front and rear wheels? Due to the fact that the front wheel can turn for steering, its more susceptible to cross-wind interference. The rear wheel is fixed in a straight line with the bike, so if a cross-wind hits it, the impact on the bike won't be as much. This means that you can use a deeper rim on your rear wheel without impacting handling as much as that same rim would affect the front wheel.  Wheelsets such as the 38-50 to take advantage of this fact. This wheelset uses a 38mm front rim, and a 50mm rear rim. This way you can get more aerodynamic advantage without sacrificing as much stability in windy conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I choose? This is the most difficult choice for riders looking to purchase new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.x-carbonbike.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carbon bicycle wheels&lt;/a&gt;. You must think about the situations you ride in. If you ride mostly hills you will want to choose a 38mm wheelset, if you are an all around rider choose a 50mm wheelset, if you are an all around rider looking for more aerodynamic advantage choose a 60mm wheelset, and if you are a solo rider, or a triathlete choose an 88mm wheelset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11487" LastEditorUserId="11487" LastEditDate="2014-07-08T01:20:24.507" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T01:20:24.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21614" CreationDate="2014-07-07T02:48:18.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'll need to sand them.  I would just change the pads and then go out for a ride on a borderline muddy day and splash through all the puddles you can find.  You'll get grit on your rotors, which will accelerate the wear-in process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to sand them, be very careful.  Everything I've ever been taught has been that you don't want to sand rotors, because it's very hard to sand in a circumferential direction (sanding as if the rotor were spinning and the sandpaper were still), which is the direction the rotors will be abraded during use.  If you sand radially (moving the paper away from and towards the center of the rotor) you may run in to problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T02:48:18.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23450" CreationDate="2014-07-07T03:59:30.280" Score="0" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased an Aventon Mataro (&lt;a href=&quot;http://aventonbikes.com/track/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://aventonbikes.com/track/&lt;/a&gt;) frame and a 3T Funda Pro with tapered fork (1 1/4' - 1 1/8' 1.25 ). I've been trying to figure out which headset I need to fit the fork to my frame. I am still fairly new, and looking at Cane Creek's page of all the headsets is confusing me even more. Can someone point me in the right direction or tell me what I need to look for in the specs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12872" LastEditorUserId="12872" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T04:05:52.040" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T08:24:28.550" Title="Help with pairing the right headset to a new 3T fork" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23383" CreationDate="2014-07-07T06:53:06.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually the &lt;code&gt;Look Delta&lt;/code&gt; are the oldest &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lookcycle.com/de/de.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LOOK&lt;/a&gt; System i could buy in any shop.&#xA;None of the shop owners/employees knew any other older system before keo.&#xA;And the Deltas worked for all the old LOOK Pedals i had (&lt;em&gt;i have 6 different old LOOK Pedals&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Took them for a tiny spin (~40km) and had no problems whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Got an E-Mail from a brand manager for LOOK who wrote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;keo cleats are NOT compatible with these old Look pedals. You will&#xA;  need the Look Delta cleats which are available either in black (no&#xA;  movement) or red (9° movement).&#xA;  [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4333" LastEditorUserId="4333" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T08:56:35.213" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T08:56:35.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23448" CreationDate="2014-07-07T08:24:28.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure the inner diameter of the headtube, both upper and lower. These are the key measures in combination with the fork dimensions. You probably want to confirm that the angle of the inner chamfer angles are 45 degrees (and not 36) as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have those measurements you can start searching. Note that it says &quot;integrated&quot; (= IS) on the Aventon page, which is also a key. It seems to me that there is a risk that you can not fit a tapered fork straightforwardly into your steering tube though, but Cane Creek can probably help you out &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18833/how-can-i-fit-a-tapered-fork-to-a-1-1-8-semi-integrated-zero-stack-head-tube&quot;&gt;there&lt;/a&gt;. However, that depends entirely on the measures you obtain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10374" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T08:24:28.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23405" CreationDate="2014-07-07T09:07:03.523" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The raw pedal force or torque data are difficult to work with but you can extract some information from them. First, note that Stages mounts the strain gages (or gauges) permanently to the crank, so the crank length is constant and they know what it is; that means that there is a one-to-one relationship between the kgf and torque columns. In this case, it appears from the given kgf and Nm data that your left crank is 170mm long. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stages say the data are sent at 64 Hz but note that the timestamps are not all equally-spaced; there are some gaps in the timestamps. In any event, to make things simple, here is a plot of the first 128 kgf samples from your data set (if the data density were truly 64 Hz, these first 128 samples would represent exactly 2 seconds of data): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBtxX.png&quot; alt=&quot;first 128 samples of force data&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The data are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; stamped with the crank position or crank angle but all is not lost: we can calculate the elapsed time between the peaks of the data. For those same interpeak intervals we can calculate the mean force or mean torque. Dividing the mean torque (in Nm) over each revolution of the cranks by the elapsed time over each crank revolution (in seconds) gives us the average power over each revolution in watts, since a Nm/s is a watt. Note that this will differ from the data usually reported since that is power over a second of time rather than power over a crank revolution. However, note that this is exactly how most power meters currently on the market calculate power: they average torque over a complete crank revolution, then divide it by the elapsed time for a revolution. Most (but not all) power meters currently on the market use a reed switch to determine when the crank passes by a fixed point. Thus, they know the elapsed time between closings of the reed switch and the position of the crank only once per revolution. In addition, although most power meters transmit data to the receiving head unit either once per second or sometimes at a nominal 4 Hz, they generally report the average power over the last completed crank revolution before the scheduled data transmission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do we know that this is a valid approach? Below is a plot of torque and crank angle from &lt;a href=&quot;http://isbweb.org/data/kautz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kautz's classic study of pedal force and crank torque&lt;/a&gt;. From this plot it is clear that the torque peaks only once per crank revolution. Note, by the way, that the Kautz data were collected from an instrumented pedal on only one crank, so the torque is measured only on one side, just as Stages collects only on one side. These data show that the assumption that the torque peaks observed in the data here also only occur once per crank revolution, even though we are plotting against time rather than crank angle. Importantly for this analysis, maximum torque is more easily identifiable than minimum torque. If you look at the first plot above, you can see that maximum torque is (in this sample) single-peaked but minimum torque can sometimes have a &quot;blip&quot; or other anomaly that makes identifying the peak-to-peak interval easier to find than identifying the trough-to-trough interval.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gXtdz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Kautz torque data showing maximum only once per crank revolution&quot;&gt;&#xA;Below I have plotted your data file with the x-axis converted from &quot;Timestamp&quot; to seconds of elapsed time and with torque (in Nm) on the y-axis. For each crank revolution I have done as described above and calculated the mean power in watts between torque peaks, presumably equivalent to crank revolutions. The average power between peaks is shown in red. Note that over one of the intervals the average torque as measured by the left crank was negative -- I have not suppressed or cleaned up the data so that shows up as -20 watts for the period from roughly 14 to 22 seconds on the plot (presumably, your right leg was generating positive torque at that point but we cannot see it). A slightly larger version of the plot below can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://anonymous.coward.free.fr/wattage/stages/dbr3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7v1Iq.png&quot; alt=&quot;calculated power over each crank revolution&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that other power meters (including the Garmin Vector, the Power2Max, and the new Pioneer, among others) use a combination of force-sensing strain gages and acclerometers just as the Stages does to determine force patterns and thus power. In fact, the Power Tap uses only strain gages and elsewhere I have shown that its &quot;virtual cadence&quot; estimated by variations in torque measured at the hub provide a reasonably good estimate of cadence as measured by a dedicated reed switch on the crank. Once again, this supports the approach taken here of using torque or force patterns as a way to determine time taken for a full crank revolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we calculated the elapsed time for each crank revolution, we can also calculate the cadence (in terms of revolutions per minute). I had calculated 28 values for the power over the 28 interpeak intervals in the plot above. The plot below shows the cadence and average torque for each revolution corresponding to those 28 values, with the cadence and average torque pairs sequentially identified by a number from 1 to 28, indicating which crank revolution is shown (thus, the first combination of cadence and torque is labeled &quot;1&quot;, the second by &quot;2&quot; and so on; the point with negative average torque is off the bottom of the plot). The dotted red lines are isopower contours at 100, 150, 200, and 250 watts. As can be seen from the plot, for the first 16 or so peaks, cadence was higher and torque lower than for the final few pedal strokes. That is consistent with the first plot above of torque against time-stamp: you can see that the pedal strokes are farther apart and the torque peaks are higher. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmTfT.png&quot; alt=&quot;cadence-torque plot&quot;&gt;&#xA;Thus, you can see that even without nominal crank angle, it is possible to reconstruct reasonable estimates of power and cadence from these data, tedious though the effort may be. If your data sample were longer you might want to pass the torque data through a filter to strengthen the &quot;signal&quot; and suppress the &quot;noise,&quot; then difference the filtered torque values and look for records where the difference passes zero from above; this will identify a torque peak (this method is essentially the same as examining the first derivative of a function to identify transition points and then examining the second derivative to determine whether the transition point was a maximum or a minimum). Then you can calculate the elapsed time and average torque between peaks as described above to derive power and cadence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to check that the cadence values derived in this way are correct? Not with only these data alone. However, almost all usual Stages data sets will include wheel speed. Wheel speed is typically measured by a reed switch (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9021/what-does-a-cyclocomputer-actually-measure-for-calculating-the-speed-of-the-bike/9054#9054&quot;&gt;this bicycles.stackexchange answer&lt;/a&gt; for a description of how speed is measured) and it is possible to use measured speed and estimated cadence to calculate the implied gear ratio. Except for the rare bicycles with continuously variable transmissions, gear ratios are discrete. That means that if you plot the putative gear ratio based on speed and cadence over time, they should fall into easily recognizable discrete rows rather than into a random scatterplot. As an example, below you can see calculated gear ratios based on speed and cadence from a ride. Unfortunately in this plot you cannot see the speed but the measured cadence is shown in the top panel, and you can verify that it is not constant but rather varies up and down. The bottom panel shows the calculated gear ratios and, as expected, they fall into discrete and easily identifiable rows. If the cadences estimated for the Stages high-frequency data were correct, the gear ratios derived from them would both fall into discrete rows and also would coincide with the gear ratios defined by the actual chain rings and cogs on the rider's bicycle. That would provide a check and validation of the method of estimating cadence from the peak-to-peak intervals.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wPSPN.png&quot; alt=&quot;speed and cadence can be used to calculate gear ratios&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, these data are not easy to work with but, evidently surprisingly to many, it is still possible to glean some information from them. In combination with other information that will probably be available from the usual Stages data files (speed and power) you could verify that this approach produced the correct high-frequency torque values to be consistent with the 1-second data. Then you could use the torque values to examine application of power around the pedal stroke with some amount of confidence that the data were complete and consistent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-02-11T09:53:11.103" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T09:53:11.103" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23334" CreationDate="2014-07-07T11:14:30.620" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple, yet powerful solution - pour max 1 teaspoon of &lt;em&gt;sodium bicarbonate&lt;/em&gt; (baking soda, found in any store) into the shoes before or after wearing them. It will kill the bacteria and any other &quot;stuff&quot; that produces bad smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It has no negative effects on skin&lt;/strong&gt; whatsoever, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;except when applying it to freshly shaven skin - as it may cause inflammation of the skin&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (but, hey - everything does under that conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also doesn't paint socks or shirts (if you use it as a deodorant replacement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it on daily basis. Also, it's great if you don't want the irritations on skin from the deodorants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sodium Bicarbonate is odorless itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_bicarbonate&quot;&gt;More info on Sodium Bicarbonate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3937" LastEditorUserId="3937" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T07:30:41.723" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T07:30:41.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-07T12:53:47.423" Score="7" ViewCount="1240" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question on a bell had a lot of comments on how to notify pedestrians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you notify a pedestrian you need to pass?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you notify a bicycle you need to pass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine this will be region dependent so please state your region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is getting a bit of response and it clearly varies by region.  I will give it a couple more hours and just award the answer to the most votes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T16:24:14.610" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T18:15:45.447" Title="Polite/Proper Way To Notify Pedestrians and Bicycles" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-07-07T18:09:03.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23453" CreationDate="2014-07-07T13:13:10.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I post an answer but looking for other answers and will not give the check to my answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Houston and the common protocol is bike left or bike right.  Bike left is bike passing on the left.  If the pedestrian does not know the protocol they will turn look to the left so things can go bad.  If it looks like an experienced runner they probably know the protocol.  Pedestrians don't do a good job of staying right. And if you have traffic both ways you may drop off the path and pass on the right.  We get some bells but they are mainly Europeans.  When I hear a bell I look for an ice cream truck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a couple hours a day a 1 mile loop is shut down and get some racers training.  It can be a problem there.  You will get kids learning to skate and all over the road.   Racers can get irritated and it is not always a polite exchange. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a pretty loud cassette so on the sidewalk I just coast and let them hear me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I lived in Seattle there was more use of bells.  Also many more blind turns.  And pedestrians did a better job of staying to the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the trails the protocol is rider up or rider back.  Going into a blind turn rider up. Then when you pass you call out how many riders are behind you - e.g. 2 back or if none then clear back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A runner will call out runner up.  I guess if they passed you they would call runner back but I have never been passed by a runner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T13:34:17.147" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T13:34:17.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23453" CreationDate="2014-07-07T13:29:55.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Southern California, when approaching slower traffic from behind on bike lanes and paths: &quot;On your left&quot; meaning that you are passing them on their left-hand side. Only left. People hear the &quot;On&quot; portion of the call and they start moving to their right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't ever recall hearing &quot;On your right&quot;. Good thing, too. Would be a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12866" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T13:29:55.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23453" CreationDate="2014-07-07T13:31:27.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dayton, OH, the protocol seems to be sneak up on them and shout as your tire starts to overlap.  Majority of riders tend to not use bells (and only shout when it is too late) and a smaller slice have the miracle bell (miracle if the other person hears it).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have installed dual action bells on all our bikes (or a bugle on my sons) and it allows us to notify at a farther distance with a greater chance of hearing us.  This works for both Bikes and Peds.  People responding to it tend to be less jumpy than when I used to shout.  It also saves my voice on the busier days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T13:31:27.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23467" CreationDate="2014-07-07T14:34:07.993" Score="1" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently destroyed the clasp on my pair of Fox Head Demo shorts while riding this weekend (don't worry, I'm OK). Do cycling clothing brands/companies offer any sort of warranty on their clothing for something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am specifically interested in clothing intended for more extreme use like downhill where it should hold up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T12:03:44.127" Title="Warranties on cycling clothing in the event of a crash?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23453" CreationDate="2014-07-07T14:41:35.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bristol, UK: &quot;Passing on your left/right&quot; usually works, but every once in a while peds (or even cyclists) will move the wrong way. To be on the safe side, I just bell from a good few yards back. If that doesn't provoke a shoulder check, I just roll up slowly and issue a polite &quot;'Scuse me, mind if I pass?&quot;... I think that's probably the best all-round approach anyway - why should pedestrians on a shared path be expected to know &quot;bike lingo&quot; like &quot;on your left&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a numpty with headphones, I find a very quick &quot;pip&quot; with the AirZound works wonders ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a runner, or a slower cyclist, who's obviously sticking to the left, I just pass on the right with ample space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T14:41:35.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23453" CreationDate="2014-07-07T14:48:53.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I send a single &quot;ping&quot; with my bell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More pings only if I don't see the other person recognizing me (e.g. look at me, wave a hand, change direction etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12875" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T14:48:53.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23453" CreationDate="2014-07-07T15:18:11.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed over the years that if I call out it startles people walking.  Most walkers don't expect someone on a bicycle let along someone calling out something they don't understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my strategy now is when I get reasonably close I cough.  Yup cough, it is a familiar sound and if it's on a quite street the walker will usually turn around to see who's behind them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a pass I give a friendly wave and sometimes a polite hello.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T15:18:11.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23457" CreationDate="2014-07-07T15:20:05.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In England and Wales, under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 goods must be as described, of satisfactory quality and fit for purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of warranty length, a product which is intended to last many years but fails after a few months of use can be deemed faulty or unfit for purpose. Within the first 6 months, it is assumed that the product did not meet the contract specification when delivered. After 6 months a fault may indicate the product fell short of the durability expectations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The contract of sale is with the retailer, not the manufacturer, so don't let the retailer pass the buck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local laws may have similar principles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T15:20:05.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2014-07-07T15:28:43.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While riding with broken spokes is possible, I have started to keep a pair of spare spokes taped down low on the seat tube mostly out of view.  I typically only seems break spokes on the rear wheel and then on side away from the gears.  So it's a quick fix to pull out the broken spoke and thread in a spare.  The wheel is far truer that with the broken spoke.  I only need this trick every two years or so and I feel a lot better riding on and then home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T15:28:43.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23453" CreationDate="2014-07-07T15:50:09.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Western Australia: It is a legal requirement here to have a bell or warning device fitted. I have bells on my bikes and generally only use them when approaching pedestrians or cyclists who are either making it difficult to pass (e.g., walking wide or in the centre of the path) or who I feel may make a sudden move that could prove not so good for either of us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bit topical here at the moment following the death of a 95 year pedestrian who was hit by a cyclist. There where on a shared use path. No details beyond the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abc.net.au/news/2014-07-06/elderly-pedestrian-killed-cyclist-crash-bassendean-perth/5575242&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ABC news report&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Andrew&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T15:50:09.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23453" CreationDate="2014-07-07T18:00:50.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Germany:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I should explain that I'm mostly biking to get to/from work, so this is about urban streets. But when I ride for fun on weekends, on the relevant paths there's seldomly so much traffic it requires significant regulation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's a street present, usually pedestrians are on the sidewalk and bikes on the street, so there's no conflict.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's a dedicated bikeway, I ring the bell from as far away as possible considering hearing conditions if pedestrians are on the bikeway, or to overtake another bike. On the bikeway, the usual rules apply (drive right, overtake left), so no need to announce the passing direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combined bike/pedestrian ways are an abomination which I don't use (biking on the street), fortunately they're largely illegal by current regulations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a path in the woods or fields, there's usually traffic in both ways, so pedestrians as well as bikes tend to keep on the(ir) right side, allowing normal overtaking (giving a soft ping with the bell to notify). If there's a larger group blocking the whole path, the same as for bikeways applies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10958" LastEditorUserId="10958" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T18:15:45.447" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T18:15:45.447" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23429" CreationDate="2014-07-07T18:44:18.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute with SS and 25c in front and 23c on the back. I live in Zagreb so there is really a lot of variations of terrain, but I like to be fast so I don't mind. I had more problems with wider tires than with thinner tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, IMHO thin tires are just fine and I enjoy them, but I also think that you yourself need to try different setups and see what suits you best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12863" LastEditorUserId="1158" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T13:34:20.053" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T13:34:20.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23468" CreationDate="2014-07-07T18:51:20.867" Score="3" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a ride recently my front derailleur seems to have gotten jammed. The levers wouldn't index and the derailleur itself wouldn't budge. After continuing the ride for a bit, the problem went away on its own. What could have caused this? And how can it be fixed more quickly in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a Shimano Deore derailleur, and it was stuck in the smallest chainring position. The bike is new with less than 50 miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12878" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T20:02:55.330" Title="Stuck front derailleur" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23457" CreationDate="2014-07-07T19:43:33.180" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think any manufacturer will give you any warranty in case of &quot;abuse&quot; of its products – and it surely could be considered abusive to have a crash with their clothing, even if it was sold as mountainbike clothing. There may be some exception with protective gear, but even then the manufacturer might argue that it was designed to get damaged or destroyed in order to protect you. In this case I could imagine the manufacturer might give you some discount on a replacement, as some helmet manufacturers do in case of a crashed helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for &quot;normal&quot; clothing, I don't think you will have great chances on such warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T19:43:33.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23466" CreationDate="2014-07-07T20:02:55.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often while mountain biking a twig or rock will get stuck between the swing arms on your front derailleur. This effectively locks the derailleur in place until the rock/twig works itself out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it happens again, stop and examine the derailleur. Generally you can't see the obstruction while you're riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T20:02:55.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17111" CreationDate="2014-07-07T20:24:53.050" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;wax(carnauba) will not harm paint fullstop...there is not cleaner agents in carnauba....cured paint is only down to the hardness it forms so to say not too wax or seal a fresh paint job is silly...would you not seal a new car...i know plenty of detailers do the full multi stage machine polish and finally seal new cars or fresh paint jobs....paint will cure over time no matter what you do...but if u want to protect it i would advise in using a wax or sythetic sealant that has no silicone in it...silicone is paints worst enemy...it stops pores in the paint from breathing....i use a ultra fine polish just to bring the shine up with little effort the seal it with a sealant then a coat of carnauba wax...the same way i treat my car without the machine polishing aspect....thatll last 6mths easy...just wash it whenever and apply another coat if u like...or use citrus degreaser (or fairy liquid)on the whole frame and thatll strip the wax right off...hope this helped&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12882" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T20:24:53.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23487" CreationDate="2014-07-07T21:12:12.997" Score="6" ViewCount="2470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm commuting with a backpack, and I don't like having the weight of my laptop on my back for the whole commute (30 minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm looking to buy a pannier that I can easily take off when I get to my destination, and use it as a bag, like a messager when I'm off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do anyone know of a good one that would fit a MBP15 retina? Something like this would be great:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timbuk2.com/shift-laptop-pannier-bike-messenger-bag/439.html?dwvar_439_color=2001&amp;amp;dwvar_439_size=7&quot;&gt;http://www.timbuk2.com/shift-laptop-pannier-bike-messenger-bag/439.html?dwvar_439_color=2001&amp;amp;dwvar_439_size=7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But not only it's sold out, it doesn't fit the MBP15 Retina.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12883" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T18:11:32.907" Title="Pannier for MacBook Pro 15 retina?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-07T21:44:27.973" Score="2" ViewCount="559" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1GpQh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Un6oz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SE7DL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike was given to me from a elderly lady who no longer wished to own it. Other than a columbia I have no idea what year or model. There seems to be no serial numbers from which I can see on the frame itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12884" LastEditorUserId="12884" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T21:49:44.493" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T05:35:12.547" Title="Help Identify This Bike" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21840" CreationDate="2014-07-07T22:54:38.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my mental experiment on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The O.P. states he would install a bigger cog on the left, and a bigger chainring on the right, resulting on a higher (faster) gear ration on right side and a lower(slower) gear ratio on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if the freewheel is installed normally (i.e. freewheeling on coast) then this happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the freewheel is on the higher gear side, then it wants to move the bike faster, but the fixed side wants to go slower, so the transmission seizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the freewheel is on the lower gear side, then the fixed side would move the bike faster than the freewheel side, so this side is actually coasting while the fixed side does the real work. Now you start trying to slow down, but the fixed side is always engaged, so the freewheel side never gets to be in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second try: Somewhow the Freewheel is installed backwards, so it freewheels when you pedal forward, but engages on backpedalling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the freewheel is in the higher gear side: when you pedal forward the bike moves with the low gear ratio in the fixed side, the higher side freewheels because the hub rotates slower than the freewheel cog. Now stop pedalling, the frewheeling side engages so the tire tries to move the crankset and since it has higher ratio it tries to move the crankset slower than what the fixed side tries to move it, the transmission seizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the freewheel is in the lower gear ratio side: When pedalling forward the fixed side dives the bike with the highest (fastest) ratio, the hub rotates forward faster than what the lower ratio tries to, the freewheel sees this as backpedaling (crankset rotating slower than the hub) so the transmision seizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that such arrangement woul not work, instead it would create potential catastrophic failure of the components due to them trying to drive one another with different angular speeds. However, I don't think the idea is to be dismissed, I think the goal of having one one ratio to accelerate and other to brake is to use two differently sized freewheels installed to engage in different directions. For this experiment I'd rather install a dual crankset with two identical chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1: small freeweel engages while pedalling forward. The bike moves forward when pedalling normally using the higher ratio, then when trying to coast, the small cog starts freewheeling and the larger one engages, trying to move the crankset a little bit faster. When it does, it might result on a temporary engagement of the small freewheel that depends on an obscure relation between the angular position of the pawls inside the two ratchets, but as you are trying to slow down the pedals, the process repeats until you come to a stop (maybe a very jerky one). Whether or not this works whould depend on how much each freeweel can rotate before engaging (i.e. how long the ramps are) compared to the difference in gear ratios between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2: big freeweel engages while pedalling forward. The bike moves moves forward using the lower ratio, the smaller cog is reverse-installed so ir freewheels. When trying to slow down the small freewheel engages, making the crankset rotate but slower than the ratio of the big freewheel demands, so it won't engage. This would give you different ratios for accelerating and braking, but would not satify the O.P. desire to have the lower ratio for braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to comment any corrections, I'd be happy to edit accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T22:54:38.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="128" CreationDate="2014-07-08T01:14:05.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;a. Clincher and Tubular  refer to the type of rim on the wheel, and what type of tire can be used on the wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b. Clincher wheels are the most common type and are used with a tire and an inner tube. If you get a flat tire with a clincher, you can change out the inner tube and continue riding fairly quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c. Tubular wheels are lighter and cheaper, but you must use specific tubular tires. These tires combine the tire and inner tube into one piece, and must be glued onto the wheel. Generally tubular tires are more expensive than clincher tires and they are more difficult to change, in the event of a flat. To change a tubular tire, you will need to remove the glued on tire and reapply fresh glue and a new tubular tire, then allow some time for the glue to cure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11487" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T01:14:05.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23471" CreationDate="2014-07-08T02:27:14.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Too bad the first picture is so backlit. I can't zoom in very well- amazed you have determined its a Columbia! The chain guard is by Wald, purchased sometime in the distant past from an IBD. The fork has most certainly been damaged from a frontal impact. The pedals were most likely installed after 1973; the year the CPSC mandated pedal reflectors. The frame itself is so weird- it looks as though the spot-welded dropout attachment had failed (common failure) and was repaired with bolts and nuts (common &quot;field repair&quot;). The rack, if &quot;homegrown&quot;, it ingenious, if a little raw. The surviving decals, if original, suggest an homage to the popular Schwinn American of the early '60's, but also remind me of the mass market Columbia 10 speed bikes marketed about 1975. The more I look at it- the bizarre rear dropout, which stands incongruous to the rest of the bike- and the way the rear rack braces were installed (one &quot;out&quot;, one &quot;in&quot;)-I suspect the bike was damaged and repaired &quot;at home&quot; by a good lay mechanic. He did the best he could with what he had, and kudos to him. I suspect the bike may have stared life about 1973-1977 as a lifestyle model. Cool bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12887" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T02:27:14.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2014-07-08T08:56:22.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some data points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all the factory-built fancy wheels I see on group rides are now laced 'passing' rather than 'crossing'. Seems to be standard practice across Campagnolo, Fulcrum, Shimano, Zipp, Mavic, etc. This may be because they like to use bladed spokes and perhaps there is an incompatibility there. But it may also be that it is as strong and removes a warranty-claimable failure mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a google image search for 'broken spoke' which finds a lot of spokes broken at the elbow (as you would expect) and very few broken elsewhere. However the few which have broken elsewhere (and not as the result of a crash) look to have broken at the 'crossing' point. This makes sense because it should be the most-fatigued point in a double-butted spoke laced 'crossing'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried building a set of wheels 'passing' not 'crossing' and here are my observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was easier to lace the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tensioning and truing was more difficult because the tension of the inside spokes needs to be significantly less than the tension of the outside spokes to exert the same lateral pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to cross the spokes on the rear drive-side: a short test revealed the rear mech was clipping the outside spoke otherwise. That was on an 11-speed hub with 10-speed drivetrain and the 1.8mm spacer behind the cassette, so on a true 11-speed system or with a 10-speed hub it might be possible to rip the mech off entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With disc brakes you might need to cross the spokes on the caliper-side to clear the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With normal hubs and J-bend spokes I recommend that you interlace all sides of both wheels because the benefits of even spoke tension for all spokes on the same side of the same wheel far exceeds the minor benefits of not interlacing the sides you don't need to interlace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at my wife's DT Swiss wheels they are laced crossing with the inside and outside spokes leaving the hub from almost the same plane, so they are close to achieving the benefits of both systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastEditorUserId="12705" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T21:20:34.473" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T21:20:34.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-08T10:07:05.513" Score="2" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need help as I need to change the fork for my bike (Ridgeback Speed 2013 Womens Hybrid Bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in London and I went to few shops but in all of them they need to order the fork and it will cost me between £80 and £100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know if there is anywhere I could find a fork for my bike and make cheaper to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isabel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12892" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T16:08:00.463" Title="I need to change my fork after having an accident with my bike" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15420" CreationDate="2014-07-08T12:02:41.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Garmin 800 and an external battery with USB output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Garmin will keep running for days like that, with no backlight BUT the data recording&#xA;cannot cope with a 24 hour bike ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my last two 24 hour cycle events, the Garmin corrupted the activity file at around 23 hours which was somewhat 'annoying'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tested it on distance, with car journeys, and it can cope with 650km in 12 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But cycling 560km in 24 hours is not feasible, it seems. Probably too many data points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should stop the timing at 12 hours, reset, and start a new 12 hour session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12895" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T12:02:41.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23470" CreationDate="2014-07-08T12:41:27.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This model from Ortleib should work&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortleib.com/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=officebag_hv&amp;amp;biketoy=cityoffice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ortlerib Office-Bag High Visibility&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T12:41:27.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23477" CreationDate="2014-07-08T13:23:17.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These folks should be able to help out for super cheap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lbk.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;London Bike Kitchen&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8918" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T13:23:17.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2014-07-08T15:03:56.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious advantage is puncture resistance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rolling resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several levels of puncture resistance and a Kevlar belt is not the only means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me tell you a story.  After two years on a tire with moderate puncture resistance got my first flat and had to walk it home.  I got on-line and bought THE most puncture resistant tire I could find ignoring all other factors.  It is twice as heavy as the old tire (and feels twice as heavy), noticeably more rolling resistance, less grip, terrible grip in wet, and a harsh ride.  I don't like it.  If I get zero flats in two years compared to one not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even racing tires typically come with some puncture resistance. Some time trial tires have none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Means of puncture resistance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Puncture resistant material such as Kevlar.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are other materials such as Duraskin by Continental. &#xA;The material may be only on the tread strip or include sidewall. &#xA;Can even have a combination like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle_de_en/themes/race/GatorHardshell_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gator Hard Shell&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Material in tread strip&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not material specifically designed for puncture resistance - more material. &#xA;Rubber or SmartGuard. Make the glass or thorn travel further. &#xA;An example is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/Marathon_Plus_HS440&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Marathon Plus HS 440&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Harder rubber&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bounce glass and thorns off and also slow them down if they do penetrate &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick your level of protection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puncture resistant material in tread only&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This adds puncture resistance at a very small performance impact. &#xA;Comes in all but very very cheap tires. &#xA;Most racing tires even have this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puncture resistant material(s) in tread and sidewall&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Adds even more puncture resistance at still a very small performance impact. &#xA;At this level it is more just a cost thing. &#xA;A cheap tire is not going to have this extra material. &#xA;An expensive tire will have better puncture resistance, performance, and ride compared to a  cheap tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More material (e.g. rubber)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Adds more puncture resistance but now you get into noticeable performance impacts.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harder rubber&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Harsher ride and less traction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick a tire for a combination of performance, ride, puncture resistance, and price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T15:03:56.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="246" CreationDate="2014-07-08T15:32:03.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cons: Heavier, more rolling resistance, some are prone to cracking on the sidewalls, tougher to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: Lasts for ages, great if you live in a city with a lot of serious potholes, good for rolling over different terrain, rarely have to change a tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12804" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T15:32:03.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23477" CreationDate="2014-07-08T16:08:00.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to buy a basic new fork for about £20 to £30. eg &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/raleigh/700c-1-1-8-threaded-fork-ec033543&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raleigh 700C 1 1/8&quot; Threaded Fork&lt;/a&gt; from Evans. Or there's a variety of options on Ebay, either new or used. Or some cycling forums have classified sections, so you could post a wanted advert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though there are several things to check to ensure a replacement fork is compatible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheel size. That Ridgeback has 700C wheels, so you need a fork the right length for those.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake mounts. To use your existing brakes, you need mounts for V-brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steerer tube diameter and headset type. I can't find the details for that Ridgeback, but from photos it looks like it uses a threaded headset. It probably needs a 1 1/8&quot; steerer, though it is possible it uses the older 1&quot; size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could find a bike shop to fit the replacement fork. It may cost anything between £20 and £50, depends on the shop and just what needs done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you want to replace the fork yourself, you will need several tools. Probably including several spanners, and possibly also headset tools. If you don't have these, you may be able to borrow them from someone. The best option could be a DIY bike workshop, eg the one suggested by Booker. They will have tools you can use, plus they may be able to advise on what you need to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how your fork was damaged, its possible that other parts of the bike are broken. So it is worth checking it all carefully. The worst would be if the frame is bent or broken, that would be a lot of cost and work to replace. If the frame is damaged, you may be better off just replacing the whole bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T16:08:00.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23470" CreationDate="2014-07-08T18:05:28.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Timbuk2 Especial Viaje convertible backpack/pannier which I use to commute with my work laptop, a MBP 15&quot; Retina. It uses the same rack-attachment hardware as the current edition of the Timbuk2 Shift. That hardware has broken 4 times in my ~8 months of owning the bag. Timbuk2 has been good about sending replacement hardware, but it's still not fun to have to maintain the bag that much, especially considering Timbuk2 sells their bags as being very durable. They're now offering me store credit to get a new bag, but they don't have any equivalent bag currently available, and won't until 2015, so I'll take them up in fall after the hot, sweaty summer is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if they only tested the all-plastic hardware in SF's very mild climate, as opposed to somewhere with seasons— perhaps using the bag through the winter weakened the plastic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had a previous edition of the Timbuk2 Shift, which had even worse pannier hardware with 2 hooks held in by tiny little pins as its only points of support. When one of the hooks fell off because its tiny pin slipped out, I was very lucky the bungee the bag had didn't get caught in my rear wheel and cause a crash, which would have been especially bad in lower Manhattan traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I guess my answer is: I suggest the Ortlieb as they're a lot more experienced with manufacturing/sourcing durable pannier hardware. Or maybe look into the Arkel as well: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/us/messenger-pannier-laptop-bag.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.arkel-od.com/us/messenger-pannier-laptop-bag.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want the Shift, REI has it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/847594/timbuk2-shift-pannier-single&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/847594/timbuk2-shift-pannier-single&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;And it's nice to be able to take advantage of their return policy, if you need it as I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="5702" LastEditDate="2014-07-08T18:11:32.907" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T18:11:32.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23490" CreationDate="2014-07-08T19:04:28.757" Score="1" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to put 28c size tires on my Giant OCR4 2006 (which I second-hand bought recently), but these old Tektro brakes don't have this useful release switch modern brakes have. I tried loosening the fine tuning bolt marked (marked as 1 in the picture). But this doesn't open far enough for 25c+. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there supposed to be an easy way of releasing the brakes in case I get a puncture? The only way I can think off is taking the brake blocks out, or loosening the table tension bolt (marked as 2 in the picture). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is my best option just buying some new brakes if I want to run bigger tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WoFjf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T20:04:06.560" Title="Release brakes Giant OCR4 2006" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23492" CreationDate="2014-07-08T19:10:40.947" Score="6" ViewCount="2370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've owned a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mountain-bikes.findthebest.com/l/5212/2013-Trek-3500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek 3500&lt;/a&gt; bike (shown below) for 2.5 years now and I like it very much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aopx7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trek 3500&quot;&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike has the same specs as under the link. It has the XL frame size and 26&quot; wheels with Bontrager AT-550 36-hole rims. I've started looking into changing the Bontrager tires to slick road tires though as I've begun to ride more for exercise and not just recreational. 95% of my riding is on paved roads/trails. The problem is I have no idea what tires can work on my bike for me. I'm considering the high pressure &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/kenda-k193-kwest-26-inch-tire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kenda K193&lt;/a&gt; tires. Can anyone advise? I'm looking for the best tires I can get for around $35 each. Is it even possible to replace the 2&quot; tires with 1.5&quot; without needing to buy new rims and everything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm riding ~35 miles on weekends and let's just say I'm right now a heavier guy (~300 lbs). I've ridden on the same tires almost daily since I first bought it, so I feel it's about time to change them anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12852" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T14:57:50.800" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T09:28:31.667" Title="Will Slick Tires Work for a Mountain Bike Ridden by a Heavier Rider?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23488" CreationDate="2014-07-08T19:51:22.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two ways:&#xA;1. Deflate the tyre, put the wheel in, re-inflate. I had to do like this in the old days.&#xA;2. There are tension release devices you can put in the cable-housing. Shimano amongst others sells those for their direct-mount rear Dura-ace brakes that don't come with release levers. (item SM-CB90)&#xA;The alternative would be new brakes indeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastEditorUserId="10401" LastEditDate="2014-07-08T20:04:06.560" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T20:04:06.560" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23489" CreationDate="2014-07-08T20:32:33.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not an issue going down in size.  I see nothing wrong with the tires you have selected.  At 300 lbs maybe step up to a 1.75.  Just going to a street type tire from the knobby is going to reduce rolling resistance and give you a nicer street ride.  When you go down in size that far you should also get new tubes.  Once the tubes have been stretched the problem is you may get a fold putting them in a smaller tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T20:32:33.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23489" CreationDate="2014-07-08T20:37:45.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those tires should work just fine. Any of the MTB slick tires listed on that site would work well with your bike and current rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get too small a tire on too wide a rim, but it takes a much bigger jump than from 2&quot; to 1.5 or so. There is a very conservative &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sizing guide&lt;/a&gt; on Sheldon Brown's bike pages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your weight, I would try and find the largest size slick you can. Something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/big-apple.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwable Big Apple&lt;/a&gt; in a 2.0&quot; format&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; supports a maxim load of 275 lbs per wheel, but it's outside your price range, or from that page the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycle.kendatire.com/en-us/find-a-tire/bicycle/commuter/kwick-roller-sport/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kenda K1029 Kwick Roller Sport 26 Inch Tire (50-559)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last number is key to understanding tire sizes. You have 559mm rims, so just about any 559 tire will work with your bike. The 50 is the nominal width of the inflated tire in mm's. ( i.e. 50mm ~ 2 inches ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Schwalbe has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.com/en/reifenmasse.html#ui-accordion-3-header-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sizing guide&lt;/a&gt; too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="10856" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T09:28:31.667" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T09:28:31.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23493" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-08T23:13:17.380" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-08T23:13:17.380" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T23:13:17.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23494" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-08T23:13:17.380" Score="0" Body="Touring bikes are designed for long distance cycling with luggage. They are usually similar in design to road bikes, with slick tyres and drop handlebars, but have a wider range of gears, longer wheelbases for stability, and a more comfortable riding position. They typically come equipped with mudguards and luggage racks as standard." OwnerUserId="12861" LastEditorUserId="12861" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T13:03:57.660" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T13:03:57.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23498" CreationDate="2014-07-08T23:30:04.410" Score="13" ViewCount="5683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a few bikes marketed as &quot;Expedition Bikes&quot;. They seem to be designed for the purpose of touring off-the-beaten-track. Typically they have 26 inch wheels and either butterfly or flat bars, though I have seen a couple with drops. Some even have internal hub gears. The one defining characteristic seems to be the 26 inch wheels though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the advantage, specifically, of the 26 inch wheels over 700c when on an 'Expedition' type tour? And more in general, are there other advantages to buying (or building) an Expedition Bike rather than just modifying an existing road tourer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12861" LastEditorUserId="12861" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T13:24:12.337" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T19:53:51.873" Title="Do expedition bikes offer advantages over standard touring bikes?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-09T00:09:07.933" Score="6" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0048FSR1M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a Bell Road tire&lt;/a&gt; from Walmart. Since I haven't exactly had great luck with Walmart bicycle products, I looked up the reviews... not so great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In their defense, they are 1.375, not 1.25, but still, the things couldn't stay on my bike... in a sharp, low-speed turn with minimal leaning from me, the bead just popped off!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00288HOBU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Continental Gatorskin&lt;/a&gt; tire with a much better set of review on amazon.  &lt;em&gt;But&lt;/em&gt;, does it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I'm being a little specific, but what I want to know is &lt;em&gt;how do I minimize my chances of my tires trying to kill me&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I realize this may look like a shopping question,&lt;/strong&gt; but &lt;em&gt;I have to &lt;strong&gt;purchase&lt;/strong&gt; tires that I use&lt;/em&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate any advice from guys who actually have enough experience to really comment on tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T07:24:09.030" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T12:48:14.447" Title="Are some tires safer than others?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23496" CreationDate="2014-07-09T00:24:31.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as though your problem was a somewhat loose tyre not properly seated. It may have been loose enough that it couldn't be properly seated, but in that case I'd expect it to pop off and the tube explode while you were pumping it up for the first time. You may also be running the tyres at too low a pressure, with a skinny tyre like that I'd expect them to need 70psi or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;seating a new tyre&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fit the uninflated tyre and tube as you normally do&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pump it up to 10-15psi - just enough that there's air in there but it's still very spongy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ideally spin the wheel, but just looking around it also works. Look for bulges or dips in the tyre sidewall relative to the rim, ideally using a line around the tyre (a moulding line or the reflective strip).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when you see a dip down into the rim, grab the tyre firmly on both sides and rock your hand to pull that bulge up into the correct position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when you see a bulge upward you need to pull the rest of the tyre down. Start 1 few inches past the bulge and rock the tyre up (as above), then repeat this around the tyre until you're back at the bulge (which should be gone by now)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repeat on the other side of the tyre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps 4 and 5 are easy to skip, and the reason why you want very little air in that tyre. The &quot;explode on first inflation&quot; thing happens occasionally in bike shops, and it's a chance for everyone else to laugh at whoever did it. After getting over the shock of the loud noise!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally this is just a quick eyeball check of both sides of the tyre, and I'll often skip it with tyres that are tight on the rim. If it's hard to get on, it'll usually seat firmly as soon as air goes in. But loose tyres I'm very careful of (see &quot;loud noise&quot; above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit to add)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Picking Tyres&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My impression is that many (most?) cyclists I know go to a local bike shop and talk to people, see what's available, and buy something they can actually touch. At least once, anyway, before going &quot;I can get these much cheaper online&quot;. Having decided on a brand or brands, and a preference for fat/slick/kevlar-studded and so on, they then grind through a few options over the next few thousand kilometres of riding before developing either very strong preferences (like the bike geeks here), or a complete lack of interest. Working in a bike shop I really did get people who brought bikes in and said &quot;tyre. flat. replace. bye&quot; then walked out, leaving me holding a bike going &quot;can I at least get your phone number?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Availability is also important. If you're going to try some tyres with a view to picking one you like, pick a manufacturer that's been around for a while and doesn't change their darn tyres every year. Otherwise every time you buy a tyre you have to work out which one best matches the one you bought last year. If you're buying online, try to pick a store that keeps stuff in stock. It's annoying buying something only to wait a month while it gets shipped from a warehouse in China when you chose a &quot;local&quot; online store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my preference is for puncture resistant to very, very puncture resistant slicks, with more puncture resistance on my commuter and less on my touring bike (where rolling resistance is more important). On my velomobile I went for extreme puncture resistance because going much faster also meant that the time taken to stop and fix a puncture stood out a lot more. Spending 10 minutes fixing a puncture on a 20km ride that should have taken under 30 minutes is more annoying than I expected, so after it happened once I went for serious puncture resistance. I also prefer a brand (Schwalbe) and apart from a few older Maxxis tyres that haven't worn out yet, all... 6... bikes in our shed have Scwalbe tyres. Marathon Plus through to Marathons, with Duranos on my 700c &quot;lazy bike&quot; (takes less effort to go faster than by other bikes, therefore &quot;lazy&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhere there's a photo of a 3&quot; nail sticking through a marathon plus on my bike. Not, I emphasise, &lt;strong&gt;puncturing&lt;/strong&gt; the marathon plus, just &quot;zombie tyre&quot; poking through it, with one side of the nail head ground flat where it had hit the ground every time the wheel went round. That's freakishly unusual, but it's one reason why I like the marathon plus tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T09:31:15.560" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T09:31:15.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23495" CreationDate="2014-07-09T00:53:43.967" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should find that on those bikes &lt;strong&gt;everything is a bit stronger&lt;/strong&gt; and heavier than a standard touring bike. Not only are they expected to carry more weight, they're designed to be ridden into places where failures are more difficult to recover from. As well, because they're designed to be ridden off road they'll usually have a lower top tube for better stand-over height, and there are fewer compromises in building a frame like that with smaller wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smaller wheels are stronger&lt;/strong&gt; than larger ones, mostly laterally but also weight-for-weight vertically (shorter circumference means more material per unit length). This is most obvious with the 306 and 406 wheels used on trikes, but applies also to larger wheels except that the differences are smaller. Larger wheels mean the axle is higher, but also the top of the fork crown and so on, so you're adding the change in diameter to the frame height, not the change in radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decent 26&quot; &lt;strong&gt;tyres are more available&lt;/strong&gt; in small towns. With a 700c or 27&quot; wheel you may find that you have a choice of flimsy, skinny tyres and nothing else. (thanks Batman). In a pinch you can tour on cheap MTB tyres more easily than cheap 700c tyres, because a cheap, skinny tyre is going to puncture more easily and not deal with touring loads as well. I've seen a lot of bike shops in small towns in the first world that have BMX tyres, 26&quot; off-road and city tyres, and 700c &quot;race&quot; tyres, all cheap unbranded tyres. It's not a choice between an expensive good brand and a cheap one, it's a choice between two widths or styles of the cheap one. If you have a choice. Or wait a week or more for mail order, because your order goes by air to a major city, then road to a minor city, then bus freight to where you are. Ideally you'd always carry a spare tyre, but in practice that just means you're waiting to replace the spare rather than the currently wrecked tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor is &lt;strong&gt;ease of building a frame&lt;/strong&gt; that will accept fat tyres with the wheel size. Once you add a 2.5&quot; tyre to your 700c wheel the frame gets quite large (29er MTB frames), which makes designing for low stand-over height harder and all the stresses on the frame get larger because the tubes are longer making for longer levers. The differences are small, but they add up - a slightly longer lever needs a slightly stronger tube, so now you have a longer tube that's also heavier per unit length, and overall the 10% extra length means a 25% heavier tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are also more likely to find &lt;strong&gt;disk brakes&lt;/strong&gt; on expedition bikes, because again they're more robust. Not necessarily the caliper and rotor, but the wheel as a whole. If you get a buckled wheel, with disk brakes the critical question is &quot;does the buckle clear the frame&quot; (ie, does the wheel go round), but with rim brakes it's &quot;can I adjust the brakes to clear the rim&quot; (that ignores &quot;do the brakes still work like that&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you see Rohloff &lt;strong&gt;hub gears&lt;/strong&gt; on expedition bikes is the same. Sure, they add cost, but they are &lt;em&gt;reliable&lt;/em&gt;. Not only do you lose the low-hanging, fragile rear derailleur, the straight chain line and high chain-ground clearance means chains last longer. The hubs go 5000km between oil changes and 150,000km or more before needing replacement. As a bonus you get a stronger wheel from wider spaced, symmetrical flanges (that are also taller). Again, it might be 1kg heavier, but when you're loading 50kg or more of stuff on the bike, do you really care?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motivation for a lot of this is that it's all very well saying &quot;I'll just get a lift to the next town&quot;, but if you're riding the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Birdsville_Track&quot;&gt;Birdsville Track&lt;/a&gt; in the off season (recommended to avoid getting run over by tourists) you might wait several days for the next car to arrive. And they might not be able to carry your bike as well as you. So not only do you need enough food for 500km, you need water for at least a week (2-3 days between water supplies, plus a reserve). Then you have to get a lift back to your bike with parts, fix it, and ride on. Much better to pay a bit extra and get a bike that doesn't break in the first place...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T23:33:58.200" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T23:33:58.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-09T01:45:24.517" Score="2" ViewCount="4598" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I rode 26 miles (42 km) on my mountain bicycle on a dirt/rock mountain trail.  How far could I ride on a road bicycle?  I was thinking of riding in a 100k (62 miles) and wondering if my fitness from a mountain bike could be translated to a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-13T00:54:36.603" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T00:57:38.877" Title="Mountain bicycle miles convert to road bicycle miles" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23499" CreationDate="2014-07-09T08:08:53.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Daniel said in his comment, use time as he bases for any comparison. I have had MTB rides where I have averaged under 8km/hour (5 mph), and others where I average over 20km/h (12.5 mph) over a similar time frame. What does not change is how much effort I put in over that time, but the consistency of that effort does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I find difficult transitioning from MTB to Road is on a Road bike you spend a lot more time in the riding position producing the same output - consistency is far more important than on the MTB. The 'mental space' on the road is hard for me as I get bored too easily. 160 km (100 miles, a century) days on roads does my head in more than my muscles, where as 6 hours/60 km (10 km/h or 6.2 mph) technical MTB and I have nothing left in the tank at the end but will still be enjoying it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can comfortably do 26 mile (42 km) MTB, stop thinking about it and do it - whats the worst that happens? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-13T00:57:38.877" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T00:57:38.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23501" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23522" CreationDate="2014-07-09T10:29:47.837" Score="11" ViewCount="7929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in a pinch and need something to crimp onto the end of my brake cable to stop it fraying. There aren't any hardware shop's nearby and its a long way to the nearest bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any household object that'll do the job?  Any good stop-gap until I can get a proper part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12879" LastActivityDate="2020-09-12T19:45:41.647" Title="What can I use for a DIY cable end?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23501" CreationDate="2014-07-09T10:31:30.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrap it tightly with electrical/gaffa tape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T10:31:30.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23496" CreationDate="2014-07-09T10:43:15.477" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the reviews has something interesting to say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These 27&quot; and 26&quot; tires are made to fit older 10 speed/english racer&#xA;  type bikes. You should remember that the 26&quot;x1-3/8&quot; size predates the&#xA;  MTB era by at least three decades, they came first. If you have an old&#xA;  Raleigh three speed or a 1970s Peugeot then these are the tires you&#xA;  need in the appropriate rim size. In general, if you have a Mountain&#xA;  bike or your bike is less then 20 years old, these are probably the&#xA;  wrong tires for you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot;&gt;According to Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;, mountain bikes use &quot;decimal&quot; sizes, such as 26x1.75 and some older road bikes from the 70s use &quot;fractional&quot; sizes like 26x1-3/4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it appears you bought 1.375 which is a decimal size, so it should fit modern bikes. However 1.375 = 1-3/8 which is the size the review is talking about. According to Sheldon, 26x1-3/8 would have a BSD of 597mm or 590mm while newer 26 inch bikes have a BSD of 559mm, making the old sized tired too big for modern rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T12:48:14.447" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T12:48:14.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23501" CreationDate="2014-07-09T11:43:50.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a soldering iron and some solder, that may stop it from fraying further, but won't make it any less sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could consider a bit of alu foil, but I doubt this would stay on. Perhaps with some glue suitable for metal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a small cable tie done up super-tight with pliers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T11:43:50.460" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23506" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:08:19.357" Score="4" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a 25.4 mm bullhorn for my fuji feather 2013, and I tried to install it.Then I've realized that my quill stem is for 26 mm handlebar.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are there any ways to install 25.4 mm handlebar into 26 mm quill stem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12907" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T13:28:24.920" Title="Installing handlebar" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23505" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:28:24.920" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy 0.3mm stainless steel sheets for shimming, but as bullhorns are quite heavily loaded (your weight will create more torsion at the clamp than on an equivalent drop bar), I'd return or re-sell the bar, or replace the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T13:28:24.920" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23507" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:29:04.707" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T13:29:04.707" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T13:29:04.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23508" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:29:04.707" Score="0" Body="An internally-geared hub is a gearing system contained within the rear-wheel hub of a bicycle. All the components are contained within the sealed hub, making them less susceptible to the elements when riding. They are generally regarded as lower maintenance than dérailleur gears. Usually they will have a somewhat narrower range of gears, and larger steps between the gear ratios." OwnerUserId="12861" LastEditorUserId="12861" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T16:47:56.297" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T16:47:56.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23405" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:29:50.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Negative force/torque power !+ actively resisting the pedal. Thus, no conclusions about pedaling &quot;style&quot; (even for the left leg, which is all that Stages measures) can be drawn from data such as these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12908" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T13:29:50.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23510" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:34:02.197" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T13:34:02.197" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T13:34:02.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23511" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:34:02.197" Score="0" Body="Dynamo-hubs are wheel hubs that contain an electricity-generating mechanism (dynamo) that converts wheel motion into electricity to power lights or other accessories on a bicycle. They form an integral part of the wheel in contrast to bottle dynamos that are affixed separately to the bike." OwnerUserId="12861" LastEditorUserId="12861" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T16:47:43.207" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T16:47:43.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23512" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:39:11.420" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T13:39:11.420" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T13:39:11.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23513" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:39:11.420" Score="0" Body="The crankset is the combination of components that convert motion from the rider's leg movements into rotational motion to drive the chain and propel the bike. The crankset includes one or more chainrings (sprockets) and the two cranks, or arms, to which the pedals are attached." OwnerUserId="12861" LastEditorUserId="12861" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T16:47:53.190" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T16:47:53.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23514" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:45:51.640" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T13:45:51.640" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T13:45:51.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23515" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:45:51.640" Score="0" Body="Hybrid bikes combine elements from different types of specialised bikes to make a bicycle suitable for a wide range of riding conditions, which can include road riding, commuting, or leisure riding on tracks and rougher surfaces. They usually provide a semi-upright comfortable riding position, and come fitted with slick or semi-slick tyres. Accessories such as mudguards and luggage are often fitted as standard." OwnerUserId="12861" LastEditorUserId="12861" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T14:23:07.857" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T14:23:07.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23518" CreationDate="2014-07-09T13:55:39.710" Score="8" ViewCount="14461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had my mountain bike for three summers now and I love it.  I bought it for the ability to ride on different terrains and build endurance.  Since my primary goal is weight loss and cardiovascular health, I've found that I ride mostly on paved surfaces during typical rides.  I do often ride on bike trails for long endurance rides.  These trails consistently have crushed limestone surfaces, as well as pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've considered purchasing road tires due to my extensive presence on pavement, but how well do road tires perform on crushed limestone and/or tightly packed gravel?  Do road tires sink a little on crushed limestone, causing lots of friction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to spend the money on the conversion just to find the answer on this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be riding on paved &amp;amp; crushed limestone/gravel during the same ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12909" LastEditorUserId="12909" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T18:07:15.343" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T02:42:46.367" Title="Mountain bike tires vs. road tires - from crushed limestone to pavement" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21840" CreationDate="2014-07-09T14:26:35.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They lock up &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r8lNO.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pawl and teeth&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretend just 1 pawl and just 1 tooth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crank is fixed - left and right chainring spin at same rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub is fixed - left and right pawl spin at same rpm.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The green part is attached to the hub that is attached to the wheel.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The teeth are attached to the cogs that are attached to the chain.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gearing&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2:1 left  (higher faster)  assume 32 chainring and 16 freewheel&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1:1 right  assume 32 chainring and 32 freewheel    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left freewheel spins at twice the rpm of right. &#xA;Freewheels are attached to each other via the cogs, chains, chainrings, and crank. &#xA;They are directly attached - left freewheel must spin at twice the rpm of right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Both pawl and freewheel are in forward&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That little spring is pointed to the front of the bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The front wheel is to the left of the picture.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Both pawl start at 12 (of clock).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Left tooth at 12 and engaged.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Right (lower) tooth 3.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Turn the crank 1/4 revolution.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Left higher (2:1) is now at 6.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Right lower is also at 6.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the right since the pawl (hub) is faster than the freehwheel it slips (coasts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Freewheel and pawl opposite&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Right freewheel and pawl forward (spring pointed to front).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Left freewheel and pawl reverse - (spring point to rear).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Picture is now the right (lower gear) and the front font wheel is to the right.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Left start at 12 engaged.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Right start at 3.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pedal 1/4 turn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Left and right are now both at 6.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But now the right does not slip - the right engages.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Both pawls are engaged.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The left is engaged by tooth force on pawl.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The right is engaged by pawl force on tooth.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At this point they lock up.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For every two chain links the right is trying pushing out the left side is only taking one.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The pawls are attach to the same hub.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The left and right side of the hub cannot rotate at a different rpm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:56:38.033" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:56:38.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23516" CreationDate="2014-07-09T14:38:19.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for city or touring tires.  Road in bicycle means more of a racing tire.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tire like this go pavement and packed nicely &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle_de_en/themes/city/travelcontact_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Travel CONTACT&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;Almost all manufacturers will have tires like this. &#xA;A road type tread in the middle but a little grip on the edges for if you do sink a little. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great answer from Batman (+1) but I don't think the Gravel Plus is an optimal tire for the needs you state.  One it does not come in a 26 but you did not state that in the original question.  The Gravel Plus is a relatively light race inspired tire.  I commute on cyclycross that I also ride on light trails and I was buying the most roady &quot;cyclocross&quot; I could find and was burning through them every 6 months because they are soft light race inspired tires and not designed to be run on the street.  I finally figured out to look in touring / city with a bit of tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes a 25mm pure road tire will sink in gravel. But don't get a 25mm tire. Get a tire the width of your current knobby or slightly less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You stated you have 26 X 2.1 now. If you sink a bit now then stay at that width.  If you don't sink then I would drop down to 1.75.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T17:34:32.950" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T17:34:32.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23516" CreationDate="2014-07-09T14:42:45.747" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gravel tires are normally a little knobby:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8XB7N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;gravel grinder tire&quot;&gt; versus completely smooth for a road tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;One strategy&lt;/a&gt; is to run a gravel or combination tire in the front and a road tire in the back. A combination tire is one which is nearly slick in the middle with knobs on the sides, so you might want to try one road tire on the back and one gravel tire on the front. Combination tires aren't great at road or off road, but they're passable on each. Certainly will be an improvement if you're running big knobby tires on the road, but not as much of an improvement as if you went to complete slicks. Two combo tires might be more durable than a combo/off road tire and a road tire though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue is that gravel is sharper than asphalt, so you'll want a bit tougher of a tire. On the other hand, if you're mostly on the road, knobs are bad. So you'd have to play around with it to some extent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what its worth, I currently have an old mountain bike with Geax Evolution tires on the front and back (they're combination tires). If the gravel is packed enough and you're not overly zealous, they seem to work fine. The rolling resistance on the road isn't bad either (though they are a bit noisy, and you'll want to play with tire pressures for gravel and road). Another good option might be something like Kenda Kwick or WTB All Terrain or Specialized Burrough (all slightly more expensive and not exactly equivalent, but the idea is there). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T14:42:45.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23495" CreationDate="2014-07-09T17:04:50.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;But expedition bikes are not limited 26&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Salsa makes two:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/bikes/2014_vaya_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vaya&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/bikes/2014_fargo_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fargo&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see no advantage to a 26&quot; wheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700 / 29 is more efficient (both 622 iso)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;29 off roads better than 26&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are making very strong 700 / 29 now.  Downhill bikes use 29.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With disc brake my experience is better wheel availability than 26&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My experience is a more availability of 700 / 29 tires than 26&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as building:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you start from a 700 road tourer they are not designed for wider tires you want for off road.  And is not going to have the ground clearance you want for off road.  I would say a high end tourer is rugged enough.  You are going to get a bike that is designed to carry a load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you start with a 29 mtn bike then you get all the off road characteristics you want.  You can put large tires on it that go from street to trail.   The problem there is you are not going to get a bike that was designed to carry a load.  Many will have braze on for a rear rack.  Most likely no mounts for a front rack.   And it was not designed for more inclined road touring position.  If you just put mtn drop bars on it then it is going to be low.  You need a frame that was designed for mtn drops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T17:04:50.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23501" CreationDate="2014-07-09T20:15:46.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use an old spoke nipple. Slide it over the end and crimp with an electrical (stake-on/solderless connector) crimper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T20:15:46.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23501" CreationDate="2014-07-09T20:34:44.877" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can cut an aluminum soda can into a small strip and wrap that around and fold it like a tiny burrito into the end. Crimp with pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/avdw2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture lovingly misappropriated from &lt;a href=&quot;http://billgrady.com/wp/2002/11/14/how-to-wrap-a-burrito/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://billgrady.com/wp/2002/11/14/how-to-wrap-a-burrito/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T02:43:14.967" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T02:43:14.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2014-07-09T20:45:51.677" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disks are way more reliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I had a bike that had a disk in the rear of one of my bikes, in case my front brake broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day it did; the whole right arm hit a tree and disabled it and the disk I was still using stopped me on the trail just fine. I then put a disk on the front since they hit stuff if you are into that type of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12916" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T05:43:27.287" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T05:43:27.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23501" CreationDate="2014-07-09T20:50:19.497" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have actually used these options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epoxy glue: let it dry a little before applying. It is too liquid just after mixed, so let it dry and use it like if it were modelling putty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thin cooper wire from a telephone cord. Wounded it around the end of the cable. It would look like a bass guitar string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solder wire applied cold, wound a couple of turns and crimp it with pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thin metal office supplies used for holding pieces of paper together (fasteners and similar) cut into small pieces and crimped with pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failed attempts were made with masking tape, electrical tape and duct tape. Soldering it was also a fail for me, the molten solder would not adhere to the steel cable, that's why I ended just crimping it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:55:37.703" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:55:37.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7133" CreationDate="2014-07-10T03:14:49.077" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am continuously amazed at the overemphasis placed on the weight of bikes. Yes it is important, but relative to other factors in deciding which bike to buy it is not that significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets compare a 20lb bike to a 24lb bike. If your budget is $1000 for a new bike, would you choose a 20lb bike with very good components and a so-so feel/fit, or a 24lb bike with the correct feel/fit and superior components. The heavier bike is 20% heavier...but lets ask more questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On your typical ride, how many long steep climbs are there? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How often do you need to do long/hard accelerations?&#xA;I ask these because the only time weight is a significant factor is while climbing or accelerating. In flat or nearly flat sections of a ride weight is virtually insignificant. And, BTW for all the climbs you do there is presumably equal descents, during which time more weight works to your advantage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What (other than weight) can quickly sap your energy?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rough gear changes due to less effective derailleurs (even small jolts can break your rhythm and stroke)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor body position due to improper fit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor technique. (My 80 yr old mother regularly swims 1-1.5 miles, and can only do so because of a lifetime of swimming distances which require excellent breathing and stroke techniques. I can bike 40 miles NP but can only swim a few laps, because my technique sucks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much do you weigh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you weigh 165lb then the difference between the two bikes, including rider weight, is 2%!!! Would you trade that for better components? If you're buying a new bike and are more than 10lb overweight, which is the vast majority of us, you can expect to save more in weight by riding than you can buying a lighter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, unless you are competing, an additional 5% on your ride time is not nearly as important as how much you enjoy the ride, which comes from (among other things) overall bike quality and fit, not weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spend your money on overall bike feel/fit and quality of components. Save weight by riding more. Do not worry unnecessarily about 1MPH or 3 minutes during a 1 hr ride. We are riding to enjoy life and the experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12919" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T09:21:25.190" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T09:21:25.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23437" CreationDate="2014-07-10T05:21:41.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/blevel.jsp?ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181679&amp;amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302051118&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano's website&lt;/a&gt;, they are non-series components. However, some websites such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://roadcyclinguk.com/tech/ultimate-winter-hack-build-part-three-brake-clearance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; claim they are Ultegra quality (This wouldn't surprise me with Colin's answer). In any case, none of the Shimano long reach calipers are part of a series anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, TRP (e.g. RG957) among others still make high quality long reach calipers if you're willing to pay for them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T05:41:17.967" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T05:41:17.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23516" CreationDate="2014-07-10T07:52:15.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have 26&quot; tyres currently, there are certainly &quot;slicker&quot; options available to you. I think its quite easy to obtain tyres which go down to about 1.25&quot; wide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not the crazy narrow 23mm (or less) that you might typically see on a road bike (and really, these bikes can only be ridden on the road), but on tarmac/asphalt you'll certainly notice a difference if you're currently riding 2.1&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think ultimately you will have to work out a trade. The narrower the tyre, the better performance you'll get on the road, but the worse performance you'll get on gravel. You might need to do a bit of trial and error here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to say that you will either ride road or gravel, but not both in a single ride. One other option therefore is to keep two sets of wheels, one with narrow slicks on, the other with your current tyres. Obviously this is quite a costly solution but you do win in terms of having the most &quot;ideal&quot; tyres on any given ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T07:52:15.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21846" CreationDate="2014-07-10T11:15:19.790" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ISO freewheel thread standard is &lt;strong&gt;1.375&quot; x 24tpi&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most freewheels I have encountered have been ISO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some hubs use &quot;British&quot; threading at &lt;strong&gt;1.370&quot; x 24tpi&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use an ISO freewheel on a British thread, it will work, but you should check there is enough thread engagement to avoid stripping the hub. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/complete_freewheels/white_industries_eno_trials/c16p77.html&quot;&gt;The trials-oriented retailer TartyBikes suggests 9 thread is enough&lt;/a&gt; (Trials bikes often run a freewheel at the crank using a 1.370&quot; x 24tpi thread)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Italian freewheel thread is &lt;strong&gt;1.378&quot; x 24tpi&lt;/strong&gt;: Fine on ISO, but even shallower thread engagement on British hubs than ISO on British. Still viable though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;French freewheel thread is &lt;strong&gt;1.366&quot; x 25.4 tpi&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;34.7 x 1mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tried mixing 24tpi with 25.4tpi at the same diameter, the threads would be strained and with enough engagement would eventually jam. As the French diameter is smaller, an Italian, ISO or British freewheel will just about thread on but will have very little thread contact and will slip under load, blunting the hub threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Metric BMX&lt;/em&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;M30 x 1[mm]&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;1.181&quot; x 25.4 tpi&lt;/strong&gt;. This is a small enough diameter that all the above sized freewheels will be obviously sloppy on an M30 hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen an &lt;strong&gt;M35 x 1&lt;/strong&gt; freewheel, but it seems close enough to &lt;strong&gt;French&lt;/strong&gt; that it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mini-freewheel&lt;/em&gt; (Which I've seen on some DMR Revolver hubs) is &lt;strong&gt;1.18&quot; x 24tpi&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mini-freewheel&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Metric BMX&lt;/em&gt; are close enough to cause trouble. The diameters are within tolerance but there will be strain on the threads and the hub threads will be less snug if you later replace the freewheel with the correct item.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&quot;&gt;Praise be to Sheldon.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastEditorUserId="7984" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T11:29:30.607" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T11:29:30.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23534" CreationDate="2014-07-10T13:01:42.213" Score="18" ViewCount="46372" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How long does an aluminium frame lasts in a touring bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Removed extra questions to be clear.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I preferred aluminium vs. steel for many reasons, but if steel lasts significantly longer, for my next touring bike I will go for steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20070815183720/http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/04/ce/model-4FSFF.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cannondale Badboy 2004&lt;/a&gt; has a crack in the alu-frame. I was surprised by this, I thought my bike will last 20+ years easily. The workshop they said this is a high quality, strong frame, but after 10 years alu frames can get tired. Especially if I use my bike both in winter and summer, as the heat change wear alu faster. They say it can be welded, which will cost significantly less vs. a new frame (if it is available), but I should be prepared for other cracks to appear. The workshop contracts a welder specialized in bike frame welding and repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a scientific research article on this topic. If someone has access to ScienceDirect (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1350630710001317&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cicero et al. (2011): &lt;em&gt;Analysis of the cracking causes in an aluminium alloy bike frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;), I'd be interested in the conclusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in touring bikes, not road bikes, city bikes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm happy to update/clarify my question if needed, make a comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Topics I have researched:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3498/maintenance-on-an-aluminium-frame&quot;&gt;Maintenance on an Aluminium frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8802/which-type-of-frame-is-better-for-a-touring-bike-steel-or-aluminium&quot;&gt;Which type of frame is better for a touring bike, steel or aluminium?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11160/is-it-possible-to-repair-a-dent-on-an-aluminium-frame&quot;&gt;Is it possible to repair a dent on an aluminium frame?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/19085/what-are-the-pros-and-cons-between-an-aluminium-and-carbon-frame&quot;&gt;What are the pros and cons between an aluminium and carbon frame?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4900/is-torque-relevant-for-steel-aluminium-where-do-i-find-torque-specs&quot;&gt;Is torque relevant for steel/aluminium? Where do I find torque specs?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/718/non-steel-frames-and-longevity/&quot;&gt;non-steel frames and longevity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/aluminum-welding-cracked-frame-134600.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/aluminum-welding-cracked-frame-134600.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/repairing-a-cracked-frame&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/repairing-a-cracked-frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crack in the alu frame near the rear axe&lt;/strong&gt; (the bike is upside down):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F66wb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crack near the rear axe&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T01:37:37.023" Title="How many years an aluminium frame lasts in a touring bike?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20447" CreationDate="2014-07-10T16:15:26.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Points to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A touring specific general bike is probably better, vs. the custom frame of a generalist shop.&lt;/strong&gt; Geometry, strength, details (braze ons, eyelets, racks, etc.). If it is a not from a touring expert, your bike can be actually worse for touring vs. a touring expert's general bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it a custom sized frame of an otherwise stock bike, or is it built from ground up?&lt;/strong&gt; The latter is a good way to go, for the latter, you need a couple of tours behind you to tell what you need. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The comfort on your bike is primarily determined by the contact points&lt;/strong&gt; (unless the bike is way too small or way too big): handlebar, saddle, pedals. For example, my experience shows that gel tape improves more hand comfort (30 USD) on touring vs. suspension forks (300 USD).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the budget, make a custom built frame. It's expensive, and the price/performance ratio is low (the benefit you get is probably marginal vs. the investment), but why not. It will be your bike, made for you, it's a great feeling, and people easily spend more money to upgrade the stereo in their car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However, the custom frame has to come from a touring expert workshop, who also manufacture several different stock touring bikes.&lt;/strong&gt; So the basics about geometry (chainstay, wheelbase, fork angle) are fit for touring. Koga, IDworx, Tout-terrain are good examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own experience is that the more I tour, the less I care about the bike, and focus more on the journey. At the beginning, I worried a lot, now, I just use the bike I have. It has 8 hub gears, but it doesn't stop me to go for several days of touring, even with hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T16:15:26.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-10T16:33:52.033" Score="8" ViewCount="1534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there is a subjective feeling of &quot;newness&quot; to a bike which is straight out of the box. What is it mechanically and aesthetically that creates that?  What can I do to prolong, preserve or restore this state?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.b. I know of course that simply maintaining the bike goes a long way to doing this, but is there anything specific that can be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12879" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:55:15.720" Title="How do I keep a bike feeling &quot;new&quot;?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23531" CreationDate="2014-07-10T16:47:49.593" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aesthetically, it's just a case of keeping it clean. Use a toothbrush to clear accumulated dirt out of the little nooks and crannies, like the joints between tubes (especially around the bottom bracket). Waxing the frame can help keep that brand-new lustre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The back of the chainring and spider, sprockets, rear hub, and dropouts, can get grotty pretty quickly, so use a gentle degreaser to keep on top of it. Same for the chain. Use a brush to get all the little bits of road dirt out of the links, then, with a clean brush, apply oil liberally. Brush it right in there. Wipe off any excess afterwards. As far as the feeling of mechanical &quot;newness&quot; goes, a clean, well-oiled drivetrain is the biggest contributor IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ktTXjSqvJc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike cleanliness pr0n&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-08-02T19:45:36.007" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T19:45:36.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23531" CreationDate="2014-07-10T17:01:06.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when you take a bike out of the box, it's disassembled. I'm guessing that this isn't what you are referring to :P. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want your bike just like when you got it from the bike shop, there's a few easy things you can do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep your tires inflated to the proper pressure.  If you get a decent pump, it should be easy to keep the tires inflated.  Depending on what type of pressure you have in your tires, you should probably check the pressure at least once a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the chain clean and lubricated. You can use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-gang-cleaning-system-CG-2-2&quot;&gt;chain cleaner&lt;/a&gt; to clean the chain.  How often depends on how dirty the conditions you ride in.  Then apply some new chain lubricant and wipe off the excess.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, you should check for loose parts every once in a while. It's usually easier and cheaper to fix it when it first becomes loose than after you've been using it for a prolonged period when it was loose.  Crank arms are known to come loose and can be easily damaged beyond repair if you used when loose.  Along the same lines, replace brake pads when they need to be replaced, not after you hear the sound of metal grinding on metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T17:01:06.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23529" CreationDate="2014-07-10T17:09:50.593" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of question so I will settle on the one in the title.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many years will an current aluminum frame last of a touring bike?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't know what aluminum frame&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Construction is a larger factor than material &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't know the use&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Use is a larger factor than material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't know how you are going to care for the bike&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Care/maintenance is larger factor than material &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum has not changed in the 10 years &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All we know is your last aluminum, high quality, strong frame bike lasted about 10 years   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best guess is your next aluminum, high quality, strong frame will also last 10 years&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Really that is the best guess  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is as vague as how long will a current pair of sneakers last me?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And the best guess for how long my next pair of sneakers will last is how long did my last pair last.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aluminum fatigues and steel does not fatigue. &#xA;As stated in a comment steel does fatigue - well not always. Mild steel will not normally admit fatigue crack growth if the applied stresses are below about 10% of the strength of the material. Materials, such as aluminium alloys, do not have any such fatigue limit. If a cyclic load is applied, aluminium alloys will always fatigue.  For the same strength a steel bike is typically going to be heavier than aluminum.  But you get a bike that is much much less susceptible to fatigue.  With steel you also get a bike that will take a ding (dent) and not compromise structural strength to the extent of aluminum. Not exactly the same thing but at the molecular level they are related. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=29&quot;&gt;Frame Materials&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found a quoted number.  Just because it was on the Internet does not make it right but here is a 5-10 year quote.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/87520-bike-frame-aluminum-vs.-steel/&quot;&gt;Bike Frame: Aluminum Vs. Steel&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Aluminum frames possess the shortest fatigue life of any material used&#xA;  to manufacture bicycle frames. The typical aluminum frame possesses a&#xA;  life expectancy of five to 10 years. The fatigue life of steel is much&#xA;  longer, but the material requires more maintenance. To prevent rust&#xA;  formation steel frames must be cleaned and polished regularly and&#xA;  periodically coated with rust stop on the interior of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are discounting steel because it will rust then you are not caring for the bike properly.  A properly maintained and stored steel bike should not rust.  And for sure it should not rust out in your life time.   You stated bikes from you fathers era lasted 40-50 years - pretty sure they were steel bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want fatigue free and rust free then get titanium.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T15:44:55.287" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T15:44:55.287" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23531" CreationDate="2014-07-10T19:44:02.653" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One proven way to retain the &quot;new&quot; feeling of a bike is to keep adding new parts to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a well known (I would say proven but can't find the article) fact that people experience a noticeable performance boost when riding a new bike or upgrading gear. This expectation of better performance actually does lead to a small performance increase. The same thing happens when upgrading a bike, you think these wheels will make me faster and lo and behold you rode a little quicker that day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cheaper and more mundane things you can do to retain a bikes newness feeling such as clean and maintain that other posters have suggested. But the bottom line is each time you ride a bike things stretch and wear. Little things such as listed below Will help to maintain the new-ness feel of a bike.: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tightening you gear shifter cables occasionally can have a big impact on how crisp your gear changes feel. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a periodic brake bleed on hydraulic discs will keep them feeling new.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tighten everything back to the right torque will stop creaks.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ensure your cockpit hasn't moved around too much will keep the feel right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;service suspension every 30/40 hours. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep air at your chosen level will maintain grip and feel. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and keep everything lubed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-07-12T03:38:18.947" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T03:38:18.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23501" CreationDate="2014-07-10T19:56:32.147" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The empty ink-tube of a ballpoint pen makes good cable ends. The metal ones may be squeezed into place. If you have a plastic one cut off 1 cm, put over the cable end and heat with a flame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T19:56:32.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23495" CreationDate="2014-07-10T21:02:52.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Expedition bikes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will see &amp;quot;expedition&amp;quot; bike at manufacturers who are specialized in touring bikes, and have many models. The marketing department needs to differentiate somehow, so the common groups are called trekking, touring, expedition. But this can vary, and for me the expedition is usually the top bike in their offering, with the most expensive gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually there are three categories in marketing to sell products, a low range (silver), a medium range (gold), and a top of the range (platinum), or whatever name you call it. The top of the range is usually the product with all the bells and whistles. Only a few customers buy it, but the idea behind is to make it available, so if somebody wants to buy it, it is there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roseversand.de/produkte/fahrraeder/trekking-bikes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.roseversand.de/produkte/fahrraeder/trekking-bikes/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.en.tout-terrain.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.en.tout-terrain.de/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;26&amp;quot; vs. 700C&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More of a personal preference choice then a real rational one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People often quote that 26&amp;quot; wheels are easier to come by in rural areas. This is a myth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Schwalbe Marathon (or similar from Schwalbe) has a history to go 10-20000 km without puncture on tours. Read the blogs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carry one or two sets of spare tyres. You don't want to continue on cheap tires for 1000+ miles/km.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the very rare case that you blow up your spare tire, you can mail order to your next destination. Of course, you need to get the contacts of the shop before you leave home.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you rims fail, this because you had poor rims. Get a Rigida Andra 30 frame before you leave on a longer tour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before mail order, and before Schwalbe this myth was true, but it is not anymore. Now we have DHL, TNT, internet, mobile phone, iPad, and a whole range of puncture proof, long lasting tyres, comfortable ballon tyres in foldable version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, the wheel size preference on a single bike boils down to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26&amp;quot; is easier to maneuver (lower center of gravity), and has an extra gear uphill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700C is faster, has an extra gear to go fast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read this article:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2011/12/700c-vs-26-inch-wheel-size-for-touring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cyclingabout.com/index.php/2011/12/700c-vs-26-inch-wheel-size-for-touring/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The writer chose 700C for single bike (speed preference), and 26&amp;quot; for tandem (strength preference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handlebars:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK, US, Australia - almost always drop bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Europe (Germany, Netherlands, France, etc.) - flat or butterfly bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing of a touring handlebar is to offer at least two positions for the hand, to prevent sore. A butterfly offers 5, a drop bar offers typically 3, a flat bar with Ergon grips offers 2. Note that you cannot convert a bike from drop bars to butterfly/flat without compromising your sitting positon.  Thorn bikes have a long article on this in their bike selector booklet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is important for me in a touring bike:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Geometry: 45 cm chainstay to fit panniers. Long wheelbase (110 cm) also helps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comfortable contact points: saddle, handlebar, pedals. Probably you need to change these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strong rims (Rigida Andra 30), strong racks (Tubus), strong-puncture proof tyres (Schwalbe Marathon).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest is personal preference, and depends on the budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T22:08:15.440" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23539" CreationDate="2014-07-10T22:17:23.087" Score="6" ViewCount="11880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this in my local supermarket, as they are having a cycling event on at the moment. I was thinking this would be quite useful if I had a puncture away from home, the car or bike repair shop, or in case of an emergency, as let's face it, who wants to repair a tyre at night in the pouring rain? I certainly also do not want to ride with a flat tyre, as it can destroy the tire and wheel rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I am talking about: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What pros and cons are these to these sprays?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I used this, would I be able to repair the puncture, and reuse the inner tube afterwards? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do they actually work? (Implies 1!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is &quot;temporary&quot;, so how far could I cycle before I have any more problems?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am talking about the sprays in general, not specific brands (e.g in the image)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Also, I would not want to remove the tyre at all (i.e. so I do not want to carry a spare tube). I am talking about its effectiveness as a &quot;quick fix&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dead link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.baileysbigstore.co.uk/carmotoring/carmotoringpics/cycletyrefix5292.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.baileysbigstore.co.uk/carmotoring/carmotoringpics/cycletyrefix5292.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible contenders for &quot;similar product&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/THZ5d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/THZ5d.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eX2ib.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eX2ib.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10939" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T00:29:29.813" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T00:29:29.813" Title="&quot;Quick Fix&quot; Tyre Repair Spray Cans" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23538" CreationDate="2014-07-10T23:01:11.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pro's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May be a quick roadside fix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May be able to fix without removing tyre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May last a long time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May offer protection against a second puncture in the same wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Con's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expensive for a puncture.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bulky and heavy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only one can per tyre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wouldn't be suitable for some punctures and would be a waste if you didn't realise this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fix may work for a long time, dependent on the sealant and whether it degrades. Silicon sealants do not degrade quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of system is good for small punctures where you can quickly identify the cause and eliminate it. If you have a large puncture (such as a tear or a cut) the sealant may not be able to effectively seal it and once the air leaks you would not be able to re-inflate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it's best practice to ensure you remove the cause of the puncture before inflating a flat tyre. This generally involves removing the tube and checking the tyre so you're not actually saving that much.. If you don't do this you may get a subsequent puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are that adverse to fixing a tyre in the rain or at night use a preventative treatment rather than a temporary repair such as this. Use slime tubes (or fill tubes with slime) or move to tubeless and use a sealant such as Stan's. I ride single track twice a week and have put a single scoop of Stan's in each tubeless wheel 6 months ago and have yet had to remove the tyre. I occasionally add air (probably a month ago and this week) so I know I have a leak somewhere but it hasn't required me to fix it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T04:13:48.607" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T04:13:48.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23538" CreationDate="2014-07-11T01:21:14.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slime is lighter and conveniently pre-applied in the convenience of you own own home/garage.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slime.com/shop/tube-sealant/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slime tube sealant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for can the tube be repaired?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The PedalPower can says temporary but not exactly sure what that means.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As for Sime if it seals a small puncture I just stay with Slime only. If it is a larger puncture it might be too big to repair period. I have tried to patch over Slime but it is hard as if any Slime gets out the glue won't stick.  Yes you need to remove the debris that caused the puncture but if it gets you home then can do it in the convenience of your home/garage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T14:16:13.827" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T14:16:13.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23457" CreationDate="2014-07-11T02:11:04.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rapha provides a free repair service for their items that have succumb to crashes: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rapha.cc/at/en/repair-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.rapha.cc/at/en/repair-service&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Precis of linked website:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repair Service Policy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rapha offers a free repair service where a crash or accident has damaged a garment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This service also applies to garments outside the 30 day return policy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that repairs can take up to 4 weeks to process, once they have been received by our repairs team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excluded garments: All Base Layers, T-shirts, Polo Shirts, Shirts, Merino Sweatshirts, Track/Hooded Tops, Merino Roll Necks, Merino Boxers, Merino Arm/Knee/Leg Warmers, Socks, Oversocks, Overshoes, Merino Gloves, Hats/Caps, Scarfs, Snood/Collar, Backpack Covers, Belts, Bidons, Essentials cases, Custom products and Rapha + GORE-TEX products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5358" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T11:57:15.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23516" CreationDate="2014-07-11T02:42:46.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done quite a bit of touring on my Surly Long Haul Trucker which includes 1,000 + kilometres of dirt riding &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkGmP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my Surly for such tours I fitted Schwalbe Marathon Mondial HS 428 47-622 tyres and prior to that for an early tour again with a fair bit of dirt roads I fitted Schwalbe Marathon Cross HS 334 700Cx38. Both tyres have proven to be more than adequate performers on the dirt and road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also have quite good puncture protection but on the downside they can be heavy.  Schwalbe do offer similar tyres in 26&quot; so may be worth a look.  They also have a very handy rating system for their tyres which makes deciding that much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkGmP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkGmP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; For those interested you can read more about the tour on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://aushiker.com/chasing-the-dirt/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;blog here&lt;/a&gt;.  The photo was taken on the Carnarvon to Mullewa leg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&#xA;Andrew&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T02:42:46.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-11T03:53:07.587" Score="3" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've had at least two flat tires on my way to work. Therefore, I'm tempted to splurge on  a pair of Specialized Armadillo's (not the elites...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am not a particularly skilled rider.  I had a pair of racing slicks from the late 1990's (&lt;em&gt;at the latest!&lt;/em&gt;) and they were a tad on the nightmarish side - I slid out at 5 miles an hour trying to leave a parking lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously - &lt;strong&gt;slicks were enough to give me an existential crisis&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, I'm notorious for being, err, close, yea, that's it.  &lt;em&gt;Close&lt;/em&gt; to late.  As such, I don't really like flat tires.  My choices at the bike shop came down to this: cheap gumwall tire &lt;em&gt;with treads&lt;/em&gt; and Kevlar Inserts, or a pair of Armidillo's which have minimal treads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which should I choose? I commute in all weather conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed is nice, but I really care more about not dying and not calling in late from the side of the road than minimizing rolling resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T22:34:44.783" Title="Armadillo's or Kevlar Inserts?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23543" CreationDate="2014-07-11T04:16:26.503" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your sliding out at 5mph wasn't because the tires were slicks, it was for some other reason. They were either lousy tires, improperly installed, rider error, or some other factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding on the road, there is no need for any kind of tread. Slicks are perfectly fine, despite your thoughts from your previous experience. In fact, they are ideal, and will be easier to handle on the road than tires with tread. A definitely don't get any of those combination tread tires, those are the worst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget the treaded tires with kevlar inserts. Get the Armadillos, Continental Gatorskins, or some other sort of flat resistant tire. Make sure they are always pumped up before you ride, and they'll serve you well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T04:16:26.503" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18767" CreationDate="2014-07-11T05:03:48.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, assuming a pedal rpm of 90, your speed with the 42/11 would be about 26.5-27 mph. with a 48/11, 30-30.5 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cranks must be compatible with the bottom bracket; for example, square taper.&#xA;With the 6 tooth larger chain-ring, you may need to replace the front derailleur.&#xA;You'll need a longer chain with a larger chain-ring. And remember, your low gears will also be somewhat higher due to the larger chain-rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2014-07-12T06:59:37.630" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T06:59:37.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14928" CreationDate="2014-07-11T05:18:05.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That comes down whether the internal mechanism of the different Nexus 3 hubs are the same or not. My guess is they are the same. Some options for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue with a Nexus 8 hub. In the end I checked with a Shimano&#xA;approved service center in near me (looked  up on Shimano's page). I&#xA;talked in person to the mechanic, and he knew which would work or&#xA;not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I recommend to buy the gear with the shifters in a set.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A third option could be to buy it on amazon.co.uk, where you have 30 days to return if it doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T05:18:05.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23531" CreationDate="2014-07-11T07:11:45.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good answers above. I would add:: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new bar tape &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wash and service your bike weekly &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy yourself&#xA;new gloves or jersey occasionally - this one is about the bike/human&#xA;relationship :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These things keep the bike running at it's optimum. And yes, allow the bike to mature. It gains character.&#xA;If you look after your bike, it's not the bike that changes but you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12927" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T07:11:45.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-11T07:33:48.260" Score="5" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend high quality cycling-centric films? Can you recommend good sources (for example, publishers, distributors, vendors, etc.) to locate these films?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12879" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditorDisplayName="user12879" LastEditDate="2018-04-13T21:16:24.350" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T21:16:24.350" Title="What are some good films about cycling?" Tags="&lt;bike-culture&gt;&lt;movie&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-07-13T16:26:43.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2014-07-11T07:57:38.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few of my guilty pleasures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hard-boiled:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Greatest Show On Earth ('74 Giro)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0074rgb&quot;&gt;Death on the Mountain: The Story of Tom Simpson&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Soft-boiled:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0472268/&quot;&gt;The Flying Scotsman&lt;/a&gt;, Graeme Obree biopic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quicksilver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0286244/&quot;&gt;The Triplets of Belleville&lt;/a&gt; (originally released in UK as &lt;em&gt;Belleville Rendez-vous&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="7984" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T09:51:35.837" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T09:51:35.837" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-07-13T16:26:43.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2014-07-11T08:13:12.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thesufferfest.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Sufferfest&lt;/a&gt; offer motivational/training videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bromleyvideo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bromley Video&lt;/a&gt; in the UK has lots of DVDs, books, videos etc. of all things cycling - grand tours, races, bios, documentaries, dramatisations. Not particularly cheap but the best selection I've seen in a single place, also some of the DVDs are self-produced so I'd imagine are unavailable elsewhere. I think they also have an eBay outlet, you may find some things cheaper on there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T14:39:48.763" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T14:39:48.763" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-07-13T16:26:43.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2014-07-11T09:05:37.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Great bicycle movies&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goskyride.com/tipsandideas/showarticle/the-top-five-cycling-films-of-all-time&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Top Five Cycling Films of All Time&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/news/featured-stories/9-cycling-movies-you-cant-miss&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;9 Cycling Movies You Can't Miss&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stuff.tv/10-best-cycling-movies-ever/news&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;10 Best Cycling Movies Ever&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.westword.com/showandtell/2012/04/best-bicycle-movie-scenes.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Best Bicycle Movie Scenes&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;All bicycle movies&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_films_about_bicycles_and_cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycleuniverse.info/stuff/movies-documentaries.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Universe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imdb.com/list/ls006333040/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IMDB 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imdb.com/list/ls003620851/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IMDB 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T20:31:19.123" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T20:31:19.123" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-07-13T16:26:43.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23399" CreationDate="2014-07-11T09:35:33.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great answer from James, let me just add a really quick tip.&#xA; Before you go and read 1000 articles about riding position, just try the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise the saddle a tiny bit. Most people ride way too low, and that just leads to knee problems if you start riding greater distances. I know it made a huge difference for me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the cadence so you never feel like you have to &quot;push hard&quot;. Pushing hard can be good training, but only do it if your knees feel comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those should alleviate most of your problems. Other than that, you might just have been exhausted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12929" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T09:35:33.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23538" CreationDate="2014-07-11T13:29:14.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;If I used this, would I be able to repair the puncture, and reuse the inner tube afterwards?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main use in bikes: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bontrager.com/technology/why_tubeless_ready&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tubeless&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; systems / &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tubular_tyre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tubular tyres&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (= sew-up). First, must remedy the cause of the puncture: glass, rim, spoke, etc. Sorry, not for inner tubes as you ask!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyre must be rolling to be effective.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If valve in place application = particles are very small/thin, can help only very small problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two main types:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fiber&lt;/strong&gt; containing - mechanical plugging of the hole, less efficient, can stay in tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Latex&lt;/strong&gt; based (ammonia smell) - hardens, plugs completely, but cures over time, needs to be removed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The prevent punctures with inner tube tyres:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEcFMnuJzsQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Puncture proof liners&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/943&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Puncture proof tyres&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My take:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;These liquids are great for temporary fixes in cars, when it allows to get to the nearest workshop for repair (and otherwise the car would stay where it is).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For inner bike tubes, I see no use of it. Anyway the tyre needs to be removed for inspection, and with that effort a new inner tube can be installed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When touring, the fastest solution is to carry a spare tyre and inner tube, and switch it right away, and inspect the defective tyre at the next stop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have from the first series of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/marathon-plus.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Marathons&lt;/a&gt; on my citybike since 2004, and although it's heavier, I &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; had a flat tyre with that bike ever since. The disadvantage of the Schwalbe puncture proof tyres is the added weight. For touring and citybikes, this is not a concern however.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The price of inner tubes has dropped significantly, I now install a new inner tube after punctures (vs. repaired tube leaks air, takes time) on my non Schwalbe Marathon bikes. For a very cheap bike, repairing the tube with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rematiptop.com/parts.php?sid=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TipTop kit&lt;/a&gt; is a cheaper/better solution vs. a sealant liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/02/19/tubeless-tire-sealant-tech-part-1-how-often-should-it-be-checked-replaced/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tubeless Tire Sealant Tech, Part 1 – How Often Should It Be Checked &amp;amp; Replaced?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T13:29:14.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2014-07-11T14:35:44.173" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old but still worthwhile: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078902/&quot;&gt;Breaking Away&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T14:35:44.173" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-07-13T16:26:43.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2014-07-11T15:33:58.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because I'm a mountain bike guy, and I think the stories and shots are way more interesting (sorry roadies):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wherethetrailends.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Where The Trail Ends&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.anthillfilms.com/strengthinnumbers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strength in Numbers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lifecyclesfilm.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Life Cycles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wontbackdownfilm.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Won't Back Down&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redbull.com/us/en/bike/films/1331645565522/rad-company-mountain-bike-film&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rad Company&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course all the old-school freeride films like Kranked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T15:33:58.130" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-07-13T16:26:43.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23297" CreationDate="2014-07-11T16:38:03.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wanted to put something down about the path I eventually chose, in case it helps anyone in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having talked once again to my optician we agreed that contact lenses would probably not be best for me at the moment. My vision is fine close-up, it's really for distance that I need the glasses. The glasses I have, therefore, are great for driving, but I have to take them off completely when on the computer, say. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the world of contact lenses, this would basically equate to putting a lens in one eye, and leaving the other eye clear. This in turn would stuff up my depth perception. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for the moment, I have gone down the prescription cycling glasses route. The brand I went for was Bollé, purely because I have been using that brand for years so I trust them. I invested in a set of transition lenses purely to try and get away with a single pair of glasses for all conditions - as it was they were horrendously expensive, 300GBP in total with the split being 60GBP for the frame, 240GBP for the lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added:&lt;/strong&gt; transition lenses were too dark for winter days, had to buy clear lenses to go with them. More cost, but it was a good move to buy glasses which support interchangeable lenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-11-15T10:03:22.880" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T10:03:22.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1950" CreationDate="2014-07-11T17:50:58.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sierratradingpost.com/pearl-izumi-select-barrier-wxb-jacket-waterproof-for-men~p~5715m/?showlocalization=True&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pearl Izumi&lt;/a&gt; for 60$ and surprised now to see it almost twice as expensive. Just find a sale with a good discount. Considering that jacket, the hood is large to fit helmet, but without helmet it's much too loose. Also the hood looks ugly when not worn and just hangs on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you may consider wearing cycling poncho. I didn't like that hood on my poncho prevents me from looking backwards, but for off-road use it's not such a big deal as on roads with traffic. Since ponchos are made from non-breathable material they are cheap and sturdy compared to membrane jackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T17:50:58.963" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-07-11T17:50:58.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21237" CreationDate="2014-07-11T19:03:38.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one has really addressed the size versus pressure part of the question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nominally different sized tires will have about the same mass of air.  As the size of the tire goes up the design pressure goes down.  The contact patch must support the weight of the rider.  Assume bike with rider is 100 lbs on the rear wheel.  At 100 psi the size of the contact patch is 1 square inch.  On a bigger tire you can drop the pressure down to get a bigger contact patch.   At 80 psi the same rider would have a contact patch of 1.25 square inches.  You cannot just reduce the pressure on a small tire to get a bigger contact patch  without without banging the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets assume the n in PV=nRT the same in all diameter tires.  If so what would the relationship of diameter to pressure be?  S for small and B for big&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;nS = Pb * Vb / (R * T)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;nB = Ps * Vs / (R * T)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;the assertion (test) is the nS = nB&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pb * Vb / (R * T) =   Ps * Vs / (R * T)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;R * T drops out&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pb * Vb =   Ps * Vs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pb / Ps = Vs / Vb&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pb / Ps = (πrS^2)(2πR) / (πrB^2)(2πR)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pb / Ps = rS^2) / rB^2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pb / Ps = (rS/rB)^2  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Pb / Ps = (rS/rB)^2 then the two tires will have the same mass of air.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the pressure is inversely proportional to diameter squared the two tires have the same mass of air.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's test at 25mm 100psi and see what pressure at 28mm is the same weight&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pb = (25/28)^2 * 100&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pb = 79.7 PSI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your example of 28c at 80 psi versus 25c tire at 100psi&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The answer is almost exactly the same mass  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the question but if you assume the same mass how does contact patch size scale with diameter.  Contact patch is load / pressure &#xA;So that ratio is&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Lb / Pb) / (Ls / Ps)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;but Lb = Ls so&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ps / Pb&lt;br&gt;&#xA;sub in for Pb from above&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ps / Ps * (rS/rB)^2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1 / (rS/rB)^2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(rB/rS)^2  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you keep the mass in the tire constant then the contact patch goes up with the square of the diameter.  And that makes sense since area is proportional to diameter square.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would you keep the mass the same? Because it makes sense. Consider the force the beads must withstand. If the mass is the same then the total force on beads is the same. Same number of molecules will produce the same force. The Force is proportional to pressure * area.  Force is proportional to r^2 * P.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Consider the ratio of the force on beads from big diameter to small at constant air mass.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fb / Fs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pb * rB^2 / Ps * rS^2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;sub for Ps again with constant mass assumption&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ps * (rS/rB)^2 * rB^2 / (Ps * rS^2)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you keep the number of molecules constant then the total force on the beads is constant regardless of tire diameter.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a lot of you are going to think I am full of BS. But various sized diameters have about the same number of molecules in them.  As the diameter goes up the contact patch size goes up with the square of the diameter.  So a 2&quot; tire will nominally have 1/2 the pressure and 4 x the contact size of a 1&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even at the lower pressure a larger diameter is less susceptible to pinch flats because it has further to travel to the rim and it builds area faster relative to deflection.  I know even more of you are not going to believe me on this but even at the lower pressure the pinch resistance is proportional to the diameter squared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T19:17:39.320" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T19:17:39.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23531" CreationDate="2014-07-11T19:09:18.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with most answers, clean it right after use in dirty/muddy environment, regularly clean and service it and periodically change gearshift cables and brake cables (if it applies). Avoid keeping it unprotected outdoors or in humid places. If this doesn't conflicts with your budget: don't let the saddle and grips or bar tape get too old, because depending on design and quality they degrade and show wear marks that the perfectionist eye hates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would add: do not install (too many) accessories or decals. Some people tend to add more and more accessories with time. Adhesive decals, ties, etc. look good when recently applied or installed but over all, they alter bike aesthetic design intent, so when you look at it the image you get is far from being the catalog's photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use paint and plastic/vinyl protectants that smell like new plastic/rubber. When you first get the bike it was probably recently treated with such protectants / embellishments, and if you went to a store, you probably got a lot of that smell, and your brain most likely associated that smell with the new bike. If one gets sloppy with cleaning, sooner or later the bike smells like old lube mixed with dirt, yikes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally: keep an old bike near, change friend/ride buddies regularly, show them the old bike a couple of times then appear with the new one. Nothing says &quot;new&quot; like a few compliments!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:55:15.720" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:55:15.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23531" CreationDate="2014-07-11T19:46:31.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with what everyone else has said, but i'd add.. aside from your frame, your bike SHOULD be pretty much new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A well maintained bike will have all these components replaced on regular inteverals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bar tape (I do this once a year)&#xA;Chain (I do this once or twice a year)&#xA;bottom bracket (maybe every 5 years)&#xA;brake/derailleur cables (once a year)&#xA;Big chain rings (when they get warped)&#xA;Brake pads (once a year)&#xA;Bike tires (once or twice a year)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get the idea...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12937" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T19:46:31.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23543" CreationDate="2014-07-11T22:34:44.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're commuting on roads, there are plenty of good tires with kevlar belts for puncture protection (e.g. Schwalbe Marathon line). Slicks are ideal for roads since you don't need tread - &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is a good page to read about the topic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't say how you got the flats though, so it is possible you had a bad valve or inadequate rim tape or underinflation, none of which a new tire would fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T22:34:44.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23538" CreationDate="2014-07-11T22:43:25.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used similar products in the past with mixed results. The primary benefit is that is both pump and patch so to speak. But it really doesn't replace a spare tube and portable inflator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's mostly good for slow leaks. I used to keep a can in my office and used it for those situations where I came out to the bike rack and found a flat tire. If it works, it works for a reasonably long time. But for most flats it simply doesn't work since the cause of the flat ( nail, glass, wire, etc ) is still in the tire or the size of the hole is simply too large. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also is relatively low pressure, so it's best for fatish commuting tires. My recollection is that it only works with schrader values. I'm pretty sure I ended up replacing any tube I used it on fairly quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T22:43:25.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-12T01:10:25.693" Score="11" ViewCount="3046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that treads don't affect traction very much.  This is why NASCAR cars have smooth tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, the road is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; clean.  They say you can't hydroplane on a bike, but what about a thin patch of mud on the road?  Or spots with some gravel on them?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone says treads don't matter for roads, but they still keep engineering road tires with treads, so I'm curious the degree of benefit that this really provides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-08-17T11:12:20.860" LastActivityDate="2020-08-17T11:12:20.860" Title="How do treads affect traction?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23565" CreationDate="2014-07-12T02:47:57.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;But there is not one traction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have surface that does not slip like asphalt or cement then you want maximum contact. A slick.  That is why Nascar does it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a surface that does slip like gravel or dirt then you want a tire that grabs.  Tread or knobs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mud is whole different beast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water has basically no traction.  Hydroplane is a combination of speed, viscosity, liquid depth, weight, and tire contact surface area.  A bike rarely generates enough speed to hydroplane.  A bike is typically going with small tire diameter for rolling resistance.  Even in a car if you slow down to 40 mph you don't hydroplane.  In a loaded down truck you can 80 mph and not hydroplane. You still get less traction on wet asphalt as wet asphalt is not as sticky.  You did not get lifted off the asphalt (hydroplane) but you still have some loose water molecules on the surface and in the cracks acting as independent ball bearings.  You pushed through the water as a mass but water is still on and in the surface.  Like after no rain for a while and even a little rain it combines for slime.  Water on an oil patch stay away. No amount of tread is going to hold you on water on oil at even 5 mph - hold on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why you see tread on road tires. You assume the tread is &quot;engineered&quot;. For the most part I submit they offer tread because it sells. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mud is a whole different beast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is soup it may have enough viscosity to lift you even at moderate speed. Hang on and hope to get to the other side.  In that case a smaller diameter tire may get you to the bottom.  Like a cyclocross will go 32mm or 28mm and go for the bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it really just a soft solid?  If so a big tire to keep on top with as many knobs as possible to grab onto a loose surface.  It is more like going at sand.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A liquid is defined as cannot sustain a shear force in the absence of motion.  There is a point that mud is liquid or a soft solid.  And the way to go at it from tire standpoint changes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-12T03:51:12.940" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T03:51:12.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23565" CreationDate="2014-07-12T04:39:23.727" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are riding on the road, you don't need treads. Even with mud. Even with sand, or gravel. Unless you are riding on the street in the middle of a volcanic mudslide or torrential rain washing out the road, it won't matter. The curved cross section of your tires coupled with your mass will instantly cut right through any patches of water or mud as you ride through. A bicycle under human power won't &quot;rarely&quot; hydroplane, it will &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; hydroplane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can slide if you ride over sand or fine gravel. The gravel can get between the rubber and road, and cause you to lose traction. However, having treaded tires will not save you. The layer of sand or gravel will be just as slippery to the treads. The treads can't cut through the sand or gravel, because the underlying road cannot deform. The treaded tires will just slide along the pavement, lubricated by the sand or gravel, just like a slick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A behavior you didn't ask about, but you can encounter, is a squirming feeling, that you get if you ride an aggressively treaded tire on the road. This won't happen riding on dirt or sand, because the ground can deform. This squirming and deformation becomes especially troubling when cornering. The sudden transition from smooth to treaded in those silly combination tires, right during a hard corner, is especially nasty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason companies make treads on pure road tires, like Blam suspects, is simply because the majority of bicycling customers don't think about these things in great detail, and think that their bike is just like a car with 2 wheels, and since their car tires have tread, so should their bike tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The takeaway principle is that conditions that will result in a loss of traction on the road, will do so regardless whether you have treads or not. Treads reduce the consistency of your tires surface, and in doing so, makes for a worse road tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T04:39:23.727" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23529" CreationDate="2014-07-12T08:16:11.273" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I researched more on this topic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The short answer is that an aluminium frame can last from a couple of years to 50 years/lifetime.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The long answer is:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The main factor is fatigue&lt;/strong&gt; (not counting accidents): &lt;em&gt;&quot;The tendency of a material (metal) to break under repeated cyclic loading at a stress considerably less then the tensile strength in a static test.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The sign of the end&lt;/strong&gt; of life of an alu structure is a fatigue crack, when the first crack appears, probably more will come. A few years can be gained by welding but it will fail probably at another place. Regular inspection is needed to avoid a total failure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Main factors in aluminium frame fatigue:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Design, manufacturing, welding, material&lt;/strong&gt;: determining factor for 90% of bike owners, as they don't use the bike that much that they would fatigue it with use. We, on this forum, are probably in the other 10%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Environmental conditions&lt;/strong&gt;: saline, humid, big temperature changes increase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use&lt;/strong&gt; (rider weight, terrain): heavier riders fatigue more, and more use over time increases the chance to fail significantly. For heavy users, who buy good frames anyway, and take care of the bike, probably this is the limiting factor. Counting how many km someone can practically tour per year, this limits the frame lifespan to 5-10 years or max ~200 000 km.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recommendations to extend the life of the aluminium frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High quality design-manufacturing-welding can significantly last longer under same conditions, spend money on good frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protect from environmental conditions, don't leave outside in winter, protect from moisture when not in use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride with less weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A practical consequence for me that a second hand aluminium frame bike is risky, needs careful inspection of the frame for signs, and information how much the bike was used, how it was kept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more interesting resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1877705812017225&quot;&gt;Fatigue design of welded bicycle frames using a multiaxial criterion (Procedia Engineering, 2012)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adhocmarinedesigns.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/ProBoat-June-July-2012-Aluminum-Welds.pdf&quot;&gt;Fabrication and Fatigue Failure in Aluminum (Professional Boat Builder, 06 2012)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0001616061902292&quot;&gt;The formation of fatigue cracks in aluminum single crystals (Acta Metallurgica, 1961)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0070569703&quot;&gt;Fatigue Design of Aluminum Components and Structures (Hardcover, 1996)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B0080431526015709&quot;&gt;Sporting Materials: Bicycle Frames (Encyclopedia of Materials: Science and Technology, 2001)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1877705814005931&quot;&gt;Parametric Finite Element Analysis of Bicycle Frame Geometries (Procedia Engineering, 20114)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.twi-global.com/technical-knowledge/faqs/structural-integrity-faqs/faq-what-is-fatigue-failure-and-how-can-it-be-avoided/&quot;&gt;What is fatigue failure and how can it be avoided?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="12749" LastEditDate="2014-07-12T08:48:57.617" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T08:48:57.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-12T16:19:07.047" Score="1" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to buy a bike for use only in summer, mostly on 100% flat terrain (being The Netherlands). However, I would also like to be able to use it as a packing mule and go into the mountains for a week, on-road, once a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take Giant, they have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/nl-nl/bikes/model/expedition.lt/16684/70991/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Expedition LT&lt;/a&gt; for the latter. But, it does come with a hefty price tag (€ 1900). Giant also has the Aero &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/nl-nl/bikes/model/aero.rs.1/16574/71772/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RS1&lt;/a&gt; (€ 1300) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/nl-nl/bikes/model/aero.rs.2/16574/71774/#specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RS2&lt;/a&gt; (€ 900). The RS1 having a completely different frame, being lighter (which is not relevant for me, since 1 kg on 30 kg of bags won't make a difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the Expedition has better Shimano sets, hydraulic disc breaks (although I have my doubts about disc breaks; spoke shearing forces, complexity), etc, but I was just wondering how a bike like the Aero RS2 holds up when going into the mountains, on-road, once a year for a week. It does have mounting holes for front bag carriers, so at least in that sense, it's prepared for it,  but they do call it a 'lite trekking' bike. I just wonder if that means something, or if that is only to give credence to the existence of higher priced ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I may actually miss, is the hydraulic breaks, for their better control. Giant has other bikes too that have hydraulic breaks, like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/nl-nl/bikes/model/futuro.rs.1/16575/71447/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Futuro RS1&lt;/a&gt;, but its front fork has no mounting holes for bag carriers, and it has suspension (which I don't like climbing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12942" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T16:28:32.413" Title="Suitability of Giant Aero RS2 for occaisonal on-road mountain trips" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23570" CreationDate="2014-07-12T16:28:32.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're going on road, a hybrid should be fine (like the Aero RS2) - the gearing and tire size and handling should be reasonable provided you don't go too high on the weight. I'd probably not load it too much though (for that you want something intended for touring). At 30 kg of stuff though, I think I'd look for something more touring bike-y than the Aero RS2 - its part of Giant's casual series and carrying 30 kg of stuff isn't really in the casual realm and you could likely do better for 900 euros in that realm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more reasonable option overall would be to buy a bike that works well outside the week of mountain touring, and rent a bike for the week long mountain trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T16:28:32.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23575" CreationDate="2014-07-12T23:26:38.597" Score="2" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forgive my ignorance, but I have a 2011 Bianchi Pista that I've always ridden fixed. I knew that it had a flip flop hub, but now that I'm looking at it, it appears that I need to actually buy a freewheel to switch it over to freewheel since there is no cog on the other side. Attached photos of each side of the hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yOitD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fixed side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kVvps.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Freewheel side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12947" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-12T23:30:54.663" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T02:25:49.707" Title="Do I have all needed for flip flop swap" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;flip-flop-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23574" CreationDate="2014-07-12T23:36:30.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you need to buy a freewheel. It's almost certainly a standard one so you can go into any LBS and grab whatever they have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing to know is that it should screw on easily by hand. If it doesn't you've either not got the thread started properly, or the thread is the wrong size. Ideally put a tiny bit of grease on it so it'll come off more easily when it wears out. Chain lube is better than nothing if you don't have grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of those things where it's a trivial task that takes less than a minute, but if you stuff it up you have to live without a freewheel or buy a new hub, which usually means a new wheel. So it might be worth paying a bike shop to do it (they should do it on the spot if you bring in the wheel rather than the whole bike, since it's quick and easy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting it off is where you need a special tool. The ratchet mechanism means that putting it on the wheel is the non-rotating direction, but getting it off means having a tool that locks on to the central, non-ratcheting part of the freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-13T02:25:49.707" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T02:25:49.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-13T03:29:25.223" Score="6" ViewCount="7862" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been in my girlfriends back yard for years and I'm under the impression that it's a pretty uncommon bike because I can't find any information on it. Her stepfather spray painted a camo pattern on it, changed out the original handle bars and seat for some Mongoose crap, crashed it, then left it to rot. I just decided to make it a project and was wondering if anyone knew the specs on it and if I could use modern 24&quot; BMX parts on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8ScZo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sears &amp;amp; Roebuck &amp;#39;Ted Williams&amp;#39; Free Spirit 3 wheeler&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only salvageable parts are the frame, rear axle, and basket frame (basket is MIA), it basically needs a complete rebuild and I thought it would be funny to turn it into a pseudo BMX bike. My biggest concern is finding modern wheels for the rear axel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions as I get into this bike a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12950" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-13T05:30:36.670" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T05:42:47.083" Title="Just found a vintage Sears &amp; Roebuck 'Ted Williams' Free Spirit 3 wheeler. Can I modernize it?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23598" CreationDate="2014-07-13T10:10:36.843" Score="1" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my ever first road bike, Revenio 3.0. I'm so excited. Already got my ever first road bike injury as well - those damn cleats are hard to unclip, springs on those shiny new pedals are too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I've noticed that when both rear and front shifters are on their lowest gears (rear - all the way to the right, front - all the way to the left), the chain brushes right side of front derailleur and makes that 'whoosh' sound. That's not right, isn't it? I'm thinking if it's something very easy to adjust, and I can do it myself, or better to take it back to the store?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Also, can you guys tell me about common problems of bikes of this series or Raleigh road bikes in general that better to know?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12954" LastEditorUserId="12954" LastEditDate="2014-07-13T10:17:51.213" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T00:59:04.123" Title="Chain brushes derailleur" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23597" CreationDate="2014-07-13T10:25:00.580" Score="2" ViewCount="19036" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alcohol and brake cleaner seems to be the recommended options for cleaning disc brake rotors. I don't have any of that available currently, so are there any suiltable alternatives to them that can be used safely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T00:50:15.587" Title="Are there any suitable alternatives to alcohol/brake cleaner for cleaning brake rotors?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-13T11:14:47.240" Score="4" ViewCount="1329" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you best train for climbs in a flat area?  I am aiming to tackle some UK climbs in N. Yorks and the Lakes come autumn but I only have access to the flat local countryside at the moment.  I don’t have any specialist equipment to quantify power output (e.g. power meter) or proxy measures of exercise intensity (e.g. pulse meter).   The image below describes the most hilly circuit I can access nearby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XITMs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0D7m1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read around the topic from the following sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/cycling-fitness-tips-climbing-drills.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/cycling-fitness-tips-climbing-drills.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/forum/27585-training-hills-when-you-live-flat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://road.cc/content/forum/27585-training-hills-when-you-live-flat&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kingstonwheelers.co.uk/coaching4.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.kingstonwheelers.co.uk/coaching4.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/no-climb-climbing-bike-workout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/no-climb-climbing-bike-workout&lt;/a&gt; [this offers a suggested workout]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the key pieces of information seem to be as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose weight to improve power to weight ratio.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optimize the bike for climbing by selecting appropriate gears etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a turbo trainer (not possible for me)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Train abroad (not possible for me)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice sprints into a headwind in a big gear – aiming for development of quads and core&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TT training – you spend a similar amount of time at a similar power output as used in longer in alpine climbs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Train on any climb available with a bike loaded shopping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice good pedal technique – on a hill every pedal stroke will count due to the heavier load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interval training at lactate threshold (difficult to characterise without specialist equipment)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all this said I am still unsure how to make the best of the short climbs I have locally.  Is it best to practice in low or high gears?  Is it worth trying to tack on a short sprint at the summit of these climsb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12879" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T11:11:15.497" Title="How do I train for climbing in a relatively flat area?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;&lt;hills&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-13T11:15:06.257" Score="3" ViewCount="2595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a single speed front chainring setup with 52 teeth. I can't find a suitable replacement for my chainring so I am wondering if it is possible to get a chainring with a different  number of teeth, e.g. 48 teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12955" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T06:30:50.657" Title="Can I swap down to a different number of teeth on a chainring" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23582" CreationDate="2014-07-13T12:38:38.717" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this should be possible. Though there are several things you need to check to ensure it is compatible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number of bolts&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;bolt circle diameter&lt;/strong&gt; (BCD). Count the number of bolts, and measure the distance between the centre of two bolts. Then check &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bcd.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Bolt Circle Diameter Crib Sheet&lt;/a&gt; to see what the BCD is. Common sizes are 110 (mountain bike), 130 (road), 135 (Campagnolo) or 144 (track).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain width&lt;/strong&gt;. Most bicycle chains are 3/32&quot; wide, though some singlespeeds use wider 1/8&quot; chains. You want the chain, chainring and sprocket to be the same width. Wider chains and chainrings may last longer, though are a bit heavier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chainring ramps&lt;/strong&gt;. Most chainrings are designed for geared bikes, so have 'ramps' to allow the chain to derail and change from one ring to the other. If the bike is singlespeed, you don't want this, so look for an unramped or singlespeed specific chainring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain length&lt;/strong&gt;. If changing to a smaller chainring, your chain will have to be a bit shorter. So you will have to remove a couple of links from the chain, or adjust your chain tensioner if you are using one. Note if your chainring is worn out, then your chain is probably also worn. So it would be worth replacing the chain with a new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gear ratio&lt;/strong&gt;. For a singlespeed, changing to a smaller chainring will give you a lower gear ratio. So you will have to pedal faster to go at the same speed. This may be preferred, depending on what sort of terrain you ride on, and how fast a cadence you like. If you want to keep a similar gear, you can change the rear sprocket to a larger size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T06:30:50.657" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T06:30:50.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23585" CreationDate="2014-07-13T14:05:28.333" Score="0" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;My chain fell of and got stuck a few days ago (i ride fixed gear) and made a real mess of my back rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed 2 marks on the brake edge of the rim where the chain scraped along.&#xA;they are not very deep (under 1mm) and 1-2cm long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way i can make the rim brakable again, without having to change my brake pads once a week? Since the incident i haven't been using the back brake because of this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12660" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T09:15:27.940" Title="How to reuse a rim after the brake edge has been damaged" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-07-14T12:53:31.410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23584" CreationDate="2014-07-13T14:56:40.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the rim is thick enough still for safe braking, what I'd do is take the tire off the wheel and lightly sand/file the edges of the marks until they're level with the rest of the braking surface. I wouldn't sand/file until the marks are gone since that will likely give warbling and possibly remove too much of the surface. I'd recommend sanding in the direction of the brake travel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18107/fixing-damage-to-brake-rim-surface&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; which the asker has outlined all the normal choices as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Leave it and let it smooth out with use. May take some time and wear down brake pads faster.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lightly sand the worst offending parts with high grit abrasive paper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fill the damage with expoxy (or similar) then sand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the rim (would it worth the labour cost?)&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T14:56:40.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23577" CreationDate="2014-07-13T16:09:46.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, anything is possible, especially if you have access to a oxy-gas welding or brazing torch (or arc/MIG/TIG welder), a grinder with a cut-off wheel and a willingness to cause mayhem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a BMX, it'll be heavy and ungainly, especially around corners. When you pedal, it'll pull to one side as it doesn't have a differential, but it'll be tons of fun and something different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not put a really big wheel on front and turn it into a rocking trike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-09-22T03:16:16.757" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T03:16:16.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23596" CreationDate="2014-07-13T16:23:03.223" Score="0" ViewCount="2751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm Curious about whether it's possible or whether Remedy's frame is designed  for such a replacement. Some bicycles makes it possible to upgrade to longer forks. I searched in Google, some people say that it's bicycle dependent. So, who knows about it, can I do this with Remedy or it just doesn't matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12959" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T22:54:05.693" Title="Replace 140mm fork with 160mm on Remedy 7 27.5 possible?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21227" CreationDate="2014-07-13T18:01:43.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative way to calculate the solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pressure in the tyre is 100psi. Pressure equals force divided by area. The surface area inside the inner tube (for a 700x23c tyre) is (very) roughly 7.2cm x 210cm = 1512cm square [or in square inches = 234insq]. The total forces involved on an unladen wheel are therefore 100 ‘pounds per square inch’ x 234 square inches = 23400 ‘pounds’. By sitting on the bike, one adds another 100 pounds to the wheel and thus to the forces, ie 23500 ‘pounds’. Assuming the inner tube does not change surface area ie the wall in contact with the ground is deformed in shape but overall not stretched or shortened, then the final pressure will be 23500 ’pounds’ divided by 234insq = 100.4 psi.  Overall an increase in pressure by 0.4%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used different assumptions/ approximations to previous posts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions for my inner tube are actually external dimensions rather than internal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The tyre (and therefore the inner tube) is assumed not to measurably stretch when at an appropriate pressure. Similarly the deformation of the tyre wall from curved to flat is assumed not to change the surface area much.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall designed to be relatively quick maths (and for the benefit of reading I simplified to fewer significant figures along the way) so still prone to a largish margin of error.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12960" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T18:01:43.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19085" CreationDate="2014-07-13T18:25:45.557" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happen to own two almost identical mountain bikes other than frame.  One aluminum (Orbea) with Niner carbon font fork.  And the other an all carbon Niner with Niner carbon front fork.  I was looking for a Niner carbon frame and found a whole bike at such a deal I bought it.  Both are single speed and tubeless.  The all carbon has 2.1 tires compared 2.25 on the aluminum.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The carbon just plain rides and performs nicer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Softer ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More efficient pedal action&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lighter - easier to hop the front end and rear end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the bumps nicer&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Same section of roots/rocks I get bounced around less on the carbon and it has the smaller tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advantage aluminum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advantage carbon.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It has more flex and up and down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedal efficiency&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advantage carbon.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It has less flex side to side.  Carbon can have an asymmetric flex pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longevity &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advantage carbon.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Aluminum fatigues.  Carbon does not fatigue.  You ride an aluminum bike long enough and it will fail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catastrophic failure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;????&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is where I think aluminum is given what I consider a false advantage.  If I crush an aluminum can so what if it did not snap - it failed.  If you stress aluminum past the yield point it may not snap but it fails in what I call a catastrophic manner relative to the rider.  Stress aluminum past the yield point and it will deform significantly and you are going down.  Front tire touches frame and you are going down.  Frame / fork must be replaced.  From a rider perspective that is a catastrophic failure.  By strict definition a material scientist would say no that is not catastrophic failure as aluminum plastically deformed - that was not a brittle failure.  So to be fair judge aluminum versus carbon on yield point.  And you need to measure that bike to bike but for the most part the carbon bike is going to have a higher yield point.  I give the advantage to carbon. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ding &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advantage aluminum.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you take a hammer to a bike you could kill a carbon first.  Don't take a hammer to your bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When carbon forks came out there was a lot of scare they are not as strong.  A fork takes a lot of stress and you you see a lot of carbon forks today.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/86919-aluminum-vs.-carbon-bikes/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aluminum Vs. Carbon Bikes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T20:31:54.940" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T20:31:54.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-13T18:39:18.080" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my new city bike I'm thinking of getting a U-lock. Price of the bike is around $900, so I probably don't way to spend more than 10% of its price on the lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, Kryptonite locks look pretty good, altough that may be due to hype. Their &quot;yellow series&quot; locks seem pretty safe, but I doubt I would lug around a 2 kilo beast for long. The mini series lock looks nice too (and cheaper!) with its 1 kilo of weight. But is it secure enough? Are there are (perhaps less hyped, but good) brands that I should consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I won't be parking my bike on the street for too long. I just want to be able to pop into a store without being on a paranoid lookout for my bike every second of my grocery shopping. Is going for the more expensive lock overkill in such scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12864" LastEditorUserId="12864" LastEditDate="2014-07-13T18:45:29.343" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T18:45:29.343" Title="What U-lock has a reasonable weight to safety ratio?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2014-07-14T12:52:30.693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23581" CreationDate="2014-07-13T18:54:15.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you measure your cadence? (The answer to this is that you can, even if you have to resort to counting strokes and looking at your watch. But a computer will make it easier.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flat, try riding in a high gear and at a high cadence, as much as you are able.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should translate to lower gear / high cadence when climbing (which is what you want).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word of warning though, riding in too high a gear can cause knee pain, which isn't good. So you're basically looking for a threshold - the highest gear you can manage, while maintaining a decent cadence (say, 70 to start with, but ideally higher) and without it being painful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you won't be able to reproduce is the heat - climbs can get very hot as there often isn't much airflow. But as you say you're riding in Yorkshire that shouldn't be a problem ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-13T20:34:26.643" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T20:34:26.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23581" CreationDate="2014-07-13T21:59:19.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should focus on sustained efforts of 12 min to 1 hour. While specialized equipment; e.g. heart rate and power meters, can be helpful in maintaining motivation and gauging if you're backing off your effort, they aren't required. You can use RPE, rate of perceived exertion. Its also helpful to find a route of about 1 hour and challenge yourself to match or beat your best time every week or so. Similarly you could use a fixed segment to do intervals of ~12 min. Do several repeats in one session and try to get faster each time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T21:59:19.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23588" CreationDate="2014-07-13T22:54:05.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I have put 140mm-100mm adjustable forks on an XC bike designed for 100m forks. Going from 140mm to 160mm will change the geometry of the bike a bit, but a bike that already has a 140mm fork is pretty slack to begin with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the exact fork and how much you set up the sag, there may be little to no measurable difference between the two forks during &quot;normal&quot; riding. The slacker the head angle, the less difference a change in fork length makes. If you're planning on running it at &quot;All mountain&quot; sag values, then &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( 140 * .7 ) = 98 mm &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;( 160 * .7 ) = 112 mm &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the fork will only be about 1.4 cm longer during normal riding, and at a 68 degree head angle, you will barely notice the difference in height. This assumes&#xA;the two forks have roughly equal axle to crown measurements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want an official answer email trek and ask if putting the new fork on will void the frame warranty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/support/contact/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/support/contact/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were my bike, I'd do it without a second thought. But I love building franken bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T22:54:05.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23580" CreationDate="2014-07-14T00:50:15.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main question is why are they needing cleaning, as this drives the need for chemicals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its normal road and trail mud and grime, as suggested in the comments, hot water and a nylon scrubbing pad (even a &quot;goldilocks&quot; type metal one if used gently). If you remove the wheels to be safe, then use a bit dish washing detergent and rinse well with hot water and dry off with a cloth. If you need a bit more &quot;omph&quot; the toothpaste is mildly abrasive and easily washes off afterwards. Try not to touch the rotor once cleaned.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have oil contamination, and the above has not worked, you will need a solvent  - anything volatile that does not leave a residue should be OK as long as it does not get on the pads, bearings or or tires. White petrol is ideal.  However if there is oil on the pads they should be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T00:50:15.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23579" CreationDate="2014-07-14T00:59:04.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Derailer  adjustment is easy - at least in theory. When it comes to fine adjustment you may find that you cannot easily get this problem fixed without making something else worse - i.e. its a compromise. Its a good opportunity to learn how to adjust derailers- make adjustments slowly, one step at a time, and count the turns so you can go back to the start if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given you should not be spending any time in this gear combo, and its not really doing any damage to the bike components, one option is to leave it alone and learn to switch to the smaller chain ring sooner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth taking it back to the bike shop and seeing if they can tweak it, but do make it clear to them that you do not want to compromise gear shifts to get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T00:59:04.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8678" CreationDate="2014-07-14T02:02:23.963" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is effective against certain kinds of bike theft, particularly if you already lock up your bike effectively every single time (which is a good assumption if you're willing to go through the trouble to uglify it).   Many people swear by it.  For example, LDS missionaries in Taiwan repaint their new bikes poorly as a matter of tradition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Daniel already pointed out, there are several kinds of bike thieves. The US Deparment of Justice COPS report on bike theft in 2008 lists the following kinds of bike thieves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Joyrides:  These thieves steal a bike for convenience or for pleasure, with no intention to resell it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick cash: These thieves are opportunist, looking for a quick buck to be made off of theft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Planned theft:  These are usually experienced thieves or experienced bikers who see a bike and steal it despite obstacles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the first and second kind of thief, appearance is only a minor concern.  To the third appearance is a major concern.  The amount of each type of thief really depends on the area.  In some areas very few are joyriders, whereas, in other areas mentioned in the report, up to 80% of the reported stolen bikes were abandoned and later recovered.  Your risk for each type of thief also depends on where, when, and how you lock up your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-bike-lock/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Best Bike Lock &amp;#40;with thief interviews&amp;#41;&quot;&gt;these interviews with bike thieves&lt;/a&gt; point out, most bike theft of the first two kinds happens primarily because the bike is inadequately locked, not because of appearance, although appearance may deter these thieves regardless. Thieves often sell stolen bikes for &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.priceonomics.com/post/30393216796/what-happens-to-stolen-bicycles&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dirt cheap, down to $100 or less&lt;/a&gt;, so to them it doesn't matter much if it looks like a beater bike or a racing bike. For example, my brother had his $80 old Walmart bike stolen when he left it in an apartment bike rack overnight with just a cable lock. The interviews even mention that bikes over $1000 are sometimes too risky for low-level thieves to steal.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All of this may explain why &lt;a href=&quot;http://tram.mcgill.ca/Research/Publications/Cycling_theft.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this study&lt;/a&gt; found that cheap bikes, including used cheap bikes, are among the most frequently stolen (see the picture below). The study also found that used bikes under $150 dollars are stolen many times more frequently than new bikes in the same price range.  However, this raw data has some complexities, like how cheap old bikes are several times more popular than new, expensive ones and how expensive-bike-owners are usually more thorough in their locking practices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DPkei.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One study found that cheap bikes are among the most commonly stolen&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there is a difference between making a bike look worthless and making a bike look repulsive.  Stickers and rust are repulsive, while a bad paint job and a milk crate on back are just cheap.  Making your bike look unsellable at any price should be your goal, not to make it look like a cheap beater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhere like New York with more of the third kind of thefts, planned thefts by seasoned thieves, is going to be an area where appearance matters far more and how you lock it matters much less.  The interviews with thieves that I mentioned earlier shows how professional thieves will be ordered to steal an expensive bike or a certain brand of bike, or will see one and case it, coming back at an opportune moment with power tools or whatever it takes.  Against these kinds of theft, changing appearance is one of the only methods of prevention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12953" LastEditorUserId="12953" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T23:19:13.863" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T23:19:13.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2014-07-14T03:51:27.600" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of what does and doesn't work, based on two great sources: a &lt;a href=&quot;http://tram.mcgill.ca/Research/Publications/Cycling_theft.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;study in Montreal&lt;/a&gt;, and the USDOJ's COPS program's &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeleague.org/sites/default/files/bikeleague/bikeleague.org/programs/bicyclefriendlyamerica/communities/pdfs/cops_biketheft_2008.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bike theft report&quot;&gt;paper on bike theft prevention:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What Works:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adequate Locks&lt;/strong&gt; I won't discuss the matter in detail since it's not part of the question, but adequate locks and locking technique are &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; most important method of prevention for most people.  Both the Montreal study and the COPS program support them as the primary line of defense.  Also, some seemingly secure locks and locking techniques are so easy to break that they'll attract thieves, so do your research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GPS Trackers&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Besides being an effective tool for recovery, if designed properly these devices seem to deter theft, particularly when police in the area are using them to catch thieves. I haven't found official studies or statistics on their effectiveness as a theft deterrent, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-bike-lock/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;one interviewed thief&lt;/a&gt; reported avoiding bikes that seem to have a GPS tracker inside, but taking off GPS trackers that were weakly attached to the frame.  I also remember seeing a report of a University that deployed several GPS-enabled bait bikes to catch thieves only to have them never stolen.  Note that in both circumstances the real deterrent was the possibility of the bike being tracked by the police, not just the possibility of the owner finding the thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What you lock your bike to&lt;/strong&gt;  Often people &amp;quot;fly-park&amp;quot; a bike somewhere other than a bike rack without thinking about how secure the structure is.  This is dangerous because not only may the structure be easy to dismantle, break, or take the bike off of, but the structure may also not be as safely located as a bike rack.  Additionally, fly-parking makes it more difficult to lock a bike up properly (securing both the frame and the wheels with little room for leverage or adjustment). For example, locking a bike to a street sign won't work if the thief can lift the bike and lock up over the sign.  Both the COPS report and the Montreal study indicate that a high number of stolen bicycles, as much as 50%, had been fly-parked, and an anti-fly-parking campaign at the University of Minnesota had dramatic success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stop stalking&lt;/strong&gt; Bikes that look expensive are more likely to attract planned attacks.  Bike thieves &lt;a href=&quot;http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-bike-lock/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;may be contracted to steal a bike a buyer wants or has seen&lt;/a&gt;, or may case a bike and come back for it later with powerful tools. Don't park your bike where it's the most expensive bike on the rack, don't park it in the same place every day if you can.  If your tire goes mysteriously flat on a bike rack, take it home. Parking a bike overnight or in a risky area greatly increases the odds of this kind of theft happening.  Some people &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/8664/8&quot;&gt;uglify their bike&lt;/a&gt; to prevent this kind of theft.  However, uglifying your bike &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/23599/8&quot;&gt;isn't as effective&lt;/a&gt; against other kinds of theft. Petty thieves who are just looking for a quick $100 don't care as much if your bike is rusty and duck taped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Prevent stolen parts&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This is often overlooked, but a quarter of cyclists in the Montreal study were victims of bicycle parts being stolen--usually wheels or seats, but sometimes other accessories.  Either use a cable lock to secure these, deter theft by removing quick-releases and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/10396/8&quot;&gt;other DIY techniques&lt;/a&gt;, or invest in locking nuts, bolts, and skewers (Pitlock, Pinhead, and Zefal are some of the sellers for these).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take it inside&lt;/strong&gt; If you had a Ferrari, would you leave it overnight in a good garage or a NYC street? That's why many cyclists prefer indoor storage, despite the hassle. If theft is a serious concern where you live, consider investing in a folding bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What kind of works:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bicycle Registration&lt;/strong&gt;  This is recommended almost universally, and both the COPS paper  and the Montreal study showed that it improves chances of recovering a stolen bicycle.  However, the Montreal study showed that cyclists who registered their bicycles were far more likely to have been victims of bicycle theft (and after theft bicyclists are likely not to register their new bike).  This is hypothesized to be due mostly to the difference in demographics and attitudes in the groups, but it goes to show that &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/4320/8&quot;&gt;bicycle registration should not be depended on to prevent theft&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where and when you lock your bike&lt;/strong&gt;  Identifying a risky situation helps you take preventative measures you wouldn't have otherwise taken, like storing a bike indoors.  Montreal study confirmed the obvious fact that the shadier and more urban the area, the more likely it is to be stolen. However, the study noted that most people overestimate how safe their own neighborhood is.  The study also confirmed that nights are the most frequent time for theft, although afternoons was a close second.  Summer also is a peak time for bike thefts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Video Surveillance&lt;/strong&gt; sounds like a great idea, as who would want to be filmed stealing a bike?  Too bad that according to the Department of Justice it isn't a &amp;quot;suitable deterrent,&amp;quot;  unless there's someone responsible for securing the premises like a security guard.  So don't leave your bike in a dangerous CCTV area overnight, trusting that the cameras will scare away thieves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inexpensive bikes&lt;/strong&gt;  Many cyclists use &amp;quot;beater&amp;quot; bikes for commuting and trips to higher risk areas, saving their expensive bikes for recreational use. It's difficult, however, to prove that this is a very effective theft deterrent.  The Montreal paper points out that &lt;em&gt;cheap bikes are among the most common thefts&lt;/em&gt;, even if they're old.  This is after accounting for the large popularity of these bikes and types of locks used.  This correlation may, however, have to do with extra things that owners of expensive bikes do to protect their bikes that weren't studied, like where they store their bikes or how expensive their locks are.  The study also showed that mid range bikes ($500-1500) are the least likely to be stolen, showing that increased risk of theft of top-end bikes is real.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Britain's most stolen bikes&amp;quot; reported in &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/news/119280-whats-britains-most-stolen-bike-answer-will-surprise-you&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these statistics&lt;/a&gt;, were midrange bikes, and not necessarily the most popular ones either.  These British statistics contradict the other evidence that mid-range bikes are safest, but also confirm that expensive bikes are not the most commonly stolen.&#xA;In summary, the typical person with a cheap bike is actually more likely to have their bike stolen than the typical person with an expensive bike.  So having a cheap bike is not a &lt;em&gt;dependable&lt;/em&gt; way of preventing theft (although securing your bike as if it cost a few $1000 may be effective).  Using a cheaper bike for higher risk situations does minimize the &lt;em&gt;cost&lt;/em&gt; of a theft, which is one reason why the practice is so common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information, the Montreal study can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://tram.mcgill.ca/Research/Publications/Cycling_theft.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and the Department of Justice COPS' paper can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeleague.org/sites/default/files/bikeleague/bikeleague.org/programs/bicyclefriendlyamerica/communities/pdfs/cops_biketheft_2008.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Bike theft report&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12953" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T06:21:05.840" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23609" CreationDate="2014-07-14T09:55:24.610" Score="0" ViewCount="2224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike with Shimano Ultegra Di2 6870 goupset. Today it was my first long ride with it and alsmost instantly I noticed that the brake pads are not for carbon rims. I tried searching on the internet brake pads for ultegra 6870 but with no luck. Are other ultegra brake pads compatible with my brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11239" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T14:13:42.730" Title="Are all the Ultegra brake pads the same?" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;&lt;shimano-di2&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23605" CreationDate="2014-07-14T10:19:56.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have carbon rims (with a carbon braking surface) you will need appropriate brake pads, so as not to damage the rims.  You do not have to use shimano brake shoes- most (possibly all?) rim brakes will take any brand of shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-dura-ace-90009010-inserts-for-carbon-rims-pair/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carbon rim insert&lt;/a&gt; for Dura Ace, which might fit the ultegra shoes.  However if there are no compatible pads for your brake shoes/ rims, you may have to buy a new set of shoes - not especially pricy, and they will come with pads.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T10:19:56.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3244" CreationDate="2014-07-14T10:58:04.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be your spokes... they will all need tightening (on the drive side at least but get someone to check them all). This can happen if your bike comes assembled from a manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12968" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T10:58:04.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14612" CreationDate="2014-07-14T14:08:50.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sixt.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sixt rental cars&lt;/a&gt; USA customer service says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We do have bike racks available but it is based on the location as well as availability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any rental car agency, you should call and verify that they have the equipment you would like before you depart on your trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12971" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T13:05:25.153" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T13:05:25.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23605" CreationDate="2014-07-14T14:13:42.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/ultegra_di20.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano groupset page&lt;/a&gt;, both brake options for the Ultegra Di2 6870 groupset (BR-6800, BR-6810) ship with the Shimano R55C4 pads, which are designed for carbon rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So more than likely, either the brakes are not setup correctly, or the Shimano pads suck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T14:13:42.730" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-14T15:08:08.323" Score="1" ViewCount="1956" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the front brake pads of my bike. Lately I've seen a decrease in stopping force and some shudder when braking at low and very low speeds. I took them apart and they look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/KmXgESbh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/uEOIkLjh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/IDH8MFxh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the pads look contaminated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12972" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T15:14:09.790" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T21:21:02.050" Title="Do these pads look contaminated?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;pads&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-14T15:47:53.733" Score="6" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought this bike, but it seems like the frame is not Bianchi, all marks and texts are stickers. Also, there are quite a few logos on the frame. Does anyone know which frame this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWtFi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;logo on the frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MDEAv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12973" LastEditorUserId="8643" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T00:06:34.557" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T05:42:40.313" Title="Strange logo on the frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14612" CreationDate="2014-07-14T16:20:21.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From personal experience with Enterprise, I brought a rack with me when I went to Colorado to ride. I just made sure to cover the contact points so it didn't leave and scratches or marks and put it on after getting to my hotel and before leaving. I think it's kind of a don't-ask-don't-tell policy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T16:20:21.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23610" CreationDate="2014-07-14T17:50:08.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @Daniel R Hicks.  Those pads aren't terrible, but they're obviously not new either.  New pads are cheap, so go ahead and throw a new pair on and see if it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that the pads are worn enough that even when you pull the lever in all the way they fail to make good contact with the rotor.  Are they mechanical brakes?  That problem is especially common with mechanical brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, is it possible that you got some sort of oil/fluid on your rotors?  That can severely lessen braking power, and it can happen with an invisibly thin film of oil.  If you think that is the case, clean the rotors with a non-detergent solvent like goo-gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, can you describe what you mean by &quot;shuddering&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T17:50:08.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2014-07-14T19:21:11.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cover brand names on your bike with tape.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my bikes is a Cannondale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I did was to cover with tape all the letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks uglier, but doesn't cry &quot;I'm an expensive brand!&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/exzyW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brand name masked with tape.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T19:21:11.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23617" CreationDate="2014-07-14T22:15:32.920" Score="2" ViewCount="2763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to move a couple of frame protectors from the head tube of my bike but don't want to damage the paint in removing them. What's the best way of getting these off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3670" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T12:49:56.507" Title="What's the best way to remove stick-on frame protectors" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23616" CreationDate="2014-07-14T22:58:41.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the type of adhesive. Sometimes it can be just pulled off. Sometimes the gentle heat of a hairdryer (not a heat gun) can weaken an adhesive and make it easier to remove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can try the use of GooGone or similar adhesive thinner/solvent (try on an inconspicuous place first to make sure it won't damage the finish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat and solvent cover 90% of cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the protector was epoxied on, then it is very hard to take off without damaging the finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T02:55:41.740" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T02:55:41.740" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23297" CreationDate="2014-07-14T23:17:26.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very short-sighted. I use glasses for every day activities, but contacts for riding: glasses are heavy and can fall while riding; don't protect you very well from dirt/mud. My worst nightmare: falling off the bike and losing/broken them (while riding alone in the woods).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T23:17:26.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23610" CreationDate="2014-07-15T00:25:04.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake pad contamination is usually invisible. The pad compound is porous and if oil got in your caliper / on your rotor in a big way then it has soaked into your pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to know if your pads are contaminated is to know if you rode through oil or had some sort of suspension or brake fluid leak. A visual check around your brake caliper and rotor can reveal this. If you feel or see oily film, contamination is likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't have any leakage incident or ride through something nasty, it could be another problem. Your mention of shuddering makes me wonder if something is loose or worn. Still, replacing the pads is a cheap and easy check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3575" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T00:25:04.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23428" CreationDate="2014-07-15T01:08:21.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say yes, use copper grease / ti prep / anti-seize on any titanium-to-metal contact (and especially ti to aluminum) that you anticipate staying put for a long period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Length of the seatpost - yes&#xA;Seat post clamp - yes&#xA;Bottle cages bolts - yes&#xA;Rear derailleur - yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front derailleur clamp seems more questionable because it isn't threaded or a tight fit in theory, but sure, why not? Applying liberally is better— you want the copper grease to stay put through washes and rain to do its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3575" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T01:08:21.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-15T03:47:02.697" Score="2" ViewCount="10468" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Cannondale road bike with Suntour shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I shift from the front middle ring to the small inner-most ring, the chain falls into the gap and binds tightly between the two rings. The chain seems to be an appropriate width for the back cassette and there doesn't seem to be anything that I can tighten to close the gap between the two rings (the two are screwed together and seem tightly affixed to one another). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from not using the inner-most ring, I'm at a loss for what to do. Any ideas (aside from a fixie)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12979" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T11:08:49.990" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T09:41:28.153" Title="chain getting stuck between chainrings" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2014-07-15T03:58:39.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem my key jammed in my lock while it was locked to a rail and I literally looked this up just so I could figure out how to get my bike free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answers here are over exaggerated and unhelpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just asked my neighbor if he had a hacksaw or anything to get my bike lock off he gave me some bolt cutters. I just went there and two strong guys helped me. We placed the cutters right on the base of the lock and BAM my bike is now free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skip the hassle borrow someones bolt cutters and there you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12980" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T06:19:11.120" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T06:19:11.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23622" CreationDate="2014-07-15T08:07:07.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I see it, from my experience you may have any one or a combination of the following issues (from most to least likely):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;You keep on pedalling at force while shifting down.&lt;/em&gt; Usually, when you switch from the middle to the smallest ring on the front you are going uphill and you have to keep pedalling just to avoind falling over. Still, you have to significantly reduce the pressure you apply to your pedals while shifting. If this happens often you should try to change gears a bit earlier in the climb when you still have enough momentum to pedal without force for one or two strokes while your chain switches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Your front derailer is not properly adjusted.&lt;/em&gt; Over time the adjustment of your derailer may shift a bit due to al the shaking, or due to dirt lodging between parts. It may need readjustment. If you don't know how to do this I would strongly suggest you ask your LBS for help about this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Your rings are old and worn.&lt;/em&gt; Your rings have special grooves and notches on the sides. They are not there because they look good or save material or weight. They are there to help your chain catch onto the next ring. If the rings are very old these grooves and notches might be worn away too much. Ask your friendly local LBS what they think about your rings or just compare your rings to those on a newer bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Your front derailer is old and worn.&lt;/em&gt; Over time the different parts of your front derailer are subject to normal wear and tear and everything becomes more loose and you get some play. You can compensate for this a bit by readjusting your derailer, but eventually replacement is the only option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Your chain is incompatible with your rings.&lt;/em&gt;  You say it looks compatible with the back cassette, but in the past someone might have changed the back cassette to a model that requires a very thin chain that is incompatible with your rings. Possibly to increase the number of cogs in the back cassette (and thus the gear range) without changing the rear wheel. Are back cassette and front rings the same brand? Can you find serial numbers? Can you find anything in the website of the manufacturer? Again, you might want to visit your LBS for help on this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Your chain is old and worn.&lt;/em&gt; If you live in a very dry climate and are a master of bike maintenance this might be the problem. But usually a chain is rusty and squeeking years before it is worn too thin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T08:22:50.687" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T08:22:50.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23628" CreationDate="2014-07-15T08:23:46.843" Score="1" ViewCount="48694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a racer street bicycle without gears. I want to convert that into a geared one. For that I will need to modify the rear part of the frame where the wheel goes in. Is it advisable to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8605" LastEditorUserId="8605" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T09:31:52.317" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T10:52:28.377" Title="Converting a Bicycle without gears into a Geared one?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-07-18T19:16:48.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23625" CreationDate="2014-07-15T09:00:01.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modifying frame is usually not worth the trouble. Maybe your bike was previously equipped with gears, and it has necessary provisions (derailleur hanger)? If not consider a hub with internal gears. If that is too expensive, consider a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T09:00:01.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23625" CreationDate="2014-07-15T10:52:28.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on just what bicycle it is, but its probably possible to add gears in some way. But it may be expensive or complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing to check is the frame spacing, ie the width between the rear dropouts. Many singlespeeds use 120mm wide hubs, whereas modern geared hubs are 130mm (road) or 135mm (mountain bike). If it is a steel frame, then it is usually possible to spring it out a bit, up to about 5mm or so, to fit a wider hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the frame is only 120mm, then your options are limited. There are some internal hub gears for 120mm frames, eg from Sram or Sturmey-Archer. But they are fairly expensive, or have a limited range of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your frame is wide enough for a 130mm or 135mm hub, then you can use a standard road or mountain bike hub with a cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you will need to attach the derailleur. If the frame is designed for singlespeed, it won't have a derailleur hanger. But you can bolt one on, depending on what type of droputs you have. eg if you have horizontal dropouts, you could use this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/dmr-chain-tugs-mech-hanger/rp-prod249&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DMR Chain Tugs &amp;amp; Mech Hanger&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the frame probably won't have guides for the gear cable. You can buy clamp on cable guides, or you could just use zip-ties to hold the cable in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether all this is worth it is another question. As you will have to buy quite a few parts (wheel, cassette, derailleur, gear levers etc), which could get expensive. Plus quite a bit of work fitting it all. It may be easier just to buy a bike with gears instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T10:52:28.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-15T17:06:28.030" Score="0" ViewCount="735" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just replaced my pedals on a very old Norco MTB.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed while working on it that the whole pedal structure is wiggling from side to side is this normal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the plastic caps off the base to see if it is an easy tightening fix, but not sure if tightening that bolt is the  way to correct the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12988" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T07:05:40.033" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T07:05:40.033" Title="Loose pedals on Norco MTB" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23629" CreationDate="2014-07-15T17:41:38.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be a couple different issues at work, but it's most likely that the bearings need to be re-greased and/or tightened. On some pedals, that little screw simply holds the pedal body together and the amount of grease in the bearing area will determine how tight the whole assembly holds together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, some pedals have a preload that adjusts how tight the assembly is, simply tightening this might solve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend tightening that bolt and see if the problem persists, if not good; if it does, then either replace the pedals or take them in to a shop to take a quick look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T17:41:38.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23637" CreationDate="2014-07-15T18:59:59.337" Score="2" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously it's a silly idea. Apart from the cost, it's far too dense and not stiff enough to be a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; frame material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm asking is &lt;em&gt;would it be possible&lt;/em&gt; to make a ridable bike from gold? What calculations would be needed to work out what tube size/thickness would be needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T03:00:57.553" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T03:00:57.553" Title="Could you make a bike frame out of 24kt gold?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;hypothetical&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23634" CreationDate="2014-07-15T19:04:10.653" Score="1" ViewCount="3833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just recently replaced the brakes on my MTB with a pair of Shimano XT hydraulics. The rear brake line was extremely long for my frame's routing, so I had to cut it and subsequently bleed the system. For the most part, everything seems to have gone well; the rear brake lever is now very firm and responsive, slightly more so than the front (which I did not shorten or bleed). However, I've noticed that the rear brake lever no longer returns instantaneously. If I had to guess, I'd say it takes around 0.2 seconds to return from the fully depressed position. By contrast, the front lever returns so quickly that it makes a slight &quot;snap&quot; sound when it hits its limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced both the olive and needle insert when reinstalling the brake line. I noticed that both of these parts had a thick grease generously applied to them from the factory. I'm unsure if this is typical for Shimano brakes, though I've never seen pre-applied grease on the spares for Avid or Tektro brakes. I have a sneaking suspicion that this may be the culprit, but I'm not sure how to validate that without disassembling the brakes again and swapping in new connector spares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't seem to affect the brake's function right now, since the pads don't noticeably drag against the rotor during the return interval. But it does concern me that I may have done something wrong while reinstalling the brake line, and that this might be a precursor to more serious problems in the future. Any ideas what I might have done wrong, or how to further troubleshoot this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The instructions I followed for shortening my brake line are these: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/shorten-shimano-hoses-without-bleeding/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/shorten-shimano-hoses-without-bleeding/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shortening the line introduced some air, so I followed the official Shimano bleed instructions here [PDF]: &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Bleeding_SI/SI_0037A/SI_0037A_002_EN_v1_m56577569830648123.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Bleeding_SI/SI_0037A/SI_0037A_002_EN_v1_m56577569830648123.PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12975" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T19:51:46.290" Title="Slow lever return after shortening brake line and bleeding" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23633" CreationDate="2014-07-15T19:51:46.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three possible things that could be causing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too little mineral oil remaining in the system, did you top up the brakes after shortening them?. This would create a vacuum in the system and would prevent the lever from returning fully. *--&lt;em&gt;EDIT on reflection I think this is unlikely with a Shimano brake as after oil falls below a certain level air would enter the system and the lever wouldn't work.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A blockage caused by grease in the needle creating a slow vacuum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A broken spring in the lever. There isn't enough negative pressure in the system to force the lever to return so this is aided by a spring in the lever which also creates suction at the piston. Did you check the brakes prior to shortening the hose? This is a known failure for Shimano brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My trouble shooting would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check mineral oil level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the needle for a blockage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take it to a LBS for some professional help&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T19:51:46.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23632" CreationDate="2014-07-15T19:58:52.040" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia, Gold has an &quot;ultimate tensile strength&quot; of 100 MPa, while steel runs from 400 to 5000. (Carbon fiber laminate is 1600.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gold has a specific gravity of about 19, while steel has a specific gravity of about 7.8. So it would take about 4 times as much pure gold by volume, or about 9.7 times as much gold by weight. A 15 pound steel frame would weigh about 145 pounds in gold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gold is currently trading about $1300 per (Troy) ounce, so that works out to 145 * 12 * $1300, or $2.26 million. I think even carbon would be cheaper (and lighter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And, of course, due to the weight of the frame, the frame strength would have to be beefed up, so you'd need more gold still.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T20:08:13.013" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T20:08:13.013" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23632" CreationDate="2014-07-15T23:47:23.250" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trivially: yes, of course you can. You almost certainly won't be able to &lt;strong&gt;ride&lt;/strong&gt; that bike, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is not the weight of the frame, it's the weight of the rider compared to the strength of the gold. Essentially you have an 80kg rider on a frame that might weigh 20kg if made of gold rather than 5kg in steel. The dominant mass is still the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the maths is complex and I'm not a mechanical engineer. Broadly, we need to find the yield force at which each key component breaks, and that's determined by how the gold is formed, the temperature, the rate of change of the force and a few other factors. So you can't just say &quot;shear modulus 27GPa&quot; and move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a bike frame you'd want to quench the casting to harden the metal as much as you can, which would help, but it would still be weak. I am not certain that quenching works on gold. I suspect the main issue would be the dropouts, and you'd need to use long, fat axles - like the 14mm thick axles used on some load bikes - to spread the load and stop the axle just cutting straight through the frame when the rider sat on the bike. Likewise, big, low-pressure tyres to reduce peak forces on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you make the &quot;tubes&quot; (probably solid, for practicality of construction) fatter you'll start to run into scaling problems. Beam strength scales as the square, but mass as the cube. At some point my initial claim that &quot;rider mass is dominant&quot; will stop being true. It might be easier to fabricate the frame as a one-piece casting using I-beams rather than tubes, so that it can be cast and quenched quickly. There doesn't seem to be a lot of research in this area, probably as there's no practical use for &quot;the strongest pure gold beam&quot; but the experiments are expensive (and toxic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason that gold plating and alloys are used is that even small sculptures have structural issues when made of 24 carat gold. The largest pure gold statue I can find online is only 10cm tall and that's labelled as fragile (but that search is fraught as there is so much &quot;huge ... 24 carat gold... plated&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; NHinkle suggested in chat that if you float the bike in mercury the structural issues are greatly reduced, so a (solid) gold frame would be ridable, at least for someone willing to immerse themselves in mercury and for the brief time before the gold dissolved in the mercury. The general principle holds though, so &lt;strong&gt;&quot;yes, you can make a ridable bike frame out of pure gold&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;. The question is, what would you have to immerse the bike and rider in to balance the weak structure with the load? Water might work, but you'd probably need a denser fluid. Nearly saturated metal salts in water, for example, might work. Or simply doing the build and ride somewhere that gravity is not as strong. The moon, for example, or Ceres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T08:35:33.417" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T08:35:33.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-16T02:01:32.030" Score="0" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to ask your support to decide which Shimano shoe size is best for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am about to purchase Shimano SH-M162, but just noticed that the sizing is in european base. My usual running shoes are a size 9.5 (fit is roomy) which would equal 43.5 (based on Shimano's chart).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the issue comes here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual go-to-work shoe is a size 27cm (Mexico here), which would equal a 42.5; now, to add offense to injury, I've got a pair of european sized shoes, which put my feet at size 41.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this shoes will be bought via internet with no way of actually having them fit on a shop or anything (the model's not common in Mexico, and the only store that carries em want 230 USD vs 120 USD online) I'd like to ask any Shimano user that wears a similar size to let me know &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;'What is the size of your feet?'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this, I can purchase the best sizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all your comments in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, size 43 was the good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your F/B!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8818" LastEditorUserId="8818" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T13:45:39.873" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T13:45:39.873" Title="Shimano shoe fitter" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-16T07:30:29.903" Score="3" ViewCount="7262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2005&amp;amp;brand=Trek&amp;amp;model=1500%20WSD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2005 Trek 1500 WSD&lt;/a&gt; road bike with original Shimano 105 STI brake/shifter levers.  I'm looking for replacement hoods for the brifters because the originals are wearing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the groupset model number is ST-5510.  I also believe that ST-5500, ST-6500, and ST-6510 hoods should all be compatible (55xx = 105, 65xx = Ultegra, xx10 = Flight Deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point me to a source to buy a pair of hoods for these levers?  I've searched and searched and come up empty handed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T19:46:24.183" Title="Where to buy 2005 Shimano 105/Ultegra brifter hoods?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-01-30T20:25:14.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17956" CreationDate="2014-07-16T07:56:56.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When mine squeal I &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the pads, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buff with some wet and dry, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put them back in, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;re-center the calipers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It fixes it 9 times out of 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12994" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-07-16T10:09:37.070" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T10:09:37.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23565" CreationDate="2014-07-16T10:10:43.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a treaded tire would cut through mud on asphalt better than slicks. A total slick with no biting edges on so is less likely to grip on the surface because it is smooth  having less friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tread gives somewhere for mud to go, kind of like in safety shoes where the water is squeezed out between the grooves.  Likewise the mud is pushed between the gaps and the edges of tread can bite through mud to reach the hard ground. I would prefer to reach the hard ground underneath me than &quot;mud&quot;plane on mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think hydroplaning with water could happen on a bicycle, this has been proven though a lot of road pro tires now have tiny ridges or a fine texture which micro interlocks with concrete to assist traction in wet conditions. An article can be found on the website velonews by various tire companies talking about how a fine tread can affect wet traction to a degree but this is different than cars and motorcyles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Jobst Brandts spiel on slicks; yes, maybe in a lab on tire machines slicks grip better on wet ground and corner better. However in the real world we ride over slimy concrete, dirt over concrete and sand; through gravel and over rough asphalt and uneven ground. So a slightly treaded tire might help with these surfaces. So most tires have some tread not for water dispersion but for non-uniform surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the surface get deeper, softer and looser so does the need for more aggressive tread features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an additional note I disagree with Brandt that motorcycles should use full slicks on wet roads and tread grooves are there for artistic purposes. This may be so with bicycles but street motorbike tires differ greatly than slick racing ones, they have different rubber and must cope with different conditions. I would like to see if test results from motorcycle tire companies that actually prove his hypothesis if so most street tires would be bald as well as motorcycle gp rain tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12997" LastEditorUserId="12997" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T01:28:45.030" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T01:28:45.030" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23622" CreationDate="2014-07-16T10:43:18.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;High force gear changes are sometimes the problem. Try to anticipate as you would in a car. Also, is the chain compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10915" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T10:43:18.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4762" CreationDate="2014-07-16T10:49:00.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply fit a wicker shopping basket on the front!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No,I'm not joking; You must try to read Mel Allwood 'THE TOTAL BIKE MAINTENANCE BOOK' pages 28-33.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10915" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T02:47:59.323" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T02:47:59.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23610" CreationDate="2014-07-16T10:53:59.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Difficult to say from the photo. Try this, give discs a good clean with alcohol and if the grip is still lacklustre then change the pads......if that doesn't work then and only then bleed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10915" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T10:53:59.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-16T11:10:34.160" Score="8" ViewCount="15442" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the start of my ride yesterday I was passing through town slowly and crossed a section of cobble stones (just a line running across the tarmac). I managed to hit the one cobble sticking out of the ground. I lost a lot of tire pressure (I normally ride 23mm tires with 90-95 psi, it dropped to around 20 psi) and thought I had gotten a pinch flat so turned back home to change tube. When I got home I tested the existing tube (in the bath tub) for holes and found nothing, I've put it back in the wheel now and reinflated, got through a 50 km ride yesterday evening and still inflated this morning... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what happened? Is this a common (or at least not entirely unheard of) occurrence for others. The valve was closed and it's not the first time its happened to me either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the offending piece of cobblework, it's nothing extreme...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OioRX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T00:53:49.537" Title="Sudden tyre deflation with no puncture" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23647" CreationDate="2014-07-16T15:19:50.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three possibilities that I see  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You did not suddenly lose air you just did not notice until you got to the cobble stone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rubber tube failed and recovered &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The valve failed and recovered &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No so sure you had a sudden loss of air.  If the tire when from 90 psi to 20 psi in a short period of most likely you would have heard that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the valved is the only mechanical device I going with valve failed and recovered. Either random or by force of the cobble stone the valve unseated and before it lost all air it re-seated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am definitely ruling out rubber tube failed and recovered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this has happened to you before on that tube then I would replace the valve or tube and valve.  If this has happened to you on more than one tube/valve then wow - it has never happened to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with the comment a patch could fail and then recover at a lower pressure but if you were able to air it back up and hold I would rule that out.  My mountain bike was down to 20 psi once and tube only at low pressure could not find a leak but with tire on at 50 psi it did leak (at a patch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See picture below. The little gasket may have deformed or it has a little slit that is held together with compression.  Another possibility is the the valve itself (not the knob) is not screwed all the way in.  Where you see the flat spot on the the threads screw that in with pliers.  I had a set of tubes that by unscrewing the pump some times the valve would unscrew so I would use a dab of thread lock.  I think that is actually a picture of a presta valve that the core does not remove - so screwing that in would do no good.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBXn5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Presta Cut Away&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-16T20:05:47.457" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T20:05:47.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9475" CreationDate="2014-07-16T16:33:18.103" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;These 38/50/60/88 numbers are the 'depth' of the wheel's aerodynamic rim, in millimeters. Let's take 38 for example. This means that from where the tire meets the wheel, the rim extends an additional 38 millimeters towards the hub. When you see 88, that means the rim extends 88 millimeters from the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does that matter? One of the biggest benefits of carbon wheels is the aerodynamics. They play a major role in how fast, and how efficiently a cyclist can ride. Think back to when you were on a ride with your buddies, and drafted behind another rider. It's much easier to keep up with them, because of the better aerodynamics when you are drafting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your spinning wheels are the biggest source of slow aerodynamic turbulence. To improve this, we build wheels with aerodynamic advantage as a top priority. The way we do this is to increase the 'depth' of the rim. The deeper the rim, the more aerodynamic the wheel will be and the more efficiently and faster you'll be able to cut through the wind. An 88mm deep rim is more aerodynamic than a 38mm rim, and will be faster in situations where aerodynamics are very important, like long fast solo riding and triathlons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would anyone choose 38mm rims, if 88mm rims are more aerodynamic? The more a wheel becomes aerodynamic for going forward, the more it can be negatively affected by cross-winds, or winds coming from the side. Let's imagine you are riding with an 88mm deep front and rear rim. You will be able to go very fast because of the aerodynamics of deep wheels, but if a gust of wind comes from the side, that wind will push sideways against the large rims and push the whole bike sideways. This isn't such a big deal if you're riding alone, such as in a triathlon, but if you are riding in a group of cyclists, this sideways push could cause an impact with other riders, or at the very least it would require extra concentration from you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the solution? A wheel with a 'shallower' rim depth, like a 38mm, will be less affected by crosswinds, but will also have less aerodynamic advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that wasn't enough, you must also consider weight. A 38mm deep wheel will be lighter than an 88mm deep one, because less carbon is used. A lighter wheel will accelerate faster and will be much easier to ride up hills. This means that if you are sprinting and hill climbing a lot, a shallower rim, like a 38 will be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do I see some riders with different front and rear wheels? Due to the fact that the front wheel can turn for steering, its more susceptible to cross-wind interference. The rear wheel is fixed in a straight line with the bike, so if a cross-wind hits it, the impact on the bike won't be as much. This means that you can use a deeper rim on your rear wheel without impacting handling as much as that same rim would affect the front wheel. Wheelsets such as the 38-50 to take advantage of this fact. This wheelset uses a 38mm front rim, and a 50mm rear rim. This way you can get more aerodynamic advantage without sacrificing as much stability in windy conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I choose? This is the most difficult choice for riders looking to purchase new carbon  wheels. You must think about the situations you ride in. If you ride mostly hills you will want to choose a 38mm wheelset, if you are an all around rider choose a 50mm wheelset, if you are an all around rider looking for more aerodynamic advantage choose a 60mm wheelset, and if you are a solo rider, or a triathlete choose an 88mm wheelset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11487" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T20:44:08.440" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T20:44:08.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2388" CreationDate="2014-07-16T18:27:01.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First save the valve out of any tubes you discard (if the valve is good).  And you can buy valve core separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The valve was two sets of thread.  One to open and close the valve and the other to remove the valve core.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing the pump can loosen the valve core.  You can use a tool such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/Core-Remover-Tool-P350.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;core removal tool&lt;/a&gt; or a small pair of pliers to tighten the core.  If it gets loose I use just a dab of locktite on the threads but you must be very careful to not get any on the gasket or the valve will stick. I have a bad set of tubes and did this to all of them up front. Just a dab on the threads in the middle.  And open the valve before you tighten it.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOEs9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;presta core&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tx2tfz4548&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;valve core video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-16T18:50:08.790" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T18:50:08.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8214" CreationDate="2014-07-16T20:41:32.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you could just lift the thing up bodily in place of a stoker? Just bungee the rear wheel to the 2nd set of handlebars, then bungee the center of mass to the stoker seat? If it works you might find a way to make more convenient attachment, like standoffs (like the way the attach the space shuttle to a 747) to hold the kids bike horizontal above the stoker position. In the meantime, try foam to reduce rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen a platform, holding a pair of grocery bags which dropped over the rear bar. No room for a stoker - they were carrying 4 bags of groceries. Something like that- replace the stoker with cargo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13007" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T20:41:32.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23657" CreationDate="2014-07-16T21:55:23.333" Score="0" ViewCount="879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some vintage 27 inch wheels and I was wondering if I could use some 700 x 32c Tires on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13009" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T22:04:43.023" Title="700 x 32c Tire on 27 x 1 1/4 Wheels?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-07-16T22:42:35.830" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23656" CreationDate="2014-07-16T22:04:43.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really doubt it.  27 is 630 iso and 700 is 622 iso. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SheldonBrownTireSizing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T22:04:43.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23414" CreationDate="2014-07-16T23:47:57.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The screw that you are missing there is the B Tension screw. This screw rests on your derailleur hanger on your frame and sets the angle of the derailleur body.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, when you put a new derailleur on a bike you use this screw to adjust the distance of the upper pulley (Jockey pulley) on your derailleur up or down from the teeth on your cassette. You want the top pulley to be 5-10mm away from your cassette teeth when then chain is on the largest / easiest gear. This keeps shifting nice and tight, because the derailleur is as close to the cassette as possible, without riding the pulleys on the cassette teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screwing this in will move the derailleur body and pulleys downwards, away from the cassette, while screwing it out (or &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; out in your case) will cause the derailleur body to be pulled up by it's spring into the contorted position you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more about it here (scroll halfway down the page)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it wasn't obvious already— you've now learned why you shouldn't spin the rear wheel while you adjust the High Limit screw...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3575" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T23:47:57.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13826" CreationDate="2014-07-17T00:24:08.710" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some types the answer appears to be &quot;just marketing&quot;.  I've got a 58cm road bike with 700x23 tires, and 18&quot; wide handlebars.  My wife's old bike (which she no longer uses and is now the one that I can beat around in town with when I don't feel like wearing cycling shoes since it has platforms on 1 side of the pedals) is a 53cm frame, 700x23 tires, and 16&quot; wide handlebars.  Crank lever length is 7&quot; for both of them.  Dimensions on her &quot;women's&quot; bike match smaller &quot;men's&quot; bikes...  And yes, it's a little small for me for a road bike, but actually very closely matches the dimensions on my MTB which I was using to beat around town on...  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T00:24:08.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23632" CreationDate="2014-07-17T00:44:14.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;But to compare 24 carat gold is just not fair.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are made of hardened alloys: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aluminium alloy 6061-T6 that is commonly used in bicycles is 6 times as strong as pure annealed aluminium. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Steel 1090 alloy is 80 times a strong as iron.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardened alloys go back to medieval times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardened 18 carat gold is about the same strength of Steel 1090.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So yes it would be very possible to build a bicycle out of 18 carat gold.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;An 18 carat gold frame would be about 2.5 time the weight of Steel 1090.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gold is a strong metal. They use gold alloys for fillings. Gold does not rust.  As a frame material titanium has an edge over gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be more practical to build a bike out of pure (24 carat) annealed gold than pure annealed iron or pure annealed aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T01:04:05.537" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T01:04:05.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-17T01:23:59.627" Score="17" ViewCount="5410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode my mountain-bike with a bicycle trailer attached. Three kids (age 4 to 8) were inside the trailer (trailer made of steel). We went down from about 500 m above sea level to 150 m above sea level with an inclination of around 15 to 20 %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hydraulic disc brakes (Avid Juicy 3 with 180 mm discs) got very hot and &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; began to smoke and stink. When I was at about 250 m above sea level I stopped the bike, because the kids were complaining about the bad smell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I wanted to continue the ride, the front brake didn’t work at all. I could easily pull the brake lever with &lt;strong&gt;no resistance!&lt;/strong&gt; As if the cable was broken and the fluid inside was gone. I stopped again. It was in the evening (dark), and I couldn’t find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I continued the ride very slowly, only using the rear brake, pulling the front brake lever again and again to understand the problem. The more often I pulled the lever the resistance to pull it grew and the brake started to work again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To summarize the problem:&lt;/strong&gt; The brake stopped working completely after I had stopped the bike (but before it was working like a charm, only with a bad smell). And started to work again, when I pulled the lever a few times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now the questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happened?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since then the brake is working as usual again. How is that possible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7790" LastEditorUserId="7790" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T09:56:31.013" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T06:53:11.173" Title="Why did the hydraulic disc brake stop working when riding down a steep mountain?" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23661" CreationDate="2014-07-17T01:37:40.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you overheated the caliper so it expanded a little causing a leak. The smell was either plastic parts of the caliper or brake fluid burning off. Once it cooled a little your pumping the lever cause the self-adjusting feature of the brake to adjust to the loss of fluid. That's what makes me think it was fluid loss rather than the caliper itself being damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I strongly suggest you take the brake to a bike shop&lt;/strong&gt; and have them service the brake - pull it apart, check for damage and bleed/refill the fluid. It's possible that the seals inside are damaged, and if they've become brittle from being heated they'll probably work ok for a while, before they shatter and stop working altogether. So it's worth having someone pull them out, play with them, then put them back. Or replace them, if they break from being handled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get the bike back do the normal brake test - squeeze the lever as hard as you can and make sure nothing gives way. It's better that it breaks now than when you're in the middle of a panic stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had a similar experience with cable disks and they didn't seem to work any less well afterwards (they were poor to start with). I stopped because I wanted to know whether I could, as I could see black fluid bubbling out of my front brake caliper. When I got to the end of the ride I took them apart and they seemed ok. Since that was on a bike tour and they seemed to work I left them on the bike for another 2000-3000km, but once I got home I binned them. Thing is, if a brake fails after you took some parts out it's all your fault, even if you burned those parts out by over-heating the caliper. Perhaps &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; if you did that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T01:37:40.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23661" CreationDate="2014-07-17T01:39:42.890" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you experienced was brake fade. There are two reasons why it happens: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fluid inside the brake boils releasing gas into the system which makes the brakes feel spongy and then non-existant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pad and rotor heat up sufficiently to not work, this feels like you are applying the brake but it doesn't work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You look to have experienced the first. This is exacerbated by water in the brake line as that boils at a lower point, the DOT fluid in the Avid brakes is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hygroscopy&quot;&gt;hygroscopic&lt;/a&gt; and will attract and retain water in the brake fluid. You may have also had air in the line which would have also exacerbated the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additional weight of the trailer and kids (I'd estimate an additional 100kg nearly) put more work on the brakes to keep speed low. This is the main cause of the brake fade and why you may not of experienced it before. Braking technique plays a big part although in this situation outside of your control. If you drag the brakes (long continuous periods of moderate braking) rather than short bursts you will see the brakes heat up much quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first instance let the brakes cool to get you home. After that it would also be worth bleeding the brakes with new DOT fluid as well to purge the system of air and water. Also I wouldn't try to take that much weight downhill on a trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T06:53:11.173" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T06:53:11.173" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23661" CreationDate="2014-07-17T03:37:51.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets put some physics to play (mostly because I want to do some numbers....) Assume the brakes did all the work..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;200kg all up weight of rider, bike, trailer and kids. 350Meter vertical descent means you need to dissipate 700kJ of energy = 200WH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a reference to &quot;Road and mountain brakes must absorb 75 watt-hours of energy over a 15-minute period without failure to be legal for sale in Europe&quot; so will use it for my calculations. 200WH at 75WH/15Min is 40 Minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So assuming you spend 40 minutes doing the descent not to exceed the 75WH/15m limit of the brakes, and the the angle of the slope is 15 degrees, 350Mters is about 1.5km - you could safely descend the hill at no more than 2km/hour -seems too slow. Maybe that standard is 75WH/15m per brake - so you could twice as fast 4km/h. Even if other friction, tire scrubbing and aerodynamic losses (At that speed ?) were 1/2 of the energy loss - you cannot exceed 8km/h without over heating the brakes. But a cold set of brakes stores energy as heat - so what is the acceptable rate of energy dissipation after 15 minutes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, you boiled the fluid - replacing it is not going to fix the problem. If you do this again with the kids.... &quot;Your gonna need a bigger brake&quot;... duh da, duh da.... (...Movie reference...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In researching this answer I am now far more aware of limitations of my brakes - thanks....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T09:12:19.123" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T09:12:19.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23670" CreationDate="2014-07-17T03:59:57.550" Score="2" ViewCount="6085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a vintage road bike, at the moment there are loose metal bearings in the hubs. Some of the bearings are missing. Can I buy cartridge bearings or do I need to buy loose bearings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13009" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T00:50:56.377" Title="Can I use cartridge bearings on my wheel hub?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23667" CreationDate="2014-07-17T04:45:22.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a cup-and-cone hub, you need the loose bearings. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;These&lt;/a&gt; are some good directions on doing the replacement. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;links&lt;/a&gt; as well for some useful tips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T04:45:22.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23667" CreationDate="2014-07-17T04:49:08.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To use cartridge bearings, the hubs must have been designed to use them (absurd kludges aside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your hubs will almost surely be classic cup-and-cone hubs, and those will need replacement bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, do note that the proper number of bearings for a hub is not necessarily a number that completely 'fills' the cup bearing race. You might not be missing any. 9 is typically common, with a little bit of space where it looks as though you could fit a 10th or 11th. Check with your LBS for how many you'll need for your particular hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T04:49:08.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23720" CreationDate="2014-07-17T11:28:35.280" Score="4" ViewCount="2747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fitted a brand-new pair of Schwalbe Marathon Racer tyres at the start of this year. I've just noticed that there are quite a lot of very small cracks in the side wall of both tyres. (The tread is still good though). Even using a worst-case estimate, I've only done about 3200km this year. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_wear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schwalbe say&lt;/a&gt; the Marathon Racers should last at least 5000 km? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cracks are very small, somewhere between Fig.1 and Fig.2 on the website. The bike has been stored indoors when not in use. They have been great tyres but I'm wary of spending that much on tyres if they need replacing every 8 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dnfa9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tyre cracks&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cracks look like this in various patches most of the way round both sides of each tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addition:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Took the tyre and inner tube off to inspect. I can't see anything like the 'ripples/waves' in the Schwalbe pictures. Most of the slits are in the same position as those pictured above, i.e. between the start of the tread and the dynamo track. (A few are slightly lower though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12861" LastEditorUserId="12861" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T21:46:55.307" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T23:25:21.213" Title="Should tyre sidewalls appear cracked so quickly?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23667" CreationDate="2014-07-17T11:57:50.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally when new there is room for about half a ball additional in the bearing race, but very quickly wear of the cup makes it look like a ball is missing.  And a ball bearing assembly can function reasonably well with 2-3 balls actually missing (though this will cause faster wear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual technique, when you don't know for sure if any balls have been lost (or how many) is to go for &quot;full minus one&quot; -- enough balls to fill the race, then take one out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The balls are cheap and any decent bike shop will have them.  (Take a ball or two with you for the shop to measure.)  If you replace any balls, though, replace &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of them, since the old ones will be worn and not have exactly the same diameter.  (And always get 2-3 more than you need, since you'll always drop one or two and not be able to find them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that normally there is an odd number of balls -- 9 or 11, eg.  But there's no theoretical basis for this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use cartridge bearings you'd have to replace the hubs, or at the very least get a machine shop to machine the hubs to accept the cartridges (thought there's likely not enough &quot;meat&quot; to allow this).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had cartridge hubs in the past and they're not necessarily trouble-free.  Cartridges were &quot;the in thing&quot; back maybe 1985, but now you only see them in cranks (where there is room to place a cartridge with no compromises).  But if you want cartridge hubs, I believe Phil Woods is still the go-to company to get them (or was last I checked).  (And note that the cartridge hubs will not look like standard hubs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T20:15:28.707" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T20:15:28.707" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23661" CreationDate="2014-07-17T17:33:46.817" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though there are some very good answers here already, I get the impression you are more interested in why the brakes &lt;em&gt;suddenly&lt;/em&gt; stopped working after you stopped riding for a moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a brakes expert, but I have a solid background in thermodynamics. From that perspective, it sounds like what happened (as explained above) is that you had boiling occurring, which means that as you continue to apply the brakes there is additional heat energy put into the system. Once boiling occurs, the additional input of energy leads to an increase in pressure and temperature in an enclosed system like this one until the rate of leakage reaches an equilibrium with the heat energy input. This means that even though there is a problem, there is pressure in the system so that when you squeeze the handle, the brake is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as you stop, the addition of heat energy to the system ends. Think of a pot of boiling water on a stove: if you lift it off of the burner it will instantly stop boiling (though the temperature will not instantly drop) because you are lacking the energy required to sustain conversion of liquid to gas (latent heat of vaporization), even though the temperature is still high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your brake system, the boiling may continue for a short time as the pressure decreases due to your leakage (this lowers the required temperature to boil the liquid, so the liquid will continue to vaporize and sacrifice more of its heat energy to do so, and temperature and pressure will lower together until the pressure is no longer high enough to leak or pressure has reached ambient atmospheric pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you were riding the brakes, the expanding gases filled the void created by the leakage and maintained pressure high. Once the boiling ceased, the gases either condensed or returned to normal pressure (if there was any non-condensing gas in there) except that now you have less liquid in the system that you started with and a vacant space filled with gas at low pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time you try to apply the brakes, the response will be almost nothing because of the huge void in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13022" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T17:33:46.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23678" CreationDate="2014-07-17T18:52:18.390" Score="7" ViewCount="14922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do understand that this question been asked million times, and million people have million different opinions and it's all down to personal preferences, yet I am struggling and need to find a solution that would work best for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there's no question - clipless pedals are better. I knew that when I was buying my bike and now I have &quot;Look&quot; pedals, and of course I had to learn to unclip them safely without falling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can do that now, but clipping the cleat back into the pedal is my biggest pain. The pedal's back-side is heavier than its front, so it allways dangles upside-down and I have to keep kicking it with my toe, until it rotates back to its normal position. And even after that I usually struggle to get it clipped. And in the city it's a huge problem - sometimes, I have to roll without clipping it till a next red light. And very often that sucker ironically clips right before the light. Also the &quot;Look&quot; cleats are made of plastic and they definitely will deform over time, making it even harder to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I even thought about installing a regular pedal for one foot, but then decided it's a bad, bad idea and I don't really want that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you guys tell me if I should definitely try using SPD-SLs? Are they much better? Can someone who actually had experienced both systems (and maybe older SPD as well) can tell me that I would benefit from spending another hundred bucks and more? Or there's a way to train myself to clip without even having to look down and this is a newbie's problem and I will forget about it very soon, after maybe fifty thousand stops and after replacing forty pairs of cleats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I noticed that I prefer to unclip my left foot and stand on it, so my left cleat is going to wear off faster. Are left and right cleats are the same? Can I just keep replacing one cleat (although I noticed they always sold in pairs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Look cleats are not compatible with SPD-SL, right? What about shoes? Would I need to buy another pair of shoes as well, if I decide to switch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPD&lt;/strong&gt;: Switched to SPD. And I gotta tell you, it feels &lt;strong&gt;significantly&lt;/strong&gt; better.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, I don't care that these XT 785s are meant for mountain bikes, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't care that they almost twice heavier than my KEOs, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't care that KEOs were almost twice the price i.e. maybe of&#xA;better quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't care that SPD is older technology than Look and SPD-SL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, like Genghis Khan's adviser said once to his son: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is possible to conquer the world sitting in a saddle but impossible to rule the empire from it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said - riding a road bike is not always about speed, it's also about comfort. Maybe advocates of asymmetrical pedals would disagree, but I love my new pedals, they are awesome. Also I think now I understand why my previous pedals company called &quot;Look&quot; - you damn can't clip them in without looking straight at your foot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12954" LastEditorUserId="12954" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T03:36:25.907" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T04:53:13.203" Title="Clipless pedals: Why clipping in so darn difficult?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23610" CreationDate="2014-07-17T19:34:44.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem in the past, and I also investigated the possibility of brake pads contamination. But in the end the problem was that the rotor was not tight enough. If your bike is new, maybe you need to check the screws of the rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that with sintered and semi-metallic pads if you use the brakes for long time continuously, it heats the pads and hardens their surfaces so you are likely to notice a reduced braking power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13024" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T21:21:02.050" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T21:21:02.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23676" CreationDate="2014-07-17T19:56:25.123" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is part comment, part answer, but too long to fit in a comment, so here we go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I use SPD, and when I ride with a group, everyone else has SPD-SL or LOOK.  I'm usually clipped in and across the intersection before they're clipped in.  Either I'm just really good at clipping in, or SPD are designed to be easier to get clipped in to. Even the very experienced riders tend to have problems with clipping in from time to time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I don't know what advantage SPD-SL offers over SPD. People say that the larger platform allows for better power transfer, but I don't see how that makes difference. The foot pushes on the hard sole of the shoe, and sole of the shoe pushes on the pedal, which is made of rigid metal. Assuming there is no flex in the pedal or the sole of the shoe, it doesn't matter how large the attachment point is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would recommend you try out a pair of SPDs. Borrow some from a friend or see if the shop has a demo pair and see if that works better for you. Too many shops will push you towards road pedals (either SPD-SL or LOOK) because you're riding on the road, and you will break &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#34&quot;&gt;&quot;Rule 34&quot;&lt;/a&gt; if you use mountain pedals on a road bike. I think that SPD pedals are a much better solution unless you're an actual road racer and only plan to unclip at the end of the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T19:56:25.123" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23676" CreationDate="2014-07-17T23:30:20.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the key to your problem is the asymmetrical nature of SPD-SL pedals. So I don't think the Look pedals will help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at symmetrical pedals, such SpeedPlay, Crank Brothers Egg Beaters, SPDs and the Time Atac range. This style of pedal is much easier to clip into because you can just mash your foot at the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9203/1588&quot;&gt;Have a look at this answer&lt;/a&gt; for more discussion on the pros and cons of many pedal styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T23:42:31.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-18T00:37:51.873" Score="1" ViewCount="2015" Body="&lt;p&gt;What specific spokes do I need for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/gear/product/p.sl0.wheelsystem/558/38547/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giant PSL0s wheelset&lt;/a&gt;. I know they are DT Swiss but what kind and maybe where to get them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13027" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T00:50:34.893" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T06:12:22.843" Title="What kind of spokes for Giant PSL0 wheelset" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23680" CreationDate="2014-07-18T02:00:37.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you building this wheel yourself? There's a bit of planning that goes into building a wheel. As Daniel mentioned, length and gauge are important, but even before that you must have a hub that will accommodate the same number of spokes that the wheel will. Afterward, the number of spokes you will need will dictate what lacing pattern you should use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon has the answers&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13030" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T02:00:37.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23680" CreationDate="2014-07-18T05:40:59.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the link you posted, the Giant PSL0s wheelset look like complete DT Swiss wheels, using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtswiss.com/Components/Hubs-Road&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;240S Straightpull&lt;/a&gt; hubs and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtswiss.com/Components&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RR 450&lt;/a&gt; (click &quot;Rims Road&quot;) hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtswiss.com/Home&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DT Swiss&lt;/a&gt; site has a spoke calculator at the bottom of the page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; experienced wheel builder then go for it. If not, &lt;strong&gt;get a pro to do it&lt;/strong&gt;. Asymmetrical wheels are a whole new level up from &quot;traditional&quot; wheels, with higher tensions, and often blade spokes. From my reading, Sheldon is no help here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are nice wheels. Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T05:40:59.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23680" CreationDate="2014-07-18T06:04:02.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really ought to be contacting Giant about this, even if for no other reason than to seek clarification of their web page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link you posted tells you that they are DT Aero Competition bladed stainless steel, and you don't have to look far on the DT Swiss web site to find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dtswiss.com/Components/Spokes/DT-aero-comp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these exact spokes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What your link doesn't say is the length of the spokes. For that, you'll either need to measure them or contact Giant. Note that there will likely be 3 different spoke lengths in play - front, drive and non-drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards purchasing, depends how many you want to buy and how deep your pockets are. These spokes will likely come out of the factory in boxes of 100 spokes. If you're prepared to buy in this kind of quantity then I'm sure any DT Swiss dealer will be able to help you (assuming, of course, you know the lengths). Again, the DT Swiss site will help you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you only want one or two spokes then this is more problematic, since most dealers aren't prepared to keep boxes of spokes lying around on the off-chance that they'll sell one or two every now and again. One source I've used in the past is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelbuilder.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wheelbuilder.com&lt;/a&gt;, which was a very pleasant experience (Ca to UK in around 36 hours). There may be other sources which are cheaper/more convenient, but these guys stock your spokes. But again, you'd need to tell them what lengths you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T06:12:22.843" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T06:12:22.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23689" CreationDate="2014-07-17T19:59:41.240" Score="2" ViewCount="2138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any advantages of presta inner tube valves over schrader inner tube valves (or vice versa)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Presta&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/phY2T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;schrader&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KZGwL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always wondered why 2 exist. Apart from their radically different design I don't understand why you'd choose one over the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13035" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2018-04-15T19:36:05.840" LastActivityDate="2018-04-15T19:36:05.840" Title="Presta vs schrader valves" Tags="&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2014-07-18T19:11:52.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23687" CreationDate="2014-07-17T20:07:29.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Presta valve stems are 6 mm diameter, whereas Schrader valve stems for bicycle tires are 8 mm, thus &lt;strong&gt;requiring a larger diameter hole in a bicycle rim&lt;/strong&gt;. While not a concern on wider bike rims, it will &lt;strong&gt;weaken a narrow wheel rim&lt;/strong&gt;, precluding their use on (road) racing bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schrader-valved are usually available at gas stations as they are the same for car tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="ppl" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T20:07:29.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23687" CreationDate="2014-07-17T21:20:09.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your rim (bore diameter) you don't have the choice unless you are willing to tweak your bike a bit (or use an adapter). Cross-Country or Marathon Hardtails and racing bicycles usually use Presta aka Sclaverand or French Valve (at least we call it like that in Germany). This type of valve opens when you put the pump on it (after you opened the screw). This allows for measuring the pressure but unfortunately it can be really annoying because you normally release some air when trying to set the pump correctly. Still, Presta allows for a pressure up to 15bar. This is required by racing bicycles. A disadvantage is the thin and long shaft which makes it more likely to bend the valve unwanted. Still this can be an advantage because this more elegant design reduces weight and therefore dynamic unbalance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schrader only allows up to 10bar pressure. Because the valve opens mechanically, we can measure the air pressure just like for Presta. The risk of &lt;em&gt;loosing&lt;/em&gt; air/pressure at the beginning is lower because you first set the pump on the valve and just afterwards open the valve with a lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest advantage of Schrader is that you can use pumps at gas stations &lt;strong&gt;without an adapter&lt;/strong&gt;. Those adapters are really cheap and small, I always carry one in my purse between the change. But still you don't have the risk to loose that adapter when you are using Schrader valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest disadvantage of Schrader is the relatively small pressure you are able to establish using hand pumps due to the bigger cross sectional area (p=F/A). Because of the differences in the mechanical construction and therefore the sealing, also with automatic pumps you can't achieve the big pressures compared to tires with Presta valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see both valves have their pros and cons. Simplified, If you have &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thin rims and/or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't want to disturb the stability of the rim and the dynamics of the tire and/or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;need big tire pressure &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't care about the issues of maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you should use Presta. For all other cases, use Schrader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;By the way there are more than two types of valves used for bicycles but I think the two mentioned are widest spread&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13034" OwnerDisplayName="EverythingRightPlace" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T21:20:09.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23692" CreationDate="2014-07-17T21:33:12.093" Score="5" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some days now I am observing the decreasing performance of my disc brakes on my MTB. Additionally, braking is extremely loud (squeaking). I don't think I have oil or fatty substances on the discs. Still I can't exclude that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So what do you think is the problem and how can I solve it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess I have to change the brakeshoes but I am not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I check the actual problem without wasting time/money?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I have to apply new brakeshoes, how is this done safely?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brakes are hydraulic: Shimano Deore BR-M596.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13034" OwnerDisplayName="EverythingRightPlace" LastEditorUserId="3631" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T18:06:43.510" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T20:29:43.340" Title="Disc brake maintenance" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-18T08:34:10.123" Score="1" ViewCount="1332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started to hear creaking/clicking sounds from the saddle tube. &lt;strong&gt;Is the frame giving up?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I could look for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.de/XXL-ALU-SATTELST%C3%9CTZE-%C3%9CBERL%C3%84NGE-50/dp/B003IB77WC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1405670710&amp;amp;sr=8-9&amp;amp;keywords=fahrrad%20sattelstange&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a longer saddle post&lt;/a&gt;, if that would relieve some of the strain on this part of the frame, but I'm not sure what length to get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've measured the outer diameter of the post to be approx. 27mm -- but what is the proper name/size for this dimension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a 58 (cm/in?) aluminum frame with 28&quot; wheels, roughly 10 years old. I've got the saddle fairly high, but I'm a tall guy (192cm, 95kg) so it needs to be like this. When I put a heel on the lowest pedal, my leg is practically straight. Perhaps I should buy a bike with a bigger frame, if that exists, but I am hoping to avoid significant expenses. The bike is otherwise in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Updates to comments:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle post is 1cm lower than its &quot;max&quot; mark. Close, but okay - perhaps too close, given my weight? (95kg)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frame and post is metal, presumably both aluminum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creaking goes away when standing. That's why I suspect this area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle clamp and rails seem good on visual inspection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NbuHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="275" LastEditorUserId="275" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T05:47:31.680" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T01:27:15.563" Title="Creaking sounds from the saddle tube?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23690" CreationDate="2014-07-18T09:29:43.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of simple things you can do to try improve performance before replacing the brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the pads to see how worn they are. Here is an example of a new and worn pad requiring replacing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ax2zD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image from park tools&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pads don't appear to need replacing you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightly sand the pad with fine sand paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol (or any non-residue solvent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that eliminates the squeaking but doesn't improve performance the next step is to bleed brakes. If you have Avid similar brakes the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/avid-reg-juicy-caliper-brake-bleed-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;process&lt;/a&gt; (similar for Juicy and Elixirs) is more involved than the Shimano &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/shimano-r-hydraulic-brake-service-and-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;process&lt;/a&gt; and make require professional assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T09:29:43.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23676" CreationDate="2014-07-18T12:29:44.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use these spd's:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/review/43776-shimano-pd-m520-spd-pedal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://road.cc/content/review/43776-shimano-pd-m520-spd-pedal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are double sided, so you never get the wrong side to clip in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are durable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shoes you buy with them usually allow (easyish) walking when&#xA;required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can buy both road &amp;amp; mountain biking shoes - with a single pedal type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that's more of a &quot;comment&quot; answer, but hope it might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T12:29:44.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23700" CreationDate="2014-07-18T14:35:13.907" Score="7" ViewCount="4126" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's just me, but most of the commercial degreasers sold in bike shops seem pretty expensive for what they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While they work well for lightweight grime, especially when used regularly, they just don't cut it when it comes to cleaning off months' worth of caked-on road grease and filth. Lots of time and elbow grease required (or a stiff brush, which can damage the finish on some parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Community mechanic that I am, I often end up sorting out friends' bikes for them. Now when it comes to salvaging a neglected bike, there is only one thing that is cheap and potent enough to make my task bearable: &lt;strong&gt;petrol&lt;/strong&gt; (gasp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I know. Awful for your skin and lungs, and the surrounding environment, and a stupendously good fire hazard, but it takes off just about any gunk in seconds. I realise that this may just spell death for a nice laquer finish, but I always use it quickly and sparingly, and I've never seen any ill effects to date. A nice rub down with oil and wax afterwards, and the job's a good 'un.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously - 5 litres of petrol is cheaper than 500ml of degreaser. It is also 5,000,000,000 times worse for myself and everybody around me. Without hating on me for being a terrible being, can anybody recommend me a suitably cheap alternative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T23:36:18.190" Title="Cheap, effective degreaser recommendations?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23676" CreationDate="2014-07-18T14:53:43.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR : Having a quality pedal means that it will always be in the same position when you need to clip in and will make you life much easier when starting.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the problem might be the &quot;cheapness&quot; of the pedals, let me explain :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride look and have been using Look Keo Carbon pedals, they are middle range (more expensive than the Easy and less than titanium ones). I have the same &quot;backside is more heavy&quot; problem, but I think it's a feature. You see my pedals are ALWAYS at 1 oclock top and 7 o'clock bottom, so all I have to do is get the tip of the cleat in the top &quot;hook&quot; and then clip right in, I'm usually clipped after 1 or 2 pedal rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, my friend has the cheapest look Easy pedals, in his case, the spindle if much less smooth and the pedals won't always be at the same position after unclipping. So each time he starts he has to replace the pedal in the right directions like you do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipping in and out takes a lot of practice, and I mean a lot. I'm still struggling sometime even after 4 years of riding, there's always a moment where you start too quickly and can't get in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for cleats, yes they're plastic, but they are made to be replaced regularly, they use up instead of using up the pedal material. Don't cheap out when changing cleats, change both of them even if one is less used than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T14:53:43.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10083" CreationDate="2014-07-18T14:54:14.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have thought about this a lot. What usually works for me is raising the left hand palm in and fingers up and covering my ear and lowering the head slightly. a gesture of submission, the covering of the ear &quot;please don't yell at me for my mistake&quot;. Then raising palm upward and forward in a surrender mode. &lt;strong&gt;I am sorry.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13041" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T14:54:14.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23697" CreationDate="2014-07-18T15:15:59.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to an auto parts store. In the case of cleaners and the like they typically sell the same things in larger packs and larger quantities than bike stores. They often also have a house brand that's cheaper than the other stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get degreaser in the spray can (something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gunk.com/products/cat_det.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GunkFoam&lt;/a&gt; or also a non-foam version). Or you can get a solvent as used as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Next-Dimension-Professional-strength-parts-cleaner/_/N-2602?itemIdentifier=373000_0_0_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;parts cleaner&lt;/a&gt;. The linked one is 5 gallon but you can find it in 1 gallon as well.  This is good for soaking parts or dipping a small brush to clean parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also try household degreaser like Purple Power – it works better than you would guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And another trick is tire cleaner. For that profession detail look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T15:30:01.037" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T15:30:01.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23703" CreationDate="2014-07-18T15:19:33.990" Score="4" ViewCount="1984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this bike:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/int/en/bikes/mountain/cross_country/superfly/superfly_9_8/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trekbikes.com/int/en/bikes/mountain/cross_country/superfly/superfly_9_8/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame Size is 17.5 &#xA;Crank is: Shimano Deore XT, 38/24&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a garmin edge. It asks for Crank length for the cadence business. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get my crank length?  Should I get out a tape and measure it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13042" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T21:13:52.430" Title="What is the crank length on a Shimano Deore XT?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23702" CreationDate="2014-07-18T15:25:50.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For that frame size, most likely 170mm, but you can measure from the centre of the pedal spindle to the centre of the BB:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cl1k6.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xt-m785-10-speed-double-chainset/rp-prod67200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A popular online bike shop&lt;/a&gt; lists available crank lengths of 165, 170, 175, and 180. Presumably if you buy the bike &quot;ready built&quot; it will come with cranks chosen to match the frame size. But 165mm cranks are relatively rare outside of track / fixed gear circles. 170 and 175 are pretty ubiquitous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T21:13:52.430" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T21:13:52.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7737" CreationDate="2014-07-18T16:12:28.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some good points above, but first of all you should ask the venue to check that you'd even be allowed on the track. Most velodromes have pretty draconian rules. Minimum BB height, maximum crank length, specific pedal requirements, restrictions on bottle cages, brake/rack/mudguard bosses... the list goes on. You'd almost certainly have to remove your brakes and levers altogether, rather than simply disconnecting them. You may also need to fit dedicated track drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T16:12:28.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23716" CreationDate="2014-07-18T17:42:36.483" Score="2" ViewCount="17000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike that use Shimano 105 PD-5800 SPD-SL pedals and they are wonderful when exercising. However I would like to be able to use the bike with regular shoes for more casual use of the bike, but I also don't want to exercise unnecessary wear and tear on the pedals by not using a cleat. Are there any cleats (for SPD-SL) that convert the pedal to a regular flat platform for regular shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this question is similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3912/recommendations-for-clipless-pedals-that-can-be-used-with-regular-shoes&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; but I ask for a special cleat that converts the SPD-SL pedal to a regular flat platform and not a hybrid platform. I want to keep my Shimano 105 PD-5800:s since I really enjoy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13045" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T19:49:37.740" Title="Are there any cleats (for SPD-SL) that convert the pedal to a regular flat platform for regular shoes?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23705" CreationDate="2014-07-18T18:25:12.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out this is not the correct style (question is for SL)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the Shimano part number  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SHIMANO SM-PD20&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some and they are a pain. The are hard to insert and remove and you have to spin the pedal to get the correct side up.  I would rather swap out pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a reflector but not sure if it is meant to step on &lt;a href=&quot;http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Pedals/SI-PD22D-001/SI-PD22D-001-ENG_v1_m56577569830661952.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reflector insert&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T18:45:30.223" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T18:45:30.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23710" CreationDate="2014-07-18T18:55:38.747" Score="7" ViewCount="12077" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a guy and since I started wearing a helmet for mostly Trail Riding and occasionally for commuting, I noticed that the helmet looks really large on my head. My doctor later confirmed with a tape that my head is slightly smaller than average, and this explains why my helmet looks weird on me. I would like to wear a smaller helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of questions in this regard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are Women's helmets any smaller than men's?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they are, would it be &lt;strong&gt;safe&lt;/strong&gt; for me to wear one (assuming I can find a color I like!) ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there in fact helmets for teenagers that might be useful in my situation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am slightly below average height and about 145 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T03:51:11.553" Title="Can a guy wear a woman's helmet safely?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23713" CreationDate="2014-07-18T18:58:06.523" Score="3" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you guys think about bike-discount.de&#xA;Has anyone had experience with this website and Radon bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12959" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T21:17:05.953" Title="Cheap german bikes and online shopping" Tags="&lt;germany&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23707" CreationDate="2014-07-18T19:16:08.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many helmets are offered in various sizes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Often the cheaper helmets will only come in one size.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is an example of a helmet offered in 3 sizes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bellhelmets.com/cycling/helmets/pavement/lumen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bell Lumen&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Many of the helmets also offers an adjustable band.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A mountain bike helmet should work fine for commuting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T19:22:05.543" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T19:22:05.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23707" CreationDate="2014-07-18T19:17:30.687" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Women's&quot; helmet is a pure marketing feature. All helmets have to pass the same safety standards and if it fits wear it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most helmet models come in at least 2 or 3 sizes. You should be able to find a helmet in the size that fits your head diameter. All the major manufacturers make helmets for every head size from 2 year olds to XL for adults. Every helmet should&#xA;have the head size range listed somewhere on the box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T19:17:30.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23708" CreationDate="2014-07-18T19:21:44.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ordered components there several times and in most cases everything went fine. The last order had some flaws but as far as I could reconstruct that was more the parcel service's fault than theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot tell anything about their bikes from own experience but the last time I was buying a bike (some 6 or so years ago) a lo of people seemed to recommend their Radon MTBs as being good bikes with quite good components. It looked as if one would get a lot of value for the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T19:21:44.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-18T20:22:09.743" Score="0" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to purchase a cheap (maybe around 200-300€) and spartanic single-speed racer-like bike. I don't need fancy extras - just wheels, a frame, and brakes (but please no backpadel-brake and with freewheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to have this kind of bike mainly for the city to be able to make some speed and have fun with it. I don't want the expense and maintenance of gear change on this bike. I don't want the fear of an overprized &lt;em&gt;steal-inviting&lt;/em&gt; deceiver/poser bike. &lt;strong&gt;Simplicity wins.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where should I search when I am looking for such a bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second hand is an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13034" LastEditorUserId="13034" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T20:33:30.513" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T20:33:30.513" Title="Where to purchase a simple single-speed?" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;germany&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-07-18T20:27:38.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23708" CreationDate="2014-07-18T21:17:05.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ordered small and large parts from bike-discount.de. 100% satisfied and cheapest price for those specific parts at that time after comparing with at least 6 other known e-shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding cheap german bikes, I don't know about Radon (they don't seem to be well known to the rest of the EU), but I own a canyon torque for the last 3 years and a pal of mine owns a yt noton (both companies well known around the globe). Both are cheap german bikes with high end specs at lowest price possible. We are both 100% satisfied with the bikes, the build and 90% satisfied with after market support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T21:17:05.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3215" CreationDate="2014-07-18T22:00:57.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dumpster Diving, maybe even at a thrift store&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13048" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T22:00:57.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23705" CreationDate="2014-07-18T23:40:06.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't find any factory made component, you can always get down the do-it-yourself route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to set of instructions on how to make ones for Shimano PD 520/540:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Pedal-platforms-for-Shimano-PD-520540/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Pedal-platforms-for-Shimano-PD-520540/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea of it is to get hold of an extra pair of cleats, affix them with appropriate bolts to a suitable small platform that somehow resembles a non cleated pedal and add some sort of anti slippage material to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ever have attached your shoes to your pedals while not wearing them, you'll find not difficult to install and remove such contraption from your pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have never used this type of adaptor (I've been very tempted though) but I assume this is just for leisure pedalling, like a short trip to the corner store, I woluld not advise to use them for training, racing, stunts nor any type of demanding riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you mention loving your pedals, (wich I think means you really really like using your cleated shoes) I would advise to better carry your normal shoes and change them while you arrive to your destination. A small saddlebag, a stylized handlebar bag, or even a small backpack is a convenient solution to carry both your normal shoes while riding, and your cleated shoes while walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T23:40:06.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23705" CreationDate="2014-07-19T00:01:17.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a ready made part, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://flypedals.com/&quot;&gt;Fly Pedals&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is essentially just a metal platform, which you bolt cleats onto, then clip them into your pedals. They are threaded with holes for 2-bolt or 3-bolt cleats, so should work with most mountain bike or road bike clipless pedals (including SPD-SL).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note these are not yet available, but you can pre-order them from the Fly Pedals website. Some more details on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1513937573/flypedals-universal-clipless-bike-pedal-adapter&quot;&gt;Fly Pedals on Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt; - that page says delivery from end of July 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T00:01:17.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23718" CreationDate="2014-07-19T01:03:20.703" Score="5" ViewCount="1023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to bicycling and have been riding for a month or so. I just saw a few questions here regarding cleaning of the chain and thought &quot;whoa, I should clean the chain&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How dirty (visually) should the chain and cogs be before I should consider cleaning them (pictures are welcome)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use my bike on daily basis for commuting, 4-6km a day.&#xA;As of weather: I live in Florida, Fort Walton Beach. You can take a brief look at the temperature and humidity history on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=fort+walton+beach+humidity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wolframalpha&lt;/a&gt; (consider changing range to &quot;Past Year&quot; for better overview).&#xA;It's pretty clean here though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the photos of the chain and cogs that represent condition after a month of riding:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fTYi0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chain&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BYE5z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear cogs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain is definitely not dry, I can feel the lubricant if I touch them.&#xA;Should I consider clearning/relubricating them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13050" LastEditorUserId="13050" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T19:43:52.343" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T19:43:52.343" Title="How dirty should the chain and the cogs be before I should consider cleaning them?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23717" CreationDate="2014-07-19T05:20:46.360" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately its going to be down to how zealous you want to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you think of cleaning a chain, you need to think of two things. First, there is the cleaning - getting off the dirt and lube that has caked itself onto the chain. Then, there is lubing the chain to make it run nicely, (As part of a lube you'd maybe give the chain a rub with a dry cloth to try and get surface crap off, but wouldn't be soaking it in degreaser).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When maintaining a chain, you wouldn't necessarily do both of these at the same time. You would lube the chain quite regularly, but most likely would clean the chain less frequently. You'd never clean the chain without also lubing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For frequency of lubing, the answer is &quot;it depends&quot;. We all have different preferences. If its a bike that doesn't get ridden often, you'd maybe lube the chain before every ride. A commuter, ridden daily, you'd maybe lube every week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you need to recognise that there are (many) different types of lube, for different conditions. The viscosity varies a lot between them. So if you're putting a lightweight dry lube on your chain (which you might do in the summer), its going to be far less likely to muck up your chain than a gloopy wet weather lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer to &quot;when do I clean it?&quot; is also &quot;it depends&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you don't want any dirt on your chain. That would improve both smoothness and chain life. So the anal extreme is to clean and lube it after every ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most probably you'd go through the &quot;lube&quot; process several times before you considered degreasing. And, as I say, the lube you use will determine likely you are to pick up crap off the road. A wet weather lube, for example, might be good at repelling water, but it's corresponding stickiness will also attract dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to stick my finger in the air I'd say that personally I give my chains a thorough degrease probably around 3 times a year (on the bikes that I ride regularly). But knowing when to do this, I judge this by looking how much crap is on it as I'm lubing it - it's certainly balanced toward winter/wet riding, but it's a judgement call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give the cogs a decent clean at the same time as you clean the chain, otherwise you're just going to transfer muck from on to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T11:24:45.770" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T11:24:45.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15343" CreationDate="2014-07-19T08:07:09.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &quot;No&quot;. Intermittent fasting is not all about weight loss, although &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19197210?dopt=Abstract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;it can help with that, apparently without compromising performance&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's research showing that this approach can increase the effect of training, in particular &lt;em&gt;VO2 Max&lt;/em&gt;, which is often of interest to cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20452283&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adaptations to skeletal muscle with endurance exercise training in the acutely fed versus overnight-fasted state.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The FAST group showed a significantly greater training-induced&#xA;  increase in VO(2max) and resting muscle glycogen concentration than&#xA;  FED (P=0.014 and P=0.047 respectively), but there was no gender&#xA;  interaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leangains.com/2010/05/fasted-training-boosts-endurance-and.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blog post&lt;/a&gt; is a few years old, but discussed the detail of a study comparing fasting or fed regimes in training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also claims of &lt;a href=&quot;http://idaimakaya.com/books/the-handbook-of-intermittent-fasting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;long-term health improvements&lt;/a&gt;, I think these are less well-studied, but there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20837645&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some relevant research&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does also help to lose weight, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19197210?dopt=Abstract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;improve power-to-weight ratio&lt;/a&gt;, although that may not be of interest to the OP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're actually thinking of doing it, one of the essential points is to &lt;strong&gt;have a good recovery meal after&lt;/strong&gt; training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T08:57:30.070" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T08:57:30.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23672" CreationDate="2014-07-19T08:20:50.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really an answer, but I put it here to separate it from the comments about using a decent track pump...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Daniel R Hicks makes a good point about the cracks - they seem to be between the tread and sidewall. This suggests to me that there are two different rubber compounds that aren't &quot;mating&quot; well. According to a few mechanics I know, Schwalbe have had some quality control problems in the last year. I can second this - the relatively recent Ultremo racing tyre range have had some decidedly dodgy sidewalls, and I've had one which separated from the main tread strip within weeks. However, other sets seem fine and are some of the most comfortable, grippy tyres I've ever ridden, and they're lasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you've kept your tyres in direct sunlight all year, I'd suggest it's a rubber/adhesive issue. Try contacting Schwalbe and see if this is a warranty issue... after all, Marathons are made for milage and aren't cheap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T08:20:50.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23722" CreationDate="2014-07-19T13:01:23.067" Score="4" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going on my first big touring trip (2 weeks – that's big for me). I've found some nice light-weight camping chairs and I'm wondering if it's worth investing in one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://creamteam.be/WordPress3/archives/1500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Two basic options&lt;/a&gt; seem to stand out: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Eureka Helinox&lt;/strong&gt; is a proper foldout chair. price ~$100. weight: ~1kg. very well reviewed, folds up small.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thermarest plus&lt;/strong&gt; is basically a frame for your thermarest sleeping pad (which i already have). price ~$40. weight: .2kg. very well reviewed, and folds up even smaller than than helinox.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm happy to spend the dough if it's worthwhile, but I don't want to waste money or space on something totally frivolous. Put another way, a bit of luxury would be nice but I dont want to be cursing my every pedal all trip either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with this? Is it the sort of thing where you're like 'I'd kill for a chair after biking all day' or is sitting on the ground for weeks totally fine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastEditorUserId="11212" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T14:56:27.810" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T00:45:18.737" Title="The Value of a Chair on a Touring Trip" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23721" CreationDate="2014-07-19T14:11:44.227" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience (week long camping / bike touring trips), I have never thought &quot;Man, I wish I had a chair.&quot; I have often thought, &quot;I have packed way too much stuff.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things to consider. You have looked into weight and cost, but there is also space and time considerations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volume: Do you have space on your rack to put this? How small does it fold up? Does it fit in a bag, or will you have to strap it on top? The surface area can also be a factor: a smaller profile is going to be nice to have on those windy days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time: How long is it going to take to unpack this item / everything else? If it takes 5 minutes to unpack this and another 5 to pack it up, then you probably are not going to bother with it for a short break or even a lunch stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Utility: How many uses does it have? Do you have other items that would work just as well in a pinch? For example, if you already have a towel, you can sit on that or use it to lay down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... as it always is with these questions: it depends. Personally, I just sit on the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T14:11:44.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-19T15:49:46.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently shipped an older beater mtn bike from Atlanta to NY state using ShipMyBike. Used a cardboard shipping box I got for free from my LBS, paid for the FedEx label online and dropped it off at nearby FedEx center. Couldn't have been easier and the bike arrived in fine shape in 3 days for only $50. If I had been shipping a better bike I would have packed it more carefully but still no damage despite the fact that I used no stuffing/packing material and did not put a spacer in the forks or protect the rear derailler. Again these things I would have done for a bike I wanted to be sure was properly protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11223" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T15:49:46.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-19T19:24:14.947" Score="0" ViewCount="6863" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my legs is noticeably more muscular than the other.  I am also more prone to knee pain in the more muscular leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be related to my frequent (I ride 5+ days a week) cycling habit?  Are there any exercises I can do to even this up?  I have to walk/climb stairs a lot at my job...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I even care about this?  What habits can I break that might cause this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T23:20:37.713" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T23:20:37.713" Title="Noticeably more Muscle on one leg than the other?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-07-20T22:54:22.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-19T20:18:41.080" Score="1" ViewCount="792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cycle with small wheels. I had been using it as a child. now I am an adult and I want to replace the small wheels with 26 inches wheels without spending a large amount of money.  I have thought of either putting wheel on the side to make a quadricycle. or welding a small piece of metal to the frame so as to be able to put a bigger wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is any other way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13053" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T20:30:27.677" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T20:37:11.480" Title="Small wheel bike to be converted to bigger wheels" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16253" CreationDate="2014-07-19T20:22:53.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed your average speed is total distance over total time   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding sampling this is where you go wrong:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&quot;If you compute the average over distance instead (i.e., your speed every tenth of a mile), the uphill and downhill are equally weighted.&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No they are not equally weighted.  The denominator is time (not distance). You need to take even samples in time.  You cannot sample on distance if you want to average the sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 miles up the hill and 20 miles down the hill.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Up assume 10 mph and down assume 30 mph.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First total distance over total time&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Total distance is 40 miles&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Total time is 20 miles / 10 mph + 20 miles / 30 mph  = 2 hour up + 2/3 hour down = 8/3 hour  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Average speed = total distance over total time =  40 miles / 8/3 hours = 120 / 8 mph&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= 15 mph  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average speed is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the 10 + 30 / 2 = 20 mph because spent more time at 10 mph.  Spent 3 times as long at 10 mph compared to 30 mph.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sampled every mile then indeed you would get the wrong answer of 15 mph average.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you sampled every minute you would get the right answer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Up the hill you would have 120 samples at 10 mph and down the hill you 40 samples at 30 mph.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(120 * 10) + (40 * 30) / 120 + 40 = 1200 + 1200 / 160 = 240 / 16 = 15.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want to average the sample then the sample needs to based on the denominator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is easier to just use total time over total distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a magic hill that was 10 miles up and 30 miles down then your average speed would be the average as you would spend the same amount of time going up as down.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use any number you want for up versus down the hill.  18 mph up and 20 mph down.  The average speed will not be speed up + speed down / 2.  Because you will spend more time at the lower speed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Average speed is caluculation:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;d is total distance&lt;br&gt;&#xA;su is speed up and sd is speed down&lt;br&gt;&#xA;total distance / total time&lt;br&gt;&#xA;d / (d / 2*su + d / 2*sd)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;d / ( sd*d/2*su*sd + su*d/2*sd*su )&lt;br&gt;&#xA;d / ( (sd*d + su*d) /  2*sd*su ) &#xA;d*2*sd*du / d(su + sd)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2*sd*su / (su + sd)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;hill same distance up as down&lt;br&gt;&#xA;average speed = 2*sd*su / (su + sd)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;in statistics it is called the harmonic mean&lt;br&gt;&#xA;try 10 and 30 and get 15&lt;br&gt;&#xA;try 20 and 20 and get 20&lt;br&gt;&#xA;try 18 and 20 and get 19.95  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T19:09:03.900" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T19:09:03.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23727" CreationDate="2014-07-19T20:37:11.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheapest, safest and most practical option option would be to sell and buy  a second hand bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance I just sold and old, but perfectly usable full suspension MTB that originally cost about $US3500 in 1995 for $US60.00. The buyer got a bargain and I got some space back in my garage. Look for someone who wants some garage space back.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If however you are wanting to make a franken-bike for fun, you will also need to consider the increased wheel size will probably need different gearing, and the frame will be subjected to quite different forces than what it was designed for. You would need new chain, new wheels and tires. Brakes may not be in the right places and might not fit. As it was a kids bike the cranks might be too short. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T20:37:11.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23726" CreationDate="2014-07-19T21:32:20.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's normal to have a small amount of imbalance on one side vs the other. Significant imbalance can be due to injury or neurological issues on the weaker side. If either of those apply, it's also common to have knee pain on the stronger side as it is trying to make up for the weaker side. Even after recovering from injury or neurological problems, it can take months for the weaker side to catch up, even longer without physical therapy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you ever hurt your knee, leg, foot hip, or ankle on the weaker side? Any lower back problems? Sometimes nerve impingement can manifest itself as weakness without pain, but it's more common to have both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T21:32:20.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20977" CreationDate="2014-07-19T21:34:58.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is similar to a flat course versus a hill.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The square factor in the drag is the drag.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume a 20 miles out and 20 miles back&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can hold 20 mph in no wind&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your area A is constant&lt;br&gt;&#xA;cd is constant&lt;br&gt;&#xA;p is constant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a dead still day your work is &#xA;2 hours 1/2 cd p A (20^2)&#xA;dropping out all the constants &#xA;2 hours (20^2) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets assume a 10 mph head wind&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You exactly even things wind resistance out with 10 mph out and 30 mph back&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You have 20 mph net wind out and 20 mph net wind back&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Problem there is time&lt;br&gt;&#xA;time out is 20 mile / 10 mph = 2 hours &#xA;time back is 20 mile / 30 mph = 2/3 hours &#xA;(2 + 2/3) / 2 = 8/3 / 2 = 8/6 = 4/3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So exactly 1/3 more work because you have the same effort for 1/3 longer &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now say you want to hump it for the same time 1.5 hours out plus .5 back&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Out you are doing 13.33 mph + 10 mph wind for 23.33 mph wind resistance&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Back you are doing 40 mph - 10 mph wind for 30 mph wind resistance&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Both ways you are fighting more net wind resistance&lt;br&gt;&#xA;( 1.5 hours (((20/1.5)+10)^2) + .5 hours (((20/.5)-10)^2) )  /&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 hours (20^2)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;same as&#xA;3/2 * ((40/3+10)^2) + 1/4 * ((40-10)^2)  /  2  * (20^2)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;equals &#xA;1.6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You want to hump it in and out at the same time you are going to spend about 1.6 as much work in the a 10 mph wind.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T21:34:58.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23733" CreationDate="2014-07-19T21:39:19.257" Score="8" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my mountain bike buddys has severe issues with downhill riding technique. By downhill I don't mean downhill racing in this context but riding down trails that are rather smooth but with some roots and rocks or short bits that are really steep and require to take one's heart in hand and get one's buttocks far behind the saddle. He has taken a fall over the handlebars some time ago and since then is even more cautious in those things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By chance I learned that he is mostly braking with his rear brake even on flat terrain because he is too anxious about another rollover. I think I have figured out that this non-use of the front brake is the main reason for his downhill issues as the rear brake does by far not provide enough power and control here. I would like to get him back to using the front brake more and to give him more confidence and fun on downhill sections. Unfortunately I don't know how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if he's really aware of his problem yet (hadn't time to talk to him since I figured out the problem myself) and I don't think he has time and motivation to do just stupid practicing sessions somewhere in a park or another &quot;boring&quot; location. So I would be especially be interested in small exercises one could easily include into the weekly ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T22:00:48.030" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T14:59:51.347" Title="How to train front braking technique?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;skills&gt;&lt;braking&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23732" CreationDate="2014-07-20T00:01:21.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets get the social aspects out the way - you can lead a horse  to water and all that stuff.....: Hows your relationship - will he listen to you and is he prepared to take clearly well intended advice. Also does he believe he has a problem and does he want to fix it. If any of these answers is no there little you can do except ruin you friendship. Till hes ready, wait at the bottom of the hill for him, cut him plenty of slack and make sure you both enjoy the riding - if appropriate laugh with him, but never at him. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a night in hospital and metalwork keeping my wrist together, it took years for me to be able to ride a track with large drop off to the side - especially the right - comfortably, yet and off over the handlebars never phased me. After a big off you subconscious needs to be convinced you will not be hurt if it happens again, or it will not happen again, the only way it learns is through repetition without the consequences. You mate has learned hitting the front brake throws you over the bars, so his subconscious will not let him do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presuming hes ready to learn, the and hes is willing to learn from you - Look online for some videos - watch for the rubbish that is out there but you seem to know what you are looking for so should be all right there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chose something he can currently ride comfortably, that you ride faster, with more control and/or more comfortable. Ideal would be a could of tight switchbacks that can only be ridden fast using the front brake to slow into them, yet back only braking merely means you have to go in slower. Safe run out if you don't make it is essential, bonus if its a lake or river that gets you wet or in front of a big crowd of onlookers who will give a good cheer at the screw ups.....The idea is to get something that is safe (physically safe as well mental and ego-safe). He needs to ride something that is not doing in his head, that his subconscious is going &quot;bring it one, this is easy&quot; while his conscious is think how to do it faster/better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible video you and him riding it on the first run and keep it for later. Point out where you are braking differently and ride it for a half day. Each time, both of you try to go faster/more controller/better. If you get bored or it gets too easy, find another spot just a little bit harder.  The aim is ride technically easy ground perfectly before progressing to harder sections.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the session, review the video of the first and last run over a beer.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Work out if you are going to mix this in  with some rides, at the end of a ride is good, but make it really easy as your both tired. A special trip is well worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T00:01:21.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-20T00:41:33.960" Score="1" ViewCount="2356" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does that &quot;LL&quot; mean, stamped (along with the length) on my Mountain Bike's  Shimano BB spindle?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13055" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T00:01:36.743" Title="What does &quot;LL&quot; mean on BB spindle?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23737" CreationDate="2014-07-20T08:17:13.147" Score="6" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a self contained touring trip, I have a 5 piece set of ortlieb bags (handlebars, 2 front rollers, 2 back rollers). I also plan on putting my tent on my back rack. I'm not doing this in a competitive manner. I'm just looking to have some fun on a 2 week tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, in another thread, I became aware that &quot;bulk&quot; can be more of a concern than weight. I'm wondering a few things,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What exactly is bulk? Are we just talking aerodynamics? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would one go about reducing bulk when using panniers? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any tips for reducing bulk in general?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How important would you rank bulk compared to weight, comfort, etc. (given my parameters of prioritizing fun over serious competition)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11212" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T03:11:07.233" Title="Reducing Bulk on a touring trip" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23736" CreationDate="2014-07-20T10:08:41.010" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Bulk' is mostly about whether all of your luggage will fit in your bags. ie is the volume of your luggage less than the capacity of your bags. So it depends on how much stuff you want to take, and how big your panniers are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aerodynamics doesn't really matter for touring. Unless you are cycling rather fast, or it is very windy. Usually the weight of your bike and luggage will make more difference to your speed and effort required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reducing bulk, the main thing is taking less stuff. It also depends on how you pack it. eg if clothes are folded properly, they will be less bulky. Some things can be squashed smaller, eg sleeping bags. Compression bags can help with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth leaving some spare space in your bags. You may want to buy things along the way. eg food supplies can be surprisingly bulky. Or any essential gear you find is missing, or any souvenirs you want to take home. Also after packing and unpacking a few times, you will probably find things don't fit as neatly, so end up taking more space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its up to you how you much you want to carry. Carrying lots of stuff will slow you down a bit while cycling, so you won't cover as much distance. And it may affect the handling of the bike, so its not as fun to ride. On the other hand, it is nice to be comfortable while camping, and have all of the kit you might want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T10:08:41.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-20T18:30:48.393" Score="1" ViewCount="1224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding CitiBike for a couple years to ride to work in NYC (7mi commute) and am looking to purchase my own bike.  Are there any standard suggestions on what to look for in a commuter bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I love CitiBike.  I love the convenience of fenders, chain guards, easy gears that never come off, lights built in, etc.  The only thing I don't like is it is big, bulky, and heavy.  Would like something that is lighter and faster that has the convenient attributes of CitiBike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12874" LastEditorUserId="12874" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T18:58:27.400" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T20:04:39.827" Title="What bike to buy to replace CitiBike?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;citi-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-07-20T22:55:03.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23738" CreationDate="2014-07-20T18:49:11.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you like the CitiBike?  If so look for a bike like that.  A commute bike will normally have slightly larger tires - 28mm-35mm.  If you want fenders then get a bike with fenders or at least will take fenders.  If you want a rack then get a bike with rack or at least will take a rack. Many manufacturers now have lines called City/Hybrid/Mulituse/Urban (or to that effect).  Kind of need to decide if you want flat bars or drop bars - you can get commuter type bikes both ways.  In NYC a single speed might be enough.  A lot depends on what you want.  Also how well can you lock it up?  If you have to leave it out then go cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I first answered you added that you like the CitiBike.  Look around.  Fender and basket are going to be pretty easy to find.  Internal hub is not going to be as easy.  A nice internal hub is more expensive but a lot of people like them. My neighbor got a cheap internal hub and has trouble with it.  If you go the internal hub route then get a nice bike.  Hopefully you will get some specific recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T19:16:14.127" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T19:16:14.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9475" CreationDate="2014-07-20T19:29:11.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I ride with a HED Jet 4 on the front and a Jet 5 on the rear.  I ride in the Northern California Hills so climbing is a major consideration.  I was initially cautious about going so deep because I feared that I would suffer in long sustained climbs. My times climbing were not adversely affected. In fact, I achieved some personal bests in climbing probably due to the stiffness and unique lacing.  I don't know.  However, in descending and on the flats the difference is huge.   I should mention that before I had a set of Jet 4's and cracked the rear rim after 3 years. I replaced it with a Jet 5 and was faster.   Previously I had owned a pair of Bontrager XXX Race lites (an all carbon wheel set).  I loved these and rode them until I crash....After the crash I got the HED wheels and the deeper profile increased my speed and I set a lot of new personal records.  I was surprised that about my speed increase especially moving from a 1200 gram wheel set to ~ 1650 grams.  So, I concur with the previous commenter about having a slightly deeper rim in the back.  2) Deeper profile wheels make a significant difference.  3) Go as deep and light as your budget will allow! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other comments:  Cross winds are not a significant factor unless they hit you flush at 90 degrees, which happens very rarely.  The other benefit of deeper profile is that once up to speed, they hold that speed with less work which means that you save a lot of energy on long distance rides.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13062" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T19:29:11.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23763" CreationDate="2014-07-20T19:47:44.417" Score="6" ViewCount="12004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can easily find images of these different nipples on Google, and as far as I can tell pear nipples are used on road bikes (in general) and barrel nipples are used on MTBs (in general).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XT06S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Barrel Nipple&quot;&gt;&#xA;Barrel Nipple&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2gF7X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pear Nipple&quot;&gt;&#xA;Pear Nipple&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to understand more about them. Why have two designs evolved? Does one (for a given type of bike (or brake?)) offer advantages over the other? Or, is it all just &quot;marketing&quot;? Lastly, are there any other designs in common use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T20:37:21.497" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T14:27:39.277" Title="Brake Cable Ends - Barrel and Pear Nipples" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;nipples&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23738" CreationDate="2014-07-20T20:04:39.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want speed over longer distances, I recommend to buy a Trekking bike. They have 700C wheels, and therefore are faster. My experience is that for 30 min or longer commutes I like speed. For this bike a derailleur gear is better so you can speed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like comfort, you can buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/aut/2014/bikes/recreation-urban/urban/bad-boy/bad-boy-7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cannondale Badboy&lt;/a&gt; or similar. With 2&quot; wide tires that handle well the potholes. To get from A to B in a big city, lots of stopping, changing directions, I liked the comfort better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third option can be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikebuilder.brompton.com/FeaturedBikes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brompton foldable bike&lt;/a&gt;, with 6 gears, which is the most versatile in city traffic, you can mix biking and public transport, and use whichever is faster/better. They last long, so good investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are a serious commuter, ie not just when the sun is shining, and you ride in the rain, you need fenders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rack is a must for carryng your bag. On such a ride I wouldn't wear a backpack. Check that the bike has braze-ons/eyelets for fenders, and for the rack. I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tubus.com/product.php?xn=64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tubus Cargo Evo&lt;/a&gt;. For the bag, I like the convertible ones, that can be hang on the rack, and used as a messengar/backpack, too. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vaude.com/en-NL/VAUDE/Media/Product-Highlights/Summer-2014/VAUDE-City-Bike-Bags/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VauDe&lt;/a&gt; has such nice bags.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, I recommend to buy a bike that looks very &quot;average&quot;. V-brakes, rigid forks, etc. nothing that tells it's an expensive bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A hubgear gives more flexibility, to change gears at red lights when standing. 7-8 gears are enough, unless you need to tackle hills like in San Francisco, so a Shimano Nexus 7 or 8. I also commute 20 miles with a hubgear bike, for me it works, but many find it not enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T20:04:39.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23741" CreationDate="2014-07-20T20:11:53.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I have been able to tell, there is no difference in terms of functionality or practicality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With many bicycle components, different manufacturers create their own standards purely to ensnare customers. All of the vintage brake levers I have seen use pear nipples, so I assume the barrel nipple came later, but I have no idea which manufacturer first designed a barrel-style lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I just find it an unnecessary annoyance... you can't really say one is used for road bikes and the other for MTBs... the bar end levers on my road bikes take &quot;MTB&quot;-style barrel nipples. Plus I have an older MTB with V-brakes that's fitted with crosstop levers - those take pear nipples. It's just a chore having to double-check before you go and buy new cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both kinds are trivial to install, and work just as well as each other once on the bike. Although one style may be more prone to mechanical failure than the other, I am sure that the points of failure for both are far beyond the serviceable life of the cable (i.e. it will have stretched, frayed, and rusted considerably by the time the nipple breaks off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thankfully I've never seen a third kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T20:22:37.460" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T20:22:37.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23741" CreationDate="2014-07-20T20:28:28.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the design of components that determine which cable end is used. For somethings change comes slowly. My guess is that at some point in time someone wanted a lighter more compact cable end and designed what is currently called a  road style end. That has become the standard. It would most likely work on a mountain lever that was designed to accept that style end. To my knowledge no one makes them. It is similar to the presta , Schrader issue. Presta valves were designed to allow rims that were thinner than was possible with a larger Schrader valve. While some mountain bikes are equipped with Presta  valves but  most  mountain bikes still come with Schrader valves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T20:28:28.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23759" CreationDate="2014-07-20T23:31:07.100" Score="4" ViewCount="4834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a new hydraulic disc brake for my old mountain bike, which already has a disc brake. As I am very far away from any bicycle shop I want to buy the parts on the internet. The shipping costs will be high, so I don’t want to send anything back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;strong&gt;different standards to mount the brakes to the bike.&lt;/strong&gt; Post mount and IS2000, and I have heard that post mount has &lt;strong&gt;different sizes/types,&lt;/strong&gt; e.g. post mount 6 and 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now what I want to know:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do I have to check or measure to be sure, that the new brake fits my bicycle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which adapters do I need (depending on the size of the discs and the type of fixation of the calipers)? Especially, when the new brake has a different disc size than the former one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which screws? Are they standardized and fit on all bikes and brakes independent of bike and brake manufacturer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know this in general, because I also want to replace the brakes of a friend’s bike with hydraulic disc brakes too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7790" LastEditorUserId="7790" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T10:08:36.340" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T10:08:36.340" Title="What do I have to know, to replace my hydraulic disc brakes with new ones?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23330" CreationDate="2014-07-20T23:38:55.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I contacted FSA and was told no tool exists for pressing/removing the 19mm BB. So I proceeded with the cave man approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a long 3/8&quot; extension (female side against the BB bearing) and hammer to knock out the left side, it came out easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right side was a challenge with the same setup (it would not budge) , I ended up punching the bearing out of the BB shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the rest of the shell out with a 22mm deep socket and a short 1/2&quot; extension and the same hammer technique. I would advise using a large socket that fits as soon as you get one side of the BB out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearings/bb does not appear to be damaged and could be reused. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T23:38:55.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-20T23:39:39.153" Score="4" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally swap out a the tube on the trail if I get a flat and then patch at home. So that leaves me with a patched tube &lt;em&gt;ready&lt;/em&gt; to put in a tire and I'd like to test it without having to swap out a tube ('cause I'm lazy :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that perhaps I could just inflate it but I'm concerned that without the opposing pressure of the tire it might blow an otherwise solid patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:50:40.127" Title="How can I tell if I have properly patched a tube? (specifically a 2&quot; mt. bike tube)" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-20T23:55:41.343" Score="11" ViewCount="3414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently installed a power meter and just used it to get up some rather steep 15%+ climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At my weight and lowest gearing (34f 30r) at a sustainable power level for my fitness (225w) this translated to a seated &lt;strong&gt;35-40rpm cadence.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher cadence would result in heart rates of 190bpm+ which I couldn't sustain over the climb without stopping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is MUCH lower than what I usually spin at (95-100) and while I made it up the hills, &lt;strong&gt;I am concerned that this could cause damage to my knees/body&lt;/strong&gt; if I continue to do this without losing weight or increasing power. (Working on this :) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched, but there doesn't seem to be much on this topic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A triple is not an option as I am doing this for fitness/fun and in the long run the compact I just upgraded to (50/34 from 46/36) will be enough once I get more KM into my legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These climbs were 1-2km in length with up to 130m elevation gain (Cat 4), but the question is more about doing this for extended amounts IE (Cat 1 / HC)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standing for that long of a climb is not achievable for me at the current fitness level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't feel any discomfort in my knees, but everything I have read suggests high cadence cycling but I am not there fitness wise yet on these climbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastEditorUserId="10723" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T12:41:01.933" LastActivityDate="2019-07-10T13:49:04.077" Title="What's the lowest safe cadence on a climb?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23747" CreationDate="2014-07-21T00:22:33.750" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do like you do when riding, and I usually save up my tubes with holes and patch a bunch of them all at once. That way I can use a tub of water to both find the holes, and can go back through them after patching and test to see if they are holding air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have any doubt after patching a tube, I give it a little time to cure and then I pump it up and hang it from a hook in my garage overnight to see if it loses air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T00:22:33.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23747" CreationDate="2014-07-21T00:22:38.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the right idea. Inflate the tube to roughly the side it is in the tyre, which will be a much lower pressure than it would be if it was in a tyre. My floor pump doesn't register the pressure of a tube pumped up like this, so I expect it's less than 10psi/1 bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T00:22:38.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23751" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-21T00:58:35.777" Score="7" ViewCount="44767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new bike (my first brand new one ever) a few months ago and a while ago I decided to give it a wash and after that my front hydraulic brake hasn't been working as strong as it used too. I used to be able to lock it up on gravel with two fingers, now I can't get them to lock up at all even with all my strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is my bike) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/au/en/bikes/mountain/sport/3_series/3900_disc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trekbikes.com/au/en/bikes/mountain/sport/3_series/3900_disc/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13063" LastEditorUserId="3631" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T12:36:51.687" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T22:25:10.687" Title="How do I get my hydraulic disc brakes working well again" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23751" CreationDate="2014-07-21T01:21:16.390" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely cause if the disc and pads are contaminated. What did you wash it with? Many cleaners leave a residue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case the pads need replacing. The discs should be well cleaned before installing new pads - Use a solvent such as brake cleaner, methylated spirits or Isoprop alcohol, and rub the discs to be certain no contamination is left on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best case is a good clean of the discs solves the problem. If this does not work, remove the pads and clean with cleaner and re install and clean disk again. If this does not work there are tricks with pads such as burning, sanding etc that might help - I won't cover how to do it here as its well covered elsewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How far you go trying to restore contaminated pads is more a matter of how much time and effort is needed vs cost. Eventually (and quite early for me) patience runs out and as new pads are the guaranteed fix, its down to the LBS I go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T01:21:16.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23748" CreationDate="2014-07-21T02:04:31.470" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikers regularly run these low cadences for very short periods, often at much higher power output. The issue with causing damage to knees is more about the duration of the climb and how strong your stabiliser muscles are. (Too much time mushing causes chronic overuse problems, while weak stabiliser muscles can allow injury to happen), however they also have much lower gearing for sustained steep climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is one or two short (2-5 minute) pushes over a longer ride, I would not worry about it, but be very careful about technique. If it's a couple of 15 minute periods over an hour long ride, I would be starting to look at options before problems start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options to consider would be changing the route or going to lower gearing – If this is a regular route, putting a triple on the front (with a 24), would get your cadence up to about 50-60, which is ideal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these are not an option, getting off and walking is not a bad thing. Don't let you ego get in the way of doing the sensible thing. You're already down to about 5-6km/h, walking won't be much slower, and as it uses different muscles than riding you are resting you riding muscles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be aware that if you are lowering cadence preserve aerobic endurance, you are putting less force on your knees than if you increased cadence - so without changing the bike set-up you cannot fix the problem. The mantra of high cadence presumes you can go down to a lower gear and hence reduce the force on you knees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T03:26:28.303" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T03:26:28.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23748" CreationDate="2014-07-21T04:36:45.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your options to reduce the force on your knees are to reduce bike + rider weight or get lower gearing. If you have a standard road bike cassette, there are climbing cassettes that will reduce the gearing slightly (around 10% or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it dangerous to your knees? Well, that depends on your personal physiology, how much force you are pushing, how much to you have trained for this, and how well your bike fits you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can do this without your knees hurting, you are probably fine. You might also consider standing up; this changes the mechanics a bit and mixes things up. When you stand up, make sure you slow down or you will spike your heart rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the steeps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T04:36:45.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23736" CreationDate="2014-07-21T04:37:07.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is another take on &quot;bulk&quot;. At the time I completed the tour this photo was taken on I was using a home made quilt as my sleeping &quot;bag&quot;.  The quilt is the item in the blue/gray Sea to Summit dry bag sitting on top of the Extrawheel Voyager trailer.  Now the quilt is not that heavy but it is clearly quite bulky taking up a lot of space, so much space that I didn't carry it in my panniers as it would take up way to much room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mCYXc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bulky home made quilt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since replaced that home made quilt with a Mont Bell Ultralight Super Spiral Down Hugger #3 which weighs 686 grams and takes up considerably less space, so much less in fact that it nows lives in one of my rear panniers when touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastEditorUserId="12823" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T08:57:49.033" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T08:57:49.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23691" CreationDate="2014-07-21T08:43:22.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to put tube lower enough and check how it sounds in that position. If any sounds don't appear then just replace with new longer tube. It saves your frame. &#xA;Or it might be sand or dirt cause noise. So try to clean up tube and frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13065" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T08:43:22.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23745" CreationDate="2014-07-21T11:38:24.703" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;(within reason) Any disc brake will fit on any bike with the right adaptors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adapter you need will be based on the size of the rotor (disc) you want to run, the mounts you have on the bike (IS/post) and the brake you're trying to fit. Most callipers will have post mount fittings so require a adapter to fit to any IS mounts. Most frames still have IS mounts on the rear, while most newer forks have post mounts. They can be identified through how they are orientated, post mounts go into the fork or frame, IS mounts are orientated the same as the bikes axles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When purchasing brakes Shimano callipers come separate of rotor and mounting adapter, Avid comes pre-packaged with everything so you simply buy the size you require. Smaller brands vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be aware that the size of rotor makes a difference and some forks/frames are only rated up to a certain rotor size; any larger could cause the parts to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two different standards for fixing the rotor to the hub - standard 6-bolt and shimano centrelock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolts are standard thread (for all examples I've seen) but the length will vary for post mount brakes. You need to ensure that you use the correct length screws for post mounts. Short bolts can (some say will) lead to catastrophic failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other point to bear in mind is that the hydraulic hose length for the rear brake may have significant extra length (c.300mm) and requires a moderate level of technical skill to shorten. The rest of the install can be done by hex wrench and T25 driver/wrench. A torque wrench is recommended but not mandatory. Other considerations will be cable routing, securing the hose and whether the brake mounts need facing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastEditorUserId="6726" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T07:21:51.017" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T07:21:51.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-21T11:42:14.133" Score="4" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was adjusting rear brakes last night and this little thing snapped in half (see image [right]). The linear indent holds my brake cable in place and a 5mm bolt holds this in place. I guess I need to find a replacement but I have no idea where to start. Does anyone know what this might be called? Can I stillfind something like this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike: Old Dawes Horizon (1990's maybe?) &#xA;Braking system: Centre pull cantilever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HVQeD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left. Full part taken from front (working) brakes. Right: Snapped part taken from rear brakes.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13068" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T07:17:08.370" Title="Mystery item broken on old Dawes. Help!" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12837" CreationDate="2014-07-21T13:05:56.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the head angle is steeper, the bike becomes more nimble and twitchy. The bike reacts faster to steering input making it prone to oversteer. Road bikes tend to have &quot;steep&quot; head angles in the 72 to 74 degree range. A half degree is more noticeable on bikes with steeper head angles, especially at higher speeds. However, if you're a casual rider than a half-degree probably won't make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the head angle is shallower/ slack, the bike becomes smoother and more stable, but prone to understeer. Insofar making half-degree increments almost indiscernible. These angles are commonly associated with mountain bikes and beach cruisers. Slacker angles are sometimes associated with longer wheel bases as well; Boutique bike manufacturers commonly offer 'chopper' style bikes with long wheel bases and super slack head angles. This makes the bike fun to cruise but it's not very nimble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes tend to have a wider range of head angles available depending on the type of riding you're interested in. XC (Cross Country) tend to be steeper, measuring in the 70 to 71.5 range, and on the other end are DH (Downhill) bikes raking back as much as 64 degrees on popular models. In between those model types are Trail and AM (All Mountain) bikes that have respective head angles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to understand is that bikes with rear suspensions have a noticeable affect on the head angle when the rear suspension activates. When the rear suspension squashes, the head angle slackens. It gives the rider more stability while also increasing ride comfort, which is why full-suspension bikes are so popular. There are other benefits but that's another topic :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13069" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T13:05:56.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23747" CreationDate="2014-07-21T13:26:31.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is that you can't fully test a patch until you take it up to full pressure.  I had a patch that was fine for months at low pressure on the bike. I took the 2.10 up to full pressure to ride on the road and the patch failed.   Even if you put it on the bike to test the problem is getting the fresh tube you used back in the seat bag.   I only use patched tubes for repair at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T13:26:31.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23741" CreationDate="2014-07-21T14:27:39.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Original MTB brake lever designs did not include a rotating barrel inside the lever&#xA;to account for the change in angle as you apply the brake, so the wire end needed to be round to accommodate this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bike brakes have had the interior rotating barrel for a very long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wire end does not rotate, the brake wire will be flexed in a &quot;coat hanger&quot; &#xA;way and break in a relatively short time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are two different solutions to the same engineering problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T14:27:39.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23748" CreationDate="2014-07-21T15:09:51.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Understand that the concern is not generally things like a muscle or tendon tear that can occur with, eg, extreme weightlifting -- off-road bikers might be susceptible to that sort of injury, but not a road biker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather, the concern is the injury that may be done to joint surfaces and structures due to repeated force, above some &quot;tolerable&quot; level, applied to the joint.  This can result in joint inflammation, tendinitis, and in some cases, a form of arthritis (with resulting permanent joint damage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, unlike the torn tendon, this sort of &quot;repetitive strain injury&quot; may not be apparent until some time (days/weeks/months) after the injury has begun in earnest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your &quot;enhanced&quot; description of the situation, you are likely on the cusp of a problem.  Depending on your genetic makeup and physical condition you might be safe or might be in danger territory.  At the very least it would be wise to tread carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'll add that one is most exposed to joint injury when the knee is tightly bent, vs when it is straighter.  This is one reason why the seat should be as high as reasonably possible, and one should avoid riding a seriously undersized bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T12:32:15.383" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T12:32:15.383" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12837" CreationDate="2014-07-21T15:11:50.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Head tube angle is one of 3 factors that together determine bicycle tendency to stay in the same direction. The other two are wheel size and fork rake, and with head tube angle they give value named &lt;strong&gt;trail&lt;/strong&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles with larger trail tend to be stable and hold direction, while bicycles with smaller trail react faster and with smaller input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the wheel size and same fork rake, smaller head tube angle will give larger trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While most of the bicycles with smaller head tube angels tend to have matching forks such that they have larger trail, true answer can be found only by inspecting all elements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or even better by trying out the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T15:11:50.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23747" CreationDate="2014-07-21T15:19:08.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should inflate the tube to 1.5 to 2 times the &quot;normal&quot; diameter, in order to develop a modicum of pressure.  (Wait until after the patch has &quot;cured&quot; overnight to do this, however.)  Then either test in a tub/sink or let it sit overnight again to see if it loses air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Getting the tube to fold up nicely is not a problem, if it's a Presta.  Just squeegee out all the air, close the valve, then lay it flat and fold it up.  Schrader is harder -- best is to remove the valve core temporarily while getting the air out.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T15:19:08.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23779" CreationDate="2014-07-21T15:36:13.753" Score="0" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10586/what-do-i-need-to-research-to-switch-to-an-internally-geared-hub&quot;&gt;What do I need to research to switch to an internally geared hub?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having looked at the above Q and A, I have a followup question.  I have a Globe Work 2, that I'm considering converting to an IGH.  Will I need to replace the rear wheel?  I ask because Globe makes a Work 3 with an IGH and as far as I can tell, the bikes are otherwise identical.  Does this indicate that the wheel will take an IGH without modification or am I just being hopeful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really just curious because I'm considering doing this myself, but I don't want to get in over my head, so I'm trying to figure out how much work this is going to be before I decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11091" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T23:57:21.950" Title="Specific Conversion to IGH" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12947" CreationDate="2014-07-21T15:46:59.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have now had a road bike for 3 days since i transferred from mountain biker to road biker. I've done just over 50 miles and my experiences so far would be both bikes have pros and cons. The mountain bike is a LOT slower. The width of the tyres being thicker means more surface contact with the road and it slows you down and requires way more effort to ride especially uphill. The road bike i have, has thin tyres and the speed difference is amazing. The only drawback i have found is that without a suspension, you really feel every tiny bump/divot in the road and on long rides this can become very uncomfortable in your back/lower body/arms.The mountain bike protects you much more. Your body position too needs getting used to. Leaning forward rather than sitting up straight is a bit weird but again, i'll get used to that. Overall though i'll be sticking to the road bike, you'll love the speed difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13070" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T15:46:59.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23748" CreationDate="2014-07-21T16:19:03.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low cadences are generally putting a lot more strain on the knees, as you're relying on power, given the gear ratios I suspect another issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would work on your fitness on flatter terrain and build up to hills.  Start within your cardio range and stay in it, do this regularly 3-4 times per week if possible.  The problem stems from fitness/strength which hasn't accumulated enough for the hills.  Your cadence sounds good otherwise.  Your heart is more important than your knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optimally the value of around 60-70 rpm to be on the cardio rather than anaerobic side of your workout.  Anaerobic will mean you tire quicker and can't maintain sustained effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With knees equally as important are good bike sizing and proper setup.  The setup is incredibly important, ensuring saddle height, saddle fore/aft position and bar height are optimal for your physiology, reducing strain, improving comfort and efficiency.   Further more make sure your cleats and shoes are suitable, different brands suit different physiologies better.   I had a pro fit which remedied a lot of ongoing knee pain, far cheaper than physio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/technique-how-to-pedal-like-a-pro-12772/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/technique-how-to-pedal-like-a-pro-12772/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13071" LastEditorUserId="13071" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T16:27:11.843" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T16:27:11.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23748" CreationDate="2014-07-21T16:53:29.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding &quot;could cause damage to my knees/body if I continue to do this without losing weight or increasing power&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a given grade and a given gear (34f 30r) increasing power will not reduce the stress on your knee.  To go faster (higher cadence - more power) in gear X and hill Y you need to push harder.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that is going to reduce pedal force is less weight or a lower gear.  Same answer as Eric (+1+). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;34f 30r is a fairly low gear.  Your muscles may be out of shape but your knee is not out of shape.  If you don't have knee problems you should be OK.  Unless you are carrying a lot of extra weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go ahead and continue to train with 34f 30r and if you get knee pain then you are going to need to go with a smaller gear or a smaller hill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T17:42:12.457" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T17:42:12.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10517" CreationDate="2014-07-21T17:57:25.177" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chamois is a crutch for an ill fitting saddle and bike set up. Chamois are &quot;gaskets&quot;. They hold moisture, bunch up, grip soft skin, causing friction that heats and causes burns, etc. They get worse with slight aging. If the saddle is the right shape for your groin, there should be no &quot;gasket&quot; introduced to the groin. My personal preference is a leather saddle (I use the B17 Brooks) that &quot;gives&quot;, breathes, wicks away moisture and stays cool. I use a chamois-less Lycra short that ventilates immediately. With over 50 years of riding several thousand miles per year, This is what works for me. I have a garage full of saddles, many that I've modified. Cheap, ludicrously expensive, you name it. My next to best favorite (BTW) is the Selle Italia SLR superflow 130mm. Big cut-out, very thin padding, flat front to back, and narrow. Again, I use no chamois. 100 mile rides are easy. Once I wear out the Selle as a &quot;now and then saddle&quot;, I'll just swap the B-17 around on the bike of choice for the day. It won't wear out in my lifetime. My original was built in the mid 70's and the replacement was built in 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13072" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T17:57:25.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23777" CreationDate="2014-07-21T18:55:07.043" Score="11" ViewCount="20090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like this is one of those obvious questions, but I have been unsuccessful at finding an answer (even in the manual for the rack!).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a bike rack (only holds 2 bikes) for my Subaru hatchback. I have found that I can mount the rack such that it doesn't press against the glass of the back windshield, but mounting it so low requires that I remove the front wheel of my bike (at least to make me comfortable, it probably would be fine).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I instead mount it so that the rack presses against the back windshield?  Is this likely or possible to break the back windshield?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that my back windshield is not cracked, though the car is 10+ years old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The bike rack, which is a Thule Thruway Pro 2, uses two foam-padded bars as the main contact points between the rack and the car.  I figure that this question is probably valid for any bike rack with padded bars as the contact points, not just Thule bike racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13075" LastEditorUserId="13075" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T19:20:32.467" LastActivityDate="2017-09-15T00:58:21.383" Title="Is it ok for the trunk bike rack to rest against the glass of a hatchback?" Tags="&lt;car-rack&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23751" CreationDate="2014-07-21T19:21:03.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your link, your bike has Tekro HDC Hydraulic brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do a google search, there is a video (made by Tekro by the looks of things) which talks about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFXEieKKtGo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to replace pads&lt;/a&gt; on these brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you watch this video. If you understand it, and feel comfortable doing what it suggests, take the pads out and examine them. Don't buy any replacements just yet - fingers crossed, simply taking the pads out and putting them back in might solve your problem. Also read up on the pistons, try to get an idea how they actually cause the brake to work, and satisfy yourself that all is well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not comfortable with any or all of this, take the bike to your local shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first encounter with hydraulic brakes, I ummed and erred for ages because it was something new to me, when I finally found the courage it was quite a straightforward job - I did it in front of the laptop watching one of these vids, pausing it frequently so as lot to let them get too far ahead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T19:21:03.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23773" CreationDate="2014-07-21T19:28:30.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This instruction shows it on a window.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/orsracksdirect/thule-968-969-thruway-bike-rack-installation-instructions-pdf.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;THRUWAY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And I would not assume that any rack with padded bars contact points mounts the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T19:55:26.790" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T19:55:26.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13439" CreationDate="2014-07-21T19:41:44.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One trick I have used in a pinch when my stem was too short for the rim depth (as your picture is showing) is to place my thumb against the tire at the point of the stem and carefully press in until the stem is being held out of the rim. This can give the leverage needed to attach the pump head to the short stem length. While the stem extender solution is a good one, your rims are not the super deep rims that require such a long stem that are not readily available. Go for a nice long stemmed tube and your particular issue should be solved. Also, I had trouble with unthreaded presta stems causing the pump head to slip off before the tire was fully inflated. I purchased a new pump head, and now it is difficult to remove the pump head on threaded stems, but the pump stays attached to the stem all the way to 120+ pounds on the unthreaded stems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13076" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T19:41:44.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23773" CreationDate="2014-07-21T20:53:21.673" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being both a hatchback owner and a trunk rack owner, I can tell you yes...and no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saris.com/product/bones3&quot;&gt;Saris Bones 3&lt;/a&gt; rack and the feet have etched the window slightly. While the feet are of a more rubbery plastic, I think it's when there's dirt and grit underneath and moves (even unnoticeable movement) it grinds at the window. It usually cleans up pretty well, but I can tell where the feet marks are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend putting a sock or other cloth over the feet (the body ones wouldn't hurt either). Also, make sure the contact point is clean, which means lossening or removing the rack to clean behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I've never had an issue with the rack slipping or moving, but most of the weight (even on your type of rack) will be going to the lower feet or bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T20:53:21.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23778" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-21T21:12:20.187" Score="0" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently had a failure in my rear-hub during a brevet. The bike I use for brevets was assembled from used parts, and I tried to choose components that are dedicated to randonneuring (super-reliable, not too heavy, low maintenance and, if possible, not super expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At front, I am already using a Schmidt SON generator, being very satisfied. I bought it because almost EVERY text about randonneuring over the internet mentions it, and it has been a very good choice so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hub I was using at the rear is an American Classic, and it had the rather typical failure of &quot;not engaging anymore&quot; because of its hair-shaped spring not activating the engagement plate. That has happened to some acquaintances before, and I thought it wouldn't happen to me (wrong!) during an event (WRONG!). So it's light and fast but I cannot think it's reliable anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not plan to use internally geared hubs, but these seem to be the only hyped rear hubs around. There are hyped fenders, tires, racks, bags, saddles... But no rear hubs that I know. Even less only the rear hub (I am not interested in buying a pair, or nagging some shop owner to sell me just the rear one from a pair).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any famous model of rear hub indicated specifically for randonneuring or fast touring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: 130mm axles are a possibility, since my bicicle has this spacing, and I actually opened the frame a bit to use the former American Classic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T21:24:59.017" Title="Rear hub for randonneuring - any &quot;classic&quot; model?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;randonneuring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23767" CreationDate="2014-07-21T21:30:47.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The switch to an IGH is never as simple as it looks. There are a couple of things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheel: Yes you will need to have a new wheel built replacing the hub with a IGH hub. You can reuse the rim (if spoke count matches) but will also require new spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dropouts: The Globe Works 3 has a semi horizontal rear dropout while the Globe Works 2 has a vertical dropout and hanger. Derailleur bikes rely on the RD to tension the chain, IGH relies on placement of the rear hub in relation to the crank, this is where horizontal dropouts work well as you can slide the wheel to the right place. Without these you need a separate chain tensioning device. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain Tensioner: Without horizontal dropouts you need to find a way to ensure chain tension. The most simplest and effective is an eccentric bottom bracket which allows the crank to be reposition slightly to achieve chain tension. Other devices hang in place of the derailleur but add moving and noisy parts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crankset: IGH work with a single crankset and fixed chainline. You would need to modify your current crankset to a single ring (if possible), keep the multiple rings only using one or buy a new crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shifters: IGH use different shifters to derailleurs so you will need to also purchase new shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T23:57:21.950" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T23:57:21.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-21T22:00:32.127" Score="2" ViewCount="14083" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Schwinn bike with the following codes on the tire. AKR6483 / 40-622 / 700x38c. I have gone to numerous websites to possibly order a solid rubber tire for my bike so I will never have to by a replacement tire or repair a flat due to puncture. Can you tell me which solid rubber tire would be acceptable for this bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ron&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13078" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T06:00:40.420" Title="Solid rubber bicycle tires" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2014-07-22T13:14:25.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23747" CreationDate="2014-07-21T22:38:30.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A properly applied patch should resist inflating the tube up to 1.5-2 times the nominal diameter. This is useful for testing the quality of the patching work but also to find the tiniest holes that sometimes are harder to spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other say, the definitive way to test is to inflate and submerge in water or to inflate and let overnight to see if it holds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However: I you get these tiny punctures and specially if they develop on the inner side of the tube (or &quot;high&quot; on the face sides), then the problem may be a faulty or degraded tube. Tubes may suffer from chemical reactions which makes them prone to develop spontaneous pores. When such moment arrives it is best to buy a new tube (one that has not been in the shelves for too long).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other ways to spot a chemically damaged or degraded tube is that when inflating them outside the tire, they have irregular shape (thicker in one parts than other) or the valve spins towards the outside. Other may show cracked or rough spots (or other odd texture). Another symptom may be the tube looks &quot;too black&quot; (a normal tube is actually dark gray) and they feel sticky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:50:40.127" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:50:40.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23734" CreationDate="2014-07-22T00:01:36.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know anything about bottom brackets, but I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bbinstitute.com/dl/dx_demo_chapter_10.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt; which says (on page 16):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano cartidge-bearing bottom-bracket spindles are marked with letter codes that correspond to different length spindles. These codes and the corresponding spindle lengths are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Code Length&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MM 107mm and 110.5mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LL 113mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D-H 115mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YL 116mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XL 118mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ZL 121mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NL 122.5mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EL 127.5mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3710" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T00:01:36.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23780" CreationDate="2014-07-22T01:04:04.707" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the comments have comprehensively pointed out, solid tyres have some significant problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently fitted a solid tyre from Tannus on my bike with the same goals as yours. I only managed to last a few weeks before I couldn't deal with the problems and refitted my standard tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pros&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No flat tyres!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cons&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rough ride - the ride quality was awful. Jarring and rattling constantly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor grip - The tyre didn't have anywhere near the grip of a good standard tyre. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhat loose attachment to the rim - there was a sensation of the tyre 'rolling' off the rim. It didn't ever roll right off and I don't think it would, but there was noticeable give where the tyre attached to the rim leading to this instability when cornering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat spotting - I locked up the wheel to avoid a car in the first 10 minutes of fitting the tyre and it created a significant flat spot. I actually had to feather the flat spot with sandpaper because there was a very noticable 'bump' with every revolution of the wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to give them a try, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tannus.com.au/products/thoroki/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this tyre from tannus&lt;/a&gt; would fit your bike. The item code WMI702H or WMI702S would both fit, but be a bit narrower than your existing tyre (32 rather than 38).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T06:00:40.420" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T06:00:40.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23780" CreationDate="2014-07-22T02:09:35.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zero maintenance is just not going to happen.  A bicycle has a many moving parts.  Chains, gears, and bearings.  Go for a puncture resistant tire.  An example is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/Marathon_Plus_HS440&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Marathon Plus&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T02:09:35.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23691" CreationDate="2014-07-22T06:47:29.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often, dirt gets between the seat post and seat tube. Remove the seat post. Clean the post. Clean inside the seat tube. Grease the post and re-install. Hopefully the noise will be gone. You say the post is close to the max mark. For a little added safety, longer seat posts are available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T06:47:29.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23778" CreationDate="2014-07-22T09:56:14.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;super-reliable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not too heavy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;low maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not super expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any Shimano XT hub M76X - M77X. Also confider the newer T7XX &quot;touring XT&quot; models.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano hubs are exclusively (afaik) loose-bearing rather than cartridge hubs, so they're easily serviceable and the balls are available almost everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The XT range should also have decent seals, durable materials and not be too heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XT hubs don't get hyped because &lt;em&gt;everyone already knows about them&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T09:56:14.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23691" CreationDate="2014-07-22T11:33:12.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most probably, the seatpost just needs to be cleaned (dust gets in) AND/OR tightened a little bit. Don't overdo it, it's best to stay within the 5-6 Nm range so as not to bust your seatpost ring or seat tube. Greasing the seatpost might also help. I wouldn't recommend any actual grease for this (messy, tends to get the seatpost stuck after a year of riding), powdered graphite is more appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13086" LastEditorUserId="11045" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T20:40:33.493" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T20:40:33.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23778" CreationDate="2014-07-22T11:46:16.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I randonneur extensively (on a touringy Kona Jake with a saddlebag) and have found Novatec hubs with sealed industrial bearing to be very cost effective, offering tens of thousands of kilometers with virtually no maintenance and no degradation of performance to speak of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13086" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T11:46:16.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-22T15:28:12.687" Score="2" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somewhat general question. Could someone give me an idea of how much of a 'technology gap' there is between annual models of high-end road bikes (~$2000)? Specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which components generally see the biggest improvement each year?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In what sense is carbon fibre technology improving? What does this mean for your average non-pro (but enthusiastic) rider?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sort of guestimation of when we can expect to see electrical gears on high-level road bikes as standard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do like models necessarily improve every year?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13087" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T19:35:46.753" Title="Annual technology gap of high end road bikes" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-07-23T12:44:52.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23790" CreationDate="2014-07-22T16:51:42.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty broad but it has not been shut down &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Components&lt;br&gt;&#xA;High end road bikes are marketed to racers. UCI and other racing organizations have rules on what can and cannot be on a bike.  Biggest changes will come from rule changes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;UCI allows electronic gears.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There is currently a minimum weight for road races and pro level bikes get under this limit so there is not much incentive to reduce the weight.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Currently disc brakes are not allowed in UCI road races.  You still find some road bikes with disc (e.g. the Specialized Roubaix has some models with disc, Salsa Colossal 2, and the Colnago CX Zero Disc).  UCI does currently allow disc brakes on cyclocoss and that is why you find them more standard on clyclocross.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you look at the few road bikes not marketed to race you will find more incremental changes year to year.  I am surprised there are not more road bikes that are designed for the non-racer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cabon fiber&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Carbon fiber has not changed much.  They are getting better at forming it.  For the average rider it is a lighter bike with a nice ride.  Some people would say a more fragile bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electric gears standard&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When the price comes down to make it economical on a $2000 bike.  Given the electric gears alone are in the $2000 range it is not going to be standard on a $2000 bike any time soon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do models improve each year&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Come on, clearly there are years in which nothing changes on some models but the color.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T19:35:46.753" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T19:35:46.753" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-22T19:45:16.043" Score="1" ViewCount="2427" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Sirrus Specialized road bike with flat/straight handlebars and a Carrera TDF 2014 edition. As much as I like it, I must say that I prefer the Siruss' frame. It's light and aero. I want to swap my Carreras handlebars and the STI levers onto my Siruss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the STI levers on my Carreras compatible with the V-brakes on my Siruss? Are there any problems that I need to think about before I do the swap? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T23:57:42.817" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T18:25:02.920" Title="Hybrid bike change to road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23790" CreationDate="2014-07-22T20:08:55.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not disagreeing with the first answer above I think there are a few more complexities that haven't been addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changes in bike technology are not linear but rather generational. Component improvements don't happen each year but rather every 3-4 years. Aside from pro and sponsored riders most riders would not see any value in replacing a bike for the next years model and the industry recognises this. Better to sell a new frame together with other new tech as it's released so people actually are getting something new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Di2 was first used in the Tour in 2009 and it became commercially available in the same year. In 2011 it was released on Ultegra, which marked the first trickle down. In the last 3 years it has still not been released on 105. Until they are released in 105 it won't be available on mid range bikes and they will sit in the $2,000-$3,000 price range. That change should be due in the next year or two, unless for other commercial reasons Shimano sweat the Ultegra Di2 line and the new 11 speed 105 line for a few more years. 1 year after releasing 11 speed 6800 they released the 6870 Di2 version for Ultegra. They released 105 5800 in 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that in electronic shifting they have no real competition from SRAM or Campi's EPS (as opposed to  mtb where after Shimano released shadow+ SRAM quickly followed and released type 2 and then 1x11) so will continue to milk their mid range Ultegra until they see sales of that dwindling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric gears will never be standard because there is a cost/ weight/ don't care ratio to consider. There's a point where most people won't be willing to pay (or maintain) an electric shifting system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T20:55:34.977" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T20:55:34.977" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-22T20:43:45.943" Score="2" ViewCount="2578" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I am either inexperienced or very lucky because I have never had a flat bike tire in my life. Now comes the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a basic &quot;Specialized Sirrus 2013&quot; hybrid bike which has run 2500 kilometers (over 1500 miles) in various conditions. The tires are &quot;Specialized Nimbus 700x28c&quot;. Today I accidentally noticed that the rear tire is indeed damaged:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ni5AR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire damage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea how long it has been like this or what is the cause (maybe a very sharp rock?). The cut/scrape is about 1 millimeter wide, 6-7 millimeter long and 3-4 millimeter deep (0.04x0.25x0.15 inches). It is clean of substantial debris but stays open like that when normally inflated at 115 Psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What actions should I take? The tire is not flat and I am able to ride normally but should I be concerned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13091" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T00:40:57.220" Title="Damaged (scraped) tire - what to do?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23796" CreationDate="2014-07-22T21:23:56.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not look to me like the cords are damaged, which means the tire will still have its strength to hold the air pressure of the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have three easy options. Personally I would take the last:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ignore it.&lt;/strong&gt; It will probably last until the tire has no tread left. The cut itself will bulge a little, so this will be the point of failure of the tire. The bump may cause the tire to make noise of vibration as you ride- If you notice this the tire has little life left, or may quietly wear down till with the rest of the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Put a sleeve in.&lt;/strong&gt; Get a piece of tough material like canvas (the side wall of an old MTB tire is great), insert it under the cut. This will provide a stronger area around the cut and prevent the weakness causing further problems and extend the life a little more as it will reduce the size of the bulge caused by the cut. Its a technique used as a temporary repair for tires to get you home, and works for tires with significant cuts (I have seen it used successfully on a MTB ride for a tire with a 2-3cm full thickness cut.)  As we all know, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix that works. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replace the tire.&lt;/strong&gt; A shredded tire on the road is really a pain. Unlike a puncture, which is generally repairable, the only fix is a new tire - do you carry a spare tire? Although I always carry a tube and repair kit, I only carry a spare tire for very long rides (and usually just one in our group will carry a spare). If I have a spare tire in good nick, why would I leave a dodgy tire on the bike? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T13:28:34.167" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T13:28:34.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23796" CreationDate="2014-07-22T21:24:31.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to be too worried about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my own preference in the past, if the tire plies are not exposed, tires with mere surface damages can still last a very long time. Rubber is sturdier than what most people think. I ride a CX on MTB trails and get tires scuffed all the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially if you are not doing anything intense (I assume because you ride a hybrid), this should not be a serious safety issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13093" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T12:38:33.640" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T12:38:33.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23778" CreationDate="2014-07-22T21:24:59.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're not typically carrying heavy loads while randonneuring, any quality, road hub should work. I think an MTB hub is overkill. I've used American Classic hubs for MTB race wheels, but I probably would not choose American Classic for randonneuring. I have thousands of brevet and randonnee miles on Shimano Ultegra, Cycle Ops Power Tap, and Schmidt SON hubs, and have yet to have a problem.  You didn't mention if you're planning to build the hub into the old rim, or get a new wheel, of what type of drivetrain you have. Those factors might also influence your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T21:24:59.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23790" CreationDate="2014-07-22T22:08:08.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like @DWGKNZ's answer, especially where he's saying about things tending to move forward in big bangs, rather than some gradual linear progression. You will of course find small-scale enhancements year-on-year, but these would not be big enough to convince you to get a new bike, say. I just wanted to add something about hydraulic brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But also I'd say your description of a $2000 bike as &quot;high-end&quot; is not quite there. My definition of high-end would be more like $10-15k or so. Or, putting money to one side, I'd define &quot;high-end&quot; simply as the bikes the teams use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Innovations, without doubt, will appear on higher-end bikes first. You'll have already read that the last big bang, electronic shifting, appeared in the Tour de France in 2009. But you still won't find electronic shifting on most road bikes. This is simply because it hasn't been made cheap enough yet. So if you really are looking at a $2k bike, you're still waiting for this development to trickle down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody has mentioned brakes yet, but hydraulic brakes will be the next big bang for road bikes. A very few road bikes have this right now, but once the UCI approve them for competition use (apparently pretty imminent), the floodgates will open. And hydraulic brakes will trickle down more quickly that electronic shifting, simply because the technical issues with hydraulics have already been cracked in the mtb world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you can judge for yourself how much of a technical advancement electronic shifting or hydraulic brakes will be to you. But certainly the marketing people need to use things like this to try to convince us all that the bike we bought two or three years ago is actually no good, and we need to shell out once again. There is a lot of this hype goes on in the cycling world - at the most cynical it's change for change's sake - and I think recognising the things worth shelling out for becomes a judgement call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T22:38:28.550" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T22:38:28.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21802" CreationDate="2014-07-22T22:30:53.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cheap source of touch up paint, especially for the more garish colors is nail polish. Use a clear coat on tip for maximum strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T22:30:53.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23796" CreationDate="2014-07-22T23:18:29.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull the tire.  Don't just clear it of substantial debris - clear it of all debris.  If there is something in there it will work though the cords.  If you are into the cord then still do not give up as that is a decent tire.  From the inside if you can see damage to the cord then time to get a new tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you have it off pull the front and rotate. Front tire takes less abuse and less weight.  If I have the rear tire off, it is more worn than the front, and run same tires front and rear then I rotate.  Another opinion is to put the best tire in front. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SheldonTireRotation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me I get a new tire and save that as an emergency spare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't do an insert - that is just what you do to get home.  It will shift and wear out a tube in no time at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T13:07:14.687" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T13:07:14.687" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23424" CreationDate="2014-07-23T01:56:23.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope it's fixed by now! But if it's not, most likely the wheel is not seated correctly. Take it out, and make sure the derailleur is pushed back so the chain loops around the cassette from the top in a counter clockwise direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, I'm sure you can find a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kShrO0yutUQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;youtube demonstration showing you how&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13064" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-08-02T11:28:02.847" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T11:28:02.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21421" CreationDate="2014-07-23T02:28:54.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ride a lot of steep hills and want to spare your knees you can have road shifters in the front and use a long cage RD and use a larger mountain cassette in the back.  I've done this mixed set up with both SRAM Force (double) and Shimano Ultegra triple  road gearing in the front and cage RD's in the back with mountain cassettes in 10 speed.  I had a Shimano 105 long cage RD on my son's last bike with a 11-32 cassette (which is 2t beyond &quot;spec&quot; but worked perfectly).  If you want a bigger cassette then you'll have to get a mountain RD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the comment about chains, remember these 3 letters:  KMC.   They are the OEM for Shimano chains.  They use a &quot;magic link&quot; which is like the SRAM &quot;power link&quot;  but better because the KMC 10 speed links are removable once snapped in (just like the SRAM 9 speed power links which is removable).  SRAM 10 speed power links can not be removed once snapped into place.  Btw, you can buy just the KMC magic link which will work with Shimano, SRAM &amp;amp; Campy chains! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The earlier comment of sticking to one brand has merit because the spacing is different between brands.  In other words you can mix road and mountain front and rear derailleurs as long as you stick to the same brand whether its SRAM or Shimano.  However, there are exceptions (but they can require elaborate operations).... I once had road Campy brifters and used Shimano mountain RD and cassettes (because campy rear cassettes didn't go low enough in previous years).  I had to bring instructions that I found on the web to my lbs (because they didn't think it could be done) and they successfully completed the set up. Btw, that was in the 9 speed era...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13064" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T02:28:54.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-23T07:07:02.543" Score="4" ViewCount="2526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to go off on a 2,600km tour from Austia through Italy, finish in Malta. I originally planned to do this solo trip on my Giant Trance x2 full suspension but decided not to since it is too high maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after a lot of searching (budget being the greatest restriction), I have chosen a Bianchi Hybrid camaleonte &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bianchi/camaleonte-iii-alfine-2009-hybrid-bike-ec019250&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bianchi/camaleonte-iii-alfine-2009-hybrid-bike-ec019250&lt;/a&gt;. Now I'm confused, since it only seems to have 8 gears!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts on the bike? Would you recommend adding on new chain rings if it is possible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many km per day are planning? 200km&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you going to ride over the passes? Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What gear are you going to carry? Tent, clothes and cooking stuff&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will you have other riders with you? no&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What level of riding and touring experience do you have? I've done 2,000 km in 9 days on a high-end mtb&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and it only has one chain ring, os it is a 1x8 setup..in the mountains :S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I look at another bike? It is looking like it! Or is it easy to add 2 other chain rings to the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;Ian&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13096" LastEditorUserId="13096" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T12:19:04.640" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T02:45:46.503" Title="2,600km on an 8 speed bike?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23806" CreationDate="2014-07-23T11:28:57.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have experience running 2600 km tours but have ridden 800 km and similar long rides. &#xA;On a 8-speed bicycle, by the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bicycle has only single chainring at the front I would recommend to take a bike with two or even three chainrings on the front for long climbs which are definitely present in Italy and Austria, otherwise the first serious climb (some 1000 meters above the sea, 7~9%) will destroy you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding this particular bicycle I would avoid Bianchi and avoid aluminium frames. There's nothing particularly wrong with both of them, but Bianchi recently got reputation of &quot;not so reliable&quot; bicycle maker and a decent steel (Cr-Mo) frame will be more sturdy and cheaper. Even used one is fine, since Cr-Mo runs quite long time without issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second thing which concerns me is the &quot;non-traditional&quot; shifter. You won't get it back working if something happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is good about this bicycle - it is light, which is important in long rides. So, I would suggest to look for this balance - lightness vs sturdiness.s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T11:28:57.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23806" CreationDate="2014-07-23T11:29:53.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem won't be the number of gears. Even 3 could be enough - if they were the right ones and you don't mind being slower. More important is the range, the difference between the lowest and the highest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The range of the Alfine 8 speed hub is higher than what you would get of a traditional chain derailleur with only 8 gears (1 front, 8 rear). But its lower than the range of an Alfine 11 speed, a Rohloff hub or a common mtb setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use an Alfine 8 speed on my commuter. I only really use gears 4 to 8. 4 or 5 are perfect to start from traffic lights, 8 is perfect on a slight descent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cog can be replaced to shift the gears in one direction (I plan to install a smaller one to get the used gears more to the middle, leaving the highest gear for faster descents or tail winds). That is not however something you can easily do on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether the gear range fits your needs can be simulated with your other bike. There exist some gear ratio calculators online, most of them include the common internal gear hubs. Plug in the values of your Trance (wheel size, cassette sizes, ...) and find the ratios that correspond to the gears on the Bianchi (I think my Alfine came with a 20 teeth cog ... might be 22). Then try if those gears are right for what you expect on your trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T11:29:53.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14730" CreationDate="2014-07-23T14:57:19.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If in doubt leave the fork locked out. If it's a bolt action mechanical cheap version, then I'd take the switch off so it can't be locked on. If it's not hydraulic lockout then don't bother.  Work on your smooth high-torque cadence and the lockout won't matter. A good rider will be smooth and not bob up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T15:13:01.453" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T15:13:01.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23816" CreationDate="2014-07-23T15:08:38.887" Score="10" ViewCount="7148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a working lightning system on my bike with wired front and rear lights, powered by a dynamo. The dynamo's plastic has broken and I have repaired it several times now, but now it is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FUBAR_(disambiguation)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FUBAR&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking about a replacement, I wondered if it would be possible to just connect some batteries to the dynamo cables. AFAIK the usual voltage for dynamo powered lights is 6 volts, so if I were to add 4 normal batteries (4 x 1.5 = 6) in series, and connect this to the power cables, would it work? Or are there other things to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both front and rear light are LED lights; the rear light has a capacitor to maintain illumination even when you stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use a battery holder like the one pictured below, and rechargeable AA batteries, since I have a lot of them already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any other suggestions on how to do this, I look forward to hearing them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to do this because I have had issues with rim dynamos in the past, and just want a reliable power source; and I am too lazy to install a hub dynamo. It is also a cost issue; I already have the rechargeable batteries, but would have to buy a new dynamo. This is my city bike; it could be stolen at any time, so I do not want to invest a lot of money in components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BhCyU.png&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.tandyonline.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/x/4xaa-battery-holder.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T07:10:29.777" LastActivityDate="2021-03-20T21:26:02.460" Title="Can I replace my bicycle's dynamo with batteries?" Tags="&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-23T18:20:21.533" Score="7" ViewCount="166235" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying to inflate my bike tire, I pump maybe 5 times then it gets difficult for me to pump because the handle is hard to pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13102" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2018-10-27T11:32:02.710" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T19:02:15.310" Title="Difficulty inflating my bike tire" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23813" CreationDate="2014-07-23T18:24:36.243" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your pump is not on the valve properly, so instead of inflating the tire you're just pressurizing the inside of your pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does your bike have Schrader valves (the kind you see on a car) or Presta valves (skinnier, with a kind of pointy top)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it has Presta valves, make sure the top of the valve is unscrewed.  There's a little nut that you can thread up, and you need to do that before you can put air in to the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, try wiggling the pump nozzle around on the valve while you push down on the pump handle, you should be able to hear the change as air starts going in to the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image of a closed Presta valve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RHsBU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://greatbiycletallahassee.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/dsc02731.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image of an open Presta valve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/86apg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://practicalbiking.org/wordpress/files/2010/05/2010_05_01_Presta_valve_nut_loose_DSC_7554.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image of a Schrader valve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGvgH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://velobikeshop.com/images/uploads/schrader.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T22:13:13.343" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T22:13:13.343" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23812" CreationDate="2014-07-23T18:34:15.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory there's nothing wrong with that idea.  In practice there are a few things you'll need to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;LEDs have a cutoff voltage below which they won't work, so you'll need to stay above that&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll need a switch or something&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This will all need to be waterproof &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;LEDs are directional, if you try to power them backwards they won't work&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing inherently wrong with the idea, though, so I'd say go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just buy some new lights, which is probably what I'd do.  You can get a decent set of LED lights for $20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T18:34:15.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23812" CreationDate="2014-07-23T19:35:41.050" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a battery holder and switch from radio shack would accomplish this. Most dynamos are 6vac and can be replaced with 4xAAs or the 5vdc from a USB pack. You can ignore the issue about polarity as the dyno lights that I've worked are either incandescent and don't care or are LED but have built in blocking diodes and don't care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you would want to do this is another issue. I've gone the opposite direction and put a dynohub in my commuting bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: if you are handy with a soldering iron and multimeter, you can remove the diodes/rectifier (and likely super cap) from the LED lights and have them run in straight DC. You'd gain brightness especially when your batteries are running low because you would no longer have the voltage drop of the diodes or rectifiers, but you would need to check polarity and make sure you aren't drawing too much current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T14:42:52.467" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T14:42:52.467" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23812" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:34:05.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just can't think of any reason for your idea not to work, but to be sure, carefully examine both the dynamo and the lamps looking for any identification of operating voltage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, do a search for your Dynamo and light system specifications. If none of these yields any results, then, if you are unsure on voltage, do a simple test with pieces of wire and maybe electrical tape, adding batteries one by one until the brightness of the led resembles its normal level when connected to the dynamo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LEDs are not supposed to be connected directly to a power source without a resistor in series, but it is almost sure that this resistors are already in place in the circuit board inside the lamp units, so I would not worry at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:50:02.703" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:50:02.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23813" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:35:05.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pressure is the ratio of force to the area over which that force is distributed, so if you want to use less force, solution may be a double-handle pump with a thinner cylinder. &#xA;  Pump with a large diameter cylinder can pump air faster but needs more force. &#xA;  Pump with a smaller diameter cylinder will deliver less air with a single stroke, but requires less force to pump, which may be what you need when you inflate high pressure tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13103" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T20:35:05.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23806" CreationDate="2014-07-24T00:25:50.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For such a trip I strongly recommend a purpose built touring bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the loads you'll carry and the climbs, it must have some quite low gears. Most people would need to able to stay seated on 5-7% grades with the bike fully loaded. Some of the passes have sections of over 10%, so the lower gears will definitely help there. Plenty of people use internal gear hubs for touring, sometimes with extra chain rings, so go your own way there. Just make sure you've got those low gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike should have drop bars to give you more variety in your riding position, and it should have relaxed geometry, so that it's nice and stable under the load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For just one tour, I don't think it matters whether the frame is steel or aluminium. What matters more IMO is that you get a week or two of riding the bike you'll take for your body acclimatise to it's particular fit. Two well-fitted bikes still feel different and under load and long kms a new bike can cause aches, pains, and even injuries. So ride it before you go, starting with short rides and increasing to 100km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest thing to advise on is distance per day. On the one hand, planning to average 200km per day sounds huge. On the other hand you say you've done those distances before on a MTB. Are you as fit as you were then? Most serious cyclists would be happy with 100-150km per day, or less as we get older. So the strongest advise I would give is to plan conservatively, be flexible, and plan some rest days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that part of the world I would carry spare tubes, a puncture repair kit, and a few tools. But not too much; you are never far from assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a great adventure! Enjoy :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T00:25:50.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23793" CreationDate="2014-07-24T00:42:06.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, road brake levers are not compatible with v-brakes. If you're dead set on switching to drop bars on a bike with v-brakes, you'll need to either switch the brakes to cantilevers or use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=bicycle%20parts%20travel%20agent&amp;amp;oq=bicycle%20parts%20travel%20agent&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57j69i64.3289j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;travel agent&lt;/a&gt; to correct the pull ratio. Personally, I'd just switch to cantilevers. I've never used a travel agent, but I've heard they can be finicky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a question of shifting compatibility. The first thing to check is that the brands match. Sram and Shimano are not cross compatible, so if you have one on one bike and the other on the other, you'll have problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing to check is the number of gears. Ideally, you want the same number in the front and the rear. If they're different you'll have problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to know if the mountain components that are most likely on your hybrid are compatible with road shifters. If it's all 9-speed Shimano, you should be good. If it's 10-speed Shimano, you're going to run into compatibility problems. One more thing to mention with Shimano is that they have sometimes used hybrid specific front derailleurs that work with just fine with mountain shifters, but sub-optimally when mixed with road shifters. Sram 10-speed is all cross compatible between mountain and road. And I don't think Sram even makes 9-speed stuff anymore. If they do, I'm not sure whether or not it's cross compatible between mountain and road. Someone else, feel free to edit it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, you practically need a flow chart to keep it all straight. If in doubt, check with your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth pointing out that your position on the bike will change. Road levers will put you leaning farther forward on the hybrid. It'll be enough to be noticeable and possibly uncomfortable. You might be able to correct with a different stem, seatpost, and/or seat position. But be aware if you start messing with the stem you're going to change the way the bike steers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T00:42:06.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23806" CreationDate="2014-07-24T02:45:46.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth I have toured on an Alfine 11 speed through some hilly areas across Norway. The lowest ratio is identical between the 8 and 11, the 11 only gets a few extra gears on the high end and slightly smaller jumps between gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I toured with it my final ratio between the chain ring and cog was 1.8:1, which is slightly lower than Shimano's recommendation and may have contributed to an earlier demise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rode with four panniers, full gear and mainly on dirt roads. Overall I found it to be passable, but not ideal and really requires a strong rider.  Under load I think there is is more inefficiency in the internal hub than a well kept chain drive. On short rides it is not too noticeable, but if you are trying to clear 200 km a day you will notice the difference.  I was trying to clear the same distance and figure I was losing a hour a day due the the efficiency differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short it should be doable, but not ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T02:45:46.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-24T04:57:57.687" Score="3" ViewCount="2418" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somehow the little black rubber thing that goes with the brake got folded over the silver round clip... I tried various tools (After my fingers etc hadn't proved useful) in trying to drag it back but it proved seemingly infeasible. So I cut the black thing, then tried to brake and it clicks as though this thing is needed for the brake to clip in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zhvtH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have I done wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13107" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T13:03:37.277" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T15:21:20.990" Title="How to fix V-brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23813" CreationDate="2014-07-24T05:47:33.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air is not going in valve. If Presta valve, the nut on top must be loosened. Then tap the end with your finger. You'll hear a little air escape. Connect the pump chuck and inflate.&#xA;If a Scrader valve (like a car tire valve), the chuck probably is not pressed on far enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T05:47:33.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23822" CreationDate="2014-07-24T07:30:23.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'black thing' is just a boot to keep dust and dirt out. Cutting it off will not have caused any problems with the brake. Is the noodle (The tube the cable goes though) sitting correctly in the hole on the brake caliper? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T07:30:23.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23828" CreationDate="2014-07-24T13:08:05.317" Score="5" ViewCount="3231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am renovating a bike, I guess it's 10 years old. It has internal gears with pedal brake. And then it has a hand brake in the front, I think it is called &quot;cantilever direct pull&quot;. One arm was moving quite smooth, while the other was very stuck, tough not impossible to move by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the process of removing the arm from the brake boss, something remained on the boss: some kind of brass-looking bushing with a kind of rubber gasket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brass part was almost impossible to remove. I tried different things. And only in the end when I took a 60cm pipe wrench was I able to wiggle it off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I felt victorious until I realized that the power needed to clamp around the bushing was enough to deform the boss itself. So now I have a slightly oval boss, just enough to notice with the naked eye. The internal threading is now too tight, but it is possible to put in the bolts though. The real problem is putting a new brake arm on the bushing. I cant even get in one millimeter onto the boss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ckM6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bushing stuck on boss&quot;&gt;&#xA;Picture above shows: Bushing stuck on boss&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ishdy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The other boss, where the bushing easily slid off together with the arm&quot;&gt;&#xA;Picture above shows: The other boss, where the bushing easily slid off together with the arm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNEbn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After removal of the bushing, the boss is slightly oval&quot;&gt;&#xA;Picture above shows: After removal of the bushing, the boss is slightly oval&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is two-fold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) How should I have removed the bushing, without damaging the boss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) How can I fix the boss now, so that I can put a new brake arm on it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6028" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T19:59:28.337" Title="How to remove cantilever brake arm?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23822" CreationDate="2014-07-24T13:21:22.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you release the brake the noodle is probably sliding back a bit because you don't have the rubber boot to hold it in place.  So then there is a gap and it clicks when you apply the brake again.  Does the noodle slide back when you release the brake?  You might be able to fix it by lubing the cable/noodle.  I suspect you can go to a bike shop and get a new boot - that is what I would do.  Or you might be able to use a tie strap or O ring to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T15:21:20.990" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T15:21:20.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23822" CreationDate="2014-07-24T13:48:03.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the &quot;noodle&quot; doesn't clip in right and seems like it is sliding through the &quot;noodle holder&quot; when you apply the brakes, then you might have messed up the noodle holder when messing about with the boot.  There should only be a small gap in the top, just wide enough for the cable to go through. If there is a larger gap, you can try squeezing it either with your fingers or pliers to make the gap smaller.  I've fixed brakes this way before. I think if you have to do this too often, then the noodle holder might break from excessive bending, but if you only have to do it once, it should probably be safe.  See the image below for terms you may not understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RY5jU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T13:48:03.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23825" CreationDate="2014-07-24T14:42:17.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some thought, and experimentation, I will suggest my own answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;How to remove&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Without special tools&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the pipe wrench just enough to wiggle the bushing a few millimeters out. Then use a screwdriver and a hammer to hammer it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;With a puller&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a rather small &quot;puller&quot;. Possibly together with this plate that can close around the boss behind the bushing. The diameter of the rod on the puller might be greater than the inner diameter of the bussing. In that case, I hope it is possible to insert a threaded metalrod into the inner threading of the boss, and then press the puller-rod against the thinner inserted rod. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e04mY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two devices need to be in appropriate sizes, and I was able to find that online in my country. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to fix the deformed boss&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I was lucky, but it was no problem at all. I just pinched on the &quot;ends&quot; of the oval, with the same pipe wrench. After my first attempt I was able to slide a new brake arm on, without any resistance. If that had not worked I would have used a sanding tool, maybe a Dremel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6028" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T14:42:17.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23812" CreationDate="2014-07-24T15:34:48.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Understand that an LED circuit consists of a voltage/current source (dyno or battery), a current limiter (resistor or something more exotic), and the LED itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;LED&quot; means &quot;light emitting diode&quot;, and a &quot;diode&quot; is a one-way switch -- a &quot;rectifier&quot; that, in other situations, can be used to convert AC to DC.  So current only flows through an LED in one direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An LED has a &quot;voltage drop&quot; in the &quot;forward&quot; (conducting) direction of about about two volts.  This means that no matter how much voltage you attempt to apply (up to the point that the LED catches fire), the voltage across the LED terminals will be about 2 volts, with the remaining voltage being &quot;dropped&quot; by resistance elsewhere in the circuit.  So typically, for, say, a 6 volt supply, a series resistor will be added to the circuit to such that the voltage drop across the resistor would be 4 volts at the target current (where V(voltage) = I(current) * R(resistance)).  This is a simplistic &quot;constant current&quot; power supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a dynamo does not produce a constant voltage (it inherently varies with speed), a simple resistance-based constant-current supply is not optimal.  So circuitry is likely to include a transistor or two or three to regulate the current in a different fashion.  Another approach, where AC power is available (as it is with a dynamo) is to &quot;switch&quot; the power so that current only gets through for part of the AC &quot;cycle&quot;.  (This is the scheme used by household light dimmers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the issue here is not so much the LED itself, but the associated current-limiting circuitry.  A simple transistor-based current limiter will probably work fine.  A &quot;switching&quot; scheme will likely fail to work properly when fed DC, and there is some chance of circuit damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T15:34:48.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23833" CreationDate="2014-07-24T16:25:44.583" Score="4" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought a house and found this bike in the garage. I'm currently thinking of giving it a full service, but I'm not a super expert on it and therefore I'd maybe like to take it to a shop. That said, if I take it to a shop, they'll charge me about £50 at least, and if the bike is a really cheap one, then I may not bother...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth getting this bike serviced by a bike shop? What servicing will the bike shop do that I cannot easily do myself&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZxqeW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sS15C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Slanted view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13113" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-07-25T02:21:44.380" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T13:09:02.467" Title="Please help me identify my bike" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20644" CreationDate="2014-07-24T17:39:06.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your current top tube, seat tube and head tube only give scratch the surface of bike fitting.  Your proportions, seat tube angle, BB drop and frame stack are also important factors to getting a great fig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat aside, 10mm in a bike's reach is relatively easy difference to accommodate by changing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stack height (spacers or flipping the stem)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shorter reach road bars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shorter stem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;even choice of shifter/brakes brand can tighten up the reach a bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer playing with a shorter reach bar and stack height before going to a shorter stem. Depending on how much drop you currently have on your road bar, a higher stack may be all that is required. If it you currently have a large amount of drop on the road bike, riding a bike with more stack - less drop on the handle bars - will require more reach to feel comfortable (otherwise you end up feeling cramped). You can draw an imaginary arc by holding your arms constant and pivoting on hips to see how much reach gain you may want for a more upright position. At some point of course if the stack is too high (ridiculously high) you will again want a shorter reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again this is personal preference, but a higher stack also makes sense on a cyclocross bikes (and training bikes). The bike is more manageable on rough terrain and easier to mount/dismount with a bit more stack. It is interesting that so many cross bikes being sold now are so slammed (in terms of frame stack), I suspect this is so they can &quot;look right&quot; when being marketed as a cross-over bike for those that want a winter or training  road bike and not necessarily a cyclocross only bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T17:39:06.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-24T19:04:20.003" Score="1" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure I can find a group in my area that fits for me. Up until now I've been mainly sticking to local rides in areas without a lot of car traffic. Lately I've been riding more with destinations in mind. I've never taken a bike ride from the George Washington Bridge up 9W towards NY but I would like to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mapped out the ride on google maps and it shows that sometimes you ride against traffic and sometimes you ride on the side with traffic. Could someone explain why and where you switch or have a cue sheet? Couldn't find a cue sheet online and the navigation on my android phone doesn't seem to support cycling which has caused me some problems when I've tried to use it on rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8869" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T23:35:42.303" Title="Tips for first time cyclist on 9W in NJ/NY" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23830" CreationDate="2014-07-24T21:28:38.977" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Astra was the Beacon Cycle house brand, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/velos.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;. As @Blam and @Daniel R Hicks say, it's a mid-range 80s bike (that's a compliment)! The lugs, while nothing special, aren't drainpipe thick - this is a good thing. It was probably built well. Crankset may be Stronglight, and the derailleur and front mech are probably Sachs-Huret. Basic components that go on and on and on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell you much more than that, I'm afraid. But it's in excellent condition, so it's a keeper. Since you don't want to spend lots of money on it, it makes an ideal candidate for practicing maintenance skills!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The tyres will be shot, so you should buy some new ones (nothing fancy). I can't tell from the pictures if they're 700c or 27&quot;, but the tyre size will be marked on the sidewall. If in doubt, just take one to your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the spokes by giving them a squeeze - if they feel a bit loose, you might invest in a spoke wrench (inexpensive) and give each one a quarter turn, but no more. The wheels might be a bit out of true, but if they're within 2 or 3 mm, just go with it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The brakes will probably be very mushy and not return well when released. A new set of cables is highly recommended. If you're unsure how to fit them, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/21858/how-do-i-setup-these-brakes/21859#21859&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;. Blast some oil into the pivots of the levers, too. &lt;strong&gt;Addendum: Fitting modern adjustable brake shoes, with modern pads, will really improve the braking performance! Those old pads will be dry and hard, and even when new would have been vastly inferior to today's compounds.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While you're at it, I would remove and dismantle the brake calipers. Clean them thoroughly, and lubricate any and all washers and pivot points, especially the point where the springs contact the arms (friction here can prevent old side-pull brakes from staying centred).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;Don't be afraid to tear down the brakes; just be methodical and document each step, so you reassemble them correctly. When you put them back together, the nuts on the centre pivot should be pretty tight (to eliminate the arms wiggling around from front to back), but not so much as to cause the brakes to bind.&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The headset might feel a bit gritty when you turn the handlebars. It may also be loose - if you squeeze the front brake and rock your weight backwards and forwards on the handlebars, you will feel the fork moving around in the headtube. If either of these symptoms are apparent, you might as well learn to service the headset!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Same goes for the hubs - if they feel gritty, or if they have any play, you might as well give them a new lease of life...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For about £30-£40, you should be able to buy a new pair of tyres and brake cables, a tube of grease, some new ball bearings, a pair of cone spanners, and a big fat headset wrench. With those few bike-specific tools, an adjustable spanner, and a few household essentials (rags), you'll be able to service it no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just get stuck in! You can't really go wrong with a sunny afternoon and a cold beer. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon tells all!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final word to the wise: As it was manufactured by Motobecane, some of the tube diameters and threads may be non-standard. &lt;strong&gt;Do not lose the seatpost!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T13:09:02.467" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23832" CreationDate="2014-07-24T23:35:42.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An additional resource is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stava&lt;/a&gt;. You can join for free, and there is an Android app on the Google &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.strava&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Play Store&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To start planning your ride see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/segments/explore#location/George%20Washington%20Bridge/type/cycling/min/0/max/5/surface/undefined/center/40.894787,-73.910618/zoom/12/map_type/terrain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Stava map&lt;/a&gt;; zoom for more detail. Maybe you'll need to have signed up to see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you set up (or find a route) for your ride, you can download or print cue sheets like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/routes/374616/cue_sheet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Bicycles.SE&lt;/a&gt; members with local knowledge; hopefully they'll post more explicit answers :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T23:35:42.303" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-25T02:57:06.093" Score="30" ViewCount="12813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rear rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't really have a good way to carry pizza.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cables?  Any big enough bags?  I can avoid leaning too much, I'll slow on the turns if I have to..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt;: Delivery?  Not in this town.  I just want a pizza...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="7136" LastEditDate="2014-07-25T03:14:57.370" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T09:32:58.460" Title="Carrying Pizza on a Bicycle" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23835" CreationDate="2014-07-25T03:02:50.303" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally just bungee cord in pizzas to my rear rack and go slowly over bumps and don't corner aggressively. Works fine for one pie. You could attach some plywood or something to the rack to provide a platform if you want it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For multiple pies though (delivery), I think a motorcycle-style carrier may be a good idea (for one, you'll want a heat retaining bag at the least). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T03:02:50.303" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23852" CreationDate="2014-07-25T10:26:58.483" Score="5" ViewCount="5354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ruined the threading in my crank arm, and would like to weld or braze it back on, instead of buying a new crank set. It is a cheap old bike, so the result does not have to be perfect, but it should be cheap and durable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have welded on iron (an exhaust pipe and the like) in the past, and if this was just iron, I could fix it with no problems, but in this case it is not that easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedal arm: I think it is of aluminium. It seems light. Not magnetic. Looks like aluminium. I have no other guesses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedal shaft: Steel, maybe even cast iron? I don't know how to tell the difference. It is definitely not aluminium. The material is stronger than the alu in the pedal arm, since the thread is intact. It looks sort of dirtyish / dark gray. Dark gray like some heavy parts in an engine which I believe are made from cast iron. Only slight rust despite a long life. Very far from the look of a stainless bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CdjIn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank arm with ruined thread and pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you help me figure out what metals they are made from, so I can move on to finding the appropriate welding or brazing? Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6028" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T20:21:53.263" Title="I want to weld or braze the pedal to the crank arm, but what metals are they?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;braze-on&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23835" CreationDate="2014-07-25T10:43:53.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attached a waterproof spruce square (42x43 cm²) permanently with 8 cable zips to my luggage carrier. Corners rounded, holes for bungee cords drilled, bungee cords with cable zips permanently attached on the front sied (so they are not stolen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is dirt cheap, a great help in everyday transport of any goods and lasts for over one year now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Instiration taken from there: &lt;a href=&quot;http://borumat.de/fahrrad-gepaecktraeger-platte&quot;&gt;http://borumat.de/fahrrad-gepaecktraeger-platte&lt;/a&gt; (german) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://borumat.de/bilder/rad/hochstapelei.jpg&quot;&gt;http://borumat.de/bilder/rad/hochstapelei.jpg&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13122" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T10:43:53.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-25T10:47:46.200" Score="3" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed recently that my rear tyre was rubbing on the frame when I was pedalling hard; the wheel had a bit of horizontal play in it, so I thought the cones might need tightening. Anyway, I left it another couple of days, until at some point the wheel suddenly developed a lot more play in it than before. I looked down and saw this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: My rear hub currently looks like this. You can see the bearings inside; none have come out yet and I've stopped riding the bike. Will a hub service sort this out? Or is it likely that I will need a new hub/wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v5zC9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear hub with bearings showing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T04:49:35.897" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T04:49:35.897" Title="What can be done to fix a hub that has come apart?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23839" CreationDate="2014-07-25T11:04:19.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks fixable to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What probably happened is the locknut was loose, and continued riding caused both cone and locknut to unscrew. It's a good job you've stopped riding that bike - riding on that hub now would cause significant damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a hub has a bit of play, the balls are free to move across parts of the cup and cone that aren't designed to support load. Those areas may not have been heat treated and/or polished. That can cause metal wear, resulting in particles grinding between the balls and the 'proper' bearing surfaces. Result: pitted cups and cones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a hub has a lot of play (as in your case now), the problem is exacerbated further - the balls may slip out of place completely and bind the hub, causing irreparable damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That hub is dirty and the grease is foul. Pull the axle, clean the hub inside and out, and clean the axle, cones, and locknuts. Use a good de-greaser, or failing that, ethyl alcohol, lighter fluid, or equivalent. Wipe it all clean with a lint-free cloth and inspect. If the cups have any scratches you can feel with your little fingernail, I'd ditch the wheel. If the cones have any pitting, I'd get a new pair. Whatever the state of the innards, get a new set of bearing balls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon will show you how to re-pack and adjust the hub.&lt;/a&gt; It's not difficult, just a bit greasy and fiddly. Wear latex gloves if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like a particularly special hub, so I wouldn't pay a professional to do it; balls and grease are cheap. Do your best and ride it 'til it fails; then just get a new wheel (it's rarely, if ever, worth the cost of lacing a new hub to an old rim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T11:04:19.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23837" CreationDate="2014-07-25T11:14:12.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on your welding set-up and experience, but I wouldn't bother. Assuming the threads still engage a little bit, I'd get some hardcore epoxy resin (the sort that's specially designed for metal-on-metal; it often contains iron filings). Stuff the crank eye with it and screw the pedal in as far as it goes. Once it's gone off if should be good enough for rock n roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T11:14:12.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19110" CreationDate="2014-07-25T13:06:46.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my efforts to restore a Vitus 979 frame, I found that a combination of coarse and then fine grain bronze wool will eliminate the oxidation and restore the finish of the aluminum. Follow up with Mothers Aluminum Polish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the anodized portions contain oxidation and pitting, the bronze wool will finish it out but obviously the look will be less than aesthetically pleasing.  In my case, I will be painting over the anodized areas which are the tubes in the triangle. I have polished the head tube, BB casing, drops, forks and stays which are all non-anodized. Once finished, with restored Campy components, I hope to have a nice looking machine    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13112" LastEditorUserId="13112" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T20:09:32.160" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T20:09:32.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18430" CreationDate="2014-07-25T13:55:11.870" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Stealth Shield carbon fiber mudguard from Cycle Armour (order at www.cycle-armour.com). It seems to remove about 85% of the dirt from my eyes (more on straights and less on twisty parts). It weighs nothing, looks good, and is very aerodynamic. It actually automatically adjusts if thick mud is encountered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13124" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T13:55:11.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-25T15:28:01.440" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to start a DH race at my local ski hill (which has a few DH trails) and I'd like to know how to setup the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Registration&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practice/Qualis/Race runs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timing/Results&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this is pretty broad, and I have the general idea of how a race weekend goes from watching way too many PinkBike videos, but most of those are large races with sponsors, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the size of the first race will most likely be less than 50 racers or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T02:54:47.207" Title="How to start a grassroots DH race?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;&lt;organized-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23835" CreationDate="2014-07-25T16:41:03.450" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the ultimate in pizza carrying, you want a pneumatic air suspension, pendulum-based anti-sway bar equipped carrier. This are/were used by ramen delivery bicylists in Japan, although they are getting rarer (people don't order delivery ramen noodles like they used to) and mostly on motorcycles now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NPkWK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mxbm3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With one of these babies, your pizza (or ramen) will not sway from side to side, bump around, and end up all mashed into one big congealed mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it &lt;a href=&quot;http://item.rakuten.co.jp/teitofactory/n-box11/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;costs&lt;/a&gt; around $400 and you can only get it in Japan. But if you're serious about your pizza carrying, it's the only way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T16:41:03.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23846" CreationDate="2014-07-25T20:21:45.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am I correct in thinking (based on your PinkBike comment) that you've never personally participated in a DH race?  I would very highly recommend you compete in a few before trying to put on one of your own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a ton of things you'll need to think about, and the best way to get a good list is by attending one yourself and looking around with a critical eye.  Off the top of my head, other things you need to prepare&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bathrooms/porta potties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Race bibs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Food/water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Course marshals &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prizes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other suggestions from comments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Insurance - @Daniel R Hicks&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medical support - @Jahaziel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Course preparation @Jahaziel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Race Categories - @Jahaziel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Competing in a race would give you a chance to look at all these things, and how they can be done well/poorly.  It would also give you a chance to speak to the race organizers in person (although they'll likely be quite busy, you may need to wait until the end) and pick their brains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If going to a different race isn't an option, you might still try to contact organizers and talk to them over the phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to your specific questions, I know there are websites to handle registration; you might check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://racesonline.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://racesonline.com/&lt;/a&gt;, they've done a few races I've been to.  Or you could probably get all the info you need with a Google Drive Form, but that might be a little hard.  On the upshot, it would be free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as timing, there are companies that will rent/come out and operate chip timing equipment (I don't know any off the top of my head), but the budget way to do it is to start two stop watches at exactly the same time in the morning before the race, then send one to the start and one to the finish.  Then you have a person at the top recording the starting time of each bib number, and a person at the bottom recording finishing time.  At the end of the day you go through and subtract all the start times from the finish times, and presto!  This is very cheap, but it's imprecise, and it means you don't get results until the end (unless you have more people with radios communicating times back and forth, which is doable but requires extra hands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice runs seem like they're more or less up to you, and could probably be handled with a chalk board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastEditorUserId="12725" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T02:54:47.207" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T02:54:47.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23837" CreationDate="2014-07-25T21:20:33.143" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will spend far more $$ on welding supplies than the cost of a new crank arm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crank arm is an aluminum alloy and the pedal shaft is a tool grade steel alloy. You can replace both for the cost of just the gas to attempt brazing the two metals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also have to be really good at brazing not to completely destroy the aluminum crank arm in the process. Aluminum has a relatively low melting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was a really old cast steel crank, you might have a chance. But it still would cost more than replacing the crank outright. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T21:20:33.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23837" CreationDate="2014-07-25T23:09:40.430" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welding aluminum and steel is not a DIY skill - read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.esabna.com/us/en/education/blog/can-i-weld-aluminum-to-steel.cfm&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must repair rather than replace, a helicoil is the correct way to address the problem. A crank would be cheaper than the coil alone, let alone the time to fix it. Chemical bonding (AKA. Glue) is probably the only DIY solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue I see is that when a pedal comes off while riding, it usually ends in tears (at best) up to a stay in hospital or worse. Why take the risk? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second hand cranks are readily available - I have a box of bit with at least 2 sets and an old bike with another if I needed it.  Your LBS will probably have something for a few dollars. Visit you local rubbish tip/recycle center - I can almost guarantee they will have an old, unride-able bike with usable cranks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T23:09:40.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23837" CreationDate="2014-07-25T23:23:21.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welding the pedal to the crank should &lt;strong&gt;NEVER&lt;/strong&gt; be done.  Pedal threads are oriented such that in the event of a pedal bearings becoming jammed the pedals will unscrew from the cranks rather than injure the rider.   Severe injury is possible if the pedal jams while pedaling at a fast cadence or on a bike that does not have a freewheel or freehub body (e.g. fixed gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have personally have had pedal bearings jam, while pedaling at an incredibly high rate of cadence and was thankful that the pedal simply un-threaded rather than damage my knee or ankle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt;  I agree with commenters that the primary design reason was likely to allow &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession_(mechanical)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mechanical precession&lt;/a&gt; to keep the threads tight during pedalling. The  un-threading of a jammed pedal is likely a secondary design feature that may or may not been considered during the inclusion of a left-hand thread. The answer however is not trying to provide a history lesson, or in any way comment on the design history, rather it simply discusses what is lost by permanently fixing the pedal axle to the crank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2018-08-20T20:21:53.263" LastActivityDate="2018-08-20T20:21:53.263" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23854" CreationDate="2014-07-26T00:23:17.700" Score="13" ViewCount="11576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see questions where people want a bike to commute, road ride, and take on trails. &#xA;Not one bike will do it all. &#xA;When do I need more than one bike. &#xA;How many bikes is enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T23:38:46.133" Title="When do I need more than one bike? How many bike is enough? How many bikes is too many?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23853" CreationDate="2014-07-26T01:05:37.347" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have n bikes, n+1 bikes is the right amount of bikes to have. ;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically, I think 2 or 3 is adequate - a cyclocross or non-racing road bike can do the first two tasks (road ride + commute) provided it has rack and fender mounts, and one mountain bike is likely good enough for the trails in one's area (if you go somewhere else where another type of mountain bike would do very well, say a fat bike in the snow versus your hardtail which is adequate for your area's trails or whatever,  rent it for the trip). A third would be a winter beater (an old rigid mountain bike, most likely) or something to take to the shady parts of town. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, enthusiasts can always justify more bikes (much like with lots of hobbies). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[There is also the community of monster cross'ers, who build beefed up cross bikes which you can take on lighter trails, so if the trails are light enough, you could do it all with one bike!]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too many would be when it starts affecting parts of your life which you're not okay with,e.g. too much money in bikes, not enough space, not feeding your kids for a new bike, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T01:17:49.250" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T01:17:49.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23853" CreationDate="2014-07-26T01:13:10.150" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won't give my own question the check.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few bikes and I see a bike I want and I am going through the can I justify to myself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How many is too much?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't have room to store them safely and sheltered then too many.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are not going to maintain them then it is too many.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't afford it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When do you need more than one bike?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Range of conditions&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A bike can be pure road - speed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or road and light trail.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or heavy trail.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cannot expect a pure road bike to handle heavy ruff trails.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Security issues&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You don't want to leave your expensive bike locked on the street. &#xA;Pretty easy to justify a cheap second bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ramble around town, shopping, training, racing, or touring.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Justify your next bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What type of riding do you want to do that you are just not equipped for? &#xA;Will you actually use the bike? &#xA;If you will use the bike and will exercise more then go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can you upgrade an existing bike to satisfy the need?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Would a second set of wheels let you bridge the gap. &#xA;Like a set of road wheels for cyclocross.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it such a good deal that you could sell it for close to what you paid for it?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For me that is the easy way. Watch for used bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The equipment on a current bike is outdated. &#xA;It is not worth replacing any major components.  Like my cyclocross is not disc. &#xA;I am going to ride it until it dies but I am not going replace any major components. &#xA;It takes a really outdated bike to justify retiring a working bike - but if you are just plain not riding it because it is outdated and you would ride a new bike then go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Could be as simple as tired of trading out pedals. &#xA;I had have mountain I used for walking the dog and actual trail riding. &#xA;I saw the mountain bike I wanted at great price and just retired the current to dog walker and short city rides with full time flat pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will it save you money?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can you avoid paying for park. Gas you don't need to buy for the car. &#xA;Can you go so far as no car?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not the same as another bike but a nice set of lights lets you extend a bike from day time use to day and night.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want a gravel racer for exercise / speed in town but it is not enough different from by cyclocross to justify.  And I put new wheels on the cyclocross two years ago and I will never wear them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have road bike and if you had mountain bike you would ride just one more day a week then go for it.  It does not need to be an expensive bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some times you get first time buyers that want a bike the will do everything. Pick a bike that will do your primary task and don't break the bank.  Start with a mid range bike.  I see questions of I want in my first time bike and not sure how I will use it and I have a budget of $2000.  My reaction is buy an $800 bike.  Don't spend $2000+ on bike until you know exactly what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a max.  Unless you are a competition rider it would be hard to justify more than 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My collection and how I justify/use from oldest to newest &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trek 1500 road&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not much use as it is 7 speed down tube&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Currently on loan to a friend riding it to grad school &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bianchi Cyclross Concept&lt;br&gt;&#xA;SPD pedals and 35 mm tires&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Was used for training, road, and light trails&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Starting racing cyclocross and now this is my racing bike  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specialized Tricross Singlecross&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Primary commuter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Used great price &#xA;No longer primary commuter but a great backup bike     &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Salsa Vaya&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All round - shopping, leisure, touring, and commute when I can lock inside&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I had to keep only one this would be the bike &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orbea Lonzo&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Single speed mountain with Niner carbon fork and downhill pedals&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Walking the dog and knocking around town&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Used great price&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My 7 speed Bianchi Grizzly just was not hacking it - the Concept was better mountain bike and the Vaya a better shopping bike  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Niner Air Nine Carbon&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Single speed mountain with Niner carbon fork, tubeless, and spd pedals&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I like single speed and fixed fork for learning technique&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The price was so good I could not pass it up&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Would sell the Orbea Lonzo but I just put new tubeless wheels on it&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Started racing cyclocross and use this as my training bike on flat pedals rather than beat up clip shoes &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A month ago I added a titanium Sala cyclocross that I got used for great price.  It quickly took over as my daily commuter.  Yes I take a risk that a more expensive bike will be targeted and stolen but I am riding a bike I enjoy (more) and it is easily to turns my commutes into a workout on a nice day.  I could live with this my Niner and Concept.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T04:51:39.990" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T04:51:39.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23853" CreationDate="2014-07-26T02:52:16.280" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from (n+1), the other honest answer is: as many as your spouse will tolerate, often written as (s-1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time I wrote this answer, I had six bikes (two road bikes, one mtb, two folders, one English cruiser). I had met the spousal tolerance factor. After this, I can only replace, not add. So if I really wanted that Brompton, one of the folders had to go. You can click my profile to see what I currently have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, your question doesn't also get to another important question: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many bikes can you hide / disguise from your spouse by breaking them into individual components (frame, wheels, etc.). I think I could build another bike or two from spare parts in my garage, but don't tell my spouse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T23:38:46.133" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T23:38:46.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23988" CreationDate="2014-07-26T05:11:20.053" Score="2" ViewCount="2881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a brooks B17 leather saddle now for nearly 12 months. It's quite comfortable, has a great design and looks very neat on my bike. I use my bike for my commute every day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is something that bugs me with the saddle. It rubs off. Every time when it rains or when I sweat a little bit more my jeans looks dirty after a ride. Unfortunately sometimes more than that. I cannot say with certainty when the saddle rubs off, it depends on moisture but I don't know how many. The result is, that I use a cover since I noticed that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I read about the Cambium C17. Does anybody has already experience with this saddle, especially with rubbing off?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13132" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T08:18:55.900" Title="Does the Brooks Cambium C17 Saddle rub off?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-26T13:50:25.677" Score="0" ViewCount="2527" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quite basic question; what's the widest tire that can be fitted to a Cannondale Bad Boy 6, 2014 (with a rigid Fatty fork)?&#xA;Would a pair of studded 40mm tyres (Suomi Tyres W240, 40-622) fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13136" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T15:11:28.253" Title="What's the maximum tire width of a Cannondale Bad Boy 6 2014?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-26T14:06:43.610" Score="1" ViewCount="1110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2011 Commencal Supreme DHV3 Team edition and I need to replace the bottom bracket. The problem is that I am confused about what the correct model to buy is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.commencal.net/web_bicycles/techbook/commencal_techbook_2011_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tech book for the bike&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BOTTOM BRACKET WIDTH Type Cranks 83mm Press Fit Shimano BB92&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, doing some online googling I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=121593&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; where the poster has been told that he should buy either &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/uc/en/shimano-bb71-mtb-press-fit-bottom-bracket/rp-prod61801&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano BB71 MTB Press Fit Bottom Bracket&lt;/a&gt; Size - 89.5/92mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/uc/en/shimano-bb91-road-press-fit-bottom-bracket/rp-prod44226&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano BB91 Road Press Fit Bottom Bracket&lt;/a&gt; Size - 86mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This page states that BB91 and BB92 are identical, however this doesn't seem to be the case to me as the BB92 has a shell width of 91.5mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm puzzled as they have different BB numbers and different widths too (the BB92 has a shell width of 91.5mm). I would naturally just choose the BB92 from the Commencal tech book, but can't find any Shimano BB92s for sale in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which model do I go for? Will a BB71 do?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Unfortunately I am not in a situation where I can look at my existing bottom bracket as it has transpired that an incorrect BB was fitted to my frame when I had it serviced about 6 months ago, and I am no longer in the same country...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T14:06:43.610" Title="Choosing the correct Bottom Bracket" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23860" CreationDate="2014-07-26T15:11:28.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd have to test it out - theres enough variation in tires (esp. studded tires) for two tires to be marked the same size and one fit and one not fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/cannondale/questions-about-bad-boy-819282.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; indicates that for an older Bad Boy with rigid fork was able to clear a 47 mm tire (which looks to be the largest possible), so I'd guess the answer is yes, but YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T15:11:28.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23865" CreationDate="2014-07-26T15:30:00.650" Score="7" ViewCount="6843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into buying a commuter bike. Observing other bikers I see some are hunched over their bikes and some are almost vertical. What is considered the best position for commuting?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;[I will be commuting about six miles in NYC (mostly flat save for the bridges); I will not be carrying a lot of luggage]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a dumb question what attributes of the bike contribute to the rider's position? Is it just the ratio of the height of the seat to that of the handlebars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12874" LastEditorUserId="13145" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T07:09:47.107" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T22:53:12.163" Title="Cycling position for commuting" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23863" CreationDate="2014-07-26T16:08:44.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the bike. If you're commuting on a race bike, you'll be more hunched over than if you were commuting on a cruiser. A lot of people use road bikes in NYC, which force you to be more hunched over than on something like a citibike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parts of the bike which contribute to the hunched over ness is primarily the top tube length (the top bar on a standard diamond frame), the stem reach, the handlebars, saddle height and saddle position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best position is something that works for you - you can do your commute comfortably and arrive in reasonable shape (not drenched in sweat for example). As a former NYC'er, old road bikes are relatively cheap to get in the area but I'd feel more alert on a flat bar hybrid (provided I could take it into my office, since the likelihood of something getting stolen in NYC is pretty high). Rack mounts are generally useful, and since NYC gets rain, fenders are too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T16:08:44.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23863" CreationDate="2014-07-26T16:37:31.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm speaking very generally here, but sitting straight up can be comfortable for quite short periods. Probably the most upright are sit-up-and-beg bikes, and if you go over to Holland you'll see 70- and 80-year-olds riding them. The downside is that they're not the fastest bikes around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the other end of the scale, take a look at professional road racers. These guys are as close as possible flat down to the bike. Efficient, but mightily uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reality for the rest of us is that something in between is the most comfortable, but our geometries all tend to be different so different styles suit different people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the good thing is that, based on what you say about distance, speed, terrain, climbing, load etc., your requirements aren't very demanding, so you'll have plenty of choice of styles so you should really be able to find a bike that is comfortable for you. (This also opens up the second-hand market, if you wish.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ridden in London and I assume NYC is similar - be prepared to get a couple of decent locks, and make sure the bike you get will be able to carry them around somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T16:56:39.113" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T16:56:39.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23863" CreationDate="2014-07-26T17:51:20.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First choice is flat or drop bars  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flat bars&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mountain bike style bars.  A more upright position. &#xA;Comfortable and agile but not very aerodynamic.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The single position is fatiguing on long rides.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drop bars&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Road style bars. &#xA;A variety of positions to spread fatigue and deal with head winds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance between the seat and the bars and the height of the bars affects riding position. &#xA;The factors there are top tube length, seat position, and bar position.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer drop bars for commuting (anything on the street).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For commuting you don't want an extreme inclined position. &#xA;Like a touring or cyclocross bike. &#xA;My favorite commuter and riding position is my Salsa Vaya. &#xA;They added a new hand position with a nub on the hoods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28ADO9pC1BY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How To Hold Your Handlebars Like A Pro&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can change handle bar position by moving the spacers, flipping stem up or down, or changing out the stem. And you can rotate the handle bars. Go to a good bike shop that is willing to take the time to help you select a bike and fit (adjust) the bike for you. And don't be afraid to tweak the set up yourself as you get more time on the bike.  And air the tires at least once a week.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t1a8l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DropBars&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T18:11:51.053" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T18:11:51.053" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23871" CreationDate="2014-07-26T19:06:12.390" Score="3" ViewCount="2350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just pulled my old bicycle out of the garage. It's about 10 years old (a 21-speed mountain bike). It was working when it was put into storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I tried to ride it today, the crank wouldn't engage properly to make the chain rings rotate; or more casually, when I pedaled nothing moved but the pedals themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I flipped the bike over and if the rear wheel was spinning at a fair speed then the chain rings would engage when the crank was turned and the rear wheel had power driven to it as normally expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a freewheel or freehub at the crank / chain ring junction that I should examine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read through a few dozen questions but I couldn't find any that addressed this specific issue; I hope this is a new question and not just a serious misunderstanding on my part!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll post a video shortly, but to give further clarification...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain is on the gears; the chain does not slip&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can backpedal and the chains and gears spin, as normally expected&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;However, if I pedal forward, the gears which are located at the pedals will not spin; the pedals rotate freely. They rotate as if the thing they are supposed to be affixed to isn't attached.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm certainly misusing terms here! By &quot;chain rings&quot; and &quot;crank&quot; I was referring to the areas of the bike as indicated in this diagram: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q10d5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bike diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13139" LastEditorUserId="13139" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T19:54:37.993" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T00:01:39.607" Title="Chain rings slip when crank is turned" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23870" CreationDate="2014-07-26T20:18:07.617" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick search turned up &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/58749-cranks-turn-chainring-doesn-t.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;, in which the OP is having the same trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your crank is swaged to the chainrings, as in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yLwev.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swaged crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Swaged&quot; means the &quot;spider&quot; (the group of radial arms that hold the chainring) is press-fitted onto the crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better design is to manufacture the crank arm and spider as one piece, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lETSp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that on your crank, the connection between crank arm and spider has failed. With the bike upside down and the rear wheel spinning, the load is reduced sufficiently for the crank arm to turn the spider and rings. However, it is just metal-on-metal friction that allows this to happen. As you have seen, if the back wheel is stationary, the crank arm spins independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a new drive-side crank. I'd replace the whole chainset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It sounds like you searched and found the same pages I did, and have gotten confused by the suggestions about Shimano's &quot;freewheeling cranks&quot;. Rest assured, your bike will almost certainly not have any weird gimmicky technology like that. Just sounds like a not-so-common failure of a poorly-manufactured crank to me. Swaged cranks are cheap and nasty (no offence intended), but you can replace them with a forged set without breaking the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T20:26:48.407" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T20:26:48.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23876" CreationDate="2014-07-26T21:46:07.443" Score="2" ViewCount="1028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a frame I would like to get repainted. It is a composite of aluminum and carbon fiber (Al main triangle, carbon fiber seat/chain stays). The carbon fiber is unpainted (maybe a clear coat) and I'd like to keep it this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it easy to sand blast just the Al part? If the carbon fiber gets sand blasted it will just get destroyed, right? What would happen if I used glass bead or plastic bead blasting?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It should be no problem for a professional to repaint the Al. Simply mask off the carbon fiber and paint away, right?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T23:33:01.590" Title="painting an aluminum/carbon frame" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23886" CreationDate="2014-07-26T22:10:51.110" Score="1" ViewCount="1827" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my limited experience, soft tires feel more bouncy than hard ones, with same pressure. That is, if you lift and drop front side of unloaded bike, with soft rubber on front wheel it will jump like a bouncy ball (kind of). But with hard rubber it'll jump more like badly inflated football/basketball (at low pressure) or like a sack of potatoes (at high pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things being equal (size, tread, pressure), do you think soft rubber tire will provide better suspension than hard rubber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: made a test with Schwalbe CX Comp (soft) vs some Vee Rubber harder compound tire (same width) - dropped front side of unloaded bike from a small height. CX Comp definitely feels more bouncy and jumps more silently. But actually maybe they bounce with same rebound, since it's hard to measure precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T11:31:45.657" LastActivityDate="2021-05-11T00:30:23.877" Title="Do softer tires provide better suspension?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23873" CreationDate="2014-07-26T22:23:21.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think your premise is right - an overinflated tire should be bouncier and faster than an underinflated tire which should provide better shock absorption at the risk of more tire damage. A properly inflated tire should balance this out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A softer rubber compound should mostly be for increasing grip (and many tires are made of several rubber hardnesses in order to increase longevity). A more rigid construction of the tire (i.e. the actual structure of the tire with cords and what not, and rubber) can change the ride characteristics though (presumably to be more rigid). The term &quot;better&quot; is a bit too subjective and one person may hate the tire which you consider to have the best suspension properties and vice versa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T22:23:21.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23872" CreationDate="2014-07-26T22:29:10.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're better off &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/paint-prep.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;not bothering&lt;/a&gt; - aluminum should be chemically stripped and carbon should be handled professionally from start to finish [and you need special primers and what not]. The problem with sand blasting is that particles can be embedded into the aluminum. Since you have an interface between the materials, it might be more trouble, or it might not be - depends on how the interface is done [note that the vapors of the chemical stripping process may cause troubles].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, finding a professional who can deal with bicycles is a non-trivial matter with a non-trivial price attached, so unless you're particularly attached to repainting this, its not worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T22:29:10.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23872" CreationDate="2014-07-26T22:29:39.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your assumptions are right on, the carbon fiber stays are definitely our biggest obstacle. They prevent you from being able to powder coat the aluminum, the risk of damaging the carbon fiber from heat in the process is too great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A professional in town should be able to properly mask the carbon fiber and sandblast or glass bead blast the aluminum. I believe glass bead blasting is the preferred option and is supposed to be gentler. Then comes the new paint job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, Sheldon has quite a bit of information on the subject: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/paint-prep.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/paint-prep.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T22:29:39.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19165" CreationDate="2014-07-26T22:41:43.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like my &quot;Shoulder it&quot; pannier bag by Ortlieb, it was very convenient for commuting to and carrying inside the university. I even carry it sometimes when I'm not on a bike, though it's not so comfortable on clip-on side. Check out their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.com/p-liste.php?ptyp=racktime-taschen&amp;amp;lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Racktime series&lt;/a&gt;, there are other convertibles there, including backpacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VaErFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T22:41:43.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23873" CreationDate="2014-07-26T22:43:47.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most definitely.  I have some Schwalbe Marathon Plus HS 440 - very puncture resistant tire.  It is hard rubber and has a puncture insert.  It is a hard tire and gives a hard ride anywhere in the pressure range.  I have a softer same size less less ballistic tire on another bike and at the same pressure it is a softer ride a nicer grip.  And it is not the bike - I noticed the hard ride as soon as I put the tires on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a mountain bike?  You want a soft ride then put some 2.2+ tubeless on it and run at 30 - 40 PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T02:44:50.220" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T02:44:50.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23873" CreationDate="2014-07-26T23:15:42.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Batman mentions, it's more about the construction than the rubber compound, but I suppose thick MTB tyres will cushion bumps better if they are made from softer rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lightweight racing tyres tend to be thinner, especially in the sidewalls - there they are made as thin as possible because puncture resistance is not a priority. Such tyres are typically very supple, and even when inflated to high pressures (100-120 PSI) they can still feel &quot;soft&quot; and provide a very nice ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wider tyres can also improve the suspension effect. Generally their recommended pressure range will be lower than that of an equivalent narrow tyre, because they hold a greater volume of air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T23:37:23.737" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T23:37:23.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23870" CreationDate="2014-07-27T00:01:39.607" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Less likely than the above, but there's also the possibility if you have removable cranks (where the crank arms can be pulled   off of the spindle, like the common JIS tapered spindle cranks many mt. bikes have)  that both  crank arm have come loose from the spindle.   Take a look.  If you have that type then there's a dust cap in the center of the crank set you have to remove, under that there should be a bolt that holds the crank arm to the spindle.  Check that to see if it is loose.  If it is loose, it is best to remove both crank arms and determine what's causing it to be loose.  You may determine the taper profile on the spindle is damaged, and the spindle (or entire BB set, or possibly both the BB set and the crank set ) needs to be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13143" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T00:01:39.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23839" CreationDate="2014-07-27T00:13:22.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all else fails you could just replace the hub/axel.  Provided you can find one where all the dimensions are the same (flange spacing, flange diameter, number of holes, axel length matches drop-out spacing, etc), then you can re-use the same spokes/rim.  Just unlace, then relace.    Or if you simply want to get back to the pedaling and don't want to deal with spokes,  just buy a new wheel.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13143" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T00:13:22.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23837" CreationDate="2014-07-27T00:26:46.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either a helicoil or a replacement crank arm (or set) is a better choice.  You local bike shop might have some compatible used cranksets they'd sell for cheap. Or look for some on your local internet flea market.   The shops are getting in old bikes as trade ins all the time and might use the parts off those bikes for this kind of job.   I'd replace the pedals too, otherwise you risk damaging the crank arm threads again.  I think in the long run you'll be money ahead, have a more reliable and safer bike,  by not trying to do this w/a patch-welding job.   Think about it.  The only problem you have is a a damaged hole in the crank arm. A faulty hole.  That's not such a big problem, right?  So that's what you need to focus on.  Don't overcomplicate it.        &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13143" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T00:26:46.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23813" CreationDate="2014-07-27T00:33:32.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had that happen with schrader valves when I don't get the fitting on the valve stem all the way.  There's a little pin that has to be pressed down in order for air to get into the tire, and if it isn't pressed down enough, it won't allow any air in no matter how much you pump.  Make sure you press hard enough to fully seat the pump fitting onto the valve. If that doesn't help, your tire valve could be stuck closed, or the pump fitting (the thing you press over the tire valve) might be broken.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13143" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T00:33:32.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24762" CreationDate="2014-07-27T00:40:35.397" Score="4" ViewCount="2522" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike is a relatively new Cannondale Carbon Synapse with the Ultegra 6800 groupset (although front chainrings are FSA).  Has about 1000KMs on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike has been great, but I went out on a ride today and about 40K in or so it started losing the chain off the inner front ring.  Prior to this it was tuned perfectly and then suddenly I couldn't pedal more than 10 rotations without the chain coming off (not shifting at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took out my tools and adjusted the L screw to tighten up the gap and it still happened.  Then I thought I'd just keep out of the lowest rear gear so I could just get home (I was stuck going up a big hill).  Still no luck.  Must have tried 12 times and lost the chain every time within 10 feet of starting up again - making adjustments every time.  By the end of it both the front and rear derailleur were adjusted to be pulling the chain away from the inside brutally - just trying to get home. Eventually I had to give up and call for a pickup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I noticed was that immediately before this happened the rear cogs were getting funny - it kept wanting to shift down (before the hill - was in a higher gear so in the big ring at the font - didn't lose the chain, but was going all squirrelly in the rear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see what is doing it.  Chain rings don't have any bent teeth. Seems to only really happen under load. I can tighten up the L screw to the point where it is rubbing the chain and it still will manage to come off if I put any load on the drivetrain. I don't even see how that is possible but it is what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what is going on - any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13144" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T23:29:30.500" Title="Chain falling off inner chain ring no matter how L screw is set" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23796" CreationDate="2014-07-27T00:40:57.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me from the condition of the tread like you'll be replacing the tire pretty soon in any event.  It might be possible to limp along like this a while longer, using a liner or such (I've used a dollar bill in a pinch for that),  but what can happen is eventually the tube will poke through the tire and when that happens it wears quickly or pinches and &quot;pop&quot; you'll have a flat tire.  I had that happen to my mt bike's tire when I was trying to get a few more miles out of a worn tire, but not a problem b/c I only use that mt  bike on dirt trails,  going slow up steep up hills, and always go very slow downhill. So it was at most an inconvenience.  But if you were say to be riding on a paved road at 40 mph and the tire popped, well, then it might be more than an inconvenience.  Buy a replacement tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13143" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T00:40:57.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23873" CreationDate="2014-07-27T03:06:55.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are tires made out of thin layers of relatively soft rubber, and ones (usually for puncture resistance) made out of thick layers of relatively stiff (almost like plastic) rubber.  At a given tire pressure, the soft tire will be &quot;bouncier&quot; because the softer rubber has less of a viscoelastic damping effect than the harder rubber.  As a result, the softer tire will have less rolling resistance &lt;em&gt;for a given tire pressure&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is why I prefer puncture-resistant tires that employ a Kevlar belt (eg, Forte K models) vs those (Schwalbe Marathon) that employ a thick hard rubber layer in the tread -- less rolling resistance.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T03:06:55.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23888" CreationDate="2014-07-27T04:37:45.607" Score="0" ViewCount="880" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike's quick release seat has been slipping down recently.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I noticed when my (pro) biker friend remarked how low down the seat on my bike was, and helpfully readjusted it for me. Biking became easier. Yesterday, while biking, I noticed that biking was difficult again, so dismounted and checked the seat -- it was way down again.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So I fixed it.....but what can I do to make sure it doesn't happen again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13145" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T04:43:51.560" Title="Quick-release seat slipping down" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-07-27T16:40:55.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23887" CreationDate="2014-07-27T04:43:51.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to make sure that you're actually tightening the quick release down - it should leave an imprint on your hand when you close it down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put a product like frame saver in the frame, you'll need to tighten it down extra since that makes seat posts super slippery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8090/problems-with-a-slipping-seatpost&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T04:43:51.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-27T08:29:40.700" Score="2" ViewCount="1419" Body="&lt;p&gt;During operation, disc brake pads cut grooves into the rotor. When replacing the pads with new ones, would it be a good idea to smoothen the rotor with sandpaper(e.g. grit 200 then grit 800)? What is the role of these grooves on the disc in braking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T21:37:06.137" Title="Is it a good idea to sand off the rotor when exchanging disc brake pads?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-27T11:50:59.603" Score="1" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not the most knowledgeable when it comes to bikes so please bear with me. I have a Claud Butler and after fixing a puncture I decided to ride it. As I was riding, I could hear a sort of rattling whilst in the low gears, but then when I went up in gears, I noticed that the sound continued but also it felt like the chain was slipping. After inspecting it later, I believe it has something to do with the rear derailleur, as every now and then it would spring forward a little and then return to just the rattling sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this problem, and what can be done to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13150" LastEditorUserId="13145" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T06:30:05.227" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T06:30:05.227" Title="Chain Slipping?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-27T13:47:46.663" Score="2" ViewCount="1662" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nashbar floor pump with an automatic Presta/Schrader head. The valve holes are on one side of the head and the air is supposed to switch to the hole with the valve inserted. It used to work great but now it won't switch, i.e. it blows air to the side that's not attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the normal stuff, banging, wiggling the head etc. Is it dirt inside the head? Worn parts? Has anyone tried to take one of these apart? WD40? Or should I just get a new pump? It works great otherwise; when it's selected to the right hole (sometimes Schrader, sometimes Presta), but 90% of the time it's on the side I don't want! And because of my budget it was one of my &quot;major&quot; purchases!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10797" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T15:51:09.523" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T16:08:01.847" Title="Sticky / broken floor pump head?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23893" CreationDate="2014-07-27T14:22:01.160" Score="4" ViewCount="1549" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are aero bars usually disallowed in Gran Fondos (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclosportive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cyclosportive&lt;/a&gt; events)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just curious.  I would think it would be a useful piece of equipment when riding 100 miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13152" LastEditorUserId="13152" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T19:39:14.070" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T07:28:09.953" Title="Why are aero bars usually disallowed in gran fondos?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23892" CreationDate="2014-07-27T14:26:06.933" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now realise &quot;gran fondo&quot; is American terminology for &quot;cyclosportive&quot;. That sort of event falls loosely between audax and racing. The randonneuring community prize responsible riding, and tend to frown upon behaviour or equipment that could be deemed &quot;antisocial&quot;. For example, most audax events require riders to fit mudguards, for the benefit of others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &quot;gran fondos&quot;, although riders may only be competing against their own personal goals, they may find themselves sharing the same stretch of road with others, and some participants may wish to treat the event as a private race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steering control is severely compromised when using aero bars. They're not considered safe when riders may be racing in close proximity - a slight wobble could cause a major takedown. They're not great for cornering either. Hence the reason they're illegal in most events, except triathlon and time trials, where riders are mostly spread apart and riding fairly straight courses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T18:22:42.810" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T18:22:42.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23897" CreationDate="2014-07-27T14:33:21.983" Score="4" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at a bike which describes the gears as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3 speed internal geared hub, 42t front and 16t rear gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the latter spec (42t/16t) describe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12874" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T16:23:20.827" Title="Decoding internal gear specs" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23891" CreationDate="2014-07-27T14:40:01.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely a gasket/o-ring blew or some debris is caught up in the internals. I wouldn't use WD-40 as the light kerosene can deteriorate o-rings or some plastics. I'd try with some canned air / compressed air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your pump head is well designed, you can take it apart and rub some silicone lube on the o-rings and mating surfaces to help restore the seal. If you don't have silicone lube, look for a grease that is o-ring/plastic friendly (WD-40 and vaseline are NOT o-ring friendly). In the image below (of a portable not stand pump) the o-rings and gaskets/plunger are the two circled objects in the very middle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2FV0v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note 1:You have to BE VERY CAREFUL of both the order and direction of parts in a pump head, flip them around and the pump head won't work or will work poorly. Taking photos of the pump head while you take it apart is highly recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note 2: Your pump will be more complex because it's dual-head and designed for one side (presta/schrader) to be automatically closed when the other side (schrader/presta) is in use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't work, it might be easier / faster / cheaper to just replace it. Do a search on amazon (or your LBS) for &quot;replacement bicycle pump head&quot; or &quot;bicycle pump head upgrade.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KEmeA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pump head replacement&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RIKXD.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pump head replacement&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T16:08:01.847" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T16:08:01.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23891" CreationDate="2014-07-27T15:54:47.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all likelihood, the best option is to buy a replacement hose+pump head assembly. For Nashbar products they are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/SubCategory_10053_10052_204807_-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;relatively cheap&lt;/a&gt;. Typically cheaper pump heads aren't really servicable, but you can try taking it apart and putting it back together (but this is likely going to be more expensive than the 5 dollars for a new pump head+hose). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T15:54:47.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23894" CreationDate="2014-07-27T15:57:24.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to have a chainring in the front attached to the crank and a cog on the back attached to the internal gear hub to use an internal gear hub (IGH) (and the chain goes between the chainring and cog, as on a usual single speed bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An IGH drivetrain installation looks like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MUIfU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alfine_drive_train&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Looks just like a single speed from the outside with a 42t in the front and 16t in the back in the case of the bike you're looking at). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the chainring is 42t and the cog in the back attached to the internal gear hub is 16t. This choice of chainring and cog determines the gearing achievable by the internal gear hub. Roughly speaking, when in the middle of the 3 speeds, your gearing will be determined by the 42/16 combination. Then, the low will drop it around 25% from that while the high will increase it around 33% from that (typically; the numbers may vary for your particular model). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/internal-gears.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; by Sheldon for more details on how IGH's work and related things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T16:23:20.827" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T16:23:20.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-27T16:48:02.613" Score="1" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Mountain Bike ,about ten years old,Three (3) sprockets in front.&#xA;It backpedals (whizzz) But when I go to pedal there is no engagement - Pedals turn but sprockets don't move..But sprockets move when backpedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;edit&amp;lt;- I searched Batman's &amp;amp; the other person mentioned for this &quot;Duplicate question&quot; but found none similar.&#xA;   It's Shimano parts , the pedal arm is white aluminum, the &lt;em&gt;chaingears&lt;/em&gt;, is that the word for sprocket ? The Chaingear/sprocket where the chain rides on is Black Aluminum.&#xA;    When I look behind the assembly,Down at the crank axle,  and while turning crank by using pedal, A round circular part is turning with the pedal , But it is perfectly round and factory made like that ,Looks like a part of chaingear, It's also Black Aluminum, Maybe there's a catch or pin that's broke ?&#xA;  While I grasp the pedal and crank forward , both pedals turn as supposed to , But the chaingear/Big circular saw piece remains idle, It does not move , &#xA;  But it moves when backpedaling, As does the gears on the rear tire..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;      &lt;p&gt;edit edit&gt;&gt; &#xA;        I proceeded to cross a peculiarly arranged intersection, I deemed the coast clear , 5 feet from safety my pedals gave out , I could pedal easily and freely but no movement on my front chaingear and as a result - No torque available to propel my rear gear into saving my life.&#xA;       A car whizzed around the corner and straight at me at the same time my 21 speed Mountain Bike with GTX tires Shit thine bed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13153" LastEditorUserId="13153" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T23:08:20.727" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T23:08:20.727" Title="Pedals turn but front sprocket does not" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2014-07-27T20:41:40.577" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-27T17:39:13.637" Score="0" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cantilever brakes have roughly 1mm movement in them and can be moved backwards and forwards very easily by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this because the shoulder bolt is too long or should the setup have some extra washers in place to stop this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will braking be improved by changing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T17:39:13.637" Title="cantilever brakes have 1mm play in then is this normal?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-07-27T20:38:12.617" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23904" CreationDate="2014-07-27T18:48:35.060" Score="3" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/jicheng369/status/485026087039422464/photo/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post by Ji Cheng&lt;/a&gt; (Lanterne Rouge) on Twitter. My question is about the apparatus he posts a picture of. It contains (his?) shoes. Simple question, what is this machine exactly doing? Is it to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23334/how-do-i-get-rid-of-odor-from-cycling-shoes/&quot;&gt;get rid of odors&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2BJuw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Apparatus cycling shoes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7525" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T01:16:10.507" Title="What is this apparatus for?" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-27T20:07:14.277" Score="2" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got my single speed frame and forks powder coated and at the same time had a number of parts replaced - bottom bracket, chain ring, chain and freewheel cassette.  Really please with everything I took it for a ride and almost immediately heard a rat a tat noise coming from the bottom bracket.  Can be felt through the pedals and saddle.  The noise came and went so I returned it to the bike shop who checked and regreased everything.  They put their pedals on and stated the noise disappeared.  I've taken it out again and happily found the noise had gone until 3 miles in when I freewheeled for a bit and when I started pedalling the noise was back with a vengeance.  The volume varies and comes and goes but only ever appears after I stop pedalling for a bit and restart.  I'm convinced it is not my pedals as never been an issue and the noise just doesn't fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas before I go back to the shop to protest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13155" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T23:15:05.857" Title="Rat a Tat noises coming from my bottom bracket area. Please help!" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23889" CreationDate="2014-07-27T21:37:06.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike car disk brakes, there is not a lot of spare &quot;meat&quot; on bicycle rotors. &quot;Machining&quot; the rotors is not really feasible. If they are worn to the point grooves are causing performance issues, the rotors should be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanding them down evenly (without expensive machining tools) will be next to impossible to remove scoring and maintain a uniform rotor thickness. It is likely to cause pulsating or even the brakes to grab or lock up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A light sanding probably will not hurt, but is unlikely to make any significant difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T21:37:06.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23900" CreationDate="2014-07-28T01:16:10.507" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a machine used for heating the shoes so that they can be formed to your feet. the shoes are heated. You then put them on your feet and they use a vacuum bag around the shoe to compress it against your foot so it gets the proper shape. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/2012/05/shimano-2012-r315/&quot;&gt;Here's an article&lt;/a&gt; that explains it. I've had something similar done for hockey skates, although without the vacuum, and the result was quite comfortable skates. Hockey skates are quite hard, so I could see this being necessary to get the right shape. Cycling shoes are often rigid, at least in the sole, so I could see it helping with fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T01:16:10.507" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23902" CreationDate="2014-07-28T01:20:49.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's the single speed freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just been through almost exactly the same thing with a brand new Cross Check SS. From day one I had a fast, regular clicking when pedalling, about 4-5 noises per pedal revolution. I could sometimes get it to calm down by pedalling backwards a bit. I was convinced it was the bottom bracket too, until I got the whole crank section rebuilt and it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually found some forum posts that described a problem with some SS freewheels, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/436916-freewheel-noise-while-pedaling.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/436916-freewheel-noise-while-pedaling.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/general-cycling-discussion/whats-knocking-my-single-speed-211923.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/general-cycling-discussion/whats-knocking-my-single-speed-211923.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike came with a 17 tooth Shimano freewheel. I got a White Industries freewheel instead and it's been a dream (although the normal ratchet noise when freewheeling is louder now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you try a fixed cog or another rear wheel to eliminate the freewheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3710" LastEditorUserId="3710" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T06:36:53.243" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T06:36:53.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23908" CreationDate="2014-07-28T01:51:55.640" Score="1" ViewCount="5632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to keep my bike in the car on days I drive to work, in case I need it to get to a meeting in another building.  However, I'm concerned that it gets too hot some days.  Is there a temperature at which bike components might overheat or be damaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13157" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T02:17:34.170" Title="What is the maximum safe storage temperature for a bike?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23906" CreationDate="2014-07-28T02:02:43.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of tyres exploding if inflated close to their limit when cold, then left in a hot confined space. But unless you're running your tyres at 100 PSI and up, I wouldn't be too worried. But perhaps someone with more knowledge will chime in; I'm just hazarding a guess about that. I don't think there's anything else on a bike you'd need to worry about though, not as far as temperature goes, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon fibre doesn't like UV. Most if not all carbon fibre products use UV-protective resins in their construction to avoid delamination from prolonged exposure to sunlight. I'd be a bit suspicious of cheap n cheerful carbon parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be on the safe side, let your tyres down a bit and keep a white sheet over the bike when it's in the car. Probably a good move anyway; a bike is a good reason for a car thief to break in... it doesn't matter if your car's alarmed; they're stealing the perfect getaway vehicle!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T02:02:43.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23906" CreationDate="2014-07-28T02:17:34.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly carbon bikes are a problem, but a regular steel/aluminum bike will have no trouble with &quot;reasonable&quot; heat (such as the inside of the average parked car) for a few hours.  The biggest dangers are blown tires (if they were near their pressure limit to begin with) and melted plastic parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If left in a regularly hot place for weeks/months/years, however, eventually the grease in the bearings will break down and ooze out, plus the heat will take a toll on paint, tires, and plastic parts.  And electronic parts are apt to be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T02:17:34.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23911" CreationDate="2014-07-28T08:46:47.563" Score="3" ViewCount="1368" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know aero bars are considered unsafe for peloton, does this extend to disc brakes whose rotors can be hot and sharp? I'm not talking about races, just casual training rides: is it reasonably safe for others in the group?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T10:18:40.210" Title="Can disc brakes be considered safe for road group rides?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-28T08:49:59.317" Score="0" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cannondale Quick Cx5 with V brake. &#xA;I'm wondering whether I can upgrade to disk brake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12625" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T08:49:59.317" Title="Can I upgrade V-brake to disk brake for Cannondale Quick Cx 5" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-07-28T13:02:55.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23909" CreationDate="2014-07-28T09:00:25.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never ridden in a peloton but I would say they should be not more unsafe than the chain blades that are already on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While riding, the only parts of your neighbour's bike that you would be able to hit should be the handle bar and maybe their pedals. Everything else is far less outstanding than those two parts and you should collide with your neighbours body before coming even close to say their disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the only real chance to hit someone else's brake rotors might be in case of a crash where you fall on their bike or their bike falls on you. In this case, there are a lot of parts on a bike that could give some bad injuries, for example the chain blades. And you will also hit the ground, so chances are high that you get injured by the fall as well. Adding disc brake rotors (which even are somewhat &quot;shielded&quot; by the wheel itself) might not add significant injury risk in this case. So I would consider them safe in these terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point that might be worth a thought is their performance. Image the guy in front of a group is the only one to have disc brakes and does an emergency stop. With their bigger brake performance they might decelerate much faster than the ones with the conventional brakes behind them, causing all others to hit him from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-08-01T10:18:40.210" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T10:18:40.210" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23912" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23913" CreationDate="2014-07-28T09:29:30.970" Score="4" ViewCount="2140" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between a Chain Splitter and a Chain Tool and a Chain Breaker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they the same thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13099" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T11:49:43.230" Title="Chain Splitter vs. Chain Tool vs. Chain Breaker" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23912" CreationDate="2014-07-28T09:34:15.303" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are only really two &quot;chain&quot; tools (i.e. tools with &quot;chain&quot; in their name). One is used to break a chain, and goes by names such as chain splitter or chain breaker. So you'd use this for removing a chain completely off the bike, for example to replace it. You might also want to look at Power Links in this context, as using a Power Link means you can sometimes avoid using a chain splitter altogether (which requires a degree of precision).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2YfZJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain Splitter or Breaker&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is used to hold a freewheel/cassette in place, and is called a chain whip. You'd typically use this in conjunction with a lockring, when you want to remove the freewheel/cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoDJH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain Whip&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I've heard both called a &quot;chain tool&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T11:49:43.230" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T11:49:43.230" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23922" CreationDate="2014-07-28T12:38:10.817" Score="13" ViewCount="2736" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a collision where somebody fell on me, my front wheel is twisted to the point that it slightly touches the brake once per revolution causing a soft screech. Logistically, I can't get to the shop to repair it right away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, is this condition dangerous? Should I stop riding the bike until it is repaired? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, if there is no danger, what are the pros and cons of repairing it at all as opposed to leaving it that way? This is a cheap bike I bought used, and if they need to exchange the whole wheel, it might cost more than I want to pay. I find the sound slightly annoying, but not terribly intrusive, and if there are other influences on the riding experience (slower speed?) I haven't noticed them. The light dynamo still works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's relevant, I'm talking about a simple Dutch style bike without any fancy parts. I only ride it on paved flat streets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12601" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:49:24.423" Title="What are the downsides of a twisted wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23914" CreationDate="2014-07-28T12:45:28.850" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are lucky to have V-brakes, because they make repairing the wheel yourself an easy half an hour task. Plus the tool is $2 usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spokes pull the rim one way or the other (look at the spokes and their angle from the hub flange to the rim). If you tighten a spoke, it pulls the rim away. So, you 1) tighten your brakes barrel adjuster until they rub heavily 2) tighten the 2-3 spokes around the dent to pull the rim away 1/2 or 1/4 turn and loosen the the same amount the spokes, pulling the rim the other way 3) repeat many times, until there is nearly no rub 4) loosen the brake's barrel adjuster to the normal riding setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't fix the wheel, it will be easier to get damaged the next time. That's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjkR5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T12:45:28.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23890" CreationDate="2014-07-28T13:40:47.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem you are describing, sounds like the chain is either trying to climb gears or drop gears.  This is caused by incorrect cable tension on your derailleur.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While riding the bike, watch (or to be safe, have someone else watch) your rear sprocket and see if the chain is trying to climb up to the next bigger gear, or drop down the the next smallest gear.  If either is the case, you can attempt to correct this yourself by making minor adjustments to the derailleur cable tension, then riding to test if the behavior is improving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the derailleur adjustment barrel on the derailleur [see image] (or there is often one on the shiftier on the handlebar as well).  If the chain is trying to climb, loosen tension on the cable by turning the barrel clockwise, if dropping, increase tension by turning the barrel counter clockwise.  Make minor adjustments ( 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWYyj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;derailleur adjustment barrell&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are not that familiar with bicycles, you could mark where you start, so you can return to that point if this does not correct your issue.  The adjustment shouldn't require more than a couple full turns at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13163" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T13:40:47.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23825" CreationDate="2014-07-28T15:23:40.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time bosses thread into the fork arms, although it's possible that they are permanently affixed. A shop should be able to advise you, and if they are replaceable should be able to help you find the correct replacement part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T15:23:40.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23914" CreationDate="2014-07-28T15:24:17.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a down side to not fixing the wheel if it is bent enough to rub the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brake will rub slowing you down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brake will rub wearing out the brake pad.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And causing slight wear to the wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wheel will wobble a bit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If on the front you may notice the bars shaking a bit and hard to ride with no hands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wheel will take some stress. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to hear it rub.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider getting a spoke wrench and at least true it enough to not rub on the brake.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svMMaGMsIMw&quot;&gt;How to true a wheel while its on your bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is only rubbing lightly then no real harm riding it a few days if you are not riding it hard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US is is $15-$20 a wheel.  Some times I see 2 for $30.  If the other wheel has any wobble then consider doing both. They need to pull the tires and tubes to true so if you pull them you make it easier on the shop. I do it because I think they may take more care in truing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T17:51:06.443" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T17:51:06.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13505" CreationDate="2014-07-28T15:26:41.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correctly set up V brakes don't make feathering any harder or easier than correctly set up cantilevers.  What you give up with V brakes is clearance--for things like mud.  If you ride in dry conditions, the V brake is likely superior.  If you ride a CX bike mostly on road or gravel, the V brake is likely superior.  If you ride in gloppy sticky mud, a wide-open cantilever will take longer to cake up...and will be superior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T15:26:41.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23914" CreationDate="2014-07-28T15:31:02.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it barely touches the brake pads, then it is not critical, you should be able to ride the bike for a time before taking it to a shop for truing, specially if you ride it only for commuting on paved roads, However, don't let the problem stay forever, as it will degrade over time and will get harder to fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend riding a bent wheel on a racing bike because of the much more demanding loads (Higher speed, hard pedalling, hard cornering).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downsides, as the previous answer says, is that the wheel in this state is prone to be damaged more easily in case of another collision or in case of an overload. (Say, loaded panniers or a passenger in the bike). That is because laced wheels depend on certain degree of symmetry to evenly spread the loads through several parts each time. When a wheel is bent, part of the spokes are bearing more tension than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike wheels have relative high tolerance regarding symmetry failures, specially steel rims, that tend to be common in cheap bikes. (Here in my country I have seen people riding wheels so bent that you can even see them wobbling from several meters away.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another downside is that It causes uneven / unnecessary wear of the pads, and it also slows you down. (Every time the rim touches a pad it's like braking a little)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first answer briefly explains how to resolve the problem by yourself, but if you want more information, search for tutorials on &quot;How to true a bicycle wheel&quot;, there are plenty of them. You will even find several videos. Search for one that explains how to do it on the bike (Professionals use a truing stand, but it's not worth for a one time job).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tool you need is called &quot;Spoke wrench&quot;. If the spokes are rusted or if they haven't been adjusted for a long time the nipples may be seized to the spokes. You can use penetrating oil or rust remover. Let soak in before working on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:49:03.907" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:49:03.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23914" CreationDate="2014-07-28T15:43:29.663" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any wobbly wheel with standard spokes can be &quot;trued&quot;, so long as there no broken spokes and the rim itself is not bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It requires the proper size spoke wrench and a &quot;truing stand&quot;.  For more precise work you would also want a centering gauge, but that's not necessary in simple cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;truing stand&quot; can be a fancy $300 affair, an el-cheapo $50 unit, something you cobble up, or the bike itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d9ABU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spoke wrench should be a good one.  The circular wrench with multiple notches is a poor choice here, as it is often poorly made, does not get enough of a grip on the spoke nipple, and can hence can result in &quot;rounded&quot; nipples.  Invest in a good wrench for your specific size spoke nipples:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0e178.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, use a good-quality multi-size wrench like:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NbbX8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For newly built wheels many folks like to have a spoke tension gauge as well, but it's not necessary (and probably a distraction) for truing up a wheel such as in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truing is simple and complicated.  It's simple if you only have to slightly tweak the wheel, and if you have a good understanding of the mechanics of the wheel.  It's complicated if you're truing a newly-built or badly &quot;tacoed&quot; wheel, or if you don't understand it and and are trying to do it according to some &quot;cookbook&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic process is to observe how the spokes run, tighten those that will pull the wheel &quot;true&quot;, and, sometimes, loosen &quot;opposing&quot; spokes.  To tell if the wheel is true you spin it in the &quot;truing stand&quot; and observe whether the two indicator fingers maintain a constant distance from the rim or move in/out relative to the rim.  When you use a bike for a truing stand the brake pads (of rim brakes) serve as the indicator fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make adjustments in small amounts -- rarely more than one complete twist of the wrench, and more often one-half or one-quarter turn.  Spin the wheel to check after each adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be wary of &quot;stuck&quot; nipples.  If the nipple will not turn on the spoke after applying a moderate force (the spoke will twist instead) you may have a seized nipple and going to a bike shop may be a better option.  Rounding over a nipple is not the end of the world, but it's a bit of a pain, since the tire must be removed to get the nipple out and replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T15:43:29.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23909" CreationDate="2014-07-28T17:46:25.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes are reasonably tucked away on the frame and fork and as such pose relatively little danger relative to other components such as the large chain ring (which I have experienced in a peloton crash... Yay, stitches!).  If you do experience complaints it would likely be either do to out of date rules or prejudices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of braking performance gap, I don't see this being a contributor to crashes as you should really never be using full brake power within a peloton setting. Braking should always be done with mindfulness of others and in a controlled fashion. If anything disc brakes provide finer control and could potentially be safer.  In the situation of absolute emergency stops, yes you could out brake a rim brake in wet conditions which could cause a problem.  However, if you are in the situation of an all out emergence stop within a peloton, something has already gone horribly wrong and really all bets are off in terms of outcomes.  Under dry conditions I personally haven't notice any real world differences in total braking performance between road disc brakes and well set up rim brakes. Modulation, yes, but total power no. Maybe hydraulic discs would have a bit more power (I have only used cable disc brakes) but at some point you are hitting the traction limit of the tires and well maintained rim brakes should be able to do that in dry conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, aero bars are considered unsafe due to the lack of fine control. Many riders drift in the aero position and tend to have slower response times. I have seen so many calamities over the years with people misapplying aero bars to regular riding (e.g., slow train track crossing!) I think most would be best to leave them at home unless on a dedicated TT course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T17:46:25.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-28T22:52:58.733" Score="3" ViewCount="3150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old two-seater recumbent trike with coaster brakes. One of the rear hubs rumbles terribly when the bike is coasting. When the brake is on, or when pedaling, it doesn't make a noise. I assume it's some bearing giving out, but it just had all the bearings replaced not long ago. Also, it's impossible to tighten up without making at least a slight grumble, so the wheel is slightly loose on the hub.  What to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know that I have the wherewithal to just replace the wheel... it's a bicycle hub with thick motorcycle spokes and rim and motorcycle tires. 20&quot;. I'd likely have to have a custom wheel built from scratch, plus find someone to cut small spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13173" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T21:49:44.963" Title="Why does coaster brake hub growl when coasting but not when braking or pedaling?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22916" CreationDate="2014-07-29T01:12:46.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been researching the same thing. Even built my own tool of sorts by drilling two holes through a wrench and inserting drill bits to act as pegs. The wrench is about 6&quot; long and there's no hope in hell either of the &quot;washers&quot; are going to come off. My experiment didn't mess up the holes but I'd say there's a good reason for 6 pins on the Mavic 670 key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@unworthy1 has a better answer to this question &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/807881-replacement-axle-mavic-hub.html#post15064912&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the washers have a fine thread and screw off. Since @unworthy1 didn't mention the direction of the threads I would assume that means they're standard counter-clockwise. @unworthy1 gives advice on how to free them, and later on says the 6-pin 670 is the only tool for the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's pretty safe to assume aluminum corrosion is on the outer parts of the threads binding it up and some kind of anti-seize lube is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT ----&#xA;Oh, if anyone is ever lucky enough to get the washers off, the bearing is a standard 6001. I've been looking into the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skf.com/binary/49-31950/6860_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SKF e26001/zz-c3 E2 deep groove ball bearings&lt;/a&gt;. You don't need E2 bearings, but make sure they're deep groove to handle the side loads on the hub from cornering. Especially if you do fast downhill switchbacks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT ----&#xA;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/unsticking-aluminum-threads-76880/#post53298&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this advice&lt;/a&gt; on a machinist's forum by @Patch. In a nutshell, place the wrench on under light tension, tap it with a small hammer, reverse the tension, tap again, and repeat. Of course, that may only work with the Mavic 670...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend sodium hydroxide or heat as suggested later in that page if your bearings are in any kind of serviceable condition. That way if the washers still won't come off you can use the wheel. Heat will just melt the grease and I'm pretty sure you don't want to leave NaOH anywhere inside your hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12788" LastEditorUserId="12788" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T00:42:20.757" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T00:42:20.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23941" CreationDate="2014-07-29T01:45:48.940" Score="2" ViewCount="6111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed the rear tire and paid no attention to the original working state of the rear derailleur. After a miserable attempt at resembling, I lost what I now think was the Derailleur bolt and nut (one flat side, curved elsewhere) during a short ride. It's since been replaced with whatever nut and screw I could find laying around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the first attempt (with all the original parts still available) at reattaching the wheel, after a hard pedel, especially uphill, the wheel will move from centered. The tire rubs against the frame creating enough resistance to make pedaling feel impossible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear dropout has a small screw hole and a large triangle cutout. I cannot find a configuration that allows the derailleur to screw into the small hole, and so am fastening it using the larger triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the placement of the derailleur the problem? Do I just need to turn the nuts holding the axle on a little harder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after the axle has slipped down:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEQbE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;derailleur position&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I17WM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;worn nut&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LmwTr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rubbing against the wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13130" LastEditorUserId="13130" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T15:14:13.703" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T15:51:36.760" Title="Rear wheel rubs frame after tire change" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23927" CreationDate="2014-07-29T02:06:01.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That configuration is quite dangerous and clearly wrong. Do not ride the bike like that. Do not just tighten the nuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can clearly see the outline of where the derailleur was previously mounted. The derailleur should be mounted in a similar position. The small screw hole is a mount point for a carrier, which is probably why you cannot get things back how they were - it should be clear of obstruction when the wheel/derailleur are assembled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The axle must sit fully within the drop-outs of the frame. Once the axle is done up properly it will hold the derailluer, the small screw is really a locating screw and used to hold the deraulleur when the wheel is removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undo the right side nut fully, and install the wheel using the left nut to hold it reasonably firmly. Use the marks on the frame to guide you to axle location and center the wheel rim on the brakes/frame. From there, the derailluer should be able to be slotted in and the right hand nut tightened.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T02:06:01.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7992" CreationDate="2014-07-29T02:17:18.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to add another option to the answer. The most cost effective way to improve a bicycle is sell it and buy a better bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is almost always a better option for all bikes, from cheap to expensive, except custom builds. As a rule a bicycle is worth a lot less than the cost of its parts. Unless you can get parts for significantly less than normal prices, upgrading the entire bike is more cost effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a particular desire to keep the bike and upgrade it, often the most cost effective upgrade is a donor bike, unfortunately this requires a large outlay up front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most expensive way to upgrade a bike is piece by piece as you can afford it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T02:17:18.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23932" CreationDate="2014-07-29T03:10:06.077" Score="2" ViewCount="2183" Body="&lt;p&gt;In almost all cases where hubs are regularly serviced, bearings don't need to be replaced. The general consensus though is to replace bearings after so many thousands of kms. Many posts on the web say a grade 25 bearing is fine to use in a hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Campagnolo Record hub with loose bearings (not in retainers). The races and cones are fine and yet the wheel drags slightly at points. Backing off the tension leaves the hub very slightly loose and mostly solves the courseness of the hub. This is what I expect with normal wheels, but not a Record. Why should my Record hub need some slack when the races are precision ground and hardened, and Campagnolo selects bearings to within &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campyonly.com/history/catalogs/1982_olympic_catalog.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;page 19, 2106 bearing set&quot;&gt;1 micron&lt;/a&gt;, or about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_(bearing)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;wiki article on ball bearings&quot;&gt;grade 25&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did the other people who serviced this hub in the past use just any general bearing? New bearings have been introduced by many bearing manufacturers as high efficiency, where they select bearings to within &lt;a href=&quot;http://powerelectronics.com/electromechanical/squeezing-more-efficiency-anti-friction-bearings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;under the bearing geometry chapter&quot;&gt;1 micron&lt;/a&gt;. But, in a bicycle hub, it's not so much a matter of efficiency. It's about smoothness and road feel, and loose-ish hubs just don't deliver that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the answer to my problem now is to either buy a 9+9 set of matched Campagnolo hub bearings or to buy grade 3 Si3N4 ceramic bearings which are manufactured from the same lot. Even better would be if I could size my own bearings to within 1 micron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions or ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT --------&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify. When I talk about drag from this hub, I mean when I spin the wheel and rest the axles on my index fingers I can feel and see some movement. On the other hand with a Mavic 500 with sealed cartridge bearings I can lightly tension the bearings and feel no movement when spinning the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With either wheel mounted on the bike there's no play (without load). So, when I say I backed off the tension of the Record hub it's not something you would normally notice in a setup for a bike, but I've found in riding I prefer my hubs set a little tight. Maybe it's because I tour and carry an extra load on the rear. I tend to push my cornering hard on downhill switchbacks and I find tighter hubs give me more of a sense of hugging the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12788" LastEditorUserId="12788" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T23:55:42.330" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T23:55:42.330" Title="Why is it important to keep bearing sets when greasing a campagnolo hub?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;performance&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23892" CreationDate="2014-07-29T03:35:19.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the simple answer is that aerobars aren't very helpful unless you are riding at reasonable speed (say, &gt;18MPH or so), but most people who ride at that speed would prefer to ride in a paceline, which gives more benefit than aerobars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aerobars are unsafe in pacelines because riders cannot maneuver as well as being on the drop bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T03:35:19.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23930" CreationDate="2014-07-29T11:36:49.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In almost all cases when servicing a hub the bearing DO need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not be able to see it without the aid of a microscope, but the bearings will be slightly pitted after any appreciable period of use. As one user points out, high grade ballbearings in case hardened steel, even grade 25s are very cheap - why cut the corner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case hardened are preferred as they are less brittle, BTW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that in correct bearing design, as it's difficult to get an exactly consistent rate of wear on the three components, you will generally find that the balls (being the cheapest and easiest to replace part in the assembly) will wear first. Then the cones. Last will be the internal bearing surfaces (in the case of the hub) as these are the most difficult to replace. Cones and cup wear rates may be the other way around if the cone is integrated with another component or part of the assembly that is difficult to access or change - not normally the case in any conventional cycle application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastEditorUserId="3186" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T12:28:32.903" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T12:28:32.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13505" CreationDate="2014-07-29T13:23:04.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched to mini-v brakes, then to cantis. The mini-v brakes worked well, but I had a few issues. Here's what I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do mini v-brakes have to sit closer to the rim? Will this cause me to&#xA;  slow down more when my wheel goes through an inch or two of mud?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the mini-v brakes pads sat closer to the rim in resting position, and since my rim was a bit out of true, they rubbed a lot. If I set them loose enough not to rub, I didn't have enough braking power. Switching to cantilevers set the pads further away from the rim and had no problem with rubbing on the brake pads. Mini-v brakes also did gather mud around the brake pads a bit more than the cantilevers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are the mini v-brakes going to be as effective at stopping? Will the&#xA;  modulation be poor, causing me to OTB more often when I try to stop&#xA;  suddenly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't notice a lot of difference in modulation between the mini-v brakes and cantilever brakes. I feel like the mini-v had a bit more power and could lock the rear wheel more easily, but I never felt that I couldn't feather the brakes in a similar fashion to my canti brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a large difference in tire clearance between mini v-brakes&#xA;  and cantilever brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is much more clearance with cantilever brakes for both tires and mud.  I swapped in 700x41c tires and I had to remove the boot from the brake cable on the mini-v brakes because it would occasionally rub on the tire.  I have a lot more mud clearance using the cantilever brakes, probably at least an inch above the tire, where I had only a few millimeters using mini-v brakes. Regular v-brakes would probably have about the same mud clearance as the cantis, but don't work well with the cable pull from STI shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T13:23:04.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23935" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-29T14:14:37.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Truing a wheel is the procedure to realign a bent wheel by tightening or loosening the spokes until the right balance is achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truing might be needed after the wheel got bent because of a bump, or because one or more of the spokes got replaced, and must be adjusted to fit the rest. Also, truing can be a temporary fix when a spoke breaks and compensation is needed to keep the wheel acceptably straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truing requires a specific wrench of the shape and size of the nipples, and is best performed using a truing stand. It typically consist (in its basic form) in tightening by 1/4 to 1/2 turn the spokes on the opposite - laterally speaking -  side of the bend) and loosening the ones on the side of the bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3374" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T16:20:36.603" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T16:20:36.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23936" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-29T14:14:37.013" Score="0" Body="The procedure to align the wheel by tightening and/or loosening the spokes" OwnerUserId="3374" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T16:20:02.737" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T16:20:02.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23732" CreationDate="2014-07-29T14:59:51.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure he understands the power of the front brake - you can demonstrate this by passing at a constant speed and hitting one of the breaks at a constant pull force - the rear will skid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This one helped me a lot with my riding. Show him how easy it is do do an &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abw6DZI5G3Q/maxresdefault.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;endo&lt;/a&gt;. On a grassy field the risk is zero, the time to learn to get up on the front wheel (and hold there for a nanosecond) is maybe one hour of trying, and the learnt coordination skill is priceless. One learns at what exactly point the lifting of the rear wheel transfers into a fall.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure he rides in a correct position. Being scared of over-the-bars, I can imagine him riding over his rear wheel, hands straight. This is detrimental for cornering, which in term can lead to poor confidence when braking. Furthermore, with no weight on the front wheel, front braking could easily cause front wheel skid. Yet another peril of this posture is the lack of suspension action from the locked-in-the-elbows arms.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T14:59:51.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23940" CreationDate="2014-07-29T17:33:59.400" Score="4" ViewCount="2568" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has a square taper 68mm width cup and cone bottom bracket that is wearing out. I was hoping to replace it with a sealed cartridge (shimano UN55 or similar) but then I found that the spindle length isn't the same on each side - the right spindle end is 4mm or so further from the centre than the left. I think that modern cartridges are symmetrical, so the two ends are the same distance from the centre. Is it possible to mount a 68mm symmetrical cartridge slightly off-centre using a spacer? If I put a 2mm spacer on the drive side then the new (symmetrical) cartridge would be the same as the old (asymmetrical) cup and cone. But I'm a bit worried that a) there wouldn't be enough screw threads engaged on the drive side or b) the non-drive cup won't screw far enough into the frame to hold the cartridge steady. Has anyone tried this? Does it work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5142" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:10:33.887" Title="Replace asymmetrical BB with symmetrical cartridge and spacers?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23938" CreationDate="2014-07-29T19:25:10.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Phil Wood make a sealed cartridge BB that can be shuffled 3~4mm off centre in either direction. I use one myself; the thread engagement is pretty solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see no reason why your spacer idea would be any different, in terms of reliability - try it! As long as you have at least 5 mm of threads fully engaged, and the BB and adjustable &quot;cup&quot; are torqued up against one another nice and tight, it should be OK. But if it's a frame you care about, I'd pony up for the Phil... at least then any thread damage to the BB shell would be a warranty issue, as long as you could demonstrate that you'd installed it in accordance with their guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different threadings, tapers and spindle lengths are available; make sure you pick the right one if you decide to buy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need to buy the tools to fit it (it's non-standard). The cups are stainless steel, so you'll need to use thread lock instead of grease when installing. Pricey but highly recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T19:51:33.347" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T19:51:33.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23938" CreationDate="2014-07-29T19:48:43.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In principle it is doable. Normally sealed BB have 15 to 20 mm of thread at each side, so 4 millimetres of spacer wont make trouble regarding how deep the shell will thread in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding symmetry, it is even a possibility that you don't really need to install the spacer, because what defines this is the chainline, that is, on a single speed bike, the front chainring should align perfectly with the rear sprocket. On a triple chainring setup with multiple gears in the rear, the thing gets a bit more fuzzy, but (I) roughly watch for the middle chainring being aligned with the centre-most sprocket. I mention this because some cup and cone systems have huge tolerance and can be off axis without any apparent trouble, and in your case, it is a possibility that the spindle is just 2mm off to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second factor is whether the cranks rub or collide with the chainstays. Both arms should pass by at roughly the same distance from the chainstays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, before deciding whether you need a spacer (and if you haven't disassembled the bike yet) check the chainline and the distance from the cranks to the chainstays, and see if you can detect any misalignment there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that there are some BB units that don't have a &quot;lip&quot; un the threaded side and therefore a spacer is not actually needed, they are locked in place just by the pressure from the locking cup on the other side, this type of BB can be set off to a side without a spacer (there is actually no way of installing a spacer). Other BBs actually have this lip to hold certain type of front derrailleur in place. In this case the spacer is optional, it is used just to fill up the space left by the absence of the derrailleur's mount ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definitive yes/no compatibility issue is whether the theading on the bb shell is the same. Most sealed BB units I've seen have normal right hand threading on one side and left hand threading on the other. As long as your current cup and cone system is the same in this regard, you should be able to do the upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final factor that may come in is the taper on the spindle. If by any chance the one you have is thinner or thicker than the replacement sealed unit, the crankset may &quot;sink&quot; in deeper or not deep enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are going to do an upgrade, not a direct replacement, I advise to take the bike to a shop and compare (using a caliper if possible) your actual spindle to the one on the sealed unit you plan to install, just to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:10:33.887" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:10:33.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23927" CreationDate="2014-07-29T20:07:43.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've lost the derailleur hanger mounting nut. Don't worry, they're dead cheap. Without it the hanger won't stay in place without the wheel nuts done up tight. You can get away without one (see matt's answer), but it's not ideal. It's better and less fiddly to use a proper mounting nut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oWzA7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Derailleur hanger mounting nut&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V2gJy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way you've set it up now is totally wrong - the triangle-shaped hole is just a cutout in the rear dropout - it isn't designed to have anything mounted to it. I presume the other hole of which you speak is a mudguard or rack mounting eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T15:51:36.760" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T15:51:36.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23334" CreationDate="2014-07-29T21:29:45.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit unconventional, but stay with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the shoes and place them in a plastic bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove as much air as you can from the bag and seal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the bagged shoes in to the freezer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave the shoes in the freezer at least overnight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I based this on the idea that the cold temps of the freezer would kill most of the odor causing bacteria and it worked the times I've tried it, but your milage may very.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1552" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T21:29:45.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23946" CreationDate="2014-07-29T22:20:37.197" Score="29" ViewCount="6929" Body="&lt;p&gt;The scenario: you're riding in a curb-adjacent, paint-only bike lane. You happen to look over your shoulder (or in your mirror) and see a vehicle approaching from behind, either fully in the bike lane, or close enough that they can't safely pass. Assume that veering to the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; of the approaching vehicle's path (away from the curb) is not an option, and that there is no time to slow and dismount onto the sidewalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any technique which can be used here to quickly lift the bike both up and to the side, while traveling at speed, such that you could safely continue your ride on the raised sidewalk until the danger has passed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers that do not require suspension would be ideal, and it would be especially helpful (though improbable) to find a technique that can also be used while carrying reasonably-weighted (~10 pounds) panniers on a rear rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12975" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T07:00:37.317" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T07:00:37.317" Title="Is there a way to hop up onto a parallel curb?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23334" CreationDate="2014-07-29T22:28:44.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dettol Liquid contains Chloroxylenol. It kills bacteria and provides protection against germs which can cause infection and illness. Dettol kills 99.9% of bacteria, such as E.coli and Influenza virus (H1N1). Always read the label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Serious, the smell is caused by bacteria and your mission is to kill them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put hot water, plenty of Dettol and your bacteria/shoes in a bucket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it soak for one night.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rinse and dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy the new smell!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10337" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T22:28:44.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23944" CreationDate="2014-07-29T23:00:30.370" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're talking about a &quot;bunny hop&quot; and it can be done at speed on a loaded bike but it's high risk. You'd almost certainly be better off jumping off the bike and rolling. &lt;a href=&quot;http://biketrials.com/intro/dictionary.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;US Bike Trials&lt;/a&gt; call it a &quot;side hop&quot;, but in anglonesia I've mostly heard it called a bunny hop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moz.net.nz/photo/2006/10/21-messengers/messenger-champs-112.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2006 Cycle Messenger World Champion&lt;/a&gt; doing more or less that at about 30kph, but wearing a backpack rather than panniers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MfSnb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bunnyhop curb at speed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that at the world championships for people who ride loaded bikes fast all day about 3/4 of the competitors slowed down and used the pram ramp or just stepped up the curb (my photos are of the ones who took the more exciting approach, obviously). In this case they rode along the road, then had to go onto the footpath and turn very slightly onto a path, so slowing down to use the ramp definitely cost them time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're expecting to do this, IMO you're better off learning to dive roll properly. Either through a martial art like aikido or ninjitsu, or through gymnastics. That skill will help you in a much wider range of situations than &quot;if I have a couple of seconds to get organised I can bunny hop&quot;. Also, the most likely result of trying this is that you end up hitting the curb with the bike, then the pavement with your body. So rolling will be useful either way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, it took a slightly disturbing number of crashes in my late youth before I was seriously injured, largely due to my ability to roll (loosely speaking, via martial arts training). And when I did eventually break my humerus it was because a roll failed. Even now, I've been riding everywhere for 30-odd years and still my major injuries have all occurred through both my own stupid fault and in effectively single vehicle accidents. The &quot;hit by car&quot; ones have all involved a bit of flying through the air, a roll then a lot of very politely explaining to the motorist that I would like them to give me their insurance details. Now. THANK YOU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I can do a hop like the one shown, on my commuter bike, with panniers, but only with careful preparation and a 90° approach. Jurgen's flying leap approach is not one that I'd try if there was any way to avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T23:37:43.987" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T23:37:43.987" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23914" CreationDate="2014-07-29T23:16:04.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the brute force method and may be applied if you desperately need a quick fix. E.g. you're in the middle of nowhere, the wheel won't spin at all and it starts raining... You're planning on replacing the wheel completely, but first want to get home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technique is much like breaking a stick with two hands and a knee:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Put your bike upside down.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Stand at the side the twist points to.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. Grab the wheel at the start/end points of the twist (folds).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4. Put one knee against the rim, in the middle between the folds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5. Pull your hands back, pushing your knee out. Undoing the twist.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;6. Try to spin the wheel. If it doesn't spin, start over at point 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10337" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T01:49:24.423" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:49:24.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2014-07-29T23:18:27.617" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;On the original question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As requested by the OP original question, the &lt;strong&gt;downsides&lt;/strong&gt; of a road bike include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Road bikes typically have tire widths that are not oriented towards getting to work with extra items on your bike, comfortably and with minimal distraction. Depending on what the route is like, narrow tires are bad for commuting because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Narrow tires require more of your attention on choosing a good &quot;line&quot; &lt;em&gt;(the specific desired path in the next several meters based on conditions of the route and surrounding, e.g. &quot;ride a few cm to the left of the puddle ahead&quot;.)&lt;/em&gt;. The more time and energy and visual processing used for choosing your line, means you can't look around (for traffic safety) as much. &#xA;This distraction is because (among other things) narrower tires: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;are more prone to punctures from hitting items or bumps. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;have greater tendency to get caught or slip in edges, grooves, joints, or grating parallel to direction of travel, and &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;transmit more road bumps and vibration to the rider. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Narrow tires are not as comfortable for 10km. Fatter tires act as shock and vibration absorbers for yourself and your cargo (laptop?), allowing you to be less picky about choosing a smooth line. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It also means you are less confident or safe when &quot;forced&quot; into a line or terrain that is not ideal, such as when heavy traffic does not allow you to swerve around a bad patch of road. &#xA;And more, looser weight (clothing, cargo) means you aren't as nimble as a racer, which makes it even more difficult to avoid bad terrain as a commuter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For performance-oriented road bikes, there are fewer attachment holes for racks, fenders/mudguards, etc. Also there is less clearance for mudguards and/or more comfortable tire sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hunched / horizontal torso posture on road bikes makes it more difficult to look around or behind as easily as more upright riding postures. This affects safety in high traffic areas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Due to the hunched-down posture on road bikes, shoulder bag / &quot;messenger bags&quot; swing down to your front, which then become an unstable pendulum that swings around as you ride. Even when a bag is around your back, there is a constant distraction of feeling like it is about to swing or of needing to elbow it back (which may mean removing a hand from the handlebars). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some suggestions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's certainly possible to commute with a road bike. And you can work around or master the above issues with extra time in practice, additional hardware, new techniques.  And note that almost any bike is going to get you 10km pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these reasons above, I suggest following the other responders' suggestions on avoiding &lt;em&gt;performance&lt;/em&gt;- or &lt;em&gt;race&lt;/em&gt;- oriented road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Urban&quot; / &quot;City&quot; / &quot;Commuter&quot;, or even &quot;Dutch&quot; bikes. These categories of bikes have broadened and improved in recent years due to the growth of the number of people such as yourself looking to commute but not race.  They tend to be more upright than road bikes, and either have or can accommodate fenders and racks. E.g. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lbBoj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Non-suspension &quot;hybrid&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Fitness&quot; or &quot;Flat handlebar&quot; road/hybrid bike. E.g. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tEMRC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Mountain&quot; bike (without suspension), fitted with &quot;slick&quot; or &quot;street&quot; or &quot;commuter&quot; tires. A very common commuter solution. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Google Image search for any of the above terms along with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?site=&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;source=hp&amp;amp;biw=1855&amp;amp;bih=1115&amp;amp;q=commuter+bike&amp;amp;oq=commuter+bike&amp;amp;gs_l=img.3..0l10.608.1908.0.2004.13.12.0.1.1.0.104.901.10j2.12.0....0...1ac.1.49.img..0.13.902.4tZlfROMn6Q&amp;amp;gws_rd=ssl&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;commuter bike&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and you'll get a gist of what seems to work well for people. E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=mountain+bike+commuter&amp;amp;client=ubuntu-browser&amp;amp;es_sm=93&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=oCrYU7HoAqTAigKa6IGICQ&amp;amp;ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&amp;amp;biw=1855&amp;amp;bih=1115&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;mountain bike commuter&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Yikes!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uRRFX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T23:18:27.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-29T23:32:50.377" Score="0" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to road biking and struggling to set up my cycle computer on my Triban 500 SE.. Manufacturing Info about bike here :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-500-se-road-bike-black-id_8306187.html#anchor_ComponentProductTechnicalInformation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-500-se-road-bike-black-id_8306187.html#anchor_ComponentProductTechnicalInformation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To confirm they are 650 tyres which are 23mm wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about wheel circumference which I need to be converted into mm. Does anybody know or understand how to work this out?...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note : I am almost positive this is a very noob question.. However, saying that there is little information about this on the web so an answer that explains how they got to it would be appreciated and would definitely help future newbies! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13191" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T00:33:53.793" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T00:33:53.793" Title="How Big is my Wheel Circumference?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-07-30T01:38:13.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37877" CreationDate="2014-07-30T00:10:59.613" Score="5" ViewCount="2712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that my rear derailleur (Ultegra 6700) will not return to where I've set the B-tension adjustment. Pulling it away from the hanger means it will just stick there, or maybe move back a little bit. Comparing to other bikes with Shimano rear derailleurs, mine seems to be odd one out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It mostly causes annoyance when removing the rear wheel -- I have to push the derailleur back &quot;in&quot; afterwards, instead of relying on it just naturally going back to the correct position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13192" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T23:32:58.133" Title="How can I fix my rear derailleur's B-tension adjustment?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23944" CreationDate="2014-07-30T01:36:57.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easy part being the initial front wheel clearance of the curb. If you can then turn your front wheel further into the sidewalk as you land it and unweight the back of the bike, (easier still if you are clipped in, as you can pull the back up with your legs), the effect is almost that of hopping the kerb at an less than  90 degree angle. Occasionally the back may not clear but the initial steer deeper into the sidewalk, reduces the likelihood of a straight dump to the floor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13194" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T01:36:57.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23944" CreationDate="2014-07-30T01:56:07.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First how is the bike set up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;25mm tires versus 32m (or bigger) is different.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clip versus clip-less is confusing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are you snapped in like a SPD?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few hops&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight hop&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pretty much need to be snapped in then lower you body and jump and pull up on pedals and bars.  This is great for hopping up curbs but you need to be pointed at the curb.  And you need to have enough speed that both wheels clear the curb.  In an emergency if you see them in the mirror you don't have time to point the whole bike into the curb.  If you were really good you could hop up and to the side. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What I call a two stage bunny&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You hop the front wheel and then after the front wheel lands you hop the rear.  Pull up on the bars to raise the front wheel and when you land lean forward and pull the rear.  Easier if you are snapped in.  Not snapped in I like pedals at like 4 and 10 to push into them to pull up the rear end.  This is your most likely see them in the mirror scenario.  Get the front wheel over - this will get your body over the curb.  Hopefully hop the rear.  Even if you don't hop the rear you bang the rear wheel and stay up or bang the rear and crash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Real bunny&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not what you would use in a I see them in mirror. You pull up the front with knees still bent and when you get the rear wheel under you hop. This is how you get distance / height.  It is hard as if you push off too soon the nose dives.  And if you hop too late you go out the back. Practice on a soft surface with a helmet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video describe the two stage bunny hop. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBTK0UwwQ4I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BunnyLikePro&lt;/a&gt;  But what he does at 15 seconds is a real bunny.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T15:50:56.447" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T15:50:56.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-30T02:53:55.903" Score="7" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have about a 2 mm gash around the outside of my tire from a piece of brown glass. It gave me a slow leak and while I've patched the tube, do I need to do anything about the tire itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SGQx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Punctured tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6561" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T23:13:03.990" Title="Do I need to patch my tubed-tire if I have a puncture?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23953" CreationDate="2014-07-30T03:22:38.343" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think thats small enough that I probably wouldn't worry about it too much, but you can fill it in with a dab of super glue or sealants for rubber (like shoe goo) for peace of mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could boot it (a nice boot is the Park Tool TB-2), but I think this is likely too much work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T03:22:38.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23944" CreationDate="2014-07-30T04:10:21.347" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes, there is a way to do it. I fully support &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/23946/8273&quot;&gt;Mσᶎ's answer&lt;/a&gt; and have more to say than will fit in comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, regarding the original premise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You happen to look over your shoulder (or in your mirror) and see a vehicle approaching from behind, either fully in the bike lane, or close enough that they can't safely pass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm riding a bike in a bike lane, the only time I would even consider getting out of the way of a vehicle approaching from behind is for an emergency vehicle with lights and sirens. Everybody else just has to wait. They chose to drive in the bike lane, so that's the way it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caveat is in the words &lt;em&gt;consider&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;safely&lt;/em&gt;. When safety is stake, there is no time to &lt;em&gt;consider&lt;/em&gt;. Just get out of way. Anyhow you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But regarding bunny hops (edit: talking here about road bikes, at speed; thanks to @JamesF for pointing out the difference)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They are a skill, and so can be learned.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They are a skill, and to be available on call they have to be practiced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your feet must be attached to the pedals. You can bet the messenger in Mσᶎ's answer is using SPD pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If using drop bars, learn to bunny hop with your hands on the tops or hoods, and with both hands in the same position on each side. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On a road bike (almost) the only way of jumping is to get your body mass moving upward. The basic way of doing this is to crouch lower on the bike, then spring up. If you're holding on with your hands and your feet are attached then the bike will follow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First thing to practice is landing straight. That really means being straight on take-off and staying straight for landing. The essential thing is that your front wheel is pointing in the direction of travel on landing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's now time to start jumping small obstacles, like twigs and small bumps / cracks in the pavement. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second thing is to get equal elevation with both wheels. Since you need to have your head up, you cannot look down to check this. If your wheels are uneven you will know because one will land first. Usually it's the back one. As you gradually jump larger objects, you could also feel one wheel touch, again, it's usually the back one. This is caused by pulling up on the handlebars too much; concentrate on pulling the bike up with your legs. Just a little. In Mσᶎ's picture you can see the rider is at full upward extension and can now pull the back wheel higher.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now it's time to work on height. This is mostly a matter of coordination and timing, rather than huge effort. Certainly it take more effort to jump higher, but concentrate on the coordination. Crouch and jump. Crouch and jump higher. Rhythm. You should be easily jumping 15cm (6in) high in a day or two. That's enough to get you over most obstacles, but not up many kerbs. You'll need at least 20cm (8in) for that. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And now aim for distance. Distance is a function of speed and time in the air. Time in the air is determined by height. By my math, if you can jump 15cm then you are in the air for about a quarter of a second. At 20kph (12mph), you are covering about 5.5 meters per second. So you can jump about 1.4m (56 inches). That's only about 40cm (16 inches) more than your bike's wheel base, but it's enough to jump small objects. For things like man-hole covers you need to get more air and/or go faster.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's how to do basic bunny hops. You need a moment to prepare (crouch, get hands in position) before you hop. So it's not something to do in an emergency, unless you happen to be already in position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you asked for was a hop sideways up the kerb. There are two ways to do this; the guy in the photo is riding at an angle to the kerb, and is just jumping in a straight line. Easy if you are super confident of your skills. Disaster if you catch your front wheel on the kerb. The other way is to jump sideways. You can learn to do that too, but this post is already getting too long. I saw a guy in the TDF do it once on a descent when he ran wide on a corner. One way to learn is to start by doing a track-stand and hopping sideways. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/23966/8273&quot;&gt;Jimirings' answer&lt;/a&gt; for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T22:53:55.240" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23953" CreationDate="2014-07-30T06:20:48.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends. If the threads on the inside of the tyre are not damaged, only check for any left-over glass debris in the gash and leave as-is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, either ditch the tyre or boot it from the inside, like @Batman suggested already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T06:20:48.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4768" CreationDate="2014-07-30T06:54:43.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Re: Using a spacer and grinding down the 3 pins that hold the cassette together:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be simpler to grind 3 notches in the spacer itself, which preserves the original cassette strength. That can easily be done with a rat-tail file or power tool. I find it dubious that those pins simply exist for convenience, which seems like Internet bro-science that lacks engineering context. Some people even suggest removing the pins altogether. Why do a ghetto hack when you can file down a cheap spacer by about 2mm instead? There is enough metal left in the spacer to maintain its strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13200" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T09:53:00.927" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T09:53:00.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23944" CreationDate="2014-07-30T08:03:51.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was younger I was able to do it by jumping up with the front wheel, and then letting the back wheel &quot;slide&quot; diagonally whilst going further in with the front wheel. This made the angle of approach increase and eventually it would climb up when about 45 degrees or so. I suppose that it is not good for the health of the tire/wheel, but it worked and did not feel that dangerous. (Sometimes it just lead to a stop, when not able to climb with the back wheel, since the friction was high). I also combined it with what @Blam calls the two stage bunny. So decreasing pressure on the back by tilting forward, and jumping with the back. (This was done with a bike without pedal clips)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13201" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T08:03:51.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23962" CreationDate="2014-07-30T09:11:16.420" Score="7" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/23946/8273&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/7044/m%CF%83%E1%B6%8E&quot;&gt;Mσᶎ&lt;/a&gt; mentioned a bunny hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agreed, and wrote about &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/23955/8273&quot;&gt;How to Bunny Hop&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it soon became clear that different people have slightly different definitions of a bunny hop. For example, Blam &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/23952/8273&quot;&gt;talks about different bunny hops&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/8254/8273&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; links to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/bike-blog/video/2011/feb/21/danny-macaskill-video&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Danny MacAskill video&lt;/a&gt; showing bunny hops, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9338/8273&quot;&gt;this BillyNair answer&lt;/a&gt; describes similar bunny hops. Most of them are different to what I described - at speed, clipped in, both wheels of the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where did I get my definition from? Err, that would be 40 (or is it 50?) years ago, before BMX was heard of, when a bunch of us kids would do whatever came to mind on our road bikes. We did the normal stupid stuff kids do: jumps, jousting, riding down stairs, along the top of fences, picking up stuff, yadda yadda, etc, etc. We called getting both wheels off the ground at speed without the help of a ramp, a bunny hop. Everyone else seemed to call it the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I look forward to hearing about the different jumps you do, on what bike, and what they're called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to add a definition to our &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/244/8273&quot;&gt;Terminology index&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T02:18:45.723" Title="Definition of a bunny hop" Tags="&lt;tricks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23961" CreationDate="2014-07-30T09:37:44.903" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see that the definition of a bunny hop is subject to the kind of cycling we're talking about. I doubt you'll find a specific definition that everyone will agree with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what's common with (almost) everyone's concept of a bunny hop is that the front wheel elevates first and and the rear follows — just like a bunny hops — front paws first. Whether you and your bike are airborne due to clip pedals, upward pull from the handlebar or black magic, doesn't matter in my opinnion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where my definition came from? 20 years of BMX, urban and dirt biking, occasional downhill and aggressive trails. Last 5 years mostly just commuting with a cyclocross. Still feels good to bunny hop over curbs and branches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T09:37:44.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2014-07-30T11:51:23.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As seen from earlier answers, there is a great deal of variability in the design of both road and hybrid bikes, such that the definitions overlap quite a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perhaps the most common difference is that &quot;road&quot; bikes typically have drop handlebars and &quot;hybrid&quot; bikes typically have flat bars&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So maybe the question boils down to which bar style is better for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A flat bar&lt;/strong&gt; (with a wider grip) has the following advantages relevant to commuting:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More accurate control at low speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better visibility (by me and of me) due to upright position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier one-handed control for signalling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the downside the wider bar is occasionally awkward to fit through gaps in queueing traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some advantages of a &lt;strong&gt;drop bar&lt;/strong&gt;:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better aerodynamics due to narrower hand placement and especially when in the drops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple hand positions for improved comfort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are less important on a relatively short and slow urban commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have both a drop-bar bike and a flat-bar bike. Although the drop-bar bike is faster and more comfortable than the flat bar hybrid and overall does more distance in a year, I prefer the hybrid for commuting across town. A large part of the reason I choose the hybrid for commuting is the bar style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T11:51:23.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23927" CreationDate="2014-07-30T14:40:44.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with an old steel-frame bike that I &quot;rescued.&quot; It had sliding dropouts so that the wheel could essentially be positioned forward or rearward as needed. What would happen is that the nut would come loose and one side of the axle would slide forward in the dropout causing the rub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution: A small lock washer or nut on the other side of the dropout and cranking the nut really tight. That worked, although it made wheel removal kind of a pain. I ended up selling the bike before I found a better, more permanent solution though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T14:40:44.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23944" CreationDate="2014-07-30T15:09:44.393" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;trick&quot; you're looking for is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8UgJndrJq0&quot;&gt;side hop&lt;/a&gt;. It's really a variation on a bunny hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you perform a standard &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bunny_hop_(cycling)&quot;&gt;bunny hop&lt;/a&gt; but when the handlebars and front wheel reach their zenith, you pull the front end over the obstacle while pushing them forward. The forward motion pulls the rear wheel up, as with a standard bunny hop. However, you additionally use your hips and legs to push the rear of the bike over the curb as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video I linked to above gives a good example. The one quibble I have is that he says that it's easier to jump away the side of your forward facing foot. I find the opposite to be true. I find that my rear foot gives me more leverage to push the rear wheel over the obstacle. But really, I can do them both ways. I can just do them higher and farther in my preferred direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side hops are typically done from a trackstand rather than in motion. This is because they are mostly used for trials and executing the trick from a standstill offers more precision and control. Practice from a standstill. Once you get relatively good at it, try doing it while rolling slowly. Then gradually increase speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When starting out, practice on flat ground that has some sort of marking on it, e.g., painted lines, different color bricks, chalk lines, whatever. From a trackstand, try to hop from a few inches to the side of the marking onto it. Once you can do that confidently, try hopping from the same starting position, but over the marking. Then try from farther away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got that down, add some height in. Stairs are a good place to practice. Once you can hop onto a single stair, find a wide stairway and try to hop all the way to the top of it. If you have to put a foot down, make sure to do it on the higher step. You won't be able to reach the lower step and could tumble down the stairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you're ready to start trying to do it rolling. Go back to your flat ground with markings on it. You'll find that you can't side hop as high or far while rolling. At least, not initially. I can't explain why it's different, but it definitely is. You'll get a feel for it much more quickly though and soon you'll be ready to tackle curbs. Do so slowly at first. You'll probably catch your rear wheel and come to a skidding halt a few times. Once you get it, go faster and faster until it's second nature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice each step in both directions. If you get good at going one direction first, it will be more frustrating to learn to go the other way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this with a backpack on is nothing. Doing it with a weighted rear end (i.e., panniers) is a whole different ball game. While it may be possible, it would certainly not be easy. You simply don't have the same leverage with the weight on the rear. I would also worry that the jarring of the panniers and rack would ultimately damage them. Racks are not designed to withstand a lot of lateral force. Pannier hooks are also not typically designed for impact forces. If you find yourself having to do this often, you might have to resign yourself to riding with a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T15:09:44.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23334" CreationDate="2014-07-30T16:36:52.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by replacing the insoles.  Typically this is what smells the most in old bike shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that you can also clean the shoe itself following any one of the many suggested methods outlined in this thread.  But be sure to remove you nice new insoles first before cleaning the shoe itself.  Also try to thoroughly dry the shoe as fast as possible, leaving the shoe damp for prolonged period will encourage growth of bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T16:36:52.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2014-07-30T17:05:46.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a single-speed or fixed-gear bike: Loosen the back wheel pull the tire back into the dropouts,tighten wheel - whaala.. tightened your chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a temporary fix, you will eventually need to replace your loose chain or your entire drivechain due to wear.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13211" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T20:30:20.407" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T20:30:20.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-30T17:33:53.227" Score="4" ViewCount="2018" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got back from a bike ride and noticed a small tear on the sidewall of my tire. I'm wondering if I can just seal it with some Goo Gone or do I need to replace the tire. I do have spares lying around so not a big deal. But I don't want to replace it if I have to. Thanks!&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Mmu0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12872" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T03:05:22.043" Title="Small Tear in Michelin Pro4 Tire, Does It Need To Be Replaced?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23970" CreationDate="2014-07-30T19:38:32.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I folded a dollar-bill and placed it between the tube and tire on my last set of tires.  That lasted about four months before the tube finally pushed it's way out the tear and popped.  Safest bet is to replace the tire.  But in a pinch, the dollar-bill trick will at least get you home/to the bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6796" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T19:38:32.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23976" CreationDate="2014-07-30T19:40:04.277" Score="3" ViewCount="10287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a fixed gear bike, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott_stripper.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kilo TT&lt;/a&gt;. I had some fenders lying around, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005NGPJ4I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SKS raceblade&lt;/a&gt;. I tried to install them on my bikebut noticed that the fenders attached to the skewers. My fixed gear bike has bolts in the front and back and the fenders only fit quick release skewers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some options? Can I put QR skewers on a fixed gear bike? Is there a reason they come with bolts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11513" LastActivityDate="2019-10-01T21:39:28.117" Title="Quick Release on Fixed Gear Bike" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;&lt;skewer&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2014-07-30T20:03:29.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the horizontal dropout the axle can shift.  You pretty much need the nuts to get a tight enough grip.  But I suspect people have used quick release on a single speed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Sheldon states an enclosed cam is good enough - not good enough for me.  I am not buying the historical reasons as I see new bikes with nutted horizontal dropout and still QR on the front.  If they were doing it for historical reason they would nut front and rear.  At some point you need to trust that he manufacturer did it that way for a reason.  I have never seen a manufacturer with QR on a horizontal drop out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other factor is alignment.  I typically tighten the non drive side first and tweak the drive side for chain tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other factor is the axle size.  On my single speed the axle/skewer is much larger.  I have never seen a nut on the smaller size and never seen QR for the larger size.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c38YO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T16:04:36.857" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T16:04:36.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23979" CreationDate="2014-07-30T20:43:38.290" Score="0" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to build a training road wheelset for my touring bike. I wonder what should be criteria for choosing hubs and rims and spokes. I'd prefer cheaper options as long as they are durable and not too heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hubs: which are considered serviceable as opposed to disposable? And which require relatively little maintenance? My bike has 135mm rear dropouts, so I need MTB rear hub, but for front - search for MTB or road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rims: there are many budget models with slight variations in weight and strength. I'd like to find one with maximum &lt;code&gt;strength / weight&lt;/code&gt; ratio, but how can I estimate the strength? Say, &lt;em&gt;AlexRims DA22&lt;/em&gt; is advertised as butted but it weights same as 1.5x cheaper &lt;em&gt;Mach1&lt;/em&gt; non-butted rims. Is butted any better if it's not lighter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T02:43:43.897" Title="Choosing hubs and rims for training road wheels" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23944" CreationDate="2014-07-30T20:59:09.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to be safe from rear collision then you shouldn't mind a bit of lost time/speed or minor damage to your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you will want a turn onto the sidewalk if you have a second or 2 then veer away from the curb and then turn back to get an as big angle as possible for the curb. You can use the handlebars to pull your front-wheel up the curb and when it's the rear-wheel's turn push on the pedals to get it on the curb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in a lower gear then the pushing on the pedals will help more. If you have a decent load in a pannier then you should forget any type of hop up the curb and just let the tire and rim of the rear wheel take the hit to get you to safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5863" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T20:59:09.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2014-07-30T21:52:34.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always used a quick release for the front of my fixed gear bike, I've only ever used the bolts on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His highness Sir Sheldon Brown says you should be okay to use a quick release with an enclosed cam ( &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; an exposed cam ) with an acorn nut that has steel teeth ( &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; aluminum teeth ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;disclaimer: there's no guarantee this is safe with your particular bike, modify with care and be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T21:52:34.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-30T21:53:14.190" Score="1" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won a good deal for a Shimano 2012 SLX FC-M660 set, excluding bottom bracket and crank bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any chance I can upgrade my touring bikes FC-M431 Octalink somehow without changing the chain rings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13096" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T08:14:57.033" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T22:14:59.193" Title="Change Shimano FC-M431 Octalink crank arms to Shimano SLX" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23835" CreationDate="2014-07-30T21:56:03.327" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For drop bars it's as trivial as this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/UqVFH9e.jpg?1&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(as long as pizza box is smaller than your handlebars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic bag with pizza box is hanged on hoods, and the bottom is supported by shifter cables. If you don't have a plastic bag around your pizza you can hold it with your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may somehow adapt the method for bullhorns and time trial bars. For flat bars you can hang the plastic bag straps on bars and put the rest on the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Yes, this method isn't the safest for you and pizza if you want to employ it on regular basis. But it makes perfect sense for me as an ad hoc way to carry a pie from the nearest pizzeria. I only tested it on 5-minute ride with cheap thick-crust pizza, and it was in perfect condition when I opened the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2014-08-07T09:32:58.460" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T09:32:58.460" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23974" CreationDate="2014-07-31T02:43:43.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Front hubs on mountain bikes and road bikes are all the same width, 100mm (except for some downhill hubs with through-axles). So you could use either type, they would fit in your forks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note nearly all current mountain bike hubs are designed for disc brakes, so include mounts for attaching a rotor. You can still use them on a bike with rim brakes, just don't fit a rotor. The disc part would increase the weight a bit, so they will be a bit heavier than an equivalent road hub. Also the disc mount means the hub is not symmetrical, so the wheel has to be dished. This makes it a bit more complicated to build, ie it needs different spoke lengths on each side. But this doesn't really matter, you can still build a strong wheel with either sort of hub. And disc mounts would be useful if you wanted to fit disc brakes in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for which hub, generally mid-range Shimano hubs are good. eg Deore or LX for mountain bike, or Tiagra or 105 for road. Usually they just work fine for years, with hardly any maintenance. Shimano hubs typically use cup-and-cone bearings, so they can be serviced, and the bearings replaced, but this may be a bit fiddly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T02:43:43.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23977" CreationDate="2014-07-31T08:13:41.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you would like to change to the FC-M660 cranks you are going to have to purchase a new hollowtech ii compatible bottom bracket and change everything. The octalink is a cartridge bottom bracket and the hollowtech ii is an external bearing bottom bracket. The cranks aren't compatible between the two interfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get away without a crank bolt as this only provides pre-tension when securing the left crank arm. Borrow one off a friend when fitting your crank then stick it back on the their bike. It makes no difference once the crank is secured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your reason for keeping the chain rings is to maintain a gear ratio you can change out the rings, they both use a 4 bolt 104 BCD so the rings are inter-changeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-08-02T22:14:59.193" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T22:14:59.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2014-07-31T08:54:11.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please note that since those fenders are mounted on the outer side of the frame, your skewers are tightened against the fender brackets instead of tightened directly against the frame. Therefore the skewer's nut splines and material are not the only thing to look at. You could of course get a pair of those anti-theft-skewers that you tighten with a wrench to get enough torque... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would simply just enlarge the hole in the fender bracket to 10mm. Preferably with a round file, since drilling through an oval hole is cumbersome by hand. That'd be easiest and most reliable. No need to swap axles and you could securely tighten your nuts as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Discalimer: Modifying the brackets would of course make your fenders un-returnable to the store if they don't fit for some other reason.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastEditorUserId="13177" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T09:09:54.157" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T09:09:54.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2014-07-31T14:00:27.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could avoid interfering with your wheel fastening solution by mounting the guards using P-clips on the seat stays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T14:00:27.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2014-07-31T14:12:59.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They come with bolts because QR's typcially don't clamp with enough force to keep the wheel from slipping forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have rear facing dropouts, so you should easily be able to use QR's if you get yourself a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/drivetrain/tuggnut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Surly Tuggnut&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XBD83.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Surly Tuggnut&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That little circle on the side of it is a QR adapter. You just pop it in and then slide your skewer all the way through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a bad idea to have a chain tensioner anyway. One on the drive side will help you get the chain tensioned correctly when mounting the wheel. I personally like to use chain tensioners on both sides so that the wheel doesn't get knocked crooked if I hit a bump. I've had it happen. It sucks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used a bunch of chain tensioners and can say from experience that the Tuggnut is by far the easiest to use on the market, partially because it's the only one I've ever found that requires no tools. It's also the only one I've ever found that has a QR adapter. The built-in bottle opener is handy too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that little rant, I feel I should mention that I am in no way affiliated with Surly. The tuggnut is just a really good product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T14:12:59.860" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2014-07-31T14:46:20.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to the other answers, it is my experience that you can't get as secure a fit with a QR skewer as with a nutted axle. If your bike has track forks (like below), rather than forward facing horizontal dropouts, you can probably get away with this, especially by adding a chain tug to keep the wheel from sliding forward in the rear fork end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3X3Y.png&quot; alt=&quot;track fork end&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If however your bike is a fixie conversion with an old-school horizontal dropout (like below) I'd highly advise against using a QR. The forces exerted when pedalling tend to pull the rear wheel forward relative to the rest of the bike. The axle nut is the only thing resisting this force. If this connection isn't tight enough your rear wheel could fall out of the dropouts when in motion. With a fixed gear drivetrain this is very dangerous for obvious reasons. You can't use a chain tug to prevent this as they old work for backward-facing track forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XfRZT.png&quot; alt=&quot;horizontal dropout&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Images from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#vertical&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sheldon brown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T14:46:20.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23892" CreationDate="2014-07-31T16:39:39.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@headeronly has the best answer, but this is a great supplementary quote from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00FQUDQR8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Rules: The Way of the Cycling Disciple by The Velominati&lt;/a&gt;. It's a tongue-in-cheek book but illuminates the problems nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For a while, aerobars were allowed in one-day races and road-race&#xA;  stages of Grand Tours. But this presented a new problem; when a&#xA;  rider’s grip on the bars is narrowed into an aero position, their&#xA;  hands are far away from the brakes, the steering of the bike is&#xA;  compromised and controlling the machine in a situation where there are&#xA;  up to 200 people riding butt to nose to shoulder, it becomes much more&#xA;  of an issue than if you are barreling into a corner at speed, all&#xA;  alone and can pick whatever line you please. While the type of&#xA;  aerobars were more compact than those typically used in a time trial&#xA;  (i.e., Spinaci bars), there was an increase in sketchiness within the&#xA;  peloton that couldn’t be ignored. Mostly on the grounds of safety,&#xA;  they were banned from mass-start events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10514" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T16:39:39.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14740" CreationDate="2014-07-31T16:47:49.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a summary of some the options I've found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manual:&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Blow back the water back in to your bladder to prevent freezing, this can cause your hydration reservoir to bulge though. I've also heard this can introduce bacteria to the bladder, making it get funky faster. This is less effective when you have a smaller amount of water in your bladder.&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Use a compact reservoir and keep it under your jacket. Run the tube under your jacket or down your arm under the jacket. Keep it from being exposed when not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insulation:&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Neoprene insulation for your tube. &#xA;&lt;li&gt; Bag makers have their own more expansive insulated systems than just a tube cover. Osprey insulated delivery system, which has a zip up cover for your valve. Camelback has the Antidote Thermal Control Kit which includes a cap cover for the bite valve and neoprene tube cover. Salomon makes a fully insluated hydration tube and bladder with bite valve cover for nordic skiing.&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Use foam packing material and tape to make an insulated sleeve for your bladder, to slow the cooling of water in the bladder itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat Managment:&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Fill your bladder with warm or room temp water, so it will take longer to cool down.&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Add hand warmers to the pocket in your hydration pack where your bladder lives.  May want to put this in a sock to prevent direct contact with the bladder. This will keep the water around it warm, and prevent it from getting as cold so long as you keep drinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chemical:&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Add a small amount of vodka to your water supply to prevent freezing by lowering the freezing point of the water. I'm not quite sure of the appropriate amount.&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Add electrolyte tablets to water, which should in theory lower the freezing point of water a bit.  Making it take longer for your water to freeze up. Do not exceed the amount suggested by manufacturer of electrolyte tabs. Not sure to what degree the freezing point would be lowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T16:47:49.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23857" CreationDate="2014-07-31T17:50:21.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're at all concerned, just go for the natural colored cambium saddle, which I don't think is dyed, so it shouldn't be an issue with that one.  I have not had any issue with colors tranferring from the slate colored saddle to my lighter colored synthetic shorts. However, After riding the slate colored saddle, the gray faded and now appears more brown.  So I would avoid the slate colored saddle if you're concerned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually had the reverse problem using the natural colored cambium saddle which I was demoing from a local shop.  The dye in my dark indigo colored jeans transferred to the saddle and turned it somewhat blue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T17:50:21.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23970" CreationDate="2014-07-31T18:07:04.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;People patch tubless mountain bike tires all the time. You could use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003V9W0G4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;slime tire patch kit&lt;/a&gt;, used frequently for Motorcycle, ATV, and Dirt Bike tires as those patches are a bit more durable than standard bike tube patches. It seems like all the amazon review are from mountain bikers.  I've used a regular bike tube patch on the inside of the tire as well.  It's best to use the larger patches to cover as much area as possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a tear that small, I wouldn't be too concerned running it as long as it doesn't get any bigger. I've been running a couple sets of tires patched like this with no ill effects.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I've also run a tire with a park tool tire boot for months without any issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T18:07:04.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-31T19:07:00.283" Score="1" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a new bike (below). It's rather latest technology for me. I got it assembled from a supermarket, but had to do almost all the adjustments myself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UCsuz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what I did wrong with the front disc brake (Tektro hydraulic something), but when I ride the bike it starts rubbing against the pads occasionally. A bike shop said that it's wind and that's okay, but I can't stand the noise... Now it seems like it has totally moved out of place today as it rubs against the pads when I spin the wheel while not even riding. Did I not tighten bolts enough? Maybe it was the rain and water that made me hear the disk rubbing today?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question is what to do when your front derailleur doesn't switch from gear 2 to 1? From 2 to 3 and the other way around it works great. It is probably not necessary for normal rides as gear 2 in the front is already really damn low, but I would still love to have it perfectly functional for bragging rights. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think the bike looks feminine? I really think the colors look totally fine as the purple is rather dark and I have a white seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for all of your answers, you are helping me learn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13229" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T19:52:53.230" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T09:31:21.013" Title="Adjusting disk brake positions" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23990" CreationDate="2014-07-31T20:25:12.343" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to say it but this is why it's advisable to go to a bike shop, if you're not sure about setting things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You raise a couple of points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Front disk brake. Regarding your original problem, the rotor should not rub against the pads, period. There should be no contact unless you're actually braking. And when you stop braking, the pads should sit back. I'm not sure where &quot;the wind&quot; has come from, but that sounds like baloney to me - especially if you've taken it to the shop about a rubbing problem. As regards the recent movement - the calliper should be attached to the fork such that movement is not possible. Possibly you didn't tighten things enough, possibly you didn't set them up correctly in the first place. Rain should have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Front derailleur. It sounds like this just needs to be adjusted, which is straightforward. I see someone has already posted a comment with a link describing how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bike looks. Do you really care about this? If it worries you, go ride in some mud. Do this &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; you get the brake fixed!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you should probably have a bike shop look at your front brake, as obviously you need this to work reliably. They'll be able to sort your derailleur too, as I said that's likely trivial. But to be honest I'd be wary of going back to a shop that claims that the rotor rubbing on  the pads is caused by wind - I just don't see how this can be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-08-01T08:14:28.890" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T08:14:28.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-01T02:09:28.417" Score="0" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;The heart thing has happened a few times before, and the vomiting only once; but I haven't cycled in about a year and am getting back into it. I used to be a gymnast and did pretty extreme conditioning and never experienced this then; it's only with cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My body doesn't feel fatigued, overall when this happens my muscles, legs etc feel like they could sprint for a mile with no issue. I'm never panting or struggling for breath or anything like that. It's just my heart and a sudden overwhelming sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've seen Gattaca; the scene where the main character is on the treadmill with the fake heart monitor and then later collapses in the lockerroom is exactly how I would describe these episodes. In fact watching that scene makes me feel very uneasy and my hands start shaking; because the episodes feel like I'm about to die...it's extremely frightening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just a matter of endurance? I'm definitely going to talk to my physician next time I go for a check up. I don't eat large meals and I wait at least two hours before I go on a ride, and I don't particularly &quot;go hard&quot;, I just kind of cruise. But I live in Seattle and it's pretty hilly here. Normally I just rest, lay down, sit-up, vomit, and I'm good to go. But I would really, REALLY prefer to not experience this ever again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13232" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T02:59:56.530" Title="Massive and sudden increase in heart rate and vomiting after when cycling" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-08-01T13:05:50.093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23993" CreationDate="2014-08-01T02:59:56.530" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to a doctor - this sounds dangerous. Anything you see on SE is not a substitute for professional medical advice and it sounds like you really need to see one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T02:59:56.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23970" CreationDate="2014-08-01T03:05:22.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike on a car tire, the sidewall isn't more important than the rest of the tire, really [ on a car tire, if the sidewall goes, you're going to blow out].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#replacement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; from Sheldon is good reading: &quot;If you are mainly concerned with safety/function, there are only two reasons for replacing old tires:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) When the tread is worn so thin that you start getting a lot of flats from small pieces of glass and the like, or the fabric shows through the rubber.&#xA;2) When the tire's fabric has been damaged, so that the tire has a lumpy, irregular appearance somewhere, or the tube bulges through the tire.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably use some adhesive on it to seal it up unless going on long rides often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T03:05:22.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23990" CreationDate="2014-08-01T09:31:21.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Loosen the two bolts, holding the caliper of the front brake. It should move freely sideways now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Hold tight the front brake lever. The caliper will bite into the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Tighten the bolts to the point when moving the caliper is possible, but requires a push by hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Lift the front wheel and validate that it doesn't rub. If it rubs try squeezing the lever again. Failing that, try adjusting the caliper by hand, to the point that it stops rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Either hold the break lever, or the caliper itself, so that it doesn't move. Tighten the bolts hard, but not to the point of damaging the threads in the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This procedure should take about 10 minutes at most. There are videos in youtube, depicting the process and explaining it better than me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask a separate question about the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T09:31:21.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21674" CreationDate="2014-08-01T11:50:11.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advantages of DOT over Mineral Oil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DOT has a standard - product that meets the minimum standards is readily available at low cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compatibility with cheap materials used for seals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hygroscopic, so water will not collect in a single part of the system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages of DOT over Mineral Oil: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corrosive despite inhibiting additives, damages paint, skin, metals etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hygroscopic, so water is absorbed and the boiling point drops over time. Limited shelf life and operating life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-02T14:38:02.200" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T14:38:02.200" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-08-01T11:50:11.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21397" CreationDate="2014-08-01T11:52:50.017" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drop the chain and try to rotate cranks. If &quot;skip&quot; feels then I would look into BB. If not, then pretty much sounds like kink in the chain which is very possible on very new or very old chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very new chains can be over-pressurised while installing and therefore one link connection is just not flexible enough which makes it &quot;skip&quot; when going through the derailer. Old chains have rust and dirt problem which causes same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T11:52:50.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24012" CreationDate="2014-08-01T12:46:59.700" Score="5" ViewCount="6792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an extreme arachnophobe, to the point that I've left dishes in the sink due to a dead spider the size of an M&amp;amp;M.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike at work is right in the open, and because of the soft winter, there are dozens of spiders around the parking lot. I very much doubt I can deal with one or more of them sitting or even forming webs on my bicycle without getting all freaked out about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want them to get in my bike, form webs on it or even get within a couple of feet of it. Are there any methods I can use? I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/2384/what-can-i-do-to-keep-my-shed-or-house-free-of-spiders&quot;&gt;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/2384/what-can-i-do-to-keep-my-shed-or-house-free-of-spiders&lt;/a&gt;, but most of those are hard to apply to bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11269" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:22:17.377" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T21:53:35.073" Title="How can I keep spiders and other bugs off my bicycle?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21397" CreationDate="2014-08-01T15:13:52.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it happens strictly once per revolution, then it is likely to happen exactly at the same pedal position every time. For example, &quot;every time when the left pedal begins the down stroke&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, it must be in the front part of the transmission, since any problem happening in the rear, will be multiplied by the gear ratio and so, it will happen at a different pedal position each time, (unless you have a 1:1 ratio).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things that can be felt like a skip that happen on the front side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First is a damage in the bearings and cup of the crank axle. If it is a Sealed Bottom Bracket, then it may need replacing. A Cup and Cone type BB, may get away with replacing only one component, but they tend to be cheap and it is better to replace the whole system (Or even upgrade to sealed). By &quot;a damage&quot; I mean a dent in a cup or in the spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There can be something loose. It is known for square tapper cranks that if they are used while not tight enough, the square hole can get deformed and out of shape, allowing the crank to wiggle. It is usual though that the foot only feel one direction of the wiggle (i.e. you don't feel when it &quot;wiggles back&quot;, usually half a revolution after the initial wiggling). Sometimes this type of damage  persists even if you tighten the crank retaining bolt. I have little experience with cottered cranks, but I guess similar things happen to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In rare cases, a loose or missing chainring bolt can give this feeling, specially when the chain is not perfectly aligned with the affected chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet another cause for this feeling can be a damage in the pedal. I have seen pedals where the cage is damaged in such way that in a specific position of the spindle, the cage wiggles up and down, but only in that position and not during the rest of the rotation. If this where the case, imagine what you would get if the pedal suddenly moves down a little bit during the stroke. This type of thing, however, is usually felt with just one foot, not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Agree with another answer here that you should disengage the chain from the chainrings and try to pedal (while leaned into a wall or a pole, etc.) to see if you still feel the weird thing. By dropping the chain to isolate the rest of the transmission, and if the problem can still be felt, the it has to be in the front end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T00:59:43.573" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T00:59:43.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-01T15:38:40.873" Score="2" ViewCount="3990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently run Tiagra triple 9 speed crank, 50/39/30&#xA;The BCD on the 50 being 130mm.&#xA;I'd like to replace the 50t with a 52t to make it 52/39/30.&#xA;I'm looking at a Shimano 105 52t chainring but it says it's intended for a double crank and 10 speed drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you think I can make that ring work in my setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4051" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T12:34:28.720" Title="Can I use a Shimano 105 10 speed BCD 130mm 52t chainring as a replacement in my 9 speed tiagra triple crankset?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24003" CreationDate="2014-08-01T15:54:24.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should work fine, assuming the BCD on the 105 52t chain ring is also 130 mm (and not 110 mm - compact).  The 105 chainring will be profiled ever so slightly thinner for the 10 speed chain, but will not affect 9 speed performance. Make sure to orient the new ring in the correct position with the small metal tab (that catches an errant chain)  pointing  toward the crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T15:54:24.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24013" CreationDate="2014-08-02T06:44:55.043" Score="1" ViewCount="3199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a SR Suntour NEX (42x34x24) crankset and got my system really bad recently.&#xA;But as I've used the second (34) chainring most of all I would like to replace only this one.&#xA;Is it okay? Does my crank allow it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6194" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T01:56:02.837" Title="Changing one of the chainrings on SR Suntour NEX crank?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-02T06:47:39.363" Score="4" ViewCount="1247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 85 Raleigh that until yesterday had never had its rear tire replaced over the life of the bicycle. Before I replaced it, the wheel seemed fairly stiff. I don't know if the old tire was so dried out it ed lending support or what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I need to get something adjusted or if a bit if flex is ok. Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: by flex, I mean I tightened down the bolts, so the axle is tightly locked to the frame. However, when I first took the bike off the rack, the tire stayed in the same place on the ground, but if I shook the seat side to side, it would hit a frequency where the axle would move side to side, but the rim would sort of flex backwards and forwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, by stiff I meant it didn't do this before, not that the brakes were rubbing or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: There were questions about how well maintained this bike was, the previous owner said it was used as an indoor exercise bike, and when I bought it it it was on the bike exercise stand. It didn't have a front wheel, and based on the wear on the rear tire, I don't think it was used much, so as far as I can tell, it just sat in someone's basement for 30 or so years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8649" LastEditorUserId="8649" LastEditDate="2014-08-02T16:16:06.707" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T16:16:06.707" Title="replaced tire, now wheel flexes side to side" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24008" CreationDate="2014-08-02T07:50:25.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be no flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible you haven't reinstalled the wheel correctly; and the axle is sliding around in the dropouts. If that's not the case, I assume you're talking about lateral wobble when you hold the bike frame still and wiggle the wheel rim. That indicates hub bearings in dire need of replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say the wheel felt stiff before replacing the tyre; the chances are the tyre/rim was rubbing against the brake pads. In changing the tyre you most likely knocked things about a bit and nudged the brakes so that they no longer rub on the tyre/rim, exposing the play in the hub bearings that was already present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much less likely: If you're talking about a different kind of flex (i.e. the wheel rim is actually deforming under moderate force), you've probably cracked the rim while replacing the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a trip to your LBS to me. Wheels should not flex in any of the ways described above, and a bike which hasn't had a tyre change in 29 years will almost certainly have been neglected in other ways too. You don't seem to have a great deal of experience, and most likely won't be able to spot potentially dangerous problems. Take it in and ask for a full service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T07:50:25.073" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23239" CreationDate="2014-08-02T09:37:57.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike is a JC Higgins sold at Sears stores. Not exactly sure of the year but I think most Komet hubs were used in the late 50's into the 60's. Just Google JC Higgins bicycle and I'm sure you'll find a picture of one just like yours. &#xA;Good luck and don't give up on it. When she sees it looking like it did when she was a kid, it will bring back many childhood memories. That is priceless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13243" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T09:37:57.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24008" CreationDate="2014-08-02T12:09:06.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four possibilities (that I can think of off-hand): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tire itself is not properly seated on the rim.  Let most of the air out and work the tire sideways back and forth with your hands to make sure it's well seated.  Reinflate and spin the wheel and look at the junction between tire and rim.  The tire should not appear to wobble up and down relative to the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tube is twisted inside the tire.  If this is the case you will not be able to get the tire properly seated -- there will be &quot;bumps&quot; and it will seem uneven.  Remove the tube, inflate it until it &quot;fills out&quot; and limply holds its shape, then reinstall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some of the spokes have broken or come loose.  They might have been ready to go and mucking around with the wheel &quot;pushed them over the edge&quot;.  &quot;Pluck&quot; each spoke.  On an older, unmaintained wheel they will not likely all have the exact same tension, but none should feel loose, and one is really loose you will likely notice that it has broken, probably at the hub.  If you have loose or broken spokes you probably need to take the wheel to a bike shop to get them fixed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hub bearings are loose.  This can happen when you are unscrewing the nuts to remove the wheel.  The symptom will be that, when you push the wheel back and forth from the side of the rim, you can see that the hub is wobbling relative to the axle.  If you're mechanically inclined you can adjust this yourself, but if not it's best to take it to a shop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T12:09:06.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24000" CreationDate="2014-08-02T12:10:33.483" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use poison. It will likely not work. Would you be able to remove a dead spider from your bike anyway? How would you know it was dead? Poison is bad for other insects and animals in general. It's bad for you. I believe it's against the spirit of biking too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think a bike cover will work for you. You will give spiders another place to hide. Even if it's very well sealed I can't see any reason why spiders wouldn't want to wander around your cover just as they wander around your bike. Unless it wraps around your bike tightly it will likely have creases that again will create perfect places for spiders to hide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use your bike frequently,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean your bike frequently,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carry an air blower for safe removal of stray insects from your bike without coming into direct contact with them (you might even be able to use your bike pump for that if you carry one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is my main means of transport and I have never encounter a spider on it. Perhaps because I never look for them. So as soon as you approach your bike just jump on it and ride ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13245" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T12:10:33.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24007" CreationDate="2014-08-02T13:05:39.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Suntour NEX cranksets are marked as &quot;Interchangable Chainring Design&quot; by Suntour, while the XCM's are marked as &quot;Full Interchangable Chainring Design&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you can replace the big ring on a NEX crankset, but the middle and small ring are one piece. So, if you want to replace the middle chainring, you have to buy a whole new crankset (or somehow source the middle and small together). Given the NEX is a fairly low end part [~ 30 USD], another crankset is likely a better idea [ You can pick up a Shimano crankset or similar with all chainrings replaceable for around 50 USD ]. Note that  a new chainring would have been likely ~20 USD if you could have replaced it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that you can go a good while with a &quot;worn&quot; crankset provided the teeth aren't mucked up too badly (e.g. bent), so &quot;suck it up and deal with it&quot; may be a good option depending on what state the crankset is in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankset replacement procedure is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-removal-and-installation-three-piece&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; - you may need some tools you don't own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T01:56:02.837" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T01:56:02.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24003" CreationDate="2014-08-02T15:06:23.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, consider this; can you spin out the 50t? If not, there isn't anything to be gained by going to a larger chain-ring. At a cadence of 90rpm and a 50t x 11t will yield over 32mph &amp;amp; a speed of about 42.5mph could be attained with 120rpm. Even with 50t x 13t &amp;amp; 90rpm, the speed would be close to 28mph.&#xA;If you make the switch, you may find the front derailleur can't handle the larger chain-ring, so check the specs first.  Older Tiagra derailleurs could handle up to 53t, but the design was changed for better shifting, and the current model specification shows a top gear of 50t with a range of 20t (meaning the difference between the large chain-ring &amp;amp; the small ring can be no more than 20t, ie. with a 50t outer ring the inner ring could be no smaller than 30t)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T15:06:23.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24326" CreationDate="2014-08-02T19:16:07.313" Score="5" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the white mid picture in the shape of a canine tooth.  The sticker / veneer came off / separated.  Is it something I should worry about?  Is there something I can do?  Niner Air Nine Carbon.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qlnj2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chip&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a response back from Niner &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thanks for being part of the niner nation!   That looks like some rock&#xA;  strike which is no big deal in that area.   Ride On!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T19:40:53.660" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T18:25:05.367" Title="Carbon fiber chip" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23639" CreationDate="2014-08-02T19:39:58.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking around, it sounds like Shimano and other companies who do hoods may have discontinued them - it may be useful to shoot Shimano an email to see if this is true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd check your bike shop/co-op's parts bin - theres a good chance one of those shifters from a wreck is in there, which you can salvage the hoods from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you go to a bike shop, they might be able to pull it up in the QBP catalog (part CA-5500 or something is what the internet tells me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T19:39:58.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23423" CreationDate="2014-08-02T20:01:23.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a perfect replacement on eBay: &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;amp;item=321463814720&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;amp;item=321463814720&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12858" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T20:01:23.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23638" CreationDate="2014-08-02T20:12:05.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer is going to be a non-answer in the sense that shoe sizes are not really the same even among most types of shoes. As an example, when I buy shoes, I normally buy (in US sizes) 12.5 wide /13 in New Balance (which feels fine), 13 in Nike (which feels fine or slightly tight), 13 in Adidas (which typically feel tight), something bigger for boots typically, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find cycling shoes have similar variations but typically run smaller than the equivalent US size marking. You also have to consider not just the &quot;size&quot; but width, so if you have wider feet, cycling shoes become more problematic in sizing as well (I find that they typically run narrower than the sneakers I buy). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, your feet aren't just a length - they have a width and height associated with them, along with curvatures, so it would be somewhat difficult to move others experiences to your size (especially since not everyone wears the right size of shoes to begin with)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T20:12:05.263" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15678" CreationDate="2014-08-02T23:35:56.420" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem, and I heard someone else in my LBS with the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the day, we had a pump where you put the pump head on the valve, pushed a little tab down, and then pumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my current pump is the reverse: You put the pump head on the valve with the tab down, and then pull it up and out to pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is one thing to check for if your pump won't stay; maybe you're doing it backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="577" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T23:35:56.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-03T00:01:45.640" Score="3" ViewCount="9568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this bike secondhand, and so I don't know its history/what could have made it like that. And I mean they wobble while I'm holding them, not while I'm riding hands-free only. I've ridden a few bikes before, and they didn't have this wobble, so I don't think it's just a case of me not being strong enough to hold the handlebars straight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13253" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T03:50:30.847" Title="Why do my handlebars wobble left and right?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24021" CreationDate="2014-08-03T00:37:00.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different bikes can have different geometry. The head tube (the tube that continues the line of the front forks up to the handlebars) angle has a big effect on how the bike handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A steeper head tube makes the bike more &quot;twitchy&quot;. You can feel like you're all over the place. A bike like this would be a more serious road bike, and if you are used to using flat handlebars then it probably has narrower handle bars (drop bars) also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of those make it harder to control, until you get used to it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So my advice is: &lt;strong&gt;keep trying, it will get easier&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more reading see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_frame#Frame_geometry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frame geometry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/3049/8273&quot;&gt;Explaining the effects of frame geometries&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/geometry-of-bike-handling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geometry of bike handling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/12837/8273&quot;&gt;What effect does head tube angle have on a bicycle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T00:37:00.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23531" CreationDate="2014-08-03T05:33:26.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is pretty much just a bike maintenance issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Clean it after use&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping it clean keeps corrosion at bay and from a psychological stance just makes the bike &quot;feel&quot; spiffier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Do regular maintenance every few weeks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain degreaser&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using a brush to scrub dirt out from between cogs and gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check/adjust tension on brake cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check/adjust shift alignment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check/reapply grease on pedals and components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check chain tension, replace if necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Do a full tune up every 3-6 months depending on how much you ride&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;everything in a regular maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;break down bottom bracket and degrease&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;break down rear cassette, deep clean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go over all the nuts, bolts, etc. with a torque wrench and torque to manufacturer specifications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Replace bolts, nuts, screws, etc as needed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you perform the above maintenance cycles, you'll notice over time some components will become corroded, show signs of rust, etc. When you see that, replace them. Don't forget to torque them to spec. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's just a few off the top of my head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13255" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T05:33:26.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-03T10:38:39.637" Score="1" ViewCount="2256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 SRAM Red 10 speed groupset on my bike, and I have just changed the front crankset to the latest SRAM Red 22 compact; I will also add a new KMC KMC X10SL chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Front derailleur no longer shifts the chain off the large and small properly so I have also ordered a SRAM Red 22 YAW front derailleur to fix this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My big question is this: will I now have issues with the rear PG1090 cassette? Should I buy a new 11 speed cassette, shifters, chain, and rear derailleur to bring everything up to snuff or will the front derailleur be the end of my problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13258" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-08-03T21:24:17.390" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T21:24:17.390" Title="SRAM Red 22 crankset &amp; 10 speed cassette" Tags="&lt;sram&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-03T11:58:27.903" Score="8" ViewCount="1032" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gotten good at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2927/8&quot;&gt;wrapping drop bars&lt;/a&gt;, using conventional cork tape: You start at the end and work your way up, keeping the tension even and watching the overlap, and it works perfectly for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the H-bars on my Bike Friday have aways been a challenge. They're smaller and more finicky to wrap, but that's just a matter of time and practice. Specifically, getting the intersections at the bar joins to wrap cleanly has always been a problem: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QMKUA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;H-bars wrapped terribly&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, the tape will invariably loosen because of this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest a method for doing this that will stay for longer? Should I wrap the main bars separately from the vertical bars? Is there some special secret way to do this? Or is this just a downside to this kind of bar? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I wrapped the bars from the top of the barend down to the bottom, then getting the main handlebars. The below picture shows the problem area; note the separate piece of tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSJRl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T19:21:16.077" Title="Need a method to wrap H-bars with handlebar tape" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24026" CreationDate="2014-08-03T13:32:43.910" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd wrap in two passes: first, from the bottom stubs to the join, just crossing over onto the ends of the main bar. Then tape this up tight, to squash it down. Secondly, I'd wrap from the tops of the bar ends around the joins and all the way up to the stem. The second pass should cover up the tape holding the first bit of wrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe something like this (excuse terrible paint skills)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfAL5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Suggestion for H-bar wrap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T12:06:37.900" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T12:06:37.900" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23347" CreationDate="2014-08-03T21:06:49.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After calling around to a few different Trek shops and buying several different hangers online, I took my bike to a shop near me that specializes in commuters and things like that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanic took one look at it, ran to the basement, and came back up with the correct hanger. It is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelsmfg.com/derailleur-hanger-49.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wheels Mfg. #49&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I explained to him the trouble I had trying to track down the right hanger, and how it is listed incorrectly on the Wheels Mfg. site. He told me that this hanger in particular is common to a lot of Fujis, so his guess was that they were all made in the same factory, just under different brand names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway thanks for all the help and research, I'm glad I finally got this resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: Wheels Mfg. #49&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12818" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T01:11:50.077" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T01:11:50.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24031" CreationDate="2014-08-04T01:15:29.253" Score="1" ViewCount="2287" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have an old road bike and instead of coughing up cash for new one I've decided to just start upgrading parts now and slowly build a better custom bike, one piece at a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike currently has shimano rsx group set minus the shifters which were replaced with Shimano sora flight deck triple shifters. Old stuff I know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triple ring in front and 8 in back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wanted to get this wheel set: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/campagnolo-zonda-clincher-wheelset/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.com/campagnolo-zonda-clincher-wheelset/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it says compatible with 10 and 11 speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get this working on my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;without having to get a newer crankset (10 or 11 speed) or group set. I want to get a new group set but rather get wheels first to make riding more fun and fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice is mush appreciated! Relatively new to upgrading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13263" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T19:52:24.687" Title="Advice for getting Campagnolo Zonda wheelset on a 2000 8 speed shimano rsx" Tags="&lt;cannondale&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20960" CreationDate="2014-08-04T01:45:43.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lost a Shimano Deore Xl pad recently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a stop gap, with nothing else available - was in the middle of nowhere, I bought at Walmart some Bell brake pads ($4.99), which have screw posts. The post didn't fit perfectly (I only had to replace one brake pad) but once I tightened and adjusted, it worked great ... and still does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for an old Gary Fisher MTB. I'm still looking for a replacement for the Shimano pads; I will likely have to replace the whole rig, however. But for now, that brake pad is solid and not going anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13264" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-08-04T08:18:17.763" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T08:18:17.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24029" CreationDate="2014-08-04T01:54:37.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice is &quot;don't&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo doesn't typically play nice with non-Campy stuff without jumping through hoops (see footnote). In particular, Shimano cassettes (which you need for &amp;lt;=10 speed systems for Shimano shifters) won't go on a Campagnolo freehub. So, you need to either move completely to Campy (expensive) or buy a rear wheel which is Shimano compatible. A 11 speed Shimano comaptible freehub will take an 8 speed cassette with some spacer(s) thrown on. Most &amp;lt;11 speed Shimano compatible freehubs will not take a 11 speed cassette since they are too short (exception is some Mavic ones). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Zinn has found that the 11 speed stuff &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/09/bikes-and-tech/drivetrain-compatibility-hidden-in-plain-sight_303199&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;plays OK with each other&lt;/a&gt;, but Sora isn't a 11 speed set]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd personally recommend getting a wheel (if you had to) which has a Shimano compatible freehub on it. And for what its worth, 8 speeds is plenty - you may want a different cassette in the back or whatever, but you'll get a lot more gain if you become more fit [you may also feel faster on a racier bike; given that wheels are one of the most expensive parts of a bike (along with the frame and shifters), you may just want to upgrade to a whole new racier bike ]. For this reason, I'd say if the wheel is working, don't bother replacing it (or if it isn't and it needs minor repairs, e.g. truing, get that done and go ride). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Footnote: I understand there are hacks such as JTek Shiftmates for interfacing Campy wheels+hubs with Shimano shifters and what not, but this is not an ideal option [and I don't know the entire Campy compatibility ruleset, so I choose to ignore it]. There are also freehubs which have parts which can be swapped for switching between Shimano and Campy (made by Mavic), but this is also rather expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-04T02:27:11.097" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T02:27:11.097" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24033" CreationDate="2014-08-04T03:29:08.967" Score="7" ViewCount="1643" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I was browsing Youtube for cycling related videos, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByBAItDM3Ws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; on making your own tubeless setup caught my eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure is essentially as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean a standard rim (not for tubeless tires, which has rimtape installed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit a 20&quot; tube on a 29&quot; wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Split the tube along the seam of the tube so that it covers the edges of the rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the chalk (used for manufacturing the tube so it doesn't stick to itself) out of the tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install a standard tire (designed for tubes) on top of the split tube (so the edges of the split tube cover the rim), and pump it up to see if it seals well enough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add sealant and shake the tire up as usual, trim the excess 20&quot; tube off the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see why this works to some extent [ the tube prevents air escaping through the edges of the rim as well as towards the spokes ], but I am curious about a few aspects of this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why doesn't air escape through the standard tire? Presumably the tire itself is somewhat porous to keep the weight down (since only the tube needs to be air tight but the tire itself does not). I'd also guess the tube on tire contact isn't very good at low pressure, but the pressure may be high enough and the interface between the tube and tire nice enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why does the tire not roll over the rim at mountain biking pressures? Presumably theres less area and mechanism for the tire to grip onto the rim, and I'd expect a sew-up tire-like roll off, especially on rough terrain, or at least the seal to give out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm not recommending anyone try this (including myself), but it does seem like some people have used this successfully. In the unlikely event that someone has actually tried a setup like this, I'm somewhat curious as to what the results were as well (but I'm not trying to primarily solicit opinion-based answers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T00:35:54.817" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T00:35:54.817" Title="Homemade Tubeless Tires" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24032" CreationDate="2014-08-04T05:23:47.047" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Air will escape, one of the biggest problems with Ghetto tubeless (unfortunate, but long established name for this technique) and not using specific tubeless ready or UST (tubeless standard) tires is that you need to inflate your tires a lot. At worst for every ride.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The tires often do roll off the rim. Not every combination of Ghetto tubeless will work (the internet used to be full of lists) so it's about trial and error. It's always been recommended to do the rear first and ride for a few rides before doing the front. If the rear tire comes off you may be able to stay up right!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher pressures (+40 psi) are worse for tires rolling off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-08-04T18:11:37.330" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T18:11:37.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-04T06:20:36.063" Score="1" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about building a new mountain bike but I'm not really sure what I need. I found a used Giant Anthem Advanced Carbon Mountain Bike Frame and I want to put disc brakes and Fox shocks on it. But the problem is I'm not sure what fork to get.&#xA;If anyone could help me, that would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Giant-Anthem-Advanced-Carbon-Mountian-Bike-Frame-Medium-26-/281401484186?pt=US_Bicycles_Frames&amp;amp;hash=item4184d5e39a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13266" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-04T06:48:10.380" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T09:29:25.617" Title="Need help with putting together a mountain bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-08-04T12:43:37.127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24034" CreationDate="2014-08-04T06:46:20.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to note is that the frame has to fit you. Also, the frame and rear suspension should be known to be in good condition before you buy the frame as well - this is especially important for carbon due to its failure modes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have experience with this [and it sounds like you don't, given Fox pretty much makes shocks for everybody], you should probably work on this with a bike shop since the assembly process will require tools you likely don't have (and even if you have the tools, it may require expertise which you might not have, such as how to cut forks to the right length). Local riders can also help you spec a bike which is appropriate for the type of riding you do (for example, full suspension may be unnecessary in your area making this frame a bad choice and certain types of forks may be popular among people in the area for good reason). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, when selecting a fork, you will need to match the headset type and the fork geometry to what the frame is designed for. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5459/how-do-i-choose-a-bicycle-fork&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; has a nice answer which summarizes those things and as does &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merlincycles.com/blog/selecting-right-fork-bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;. Obviously, it needs to be able to mount the brakes you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for selecting disc brakes, read some reviews on various models and choose one based on your needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, voting to close this question, since it is primarily opinion based, highly dependent on the type of riding you do, your budget and your location. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T07:03:21.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24029" CreationDate="2014-08-04T07:19:08.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo (not Mavic) make a Shimano-compatible cassette body for the Zonda. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the same unit as they also use on the Fulcrum wheels and it will take a genuine Shimano cassette directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst the cassette body is advertised as 10/11s, it will work fine with 8s - the spline pattern on the inside of the cassette sprockets is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to use the supplied spacer under the cassette in order to lock it firmly in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH, Graeme - &#xA;Velotech Cycling Ltd - &#xA;Campagnolo main UK SC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T07:19:08.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24034" CreationDate="2014-08-04T09:29:25.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2007 Giant Anthem Advanced had a 80mm fork. To maintain the geometry and handling of the bike you should select a similar travel fork. Other things specifications are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;26&quot; wheel size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 1/8&quot; straight steerer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T09:29:25.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-04T16:52:15.747" Score="2" ViewCount="3143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to replace the bottom bracket assembly on my 98' trek 820.  The current one grinds and needs replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bracket that came in it is a shimano bb-ct92.  I've looked online and can't find it for sale...what should i do to replace a minimum of parts and get this bracket changed out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions are 68x116, but apparently because the front derailleur attaches to the bottom bracket, or complicates things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity, how difficult/costly would it be to move to a normal style derailleur?  One that would allow me to use a standard style bottom bracket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-08-07T06:05:10.010" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T06:05:10.010" Title="Replacing bottom bracket on 98 trek 820" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24039" CreationDate="2014-08-04T18:37:56.817" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that the BB shell is the 68mm English standard which means for very little money you can replace the bottom bracket and most likely crankset. A quick search on Jenson USA brought me &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-UN55-Bottom-Bracket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, which should come in a size that will fit your 820. If you'd like more details on the bike's specs for sizing, I'd recommend looking at it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=1998&amp;amp;brand=Trek&amp;amp;model=820&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; on bikepedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T18:37:56.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24026" CreationDate="2014-08-04T19:09:05.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Then this is what I would try. Call the corners of the T of the H NW NE SE SW.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On left side start from inside and wrap going forward on the top of the bar to the T&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from NE across bottom to SW    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;across top back to NE   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;across bottom to SE  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;across top to NW   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;across bottom to SE    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one full wrap on South   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;across top to NW   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wrap to north to bar end  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some combination of crosses with a full wrap on south.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If south is longer than one wrap then I don't think you can do it in one pass.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On 2 you kind of need to deal with where you are.  You may need to start with pass over the top.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6,7,8 are the hard one as you have to come back on yourself.  That is why you want 6 on the bottom as it will be the ugly one.  You may need to move the starting point or wrap the other direction to get 6 on the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternate would be 1 1/2 on 7 then across the bottom to NE &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice 1 and 3 are over and 2 is under&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jroIJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First 3 steps&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T19:21:16.077" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T19:21:16.077" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24000" CreationDate="2014-08-04T21:27:31.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following on from Johnny's answer of using compressed air, how about getting one of those computer air duster cans (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Star-Duster-Compressed-Flammable-400ml/dp/B000O1HRHE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1407187184&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=air%20duster&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a bit like this one)&lt;/a&gt;, and a water bottle holder (a metal one with some flex in it, so you can re-adjust the size of the bottle that it can hold). One like this is a great example: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u7axM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Water Bottle Holder&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then put the air duster in the water bottle holder! It's a good way to hold it without having to rummage around for it in a bag when you see a spider!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I have no idea if these ones fit right now. I will check tomorrow as I have a can or two lying around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10939" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T21:27:31.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24039" CreationDate="2014-08-04T21:45:12.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR - Just about any square taper bottom bracket that has a 68mm shell and roughly 116mm spindle should work fine. You should be able to find one for very little money at either your LBS or online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, the derailleur mounting to the bottom bracket doesn't make a lick of difference in selecting your bottom bracket. I've never actually used one, but from what &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/derailers-front.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown says&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=shimano%20e-type%20front%20derailleur&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=gPvfU_tvwZPIBN6PgfgM&amp;amp;ved=0CAoQ_AUoAw&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=675&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;images&lt;/a&gt; I've found, it seems like it's just a ring that is held in place between the bottom bracket and its shell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are four things to worry about when replacing your bottom bracket: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The threading &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shell width&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spindle type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spindle length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bottom bracket appears to have standard English threading. This is by far the most common type of threading on the market. Just make sure that they one you buy has English threading (or, at least, doesn't list some other type of threading) and you'll be good on that front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shell width is the &quot;68&quot; in that 68x116 measurement that you mentioned. 68 and 73mm are the most common shell sizes. Many bottom brackets are sold to fit either one, some are specific to one or the other. The universal ones have a spacer that you just leave out for a 68mm shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bottom bracket appears to be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;square taper&lt;/a&gt; bottom bracket. This means that the spindle is square and tapered. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; has an excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/images/bbsx4-labeled.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;image comparing different bottom bracket spindle types&lt;/a&gt;. You're lucky in that square taper bottom brackets are both common and inexpensive. There are also varying lengths of taper. Yours appears to be a JIS square taper, which is again, incredibly common and inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you need the spindle length to match (more or less). The spindle length is the &quot;116&quot; in your measurement. I say it needs to more or less match because often have some wiggle room on a geared bike. Whether or not you have wiggle room, and how much you have, will depend on a lot of other factors. If you can, it's easiest to get an exact match. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of completeness, I should mention that there are also &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=external%20bottom%20bracket&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=SvjfU-bpIY6jyATYx4CwDg&amp;amp;ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=675&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;external bottom brackets&lt;/a&gt;. But those are a whole different ball of wax designed to work with a completely different crankset and probably not worth worrying about in your present situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T21:45:12.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24039" CreationDate="2014-08-04T23:18:18.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front derailleur you are describing is called an &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E-Type&lt;/a&gt; front derailleur. This means that you have to be careful when selecting a bottom bracket to ensure that you get one that is compatible or you need to alter your chainline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to a bottom bracket having:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spindle length equivalent to current BB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;68mm shell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;English threaded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;square taper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to maintain a symmetrical bottom bracket you need a bottom bracket with the spindle offset to compensate for the width of the e-type plate. These are identified with a -E mark, such as BB-UN25-E and are still available but hard to find and more a specialised product. Here is the 117mm version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSIQx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bb-un25-e&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are more difficult to find so there are options which would include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a bottom bracket such as the BB-UN55 below which has a lip on the drive side which would secure the e-type plate (I can't comment if this would be big enough to hold your FD). This would create an asymmetrical bottom bracket that would affect your chainline but actually be within tolerabe limits without to much impact (after adjusting your FD). There may also be an issue with the cup not being fully seated against the BB on the non drive side allowing flex. This would be the minimal cost option even above finding the right BB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lLq9y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BB-UN55&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move to a hollowtech ii external bottom bracket (would involve purchasing a new crankset) which would allow the e-type plate to be fitted with the supplied spacers. But not minimal cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T04:54:13.607" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T04:54:13.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13267" CreationDate="2014-08-05T00:45:58.003" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem, and with the use of reading glasses I finally &#xA;found a very small hole in my tire.  Use some super glue, JB Weld or similar to fill the hole in the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13276" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T03:50:55.543" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T03:50:55.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23229" CreationDate="2014-08-05T02:31:49.273" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point of the National Bike Registry, and similar schemes, isn't so much to prevent theft as it is to make it (sometimes) possible to recover a bike after it's been stolen.  Police departments do recover a lot of bikes; but, since it's usually impossible to trace ownership, most of them end up in police auctions.  The bike registries help to solve this problem, so that if your bike winds up in the hands of the police, there's at least a fair chance they'll be able to get it back to you.  If the tag is still on the bike, the cops (or a bike shop) won't have to look in five or six different databases.  They'll know which one to check.  But I agree it would be much better to have a single national (or better yet, worldwide) database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a nice bike, and I know that there's no single way to prevent losing it to the creeps who go around stealing bikes.  But the more I do, the better my chances are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13277" LastEditorUserId="13277" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T03:28:14.637" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T03:28:14.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24021" CreationDate="2014-08-05T03:50:30.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As PeteH commented, possibly a bad headset (could be worn headset or bearings need maintenance or replacement or the bearing may simply have been overtightened) As we ride, small corrections are constantly made, left, right,, left, right... When the handlebars/fork can't turn smoothly, these corrections become exaggerated - too much to the left, then too much to the right. Grasp the frame and lift the front wheel off the ground; very gently turn the handle bars all the way left and right. If you feel any roughness, catching, binding, etc., then you need to take a look at the bearings and headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T03:50:30.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12432" CreationDate="2014-08-05T12:45:42.480" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done this but the wheel does not sit central in the forks therefore the brake block shimms need to be adjusted to suit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13282" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T12:45:42.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24056" CreationDate="2014-08-05T18:38:05.240" Score="14" ViewCount="61808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Shimano XT rear derailleur. It is part of a 2x10 drivetrain. How can I find out if it is a medium or a long cage one? The picture below shows the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbbL2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2021-04-21T12:20:11.397" Title="How can you identify if a Shimano rear derailleur is medium or long cage?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18814" CreationDate="2014-08-05T19:06:51.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experience with DNP freewheels (7 speed, 11-28) and KMC 6-7 speed chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had exactly the same chain slip problem (literally word for word) with chain slipping and managed to fix it with great deal of attention to the derailleur setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might think that your rear derailleur setup is good because of the evidence provided by good shifting. That observation might hold true for a different freewheel; for the DNP, the setup has to be ridiculously good, beyond merely exhibiting good shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DNP freewheels seem to be machined such that the chain skips easily.  The result is that jockey wheel (upper pulley) has to be set up to track the freewheel's cogs &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; closely so that there is a large amount of &quot;chain wrap&quot; (the proportion of the cog's circumference that is meshed with the chain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jockey wheel position can be tuned with the &quot;B-tension&quot; adjustment in your derailleur. If the derailleur has no such adjustment, then you have to resort to drilling a custom hole for the spring through the body of the hanger, which is what I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why the problem is worse when you shift the front derailleur to the lower rings is two-fold. One is that you have more leverage, so you're generating more chain tension when you mash the pedals. The other is that the increased chain slack will cause the jockey wheel to droop a little bit more, reducing the amount of &quot;chain wrap&quot;. (Experiment: shift the rear derailleur to the smallest cog, and then observe the difference in the jockey wheel position when you shift the front derailleur.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the strict setup, there is no chain skip or slip under load whatsoever. I can stand on the pedals while climbing a hill and mash with confidence. On the highest two gears (smallest sprockets), I have a full 180 degrees of chain wrap: meaning that the chain entering the sprocket is parallel to the chain leaving: both are horizontal, and so about half the sprocket's circumference (180 degrees) is meshed with the chain. The jockey wheel is so close to the freewheel that it almost makes contact. This is a much tighter setup than what I see on the average bicycle (something I've been paying attention to lately when looking at any bicycle), yet the chain does not slip on the average bicyle. Now if I increase the B tension so that the jockey wheel droops by just an inch, the chain will start to show signs of slipping (climbing a hill, using the middle ring and second smallest sprocket). With confidence, I can pin the blame on the DNP freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a different but related note, DNP freewheels will also wear out fast. I'm on my second one; the first one did not even last a year!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, in spite of the fix (or workaround, if you will), the fact remains that the DNP freewheel will be garbage in about a year, and that the stock, original, heavily used freewheel on the bike (an inexpensive bike at that) never exhibited chain skip and slip problem regardless of the derailleur being out of adjustment, and that its teeth still appear taller than those of a brand new DNP freewheel.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If anyone knows where I can get a 7 speed thread-on-freewheel not made by DNP, in the range 11-25 to 11-28, I would love to hear about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastEditorUserId="5088" LastEditDate="2014-08-19T22:59:53.873" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T22:59:53.873" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24052" CreationDate="2014-08-05T20:36:07.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not believe there is any such thing as a &quot;medium&quot; cage XT derailleur, just long and extended.  Medium and short cages are typically the domain of road/touring drive trains, as they use more compact gearing on the cassettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All modern XT derailleurs appear to have can take the same cassette range (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/Deore_XT_Black/product.-code-RD-M786-GS-L.-type-.rd_mountain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/Deore_XT_Black/product.-code-RD-M780-SGS-L.-type-.rd_mountain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/Deore_XT_Black/product.-code-RD-M786-SGS-L.-type-.rd_mountain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;three&lt;/a&gt;) while some have a little extra capacity to pick up more chain slack for multiple chainring set ups. (Among a few other subtle differences.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATED&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I stand corrected (thank you cherouvim).  What I termed long and extended appear to be officially termed &quot;medium&quot; and &quot;long&quot;.  A list of definitions can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7264/how-to-calculate-the-capacity-of-a-rear-derailleur&quot;&gt;How to calculate the capacity of a rear derailleur&lt;/a&gt;. I leave the above &lt;strong&gt;incorrect&lt;/strong&gt; answer intact for reference purpoes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the OP, here are pictures of a the Shimano XT derailleur (RD-M786) in both a medium and long version.  Looking at the cage in your derailleur it is more consistent with long cage model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Shimano XT RD-M786-GS-L (Medium)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gc980.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Shimano XT RD-M786-SGS-L (Long)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sHtnf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T17:47:18.527" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24052" CreationDate="2014-08-05T20:57:23.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very simply, short cages look quite short and long cages look quite long, especially so when compared side by side ( indeed, your photo is of a long cage ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short cages typically have just a centimeter or so of space between the two pulleys, and well, you can see that a long cage has considerably more to accommodate the extra chain length needed for larger rings in either the front or back ( or both the front and back! ). If you were in a position to actually choose between buying one or the other, your LBS would surely go a long way to help, or you would have to do a considerable amount of reading: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9nh4t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T20:57:23.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24052" CreationDate="2014-08-05T21:41:59.067" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture is a RD-M780-SGS long cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano have three codes for rear derailleur length:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short - SS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medium - GS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long - SGS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of where this is printed on the RD though so not so helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However Shimano only have one non-clutched XT Dyna-Sys (10 speed) RD the RD-M780-SGS (long cage 43t capacity). The clutched (shadow+) RDs come in GS (medium 35t cap) and SGS (long 43t cap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saint derailleurs come in SS (short 23t cap with cassette extender) and GS (medium 37t cap with cassette extender) for more gravity focused 1x set ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T22:01:48.490" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T22:01:48.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8946" CreationDate="2014-08-05T21:57:32.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine was making noise from the seat post.  It got fixed, but still, when I apply pressure on the pedals in the higher gears, I hear strange noise that I can't tell from where it is coming, it is annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13288" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T21:57:32.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8939" CreationDate="2014-08-06T08:18:55.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this issue persists (i.e. your tubes keep failing near the valve stem), then you likely have a &quot;sharp&quot; rim or burred valve hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can try and file this down a bit, I've always found it simpler to get about 4cm x 2cm of old tube, cut a 5mm slice into it, and then push the valve through this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will mean that you have tube =&gt; valve through old tube =&gt; valve through sharp valve hole. Any damage will be done only to the old tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10278" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-08-06T12:50:42.497" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T12:50:42.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-06T12:35:11.100" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to simplify the colors on my bike using white on components above the top-tube (saddle, seatpost, stem, cyclocross brake lever, LED lights, grips).  I am having a hard time finding a white cyclocross brake lever.  I have found them in black and silver and several colors in anodized alum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know where I can find white cyclocross brake levers?&#xA;White LED light?&#xA;White seatpost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13293" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T17:01:16.127" Title="White bike components" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24059" CreationDate="2014-08-06T13:04:19.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Searching on Google, I found plenty white LED lights such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/product/5034-783/mec-galaxy-dual-usb-redwhite-led-bike-light/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.  The problem might be that color is not a good criteria for selecting bike lights. The most important factors being reliability, light output, and battery life.  You should first choose a light that meets those criteria before worrying about color. Most of the high end stuff I see is either black or silver. Perhaps silver could be a good compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as seat posts go. Just go a Google Image Search for white seat post and you'll find many different models from high quality manufacturers. For brake levers, are you asking about drop bar levers or interrupter levers? You can get replacement brake hoods in white, but I don't think I've seen any drop bar or interrupter levers that are white. Here again, you may want to use silver as a compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option being get unpainted aluminium and paint it yourself.  I'm not sure how good of a result this would get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T13:04:19.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8939" CreationDate="2014-08-06T13:34:02.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If using a Presta valve this can be caused by having the stem nut done up to tightly (effectively trying to pull he stem through the rim)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the case here, but maybe useful for future searchers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11292" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T13:34:02.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24064" CreationDate="2014-08-06T13:55:33.233" Score="2" ViewCount="1756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a ride with a guy who had a bike like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandsmachine.com/a_rod_r2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sandsmachine.com/a_rod_r2.htm&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a regular road bike (Allow) that you could disassemble and fit in a case slightly larger than the wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He said he used his bike for Triathlons and other riding events. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in configuring my own bike to work this way (Regular road bike, steel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2014-08-06T17:31:41.660" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T03:14:12.810" Title="Traveling road bikes that disassemble" Tags="&lt;travelling&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24062" CreationDate="2014-08-06T14:08:05.660" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mechanism that allows disassembling the frame is called an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_Torque_Coupling&quot;&gt;S&amp;amp;S Coupling, Bicycle Torque Coupling or BTC&lt;/a&gt;.  Searching for bikes with this mechanism should allow you find other models of bikes that can be disassembled in the same manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T14:08:05.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8131" CreationDate="2014-08-06T18:14:22.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have what most people would call an extreme forward tilt on my saddle. I use a  racing saddle with a large cut out. The reason I use this angle is to stop me getting pressure on the perenium. I have been riding like this for around twenty years to the derision of &quot;experts&quot; wherever I go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently rode the new forest epic. My first sportive with no training in 6.01 with no ill effects and no nasty numb areas. I sit on the top wide edge of the seat and the nose drops away at that point and makes no contact with sensitive areas. My riding position is aggressive but feels comfortable with my body almost acting like a stressed member with weight spread between between balls of feet on pedals, hands on hoods and bum on top edge of saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand there may well be loads of studies done on bike fit and there may well be a bible on the ultimate riding position, but maybe more time should be spent looking at &quot;people&quot;in relation to bike fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love riding my bike. I have a reasonably decent boardman roadbike. I do not own a car so I use my bike to commute, for recreation and fitness. I love my wacky but effective riding position!!!? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy your riding everyone:-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13296" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T18:14:22.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-07T09:06:43.633" Score="2" ViewCount="5402" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear derailleur barrel adjuster has unscrewed completely and now I can't get it back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely that I've damaged something here, or is there some special technique to screw in barrel adjusters that I don't know about!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6182" LastActivityDate="2020-05-25T03:40:38.647" Title="Shimano Tiagra Rear Derailleur - Barrel Adjuster Won't Screw In" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16571" CreationDate="2014-08-07T11:04:50.290" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a Felt F75 myself, I would recommend the following upgrade path from stock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clipless pedals&lt;/strong&gt; They take some getting used to, but behold the extra power and comfort!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tyres (and tubes)&lt;/strong&gt;. Vredestein Fortezza Tricomp or similar lightweight folding tyres will give noticeably better grip than stock equipment. Latex inner tubes will smooth the ride and reduce rolling resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brake pads&lt;/strong&gt;. Kool Stop Salmon brake pads will give noticeably better braking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wheels&lt;/strong&gt;. You'll want to spend at least 300USD to get a noticeable improvement over the stock wheelset. (I went with Campagnolo Sciroccos myself.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GPS bike computer&lt;/strong&gt; With heart-rate and cadence sensors. The extra data is fun to watch and will help your training. (I recommend the Garmin Edge 510.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clothing&lt;/strong&gt;. Spend some money on quality kit. You'll be more comfortable and maybe even faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saddle&lt;/strong&gt;. The stock saddle is not bad, but more comfortable and lighter options can be had. (I went for the Charge Knife myself.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike&lt;/strong&gt; At this point you may as well upgrade to a full carbon frame with Ultegra-level or better groupset than apply further upgrades to your current bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power meter&lt;/strong&gt;. By all accounts a valuable training tool, but most expensive. Fit one to your next bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13080" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T11:04:50.290" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-07T14:49:02.567" Score="2" ViewCount="1884" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my innertube and took a photo of the tyre mark to show the guy in the bike shop for the size. It says 700 x 45c. I bought the innertube he gave me based on this and only checked the size when I got home (yes I know, stupid me), size 700 x 35c - 44c. This range is obviously smaller (but only just) than what my tyre asks for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully it's not a problem but wanted to check before opening the packet in case I need to return it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think? Thanks for your help in advance&#xA;Angela&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T15:19:10.510" Title="Will an innertube for 700x35c-44c be ok for a bike that says it needs size 700x45c?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24069" CreationDate="2014-08-07T15:13:04.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;44c versus 45c is not enough to worry about.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that you would need to do this but after you have stretched it you should not try and put it in a 35c as it would be hard to do so without a fold in the tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-07T15:19:10.510" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T15:19:10.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24059" CreationDate="2014-08-07T16:51:17.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A light  &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007VG2WP2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Serfas&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.serfas.com/products/view/152/referer:products%7Cindex%7Clights%7Cheadlights%7Cpage:3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;maybe white&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 3T Dorilo seatpost that is white with some red.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-07T17:01:16.127" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T17:01:16.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20594" CreationDate="2014-08-07T19:02:29.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use a spreadsheet to make stem, spacers and handlebar calculations. I find it makes best sense when comparing one setup, that exists and I have used, with another that might be real or hypothetical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example where I'm considering changing the Pro Vibe 7s on my track bike to a Deda Newton deep drop and if I need to change the stem and/or spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Hsjcljzw8tRC71vuNla21oRKlH9LxmibItIqrdevlnc/edit?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Hsjcljzw8tRC71vuNla21oRKlH9LxmibItIqrdevlnc/edit?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It includes the relevant trigonometry in the Excel formulae.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13309" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T19:02:29.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24076" CreationDate="2014-08-07T19:58:33.900" Score="2" ViewCount="42315" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is best for which use, advantage, or application, especially for climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5392" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T18:31:17.613" Title="diference between 170mm 172mm 175mm crank arm length on road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-08-07T22:08:18.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24075" CreationDate="2014-08-07T20:13:28.400" Score="5" ViewCount="8791" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building my first wheelset.  The front wheel went without a hitch - nice and true both radially and laterally.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the rear wheel has a pronounced (5mm) bulge over about 1/4 of it. The rest of the wheel is pretty much true. As far as I can tell, I should be tightening the spokes around the bulge area, but they're already significantly tighter than the rest of the wheel, and the bulge isn't coming out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do at this point?  Is it worth loosening the spokes everywhere else so that the rest of the rim settles out? Wouldn't that bring the spoke tension to be even less even?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T08:20:16.023" Title="Truing an 'out of round' wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24074" CreationDate="2014-08-07T20:44:39.430" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I get stuck wheelbuilding, I loosen every spoke one turn, walk away and come back in a few hours or the next day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst thing you can do is keep doing something that is not providing the results you expect. It is completely possible to overtighten spokes enough that they stretch significantly under the tension. You can even break them with a bow and arrow like result that can be slightly terrifying. ( Fortunately the spoke was pointed at the ceiling and not me when that happened. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of wheelbuilding is getting a feel for how much tension the spokes will support. There is a point at which tightening them further just does no good and actually makes the wheel worse, not better. In the past when rims where just boxes made as light as possible and spokes were more burly, you'd get wonky things happening to the true to let you know when you'd gone too far. Now most rims have enough structual shape that they won't deform that way and the spokes are much lighter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience out of round truing almost always requires adjusting all 4 quarters of the wheel. ( i.e. the trough as well as the bulge. ) You can't fix&#xA;it by just working on one section. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If tightening stops working, it's time to take some tension out of the entire build. Start by loosening the spokes you've been working on a half turn at least and then start loosening other spokes to achieve the affect you want. If that still doesn't work, loosen all the spokes and start over.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T20:44:39.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24073" CreationDate="2014-08-07T21:12:46.567" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Believe it or not in the range of lengths you are looking at there is very little scientific support for there being any real discernible differences in performance (both in absolute power and metabolic efficiency).  For the lengths you are considering I would suggest this is largely a personal preference choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Crank length and maximal power&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we are concerned about maximal power output,  there appears to be no significant difference for the crank length range commonly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11417428&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Martin and Spirduso 2001)&lt;/a&gt;. The study used 16 &lt;em&gt;male&lt;/em&gt; cyclists were tested for maximal power across crank lengths of 120, 145,170,195, and 220mm.  Only the extreme (120, 220mm) showed a significantly lower maximal power, but the effect size is small (around 4%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gvvgR.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Figure 1 - Maximal power as a function of  crank length (reproduced from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11417428&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Martin and Spirduso (2001)&lt;/a&gt;).  Be careful of the Y-Axis scale, the effect size is actually small and error bars are large indicating a lot of individual variability.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Choosing a crank length for optimal power&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11417428&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Martin and Spirduso (2001)&lt;/a&gt; also attempted to create a formula for optimal crank length based on fitting a 2nd-order polynomial regressions to the subjects best power (response) as a function of the ratio of leg, tibia, and femur lengths to crank ratios (think inverse U cuvrve).  Leg and tibia lengths had support ($R^2$ of 20.5 and 21.1%), but the effect size was small (around  3%) and the relationship had a number of outliers.  That said, the regressions suggested a crank length that is 20% of your leg length or 41% of the tibia length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As a side note, in terms of effect size, you can gain 5% through gear selection, using larger cogs (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spicer, 2000&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Crank length and metabolic efficiency&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cyclists are not producing maximal power on their ride.  Instead we tend to spend most of our time at sub-optimal output levels. In this case we might be more interested in the metabolic cost of cycling, and optimize the setup to be the most metabolically efficient. &lt;a href=&quot;http://jap.physiology.org/content/93/3/823.short&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McDaniel et al 2002&lt;/a&gt;, investigated the impact of a number of factors (including crank length) on metabolic cost. 9 cyclists were used in the study.  A smaller number of crank lengths were used (145, 170, 195 mm) compared to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11417428&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Martin and Spirduso (2001)&lt;/a&gt;.  Pedal rates were also investigated (40, 60, 80, 100 rpm).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, mechanical power strongly predicted metabolic cost (R^2 = 0.95; not surprising) and the authors used the metabolism residuals (left over variability) to investigate the impact of crank lengths, pedal rates, and pedal speed.  The used step-wise regression to attempt to build the best descriptive model (personally I think small-sample sized corrected AIC ranking would have been more appropriate).  They found independently each had some descriptive power, but overall the best descriptor was pedal speed (combination of crank length and pedal rate (cadence)).  Once pedal speed was accounted for the other factors (e.g., crank length) provided little descriptive power. Note that all of these factors will be related (i.e., &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multicollinearity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;multicollinearity&lt;/a&gt;) so it is not surprising on their own there would be some descriptive power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of metabolic cost, it would seem your pedal speed is what matters.  To quote the author:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The main finding of this investigation was that mechanical power&#xA;  output and pedal speed accounted for 99% of the variation in metabolic&#xA;  cost at intensities below LT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that LT stands for Lactic Threshold (aka maximal aerobic capacity).  More importantly, they follow up and state (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mechanical power output alone accounted for 95% of the variation in&#xA;  metabolic cost, suggesting that, even with our wide range of&#xA;  pedaling rates, pedal speeds, and crank lengths, &lt;em&gt;muscles’ ability to&#xA;  convert chemical energy to mechanical work was remarkably stable.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Choosing your length&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The take home is our body will adapt to the commonly used crank lengths, so you need to select base on other factors. While some will argue that  performance gains are possible,  these for the most part appear to be small, on the order of small drive train efficiency gains (e.g., using larger rear cog; see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spicer, 2000&lt;/a&gt;).  A common theme to me is that individual variability seems to be a much larger effect, therefore you will need to consider your personal situation.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to suggest one potential selection criteria I would suggest considering if you like to spin or mash your gears.  If you like to spin, you will likely want a shorter crank length so you can turn your legs over faster.  If you like to mash, a longer crank length will likely feel better as you have more leverage.   As an aside, spinning can also be more efficient as you tend to use a larger cog in the back, which is known to be more efficient (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spicer, 2000&lt;/a&gt;). Why on earth modern cassettes use such small cogs I have no idea! I suspect weight at the cost of efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other SE questions covering this subject.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23352/what-is-the-effect-of-changing-length-of-crank-arms&quot;&gt;What is the effect of changing length of crank arms?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16876/why-such-a-tiny-difference-in-crankarm-length&quot;&gt;Why such a tiny difference in crankarm length?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Reading&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good summary of the science, in a readable format, is available on the Cervelo website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/ask-the-engineers/crank-length.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/ask-the-engineers/crank-length.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T18:31:17.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="660" CreationDate="2014-08-07T21:52:06.663" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree with the selected answer as most of the provided links are simply opinion without any analytical backing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of choosing a crank length on the basis of performance, there is very little scientific support for there being any real discernible differences widely used crank lengths (160-180 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an overview of some of the scientific results, see this set of PowerPoint slides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plan2peak.com/files/32_article_JMartinCrankLengthPedalingTechnique.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.plan2peak.com/files/32_article_JMartinCrankLengthPedalingTechnique.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well, a good summary of the science, in a readable format, is available on the Cervelo website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/ask-the-engineers/crank-length.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/ask-the-engineers/crank-length.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in terms of peak power output power output &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11417428&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Martin and Spirduso (2001)&lt;/a&gt; found no significant difference between crank lengths of 145, 170 and 195mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves the choice more as personal preference which may entail a number of details from fit to riding style and comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other SE questions covering this subject.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23352/what-is-the-effect-of-changing-length-of-crank-arms&quot;&gt;What is the effect of changing length of crank arms?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16876/why-such-a-tiny-difference-in-crankarm-length&quot;&gt;Why such a tiny difference in crankarm length?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24073/diference-between-170mm-172mm-175mm-crank-arm-length-on-road-bike/24076#24076&quot;&gt;diference between 170mm 172mm 175mm crank arm length on road bike&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T23:49:35.723" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24062" CreationDate="2014-08-07T22:46:58.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how you will use your bike there are a few alternatives for travelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For touring: It might be worth while considering bikes that come with a coupler installed already such as the Surly Trucker Deluxe (&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/trucker_deluxe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/trucker_deluxe&lt;/a&gt;). I've seen the frame online for around $1000. Ritchey also makes a similar frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For commuting: With a more commuter minded focus Montague makes bikes that fold in half though they're going to be larger than your wheels even while folded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For racing: Buy a bike specific travel bag such as the EVOC bag. If you really want to race hard you'll want a race specific bike not one with extra mechanisms made for traveling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13311" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T22:46:58.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24080" CreationDate="2014-08-08T00:19:02.437" Score="3" ViewCount="4766" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my first bike as an adult with the intents of biking to work. This bike is brand new, is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/700c-Schwinn-Admiral-Hybrid-Men-s-Leisure-Bike-Matte-Red/26999373&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwinn Admiral 700c&lt;/a&gt; from Walmart. I get it home and whenever I shift into first gear the chain slips off and runs into the spokes. How can I fix this? I'm brand new to bikes and want to know how to take care of them myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happens regardless of the amount of force exerted. I can reproduce it 100% of the time. Brand new bike, no wear on chain or cassette (or freewheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13312" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-08-08T00:34:13.177" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T01:48:45.707" Title="Brand New bike, chain slips into spokes on first gear" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24079" CreationDate="2014-08-08T00:43:57.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally this would be a simple &quot;take it back to the bike shop&quot; situation, as the bike has not been assembled correctly. But unfortunately you probably have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/887/7044&quot;&gt;bicycle shaped object&lt;/a&gt; (BSO) that you bought in a box (or was assembled by the proverbial &quot;moron in a hurry&quot;). It's likely that even a BSO can be made to work after a fashion. However you may find that a bike shop will refuse to work on your BSO because they are of such low quality that the shop will be unable to offer warranty on its work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest problem is that the limit screw on the rear derailleur is not set correctly. This is slightly tricky to explain so if this doesn't help try &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's detailed explaination&lt;/a&gt;. Basically, there are two &quot;limit adjustment screws&quot; (one for each limit of the travel) and the one that sets the limit towards the wheel needs to be screwed in a little:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bytfD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;limit screw diagram&quot;&gt; and &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jL30F.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shift to the largest cog at the back, then &lt;strong&gt;without spinning the pedals&lt;/strong&gt; move the gear shift (twist grip) all the way (to the point where the chain normally falls into the wheel). Now turn the screw until the derailleur pulley lines up with the largest cog on the freewheel. If the derailleur doesn't move when you turn the screw, you're either turning the wrong screw (put it back!) or you're turning it the wrong way (reverse!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note on the left hand diagram above there's a line from the pulley to the right hand side of the smallest cog. You're trying to get the mirror image of that line - from the derailler puller to the left-most cog and probably a little to the left of the cog if you want to be really fussy about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you're unlucky&lt;/strong&gt; this is not the problem at all, and instead you're mounted the derailleur wrong (but normally they're already mounted inside the box), or something has been bent or broken in transit. Maybe use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=rear%20derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google image search&lt;/a&gt; to look at pictures to make sure it's not something obvious in how it's attached. If it's bent things get tricky, as there are tools to help re-align it and doing that by eye is unlikely to work well (and could break something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, try setting the limit screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that works, you might find the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/457/how-do-i-adjust-my-rear-derailleur-shimano-sis-when-it-is-only-slightly-out&quot;&gt;adjust rear derailleur&lt;/a&gt; answer helps with the next step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T01:48:45.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T01:48:15.820" Score="0" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIxcl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy, objective way to tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10972" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-08-08T01:52:27.927" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T02:22:13.403" Title="Is this a short cage or long cage rear derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-08-08T11:55:09.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24081" CreationDate="2014-08-08T02:22:13.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The objective way to tell is by calculating the total capacity and matching that to the make and model of the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7264/how-to-calculate-the-capacity-of-a-rear-derailleur&quot;&gt;This has an excellent answer&lt;/a&gt; for calculating derailleur capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T02:22:13.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24085" CreationDate="2014-08-08T03:19:01.850" Score="0" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to remove my rear brake caliper to put a fender/mudguard clamp on. I've removed the rear nut and I assume the brake should then slide straight out. But it won't. It is definitely a little loose, it will rotate freely and has maybe 1mm of play, but even putting a reasonable amount of force on it, it will not slide out of the hole in the rear frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing? I assume I don't need to unscrew the caliper out of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Sorry about my woeful care of this question. I meant to put up some photos and explain in more detail, but didn't get around to it :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end I unscrewed the &quot;rear&quot; nut (closest to the front of the bike) a little and tapped it lightly with a wrench and the caliper did come out. Turns out it was just a very tight fit. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T23:37:22.577" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T23:37:22.577" Title="How do I remove my Campagnolo Veloce rear brake caliper?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24083" CreationDate="2014-08-08T03:41:51.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you're exactly wrong, unfortunately. The caliper is held in place by the nut at the front - on the opposite side of the brake bridge to the bulk of the caliper. What you've removed is the nut that holds the whole assembly together (or at least one of the nuts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Huc2X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nut you want to undo is at the top of this image, the one that attaches the brake to the frame. Note that it's recessed so you will probably have to slide the brake out of the frame and attach the fender to the brake side of the frame rather than the nut side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T03:41:51.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24083" CreationDate="2014-08-08T08:40:19.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing as you've removed the nut, you could try to insert a punch through the mounting hole, and gently tap it a few times to try and free it. I reckon there's dirt, mud, and perhaps rust in there that's causing it to stick. A picture would be useful if something else is amiss, but it's hard to imagine anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-08-08T09:26:17.343" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T09:26:17.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23034" CreationDate="2014-08-08T09:12:39.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have received confirmation from Garmin support that the Garmin Edge Touring and Garmin Edge Touring Plus cannot do car-style routing, pedestrian/walking directions, nor straight-line navigation.  They say the Edge 8xx and 1000 can do it, just as the old Edge 605/705 could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be documented in the product literature, but it is not.  Bicycle tourists beware: you probably should not buy the Edge Touring for actual touring.  More like for casual cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T09:12:39.123" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T11:04:35.523" Score="2" ViewCount="1019" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've accidentally lost the bleed valve in a front-brake &quot;bleed gone wrong&quot; afternoon and was wondering whether there's anything detrimental in just using a 6mm bolt instead for the time being?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11442" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T18:41:39.973" Title="Can I use a 6mm threaded bolt instead of a bleed valve for hydraulic brakes?" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23034" CreationDate="2014-08-08T11:07:52.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be possible to produce some custom maps based on OpenStreetMap data. And you can change the definitions of road types, which will affect the routing on the Garmin device.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eg if something is tagged as a motorway in OpenStreetMap, you could make it into a cyclepath on the Garmin maps. So they Edge Touring would route along it in cycling mode. You would have to experiment to figure out what type of roads the Edge Touring prefers for routing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also create some Garmin maps without any routing data. Then the Edge won't be able to route along roads, so it should just give you a straight line to the destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creating Garmin maps can be a bit complicated. The usual software is &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Mkgmap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mkgmap&lt;/a&gt;. Look at creating custom styles, which define how OpenStreetMap tags are converted to features on the Garmin map. A useful guide at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cferrero.net/maps/maps_index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cferro.net - Custom Garmin maps&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most modern Garmins, you can load multiple maps onto an SD card, and then select which one to use. So you could load maps for different routing modes, and choose which one to enable. I'm not sure whether the Edge Touring supports this. Otherwise, you can put the maps on separate MicroSD cards, and swap between them as required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T11:07:52.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T15:23:54.697" Score="2" ViewCount="36828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am helping a friend fix his bike that he got for free. Everything went well, except that I cant raise the saddle. The seatpost is really stuck in the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clamp was easily removed. When I tried to turn the saddle only the saddle itself is turning, and the seatpost remained stuck. I tightened the saddle bracket as hard as I could, and I managed to turn the seat post a few millimeters back and forth. But somehow it is even more stuck now and I can't move it at all. I am afraid that I will bend/break the bracket in the seat if I tighten it anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried with a pipe wrench and still couldn't twist it. Perhaps I will be able to if I have another person holding the bike so I have two hands for the wrench. I did manage to damage the surface of the seat post though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How would a professional remove the seatpost?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why is it even stuck? Can this happen because of rust, or is it more likely because the previous owner hammered a 30.2mm seatpost into a frame meant for 30mm? I can see at the Wikipediaartikel (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seat_post#Diameters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;) that both 29.6, 29.8, 30.0, 30.2 and 30.4mm are common sizes. As I don't have a precise caliper I can only tell you that it is approximately 30mm. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is because of rust, can I polish off the rust and use the same seatpost again? If so, should I polish the post or the internal part of the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H8sJx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6028" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-08-09T13:03:43.427" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T13:03:43.427" Title="How to remove completely stuck saddle post from frame" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-08-08T18:55:49.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24089" CreationDate="2014-08-08T15:40:18.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It may take a few days as it needs to work its way down.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or it may free it up in a few minutes.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risk you take with a lot of force with a pipe wrench is you bend the bike or brake off the post or get the post out of round.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should grease the seatpost to help prevent this.  If you don't bend the post then I would reuse it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is most likely rust.  You cannot hammer in an over sized seatpost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do sacrifice the seatpost and use a use a lot of force with a pipe wrench then don't have the pipe wrench close to the bike as you could get the post out of round and really jam it in there.  That may have happened when you got it to move a bit and then jammed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a couple comments of use heat and I don't disagree but I would hit it with penetrating oil for a couple days before I resorted to heat.  Not just once.  You need to hit every few hours with oil.  If you do go heat then heat gun before torch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-08T16:54:07.450" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T16:54:07.450" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24089" CreationDate="2014-08-08T15:41:51.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, for starters, I wouldn't worry too much about damaging the seat post--it's likely that you'll need a new one anyway.  Or you'll need to really buff the post off, and that will remove any scratches.  Eventually, though, I would recommend getting an aluminum post, that will help keep this from happening again (see my next point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, yes, it is almost certainly rusted together.  I would be very surprised to learn that someone had forced (successfully) a 30.2mm seat post in to a 30mm seat tube.  Particularly because there are no obvious deformations in either piece.  However, things rusting and sticking together is very common, but perhaps not in the bike world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, on to the crux of the question: how to get it apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're on to something using a pipe wrench to try to twist it free.  You should also use some sort of penetrating lubricant to help get it loose.  Personally I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-oz-Penetrating-Catalyst-Lubricant-16PB-THD/202597469&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PB Blaster&lt;/a&gt;, but WD-40 is similar.  Spray it down, and let it soak in for a few minutes (if you have the bottom bracket off, you may try turning the bike over and spraying it in to the bottom of the seat tube, might not hurt).  You can also try hitting the frame/post with a mallet to break it apart a bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this sounds like voodoo, but getting rusted stuff apart usually comes down to brute force and ignorance.  And lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really desperate you can heat the seat tube with a blow torch while you work the post loose, but that will risk blistering the paint on the frame (also lighting the PB Blaster on fire, so be careful with that).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Godspeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T15:41:51.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24089" CreationDate="2014-08-08T18:39:16.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend hitting the stuck seatpost with something like PB blaster for a while. If that doesn't work, I normally stick the seatpost in a vise and try to get some leverage on it that way (this is out of order with the tips of Sheldon). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon has 14 tips for removing a stuck seat post which you can see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for heating, I've found that sunlight provides enough heat in some areas to help with the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T18:39:16.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24089" CreationDate="2014-08-08T18:53:58.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem. I used vise grips and clamped down very tightly. I hit the vice grips with a hammer, repeatedly. This will jar it loose- it took me about 15 minutes. The bad news: when I did this with my bike, it left deep scratches on the post (the vice grips will come loose and need to be clamped down again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13316" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T18:53:58.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-08T21:29:04.543" Score="1" ViewCount="1486" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WpN3u.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;Would a 24 inch bent fork fit on a 20 inch frame? Is there even a 24 inch fork?  Would a 26 inch fit?  Also if it doesn't fit in could I just add to the 20 inch - would you be able to extend it making it look longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13318" LastEditorUserId="13319" LastEditDate="2014-08-09T00:08:17.580" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T02:53:44.393" Title="Lowrider style bent forks techniques" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18601" CreationDate="2014-08-08T22:51:02.393" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For 90% road carbon &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shocks plus:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - More travel&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shocks minus:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Heavy&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Absorb pedal energy&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Wear out   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon fork plus:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Light&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Comfortable&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Carbon fork minus:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Small travel    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride carbon frame and carbon fork mountain bike with low pressure tubeless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-09T13:09:05.847" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T13:09:05.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24112" CreationDate="2014-08-08T23:55:00.680" Score="3" ViewCount="2308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding home today (with clipless pedals; SPD) and noticed my ankle was twisting strangely with each rotation of my legs. I had just gotten to the top of a massive hill. I pulled off to the sidewalk and inspected my pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out that the pedal had begun to loosen (perhaps it was never tight enough?) and the force of me pedaling on it had bent it a bit. I was quite upset because I was still 20 minutes away from home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried getting the pedal off, but I was unable to loosen it (with a wrench, or hex key from the side) What should I do? I'm thinking of taking a powerdrill and forcing it out. Will this be an okay solution? Will my crank arm be damaged at all? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQ16y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as you can see the bend is very imperceptible. You can really tell when you pedal on it though. From the picture you can also see how loose the pedal got when it started to bend. Do you guys think there is hope in saving the crank? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the advice guys, I'm going to take this to my LBS and see what they say. I'll let you know what happens!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Turns out that the pedals were not installed tight enough and it resulted in some cross-threading. My LBS said that the crank wasn't damaged too much. He re-threaded the crank and said that it should be okay, but that I should watch out in case that happened again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11513" LastEditorUserId="11513" LastEditDate="2014-08-10T23:18:59.527" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T01:31:57.993" Title="Loose pedal bent under pressure" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24099" CreationDate="2014-08-09T00:07:54.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, when a pedal works its way loose and is ridden for a decent amount of time, it does strip (and thus ruin) the crank arm. The only way you can be sure that the crank arm is good is to inspect it. So I'd guess your crank arm is damaged (especially if its at the point where you can't loosen the pedal). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A picture of how its bent in would be helpful, but theres a decent chance that both parts will have to be written off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T00:07:54.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-09T04:37:14.200" Score="3" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;My front hub axle has already frozen when riding extreme downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the hub, it looks like the right hand cone has self-tightened. Can you explain why this happens, and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13320" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2014-08-09T11:07:56.750" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T11:59:34.793" Title="Why front hub axle sticks/freezes when riding extreme downhill" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24102" CreationDate="2014-08-09T12:33:04.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is supposed to be a locknut on the axle, as well as the cone.  When adjusting the bearings it's important to get the locknut &lt;em&gt;quite tight&lt;/em&gt; against the cone, so that the pair cannot rotate on the threaded axle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've found, if the cone can rotate then it will, from the rotation of the wheel.  The left side will get looser (but will be somewhat limited from getting real loose by the axle-fixing nut or skewer) while the right side will get tighter (with nothing to prevent it from getting very tight).  If both move together the axle will &quot;migrate&quot; right over time.  If the left side is prevented from moving (either due to the fixing nut or a properly set locknut) then the bearing will get tighter and tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tighten the locknut properly you generally need a thin &quot;cone wrench&quot; of the appropriate size, to fit the narrow flats of the cone so it doesn't turn as the locknut is tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a little tricky doing this, as, when you tighten the locknut, the bearing adjustment is inevitably changed slightly.  So you have to slightly misadjust the bearing, then tighten the locknut and hope that the bearing is then properly adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T12:33:04.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="418" CreationDate="2014-08-09T13:25:21.217" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a small butane torch, heat the seat post till it breaks free from the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13323" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T13:25:21.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24110" CreationDate="2014-08-09T14:04:26.780" Score="2" ViewCount="1456" Body="&lt;p&gt;See picture attached of a point in the rear derallier cable routing - should I put something in there to prevent rubbing (I can't fit any brake or gear housing in there - so if so what should I use?), or is the cable fine going naked through the braze-on?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ditto for the other side and the front derallier, which goes through a series of curves and up into the derallier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tynrm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9031" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T20:19:30.860" Title="Cable routing around bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;cable&gt;&lt;cable-routing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24105" CreationDate="2014-08-09T14:18:10.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the Jagwire  brand mountain cable sets come with a small diameter tube that cover all the exposed cables. I used the extra pieces on my old Giant. It did seem to make the cable movement smoother although it is subjective. I have never seen it available in single lengths. You could check your LBS to see if they have any short pieces or look in a local hardware/ home center for small diameter tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T14:18:10.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24099" CreationDate="2014-08-09T17:51:22.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hit it with a bigger wrench.  Right side should have normal threads.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lezyne.com/product-shptools-cncpedalrod.php#.U-ZfU-NdV8E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CNC Pedal Rod&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try a bigger wrench before drilling it out.  You have to drill exactly in the center.  You will need a press.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pedal bent there is a pretty good chance crank was damaged.  If the threads are just marred up a bit you might be able to clean them up by running a fresh pedal through from the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-09T18:21:29.633" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T18:21:29.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24099" CreationDate="2014-08-09T17:52:45.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had something similar (but more dramatic) happen and I lost the crank arm. It seems to be made of softer medal, luckily, than the pedal, which was absolutely fine and I still use. Crank arms are pretty cheap when compared to pedals anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage may all be to the crank arm. I agree with Batman, the crank arms is probably a write-off. But it's probably the case that your aluminum crank arm came up again your tempered steel pedal and the latter's threading has decisively won. Which is all for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say whatever your course of action, don't risk the pedal for the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8512/removing-a-stuck-pedal&quot;&gt;Removing a stuck pedal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10922" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T17:52:45.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3890" CreationDate="2014-08-09T18:43:35.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across a solid tire.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hutchinsontires.com/en/urban-touring/36-serenity.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SERENITY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T18:43:35.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24105" CreationDate="2014-08-09T20:04:31.210" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to put anything in there. If you're really concerned get teflon coated cables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those kinds of braze on cable guides were &quot;standard&quot; issue on well made lugged steel bikes until the early 80's or so. ( Cheap bikes came with bolt on versions of the same guides. ) They worked just fine even with old style cables that were much rougher than current cables. ( Current cables are pulled through a die to make them as round and smooth as possible and are also generally a much more rust resistant steel. ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2020-04-02T20:19:30.860" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T20:19:30.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3967" CreationDate="2014-08-09T22:49:35.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a SS fixed gear 3 times a week. My advice when the hill is hard and steep is to do what feels natural. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move as much of your weight forward as possible. I notice a huge difference when I take weight off the back wheel. The hill is already putting your weight more back. Counter this by putting your weight more on the front.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull up on the handlebars with your hands as far forward as possible. I use very long pursuit/bullhorn style bars and they help with the hills. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spend as much energy pulling up on the pedal as you do pushing down, or more. In other words, try to use different muscles in ways that are different from your normal pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13326" LastActivityDate="2014-08-09T22:49:35.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24099" CreationDate="2014-08-10T04:51:41.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, it's probably not so much bent but &lt;em&gt;cross-threaded&lt;/em&gt;. The threads fatigued because the shoulder on the pedal shaft wasn't seated on the crank arm. If you keep riding it as-is (not suggested) the pedal will fall off all by itself! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing in your favor: judging by the ~3mm gap between the shoulder and the crank arm, you might have about 3mm of un-molested threads on the crank arm. &lt;em&gt;When&lt;/em&gt; the pedal comes off, you can do as Blam suggested and run the pedal through from the inside to clean the damaged threads on the crank arm. Lubrication helps. As Nathan pointed out, it's very likely that the softer crank threads gave-way to the harder pedal threads. When re-installing the pedal make sure the shoulder on the pedal shaft seats firmly on the crank arm. It might hold long enough to arrange for a new crank arm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did it fatigue and why will it hold now? If the shoulder on the pedal shaft is not seated, the threads will alternate between compression &amp;amp; tension which worsens fatigue. If the shoulder &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; seated, &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the (remaining) threads are in tension working together. And, there's a moment/torque principle involved too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastEditorUserId="2123" LastEditDate="2014-08-11T01:31:57.993" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T01:31:57.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24117" CreationDate="2014-08-10T12:39:04.440" Score="1" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of January this year I purchased a power meter in an attempt to improve my training and general speed. I also performed the obligatory barrage of tests for 5 second, 1 minute, 5 minute and functional threshold power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results where not unsurprising but my peak one second power was. On two different occasions I recorded a 1853 watt peak and 1618 watt peak (with two weeks separating each tests). Upon seeing this I almost sent the power meter back as I just assumed the numbers were way out of my league and thus wrong. Some one later told me not to focus on the actual number as its of very little consequence when compared to other peoples?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time I had just finished 7 cyclo cross races and later on found out that my Shimano cranks (and stages power meter) had the wrong bottom bracket (causing the cranks to 'rock' from side to side) which could be the reason for the anomalous results. I then went into training my early base period and left training my sprint until a week ago. The highest peak test I have achieved since return is 1213 watts, would it be sensible to think I can retain that peak power again or is the possibility of those two peaks being bad data just too high?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WfjcE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WfjcE.png&quot; alt=&quot;mean maximal power curve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ooELh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ooELh.png&quot; alt=&quot;Strava power&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="7525" LastEditDate="2014-08-10T13:45:06.953" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T23:25:54.563" Title="Can I get my sprinting ability back?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="761" CreationDate="2014-08-10T14:08:22.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first answer is specific to where you live, I could not mentally justify the big ticket price for a power meter (let alone a garmin as well) but when I found that when stages power meters were coming out with they would be 40% cheaper in US than the would be in the UK/Europe. All this meant I had to do was to be able to afford the power meter, garmin for the data and the book training and racing with a power meter was buy and sell enough power meters to pay for it. This meant I had to trade roughly 20 power meters with a 10% profit margin on each sale to be able to afford my own gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I suppose my answer is you have to find a way to pay for it, whether it means selling your older gear and stock piling the cash slowly and little by little or being a bit entrepreneurial. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T14:08:22.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24115" CreationDate="2014-08-10T14:22:39.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bad data, no question whatsoever. Muscle fatigue develops quite rapidly, but even so there is minimal decrease in power for at least a handful of seconds. (Indeed, even the fitted curve you've shown seems to be in error, likely as a result of the way GC's fitting algorithm will chase &quot;noise&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13336" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T14:22:39.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24145" CreationDate="2014-08-10T19:29:55.127" Score="1" ViewCount="2076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2010 Gary Fisher Cronus, when I brought the bike in for a tune up this spring the bike shop told me they wouldn't do it because of cracks around the seat post. They pointed out that I had my seat post so high that it wasn't able to give adequate support. I will note that last year I would hear some loud &quot;pops&quot; when going over bumps. I always assumed it was a rock hitting my frame. The shop found the cracks with a light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went and bought a longer seat post and I have been riding the bike all season. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions: &#xA;Will my frame fall apart from underneath me? &#xA;If I can't see the cracks, are they still repairable?&#xA;Is there an easy way of getting an inventory of the cracks on the frame?&#xA;At what point is the frame just plane old and I need to tell my wife I need to buy a new one?&#xA;Finally: Is there a proper way to frame the question so my wife will say &quot;Yes&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last question was a joke :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T14:27:08.690" Title="Carbon frame cracks" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;crack&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-10T20:06:31.890" Score="2" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8tMuJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8tMuJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hill section&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The hill is 0.8km long with an average gradient of 13%. My cadence on my 46t-36t 11-25t 9 speed gear ratio starts at 80rpm and rapidly dips to 40 rpm. Is there a way to calculate what gear ratio is best for me to move to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="10723" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T22:46:01.167" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T22:46:01.167" Title="How do I use my power meter file to improve my time up this steep hill climb tt?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24124" CreationDate="2014-08-10T21:30:03.827" Score="4" ViewCount="4159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a recent tourer (Dawes Galaxy Plus) and would like to take it over some rougher stuff - muddy bridleways, gravel paths, that kind of thing. What holds me back is the tyres: 35-622 looks to be its limit with mudguards, perhaps 40-622 without.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm exploring the possibility of getting round this by using 650B wheels and knobbly tyres. I expect there is a lot to watch out for here, so I want to check my thoughts and assumptions are correct and I haven't missed anything:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most fundamentally of all, I'm assuming the bike will still handle sensibly with fatter tyres, the fork will still handle the braking force from my discs, etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm aiming for swapping between the two wheelsets to be a five-minute job: just swap the wheels, no further adjustment required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think I'd be aiming for around 51-584 tyres because they're 19 mm taller than my present 32-622's, which exactly makes up for the 38 mm loss in wheel diameter. The web advises me these exist and are typically called 27.5&quot; x 2&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have easily enough horizontal space for wider tyres at my chainstays and fork, but only just enough at the seatstays. If a 51-584 tyre really is 51 mm, then I think I'm OK. I'm not sure a 54-584 (27.5&quot; x 2.2&quot;) would fit. Does the 51 mm on a knobbly tyre include any horizontally protruding knobbles, or do they extend beyond the nominal width?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The new wheels will need the same hub spacing as my current ones: 100 mm O.L.D. at the front, 135 mm O.L.D. at the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have disc brakes, so I'll need the same size rotors (160 mm). I'll also need the lateral position of the rotor to be identical to my current wheelset, but I'm aware the tolerance is very low here and I'm not sure how this is measured, if it is standardised, and if it is easily adjustable (e.g. with shims)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'll need a 9-speed cassette like my current one. Somehow I'll need to make sure they have similar levels of wear, to prevent the chain skipping on one and not the other - presumably, frequent chain changes will suffice, though I hope not too frequent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Last and definitely least, I'm hoping I can use my existing mudguards after a fashion, but they'll be rather narrow so perhaps this is a vain hope.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much longer post than I thought - nonetheless, have I forgotten anything? And/or please tell me if I'm mad or misguided!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6717" LastEditorUserId="6717" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T22:16:20.003" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T22:16:20.003" Title="Changing wheel size - what should I know?" Tags="&lt;650b&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22943" CreationDate="2014-08-10T22:49:59.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they are SRAM/Avid hydraulic brakes, you're screwed. The DOT 5.1 fluid attacks the o-ring seals, and makes constant issues. Storing the bike for a while, upside down or vertically, will also cause issues. If they are Hayes or Tektro, same deal with the the DOT 5.1. This means don't spend money on them, replace with a Shimano M596 or better. They use mineral oil, which is much better with rubber, moisture, and expansion. They also have the fewest issues of any other mainstream product out there, by far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, SRAM currently allows a no-questions asked full replacement warranty with all current models. I don't recall how far back it applies. If 10 years, maybe not. But, still worth a try. Ask a reputable LBS to make the call to SRAM on brake warranty. Thing is, you're getting another SRAM brake, which will do the same thing again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13340" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T22:49:59.920" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24121" CreationDate="2014-08-10T23:05:39.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question! Looks like you've been very thorough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Handling should be unaffected, assuming your effective wheel diameter (including tyres) is similar. Same goes for braking forces - if you use rotors of the same diameter, the forces should remain the same.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To make the wheel swap painless, I'd build the 650B wheelset around identical hubs to your existing 700Cs, and fit identical rotors. With a little luck, the caliper/rotor clearance on both wheelsets will be close enough. Perhaps someone with more experience with discs can chime in, but I'd have thought that the manufacturing tolerances involved would be similar to the effects of new vs. worn pads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You're right that you'd lose 19mm of ground clearance with equivalent tyres. You can certainly make this up with fatter tyres. Just beware if buying a tyre marketed as a 27.5&quot; x 2&quot; - I've never seen those on sale before. I don't think 27.5&quot; is a name alias for a different tyre size, but I wouldn't take the chance. Make sure you can return them if they're not a proper 650B.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;IME tyre sizes don't include knobbles, so I'd probably downsize to a 42mm tyre just in case. As long as your bottom bracket has over 10 inches of ground clearance, you should be fine to drop by 5mm or so.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain/cassette wear is something to watch. Probably safest to get a new chain, and new cassettes (same brand). Keep the drivechain clean, whichever wheelset you use, and it will help eliminate wear. Ideally you'd have two chains, one for each cassette, but I think that's overkill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If mudguard clearance is an issue, you could always split the guards and mount the two halves with separate brackets. I've done this more than once; it works like a charm. All you need is a hacksaw, drill, and a couple of spare 'L' brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only worry is rotor clearance. If luck permits, you may be able to fine-tune that with some very narrow washers on the mounting bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I say go for it. I've successfully converted a few bikes to different wheel sizes (27&quot; to 700C, 700C to 650B, 26&quot; to 700C, and 700C to 27&quot;) - admittedly none of these had disc brakes to worry about, but as long as you've got a handle on frame clearances and mudguards there isn't much that can't be worked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastEditorUserId="11489" LastEditDate="2014-08-10T23:10:57.993" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T23:10:57.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24121" CreationDate="2014-08-10T23:17:41.960" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;• Swapping the wheels usually needs a little derailleur and brake adjustment, no matter what. You still might need to adjust the high and low limit. And, reposition the caliper, if  hydraulic. If mechanical, most have the pad adj knob, and barrel adjuster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Since you're coming from a hybrid wheel, going wider is an issue with the seatstays. But, if you are riding in thicker mud, a narrower rear tire is better. In fact, they way it'll have to work is ideal, with a wider front, skinnier rear. The width measurement does NOT include the knobs. They could rub, if wide enough. But, usually a deep chevron style tread is better for rear mud tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• The 650B is coming back into mainstream, after a long-abandoned experiment. So, you'll have more choices of wheel and tire. It will be $$ because of the exclusivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Many wheel sets will have 100/135 spacing. Make sure you get non-thru axle hubs, just the 100x9 and 135x10 QR axles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Make sure you get the correct rotor mounting system. Mostly, there is center-lock, which uses a cassette lockring, and then the 6-bolt design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• The rotors will be in roughly the same position between both wheelsets. I do not recommend extensive lateral dishing of the rotor. It's good practice to be handy at repositioning the calipers. Even taking off and reinstalling the same wheelset can still rub, no matter how perfect the brakes were before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Don't worry about similar levels of cassette wear. Replace the chain more often, and use the gears a lot. Nine speed chains came down in price recently. If the chain is worn now, most definitely. But, this discrepancy will happen with prolonged use of one wheelset. If you use both wheels a lot, it won't happen as quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Narrow mudgards obviously won't work as well with fat tires! There could be some splatter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13340" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-08-11T00:09:00.120" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T00:09:00.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15799" CreationDate="2014-08-11T03:01:06.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Check your shorts for seams, tags or chamois edges that could be causing chafing. Try different brands of shorts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Check saddle edges and try a smoother/narrower nose saddle as others have suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Check your seat post saddle clamp. Your thighs may be rubbing on it. If so you can try a different one or try smoothing the edges with Sugru.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Shorts/saddle combination can make a difference. I have shorts that chafe with one type of saddle, but don't chafe and are very comfortable on another. They're are no rules as to what combinations work. It's very individual since the rider's anatomy is the third part of that mix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Try to determine if moisture is a big contributor to the chafing or if it's primarily caused by rubbing. If it's moisture, a powder like &quot;Monkey Butt&quot; powder can help. If not, chamois cream in liberal amounts may help. Another option is Lantiseptic. It's primary purpose is to prevent bedsores. When applied to dry skin it creates a moisture barrier and serves as a skin protectant. It's used by many randonneurs for chamois cream. It can also be difficult to wash out of shorts so it's generally something you don't want to use every ride, only if you're going to be out for several hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T03:01:06.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24062" CreationDate="2014-08-11T03:14:12.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy a new frame or order a custom frame with S&amp;amp;S couplers. Some builders will also add them after market to some frames; usually steel or titanium. S&amp;amp;S couplers add around 1 pound to the weight of a single frame. Another lighter, cheaper option is Ritchey Break-away frames. They're available in steel or titanium, road or cross configurations. Some people have suggested the Break-away may not be as stiff as S&amp;amp;S, but it's easy to find happy owners of both on forums. I only have first hand experience with S&amp;amp;S couplers on a steel tandem. They were problem-free in that application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T03:14:12.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-11T06:05:42.587" Score="3" ViewCount="1673" Body="&lt;p&gt;the FOX shock CTD remote is a nice shock, but the remote is bulky, even the new 2014 version, still uneasy to change between CTD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I come across this article&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-clever-levers-37844/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-clever-levers-37844/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the mechanics of Jerome manage to tweak by sram grip shifter to be the fox shock remote lever. &#xA;it's such a very nice hack indeed. &#xA;I wonder if anyone did it as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would one please post the step by step guide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13343" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T11:09:19.847" Title="sram grip shifter to be fox CTD shock remote lever" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24121" CreationDate="2014-08-11T14:08:17.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I swap wheels between 700c and 650B on this bike when I go from summer to winter ( or as winter as coastal California gets. ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hPZjh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had disk brakes on both the back and front, it would require no adjustment at all. Disk brakes are relatively standardized and swapping wheels is pretty straightforward. The only issue I've ever run into is that not all rotors will work with all brakes ( Avid BB7's and Shimano ICEtech rotors don't work because the tabs hanging down from the brake shoes interfere with the alloy spiders on the rotor )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the gearing goes, as long as the clusters are similar ( big sprocket within a tooth or two between clusters), no adjustment is required. If you are diligent about checking the chain for wear and replacing it at regular intervals, there should be no shifting problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The handling is a bit different, but not enough to matter as long as you use bigger tires on the smaller rims. Just for fun one day I put my 26 inch MTB wheel on the front, it worked. Looked funny, but it worked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T14:08:17.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30107" CreationDate="2014-08-11T14:21:49.610" Score="2" ViewCount="4226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to rebuilt the rear Joytech hub on my 2008(ish) Schwinn High Timber after I broke the axle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JStHX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;New axle vs old&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hubs have a integrated dust cover which consists of a rubber diaphragm that is pressed into the end of the hub and has a opening for the cone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6urLg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Integrated dust cover&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cones on the new axle have dust covers on them (the old ones did not), but the opening on the hub is larger than most I presume:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BA6HO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pressed dust cover with integrated dust cover&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I was going to remove the pressed on one from the cone.  I figured if I left them both on there then the rotating integrated one would be sliced apart from the sharp edge of the one on the cone.  So what should I do in this case, or remove the one pressed on the cone?  A quick look at the hubs on JoyTech's website suggest that all the ones with the rubber diaphragm do not use the metal ones on the cones.  Considering this, I'm leaning to removing the ones on the cones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just happen to have a new stock spare wheel for this bike that I'm going to use in the mean time.  Here is the photo of it as a reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SxFhl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;new stock wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2014-08-11T19:25:11.490" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T00:47:46.100" Title="Hub rebuild - cone dust cap conflict, hub integrated vs pressed on cone?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24121" CreationDate="2014-08-11T14:34:11.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good existing answers on how.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't think a 2&quot; knobby tire is the answer to &quot;some rougher stuff - muddy bridleways, stony paths&quot;.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross racers handle those conditions and do so on 32 and 35.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 35mm tire will handle a stony path.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for mud if it is more than a couple inches it is going to be sloppy.  A 2&quot; tire is not going to save the day over a 35 or 38.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is still a touring bicycle with drop bars.  Putting a 2&quot; knobby on it is not going to make it into a mountain bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stony path versus mud is a tread issue and exact opposites.  Stony path you want a tight or small block.  Mud you want wide space knobs.  And for mud you need clearance as mud builds up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start with some stony path tires on the existing wheels.  Some soft 35mm or 38mm with a little bit of tread.  Good wet traction as wet stone is slick.  And there might be a language barrier - in the U.S. stone is big smooth rocks like cobble stone.  Smaller crushed rock is gravel.  Still the same basic type of tire but wet gravel is not slick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mud get yourself a set of 38mm aggressive knobby and try it out in the mud.  You are not going to like the way they behave on road or stony path.  Yes some 2&quot; on a 650b will do better in mud but you are still not going to have a mud bike.  If you want a mud bike then get a mountain bike.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-11T17:03:59.807" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T17:03:59.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24115" CreationDate="2014-08-11T23:25:54.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting aside the crank fitting problems, you can forget about using data from a Stages power meter for reliable neuromuscular (very short duration) power assessment. It's simply not suitable for that task (not many power meters are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T23:25:54.563" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14261" CreationDate="2014-08-11T23:39:05.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the A23 rims are just widely incompatible. I just had a wheel built with one, and tried to install Schwalbe Marathon Almotions. Result: punctured tube, two broken tire levers, and a wheel with no tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13360" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T23:39:05.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-12T02:41:59.387" Score="7" ViewCount="3644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a bike that would work for a long commute to and from work, around 45 miles each way, country roads and some city traffic.  I am a pretty experienced runner, and can do my barefoot 10 - 13 mile trail runs 4 - 5 times a week, and I feel I can handle the physical toll.  I've done a 20 mile commute, to and from work, and my boss lets me shower in the mop sink / freshen up and change.  Any recomendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13362" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T19:24:39.483" Title="90 mile round trip work commute" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24134" CreationDate="2014-08-12T04:24:34.227" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;90 miles is roughly 140km, so if you're riding that every day it's about 700km a week. Which puts you in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=43&amp;amp;t=26412&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;elite rider territory&lt;/a&gt; for upright bikes without power assist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's doable, it's just going to be hard and you'll need to work on nutrition and health as well as fitness. Note that there's also a balance here - if you use world class equipment to get a bit more speed, but need extra recovery and dress/undress time, you might not gain anything. So it might be better (as well as a lot cheaper) to go with elite level gear. I've assumed you'll do that below. You could drop further down that scale, but you will start to lose overall and also the sheer time involved will mean you can only sleep, ride, work (you're already looking at riding 4 hours a day, working 8, sleeping 8, eating 1... that's 3 hours for everything else in your life).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just going to buy a &lt;strong&gt;standard elite road bike&lt;/strong&gt; ($5,000+ and riding kit $1,000+), I suggest joining your local club and buying whatever their favourite bike shop recommends. It will probably help to have two bikes so you can get your weekly service done without having to panic about whether your LBS can get it done in time. Especially initially, you're probably going to need to ride alternate days, and you'll benefit greatly from going on your club training rides once a week or so rather than commuting every day. That way you get training tips and someone to help you understand how your bike works and how to get best use out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option is to buy a &lt;strong&gt;power assisted bike&lt;/strong&gt;. You'll need to look really hard at battery life, and if you can get a second charger and leave that at work it'll be much easier. I'd also buy two batteries, because 90 miles a day is going to hammer the battery. From your use of imperial units I'm going to guess you're in the USA, which means power limits are hard to predict (they vary haphazardly around the US). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that most ebikes and kits are designed to boost low speeds only, and in Europe you can't boost high speeds at all (assist has to cut out at 30kph). So you'll need to shop specifically for kits that will boost you at 20-30mph. Those exist, I've seen a couple of triathalon bikes set up with 500W front hub motors that could cruise at 70kph/45mph for an hour... but those were &quot;money no object&quot; demonstration units at a world solar challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;recumbent&lt;/strong&gt; is the obvious way to deal with some of the problems. If you choose a fast lowracer or highracer style bike and use bright lights to compensate for the lower profile you will get better comfort and similar speed, assuming your ride is relatively flat. The big win really is comfort - you won't be fighting saddle sores anywhere near as much as on an upright, and you won't be as sore after the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W9Yl3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Zocra lowracer&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cymvG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;highracer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lowracer style (on the left) is slightly faster in a time trial, slightly slower in a slalom, but you're in a time trial. The main reason to buy a high racer is wheels - they typically use 700c wheels so you can use the wheelset off your existing bike, or buy them easily anywhere. 406 wheels for lowracers are typically harder to find and there's not the intense market contest to get you really nice wheels are a reasonable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining those two will require a little more work, but a recumbent will probably take a power assist kit better than the road bikes you're looking at. IMO this is the way to go, as you get a small, light, fast bike at a reasonable price (under $10,000). If you did put a kit into your front wheel it would be relatively easy to swap in and out, so you'd only have the wiring and battery mount in place when you wanted to leave it at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/joMib.png&quot; alt=&quot;Trisled Avatar&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The no-compromises approach would be a &lt;strong&gt;velomobile&lt;/strong&gt;, possibly with power assist. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trisled.com.au/avatar.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trisled Avatar&lt;/a&gt; is designed to go 50kph/30mph using 200W from the rider. Other velomobiles give similar numbers, especially if you pay extra for the fast versions. If you're fit enough to consider riding 90 miles a day, every day you should be able to exceed that fairly easily. That would cut your commute time without compromising your body the way staying in a time trial tuck for 90 minutes would. I believe someone in the USA is doing a 30 mile each way commute in an Avatar. (full disclosure: the Trisled factory owner is a friend of mine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trisled don't support electric assist, but there are other &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velomobiles.de/html/modellubersicht.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fast velomobiles&lt;/a&gt; that do. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/mobilitylabbe/blog/e-wawabio-electrichybrid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;eWAW&lt;/a&gt; is one, but their focus is on helping with stop-start riding so you'd have to talk to them about getting better top speed on long rides. The Avatar is about $15,000 in the USA, the eWAW starts at about &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AqJr4v9QWtMidDdENHpUWTM3QUUzcVdPU0pqY0h0MUE&amp;amp;usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;7,000 Euro&lt;/a&gt;(google docs link, in Dutch)  but I think the electric version is 8,500 Euro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T07:51:11.733" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T07:51:11.733" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2325" CreationDate="2014-08-12T08:22:54.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upj6HTS3pU4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;, and decided to do like him. He puts some kind of extension on his power drill, and on the end he puts a tiny 1 inch steel wire wheel. He drives the wheel up and down in the seat tube for some time until the rust is gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried hard but never found a wirewheel this small in my country, at least not one that would fit on an extension. So I improvised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a piece of 12mm round timber. In the end I cut a 5cm slit, using a hacksaw to make the slit as thin as possible. I cut a 5cm wide strip of the most coarse emery paper I could find, inserted it into the slit and wound it around the pole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paper was sort of flapping, since when rolled compact together, the diameter was not as big as the inside of the tube. I thought this flapping was good enough, but after some time very little had happened. So I putting pieces of toilet paper in between the layers/windings of emery paper to increase the diameter. In the end I had a perfect diameter that I was able to fit into the tube, while it was still pressing on the sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took a few minutes to remove all the rust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diameter of the pole was too great for my power drill, so I cut it thinner with a knife. But it was very difficult to cut in such a way that this thinner part was parrallel to the rest, and therefore the pole was hitting/hammering when rotating. It would have been much better to have bought a 10mm pole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LtV6c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/36wes.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q8JDu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the pros/cons of using steel wire, brass wire or emery paper. I suspect that emery paper maybe wears down the material and not just the rust, and moreso than brass and steel wire. So maybe using a brass or steel wire wheel is still a better solution, but I actually don't know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only right-sized wire wheel I ever found, which could also be mounted on an extension for the power drill, was this one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310978552221?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2648&amp;amp;var=610278331064&amp;amp;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;. It's a 25mm brass wire wheel, for 1.6 GBP incl shipping. But it will take a month before I get it from China. I would then use it with an extension like this one (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline-SDS-Plus-Wood-Drill-Adaptor-Extension-Arm-300mm-Power-Tool-Accessorie-/181306742725?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&amp;amp;hash=item2a36b957c5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6028" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T08:22:54.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-12T08:57:45.773" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any &quot;classic&quot;, highly regarded, or even little known gem climbs around Lausanne - within range of Lausanne, maybe maximum 60-80 km out so it could be ridden in a day with Lausanne as a base, ideally closer to Lausanne the better!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm not sure if this is off-topic, for me this is a cycling question and the help pages gave no guidance on this sort of question and similar questions appear to have been asked previously... &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10281/list-of-uk-hill-climbs&quot;&gt;List of UK hill climbs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T22:10:37.257" Title="Great/Classic climbs near Lausanne" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24137" CreationDate="2014-08-12T10:57:53.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I have not ridden in Lausanne, I rely upon &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stava&lt;/a&gt;. I don't know if you can follow the links posted below without being a member, if not then you can join up for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once on Stava, going to the Activity Search page, I enter &lt;em&gt;Lausanne, Switzerland&lt;/em&gt; and hit search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few interesting rides come up ... there are many others too ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/activities/178367095&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Along the lake side to Chexbres and up Mont Pèlerin&lt;/a&gt; 55 km, 2:45-3 hrs, 860 m climbing, 8 x cat 4 climbs, 1 cat 3.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/activities/78831021&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mt Tendre&lt;/a&gt; 82 km, 3:25-whatever hrs, 1527 m climbing, 5 x cat 4 climbs, 1 x cat 2, 2 x cat HC climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/activities/71334522/segments/1394044168&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Col de la Croix&lt;/a&gt; 145 km, 6 hrs - whatever, 3,283 m climbing, 10 x cat 4 climbs, 3 x cat 3 climbs, 3 x cat 2 climbs, 1 x cat 1 climb.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T22:10:37.257" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T22:10:37.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24141" CreationDate="2014-08-12T11:56:50.643" Score="2" ViewCount="1514" Body="&lt;p&gt;What sort of speed improvement can I expect going from a $1000 hybrid bike (Merida Crossway Striker) to a $2000 road bike (Cannondale CAAD 10 - 105), all other things being equal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presently I can commute to work (9km) in 17-18 minutes. It's mostly flat on a dedicated cycle path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to shave maybe 30 seconds off my time. Is this a reasonable expectation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11241" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T16:09:24.953" Title="Speed improvement from hybrid bike to road bike over 9km at 30 kmph?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24139" CreationDate="2014-08-12T12:24:49.450" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that anyone is going to be able to give you a definitive answer... especially since you are asking if your commute will improve by 30 seconds when the commute time you give has a range of 60 seconds. But 30 seconds out of 17.5 minutes is about a 2-3% improvement, which seems reasonable...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more interesting question would be &quot;what can this speed up be attributed to?&quot; There are 3 factors I can think of: rolling resistance, weight, and wind resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rolling Resistance: How much friction is produced by the wheels? Moving to skinnier tires, and inflating them correctly, will reduce your rolling resistance dramatically (not always a great thing when it comes to stopping time / cornering). The Merida Crossway Striker looks like it has fairly skinny tires, so this won't be as noticeable as moving from say a mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weight: I include this because it is one of the properties often touted by expensive bikes. But mass is only a factor when you are trying to change velocity. So, especially on a flat course with few stops (and thus little acceleration), reducing the weight of the bicycle will have little effect. Not to mention that the rider's mass dominates the total weight... and it is much cheaper to shave off ounces on the rider than the bike!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wind resistance: this is likely the biggest factor, especially since wind resistance increases exponentially with respect to speed. The smaller profile of an expensive bike will play a small role... but like weight factor is again dominated by the rider. However, the rider's position when &quot;in the drops&quot; is far more aerodynamic, so switching away from straight handle bars will likely have a noticeable effect at high speeds. That is assuming that you are not wearing parachute pants.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely there are other factors, such as the damping effect of the Striker's shocks, or maybe the efficiency of the components in transferring power from pedals to the wheels, but I think rolling and wind resistance are going to be the only noticeable factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T12:24:49.450" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24139" CreationDate="2014-08-12T12:59:09.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answer is good - I got pulled away before I could finish this post  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have nice day bike and a rainy day bike and they have less difference than those two bikes and pick up more than 30 seconds on the about the same commute even rainy bike on a nice day  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall bike weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerodynamics&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The drop bars reduce wind resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More efficient riding positions&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can be up on the hoods or down in the drops. &#xA;The hybrid was designed for comfort and the road for efficiency. &#xA;No just talking aerodynamics. &#xA;The road bike will let you get more of your body involved. &#xA;As noted in some comments if the bike is a bad fit you lose all of this.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gearing&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You say flat and you are doing a decent speed.  The road bike will give you a few gears to use.  On the wide gear range on the hybrid you probably did not have much to work with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller tire diameter with less rolling resistance &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No shock&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That shock absorbs pedal energy  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You were getting petty good time on the hybrid. &#xA;SPD shoes will also help. &#xA;Adapt your riding technique to the road bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 23mm tires on the road bike are more efficient but less rubber contact and susceptible to pinch flats.&#xA;For commute I would go up to 25 and even 28 if the frame will take it. &#xA;My rainy day bike has bigger tires and is more comfortable and more stable.&#xA;I even ride the rainy bike on nice days when I want to relax. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T16:09:24.953" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T16:09:24.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-12T14:01:29.787" Score="2" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the moment, on my road bike, I have Shimano Tiagra groupset. I would like to upgrade it to Sram Red, but I cannot afford to pay for the whole groupset at one time and would like to buy them in steps. I am wondering if this would be possible to do. If yes which components would I need to buy first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4720" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T03:11:26.850" Title="Replacing a groupset in step purchases" Tags="&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24142" CreationDate="2014-08-12T15:06:16.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to upgrade gradually you need to follow the compatibility of the groupsets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your Tiagra groupset is the 4600 series of 2012, the 10 speed components should be compatible with other Shimano 10 speed &lt;strong&gt;road&lt;/strong&gt; components, so you can use Dura Ace 7800 and 7900, Ultegra 6600 and 6700, and &quot;105&quot; 5600 and 5700.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of cable pull per gear is different between Shimano 10sp road and Shimano 10sp mtb. SRAM 10sp doesn't use the same cable pull as Shimano 10sp road or mtb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T15:06:16.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24153" CreationDate="2014-08-12T17:12:54.477" Score="5" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a single speed bike, and ordered parts from various different places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My EAI Bareknuckle frame got delivered this morning, and it looks great, except for this part of the fork, that has this dried brown goop on it. It doesn't look like rust, though it smells kinda metallic. I'm not a rust expert though. Or a frame/bike expert for that matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you seen this before? How can I clean it off? Water didn't dissolve it. Not sure if using soap is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/iM6MRAD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Goop 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/OMDex1f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Goop 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1874" LastEditorUserId="1874" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T17:22:02.960" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T21:20:24.110" Title="What is this brown goop on my new bike frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24119" CreationDate="2014-08-12T17:16:51.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding without enough seat post in the bike is a real problem. &#xA;Not only do you increase the mechanical advantage of the seat post against the seat tube but you put stress where the bike was probably not designed to take stress.  And you are putting stress in the area of the top tube and seat stay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You state you have been riding with a longer post. Have you monitored the cracks to see if they are growing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cracks are just in the top of the seat tube and have not grown I would ride.  I doubt you are going to have the bike shatter under you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any crack has moved into the top tube or seat stay then you have a problem.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shop refused to work on the bike that is a pretty strong statement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XY1mB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T20:59:30.017" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T20:59:30.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24144" CreationDate="2014-08-12T18:18:37.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to take my best guess I'd say it's some sort of epoxy or resin.  Lord knows how it got there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start by trying to get it off with rubbing alcohol.  That shouldn't do anything to the paint, and might take it off.  If it looks like it's helping, I'd feel free to soak the stuff for a while, it won't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work you may have to break out some meaner stuff, like acetone (most Goo-Off products will be basically 100% acetone) or paint thinner.  both of those are really bad for your brain, though, so make sure you use it outside.  They're also really volatile, so don't blow yourself up--keep it away from flames (duh) or anything that might spark, including electric motors (fans, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T18:18:37.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24134" CreationDate="2014-08-12T19:07:29.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You haven't indicated how frequently you intend to do that commute by bike and people are just assuming it is 5x/week. Not saying it is impossible, but I will answer this question as though you are asking about what is appropriate for a &quot;long&quot; commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a 32mi roundtrip commute regularly (1-3x/week), and a 12 mi roundtrip commute daily. The most practical bike for long distance is a randonneur type roadbike: fenders, relaxed geometry, eyelets for light racks, decent wheels with 3-cross lacing. A racing bike is fine as well, but on a crappy day you'll appreciate fenders. As you start pushing near/past 1 hour each way, you will of course need good lights, appropriate clothing, puncture-resistant tires, and clipless pedals. Bikewise, the most important thing is the &quot;FIT&quot; NOT brand or component choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Logistically, it is easier to just keep clothing at your work and stock up on days where you drive. Likewise, you'll want your work IT department to provision you with a laptop for home that you don't have to lug back-and-forth to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my bike (w/o rack). I've since gone through 2 bottom brackets, crank/cogs, 2xpedals, one seatpost and many tires.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lo4RJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T19:07:29.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24157" CreationDate="2014-08-12T20:06:44.227" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just acquired a used 21 gear old Kalkoff cross bike (cant even find correct model name). The frame and most expensive parts seem intact, so I was just wondering if it would be cool and inexpensive to restore bike: repaint, change faulty/old parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Community, help me identify how much would it cost to restore its functionality and aesthetic look. Which parts would you recommend and so on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jO2q7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the bike pictures: &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/aqTHh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/aqTHh&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Big thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13357" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T21:44:18.617" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T03:21:52.797" Title="Old Kalkoff cross bike, worth restoring or not?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;rust&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24134" CreationDate="2014-08-12T20:32:45.257" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting in the late 90's I have done a lot of long distance commuting over the years.  Typically my volume has been about 200-300 km / week, not quite the 700 km/week you are proposing, but a decent amount. This is done on an upright bike with no power assist, in all weather conditions (sun, rain and light snow). In that time I have also done a lot of experimenting on setup and have been slowly amassing data (e.g., see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/11156/relative-efficiency-of-different-commute-bike-setups&quot;&gt;Relative efficiency of different commute bike setups&lt;/a&gt;), which I hope to publish one day. I have tried quite a few set-ups (road, cx, touring, hybrid, mountain) and drivetrain types (e.g., derailleur gears, internal gear hubs, fixed, single speed). As I personally prefer upright bikes, I will restrict my answer to these types of bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Ideal Distance Commuter (Personal)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience I keep coming back to same set up, which is a mix of classic and modern. A road bike (surprise), sport geometry (as opposed to a race geometry), steel (or some other compliant ride) with eyelets and rear rack mounts, derailleur gears, efficient wheels, efficient tires, clearance for larger volume tires (e.g., 700c 28-35mm) and metal fenders.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example below is a picture of my fast commuter (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/es&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soma ES&lt;/a&gt;), which I have a hard time improving on at the moment. I tend to ride a lot of country back roads, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikesiliconvalley.org/2014/01/uc-davis-report-on-chip-seal-and-bike-ride-quality/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;open chip-seal&lt;/a&gt; (rough) and a bit of compacted gravel. I have been moving towards larger volume tires (e.g., 700c 28-35mm) that have a race tire construction (e.g., supple, fast rolling compound) and the gains over rougher roads are noticeable.  They &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; a little sluggish compared to more race oriented tires (e.g., 700c x 23mm) on smooth roads, but this seems to largely be perception as the numbers I am recording seem to suggest otherwise. If the roads were smoother I would probably settle on a more narrow tire (e.g., 700c x 25mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xbzGu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Soma ES - pulling a trailer&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Soma ES - Fast &amp;amp; Functional - picking up a present 50 km errand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, this is very close to the coveted &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Randonneuring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;randonneur&lt;/a&gt; design that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikequarterly.com/rando_basics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicycle Quarterly&lt;/a&gt; seems to advocate, but I find many Rando bikes are often a little too upright and bulky which tends slows you down on the flats. Not to say Rando bikes are not optimized for their purpose which are very long rides often over much rougher conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What to avoid&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried other upright bikes setups that promised to be maintenance free (e.g., internal hubs, disc brakes), but over long distances you really start to notice the inefficiencies either in weight or lost power transfer.  At least for more inexpensive internal gear hubs (IGH) such as Shimano's offerings, I found the lose in efficiency could be substantial at bigger distances.  For example, over 80-100 km I was losing about 20-30 minutes on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brodiebikes.com/2014/bikes/once.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a &quot;fast&quot; hybrid with IGH&lt;/a&gt; compared to a classic well sorted road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Contact Points&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are riding this type of distance you will need to be mindful of your contact points and position. This is personal preference and can take quite a while to sort out.  It took me years really before I have gotten quite happy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a good bike fitter&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't get anything until you have seen a top rated fitter.  They can save you a lot of heart ache and time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Good saddle is very important&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have had the best luck with Brooks, but it took me trying a number of different models before I finally found a really good fit.  The break in time is also long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good shoes and pedals. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is how you transfer the power. Stiff shoes and pedals with a good platform and smooth float will often pay dividends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bar and bar tape&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This can often be overlooked, but depending on your build and position some bars may work well others not. Many 'race' bars are really put the priority on sprinting and wind efficiency and as such make lousy distance bars.  A good fitter should be able to help here. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A high quality bar tape can dampen a lot of high frequency vibration making your ride more comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Position&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Position on the bike is very important for long distances.  Here you have to find a delicate balance between efficiency and comfort.  If you are too 'slammed' (handle bars far below the saddle) you may be efficient (in terms of drag) but not comfortable. As your ride progresses you will actually ride slower due to discomfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here again a fitter can help.  The optimal position really depends on your build, flexibility and experience.  For example, after I stopped racing and had kids my upper and mid back flexibility took a bit of a nose dive.   This ended up causing me to be tight, resulted in knee pain and even made me alter my position.  After a good physio therapist identified the functional deficit, I got my flexibility back and was able to ride in a more slammed position again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Carrying gear&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important consideration is carrying gear.  I typically have to take my laptop with me so I use panniers.  On Monday's I tend to ride my touring bike out with everything for the week, leaving me lighter loads for the rest of the week.  If you mix transportation modes and drive, take everything you can for  that week. Some swear by backpacks but I find them annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T19:24:39.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24148" CreationDate="2014-08-12T20:53:18.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bike gets into that age that parts get harder to find and more expensive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That bike looks aluminum. &#xA;I would not put much money in it. &#xA;If you can lube it up and put new rubber on it then great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a steel Bianchi 7 speed with XT and I am still reluctant to put much money in it. &#xA;Can get cassette and a lot of the running gear - problem is shifters are hard to find / expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That might be 1&quot; head tube that is hard to find shocks for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes have come a long way.  You can get decent used bike with current components $400. &#xA;It is not working putting $200 into a bike with components out of date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T20:53:18.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24142" CreationDate="2014-08-12T21:11:46.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did something similar last year but waited until I had all the components before assembly. If you are patient and you buy only when you think the price is the best you've seen there are deals out there. It was time consuming (18 months) but the savings can be worth it. I got an Ultegra groupset for about $600 one component at a time. With the release of the 11 speed groups you may be able to pick up some lightly used 10 speed parts at reasonable prices. Also evaluate if Sram Red is what you need. The top shelf parts come at a big price. There can easily be a 30 to 40 percent price difference between the &quot;Red&quot; and the &quot;Force&quot; lines of components. The high end cost can make them lighter but not necessarily more durable. (See Bontragers Law /strong,light,cheap pick any two). Some people claim the top line stuff  also needs more frequent adjustment to maintain the quality shifts they are famous for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T22:54:48.820" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T22:54:48.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24120" CreationDate="2014-08-13T00:49:31.320" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from pacing better, if your cadence drops to 40rpm for too long and you are in your lowest gear at maximal effort for the expected duration, then you could probably use at least a gear 2/3rds or less than you currently have so you are likely to be able to sustain closer to 60rpm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's possibly not feasible on your bike, but perhaps a 29 rear cog at least would help get cadence up a bit higher. Being stuck at 40rpm is probably (but not certainly) compromising your ability to generate maximal power for the duration. Depends on how often or how crucial this climb is to your overall performance goals. If it's not that important and you only deal with such climbs rarely, then making such a gear change probably isn't worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you are carrying extra dead weight, then working to trim down can also help since steep climbing speed is all but linear with your power to weight ratio. At least a power meter can provide additional insight into your overall metabolic energy demand from training so that you can manage diet and medium term energy balance for sustainable/sensible weight loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T00:49:31.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24144" CreationDate="2014-08-13T01:12:28.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like cosmoline  which is a waxy rust preventative. It can be difficult to remove from finished parts without damage to the paint. If you can, scrape some of the heavy stuff off with something like a plastic knife. Then I would try something like WD-40. If it doesn't soften it right away soak a rag and wrap it around the fork tips over night. You can see if a hair dryer will soften it without hurting the paint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T01:12:28.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-13T02:38:24.493" Score="1" ViewCount="1964" Body="&lt;p&gt;just replaced Shimano front derailleur (FD-M191) to FD-M590. And problem appears, on smallest cog chain rubs lightly on left side, and on biggest cog on right side.&#xA;Just can't lower derailleur more when chain on smallest cog, cant put derailleur higher when chain on biggest cog. I think just reached limits in both directions, any ideas?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13374" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T09:46:06.807" Title="Shimano FD-M191 replaced with Shimano FD-M590" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2014-08-13T03:07:22.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the data sheets for the FD-M191 and FD-M590, you should be able to run one for another provided the difference between the middle and largest cog is at least 12 teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check is if you've &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;adjusted the front derailleur properly&lt;/a&gt;. Are you using a reasonable gear combination when its rubbing? If so, are you using a 9 speed chain? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T03:07:22.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24142" CreationDate="2014-08-13T03:11:26.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're moving between Shimano and SRAM, the shifters and derailleurs all need to be purchased at the same time. The cassette and chain can stay provided they're the right number of speeds, but I do have a strong preference for SRAM chains whenever possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if your bike is equipped with Tiagra, a better option would likely be sell it and buy something which shipped with Red anyway (or possibly buy a cheap donor bike from Nashbar/BikesDirect or similar with the Red components and strip it out, since the parts are individually quite expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T03:11:26.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24148" CreationDate="2014-08-13T03:21:52.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That isn't a cross bike. First, make sure the bike fits you. If it doesn't, its not really worth restoring (give it to someone who could use it). It looks to be spec'd with relatively cheap stuff, so I wouldn't sink a lot of money into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to check is if the frame has any major cracks or damage. If that is in good condition, check the headset to make sure its working smoothly, that the fork is functional (it probably doesn't work well, but if it bottoms out automatically its relatively useless), the pedals turn smoothly, tires hold air, wheels are true, brakes work (probably will need new pads), shifters work, chain is OK, derailleur not bent. A lot of this will likely require elbow grease and real grease/oil rather than new parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fork is in bad shape, you can likely pick up a rigid fork for not much money, but you need some tools to install it which probably means a trip to the bike shop or local co-op. If you take it to a bike shop and ask the guy to give it a safety check, he should be able to quickly determine what needs to be replaced for a few bucks. As for aesthetics, well, not much you can do there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all likelihood though, all you're going to need to do is oil the chain, adjust the brakes , adjust the derailleurs, throw on some new brake pads, adjust the cables (some may be broken and need replacement), pump up the tires, adjust the seat and handle bars and you're going to be riding off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T03:21:52.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24120" CreationDate="2014-08-13T05:10:37.307" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short and most direct answer to your question is to use your power meter to pace your ride optimally and Alex Simmons, who has given another answer to your question, was too modest to mention that he is an expert in this and has developed one of the most sophisticated power pacing models for variable conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A longer answer is, to paraphrase Prof. Jim Martin at the University of Utah, cycling fast is about maximizing the power you can make, and minimizing the power you must make. You can use a power meter to address both of these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you can use a power meter to train so that you can maximize the power you can make. I will presume that you are already familiar with some of the training methods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less well-known is that you can use a power meter to identify and estimate the sources of drag and inefficiencies that consume power so that you can (sometimes) minimize them. Proper pacing is in this category, as optimal pacing can help you get lower overall times on the same overall energy expenditure. In addition, you may be able to use a power meter to estimate rolling resistance losses either in your tires/tubes or drive train to make better choices about equipment. Rolling resistance from your tires and tubes scales exactly like hill slope, so a decrease (or increase) of .001 in your coefficient of rolling resistance (Crr) is exactly like decreasing (or increasing) your slope by .001, or 0.1%. This may sound small but in a race where seconds matter the difference between winning and finishing off the podium can be smaller than the difference between racing up a hill with an average slope of 8.1% and 8.2%. Your speed on this particular hillclimb is low but on other hills your speed may be high enough to warrant looking at aerodyanmic drag, which you can also estimate with appropriate field tests using an accurate and precise power meter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, although not strictly something that requires a power meter, you can use speed and cadence to estimate gear usage throughout your climb to see not only which gears you used but also when you changed gears. You can see an example of how that is done &lt;a href=&quot;http://anonymous.coward.free.fr/wattage/components/components.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, which is an analysis of power, cadence, crank torque, and gear usage during a hill climb. For example, here is the gear usage during this 15-minute long hill climb race, with dotted red lines marking 30-second long intervals, which are numbered in red:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLwoh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, using power data, you can calculate crank torque and examine the combinations of cadence and torque used to see whether you &quot;bogged down&quot; or were &quot;lugging&quot;. Here is an example, with each point in the plot keyed to the numbered 30-second intervals identified in the previous plot: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x0qGY.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these latter uses, however, require high quality data from your power meter over a wide range of power, cadence, and torque. Because changing bilateral asymmetry in pedaling is common, especially with cadence, torque, and fatigue, the Stages is not an ideal platform for these latter analyses. However, you may be able to get an indication (though not conclusive proof) from your race data whether this is a likely problem. Since you're using Golden Cheetah, you can click on the &quot;Aerolab&quot; tab and see whether the virtual elevation estimated from your speed and power matches up well with the elevation recorded from the altimeter. You may have to &quot;zoom in&quot; on certain parts of the Aerolab plot to see areas of fit and misfit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T05:20:27.557" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T05:20:27.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2014-08-13T09:46:06.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Shimano document &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano-france.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_6R3FA_002/SI-6R3FA-002-ENG_v1_m56577569830673558.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SI-6R3FA-002&lt;/a&gt;, FD-M191 works with the Acera M360 groupset, which is 8 speed, whereas &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/trekking_bike/deore_m590/product.-code-FD-M590.-type-.fd_mountain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FD-M590 is a 9 speed component&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T09:46:06.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5119" CreationDate="2014-08-13T15:33:53.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old question, but I'm in a very similar situation to the OP's. I have bikes, an ElliptiGO, and a Catrike. I have done some winter biking, but I think the recumbent is much better suited for this, for a few reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can go as slow as you have to, or even stop, without having&#xA;to disengage your feet from the pedals. If necessary, put it in a&#xA;very low gear and just spin. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's possible to tip the trike&#xA;cornering at high speed, but it's very difficult. It's not going to&#xA;slide out from under you on ice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you put a studded snow tire&#xA;in the back (this is the &quot;tadpole&quot; (one drive wheel in back, two&#xA;steerable wheels in front), you can just lean back for more&#xA;traction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned, &quot;tadpole&quot; is one drive wheel in back, two wheels in front. The other style (two in back) is called &quot;delta.&quot; Deltas are usually higher off the ground, but to have two drive wheels, you need a differential, which increases the price substantially.)&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to comment on what others have said, you certainly can get front fenders and mud flaps for most trikes. You can even get fabric tops (e.g., Veltop) or velomobile shells for them.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding on roads, the width may be an issue, since trikes are wider than bikes. I'm mostly on bike paths, so it's not a problem. Of course, you can always just ride down the middle of the lane. That's legal and often preferred in the U.S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13378" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T15:33:53.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-13T16:43:27.547" Score="3" ViewCount="2156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was fitting new brake pads to my (mini) v brakes and stupidly pushed one of the arms very far inward to get easier access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spring (actually I'm not sure I mean spring, the pin/spring that pushes the arm back from the rim) either popped out or snapped, I couldn't tell which.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't really tell where it was meant to reattach or screw back in. Does anyone have a diagram or such showing how it should attach? Or can anyone explain how it should be attached?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not believe it's a model with multiple holes for different tension but I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is completely loose now and the brake arm has no tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes are very similar to these &lt;a href=&quot;http://tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=55&amp;amp;sortname=Brake&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tektro RX5 brakes&lt;/a&gt; unfortunately the manual on that page doesn't mention adjusting/refitting the spring.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYuxR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wYuxR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13379" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-10T07:37:28.860" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T20:46:09.587" Title="Is it possible to reattach the v-brake spring/pin arm?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24180" CreationDate="2014-08-13T19:06:51.043" Score="18" ViewCount="22051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like this is poor design. I have two wheelsets that are less than a year old which have damaged freehub bodys due to cogs digging in to the splines on the freehub. It's so bad that I can't remove the cassette spacer without filing down the splines. I had to use  pliers and chain whip to remove the cogs that were embedded in the freehub when trying to remove the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the damage is on the center of the cassette as the largest 3 cogs are held together by carrier. I'm using a shimano 105 cassette and  Novatec disc hub and Velocity ATB convertible disc hubs (which were somewhat damaged in the same fashion, but not as bad as the novatec).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using this bike for cyclocross, offroad exploring, light singletrack use, Rail trails and some road riding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I prevent this damage to the freehub from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6L1g2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;my damaged novatec freehub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-08-14T13:38:49.547" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T06:14:42.307" Title="How to prevent freehub body damage?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24163" CreationDate="2014-08-13T20:32:49.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe there is a lot that can be done as this has to due with the material selection for the freehub body shell (soft aluminum).  Below is an image of a Velocity hub (on my commute bike) that had the same problem. I actually had to hammer the cassette off of the hub body.  In this case a Tiagra cassette (where most of the cogs are pinned together) caused the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IgVez.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the local bike shop and they said they have seen this before and it is largely a materials issue. A higher end cassette may make a difference. I personally have my doubts, but  I will try an Ultegra cassette next and see if the problem continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only solution I can see is replacing the freehub body with one that uses steel or a harder aluminum.  Interestingly, Velocity does make &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velocityusa.com/c/hubs_parts_cassette-bodies&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;freehub bodies in a variety of materials&lt;/a&gt;, although I am not clear on the cross-compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T20:32:49.500" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2014-08-13T22:15:06.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a small external rechargeable USB backup battery.  When the runtastic app &amp;amp; GPS run the phone battery down after 3-4 hours I connect the external battery for a few hours and it keeps the app going plus recharges the phone battery.&#xA;I keep both the phone and backup battery in a small pouch on the top tube so I can hear the app say &quot;distance, 24 miles: speed, 15.4 miles per hour&quot; in a nice British accent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T22:15:06.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21353" CreationDate="2014-08-14T02:10:15.717" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cassettes are harder to measure.  For example they adjust spacing for IG (Interactive Glide). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain is something you can easily measure. &#xA;And it is the cheapest and easiest component of the drive train to replace.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A stretched chain will increase the wear on cassette and chain ring.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace chain when stretched &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For sure replace cassette when chain jumps on a new chain&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or a visual inspection of the cassette - compare it to picture or if you have a replacement on hand compare it to the new.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain ring&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Visual inspection is a good guide.  If the teeth are pointed it is worn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap it (optional) &#xA;At most you are gong to get 3 chains.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the 3rd chain wait for it to skip and replace chain, cassette, and chain ring. &#xA;As Hick commented a chain ring will typically last two cassettes so only cheap it when you know the chain ring is also on its last leg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T16:30:29.120" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T16:30:29.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24177" CreationDate="2014-08-14T12:28:03.740" Score="4" ViewCount="9529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at buying the new Shimano 105 5800 equipment for my bike. It is a 2010 Specialized Allez (Sport Triple) and still has its basic Sora components that it came with. I asked my local bike shop how much it would cost to buy &amp;amp; fit (6400 sek, ~€700 of which roughly $50 was the labour). Looking online, Wiggle sells the groupset at ~€400, and Chainreactioncycles at ~€450. If I can equip myself with the right tools for significantly less than the €300 saving it makes sense for me to DIY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tools will I &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to buy to be able to completely overhaul? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other tools are &lt;strong&gt;recommended&lt;/strong&gt; to make it easier? (e.g. cable crimpers are better than regular pliers..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T19:28:35.713" Title="Tools needed to perform groupset overhaul" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-14T12:39:16.347" Score="3" ViewCount="1277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to use SPD-SL cleats and still be able to access pubs/cafe's normally. I'm really thinking of something that could be taken on a 75km club run and with that kind of distance I think a bag would be a bit onerous to carry. Cleats on the local slate floors cause upset to the proprietor and are probably a slipping risk. I am not willing to use a different form of clipless pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solutions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleat covers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jyuoS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foldable shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1EnDJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never tried either of these before.  Do other's have any experience of them?  Are there any other suggestions to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12879" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-08-14T22:08:38.390" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T07:06:11.200" Title="Lightweight foldable shoes for road cycling" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24170" CreationDate="2014-08-14T12:54:51.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hm.com/se/product/23527?article=23527-A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some of these&lt;/a&gt; if I'm touring and want to travel light, I put them in my bag but I reckon they could slip in to a jersey pocket, I'll try after work today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ud0Zs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used cleat covers before and, though they protect the cleat, didn't feel they were a proper solution - you still end up walking weirdly because the only contact point is the cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T12:54:51.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24173" CreationDate="2014-08-14T13:04:48.047" Score="0" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I remove my old (Shimano Sora) brake/gear levers and replace them with new (Shimano 105 5800) levers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/allez-sport-triple-2010-road-bike-ec019408&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is the bike if you want to know more components details&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As a note, I'm asking about step-wise instructions on the technique/method, not technical issues like going from 9- to 11-speed as covered here (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14959/upgrade-shimano-sora-shifters-to-105&quot;&gt;Upgrade Shimano Sora shifters to 105&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T13:34:02.207" Title="How do I replace road shift levers?" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24172" CreationDate="2014-08-14T13:13:09.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove cables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove bar tape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll back lever covers to reveal clamp bolts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen bolts and slide off bars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Follow instructions included with the new levers (these should in effect be a well written reversal of steps 1-4.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T13:13:09.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25165" CreationDate="2014-08-14T13:33:34.940" Score="-1" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I remove my old (Shimano Sora) brake callipers (dual pivot) and replace them with new (Shimano 105 5800) callipers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/allez-sport-triple-2010-road-bike-ec019408&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This is the bike if you want to know more components details&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-06-04T20:51:18.200" LastActivityDate="2017-06-04T20:51:18.200" Title="How do I replace road brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24174" CreationDate="2014-08-14T14:06:12.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;General guide to calliper swap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the cable ends (metal cap over the end of the cable) and loosen the cable clamp bolt (bolt holding the cable tight to the calliper).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unfasten the calliper by loosening the calliper bolt (the one attaching the calliper to the frame). Take the calliper off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attach the new calliper by the calliper bolt, making sure the calliper is straight (and on the correct end of the bike) and tighten so the calliper does not move around on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Align the pads to the wheel rim surface: Loosen the brake pad bolts, pull the calliper closed by hand, align the pads and tighten the pad bolts whilst keeping the calliper held closed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attach the cable to the calliper: put the cable in to position, pull the calliper closed on the rim and release it by a couple of millimeters, while holding the calliper in that position tighten the cable clamp bolt. Cap the new cable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the alignment of the calliper position so brake pads are equidistant from the rim, double check the bolts are all properly tightened, pads are properly positioned (on the right side, straight, not touching the tire etc.), and test the brakes well before you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, carefully read the instructions included with the new callipers before fitting, don't just follow the guide above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T14:06:12.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24169" CreationDate="2014-08-14T16:12:49.843" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A road groupset usually consists of a number of parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are not many tools, and they are generally not that expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all the resources out there (youtube, sheldon brown website, etc) and basic mechanical aptitude it isn't a difficult task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need basic hand/bike tools, (hammer, metric allen keys/drivers, screwdrivers, pliers, socket set, torque wrench, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of specific tools for those components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Bracket (BB)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Pressfit:&#xA;   &lt;strong&gt;A BB press, a BB punch/remover.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Threaded: &lt;strong&gt;A BB Wrench&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette : &lt;strong&gt;Chain Whip, Cassette lockring socket tool.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain : &lt;strong&gt;Chain breaker, Chain tool or missing link pliers depending on chain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crankset : &lt;strong&gt;Pedal wrench or allen keys depending on the pedals.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Modern Shimano specific (like the 105 group): &lt;strong&gt;Hollowtech II crank arm installation tool&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Front derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Rear derailleur &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;STI levers (Shifters/Brakes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  You will probably need to replace the cables, so a &lt;em&gt;cable puller&lt;/em&gt; might come in handy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An optional extra that would come in handy and for future work on the bike would be a &lt;em&gt;bike workshop stand&lt;/em&gt; I spent 100$ on mine and it has been excellent for regular maintenance and upgrading parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastEditorUserId="10723" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T19:28:35.713" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T19:28:35.713" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-14T18:46:05.690" Score="4" ViewCount="3186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/Rapid-Rims-OEM-only.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ZTR Rapid rims&lt;/a&gt; that are tubeless compatible, but I never run tubeless tires on them. They have this list of maximum pressures on the side of the rim:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WB71I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Maximum pressures on the rim&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the limits are dependent on tire size, I assume that the rim is structurally sound enough to withstand &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; the highest pressure listed. And since I've never seen pressure limits of any sort on traditional rims, I assume that it's somehow specific to tubeless tires. But that's an awful lot of assuming...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is twofold: Why the different limits for different size tires? And are they specifically for tubeless, or do they apply to tubed tires as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-08-14T19:08:32.807" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T14:01:27.947" Title="Is the max pressure on tubeless rims specifically for tubeless, or do they apply to tubed tires too?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24178" CreationDate="2014-08-14T19:36:50.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for rim strong enough for highest.  The force the rim must take is both psi and size.  If you have twice as many molecules pushing 1/2 as hard the total force is the same.  It is not exactly force on the rim bead but the force on the tire to pull it off the bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a reference where they give different pressure for tube versus tubeless. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hutchinsontires.com/en/informations-techniques&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hutchinson tires information&lt;/a&gt;  See question 7. &#xA;I just bought some Pyranha 2 CX tubeless and the pressure on the box is different from the pressure on the tire.  Box is clearly the tubeless pressure as it is in the tubeless mounting instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a lot about how the and where tire engages rim. &#xA;On Stans (ZTR) the bead is shallow so you get more tire evolved in the adsorb rocks side. &#xA;On Stans I would assume they mean max pressure period until you see a different pressure listed for with tubes.  Their story is with a more shallow rim you need less pressure. See the diagram in this literature that standard rim with tube engages differently.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/literature/bst.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comparison of a standard bicycle rim to a Stan’s BST Rim&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How the different rims do UST varies.  And how they cross to tube varies.  Some have more of a dual type of engagement and some are designed just for UST. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/literature/ztr_rim_specifications.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ztr_rim_specifications&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Stan’s rims are a tubeless design and care must be taken when using&#xA;  tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go both ways then don't go Stan's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stans has great support - you should try and contact them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the two diagrams below.  The first is a Stans and the second a Mavic. &#xA;In these examples the Mavic has a separate groove for UST - a tube tire will be on the outer part of the rim. &#xA;According to DWGKNZ the Mavic will seat on the outer even tubeless. &#xA;Still you have different designs and some are designed for tubeless only and some fro both ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h6xFY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ZTR Arch&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ghmOI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mavic CrossMax&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am learning from comments from DWNG.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;UST is a tighter standard than I was aware. The bead must have a specific design.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/mountainbikecom/bikes-gear/pssssst&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UST tubeless-tire system&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are still variations in the implementation. &#xA;Some rims will cross over better than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T14:01:27.947" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T14:01:27.947" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24163" CreationDate="2014-08-14T20:31:21.563" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.notubes.com/faqs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stan's NoTubes FAQs&lt;/a&gt; on wheels and rims:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is my cassette digging into my freehub body?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Stan's freehubs are made lightweight using aluminum like many other brands.&#xA;  We recommend using cassettes with a rigid alloy&#xA;  carrier (XTR, XT, XO, etc. - Figure 1) for the largest sprockets.&#xA;  Cassettes with individual cogs (Figure 2) may mark the&#xA;  alloy freehub, though marks are only cosmetic and will not affect the&#xA;  performance of the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your picture it appears the freehub takes the hit from the individual sprocket. &#xA;Need the cassette to act as a unit and spread the load across all sprockets. &#xA;Tighten down more or look for cassette that has more of a body across the sprockets (rigid alloy carrier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See how the rigid body (left) shares the force across not just the sprockets but also between the sprockets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m1WQX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Figure 1. Ridgid Body Cassette&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNeww.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Figure 2. Individual Gear Cassette&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2019-07-04T11:27:33.867" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T11:27:33.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24200" CreationDate="2014-08-14T20:49:42.690" Score="10" ViewCount="7207" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I remove a compression plug (aka. expander bung) like this one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uF3Vj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;compression plug top&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8mp9V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;compression plug side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most guides I could find assume that there's a 6mm hex Allen opening that allows tightening/loosening the plug (example pictured below) but that's clearly not the case with mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://www.treefortbikes.com/images/raw/FK1815.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;With hex&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read there are designs that require screwing in the bolt partially and hitting it with a hammer until the expander's loosened but I'd rather ask first. The &lt;code&gt;→ REMOVE&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;INSTALL ←&lt;/code&gt; markings seem to suggest that there's another way to remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the 2mm gap visible on second picture was caused by the plug being loose enough to be pulled up when tightening the top cap - the spacers can rotate freely and the whole fork gets slightly loose after a few days. Adding another spacer only caused the plug to slide out a bit further so I'd like to anchor the expander properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13391" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.673" LastActivityDate="2021-02-13T17:06:46.300" Title="Felt carbon steerer compression plug removal" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24184" CreationDate="2014-08-15T01:20:22.237" Score="22" ViewCount="6306" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two days in a row on my commute home I've had vehicles behind me start honking at me. (Note: I'm in Canada, and drive on the right.) The first time I was riding on a four-lane road, with a left turning lane and a right turning lane, in the second lane in from the right (since I was going straight through). The driver behind me honked a few times, pulled up beside me less than 0.5m away (the next lane to the left was occupied, and the lanes are fairly narrow) and continued honking and started shouting at me. I waved at him to back off, but he ignored me and continued yelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second time, I was on the same road but not at a point with a right-turn lane, so I was hugging the curb. Again, a vehicle behind me started honking until a gap in traffic in the next lane over, when the driver passed me (this time with appropriate clearance and without any further fuss once they were no longer behind me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially in the second case, I wasn't sure what the driver was honking for, i.e., what they wanted me to do. Go faster? Get off the road entirely? What should I do to determine whether someone is honking at me for a legitimate reason or just out of impatience? And how do I respond to what, as far as I can tell, is unwarranted honking, to indicate to someone to back off a little if necessary or at least stop being dangerously distracting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13394" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T08:51:51.897" Title="How can I interpret the intent of and respond to cars behind me honking?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="14" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24182" CreationDate="2014-08-15T02:15:41.640" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bullying&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that you are female, given that your screen name is Michelle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there can be many suggestions about safe riding, the main point here is that these (male?) drivers are just bullying you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plain and simple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution some cyclists use is to carry an obvious helmet camera, so that their behavior is witnessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: on rereading your question, I see that I did not answer the &lt;em&gt;how to respond&lt;/em&gt; part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My response to this behavior is always to put on a big smile and wave vigorously. After all you have lots of friends: it &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be one of them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such a response seems to rob them of their power over you. And it feels good too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take care out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T08:33:47.223" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T08:33:47.223" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24182" CreationDate="2014-08-15T04:32:42.233" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Broadly, not a lot. Legally it's probably technically unlawful on several grounds (horn not used as a warning device, causing alarm, loud noise, possibly harassment), but they're all petty offences and unlikely to get a useful response from Police. If it happens in front of a cop they might pull the motorist over for a chat, but that's unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/21100/7044&quot;&gt;&quot;Is there a polite way to take the centre of the road without antagonizing motorists?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; might be helpful as it has links and some anecdata.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In my experience, no. The problem is that however polite you try to be you're taking the lane so you're in their way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My suggestion&lt;/strong&gt; is that you clearly take the lane (being assertive makes harassment less likely) and use daylight-bright rear lights. The lights are fairly affordable (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelightdatabase.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nathan's bike light database&lt;/a&gt;) and I find they do help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going faster will help, if you can match the speed of the other traffic. Since most cyclists can't do that, going faster just makes your life less pleasant. And slightly more dangerous, because &quot;the faster you go, the bigger the mess&quot; (NZ and Ireland anti-speeding campaigns, both feature graphic images).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to address gender since it seems important to some people: the evidence is mixed between &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3890455/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;no affect&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (Queensland, Oz) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://totalwomenscycling.com/riding/opinion-women-cyclists-implicit-bias-and-helmet-pigtails-6186/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;women get treated better&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (the UK Walker study). Here're some typical quotes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Of 1830 respondents, 76% of men and 72% of women reported harassment in the previous 12 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Queensland)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{overtaking drivers pass closer to cyclists} when the rider wears a helmet, rides away from the edge of the road, is male, or when the vehicle concerned is a bus or heavy goods vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(UK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to remember is that the differences Walker found were small - 1.35m vs 1.40m passing distance. There are other studies, once you're past the first page of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/webhp?q=motorist%20treatment%20cyclist%20gender&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this google search&lt;/a&gt; it gets interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2013/05/how-far-from-the-curb-should-you-ride/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This report cites references&lt;/a&gt; when talking about passing distances and how far from the curb you should ride, and talks to police and cycling advocates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As cyclists we should be confident in taking up as much of the lane as we feel we need to in order to be safe. At a minimum we should ride 50cm from the curb but we should be confident in using more of the lane if the conditions dictate it — as a result of roadside obstacles, upcoming intersections, narrow lanes, potholes or any other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T04:32:42.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24170" CreationDate="2014-08-15T04:52:45.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using SPD-SL, cleat covers or insertable seem to be the only &quot;nice&quot; ways to go. [I use Look, so I'm in a similar boat.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you switch to SPD (which requires different pedals), there are plenty of shoes (and sandals) which have recessed cleats so you can walk around without damaging anything and wear all day without problems. And a lot of people use plain ole' SPD on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T04:52:45.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24182" CreationDate="2014-08-15T11:12:35.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're in the correct position, you can either fight, flight or embarrass. If you're in the wrong place, than just admit you're wrong, wave an apologetic hand and move on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're in the right (and it sounds like you were), then first option is to fight. A scowling look, with a snarling &quot;what?&quot; and then pointing out the helmet cam on the lid generally works for me. (Whether the camera is on or off doesn't matter, most people don't like the thought that their fractious behaviour could come back to haunt them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second choice is flight. Just cycle on out of there, don't stop, don't look back, just bravely run away. There's no shame in that. The car is bigger and heavier than you and will beat you in a fight. Running away from a bully doesn't help to change their behaviour, but you'll live to fight another day. They don't give out bravery medals to cyclists adopting the primary position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there's the more nuanced option to embarrass. It really helps here to start smooth and make direct contact. I'll sometimes hold their eye and start talking. They'll then be forced to open a window (if it's not open already), then I'll make a spurious guess at why they were beeping me &quot;oh, sorry, did I drop something and you were letting me know?&quot; - ultimately you're trying to get them to tell you that they think you shouldn't be there. At which point you can invoke the helmet cam, or just call them an narrow-minded, blinkered idiot and just carry on your day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, instead I'd ask them if they'd have behaved like that if I'd been a cop, or their mother, or their child. Chances are very slim that they would. Just force them to think for a moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="425" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T11:12:35.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24193" CreationDate="2014-08-15T14:02:22.020" Score="3" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Javelin Primitivo with cantilever brakes. My front fork is carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YvAMo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I brake the front wheel will &quot;shudder&quot;. I replaced my wheels and adjusted my brakes (toed them in). I have even tried my road bike wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thought on solving this? I would like to upgrade my brakes but I want to keep the option for my wide tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T02:54:42.250" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T02:54:42.250" Title="Front wheel shudder on Cyclocross brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-15T14:37:50.037" Score="3" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several times during the year I occasionally have to work night shifts (mostly during winter). This can make longer training sessions difficult as the shifts which allow this type of training ride (+2 hours) that are not days off finish at 1:00am. Going out training at this time in the morning can be fun but I more often than not hit the rollers (deer, drunks and potholes). I would like to get in longer rides this coming winter but am finding sitting on rollers for more than one hour and a half painful. Would a 'top of the range' pair of bib shorts designed for long distance (assos s7) riding help ease the pain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T21:26:39.563" Title="Do more expensive bib shorts make a difference when sat on a turbo trainer for hours on end?" Tags="&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24459" CreationDate="2014-08-15T14:52:31.683" Score="2" ViewCount="1566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought an 11-34T 8 speed rear cassette and noticed that it is a Megarange cassette with a substantially large jump between the lowest and 2nd gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this work with my existing Alivio rear mech or do I need to get a different one? (Such as in this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9432/which-derailleur-should-i-use-with-a-shimano-7-speed-freewheel-14-34t-megarange&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12861" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T07:11:10.660" Title="Suitable rear mech for Megarange cassettes" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24189" CreationDate="2014-08-15T15:02:28.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake and fork could be at a natural resonance frequency.  Like if you shake a bus pole at just the right frequency you can get it to shake.  Is there any play in the headset or brake?  You can try shortening the pad.  Give up cantilever brakes for a cyclocross means it road bike.  And you need to change out the levers to go side pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T16:16:05.997" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T16:16:05.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24189" CreationDate="2014-08-15T15:27:48.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stutter comes from the way the brakes are actuated. From the picture on Javelin's site I see that the housing is held at the top of the head-tube. When you brake the fork flexes backwards causing the cable's tension to change. The brakes will be slightly released causing to fork to move again, re-tightening the brakes, pushing the fork backwards. This happens in quick succession thus the brake stutter. The way to cure it is to move the attachment of the cable-housing to the crown of the fork. There are front cable hangers that can be screwed to the hole where a side-pull brake would be attached.&#xA;Google for &lt;strong&gt;'Front Cable Hanger Fork Mount'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastEditorUserId="10401" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T15:47:25.237" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T15:47:25.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24182" CreationDate="2014-08-15T15:37:38.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is their intent?  To get you out of their way, and to get you off the road.  You already know when your tire is flat, something fell off, or your shirt is un-tucked.  Sometimes you might get a quick beep if they are going to pass.  You might know the person as well and they are being friendly, but I asked my wife not to honk at me from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should you respond?  First hold your line and be alert for situation changes.  The horn is just noise, you are there legally.  They already see you so most likely they are not going to run into you on purpose.  Considering it is rush hour they are probably more concerned with getting to work than trying to bump you off your bike and causing a scene. I will move over to the center of the lane (from the &quot;outside&quot; tire track) when people honk at me to mark my space.  If shouting occurs, I give a simple &quot;No thanks, drive safe&quot;.  I then try to laugh it off and enjoy the performance boost of the adrenalin.  If you are in a suburb type area, you probably won't get the chance to confront them anyway.  For more fun, if you are right behind them at the red light, you can shout back to tell them to hurry up they are going too slow when it turns green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point that I have noticed is that anybody that honks or causes trouble, you will likely not to see them again.  I can name about 7 or 8 problem drivers I have had in the past, but only 1 of them was a repeat offender.  The distribution of problem drivers is pretty random as well, you'll find good stretches and bad.  It all comes down to the timing as well, nobody sticks to a perfect schedule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I only have a few thousand miles of commuting on moderately used roads.  My advice might be my undoing today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-08-16T05:39:19.497" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T05:39:19.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24191" CreationDate="2014-08-15T15:41:10.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will probably work.  The one thing you need to look at is the length of your derailleur cage.  With that really large cog, you might have to adjust your chain length, and then your derailleur might not be long enough to properly tension the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T15:41:10.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-15T17:20:05.520" Score="3" ViewCount="3981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know what I can do to increase the comfort and enjoyment of my two toddlers while riding in the bike trailer, typically for short to medium distances (3-4 miles most often, around a half hour or so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an older model Schwinn two-kid bike trailer, the kind with no proper seat bottom (sling-style).  I have a 3 year old and a 1.5 year old child, and neither really cares for riding in the trailer - but particularly the younger one, who ends up squished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to fashion a seat out of a piece of wood just the right length to fit on the crossbars, which helped a lot on the squishing, but I'm curious what else I can do safely to increase the comfort of the children.  The trailer specifically says not to use a carseat, and I don't think I could fit two in anyway (or one plus fit the older guy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13404" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T11:35:47.830" Title="Making my children's bike trailer more comfortable" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-15T18:13:49.990" Score="3" ViewCount="1001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently been riding bmx, racing to be more specific. I ride around my neighborhood a lot when im not at the track and have noticed this loud clanking noise. I didn't know where it was coming from at first. Thought it was maybe the pedal. But then I started paying more attention to it. It happens on my right foot when I pedal. This happens about every 10-15 minutes and sometimes I don't get it for an hour or two. When I was at the track I was standing up at the gate with my right foot forward. Then it happened. I was simply standing there and it made the loud clank noise, but then I found out where the problem is.(sort of). When it happened my right foot went down one crank. My foot went foward with out the tire or bike moving. What's the problem? Will it cause future damage? My guess is that the crank is slipping and not engaging. I have a 3 piece cliq crank. I'll try to discribe the sound a little better. It sounds like your hitting the bottom bracket with a rock or tapping it with your finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13406" LastEditorUserId="13406" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T19:35:29.847" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T23:19:09.350" Title="What's this noise? Is it from my crank?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24191" CreationDate="2014-08-15T19:26:19.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I have noticed about the mega range derailleurs is they all seem to have very large jockey wheels. The megarange seem to run with 16-20 teeth vs 10-14 teeth. It may be a cost saving issue or part of the design. I am basing this on the small sample of bikes I have on hand. If your Alivio has the smaller standard tooth count wheel it may work but be a little clunky going on to the big gog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T19:26:19.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24182" CreationDate="2014-08-15T19:30:34.697" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is mostly in Canada as well (southern Ontario), so perhaps I can provide a closer-to-home viewpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bike in a city with poor infrastructure that was designed for cars first, and everything else second (though that's changing). This means I get into a lot of situations where drivers honk at me, typically around 1 incident per 100km biked in-city. My experience is that there are several categories of drivers, and that appearance matters a lot in determining which ones are going to honk at you and why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do-Gooders&lt;/strong&gt;: Some drivers (usually elderly men, or soccer Moms in SUVs in my experience) think that cycling on the road is unsafe. If you look like a &quot;cyclist&quot; (i.e. jersey, eye protection, helmet, nice bike), these folks will usually leave you alone, and pass you carefully. If you look like a child (or IT worker, i.e. t-shirt, jeans, beater-bike or brightly coloured bike), then they will instead &lt;strong&gt;assume you just don't know what you're doing&lt;/strong&gt;. Their response varies from approaching slowly from behind on an otherwise deserted street, and honking before they pass, to trying to get into a shouting match about how unsafe it is for you to bike on the road during a 50km/h descent. In general, what they want is for you to pull over and walk your bike to somewhere &quot;safe&quot; to &quot;play&quot;. My view is that the best response is usually to shout obscenities at them, or otherwise &lt;strong&gt;make it very clear that you do not want their help&lt;/strong&gt;. Otherwise, they will tend continue harassing you and create a dangerous situation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not Fast Enough&lt;/strong&gt;: These drivers &lt;strong&gt;want you to either go faster, or pull over while they pass you.&lt;/strong&gt; I usually encounter them when biking on arterial roads (speed limits &gt; 60km/h, &gt; 4 lanes, few turns or lights). Usually these drivers are not confident they can pass you safely at speed, and traffic won't let them get around you. Rather than waiting until it is safe to pass (as they are legally obligated to do), they want you to get out of the way instead. I usually think of these people as well meaning, if perhaps a little misguided (at least they know enough not to pass you unsafely!). &lt;strong&gt;If there's no gap coming in traffic, and we're far from an intersection, and I think there's room to pass, I'll pull in closer to the curb and slow a bit so they can get by. Otherwise, I will move out directly into the middle of the lane&lt;/strong&gt;, to make it clear that I don't want them to pass me here. Sometimes they honk a little more, but usually they'll just wait until there's room to pass. Additionally, I again find that these drivers are more patient if I &lt;strong&gt;look like a &quot;cyclist&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. if I'm on a training ride), than if I look like a normal person (i.e. if I'm just going to the store for a jug of milk), even if I'm travelling at the same speed. Gearing down and spinning frantically so that it looks like you're going as fast as you can may help.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Near Misses&lt;/strong&gt;: These drivers have (for whatever reason), nearly hit you. &lt;strong&gt;They are honking because they are surprised and upset&lt;/strong&gt;. Usually this will happen when I'm where drivers don't expect me to be (for instance, if I'm taking the lane and they speed around the corner without checking). &lt;strong&gt;Usually you can ignore these at the time&lt;/strong&gt;, and think about how to adapt your cycling strategy in that area for the future. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Friends&lt;/strong&gt;: These drivers think that they know you (they could even be right). &lt;strong&gt;They are honking because they want to say hello&lt;/strong&gt;, and they don't realize how loud car horns are when you're not inside one. I don't know what to do about these. You can tell your friends not to do that, or to be lighter on the horn, but sometimes people you don't know will do it any way. Just keep rollin'.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enemies/Trolls&lt;/strong&gt;: Some drivers actually want to kill you. Or at least, &lt;strong&gt;give you a scare&lt;/strong&gt;. These folks will usually try to dive very close to me, and blast their horns while passing. Sometimes they'll also falsely warn you about a flat tire or dropped item, though this depends on the region in my experience. I usually encounter them on country roads, or roads that lead toward the country. If you want to give them a taste of their own medicine, you could get a loud noisemaker of your own (like an air horn), and blast it at them in response. Otherwise, not much to be done. Unlike groups 1 and 2, these people might be more inclined to harass people who look like &quot;cyclists&quot;, though they might just harass anyone one a bike period.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastEditorUserId="2513" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T22:44:18.970" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T22:44:18.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24181" CreationDate="2014-08-15T20:16:38.203" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;@DWGKNZ was right, turned out that there &lt;strong&gt;was&lt;/strong&gt; a 3mm hex at the bottom. Picture of the removed plug, upside down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/qNFbO11.jpg?1&quot; alt=&quot;plug&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for quick and useful advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13391" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T20:16:38.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24197" CreationDate="2014-08-15T23:19:09.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had similar problems (clicking on the right side down stroke) before, and it is probably the bottom bracket.  But the first thing to do is to check and make sure that you don't have a loose bolt/ nut somewhere.  This could be in your pedal, the crank, or somewhere else in your drivetrain.  If you make sure that everything is tight and it still doesn't go away it's time to try replacing your bottom bracket.  It's a pretty easy fix, but does require a special tool.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cartridge.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cartridge.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5371" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T23:19:09.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24190" CreationDate="2014-08-16T06:33:18.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be perfectly honest it MIGHT help but if you're wearing decent shorts and can't stand 1.5 hours in the saddle then you just need to get through it and do more hours. I find that after a few weeks off the road bike, it takes a few rides for me to get used to being back in the saddle constantly on a ride (as opposed to less frequently on MTB).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T06:33:18.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24170" CreationDate="2014-08-16T07:06:11.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cleat covers are fine but there's no reason why a pair of road cleats with the rubber anti-slip bumpers still in place would scratch slate. If you're using MTB SPD cleats then definitely they'll damage floors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be totally honest, if I'm concerned (for example one cafe has steep stairs to the bathroom) I tend to just take the shoes off. If the cafe is a regular stop, why not ask the owner if you can all leave some sandals or shower shoes in a bag at the cafe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T07:06:11.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21113" CreationDate="2014-08-16T07:09:44.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Marc said, with the heating of the frame, it's impossible to know how strong it is but I wouldn't ride it. Given you can pick up a carbon frame and fork from a reputable Chinese manufacturer for a few hundred dollars, the risks are not worth the rewards. Get the parts, dump the frame and then buy something else (a second hand Madone frame can't be that expensive on ebay).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T07:09:44.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21277" CreationDate="2014-08-16T07:15:36.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new ones for 10-speed and 11-speed are frequently single-use. I buy KMC chains and half-links these days to avoid the possibility of that happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T07:15:36.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19108" CreationDate="2014-08-16T07:18:34.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's little difference noticeable but the chainrings will make a big difference as some cheap ones will flex a surprising amount&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T07:18:34.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24182" CreationDate="2014-08-16T08:51:51.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If somebody in a car draws level with you and you feel the situation is dangerous, just brake and they'll whizz by. I've done this several times; the motorist has never tried to stay level or slowed down to let me catch up. And even if the motorist does slow down, you can just stay safely behind them, where it's much harder for them to hurt or intimidate you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, their goal isn't always intimidation: I once had a motorist draw level with me and their passenger wound down the window and started asking me for directions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13174" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T08:51:51.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24219" CreationDate="2014-08-16T14:37:01.917" Score="1" ViewCount="18300" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will this SLX 9 speed crank work with newer 10 speed groupsets? It looks to me that 9 and 10 speed cranks are the same. Or am I missing something? Are the spaces between the rings different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NQfB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pictured: Shimano 9 speed slx crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9166" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T11:39:14.713" Title="Will a 9 speed crank work with 10 speed groupset?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-08-17T22:39:39.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-16T19:49:17.887" Score="3" ViewCount="2046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm adjusting the threaded headset on my Brompton (if that matters). I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threaded-headset-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool's&lt;/a&gt; articles on this topic and followed the recommendations. I adjust the upper race so that there is no play in the headset and handlebars flop to one side when I lift the front wheel holding the frame. The problem is, when I tighten the locknut with a wrench while holding the upper race with another wrench I still have the upper race move slightly. Thus, I get too stiff an adjustment -- handlebars do not flop to one side anymore and I feel the front wheel rotate tighter than it probably should. How do I properly tighten the locknut then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. For now, I have managed to tighten it somehow, with trial and error and then more trial and error. But still I believe I'm missing something here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13299" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T21:17:17.377" Title="Tightening threaded headset locknut" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24213" CreationDate="2014-08-16T21:17:17.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you get to Carnegie Hall? Practice, Practice, Practice. There is no magic bullet for dealing with this problem ( it's the same problem you'll have adjusting cones on a hub. ) Knowing just how loose to leave it so it's tightened correctly when you're done is something that comes with experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tweaking required to get it just right is one of the reasons threadless headsets were invented. They take far less labor and effort to install. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick I've tried is to slightly overtighten and then use the lower wrench to tighten up against the locknut. Either way it helps if you keep pressure on both wrenches rather than trying to keep one still while tightening the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T21:17:17.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24190" CreationDate="2014-08-16T21:26:39.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The big difference between rollers and the outside is that your position is much more static inside. If you are good enough on rollers to stand every once in a while that might help. ( I'm not ). Maybe just take a 5 minute break every hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your shorts/saddle are comfortable outside for 2+ hrs, I doubt expensive shorts will really make much of a difference. However, when it comes to saddle comfort everything works for somebody and nothing works for everybody. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try the expensive Assos cream to start with, it's only a $30 experiment vs a $300 one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T21:26:39.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24212" CreationDate="2014-08-17T07:04:11.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 is a little bit narrower, but generally a crank with 1 measure narrower chain will work pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T07:04:11.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24212" CreationDate="2014-08-17T11:39:14.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 10 speed crankset has smaller spacing between the rings due to the smaller chain to fit the rear cassette. A nine speed crank set will work with a 10 speed drive train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it's not all plain sailing. You can have trouble using a 10 speed FD with a 9 speed crank set. It doesn't shift as far out as the 9 speed so you may experience sloppy changes to the outer ring and chain rub against the FD in some gears. Some people I've heard of run a 9 speed shifter, FD and crank set up on the front and 10 on the back to avoid this but most are happy not to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T11:39:14.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24220" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-17T13:00:15.010" Score="2" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a Concorde Mistral with Columbus Gara tubing and would like to transfer my Campagnolo group from an SLX frame that is too big. The Concorde frame has a front derailleur mounting bracket on the seat tube just like the SLX frame I already have. I understand I would be losing the indexed feature the Shimano has, but would it be possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13421" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T11:39:20.873" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T12:17:00.610" Title="Can I replace my Shimano RX 100 with a Campagnolo group?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;groupsets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-17T17:16:27.323" Score="0" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I purchased a pair of mtb shoes one size larger than I needed (due to lack of availability and time), sizes I needed: uk 11 the size I purchased: uk 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a turbo trainer rides or cyclocross race I have cramps/pain in feet and toes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I replace the shoes or could it be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-17T21:01:22.363" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T08:03:01.967" Title="Cramps/pain in feet and toes after turbo trainer rides and cyclocross races" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24225" CreationDate="2014-08-17T22:27:57.847" Score="1" ViewCount="782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a bike, second hand, yesterday. The bike looks quite new and it is ok, but I notice that with some gear I got a clicking noise. After inspecting the bike, I notice that the chain does not flow steadely on the rear cassette, and this make the clicking noise. &#xA;I don't know how to be more precise, so I uplodaded a video where the problem is quite clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/rQnWm8ppcmo?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; (second 5/6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the chain is really close to the other disk (is it called cassette?), maybe because it is misaligned. &#xA;Of course this is not only about the noise, I am afraid that it will ruin the chain/bike.&#xA;Plus, if this is a serious problem, maybe I could just ask the guy I bought the bike from to take it back. However, I would be totally happy to solve the problem myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please consider that I am a TOTAL beginner :)&#xA;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13428" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T22:47:05.527" Title="Chain Noise I identified the problem, don't know how to solve it (chain/cassette?)" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;clicking&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24224" CreationDate="2014-08-17T22:47:05.527" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to read up on how to tune a rear derailluer, but if you just want to get going, all that is needed is a minor adjustment using the barrel screw (clearly seen in the video) where the cable comes in. Turn the screw clockwise 1/4 turn at a time, and the chain will move away from the cog (The cassette is the full set of cogs). Trick is not to make big adjustments - no more than 1/4 turn at a time, and count the turns so you can go back to where you started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once this is just clearing and not catching, check the gears are all working properly. Sometimes, especially with cheaper bikes and old worn out gears, its not possible to get it perfect, and you need to compromise a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T22:47:05.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24226" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-18T02:12:12.533" Score="3" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I choose the 1/3 Century or Metric Century for my first organized, supported group ride?&#xA;In one week I will participate in my first organized ride since buying my road bike in May. The longest training I've done is 28 mi averaging 14-15 miles/hour on chip sealed roads with maximum elevation gain of 800 feet. Both routes will be similar terrain and elevation change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10735" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T02:52:06.763" Title="1/3 Century or Metric Century?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24226" CreationDate="2014-08-18T02:19:51.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're asking should you try to ride 33 miles or 65 miles when your longest training ride is shorter than either?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'd be much better off trying a 60 mile training ride before the event. Sure, you could probably do that on the day, but you could easily end up either failing or struggling through and feeling miserable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think the &quot;supported&quot; part will make a difference perhaps try carrying a bit of cash and choosing a ride that lets you stop a couple of times at shops where you can buy snacks and drinks. Personally, I'd carry both on the ride. A extra couple of pounds isn't going to make any difference unless you're right on the line before complete exhaustion stops you. And you shouldn't be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T02:19:51.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24226" CreationDate="2014-08-18T02:40:48.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends how comfortable you were feeling at the end of the 28 mile ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rule of thumb when advising people is that if they are &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; comfortable riding one distance, then they can probably ride for half an hour more at a similar pace, or 20% further if they keep to a lower pace overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, the answer comes out the same: do the 33 mile ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60-odd miles is a long, hard ride if you are not used to such distances. I would only recommend it if you were riding 50 miles comfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supported rides are a good situation for extending your limits, but I recommend that you take advantage of the support, rather than rely or depend upon it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T02:52:06.763" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T02:52:06.763" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15047" CreationDate="2014-08-18T03:52:09.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thought I might add some extra comments to those very good and comprehensive examples of the aero v weight scenarios that Robert provided last year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular the dynamic scenario of accelerations on flat terrain, which is a little more complex than steady state cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some might think light wheels would accelerate better than heavier aero wheels, but it's not necessarily the case. Indeed it's more likely the opposite is true, since once you are travelling at speed, the energy demand is dominated by two factors; changes in kinetic energy (including rotational) &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; overcoming substantial and ever increasing air drag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you reduce the energy demand for overcoming air drag, then the energy required for that can instead be used to increase kinetic energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not that results in a performance gain comes down to the starting speed, how long the acceleration lasts for, as well as the magnitude of the aerodynamic and mass differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I go through this issue in some detail in this blog post I did last year:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://alex-cycle.blogspot.com.au/2013/02/the-sum-of-parts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://alex-cycle.blogspot.com.au/2013/02/the-sum-of-parts.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that item I compare 10-second long accelerations from zero speed and from a starting speed of 30km/h. In the examples I used a typical aerodynamic difference I have measured between such wheels, and an exaggerated difference in wheel mass of 0.5 kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results are plotted on charts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out that if you are starting the sprint rolling from speed (in this case 30km/h), the heavier aero wheel rider edges ahead immediately and their lead continues to grow. The heavier aero wheel is always the better choice in that scenario (notwithstanding the myriad of other wheel choice factors - which I outline the in the linked post):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P2gfI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Acceleration of light v aero wheels rolling start&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it's a little different from a dead stop where the lighter wheel rider has an initial advantage, however the heavier aero wheel rider begins to catch up and over takes the lighter wheel rider after about 7 seconds, and thereafter rides away from the lighter wheel rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m4TBD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Acceleration of light v aero wheels standing start&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a hot dog crit with the near dead stop turns presents an interesting dilemma, and perhaps could benefit from more individualised assessment. Else if the racing never really slows down all that much for corners, then an aero wheelset is almost always going to be faster and/or require less energy, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; accelerate faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the exact scenario for any individual depends on the shape of their sprint power vs time plot as some riders have a higher peak power, some riders experience a more rapid power fades, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The principles however don't change, as the nature and overall shape of the plots will be similar since the energy supply is fixed and it goes to overcoming the total of each energy demand factor, i.e kinetic energy changes, overcoming air drag, rolling resistance, potential energy changes (gravity), drivetrain friction. Require less energy for one, and more is available for the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that item I also cover the impact of differences in rotational wheel mass / moment of inertia, which turns out to be such a small factor it's almost negligible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T03:52:09.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24221" CreationDate="2014-08-18T08:03:01.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's almost certainly the shoes but exactly what is a really variable question. New shoe problems tend to fit into the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1, Does the shoe fit properly (length and width)? Seems the answer is no as you got a size too big which means your foot will move a bit. This can be mitigated with the correct insole and you can even get mouldable ones which you heat, put in your shoes then put your shoes on.&#xA;2, Is the insole right? Loads of shoes come with an &quot;average&quot; insole which doesn't really suit everyone. My road shoes came with 4 sets of inserts to tune the fit properly and it's noticeable when I go back to the cheaper ones. Consider transferring your old insoles if they fit or get some new ones&#xA;3, Is the cleat position right? Given the shoe size is wrong, this will be hard to get right just by eye. I tend to take a few hours riding with a pair of shoes to get it approximately right and then maybe another 20-30 hours to get it exactly right. After that I either use the system the shoes use to retain the cleat position when I put new ones on or the low-tech approach of a marker pen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd do 3, then 2 then if that fails and your feet still hurt, get new shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T08:03:01.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24233" CreationDate="2014-08-18T08:41:10.303" Score="16" ViewCount="19071" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always used a lock nut with a presta valve, but I know others who don't use it and leave the valve stem to protrude through the rim hole without fastening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, if any, are the advantages of not using a locking nut for a presta valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13433" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T11:47:49.630" Title="Use a lock nut on a presta valve?" Tags="&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24232" CreationDate="2014-08-18T08:58:42.457" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advantage is that it's quicker and easier to get the tube out and tyre off, and you never have to deal with jammed nuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IME the nut will be wedged unbelievably tight the one time you get a puncture at an inconvenient moment, and you'll end up breaking the valve (if you have pliers) or not being able to get at the hole (if you don't). The problem there is that you do the nut up firmly when the tube is inflated to 100psi, then it goes flat and without the air pressure &quot;firmly&quot; becomes &quot;OMG&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix for that over-tight nut is obviously to inflate the tube. Which is fine if there's a wee hole somewhere away from the valve, but if the tube burst or you brought a spare tube instead of a patch kit you just have to somehow get the value out of the tyre. Which is surprisingly hard to do if the only tools you have to hand are whatever is on the side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages of leaving it off: The nut is slightly useful if you have a flat-section rim drilled for Schrader values, in that it stops sand and muck getting in through the gap between the valve and the rim and rattling round in a hollow rim or causing punctures. Obviously this isn't an issue if your rim is drilled properly, and a better solution is to buy tubes with Schrader valves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nut can make putting a loose tyre back on by holding the bead in place by the valve while you try to balance the bead around the rim so it doesn't blow off. But a properly fitting tyre doesn't do that. And you could carry one nut in your repair kit, rather than one on each wheel (a saving of at least half a gram!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit) the nut has to be tight enough that it doesn't loosen when the tube is fully inflated, but not so tight that it's hard to undo when the tube is flat. But often when you tighten it with the tube flat, when you pump it up the nut turns out to be loose. So to get it right you need to let the air out of the tube, tighten the nut some more, then pump it back up. Possibly more than once. Or you can tighten it once the tube is inflated and hope for the best. In which case you can easily end up back at the start of this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other 99% of the time the nut does nothing harmful. Nothing very useful either. It's just there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit) Note that the question is not &quot;what are the advantages of using the nut&quot; or even &quot;how do you use the nut&quot;, it is specifically &quot;advantages of &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; using the nut&quot;. I don't think &quot;if you do this the nut works fine&quot; is an advantage of leaving the nut off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T00:59:08.990" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T00:59:08.990" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24232" CreationDate="2014-08-18T09:33:13.460" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect a big part of the reason people leave them off is because it's something 'real cyclists' do- along with leaving off the dustcap, lining tyre logos up with valves etc. IME there are no real disadvantages to having them on apart from maybe a few seconds in changing tubes, which might get you some tutting on a group ride if people are hanging around waiting for you but that's about it. &#xA;That said I don't use them on my road bike, and I do line my tyres up with my valves!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5477" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T09:33:13.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24232" CreationDate="2014-08-18T10:18:57.967" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason I don't use them is that they rattle when they come loose. If you're heavy handed when pumping though, the nut is useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remembered one other reason to use them... removing them if you've got a tubeless setup is a recipe for disaster&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastEditorUserId="13410" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T13:16:20.237" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T13:16:20.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24232" CreationDate="2014-08-18T11:47:51.753" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer having the nut, because it makes pumping much easier, especially road side with a frame pump.  I put them on finger tight and then retighten after inflating, and I've never had one jam, or rattle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T11:47:51.753" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4720" CreationDate="2014-08-18T13:20:23.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're really that concerned, get a roll of 3M &quot;copter tape&quot; and cut it to the same size as the cleat. Given the cleat should never move, the most you should get is a bit of marking where the cleat sits which you'll never see as the cleat should never move (and it's helpful when you're replacing cleats)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T13:20:23.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16964" CreationDate="2014-08-18T13:27:04.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to say I never consider which pads I'll be using with rotors when I buy either. I buy organic for best stopping power and metallic for longest life (kevlar somewhere in the middle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mountain biking, the weather and type of mud/grit you're riding on is a FAR greater killer of pads than a rotor; you can easily get through a new set of pads in a few hours in sandy and wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T13:27:04.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21083" CreationDate="2014-08-18T13:29:24.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no convention for it, it's entirely down to personal preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T13:29:24.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13084" CreationDate="2014-08-18T14:03:59.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Victoria it's unlikely because until recently it was illegal for anyone over the age of &lt;em&gt;10&lt;/em&gt; to ride in a bicycle trailer. And now you can tow someone &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; as long as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they have a medical certificate (signed by a medical practitioner)&#xA;showing they have a disability or medical condition which makes it&#xA;reasonable for them to ride in the trailer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you and your passenger comply with any conditions on the certificate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the certificate has an expiry date (if the medical condition or disability is temporary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they carry the certificate and can show it to the police when asked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, really. Because for some reason a bike trailer is safe for kids, but unsafe for adults. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/safety-and-road-rules/road-rules/a-to-z-of-road-rules/bicycles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vic Roads ... bicycles&lt;/a&gt; and scroll down to &quot;Bicycle trailers&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just more wisdom from the revheads who design our roads and rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastEditorUserId="896" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T04:12:29.550" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T04:12:29.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24242" CreationDate="2014-08-18T15:07:52.390" Score="3" ViewCount="2418" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Situtation&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old hardtail collecting dust. I occurred to me that a rigid fork, and some wide (i.e. &amp;gt;50 mm), slick tires would make it a pretty ideal commuter for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I thought it'd be great the setup those wide, slick tires tubeless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I just recalled that the rims on that bike are drilled for schrader valves. I had forgotten because when I bought the bike I immediately purchased the grommets necessary to use presta valves on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;I notice two things&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first is that it doesn't appear the tubeless schrader valves are readily available (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/search.php?q=tubeless+valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.universalcycles.com/search.php?q=tubeless+valve&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Stans conversion kit comes with tape with a valve already attached (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=1208&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=1208&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Question:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will leaving those grommets in place allow me to set up the rims tubeless, or am I stuck running tubes since the are rims drilled for schrader valves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T16:19:36.440" Title="Tubeless conversion on schrader valve rims" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;valves&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24241" CreationDate="2014-08-18T15:28:26.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mean, put enough Stans in to the wheels, and you can run tubeless on just about any rim setup.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have non-tubeless tires, you may run in to an issue with the tires themselves being too porous, and that is hard to get around.  But I imagine that the combination of rim-tape, grommet, and Stans will be fine.  The rubber wedge/plug thing on the base of the Stans valve stems is pretty wide, I bet it would work even without the grommet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T15:28:26.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24241" CreationDate="2014-08-18T15:29:30.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to solve your problem is by doing the ghetto tubeless method with the 20 inch tube. The other method, with the gorilla tape should be possible as well by cutting a valve out of an old tube and leaving enough contact material with the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Gorilla-Tape-Tubeless-Conversion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Gorilla-Tape-Tubeless-Conversion.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T16:06:20.250" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T16:06:20.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24241" CreationDate="2014-08-18T16:19:36.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the grommets worked with the tubes they should work with Stan's conversion kit. The kit is really just a wheel side tube.  The kit is thicker rubber than most tubes.  Unless the grommet extends a long way on the inside I doubt it would cause the kit not to seal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Stan's web site has a list of compatible tires.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/help/recommendedtires.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Recommended Tires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T16:19:36.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24220" CreationDate="2014-08-18T18:08:43.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Pete H has commented, a partial swap will probably not work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On frames / bikes of this age, things were easier as compatibility was not quite so much of an issue, so some elements could probably work together OK - but if you are not sure / inexperienced, best is to swap everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth checking, though, that the threads for the bottom bracket on both frames are the same - some Concordes used to be Italian threads, your existing frame may be Enlish and they are not interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check which you have, measure the width of the shell, width-ways (i.e don't try and measure the diameter) excluding the cups that screw into it - 70 mm Italian, 68 mm English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13442" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T18:08:43.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14261" CreationDate="2014-08-18T20:24:13.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have the same problem with Velocity A23s--I read all the above--and while some mean well--the answer seems to be that some tires are simply not compatible with the rim(as some have mentioned)!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was riding Conti-Gatorskins-700x23 yesterday--flatted and where normally I can use my hands to put on a tire or take off had to use tire irons for both feats--and where I can normally change a tire and be on my way easily in 5 minutes +- it took me 20 minutes in the hot sun after 50 miles!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So thought today I would put on some Conti 4000 Grand Prixs 700x25s---I even put the tires in the hot sun --- about ruined a rim trying to mount the tire--using tire irons and then reverting to a screwdriver(which of course scratched the rim)--and it was simply not possible to get the tire mounted--oh yeah and I use velo plugs!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I could get the tire mounted and it stretched a bit--I don't want to go through changing a flat==like I did yesterday--Needs to be a more standard sizing for both rim and tires!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm either ditching the rims or finding a tire that works with the rim(which I'll try first as it's the cheapest way to go!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if anyone knows of a tire that works well with the Velocity A23s--by all means please let me know!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13443" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T20:24:13.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4254" CreationDate="2014-08-19T00:33:18.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many bicycle chains use different platings for the inner and outer links.  Inner links are typically plated with a nickel/Teflon surface.  Outer links will only get a nickel plating.  The extra Teflon coating helps the inner surface of the chain glide over the cogs on the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video of the manufacture process:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtube.com/watch?v=h8j5-dC6_x8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtube.com/watch?v=h8j5-dC6_x8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T00:33:18.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24276" CreationDate="2014-08-19T02:52:38.557" Score="1" ViewCount="40692" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/13694/13446&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I fill my tubes up to about 85 psi the tire pops off the rim and the tub gets caught on the rim and blows up.  I have gone through 4 tubes in two days at this point and the only thing that seems to help is to inflate them to about 60 psi.  Even putting pressure on the tires so they seat correctly (not sure if that is the correct term, I am quite new to cycling) only works until I put weight on the bike, and then the tubes blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some info, I frankensteined a bike together out of used/old parts so my rims are quite old (although relatively true after ~8 hours of work) but the tires are falling apart.  The rims are 27's (inches?) and there were really no options for newer ones at the place I put my bike together at, only 700's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could replacing the tires fix this?  I would like to get the tubes to around 90 psi since at 60 they are quite flat when riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  Some details on the tire, tube and rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rim:  ~1 Inch wide at the top, ~25 1/2 inches in diameter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I couldn't really figure out how to check the bead.&#xA;Rim tape looks fine, it is some hardish plastic covering the spoke screws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/v7l70#rGj7QpY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See these images of the tire.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Supposedly a 27 x 1 1/8 tire that holds 90psi.  Not sure what else is helpful info other than the pictures of the deteriorating side walls (and the lip at the bottom that catches the bead)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tube:  700x18-23 27x1 48 mm presta valve.  I can't find max pressure, but I am sure it is in excess of 90 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13446" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T13:29:50.723" Title="Tire popping out of rim when inflating tube" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24250" CreationDate="2014-08-19T03:20:59.143" Score="5" ViewCount="3112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just picked up a cheap wheelset to replace the wheels on a vintage bike. The old bike had a 5 speed freewheel (I think. The model printed on it is shimano-ug).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new rear hub is a shimano fh-rm30 8 speed freehub. Is it possible to either remove a some of the gears from the cassette and replace them with spacers to make it a 5 speed. Or does a 5 speed cassette exist that could be installed with a few spacers?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would the best option be to making this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old wheels were 27 and new ones are 700c so no issues on brakes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13447" LastEditorUserId="13447" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T16:25:35.960" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T00:56:27.200" Title="5 speed cassette on 8 speed hub" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24249" CreationDate="2014-08-19T04:08:40.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to note is &quot;Does the 8 speed hub clear the dropouts ?&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot;&gt;spread the frame&lt;/a&gt; if steel. Since you're likely going from a 120mm to 130 mm (which is 2 sizes - 120-&gt;126-&gt;130), you should be cold setting it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second question would be &quot;Can the brakes reach the rim?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, to my knowledge, nobody makes a 5 speed cassette. You'll have to get a 7 or 8 speed cassette and tweak the limit screws on the rear derailleur so you shift in the appropriate range (if indexed, and the sprocket spacing matches the indexing [ I don't think it will, since a 5 speed freewheel should have 5.5 mm, while a 7 or 8 speed cassette 5 mm] ). Alternatively, if you have friction shifters (or can deal with friction shifters), set the limit screws, throw on an 8 speed chain and friction shift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Velo Orange makes &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/wheelsets-rims-hubs/complete-wheels/grand-cru-freewheel-rear-wheel-126mm-700c.html&quot;&gt;a cheap wheelset&lt;/a&gt; which can take a freewheel, and plenty of 5 speed freewheels are still around (e.g. IRD). (Note that you can get 126mm, 130 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation would be to cold set the frame to a 130 mm hub if you can and use your shifters in friction mode after adjusting the limit screws appropriately with a 7 or 8 speed cassette. If you don't want to cold set the frame, then buy a wheel with a freewheel hub of appropriate spacing (likely 120 mm if it came with a 5 speed freewheel - 120 mm hubs are still made, but I don't know who sells complete wheels so it may need to be built to order), buy a nice 5 speed freewheel from IRD and move on with your life. This will allow you to use indexing if you have it. The latter would be your only option if your frame is not steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-19T04:16:47.823" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T04:16:47.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-19T04:12:36.337" Score="2" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a road bike and the lock ring wasn't attached, it just hangs loosely on this spindle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hdb98.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lock ring&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem to reattach by screwing it in like one would expect. I tried screwing it in either direction and it simply doesn't catch. How do I reattach this ring, and what are the consequences of leaving it unattached?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4038" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T08:27:22.437" Title="Lock ring won't reattach on bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24251" CreationDate="2014-08-19T04:33:21.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not attaching it will be bad, the thing it's there to lock will loosen or tighten as you pedal. What it does depends on whether it's a left hand or right hand thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at it, it might be a right hand thread, meaning a French or Italian bottom bracket. So it will tighten up as you pedal. That's unusual and may be the reason the lockring is loose (whoever took it off turned it the usual way, it didn't go on, they gave up). If so, you're lucky and it's just a matter of putting it back on by tightening it the usual (right hand/clockwise) way. It may even be that the BB has a right hand thread and the lock ring is a replacement with left hand thread, and that's never going to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it might not be, the photo is not really clear. The thread is quite fine so it can be hard to get it started. If the thread is damaged you're going to have to fix or replace it, so it's worth spending a bit of time trying to get it to screw on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may well find that the reason it's loose is that it won't screw back on, and possibly that the reason the bike was sold is that that renders it unrideable. Or, if it is a right hand thread, that they're so annoying to work on and relatively rare as a result, that the owner decided to give it up as a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately the parts required are relatively cheap and readily available. Unfortunately you need special tools to do that change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a 6mm or 8mm allen key to undo the crank bolt (visible in the photo)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a crank puller (maybe)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bottom bracket spanner (BB spanner)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit - thanks Carel) It looks very much as though there are &quot;self extracting&quot; crank bolts - if you undo the bolt in the crank it will hit the ring that's been screwed in (you remove that by gripping onto the two little holes in it), and push the crank off. If it's been there a while it will help to lubricate the bolt/ring interface, ideally with grease but oil will also work. Removing that crank will give you much better access to the lock ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do this two ways: find a replacement lockring and BB cup and just swap those. The parts should be nearly free... if you can find them. It's not worth paying someone to do this, so you'll need to rely on the friend who has the parts also having the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way is to buy a modern cartridge/sealed bottom bracket and fit that. You really need to know which threads are on both sides of the BB to know what BB to buy, so first you need to pull the cranks and extract the existing BB. Personally, I would buy a sealed BB to replace that open one, so I wouldn't be too fussy about how exactly I removed the bottom bracket. But keep the axle, you need to measure that to determine who long it is because that's the key measurement when buying a replacement. Be much more careful about pulling the cranks, you need to keep those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what a bike shop will do. You're probably looking at $40 or more for the bottom bracket and $20-$30 minutes of labour. Or buy the BB and borrow or buy the tools ($30-$40 off Amazon or eBay, more from your local bike shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming it's not a standard/British bottom bracket, your choices are a non-threaded &quot;universal&quot; BB that just sits in the frame held by screwing the two parts together, and a threaded one that actually screws into the frame. The former will probably be easier to find, but be aware that it will almost certainly damage the threads in your bike over time, so once you put one in you can't go back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-08-19T08:27:22.437" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T08:27:22.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24248" CreationDate="2014-08-19T06:14:13.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would you really want to ride on these tires that are falling apart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need new tires. You may have to order. Biketiresdirect.com has 27s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make certain the rim has no defects that prevent the tire bead from holding. Make certain the tires are seated all the way around the rim (pay particular attention to the area around the valve) and the tube is not caught under the bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T06:14:13.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24256" CreationDate="2014-08-19T09:57:31.440" Score="32" ViewCount="83984" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to lubricate gear and brake cables in their tubular housings? Up until now, I've used CRC/WD-40 with an extension tube and attempted to squirt the lubricant into the tube housings. However, I suspect that this is fairly ineffective because 1. WD-40 is not a great lubricant (judging by the other Q+A on this site), and 2. the lubrication doesn't travel very far into the tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is a good way of doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13433" LastEditorUserId="1922" LastEditDate="2014-11-27T22:58:34.180" LastActivityDate="2017-08-10T10:03:21.333" Title="How to lubricate cables?" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24255" CreationDate="2014-08-19T10:06:26.157" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use chain lube since I also prefer the solvent+grease wet chain lubes. That's exactly what you want inside cable housings. Popping the quick releases on brakes or frame attachments on gear cables, then dribbling chain lube along the inner so it runs down into the outer works well on cables that are already installed and doesn't require re-adjusting anything afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many outers are pre-greased these days, and the way to fake that if you get cheaper outers is a grease gun. A syringe will work at a pinch, but it needs to be a small one or the force needed to squirt grease into the tiny hole in the outer will be extremely high. Trying to manipulate grease into a cable outer any other way is frustrating and I find it ineffective (I have tried!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using oil kind of works, but I find I need to re-oil the cables way too often. Grease works better. Teflon coated cables work even better, and the combo of teflon cables and pre-greased outers (or plastic-lined outers) is amazing. But not worth the $80 a set unless you're running 10 speed gears or something expensive (I use a Rohloff, and that doesn't care about fine adjustment, only cable friction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T10:06:26.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24255" CreationDate="2014-08-19T12:38:27.013" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;As many cable manufacturers &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html#lubrication&quot;&gt;recommend&lt;/a&gt;, modern cables+housings are designed to not be lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you have modern cables, I'd probably avoid lubricating the cables period. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T12:38:27.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7038" CreationDate="2014-08-19T13:25:08.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personal advice, don't clean it. Let it collect dirt first. Eventually there will come a time that you'll clean it depending on your use. Then you degrease and apply your preferred lube. Saves you time and money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13451" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T13:25:08.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24255" CreationDate="2014-08-19T16:18:43.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Rock 'N' Roll Cable Magic cable lube created specifically for non-coated cables.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rocklube.com/cable.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rocklube.com/cable.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without taking the cable all the way out of the housing, I'll shift to get as much slack as I can in the cable so I can get the housing out of the stops (my bike has slotted cable stops) and put in a few drops and move the housing back and forth to get the lube distributed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T16:18:43.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24262" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-19T17:29:10.730" Score="7" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend is looking for an electric bike for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is fairly broad - &lt;strong&gt;What features and capabilities should we consider when choosing an e-bike for commuting?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For information, we are living in Vancouver, BC and she will be commuting between West End (downtown) and SFU (Burnaby). She's 160cm high and weight 55kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13455" LastEditorUserId="13455" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T17:30:46.453" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T17:30:46.453" Title="What criteria should be considered for choosing an e-bike for commuting?" Tags="&lt;bike-selection&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-19T18:45:36.820" Score="0" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding on a cheap bike from Argos but I want to start doing it a bit more properly. Where I live, there are a fair few cycle paths, etc which aren't very flat. There's a lot of tree roots, pot holes etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as I'm a bit of a novice, I can't ride on the road properly. So I want to be able to hop onto and off curbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to compete in a 100 mile race next year. I have been looking at bikes, what do you guys think of this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/sirrus-2015-hybrid-bike-ec070673#select&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/sirrus-2015-hybrid-bike-ec070673#select&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this be a good bike to get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13458" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T18:45:36.820" Title="Want to start cycling, is this a good bike" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;&lt;advice&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-08-19T19:12:01.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24262" CreationDate="2014-08-19T19:02:08.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to give us an idea of the distance but my wife has recently bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://freegoelectricbikes.com/electric-bikes/FreeGoBike/freego-hawk/FreeGo-Hawk-Step-Through-Red-10Ah&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;freego hawk&lt;/a&gt; for a commute of 11km each way (about 2/3 your distance and flatter).  The specs and list price are not disimilar.  She's a little taller but this is a fairly forgiving frame layout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She gets 2 days round trips with the battery still showing 1/4 to 1/2 full, pedalling all the way, and it's knocked about 1/6 off her commute compared to a mountain bike with city tyres after doing that for some time, and is still less tired.  Note that in the UK the motor must by law cut out if you go &gt;15mph.  This extends the range at the expense of speed, as does the lower wattage motor generally used here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your girlfriend could ride it on a normal bike (MTB/city bike) in the same sort of time google says without practicing (~1.5hours), she might get under an hour on an e-bike assuming traffic lights etc don't take up too much of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If she'll be stuck behind other bikes or in traffic then it won't be much quicker than riding normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some questions for you to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why an e-bike? Speed compared to pedalling/beat the traffic/likes to ride but no shower available?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have somewhere secure to keep it at street level, with power?  You'll be charging every day or max. 2, and it's a lot heavier than a normal bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much is she planning to pedal? If not at all the range will soon be used up, especially with the climb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Who's going to look after it? Will she be stuck if it's in the shop for a minor service?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is she happy to ride in that traffic?  If she's got a bike, then try it on that, perhaps in one day, back the next if it's too far, or just check out the worst bits in rush hour.  The roads look very different outside a metal box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On balance e-bikes are great for commuting in many but not all situations, and can carry quite a lot of load without increasing the effort too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T19:02:08.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24144" CreationDate="2014-08-19T21:56:24.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's how surface corrosion (homogeneous corrosion) looks after growing beside a paint coat. I've seen several times that kind of corrosion in car panels (automotive engineer here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dunno what your frame material is, but you can try cleaning it with isopropil alcohol, and then cover the area with some type of grease. If the frame is too new I don't think the pitting has already covered the full thickness of the material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8818" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T21:56:24.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24277" CreationDate="2014-08-19T22:24:27.923" Score="2" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some time ago I gave a 29&quot; bike to a person for a ride. Someway he ruined the freewheel (it had a shimano freewheel) - the 2 smallest cogs were badly slipping. Now I put another freewheel (also shimano. it's second hand, but I tried it, and it was in perfect condition). I gave the bike to another person with the &quot;new&quot; freewheel, and by half a hour he ruined this freewheel - the smallest cog is badly slipping, and the second (i.e. #6) a little slipping too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is the question: does the wheel size affect so much, to crush the freewheel in half a hour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The bike was new. Just a few rides. The chain length is good - the derailleur is at right position. And yes, it is a freewheel, not cassette.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What caused me to think that freewheel ruined, is that I saw him using cog #7 at rear, and #1 at front. &#xA;As mentioned, on first freewheel 2 smallest cogs were slipping. Others are just perfect. Can it be because the chain is ruined as @hillson wrote?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="7999" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T20:57:54.963" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T11:48:44.383" Title="29&quot; freewheel ruined (slipping)" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24271" CreationDate="2014-08-19T22:30:19.227" Score="5" ViewCount="21930" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the typical symptoms of incorrectly adjusted B-screw in the rear derailleur? How does it manifest itself when shifting? Obviously, if the cage pulley interferes with the cog, the problem is clear. But what happens when there's no interference, just the gap is smaller or larger than optimal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, SRAM recommends 6mm gap between the upper pulley and the largest cog. How is it going to affect shifting performance if the gap is, say, 3mm? Or 8mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T19:48:45.033" Title="Misadjusted B-screw: symptoms?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;adjustment-screw&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24270" CreationDate="2014-08-19T22:46:18.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The B-screw controls the body angle of the derailleur. It pulls the pulleys away from the sprockets, so you don't rub against them. If you set it in the largest rear cog (as you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot;&gt;should&lt;/a&gt;), when you're adequately clear, you don't have rubbing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a somewhat insensitive adjustment once you clear the cogs, but the closer you are to the loosest screw value which works (i.e. the closest pulley to cog), the better your shifting will be. If you set it too close, note that a bicycle moves, so you need to allow some tolerance due to vibrations and what not. Set it too far and your shifting won't be as crisp as it should be: &quot;Since a derailer shift is caused by forcing the chain to run at an angle, the greater the angle, the sooner it will shift. The closer the jockey pulley is to the cluster, the sharper the angle will be for a given amount of sideways motion of the derailer. Thus, the looser the angle adjuster screw is, the better the shifting will be.&quot; (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T22:46:18.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T02:22:39.600" Score="2" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a Btwin Rockrider 5.0 which comes with SRAM MRX Twist Shifters (21 spd 3x7). But lately they have been giving me problems in shifting, I've had bad experience with twist shifters earlier also( Shimano Revo), thus I want to change the shifters to trigger shift. Can anyone suggest which one's are compatible with SRAM MRX (21 spd 3x7) shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13461" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T02:48:13.433" Title="Trigger Shift equivalent to SRAM MRX 21 speed on Btwin Rockrider 5.0" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24272" CreationDate="2014-08-20T02:31:45.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MRX twist shifters are 3x7 Shimano-compatible shifters, so you can use any 3x7 Shimano shifter set from the mountain-type group. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the only trigger shifters which are 3x7 Shimano compatible still made are from the Tourney line, such as the Shimano Tourney ST-EF40, which are of rather low quality. You may be able to find an old Shimano Acera or Alivio or Altus 3x7 shifter set if you look on Ebay or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a 3x7 drivetrain on my commuter, and ended up swapping the rear freewheel (yes, freewheel and not a cassette) with a 8 speed freewheel, and getting some Shimano Alivio 3x8 shifters which were easy enough to find and of good quality. I wasn't able to get the Tourney shifters to give good shifting performance, and I don't like twist shifters (for the 3x7 drive trains, I suspect SRAM's Shimano-compatible twist shifters are the best of the indexed shifters which are still on the market in terms of reliability; they're all cheap pieces of junk these days). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to use a friction shifter. Very cheap to buy, though you just have to get used to shifting into the right position by feel. This is what I'd likely have done if I didn't upgrade to 8 speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T02:48:13.433" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T02:48:13.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24248" CreationDate="2014-08-20T04:31:40.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1, Is the bead seated correctly. It's pretty common to get tyres blowing off the rim if they're not seated correctly. That said, this usually leads to an exploding tube rather than the tyre just coming off&#xA;2, As Daniel R Hicks said, are the rims so worn they're expanding?&#xA;3, Check the rim for dings and warping as Malarky sort of says, but not just the area for the bead. You may have a bent rim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are, though, that the tyres are done. The pictures would make me think they're on their last legs. I had a pair of 20+ year old ones recently that ended up in the bin as they just weren't reliable enough for me. Some things aren't worth saving a few euros/pounds/dollars over, and the contact points on a bike are some of those things for me. If the rims seem fine new tyres are where I'd go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T04:31:40.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24269" CreationDate="2014-08-20T04:49:55.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm betting that you need to install a brand new chain and a brand new freewheel / cassette, at the same time, and out of an abundance of caution, make sure they're the same brand. I doubt your friend actually ruined anything, the more likely scenario is that the chain is old and stretched, causing it to slip ( or it's the wrong length as Daniel mentioned ). This isn't all that unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T04:49:55.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24262" CreationDate="2014-08-20T04:52:43.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone who has done that &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; commute the better part of a decade (although on a non-powered bike) and limited experience with e-bikes (getting one for a family member) here are my thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By bike route you are looking at 20 km each way (40 km total), with a very large climb (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sfu.ca&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SFU Burnaby&lt;/a&gt; is on top of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burnaby_Mountain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Burnaby Mountain&lt;/a&gt;; 1200 ft elevation and the West End is at sea level). If you take a quieter route (e.g., the TransCanada trail - my preferred winter route), then you are looking at even longer distances and even more climbing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only surmise that you are looking at an e-bike to help with the volume of climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the nature of the route, battery performance (both total capacity and number of  charge cycles) will really be important as you will be pushing the battery range of most bikes. Depending on the capacity you may have to re-charge at SFU prior to heading back.  Either way you will be cycling the battery at least once a day. High-end batteries will be rated for around 500 charge cycles, so this means you will get at the very most 2 years out of a very good battery pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all e-bikes are however created equal in terms of battery performance. The battery is often &lt;em&gt;the most expensive&lt;/em&gt; component, and the easiest way for manufacturers to cut costs.  Some manufacturers may cheap out on capacity (meaning you might not make it to SFU). Others may have higher capacities, but opt for batteries that can sustain fewer total cycles before losing substantial capacity (meaning a very costly replacement). Other manufacturers may put in high quality batteries in that have both capacity and can sustain a high number of charge cycles.   You will need to do your research here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you may also want to consider mixed-mode transport (e.g., bus or skytrain) with a regular bike or even a folding bike so you do not have to worry about finding rack space on the bus or skytrain as another alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T04:59:57.417" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T04:59:57.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24282" CreationDate="2014-08-20T06:13:01.900" Score="4" ViewCount="6484" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to adjust the Look Keo pedals (mine are standard edition) so as to provide good grip, but with minimal wear on the cleats themselves? I use RED Keos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T07:54:26.207" Title="How to properly adjust Look Keo pedals" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24255" CreationDate="2014-08-20T08:42:22.743" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated, modern teflon line outer cables do not require lubrication.&#xA;These cables are often designated as being &lt;strong&gt;2P-class cables&lt;/strong&gt;. 1P cables lack the liner. Not all cables carry such an indication, visual inspection will quickly show if a liner is present. A teflon liner is a thin, plastic layer inside the outer cable, often white or light blue.&#xA;If you have older, or cheaper cables, without such a liner, lubrication is required. Teflon lined cables with inner cables that have corroded and are stuck should be replaced, due to damage to the inner cable and/or liner. In an emergency however, lubrication can help to unstick these cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;strong&gt;WD-40 is NOT a lubricant&lt;/strong&gt; and should never be used for any type of serious lubrication. It does more harm than good. See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/6226/when-should-i-not-use-wd-40&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; related question. Buy a specific cable lubricant, which is designed for penetrating through the whole cable. If this is not available, any other light oil or grease will do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cable lubrication is much easier using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41FdGwlUFdL._SY300_.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;specific cable lubricator&lt;/a&gt;. Mount the lubricator with the large hole over the outer cable, the small hole over the inner cable. Tighten the screws (gently!), insert the lubrication spray can straw and insert small quantities of lubricant until it flows out the other end. In general, you would want to lubricate from top to bottom, in order to have gravity help distribute the lube. Not for the brake cables however, be very careful not to get any lubricant on your brake pads/disc/wheel rim or any other friction part. For brakes, always lubricate Bottom-Top, or completely detach the cable from the brake before lubricating.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13467" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:22:17.377" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T08:42:22.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10683" CreationDate="2014-08-20T08:50:39.280" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the helmets in the picture &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; aero helmets, just different styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Helmet needs in sprint competitions are different than for individual timed events as the rider is more likely to turn their head around to assess the race situation as well as be in various positions on the bike (e.g. out of the saddle while accelerating) which means the interaction of the helmet and body for air flow is more variable and needs to be a compromise for this more variable situation. For this reason a more uniform spherical like shape has become common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, depending on the rider, some helmets are a better aero choice than others. It is individual and no single helmet is universally the best aerodynamically. I regularly test helmet aerodynamics for riders and am constantly surprised by the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hoy quite possibly doesn't turn his head as much as he has tended to race like a human &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Derny&quot;&gt;derny&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For national level track riders, don't assume all have tested these things. That level of attention to detail isn't as common as some are led to believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For road professionals keep in mind they mostly ride sponsor's equipment whether or not it is aerodynamically superior or inferior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T08:23:12.830" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T08:23:12.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24279" CreationDate="2014-08-20T09:50:42.750" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're never walking on the cleats and can track-stand at junctions and traffic lights they should almost never wear out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is minimal wear clipping in and out. The reds are 9 degrees of float before unclipping which may increase the wear though. I use the black cleats (0 degrees) and I wear out the bottom of the cleats through walking and stopping/starting long before I wear them out from riding. In fact, I'm on only on my second pair in 4 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T09:50:42.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T10:41:37.720" Score="1" ViewCount="8540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to change the front derailleur gear cable on my bike. I've removed the cable from the derailleur itself, and now need to detach it from the shifter on the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my previous bike, which also had Shimano parts (I think Tourney), when I had to do this I just unscrewed two screws on the top side of the shifter, the cover easily came off, and I could then access the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On these Acera shifters, there are also two screws at the top, but after unscrewing them the cover won't pull off. I've tried this on both shifters with the same result. It seems I need to unscrew or do something else, but I'm not exactly sure what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than try to yank off the cover and end up damaging something, I thought I'd ask here if anyone knows how to correctly remove the covers on these shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13468" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T11:11:53.777" Title="Shimano Acera Shifters - How to remove gear cable" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24283" CreationDate="2014-08-20T11:11:53.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the outside of the shifter (where the levers are) there should be a single screw. Put the deraileur in the first gear (the gear with the least tension) and remove the screw. Then simply push the cable out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T11:11:53.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T13:05:26.633" Score="1" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for online suppliers of carbon road framesets, the major online retailers &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cycle/frames/carbon-frame-material/?s=frameset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wiggle&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/search?fh_eds%5B%5D=%C3%9F&amp;amp;fh_location%5B%5D=%2F%2Fproducts%2Fen_GB%2Favailable_in%3E%7Bgb%7D%2F%24s%3Dframeset%2Fframe_material%3E%7Bcarbon%7D&amp;amp;fh_reffacet%5B%5D=frame_material&amp;amp;fh_refpath%5B%5D=facet_16&amp;amp;fh_refview%5B%5D=search&amp;amp;fh_view_size%5B%5D=21&amp;amp;query=frameset&amp;amp;x=0&amp;amp;y=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Evanscycles&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/s?q=frameset&amp;amp;f=4294966775&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chainreactioncycles&lt;/a&gt; don't seem to have much choice available (~&amp;lt;10 each) with low diversity in brands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other (reputable) suppliers are present in the online market that have a large range of products to chose from? Or do framesets tend to be bought directly from the manufacturer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because most brands are missing entirely and some (e.g. Specialized) only have one or two of their frames available through these sites, yet they don't sell them directly, therefore I think I'm not looking in the right places. (I am based in Sweden if you want to limit it to Europe/European delivery)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastEditorUserId="5434" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T14:11:54.130" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T14:55:25.080" Title="Where to buy (carbon) framesets?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-08-20T16:26:24.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24285" CreationDate="2014-08-20T14:55:25.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your comment, I think I may have misunderstood your original question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bike shops I know seem to be &quot;licensed resellers&quot; for just a couple of brands. My local shop, for example, stocks only Bianchi and Specialized. If I want to buy a Trek I need to go someplace else. A lot of web sites in the cycling business (certainly in the UK) are basically virtual fronts for bricks-and-mortar shops, so it doesn't really surprise me that when you go to a particular web site, you don't see a broad range of brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, if you are looking for a branded frame, your best approach might be to go in the other direction. Find the frame that you like, then find a dealer (either locally or through a web site). You might need a dealer's help in any case if you're looking just for a frame rather than a complete bike. But e.g. Bianchi offer frames on their site, so presumably someone, somewhere will sell you one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my comment I mentioned a couple of bike shops who (I think) have brought in generic carbon frames and built and branded them. That route may also be an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T14:55:25.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T17:32:26.180" Score="3" ViewCount="5309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced a chain (SRAM PC 830) and 7 speed freewheel (Shimano MF-HG37) on the back of my daily commuter bike about 300 miles/ 3 weeks ago with the same models.  The old parts lasted me 4000 miles, and until recently, the new ones have been fine.  Now I'm having issues of my chain not staying in &quot;6&quot; gear and jumping to 7 (the smallest).  I can shift to and from it ok, just that it will jump in a few revs.  All the other gears work fine.  If I move the shifter a little bit it will go back, but within a few revs jumps right back down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have played with the high and low set screws since I'm also swapping wheels frequently too.  I had a axle break, switched to a backup wheel, went back to the repaired wheel, and then back to the backup now.  Through all that everything worked fine until the last swap.  The backup wheel is a identical replacement with the freewheel and tire transplanted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to adjust the barrel nut along with the &quot;b&quot; screw.  Both had no effects, but I didn't move them very far.  I haven't found the time to try to clean the derailleur yet, but when I swapped the chain I gave the bike a good cleaning, wax, and lube bath.   I'm worried that I missed something in the derailleur or it just got dirty since.  Jockey wheels are clean and secure, but have 5k miles on them.  Front derailleur selections also had no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The derailleur model is a Shimano Tourney found a 2008(ish) Schwinn High Timber with the gripshifters.  Laid down 3k miles ago where the derailleur was scratched and banged up the limit screws but no effect on performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T14:00:18.657" Title="Rear index shifting not staying in middle gears" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24288" CreationDate="2014-08-20T19:26:46.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something to keep in mind, it's not unusual for a SRAM chain to not play well with a Shimano cassette. A lot of times you'll get lucky and the two will work well together, I used to run SRAM chains with my Shimano cassettes all the time without much trouble. But there are just some combinations that just cause problems, even intermittently from run to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you said you gave it a lube bath, I wonder if you managed to displace the grease inside of the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my rear derailleur just won't cooperate, I use my two favorite articles to troubleshoot and properly lubricate and adjust it. Study these thoroughly and meticulously and you'll likely happen upon your solution: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T19:26:46.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24288" CreationDate="2014-08-20T20:11:28.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The high and low limit screws don't affect the shifting between the cogs - they just tell the derailleur not to throw the chain into the spokes or out into the frame. Theoretically, this is a set once and forget it adjustment. The B screw will keep the derailleur from rubbing on the cogs and should be set on the largest rear cog. If you put in the same freewheel as before though, it also shouldn't change. The indexing adjustment might need a bit of fiddling ( the barrel adjuster ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order of things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bend the derailleur&lt;/a&gt; (cage/hanger)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;size the chain&lt;/a&gt; wrong?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the tension/friction in the shift cable too low or too high? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all those have the answer of &quot;No&quot;, you have to fiddle with adjustments (the indexing in particular). Unfortunately, Tourney grade parts are infamous for not really staying in adjustment or being properly adjustable since they're so damn cheaply made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt; have good resources. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T10:42:18.590" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T10:42:18.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-21T05:58:11.907" Score="7" ViewCount="10892" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front wheel on my bike is quick-release, and I often remove it when locking up my bike. Then when I go to put it back on, sometimes it is a bit difficult to make sure that the wheel is centered properly. I.e., the brake pads are not equally distant from the wheel rim, so sometimes one side of the brakes is a bit too close to the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to have to spend a spend a ton of time placing the quick-release wheel back on the frame. That defeats the purpose of quick-release, if it is slow-replace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some techniques for &lt;em&gt;quickly&lt;/em&gt; but &lt;em&gt;safely&lt;/em&gt; replacing the quick-release wheel with v-brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11331" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T21:07:32.663" Title="What's the best way to quickly align front quick release wheel?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;front&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24295" CreationDate="2014-08-21T08:03:32.483" Score="39" ViewCount="23741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to move two bicycles from work to home. The route is 5 miles long and car free. My only means of transport is to ride one of the bicycles so my question is this: What is the safest way to get both bikes from work to home in one journey? (without some kind of trailer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bikes are a Carrera Virtuoso and a Scott Yecora (dropped handlebars)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11200" LastEditorUserId="11200" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T08:12:38.523" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T04:22:26.863" Title="How to move a bicycle by bicycle" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;advice&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24292" CreationDate="2014-08-21T08:36:23.997" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possible way is to ride one bike and push the other. One hand goes to handlebars and front brake, the other grips the second bike by the handlebar stem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is slow and clumsy, of course, but if you are able to ride the said route with no hands, you should be able to move both bikes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T08:36:23.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24292" CreationDate="2014-08-21T08:43:31.093" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are reasonably firm at riding one-handed, you can drive them home by riding one of them while pushing/pulling the other one beside you with one hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that the bike you will ride is called &lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; and the one you push/pull is &lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First decide, which bike is better to be ridden and therefore will be your bike &lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; and which hand is better to get freed to steer bike &lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt;. Which hand is better will depend on if you will need to change gears and how your brakes are arranged on the handle bars. Then lean bike &lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt; somewhere, e.g. to a tree or wall – putting it on its stand is not so good as it might get complicated to get the stand folded in later. Also make sure to lean it on with the correct side, depending on your choice of which hand you want to use to steer it. Finally mount bike &lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; and place yourself on the bike beside &lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now grab either the stem or the center of the handlebar (where it is held by the stem) of bike &lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt;, such that you have some steering control over the handlebar if you twist your wrist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most complicated part in this is starting as you will have some wobbly moments on the start and you have to take care not to interfere with the handlebars of both bikes. Having drop bars (as in your case) will make things a bit easier in terms of interference as they are not that wide and it is easier to keep both bikes separated. Also you have to take care to not lean onto the wrong bike, as putting your weight on bike &lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt; will make it go somewhere more or less unpredictable and you're quite likely to crash. So only put your weight onto bike &lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt;'s handle bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the whole train running, this arrangement is quite fine (albeit a bit clumsy) as long as you don't have to cope with too much traffic (which is given in your case). However, 5 miles is some piece to ride this way so expect to be somewhat slower than normal and plan to do some pauses on your way as you won't have a very relaxed riding position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T10:50:10.313" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T10:50:10.313" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24292" CreationDate="2014-08-21T10:09:49.280" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Walk :) Safest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this from time to time (usually when one of the kids have 'forgotten' their bike), and find it easiest to do as pr above, but with a little variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the transported bike is lightweight and otherwise allows it, simply 'wear' it as a backpack, putting your arm through the big triangle. Once it's on, you can determine if it will Work.&#xA;Did this once with a racing bike at 7,5Kg. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As the other answers, except I grab the center of the handlebar with palm forward, and then &lt;strong&gt;lift&lt;/strong&gt; the front Wheel of the bike. &#xA;This allows me to sit on my own bike more comfortably, and balance is way better since the transported bike doesn't try to steer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13480" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T10:09:49.280" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24292" CreationDate="2014-08-21T12:00:10.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd walk with both bikes - with each hand on their seats, one to the left and other to your right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles can be easily pushed and steered when holding them at the seat (in the same manner as you would correct steering when riding without hands, through the balance). I find it easier than pulling them by the middle of handlebars as others suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing so with two bikes at once is tricky, and this is slower than riding; but it's safer and  you'd get there in the end with no risk of falling yourself; at worst you'd have to stop and readjust them a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10485" LastEditorUserId="10485" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T12:48:33.487" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T12:48:33.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24292" CreationDate="2014-08-21T13:03:57.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend was able to ride a few miles with a second bike attached to his backpack with a ropes. You need a wide road for this way of transportation and it can be tricky to tie bike in such a way that it doesn't weights to one side. Also, you can detach wheels and tie them to the frame, so bike will be more compact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13486" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T13:03:57.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24269" CreationDate="2014-08-21T14:22:49.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, this is a new bike with 7-speed freewheel instead of freehub and cassette? Freewheels and anything 7-speed have been obsolete for about 25 years, certainly far before 29&quot; bikes appeared. If you have a new bike with such components, it is likely to be extreme low end quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the new freewheel, it is also possible that the chain is already worn out or out of spec even as new. It is a good practice to always replace the chain when replacing worn cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T14:22:49.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19016" CreationDate="2014-08-21T14:50:01.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a product called “Pedal Sock.” It will help to prevent / reduce the damages that your bicycle pedals can cause, when transporting or storing you bike. I have even seen people use then when riding their bikes.  The material that it is made of is flexible with some shock absorbing properties. They seem simply to use and can withstand a good deal of punishment; which make them durable. For the purpose they serve and there durability, they are not expensive. I first found them surfing the internet (pedalsock.com), since then I have seen them in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13488" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T14:50:01.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24292" CreationDate="2014-08-21T14:54:49.553" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one bike has a rear rack, you can attach the second bike's front wheel with a bunch of bungies and tow it.  I've done this, and it worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have a cargo bike, and the towing is simpler:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VjVQ0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Xtracycle tow truck&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T14:54:49.553" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-21T16:34:54.900" Score="0" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the Cervelo S5 series there are two different models but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/bikes/s-series/s5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cervelo page&lt;/a&gt; offers no mention of what differences are.. could someone enlighten me? Looking just at the framesets is there a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T17:16:19.207" Title="What differs between the Cervelo S5 and S5VWD" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24306" CreationDate="2014-08-21T17:01:37.033" Score="3" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have  an old norco manik frame from 2006 and I need help picking bottom bracket and chainset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking at Truvativ Hussefelt 1.1 DH Chainset at crc but how do I make sure the bottom bracket and chainset fit? The original bike spec just lists Truvativ Hussefelt as chainset, no specific bb is being mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aiming at using this mtb as my winter bike not looking for exclusive parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13489" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T21:53:54.860" Title="Picking bottom bracket and chain set for older mtb frame" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24301" CreationDate="2014-08-21T17:16:19.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are different frames, with the VWD being lighter than the normal one. It is claimed that other properties (stiffness, comfort, shape) are the same, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=108742&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt;, in particular the post by em3, point to the following links from Cervelo: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.cervelo.com/forums/p/8604/59656.aspx#59656&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.cervelo.com/forums/t/8315.aspx?PageIndex=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;b&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T17:16:19.207" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19016" CreationDate="2014-08-21T17:53:18.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can mail order good ol' fashioned rubber pedals:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0012TIUTG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012TIUTG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1535523722&amp;amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;amp;pf_rd_i=B000V2RQ7W&amp;amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=1SQX7R97MRKKDCE8Z77B&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Since they're Pyramid brand, American bike stores probably can order them too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T17:53:18.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24292" CreationDate="2014-08-21T17:55:52.480" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ghostride it, so long as you're not dealing with high speeds or heavy traffic:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Ghostride-a-Bike/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Ghostride-a-Bike/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And make sure you have a soundtrack:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/xLvlGVNInw4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="5702" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T15:06:16.817" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T15:06:16.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24302" CreationDate="2014-08-21T18:24:22.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few of ways to find out what will fit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Research websites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2006&amp;amp;brand=Norco&amp;amp;model=Manik&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bikepedia&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.norco.com/archives/2006/bike_enlarged.php?lang=en&amp;amp;loc=fs&amp;amp;sloc=fr&amp;amp;tabloc=1&amp;amp;id=manik&amp;amp;col=blue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Norco.com&lt;/a&gt; and check the original spec. You've possibly done this already and found it's of little help.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pull the cranks off and remove the BB length and diameter will be printed on it. You're looking to take it off anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove everything and measure, this will be most complicated and a last resort.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're your three options, but with a bit of googling to confirm it's easy to find &lt;a href=&quot;http://pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=122664&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;threads&lt;/a&gt; dealing with this. Essentially most North American mtbs of this age run a 68/73mm English threaded BB and a 47.5 or 50mm chain line. 2.5mm won't be a significant difference however. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are replacing crank and BB you only need to match what you buy, so if you get a square taper BB you need a square taper crank and so forth. The crank determines spindle length, not the frame. Shimano Hollowtech II cranks come with an external BB so always an easy option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T18:32:24.017" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T18:32:24.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24302" CreationDate="2014-08-21T21:53:54.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different BB sizes and offsets can make this an expensive exercise (speaking from experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one I would use the LBS - pay someone with experience to do it, or utilise their shelf full of different sized BB's - buy one with a &quot;right to return&quot; if its not the right size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally take the bike in, they will probably give you the correct one first time. BB's a cheap enough the savings going internet/discount supplier are probably not worth the time and effort for the risk of getting the wrong size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T21:53:54.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24309" CreationDate="2014-08-21T22:08:00.173" Score="19" ViewCount="1950" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some context: I live near a very congested main road, and everyone goes through the villages whenever it is blocked. If I am cycling, I have a continuous stream of cars passing me, even if they can't see the road ahead. So to prevent them overtaking (more for their safety than mine) I pull out more towards the centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen that &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/6646&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; says that it is okay to take the full lane when&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the lane isn't wide enough for a car to pass safely (to discourage dangerously close passing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my situation isn't about close passing, it is about passing that is dangerous to others, and consequently could be dangerous to be me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be &quot;taking the lane&quot; to stop people doing this, or is this not the right way to deal with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for reference, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/Honey+Hill,+Fen+Drayton,+Cambridge,+UK/Bethel+Baptist+Church/@52.2934309,-0.0180744,15z/data=!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x4877df3cda479cb1:0x85b0ddeea4dc1f1c!2m2!1d-0.0352627!2d52.2943144!1m5!1m1!1s0x0:0xf452253097c03f98!2m2!1d-0.00187!2d52.292561!3e1?hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this is the road I am riding&lt;/a&gt; along, the worst point is half way, there is a sharp left then right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T00:58:54.043" Title="Is it acceptable to cycle towards the centre of the lane on blind corners?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24308" CreationDate="2014-08-21T23:03:53.597" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should absolutely be taking the lane, provided the car behind you will have time to slow down when you move to take the lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Passing too close, passing on a blind corner, passing that endangers others and yourself, these are all equally dangerous. This sounds like a dangerous situation all around, I highly recommend you record your ride so if someone does hit you, you can make quick work of the insurance claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T23:03:53.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24292" CreationDate="2014-08-22T01:00:15.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I enjoy running as much as riding. If I could not carry the second bike I would ride one home, run back, ride the other home. It would take a bit longer and be a great workout....... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presuming 2 bikes @10km/h that is about 45-50 minutes (without prangs), or 30km/h  (2*16minute) on bikes + 5 minute/km (40 minute) run - 1:15. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T01:00:15.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24308" CreationDate="2014-08-22T04:52:48.387" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's exactly the right way to deal with it. If people passing you is dangerous for anyone, then you need to make it extremely inconvenient, and even illegal, for them to do so. Once you're beyond the complex road that makes it necessary for you to take the lane, be a good fellow and get to the side of the road and let them by. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only very rarely encountered hostile reactions from drivers when I take a lane. The vast majority realize why you're doing it and actually appreciate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Oh, look! A predictable cyclist obeying the rules of the road! What do you make of that, dear?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I don't know, never saw such a thing.  But at least I know what he's going to do next.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T04:52:48.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24308" CreationDate="2014-08-22T07:28:00.323" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say &lt;strong&gt;yes, definitely take the lane&lt;/strong&gt;. Proactive disarming of a hazardous situation is (almost) always the best way to go and taking the lane is often an effective tool. In your situation described above, if a motorists attempts to pass you and then a car comes the other way the first thing they will do is swerve back on to the correct side or slam the brakes. They won't think of/remember you in this moment and you are unlikely to be able to do anything about it, it is for your own safety too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this on the road all the time and &lt;strong&gt;acknowledge the driver when I do let them pass after the hazard&lt;/strong&gt;, I find a quick friendly wave or thumbs up generally washes away any frustration they may have accumulated in adding two or three seconds to their drive. Unfortunately though some motorists will take exception to a rider defending their position on the road and you should always be prepared for that.** &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found it useful in the Alps when I went, people often try to overtake on the hairpins and bends along the cliff-face, another example of a blind/difficult corners, so I ended up taking the lane in that situation too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** &lt;em&gt;In the event of feeling aggrieved the motorist will likely shout some nonsensical abuse, flip the bird, or even use their car to swipe at you. The best approach is to just let them get on with it, slow down if you think they are likely to hit/swerve at you. A GoPro or similar is a good way to provide evidence to police if you want to report someone for dangerous driving.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastEditorUserId="5434" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T09:00:43.437" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T09:00:43.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24291" CreationDate="2014-08-22T10:55:05.733" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I worry about mainly is the horizontal alignment of the wheels and brakes (V brakes or disks). In my experience just pressing fork down on the wheels will then &quot;auto fit&quot; which creates an horizontally accurate alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I press from the handlebars vertically to the ground and the wheel keeps an horizontal alignment with the brakes (accurately set). The operation to press and lock the wheel takes 10 seconds, no more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13498" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T12:20:47.677" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T12:20:47.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2014-08-22T12:20:36.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Urbana/Champaign/(Parts of) Savoy, Illinois, USA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cumtd.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Champaign-Urbana Mass Transit District&lt;/a&gt; has almost all buses which can take 2 bikes in the front. The rules are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cumtd.com/gogreen/bicycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T12:20:36.770" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-08-22T12:20:36.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24318" CreationDate="2014-08-22T13:56:08.803" Score="4" ViewCount="26548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've put a new chain on my bike using method 3 from Zinn's art of road bike maintenance to determine length:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Wrap the chain around the big chainring and biggest cog without going&#xA;  through either dérailleur. Bring the two ends together until the ends&#xA;  overlap; one full link (Fig. 4.7) should be the amount of overlap&#xA;  (Fig. 4.10)...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I didn't notice that my fingers must have slipped at some point because I remeasured the size after breaking the surplus pieces off &amp;amp; the overlap was gone (facepalmed myself with a greasy hand at this point). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How big of an issue is this likely to be? What are the problems associated with an overshortened chain? Realistically, should I be running down to the bike shop and buying a second chain in as many days (whilst trying to pretend I hadn't)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rarely (if ever, I dislike cross-chaining) end up on both the big cogs and chainring at the same time therefore the chain &amp;amp; rear dérailleur would rarely be under maximum possible tension. I'm aware it's &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14669/10-speed-chain-too-short-can-i-add-links&quot;&gt;not a good idea to re-add links&lt;/a&gt; and given I'm about to head to the Alps I don't want a weak chain! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T14:49:36.293" Title="Risks/problems of a short chain" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24308" CreationDate="2014-08-22T14:00:26.933" Score="-7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. If you do this you run the risk of you being &quot;just around the corner&quot; when a motorist enters the corner behind you and being in his path without giving him sufficient reaction time to your presence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not your job to babysit other road users by using aggressive road behaviour. If it was I'd pull my car over to the fast hand lane of the motorway and set the cruise control to 70mph. (UK reference to speed limit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highway code in the UK does not specifically deal with this issue but it does say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;never ride more than two abreast, and ride in single file on narrow or&#xA;  busy roads and when riding round bends&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which to me infers that going around a corner you should present a smaller footprint, not a larger one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13506" LastEditorUserId="13506" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T14:22:30.460" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T14:22:30.460" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24316" CreationDate="2014-08-22T14:07:09.307" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;If the chain is too short, it will be at risk for jamming and possibly ruining the rear derailer if you accidentally shift into the large-large combination. Never run with a chain that is too short, except in an emergency.&quot; (I will say that depending on if your chain is short enough, it can happen in combos other than large-large.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a good article on sizing chains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its a new chain, I wouldn't hesitate in breaking the chain at a different link and adding some of the extra links back to it. But you really should get the chain to be of the right length before riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for what its worth, the easiest way to size a new chain for a bike which hasn't had a cassette/chainring size change occur is to start with the old (properly sized) chain, and use that to size out the new chain. Much less annoying than sizing the chain from scratch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T14:07:09.307" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16128" CreationDate="2014-08-22T15:25:35.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen this issue in the past and the culprit was the axle (not the skewer) in the hub had snapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, the bike was still rideable to a certain extent, as the QR skewer was holding the two broken sections of axle in place. Note that even when the wheel was removed from the frame, it still wasn't immediately obvious that the axle had snapped, until the skewer was removed from the hub. However the whole wheel was replaced ASAP for safety reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the age of the wheel (15-20 years), it was more economically viable to replace the wheel than to rebuild the old wheel with a new hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13507" LastEditorUserId="13507" LastEditDate="2014-08-23T18:57:40.320" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T18:57:40.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2014-08-22T15:49:07.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New York City&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may bring your bike on the subway at all times (though it's quite rude to do it at rush hour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may bring your train on the commuter railroads during off-peak times.  However, Metro-North and the Long Island Railroad (LIRR) each require a bicycle permit which costs $5 and has lifetime validity (for the life of the paper it's printed on, seemingly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no bike racks on any buses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.mta.info/bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://web.mta.info/bike/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="5702" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T21:44:26.580" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T21:44:26.580" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-08-22T15:49:07.300" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24144" CreationDate="2014-08-22T21:20:24.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, it looks like a rust preventative such as Weigles Frame Saver. It shouldn't hurt anything, but if you're set on removing it you might try a rag and some nail polish remover, acetone, xylene, toluene, or mineral spirits. Take care that the solvent you choose doesn't dissolve the powder coat/paint on the fork! Two additional suggestions: (1) Make sure there isn't any dirt or grit that might damage the finish of the fork when you rub it off. (2) Don't apply so much solvent that it gets into the holes, as I'm pretty sure you want to keep the rust preventative there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13512" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T21:20:24.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24291" CreationDate="2014-08-23T01:04:37.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others mentioned, do not try to manually align your wheel to the brakes (rather, adjust the breaks). Also, you might want to make sure that your wheel is dished properly (the rim is centered about the hub correctly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want some extra &quot;push&quot; of the axle into the dropouts of the fork, I like to do the following: When you go to put your front wheel back on, stand at the front of your bike, facing the handlebars, with legs straddling the wheel. Bend over the handlebars with your chest pushing down on them and then tighten/clamp your quick-release. I've been doing this for many years (both to lock the bike and for transport), and it's worked wonders!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13514" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T01:04:37.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24015" CreationDate="2014-08-23T18:25:05.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going with the comment from linac&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like a plastic protection sticker, just there to prevent little stones from damaging the carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T18:25:05.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24292" CreationDate="2014-08-23T19:02:10.620" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ride one bike, and have a friend ride the other bike. Once home, give friend a beer and say &quot;thank you, see you tomorrow.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13519" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T16:35:17.783" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T16:35:17.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24329" CreationDate="2014-08-23T19:49:20.143" Score="2" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assembling my rear wheel and I have question related the lengths of spokes. Is there a big difference between the length of spokes taken from right and left sides. Can I get into big problems if I didn't separate the long and short spokes ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T20:33:49.227" Title="Bike rear wheel assembly" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24328" CreationDate="2014-08-23T20:12:37.610" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The shorter spokes go on the drive side. Satisfy yourself by looking at the picture below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lDt57.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine two right-angled triangles sharing a common side (the red-dashed line). The hypotenuse of the left triangle (non-drive side) is longer than the hypotenuse of the right triangle (drive side). Generally only by a couple of mm, but it makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failure to observe this will mean in the first place that you might not be able to attach all the spokes to the rim. Even if you manage this, you'll likely not get the wheel in dish. Assuming that you asked the question because you've actually done this, my advice is to undo it and to start building the wheel again. On the plus side it is likely you won't make this mistake again ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-08-23T20:33:49.227" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T20:33:49.227" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15804" CreationDate="2014-08-23T22:01:25.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have already explained, cutting through one 10 mm bit of metal is definitely easier than cutting through an 18 mm one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to that point &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/ProductInformation.aspx?PNumber=997986&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the U-lock you use as a comparison&lt;/a&gt; would also require cuts on both sides &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/LIdNSBGIboc?t=3m12s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;as this video explains&lt;/a&gt;. This is basically because the locking mechanism locks both sides, and as you would need a massive tool to bend those 18 mm of steel you would really need to cut 18 mm × 2. And that makes it a much safer option than the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I just bought one of these u-locks so if I'm wrong please let me know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8643" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T22:01:25.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24354" CreationDate="2014-08-24T11:15:01.713" Score="9" ViewCount="8835" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HIebY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HIebY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a Titanium bike frame on eBay. It's very cheap and the owner says that it has a very small crack on the seat tube where it connects to a bottom bracket. See in the image above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never gone for titanium frames. How bad is this damage, and what is likely to happen in the future - will it get worse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-08-26T11:00:13.173" LastActivityDate="2017-08-27T13:40:22.530" Title="Titanium frame has a crack - advice needed" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;titanium&gt;&lt;crack&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2014-08-24T16:04:31.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem commuting - by walking, running or biking - to work was solved when I purchased a &quot;Go-Pack&quot; by Millenium Outfitters.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In it there's a folding garment bag where I can pack 2 suits or up to 3 pairs of pants and dress shirts and they arrive relatively wrinkle-free. On the outside there are 2 pockets for accessories where I can also pack shoes and my lunch, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used it for about 2 years and it shows little sign of wear and tear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13524" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T16:04:31.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24338" CreationDate="2014-08-24T16:26:41.357" Score="6" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I oil my bike chain, I oil the inside and the outside like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;     1. Oil here ▼&#xA;  ___________________&#xA; /                   \ &#xA; | 2. And oil here ▼ |&#xA; \___________________/&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IuSbi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycle on 1/4 of the length of chain, and repeat 3 times, so that the top and bottom all the way around has had it applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this overkill? Do I need to oil both sides of the chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13492" LastEditorUserId="13492" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T18:17:25.603" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T20:43:33.867" Title="Is it best to put oil on the inner or outer of the chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24335" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-08-24T17:05:21.930" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T17:05:21.930" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T17:05:21.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24336" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-08-24T17:05:21.930" Score="0" Body="Questions about hand-powered bicycles, tricycles, etc. " OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T22:09:30.600" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T22:09:30.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24334" CreationDate="2014-08-24T17:53:22.487" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think about it, the purpose of oiling is to lubricate where you have metal moving against metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the diagram below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/te3UE.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you need to oil the pin/roller area. There's no point oiling the face plates (which I think is what you're saying?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you oil, know how many links are in the chain (or mark your start link), and go around the whole chain once, oiling each roller. That's all you need to do. No need to do quarter turns or repeat three times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when you've done, wipe off the excess oil with something dry. A bit of rag or kitchen towel will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T20:43:33.867" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T20:43:33.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24341" CreationDate="2014-08-24T21:46:12.003" Score="6" ViewCount="21483" Body="&lt;p&gt;While breaking the chain, I pushed the pin too far and pushed it out completely. Now the chain is too short. How do I re-insert this pin, or should I look for other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13433" LastActivityDate="2017-06-14T17:12:15.740" Title="How do I re-insert a chain pin that has been pushed completely out?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24316" CreationDate="2014-08-24T21:53:38.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had just this problem to the extent where when the chain was over the large cogs, front and rear, the derailleur was excessively stretched. The changes operated OK, but noticed that the changes weren't smooth when on the larger front cog. Changes on the rear derailleur operated with a bit of clicking and hesitation not dissimilar to an indexing problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added four links from a spare chain to lengthen it, and the changes become smooth again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although technically chain tension should not affect gear changes, it does when the derailleur is excessively stretched. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13433" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T21:53:38.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24339" CreationDate="2014-08-24T21:57:50.607" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of chain - Shimano have chain connector pins for exactly this task for many of their chains. Note the pin must exactly match the chain.  If you have a length of the same chain (I always keep the left overs when I put ion a new chain) break the chain again and remake the chain with the leftovers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have (in desperation - bike shops 100km away, no spare chain parts), used a vice and pointy grips to do press the pin in - the repair was dodgy but got us on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, use a quick link or a new chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T22:38:43.967" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T22:38:43.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10326" CreationDate="2014-08-24T22:21:03.370" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add some info on the physics side of the equation (and there is definitely psychology at play as well, as motivation plays a part in how hard you can ride).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of references regarding how much the air resistance is reduced by following close behind a rider, plus anyone with a power meter will likely have seen similar data for themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount the air drag is reduced does vary of course depending on a range of factors, but a typical reduction of ~30% when following close behind the rider in front is about right. It can of course be more or less than that. This reduction applies on climbs, flats and descents, but of course &lt;em&gt;only applies to the proportion of power demand used to overcome air resistance&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So looking at the relative energy demand from the various resistance forces, I did this sample chart to show how that changes with gradient, for a rider + bike of 75kg and a steady power output of 300W and no wind (using the equations as described in the paper by Martin et al, &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/Media/docs/Reprint-Validation-of-a-mathematical-model-for-road-cycling-3fdc49a0-3681-44ac-8b9c-5ff6e6959cff-0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Validation of a mathematical model for road cycling power&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hdgmE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the exact values for any individual will vary depending on their mass, aerodynamics, rolling resistance factors and so on. This is just to explain the principles involved - IOW the overall shape and trends shown will be the same for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what we can see, e.g., is for such a rider on a 1% slope, a little over 60% of their energy output is used for overcoming air drag (300W x 61% = 183W), while on a 6% slope, that proportion of energy output drops to only ~10% (30W) as much more of their power is used to overcome the force of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the wattage &quot;saving&quot; by drafting closely behind another rider at those speeds, would be approximately 30% of the power used to overcome air resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the 1% gradient, that's ~30% x 183W = 50-60W, while on the 6% slope, that saving drops to 3-4W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now of course the fitter or more powerful the riders are, the faster they travel up hills at any given gradient, and so those relative wattage &quot;savings&quot; at each gradient from drafting behind another rider will increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, if a rider with same weight etc was doing 400W on the 6% slope, the speed increases and the proportion of power used to overcome air resistance also goes up to 15-16% of total demand, in this case 62W, and ~30% of that = 15-20W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 15-20W saving when you are at your limit is substantial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an 8% grade this more powerful rider can attain a ~10W saving by drafting, and on a 10% slope they can still achieve a 5-7W saving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even 5-10W can be the difference between hanging on or cracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-08-25T01:12:12.283" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T01:12:12.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24339" CreationDate="2014-08-25T11:45:46.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always carry the cutoff from a new chain (or a few links of it) in my kit.  Take the chain apart at the next link down from where you lost the pin (being more careful this time) and then take two half-links from the cutoff and install them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, while you have that cutoff piece handy, do a trial to see how many turns of the crank it it is to take the pin &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; all the way out, write down than number, and store it with the tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just use quick links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T11:45:46.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24347" CreationDate="2014-08-25T13:27:40.840" Score="3" ViewCount="1644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Trek T-900 tandem that my wife and I ride quite a bit.  It's got an 8-speed rear setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a standard (tandem) 145mm rear-spacing with matching hub, but tightening down the quick-release moves the derailleur hanger, screwing up the shifting.  I can re-adjust, but next time I remove the wheel, it shifts poorly until adjusted again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an aluminum frame, so re-spacing it isn't an option.  Ideas of what is going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T16:43:24.390" Title="Derailleur hanger moves when tightening quick release" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24346" CreationDate="2014-08-25T14:28:55.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edited from my comments above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I would check is whether the hanger is removable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is removable, I would check that it is still bolted securely in place. It's pretty common that removable hangers sort of overlap with the dropout. So it's possible that the hanger is loose, and the QR is then clamping it firmly in to place, but then each time you remove and reattach the wheel it clamps in a slightly different position.  That could explain the tricky shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T14:28:55.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24350" CreationDate="2014-08-25T15:59:31.943" Score="2" ViewCount="1136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a regular road cyclist, but I seldom go off the roads for cycling and Mountain Cycling. The terrain being damn rough and uneven, the jerks and the vibrations cause a lot of pain and numbness in Arms and Shoulders after a specific amount of endurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have anybody tried a kind of a posture or may be skin-tight attire so that it is reduced? Or, how can I practice to endure such vibrations? This is rather a bit (or a lot) different than a regular exercise routine for strength building, isn't it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It doesn't have front and rear suspensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8605" LastEditorUserId="8605" LastEditDate="2014-08-26T08:11:59.173" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T13:03:15.717" Title="Minimizing the pain in Biceps and Shoulders due to Mountain Cycling or Offroad cycling" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24348" CreationDate="2014-08-25T16:16:37.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four factors I can think of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bike&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;tires&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;riding style &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;conditioning&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bicycle has full suspension then less vibration.  Carbon frame will absorb vibration.    The fit of the bike is a huge factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger tires at lower pressure will absorb vibration.  Can run tubeless tires at lower pressure.   If you are running smaller tires then go to a bigger tire like 2.2 - 2.4 if your frame will allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding style has a lot to do with arm and shoulder fatigue. Try and relax. Move your body forward and back. Don't muscle the bars. Get in the middle and let the bike rock under you. Even if you can just learn to relax between the ruff sections you will gain a lot as the muscles get a chance to recover and get more blood flow.  Watch a good rider on ruff downhill - they are relaxed and a beginner will be tensed up fighting it the whole way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more you ride trails the more you will condition those muscles.  In the gym push up, pull up, fly, ...  Whatever is sore find the exercise that engages that muscle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-26T13:03:15.717" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T13:03:15.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23420" CreationDate="2014-08-25T16:24:29.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the chain won't move to the smallest sprocket, there are two likely causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too much tension on the Bowden cable (usually a result of re-tightening it too much – during operation it is more likely to lose tension)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;outer limiter screw on the derailleur too tight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there's also the possibility of a bent derailleur, but I'll leave that out for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While turning the wheels, shift to the lowest gear (so the chain is on the second-last sprocket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly increase the tension on the Bowden cable, either by pulling at an exposed section of the cable or by gently moving the shifter towards a lower gear. Watch if the derailleur moves inward as you do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it does, the Bowden cable is likely to be too tight. If you have a barrel adjuster (on your handle bars or the derailleur itself), try screwing it a little further inwards. If it it already at its limit, you may need to loosen the screw that holds the Bowden cable in place at the rear derailleur only far enough for the cable to slip out a bit, then re-tighten it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the derailleur did not move in the previous test, or you had to tighten the cable by a significant amount to get it to move, it may be the limiter screw. You will find two screws labeled H and L on your derailleur. Make sure you have shifted all the way to the smallest sprocket, then slightly loosen the L screw by turning it counterclockwise. You should notice the derailleur moving outward by a small amount. Don't go too far as this might cause your chain to derail – better to move forward in small steps and test in between, then adjust further if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now try shifting to one of the inner sprockets and back to the smallest one. If you succeed – good, if not, repeat the above steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you can shift to the smallest sprocket, shift to the biggest sprocket. Then, shift to the next smaller sprocket. Repeat until you reach the smallest one. Then shift back, sprocket by sprocket, until you are back at the biggest one. You should reach each sprocket with no rattling from the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hear a rattle on one of the middle sprockets, or you cannot reach some of them, you will need to tweak the tension of your Bowden cable. Shift to a position where there is a rattle, and turn the barrel adjuster so that the rattle goes away (again, turn a bit and listen to find out the right direction and the right amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13538" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T16:24:29.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-25T17:57:04.110" Score="11" ViewCount="78795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in a bike shop recently asking for dry lube, and the sales guy told me that the wet/dry distinction is just one that Finishline uses for their product lines, not an actual distinction between chain lubes in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, other bike store folks have told me that there is a difference, and that wet lube can be applied less frequently, but will tend to collect grit and sand more, while dry lube is less adhesive to that stuff, but must be reapplied more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any of these right or close to right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13539" LastEditorUserId="13539" LastEditDate="2014-08-25T21:31:23.840" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T06:45:05.073" Title="Difference between wet and dry chain lube" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-08-26T13:40:12.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24352" CreationDate="2014-08-25T18:31:09.693" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different lubes will have different characteristics with respect to durability - some will do better in wet or muddy environments while others may do better in dry or dusty environments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, note that chain maintenance is a matter of &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot;&gt;religious belief&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other bike store people are correct in this case - dry lube is designed for bikes which operate in dry conditions (so they dry to something thin and waxy to prevent dust collection - normally these are something like wax or teflon or something suspended in alcohol or something that evaporates out), but does not work as well as their wet lube (which is just some grease/oil) in wet conditions. The key thing is to lubricate well, and remove excess lubricant to minimize grime. Generally, companies which produce more than one lubricant will market them based on their intended operating conditions (whether they work better than the others in a given operating condition has to be determined experimentally). You can look at the back of the bottles to see what the manufacturer suggests. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longevity of any lubricant is highly dependent on operating conditions, and the longevity of a chain is a function of how clean it is as well as how lubricated it is. You may want to experiment with different lubes as to what works well for your riding conditions as well as invest in a chain cleaner such as the Park Tool GC2. Generally though, wet lubes last longer than dry lubes but do attract dirt more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, its Finishline presumably rather than Frontline (which makes flea+heartworm medicine for dogs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-25T18:56:43.463" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T18:56:43.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24331" CreationDate="2014-08-25T19:39:38.723" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at titanium frame bikes on the web you can see their warranties. Most have very long or life time warranties that cover everything but crashes and deliberate damage to the frame. So I would assume this frame was involved in a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three types or cracks in titanium frames (from best to worst):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weld crack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;seam crack (titanium comes in sheets that are bent into tubes and seam welded.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stress crack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can weld titanium (but you need an inert gas shield to prevent O2 &amp;amp; N2 absorption while the material cools). Seam and weld cracks are relatively easy to fix. (But still pricey.) A stress crack may not be repairable at all, and I'm not sure I would trust it in any case on the BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So without anymore information, I would say you have a crashed frame with frame failure. It is in the worst possible place. A repair will be expensive and may not even be possible. The repair was also not covered under the frames original warranty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking at the crack again, there is another possibility. When you weld titanium you have to shield the metal with an inert gas as it cools. Otherwise it can absorb O2 or N2 from the air. If the titanium absorbs either gas it becomes brittle and will crack over time. This crack is right near the BB at the seat of two major welds. The tube would have been very hot there and if it was not properly shielded by argon during welding and cooling, it could have absorbed air during that period. &lt;strong&gt;That effectively wrecks the titanium.&lt;/strong&gt; This type of problem can not be fixed. &lt;em&gt;(It should have been covered under warranty though.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a good frame to avoid no matter how cheap the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastEditorUserId="5360" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T21:10:56.503" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T21:10:56.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24352" CreationDate="2014-08-25T19:46:48.120" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wet and Dry lube are pretty much universal terms, they're not constrained to one manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet lube is suitable for wet conditions, dry lube is suitable for dry conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet lube is quite sticky. It will stick to your mech and is less likely to get washed off by rain. The downside, because it is sticky, it can pick up crap from the road, as those guys said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry lube is a much lighter lube. It should keep your mech quite clean, the downside is that because it is that much lighter, it'll get washed off in wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards use, it really depends on where you live and your climate. Where I am (UK) I tend to use dry lube in the summer and wet lube in the winter. If I think I can get away with it, I'll lean toward dry lube (although I won't put dry lube on top of wet lube, I'm more likely to clean the chain first). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally if you look at a given manufacturer, they will likely have both wet and dry products, possibly others too. All are optimised for certain conditions. For example, the manufacturer White Lightning makes four lubes (described &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.whitelightningco.com/products/index.htm&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). I use Epic (which is a dry-ish lube) and Wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-08-25T20:34:29.663" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T20:34:29.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24331" CreationDate="2014-08-25T21:56:21.873" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am I looking at the right thing?  The little line running across the seat tube about 1cm above the bottom bracket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say, but personally I'm not sure that's a crack at all.  It looks more like a scratch.  I say that because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) it looks shallow, and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) that is a really, really weird place for a crack to occur.  There are four types of stress (if I remember my solid mechanics correctly) that could cause a frame to crack: shear (picture gripping a pipe with your hands next to each other and pushing with one and pulling with the other), bending, torsion, or tension.  Compression wouldn't lead to a crack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's basically no way that you could apply enough shear force, bending force, or torsional force at that location on the frame to crack it (even a fatigue crack over time), so we'll discount those (plus, you'd expect to see other deformation from bending).  That leaves tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is totally possible to apply a huge tensile load to a seat tube, for instance by coming down on the pedals really hard after a drop.  However, I would imagine that 999 times out of 1,000 it would fail at the welds, not in the middle of the tube like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not saying you should buy the frame, but it might be worth asking the guy for more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T21:56:21.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24339" CreationDate="2014-08-25T22:57:28.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an emergency, you could always push out the pin of the next link (not fully, obiously) and reattach it where you removed the first pin. You'd lose a link (and possibly a gear) but you'd be able to ride home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13531" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T22:57:28.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24363" CreationDate="2014-08-26T05:11:53.880" Score="4" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm buying a used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/mProduct4_10551_10052_1095484_-1_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scattante 44cm w330&lt;/a&gt; with starter components and I'm fairly new to biking/commuting by bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commute to work is fairly short, but its through a busy downtown area. I'm not so comfortable balancing on these skinny tires, much less weaving my way through traffic on them (700x23)... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be plausible/wise for me to place wider tires on this bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what would you recommend? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe distance tires? I hear they are wider...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance, (we were all noobs at one point, right?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;^.^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13545" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-08-26T08:21:53.983" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T18:54:18.223" Title="Thinking of putting wider tires on intro Scattante w330...thoughts?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24359" CreationDate="2014-08-26T06:12:59.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah, definitely put some 28s on there. They'll give you better traction, better handling ( especially on most commutes ), and more comfort. Go for a nice, durable city tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't try to save money on tires, spend a few extra dollars on high quality tires and you'll never look back. Nice tires will last longer, perform better, and save you time and money by preventing flats. If you buy cheap tires, you'll just end up spending even more money on tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/continental-sport-contact-tire-700c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/continental-sport-contact-tire-700c&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Try to make sure the tire you choose fits your frame, your local bike shop shouldn't have any trouble helping you with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T18:54:18.223" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T18:54:18.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24352" CreationDate="2014-08-26T06:45:05.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warning: no cycling topic sparks such heated debate as chain maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet lubes go on wet and stay wet.&#xA;Basically oils, with various additives, ranging from thin &amp;amp; lightweight to thicker &amp;amp; heavier. Apply to chain, wipe off excess, wipe chain after each ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dry lubes go on wet, then the carrier dries leaving a dry chain.&#xA;These come in various formulas, many are wax based. Apply to clean chain, let dry. Most dry lubes require more frequent application than wet lubes and should be reapplied after a rainy ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T06:45:05.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-26T11:28:30.293" Score="1" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went for a ride this morning and my handlebars were loose. I now realize that it is unsafe to ride like that but my average speed was dramatically lower. Do you think it is because of my loose handlebars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13547" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T11:48:22.077" Title="Will loose handlebars result in slower riding?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24359" CreationDate="2014-08-26T11:29:28.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bigger tires means that you can run them at lower pressures while avoiding road hazard damage and increasing cushioning to give a better ride. They may be a bit less responsive or feel slower than some thinner tires, but this will not matter on a commute. Bigger tires also do better with heavier riders (23's require &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/inflation_pressure#correct&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pretty high pressure&lt;/a&gt; for &quot;heavy&quot; riders to avoid pinch flats). The balancing on a thin tire is a non-issue -- what you're probably having trouble with is the twitchier steering of the bike you're using compared to what you're used to (which is a function of the geometry of the bike). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a good idea to move up from 23's, but not all frames can clear decently large tires these days -- I suspect a lot of newer road frames can clear a 25, but a 28 may be a stretch. You need some &lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/03/12/how-wide-a-tire-can-i-run/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;clearance&lt;/a&gt; (at least 3 mm) from the frame/brake caliper to account for tire deflection and prevent rubbing of the tire on the frame. I doubt newer non-cross/touring bikes/commuter/etc. will have tire clearance for a 32. This is especially true if you have fenders on the bike (which most wet weather commuters will want, but most non-cross/touring/commuter bikes don't have room for). Note that also you don't want to put a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;narrow tire on a wide rim or vice versa&lt;/a&gt;, but this is likely something you won't encounter due to clearance issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a tire with a kevlar belt for puncture protection, and read some reviews on comfort and durability. For road use, you don't really want tread patterns (you want a smooth tire). Either measure the actual size of the tire you have on now and then see if a 25 or 28 will likely clear the brakes, or better yet, go to a bike shop so you won't have to guess on what size tire will clear the brakes and you'll get a tire which works well for most people in the area.  For the reason of clearance (and the fact that we generally don't do product recommendations on this site) which has to be measured, I don't want to recommend a specific tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue is that tires are sometimes &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#dishonest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mislabeled in sizing&lt;/a&gt; (despite Sheldon's claims that this has abated, it is still there). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-26T12:51:20.810" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T12:51:20.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24362" CreationDate="2014-08-26T11:36:58.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With loose handlebars, the primary thing which you should be worrying about is your face - its a great way to lead to a nasty crash. Don't ride with loose parts on your bike. Speed is the last thing you should be worrying about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You likely went slower due to less control of the bike with loose handlebars making your brain hold you back on speed. Other factors such as environment or tired-ness may have come into play, but loose handlebars would make most people ride slowly and carefully [or better yet, walk the bike], avoiding any bumps until they could tighten down the handlebars if they weren't carrying the appropriate tools with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're riding intensely, you actually end up pulling up on your handlebars, which you can't do with loose handlebars so you can't ride as hard, so you can lose speed at the top end with loose handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T11:36:58.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24359" CreationDate="2014-08-26T11:46:55.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you can run any width of tire that can safely clear the brakes and frame and which is not &quot;too wide&quot; for the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When considering brake/frame clearance you need to understand that a &quot;wider&quot; tire will not only be wider but &quot;taller&quot;, so make sure that the outer circumference of the tire will not rub against the frame or the brake pivot (in the case of caliper brakes).  And if the new tires have a deeper tread than the old ones, account for that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's &quot;too wide&quot; for a rim is hard to say -- there are no rigid rules.  My rims are about 20mm, yet I run 45mm tires (and this is the way it came from the manufacturer).  Your rims also look to be about 20mm, so rim width is likely not an issue for you -- you could easily run 35mm tires on them (if you have the frame clearance).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you install wider tires, be sure to carefully check the brake pads to assure they do not rub against the side of the tire &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;, when brakes are being applied (since this will eventually wear a hole in the tire -- ask me how I know).  It may be necessary to move the brake pads a little lower (or have a bike shop do it) to eliminate potential rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest seeing if a 28 or 32 will fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T11:46:55.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24359" CreationDate="2014-08-26T11:50:47.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most road frames aren't going to take tires beyond 28mm.  There are exceptions.  Cyclocross bikes will take wider tires.  A 'cross bike makes a good commuter if it has mount points for fenders and a rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although tire width is a personal preference, the wider road tires are usually better for commuting on city streets.  I run 35mm tires on my city bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Scattante may end up being your &lt;em&gt;fast&lt;/em&gt; bike.  Then you can buy a commuter bike.  Everyone should have more than one bike.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T11:50:47.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-26T12:07:07.607" Score="-1" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed my chain on my bike last week for a new 9-speed SRAM chain. When I did this it became apparent that my cassette was worn beyond use, so I took my bike for a service at my local shop. They replaced the cassette, did some repairs to the rear hub &amp;amp; truing of the wheel, replaced all cables &amp;amp; cable housing, and aligned the dérailleurs. The chain was the correct length &amp;amp; fitted properly by me last week... (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24316/risks-problems-of-a-short-chain&quot;&gt;Risks/problems of a short chain&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I should go to the shop and ask for a replacement chain (free of charge). &lt;strong&gt;Given the work the shop did, is it likely that the shop would have removed &amp;amp; reattached the chain and therefore, could they have damaged it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T08:06:40.660" Title="New chain snaps after shop service" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21330" CreationDate="2014-08-26T12:53:53.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As usual, I think the best way to consider this is through energy;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in moving from rest at the top of a hill (height h), the conservation of energy applies between potential energy at the top and kinetic at the bottom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mgh = MV^2 + losses(due to aero and rolling resistance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;therefore &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V = sqrt( gh - losses/M )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as losses are not proportional to mass, then factoring them down by mass reduces their influence on speed for the heavier rider, regardless of whether terminal velocity has been reached or not&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13550" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T12:53:53.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14261" CreationDate="2014-08-26T13:14:30.863" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of rim strip are you using? If you are using a cloth strip, the thickness of that material makes it nearly impossible to mount a tire. Their website says to use a low profile tape, typically used for tubeless applications. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/a23-622&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/a23-622&lt;/a&gt; &quot;Tight tolerances require the use of a low profile rim tape like Velotape to avoid tire installation issues.&quot; Rims manufactured in Australia shouldn't have this issue as they did not have the tubeless web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: also make sure the far bead of the tire is sitting in the drop center portion of the rim. This should give the difficult portion of the tire bead enough slack to mount inside the bead hook of the rim with much less difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7563" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T21:06:22.437" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T21:06:22.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24288" CreationDate="2014-08-26T14:00:18.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this issue last week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at your rear derailleur and check it can go through the whole range of movement. Its possible that the spring has gone or the hanger for the jockey wheels has seized and won't move correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case try some degreaser on it, dry and add lube. If you still have the problem it may be easiest to replace the derailleur itself and the cable used for shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13551" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T14:00:18.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-26T14:11:38.673" Score="7" ViewCount="2780" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I use up less when I go down the hill? What is better? If I really drive down (I start down the hill fast and when I will at the foot of the hill I will have a rest since I slow down to my average velocity - in this point I will start pedaling again.) or if I have rest by the way down the hill and start pedal again at the foot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13552" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T00:58:39.760" Title="Is it preferable to pedal downhill?" Tags="&lt;racing-strategy&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14261" CreationDate="2014-08-26T14:12:06.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had similar problems with other Velocity rims. This tool can help a lot when you have a really tight fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001AYML7K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yOJ7U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also helps to move the tire bead on the opposite side down into the center of the rim, sometimes even a few mm makes all the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My riding buddy uses Michelen Pro Service Course 4's on his A23 rims and does not have any problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T14:12:06.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24372" CreationDate="2014-08-26T15:33:23.470" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;(MTB rider here, XC &amp;amp; DH, with little road exp.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a certain speed for which up to that speed you should pedal, above it you gain more from adopting the most aerodynamic position and use gravity the best you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case I find this speed by trial and error in specific circumstances, because it changes according to slope, terrain, bike and tires used and length of the descent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have found is that once you get to the highest gear and start approaching your max cadence, it is very difficult to provide the power needed to accelerate, and it may be even harder to do so while tucked in aero position. At this point, if the incline is steep enough, tucking in more will give you more advantage than pedalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In have one example, where a hardtail mtb with knobby tires on a paved road with little incline (I can ride it up at 20km/hr approx) this speed is around &lt;strong&gt;42 km/hr&lt;/strong&gt;. At this point I'm near max cadence in highest gear, so I adopt my aero position. It is common for me to even overtake other riders who are pedaling and when I get to the bottom of the hill, I can pedal harder because I have had a rest during the descent. In those descents, I get near &lt;strong&gt;50 Km/hr&lt;/strong&gt; just because of aerodynamics. (In a road bike in the same road, my threshold is near the same, and i know/feel my speed in aero position is much higher, unfortunately I don't have the numbers yet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works for me because in my general shape and level of fitness, on MTB rides, if I stop and rest for 3-5 minutes I resume pedalling approx 5 km/hr faster than if I pedal continuously. For longer rests my body starts to cool down and I have to re-warm up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is where descent length comes into place. If the descent is long enough for you to cool down, (climate can have a role in this too) then the benefit of the rest you get, is negated because once you get to the bottom of the hill you have cooled off and will have to warm up again. For these cases, I recommend what some call &quot;soft pedalling&quot;, that is pedal just to keep the blood flowing, sustaining the heart rate up. This can be done at intervals, alternating between aero position and soft pedalling, according to your cool-off time in that particular descent/climate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to find a certain speed threshold, a simple computer will do. I know this is subjective, but there is a speed where you feel you need to put double the effort to get 1 Km/hr faster. In that point tuck in aero position an watch what happens with your speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T00:58:39.760" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T00:58:39.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24368" CreationDate="2014-08-26T17:29:14.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chances are they misaligned the gears a little. I've snapped a few new chains and the most common circumstance is after I've messed with my gear indexing (I'd say &quot;sorting out&quot; but breaking a chain indicates it didn't work). There IS a chance that it's just a bad chain but it's also possible you did something wrong too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd call the bike shop and tell them and see what they say rather than accusing them. If you bought the chain online, call the online retailer and speak to them too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T17:29:14.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24372" CreationDate="2014-08-26T17:33:06.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few possible answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1, For racing yes but as Jahaziel says, you will reach a point where either the effort is too great to increase speed or actually you're just spinning out&#xA;2, On a ride for fun or fitness there's no NEED to pedal downhill but I find that if it's downhill followed by an uphill it launches you into the hill with more momentum which at least starts the climb better&#xA;3, Obviously you might be trying to better a descent time in which case treat it like racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously all this is dependent on the conditions, your skill and your experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T17:33:06.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3092" CreationDate="2014-08-26T17:36:41.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purefix makes a 22.2mm bullhorn bar: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.purefixcycles.com/products/bull-horn-bars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.purefixcycles.com/products/bull-horn-bars&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about trying it out on my commuter build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13557" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T17:36:41.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-26T20:38:14.590" Score="3" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to assemble the rear wheel of my bike. I have sorted the spokes into two groups by their length. It seems like I do everything correct according to video tutorials and articles but when I put the last group of 8 spokes they appear to be longer than needed and the nipples come out of the rim by 0.5-1.0 cm. What is the reason ? Is it a common problem ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T03:43:30.407" Title="Bike wheel Assembly" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-27T02:34:59.250" Score="2" ViewCount="1068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2009 Specialized Allez Sport C2.  It came with shimano 105 components all around.  the left hand (front) shifter recently broke, and will no longer hold a position.  I can reach down and grasp the shifter cable and pull it, and the derailleur will move, so it is definitely the shifter.  As i understand it, this is a common problem for that vintage of shimano 105's.  I'm trying to figure out how to replace the brifters with compatible components, so I won't have to replace the whole groupset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;new 105 components are extremely expensive, and are set up for an 11 speed rear.  What are my options to just replace the brifters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13559" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T03:04:10.640" Title="Replacement Brifters for a shimano 105 2x10" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24381" CreationDate="2014-08-27T03:04:10.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is check the brifter out to see if its actually broken - maybe its just a cable broken at the brifter or inadequate cable tension or something. You can get your bike shop to check this out. If it is broken, you can look for people who specialize in refurbishing brifters (they do exist, but they are hard to find). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for replacement brifters, any Shimano 10 speed brifter will work on the right (you can easily find 10 speed Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, etc. shifters on the web (I see several at Chain Reaction Cycles, for example)). On the left, you just need a Shimano brifter set up for a double. You can buy just a left or just a right in some cases (possibly on ebay).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options are to use something like a Retroshift or bar-end shifters and a regular brake lever instead of a brifter. Microshift brifters are also Shimano compatible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T03:04:10.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18068" CreationDate="2014-08-27T12:39:40.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the clothing was cotton, cotton blend or what have you, but this has worked for me in the past:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using your fingernails or a dull knife or scraper, pick off as much of the excess cement from the fabric as you can. You can try gently pulling, scraping or rolling fragments as best you can&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've used a little petroleum jelly rubbed on the cement to loosen it further. Repeat step 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a spray solvent like Goo-Gone. Let it soak for a few minutes and repeat step 1. You may want to rinse with lukewarm water and repeat applications of the solvent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Launder your clothing as normal, using the hottest temperature recommended for the material. You may want to dab a bit of your normal laundry detergent on each glue spot before washing as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By no means will this always work. Depending on the fabric and dye, even if you get all the glue off the clothing you may still be stuck with visible spots or stains. But, if like me, you got cement on a favorite pair of work pants while fixing a flat on your morning commute it's probably worth the effort. If it doesn't work, you weren't going to wear the clothes much with the stains anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T13:45:44.917" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T13:45:44.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24368" CreationDate="2014-08-27T16:54:57.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The work they did doesn't require the chain to be removed (as others have mentioned).  It could be a defect but once again, the prices of chain are way to cheap to worry about it.  Given the volume of chain SRAM puts out, one in a million chance.  The rest of the chain is fine however so remove the broken link and keep on riding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When adding links, chain pins can be tricky to get right.  It requires a close eye and very small adjustments to make sure the pin is in correctly.  Take note that when using chain tools, it will squish the link parts tightly together so that they do not move.  You have to then apply force in the opposite direction to make them move freely.  I learned all this from a Bicycle Tutor video (now pay-walled last time I checked), but I'm sure Youtube has more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I had to replace a chain, I made it too short at first, but then added some to it.  It worked great for a week until it popped just as I was leaving for work (well a mile down the road).  It failed at the spot that I had to add the links at.  I pushed the pin in too far and didn't give the plate enough pin to bite into.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done a few more chains since then and found that I have to go slow and make fine adjustments (1/8 of a turn).  Compare with the links around it to make sure it looks right, that the gaps are spaced right, and then only apply just as much force needed to make it move freely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T16:54:57.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24414" CreationDate="2014-08-27T18:48:25.987" Score="1" ViewCount="1297" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake pads for a rim brake are usually treated with Carbon Black (powered carbon) to make them last longer. This is what makes them black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I ride a road bike in hilly areas, the carbon black accumulates on the rim and on areas surrounding the brake pads. Later, if I ride the bike in the rain (without fenders), this powder mixes with dirty water kicked up by the wheels, and spreads around on the frame of the bike, and into gaps on the headset and bottom bracket. If allowed to dry, it becomes extremely difficult to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I remove as much as I can with elbow grease, and then make an abrasive paste out of water and baking soda. The paste works pretty well, but leaves a residue. Further, on some of the really bad stains, it seems to spread out the carbon as much as clean it off. It still needs a lot of rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard cleaner in which carbon black is soluble? Is there a better way to remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T23:37:35.613" Title="Cleaning Carbon Black off a Bicycle" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-27T19:11:44.620" Score="-3" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I cycle I can feel wobbling in the direction. I feel it even more and can even see it if I ride no handed. It gets really bad when I put luggage on my low rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is a 62cm touring steel bike with 700 wheels, the head tube is really long, about 9 inches without the crowns. The wheel oscillate by about 2 degrees with luggage on at about 35 km/h (22 mph). The handle bar being kept about straight. So all the wobbling is torsion in the steering tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T19:32:35.447" Title="What can cause direction to wobble?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24387" CreationDate="2014-08-27T19:32:35.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found it is called speed wobble. It can come from loose headset, loose spokes, bad tire, misaligned wheel, too-high saddle (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roadbikerider.com/advanced-skills/speed-wobble&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.roadbikerider.com/advanced-skills/speed-wobble&lt;/a&gt;), geometry and  physiology might be the problem (&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2011/03/speed-wobble-when-the-bike-shakes-its-head/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2011/03/speed-wobble-when-the-bike-shakes-its-head/&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to avoid it is to hold the top tube in descent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T19:32:35.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24461" CreationDate="2014-08-27T20:51:19.403" Score="3" ViewCount="11952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to clip less riding. I just purchased and installed Shimano R540 SPD SL Road Pedals for my bike. I also got Shimano R064 SPD SL Road Shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been practising clipping in and out indoors in the hallway using the walls either side to balance myself whilst on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can clip in without too much difficulty, but find it extremely tough to clip out (even with the tension set to the lowest setting). I found that I am twisting and then almost yanking the shoes out of the pedals. I'm pretty sure this isn't how it is meant to be. If I attempted this on the road, I would fall flat on my face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have sprayed some lubricant on the pedals in the hope that they loosen overnight. But other than that I've been stumped as to what else I could do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate any tips, helpful suggestions and advice on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8590" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T20:09:53.617" Title="Why are my Shimano R540 SPD SL Road Pedals incredibly stiff to clip out of?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-28T01:06:15.467" Score="3" ViewCount="1945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just moved to a new place, and it's pretty small, so I'm looking to put my bike out of the way by hanging it from a (plenty sturdy) pipe that runs along my ceiling. At the moment I've got it jury-rigged with bungee cords, but that's obviously not a long-term solution. It seems that most of the hooks sold online are either wall-mount (not viable for me since my walls are concrete) or screw into the ceiling (not viable for the same reason). Is there any other method - such as hooks that are meant to actually hang off of something else - that might work here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My current setup&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GJ5wU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13539" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T08:52:03.560" Title="Best way to hang a bicycle from a ceiling pipe" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24390" CreationDate="2014-08-28T01:31:42.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have room to hang the bike vertically by the rear wheel, it's pretty easy to assemble what you need from parts at the hardware store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_267966-46882-24195PEXLG_4294646759__?productId=3721860&amp;amp;Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&amp;amp;pl=1&amp;amp;currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&amp;amp;facetInfo=&quot;&gt;cushioned hanger&lt;/a&gt; to put the rear wheel in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then Google &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=bike%20pipe%20hanger&amp;amp;oq=bike%20pipe%20hanger&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.4565j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=pipe%20hangers&quot;&gt;pipe hangers&lt;/a&gt; to find something to attach the hanger above to the pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also look for a coated S hook for the bike wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T01:31:42.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15420" CreationDate="2014-08-28T01:40:43.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can charge the Edge 500 whilst riding at the same time, and record your ride as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joewein.net/blog/2013/03/04/garmin-edge-usb-power-hack/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.joewein.net/blog/2013/03/04/garmin-edge-usb-power-hack/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: an OTG adapter cable will charge the Garmin 500 using the rear port and allow it to keep recording.  The Garmin tests one of the pins to see if it should go into PC Storage device mode, which ends the ride.  The OTG adapter grounds the pin under test, and the garmin just gets power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2021-03-26T02:10:24.897" LastActivityDate="2021-03-26T02:10:24.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24418" CreationDate="2014-08-28T01:48:12.253" Score="4" ViewCount="2092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am starting to ride with a bunch of cyclists doing on average 40 to 50k.&#xA;My personal average is around mid 30s to 45k/hr.&#xA;Aside from proper training, exercise and leg muscles, what food do you recommend to give you a &lt;strong&gt;quick energy boost&lt;/strong&gt; to be able to keep up with the bunch?&#xA;I was told Mars Bars are quick energy sources, but high in the bad stuff. Any other more natural recommendations?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T14:31:24.400" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T10:55:48.413" Title="What's the quickest &quot;boost food&quot; whilst riding in a fast bunch?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2014-08-28T01:51:31.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Energy gels such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://guenergy.com/guenergygel-original.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GU Energy gels&lt;/a&gt; are a pretty common quick acting energy source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more natural source, you could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://capilano.com.au/products/australia/honey-shotz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;honey&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T01:51:31.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2014-08-28T02:18:27.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure you are after &quot;The quickest Boost food&quot; - seems the problem you have is likely to be over an extended period. If your problem is say &quot;they leave me behind up big hills&quot; then maybe a &quot;boost&quot; is what you are after, but if its just keeping up over the duration of the ride, quick boost food is not good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the likes of Jelly beans, honey etc is the quick boost is followed by an energy crash - often of disproportionate proportions to the boost you got. These sources have a place - but generally should only be used when the finish line is in site and only when you know how the affect you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bananas, energy bars and  gels are usually better as they have more complex carbs that release the energy over a longer time and reduce the effects of the low sugar crash. These should be used before you feel the need for them, so the energy is there when its needed, and ideally consumed regularly in small amounts - if needed set a repeating timer and eat when it beeps - every 10-20 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As everyone is different, the best advise is to try different foods and choose one you like, and different frequencies and amounts - most people do better on small and often. Do this before you need it - some gels make me want to vomit when working hard, others work really well for me. If you have one that disagrees with you, best its not when you are not trying to keep up with a bunch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T02:18:27.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2014-08-28T03:23:15.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjjMIwv6nCG4jYCXM8tWvvg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skratchlabs&lt;/a&gt; has made a series of youtube videos for lots of types of food for different types of energy. You may want to thumb through them in order to find something which works for you (your stomach may not agree with everything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I particularly like about the Skratchlabs videos is that they have a nice way of packaging &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; foods in foil so you can eat while riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cliff makes Cliff Shot Bloks and companies make similar energy gel type products which you may want to try as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-29T12:57:25.620" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T12:57:25.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-28T04:56:49.617" Score="8" ViewCount="1594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to fix up my old (1999) Trek 4500, and I've run into a snag while adjusting the front derailleur. It's a Shimano FD-CT92 (bottom bracket mounted E-type), and it's rubbing against the largest chainring when it's in the middle gear position. There doesn't seem to be any height adjustement on that type of shifter. I've checked all the documentation I could find, and the chainrings are within spec (42T, 34T, 24T). In any case, all the equipment is original to the bike, and I've never had this problem before.... Any ideas on how to fix this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some additional info:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the derailleur looks like when it's in the middle chainring position&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GH0NE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbMGh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FD-CT92 derailleur is bolted to the bottom bracket plate in a way that prevents any height adjustment. A flange that fits around the seat tube also keeps the angle fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the photo below is with the derailleur detached from the bracket plate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/brTXg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing that I've noticed is that the cage can be wiggled around a bit. Is that normal? Do derailleurs wear out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ce43W.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13567" LastEditorUserId="13567" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T18:37:14.800" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T15:42:17.943" Title="Front derailleur rubbing against chainring" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24390" CreationDate="2014-08-28T08:52:03.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that's not a carbon frame (I don't dare go near them) I would try to hang it from the frame near the saddle.  I'm guessing with suspension forks and a rack it will probably balance just forward of the saddle.  A nice wide (e.g. 200mm) single hook would seem to me to be the way to go - an S-hook but made of sheet material, or 2 S-hooks joined together with a spacer. A snug fit and/or friction around the pipe will make it easier to put in - both can be achieved by foam sheet in a flat solution, or pipe insulation wrapped round a hook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pair of wall hooks could be bolted back-to-back (possibly bent a little further than as sold) to form S-hooks, with a sheet of plywood/aluminium between the held in by the same bolts to space the 2 hooks apart.  Gary E's answer (+1) gives an idea of some products you might start from - browse around the Lowes link to find something wide enough for the pipe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would give you a single lift with no strapping involved, but depending on where you live and who else has access it might be worth keeping a spare cable lock looped over the pipe to lock through the frame and deter casual opportunists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T08:52:03.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15420" CreationDate="2014-08-28T09:22:06.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A generic USB cable will have the Edge switch to storage mode but I've found the Garmin cables allow charging whilst using. I have an external battery pack which I used on day-long back-country rides in the alps and could plug it in whilst on a chairlift or at a bar without interrupting the tracking. Arguably I didn't need to but it does mean that when I get a USB dynamo hub I have the cable ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T09:22:06.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2014-08-28T09:26:07.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's about keeping your energy up NOT about somehow generating 5kmph more from food. You'll go faster through training but it won't help if you bonk half way through a ride. I tend to &quot;fuel&quot; up before a ride then eat as I go along; usually rice cakes or cereal bars. For a bit of emergency energy if I'm flagging I'll go with a gel (some give me cramps tho) or something like shot bloks. However I can say with confidence that if I'd eaten properly as I rode, I'd never have needed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, if your AVERAGE speed on a solo ride is 35-45kmph, I'd start racing pretty; that is pretty quick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T09:26:07.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2014-08-28T11:26:08.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mars Bars are not that great for cycling. Yes, they have quite a lot of calories, so will give you some energy. But most of that is simple sugars, so it may be a quick energy boost, but soon followed by an energy crash. Also Mars Bars have quite a lot of fat (about 17g per 100g), so this can not be easily digested while cycling hard - it could just make you sick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mars Bars are not very practical either. On a warm day, a bar in your back pocket will probably melt, so become rather messy and difficult to eat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T11:26:08.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24398" CreationDate="2014-08-28T12:31:13.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like it could be the tension on the cable. If its the original then replace it. If its new then look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/tech/fix/?id=frontmech&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reindexing the gears&lt;/a&gt;? Have a look on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; for a much more comprehensive run down of what it might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fails it could be that its got rotated or slipped at some point. Just loosen the screw holding it to the frame and lift it up a few mm. Should make things a bit better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13551" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T12:31:13.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2014-08-28T13:10:33.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the other cyclists in your group eating?  I go out for similarly long rides, and most people don't eat anything on the ride.  I would say to make sure you are well fed (but not overly full) before the ride starts, and you probably won't feel the need to eat something for the ride. 50 KM at an average speed of 35 km/h will mean that the ride is over in an hour and a half.  Bring a bottle with Gatorade or similar to keep your electrolytes up, and possibly another bottle of just water for those times when you feel like just having water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are going to eat something, eat small amounts on a regular basis, and don't wait until you feel like you need more energy.  By that time it's already too late.  The same goes for water. Drink before you start to feel thirsty.  Get to know your own body and how much water/food you're going to need for a particular length and difficulty of ride so that your body doesn't end up with a deficit during the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T13:10:33.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2014-08-28T13:33:29.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I typically eat Powerbars or gels like GU if I need more intake on the bike. Additionally, I have a electrolyte mix like Cytomax in my water bottles which keeps me ingesting salts and calories. Bananas are also great, though I eat so many post-ride that I typically don't eat them on the bike unless it's a really long ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're slowly eating throughout the ride, I see no reason to need a &quot;quick boost&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T13:33:29.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-28T14:02:31.317" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced my front tire. About 3 days post replacement I noticed that the pressure in that tire was at about 50psi (Its a road bike - I keep it around 120).&#xA;I pumped it up and hoped for the best for my ride home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't have time to check for the leak that day so I left until the next day. &#xA;Next day the pressure was fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;about 5 days later it again dropped down to around 50 and I pumped it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now its been about 2 weeks and the pressure is holding as well as it usually does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whats going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T05:12:12.310" Title="phantom leak that fixed itself?" Tags="&lt;presta&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24407" CreationDate="2014-08-28T14:31:48.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Luck, most likely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html#slowleaks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;slow leak&lt;/a&gt;, which you could treat by replacing the tube or just keep pumping air in as necessary. Less plausibly, theres something up with your valve. You could try taking the tube out of the tire and pumping it up with a bit of air and putting it in your bath tub to see if you can find some bubbles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[In the comments, DRH has the reverse ordering on plausibilities]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T18:17:35.173" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T18:17:35.173" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24411" CreationDate="2014-08-28T18:40:50.183" Score="9" ViewCount="6606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently replaced the chain and the cassette. Previous chain never slipped. I never had &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; problems with it at all. But I have made about 10 000 km on it and the wear was beyound any limits, so friends and guys in the bike service recommended replacing both chain and the cassette. I did a lot of reading and I know that chain and the cassette wear together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I got chain and the cassette replaced. It is a 9 speed cassette. I have asked to replace it with a little lower gear ratio. Guys in the workshop also indexed the derailleur for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I collected my bike the chain slips terribly every time I stand up on the pedals. Sometimes it also slips when I apply enough pressure even while seated. But standing up is a definite slip. I already have few bruises from falling down on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had assumption about chain being too long, but is seems to be just about ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also figured out that the chain never slips if it is on the lowest or the highest chainring. It only happens with the middle chainring. As I have said before - it never happened before with the old chain/cassette. Now I have tried to stand up and pedal very hard in all gears on low and high chainrings. Never got a single slip in about half an hour of trying. Changed back to the middle chainring - it slips in every gear from 1 to 9 when enough torque is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is: can it be that chain is slipping at the chainring? Do chains ever slip at the chainring at all? I have never heard of anything like that. Is there a simple way to test it in order to be sure that the chainring is the root cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't want to blame it on the chainring and get it replaced just to figure out that the problem never went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T11:19:17.140" Title="Chain slipping on middle chainring" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24386" CreationDate="2014-08-28T18:51:35.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since no answers I will post my comment as an answer  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car wheel cleaner. It is made to deal with brake dust.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would not user car wheel cleaner on paint.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For hard to clean on paint I use a cleaner wax.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T18:51:35.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24409" CreationDate="2014-08-28T18:54:51.617" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I expect that after 10,000 km your chainring also needs to be replaced (frankly, I find it astonishing that you made it that far without replacing anything else.  That's amazing.).  Am I correct in guessing that you spend most of your time in your middle chainring?  If so, it will be significantly more worn than your large or small rings, which would explain why you're only experiencing slippage in that ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be very easy to tell if it needs to be replaced--either take it to your shop and have them look at it, or look at it yourself.  Worn chainrings will show a characteristic &quot;shark fin&quot; on the teeth if they're worn too badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B7Rkx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Notice the sloping on the teeth of the gear, and how they look kind of like shark fins&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T18:54:51.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24409" CreationDate="2014-08-28T18:58:30.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes a new chain can skip in either an old chain ring or old cassette.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length between chain lengths needs to match. So the old chain matched up to the old ring.  The new chain does not match up with the old chain ring.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the middle chain ring looks worn.  If so for sure time to replace it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicyclehabitat.com/faq/frequently-asked-questions-fq176/what-do-i-need-to-know-to-buy-new-chainrings-for-my-crankset-76.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;What do I need to know to buy new chainrings for my crankset?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T19:07:14.583" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T19:07:14.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24409" CreationDate="2014-08-28T20:41:47.640" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cogs and chains &quot;wear together&quot; (regardless of whether they are front rings or rear sprockets). The old chain does not slip on the ring, because the old chain's rollers are worn down. They have an overall smaller diameter than the rollers of a new chain, and also a different shape: new rollers are cylinders, but worn ones look like small pulleys, they have little &quot;waist&quot;, like &quot;inverse doughtnuts&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the old rollers are smaller, they can catch the worn teeth of the old ring better than the fat rollers of the brand new chain. Smaller wheels &quot;catch&quot; irregularities more easily: think about how a suitcase wheel can get stuck between a floor and elevator cabin, whereas a much larger baby stroller wheel will not.  Another effect is that if there is some so-called &quot;stretch&quot; in the worn chain (elongation due to wearing of the link pins), it affects how it meshes with the teeth. Though, overall, a stretched chain doesn't fit the ring, over a short section of where you are applying tension to the chain, it can mesh better with the worn teeth due to the stretch. Each successive roller is a little farther than it should be, which places it more into the deepest part of the valley after the next tooth. Lastly, possibly due to the wear profile on the rollers (the aforementioned &quot;waist&quot;) it may be the case that they &quot;mate&quot; better with the worn teeth, which have the opposite curvature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bicycle shop probably didn't recommend a change of rings because rings can last longer than cassettes. It is not unheard of to be able to change chain and cassette several times before having to do anything with the rings.  A guess is no substitute for inspection, however, not to mention basic testing. Maybe they just glanced at the largest ring, judged it to be okay, and neglected to take a look at the middle and smallest one, thinking they are used less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastEditorUserId="5088" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T20:55:44.983" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T20:55:44.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24386" CreationDate="2014-08-28T23:37:35.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual cleaners for rims are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;citrus cleaner&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;simple green&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;isopropanol (rubbing alcohol)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;dish soap and water&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to try them on your frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you may want to try a different type of brake pad to see if they reduce the dust (e.g. kool stop salmons). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T23:37:35.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24417" CreationDate="2014-08-29T00:01:40.380" Score="5" ViewCount="30049" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exactly as per the title. This is surprisingly hard for me to google. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found one estimate of about 10 pounds, and the tech at my LBS &quot;guesses&quot; that a standard 30 x 8 x 53 box weighs 2 pounds. For long distance shipping, that much of weight difference can save a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T16:11:27.847" Title="How much does a typical cardboard bike box weigh?" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-29T00:33:20.347" Score="8" ViewCount="11607" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier this month I had a issue with a broken axle.  It was the original that was sold with the bike and lasted around 5,000 miles.  I went to my LBS and bought a new axle (unbranded, labeled, etc, paid $13, came with cones, spacers, and hardware).  I did the install myself and had everything adjusted nicely.  The next time I rode it was on my commute to work, but I didn't get 4 miles into it when I found that I bent the axle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the wheel to the shop but they wouldn't do anything about it since I didn't have them do the work.  However, I figured this was a fluke and asked them for a new axle and to true the wheel.  Once again I did the install of the axle and only got 15 miles out of it this time before bending it.  Before I got home I felt the wheel get stiff, but it stayed true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is what will be a cause of bending 2 axles in 20 miles?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the guy at the shop said it was a cro-moly axle (while talking to another person today at the shop, these may not be), and he couldn't believe that I bent it.  If so, where would such an axle fall in the quality hierarchy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is my hub toast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the wheel was being repaired, I swapped to a new original wheel for about 2 weeks.  I have not had any issues with it, but I wanted to keep it as new as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading other questions I saw a comment that said not to use a hub where the bearing was catching.  I did have one in this wheel but I figured since it is a cheap wheel I would just burn it up and move on to a better one.  Besides, it has lasted 5k miles without issue to this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike in question is a 2008 Schwinn High Timber with Joytech freewheel hubs.  I do use a trailer with this bike using a Burley axle hitch.  While I had the hitch installed on both axles I bent, I did not have either trailer hooked up to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something I would like to note is that when I removed the first bent axle (axle #2) that the cones on it had a wavy bearing track.  I didn't think too much of it, and I put them on axle #3.  Only having a few miles on them shouldn't have made a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2014-08-30T04:14:45.543" LastActivityDate="2020-09-12T08:30:05.940" Title="Reoccurring Bent Axles, any reasons or upgrades?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24415" CreationDate="2014-08-29T00:52:28.583" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I'll give you an estimate on the weight of a cardboard box. Then, you can read the side notes at the end of this answer to see why the weight is a relatively irrelevant quantity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-4878/Corrugated-Boxes-200-Test/54-x-8-x-28-275-lb-FOL-Side-Loading-Corrugated-Boxes?pricode=WY558&amp;amp;gadtype=pla&amp;amp;id=72173714962&amp;amp;gclid=CPC_leCyt8ACFehj7AodggcA1Q&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; sells a bike box and lists the weight as 7.40 lbs. The rest of this answer gives you a way to estimate this, as well as tells you why this whole problem is irrelevant from a cost perspective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rcbc.ca/files/u3/aa_facts-cardboard.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;, the density of cardboard is approximately 30-90 kg/m^3 or 0.03-0.09 grams per cubic centimeter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, lets estimate the amount of cardboard in a box. Say each side of the box has thickness T centimeters, and the sides of the box are L,W,H in centimeters. Then, the volume of the cardboard in the box is 2*T*(L*W+L*H+W*H), so the mass of cardboard in the box is density*volume of cardboard or between 0.03*2*T*(L*W+L*H+W*H) and 0.09*2*T*(L*W+L*H+W*H) grams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, lets estimate the dimensions of a box to ship a bike. According to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/mountain-biking/173190-bike-box-dimensions-anyone.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt;, the typical bike box is about L=130 cm long, W=18 cm wide and H=79 cm height. For thickness, to make the numbers a bit easy, lets say the cardboard is T=1 cm thick (this is significantly thicker than most bike boxes I've seen). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plugging into the formula, we get a range of approximately 800-2500 grams for the box (1.75 to 5.5 pounds). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the thickness of the box is closer to half a centimeter (which would halve the estimate) and the density is probably on the higher end of the scale (but probably not 0.09 grams/cm^3). So, I'd guess the weight is closer to 3 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simple solution is to take a scale, and a bike box and weigh it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note 1: The dimensions from that thread are only slightly different from your box, and the values come out to be nearly the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note 2: With carriers like UPS and Fedex, the expense of a shipping bicycle is not primarily the weight, but the fact that a bike box has large dimensions, so it can count as an oversized package [and paying the LBS to pack it]. For small packages of the same weight, note that the cost of shipping will be significantly lower (go to the UPS shipping calculator and put in your source and destination with a small box, say, 10 in x 10 in x 10 in weighing 50 pounds versus a bike box weighing 50 pounds). UPS calls this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ups.com/content/us/en/resources/ship/packaging/dim_weight.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dimensional weight&lt;/a&gt;, so for your bike box, it will charge you assuming that your package weighs ~75 pounds even if your bike weighs 10 pounds packed. So, I guess you can fill your bike box with some rocks or something cause you're paying for 75 pounds even if you don't use it anyway!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-29T02:13:02.130" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T02:13:02.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2014-08-29T06:39:53.187" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some personal thoughts/opinions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're not riding much longer than an hour or so, you might not need much. Perhaps a sports/electrolyte drink that contains sugars will suffice and be convenient.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use mainly cheap gel bars for a sugar hit, but they get quite boring and eat away at your teeth. Flapjack, oats, etc are good for a bit of variety but perhaps more appropriate for longer rides as they release energy slower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cereal bars can be quite dry and difficult to get down especially if you're a bit dehydrated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something with caffeine may be of benefit (caffeine on its own doesn't have energy, but it can give you a boost). I'd drink some strong coffee before the ride. Caffeine has a half-life of approximately 5 to 6 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trial and error is key!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastEditorUserId="13582" LastEditDate="2014-08-29T14:41:53.543" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T14:41:53.543" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24372" CreationDate="2014-08-29T06:43:21.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a good article from a man who knows a thing or two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2010/08/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Coast or Pedal on a Downhill?, Joe Friel Aug-10&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key thing from the article is reference to a 50-40-30-20-10 rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coast (and focus on getting aero) at &gt;50km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal easy at &gt;40km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal steady at &gt;30km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal moderately hard at &gt;20km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedal hard at &gt;10km/h&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lends itself more to racing against the clock (e.g. Time Trials and Triathlon) rather than a road race where staying with the bunch is important for the drafting effect of riding behind someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above &quot;rule&quot; is down to the fact that the faster you go, wind resistance increases and more-and-more energy is required to increase your speed by a set increment. E.g. the difference in effort to ride at 20km/h compared to 10km/h is a lot less than, say, 40km/h compared to 30km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;'Drag (physics)' on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; if you want to read more: drag is proportional to the velocity multiplied by itself (squared).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastEditorUserId="13582" LastEditDate="2014-08-29T15:08:44.340" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T15:08:44.340" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21255" CreationDate="2014-08-29T07:06:16.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the brake pads and/or discs could be contaminated. Even the oil from your fingers can be enough to create a squeak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some disc brake cleaner, such as that made by Muc-off might help. Perhaps a change of pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/au/gear/article/workshop-step-by-step-guide-to-quiet-disc-braking-22829/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check out this article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T07:06:16.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23275" CreationDate="2014-08-29T07:17:41.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's some wattage, but lower than Coggan's charts for an international pro road racer (5.78w/kg+ for FTP), I guess due to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the fact that this is race data and not best efforts from testing/training;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and because perhaps it's less important for cyclo-cross riders as they don't tend to do as long climbs as you might expect in a Grand Tour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, I agree with the comment above: probably closer to an All-Rounder; maybe a hint of Pursuiter in there too. Would need data for 5s, 1min and 5min maximum best efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T07:17:41.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5319" CreationDate="2014-08-29T10:37:23.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just read your article on ceramic bearings and am forced to give you an unprofessional view point. Firstly i am an 80 year old bike rider who rides weekends with a younger group of 6o year old riders. If you are still with me , my riding consists of between 30 to 40 kilom each ride at a speed of between 25ks and 35ks . I find recitals about ceramics nearly always are about the cost and no advantage.The reality is that a person of my age keeps up with a fitter group[. While there may be a slight speed advantage what counts is that i am fitter at the end of the ride than i would be with steel bearings. People decry ceramics being used by young fit cyclist who in the same breath would argue that a few grams saved may.make...a lot of difference. I have two TREK roadbikes with ceramics and a CANNONDALE road bike with steelbearings and changing roadbikes on riding days shows a decided difference. Your comments almost suggest it would be nice if we could all drive a Mercedes if they were not so dear so a Ford will do.    *&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13584" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T10:37:23.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20890" CreationDate="2014-08-29T12:43:14.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I got a reply from Cube about this. They basically told me to get a new drop bar.. They just want to cover themselves in terms of the warranty I suppose, so fair enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the risk and bought &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cyclesuperstore.ie/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=47228&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. They worked like a charm. Maybe (just maybe) I had to clip them on closer together than I, initially, would have liked. But, I did my first Olympic triathlon at the weekend with them, they were great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10655" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T12:43:14.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24431" CreationDate="2014-08-29T15:59:57.203" Score="2" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on throwing a challenge to create a bamboo frame for a unicycle, but to declare a winner I shall test some endurance criteria. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame should be able to withstand this kind of tension:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/bgTCAmV4Wnc?start=196&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I don't know which tests I can set up to try the frames endurance repeatedly and reliably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think there is any low-tech test I can make to test this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot in advance,&#xA;Jaime&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13587" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T16:42:08.820" Title="How to test the endurance of a frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;unicycle&gt;&lt;bamboo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24430" CreationDate="2014-08-29T16:23:45.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the frames are being designed on a computer, CAD tools may help but these are high tech. Companies spend a lot of money on doing detailed analysis for durability and strength of frames. I don't know what design tools people did other than force diagrams and other mechanical engineering things before computers (which use a lot of finite element methods) in the bicycle industry, but a simple civil engineering stress visualization method was building models out of a photoelastic material and seeing where the stresses built up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/EFBe/frame_fatigue_test.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Several&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.renovobikes.com/testing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;articles&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/santa-cruz-bicycles-test-lab.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;have&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.efbe.de/pruefverfahren/enindex.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;been&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.efbe.de/pruefservicenew/ermuedung/enindex.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;written&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tomsarazac.com/tom/opinions/frame-test.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/thinking-and-processes/lab-vs-reality.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;doing&lt;/a&gt; (multiple links) tests for bicycles, normally with some applied stress then measuring deflection. You can try to mimic them on a unicycle to some extent, but they don't have all the same parts that a bicycle has, and testing for trick ability is even harder. They can also build a few frames and run them until they break in stress testing (which would be hard to do if people are building these bamboo unicycles by hand). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the low tech way to test this will likely be just taking the thing out for a spin (and likely getting injured [especially if the people making these frames don't have experience designing unicycle frames and/or don't understand the properties of bamboo  (for example, how do you join 2 bamboo pieces appropriately?)]). There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.erbacycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;companies&lt;/a&gt; which make &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bamboo_bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycles out of bamboo&lt;/a&gt;, so you may want to look up some bamboo bicycle builders and try to talk to them about it (since they're botique manufacturers, they will likely not have as much if any testing going on; however, they've likely trained as regular frame builders before so have some intuition on how to design the bikes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should add that there are likely legal liability issues which will come up in this challenge - everything stated in this post is at your own risk, obviously. I'd think its non-trivial to make half decent unicycle without having the ability to do tricks to begin with, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-08-29T16:42:08.820" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T16:42:08.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24433" CreationDate="2014-08-29T17:30:37.787" Score="3" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just been doing some hill repeats and killing the boredom I got thinking, what is the best position to be in when braking hard (emergency stop, coming downhill etc.)? Obviously you want to keep the back wheel from lifting off the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I could lean over the handlebars (stupid but its illustrative) sit in the middle of the saddle, sit on the back of the saddle, or hang off the back beyond the saddle...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the most effective way to transfer weight on to the back wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(On a road bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T17:37:57.007" Title="How to get weight over the back under hard braking" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;braking&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24432" CreationDate="2014-08-29T17:37:57.007" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hang your buttocks off the back of the saddle is the only appropriate answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see great evidence of this in cyclocross races when racers go from climbing to steep descents (in some cases) and go straight to the drops and hang their rear end off the back of the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a downhill rider doing an extreme example of exactly this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DIt29.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T17:37:57.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-29T19:03:28.460" Score="0" ViewCount="2788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace Shimano Mountain LX Biopace Chainrings with 48/38/28 110 bcd and am having difficulty finding replacement chainrings, particularly the center chainring 38T. It appears Mountain LX is rare and I would like to know what other Shimano (Deore) or other chainrings or complete cranksets are compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13588" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-08-29T23:04:33.870" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T15:17:20.960" Title="Replacement compatability for Shimano Mountain LX Chainring and or Crankset" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24434" CreationDate="2014-08-29T19:23:15.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, Biopace components haven't been made for years (and other non-round chainrings aren't the same (e.g. Sugino Cycloid, Osymmetric)) and they've become somewhat rare. However, you can sometimes find them on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/38-TOOTH-SHIMANO-BIOPACE-CRANKSET-CHAINRING-110-BCD-/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eBay&lt;/a&gt; (listing claims Biopace, but theres no picture). &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=63874&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Some&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-67.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;people&lt;/a&gt; have stuck normal chainrings on a biopace crankset though (just need to match the BCD and number of bolts), and this is a significantly cheaper option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for replacement cranksets, you have just a plain old JIS square taper bottom bracket. So if you wanted a new crankset, match it to that type of bottom bracket. They're still made at the mid-lower levels of components (e.g. Shimano Alivio M430). Or you could switch the BB with another of appropriate size and get some other crankset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T19:23:15.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-29T21:25:44.293" Score="7" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to build my own Lemond Revolution style turbo trainer (link below) could I use the air speed in meters/second^2 the rider is moving into as a good indicator of what type and size of fan to use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJimG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJimG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or put the other way around could I use the indicated airflow that is moving through the fan at a range of revolutions per minute to provide similar resistance to what is found outside, resistance increasing with the cube of speed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this information be enough to begin building, experimenting and testing fans for a diy turbo trainer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fan has an aero map which states its lb/min in airflow at a given rpm (which is within normal cadence of a geared bicycle) is this a good indicator of potential resistance that is will provide (once converted from statute to metric)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rfd7J.gif&quot; alt=&quot;lemond revolution resistance advert&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lemond revolution trainer link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://greglemond.com/#!/revolution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://greglemond.com/#!/revolution&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T02:28:58.453" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T01:55:04.703" Title="Accurately replicating the resistance felt whilst riding via a resistance fan diy turbo trainer" Tags="&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24437" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-08-29T21:34:02.487" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-08-29T21:34:02.487" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T21:34:02.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24438" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-08-29T21:34:02.487" Score="0" Body="Power meters and all related data analysis.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Power meters measure direct force applied to one of the pedals, crankarm, crankset, rear hub, or other methods.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;They use cadence in conjunction with the force to measure the power or wattage." OwnerUserId="10723" LastEditorUserId="10723" LastEditDate="2014-08-30T01:18:06.633" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T01:18:06.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24389" CreationDate="2014-08-29T21:46:44.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the tension adjusted all the way down they should clip out easily. Two things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the cleat tight on the shoe? If it can rotate at all, you won't be able to clip out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you rotating your foot outwards to unclip? When I first got my clipless I tried to rotate in, and that doesn't work too well. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T21:46:44.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-30T01:02:53.920" Score="2" ViewCount="1478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a vintage touring bike recently. It's steer tube badge says D-114 made in Japan. I can't find any info on it and was hoping someone may have some info on the brand or bike.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GaqdU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9LuAp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ti7j5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FW4nd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MVPpP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35Ioz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13591" LastEditorUserId="13591" LastEditDate="2014-08-30T02:21:50.360" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T06:43:00.830" Title="Vintage 70's Bike info?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24416" CreationDate="2014-08-30T07:15:43.510" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for the bent axles is primarily due to your riding a bike with a freewheel. Freewheels (as opposed to a freehub) have a length of unsupported axle on the drive side of the bike that is vulnerable to bending. That is the primary reason why freehubs were invented. As the bike industry moved more and more gear sprockets (6, 7, 8) this meant a wider cog and longer unsupported length of axle. It is amazing how many cheap modern bikes (Schwinn sold out their name for use on low quality bikes long long ago) are still using freewheels which are an obsolete technology at this point. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Improperly adjusted or worn bearings are not considered a major factor in having a bent axle unless the bearings are very destroyed and the wheel is not working normally. Bent axles are due to load. So, you using a heavy trailer and being a larger than average rider, the axle is more likely to bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a strong well build wheel with a freehub. If you want an axle of CrMo then make sure you are getting it. There are OK inexpensive wheels for $40 so at $15 per axle replacement (excluding labour) it really makes more sense to not be replacing axles. Joytech is a cheap hub. Buy a good quality wheel that is worth &gt;~$100 and you will save time and money in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious what you mean by &quot;bearing was catching...just burn it up&quot; That sounds like you may not be adjusting things properly. Maybe review some insructions on doing a hub overhaul or go down to your local recycle a bike shop for some hands on learning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also curious how you could tell specifically by the mile when your axle bent? Normally a bent axle is hard to notice unless the wheel is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that rear wheel axles even of freehubs can be hard to keep straight. My old parallax hub with an 8spd freehub would always have a slight bend when I took it off to examine it and this resulted in uneven bearing wear. Probably due to me carrying very heavy trailer loads, passengers etc. North American bikes are often designed for sport rather than long term utility so even a tall person may be outside of the design for the bike. My solution was to get an old new XTR titanium axle that was laying around in a parts bin at a shop I did business with. Since then my rear wheel hub has stayed well adjusted :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7645" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T07:15:43.510" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24434" CreationDate="2014-08-30T07:26:35.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot replace Biopace unless you find some antiques. Biopace ended 20 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other chainrings are all compatible if the BCD is correct. The only issue is the ramps or pins that are meant to improve shifting performance. The manufacturer will always tell you to match everything up exactly but that is their sales pitch. Realistically having something ramped on the middle ring is a good idea and maybe on the big ring too. Ramps on a granny (smallest) ring don't make any difference. If you are really worried about compatibility get something similar (XT, STX, Deore...) with ramps that is from Shimano and you will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any square taper crankset which allows clearance for the frame and similar chainline will work fine. Actually buying a complete crankset with all the rings included is a lot cheaper than buying individual rings. The extreme example is a low end shimano riveted crankset for less than $40 vs the typical budget of $1/tooth for chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7645" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T07:26:35.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-30T07:35:43.877" Score="2" ViewCount="14231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took out my wheel for a puncture and when the wheel went back on the bike the gears were out of line, a lot of skipping and jumping. What is the best way to get them back in alignment (must be possible at the road side)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a tip on how to reinsert the wheel so it stays in alignment? Or is it a case of getting the wheel back in and adjusting the derailleur to realign?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(On a road bike with tiagra rear d)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T12:26:49.033" Title="Realign the cassette gears after removing the rear wheel" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2737" CreationDate="2014-08-30T07:57:24.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lubricate everything, all moving parts of the calliper, inside the housing etc. Wipe excess off. Use a thin penetrating lubricant (tri-flo or similar, not WD40) Be very careful not to contaminate pads, rims or disc rotors though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once had a sticky cable disc brake calliper (BB7) which I thought had a weak spring. I was putting of the maintenance because I didn't want to get into the spring issue. Anyway I rode with a dragging brake for a long time. Then one day doing other maintenance I quickly oiled the calliper and it completely fixed the problem. An easy solution that I had put off for too long!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7645" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T07:57:24.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12392" CreationDate="2014-08-30T08:00:55.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slice it off with a sharp knife if it is really big because a file will take too long and sometimes the large mass of rubber gets stringy on the edge with a file. Then file the whole pad flat. Re-surfacing the pad is part of normal brake pad maintenance. You want to remove glazing, uneven wear, and debris. Pick out and deep metal chunks with a sharpened old metal spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7645" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T08:00:55.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10331" CreationDate="2014-08-30T08:07:21.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indefinitely. Do inspect them. Some poorly made ones can get hard or brittle. I've only seen than on mounted (unused) pads though, which are more subject to oxidation/sun/contamination etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7645" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T08:07:21.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24443" CreationDate="2014-08-30T08:13:22.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is good practice to shift to the smallest cog when removing and re-installing the rear wheel. This gets the derailleur out of the way and makes it easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the gears are not working now it may be the derailleur was bent when it was vulnerable with the wheel off. Your going to need to check that and check the shifting and limits in the normal way. See a how to tune your gears basic question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7645" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T08:13:22.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24443" CreationDate="2014-08-30T14:19:51.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, when removing a rear wheel, I shift to the small-small combination since this gives the most slack and gets the rear derailleur out the farthest. (Obviously, this doesn't matter for a front wheel). Then, when putting the wheel back on, put it on in the small-small combination and shift out of it when you've tightened the wheel down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to make sure your wheel is seated &lt;strong&gt;all the way&lt;/strong&gt; in the dropout. If you have horizontal dropouts, this means all the way back up to the little set screws which tell you how far back to put the wheel (you don't need to re-set the set screws). For vertical dropouts, this means all the way up in the dropout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wheel was in properly and the gears were aligned before removal from the dropout, they should be still aligned when you put the wheel back in. In the case that the wheel isn't aligned properly, either your derailleur took a hit at some point, the wheel/tire is somehow hitting the brakes, or most likely, you didn't put the wheel in the dropout properly. (I suppose frame damage is also a possibility, but this would have been something you noticed before removing the wheel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try re-seating the wheel in the dropout. If you're sure you've got it in the dropout correctly, follow the instructions on adjusting your rear derailleur &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T14:19:51.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24434" CreationDate="2014-08-30T15:17:20.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TA makes a 38t 110 bcd chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For whatever reason, it's generally easier to find odd size parts on the European Web sites. Wiggle is generally a good source. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/ta-110-pcd-zephyr-mtb-middle-chainring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.com/ta-110-pcd-zephyr-mtb-middle-chainring/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vuelta chainrings are generally more easily available in the USA, but aren't as nice as the TA ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycleroots.com/vuelta-chainring-38t-110bcd-6061-silver.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicycleroots.com/vuelta-chainring-38t-110bcd-6061-silver.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you swap the 38t for a 36t, then you should have no problem finding standard round replacement rings. Those old Deore cranks are pretty nice, just upgrade it&#xA;with a new set of rings. It's absolutely no problem to use 9spd chainrings on those cranks with 7 or 8 spd chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T15:17:20.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24455" CreationDate="2014-08-30T16:13:40.010" Score="4" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are two French in love with the Dutch people and culture. Each time we have the time we rush there. Rather than hitchhiking (as we used to), we plan to travel across the Netherlands by bike as it will be much easier to meet people. We plan to buy 2 cheap bikes somewhere there since renting them looks more expensive, and also it'll be less stressful and more relax (no fear to damage them, no renting delay, more freedom to go wherever and whenever we want to go... ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, we will hitchhike from France because we don't want to waste 15 days out of 25 just to go to the Netherlands or to come back (we live in French Brittany, Vannes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we can't take the bikes back we us (we will also come back by hitchhiking), we will leave them in the Netherlands. We are thinking of lock them somewhere, maybe in a small city for a year (or 6 months, we don't know yet) before the next trip... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is the question is: where can we lock a bike for such a period of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't want to put them in a place where they could bother people (such as in front of train station). We heard about the 100€ options to secure them for a year but since our bike won't cost more than 50€ (hopefully even less!), we are looking for free and safe options/advices. Would it be a good idea to park them somewhere in the North in a small city ? Less risk of theft ? But what about the police, would they allow it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice concerning these bike parking issue would be warmly appreciated !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13597" LastEditorUserId="13597" LastEditDate="2014-08-30T16:28:07.283" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T01:41:24.467" Title="Where to park a bike during a year for free ? (in the Netherlands?)" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24331" CreationDate="2014-08-30T16:42:21.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will get worse. Buying a used frame is risky, generally, even if there are no visible problems. It could be bent, which most people can't diagnose. Titanium and aluminium aren't good materials for a frame, in spite of widespread use nowadays. But they are cheap and sold for nearly the same price as a top steel frame would cost, which is much more difficult to make, in every aspect. I hope you did not buy that nonsense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13598" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2017-08-27T13:40:22.530" LastActivityDate="2017-08-27T13:40:22.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24452" CreationDate="2014-08-30T16:45:48.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably your best bet if you want to park them is to meet someone with a large shed who'll put the bikes up for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make the finance/convenience tradeoff I think selling the bikes after your stay and getting new ones when you return might be a better option, but I understand the convenience of having the same bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of several options that don't require you to find such a nice person but they all have their drawbacks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park them somewhere on the street. This would work for an EUR 50 bike, just fix them to something with a good lock somewhere out of the way. However, the dutch climate won't be nice to your bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park them in any public bike parking area near a big train station. Most of them have a roof these days, and they are free. However, in the bigger cities and all university towns you're not allowed to leave your bike for more than a few days at most, and this is actively policed. So chances are your bike will be removed under this rule. If this happens you have a few months to pick it up from the depot before they sell it off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Park them in a &quot;private&quot; bike parking area near a big office building. This might be a reasonable option if you are willing to do a bit of sneaking to get in. Most of these bike parking areas have room to spare, so two exta bikes won't bother anyone, and if you park far away from the office entrance no-one will notice the bikes standing there all the time. Downside is that these buildings are usually not in very central locations. You could even ask the concierge if he'll let you park the bikes for a few months (with the risk of him turning you down where he wouldn't have noticed the bikes if you hadn't asked).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases the property owner or the local city government is within its rights to just remove your bike if it is deemed to be in the way or a wreck, which is always a risk for a EUR 50,- bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T16:45:48.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-30T21:44:14.817" Score="0" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pictures of bike: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/brRgb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Id9TA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/Space_Scumbag/media/My%20Bike/P8290052_zps195adaa1.jpg.html?sort=3&amp;amp;o=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/Space_Scumbag/media/My%20Bike/P8290052_zps195adaa1.jpg.html?sort=3&amp;amp;o=2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've had this bike for many years now, and I'm finally selling it as I have another one which fits me better. But there's no trademarks on it and I have no idea who manufactured it. There used to be stickers on it which may have had the manufacturer's name on it, but they looked stupid so I took them off. The make would be useful as it would give me all the information I'll need to give when I sell it. Any help is much appreciated, thanks. The seat isn't original by the way. The old one was just plain black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13602" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-08-31T08:49:40.867" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T05:42:01.623" Title="Who Made my Bike?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24452" CreationDate="2014-08-31T05:47:04.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Join &lt;a href=&quot;http://WarmShowers.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://WarmShowers.org&lt;/a&gt;  I have seen many members offering a place to store a bike.  WarmShowers is also a good place for your other hobby, meeting people.  Also &lt;a href=&quot;http://BeWelcome.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://BeWelcome.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, buy them at a bike shop that will take care of them for you afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, go home on the train and take them with you.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=bikes+on+trains+in+france&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.google.com/search?q=bikes+on+trains+in+france&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13605" LastEditorUserId="13605" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T01:41:24.467" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T01:41:24.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24191" CreationDate="2014-08-31T12:09:03.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My existing rear derailleur (Shimano Alivio M410) was suitable to work with the largest 34T cog. The B-screw (angle adjustment) on the derailleur will need to be tweaked to prevent rubbing of the cassette/jockey wheel/chain. In my case the B-screw was turned almost all the way in, but it works great. The change between the 2nd-largest and the 'Mega' cog is actually smoother than I expected, despite the big jump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fairly small front chainrings, so the tensioning of the chain was not an issue. (I was fitting a new chain at the time anyway)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12861" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T12:09:03.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-31T13:28:05.840" Score="11" ViewCount="1251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a piece of software to conduct a local time-trial race. There will be some 50 riders: large enough to make the job of preparing race results with bare pen and paper rather hard and time consuming, but too small to use full-fledged race chips systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riders are going to start with one minute interval and on the finishing line there will be a man announcing time to the operator. So the operator will just have to enter the time of the rider to the program. The program should be able to produce the table of results on the fly as the riders cross the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that creating this kind of software is not that hard, but I was just hoping there are readily available freeware solutions that I could use for my event. Please let me know if you ever heard of any.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2036" LastEditorUserId="13614" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T07:54:37.497" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T12:38:54.930" Title="Software for time-trial race" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;software&gt;&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24389" CreationDate="2014-08-31T13:44:39.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent the last few days spraying lubricant on the pedals and clipping in and out of the pedals on a stationary bike whilst leaning against a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pedals did gradually become loose but were still too stiff for my liking. Nonetheless I ventured out to my local park wearing one normal trainer and one cycling shoe on the other foot. This allowed me to practice clipping in and out using one foot whilst the other foot wasn't clipped in which was very reassuring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did one lap of the park without any problems and then wore cycling shoes on both feet. I found that clipping out seemed easier on a slow moving bike than when I was clipping out on a stationary bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found that when my foot was at the bottom of the pedal stroke, it made it immensely easier to clip out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8590" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T13:44:39.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2014-08-31T14:41:27.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am two metres tall, 124 kgs (272 lbs) and ride a collection of road and mountain bikes. I am aggressive and fast and have never worried about the bike coping. I ride cobblestones and speed over driveway lips, tram and rail tracks and the like. My current fave bike is a cheap factory excess frame I found on eBay and equipped with a decade old collection of parts of a frame I did manage to break after 10 years of hard riding. .. You might need to get decent (that does not mean expensive) wheels. But I would likely replace the factory tires for something with a lower profile, slimmer (yes, slimmer) and faster, if you are mostly riding on pavement. Or relax and just wait until the wheels need replacing. They will not collapse into dust. The rims will get flattened, spokes break... You will live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T14:41:27.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24460" CreationDate="2014-08-31T14:47:25.937" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will run in python (only 3.X, not 2.7), a free to install programming language. Simply save the following as a file ending &lt;code&gt;.py&lt;/code&gt; - e.g. &lt;code&gt;timetrials.py&lt;/code&gt;. Then open IDLE3 (start menu), and open the file (&lt;kbd&gt;Ctrl&lt;/kbd&gt;+&lt;kbd&gt;O&lt;/kbd&gt;). Finally, press &lt;kbd&gt;F5&lt;/kbd&gt; to start it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import datetime&#xA;from operator import itemgetter&#xA;&#xA;def get_int_input(prompt, min_=0, max_=None):&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;Get a valid integer input.&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    while True:&#xA;        try:&#xA;            i = int(input(prompt))&#xA;        except ValueError:&#xA;            print(&quot;Please enter an integer.&quot;)&#xA;        else:&#xA;            if min_ is not None and i &amp;lt; min_:&#xA;                print(&quot;Must be at least {0}.&quot;.format(min_))&#xA;                continue&#xA;            elif max_ is not None and i &amp;gt; max_:&#xA;                print(&quot;Must be at most {0}.&quot;.format(max_))&#xA;                continue&#xA;            return i&#xA;&#xA;def get_time():&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;&quot;Get a time input as a datetime.time object.&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    h = get_int_input(&quot;Hours (0-23): &quot;, max_=23)&#xA;    m = get_int_input(&quot;Minutes (0-59): &quot;, max_=59)&#xA;    s = get_int_input(&quot;Seconds (0-59): &quot;, max_=59)&#xA;    ms = get_int_input(&quot;Milliseconds (0-999): &quot;, max_=999)&#xA;    return datetime.time(h, m, s, ms*1000)&#xA;&#xA;def get_results(competitors):&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;Get a dict of finishing times for all competitors.&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    results = {}&#xA;    for _ in range(competitors):&#xA;        while True:&#xA;            competitor = get_int_input(&quot;Enter competitor number: &quot;, min_=1, max_=competitors+1)&#xA;            if competitor not in results:&#xA;                results[competitor] = get_time()&#xA;                break&#xA;            print(&quot;Time already entered.&quot;)&#xA;        print_results(results)&#xA;    return results&#xA;&#xA;def print_results(results):&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;Display the race results in a table, fastest first.&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    linet = '┌' + &quot;─&quot; * 12 + '┬' + '─' * 17 + '┐'&#xA;    linec = '├' + &quot;─&quot; * 12 + '┼' + '─' * 17 + '┤'&#xA;    lineb = '└' + &quot;─&quot; * 12 + '┴' + '─' * 17 + '┘'&#xA;    print(linet)&#xA;    print(&quot;│ Competitor │ Time (H:M:S)    │&quot;)&#xA;    for n, t in sorted(results.items(), key=itemgetter(1)):&#xA;        print(linec)&#xA;        print(&quot;│ {0:&amp;lt;10d} │ {1!s:&amp;lt;15} │&quot;.format(n, t))&#xA;    print(lineb)&#xA;&#xA;def race():&#xA;    &quot;&quot;&quot;Handle race times for a user-specified number of competitors.&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    n = get_int_input(&quot;Enter number of competitors (2-): &quot;, min_=2)&#xA;    results = get_results(n)&#xA;&#xA;if __name__ == &quot;__main__&quot;:&#xA;    race()&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When everyone has finished, it will look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;┌──────────────┬───────────────┐  &#xA;│  Con Num     │ Time H:M:S    │  &#xA;├──────────────┼───────────────┤  &#xA;│  1           │ 5:4:3.2       │  &#xA;├──────────────┼───────────────┤  &#xA;│  2           │ 8:7:6.5       │  &#xA;├──────────────┼───────────────┤  &#xA;│  3           │ 2:2:2.2       │  &#xA;└──────────────┴───────────────┘  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13492" LastEditorUserId="13492" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T15:09:52.440" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T15:09:52.440" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24532" CreationDate="2014-08-31T15:42:39.443" Score="0" ViewCount="2080" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pictured, after knocking over the bike I've broken one of the plastic surrounds where the gear cable enters the front derailleur shifter. Shifting between the lower two chainrings still works, but when trying to shift to the outer ring, the cable tension is sufficient to pull the cable into the crack/gap and prevent the shift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to repair this, or have I written off an entire set of STI shifters? Do Shimano sell spare parts for their STI levers? (If not I'm thinking of going to bar-end shifters if STIs are so fragile!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y4EGq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12861" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T07:18:53.373" Title="Fixing broken STI shifters - plastic gear cable surround" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-31T18:24:12.090" Score="0" ViewCount="2257" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week my chainset was replaced (in warranty) and I just found out that the chainset is 10 speed (FSA Vero) but my rear cassette (+Claris gears and shifters) is 8 speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if I will be fine. The bike is Carerra TDF Limited Edition 2012 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13609" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T19:09:17.383" Title="Halfords just replaced my chainset and it is a 10 speed one, but my cassette is 8 speed. Am I ok?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24470" CreationDate="2014-08-31T19:23:32.013" Score="3" ViewCount="4961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've browsed several closely related questions already, but haven't found one quite like my issue yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the following rack, a Topeak Tourist for Disc Brake bikes (with a matching Topeak trunk bag with panniers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000ZKHN6Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZKHN6Y/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1aqQw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1aqQw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dD8IL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dD8IL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I have a 2014 Diamondback Century Sport Disc. It has 700c tires, which the reviews for the above rack suggested would be fine. Anyway, clearance isn't the issue at hand. Here's some pictures of the bike - hopefully they're helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/O7dfS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/O7dfS&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;&amp;lt;-- More pictures of bike!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GRONc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GRONc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Best single pic of dropouts from imgur gallery&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up until now I've been using a hybrid bike with no panniers... so I have next to no familiarity with racks. I've looked into the issue, but feel increasingly suspicious about whether there's any way to mount these. If I can I'd be most pleased, although I'd need the method pointed out (and I've experimented; for example, you notice the two bolts above the quick-release lever in the last picture? those are too large to work double duty for the rack; they don't fit the thing) - but if not:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've heard stuff about p-clips (like Halfords 19mm Luggage P Clips - again, no link). I'm not sure what problem they exist to resolve; it looks like it's mine, but - there's always two different places to attach a rack (triangles and all that), plus more than that in different styles of rack (some attach to a seat post, apparently) and I'm not entirely sure if these would help my issue or the one I'm not having.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I heard a recommendation for the &quot;Tubus Adapter Set for Quick Release Axle Mounting.&quot; Ignoring quality concerns (I can make a judgement call), would that be a good purchase for me in that it might resolve my problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same for the &quot;Tubus Clamp Set - Rack Eyes for Seat Stay Mounting,&quot; which is apparently related to p-clips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13610" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T08:53:33.830" LastActivityDate="2016-12-18T08:53:33.830" Title="How do I mount this Topeak rack onto this road bike with disc brakes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;topeak&gt;&lt;diamondback&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24465" CreationDate="2014-08-31T20:03:49.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The distinction of speeds especially in the front is primarily for marketing. You're fine with this '10 speed crankset'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T20:03:49.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-31T20:52:48.397" Score="7" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to decide on what would be the best option for me for my first electric bike. I need a way to get around, and as I live on a hill where I will have to manage a fairly steep incline coming and going I am wondering what kind of bike I should get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a bike on Craigslist right now with a 36V 12amp battery and 500-750Watt motor, but as it is a Huffy bike I am pretty sure it is a kit build. They are asking 700. -- My other option is the Kickstarter kit by Barak Electric (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1354698863/barak-electric-bicycle-conversion-kit-electrify-yo&quot;&gt;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1354698863/barak-electric-bicycle-conversion-kit-electrify-yo&lt;/a&gt;) that has a 500 watt motor and 36V 10amph battery, and as I already have a mountain bike laying around I could install it myself and it would cost 655. I have no idea what they would be charging in a couple years when the Lithium batteries die for replacements, but I'm sure I could figure that out then. I don't have a ton of money, so going to a bike shop isn't really an option even though I would love the security of being able to return it if it doesn't work. I was looking into the Currie Electric bikes as they seem quite reasonable, but it doesn't look as though they will have enough power to get me anywhere with their small wattage and SLA batteries (not to mention to upgrade to Lithium with Currie is basically the price of the bike!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13611" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T11:54:30.547" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T11:54:30.547" Title="What are the advantages of a building an electric bike from a kit vs. prebuilt" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;motor&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24465" CreationDate="2014-08-31T22:51:11.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly, the different designations are there to encourage whole component group sales. As a general rule (not an absolute one), you can mix and match derailleurs and chainrings with other parts, but only with a one speed difference and with the other parts being the lesser speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, 8 speed chain, shifter, and cassette (these three must match except for 6-8 speeds) are ok with 9 speed elsewhere, but not 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realize that there is usually a difference in chain width, so there are potential exceptions to this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13613" LastEditorUserId="13613" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T19:09:17.383" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T19:09:17.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24466" CreationDate="2014-09-01T01:57:31.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the seat stay mounts on the frame (those are the two thin tubes that go from the rear wheel drop outs to the top of the seat tube). What you need is mounts on the rear wheel drop outs. Typically, they are part of the dropout and/or frame. In your case, you have none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the P-Clips and Tubus Clamps will not be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Tubus Adapter Set for Quick Release Axle Mounting should solve your problem. It is built for a Tubus rack which has two mounting holes at the bottom that are meant to be used simultaneously, thus the two slots. You can choose which one is appropriate once you loosely install the rack and check how level the top is. Installation instructions and a drawing to go with it can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tubus.com/product.php?xn=33&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should say I have not done this actual installation myself, but I see no obvious reason why this would affect anything else. There are comments from people that have used this with discs and there's a spacer to keep the mounting plate away from the frame, so you should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only concern I have is there seems to be nothing to prohibit the mounting plate from rotating fore or aft. You may want to invest in a couple lock washers and a proportionally longer quick release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13613" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T01:57:31.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24468" CreationDate="2014-09-01T04:00:16.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried two ebikes before and to be perfectly honest - they are very poor uphill - almost any hill. The motors are too weak in my view and here the laws won't allow you to ride a bicycle with a motor that has more than 200 watts of power without a motorbikes license (Australia - except QLD).&#xA;The best motorised bikes I think are the petrol ones such as the common Moped. Much more power and you hardly have to provide a down pedal to push it along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T04:00:16.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24466" CreationDate="2014-09-01T06:52:25.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will probably have to go with a seat post beam rack option if you want to stick with the Topeak setup (Topeak MTX is a great setup, my family uses it for commuting and shopping).  This will serve you well for lighter loads, and you can move that Tourist rack to the hybrid for the more serious tasks and hauling.  All the disk option of the rack does is provide a spacer so the rack will clear disk brake calipers.  It will work with a none-disc bike, it would probably work better.  My cables and fender stays get in the way of my rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to go that way then looks like you are stuck with p-clamps but I can't speak to how well (or if even) they will work on the bottom.  The Tubus option does not look like a fun option to me.  Every time you have a flat (and you will with a road bike) you will have to unload the rack (which isn't hard with the MTX, I have to do it with my mountain commuter setup anyways), then completely undo the skewer to get the wheel off (so much for quick release).  While the wheel is off there is nothing holding the rack in place and it is flopping around.  As somebody else pointed out, who knows if that will keep the eyelets in the same place while on the go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T06:52:25.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24476" CreationDate="2014-09-01T09:31:55.113" Score="3" ViewCount="2271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to note at first that I'm new to road cycling. I cycled mostly as a commuter before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into upgrading my wheelset. I read some very good threads here on choosing the right wheelset and I got more or less clear idea on how to choose the rim depth. But one thing still remains unclear to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that deeper the rim more aerodynamic advantage you get. But at the same time you can be blown off your path with a decent blow of a cross wind. What if I use 38mm (or less) deep rim for a steering (front) wheel and 60mm (or even more) for a rear wheel. Apparently I could preserve bike control abilities and gain additional aerodynamics. Looks like a perfect win win solution. But why wheel manufacturers never sell this kind of wheelsets then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you please explain what is good about this combinations and what is not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a good day!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T14:34:33.273" Title="38mm Front 60mm Rear Clinchers Pros and Cons" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-01T10:26:22.227" Score="1" ViewCount="24508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a 'Deore' equipped mountain bike for 3-4 months now. However, there is grinding noise from the area of the cranks and I suspect the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a local MTB forum I heard that Deore BB's last exactly that long. So I am worried about replacing the part with an exact duplicate (for fear of short service life).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do more expensive Shimano groupsets use the exact same BB or is it different for each? Do they last longer? Is it normal for a Deore BB to fail after such a short time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T14:33:29.927" LastActivityDate="2017-10-22T18:39:03.290" Title="What are my options for replacing a Shimano Hollowtech II BB?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24474" CreationDate="2014-09-01T13:43:13.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say you've been unlucky to have it fail (if it is definitely the BB that is the issue) in a short space of time. I'd ask for it to be replaced under warranty if it's only a few months old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More or less each groupset has it's own BB. You can get higher-end BBs (XT, XTR). Reality is, they don't do much but if you're unlucky and get a bad one then they'll creak, grind, clunk etc and make you aware that's something's not well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to other parts of a groupset, they're one of the cheaper parts and straightforward to replace, particularly the Hollowtech II. The more expensive models are typically a bit lighter and have a different ball-bearing design/material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had my Stumpjumper FSR for six years now and I've replaced the BB twice. The XT model has worked well for me. I've ridden in a very wet and muddy England, Wales and Scotland; and this BB has met the task admirably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T13:43:13.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24473" CreationDate="2014-09-01T14:01:07.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry too much about crosswinds with 60mm depth. Unless you are a very light rider or live somewhere really windy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each wheelset handles crosswinds slightly different due to their shape/profile. So it's worth reading the reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to bare in mind is what kind of riding you do and how fast you ride:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you ride in a bunch and shelter behind people you probably won't get much benefit. Lighter wheels rather than aero might be the way to go in order to accelerate out of corners and respond to surges.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you ride alone or do a lot of time trials riding at 30kmh+ then you should benefit more from the aero aspect of such wheels. If you ride slower than this then the case for an aero wheelset will be less as drag is proportional to velocity squared.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do look (and quite often sound) the business in my opinion. This is probably a significant factor for most people buying a set (it was for me) of aero wheels! I've since converted back to more regular rim depths as I'm not sure I got the benefit out of the aero-ness for the additional weight and cost. (I used to do quite a bit of TT and triathlon, nowadays I do more hills and ride in bunches much more often.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a personal thing but I think different sized wheels look odd. Other than that, I can't really think of many downsides to mixing rim depths. You're obviously getting less aero enhancement from your front wheel, which is the point, and your front wheel does cut through the wind in front of you. That, and that it might be more expensive buying two wheels in different sizes than a matching wheelset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is generally thought to be true that you can get away with a deeper section wheel on the rear as that's where a lot of your weight is but I think typically deeper section than 60mm - I'm thinking of triathletes with a 1080 on the front and a disc wheel on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastEditorUserId="13582" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T14:34:33.273" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T14:34:33.273" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24465" CreationDate="2014-09-01T17:08:00.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience this is a non-issue. The only difference between 8,9,10 speed chains is the exterior width not the interior. That matters a lot on the rear cassette, but not much if at all on the front. From this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17064/what-are-the-widths-of-shimano-8-9-and-10-speed-cassettes&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; the difference in the exterior width of 8spd chain vs 10 spd is 0.9mm. On the front that just doesn't make any signficant difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a triple crankset and really short chainstays, you might run into some issues, but with a double and your bike, it should just work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say take the bike for a test ride and if you're happy with the way the front derailler shifts and it is capable of cross-chaining then I wouldn't worry about it. At this point insisting on an 8spd replacement will only get you a very low quality crankset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T17:08:00.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24460" CreationDate="2014-09-01T17:51:58.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option is &lt;a href=&quot;http://racesplitter.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RaceSplitter&lt;/a&gt;. This is an iOS app, costs $35. You will need a suitable iPad, iPhone or iPod Touch to run it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can enter a start list in advance. Then during the race, you just have to enter the rider number as they cross the finish line, and it will record their time. You can then publish the results on the website, and export to Excel etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not tried this myself, but I have seen it in use at a few local races. It seems to work fine for timing, and they have got the results online shortly after the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T17:51:58.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12392" CreationDate="2014-09-01T21:17:56.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be inclined to use a coarse wheel on a dremel tool.  Brace either the tool or the work (in this case the work, i.e. the brake pad, being small, might be easier to brace).  Use consistent pressure to avoid undulation.  A few passes should do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13621" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T21:17:56.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5267" CreationDate="2014-09-02T02:20:07.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extension levers are great for casual riding, enjoying the views and at moderate speed. The brake cable needs to be adjusted well to provide good braking with extension levers. Old,stretched cables or sloppy adjustment can result in the extension lever hitting the handle bar before sufficient taughtness of the cable is achieved; thus the term &quot;suicide levers&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13626" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T02:20:07.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24380" CreationDate="2014-09-02T03:43:30.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that spokes are installed correctly, it might simply be that the axle is not centered. i.e. you under tightened the spokes on the side of the rim you built causing spokes to poke out the rim on the other side.  it is important to evenly distribute mounted spokes around the rim when building a rim.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13627" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T03:43:30.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23884" CreationDate="2014-09-02T03:49:22.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had this happen due to a worn rear derailleur spring.  the rear derailleur isn't able to take up the slack fast enough.  also check your chain line, bent rear derailleur hanger, front derailleur cage alignment.  see if you can fit a chain catcher on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13627" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T03:49:22.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24468" CreationDate="2014-09-02T04:30:21.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am coming at this from the perspective of converting a bike I have, in my case my &lt;a href=&quot;http://aushiker.com/bacchetta-giro-20-2008-an-owners-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bacchetta Giro 20 ATT recumbent bike&lt;/a&gt; [link to my blog documenting my build experience] but before I decided to go down this path I did look at off the shelf e-bikes and for me I couldn't find a reasonably specified [in terms of bicycle components] e-bike at a reasonable or comparable price so as I had the existing bike I decided to go the conversion path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience which was more involved because of the recumbent, if I was considering doing this again I would look for a suitable source bike [either second hand or new with a 68 mm bottom bracket and space to take a frame battery] and then consider installing a Bafang BBS02 mid-drive [750 watts] with a 48V battery.  Installation is generally pretty straight forward and really quite quick, the kit is not to badly priced and the motor by all reports is a good performer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to your Craiglist bike, I wouldn't be considering a 36V battery to power a 750 watt motor as being an ideal option. From what I understand 48V is a better option with the more powerful motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://endless-sphere.com/forums/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Endless-Sphere&lt;/a&gt; whilst pretty full-on is worth a visit to get some idea about conversion options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12823" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T04:30:21.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30347" CreationDate="2014-09-02T06:23:25.027" Score="2" ViewCount="3086" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at these to bikes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bikes/road/awol/awol-elite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AWOL Elite&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bikes/road/awol/awol-comp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AWOL Comp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the specs I can't decifer though if the frame material and/or alloy is the same on the two bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the frames differ in other ways, but I won't need other drive trains, so I just want to know I can just as well buy the cheaper Elite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13629" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T09:41:58.653" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T19:15:04.620" Title="Is the frame material of Specialized AWOL Comp and Elite the same?" Tags="&lt;steel&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24497" CreationDate="2014-09-02T06:25:34.593" Score="3" ViewCount="2489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried everything, from brute force, WD40 overnight, heat from a gas torch (trying not to damage the carbon crank itself), to using an extended arm for extra force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing will remove this darn pedal! The 8mm hex hole is now slipping so there is no more grip. Even the alloy wrench started to bend!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, here is the low down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colnago C40 frame with Campagnolo Record Ultra Torque carbon cranks. Left pedal comes off easy, but the right drive pedal is fooked! Both pedals are LOOK Classics. Both were put on 2 years ago with grease, so they should have been easy to unwind. I suspect I annoyed someone on the bunch races and he went over and over tightened the pedal in vengeance! Bastard! I have an idea who it was too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the question is - how do I kill it!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking nice clean fine metal blade on a hack-saw, cut pedal off, then drill middle outwards and hopefully it will unscrew itself without unscrewing the thread attached to the crank!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T13:14:13.823" Title="How to destroy a LOOK pedal as it won't come off anyway" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24485" CreationDate="2014-09-02T07:25:23.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the pedals have bonded to the thread in the cranks, a longer lever is usually the way. As that seems to have failed, I'd get the cranks off, pop them in a vice and drill the cranks out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T07:25:23.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-02T09:26:33.860" Score="22" ViewCount="20193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a 30 year old male looking to purchase my first non-department store bike. I haven't biked in more than a couple years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My use-case is 90% asphalt (inner-city, occasional low-speed highway) and ~10% trail. Trails would typically be flat, straight, with few serious bumps. The bike could see &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; occasional heavier use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen several &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/hybrid-bicycles/791079-hybrid-vs-comfort-giant-cypress-sedona.html&quot;&gt;arguments&lt;/a&gt; against the use of front suspension forks on Hybrid bikes in the $0-$500 range, with arguments levied against them including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They lack lock-out at this price point, making city/uphill travel more difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They add weight to the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They limit speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They require maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its another moving part that could fail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They're ultimately unnecessary for this use-case.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these arguments, speed is probably the one that I can most easily disregard, as I am not looking for high top-end speed. On the other hand, if a suspension fork &lt;em&gt;at worst&lt;/em&gt; won't hinder me, I would see no real point in avoiding purchasing one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13631" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T03:05:33.657" Title="Is front-suspension a false-economy for cheaper bikes?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24488" CreationDate="2014-09-02T09:40:00.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically forks on a cheap bike will be undamped, heavy and in general not terribly efficient. All bike components can break so I wouldn't just assume because it's expensive it will last. For occasional offroad use, I'd get something with a rigid fork because (as arne mentioned), the other parts are likely to be better but also because the rigid fork will be lighter than the suspension fork. That said, they also won't be as easy to find as most shops will sell less of them therefore are less likely to stock them as most people assume suspension  = better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that's just my opinion. If I were you I'd take a few test rides and see what feels right to you. This last sentence is my real answer ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T09:40:00.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-02T12:33:25.517" Score="2" ViewCount="7992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a used 2011 trek 1.2 compact road bike with a stiff Sora FD-3400 double front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifter seems very stiff, and when I shift above the second index (trim or third) by accident it gets stuck on the big chainset ring and then it takes a huge amount of force to release it or even impossible and I have to release the shifter cable from the derailleur. As I understand I should set the top limit so it won't go over the second index right? But even if I shift to the second index and try to lower to the first it takes some heavy force &#xA;and there is a loud clank when it does get released. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think its the derailleur because when I detached the derailleur, pulling the cable in the housing seems smooth, and the shifter has good and smooth pull and release for all its indexes and trims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a video of me pulling hard on the cable &#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/Cuz3IboEcrU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my video of how hard it is to move: &#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/lNzRzXkV9p8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to what I see here at 1:34 mark:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/lxV_vKlgolc#t=94?start=94&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when it does shift this is the sound it does at the end of this video (not my video) &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/HX6O3lXjwPI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suspect the previous owner had something to do with it, since there is a little dent under where the derailleur clips shown here:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/aI566tN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right thinking its the derailleur and should replace it? What else can it be that  I should check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13634" LastEditorUserId="13634" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T14:19:45.423" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T16:52:33.833" Title="Stuck and stiff sora front derailleur" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24488" CreationDate="2014-09-02T13:07:39.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what you're talking about I would avoid front suspension, partly because you don't need it however good it might be (and there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a downside IMO) and partly because nothing you'd get at that price would be very good anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obvious downsides of unnecessary suspension are weight, money that's gone into it that could have gone into something more beneficial on the bike, and more stuff to go wrong. Maybe less obvious is some sponginess (even if you had a fork with a lockout) which means that some of the energy you are putting in is going into compressing the fork instead of moving you forward. Obviously how much this last bit bothers you would be a personal thing though!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5477" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T13:07:39.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24494" CreationDate="2014-09-02T13:33:16.270" Score="2" ViewCount="1269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my chain and cassette and I am not sure what &quot;level&quot; I need to pick? I have SRAM RED and have never replaced my cassette or chain (Two years) I had brought my bike in for a tune up and they recommended that I do it. I have chosen the SRAM PG-1070 (11-28) but I am not how to pick a chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition there are chains and cassettes that cost in excess of $300? Why would I need a $300 chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T13:50:57.643" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T13:57:28.627" Title="New Chain and Cassette - If I am not racing does it matter?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24488" CreationDate="2014-09-02T13:43:49.643" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Benefits of suspension forks (city/gravel road use):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove chatter from bumpy roads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the jar out of major bumps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better traction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawbacks of suspension forks: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Entire bike is heavier, leading to a less agile bike.  A bike with suspension (all else being equal) will hit more holes and hit them harder.  It will also climb like a pig and accelerate poorly.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will learn much better technique when riding without suspension.  Things like hoping curbs and avoiding potholes become more important but also easier.  The bike will give you clearer feedback.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the entire bike feel spongy and sap your energy.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspension dives under braking, making the bike perform as if it had a steeper head tube.  This causes more twitchy handling at a poor time.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On cheaper models, behaves more like a pogo stick that bounces.  This may actually make bumps more extreme.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May not be adjusted to your weight.  If you are lighter, it will act very much like a rigid fork.  If you are heavier, it will be permanently compressed and not doing you any favours.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Service - City bikes can get many hours on them between service.  Some forks require servicing every 100 hours of riding.  The cheap forks that will come on a cheaper bike may not require this level of service (many are not serviceable) but still something to consider.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simplicity.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a suspension fork you risk: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paying more for your entire bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trading better components for cheaper ones to offset the suspension cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having a substantially heavier bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting wider tires on a bike, or buying a bike that can accommodate wider tires is in my opinion always a better option (for a city bike).  This allows you to adapt your bike to different conditions and change it cheaply when you want to.  It is possible to remove a suspension fork but that is difficult/expensive.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2568/replacing-suspension-with-a-solid-fork&quot;&gt;See this question I asked about swapping out a suspension fork.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T01:48:24.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24492" CreationDate="2014-09-02T13:51:16.580" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would you need chains and cassettes that cost in excess of 300 dollars? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You're a professionally sponsored racer, money is no object and you want to cut every gram of weight possible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have way too much money (generally, people who buy top end equipment fall into this group).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It looks cool among a certain crowd.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In picking your cassette, I'm assuming that (a) it is the right number of speeds for your shifter and (b) your derailleur has enough capacity to use lowest gear. If this is the same sized cassette as you had before, this should be satisfied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PG-1070 is a 10 speed cassette, so you just need a SRAM 10 speed chain (PC 1031, PC 1051, PC 1071, PC 1091, PC 1091R) [KMC also makes some SRAM compatible 10 speed chains if you choose to go that route, but the SRAM chains are reasonably priced and might work a bit more smoothly, so I don't see a point in going non-SRAM.] &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differences in chains are highlighted on their product pages, usually some of the metals used on some of the plates or a bit of weight. They may also shape the plates &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; differently to aide shifting performance. SRAM recommends the PC 1091 or PC 1091R for Red group use, but you can use the others as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the differences are minor if existing other than a bit of weight in the cassettes and chains, but manufacturers suppose that people who buy expensive parts in the beginning will replace them with just as expensive parts further down the line (see the &quot;looks cool&quot; point above). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T13:57:28.627" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T13:57:28.627" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24488" CreationDate="2014-09-02T13:56:42.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would view front suspension as a nice comfort option for your use-case, particularly in cities with speed bumps, potholes etc. Fully rigid frames, particularly aluminum ones which is what you'd likely get in your price range can be pretty unforgiving and while fat tyres help a bit, front suspension makes a bigger difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you don't plan to do serious off-road riding I wouldn't say that you should avoid front suspension bikes like the plague but you definitely don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; it certainly shouldn't sacrifice other things like proper gear controls to get it (avoid grip-shifters like the plague instead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget that second hand hard-tail XC mountain bikes are just a tyre swap away from becoming decent hybrids which is what I would recommend for under $500&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do when trying to choose a new bike is to test ride as many as you can and see which ones you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11200" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T13:56:42.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24488" CreationDate="2014-09-02T14:32:21.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some points that have not come up &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think riding a non-suspension bike is more fun&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is you and the road&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the trails you need to pick a line and use technique&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most tricks are easier on a non-suspension&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You have something solid to push off from and lighter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hop both wheels up a curb is easier on a non-suspension &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;So on the ruff stuff you are a little slower fixed. But you are going slower and fall softer.  You are learning technique.  And you are faster when it is not ruff.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for comfort I don't think a cheap shock is not more comfortable on the road. &#xA;On a smooth road they just absorb part of the pedal action and to me the bounce is annoying. &#xA;I will take a size bigger tire at a lower pressure with carbon fiber over a shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even on pure trail I went from an old suspension fork to a carbon fiber and tubeless. &#xA;Went a size up on tires and lower pressure. &#xA;I like that set up better than the old suspension fork. &#xA;I could have spent that same money on a nice fork but there are very very few times on the trail I would rather have suspension and never on the street. &#xA;For sure I have learned more technique by riding rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T14:32:21.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24485" CreationDate="2014-09-02T15:06:25.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heating the pedal is not going to help here.  Cool the pedal might.  But if the hex is stripped too late.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench over WD40 for this. &#xA;I would have soaked it two days in penetrating oil before I went brute force.&#xA;The risk of brute force is you that you strip out the crank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a drill press as it is really hard to center by hand. &#xA;If you get the bit big enough it will fracture the pedal axle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But you don't want the bit big enough to scar the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would see if you can get the pedal part of the pedal off and have enough of the axle to grab on to with a pipe wrench.  Soak it for 2 days in penetrating oil before you go at it with a pipe wrench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wHayN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;look axle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T17:41:15.350" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T17:41:15.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24346" CreationDate="2014-09-02T16:43:24.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a new hangar in place, and it did not fix the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking a closer look at things, it appears that this &quot;tandem hub&quot; is a standard 135mm hub with spacers to widen it out to 145mm.  The hub is old and worn and one of the cones is bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I serviced the hub to the best of my ability.  I can't identify the hub to replace the cone.  After putting everything back together, the hangar/frame/derailleur still bent inward, but only about half as much as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a washer on the non-drive side of the hub to space it a little more.  This appears to have fixed it.  It'll take a few more miles to tell.  A new wheel is in my future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T16:43:24.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24460" CreationDate="2014-09-03T02:50:11.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've used an app for android phones made by Liuto. It was great, easy to learn/use and cheap --only $1.11. Basically, when each rider goes off by start number, you tap their corresponding number on their return and the calculation of their time versus overall elapsed time is complete. Snap!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13644" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T02:50:11.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-03T03:37:11.660" Score="1" ViewCount="10476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in need of replacement tires, and am a bit lost as to what the minimum width tire is for my wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring the wheel gives a rim width of around 1&quot;.  I know the tire has to be wider than the rim. Looking on the rim, there's a sticker that says 26&quot; x 1.5&quot;...  does that mean the 1.5&quot; is the minumum tire width?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/cKwu7Xk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/cKwu7Xk&lt;/a&gt; &amp;lt;-  pic of said rim with ruler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13559" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T02:39:51.193" Title="Minimum width tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24501" CreationDate="2014-09-03T04:31:35.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like the rim is a 559...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tires/559.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown / Harris Cyclery&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your tire size is expressed as &quot;26 x 1.25&quot; or &quot;26 x 1.50&quot; or &quot;26 x 1.75&quot; or &quot;26 x 1.95&quot; or &quot;26 x 2.1&quot; or &quot;26 x 2.125&quot; or &quot;26 x &quot; any other decimal number, 559 mm is the size you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pretty much any 559 mm tire will work on any 559 mm rim&lt;/strong&gt;, but it is best to avoid using very narrow tires on very wide rims or vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to be commuting then I'd go narrower with higher pressure. Vice-versa for mountain biking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastEditorUserId="13582" LastEditDate="2014-09-04T02:39:51.193" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T02:39:51.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7602" CreationDate="2014-09-03T05:19:05.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am experiencing the same problem as the OP and I can confirm that the cause of his problem is NOT the cable but the spring that is inside of the mechanical disc brake itself. If you actually open up the caliper you will find the spring. While my spring is not broken or rusted it seems to be coming out of place during operation. There are two ends of the spring which slot into two holes. I'm assuming the spring is coming out of the holes and it would make sense given the symptoms of the problem. When I brake it starts to move the pad in but at a certain point you hear a snap and the brake loses pretty much all tension. The lever can be pulled all the way in without the pad moving at all or more braking force being applied past this critical point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I release the caliper from the brake cable entirely the problem is solved for a short while until I apply the brakes about 40 times at which point the issue resurfaces. Based on this it's safe to say that allowing the caliper to fully retract allows the inner spring to reseat itself into the two holes that hold it into place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue with this is....how am I going to find a spring to replace this one? I worked in a hardware store in the past and I know for a fact it will be next to impossible to get just the spring from the manufacturer for the exact part and finding a similar one in any retail store is slim to none. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13646" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T05:19:05.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-03T06:35:46.300" Score="2" ViewCount="3632" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, I've seen this question around the web a bunch but the other questions are always including limitations and restrictions by brakes or fork/frame capabilities... So my question is, what is the widest tire you could put on a 23c road bike rim, leaving out frame/fork and or brakes limitations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this because I am looking for cyclocross tires for my fixed gear for some snow riding and I have a Surly Steamroller which has (what seems like) an endless amount of room for wide tires, but I can't find an answer on how wide I can actually go. I'm not planning on going oversized, mainly I'm wondering if a 33-35 would fit on a 23.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also any recommendations on good tires for winter would be great! Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13647" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T21:34:13.253" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T14:49:23.807" Title="Widest tire on a 23c rim?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24510" CreationDate="2014-09-03T09:23:29.603" Score="3" ViewCount="1390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working to improve my segment times on Strava riding 10km to/from work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My average speed is 32 kmph, and over short segments (1km) I can set avg speed 44 kmph / max 49.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the last year I have invested in a new bike and bike shoes, and now I leave a week's supply of clothes in advance in my work locker so that I can ride without a backpack - all of these improved my strava times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I am wondering if my &quot;standard&quot; bike helmet is a source of wind resistance that can be improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a sort of bike helmet that is more aerodynamic? For example, a tempo helmet, or a helmet that doesn't have the &quot;cooling&quot; holes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What features and considerations should I look for when buying a helmet, given I am most interested in riding faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&#xA;Viking Steve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11241" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T11:36:08.923" Title="What sort of bicycle helmet gives me better speed?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24504" CreationDate="2014-09-03T09:25:53.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;See for a definitive (imho conservative) answer the almighty &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown(bottom of page)&lt;/a&gt;. The rim width can vary a little between wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I have been running 700-35c Cyclocross knobby tires on standard Shimano Ultegra road racing wheels for years without any issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another really good tire for commuting and light offroading (gravel) to get on a CX bike is the Schwalbe Delta Cruiser (be sure to get the 700x28c version). Almost as fast as road tire, much higher comfort, long lasting and decent puncture protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13649" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T09:25:53.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24681" CreationDate="2014-09-03T09:27:19.677" Score="9" ViewCount="6341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading up on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/road/family/sram-force-cx1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sram's CX1 1x11 cyclocross-specific group&lt;/a&gt;. It hinges on two technologies to minimize the potential for dropped-chains/chainslap. The CX1 clutch rear-derailleur keeps the chain in tension, while the wide-narrow single chainring resists lateral movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious if there's any possibility to leverage the benefit of the clutch rear derailleur for chain stability, but still use a standard double-ring crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastEditorUserId="945" LastEditDate="2014-09-13T10:20:04.360" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T01:29:42.540" Title="Can double chainrings be used with a clutch-type rear derailleur?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2014-09-03T11:19:35.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, I've been using such setup for an year now, on my MTB (2x10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the &quot;Technologies&quot; tab on SRAM's page for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/sram-x9-type-2-10-speed-rear-derailleur&quot;&gt;X9 RD Type 2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equivalent technology by Shimano is called Shadow+ (note the +). When purchasing an RD, on can notice, that the price difference between having or not having the relevant technology is relatively small compared to the price of the RD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I believe that the unique technology in SRAM's 1x11 grouppie is the shape of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://stwww.bikemag.com/files/2012/07/Teeth.jpg&quot;&gt;chainring teeth&lt;/a&gt;. It is claimed to make the use of a chain guide unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T11:26:39.597" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T11:26:39.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24505" CreationDate="2014-09-03T12:24:07.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is kind of a non-question. You want the helmet that rides the fastest? For anything &quot;fastest&quot;, either components or kit, just look at what the professional riders are using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to imply that you either wear a regular-design lid (albeit one which is very light, very ventilated, and probably very expensive). Or, you go for a time-trial helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some team helmets used to be made by Giro (as I bought one, Ionos springs to mind, but I'n not 100%). This was a couple of years ago, I would assume it is still the case. As for the exact model, just look at the top of the range. At the start of this year's Tour de France, a bike shop I follow on Facebook ran a competition to win a Team Sky helmet - manufactured by Kask. So there's two manufacturers to give you a start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards TT helmets, when I watch time trials a lot of the riders seem to wear Specialized lids, not just the Specialized team. So they might be a good place to start looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume you realise (and accept) that for this kind of top-notch quality, you will pay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T13:05:12.230" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T13:05:12.230" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24505" CreationDate="2014-09-03T15:02:44.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are now &quot;sprinters&quot; helmets that are bit in between TT helmets and regular bike helmets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giro Air Attack is a good example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mm9it.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dave Millar wearing Giro Air Attack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are even some pro riders using them in TT stages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T15:02:44.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10331" CreationDate="2014-09-03T16:58:46.680" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't worry about the viability of old brake pads, unless there is something obviously wrong with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13637" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T16:58:46.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24514" CreationDate="2014-09-03T21:08:12.977" Score="4" ViewCount="2401" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are single speed bikes considered good bikes to use with child seats?  I wasn't sure if the added weight of a four year old would make a single speed too hard to use.   Will be using the bike on relatively flat terrain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12874" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T03:10:11.563" Title="Single speed bike with child seat?" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24513" CreationDate="2014-09-03T22:51:13.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is unlikely that a four year old will slow you down much on a single speed. Just make sure you've got a well maintained front and rear brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you're thinking about making a purchase, consider the advantages of a bike that has a few gears, maybe seven or ten, etc, if you anticipate tackling a hill every now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="13685" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T03:10:11.563" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T03:10:11.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24513" CreationDate="2014-09-03T22:54:48.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fixed-gear generation having aged into parenthood, one sees such bikes commonly enough in Brooklyn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just used a singlespeed for a short loaded tour because my touring bike is broken. It was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T22:54:48.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-04T01:42:41.343" Score="3" ViewCount="1140" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My question is somewhat similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10897/whole-bicycle-rack-easily-removed-is-the-provider-liable&quot;&gt; Whole Bicycle Rack Easily Removed! Is the provider liable?&lt;/a&gt;, however, in this case, it was from my apartment's bike rack, which is managed.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in an apartment building that is managed by Meriton. We have access to a secure underground carpark, that is normally only accessible by swipe card. My road bike was locked up in one of the bike racks that are provided in this carpark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning, I discovered that thieves have apparently unbolted the entire rack, and taken my bike (but left two other bikes on the rack there):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fmhas.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unbolted bike rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reported it to building management immediately, and apparently they're aware the racks are removable, and nothing was done to secure the bolts. My question is, is there anything I can do to hold the building management liable, based on their installation of the rack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13655" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T19:47:44.100" Title="Bike Rack from Apartment's Underground Carpark Removed - Is building management liable?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24516" CreationDate="2014-09-04T02:46:53.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are insured make an insurance claim and they will follow up on any legal liability someone else might have, but you get a replacement bike quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not insured, you are in a lose/lose and maybe lose some more situation. You can accept that your bike got stolen and get on with life. Or you could sue a large property investment company and spend the next few years in a legal battle you cannot afford to lose digging a deep hole that is only getting deeper. Regardless of legal liability, the cost means they will laugh at you with the response &quot;My pockets for legal fees are deeper than yours, see you in court and raise you costs&quot;. Given the risk they will win, and seek costs against you, they don't really care about how much they spend winning because you pull out - and when you do, they will seek costs anyway.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only realistic option is ask nicely, or if your country has the concept of a small claims tribunal where you can bring a claim without paying lawyers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as answering your question - apart from the fact that would be providing legal advise, its not answerable without seeing your contract and knowing what part of the world you live in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-09-04T03:29:28.770" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T03:29:28.770" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24513" CreationDate="2014-09-04T08:59:55.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No problem at all. Single speed bikes with coaster brakes are very common in the Netherlands and a lot of them have child seats in some form or another. I use one myself and while one &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; feel the extra weight, especially on the odd incline, it's still very much ridable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10493" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T08:59:55.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32223" CreationDate="2014-09-04T10:33:00.697" Score="14" ViewCount="15556" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into going for tubular tyres and I'm new to this part of the world. As far as I understand there are two main options to mount the tyre:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Tub Glue&lt;/strong&gt; which sounds like kind of a pain in the ass time-wise and requires some effort, but seems like a very solid solution to fix the tyre to the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Tub Tape&lt;/strong&gt; like the one from &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/review/18602-velox-jantex-tubular-tape&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Velox&lt;/a&gt;, which seems like a very easy and fast way to mount the tyre but for me personally it doesn't seem rock solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone with the experience of using both explain pros and cons of these methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you guys! You're the best!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2018-11-21T17:11:40.507" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T15:12:05.870" Title="Tubular Glue vs Tubular Tape" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24505" CreationDate="2014-09-04T11:36:08.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aerodynamics of a helmet cannot be considered in isolation but rather how it affects aerodynamics when on the rider. The fastest helmet choice for one rider won't necessarily be the fastest for another, it's quite an individual thing. I've done many, many aero tests of helmets on rider, and am often surprised at the combination that proves best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I wouldn't advise using what a pro uses specifically - they ride / wear what their sponsors require them to, not necessarily what's optimal. Instead perhaps note what they use as a guide for options to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is riding on roads / commute, then functional considerations need to factor in. Comfort, ventilation for cooling, being able to hear road traffic, safety in case of accident (TT helmets probably are not ideal in that respect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there are many other ways to gain improved aerodynamics and speed. Tight fitting bike clothes, nothing loose or flapping, shaving exposed skin, improving aerodynamic position on the bike, use of aero bike components, better wheels and tyres, and of course training to improve power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T11:36:08.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24485" CreationDate="2014-09-04T13:14:13.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say &quot;The 8mm hex hole is now slipping so there is no more grip.&quot;&#xA;So at this point you're trying to save the crank set. Depending on the age of the bike the bottom bracket may be incompatible with newer crank sets, so it may be fairly important to you to salvage the crank set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take the crank to a machine shop you will likely pay more than the cost of a better crank set to remove the pedal, so I would not consider that a good option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right (passenger side) crank comes off by turning the pedal counter-clockwise when standing on the right (passenger side) of the bike. Note that if your pedals use Allen wrenches, you're probably standing on the left (driver side) of your bike when trying to remove the pedal, and that will mean that you need to turn clockwise to remove the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With that in mind, easy outs or drilling out the pedal are going to be further tightening it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you were previously turning the wrong way then there is hope that the the Allen won't be sheered for turning the right way. I've had luck placing a piece of paper over the Allen hole and then hammering the Allen in such that the paper helps to form the original Allen socket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you were previously turning the right way, your options are very limited, you can try hammering a Torx of slightly larger size into the Allen hole. That's work one time for me. Beyond that you'll need to drill a hole through the body of the pedal, say screwdriver size, insert a screwdriver and twist it off that way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case you'll want to remove the crank and set it in a vise. And hose that bolt down with penetrating oil. You've only got .67 shot at this so make it good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7629" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T13:14:13.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24535" CreationDate="2014-09-04T13:46:40.020" Score="1" ViewCount="13477" Body="&lt;p&gt;My budget allows for maxing out at $500. The LBS sells the new 2015 Trek FX 7.2 for $450. I also found an excellent condition 2010 Trek FX 7.5 for roughly the same price. Assuming the used bike is in excellent condition with less than 300 miles of use, should I be worried about the 5 year model difference of the two bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm upgrading from a 2008 Trek Navigator 3.0 that is too cumbersome for longer rides. I ride trails with the kids, charity rides, and occasional commuting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the specs as specified by Trek's website. I realize the 2010 FX 7.5 has better specs but should I be worried about their age? Or with these bike components is usage more important than age?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2010 FX 7.5&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame: FX Alpha Black Aluminum&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fork: Bontrager Nebula, carbon w/Clix dropouts&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wheels: Bontrager SSR w/Clix&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tyres: Bontrager Race Lite Hard-Case, 700x32c&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shifters: Shimano Deore trigger, 9 speed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Front derailleur: Shimano Deore&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rear derailleur: Shimano Deore LX&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Crank: Shimano M443 Octalink 48/36/26&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cassette: SRAM PG950 11-26, 9 speed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pedals: Alloy body w/alloy cage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Saddle: Bontrager H2 Flex Form&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Seatpost: Bontrager Nebula&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Handlebar: Bontrager SSR OS, 25mm rise&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Stem: Bontrager SSR, 10 degree&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Headset: Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Brakeset: Avid SD SD-3 w/Tektro adjustable reach levers&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2015 FX 7.2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame: FX Alpha Silver Aluminium, DuoTrap S compatible, rack and mudguard mounts&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Fork: High-tensile steel w/lowrider mounts, CLIX dropouts&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Front hub: Formula TK31 alloy&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rear hub: Formula FM32 alloy&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rims: Bontrager AT-750 32-hole double-walled alloy &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tyres: Bontrager H2 Hard-Case Lite w/puncture resistant belt, 700x35c&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shifters: Shimano Altus EF51, 8 speed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Front derailleur: Shimano M191&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rear derailleur: Shimano Acera M360&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Crank: Shimano M131, 48/38/28 w/chainguard&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cassette: Shimano HG31 11-32, 8 speed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pedals: Nylon body w/alloy cage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chain: KMC Z7&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Saddle: Bontrager SSR&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Seatpost: Bontrager SSR, 27.2mm, 12mm offset&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Handlebar: Bontrager Low Riser, 25.4mm, 15mm rise&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Stem: Bontrager SSR, 25.4mm,10 degree&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Headset: VP, semi-cartridge bearings, sealed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Brakeset: Tektro alloy linear-pull brakes, Shimano Altus levers&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Grips: Bontrager Satellite&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13661" LastEditorUserId="13661" LastEditDate="2014-09-04T16:04:35.603" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T18:15:14.350" Title="What bike is better 2010 Trek FX 7.5 or 2015 Trek FX 7.2?" Tags="&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-04-22T01:40:37.663" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24524" CreationDate="2014-09-04T14:42:29.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the level of bike you are looking at (2010 Trek 7.5 FX), most of the components will be easily found at your local bike shop or online. At this level, most manufacturers will use standard components which are easily obtainable, mostly because using any non-standard components would end up costing more, as they would only be produced in low quantities. Also, because they use standard components, and many other bikes use the same components, there is a big market for replacement parts, which means that finding replacement parts should be easy and inexpensive.  Assuming the used bike is in good condition, you shouldn't be worried about being able to find replacement parts when the time comes. As you move up to more exotic/expensive bikes, you'll start to see more unique parts that may be harder or more expensive to replace on older models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T14:42:29.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-04T17:48:56.323" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a set of new EggBeater 3 pedals for 1 month and the left pedal is rusted. I don't understand why only one of the pedals is rusted and the other is not. Is this common and is there something in particular I should do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13666" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-09-04T19:42:19.650" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T19:42:19.650" Title="CrankBrothers EggBeater 3 Rusted" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-09-05T12:59:16.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24516" CreationDate="2014-09-04T19:47:44.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer largely duplicates my answer to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/10897/213&quot;&gt;similar question&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &lt;strong&gt;&quot;No, it's likely that there is nothing you can do to hold building management liable for the theft of your bike.&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am neither a lawyer nor a resident of Australia where it seems this happened, so this longer answer is to the best of my layman's understanding and you should do some more research to make sure it applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key legal issue is the lack of &lt;a href=&quot;http://sydney.edu.au/lec/subjects/commercial/topic_notes/md06_commercial.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Bailment&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. For a bailment to be created the property in question has to be delivered to the bailee (a representative of Building Management) by you (the bailor), and the bailee must have both possession and control of the property. Once a bailment has been created the bailee must take reasonable steps to care for the property that has been delivered but does not normally insure the bailor against all loss of or to the property while it is in the bailee's possession unless he expressly undertakes that obligation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that the bailee is not liable for any and all damages or loss of the property while the property is in his care; he is only liable if the bailee can be proved negligent in caring for the property. Negligence can be proved if you can show that a reasonable person in possession and control of your property would not have taken whatever action led to the loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you rode up to a rack, chained up your bike and went your way. There was no transfer of possession or control from you to Building Management. The Building Management couldn't move your bike (at least not under normal situations) and no individual implied in any way that they would look after or protect it. Even if it was obvious to a reasonable individual that the rack was poorly installed or easily circumvented, the bailment was not created in the first place, so Building Management has no duty whatsoever to protect your bike from theft or loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T19:47:44.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19158" CreationDate="2014-09-05T02:31:29.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy shims to put between the disc and hub. Here's one example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Syntace-Disc-Rotor-Shims&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jensonusa.com/Syntace-Disc-Rotor-Shims&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really that simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T02:31:29.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24484" CreationDate="2014-09-05T05:51:38.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same frame material. Not sure why it's not more detailed on the Elite specs, but there are several shops marketing it that reference the same frame materials as the Comp, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://m.facebook.com/rocktownbicycles/posts/748908081834590&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makes sense when you think about it. The Comp and Elite ultimately refer to different component packages (just like those annoying and less meaningful letters that come after car models), though I'm not sure why they don't just call the frame an AWOL! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13613" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T05:51:38.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24464" CreationDate="2014-09-05T06:18:02.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most shops don't carry spare parts for STI shifters. Most problems are internal and even if you can get spare parts, the cost in labor to replace most things (except clamps, hoods, and name plates) coupled with the cost of the spares exceeds the cost of a whole new unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piece you need is called an outer support unit. Shimano does have part numbers for individual pieces like that, but in general, you'll have to go direct to Shimano to get them. The biggest bike distributor in America doesn't have them. This makes them a little harder to attain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there's the other problem: you have old Sora components. Generally, Shimano engineers new stuff and drops support for the old, at least when it comes to spares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, you might look around but I'd say you have an incredibly small chance of finding the replacement part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not too mention, as I implied earlier, it's not trivial to replace things on STIs. If you're willing to take it on, you'll generally be on your own, as few shops do such repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're ambitious, I'd just try to find a broken shifter that you can scavenge the piece from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you could do is hack it. Fabricate a sleeve to cover over the housing stop that goes as far as your barrel adjuster. It might just be enough. Make sure the inner diameter is as close as possible to the outer diameter of the stop. I'd suggest something that isn't going to be too annoying if it rattles, which it probably will. This is one case where carbon fiber might be useful! ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use this for competitive purposes, professional (on Sora? Probably not), amateur, or just for fun, I'd suggest STIs. Otherwise, bar end shifters are a technology that has been around a long time.  They're simple and anyone can figure them out. Plus, the friction mode is very useful. I'd give it some serious thought if you don't mind moving your hands off the lever to shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13613" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T06:18:02.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24534" CreationDate="2014-09-05T10:24:57.117" Score="5" ViewCount="2004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reviewing some of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://greatergreaterwashington.org/post/14509/bring-the-kids-on-your-next-bike-ride-with-these-products/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;options&lt;/a&gt; for commuting your kid around (bike seat, trailers, mid tails, long tails, etc) and am having a hard time determining the best option.   My daughter is 45lbs and is at or approaching the limit of most bike seats.   Is the easy option of a bike seat the way to go?  Or will commuting a kid at the max weight of a seat be too cumbersome (and short term)?   Are the other options a better choice here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note I don't currently own a bike so all choices will involve a purchase of some kind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12874" LastEditorUserId="12874" LastEditDate="2014-09-05T10:32:56.280" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T08:29:18.527" Title="Child bike seat usage when approaching max weight" Tags="&lt;children&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24533" CreationDate="2014-09-05T11:20:58.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you decide to buy the seat now, presumably there'd be an issue as she grows? And by the sounds of things, it won't be long before she passes the upper limit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd look at other options, which as I see it, are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a trailer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pi3Lo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trailer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one of those things where they're sitting on their own saddle, over their own wheel, but are actually being towed by you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftP7g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or last, get her her own bike. From experience, this one has pros and cons. The obvious pro is to get them cycling as soon as possible, the con is that until they become pretty proficient, they ride mightily slowly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was googling, I also came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://whatabikecando.com/child-bike-seat-bike-trailer-or-cargo-bike-pt-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; which might help (and this is where the pics came from).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2017-10-18T16:56:38.167" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T16:56:38.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24524" CreationDate="2014-09-05T12:05:47.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a bike hasn't been ridden but stored in a nice environment (e.g. a garage) for a few years and it was in good condition when it was put in, all you have to do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dust it off&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pump up tires&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lube the chain and other moving parts&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the brake pads are still good&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then ride away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;300 gentle miles on a bike is practically new. A bicycle sitting idle for 5 years is pretty much nothing. And bike parts are available through your LBS or online or ebay or spare parts bins for much longer than one may think. (I'd probably do a mechanical check on everything on the bike as well, but I suppose its not strictly necessary if the bike hasn't been touched in a long time)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hesitate to answer this somewhat, since it somewhat verges on product recommendation, but the components on the 7.5 fx are better quality and compatible parts will be available for essentially the same amount of time as the 7.2 fx (pretty much all of them are cross compatible with whats on the 7.2 fx anyway, except the crankset + bb which is octalink vs jis, both extremely easy to get though). If the 7.5 fx is in excellent condition, it is the one I'd go for (possibly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=19890&amp;amp;make=750&amp;amp;model=58263&amp;amp;year=2010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;talking down the price a bit&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T12:05:47.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7168" CreationDate="2014-09-05T12:47:18.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's slower because  of the difference from a road bike; much heavier, fatter tires, limited gear choice.  Upright ride position is not aerodynamic.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Giant expressway to which I added metal fold pedals, Brooks B67, Ergo grips and Marathon tires. It's for ride to store, short tour ride after bus or train ride or just a fun day on a bike.  You can store it almost anywhere, and put it in your trunk or on the seat next to you. But it will never be as fast as a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13668" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-09-05T12:56:14.353" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T12:56:14.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19158" CreationDate="2014-09-05T13:18:28.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ӎσᶎ's answer was the method I went with. I just got a washer from another hub (I didn't want to use a plain old steel washer from the hardware shop because I was concerned it might be too soft, though that might not be the case) and put it on the axle next to the cone. I did that In January and it's done about 4000k without any problems since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T13:18:28.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24520" CreationDate="2014-09-05T14:16:52.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I hoped someone with more recent experience would chime in. It's been 20 years since I used tubulars, but here's what I remember. While the glue is important, the inflation of the tire will hold the tire to the rim. The glue is largely there to prevent the tire rolling when you're cornering hard and to keep the tire on the rim if you get a flat/slow leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the Drillium days, racers used to try and use the minimal amount of glue to reduce rolling weight and a tire inspection was part of the starting line ritual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are actually two kinds of glues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is a sort of shellac that works very similar to contact cement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is more gooey and never really dries. ( Looks like snot comming out of tube). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always used the second kind since there was a reasonable chance that if you needed to mount your spare tubular on the road, the old glue on the rim would work until you got home. The shellac kind required that both the rim and tire have a relatively recent coat of glue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would be my primary concern with the tape. How well it does it work when you need to deal with a flat on the road? Although now that I think about it, I can't remember having more than one or two flats in over 10 years of riding tubulars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any luck, my likely incorrect memories will shake some real answers out of the trees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T14:16:52.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24543" CreationDate="2014-09-05T16:24:50.790" Score="4" ViewCount="10565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to replace my 2008 comfort cruiser with a fitness style hybrid. My budget allows for maxing out at $500 (on the new fitness hybrid bike itself). I ride rails-to-trails with the kids, charity rides, and would like to commute to work on occasion (15 miles round trip). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately the decision comes down to bike feel, but with the limited budget, am I better to put my money into upgraded components or disc brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13661" LastEditorUserId="13661" LastEditDate="2014-09-05T17:26:21.127" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T19:54:46.233" Title="Buying first hybrid bike; better to put $ into components or disc brakes?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24540" CreationDate="2014-09-05T16:30:09.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mean it depends on your current component spec, but I would tend to say disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good brakes will do wonders for your confidence riding, and will allow you to ride a broader range of trails, in terms of both trail style and technical difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you can get set up with a set of Avid BB7s for a pretty reasonable price, and leave yourself some money to spend on other components as well. BB7s are a really good, affordable alternative to hydraulic brakes.  And they're super easy to maintain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I don't work for Avid, and I run Shimano hydraulics on my bike.  I just think that BB7s are absolutely the best mechanical brake out there, and the best for beginner bikers based on cost, function, and maintainability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T16:30:09.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24540" CreationDate="2014-09-05T16:57:18.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;$500 is close call as the money in the disc is money they did not use elsewhere.   I think you should evaluate the bikes you like at $500 and use disc as one factor.  At $500 I would look for upgraded components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At $800 you start to get a lot more disc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you will get disc on $500 bikes and you will get full suspension but that does not mean it was the best use of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider used if you know bicycles.  I have picked up $1200 retail bikes used in great shape for $400.  Some of the best deals are not disc as you get people that traded up to disc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also look for year end sales. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good answer from Batman but I do like disc brakes on a road bike.  At $500 disc brakes is probably not the best use of money but at $800 I would look for disc. I really like disc.  Nice touch and good stopping power even in the rain. At $1000 like the SIRRUS ELITE&#xA;DISC but that is clearly past your budget.  Cyclocross are great fitness bikes and have disc.  There you do find a lot of used as many racers will upgrade every two years.  There you can get a $2000 retail bike for $800 but you take a risk of crash (bent) bike.  Again past your $500.  At $500 you are not going to get much past a good basic bike.  But it is still a big step up from a department store bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-05T19:04:51.137" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T19:04:51.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24540" CreationDate="2014-09-05T18:16:01.050" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, you don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; disc brakes on a bike which lives on the road or other nice surfaces. The primary advantage on the road is that you don't have to deal with wheel true-ness as much, and that they look cool. For wet weather riding, they can stop you a bit quicker, but with properly adjusted V-brakes, you can stop pretty damn quickly once you learn to feather the brakes. Discs also cost significantly more than rim brakes, and lower quality disc brakes (which you'll get in the ~500 dollar price range) will perform about as well as decent rim brakes. Your rims will last longer with a disc brake, but this is rarely to never an issue with a hybrid rider who doesn't put &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; high mileage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantages of disc brakes are many -- for example, the front fork will be heavier since it needs to be more robust to handle the &lt;a href=&quot;http://julesandjames.myzen.co.uk/disk_and_quick_release/&quot;&gt;forces of disc brakes&lt;/a&gt;, and they weigh more than most rim brakes (weight weenie-ing isn't a big deal on a 500 dollar bike). Also, you'll have to take a lot of money (probably 20% of the budget) for the disc brakes, versus well less than half of that for rim brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/disc-brakes.html&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; from John Allen makes a good summary with a nice point-by-point list of advantages and disadvantages. Generally, for most people, the rim brakes in this price range are the better choice and enjoy the better components all around (these days, you'll probably get 1 level up in the drive train and a carbon fork, which is nice). And your dollar will go a lot farther on a used bike than a new bike (another post recently described a used Trek 7.5 FX for ~450 dollars, which would be a fantastic non-disc option for a hybrid). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to get discs in the future, you do need a disc compatible frame and fork (excluding solutions like BrakeTherapy), as well as hubs on the wheels, so if you think you'll want them in the future, you probably should just buy the disc brake version (or buy the non-disc version, sell it and then buy a disc bike). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: Hybrids generally have two distinguishing options between models from a given manufacturer: with/without suspension and with/without disc brakes. Generally, you should choose no suspension (unless your doctor tells you otherwise (i.e. you have severe back problems)) and fit decently large tires, and without disc brakes since for most riders they wont see an advantage unless the disc brakes are high quality and their riding conditions require it. Usually, cheaper hybrids run mountain bike groups on a flat bar setup, while more expensive ones run road bike groups on a flat bar setup. You also get carbon forks after you spend a bit of money, which is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T18:16:01.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24540" CreationDate="2014-09-05T19:54:46.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked a similar question (similar, because people recommended a hybrid): &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/2767/1097&quot;&gt;What bike+equipment for a long daily urban commute?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike that I bought cost $700 after a discount for being last year's model, so it afforded/included disc brakes (and I like it very much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing about disc brakes is that they work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a steep down-hill, and/or at top speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the wet (riding in rain or snow)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In traffic (riding on city streets at rush-hour)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2767/what-bikeequipment-for-a-long-daily-urban-commute/2780#comment3421_2769&quot;&gt;this comment&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Disc brakes stop when it's wet - I'm in Vancouver! Hydraulics have a lot more braking force - I can lock the wheel with a finger, with regular pads I had to squeeze hard and hope on the steep sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're also useful, apparently, off-road in mud: if your rims get muddy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not the type, time, place, and speed of riding that you're doing, perhaps disc brakes are less important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm riding in the country-side instead of in traffic: so I don't need to do 'emergency stops'. Brakes are important, but perhaps more enjoyable are nice gears, and (especially) good tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T19:54:46.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24533" CreationDate="2014-09-06T08:27:24.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There do exist child seats that support higher weights, for example this one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yepp.nl/uk/Collection/Yepp-Junior&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.yepp.nl/uk/Collection/Yepp-Junior&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;I rembember this style of seats to be very common in The Netherlands for kids up to ages of 8 or so (although they often also cycle on their own).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does require a bike with a rear rack that actually supports that weight too, and I don't know about availability outside NL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7161" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T08:27:24.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-06T14:52:22.330" Score="1" ViewCount="1312" Body="&lt;p&gt;The LBS doesn't have anything in stock to replace the crank on this bike : &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qMegY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this type of crank and does anyone still supply them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5170" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T13:52:40.797" Title="Old bike - what can I use for crank replacement?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;lbs&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24546" CreationDate="2014-09-06T16:30:12.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cottered crank&lt;/a&gt;. I don't think anybody makes them anymore, but not all hope is lost. You can likely replace the entire crankset and bottom bracket assuming the bike has a bottom bracket which is still available, which is somewhat likely. It may cost more than you are willing to spend on the old bike though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T16:30:12.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24557" CreationDate="2014-09-07T12:59:10.973" Score="0" ViewCount="8899" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Whyte T-129s and the lever on the maxle is now very loose when putting the wheels back on. It no longer holds in place - is it possible to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT this is a maxle - its a thicker axle, at 15mm or 20mm up from the 9mm of a QR with a skewer.  This adds stiffness and strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lBpdH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lBpdH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3670" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T01:24:22.870" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T09:08:52.237" Title="maxle lever is very loose" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;axle&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;&lt;through-axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24553" CreationDate="2014-09-07T14:02:38.937" Score="1" ViewCount="2527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2014 Whyte T-129s and am considering converting the tires to tubeless. They are already 'tubeless compatible', so this should not be prohibitively expensive, but I am wondering whether this will really result in a better performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3670" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T03:06:39.927" Title="what benefits do tubeless tyres bring to a 29er trail mtb?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;29er&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8998" CreationDate="2014-09-07T15:30:49.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a builder of home bicycling contraptions myself (recumbents not bicycles) but also as a nationally competitive TT'ist (seniors) I have a comment on centering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course making the spoke offset symmetrical would (as mentioned prior) push the cogset far out, perhaps in 35-40mm range (just a rough guess).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the chain line correct would force the right pedal to shift out to match (as mentioned prior also).  It has been noted in cycling literature that it is no coincidence that the world's best TT'ist also ride with their knees close together.  It has also been documented in MIT's wind tunnel that the gap between the legs is a major contributor to air drag (noting that a bottle on the seat tube sometimes lowers air drag because it fills that gap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you are talking about riding MB's, aero doesn't matter much but if you a road guy who'd sell his soul for .1 mph, then it does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13680" LastActivityDate="2014-09-07T15:30:49.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24551" CreationDate="2014-09-07T15:39:33.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the main advantages of tubeless is that you can run &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/goodies/go-tubeless.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lower pressures&lt;/a&gt; (which comes with better shock absorption and thus control) with less risk of flats (though you should always carry a backup tube). I'm not entirely sure on where the truth is in regards to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/mountainbikecom/bikes-gear/pssssst&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;weight&lt;/a&gt;, but I don't think its &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-gear/how-to-tubeless-mountain-biking-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;important&lt;/a&gt;. The disadvantages are still having to carry a backup tube and the extra complexity of installing the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, if you have tubeless ready rims, its relatively cheap to try running tubeless on your own, so I think giving it a shot is the best way to convince yourself that its worth it or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T03:06:39.927" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T03:06:39.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24609" CreationDate="2014-09-07T17:23:45.110" Score="1" ViewCount="847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was attempting to replace my stock front v brake to a better aftermarket v brake everything went ok until I tried to test it and the brake cable end, the one that connects to the brake lever, will not stay in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t3rej.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brake lever&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the cable gets clamped at the brake lever entrance. On my bicycle the clamp or  ferrule will not stay in place. In other words, the cable does not tighten because it will not clamp into the brake lever, it slides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is.. Can this be fixed? Perhaps I can glue it in somehow? Perhaps there is something that gets clamped in a different way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies for the vague explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13681" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T08:39:43.783" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T17:39:42.470" Title="Tried to replace bicycle brake housing. Broken cable?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-07T19:07:40.963" Score="1" ViewCount="1519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get some large clipless shoes for an indoor stationary cycle at my gym, which I presume uses SPD. I wear a U.S. size 15B and it is difficult to find shoes that long, let alone with a narrow width? Shoes I could source in Toronto, Canada, would be best, but I can get them in the U.S. if I must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1766" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T05:14:01.920" Title="Where can I get U.S. size 15B SPD clipless shoes?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24550" CreationDate="2014-09-07T20:01:17.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think all Maxle's are the same, but I've had two different types and each could be tightened in a slightly different way.  With one (I believe an older design) there is a 2.5mm hex bolt on the lever end which you can tighten/loosen to affect how tight the lever is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See an example of this here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike-manual.com/brands/trek/om/assets/pdfs/09sram_maxle_cengdfjnp.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bike-manual.com/brands/trek/om/assets/pdfs/09sram_maxle_cengdfjnp.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other, the lever could be tightened by pushing the end in and twisting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explained in this article about half way down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikemag.com/gear/news-rockshoxs-pike-is-back/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikemag.com/gear/news-rockshoxs-pike-is-back/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13682" LastEditorUserId="13682" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T09:08:52.237" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T09:08:52.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2607" CreationDate="2014-09-07T21:37:47.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spend some time on the bike, if your bike has down tube shifters I would suggest riding in a low position and get used to the balance of the bike when letting go with one hand. It doesn't take long and you'll have no problem at all. Simply ride only this bike for a couple of weeks and you'll be all set. After that go ahead and ride both. I have two bikes as your describing and this is what I did. Just a new habit to learn, don't over think it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13683" LastActivityDate="2014-09-07T21:37:47.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2607" CreationDate="2014-09-08T01:33:17.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing downtube shifters will let you know right away is if your position is setup with your weight too far forward. If you've got too much weight on your hands&#xA;it will be very difficult to take one hand away without first sitting up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make life simpler, replace the cog set on the back with a more modern Freewheel that has hyperglide cogs. ( Sunrace is reasonably good and easy to find ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stick with the old stuff, you'll need to learn the art of slightly overshifting and then trimming back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, you will learn to shift either lever with either hand, or even both at once with the same hand. But it's simpler to start out by just using your dominate hand for both. While it's hard at the start, try and keep your eyes on the road and learn to shift by the sounds. Headphones and downtube shifters really don't mix very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T01:33:17.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24561" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-08T02:08:42.203" Score="2" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.electrabike.com/bikes/townie/balloon-8i&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New bike&lt;/a&gt; owner here. I ride everyday in the city for errands and eating out as long as it doesn't rain (I don't like riding in rain). As winter is approaching, I'd like to find a bag of some sort that would pack the following as I stroll the streets, or linger in coffee shops, in between commutes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Helmet (clip from outside?)&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind/Winter jacket (if it gets hotter and less windy, I can put it in the bag and ride)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;iPad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keys, Wallet, misc items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't intend to carry anymore things. A backpack could work (provided it doesn't make me sweaty), &lt;strike&gt;but is there one where the helmet can be securely clipped on?&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, I want a single bag to carry all essential accessories, so I can just put 'em all in, and carry it with me between the rides, while freeing the hands from carrying anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: I live in Victoria, BC, Canada - nearly always above zero degrees. Lots of sunshine. Windy. I don't intend to ride in even mild rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;: I carry an U-lock that is attached to the frame, and I just realized that I can lock the helmet to the lock (helmets are unlikely to be stolen I guess), so I don't need to carry the helmet with me. That increases my options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13685" LastEditorUserId="13685" LastEditDate="2014-09-09T03:39:59.860" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T03:39:59.860" Title="Minimal gear for dry winter riding in the city" Tags="&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25488" CreationDate="2014-09-08T02:15:02.333" Score="0" ViewCount="1561" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's time to replace my shift cables on my road bike and I'm thinking of spending the extra and investing in Shimano Dura Ace 9000 polymer cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Has anyone experience of these?&lt;/strong&gt; I'd appreciate your thoughts, particularly on whether the shifting is any better over standard cables and if you think they are worth the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run Ultegra 6700 and can't think of any reason why they wouldn't be compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding installation/maintenance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I understand that when you install them you need to scrape the polymer off the cable where it is clamped down upon by the rear derailleur - Is it simple enough to scrape off without making a dogs' breakfast of it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are pre-lubed with silicone grease - in the future will WD-40 suffice to keep things moving smoothly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T12:10:16.980" Title="Shimano DA9000 polymer cables" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24561" CreationDate="2014-09-08T07:02:07.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just get a small backpack and a drybag that fits inside it. Put clothes and electronics into the dry bag and put that into the backpack. As Batman says though, winter may need more than just the items you list. Here, I need a LOT more protection as it gets COLD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for keeping a helmet secure, there are loads with a mesh or similar on the outside that you can put your helmet into or clip onto (I tend to just clip it around a strap and let it dangle though). I'd suggest going to a bike shop and looking at their stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T07:02:07.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24464" CreationDate="2014-09-08T07:18:53.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If expoxy doesn't work, you won't need to replace the complete set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left-hand STI shifters (for front derailleurs) tend to be more durable and reliable than right-hand shifters, Front derailleurs are used less frequently than the rear. As a result,  left ones are easier to find &lt;em&gt;and cheaper&lt;/em&gt; on eBay.   Right now there is an &quot;almost new&quot; LH Sora ST-3304 on eBay for $30 and a new LH ST-2303 for $20. Broken &quot;for parts only&quot; shifters also pop up on occasion.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can search eBay for the exact model number if you want to keep a matching set.  The model number is usually found on the outer-side under the under the rubber hood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also sellers on eBay who repair older 7-8 speed STI levers. You might try contacting one of them.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11468" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T07:18:53.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24561" CreationDate="2014-09-08T09:00:42.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's only really a few options in terms of bags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the top level, you can have something that fits onto the bike (a pannier), or something that fits onto you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many people, panniers are a convenient solution and can clip/unclip from the bike in a few seconds. But you need a bike rack, and not all types of bike support this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at things that would fit onto you, I can think of three. First, as you say, there is the backpack. Personally, I don't like them because I don't like having things on my back when I'm cycling, but it's just a preference thing. The second option is some kind of courier bag, which would also go across your back. for example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ousVf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my money, that's just about the same as a backpack, but you might find you prefer one style over the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third option is a bumbag, or waist bag. You're obviously restricting the amount of carry-space here, but depending on how bulky your jacket is, it might work. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SGBCd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up with one of these (style, not bag) and it is good, but I need to be very discerning about what I carry. You might find your iPad is a limiting factor here, although I managed to get a 7&quot; tablet in mine. But this is something you'd need to check against the spec. Obviously when you think about a helmet, you'll looking at clipping it to the bag rather than putting it in the bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T09:00:42.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24568" CreationDate="2014-09-08T10:14:36.247" Score="0" ViewCount="2465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess you have to have at least a couple of cassettes in your arsenal for different occasions. Can anyone please advise on how to choose a proper cassette depending on a trip. What can influence the decision process of choosing the right cassette for a trip? Road/weather conditions? Forecasted elevation gain (taken from the Strava for example)? Anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;proper cassette&quot; I mean the appropriate sprockets combination. There are a lot of different combinations from 11t to 32t. So you have cassettes like 11-23 or 13-28 or any other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I have to note that I'm new to road cycling so I don't have my own &quot;style&quot; of riding and this part of equation is totaly irrelevant for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for sharing the experience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T10:57:31.030" Title="How To Choose A Proper Sprocket Combination For A Road Bike Cassette?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24569" CreationDate="2014-09-08T10:47:38.760" Score="0" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at cross bikes to keep me cycling through the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nicholsons-cycles.co.uk/product/focus-bikes-mares-cx-3-0-disc-105/49669&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nicholsons-cycles.co.uk/product/focus-bikes-mares-cx-3-0-disc-105/49669&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this but am worried about the brakes - I do plan to go over the local hills off the beaten path and down my local (fairly mellow) MTB track. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need disk brakes? Are the brakes on the bike above called 'mini V' and a step up from regular road cantilever brakes? Would they be alright for off road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13688" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T09:55:29.157" Title="Cross bike brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24566" CreationDate="2014-09-08T10:57:31.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt many people would change cassette based on occasion, but I suppose it is possible - it isn't too onerous a task to swap a cassette out. But certainly I (and I suspect others too) will fit a cassette once and it will stay on the wheel for its lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the key thing with a cassette choice is basically how close (in terms of number of teeth) adjoining sprockets are to each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one of the extreme cases, where each sprocket has one more tooth than the last, this gives a really smooth riding experience. But the flip-side, of course, is that you have only a small range of gears. If you are riding in varied terrain, this can be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cassettes with sprockets as large as e.g. 28 are actually quite a recent thing (for road bikes), as technology has improved. These improve the range of the cassette significantly, making climbing easier, for example. The downside is that sometimes there is a 2 or 3 tooth difference between adjacent sockets, and the &quot;changing&quot; experience is not so smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again in terms of the range of gears, having larger sprockets at the back can also have advantages at the front - for example you may be able to get away with a double chainset whereas a few years ago, you'd have bought a triple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So essentially, having a large sprocket (28, say) will give you flexibility when climbing.  Having a small sprocket (11, say) will give you an advantage when travelling on the flat at speed (sprinting, if you like). Whereas a cassette with a small range will give you a smoother experience when actually changing. How much smoother is open to question, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of what cassette a beginner should use, I would say it is dependent on how strong a cyclist you are. If you are less strong, and will be climbing, then it is almost a no-brainer to go for a large-range cassette. Similarly if you're a strong rider, going to ride flat time trials, then it probably makes sense to get a small-range cassette. And unless you are a good, seasoned cyclist, it is unlikely that you will see any advantage of an 11T ring over a 12T ring - frankly you do a very small amount of riding in top gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last point to explicitly address your mention of weather. As far as cassettes go, weather is irrelevant. You'd do other things related to weather (for example drop your tyre pressure in the rain) but you wouldn't change cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T10:57:31.030" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24567" CreationDate="2014-09-08T12:02:50.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That bike is equipped with Avid Shorty 4's according to the description (contrary to the URL). Avid Shorty 4's are just regular cantilever brakes, which are standard on most cross bikes. A cantilever brake looks like this: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1bCc.png&quot; alt=&quot;canti&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mini V brakes are a type of V-brake with short pull so they can be used with road levers. &#xA;A mini-V brake looks like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1AgE4.png&quot; alt=&quot;miniv&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that its essentially just a small V brake with road-style pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes are nice in that their stopping power is more independent of the rim condition than rim brakes, but people have been riding in winter with rim brakes for decades, so its not essential (but its something you may like to have for messy riding). My answer in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24540/buying-first-hybrid-bike-better-to-put-into-components-or-disc-brakes&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; gives some pointers to disc brake need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A general note is that the bike you've selected is quite nice, and in places where you actually have to plan for winter, winter does some quite nasty things to a bike ridden often in winter -- you may want to go for something cheaper or depending on conditions switch to a cheap MTB. So, if you describe where you are, this may help someone give a better answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T12:02:50.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24807" CreationDate="2014-09-08T13:31:36.157" Score="-1" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;10 speed Ultegra CS 6600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I march up and down the gears on the stand it shifts fine. If I test it on the road and march up down the gears it shifts fine. But on a ride if I have been coasting for a while and then pedal about 1 in 5 times it will jump a gear and then jump back (not a function of how hard I pedal - more random).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain, cassettes, and chain ring are all OK - not new but not worn out. Bike is 10 years old but it has new wheels and plan to keep riding it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is to replace the cables. What should I try before I take it to the bike shop? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T21:15:11.607" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T15:04:38.483" Title="Adjust Rear Derailleur" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24561" CreationDate="2014-09-08T15:24:51.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For such light weight I suggest a handlebar bag: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't get dirty from spray from the wheels unlike panniers (which transfer dirt to your clothes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your phone is handy if you want to check e.g. a map (I mean stop but don't get off).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They've typically got a shoulder strap and quick release mounting so they're easy to take indoors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They've got slightly more capacity than you say you need -- you'll soon use it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unlike a backpack they won't make you sweaty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can always add a backpack for shopping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're quite small&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper ones soon start to let water in (true of any bag though)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(This is the big one for me) they get in the way of handlebar mounted lights.  This may or may not be an issue for you, but don't ignore it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a wedge bag would hold all your stuff except the helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you go for either clip the helmet on the outside or get a mesh helmet bag - helmets can do with some fresh air and a bag that will hold a helmet is quite bulky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/altura/dryline-bar-bag-ec008430?country=GB&amp;amp;currency=GBP&amp;amp;gclid=CMPOicD00cACFYrpwgodp2kAbw&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Altura dryline&lt;/a&gt; -- not the cheapest option but it has a mapcase to go over the top and can keep a netbook and change of clothes dry.  It would take a helmet for a small head, but not mine. I recently switched back to using it because of a baby seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/cycling/accessories/bags-baskets/axiom-adirondack-bar-bag-4-5l-black-grey&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;much cheaper options (example)&lt;/a&gt; out there as well, and most come with a shoulder strap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T15:24:51.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26054" CreationDate="2014-09-08T17:55:02.703" Score="0" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek T-900 tandem that I bought used.  It's probably about 12 or 13 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having some rear hub issues with it, but I can't identify what hub it is.  Trek's website and other searches just say &quot;Alloy Hub&quot;.  I don't even know for sure if the spacing is 145mm or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to identify the hub, because it needs a new cone.  If that's not possible, I'd like to verify the spacing (I don't have calipers) so I can have a new wheel built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T22:09:44.173" Title="Trek T-900 Tandem rear hub" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-08T20:04:09.017" Score="5" ViewCount="1432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took my new Trek 1.5 out for 2 spins after I got it and the front wheel is running a few mm off true. The back is too but it isn't that bad. I rode it approx 35km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stupidly didn't check the wheels to be properly trued when I left the shop but I didn't think I rode it that hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for new wheels to need to be trued after bedding in or could they have been off true from the factory? Do I have to be really paranoid about every little bump in the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rims:&#xA;Bontrager Tubeless Ready&#xA;Tyres:&#xA;Bontrager R1 Hard-Case Lite, 700x23c&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13691" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T01:48:01.410" Title="New Trek 1.5 wheels need to be trued after 2 rides, normal?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24577" CreationDate="2014-09-08T20:07:56.893" Score="1" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I find the correct outfit for a British Cycling event? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abcetour.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.abcetour.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;NO sign-up, NO fees, NO lycra, just wander in!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am strictly a Lycra guy... now what will I wear? ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But seriously, if anyone can point to a good resource for Vintage bike attire that would be great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T12:51:03.987" Title="British Cycling Attire" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-09-09T13:47:08.533" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13682" CreationDate="2014-09-08T20:40:23.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those of us with small budgets head to Walmart and get this Kryptonite U-Lock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=kryptonite+u-lock&amp;amp;ic=16_0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=kryptonite+u-lock&amp;amp;ic=16_0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bsxcP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bsxcP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;because it's about the cheapest (~$11 in 2014, $18 in 2017 though out of stock) Class 5 lock there is. Not the best Kryptonite by a long shot, but the name itself has some deterrent effect. Add a Kryptonite 7' x 10mm cable - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treefortbikes.com/cat/0/1170/Cable-Locks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.treefortbikes.com/cat/0/1170/Cable-Locks.html&lt;/a&gt; (~$16 shipped) and you have most of what you need to make a thief move on to another bike or trike. That 7' cable is enough to thread through a couple of wheels and the ($200!) seat frame. I live in a frowzy Florida town, not NYC, but we have bike thieves here, too, and I rather like my Spike recumbent trike -- and the only place I have to park it is a fenced-in carport that isn't highly secure &lt;em&gt;except&lt;/em&gt; for the fact that it is guarded by Terri the Terrorist Terrier, an alert and barky guard dog. W00F!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13692" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-05-04T10:27:58.427" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T10:27:58.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24575" CreationDate="2014-09-09T01:17:28.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the ABCE Tour website has a section specifically about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abcetour.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dress code&lt;/a&gt;.  In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imageevent.com/abce&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;photo&lt;/a&gt; section you can see what others have been wearing in the past.  Some of the past attendees even wore jeans and t-shirts.  So it shouldn't be to difficult.  Check out your local second hand and thrift store if you want to purchase something specific for this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5513" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T01:17:28.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24533" CreationDate="2014-09-09T01:53:45.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand the options that PeteH listed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.followme-tandem.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Follow Me Tandem&lt;/a&gt; is a pretty cool solution - it lets you attach the child's bike to an adult's bike to form an improvised tandem. The website is available in German and English. Check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://family-cycling.com/wp-family-cycling/wp-content/uploads/followme-infoflyer-english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;English flyer&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiAHY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular tandem with child stoker kit.  This store has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.precisiontandems.com/artkidbackinstall.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;several photos of small kids on with a seat back very young children&lt;/a&gt; Fairly soon children can sit without a seat back on the saddle.  Of course it all depends on the child and length of your rides.  Going with a tandem will give you probably the longest usability as your child grows up and allows you to go longer distances easily.  But good tandems do cost a bit.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bv5IG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no single solution that fits all.  It really depends on your riding habits (length of ride, type of ride, how often you ride, etc), how much money you are willing to spend, and personal preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5513" LastEditorUserId="1093" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T08:29:18.527" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T08:29:18.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-09T03:17:09.040" Score="-1" ViewCount="1560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just picked up a Manitou Tower pro fork to replace the Suntour XCT and it's a 15mm thru-axle wheel mount, which means that I need to replace the hub on my wheel since it's a 9mm QR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unsure of how to approach actually swapping the hub/spokes. I've been looking online and a DT Swiss XR2.5 hub + spokes combo popped up. I have a Kona Mahuna 2013 and all that's on there currently is the original Formula hub and spokes. Is there any thing that would prevent me from simply changing the hub + spokes with the XR2.5 hub? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the front tire/hub also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if it's a little convoluted, I've never messed with wheels before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13695" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-09-09T03:29:05.110" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T17:07:04.633" Title="Changing hubs on wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;through-axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18155" CreationDate="2014-09-09T09:11:46.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I am trying to understand the physics of bike weight. I have just made a switch from an 11Kg road bike to an 8Kg one &lt;strong&gt;(obviously there are many more factors and differences between the 2 bikes other than weight)&lt;/strong&gt;, and have noticed the benefit of reduced weight. However I am not sure I understand it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..So you haven't noticed a difference due to weight at all. You have assumed it, because that's what bicycle marketing tells you to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that you experienced a mixture of placebo and rolling reduction resistance - tires of the same width and category can vary by about 50% in RR. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T09:11:46.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18155" CreationDate="2014-09-09T09:23:17.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following is junk science:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dynamic friction on moving surfaces comes into play - I'd put $ on it that the 8kg has better quality components and therefore bearing than the 11kg bike..... Nothing to do with weight, but in cycling weight and quality is inextricably linked&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical losses in a bike powertrain are tiny - and when you're running fast on the level most of the work is against air resistance, which means you only get the square root of the gain as a change in speed. So the difference between a pretty good bike and an excellent in this area will be something like the sqrt of 1.01...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tires are another factor - I'm definitely faster on my light carbon fiber road bike than my heavy steel commuter bike, but the road bike has lightweight 23mm tires @ 110psi, compared with much heavier (puncture resistant) 32mm tires at 80psi on the commute bike so I suspect that most of the difference is in the wheels (and a more aerodynamic position on the road bike). –  Johnny Oct 21 '13 at 19:51&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Semi junk. The commuter bike may have higher RR tires, because a racer will be booted for speed and a commuter for puncture protection and tyre durability - but when tire design is the same, then wider is LOWER rolling resistance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Stiffness also factors in. The stiffer the BB area, the less power lost to frame flex. How much, I couldn't say. But the reduction of mass for climbing, increased stiffness and reduced friction for increased power to the wheels combined probably add up to something noticeable&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's something that bike magazines tell you is a reason to buy their advertisers more expensive CF bikes. But lab tests haven't shown it. In fact, flexier frames can actually be faster especially in climbing - because the flex makes the frame act as a spring smoothing power transmission&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/02/27/a-journey-of-discovery-part-5-frame-stiffness/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://janheine.wordpress.com/2011/02/27/a-journey-of-discovery-part-5-frame-stiffness/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikemagic.com/how-to/mountain-bike-maintenance/stiffness-and-the-sean-kelly-paradox.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bikemagic.com/how-to/mountain-bike-maintenance/stiffness-and-the-sean-kelly-paradox.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...Super stiff bikes are excellent for elite sprinters, but for everyone else an expensive and uncomfortable waste of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The angular acceleration of your wheels is a factor as you are accelerating.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a factor, but an incredibly tiny one. Of all the stupid things cyclists believe about performance, the idea that wheel weight has a large effect is probably the stupidest because everyone has seen evidence to the contrary. When you work on your derailers and spin the pedals is there any great resitance to the wheel coming up to speed? No, it's instant. And if you wear a pair of leather gloves you can stop a wheel moving at the rpm for 20mph with a brush of your hands. Both these things are because the energy required to make the wheel spin are tiny. (There's a formula for this - you were supposed to have learned it in highschool!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst case for a wheel is that it requires double the energy of non-rotating mass for kinetic energy. So for 2kg wheels, a 10kg frame and a 50kg rider, that's 4 to 10 to 50. The effects of wheel mass become even smaller when you consider a realistic case with resistive forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="20569" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T02:55:24.770" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T02:55:24.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17100" CreationDate="2014-09-09T09:43:59.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three good reasons why professional racing teams care about weight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hills&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Margins of victory are often VERY small&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Racers run in packs for aerodynamic reasons. If you can out-climb an opponent enough to drop him from your pack on a climb, then he probably won't catch up on the flat - because the he is working against air resistance and the power needed for a given speed is the SQUARE of that speed, making catching up very expensive in energy. So in long races hill climbs can be tactically decisive out of proportion to their length.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amateur racers, otoh, obsess about weight because that's what marketing people tell them to do. Weight reduction is expensive and a fraction of the cost would often buy a more significant advantage in eg lower rolling resistance tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T09:43:59.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24567" CreationDate="2014-09-09T09:55:29.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't need discs. You SHOULD fit decent wet weather brake pads - eg Kool Stop Pinks - and learn how to maintain cantis correctly (because most LBS's can't.) See eg &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure that you are riding tyres with good wet weather grip - it varies a lot. (Schwalbe give honest ratings for their tyres.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T09:55:29.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25059" CreationDate="2014-09-09T09:56:32.923" Score="2" ViewCount="1071" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently changed the speedometer on my bike, and had some problems to adjust the magnet on the spokes as well as the sensor. (The spokes are flat, and the magnet that came with the sensor was intended for round spokes. And there's not much clearance between the fork and the spokes.) But in the end I managed to get it up and running with a couple of mm gap between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However. When I accelerate hard or go up steep hills I notice that the magnet hits the sensor. Apparently the front wheel flexes significantly, even when I'm not standing up or pulling seriously at the handlebars. Is this normal? How much flex would one expect in the front wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a new CF road bike and the wheels are 'FSA Team 30', decent entry-level aluminium wheels, according to most reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T13:33:35.333" Title="How much should the front wheel flex" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24586" CreationDate="2014-09-09T10:37:02.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the spokes correctly tensioned? You shouldn't get several mm of flex from a new wheel just from climbing or accelerating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T10:37:02.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24575" CreationDate="2014-09-09T12:51:03.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &quot;Vintage&quot; attire, try your local second-hand or thrift store. They will likely have clothing and shoes that will pass muster, and for pennies on the pound. If you really want to go the extra mile, and have basic sewing skills, you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.appleblock.com/knickers.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;make your own knickers from wool slacks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comfort, I don't care how &quot;lycra-free&quot; and event is supposed to be, I am wearing a pair of standard bike shorts or a padded liner underneath my slacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T12:51:03.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-09T15:48:28.973" Score="2" ViewCount="3415" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current bicycle is a 2013 Specialized Allez C2. It has an 8 speed rear cassette. If I swap the current chainring (50/32) to a larger one (52/36 OR 54/39), other than the chain itself, what else would I need to change, if anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13701" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T04:18:15.397" Title="What needs to be changed if I put in a larger chainring?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24590" CreationDate="2014-09-09T15:55:15.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to first check that your front derailleur has enough &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ca-g.html#capacity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;capacity&lt;/a&gt; to handle the new chain rings and can clear it (i.e. you can re-position and adjust the front derailleur to handle these chainrings). You should refer to your front derailleur's data sheet to see if this is possible. In general, you also need to check the rear derailleur's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ca-g.html#capacity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;capacity&lt;/a&gt; to see if the rear derailleur is long enough to take up the extra possible slack, but in this case, the capacity required will go down for a fixed rear cassette, so you don't need to worry about it. You also need to make sure the chain adequately clears the frame under the new chainring size (which may require changing the bottom bracket or other things, if possible). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are some directions on adjusting the front derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T04:18:15.397" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T04:18:15.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-09T15:57:56.320" Score="2" ViewCount="1292" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current bicycle is a 2013 Specialized Allez C2. I'm thinking of using a conduit bender to bend the angle of the seat post two inches forward. A conduit bender can bend one inch for every 3 inches of pipe. I have 10 inches of seat post above the frame of the bike. Now, although the seat post is the cheapest part of the bike, and it can easily be replaced, does anyone foresee a structural problem with that alteration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13701" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T19:20:51.813" Title="Will bending the seat post two inches forward cause any unforeseen structural issues?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-09T16:05:53.407" Score="1" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current bicycle is a 2013 Specialized Allez C2. It has an 8 speed rear cassette. I'd like to put in a TT handlebar. It's a given that I'll have to change the brake levers, as well as the shifters and associated cables. Now, I spoke with a repair guy at Cynergy Cycles, and he said that there are no 8 speed front end bar shifters, so pretty much the whole drive chain would have to be replaced… I looked it up and found only one: a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-27921-shimano-ultegra-sl-bs64-shifter-road-pairs.aspx?variantID=91802&amp;amp;gclid=CPre5t-81MACFRVufgodwzUA5w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Ultegra SL-BS64 Shifter&lt;/a&gt;. Would that pretty much do the job? or would anything else need to be changed as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13701" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T18:19:02.307" Title="If I use an 8 speed bar end shifter with the TT bar on my Allez, will I need to change any other parts of the drive chain?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24592" CreationDate="2014-09-09T16:07:49.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are you are tying to achieve?  Is the bike too long for you?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bending a seatpost will weaken it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy offset seatpost.&#xA;Most people use them to move the seat back I cannot see why you could not use it to move the seat forward. &#xA;But you are not going to pick up two inches. &#xA;Two inches would put you almost straight over the pedals - are you sure that is what you want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you can get a shorter stem for the handle bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-09T16:14:03.700" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T16:14:03.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24593" CreationDate="2014-09-09T16:24:04.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much any 8 speed Shimano-compatible bar end shifter will work if you're running a Shimano drive train (If you're running SRAM, you'd obviously need a SRAM compatible one). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those will work, as will the ones from Microshift 8 speed among others. You'll need to re-run your cables, obviously, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T16:24:04.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24603" CreationDate="2014-09-09T17:07:17.053" Score="7" ViewCount="3128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have owned a bike for many years, it's a cheap one but it's perfectly fine.&#xA;Recently, I've bought a bike for my girlfriend, second hand from someone quite clueless about bike maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mine is 26&quot; front and rear suspension 2.125 tires, 3x7 gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hers is 26&quot; hardtail 1.95 tires, 3x6 gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I bought her bike I had to ride it home, a 15km ride, and after that I was exhausted.&#xA;I trued the wheels, aligned the brakes, did a little test ride and it was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend said it was much harder to ride than mine. I felt that too, but was not sure if it's just because it's hardtailed and the ride is much stiffer. Rode it today again, and it's really much more exhausting than riding mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels spin freely and don't have significant play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what should I check ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: &#xA;About geometry and fit, I can feel almost instantly that something is not right with the ride, but can't put my finger around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes are V-brakes. Both tires are chunky mtb tires. As I'm 35kg heavier than my girlfriend mine are pumped to 55 psi while her's to 45 psi. When the bike is upside down everything is as smooth as butter. Crank, chain, freewheel, spinning freely. Wheels are spinning for a long duration of time. All bits and bolts aligned and tightened so nothing moves, rubbing, catching under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As more testing was done, it seems the bike won't roll quite well as mine, while on my bike I can pedal some and roll some, on the same bit of road, on the other bike I won't stop pedaling in order to continue going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another clue is weird knocking sound with the rhythm of a car turn signal relay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now guess it's the hubs, but I hope its fixable by just overhauling and without replacing, have to get some cone wrenches to check them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fixed:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;It was the rear hub, whole assembly was loose, and the most shocking thing : there was one ball bearing missing on one side, 8 of 9 balls, I don't know how much it affects the performance but i'm sure its not recommended (ordered new bearings), even more, the freewheel assembly itself was loose as well, so I overhauled it too, it was a bit hard, lots of tiny balls but I managed it quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13703" LastEditorUserId="13704" LastEditDate="2014-09-14T11:15:05.870" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T00:57:24.727" Title="Got two bikes, one of them is more exhausting to ride, what can it be?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24598" CreationDate="2014-09-09T18:06:16.933" Score="11" ViewCount="3832" Body="&lt;p&gt;There were curbs before 1970s, right? I wonder whether everyone had to dismount or dramatically slow down before curbs until bunny hop and wheel lift became popular, I guess, in 1970s among first BMXers. Same with cyclocross: for decades, from its beginnings, riders always dismounted before barriers. But suddenly, inspired by BMX, they realized it's possible to simply jump over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: changed wording to underline that CX is much older than BMX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT2: I don't want to make you think that you need BMX bike to hop curbs. What I'm pointing to is that before BMX there was little mainstream attention to techniques like bunny hop (at least I got such impression), and after BMX got popular they spread throughout all cycling world. Though not many of us are skilled in jumping curbs, virtually everyone knows that can be done at ease by other riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T09:51:12.830" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T09:51:12.830" Title="How did cyclists get over curbs before BMX era?" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;history&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24597" CreationDate="2014-09-09T18:54:11.983" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;People were doing tricks on bicycles almost as soon as they were invented. While I couldn't find references about curb hopping in particular, I'm pretty sure that &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.scientificamerican.com/anecdotes-from-the-archive/2011/10/14/cycling-through-the-archives-trick-riding/&quot;&gt;these tricksters from the late 1800s&lt;/a&gt; wouldn't have had a problem pulling it off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclo-cross#Origins_and_history&quot;&gt;Cyclocross has roots that go almost as far back&lt;/a&gt;. The first organized cyclocross races were around the end of the 19th century and the first French National Championship was in 1902.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess that prior to BMX most people got over curbs the same way that most people get over curbs today. They slowed down a bit, lifted the front wheel over the curb, and leaned forward to get the weight off the rear wheel. Keep in mind, most cycling commuters can't pull off a decent bunny hop and many commuter bikes aren't designed to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-09-09T19:41:37.087" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T19:41:37.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24601" CreationDate="2014-09-09T19:08:18.690" Score="5" ViewCount="1709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Jamis Beatnik (love) and ride on the single-speed side of my hub.  I'm wondering - derailleurs seem to me like they might 'stress' the chain (even if only slightly) more than single-speed in the process of changing gears.  Are geared bikes' chains harder to maintain / shorter lived than single-speeds'? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Background: I noticed I hardly have to clean my chain on my single speed, and it always looks great and feels tight.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13705" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:02:23.723" Title="Do chains on single-speed last longer than those on geared bikes?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24592" CreationDate="2014-09-09T19:20:51.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about structural problems, but the bigger problem is that bending it two inches forward will likely throw off the angle of the mounting clamp more than you can overcome by readjusting it. You'd probably want to put a z-bend in it: two inches forward and then two inches back to level off the mounting clamp. And you don't have enough seatpost to pull that off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/need_zero_offset_(or_set_forward)_seatpost_ideas_P549481/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Some people&lt;/a&gt; seem to have luck running Thompson layback posts backward, but they only get about 2 cm of forward offset. You could try the same thing with a different brand of layback post, but you'd run the same risk of throwing the mounting clamp off too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest (and safest) thing to do is to buy a seatpost with a forward offset. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#safe=off&amp;amp;q=seatpost%20forward%20offset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quick Googling&lt;/a&gt; seems to turn up &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.profile-design.com/profile-design/products/seatposts/aluminum-seat-posts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Profile Designs Fast Forward&lt;/a&gt; seatpost as the most common option. According to the specs, you can get 38 mm forward shift out of it. Not quite the two inches you were looking for, but close. Pick up a slightly shorter stem and you'll be there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T19:20:51.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24599" CreationDate="2014-09-09T19:47:36.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Single speed last longer and cost less.  More metal and less (no) flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SS comes in 1/8 and 3/32. &#xA;I would contend a SS 3/32 of the same basic construction is stronger than a 3/32 7 speed because it does not need to be built to flex and it is not flexed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not finding any pictures of 3/32 SS chains and the chain on my SS bike is 1/8.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So I guess it is not really a straight comparison.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But a SS will take a 1/8 and geared will not so it is a fair comparison.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also SS is built to take the abuse of a fixie.  In a fixie the chain has to take the braking force and gets hammered.  Note the question is SS not fixie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T20:02:23.723" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:02:23.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24596" CreationDate="2014-09-09T22:14:57.450" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see 3 possible causes for the bike being more exhausting than it &quot;should&quot; be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1: Lack of (or incorrect) previous maintenance.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly you mention you bought it from a &quot;clueless&quot; person. It is likely that such person didn't knew when to take the bike to maintenance and was not very careful on how or where to keep it while not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bikes are factory packed with such types of grease and lubricants that in short time can gum-up, and cause a seizure-like effect instead of reducing friction. This happens particularly in low end bikes, where cheap grease is used, so it lets evaporate part of the oils leaving only a paste-like residue. This may not be evident when moving parts by hand, but a tiny amount of resistance in every axle adds up when riding. When this happens in the pedals and bottom bracket, the effect on the rider is very noticeable, still the bike is felt to roll freely, but heavy to pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix for this is a complete disassembly of the hubs, bottom bracket and pedals, cleaning completely the internals and reassembly with good, fresh grease. Of course this covers correct re-adjusting of hub cones, bottom bracket cones and pedal axle, etc. which may be currently over-tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain may also be suffering from this. You can change the chain or deep clean and re-lube it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2: Low end components too low&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bikes are produced with low quality components, which are not formed properly and are made out of incorrect materials. In particular, chainrings, bottom bracket and cogs. Low end ones are made of low grade steel which is heavy and kind of soft. The heavy part has an obvious effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The softness of the steel is a major problem. When bearing cups or cones are made of soft steel, the balls &quot;sink&quot; into them because the steel flexes a bit, creating resistance. Think of it like rolling a pool ball on a bed, versus rolling it on a proper table (which would be a bearing on proper steel). This effect is very subtle and can not be noticed when moving parts by hand, but when real load is applied (i.e. actually pedalling) it is greatly increased. A similar thing happens between mild steel chainrings and the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, poor quality components are often poorly machined, which means they do not have the right shape, just a very similar one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the main difference among low end components and reputable ones: the quality of materials and machining used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only remedy for this is to upgrade components. It is not necessary to break the bank, there are a lot of good, affordable components made by reputable makers, which can be a good option. For example, almost any Shimano component from the basic line will perform better than a generic brand-less component from a Walmart bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was my bike and I needed to make it easier to ride, I would upgrade bottom bracket, crankset and pedals first followed by cog set and finally hubs. (And I would do it progressively, not all at once and only if the bike frame is worth the effort).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3: Geometry and fitting Issues&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;A bike with different geometry can be more tiring to use. Besides this, a poorly fit bike makes the rider-bike system less efficient. The bike may have good geometry but be severely far from a proper fir for the rider, it may even be the incorrect size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a search for &quot;bike fit&quot; to check some critical points like saddle height, and effective top tube length, among others. If you can't adjust the bike to get it close to the recomended positions the bike may be too small/to large for the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other factors&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I have left this apart because it is kind of obvious but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if tires are properly inflated and in good shape. Tires at lower than recommended pressure generate more rolling resistance. A good tire can safely go up to the max pressure labelled on its side. If it doesn't seem to be able to hold up, then it may be too old and must be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check for rubbing brakes, or tire rubbing on frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T00:57:24.727" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T00:57:24.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24604" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-10T01:53:10.820" Score="6" ViewCount="2162" Body="&lt;p&gt;From reading another thread I'm pretty sure a spoke snapped on my way home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bicycle was fine and then right after turning left the rear tire came un-centred and started rubbing against the frame so much that I couldn't pedal home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I'm wondering what causes spokes to break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13707" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T06:22:03.760" LastActivityDate="2020-11-02T21:58:35.100" Title="Why do spokes break?" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24597" CreationDate="2014-09-10T01:56:58.063" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just pulled the front wheel up and dropped it as we went over the curb, then we kept riding, letting momentum pull the rear wheel over the bike.  It's what I still do.  (I don't have a BMX bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheesh.  So much fuss over a simple and second-nature action we never even gave a 2nd thought to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13708" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T01:56:58.063" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5641" CreationDate="2014-09-10T02:46:26.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same clicking problem. Found it to be the pedal bearing arrangement. The pedal relys on the mating of the tension bolt against the bearing (which is located on the outer side). Poor design. Once the bearing and pedal body begin to shift the mating surface starts to click. Solution...Loctite the bearing to the pedal body and file down the pedal body where the tightening bolt seats to allow for more tension on the mating surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13709" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T02:46:26.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24604" CreationDate="2014-09-10T02:48:22.600" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spokes break for the same reason any other material does: they are subject to stresses they are unable to withstand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of a wheel, it can be overloaded by rider weight, cargo, or forceful impacts. Additionally, the presence of loose spokes results in other, properly tensioned spokes bearing more of the wheel's load. Spokes are under tension, so loose spokes are subject to larger swings in stress as they are loaded and unloaded as the wheel rotates. This cycling fatigues the spoke material and can lead to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these can be compounded when the spokes are materially compromised from corrosion or other forms of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T06:18:12.347" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T06:18:12.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24597" CreationDate="2014-09-10T03:00:01.250" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that if you have a penny farthing, then hopping curbs really isn't much of a problem. You do have to be careful not to do an end-over but a bit of leaning back on the saddle or hooking your legs on the front bars would do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/09FpZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some various positions for penny-farthing MTBing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7Ytk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that solid rubber tires had an advantage over modern pneumatic tires in that you can't get pinch punctures on a solid!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T03:14:36.413" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T03:14:36.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24554" CreationDate="2014-09-10T03:13:11.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two types of brake anchor (one is plum-shaped, the other is barrel-shaped or cylindrical). If you have the wrong one at the brake end, it won't fit properly and will slide around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve this, some brake cable vendors sell their cables with both types of end anchors attached. You just use the end that you need and cut off (with a proper brake line cutter, not a pair of pliers) the end you don't need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gn4Lo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to put a ferrule on the cut end of the cable because it will unravel. DIY options include shrink wrap, a cork, an electrical crimp connector, tape (not personally recommended), string, wire, hot glue, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T17:39:42.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24613" CreationDate="2014-09-10T09:25:04.083" Score="4" ViewCount="11248" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are a french couple visiting the Netherlands (starting tomorrow) by bike. We have few questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;are there specific places / city where we have better chances to find cheap bikes ? (except amsterdam, since without bike it will be too big to start with). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;we heard about police bike auction but according to some website it seems reserved to the community or people whose bike was stollen, at least in Amsterdam and Hardenberg (which is understandable). Do you know if they is a website listing all the police auction dates (we can go anywhere in the Netherlands to buy the bikes)? We did try googleing this &quot;Fietsenverkoop bij politie + city-name&quot; (translate with google translate) but we didn't find any info except for the auction in Amsterdam, Hardenberg (where being french resident we can't go), and Groningen (the next auction is too late for us)? Are there other keywords we could use?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;what should we do if we find a good bike (not suspiciously cheap and from a private person : we found out about marktplaatz) without any serial number on it (in France there is no identification number on bike so we don't do if it's mandatory in netherlands to have a serial number, or if all the bikes have one). Is there a way to ensure it's not stolen? Would a photo of the ID card + the address of the seller will be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;are bikes cheaper in Belgium ?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot for your help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13597" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T07:31:23.347" Title="Netherlands: where to buy cheap bikes? (Police autions, cheapest towns)" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;europe&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-09-12T12:42:41.603" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24611" CreationDate="2014-09-10T10:00:40.280" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several places to avoid if you are looking for a cheap bike, and several places to seek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First to avoid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally bikes tend to be pricier / lower quality in all towns with a big university because demand is high and many bikes are &quot;consumed&quot; by the buyer. Lots of exchange students buy a bike and discard it after a year rather than resell it, and most other students use their bike untill it falls apart with as little maintenance as possible and discard the wreck. So you're less likely to find a good value bike here: Groningen, Enschede, Wageningen, Utrecht, Amsterdam, Nijmegen, Maastricht, Eindhoven, Tilburg, Delft, Leiden.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular bicycle shops (they usually charge a high markup for secondhand bikes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What to seek out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a counterpoint to the point about university towns above: in many of these university towns you get people who collect the wrecks and combine them into working bikes that they sell for a nice price. You'll find these people through marktplaats and they offer reasonably priced bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &quot;Kringloopwinkel&quot; or &quot;tweedehands winkel&quot; in whichever town you select (second hand store). They are quite often the party that receives &quot;left over&quot; bikes from the police and bikes removed for being &quot;in the way&quot; (which I explained in my answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24452/where-to-park-a-bike-during-a-year-for-free-in-the-netherlands&quot;&gt;your previous question&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marktplaats.nl/c/fietsen-en-brommers/c445.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.marktplaats.nl&lt;/a&gt; (with an &quot;s&quot;) is a good source of cheap secondhand bikes. There is no requirement for serial numbers on bikes though insurance companies sometimes require it. You should probably go with your gut feeling when going this route, I think legal sales are the norm there though. You can do two things to improve your odds of staying on the right side of the law:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check other ads on marktplaats from the same seller, check how long they have been a user on marktplaats longtime users are less likely to be fraudulent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dutch police has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mijnpolitie.nl/b/miocheck2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tool to find &quot;suspect&quot; sellers&lt;/a&gt;. Fill in the sellers' username and/or e-mail address there to check if &quot;reports&quot; have been filed about that user (bikes are in the category &quot;overig&quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your final question: I think the dutch market for secondhand bikes is very liquid and very large. My gut feeling tells me secondhand bikes will be better value in the Netherlands but I never tried buying a secondhand bike in Belgium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T11:01:27.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24712" CreationDate="2014-09-10T10:08:55.087" Score="6" ViewCount="7477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a market for new 700c road wheels and noticed that, in addition to usual clincher and tubular, some companies sell rims in hookless variant. They don't seem to be significantly lighter compared to clinchers (both listed as 400g by manufacturer of my choice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are benefits and drawbacks of hookless rims over clinchers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I've decided to leave the answer open until wheelset in question is built and tested, as my own experience might be enough for another answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T03:05:44.427" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T02:48:15.157" Title="Hookless rim benefits" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-10T10:45:22.440" Score="2" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Merida Matts TFS 600 and it has steel brake levers. As I have been all my life used to a plastic levers, I utterly dislike the feeling of the steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if is possible to get a pair of grips, that wrap the levers. If they are made from the same material, that would be optimal! I would not ask for anything more. I suppose that it is rubber, but I am not 100% sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am guessing correctly, the grips of my handlebar are these ones:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.veloplus.ee/en/product/grips-merida-tfs-grey-black-23729&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.veloplus.ee/en/product/grips-merida-tfs-grey-black-23729&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13713" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T14:07:05.010" Title="Brake lever grips" Tags="&lt;steel&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;&lt;grips&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-10T12:27:29.207" Score="2" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were to change the rear hub on your hypothetical or real zipp 808 wheel set to a large diameter internal gear hub like a shimano alfine or a rohlhoff hub would there be a measure able aero dynamic effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T13:04:56.210" Title="Does hub diameter or hub size have a notice able effect on the aerodynamic performance of a wheel set?" Tags="&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24617" CreationDate="2014-09-10T13:04:56.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There would be a measurable decrease in drag from removing external dérailleurs and gearing, however I would guess that the power loss through an internally geared hub would make such a setup slower rather than faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I have no sources for this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T13:04:56.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24615" CreationDate="2014-09-10T13:24:47.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grips will not wrap the brake levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have several options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a compatible brake lever which has plastic levers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wrap the brake levers in something (a few layers of heat shrink tubing, plasti-dip, a bit of plastic/vinyl tubing like you get for refrigerator water hoses, brake lever covers (they exist for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jcwhitney.com/lever-covers/c14741j1s17.jcwx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;motorcycles&lt;/a&gt;, so I suspect you can find them for bicycles), etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Live with the existing grips (metal levers aren't bad!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T14:07:05.010" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T14:07:05.010" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24620" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-09-10T13:50:50.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main distance events are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sprint (normally 400-600m swim, 16-20k bike and 5-6k run)  Olympic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1500m swim, 40k Bike and 10k run,  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Half Iron Man 1.2 mile swim, 56 mile bike and 13.1 mile run  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full Iron Man 2.4 mile swim, 112 mile bike and 26.2 mile run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While typically held in swim - run - bike order, in cold climates and cold weather the events may be reordered to hold the swim last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T20:41:51.350" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:41:51.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24621" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-09-10T13:50:50.923" Score="0" Body="The TRIATHLON is a three stage event consisting of a Swim, Bike and Run (at various distances). " OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T17:22:14.357" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T17:22:14.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15321" CreationDate="2014-09-10T13:59:40.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had deore xt hubs on my mtn bike, they were silent. I have rebranded Formula on my 2008 Bontrager Race Lites which have a nice clicky sound. Upon servicing I must have put too much grease in and it muted the sound. So perhaps there is a relationship between sound and pawl wear. I have DT Swiss star ratchet on my mtn bike now and they have an excellent sound IMO. Chris king hubs have a legendary sound, describe by customer quote &quot;It rolls good with angry bee sound&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9133" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T13:59:40.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24626" CreationDate="2014-09-10T18:45:57.493" Score="3" ViewCount="1422" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got very old (10+ years) Author Mystic bike. It has 26&quot; x 1,95&quot; tires with suggested pressure set to 2,9-4,5 bar. Currently I have inflated them to 3,4 bar. I'm around 120 kgs and riding on such tires brings no problems for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to start riding with my older daughter in bicycle child seat. She is less than 20 kgs (near border weight for that child seat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/10767/13716&quot;&gt;this Duru Can Celasun's question&lt;/a&gt; assured me, that in general my bike should handle our together weight of 140-150 kg without serious problems. Though, we may already talk about &lt;em&gt;overloaded&lt;/em&gt; bike with such weight of user.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, I'd like to ask, what would be perfect tire pressure for both my lonely rides (120-125 kg) and for together trips (140-150 kg)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13716" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T08:13:54.487" Title="Suggested tire pressure for an &quot;overloaded&quot; bike" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-10T18:52:30.177" Score="3" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had issues with noisey drivetrain and inconsistent shifting despite indexing adjustment.&#xA;I have found wear on the top jockey wheel cage, is this normal or should the chain not rub here?&#xA;Does this indicate a bent derailleur / hanger?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hAxWd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;derailluer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYPxZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13718" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T22:52:18.630" Title="Is wear on this derailleur pic normal?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24624" CreationDate="2014-09-10T19:02:03.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, the tire pressure range marked on the tire is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure&quot;&gt;somewhat loose&lt;/a&gt; - the marketing department wants a big range since it will sell better, the legal department wants a small range so liability is lower and the engineers have something probably bigger than whats marked on the tire as safe. Your tire pressure should be high enough that you don't get pinch flats but not give a harsh ride. The links in the recommendations show roughly what tire deflection should look like. Note that lower pressures are generally more comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;150 kg on a bike is a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; - most companies will mark this as higher than the max weight for their non-touring/cargo bike models (so you're on your own legally). That being said, I have carried a lot more on bikes marked significantly less, you're on your own with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for tire pressures which are best, you have to find this out on your own - its dependent on terrain you're riding over, your daughter's stomach, etc (and the best tire pressure (which is largely subjective, hence why I'm voting to close the question) will depend on the load on the bike so if you wanted one pressure, you'd have to trade off between the no daughter and daughter rides). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some recommendation &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf&quot;&gt;charts&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/inflation_pressure&quot;&gt;manufacturer recommendations&lt;/a&gt; to start with - tweak your tire pressures to your liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T19:02:03.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24629" CreationDate="2014-09-10T19:03:31.727" Score="3" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year I bought some Kreitler rollers and used them somewhat. The biggest problem I have is starting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 4.5-Inch Kreitler Alloy Rollers with Killer Headwind Fan Drums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a suggest on an easy way to start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T03:43:44.963" Title="Suggestions on learning to use Rollers" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-03-06T16:29:05.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24625" CreationDate="2014-09-10T19:05:26.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that yes, that indicates a bent derailleur.  A bent hangar would cause faulty shifting, but wouldn't cause wear like that.  That wear implies that the chain line off, and the chain is rubbing the derailleur cage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a chance you can just replace the cage/pulleys and fix the problem, but I'm not sure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remount the derailleur is there any visible misalignment?  The cage should be straight, and the pulleys should be in line with each other and should rotate in the same plane (e.g. they shouldn't be cock-eyed with respect to one another).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T19:05:26.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24627" CreationDate="2014-09-10T19:10:25.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem as you when I bought my rollers, the best advice is to place the rollers in a door frame. Start by holding onto the doorframe and get used to spinning with one hand on the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should always try to maintain a high cadence (and speed) when you first start, the momentum will help you balance. The plan is to pedal in a perfect circular motion, no pedal mashing! Focus is very important too, keep your body calm and try to focus into the distance to aid your balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, it'll take a few weeks to get used to it. But once you have, the benefits of rollers are incredible, you'll notice it on rides out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3559" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T19:10:25.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24029" CreationDate="2014-09-10T19:52:24.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is old but: get the Shimano freehub, no problems at all.  Zonda is a nice awheel set at a good price.  Hope you bought them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13719" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T19:52:24.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2014-09-10T20:13:35.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer messenger bags.  I currently use the Mission Workshop Rummy.  The strap is extremely comfortable (it must riding 30 miles per day) and I can fit more into this bag than most backpacks that are out there.  I've had the same issue with a much sweatier back with a backpack than i have with my messenger.&#xA;As for as it hanging to the side, a real messenger bag rides center of the back and a little lower than a backpack.  My messenger is also water proof unlike many of the backpacks available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13720" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:13:35.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-10T21:05:45.917" Score="3" ViewCount="6254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I carry a 15&quot; laptop, headphones, tablet and other misc items in my backpack during the bike ride. This makes me sweaty in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there 'breathable' backpacks specifically meant for bike riding that would reduce the sweatiness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13685" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T12:42:41.453" Title="Breathable backpack" Tags="&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-09-12T14:21:44.397" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24632" CreationDate="2014-09-10T21:31:08.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best chance of relief is a design that features many small pads on the back to help ( as best they can ) keep your back away from the heart of the pack and let some air circulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are just a few examples, but there are no doubt many more out there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/prodInfo.asp?pid=322&amp;amp;cid=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ortliebusa.com/prodInfo.asp?pid=322&amp;amp;cid=2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ospreypacks.com/en/product/commute_1/radial_34&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ospreypacks.com/en/product/commute_1/radial_34&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T21:31:08.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24632" CreationDate="2014-09-10T21:34:33.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest solution is to get the stuff off your back (put the backpack on a rack/basket or use panniers with a rack). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, lots of companies make &quot;active backpacks&quot; which are designed to prevent back sweat, usually with some extra spacers or something so that the backpack is not completely in contact with your back, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timbuk2.com/especial-cuatro-cycling-laptop-backpack/434.html?dwvar_434_size=12&amp;amp;dwvar_434_color=2001&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this timbuk2 bag&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Messenger bags also work to some extent, since they have lower contact area with your back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T21:34:33.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24639" CreationDate="2014-09-10T22:36:01.180" Score="3" ViewCount="1221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering why there is a torque specification on the steer tube end of the stem for mountainbikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The torque specification that goes to the handlebar is reasonable, after all handlebars are often made of lightweight materials and depending on the construction and the stem pressure distribution I might run in danger of crushing/cutting it. But the steer tube on mountainbike forks is usually very very solid aluminium, there is no way I could crush it. So why do some stems have torque specifications on the steer tube end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13722" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T01:30:13.940" Title="torque specification on headset" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24625" CreationDate="2014-09-10T22:52:18.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience it is usually the derailleur hanger that gets bent. After all derailleur hangers are built to be the weakest point so that in case something hits the derailleur neither the frame nor the derailleur is damaged. The hanger is just a 15$ part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a derailleur hanger alignment gauge, which bike shops use to check whether the hanger is bent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can even use this tool to bent the hanger back if it is only slightly offset. If you ask nicely and come with the derailleur unscrewed your lbs should check that for free, it only takes 2-3 minutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hanger is ok then the derailleur might indeed be bent. But the first thing to check is the hanger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(All this advice under the precondition that the derailleur was correctly mounted, adjusted and only matching components have been used (no 10 speed shifter on a 9 speed drivetrain, no different generations in the parts, only compatible SRAM/Shimano mixup, etc.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13722" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T22:52:18.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14780" CreationDate="2014-09-10T23:28:57.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;use a vaccum!!! works like a charm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13724" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T23:28:57.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24635" CreationDate="2014-09-11T00:13:44.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stem cap  torque specification is for safety and bearing tolerance. The cap provides a preload on the headset bearing. This preset is the point where there is minimal movement between the steerer tube and the headtube. At the same time the bearing is loose enough to allow free turning of the fork. This is why the top cap is adjusted prior to the bolts that clamp the stem to the steerer. If the preload is too light the bearing will move resulting in premature failure and possible frame damage. Too much preload will also cause early failure by overloading the bearing. The stem to steerer clamp bolts require an amount of torque sufficient to prevent movement but not so tight that the bolts are stretched to the point of being damaged. Since most stems are aluminum it is easy to overtighten the steel bolts to the point that the internal aluminum threads can damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T01:30:13.940" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T01:30:13.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24635" CreationDate="2014-09-11T00:28:49.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all easily understand the problems of under tightening a screw or bolt - if is too loose, things move, it ends badly and we know why. Most of us also know that too much torque can damage the components, and in extreme cases strip the thread of the fastener.  What many people do not understand is that bolts stretch when torqued. At the correct torque the bolt is elastic or springy, and is this elasticity that holds things together under vibration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An over torqued fastener can be stretched too far and loses elasticity long before it breaks or threads strip - at this point, the bolt may not continue to hold the surfaces tight under vibration, and can work loose. As the bolt has been stretched beyond its elastic ability, it will not return to its original size and essentially stuffed - however you cannot see this visually. Here in lies a big problem - it came lose, things come lose because they were too lose, so people assume it needs to be put on, just tighter. Unfortunately, that over tightened bolt (which is now stuffed) will only hold if it is over tightened even more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On cheap bikes with lots of steel (very forgiving material) and excess weight, its never a real issue - you can give a gorilla a power bar and not do much damage. The use of things like titanium and aluminium rather than steel for fasteners, along with the desire for weight savings means these components are designed with fine tolerances - hence its easy to over do it and the correct torque becomes critical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially if you bike is not a chain store special, over torquing will damage something - hopefully just the bolt that is easily and cheaply replaced. If you torque a bolt up to specification and it does not hold reliably, replace the bolt - no matter how tempting, do not over tighten it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T00:28:49.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24632" CreationDate="2014-09-11T07:31:33.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing works as well as panniers for keeping your back dry, that said, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deuter.com/CA/ce/bike-1794.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deuter backpacks&lt;/a&gt; have an &quot;AirMesh&quot; that places a mesh wire (laminated) against your back with space between the backpack itself and your back for improved air circulation.  It works reasonably well as I used this with a laptop for a few years until I smartened up and went with panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ViMF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Deuter 3D Airmesh&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T07:31:33.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15867" CreationDate="2014-09-11T09:58:16.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding position depends on different things, of which the bike is just one. The distance between the saddle and the handlebars combined with the the length of your body and your arms limits the options you've got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the kind of cycling you do is just as important. When riding around town, especially in crowded places and/or when not being in a hurry the best thing to do is to sit straight up. It allows you to make short turns, it's easier to stop, it's easier to look around you and allows you to talk to the person riding beside you. (With some practice you take you hands of the handlebars and still steer with just your balance and stand still on your bike without getting a foot on the ground). You need your saddle to be somewhat below your handlebars, but still at a height where you don't have to bend your knees to far. This basically is the way the Dutch cycle around town. It works when you treat cycling as an alternative to walking around instead of a sporting activity or a way to go fast. (Because, when moving around on your feet you're not running all the time either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging from the image your bike seems suitable for that, the pedals seem to be slightly more forward then a road bike, which will push you a bit straighter up anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go faster you can lean more forward, but depending on the length of your body that might get a bit cramped. If that's an issue you could but an armrest &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietsweb.nl/productimages/JD/Triathlon-opzetstuur-JD-1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt; on the handlebars allowing you to lean further forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13729" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T09:58:16.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24646" CreationDate="2014-09-11T10:10:49.060" Score="1" ViewCount="878" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are 2 french hitchhikers looking for 2 second-hands brompton folding bike (M6R, black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are ready to hitchhike to get them anywhere in UK, Belgium, NL or Germany for a &quot;reasonable&quot; price. Logically the UK should be the best place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are looking for specific shops name that would have for sure some stock when we will arrive because it will be quite a challenge just to get there (hitch-hiking), and for the same reason nearly impossible to run after private offers (without taking into account the risk of concealment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you seen more than 4 of them in a single spot, in which country, which city? Any advice will be warmly welcomed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps: we chose this brand because the size matter a lot for us. We just could not find anything else we could carry on our hitch-hiking trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13731" LastEditorUserId="13731" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T11:07:56.693" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T12:29:19.657" Title="Brompton: where to find the higher supply of second-hand bikes in UK, or anywhere in Europe?" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;&lt;brompton&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-09-11T13:38:27.237" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24647" CreationDate="2014-09-11T12:01:32.300" Score="6" ViewCount="1943" Body="&lt;p&gt;As i'm going to overhaul my hubs, i'm looking for the right grease for the job.&#xA;The easy way would be going to a shop and buy some dedicated grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But searching through my garage, I found that i already have two types of grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rivolta S.K.D. 4002 -even found a pdf - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nescotech.ee/358eng.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.nescotech.ee/358eng.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some unknown red colored grease (not original package), only thing I know about it is that i got it from a factory that is making taps and metal tubing with high pressure press machinery, and it was standing in a cabinet outside in the sun heat and winter cold for 15 years, and it has decomposed a tiny bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;both have almost same thickness, the red one is slightly thinner (estimated by eye and touch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you can't use any grease you want, so here I am asking for your opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13704" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T21:26:53.093" Title="Hub grease, white grease, red grease or buy grease?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24644" CreationDate="2014-09-11T12:29:19.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you'll be in the Netherlands any time soon, many used bikes are sold via www.marktplaats.nl. There are also a lot of addvertisements from shops, including these to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marktplaats.nl/a/fietsen-en-brommers/fietsen-vouwfietsen/a1000220115-het-adres-voor-uw-brompton-ook-titanium-modellen-voorradig.html?c=8c285449651fa109c354bbabe740c1b&amp;amp;previousPage=lr&amp;amp;casData=EjuiBbJSjW-rDhuiGGiywQ0pRouWEgcd3jE0YvdUVlNcsDVm9ZXKwLYa1_d0-ez6gXGQ1sv6ZkdJ8PhchS_eh0iwBSMK0I1LazEBN3AwSQdVWXOdQk9-er3aF2uOYAWFuH_GS7bK8i_-DMeCO95yFW_PC6JVG4nNoDm1TN19DiWNqpYgI5Zo3FaNltTrrCSQI8MMS13xL-8XD8uHBInFuA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Advertisement 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marktplaats.nl/a/fietsen-en-brommers/fietsen-vouwfietsen/a1001679962-brompton-vouwfiets-specialist-tilburg-en-omstreken.html?c=8c285449651fa109c354bbabe740c1b&amp;amp;previousPage=lr&amp;amp;casData=EjuiBbJSjW-rDhuiGGiywQ0pRouWEgcdCV4rXjOPgQEwOoHg0K8TWuA3SEaMsiLHtzN1PyY1YvvjJ0dYgb5bZZ0neMOSCoZhcL1zNnwn824_bbN-0xtw6TqgOzA0J3Wkfr5QJF5TT4GM3hLIdvfBtJWTz4NRWk_FJ2JWq7YcfhQVgklqfcH1iOMC9yrI_7Qr6VSmT2mUuhdDsFcZO-uOIw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Advertsiement 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second one has some 2013 M6R Black bikes.&#xA;I don't have experience with these shops. I do often use marktplaats.nl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T12:29:19.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24645" CreationDate="2014-09-11T12:36:27.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the Rivolta grease and you will be fine. &#xA;Most important is that it is dense enough, will last over time, stays fluid in low temperature and that it is somewhat water resistance. According to the pdf, the Rivolta will do all those things very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T12:36:27.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24611" CreationDate="2014-09-11T13:01:15.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want to be sure the bike isn't stolen: The Dutch Police also has a tool called &lt;a href=&quot;https://fdr.rdw.nl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fiets diefstal register (fdr)&lt;/a&gt;. All bikes that are reported stolen to the police are put in this register. You can either search for a chipnumber which can be found on higher quality locks (long number starting with 999 or 975), or you can search for the framenumber, which all Dutch bikes have (mostly under the bracket). If the bicycle is not in this database, it is not reported as stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wan't to buy a good and cheap bike, but you don't know a lot about bikes: buy a bicycle from marktplaats.nl, and stick to the quality brands (Dutch: Gazelle, Batavus, Sparta; or international: Giant, Trek, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T13:01:15.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24546" CreationDate="2014-09-11T13:14:04.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These crancks are still very common on Dutch vintage bicycles. You can order them from many Dutch websites starting at about 6 euro's. All Dutch bicycle shops can order such a cranck at every wholesaler. Many even have such a cranck on stock. You may want to look for a Dutch website which is willing send it to the UK before you replace everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This cranck is called a 'cranck met spie' (cranck with spie) in Dutch. If you find one, make sure the lenght and thread are the same as yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: there you go: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.internet-bikes.com/en/index.php?p=636&amp;amp;id=7997&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;. Still check whether the length and thread are the same though. And buy a new wedge from the same website, don't use the old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When mounting such a cranck, don't try to get the wedge further in the cranck by screwing the nut tighter. Grease everything, and use a hammer to get the wedge in the cranck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't know if wedge is the correct word. Is gusset or forelock better?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9140" LastEditorUserId="9140" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T13:52:40.797" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T13:52:40.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24632" CreationDate="2014-09-11T15:01:50.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the backpack I use. I live in Minnesota so we need to worry about hot 30c and cold -30c - This backpack breaths well, but of course you will sweat when it is 30c. This works for everyday use as well as bike commuting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/82x5h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T15:01:50.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24632" CreationDate="2014-09-11T16:19:09.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a breathable backpack from Vaude. It helps a bit, but if you get sweaty during the ride, your shirt still gets wet with sweat wherever the straps are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Panniers work much, much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T16:19:09.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24653" CreationDate="2014-09-11T16:34:43.680" Score="3" ViewCount="2143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love biking. And I also love maintaining my bikes. This is the first time I've gotten a single speed road bike, specifically &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004GWP6CK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, for maintenance purposes, what should I look out for? I've considered getting a truing station, but I'm not too sure that's something I need to worry for a single speed road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8276" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T23:24:56.337" Title="Maintenance for a single speed bike" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24652" CreationDate="2014-09-11T16:45:44.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need to maintain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tyres, chain, brakes; less frequently, chain ring, freewheel (or sprocket); even less frequently, bottom bracket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their beauty is their simplicity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By all means get the kit to true your wheel, but that again is something that I'd lump in the &quot;even less frequently&quot; category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T16:45:44.807" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14780" CreationDate="2014-09-11T17:28:42.523" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a nipple came off, what happened to the loose spoke? Have you been riding with one spoke missing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the case, then you have to get that fixed some time, and for that you will have to remove the tire ans the rim strip, getting access to the holes through which the nipples are installed in the first place. You then replace the nipple with a new one as you install the replacement spoke. (If it came of there is a huge possibility either the spoke or nipple threads where damaged in the incident).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you got the spoke replaced already, then the nipple must have been removed at the time, if not, well, the only doable thing would be precisely remove the tire and rimstrip just to take the nipple out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply consider that the nipple's head is bigger than any hole in the outside wall of the rim (the one that is visible even with the tire installed) , except for the valve hole, so there is no way of taking it out without removing at least the valve, (and there is not a single technique known to me to remove a valve that does not need removing also the tire), so I would save the mental exercise and just take the tire off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T01:39:35.037" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T01:39:35.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24656" CreationDate="2014-09-11T19:05:28.937" Score="2" ViewCount="878" Body="&lt;p&gt;My road bike tire is damaged because of some biketrap I fell into. After a month I got a flat while riding. I found this hole at the damaged area while repairing the puncture on inner tube. After pumping some air the inner tube is popped out from this hole. I put folded piece of paper inside to prevent another flat until I get home but I dont think that will hang on a bit more.  Any longtime solution to last it longer would be helpful. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wke0J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13735" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T20:58:17.587" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T21:52:14.833" Title="Are there any permanent solutions for holes smaller than 1cm on outer tyre?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24655" CreationDate="2014-09-11T20:23:06.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be surprised how long your paper patch lasts. I've used dollar bills, empty energy gel packs and they have lasted quite a long time, but now carry Park Tool Tire Boots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have an adhesive and attach to the inside of your tire and stay put, even if you get another flat and have to change tubes. I've found that the money or paper solution will move or fall out of place without the pressure of the tube to hold it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able find the Park Tool Tire Boots at any local bike shop, but here is a link to Amazon: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000YBGJRS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool TB-2 Emergency Tire Boot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T20:23:06.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24655" CreationDate="2014-09-11T21:38:42.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always carry a spare inner tube AND a cheap small tire patch kit, plus 2 CO2 cartridges with me when I ride. That way, in theory, I can fix up to two flats on a ride. The tire patch kits go bad over time, so I replace them regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, I have used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/item/747197/novara-patch-kit?cm_mmc=cse_PLA-_-pla-_-7471970017&amp;amp;mr:trackingCode=A68B071B-81F9-DE11-BAE3-0019B9C043EB&amp;amp;mr:referralID=NA&amp;amp;mr:device=c&amp;amp;mr:adType=pla&amp;amp;mr:ad=53280763120&amp;amp;mr:keyword=&amp;amp;mr:match=&amp;amp;mr:filter=70389950920&amp;amp;msid=0yublC6w_dc%7Cpcrid%7C53280763120%7C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;time patch kit&lt;/a&gt; to repair tire cuts much more often than I use it to fix a second flat. The patch stays in place regardless of tire pressure, prevents road dirt from working its way through the tire &lt;em&gt;(into the space between tire and tube- where it can cause another flat)&lt;/em&gt;, and can help stop rips or cuts from spreading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fixed tires this way and forgotten about the fix, riding 300 - 500 miles before remembering that I needed a new tire. It's pretty effective and has some advantages over the dollar bill fix. Plus you can use it to fix a tube! But remember you still need a new tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T21:38:42.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24652" CreationDate="2014-09-11T23:24:56.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have tools for other bikes the tools specific to SS are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;freewheel remover&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wrench for rear axle&lt;br&gt;&#xA;it is just standard size but if you going to put one in your bag they have carry wrenches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain tool needs to be beefy enough for 1/8 (most are not)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T23:24:56.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24671" CreationDate="2014-09-11T23:47:09.647" Score="0" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a 24 speed bike with 3 gears on front (Cranks PROWHEEL 48/38/28T) and 8 on the rear. I rode it today and when I was moving the front gear to 3 to move the chain to the large ring I have to press the shifter hard and it does not always work. Sometimes when I move it from 1 to 2 that also does not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you suggest what might be wrong and how to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T12:48:44.287" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T03:19:58.780" Title="Problem with changing to high gear on the front derailleur on my new Bianchi Spillo Rubino Altus Rigid" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-12T00:44:58.573" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am absolutely lost in the world of bicycles!  I have long ridden a MTB, but now I am a good 16kms(10+ miles) away from work.(where I wish to commute too) and i just need more speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confused by bike talk around &quot;geometries&quot;, I want a bike that will handle pretty rough roads/bike paths but one that is a lot quicker than a mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be great if I could use my bike in amatuer level triathlons or cyclocross style racing, but it needs to be comfy enough for day to day riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas where I should start?  I want to spend less than US$2000.  I'm a 6ft guy with average reach&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13737" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T01:51:46.843" Title="How do I go about choosing a bike for commuting?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;advice&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-09-12T14:18:21.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24660" CreationDate="2014-09-12T01:51:46.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are asking a lot from one bike - commuting on rough roads, triathlon and cyclocross (CX)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would choose a &lt;strong&gt;hybrid bike&lt;/strong&gt; (like a Cannondale Bad Boy, though there are many to choose from) based on the following characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Larger 700c wheels that make them more efficient/faster than a Mountain bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wider rims and tyre choices that make them stronger than Road/Racers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat handlebars similar to a Mountain bike for a more upright position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good range of gears to handle varied terrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Often have suspension forks for comfort (though if too cheap, can be more hindrance than help).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When fitted with disc brakes, have good stopping power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hybrid bike would be a good fit if the majority of your riding is going to be commuting and comfort is a key driver in your decision. It will be quicker than a mountain bike (assuming 26&quot; wheels and knobbly tyres), though not as fast as a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A road bike would be faster still, but a more aggressive aero riding position to get used to and you'd probably wreck the wheels riding CX. A CX bike could give you a position similar to the road bike, but is also designed more with racing than comfort in mind. I think CX is a bit more specialised and therefore I speculate you are likely to find less choice and possibly higher prices compared to other bikes of a comparable specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can choose the best tyre width/tread/compound and pressure for the job at hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;roads&lt;/strong&gt; and cycle paths, a smoother rolling tyre inflated to a higher pressure. Possibly some puncture protection if the roads are on the rough side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;triathlon&lt;/strong&gt;, you could select narrower slick tyres pumped even harder for less rolling resistance. Perhaps consider some clip-on aero bars. I've seen a right mix of equipment out there - people on very cheap full-suspension bikes with knobbly tyres doing triathlons, but I think they like the challenge and make things hard for themselves!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;CX&lt;/strong&gt;, you could pick a slightly wider tyre with a more knobbly tread and perhaps run at a slightly lower PSI if you need more grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T01:51:46.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-12T02:19:56.873" Score="7" ViewCount="1761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regularly race Duathlons and Triathlons. When I am off the bike and running my calves are like rocks for the first mile. I have been told to try to flatten by foot and not &quot;Point&quot; my toes down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Speedplay pedals.&#xA;I have regular Specialized Road shoes (Stiff soles)&#xA;I ride a road bike (Gary Fisher Cronus)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: Should I always try to pedal flat and without my toe pointed down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastEditorUserId="9039" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T12:20:09.187" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T12:20:09.187" Title="Foot position on pedal" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24662" CreationDate="2014-09-12T02:47:26.333" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most people find the bike-to-run transition quite difficult while the legs adjust from going in a circular motion to running. Particularly for longer distance courses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an interesting article from a renowned triathlon athlete/coach:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2007/01/cleat-position.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.trainingbible.com/joesblog/2007/01/cleat-position.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article discusses the merits of putting your cleat towards the rear of your foot / under the arch vs the more traditional ball-of-foot location. Having re-located the cleat to the arch of his foot, Joe (the author) found that his performance improved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving the cleat towards the rear of the foot engages the larger quads and glutes muscles, taking the strain off the calf and leaving you fresher for the run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So perhaps you should give it a whirl? The article references a Speedplay adaptor that enables this cleat position, though I haven't seen it myself. As comments underneath the article identify, there may be a need to adjust your position on the bike as pedalling with arch of your foot will bring you forward slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is at least one other question on this forum that relates to this topic: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7433/why-not-place-the-cleats-further-back-on-the-foot&quot;&gt;Why not place the cleats further back on the foot?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've added some of the information contributed by others here (as well as some more of my own thoughts/interpretation) that I think is relevant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is an increased risk of your toe colliding with the front wheel. However, this is only really an issue when turning at low speeds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A mid-foot cleat/pedal position may be more suited to steady-state events (TT, Triathlon, etc), rather than for sprinting or criteriums where rapid changes of pace occur. Not sure whether there is scientific reasoning to support this, or if it is just some riders' preference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving your cleat in this manner (or any other significant change to your ride mechanics, for that matter) is likely to require time for your muscles to adapt to the new position. Incremental changes are likely to reduce the risk of injury associated with changing your ride mechanics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T05:45:12.807" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24627" CreationDate="2014-09-12T03:43:44.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a set of Cyclops rollers a few years back and it was scary to say the least when I started riding on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too was trying the door-frame technique, but I felt it to be dangerous in case I fell and could not grab onto the door frame in time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I simply watched a few videos on YouTube and learned the best way was to start riding with the rollers next to a wall, with about 20cm gap between the edge of the rollers and the wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I placed the bike onto the rollers but leaned it downwards towards me, so I could saddle my left leg (assuming wall is on your left) over the bike. I then clipped on my left foot first and whilst holding the breaks firmly in place, I sat myself up and clipped on my right foot into the last pedal. At this point I am actually leaning against the wall slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my left hand on the wall, I started to pedal (yes, set the gears to low resistance before starting, so you pedal with high cadence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the point of no return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let go of the wall! And do it sooner rather than later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quickly place your hands on the levers as you would normally and look over the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will naturally balance as you pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a while you'll get used to it and think, why were you so scared trying in the first place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some guys on YouTube can do amazing things with rollers, riding one foot, standing on seat, etc. I wouldn't dare!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T03:43:44.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24662" CreationDate="2014-09-12T03:45:20.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many factors to consider. Without being able to be scientific about it, people do evolve a natural pedal technique and I don't see the point in trying to radically change it, rather you should first have your bike fit and set up performed properly, and then allow your own natural style to evolve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been major cycling champions that were toe down, heel down and neutral in the way they pedalled. Neither is right or wrong, provided the bike fit is good to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My local bike fit specialist has written about it, and it's worth a read. Lots of art in the subject, some science.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/04/power-to-the-pedal-cleat-position/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/04/power-to-the-pedal-cleat-position/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider your own circumstances and individual issues, and don't forget that cleat placement has several degrees of freedom (fore/aft, inner/outer Q factor, rotational, height above pedal axle, as well as amount of pedal float) and each plays a role in how you adapt, as well as the shoes, cranks and pedal system you use. Of course saddle height and placement impacts these things as well well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastEditorUserId="13358" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T06:22:46.793" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T06:22:46.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24611" CreationDate="2014-09-12T06:35:16.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Amsterdam, bikes collected by the city (gemeente) are stored in the fietsdepot. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amsterdam.nl/parkeren-verkeer/fiets/fietsdepot/english_information/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Summary information is available in English&lt;/a&gt;. I would call them to get the latest and most accurate info, but according to their website, the bikes can be purchased in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If one has a Stadspas, which is a city pass obtainable by lower income folks, then you can go to a particular bakeshop, Pantar, and get one with a lock and lights for €55.-&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If one is a student, then you can contact the Algemene Studenten Vereniging Amsterdam (ASVA - a general student society).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, the grapevine's rumor led me to believe that they also sell off bikes once a year; again, I'd call the fietsdepot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're near a &lt;a href=&quot;http://macbike.nl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MacBike&lt;/a&gt; rental store, they give a slight discount on rentals (10% I believe) if you're a resident. They also &lt;a href=&quot;http://macbike.nl/tweede-handen-ex-verhuur/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sell their old rental bikes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8318" LastEditorUserId="8318" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T07:31:23.347" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T07:31:23.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24632" CreationDate="2014-09-12T06:46:52.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use this one: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vNmIJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More images here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://duckduckgo.com/?q=quechua+forclaz+22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://duckduckgo.com/?q=quechua+forclaz+22&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a breathable back and a special hole for water bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4007" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T06:46:52.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-12T07:53:48.107" Score="3" ViewCount="2298" Body="&lt;p&gt;Up til now I have ridden with Strava running on my mobile phone sitting in a special mobile phone holder which sits up on my handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am looking for a better solution, both more aerodynamic for my new bike, and also with longer battery life (My present phone only lasts 2 hours with gps running).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I select the lightest / best device that runs Strava? It obviously needs to be GPS capable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What features do I look for? Is it a smart phone? A smart watch? A garmin device?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The device being light, comfortable, reliable and able to record rides of 4 hours or more would be ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11241" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T08:09:22.337" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T08:09:22.337" Title="How do I choose a light GPS device supporting Strava?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;&lt;strava&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-09-12T12:41:47.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24668" CreationDate="2014-09-12T08:49:44.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'best' is fairly subjective and probably not compatible with lightest. For what it's worth I remember reading somewhere that the Edge 510 is widely used through the pro peloton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a Garmin Edge 810 and would recommend it in an instant but it is possibly bigger than it needs to be if you're very worried about weight and size (I chose it for its navigation and live tracking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the smaller scale, the Garmin Edge 200 or slightly larger 510 might work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the Cateye Stealth 10 (or 50 if you want Cadence) are supposed to be highly rated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be surprised if any of them struggled with lasting far longer than 4 hours. My 810 handles 5 hour rides with about 50% battery left and that's using bluetooth for live tracking for the whole ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside of a pocket type GPS tracker is that you don't get the data (like speed, cadence) in front of you while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastEditorUserId="6726" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T09:14:23.123" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T09:14:23.123" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24632" CreationDate="2014-09-12T12:42:41.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mec.ca/product/5030-417/mec-air-hike-16-backpack-mens/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MEC Air Hike&lt;/a&gt; backpack that I use when I'm on my bike that doesn't have racks.  They seem to have changed the design a bit since I bought it. Mine has smaller bumps on the back all over the back. Looks like this new design offers even more breathability.  This backpack also has a somewhat stiff back, which I find great for cycling.  You can just throw stuff into the pack, and don't have to worry about it jabbing you in the back.  The waist belt and chest strap help keep it from flopping around on your back.  Mine is also hydration compatible. Too bad they don't appear to sell that model anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dd2mo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T12:42:41.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24659" CreationDate="2014-09-12T20:43:14.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to adjust your front dérailleur/cables/shifter, there are multiple tutorials for this on the internet if you are mechanically inclined and have basic tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can pay for your LBS (local bike store) to fix it for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this youtube video for good effect a few times:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/42_tKpE6PhI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, with top of the line brand new components it is much easier than potentially old and rusty equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T20:43:14.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24655" CreationDate="2014-09-12T20:58:07.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dollar bill trick is good for getting home, but eventually the linen fibers will wear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make your own tire boots by scrounging a tubular tire.  Cut out a 7cm by 3cm rounded rectangle, and peal off the tread if you can.  I found one in the trash at a local bike store three decades ago and I've only used a small portion of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To glue it in place, find some contact cement that has the word FLAMABLE on it, because then you know that it has solvents that will soften the surface rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T20:58:07.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24655" CreationDate="2014-09-12T21:52:14.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will probably sound crazy, but I sewed up a tear in the sidewall with fishing line once.  Lasted six months at least, running at full pressure on my daily commute (7 miles round trip).  If I had made my seam about 1/4 inch longer than the tear on each end of the tear, it would've lasted even longer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be sure you're threading into the unfrayed portion of the tire's fabric.  And this obviously would only work on the sidewall, if at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6796" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T21:52:14.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24692" CreationDate="2014-09-12T22:15:48.613" Score="1" ViewCount="772" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife recently upgraded her pedals to LOOK carbon and we were very nicely walked through all the different types of pedals from $100-$400. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was amazed to see how hard it was to spin the cheap pedals (Is $100 cheap?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She settled on the $250 version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: Will it really made a difference for pedaling or are the more expensive pedals just lighter and smoother? I am thinking that the $100-150 would have been fine. The friction created by the cheap pedals can't be that much where it actually encumbers your riding? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9039" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T18:20:06.973" Title="Pedal bearings (friction and spinning)" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25324" CreationDate="2014-09-12T22:29:39.223" Score="3" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old mavic race rear wheel where the hub is rusted, but the spokes and rim is in prime condition. Thinking about changing just the hub (reusing spokes) to a fixed flip-flop to use the wheel on a project bike. Doesn't have to be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hunt for the correct rear hub for the operation, has led me to a couple of questions and a checklist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounting width is easy (normally 120mm or 135mm).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Axle width affects the chainline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of spokes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flange diameter affects the spoke length (+ stiffness of wheel).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point I'm most concerned about is the flange diameter. The old hub has a pretty low flange and all fixed hubs has high flange. Also drive-side of the old hub looks like it uses shorter spokes then the left side. Is this conversion event doable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13739" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T23:01:01.673" Title="Replace hub from old cassette to new fixed" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23721" CreationDate="2014-09-13T00:45:18.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;By day 3 of my first long bicycle tour I realized how much stuff that I thought was essential was not. I ended up shipping stuff home, giving it away, and whatever else I could do. I would recommend that you skip the chair - even if it's lightweight, it's going to take up precious space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T00:45:18.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-13T03:25:11.773" Score="2" ViewCount="3414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to gain a little extra space on my handlebars and I do not use these brakes, so I was wondering if anyone knew of a way to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spec is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Brake Levers  Shimano 2300 w/ Tektro RL720 Top Bar Levers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbQCO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13748" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-09-13T23:41:17.247" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T23:41:17.247" Title="How can you remove the interrupter (top bar) levers from the Giant Avail 5?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;interrupter-brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24677" CreationDate="2014-09-13T08:20:52.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To remove the crosstop levers from the bar tops you will have to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the inner brake cables&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the bar tape&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the brake cable housing between the main brake levers and the crosstop levers and the crosstop levers and the front brake / frame boss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remmove the crosstop levers from the bar (they should be held on by a simple clamp with 1 allen bolt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Install new lengths of cable housing between the main brake levers and the front brake / frame boss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-install the inner brake cables and re-wrap the bars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4260" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T08:20:52.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24682" CreationDate="2014-09-13T09:47:30.767" Score="1" ViewCount="2733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new set of tires (Continental UltraRace 25-622 700x25c) for my bike, which has rims Rigida 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/8 - 700c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I inflate the inner tube (both a Schwalbe 28&quot; 18/28-622/630 and a Bontrager 27x7/8-1, 700x18-25c, and for both sizes to pressures 2 and 4 bars) the tire doesn't inflate in a symmetric way. The final result is that the whole of the wheel is not true (i.e. a perfect circle) even though the rim is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause for it? The natural answer would be the difference in size between rims and tires, but the old tires (Wolber 25_622, 700 -25c) didn't have such a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13752" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T02:06:07.390" Title="What could cause an inflated tire to be &quot;untrue&quot; on a true rim" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2014-09-13T10:19:26.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; work in the specific case of a Sram CX1 rear derailleur, or the case of any other X-Horizon™ mechanisms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased the CX1 derailleur and attempted with a 46/39 front chainring combo. The CX1 RD allows the front shift to occur, but has no tolerance for changes in chain length (&lt;em&gt;e.g. front shifting&lt;/em&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The change in chainring size impacts the upper-pulley distance from the cassette cogs. Adjusting the B-limit for one chainring size results in a bad configuration with another chainring size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ee0WX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="945" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T10:19:26.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24680" CreationDate="2014-09-13T12:11:15.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three posibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tire is defective (least likely).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tire is simply not settling onto the rim properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You managed to twist/pinch the tube while installing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you twisted/pinched the tube then there will be low spots, where the tire does not seem to inflate fully.  If you suspect this, of course, remove and reinstall the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're convinced the tube is not twisted, slowly inflate the tire while you inspect the junction between tire and rim, all around on both sides.  (There is generally a rib on the tire sidewall positioned such that it will be about 1/8&quot; from the rim edge all around when the tire is perfectly centered.)  With your hands, &quot;work&quot; the tire one direction or the other to keep this distance equal all around as you slowly inflate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes tires are hard to get seated properly when new (because, eg, they were hanging on a hook in the shop for months), but quickly &quot;take a set&quot; and are no trouble if you have to dismount/remount the tire later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll add that sometimes the problem is that the thickened portion of the tube near the valve has gotten caught between the tire bead and the rim.  This will prevent the tire bead from seating on the rim hook properly in the vicinity of the valve.  The solution is to completely deflate the tube, then press the valve most of the way in with your finger while you manipulate the tire in the area of the tube.  This should cause the &quot;captured&quot; part of the tube to work loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T02:06:07.390" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T02:06:07.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24685" CreationDate="2014-09-13T14:49:00.083" Score="2" ViewCount="4239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I inspected the tires of the bike and found their size: 700 x 40  - 28 x 1 5/8. Which probably means, that the diameter is 28 inches and the tire width is 40 mm (I measured with a ruler).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found, that people recommend SKS Chromoplastic fenders and they have many sizes: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKS-Chromoplastic-Road-Racing-Bike-Mudguards-P35-Black-/380993168162?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&amp;amp;hash=item58b4f66322&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKS-Chromoplastic-Road-Racing-Bike-Mudguards-P35-Black-/380993168162?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&amp;amp;hash=item58b4f66322&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seller says, that the fender is for 700C (which is probably my size), but the width is not specified. Maybe, 'P35' means 35mm tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I select the fender exactly for 40mm or buy a little bigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13656" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T16:03:08.777" Title="How to select the fenders for my bike" Tags="&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24683" CreationDate="2014-09-13T16:03:08.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mudguards can be measured in a few different ways, so different brands may vary. And it seems the SKS model numbers and names have recently changed, so some websites may still refer to the old names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For SKS Chromoplastic, 'P35' refers to the width of the mudguard. For it to fit, the guard has to be a bit wider than the tyre, probably at least 5mm more. From the SKS website, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sks-germany.com/?l=en&amp;amp;a=product&amp;amp;r=mudguards&amp;amp;i=999999999&amp;amp;CHROMOPLASTICS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chromoplastic 35mm&lt;/a&gt; is designed to fit a 700 x 20-28 tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for a 40mm tyre, you should look for a 50mm mudguard. Or a bit wider if your tyre is particularly wide or knobbly. SKS do make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/sks-chromoplastic-road-mudguard-set/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chromoplastic P50&lt;/a&gt; (also known as 'Hybrid' size), designed for 38-45mm tyres, so that would fit fine. Or another option would be the SKS Bluemel B53, which is 53mm wide so fits 700 x 38-47 tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T16:03:08.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24677" CreationDate="2014-09-13T23:24:32.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simpler alternative would be to use inline barrel adjusters to join the two sections of outer. That would avoid having to re-wrap the bars and means you could put the levers back in if you wanted to. Just release the inner wire from the brake, pull it out as far as the interrupter lever, remove the lever, inster the barrel adjuster and re-thread. Then wind the adjuster out until the cable outers sit properly on handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may even be cheaper (new tape vs adjusters). The disadvantage is that the adjusters will be lumps right where you're gripping the bars sometimes, extra wear on the cables and having to deal with them every time you replace the brake cable or outer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adjusters cost about $20 look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPNff.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that most of the ones you find online will be for gear cables only, they're not strong enough for brake cables. If they break, your brakes stop working. So be careful to buy the right ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T23:24:32.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-14T15:41:51.153" Score="0" ViewCount="1584" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, this is naive question, but I have to be 200% sure :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you compare the regular v-brake against parallel v-brakes as Avid Arch Rival 50:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e6Xdx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the one thing which is always ignored is the way you can change the distance between pads. In the regular v-brakes you change the distance with the cable, more loose means more distance between pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with parallel v-brake the distance is fixed, so loosening the cable does not change a thing, it just adds a dead cable section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This influences the pads and the wheel rim you can select -- more fat pads or slightly wider rim and you have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question is&lt;/strong&gt; -- am I right with the fixed distance in such v-brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: fixed means -- there is some distance, predefined, and you can narrow it, but you cannot increase it. Let's say you are on the ride and you hit something hard with wheel. The wheel needs trueing. With regular v-brakes you just loose the cable to get home. With parallel v-brakes loosening cable does not help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Photo comes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gearreview.com/archrival50_brakes.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Avid Arch Rival 50 Review at GearReview&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2014-09-15T06:16:35.503" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T20:26:34.960" Title="Are parallel v-brakes fixed distance? [Avid Arch Rival 50]" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27291" CreationDate="2014-09-14T16:05:36.640" Score="2" ViewCount="3991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to change the freewheel and the hub on my road bike and have been looking for a suitable replacement. I wish to keep my rim so I will rebuild the wheel. Also, I want to stay with a 6 speed cassette due to the limits of my current derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems easy to find a 14-28 6-speed freewheel. However, I haven't been able to find a 6-speed freewheel compatible hub, or at least one that states explicitly such compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I know that a hub is 6-speed freewheel compatible? What measures do I need to look for to make sure that the cassette will match the length of the hub?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of a frewheel that I'd like to match with a new hub &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-6-or-7-SPEED-FREEWHEEL-14-28-TEETH-SCREW-ON-NOT-CASSETTE-REAR-WHEEL-/121300234787?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;amp;var=&amp;amp;hash=item1c3e0eb223&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-6-or-7-SPEED-FREEWHEEL-14-28-TEETH-SCREW-ON-NOT-CASSETTE-REAR-WHEEL-/121300234787?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&amp;amp;var=&amp;amp;hash=item1c3e0eb223&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13765" LastEditorUserId="13765" LastEditDate="2014-09-14T20:15:59.683" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T17:11:06.617" Title="How to recognise a 6-speed freewheel compatible hub?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24674" CreationDate="2014-09-14T18:20:06.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Negligible difference. More expensive pedals will have higher end bearings which should spin better, but what you're really getting there is a bearing that should last longer. The more you pay for a pedal, the lighter it should be and the longer the bearings should last. That's really it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T18:20:06.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18548" CreationDate="2014-09-14T23:01:53.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This advice - from above- could you get killed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Firstly your tires must be hard - near the maximum pressure written on the side wall. Riding soft tires is a recipe for death under oncoming traffic, because they don't have as much grip and just slide out from under you.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's junk from a self-appointed expert. Sorry: yes, you've cycled 50 years, but you're still wrong. Grip increases with contact patch size and you're telling people to reduce it instead. This is what a professional coach (who learned his cornering wrenching for a pro criterion team) has to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://myworldfromabicycle.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/hermann-criterium-17april2010.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://myworldfromabicycle.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/hermann-criterium-17april2010.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dave, I read your blog about cornering and felt compelled to add commentary. You make reference several times about keeping weight over the center of gravity, but then later add to point the knee into the turn, which in fact moves valuable weight outside the center of gravity (or more importantly, away from above the contact patch of the tyre). The reason pointing the knee towards the inside of a turn helps is because it facilitates the hips rotating, which guides you through a turn. Bicycles are steered with hips, not hands. Unfortunately most cyclists are so tight through their hipflexors they cannot keep their knee above the tyre while rotating their hips into the turn, thus losing the benefit of additional weight atop their contact with the road.&#xA;As for other ideas....tubulars are not meant to be run @ highest of pressures. In fact, I would run tyres for the team @ 90 front and 105 rear on technical courses like Downers Grove, but only 85/95 if raining. My riders absolutely loved it, and rarely crashed because of it. The supple nature of the pressure allows the tyre to soak up lots of the effects of cornering, and keeps the tyre consistently in contact with the road, which is great for high speed cornering and power transfer. The energy potentially lost is negligible compared to the security and performance of properly inflated tyres. Keep in mind, this is from 284 days of racing with 9 bikes worth of tubulars per day. Never a rolled tyre, and significantly fewer punctures and crashes, especially in wet conditions.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you increase pressure, you reduce grip. When you reduce it, it increases. If you're running in conditions where you need more grip, do what the professionals do and reduce pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T23:01:53.653" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-15T01:51:47.947" Score="-1" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;can i add custom disc Brakes to the front at all ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike info here&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebikelist.co.uk/apollo/highway-700c-trekking-hybrid-bike-2010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thebikelist.co.uk/apollo/highway-700c-trekking-hybrid-bike-2010&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13768" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T02:31:55.713" Title="Apollo Highway Brake Discs ?" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-09-15T12:31:04.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24695" CreationDate="2014-09-15T02:31:55.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could put a disc fork on, but by the time you bought the disc fork and a decent front disc brake, it would cost half as much as that bike is worth new. You would also need a disc-ready wheel in the front. This would probalby bring the cost to 3/4ths of the cost of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're better off installing good rim brakes (which are essentially on par with non-high end cable operated disc brakes), or selling the bike and buying one which has disc brakes already on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T02:31:55.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21099" CreationDate="2014-09-15T12:16:08.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I hold up a car for more than a couple of seconds, I make a point of giving them a big thumbs up or wave of thanks, just to let them know I'm not being selfish or oblivious to them. I'll also look out for a safer place for them to overtake and swing back into secondary position as soon as I safely can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted this only helps once the irritated driver has been waiting behind you, but I'd hope that in the long run it may help drivers become more understanding. On a city commute, it's not impossible for the same car to pass you several times, so it might directly pay to be polite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T12:16:08.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24720" CreationDate="2014-09-15T12:30:36.233" Score="14" ViewCount="1152" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am being followed by a car that is unable to safely overtake, I would normally take the lane and adopt &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.britishcycling.org.uk/cycletraining/article/ct20110110-cycletraining-Bitesize-Bikeability--Part-4--On-Road-Positioning-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;primary position&lt;/a&gt; as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24308/is-it-acceptable-to-cycle-towards-the-centre-of-the-lane-on-blind-corners&quot;&gt;recommended&lt;/a&gt;, making an obvious move to secondary position once it is safe for them to overtake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the car doesn't immediately try to overtake and may miss the opportunity to get past me, even though it is legal and, in the cyclist's opinion, safe to do so. If I can see further around the corner (being further ahead) that the road is clear, should I wave them through, or leave the decision up to them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in safety and legal issues as well as avoiding irritating motorists for the good of cyclists generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:43:53.227" Title="Is it good practice to wave following cars through when safe?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24699" CreationDate="2014-09-15T14:20:54.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that at least here in Germany, most drivers are confused by trying to wave them by. Same goes for drivers in oncoming traffic that want to go left (across my lane) that I try to wave across when my traffic lights turn red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My strategy is taking &quot;primary position&quot; or even closer to the middle line when overtaking is either not a good idea or if there is enough space (maybe an additional lane) that would allow easy overtaking. I only move towards the curb when the road is visible for a longer stretch and overtaking safely is definitely possible. This is to avoid being pushed against the curb when an overtaking car has to terminate its manoeuvre prematurely due to oncoming traffic. However, most drivers seem to ignore this signal as well, either overtaking regardless of the traffic situation or not overtaking at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note though that I mostly ride a velomobile, so the UFO effect is far more pronounced than with any other type of bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T14:20:54.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15270" CreationDate="2014-09-15T14:53:19.480" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion it wouldn't give any advantage....except possibly with some lower end disc brakes where the rotas may tend to get very hot with hard use may make you slightly less prone to burned shins and ancles...other then that just a gimmic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13776" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T14:53:19.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-15T16:45:31.447" Score="3" ViewCount="2919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking around and I cannot find anywhere that sells a cassette with a 16 tooth top gear that is Shimano 11 speed compatible. Junior racing requires gear limits and I was hoping to find something similar in spec to Ultegra or Dura-Ace. Please can someone advise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13777" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2018-08-07T12:39:27.920" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T12:39:27.920" Title="Youth racing 11 speed 16 up cassette" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-15T18:11:22.260" Score="0" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a bike online based on a recommendation that a 56cm frame would be ok for me (I am 5ft 10, with 30&quot; inside leg). However I think it is slightly too big. I have to lean forward a lot and my arms are almost locked out to reach the brakes. At the moment, the handlebars are on the lowest setting. It makes it very hard to look over my shoulder to turn right and if I do I sometimes lose balance and swing into the middle of the road...lucky there was no cars there at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way for me to move the handlebars closer to me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13458" LastEditorUserId="13458" LastEditDate="2014-09-15T18:20:17.200" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T16:13:06.750" Title="Bike too big for me" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24704" CreationDate="2014-09-15T18:17:43.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presumably its a 56 cm frame, not a 56 inch frame. The number doesn't always correlate well with what size you should be using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try a shorter stem, different handle bars, or a different seatpost which allows you to move more forward (or just move your seat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good idea would be to go to a bike shop and pay for a bike fit if you haven't done this before (or at least check out youtube on how to do this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of that works, you're going to have to sell or return the bike and get a smaller size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T18:17:43.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24703" CreationDate="2014-09-15T18:35:28.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you want a 11 speed cassette which is Shimano compatible and has smallest cog with 16 teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miche makes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pro-winner.be/index.php?item=miche-race-junior-cassette-shimano---sram--11-speed-16-28&amp;amp;action=article&amp;amp;aid=8074&amp;amp;lang=NL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt;, and seem to be the only people who do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/09/bikes-and-tech/drivetrain-compatibility-hidden-in-plain-sight_303199&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Leonard Zinn notes&lt;/a&gt; that he was able to swap Campy, SRAM and Shimano wheels without problems on 11 speed (so if you had a Campy 11 speed wheel, it would seem to work). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T18:35:28.287" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24704" CreationDate="2014-09-15T18:45:42.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The frame size is just the length of the seat tube.  It will tell you some crucial details such as being able to stand over the frame and how well you can pedal, but doesn't tell you how well your bike fits your upper body.  Two people the same height can have different proportions.  I'm 6'2 and have a 31 inch inseam, so you are a lot leggier than me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your legs seem to be fitting OK you can reduce the forward reach by switching stems or switching handlebars, particularly if your current bike has drop bars, you can look into getting flat bars, although that will be expensive due to brake lever changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could make up a bit of distance by moving the seat forwards on its rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your legs are just barely reaching, you should switch bikes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like to recommend Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article about frame sizing.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastEditorUserId="13745" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T16:13:06.750" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T16:13:06.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-15T20:39:20.093" Score="1" ViewCount="1088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a spare hardtrail frame which is too big (20.5&quot;) for me (5'7&quot;) for riding trails. Would it make sense to build a commuter bike for me as road/touring bike frames are generally larger than MTB? Could it be comfortable to ride this frame on road? I like to lean forward on a bike and I'm a fast type of commuter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13779" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T01:14:05.723" Title="Reuse oversized hardtrail frame to build a commuter bike?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-09-17T15:11:42.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24708" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:24:50.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a good, cheap way to build a first commuter. Throw on a pair of road slicks and lights and go to work. It will give you a chance to decide what you really want in a commuter bike. It will be able to handle bad roads and pot holes better than a road racing bike. But, it will still be heavier and slower than a bike based on a cyclocross/utility/road frame with 700c wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8828" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:24:50.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24704" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:31:44.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the same boat, but a little farther along.  I am 5'9&quot; and found a nice 56cm frame w Dura Ace last Spring.  Its my first road bike so it took several rides to realize something was wrong.  In short, I've changed to a shorter stem, switched to a 0 setback seat post and am looking at trying to switch to compact bars as I'm still just about 1 to .5 inch away from being completely comfortable right on/behind the brake hoods. (looking at compact bars because mine are older/full sized curve and I've had to cheat the brakes back to where they are really on top of the bars.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all likely hood, I'm going to get a bike fit and order a frame for next Spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13781" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:31:44.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24614" CreationDate="2014-09-15T23:29:05.950" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make a slightly lighter, slightly stronger wheel, and depending on your priorities, it's a cheaper manufacturing process as well (hopefully to be passed on to the consumer), especially when we're talking about carbon fiber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bead hooks serve virtually no purpose for lower pressure tires. They're designed to bind clincher tires into the rim &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; when used with a tube. Without a tube, once you get above ~65-75PSI, a kevlar or wire bead will stretch over the rim and blow off because there's no tube binding the tire bead into the rim hook. That was the biggest hurdle in creating a tubeless road tire, and why the ultimate solution was a carbon bead with virtually no elasticity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since road tubeless hasn't really taken off and you wouldn't be able to use a standard clincher tire with a hookless road rim&lt;sup&gt;(1)&lt;/sup&gt;, you're unlikely to see a big push towards hookless road rims anytime soon. However, anyone interested in running a mountain bike tubeless setup isn't interested in running that sort of pressure so the stretching off the rim simply from being inflated becomes a non-issue. That combined with the reasons listed above are why you're seeing more and more mtb rims going with a hookless design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(1)&lt;/sup&gt;I've read that Alex has a prototype road rim in testing that's for tubeless and standard clinchers, but I just don't see how the latter would work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T23:29:05.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24708" CreationDate="2014-09-15T23:33:34.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got it the wrong way around. Road frames, in terms of horizontal toptube length, are significantly shorter than mountain bike frames. If it's a hardtail frame and it's too big for you with a flat bar, it's going to be &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; too big for you with a drop bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you might be able to put a bar with significant sweep on the frame and have it fit you a bit better. However, this would effectively shorten the stem, which may make the handling a bit twitchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T23:33:34.277" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-16T00:15:32.853" Score="3" ViewCount="2638" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are 4 arm cranks the future for road bikes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13782" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T03:07:58.300" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T18:22:20.240" Title="What are the advantages of 4 arm cranks for road bikes?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24714" CreationDate="2014-09-16T01:22:20.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Predominately a weight thing. The Shimano marketing spiel / hyperbole:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With a unique four-arm spider and Hollowtech II construction putting&#xA;  strength just where its needed, the FC-9000 chainset sets new&#xA;  standards for stiffness and low weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jBBns.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano_FC-9000&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;^^^ Shiny :)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That and because I think it looks distinctive and is seen as innovation. Some people don't like the look, but weight weenies will snap this up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the web I found the following comparison:&#xA;(weights are combined chainset and bottom bracket)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;DA-7900 725g  &amp;lt;-- previous Dura Ace version&#xA;DA-9000 683g  &amp;lt;-- latest&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a whopping 42g, or 5.8%. I'd buy DA if I could afford it, but not for this reason. I'd be better off eating fewer pies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with other Shimano releases, the technology has already trickled down to Ultegra and 105.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess if you don't need 5 arms, why wouldn't you just have 4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano is just an example. As andy256 commented above, Campy also has this and maybe others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T18:22:20.240" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T18:22:20.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24745" CreationDate="2014-09-16T04:46:27.183" Score="2" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did the smart thing and went in for a bike fit 3 weeks ago.  I had some serious pain in my hands which has since been essentially resolved.  Now, in the drops and at the hoods, I get pretty wretched neck pain 4 miles in.  I stretch my traps before and during the ride but can't get any relief. I had not owned a road bike before and just started biking on a daily basis 10 - 15 miles at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a fit issue that still needs to be resolved or am I paying the price for weak trapezius muscles?  The pain essentially goes away by the end of the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13785" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T14:41:02.023" Title="Neck pain after BG Bike Fit?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2096" CreationDate="2014-09-16T05:01:38.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These first two are really more basic skills, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give cars enough space that an opening door won't take you down. I had one pull me to the ground once, fortunately, it only got the edge of my hand grip, and at low speed, but it turned my handlebars and took me straight down. I was thankful not to be injured. I've heard tales of much worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be ready to brake and/or turn if a car turns into you. Sometimes they'll pass you and not realize you're still close to them. A few days ago, a car decided to swerve across the bike lane into a parking spot. Fortunately, I hit the brakes hard. Years ago, a car turned into a side street when we were right alongside each other. To avoid disaster, I made the exact same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point, I learned to brake quickly, jump over my handlebars, and land on my feet. The key was to push down hard and fast when the front of the bike started to go down. The usefulness of this maneuver can be debated, but after a panic stop when you hit the brakes a little too hard, it can make for a nicer ending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastEditorUserId="13786" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T05:10:43.113" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T05:10:43.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24704" CreationDate="2014-09-16T09:11:37.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible to make a bike bigger but closer to impossible to make a bike smaller. You may be fortunate and be able to make a change, ie a different seat post, that doesn't affect the handling of the bike too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation: sell the bike and then get a bike that fits you like a glove. You'll take a loss most likely but not really since you'll likely be spending tons on trying to get your current bike to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T09:11:37.117" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-09-16T09:11:37.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24721" CreationDate="2014-09-16T09:18:13.943" Score="0" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the chain came off my bike on the way to work this morning, but when I tried to put it back on, it seems like it has also come out of the dérailleur frame, but the gap where it seems to have come through is much too small for it to fit back through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://imgur.com/ETJXj8G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Here&amp;#39;s a photo.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red arrow shows where there is a kind of metal peg, sticking out from the &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a gap then, between this metal peg, and the other side of the dérailleur mechanism frame, shown by the blue arrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't seem possible for the chain to fit through this gap, because the gap is too small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened and closed the chain before, so I guess I can do this again, to get it back inside the dérailleur mechanism frame, but what's bothering me is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the chain doesn't fit through the gap, how did it get out through this gap in the first place.&#xA;And then, does this apparent impossibility to fit through the gap mean that I'm misunderstanding something about how this is supposed to work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the practical question is then: what exactly do I need to do in this situation to fix this problem (as easily as possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain is not broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13787" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T09:23:50.700" Title="My chain came out of dérailleur frame, but gap seems too small, am I misunderstanding something?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24699" CreationDate="2014-09-16T09:21:59.143" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never. I drive a school bus (and ride a bike, of course - but never at the same time) and when bicyclists wave me through, I ignore them. There is no way that they can truly judge the space that I need without running into an oncoming car or them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same goes for when I'm in my car. I trust my own judgment. If it means that I am driving behind them for a bit, so be it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my bike, I keep enough space between me and the curb and let them make their move. What if I wave them on, they hesitate, and then go after the golden moment has come and gone? Or if they pass a little too close because they are nervous? At worst, I'll stop and let them pass.  As we all know, folks in the cars don't make the best calls but better than me making it for them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T09:21:59.143" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-09-16T09:21:59.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24719" CreationDate="2014-09-16T09:23:50.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To fix it, you don't have to break the chain. Simply unscrew one or both of the derailer pulleys slightly until you have enough space to get the chain through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5743" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T09:23:50.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1579" CreationDate="2014-09-16T09:27:42.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that technically you're supposed to walk across but I make a decision on how busy the intersection is. If there are plenty of pedestrians, I get off. That's pretty rare where I live in western Massachusetts. Most of the time, I ride through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastEditorUserId="13747" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T09:32:46.787" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T09:32:46.787" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-09-16T09:27:42.550" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-16T12:02:38.437" Score="2" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to change the frame of my fixie, it's too small for me now. It's a PureFix Bravo 50 cm, &lt;a href=&quot;http://purefixcycles.eu/pages/pure-fix-original-specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these are the specs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to change the frame for a bigger one, a 54 or 58 cm one. Is it possible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13788" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T12:13:22.593" Title="Can I swap my fixie frame and still keep all my old components?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24723" CreationDate="2014-09-16T12:13:22.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible, but not likely economically a good move, especially if you're not doing the labor to swap the bike parts yourself (assuming you own the tool to remove the bottom bracket and what not). The bike is a relatively cheap one (~300 dollars), and you're likely to come out better financially by selling the bike and buying a larger one (which may have some slightly different components spec'd on it, such as different crank arm lengths). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50 cm -&gt; 58 cm is quite a large jump as well, but that is a peripheral point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T12:13:22.593" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15270" CreationDate="2014-09-16T14:22:40.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like nobody has taken the geometry into account yet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the image below I have drawn the situation with highly exaggerated proportions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLxMM.png&quot; alt=&quot;schematic drawing of fork-wheel system&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All not-lowest-end suspension forks (at least the ones I know of) have a rake that is created by shifting the axle in front of the lower tubes. Let's take a wheel of radius &lt;em&gt;r&lt;/em&gt; (solid blue circle) and add some clearance for the tire (dashed blue circle). Above that, the upper edge of the lower tubes shall be of equal height with respect to the upper tube's axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here we can already see, that the wheel passes the front side of the lowers at a &quot;higher&quot; position than its back side. As the arches (green rectangles) have to span from one lower tube to the other over the clearance radius, we can see that the arch in the front side (the right one in the image) has to reach higher (higher green rectangle) above the lower tube's body than the one on the back side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically speaking this means, that to build an arch with the same stiffness, less material (i.e. less weight) is needed on a reversed arch or at the same weight, the reversed arch can be built more massive and therefore stiffer. Unfortunately I don't have any measurement values about how much influence that really has. And obviously there are (or at least were, cf. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/15293/5271&quot;&gt;heltonbike's answer&lt;/a&gt;) other drawbacks to be taken into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T14:22:40.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-16T14:24:18.430" Score="2" ViewCount="1630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a low clamp 2x10 front derailleur. As it turns out to be a challenge to find locally, I begin to wonder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How important is the rear gear specification? What is I get 2x9?    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How important is the front gear specification? What if I get 3x10?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to understand the reasons for those constraints, not just an &quot;1)yes 2)yes&quot; answes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T15:06:19.503" Title="How much does number of gears matter for a front derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-16T14:25:06.443" Score="1" ViewCount="2600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to convert an old 12-speed into a 1x6 for urban commuting. I'm hoping to keep one of the existing chain rings at 42T and use washers on the chainring bolts or replace them with single speed bolts. When I remove the front derailleur, do I need to replace it with a chain guide? Do I also need a bashguard? Or is that more for downhill mtb conversions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10652" LastEditorUserId="10652" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T14:32:37.527" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T16:05:45.610" Title="Do I need a chain guide or bash guard to convert to a single chain ring?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24726" CreationDate="2014-09-16T14:47:05.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first number is the number of front gears and the second number is the number of rear gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many gears do you want / need is for you to decide.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gear range is the smallest and largest. &#xA;Even with 7 speed you could have big range. &#xA;The down side is a bigger step between gears.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have a 10 speed rear with only a difference of 1 tooth between gears.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front is more a range gear.  A small front is for climbing and large front is for flat and downhill.  A touring bike with a load would need one small front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front is not really aware of how many gears in the rear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T15:06:19.503" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T15:06:19.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24726" CreationDate="2014-09-16T14:59:56.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cages for a double and triple are shaped differently, so you need to get the derailleur for the right number of chainrings in the front. The derailleur also needs to have enough capacity to shift between the chainrings you have as well as clear the largest chainring. As usual, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; is a good person to start with regarding FD selection. The number of rear speeds (the 9 in 2x9) marked for a front derailleur isn't too important, but the cage of the derailleur may be thinner for higher number of rear speeds (so if your chain isn't designed for high enough speeds, you may have some rubbing on the cage, especially if you don't adjust it properly) -- as Sheldon points out though, the distinction based on number of cogs in the back is primarily for marketing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you also need to make sure the derailleur will be able to be mounted on whatever type of mount your frame uses (this includes how the cable is pulled - bottom or top). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, you have to worry about cable pull ratio, so if you're using brand X, buy a brand X front derailleur, and if it is a road (mountain) FD, buy a road (mountain) FD if you have road (mountain) shifters (which should obviously be matched with the number of chainrings in the front). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Number of rear cogs doesn't matter - the shifting in the front is effectively independent of whats going on in the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Number of front chainrings does matter, but there's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;more to it&lt;/a&gt; than just matching the number of chainrings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T15:05:24.687" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T15:05:24.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24727" CreationDate="2014-09-16T15:16:52.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're keeping the inner chainring, it's likely to be very similar to a chainring designed to be used as a single ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't try to use a middle chainring as a single ring because it will have teeth that are designed to drop the chain, something you don't want to happen when climbing hills in the &lt;em&gt;gear of last resort&lt;/em&gt;. If the chain drops in this scenario, you will probably injure yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A chain guide should not be required unless you take the bike off-road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A guard-ring is optional, but may help prevent clothing or shoelaces from being caught by the chain and chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T15:16:52.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24727" CreationDate="2014-09-16T16:05:45.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Batman.  You can disconnect your front shifter, and use the indexing screws to position the front derailleur to act as a chain guide, and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not interested in doing that, I would recommend paying attention to Emyr's advice--chainrings intended to be used with a shifter have &quot;ramps&quot; on the gear teeth to facilitate shifting.  If you're not using a derailleur, these can make your chain drop, which is bad.  You might want to get a singlespeed-specific front chainring, they're not expensive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you keep your derailleur as a chain guide, you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T16:05:45.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7780" CreationDate="2014-09-16T16:10:57.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never ever run a red light even if it is safe to go. It is also an offence under the Road Traffic Act 1988 section 36 (In the UK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13790" LastEditorUserId="13790" LastEditDate="2014-09-17T07:10:54.163" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T07:10:54.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24699" CreationDate="2014-09-16T16:34:14.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to wave cars through when I know that it is safe, there is enough room for them to get through. So I think that it is perfectly good practice but you have to think about the size of the vehicle and if it will get around you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13790" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T16:34:14.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24699" CreationDate="2014-09-16T17:50:13.243" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I subscribe to the theory of &quot;don't force the other person to make a decision&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a car an example is to not stay in someone's blind spot as they are about to change lanes. That way they don't have to decide whether to speed up or slow down to get over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bike, that means to communicate your intentions and provide one obvious path for the driver to take. For instance, I always take the ENTIRE lane if I'm going to take the lane, and when I want cars behind me to go past I get over to the shoulder as far as I can and wave them on. If I've had to take the lane in a somewhat problematic area I will even stop so I can get the bike off the road and let impatient cars past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's up to the driver to decide to go past when you wave them by. But it makes the decisionmaking process easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10514" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T17:50:13.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24737" CreationDate="2014-09-16T18:34:31.543" Score="14" ViewCount="3246" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today it was foggy, visibility was only slightly reduced, I already wear a high-vis on my bike but I am wondering if it is still worth me using my lights or is that overkill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13790" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T15:01:59.717" Title="Should I use lights in foggy conditions?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24735" CreationDate="2014-09-16T18:57:30.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people run lights on a clear day for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US by law a motorcycle must run lights all the time. &#xA;Law was based on safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a related post&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23307/does-it-make-you-safer-to-use-lights-during-the-day/23319#23319&quot;&gt;Does it make you safer to use lights during the day&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars turn their lights on in the fog. Another answer was criticized for stating this is a no-brainier.  But it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for high beam versus low beam.  A bicycle light is typically oriented as a low beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T17:58:30.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24735" CreationDate="2014-09-16T19:04:59.890" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I definitely recommend this. Running lights will make you more readily visible as the light will penetrate the fog to an extent.  Reflectors and high-viz clothing will be somewhat less effective during foggy conditions.  Use caution riding in foggy conditions as drivers may not see you until they are very close.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T19:04:59.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24735" CreationDate="2014-09-16T20:23:22.683" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should use lights in fog. On a car, you don't use high beams in fog (but you're supposed to use low beams (required) and fog lights (optional, but useful since they cast a low and wide beam which increases visibility) since they reflect back too much, but on a bicycle, your lights aren't that powerful for this to be a problem (and the distance they cover is less than a car light). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also be extra on edge and wear your high vis stuff, since your visibility is lower (and more importantly, people who are driving cars have lower visibility and aren't always very good at driving in fog). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T20:23:22.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-16T21:45:39.863" Score="-2" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if anyone has any advice or ideas on bikes that I could consider for all year round commuting to and from work.  My commute is a 20 mile round trip on a mixture of rural and urban roads.  Whilst I know that there isn’t any bike out there which would be no maintenance however I’d like it to be as low maintenance as possible.  I work long hours have a toddler plus another baby on the way and so whilst I’d love to spend plenty of time maintaining my bike being realistic my prospect of finding lots of time for maintenance is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d like to make use of the cycle to work scheme and so keeping the budget under £1,000 is a must.  I do have a list of things that I’d love to have on a bike and there are a few bikes which meet some of my requirements plus one which meets all of them but isn’t available to buy in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I’ll be commuting all year around in all conditions, whatever the weather, my dream wish list for a bike would include the following.  Now I know that I could buy a bike without any of these things and buy most if not all of these things separately but if I could buy a bike with everything already fitted then that would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mudguards;&#xA;Pannier Rack;&#xA;Internal hub gears;&#xA;Dynamo hub;&#xA;Dynamo lights;&#xA;Disc brakes;&#xA;and if possible a Gates Carbon Belt Drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I’ve found a bike that ticks all of the above boxes and would be perfect for me.  It’s the Breezer Beltway Elite:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.breezerbikes.com/bikes/details/beltway-elite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.breezerbikes.com/bikes/details/beltway-elite&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it doesn’t appear that Breezer bikes aren’t sold in the UK.  There is a distributor who will import it from Germany but if I did that it would not be possible to use the Cycle to Work Scheme.  On this point in an ideal world I’d like to be able to buy a bike from a local bike shop which is also why I’m not keen on importing a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When searching for bikes that fit my dream wish list I there is one bike I’ve found from a British company and I’d love to support a British bike company however this bike is way over my budget.  Looking at the specs the Milk Bikes RDA would potentially make a great low maintenance commuter however as mentioned unfortunately it’s more than I can afford:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milkbikes.com/rda/8-rda-the-commuter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.milkbikes.com/rda/8-rda-the-commuter.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Focus Wasgo 3.0 ticks quite a lot of boxes however I would much prefer disc brakes and so it doesn’t tick as many boxes as the Breezer Beltway Elite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry as I was going to include links to the other bikes that I mention but the forum won't allow me to use more than two links).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at other bikes in the Focus range there is the Planet 2.0 which has disc brakes and the Gates Carbon Belt Drive but there’s no of the features that I see as essential for all year around commuting such as mudguards and a rack.  In addition with no dynamo I’d need to get the wheel rebuilt with a dynamo hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if I did go down the road of taking a more basic bike and having to add all of the commuter kit then there is the Roux Carbon Drive A8 but as with the Focus Planet 2.0 I’d be having to add the mudguards, rack, dynamo, dynamo lights etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment I’d be grateful for any advice suggestions from people who can recommend bikes for commuting, from anyone who has had any of the bikes above and can say anything about them or from anyone who has alternative commuter bikes that they could suggest that I look at.  As mentioned above from looking at the specs the Breezer Beltway Elite matches all of my requirements but I’m left really frustrated because I can’t buy it from a bike shop in the UK and it seems a difficult task to find anything similar at under £1,000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to anyone who can offer any thoughts and advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13793" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T22:48:50.093" Title="Can anybody recommend a bike for year round commuting" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-09-17T14:23:07.830" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24741" CreationDate="2014-09-16T22:48:50.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say buy a modern Dutch city commuter bike: except for a Gates Carbon Belt Drive (never heard of), they have all the listed specs, are indeed very low maintenance (having an completely enclosed chaincase helps a lot) and will cost you about 600 - 700 GBP, evering included with wheel lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well known, good quality brands are Gazelle, Batavus, Sparta, and there are at least two shops in London that sell Gazelles (I bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gazelle.nl/assortiment/orange-pure?type=men&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mine&lt;/a&gt; at one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7161" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T22:48:50.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24708" CreationDate="2014-09-17T01:14:05.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have the spare parts laying around build-outs are expensive and always labor intensive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not worth spending money on a frame the does not fit you. &#xA;Road versus trail the fit is not that different. &#xA;The frame fits you or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had mountain bike that the shock wore out and bought a better mountain bike. &#xA;I put a fixed fork and tires on it to use it as a city bike and still had to think about it. &#xA;I am good with that decision but the frame fit me and the conversion was $200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T01:14:05.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24716" CreationDate="2014-09-17T04:44:16.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go back and get fit again. You paid them, it shouldn't be painful. It might be a little uncomfortable at first, but shouldn't be as painful as it sounds. A new stem and stack height may help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13795" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T04:44:16.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24716" CreationDate="2014-09-17T05:22:22.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention your fitness level, or how hard you are riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding 10-15 miles (16-24 km) straight away sounds too much for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend you &lt;em&gt;aim&lt;/em&gt; for 5 miles, every second day. While riding, consciously change your hand position between the tops (the straight part of the handlebars), the hoods, and the corners of the bars, with an occasional stretch down to the drops. Stop a little after you feel those muscles getting tired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for riding every second day is to give those muscles time to recover and respond to the demands you're putting on them. They will grow stronger, if you don't over-stress them and give them time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As they get stronger, you can increase the distance, by say, 10% until you are comfortable with the new distance. Don't over-do it. If you injure yourself then your whole cycling plan will get set back by months. So do monitor how you're going, talk to the people at the shop, and definitely see a doctor or physiotherapist if you think something more serious is happening. (Of course, none of us here are doctors, so don't even imagine that this is medical advice!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a couple of weeks you should be back to 10 miles again, and be ready to ride further &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; faster &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-09-17T05:31:39.163" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T05:31:39.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2014-09-17T19:56:43.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very interesting question.  Aluminum vs Carbon.  Will it be long before the two are in the same price range - on it's way in the very near future.  I have an Aluminum and a Carbon frame road bike.  The aluminum bike has a longer wheelbase, more relaxed seat angle (72.5 vs 74 degrees) and square formed stays, and deflects most of the bumps and vibration almost as well as the CF frame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say geometry, and even more, exact fit, within 1cm or less, are slightly more important than material for comfort, efficiency and handling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculate your frame sized based on Steve Potts bike fit theory.  If you are 5'5 or shorter, divide your height in cm by 3.3, 5'6 to 5'10 divide by 3.2, and taller, divide by 3.1 to get your correct frame size.  It works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13802" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T19:20:28.713" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T19:20:28.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2014-09-17T20:40:36.563" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are making the classical mistake of thinking that you can get the &quot;perfect&quot; bike on the first go round. Without the experience of where and when you'll ride, it is 100% likely that your first bike will be the wrong bike in some way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say take your current budget, cut it in half and buy a bike that fits you well, regardless of what it's made of. Used would definitely be best if you can judge whether a bike is used or abused ( or have a friend that can). Most of the time used bikes are lightly used and are a great deal. Having the design of the frame match the style of riding you do is far more important than what it's made of and you can't really make that judgement until you've got some miles under your belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride that bike for 4 or 5 months and then you'll know a lot more about what compromises to make in your next bike. And in another season or two after that if&#xA;you're still riding, you'll might get it exactly right on your 3rd bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T20:40:36.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2014-09-17T21:14:44.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based only on my personal experience with my first son I would suggest to use a Balance Bike starting from age of 2/3 depending on how tall the kid is (you're daughter in this case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I blogged about my experience here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thebestformysonen.blogspot.it/2014/09/the-best-balance-bike.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://thebestformysonen.blogspot.it/2014/09/the-best-balance-bike.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13806" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T21:14:44.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24752" CreationDate="2014-09-17T22:19:04.330" Score="0" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the other turn signals, but what if I need to flash the hazard? On a car it is both turn signals, but on a bike stretching both arms is stupid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13767" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T02:27:02.210" Title="What is the hazard turn signal?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24750" CreationDate="2014-09-17T22:34:15.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't really have the same need for hazard signals on a bicycle as you do on a car, since aside from losing your brakes (in which case, you probably need to keep your hands on the bar), every situation where you would use your hazards is irrelevant to the cyclist [You'd likely just pull over and stop]. You can yell or flash your headlight if you want to, since this is probably more recognizable than a hand signal which isn't right/left turn or stop to most people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary hazard concern would be in group rides to point out road hazards (a problem also faced by motorcyclists). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.esurance.com/motorcycle-hand-signals-a-quick-history/#.VBoKKC7xJBM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;motorcycle&lt;/a&gt;, its pointing down to the left at a 45 degree angle for a hazard to the left and pointing overhand for right (or kicking out the appropriate leg). Some people use it while &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fccycleclub.org/GRE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;biking&lt;/a&gt; but I don't really see it as a particularly useful hand signal to remember - I could see it being confused with left turn. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artscyclery.com/learningcenter/handsignals.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are some other signals for road hazards in group rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T22:34:15.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24750" CreationDate="2014-09-17T23:08:04.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few different hand signals to use depending on what the situation is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, making a fist behind your back or with your elbow out and bent downward signals to other riders that you are planning on making a stop, potentially a very sudden stop for unexpected reasons; When closing in on road hazards, pointing them out is extremely helpful to the riders behind you, who in all likelihood can't see the hazard directly in front of you and could be caught off guard by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I see glass (/sharp stuff), I usually relay it to the group by pointing my hand at the ground and wiggling my fingers, indicating something sharp is scattered on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.active.com/cycling/articles/8-cycling-hand-signals-for-your-next-group-ride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.active.com/cycling/articles/8-cycling-hand-signals-for-your-next-group-ride&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2009/09/verbal-and-non-verbal-communication/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2009/09/verbal-and-non-verbal-communication/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T02:27:02.210" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T02:27:02.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24735" CreationDate="2014-09-17T23:45:20.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always turn on my headlights even in the daytime for safety reasons, whether driving a car or riding a bike or motorcycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times I have tried to change lanes when visibility was limited and had to correct back into my lane because what I thought was a clear lane was actually occupied by a very hard to see vehicle coming up from my blind spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many accidents could be avoided if everyone drove with their headlights on during limited visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13807" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T23:45:20.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24774" CreationDate="2014-09-18T00:40:55.967" Score="0" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a new wheelset Reynolds Solitude from a friend. He bought a new bike and it came with these wheels so he sold them as take-offs. They have internal spokes. &#xA;I have one problem with them not sure if it is related to the wheel set being new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spokes on my rear wheel, non drive side (laced radially) keep losing tension after ride. First time I had 7 spokes loose after 45 miles ride, I didn't feel any problem with the wheel as I was able to ride home. Took it to LBS they have trued the wheel and after that I got them loose again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can not afford to go to LBS any time I have problem with my wheels so I am taking different approach. I would like to learn how to do it on my own so I bought ParkTool TM-1 for that purpose and a truing stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have a question : What is the process for fixing this particular problem, retensioning the radial side and truing the wheel? If anybody can point out things that I should do/don't do in order not to destroy the wheel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11410" LastEditorUserId="1588" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T00:42:35.200" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T23:46:23.973" Title="New wheelset, spokes losing tension" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2446" CreationDate="2014-09-18T07:30:32.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with most of the comments about messenger bags being better for riding.  However... I find it very odd no one has mentioned yet that if you ride wearing a full face helmet (like a downhill or motorcycle helmet) it is always hitting the top of your backpack which it actually dangerous and motion/sight limiting.  A messenger bag  with the thick strap and stabilizer strap of some sort allows free motion of your head.  Plus less sweat (sweat is bad on a bike stuck in traffic) and I in general carry about 30-35 pounds in mine without shoulder pain like I would get with a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13809" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T13:15:57.377" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T13:15:57.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2014-09-18T08:32:51.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All brake types that lock your wheels work.  Because traction is required to stop you, spend more on better studded (ice) tires, because once your wheels are locked your tires will help you stop/not.  Hydraulic brakes are overhyped.  They are more prone to failure when tested in salty conditions due to more small moving parts that can corrode.  Mechanical brakes have less moving complex parts so are more reliable, as are rim brakes.  Rim brakes require more pad changes than discs and special all weather compound pads such as kool stop salmon allow them to work better than stock pads in wet weather.  Deep snow can be a challenge for less than equal v pads.  But if it comes to that, should you be walking instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13811" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T08:32:51.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2014-09-18T11:59:10.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back when I was healthier I rode my bike year-round here in (&quot;tropical&quot;) southern Minnesota, commuting 10 miles to work and back.  Because I didn't have studded tires I never rode when the roads were icy, and I drew the line at riding in below 0F temps, but otherwise I rode in rain, falling snow, when the roads were wet, et al.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike was a Nishiki tourer at first and then my current Novara Randonee tourer, both with canti brakes.  Other than needing to allow a half-second or so to squeegee the the water off when the roads were wet (which is required in any temperature), the brakes were no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T11:59:10.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23884" CreationDate="2014-09-18T16:41:10.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other possibility is a problem on the chain itself.&#xA; - Pedal backwards and watch closely to see if any any links are twisted.&#xA; - Make sure that every link pivots the way that it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These could have happened when you had problems in the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T16:41:10.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-18T18:29:08.760" Score="-1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I adopted a thoroughly abandoned Univega Super Strada from somewhere in the '80s or '90s. It has Shimano caliper brakes in good condition with pads that are worn but still have plenty of the indicator groove visible, so I haven't replaced them yet. I replaced the cables and housings because they were in rough shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the bike is upside down and I spin the wheels, squeezing the brake levers stops the wheels instantly regardless of the wheel's speed. When I'm walking with the bike I can make the wheels skid by squeezing the levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm riding the bike, the brakes are barely engaging. Squeezing the levers all the way to 100% slows me down very gradually, but there is not nearly enough stopping power to ride safely in traffic. This happens even when I'm riding at very slow speeds - slower even than the walking speed at which I was able to make the tires skid with the brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do the brakes perform so much worse when the bike is loaded? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wild stabs in the dark: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loading the bike changes the wheels' shape slightly, changing the pads' pressure points on the rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increased momentum (adding more mass &lt;em&gt;m&lt;/em&gt; in &lt;em&gt;p&lt;/em&gt; = &lt;em&gt;mv&lt;/em&gt;?) requires additional pressure from pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Old/soft pads need replacement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or some combination of all of the above? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2099" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T18:42:16.187" Title="What causes brakes to perform worse when the bike is loaded?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24765" CreationDate="2014-09-18T18:42:16.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increased energy (energy goes up linearly with the mass) is one factor, as well as the grippy-ness of the pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first option (wheel shape changing) is bogus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the true culprit is likely that your your brakes are misadjusted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;A brake with high mechanical advantage will apply a lot of force to the brake shoe for a small amount of finger pressure on the lever; the other side of the coin is that a system with high mechanical advantage will require the hand lever to move a long way to move the brake shoes a short distance toward the rim. If you have too much mechanical advantage, the brake lever will bump up against the handlebar before the brake shoe has moved far enough to engage the rim. &quot; [See in particular the Feel vs Function section on that page]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/sidepull-brake-service&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on adjusting the brakes. Also, while you're at it, throw on some new pads since the old ones may have dried out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T18:42:16.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-18T19:34:40.710" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had a crash and wrecked my Cube hardtail mountain bike. Can I put all the parts, wheels, Reba Rock Shock, Shimano gears etc off my hard tail on to a full suspension frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13815" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T22:11:18.373" Title="Changing Frames" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24771" CreationDate="2014-09-18T22:05:41.920" Score="1" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced both my cassette and chain in July (2.5 months ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason my chain started skipping when I was in the smallest cog in back. I took it to a shop, they could not find anything wrong. They measured the chain and the cogs and said everything looked good, but since it was not working they suggested I replace the cassette and chain again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I bought another cassette and another chain. I just put the cassette on and the bike works great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I put on the new chain too? Or save it for a while? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13817" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T14:16:08.450" Title="I just replaced my cassette, do I need replace the 2 month old chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24767" CreationDate="2014-09-18T22:11:18.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends. First, you need to know the parts are still good. Then, you just need to match the frame's compatibilities. Are the wheel sizes the same and do they have the same width hubs? (The second answer is almost surely yes). Do you have mounts for the same type or appropriate brakes on both bikes to match the wheels? Does the new frame have a compatible headset and is rated for the appropriate amount of travel? Similar questions will be asked for each component, like if the front derailleur mount is the same between bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can likely move a lot of components off if they're good, but each of the components is on a case by case basis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T22:11:18.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24769" CreationDate="2014-09-18T22:44:12.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it works great, leave it alone. Measure the chain every few hundred miles and install the new one as soon as the one you have on now is worn beyond spec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, when you have a few minutes to spare, read this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T22:44:12.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23884" CreationDate="2014-09-18T23:29:30.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe FD is broken. Check if it does shakes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Maybe whole crank is bent - not separate teeth. Check whether the crank is closer to frame at one point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T23:29:30.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24769" CreationDate="2014-09-18T23:39:44.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That chain you have will be fine. Chains generally last 1000 or so miles, sometimes more. You should save the new chain to replace this chain currently on your bike when it gets worn out. Not replacing a worn out chain can cost you $$ because you will likely need to replace the cassette and possibly the chainrings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13819" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T23:39:44.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24755" CreationDate="2014-09-18T23:46:23.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to learn about wheel building, google search Sheldon Brown. He has a website that is phenomenal. I highly recommend it. I learned everything I know about wheel building from a couple hours of youtube videos, the park tool bike mechanics book, and his website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your specific question, I think overall the spoke tension throughout the wheel sounds like it is not enough and after tightening and truing whichever side it is that you are having trouble with I would do a quarter turn on each spoke in the wheel and ride. If it loosens up do another quarter turn on each spoke. With a properly laced and trued wheel with spokes at the proper tension you should never have issues with the spokes loosening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13819" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T23:46:23.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24780" CreationDate="2014-09-19T02:53:40.070" Score="2" ViewCount="1611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5528/how-should-i-approach-hills&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14488/what-is-the-most-efficient-way-to-ride-up-or-down-hills-and-into-or-away-from-w&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and I understand the good ways and the bad on how to ride up hills. In fact I consider myself a good hill climber (roadie), but some of the guys I ride with are beating my KOMs because of their gearing. Two of them are now on 32s whilst I only upgraded from 25 to 28. Yeah I know, I should have gone up to 32 as well to match. BUT, I reckon my 28 with the right gearing on the front will make all the difference. So what are good gearing ratios to determine the right gears for both front and back, so that I can keep my cadence around 70-80 or 90 and still have decent speeds (more then 15km/h)?&#xA;Do I have to provide personal specs, weight, etc?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T14:57:03.703" Title="Hill riding: What gears are usually the most comfortable?" Tags="&lt;hills&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24776" CreationDate="2014-09-19T04:02:52.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not about numbers, it's not about this many teeth should be in the front and this many teeth in the back. There's no right answer here, and no one on this forum can say what your best fit is. It's 100% your responsibility to find out what works the best for you and what lets you achieve your ideal cadence and beat your mates up the mountain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T04:02:52.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24791" CreationDate="2014-09-19T09:45:43.343" Score="3" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an average cross-country bike (Cube AIM), with stock parts on it. &#xA;I have no problems descending at high speeds on a rocky road/singletrack. &#xA;But when I have a long, steep descend with big roots (10cm in diameter) hidden partially in the ground, I feel like my bike is going to fall apart under me and I begin to brake more than I would like to, because I'm scared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On such rooty (don't know if it's the right word) descend the front fork is working really hard, hitting the travel limit all the time. The chain is clanking furiously over the roots. The overall jitter is so strong that I can't sometimes keep my feet on the pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to drive on a hardtail CC bike in such conditions? If not, what kind of bike should I use for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13823" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:46:13.370" Title="Is it safe to go over roots at high speed on a cross-country bicyle?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24776" CreationDate="2014-09-19T09:51:05.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;@hillsons has already pointed out that one key is to find your ideal cadence. Totally agree, but lets unpack that a bit more ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention how steep these hills are, how long they are, or how your weight and size compares to these riding buddies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the hills are longer than can be overcome by a good run up, what gear you need depends on many factors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;how steep is the hill,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;how strong you are, compared to the total weight of you and your bike,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;how &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mentally tough&lt;/a&gt; you are - what level of pain you are willing to endure,&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;how warmed up you are (minimum 30 minutes, maybe 60 minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these factors are inter-related, but it all boils down to the fact that you are using a lever (via your pedals, gears, and wheels) to lift your weight X meters up the hill in less time than your competitors. Lower gears give you a longer lever. Lower weight means you don't have to push as hard. Your strength and aerobic capacity determine how fast you go and how long you can keep it up. Plus the X factor: in competition it's not the fittest, or strongest who win, because at a given level everyone has often pretty much the same &lt;em&gt;physical&lt;/em&gt; capabilities. In this situation it's the most determined, the one who can stand the pain the longest, who wins. One family member became a national champion saying &lt;em&gt;just one more tree&lt;/em&gt;, or &lt;em&gt;just until that post&lt;/em&gt;, and the next. And the next. And smiling to psych the others out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to be competing, either with friends or in open competition, if it's comfortable, you are &lt;em&gt;doing it wrong&lt;/em&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think lower gears will help, then you are right. They &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; help; it will be a self-fulfilling prophesy. For a while. But in the end, you will need to address the central issues. Your strength. Your endurance. Your pain threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be a great journey. Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T09:51:05.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24785" CreationDate="2014-09-19T10:25:11.657" Score="3" ViewCount="5574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with a Shimano hub dynamo, a B&amp;amp;M Cyo switched LED front (LED) light, and a B&amp;amp;M D-Toplight rear (LED) light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the rear light disconnected, things work as I expect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When switched off, nothing happens when I spin the front wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When switched on, the front light comes on when I spin the wheel, and the standlight stays on when the wheel stops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when the rear light is connected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When switched off, the lights still come on when the wheel spins, but not the standlight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When switched on, the lights and standlight come on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact only one of the two wires needs to be connected to the rear light for the above to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's happening?  I thought I knew how dynamo lights were wired, but clearly I'm missing something.  I assume conduction through the frame is involved somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has happened on two bikes (with the same type of lights and dynamo); on one the guy in the LBS said the back light was faulty, and fitted a different one which fixed the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other information: On one of these bikes, until recently there were different symptoms when the dynamo plug was wired the other way around (I swapped the wires at the dynamo).  It stayed off when switched off, but the lights were significantly dimmer than it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13824" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T13:36:42.673" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T14:03:27.177" Title="How are hub dynamo lights wired and why does a rear light cause the front to come on?" Tags="&lt;led-lights&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24779" CreationDate="2014-09-19T11:52:58.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your fork is regularly bottoming out, you need to either increase the spring rate or modify the loading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the latter case, achieve this by moving your centre of mass rearwards, reducing your speed or modifying your route such that your inertia has a greater component away from the surface... use the first root to jump over, or &quot;float&quot; over, the subsequent roots, depending how much surface-normal inertia you can handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern forks contain hard elastomer or plastic bumpers to absorb the force experienced when the fork exhausts its available travel, but these bumpers can fail under extreme loads or repeated heavy loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the chain-slap, rear mechs containing clutches such as Shimano's &lt;em&gt;Shadow+&lt;/em&gt; models can help reduce the motion. (Note, &lt;em&gt;Shadow&lt;/em&gt; models, without the plus, have no clutch mechanism)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T11:52:58.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24781" CreationDate="2014-09-19T13:29:50.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have two wires going to your front and rear lights or only one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have two wires going to your rear and only one going to your front, then my guess is that your dynamo is not correctly grounded to your frame -- and is only grounded when the two wires to the rear (ground and +) are hooked up, and the rear light's internal grounding then grounds the frame which allows the front to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, alternately, that your rear light is hooked up backwards and when connected, is shorting itself to the frame ground which causes the front light to not work. You can try switching the polarity of the rear light to see if this fixes things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your LBS should be able to diagnose this easily with a multimeter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T14:03:27.177" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T14:03:27.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24781" CreationDate="2014-09-19T13:40:14.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano hub generators have an electrically connected axle (stupid but fact, it comes from the time when bicycle lights were connected unreliably using a single cable closing the circuit using the frame). Even modern rear lights have this electrical frame connection, too (B&amp;amp;M Cyo is clean in that matter). This means your circuit is built of two cables and one frame ... which may cause interesting effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that the marked cable (on cable pairs one is usually marked with a white line) connects to the connector marked with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erdung#mediaviewer/File:Earth_Ground.svg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ground symbol&lt;/a&gt; ON EVERY COMPONENT (generator, front and rear light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is opening the rear light and cut the electrical connection of the screws used to mount the light. This voids warranty but you do not need to pay attention on cable ordering no longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13826" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T13:40:14.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2014-09-19T14:06:02.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bacteria need nutrients to grow, and plain water doesn't have any. So all that's needed is a rinse with clean water and air drying. There's really no reason for all this sterilization stuff. It accomplishes virtually nothing other than making you feel tidy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you add stuff to the bottle that contains nutrients, such as sports drinks, then the bottle needs some soap and hot water after each use. Nothing extravagant, just the same level of cleaning you would do for dishes or glassware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T14:06:02.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24776" CreationDate="2014-09-19T14:06:38.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to how to make the 28 like a 32 by adjusting in the front&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is 14%  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let assume you had a 36 up front now&lt;br&gt;&#xA;32 / 36 = 28 / x&lt;br&gt;&#xA;x = (28 / 32) * 36&lt;br&gt;&#xA;x = (7 / 8) * 36&lt;br&gt;&#xA;x = 31.5  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;31 - 32 is kind of small for a road bike and the front derailleur might not handle it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a lower gear you are going to need to add teeth in the rear or take them away in the front.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not about a calculator to tell you what gear you need. &#xA;If you cannot hold your target cadence on a climb then you need a lower gear. &#xA;If 32 is working for your buddies and you hold with them on the flats then why not try a 32.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 32 / 28 a cadence of 90 is only 13 km/h   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 36 / 28 a cadence of 90 is 14.6 km/h&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you cannot hold a cadence of 90 on a 36 / 28 then you are not going to get the speed you want  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T14:57:03.703" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T14:57:03.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24769" CreationDate="2014-09-19T14:16:08.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went through a similar exercise this summer.  Maybe my experience can be helpful.  I have 15 year old Mountain bike with XTR components all around.  My 6 year old chain starting to bind in a couple of links so I decided to change it out.  I did not buy a Shimano chain but used a KMC 8 speed chain from LBS.  I made the mistake of throwing out the old chain.  I could have soaked it in degreaser and fixed it.  I started skipping immediately,  I decided since both the cassette (XTR) and front cranks/rings (XTR) where at 10 years old I might as well change them out.  I ordered a new shimano 8 speed cassette and new shimano cranks, plus a new bottom bracket.  Since shimano does not make any high end 8 speed stuff I had to settle for what they had.  I was not in the mood to purchase used XTR that matched.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am not by any means a pro rider and I live where mountain biking offers few challenging places to go, so I don't need XTR, I have become a component snob unfortunately.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cassette came in right away.  The cranks were back ordered.  So I changed out the cassette and it still skipped.  I couldn't figure it out until I realized that the front chain rings were skipping.  It was imperceptible, even looking at the front chain ring while riding I could not see the chain skipping but I could feel it skipping.  So I was nervous when the cranks came in.  I installed them, re-tuned everything again.  Viola, the bike was back to perfection again.  I have ridden about 250 miles on the toughest terrain that Chicago land has to offer and no skipping what so ever.    And amazingly enough, now that I have some lower end components I can still ride.  The lower end stuff I installed has made no discernable difference in my experience.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So see if your front rings are worn out.  If so, change the rings if you can or change the entire unit.  Generally you should change the chain depending on riding, about every 500 to 1000 miles.  Change the cassette a bit less frequently and change the rings a bit after that.  If you use a worn chain it will grind and wear out the cassette and chain rings prematurely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13828" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T14:16:08.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2014-09-19T14:22:38.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;POC also makes a helmet that is both snow and bike  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pocsports.com/en/product/1229/receptor-backcountry-mips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Receptor Backcountry MIPS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rain I use a bern with hard bill to help keep the water off my face &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T14:22:38.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24779" CreationDate="2014-09-19T17:17:48.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The scenario described is safe a certain number of times, however, if this activity is repeated enough something will fatigue and break or wear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you can travel such a rock/root section at speed with a given bike doesn't mean you should. A Cross Country bike is normally optimized for weight and have a geometry that is more oriented to be efficient when pedalling. This is important because of the fork angle and head tube structure. Your bike has a &quot;more upright&quot; angle compared to a Downhill bike. When the wheel hits a root, the impact is very close to perpendicular to head tube, putting a lot of stress on the crown, particularly the crown-steerer joint, and on the headtube, specifically the joints with the top tube and the down tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike can survive a number of abuses, but eventually material fatigue will kick in and one of the joints will develop a crack. Once this happens the piece is lost, the crack will expand progressively more with each hit (even the smaller ones) until catastrophic failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A DH bike in contrast will have a less steep fork angle, which in part allows it to absorb (a bigger) part of the horizontal impact through it's travel, and this impact won't be as close to perpendicular to the angle of the head tube. Both differences help reduce the load the parts have to bear with. Add to this that a DH bike is reinforced in key parts, including joints (they are beefier, thus heavier) and will usually have a dual crown fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An All-mountain bike would be somewhere in-between and would be better suited for root sections like the ones you describe, because they aren't as heavy as a DH bike and are still designed for better pedalling than a DH bike; they are heavier than XC bikes though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in your habitual routes there is only a few root sections, the you may be better simply slowing down &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; the beginning of the section, and traverse at a controlled speed at which you feel confident on both your technique and the bike's endurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also improve your technique. I suspect you are already doing this, but for other riders that get here: Position yourself centred on the bike, stand up on the pedals but keeping the knees bent (i.e. just lift your butt four-six inches from the saddle, do not fully extend legs), pedals at the same height, Arms bent with elbows pointing outwards. This position allows you to complement the suspension, effectively using arms and legs as a suspension. You must have a firm grip but not be tense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point is: If you are braking when you hit a bump, you increase the load on the parts. It is better to release the brake and apply it when the tire is on a more even patch of terrain. Of course this is not possible if the roots  are too close one another, that's why I recommend regulating the speed before the root section, so you keep brake usage to a minimum on the most critical segment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No suspension is capable of doing ALL the work, you've got to help it, think of yourself as a form of &quot;active smart&quot; suspension. This means for example that when you know you are going to hit a root, you prepare your arms and try to move the wheel up just before the hit, and then down to the ground again after reaching the top of that root. The same can be done with the legs. This is an ability that takes time but is really useful for riding bikes with little or no suspension on rough terrains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are combinations of terrain and speed that simply exceed a bike's designed capacity. If possible, upgrade to a full suspension XC bike or an All-mountain one. You'll find yourself riding more confidently on more technically challenging trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension travel used as you note, is a good measure, assuming the suspension is well adjusted and your technique is right. 10cm (100 mm, 4 inch) is a good travel for an XC fork, thus a 10 cm root completely out of the ground is practically the most it can take without help from the rider. An AM bike should have a fork travel in the 130mm-170mm range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case: I'm an XC and DH rider, and have a hardtail, a full-suspension and a DH bike. I can ride any of the DH tracks I know even with the hardtail bike, (except jumps and drops) but to do it safely, I have to keep a moderate speed on technical sections. The first signal I get when riding to hard on a too light bike are the pinch flats, (and I ride them to 40psi minimum) so at that point I know I am close to the bike's limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested, in this answer I cover more of the technique for descending faster and more confidendly: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9790/what-skills-drills-should-i-learn-to-descend-faster-and-more-confidently-for-m/9878#9878&quot;&gt;What skills/drills should I learn to descend faster and more confidently? (for mountain biking)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:46:13.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24779" CreationDate="2014-09-19T19:52:45.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's safe as long as you use your body properly. Learn about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;proper neutral posture while descending:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;light hands, heavy feet (stay above BB, mostly with your feet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't sit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knees bent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;elbows out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;back straight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look ahead (read the terrain), not on your front wheel, nor the obstacle itself for too much time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dealing with obstacles (roots, rocks etc):&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choose a good line, since you are already looking ahead and not down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;compress/weight before an obstacle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;uncompress/unweight while hitting the obstacle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've never heard, thought or done any of the above before then give it a try. It'll improve your safety, confidence and handling on the bike. If you've been riding long enough not doing the above then it may be difficult to adjust. But it'll eventually happen. It needs practice and it'll not come overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find this stuff interesting and you are really interested in improving your technique I suggest finding a skills lesson/course to take and also reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004D2BD1Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Mastering-Mountain-Bike-Skills-Edition-ebook/dp/B004D2BD1Q&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2014-09-21T06:39:28.397" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T06:39:28.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-19T21:24:39.533" Score="1" ViewCount="17507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2013 Cannondale Quick 6 Hybrid for my daily commute almost exactly a year ago, and I'm looking to give it some upgrades. It currently has a 7-speed Shimano Altus derailleur, and I was hoping to replace it with something a bit more &quot;road&quot;-y, like the Shimano Claris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the Shimano Claris is an 8-speed derailleur while both my cassette and shifter are 7-speed. Also, I don't see anything saying if the Claris would work with the rapid-fire shifters (also Shimano) that I have on my bike right now. The chain is certainly 8-speed compatible, but that's about as much as I can be certain of at this point. If I wanted to switch out my derailleur to the 8-speed, what other parts and/or changes would I have to buy or make in order to make it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the help in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13833" LastActivityDate="2017-09-12T11:35:04.603" Title="Can I change my 7-speed rear derailleur to an 8-speed?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24794" CreationDate="2014-09-19T22:15:55.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rear derailleur's speed markings are generally for marketing purposes - if you're under 10 speed in Shimano, you can swap between road and mountain rear derailleurs without problems provided they have enough capacity for the rear cog combination you're using - the cable pull is the same, so road and mountain shifters can't tell the difference (often in fact, you'll see touring bikes or road bikes with big rear cogs with Shimano Deore derailleurs since the mountain derailleurs can have bigger cogs in the back at the cost of a few grams of extra weight and looking less cool). The speed number you can effectively ignore, since the amount the derailleur moves is determined by the amount the shifters pull the cable (in theory, the cage might be thinner or something, but in practice this doesn't really matter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also won't notice a difference in performance or anything if you just stuck a Claris rear derailleur on. It would just be a waste of money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want 8 speeds, you need to buy an 8 speed cassette (Shimano compatible) and an 8 speed Shimano shifter for the rear. You can keep the existing derailleur - you just need to adjust it a bit. You'll need some special tools (cassette remover, cable cable cutter, big crescent wrench) in addition to hex keys in order to do this as well. Swap the shifter and put the cassette on, adjust the derailleur and you've got an 8 speed setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think you should just stick with 7 speeds as it is sufficient for commuting (the extra speed doesn't really help - its just a bit easier to find 8 speed parts these days, so thats pretty much the only reason to go from 7 to 8). Spend your money on beer or something instead. The Cannondale Quick 6 is a relatively cheap hybrid (~500 dollars new), so if you want something faster, you're probably better off getting a different bike with probably more aggressive gearing and geometry (say a flat bar road bike like the Giant Escape or something if you want to stick with flat bars). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T22:15:55.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-19T23:00:54.933" Score="3" ViewCount="2308" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I'm riding my bike, it looks as if the rear tyre is carrying more weight than the front tyre: The rear tyre looks more squished downwards, even though both are equally well-inflated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This I think has been true for every bike I've had. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I just imagining it or is this generally so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might this also explain why the rear tyre is more susceptible to wear and tear than the front? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11164" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T02:39:53.760" Title="Does the rear tyre carry more weight than the front tyre?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24796" CreationDate="2014-09-19T23:06:07.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, the weight distribution of a rider on a bicycle is &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/06/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-bike-fitting-and-setup_224895&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;something like 40 - 60&lt;/a&gt; rather than 50-50 (front to back). This contributes to increased rear tire wear (along with rear wheel drive) causing front tires to sometimes &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;last three times as long as rear tires&lt;/a&gt;. Skid stops (such as on a fixie) can also increase rear tire wear relative to normal stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An aside: You don't need to run your tires at equal pressure - in fact, in most cases, the rear tire is about &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;10% higher than the front tire&lt;/a&gt;. This will make it deflect a bit less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T23:21:34.267" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T23:21:34.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24799" CreationDate="2014-09-20T00:28:26.587" Score="0" ViewCount="1470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Specialized Secteur with a Shimano Claris 2400 crankset (compact). I'd like to buy a Stages power meter but they do not sell Claris crank arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I simply put a 105 crank arm on a Claris crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13834" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T19:51:01.670" Title="Can I fit a 105 crank arm (stages) to a Claris 2400 crankset?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24798" CreationDate="2014-09-20T01:30:02.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a modern 105 - Claris cranksets are octalink, 105 cranksets are hollowtech. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T01:30:02.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24796" CreationDate="2014-09-20T02:14:17.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stand your bike against the fence and step away. &#xA;Most of your weight is on the seat and seat is closer to the rear wheel. &#xA;Second the weight is on the pedals and they are closer to the rear wheel. &#xA;Third the weight is on the handle bar and the  handle bar is closer to the front wheel. &#xA;The only time more weight is on the front wheel is when you lean on the handle bar - nice for hopping the rear wheel over a curb.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes are designed with more weight on the rear so you don't go over the front easily when you jump on the front brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire wear is also about how you brake and more braking is done by the rear wheel because it is more stable to brake with the rear even though the front has more braking power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-20T02:20:55.010" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T02:20:55.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24796" CreationDate="2014-09-20T02:39:53.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at this image&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OVXCR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and draw a vertical line right down the center between the two wheels, you will see that only the part of the rider's body from the shoulders up is ahead of the line -- easily 2/3rds of the weight of the rider is rear of that center line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And I don't know if the numbers work out to make it significant, but keep in mind that when the cyclist applies power to the crank that creates a force vector that shifts more downward force to the rear wheel.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a cyclist gets in an aero tuck, however&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4Fg4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the balance can get close to 50/50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T02:39:53.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24794" CreationDate="2014-09-20T07:36:28.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will be fine with an 8-speed cassette, as long as you also think about compatible shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards the chain width, 6-, 7- and 8-speed are all interchangeable. 9-speed and above, the chain becomes narrower to cater for the extra sprockets on the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As exemplified by @Batman's answer, there is an amount of scepticism regarding how much this narrowing matters, in terms of the smooth running of the drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T07:36:28.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2014-09-20T11:08:48.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that on a longish ride, if I grab a chocolate milk at a quick stop at a convenience store, it keeps me ahead of the dreaded bonk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T11:08:48.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-20T12:09:20.557" Score="2" ViewCount="2004" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to get new fenders/mudguards, and I also need to get a pannier rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, these can sometimes be bought as one unit, they can obviously be bought separately, and I am not sure if one can buy them as a pair that are desgined to go together, but not actually welded together (i.e. could be used separately)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between these 2/3 options, is there any general advice as to which is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike will be used pretty much just on road/paths, most for commuting, very old standard frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8293" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T15:09:38.253" Title="Buying mudguard and pannier together vs separately" Tags="&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24716" CreationDate="2014-09-20T14:41:02.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you typically have muscles knots in the area of your trapezius muscles? If so, you may also need to do some strength training of that area. I've provided one link below (there are many others out there) for some exercises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://stress-free-mama.com/trapezius-muscle-pain/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://stress-free-mama.com/trapezius-muscle-pain/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling is actually pretty demanding that you have decent core strength and flexibility. In addition to the suggestions above regarding bike fit, you should start a core strength program too. The exercises don't take long and it's something to do on your off days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro cyclist Tom Danielson has an entire book on the subject and if you search Youtube you'll find several videos that describes the exercises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T14:41:02.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24570" CreationDate="2014-09-20T15:04:38.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had asked Batman or Trengot to post an answer but they had not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tightened the cassette and it was better but not perfect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I put a new chain on it and not better.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next new cables and it did need new cables but it was not perfect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I noticed the cassette was loose again.  I pull out the torque wrench and torqued it to spec - 45Nm. I was just not torquing it down enough.  Now it is perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T15:04:38.483" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24812" CreationDate="2014-09-20T18:11:57.303" Score="4" ViewCount="36658" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically MTB and road bikes have different brand parts  (like deore / XT; Sora / Utegra etc).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the main differences between the 2 types, that will make it incompatible?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Are there things that do differ, but not affecting the whole system, so I can change only one of them to improve my commute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:39:57.493" Title="Difference between road &amp; mountain drivetrain" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2014-09-20T18:20:33.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The is no comparison of the experienced people to the new one who has participated for the first time in this kind tournaments. I think more someone practice for the event more are the chances to win&#xA;There's a lot of errors here. Flatland speed comparison seems to be solo rec rider vs pro pack. 17-18 is a good number for a solo rec rider riding comfortably, but the pros only average 25-28 solo if they're freaking drilling it or with a group, just look at the average speeds from flat stages. The same thing goes for average speed in the mountains. 9-10 is about right for the just the climbing part for an average joe, but then you compare it to overall average for the climbs and descents for pros. Should be more like 14-15 vs 21-25. Very misleading. I'll simply echo what everyone else has stated about the calorie consumption. Misleading and in some ways simply wrong. Even the bottles of water is misleading as it lists bottles per hour for average joe and then overall stage use for the pros. Comparisons should be made based on the same statistics, not on metrics distorted to make a point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13840" LastEditorUserId="1090" LastEditDate="2014-09-20T21:39:52.647" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T21:39:52.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-20T19:03:06.030" Score="2" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike's recently been in for a service so afterwards I checked that all the gears are shifting and working properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of my testing I put some power through the cranks in the photographed gear and found that the chain slipped. Having found that out, I tested it some more and it's very easy to get the chain to slip in that gear by putting some power through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that normal? Could it be the derailleur set up at fault?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't ever use this gear day-to-day so it doesn't really matter I suppose. However, I'd like to think that everything was 100% working okay having paid for a service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should a service leave a bike in this kind of state? The bike's 11 months old and hasn't been heavily used in that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nfQHI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;gear demonstration&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastEditorUserId="1560" LastEditDate="2014-09-20T20:05:50.590" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T03:44:20.913" Title="Is it normal for the chain to slip in an 'extreme' gear?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24808" CreationDate="2014-09-20T20:41:12.420" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is quite a broad question, so I'll highlight a few parts of the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seatposts/saddles: Probably interchangable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forks: You wouldn't want to swap them, and chances are a beefy mountain fork wouldn't go into a road frame anyway, even if you could get the right headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gearing: Road bikes typically have higher gearing than mountain bikes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are larger chainrings on the crankset on a road bike - typically 52/39 or something or a 50/34 versus a big ring in the low 40s or 30s on a mountain bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear cassette is often smaller on a road bike as well (you won't see a 36t big rear cog on many road bikes, unless they're touring bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front derailleurs: FD's need to be shaped to the number of chainrings (typically 2, less so common 3 on a road bike vs often 3 on a mountain bike) as well as the size of the chainrings. For this reason (and in some cases the amount of cable pull needed to move the front derailleur) you can't mix road cranksets with mountain front derailleurs and mountain cranksets with road front derailleurs. On a mountain frame, you probably can't clear a road double if you were to mount it on, and you may have derailleur mounting issues when putting a mountain crankset on a road frame in some cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear derailleurs: Until 10 speed, you could swap them around when you stuck within the brand (then they introduced different cable pulls introducing shifter incompatibilites, so road shifters have to be paired with road derailleurs and similarly for mountain). The mountain rear derailleurs can shift larger rear cogs than road ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cassettes: You can interchange them if you want in a lot of cases (touring road bikes often use big rear cogs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifters: The front derailleur needs to be matched to road/mountain shifter. Rear derailleur will need to be matched if &gt;=10 speed. Friction shifters always work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels: Mountain rims are often wider to support wider tires at lower pressures and are usually built to be more robust. Your hub widths are often the same, but mountain axles can cause compatibility issues (not just your usual QR) with different frames. Note 700c = 29&quot;. Often wheels built for tougher road riding (e.g. touring) use mountain bike hubs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires: Mountain tires are typically fatter than road tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cables/Cable Housings: You can use the same types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handlebars: Mountain and Road bars have different diameters, so brake levers and shifters designed for one will not fit on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes: Typically, road brakes (mechanical disc brakes for road, caliper brakes, cantilever brakes) are short pull while mountain brakes are often long pull (v-brakes, mechanical disc brakes). This means you require a travel agent or special levers to run v-brakes or certain mechanical disc brakes on a road bike. Hydraulic systems are quite new on road bikes. Since you can't mount the levers onto a mountain bar, exchanging them is somewhat moot at this point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racks+fenders: These are wheel size and disc/not disc specific. Read the directions on the rack+fenders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, road stuff is lighter than mountain stuff. Probably less durable in a crash though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to part 2 of the question: What can you change on a bike to improve your commute? This question has been asked on SE a bunch of times, but typically the answer for commuting on a mountain bike is to lock out your suspension if you can (or switch to a rigid fork) and fit slick tires. You could also try a smaller cassette if you want, but other than that, you're going to want to get a new bike. If you have a road bike, you sometimes will want to fit a big cassette so you have lower gears available (you may need a new chain, and to make sure all the capacities of the derailleurs are within spec, else you may need a new rear derailleur) and bigger tires to make things more comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-09-20T20:46:47.183" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T20:46:47.183" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24810" CreationDate="2014-09-21T02:29:54.700" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with crosschaining with the modern drivetrains, despite what you might read in the comments. In fact, many modern drivetrains are specifically designed to help you to crosschain (like &quot;trim&quot; feature on some front shifters). The ability to use all cassette cogs without having to switch chainrings is too valuable to be given up because of some negligible increase in mechanical stress and wear due to crosschaining. The issue of &quot;crosschaining&quot; was left behind and forgotten back in 1990's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is important to remember that you can still run into mechanical limitations when crosschaining. It all depends on the geometry of your drivetrain. The most well-known one is the chain interference with FD cage or chain interference with the bigger ring. Do you get any of these? I assume you don't since you would be able to hear that immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, then the next issue you might be experiencing is the lack of RD capacity. In this small-small configuration there's lots of extra chain the RD cage has to pick up. If the capacity is insufficient, then you might get chain interference at the RD cage, which might cause many different unpleasant effects, including skipping. Another consequence of insufficient RD capacity is loss of chain tension in small-small combination, which can easily lead to skipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what does your RD cage look like in this gear combination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastEditorUserId="2918" LastEditDate="2014-09-21T02:35:16.753" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T02:35:16.753" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-21T12:14:17.150" Score="4" ViewCount="4365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have GPX files for local MTB riding areas.  In each area picture several connected loops composed of between say 6 and 12 named trails.  In my GPX files all of the trails are individual tracks.  Its really annoying because I have to load each track sequentially as I ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My desired outcome here is to have all of the tracks displayed on my Garmin at the same time so I don't have to keep loading them as I go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, three questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to load multiple &quot;courses&quot; (this is how the tracks are represented on my Garmin 1000) onto the map simulatanmeously so I can load up the entire ride before I go and not have to keep loading the next course (track) while out on the trail? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If #1 is not possible, is there a way to merge all of the tracks into a single track inside the GPX file so they appear as a single course on the Garmin?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If #2 is the solution and possible, once I have the tracks merged, is there a way to add annotations on top of the track to mark the names of each trail (formerly there names of each individual track in the GPX file) so the labels appear on the map on my Garmin?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help on this!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13848" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-09-22T12:57:48.407" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T15:21:16.683" Title="Is there a way to merge tracks within a GPX file?" Tags="&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24393" CreationDate="2014-09-21T15:42:29.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;my list of favourite energy bombs (some are not very portable and some others you may not be able to easily find them in your country):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brown bread with honey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brown bread with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tahini&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tahini (sesame pulp)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;peanut butter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;banana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dried fruits and nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sesame_seed_candy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;compressed sesame with honey&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T15:42:29.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24810" CreationDate="2014-09-21T18:52:52.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In that extreme cross chain configuration you have the maximum amount of chain for the derailleur to take up.  And you also have the least amount of chain tension.  Combine that with on the least number of teeth engaged and you have the configuration that is most likely to jump.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should it jump no.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a shop problem - maybe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In just 11 months the spring in the derailleur could have weakened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you ride on the small gear in the rear even a bit it will wear and new chain might skip.  But given it does not skip on other front gears I would chalk it up to chain tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop may have too many chain lengths.  In biggest front and rear could a chain length be removed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross chaining a road bike or the first two chain rings is something that happens.  But on a mountain bike in the granny gear that extreme cross chaining is just not something that should come up.  I would not put that kind of stress on a chain even to test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some front derailleur have a trim for big to big.  This make sense to me as you may come to a stop but will get back up to speed soon.  And now you have maximum teeth evolved.  I don't know if trims comes in a 3 speed and it would make less sense as the outer is out further.  Even with a trim cross chaining puts more stress on the chain and other components and is not as efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is not about specifically about cross chaining but here is a link.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclechainrings.com/crosschaining.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Technical Details and Implications of Cross Chaining&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the question but the smaller rear gears are going to wear the fastest as they share the load across fewer teeth.  So go for a larger front ring when you have choice. But still avoid cross chaining (a lot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-23T15:54:56.147" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T15:54:56.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24815" CreationDate="2014-09-22T00:38:45.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how the Edge 1000 works, and whether or not it allows showing multiple tracks. Some other Garmin models can do this (ie Etrex), but they work differently in a number of ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, joining tracks in a GPX file is possible, there is a wide variety of software to do this. One option is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garmin.com/en-US/shop/downloads/basecamp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Garmin BaseCamp&lt;/a&gt;, which is available as a free download for Windows or Mac OS. Or you could try EasyGPS or QLandKarte GT. Or GPX files are just XML, so you can edit them in a text editor. If you remove the &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;/trkseg&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;/trk&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; tags from the end of one track, and the &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;trk&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;trkseg&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; from the start of the next, this will combine them into a single track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note there may be drawbacks to this: A GPX track is just a list of points. So a single track needs to be in order, and continuous from the start to the end. So a single track would work for a single mountain bike path, or a continuous loop. But it wouldn't work if the paths splits into several alternative routes, or if you have several unconnected paths. Also there may be a limit on the length of a track you can load on the Edge, ie the number of trackpoints. I'm not familiar with that model, but some Garmins are limited to 10,000 points in a single track. Tracks in a GPX file can have names, but I don't think these will be shown on Garmin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Better solution&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of loading GPX tracks on the Garmin, a better solution could be to produce a map, in Garmin IMG format. Probably the easiest way to do this is to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.javawa.nl/imgfromgpx_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Javawa IMGfromGPX&lt;/a&gt;. You can give a number of GPX files as input, and it will create a map. Advantages of this are you can have as many paths as you want, they don't all have to be continuous or connected. And you can set different styles and colours for each.&#xA;Then load this map onto the Edge. It can be used instead of any other maps you have loaded, or as a transparent overlay on top of other maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;OpenStreetMap&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openstreetmap.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenStreetMap&lt;/a&gt;. If your bike trails are not on OpenStreetMap, you can add them - using aerial imagery if available, or GPX tracks you have recorded. Then you can use OpenStreetMap data to produce maps in Garmin format, or download some ready made OSM Garmin maps. Then these can be loaded onto the Edge 1000, and it will show your trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T00:38:45.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24699" CreationDate="2014-09-22T05:10:31.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're talking about waving a driver around where there's double yellow lines in the center of the road (and blind double yellow at that) indicating that vehicles may not cross it to pass.  Either way, the driver needs to decide when to pass, based on their own visibility and judgment.  Waving around just pressures us to make a possibly bad decision, based on a stranger's judgment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13852" LastEditorUserId="6757" LastEditDate="2014-09-22T14:33:09.340" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T14:33:09.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2014-09-22T13:12:58.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After looking at the setups people were using for the arrowhead 135 race in canada that has start temps around -20f, it looked like everyone was using disc brakes.  Folks were using hydraulic and cable actuated discs (Avid BB7 is wildly popular).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the best things for disc brakes (and your shifters) is FULL HOUSING. This will help keep areas where water could infiltrate to a minimum.  Additionally, if you had bar mits or could cover the tops of your brake levers to avoid water getting in at the top, that would likely be a big help as well.  Hydraulic brakes solve the full housing problem, since they need to be continuous by design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you'll have to be careful of condensation.  If you bring a freezing cold bike in to a warm house, you're likely to have all the moisture in the air cling to every cold metal bit on your bike, that means cables, frame, etc. The air can pull water right in to your housing this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Teflon lined housing might help keep things slick even when it gets a bit frosty and prevent cables rusting to housing.  A thin coating of marine grease or teflon lube may also keep things moving and prevent the cables from absorbing water and limit condensation inside the housing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I would consider Sintered Pads for a winter commuter.  Sintered pads will wear slower and are less prone to contamination than resin / organic material pads. This is especially imporant when the gray slush comes up at your bike from the road, mixed with salt and grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T13:12:58.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-22T14:43:18.293" Score="2" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am running a tiagra compact 50/34t front with a sora 12/32t rear,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still finding the long steep hills a problem, is there a alternative available without going tripple. IE lower front chain rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13856" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T16:02:31.820" Title="Gearing on drivetrains" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24823" CreationDate="2014-09-22T16:02:31.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your only alternative is to get a crankset with a different BCD (bolt circle diameter). You have a 110mm bcd, and while it is possible to use a 33t gear on&#xA;the front, it won't help much and they are difficult and expensive to find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, if 34/32 is not low enough, then by far the most straightforward thing to do is go to a triple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that is not your only choice. You could try using various 2x cranks from the MTB world. The problem there is the large ring size is limited and getting the&#xA;shifting working correctly can be tricky. 42/28 is probably the best you can do, although with some searching you might be able to get a big ring up to 48t. Shifting that big a gap will also present problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are these cranks which offer a compromise btw Road and MTB doubles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/cranksets/grand-cru-50-4bcd-crankset-mkii.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/cranksets/grand-cru-50-4bcd-crankset-mkii.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have a 50.4 BCD and can use chainrings from 28t to 62t. The problem is they don't shift quite as smoothly as more modern chain rings with ramps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Middleburn also makes some double cranks with BCD smaller than 110, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.middleburn.co.uk/products/cranks/road-touring-cyclo-x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.middleburn.co.uk/products/cranks/road-touring-cyclo-x&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surly's Mr Whirly cranksets also come with &quot;spiders&quot; that could be used to &#xA;create a smaller crankset up front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/drivetrain/mr_whirly_crank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/parts/drivetrain/mr_whirly_crank&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you could consider expanding the gearing out back. There are Mountain Cassettes that go up to 42t these days. You'd likely need a new rear derailleur, I'm not sure about the shifting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Wolf-Tooth/Wolf-Tooth-42T-GC-Cog-for-Shimano.axd?gclid=COvqhoaY9cACFcRbfgodLz0AwQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Wolf-Tooth/Wolf-Tooth-42T-GC-Cog-for-Shimano.axd?gclid=COvqhoaY9cACFcRbfgodLz0AwQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, going to a triple is by far the simplest and will actually get the gears you need. All any of these solutions provide is at best 2 more lower gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend switching to a 110/74 triple with something like a 24/36/48. &#xA;If you do get a &quot;road&quot; triple with the standard 30/42/53 gearing, swap the inner 30 for a 26t. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T16:02:31.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2014-09-23T00:34:38.070" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recumbents &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be faster. As was previously mentioned, all of the land speed records for human powered vehicles were set with fully faired recumbents (velomobiles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what will really make the difference is the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider this rider you've never heard of, Andy Wilkinson. In 1990 he broke the record for fastest bicycle trip from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land%27s_End_to_John_o%27_Groats&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lands End to John O'Groats&lt;/a&gt;, 874 miles (1,407 km), at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/?showtopic=25499&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;45 hours 2 minutes 19 seconds&lt;/a&gt;, on a bicycle. In 1996 he did the same trip again, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.advancedvelodesign.com/windcheetah/windcheetah-recumbent-trike-scrapbook.php#record-breaking&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this time in a fully faired recumbent&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ej0ap4WZW9g#t=4m37s&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;broke his own record&lt;/a&gt;, coming in at 41 hours 4 minutes 22 seconds. (This number is unofficial because it didn't take place on a &lt;em&gt;two wheeled&lt;/em&gt; bicycle, but no one else has yet beaten this time...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that ride he occasionally exceeded 75 mph (120 km/h) on descents. And that was a nearly 20 year old machine. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.advancedvelodesign.com/windcheetah/windcheetah-recumbent-trike-hypersport.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;typical top end recumbent&lt;/a&gt; of today is much more technologically advanced, and is usually partially faired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfAp1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2014 Windcheetah HyperSport&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recumbents also do very well in time trials and ultramarathon events such as the Race Across America.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how will it do for your commute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all recumbents are designed for road racing, of course. The things you want to look for which will improve your ride both on roads and forest trails in all weather include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A larger rear wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear suspension (or all-wheel suspension, rare)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High ground clearance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability to mount fatter tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fenders (which also fit around the tires!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some current (2015 model year) possibilities include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hpvelotechnik.com/produkte/gekko_fx26/index_e.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gekko from HP Velotechnik&lt;/a&gt; uses a 26 inch rear wheel to help with obstacles you might run over on the road or even forest trails. It also has an electric option. It also has higher ground clearance, to make it easier to clear obstacles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catrike.com/#!expedition/c2465&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catrike Expedition&lt;/a&gt; has higher ground clearance and a 26 inch wheel. This trike is often called the SUV of trikes. Or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catrike.com/#!road/csky&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Road&lt;/a&gt; which has a 20 inch rear wheel but also includes rear suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icetrikes.co/explore-our-trikes/adventure&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ICE Adventure 26&lt;/a&gt; also has a 26 inch wheel and has high ground clearance; the seat is also much higher than many other trikes. It also includes rear suspension and has a front suspension option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also other trikes for &lt;em&gt;primarily&lt;/em&gt; off-road use, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gizmag.com/scorpion-fs-enduro-recumbent-trike/29122/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;HPV's Enduro&lt;/a&gt;. And a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icetrikes.co/community/ice-blog/south-pole-by-trike&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;modified ICE Sprint&lt;/a&gt; was used to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gizmag.com/south-pole-fat-trike/30245/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ride to the South Pole&lt;/a&gt;, beating two bicycle riders. I suspect your forest trails are not quite so demanding as to make these reasonable for your commute, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you find a local bike (trike?) shop which &lt;em&gt;specializes&lt;/em&gt; in recumbents, or perhaps several shops, and take them for test rides. Unless you have a very large recumbent dealer nearby, they may not have the exact model you are looking for in stock, so you may find yourself riding a similar model. Be prepared to travel if you want to test ride the perfect recumbent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, back to your original question. To ask it accurately, you must ask whether &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; will be faster on a recumbent trike! The answer is, maybe. Once you get your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/recumbent/525155-developing-bent-legs.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;recumbent legs&lt;/a&gt;, which may take a month or two, you should be at about the same overall speed, give or take a km/h or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you can go faster, well, that's entirely up to you. I expect you will find that the experience of riding the recumbent is so much more comfortable that you won't miss an extra minute or two - or just might even want to ride more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6757" LastEditorUserId="6757" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T16:41:17.397" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T16:41:17.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24808" CreationDate="2014-09-23T09:22:51.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main differences to the drive train is the length of the rear derailleur arm.&#xA;MTBs have lower and wider spaced gearing which means the rear derailleur has to handle a bigger span in chain length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A MTB typically has a large chainring with 42 teeth and a small one with 22 and a rear cassette with 12 - 28 tooth span - so the chain has to fit both a 42+28 combo and a 22+12 combo. That makes for a span of 70 - 34 = 36 teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a typical road bike, the biggest combo is 52+22 and the smallest is 42+11, thus a span of 72 - 53 = 19 teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to keep the chain tight, the derailleur has to be able to &quot;suck up&quot; 17 more chain links on a MTB, which is why it has a longer arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5687" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T09:22:51.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2014-09-23T14:10:25.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really, the one from Nu Vinci is closest but&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Has manual shift&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the weight factor is an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major problem in developing is the input power is too low for a fully mechanical system to respond smoothly and if you include electronics it becomes too complex. But I believe some solution is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13866" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T01:26:40.857" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T01:26:40.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24699" CreationDate="2014-09-23T14:59:02.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with most answers stating that you can't make a decision for another road user, however, I want to share something that happens on my country, Honduras, were we have a generally poor vehicular culture, and just the first attempts are being made towards motorist accepting bicyclists as legitimate road and street users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our roads, truck drivers (18 wheelers) use to swerve temporarily towards the right while flashing the left turn indicator which is interpreted by small vehicle drivers as an invitation to overtake, indicating that the driver of the truck is aware that it is slowing down the rest of the traffic and that those drivers &quot;are there&quot; trying to overtake. The decision, of course is always for the small car driver to make, the truck driver won't get angry if you don't overtake right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had similar interactions on the road while I'm on the bike and an 18 wheeler driver performed the same signals and even waved with his hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm trying to show is that waving for a driver that is behind you is &lt;strong&gt;not you taking the decision for them, instead it means that you are aware of their need to overtake&lt;/strong&gt; and are briefly &quot;willing to collaborate&quot;, i.e. you indicate that you won't be taken by surprise is the manoeuvre is performed normally in that moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also had a type of interaction where I was riding a bike and asked a driver not to overtake by waving my hand palm side down. This was because there where parked cars at both sides of a narrow street. As soon as there were more space, I waved him/her back as I swerved right. The driver seemed happy with the action, and greeted with a couple of beeps as passing by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this is subjective/anecdotal, but I wanted to point out that there is another &lt;strong&gt;interpretation for this type of signals&lt;/strong&gt;, but also, that this &lt;strong&gt;depends a lot on local culture&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:43:53.227" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:43:53.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6843" CreationDate="2014-09-23T15:24:07.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem sounds just like one I just fixed on my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine sat around unused for several years, then had a problem of slipping when I rode up hill, so sat another year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It slipped under higher load and not during shifting. The chain and sprockets looked fine so I figured it had to do with the freehub being gunked up. While I didn't have the tools to remove the rear sprocket to get to the freehub, I removed the axle and sprayed the heck out of the rear wheel with brake part cleaner, re-lubed the bearings and soaked the reassembled wheel with WD40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works great now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13868" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T01:29:37.997" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T01:29:37.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-23T17:02:20.687" Score="7" ViewCount="834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to get some tips and suggestions for having a partner drive support for long rides (training or touring). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it best to plan spots that they will meet you and can get to your location of needed (before moving on to a next location)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We often see documentaries and shorts shot from a following vehicle but I assume that having someone follow close with the hazard lights on isn't quite safe (or legal?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those of you who have driven out arranged for a partner to drive support, how do you logistically do so? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5358" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T08:36:45.643" Title="Tips for having partner drive support." Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24832" CreationDate="2014-09-23T17:57:30.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Except in a few cases, like on highways where you shouldn't be riding anyway, most places don't have minimum speed limits. So I don't see why it would be illegal for a car to travel at the same speed as the cyclist, as long as they are a safe distance behind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is for them to drive ahead and wait for you to catch up. You should agree on a route before hand, and make sure both parties are clear on what the route is.  They should know when to expect your arrival, and you should communicate via cell phone if you are going to be behind (such as when you get a flat). If you don't reach the car by the designated time, they should turn around and go backwards on the route until they find you.  How far ahead the car is depends on a few factors such as how long you think is safe to be out of contact in the event of an accident.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safest would probably be to have the car right behind you at all times, as they would immediately be able to help you.  The further ahead the car is, the more time it will take them to respond, but it will be less boring for the driver as they will be able to pull over and read a book, watch a movie, or play a video game while they wait for you to catch up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T17:57:30.077" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24832" CreationDate="2014-09-23T18:28:00.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this for a group of riders or just one rider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll share the experience I had from a big group cross-roads biking event I was part of as a Cyclist, so you can take ideas and maybe create a better plan for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were going to cycle across country from north coast to south coast. So first we departed from the country's capital city towards the ride starting point. Two busses for the riders and support personnel, two trucks for the bikes and other items (advertising banners, podium structure, etc). Also a couple of small vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once we got to the starting point, the busses served as logistics vehicles, carrying everyone's luggage, and support personnel with food, drinks and tools. The busses departed before us and parked a few kilometres ahead in a previously selected point. (Each bus in a different spot). After a while the busses departed again, overtaking the cycling group and repeating this a few more times. The stops where somewhere like 15-20km (10-15 miles) apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smaller vehicles were also carrying food and tools, but they where going back and forth, sweeping the whole span of the cycling group. And a police officer was riding a motorcycle behind the last rider. The smaller vehicles would drive forward up to a certain point, then go back until they find the motorcycle behind the last rider and then drive forward again, sweeping for stranded cyclists who could not get to the next support point (bus) by themselves. If necessary the vehicle would pick up the rider and bike and take them to the bus. If possible, mechanical or medical support would be delivered by this smaller vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole ride spanned seven days over nine cities. Every stage was from one city to another, (except one stage in which we visited one city just for a few hours ant then continued to a second city). Each day every rider would unload his/her luggage from the busses for the sleep over and load it again the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the vehicles would be driven at normal road speed and stopped either on planned spots or to help a stopped cyclist, but wouldn't be driven at cyclist speed. The only exception would be the cop's motorcycle at the back of the group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each cyclist would ride a his/her own pace, except the pros, who would form peloton. The exception would be that the arrival departure points where a few kilometres outside the city. To go from/to these points to/from downtown, the whole group would form a tight peloton lead by a police car and would travel at around 20km/hr taking the hole lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this form of logistics worked very well for a group of near 100 riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was to plan a vehicle supported long ride for a single rider (or a very small group), I would set the car to depart some minutes behind me, calculating to meet me on the road near the mid point of the distance towards a next planned stop point, and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distance between the stop points would be what the average of the group would ride in one hour. That means that the car would depart so they meet the group in 30 minutes after the riders started, would drive past us and wait nearly 30 minutes for us in the next stop point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope these ideas serve your purpose and that you are abe to adapt some to your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: As noted in one of the comments, the support car itself may suffer a failure. It may be obvious to say that the support vehicle shall be in the best operating condition, and must pass a mechanical revision prior to the ride, as with any car-travel activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think there are at least two possible alternatives:&#xA;1) Is to let the riders depart first and the car attempts to get to the next stop almost at the same time as the cyclists, thus remaining behind the riders all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Let the car go first, and the riders would catch up at the next stop. If any rider suffers an accident or a failure for which she/he can't get over, then the support car shall be asked to go back to pick them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The planner of the ride must adapt the strategy according to the probability of bike/rider/car failure and to the capability of the riders to fix common issues, or known rider health issues. For example, if no rider carries flat fixing tools, then it is better for the car to reamin behind the riders at all times. But if the riders carry tools and food, then for a little more of a thrill the car can be let ahead of the riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:41:52.603" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:41:52.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24846" CreationDate="2014-09-23T19:35:46.497" Score="3" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first wheelset build here. I am following &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-tires.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this guy&lt;/a&gt;. They both stress very much to tighten the nipples to an equal length, for example just as the spoke threads stop showing, and the even more carefully, do equal number of turns on each nipple, in small increments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building the front wheel I followed this advice and the result was several very tight spokes and a wheel out of true. My next step was basically to make the tension on all spokes equal, and then true the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheel is true now and &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; ready for use (dishing error, vertical and horizontal mis-alignment are small).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So why equal number of turns, if in the end equal tension is the desired result?&lt;/strong&gt; Or did I do something wrong? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another note, the rim freshly-purchased, should be true (looks true, and carrying the two rims next to each other, there were no gaps between them, meaning at least sideways being true). So it makes sense to tighten the spokes with equal tension, to avoid twisting the rim, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I triple checked that the nipples are well seated into the eyelets and that the lacing pattern is equal everywhere and the same as on an another wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-09-23T19:44:03.260" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T10:41:07.947" Title="Why is it important to keep equal number of turns when building a wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24840" CreationDate="2014-09-23T20:09:43.423" Score="1" ViewCount="1935" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if I can use new gear shifters, especially integrated road bike shifters, with vintage a Shimano 600 Arabesque rear derailleur? Will the pull ratio of the shifter and derailleur match? Also, should I stick to Shimano or could I use Campagnolo, SRam, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I have a 9-speed modern cassette and the my frame was stretched to fit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional question: do you think the 600 will handle a 9 speed cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10462" LastEditorUserId="10462" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T17:40:28.413" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T17:40:28.413" Title="Are new Shimano shifters compatible with old 600 Arabesque derailleurs?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24835" CreationDate="2014-09-23T20:43:01.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Then you did not follow the advice if you had several very tight spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The important thing at this stage is to get all 36 spokes to be as&#xA;  close as possible to the same setting, all pretty loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is a starting point with equal lengths.  And all pretty loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your wheel threads out of site was probably too much of a starting point. &#xA;Once the treads go out of site the only reference you have to one relative to the other is to count turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-23T20:48:23.540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T20:48:23.540" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24808" CreationDate="2014-09-23T22:27:48.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Main difference is tooth count, and that imposes differences in derailleur dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other answer mentions, gear range is wider in a MTB, so the rear derailleur has to be able to take-up more chain slack. A longer cage solves this. As long as they are designed with the same cable pull ratio, they are compatible, you can easily fit an MTB derailleur to a road frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front derailleur are sized accordingly to the chainring and whether the crankset is double or triple. Chainring count and size determine derailleur cage shape and clamp height relative to bottom bracket. One size is not compatible with the other, I know from experience. Some combinations may be made to work, but you have to fiddle a lot, and maybe modify some parts. I don't think it's worth it. Some frames may not allow a different derailleur to be installed high or low enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear derailleur on the other hand are more cross compatible. I have seen MTB derailleurs and cassettes on road frames but I don't remember precisely what shifter where they using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, I have a Shimano Sora road derailleur on a DH bike with an 8 speed SRAM11-28 cassette, controlled by a Microshift shifter. Sure the cassette is wider than usual for a Sora derailleur, but the DH bike has only one chainring, so no tooth difference problems arose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In another case, I have an old road bike that came with a 6 speed 12-22 freewheel that I replaced with a 6 speed 12-28 while keeping the rear derailleur. However, I did not change the chain so I can't use the big chainring with all the rear gears yet. This bike uses friction shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to improve your commute by changing drivetrain parts, I would first ask if you spend a lot of time in the lowest gear or if there are climbs in your commute that are close to impossible with the gears you have. If the answer is yes, then put in an MTB cassette with a medium cage MTB derailleur. Just verify that for your rear gear count the shifters and deraileurs have the same cable pull ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second option would be a compact road crankset and maybe a different front derailleur. Some cranksets may allow you to change just the chainrings for smaller ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have noted some entry level road bikes that have a very small small chainring, which would give lower gear ratios, all the other parts being the same, maybe you can fit one of those cranksets to your current bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A road crankset may not fit a mountain frame because the bigger chainrings may rub the chainstays, which in a mountain bike are more separated from each other to allow for the wider tires. A road crankset is designed for a narrower frame, so its chainrings and cranks are closer to frame's centerline. Conversely, an MTB crankset may put the chainrings too far from the frame's centreline for a road front derailleur to operate properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:39:57.493" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:39:57.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24836" CreationDate="2014-09-23T22:54:05.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that if you're running a Shimano 600 system, you've probably got a 5 or 6 speed drivetrain and the lowest number of speeds on a modern brifter [integrated shift+brake lever] is 7 (the Shimano Tourney brifters are 7 speed). So you'd need either downtube shifters, bar end shifters, or stem shifters (all of which likely will operate in friction mode unless you can find a Shimano compatible one which matches the number of speeds you have with the cable pull matching Shimano). I believe the cable pull is the same as modern &amp;lt;9 speed Shimano rear derailleurs though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campy and SRAM usually have different cable pull and they wont produce a brifter which is 5 or 6 speeds anyway so you're stuck with friction mode (generally, mixing manufacturers causes problems and requires pulleys to adjust for cable pull). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is (since you likely have downtube shifters) are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gevenalle.com/store/products/shifters/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Retroshifts&lt;/a&gt;, which are a way of taking your existing down tube / bar end shifters and attaching them to a brake lever. This removes the problem as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T22:54:05.123" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24574" CreationDate="2014-09-24T00:49:27.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say it can be normal because there are many factors can stress a wheel and depends on the quality of the wheels, they might need to be trued again. There's an article about how they build wheels at Bontrager: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/inside-bontragers-wisconsin-wheel-factory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Inside Bontrager Wheel Factory&quot;&gt;Inside Bontrager Wheel Factory&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tldr;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expensive wheels are trued, stressed, trued, and stressed again, trued again. Your wheels were trued in the factory (maybe only once), then you stressed them and now somebody needs to true them again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T00:49:27.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24843" CreationDate="2014-09-24T03:07:46.883" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see outer 130 BCD chainrings with 52T/39T. &#xA;Why the the 39T in the label? &#xA;How does the outer care or know what the inner ring is? &#xA;What would be different about  52T/42T?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the 39T care what size the bigger is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 52T/39T that I want to take down to a like a 48T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T04:02:21.147" Title="Outer chainring with two sizes" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24842" CreationDate="2014-09-24T04:02:21.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Front derailleurs are optimized for certain gaps between the rings and are limited to that - for example, the FD-6700 series from Shimano has a 16t front chainring difference (relating the outer and inner chainring size). There are also size constraints on the chainrings which determine the maximum and minimum size of chainrings you can use due to the shaping of the cage. If you're below the difference, within the chainring size limits and the derailleur clears the chainrings, you're good. So 52/42 should work. As should a 48 for the large ring on most road FD's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the olden days, people had &quot;half step gearing&quot; which the front chainrings were close in size and they would crosschain (partially to get closer gearing and partially because old derailleurs couldn't shift 16t chainring differences). You can still do this now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;52/39's are probably marked that way since a lot of people run that combination (and probably put it in the search bar for either chainring). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T04:02:21.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21757" CreationDate="2014-09-24T06:52:51.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you've replaced your cassette and chain and you're still getting slippage, the next logical thing to check is the chainset.  The teeth up front wear down too and that can sometimes be the cause of slippage.  It can be hard to distinguish between rear cog slips and doesn't necessarily occur across all cogs at the back as you assume it would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1131" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T06:52:51.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24835" CreationDate="2014-09-24T10:00:55.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Daniel and Jahaziel are bang on with their comments, but it is probably worth expanding a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the front wheel, as this is more straightforward:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you assume a perfect world, a round rim, correct length spokes etc, then if the tension in every spoke is the same, and the tension in every spoke is the correct value for the rim, then you will have a perfectly true wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can say this because a front wheel is built symmetrically. For a rear wheel (assuming a cassette or freewheel comes into play), you need to consider drive- and non-drive- sides separately. Anyway...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously since the tension in the spokes is governed by the number of turns of a nipple key, you can under these circumstances say that the number of turns should be consistent across all spokes. So this is where the theory is coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem comes because of imperfections. The rim may not be perfectly round, and/or the wheel as a whole might track to the left or right, rather than straight ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To correct these imperfections, you need to adjust the tension in the relevant spokes (or, again as Daniel says, groups of spokes) to bring the wheel into true. So you will be tweaking spokes' tensions such that they likely end up slightly different to each other. This is where practise deviates from theory. So far from it being &quot;important to keep the number of turns the same&quot;, it is actually pretty inevitable that they will be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a couple of general comments, first of all, I was taught to build wheels by a real person (who was themselves a good wheelbuilder) - I would hate to have to rely on Sheldon or YouTube for this, so.....respect! What you're doing is not necessarily easy. Second, as a guide, getting the wheel &quot;roughly&quot; correct is quite straightforward, getting it perfectly true is somewhat more time-consuming. You'd probably expect this - there is definitely an 80/20 thing going on here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T10:41:07.947" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T10:41:07.947" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24848" CreationDate="2014-09-24T10:25:21.257" Score="2" ViewCount="818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left my bike in a shed, probably someone hit it, it fell and now the front wheel is bent. Not too bent, but when riding it oscillates with about 1 cm. Of course, this is messing with the brakes, but this can be avoided by making the space near the wheel larger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're talking about a pretty cheap bike, that is an important asset for me, and I want to find a cheap way to fix it. So, my options would be to adjust the breaks and use it like this (the cheapest, but i don't know if it is risky), to go to a repair shop and get the wheel straightened (I don't know if it's possible or if it's worth it) and change the wheel (cleanest way, but a little bit expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13875" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T16:36:02.617" Title="Front wheel bent" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24847" CreationDate="2014-09-24T12:49:55.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wobble like that, particularly if it wasn't caused by some severe damage, can usually be fixed by truing the wheel. You will need a spoke wrench of the right size to fit the spoke nipples, but you can get by without a truing stand and just use the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Park Tools site has a pretty good guide to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/wheel-and-rim-truing&quot;&gt;wheel truing&lt;/a&gt;, as does the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an overview, you will want to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check each spoke to see if one is broken. A wobble the size you are talking about is frequently caused by a broken spoke. If one is broken and you are a novice a bike repair this is probably the point at which you take the wheel to the shop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use a dry erase marker to put a tick mark on the rim above any spoke that is significantly loose compared to it's neighbors. It's likely that in the area of the wobble you will find one or more loose spokes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Following the repair guides linked above, adjust the spokes in the area of the wobble until it no longer brushes the brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No Truing Stand Trick:&lt;/strong&gt; Now take a velcro strap or piece of twine and use that to hold the brakes slightly tighter. Repeat Step 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be patient and use small (1/4 or 1/8) turns of the spoke wrench, and you will have a wheel that is straight and true before you know it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T12:49:55.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23611" CreationDate="2014-09-24T12:50:01.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Initially I thought this was an Olmo but it looks like Japanese bike frame builder 3RENSHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see some on Google or here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/39068621@N08/4620234666&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.flickr.com/photos/39068621@N08/4620234666&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13876" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T12:50:01.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-24T18:43:58.713" Score="1" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to put the lockring back on my BB after adjusting it to reduce the play, but I am unable to full tighten it. I can hand tighten the lockring, but as soon as I try to use my hook spanner to tighten it more, it kind of slips and becomes loose again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are my threads toast? Is my lockring warped? Or could it be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did this same maintenance on my bike less than two weeks ago and I didn't encounter any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI: My bike is a 1980's Raleigh Capri 410 with regular threads (righty tighty, lefty loosey)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13877" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T14:46:01.050" Title="BB Lockring won't completely tighten" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24574" CreationDate="2014-09-24T22:50:30.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically lower-level wheels are machine built and oftentimes not pre stressed. When you ride the bike, the nipples and spokes will seat themselves into the rim or the hub, changing their length and tension slightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a couple rides they will need to be trued. Once or twice is fairly common. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8930" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T22:50:30.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14740" CreationDate="2014-09-25T00:23:05.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting a little &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Glycerol&amp;amp;oldid=625565424&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;glycerol&lt;/a&gt; (aka &quot;glycerin&quot; or &quot;glycerine&quot;) in the water will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glycerol is edible, sweet to the taste. It will do double duty by giving you a few extra calories, and lowering the freezing point of your solution because it acts as an antifreeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it's also bacteriostatic, &lt;em&gt;unlike&lt;/em&gt; sucrose/glucose, it also shouldn't encourage microbial growth in the hydration system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, sports drinks probably shouldn't contain more than &lt;a href=&quot;http://runnersconnect.net/running-nutrition-articles/best-sports-drink-marathon/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;about 8% carbohydrate&lt;/a&gt;, and an 8% glycerol solution will only give you about &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Glycerol_%28data_page%29&amp;amp;oldid=577802637#Freezing_point_of_aqueous_solutions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1-1.5˚C extra headroom&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7263" LastEditorDisplayName="user7263" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T15:25:54.867" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T15:25:54.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14740" CreationDate="2014-09-25T00:49:45.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a quick release in the hose can help a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Hs4x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;camelback quick release&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, just the valve end freezes and the quick release allows you to get a drink. Click the system back together and stick the frozen end in your jacket. Generally it thaws in a few minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The insulated hoses don't do all that much. By far the best solution is the packs in which the hose is entirely enclosed in the pack strap. Backcountry Access Stash packs are a example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T00:49:45.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24883" CreationDate="2014-09-25T01:23:56.597" Score="3" ViewCount="653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 1980s Panasonic (steel) road bike without eyelets for a rack or fenders, and I'd like to add a rack. The seat stays and chain stays on this bike are a bit thinner than I'd be comfortable to use P-Clamps on (and I'd rather not use them for all of the mounting points of the rack). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There exist racks which are somewhat designed to alleviate this, such as the Axiom Streamliner line shown below: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2bUrs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;streamliner&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one mounts to the caliper bridge and can use a quick release on the bottom. However, since my bike has horizontal dropouts, I am not sure if there is anything else I need to be aware of for using a quick release mounted rack. Typically the rack will be loaded with 5-20 kg. The skewer is an old Shimano one, probably the original one which came with the 105 hubs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T20:13:22.130" Title="Quick Release Rack with Horizontal Dropouts" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-25T07:26:35.453" Score="-1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/archive/2010/rockhoppersl/rockhoppersl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Rockhopper SL&lt;/a&gt;. It currently has the Rock Shox Dart 3 front shocks and the Shimano HG-50 chain/crank set. I want to upgrade it cause when I hit that top gear and I'm going all out with more to give, it seems like the bike has no more room for me to give it. I am currently doing things like the local Tour de Cure 100 mile bike rides. But I want to keep the bike and use it. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13882" LastEditorUserId="10856" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T21:06:00.090" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T23:33:00.570" Title="Looking for advice on upgrading" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24857" CreationDate="2014-09-25T14:00:55.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much all you can do to a mountain bike to make it better on road rides is fit slick tires, put the smallest cassette you can find which works for hills, fit a rigid fork if you're not taking it off road or lock out your suspension if you can. You can't put a road crankset (which requires road front derailleur to accomodate the larger chainrings) on most mountain bike frames since they won't have the clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new set of slick tires and the smallest cassette you can find will likely run you on the order of 100 bucks. A bit more money and you can get a used road bike which will work a lot better for road riding. The smallest cassette probably also won't gain you much either, and if you want to go mountain biking without a second set of wheels (which would almost definitely bring you into used road bike territory in pricing) you'd be swapping your slicks for knobbies which is somewhat annoying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T14:00:55.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-25T14:30:51.880" Score="0" ViewCount="1035" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up a set of Avid DB1's and put them on my bike, but it was a bear to get them on. For background, they've got a split clamp that is similar to a seat tube where simple compression keeps it in place versus a two-piece clamp that requires more than one screw to tighten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I found was that the clamp, even when loosened all the way, would not slide down the handlebar and I had to shimmy it back and forth to move them further in, which ended up scratching and removing a large amount of paint (it's ok, that part goes under the grips). But this doesn't seem right to me. Is there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a better way to install them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different handlebar diameters that would complicate installation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something else I totally missed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T16:01:27.687" Title="How to install brakes with clamps that are too tight" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24861" CreationDate="2014-09-25T17:50:19.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A general procedure with too tight clamps: Put in the screw or a longer one of the same diameter from the opposite side. Fit a piece of (hard, like a small coin) metal into the slot. Tighten the screw carefully. It should open the clamp enough to fit it over the bar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastEditorUserId="10401" LastEditDate="2014-09-26T16:01:27.687" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T16:01:27.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24865" CreationDate="2014-09-25T18:27:43.863" Score="1" ViewCount="1995" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a pair of wheels for a MTB build project, but I am lost when I read the specifications for wheel sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am looking for is a pair of wheels with a 9mm rear axle diameter and a 15mm front axle diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how do I know if a pair with quick releases will fit when it says nothing about the axle diameter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example &quot;Available with 9mm or 15mm front axle&quot; so? What is the rear axle diameter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not asking what kind of wheelsmyou like or which you think I should and shouldn't buy. I need help understanding the specifications from the manufacures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13489" LastEditorUserId="13489" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T18:43:00.150" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T14:23:15.760" Title="how to translate MTB wheel specifications?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24864" CreationDate="2014-09-25T19:33:46.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rear wheels have never had 9mm axles, they have always been 10mm. For all but &quot;downhill&quot; MTB[2] and fatbikes[3], they are  either 135mm 10mm or the new 12mm 142mm maxle standard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/12x142-explained.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/12x142-explained.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it specifically states otherwise I would assume that the rear wheel of an MTB wheelset is a 135mm 10mm axle. Anything that &quot;looks&quot; like a standard QR should be 135mm 10mm. But the vendor should make that pretty obvious, and if they don't it should be easy to ask. Wheelsets are expensive, it should be simple to get the answer to what dimensions are used in the rear hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2]- Downhill MTB has a 150mm thru-axle standard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[3]- Fatbikes use asymmetric 135mm axles (hub shifted to the driveside, relative to the rim) 170mm symmetric axles and 190mm/197mm thru-axles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-09-26T14:23:15.760" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T14:23:15.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24864" CreationDate="2014-09-25T20:52:22.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a large number of standards when it comes to just axle diameter.&#xA;largest to smallest, with usual usage:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20mm - This is used as a front wheel downhill/freeride standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15mm - This is front wheel standard for XC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12mm - This is used in rear wheel thru axle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10mm - This is front or rear bolt-through standard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9mm - This is front or rear quick release standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This then gets even more confusing when you look at axle length. However for both of the standards you are after, unless the frame is very old, have standard axle lengths. If you are really worried about getting the right/wrong wheels, some hubs have interchangeable axles. For instance Hope Tech. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13890" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T20:52:22.753" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24857" CreationDate="2014-09-25T23:33:00.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already suggested - a road bike would be a better answer and chaining to slicks will help efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as cadence and getting more top speed / lower cadence, the MTB cluster you have will have a smallest cog of 11 teeth - you cannot go smaller (smaller on back is higher gear).  The only other option you have is to increase the chain ring size. MTB chain rings normally stop at 44. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what size can you go up to - you probably have a 42 at the moment - a 44 is only 5% larger (pedal 5% slower) but over 100 miles it could make a big difference. The clearance with the frame and the front derailleur might prevent such an increase. Going up a couple of teeth could be anything from straight forward chain-ring replacement to difficult and expensive to  impossible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go up a size, you will probably need a new chain, and possibly a new front derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people that complain about top end speed and want bigger gears are actually not pedalling fast enough for efficiency - more common on MTB's where the riding position and bike geometry is set up more around agility and control than efficiency. There are a few cyclists who can maintain 90+ cadence in top gear on a MTB over 100miles, but not many.  Unless you are maintaining a cadence over 80, I would recommend not changing the bike at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T23:33:00.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-26T08:25:09.960" Score="2" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recent years saw the introduction of hollow axles, as the pipe is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_moment_of_area&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stiffest&lt;/a&gt; construction for it's weight for loads expected on an axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now the industry is introducing the 12mm solid rear axle. Solid. Why solid? Why not standardize both axles to be 9, 15 and 20mm and be done with it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T16:19:42.657" Title="Why the solid 12mm rear axle?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24872" CreationDate="2014-09-26T08:35:08.653" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;This screw goes thru the frame (downtube) to hold two shimano 7speed (indexed) shifters.&#xA;Apparently, one of the bolts is screwed and needs to be replaced.&#xA;Problem is that the guy who owns the bike doesn't know where to search since we do not know the name for this weird mount, nor when it was produced or how to get one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought i might find help here?&#xA;Possibly an idea for how to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gATK2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;A friend of mine has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lathe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;lathe&lt;/a&gt; and will just make a new bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4333" LastEditorUserId="4333" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T08:54:50.020" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T08:54:50.020" Title="Unknown shifter mount" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24874" CreationDate="2014-09-26T09:45:40.127" Score="6" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;For riding on level surface one should strive for high cadence. However, what is the best solution when descending over rough terrain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one hand, because the legs are better suspension when the muscles are relaxed i.e. not pedaling, one could make a point for difficult gears. That way, with only a short 1/4 rotation of the pedals close to horizontal position, one can generate acceleration, then quickly return to horizontal position for the next obstacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, because easy gears make it possible to rapidly rotate the pedals backwards OR forwards, easy gears could be beneficial, providing move agility to avoiding pedal strike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some guidelines, wisdom or tips of thumb about downhill gearing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T16:29:16.230" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:38:06.680" Title="How to select gearing for descent?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24870" CreationDate="2014-09-26T10:46:21.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find what you're looking for under names like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/NOVA-LEVER-BOSS-KIT-FOR-AL-FRAME.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;downtube shifter lever boss kit&quot;.&lt;/a&gt;. You should be able to find something at a bike shop (especially one which works on older bikes) or a frame builder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/downtube_shifter_mount1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;clamp&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T10:46:21.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24876" CreationDate="2014-09-26T15:13:08.107" Score="5" ViewCount="5291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been touring with my Birdy folder, and people constantly ask me if it's hard work to tour on a folding bike. Compared to my normal sized bike (which has the same gearing, 8-speed internal hubs on both) I don't notice a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the same transmission, bike weight and riding position between a full size and folding bike, are folders less efficient? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13894" LastEditorUserId="13894" LastEditDate="2014-09-27T08:17:19.973" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T18:49:17.033" Title="Are folding bikes less efficient than full sized bikes?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24871" CreationDate="2014-09-26T15:41:36.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If You are DH racing, then we are talking about racetracks and trails that are known to the rider, assuming that the rider is practicing and getting used to the track, picking best lines for each section and generally speaking, creating/refining a race strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that context, a gear is to be selected according to the particular needs of each section, taking into account:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The entry speed for the specific rider on the section. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The needed exit speed for the section. (Next section's required entry speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Length of the section.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roughness and slope of the section's terrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;tiredness&quot; level of the rider upon arrival to the section.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's elaborate a little:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Entry and exit speed define whether you need to accelerate, sustain speed or decelerate. With that in mind, To accelerate you need a gear that gives a slightly slower than ideal cadence, because when pedalling the ideal cadence would be reached and then surpassed. This assumes only one gear is needed for the section. If more gears are needed, then the shift should be made as soon as the cadence is felt to be over the ideal. (The purpose is to be near ideal cadence as long as possible.) If speed is to be sustained, then select the gear for the rider's ideal cadence at entry speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Length of the section dictates if pedalling is even possible or if it means pedalling so long that XC pedalling technique is better suited. It also influences the number of gears needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughness also defined by whether it is possible to pedal or if it's better to focus on guiding the bike. Generally, the rougher the terrain the lower the gear. &quot;Long&quot; gears are better suited for smooth sections. The slope ash an obvious role: the steeper (downwards) the slope, the higher the gear, the steeper (upwards) the lower the gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughness and Length of the section together may also define if a &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Pumping&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Milking the terrain&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; technique is better suited for speed gain/sustain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pumping is pushing down the bike over small descents in the terrain and pulling up in the small ascents. If the sections has many of these ups and downs, then you &quot;pump&quot; the bike up and down as you pass over the undulating terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Milking the terrain is a more broad term that implies taking advantage of terrain irregularities to gain speed. For example, instead of rolling over a rock, use a previous rock to jump and land on the &quot;descent&quot; part of the next. The energy from the landing combined with the slope will push the bike forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know for sure that you can search videos for &quot;pumptrack&quot; and you'll find deeper explanations on these techniques).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the tiredness of the rider while arriving to the section play a major role on gear selection, even if overlooked. A DH race strategy has to deal with rider's energy dosage. Sometimes it is better to &quot;rest&quot; on a smooth section, to have arms and legs ready for an oncoming rougher section. Also, for some riders it is true that they pedal better on high gears when tired and better on lower gears, high cadence when fresh, for others, it may be the opposite, so, it is not the same if the &quot;flat&quot; section is at the beginning or at the end of the racetrack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my particular case, I tend to begin on a mid range gear, to accelerate faster on the race start, and sometimes keep a rather low gear because it is more likely that the pedalling section will have a slow entry speed. As I go trough these sections I progressively shift to higher gears and let it stay there, because I happen to pedal better on higher gears when I'm tired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, each trail or racetrack is different, so when I'm practicing, I note the gears I use, and try to decide whether each particular section is doable on a different gear. If I do my homework correctly, the race day I have cleared which gear should I use for each section. I do not memorize gear numbers, instead I recall what gear I decided was better for start and memorize the parts of the track where I have to upshift or downshift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost forgot! &lt;strong&gt;Type of pedals may play a role too&lt;/strong&gt;: I started to race DH on a XC bike with cleated pedals, I had been using them for XC for years, but when I got my DH bike, It had Platform Pedals. After some doubt and several races, I installed cleats on that DH bike and my times got a lot better in part because they allowed me to pedal faster (higher cadence) than the platform  ones. Also allowed me to pedal on rougher terrain and generally allowed for better bike control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:38:06.680" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:38:06.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24873" CreationDate="2014-09-26T15:52:04.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The factors that affect bike efficiency are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weight&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical power train Losses&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aerodynamic Drag&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rolling resistance&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a touring bike, the difference between a folding and regular bike are all lost in the noise. Smaller wheels tend to have higher rolling resistance and the bike might be a bit heavier, but for touring it just doesn't matter that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think what is happening is that people remember the terrible heavy small wheeled bikes they had as kids. ( Why we give 50lb people 30lb bikes is a mystery..) They associate the relative amount of work those bikes required with your &quot;small&quot; wheeled bike. And yes, if a folding bike was 50% or more of your body weight it would be a lot harder to tour with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-09-26T17:28:11.823" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T17:28:11.823" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24873" CreationDate="2014-09-26T16:05:59.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But you don't have the same transmission as the wheels are part of the transmission.  Smaller wheels are not as efficient - more rolling resistance.  You also need to send more chain which is not as efficient.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't have the same position and lack multiple positions offered by drop bars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame is not as rigid and absorbs pedal energy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end if you don't notice a difference and like riding the bike then that is all that matters.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some comments on rigid. &#xA;A compact frame is not going to be as stiff as full size frame. &#xA;A hinge is not going to be as stiff as a solid tube or welded joint. &#xA;Birdy does some cool stuff to retain side to side rigidity in the way it folds on its own plane but it is still a small hinged frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said touring.  The second picture is a touring bike that is about the same price. &#xA;I am not associated with Salsa other than I own one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That single single top bar is going to have more side to side flex and and twist than a large triangle.  With the taller handle bar stem and seat post there are also a longer levers to exert flex. That flex is not recovered as pedal energy - at the bottom of the stroke the flex comes out and it does not go back into the chain.  The rear triangle is clearly going to be more rigid than a single hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Birdy is cool bike.  I am not putting it down.  You asked if a folder was as efficient.   A strong rider on a Birdy could hold with me on my Vaya but I am in my 50s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kqfim.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFMfb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-27T18:49:17.033" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T18:49:17.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2014-09-26T16:19:08.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon's article is quite detailed, but I'd like to chip in one circumstance where the use of the front brake is not such a good idea.&#xA;I found myself in a situation where I had to cycle with a headset that was less than perfectly tight. This took some time to fix due to a seized locknut on a threaded headset.&#xA;If there is play in the headset bearings, use of the front brake can cause dangerously unpredictable handling in an emergency situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13892" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T16:19:08.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24847" CreationDate="2014-09-26T16:36:02.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the rim has been bent significantly for a long-ish period I would advise getting a new rim and spokes. An Al rim should not be too expensive, and you should be able to re-use some of the spokes. As @Gary-Ray mentioned - you are probably better off taking it to a bike shop, esp if spokes are rusted, bent and/or broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6141" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T16:36:02.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18311" CreationDate="2014-09-26T17:03:31.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how many times this has happened, it could be a couple of different things.  One possibility is that the clamp on the derailleur is loose and allowing the cable to lose tension over time and stop shifting properly.  Another is that if at some point the LBS replaced the cable and adjusted it properly, the cable will naturally stretch, also causing it to lose tension and stop shifting properly.  However, the break in period for new cables is usually relatively short and they should stop stretching and stay adjusted.  This all goes out the window if the LBS has replaced the cable multiple times, however.  You end up replaying the break in period and associated period of a stretched cable and no adjustment.  There is also the smaller possibility that you have both going on, however, I'd hope the LBS had checked the cable clamp on your first visit.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try politely asking for clarification from the shop what they have done.  Shift cables are very inexpensive (for a shop) and I know several mechanics who will replace ANY less expensive shift cable out of hand to rule that out as a problem.  Many shops will attach old/replaced parts to a repair bike so when you pick it up, you know what has been done/replaced.  If you are just dropping it off and saying it doesn't shift right, different mechanics (or even the same mechanic who doesn't remember) may be replacing the cable and you may be replaying the break in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T17:03:31.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21867" CreationDate="2014-09-26T17:20:51.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your brakes and their design, you may not want the rotor centered.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both pads move when the lever is squeezed, then center position is correct.  However, if you have one fixed pad and one pad that moves you want the rotor to be as close as possible to the fixed pad (without touching/rubbing) so that it bends the least when the one moving piston is engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most brake manufacturers design their brake calipers with slotted grooves so that the brake unit can be adjusted.  Some Magura breaks are an exception to this and require you to adjust the rotor with spacers.  However, for most disc brakes, if you have the proper adapter and true rotor, these slots should be all you need to adjust the unit properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T17:20:51.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21086" CreationDate="2014-09-26T19:11:45.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will interject that there is a whole discipline/style of riding called &quot;trials&quot; and they have bikes that are tuned/designed for &quot;stunts&quot;.  They share more in common with BMX style bikes probably than anything else.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really it depends on what your definition of stunts is.  Any number of flatland, freestyle, freeride, slopestyle, dirt jump or trials bikes could be applicable.  I would recommend visiting your LBS and having a in depth conversation with someone knowledgeable to find out what kind of riding you are planning to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T19:11:45.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24855" CreationDate="2014-09-26T20:13:22.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will likely work fine and you wouldn't need additional hardware so long as your skewer has enough extra space to accommodate the extra width of those mount plates and still secure snugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as what you need to be aware of, I'd be conscious of how often you remove your rear wheel.  If you do so with any frequency, this could be a nightmare.  I have a axle mounted trailer hitch mount that I recently had to deal with whilest changing a flat.  Even without the trailer attached it added a level of complexity I didn't want to deal with while being screamed at by toddler fury and being soaked by rain.  Trying to hold a rack in place and get a skewer through in similar circumstances would have been even more unpleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T20:13:22.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14740" CreationDate="2014-09-26T20:44:32.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the bladder as close to your skin as possible.  This will help it utilize the same heat and insulation you are using.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run the tube under your shoulder.  The area over your shoulder is more exposed to wind and will generally freeze faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After taking a drink, blow back into the tube to clear it.  If there is no water in the tube, there is nothing to freeze.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Optional) Insulation.  Many companies make neoprene or other styles of insulated covers for their drinking tubes.  While these can help maintain some warmth, they can also make finding and breaking up ice chunks difficult.  You don't need to completely clear a tube to drink from it.  You just need to break the ice up some so the warmer water (from your back) can run through it and accelerate the thaw process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Optional) Power.  There is at least one company that makes an on demand heating system|water bladder.  It uses a battery pack and heating element throughout the whole tube to melt the tube even if it is completely frozen.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T00:09:22.963" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T00:09:22.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24645" CreationDate="2014-09-26T21:13:32.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in interior Alaska, we use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Multi-Purpose-Greases/MAG-00-and-MAG-1.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mag1 Lubriplate&lt;/a&gt;.  It's been in heavy use here for years and is time proven answer to the suggestions of many companies that haven't worked.  I run it in my headsets, my pedals, my hubs, freehubs and bottom bracket.  At -40F every little bit helps.  It also regularly reaches 80F here in the summer and I've never seen any issues with running it then as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to what you may hear, grease &quot;just getting thick&quot; when it gets cold is a major problem.  While your hubs and bottom bracket just roll slower, not being able to steer is a major problem.  Also expensive is partial engagement of your freehub body.  When your freehub partially engages you can chip, damage or destroy the freehub body, essentially ruining your entire wheel.  No engagement, while safe for your equipment, is dangerous for you.  I have seen numerous cyclists push out into an intersection only to pedal forward and get no resistance, then fall down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-09-26T21:26:53.093" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T21:26:53.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2014-09-26T23:50:44.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many strong opinions about braking front or rear I see! Well, I almost always use my rear brake to start off. I was taught, way back when, that to use the front brake first, particularly if I had to slam them on, would send me over my handlebars. Whether that's true or not, after many years and thousands of miles, I'm still doing it that way. So, I start with my rear, and as I close in on the stop, I'll ease onto my front brake. So far so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T23:50:44.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24574" CreationDate="2014-09-27T00:46:22.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that making sure the wheels are pre-stressed should be a standard part of a bike shop's prep of a bike. If you know that your customers are going to come back with wheel that are out of true, why not get it right before the bike goes out the door?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13590" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T00:46:22.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24899" CreationDate="2014-09-27T05:28:19.523" Score="3" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;Particularly with reference to hired tandems, or when you're first setting one up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of context:&#xA;I hired a tandem today and went for a ride with my wife. I've been riding for about 20 years, she rides very occasionally (once every couple of years). She's 30cm shorter than me, so she goes on the back and I go on the front - which means it's a bit harder for her to diagnose what's going wrong with the bike as she's unfamiliar both with the components she's looking at, and knowing what 'correct' feels like).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tandem we hired was a bit of a tank: an old hack that gets ridden up and down a path in a park a few times every week, the gear shifters didn't work (and the indicators were completely worn off the shifters), brakes didn't do much apart from suggest the bike might slow down at some point in the future, usual sort of decrepitude, but as we were only going on a very flat bit of tarmac, none of that was a big issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we were pedalling, there often seemed to be changes in how much feedback and force my wife was getting/putting through the pedals - sometimes it would feel that she was pushing much too hard on the pedals, and at other times she felt that I was upping the cadence without warning - which I don't think I was. Could this be caused by the chain betwee the front and rear cranks being misadjusted - and if so, what can I do to check that before riding the bike away from the hire shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13197" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T09:38:11.583" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T09:38:11.583" Title="What should I check with set up of a tandem?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24891" CreationDate="2014-09-27T11:29:13.617" Score="3" ViewCount="1222" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bicycle is Merida Crossway MD 40. It uses Shimano Altus derailleurs. The front cassette looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ITgT1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the central circular element, that must be holding the whole construction. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRUMf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What instrument should I buy to disassemble the front cassette from the bicycle? Does &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/BBB-Lockout-Cassette-Lockring-Remover-Tool-BTL12-Bicycle-Bike-Cycle-Campagnolo-/141395671116?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_BikeLocks_SR&amp;amp;hash=item20ebd6b84c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this ebay item&lt;/a&gt; fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DB6gi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13656" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T16:39:13.657" Title="Choosing a tool to take off the front cassette" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24889" CreationDate="2014-09-27T12:12:46.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Front chainrings are not called cassette. They are reffered to as chainrings and cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a hex key and a special too called crank extractor (or crank puller).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your posted eBay tool is suitable for &quot;real&quot; cassette only. You may need also a tool called chain whip for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="421" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T12:12:46.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24889" CreationDate="2014-09-27T12:15:26.240" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell whether your crank is a classical design or something new and weird.  For the classical design you use a &quot;crank puller&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rTup8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d5JrD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These look sort of like what you show, but you notice the &quot;barrel&quot; is threaded.  You remove the bolt holding the crank on (using a standard &quot;Allen&quot; hex wrench) and then thread in the outer barrel of the puller, into the female threads surrounding the bolt head.  Turning the arm (or using a wrench on the inner part) then &quot;pulls&quot; the crank off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cranks are &quot;self pulling&quot;.  You leave in place the dust cover over the bolt, insert an Allen wrench into the hole in the dust cover, then unscrew the bolt against the dust cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your crank is not the &quot;classical&quot; style then you will need whatever specific tools the manufacturer calls for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the crank is off, of course, you may want to remove the &quot;bottom bracket&quot; cartridge.  There are about 6 different wrenches for this, for different styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool has an excellent web site&lt;/a&gt; with instructions on how to do all this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T12:15:26.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24892" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-27T14:06:42.650" Score="3" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;i recently purchased a cheap fixie bike on ebay, brand new. it arrived today and looks great, but when i tried to attach the front wheel i realised that the right dropout is slightly (1mm) larger than the left dropout. also, the right dropout is slightly bent. this means that the wheel needs a lot of pressure to be put in to the dropouts. do you think this is a dealbreaker? should i send the bike back? or get a new fork? or is this normal with no-name bikes? am i compromising the structural integrity if the bike if i ride it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this bike for £130, and I think return postage would be around £30. The link to the eBay auction that I got the bike from is here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fixed-Gear-Road-bikes-700C-Brand-name-Green-WAY-London-/111469878644?pt=UK_Bikes_GL&amp;amp;hash=item19f41f5d74&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fixed-Gear-Road-bikes-700C-Brand-name-Green-WAY-London-/111469878644?pt=UK_Bikes_GL&amp;amp;hash=item19f41f5d74&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I have attached some photos to help illustrate the issue I'm having... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qV73d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bent dropout&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lN61a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;it needs a good push to be put on&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13899" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-09-27T17:08:26.580" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T13:23:32.480" Title="brand new fixie, different sized dropouts - send back?" Tags="&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24892" CreationDate="2014-09-27T14:15:24.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends how cheap it is and how much it bothers you. On principle I'd return it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T14:15:24.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24889" CreationDate="2014-09-27T14:19:57.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you only need to remove the chain ring then a simple Allen wrench&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They are typically 5 mm  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hex_key&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hex key&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they spin then use a flat head screw driver on the the other end but they typically do not spin.  There are also chain ring wrenches for the other side if a flat head screw driver does not work.  And can use a 10 mm wench on other side but too much to describe - look it up on youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful as most likely it will have spacers you need to save and put back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And align the nub on chain-ring with the crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque it back down in a cross pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-27T15:17:06.240" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T15:17:06.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-27T14:34:11.820" Score="1" ViewCount="1649" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently building a new mountain bike and for the time being I'm using the old forks until I buy some new ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how do I find out what type of headset I need? Because from my understanding there are quite a few different types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I have uploaded a couple of images. It looks to be integrated, as there are bearings/cups already in the frame and threadless. The steerer/stem width is 1 1/8th.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that solves my question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cCIeJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfEKi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5TmhZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13901" LastEditorUserId="13901" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T05:55:01.040" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T05:55:01.040" Title="SR Suntour XCM v3 forks Headset" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24889" CreationDate="2014-09-27T16:39:13.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the website for your bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://2014.merida-bikes.com/en_int/bikes/cross/cross/2014/crossway-40-md-390.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://2014.merida-bikes.com/en_int/bikes/cross/cross/2014/crossway-40-md-390.html&lt;/a&gt;), you have an SR Suntour XCM crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The documentation for that crankset (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/bike/chainwheels/XCM-XCM-T428-SQ-OCTA-4212.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/bike/chainwheels/XCM-XCM-T428-SQ-OCTA-4212.html&lt;/a&gt;) indicates it's compatible with this bottom bracket (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-Octalink-BB-ES25&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-Octalink-BB-ES25&lt;/a&gt;) which is an octalink design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article from Park Tool (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-removal-installation-isis-drive-or-octalink&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-removal-installation-isis-drive-or-octalink&lt;/a&gt;) explains the removal of octalink cranksets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T16:39:13.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24888" CreationDate="2014-09-27T20:18:37.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2161/pre-ride-checks&quot;&gt;pre-ride checks covered here&lt;/a&gt;, I suggest you check that:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/synchain.html#adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sync (timing) chain&lt;/a&gt; between the front and back pedals is not too slack. You can expect it to move a centimetre or two closer when pinched, but visible droop is bad news and might be causing feelings of sudden changes of cadence.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/synchain.html#phase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pedals are in phase&lt;/a&gt;. That is, the right pedal on the front is at the top when the right pedal on the rear is also at the top. Some tandem teams prefer to be out of phase, but in phase is standard and easiest for a beginner. I would expect all hired tandems to be in-phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tires are suitable. As tandem tires carry more weight, it is worth having &lt;a href=&quot;http://tandemgeek.wordpress.com/2010/11/07/tandem-tires-is-bigger-better/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wider, tougher tires&lt;/a&gt;. On a road tandem I would say 28mm is a minimum. My wife and I use Schwalbe Marathon Plus 35mm (1.35&quot;) and we aren't heavy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tires are at high enough pressure. As above, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/4429/5337&quot;&gt;right pressure depends on tire width and rider weight&lt;/a&gt;, so is generally higher for a tandem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_i-k.html#keel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;keel tube&lt;/a&gt;/chainring damage. The bottom horizontal tube between the two bottom brackets can sometimes hit the ground if ridden over bumpy surfaces due to the long wheelbase of a tandem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T20:18:37.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24895" CreationDate="2014-09-27T22:13:23.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few factors to choosing a headset, primarily frame related:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the frame require a threaded (1&quot;) or threadless head set?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the headtube/ steerer type (1.5 straight, tapered, 1 1/8 straight)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the headset integrated (cups sit within the frame)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deciding if a fork will fit is a bit easier, is the steerer the correct length (it can be longer, you can use spacers above or below the stem for fit) and is it compatible? You can get headsets that interface some head tubes to steerer they are tapered steerer in 1.5 head tube or 1 1/8 steerer in tapered head tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly identify what headset you need first and work from there. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cane Creeks&lt;/a&gt; headset finder is a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-09-27T22:49:17.017" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T22:49:17.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-28T02:55:49.943" Score="0" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;my gears are not shifting well. i can only shift from 1st to 2nd...i don't know what is the problem&#xA;i have shimano revoshift gear enter image description here&#xA;here are some images&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KSJq4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OoFqM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TeOY9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uqQvo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ctjZD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CD13S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iEuBi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRpsP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13910" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-09-28T07:48:58.777" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T23:04:39.330" Title="My Gears Are not Shifting Well" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-28T06:43:24.413" Score="0" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently building a new mountain bike. I'm fairly bike savvy and have built quite a few bikes over the years, but mainly road bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have installed/fitted a new Shimano slx group set and the hydraulic brake housing is very long. Lots of excess brake line around the handlebars, and when looking at other bikes in the shop they don't seem to have that problem. I'm fairly sure you can't shorten the housing, and not sure I want to have a crack at that if that is the case, so I wanted to see how other people get around this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13901" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T20:21:38.090" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T20:21:38.090" Title="Disc brake lines quite long" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;cable-routing&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-09-28T17:49:36.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24901" CreationDate="2014-09-28T14:51:06.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't get out of the lowest (easiest) gears then something is stopping the cable from releasing. There could be a number of reasons for this. The shifter on the handlebars might not be working properly, something may be caught on the cable and pulling it, the cable could be frayed and is snagging on something, or the rear dérailleur could be jammed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you should do some diagnostic tests: if you try to put it into highest (fastest) gear and the cable goes slack but the rear dérailleur doesn't move then it's not the shifter, so you can rule that out. If you undo the nut that holds on the cable to the dérailleur and the dérailleur moves, then it's the cable, and if it doesn't then it's the probably the dérailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastEditorUserId="896" LastEditDate="2014-09-28T23:04:39.330" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T23:04:39.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24938" CreationDate="2014-09-28T15:30:44.220" Score="13" ViewCount="6217" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 6 hr. ride, I will burn around 4,800 cals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I start the ride fully carb loaded with around 1,500 cals in me, that means I will have to consume an additional 3,300 cals over the 6 hours, or 550 cals/hr.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it at all realistic  to try and do this during the ride using real food ONLY  (whole grains, fruits, veggies), with NO sugar (ie. no gels, powders, or energy bars, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If sugar is a must, and there is no avoiding it, I would at least like to eat the maximum amount of real food, then supplement with sugar. So, what is the maximum cals/hr that the digestive system can metabolize into energy?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Please see my answer below. Thanks to everyone for the great points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13913" LastEditorUserId="13913" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T13:56:19.203" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:05:30.967" Title="Is it realistic to fuel a long ride with NO sugar?" Tags="&lt;nutrition&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24905" CreationDate="2014-09-28T15:54:03.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have riden 7 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ragbrai.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ragbrais&lt;/a&gt; and nener needed any sugar packets or candy bars. Assuming you have the time to stop and eat real foods and you have trained your body well you should have no problem. On Ragbrai we ride an average of 70 miles a day for 7 straight days. Longest day is a century. You do need to train to keep this up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I eat a full meal at least every 2 hours and you have to be comfortable riding right after eating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do eat sugary snacks- pie, root beer floats, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I start my ride eating a protien bar, stop for a full breakfast after 15 - 20 miles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Figure 2 full breakfasts, 2 lunches, and an afternoon meal with a few snacks along the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid foods that are hard to digest. The 2 lb pork shop might look good but your digestive system is not going to like it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T15:54:03.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24905" CreationDate="2014-09-28T17:14:34.707" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most sources I've read suggest that your body can process at most 300 calories per hour during exercise. And a lot of sources suggest that you only attempt to replace roughly 200 calories per hour at best. You should be able to do this easily without any simple sugars. Your initial budget is much much larger than 1500 calories, you don't need to do a one for one replacement. In endurance events&#xA;your primary energy source is body fat, not muscle glycogen. You've easily got&#xA;a 10K calorie reserve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a fair number of Road Centuries and 8 hr MTB races over the last 10 years and overeating is just as bad if not worse than undereating. There are some companies/groups ( Hammer Nutrition ) that recommend avoiding simple sugars altogether and only consuming complex carbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing that works for everybody and everything works for somebody. The only way to know is to try. One thing I've found that works really well for me is steamed mini potatoes with a little salt and olive oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eating and drinking a little bit as constantly as possible works the best. For a 6 hr ride, I'd focus more on proper hydration and a good balance of electrolytes. Unless you're at less than 5% body fat, you've got plenty of reserves for a long ride. What eating does is allow the body to use it's reserves[1]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting all this right is very tricky, most people err way too much on the side of over consumption. ( I know I've been guilty of this and it's led to some pretty terrible results. ). It's very easy to overthink and over plan all this, ( and there are certainly a lot of companies that will gladly take your money along the &#xA;way. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you eat or drink is generally far less important than that you eat and drink&#xA;something that agrees with you and that you like eating and drinking. You need water and electrolytes, enough calories to make them enjoyable is really all you need to worry about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]- This is just my own theory based on 35+ years of long days in the mountains, but often even just a tiny intake of food will yield a big jump in energy. I'm convinced the body &quot;hoards&quot; reserves until it detects an incoming supply of energy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T14:05:30.967" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:05:30.967" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24905" CreationDate="2014-09-28T17:43:58.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do you want to try and do this without sugar? Sugar isn't dangerous for you if your body is using the energy. I would also question the difference between getting sugar from fruit vs getting sugar from a protein bar.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want high calorie/sugar intake from fruit, try to look for fruits that are higher in sugar/calories such as mango.  You might want to try eating dried fruit as it's a lot easier to consume on a bike.  Raisins are high in calories and easy to find, but you should be able to find dried mango if you look around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T17:43:58.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24910" CreationDate="2014-09-28T20:00:19.007" Score="10" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this at work the other day and I was completely baffled. This bicycle has an additional, adjustable metal bar that runs parallel to the upper part of the frame, between the seat and the handlebar mounts. It looks like a finished product including labels and whatnot. I didn't see any damage to the frame that I could tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone identify this device and its function?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6GSGL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6GSGL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10366" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T03:34:18.623" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T03:34:18.623" Title="What is this metal bar parallel to the frame?" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24909" CreationDate="2014-09-28T20:19:39.243" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's used for attaching a child seat similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weeride.com/Kangaroo-Center-Mounted-Child-Bicycle-Carrier&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ng9mu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kangaroo seat&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above site shows a clearer image of the part in question which might be useful to future visitors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VaSc3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Child set mounting bar&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T16:38:21.913" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T16:38:21.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24905" CreationDate="2014-09-28T20:49:24.027" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention where you get your calories burn/hour rate, but 800 cal/hour is a very fast ride. 800 cal/hour would be around 220 watts, and that's a lot for 6 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are riding, some of your energy is coming from carbohydrate metabolism, and some is coming from fat metabolism. The ratio between the two depends upon how hard you are riding, your personal fitness level, what kind of training you have done, and your genetics. If you are riding at your limit, you are burning a lot of carbs, if you are just spinning along, you aren't burning that many. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 6-hour ride, a decent guess at your ratio is something like 75% fat / 25% carbs. You don't have to try to replace the fat when you ride since we all have stored fat, so you merely need to replace the carbs. If you were burning 800 cal/hour, that would mean that you would need to replace around 200 calories of carbs/hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need sugar to replace carbohydrates; any simple or complex carb will work, assuming that you tolerate it well. What somebody can tolerate depends a lot on their genetics and effort level; if you are riding hard, you might have to try a few things to find something that works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T20:49:24.027" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24909" CreationDate="2014-09-28T20:50:59.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like it might be a mount for a kid's bike seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T20:50:59.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24905" CreationDate="2014-09-28T21:07:51.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, eating any form of sugary food greatly increases the chances of a debilitating 'hunger knock' - all the more so if used to bridge times when your reserves are low. For me, sugar plays no part in any endurance diet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reward, however, is another matter. Where I used to take a couple of (say) mars bars on every road trip, nowadays I take only small amounts of dark, bitter chocolate. With that, peaks and troughs are ironed out, but I still have a something more or less special to look forward to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13916" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T21:07:51.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24892" CreationDate="2014-09-29T01:40:33.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the issue was just the 1mm difference in the dropout, I would personally just file it out and note it in the Ebay feedback.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this one bent, contact the seller and see if there is a replacement/return option.  Failing that you could try to get a shop to bend it back and bill the seller.  If the seller gives you a lot of grief then take it up with Ebay right away.  Whatever you do, be sure to reflect it in your ebay feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using a nutted axle, it shouldn't be a safety issue but may take more effort to get the wheel on/off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T01:40:33.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20934" CreationDate="2014-09-29T09:21:23.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A year ago I did some work investigating ANT+ and BLTE protocols during development of a mobile fitness application. The details are a bit fuzzy, but if I recall correctly, this cannot be a simple conduit that listens for ANT+ radio signals and translates to BLTE signals. The security, message structure, communication style, registration protocol, etc. are all different.  Such a device would most likely require some specific device to application translator, too (e.g. ANT+ power meter to BLTE readable by mobile app).  I think there may also be some intellectual property or licensing issues that could get in the way of a commercial product. I seem to recall the ANT+ people not being too happy about BLTE when I spoke with someone from their ORG at CES '13.  Sorry I'm unable to dig in deeper, but I think a number of technical and business factors stand in the way of a commercially available generic ANT/BLTE gateway device in the near future or perhaps never.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13921" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T09:21:23.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24905" CreationDate="2014-09-29T14:48:24.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should pick up a copy of Allen Lim's cook book &quot;The Feed Zone&quot; the introduction explains a fair amount about exercise physiology.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While on endurance pace rides don't eat anything for about the first 1.5 hours, this will train your body to efficiently burn fat.  As others have said your body is burning fat in an effort like this, get your body use to that and you'll be surprised how long you can ride without needing to eat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13925" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T14:48:24.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-29T20:32:02.763" Score="15" ViewCount="12834" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple weeks ago I rode around Crater Lake, a 35 mile ride with over 4500 feet of cumulative elevation gain &amp;ndash; the sort of ride you really want functional gears for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The night before my rear derailleur cable snapped while I was biking home from work. I was able to make it to the bike shop with minutes to spare before they closed, and bought a replacement cable. Everything worked fine on the ride, but it got me to wondering what I could do if my cable had snapped a bit later and broken mid-ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is universal, but on my bike and many I've seen, if the rear derailleur cable snaps, the rear gear will slip down to the smallest-diameter gear (i.e. the highest gear). This would make it almost impossible to climb significant hills and get home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any simple fix one can do in the field with just basic tools that would enable you to get home on a broken derailleur, specifically when there are significant climbs that can only be done in a lower gear? Is there some way to force the derailleur to a certain position that you would find most useful, and keep it from slipping down from there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastActivityDate="2020-08-03T17:46:20.277" Title="If a derailleur cable snaps on a long ride, how can I keep going?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24920" CreationDate="2014-09-29T20:55:11.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the method Pete suggests you don't pick a sprocket as you don't have a horizontal drop out. &#xA;Go small up font and a middle in the back for chain alignment and pick the best chain length. &#xA;From there you may need to go up or down one in the rear to get chain tension. &#xA;Is not going to be perfect. &#xA;But tension and alignment is more important than the exact gear you want.&#xA;You can always take out another length so in doubt go longer. &#xA;And you also lose your front derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible option if the cable has some length is to knot it around a bolt and bind it in one of the guides.  There you have derailleur as a guide and you still have the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done that ride.  That is an excellent ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK now that Pete posted (+1) I don't agree with his answer.  I go small upfront (or middle if 3) and the best alignment rear followed by best chain tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T21:29:46.343" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T21:29:46.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24920" CreationDate="2014-09-29T21:17:12.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They certainly are, and you have different alternatives depending on how much cable you where left with and the available tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the cable snaps towards the middle of a sleeve-less section (i.e. between cable stops in the frame) you may be able to tie a piece of wire. This will give you some shifting possibilities but don't expect full functionality, since the knots will not be solid as a single piece of cable, so stretching will occur and therefore you'll experiment a sort of &quot;ghost shifting&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to use the derailleur's limiting screws to hold it on a lower gear. Look your derailleur for a couple of bolt labelled H and L. The H limits the derailleur on the high gear side, preventing it from driving the chain into the frame when the shifter gives all the slack it can give to the cable. Screw that bolt all the way in (but don't make it tight). Depending on the particular derailleur and the length of the bolt you may gain 2 to 3 positions, whether this is suitable for you depends on he trail you want to traverse, your strength and the particular cogs and chainrings on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A third option, provided that you have a way for making a clean cut on the cable is to make a clean end for the piece of cable that comes from the shifter (the &quot;headed&quot; segment of cable) and remove it from the shifter. If your bike uses multiple sections of cable jacket, then use one that is not damaged and is slightly shorter than the piece of cable yo where left with. Remove the &quot;tail&quot; part of the cable from the derailleur. Now assemble the portion of cable that still has a head, the selected piece of  cable jacket into the derailleur in some sort of &quot;shifter less&quot; arrangement. That is, the cable head resting against the jacket end. While holding the derailleur manually in position for the gear you want to use, tighten the cable leaving no slack. Fine tune using the derailleur's adjustment barrel. This will leave you with only one useful gear. Tie the  remainder for the cable/jacket to the seatstay to keep it from getting tangled.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the snap happened to close to the head of the cable, then, make a knot on the cable instead. It will be kind of difficult but it is doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options 2 and 3 leave you with only one gear in the rear, but you should still be able to use the front gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However: Snapping a cable is very unlikely if the bike is properly maintained and good cable is installed. Even cheap cables are hard to break in normal usage. Always check your bike before taking any trip that will take you far from where you can get help (or a ride home), and perform with enough time to get any necessary spares. Cables and jackets, inner tubes and sim brake pads are cheap enough, so if in doubt, it is better to change them. Spokes can be cheap or very affordable too. If any part of the bike is not in a solid condition and cannot be replaced, it is better to postpone the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:36:21.273" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:36:21.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24920" CreationDate="2014-09-29T21:52:54.353" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Nothing is so broken you cannot make it worse&quot; - breaking a perfectly good chain in the field, miles from nowhere, with a light weight emergency tool, would be my very last resort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will only work if the broken end is not too frayed. Remove the cable completely from the outers and the shifter. Thread the cable though the barrel adjuster on the dérailleur so that shifter end of the cable is butted against the adjuster. Clamp the cable onto the dérailleur (as you normally do, just with a  very long tail) with the dérailleur in a compromise position (usually middle of cluster, but towards the big cogs if you have hills to climb, and little cogs if you have lots of flat ground.) Adjust dérailleur with the barrel till its sitting on the chosen cog.  Cable tie/tape the remainder of the cable safely out the way (this is really important.....) - its unlikely you have have anything capable of cutting the cable so do not try.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot thread the cable, you my get away using something else - a cable tie, a piece of string or binding wire may be able to be used - whatever comes to hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will leave you with a 2 or 3 speed bike using the front dérailleur - much better than single speeding it and a lot easier than breaking the chain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain breaking to make a single speed is still an option if these attempts fail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit : Feeling ingenious - if you are lucky and the cable and outers can be reconfigured......&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have a separate shifter, and the cable is broken close to the dérailleur, you could remove the shifter from the handle bars, and clamp/tape/cable tie it onto the seat post. Rearrange the cable outers, connect the cable back up to the dérailleur, giving you a full range of gears - although shifting won't be as easy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T02:51:09.020" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T02:51:09.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24926" CreationDate="2014-09-29T22:00:34.047" Score="0" ViewCount="1250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy going fast and my current bicycle tops too early, what kind of upgrades would I need to make to achieve a taller final gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13681" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T15:22:48.247" Title="What to upgrade to achieve a higher top speed?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24925" CreationDate="2014-09-29T22:40:57.053" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bigger tires, bigger chainrings and a smaller cassette all lead to a higher gearing (the crank arm lengths among other things also come into this, but that encapsulates into bike fit). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigger tires are subject to frame clearance and feeling squirmy possibly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bigger chain rings require front derailleur compatibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller cassette also requires appropriate derailleur capacities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other ways of getting more speed include improving your aerodynamics (part of your bike fit - if you have drops for example, you may not be using them effectively) and increasing your cadence (most of the time when people ask this, their cadence is too low and they should be riding in a lower gear or pedaling faster). Losing weight (bike and yourself) does help as well, to some extent. If you're spinning out on say a steep downhill incline, that's normal (chances are you shouldn't be going faster than that anyway). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that the type of bike you're riding is not a good fit for your riding style, i.e. you're using a mountain bike for road riding. Switching the type of bike (which does include corresponding gear and position changes) can help as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T22:40:57.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-30T00:38:58.880" Score="2" ViewCount="1124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode the Georgia 3 gap bike ride yesterday.  For me almost a lifetime accomplishment.  I used a Garmin 510 and when it reached 22% I plugged in an external charger.  The screen continued to indicate my ride.  However, when I finished and hit Save  there was no data preserved.  Is there any way to retrieve this data?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, Dave Holmes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13931" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T15:26:47.547" Title="Garmin 510 lost data" Tags="&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24920" CreationDate="2014-09-30T03:59:53.807" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the cable breaks at the shifter and you have externally-routed cables, here's what you do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand-shift the bike onto a big cog on the rear by pressing on the derailleur as you spin the pedals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tie the cable around the front cable stay on the downtube. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust as necessary to get the bike to hold a gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T03:59:53.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25121" CreationDate="2014-09-30T07:56:56.307" Score="2" ViewCount="3317" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I took my bike in to the repair shop, to have the &lt;em&gt;rear&lt;/em&gt; wheel replaced, but after the repair I noticed immediately the steering feeling a bit strange.&#xA;I've since worked out why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the front forks are somehow pulling the front wheel back to a straight position, each time the front wheel is turned slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see this most easily when picking the front wheel up off of the ground, and turning the front handlebars.&#xA;The handlebars basically 'snap' themselves back to the straight position, quite strongly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's not related to the wheel, or tyre, since this happens with the wheel completely lifted off the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's not related to the brake or gear cables either, since it does exactly the same thing with these cables pulled out of the way manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as far as I can work out, it must be due to something inside the actual tube of the front forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure it didn't do this before going in to the repair shop (or at least it didn't do this to any noticeable extent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, based on looking along the wheel, it really seems to centre front wheel quite accurately, and the centring forces seem quite evenly balanced and smooth on either side. So it kind of seems like something that would need to be set up by design (rather than something being randomly broken).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, this is definitely not something that is desirable for steering, as it makes it difficult for me to steer appropriately when going around bends (since the forks try to pull back to the straight position, which is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; what I want when turning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is: are front forks supposed to do this kind of 'automatic recentring' to some extent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm thinking perhaps that maybe it used to be much more subtle before going in to the repair shop, so maybe I didn't notice it, and it was ok for steering before, but it somehow got exaggerated.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, is there some way I'm supposed to be able to 'turn down' the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, i.e. if front forks are just not supposed to do this, why could this be happening now, and what should I do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13787" LastEditorUserId="19212" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T19:53:23.320" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T01:55:55.967" Title="Front fork pulling to center / &quot;indexed steering&quot;" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24929" CreationDate="2014-09-30T08:36:46.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a usual issue if the bearings in the steering tube are overtightened. Re-adjust the bearing (or take it back to the shop) and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3186" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T08:36:46.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23380" CreationDate="2014-09-30T09:38:33.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have enjoyed riding with a Cannondale Headshok (Silk Tour 700).  I agree with you, weight and stiffness are non-issues with HeadShok type suspension, I think they are fantastic for producing a comfortable aluminium tourer but I may be biased!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that people who have not riden this type of shock don't understand its advantages.  When it is locked off it has almost zero effect on the stiffness of the front fork, and it allows carrying a normal front rack.  When it's on, it takes out corregations on rough roads and makes it possible to ride firetrails that are very rough while keeping the wheel in better contact.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last trek I did with this bike was over 2000km and I tried to stay off road as much as possible, carrying up to 35kg of gear.&#xA;These bikes are amazing and handle beautifully even fully loaded at speed (got up to 93km/h on one section!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the reason why touring shocks are not more widespread is that normal suspension forks are useless on a touring bike (they are heavier than the headshok, harder to lock out and reduce stiffness).  As far as a I can tell, the HeadShok patent is still valid and very expensive to licence, so it's probably prohibitive for other manufacturers (although you're right that these bikes are not cheap anyway!).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still looking for a Cannondale Touring Rohloff to eventually replace my Silk Tour 700, but they're seriously hard to find.  Also, I notice that Koga has a similar shock,  the Koga Feather Shock, for their high end tourers (look under front fork options at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koga-signature.com/Build-Your-Own-Bike.aspx?language=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.koga-signature.com/Build-Your-Own-Bike.aspx?language=en&lt;/a&gt;).  It's only got 35mm of travel (I think the newer Cannondale tourers have 50mm) and you can only fit 37mm tyres (my HeadShok fits 42mm+ comfortably).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13932" LastEditorUserId="13932" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T10:04:18.633" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T10:04:18.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-30T10:15:40.580" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found some manufacturers have front-only or rear-only tire models. What is the actual difference between front and rear tires? Why specific tire supposed to be used only on front/rear wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very good answer to my question can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/21613/4114&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/21613/4114&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4114" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T10:56:01.663" Title="Difference between front and rear tires" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-09-30T12:27:07.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24936" CreationDate="2014-09-30T11:02:31.100" Score="8" ViewCount="2248" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy the same bike at different stores (see for example the Schwinn Discover, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0030U8SU6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sears.com/schwinn-discovery-700c-mens-bicycle/p-00634481000P&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wayfair.com/Schwinn-Cross-Commuter-Discover-Bike-in-Black-S5396-YZ1188.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). Does the place where you buy the bike from matter in terms of what parts they put on it? Or is the only difference in the assembly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13933" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T15:19:46.440" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T18:41:06.200" Title="Does it matter where you buy the bike?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24933" CreationDate="2014-09-30T12:08:11.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a bicycle the store is the final point of assembly.  The bicycle arrives in a box unassembled.  So yes it makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parts are in the box so unless you swap out some part you will get the same parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a high end bike at a general sports store where they also sold ski and camping equipment. It took me hours to get that bike running correctly. They just put the parts together and did not tune it up. I knew what I was getting but the price was right.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A high end store will even do stuff like put the wheels on the stand to verify they are true. Back before pre-stretched cables they would stretch the cables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On mail order you will typically get what is call pre-assembled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading your question again.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the place where you buy the bike from matter in terms of what&#xA;  parts they put on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike from a manufacturer will (typically) have a build kit and seller should not deviate from that.  If they are subbing parts then that is just plain wrong.  But what you might get is a prior year that did not have as good of components.  Or before a frame construction improvement.  Or a model number / name that is downgraded components that you might not have picked up on.  On the Internet you will see these moved at good prices.  You just need to ask the right questions.  A LBS is more likely to be up front with this is a last years model.  You should look for posted build kit and if it says component may be subbed then ask them straight up what components are on the bike you are selling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your three links are all shipping.  I would go Amazon just because I know they have an excellent return policy.  That is a lower end bike and is going to have lower end parts.  None of those links even state a specific build kit.  If it just says Shimano you need to be prepared for the cheapest Shimano.  I would check for sales at you LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T18:50:31.567" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T18:50:31.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24933" CreationDate="2014-09-30T12:33:37.650" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It matters in many ways where you buy the bike from. If you're buying online, then the parts will most likely be the same, although you should be careful to read the specs.  Some online (brick and mortar as well) shops will have overstock bikes from previous years and the parts will be different from the current model year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you buy from a local bike store, then it starts to make more of a difference where you shop. Many shops will offer free tune-ups for a year or two, and some others will offer free tune-ups for life.  What's included in a &quot;tune-up&quot; can vary from store to store.  Some shops will include a free fitting of the bike to make sure it's properly set up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every actual bike shop, and dedicated sporting goods store that I have been to has, at the minimum, given the bike a the bike a safety check before they actually hand it over to you. I even got this once for a coaster bike (the kind with no pedals/drivetrain) when I bought one for my 3 year old.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is to ensure that the bike is in safe operating condition and to ensure that things are working well.  Problems can arise between the initial assembly and when you purchase the bike and they want to ensure that you will be safe and have a good experience.  Stuff like this often isn't done at places like Walmart or Amazon. Often they will assemble the bike and not even give it a test ride to ensure things are actually working properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T12:33:37.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24933" CreationDate="2014-09-30T12:34:30.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference is the support you get afterwards. If you buy a decent (non-BSO) bike online, you're generally on your own for support unless you take it to a bike shop and shell out some money. They often won't let you swap out the bike with another size if it doesn't fit you properly either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you go to your local bike shop, many of them will do adjustments on the bike for free for a while, and if it doesn't fit, they can help swap out the model for you for something that does fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point is the assembly - not everyone is as careful as everyone else when they put together a bike, which is why even the BSO's at Walmart typically don't operate as well as they should when you get them from the store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes there are different trim levels of a bike with different parts, but are usually clearly demarcated on decent quality bikes. Generally, for the same trim level, the parts will be the same as they're spec'd that way from the manufacturer. (An exception being things bought from some online retailers like BikesDirect, which does substitute similar parts on a given model possibly from different manufacturers). On BSO's, this is not necessarily the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the bike is really a high end BSO, so you may get some slight variations between dealers, but they should all be essentially equivalent parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T12:34:30.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24905" CreationDate="2014-09-30T13:55:06.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m the poster of the original question. I thought several of the answers below made good points, especially @Fred the Magic Wonderdog and @Eric Gunnerson. But none quite put it all together the way I would have liked. However, by pulling together and organizing the many good points made by different people,  I’ve come up with the following answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unlike in a race where you are burning almost exclusively carbs, on a long distance ride you are burning a combination of body fat and carbs. The body fat is unlimited, so you only have to replace the carbs portion. The proportion of body fat burned, depends on how hard you are pushing yourself. Pushing less hard means more body fat and less carbs are being burned, pushing harder means less body fat and more carbs are burned.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your pace is such that you can carry on a conversation, you are burning 75% of your calories from body fat. You don’t have to replace that. The remaining 25% of calories is from carbs which you do have to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your pace is faster, so you find it difficult to carry on a conversation, you are burning 50% of your calories from body fat, with the remaining 50% of calories coming from carbs. You only have to replace the carbs portion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When I ride I generally find it difficult to talk, so I guess I should be replacing 50% of calories burned. In my case, that’s 400 cals/hr.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;However, since the body can only digest maximum 300 cals/hr, there will be a deficit of 100 cals/hr.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This deficit will draw on the carb reserve of 1,500 cals which you should be coming into the ride with.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You should be carb loading the night before and the morning of the race, so you come into the race with this reserve. The carb reserve is essential for making up the difference in the burned carbs you need to replace and the maximum 300 cals/hr limit your digestive system can process.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At a deficit of 100 cals/hr, your carb reserve should more than cover a 6 hour ride. In fact, in theory, your reserve should allow you to ride this pace for 15 hours without a break (an unlikely scenario for anyone)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the answer to the original question is, yes, it is realistic to fuel a long ride with NO sugar. Thanks everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13913" LastEditorUserId="13913" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T14:01:41.367" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T14:01:41.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15057" CreationDate="2014-09-30T14:08:36.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the uphills, Ken can push Barbie with his hand on her back, while Barbie freewheels, or pedals lightly. Ken gets a good work out, Barbie has an enjoyable ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This happens often on our club rides.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6075" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T14:08:36.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24933" CreationDate="2014-09-30T15:16:48.863" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;way back in the 70's I bought my first bike at a 'bike store' and thought having to lean to a side was the norm.  Years later, having much more experience, I found out the frame was misaligned.  What got me is this store which was supposed to be catering to bike enthusiasts would put out something like that and sell it at a premium price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a frame is misaligned there isn't much you can do.  Any experienced shop owner would reject it instead of trying to sell it to an unsuspecting customer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I modified the bike by gearing it up to 15 speed from 10 speed. but not in the way most people do.  whereas most gear down to make it easier on hills, I went the other way and got a bigger sprocket on the front.  I also moved the shift levers to the handle bars (shimano).  I know people say they are slow but I like the comfort.  Switched to cloth wrapped handlebars as well.  stripped all unnecessary other stuff off the bike, but it was a circa '76 bike and weighed in around 30 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did ride the bike on several century races for fun and experience but always had to sit to the side in the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13938" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T15:16:48.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3049" CreationDate="2014-09-30T16:49:24.190" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been racing mountain bikes since the mid 90's and later playing around with BMX. If you ride enough bikes, you will notice the frame geometry can make a huge difference on how it performs off road. For a while many mountain bike companies were attempting to do a seatstay that curved around the wheel (S shaped) with a shorter chainstay..this brought the back wheel closer to being under the seating position, often by 2-3 inches. What effect it had was it was easy to wheelie the bike, or climb a hill..it was terrible when it came to riding flat on a street, as the bike was jumpy, and the front end always wanted to pull up, especially with a suspension fork every time you hit a bump. I recently rode a poorly designed Trek (A company known for selling bikes more for components and less for geometry) and the head tube angle was too shallow with little trail..and it was one of the most unstable bikes I have ever ridden. At slow speeds the bike wobbled, and for a Cross Country Hard Tail..this is a terrible characteristic (especially in the $1200+ price range). I later bought a Kona and it has a rather long trail with the fork brought forward by about an inch from the headtube that made it very stable. It has a very slanted top tube, that makes it much easier to maneuver and shift your weight without hitting the frame..something you want on a mountain bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13939" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T16:49:24.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24675" CreationDate="2014-09-30T18:08:35.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen this done and mostly work out ok, but I still wouldn't recommend it for the commented reasons.  If do want to attempt to reuse the spokes, you'll need to buy a hub with as close to the same flange size as possible.  If you go with a wider flange, you'll end up with spokes poking through your rim that you'll need to cut and possibly rethread.  If you go with a smaller flanged hub, the spokes may not be long enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spokes are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeschool.com/tools/spoke-length-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; to a question involving the effective rim diameter, flange width, pattern and a few other variables.  If you change any of those variables, the answer will be different and you'll need different spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T18:08:35.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24920" CreationDate="2014-09-30T19:33:56.287" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke a front derailleur cable at the top of a long climb once, leaving my chain stuck around the little crank for the descent.  Luckily, I was able to find a small, flat-ish rock on the side of the road that I could wedge between my frame and derailleur in order to hold the chain up on the big crank.  The rock shook free once or twice on the way down the hill, and I had to stop and find a new one, but I was able to get home without totally spinning out my legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4784" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T19:33:56.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24947" CreationDate="2014-09-30T21:40:20.027" Score="1" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need some help identifying my bottom bracket. One of the bearings is in a very bad shape and needs to be replaced.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imageshack.com/a/TwPz/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bottom bracket photos&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10573" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T23:46:28.327" Title="Need help identifying bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-30T21:51:28.130" Score="0" ViewCount="3587" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a high speed (about 50km/h, but not sure exactly, as I don't have a speedometer) the disc starting to noise like it is touching the caliper/pad. At low speeds It doesn't noise and it's rotating free - it doesn't touch anything. It's hydraulic discs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it a known issue for disc brakes? Or should one to replace the rotor / caliper?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What should I check for (all components are tighten well)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;It's front disc 180mm rotor. The noise is when going straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;@ Vorac &amp;amp; starnger thanks for comments and answers, but it's looks like it's not the situation:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The noise is starting at some speed, and do not get louder it's the same all the time. The caliper and rotor are well adjusted (few shops checked it). The noise is even if I do not touch the brakes at all.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And it's not about lightly touching the pads - the bike is in use every day, and thou it's not downhill, it supposed to be already gone.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;By the way, it's relatively new Merida bike, so the brakes should be in good condition yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="7999" LastEditDate="2014-10-01T19:33:52.343" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T21:22:51.797" Title="Front disc brake noise only at high speed" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24945" CreationDate="2014-09-30T22:35:42.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears to be a standard square drive sealed cartridge type bottom bracket. It looks as if it came apart. Normally  the bearings are not removed from the shaft but are removed and replaced as an assembly.  If you measure the width of the frame where the bearings were removed you should measure 67mm or 73mm. Measure the length of the square driveshaft. The length will vary depending on the bike type, drive train etc. The other option is English or Italian thread. Most likely it is English but you can't tell from the photos. The options are to look on-line for a bottom bracket that matches your measurements or bring all the pieces to your LBS (local bike shop) and have them measure and match to something in your price range.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T22:35:42.637" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24945" CreationDate="2014-09-30T22:40:34.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a generic BB. The 3P code on the spindle is a clue to the size. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt; Sealed cartridge BBs are ridden until they fail (ie bearing disintegrates, like in your case) at which point you buy a new BB unit. You can try just getting the bearing (but IME it can be a frustrating endeavour). There should be numbers on the bearing face jot those down and visit a parts/auto shop or have our LBS order (if they can). Most parts/auto shops will have a compatibility chart of bearings between brands. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;For example here's a link showing how to identify an SKF bearing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.skf.com/group/products/bearings-units-housings/super-precision-bearings/double_direction_acthbb/marking-on-bearings/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.skf.com/group/products/bearings-units-housings/super-precision-bearings/double_direction_acthbb/marking-on-bearings/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;If you can't find a compatible bearing you have no option but to buy a new BB unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10463" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T23:46:28.327" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T23:46:28.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5662" CreationDate="2014-10-01T00:00:24.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I postulate that poagies are the answer for actual cold weather conditions (below freezing).  I wear the same full finger gloves year round from 75F to -40F.  I have two sets of poagies from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm/store.catalog/Accessories/Dogwood-Designs-Pogies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dogwood Designs&lt;/a&gt;, one of the lighter sets and a plus set that allow this.  My personal experience is that the gloves required to keep hands warm at temperatures lower than 20F also tend to hamper manual dexterity and make shifting and braking a pain. Poagies have the added bonus of keeping your shifters and brake levers clean in nasty conditions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T00:00:24.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5662" CreationDate="2014-10-01T00:49:53.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just recently bought a pair of battery powered gloves - quite expensive but I have a good feeling about them. The brand is Volt. They're recommended by both bicyclists and motorcyclists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest problem is that my hands sweat profusely, complicating the issue hugely. This is going to sound weird, I know, but I've discovered that if I apply antiperspirant on them, it helps a great deal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a little antiperspirant and a pair of Volt battery powered gloves for this winter. Will let you all know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take a look at the Volt gloves online, they are stand-alone gloves as they are: top notch leather, more than ample insulation, extremely well made. Retailed at $200 but I managed to get them for $60. Plug in the battery packs every evening or so (depending on how long you're out) and you're all set but if, by chance, you forget and the batteries die, you'll most likely be all set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The complication of my hands is Raynauds syndrome - therefore the antiperspirant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastEditorUserId="13747" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T08:50:37.687" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T08:50:37.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-01T03:38:21.227" Score="4" ViewCount="3183" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;https://nationalbikechallenge.org/rider/39497&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;4yr old son&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B003YT1B8E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;16in Bikestar&lt;/a&gt; and at times he maxes out the gearing on it trying to keep up with his old man.  How feasible is it to add either a 2 or 3 speed hub to such a bike?  I'm concerned about how much space the hub is going to take up and since I doubt the wheel is a 36h, can one be used with less spokes?  I know kids grow out of bikes quickly but he is going to have this bike for a few years for now, and this wheel could be passed down to his sister (right now I'm planning on getting the same brand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While cruising the flats it seems like his cadence is getting close to the high side while doing 7~8 mph.  Any bit of downhill causes him to max out and spin crazy.  When he wants to pick up the pace a little will also cause him to spin crazy.  We have a few hills along our favorite routes that he struggles on so I can't just swap out the existing gearing.  The front chain ring fills the chain guard so that is out of the question as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;BACKGROUND INFO&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I was mostly joking about the keeping up part, I let him lead and set the pace.  When he falls behind, I slow down and let him pass, but stubborn kid likes to follow the trailer ...uh princess chariot... too.  He also rides this bike daily to daycare and back (2 miles one way).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike was picked with commuting in mind.  We got him this bike for his 4th birthday and about a few weeks after ditching the training wheels.  He just barely fit it then and rides great with it now so we still have some time with it before he gets a new one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatives won't work as well since who wants to downgrade?  He loves having his own bike.  A trailer bike would probably not mesh well, he is already trying to attach his sisters trailer to his bike (and I'm tempted to let him).  Long distance isn't an issue with him either, his first ride without training wheels on a 12 inch bike was 15 miles and his first ride with this bike was 21 miles.  The common &quot;long way&quot; home from daycare is 10 miles itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T15:19:57.983" LastActivityDate="2018-11-03T21:19:02.613" Title="Internal Gear Hub for 16in Wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;kids&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-01T11:11:47.953" Score="6" ViewCount="12383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up some rather expensive tubular wheels on the back of a lot of advice to do with rolling resistance, comfort etc. However I've recently found I'm quite afraid to use them on long training rides for fear of getting a puncture in the middle of nowhere. I'd like to know what people do to prevent/deal with punctures on tubular tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13714" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T12:03:31.203" Title="The best way to deal with/prevent punctures on tubular tyres" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24951" CreationDate="2014-10-01T11:38:48.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that its a good idea given that in a few months, you're going to want a 20 inch bicycle for the child. IGH's wouldn't work since the hub width is likely smaller than standard, and mounting a derailleur would be a problem as well. Also, if you were to find a compatible hub or whatever (given the 20 spoke constraint that andy256 mentioned in the comments), you'd be spending quite a bit for building it. You'd also have to run your shifter cables and what not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you could do is get something with a 20 inch bike with a low top tube (like a Specialized Hotrock 20) and see if you can get the seat post low enough (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/recreational-family/441184-16-inch-bicycle-gears.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;possibly by cutting it&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, just slow down and let the kid catch up. But I don't think the combination exists out of the box.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T11:38:48.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24946" CreationDate="2014-10-01T14:35:00.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the alignment of the rotor as it passes through the caliper.  If it's closer to one pad than the other, try to realign the caliper so that it is centered around the rotor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the noise &quot;fade in&quot; as you accelerate?  Does it get louder and louder as you go faster and faster?  Or is there some critical speed at which it starts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it go away if you ride the brake very slightly?  Sometimes a really mild brake rub will go away if you put just a tiny amount of pressure on the brake.  If that's the case, I would just ignore it, it'll probably go away/wear in relatively soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T14:35:00.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24954" CreationDate="2014-10-01T16:08:02.143" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use puncture resistant tire liner like that one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flowbikestore.com/band-zefal-puncture-zliner-blue-26&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flowbikestore.com/band-zefal-puncture-zliner-blue-26&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13951" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T16:08:02.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24954" CreationDate="2014-10-01T17:06:39.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try adding sealant to your tubular tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tufo Tire Sealant, Stans's No-tubes (and other tubeless sealants) can be used to deal with small punctures. Most recommend not using the sealant as a preventative measure, but more so as an after the fact solution to quickly fix punctures on the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Tufo Standard tire sealant says that it can be used as a preventative measure, but I can't speak for this. I've heard that it could affect ride quality, so it may be best used in a roadside emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T17:06:39.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-01T17:15:47.223" Score="10" ViewCount="24538" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I need to sit more upright on an old Fuji road bike, can I turn the drop handlebars upright and reversed so that they come up and then point to the rear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen anything on the net from anyone who has done that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13952" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-10-01T21:38:29.657" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T14:03:21.790" Title="Reversing Drop Bars" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24960" CreationDate="2014-10-01T18:19:52.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been done. The bar is mounting in the same place.  You just need to unwrap the tape to the levers and turn the levers over and move them to the new position. You may need longer cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rnvrf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Aryf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T01:34:43.163" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T01:34:43.163" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23424" CreationDate="2014-10-01T19:37:09.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a chain hanger braze on&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZEfWl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chain hanger&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or a chain slap braze on, the chain may have been looped onto the wrong side.  Reassembly got it onto the right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastEditorUserId="13745" LastEditDate="2014-10-01T19:43:13.500" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T19:43:13.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24960" CreationDate="2014-10-01T19:44:15.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly can be done, just consider that the shape of bar's curvature may not be the same when reversed, causing awkward grip or difficulty positioning the brake levers. Even if this is not the case, you will be left with only one hand position (This may not be an issue though, specially if the bike is repurposed as a commuter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the OP is interested in the most economical solution. Here is an example that uses what seems to be a normal drop handlebar turned upside down &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqh25.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the handlebar completely flipped, no just rotated. I mean, the installer had to completely undo the handlebar from the stem, and remove the brake levers, flipped the bars and reinstalled the levers and bar tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure he also had to change cables for longer ones to account for the new height of the installed levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be the most economic option, as you will only incurr in the cost of the new cable set (possible four of them: two brakes, two shifters) an labour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider though that this configuration leaves only one practical hand position, depending on the particular shape of the handlebar used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other options involve changin or adding parts to the bike. Purpose made or modified handlebars can be a better fit for the use intender for the bike. There are several different types of handlebar to choose from. (See Batman's terrific answer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another option called &quot;steerer extender&quot;. This will allow you to mount the handlebar in normal position but several inches higher. It is like a steerer tube that in one end has a clamp os the same size as the stem would have, so you replace your stem with it. Then you re install the stem  in the top part on this tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a bike with such a device installed: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8HYs0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This option may require to change the cables too, depenting on how much you raise the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: I haven't noticed the OP says it is an &lt;em&gt;old&lt;/em&gt; road bicycle. Depending how old is the bike, it may be fitted with a &lt;strong&gt;quill stem&lt;/strong&gt;, which is normally adjustable for height. The adjustment is very easy to perform: Just loosen the centre bolt, tap it gently with a rubber or wood mallet to loosen the quill and then pull up the stem. Look for markings indicating the minimum insert. You may be lucky that the stem on your bike is long enough so that it allows you to raise the handlebar as much as you need. If the stem is not long enough and you don't want to settle for the height it provides, then you would need to buy a different one (If reversing the bars is not possible or comfortable enough for the current handlebar).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reversed handlebar setup is not advisable for sport use. Steerer extenders aren't either. Both types of setup are more suitable for commuting or touring. A quill stem used higher is still usable for sporting provided that the position apt for the activity (personally I wouldn't use the top of the bars higher that saddle's height)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:33:14.247" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:33:14.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24960" CreationDate="2014-10-01T20:37:24.180" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &quot;yes&quot; - you're free to experiment with re-orienting the bars. One issue with the bars pointing towards you (reverse of the first picture) is that if you crash, you could have the ends of the bars hit you (making the arrangement shown in the first picture possibly slightly preferable, though the rest of the post gives better options). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of road bars which you can move around - drops (which can be reversed as shown in the picture, and I have seen conventional brake levers mounted in the usual direction with respect to the bar) &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XqEty.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reversedrop&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjHFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bullhorn bars (which can be made by cutting drop bars if you're so inclined) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sWBwZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bullhorn&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;butterfly bars &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v7ND7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;butterfly&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue is the (effective) top tube length, which forces a certain amount of lean due to how much you have to reach the handlebars. The seat can only go so forward and you can only get so short of a stem before the bike becomes unridable, and this is what generally precludes the switch from drop bars to flat bars on most frames and vice versa, since the effective top tube length might not be adequate in both cases even if the seat post and stems are swapped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you'll need a new frame if there isn't enough adjustment between the stem and seatpost positions to make whatever orientation of handlebars you try to work (you are pretty much free to try anything that fits, at your own risk of course). Also, note that your handling may not be as good as it was before you decided to do this adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heck, the sky's the limit. If you had a threadless stem+steerer, you can leave out the star nut and cap and install a second quill stem inside the steerer so you can run &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/org//thorn/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;double handlebars&lt;/a&gt; as this example from Sheldon Brown: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EaZng.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sheldon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't see an obvious way of running more than 2 handlebars, though. Your mileage may vary.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to note is that road and mountain handlebars have different diameters for where things clamp on, so if you do try to swap a mountain bar in, you'll need new brake+shift levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, feel free to experiment, but take into account that the effective top tube length is the main thing governing the bike fit, and with the seat adjustments (function of seat post, saddle) and stem adjustments, you may or may not be able to find something that is able to fit you well for a given handlebar orientation and type (and even if it does fit well, the way the bike behaves may change). Borrowing an adjustable stem (allows you to easily adjust the height and angle of the stem, but not the angle of the bar with respect to the steerer as much as just tilting the bar up or down) may help you a bit in finding the right fit (they do make adjustable quill stems, but they are a bit harder to find than the threadless case). One thing I would recommend against trying is installing the stem backwards (which is technically possible, but would most likely always result in a very twitchy bike). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to start with an adjustable stem and raise the handlebars without changing their orientation to see if you can get a good fit by adjusting the stem and seat. If this doesn't work, try a different handlebar style or futzing around with reversed bars or whatever. If this also doesn't work, get a different bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-10-05T02:11:04.090" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T02:11:04.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24968" CreationDate="2014-10-01T20:44:42.680" Score="1" ViewCount="3659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got what most people would consider a cheap and toy road bike as a gift. It came with very primitive RD and cassette (shimano SIS? I think). I enjoy upgrading my stuff, my question is, would upgrading to a RD such as shimano tourney and another slightly more expensive shimano cassette yield &lt;strong&gt;better shifting performance and durability?&lt;/strong&gt; After adjusting my RD it shifts fairly ok, however I feel that it is very cheap and flimsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13681" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T17:02:57.797" Title="Upgrading rear derailer and cassette" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24967" CreationDate="2014-10-01T20:55:14.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its a low quality bike, you're probably best off just selling it and buying a decent bike to begin with -- there are good used road bikes for reasonably low prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem is that cheap road bikes likely don't even have cassette+freehub systems -- they have freewheels. High quality freewheels aren't cheap, and you do need a freewheel remover of the appropriate type. It also won't really affect the shifting performance unless your rear cogs are not actually ramped for shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear derailleur upgrade may make it stay in adjustment better, but the rear derailleur is really a &quot;yes man&quot; to the shifters - the shifters tell how much cable to pull and the derailleur does that subject to the limit screws not letting you shift into the spokes or out of the rear cluster,the B screw's body angle and the cable tension being good. To get good performance out of this, you'd need good shifters and a good derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, shifters are not cheap and have to be matched to the number of speeds in the back (unless you run friction shifters where the shifting is a continuous motion which you trim), and will likely cost more than the bike itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best option in terms of performance is to just adjust everything as well as you can and run the bike as is. When things start failing, get a new bike. If the things are so low quality that Tourney is an upgrade, pretty much anything you do will be an improvement in performance and durability &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; it will also cost more than the bike is worth (and you will likely to be able to buy a used bike with better quality components once you take into account the component costs (possibly even excluding tools+labor costs)). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T20:55:14.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12428" CreationDate="2014-10-02T01:55:37.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hal Ruzal, a bike security expert, has a series of videos on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTA3JsZWiec&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt;, some of which are done in conjunction with the police.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one he answers just this very question. His answer is not what you may think and does not match the current top answer here. He says it is much better to lock it in a quiet area. This is because the thieves are more edgy in terms of being seen or heard. In a busy area they are not noticed and the noises and things they do blend in with all else that is going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has spoken to thieves and knows how they work / think. He often grades bikes based on how well they are locked. If you can keep your eye on it then that is a different matter of course. And of course it must be locked to something secure which may also determine where you lock it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also add that locking it next to other bikes does not work as some answers suggest. As the thief blends in. You look and think he is just unlocking his bike next to yours - but he is after your bike! I once came out of an office where I locked my bike next to others to find a guy suddenly jump. I swore I saw him trying to unlock my bike and move away. He seemed to then pretend he was unlocking the bike next to mine! I was not sure so just left it as my lock and bike were not damaged. He may have been trying to pick the lock. But it shows how they blend in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T06:56:04.567" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T06:56:04.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24951" CreationDate="2014-10-02T04:10:55.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty easy if you have a spoke cutter and are willing to run a funny spoke pattern. I suggest buying (ideally second hand) a three speed hub and lacing it into the 16&quot; rim yourself. With a wheel that small and a child on it there's not enough load to make strength an issue, so you can reasonably either lace a 20 spoke rim to a 36 spoke hub using whatever holes are closest, or ignore two spoke holes in the rim and use every second hole in the hub (18/36). It's probably not going to be pretty, but it will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I think you're going about this backwards. Why are you riding faster than he can? Much as you wouldn't suggest stilts so he can keep up when you walk, gears don't address the problem that you can ride faster than him. He doesn't have the power or endurance you do, so without a power assist he's going to be slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to cover long distances, perhaps a trailer bike would be a better solution? That way he can &quot;help&quot;, and you can go whatever speed you like. That's generally safer for your kids, since you're in control and the only real risk is them jumping off the bike while you're moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T03:43:41.117" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T03:43:41.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-02T07:40:41.687" Score="2" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the last two weeks, I was using my bike heavily in rainy weather. I was cycling during rain for hours. Now I noticed that the discs of my disc brakes started to corrode. What can I do now? Should I just clean them? If yes, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1316" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T12:04:03.927" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T12:04:03.927" Title="My disc brake rotors have started to corrode. What can I do?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24973" CreationDate="2014-10-02T11:43:48.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, it will go away if you apply the brakes a bit (it will be a bit noisy at first, but after a few applications it will look as good as new), since the rust is likely only on the surface (this is one way to tell if a car has been not driven for a few days - rust spots appear on the brake discs, but they'll go away after a short trip around town). Otherwise, if its more serious, you can  try light sanding with sand paper / steel wool / wire brush or something similar and then cleaning the rotor with isopropanol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes without saying, but, don't get oil on the brake rotors while cleaning it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T11:43:48.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24982" CreationDate="2014-10-02T16:22:57.763" Score="3" ViewCount="1133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make my own gear cable of non-standard length. I have a cable with one end capped like the larger end-cap shown in the first picture; the other end is currently bare — I have trimmed the cable to the right length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to create an end-cap on the bare end of the cable (after sliding through the ferrule), similar to the thinner end-cap in the first diagram. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered using the standard 1.6 mm cable caps but these aren't not going to work because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need a slender and well-rounded end-cap to fit inside the ferrule&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pinched cable tip fails because the force of a gear change is applied directly to the anchor (and it just gets torn off)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nGVVS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How are these end-capped cables manufactured and therefore how can I make my own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My specific ferrule and indicator are here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wCDj2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5170" LastEditorUserId="5170" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T19:31:46.403" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T02:51:04.240" Title="How do you make an end-capped gear cable?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23639" CreationDate="2014-10-02T17:28:31.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hoods were degrading too causing me to get black rubber on my hands after every ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called Shimano and they said that they no longer support the ST-5500 lever and they do not carry any replacement parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called Hudz, and they said that they do not have hoods that are compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A STOPGAP SOLUTION: Rub your hoods with baby powder. It makes them much less sticky, and no more black residue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13846" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T17:28:31.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-02T19:01:03.953" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Front wheel hub is loose and the whole thing wobbles a bit. Im a fan of dubstep but there's a little too much wubwub in my hub. How do I tighten that bad boy up properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13702" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T10:35:56.293" Title="Loose Hub on front wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24980" CreationDate="2014-10-02T19:15:14.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the type of hub, but most commonly you'll need a 15mm and 17mm cone wrench.  A picture of the hub would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13925" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T19:15:14.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24977" CreationDate="2014-10-02T19:38:30.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of industry solutions for crimping stops on to a cable like this.  They sometimes require a special crimp tool, but you can usually get by with a vice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might start with something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.savacable.com/pages/prod_02_04.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.savacable.com/pages/prod_02_04.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the second entry, &quot;Stop Sleeves&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T19:38:30.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-03T03:03:12.077" Score="1" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Trek 3500 and am an avid biker... I bike on roads mostly, but sometimes on trails too.. Is there any information anyone could share that would assist me in adjusting air pressure in the Tire? or is it through and through fully filled up tires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel that there might be a necessary modulation to better the ride experience on flat and smooth (road) and difficult (trails) tracks... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13769" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T05:30:20.143" Title="Adjusting air pressure in the Tyre /Tire" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-10-03T13:08:46.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24984" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-03T03:41:17.890" Score="1" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Sekai 2000 bike and the rims are bent very minutely. If I turn the wheels front or back and put my fingernail in a fixed position close to the rim, it is less then 1mm. Is that anything I need to worry about? I will be riding out in the country on asphalt and then down a gravel lane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering replacing the rims and tires. I kinda of want yellow tires and rim since the bike is blue. All the running gear is brand new and some brand I cant recall at the moment. I know the tires are 27x1 1/4 or 630 x 28. Do they have yellow colored rims for that size? I know the rims aren't that important but I like to admire the little things. either that or black or white rims that will contrast between the blue and yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13966" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T13:37:48.030" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T13:46:39.660" Title="Sekai 2000 tire and rim?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24984" CreationDate="2014-10-03T05:16:14.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some general advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bend/wobble is likely nothing to worry about and you can search &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=truing%20a%20wheel&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/#q=how%20to%20true%20bicycle%20wheel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google&lt;/a&gt; for how to true a wheel. If there's less than 1mm of un-true-ness, I wouldn't even worry about truing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new wheelset will likely cost more than the bike, and since it sounds like you have a perfectly good one on the bike already it's hard to recommend doing. That said, if you want colored rims and tires, you're likely going to have to perform a 700c conversion to take a modern wheel since hooligan colored stuff wasn't reasonably common on road bikes in the pre-1980s as far as I can tell (and 700c became popular after that). The 700c conversion essentially requires the ability to move the brakes down about 4 mm and spreading the frame (cold setting it) to fit a modern hub. Then you can buy some (generally low quality) 700c wheels which are colored to your liking, along with tires provided they clear your frame (you're going to have to measure it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for handlebars, note that changing the handlebars may change your fit. Make sure the bar has the right diameter for the levers to clamp to as well as your stem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of fenders on the market, so go find something you like - make sure you have the eyelets or mounting method for the fenders you choose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T13:46:39.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24983" CreationDate="2014-10-03T05:23:00.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you run stock Trek 3500 so you have 2 inch tyres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you are not 200lbs (judging by your photo, location and &lt;code&gt;fever for fitness&lt;/code&gt; in your profile)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with 40 PSI on the rear and 35 PSI on the front and ride at that pressure for a couple of rides to understand how it feels. Then adjust +-3 PSI to see how the handling changes. If you ever get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=pinch%20flat&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pinch flat&lt;/a&gt; increase 1 PSI on front and 4 on the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For trails, aim for a 10-20% height reduction on the tyre height on where it touches the ground when you are standing on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T05:30:20.143" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T05:30:20.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-03T12:25:48.597" Score="1" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I already tried removing the cables that might pull it to the left. Still the same. I straightened the seat. I aligned the wheel properly. It's starting to annoy me. I cant ride my bike right. All the shops I visited told me to replace my bearings, which I did. It still it steers to the left. What else could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13968" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T18:22:10.753" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T19:28:03.193" Title="My front wheel was steering to the right... now it's steering to the left. What's the cause of this?" Tags="&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24987" CreationDate="2014-10-03T15:30:35.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Factors that have an impact on the steering include external forces and internal forces. External forces include things like cables, the riders centre of gravity and forces coming from the wheel (out of true, dead hub bearing). Internal forces have to do with the headset itself, if the bearing cups are not parallel, if the adjustment is incorrect, if a foreign object made its way into the headset, if there is pitting in the bearing cups. A bent steerer could also be it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have eliminated the cable pulling (or pushing) as a problem, and your wheel is true, try adjusting the headset bearings. They should be as loose as possible without having any play or knocking. A dead bearing on one side of your hub would probably have a negligible contribution. If you've done that and it's still a problem, I would suspect the seating of the bearings not being parallel or the&#xA; steerer tube not being perfectly straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13892" LastEditorUserId="13892" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T15:53:39.913" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T15:53:39.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20847" CreationDate="2014-10-03T18:52:12.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think i may have the answer to your question. I believe your bicycle is a Takara.  This is currently my girlfriends bike, and i have attached some photos.  The only things that do not match up are: 1) The front of the head-tube does does not have pointed lugs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v51LA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ojkbm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Head Tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j8c5T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drive Side Dropout&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rFnM0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Head Tube with Pump Peg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nB9UM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dVao3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left Side shifter mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0YPmd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain Hanger, and chain stay cable stop on top of chain stay&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13970" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T18:52:12.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-03T21:35:00.210" Score="0" ViewCount="4061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialize Roubaix that's about 10 years old with the Shimano 105 component set. I've started to develop a problem in the rear derailer where when I shift to a higher gear/smaller cog, the shifter &quot;jumps&quot; multiple gears. Happens whether I'm on the middle or big chainring in front. And yes, I know it's jumping multiple gears because it takes multiple shifts to get back into the gear I started from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be the opposite of the stickiness most people complain about. :) Any ideas on how to address it, short of replacing the shifter? I've already replaced the cables, adjusted shifting, checked the chain for wear, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5833" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T13:19:07.637" Title="Shimano 105 brifters - rear shift jumps multiple gears" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24990" CreationDate="2014-10-03T21:51:51.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often, this is a problem with derailleur adjustment, so I'd double check and triple check that first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is check if the rear derailleur is bent. If it is, get it un-bent - it is near impossible to adjust a rear derailleur which is bent adequately. The second thing to make sure you have adequate cable tension, proper cable installation and your derailleur is adjusted properly. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are some good directions on doing that (as well as &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your cables are installed properly and you've adjusted your derailleur correctly (and as correctly as possible) and your chain+cassette aren't worn, then I'd start by replacing the rear derailleur (you may have developed a lot of play in it, and it is significantly cheaper than a shifter) and then look into replacing the shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IIRC, the Shimano 105 shifters from about 10 years ago were shoddily built, so it may be the shifters after all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T21:51:51.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8716" CreationDate="2014-10-03T23:25:53.900" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boiling water helped but hair spray was best &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13972" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T23:25:53.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24977" CreationDate="2014-10-04T02:51:04.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If this is a 3 speed Sturmey Archer or similar system you need a replacement cable. It will come complete with the cable and housing with the ends installed. There are universal replacement cables available (I have one on my 35 year old Raleigh). The shift adjuster ferrule has a clamp/pinch nut attached so a standard shift cable can be used. Checking several on line retailers shows most of the replacement cables (non NOS) use this universal setup&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T02:51:04.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24925" CreationDate="2014-10-04T03:06:14.717" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy     max out tire pressure, get 1.75 thick wheels with no tread, speed up at downhills&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13974" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T03:06:14.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14194" CreationDate="2014-10-04T14:52:22.327" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have on my Kona Unit 2013 the stock &quot;Formula DC52&quot; - it's very quiet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13977" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T14:52:22.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24967" CreationDate="2014-10-04T17:02:57.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year I found my girlfriend an older Takara (classic steel frame) with shimano SIS components, and it worked fine.  Yes, the components were flimsy, junky, and jumped on certain gears, but it got the job done until we could upgrade it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next year we purchased a Trek 600 (aluminum frame) with all shimano 600 components and stripped it.  We then replaced the Takara Sis components with ultergra and it is now like a brand new bike.  It works better than ever.  Shits like a dream, and very solid.  Plus, if we ever happen to get a new frame, we have the components and the know how of installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano is usually universal, so upgrading parts is easy. Cost of tools was about 75 dollars.  But who doesn't want an excuse to buy more tools? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With bikes I have found than components make all the difference, they are truly the soul of a bike, and you will always be happier with more solid hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13970" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T17:02:57.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14928" CreationDate="2014-10-04T18:57:47.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;User 6527 is probably right actually; 3 speed hubs really only need to be accurately adjusted in second gear; pull more cable and you're in 3rd gear on a shimano hub or 1st gear on a SA hub, release cable and you're in 1st on a shimano hub or 3rd on an SA hub.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The problem comes with 7 and 8 speed nexus hubs that aren't compatible with 7 or 8 speed derailleur shifters; as noted the cable pull is different and and the indexes in the shifter don't match up with the gears in the hub.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T18:57:47.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14194" CreationDate="2014-10-04T19:17:01.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the Stealth Hub from True Precision Components; as opposed to using pawls these hubs use a roller clutch.  They are completely silent when the coast, the engagement is instantaneous and the cost is astronomical ;)  I recently built myself a new rear wheel for my singlespeed mountain bike using one of these and really enjoy coasting in silence.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trueprecisioncomponents.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trueprecisioncomponents.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although, now that I think about it, the bike is probably spaced at 120mm; it could be spread out to 130 to use a standard road hub, or axle spacers could be added to the BMX version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for silent clutch being dead, it would appear not as it's featured on Shimano's Disc version of the Nexus 3speed and I've found new wheels thru J+B imports that are build with silent clutch hubs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T19:17:01.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24990" CreationDate="2014-10-04T19:23:37.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the same stickiness problem but affecting a different pawl in the shifter?  Try flushing the shifter with some sort of light oil; I use 3in1 oil with PTFE that can be bought from any auto-parts store for cheap.  It comes in an aerosol can with a little red straw that should allow you to spray directly into the hole where the shift cable threads thru.  Flood the shifter with the stuff to where it's dripping down the lever then shift thru the gears several dozen times and see if that helps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T19:23:37.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24960" CreationDate="2014-10-04T19:48:40.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our neck of the woods we call that 'bum bars' as it's a recourse mostly taken by the poor or homeless who don't have the financial resources to outfit themselves with a bike that fits their riding style.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not just post on Craigslist that you're interested in trading for a more upright comfort hybrid; no doubt someone in your area has a 'grandpa' bike that they'd gladly trade for something speedier.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T19:48:40.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25011" CreationDate="2014-10-05T01:29:01.450" Score="9" ViewCount="4582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to fit my bike pump onto my son's bike. The tires are too small, and there isn't enough of a gap to put the head of a bike pump on the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any valve extenders (not permanent) that I can use when I need to inflate his bike tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13980" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T09:26:01.187" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T12:26:59.723" Title="Valve Extender for Kids Bike" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;valves&gt;&lt;kids&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25010" CreationDate="2014-10-05T01:32:23.993" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Slime makes some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slime.com/shop/valve-extenders/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;valve extenders for Schrader valves&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ajYSh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;, and if you have a Presta valve you can use a Presta to Schrader valve adapter (and if you really want, you can attach a Schrader valve extender to that, since you can buy the Schrader valve extenders at Walmart or whatever)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1rwpv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some companies (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps/PrestaValveExtender&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Topeak&lt;/a&gt;) make Presta valve extenders as well:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VcrSM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;topeakpresta&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, you can also use a little hose attached to the pump to better access the valve like the ones offered with some Lezyne hand pumps if the chuck is too big. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a bendy extension hose is &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uJWek.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also 90 degree extenders which you screw on: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FIY85.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-10-05T01:47:22.647" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T01:47:22.647" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-05T13:42:31.607" Score="1" ViewCount="1162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 10 year old Trek 7300 FX hybrid which came with Matrix 750 double walled rims. &quot;559 x 19&quot; is marked on the sticker of these rims. The tyres fitted are 700 x 38C (622) - I'm assuming (should I be?) that the rim/tyre combination give me a 700c wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I have is that the freehub on the rear has gone (there's a crack on the inner cone section covering the bearings) and so it's not freewheeling without locking the chain up, and I'm thinking about a new hub and spokes versus a set of new wheels. Looking at the hassle versus cost savings, it seems that Amazon will provide a decent set of wheels spoked, hubbed and tyred for around £60 whereas a wheel rebuild might save me about £10 to £20 on that amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13983" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-10-05T18:44:05.293" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T05:30:19.377" Title="Choosing New Rims/Hubs &amp; Assessing Size" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14372" CreationDate="2014-10-05T15:50:27.257" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like wd40. I usually use this protocol when using it for both degreasing and lubrication.  This only works if wd 40 is being used for both degreasing and lubrication, and there cannot be substitution.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Spray chain and cassette and let sit 15-20 minutes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Wash chain and cassette in soapy water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Dry completely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Lightly spray wd 40 on the chain and cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Lightly grip chain with rag and run through about 3-4 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone says Wd 40 is a lousy lubricant.  But, when it comes to lubricant less is always more, and wd40 seems to lubricate the right ammount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using wd40 leaves my drive chain feeling quick and light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13970" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T15:50:27.257" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-05T20:11:08.373" Score="0" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Rhode Gear childs seat from a friend but they needed the Blackburn rack they had for it to go on for there next seat, where would I find out what type of Blackburn frame I need to fit an Appollo Phaze mountain bike with disk brakes. Thanks for any help or pointers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13988" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T21:23:09.990" Title="Bike seat frame" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35430" CreationDate="2014-10-05T20:34:52.100" Score="1" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Schwinn Vestige and a very long, bumpy, dirt/gravel driveway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago, we rode downtown and the frame lit up amazing, as it should.&#xA;On the way home, it was not lit up. Hmm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a tiny amount of investigation, I found the cap and cover was missing (I mostly blame the driveway).&#xA;I ordered a new one (a mere 7 dollars) and installed it.  But alas, the frame still would not light up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I clipped and stripped the wire from the LED's to the cap/cover thinking they may have been gunk-ified and re-installed the cap/cover.&#xA;Nothing. &#xA;I switched the red and black wire within the cap/cover.&#xA;Still nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested the electrical output from the Shimano DH-3N30 Dynamo hub and all is good.&#xA;Still no lights. I pulled the generator/wires out from the frame to inspect for damage and, as expected, there was none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am at a total loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The local bike shop admitted I knew more about electricity then they did. &#xA;I cannot find any advice or schematic regarding how the lights light up nor can I figure out how to test the lights beyond the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that I have not probed the wires in the frame while spinning the wheel to check for connectivity.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5940" LastEditorUserId="3674" LastEditDate="2014-12-19T11:59:58.573" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T00:36:43.890" Title="Schwinn Vestige no longer lights up; why not?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25020" CreationDate="2014-10-05T21:23:09.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to the Blackburn website and look through the disc compatible racks, or find out what rack your friend has and get that one. Or look in the seat's manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Amazon spiel on the Blackburn EX-1 Disc Rack (or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackburndesign.com/racks/ex-1-disc-rack.html#.VDG2XSnxJBM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer spiel&lt;/a&gt;) lists the copilot seats as compatible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3831/do-i-need-a-blackburn-bike-rack-for-my-copilot-limo-kids-seat-or-will-the-vinta&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; which shows that the seat's manual specifies particular racks, so you should consult it before purchasing a rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T21:23:09.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25017" CreationDate="2014-10-06T03:15:29.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freehubs can be removed from the hub and replaced; it involves removing the axle from the hub and then loosening a fixing bolt with a 12mm allen key.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Visit your local bike shop and ask if they have any thrashed rear cassette wheels; if they're cool they'll give it to you free or next to free.  Pull the freehubs and hope to find something compatible; there are several different spline patterns.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13978" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T03:15:29.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25025" CreationDate="2014-10-06T04:33:30.150" Score="1" ViewCount="2768" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will the kenda K161 cyclocross tires (27x1 3/8s) fit on a 27x1 1/4 rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I havent been successful at finding this question on here or on google, apologies if it has been asked a million times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13966" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T14:51:29.440" Title="Kenda cyclo cross 27 x 1 3/8 fit on 27 x 1 1/4 rim?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25024" CreationDate="2014-10-06T08:40:03.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can confirm tyre fit using the ETRTO spec, which should be specified on the sidewalls of your Kendas and the tyres that were previously fitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the format is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ww-ddd&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;code&gt;ww&lt;/code&gt; is the nominal tyre width (often measured at the widest point when fitted to the manufacturer's test rim, rather than at the tread) in millimetres, and &lt;code&gt;ddd&lt;/code&gt; is the bead diameter in .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect a 27 x 1 1/4&quot; tyre to be specified &lt;strong&gt;28-630&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;, there is no other standard bead diameter using &lt;em&gt;27&quot;&lt;/em&gt; as its nominal measurement, so any &quot;27&quot; tyre is likely to have a 630mm bead. 1 3/8&quot; is equivalent to 35mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not previously encountered any cyclists using 27&quot; wheels for cyclocross. I assumed &quot;700c&quot;/622mm to be panacea for all but the shortest of CX competitors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2014-10-06T12:40:31.153" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T12:40:31.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2014-10-06T09:45:51.450" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had similar problem with a tube of super glue. My mother-in-law suggested that I put the tube in the freezer. I actually store the tube in a glass bottle and close the cap - to avoid contact with food. The glue never dries up. You can try the same with your glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13990" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T09:45:51.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-06T18:53:10.650" Score="2" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is quite a big price difference between Tiagra and 105/Ultegra chainrings. Do the more expensive ones last longer? Is there difference between performance? Is the weight only relevant difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, all my current components are Tiagra (triple/10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13995" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T18:57:56.760" Title="What are the differences between Tiagra and 105/Ultegra chainrings" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25027" CreationDate="2014-10-06T18:57:56.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most people, they're just a bit pricier. The weight difference is insignificant for almost everyone (excluding possibly serious racers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for durability, I'd expect its more of a function of maintenance rather than trim level. But I'd actually guess the &quot;lower end&quot; Tiagra part is probably a bit more durable since its probably got a bit more material on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T18:57:56.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-06T21:27:31.320" Score="3" ViewCount="2138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or do I need a special control circuit aside from the included electronics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13997" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T12:56:45.547" Title="Do DC HUB Motors For Electric Bikes use regenerative braking?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25030" CreationDate="2014-10-06T22:25:49.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem is that you don't brake for very long compared to a normal battery charging cycle, so regenerative braking doesn't match the battery very well. Some systems use supercapacitors because they're designed for this sort of situation, but those are expensive and heavy in a bicycle application. Motors also typically don't work as well generating as motors, so they'll be less efficient, meaning a standard 250W motor might put out 200W as a generator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The physics is pretty simple: a 100kg rider travelling at 36km/hr (10m/s) has E = 1/2 m v² = .5 x 100 x 10² = 5000 joules of energy. That's 5000 Watt-seconds. If you gently brake to a standstill in 5 seconds you're putting 1000W into your brakes, assuming no air resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical battery is 36V and about 15AH, = 36 x 15 x 60 x 60 = 1,944,000 Joules or 2MJ, and takes 4-10 hours to charge. Pushing 5kJ into that isn't going to make a lot of difference - it's a 2000/5 = 4% recharge, assuming 100% efficiency. And you're not going to get 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much better scenario is either you pedal against the regenerative brakes, or you spend half an hour going down a long steep-ish hill, generating 200W all the way. Since a typical rider puts out 150-250 watts, for you to charge at that power level will mean pedalling very hard - you're going to need 300W or more to keep the bike moving, more like 500W taking into account all the losses. A world-class cyclist can put out 500W for an hour... and after that hour, the battery will be 30-50% charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/webhp?q=bicycle%20power%20assist%20regenerative%20braking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;google search&lt;/a&gt; gave me a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.electricbike.com/regenerative-brakes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;good explanation&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://glowwormbicycles.com.au/frequently-asked-questions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dismissal of the idea&lt;/a&gt;, some strongly held opinions and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cnet.com/au/news/panasonic-bike-uses-regenerative-braking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;couple of production&lt;/a&gt; bikes that have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-10-06T22:33:20.767" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T22:33:20.767" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2014-10-06T23:18:08.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;People tend not to use the front brake exclusively or mostly because they fear the bike will flip over.  As I was taught by a Police motorcyclist - if the front wheel locks you will still go straight, if the back wheel locks you will hit the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly in my experience of non-competitive cycling events (sportives, multi-day Charity rides) I've seen a number of relatively inexperienced riders crash solely due to locking their rear wheels by braking too hard, and never due to locking the front wheel and slipping over or flying over the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13999" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T23:18:08.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15515" CreationDate="2014-10-07T02:30:17.490" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a Shimano group set, I prefer the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/mountain/New_Deore_XT.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano groupset xt&lt;/a&gt;. It is budget friendly. You'll love the quality and the performance of this brand and unlike some of the other group sets it works smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14000" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T12:29:36.683" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T12:29:36.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25038" CreationDate="2014-10-07T09:35:16.280" Score="1" ViewCount="2058" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to purchase this hub, rim and suitable spokes, but I am not able to find dimensions of this hub necessary to calculate spoke size. I have checked usual places where such information can be found, but without success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone own this hub, and has taken its measures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T11:51:05.260" Title="Shimano Claris FH-2400 Rear Hub Dimensions" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24980" CreationDate="2014-10-07T10:35:56.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be useful to check if the skewer is tightened properly too. See that a lot in the shop when customers bring their bikes back saying the wheel pulls to one side when they brake. They also have disc brakes, hence why it pulls to one side. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14002" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T10:35:56.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25010" CreationDate="2014-10-07T10:45:36.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always buy some new tubes with the valve set at a 45 degree angle. Schwalbe sell them for £5/6 depending on the size you need. Easiest way I'd say and saves you faffing about drilling holes or screwing valve extenders on and off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14002" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T10:45:36.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25034" CreationDate="2014-10-07T11:51:05.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Details found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://productinfo.shimano.com/specifications.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://productinfo.shimano.com/specifications.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Spoke Hole P.C.D. Left/Right (mm) 45&#xA;Flange distance (mm) 57.9&#xA;Dish (mm) 8.4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on these figures, I would calculate the following values for your chosen Spoke Length Calculator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Centreline to Left flange: 37.35mm&#xA;Centreline to Right flange: 20.55&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spoke hole diameter is not given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T11:51:05.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24805" CreationDate="2014-10-07T15:09:38.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bicycle and riding style will permit it, I would certainly recommend getting &quot;proper&quot; fenders / mudguards which are close to the wheel and cover it a good portion of the way round.  These will do the best job at keeping spray away from you and from the rest of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say old standard frame - so that sounds like it may well have the right attachments for fenders / mudguards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spent many years commuting year round in London - 12 miles each way, and spent a great deal of time and bitter experience optimizing my set up.  I tried different bike set ups and a variety of fenders / mudguards and by far the most effective were the SKS thermoplastic ones which sit very close to the wheel.  They stop the most spray going up your back / butt and over the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the weather is reasonably inclement the difference between ok and good fenders is a lot…in my experience of riding through driving rain, sleet and snow!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13999" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T15:09:38.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10286" CreationDate="2014-10-07T16:52:35.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not one place that has an exact list of every bike model ever produced but if you go onto one of the sites mentioned or &lt;a href=&quot;http://mechhanger.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mechhanger.com/&lt;/a&gt; just type inn your bike make and it will narrow it down to a few derailleur hangers to compare. If you are still stuck, send them a picture and let them do the hard work!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14007" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T16:52:35.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24468" CreationDate="2014-10-07T19:02:03.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From personal experience (Xtracycle's EdgeRunner), if you go DIY or pre-selected kit, make sure you budget for companion upgrades:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Battery, motor, controller will add significant weight to the bicycle.  Factor in cargo as well (you'd be surprised how much MORE you're likely to haul around if the effort is lower).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The motor drive/pedal assist will guarantee higher velocities (more like 20+mph vs 10-15mph).  Both will contribute to a much harsher environment for your drive train, braking surfaces, and wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My upgrade path in order of conservative importance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A reliable and trust-worthy brake system is essential.  Cable-actuated calipers with a correctly sized rotor (for total ride weight) on a quality disc hub is the bare minimum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If within budget, get hydraulic brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front drive-train including shifter, crankset and chainrings, and derailleur: with battery assist, you spend a lot of time in high gear - make sure it can safely handle the torque you will be dishing out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear drive-train - shifter, cassette and derailleur: same reasons as above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear brake system - if not upgraded at the same time, this is where I would place your dollars last.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14008" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T19:02:03.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-07T20:07:57.790" Score="1" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hoping someone can help me as I don't know much about bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a 10 speed bike at a garage sale which the owner said was custom made by a bike maker in St. Louis, MO.  She said the frame was chromoly steel.  The frame has the name &quot;Behring,&quot; which I assume was the builder, and there is a label on the bottom tube which says &quot;Columbus Tubing.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone familiar with a bike of this description?  I have some pictures if that would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14009" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T08:52:27.547" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T08:52:27.547" Title="Behring custom made bike" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25076" CreationDate="2014-10-07T21:56:08.100" Score="1" ViewCount="2955" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking into buying a road bike. I have been doing some research and I understand a little bit better about components. I was looking at the trek 1.1 but I saw a generic gravity liberty 1. It actually has better components than the trek 1.1. trek 1.1 claris. gravity liberty sora. Both have carbon fiber fork. the price is 419.95 for the generic and 800 for the trek one. What are most important components that I need to look into buying a road bike? Is a frame from a brand like Trek better than a frame from a brand like Gravity? .  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14010" LastEditorUserId="14010" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T13:41:43.300" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T20:41:45.753" Title="I want to start riding a road Bike. Is it a big difference if I buy a generic one?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-08T15:55:28.423" Score="2" ViewCount="3639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently experienced the failure of the carbon fork on my 2001 K2 Mod3 road bike at 20 miles per hour. Yes, I was injured. My question is the bonding agent that secures the carbon fiber fork to the aluminum fork as strong and durable as the carbon fiber or the aluminum. Also I have been told by a bicycle manufacturer that the workable lifespan of &quot;high performance bikes to be less than 10yrs, which seems to not agree with the article on lifespan of carbon fiber bikes that gives them an unlimited lifespan. I have some concern because I like to purchase my bikes slightly used thinking I can afford a much nicer bike. Example, I just purchased a Serotta Legend Ti with carbon forks &amp;amp; seat stays, hardly used for $3000 but am now somewhat nervous about material failure. Whats one to do to know if a bike is safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14017" LastEditorUserId="12634" LastEditDate="2014-10-18T22:09:27.677" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T16:03:16.043" Title="safety of carbon fiber bonded to aluminum fork crown" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;racing-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25050" CreationDate="2014-10-08T18:38:38.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber is a bit tougher to determine the safety of than steel or aluminum (where a thorough visual inspection normally reveals the serious flaws, along with checks of headset tightness and what not) - aside from a thorough visual inspection for cracks and damage all around, you really need a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8472/how-to-tell-if-a-carbon-frame-is-damaged-or-if-the-paint-just-has-stress-cracks&quot;&gt;professional evaluation.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-what-to-watch-for-when-buying-a-used-carbon-frame-23020/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bikeradar has some tips&lt;/a&gt; for inspecting carbon fiber bikes - key points are bonding areas and essentially places where stress builds up and making sure the bike hasn't been crashed before. There are plenty of guides on buying used bicycles online and safety checks to perform on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for lifetime, especially in the case of a high end carbon fiber bike, the lifetime is a function of how much it has been used. A crash can do a lot more damage to a high end carbon fiber bike than to a lower end steel/aluminum bike (due to likely higher speeds and weight savings). There was a previous question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1356/road-bike-carbon-fiber-frame-life-span&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which highlighted the lifetime of carbon fiber bikes (especially forks), which you should read. In particular, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2002/12/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-carbon-forks-2_3270&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; by Zinn is useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T18:38:38.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24933" CreationDate="2014-10-08T18:41:06.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take cycling seriously, the relationship that you have with your LBS is very important. Everyone at my LBS knows me and I know them. Having purchased many high-end bicycles over the past 20 years from two bike shops (depending on where I lived), I get first-rate customer service anytime I walk through the door. The owners, sales staff, and my favorite... the mechanics, know how I ride, what I appreciate in a bicycle, and what I expect from them. We click. Over the years, my LBS has suggested new bikes, frames, and components to me, based on their observations of what and how I like to ride, that kept my enthusiasm for cycling peaked. They have also called me anytime a factory recall affected me, my wife, or anyone I may have traded with. If at all possible I ride every day, and I arguably ride the best road bikes on the market because I swap, trade, and ride with other cyclists I met through my LBS. My LBS has also kept my 20 year old mountain bike purring through mud, rain, ice, and neglect. I love my LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14018" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T18:41:06.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25043" CreationDate="2014-10-08T18:44:58.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently George Behring used to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://stlbiking.com/forum/index.php/topic/5329-custom-frame-builders-in-stl/#entry33632&quot;&gt;a framebuilder in the St. Louis area&lt;/a&gt;, and was a racer and a member of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/StLouisCyclingClub&quot;&gt;Saint Louis Cycling Club&lt;/a&gt;. Unfortunately, like many small builders of the 1980s, there's very little information about him or his bikes on the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T18:44:58.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25050" CreationDate="2014-10-08T18:50:35.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do a thorough inspection of the bike and components, including a tear down.  I have only ever bought one bike used.  After I did, I tore it apart down to the frame and inspected everything.  I ended up replacing a wheel because of cracks around a spoke hole on that rig.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as mixed material forks, that is a pretty common practice.  I don't have any specific numbers to support this, but I haven't ever heard of the failure rates for such forks being different than all carbon forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as &quot;carbon&quot; is concerned, there is as much variation out there in the market as there is with anything.  Years ago, the first carbon frames were assumed to be a bit more disposable and mainly for the elite race crowd who were replacing their bikes every other year or so anyway.  There are currently companies making downhill race bikes from extremely thick and durable carbon that will take the same beating an aluminum frame would and last just as long.  I'd say a place to look is at the company's warranty.  Many companies are now offering lifetime frame warranties, even on their carbon frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T18:50:35.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24003" CreationDate="2014-10-09T12:34:28.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your front derailleur can be adjusted vertically to accommodate the 52tooth chainring, the drivetrain should run fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jumps between gears is not large so shifting would likely not be a problem but this will not be the quietest of drivetrains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14025" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T12:34:28.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25061" CreationDate="2014-10-09T12:51:41.880" Score="1" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a bit of cycling these days, as in nearly 50 km a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do a ring-route. And, there is a mild slope, safe enough to sprint on, and roughly 2 km long with at a worst-case 400 m line of sight visibility without any turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time I get there, I am a bit tired as I have to climb an ascent to get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I keep pedaling on such a slope or just sit, steer, control the cycle and then use the momentum in the later part to go another mile or two without much exertion, or should I pedal on the slope so that I can carry on with that momentum over a longer distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.: Usually I am not too tired to keep pedaling there. So, I can continue to pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8605" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T08:07:46.883" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T08:07:46.883" Title="Should one pedal over a mild slope?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-10-09T21:26:46.850" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24586" CreationDate="2014-10-09T13:33:35.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount a wheel will flex will vary greatly depending on front/rear, spoke count, rim material and rider weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pedalling force that drives the bike passes through the rear wheel, so it is not uncommon for carbon rear wheels to flex significantly when a stronger/heavier rider is climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an aluminium rimmed front wheel with spokes that are correctly tensioned and a rider not exceeding the weight limit for the wheel then several mm of flex are not normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14027" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T13:33:35.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25058" CreationDate="2014-10-09T13:42:17.093" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because wind resistance is proportional to velocity squared it takes more power to go from 30 to 32 than from 15 to 17.  So you get more bang from your pedal power at lower speeds.   If it is a relatively short downhill and you have considerable speed you are typically better off coasting and then pedal when you get to a flat or flatter section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you are better off exerting yourself on the lower speed ascent.  Then recover on the downhill.  It might be 2 minute recovery or 20 minute recovery.  If you notice racers typically go all out on the ascent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you went up the hill at 8 mph and down the hill at 13 mph compared to a constant 10 mph you would have about 5% more wind resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T21:03:49.063" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T21:03:49.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25058" CreationDate="2014-10-09T14:44:49.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it is beneficial to pedal hard just on the summit. Although tired from the ascent, pedaling hard for 10 seconds quickly brings one to the target speed. Then one can recover on the downhill (tucking in to reduce air drag).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing to do that leads to spending time in very low speed, waiting for gravity to accelerate the rider, and wasting many seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opinion based MTB riding and no references. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T14:44:49.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-09T15:50:17.463" Score="4" ViewCount="1152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only bought my bike for a month and a half and within this time span, my innertube actually burst 4 times. The bike itself is relatively cheap so I doubt that the tires are of good quality.&#xA;I am currently considering changing my tires to better ones so as to not waste money on tubes anymore, but do tires really lessen the chances of my innertubes bursting/puncturing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14031" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T05:57:00.583" Title="Do good tires lessen the chances of your innertube bursting?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25062" CreationDate="2014-10-09T16:07:54.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its extremely unlikely for an inner tube to just burst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are suffering from punctures.&#xA;There are two types of puncture; the first is an object penetrating the tire and inner tube, and the second is a 'pinch' puncture where an impact causes the inner tube to be pinched between the tire and rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many bikes (even expensive ones) come with poor quality tires as standard, and yes, changing them can make a big difference to penetration punctures.&#xA;No tire is 100% puncture proof, but something like a Schwalbe Marathon Plus is very close, but is heavy and can give a harsh ride.&#xA;Continental Gatorskins are favored by many as a good compromise between puncture resistance, rolling speed and comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pinch punctures are usually caused by hitting an object (such as a pothole) with too little pressure in the tire.  Adding more air to the tire (don't go over the maximum limit) usually prevents these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14027" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T16:07:54.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25062" CreationDate="2014-10-09T17:08:28.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the tube leaks out from under the wire bead it will burst. &#xA;If you had a cheap tire with a stretched bead that can happen. &#xA;If it is real easy to slide the tire on the rim that is a bad sign. &#xA;If that was how the burst happened then a new tire would help. &#xA;This can happen on even a good new tires if you over inflate too far. &#xA;If it bursts again the you need to look at the rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See hook bead on this page &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_tire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycle tire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T19:07:33.043" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T19:07:33.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25062" CreationDate="2014-10-09T17:18:32.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, absolutely. Spend an extra 20 dollars on good tires and you could save yourself 30 dollars worth of tubes. Plan on spending somewhere around 40 to 50 dollars a tire. Even if tubes were free, the money is worth saving the hours spent on the side of the road dealing with flats. Look for tires in the 'training' or 'commuting' category, for extra puncture protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should go without saying, take care to stay within the rated PSI of the tire when pumping it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/continental-gatorskin-700c-road-tire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/continental-gatorskin-700c-road-tire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T17:18:32.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24372" CreationDate="2014-10-09T22:20:05.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because wind resistance is proportional to velocity squared it takes more power to go from 30 to 32 than from 15 to 17. So you get more bang from your pedal power at lower speeds. If it is a relatively short downhill and you have considerable speed you are typically better off coasting and then pedal when you get to a flat or flatter section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are better off exerting yourself on the lower speed ascent. Then recover on the downhill. It might be 2 minute recovery or 20 minute recovery. If you notice racers typically go all out on the ascent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you went up the hill at 8 mph and down the hill at 13 mph compared to a constant 10 mph you would have about 5% more wind resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T22:20:05.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24372" CreationDate="2014-10-10T00:49:37.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea if it's efficient or powerful but I do know that ever since I was a kid right up until now it is pure FUN to pedal as fast as I can, get as much speed as I can, and then see how far it it carry me. Simple arithmetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T00:49:37.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25069" CreationDate="2014-10-10T07:20:05.053" Score="2" ViewCount="1399" Body="&lt;p&gt;can I use 26 X 1.75 for front and 26 X 2.0 for rear? the tube size is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike : Rockrider 5.0&#xA;Terrain : mostly Road, occasionally off-road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14040" LastEditorUserId="14040" LastEditDate="2014-10-10T07:37:09.050" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T07:56:25.440" Title="26 X 1.75 front and 26 X 2.0 rear tyre?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;26-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25068" CreationDate="2014-10-10T07:56:25.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeap- no reason not to. I do the same on my mountain bike, I prefer the width of the wider rear to enable stability/grip whilst the front is just wide enough to steer in the direction. Most inner tubes will work over quite a range of tyre sizes &amp;amp; the same for rims. Make sure you check the specification of both if you are concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T07:56:25.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20501" CreationDate="2014-10-10T08:06:29.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a contour roam 2 &amp;amp; found the on/off button brilliant, can use with any gloves. As my commute involves off road/on road, I only record the road elements. So although the battery lasts about 2/2.5hours, I can record almost an entire week (10hours) of rides on 1 battery/memory card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good tip: At the end of each bit of recording, I record my hand with 1/2/3/4 fingers to show how many incidents are within that clip. If it's zero, then I make a simple fist so when I could to review the footage, I don't spend hours watching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T08:06:29.563" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-10-10T08:06:29.563" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-10T12:48:51.200" Score="1" ViewCount="3198" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vW2ma.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;The bike I wanna buy has a 42/34/24 crankset and TX-50 FD, now I was wondering if I could install a 48t(or bigger if possible, do tell) ring upfront while keeping the rest (i.e transforming it to 48/34/24..). Is this possible ? What do I need to adjust ?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14044" LastEditorUserId="14044" LastEditDate="2014-10-10T14:33:30.010" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T05:56:49.637" Title="Can I change my large chainring without changing the entire crank?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25071" CreationDate="2014-10-10T12:57:45.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will probably not be able to &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; exchange the big ring, as that will probably require a new front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are quite some people around, complaining for too small front chainrings, when in reality the problem is their low cadence (&amp;lt;70). However, a 42t big chainring could indeed be a problem for road riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am familiar only with Schwalbe pricing, and they have Active compound (about 20BGN),  performance compound(40BGN+) and evolution compound (60BGN+). Point is, different rubber in the same tire can change the price several-fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: find a bike that is suitable for the way you ware going to be riding it. Replacing new components is more expensive, than buying the bike with those components in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T12:57:45.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25071" CreationDate="2014-10-10T14:13:43.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The TX-50 is a tourney level part (bottom of the barrel). If the bike is spec'd with a Tourney derailleur, it is most likely spec'd with a crankset which does not have replaceable chainrings, and you'd need to put on a new crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for chainring size, I'm not sure a TX-50 can take a 48t chainring (likely not - you'd have to look at the data sheet, which I also can't find), but most bikes which such a part would be mounted on would have problems with either chainline or actually getting the front derailleur up high enough to clear the chainrings for a 48t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your options for increasing speed generally on mountain bikes (or bikes with mountain-type groups on them) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Slick tires&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Locking out your fork/rigid fork&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) possibly a smaller cassette&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) (Most importantly) Bring up your cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to go faster on roads, look at a different (road) bike (possibly on the used market).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T14:13:43.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20501" CreationDate="2014-10-10T20:44:20.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rideye is coming out with a camera specifically designed as a bicycle black box:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rideye.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rideye.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your format:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: 15hr - 3. No weight listed - 4. $149US - 6. 1080p/170° - 7: :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not out yet, but at least spec-wise it seems like a winner. It's Kickstarted and a bit delayed, but I'm considering getting one when it's actually for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:44:20.823" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-10-10T20:44:20.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25044" CreationDate="2014-10-10T21:04:07.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both bicycles have similar components (the Gravity slightly nicer drivetrain, but with a cheapo looking seatpost, etc) and are manufactured in similar facilities in China or Taiwan. The Trek will be set up and fitted by your local bike shop, which will be very helpful if your local bike shop is competent (some aren't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Gravity will be set up &amp;amp; fitted by you unless you can find a bike shop to pay $50-$150 to do that work for you-- many won't want to do that work on a bike they haven't sold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend has a Gravity that she's used as a commuter for the past two years in addition to some touring &amp;amp; road rides, and it's done well— it's a perfectly competent cheap bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you yourself were skilled at working on bikes, or have a friend who's willing to help you fit &amp;amp; assemble your bike in exchange for some beers, you'll get a much better value out of the Gravity. But since it sounds like you're not in that situation, and it's fall when bikes go on sale, you'll probably do better buying a Trek/Giant/whatever from a good bike shop on clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="5702" LastEditDate="2014-12-18T20:41:45.753" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T20:41:45.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8131" CreationDate="2014-10-10T23:03:58.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tilting the saddle forward relieves lower back pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't take my word for it; here is a clinical trial in the British Journal of Sports Medicine:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://m.bjsm.bmj.com/content/33/6/398.short&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://m.bjsm.bmj.com/content/33/6/398.short&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They tilt the saddle forward a lot (10-15 degrees), and show big improvements in back pain. I had this problem and it worked for me. If you look at the spine position drawings it's pretty obvious why: tilting forward means your back doesn't have to round so much. Though 10-15 degrees is a bit extreme I think. 5-7 degrees was enough for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14050" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T23:03:58.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16460" CreationDate="2014-10-11T01:12:26.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Terry seat with the hole in the middle saved me when I rode across the US. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T01:12:26.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25080" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-11T04:39:36.627" Score="8" ViewCount="1979" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bike to work. It's about 3 miles. I live in Minnesota. It is getting cold. When it is like 40 and below I bundle up but I sweat  and then I am hot so I lose a layer and then freeze. Should I wear like a windbreaker or that under armor stuff? I get to work and my body can not tell if its freezing or sweating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14052" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T13:16:10.110" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T13:16:10.110" Title="How to dress for biking 3 miles to work in 40°F (3°C) and below so not to sweat to much but still keep warm" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25080" CreationDate="2014-10-11T10:13:54.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commute has always been about that distance, and when temperatures reach around freezing point, I simply wear a ski jacket which has ventilation shafts under the armpits. Opening these helps me a lot from sweating, and you can easily adjust them. Also thin (e.g. running) gloves can help: they break the cold wind, but allow you to transpire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, like in warm weather: don't rush too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7161" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T10:13:54.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25080" CreationDate="2014-10-11T11:08:59.153" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends a lot on you. I live in Illinois and I'll go out in a T-shirt and shorts in the 40's for bike rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want some additional warmth in the around 40F and 3 miles, I'd say maybe some thin gloves (I have a set of Underarmour coldgear running gloves which are useful for longer rides in the 30s) and a hoodie - you might be cold for the first 2-3 minutes but then you'll feel fine. If you find that a hoodie leaves you cold for the whole ride, maybe add a wind breaker with some ventilating holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you shouldn't dress enough to feel warm when you're getting on the bike. You'll generate some extra heat, so in most cases, the right amount of clothing will make you feel a bit cold for the first few minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ski jacket is way too much bundling for riding in 40 degree weather (given that its probably overkill for even just standing outside). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T11:08:59.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-11T11:18:03.500" Score="2" ViewCount="1420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to buy a bike wtih this crank, but I want to change the bigger ring. This is one of the lower end shimano cranks -- so I am worrying that the chainrings may not be replaceable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guys now I'll be needing a DIY way to change the rings cuz those gears are wayyyyyy to low for me. I need something, what about pulling off the bolts or something?.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14044" LastEditorUserId="14044" LastEditDate="2014-10-11T13:10:52.523" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T19:22:07.847" Title="Is it possible to change a Shimano FC131 crankset's chainrings?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25083" CreationDate="2014-10-11T12:25:51.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lowest Shimano level crankset with replacable chainrings is in the Acera group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, most replacement chainrings cost about as much as a Tourney (or even Acera) crankset, so it doesn't make much sense to replace the chainrings on those anyway.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the answer to your other question, theres a very good chance your bike won't be able to clear a 48t ring if it was originally spec'd with a 42t ring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T12:25:51.503" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25080" CreationDate="2014-10-11T15:32:33.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that at warmish cold temperatures like the 30s-40sF, the most important thing is to keep my hands and ears warm; the rest of my body takes care of itself after a few minutes of riding. (I am assuming your normal garb does not leave exposed skin other than hands and head/neck. If it does, well, fix that first.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a good pair of wind-stopping gloves; experiment with glove liners if the gloves aren't enough. A fleece earband keeps my ears and forehead warm and doesn't get in the way of my helmet, but if that's not enough or your nose complains, try a hoodie, stocking cap, or balaclava.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find that keeping the wind from stripping heat away is plenty enough for the rest of your body, in which case a standard rain jacket or nylon windstopper will do the job. If it doesn't, try a hoodie or put on a fleece vest or jacket under the rain jacket. (A water-resistant jacket with fleece lining is essentially this; Land's End carries such, among others.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other minor considerations: Sleeves that are snug at the wrist (e.g. stretchy knit cuffs or buttoned cuffs) keep the wind from sneaking up your forearm. Crew or longer socks do the same for your ankles and calves, or failing that, a cycling cuff-band.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T15:32:33.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-11T19:18:30.703" Score="1" ViewCount="1667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 6 months old Rockrider 5.2 mountain bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything was great until recently I noticed that the Rear Derailleur of my bike doesn't reach the highest gear cog, which is 8th. Its always stuck on 7th. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried opening the H-Limit screw completely and it even came off, but my chain doesn't still move to the highest cog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a beautiful Sunday morning ride planned in 6 hours from now. Can anybody help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13354" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T04:12:25.520" Title="SRAM X4 MTB Rear Derailleur H-Limit screw maximum open, but still on 7th Cog?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25087" CreationDate="2014-10-11T20:12:43.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to check is if your rear derailleur is bent. If that is not the case, check the cable tension is not too high. Is the shifter acting funny (like hard to shift)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this link to see how to do adjustments: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T20:12:43.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25087" CreationDate="2014-10-12T04:12:25.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll net to release the cable anchor on the derailleur. Place the shifter in the 8th position. Turn the cranks and the chain should shift the the highest gear. Reset the high limit screw. Pull the cable snug and tighten cable anchor. You will likely need to fine tune with the cable adjuster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T04:12:25.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8131" CreationDate="2014-10-12T04:24:50.333" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because I like it that way. Tried the tilted down position many years ago and have never had any reason to change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T04:24:50.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25071" CreationDate="2014-10-12T05:56:49.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bigger gear is useful only if you can actually use it. With the 42t &amp;amp; the smallest cog, pedaling at 90rpm, speed will be, approximately, between 24 &amp;amp; 26.5mph depending on the size of the cog. Can you spin the bigger gear, the 48t?&#xA;You need to know the specs for the front derailleur. The maximum chain-ring size the FD can handle will need to be at least 48t. A FD has a max range of teeth over which it can operate. This is the difference between the small chain-ring and the large chain-ring.&#xA;Assuming the chain is currently the correct length, you would need a longer chain. Otherwise, shifting to the large cog &amp;amp; large chain-ring could cause the chain to become stuck on this gear, damage, or even destroy the rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T05:56:49.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5052" CreationDate="2014-10-12T06:21:54.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Friction shifters have no clicks. If there's chain rub, simply move the shifter a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T06:21:54.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16460" CreationDate="2014-10-12T17:30:24.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done many tours on a Brooks B17 and it has been great. That said, I agree with a previous post that says use the saddle that is comfortable to &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you may not know is that many urban bike shops allow you to try a saddle on your own bike before you buy it. Many also have return policies on their saddles if you do buy it and bring it back in good condition. This is a great way to make a decision about non-leather saddles. Since leather saddles have a break in period before they feel great, they can be hard to judge so quickly. (Think about breaking in a baseball mitt or leather boots.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14062" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T17:30:24.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25101" CreationDate="2014-10-13T01:10:11.747" Score="1" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in an area with a lot of potholes and commute daily (between 10-20 miles depending) on a modern road bike. Today while coming in hard (18+mph) to a stop, I went over a worn paving layer with the front heavily loaded. I heard a loud CLACK, and my first thought was to look to the carbon fork. No cracks, but it got my mind on to my head set and head tube. (It was probably just the rear derailleur swinging out and coming down on the B screw.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the minimum mileage interval for headset tightening, and what are the symptoms that indicate it's time? (It's not covered in the Optimal Maintenance question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T16:24:31.917" Title="How often should the headset be tightened?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;headset&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18791" CreationDate="2014-10-13T01:13:55.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Daniel surmised, the issue was alignment of the rear derailleur hanger. Some creative bending by my LBS held me off for a while until I finally brought it too close to the hub on a hill and torqued the whole thing into a twisted mess. Swapping in a new derailleur of the exact same type (and new hanger) cured it completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8884" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T01:13:55.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25080" CreationDate="2014-10-13T02:57:18.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that &quot;soft shell&quot; garments work really well in that temperature range as long as it's not raining. Soft shell fabrics are jack of all trades. They are much more breathable than your typical nylon shell, they are more windproof than a microfleece and with a good DWR they are reasonably good at repelling light rain and snow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite fabric of this type is Schoeller Dryskin, but it's kind of pricy. Polartec Powershell also works pretty well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, you want to avoid anything that claims to be waterproof/breathable. Even the best versions of these kinds of fabrics are not breathable enough for moderate exercise. WB fabrics (i.e. goretex) have their use, but they are vastly oversold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T02:57:18.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25097" CreationDate="2014-10-13T11:27:29.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To check your headset, sit on the bike, lock the front brakes, and push forward/backward with your feet. If you can see any looseness in the headset it needs to be tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's so easy to check one should check a few times a year. But no real &quot;schedule&quot; is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen headsets that were remarkably loose.  Though looseness affects handling to a degree, most people don't notice the problem until (in the old threaded headsets) it gets so loose the ball bearings fall out.  Then the bearing grinds and makes handling difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T11:27:29.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25080" CreationDate="2014-10-13T12:16:06.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;5 degrees celsiusis is chilly and the main enemy is wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the areas of the body, that generate a excessive heat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;torso&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;head&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thigh&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the areas, mostly affected by wind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;palms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front part of the body: breasts, neck, face&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would wear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no backpack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;knee pads, thin gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wool shirt with long sleeves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;helmet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In colder weather (below freezing) I would add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wind breaker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;winter gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ski mask&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;long trousers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At below -20C I would add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ski jacket ;p&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T15:04:52.157" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T15:04:52.157" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25104" CreationDate="2014-10-13T14:13:37.240" Score="14" ViewCount="5310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.btwin.com/en/road-bikes/fitness-road-bikes/15078-btwin-fit-500-road-bike.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BTwin Fit 5&lt;/a&gt;, all stock, fresh from the distributor, Decathlon. Took it for light pacing at the store and things seemed OK. About 100 metres out the door, I shift up to the top end of the range, pedalling firmly but not hard, and it promptly throws the chain to the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Returning to the store, the mechanic puts the chain back on, adjusts the tension on the derailleurs and tells me not to use the top three or bottom two gears (i.e., the 3 highest resistance and two lowest resistance shift positions in the drive train's range), or the chain will throw again. I asked why, but unfortunately, I'm a foreigner and don't speak the local language well enough to understand any of his explanation. Please note I definitely did not misunderstand the bit about not using the gears; this was crystal clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wild speculations on what he may have said about the reasons for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain tension or play due to the lateral shift between the inner and outer gears of the front and rear cassettes when shifting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something about the derailleurs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, there's a substantial language barrier and I have zero confidence in my understanding of what he said about why I shouldn't use those gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not familiar with Decathlon, it's a sports department/box/super store. Definitely not a high end or dedicated bike shop. The house mechanic struck me as less than an expert, to put it gently. I've definitely read some reviews online griping about the inability of Decathlon staff to correctly set up the drive trains of new bikes. However, it's important to understand that this quality of expertise is representative of (or better than) that of every shop within an hour's travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This advice seems utterly mad to me&lt;/strong&gt;. What on earth could be the reasoning behind this? What can I do about it? Aside from the obvious of taking it to a better mechanic, as that presents substantial difficulty for me on a number of fronts. The bike shifts without a problem, including before the throw. I did test out every gear during my test ride. I haven't yet experimented with trying to reproduce the problem yet; I'll do so in the next few days most likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike has a Shimano Sora groupset and Shimano Deore shifters. I'm an experienced rider but no mechanic; I haven't done anything beyond basic maintenance myself. I can provide additional pictures and am game to make relatively minor adjustments, but even just clearly nailing down the issue would be considerably useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fuaye.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pqEc5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vZ8i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional pictures, shifted to big-big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4RCAT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ff1lM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CZ7MQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14067" LastEditorUserId="14067" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T02:23:20.467" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T11:07:38.370" Title="Mechanic says not to use top three/bottom two gears or the chain will throw" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25103" CreationDate="2014-10-13T14:33:30.777" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not using the upper and lower gears is a very effective solution. Stupid, but effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally one would simply use the limit screws (at the rear derailleur, often marked L(ow) and H(igh)). Shift to the lowest/highest gear (front and rear) and tighten the screw so that it only allows the mech to move ever so slightly over the edge of the largest/smallest sprocket (Having the screw too tight makes it hard to shift to the lowest/highest gear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More detailed and always a good read:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#rear&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#rear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T14:33:30.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25103" CreationDate="2014-10-13T15:01:09.930" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a double front, right? The usual advice is to not shift into the highest 3 gears in the rear cassette &lt;em&gt;when in front the chain is on the large chainring&lt;/em&gt;, and to not shift into the smallest 3 cogs, &lt;em&gt;when the chain in front is on the small chainring.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This prevents &lt;code&gt;cross-chaining&lt;/code&gt;, which wears the chain quickly, produces noise and difficult shifting. Furthermore, some derailleurs may not even support those extreme combinations, when the chain is crossed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, the chain should not be dropping in any gear combination, probably the limit screws should be touched a bit, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/25104/10856&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;linac&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; describes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-03-25T11:07:38.370" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T11:07:38.370" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25103" CreationDate="2014-10-13T15:46:04.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are all of those pictures in the same gear? Big in front and 4th in rear?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the picture of the derailleur it is pretty much maxed out giving chain length. &#xA;Notice it is swung way forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go small small it is the opposite.  The derailleur has to take up the maximum amount of chain - swing back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely your derailleur will not take the entire range so you have to stay away from big big and stay away from small small.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of opinions on cross chaining. &#xA;I agree with this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclechainrings.com/crosschaining.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cross chaining&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;I almost never to small to small but I will go big to big a lot as on the flats I only need it for a few strokes accelerating from a stop.  The small gears on the cassette tend to wear out first so I like to use the big gears when I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T20:16:06.083" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T20:16:06.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25110" CreationDate="2014-10-13T16:17:05.640" Score="6" ViewCount="4972" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do front fairings have an advantage for upright bicycles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NQBTz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NQBTz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example of upright hybrid &quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are fairings for recumbent bicycles such as this Zipper one:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cV1Fm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know if anybody has experienced increase in speed/reduction in air drag with a fairing [with an upright hybrid].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw the body of F40 bike(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lightningbikes.com/f40/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lightningbikes.com/f40/&lt;/a&gt;) and I was wondering if such an aero design exists for upright bikes and if doesn't, exist would making such a aero design for upright bike worthwhile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-01-21T21:07:20.617" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T04:18:51.067" Title="Fairings for an Upright Hybrid Bicycle?" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;recumbent&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25097" CreationDate="2014-10-13T16:24:31.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your headset has recently been replaced, then you should check its adjustment occasionally. Newly fitted bearing races can settle slightly into the head tube and the fork crown, particularly if you ride over a rough or bumpy surface. Adjust to be as loose as possible without any play or knocking when you do the check that Daniel R Hicks describes here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13892" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T16:24:31.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25108" CreationDate="2014-10-13T16:33:50.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well one of the main things is that a fairing is pretty inconvenient, say for locking up your bike (and may not be comfortable in a crash). Also, the advantages aren't very high for speed for most bikes, given that you're not moving so quickly -- the main advantage for most people would be that it acts like a larger front fender. But they are made, such as by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.windwrap.com/ub.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these people&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nm457.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/834759-aero-fairing-upright-bike-c-v-content-tba.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; which shows some more aero style fairings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go faster, get a more aggressive road bike rather than a hybrid and/or pedal faster. I doubt many riders could get a significant advantage from a fairing on an upright bicycle unless they were racing (and if they were racing, they wouldn't be on a hybrid anyway). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a velomobile or recumbent, the speeds you can reach are higher to begin with, and the locking problem is already big enough that it isn't too bad to add a fairing. You also have a less of a stability problem (say with crosswinds) than on an upright bike which makes the design somewhat simpler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T16:33:50.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25161" CreationDate="2014-10-13T18:52:37.203" Score="2" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Xtracycle hooptie rattles around when I go over bumpy roads when I don't have a passenger.   Does anyone have a suggestion on how to keep it from rattling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did move it to the most narrow position which helped but it still rattles around a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generic image of a Hooptie from xtracycle website&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7XtfR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7XtfR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12874" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-01-02T20:32:05.960" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T07:06:33.647" Title="Prevent xtracycle hooptie rattling noise" Tags="&lt;noise&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-13T19:06:18.770" Score="3" ViewCount="4771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a sorta light weight 54cm fixed gear (18 pounds) and I weigh about 115 pounds. I have a set of continental ultra tires for my 622/14mm (700x23) bianchi rims with standard 20-25 tubes. The thing is, i absolutely hate when my tires are soft or under inflated, but i dont want to ever over inflate my wheels and accidentally pop a tube. What can i do for the highest possible tire pressure yet prevent over inflation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14072" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T20:35:34.910" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T05:52:44.767" Title="Help! Tire Pressure" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25062" CreationDate="2014-10-13T19:12:40.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, better tires can help prevent punctures. It has already been mentioned that there are tires specifically made to enhance puncture resistance. One thing that has not been mentioned is that better tires also have &lt;em&gt;stronger sidewalls&lt;/em&gt; to offer more tire support when going over bumps and thus better protect against pinch flats. (Once, I had a cheap tire with flimsy sidewalls on my back wheel for use on a stationary trainer. I took it out on a road ride properly inflated and got a pinch flat on the first bump I hit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few tips whether you replace your tires or not: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep proper air pressure to avoid pinch flats (i.e., the tire&#xA;pinching the tube against the rim when hitting a pothole, curb,&#xA;etc) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are getting repeated flats, make sure nothing is&#xA;lodged in your tire. A piece of glass or wire that is stuck in the&#xA;tire will puncture every tube you install until you find and&#xA;remove it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid debris on the roadways. A lot of people ride in a straight path&#xA;over everything they encounter on the road (rocks, pebbles, broken&#xA;bottles). Steer around these things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep proper air pressure. I know I said that once already. It can't be said enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14071" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T19:12:40.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25103" CreationDate="2014-10-13T20:05:10.777" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What your mechanic said, is true for most drivetrains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there's absolutely no point in using extreme combinations, such as 1:8 or 3:1, as they are doubled by 2:somethings (first number meaning the front gear, second for rear gear).&#xA;All you need is all 2:x plus probably no more than 1:1, 1:2, 3:7 and 3:8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a ratio calculation I made for a 11-32 rear and 24-42 front cogsets. Colors depict identical or nearly identical ratios (red borders mark &quot;forbidden&quot; combinations&quot;): &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/7Dqzs8G.png&quot; alt=&quot;ratio table&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14073" LastEditorUserId="14073" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T20:23:20.877" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T20:23:20.877" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25112" CreationDate="2014-10-13T20:34:01.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the range on the tire.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are different rules of thumb but if you weight 115 you would be at or close to the smaller number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T20:34:01.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25112" CreationDate="2014-10-13T20:34:59.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I've said in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24624/suggested-tire-pressure-for-an-overloaded-bike/24626#24626&quot;&gt;other answers&lt;/a&gt;, the right tire pressure function of you and your bike and your terrain. You'll have to play with the tire pressure to balance the ride quality.Just because the tire says pressure x on the sidewall doesn't mean it makes any sense running the tire at that pressure since it might just give a bouncy ride which compromises your control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, your body will probably give out due to discomfort before you ride at the highest possible pressure the tube takes before bursting provided there is no damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a properly inflated tire, see (1) in the first image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/inflation_pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schwalbe&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/obA6x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) is what an underinflated tire is like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no doubt the Continental Ultra Sport tires can run at least 115 psi (I have run similar continental tires at pressures more than 120 psi, and I am significantly heavier than 115 pounds). However, the ride quality suffers, the tires become bouncy and so on. For someone at 115 pounds though, the &quot;optimal&quot; tire pressure will be significantly lower than 120 psi. Of course, experiment with pressures at your own risk -- the minimum and maximum tire pressures are what the legal department at the tire manufacturer thinks you can do, so it would be wise to head them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5546/what-road-bike-tire-pressure-is-best-for-speed&quot;&gt;related questions&lt;/a&gt; on Bicycles.SE - use the search function for others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T20:41:43.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25103" CreationDate="2014-10-13T22:09:27.707" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crossing chaining hasn't been any problem at all since the invention of bushless chains 20+ years ago and wasn't even a real problem back in the ancient days. It's a persistent myth that just won't die... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike should leave the shop capable of shifting into any combo of gears possible and riding any amount of time you like in that gear. At most I would accept a slight extra noise in the extreme combos(big/big and little/little), but those components were designed to work in all the gear combos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are mixing/matching components or running odd size gears, you might run into some problems with derailluer capacity, but any bike stock from the shop should be able to use all it's gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T22:09:27.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25103" CreationDate="2014-10-13T22:44:50.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Further to Blam's answer about the position of the pulley (which takes up the slack in the chain), my hybrid/touring bike was recently serviced by a very experienced French shop mechanic of racing bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He put on a chain which was too short (i.e. it pulled tight and jammed) if, when I rode it, I cross-chained it onto both big rings: and when I told him that (that that's what happened when I test-rode it) he said, &quot;You're not supposed to do that.&quot; He did replace it with a longer chain though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit surprised there's a Decathlon near you but no bike shop. Any bike clubs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T22:44:50.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-13T23:05:47.053" Score="1" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-au/bikes/model/seek.0/12043/57454/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seek 0 2013&lt;/a&gt; and recently the chain has been stretched so far that it needed to be replaced. On the Giant site it says that this is sold with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://kmcchain.us/chain/z51/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KMC Z51&lt;/a&gt; 1/2&quot; * 3/32&quot; chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've since gone to two different shops who have both sold what appears to be the same sized chain (1/2&quot; * 1/8&quot;) which isn't fitting, as it's too wide and brushes against the chainring guard. (This was dumb on my behalf and I have no defense for this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to still use these chains (perhaps by adjusting / removing the chainring guard) without any complications in the future or are these chains simply the wrong size and I need to go return them and get the right chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1189" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T09:00:43.080" Title="Chain too wide for gap between chainring and chainring guard" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24929" CreationDate="2014-10-14T00:21:17.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert by any means but I had the very same problem. I found that the forks were too tight. &#xA;I'm not sure what the design of your bike is but on mine there's a large nut at the top of the neck just where the handlebar stem goes in. &#xA;I loosened that a little and also the larger gripped fitting immediately below it which houses the ball bearings. &#xA;Be careful not to over loosen it. It should be just enough so that it rotates freely. A good check to see if you've over done it is to apply the front break and rock the bike back and forth. There should be no movement or clicking in the neck. &#xA;It might take a little trial and error but if you're anyway useful with a spanner you should manage it no problem. That said if it was me I'd bring it back to the shop and have them sort it as clearly it must have been their doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14076" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T00:21:17.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24929" CreationDate="2014-10-14T00:32:56.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it appeared immediately after a repair then the following probably isn't the right diagnosis, but the symptoms sound like &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Indexed Steering&quot; (&quot;Brinelling&quot;)&lt;/strong&gt; described on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T00:32:56.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25170" CreationDate="2014-10-14T01:54:45.280" Score="0" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a Trek Fuel SLR 90 and whenever I ride on flat dirt roads, the back gears randomly keep switching on me. It gets really annoying to ride Please help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14077" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T02:02:19.420" Title="Gears randomly switching" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25127" CreationDate="2014-10-14T03:30:45.020" Score="0" ViewCount="3603" Body="&lt;p&gt;A total newb, I busted the star fangled nut on my new road bike, while trying to tighten the headset. Generally speaking, how does a person know what size star-nut to use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, a quarter fits snugly inside the steerer tube while resting on the old star-nut, which indicates to me that I need the 1&quot; star nut. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14079" LastEditorUserId="14079" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T03:40:58.633" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T09:25:17.520" Title="Star Nut Replacement Size" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25119" CreationDate="2014-10-14T03:46:52.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the bike operates like a single speed and all the gearing is in the hub, you should be fine removing the chainguard. Be warned though if you cycle in trousers this increases the chance of losing your trouser leg to the bite of chain meeting chainring. You're also more likely to increase the chance of the dreaded chain grease tattoo on legs or trousers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T03:46:52.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25119" CreationDate="2014-10-14T09:00:43.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the Giant site it says that this is sold with a KMC Z51 1/2&quot; * 3/32&quot; chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it should have a 3/32&quot; chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've since gone to two different shops who have both sold what appears to be the same sized chain (1/2&quot; * 1/8&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/8&quot; = 4/32&quot;. That's more than 3/32&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;which isn't fitting, as it's too wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Funny that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/8&quot; chain isn't stronger unless you spend a lot of money on a high-spec track chain, which would have a more complex construction inside the rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a 3/32&quot; chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T09:00:43.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25123" CreationDate="2014-10-14T09:19:40.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure the external diameter of the steerer. This should be either 1&quot; (25.4mm) or 1 1/8&quot; (28.6mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not the sole determinant of star-nut size, as a variety of materials may be used for the steerer tube, each requiring a different wall thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your internal diameter is at least 24.26mm, this would mean a maximum wall thickness of 0.57mm for a 25.4mm external diameter, which is insufficient even for steel. With a 28.6mm external diameter, the wall thickness would be up to 2.16mm which suggests the steerer is made of some grade of Aluminium alloy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ask your local bike shop for &quot;a star nut for a 1 1/8&quot; alloy steerer&quot;, they should be able to supply an item that fits. The star nut will be about 26-27mm in diameter as it needs to embed itself in the steerer wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend fitting it yourself unless you have the proper tool; It is easy to misalign the nut and bend the tabs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastEditorUserId="7984" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T09:25:17.520" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T09:25:17.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25130" CreationDate="2014-10-14T09:43:37.760" Score="3" ViewCount="13174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Trek FX 7.4 last summer, and now, as the conditions are getting more and more slippery, I'm thinking of getting a bit more winter-y tires. The rims are tubeless, but I'm a bit confused of what kind of tires I can buy. Are all tires compatible with these tubeless rims? Do I need to fit an inner tube with some tires, or do all tires work &quot;tubeless&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11122" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T13:05:25.933" Title="What kind of tires I can use with tubeless rims?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25128" CreationDate="2014-10-14T11:47:16.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many tyres can be made to work without a tube, but tubeless tyres tend to work fine with tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bead of a tubeless tyre is smooth and moulded more accurately than non-tubeless tyres, to form a tighter seal with tubeless-compatible rims. You may be able to achieve tubeless running with a non-tubeless tyre, but it's likely you will need to use more sealant compound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tubeless systems use a standalone valve, others use a valve integrated into the rim strip. For &quot;ghetto tubeless&quot;, you can take an innertube from a smaller size and cut it to resemble the tubeless rim strips that have valves. (I've never done this, YMMV).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you don't mind getting messy with sealant, try it. If you fail, fit a tube!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T11:47:16.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25128" CreationDate="2014-10-14T12:31:55.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rims spec'd with a lot of new Trek bikes (including yours) are &quot;Tubeless ready&quot;. This means that you can run tubeless, but you can also run regular old tires with tubes (i.e. clinchers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary advantage of running a tubeless tire (which will be marked as tubeless) is that you can run a lower pressure without getting pinch flats, which is advantageous in the winter. However, you have to faff about with sealant (and the right valves, rim strips) to get this done [along with obviously buying the tubeless tire]. Note that if the seal fails, you should be carrying an inner tube (regardless of running a regular or tubeless tire) so you can throw it into the tire to get you home. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you run a regular tire (i.e. a clincher -- tubular tires are a specialty item for track racers, so don't get the terms confused), you should an inner tube in and install as normal. If you're running the tires that shipped with the 7.4 FX originally, you have a regular tire (which has a tube), so you just find another tire which is about the same size (probably something around 700x32), pop off the old one and pop on a new one. Regular tires are also a bit cheaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are people who run regular tires as tubeless (at their own risk - &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24032/homemade-tubeless-tires&quot;&gt;some tires take this, others don't&lt;/a&gt;). You can try this at your own risk, but for winter, I'd probably just go for a regular clincher tire with inner tube. The tires you can fit onto something like a 7.4 FX will be narrow enough that the lower pressure advantage of a tubeless tire will not really help you. Maybe a regular studded tire depending on where you are and what your road conditions are like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T13:05:25.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T14:03:26.827" Score="1" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any lighting suggestions for our Xtracycle &lt;a href=&quot;http://static.squarespace.com/static/52dc6837e4b01d8ef4e2ec0c/t/530d5cc0e4b046c4d2bcc0c1/1393384641747/Screen%20Shot%202014-02-25%20at%207.17.07%20PM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hooptie&lt;/a&gt;?  We'd like to keep it very visible (precious cargo in there) especially when viewed from the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXRzC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hooptie&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was thinking about an options such as these &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0061SJU88&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wrap&lt;/a&gt; around lights.  Though would prefer something that would make the bike look a little less like a Christmas tree :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JYD6k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12874" LastEditorUserId="12874" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T14:47:53.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T16:30:27.497" Title="Lighting for xtracycle hooptie" Tags="&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;taillight&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T14:59:40.593" Score="1" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had a rough off and many spokes in front and rear wheel are broken or badly damaged, so I'm just going to do a full spoke replacement.  Does anyone either have a set of Easton Haven Carbon 26&quot; that they could pluck the spokes on and give me pitches for drive side and non drive side for both front and rear wheels so I can work my way toward a full rebuild, or even better, knowledge of Easton's build process for these wheels from scratch.  Apparently this involves tensioning the drive side spokes first, then non drive to pull to center, then final truing, but what is the initial tension/pitch that the drive side spokes need to come to?  Thanks for checking out my question, hoping to get these rebuilt before the riding season peters out here in the NE, cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14085" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T14:59:40.593" Title="Rebuilding Easton Haven Carbon Wheels" Tags="&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25131" CreationDate="2014-10-14T15:14:05.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My main question is &quot;why is side visibility so important?&quot; If you're riding on a road and you have a good tail light and headlight, you shouldn't have side impacts unless you're running stop lights or stop signs or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are some options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/ScotchliteNA/Scotchlite/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scotchlite&lt;/a&gt; tape is a fantastic thing, though passive (but with a decent range of angles with visibility).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say use one of the multitude of tail lights, reflectors in your wheels, reflective sidewall tires, or one of the many side lighting systems that are now being sold may be useful. Do note that you shouldn't have enough lighting on the sides to be distracting (like those people in the second picture). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T15:14:05.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25131" CreationDate="2014-10-14T17:43:23.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not just a regular seat post rear light on that thick tubing pointed to the side? &#xA;You can also get small lights on the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T19:49:48.643" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T19:49:48.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25131" CreationDate="2014-10-14T19:55:34.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go to any reasonably well stocked bike shop (or the bike department of a large department store) they will have a fair assortment of bike lights and reflectors.  In particular there are a lot of different battery-powered LED flashers available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ieU9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mounting the light/reflector sometimes requires a bit of ingenuity, but you can often do pretty well using a cable clamp from a hardware store to attach to a rack or seat stay (if the light doesn't come with something suitable):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ukGt1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T19:55:34.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25131" CreationDate="2014-10-14T22:44:02.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try something like the fibre flare on either side of the rack &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gk7o5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fibre flare&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://fibreflare.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://fibreflare.com/&lt;/a&gt; and they also do a range of different colours for the side if you don't want to do red on the side of the rack. &lt;a href=&quot;http://fibreflare.com/collections/fibre-flare-side-light-colours&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://fibreflare.com/collections/fibre-flare-side-light-colours&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T22:44:02.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25139" CreationDate="2014-10-15T00:02:23.907" Score="5" ViewCount="7398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious about this, and I don't see this question anywhere on here, nor via Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if a double loop cable can stand up to wire cutters, because they don't seem like something a cable cutter couldn't defeat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm wrong, but before I lock my expensive bike up at a Walmart for some quick shopping, I'd like to at least know that someone's not going to come along with cable cutters and successfully take my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By double loop cable, I am referring to the cable that has a loop at each end, so as to be combined with a padlock or U-lock. The one I have is tiny, only measuring...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forgive my measuring tactics here, I am using a penny, which is approx. 19mm. The cable's &quot;cross-sectional diameter&quot; is about 1/5 of that, so I estimate the CSD of the cable is roughly 4mm. I'm skeptical on whether this cable is safe, whether this cable is standard-sized, and whether DL cables can even stand up to manual cutting tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any information provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13956" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T03:26:22.150" Title="Can a double loop cable stand up to cable cutters?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25137" CreationDate="2014-10-15T00:07:47.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you need a decently hefty one for some resistance. A 4mm diameter one should be pretty much trivial to cut through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/orGyT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which is about 10 mm in diameter is a bit better (in conjunction with a good U-lock or chain lock protecting the rear wheel+frame), but it also depends on how well the cable inside is constructed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smart thing to do is to carry around a good U-lock and lock the rear triangle of the bike with the rim to the rack, and secure the front wheel as well. Pitlock type skewers can be helpful too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see this youtube video: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/kXXB8MqTNsU?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T00:43:02.283" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T00:43:02.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25137" CreationDate="2014-10-15T00:18:03.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've cut a 10mm stranded cable using normal straight-jaw wire cutters in under a minute. 4mm I expect I'd cut in one go, in whatever time it took to put the side-cutters onto the cable plus a second. The 10mm cable I cut with sidecutters because that's the tool I had handy, so I just nibbled a bit of the plastic cover away and then cut one strand at a time using the very tip of the jaws. It was mildly tedious, and the leverage was all wrong for the first few. Once I'd cut about a third of the strands I could work two or three uncut strands into the jaws a bit more and cut them more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you point out, a stranded cable is trivial to cut with the right tool, and even a very heavy one (more than half an inch thick) can be cut with hand tools in a couple of seconds. Small versions of those cutters look like any other pair of pliers and a good set will cut most bicycle cable locks in seconds. A heavier set looks like bolt cutters and are usually rated to 3/4&quot; or 1&quot; cables. Or you can buy battery powered versions of those for more money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgtyY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cable cutting tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An armoured cable is harder to cut because there's steel segments surrounding it, and usually they're an inch or so in diameter specifically so you need a physically larger tool to cut them. But the segments can usually be crushed by a bolt-cutter style rope cutter and then the internal cable cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other obvious answer is a disk grinder. They're loud and obvious, but these days battery powered grinders are cheap and readily available. And they're quick - under a minute, likely under 10 seconds for most cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bike thieves will have one or more of these tools available, and the trouble with the pocket-able plier shaped ones is that they're very easy to carry just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T03:26:22.150" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T03:26:22.150" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25044" CreationDate="2014-10-15T01:20:30.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you dont have much experience with a bike setup and maintenance, then get a old-stock bike from a local shop. The amount of money you will pay extra will be equal to the money spent for putting the online-bought bike together. Also local dealer will be able to find you proper bike size - just because you are X inches tall, doesn't mean you should by Y-sized frame. Local dealer will be able to let you test ride different sizes and adjust the new bike to fit you the best. You can search YT for fitment videos. It's not an easy process and takes time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That Gravity bike seems like easy entry-level road bike. But it's limited - if you want to upgrade its components in future, you will have to change whole set, and that's major expense (ie. new Shimano 105 set will cost you $500 on ebay).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14087" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T01:20:30.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20903" CreationDate="2014-10-15T03:13:47.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OP notes: &lt;em&gt;&quot;Shop agreed that this part is defective, was happy to swap with another one. FWIW the guy there said he'd never seen another Miche bottom bracket with this issue. –  spacemanaki Mar 29 '14 at 21:56&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just tried a google image search to see what they look like because I'm not familiar with Miche. The pic isn't perfect, but does give an idea that the splines don't have a taper on them like yours. Glad you were able to sort it with your LBS.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ByB61.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T04:40:31.793" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T04:40:31.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-15T03:52:14.143" Score="1" ViewCount="1470" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is the first fixie bike I would have owned.  I am unsure if I want a freewheel one or not so I won't have to constantly pedal.  But I was wondering or seeking help for how I could build one by buying the bike piece by piece.  Any suggestions?  I was gonna buy one already made but a friend with a lot of experience with fixies said not to because they are cheap.  So some help please? Suggestions on parts to buy and other things? I would mainly use this bike in NYC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14088" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T13:27:35.023" Title="Trying to build first fixie?" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25142" CreationDate="2014-10-15T04:25:06.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're confusing a fixed gear with a single speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single speed bike can have a fixed gear (the cranks must (things the pedals are attached to) turn whenever the rear wheel turns), or a freewheel (you can coast, i.e. not have the cranks turn when the rear wheel turns). Luckily, a lot of fixed gear bikes have so called flip-flop hubs, where one side is fixed gear and the other side has a single speed freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a single speed freewheeling setup, you can take any frame, put on a single speed wheel and if it doesn't have horizontal dropouts (or eccentric hubs), attach a chain tensioner to it. For a fixed gear setup, you need horizontal dropouts or an eccentric hub since you'll snap a chain tensioner in a fixed gear setup while braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, the economical ways to do a fixed gear are starting with an old road bike (say 80s, which has horizontal dropouts) and putting a flip flop hub wheel or fixed gear wheel in, and adjusting the chainline, or buying a bike which is already fixed gear (or has a flip flop hub). Since fixies have become fashionable these days, the latter is usually the  easier option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building a bike from a frame and components is possible, but you need to check compatibility and sizing and everything on your own, which judging by the wording of the question, you do not have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend getting an already assembled single speed bike with a flip-flop hub. That way, if you find you don't like fixie-ness, you can flip the wheel and get a usable single speed with freewheel. You can also have two gear combinations (though a bit hard to switch between them given that you have to swap the wheel) this way. You can also probably walk into one of many bike shops in the NYC area and figure out a single speed which fits you well easily this way. I would also recommend having a front and rear brake installed on the bike, even if it is fixed gear only -- it may not look &quot;cool&quot;, but it can easily save your life in NYC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;links&lt;/a&gt; from Sheldon are essential reading, especially if you go the build your own route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T04:51:02.380" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T04:51:02.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-15T05:30:27.460" Score="1" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been an cycle enthusiast from my school days and I got a merida scultra 901 road bike recently.&#xA;However I am facing difficulties while I go over 60-70kms in a single go. Though i complete a 130km ride I end up getting a bad headache, neck pain and muscle cramps in my calf(when I rotate at high cadence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to counter attack the neck pain, I did get a 60mm stem but the issue though mitigated has not resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 175 cms in height and I own a 52 cm frame size. I ride about 40 kms on my hybrid everyday without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any info/guide for the above problems would be greatly helpful.&#xA;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14090" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T08:56:07.370" Title="Credibility of my Bike fit" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;bike-setup&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25112" CreationDate="2014-10-15T05:52:44.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule for the right pressure for a 700x23 size is 80-100 psi for a person weighing 60-75 KGS and 100 -130 psi for a person weighing above 75.&#xA;Please check your max tire pressure on the tire and fix up with a tire pressure as mentioned above.&#xA;P.S: Also make sure the tube is in the right position between the rims.. Else you might end up with a snake bite flat.!&#xA;Hope you enjoy the ride:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14090" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T05:52:44.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25144" CreationDate="2014-10-15T05:54:30.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest your frame may be a bit small for you. I'm slightly shorter than you and I have a Scultura 906 in a 54 cm frame (size on the frame sticker says S/M). The longer stem may assist, however it may put you in a more race position which could lead to the neck pain. As for the calf cramps this could be a couple of things; 1) seat height too low, 2) lack of magnesium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check the seat height, hop on the bike and put the pedals at 12/6 o'clock. Rest your heel on the 6 o'clock pedal. If your leg is fully extended your saddle height is probably correct. If your knee has a bend then I'd suggest raising the saddle height until the bend is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the magnesium, that comes down to trial and error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the neck pain, I'd suggest seeing if you can lift the stem (if your fork steerer is long enough) or maybe flip the stem to give yourself a little more height at the front of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, when doing a longer ride, make sure you're staying hydrated, as that is the only thing that causes me headaches when I ride a long distance. Too much heat, and not enough fluids. Let us know how you get on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="10751" LastEditDate="2014-10-16T08:56:07.370" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T08:56:07.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25062" CreationDate="2014-10-15T05:57:00.583" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the term bursting &quot;Inner tube bursting&quot; is not caused by the tire but is caused by over inflating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please get a good quality rubber tube(rubber doesn't change its color when tube is inflated )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah and also a combination of a good tube and tires significantly reduces the risk of flats(especially on a road bike) -I have got a set of tire liners and an extra layer of rim tapes as a precaution and until date it seems to be going great!! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14090" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T05:57:00.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23425" CreationDate="2014-10-15T09:45:59.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not too familiar with handcycles, however you can get some really good electric assist bikes these days. Not sure what the situation is with your knee, however if you are able to pedal to some degree this might be the thing to help you where your knees would typically feel the strain like on the hills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently considering a dutch cargo bike with electric assist, as the hills around my place are too much to manage 20kg bike, plus to toddlers and a bunch of groceries. From my limited research they'd get you about 15-20 miles at about 18mph, so not the full century, however it might be enough to let you do the recreational ride&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T09:45:59.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25150" CreationDate="2014-10-15T10:02:03.460" Score="2" ViewCount="1577" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got a pair of tubular &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/vittoria-rally-tubular-tyre/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vittoria Rally&lt;/a&gt; road tyres. They look perfect but the problem is that the valve is 42mm which is no good for my new awesome 50mm rims. Above all the valve core is not removable so the extenders I've got with them are useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is if there's any mean to extend the valves up to 60-80mm in this situation or should I return it back to the shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance for your advised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T10:34:21.917" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T12:34:59.977" Title="Non Removable Presta Extension" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25149" CreationDate="2014-10-15T10:11:21.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple types of valve extension:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extenders you have relocate the valve core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other kind are a plain tube which tapers with a similar profile to a normal valve, and screws onto the valve, over the existing valve core. Once the tyre is inflated you can remove the extension and tighten the valve-lock-nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T10:11:21.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24850" CreationDate="2014-10-15T10:27:14.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that you've cross threaded the lock ring, although you should notice this within the first few turns. To prevent it coming loose again though you could try some loctite on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T10:27:14.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25149" CreationDate="2014-10-15T10:30:30.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest, the simplest thing is going to be getting tubes with the correct valve length for your rims. If your LBS won't do the exchange put it down to a lesson in what length valves you need for your flash 50mm rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T10:30:30.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23425" CreationDate="2014-10-15T10:37:25.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Feel free to edit this answer to add more resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand cycling is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paralympic.org/cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Paralympic sport&lt;/a&gt;, administered by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/para-cycling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UCI&lt;/a&gt;. There are links at the bottom of the UCI page for all world regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.disabledsportsusa.org/handcycling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Disabled Sports USA&lt;/a&gt;, describing different kinds of bikes and listing local chapters and a bunch of useful links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ushf.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;United States Handcycle Federation&lt;/a&gt; seems to be mainly about competition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling Australia has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycling.org.au/Para-Cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Para-Cycling page&lt;/a&gt;, there is the Queensland &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportingwheelies.org.au/our-services/sport/sports-a-z/cyclinghandcycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sporting Wheelies and Disabled Association&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://wsnsw.org.au/sports/handcycling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wheelchair Sport NSW&lt;/a&gt;. I'm sure there are bodies in each state, but a quick search didn't locate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T10:37:25.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25149" CreationDate="2014-10-15T10:59:12.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run Conti Race28 tubes (but with clinchers) on my deep rims. These tubes have removable cores so I have no problems fitting an extender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this doesn't solve your current problem, but I'm sure there must be compatible tubs out there that will work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T10:59:12.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25149" CreationDate="2014-10-15T12:34:59.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also would recommend finding tubes with valves of the correct length. However, if that fails, I've had success using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00DW444C6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;presta to schrader adapter&lt;/a&gt;.  Often with shorter valves, there won't be enough room to attach a pump head, but there will be enough to attach an adapter, which you can then use a pump that works with schrader valves. Most pumps have the ability to do both now. I'm not sure if this will work in your situation, since you say you have 50mm rims and 42mm valves which to me would mean that there would be no part of the valve protruding from the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T12:34:59.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25157" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-15T13:07:23.890" Score="3" ViewCount="3128" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a Fat Bike which is fitted with 26x4.6&quot; tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am worried about puncturing on trails in the South African bush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be done to mitigate this risk of puncture as tire liners and puncture resistant tires do not seem to be readily available for fat bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14096" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T16:47:12.517" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T16:32:26.640" Title="Fat Tyre Punctures" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;fatbike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25142" CreationDate="2014-10-15T13:27:35.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like all bikes,  single speed and fixie bikes come in all differing qualities, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Thruster-700C-Men-s-Fixie-Bike-Black-Red/23810254&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cheap&lt;/a&gt;, to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.masibikes.com/bikes/fixed/fixed-uno-drop-2015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reasonable&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sevencycles.com/bikes/airheart-s.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;expensive&lt;/a&gt;. I think the only advantage if building one yourself is that you could save a lot of money on the frame and spend more on things like rims, hubs, and other components that will give you much more bang for your buck. That's not to estimate the importance of a good frame, but it's often possible to find an old steel frame in good condition, put some good wheels on there, and get a really good ride without spending a whole lot of money. If the frame and forks are already assembled, and you buy a pre-built wheelset, assembling a fixed gear or single speed bicycle can be done quite easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T13:27:35.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6255" CreationDate="2014-10-15T16:27:54.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycling on the sidewalk is dangerous.  It's a sideWALK.  I recently was hit by a bicycle as I was making a right turn from one street to another.  I slowed for my turn, checked the crosswalk areas for pedestrians, and started turning in only to hear the screech of a bike tire until it hit my passenger door.  Again... crossWALK. Which you're supposed to walk across.  I don't know how fast she was going on the sidewalk to make a skidmark almost 20 feet long, but I don't feel any responsibility for this accident.  However, the police highly recommended I just deal with my insurance to repair the car.  And who gets to pay the deductible?  Me?  I shell out $500 because someone else is irresponsible?  It's a misdemeanor here to ride a bike on the sidewalk, but he seemed to be leaning a bit toward calling her a pedestrian in a crosswalk, as if he was threatening me with a ticket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who among all of you check for traffic on the sidewalk as you turn to see if there is something going faster than you are?   In other words, do you always look BEHIND your vehicle on the sidewalk before turning?  I pass bicyclists all the time on the road, and if I'm turning in to a driveway or road not far ahead of them, I'll slow down and pull in behind them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a cyclist at times also, so don't think I'm bashing on cyclists.  Sure, I get annoyed by the pack of cyclists on the narrow back road going 20 in a 45 zone, but I take the time to safely pass them.  I watch for them on the road and give ample room.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, &quot;In general you should stay off of sidewalks unless you're progressing a the pace of a 5-year-old on training wheels.&quot;  Or better yet, slower than that. The pace of a brisk walker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14097" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T16:27:54.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25162" CreationDate="2014-10-15T19:09:09.827" Score="0" ViewCount="1938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 29&quot; LaPierre Hardtail. What is the difference between 29&quot; wheels and smaller ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know this not only for single trails but also on the road and / or downhill trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14098" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T20:03:02.650" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T20:03:02.650" Title="Pros and Cons of 29 &quot;wheels" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-10-15T23:17:45.640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25111" CreationDate="2014-10-15T19:19:04.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have several options, and not one is going to be the correct one, so wiki it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use old inner tube inside the mounting clamps.  Looks like there is some standard U-shape pipe clamps on the underside?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grease the side rails where they slide into the main body.  I would do this anyways because getting those ball bearing latches apart later is a pain.  It may reduce the metal to metal contact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black electrical tape on the side rails.  Related to #2, if you stretch the black tape enough, it may get thin enough to wrap around the ends and insert them into the main body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bar tape.  Somebody else suggested this, but wrap the whole top with bar tape.  You won't be able to take the sides off after (unless you do something else), but at least your kids won't complain about the cold, wet metal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T19:19:04.670" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-10-15T19:19:04.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25160" CreationDate="2014-10-15T19:31:00.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much been done to death with evangelistic enthusiasm on many forums. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller wheels - more agile and responsive, lighter/stronger, easier to control&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger Wheels - roll better over small obstacles therefore considered faster in straight lines, lower tire pressures (due bigger tire) provide more traction off paved roads. Slower to accelerate (debatable how much the difference really is) due more rolling weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't for 650's - between 26&quot; and 29&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I grew up on 26&quot;, and switched to 29er a few years ago, my wife recently got a 650B. On the road the 29er is better, on tight, technical (i.e. have to slow down significantly into corners then accelerate) the 26&quot; has it all over the 29'er in every way. My current preference is my wife's 650B as it suits my current riding best, but bike geometry probably plays as big a part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You height will play a part - I would not recommend a 29er for someone under about 165cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T19:31:00.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25157" CreationDate="2014-10-15T20:23:07.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though not supported by specialized, your best option is to probably setup your wheels tubeless with tire sealant. Keep an extra bottle of sealant with you just in case you have trouble on the trail and need a refresh, but keep a tube handy if that fails as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some folks have had good luck by injecting some tube sealant (like slime) inside their inner tubes as a preventative measure as well. You might get a few punctures, but they can seal up with this method. You'll probably want to have a pump handy as you may still loose a bit of air from time to time.  Some folks have had good luck using tubeless sealant in place of tube sealant, but YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also read a some discussions about possibly building your own tire liners from several layers of TYVEK shipping envelopes taped together, but have not really heard much talk to how effective that is in practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T20:23:07.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24174" CreationDate="2014-10-15T21:58:16.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;GCN do some great how to videos and will possibly be a good resource for you in your general overhaul of the bike. Here is one specific to you need for this post &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/Zg36uCGg5Lk?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T21:58:16.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-16T06:19:46.867" Score="1" ViewCount="5390" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is in the context of having just been involved in a near miss with the car. And only applies at traffic lights whereby the car is stationary very soon after the near miss. So, generally the near miss is to do with the car pulling across a cycle lane shortly before a set of traffic lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If their window is open it's easy to speak to the driver in order to elicit a response to &quot;Do you know you nearly just hit me?&quot;. If their window is closed it's more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knocking on the window is one option, and if that's ignored I've been tempted before now to simply open the door. Simply to prevent them from driving away before I've made them aware of their mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is: is it legal, &lt;strong&gt;in the UK&lt;/strong&gt;, to do so? The question of whether or not it's sensible to do so is one for another time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-10-16T09:11:53.627" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T21:48:23.220" Title="Legality of opening someone else's car door?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;uk&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-16T06:51:29.313" Score="1" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having neck pains and muscle cramps when I go for long rides (&gt; 90kms) . I don't know if the reason is due to big kms or is it the fit of the bike.&#xA;I live in India where a bike fit costs 12000 INR($195).&#xA;Do you suggest me to get a bike fit compulsorily ??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14090" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T21:08:30.113" Title="Is bike fit really needed?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;bike-setup&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25166" CreationDate="2014-10-16T07:19:58.073" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you opened someone's car door you could be committing either &lt;strong&gt;Dangerous cycling&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Careless, and inconsiderate, cycling&lt;/strong&gt;. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1988/52/part/I/crossheading/cycling-offences-and-cycle-racing&quot;&gt;Road Traffic Act 1988&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the offence of &lt;strong&gt;Assault&lt;/strong&gt; to consider. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cps.gov.uk/legal/l_to_o/offences_against_the_person/#a07&quot;&gt;CPS guidelines&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An assault is committed when a person intentionally or recklessly causes another to apprehend the immediate infliction of unlawful force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the legality question, it's probably worth pointing out that many cars automatically lock the doors once the car starts moving and don't unlock them until the engine is switched off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T07:19:58.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25157" CreationDate="2014-10-16T08:58:06.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A large carcass under low pressure is flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the unusually large contact patch, the pressure your weight applies to the ground is low&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low contact pressure + flexible carcass =&gt; reduced risk of penetration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any fatbikers running liners, but many do do tubeless to reduce rotating weight and lose the rolling resistance created by friction between the tube and tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T08:58:06.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25122" CreationDate="2014-10-16T09:24:33.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its just up and down one gear then you probably need to calibrate the derailleur cage a little using the barrel adjusters. Depending on the make of shifter and derailleur there will be a barrel adjuster on one or both ends of the cable outer which will allow you to make micro-adjustments to the cage position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jockey wheel centre should be roughly aligned with the center of the cassette cog. What you might find is that the jockey wheel is slightly left or right of the cog at a given shift position (the one that is jumping) so use the barrel adjuster to eyeball the wheel to line up with the cog. It shouldn't take more than a few turns to do this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if the barrel adjuster is fully extended or screwed in, you may have to release the cable at the derailleur end and move it in/out to give you some adjustment room before reattaching the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand if you are getting more than one shift up or down something is seriously wrong and you may have to replace parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4383" LastEditorUserId="4383" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T02:02:19.420" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T02:02:19.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21003" CreationDate="2014-10-16T10:49:16.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a direct drive (geared) recumbent mostly according to Garnet's specifications. The centerpiece is a Pinion gearbox that conviniently has a lot of gears (needed for a recumbent) and an internal freewheel (Pinion still recommend an &quot;extra&quot; freewheel in the backwheel for normal bikes - probably because the chain otherwise would keep turning when coasting...).&#xA;The gears 8 to 18 is usable and the speed with nr 18 can easily be over 50 km/h. The riding position is so comfortable I really cant understand why the design hasnt conquered the World. Riding slow in Town is not a problem, no wobbling at high speeds, no numb feet, because of to high crank position. Pinion has seen it but they are busy with the market introduction of their normal bikes. It´s not for sale. Theres a Little film my son put on instagram #hubcycle.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/31LBj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14102" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T10:49:16.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25157" CreationDate="2014-10-16T16:26:50.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two answers suggest tubeless but I am not aware of any tubeless fat rims or tubeless conversion kits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good video on a DIY fat tubeless conversion&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclesinlife.com/tubeless-fatbike-conversion-update/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And lots of sealant as you have a lot of rubber to cover  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or Slimed tubes as I suggested in a comment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are riding sand and need the flotation I would go regular true tubeless.  You can get regular tires up to 2.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-16T16:32:26.640" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T16:32:26.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25122" CreationDate="2014-10-16T16:43:56.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be a lot of things.  I had an Ultegra in good shape that was jumping around.  It was two problems.  1) The cable was a bit frawed at the shifter.  2) I did not have the cassette tight enough - torque to specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T16:43:56.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25166" CreationDate="2014-10-16T17:18:20.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds dangerous to me on two fronts. First of all, you don't know who you're encountering and how you will be received. It really could go south if the person is at all hostile or has had a lousy day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, to be on your bike and attempt to open a door, even if your feet are on the ground sounds foolhardy. The car starts to move and you are down! Road rash at very best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, I can't imagine that it's at all legal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T17:18:20.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15371" CreationDate="2014-10-16T21:37:48.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I'm late on this thread but try sliding your saddle backwards and not forwards. Likely too far forwards over your bottom bracket and is causing your pelvis to pull forwards. If you have your pelvis further back the pressure from just your pedaling alone will help to keep you seated further back on the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14112" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T21:37:48.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25166" CreationDate="2014-10-16T21:48:23.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not too sure whether it is legal or not, however in Australia this kind of incident of careless road use is why cyclists are wearing cameras more and more. I recently got myself a Fly6 camera and have had several near misses since I've had it. Personally I'd knock on the window harder and harder until it opens. They're a laminated glass so it is VERY unlikely that you'll ever smash the window with your knocking; however it will cause the driver to worry about it smashing if they don't open it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safe riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T21:48:23.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25184" CreationDate="2014-10-17T09:12:25.033" Score="1" ViewCount="10275" Body="&lt;p&gt;My pedal just unscrew. It has a hexagon-headed screw with '10.9' screw label. Anybody knows what size of wrench I need for this screw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14118" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T02:11:15.207" Title="Need to know the wrench size for 10.9 screw" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25183" CreationDate="2014-10-17T10:38:16.800" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;10.9 is the type of steel alloy used, not the size of the hex key (aka allen key) you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a set of hex keys (almost surely a metric set is needed, given that its on a bicycle) and then try them out to see which one fits. I'd guess its something in a 3mm, 4mm, 5mm or 6mm range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T10:38:16.800" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-17T19:49:14.347" Score="-1" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on buying this bike online and making it, well y'know, mine. And to do this, I would like to make it look like an Aristotle bike. So I'm basically am going to need new rims to start and a bunch of other stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem I've confronted is the bike fork. I want to change it but I don't know where to start in choosing one. Plus I would like to change the handlebars but I can't figure out the name of the style.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjBy9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;^^^ Here's the bike I plan on renovating... ^^^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6fsz8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;^^^ ...and here's an idea of what I'd like it to look like at the end of its &amp;quot;makeover&amp;quot;... ^^^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14122" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T23:03:19.147" Title="I need help planning my bike renovation!" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25189" CreationDate="2014-10-17T22:11:48.000" Score="0" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have raced TT's locally for a couple of years and have decided to (finally) get aerobars and am tuning the bike to fit, however, my seat at it's max tilt downwards is probably 1 degree up (see photo for how seat rises at tip.) this isn't an issue for normal road riding, but for tt and tri position it is uncomfortable and unsustainable for 30 mins. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jr3PY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;here is a similar image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is a similar seat image &lt;strong&gt;(not my actual seat)&lt;/strong&gt;. I was wondering if I should add some padding over the tip (i normally shuffle forwards on the seat even though its as far forward on the rails as possible) or if i should get a new TT specific saddle (will this be ok for road riding?). Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s. im a newbie to bike stack exchange, so critique me if you want to :), cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is a similar seat post to my actual one&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/41uDi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14123" LastEditorUserId="14123" LastEditDate="2014-10-18T18:31:02.737" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T18:31:02.737" Title="Specialized Phenom seat for TT" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25188" CreationDate="2014-10-17T22:50:58.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from getting a TT specific bike, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Get a new seatpost which allows for more saddle adjustment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Get a new saddle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are probably your options best options. I don't think the padding will help. When you added aero bars, you changed the riding geometry, and pretty much aside from swapping out stems/bars and tweaking heights there, your only other option is a new saddle and/or seatpost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the padding is a good idea, given that you shouldn't be sitting on that part of the saddle anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T22:50:58.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25187" CreationDate="2014-10-17T23:03:19.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the time you get the bike looking similar to the latter, you'd be better off buying the latter. The fork controls part of the geometry and changing the fork will make it different. Also, you need access to tools for replacing the fork (lets leave aside the different types of headsets for now, since that is part of the aesthetic). Then, you need to buy a flat bar instead of the swept back bars you have now. This is trivial to replace. You can use the existing brake levers, but if you want to match style, you can buy some new modern levers for pretty cheap. A new saddle isn't too expensive, i suppose either. The new wheels alone will probably run you over 200 dollars anyway since they're hipster-y. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like these Aristotle bicycles retail for around 400 dollars. Given that a new fork is probably going to run at least 50-60 dollars, a new wheelset 200 dollars, a new riser bar 20 dollars, saddle probably 30-40 bucks, you're going to run probably more than the new bike costs. Thats also excluding the time + tools you may need to buy/borrow + paint and the bicycle you want to &quot;restore&quot; (plus, some hipster would likely find that bike attractive as it is). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And given that that bike looks like its not in America, note that these fixed/single speed bikes with flip flop hubs which look like the Aristotle bike are pretty damn common now among the hipsters - it shouldn't be hard to find a new one under the price of doing this conversion in Europe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T23:03:19.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15371" CreationDate="2014-10-18T05:59:45.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested in other answers your saddle angle may be key.  I don't know what your experience with Brooks saddles has been, but the set up tends to differ a little from more modern saddles, especially if you wear modern cycling clothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brook saddles tend to work like a sling and depending on how well you have broken your saddle in and the tension you have on your saddle you may find yourself sliding forward even when the saddle is perfectly level. If you haven't nailed your setup synthetic clothing may highlight this fact making it easier for you to slide forward.  By comparison modern saddles often have textures that grip synthetics which may help offset any inaccuracies in setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem is relatively easy to solve. On many models of Brooks I found that you generally need to keep the nose up ever so slightly higher than the back to keep your position.  Because the saddles act like a sling you can can have the nose higher than more modern saddles without sacrificing comfort.  Once I have the put the Brooks slightly nose up I found I remained firmly in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do try this, make sure to take your time with small incremental adjustments.  Setting the nose too high will eventually cause discomfort.  Depending on how extreme you this may only show up on longer rides.  So start for with a small change ride it for a while to see if it works for you, then adjust as apporpriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found that as the saddle warms up I sink into the saddle a bit and find that it acts like a shelf for my sit bones, keeping me in place. I currently have my Brooks (Professional) set up such that I just creep forward at the start of the ride (when the leather is cold), but after a few minutes the leather warms up, becomes more compliant and I settle into position.  After that point I don't slide forward for the remainder of the ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't give up on your Brooks yet! I have never found a modern saddle that equals a Brooks in comfort on all day rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T05:59:45.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21003" CreationDate="2014-10-18T10:11:56.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will await the recumbent version of MC2 bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/MC2bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.facebook.com/MC2bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been in contact with them. They are launching in Jan '05 and the recumbent form will be available in a subsequent version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8135" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T10:11:56.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-18T16:29:14.800" Score="5" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17202/how-can-i-merge-two-gpx-files-into-one&quot;&gt;How can I merge two GPX files into one?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the above link but my gpx files do not seem to have this in them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Copy all the stuff between Open the second GPX file in a text editor. Copy all the stuff between &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;trk&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;/trk&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; inclusive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I exported my ViewRanger file and saved the gpx file then opened in Windows Notepad. There is no &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;trk&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;/trk&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first line of the file, opened in Notepad is:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;?xml version=&quot;1.0&quot; encoding=&quot;UTF-8&quot;?&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;gpx xmlns=&quot;http://www.topografix.com/GPX/1/0&quot; version=&quot;1.0&quot; creator=&quot;ViewRanger - http://www.viewranger.com&quot; xmlns:xsi=&quot;http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance&quot; &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this dropbox link for one of the files:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/g7i5afte16zel6n/End%20to%20End%20-%20Day%201%20-%20Lands%20Ends%20to%20St%20Just.gpx?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/g7i5afte16zel6n/End%20to%20End%20-%20Day%201%20-%20Lands%20Ends%20to%20St%20Just.gpx?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to merge 18 files (Lands End to John O Groats)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T17:42:13.427" Title="Merge gpx files" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25198" CreationDate="2014-10-19T05:13:10.670" Score="6" ViewCount="15763" Body="&lt;p&gt;where does the 700 come from and what does the C stand for in 700c?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14133" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T07:04:18.790" Title="Why are tires that fit 622mm wheels called 700C" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2014-10-19T16:30:37.637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25196" CreationDate="2014-10-19T07:04:18.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17273/how-do-i-determine-my-wheel-size&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://centurycycles.com/tips/tech-talk-know-your-tire-size-pg1275.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;, the idea was originally that there were 700A,700B,700C tires+wheels which all had an outer diameter of 700 mm with A tires being the thinnest and C tires being the thickest (so A had the largest rim and C had the smallest rim). Eventually, the C variant won out, and people varied the outer diameter by mounting different tire sizes on a 700C rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T07:04:18.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13907" CreationDate="2014-10-19T07:08:08.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can essentially inflate the tube out as much as you want until it pops. If you over inflate it before mounting it, it wont fit. Try using less air. Generally, also, tubes are marked for a certain size of tires, so try to match that too (if the tube is too big of a size, you may have it fold over itself, while if its too small the tube may be effectively a bit thinner than you like, but there is some tolerance in this - one or two sizes either way from the tire probably won't make a difference provided you're using the right diameter and both the tire and tube are sold as fractions or decimals). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T07:08:08.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-19T08:55:19.157" Score="0" ViewCount="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying too reply to my question on merging routes/tracks but there is no reply button??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;see this dropbox link fo rone of the files:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/g7i5afte16zel6n/End%20to%20End%20-%20Day%201%20-%20Lands%20Ends%20to%20St%20Just.gpx?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/g7i5afte16zel6n/End%20to%20End%20-%20Day%201%20-%20Lands%20Ends%20to%20St%20Just.gpx?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14128" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T08:55:19.157" Title="How do I reply to a question?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-10-20T01:41:58.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25194" CreationDate="2014-10-19T09:45:59.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the dropbox file it appears to contain a &lt;strong&gt;route&lt;/strong&gt;, rather than a &lt;strong&gt;track&lt;/strong&gt;. I suspect something went wrong when you exported the file. If there are options on what to export, then you want to export the &lt;strong&gt;track&lt;/strong&gt; rather than the route or waypoints or anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GPS_Exchange_Format&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on GPX&lt;/a&gt; has more details on GPX files which might help..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T09:45:59.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25194" CreationDate="2014-10-19T09:49:38.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, Looking at the data you posted, you can see &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&amp;lt;rte&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&amp;lt;/rte&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tags enclose the whole &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GPS_Exchange_Format&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GPX Route&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the  tag comes the name. You can put what you like in between the second [ and the ]]:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&amp;lt;![CDATA[End to End - Day 1 -  Lands Ends to St Just]]&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/name&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then comes an ordered set of routepoints &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;rtept lat=&quot;50.066113&quot; lon=&quot;-5.712081&quot;&amp;gt;&#xA;  &amp;lt;name&amp;gt;1&amp;lt;/name&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;/rtept&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can construct a file starting with the first &lt;em&gt;three&lt;/em&gt; lines &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&amp;lt;?xml version=&quot;1.0&quot; encoding=&quot;UTF-8&quot;?&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&amp;lt;gpx xmlns=&quot;http://www.topografix.com/GPX/1/0&quot; ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&amp;lt;rte&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then add in all the routepoints from your various GPX files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End with &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&amp;lt;/rte&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&amp;lt;/gpx&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T20:27:55.387" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T20:27:55.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25205" CreationDate="2014-10-19T11:27:08.320" Score="4" ViewCount="2439" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I came out of work to a flat tire. This is the second time I've got a puncture with less than 100km done on a brand new set of schwalbe smart sam tires. needless to say I was quite annoyed. The first puncture happened after about 40km and the second was after 95km, last night. It was the same wheel both times. After the first puncture, I checked and double checked for any foreign objects in the tire and rim and I found nothing. I pumped the tire and kept it at about 55psi because I read this is good for avoiding punctures. All this to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wonder what can I do to stop punctures for good? I'm a heavy guy (about 110kg) so maybe this just isn't possible? I've tried slime before and that was useless. I currently ride on Smart Sam 26&quot; x 2.25&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14135" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T13:52:09.243" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T20:03:54.550" Title="How do I stop punctures for good?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-19T12:24:17.253" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have in my bike a 1.9&quot; tyre in the front wheel and a 2.2&quot; in the rear. Is it safe to use this tyre sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14137" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T13:37:29.067" Title="Front tyre size - is 1.9&quot; a good option?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-10-19T16:27:02.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25203" CreationDate="2014-10-19T13:09:47.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Check and double check for objects in the tire again. Little shards may be completely embedded into the tire. I once had to go through 3 flats, searching every time, before finally finding the little bastard. Bending the tire inwards might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The Smart Sam exists in a &quot;Plus&quot; version with a 3 mm puncture guard. So if you like the Smart Sam, check out the Smart Sam Plus next time you change tires. I ride another tire with a similar puncture guard on my commuter and didn't had a flat for about 10000 km and counting. Judging by the stuff I find stuck in the tire, the puncture guard has saved me more than a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T13:09:47.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25204" CreationDate="2014-10-19T13:37:29.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can mix and match tire sizes if you want - its relatively common. You just need to make sure that the tires fit on the rim and to a lesser extent are &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;not too thin or too wide for the rim&lt;/a&gt;. This is often done for different tire clearances in the front and back, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T13:37:29.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25203" CreationDate="2014-10-19T13:51:23.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things to do. I'd start by reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; from Sheldon Brown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First determine how the flats are occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect the tube. Is the rim tape on the rim properly? (if not, you'll see a puncture on the wheel side)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the tube being pinch flatted? (a snakebite flat, two very closely placed punctures - usually a sign of too low pressure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you re-install the tube, are you pinching it between the tire bead and the rim? (You can make a rolling motion over the rim with the tire after its seated to prevent this from happening).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can't find the puncture easily, pull the tube out of the tire, give it some air and then try to find the hissing. If you can't find the hissing, try passing the tube around your lips or dunk the inflated inner tube into water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the inside and outside of the tire for any embedded debris, carefully. If you find some, remove it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the tube doesn't have any punctures, is the valve good? Sometimes a faulty valve causes pressure loss. You can either re-core the valve in some cases, or more easily just buy a new tube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many manufacturers make kevlar belted tires which have stronger puncture resistance (such as the Schwalbe Marathon Plus), but if your punctures are happening due to rim tape or something, then its not going to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are running such big tires at 55 psi though, I don't think it's low tire pressure -- I've had about 300 pounds of stuff (bicycle, rider, cargo) on a bike with 26x1.9&quot; tires at around those pressures without any problems on some pretty shabby roads.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first flat was indeed a puncture due to debris, my guess is that you didn't actually get all the debris out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-10-24T20:03:54.550" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T20:03:54.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25203" CreationDate="2014-10-19T20:11:03.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A more puncture resistant tyre isn't going to necessarily help in this situation. If you've come out of work and you've got a flat, it seems like a slow leak. If you didn't find anything in the tyre the 2nd time, I would be checking how you've seated the tyre on the rim, have you accidentally pinched the tube a bit, are the valves in good working order, are the tubes the right size for your 29x2.25 tyres? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're at home and have time and focus I would very carefully check the rim &amp;amp; tape for sharp edges, I would turn the tyre inside out and very thoroughly check for embedded objects or grit floating around in the tyre. Further to this, check your tube to see what the puncture looks like (single hole, snake bites, etc). If the tube has already been patched, then ditch it and put a fresh tube in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As a side note on checking the tube and tyre for objects and puncture cause, you could mark the tube with a piece of chalk where the valve is so that when you take it all apart you can line the valve up with where it was on the tube so you can more easily inspect the tube puncture site on both the tyre (inside it) and the rim. I find this can be helpful to quickly identify the most likely site of tyre/rim damage.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But simply the best way to never get a puncture on a bike again is, don't ride. But we all know that isn't going to happen is it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T20:11:03.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25203" CreationDate="2014-10-19T21:31:19.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Walmart was selling foam inserts that would replace the tube. This would eliminate any chance of a puncture. The disadvantage was weight. The one I handled was about 50% heavier then a convenrtional tire and tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14141" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T21:31:19.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25212" CreationDate="2014-10-20T05:05:19.133" Score="0" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently fell off a roof, lost quite a bit of skin from my elbow, which broke the fall, and that made me think: if I took a fall from my bike, how would I land? I would more than likely try to use my hands to break the fall, but my hands are unprotected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, winter is coming, and soon my hands will be freezing as I ride my bike. Therefore, are there any protective gloves that I can wear? I'm looking for something relatively inexpensive but something that would also give my hands (and fingers) a decent bit of protection should they kiss the concrete/asphalt. Therefore I don't want any gloves with finger holes ... those seem a bit pointless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T20:37:37.280" Title="Biking gloves with finger protection" Tags="&lt;gloves&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25211" CreationDate="2014-10-20T05:13:49.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when you fall on asphalt, fingerless gloves do cover the area of impact. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of manufacturers do make cycling gloves which are full fingered, such as the Giro Bravo shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1eTr6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;girobravo&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may feel more comfortable with this, but your hands will get a bit warmer and having open fingers helps making some adjustments a bit nicer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how cold your winter is, combining a thin running glove with a standard fingerless cycling glove may be adequate and provide enough protection as well. I often use this when its a bit chilly (say around 30F). When it gets into the 10s or 20s, I might double up a thin running glove with something like a Underarmour Coldgear glove -- not too thick, but layers are key for cold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, depending on winter riding you may want something like a lobster claw like the following Pearl Izumi's (possibly combined with a thin running glove - great in under -10F ish weather): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pzk3t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you're in the crazy cold, pogies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cqv5e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icebike.org/Clothing/handprotection.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Icebike's protecting your hands page&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T20:37:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T20:37:37.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-20T05:14:57.810" Score="0" ViewCount="861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that my bike has a 25.4 mm diameter seat post. So can I purchase any old 25.4 mm diameter seat post from eBay and expect it work with my existing bike seat? Here are some pictures of my existing seat post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that my bike seat has a little part that slips &lt;em&gt;over&lt;/em&gt; the seat post .... I'm assuming that all I need to do is loosen the hex nuts on either side and the bike seat will let go of the old seat post and in the new one goes, right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ETA: will this seat post work? Thinking of pulling the trigger on this one.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/XLC-Bike-Bicycle-Seatpost-with-Clamp-350mm-NEW-25-4-mm-Black-/221504900980?pt=US_Seatposts&amp;amp;hash=item3392b88f74&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/XLC-Bike-Bicycle-Seatpost-with-Clamp-350mm-NEW-25-4-mm-Black-/221504900980?pt=US_Seatposts&amp;amp;hash=item3392b88f74&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wOPhS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastEditorUserId="14039" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T06:05:39.197" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T06:05:39.197" Title="Help me buy a bike seat post" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25213" CreationDate="2014-10-20T05:21:49.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nearly. The diameter does need to match, but you also need to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;consider the materials&lt;/a&gt; -- metal needs grease, carbon fiber doesn't, so combining the materials in the frame and seatpost shouldn't be done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that different seat posts have different levels of adjustability - saddle angle and position, height (which connects to minimum/maximum insertion distance) to name some, so your seatpost will need to be adjustable enough to get a good fit for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for saddles fitting on the seat post, most saddles will work with most seatposts as the rail width on the saddles is essentially standard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd say make sure your seat post is metal if your bike is metal, carbon fiber if your bike is carbon fiber. Then, pick something with the same diameter and enough adjustability so your bike can fit on it (for most people, even a basic seat post like the Bontrager SSR seat post will work fine, though for nice saddles like Brooks, you will want something with a bit more adjustability). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T05:21:49.777" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25219" CreationDate="2014-10-20T06:48:38.843" Score="4" ViewCount="9677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live near a lot of hills and am fairly new to biking.  In my lowest gear I still can't keep up at an efficient pedal rate on the hills.  I found out they sell &quot;compact cranksets&quot; which in addition to having a different bolt pattern have fewer teeth (50/34 vs 53/39).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I simply replace my old crank set (Shimano 105 5600, 53/39) with a new 56xx or 57xx compact crank?  I'd expect to have to take a few links out of my chain too, but other than than can I keep my shifter and derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14133" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T15:39:37.177" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T07:11:45.110" Title="Can I drop-in a compact crank set with my current 105 groupset" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;compact-crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25215" CreationDate="2014-10-20T08:15:26.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need the FC-5650 chainring and crankarms. Reusing the BB should be OK. Yep shifter and derailleur is compatible but you will probably need to adjust the front derailleur down the seat tube to accommodate for the smaller front chainring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10463" LastEditorUserId="10463" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T22:11:49.617" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T22:11:49.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25215" CreationDate="2014-10-20T08:43:55.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right to say that the compact crankset will give you smaller gears to help you get over hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do a straight swap of the crankset, everything else will be compatible, although will need readjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you currently have a 5600 crankset, then you are absolutely safe to swap for another 5600 (compact) crankset. Now, the compatibility between different Shimano ranges is governed by the number of sprockets on the cassette, and the good news for you is that both 5600 and 5700 are 10-speed. So, basically, 5600 or 5700 cranksets will fit you perfectly (as would any other Shimano 10-speed road crankset).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5800 is an 11-speed system, you could probably get away with using this crankset (since the differences are small), but it will not fit as perfectly as 5600/5700. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/road/105_5700/product.-code-FC-5750-S.-type-..html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimanio's site&lt;/a&gt;, the part you need is either the FC-5750, or the FC-5650. The &quot;50&quot; appears to denote compact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, do you know what length your cranks are? It might be worth measuring this just so that you get the same length with the new crankset. (You'll see on the Shimano site that things are available in four different lengths, the differences between each are small but they will affect your fit.) Here's an example of what you're measuring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bQtCb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T15:39:06.447" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T15:39:06.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25215" CreationDate="2014-10-20T12:11:15.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can drop in a compact crankset which has Hollowtech II compatibility. Otherwise, you can remove the existing bottom bracket and install a new one compatible with the crankset you buy. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/complete-guide-to-bottom-brackets-36660/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; gives you a guide to all the bottom bracket types you can install in your frame (look under conventional threaded), in case you find you want to switch to another make of crankset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some other options though (which may be cheaper):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) If you can live with a 50-39, you can find a 50t outer ring with the 130 BCD. This may be a bit cheaper, but you still need to adjust the FD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You can put on a bigger rear cassette. If you have a short cage or medium cage rear derailleur, this may require a long cage rear derailleur (e.g. a 9 speed deore). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T12:11:15.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-20T14:48:10.887" Score="3" ViewCount="3157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding with my very short seat post extended well past its maximum extension line for quite a while now. Looking at the seat post itself I don't see any signs of deformation or damage other than some very minor surface rust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could my bike frame have been damaged? Could the lever force have damaged the frame? I can post some pictures of the frame if needed. My bike is all aluminum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastEditorUserId="14039" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T15:08:53.023" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T16:19:40.193" Title="Seatpost Overextension" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25222" CreationDate="2014-10-20T15:48:35.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull the post and hold it next to the seat tube to see how far it goes in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does not go in far enough to be into the seat tube below the top tube you are putting a LOT of stress on the top of the seat tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Believe that maximum mark on the seat post.  A seat post is not that expensive to risk damaging a frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just one (not cheap) seat post but that min mark is pretty conservative.  If you are cheating the min mark you playing with danger.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j2ryX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcbbg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SeatPost&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T22:24:13.447" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T22:24:13.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-20T15:49:14.237" Score="0" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;would I be able to put new rear wheel with 12mm x 142 axle on my 2007 RM Element 70 frame in terms of dropouts compatibility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14148" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T19:03:42.707" Title="would I be able to put new rear wheel with 12mm x 142 axle on my 2007 RM Element 70 frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;&lt;through-axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25224" CreationDate="2014-10-20T17:44:55.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Element 70 has a 10mm x 135mm QR rear hub so the rear dropout will not be wide enough to fit a 12mm x 142mm wheel. The 12mm is the axle diameter, the 142mm the dropout width. New rear hub standards are not only larger diameter axles but wider hubs, front hubs are different in that you can use a thru axle with a shim to fit a QR dropout as the width did not change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T18:52:05.167" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T18:52:05.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25222" CreationDate="2014-10-20T20:24:13.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can damage the frame if the seat post is too short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have personally seen someone sit down on an overextended seatpost and fall off the bike as the seat post was wrenched out of the seat tube. The collar went flying and the top of his seat tube was mangled. His frame was titanium and he was able to bend it back. You probably wouldn't be able to salvage it with aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all likelihood, the minimum insertion line is at least somewhat higher than it needs to be in (courtesy of the lawyers). My gut tells me that it's fine as long as the seat post extends into the seat tube an inch or two past the top tube and seat stays. However, that is &lt;em&gt;my gut&lt;/em&gt;. Don't take it as gospel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in any doubt, buy a longer seat post. They're cheap. A frame is expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T16:19:40.193" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T16:19:40.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2014-10-21T01:43:19.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a regular drier, tie the laces into knots, and close the drier on them to suspend them inside the drier. Turn the drier on high. This came from this post: &lt;a href=&quot;http://kc-bike.blogspot.com/2008/09/tricks-of-trade-drying-your-grimy-shoes.html?m=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://kc-bike.blogspot.com/2008/09/tricks-of-trade-drying-your-grimy-shoes.html?m=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure you check the manual for your cleats. Some manufacturers will void your warranty if you expose your shoes to high heat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14152" LastEditorUserId="14152" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T22:18:20.440" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T22:18:20.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25236" CreationDate="2014-10-21T08:00:58.517" Score="4" ViewCount="1507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using from a long time TIME pedals (ATAC).&#xA;I saw that Mavic now is making pedals that looks like Time's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know if they are compatible?&#xA;Can I use cleats from Time (already on my shoes :) with pedals made by Mavic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1623" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T19:12:02.430" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T19:12:02.430" Title="Mavic - TIME ATAC pedals compatibility" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;pedals-clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25234" CreationDate="2014-10-21T08:34:17.200" Score="0" ViewCount="3206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the right arm (drive side) of the Shimano Deore FC-M591-S Hollowtech II is getting loose. The right side has the axis attached to it as shown in the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JwZEA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FC-M591&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I take off the left arm (non-drive side) I can see the &lt;strong&gt;axis moving up and down&lt;/strong&gt; within the frame. I tried tightening the connection with the crank lid tool which helps somewhat. The set is from April 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14156" LastEditorUserId="14156" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T10:27:03.020" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T13:12:48.183" Title="Loose axis of Shimano Deore FC-M591-S Hollowtech II" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25232" CreationDate="2014-10-21T10:36:51.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things, if you take off the drive-side (R) of the crank and the 'axis' moves while you hold onto the chainrings, then the crankset needs replacing (or at the very least, this drive-side part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, if there is too much play in the 'axis' while it is still in the bottom bracket, then the bottom bracket cups are probably worn out and will need replacing. I've heard it is possible so service these cups by taking off the plastic rings, but never tried it myself. The cups are usually inexpensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Square taper bottom brackets usually last longer but are heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5w37w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;External Bottom Bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming these are already attached to your frame, so you'll need a tool like this too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dKvjZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hollowtech tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10500" LastEditorUserId="10500" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T13:12:48.183" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T13:12:48.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T11:11:25.677" Score="16" ViewCount="12266" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could someone provide a comparison between having a bike with a chain, with a shaft drive and with a belt drive like the Gates Carbon Drive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be good to know who fares better in terms of low maintenance, durability, and efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14157" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-01-29T22:02:09.653" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T10:04:09.350" Title="Chain vs chainless options" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;belt-drive&gt;&lt;shaft&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25231" CreationDate="2014-10-21T12:17:57.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mavic pedals are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.us/pedals/atac&quot;&gt;ATAC&lt;/a&gt; (see also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mavic.com/pedals-accessories-mtb-atac-cleat#.VEZORYvZ1BM&quot;&gt;cleat page&lt;/a&gt;). They were &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/mavic-crossmax-xt-pedal-review-2014.html&quot;&gt;developed by TIME&lt;/a&gt; and just &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cxmagazine.com/mavic-crossmax-sl-pedal-fury-shoe-product-review&quot;&gt;rebranded by Mavic&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd expect that they're compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T12:17:57.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25243" CreationDate="2014-10-21T12:35:43.560" Score="2" ViewCount="2632" Body="&lt;p&gt;I apparently over-torqued the crank bolt and it made a loud snapping sound. Now the hex wrench just spins freely and so I can neither tighten nor loosen the bolt. How do I remove the (non-drive side) crank arm? Will a replacement bolt, if available, resolve this issue or have I done more damage than that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/n5EFB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank bolt kinda straight on&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j3wWy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank bolt tilted&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13525" LastEditorUserId="13525" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T14:55:54.883" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T10:12:57.447" Title="How to remove crank arm with broken bolt on SRAM Omnium crankset" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T13:11:59.323" Score="1" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some bikes with a pugsley or similar fork and 3&quot;+ tires on a hard tail mtb frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Has anyone done this them selves? &#xA;-Do you really notice any flotation with only one fat tire and one regular? (2.3&quot; is the max my rear triangle will accept) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14158" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T20:36:10.500" Title="Hybrid Fat/Snow Bike" Tags="&lt;snow&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25245" CreationDate="2014-10-21T13:12:19.363" Score="7" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today we studied about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuously_variable_transmission&quot;&gt;mechanical stepless drives&lt;/a&gt;, which appear to be used quite widely in industry machines, such as CNC lathes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concept of varying the transmission ratio arbitrary, without fixed steps, seems tempting for a bike. Has it ever been tried commercially?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T21:26:55.267" Title="Have there been designs of bikes with stepless transmission?" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25238" CreationDate="2014-10-21T13:35:00.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're describing a Fat-Front setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cornering on soft surfaces should be improved, as well as shock absorption if you run low pressure, but drive would only improve in the case where the fat front tyre can compact snow enough for the regular rear tyre to dig in less than it would on a standard MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T20:36:10.500" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T20:36:10.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-21T17:14:55.573" Score="2" ViewCount="1731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mostly used conventional sneakers for cycling  and never wore bicycle shoes in my life. At this moment of my life I decided to level up a bit. I've built myself a road bike and now I'm looking into proper footwear. It's a whole new world for me and I'm completely lost. My first impression is that there are several types of pedals, cleats and shoes and you have to choose the right ones in order to fit them all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really appreciate a brief consultation on how to choose a proper footwear gear. Which pedals play good with which shoes and/or cleats and how to buy the right combination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys! You're the best!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T22:02:20.637" Title="Bicycle shoes for road cycling" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-10-22T12:48:54.093" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25241" CreationDate="2014-10-21T18:37:06.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there are lots of different options with pedals (it's a bit easier with shoes), but they can be summarised quite briefly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Types of pedals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat - a standard pedal on many bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat pedal with toe clips. So you can still use any shoe, but the toe clip holds your shoe in place on the pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Clipless&quot; pedals - where both pedal and shoe have a some kind of mechanism, common to both, which binds the shoe to the pedal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days, using clipless pedals is very common, although there is still debate as to whether it is the most efficient setup. Terminology is also confusing here - strictly speaking this type of pedal is called clipless, yet we talk about &quot;clipping in&quot; and &quot;clipping out&quot;. It sounds a bit silly at first, but something you soon get used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedal systems use a special pedal, plus something called a cleat. The cleat is is attached to a special shoe, designed specifically for road cycling, using some bolts, and the pedal and cleat basically bind together to secure the foot. For the most part, cleats will fit any road-cycling shoe, but there are exceptions here so it is something you need to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the options come in here are as regards the pedal/cleat combination. As you might imagine, several companies have come up with different takes on this. I will not give an exhaustive list of these companies, but to name a few, the mechanism was first developed by the French company Look (as soon as you take an interest in pedals, this name is unavoidable and they are still big players). At some point later, the world's largest cycle component manufacturer, Shimano, got in on the act with their SPD-SL mechanism. As I say, there are several others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to stress, these mechanisms are much of a muchness in terms of what they do, so choosing one over another is mostly down to personal preference. As you might imagine, though, one manufacturer will deliberately make their cleat/pedal tech different to other manufacturers, so in general you can't mix and match brands. (Although there are exceptions here too, you see some &quot;Look Keo compatible&quot; cleats on the market). But generally, this incompatibility also applies to different ranges within the same brand. For example, Look have two ranges (Delta and Keo) which are totally incompatible with each other. So you can see, you do kind of get sucked into a particular choice....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond this, still with clipless pedals, you can control how much you allow your foot to move on the pedal whilst riding. SPD-SL and the Look Keo range support this, possibly others too (as @JohnP says, this is called float, and there are other questions on this site that give you an idea why you might choose one float over another).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yeah, a complicated issue. My own history was that I first bought into the clipless idea, then just plumped for SPD-SL on the grounds that most of the components on the bike were also Shimano! Nothing more scientific than that. I've since changed to Look Keo (because I bought some special pedals that required me to do so) but have noticed no practical differrence whatsoever. So, take your pick!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T22:02:20.637" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T22:02:20.637" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25237" CreationDate="2014-10-21T19:06:59.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I brought this to my local bike shop. They were able to get the external bolt off with a larger hex wrench (the bolt is 8mm). Not sure how they got the inner bolt out--I'll edit with an update when I stop by to pick it up after the replacement part comes in tomorrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13525" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T19:06:59.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25241" CreationDate="2014-10-21T19:33:33.723" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you're talking about cleats on your shoes, there are three main attachment systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left: 2-bolt, Middle: 2 or 3 bolt, Right: 3 bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gy0Y6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cycling shoe cleat attachment options.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice how the one on the left has a chunkier sole. The two-bolt option is used for SPD which are popular with MTB, commuting and touring cyclists. I use 2-bolt SPD shoes on my audax bike because I'm able to walk in them without slipping over or damaging the cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/9203/5337&quot;&gt;comparison of the different pedals&lt;/a&gt; has already been covered thoroughly on bicycles.SE, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://guides.wiggle.co.uk/cycling-pedals-and-cleats-buying-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiggle also provide some friendly explanations&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T19:33:33.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25239" CreationDate="2014-10-21T21:03:37.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been designs, but cyclists tend to be picky about increases in weight or losses in efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles do not have the problems of large spinning masses or rough clutching at low speed, and we seem to do OK with discrete steps in the gear ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T21:03:37.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-22T11:28:24.890" Score="3" ViewCount="4257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just upgraded my commuter bike (old Trek 370) to the replaced components from my main road bike (originally &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2009&amp;amp;brand=Specialized&amp;amp;model=Allez+Triple&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2009 specialized allez&lt;/a&gt; - new head and handle) and found the brake calipers aren't long enough (similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6689/brake-callipers-not-long-enough-to-allow-adjustment-of-pads&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;). They are unbranded calipers anyway so I'm looking to upgrade them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/brakes-brakes-road-shimano-r451-57mm-brake-set/shimbrar343&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; long reach calipers I've found they state &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Must be used in conjunction with ST-4600, ST-4603, ST-5700, ST-5703, - ST-6700 or ST-7900 STIs for correct leverage ratio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see these are Tiagra and above. I'm not sure which the Allez's shifters were (ST-3500?). What difference is there in lever ratio? I thought all shimano shifters were compatible and can't find any more details about compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which calipers can I look at to work with my shifters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T03:55:56.943" Title="Shimano Sora vs higher range brake pull ratio" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25249" CreationDate="2014-10-22T13:50:24.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cable pull ratio was changed for the listed models, whereas previous generations were compatible with a wide range of Shimano and non-Shimano brake components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use Shimano's Specifications site to compare the compatibility of your levers and brake calipers.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://productinfo.shimano.com/specifications.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://productinfo.shimano.com/specifications.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T13:50:24.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25249" CreationDate="2014-10-22T16:11:39.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the comments on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20295/use-of-shimano-long-reach-calipers-with-new-super-slr-brake-levers-shifters&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;. On an old compatibility chart, Shimano says they will play nice with old brake levers, but on newer ones they say they the braking force may be much too high on their data sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, other companies make decent long reach calipers as well, such as the Tektro R556/R559 (maybe these are &lt;em&gt;extra&lt;/em&gt; long reach by some people standards, and R539 may be long enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T16:11:39.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25255" CreationDate="2014-10-22T17:02:50.460" Score="0" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a freewheel'd hub is it normal for the drive side of the axle to flex a little bit?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the kickstand on my bike and the new one sits closer to the rear tire with about 2 mm clearance.  However, since I did this I picked up a squeak/rub, but only when I'm applying power.  I back off the power or coast and the squeak goes away.  Upon closer inspection I have found that the tire is rubbing in spots, but with very little force.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same setup in another question of mine where I was having axle troubles (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24416/reoccurring-bent-axles-any-reasons-or-upgrades&quot;&gt;Reoccurring Bent Axles, any reasons or upgrades?&lt;/a&gt;).  I have replaced said axle with a stronger one (so the LBS told me) close to the same time, and so far, no other major issues.  The wheel is true, but tire does have a spot or 2 where it is out of line.  I have checked for play in the bearings, but none is there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that it only rubs though when applying power and it doesn't at all when on the stand then I'm lead to believe that the driving forces is causing the drive side of the wheel to move forward and causing my issue.  Am I right here and is it normal?  If it is normal, is such a flex going to be a bent axle later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T13:49:37.587" Title="Axle flex under load normal for freewheel hub?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24232" CreationDate="2014-10-22T20:51:14.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nut is basically for ease of inflation when the tire is flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a looks-oriented cyclist using one may make you look a little less serious, due to the implied fact that if you maintain your bike often you wont have flat tires from having your bike sit. If you have expensive wheels you might not want to use one for fear of it scratching the rim (cosmetic damage only, but still ...). Also, it is easier to take the tube out when you get a flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to use one a little grease on the stem threads keeps it from getting stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13819" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T22:43:06.170" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T22:43:06.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24232" CreationDate="2014-10-23T00:43:37.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some, especially little mobile, pumps do not have the tube and mount directly onto the valve which makes valve to move into all directions while pumping which is definitely not healthy for the place where your tube is connected to the valve. In fact I have managed to destroy a tube this way. The nut helps to avoid this problem by holding valve into the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T00:43:37.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25252" CreationDate="2014-10-23T02:57:15.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Batman says, 2mm is VERY little clearance on a bike. It is more likely to be the frame flexing (more so the chain and seat stays) causing the tyre to move around a bit. I would see if there is a way to mount the stand a little further forward on its bracket. You want to create as much distance as you can between your stand and the tyre as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video example of a frame flexing to show what is meant by flex&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/cAz5wOBxuMI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T02:57:15.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-23T06:07:55.280" Score="0" ViewCount="3296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of getting some Velocity Rims that are 650c but I am wondering if I will be able to use my 700x23c Gatorskin tires on them? Also what do you think about 650c wheels pros and cons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, lets say I just buy the 650 rims do I need to change anything else in the bike? I have a Fuji Newest 3.0, I think the 2008 version, if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14171" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T08:03:17.647" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T21:19:04.830" Title="can i use a 700c tire (Gatorskin 700c x23) on a 650 wheel" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25256" CreationDate="2014-10-23T06:18:07.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best place to look is Sheldon Brown's famous site. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest given the difference in diamaeter you will run into issues attempting to put your 700x23c tyres on a 650c rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T06:18:07.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25256" CreationDate="2014-10-23T07:37:08.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the question in the comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to move the brake pad a bit further down to adapt to the smaller rim. This may possibly lead to that you have to change the brake. Check how much you can lower the brake pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10374" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T07:37:08.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25256" CreationDate="2014-10-23T07:49:39.563" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you will not be able to use your 700x23c tire on a 650c rim. The bead seat diameter of 700c rims is 622mm, this will also be the bead diameter of the your 700x23c tire.  The bead seat diameter of a 650c rim is 571mm (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velocityusa.com/p/road-wheelset-650c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velocity's Spec section&lt;/a&gt;). Your 700x23c tire will be 51mm too wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T21:19:04.830" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T21:19:04.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25256" CreationDate="2014-10-23T07:58:06.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ahh, no.&#xA;The rims are different sizes, 700 vs 650, so obviously each will take a different size tire.&#xA;Why do you want to change to a smaller wheel?&#xA;Brakes likely will not reach rim. &#xA;Bicycle would be closer to ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T07:58:06.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25256" CreationDate="2014-10-23T09:27:09.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an owner of both 650c and 700c-wheeled bikes will happily share my thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, 650c wheels are lighter and obviously smaller which makes the whole ride more dynamic which can improve your maneuverability.&#xA;On the other hand, 650c wheels are prone to sliding on stones or corners so you must be more careful when riding. 650c wheels spin faster so be ready to change tires sooner than on 700c bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most makers make good tires for both 650 and 700 wheels, but 700 are more popular and therefore you end up with better choice. When it comes to wheels the picture is even grimmer... However, it just takes little more searching - many makers produce 650c versions of their wheels too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size difference between 700 and 650c wheels is very significant so there's no way to fit 700c tires onto 650c wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing wheels from 700c to 650c is in usually bad idea, because you will have to move brakes (usually impossible) and most likely the bottom part of your bracket will be too low and pedals too close to the ground to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T09:27:09.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24232" CreationDate="2014-10-23T14:30:54.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advantages of not using a lock nut: faster tube removal, looking 'pro', possibly avoiding damage to tube due to overtightened nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantage: I run big tires and deep section rims. If I try and push the pump head on to the presta valve, it likes to bury itself inside the rim to hide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the nut on there stops the vaulve from going down in to the rim. This is important when I'm doing a roadside repair and using a small portable pump with a tight fitting rubber gasket. I've bent the delicate little valve on tubes due to poor purchase with the pump head, so I want this little nut holding things so I don't mess it up.  I could push the back of the valve with my hands while I try to fit the pump head on, but this really sucks with some tires, especially the very puncture resistant ones which are not very flexible (panaracer ribmo) and make it hard to do this because they don't want to push down between the rim walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T14:37:55.940" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T14:37:55.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25239" CreationDate="2014-10-23T21:26:55.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fallbrooktech.com/cycling/n360&quot;&gt;NuVinci® N360&lt;/a&gt; is a continuous variable transmission that is roller based. It is marketed and used mainly on hybrid and low maintenance city bikes.  They must have had some market success as they have been around since 2006. I recall seeing them at Interbike around that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NuVinci_Continuously_Variable_Transmission&quot;&gt;internal structure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T21:26:55.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25194" CreationDate="2014-10-24T09:48:48.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I will be able to do what I really want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to have an A3 print, or even an A2 print, of our whole route from Lands End to John O Groats, overlaid over a map of the UK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now have a gpx of the whole route&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the only place I can get a reasonable representation is on my tablet or phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has to do with esthetics not information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two images, one a screenshot from my tablet and the other a screenshot from Google Earth show the esthetic differences:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/hngvvcru7ar3jtk/Screenshot_2014-10-24-10-23-25.jpg?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/hngvvcru7ar3jtk/Screenshot_2014-10-24-10-23-25.jpg?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/1rwy92svwwkjtyx/Google%20Earth.jpg?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/1rwy92svwwkjtyx/Google%20Earth.jpg?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tablet screenshot would look ok, in a larger size (if I could scale the map detail as well i.e enlarging this just shows towns etc as blurs); the blue overlay gives enough detail without being over bearing. The line Google Earth shot is just too thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14174" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T09:48:48.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25266" CreationDate="2014-10-24T12:32:23.483" Score="0" ViewCount="1945" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have been trying to get the lockring removed from my cassette so I can replace it with a spacer kit and one sprocket (singlespeed conversion). I managed to get it loose, although the wrong way - so the whole cassette started unscrewing off the hub. I can't turn it the other way at all. Can someone confirm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That this is actually a lockring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, any tips on how to remove it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a chain whip, lockring tool and 24mm spanner/wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8zCyO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cassette&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12758" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T13:41:18.050" Title="Can't remove lockring" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25265" CreationDate="2014-10-24T12:51:49.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it screws on then it is a freewheel not a cassette.  They are not the same.  There is a link in my comment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your spacer kit with one sprocket was probably for cassette / freehub.  It is not going to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect you can find a freewheel single speed conversion.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You need a single speed freewheel - not a sprocket and a lockring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-24T13:01:16.057" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T13:01:16.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25265" CreationDate="2014-10-24T12:52:05.060" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;take a sparkplug  3/4 make sure that the back willfit inside the freewheel of the cog and no axle is there it might need a little hammer tap to get the six sided part down in there make sure u dont mind scratching outside of socket then u need a pipe wrench or good table vise and grip socket turning wheel counter clockwise for it to thread off the hub..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14177" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T12:52:05.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24468" CreationDate="2014-10-24T13:11:41.693" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is that if you are good with understanding how electrical motors and circuits differ, thats where you should begin. Stepper motors servo motors are what you are after and amperes is your power output. Watts is how long your power lasts until recharge is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14177" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-10-24T14:15:22.553" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T14:15:22.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25203" CreationDate="2014-10-24T14:49:14.053" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;put carnations condensed concentrated milk into your tube take out valve stem get a applicator bottle u need a hose that will either snug over stem or inner to fill up tube use half a can to a can per tube 3 fl oz should due. this id recommend if u are a green slime believer depending on thickness and type tires entry level regular tires no high end racing or rolled up tires!1 more method adhesive spray and use a bad tube spray inside of tire cover inner topside only cover with spray adhesive very well and cut off old valve stem apply old tube to the inside of good tire let set for awhile then re install &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14177" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T14:49:14.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25273" CreationDate="2014-10-24T17:15:48.153" Score="3" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it practical (or is there any reason not to) upgrade components on a bicycle when they are replaced?  For instance, I've got a 10 speed cassette on a tour bike that needs to be replaced.  The bike is mostly Tiagra components, but is there any reason (other than cost, but in this case it seems like it's only about a $35 difference) to not upgrade to 105 or Ultegra?  (Staying within the same 10 speed part.) Are there certain components that have to be replaced as a set if I upgrade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/8656/replace-ultegra-6600-sti-lever/8657#8657&quot;&gt;compatibility chart&lt;/a&gt;, and if I understand it, it is saying that an Ultegra ST-6700 is a drop-in replacement for a Tiagra ST-4600.  But I'm not sure if that is everything I have to look at, can I just do a drop in replacement of any component in any box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also concerned about whether there could be other issues with mis-matched components, for instance will a better component in one place lose some of its benefits or be degraded by a lower grade component that it interacts with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T19:56:12.823" Title="upgrading components on replacement?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25272" CreationDate="2014-10-24T17:32:37.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no harm in doing so, as long as you identify compatible components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do take a hit on cost, by which I mean that components work out a lot cheaper when bought as part of the bike, rather than standalone. So economically it would probably make sense to stuff the money in a piggy bank, and save up for a new bike with better components, since when that time comes you'll get more bang for your buck. But if your pocket is willing to take that hit, go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't looked at your specific case but in general, upgrading from something Shimano to something Shimano will work, as long as both mechs have the same number of gears on the cassette. 6700, for example, is a 10-speed system so as long as 4600 is also 10-speed, you should be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other caveat to bear in mind (when upgrading brakes/shifters) is that a couple of Shimano mechs have different pull ratios to others. In fact, there was &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/25249/shimano-sora-vs-higher-range-brake-pull-ratio&quot;&gt;a question about this just a couple of days ago&lt;/a&gt; which I remember links to a document explaining what mechs are affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, while I start by saying there's no harm, there might also be no gain either. That's going to depend on you, and on the rest of the bike. So you're right to raise this in your question, but it will result in &quot;no gain&quot; rather than &quot;harm&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T17:39:37.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25194" CreationDate="2014-10-24T17:42:13.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each member of our &quot;End-to_end&quot; ride would like an image to hang on their study wall; bearing in mind our, now, ages, some are not that au-fait with computers and prefer the technology in use when we did the ride i.e. 1998, even if I had to use the latest to produce the image. A2 ideally but A3 would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14174" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T17:42:13.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25272" CreationDate="2014-10-24T19:56:12.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the only time it is worth upgrading is after the part in question has worn out. If that is the case for you, and if you plan to keep the bike for a while, I would say that upgrading the cassette is a decent investment. We're not talking about a huge outlay to explore different equipment. Your experience might nudge you toward or away from &quot;better&quot; parts all around on your next bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretical benefits of an Ultegra cassette over your Tiagra cassette:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight savings (a bit of Googling tells me an Ultegra 11-25 6700&#xA;cassette weighs 209g and a Tiagra 11-25 4600 cassette weighs 263g, or&#xA;about 2 ounces difference). Not much that you will notice, but it all&#xA;adds up. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better shifting. The Ultegra cassette is much more    aggressively&#xA;ramped than the Tiagra cassette to encourage the chain    to move&#xA;more quickly between gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have to upgrade other parts at the same time/will better parts be degraded by lesser parts they work with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In this case you need to change (but not necessarily upgrade) your&#xA;chain or you will never get good shifting with any new cassette.&#xA;Overall you won't see the full benefits of an Ultegra bike vs a&#xA;Tiagra bike without changing out everything, but as I stated at the&#xA;start, I wouldn't upgrade anything that wasn't worn out. It's just&#xA;too expensive to do, so you may as well use what you have as long as&#xA;it still works. There should be no &quot;degradation&quot; in terms of&#xA;&quot;damage&quot;, but the better parts won't shine like they will if working&#xA;in concert with a full group of the same quality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all comes down to a cost-benefit analysis. The costs are obvious, the benefits are not always as clear because there is too much advertising hype. In this particular case, I would personally spend the $35 extra to try out Ultegra if I planned to keep the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14071" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T19:56:12.823" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-24T21:36:35.820" Score="3" ViewCount="1082" Body="&lt;p&gt;How prudent is it to install lock on grips onto carbon fiber mountain biking handle bars? Are there some grips that will work and some that won't? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14178" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-10-25T13:27:45.493" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T13:27:45.493" Title="Can lock on grips go with carbon fiber handle bars?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;grips&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25285" CreationDate="2014-10-25T00:04:56.387" Score="3" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I biked the longest I have in my life; my previous record was one 12 mile ride, but today I went ~36 miles on my MTB. Should there be any steps I take to recover myself? Also what things should I inspect on the MTB? I noticed that during my ride there was sometimes pain in my lower back ... should I be moving the seat forward or backward? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-10-25T22:55:05.477" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T03:38:09.497" Title="Recovery after long ride" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25280" CreationDate="2014-10-25T04:32:38.677" Score="4" ViewCount="3183" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a Fox float shock (a standard air shock) and I was wondering if I could use a regular tire pump or do I need a special shock pump to fill it back up? Also, are there side effects of using either one? It's a rear shock and low on air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14077" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T07:15:23.157" Title="Can I use any pump to fill up shock?" Tags="&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25284" CreationDate="2014-10-25T05:52:57.770" Score="4" ViewCount="777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to spin rather slow when I am riding.  50rpm is a comfortable rate for me to spin for as long as I want to ride.  90rpm seems to be the rate at which I expend maximum power... I can't spin this longer than about 2 1/2 minutes on a -2% (downhill) grade, but going uphill I can sprint at least 15 seconds on a +12% grade starting at 90rpm (corresponding to close to 30mph), before I start to slow down appreciably, and correspondingly I have found that I perform much better on hills due to the lower cadences required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my concern is higher cadences are generally recommended (I especially see this when people are asking about higher gear ratios to go faster), and I have been told that 50rpm is way too low for a cruising cadence.  But if I do something like interval training to increase my cadence I am concerned that this will affect my climbing strength.  Is this something I should worry about, or is there a specific approach that can result in me being able to tolerate higher cadences, without losing power at the low end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T03:11:52.493" Title="will increasing cadence ability hurt my climbing strength?" Tags="&lt;climbing&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25278" CreationDate="2014-10-25T07:15:23.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as physically attaching the thing, that's easy, any shrader pump should fit as long as the head is small enough to clear anything in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used a minipump to fill forks in an emergency, but it's not easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shocks run at much higher pressures though and I'm not sure you're going to be able to get high enough with most pumps. Some quick Googling says Fox Shocks have a max of 300PSI, that's a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap shock pump can be got for $15, just buy one. The right tool for the job is usually the best way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T07:15:23.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25050" CreationDate="2014-10-25T07:26:32.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I should quickly define a few words to avoid ambiguity in what follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong ==  Force / Cross-Section Area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Durable == Strain (deformation) energy in the material before failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Endurance Limit ==  Asymptote where alternating stress does not decrease with additional load cycles &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your question:  Bonding Agent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bonding agent is (in theory) as strong as the carbon fiber epoxy, but structurally, it is the weakest over-all material in the joint.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon Fiber  &gt;&gt;  Aluminum  &gt;&gt;&gt;  Bonding Agent or Epoxy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, carbon fiber is composed a the cloth-like carbon fiber soaked in an epoxy (another bonding agent), effectively gluing carbon sheets together. At the macro scale, the carbon fibers transfer most of the force and the epoxy is just there to hold the carbon fibers together.  At the micro scale, only the epoxy and &#xA;bonding agent are bonded. I cant speak with respect to specific bonding agents or bike makers, but from an engineering perspective, the bonding agent should be as strong and durable as the carbon fiber epoxy, though weaker than individual carbon fibers or aluminum.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While the bonding agent and epoxy are close in strength, the bonded area/agent is the weakest material in the joint: At the micro scale, this is where deformations (strain) and stress are largest and failure begins at the macro scale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your next question:  Life Span&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Materials with an endurance limit have an unlimited fatigue life (for a max rider weight) in theory.  Carbon fiber and Steel have an infinite fatigue life... In theory.  If stresses are below the endurance limit, the material does not weaken and can undergo theoretically infinite stress/load cycles.  Other non-ferrous alloys like Aluminum do not have an endurance limit, the material continues to weaken with additional stress/load cycles; eventually they are destined to fail- bike makers design aluminum frames to last far in excess of the what someone might ride during the bikes useful life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fqDge.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Fatigue Life (Steel=Ferrous, Aluminum=Non-Ferrous)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, many things affect fatigue life and strength in materials.  Scratches (even small ones) are a Very common cause for significant failures to develop/propagate in all materials.  Alloy frames suffer from incomplete welds or poor heat treatments during manufacture as possible causes of failure; typically alloy failures are not catastrophic (and safer) because the metal bends (giving obvious and ample warning) before breaking in half.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber is increasingly sensitive to impacts.  Where alloys bend, carbon is brittle and might crack or de-laminate (where layers separate, first at the micro scale, leading to macro scale cracks and failure.  As cracks develop, surrounding areas take more load, causing the existing crack to widen.  Carbon (and composite failures in general) are more catastrophic in nature because carbon is more brittle and there is little warning or time before the carbon breaks in half.  Voids (small air pockets trapped in between carbon layers) during manufacture, if present, are likely causes of failure.  UV radiation and extreme heat, or oils and solvents can degrade the epoxy/bonding agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, normal bike use leads to failures - ie. Handling the frame with dirt and sand on it, A rock kicked up from a tire impacts the frame, You fall, The frame gets scratches in the car or on the rack, Take your pick.  So while the materials themselves have an infinite fatigue life, life happens and failures &#xA;happen; bike makers continually tweak their designs and techniques to avoid real-life failures but they happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In buying a used bike, inspect it in person, and gain trust that the owner took good care of it.  I bought my bike used as well - personally, I think thats the way to go - but there is some level of unavoidable risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14180" LastEditorUserId="14180" LastEditDate="2014-10-25T07:45:46.707" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T07:45:46.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25293" CreationDate="2014-10-25T10:44:22.540" Score="5" ViewCount="1584" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you google for images of (canoe &amp;amp; bike) you find two basic solutions to towing a canoe with a bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A traditional axle mounted tralier is modified to have a tongue long enough to load/support the canoe/kayak on the trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A seat post or carrier mounted pole connects to the front of the boat, the boat servers as the &quot;trailer frame&quot; with a canoe dolly (wheels that attach to the boat for moving by hand) for wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solution 2 offers the advantage of less material and more a portable trailering solution.  With this solution the bike and trailer easily fit in most canoes, so you have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/6948/how-to-carry-a-bicycle-in-a-canoe&quot;&gt;fully amphibious combination&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any significant safety considerations when towing with a bike from a higher or a lower tow connection on the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14181" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:48:00.067" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T14:54:50.147" Title="What are the safety concerns of a high vs a low mount trailer hitch?" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13907" CreationDate="2014-10-25T11:02:21.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be better of if you compare ERTO-measures for your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 26 × 1 1/2 (= 26x1.5) is a 40 - 584 in ERTO, which is 40mm wide and 584mm in diameter.&#xA;A 26 x 1,75 is ERTO 47 - 559 which is wider an has a smaller diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern tubes tend to cover a wider range of tire sizes. Not everyone appreciates this. If the tube fits without folds it will do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14182" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T11:02:21.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25279" CreationDate="2014-10-25T12:19:29.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general advice is that we should aim at 90 for an average cadence, and pushing slower than that can produce knee pain and injuries, and back pain and injuries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, everyone has their own best cadence. For example, I have not raced and find 110rpm is good for me on a flat-ish ride. My brother who has raced stays at around 120rpm on the same terrain. I find I'm changing gears if my cadence drops to 100, unless I'm on a long hill greater than about 6%, when I drop below 100rpm with my 39x26 lowest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Climbing ability is a combination of your strength, endurance, and the gearing. Cadence enables the delivery of &lt;em&gt;higher&lt;/em&gt; power. As one example, look at runners - sprinters aim for high step rates. For a cycling example, look at sprinters on the track or at the end of a road race. They also aim for high cadence. Going back to my personal examples, I can push to 180rpm in a sprint, and my brother passes 200rpm. Cadence is where the power is. If the cadence is too low on a hill, then we need better gearing to get back to where the power is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cadence is also where the muscular endurance is. For a given speed, at 50rpm your legs are pushing twice as hard as my legs at 100rpm (all else being equal). So my legs are generating half the power per revolution than yours. Cutting a long story short, the legs working harder will tire more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cadence is supported by your cardiovascular capacity. A good cadence is where your performance is within your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerobic_exercise#Aerobic_capacity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aerobic capacity&lt;/a&gt;. This is essential for endurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your headline question -&lt;em&gt;no, increased cadence &lt;strong&gt;should not&lt;/strong&gt; hurt your climbing strength&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the caveat is your mention of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interval_training&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;interval training&lt;/a&gt;. Interval training is about increasing your power and lactate threshold, not cadence. It does this by going faster for short periods, requiring you to work at or above your aerobic capacity. While valuable for developing endurance, it is not about training for cadence. Cadence training requires pushing a light load (for example rollers or riding behind or scooter) for long periods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, using the calculations provided by R Chung in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/18727/8273&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, suggest that your sprint on a 12% hill is producing close to 2kW. If your figures are correct, then that suggests you should be racing :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T12:19:29.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25277" CreationDate="2014-10-25T12:28:58.253" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot draw any conclusions from one ride. Especially when your have ridden triple the distance of your previous longest ride. Anyone would expect some discomfort in that situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding recovery, it should have started during the ride. By this I mean you should have made sure you ate periodically and drank frequently. Some things that can help recovery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a massage by a sport masseur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;catching up on fluids&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a good meal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a good sleep&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20629/what-is-a-recovery-ride&quot;&gt;recovery ride&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stretches before your muscles cool completely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and (I previously omitted) a cool-down period before you stop exercising. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;also, sports compression garments (especially shorts in this case) will help your muscles recover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T03:38:09.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25276" CreationDate="2014-10-25T13:17:22.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to check with the manufacturer of your bars (and the grips you're choosing), but in most cases its not a problem. As with all things carbon fiber, don't over tighten anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some manufacturers have specific grips which are marketed as carbon fiber friendly. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hxaGEjOZW8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Easton's lock on grips&lt;/a&gt; are marketed as being friendly with carbon bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is a bit different than using bar ends - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/service/faq/service/will-ergon-grips-work-on-my-carbon-fiber-handle-bar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ergon&lt;/a&gt; notes that their bar ends are not safe for CF bars, but their non-bar end grips are safe for CF bars (they also have some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ergon-bike.com/us/en/service/faq/service/my-ergon-grips-slip-on-my-carbon-fiber-handle-bar--what-can-i-do&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;suggestions&lt;/a&gt; on what to do if your grips slip). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T13:17:22.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25290" CreationDate="2014-10-25T16:45:06.300" Score="3" ViewCount="11502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a 12-30t rear cassette which needs replacing.   While I'm at it, I really want to switch to an 11 tooth to get the extra 9% in top speed.  But the problem is, even the most expensive (e.g. Ultegra) component that will work with my bike only goes up to 11-28, and if I stick to Tiagra I'm stuck with 11-25.  For long steep hills on an off day, it's really nice to have the 30 tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my second thought was, the bottom 2 or 3 cogs usually aren't fixed to the cassette, they are individual cogs that can come off.  So maybe I could get a 12-30 replacement, and then a single 11t cog to replace the 12t or maybe I could even drop the 13t so the stepping goes 11-12-14.  This would be ideal as I use the 12t and 14t heavily but I virtually never use the 13t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can see, I would also need an 11t lock ring.  I'm having a difficult time finding both a lock ring and an 11t cog which claims to be compatible.  For instance, I found one cog which claimed to only work various cassettes which were already 11-xx and which were 2-3 grades above my Tiagra components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev/EV-CS-4600-3143.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this PDF file on the Tiagra CS-4600&lt;/a&gt; which suggests I need part Y1YF01000 (&quot;Lock Ring for 11T Top Gear&quot;), and Y1Z81100N (&quot;Sprocket Wheel 11T (Built in spacer type)&quot;).  But I can't find anywhere (for instance Amazon or Google Shopping) to buy these part numbers or the corresponding parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T11:35:51.800" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T14:10:01.900" Title="Can I replace only the smallest cog on my rear cassette?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25289" CreationDate="2014-10-25T18:18:53.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can replace the smallest cogs on cassette.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For example see Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Building custom cassette&lt;/a&gt; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, Shimano doesn't make any true &quot;corncob&quot; (one-tooth-jump)&#xA;  cassettes for time-trialists or flatland riders. In 7 speed, the&#xA;  closest is the J (13/14/15/16/17/19/21).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you remove the 21-tooth sprocket from a J, you can make it into a&#xA;  13-19 corncob by buying an 18 to put between the 17 and the 19.&#xA;  Alternately, you could make it into a 12-18 by removing the 19 and the&#xA;  21, and adding a 12 and an 18.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also about MTB &amp;amp; Road compatibility:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Road&quot; vs &quot;Mountain&quot; Hubs There is no interchangeability issue between&#xA;  &quot;Road&quot; vs &quot;Mountain&quot; cassettes and hubs as long as the number of&#xA;  sprockets matches. Although &quot;Road&quot; and &quot;Mountain&quot; hubs are no&#xA;  different as far as cassette fitting is concerned, they are different&#xA;  in terms of overall spacing. &quot;Road&quot; hubs generally use 130 mm spacing,&#xA;  while &quot;mountain&quot; hubs are 135 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Mountain&quot; hubs will likely be slightly better sealed against dirt and&#xA;  mud than &quot;road&quot; hubs, but this is rarely an issue in practice. The&#xA;  wider 135 mm spacing will generally result in a slightly stronger&#xA;  wheel due to reduced dishing of the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T14:10:01.900" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T14:10:01.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25310" CreationDate="2014-10-25T20:04:55.943" Score="0" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never raced but there is a cyclocross race at a park near me next weekend.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All it said is some sand and some drop offs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like some advice on selecting a bike and setting it up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Bianchi Cylcocross Concept and Salsa La Cruz Ti. &#xA;They are both Ultegra and greared the same 48/39  12-28. &#xA;Both cantilever and weigh about the same.&#xA;The concept is my workout bike and the Salsa by daily banger / commuter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Concept feels faster but the Salsa feels more stable.&#xA;I also feel like the Salsa can take a crash better. &#xA;So my thought is the Salsa.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take it they race with cleats? &#xA;For a first race should I cleat. &#xA;I am comfortable with cleats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have touring tires on them now but I have some Conti 32 Twister. &#xA;Would they be OK? &#xA;Would I run them at max pressure? &#xA;I weigh 165.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a Niner Air 9 Carbon single speed mountain bike with carbon fork, disc brakes, and tubeless.&#xA;I am not comfortable on big drop off on my cyclcross. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rode the park on four set ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 32 mm it was just too fast for me. &#xA;There are some downhills with rocks that I would need to run at max pressure and even not in a group picking my line I was not comfortable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Air 9 was super stable but not very fast. &#xA;I rode the park 15 minutes each direction and if the long hill is uphill then the single speed is not geared correctly but I am pretty sure they will have us ride down that hill.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Salsa with 38 mm small block at mid pressure felt stable but still has a speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as cleats.  I would not want to ride the downhills without em.  Getting bounced hard enough that need bike attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T12:30:17.763" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T00:13:10.847" Title="First cyclocross race - how to choose and set up the bike" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25309" CreationDate="2014-10-25T20:17:33.963" Score="3" ViewCount="1513" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next weekend there is a cyclocross race at a park near my house. &#xA;My first organized bicycle race ever.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like advice / links on strategy, rules, and protocol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am over 50, in good bicycle shape, and comfortable on trails.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a bicycle daily and take a 45-75 minute workout ride at least 3 days as week.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So I am pretty comfortable with what I can do in 45 minutes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is to try and hold with the leaders as long a possible.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it only 5 minutes then so be it but I want to know what that pace is.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How do I even know which riders are in my age group? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect I will be lapped.  How do I deal with that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a links to the event information   &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.txbra.org/db/events/2014BCRCX2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2014BCRCX2&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.usacycling.org/register/2014-3267&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;register&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-28T18:53:56.790" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T02:07:00.063" Title="First cyclocross race - strategy" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25282" CreationDate="2014-10-25T20:28:34.173" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The higher the hitch the easier it is for the trailer to push the bike sideways or lift the rear wheel of the bike under braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the high hitch you can generally only do one of turning and braking at a time. So if there's a problem and you need to swerve and brake to avoid it, you will end up lying on the road with a canoe on top of you. And a bicycle. And a trailer. And they will all still be moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to disconnect the rear brake of the bicycle and use that lever to operate the the trailer brake, but few people do that because it's not trivial and in practice it's not really necessary. Most people find that the &quot;tow my canoe&quot; rig is big, heavy and unwieldly, so they only actually tow for short distances on flat ground. That makes riding slowly and carefully quite practical, and often they can choose quiet streets as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other option is a three or four wheel trailer which you could do as a rear dolly and a front, pivoting pair of wheels. Handling will be better than a central dolly if you can work out how to attach the front solidly to the canoe. Or have a spine to the trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is much more important for touring trailers and work trailers, where the distances covered are greater and there are fewer opportunities to avoid bad roads. That means the consequences of a crash are more severe as well. But at the point where you're building a trailer with brakes and suspension (because there are 4 wheels) it becomes worthwhile modifying the towing vehicle as well. Most people start down that path and end up with with a trike as the load vehicle or the towing vehicle, or a quad bike. It's much simpler to build and ride a single vehicle than a trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/23209/7044&quot;&gt;Burning Man Trailer&lt;/a&gt; one deal with the general details of heavily loaded trailers. It's also worth mentioning Richard Guy Briggs and his &lt;a href=&quot;http://tricolour.net/gtvs6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;canoe carrying tricycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T20:28:34.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-26T00:12:07.263" Score="0" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a usa cycling road racer. I just got a recommended lube Pedros Ice Wax. I ride about 100 miles a week. How often should I lube my chain with it and how often should I clean it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14187" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T00:12:07.263" Title="How often should I lube with Pedros Ice Wax?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-10-27T14:00:28.783" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5619" CreationDate="2014-10-26T01:41:34.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The boss spacing changed from 60 mm to 80 mm with the advent of mountain bikes which use wider wheels.  60mm is the spacing the Dia Compes were made for.  What you need are cantilevers made for the narrower spacing with an adjustment for spring tension.  Avid Shorty Ultimates are adjustable and their wide setting works well with 60 mm post spacing.  Spring tension is also adjustable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good condition narrowly spaced cantilever brakes are readily available on eBay for not a whole lot of money. Dia Compe 981's are easily sourced. I just bought a set for $35 shipped&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14188" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T15:35:38.580" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T15:35:38.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25279" CreationDate="2014-10-26T01:53:48.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple way to think of cadence is the higher, the more cardio. The lower the cadence the less used cardio and more power used in the legs. If you're used to a lower cadence, it means you aren't used to working your cardio as much. Anywhere near the 80 range is a perfect balanced work out for your muscles and cardio. Plus, too low of a cadence can bad for your knees. I'm a junior racer so I have to get the junior cassette so I won't blow out my knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14187" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T01:53:48.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25298" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-26T01:54:28.170" Score="12" ViewCount="32713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to do all my own work on my bike, and with other forks and shocks I've had, I've been able to find the necessary service manuals and specialty tools to overhaul the systems myself at the end of the season. Now I have a Specialized Epic with front and rear Brain suspension. My local Specialized shop tells me that the only way to get the fork rebuilt is to have the shop send it to Specialized for their elite mechanics to service it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried servicing these Brain systems on their on? Any resources to point to? Or is it just a hopeless endeavor and I'll forever be tied to swallowing my pride and paying for someone else to work on my bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14178" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T20:34:53.493" LastActivityDate="2017-04-29T14:41:46.273" Title="Is it possible to service Specialized Brain suspension systems at home?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25279" CreationDate="2014-10-26T03:11:52.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not lose climbing strength if you work on your cadence; they are two different aspects of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation to increase cadence range is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) On a slight incline, choose a gear that is medium effort. &#xA;2) Over 30 seconds, increase your cadence until you are at your maximum smooth cadence (no bouncing). If your effort is too light, you need a higher gear; if it's too hard, you need a lower gear.&#xA;3) Hold for 30 seconds&#xA;4) Slow your cadence down for 30 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat three times. Do this once a week. This is primarily a neuromuscular exercise, so you don't need to do this too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T03:11:52.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25301" CreationDate="2014-10-26T12:31:56.930" Score="2" ViewCount="10187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/allez-elite-c2-2014-road-bike-ec053024&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specialized Allez Elite road bike&lt;/a&gt;, purchased brand new in June this year. So far I've covered around 300 miles in total on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my ride yesterday, as I was going up a slight hill, I switched to the smaller front chain ring. As I did this, I heard a sickening crunch, pedals jammed, looked down to find one of the gear changing parts is jammed into the back chain rings and chain has come off. Luckily I managed to get onto the footpath and dismount without any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about bikes so have provided an image of the damage:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eg9hU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone advise on what parts will need replacing? Also, how can I prevent this from happening again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8590" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T12:57:18.277" Title="What causes the rear hanger to snap off?" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25300" CreationDate="2014-10-26T12:57:18.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The derailleur is not a particularly strong part, and in fact when it/its hanger breaks it can often save your frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some common reasons for it breaking are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hitting an obstacle (e.g. tree branch)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Going into the spokes (badly set low limit screw or the derailleur was wobbling enough for some reason to get caught in the spokes)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain too short.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is buy a new compatible derailleur [e.g. whatever was spec'd on it before] (and possibly a derailleur hanger as well). Then you need to get the hanger alignment checked out (using something like the Park Tool DAG-2). Then, get the spokes checked to see if they have taken any damage and have adequate tension (you will likely want to ask a bike shop about this). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the protector disc (plastic) is still in tact without any damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T12:57:18.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25311" CreationDate="2014-10-26T16:35:29.937" Score="3" ViewCount="1053" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2009&amp;amp;brand=Specialized&amp;amp;model=Allez+Sport+C2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2009 Specialized Allez Sport C2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When pedaling (actually only under load, not when just turning the crank while it's on a stand) the bottom bracket squeaks or chirps. I first thought it was birds chirping;  then I realized they were remarkably regular in their chirping.  Then I realized it was my bike. The sound has definitely gotten worse over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I be looking at in terms of fixing this?  Do I need to replace the bottom bracket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14189" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-10-26T17:00:27.660" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T03:26:37.747" Title="Squeaking / Chirping while pedaling" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-10-28T12:34:39.723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-26T17:09:50.363" Score="2" ViewCount="1332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to remove the handlebar and stem of my bike in order to be replace them. The bike has got a BMX stem and the top cap bolt is spinning freely in both clock and counterclockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea on how to proceed to take it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14190" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T18:43:48.573" Title="Can´t remove BMX stem top cap bolt (won´t loosen)" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-26T17:59:02.633" Score="1" ViewCount="7036" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike is stuck in 7th gear. The front three gears shift fine, but the back does not. It shifts fine when no one is on it, but as soon as you put weight on it, it no longer will shift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14191" LastEditorUserId="2583" LastEditDate="2014-10-26T22:24:49.130" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T10:19:03.783" Title="My bike won't shift out of 7th gear in the back" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25277" CreationDate="2014-10-26T21:49:39.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should there be any steps I take to recover myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on what is your goal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you want to ride hard the next day, too? Then absolutely, there is a full spectrum of options to speed up the recovery, as in the comment of andy256. The most important are probably a good meal and a good sleep. Avoid alcohol, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't care so much about riding hard the next day? Thirty something miles is little more than a warm-up to more experienced cyclists... just live your life normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also what things should I inspect on the MTB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no reason to suspect a specific problem, there is no need to inspect anything in particular. Like usual, before next ride, check the tire pressure maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I noticed that during my ride there was sometimes pain in my lower back ... should I be moving the seat forward or backward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Typically&lt;/em&gt; lower back pain indicates a too-stretched out position on the bike, so you may try to move your seat forward. It's also possible you have a bike that's too large for you. But like Daniel R. Hicks said, a single observation is not enough to draw definite conclusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T21:49:39.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25292" CreationDate="2014-10-27T00:40:36.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go and have fun and experience it all, you wont win, you most likely will be lapped and that is ok, they only pull people off course in the pro/elite ranks and even then not always, you'll just finish a lap down. In the races I do, when lapped, I'll end up  with a finish time that is shorter than the winner, but I only did 5 laps to their 6. The organizer/timer figures all that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In larger events, they will run Men under 40, Men 40-50, Men 50+ in one race with 1 minute gaps between the starting gun. Also, at the races I do, they try to keep the numbers somewhat recognizable. Men under 40 200-299, Men 40-50 500-600, Men 50+ 800-900, but again it really doesn't matter too much, go race, go hard, blow up and hold on to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The start times for the races I've done start the beginners category 'C' in the early race, then run an all women race, then short break for short kids race, followed by category 'B' and finishing with the 'A' race. I've never done road races, but the 'A' guys are Cat 1/2, 'B' Cat 3-ish and 'C' the beginners. Even if you are a Cat 1 racer, I would enter one or two Beginner races to gain experience on the mud, getting on/off your bike, riding sand pits, slow 180 degree turns, accelerations and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to catch the slower guys under 40 and try not to get caught by the 50+ guys, much more fun when you are 'in the mix' but I enjoy every race and learn from it to gain bike handling skills, tactics, endurance, and friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far links and rules, I would just check with the race you are planning to go to, find the website to check how they start each category. Some races require a USAC license (US Racer?) my local races don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T00:40:36.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25291" CreationDate="2014-10-27T00:54:08.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cyclocross tires are 33-35mm and with tubulars (glued to the rim) many will run very low pressures (20-22 psi). I run 35mm clinchers and get to each race early to pre-ride a lap or two to dial in my pressure, typically will run 28-34 psi depending on how rocky the course is, I don't want to pinch flat, but really like the lower pressure as each lap it typically gets more and more muddy and you want the grip, especially on the off camber sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleats or no cleats is going to be more about your comfort getting in and out as you will get on/off the bike to carry up stairs/run-ups, through sand pits and barriers. This is about speed getting unclicked and clicked back in and right up to speed. Search on You Tube for cyclocross mounting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did not mention disc brakes, but with rim brakes, the sand will mix with the mud and wear your brake surface. If short and fast I'll ride the sand pits, if running I carry my bike, so go with the lighter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many courses have run-ups and barriers to carry your bike, so go with the lighter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many races have a 'pit' area for you to leave extra wheels, or even a different bike, so bring both bikes, get there early take a lap on each and race the one you like better. Put the other bike in the pits and switch if you get a mechanical or pinch flat. If this happens far away from the pits, you must run the course with your broken bike - you cannot leave course and take a shortcut, fix or switch and then get back on course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T00:54:08.257" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25302" CreationDate="2014-10-27T03:26:37.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;squeaks&quot; can come from a lot of places in the bike - they're transmitted surprisingly well - which helps them escape detection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it corresponds with pedal strokes, then you're probably looking at the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottom bracket - regrease and tighten to spec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedals - regrease and tighten to spec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cleats - tighten to spec&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a process of elimination - e.g. see if it happens when you're only putting down power with one foot. Or see if it happens only when standing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not all the time, but only when you're standing, then it could be something in your steering (i.e. change in body position makes it worse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10278" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T03:26:37.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25317" CreationDate="2014-10-27T06:26:52.910" Score="1" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;i was searching online for a product online but couldn't find anything.There are a lot of people creating new stuffs on crowd-funding projects like on kickstarter. I was wondering if if it is possible to have a cover on the derailleur system on a bicycle to avoid regular cleaning for the bike derailleurs,cassetes,chain,cogs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="2043" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T06:48:34.040" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T13:56:22.057" Title="Is it possible to have a cover over your chain,cassette,derailleur and cogs to avoid regular cleaning?" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25316" CreationDate="2014-10-27T10:51:43.853" Score="2" ViewCount="3375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was adjusting my rear shifting following the advice in this video: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZTprZHCwoNc?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was when I took off the wire tension and screwed the high limit all the way out that the chain wouldn't make it to the toughest gear. Instead it was stuck at the second-toughest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems that even without the wire pulling on the derailleur, it is too far on the left (i.e. towards the easier gears). What could I try to track down the problem, or better, what exactly is causing this and how can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was then continuing to adjust the derailleur, making the chain switch to my second-toughest gear when I try to shift to the toughest gear with the shifter at my handlebars and making the chain switch to my easiest gear when I try to shift to my second-easiest gear. This worked fine and the chain is currently not skipping gears on its way up or down, it just can't reach the toughest gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14199" LastEditorUserId="14199" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T11:50:41.867" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T01:38:46.783" Title="Rear shifting - Unable to shift to toughest gear" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25315" CreationDate="2014-10-27T11:47:19.570" Score="1" ViewCount="1277" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me whether the visible part of the logo on the frame is a decal or a pain directly on the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's a decal, then where can one get a custom decal with a metallic finish?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's a paint job, what are the techniques to achieve this?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vOekP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13765" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T12:48:53.737" Title="Decal or paint?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25314" CreationDate="2014-10-27T12:48:53.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's possible to tell from the picture, but if it's a decal, you should be able to tell as it would probably be slightly raised from the surface of the rest of the frame.  If you want a decal of similar style, contact a print or advertising company in your area (or find one online), many of them are able to make custom decals. My highschool even had the machinery for cutting custom vinyl decals, so you might want to check with local highschools or college (preferably one with a graphic design programme) to see if you can get one done by a student for cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's painted on, this basic method for accomplishing this is to apply the different colours in layers.  Since the frame is black, they would most likely apply the black first. Then they would apply a mask that would block out all the parts they want to remain black, and put on the next color.  The same would be done for all subsequent colours.  Then they would apply a clear coat on top for protecting the paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T12:48:53.737" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25313" CreationDate="2014-10-27T13:52:28.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do with any rear derailleur problem is to check if its bent. If it is bent, go to your LBS and see if it can be unbent (there is a special tool for checking unbent-ness, Park Tool DAG-2 or similar) -- bent derailleurs cannot be adjusted properly in most cases (and even a minor spill can cause a bent derailleur). If its not bent, then try adjusting it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't reach the smallest cog with the cable released (assuming a typical non-rapid rise derailleur, i.e. one which goes to the smallest with no cable tension), it likely means your high limit screw is mis-adjusted (too tight). [Typically, the problem upshifting into the smallest cog is usually a bent derailleur/cable friction, but you should have eliminated those two options before you got to this]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some good tutorials for adjusting derailleurs are &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park tool&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T13:52:28.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25312" CreationDate="2014-10-27T13:56:22.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its quite tricky with a derailleur geared bike, due to well, the derailleur having to move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common solution to this is either to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Run single speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Run an internal gear hub &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both options can be run with a chain case &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M0lra.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chaincase&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which can cut down on some of the maintenance (but does make things like changing the flat or occasional lubrications a bit more annoying). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belt drives can also be run in configurations (1),(2), and are supposed to have less maintenance, but you need a more special frame since belts cannot be cut to be installed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T13:56:22.057" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-27T14:27:35.267" Score="3" ViewCount="1623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been commuting on a mountain bike these past 3 years. Now I want to get into road bike racing. Is it worth saving up money over a few months for a carbon fibre bike? Or should I just go and buy a good quality aluminum bike tomorrow? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14200" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T17:59:23.683" Title="Carbon fibre vs aluminium for racing" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-27T14:36:19.117" Score="-1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build a bicycle but I'm lacking the facilities to do a paint job etc at my place. I want to use an online 'build a bike' website but one that offers a great selection o colours, accessories and frames. I thought about buying lots of individual parts and assembling but it looks rather expensive. &#xA;Anyway thanks for your help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rich&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14201" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T17:55:12.387" Title="Building a bicycle using a service" Tags="&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-10-27T20:25:25.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25291" CreationDate="2014-10-27T14:46:57.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a note about tire width, UCI use to allow 35mm width tires, they recently (in the last few years) decreased that to 33mm.  Odds are this won't have any influence on the races you are doing, but 34mm use to be a very popular cross size for racing.  Now there are leftover 34mm cross tires on sale lots of places because they can't be used in UCI races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13925" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T14:46:57.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25303" CreationDate="2014-10-27T17:44:54.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that either the star fangled nut itself is spinning or the inserted threads in the nut are spinning.  If you take off the front wheel and look up the steerer tube can you see the nut?  Is it spinning?  It it is spinning just stick a long screw driver up there to hold it in place while you take out the top cap bolt.  You can hammer in a new star fangled nut on top of the old broken one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13925" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T17:44:54.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25319" CreationDate="2014-10-27T17:55:12.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some companies have a decent selection of bikes which you can configure and customize with their frames (or a small subset of other people's frames) -- Some of these are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/default.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rivendell&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://publicbikes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Public&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Peter White Cycles&lt;/a&gt; and similar. The frame and color selection is typically quite limited though (to the frames that the company makes), and generally more expensive than comparable (when applicable) pre-built bicycles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to have full customizability, you'll generally have to select out the parts (including the frame (custom-designed or off the shelf)) individually and then put them together on your own. If you want custom coloring on a frame, generally, you have to find a shop which can paint it (or powder coat it or something -- note that aluminum and carbon frames are harder to re-color than steel frames). Then, go to your local bike shop and have them put together the parts you selected. There are so many frames and what not out there that I don't think anyone can offer anything but a small selection of bikes within reason as pre-built. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this generally requires some expertise - you need to know what size frame you want and what parts are compatible and will fit you. So, if you choose to do the full custom route, its best to do it with the assistance of a bike shop if you don't know what you're doing. Also, expect to spend at least thousand on this (typically significantly more than this), if you choose to pursue this route (even without a respray or powder coating of a frame). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to start with a bike you mostly like, and replace what you don't like. This is far more economical in most cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T17:55:12.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25318" CreationDate="2014-10-27T19:59:21.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two answers to this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Money no object)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go out and buy yourself a carbon frame with all the trimmings. If you want to race, there is no better hardware option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Money important)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you say you haven't even begun to race yet. How do you know you'll like it? How do you know you'll be any good? If you go down a carbon route, you're talking about a serious investment which could possibly end up gathering dust in your garage. Frankly, you should consider a steel bike at this stage. When you're losing races because of the weight of the bike, then it's time to upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful with something like bike racing, it will eat up your every last penny if you're not careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T19:59:21.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24675" CreationDate="2014-10-27T23:01:01.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the other comments said, it's often not a good idea to reuse spokes and even nipples. I would be more inclined to simply buy a flip-flop hub and lace that to the old rim with new spokes and nipples. Remembering that different spokes have different properties and can be chosen depending on the bike, rider and what the bike will be used for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right about a larger flange equalling shorter spokes and so forming a stronger wheel, but today's spokes are pretty strong regardless of their length so hub flange diameter is maybe not as important a factor today for building a strong wheel as it was before. However a lighter hub won't always build the fastest wheel. For that to be the case you're better to use a light rim and alloy nipples as these will have the greatest impact on the wheel's acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, you should find on a geared rear hub at least, that the spokes on the drive side will be shorter than those on the non-drive side as the mid point between the two hub flanges is not the same mid point as the mid point of the axle, due to the addition of the cassette and freehub body on the drive side. So to have the rim sit centrally over the AXLE (wheel dish) the spokes on the drive side will always be shorter than those on the non-drive side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to check how to measure flange diameter or ERD etc this website has a really good tool &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14002" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T23:01:01.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25313" CreationDate="2014-10-27T23:09:30.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as Batman said, check the derailleur is not bent. If it isn't, but you still can't get the smallest cog I'd be looking to check if the mech hanger is bent. But if you're bike shop is checking the alignment of the mech, they should be able to spot if the mech hanger is bent or twisted at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you get it sorted!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14002" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T23:09:30.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9475" CreationDate="2014-10-28T00:40:49.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for what wheel to choose, well that's such a complex combination of factors, hard to provide a simple answer.  I outlined some of the considerations when weighing up choices in my blog post I linked to in an earlier comment on this thread:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They involve a range of factors, including, inter alia (and not in any particular order):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;durability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aerodynamics (in low and higher yaw conditions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheel mass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ability to stay round and true&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lateral stiffness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repair-ability and service cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;warranty support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suitability for the purpose/race/riding situation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;braking demands (and issues with brake pad choice, long downhill braking scenarios and wet weather)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;handling characteristics (cornering, cross winds)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;available tyre choices (and level of difficulty in changing tyres/tubes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bearing and freehub quality etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rules of competition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suitability for the bike (e.g. will it fit?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sex appeal / bling factor&#xA;and so on.....&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then one needs to weigh up those factors and apply their own personal judgement as to which factors matter most and fits within their budget. That will of course be different for everyone. It's no wonder wheel manufacturers have a field day with all the various possible points of difference available when marketing their wares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T00:40:49.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-28T06:31:14.740" Score="0" ViewCount="1220" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can any one let me know what is the exact use of GPS/Elevation on Bike computers&#xA;(EDGE 500,510 or TIMEX 2.0)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride with a SIGMA BC 16.12 (with CADENCE) and POLAR HRM. I check my elevation using STRAVA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason that i can think of is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;all these data collated onto one graph for post ride analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the above reason, is there any advantage of GPS/Elevation detail during the ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14090" LastEditorUserId="14090" LastEditDate="2014-10-28T06:49:54.153" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T19:07:08.967" Title="What is the use of GPS/Elevation on Bike computers" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25328" CreationDate="2014-10-28T07:51:14.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find when climbing that horizontal speed is fairly meaningless but vertical speed can be quite helpful for keeping you going and/or interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you know a climb is 1000m and your computer says whatever-kmh, you've no idea what that means without maths and knowing the gradient, 1000vmh means an hour to go, 500vmh, 2 hours... and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T07:51:14.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25328" CreationDate="2014-10-28T08:13:35.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever had that &quot;this has to.... be the top.... oh sh$%.... it's a crest.... there's more....&quot; feeling. Knowing altitude lets you pace your climb and arrive the the top without over (or under) doing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine riding flat roads without knowing speed or distance - it can be done, but to maximize training effort or race performance you need to know speed/distance on the flat and altitude/climb rate on the hills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T08:13:35.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25333" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-28T15:47:51.033" Score="3" ViewCount="2711" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can that be changed? Is it just convention? Is there any commercial bike that comes with a left-shifter that switches cogs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8824" LastEditorUserId="8824" LastEditDate="2014-10-28T15:54:07.840" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T17:38:39.300" Title="why do left shifters switch chainrings and right shifters cogs?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25340" CreationDate="2014-10-28T15:58:41.377" Score="1" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear wheel suddenly became loose in traffic today. It is completely off axis. The axle looks fine from the outside. I remember being told something about loose cones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I bother to repair this beater bike or should I invest in a road bike? This is a department store mountain bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes I took apart the rear brake because I thought that was the source of the problem ... (I.e that's not something that broke) ... Risky I know ... But I had kool stop salmons on the front so I thought that would provide sufficient stopping power. Nonetheless the wheel kept grinding against the frame as you can see in the picture so I stopped again and realized the wheel was completely off center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VKeKk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aqNzd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g6q2Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastEditorUserId="14039" LastEditDate="2014-10-28T17:09:03.937" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:34:13.990" Title="Catastrophic failure" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25334" CreationDate="2014-10-28T17:05:56.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely the source of the wheel going loose was loose nut. Department store bikes are not likely to have quick release which is safer because it does not become loose with time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the wheel back and screw it on tightly. Don't forget to check the front wheel too, because if that goes loose the consequences will be very unfortunate.&#xA;The wheel on the picture looks off centre which is likely because it is not properly in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is whether you need need to invest into more serious bike. If cycling is interesting to you, the answer is definitely yes. Just don't buy those bicycle-like objects in department stores anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T17:05:56.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25292" CreationDate="2014-10-28T18:19:04.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;CX is a blast! It is also a 30 to 55 minute sufferfest of intense aerobic effort where your heart will be exploding out of your chest, your lungs will sear and your legs will be screaming at you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this is your first race ever, if this is a USAC sanctioned race and they have a pure category '5' race that is the one you want to ride in as it will just be other beginner men. Barring that, look for a category 4/5 or better yet a category 4/5 35+ race. If the 40+, 50+, 60+ race is an 'open' race (meaning any category of racer can enter) I would shy away from it as there will be cat 1, 2 and 3 racers in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The day before the race get all your stuff ready. Make sure you have appropriate clothes for the weather plus your helmet, your shoes, water bottle with whatever sort of hydration you do, energy gels etc. If the weather is poor consider bringing a towel to dry off with and an extra complete change of clothes for post-race. Again, if it is going to be wet or muddy consider bringing a few plastic bags to put your muddy and wet shows and clothes in. Also, take your bottle cages off the bike to make it easier to shoulder in the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day of, try getting to the race early in the day (ideally an hour or more before the first race of the day takes place) so you can pre-ride the course a few times. Don't try to crush it when pre-riding the course. Instead focus on learning what line to take through different sections of the course, how you are going handle off-camber sections, how you will handle run-ups and the barriers, where is there going to be a bottleneck during the first lap etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are pre-riding, if there is a section that gives you problems or you don't feel comfortable with, ride just that section multiple times until you have a game plan for it. As you are doing all this remember that for some sections the fastest solution may be to get off your bike and run with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you are doing this also watch other riders. How are they handling different parts of the course? How are they dismounting/mounting their bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you pick up your number before registration closes for your race. Make sure you pin it on the correct side. Use 6 pins. Don't pin through the holes in the numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you are warmed up before the start of the race. After you've warmed up hydrate. If your normally consume gels, gummies or other energy food while cycling consume your normal dose while hydrating. If you don't normally consume gels, don't do so now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Show up to race staging 10 to 15 minutes before the start of your race. If it is cold or wet outside try to stay warm and dry by wearing a jacket to staging and discarding it when the officials start staging the race. Listen to what the official say prior to the race start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the race, as Glenn Gervis says in his answer, you most likely won't win, you might be lapped but that is ok. Go out and do the best you can, don't fret the barriers and run-ups, if you crash, skid out get run into don't panic, just pick yourself out and continue. When you put your bike down after going over a barrier or shouldering it on a run-up make sure you place it back on the ground gently so you don't drop the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find yourself a ways back in the race focus on the closest person in front of you and make it a race between you and that person. Where does he slow down? Maybe he is slowly riding that muddy off-camber uphill section and you can run it and pick up time on him. Once you pass him switch your focus on the next person in front of you. When you are right behind someone remember pass, don't pace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the leaders come up behind you don't interfere with their progress. At the same time that doesn't mean you need to stop. Just kind of pull off to the side a little and let them by.&#xA;Make sure you check your results as soon as they are posted. If you think they are wrong, calmly talk to the officials about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T18:19:04.683" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-28T20:14:24.370" Score="10" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm participating in my first ever bike race this weekend. It's a cyclocross race, and I'm riding a full suspension mountain bike, because I started looking into races late this season and a fully is what I've got. Is there anything specific to know/look out for since I'm not riding a cyclocross bike? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14215" LastActivityDate="2020-08-02T23:16:19.280" Title="First Cyclocross Race - Riding a Mountain Bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25328" CreationDate="2014-10-28T20:55:02.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the answers above, vertical measurement increases the gps accuracy of your x/y coordinates.  If a GPS unit has terrain data stored, it will be able to have a more confident match for its stated x/y coordinates based on the addition of that extra altitude variable. For example, if the unit has two possible coordinates for you, one being a 55% match and the other being 45%, then you will get placed at the first point with low confidence. If the altitude of those two points matches closely to your altitude variable read, then the unit can select a point with much more confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14216" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T12:47:12.883" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T12:47:12.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25334" CreationDate="2014-10-28T21:13:57.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks to me that the axle need to be re-built. It may just have loosened the cones, but there is also a slight chance of axle being bent, and/or ball bearings destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't panic, on cheap hubs that is not big deal. They are relatively easy to service and the spares are cheap. In my country, a modest bike shop would charge the equivalent to US$ 3-5 for re-packing the hub. The axle and ball bearings can be around US$ 2-3 too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not very difficult to resolve &quot;DIY&quot; for the mechanically inclined, but you may need a cone wrench and maybe a cassette removal tool. Both are available either cheap (good for a couple of uses a year) or good quality (good for workshop use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hub service basically implies removing the wheel completely from the bike, unscrewing the axle completely, inspecting it, and the cones, races, bearings. Cleaning up the old grease, and reassembling again with fresh grease and replacing any damaged part, properly adjusting the cones, re-installing the cassette (if it was removed) and putting the wheel back on the bike. Work for 1h to 1h:30m for a novice, having the tools and parts at hand. An experienced bike mechanic in a shop may take 30-40 min.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Servicing a cheap hub that is still in good condition, provided that you can find the cheap spares is a good compromise, and keeping a beater bike (or a bike-shaped-object) in good condition can be a good thing if you use it for commuting short distances on places where there is risk of the bike getting stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you want to commute seriously, or bike for sports, then it is wise to invest in a good bike (a used one in good condition if on a budget). Consider the type of riding you want to practice and the distance you want to travel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:34:13.990" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:34:13.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25328" CreationDate="2014-10-28T21:29:51.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Historical Contingency&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking to history earlier versions (e.g., Garmin &lt;a href=&quot;https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/into-sports/discontinued/edge-305/prod331.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Edge 305&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://buy.garmin.com/en-CA/CA/into-sports/discontinued/edge-705/prod10885.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Edge 705&lt;/a&gt;) came with barometers for elevation.  This was long before Strava, and during a time when you did all the analyses on your own computer.  Some analysis software supported getting elevation data from other sources, others didn't.  And at the time accurate and free elevation maps were not as ubiquitous.  In terms of marketing, when you release the next generation of devices  (e.g., Edge 800, 810, 1000 etc)  it may not look good removing features as people love to compare specs without thinking about why they may need a spec. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Some Real World Uses&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I used to race, I found getting real time road grades helpful. One example that stands out was a long false flat on one course (a false flat, looks flat but has a subtle elevation gain).  Physiologically it was demoralizing.  I found being able to confirm I was on a false flat by looking at the grade output helped greatly as it gave me the confidence to attack hard even though I felt slow.  The attack proved instrumental, securing a solo breakaway win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In touring I loved being able to track my total elevation gain for the day.  It helps to put a slow day in perspective (if you are trying to cover large distances), or tuned me into cutting a day short due to the volume of climbing.  Often you don't have access to the internet camping so real-time elevation can be useful here too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from these reasons there is no one overwhelming reason (IMHO) to insist on having a barometer with a GPS computer, but that said it can be nice to have if it is there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T21:29:51.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25349" CreationDate="2014-10-28T21:49:54.960" Score="17" ViewCount="2781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute to work a few miles on my bike in the city.  Today someone walked out in front of me and I squeezed the brakes too hard and went over the handlebars.  I suffered a mild elbow fracture because I put my arms out in front of me and the palms of my hands are destroyed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started thinking, I have had several incidents while commuting (mostly in snow or on leaves) and I almost always get hand injuries as a result.  I'd like to get gloves that protect my hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't want the gloves to make injury to elbows, arms, head, scaphoid, or anything else greater.  That is, they shouldn't stick to the asphalt too hard nor slide too much (I think...I'm open to suggestion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They should be comfy to ride.  I can have a separate pair for winter and summer riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd prefer if they were tough enough to withstand a few falls without taking too much damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm always on roads and bike paths, so asphalt is the only landing consideration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what kind of stuff to get.  Cycling gloves seem like they are mostly leather and it seems like they would be damaged from a fall like I just had.  Motorcycle gloves seem heavier duty and have more protection, but I don't know how they would have affected this situation.  That is, I'm very glad my hands are hurt and face/head/shoulders are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is damage to wrists or scaphoid bone a serious concern?  If so, are there good gloves for that?  I'd love some suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: BTW My commute is only like 20 minutes each way per day.  Long distance issues are not of concern for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14217" LastActivityDate="2020-10-13T10:03:52.837" Title="Gear to protect against hand injury in a crash" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;injury&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;&lt;gloves&gt;&lt;protection&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25338" CreationDate="2014-10-28T21:51:27.250" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many first time cross racers use a mountain bike. It makes perfect sense, don't go out and spend $1500+ before you even know whether cyclocross is your cup of tea. Most all races allow mountain bikes, the only type of equipment that's usually forbidden is a fixed gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A full suspension mountain bike will do just fine as an introductory race vehicle. Your primary setback is that it's heavier than a cross bike, so it will slow you down when carrying it up a steep incline, or carrying it over the barriers, etc. But, those beefy ( and heavy ) tires might carry you through the mud quite nicely, maybe even putting you at somewhat of an advantage in a muddy beginners race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be friendly and courteous out on the course, cyclocross is about having fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T21:51:27.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25342" CreationDate="2014-10-28T21:57:45.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe try Downhill Mountain Biking gloves. Downhill doesn't suffer the same weight considerations as road cycling, so the gear is generally much tougher and designed to offer protection in some pretty terrifying crashes. The best pair I had were designed with gel-pads at the heel of the hand, which cushioned any impacts...of which I had a few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snowboarding wrist guards are an option also, they contain a hard plastic strip running up the bottom of the forearm, however I've never tried cycling in a pair so I'm not sure how comfortable they would be. They'd possibly prevent wrist injury from hitting the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider tyre choice when it's snowy or during periods of leaf-fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10500" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T21:57:45.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25347" CreationDate="2014-10-28T22:46:41.487" Score="3" ViewCount="2649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never raced before but there is a cycloycross race a mile from my house this weekend.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Course has a fast bumpy downhill.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my mountain bike with fixed carbon fork and tubeless at 40 PSI the downhill is easy but I timed myself and I am slower by a good margin.  6:10 versus 6:30 on a three lap test course.  Even riding the CX second when I was more tired.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A buddy of mine raced me and we switched bikes and we both agreed the CX was faster but just getting banged around too much.  At the bottom of the downhill on the CX can hardly see.  In a heat of 75 riders on a small course I want to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On related question someone posted a link to last year's race.  The hill I was afraid of is on the course but the decent is three long switch backs.  And even then it is late in the course so the field will be spread out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CX is clincher and not tubeless - that is not going to change. &#xA;I cannot put my mtn wheels on my CX as the mtn is disc and the CX is not. &#xA;I put the biggest tire I could on the CX (38 mm) and the lowest posted pressure for the tire of 55 PSI. &#xA;Tire still feels hard. &#xA;Tire does not even come close to bottoming out. &#xA;At 45 PSI the tire starts to soften up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So finally a direct question.  Is it safe/sane to run a 38 mm at 45 psi when the posted range is 55-90?  I weigh 165.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T19:18:01.833" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T19:18:01.833" Title="Cyclocross Tire Pressure" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25345" CreationDate="2014-10-28T23:55:44.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's perfectly safe and sane to run 45 psi, that 55 psi minimum probably has to factor in the safety and likelihood of someone weighing more than you. Really you just run the risk of a sharp edge giving you a pinch flat, and it depends completely on the course, some courses might have more rocks and pavement than others. Personally I weigh more than you and I've run 45 psi on thinner tires for certain races. It all depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even borrow a set of wheels and tires, and keep them in the pit in the event you do get a flat, that's pretty common practice for a cross race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T05:09:04.583" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T05:09:04.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25345" CreationDate="2014-10-28T23:59:47.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can reduce the pressure and it will remain safe (cyclocross isn't a high speed high turning force type of racing). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your biggest issue will be pinch flats and rim protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weather and ground conditions should drive your pressure choice as well. The muddier the track the more traction you'll need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look at 30-35 psi to start and try the track on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T23:59:47.593" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25342" CreationDate="2014-10-29T00:57:03.730" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thankfully I never ride without gloves. The light weight gloves with padded leather in the  palms is all you need - they are cheap, comfortable and effective - what more could you ask for. I had a crash after my bike was tampered with and the front wheel fell off. I am a programmer, and although I emptied the company first aid kit of dressings, and could not walk properly or bend my elbow for days, I could still type. Had I not been wearing gloves, I would have been off work for weeks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I see it, if you damage the leather enough to make the gloves unserviceable, and walk away - keep walking - straight to you lottery shop. Leather is tough and slide - in my case the gloves, which took the full impact of my fall, had no visible damage - unlike my shoulder, elbow and hip.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wearing big heavy gloves might protect you hands, but downhill riders and motorcyclists that wear these also wear full face helmets and body armour - unless you do the same you will come off and although your hands will be fine, the rest of you won't be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any bone damage is a problem - if you don't want it, don't fall off. You can learn to fall to minimize injury - downhiller riders are the masters of this, question is - can you be bothered as the only real way to learn is to do it.... You could wear body armour but its no guarantee.....  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &#xA;Since writing this many years ago, I have taken up Martial Arts with my children (I am over 50). The techniques taught have helped enormously in a couple Mountain biking falls I have had, including one where I went 'over the bars'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2019-07-02T23:06:01.193" LastActivityDate="2019-07-02T23:06:01.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25342" CreationDate="2014-10-29T01:00:17.797" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is plenty of advice about gloves under the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/gloves&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gloves&lt;/strong&gt; tag&lt;/a&gt;. See especially the question  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1732/whats-the-purpose-of-cycling-gloves&quot;&gt;&quot;What's the purpose of cycling gloves?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and one of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/1733/8273&quot;&gt;answers&lt;/a&gt;. From which you see that I recommend ordinary cycling gloves. Your purpose is their purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I suggest that while you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be wearing gloves, you also should pay attention to how you ride, and where you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bike, as you have discovered, you are vulnerable. Ride according to the conditions. Commuting is actually quite dangerous, because we tend to ride in a wider range of conditions: wet, windy, icy, leafy, greasy, heavy traffic, poor visibility, pedestrians, skateboarders, rollerbladers, other cyclists. Every one of those should cause us to change our riding to match, usually by slowing down, sitting up, and looking for options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a cyclist, I always think I have to take 100% total responsibility for my safety - because it's me who'll get hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time you have (or had) an incident (don't call them accidents), think through what &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; could have done to avoid it. Autumn leaves &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; fall in Autumn. Pedestrians &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; walk out when you can't see them (because they can't see you). Cars &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; change lanes without indicating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like I must ride like a little old lady, but the opposite is the case. However, in the last 30 years I've had only 3 crashes. In retrospect, I realized that &lt;em&gt;each&lt;/em&gt; one could have been avoided by paying more attention to the conditions and situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also rethink those incidents where you didn't crash. Yesterday, I took a downhill negative camber corner faster that I ever have. I suddenly found I was sliding - my front tire had developed a leak and didn't have enough grip anymore. &lt;em&gt;Fortunately&lt;/em&gt;, there was no oncoming traffic, I stayed upright, and was able to stop. But I'm thinking - what were the warning signs? I was already taking a risk - how could I have reduced it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take care out there and ride according to the conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T01:00:17.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25313" CreationDate="2014-10-29T01:38:46.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a close look at the limit screw - is the derailleur actually hitting it? If not, then it's possible that the spring which pulls it to the right is worn out. If that's the case, you might be able to replace the spring, but unless it's a really expensive derailleur, you're better off just replacing the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T01:38:46.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-29T03:09:14.770" Score="2" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; what I have on my front tire is the &quot;Dual Pivot Sidepull&quot; type brake. The right brake shoe touches the wheel without having to actually apply the brakes. The left has a small gap, and only touches the wheel when the brake is pulled as I would assume is expected behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How exactly do I loosen it? Currently, I am riding on rollers, and I have rotated &quot;up&quot; the thingie (sorry I don't know the exact term . still learning the technical details) on the very left there, which has &quot;loosened&quot; the entire mechanism and now the brake shoes (obviously) do not touch the wheel rims anymore. But I can't really take it out on the road like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which screws am I looking at loosening, or what exactly am I supposed to be doing to make sure the right brake shoe doesn't touch the wheel rim (while still being close enough to the rim that pulling on the brakes works correctly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1788" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T03:15:35.413" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T03:17:50.057" Title="dual pivot side pull brake shoe touches wheel rim. How do I fix it?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23024" CreationDate="2014-10-29T03:31:57.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weight distribution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles have 2 tires, 2 wheels, 2 hubs, how is the weight split between the front and rear on both Bikes? I am going to guess that it makes a huge difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14222" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T03:31:57.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18972" CreationDate="2014-10-29T08:33:56.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Yeti ASX dual suspense mountain bike. I fitted the Oldman mountain Sherpa rear rack and carry about 15-20 kgs on it without any problems. I use Ortleib Classic roller panniers and have never had a problem. I've completed the following tours: 600 kms Munda Biddi Mtn bike route in West Australia, Adelaide to Alice Springs 1600 kms, New Zealand South Island - 1500 kms, tour of Slovenia, Italy and Austria 1000 kms. Enjoy! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14224" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T08:33:56.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25358" CreationDate="2014-10-29T08:39:52.663" Score="4" ViewCount="10240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm setting up for the winter (yes it's only October, this is Sweden). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to set up a speedometer for my rear wheel while I use the turbo trainer, I have a Garmin Edge 510 with cadence sensor, and wonder can I set this up to feed cadence and speed (with speed taken from the rear wheel) to the Edge head unit whilst on a stationary trainer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I set the edge computer to deal with this (I assume it needs to know to take speed from the sensor and not GPS, and just trying to use it as normal failed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T03:13:37.857" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T03:13:37.857" Title="Can I use Edge 510 as an indoor trainer computer" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25352" CreationDate="2014-10-29T08:56:44.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;See at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon's page&lt;/a&gt; about centering the brakes: meaning loosening the bolt that attaches the unit to the frame and rotating the caliper until both pads are at equal distance from the rim. Then re-tighten and check once more. You should also check if the wheel is correctly centered in the frame or fork. In case of doubt always refer to your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T03:17:50.057" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T03:17:50.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25356" CreationDate="2014-10-29T09:12:24.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm basing this on my 810 but I assume they're similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can create a new profile for riding on the turbo. For each profile you can select which sensors are used. If you turn off GPS and turn on cadence and speed (and HR if you have it) you can use it indoors. You might need another sensor to pick up wheel speed if you only have a cadence sensor. A combined (speed and cadence) one is around £35 in the UK, not sure what they'd be in Sweden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have it on me at the moment. If you need more details I'll post instructions based on mine this evening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T09:12:24.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2506" CreationDate="2014-10-29T12:15:33.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a perfect job for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatbike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fatbike&lt;/a&gt;! Those bikes were made for such conditions you describe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/STYg2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have tires you can run with really low pressure (for more traction in the snow). You can have your mountainbike frame and disc brakes. In my opinion you even don't need a suspension with such a bike, the low pressure in your tires is really enough comfort and suspension.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride more rural and snowy roads it can be really fun with such a bike! And actually most of the &quot;big players&quot; in the mountainbike sector have their own model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6072" LastEditorUserId="6072" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T06:28:10.600" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T06:28:10.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20461" CreationDate="2014-10-29T13:15:35.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cool bike but that is a race bike.  Consider a bike that is designed for a load.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the seat stay on the Roubaix.  That bike is not designed to take a load behind the seat. Putting a rack on Roubaix is like putting a trailer hitch on a Ferrari - it has the horsepower but it was not designed for the load.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QFy1g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are set on a race bike for commuting then consider a front rack.  Front fork is more beefy and can be replaced.  This is carbon fork with eyelets.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qYUaO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With panniers.  I know you are looking for a faster bike but I have carried a case of wine on that bike many times and up front and it rides fine.  A benefit of up front is you don't have the weight swinging behind you when you accelerate.  Down side is with bags attached it is hard to ride no hands. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3f3fi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SpecializedBasicCyclocross&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is hard to find a bike with eyelets that is not a full touring bike.  I also have a full touring bike (Vaya) and loaded it is great but with a light load it is stiff.  But you can find some faster bikes that are designed for light racks.  This is a titanium La Cruz. &#xA;Notice there are 4 eyelets. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A5Qbg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;LaCruz&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four points of contact makes a world of difference.  Not only is the Roubaix not designed for it but even with a light load the rack will swing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T13:34:15.157" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T13:34:15.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8812" CreationDate="2014-10-29T15:28:36.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From years of experience, I have found that riding with your upper body (arms/ chest / back) flexed, you will get a significantly better upper body work out than with your upper body relaxed, where you don't get any work out. If your riding on rough terrain try to jump and wheelie your front tire over objects here and there; if your riding on the street, try to jump curbs and bunny hop on curbs here and there, just be careful with traffic...try to find a trail/ route that you can master. A quick upper body work out after your done riding helps as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14228" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T15:28:36.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25318" CreationDate="2014-10-29T16:59:29.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a novice racer, frame material doesn't matter. As for the groupset, Tiagra's fine. The differences in Shimano's groupsets is mainly weight, plus so durability. I'm speaking from experience here- I would swear that my Tiagra equipped cross bike shifts better than my Dura-Ace road bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13590" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T16:59:29.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25356" CreationDate="2014-10-29T17:15:44.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Garmin 510 unit with a GSC-10 speed/cadence sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't already have a seperate cadence sensor installed, a combined speed/cadence sensor like the GSC-10 from Garmin (or any other ANT+ sensor from other manufacturers) is the easiest. Just pair the sensor to your unit as per manual and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you should realize that using speed/distance data on the trainer only makes sense if you keep the resistance level constant (variations can occur due to changing tire pressure, weight and/or movement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14229" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T17:15:44.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25333" CreationDate="2014-10-29T17:38:39.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not call it convention but rather a reasoned design choice: most  people are right-handed and one shifts the rear gears more frequently, therefore right shifts rear. This is the same worldwide for all integrated shifters, which integrate the brake and shift mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes however are often reversed in countries, like the UK, where traffic runs on the left side of the road. This is indeed a convention and can be easily changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not possible to swap the gear shifters, using off the shelf components, without making some changes, e.g. the cable routing under the bottom bracket. Therefore, I would abandon this idea except if there is some medical reason, which makes a change necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14229" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T17:38:39.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25318" CreationDate="2014-10-29T17:59:23.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good rule of thumb is: if you spend less than $2000 get aluminium instead of carbon as you'll get more bang for your buck. A good quality aluminium frame with some nicer wheels will generally give a better/faster ride than an entry-level carbon bike (bought just for the sake of having carbon!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slight performance/comfort benefits of a more expensive carbon bike are of no concern to an entry-level racer. The most gains for you will simply come from more regular and longer rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14229" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T17:59:23.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25328" CreationDate="2014-10-29T19:07:08.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your GPS bike computer doesn't include a map[1] and you're navigating from a topo map, having the elevation can be very useful for making route decisions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the bad old days before ubiquitous GPS, by far the most useful navigation tool in the mountains for me was a barometric elevation watch. That and a topo map was my go to tool 90% of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you're not in the mountains, it's not much help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]- Or even if it does, most bike computer GPS displays don't have enough detail for when the going gets tricky in the mountains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T19:07:08.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-29T21:17:56.963" Score="4" ViewCount="3403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have these chain tensioners:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/orwy4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I install them correctly on my single speed bike? Do they go on the inside or outside of the frame? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dropouts look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fVOP0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies if the answer is really obvious. Appreciate the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8590" LastEditorUserId="8590" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T21:23:43.963" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T23:37:04.203" Title="How do I fit this pair of chain tensioners on my single speed bike?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;&lt;tension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25368" CreationDate="2014-10-29T21:31:45.043" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;They look like you want those &quot;in&quot; the horizontal dropout. The bracket should cover the frame and as you tighten the bolt it will pull the axle further away from the cranks, tightening the chain along with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WVQwu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful to not over tighten as you want a little 'slack' in the chain. Also, it is very easy to tighten one side more than the other resulting in your wheel not rolling straight (just slightly off center is what I see most often).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T23:37:04.203" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T23:37:04.203" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T02:20:58.553" Score="2" ViewCount="2077" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recycled my dad's road bike (about 20 years left in storage) so I bought a complete set of new wheels. &quot;Good&quot; hubs and rims, not quality brand though but I've been told they're good and that's what almost everyone in this country uses. Now the thing is that the first time I inflated the front wheel after a 1km ride it exploded due to over-inflation. After that I was so careful not to over-inflate that I under-inflated the rear one and got pinch flats. While trying to figure out what pressure I should use I came to realize that the tires are 28&quot; x 1&quot; 1/8 (700x28) and the inner tube is 700 x 18-23 which to me seems quite a lot. I should note that I weight about 85kg (something like 180 pounds I guess) and as I've been reading for that weight/tube size I should be putting about 116 psi and the tire is rated at 85 psi max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't care much about pressure since I do not intend to compete, just commuting and eventual light-training in the city. To sum up: am I getting flats because of smaller sized tubes? Should I get bigger ones (or smaller tires)?&#xA;Any help is highly regarded!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14232" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T02:48:56.907" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T11:40:55.947" Title="How much can a 700x23 inner tube stretch?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T02:29:50.800" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replace a computer with a new one (triple wireless) cadence, HR and speed but am in two minds as to if I should get a comp with ANT+. They seem more expensive and for what I will use it for, I don't need the connection to an app/computer. &#xA;Comments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14233" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T09:31:43.973" Title="Is anyone really convinced of ANT + technology/benefits?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-10-30T15:37:29.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25371" CreationDate="2014-10-30T09:31:43.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely go for ANT+. If a sensor packs up, it's much easier to replace it if it uses ANT+ rather than a proprietary protocol. If you want to upgrade anytime soon (to get GPS etc) you only have to replace the head unit. If decide you want to track your rides on Strava/ridewithGPS etc you can connect to many new phones (mainly Samsung and Sony). Well worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get something like the Cateye Stealth 50 for not much more than any other wireless computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T09:31:43.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25370" CreationDate="2014-10-30T11:40:55.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes the tube size should match the tire size.   But a smaller tube will stretch.   Too big a tube may fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Max means max.  If the the tire says 85 psi max then that is the max. &#xA;If you weigh 180 then run the tire at or near the maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not put 116 PSI in that tire.  Even if you have the wrong size tube pressure is still based on tire (not tube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T11:40:55.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25376" CreationDate="2014-10-30T12:19:26.513" Score="1" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see this a lot in videos from road bike races. A lot of rider team cars mixed with the road bikes doing the actual race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the matter with that? What do they do? Also, don't the riders inhale all the fumes from the exhausts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T13:40:29.980" Title="cars and scooters in a road bike race" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25375" CreationDate="2014-10-30T13:29:26.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Motorcycles are mostly used for media (video and photos) and sometimes for support (they can have a limited number of wheels; I'm not certain if they are &quot;neutral&quot; or team specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motorcycles will be mixed in with the cyclists; the drivers are &lt;em&gt;highly&lt;/em&gt; skilled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cars are for race support; there are team specific cars with spare parts and replacement bikes in case of breakage, and have team coaches and also used to transfer food and water bottles to the cyclists.&#xA;I think there are neutral cars with spare wheels (maybe dependent on the particular races)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also neutral cars with doctors and race officials and VIP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the cars stay behind the cyclists; if there is a breakaway a car will (as safely as possible) stay with the breakaway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the fumes; at the speed they are going, it is not an issue; and since there are only a few motorcycles mixed in the cyclists, I don't think it is an issue in itself; and the majority of the cars are behind the cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13517" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T13:29:26.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25375" CreationDate="2014-10-30T13:40:29.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The convoy of team cars driving behind the riders are there to provide support to the cyclist, like food, clothing or mechanical assistance. The sequence of the cars is determined by the ranking of the riders, e.g. the general classification in a stage race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During a race riders will drop to the back of the bunch (peloton) usually to collect new bottles from their team car. In such a case their car will drive to the front of the convoy. If they have a mechanical defect, they stop at the right side of the road and a mechanic in the team car replaces the wheel/bike. During this time other cars in the convoy will pass the stationary rider. Once he is on the road again he has to catch up with the peloton, often exploiting the draft of the vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fumes of the vehicles are not really a problem at the speed the cyclists are travelling: the cars are well tuned and not using much fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14229" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T13:40:29.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25381" CreationDate="2014-10-30T15:23:33.800" Score="0" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've installed new front derailleur (Shimano Tiagra) on my bike and I spent embarrassingly lots of time trying to adjust it. Yet still I think I have a problem with it. For me it seems too tense. You need to apply some strength to the shifter in order to make the derailleur switch to the larger gear. When I try to go to the lower gear it does it with a scarily loud sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that I can think of is that the spring in the derailleur is too tense. Yet I see no means to adjust the tension of the spring. Can anyone tell me what am I doing wrong here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks guys! You're the best as always!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T16:16:53.637" Title="Front Derailleur Tuning Question" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25380" CreationDate="2014-10-30T15:52:50.913" Score="3" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 80 mm front shock (fork) and the back shock says it's 3 inches. What size jumps can I do without ruining the bike or shocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14077" LastEditorUserId="14123" LastEditDate="2014-10-31T09:05:57.027" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T09:05:57.027" Title="How big can I drop safely on a mountain bike" Tags="&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25379" CreationDate="2014-10-30T16:07:32.027" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on technique, rather than equipment; Trials riders regularly drop several feet on rigid bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should use your legs to absorb the shock of landing to reduce the work done by the suspension, just as you would when jumping down from a height without a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T16:07:32.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25378" CreationDate="2014-10-30T16:16:53.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spring tension of front derailleurs is not normally configurable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addressing your difficulty shifting up, have you checked whether the &lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt;igh limit screw is preventing the mech from moving all the way, forcing you to stretch the cable until the shifter reaches the ratchet point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shifter is normally able to freely pull cable slightly beyond the ratchet point to allow you to ensure a successful shift, releasing the tension until the ratchet point so that the cage does not foul the chain running on the selected chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T16:16:53.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T17:39:36.713" Score="3" ViewCount="852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this bicycle a while back and have been planning on either fixing it up (if it's worth it) or selling it. All I have, really, is the frame. I haven't been able to find out exactly what it is and can't seem to find any markings on the frame. All I can tell is that it is a women's bike from the frame design. I'm not a big bike guy, so I don't know if it's even very old, although I would think it is due to the headlight. I would appreciate any help!&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ppIbA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Full Bike/Frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0TBF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VpQaK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front/Headlight&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14239" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T22:44:46.193" Title="Does anyone know what kind of bike this is?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25387" CreationDate="2014-10-30T19:38:08.593" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some trails I ride on regularly and I've seen many people go each way. A few times the single track gets very narrow and I was wondering what should I do when I see a biker coming towards me? There is also an about 50 foot cliff on one side and a fence on the other so I wouldn't have anywhere to go. Should I turn around and go back to a section that was wider and let them pass? Otherwise the trail is too narrow and won't allow two bikers side by side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I live in Orange County California&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14077" LastEditorUserId="14077" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T19:57:09.587" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T23:18:16.710" Title="what should I do when single track gets narrow" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23690" CreationDate="2014-10-30T20:29:43.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic brakes' pistons need to be cleaned &quot;every couple of month&quot;. If not, the dirt soaks the brake fluid and contaminated the brake pads. Also, a dirty piston can get stuck and then doesn't work anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T20:29:43.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T22:15:25.357" Score="1" ViewCount="1765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I grew up on a big box store mountain bike. I want to get a road bike for my commute, but I'm curious about the limitations I'll experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the benefits of a road bike: lighter weight, less rolling resistance, aerodynamic riding position, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I want to learn about the limitations: I'm mainly concerned with the ability to hop up and down from curbs and occasionally riding through some mulch and grass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a road bike's frame less tough than that of a mountain bike? On my cheap mountain bike, I can (though I usually don't) hop over and down from curbs at full speed. Would I have to be more ginger with the road bike or would curb-hopping be recommended against altogether? Would the drop bars make it difficult to hop over curbs at all? And would a road bike's tires be unsuitable for anything off-road? Any other limitations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14240" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T15:35:21.397" Title="What are the practical limitations of a road bike compared to a mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T22:35:03.640" Score="2" ViewCount="1111" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the local cycling club some people are keen on racing but are no higher than cat 3 in the events that they can enter and the power that they produce. The general consensus is that motor pacing could be the 'secret sauce' that improves everyone's level of performance before next years race season. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other are sceptical and make the point that its only for people with high enough power outputs that can only be consistently matched by a motorcycle. I agree with this point but cant help but wonder if there is something I am missing, does pedalling at this speed and cadence prepare your legs faster or could the same effects (for cat 4-3 power riders) be achieved by fast group rides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T02:04:45.153" Title="Is there any use to motor pacing for people in the cat 4 to cat 2 range actually useful?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25383" CreationDate="2014-10-30T23:18:16.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presuming you cannot see the other rider before entering the narrow section (if you can, wait for them to pass through), going back is not my first choice - as others have commented, if there's enough room to turn a bike around, there's enough room to get past - even if it means both dismounting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given most riders are human and can communicate even if they speak a different language, some form of dialogue should quickly come to a solution that meets the needs of the specific situation and individuals involved. Its also rare for very narrow sections to last for more than a few yards - perhaps &quot;backing up&quot; to a passing place would be quicker and easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is not enough room for the bikes to to be passed around, and its too far to back up.... you could offer to swap bikes and meet up next week, same place, same time...... Especially if his bike is nicer than yours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T23:18:16.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T23:26:14.800" Score="3" ViewCount="650" Body="&lt;p&gt;One year ago I moved to Boston and my father-in-law gave me his old Specialized mountain bike. He is a road bike guy so this bike was left aside for the longest time. It was in a decent shape. The only money I spent on it was for some lights, one tire and two tubes. I commuted to work (3 miles total) every single day: with sun, rain or snow. But (unfortunately) I didn't take care of it at all. And now the bike is in a really bad shape. Chains, front/rear derailleurs and cassette are all SUPER rusty. And both breaks are also gone. For my birthday I bought a new bike (Specialized Sirrus Comp) but I don't want to ride it in the snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I decided to restore the old one. The idea was to slowly restore this bike with decent parts, ride it during the winter and take care of it, and after that, I'd have a spare bike that my wife could use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step: brakes. They were REALLY bad, so I bought new v-brakes from Amazon (Shimano Acera Mountain Bicycle V-Brake / $23) and I tried to install them. It didn't go well because I also need new cables. Because of that, I got really frustrated and I completely disassembled the bike and there's no turning back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my question: should I do that or not? This is the list of parts I will probably have to buy in order to put the bike back in the streets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set - $14&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano Stainless Steel Shift Cable - $9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano Tourney 6/7-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - $13&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano FD-TX50 Tourney Front Derailleur - $11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano Tourney Shift Lever SL-RS45 - $16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New chain - $10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something?? I should probably buy new wheels but I can certainly wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the total cost would be: $96. The (ideal) final result would be an old but decent Specialized frame (it's the only part that's not rusted) with brand new entry-level Shimano parts. This sounds better than a department store bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it stupid to do that considering I have no idea how to put everything back together (Youtube will help me)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14241" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T09:12:29.443" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T09:12:29.443" Title="Should I restore my old mt-bike for winter commuting (and for wife to ride with me) or throw it away?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25388" CreationDate="2014-10-31T00:22:11.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two questions here - restore an old bike and what bike for your wife. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets deal with the easy one - an old Specialised will be a better bike than a department store one. If you need much more gear to be replaced, consider looking for a donor.  Add another $100 to you list for things that might need doing - like new cluster and chain rings, brake pads etc. Strip and repack wheel bearings and headset and you are probably good to go. From the sound of it though, a second hand bike might be a better option, as the deterioration that requires those parts replaced almost certainly means other parts are on their last legs. Cannot tell for sure without seeing it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next one - What bike should your wife ride - that depends on your relationship. &#xA;I see this all the time- Fit, active strong guy out on the trials riding a multi-thousand dollar ultra efficient lightweight bike miles ahead of his partner who clearly does not live breath and dream cycling like he does and is nowhere near as fit. She is struggling on an old beater her partner would not be seen dead riding, miles behind, exhausted and close to tears.......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like your wife, and/or want to be sent our riding on your own with her blessing, give her the beater. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like your wife, and/or would like her to like you, enjoy riding and spend quality cycling time with you, give her the nicest bike and ride the beater. If she gets to like riding, you can buy her a nice bike that fits her properly. Play you cards right, you can buy her a better bike than yours, and when you go out solo - ride that...... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Presumption I have made is that the bikes fit both riders.  My wife and me fit the same frame size. I have two seat posts and seats for &quot;her&quot; bike - one set up for for her, one for me.....)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T00:22:11.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25385" CreationDate="2014-10-31T00:54:16.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I don't ride a MTB my answer is just about road bike capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do on your road bike comes down to two main things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the size of it's tires&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;your skills&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These factors do interact: with greater skills you can do more on any given equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires come in a range of sizes (as I'm sure you are aware). For the kind of riding you propose I recommend at least 25mm. The idea is that tires soak up the impacts. If you find that you are bending your rims, the first thing to try regarding equipment is bigger tires, then tougher rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's your skills that are the key. It's not the size of the kerb or jump, it's how soft you land. While I would not recommend going up onto kirbs faster than a brisk walking pace (just manual the front up and the rear will follow), jumping down from kirbs at speeds of 30kph is fine. Just steer straight and try to land softly (that means weight on bars and pedals only). Landing both wheels together is better for the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do jumps over obstacles or potholes. &lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; This &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/23955/8273&quot;&gt;previous answer&lt;/a&gt; describes how to do jumps on a road bike. Some other answers to that question are also relevant to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned mulch and grass. 25mm tires will be fine for that. Before mountain bikes were invented we used road bikes for that all the time. Such tires will also handle sand and gravel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also wondered about drop bars. Never found them to be an issue. But make sure you keep plugs in the bar ends for safety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last comment: I would recommend a steel frame for this heavier riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T00:22:20.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25385" CreationDate="2014-10-31T02:20:37.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road bike will bang / jump - what ever you want to call it&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhabgvIIXik&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MartynRoadBikes2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Frames and wheels are just as strong&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGIAuV8Qbek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Road Bike Party 2 - The Making Of Martyn Ashton's Colnago C59 Disc&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On tires you lose the flotation and traction of a bigger tire. &#xA;And a smaller tires is more susceptible to pinch flats. &#xA;You have to be careful with a 25mm tire but as you can see in the video they push it pretty hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for commute I would recommend a cyclocross and and put touring tires on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T15:35:21.397" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T15:35:21.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25388" CreationDate="2014-10-31T02:48:12.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep the bike and fix it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation I would consider a single speed conversion. The beauty of a single speed is that maintenance is lower, no need to worry about shifters, deraileurs, etc. Just find a gear that works for you and the area you ride, and all you need to do is give the chain the occasional lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an old 26 inch MTB that I converted to a single speed, pretty much the same needs as yours. Where I live we don't get snow, but instead torrential rain. My reasons for going single speed were mostly around expense. I couldn't afford a new bike, and wanted to keep the spend to a minimum. I knew I would be riding in the rain, where I would end up having splashed up road grit and grime cause damage to my drivetrain. I also wanted ease of maintenance. After the initial build and setup, I don't need to worry about gear cables stretching and dodgy shifting. I just need to lube the chain every now and then, and I know I have a good reliable bike to commute on in any weather condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @batman says you need to consider things like whether or not you have a freehub or freewheel and the impact that may have on chain line, and the type of conversion kit. You also need to look at your dropouts and work out whether or not you need a chain tensioner, or go fancier and get an eccentric bottom bracket (they are costly). But I would still suggest it is worth considering a single speed for commuting in bad weather conditions. In 18 months of commuting I haven't had to spend any money on the bike other than using some of my lube that I already had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="2583" LastEditDate="2014-11-01T19:37:45.890" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T19:37:45.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25080" CreationDate="2014-10-31T05:43:56.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a few wool blend base layer tops and bottoms and a pair of neoprene gloves, all from Costco, which keep me very comfortable down to 40 degrees. As the temperature dips lower, I am experimenting with adding layers. At 34 degrees, I wore two pairs of the base layer bottoms, one on top, plus a very thin windbreaker from REI, which worked very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute about 10 miles each way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T05:43:56.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25398" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-31T06:10:25.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A type of fork-end which allows the rear wheel to be taken off without derailing the chain first. This is found at the rear of the bike, near the centre of the rear wheel, it is the part of the frame which the wheel is supported by. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14123" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-10-31T13:03:38.247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T13:03:38.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25399" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-31T06:10:25.020" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-10-31T06:10:25.020" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T06:10:25.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25386" CreationDate="2014-10-31T15:57:32.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Motor pacing simulates the speed/character of travelling in a big peloton in a race quite well: at times pedalling hard to keep up, alternated by periods of free-wheeling while in the draft on a downhill (say). Always moving at a high speed, fast cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To achieve the same on a group ride, the riders should all be quite evenly matched, ideally with some stronger, merciless riders, which force people to hang on. Alternatively, a very big group might achieve something similar. Hwoever, riding at a high speed in a bigger group might not always be safely possible on public roads (motor pacing is probably also not the safest thing to do if the driver is not experienced in it...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe motor pacing is a &quot;secret sauce&quot; reserved for higher catergorised riders. It is just a good way to do a hard session simulating the demands of a race. Frankly, riders who do not have so many race days might even benefit from it more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14229" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T15:57:32.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-31T17:42:48.037" Score="1" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have developed foot issues because my stiff insoles don't do me much good on the bike, especially if I stand to go up hills. So I think I need to switch to clip ins with good stiff shoes (Bont looked good online). What issues will I have with my Campy cranks on the Raleigh International  and Suntour on the Specialized Hybrid ? I am hoping for one pair of shoes that I could walk around at the grocery store in and ride on both bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bike Look pedals? The Bont commuter shoes sounded like just what I wanted till I saw they were discontinued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14245" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-10-31T18:19:00.453" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T19:31:16.013" Title="Changing '75 international to clip in pedals and shoes" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25401" CreationDate="2014-10-31T18:12:52.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just pull one pedal off each bike and go to a bike shop.  Go with the right pedal as the threads are normal.  I seriously doubt either has odd threads that you cannot find clip pedals.  You would just get compatible (or same) pedals for each bike.   Pick a pair of shoes that walks OK.  A mountain shoe is going to walk better so you should get mountain pedals.  Shimano SPD and Crank Bros Egg Beater are two popular types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hard soled shoe (without clips) designed for biking with larger platform pedals is also an option.   They don't bike as well but they walk a whole lot better.  Five Ten is a brand.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T18:12:52.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25401" CreationDate="2014-10-31T18:56:49.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most pedal/crank combinations use &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/pedals.html#threading&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one size of spindle and thread&lt;/a&gt;. There are a few random oddballs, but it's not incredibly likely that you have one of those. You do have to be careful though as one of those oddballs is very close to the standard size, and you can ruin your cranks if you try to force it. As Blam suggests, your best bet is to take it to a bike shop and ask them what you have. It's not something that anyone is likely to be able to evaluate online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=clipless%20shoes%20that%20you%20can%20walk%20in&amp;amp;oq=clipless%20shoes%20that%20you%20can%20walk%20in&amp;amp;aqs=chrome..69i57.4519j0j4&amp;amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;es_sm=122&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=clipless%20shoes%20that%20you%20can%20walk%20in&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;tbm=shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a number of different shoes&lt;/a&gt; that are clip-ins and are also (supposedly) suitable for everyday wear. None of them are really as comfortable as an honest-to-god sneaker since there's a chunk of metal screwed into a plastic plate underneath the ball of your foot. But they're better than straight-up road cycling shoes or even mountain bike shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When shopping for shoes, look for something that, at the very least, has the cleat attachment recessed in the shoe. If it's marketed as something you can walk in, you're probably good. And as a general guideline, the more it looks like a regular shoe, the better it will be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When shopping for pedals, look for something with a small cleat. The smaller, the better. Bigger cleats are more likely to protrude out from the recession in the shoe's sole. If it protrudes a tiny bit, it'll click with each step on anything other than carpet. And if it's really big, it'll poke out from the sole of the shoe and it'll feel like you're stepping on a rock with each step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific product recommendations are &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/help/on-topic&quot;&gt;off topic for this site&lt;/a&gt;, so I won't go into that part of your question. Just try on as many as you can and pick the one that's the most comfortable. Be careful if you try to attach the cleats to them. The hardware can cut into the mounting plate and then you wouldn't be able to return them if you didn't like them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check out the related questions to the right. You'll probably find some useful information there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T18:56:49.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24524" CreationDate="2014-10-31T22:05:33.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2010 Trek 7.5 FX has the better frame. Components can always be replaced or upgraded. Alpha Black Aluminum is directly comparable to Alpha Gold Aluminum. The 2015 Trek 7.2 has an Alpha Silver Aluminum frame. Not to mention, you get a carbon fork from the 2010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14250" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T22:05:33.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25386" CreationDate="2014-10-31T22:32:45.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the resources (motor scooter and someone experience in how to do it) and time, motor pacing could be very good training tool for building high-end power for a variety of fitness levels. Where it excels (when done properly) is getting riders to train at their lactic threshold. Motor pacing will push you to levels that are hard to replicate outside of real race conditions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consistency of motor pacing is also great as you can fine tune the intensity. The fine tuning allows you to sit closer and longer on your threshold than might be possible with a group of riders, especially if your group of riders has limited riding experience and differing fitnesses. Motor pacing can also accommodate a variety of fitness levels, the driver simply drives at the appropriate pace to put the rider at their threshold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now will this be the &quot;secret sauce?&quot; I have some doubts for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;1) Drawbacks for inexperienced riders / clubs&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cat 3 can represent a wide array of abilities and skills depending on your region. Many newer riders do not know what it is like to ride at their true threshold.  They hold back, resist the wonderful lactic acid pain rather than embrace it.  For them, motor pacing may have fewer benefits over regular fast club rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inexperienced riders also may not have the riding skill to motor pace safely. To motor pace well you have to be able to ride with your front wheel an few inches from the tire of the lead vehicle. This can be dangerous for unexperienced riders who may suffer from lapses in concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your diver must also be experienced.  I have paced behind an inexperienced driver and it was frightening to say the least.  Their speed would surge and slow and at one point I actually hit the vehicle with my front wheel.  I didn't crash, but this could have bee some serious carnage, especially for the riders down stream of me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;2) Raw Power Rarely Wins Races&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very few riders win races by riding off the front with their superior power. If you see someone riding off the front of a pack it is because the pack has allowed it, it is not due to their 'superior' power.  Very few riders ever ride away from the group through pure strength. Ones that do are typically so naturally strong their rarely stay long in Cat 3 anyway and in few years will likely be riding pro.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not everyone has this genetic ability, and its also not the only way to win races at the local level. Strategy and race smarts can be of equally importance. I find many new racers overvalue fitness and undervalue learning how to read races and plan efforts. Too many are too twitching looking to jump on and 'go fast' too early in the race. For these riders motor pacing will not teach them how to read races.  It will not teach them how to make a plan, and commit every last ounce of energy to it's execution (i.e., execute, or fall in the ditch in exhaustion).  It will not teach them how to neutrally deconstruct a race and assess what worked and what didn't and come up with revised strategies to try the next race. It will not magically impart singular focus and the passion needed to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, motor pacing can still be a frickin' blast when done right!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2014-10-31T22:38:14.947" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T22:38:14.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24474" CreationDate="2014-10-31T22:45:06.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of options for replacing a Hollowtech II BB (whilst still retaining the Shimano cranks). The Deore bb is a cheap bb, higher Shimano levels should last better. Anecdotally I've heard premium Bb's last years while it's not unusual to use a Shimano BB a season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shimano - Shimano has a number of different levels. BB51 deore level, BB70 SLX/XT and BB93 XTR&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Other similar brands - Raceface X-type is compatible&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Premium brands - Hope, Chris King and others&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hacks - replacing and upgrading the bearings while retaining the Shimano cups.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you kill many bottom bearings it's good to understand why and address this. Water retention in the shell is a big issue if you ride in wet areas as is washing the grease out with a pressure washer. There are Bb's that have water drains built into the cups for drainage or you can drill a hole in your Bb shell if this is a real issue for you. Sealed bearings offer better water protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End of the day it's really a value choice, if you go through a lot of Bbs you should consider a premium one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-11-01T01:20:26.410" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T01:20:26.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2014-10-31T23:24:29.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a steel frame giant hybrid.  It is really smooth, hugs the road, and is very comfortable.  I have modified it with a Humpert QAS Adjustable Quill Stem 1 1/8 - Quick release angle adjustment.  This allows me to modify my handlebars either down low or almost in the upright sitting position.   Great investment if you want comfort.  I have pedal extenders and run schwalbe 700 x 35C marathon plus and have never had a flat.  I'm over 65 and my wife and I ride about 60 - 80 miles a week.  We love our hybrids and wouldn't change them for anything.   At my age a road bike would break my back.  The wider tires work great too!. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14251" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T23:24:29.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1504" CreationDate="2014-11-01T04:38:56.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer using straps, been using them for 40+ years now and love 'em. As mentioned by previous posters pulling up can have its advantages. &#xA;While setting myself up for a sprint I worked on bouncing the back wheel as I was already in motion, this has to be timed just right,the wheel would hop and you get that xtra spin like a burnout as you're just about to give it your all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once did that and my chain decided to break at the same time I was over the handlebars going for the finish, that hurt a lot skating on my chest on hot asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14253" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T04:38:56.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20295" CreationDate="2014-11-01T12:05:17.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently using a mixed set of calipers, a Super SLR BR451 front and a non-Super SLR BR600 rear. I was using an older non-Super SLR Ultegra 6600 levers and the braking was good but not outstanding. I have recently switched to Super SLR 105 5700 STI levers. The front braking is noticeable better. The rear has fine power, but the amount of force needed to actuate the brake has increased. I first suspected poor cable and housing routing, but it was not that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to get and try a rear BR650 caliper in the near future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14254" LastEditorUserId="14254" LastEditDate="2014-11-01T20:53:13.353" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T20:53:13.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25411" CreationDate="2014-11-01T12:46:09.253" Score="11" ViewCount="4012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a hobby musician and would like to transport my instruments on my bike because there are just a few parking lots and it is too far to walk.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good and safe way to carry a trombone, several stands, and sheet music on a normal bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6072" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T02:33:47.607" LastActivityDate="2019-04-28T08:49:04.567" Title="How to transport bulky things on a bike" Tags="&lt;transportation&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25410" CreationDate="2014-11-01T14:10:33.467" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is quite tricky, given a trombone is not a nicely shaped instrument. You can try some larger racks, or mount some plywood or something to a smaller rack to try to get a more stable surface to carry the trombone (or be able to build something that allowed carrying the trombone like a pannier), but I doubt it will be very good, especially with all the additional stuff you want to carry. I do know some cellists who have strapped their cello to their backs and ridden (somehow), but I don't think it was a particularly stable or safe solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real solution I think is for you to get a cargo bike. One thing you might want to try is to do an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xtracycle.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Xtracycle&lt;/a&gt; conversion - the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.xtracycle.com/freeradical&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Freeradical&lt;/a&gt; was a kit which allowed you to extend a normal bike into a cargo bike (but is currently not being sold -- you may be able to find an existing bike/kit somewhere thoguh). Unfortunately, cargo bikes like the Surly Big Dummy and what not are not exactly cheap (and are not normal bikes), but your use case is pretty much what the cargo bike was designed for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a Freeradical conversion is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXOQE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a xtracycle carrying another bicycle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K2oDA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are other styles of cargo bikes out there, like the Civia Halstead: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6avwv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to throw the trombone and what not into a small trailer, such as one of those children's trailers like this (a cheap one will be about 150 bucks): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OTrNd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or attach a regular bike trailer like the Surly Ted (about 700 bucks for this model, but there are cheaper ones):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/grpAb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-11-01T14:19:18.330" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T14:19:18.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-01T18:30:23.393" Score="2" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please help me identify this bike, I have looked in a &#xA;multitude of places and come up with nothing.&#xA;It looks to be a beach cruiser.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mbv6N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14256" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-11-01T18:41:37.797" LastActivityDate="2021-01-21T05:37:08.170" Title="what make and model is this bike please?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25410" CreationDate="2014-11-01T22:24:42.960" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a Gig Bag that you can use as a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats what they are there for, and it seems there exist some for trombone with enough extra space for stands and sheets (check before you buy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a baritone saxophone gig bag on my bike (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gardbags.com/en/woodwind/saxophone/baritone/106-wbfsk-gard-baritone-saxophone-low-a-wheelie-bag-synthetic-with-leather-trim.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an older version of this one&lt;/a&gt;). While it may look a bit oddly proportioned on me (115cm in height; the bag, not me), it works perfectly fine for relatively short distances (5km are fine). As trombones weight significantly less than a baritone saxophone (~2kg vs 6kg, my fully loaded bag weights in at 13.5kg), I don't think it would be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do use a cargo trailer when I have to transport multiple instruments and non-folding stands. The baritone sax stays on my back though ... it's too large for my trailer :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastEditorUserId="7279" LastEditDate="2019-04-28T08:49:04.567" LastActivityDate="2019-04-28T08:49:04.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25292" CreationDate="2014-11-01T23:52:55.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I did my first race to today and here is my take on first race strategy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unless you are a solid road or mountain racer don't even think about&#xA;staying with the leaders.  The pace is fast.  It is faster than you&#xA;can ride.  It was two gears faster than I thought it would be.  For non a racer I am a good rider and in very good shape.  I got lapped 30 minutes into 45 minute race.  Even on the 4/5 30 minute race I got lapped on my second to last lap so it got turned into my last lap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring chap stick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't over eat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't drink the night before the race - it was Halloween and I went&#xA;on the Critical Mass ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring water as the event may not supply water - it was a well run event&#xA;but the park did not have water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the last 2 or 3 laps they will tell you how many are left.  If you&#xA;get passed by the leader then that is a lap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask questions.  Riders are are very helpful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are over 40 and not experience then you don't really have a&#xA;good option.  You may have a 1/2 the field Cat 3 or above in&#xA;masters.  And in 4/5 you are going against 20 year old legs and lungs.&#xA;Just have fun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are in the last race and they serve beer then stash a cup&#xA;before the race as once the Cat 1-3 hit the keg they drain it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they cheer for you to ride the sand pit or other hard obstacles and&#xA;they are not a racer it is because they want to see you crash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heckling is a big part of the sport.  Don't wear a yellow jersey -&#xA;especially your first race.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are coming into a section that you are going to need to hit&#xA;the brakes then coast a little longer and use less brakes.  There are&#xA;going to be sections of course where you don't brake and go&#xA;all out.  Use the downhills to recover.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you get passed they will tell you what side they want.  And you&#xA;will hear them.  On a corner just go wide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you get passed is when you can learn.  Watch their lines. &#xA;Watching from the sidelines is not the same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-02T02:07:00.063" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T02:07:00.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25291" CreationDate="2014-11-02T00:13:10.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rode my first race today and with the experience of the race will answer my question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The route was not as technical as I thought it was going to be.  I wish I had gone with a faster set up.  35 mm would have been fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go with the lowest tire pressure you think you can get away with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I wish I had gone with the Bianchi.  It feels a little longer on me and the hard parts of the course were some downhill switchbacks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I finished both races 40 yards behind the rider in front of me so a different set up would not have made a difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were a lot of very nice bikes.  Tubular tires are common.   But I am not going to spend money on wheels.  Once I can finish in the top 1/3 is when I will spend money to go faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T00:13:10.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25419" CreationDate="2014-11-02T02:31:22.073" Score="1" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the pictures&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xTpRz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brake pic 2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4TVAD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pic 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a lot of searching on the youtube about the fix but couldn't find as i don't know what that part of the bike is called.Its seems to me as if i need to buy new ones moreover since that is twisted and i tried to straighten it but didn't work.&#xA;if this needs to be bought what suold i searh for to buy online and what specifiactions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="2043" LastEditDate="2014-11-02T04:06:14.987" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T10:57:05.060" Title="How do i fix my v-brake with some part twisted?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-02T10:14:21.787" Score="10" ViewCount="22111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a fixed gear bike and I rode it about 5 times. I live in an urban part of the city. I've never rode a fixie before or know much about bikes in general and I knew it would be difficult to ride a fixie since it's only one single gear and you can't stop pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did notice how hard it was to pedal at first but after a few blocks I would get so tired I'd have to get off the bike to rest, especially against the wind sometimes. Now when I ride it takes a lot of leg power to go but then I become so tired after riding for a little bit. Is this normal? Does it take getting used to riding a fixed gear? Or is there something wrong with my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just think it's not right that a bike that a lot of people claim to say that it's the best easy to ride bike can make me unbearably tired after riding it for a few blocks. I just want to know why this is happening and if it's normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14259" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-11-02T11:27:35.870" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T23:45:15.830" Title="Why is my fixie so very hard to pedal?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25417" CreationDate="2014-11-02T10:57:05.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest solution would probably be to just buy new brakes. You can get them starting at about 10€/15$ which makes any attempt to repair them more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether these tension pins can be replaced. For me, brakes are too important to try to save a few bucks on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the new ones are inserted completely, the pin should ideally not be visible when installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T10:57:05.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-02T12:01:09.437" Score="1" ViewCount="2053" Body="&lt;p&gt;My key has snapped off in my bike lock and I'm wondering if bolt cutters are going to do the job and if not what else will?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its this lock that I have:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ue2Q6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lock&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14260" LastEditorUserId="7525" LastEditDate="2014-11-02T17:56:43.693" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T20:22:27.017" Title="Key Stuck in bike lock!" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25418" CreationDate="2014-11-02T12:16:48.040" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have brakes, make sure they're not dragging on the wheels. Also, make sure (if you have quick release) that you haven't tightened the wheels in too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fixed gear bikes are not easy -- they're primarily fashion statements at this point, and fashion statements often are not comfortable. You're stuck with one gear combination, and you can't freewheel (i.e. coast) when you want to. Also, for many people, resisting the turning of the wheels (rather than applying something like a v-brake) is the primary method of braking, which does take energy. A lot of fixed gear bikes ship with too high gear combination for many riders, so you may want to try getting a lower gear combination by replacing the rear fixed cog, or if you have a flip-flop hub, use the other side (and take advantage of freewheeling). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is something you have to get used to,  but its impossible to say over SE if it is normal or not [for example, if you're &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; not fit, you may have trouble on any bike]. It is also harder in an urban area since you have to start and stop a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T12:16:48.040" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25420" CreationDate="2014-11-02T12:22:25.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best option would be to ask the police or something to cut the lock for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bolt cutters or even possibly some wire snips after cutting away some of the plastic around the cable should easily cut that cable as it looks quite cheap. Before trying this though, you may want to see if you can use some needlenose pliers or something to remove the key and use the other key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Invest in a better lock next time, as well. See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/884/my-key-jammed-in-my-u-lock-how-can-i-unlock-break-it?rq=1&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; as well (along with some of the other questions in the side bar like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13376/my-bike-key-is-broken-off-inside-the-lock?rq=1&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T12:22:25.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25418" CreationDate="2014-11-02T13:31:30.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely explanation is too high of a gear ratio. Your local bike shop can swap out your rear cog for a larger /easier one. They can also check to make sure everything is running smoothly ( bottom bracket, hubs, brakes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8278" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T13:31:30.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25420" CreationDate="2014-11-02T13:35:10.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Angle grinder is the preferred tool of bike thieves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8278" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T13:35:10.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25167" CreationDate="2014-11-02T13:50:22.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are having pain and riding a lot of volume, it makes sense to get a fitting. Your other options are to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;continue to experience the pain, possibly doing long term damage to your health. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduce your volume of riding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get a different style bicycle with a more relaxed and upright geometry. Your fitter may recommend this anyways. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8278" LastEditorUserId="7525" LastEditDate="2014-11-02T19:27:40.253" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T19:27:40.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25418" CreationDate="2014-11-02T15:15:19.510" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not really enough information in your question to tell for sure what the problem is, so let me just list a few possible explanations that come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As others have noted, &lt;strong&gt;your gear ratio might just be too high&lt;/strong&gt; for you (since you say it takes a lot of effort to get going).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take your fixie to a bike shop and have them swap the rear cog for a bigger one and see if that helps.  While at it, you can also have them check for other problems, too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something (like, say, the brakes, if your fixie has them) &lt;strong&gt;might be dragging against the wheel(s)&lt;/strong&gt;, slowing you down and making you work hard to keep going.  Or, just possibly, there might be something wrong with your wheel bearings, causing the same effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an easy way to check for this: just flip your bike upside down, give the pedals a quick spin with your hand, and see how long it takes for the rear wheel to stop spinning.  Then do the same for the front wheel, too.  (You'll have to spin the front wheel by pushing on the spokes directly.  Be careful not to let your fingers get caught between the spokes and the frame while doing so!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a well-oiled bike with decent bearings and nothing dragging against anything, the time to stop should be measured in minutes rather than in seconds, and there should be little if any noise.  (That goes especially for a fixie, where you don't even have the ratchet mechanism ticking.)  Certainly, there shouldn't be any grinding or scraping noise, and the wheel should certainly not stop in less than ten seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're used to freewheeling bikes, you might be unconsciously &lt;strong&gt;trying to slow down your pedaling&lt;/strong&gt; after you get up to speed.  On a freewheeling bike, that lets you relax and let the bike roll along &amp;mdash; on a fixie, it brakes the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no simple fix to that, other than switching back to a freewheeling bike.  If you want to keep riding a fixie, you'll just have to unlearn that habit.  Fortunately, simply with enough practice, that will probably happen naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More generally, you might just be &lt;strong&gt;unused to riding a fixie&lt;/strong&gt;.  It does require a somewhat different set of muscles and riding behaviors than a freewheeling bike, and so you might initially find yourself putting a lot of stress on muscles you're not used to using so hard.  Your description sounds a bit extreme for just plain unfamiliarity, but it certainly might contribute, perhaps together with an excessive gear ratio and/or poor riding position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is something that will only be fixed by practice.  After ruling out (or fixing, if necessary) all the other issues, just keep riding regularly and see if it starts feeling any easier.  If yes, you're making progress, and should keep practicing until you can ride your bike comfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure to &lt;strong&gt;check your riding posture&lt;/strong&gt;.  A poor posture can make riding a lot harder than it needs to be.  This is true also for freewheeling bikes, but it's particularly true for a fixie, since there you can't just stop pedaling to rest your legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, check that your saddle is not too low, as that seems to be a common error.  Ideally, when sitting on the bike with the pedal is at its lowest position (i.e. pointing at 6 o'clock), your knee should be just slightly bent.  (An angle of about 25&amp;deg; short of straight seems to be commonly recommended.)  If your seat is too low, you get less power on the downstroke, and have to expend extra energy to lift your leg on the upstroke, making your legs tire faster.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3422" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T15:15:19.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25420" CreationDate="2014-11-02T15:38:27.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cable in the picture appears to have pieces of hardened steel tube around the cable (under the plastic cover).  This is to discourage hacksaws and bolt cutters.  A bolt cutter might still work, but you're probably better off with an angle grinder and cutoff wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T15:38:27.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-02T16:54:34.700" Score="6" ViewCount="14424" Body="&lt;p&gt;When two parts are press fit together (e.g., headset cup and head tube, crank arm and bottom bracket, etc.) is it proper to grease the surfaces that will fit together, or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14178" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2018-02-21T15:12:53.660" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T15:12:53.660" Title="Should I grease press fit attachments?" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25167" CreationDate="2014-11-02T21:05:31.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not need to get a professional bike fit to fix the problem, and the problem may not be fixed by a correct bike fit. If you do not know what the fitter is doing, be prepared to spend $200 for not much improvement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comment by @Neil &quot;Research bike fit yourself and adjust your bike accordingly. It won't be as good as a pro fitting, but it's definitely better than nothing.&quot;  Has to be the best advise given to this question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you get a less than ideal bike fit doing it yourself, making even small changes can result in significant improvement. By understanding even a little of the dynamics, you should be able to get a fit that is comfortable, even if not 100% efficient - you may even get it spot on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advantage of reading up on bike fits is should you end up going to a professional fitter, he will be working with someone who at least has a basic understanding of the problems and compromises, and you will be able to ask intelligent questions and give more accurate feedback. You will be able to more accurately explain the compromises you want (e.g. Setting up for a time trial is not the same as a touring would be, road is somewhere in the middle). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this reason alone, I do not recommend going to a fitter without having a basic understanding of what he will do and a clear understanding of what is important to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T21:05:31.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25167" CreationDate="2014-11-02T21:08:30.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe a bike fit is a must. &#xA;While a bike fit may definitely help, I would experiment with the fit myself before resorting to pros. There is a great amount of things you can try yourself (e.g., move the seat, change the handlebar stem, move handlebar spacers, change the crank arms for different length, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14166" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T21:08:30.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25428" CreationDate="2014-11-02T21:14:49.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it helps any, I replaced a press-fit bottom bracket on a carbon-framed bike last year. So, such a thing definitely exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't going to lube it, but when I removed the old (factory) bb, there were traces of grease down there, so I cleaned and re-lubed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I did anything to the bike, I did look around for some guidance on what I should be doing, but found nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get to the bb I had to get through the crank, which was pressed into place - it was a bit more of a no-brainer to lube that along the way as I think the advice is a bit more consistent (although I used a different lube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T08:46:26.217" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T08:46:26.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25385" CreationDate="2014-11-02T21:50:24.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A road frame is not as strong as a MTB frame, but for regular commuting that just doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider getting a cyclocross bike. On pavement, it's almost as fast as a road bike, but it's got enough room for fenders and wider tires, which will make the ride a little more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T21:50:24.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25418" CreationDate="2014-11-02T23:37:04.337" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to check your chain tension too. This answer has a lot of information you could use: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5173/how-tight-should-a-fixies-chain-be&quot;&gt;How tight should a fixie&amp;#39;s chain be?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14264" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T23:37:04.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25420" CreationDate="2014-11-03T01:36:26.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a metal pick and pull the broken key out.  You can make a pick out of a paper clip, hair pin, or anything that has harden metal.  This way you can use the 2nd key that came with the lock and don't have to buy a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14265" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T01:36:26.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25386" CreationDate="2014-11-03T02:04:45.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main elements to motor pacing vs non-motor paced (solo) riding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Physiological differences&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Motivational/psychological differences&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Physiologically, there are the neuromuscular demands and the metabolic demands. The neuromuscular demands of motor paced riding are significantly different to solo riding but the metabolic demands, provided the effort level is similar, are pretty much the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A glance at a &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.trainingpeaks.com/blog/article/quadrant-analysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quadrant Analysis of the pedal forces and pedal speeds&lt;/a&gt; from motor pace efforts will demonstrate this quite quickly and also show the neuromuscular demands have little physiological specificity with respect to time trial and non-draft triathlon events, but rather simulate more closely the neuromuscular demands of mass start road, crit and track racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metabolically, as long as it's ridden at the desired overall intensity, or has sections with desired intensity levels, it will be no more/less beneficial than solo riding at same effort level(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However even for the TT rider or triathlete it can be a motivational tool to ensure an athlete gets hard training done. i.e. the metabolic impact is similar even if the specificity is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many sensible purposes for motor pace are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;providing (roadie) race like simulation where the neuromuscular demands are significantly different to those encountered with solo riding, even though the metabolic demand may be similar. The same simulations are attainable through hard bunch rides, and road races. Where a rider has limited access to such training opportunity or races, it makes some sense to consider motorpacing if you know what you are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;as a motivational tool and a change up to training. Many find it challenging and fun.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;as a means for a support person to bring along extra supplies of fluid, food, clothing, spares/mechanical repairs, first aid etc so long hard days can be sustained as a simulation of longer road races.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;for track sprint work - e.g. getting track sprinters up to a high pace without having used all their gas getting to a high speed in the first place, so they can practice hard accelerations from a high start speed. This enables more such work to be completed in a session.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;for track team pursuit and points race simulation when limited riders are available.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;practice for motor pace events (various track races have elements of motorpacing).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;for ensuring rider safety and discipline during track warm ups with lots of riders on the track.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One should check local laws as well, as it is illegal to motor pace on many public roads. I would never contemplate taking a group for a motor pace run. That's just looking for an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good derny driver is like gold and they are rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T02:04:45.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25436" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-11-03T04:13:05.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions using this tag should revolve around locks and locking strategies for a bicycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A U-lock is a lock which is in the shape of a U. A cable lock/chain lock is a piece of chain/cable with a locking mechanism. Cable/chain locks allow locking to irregularly shaped objects or large objects (such as trees) , while U-locks are primarily for locking against posts, bike racks or similar. Generally, U-locks are lighter for comparable security, though multiple lock varieties can help defeat thieves due to requiring different tools (angle grinders for U-locks, bolt cutters for cable/chain locks). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proper lock strategy on a standard diamond frame generally requires locking the front wheel, rear wheel and saddle. The rear wheel should be locked such that the wheel cannot be removed. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; claims that locking the rear rim is sufficient as the rear wheel cannot be pulled through the frame and thieves will not cut a rim to steal a frame. Many U-locks are sufficiently long that the rim as well as part of the frame can be captured. It is important to tightly wrap any excess cable/chain or fill up space in the U-lock to prevent tool use (such as a bottle jack). The seat can be locked to the frame with a cable, and the front wheel can be locked with a cable into a rear U-lock (or another U-lock). Generally, the smallest lock / tightest wrapped lock possible is the preferred lock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other locking tools include security skewers/bolts, such as Pitlock skewers/bolts, which require special tools to remove those bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several locking quality certifications exist: SoldSecure (UK), VdS (Germany), etc. are common ones. When buying a lock, make sure to buy from a reputable manufacturer (e.g. Kryptonite, Abus, etc.) and see the appropriate security ratings for your use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T09:41:55.433" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T09:41:55.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25437" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-11-03T04:13:05.033" Score="0" Body="Locks are used to secure bikes. Common varieties are cable/chain locks and U-locks (D-locks). " OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T13:41:20.850" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T13:41:20.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25385" CreationDate="2014-11-03T04:34:48.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly hopping curbs isn't something that I would consider as an important factor to consider in choosing a bike for commuting. Riding a road bike it's almost always faster to just stick to the road, and if you do way to exit the roadway it's rare that you will have to travel more than a few seconds before there's a driveway. Still, YMMV - I don't know your route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roadbike frames are fine, it's the wheels that will go first. Don't get silly 16 spoke wheels to commute on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of things to be aware of with a roadbike though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crossing small rises at acute angles - with skinny tyres when you roll up a small bump at an acute angle (ie. across the edge of a footpath that is raised above the surrounding grass) if you hit it at too fine an angle your wheel will skid off and straighten out whilst your momentum continues over the bump - resulting in a stack. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottom bracket/crank clearance is less than on a mtb - be careful pedalling through bumps/corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10299" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T04:34:48.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25428" CreationDate="2014-11-03T05:10:34.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine any reason not to lube a part that's going to be pressed into place. It will make the pressing easier with less damage to the materials and there's no way it will lead to the part sliding out somehow. Parts that are designed to be pressed into place need a whole lot more than lube to be pushed out of place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T05:10:34.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1504" CreationDate="2014-11-03T08:56:27.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers rightly point out that being able to pull up on peddles can help improve power output but completely overlook low speed bike control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help with balance when the bike is stationary it is very useful to be able to pull the forward pedal up just slightly and apply a tiny amount of pressure. This can allow you to stay clipped in and immediately accelerate rapidly when a traffic light turns green (because proper cyclists stop at red lights). And that applies to a fixie or a freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toe straps and cleats both allow this kind of pedal control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7294" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T08:56:27.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25382" CreationDate="2014-11-03T12:12:57.813" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &quot;J.C. Higgins Girls Flightliner&quot; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.1018kustoms.com/bicycles-for-sale.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.  Perhaps not the exact bike, but quite close.  And I think Western Auto was also fond of the &quot;tank&quot; between the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SJeCo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T12:20:56.023" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T12:20:56.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25420" CreationDate="2014-11-03T15:38:00.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be able to use the stub of the broken key to operate the lock and unlock your bike (after putting in some lube). Either way, you should either take it to a locksmith to pull out the key (and perhaps make a duplicate to replace the broken one) or just get a new bike lock with stronger keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5863" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T15:38:00.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25428" CreationDate="2014-11-03T19:59:01.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crank arm should definitely be lubed before installing into a bottom bracket. This is because of the long term rotations that are going to occur, and you want cranks to spin as freely in the BB as they can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for other things like BB into the frame and headset, the reading I have done doesn't indicate that the BB needs to be greased prior to installation like you would a threaded BB; nor do headset cups into a headset. Park Tool have a couple of good tutorials for these two items (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bb90-bb86-bb92-etc-bottom-bracket-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bb90-bb86-bb92-etc-bottom-bracket-service&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately the reason you don't need to grease/lubricate those items at installation is because they don't move within the frame. The bearings will move inside each of the items. I.e. BB bearings rotate inside the BB shell and you will install headset bearings inside the cups. So it is the rotating parts that you would grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason threaded BBs should be greased is to assist in the installation of them as the rotate into position (i.e. thread onto the frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So ultimately there is no need to, however it shouldn't cause any harm if you do grease them before installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T19:59:01.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25420" CreationDate="2014-11-03T20:22:27.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got bolt cutters, a fair size and they couldn't get through it! Seems the lock was stronger than we thought. In the end it was a good old fashioned hammer and chisel into the key chamber that did the trick, managed to shift it round into the unlock position :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14260" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T20:22:27.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25412" CreationDate="2014-11-03T20:49:23.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just had a little Google for it (town bike cruiser green) and found it it on Pinterest. The bike is a &quot;Chubby's Custom Green Stretch Cruiser&quot; price is $324.99. Website is www.chubbysbikes.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14258" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T20:49:23.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2014-11-03T21:46:49.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All things are not equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, the load on the rear tire of a road bike is about 60% and on the front it is about 40%. Nor do all riders+bikes weigh the same amount. A 250 lb ultra-Clydesdale might not even want to ride on 21mm tire, let alone ride on it and inflate it up to the sidewall maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do overinflate, you will get a rock hard ride with uneven tread wear and be more susceptible to flats. An overinflated tire will also have &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; cornering ability and greater rolling resistance (at least according to Sheldon Brown and he's smart).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on the other hand you underinflate, you will get a mushy ride, again with more rolling resistance and with snake bite flats. Cornering will also suffer. Even going straight, your bike can shimmy uncontrollably if it hits something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the pressure RIGHT is worth the effort. Fast, more control and longer life, both yours and your tires'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This chart is a good starting point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xYlglKnBE4Q/Tugo_Cuj9fI/AAAAAAAAA-s/K8XjwWnFSRs/s1600/rawChart_01.png&quot; alt=&quot;a chart&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take this and add about 10% for the rear and subtract about 10% for the front. You have less load in the front and you DON'T want a rock hard ride working up through your bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't go over the sidewall maximum. If the number you get is considerably over the sidewall maximum then take that as a hint that you need a tire which can sustain a greater load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wider tire is going to have a lower rolling resistance and will last longer. It's going to weigh a leetle more (matters for acceleration and not climbing) and it's going to have a leetle more drag (not significantly until much faster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;em&gt;stagger&lt;/em&gt; tires and ride a beefier tire on the rear for that 60% load. Its increased drag will be insignificant in the frame turbulence. It's also easier to fit that tire within the chainstays than in the fork, say 23 front, 25 rear or 25 front or 28 rear. What's important is that the PSI you calculate for front+rear is within their sidewall maximums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your floor pump is not to be trusted. Its gauge will have you progressively overinflating with time. That's another reason to go with Schrader tubes since you can use a better gauge with your car as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, before you even contemplate inflation pressure for your tires, make sure you have the &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt; tires. Just so you know, pro tour riders are riding &lt;em&gt;wider&lt;/em&gt; tires these days than they did even 10 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thin and rock hard to the sidewall maximum is NOT the right answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14279" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.693" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T01:39:27.410" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25452" CreationDate="2014-11-04T00:29:04.707" Score="52" ViewCount="9329" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, I have very few strongly negative interactions with cars (most people generally seem to respect the way I ride), but those that do stick with me for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenario is almost always the same. Rude driver approaches, does their rude thing (obscenities, &quot;get off the road,&quot; unsafe passing, etc...), then speeds off to annoy the next bicyclist (or more than likely arrives at the next red light).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is generally a short interaction, I find that I just don't have a good rest of the ride. I find myself angry at the driver, thinking about what I could have done differently, and just generally being pissed off. Clearly I realize that it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; possible I'm a jerk, but given the relative infrequency of these events I'm hoping that's not the case and I'm just riding defensively and this driver is having a bad day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to get over (or mitigate) my anger at inconsiderate drivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6160" LastEditorUserId="6160" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T06:53:49.017" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T06:53:49.017" Title="How to get over anger at inconsiderate drivers" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-04T01:20:30.473" Score="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 50+ years as a cyclist, this is my approach -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ride according to the conditions&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ride in reasonable proximity to the curb&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if safe, move over &lt;em&gt;a little&lt;/em&gt; as traffic approaches&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;know where I'm going, and do it assertively&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if somebody honks / shouts / waves, assume that they &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; be a friend, or are telling me something important, so &lt;strong&gt;smile broadly and wave enthusiastically in return&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-11-04T14:01:44.330" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T14:01:44.330" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24990" CreationDate="2014-11-04T03:36:15.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't assume anything is bent or broken until you've gone through basic adjustments. It sounds like you just need more cable tension. While off the bike, upshift (inner lever on STIs) all the way out. Test by lifting up on the cable going to the rear derailleur. If there is slack, it is too loose. Loosen the bolt holding the cable to the derailleur and pull until there is no slack and re-tighten. Adjust further via adjustment knob on the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this isn't too elementary. This is one of those things that is so basic, I've overlooked it many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers and good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14286" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T03:36:15.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-04T04:47:20.953" Score="1" ViewCount="834" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did anyone take apart the replaceable battery of the Expilion headlight?&#xA;I assume it contains a 18650 like battery, but some have a protection circuit built in and some not.&#xA;Any knowledge about the type of battery? The lamp might even fit a thicker battery with higher capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5lul.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5lul.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I mill off the bottom part of the holder, can I pull out the battery, or is it tightly molded into the plastic shell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14290" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T02:33:10.073" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T00:27:02.100" Title="Cygolite Expilion Battery Replacement" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-04T07:47:23.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First and foremost would be to not take it personally, there are a lot of drivers that just think cyclists shouldn't be using the roads at all so no amount of good cycling will help that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will help mitigate, but doesn't help you to get over the anger...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do that you either need to take a quick break to compose yourself or hope that a set of traffic lights are approaching where you can &quot;ask&quot; said driver for clarification or find a little bit of enjoyment in seeing them stuck in traffic again whilst you may continue onwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8037" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T07:47:23.167" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25469" CreationDate="2014-11-04T08:21:04.073" Score="1" ViewCount="6656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking online for a while on how to fix a bug with my Garmin Edge 510 Cadence/Speed sensor but no luck, and now I'm indoors training it's more important that it works (so I can get &quot;speed&quot; data to approximate power). It often drops out as in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/activities/129770846/analysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this ride&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/activities/128542060/analysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this ride&lt;/a&gt; for example. It seems I'm not the first to encounter this problem but I'm struggling to find a solution. &lt;strong&gt;Is there a fix?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-07-30T09:32:16.877" LastActivityDate="2017-10-14T15:51:12.893" Title="Problems with Edge 510 Cadence/Speed Sensor" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;&lt;technology&gt;&lt;sensor&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-04T08:47:16.900" Score="2" ViewCount="24670" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I started going to a community bike shop to learn how to maintain and service my own bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since I changed the old, worn-out chain to a new chain with a master link, I've been experiencing this grinding when I ride. I can feel the vibrations in my feet when I pedal and the handle bars when I have it on the stand and am examining it. The chain also jumps a lot (feels like it shifts gears without me doing anything, then stays on the same gear anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike shop thought it might be the rear gear cog being worn out, so I replaced it and it still happens. We also adjusted the derailer, but it didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike shop volunteer thought it could also be the bottom bracket of the pedals. Which, upon closer inspection, seems likely...it's just weird it only started happening after I changed the chain (which they helped me size, to make sure it was right for my bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking on here, I think I'll pop off the chain and see if the pedals still make the grinding noise. If they don't make the noise, I'll try a different chain or try flipping the chain (just in case). My next step is taking it into the actual bike shop where I bought it and having them diagnose the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have anything to add? I'm curious why all these problems only started after I changed the chain. Could it be something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: we suspected the cassette was worn and already replaced that, but the problems kept occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bh7kW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finally made it into the bike shop again. Last time I was there, we adjusted the back derailer and I guess we didn't get it quite right. I had help adjusting the derailer again and now the chain jumping and skipping is gone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the grinding noise, the volunteer I talked to suspects it's the front derailer/chain guard/cogs. Something is rubbing against the chain near the pedal. I'll be working with him next time to further diagnose the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14267" LastEditorUserId="14267" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T15:42:20.300" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T16:51:32.883" Title="Replaced chain, bike makes grinding noise?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;skipping&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25457" CreationDate="2014-11-04T09:00:53.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have a master link, removing the chain should be easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess - you threaded the chain in the wrong way through the rear derailleur. There are a couple of metal extrusions between the rollers, intended to keep the chain from jumping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the chain still attached, look at the part of the RD I have tried to mark with &quot;1&quot; and check if the chain is rubbing against anything there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFLtR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T09:00:53.673" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25457" CreationDate="2014-11-04T09:36:19.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;The chain also jumps a lot (feels like it shifts gears without me doing anything, then stays on the same gear anyway).&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this I'm going to suggest that the cassette is worn (the rear gear cogs). If the chain was very worn it will have worn the teeth of the cogs to the same fit, now with a new chain they no longer align properly. Depending on the cassette model it is fairly cheap to replace, but does need a couple of special tools - your community bike repair group should have them. See here for GCN's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05WxxDo4CvY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to replace a cassette&lt;/a&gt;. But you've already replaced that right? Make sure it's fitted correctly and is the right size - if you've switched to something with a lot of teeth on the biggest cog you may need a longer rear dérailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future check the chain stretch frequently using a chain wear tool and replace it when there is 1% or more wear, this will prolong the life of the cogs in the cassette and chainrings (front gear cogs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check the chain is threaded correctly through the drive train, check the bottom bracket by knocking the chain off and spinning the cranks, check the alignments of dérailleurs, and grease the jockey wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_chain#Width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;correct size of chain&lt;/a&gt;? And did you set the length of chain correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastEditorUserId="5434" LastEditDate="2014-11-04T09:53:40.113" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T09:53:40.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-04T14:10:50.647" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard this many times before. Is there scientific evidence for this fact? Or have any of you come across this in your lives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14295" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T13:11:53.733" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T13:11:53.733" Title="Does riding bicycles reduce sperm count?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;men-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-11-05T14:00:55.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25461" CreationDate="2014-11-04T14:30:51.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are studies that link cycling to Erectile Dysfunction. A quick Google will point you toward further reading. I'm afraid I don't know what the link is (or indeed whether there is a link) between ED and sperm count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link between cycling an ED is because of pressure exerted on parts of your body while riding. You therefore won't find it surprising to learn that people will suggest one saddle design over another, with this in mind. How much substance there is in any of this......it's all subjective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that, in general, though, the health benefits of cycling (helping to prevent e.g. heart disease) are considered to outweigh the risks. ED, for example, is in most cases temporary and reversible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T13:05:27.143" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T13:05:27.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25464" CreationDate="2014-11-04T14:32:37.770" Score="7" ViewCount="720" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute on a towpath in Hertfordshire, England and there is ample amount of wildlife about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the day it's fine, I can see ducks, squirrels and rabbits in time and slow down if I need to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However at night it seems to be a problem as I occasionally have close calls with particularly what I believe are squirrels and rabbits trying to cross the towpath as I'm approaching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe they see me rather too late sometimes and despite my front lights and intermittent signalling with the bell I've not been able to mitigate that. It goes without saying that I see them especially late. Particularly problematic are blind sports just before a turn. It doesn't help that often there are no other light sources apart from my lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone run into a similar problem and has any tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13775" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T00:55:35.063" Title="How to avoid running over animals whilst cycling on a canal at night?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;animals&gt;&lt;night-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25463" CreationDate="2014-11-04T14:45:30.680" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commute brings me through a park with a lot of rabbits (or similar animals, not a zoologist here) and it has been rather close a few times ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a head lamp when driving there at night for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It allows me to see through turns much better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The eyes of animals reflect directly back at you, which helps to see them a little earlier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that does not help when they jump out of the shrubs directly in front of you. It doesn't happen a lot, but I have seen dead rabbits on the path a few times. (No dead cyclists yet)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T14:45:30.680" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-04T15:00:30.770" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try making up a different backstory for the driver. You are already making one up, you know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;speeds off to annoy the next bicyclist &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do very well with assuming that the driver must have an unhappy marriage, or be on their way to a job they hate, or otherwise be preoccupied with their own misery, which impairs the way they drive. If they beep or say something mean or make a rude gesture, I tell myself that they are actually angry at themselves for almost hitting me or barely seeing me in time, and that leads them to angry behaviours pointed at me, even though I have done nothing wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mindset lets me feel a little smug about the poor sad idiot who is now driving away from me. It works even if I'm in a car. When I'm on a bike, I can also add to my mental list that they may be jealous that they have not been able to arrange their lives in a way that lets them commute by bike, or go for a ride in the middle of the day, or whatever it is that I'm doing while they are stuck in their car being angry. You have to pity them, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then smile and remember how much better your life is than that poor sad idiot motorist's, and carry on enjoying your ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1922" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T15:00:30.770" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25463" CreationDate="2014-11-04T15:31:34.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the heat of the summer I like to take night rides on some lite paths to get out of the sun. &#xA;For night rides I ride my mountain bike as it is slower and more agile. &#xA;And if I hit an animal (or other obstacle) I would have a better chance of staying on two wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as linc answered (+1) light it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And hit the bell or yell rider before a blind corner.  Not sure if animals will move but a cyclist knows what that means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T15:31:34.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25463" CreationDate="2014-11-04T17:16:48.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would making more noise (without being obnoxiously loud) be an answer? Constantly twiddling a bike bell would be distracting, but a few jingle bells you could hang on your bike or gear might help alert the critters that you're coming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T17:16:48.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25456" CreationDate="2014-11-04T18:22:11.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have an Edge 510 (since ~3 months) with the same sensor, but I have not experienced this. I have recently updated to the latest firmware, which often solves similar issues with power readings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you were riding at quite low temperatures, the capacity of the battery does decrease, but since the speed reading is fine I would not suspect the battery if the sensor/battery is not old (?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a line/groove on both the sensor and the magnet -- check that they still line up properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check also that the sensor is installed in the correct orientation: the battery cover faces the wheel in my case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also verify if the sensor also acts this way when used indoors at room temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14229" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T18:22:11.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-04T18:56:09.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of getting mad at them remember that the people who honk or drive too close are need more education on how to drive on a complete street. It is our job as cyclists to do our best to follow the road rules. If you are doing that you can be confident that it is not your fault if you get honked at. Rather it is their ignorance of safe driving that is the issue. To that I would pity them rather than be angry at them. You can fight this in your own way by educating people about the rights of cyclists and the proper rules of the road. For everyone that causes harm to you on the road there is always the police.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T18:56:09.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-04T21:16:57.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's really not much you can do to prevent the onset of such feelings. It is your visceral response. I also think that if you're riding hard, there may be some biochemistry involved that makes angry emotions more pronounced. Just accept a certain amount of anger. There's nothing you can do about it in the brief moments during and after the incident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smiling and waving is perhaps one way to respond. But if you're actually angry, it comes off as sarcastic and some drivers might take even more offense to that than almost anything else, escalating the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best immediate response is to just focus on the safety of yourself and others riding with you. If possible, try to remember details about the vehicle and its driver because sometimes you might get another &quot;round&quot; with this person if they didn't get their satisfaction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the initial rush you have an opportunity to cool down your emotions. I have found it helpful to realize that part of the intent of aggressive driving is to get a rise out of the victim. In a way these hostile drivers are spreading grief like a virus. There's no trick to mitigating this. You just have to deliberately put it out of your mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T21:16:57.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25482" CreationDate="2014-11-04T21:17:25.813" Score="1" ViewCount="1763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want a touring bike that is as light as a road bike - basically I want a road bike with a touring bike geometry - ie around  10 or 11Kg, excluding pannier racks, and other add-ons.  My price range for a complete bike is £500 to £1000 max - is that possible? Either as a frame which I can build up, or an off-the-shelf built bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had my current touring bike for 10 years, everything has been replaced at least 3x and  it is ideal for everything I do, but I am sure it doesn't need to be so heavy (14Kg) for what I do - long commutes / touring holidays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4109" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T09:24:28.363" LastActivityDate="2019-09-07T05:15:32.840" Title="Is there a cheap touring bike that is as light as a road bike" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25484" CreationDate="2014-11-04T22:15:21.323" Score="2" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a chain riveting tool. Here is how it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NWet.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bicycle chain tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works fine, I was able to push the rivet out of a test chain. But faced an unexpected difficulty: after I restore the rivet to it's proper position the chain link becomes very hard to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, the cause of this  is that my tool is not as precise as those, used in the factory, when manufacturing the chain. And when I restore the rivet, I shift it a little bit from it's ideal position. It creates extra friction, not allowing the plates to move freely as they should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgwBH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal? Am I doing something wrong? Maybe, there are better tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13656" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T14:44:02.783" Title="Chain link jams after reassembling the rivet" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-11-07T13:10:56.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25474" CreationDate="2014-11-04T22:32:18.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally the solution is to wiggle the link a bunch and it loosens up. After installing the rivet, try flexing the chain in the direction of the rivet back and forth. If that doesn't work, use the other setting of your chain tool in order to loosen the link up (see the chain tool manual for details). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T22:32:18.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25473" CreationDate="2014-11-04T22:41:35.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is designed to take a load it is going to be heavier than a road race bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely agree with go for steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might look for all day, randonneuring, endurance, or even cyclocross bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of money but the Salsa Colossal TI is just over 20 lbs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a titanium cyclocross as my cyclocross, commuter, and long road rides (trade out tires). &#xA;It rides a lot like my touring bike but just lighter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you first posted the question you did not have a price constraints.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You might find a new 10 - 11 kg steel bike for £1000 but probably will probably sacrifice components.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You are going to need to up the weight or budget. &#xA;The steel version of the Colossal is under 11 kg and closer to that budget. &#xA;Look for a good used bike - I got my used titanium cyclcocross in great shape for close to that price range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for racks once or twice a year is not the same as never. &#xA;If it need to take a rack you need to look for a bike that does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calling a bike something other than a touring bike is not going to make it cheaper or lighter.  I would not eliminate touring bikes from you selection.  Just go for the lightest bike that does what you want it to do in your budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that budget you are probably not going to shed 3 KG.  If your current bike is ideal for everything you do then consider keep on riding that bike until you have a bigger budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T14:00:39.780" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T14:00:39.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-04T22:45:31.127" Score="1" ViewCount="890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a fixie and fenders just don't look good on it. Rear fender is ok, but there is no way I'm installing such a monstrosity on the front wheel. Are there any alternative out there that don't make make shoes soaking wet after a few turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen interesting approach done on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://oregonmanifest.com/and-the-winner-isdenny/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Denny&lt;/a&gt; bike that won &lt;a href=&quot;http://oregonmanifest.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Bike Design Project&lt;/a&gt;. Is a brush that constantly contacts the tire a good approach?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14302" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T23:00:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T23:00:37.680" Title="Alternatives to ordinary fenders" Tags="&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-04T22:49:55.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that more often than not, when I get mad at drivers, it is very often a reflection of my own mood. If I'm in a good mood, bad driving just washes over me.  On the rare occasions I am in a bad mood for some reason, the slightest inconsideration by a driver gets me seething.&#xA;The best response to bad, inconsiderate driving is to ignore it. (But I sometimes imagine catching up to them at the next traffic lights, reaching inside their open window, plucking their car keys out the ignition and throwing them in a convenient river / gorse bush)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4109" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T22:49:55.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-04T22:50:54.147" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a fake Buddha quote on some internet sites which says, &quot;Holding onto anger is like drinking poison and expecting the other person to die.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most popular of the genuine Buddha quotes (the Dhammapada) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.accesstoinsight.org/tipitaka/kn/dhp/dhp.01.budd.html&quot;&gt;begins with&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;He abused me, he struck me, he overpowered me, he robbed me.&quot; Those who harbor such thoughts do not still their hatred.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;He abused me, he struck me, he overpowered me, he robbed me.&quot; Those who do not harbor such thoughts still their hatred.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hatred is never appeased by hatred in this world. By non-hatred alone is hatred appeased. This is a law eternal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are those who do not realize that one day we all must die. But those who do realize this settle their quarrels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anger is one of the Buddhist &quot;poisons&quot;, and is a source or cause of &quot;suffering&quot;, and a large part of the point of Buddhism is to liberate yourself from such, not be susceptible to it. The &quot;wholesome behaviours&quot; which are opposite to anger include &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advesha&quot;&gt;non-aggression or non-hatred&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mett%C4%81&quot;&gt;benevolence or kindness&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not becoming angry might take repeated practice. There are views (about the world and about self) which are or are not conducive to becoming angry. There's awareness (of your body and reactions), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be a deep and complicated subject. @andy256 answered it pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I worried about some of the other answers: e.g. &quot;thinking of the driver as an idiot&quot;, or that there's &quot;not much you can do to prevent your visceral response&quot;, might not be ideal answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine a person who never gets angry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T22:50:54.147" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25473" CreationDate="2014-11-05T00:12:05.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.devinci.com/bikes/bike_498_scategory_128&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Devinci Caribou&lt;/a&gt; and I just weighed it at 23 pounds, or 10.45kg with the rear rack, lights, and 2 bottle cages attached. I'm not sure how accurate my measurement is as I just used my bathroom scale, but I weighed it by weighing myself, and then fully lifting the bike off the floor and calculating the difference. The bike I linked to is likely a little lighter as it's a newer model with better components. They used to have 2 models with the one I own being lower spec than the one shown. Being aluminum, it's likely a little lighter than many touring bikes which are made of steel, but it still has touring geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.devinci.com/archive/2006/route/caribou.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF brochure&lt;/a&gt; from 2006 which gives a weight of 11.1 kg. I would assume it's gotten a little lighter since then, so the weight I measured seems somewhat accurate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T00:27:22.750" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T00:27:22.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25473" CreationDate="2014-11-05T01:10:23.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a trend of these bikes about 8 years ago. They weren't called touring bikes, but Century or Relaxed Geometry. This is a typical example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trek Pilot - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2006/archive/trek/pilot21/#/us/en/archive-model/details?url=us/en/bikes/2006/archive/trek/pilot21&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2006/archive/trek/pilot21/#/us/en/archive-model/details?url=us/en/bikes/2006/archive/trek/pilot21&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, they seemed to all disappear from the big manufacturers a couple years ago.&#xA;Plenty of small brands still in this market. I'd look into Salsa for examples. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've got the cash to spend, this is the bike I would recommend. Volagi Luscio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.volagi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Cyclist-Magazine-2014-Liscio-Review.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.volagi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Cyclist-Magazine-2014-Liscio-Review.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've test ridden one and they are exactly what you are looking for. I think any bike&#xA;in this niche today is likely to have disk brakes, rather than the long reach brakes&#xA;on the Pilot. So I'd start looking at various road bikes with disk brakes and see if&#xA;you can find the geometry you are looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find an old Trek Pilot or Specialized Sequoia, those would be relatively good&#xA;frames to start from. With the right components, you could easily get around 10 kgs bike&#xA;weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't want to carry 90lbs of touring gear on these bikes, but a moderate load would be just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T01:18:22.707" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T01:18:22.707" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-05T01:29:42.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might be a dissenting voice on this site, as I more often drive than ride my bike on the road, but consider that it might be &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; being inconsiderate, if you pardon the pun. May be it's you hogging a lane or dashing to the right of a driver trying to make a right turn -- one cannot tell from your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also ride a motorcycle once in a while, and the one thing we were taught most persistently in our safety course was this: &quot;Ride as if everyone else were there to kill you.&quot; I find this applicable to any type of vehicle, really. For every bicycle rider rudely cut off by a car driver, there is a car driver equally rudely cut off by an 18-wheeler driver. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that if we all on the roads were thinking a bit more about others than about ourselves they (the roads) would be safer. Come to think of it, this applies to other aspects of life as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14304" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T01:29:42.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25474" CreationDate="2014-11-05T04:16:02.410" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This often seems to happen.  Sometimes it helps to use the tool to push the rivet back out the other way a fraction of a mm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a Shimano chain, then using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/639495/shimano-9-speed-chain-pins&quot;&gt;pins with a snap-off driver&lt;/a&gt; can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T04:16:02.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18419" CreationDate="2014-11-05T04:44:48.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do this, and no, you don't need new rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue with my CX bike in that it didn't brake as weel as my MTBs, so I swapped to metallic pads.  They do work better, but IMHO, the biggest difference is whether you are using hydraulic or cable disc brakes.  Cable are simply not as good as hydraulic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T04:44:48.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-05T06:26:37.353" Score="2" ViewCount="13144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2014 Giant Trance with an Overdrive 2 tapered steerer (1-1/2 - 1-1/4). As we know, the standard tapered steerer is 1-1/2 - 1-1/8 inch. I want to replace my OEM fork (Fox 32 Float Evolution CTD 140) with a more advanced Fox or RS. Is it possible to fit the bike with a standard steerer? I know that it would mean changing all the front end of the bike (fork, headset, stem) which I am prepared to do. Is there a headset to accommodate my frame and new fork. Would a standard tapered integrated headset do? Has anyone have an OD2 Giant bike here that have done the same exercise? This bike is problematic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14237" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T00:11:05.637" Title="Giant Overdrive 2 fork replacement" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25474" CreationDate="2014-11-05T11:54:55.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read the instructions.  After you push the pin in, you place the link over the left-most set of teeth (so that the teeth are between the plates) and give the crank about 1/2 turn.  This loosens up the link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that you should be pushing the pin in the direction opposite of how you inserted it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T12:06:38.390" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T12:06:38.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24562" CreationDate="2014-11-05T12:10:16.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple of points:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firstly, yes they are compatible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes they do shift better of standard cables, this is due to cable drag. Cable drag is basically the friction between the inner and the outer. This friction causes slower and less accurate shifting. The polymer on the inner decreases the coefficient of drag between the inner and outer, this increasing shift performance. Now that seems like a lot of marketing BS, but having used both, I would now always opt for the new polymer cables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next to having to scrape the polymer off, this is easy and honestly, just clamping the cable breaks it away. Its pretty fragile stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next to your point of using WD-40 to keep things running properly, WD-40 acts as a degreaser, this actually strips the silicone grease off, and will dramatically decrease shift performance and cable life. You would be better off not trying to lubricate the cable at all rather than using WD-40. Lubricating the cable with a touch of silicone grease however is well worth it. When I clean or service bikes, I put a touch of silicone grease where the cable exits the outer at all points. This helps two fold, firstly it stops water/dirt getting into your outer, secondly it will work its way into the outer and help keep them lubricated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13890" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T12:10:16.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25463" CreationDate="2014-11-05T13:17:11.503" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy - stop treating my home as a racetrack and you won't hit anything. In 30 years of cycling the towpath I've never hit anything and I don't very often use lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14312" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T13:17:11.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3412" CreationDate="2014-11-05T15:56:22.167" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got shimano internal hub for 5 years mainly to commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no maintenance - at the beggining&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;easy changing at red light or to jump on the sidewalk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;harder to change tire when flat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one day a car bump my wheel: I add to change the whole wheel+internal hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after some time (3000km) some gears are screwed, so it &quot;jumps&quot; when I press too strongly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there's only one cogs, so it becomes old faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the lacks of derailleur force you to tune the chain tension very often&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or when you chain jump, it's harder to put it back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all these reasons, I switch back to a classic XYZ-speed bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7847" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T15:56:22.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-05T19:35:45.767" Score="3" ViewCount="1346" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title mostly says it all. Is there a reason to or a reason not to replace the back wheel or rim if I replace the front wheel to get a dynamo hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason would be aesthetics, to keep the wheels the same, but that doesn't sound like a good enough reason for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a hybrid Specialized that is maybe 3 years old, but with only 100 or so miles on it. I have been commuting to work and looking into getting dynamo powered lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14319" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T21:54:27.293" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:18:10.133" Title="Should I replace both wheels/rims if I convert the front to a dynamo hub?" Tags="&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21059" CreationDate="2014-11-05T20:16:34.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;XCM is an entry level fork - typically found of bikes at the low end of the price range. Its not hard to imagine you have out grown the fork and it is limiting your enjoyment and performance while riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to tell if a better fork is needed, (or is that wanted?) is to take a bike with a better fork for a ride. The main consideration is how much money are you prepared to spend. However, if you take a bike out with a better fork, it will almost certainly be a better bike in every other way as well - so be careful of the comparison - you could esily set yourself up to be disappointed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a measurable difference, you would need to install a fork that was of far better quality than the rest of the bike, and much of shocks improvement (hence the money) would be wasted by the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is rare that a fork upgrade (as opposed to a replacement of a faulty fork) makes sense - the manufacturers build a bike to a cost and the quaility/performance of components match. Forks are very expensive - probably more than the bike is worth. 80mm travel is not enough for serious trail riding - you might push out to 100mm without upsetting geometry too much, but that is still low by today standards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrading the whole bike is a much better idea. Put the money you get from selling the bike and the amount a fork would cost into a new (or even better - used) bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T20:16:34.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25492" CreationDate="2014-11-05T20:27:12.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear wheel is not even aware that the front has been replaced.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No reason to replace the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T00:46:39.357" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T00:46:39.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25492" CreationDate="2014-11-05T20:33:57.280" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should replace the rear wheel only if there is another well justified reason to do so, but generally both wheels are mostly independent, so you can perfectly change only the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first scenario I think of is where you are changing only the front hub (and spokes) and keeping the front rim. Why would you change the rear one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easier task is to replace the front wheel (i.e. rim+hub+spokes), sometimes they are even sold this way, so it's only matter of mounting the tire and installing the cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear wheel can be changed at this time if there are reasons on its own, for example the hub or rim are already close to the end of the useful life or are worn out completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other reasons may be: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You bought a wheelset that included both, or your current rear hub is a dynamo (and you don´t want two dynamos in one bike).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rim you are putting in front is a different width or size, or is intended for a different use (e.g. from super light rims to utility ones) and you want to match the rear for usage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:18:10.133" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:18:10.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-05T21:23:41.607" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my youth I entertained some militant bicyclist thoughts, so let me share a few stories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Notre Dame, Indiana) I was riding my bike home from the department. A car full of high-schoolers (or may be freshmen?) approached from behind. The dudes on the back seat came up with the bright idea to poke me with a baseball bat. They barely made contact, and I was mostly WTF? Thankfully it was all over in a second, and nobody got hurt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Notre Dame, Indiana) I was again riding my bike home. The laces on my right shoe got caught around the crankarm. After a few more pedal strokes they became uncomfortably tight, and I noticed that something was wrong. This was the first time it happened to me, so I didn't know what to do (the remedy is to pedal backwards - the laces will come loose again). I was gradually losing speed, and eventually fell to my right on the grass (no curbs or sidewalks). Conk. A pick-up-truck driver coming from behind saw that something unusual happened. He pulled over, and walked to me to check if I was all right. He supported the bike in the air so that I could turn the cranks and get myself loose. The friendly Hoosiers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To each bad story there is a good story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Militant I said?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Turku, Finland) I was riding my bike downtown during a rush hour on a narrow street. A car zips by me, and more or less immediately steps on the brakes wanting to turn right, but being forced to wait for pedestrians to cross the street. There was a bus on my left, and I had nowhere to go. I hit my brakes, barely got around the back of the car, and rather than taking my chances with the bus decided to lean on his roof for support. I was already pissed, so I didn't do that gently. Of course, the guy comes out of the car, fuming. But, instead of the teenager he was expecting, he faced my unhappy 6ft4in 220lb self. He thought better about picking a fight, muttered something and went back in. I wasn't exactly proud of myself. I could (should) have anticipated the development of that traffic situation much better, but I was having a bad day anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But we have the superior method of transportation, so let's take pity on the car drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Turku, Finland). A nice summer day, low 80s (very warm by local standards). I was riding my bike home from downtown after doing errands. After a visit to a cam'ra shop I noticed this guy in a red convertible in front of me in the traffic lights. When the light turned green he sped away, but at the next traffic lights we were still there together turning left to a somewhat congested street (the scene of the previous story). Two more traffic lights, and we are still together. AND I had stopped at an ATM to withdraw a bit of cash while he was stuck there. Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having seen car/bike encounters from both sides, the advice is to be chill. The enclosure of a car brings out the worst in many people sometimes. Normally they would be nice folks, but something happens there. I'm no psychologist, so I don't know what. I try to keep these stories in mind, when I meet bicycles and I'm behind the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12606" LastEditorUserId="12606" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T16:04:21.003" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T16:04:21.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25486" CreationDate="2014-11-05T23:12:23.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can just buy a standard tapered headset. Or if you can firnt it, only the upper assembly for 1 1/8&quot;. Giant uses the same diamete for their 1 1/8&quot; and 1 1/4&quot; headsets as it says here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Giant-OverDrive-2-Steerer-tube-sizing-2011.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Giant-OverDrive-2-Steerer-tube-sizing-2011.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution I can think of is to turn a spacer yourself (or have it done by someone) to work as an inner race for the bearing. It's more demanding (since you would have to turn both the spacer and a cap), but could probably work out a bit cheaper than the entire headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastEditorUserId="14321" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T17:18:20.193" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T17:18:20.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25502" CreationDate="2014-11-06T03:35:53.487" Score="1" ViewCount="1505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at purchasing a used Specialized Rockhopper with an XL frame.  Everything is exactly what I'm looking for on this bike with one exception...the tire size.  It currently has 22&quot; tires/rims and I'm curios if I can upgrade those to 26&quot; tires without having them rub against the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&#xA;msindle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14325" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T10:00:44.157" Title="Tire upgrade from 22&quot; to 26&quot;" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;26-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25499" CreationDate="2014-11-06T06:31:56.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt it has 22&quot; tires/rims - more likely the rims are 26&quot; or 29&quot; (in which case it should be listed as a Rockhopper 29) and the tires are 2.2&quot; (and the seller forgot the decimal point). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;22 inch wheels on bicycles are pretty much a botique item for BMX, and certainly wouldn't be found on an adult sized bicycle (and the kids bikes from Specialized are sold as the Hotrock in sizes 12, 16, 20, 24). For general reference, there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some juvenile bikes&lt;/a&gt; with 22&quot; tires, but the Rockhopper is not one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in general, switching the rim size is difficult with rim brakes (since the rim brakes have to line up - one special case is 27&quot; to 700c which requires a 4mm brake adjustment), but sometimes doable with disc brakes (700c -&gt; 650b is not uncommon) provided the setup clears. Its generally a ymmv/you're on your own option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T06:37:37.993" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T06:37:37.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25499" CreationDate="2014-11-06T10:00:44.157" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;MTB rims branded 26&quot; measure 559mm to the bead seat, which converts to... 22 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You already have 26&quot; wheels.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're called 26&quot; because when you put an ordinary 2&quot; wide tyre on them, the outside diameter is about 26&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T10:00:44.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25463" CreationDate="2014-11-06T11:36:15.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gotta say I agree with Chris Pink (who'd a thunk it, if it's the same Chris Pink from a certain boaty forum)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never hit an animal on the towpath. Sounds to me like you are not riding to the conditions. I know when I ride at night, where there is no lighting you need to slow down a lot, even if you have decent lights. Yelling out before going around a blind corner... Are you going slow enough to stop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for being too strapped for cash to get a decent light, that's just daft. If you ride unlit towpaths regularly then get a suitable light, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultrafire-2000LM-CREE-T6-C8-LED-18650-Bike-Bicycle-Flashlight-Torch-Holder-Clip-/291032605398?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Camping_LightsLanternsTorches&amp;amp;hash=item43c2e522d6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Super bright Cree T6 LED bike light £6.19 free P&amp;amp;P from Ebay&lt;/a&gt;, ok you still got to buy the battery &amp;amp; a suitable charger (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/18650-batteries-/10000000017916326/g.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;big_f_d_d on Ebay&lt;/a&gt; is the guy to get your batteries from aka Torchy Boy &amp;lt;--google it I cant post any more links)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14332" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T11:36:15.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25474" CreationDate="2014-11-06T14:44:02.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PwJ5A.png&quot; alt=&quot;Loosen stiff link&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like somone else has said (I can't comment yet so I have to post as a new response) a common practice to loosen stiff links is to wiggle the chain back and forth around the stiff link, as shown with the red arrows.  Also, putting some Triflow on the pin before you drive it back in will happy in the future.  Really you should be using new chain pins or powerlinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13925" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T14:44:02.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25512" CreationDate="2014-11-06T15:22:55.010" Score="1" ViewCount="1110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, three 80mm wheels are listed in Campagnolo's websites, but I can't fully see what's exactly the difference between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BORA ULTRA 80&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BULLET ULTRA 80MM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BULLET 80MM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess BULLET 80MM is a cheaper version of BULLET ULTRA 80MM (using aluminium in places or what else), but no clue between the first two.  So, while I've not made the hardest research ever, very little (or even no) info available on the comparison of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14337" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T00:58:48.737" Title="Difference between 3 campy 80mm deep section wheels" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25508" CreationDate="2014-11-06T15:25:54.753" Score="3" ViewCount="1537" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, my road bike's chain got cut, so i took it for replacement. A new chain was inserted and the shifting had a good transition. However, when i shift on the harder gears, i hear &quot;crack crack noises&quot; as if the chain is not well fit. I returned it to the repairman who still said he now fixed the problem but i still have the same issues. It seems he only tested the bike while suspended but not on actual ground. Is this because the new chain was too long ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14338" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T16:16:09.417" Title="Bike chain too long?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25507" CreationDate="2014-11-06T15:32:00.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably need a new cassette/freewheel. A new chain on a worn cassette will jump (especially on the harder gears).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The harder gears have two things going against them. &#xA;Less points of contact to share the load. &#xA;Less points of contact so they tend to be worn the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have front derailleur then using the bigger ring there will let you use bigger cogs in the rear.  If I can be in 3 or higher in the rear on the big ring up front then I use the big ring up front to keep miles off the smaller cogs in back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T16:16:09.417" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T16:16:09.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-06T15:55:57.727" Score="2" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar with Jonathan O'Keeffe's Strava Multiple Ride Mapper (tied to the Strava API) but I'm interested in mapping all activities in a certain geopgraphy, not just those I've done.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to find new trails that I haven't explored so I'm interested in seeing all activities in a region from all users.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Bonus points if it can then remove the roads/trails that I've logged activities on.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ref: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jonathanokeeffe.com/strava/map.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jonathanokeeffe.com/strava/map.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14299" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T08:11:54.030" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T08:11:54.030" Title="Is there a 3rd party tool to create a heat map of all activities in a specific area?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;maps&gt;&lt;strava&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2014-11-06T15:59:23.573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-06T16:19:46.687" Score="0" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Peugout bike that needs a 23.8 (to the best of my measuring abilities) seat post. I can't find such a seatpost in all the obvious shopping places, but I did find a 23.4mm one. I'm just wondering if I should give it a try, but since it's £20 I wanted to ask if anyone had experience with such fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10462" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T19:00:07.080" Title="Will slightly slimmer seatpost make a difference?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25510" CreationDate="2014-11-06T19:00:07.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes-m-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt;, there are 1987 Peugot Versailles with 23.8mm seatposts (and I have heard of other french bikes with 23.8 mm seatposts, so it is probable that you've measured correctly). The measurement should be done with calipers or a seat post measuring tool, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution I've heard of is buying a 24 mm seatpost and sanding it down until you shave off 0.1 mm. Another is starting with a smaller seatpost (bmx for ex.) and trying to shim it in somehow (coke can or whatever). Of course this is all ymmv, but its quite difficult to find 23.8 mm seatposts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably just get the 23.4 mm one and hope for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T19:00:07.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25506" CreationDate="2014-11-06T20:59:36.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The najor difference is that Bora wheels are full carbon while Bullet are both aluminium rims with carbon profile. Also Bora wheels are tubular and Bullet are clincher rims. Still Bora are considerably lighter. And they have carbon hub bodies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for these 2 Bullet models, as you said Ultra are slightly lighter; not sure where the weight savings come from though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T20:59:36.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-06T21:14:20.983" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best revenge is riding your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, they're stuck in a car, probably dealing with stop and go traffic, other jerk drivers and literally burning money from their gas tanks.  You're on a bike, getting fresh air and exercise, probably making better time than the drivers, and definitely having a better time.  Enjoy your self.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4784" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T21:14:20.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16392" CreationDate="2014-11-06T23:55:50.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had these until the front skewer was defeated and the wheel stolen. I can't tell for certain what the method was because thankfully there was no damage to the fork. See the attached photo of scratches on the handle to the rear skewer - this makes me think a prying tool was used to apply enough force to snap something. I will not buy these again and I would not recommend them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Batman The bike could not have been inverted in order to remove the skewers. I see how in the picture it may look that way but in fact there is not nearly enough slack in the chain lock to allow that, especially with the front wheel intact - this was the first thing that I tested after the shop that sold them to me installed them. That said, the product is probably not intended to completely secure wheels. A better solution is to use additional high-security chains to lock the wheels to the frame. The reason that I like locking skewers is because I move the bike frequently and enjoy the convenience of not needing to use multiple locks or weave a chain through the wheels each time I lock up. In this case I left the bike in one place for too long (3 days) while I was preoccupied with moving. Lesson learned is to not do that again, or if I must to secure the wheels properly with additional chain locks. The reason that I am dissatisfied with the product is because it is marketed as something that is difficult to defeat, however I suspect that the quick release handles actually provide an easier opportunity for a thief to pry them off in comparison to the typical type of locking skewer that uses a key. I understand that no skewers are perfect, and all are susceptible to being defeated with brute physical force, but I think that the design of this product reduces its efficacy as a theft deterrent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1WOpi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front wheel theft - minpin defeated&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hsRb4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear wheel - minpin effective, scratched&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14342" LastEditorUserId="14361" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T22:25:25.670" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T22:25:25.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-07T01:01:41.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are few better ways to make a person who is angry, even angrier, than to engage in polite behavior. Kill 'em with kindness, as I learned years ago working Tech Support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I've not yet had the chance to employ it, my plan is to smile, wave, and call out, &quot;Love you! Mean it!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just ensure that if they go into cardiac arrest, you are not struck by them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T01:01:41.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25477" CreationDate="2014-11-07T01:06:30.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic fenders, yeah I would agree with you that they don't look good on a fixie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think metal is the perfect match for a fixie.  Might wanna consider Velo Orange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T01:06:30.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-07T01:47:24.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Share the road&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Horse drawn vehicles, cyclists, motorists, family of ducks, dumb possum and even a pedestrian pushing a cart must all share the road, no mater how fast or slow. If you want to go fast, expressways and freeways are limited access by law, are the only stretches which we may enjoy the convenience of not having to stop for a truck backing out or a child's ball being chased. Otherwise expect delays at all times and be prepared to slow down when it increases safety, approaching the posted speed limit only as conditions permit. The California Vehicle Code has eternally stated that all roads are public and we all must share them. Motorcycles are not permitted to ride directly on the line, but lane sharing is permitted by statute and so is not illegal. However empowered motorists may feel by large equipment and vehicles which occupy a great percentage of the lane width, the basic law is do that safely, not as an entitlement to be a road-hog. If it weren't for the poor attitudes of soccer mom's in SUV's in a hurry to disregard cyclists rights, California would not have had to pass a new law recently which specifically addresses the problem - The three foot rule - citations may be issued to motorists who diminish the safety margin within a three foot buffer zone around slow moving traffic. The law also states a horn is required equipment to be used to alert for safety such as two quick taps alerting a wandering cyclist of danger and the same law prohibits any other use. Citations are issued for calling to friends, summons from a residence and certainly for embellishing a complaint or harassment. CHP discourages cyclists (and motorcyclists) from &quot;flipping-off&quot; or other non-sanctioned hand signals (I &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; augment my turn-indicators with Right, Left and Stop hand-signals during all operation and conditions,) simply because road-rage kills the rider in a mass-mismatch of car vs. cycle collision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enjoy the stress-free now&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Let them honk, let them shout, snap a photo of their license plate, do your best to allow the angered driver to pass safely, and with that, then they will hopefully pass out of your life as they do so, forever - shine on you crazy diamond. If they persist as a continuing problem, post them to #baddrivers, share the photo with law enforcement and ask them to pass it around during roll-call. Savor in the thought that you will enjoy the smell and feel of fresh-cut grass between your toes and the full dome of blue sky overhead or nighttime cosmic colander canopy of stars and that you will never be trapped by a seat-belt inside a crushed steel cage upside-down in a fireball, or worse, becoming the paraplegic burn-victim who survived that. Most of all be cheerful that your heart is light, healthy and free of plaque for the rest of your stress-free ride while the weight of their out-of-shape caffeine driven time-compression in-order-to-chase-an-elusive-dream to enjoy at some vague planned future will shorten their years above ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Life is short, why hurry to the end?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;or &lt;strong&gt;Go ahead, get in front of me, you go first!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When I was fresh out of academy as Motor Safety Patrolman I had always wondered &quot;Where are all these people off to in such a hurry?&quot; I heard many similar answers, while none were identical, some were bizarre but actual reasons, offers of sex offended me and were cited for bribery, but most were mundane excuses. But at the end of my tour there was one common thread which each shared in one way or another to answer my question. They were all in a hurry to get to Forrest Lawn (the cemetery - Go ahead, get in front of me please, you go first… and don't take me with you!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14343" LastEditorUserId="14343" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T18:23:15.353" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T18:23:15.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-07T02:11:15.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Easier to wait and go around&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Way back while I was attending Jr. High School, the roads would pack with students cycling home mere moments after the bell to dismiss rang. Four days a week, every week, this hopped up red Mercury Cougar driver would harass us expecting us to ride on the sidewalk instead of the on the far right of the road as we were instructed at assembly. Then suddenly he was cool behind us or would turn and take another route. Years later I learned that one of our pack knew where he lived and every time we were harassed he woke up to three missing tire stems. (&lt;em&gt;Not a recommended solution&lt;/em&gt;, but very satisfying.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14343" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T02:11:15.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18005" CreationDate="2014-11-07T03:45:09.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a bright light, it definitely needs to be angled down somewhat, but how much really depends on the brightness + beam-spread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've got a few potentially competing/conflicting safety interests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lighting the road/path to see potholes, debris, branches, ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not blinding those in front of you (pedestrians/cyclists/drivers, perhaps even animals who'll stop like a deer in headlights)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;making yourself visible (though I use a second &lt;em&gt;visibility&lt;/em&gt; light for this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My method of dealing with this was to get someone to stand on the street while I rode toward them, changing my headlight angle each time, angling it down until they didn't find it painfully blinding. It's not very scientific, but is at least very specific to my particular lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where/how you're riding, you might want to get them to sit in a small car (if commuting, as that's likely the lowest eye-height you need to worry about), stand on the road/path, or get up on a bike (depending on the likely users of your road/trail/path/...). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should work reasonably well if your lights have a hard cut-off around the edge of the beam, and you'll hopefully end up with the road in front of you lit up (at a useful range). If it's too far, you can still move it further down (duh) but if it's basically at your front wheel you might need to find a narrower-beam light with a harder cut-off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm commuting, I tend to point it down a little lower (aimed about 3-4m in front of my bike, which is fine for my usual commute speeds with my particular light), but if I'm riding faster, on lower-traffic roads/paths, I'll have it pointed a bit higher (less people to annoy, and likely moving faster so want to see further). Mine happens to be very easy to adjust up/down, which makes this convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this only applies to lights that are specifically intended to light up the road (not to provide visibility), though I often pass riders who have the former but think it's the latter, pointed straight ahead. I think part of the blame for this lies with light reviews/recommendations, which compare both types side-by-side. I regularly see articles/blog posts along the lines of &quot;2014 bike light round-up review&quot;, which include 50–100 lumen front visibility lights alongside 200–1000 lumen headlights, failing to point out that the former are for others to see you, while the latter are for you to see the road &amp;amp; others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastEditorUserId="158" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T03:50:47.647" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T03:50:47.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25522" CreationDate="2014-11-07T03:48:59.183" Score="1" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I left my mountain bike upside down overnight as I was changing a tyre. The next morning i had a puddle of what seem to be oil next to the handle bar. Does anyone have an idea where is this coming from? As far as I am aware my disk brakes are not hydraulic would it be from my front shocks? If so how do you replace, and is it safe to ride it now before putting some oil in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/reviews/performance/power/pwr/product-reviews/Specials/Spin-Doctor-Pro-Bike-Build/MONGOOSE/p/30__1446-2009-Mongoose-Canaan-Comp-Mountain-Bike-U-S-Exclusive.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.performancebike.com/reviews/performance/power/pwr/product-reviews/Specials/Spin-Doctor-Pro-Bike-Build/MONGOOSE/p/30__1446-2009-Mongoose-Canaan-Comp-Mountain-Bike-U-S-Exclusive.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14348" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T03:55:21.413" Title="Puddle of oil when left up side down" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-07T05:47:56.710" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may sound simplistic. It's probably something you already do, and you can develop it further with practice and awareness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acknowledge your feelings: &quot;That interaction was very painful. I didn't like that at all.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then gently let them go: &quot;Everything is OK. I am safe, and life keeps on going. This is great weather. When I get home, I'm going to listen to one of my favorite podcasts.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T05:47:56.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25520" CreationDate="2014-11-07T07:10:58.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presuming it came out of the bike, probably oil from Hydraulic brakes. Although the link does not specify things in detail - A 2009 bike with Tora Rock shox and Deore components would almost certainly have had hydraulic brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the brakes are working and not spongy. If in any doubt take it to the LBS for a check over - a leak from the shocks needs fixing but would not be the same seriousness as a leak from brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T07:10:58.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-07T09:53:53.093" Score="3" ViewCount="1411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of several methods of sizing a chain for a bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As many links as the previous chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small-small. The RD should be barely expanded, the chain nearly rubbing against itself roller-cogs. The logic here is to be able to have the &lt;strong&gt;longest&lt;/strong&gt; possible chain, that still allows shifting into any gear combination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vertical rollers. Shift big front small rear. The rollers on the RD should be in a vertical line, below the cogs. In this position the RD is in a good &lt;strong&gt;working point&lt;/strong&gt;, because it's spring is both tensioned (and thus stiff against vibrations) and not over-elongated (and suffering accelerated wear). This is the medium working point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Big-big without the derailleur. Without threading the chain through the RD, measure big-big and add 2 links.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what is the motivation of the last method. To me, not threading the chain through the RD just doesn't make any sense. What physical quantity is being measured by shifting to big-big and why are 2 links being added?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;As a side note, I recently tested all of those, and no two returned the same result.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T10:12:21.827" Title="What's the logic behind this chain length estimation method?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25523" CreationDate="2014-11-07T10:12:21.827" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Big-big and through the dérailleur is the most chain you'll ever need as you can't shift to any gear which takes more chain than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will then need to add some links to take into account the extra chain required to go through the dérailleur.  2 links is the least amount you can add and when the rear mech is as stretched out as it would near maximum extension, the chain doesn't need to be much longer to accommodate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically you could put the chain on big-big and through the dérailleur and try and gauge how long the chain should be for the mech to be almost fully extended but not quite, but by doing big-big plus 2, you should get a similar result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your side note that each method gives different results, this could be because there is no correct answer.  The big-big plus two gives you a safe chain length in that if you were to shift into big-big there would be sufficient chain to do this.  If you don't cross-chain, you could get away with a shorter chain length, but risk damaging something if you were to shift into big-big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13682" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T10:12:21.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-07T11:29:08.453" Score="1" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nowadays TIME hardly sponsors professional cycling teams at least with their frames, and I feel others like LOOK, De Rosa or Cervélo are also leaning away from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why it happens? Do they think their reputations are already established enough and thus they don't need to promote and advertise products anymore? Or are they running out of money and can't afford to offer teams a better deal than others? Or the quality of their frame are actually inferior and they don't want to let people be aware of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having nothing against companies like Specialized or Canyon, but I kinda feel sad to see multiple teams share the same bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14337" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T22:10:31.690" Title="Why some companies stop supplying frames to pro teams?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25506" CreationDate="2014-11-07T14:54:22.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;BORA ULTRA 80&#xA;BULLET ULTRA 80MM&#xA;BULLET 80MM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question in part relates to Campagnolo nomenclature that extends across the wheel range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where a wheel is described as &quot;Ultra&quot; you will find a carbon hub body with alloy flanges bonded on, and an open bearing system. The bearing system may be ceramic-on-steel running in a grease bath (called USB) or may be ceramic-on-stainless steel (called CULT). The Bullet 80 Ultra is available in both versions, the Bora 80 Ultra only in the CULT version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-Ultra wheels have an all-alloy hub and runs on sealed cartridge bearings which have a higher pre-load, and therefore more rolling resistance than their &quot;open&quot; counterparts. The wheel is also heavier as the cartridge bearings and the alloy hub shell weigh more than their Ultra counterparts. They are, though, less expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a difference in the tyres that these wheels are designed for, in that Bora are designed for tubular tyres which are bonded to the rim, wheras Bullet in both &quot;normal&quot; and &quot;Ultra&quot; format are designed for clincher-type tyres which fit like &quot;normal&quot; cycle tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are racing at elite level, tubular tyres, although generally felt to offer better roadholding and to be &quot;faster&quot; are probably a complication that you neither want nor need. If a tubulat tyre punctues, in practical terms,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T14:54:22.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8233" CreationDate="2014-11-07T16:21:41.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this has a lot of answers but I had had a route around a beautiful lake with a pack of (I think domestic) dogs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on fear I carried dog spray but as a dog lover it was a last resort. &#xA;Is the dog just chasing you for fun or does it really want to bite you? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pack of dogs has a different mentality just like a pack of people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would always circle the lake in a direction that I was on a downhill in their domain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the uphill coming in I would never stop pedaling so they did not hear the click click. &#xA;If they crested the hill I would just turn around. &#xA;On an uphill you are at a severe disadvantage as speed and you need both hand on the bars - you don't have a hand for dog spray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the downhill I would point at the pack so they would have to scatter and then just outrun them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day they got me clean from the side when I had just crested the hill without much speed. &#xA;Lead dog was turning his head to bite my calf and I got him clean in both eyes. &#xA;The whole pack stopped chasing me. &#xA;After that all I had to do was hold up the can of spray and they let me pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T16:21:41.040" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-11-07T16:21:41.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3877" CreationDate="2014-11-07T17:18:54.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding MTB: The taper allows for a bigger lower bearing while keeping the upper bearing smaller. The lower bearing receives a greater part of the load as most of the time it carries all the weight applied to the headtube and transmits it to the fork. The upper bearing mostly deals with side forces that try to &quot;bend&quot; the fork, i.e. cornering and braking forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also allows for greater contact surface between steerer and crown, which translates into a much more resistant joint. This in turn allows for a longer travel fork that does not require an upper crown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final result is that you get a more aggressive front end, without the penalty of adding too much weight and also keeping the bike visually light (double crowns look like motorcycle stuff). These characteristics are preferred for All Mountain and Enduro bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another benefit of keeping the upper part of the steerer tube small is that you can still use regular stems and stem spacers, star nuts and top caps, which keeps compatibility with a huge range of components already available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T02:10:33.037" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T02:10:33.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-07T17:34:43.187" Score="8" ViewCount="13660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't pinpoint what I'm doing wrong while inflating my tubes.  I use presta valves and have a &quot;Joe Blow&quot; Topeak pump.  I put the tube stem at 12 o'clock, I unscrew the tip of the tube stem (but not too hard), press to let out some air, place the pump head on, lock it on, inflate to 120 psi (as recommended on the tire), then reverse all procedures, trying to keep everything straight (not wiggling the pump head too much).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I inflate before every ride but didn't think that was a problem as long as I'm letting some air out before pumping and am not inflating beyond the max. psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, after a couple weeks (riding about 3 times per week), the part of the tube stem that screws up and down is gone, and a few weeks later, after inflating, all the air rushes out when I take the pump off, then it won't hold air again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time I replaced a tube for this reason, I decided to keep the little nut in place at the base of the stem near the tire (though my mechanic says it's unnecessary) and to keep the dust cap on the stem.  I'm thinking these two items might not be necessary to most folks, but they'll perhaps protect against whatever I'm doing wrong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14360" LastActivityDate="2020-03-03T00:20:50.377" Title="I keep breaking the tips off my presta tube stems" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25530" CreationDate="2014-11-07T17:54:18.723" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also use a Joe Blow on my prestas.  After I had a couple valve stems bend and/or break, I started making sure I only unscrew the stem a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; bit.  My theory was that by unscrewing the stem all the way up, it was easier to bend or break when pulling the pump head off.  Haven't had it happen again since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6796" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T17:54:18.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25530" CreationDate="2014-11-07T17:57:37.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use those two items - retaining screw and cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the valve there are actually two sets of threads &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One to open and close&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two to remove the core&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you unscrew to far / hard the core comes out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probable loosened the core and then it blew out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sets of tubes just don't have the core very tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a tool to remove the core - it is also used to tighten it. &#xA;Tighten the core. &#xA;I even use a dab of locktite but don't get it in the rubber mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tubes do not have serviceable cores (won't come out). &#xA;You would probably be better off with those type of tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I get a flat I save the core, retaining nut, and cap so I have spares.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T17:57:37.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-07T17:58:40.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;See them as human, with, alas, human limitations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People react first based on reflex including fight-or-flight, then based on their beliefs, their mood, recent experiences and experiences earlier in their history.  Then after a while - &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; they are calm - they may start noticing the present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;It's not about you.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  It's about their history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Driving requires intense focus and elevates reactivity.  Totally relax and you'd go off the road!  Drivers are a bit wound up to start with.  &lt;em&gt;Not about you.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A driver whips around a curve and find you and an oncoming car:  shot of adrenaline triggers fight-or-flight.  They are now shocked, scared, maybe angry.  This happened right after they saw you, therefore (they think) you made them feel that way (&lt;em&gt;post-hoc, ergo pocter-hoc&lt;/em&gt;) and they react.  Maybe they're embarrassed because they shouldn't have been going that fast.  &lt;em&gt;Not so much about you.&lt;/em&gt;  Do leave a safe path for cars to get past...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're late for an appointment, feel out of control of the situation and are frustrated, impatient, maybe scared.  You're slowing them down (by a few seconds).  You'll see a disproportionate reaction.  &lt;em&gt;Not so much about you.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They just had a fight or were bullied and are wound up:  &lt;em&gt;not about you.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice I have for you is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;focus on your own safety first; includes being visible, your path is predictable to drivers, and that they have a safe path to follow and don't have to choose between hitting you and going off the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have compassion for yourself and for them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be kind and courteous, don't pass rudeness on.  &quot;Rudeness:  the gift that keeps on giving&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Keep your stick on the ice.  We're all in this together&quot;  &lt;br&gt;- Red Green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14354" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T17:58:40.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25687" CreationDate="2014-11-07T18:03:12.070" Score="1" ViewCount="1462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the freewheel on my bicycle with a singlespeed. However, the chain line appears to move inwards from the rear to the front. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/murwv03kh0m8xse/Photo%20Nov%2004%2C%201%2026%2045%20PM.jpg?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have measured the rear frame spacing as approx. 127mm. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/6f78fef5q0rs28g/Photo%20Nov%2007%2C%204%2022%2006%20PM.jpg?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt; I then measured the distance from the center of the freewheel (teeth) to the inside of the rear fork, which was 25.4mm. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/6jz3w5sakuhm5sb/Photo%20Nov%2007%2C%204%2019%2035%20PM.jpg?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;picture&lt;/a&gt; As per Sheldon Brown's website, the rear chainline measurement calculates to 38.1mm. I have measured the distance from the teeth of the chainring to the middle of the seat tube which is approx. 42mmm. Does the difference between the front and rear need to be within 1mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the only way I can achieve a straighter chainline is by removing the bottom bracket cartridge ring and placing a 2.5mm BB spacer from eBay between the ring and the BB shell. But I'm not sure this would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, could I add a slightly longer spacer to the rear axle on the freewheel side, a shorter spacer on the non-drive side to move the rear chainline inwards and then redish the wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12758" LastEditorUserId="12758" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T18:24:04.943" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T14:13:50.310" Title="Singlespeed chainline adjustment" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25530" CreationDate="2014-11-07T18:11:18.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The retaining nut will help keep the valve in one position, which might solve a part of the problem. As for the cap, I don't think it's necessary - it will only protect the valve from weather conditions and dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a shop pump like Joe Blow a bit more reliable option is to place the valve at 6 o'clock position for pumping. When it's at 12 o'clock the hose comming from the bottom might exert some force on the valve stem bending it slightly every time you pump the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've only broken the valve stem a few times and it was only because of wobbling around the pump (a compact hand pump) when removing it. I use retaining nuts, but I don't put caps on the valves, and haven't had any problems for the past 2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T18:11:18.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25534" CreationDate="2014-11-07T20:34:16.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you move the chainring on the crank arm?  I can't tell from your picture if it used to be a double or not? I have an old schwinn that I converted to fixed and had the exact opposite issue (chain line moved away from the bike).  I wanted the 52T large chain ring to stay so I moved it to the inner ring position.  This is probably not ideal, but I've had no issues in 10 years on it.  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jbvE4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14301" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T20:34:16.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-07T20:53:42.853" Score="5" ViewCount="12234" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many standards for bottom brackets have been gaining popularity recently such as BB30 and PF30. What are the benefits of these press fit systems over the threaded system that has prevailed for decades? Any drawbacks to be aware of? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14178" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T23:44:55.673" Title="What are the advantages/disadvantages of press fit bottom brackets compared with threaded?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-07T22:44:51.137" Score="0" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a Masi Fixie Riser with a flip/flop hub (gearing on both sides) and brakes, but the rims aren't machined. Is this common on $700+ single speeds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14365" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T23:03:21.150" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T01:16:49.673" Title="Do single speed/fixed bicycles come with machined rims?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25540" CreationDate="2014-11-07T23:01:33.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this common? Assuming your brakes are rim brakes: no, it's not common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also something that's known to happen. But it's a pretty bonehead spec, IMO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T23:01:33.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25540" CreationDate="2014-11-07T23:02:10.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the fixie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of them don't because brakes are not cool among the fixie riding population (since they primarily want deep V rims to look nice and resistance braking). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for not having machined rims, depending on what the rim is coated with it can be OK -- if its powdercoated/painted for example, it will be too slippery to brake, but annodized surfaces can be used for braking just fine. The rims on the Masi should be annodized so you should be good for braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-11-08T00:07:40.083" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T00:07:40.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25538" CreationDate="2014-11-07T23:44:55.673" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's cheaper to manufacture cups, even with fine surface finish and reasonable tolerances than threaded shells.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Especially with carbon frames there was an issue with inserting threaded shells which needed to have perfectly parallel faces. With press-fit cups and cartridge bearings having some factory loose, the tolerances are not so strict.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A press-fit bearings are just a bit quicker to install. The difference may not be huge, but is significant when assemblig thousands of bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removing a threaded bottom bracket after a few years can be a daunting experience. Especially when no grease/thread glue was applied and it was mounted on a steel frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread could easily be damaged when replacing a bottom bracket without care.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A new standard is always a good opportunity to use for the advertising department.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although sometimes recommended, no tools are usually needed for installation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvanteges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press-fit connections wear out more quickly when you replace the bearings often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bearings which have to account for imperfections in cup mounting, don't last quite as long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible to re-thread a damaged bottom bracket shell thread while it would be way more complicated to replace press-fit cups.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bearing removal requires care and experience to protect cup surface from damaging.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more diferences, but they are more specific to a given type of bottom brackets, and the ones above are more general. Most of the advantages of press-fit are felt by the manufacturers rather than users, although I do appreciate the ease of installation of these bottom brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T23:44:55.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-08T00:34:31.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just get over it. Ignore it. Most importantly be careful and try and stay out of the way. After all, cars (while most will try and avoid you) are definitely heavier than bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in an area that's heavy with bicycles and some (very small percentage) do blow right through the red lights and stop signs, almost hitting me and my little girl on many occasions. So, in an ironic way, I know how you feel. But because my little one sees my reactions, I have to just let it go since not all cyclists are jerks and she takes in everything I do. It is sort of like ignoring a barking dog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for you pondering whether you might be a jerk. Well, if you are asking then it's worth considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14366" LastEditorUserId="3639" LastEditDate="2014-11-08T09:59:29.917" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T09:59:29.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25546" CreationDate="2014-11-05T12:48:50.207" Score="6" ViewCount="3858" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning (still in planning phase since last 1 month :( ) to use bicycle as my commute to and from office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My office is around 18 km away from my home. Almost half the road will be full of traffic. Everyone in my family has already told me that 36 km per day will be too much and I wont be able to continue cycling for long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware that initially it will be tough to go 36 km per day but I think after month or so my body will get used to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am wondering how much km do other people go per day? What are your experiences about cycling? and 36 km per day is too much distance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; : Finally I bought one cycle against everyone's suggestion (family members and friends) and started cycling to the office. I must say it is a tough job to start cycling after 10 years but I am enjoying it. It takes me almost the same time to reach office. On my motorcycle I used reach office in 40 minutes and on cycle it takes me around 50 minutes. Dust, pollution and other people yanking horns from behind is the biggest headache for me now. I hope that I will get used to it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone for your encouragement, suggestions and answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14433" OwnerDisplayName="Shekhar" LastEditorUserId="14433" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T05:07:21.940" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T05:07:21.940" Title="Bicycling 36 km per day in city traffic is feasible?" Tags="&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25545" CreationDate="2014-11-05T16:22:01.260" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a co-worker who rides into work on a ~30 mile one way trip. It's no problem for him because he's a good cyclist, has a good bike, and is used to that kind of distance. He's got his saddle worked out, his form is good, his lights are good, and he knows his route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem he has is dealing with a locker room, and needing to move clothes back and forth. He usually drives in on Friday to haul his used up work clothes back his house. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things I would focus on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The logistics of clothes, weather, being clean, and your schedule.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knowing how to fix a flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having a back up plan when you wake up and it's raining/snowing/hailing outside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting used to the mileage. If you've never really ridden before you'll be dealing with soreness, kinks, and gear issues. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good bike maintenance. If you keep everything lubed up, fix little issues before they get big, and can do your own work (or most of it) you'll have a lot less problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was riding my bike your distance to work when I was 14 years old, but I was also a competitive cyclist so the distance was nothing. A mid-range competitive cyclist can easily pack away 400 mile weeks in the winter so your co-workers are nuts that it's not possible given you have the body and bike to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15724" OwnerDisplayName="Eric Kaufman" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T16:22:01.260" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25545" CreationDate="2014-11-05T18:03:50.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traffic is definitely an issue, adding to the important concerns Eric had described.  Since automobiles have vastly different dynamics, and drivers often do not expect anything but other cars on the road, your presence will often be an unpleasant surprise for the less attentive of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest wearing a good helmet and not these tiny plastic caps (possibly with face cover — sadly it is not scandalous to hear about a cyclist breaking their teeth and/or nose upon impact), gloves which you will trust with protecting your hands on contact with asphalt on 35 km/h, knee and elbow protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also a must to be making yourself visible to the drivers.  Blinking LED front light (but not too bright or with adjustable brightness so that you will not be blinding and distracting people at darker hours), large and bright red back light, LED-lined vest if you can find it, other red lights directed to the ground, the more the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Mischa Arefiev" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T18:03:50.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25545" CreationDate="2014-11-06T20:11:56.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traffic varies a lot between countries - my guess is that it quite a different thing in India than in Denmark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the last 20 years many Danish cities have been completely re-designed to better accommodate the many bikes - often by reducing the number or width of the car lanes to make room for dedicated bike lanes. And for a city like Copenhagen, it has been a huge success where more than 20% of the morning traffic is by bike on the more than 450 km bike lanes and tracks (you can find a lot of information from &lt;a href=&quot;http://subsite.kk.dk/sitecore/content/subsites/cityofcopenhagen/subsitefrontpage/livingincopenhagen/cityandtraffic/cityofcyclists.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the concil&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bAwCb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This picture is from downtown Copenhagen an Autumn morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the odd accident with a right-turning lorry, biking in Copenhagen is a relatively safe experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many years I went 2*20 km each day to and from work. As stated elsewhere the main problem was getting a locker room and handling you clothes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3714" OwnerDisplayName="Tonny Madsen" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T20:11:56.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25545" CreationDate="2014-11-08T05:29:48.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's all relative. I ride 8 km each way to work, and I ride all year in the wet and rainy Pacific Northwest of Washington State.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a guy at work who rides about 22 km each way, and he too rides all year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My route puts me in traffic most of the way, but Washington State is regarded as the most bike friendly state in the U.S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your question of feasible, if one is fit enough then the distance won't be a challenge. I'm 47, and I rode my first two Centuries (100 mile rides) earlier this year. In terms of the traffic, really only you can gauge it and decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T05:29:48.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25451" CreationDate="2014-11-08T09:46:46.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must realize that people do not have free will.  The best neuroscience researchers currently tend to agree that the so-called &quot;free will&quot; is just an illusion.  Of course, if some &quot;soul&quot; existed, it would probably support &quot;free will&quot; but the scientists do not believe in such things as soul and neither do I.  Because we just have a finite number of atoms in our brains and that's all there is in there, our behaviour is a product of an very complicated and perhaps non-deterministic algorithm, so complex in fact, that it creates an illusion of free will.  But we have no more free will really, than a bird that poops on you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having realized that, it then becomes pointless to be angry at other people.  There is no point, just like there is no point to be angry at the bird that pooped on you.  The bad behaviour of people is a product of their bad algorithm in their brains.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of being angry at them, you instead, be thankful to Nature for the luck that you have, that by pure chance, you happened to get a better algorithm in your brain.  You should thank your lucky stars for that, and have pity on these poor beings that don't have such a nice algorithm, and hope that maybe in the future science will be able to fix their algorithms a little.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14368" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T09:46:46.400" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25553" CreationDate="2014-11-08T13:59:30.870" Score="0" ViewCount="1099" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a total newbie with bike repair and  I can't figure out this hanger/direct to frame business. Googling doesn't help much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the current derailleur and the new one I bought. The mount doesn't look the same. I was wondering if it could still work or if I definitely need to exchange the one I bought for a more appropriate one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0A2C.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i0A2C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14371" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T21:54:09.130" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T21:54:09.130" Title="Did i buy the wrong derailleur? (mech hanger/direct to frame)" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25551" CreationDate="2014-11-08T14:44:17.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears from your photo that you indeed have the wrong style derailleur. Your frame appears to have vertical dropouts and a frame derailleur mount. The derailleur you purchased is designed for a frame with horizontal axle slots. Since the derailleur hanger mounts under the axle nut your frame doesn't have a slot big enough for it to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T14:44:17.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25298" CreationDate="2014-11-08T20:11:38.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to do it the &quot;professional&quot; way, you would need some quite specialist equipment to fill the brain unit with oil and nitrogen properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I have heard of people doing it on their own. The most complex tutorial I've seen is here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://huckingkitty.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&amp;amp;t=720&quot;&gt;http://huckingkitty.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&amp;amp;t=720&lt;/a&gt; (note: I havent tried this and can't guarantee that this is correct).&#xA;It does use nitrogen but at least the oil issue is solved simply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still there are some issues with this: for instance oil viscosity is not given. Also if we wanted to fill the Brain unit with air instead of nitrogen (yes, some people try this) the valve needs some modifications (I don't know precisely what modifications), and the air pressure is a matter of discussion. &#xA;So the entire thing is quite complicated and I can't recommend doing it yourself unless you feel really confident in DIY stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T20:11:38.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-08T20:48:17.020" Score="1" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to build a camping trailer for my vintage Schwin Le Tour. I want to ride my bike across country and camp in this the whole way. I was wondering if anyone has done this before, and if anyone has tips for building one! Id really appreciate it!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14374" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T02:47:16.827" Title="How to build a Camping trailer, and riding across country with it" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-01-30T17:43:15.230" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25558" CreationDate="2014-11-08T22:40:52.420" Score="2" ViewCount="478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm buying a Cannondale CAADX 105 Disc and I'm planning on installing a hub dynamo, perhaps an SP PD-8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) I haven't done this before, but judging by what I have seen on YouTube: Get the new spoke length right, make sure spokes are &quot;woven&quot; in the proper order and then true the wheel. Are there any pitfalls where a newbie like me would think that everything was in order to leave me with an unpleasant surprise on the test ride or on my bicycle vacation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) Since the nipples are brand new, is it sufficient to only buy new spokes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.) Would it be possible to buy a new wheel with the dynamo installed already? I have looked around but not managed to find anything other than very, very basic wheels with dynamos online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14377" LastEditorUserId="14377" LastEditDate="2014-11-08T23:35:14.207" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T02:46:38.170" Title="Install hub dynamo on new cyclocross" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;nipples&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32220" CreationDate="2014-11-08T23:01:26.050" Score="5" ViewCount="3717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just overhauled some cheap bmx hubs. I installed new bearings and cones. Now I'm trying to get the hubs adjusted so that the bearings &lt;strong&gt;will last as long as possible.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had always thought that leaving bearings even a tiny bit loose (be it bb, pedal, or hub) was one of the cardinal sins when it came to maintaining a bike. But reading this from Sheldon Brown put that in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If nothing you can do will eliminate both the binding and the play at&#xA;  the same time, it is better to adjust a little loose and accept a&#xA;  slight amount of play then to have the hub bind&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the situation I'm in. Is a little bit of bearing play a legitimate option? Will my bearings wear down more quickly if they are slightly binding or if they are slightly loose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T00:09:12.887" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T00:09:12.887" Title="Will slightly loose bearings result in damage?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25556" CreationDate="2014-11-09T02:46:38.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Wheel building is non-trivial and takes practice but there are some good &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;references&lt;/a&gt; (and J. Brandst, The Bicycle Wheel). I don't know if a dynamo hub will be harder than a normal hub, but the first order of business is finding a decent dynamo hub which takes a disc rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) On reusing nipples: Given how cheap nipples are, why would you bother? Though you can probably get away with it safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) A built wheel is probably your best bet (along with selling the old wheel to get some of the money you're going to have to put into even getting a decent hub dynamo). Some people like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Peter White Cycles&lt;/a&gt; (no affiliation) do wheel building for many compatible decent hub+rim combination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you'll need access to a few pieces of special equipment for wheel building on top of the components - a truing stand, a spoke wrench, a dish stick and a spoke tensiometer. [Well, you don't &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need the last two but they'll make your life easier]. So if you're looking to just save money (and it sounds like you are with question 2), you might find that in net, getting the wheel built by someone whose good at wheel building and stands by their work saves you money in net (and time too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T02:46:38.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25520" CreationDate="2014-11-09T03:45:14.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost certainly oil from your shocks or brakes. Neither are designed  to be upside down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that in  rare cases if the drain holes in your bottom bracket or chainstays are plugged up, you can get moisture accumulation in your frame. That can mix with oil and dirt from your BB and headset and drain out of other areas when the bike is upside down. The resultant black gook can look like oil, with the only caveat that it will actually evaporate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you leave your bike outside in the rain, it's a good idea to: 1) don't do that; 2) make sure the drain hole is clear if you have one; 3) if not, occasionally remove the seat and try to drain moisture out that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-11-09T03:55:21.413" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T03:55:21.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-09T16:24:38.037" Score="7" ViewCount="16635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a super quick question here, my daughter (she's 5 years old) rides her bicycle extensively, to the point of the actual tire has worn clear through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't think it would be this difficult, but I can't seem to find a direct replacement for her tires &lt;em&gt;anywhere&lt;/em&gt; (her tires are 14 x 1.95).  I see plenty of 14 x 2.125 tires, would that work and be a direct replacement that'll fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what else to do at this point, but if we can't find new tires then we'd be forced to unnecessarily buy a whole new bicycle for her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts or ideas?  I have searched common stores, as well as checked online and there just seems to be no 14 x 1.95 tires available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14381" LastActivityDate="2019-09-15T17:02:08.287" Title="Replacing 14&quot; x 1.95&quot; With 14&quot; x 2.125&quot;?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25563" CreationDate="2014-11-09T16:40:27.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on if the bike frame has room. &#xA;That is less than a 10% difference. &#xA;If you can get the tip of your little finger between the tire and the frame with the 1.95 then most likely it will take a 2.125.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-09T16:51:46.917" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T16:51:46.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25563" CreationDate="2014-11-09T18:21:16.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I want to &quot;second the motion&quot; by Daniel R Hicks to read Sheldon Brown's excellent page on tire sizes:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14-inch tires are not particularly common. In fact, Sheldon Brown's charts include 16&quot; and 12-1/2&quot; tires, but they don't mention 14&quot; tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, ebay lists some, including 1.75, 2.00 and 2.125, but, as  you've found, no 14x1.95.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a &quot;completed auctions&quot; search finds that a couple of people have sold &lt;em&gt;tubes&lt;/em&gt; for 14&quot; x 1.75/1.95/2.125 tires, which suggests to me that those three tire sizes must be pretty close to one another:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the &quot;Width Considerations&quot; chart&lt;/a&gt; on Sheldon Brown's page, you can see recommendations for how much variation is acceptable in tire widths. In general, it indicates that a 5-7 mm deviation from optimal is acceptable, and he says that the chart is conservative. 1.95 x 25.4 mm/inch = 49.53 mm, so you need a tire width between about 43 and 56 mm, which is 1.69 to 2.20 inches. 1.75, 2.00, and 2.125 are all in that range, so I think any of them will probably work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an eBay seller selling a &quot;New 14&quot; Kenda black tire&quot; for $5 plus shipping. You could get a pair for about $20, including shipping. They are 14x1.75.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of today, someone on eBay is selling:  &quot;Kids Bicycle White Wall Tires and Tubes 14x1.75 Fits 1.95 2.125 BMX 14&quot; Stroller&quot; so maybe they would work. Here's a search which finds it (and some tubes):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=m570.l1313&amp;amp;_nkw=14+%281.95%2C1.75%29&amp;amp;_sacat=185023&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=m570.l1313&amp;amp;_nkw=14+%281.95%2C1.75%29&amp;amp;_sacat=185023&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14382" LastEditorUserId="14382" LastEditDate="2019-09-15T17:02:08.287" LastActivityDate="2019-09-15T17:02:08.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17816" CreationDate="2014-11-09T19:58:23.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wax my chains, which means they have to come off the bike every 700-800 km for lubing.  You're crackers if you think I'm going to buy a new PowerLink every two weeks.  But I had a (non-Sram) chain blow up on an out-of-saddle climb a couple of years back, sending me arse over tea kettle onto the tarmac (thankfully with only with minor cuts and bruises), so I also am all to aware of the possible consequences of another master link letting go under heavy load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I learnt of Sram's no-reuse advise (no, I'd never bothered to read the instructions), when the chain comes off for re-waxing, I take a digital macro-photographs of the PowerLink with a Nikon Coolpix camera that has a really extraordinary macro mode.  This not only lets me examine the link in great detail on the PC looking for signs of cracking or stress fatigue, it also lets me compare to the original pic to determine how much it's changed.  I reckon this is as certain as I can be short of magnafluxing the links or x-raying them, neither of which am I equipped to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today makes 14 times I've waxed this chain -- and macro photographed it -- since I started caring.  I don't have the chi-chi Park tool but I am very deliberate when I remove.reinstall it, never forcing it, and as yet, it shows little sign of deterioration, and no signs of impending failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that doesn't mean it doesn't weigh on my mind every time I'm climbing out of the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14384" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T19:58:23.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25569" CreationDate="2014-11-10T01:25:37.797" Score="2" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on flying to Japan for a bicycle vacation early this spring. Having had a look at flight bags, I'm puzzled. They are expensive, weigh tons and are huge, I couldn't feasibly bring them with me on my bicycle trek. I might be able to rent storage for roughly a month in Tokyo, but it seems like quite a tedious project on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do the rest of you manage? Remove the wheels and wrap the thing up in (EDIT: cardboard and) plastic-wrap on the airport, have it checked in instead of luggage, and then use the panniers as carry-on luggage? Is it safe? Has anyone had their bicycle damaged or stolen during transport?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14377" LastEditorUserId="14377" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T03:17:08.293" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T05:40:52.503" Title="Cyclocross on airplane" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25567" CreationDate="2014-11-10T01:47:37.200" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wrap your bike in plastic is not an option.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pay a shop to box in cardboard.&#xA;In Tokyo pay a shop to assemble.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the trip back pay a shop to disassemble and box in cardboard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With assembly, disassembly, boxing, and shipping you are going to pay $1000.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You might want to look at rental.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are bikes built for shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T01:47:37.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25567" CreationDate="2014-11-10T02:04:52.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For packing, a box from a bike shop will do fine and you can chuck it in the recycling when you get to Tokyo and find another before flying out. Most bike shops will give these to you if you ask nicely and even if they charge you, it ain't going to be much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much bigger issue is airline choice. Options for flying with a bike range from free to pay by the kilo in excess charges to some obscene special bike charge. Read up and check the baggage allowances for sporting goods very carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you fly a lot, get a loyalty card, the extra 10kg you get on most airlines' lowest tier covers a bike in a box nicely. And if you get some special luggage tags, that can't hurt either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike has survived a few flights totally unharmed, this was in a bike box though. Though I do have friends who have shipped a lot of bikes all over the place in cardboard and I've never heard of any problems. Not that it can't happen, it's just unlikely. You can't move for bikes/bike shops in Tokyo so getting spares isn't going to be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting your bike stolen is not going to happen. Walking out of the secure side of an airport with a bike up your jumper is going to raise eyebrows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T02:04:52.697" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25563" CreationDate="2014-11-10T02:11:38.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few words of caution. As others have noted, 14&quot; tires aren't terribly common, but they do exist. In fact, Schwalbe lists two different ISO sized 14&quot; tires (288 and 298). Make you you get the proper ISO sized 14&quot; tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/tubes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/tubes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T02:11:38.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25567" CreationDate="2014-11-10T02:26:39.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic wrap? Really? Have you seen what happens to regular luggage on airlines these days? Aside from baggage handlers occasionally throwing stuff around, you have all the conveyors and drops and what not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are bikes like the Travelers' Check built with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sandsmachine.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SS couplers&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QzdQS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which are designed to pack down for flights and stuff (and folding bikes and what not). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you're insistent on taking your bike, pack it in bike bag and fly it. Hardshell (few hundred bucks) is toughest, but the most expensive. Softshell is cheaper and more padded (few hundred bucks). A cardboard box is an option (few bucks), but if the box gets wet or something, it could fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2014/06/flying-with-your-bike-tips-from-a-baggage-handler/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; has inside perspectives from a baggage handler who is a cyclist who suggests softshell since it will load better on a bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheaper option in net may be to just buy and sell a bike in Japan or rent one there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T02:26:39.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25567" CreationDate="2014-11-10T05:40:52.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a bike to Italy in 2012, in a &lt;em&gt;soft&lt;/em&gt; bike bag, which weighed ~2kg. The bag was borrowed from my brother who travels frequently with bikes; I followed his advice ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bag was my only luggage - &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; I was taking was packed in the bag, and around the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before going, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I obtained a &quot;fork cover&quot; for the front fork (a thing like a horses bit that fits into the forks where the axle usually goes), so that the fork ends didn't poke through the bag. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removed both wheels and wrapped them in bubble wrap. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Took the chain off the front ring, so that the derailleur could fold up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrapped the chain, derailleurs, and chain rings in cardboard. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrapped every part of the frame in bubble wrap, with the handle bars turned sideways.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strapped the wheels to the frame, then added the rest of my luggage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Alex has said - check the airline carefully. I flew with Qatar (it wasn't cheap); when I arrived in Rome I had to go to a special baggage office to collect my bike. I was delighted with the reverence with which the staff handed me my precious steed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I unpacked it, everything was 100% fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T05:40:52.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25575" CreationDate="2014-11-10T05:49:31.027" Score="5" ViewCount="3894" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to teach my daughter how to use clipless pedals and got wondering if there were any advantages of pushing off from a start with the left leg or right leg. Is there any difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add a bit of context. She'll be mainly bunch riding with a school group using a road bike on sealed roads. We live in a country where traffic drives on the left hand side of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit:&lt;/em&gt; Thanks for the answers. A couple of my own thoughts are: 1) in athletics, there are analogs of &quot;no right answers, whichever feels right&quot;. For sprint starting blocks, a simple test is: relax and push the person forward. Whichever leg is extended to arrest the fall is the back leg in the starting block. It's nice to have an informal test like that. 2) camber of the road: our roads have a reasonable camber, and I tend to ground my foot on the lower side of the camber: would it be better to ground the foot on the higher side of the camber?, 3) if most of the bunch uses one leg, would it be better to do the same so that you all lean toward the same direction when you stop at lights etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13433" LastEditorUserId="13433" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T08:07:04.923" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:14:55.380" Title="Push off with left or right leg" Tags="&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25573" CreationDate="2014-11-10T06:04:37.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't really a difference that matters. Whatever she finds most comfortable (typically, clipping out with the less dominant leg) is what she should use. I find myself clipping out my right leg even though it is dominant in some cases so I can put one foot on the curb in some cases when riding with clipless pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key thing is to practice clipless pedals until she gets the hang of it before going out on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T06:04:37.177" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25573" CreationDate="2014-11-10T06:52:25.933" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I taught my daughter to use clipless pedals by putting her bike on a wind trainer while she watched television. I got her pedals that are flat on one side with SPD's on the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A random intervals I'd call &quot;left foot down&quot;, or &quot;right foot down&quot;, trying to time my call for the most inconvenient moment. And as I mentioned in comments, I never did tell her that everyone eventually falls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When she was comfortable with those exercises, she started riding on the road with her new pedals. Sometimes she would ride with the flat pedals, but she quickly came to like the feeling of confidence that comes from knowing one's feet wont slip off the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After four years she still hasn't (yet) fallen because of the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question - it doesn't really matter which leg they usually push off with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; matter that they learn to be able to start and stop on either leg. In my observation falls come when the rider &quot;has the pedals wrong&quot; when they make an emergency stop. They need to be &lt;em&gt;confidently&lt;/em&gt; able to unclip and stop with either foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit - re the additional points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To restate my previous paragraph in a different way: it matters for her safety that she be able to start and stop on either foot. Not all stops are preplanned. It's the sudden stops that lead to falls, where the rider gets themselves tangled up trying to get the wrong foot out of their pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For starting, it's a great help to be able to start from either foot also. It's normal to have a favoured foot, and it doesn't matter which one it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;em&gt;if most of the bunch uses one leg, would it be better to do the same so that you all lean toward the same direction when you stop at lights etc?&lt;/em&gt; No, IMHO you are over-thinking it at this point. I suspect you are thinking that because the bikes are leaning when they are stationary, that everyone will wobble or turn in that direction as they start off. If that is what happens, then I suggest that they are not ready to ride on the road. In practice, I just don't see experienced riders (including my own daughter) wobble that much. And the amount they do wobble seems random: members of the bunch push off at slightly different times, and make their first pedal stroke with different levels of effort. And when they stop, the bunch will generally stop in a random arrangement, depending on how hard they were concentrating, who they were taking to, what gear change they were trying to make, etc, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the conclusion hasn't changed: no it doesn't matter which leg, but she should be able to use either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T10:33:14.660" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T10:33:14.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-10T07:25:49.847" Score="4" ViewCount="4726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I first remember hearing hate for presta valve caps in the video where Lance Armstrong changes a bike tire.  He says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;See that little black thing?  Don't put that back on when you're done... ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it was just a joke, until someone commented on a thread of mine (on a bike forum) and said that the valve caps are super lame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I always leave my valve caps on because it keeps dirt off of the valve, and in turn out of my pumps.  Now, when I made that argument on the forum the other member commented saying&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I totally get the keeping dirt out. Coolness [of taking them off] far outweighs the logic of those little bastards. They have gone the way of wheel reflectors and dork discs.&#xA;  Any bling will be negated by presta valve caps installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please describe to me why there is so much hatred for these little things?  I get that they kind of resemble a guy's genitalia, but I feel like it's not really that big of a deal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m0NSs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2xQgP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T09:14:14.497" Title="Why so much hate for presta valve caps?" Tags="&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ClosedDate="2014-11-11T21:58:01.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25579" CreationDate="2014-11-10T11:19:59.087" Score="3" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a second hand road bike recently, I'm quite new to the field. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a wet'ish ride and ever since getting a little bit of mud on my bike there's a metallic chaffing sound whenever I apply any sort of force to the pedals. I think it's coming from the chain but that doesn't seem to lack lubricant, is there a way to test this?&#xA;When applying a lot of force to the pedals I'll here more of a cringing sound from somewhere on the bike, I can't tell where that's coming from either :\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14389" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T14:20:38.470" Title="Odd metallic chafing sound" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25578" CreationDate="2014-11-10T11:56:10.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This could be coming from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbadj.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt;, which will make noise when worn out and pedalling under load. One way to test this is to stand beside the bike, grab one crank in each hand and see if they can be rocked towards/away from the frame. There should be no play in this direction. This is described with pictures &lt;a href=&quot;http://velocast.cc/bottom-brackets-initial-assessment-and-common-problems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not the problem, then the following link has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rather comprehensive list of possible causes of bike noises&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T14:20:38.470" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T14:20:38.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25573" CreationDate="2014-11-10T12:36:07.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that I've noticed is that I tend to put my stronger (right) leg down.  This leaves the weaker left leg to give the initial stroke.  I'm (eventually) going to try to train myself to put my left leg down so that the stronger leg is making the stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T12:36:07.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25584" CreationDate="2014-11-10T18:09:06.107" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I train / fool my body to go anaerobic for intervals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I entered my first cyclocross race a couple weeks ago and have since been training on the course.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I found during the race and my training is I get gassed (can not even talk) on the first lap but after that I settle in and breathing is just heavy. &#xA;But my times lap to lap do not change. &#xA;Day to day I will get different lap times as I am trying out different set ups and the ground may be softer or harder but in a session in the 6 laps the times will be within 3 seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in a health study and take a treadmill every 6 months.  At a certain level the Dr will tell me this is your target training level and it is not very hard.  I have trained my body for that level and it is kind of stuck.  They did not tell me I could not train at a higher level - just train at least 50 minutes at that level of higher.  Dr told me he would rather I went with perceived exertion rather than heart rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I live in a large flat city where I don't have road routes that I can readily do interval type training.  We have some bike paths but with turns and other riders it is just not safe to ride full out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the gym in a kick boxing class of other interval type training I do gas out. &#xA;On the bike I seem to have some type of governor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets just start with the last lap. &#xA;How do I train / fool my body to go anaerobic on the last lap?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T19:27:38.267" Title="Training for sprints / short races" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25573" CreationDate="2014-11-10T19:03:54.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put my left foot down when I'm stopped (at traffic lights etc.) - this is mainly because I can put my foot on the kerb which is higher than the usual road surface.&#xA;I also live where they drive on the left-hand-side of the road (UK) - people in countries where they drive on the right may find the right foot to be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As people have said though, it's a case of whichever suits her best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first started using clipless, I found I often set off pedalling with one foot as I couldn't get my left foot clipped back in quick enough!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10916" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T19:03:54.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25629" CreationDate="2014-11-10T19:05:28.320" Score="5" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the story began some 4 years ago, when I bent my rear derailleur hanger while crashing, and my  chain got stuck between the cassette and the wheel scratching a few spokes. Everything was fine until this year when some of these spokes started to snap and I had to replace them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 32 DT Revolution spokes that are 1.8-1.5-1.8mm in diameter and replaced 4 of them from the drive side to plain 2.0mm spokes. I trued the wheel with no problems and after some 500km everything looks fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: for how long? Will the thicker spokes exert more side force and lead to over-tensing the other side? Or is there a risk in quicker fatigue of spokes on either side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T02:40:34.023" Title="Mixing various spoke widths in a single wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;tension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25581" CreationDate="2014-11-10T19:27:38.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anaerobic training is without oxygen, so you are using the lactic acid energy system. This means to be going above 80% of your Max Heart Rate MHR (or above 8 on perceived exertion table (can barely talk)). If you are solely in the anaerobic region, you can only go for 2 mins (ish) at that intensity. This means you will need to be in between regions, so you are using both major energy systems (with and without oxygen) to last 7-8 mins (of last lap).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are to use perceived exertion rather than heart rate you basically have to go hard out the whole time. You have said that you get gassed on the first lap i.e. perceived exertion is high, this could be due to an insufficient warm-up as Slovakok mentioned. This is where heart rate is helpful, it is accurate and tells you exactly what you are doing. Other wise, you could do one lap and get gassed then once you settle in start to go a bit harder to match the perceived exertion of the first lap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good way to get into the anaerobic zone is to do interval training, maybe once a week you could do three laps with a rest in between each lap, go as hard as you can for one lap, then rest until your heart rate feels normal again, or you think you can repeat the effort (might be 5-10 mins rest), then next lap go hard again, then rest a similar time... The next week try to rest for less time and continue decreasing rest until you can do 2 laps at that intensity or something like that. Other things to try are hill sprints, plyometrics, time trials, and just training in the anaerobic zone as much as possible, also training's work differently for different people, so you need to find something which works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you should set some goals for where you want to be in x weeks, and remember that  to be able to race at anaerobic level you must train there as well. So just go hard or go home on that final lap i guess (in both training and racing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14123" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T19:27:38.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2014-11-10T20:17:55.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, if you're a Clydesdale then you should probably have a triple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But overall, the advantages of a triple are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A triple can spin up an elevator shaft.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Gear changes are more natural and accurate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your legs will spin out before the top gear does.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In practice, a triple has a better chainline.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A triple is kinder to your knees.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages of a double are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A few less ounces and a few less dollars.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A narrower pedal stance, 7mm.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On paper, a double has a better chainline.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A double is a leetle more aero.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight cost of a triple comes down to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Inner chain ring + chain ring bolts, (Chorus, 767 - 670 = 97g)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Long cage rear derailleur vs short cage, (Record, 205-187 = 18g)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Triple front derailleur vs double, (Centaur, 107-92 = 15g)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wider bottom bracket, 115 vs 108, (Phil Wood, 221-208 = 13g)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, it's less than the 97+18+15+13 = 143 grams total. The 97g compares a 175 vs 172.5 because that's the data WeightWeanies had available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; good history of chainring sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikehugger.com/post/view/the-rise-of-the-compact-crank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikehugger.com/post/view/the-rise-of-the-compact-crank&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd add that Campagnolo reintroduced the triple into their 10S and 11S lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/05/bikes-and-tech/campagnolo-unveils-new-triple-cranksets-compact-gearing_219086&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/05/bikes-and-tech/campagnolo-unveils-new-triple-cranksets-compact-gearing_219086&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro riders use race and compact doubles, especially after Tyler Hamilon's heroic performance in the 2003 TDF. If you're sponsored and you want a 6800 gram bike, maybe you don't want a triple. But you only have to spin past someone standing up once to get the point of a triple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, the 11S exists mostly to hide some of the shortcomings of the double. For me 3x10S, 53/42/30 x 13-29 covers everything everywhere ever. I don't see the point of 3x11S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it should be pointed out that Campy etc now have RDs that can handle up to 32T. A compact's 34-32 is comparable to a triple's 30-29. Sheldon Brown points out that you can go lower than a 30 on a triple by swapping out the inner, down to about a 26. But this is pointless for most people and for myself, I'm happy with my triple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings/74.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings/74.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14279" LastEditorUserId="14279" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T23:45:26.500" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T23:45:26.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25573" CreationDate="2014-11-10T21:17:32.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the UK, so obviously drive on the left-hand side. &lt;em&gt;In general&lt;/em&gt;, I'll unclip with my left foot (I'm right-dominant), because then, when I pull over to the side of the road, I can put my left (outside) foot on the curb/grass/similar. That said, however, I do sometimes unclip with my right, for example if on a camber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further to my reasoning is this: my only two forms of transport when I'm at home from uni are my bicycle and my motorbike. When I stop on my motorbike, I should (nearly) always put my left foot down, as I have my right foot on the back brake. As such, it is natural for me to put my left foot down when I stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your daughter is ever thinking of getting a motorbike, then I would highly recommend getting very used to unclipping on the left, so as to do the same on a motorbike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10847" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T21:17:32.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25563" CreationDate="2014-11-11T01:33:18.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;14&quot; tires are actually quite common on department store bikes (Wal Mart, etc), but they are not found on &quot;bike shop&quot; brands. I think this is where some of the confusion on this issue has come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will almost certainly be fine with the slightly wider tire. For one thing, there is no true standardization on tire widths. I.e., every company uses its own gauge for what it means to be 1.95&quot;, etc (I once had a 2.55&quot; tire from brand X that was narrower than a 2.2&quot; tire from brand Y).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be on the safe side, make sure you have a little clearance wherever the tires pass the frame or fork; but I would bet money that the 2.125&quot; tires will fit, and on top of that you probably won't be able to tell any difference between the old and new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Apparently I don't have enough points or something to comment on the answer that links to the Schwalbe website. I was going to say, &quot;Those tires with fractional widths on the Schwalbe website will be entirely different from the tire with a decimal width mentioned by the O.P. If the O.P. gets a 14&quot; tire with a decimal width he will be fine. In the USA I doubt there is anything else to be had.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if Wal Mart does not sell replacement tires for its own bikes (regardless of the marked width), any bike shop can order the correct tires for you and offer you a guarantee that they will fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14071" LastEditorUserId="14071" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T02:00:46.723" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T02:00:46.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25573" CreationDate="2014-11-11T05:55:22.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could always teach her to track stand. It's a very useful skill, especially if you learn to do it with either foot forward. That sort of bike control will save her at some point when unclipping isn't practical or a quick enough solution for an awkward situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best time to learn such skills is when they are young. Have flat bed pedals to start with, just need a slightly rising gradient to practice on. It's fun to try and learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rarely unclip when stopped but will if I feel it's necessary. As an amputee cyclist, I can't unclip my prosthetic side easily, and I simply prefer to track stand and not bother unclipping at all. Makes starting off so much quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Else, learn to unclip both sides, she'll probably prefer one over the other. If nothing else it evens out cleat wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T05:55:22.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-11T06:24:27.000" Score="0" ViewCount="1260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lost the main bolt for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weeride.com/Kangaroo-Center-Mounted-Child-Bicycle-Carrier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Weerider Kangaroo,&lt;/a&gt; just wondering if someone has one and can tell me the size of the main bolt the one that attaches the seat to the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIgoL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14348" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T21:54:19.433" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T21:54:19.433" Title="Bolt size for the Weerider Kangaroo" Tags="&lt;child-seat&gt;&lt;kids&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25573" CreationDate="2014-11-11T08:10:20.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding clipless for a bit over 2 years. Right leg dominant, I unclip right, push off with my right, but I am currently contemplating a switch to the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once or twice, while riding with a pannier bag on the right side of my rack, I've knocked the bag off the rack. Been reasoning that if I were to unclip left, and leave my right foot clipped in all the time, that I would not risk knocking the pannier bag off the rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am presuming that in the UK, most cyclists carry a single pannier bag on the left so as to make rear lights more visible to drivers. For this reason, I'm thinking it's best to unclip left if one drives on the right side of the road, and vice versa. However, other than pannier bags, I cannot think of any advantage of one over the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Danger of making the switch that I'm contemplating is that I'll end up tipping over when I stop and forget to unclip either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T08:10:20.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25590" CreationDate="2014-11-11T08:28:30.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would urge you to check online, and order a replacement from WeeRide. Parts like this are hardened more than standard hardware grade steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was a reflector screw, then I'd say grab anything from the local hardware store. However, in this case there's a lot more at stake and you don't wanna cut corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with WeeRide, but I have gotten replacement parts from other companies sent to me, free of charge, when I inquired online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weeride.com/Kangaroo-Center-Mounted-Child-Bicycle-Carrier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.weeride.com/Kangaroo-Center-Mounted-Child-Bicycle-Carrier&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T08:28:30.660" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25576" CreationDate="2014-11-11T09:14:14.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I've heard the reason for not having the cap on is because without it changing the tube is somewhat faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7255" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T09:14:14.497" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25599" CreationDate="2014-11-11T13:39:48.753" Score="5" ViewCount="6581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am tuning up the mountain bike I purchased in 1994, which has the old yellow Rockshox Quadra 21R front suspension fork.  I have found a nice video on YouTube which shows how to service the suspension, and replace the elastomers, and also found an elastomer replacement kit for the fork at suspensionforkparts.net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is, when I unscrew the top plastic nut to remove the old elastomers, that I have found the old elastomers to be very brittle, several of them breaking into pieces upon removal, with brittle chunks still stuck within my fork.  I can get the top-most units removed, but I know there is still at least one or two layers of elastomer in the bottom of the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience removing old brittle pieces of elastomer without damaging the tubes of the fork? My intuition says I should get in there with a long flathead screwdriver and a hammer, but I do not want to damage parts within the bottom of the fork that I cannot see.  I also will need to access the very bottom of the fork with a long hex wrench when the elastomers are removed to fully disassemble and service the the bottom shafts.  So, I am a bit worried that my screwdriver approach will jam the old elastomer pieces in the bottom of the fork, preventing access to the hex screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance for any tips you can offer on safely removing the old brittle elastomers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14397" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T21:40:11.503" Title="Rockshox Quadra 21R -- Removal tips for old brittle elastomer" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25573" CreationDate="2014-11-11T15:33:36.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the answers agree that there is no one definitive leg that should be used, and that the rider should be able to clip and unclip starting with any leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggesting an informal test for the bike: Ask the new trainee to simply make several starts and stops with regular (non cleated) shoes, and notice which foot is preferred in the pedal and which on the ground each time. That is the natural pattern already in the muscular memory of the trainee, so, that should be the way when riding with cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general recommendations for learning to ride cleated are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice a lot getting in and out of the pedals while stationary, one foot at a time and in different positions of the pedal stroke. (I have found that it is easy for me to unclip my foot while in the highest part of the circle, but making an inward twist while in the lower part I do an outward motion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another answer depicts a strategy with a trainer, which I consider is great. But if you don't have access to a trainer, I recommend (and practice myself) the following drill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get yourself with the bike under a door frame or a in narrow alley, and while hands are on the handlebar and one foot is in the cleat, try to clip the other, unclip and go back to the floor. During this drill the bike should not move forward. The purpose is to develop a better sense of equilibrium and faster clipping and unclipping movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of doing it in a door frame or narrow alley is that in case of a fall you'd only get a smaller bump to the shoulder instead of a full drop to the ground (or at least have something to hold on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drill can be practiced halfway: try to clip completely before letting the shoulder touch the wall. Or the opposite, when fully clipped, hold yourself with a hand on the wall and quickly move your hand to the handlebar and then unclip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally: It is advisable that any rider trying to use cleated pedals is proficient with all the other skills necessary for the commute, i.e. knows the rules of the local roads and paths, knows the use of signs, signals and hands gestures, stopping points and is accustomed to general behavior of other users of the route (pedestrians, drivers and other cyclists) prior to attempt the use of cleats. Also, the rider should have practiced enough in a controlled environment and be confident with the pedal mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:14:55.380" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:14:55.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25595" CreationDate="2014-11-11T17:22:36.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've never dismantled a fork intending to reassemble it, but...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you use a J-end spoke or a knitting hook to pull the elastomer rather than pushing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to get plastic knitting hooks so the inner surfaces aren't scratched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastEditorUserId="7984" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T20:35:55.723" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T20:35:55.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25601" CreationDate="2014-11-11T21:45:36.803" Score="19" ViewCount="9440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just picked myself up a Specialized Allez Sport 2014 road bike from Evans Cycles (UK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I test rode the bike and I'm happy with the bike, but when I got home, and flipped the bike over to make a note of the serial number (for insurance) and I noticed that the derailleur cables cross over on the underside of the down tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgMXU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Down tube derailleur cable cross over&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The groupset on the bike is Shimano Sora, installed by the workshop at the Evans store, before I test rode it. Full specs can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/allez-sport-c2-2014-road-bike-ec052507&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/allez-sport-c2-2014-road-bike-ec052507&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The is the first road bike I've owned with a Shimano groupset &amp;lt; 105 and I wanted to know if this is the normal way to route derailleur cables with Sora shifters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have owned a 105 groupset equipped bike in the past with externally routed cables and the cables weren't crossed over on that. My current race bike has internally routed cables, so I can't even check against that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The potential issue I'm concerned about with the cables crossed over is that through rubbing against each other, they will wear more than they would normally. I'm also worried that the cables will be more likely to rub against the downtube, but I could just be being paranoid...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: It looks like I'm not the only person to ask this question: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/crossing-derailleur-cables-downtube-243700.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/crossing-derailleur-cables-downtube-243700.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem (from the above discussion, at least) that this is not uncommon for Specialised bikes to cross over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still doesn't sit right with me though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13507" LastEditorUserId="13507" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T22:00:08.963" LastActivityDate="2017-09-03T19:04:58.023" Title="Is it normal for my derailleur cables to cross over on the down tube?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;cable-routing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25600" CreationDate="2014-11-11T22:14:10.297" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one of those questions that can start arguments between bike mechanics--to cross or not to cross the derailer cables. Crossing appears to be becoming more common on new bikes, if the cables aren't internal, but it's also going to depend upon the bike. Smoother shifting is reported by some from crossed cables. I would talk to the mechanic at your LBS about it. There could be manufacturer recommendations or anecdotal experience driving the decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T22:14:10.297" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25545" CreationDate="2014-11-11T22:36:24.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commute is exactly the same:18km one way. I have an electric motor 350w that helps a lot, on normal days no shower needed in the morning. I tried all possible side roads until I found a nicer route, even if that is 5km more, I prefer the safer and quieter way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6107" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T22:36:24.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-11T23:11:49.887" Score="2" ViewCount="4698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the Pacific Northwest, Washington State, and I bike commute year round 5 miles each way. At my previous gig and rental, I had the fairly easy option of walking the 1.4 miles to work. I'm less sanguine about a 5 mile walk. Local bus service isn't ideal at my new gig and rental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Kona Dew with fenders and 32mm tires. Without fenders, I could run 38s easily, maybe something larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Been reading about studded tires on Peter White Cycles for a couple of years, and now I'm weighing the options. Some indications this is going to be a rough winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm torn between a couple of choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting &quot;mild&quot; studded tires on my Kona, like Nokian A10 32mm, and keep the fenders on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting a Craigslist or Pawn Shop MTB and putting aggressive studded tires on it as a snow bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting a Craigslist or Pawn Shop MTB and putting aggressive winter tires on it as a snow bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't get nearly the snow in Washington that they get in New Hampshire, but it does hit now and again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T21:51:27.470" Title="Anyone using studded bike tires on a commuter in milder climates?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25603" CreationDate="2014-11-11T23:16:29.137" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Studded tires don't help on snow any more than knobbies do - they're for ice. The canonical website on winter biking is probably &lt;a href=&quot;http://icebike.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IceBike&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on how far you want to go - a wide MTB tire at low pressure is nice in the snow. The aggressive studded tires are designed for riding in snow, not mostly cleared roads with possible bits of ice. If you're riding on plowed roads, a beater bike (since road salt does wonders for ruining your drivetrain) with some mild studded tires designed for commuters (e.g. Schwalbe Marathon Winter) are a good way to go (though many people get by without studs for winter as well - they're additional safety when you hit ice; I've done several mid-west winters without studded tires). If you're not going on plowed roads, get something aggressive (but note that if the roads are clear, you'll wear down the studs excessively and have excess resistance). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for keeping the fenders on, you might not want to do that since they help pack and accumulate snow. I like to use a downtube board and a clip on tail fender (SKS X-board and X-tra dry) since they don't make snow accumulate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T01:03:50.257" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T01:03:50.257" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-11T23:59:59.383" Score="0" ViewCount="3183" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use my CycleOps Mag Trainer without the skewer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The skewer that came with my trainer does not fit properly. Does anyone know if I can use it with a Shimano Nexus 3/8&quot; cap nut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14405" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T01:30:02.087" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T10:36:36.750" Title="CycleOps Mag Trainer skewer doesn't fit" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25545" CreationDate="2014-11-12T02:09:02.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to commute 14 kilometers one way, which makes up 28 both ways to work every day. Needed to get used at first but it did not take much time. A bicycle moves 22 km/h in average in a tight traffic with lights, +-3 km/h if you are lucky or not, which makes some 40 minutes for the whole trip - not a big deal, really. I did not ride in rain and when it is much colder than possible for comfort.&#xA;Use lights at night, take care of traffic and you will be fine. I don't think there's any extra preparation needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T02:09:02.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-12T04:03:08.147" Score="2" ViewCount="21306" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike is a little more then a year old (although I do put a lot of miles on it, about 12 miles a day), this problem seems to have started about a week ago. It's a 7 speed Avilon Next (a cheap brand but works well enough).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's happening is while I am riding, if I stop pedalling to cruise or back pedal (I know, why back pedal? Perhaps I'm near the curb or what ever, that's besides the point! It shouldn't happen at all!) the chain gets way too much slack, and then falls off my chainring. I'm not sure if it's something with my derailleur, or perhaps cassette (possibly my free hub?). But I think I've narrowed it down to one of those two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help or advice will be great, thanks! Sullivan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14408" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-11-16T18:40:55.450" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T09:18:39.500" Title="Why does my chain slip off the chainring when cruising or back pedalling?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14775" CreationDate="2014-11-12T06:41:09.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Headshok is super-stiff, light and solid. There is virtually zero stiction and the damping is butter-smooth. I have a vintage, 2001 Bad Boy Ultra with Headshok and only recently re-built it (2013) – that's 13 &lt;em&gt;years&lt;/em&gt; of reliable operation! The guy who serviced it said I'll easily get another 15-18 years' use, as the updated bearings and seals are even better then original OEM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love the true, solid lockout knob. One quarter turn and the fork is shut off. I only get 2.75&quot; of travel, but it's plenty for an urban application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14409" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T08:18:37.763" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T08:18:37.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25605" CreationDate="2014-11-12T08:25:35.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the clamp needs to do is hold the bike securely. If it holds securely and doesn't wobble it will be fine. I use an Elite trainer and have never used the skewer that came with it as I haven't had a problem with the one I have on my trainer wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T08:25:35.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25600" CreationDate="2014-11-12T10:18:16.670" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this frequently and routed my cables this way. By routing the shifter cable from the right side of the handlebar around the stem to the cable boss on the left side of the frame (and visa versa) I create a more gentle bend in the in the cable housing. A gentler bend creates less internal friction on the cable. Another benefit is less stress on the cable ends where they insert at the shifter body and frame boss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14411" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T10:18:16.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25614" CreationDate="2014-11-12T13:24:24.590" Score="8" ViewCount="16613" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking videos like Red Bull Rampage or Mega Avalanche make me wonder about the speeds attained by those pro bikers. How fast they go in straight line sections?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T08:56:22.150" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T02:31:33.913" Title="What are typical max speeds for pro downhill races?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25612" CreationDate="2014-11-12T13:56:00.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These days we have Strava for this. Check for example (Strava account required to see details of individual rides):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/segments/mont-ventoux-descent-to-malauc%C3%A8ne-1410555&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mont ventoux descent.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/segments/1294034&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Galibier descent&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/segments/4391613&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alpe d'Huez descent&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find some segments there, and quite often you also get tracks from pro cyclists. From looking at just a few KOMS I see that top speeds at about 110-120 km/h are not uncommon. You can find interviews with pro riders where they boast about speeds up to about 140-150 km/h. Above that seems highly unlikely because you're approaching &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terminal_velocity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;terminal velocity&lt;/a&gt; and at those speed pedalling isn't going to help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; Updated to show actual segments (no account needed), but to see maximum speeds, you do need an account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T22:20:08.817" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T22:20:08.817" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25612" CreationDate="2014-11-12T14:23:33.500" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The differences are quite significant from race to race - each track is different. Also events such as Rampage are not too much about speed. The top speed may vary between 55-65km/h on tracks such as Mount Sainte Anne up to around 80km/h in Pietermaritzburg which is known for high speeds achieved. Of course all assuming good weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also these speeds are kept only for a few seconds (in the best case), the average speeds come around 30km/h mark course and weather dependent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T14:23:33.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25557" CreationDate="2014-11-12T15:40:05.487" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago the weight weenie road racers used tae leave out a bearing in each hub, saving mebbe 100/150gms on bike weight. They never had problems! pack in more grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say, they're cheap hubs and more likely ye'll break them before they wear anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14412" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T15:40:05.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25608" CreationDate="2014-11-12T16:36:49.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that some combination of the chainring, hub, freewheel, is out of tolerance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these parts is every perfectly radially symmetrical (ie. they spin in a perfect circle). Manufacturers have acceptable tolerances for being asymmetrical, and the better the quality the tighter the tolerances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, say, your chainring was out of tolerance such that it is radially shorter on one side, when that side touches the chain the chain will have more slack. Now, it might just be the case that both your chainring AND freewheel are out of tolerance, and every X rotations the short radii of both line up, introducing a significant amount of slack to your chain. In this case, the chain is more likely to fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth having a mechanic look at it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14413" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T16:36:49.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25622" CreationDate="2014-11-12T17:59:25.157" Score="0" ViewCount="5381" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, back 15 years ago, I think wearing helmet is kinda hype. &#xA;I started wearing cycling helmet around 10 years ago seeing how dangerous cycling on the road is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just recently I got in an accident which I'm not sure what I can do better to avoid one (the accident) but to have more protection on myself.&#xA;The accident happened just when a young motorist decided to pulled out without any signal, checking blind spot and possibly mirror (I use Cateye EL-130, a warning sign 300 m away from me can still reflect my flaslight-strobing well back; a full Hi Vis jacket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I was swerving, I lost balance and get thrown off the bike, chin and face planted on asphalt. 4 stitches on the chin, internal bleeding around the front teeth (have to take fluid for 3 weeks) and scar on face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enough with the accident background, my question is &#xA;1) Would it worth buying a full helmet (BMX not motorcycle style) just to provide some protection, before my front teeth ever decide to part from me and my abuse. &#xA;2) What is your thought being a cyclist, seeing another wearing full helmet on the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side question:&#xA;a) Regarding the accident, was there anything else I can do, apart from riding on the very right edge of the lane (UK driving on left) and/or driving unacceptably slowly (less than 10 mph or 16 kmph) to keep control of the bicycle (and encourage motorist behind to overtake).&#xA;b) I am still hesitant to claim personal injury against the driver. Is there any advice? Looking for a solicitor I believe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Sorry I forgot to tell that I'm living in Scotland so temperature is not really a problem.. but I have never seen people riding full helmet on the street, lol. I think in here 50% people choosing not to have helmet, even worse...&#xA;EDIT 2: I actually mean this kind of helmet just to prevent some simple face-plant injury &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sPoyS.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Bike helmet full&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2014-11-16T01:37:59.020" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T01:37:59.020" Title="Full helmet (BMX) for Commuting, what is the current 2014 opinion?" Tags="&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25608" CreationDate="2014-11-12T19:25:28.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like classic symptoms of a &lt;strong&gt;dirty drivetrain&lt;/strong&gt;. If your chain is getting slack on top when you stop pedalling or backpedal, then the problem is in your freehub (or freewheel, whichever you have), &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;a dirty freehub will cause all the problems you've listed,&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; even on a brand new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When dirt and grit mixed with excess chain oil get gummed up in the bearings of your freehub, it looses a lot of it's freedom to move. The easiest way to confirm this is to take your wheel off, and just try to give the cassette a flick with your fingers, if it doesn't spin freely, then it is certainly gummed up and the easiest thing to do is get the freehub replaced (freehubs aren't easy to clean unless you have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://morningstartools.com/Pages/FreehubBuddy.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;freehub buddy&lt;/a&gt;). You can clean a freehub without a freehub buddy, but you'll have to take it appart to do a good job of it, and there are lots of tiny bearings (~42) in a freehub that are easy to loose, so if you're not mechanically inclined, I wouldn't recommend trying it. If you want to try, you'll need a freehub tool to get the freehub off the hub, and another to open the freehub (their different depending on brand of freehub), I also recommend getting a pair of snap-ring pliers and a magnet tray (pliers for snap-rings obviously, and magnet try to prevent dozens of tiny ball-bearings from going everywhere). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to Prevent Sticky Freehubs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proper oiling and regularly cleaning your drivetrain is the best way to avoid this problem. &lt;em&gt;Over-oiling&lt;/em&gt; is the biggest culprit for sticky freehubs, don't just keep applying more oil to your chain, always wipe off the excess, and clean you chain regularly to remove dirt and grime, simply oiling isn't enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding your bike as often as you do, you should probably be getting your drivetrain replaced at least once a year (Chain and Cassette) as wear and tear will also give you problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T19:25:28.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10396" CreationDate="2014-11-12T20:02:48.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace all of your allen bolts with &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebolts.com/collections/security-allen-bolts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;security allen bolts.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gw8Rp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's really nothing you can do to stop a determined criminal, only slow him down, but security bolts will add a level of confusion which will quickly deter the average opportunistic thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T20:02:48.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25603" CreationDate="2014-11-12T21:41:21.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live fairly close to you (just north of the boarder ), and I own studded &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_winter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Marathon Winter HS 396&quot;&gt;Schwalbe winter marathons&lt;/a&gt; (700x40c). I only use them maybe  one to two weeks out of the year.  While a bit of a luxury they are incredibly useful under the appropriate conditions (e.g., compacted snow and ice).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Where I found they worked well&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I &lt;em&gt;disagree with Batman&lt;/em&gt; about not studded snow tires not being useful in snow.  In the Pacific North West (PNW; or there about) the climate can be mild.  When we do get snow, and the snow stays, many paths and trails can become compacted from foot traffic.  The top layer can melt in the day and freeze at night.  This can put a nasty layer of ice on the top of the snow.  &lt;strong&gt;Here studded tires excel.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another area I have found them useful is when we get a dump of snow, which melts and becomes slushy, followed by a precipitous drop in temperature which causes the ponds of slush to turn to ponds of ice.  &lt;strong&gt;Here again studded tires excel.&lt;/strong&gt;  In 2012 when we got a big chill after slushy snow, the spikes were a godsend for about a couple weeks as I was able to ride across parking lot completely covered in ice without crashing. I could not turn sharply or lean into a turn, but if I was careful I could ride the ice lakes!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Now for the caveat&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you are in the PNW these conditions are rare.   Riding studded tires outside of these conditions is not advisable as the tires do not grip bare pavement as well as non-studded tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said these tires are a luxury item in our climate.  If you are dedicated to never miss a day commuting then they could be useful, or you could simply drive or take the bus on those rare occasions they are needed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect my tires will die of old age before I actually wear them out.  This is probably especially true now as my riding now occurs in an even milder microclimate (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saanich_Peninsula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Saanich Peninsula&lt;/a&gt;). I may never see the required conditions except on an even &lt;em&gt;rarer&lt;/em&gt; occasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hmm... Lightly used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_winter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Marathon Winter HS 396&quot;&gt;Schwalbe winter marathons&lt;/a&gt; for sale!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T21:51:27.470" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T21:51:27.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25617" CreationDate="2014-11-12T22:06:02.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I not a Dr nor a medical professional - do not take this as medical advice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary purpose of a partial helmet is to protect the brain.  With blunt force trauma to the skull the brain will swell and you can lose brain function or even die.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for losing your teeth that is bad and you don't want it to happen but it is not likely something you are going to die from.  If you did die from a fractured jaw it would most likely be from so much blood in the esophagus that you could not breath.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said if you want to protect your face then by all means wear a full face helmet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a motor cycle I wore full face.  I took one bad fall and full face saved my face and I never road again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T22:28:42.670" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T22:28:42.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25617" CreationDate="2014-11-12T23:42:09.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Protection level is a personal preference matter.  You could just as well wear downhill style full body armor to commute and if you are willing to sacrifice the mobility and comfort for that extra level of protection, I'd say more power to you.  So my answer is you should wear whatever makes you feel more comfortable mentally.  The reality is it's all shades of grey.  If a one ton pickup hits you going 55 mph, there really isn't much you could be wearing that is going to do you any good.  I've been hit twice now commuting, but have stopped wearing any sort of helmet in the winter due to temperature control issues.  I value ease of temperature adjustment more than any feeling of safety I get from a helmet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So much of cycling is personal preference that I have seen several folks in town wearing full face helmets on what is seemingly a commute, and it doesn't bother me any more or less than the brand of bicycle they are riding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  I do not recommend wearing any less than the level of protection required by law in your area.  My jurisdiction has no such requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T00:03:48.603" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T00:03:48.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2933" CreationDate="2014-11-13T00:17:09.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any shoes bought for winter (below freezing) cycling should be several sizes larger than a rider's normal shoe size.  Stuffing more layers inside a shoe/boot that is a close fit actually makes keeping your feet warm harder since it will tend to restrict circulation.  This is a very common mistake.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally wear a size 44, but my winter sets of shoes/boots are 45 and 50.  The extra room translates to extra space for insulation (socks).  If possible, you should buy winter shoes/boots in a wide size as well, so you are not just getting more room in the toe box, but throughout the shoe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend a vapor barrier sock or other method (plastic bag) to keep your insulation dry and effective.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have all that going on and still need more warmth, some sort or overshoe is a next step.  I have found that the over booties designed for cross country skis usually work fairly well with cycling shoes and and generally relatively cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T00:17:09.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20404" CreationDate="2014-11-13T00:33:20.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For maximum effectiveness, a vapor barrier should be worn as close to the skin as possible.  A vapor barrier works to keep your warm two main ways.  The first is that is stops your sweat from carrying heat away from your body (stops evaporative cooling).  The second is that because your sweat doesn't move away from you, your insulation stays dry and is more effective.  Many people dislike the slick, wet clammy feel of a vapor barrier against their skin, which is why many people recommend putting it on after a liner style garment, however, this technically isn't the most effective method of using one.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rbhdesigns.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RBH Designs&lt;/a&gt;, which manufactures a variety of vapor barrier clothing bonds a cloth layer to the inside of their barriers to reduce that &quot;sandwich bag&quot; feel. Their site has some good data on vapor barrier reasoning and use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T00:33:20.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20404" CreationDate="2014-11-13T01:07:18.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been experimenting with the whole cold/sweat/wool/plastic bag dilemma and I think that I may have found another way to go about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I put one of those toe warmers that you stick to the toe part of your insole. I put on a pair of medium weight wool socks. My feet sweat like crazy like always but they were pretty warm, even when I'd stop. I would recommend wearing a thick wool sock however: one of my feet started to get too hot because of the sweat combining with the insert. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T01:07:18.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-13T02:36:40.240" Score="4" ViewCount="9981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Breezer Uptown 8 with a European-style ring lock on the rear wheel. I am thinking of removing it. Does anyone have experience doing this? Is it as easy as unscrewing a bolt? It looks like maybe it is bolted on with the fender mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am worried that this may be very difficult because if it was not, the lock would not be very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8084" LastEditorUserId="23680" LastEditDate="2017-09-21T14:44:38.487" LastActivityDate="2017-09-21T14:44:38.487" Title="How hard is it to remove a European-style rear-wheel ring lock?" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;&lt;modification&gt;&lt;wheel-lock&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25583" CreationDate="2014-11-13T02:40:34.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the age of the wheel, you're going to continue to snap older spokes from time to time. Don't worry about the gauge of the replacement spoke. Assuming it's within the range of appropriate tension, as long as it pulls true there's not much to be concerned about. I have multiple wheels with some of the thinnest gauge spokes available (Sapim CX Rays) with straight gauge replacement spokes. No issues to report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T02:40:34.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25654" CreationDate="2014-11-13T03:42:41.080" Score="1" ViewCount="2202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a Cateye Single Shot for 5 years until it died. Now I use a Cateye Single Shot Plus that I picked up on Ebay for $50. It's noticeably brighter than the Single Shot, but with my new commute I'm finding I need something much brighter. Dead animals, collision debris, Mother Nature's debris, a faster road, and long stretches that aren't illuminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've searching in vain to find any sort of lumen estimation of the Cateye Single Shot Plus, and I've read a number of critiques of the various candlepower to lumen conversions being flawed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have my eye on the Light and Motion Urban series--specifically the 800 Fast Charge. 800 lumens for $180 seems a good lumen/dollar ratio, and $180 is about my spending comfort limit. Put the Urban on my handlebar and move the Single Shot Plus to my helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If money were no object, I'd get a pair of 2000 lumen L&amp;amp;M Secas--one for my handlebar and one for my helmet. However, I don't think I could successfully pitch $1,000 worth of bike lights to the wife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this seem like overkill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T22:55:55.637" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T22:56:15.060" Title="How much light is enough for year round commuting?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25630" CreationDate="2014-11-13T04:18:47.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going fast on unlit roads you definitely want a decent light. Personally I find the combination of my 100 lumen dyno headlight plus another 100 lumens on the handlebars to be enough, but I ride relatively slowly and on a manoeuvrable bike. On a faster bike with handling and brakes designed for speed you want more. Perhaps not 2000 lumens - that's off road singletrack territory. And price. If you get a better quality 200-300 lumen light that actually puts out 200 lumens you'll be much better off than with an off-brand &quot;500 lumens&quot; that is actually 200...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One consideration is how people coming towards you. While it's annoying to hit a small, dark-coloured lump and end up on the road, it's worse to blind an oncoming motorist and end up as a hood ornament. It's not as bad on bike paths, you're more likely just to get beaten up if you blind someone. Paying a little attention to how much light, and where you're pointing it, is important. With a high powered helmet light it's really important not to look at people's faces... when normally you should be looking there. My preference is to have a relatively low-powered helmet light for that reason - I can still look at faces, and people will see me but not be blinded unless they're already very close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nathan's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikelightdatabase.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Light Database&lt;/a&gt; is a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T04:32:19.983" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T04:32:19.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25630" CreationDate="2014-11-13T04:52:10.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;MTBR.com does a big review of lights every year; &lt;a href=&quot;http://reviews.mtbr.com/category/lights-shootout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is the one for 2015. They have a ton of useful information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T04:52:10.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2479" CreationDate="2014-11-13T05:10:41.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whole training game is to shock the body just enough to have it adapt then rest one to 3 days to recover. &#xA;My gym work starts October and more or less ends April. (I ride all year but do not hammer during these months-- just one 5-8 km sprint every ride)  Weight lifting is to live thru a fall and repair the damage of strains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-First month - 21 lifts of one st, 15 reps - just to get form down, tap into muscle memory&#xA;- Second and third month - 10 to 12 lifts that tax multiple joints- hip machine 45 degree leg press chair, hamstrip machine, lat pull downs, free weight shoulder shrugs, weighted incline sit ups, back extensions&#xA;-last months - core from hips calisthenics , knees to chest heavy 4 sets, 4-5 reps such as leg lifts, weighted incline sit ups, lat pull downs various rows, hip machine.  I do not exercise the arms per sec as they sort of get strong just by extension of my knees to chest stuff.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 69.  My riding ability profile is better at sprinting and hills but average  on endurance rides over 2 hours.  I can accept less performance on longer rides cause the fun is speed and hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14420" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T05:10:41.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-13T05:29:25.420" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I was riding a XC mountain bike down a semi-steep mountain with some big bumps and tight turns. I had me seat all the way down, was standing with knees bent, and correct stance like it should be. It worked for a little bit until I came to a turn and I felt I was leaning way too far back so I pulled myself forward to fix my stance but for some reason I went flying somewhat sideways off the bike. I was also braking a little throughout the ride but I'm pretty sure I use them correctly. What was I doing wrong? How can I prevent this. This has happened before and it's really hard to recover from while riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14077" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T08:57:07.250" Title="What should downhill technical stance look like?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-11-13T14:12:02.530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25617" CreationDate="2014-11-13T08:19:26.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will tackle just the question what can be done to prevent such accidents in the future. I think that in some cases loud horn can help the prevent accidents where motorist is not aware of the cyclist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was recently in an accident where I was on the main road and motrosit was approaching on side road. He was driving in faster spectrum but many other motorist approach main road in that manner and stop. This one did not, since he did not see me, and hit me in the rear wheel. I was much more lucky than you since I got only few bruises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I decided and ordered loud horn for my bike which I intend to use on any suspucious looking motorist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T08:19:26.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2933" CreationDate="2014-11-13T08:58:46.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get thick Neoprene cycling shoe covers. I got these last winter after two years of cold feet (pun not intended) and they are wonderfull!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T08:58:46.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25628" CreationDate="2014-11-13T10:44:49.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's like the one I've used, when the lock is unlocked you only need to remove 2 bolts. They're covered when the lock goes through the wheel (actually i think only 1 of them is but I'm not near the bike now). I don't think the mudguard is affected by taking the lock off but of course yours may be different and you may need to improvise something. In the end you'll just have to try it and see but you could add some pictures if you're worried. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T10:44:49.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-13T11:49:36.897" Score="1" ViewCount="3233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the market for Dahon folding bike. I have narrowed down on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dahon.com/mainnav/foldingbikes/single-view/bike/suv_d6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dahon SUV D6&lt;/a&gt; since it suits my budget. I would be carrying it around in trains on weekends to tourist towns in South India and roam around in it. Indian roads are notorious for their poor riding conditions. My concern is will the D6 (that is designed primarily for urban commuting) be able to handle a bump or two and be a reliable machine that I need it be during my vagrant outbursts. Since I haven't seen a Dahon first-hand yet and since I'll mostly be placing the order for it online, I'm a bit anxious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dahon.com/uploads/tx_dahonproducts/IMG_10256.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dahon http://dahon.com/uploads/tx_dahonproducts/IMG_10256.png&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dahon.com/uploads/tx_dahonproducts/IMG_10204.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dahon D6 http://dahon.com/uploads/tx_dahonproducts/IMG_10204.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14422" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T02:15:01.003" Title="How suitable is a Dahon folding bike for Indian road conditions?" Tags="&lt;reliability&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-13T14:50:41.027" Score="3" ViewCount="704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of upgrading to sram cx-1 and discs for next season but would like to keep the current crank set based power meter I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone think of a reason why I could not use the current Shimano crank set I have with an 11 speed compatible single retaining chain ring designed for said purpose (like: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopetech.com/product/retainer-ring-110-pcd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hopetech.com/product/retainer-ring-110-pcd/&lt;/a&gt;) and would have to go with the sram cx1 crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T15:02:03.207" Title="sram cx1 without the sram cx1 crankset?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25595" CreationDate="2014-11-13T14:54:28.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your tip, Emyr.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up using my screwdriver and hammer method to work around all of the brittle elastomer sections.  However, at the bottom of the last section of elastomer was a round piece of plastic with a hole in it.  I did just what you suggested to remove it -- I bent the end of an old spoke into a &quot;J&quot; shape, and pulled it out of the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My new elastomers are coming in this weekend, and I look forward to repairing my front suspension. Thank you for the help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo of the old elastomers from the Rockshox Quadra 21R fork, now 20 years old!  They are laid on the table with the botom of the fork toward the top. The small plastic ring you see is what I removed with the &quot;J&quot; shaped spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PguXn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old elastomers&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14397" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T14:54:28.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25640" CreationDate="2014-11-13T15:02:03.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strangely enough, everything seems to say that 11 speed &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/09/bikes-and-tech/drivetrain-compatibility-hidden-in-plain-sight_303199&quot;&gt;plays nicely together&lt;/a&gt; - chain widths, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankset area (since you're running a 1x11) is effectively independent of the stuff going on in the rear (where the CX-1 groupset has a rear derailleur, shifter, cassette, etc.). So, you shouldn't have to change to a SRAM CX-1 crankset (unless you wanted to make everything match for some reason). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T15:02:03.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4791" CreationDate="2014-11-13T16:37:40.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put the quick release on your stronger arm side based on where you are stood/sat when you put it up/take it off. Then you are more likely to have an easy on/off. I change over my car tires due to more wear on one side than the other but I don't get this as much on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8987" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T16:37:40.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25639" CreationDate="2014-11-13T16:55:03.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I think this bike would be a poor choice for a number of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, the small wheel size will accentuate the bad road&#xA;conditions. Larger wheels will seem to smooth out the bumps a bit&#xA;better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As has already been commented, folding bikes in general do not handle particularly well, which is not what you want on bumpy streets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although this bike folds, that is the extent of its portability.&#xA;The Dahon website says it weighs 31.7 pounds, so it's going to be&#xA;difficult to heft even though it may fit a bit better on a train&#xA;than a non-folding bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My experience with Dahon is that you pay quite a bit for the&#xA;foldability. It looks like this bike costs $300. When you consider that $300 is the starting point for &quot;bike-shop brand&quot; bicycles, a $300 folding bike is, frankly, using probably the lowest quality components possible. Not ideal for any riding environment and made even worse by rough roadways. I suspect this bike will cause you quite a few maintenance headaches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know anything about trains in India, but if it is possible to bring a non-folding bike onto a train there, I think you will be much better off overall. You will get more bike for the money, probably a lighter bike, and definitely larger wheels. My advice would be to shop around for something of the non-folding variety if your budget is $300. I would look at a mountain bike if the roads are extremely bad, but for more weight savings a hybrid would be an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the bike shop situation in India, but the folks at a bike shop will probably be able to guide you to something that is appropriate for your local riding conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14071" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T16:55:03.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25648" CreationDate="2014-11-13T17:49:17.850" Score="1" ViewCount="1094" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to mountain biking, and am considering purchasing a new, less expensive bike to help me learn to ride wooden obstacles (skinnies, curved bridges, etc.) without fear of damaging my &quot;good&quot; mountain bike in a hard fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also wanted to pick up a snow bike (or &quot;fat bike&quot;), but can't really justify the cost considering my area gets, at most, 3 or so snowstorms per year. But looking at these two issues together makes me wonder: would the wider, lower-pressure tires on a snow bike make it easier to learn correct technique &amp;amp; feel for riding on slick, wooden obstacles? What would be the benefits/drawbacks of very wide vs. standard-width MTB tires in this scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T15:59:59.060" Title="Would &quot;fat&quot; tires help me learn skinnies/log rides?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;&lt;fatbike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2014-11-13T20:10:41.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason to avoid a triple is ego.  If you have any, you don't want one.  If you are less egocentric, and ride in a place where low gears matter, then by all means consider it.  The weight doesn't mean much (without the ego related stuff), and there are darned few people strong enough to ride up serious hills who don't also have egos to match that ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 180lbs and ride up 3000' grades with around 200w (powertap) on a normal day.  I have a triple on the bikes I take up those hills and I'm not afraid to use it with my 34t cluster.  I'd have to be able to do 240w for an hour to give the low gears up, and at my age, that improvement isn't going to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7509" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T20:10:41.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25645" CreationDate="2014-11-13T20:12:42.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like all good answers: yes and no. Having ridden several &quot;fatties,&quot; I can say that the wider contact patch and added grip certainly makes for a more confident feeling, but the lower air pressure and subsequent squishy-ness can sometimes make steering a touch...different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the question of how skinny are the skinnies you want to ride? A fat tire might be too fat!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say, learn on whatever bike you want to ride them on more often as you'll build more comfort. Start small with &quot;wide&quot; skinnies that are low to the ground so that the consequences are smaller. But if you want a fatty to ride in the winter, then all means ride with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T20:12:42.747" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25645" CreationDate="2014-11-13T20:14:47.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, &lt;strong&gt;no they would not.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/fmKAZ5qlqvE?t=55s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Have you ever watched anyone ride a fatbike?&lt;/a&gt; Their front tire wobbles all over the place, the extra weight from the heavy tires makes fine-adjustments much more difficult, putting extra fatigue on your body. That being said, training with a bike that's not suited for skinnys will make riding them easier when you hop on a bike that &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; suited for skinnys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/fmKAZ5qlqvE?start=63&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires don't help you balance on a bike as much as &lt;strong&gt;frame geometry&lt;/strong&gt; does, particularly head-tube angle. I've found that down hill bikes with a more aggressive head-tube angle are actually more difficult to balance on skinnys. You don't need a fancy bike to ride skinnys unless you're doing big drops, if you're worried about wrecking your bike while learning, then get a cheap yardsale bike that you can trash and practice with. Also, wide low-pressure tires make it easier to slip off the sides of the especially narrow skinnys, I've got scars on my face to prove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was a kid we would practice our balance in our backyards, riding on 2x4's just laying on the ground or across a couple logs, or by trying to stay on the painted lines on the roads, or riding on the curb of the sidewalk. Slow races are great for balance too. We'd race like 10 feet, and the &lt;em&gt;last&lt;/em&gt; one across the line won. Basically, whoever was the best at brake stands had the advantage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2014-11-14T15:59:59.060" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T15:59:59.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25645" CreationDate="2014-11-13T20:53:28.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like fixed as the front end is lighter and it does not move around.  Carbon if you are willing to spend the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single speed means no derailleur to break.  And smaller chain ring and bash guard gives you more clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you want a real wide tire.  I would think like a 2.1 - preferably tubeless.  If you start riding 2&quot; pipe you may even drop down to like a 40mm and for that you buy a CX tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't practice skinnies but I do know that a low pressure is better for crawling over wet roots and rocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for winter bike it does not snow where I live now but I think this would make a good snow bike.  And if they salt you don't have expensive components getting eaten up.  The bike below only takes a 2.1 in the rear but you can find them up to a 2.4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for buy cheap new my advice is no.  Cheap new you are going to get wheels that flex and bend on the first crash.  You get racers that upgrade every few years and have worn out the front fork - replace it with a rigid.  You need a bike that is going to be solid under you.  Nice wheels alone are $400.   I would budget $800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the bike I bought for learning technique.  More to learn to bunny hop than ride skinniness.  This was $850 used but that fork is worth $300.  Not a cheap bike but it is a bike that would be hard to break.  And I ended up riding that bike for a lot more than learning technique - it is fun to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jNJew.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T21:23:51.750" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T21:23:51.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25630" CreationDate="2014-11-13T21:49:16.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a 200 lumen headlamp that claims 175 hours out of 4 AAs and cost roughly $100.  In the wide mode (outside spread LEDs) it produces more than enough light to be seen with and I can see with it fairly well.  When I need more light, I can cut over to the big beam and see as much as I need to.  I bought it mainly for racing, but the battery life was so good I use it for commuting as well.  For dedicated commuting I have always looked at rechargeable units.  Right now I'd say ~400 lumens should cost you $100 or less.  Most of my stuff gets run in medium or low setting producing half the lumens, but allowing me to get through a whole week of commuting before I need to recharge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T21:49:16.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25630" CreationDate="2014-11-13T22:32:23.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Niterider Lumina 700 for about $100 on Amazon. It's plenty bright for commuting (most of the time I don't even use the high setting) on unlit roads, it throws a pretty wide beam, and the light is very white.  It's rechargeable through USB which is awesome, so I charge it up at work when I see the indication that it's getting low.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13925" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T22:32:23.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25630" CreationDate="2014-11-13T22:56:15.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you will find 800 lumen to be plenty, even for avoiding debris on unlit roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context, I commute in the dark (and often in the rain) along unlit back roads and along our &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gallopinggoosetrail.com/pdf/lochside_trail_guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;regional trail system&lt;/a&gt; which is unlit double track gravel with forest coverage.  I often need to avoid fallen branches, rabbits and the odd deer that pops out of the trees at inopportune times. I have found that my 4 year old &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/niterider-700-pro-led-review-2010.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nite Rider Pro 700&lt;/a&gt;, which is rated at 700 lumen has plenty of light to ride at about 30-35 km/hr in the darkness even when it is raining. Anything less and I would have to ride slower in the forest tracks. Anything more would be overkill unless your night vision is horrible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Caveats - Raw output isn't everything - Mirrors are also important.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raw output is only half the story.  Where you put the light is also very important. For riding on the road a light with a properly shaped mirror with half the output can let you ride faster than a light with an inappropriate mirror.  Most battery powered LED lights (e.g., Nite Rider, Light in Motion, etc) have symmetrical beams that shine light up, down, left and right.  It is great in the forest, but bad for other road users as it can blind oncoming traffic and could represent wasted light depending on your needs. I would contend these lights are inappropriate for most road riding and require higher outputs due to the wasteful light spread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context I also have a LED dynamo light that is probably around 200 lumen which I use as my primary light. The mirrors produce a sharp cut-off at the horizon similar to a car's low beams.  This puts all of the light generated on the road in front of me where it is needed.  It actually reaches farther down the road than the Nite Rider (symmetric beam) at a full 700 lumen.  As an added bonus it also does not blind oncoming traffic such as other cyclists on these unlit close proximity tracks. Unfortunately, very few battery powered lights have this beam pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the shaped light pattern of dynamo light excels, it also fails.  In the forest tracks, where I would like to see off the track and into the forest so I can pick up any deer that may be looking to bolt across the path on my approach (this has happened a number of times) a shaped beam is insufficient.  Here the Nite Rider trail light excels. At night, in the rain, I find 700 lumen with this beam pattern to be more than enough at full pace.  But because of symmetric beam I need to turn it off (or down low)  when encountering other cyclists, runners, pedestrians.  Here I rely on the dynamo light so as to not blind oncoming traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like the 2000 lumen L&amp;amp;M Secas (symmetrical beam I assume) at full tilt will be outrageously bright and could cause many oncoming road users to hate you or even cause many to crashes or bodily injury  (as mentioned by Moz)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are only riding on unlit roads with a symmetrical beam light (again most battery powered lights) something with what is now a moderate output (i.e., 300-800 lumen) should be sufficient, even at a faster pace (e.g., 30+ km/hr). 2000 lumen will really be overkill  and could be inconsiderate to other road users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are only riding on the road you may also want to consider a battery powered light with a shaped beam (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&amp;amp;m.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bushch &amp;amp; Muller&lt;/a&gt;.  These are cheaper than what you were considering ($60-120, instead of $180-1000) and you can get the same road performance from about half the output. In some ways this light is superior to symmetrical beams lights for road riding as the reach is much better letting you pick up objects earlier.  The hotspot is less bright, as the light is more even  spread so some misinterpret these lights as being less bright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride on unlit mixed roads or on forest paths where you might need to see overhead branches or off the path/road a symmetrical beam will be better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T22:56:15.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-14T00:00:14.323" Score="0" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to buy a Commencal VIP JR frame which has the 142mm x 12mm rear end. I'd like to keep my same wheelset however. My current rear hub is just the standard quick-release (which I assume is 135mm correct?). Is this possible? Perhaps with an adapter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14427" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T01:22:44.637" Title="Can I use my standard quick-release rear hub with a frame with 142x12mm rear end?" Tags="&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25655" CreationDate="2014-11-14T00:33:43.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this depends on your hub -- we don't know what wheel set you are running. Some manufacturers (Hope, Chris King, etc.) have released adapter kits for some their hubs to be used as 12x142 mm, however other wheel sets don't have compatible hubs. If your hub manufacturer hasn't released told you that you can do the conversion, you're out of luck and need to get new wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T00:33:43.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2540" CreationDate="2014-11-14T01:35:55.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;it happened to me too. i bought a brand new bike from a local store, and the rear brakes had a leakage, so all the rotors where covered in mineral oil.&#xA;it doesn't matter how much you clean your brake pads, it wont go very easily.&#xA;i sank the pads in water and then boiled for a couple of minutes, i burnt the pads over the oven, and with alcohol. then i sanded the pads with a very thin grit and finally rode the bike braking only with rear's &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;of course, also cleaned the rotor almost every day for a week with alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 3 months, the noise stopped and the pads are getting much sticky and more sensible to the finger, but if you don't want to go through all that, just buy new pads AND CLEAN PERFECTLY THE ROTORS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's only a matter of pads contamination, its OIL, that's why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;sorry for my english, and good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14429" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T01:35:55.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-14T02:23:52.830" Score="1" ViewCount="2871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old bike it says Via Montega on the body if that helps. I was riding it earlier when the pedaling stopped resulting in forward motion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought the chain might have come loose but it is definitely where it is supposed to be. The chain is attached and will shift gears but the back wheel doesn't turn. The wheel does spin freely if pushed. It seems like the gears and the wheel aren't connected but there is some sort of plastic guard between the gears and wheel so I can't see the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something I can fix myself with limited to know bike repair knowledge or do I need to take it in? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so how expensive is it likely to be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14431" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T00:48:16.530" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T00:48:16.530" Title="My back wheel isn't connected to the gears" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25659" CreationDate="2014-11-14T02:31:17.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike is made by Univega and probably has a freewheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pedaling motion still works, I'd guess your freewheel is shot (the thing that the gears are on in the back). You have to remove it with a freewheel remover and put on a new one. This requires a freewheel remover tool and a large wrench or vise, so you might want to take it to a shop and let them check it over and swap the freewheel out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T02:31:17.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2540" CreationDate="2014-11-14T03:05:29.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an outside chance it's frozen cables. Definitely not the likeliest problem, but if you run through everything else and it's still happening...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T03:05:29.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27158" CreationDate="2014-11-14T03:05:49.007" Score="1" ViewCount="683" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike has 2009 Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed drivetrain. I recently changed the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-veloce-10-speed-cassette/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cassette (still Veloce 10 speed)&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com.au/campagnolo-record-10-speed-chain/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain (campagnolo Record 10 speed)&lt;/a&gt;. I assumed the fact that the chain was in the Record series wouldn't matter since it's still 10 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can't get the new setup to shift well. If I tune it so that it downshifts smoothly, it's noisy while pedaling (unless I exert a small force on the upshift lever). If I tune it so there's no noise while riding, it won't downshift properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further reading of the Record chain says it's &quot;Ultra narrow&quot; so I'm wondering if that chain isn't compatible with the rest of the Veloce drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my issue adjustment or compatibility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T03:30:25.063" Title="Campagnolo drivetrain compatibility and noise" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25659" CreationDate="2014-11-14T03:09:13.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of links you can check out and gauge for yourself if it's something you want to tackle. This is kinda towards the deep end of the pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/8Se6a5A4sJY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T03:09:13.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25639" CreationDate="2014-11-14T05:41:02.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is the availability of parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Dahon in Tokyo and  the local bike shops there don't always have the 20&quot; tubes and have to order away. You might want to bring a couple of inner tubes (and depending on how long you're there, some tires). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, while in Tokyo I broke a folding pedal off my Dahon. This is one of the weak areas of the standard Dahon design as it uses plastics/composites in the folding pedal. I had to wait a couple of weeks for this to be special ordered. If I had replaced it with a non-folding pedal, I could have had a replacement immediately, but then I couldn't fold the bike in half any more. I replaced it with a metal folding pedal that is much more solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, if you'll be in India for a while you might want to stock up on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inner tubes and a spare tire or two   (in addition to a patch kit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spokes (20&quot; wheels use small   spokes that are hard to find in remote areas)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other spare parts as  necessary&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or have access to a friend who's willing to special   order parts in for you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I like my Dahon as it's easy to fold, slip into its carry bag, and take on the train. Mine is one of the lighter versions, just around 12kg (25 pounds) so it's still luggable. I've taken it all over Japan, from northern Hokkaido to western Honshu. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-11-16T02:15:01.003" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T02:15:01.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25628" CreationDate="2014-11-14T06:00:47.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can unlock it, it's very easy as the mounting bolts are uncovered when it's unlocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is locked, then it's a bit more difficult but not much more. The lock housing you can see in the image below is just stamped metal riveted together. Some ring locks are so weak that a good whack on the locking lever will spring it open.  Otherwise, the easiest way to remove it is the same way thieves would do it: use an angle grinder or bolt cutters. It takes about 10-20 seconds with the right tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cCci7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because ring locks only lock the rear wheel to the frame, they are very low security. They're fine for low-theft environments and for heavy steel utility bikes or mommy-bikes, but if you have a nice, light bike, it's easy for thief to just pick up the bike and throw it over their shoulder or throw it in a truck. Essentially, ring locks keep people honest in honest communities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: I've lived in Japan for several years where ring locks are the main style used, and had to replace locks for family members who have lost keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T06:00:47.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25745" CreationDate="2014-11-14T10:00:27.817" Score="1" ViewCount="1519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have come across a really annoying issue that I just can't seem to put a finger on, and it is causing nothing but heart ache and frustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was checking to see how much wear I had on my brake pads, unfortunately the lighting was too dark for me to see correctly while the pads were seated in the Caliper, so I had to remove the pads from the caliper. Once I was done checking the brake pads, I re-seated them and noticed that there was now a lot of play in the shifter/brake lever (I'm using a combo of SRAM Apex &amp;amp; Rival (Brakes) components).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike has an internal cable for the rear brake and I believe that the issue may lay here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I did what I thought would be a straight forward brake tensioning adjustment, but now there is so much play in the lever and I'm finding the one of the calipers isn't returning to it's usual position. I have tried everything, YouTube, adjusting the adjustment barrel thing, unfortunately the Rival Brakes don't have an adjustment screw on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried everything I can think of and I just can't get it back to how I had it set before. Any advice on how I can overcome this problem will be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanking you in advance,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stu : )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14434" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T03:52:17.853" Title="Adding Brake Caliper Cable Tension SRAM Rival" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;tension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25669" CreationDate="2014-11-14T14:12:20.177" Score="1" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I use a touring bike with rear rack and a single panier on my 15km commute. In my panier I carry a full set of clothes including shoes, a small coat and a towel. I want to start using my road bike on my commute because it is a better bike in almost all ways except for the cargo situation.&#xA;The panier I use is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.com/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=backrollerclassic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ortlieb back-roller classic&lt;/a&gt;. It is huge, it is completely waterproof, and I fix it to my bike in one quick motion. I'm looking for something that matches or improves on most of those characteristics but fits on a road bike.&#xA;More specifically, I'd like to find a cargo solution for my road bike that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is at least 15-20 litres.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is waterproof in standard setup (no rain-covers).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does not interfere with my biking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attaches and detaches with minimal effort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(bonus points) is aerodynamic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(bonus points) looks good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a backpack, but that violates point 3 and (somewhat) 5. Also, it is sweaty and bad for my back. I've been looking into the various bags that attach on top of a rear-rack such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.com/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=trunkbag&amp;amp;biketoy=trunk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ortlieb trunk bag&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/bags/mtx_trunk_drybag_bk2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;topeak trunk drybag&lt;/a&gt; but they are too small. Topeak has bigger models but those have a strange compartmentalisation, and they are not waterproof (since you can buy separate rain covers).&#xA;I'd like to avoid the asymmetry of a single panier, and I'd also like to avoid attaching a full rear-rack to my roadbike. Seatpost-mounted rack is fine though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit (2014-12-01): In the end I decided to go for a backpack, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortlieb.de/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=packmanpro2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the ortlieb packman pro 2&lt;/a&gt; to be exact. Reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100% waterproof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some bike-friendly features (notably, some ventilation on the back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exactly the size I need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quicker and better ease of use than all rack-mounted or seatpost-mounted solutions I could find.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T15:21:51.727" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T21:59:50.987" Title="Medium size cargo solution for road-bike for commuting" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25668" CreationDate="2014-11-14T17:31:58.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would really recommend re-looking at a backpack.  There are a large variety of packs out there and the drybag styles ones seem to get better every year.  I have found that a backpack is a more dynamic way to carry weight.  You might look for one with better airflow built into the padding section.  I find that if I dress just a little more lightly and have a pack with good airflow, &quot;sweaty back&quot; is a bit less of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cascadedesigns.com/sealline/commute&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;drybag style pack&lt;/a&gt; that works for you, you could always look for a base pack that fits all your requirements and then just stuff a uber-light drybag in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along those lines, you might also look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm/store.catalog/Seat-Bags/Terrapin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Revelate Designs&lt;/a&gt; new holster bag.  Essentially it sits under your seat and provides a secure place to stuff a drysack with ease of on/off for the drysack.  Your personal opinion will dictate whether it meets requirement 6 or not.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T17:31:58.407" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25673" CreationDate="2014-11-14T20:12:37.777" Score="0" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my first bicycle shoes (Specialized, SPD) and got four mountable studs. I'm planning on touring for about a month. Mostly on roads, perhaps occasionally on dirt tracks and larger trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not too concerned about weight, so I started thinking of whether it would be a good idea to mount them before going or not. I'm thinking either of mounting them permanently or not mounting them at all, as I don't want to bring extra tools/stuff with me on the trip that I might not end up using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14440" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T21:38:33.913" Title="Cyclocross touring, studs for SPD shoes?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25670" CreationDate="2014-11-14T21:10:07.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say mount them.  The weight is negligible and if you are a person that finds them useful, they'll be there.  Make sure you use some LocTite or similar on the threads.  If you don't and the rattle out during your trip, you'll wish you had.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I been through a few pairs of MTB shoes and I have never found the studs useful for anything I have done.  I spend a lot of time riding on ice, and they are too blunt to provide traction on compacted snow or ice.  Sidi makes spikes that are quite a bit sharper and longer than normal.  I used them for awhile as they offered good purchase on ice, but found they had a tendency to stick in floor grates and snap off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T21:10:07.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25670" CreationDate="2014-11-14T21:20:50.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you plan to do a lot of sprinting up muddy hills to jump barriers, the studs are just extra weight that makes annoying noises when you're walking around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SPD is great for touring since you can easily walk around in the shoes, the studs detract from that without adding much benefit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get small &quot;set screws&quot; to fill the holes where the studs would go. This prevents&#xA;the threads getting filled with dirt in case you decide to use them later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_set_screws_Allen_Cup_point_Stainless_steel_18-8.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_set_screws_Allen_Cup_point_Stainless_steel_18-8.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T21:20:50.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25670" CreationDate="2014-11-14T21:38:33.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest removing them.  Studs are only useful for steep hike a bike scenarios on loose dirt or clay (something that the spikes can bite).  These were really intended for XC race situations, where some climbs are too steep to ride so you need to throw the XC bike on your shoulder and run like you stole it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all the tours I have never done, including dirt road tours, I have never found a need for studs.  The bikes are often too heavy to push up inclines steep enough to require studs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walking on the asphalt, studs are slippery and could cause you to slip at an inopportune time.  For example, when you put a foot down while on the saddle, you will be on your toes.  Pushing off on the studs when on pavement could be difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the only situation where I think you might find them handy is if you encounter a ruby scrummage.  Here toe cleats are a must!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T21:38:33.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2744" CreationDate="2014-11-15T02:29:18.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be careful with overinflation, as while rolling resistance drops with increasing pressure, there comes a point when further increasing tyre pressure begins to dramatically increase rolling resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often this is around the point of the tyre's maximum rated pressure, although it can be less than that depending on a few factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an article that discusses some of the physics of tyres and demonstrates a methodology to assess where the sweet spot for lowest rolling resistance is:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/What_s_in_a_tube__1034.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/What_s_in_a_tube__1034.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyres that are overinflated become more skittish when cornering, and are more likely to slip in wet road surface cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also many modern carbon rims have maximum pressure ratings that can be less than the tyres themselves, so be careful with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, it's better to be a little under inflated than over inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T02:29:18.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25668" CreationDate="2014-11-15T03:55:51.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be able to get away with a handlebar bag (Ortlieb has a waterproof one that claims to hold 7l) plus a messenger bag or light backpack, or the underseat stuff sack mentioned by Chris in AK. I agree with commenter Blam that leaving the shoes at work will drastically reduce the needed volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A porteur rack in front might do the job too, and perhaps be a bit easier to remove than a rear rack. (Much depends on your brake setup; it's easy to get a front rack off my bike because its disc brakes don't get in the way.) Linus and Velo Orange have nice porteurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T03:55:51.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25628" CreationDate="2014-11-15T04:57:42.723" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Performed the operation today and it was, as suggested, very easy. Simply unscrewed a bolt on each side affixing the lock to the seat stays. For mine, the lock did not obstruct these bolts. I was then able to twist the ring lock and pull off the wheel, around the fenders, without any more fuss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z0FYi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8084" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T04:57:42.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31034" CreationDate="2014-11-15T22:09:52.607" Score="5" ViewCount="8137" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jonesbikes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jones&lt;/a&gt; makes a great pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jonesbikes.com/handlebars/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;touring handlebars&lt;/a&gt; with a loop for mounting lots of accessories, but their prices are a bit steep ($120-$425). I'm building a mountain touring bike and I've been trying to find a comparable bar for a more reasonable price, but so far no luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Jones the only company that makes this style of handlebar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgag4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jones h-bar loop handlebar&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: There are plenty of accessory mounts that can do the same job as the loop on the h-bar, but I'm not interested in those. I'm looking for this exact style of bar, or a significantly similar bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T20:56:32.457" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T14:00:29.103" Title="Who else makes H-bar Loop Handlebars?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25684" CreationDate="2014-11-15T22:31:36.270" Score="2" ViewCount="2540" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local bike shop have one of these green nozzles that anyone can use to pump their bike. They say that only companies can buy those, but I would really like such for my blue compressor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I like about this type is that there is no tap that needs to be flipped like so &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61EqrVfC0lL._SL1500_.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;many pumps have&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what such nozzle is called and perhaps online shops that allow for end users to buy such?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1BDX9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MTzi1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11189" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T22:11:15.287" Title="What is this pumping nozzle called?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-15T23:59:44.377" Score="10" ViewCount="7729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent a fair bit of time riding in the lane, in traffic. In this situation, it seems that a brake light would be very useful: It's not always obvious when the vehicle ahead of you is slowing down, and I don't want to be rear-ended by someone who doesn't notice me slowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This intuition does not match reality. I was not able to find any bicycle brake lights that seem really ready for prime time. This is what I was able to find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://smile.amazon.com/Q-Lite-Multi-Function-Tail-Light/dp/B00I53W5YS&quot;&gt;Q-Lite Multi&lt;/a&gt; — Apparently available from just one vendor (TerraTrike). Not mentioned on manufacturer (Q-Lite) website.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sungoinc.com/light/products.html&quot;&gt;Maxxon&lt;/a&gt; — Available on Amazon, but poor reviews suggest it does not detect deceleration well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://revolights.com/pages/howitworks&quot;&gt;Revolights&lt;/a&gt; — Complicated spoke mounting system; unclear drivers will interpret it properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://vd.ee/&quot;&gt;Velodroom&lt;/a&gt; — Not yet available (pre-order only).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lucidbrake.com/&quot;&gt;LucidBrake&lt;/a&gt; — Perhaps the most promising of the bunch. Apparently available only direct from a not-so-great website.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first uses a brake handle-mounted switch. The others use accelerometers to detect slowing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the major bike light manufacturers seem to offer a brake light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what's the disconnect? Am I misjudging the value of brake lights? Is there some challenge that makes them hard to offer for bicycles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T18:40:26.703" Title="Why are brake lights not common?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="14" ClosedDate="2016-10-10T22:25:53.250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25682" CreationDate="2014-11-16T01:25:39.797" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you mean &quot;It's not always obvious when the vehicle ahead of you is slowing down&quot;. Cars have brake lights.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bike to bike communication you say slowing or stopping and hold your left hand in a down position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bike to car the car is typically going faster. Here is my flashing light - I am a bike - please don't run over me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car to car they have lights because they have windows, stereo, AC, and kids in the back seat.  They need lights to communicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-16T01:31:11.837" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T01:31:11.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25680" CreationDate="2014-11-16T02:20:02.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's just a standard &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;schrader&lt;/a&gt; head.  Locking heads are only needed for hand- or foot-pumps as you can't secure the head on while pumping the pump manually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any well-stocked automobile parts store will have a schrader head for an air-compressor that doesn't require a locking head.  Schrader valves are the same valves used on your automobile tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, my local part supply store has this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harborfreight.com/20-Piece-Air-Compressor-Starter-Kit-68191.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;kit&lt;/a&gt; for $14.  Just walk into a car parts store and ask for the tire-inflation attachment for your compressor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYGrF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if your bike has a presta or dunlop valve, you'll need either an adapter or a different head.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be careful when using an electric air compressor to inflate your tires. Your bike tires are very low-volume and it's easy to over-inflate and burst them. Set the pressure on the compressor as low as you can and don't trust the low pressure cut-off to react quick enough to save your tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, your specific compressor (the Scheppach HC16w) has a maximum pressure of 8 bar (around 116 psi) and does not have a storage air-tank. Be careful when pumping up low-pressure tires (like regular bicycle tires) so that you don't over inflate them.  You may have trouble inflating racing or road bike tires (100 psi+) and may have to top them off with a track pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-11-16T22:11:15.287" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T22:11:15.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25682" CreationDate="2014-11-16T02:53:39.563" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summary: it's hard to make a light that reliably turns on only when the brakes are used.  Most cyclists who want brake lights buy rear flashing lights because they're cheap and ubiquitous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring cost, to work well a brake light on the back of a bike would need to be paired with a constantly on, non-flashing light, purely so that people who saw it would recognise it as a brake light. Otherwise it's just another blinking light on a bike. Then it needs to be daylight visible, or no-one will see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience with rear lights, 200 lumens is about the level you'd want from a brake light. My always-on dynamo rear light is about half that and while it's visible it doesn't really stand out. In other words, it makes the bike more visible without being too bright. But for a &quot;hey, I'm stopping&quot; light, you want more than that. So the combination of a 200-500mW always-on light with a 1W or 2W &quot;BRAKES!!!&quot; light would probably work pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately most super-bright LED rear lights are designed to overdrive the LEDs in short flashs, but for a brake light you want a solid 2-5 seconds of on time. Which means bigger, more expensive LEDs. And also a bigger, heavier battery to drive them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sensors are also challenging. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.SeeSense.co&quot;&gt;SeeSense&lt;/a&gt; have done a lot of work on accellerometers in bike lights and from using their light, braking detection is ok but not brilliant. If I  hit the brakes to reduce the impact of hitting a pothole, for example, the light seems to got into &quot;holy shit&quot; mode instead of braking mode 90% of the time. Which might be ok for a brake light, 5 seconds of braking mode in that situation is fine. But it means that I'll get 5 seconds of braking mode when I bunnyhop a curb or bounce a speed bump too. Which isn't really &quot;braking&quot; as I think of it - I'm definitely not slowing down at that stage. So you probably want sensors on the brake levers as well (the accellerometer is built into the CPU that runs the lights). Which means wires and fiddly mechanical bits. I dunno, that seems hard to me, you have to cover road bikes with integrated electronic shifting right down to basic V brake levers. Sounds expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get an idea of costs, look at some of the KickStarter bike lights. It seems to cost about $100 to get a light to market. Which means hardware costs of about $25. If we double that because we're using, say, two 18650 LiIon batteries (18Wh) instead of one, CR123/16340 battery (half-16550, 4.5Wh) and a 0.5W RED LED as the primary light plus a pair of 1W LEDs as the brake light... ok, maybe triple it. So you're looking at a light that will cost about $200-$300, assuming the sensors are cheap and reliable. Cheap means pure accellerometers, like the last light in your list. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which makes them &quot;something is happening&quot; lights... just like any other blinking light on the back of a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T02:53:39.563" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25682" CreationDate="2014-11-16T04:01:46.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle rarely use harsh braking, even if you have enough braking power, you wouldn't use it because you probably know how easy it would be to come off the bike using harsh braking.&#xA;So the benefit of a signal saying: &quot;Hey I'm stopping, u better brake and be ready to stop&quot; is minimised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a motorist, I noticed that cyclist rarely ride in the middle of the road, and in front of a car, then suddenly brake-check me... Rather more often, other motorist did brake-check on me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me as a cyclist to motorist, I am rarely stupid (enough) to hold up a fast moving 'object' behind me, leave alone braking. &#xA;As a cyclist to cyclist, there is no need to tailgating another cyclist. I only did tail-gating when riding in my club where people know that no matter what happen, avoid harsh braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T04:01:46.683" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25534" CreationDate="2014-11-16T14:13:50.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end I purchased a new Tange bottom bracket with a 127mm axle/spindle. My old BB was 113.5mm. Installed the new Tange BB and it has improved the chainline a lot. Relatively cheap solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12758" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T14:13:50.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25735" CreationDate="2014-11-16T16:45:53.383" Score="0" ViewCount="1611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ask this here because I couldn't find too much information or reviews about BLB Mosquito saddles. If administrators find this question doesn't fit into this place, please feel free to remove/edit this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm about to order a 'Tan' version of a BLB Mosquito saddle (from London to Bogota, that saddle will travel too much far I've traveled in my entire life). I fell in love with it because its style and color (it suits perfectly with my bike, a somewhat customized GIOS Torino Pro '86); since having a BLB handlebar, I feel BLB is doing a very nice work with their products. I have to say I felt somewhat tempted to get a Brooks saddle because of their reputation thing, but I didn't liked any of them (too much fancy for me, and they're very expensive) so I decided to get the BLB one (it happens to be inspired by Brooks saddles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aAY20.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brick Lane Bikes Mosquito Saddle, Tan&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with it, I'm ordering a Velo Orange long setback seatpost. I guess I won't have any problems using that BLB Mosquito saddle with that seatpost, but just in case I ask here if someone have had any experience with that seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting to the point: since I commute about 2 hours/day (40 km/day, 200 km/week) and I'm riding with a old, cheap, wider and doesn't-even-have-foam-inside saddle, do you think it's a good choice going for the BLB one? Do you have any recommendations for its usage or keeping its leather in good look? Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14449" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T19:23:45.590" Title="What are the strengths, weaknesses and/or recommendations for a BLB Mosquito Saddle?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-01-12T01:26:21.057" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25680" CreationDate="2014-11-16T17:08:44.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Search for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=schrader%20chuck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;schrader chuck&lt;/a&gt;&quot; or &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=schrader%20head&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;schrader head&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, and take your pick. If you want one locally. any auto parts store should have a couple to choose from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you need a presta head, just switch the search terms. &lt;a href=&quot;http://silca.cc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Silca&lt;/a&gt; makes a couple of popular ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T17:08:44.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25679" CreationDate="2014-11-16T17:12:04.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Titec used to make a cheaper aluminum version, but it's been discontinued. You can probably still find them on eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T17:12:04.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25695" CreationDate="2014-11-16T18:43:52.020" Score="0" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this question to be on topic for this site, I want it to be more factual based than opinion, another similar question is &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/21473/is-it-a-good-idea-to-buy-a-7-year-old-mtb&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. If its not feel free to close it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking at buying an older (10 yrs old) Giant NRS 1 MTB, it has very good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/bikes/xc-suspensio/giant/nrs-1/prd_363242_1526crx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reviews&lt;/a&gt; for the frame especially, but other parts have been replaced (it has a new front wheel, cables etc.). Should I be worried that other parts will be about to fall off, or are replacements a good thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Ok so the wheel was replaced due to hitting a stump at night time, the cables were getting old, it has had plenty of action, but was well looked after. The rear sus has a tiny bit of play in the top bush (not enough to realise when riding)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also has a leaking front fork, not a big issue (probably new seal, or not worry), but makes me wonder if it is worth it, will cost around $400 US ish, do you think it will have other issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cheers in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14123" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T20:37:40.120" Title="Is an old mtb with replaced gear safe to buy?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-11-17T13:31:33.307" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25694" CreationDate="2014-11-16T19:41:22.853" Score="3" ViewCount="3527" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it ok that a suspension seat post like the one shown below (source: cyclande.com) is actually a bit loose (moves &lt;em&gt;a bit&lt;/em&gt; left-right and probably also up-down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TrUAI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vendor told that for such seats it's OK, but I'm not totally sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14453" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-11-16T20:34:36.107" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T20:49:05.477" Title="Suspension seat post is loose" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25692" CreationDate="2014-11-16T20:18:37.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used a couple of these seats over the years - the ones I had did have some movement - noticeable when riding. Although not ideal, you do get used to it.  It comes down to cost - it would be more expensive to precision manufacture them with no movement, but at some point people would stop buying, and another point, might as well buy a full suspension bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T20:18:37.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25692" CreationDate="2014-11-16T20:24:44.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An up-down movement is perfectly fine – that's what suspension seat posts are designed for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the side movement it's a bit more complicated. A suspension seat post is basically two tubes sliding into each other with some suspension mechanism. This requires two things: the tubes need a little clearance to move within each other and they need a mechanism that prevents the tubes from rotating towards each other – let's call it &lt;em&gt;anti-rotation machanism&lt;/em&gt;. The latter can be for example something like a bolt sliding in a notch or tubes with a non-circular cross-section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad thing is, those two elements are somewhat conflicting. An effective  anti-rotation mechanism requires the least possible clearance, which may inhibit the original purpose of the suspension seat post, which is to allow for up-down motion of the tubes. Therefore, the manufacturers have to find a trade-off between suspension performance and precision. Such precision is expensive and would quite surely also make the seat post heavier. Especially the products from the lower end of the price range might quite surely sacrifice some of the precision for a more &quot;reliable&quot; suspension performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer the question: yes, some side rotation or wiggle (something like +-2-3 degrees) should be quite common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T20:24:44.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25691" CreationDate="2014-11-16T20:25:33.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a mountain bike parts do wear out. I would be more cautious of a 10 year old bike with original parts unless it had original tires and I could still see the manufacturer 'tags' (i.e. like new) showing it had been ridden only once or twice and been a garage ornament for all but the first 2 weeks of its life.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike has been ridden regularly you will be wanting a well maintained one. This means parts replaced as they wear out or get damaged.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bough several second hand MTB's - you get a better bike for you money than new. The ones I have always ended up buying have had many parts replaced, as its these bikes that the riders are using regularity and keeping well tuned and maintained.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to the edits - a leaking front fork could simply need a new seal or it could be a new fork - its a deal breaker for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T20:25:33.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25691" CreationDate="2014-11-16T20:32:01.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aluminum fatigues.  A 10 year of bike with a lot of miles could be getting towards the end of it life.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a modern headset.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full suspension has come a long way in 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But 26&quot; wheels.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would rather have a hard tail 29&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to judge the parts based on inspection.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a leaky fork I would not do it period. &#xA;How do you know it is not a big issues? &#xA;Do you have a quote that it is a cheap repair?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me that is not the kind of bike you put a lot of money into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T20:32:01.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23297" CreationDate="2014-11-17T02:58:15.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wiley X makes prescription glasses, both wraparound and insert style.&#xA;They are much cheaper than the Oakley glasses.&#xA;In general, the wraparound glasses have a slightly larger field of view compared to the inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big advantage of the Wiley glasses is that they are very sturdy. &#xA;They are even certified as impact resistant safety glasses. Makes me feel safer when on the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wileyx.com/SAFETY/index.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wileyx.com/SAFETY/index.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14290" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T02:58:15.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-17T03:40:59.910" Score="4" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple years ago I rode through the winter (took last winter off) and am looking to resume. My bike got hammered during the New England winter though, especially the hubs. Other than a regular rinsing before putting the bike away what should I be doing specific to winter-proofing my bike as much as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: To address the duplicate flag, I'd like clarify that I'd like answers to be focused on maintenance - NOT on winter products.  I have everything I need to ride safely and comfortably to 0° F but I'm looking for help and suggestions on how to keep my bike running smoothly in this weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14299" LastEditorUserId="14299" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T14:37:26.673" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T14:19:02.507" Title="Tips for winter maintenance?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25698" CreationDate="2014-11-17T09:45:26.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of tips I learned when winter commuting in Calgary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depending on how much salt gets used on the roads where you live, using a good quality car wax on the frame will go a long way towards rust prevention.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A squirt of WD-40 on your chain, cable pivot points, etc. will displace any water that's collected there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your chain well lubed with a good quality wet lube (not a dry lube – dry lube is useless in the winter).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always always always make sure your rims are clean after a ride. You collect a lot more road sand and grit on your rims during the winter, which will shred your brake pads quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fenders are a godsend for keeping both you and your bike clean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you have good, strong, bright lights. The sun goes down early this time of year!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not maintenance releated, but: when it gets really cold, layered clothing is your best friend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike commuting through a cold winter is a badge of honor. Wear it well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T09:45:26.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25682" CreationDate="2014-11-17T12:47:06.210" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not common in Europe either, but it's getting less rare it seems like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick browse in one of the larger German online stores (Rose) shows that several of the larger bike light makers (Busch &amp;amp; Müller, Axa ...) now sell dynamo-powered rear lights with brake light functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All lights work in the same manner : They are fed rectified but not smoothed DC from the front light, which means that the DC is overloaded with a ripple from the front hub dynamo that is exactly proportional in frequency to bike speed. When the frequency drops fast enough (because of stopping) the light gets brighter. Quite elegant in a way. I haven't tried it, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It probably helps for marketing it that most commuting bikes here, especially in Germany, comes with hub dynamo and dynamo-powered (LED) lights both front and rear. I don't know how many find it useful &quot;seriously&quot; and how much it's just a novelty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, many velomobiles are sold with serious brake lights, often connected with a sensor on the brake lever (equivalent to the way it work on motor vehicles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14458" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T21:20:57.217" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T21:20:57.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25682" CreationDate="2014-11-17T15:32:37.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from the complexity already described, it's arguable that bikes are almost always going slower than cars, who seem to be the main following vehicle intended to notice brake lights. A car seeing a cyclist ahead will almost always need to slow down or overtake. If the cyclist is braking they just need to do so a little sooner. Coupled with being able to see when a cyclist is pedalling or not, this gives brake lights much less value on a bike. If rear light can go brighter without dazzling others, some cyclists would want to have it brighter all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(IIRC, this is the gist of a suggestion in a recent &lt;a href=&quot;http://issuu.com/ctc_cyclists/docs/ctc.issueoct_nov2014.lite/29?e=1823747/9884772&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CTC Cycle magazine article&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T08:33:52.887" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T08:33:52.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25679" CreationDate="2014-11-17T20:27:33.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some alternative manufacturers of relatively similar handlebars, even though some of them are even more expensive and thus not the answer the OP wants, some of them are cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I give you only the names because links are not allowed by BSE).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.humpert.com/en/bikeparts/marke/produktart/einsatzbereich/produkt/?marke=ergotec&amp;amp;produktart=1&amp;amp;einsatzbereich=1&amp;amp;produkt=129&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Humpert Boomerang Handlebars - 25.4 mm Clamp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Halo Bar, found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://ticycles.com/TCF/hardware.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TiCycles&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This unluckyly discontinued &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/OEM-titanium-Halo-Handlebar-22-2-lifetime-warranty-custom/1850836248.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OEM titanium Halo Handlebar 22.2&lt;/a&gt; that looks the same as the previous one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to search alternative names with no luck. Next best thing I can recomend that may give you similar hand positions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Moustache Bar&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Butterfly Bar&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you actually need is more space for accesories you can use one on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/handlebar_accessory_mount&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Problem Solvers handlebar accesory mount&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only comercially available product that I can mention, but I'm sure many others exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of accesories you need to mount you may be able to fashion DIY versions of this. Cyclocomputers, small lights, cellphone holders and similar are subjected to very small load, and can be perfectly mounted, for example on &lt;strong&gt;PVC tubbing&lt;/strong&gt;, wich is very easy to paint black with spray paint to disguise the DIY factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PVC is very easy to work with, Can be cut and sanded with the same simple tools used for basic woodworking, and the 90 and 45 deg. elbows available are great for creating odd shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source for DIY options is a hardware store. If you search google images for &quot;&lt;strong&gt;conduit brackets&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; you'll see a lot of types of brackets used to hold pipes in place. Being a little creative and finding scrap pieces of tubing of the right diameter is all the other needed thing. You can, for example, attach a piece of tubbing parallel to the handlebar using clamps like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GyRc8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;strong&gt;strips of old inner tube&lt;/strong&gt; to protect the handlebar from scratches, since these brakets are not very polished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to paint them, matt black anti corrosive spray paint gives a very good finish that kind-of resembles anodized black. Just use sandpaper to polish the brackets, wash them with kitchen soap to remove any grease and let dry before painting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These brackets, properly combined can be firm enough to install bottle holders or heavier lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage of these is that they are widely available, wich is an advantage when you mention touring since something may break while far from a specialized stores, but even small town hardware stores should carry pipe brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For example my commuting headlight is a tubular-shaped flashlight/torch held in place by means of two interlaced hose clamps. The clamps are looped one through the other in conventional-chain-like fashion. A strip from inner tube protects the handlebar and another protects the flashlight. The grip is so solid that I can perform some stunts or ride fast rocky descents and the light won't move at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since many accesories come with adjustable mounting brackets, you have yet another option that is using handlebar extensions to gain more room to mount accesories. If your handlebar are the thin diameter (25.4 dia) you can mount the extensions very close to the center of the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T17:14:46.293" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T17:14:46.293" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25692" CreationDate="2014-11-17T20:49:05.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's ok and to be expected. Even expensive dropper posts, which work via the same basic principles as telescoping suspension seatposts, have a bit of side to side movement. For the suspension seatposts, just ensure that the collar at the top of the stationary (outer) portion of the seatpost is firmly hand tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T20:49:05.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-17T23:58:51.180" Score="2" ViewCount="3007" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I wonder what happen if I replace my left crank with another right crank (either Square tapered or ISIS splined wouldn't matter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the disadvantages apart from:&#xA;1) the pedal thread loosening over time (can be fixed using thread locking and hope it works..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please list any other problems I might have overlooked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T15:34:27.283" Title="Right crank (Drive side) on the left?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25705" CreationDate="2014-11-18T00:28:52.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you'd have a spider on both sides is one odd and annoying thing. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/org/gunnar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; has run the cranks in reverse on regular (non-bmx) bikes [In BMX, there is a reasonable set of options going both ways]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd also probably get a strange &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q_factor_(bicycles)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Q-factor&lt;/a&gt; as well given that the insertion depths are different for the right and left crankarms. This could be compounded if you happen to have a non-symmetrical spindle length bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It should work in theory - why you'd want to do this in practice unless you were in the odd situation of having two good right crank arms and no good left crank arms is a mystery...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T00:28:52.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25682" CreationDate="2014-11-18T05:06:47.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cost would have to be the biggest obstacle. Several hundred dollars to retrofit a system, assuming it is impeccably reliable, might be an insignificant expense to someone riding a $7,000 titanium custom bike, but it's an insurmountable sum for someone riding a Craigslist beater bike because it's what they can afford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For new bikes, let's presume that mass production would take the cost down to $100. Once again, for the person buying a $6,000 cromoly lugged custom bike, it's nothing to tack on $100. For the person shopping at a Big Box Store, they aren't going to tack on $100 for a brake light when they're only looking to spend $150 to $250 on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I set aside cost, I would have to express my skepticism that a brake light offers any significant improvement in safety. I run 10 lights on my commuter: 4 tail lights, 2 head lights, and 4 spoke lights. I have my eye on additional lights to improve visibility--head, tail, and side--but brake lights aren't even on my radar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T05:06:47.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25709" CreationDate="2014-11-18T05:40:22.347" Score="0" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never had this problem with my Hayes stroker trail. It only seems to start working after I stop for a minute or two. I am riding 30% grades so a lot of force for the short time period, then the brake softens up to the point where it loses 90% of the braking ability, and I can only use my front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5392" LastEditorUserId="3639" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T20:10:24.847" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T18:57:29.387" Title="New Shimano m615 rear caliper fails and stops biting the rotor after 30 seconds of extreme downhill" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25708" CreationDate="2014-11-18T07:00:32.403" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's easy to determine that you're obviously losing your braking power due to heat generation. But hard to pin down exactly what's wrong without actually looking at your bike. There are a couple of things that could be going on, which could be a result of a &lt;strong&gt;mechanical&lt;/strong&gt; issue, &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; an &lt;strong&gt;operational&lt;/strong&gt; issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mechanical Issue&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, your m615 brakes are only middle of the line, they aren't intended for &lt;em&gt;extreme&lt;/em&gt; downhill (check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridesaint.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saint line&lt;/a&gt;), but even still, 30 seconds isn't a very long time before failure. There are a number of questions I would ask you in the shop;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has this always been a problem, or is it something new? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long have you been riding these brakes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When was the last time you changed your pads?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When was the last time you had your system bled? &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; Did you use Shimano oil?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also inspect your bike, check what size rotors you're using and look for any obvious signs of oil leaks. I'd check the wear of your brake pads, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; use a micrometer to check the wear on your rotors. I would look at the colour of your rotors, if they're blue then you've cooked them and they need to be replaced (Bluing steel makes it harder, harder steel means less friction–ergo–less stopping power). If nothing was visually obvious then I would bleed your brakes to check the condition of the oil, and make sure there isn't any air in the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano Brakes use mineral oil, which is different than the DOT brake oil that would go in your Hayes brakes. Different oils have different boiling points, DOT oil is regulated (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1-The higher numbers reaching higher boiling points) But Mineral oil is not regulated, which is why it's recommended to use the manufacturers oil. Some shops use bulk mineral oil made for other applications because it's cheaper to buy (Shimano oil is &lt;em&gt;expensive&lt;/em&gt;), but it may not necessarily have a high enough boiling point. If your oil isn't pink, then it's either dead, or not from Shimano.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Opperational Issue&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the part where I grill people about &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; they ride. Improper riding habits are a mechanics bread and butter, I've replaced more parts from riders causing damage to them than from parts wearing out due to normal use. One of the bluest pair of rotors I've ever seen came off of a bike whose rider was probably a good 250lbs and rode about 10km back down a trail–that was ALL downhill–riding his back brake the &lt;em&gt;whole&lt;/em&gt; way. You have two brakes for a reason, and the &lt;strong&gt;FRONT&lt;/strong&gt; brake is the one with all the stopping power. When riding extreme DH, your back brake is for &lt;em&gt;steering&lt;/em&gt;, your front is the one that stops you. You need to use them &lt;em&gt;together&lt;/em&gt; when you need a lot of braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JSWYT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave my big friend with the blue rotors a long lesson in proper braking, then installed a new 8' rotor on his rear wheel and a big 9' rotor on his front. He never had brake problems again. It's important to make sure you have a braking system that can handle you and what you ride, if you're  bigger guy, then you're going to need bigger brakes, if you like to ride fast and steep, then again, you're going to need bigger brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If bleeding your brakes or swapping out brake parts is a bit beyond you, then you need to take your bike to your local shop, they'll be able to tell you exactly what's going on, and may recommend you upgrade your brakes or your rotors. The alternative is to slow it down and ride gentler grades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T18:57:29.387" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T18:57:29.387" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25711" CreationDate="2014-11-18T07:21:25.673" Score="2" ViewCount="5246" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a full suspension MTB, does a high seat post (extending from frame by 25cm, 10&quot; or more) contribute to frame weakness, should one look to have a bike with a tall seat tube, or are MTB's designed like this and shouldn't break?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14123" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T14:24:45.410" Title="Does a high MTB seat post risk frame breaking" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25710" CreationDate="2014-11-18T09:09:56.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is usually a minimum insertion marker on the seat post to indicate the minimum amount of the seat post which should remain in the seat tube.  The frame manufacturer might also specify a minimum insertion depth for the frame.  It is not recommended to run the seat post inserted any less than the greater of these two this as it can put the frame under stress and you risk cracking the frame at the top of the seat tube (I've seen this happen first hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that with a 400mm seat post I think you'd be able to have 250mm extending from the frame and the 150mm remaining in the seat tube would be sufficient.  You'd have to check the seatpost/frame recommendations but if I remember correctly the Rockshox Reverb dropper posts have an 80mm minimum insertion depth, so 150mm is certainly not extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13682" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T09:09:56.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25710" CreationDate="2014-11-18T13:17:52.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mountain bikes in general are going to have a more seat post out compared to a road bike as that is the frame design.  Mountain bike have a sloped top tube and road bike flat or slightly sloped.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using the bicycle as designed then it should not be a problem. &#xA;Don't buy a small frame if you are 6 foot and put a monster seat post on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bike also have bigger diameter seat tubes - typically 31.6 versus 27.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated by chored there is a minimum insertion distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDugY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SeatPost&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T13:17:52.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25698" CreationDate="2014-11-18T14:19:02.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hubs/Bearings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean and repack your bearings every fall. Most bicycle greases are fine for low temperatures, but if you are biking in sub-zero temperatures you may want to look at a product like Lubripate Mag-1 which is rated for use in temperatures down to -60 degrees Fahrenheit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are biking in wet conditions as well as cold, you may want to clean and repack the bearings in the middle of the cold season or more frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would include hubs, headsets bottom brackets and pedals if any of them have serviceable rather than sealed bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard that freehubs can be winterized too, but I have never ridden in conditions cold enough to freeze a free hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspensions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an oil-damped suspension you will likely want to talk to the mechanics at your local bike shop about winterizing the shocks. Low temps will impact the viscosity of the oil and could damage the shocks. If your shocks use elastomer suspensions they will likely freeze and stop working as you approach 0 F, but the bike should still be ridable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chains&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use dry or wax lube, you will want to switch to a wet lube for the winter. This will protect your drive train from salt and water a little better, but will require you to spend more time cleaning and re-lubricating the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For snowy conditions, wider tires with widely spaced knobs will give you the best traction. On a MTB you are probably fine with your normal knobby tires. On a road bike you will likely want to switch to cyclocross tires if you have sufficient clearance between the tire and the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are frequently biking on ice, you will want to look into studded bicycle tires, which I know are available for mountain bikes, but I haven't seen in my area for road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hints&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are a couple of things I do to prepare for winter ridding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cover tool handles with foam or electrical tape to insulate them. Few things are worse than taking your gloves off to manipulate a tool and having it freeze to your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pack extra tubes and a CO2 inflator so that in the case of a flat tire you can change it quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything plastic will get brittle and break very easily. So when looking for parts, water bottle cages and toe clips (if you use them) look for metal ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, leave your bike in a cold area. If you take a bike out of your warm house into a cold and snowy area, any snow kicked up will melt first on the warm frame and components, then freeze to the bike causing ice buildup. This is particularly annoying on the drivetrain. By the same token, when you bring the bike inside after riding, take care to dry it completely, or any remaining moisture will re-freeze as soon as you take it back out on a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T14:19:02.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25710" CreationDate="2014-11-18T14:24:45.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also a few rules of the thumb to know how much of the seatpost to leave in the frame. If the limit line is not visible on the seatpost, te safe way is to keep 1/3 of its length in the frame. Although it's more than enough for most models (it's around 10-15cm depending on the length of your seatpost), some more expensive ones tend to have thinner walls towards the bottom, which is why going below minimum is a risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the seatpost should be inserted so that the bottom of the seatpost is below the top tube of a frame (if a given frame has a physical top tube), so the top tube acta against the loads on the seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T14:24:45.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17185" CreationDate="2014-11-18T14:53:17.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Specialized pump that's starting to do the exact same thing. Although there is a possibility that something simple could be going wrong with our pumps, the most likely explanation is that they have gotten some good use out of them over the years and as a result, they have &lt;strong&gt;worn out&lt;/strong&gt;. Nothing lasts forever, especially not if it's got bushings, rubber seals and o-rings. I manage to extend the life of my pumps by oiling the seals, preferably with mineral oil as this tends to inflate the rubber seals a bit, but when something is worn out, it's worn out and simply needs replacing. You could rebuild your pump, but only if you can find a kit with all the parts you need, but there's no guarantee that would work like new. I'm planning on getting a new pump here pretty quick, you should probably do the same, it's a simple matter of life cycle replacement, count it as a regular maintenance expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T14:53:17.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5662" CreationDate="2014-11-18T15:56:05.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any one who is serious about riding in the winter needs give some type of bar mits a close look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing &amp;amp; I mean absolutely nothing comes close to working as well at keeping hands warm, dry while also giving the dexterity needed for shifting &amp;amp; braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most are a basic shell that attach to to the bars. They allow you to wear much thinner regular gloves maintaining needed desterity.&#xA;They are called simply Bar mitts, poagies etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14472" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T15:56:05.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25719" CreationDate="2014-11-18T16:28:43.590" Score="3" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm somewhat new to biking, and I've been commuting to work on my new touring/hybrid bike for a few months now (it's a 2014 Novara Safari). I am very interested in doing some actual self-supported bike tours, but I'm unclear on what type of routes I can expect to tackle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I can do paved and gravel trails/roads, but will any type of single-track or dirt-path be unthinkable for great distances? I suspect anything with jumps is a bad idea, but that's probably true for any loaded bike. What other things should I look out for on these trails with a non-MTB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a follow-up, what can I do to improve my bike for these rougher paths? I have already installed Schwalbe Marathon Pro Tours (original continentals kept slipping in wet grass and getting flats at the sight of a thorn), which have some decent tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context, I'm considering segments on the Ozark Trail in Missouri. If I can't reasonably expect to do this on my current bike, I'll be settling for the Katy Trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14473" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T17:56:46.700" Title="What type of terrain makes an MTB mandatory?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25717" CreationDate="2014-11-18T17:36:12.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Novara Safari is a bike designed for off road touring.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/874998/novara-safari-bike-2015?s_kwcid=sCOWE9ywp_dc%7Cpcrid%7C56615653205%7Cpkw%7Cnovara%20safari%7Cpmt%7Ce%7Cgoogle%7Cmain&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQiA-aujBRDqj772vpGfgooBEiQAzWAZUsOGQ6jPkfWz87UBs_q6cBjbmaVdFuvI4i67yhGPuB4aArc38P8HAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Novara Safari Bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a load you are not going to be doing real technical stuff. &#xA;But you should be a be able to handle &quot;improved trails&quot;. &#xA;The biggest tires it will take is the best thing you can do - and practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link says it has Alex ATD 470 rims. Those are not high end rims and more of a road width. &#xA;Higher end wider wheels would help but you would need to spend $400 for a significant upgrade so I would run with what you have. &#xA;I think they support tubeless - you may want to consider that but for loaded touring I would not go tubeless as you need to run at higher pressures for the weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride trails on my cycloross all the time.  And it is not that different from my fixed suspension mountain bike.  What you lose on more full sized frame is get your weight back on a drop off.  But you are not going to be doing steep drop offs with a load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike is a little higher end than yours but the same style bike&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5fgXo2u60M&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikepacking trip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what type of terrain makes MTB mandatory?&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Steep drop off&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Jump into drop off&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Big bumps / rocks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T17:56:46.700" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T17:56:46.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25717" CreationDate="2014-11-18T17:45:01.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you would find the bike handles reasonably on single track, 4x4 tracks and dirt paths but there are a few things to bear in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd ride single track but stick to trails graded easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where an MTB would be mandatory would be anything above that. The following features would require a MTB (or at least no gear or being on a short ride ie. mud).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gradient (up) - fine on a short ride, horrible on a long ride carrying gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drops and Jumps - wrong bike type and not worth risking damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rocks and Roots - you could do it but wrong bike type and not worth risking damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switchbacks - more difficult when on a loaded bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mud - infinitely more annoying when you can't have a shower at the end of a ride, worse if the options days away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gradient (down) - what impact will extra weight have on your brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrades wide to handle more off road riding I'd look at disc brakes and 32mm + cross tyres. Play with pressure until your happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T17:45:01.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25667" CreationDate="2014-11-18T20:19:03.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like there is an issue with the return spring rather than the cable tension.  If the brake is pulling easily and not returning, I'd guess it may have become disconnected during your removal process.  I would compare the setup of your return spring on your working brake with the one on the non working brake.  It maybe as simple as clipping the spring wire back under a tab of some sort.  It looks like on that &lt;a href=&quot;http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/fs-sram-rival-brake-set-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;model brake&lt;/a&gt; the return spring is a coil wire deal on the back of the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T20:19:03.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-18T21:33:48.907" Score="2" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a leader doberman with a front disc brake that I want to install on the rear. I know that it hasn't a rear disc brake tab, but I have found an adaptor for the caliper (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Disc-brake-bracket-frame-adaptor-3-sizes-for-140-160-180mm-rotor-free-gift-/271571281671?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;var=&amp;amp;hash=item3f3ae8e707&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Disc-brake-bracket-frame-adaptor-3-sizes-for-140-160-180mm-rotor-free-gift-/271571281671?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&amp;amp;var=&amp;amp;hash=item3f3ae8e707&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/agnkD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/agnkD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I don't know how to mount the rotor, but I have found something to mount it (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-bike-double-hub-nut-ISO-44mm-thread-Disc-brake-rotor-adaptor-mount-left-Alum-/281474670783?pt=US_Chainrings_BMX_Sprockets&amp;amp;hash=item418932a0bf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-bike-double-hub-nut-ISO-44mm-thread-Disc-brake-rotor-adaptor-mount-left-Alum-/281474670783?pt=US_Chainrings_BMX_Sprockets&amp;amp;hash=item418932a0bf&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WHobZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WHobZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But is this compatible with my rear hub? What can I do? Only to stich it with glue or there is a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have the classic Shimano gear levers. Will I have to change the shifters to install hydro disc brakes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14480" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T11:14:53.463" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T11:14:53.463" Title="Disc brakes on leader doberman which has no tabs and adaptors" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25721" CreationDate="2014-11-18T22:33:40.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do you want to install rear discs? Keep in mind a decent set of disc brakes costs as much as this entire bike. The cost of making any improvements to this model bike is almost certainly not worth it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best advise I can give is just do not go there. It results in an expensive, unreliable and often dangerous solution to a problem that does not exist in a majority of cases. If you want a better bike, sell it and buy a better bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you can put an adapter on to the frame, it affects wheel removal and makes all maintenance task twice as hard. You need a new hub - which practically means a new rear wheel. You won't be able to buy a rear wheel for less than the bike is worth second hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;90% (100% if you read Sheldon Brown) of your braking comes from your front brake. A good V Brake will brake as effectively as a low end disc brake in 90% of conditions, and on the rear wheel, won't make a significant difference in the other 10% of conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T22:33:40.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19165" CreationDate="2014-11-19T00:28:50.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can recommend Dutch brand New Looxs. They currently have two backpack panniers in their line-up (12.5L &amp;amp; 37L). I haven't used these, but I have used their Mondi Single Pannier every day for &gt;2 years and I think it's great. It's withstood very heavy rain and it still looks like a normal shoulder bag.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newlooxs.nl/en/producten/rugzakken/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.newlooxs.nl/en/producten/rugzakken/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14481" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T00:28:50.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24220" CreationDate="2014-11-19T03:06:16.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With some customization the partial change is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a rear sprocket cassette which mounts on Shimano freewheel but is designed for Campagnolo - they are available. So, you can use your old wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crankset, chain, derailleurs must be changed completely, cross-compatibility with Shimano (with chains in particular) there happens but is neither flawless neither recommended. Be careful with cranksets - your Campagnolo crankset may be incompatible with bottom bracket in the frame, therefore it would need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Levers - it is technically possible to use Shimano ones, but don't. Just for one simple reason - Campagnolo levers are more comfortable and replacing levers is not such a difficult task technically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes - these will work whatever they are, Shimano or Campa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T03:06:16.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4953" CreationDate="2014-11-19T12:54:44.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Gear-changing_Dimensions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.m.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Gear-changing_Dimensions&lt;/a&gt;  Shimano pulls roughly half the cable per shift compaired to SRAM.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14484" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T12:54:44.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-19T13:11:00.537" Score="1" ViewCount="27649" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son is new to comuting by bicycle. He brought a brand new bike and after just one week was having problems with the brakes. He only rides approximately 6–8 miles a day. Halfords advised that his brakes need replacing. Is this right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14485" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-11-19T13:18:37.857" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T18:48:49.470" Title="How long should brake pads last?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-11-19T23:55:23.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25726" CreationDate="2014-11-19T14:20:48.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Rim Brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be surprised if you managed to wreck a set of brake pads in a week (or even several hundred miles in nasty commuting weather). Off road riding (MTB, cyclocross, etc.) can chew through a set of pads within a ride or two though depending on the terrain and the technicality of the ride. If they're trying to sell you new pads on a bike (instead of possibly adjusting them), I'd be very suspicious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tell if you need new pads by either (a) the pads have been on there for a few years and the rubber has hardened up and they aren't working or (b) if its due to wear, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bkQsd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;new pads look like the top , old pads look like the bottom [the grooves should be nearly gone] (Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://softsolder.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/img_1832-worn-through-brake-pad.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[The bottom pads have a lip on them, which indicates that they weren't aligned properly to begin with. If your pads have just developed a lip, you can cut it off and use the pad as normal after re-aligning the pad.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they want to replace the whole brake, then there may be something wrong with the brake that you haven't mentioned (bent brake arm, or something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Disc Brakes: &#xA;If the bike has disc brakes, one reason why the pads may need to be replaced is if they have gotten oil on them, in which case they do need to be replaced (and the rotors cleaned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases:&#xA;You should really go back and ask them why they want to replace the brakes/brake pads to begin with. Pictures of the situation would help too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T14:20:48.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25729" CreationDate="2014-11-19T15:31:40.653" Score="2" ViewCount="845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a new carbon frame direct from a Chinese manufacturer (link to the particular frame &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icanbikes.com/html/Cross_Country/264.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).  The frame has BB86 bottom bracket. I am using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/271535479550?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&amp;amp;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SRAM Press Fit GXP BB86 Bottom Bracket&lt;/a&gt;. Outside of the frame, the bearings seem to run smoothly when I move them around with my finger. However, once I press the cups into the frame, there is a significant grinding/drag present in the bearings. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/hGxXseAHyEc?list=UUmZG_zm9PRNuiZbGkrak-Zg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; that hopefully explains better what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contacted the manufacturer of the frame, and they suggested that either the bottom bracket is broken, or has been pressed in &quot;too hard&quot;. I'm relatively sure nothing is broken with the bottom bracket itself, since I purchased it brand new. I have also removed and reinstalled the bottom bracket several times with varying levels of force, with similar results. I am using the installation washers included with the Park Tool BBT-90.3 and a long threaded rod with two nuts on either end to install the bottom bracket.  Any idea what's going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1840" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T13:53:22.473" Title="Bottom bracket bearings grinding only when installed into frame" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25728" CreationDate="2014-11-19T17:58:06.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bearings are never as buttery once they've been installed, they all feel rougher after they're put under pressure. I put GXP BB90's in my carbon 29er frame and it was the same, though not too bad. It looks like you've installed them properly, it may just be that the frame could be a bit on the tighter side. Riding the bike will loosen things up a bit though, take it for a ride then check the bearings again to see if there's any difference. Unfortunately there's really nothing else you can do about it except hope that it smooths out a little from breaking it in. Those bearings are a closed system, you can't adjust them. The only other solution is to try a different bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T17:58:06.333" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25688" CreationDate="2014-11-19T18:11:33.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know anything specifically about this model saddle, but all leather saddles share the same group of strengths and weaknesses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leather Saddles have a few drawbacks.  They require a break in period.  They require regular maintenance, more so when used in foul weather.  They tend to be heavier than most current saddle designs.  There are mixed reviews on their durability in below freezing weather.  They have advantages as well.  Eventually, when cared for properly, they will essentially become a custom saddle fitted to you.  They can be cooler than many modern designs when used in warm weather.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long and short is that they require MUCH more maintenance then other current saddle options which are essentially install and forget for potentially more comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is that if you like the &quot;look&quot; of a leather saddle, they may not be for you.  If you are aiming for the most comfortable saddle possible and willing to sacrifice some amount of time doing maintenance, they may be for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T18:11:33.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-19T18:17:50.083" Score="1" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dewBB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/whDW1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bN8rn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eb0U4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4nmmd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;![It says 'T' and under it ''Made in Austria'' in the English language, which I find strange&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dewBB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S9MdQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I identify this bicycle? I couldn't find online any manufacturer from Austria called merely 'T'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14487" LastEditorUserId="3639" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T20:12:59.267" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T11:23:59.883" Title="What brand is this vintage bicycle?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-19T18:20:19.393" Score="9" ViewCount="7412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting a trailer bike for my 3 year old (image below) but want to know if it will help or hurt progression toward him riding independently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He's amazingly fast on his Strider no-pedal balance bike but hasn't shown much interest in riding his 12&quot; &quot;real&quot; bike with training wheels.  I'm hoping a trailer bike might help him bridge the gap but in the interest of getting him to ride his real bike independently, would the trailer bike help or hurt the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVx0L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14299" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T11:06:54.457" Title="Do &quot;trailer bikes&quot; help kids learn to ride a bike on their own?" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;children&gt;&lt;kids&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25726" CreationDate="2014-11-19T18:48:49.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to give you a boundary case on how quickly pads can and do wear have a look at my current bike: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced my rear brake pads in Nov 2012.  It is now almost March 2013 - so 4 months have passed.  My rear brake pad is totally worn and riding metal on metal.  I am going to replace it next weekend.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my stats: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Months Riding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 Days/month&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.1 KM commute (each way)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work 5 days a week&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Distance due to commuting: 95 KM &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that I have ridden an equal distance running other errands, but I would think that I am over estimating the &quot;Other distance&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, Total Distance on a single pair of brake pads: between 100 and 200 KM.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Circumstances making the pads wear out faster: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Winter - The roads are sandy/snowy/slushy and wet.  I assume that (despite having fenders) that my pads are getting lots of shit on them.  I assume the rims are picking up the crap and dumping it on the pads.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intersections - I cross three major intersections on the way to work.  I (almost) always need to come to a complete stop at these and usually track stand for several minutes until the light changes.  I am wondering if locking my back brake during track stands is causing excess wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Low quality Pads - I am not sure if I bought cheap pads.  Bought them at MEC (Canadian equivalent to REI).  They only had one choice in stock.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lack of maintenance - Rather than cleaning pads or my rims on my beater winter bike, I prefer to do a full bike service once or twice a year.  I guess that if I cleaned the pads more frequently they may last longer.  I am not convinced however.  I think as soon as they hit the road they would be full of salt again.  My city loves to layer salt onto the road.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be clear I would expect pads to normally last longer.  I am merly saying that it depends on a variaty of factors including: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintenance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mileage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amount of stops/KM&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of Pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of Rims (smoother rims may make pads last longer?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other things - track stands using rear brake?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14521/v-brake-pad-lifespan/14540#14540&quot;&gt;Copied my answer from another question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T18:48:49.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25732" CreationDate="2014-11-19T18:57:03.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my 4 year old transitioned from her run bike to her first pedal bike, the one thing she struggled with was negotiating her pedals. She would try to 'run' on her pedal bike, and got frustrated real quick trying to figure out how to negotiate her pedals and cycle her feet. I think a trailer bike would be a good transition from a run bike to their first pedal bike. They already have all the balance they need from the run bike—they don't need training wheels—they just need to learn how to cycle the pedals (and brake/backwards pedal). Trailer bikes don't give them an opportunity to do anything else but cycle. I think a bit of riding on the trailer will give your kid the confidence he needs to hop on his own pedal bike &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; the training wheels. The trailer bike will give him an opportunity to develop some muscle memory as well as give you a little feel for how strong he's getting at pedaling and braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T18:57:03.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25688" CreationDate="2014-11-19T19:23:45.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the BLB Mosquito it is marketed as a &quot;race&quot; saddle which in the world of leather saddles seems to be short hand for narrow with the expectation that your cockpit setup has lots of handle bar drop (handle bars below saddle). Depending on the width of your sit bones, these saddles can be uncomfortable in a more upright position, as I have learned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;BLB Mosquito Race - side view&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2iZ4v.png&quot; alt=&quot;BLB Mosquito Race&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Brooks B15 Swallow&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BBL Mosquito also looks remarkably similar the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/catalogue-and-shop/saddles/road+%26+mtb/B15+Swallow+Chrome/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brooks B15 Swallow saddle&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVN3H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brooks B15&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an owner of a B15 I can must advise you to carefully consider this saddle decision as it is really designed for race bikes. I am relatively average in stature and on the lighter side for weight.  I found this type of saddle was only comfortable in a racing position (i.e., 5-10 cm of drop on the handle bars).  Anything higher and my pelvis would rotate enough that the my sit bones would strike the metal rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now everyone's anatomy is different, including sit bone width.  But for more general applications and for a more diverse array of body types, I think you should consider a wider saddle such as a Brooks B17.  Either that or measure the width of the BLB and compare it to the Brooks B17 to ensure the saddle is a bit wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as build quality, I haven't the foggiest about BLB!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Leather Saddle Caveat&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most seem to be drawn to leather saddles for their looks. I am so-so on the looks, and a much bigger proponent on the comfort, once you choose a model that is appropriate to the application.  This is where all the marketing speak has let us down.  The descriptions on  how the saddles can be expected to fit is basically non-existing.  This is unfortunate as the saddles can be quite uncomfortable for some application/body type combinations due to the fact the saddles work as a hammock and use a solid rail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where modern saddles can be better as they can be expected to provide adequate comfort to a larger array of body sizes due to the use of padding. That said, once you get the kinks worked out, in 15+ years of competition and 20+ years of cycling, I have never found a more comfortable solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T19:23:45.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25732" CreationDate="2014-11-19T19:49:45.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Discussions of parenting is always dangerous, but what is the hurry?  Children don't understand work motifs (i.e., do A, so you can accomplish B) and seem to learn best in play motifs (or that is at least what my partner keeps hammering into my thick scull). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am in the opposite position, I wish my 3-year-old would rider her strider bike more as we used to blaze trails together, but she is obsessed with pedals now and being like daddy, so we awkwardly ride along on flat paths. I do it because she loves it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think as the comments suggest (including your own), keeping things fun should be the objective rather than any explicit goal. He finds the trail-a-bike concept interesting, then maybe give it a go, if not then I would suggest letting it go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never seen a 20 year old on a strider yet!  Eventually, he will outgrow it and need to transition to a pedal bike if he wants to keep riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T19:49:45.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25738" CreationDate="2014-11-19T19:52:17.693" Score="2" ViewCount="903" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else had issues with bent (slow deformation over time) metal rails on the saddles they have used? I previously had three or four saddles that all ended up tilted over to one side and accordingly less comfortable than when they were new.  I have since switched to only carbon railed saddles and have not had any issues.  However, I am now wondering if it might have been a brand issue (I can't recall if the set of saddles in question was all from one manufacturer or not, but it's a possibility) or this has occurred with other riders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The head mechanic at my shop claimed it was &quot;just me&quot; and I do have an ugly stroke, but I am wondering if others out there have experienced this or if I should have been blaming the manufacturer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T19:58:08.687" Title="Saddles and Bent Metal Rails" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25737" CreationDate="2014-11-19T20:07:54.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not just had them bend I have had them fracture. &#xA;I took my saddle to the shop thinking they would say &quot;wow how did that happen&quot; and the response I got was it happens all the time - that saddle is a few years old. &#xA;Aluminum will fatigue - low end seats have a limited life. &#xA;A steel or titanium seat does not suffer from fatigue (will not at nearly the level of aluminum). &#xA;Carbon also is reported not to fatigue but I don't have any experience with carbon railed saddles. &#xA;Inspect your rails on a regular basis for deformation or cracks. &#xA;If you go out the back and land your bumm on the wheel because the rail fractured it gets a lot easier to spend $100 on a saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the seat position was also a factor as I had the seat all the way back.  What that does is create a longer lever from the back of seat to where the rail is clamped.  I also put an offset seat post on the bike so I got what I consider a better clamp position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7C0lz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;BrokenSaddle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-21T19:58:08.687" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T19:58:08.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23853" CreationDate="2014-11-19T20:41:23.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; (or &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; + 1) where &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; is the number of riding styles you are currently and actively pursing is reasonable.  The +1 formula is optional for people who race fairly seriously.  So if you like to ride cross-country mtn occasionally, but seriously race road and commute, I'd say your &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; was 3 with the +1 option of an additional road bike for racing.  I recently sold a full downhill rig because it hadn't been used in two years and I didn't see myself getting back to shuttle running crowd in my area.  &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; = &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; - 1 for me.  I have a nice full suspension all mountain rig that may go the same way at the end of next summer if it doesn't see any use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started leaning toward a serious collection years ago, I thought an ideal number was 7.  I actually had that at one point, but have now realized, having some really nice ride hanging around that I haven't used in two years only depresses me.  On the spousal front, it's much easier to justify a new bike when I can claim that I rode every bike I own within the last year.  I obtain a brief period of joy every time sell an unused bike (or two) and turn it into a new bike that I will ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T20:41:23.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25732" CreationDate="2014-11-19T21:22:47.533" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;He is 3..... he will do what he wants to, when and how he wants. I had a lot of trouble getting my boy off trainers (We did not go don the balance bike path). After many attempts involving removing them and putting them back on, I gave up and decided when he is ready (or old enough his peers laugh at him), he will want them removed. One day he just came up to me and asked me to take them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose you battles carefully - only pick ones you will win, and only fight those that must be won. This is not one of those battles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So should you get a trail along bike? If its to get him riding quicker/better/faster absolutely not. if its because its a fun way to spend time together going at pace you can both enjoy then its a great idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are towbar attachments that clip to  a standard bike, lift the front wheel and give a similar effect to the tow along - but if you boy wants to go solo for a bit, unclip and away he goes.  When/if he get to tired to do more riding, clip him back in and you do the work. refer &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2188/what-should-i-look-for-in-a-trailer-bike-tag-along-bike-for-a-child/2196#2196&quot;&gt;What should I look for in a &amp;quot;trailer bike&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;tag-along&amp;quot; bike for a child?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T21:22:47.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-19T23:51:00.343" Score="1" ViewCount="4530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on an old Muji 3-speed commuter bicycle which uses an internal Shimano gear hub, and I recently (3 months ago) got my bike chain changed by my LBS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For about 2 weeks I felt the chain would &quot;catch&quot;, the way it feels when you're trying to change gears on a bike with derailleurs, and last night on my way home, the chain broke. Is this because the chain didn't fit well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10481" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T17:31:53.793" Title="What could cause the bicycle chain to break?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25741" CreationDate="2014-11-20T00:26:10.960" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;3-speed drive trains should naturally have a straight chain line and lots of room for the chain, which is typically wider. So I doubt that the chain is too wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the LBS did not correctly insert the chain pin, when reassembling.   If this was the case the pin could be protrude on one side and potentially catch on various drivetrain components.  Continually catching will stress the chain. If the protrusion is significant enough to catch, on the opposite side of the protrusion the pin may not be sufficiently inserted into the outer link plate. Eventually the catching could cause the partially inserted pin to pop out of place, breaking the chain, leaving you stranded. Check where the chain broke to see if the pin at the break point is reasonably flush to the outer link plate or protruding by a large amount on the side where the pin is still in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Speculation Warning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is of course rampant speculation, as I have no pictures to go off of, but is the only logical mechanism that comes to mind.  (And it is something I have actually done and can verify can happen!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2014-11-20T17:31:53.793" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T17:31:53.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25741" CreationDate="2014-11-20T13:05:17.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you change the chain you have to change the sprocket also. They wear at an equal rate and a new chain will not fit an old sprocket. The front sprocket is usually ok because the load and wear is spread over a greater area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9188" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T13:05:17.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="457" CreationDate="2014-11-20T13:32:10.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a visual supplement to @darkcanuck's excellent description: This image (105 rear derailleur) shows the barrel adjuster, and how clockwise rotation will pull the derailleur toward smaller rear cogs, while counterclockwise (blue) moved the chain towards the larger rings. So, for instance, if you're slipping down a cog, counterclockwise will snug things back up to where you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bkKuN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;visual depiction of rear derailleur adjustment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10981" LastEditorUserId="10981" LastEditDate="2014-11-20T22:39:43.783" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T22:39:43.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25667" CreationDate="2014-11-20T15:02:45.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I think you are saying is there is dead slack in the cable when you pull the brake lever.  If this is the case, you could be correct about the issue being with the cable itself.  You can try putting Triflow (or some other light lube) into the housing by having it run down the cable, this will make any cable assembly feel better.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source of the issue could be the caliper itself.  Try putting some Triflow (or other light lube) on the pivot points of the caliber and work the caliper through its range of motion with your hands.  &lt;strong&gt;THIS IS WHAT SOLVED THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY ULTEGRA CALIPER&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13925" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T15:02:45.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25741" CreationDate="2014-11-20T15:18:44.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chains usually only break when lateral force is applied to them. To have one break on a single speed drivetrain is fairly rare. I'm gunna give your LBS the benefit of a doubt and assume they installed the chain correctly. The problem with changing just your chain is that it's only one piece of a system that wears as a unit. As your chain wears it actually gets longer, this is a result of the friction from the pins taking metal off of the inside of the bushing in each link, which lengthens the measurable distance between each pin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKS2E.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, the cog starts to wear on the pull side of each tooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of an excessively worn cog:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bvjb6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you put a new chain on a worn cog they won't necessarily mesh. The new chain will have some &quot;wiggle room&quot; to slide around in and possibly even slide laterally enough that one of the sharpened teeth can pick up a link, which on a single speed can put enough force on the one side of the link to pop the pin out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question for you would be, how worn was the cog? If the cog is fine, then how loose was your chain? A loose chain can just as easily jump the teeth and break. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T15:18:44.040" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14109" CreationDate="2014-11-20T16:56:37.593" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any snorkeler will tell you... Saliva is a great anti-fog coating for the inside of your goggles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14494" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T16:56:37.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25659" CreationDate="2014-11-20T17:10:20.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The freewheel may not be completely bad, it's typical for older ones to get gummed up inside and the ratchet pawls inside to be stuck open.  Sounds like what you've got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the link above to Sheldon Brown's site in Kennah's answer above, check the section on &lt;strong&gt;Lubricating Freewheels&lt;/strong&gt;.  It's pretty simple to do this, no special tools or disassembly required.  But it is easier with the wheel off and held horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you should consider replacing the freewheel.  You can get a new Shimano freewheel pretty cheap and it will have more modern &quot;ramped&quot; teeth that will make shifting much smoother.  If the old one is 5-speed but you have older shifters that don't &quot;click&quot; into gears you can replace it with a 6-speed like MF-TZ20&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14495" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T17:10:20.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14109" CreationDate="2014-11-20T18:47:22.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stopped trying to use glasses/goggles long ago and have gotten away with it because we rarely have wind here when it gets cold.  However, I have started using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.coldavenger.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cold Avenger&lt;/a&gt; when the temperature drops below 0F.  I find that it saves my lungs on long rides.  After looking at their advertising, it is supposed to keep goggles/glasses from fogging as well (directs your exhalations away).  I've tried my sunglasses a few times with my mask and had no fogging with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T18:47:22.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25757" CreationDate="2014-11-20T20:29:09.880" Score="2" ViewCount="441" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today in receipt of a Topeak &quot;Pressure-Rite Schrader Valve Adapter&quot; to inflate my airspring fork, thinking it would work perfectly with my Topeak &quot;JoeBlow Pro&quot; floor pump. It doesn't work very well, as the pressure is not read at all accurately. Does anybody have experience using these two products, or similar? Or will I have to buy a specialist shock pump to accurately inflate my airspring fork? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks for any insights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14496" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T22:02:46.570" Title="Inflating airspring fork with Topeak products" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;topeak&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25750" CreationDate="2014-11-20T20:51:26.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A floor pump like Joe Blow has a massive piston, and the problem I can see is not about reading the pressure, but actually pumping such small amounts of air for this to be accurate (although the manometer may also not be too precise...). Technically you can use this, but as you mentioned it will not be accurate and there's not much you can do about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't have to buy a specialist shock pump, however I'd recommend it. Hand pumps may be good enough, but you have to choose the right one, i.e. the one that can fit around the valve (there's often not much space around them), and that can stand high pressures, especially in case of rear shocks may be over 200psi (screw-on heads are preferable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also three features that put a shock pump in advantage, based on my experience with a few:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are thin and it's easy to pump up accurately even very small air chambers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of these pumps have a button that allows to release small amounts of air if we pumped a bit too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This button also prevents air from leaking from the valve while unscrewing the pump head.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastEditorUserId="14321" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T22:02:46.570" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T22:02:46.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25754" CreationDate="2014-11-20T22:25:03.597" Score="2" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a city bike with a Nexus 8-speed and I'd like to rebuild the rear wheel with an Alfine 8-speed. The only hubs I can find all seem to be disc mount hubs. My city bike has v-brakes. Is it ok to use the &quot;disc mount&quot; hub on a non-disc wheel? The description seems to say &quot;disc brake compatible&quot;, which sort of implies it's possible but not required to use the mount, but I would like to make sure before purchasing the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4514" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T22:32:35.570" Title="Can you use an Alfine 8-speed &quot;disc&quot; hub with a non-disc wheel?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25753" CreationDate="2014-11-20T22:32:35.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the wheel is built with the appropriate rim (i.e., a rim with a braking surface) you should be fine. The hub simply has the mounts for a disc brake, one does not have to be mounted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T22:32:35.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20885" CreationDate="2014-11-21T01:05:26.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/20886/9166&quot;&gt;Batman's&lt;/a&gt; answer, here is a good picture of an ispec-ready shifter attach to the brake lever's clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gY06I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ispec shifter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a traditional shifter using its own clamp (SL-M591) taken from my potato camera&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MuwGW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;non ispec&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9166" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T01:05:26.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25762" CreationDate="2014-11-21T11:45:09.873" Score="16" ViewCount="8403" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of pretty good answers in &lt;a href=&quot;/q/1256&quot;&gt;How to make a cargo trailer?&lt;/a&gt;.  After looking at those, at &lt;a href=&quot;/a/25293&quot;&gt;the answer to What are the safety concerns of a high vs a low mount trailer hitch?&lt;/a&gt; and doing some other research, it seems that heavy trailers have significant safety issues around braking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the references I found so far indicate solutions that involve disconnecting the bike's rear brake and connecting the cable to trailer brakes.  This solution has issues of its own (mainly around not going to the trouble).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is common solution often used on rental automotive trailers, called a surge brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KKrhT.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Surge Brake image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the tow vehicle slows down, the trailer pushes against the vehicle and that force applies the trailer brakes. In automotive solutions this is done with hydraulics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After thinking about this a while, and noticing there are many inexpensive used kids bikes with manually applied brakes integrated in the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any proven approaches to using surge braking on bike trailers, either with used bike parts or with new purpose constructed parts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14181" LastEditorUserId="23748" LastEditDate="2016-12-02T23:01:46.230" LastActivityDate="2019-02-16T23:37:10.317" Title="How to build surge brakes on bike trailer?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25750" CreationDate="2014-11-21T16:40:15.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do not try to use a floor pump to inflate your shocks.&lt;/strong&gt; Use a shock pump - &lt;em&gt;&quot;Use the right tool for the right job.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; What you're attempting to do is like trying to fill a water balloon from a fire hydrant. If I had ever attempted to use a floor pump to pressurize a fork in any of the shops I've worked in, I would have got slapped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pressure will not read accurately because the volume of air you require is probably less than the total volume offered in one pump from you JoeBlow Pro. You need to add air in smaller increments at high pressure. Either buy a shock pump, borrow one from a friend, or get your LBS to pump up your fork for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T16:40:15.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25756" CreationDate="2014-11-21T16:45:38.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a comments you add that the bike and trailer / dolly must fit in canoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dolly implies to me that you plan to use the canoe as the frame.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With a dolly / surge brake design I see a few problems:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now you have a bit of hardware to attach the surge hitch to the canoe.  In addition to the surge and brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A dolly design must exert braking force so it has to be a significant&#xA;dolly and firmly attached to the canoe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In order to act as the trailer it is bottom down and will collect&#xA;rain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if you get the surge brake working you are going to take the hit&#xA;on the bicycle before it kicks in so it is still going to push you&#xA;over and then when it kicks in it will pull you over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a trike where you take everything but the canoe on the trike and now trailer the canoe upside down with a light weight dolly.  No brakes, hitch is a simple pin, and a lighter weight dolly.  And it would take less equipment to attach a dolly on the gunnel side.  When you brake a trike the canoe would not push you over.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T16:45:38.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25737" CreationDate="2014-11-21T18:14:34.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had Ti rails break on me on a particular seat brand that i no longer use. I am a heavy mountain bike users:  lots of climbs, jumps, and DH. Its not just you. I suggest the seats with Cromo rails. So far I have never had any WTB saddles break on me that have cromo rails for example. Forget the TI and Aluminum, Cromo is also better for riders 200 lbs+ and the weight increase is minimal in such small rails! You can most certainly blame the manufacturer on that one IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T18:14:34.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25756" CreationDate="2014-11-21T20:31:14.387" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this has ever been done before for a lightweight bike trailer, which would mean &lt;strong&gt;no, there aren't any proven approaches to using surge brakes on a bicycle trailer&lt;/strong&gt;, but I've got some ideas... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be very impractical to use any current trailer surge brake options on a bicycle trailer, they'd be too clunky, heavy and wouldn't be compatible with bike hitches. An alternate solution for braking would probably be more practical (extra lever on the handlebars), and less likely to fail, but I'll address your question as you've asked it; which means we're talking about engineering something completely new. Things you have to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trailer&lt;/strong&gt; - I think it's important to start with the trailer you plan on using,  then think about how to modify it. I recommend something with a hitch like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wicycle.com/index.php/products/boat-trailers/wike-woody-wagon-canoe-bicycle-trailer#specifications-tab&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Woody Wagon Canoe Bicycle Trailer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tc99i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes&lt;/strong&gt; - Obviously you're going to have to go with hydraulic disc brakes, because cable brakes would have &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; too much stretch in them. The first thing you have to figure out is how to mount your brakes on the tralier. The ideal solution would be to buy some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H19xovXTMD8&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=1m55s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chariot disk hubs&lt;/a&gt; like they use on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thule.com/en/es/products/active-with-kids/multifunctional-child-carriers/single-child-carriers/thule-chariot-cx-1-blue-_-10101323&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CX-1 trailer&lt;/a&gt;. You'll also need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/brake_spares/trialtech_sport_hose_splitter/c111p11623.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hose splitter&lt;/a&gt; to operate both callipers with one lever.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Actuation&lt;/strong&gt; - This is going to be your biggest hurdle, and really what your question is all about. You could easily mount a stock brake lever to your hitch (likely with a customized lever), you just need to come up with a method of operating it with a custom made &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=surge%20brake%20actuator&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1582&amp;amp;bih=974&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=VJJvVJG-DY-zogSP2IGABg&amp;amp;ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;surge brake actuator&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Here's my concept for what I think would work best:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is obviously a very simple illustration - use &lt;strong&gt;parallel hinges&lt;/strong&gt; to 'hang' the trailer hitch from a receiver mounted to your seat post. Put the brake lever on the receiver, and let &lt;strong&gt;pendulum&lt;/strong&gt; action from the momentum of the trailer actuate the brake lever.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zeVKf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll of course have to take wheel and cable clearance into consideration, and you'll have to calculate what hinge length will give you effective actuation, and actually connect the pendulum part to the lever in some way–and other fine details, etc... But theoretically, I think this would be the easiest, simplest, and most effective method of putting surge brakes on a bike trailer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Updated Design:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some good comments gave me some ideas for already improving on my concept. I moved the brake to the trailer side of the parallel hinges–which offers more tire clearance and keeps it out of the mud coming off the tire–and I simplified it by actually making one of the hinges double as the brake lever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PKqxH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is to be sure the wheels are secured to the canoe well enough that they don't get pulled out from underneath when the brake engages and rip your hydraulic hose out of the callipers/lever. Either a long bar to connect the hitch to wheels, or a long strap to prevent the wheels from sliding back could be necessary if the trailer wheels can't be adequately secured to the bottom of the canoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="23748" LastEditDate="2016-12-02T23:00:17.307" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T23:00:17.307" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25756" CreationDate="2014-11-21T23:07:23.573" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer to your question is yes, people have built surge brakes and they do work. Specifically, I have built one, but I called it an inertia brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.geek.nz/mozbike/build/big-trailer/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; has some notes and photos. The mechanism was fairly simple and robust, a telescoping towing arm with a couple of standard brake cables leading to V brakes on the front wheels of the trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VW7d3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EdW8w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major caveat in my opinion is that by the time the trailer is heavy enough to need these brakes it's too heavy to be towed safely behind a two wheeled bicycle. I say 'two wheeled' because in many countries legally speaking a bicycle has &quot;two or more wheels&quot; - so to a lawyer my quad bike is a bicycle. I built that trailer for the quad and would not suggest towing it behind a two wheeler. Mostly because if you fall off the bicycle the trailer brakes will not be applied so the trailer will roll straight over the top of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also find &lt;a href=&quot;//bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18440/does-anyone-sell-bicycle-trailers-with-brakes&quot;&gt;&quot;does anyone sell bicycle trailers with brakes?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; useful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="23748" LastEditDate="2016-12-02T23:01:21.070" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T23:01:21.070" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-22T22:06:25.763" Score="1" ViewCount="1071" Body="&lt;p&gt;To flesh out the question with more (hopefully useful) information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average speed of this particular local flat criterium race is 47 kph (achievable with a cadence of 90rpm in 46-11) and a peak speed of 58.3 kph (achievable with a cadence of 115 rpm in 46-11). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this instance it would be my first crit race, my expectations would be to not get dropped. I have raced cyclo cross before and consider myself to have a poor sprint. If I was to attempt to win a race like this I think I would have to be on my own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;whilst it seems achievable I assume I am missing something key here and there is a good reason why 53-39 on the front appears to be the most common gearing in racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T05:20:27.430" Title="Is running 46t front chain ring with an 11t on the back such a huge disadvantage for flat cat 4 crits?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24440" CreationDate="2014-11-22T22:09:54.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;thats a beautiful bike i had a 1962bottechia with the exact components as well as the location of serial numbers also on most vintage bikes that. have stamped markings around center of rear hub you may notice two small numbers seperate from any other markings stamped into center those two lonely numbers are the last two digits of the year it was built thats if those rims are original for that frame&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14512" LastActivityDate="2014-11-22T22:09:54.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25764" CreationDate="2014-11-23T01:06:32.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, I think most racers have a tendency to be over-geared, but in your case you may find yourself under-geared.  That said, if it is your first crit, just race what you have, the experience is the most important thing. I am also a bit suspect of the win off the front by a first-timer strategy.  If you have the opportunity to win, take it, but don't be disappointed if the race turns out to be much different than you are currently envisioning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, some reasons why you may be under-geared:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Efficiency&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a chain drive, Big-Small gearing combinations are not as efficient as Big-Big.   You could be putting your drive train losses as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp52-2001.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;high as 5%&lt;/a&gt; running such a small gear on the rear cassette.  I suspect you will also be racing a cyclocross bike (which will be a disadvantage), the efficiency loss will be another disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Surges&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pacing of a crit is not as constant as a time trial or cyclocross race.   Often there are very fast surges, and your peak speed can be quite fast if you choose to close the gap between groups. I am not sure where you got the peak speed of 58.3 kph (a friend I assume).  Speeds can change from year to year and by rider strategy.  Peak speeds of 60-70 kph are not entirely uncommon, especially if the course has a downhill section or there is a strong tailwind on the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A Note on Strategy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding off the front on your own in a crit is a pretty tall task.  Doing it at an average speed of 48 kph is pretty monumental.  That would put you into the realm of a top-end professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My honest advice is to skip this strategy altogether.  Rather focus on your position with in the peloton, keep moving up, and stay near the front, but don't ride at the front or off the front. Your goal should be not to do anymore work than is absolutely required to keep a good position.  Don't chase down breaks or initiate breaks.  Wait... as painful as that sounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Count your laps, know when you're 10 laps out, then start moving to the front.  Sit in until you are two corners out, then get ready to go, follow anyone moving up. Don't do anything more until you are 400 m out.  Then give everything you got and see where you finish, you might surprise yourself.  90% of sprinting is positioning, timing and reading the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Standard Gearing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard gearing is 53/39 on the front, simply because the speeds are much faster in a group than on your own.  That said, even in Cat 1/2 I only ever rarely used a 53x11, even in crits where the speeds can often average 55+ kph on faster courses.  A compact gearing (50/34) will likely be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2014-11-23T05:20:27.430" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T05:20:27.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25768" CreationDate="2014-11-23T02:17:00.717" Score="1" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;My training went up significantly between half-iron events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was improvement in the swim and run. But no improvement in the bike... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact I could say I did worse because there was little wind and I used aero-bars and saw the same time for the bike. Not sure why I would not see improvement on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my first Half Ironman I did: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;swim 43:00 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bike 3:00:00(much wind; no aero-bars)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;run  2:30:00&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Training:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I biked only 5 times that year, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ran 3 times and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;swam maybe once a week for a number of months leading up to this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A year later(same event course): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;swim 37:00 {6 min improvement}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bike 3:00:00 (no wind; used aero-bars) {no improvement}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;run  2:00:00 {1/2 hour improvement}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Training:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Completed 5 full marathons between previous Half Ironman and this one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swimming was a little more and under good instruction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Biked at least once a month and then some come this event.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7605" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-11-23T02:56:14.277" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T04:00:51.633" Title="Why am I not seeing improvement in my bike split time?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25767" CreationDate="2014-11-23T04:00:51.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at your times, your times on the bike leg are below the levels you are setting in the other legs. But given that you are barely training for the bike leg, your times are pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.runtri.com/2011/06/how-much-time-does-it-take-to-finish_27.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long does it take to finish a Half Ironman Triathlon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer, based on our analysis of more than 67,000 finishers in 40 Half Ironman triathlons: about 6 hours, on average.  Swim 1.2 miles in 45 minutes, Bike 56 miles in 3:00, and Run 13.1 miles in 2:15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, your swim time is better, your bike time is the same, and you run time is much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike legs are 3 hour for 90 km; an average of 30 kph. Since the effort required for a given speed varies as the square (or some say cube) of the speed, riding 10% faster will take 20% to 30% more effort and energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To deliver that, you need to train your aerobic capacity to deliver oxygen for your muscles, and you need to train the muscles you'll use for the bike leg to deliver at that level for 3+ hours. These capabilities will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be improved by riding once a month - they will barely be &lt;em&gt;maintained&lt;/em&gt; if you ride once per week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everybody will have their recommendations, reasons, and ideas. From my experience training with athletes of various levels, including one full Ironman competitor, here is a fairly conservative plan. For you own plan, work backwards from the race date. Work out how, and how much, and how long to taper. Work out what level of training you should be doing at the peak. Plan variation to keep it interesting. Set goals to measure you performance. Build up slowly to avoid over training and injury. And talk to a lot of people about it. &lt;em&gt;A specialized coach would be best&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the off-season, you should be riding a minimum of once per week for a minimum of 2 hours. About 4 months out from the race, that should step up to twice per week, with one longer ride and one shorter. Gradually increase the longer ride to about 4 hours at a lower intensity than your race pace to build endurance, and on the short ride warm up &lt;em&gt;thoroughly&lt;/em&gt; before riding at race pace then cool down thoroughly. Gradually increase the period at race pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two months out from the race, increase to riding 3 times per week. Continue the casual endurance ride as before, but increase the race pace ride gradually until the fast section is 2 hours. Six weeks before the race and 4 weeks before the race, push the race pace training ride so that you do the full course at race pace. The day after every race pace ride, do a short &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20629/what-is-a-recovery-ride/20630#20630&quot;&gt;recovery ride&lt;/a&gt;. Be aware that people have differing opinions on the topic of recovery rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be very careful not to over-train. Listen to your body. If you need a break, then do it. If you are getting injuries or feel jaded, back off. Assuming all is going well, 3 weeks out from the race is when it's time to get serious. A week earlier, you did the full course. This week do it again at race pace. The endurance ride becomes the previous race pace ride, and the recovery ride is also longer - there is more recovery to do. And now taper - reduce the length of the rides over the next week by 20%, by another 20% in the next week, and another 20% in the race week. Again, people have differing advice on tapering, so do your research - certainly some would suggest that another week of tapering would be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T04:00:51.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2014-11-23T10:56:17.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In reading the responses to this question, I noticed something missing, which hand should be used with the front brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, experienced or skilled cyclists use the front brake 95% or better all of the time, the rear brake is only a drag brake and only using it (locking it up) will cause you to skid and wear down your rear tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use to race/train with my club years ago and also ride with a touring club. The way your brakes “should be setup” are, with your dominant hand (in my case my right hand/brake lever) going to the front brake. This is because your dominant hand has more control on modulating the pressure needed to stop safely with your front brake. The “last thing” you want to do is just jam on the front brake (and go over the handlebars), and this could happen if you are using your “non-dominant hand” on your front brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have raced on the velodrome (no brakes and a fixed gear), and also rode flat ground and hills on my fixed gear with only a front brake (right hand). Some of these hills were steep hills, if any of you know Mt. Hamilton in San Jose CA.  And I have never felt that I was in a dangerous situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been told, that in Europe a bicycle race mechanic will not work on your bicycle if your brakes are not set-up correctly, that is - your dominant hand going to the front brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, when you buy a bicycle at a bicycle shop, the brakes will be set up with the right brake lever going to the rear brake (most everyone is right handed), as I understand it, this is due to the Consumer Product Safety Commission - They would rather have someone who is “inexperienced” slide on their rear wheel, than lock up the front wheel and go over the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can not and will not tell you how to set up your brakes, and for someone who is just starting out ridding. It is better to play safe and use your rear brake while you are learning and gaining experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have some decent miles under your belt, and have learned the in’s and out’s of your bicycle, you can try moving your brakes so your dominant hand/brake lever is going to your front brake. If this just does not feel right for you, by all means play it safe and use your rear brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14516" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T10:56:17.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10918" CreationDate="2014-11-23T13:21:09.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often thinking about this phrase while braking and can never agree with it. Without any doubt using both brakes provides more efficient braking, even when braking down the mountain. I can confirm it empirically every time when braking by one hand, when, say, right hand is busy eating a banana. Braking by both hands is faster and gives more control over the bicycle, it feels like you have more threshold to balance until brakes block the wheel. Sorry for not having any more scientific explanation, but empirical proof is enough, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern brake sets will give less power to the back by design and there's little danger to block back when braking with both brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T13:21:09.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-23T17:53:41.870" Score="5" ViewCount="1260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike with a front brake that wears a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of brake pad when I ride downhill every day. I lose 900ft in elevation on steep grades with lots of stop signs and traffic lights. On top of that, it rains a decent amount and the rim brakes are terrible in that weather. I don't trust them downhill in the rain. Sometimes I just walk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feather the brakes going downhill, because otherwise I'm too fast to stop quickly for an errant car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'd be nice to not constantly replace pads, and have powerful stopping. How can I make this constant downhill more pleasant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14519" LastActivityDate="2020-08-16T20:17:19.227" Title="Adjustment to road bike brakes for high grade downhill" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25771" CreationDate="2014-11-23T17:57:24.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Switch your brake pads - a harder compound will wear less, but be less effective at braking. Make sure to clean your rims for rim brakes as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Use your brakes less and get more comfortable with higher speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) Change your brakes (some brake models brake better than others, even if you're using the same type of brakes, e.g. caliper brakes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T17:57:24.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25771" CreationDate="2014-11-23T20:32:54.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at installing Cantilever brakes- larger pads so you can retain the same stopping power and increase life, at the expense of a few grams of weight.  Cantilever brakes will also help in the wet due large pad (more surface area). These are the preferred brakes for tandems and tourers - you may have trouble getting decent quality ones these days. As I understand, V brakes are not compatible with road bikes without adapters and are not always as successful as you would think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discs would be the ultimate wet weather improvement and provide the stopping power you want, but I would caution against hydraulics for such big downhills. They have been known overheat and boil the fluid - you get instant total failure when it happens. Apart form this, you need new forks and wheel (minimum of a hub), and probably new levers, so the cost may be prohibitive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T20:32:54.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25771" CreationDate="2014-11-23T20:35:38.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can replace the pads (as stated elsewhere).  There are a lot of variations in pad material, and a faster-wearing pad is not necessarily a better braking pad.  Unfortunately, it's hard to find a good selection of pads, and even harder to get good info on which is suitable to which conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can use your rear brake more, especially for speed control, and save the front for more &quot;serious&quot; efforts.  When I'm on a downhill (rarely as steep/long as yours, though) I like to alternate between front and rear brakes for speed control, and I do it more in bursts rather than with steady pressure.  I'm not sure if this is &quot;approved&quot; technique, but it's what makes sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can install a second set of calipers.  This is often done on tandems, and can be done simply on some bikes/with great difficulty on others.  (Of course, you'd need to figure out how to operate the extra set, without growing a third hand, and you do have to worry a little about the rim overheating.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can get disk brakes (though from the war stories I hear here it's not clear that they are really any better in such a situation).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T20:35:38.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25780" CreationDate="2014-11-23T23:29:49.717" Score="6" ViewCount="7220" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any rules/tips to choosing a handlebar for your bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in a big city, and I've seen fixies with really, really narrow handlebars (presumably to avoid hitting pedestrians?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally like the way wide handlebars feel (especially when riding fast), and I'm wondering what, if any disadvantages there might be to having a ~28&quot; bar on a non-sus mtb for city riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T00:42:49.553" Title="Choosing a handlebar width" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25778" CreationDate="2014-11-23T23:32:49.307" Score="0" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to build a road bike for 5-10km transportation purposes and I want to build it part by part because I only earn $30 to $60 per semi-month (monthly bills are included, that's what I earn exactly). This is my first time to build a bike. I used a BMX-type bike, given by my uncle, before but it was used by my cousin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also want it to have a disc brake. I heard it costs higher price but low maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drive terrains are asphalt, with 50meter 30-40 degrees slope (highest possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions where do I start? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14284" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T23:49:56.763" Title="Guidelines for building a road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;&lt;new-bicycle-assembly&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25777" CreationDate="2014-11-23T23:43:38.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A decent disc system is quite expensive - you need disc ready hubs, disc ready fork+frame and the actual disc brakes. A cheap/medium cost set of rim brakes (V-brakes) will typically perform as well if not better than cheaper disc brakes (and the maintenance is not hard). Thus, budget minded people &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; avoid disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for building a bike piece by piece, you'll typically end up spending more than buying a bike whole. Also, if you don't have experience with bicycles, you won't know which parts will fit together to give a suitable geometry for you (thus, buying a pre-built bike is a good idea) -- you need to know about standover, effective top tube length, all the angles involved, the Q factor you get with the choice of bb+cranks, etc which is hard to spec without experience or having a bike which is similar to what you intend to buy. Generally though, at the end of the day, you're going to pick parts based on your measurements and goals and then matching standards for each part. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park tool&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; are good places to start for looking on how to build a bike. Note that assembling a bike also requires some special tools (cassette tools, etc.), so you will be spending money there too. Thus, I do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; recommend you build a bike part by part. (*)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're on a budget, you're better off buying a used bike (plus, you can test the fit and everything). For high slopes, you want low gearing (big cogs in the back and not too big things in the front). A used mountain bike with slick tires may be a good option (you don't need suspension on the road either, and this would make a good commuter and be cheaper than most road bikes -- think 80s Specialized Hardrock or similar). Also, your slope estimate is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_%28slope%29#Roads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;probably quite a bit off&lt;/a&gt; (20 degrees is quite extreme and rare to begin with!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) If you live near a bike co-op, they might be able to give you access to the tools and people who can help you there, but it will take time and generally requires some experience anyway. Thus, I still stand by the idea that you should buy a used bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-11-23T23:49:56.763" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T23:49:56.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25776" CreationDate="2014-11-23T23:52:49.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, your handlebar's diameter where the stem clamps onto it has to be compatible with your stem. Your brake levers and shifters (if any) should also be able to clamp onto the bar (this also means matching diameters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, its completely up to personal choice. Go with something that makes you feel comfortable and happy. I do have fairly wide bars on a commuter mountain bike I use -- I find them very helpful in snow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really narrow handlebars on fixies are primarily fashion (as everything else on fixies are) -- you could have significantly wider bars than the ones you're talking about and still not hit anything more than you would have due to your body width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T23:52:49.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25776" CreationDate="2014-11-24T00:42:49.553" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's unpack that a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first consideration is control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do wider or narrower bars give better control? Narrow bars mean that small movements cause larger direction changes, wider bars mean you have to move them more to steer. The amount you need to turn depends on your speed. If you're doing 30 kph (~20 mph) then you need only small steering adjustments, but if you're weaving through stationary traffic you could be making much larger turns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a road bike where you'd often be riding faster, it turns out that the most comfortable width is around the riders shoulder width. But you'll notice that roadies tend to have less fine control at low speeds. On MTB's, people often want wider bars to get more control in heavy conditions. Wider bars also give better control at low speed. So the minimum width for a MTB has the inner edge of the grips at about armpit width. As a matter of preference you can go wider, but as you do you should shorten your headstem to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next consideration is traffic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you the kind of rider (like me) who rides through gaps between things (cars, cyclists, poles)? If so, then narrower is better. (I suggest to &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; ride close to our between pedestrians, they are too unpredictable). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the downsides of wide bars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;they upset your bike fit, so you should use a shorter head stem. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;they limit the size of gaps you can ride through. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T00:42:49.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-24T03:29:23.860" Score="1" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you help to find out the brand, type, &amp;amp; year model of this MTB frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;Gary Fisher&amp;quot; decal was added later and is not correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BwmuH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14524" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-09-02T19:51:49.177" LastActivityDate="2020-09-02T19:51:49.177" Title="What frame is this?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25784" CreationDate="2014-11-24T08:56:40.413" Score="2" ViewCount="2180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering which you'd expect to wear faster: wheel rims or brake blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is that my mileage has shot up the last couple of years so I'm seeing a lot of wear on things I never knew could wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;I'm told that chain, cassette and front chain rings should generally be replaced together.&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;em&gt;As per comments and answers I won't be using that cycle shop again.  Luckily it didn't cost me too much cash.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if the same applied wheel rims or if or if wheel rims are expected to last much longer than brake blocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's what prompted the question...  I have some &quot;Mavic Open Pro&quot; rims bought two years ago.  I've burned through less than 2 sets of brake blocks since.  This last month I've started hearing about rims wearing and the existence of markers.  Here's where I get stuck.  &lt;em&gt;I can't find any markers&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So although the above seems a stupid question I'm trying to figure out if it ever had them?  I'm presuming not because I would have thought I'd notice and I shouldn't have worn them smooth yet judging from comments.  I'm also trying to figure out if I don't have them what the sign would be if they need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the sound of it I wont need to worry for a while, I've got a few brake pad changes left in them yet... but for piece of mind I wonder if there's a way to know if they're out of tolerance without markers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13576" LastEditorUserId="13576" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T17:24:52.467" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T16:43:35.270" Title="Which usually wears faster - wheel rims or brake blocks?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25783" CreationDate="2014-11-24T09:43:30.260" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rims last &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; longer than brake pads. It's difficult to put a number, as it depends on so many parameters, but personally I change brake pads roughly once a year (2-3'000km), and I haven't ever changed a rim due to it wearing out. (There has always been other reasons to change them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On many rims there's a tiny groove in the middle of the braking surface. You're supposed to change the rim when the bulk of the rim has worn down to that level. (But as I said, it hasn't happened to me yet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your other advice, 'replacing cassette, chain ring and chain together', it's not the most common of advice, to put it bluntly. The advice you're likely to get is to  change the chain when it's starting to wear (you have to measure the length of it, either with a special chain-tool, or with a tape measure. If it's increased by 1% it's time to change.) If you don't change the chain it will start to wear down the cassette, and eventually the chain ring - but that takes a lot longer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastEditorUserId="11285" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T14:50:22.953" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T14:50:22.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25783" CreationDate="2014-11-24T09:44:30.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically it's the brake pads that wear faster as they are the softer material. However, under certain (but rather special) conditions it can be the other way round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride in an area where there's lots of dust from hard and sharp materials in the air (something like granite dust or dust from volcanic rock) and it is in addition often rainy, you might get some grinding paste like debris onto your brake pads that could grind down your rims in no time. But luckily that is a rather rare occasion and normally rims should last for several sets of brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also both have normally indicators that tell you when they need replacement. For the brake pads you should replace them by the latest when they are worn down so much that the notches – that are to better remove water and debris from their surface – are no longer existent. Rims have for some years now also a notch (often differently colored) in their braking surface. If the surface is worn down so much that the notch is gone, they should be also be replaced. In this case it's also a safety thing as the structural integrity of the rim might get affected if you use it above that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T09:44:30.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25783" CreationDate="2014-11-24T09:53:51.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would expect brake blocks to wear out, to the point of needing replacement, much faster than rims. However, the rims may look gouged or a little rough, long before that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both will wear out faster if you are riding in dirty/gritty conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rate of wear can also depend on the kind of rim blocks you use. In my experience it's worth investing in good brake blocks to preserve your much more expensive rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When choosing blocks, there is also a bit of a trade-off between braking power and wear on the rims. Several people I know who do very high mileage recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/review/53826-swissstop-ghp2-full-rxplus-brake-pads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Swisstop Green&lt;/a&gt;, which are apparently kind to the rims and provide reasonable stopping power in all conditions. Others swear by &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Koolstop Salmon&lt;/a&gt; for their stopping power, although they may wear the rims a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you use it's a good idea to remove any bits of grit/metal from the blocks regularly as this will wear the rims much faster than any block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T09:53:51.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25732" CreationDate="2014-11-24T11:06:54.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my daughter was around three, we started out with the trailer bike and then graduated to a tandem with the pedals adapted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She had been on training wheels on her own little bike since she was two and was doing just fine; being on the trailer bike gave her an opportunity to go places, to feel like a big kid and to develop an appreciation for what cycling can offer. For me, I saw it as an opportunity to be exposed to cycling but even better, it was lots of fun for us both. Sometimes she would pedal, other times not so much. It didn't really matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short order, she was riding her own bike but we continued to use the trailer bike until she was eight when we graduated to the tandem. She would pedal along, talking the whole way, and of course, on the hills, I was on my own. Again, the bottom line was that we had tons of fun and traveled many miles in that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now at 27, she lives in the Boston area. She sold her car and uses her bike as her primary mode of transportation.  I seriously doubt that she would have even considered selling her car if she hadn't had that kind of exposure and had developed such positive feelings about cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the moral of the story is that perhaps you could see the trailer bike primarily as a way of showing your kid the possibilities as opposed to a way to learn. Much less anxiety for both of you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T11:06:54.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-24T11:36:56.117" Score="5" ViewCount="2654" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently brought a road bike for my sister in law and we took her out on a quick test ride (only about 1km and SLOW). The next day she complained (a bit, mostly my brother being over protective maybe) about her rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is, how do I know it's normal and she just needs to get used to the saddle, or if it will cause discomfort in future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike path in question isn't well maintained so had a fair few pot holes. Also my brother informs me that my sister in law is a woman (never checked myself, and evidence supports this), so I am aware that she would need a lady's saddle, which I hope came with the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13165" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T13:02:59.980" Title="Should a saddle hurt?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-24T11:42:53.777" Score="0" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference of having larger no of teeth in the front derailleur? does it help in speed and distance covered? Suggest a good hybrid on which I can achieve faster speeds? My budget is $700.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14528" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T20:14:44.907" Title="I am 6ft and riding a firefox kompac. My speed never crosses 18kmph" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25789" CreationDate="2014-11-24T12:37:27.023" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was the bike from a shop and did the shop staff help with bike fit and saddle comfort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is yes, then it's a matter of building up those bottom muscles by having a similar ride every couple of days. After three or four rides she should be ok. If not, go back to the shop and seek their assistance. If you already spent money there, then fixing the seat problem should be free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is no, try the same approach, but if it doesn't improve your next option would be to visit you local bike shop and see if they can sell her a more comfortable seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T12:37:27.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25790" CreationDate="2014-11-24T12:52:01.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is your &quot;cadence&quot; (number of pedal revolutions per minute)?  A healthy young cyclist should be able to &quot;cruise&quot; at 80-90 rpm, and that would be considered your top speed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at 80 rpm you're only getting 18kmph (11mph) in your fastest gear then your bike gearing is quite low and you probably need to change something.  But many novice cyclists simply pedal too slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a multi-speed bike you should focus first on getting a &quot;reasonable&quot; cadence (maybe 60 rpm when &quot;taking it easy&quot;, 80-90 when trying to go fast).  &quot;Gear down&quot; into an easier gear until you learn to maintain cadence, then slowly increase gear difficulty to gain strength and stamina.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T12:52:01.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25790" CreationDate="2014-11-24T13:04:31.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the web site that bike comes with 40T chainring and a 14-28T Freewheel.&#xA;17.94 kmph is a cadence of only 50.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bikecalc.com&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;You should be up at 80+. &#xA;On a sprint you should go over 100.&#xA;A folding bike is not as efficient as most full size bike but gearing is not what is holding you back at 18 kmph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oolRa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not going to give specific hybrids but there are many at that price point.  Some are more road like (smaller diameter tires).  If you are looking for road speed go for more of a road style hybrid.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.firefoxbikes.com/BikeDetails.aspx?BikeId=43&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KOMPAC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T19:13:57.177" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T19:13:57.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25783" CreationDate="2014-11-24T14:27:18.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I takes a lot of miles to wear out rims.   A cheap bike with really cheap rims will wear out faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often there will be wear bar and when you wear through that the rim is at the end of its life.  If not you could use calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a wear bar what will typically fail first is the seam where rim joins. When you see it start to separate then it is time for a new rim.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You take it to the shop to have it straightened and they tell you the rim will just not true and you need a new one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the choice is to put new rim and spokes on the existing hub or buy a new complete wheel. Unless you have a high end hub that is designed to last multiple rims you should get a complete wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a bike you plan to keep then consider getting a new wheel before it is gone all the way to have spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is it a wheel that would work as a spare if you bought a new bike.  Like a 26&quot; on a mountain bike then don't spend much as the new bikes are 29&quot; disc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T14:27:18.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25789" CreationDate="2014-11-24T17:45:41.323" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a bike last year and after a few rides, I found the saddle very painful. I resisted on riding it, assuming that I'll get used to it, but it never happened, and I was even concerned that I haven't got the right size of a bike. However I got a silicon gel saddle cover and since then the pain stopped. I didn't need cycling shorts or pants either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time I was thinking that it probably is not the gel cover, but just me getting used to the saddle, till the cover got stolen a couple of months ago, and since then, every time I want to cycle, the pain is back, and I can remain painful even for a few days after an hour of cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I had read various articles about choosing the right saddles, and based on my own experience riding different city and mountain bikes, the bigger, wider and softer (ladies') saddles work better for me, and possibly for most of the women; (Tip #3 from &lt;a href=&quot;http://totalwomenscycling.com/commuting/commuting-hints-tips/7-important-things-to-think-about-when-buying-a-new-saddle-26782/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;7 tips to find the perfect saddle&lt;/a&gt; also mentions this), but if she's not willing to spend money on the saddle, you can just get one of those silicon covers to fix the problem, and it's less hassle than wearing the pants/shorts if you're using your bike as a means of transportation in different outfits, rather than just cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12815" LastEditorUserId="12815" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T13:02:59.980" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T13:02:59.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25790" CreationDate="2014-11-24T20:14:44.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One common problem with people who are new to cycling is that they tend to under-inflate the tyres. Too low tyre pressure means increased rolling friction which is likely to be quite noticeable. (At higher speeds the air resistance is dominant, but not really at these speeds.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly how high pressure is a hotly debated question, but as a rule it should be near the 'maximum recommended tyre pressure' indicated on the sidewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the look of it, that bike comes with some knobbly off-road style tyres, but if you intend to stay on paved roads you could replace them with smoother (and narrower) tyres which would also improve the top speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T20:14:44.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25800" CreationDate="2014-11-24T21:44:52.690" Score="5" ViewCount="1910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to whether or not anyone knows who makes this brake lever or if anyone makes one like it. I know the bike in the image is a Montreal-based company called Bassi that primarily sells through the shop in the same town called &amp;quot;C&amp;amp;L Cycles&amp;quot; however I emailed them and received no response. I appreciate any and all help! Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2nMw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brake lever&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another image of the brake lever on the bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5HJN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brake lever with bike&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14533" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2021-04-06T02:22:04.710" Title="What (kind of?) brake lever is this?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25789" CreationDate="2014-11-24T22:20:59.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time matters more than distance, but 1 km is a very short ride. She shouldn't have a lot of pain the next day. Either she was wearing poor clothing, the saddle shape, or bike fit are really bad for her, or she hit a bump hard, or some combination of those things. Or she doesn't really want to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First find out if she WANTS to ride. If she does, make sure the bike fits her. Unless she has been very inactive up to now, the fact that her arms hurt after only 1k would lead me to suspect the bars are too low or too wide, saddle nose is tilted down too much, the stem too long, or the frame is too big. Saddle fore/aft position should not be used to adjust the reach to the bars. Fore/aft adjustments are to position the rider's lower body properly in relation to the crank. Get her some padded shorts and chamois cream and instruct her how to wear them; i.e. no underwear. Possibly try a cushier saddle. Problems with cushier saddles generally don't manifest until one starts doing longer rides. Make adjustments she requests. These may be pretty frequent at first. Until she's riding at least 10 miles a few times a week don't worry about trying to find the perfect saddle for her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note, bigger, wider, softer saddles are NOT better for all women. Nor is woman's saddle always best. Myself and a friend are two who are most comfortable on narrow, hard, &quot;men's&quot; saddles. Many women I know who ride regularly prefer men's saddles. Some women are most comfortable with a cut-out. Others find cut-outs extremely painful. I've also known women who weren't comfortable until the nose of their saddle was tilted down significantly. Shorts/saddle combination can also make a huge difference. There isn't one style of saddle that's best for all of us. It comes down to differences in individual anatomy, as well as shorts and riding styles. The Team Estrogen forums are a great resource to help women find saddles that might be comfortable for them, but ultimately saddles need to be tested for awhile. If you don't have a shop nearby with a good saddle try-out policy, eBay can be a way to try out different saddles for an extended time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T22:20:59.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25798" CreationDate="2014-11-24T22:24:29.023" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's almost certainly a Gran Compe SHOT LEVER two handle brake lever. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/au/gear/category/components/brake-levers/product/review-dia-compe-gran-compe-shot-brake-lever-09-34446/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This description&lt;/a&gt; matches quite well and there's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/723571-gran-compe-shot-lever-two-handle-brake-lever.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;some comments on Bike Forums&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y2Hd5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply, both levers operate the same brake, but on a narrow bar where you don't have room for two levers for two brakes it's a good compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T22:24:29.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24440" CreationDate="2014-11-25T00:43:39.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cykelhobby.com/nishbild.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nishiki Arrow Speed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had one of those while in college in the early 90s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14538" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T00:43:39.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25818" CreationDate="2014-11-25T00:58:31.173" Score="1" ViewCount="1398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a woman's bike. And I found a 2014  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/secteur/secteur-double&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specialized Sectour double&lt;/a&gt;. Is this a men's bike? If so what are the disadvantages of a women riding it ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQ2J7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14010" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T01:21:39.863" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T16:40:14.817" Title="Is the Specialized Sectour Double 2014 a men's bike. Can a women ride a men's bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-25T03:18:35.380" Score="0" ViewCount="2895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Merida hybrid cycle fitted with Shimano XT Deore 3 x 8 speed (42/32/24T). The crank has a few worn teeth and I would like to replace with Shimano XT Deore (48/36/26T). The seller states this is for 3 x 9 speed gear set, can I fit to my cycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14540" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T15:35:39.987" Title="Can I fit 3 x9 speed crankset to 3 x 8 speed cartridge" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25805" CreationDate="2014-11-25T05:51:20.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are no complications with running a 9 speed crankset on an 8 speed drivetrain. You can see image below that some 9 speed cranks are even listed as being 9/8 speed cranks. You shouldn't encounter any problems, but you will have you readjust your front dérailleur to make room for the larger ring, and double check your chain length on big rings after it's installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/asdIn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T15:35:39.987" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T15:35:39.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25802" CreationDate="2014-11-25T06:02:52.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sold Specialized bikes for a lot of years, they do make gender specific frames, women's bikes have shorter top tubes relative to the seat tubes, this is because women on average have shorter backs and longer legs than men do, they also come with womens saddles, and sometimes women specific grips (for feminine hands). The Sectour is considered a men's frame. Not everyone is built the same though, my wife rides a men's frame because she is really tall in the body. The only other difference between men and women's Specialized frames is that women's frames sometimes have &quot;girlier&quot; colours and paint details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T16:40:14.817" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T16:40:14.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25824" CreationDate="2014-11-25T06:44:38.573" Score="5" ViewCount="1614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two kids (about 70lbs/30kgs combined) whom I during the summer frequently took biking in a trailer (once I got them used to it, say a dozen trips this summer or slightly more).  I biked 5+ miles round trip with them without significant difficulty; I'm not in great shape, but I was generally able to get up over 10MPH when I had a decent flat straightaway, and didn't need to stop (biking 3 miles in a residential setting with frequent stop signs/lights in 20 to 25 minutes).  I typically bike in the 2nd forward gear, 4-7 rear gear (4 is for starting from a stop usually, then I go up to 7 once I'm at speed assuming I don't immediately stop again).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hadn't biked for a couple of months perhaps, when I suddenly had a need to bike ~6 mi round trip to take my older son to preschool and younger to daycare.  This was on a suddenly cold day, below freezing - around 10˚F/-10˚C.  I checked my tires visually and by feel, and they seemed fine (the bike was stored in an unheated garage, but it probably did have a 20 or more ˚F buffer from the outside given this was the first day of real cold weather).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made it half a mile, in 2nd and 1st forward gear, completely out of breath and almost vomiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw at least two problems: one is that it was as if I had shifted to 3rd forward gear, as far as how hard it was to use the gears - I couldn't go at all in my normal gear range.  Second was that the cold air seemed to have significant effect on my lungs even after not very much exertion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are some of these issues things I can do something about, or is biking in the fairly cold impossible for someone of my skill level?  Is the chain oil wrong and not functional at lower temperatures?  Is the 70lb weight on the back of my bike making a bigger difference (due to air pressure in the tires or something)?  I'm not taking into account ice or snow here - this was the first cold day of the winter, so just simply cold (this was during the 'polar plunge' or whatever silly name they gave it this year).  I know exertion in the cold is a different beast than exertion in the summer, but this seemed a level of magnitude harder than I anticipated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a hybrid with factory tires, ~$400 USD bike when new (now 2-3 years old), probably has maybe 200 miles on it total.  No particular maintenance done recently, just usual tire airing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13404" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T07:02:50.590" Title="Biking in the winter more difficult?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-25T08:51:12.020" Score="0" ViewCount="1277" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is the first time i gonna buy and ride a road bike. Mainly use to commute everyday and exercise. I'm tall 5&quot;3 and i'm looking for a bike which is durable,fast, better to upgrade later. And i got 2 options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Giant Defy Composite 2 2013 Size Small ( 46.5cm ) i think. I got a deal on Ebay, it still new and i got price 1150 + 150 for shipping. So $1300 total. ( SRAM Apex gear,full carbon frame )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Giant TCR SLR2 2015 from a local bike shop. Original price $1500 and they discount for me so i only pay $1200 for a new one and i can choose the size...may be Extra Small. ( 105 gear, premium alluminum,carbon fork)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today i went to the store and try the Aluminum Defy 5, and it's ok. I try the other bike Cannondale CAAD10 but I got more harder to control, may be the handbar more lower and different geometry. I didn't have chance to try the TCR because they didn't have XS or S size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now i have to choose one of it. Both of them must be fast, accept the counter price on ebay before it gone, or order TCR before Black Friday to have a good discount.&#xA;I also wonder does it hard to maintain Defy composite than TCR, the street in my place a lot of pump and sometime have to ride on pavel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for advise of you guys. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14541" LastEditorUserId="14541" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T09:21:10.823" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T10:55:16.340" Title="Giant TCR SLR2 2015 vs Giant Defy Composite 2 2013" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-11-25T14:12:58.370" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25809" CreationDate="2014-11-25T10:55:16.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general answer to this kind of question, I recommend that you buy from your local bike shop. While shops can vary, if they seem to provide reasonable service and the price is reasonable, it's worth buying from them for several reasons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the profit on your sale will help them stay in business - so they will be there when you need service.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;many shops bundle clothing, shoes, helmet, bottles, lights, and such with the sale - so you end up with a better deal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;many shops will give you a free service and free adjustments - if you bought from them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; come a time when you need them, start the relationship now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T10:55:16.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25805" CreationDate="2014-11-25T13:01:08.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, one crankset will have been manufactured for an 8-speed chain, the other will have been manufactured for a 9-speed chain. That is basically the difference between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The external widths of an 8-speed chain and a 9-speed chain differ by something like a few tenths of a millimetre. It is arguable whether this amount makes any practical difference to your shifting experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the one hand, the bike companies will say that it does. Everything that is part of the chainset will have been manufactured precisely, based upon a certain chain width, and anything different will give you an &quot;imperfect&quot; experience. But then the bike companies also have a vested interest in selling you components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the difference is so small that many people happily run this setup without reporting any ill-effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from this, I agree entirely with @ShemSeger's answer, but I did think it was important to emphasise to you that there will be a difference, albeit slight, between the two cranksets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T13:01:08.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18722" CreationDate="2014-11-25T13:16:31.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;its wheel building machines in action&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu7WXwdDxbGO39vre3_xLTw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu7WXwdDxbGO39vre3_xLTw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14545" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T13:16:31.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25805" CreationDate="2014-11-25T13:17:33.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front is effectively independent of the back - a triple which is &quot;9 speed&quot; should work fine if you replace it with a triple &quot;8 speed&quot; and vice versa (the speeds for the rear when marketing front cranksets are marketing). Similar with &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html#speeds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;derailleurs in the front&lt;/a&gt; vs whats going on in the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably need a new chain, and you need to see if the front derailleur is even rated to take a 48t (which I suspect it probably isn't). This can be done by checking the spec sheet for the front derailleur. If not, you need a FD which has the same cable pull as your shifters which has the capacity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on a Deore XT crankset, you can buy replacement chainrings and install them, so you could save a decent amount of money this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T13:17:33.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25817" CreationDate="2014-11-25T13:17:59.513" Score="1" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a hard and fast rule on where to ride within a lane, if one exists at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard people say that you should ride as far over as you can while avoiding drains, potholes, small children etc.. and keeping out of the way of motorists. I have also read that further out into the lane is safer causing motorists to give you a wider berth and increasing your visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is correct and are there any meaningful statistics to be found?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/31494/8273&quot;&gt;Best ways to avoid getting hit by cars?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11200" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T06:13:48.323" Title="Safest position to ride on roads with cars" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25802" CreationDate="2014-11-25T13:25:15.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Naturally you would want to put a women's seat on it.&#xA;A shop will typically switch our for free.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a comparable women's in Specialized. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/womens-road/dolce/dolce#specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DOLCE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T14:01:25.347" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T14:01:25.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25808" CreationDate="2014-11-25T13:32:43.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short version: the bike was fine (maybe low on tire pressure) but you were not, provided you didn't have something like a brake dragging (which you would have noticed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt a bike would have retained air in its tires for a few months, so you should have pumped them up [this may have added some rolling resistance, but it shouldn't have killed you on its own]. Winter biking is more difficult than Spring biking (and I'd argue summer biking). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The colder air makes it harder to breathe (and thus carrying loads is harder). Your brain also hinders you a bit for the risk of ice/snow (though you said there wasn't any). Your face feels cold, your hands feel cold, so on so forth. Depending on how you're dressed up, your clothes may be doing additional air restrictions. Also, a lot of people are prone to over-bundling up -- your body will come to temperature in a short length of riding, so don't wear too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, at 10 F, the bike itself is fine -- it is just like it was in the summer (*) [the oil is too]. Its you who isn't. But what you experience is &lt;em&gt;normal&lt;/em&gt;, and as a person who does winter commuting, the best way to get over it is mostly to &lt;em&gt;just keep riding&lt;/em&gt; (start without the trailer [the 70 pounds is harder for &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; as the engine, since you're weaker, not the bike itself] and go for some rides, and build it up -- I regularly bike during winters, but the first 2 weeks I find a lot less breath on hand [and I ride pretty much every day]). Your stamina should come up (albeit not to summer levels).  Compound it with suddenly doing a 6 mile trip, and its even worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) When it gets below freezing, you can get things like water going into your brake/shift lines, etc. which can make the bike not fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(**) When the snow and ice come, its not just the increased difficulty of breathing and the cold that get you, but you have to start in higher gears to move. And the resistance goes up dramatically, so your effort also goes up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T13:32:43.680" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25814" CreationDate="2014-11-25T13:39:23.177" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hard and fast rule is to do whatever it takes to keeps you safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing is to ride with lights at night and reflective gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, what I do is, if theres a wide enough shoulder I will use it. If there isn't, I take the lane. Being in a corner of a lane is a problem since motorists will try to sneak past and can't always judge the room needed to do so safely (at least a 3 foot margin from you). The side of the road is generally bad as debris tends to collect there, so you increase your risk of punctures and what not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there may be legal things to do -- The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/NR/rdonlyres/BFB1C856-DE5B-47A7-8C3A-39247E6112F8/0/newcommute4webpdf.pdf&quot;&gt;Washington state bicycling guide&lt;/a&gt; says cyclists must be as far right as it is safe &lt;em&gt;not as far right as is possible&lt;/em&gt; (my personal policy also follows this). Check with your local area to see what the legal policy is (if any). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote the Washington state bicycling guide:&#xA;&quot;Washington State law requires cyclists &#xA;to ride as far to the right as is safe, &#xA;not as far to the right as is possible. &#xA;There is a crucial difference. Assess the &#xA;situation to decide how far towards the &#xA;center of the lane you need to travel &#xA;to be safe versus unduly delaying &#xA;motorized traffic. Taking the full lane &#xA;is generally safest when traveling for &#xA;short stretches on lower speed roads &#xA;(20-25mph). On higher speed roads, it &#xA;may be safer to reduce your speed and &#xA;stay further to the right rather than &#xA;compete with faster vehicles for the &#xA;full lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find it necessary to take &#xA;the lane in the following kinds of &#xA;situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•    when traveling at traffic speed and &#xA;you need to prevent motorists from &#xA;inadvertently cutting you off;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•    when descending a hill and you &#xA;need extra space (for reaction time) &#xA;due to your speed;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•    when lane width does not permit &#xA;a motorized vehicle behind you to &#xA;safely pass;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•    when road conditions (potholes, &#xA;road debris or parked cars) preclude &#xA;you from riding farther to the right.&#xA;Be aware that many motorists neither &#xA;understand that you have the right to &#xA;take the lane in these situations (or at &#xA;all), nor may they see road condition &#xA;hazards which you are trying to avoid.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to note is that part of safety (aside from abiding from the law) is dealing with harassment. From the same guide: &quot;Most motorists are courteous and happy to share the road with cyclists, but &#xA;unfortunately, the small minority of drivers who are rude or threatening &#xA;stand out. Harassment can make a commute unenjoyable or even dangerous. &#xA;Fortunately, it rarely occurs. If harassed, try to keep your cool and remember &#xA;that your safety is the priority. You will rarely convince an irate motorist to share &#xA;the road, and besides, you don’t want to provoke a person unstable enough to &#xA;harass you in the first place. Your best bet is to develop your riding skills, know &#xA;your rights, ride legally and try to keep calm in the event you are harassed. &#xA;Noting a car’s license plate, description and occupants may help when reporting &#xA;an incident to the authorities.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T13:39:23.177" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25802" CreationDate="2014-11-25T14:10:18.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that whether a bike is Unisex (men's) or women's specific it is of fairly little relevance. What matters more is an individual's fit on an individual bike. Tall people need big bikes, short people need smaller bikes, regardless of gender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it says here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/h/option/bikesizeguide#women-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/h/option/bikesizeguide#women-bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A women's bike is built to fit the average woman but a lot people aren't average. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The punchline is this: try the bike out before you buy it, if it fits.. it fits!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: The photographed frame is a compact frame so you are expected to have a lot of seat-post exposed. If you have to lower the seat way down below the handlebars to reach the pedals, that's not a good fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11200" LastEditorUserId="11200" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T14:15:54.183" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T14:15:54.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3436" CreationDate="2014-11-25T14:41:23.050" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unicycling helps you get in touch with balance. Thank god for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14549" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T14:41:23.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-25T14:41:49.477" Score="0" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I find the brand/make of a bike wheel? I have been given a free bike in great condition except the front wheel is damaged. I need to replace it but can't find any markings to state what make it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14550" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T14:56:13.590" Title="how to find wheel brand" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25821" CreationDate="2014-11-25T14:56:13.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;you need to know the width of the front fork at the axle, to know what width your new hub needs to be. Then you need the diameter of the wheel (mostly stated on the tire, 26&quot; or 28&quot; usually) and if you need a wheel with a braking surface on the rim of the wheel (if you have v-brakes: yes). If you have a disc brake in the front, you need a compatible hub for this. With those four things in mind you can go and look for a wheel :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12660" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T14:56:13.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25808" CreationDate="2014-11-25T16:29:08.810" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bike all winter long, down to -30°C, there are some definite tolls to your bike at colder temperatures. Unlike a vehicle that warms up after the engine has been running for a while, bikes stay cold when you ride them cold. There are two things I notice the most, air pressure is definitely one of them; cold air shrinks, and low tires drag, so if you're riding dry roads I would certainly check to your pressure. Normally I don't put extra air in my tires, because up here the cold is usually accompanied by snow, and low tires give you better traction. The other thing I notice when it gets really cold is the grease in my bearings gets thicker, and as a result my hubs don't roll as fast. Pick your bike up and give the wheels a spin, you might find that they slow to a stop a lot quicker. I notice it in my headset too, but that doesn't affect speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I've done to avoid drag due to thick bearing grease is to actually replace the grease in my wheels with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.philwood.com/products/gohc/oilngrease.php&quot;&gt;Phil Wood Tenacious Oil&lt;/a&gt;. I tried it out as an experiment one year, and I've never had problems with it since (I kept checking inside the hubs for a while expecting to find them dry and rusty, but Phil's oil lives up to it's name; it's &lt;em&gt;tenacious&lt;/em&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the best thing to do is to not push yourself, compensate for the conditions, leave a bit earlier, find a new gear range that you can maintain a comfortable cadence in without giving yourself a heart attack, and just plough along. If the conditions are miserable already, there's no sense in making yourself more miserable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T17:19:29.963" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T17:19:29.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25826" CreationDate="2014-11-25T21:26:59.760" Score="0" ViewCount="5475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with 27 1 1/4 rims. I plan to buy  a pair of Kenda K161 (27 1 3/8) because the roads get really slippery during the winter. Will these tires fit on my rims? I aldo don't want to buy a new 200c wheelset because it's expensive. Another option is DIY studded tires but buying these tires seems the cheapest option.&#xA;There is a similar question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/25024/kenda-cyclo-cross-27-x-1-3-8-fit-on-27-x-1-1-4-rim/25025#25025&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; but the answer isn't really conclusive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T22:29:51.373" Title="27 1 3/8 tires on 27 1 1/4 rims" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-11-26T14:23:28.250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25825" CreationDate="2014-11-25T22:29:51.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires that are 27 x anything all have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bead seat diameter of 630 mm&lt;/a&gt;, so they should fit on the rim as the tire diameter is the same.  (Assuming of course your current tires (27 1 1/4) fit correctly). That leaves the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are your rim width wide enough for the wider tire?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does your frame have sufficient clearance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have fenders, do your fenders have sufficient clearance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The widths of the two sizes in question are 32 mm  and 35 mm respectively, which is a small change in width, so it is likely that if again if your current tires (27 1 1/4 tires) currently fit correctly, the slightly wider tires should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, whether or not the Kenda K161 are appropriate depends on what you mean as &quot;slippery&quot;.  If &quot;slippery&quot; means wet, then the tire compound matters most (bicycle tires are too narrow to hydroplane), look for soft tacky rubber. If &quot;slippery&quot; means compacted snow, then the lug pattern (see below) could help.  If &quot;slippery&quot; means black ice, few if any tires will be sufficient (maybe the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle_de_en/themes/city/TopCONTACTWinterIIPremium_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Continental Top Winter Contact&lt;/a&gt;, but I have never used them). If &quot;slippery&quot; is actual ice, then studded tires are best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kenda K161&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDyWA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T22:29:51.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25827" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-26T02:29:49.363" Score="1" ViewCount="19467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a 5'9.5 and I use a 26er gt and I don't feel that comfortable as it feels so small. I've also tried a 27.5 merida, it was an improvement but I can't still quite grasp that same feeling when you were a kid and bikes were huge. I feel a 29er would be better for what I'm craving for, but since I've been hearing about 29ers being sluggish, for a guy who loves single tracks, would buying a 29er which is slightly more expensive a choice to regret?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW I live in a city where there are limited bike shops, and they don't give test rides. So please help me. I don't want to spend my budget on something I really want and then regret it. An answer from someone who already had or have a 29er would be great, but anyone would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14553" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T17:06:16.317" Title="is a 29er a good fit for a 5'9 height?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25827" CreationDate="2014-11-26T02:35:22.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;26 or 29 is the tire size.  You need to buy a frame size that fits you.  At 5'9&quot; you are tall enough for 29er tire size but not an XL frame.  You would be a medium in most frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have moved from 26 to 29 and 29 is a big step up.  29 tubeless is even better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T02:35:22.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23118" CreationDate="2014-11-26T07:51:22.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the crank bolt coming loose is the only issue, perhaps try some locktite on the bolt...go medium strength so you can remove it in the future if needed.... i had problems with my 2009 Trek 4500 with the crank creaking. Ended up using a plain old washer on the bolt as a spacer...worked a charm and no issues in the last 18mths.  Currently have a trek stache with the creak issue. Bolt is thicker so haven't found a washer that will fit on it to see if that will fix the issue as well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14556" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T07:51:22.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25834" CreationDate="2014-11-26T13:34:44.697" Score="2" ViewCount="2722" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recessed pivot nut for my front brake calliper (no. 4 in &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/BR/EV-BR-6700-2921C_v1_m56577569830753782.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this diagram&lt;/a&gt;) has seized inside the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've managed to remove the brake calliper itself by unscrewing it from the front, but the nut is stuck so tightly that I'm worried I'll round off the socket if I try to extract it with a hex key.  I've tried dousing the assembly in GT-85 but it doesn't seem to be helping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone suggested screwing an M6 bolt in from the front and knocking it through with a hammer, but I'm not sure how hard I can safely hit it (my careful attempts so far haven't worked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I likely to damage a carbon fork by doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="452" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:38:46.880" Title="Recessed brake pivot nut stuck in carbon fork" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25783" CreationDate="2014-11-26T13:45:58.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking Mavics for wear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all Mavic rims have the wear indicating groove along the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some rims, including a pair of Mavic Ksyrium I currently ride, have a small circular wear indicator on each side, located on the rim brake surface exactly opposite to the valve location. Such wear indicators do not wear away, like the groove, but rather a small hole will appear as the rim is almost worn out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find if your OpenPro's have this, but if they lack a wear indicating groove chances are they do. Please check the Mavic documentation to make sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is possible under strong light to see the indicators, even if the rim is not worn out. You will only need to replace the rim as soon as you can clearly see the hole (unfortunately I don't have a photo but it is pretty obvious)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T13:45:58.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25832" CreationDate="2014-11-26T14:13:29.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please don't hammer it from the front. You risk rotating the nut and completely jamming it in the carbon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep at it for a few days with penetrating oil. If that doesn't help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to remove the nut by pulling it out from the rear. &#xA;I would suggest finding out what size bolt will fit through the entire nut (perhaps M4). Get a long bolt or piece of threaded rod in this size and slide it through the stuck nut. On the front side, thread on two nuts and a washer (the washer goes between the nuts and the stuck nut).Screw both nuts tightly together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the rear side, place a small plate of (ply)wood with a 5mm hole in it. Make sure the block is shaped such that it comfortably rests on the rear of the fork legs/fork crown. Take some time to shape the wood, depending on your fork geometry to avoid any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thread a washer and nut onto the wood block, and thread on two nuts at the end of the rod again.&#xA;Use a wrench to hold the the nut on the wood block, and another wrench to move the two rear nuts to pull out the whole assembly, including your stuck nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T14:13:29.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-26T16:11:55.857" Score="5" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any resources out there with details for specific backcountry/primitive tours, such as water sources, itineraries, camping spots, route difficulty, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a hiker/camper who just bought an &quot;offroad touring&quot; bike a few months ago, and I've been dying to take it out on a long-term trail ride. Problem is, so many of the trails that I find don't allow bikes at all. The ones that do are frequently very short and catered to technical mountain biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a couple sparse sources, but not much. Most sources for tour info seem to cater to supported road tours, or road tours in general. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepacking.net/bikepacking-routes/&quot;&gt;This is the best example of what I'm looking for&lt;/a&gt;, but I get the feeling that there are many more options out there than this site lists. I notice that the entire Ozark trail is missing, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14473" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T18:49:22.337" Title="Detailed resources for planning backcountry/primitive tours?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25783" CreationDate="2014-11-26T16:43:35.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rims last much longer than brake blocks.  If you are biking in gritty conditions (in my case slushy snow with sand mixed in) then you will wear out rims a little faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had two rims wear out, and the failure mode was not catastrophic, but it showed up as a thump wile braking.  Don't worry about lack of wear markers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T16:43:35.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25827" CreationDate="2014-11-26T17:26:46.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say it depends on your riding style and the geometry of the specific bike you are looking at.  29'r is definitely not to big for you (I am 5'10&quot; and my 29'rs are just fine).  However, there are reasons that a lot of all mountain, freeride and almost all downhill rigs are still 26&quot;.  29'rs are less suited for highly technical riding, but much better suited for cross country and trail riding.  As always, tailor your bicycle choice to your riding style.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are into flowy single track and aren't hitting drops, ripping through rock gardens and generally abusing the landscape with your rig, then 29&quot; is probably a better choice for you (with the right size frame).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T17:26:46.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25835" CreationDate="2014-11-26T18:49:22.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Are there ever!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm totally evangelizing for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;adventure cycling association&lt;/a&gt; in my answer here, but check this out: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes-and-maps/adventure-cycling-route-network/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adventure Cycling Route Network&lt;/a&gt;. They have a lot of road tours but they do mountain tours as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want the extreme of extreme backcountry mountain bike tours? How does 4418km of trail riding along the continental divide sound? Check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://tourdivide.org/about_the_route&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tour Divide&lt;/a&gt;, It follows the ACA's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes-and-maps/adventure-cycling-route-network/great-divide-mountain-bike-route/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Great Divide Route&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that take a closer look at the trail systems in National Parks, there are  trails that permit cycling, and some that are long enough to bikepack on for a couple days. At least there are lots where I'm from, which is near Glacier National Park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T18:49:22.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25808" CreationDate="2014-11-26T21:14:14.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many things that make biking more difficult in the cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the largest factor is air resistance.  At normal temperatures, the air drag grows as the square of the speed, and becomes greater than the sum of all other losses at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/aero/formulas.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;speeds over 12km/h&lt;/a&gt;.  A 30C drop in temperature makes the air about 10% denser, and drag is proportional to air density.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second factor working against you is clothing.  If you are wearing bulkier clothing it increases your air drag because your area from the front increases.  Winter clothing also has the effect somewhat constricting your movement at the knees hips and shoulders.  Finally you have the thermal problem with winter clothing were you start out cold and then get hot when going uphill and then quickly get cold at stop lights.  The discomfort works against your perception of efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with properly inflated tires, the tire drag increases as the cold rubber suffers greater viscous loses.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://deepblue.lib.umich.edu/bitstream/handle/2027.42/4274/bac0913.0001.001.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This effect&lt;/a&gt; increases rolling resistance by about 40%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temperature also makes the lubricants in the hubs and chain thicken.  Since you were only losing a few percent of your efficiency to hub loses, it will be a small part of the overall picture, but it doesn't help any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastEditorUserId="13745" LastEditDate="2014-11-27T18:57:01.660" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T18:57:01.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25463" CreationDate="2014-11-26T21:30:29.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im still confused as to where all these animals are coming from. I've ridden on the canal towpath - at night - I've never had anything run out in front of me. I've also seen cyclists coming down the towpath while my dog is out, no collision either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dont wish to sound funny, but have you tried looking further than your own feet? Are you sure your not just seeing shadows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14568" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T21:30:29.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25827" CreationDate="2014-11-26T21:42:39.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my experience with 29'er - just one persons view point in an evangelical war.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am around 5'9&quot;, moved from multiple 26&quot; 's (soft and hard tails) to 29er (hard tail) and ride XC. Recently we got my wife a 650B Merida. The 650 is slightly lower price than the 29er - and my favourite 26er I was riding most is an old/classic from Mid 1990's weighing under 10kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On non-technical ground and fast flowing single track, the 29er is not a bad bike. Once the corners get tight the 29er is, &quot;a difficult child&quot;. It takes effort to initiate turns and get it do what it should do. Maintaining precise lines though corners next to impossible and even on straights I have to concentrate on holding the line. I initially put it down to geometry differences rather than wheel size (but I have ridden many 26&quot; and never had this problem) as everyone was telling me how great 29er's were, how could it be the wheels. Then I rode my wifes 650B on those tighter technical trails. I will never again buy another 29'er. I now ride my wifes 650B when I head out on technical stuff if she not coming with me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is the difference wheel size, or geometry - my guess, 50/50. The way I see it the 29er was a failed experiment in bigger MTB wheels that made the industry a fortune with people doing upgrades. The 650B is a much better wheel size of a majority of riders, hence the move by the industry towards it. In a few years 650B will be nearly as ubiquitous as 26&quot; was - for good reason - and only very specialised and custom builds will have 29er. Smaller frames may come with 26&quot; just like youth bikes have 24&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will keep my 29'er for non technical XC and unpaved road riding, but will not take it out for serious XC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Batman suggested - rent a 29er and see if you like it. My guess is its a love it or hate it kind of thing, not something you sit on the fence on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T21:42:39.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25842" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-26T22:22:28.120" Score="0" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have the diameter of the rim of my bike and also have the width o this rim, how can I determine which tire is good for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14569" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T22:37:43.457" Title="How to measure the size of a suitable tire for my bike?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25827" CreationDate="2014-11-26T22:37:31.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 29er will definitely fit you. I know shorter people who ride 29ers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the most intricate riding you'll be doing is single track, then I don't think you'll find a 29er to be &quot;sluggish&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Chris said, dh/freeride bikes have smaller wheels, but that's really about your ability to muscle the bike around, and having the wheels be able to withstand more lateral pressure. It sounds like that's not an issue for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2014-11-26T23:18:00.140" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T23:18:00.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25842" CreationDate="2014-11-26T22:37:43.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Measure the diameter of the bead seat (i.e. the place where the tire bead will sit).  It will most likely be one of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;559mm = MTB 26 inch tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;622mm = 700C (a.k.a 29er)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;630mm = 27 inch that is old enough to remember the Bee Gees.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not one of those, look it up here:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#iso&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#iso&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new tire will have a marking on it like &lt;strong&gt;28-622&lt;/strong&gt;.  That second number is the diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T22:37:43.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9238" CreationDate="2014-11-27T00:28:59.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;26&quot; is for historical reasons.  Ignore it as a measurement; it is just a name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Early on, tires were designated by overall diameter not by rim size.  Perhaps rims were destroyed as often as tires, and people tended to replace whole wheels.  With this measurement system you would have a good idea about frame clearance and stand-over height, at the expense of clarity about the tire-rim compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just the inches.  Metric wheels did this too.  If you look at the 700 series there used to be 700A, 700B, 700C, and 700D.  &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; was the narrowest, &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; the widest.  As you would expect, if they all had the same outer diameter, A is the rim largest rim with a  diameter of 642mm, 700C is near the middle with 622mm and 700D were originally balloony tires with a rim size of 587mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;29ers are the new name for 700C.  700mm works out to a little over 27.5 inches, yet the &quot;27.5&quot; inch tires are the same rim diameter as the 650B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any diameter numbers other than the bead seat diameter are just names, not measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastEditorUserId="13745" LastEditDate="2014-11-27T04:18:10.550" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T04:18:10.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9238" CreationDate="2014-11-27T04:19:16.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only reliable tire number is the E.T.R.T.O number that is required by EU law. It's on every tire made in the last 10 years or so. Anything else on the tire is often just marketing, in particular you cannot trust the widths that tire manufacturers provide in English units. One manufacturers 2.4 is a 2.125 from a different manufacturer. However, they will have the same ETRTO code since that is based on the actual physical measurements of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a reasonable first approximation, you can take the width part of the ETRTO code&#xA;as the height of the tire above the diameter part of the ETRTO code when inflated. It does not take tread height into account, but that's lost in the noise. It's not perfect, but there's no better guess you can make w/o measuring each tire on each rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: 700C originally meant a wheel/tire with a 700mm diameter when installed and inflated. Since the rim is 622mm, that meant the tires added 78mm to the wheel or were roughly 39mm in height above the rim. Makes sense since C was the &quot;fat tire&quot; version of the various 700mm wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old A, B, C model is making a comeback in the MTB world. You can get 26,27.5 and 29'er wheels that are nearly the same diameter by choosing the right mix and match of tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T04:19:16.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8722" CreationDate="2014-11-27T06:07:33.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Square taper comes in subtypes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ISO (mostly Campagnolo, SA, Stronglight, some Shimano)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;JIS (basically everyone else)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;other rare types&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To some degree, these can be used interchangeably. However, the resulting small misfit will push the chainline in or out. Sheldon Brown covers this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can Google Velobase for all the possible Square Taper ISO cranks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://velobase.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;site:velobase.com &quot;Square Taper (ISO)&quot; chainring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14279" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T06:07:33.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25851" CreationDate="2014-11-27T11:12:21.370" Score="1" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I plan repairs on an old bike I go to check the local bike shops for some information, prices, ... One of the things I noticed in the past years is that more and more they try to replace as many parts as possible. For most of those parts I can determine myself if they need replacement. But I have difficulties determining this for rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy and/or quick way to determine the state of the rim without to many special tools (or expensive tools)? What are the minimal tools you need to do this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5151" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T12:19:08.527" Title="How to check for aged/deteriorated weel rims" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-27T11:27:25.287" Score="3" ViewCount="2008" Body="&lt;p&gt;We love to travel by bike. Last summer we did a trip of about 650km on mostly asphalted roads (with quite some medium long climbs and descends) with our son in a bike trailer (type Croozer, see picture below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Gcbo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Croozer Kid for 2&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During this trip we had to change the outer tires of the cart two times. The first change could be related to previous use (intensively used for commuting), but after another 400km we had to change them again due to wear (all rubber deteriorated on the outer tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see on the picture above the cart has wheels that are a bit tilted, making it more stable. We noticed that the wear appeared not in the middle of the tires but more towards the inside (due to this tilting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cart is coupled to our bikes with a kind of spring mechanism, which allows free rotation in all directions and some vertical and horizontal movement. The spring has some negative effects. You notice the effect of that when braking (the cart itself has no brakes). Going downhill the cart tries to break out. Would changing this to a ball hitch contribute in solving my problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels each have their own axle that makes it easier to remove the wheels. This is handy when taking it on a train or parking it somewhere (you can lock the cart to a post and remove one wheel so nobody can ride away with it). However, due to this system there is a little bit of play on the axles. The tires are size &lt;code&gt;20 x 1.75&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4h3Qj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Details on the link to the bike, tires and weels&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wear on the outer tires makes it difficult to take longer trips because you need to take spare outer tires for every 400km you plan to do. I was wondering if I could make adjustments to this trailer in order to improve the lifetime of the outer tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wear was a lot slower when using it for commuting (no steep descends on the road) compared to our holiday trip (climbs and descends of 5%, load at 80% of the max load allowed by the manufacturer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sheldonbrown.com&lt;/a&gt; already helps a bit in determining the tire pressure. I think I will inflate them a little bit less. I always used maximum pressure (4 bar, 60 Psi) so I would need less force to pull the cart. However this can contribute to faster wear apparently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trikes and two-wheel trailers are very different from bikes, because they don't lean in corners. Most tire wear comes from cornering forces. On a bike, these forces act on different parts of the tread, according to how far one leans into various corners at various speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a trailer or trike, all of the wear is concentrated on the middle of the tread. If you overinflate the tires, you'll be riding on only the very center of the tread, and it will wear rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, wheel alignment is never going to be perfect. As a result, the paired tires will always &amp;quot;scrub&amp;quot; a bit. If the tires are rock-hard, this will cause rapid wear. If the tires are softer, they can flex slightly sideways to accommodate the scrub, without wearing the tread off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I want to improve lifetime further. Which steps can I take next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5151" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T23:48:55.240" Title="Croozer bike trailer optimalisation for less tire detoriation" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;wear&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24196" CreationDate="2014-11-27T11:35:47.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A comfortable solution we used was to use a sort of hammock for our son. The model of trailer we have is a Croozer Kid, which offers a hammock that fits it frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hammock is attached to the top bar of the trailer, the front bar and the back bar. The third link to the back bar is needed to reduce bouncing. In between this triangle you can then span your fabric, with two soft bars on the side. In the hammock is a 5-point harness to strap the kids safe and tight. Below is a picture of the commercial model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/35UY7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example hammock for a baby in a trailer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5151" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T11:35:47.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25848" CreationDate="2014-11-27T12:19:08.527" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheel should &lt;strong&gt;run true&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;radially (up/down)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;axially (sideways)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and &lt;strong&gt;should not be twisted&lt;/strong&gt; (as each spoke applies force at its eyelet, a weakened rim might twist, and this twist might not be noticed whilst truing out axial deflections).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The form of the &lt;strong&gt;bead interface should be consistent, no dents&lt;/strong&gt; in any direction (unless the rim is for tubular &quot;stick-on&quot; tyres, in which case it would not have a bead seat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rim has a braking surface, it may have featured &lt;strong&gt;wear indicators&lt;/strong&gt;. These would be either square-edged grooves or cylindrical indents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the &lt;strong&gt;braking surface has become concave&lt;/strong&gt;, the rim wall connecting the bead interface to the well of the rim (where the spokes end) &lt;strong&gt;might be dangerously thin&lt;/strong&gt;. A failure here would be characterised by a sudden separation of a metallic ribbon as the bead interface succumbs to the force applied by the tyre pressure, and the tube would expand through this new opening until the tension in the rubber exceeds its strength or the sharp edges of the broken metal pierce the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;metal surrounding each eyelet should not be deformed&lt;/strong&gt;. A wheel that has been repeatedly trued may have excessive tension on some of its spokes. A wheel with insufficient tension would not distribute loads appropriately as it rolls, causing spoke tension to fall an rise. Changes in tension cause deformation in the rim and spoke. Metals have a finite capacity for load cycles, ending with a fatigue failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rim may &lt;strong&gt;tear at an eyelet&lt;/strong&gt;, allowing the nipple to pull through and causing a sudden change in the tension distribution of the wheel, which may deflect enough to cause contact with the brake or frame. A complete localised loss of tension may also result in a load exceeding the capacity of an unsupported rim section, resulting in a catastrophic failure of the wheel and sudden changes to the trajectory of the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T12:19:08.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25849" CreationDate="2014-11-27T14:03:49.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;400 km on asphalt seems ridiculously low on any bicycle tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try some tough and very durable touring/commuter tires, like the Schwalbe Marathon line. On a bicycle, you should be getting well over 10k miles on those, though due to the smaller wheels on a trailer, you will likely get something less (a friend of mine who uses a recumbent trike gets approximately 2.5k miles on a set). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, try to ride smoothly - if for example you're skidding the wheels, then you'll also wear the tires out unnecessarily. It would also be good if you posted how the tires were getting worn down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T14:03:49.120" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25849" CreationDate="2014-11-27T16:54:57.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first suspicion would be the alignment on the wheels, if they are not properly aligned then they will wear, but I'm not certain what you can do to adjust the alignment on that trailer. Check the dish of the rims and also make sure that they are true, this may affect how the alignment and how the wheels roll and wear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tires are only wearing on the insides, then rotating them is definitely an option. Swap the tire around on the rims so that the unworn side is on the inside, this may affect how the tires grip the road if they are directional, but you might lengthen their life a bit longer by evenly wearing out the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T16:54:57.880" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-27T17:05:09.430" Score="3" ViewCount="1641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read in many different places that if you take a hub apart and see damage on the cups, cones, or bearings (may god have mercy on you if your cups are damaged) That they must be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a used bike that had a lot of miles on it. There was a tiny bit of damage on the cones in the rear hub, concentrated within about 1/8 of the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems to make sense: The wheel spun very freely, so it was well-tuned, and the top of the cones took very little wear. The damage developed where the rider's weight was: on the bottom 1/8 of the cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering if I can get away with simply rotating the axle so that the cones have the damaged side up, and the good side down. That way the damaged side will be supporting an insignificant amount of weight (and not messing the balls up), and my ball bearings will have the pressure on them while they're rolling over the good part of the cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that sound like a hack that will work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2014-11-28T21:11:08.690" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T21:11:08.690" Title="Continuing to use damaged cones in rear hub?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25808" CreationDate="2014-11-27T17:33:55.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you're doing is great, but that you need to keep at it. I used to do exactly this, every day, regardless of weather or whether I wanted to or not, and I kept it up for about two years. My trips were about 6km total each day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess though is that this was some kind of situation where it doesn't normally fit your schedule, so you're just not fit enough to attempt it on a regular basis. I used to bike in much colder temperatures than this, but mind you, it was also without the kids. The only differences I noticed were that I had to take the trip slower in winter, because snow affected balance and resistance. Biking at breakneck speed like I do all summer long is suicidal, or at the very least, going to result in several crashes. And there's also the snow to contend with, and the extra resistance that imparts on the bike, although you never mention that in your post I'd just as soon assume it's there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a cold bike isn't that much of a hindrance, assuming that you're on dry, sanded  pavement the whole time. I'd be more concerned with the extra effort required to push through snow and your fitness level. Being off your bike for two whole months is going to have a significant effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2442" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T17:33:55.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25860" CreationDate="2014-11-27T19:49:22.870" Score="9" ViewCount="13276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most biking accident stories (ignoring collisions) that I hear about involve squeezing the frontbrake too hard and flipping over, often when biking on a downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/25342/13145&quot;&gt;this fellow's story&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I commute to work a few miles on my bike in the city. Today someone&#xA;  walked out in front of me and I squeezed the brakes too hard and went&#xA;  over the handlebars. I suffered a mild elbow fracture because I put my&#xA;  arms out in front of me and the palms of my hands are destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my own experience, I've also pretty bad accidents with the front brake:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was biking downhill (perhaps too fast), and hit the front brake. I&#xA;  then went flying Superman-style, while watching my bike turn at least&#xA;  three complete somersaults out of the corner of my eye. Not fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question is -- why do we need front brakes? Since my accident, I've rarely (if ever) used my front brake, and I bike just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also been very puzzled to rent bikes somewhere, and find that the bikes &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; had front brakes -- in my opinion, back brakes are much safer to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what do we need front brakes for?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13145" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T00:42:39.187" Title="Why do we need front brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;front&gt;&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25856" CreationDate="2014-11-27T20:13:13.603" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So what do we need front brakes for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need them for maximum braking efficiency and better control of the bike. Your question is flawed in the sense that it only has anecdotes from unskilled riders. Let's see some similar examples of equipment misuse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;why do we have a rear brakes? They are not efficient and last time a friend of mine used it, the bike skidded and lost control of the bike, fell on the ground and broke his foot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;why do we have shifter levers? Last time I used them (while standing and pedaling very hard) the chain broke and I went over the bars landing teeth-first on the ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;why do we have axle bolts instead of having the axle permanently fixed on the fork and chainstays? My brother went on a ride but his front axle nuts were lοose. Mid-ride his front wheel came off and he crashed badly injuring his nose and his Top Gun Aviator Sunglasses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;why do the drivetrain chainrings have teeth? My fiance rode my bike while wearing her wedding dress and it got jammed between the chainring and chain, ripping it apart. This cost me $2000.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;why do we have... &lt;em&gt;(ok, you get the point)&lt;/em&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2014-11-27T21:10:13.173" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T21:10:13.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25856" CreationDate="2014-11-27T20:29:36.103" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have front brakes in order to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an emergency stop there is hardly any weight on the rear tire, and the rear wheel has very little traction.  In each of these cases, the bike would not have stopped where it did, and there are certainly situations where rolling further would be more dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a proper technique which is get back and low, bracing with your arms.  This reduces the chance of a header.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On pavement the other trick is to use 90% front 10% back.  If the back starts to slip then you are getting close to flipping, and should ease off the front slightly.  Don't just slam on the front brake, modulate it.  The more you use the front the more practice you'll have at controlling how hard you brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T20:29:36.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25856" CreationDate="2014-11-27T21:27:26.430" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you need to separate operator error from optimal mechanical functioning.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Mechanical advantage&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By your own anecdotal evidence you have demonstrated how powerful front brakes can be.  In short we have front brakes because they are the most powerful brake. When a bike (or any vehicle) decelerates weight is shifted to the front wheel.  Because bicycle tires work through static friction, and static friction is proportional to the force applied, under braking conditions the front wheel will have the most traction (assuming no additional forces, such as turning are applied).  By contrast the harder you brake the less force is applied to the rear wheel and the static friction of the rear tire decreases. As a result the harder you brake, the less traction the rear wheel has, which reduces maximal stopping force (a bit of a negative feedback loop going on here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem as you identify is not with the physics behind the inclusion of the front brake but operator error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Correct Operation&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your anecdotal stories indicate that many bicycle operators are unfamiliar proper body position during emergency braking. If you learn to move your weight back (ideally behind your saddle) during strong braking then going over the handle bars is nearly impossible (except under very steep hills).  On the flat, with correct body position, it is possible to break traction with the front wheel before going over the handle bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue then becomes one of education.  In essence you are asking whether front brakes should be removed because sufficient education on how to operate a bicycle is lacking for many.  That is a political question and is unclear if a &quot;right&quot; answer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Physics fun&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Event though a wheel is rolling traction is governed by the laws of static friction. When part of the tire touches the ground, it is not sliding across the ground (usually). From a physics perspective this can be considered a body a &quot;rest&quot; – as strange as that sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resistive force observed in a body at rest  is defined as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;F&lt;sub&gt;s&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; ≤ &lt;strong&gt;μ&lt;/strong&gt; * &lt;strong&gt;F&lt;sub&gt;n&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where &lt;strong&gt;F&lt;sub&gt;s&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is the resistive force, &lt;strong&gt;μ&lt;/strong&gt; is the coefficient of friction and &lt;strong&gt;F&lt;sub&gt;n&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is the normal force.  The normal force is the force applied perpendicularly to the measured resistive force, on an incline the normal force is less than on a flat surface.  The resistive force (&lt;strong&gt;F&lt;sub&gt;s&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;) can range from zero to a maximum of &lt;strong&gt;μ&lt;/strong&gt; * &lt;strong&gt;F&lt;sub&gt;n&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resistive force is what does the braking or turning.  If braking or cornering exceeds the resistive force your tire slides. The coefficient of friction is related to factors such as tire compound, tire pressure and road surface.  The act of braking will not change it (unless you exceed the resistive force).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under braking  &lt;strong&gt;F&lt;sub&gt;n&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; increases for the front wheel and decreases for the rear wheel due to the weight shift. As such the maximal braking force that can be applied increase for front wheel and decreases for the rear wheel the harder you brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you are not throwing other variables in, such as rider weight distribution (i.e., too much weight up front), changing road conditions, and exceeding a tires maximal resistive force (doing so no the front will make you crash).  The front wheel is the best place to focus braking forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="10856" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T15:33:37.577" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T15:33:37.577" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25849" CreationDate="2014-11-27T22:34:36.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often the tires included with the trailers are low quality and will wear quite quickly especially with heavier loads (personal experience). If you simply bought the same tires as the manufacturer included with your trailer as the replacements your problem will persist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, you may want to consider determining the tire size (should be printed on the side of the tire) and purchasing some higher quality tires from a manufacture known for reasonably good quality tires.  For example, Schwalbe sell a variety of tire sizes for their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/big_apple&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;big apple&lt;/a&gt; tire which wears reasonably well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T22:34:36.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25854" CreationDate="2014-11-27T23:09:46.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt; it would not work. The pitt didn't form just because it was on the bottom, the pitt formed either because the cone came loose, or an abrasive got into the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an equal amount of force being applied to the top of the cone as there is to the bottom when your hubs are &lt;em&gt;properly adjusted&lt;/em&gt;. Think of the components in a hub as a stack, the cup is both the top &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; bottom of the stack, and the balls and cone are sandwiched in the middle, put some weight on the top of the stack and the force is going to be evenly distributed through everything. Your theory would only work if you left some play in the hub, which would only destroy the cones faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the cones and balls, they're cheap, and I imagine that you don't want to have a reputation of being a &lt;em&gt;hack&lt;/em&gt; mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2014-11-28T16:26:01.707" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T16:26:01.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25856" CreationDate="2014-11-28T00:58:36.333" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are more factors than just the front brake that contribute to the flipping accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I myself got into the accident once. It happens so fast that you never have time to lean your body backwards and provide more tractions for the rear wheel like other have stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should list some of the factors that contribute to the 'flipping'-style accidents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braking&#xA;: like other said, if you slam on the front brake, the momentum you have built up moment before the accident is still there. This momentum is transferred mostly to the handle bars. There is a net torque that flip the bicycle (assuming wheel is stationary at the moment of flipping, which is true, because that's how you flip a bike), the horizontal force from your momentum to your handlebar force the bike to rotate. &lt;strong&gt;In common sense, you can try this by apply front brake, and push the bar horizontally and see how easy it is to flip the bicycle.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cycling positions&#xA;: aggressive position (racing) will contribute more torque on the bicycle at the moment of flipping because your whole body can only be stopped through the handlebar. On mountain bike, the momentum partly transferred to seat and pedal as a result from a more up-right pedalling position.&#xA;Remember that your body is about 3-5 times the weight of the bicycle, and they are on top of the bike. So the higher you are from the ground, the easier for you to toppled up. Note: this has something to do with the handlebar position as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Handlebar position&#xA;: believe it or not, the height and angle of the handle bar from the ground also determine how easy you can flip your bike. The more backward, the better; the lower, the better chance for not flipping your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speed&#xA;: obviously it is related to your body momentum.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eHPiq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Diagram of force and torque on bike when braking&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear braking:&#xA;When braking, with only rear brake, it loses traction. The reason is when you decelerate, your momentum carry forward into the handle bar, slightly lifted the bike (flipping forward). That is why the rear always loses traction first when you decelerates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's next?&#xA;When you lose your braking on the rear wheel, only braking in the front helps you escaping catastrophic accident. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What cause the flipping? &#xA;Your momentum still carry forward, and is resisted by wherever you can hold on to your bike. Unfortunately, it is the handlebar mostly. So when you decelerate hard enough (or more accurately, the bike decelerate enough), the torque from your remained momentum wins over the torque produced by your weight (Note: pivot is at the contact between the ground and front wheel). &lt;strong&gt;That is your rarest moment of experiencing the being superman, flying over a road of Kryptonite.  Make a good memory of it!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Side story&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more underlying causes for the flipping. For example, my most recent accident, I was braking fine, until the car still decided to make me swerve even more. So braking with swerving is pretty much asking for a &quot;failed aero-flip&quot;. You lose traction of the front wheel, you lose the balance of the whole bike, you .. well, pretty much have nothing left to hang on to except &quot;Let it go&quot;. Prepare your mental for the shock, check your fingers if you can still feels it, then your toes; bring your finger and move around your visions to make sure you have no double-vision. Ask for helps!&#xA;Oh gosh, I just want to hug whoever have a flipping bicycle accident if I have a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="10856" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T00:42:39.187" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T00:42:39.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25865" CreationDate="2014-11-28T02:30:14.630" Score="0" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've searched and only found &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5713/how-do-you-protect-your-bike-from-scratches&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/21121/protecting-carbon-bike-frame-after-a-small-chip&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. But what I am really after is on a solution on how to cover/protect the underside of your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a carbon road bike with mostly a white painted scheme throughout the bottom side and it's starting to show small chips already. Is there some form of transparent coating (think PU or some other stick on plastic) that I could use, later remove once too damaged and replace again to give my frame more life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestion appreciated. Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T02:57:22.647" Title="How to protect underneath the frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;protection&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25864" CreationDate="2014-11-28T02:50:17.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/factory-effex-frame-protection-material/rp-prod39319&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Factory Effex Frame Protection Material&lt;/a&gt;, It's a vinyl that you just stick to you frame. You can get it in Black, &lt;strong&gt;Clear&lt;/strong&gt;, or Carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wy4eq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T02:50:17.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25849" CreationDate="2014-11-28T14:16:18.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is not scrub a bit - that is scrub a lot.  I don't agree a softer tire will not scrub.  Yes a softer tire will give bit but then it has no option but to scrub.   With no load I suspect the wheels are not aligned perfectly and then those short short axles play. A little play on that short radius is a lot of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get you like the portability of the short axles but for long trips go with a trailer with a solid single axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This diagram is the trailer being pull toward this line of text.  When you brake it is like pushing the trailer and the play would go opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This play is exaggerated but the purpose is to show how much play affects alignment.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3IHAE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-28T15:22:48.637" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T15:22:48.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25869" CreationDate="2014-11-28T14:54:24.553" Score="2" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a CX bike that i would like to put on a turbo trainer. The bike is Boardman CX Comp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question i have is what turbo training tire could i put on my wheels Mavic XM319?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current tires are Schwalbe Tyrago Kevlar Guard 700 x 37c what tires could replace these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tire options do i have and am i limited to what turbo trainer i can use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have yet to try any tire and i have tried to google to get an answer but dont fully understand the reply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14577" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T00:17:17.670" Title="What Turbo Tyre On CX Bike" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25867" CreationDate="2014-11-28T15:32:35.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the turbo trainer for the size wheels they support. &#xA;There are turbo trainer specific tires but you can train on a regular tire. &#xA;Just google &quot;bicycle tire for turbo trainer&quot;. &#xA;You have 700 rim = 622 iso.&#xA;At CX races I see riders warming up on turbo trainers with the knobby tires they are going to race with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-11-28T15:38:07.937" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T15:38:07.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25867" CreationDate="2014-11-28T16:22:48.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, you can use any 700c trainer tire like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicycle_de_en/themes/race/hometrainer_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Continental Hometrainer&lt;/a&gt; , &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vittoria.com/tire/zaffiro-pro-home-trainer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vittoria Zaffiro Pro Home Trainer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://kurtkinetic.com/products/trainer-tires/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kurt Kinetic's Trainer tire&lt;/a&gt;, etc. Most come in 700x23, but some come in larger sizes (700x32 for example for the Continental Hometrainer). You can also just use a regular tire on a trainer, but the tire will wear out faster due to the additional heat versus the road. On a road, you &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;don't want to go too far from a particular range of widths&lt;/a&gt; due to either flats or handling issues, but since you're bolted into a trainer, theres not a problem in using a smaller 700c tire on the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for trainers you can use, pretty much any trainer supports 700c, but as always, check the specifications for the one you're going to buy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T16:22:48.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25856" CreationDate="2014-11-28T16:28:04.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the other answers, there is one big one: legality. For example, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclegermany.com/german_bicycle_laws.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Germany&lt;/a&gt;, you are required to have two independent braking systems. The easiest way to achieve this (esp. on bicycles which have freewheels) is to put one brake in the front and one brake in the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T16:28:04.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25827" CreationDate="2014-11-28T17:06:16.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have rented a medium frame hard tail 29er silverback with deore drive train and was not surprised. You guys were right, tight corners were really hard to handle at first, gut some bruises to realize it as well. But later on it became much easier. I was clumsy at first (it was a huge transition from 26&quot;), and I could feel an added weight compared to 26ers. In drops, there were not much of a problem, it was basically the same, just apply the same techniques. In my whole 1day experience, I would say a little more practice and I would surely get used to it as my cornering with the 29er rapidly improved during several runs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have made my decision and will take the 29er giant revel 1 next week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you guys! Tell you all about it next week&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14553" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T17:06:16.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-28T17:12:35.423" Score="1" ViewCount="15086" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Shimano RD-5700 105 Rear Derailleur (10-Speed, GS Medium Cage, Black).   I bought it to use on my 9 speed bike, but now what to add new shifters (3x10).  My bike shop wants to replace the cassette and chain, which I have done.   But Rear Derailleur, he wants me to replace as well.  I disagree, but I need to show him in writing.   Please post the web link or manual.   (I am an America in Spain trying to demonstrate to my Spanish bike store).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14580" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T17:44:13.807" Title="Can a 10 speed rear derailleur be modified for 9 speed and then modified again to a 10 speed deraileur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25856" CreationDate="2014-11-29T01:44:50.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to YouTube and search &quot;essential mountain biking skills&quot;. Its the best technical skills tutorial I've watched. They'll also teach you how to break properly going downhill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my personal opinion? 60% front 40% rear, and never lean forward. Keep your head high, body low, heels dipped, flex you knees, then slowly press the rear brake following the front brake, and both (again 60% front 40% rear). Feel your center of gravity, and balance it out using your body and brakes. Always relax and breathe going downhill and ONLY use the brakes if needed. As much as possible, get your technical skills on, and view the tracks ahead while going downhill to prevent unnecessary use of brakes. Always prepare 3 meters in advance, and only brake coming in to roll-offs, drops, and very tight turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14553" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T21:19:03.330" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T21:19:03.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25864" CreationDate="2014-11-29T02:57:22.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use hockey tape to protect my right chain stay from chain slap. One inch wide by 98 feet of tape for less than 3 bucks! Should work well for what you need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hockeymonkey.com/hockeytape.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hockeymonkey.com/hockeytape.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14583" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T02:57:22.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25849" CreationDate="2014-11-29T03:36:42.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the alignment of the wheels, one needs to consider the alignment of the tongue.  The pivot point where the tongue attaches to the bike should be exactly along the centerline of the trailer (even if the tongue is not attached to the center of the trailer), not off to one side.  If the tongue (at the pivot point) is not centered then you are dragging the trailer sideways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2014-11-29T17:23:11.527" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T17:23:11.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-29T17:09:52.047" Score="0" ViewCount="5239" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is for the Freewheel (Not Cassette Freehub) swapping problem.&#xA;I would like to know if it is feasible, regarding the axle breakage. &#xA;Assuming that I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good clearance and spacing for freewheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Matching derailleur and chain/chain line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it be likely for me to break the axle, or the hub, under power&#xA;pedalling?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have anyone broke their hub or axle using freewheel with&#xA;inappropriate speed? (Please do not discuss in theory, I would like&#xA;to see reference or your own experience)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2014-11-29T19:45:36.400" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T19:45:36.400" Title="Freewheel: 8-speed to replace 6-speed" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25876" CreationDate="2014-11-29T17:30:35.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before we get into axle breakage, let's discuss your &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;axle spacing&lt;/a&gt;, which probably isn't going to work going from a 6spd to an 8spd cassette unless you install a new, longer axle with more spacers, and you'll need to re-dish the wheel slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of breakage, I've seen all speeds of freewheel axles break over time. Freewheel hubs' axles are just more likely to break because of the leverage you can get over the axle. Here's a great diagram that illustrates this point:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gTyFG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red circles are where the bearings brace against the axle. The drive side of a freewheel hub has a lot more axle acting as a lever than does a cassette hub, and this is the primary reason they break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is an 8spd spaced freewheel hub more likely to break than a 6spd spaced freewheel hub? Yes it is, but marginally. Even working in a shop for years, I cant say that I saw a statistically significant sample of broken axles come through to say that 8 speeds broke more often than 6 speeds- probably the opposite as the 6 speed hubs were older and had seen more use. The bigger comparison here is freewheel vs cassette wheels, and I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt that cassette hubs hold up better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a cassette hub isn't what you're looking to use though, I would say don't concern yourself with the increased likelihood of axle breakage when going from 6spd to 8spd. You're probably going to be less likely to break the axle, assuming you buy a new axle for the conversion as you'll be starting over again on the fatigue life for the axle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T17:30:35.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25872" CreationDate="2014-11-29T17:44:29.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no modification to be done. You can use a 10spd Shimano derailleur with 9spd or 10spd components no problem. If they're telling you that they need to &quot;modify&quot; your 10 speed derailleur because you were previously using it with 9 speed components, bid them good day and go find another shop. However I don't think that's what they're concerned with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're going to be running a 3x10 setup, my guess is that the reason your bike shop wants to replace your derailleur is the cage length of the current derailleur that you have. 3x10 gives you the widest gear ranges, but with wider gear ranges come longer cages to account for larger &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailleur.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;capacity&lt;/a&gt;, that is the derailleur's ability to take up or deal out extra chain between gearing extremes (big-big, small-small, or close to either). Too short caged of a derailleur can cause the chain to lose tension when nearing the small-small combination, or cause the bike to be unable to shift into gear combinations approaching big-big at all. Neither one of those are a good situation and can potentially damage your bike's drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're running a 3x10 setup, you likely need at least a medium cage derailleur. If you're running a dinner plate on the back (read: cassette with very low gearing, likely 29t or larger) you may actually need a long cage derailleur, or a mountain bike derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastEditorUserId="2598" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T17:44:13.807" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T17:44:13.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25876" CreationDate="2014-11-29T19:25:17.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done the six to eight conversion on an older road bike. By the way I have broken two seven speed rear mountain bike axles. So it does happen. I went with a mountain size (14-32) gear range. I added flat bars and rapid fire shifters. The larger gear range allows me to climb easier than the old 12-25 freewheel did. As @joelmdev stated, I did change the axle spacers. The axle was long enough to reuse without replacement. The frame required some hand spreading to fit. I think the key is to realize the limitation of the drivetrain. You need to use the gearing to keep from overloading the axle. I would not take it on anything rougher than a gravel road. Unless you have a bunch of parts laying around it may be cheaper to find a used wheel with cassette. Also consider the added cost of the freewheel tool (maybe two of them if the brands are not compatible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T19:25:17.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-29T20:40:23.407" Score="-3" ViewCount="1130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I want to buy this used giant escape 3 for a good price but the frame size seems to be a bit big. It is a shame though, Because it's at a great price. I am 5'7 and the Frame size is 23 inches. The previous owner says is also 5'7 and it fit her perfectly. Would it be a mistake if I bought this bike.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14588" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T21:20:31.873" Title="What is the correct frame size for me?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25884" CreationDate="2014-11-29T21:13:38.363" Score="21" ViewCount="7484" Body="&lt;p&gt;With equal power to weight ratio, why is a tandem bike harder to ride uphill? I have friends whose Cannondale tandem bike weighs the same as their single rider bikes combined. But they find it easier to climb hills (compared to the bunch) on single rider bikes than on the tandem. They are experienced tandem riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13433" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T10:03:12.530" Title="Why is a tandem harder to ride uphill than a single rider bike?" Tags="&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25880" CreationDate="2014-11-29T21:20:31.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frame sizing is a somewhat complicated issue.&lt;/a&gt; Basically, the only way to know for sure if any bike will fit you is to give it a test ride. This is especially true of one that is questionable from the get-go. There are two big reasons for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different people have different proportions. Just because someone is the same height as you doesn't necessarily mean that you'll both ride the same size frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different bikes have different geometries. This means that two bikes that are both the same size may fit you differently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're unable to test ride it, measure your &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_st-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;standover height&lt;/a&gt; and compare it to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/escape.3/14810/75681/#geometry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike's specs&lt;/a&gt;. This won't give you a certain answer about whether or not it &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; fit, but it will tell you if it definitely &lt;em&gt;won't&lt;/em&gt; fit. If the standover height is too high, the bike will never fit. But if the standover height is ok, you can usually (but not always) make changes elsewhere (different length or angle in the stem, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seatpost#Offset.2FLayback&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;different seatpost offset&lt;/a&gt;, etc.) to make the bike fit reasonably well. Again, you really need to test ride it to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T21:20:31.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25881" CreationDate="2014-11-29T22:32:53.693" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When climbing a hill on single it is normal to rock the bike side-to-side as you climb.  This rarely matches exactly for both riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's similar to the way people run slower in a three legged race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastEditorUserId="13745" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T20:21:56.043" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T20:21:56.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25881" CreationDate="2014-11-30T00:25:06.100" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone climbs at their own best rate and cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a tandem, both riders have to ride at the same rate and cadence, which will be closest to those of the strongest rider. So neither of them are climbing at their best rate and cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a tandem with &lt;em&gt;very well matched riders&lt;/em&gt;, they are in fact quicker, largely due to the draughting effect of the two riders being so close together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if the hill is so steep that the riders would have to stand, it becomes a matter of rider skills. Many tandem riders struggle to master the two-person coordination of efforts required to make the transition to the standing position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T00:25:06.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-30T03:19:03.530" Score="0" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using my old Trek Postal (5200/5400) as my winter beater. I'd like to test some studded tires, such as the Schwalbe Winter700x30 Wire but I'm not sure if the 30's will fit as the largest I've ridden to date is a 25 (or 27?).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ridden a 30 or know how to determine if they'll fit, especially with the aggressive tread and studs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Matt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire for reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00AAZFGVI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AAZFGVI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;colid=313MZ1AZTU1DO&amp;amp;coliid=I19MD4W468VK20&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xWpg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire on Amazon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14299" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T03:41:23.217" Title="What width tires will fit on a 1999 Trek Postal?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25885" CreationDate="2014-11-30T03:41:23.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most frames with caliper brakes can at a maximum take a 28 or really narrow and slick 30 (assuming a modern short reach caliper). A nobby tire will almost certainly not fit regardless of size. if there's a lot of clearance currently ( &gt; 1cm), I would take it to your lbs and check with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10707" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T03:41:23.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25881" CreationDate="2014-11-30T06:43:08.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; harder&lt;/strong&gt; to ride uphill if your captain and stoker are in &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/wgMLyVE6Rdk?t=34s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;perfect unity&lt;/a&gt;. I ride a tandem with my wife a lot, and I find it way easier to climb hills with a stoker than riding single. If you have the proper communication, then it's literally two people riding one bike, which is &lt;em&gt;double&lt;/em&gt; the power of one person riding one bike. The real disadvantage of riding tandem, is &lt;em&gt;drag&lt;/em&gt;, two people and a bigger bike don't cut though the air like one person on a compact frame does. Which is why tandem track-racing times are typically a couple seconds slower than single rider times. Well, that and the fact that tandem track races are typically for disabled people, like at the paralympics, where the stoker is disabled, and the captain isn't allowed to be a pro racer. But on hill climbs, where aerodynamics isn't a factor, tandem racers annihilate single racers on the hill climbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pairs of people may struggle on a tandem because their riding styles are different, as others have mentioned already this only matters if you're doing something like riding out of the saddle, on a tandem bike you can't be two minds, you have to ride as one mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T06:43:08.663" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25881" CreationDate="2014-11-30T08:13:58.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coordination:&lt;/strong&gt; When riding in a group of singles, it can be hard to stay together on a hill climb, because everyone climbs at different paces. It depends on so many factors, weight, gear ratios, preferred cadence, getting out of the saddle when it feels comfortable and so on. Being forced to climb faster or even slower than you'd like to can upset a rider's rhythm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a tandem it's more likely that your hill-climbing rhythm will be awkward. If the captain wants to stand up, the cadence becomes more &quot;stompy&quot;, leaving the stoker feeling they're not able to put much power in. If the stoker stands, they can end up rubbing their face on the captain's back. If they both stand, then the tandem can be hard to control unless the captain is much heavier and stronger than the stoker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power-to-weight ratio:&lt;/strong&gt; A tandem with two light riders feels similar in pace to a single with a heavy rider. Most heavier riders are slower on climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lack of aerodynamic advantage:&lt;/strong&gt; The Coordination factor above is more than compensated for on the flat by a tandem's aerodynamic advantage: 195% power for perhaps 120% aerodynamic drag. However, air resistance is negligible on a climb. It may be that other sources of drag are not reduced so much. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolling resistance may be similar to two singles due to the similar weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T10:03:12.530" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T10:03:12.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-30T13:29:40.543" Score="0" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the bench mount PCS-12 but am looking to convert it to a floor mount.  I haven't been able to find the base for the PCS-10, only the entire unit.  Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14299" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T06:52:36.570" Title="Is there a way to convert the Park PCS-12 to PCS-10?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25900" CreationDate="2014-11-30T15:57:40.670" Score="1" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a stupid question however, I'm pretty sure I took these cranks off my current set up before. I wanted to ask if there is such a thing as a spacer on the bb axel ever that I might be missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano stronglight double crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Square drive BB 68 shell. I'll have to check the axel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually I would presume that the crank axel is too short, but the space between the crank and chainstay is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HudU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67Xud.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7x7t2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T18:28:45.563" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T22:09:42.320" Title="My crankset stops the pedals from turning when I tighten it onto the bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25892" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-30T16:38:25.897" Score="5" ViewCount="8276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why (if you had the choice) would you stay with cantilever brakes and forgo the opportunity to change to a disc set up for racing cyclo cross?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T00:21:42.063" Title="Are there any reasons why you would avoid going disc (other than cost) for racing cyclo cross?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25892" CreationDate="2014-11-30T17:01:18.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One good reason to stick with cantilever is easier wheel swaps. Last weekend races, my son flatted and we did not put spare wheels in the pits. Neutral support had spare wheels and if my son had a disc based bike he would not of been able to use them. Even if neutral support had disc wheels, with differences in rotor size they may not work for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full Disclosure: my next CX will be disc based, I've been through too many rims with brake surface getting dished from grit and grime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T17:01:18.163" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-30T17:10:52.553" Score="0" ViewCount="1709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering the conversion of my flat-bar hybrid bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/escape.3/14810/75681/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GIANT Escape 3&lt;/a&gt;) in to a makeshift road bike, complete with drop bars. However, if the derailleurs have to go, it may not be cost-effective to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Escape comes fitted with Shimano Tourney derailleurs on front and back. They've got white logos on them which say &quot;SIS Index&quot;, as seen in &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/0OyDiHc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this photo&lt;/a&gt; of the front derailleur. I've been led to believe that Shimano drop-bar shifters will be compatible with these. Please corroborate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13631" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T20:08:09.480" Title="Are these SIS Mountain/City Bike Derailleurs compatible with drop-bar shifting?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25894" CreationDate="2014-11-30T17:50:44.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can probably find some 7 speed bar end shifters on ebay or elsewhere. You can use any speed of bar end shifter if you switch them to friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T17:50:44.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25897" CreationDate="2014-11-30T17:52:12.243" Score="1" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it matter if you use a chainring which is specified at 9 / 10 speed with a 8 speed chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T18:17:06.187" Title="Can you use a 9 / 10 speed chainring with an 8 speed chain?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25896" CreationDate="2014-11-30T18:17:06.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are talking about chainring (not sprocket), it should be fine. You should only be worry with an 8- or lower-speed chain on a 9- or more speed freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Chains/Chain_sizes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Chains/Chain_sizes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T18:17:06.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-30T18:21:22.273" Score="4" ViewCount="7313" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first time I saw a Cannondale with a one-sided fork I was in shock &amp;amp; awe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I got to thinking about it, and it seems to me like it's just a marketing strategy, touting the quality and mechanical sophistication of the brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It saves some weight, maybe. But it loses &lt;em&gt;so&lt;/em&gt; much strength. How could it possibly have a better strength/weight ratio than a traditional fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T23:07:48.103" Title="Are single-sided forks a gimmick?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ClosedDate="2014-12-01T21:53:28.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25891" CreationDate="2014-11-30T18:26:10.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are not spacers that can be placed between the axle and the crank.  It's a high stress location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you take the BB out?  Is it in the same position (right-left)?  Does it turn freely with the cranks off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13745" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T18:26:10.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25891" CreationDate="2014-11-30T18:38:43.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no BB Spacer for a square taper crankset (and is a very bad idea to start). &#xA;From the image, it looks like you have an (square) ISO crank on an JIS (low profile) spindle. I can see the outer square of the crank was severely deformed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not much you can do but to start thinking of changing the crankset, or keep holding on to it til the day it depart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWYp9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I missed your question. But before answering, can I ask you to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the crankset touches the BB? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is a dead-lock or a severe friction on the spinning of your crankset? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it makes noise when you try to spin the crankset on the BB?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T22:09:42.320" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T22:09:42.320" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25902" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-30T20:36:45.920" Score="3" ViewCount="1970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a rather generic Merida hardtail mountainbike throughout the year. I don't own a pump with a gauge so I usually pump my tires at gas stations (that have automatic pumps with gauges).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the following: I pump the tubes outdoors, but the bike is stored indoors most of the time. Usually I just fill the tires so that they're a little bit softer than usual as to avoid having too high pressure after the air warms up indoors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a good method to guesstimate how much lower (in bar) the pressure should be related to the norm to accommodate for this change? Is this worth worrying about to begin with?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it matters, the temperature difference between out- and indoors can easily be 35°C (~95°F; -20°C outside, +15°C inside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10694" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T02:33:03.940" Title="How to guesstimate correct tire pressure in the winter?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17927" CreationDate="2014-11-30T21:18:22.803" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Parabolic rollers are really easy once you get the hang of it but normal rollers are like riding on ice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14597" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T21:18:22.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24946" CreationDate="2014-11-30T21:44:49.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the disc is not touching (as you insist) then it must be the bearings. &#xA;Take the disc out or pads out and verify.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more likely scenario is the the disc is indeed touching. &#xA;At speed you get a higher frequency of touching and the materials heat up and expand slightly. &#xA;With the expansion they touch even more and now the touching is audible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T21:44:49.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25902" CreationDate="2014-11-30T21:57:04.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ideal Gas equation: pV=nRT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With +15oC and -20oC the pressure ratio between the two is: p1/p2 = (273+15)/(273-20). Or &lt;strong&gt;13% higher pressure&lt;/strong&gt; when put in the garage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However that is assuming you are pumping it to maximum pressure, that the tyre can no longer (or very slightly) expand, making V (volume) constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the basics for your assumption. However, the tyre would flex and expand ever slightly. So, 5-10% would be good approximation to me, depending on how much you put into the tyre, and how big is your tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saving you all the calculation, I would suggest for &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road tyre : 700x18-24c, 85-90 psi at the gas station (less than 10% of the maximum pressure, &lt;strong&gt;but you need more traction if temperature is less than 0oC&lt;/strong&gt;!!!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MTB tyre: 26x1.2-1.5&quot;, 55-85 psi at gas station&#xA;MTB tyre 26x1.5&quot;+, 20-42 psi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hybrid/CX: 700x24 to 700x40, 45-85 psi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a rough guide, but please make sure you check maximum tyre pressure, then subtract  10% ( just don't do bicycle stunt indoor...) Edit 2: &lt;strong&gt;This is for your maximum Cold-Tyre Pressure only&lt;/strong&gt;. Your target should be within recommended (i.e. Cold-Tyre pressure at recommended pressure and make sure +10% and it should not exceed Maximum pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I believe the answer is 10% more of the recommended pressure would not do any harm if put in the garage (checking a few popular tyre in the shop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=============================&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I have one tyre blown up when I put close to recommended maximum pressure, and let it exposed to the summer sun locking to the pole. It was the loudest bang I have ever heard.. and I would be extra careful from now and then when pumping an old tyre pass recommended pressure (leave alone the maximum recommended)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T00:53:51.623" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T00:53:51.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25894" CreationDate="2014-11-30T22:53:46.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be no problem. Just make sure your &lt;strong&gt;rear-derailleur shifter is 7-speed&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have use this setup in the past&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano Exage 300X 7 speed SIS DT shifters&#xA;Shimano RD-5501 GS 105 9 speed long cage RD&#xA;SunRace 7 speed HG freewheel 13-28t&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and it works&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T22:53:46.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25892" CreationDate="2014-11-30T22:56:35.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic discs self adjust as the pads wear, which may wear significantly during a single race.  I have heard that some pros have avoided switching for this reason, however I believe that the main reason they do not is that they are used to caliper brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not upgrade to mechanical (cable-actuated) discs since they will not self-adjust, and you may find yourself pulling the levers a lot before the pads engage.  I have not ridden a mechanical-caliper bike (cross, MTB or road), so I cannot confirm how they wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The improvement in braking performance with discs is too great to ignore.  Hydraulic discs have unmatched control, so just go for those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14598" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T22:56:35.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25898" CreationDate="2014-11-30T23:07:48.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that their main point is not less weight but more control.  Imagine the normal 2-legged fork: even though the two sides are connected to the same air spring, you could concievably temporarily compress one more than the other, and now your front wheel is no longer pointed in the direction that the handlebars are.  This can only happen if the bridge is flexible, and typical fork bridges are very strong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Lefty avoids this by using a single stanchion, which can only move linearly, but now must be able to support twisting motion.  I do not know if Cannondale has succeeded in making it strong enough, but Leftys have been around for years, so it can't be too far off the mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, note the many schemes for rear suspension.  There are many ways to suspend a bicycle; no single type is so good that all manufacturers must use it.  The same is apparently true for front suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14598" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T23:07:48.103" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25894" CreationDate="2014-11-30T23:58:47.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear derailleur shifter needs to be Shimano compatible (and 7 speed) if you want to use indexing (as always, friction always works), while the front derailleur will need to be replaced with a Shimano road FD or you will need to use friction shifters (bar ends most likely) for the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the bigger problem is the bike fit with these conversions -- the geometry for drop bars is not the same geometry you use for a bike with flat bars for the same person. We've got some good answers on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1136/upgrading-straight-handlebars-to-drop-handlebars/1154#1154&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (particularly the one by sixtyfooterdude). You'll also need Problem Solvers Travel Agents or special brake levers for the linear pull brakes, so in all likelihood you'll spend significantly more than the bike is worth on doing this upgrade (which might not give you good fit) -- you're better off just buying a road bike (in fact, on such a cheap bike like the Escape 3, you're almost surely better off selling the bike and buying a road bike unless all the parts and labor are free &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the result fits you). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T23:58:47.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25902" CreationDate="2014-12-01T00:13:52.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The right answer to this (as with all tire pressure questions) is &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24624/suggested-tire-pressure-for-an-overloaded-bike&quot;&gt;try it out&lt;/a&gt; as the sidewall ratings (and anyone else who gives you an answer with a number in it) is likely giving you nonsense. In fact, you should not be near the max sidewall rating in winter (or in summer) in most cases and thus this is not something you should be worrying about if your pressures are set correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right pressure  depends on what kind of conditions you encounter and the amount of weight on the bike -- the pressure should be high enough to avoid damage due to road hazards / pinch flats and not give excess rolling resistance, but low enough not to give a harsh ride or promote damage when hitting a road hazard or reduce control (overinflated tires are bouncy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In winter, this is especially important depending on your riding conditions. Big tires run at low pressure are good for snow, studded tires for ice also need to be run at low enough pressure for the studs to catch on the ice if they're commuter studded tires, etc. The pressure will almost surely not be the same as the one you're running indoors or in the summer, so its not worth calculating -- you need to go outside and do some experiments to set the tire pressure (it will most likely be lower than your summer pressure). An &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example from Peter White&lt;/a&gt; says that he runs his Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro at 25 psi, for example and recommends no more than 60 psi on the thinnest tire he sells (Nokian A10). This is purely an example though, and you need to validate the tire pressure which works for you in winter on your own; A winter in South Beach (Miami, FL, USA) is well different from a winter in Winnepeg (Manitoba, CA). In the case of South Beach, your winter and summer setups are probably the same. In Winnepeg, well, they'll be very very different (probably fatter lower pressure tires in the winter). Even if the temperatures are the same, you still have the rest of the conditions (cold+dry is very different from cold+wet) affecting your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, invest in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps/JoeBlowSport&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bike floor pump&lt;/a&gt; -- gas station pumps often have poor control of how much air is pumped in relative to the volume of a bicycle tire and can't always reach adequate pressures. Your tires/rims may not like the gas station pump one day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T02:33:03.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-01T10:02:09.617" Score="0" ViewCount="3725" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any full source code sample projects about Raspberry Pi (or another) using it in bicycles ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe interesting for create a dashboard in bike for manage lighting ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://jeremyblythe.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/live-web-bicycle-dashboard-using.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;live web bicycle (gps logging and web dashboard)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/cypherkey/RaspberryPi.Net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RaspberryPi.Net&lt;/a&gt; (not relevant)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14601" LastEditorUserId="5151" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T13:48:00.960" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T13:58:14.073" Title="Use Raspberry Pi (and C#) in a bicycles" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;technology&gt;&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-12-04T23:01:16.893" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25881" CreationDate="2014-12-01T10:19:43.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the stated answers there is also a psychological reason: the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ringelmann_effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ringelmann effect&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more people work together on a task, the less each individuals' effort unconsciously (even if everyone thinks he does his best) becomes. This was first observed on rope pulling and the decrease in performance it is not explainable by synchronisation inefficiency alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This effect applies even for groups of only two people:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Ingham, Levinger, Graves, &amp;amp; Peckman, 1974) attempted to repeat this&#xA;  experiment in 1974 because they were unsure of the early methodology&#xA;  and descriptions of Ringelmann's earlier study. Had groups of 2, 3, 4,&#xA;  5 and 6 perform the rope pulling task. Groups of 2 performed at 91% of&#xA;  potential, 3 at 82%, 4 at 78%, 5 at 78%, 6 at 78%.&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.science.smith.edu/exer_sci/ESS570/Groups/Group_Dynamics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10944" LastEditorUserId="10944" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T12:37:59.183" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T12:37:59.183" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21317" CreationDate="2014-12-01T11:18:23.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to run into the same scenario when I replace my own brake pads on my bike's TRP Spyre mechanical disc brakes. TRP is Tektro's high-end division, and I use Shimano B01S resin pads or anything similarly shaped (TRP says pads for Shimano BR-M515/M575 calipers will fit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cause of the squealing in my experience is &lt;em&gt;the lack of proper bed-in&lt;/em&gt;. Disc brakes (even on cars) work best when there is enough of the brake pad's friction material deposited onto the face of the rotor. When you change and install new brake pads, this synergy is lost. The rotors still have the &quot;memory&quot; of the old brake pad material on their faces, with very tiny imperfections that don't line up with the surface of the new pads, and this is what gives the high-pitched squealing. When you bed in new pads to the rotors, you're effectively scrubbing off the old friction material while replacing it with that of the new pads'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To bed-in new brake pads, find a flat surface or downhill incline where you can build up a bit of speed. Accelerate to about 10 miles an hour, then pull on the levers - smoothly but powerfully - to an almost complete stop. Keep repeating this over and over. With enough cycles you will notice the squealing become less audible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people even resort to sanding of the rotor faces and fresh pads with 100-grit and 220-grit sandpaper in order to get the old friction material off and quicken the whole bed-in process. Be careful handling the brake rotor, though - best to use gloves for this job as skin oils can easily contaminate a rotor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake pads will also naturally bed-in by themselves, but you will have to bear with the screeching that whole time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14602" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T11:18:23.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25911" CreationDate="2014-12-01T13:58:14.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lighting control isn't exactly a good idea since you have 2 lights (front and rear) on a bicycle typically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cycling sensors (cadence, speed, heartrate, etc.) either speak &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thisisant.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ANT+&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bluetooth.com/Pages/Bluetooth-Home.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bluetooth&lt;/a&gt; these days, so if you want to read sensors, you just need to know how to speak ANT+ or Bluetooth in your chosen language. You can also add a GPS module and other things as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People have accessed USB ANT+ sticks in &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.howrandom.net/blog/2012/10/01/monitoring-a-talk-from-pyconuk-2012/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Python&lt;/a&gt; and Bluetooth has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://developer.bluetooth.org/TechnologyOverview/Pages/CSCP.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycling profile&lt;/a&gt; and many people have used Bluetooth with the Raspberry Pi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that many phones have both ANT+ and bluetooth, and have their own built in batteries (and are probably faster than a Raspberry pi) and mobile internet, so if you want to read sensors, they may be better than the raspberry pi. That being said, either of these options will likely be far more battery draining than a cycling computer which provides the same functionality, so I'm guessing this is a project just for fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T13:58:14.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25892" CreationDate="2014-12-01T15:01:42.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Professional cyclo-cross racers choose depending on the type of cross they are riding. On fast tracks or tracks with a lot of climbs they prefer cantilevers. On muddy tracks you see a lot of disk brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember there was a huge discussion about this when they first showed up in the world cup (November 2013). Below some quotes from the leading riders in the UCI ranking at that time on the choice between disk brakes (hydraulic system) and cantilevers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lars van der Haar&lt;/strong&gt; (current Dutch national champion)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Schijfremmen blijven in alle omstandigheden praktisch even goed remmen, terwijl dat bij cantilevers in slechte omstandigheden toch vermindert.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;  (Translation: Disk brakes keep working in all circumstances while cantilevers lose performance in bad conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Niels Albert&lt;/strong&gt; (Two time world champion)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Met schijfremmen kun je kort voor de bocht snel afremmen, terwijl je met de klassieke cantilever-remmen al eerder moet beginnen remmen.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (Translation: with disk brakes you can brake right before the corners, while with cantilevers you need a larger stopping distance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verstraeten, coach of &lt;strong&gt;Sven Nys&lt;/strong&gt; (Two time world champion, current Belgian national champion)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Mijn persoonlijk gevoel is dat schijfremmen ook een voordeel kunnen bieden in de modder. Met remblokjes wordt de remkracht toch beïnvloed door het vuil, bij schijfremmen niet. Maar het hele systeem weegt toch een halve kilogram extra. Het wordt dus afwegen.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (Translation: I personally feel that disk brakes have an advantage in mud. With cantilevers the braking power is influenced by dirt. The disk brake system is about 0.500 kg heavier, so you have to make a check-balance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the highest level, the extra weight of the disk brakes will have impact on the performance of the athletes. I think however that on a recreational level, when there is still a lot of improvement possible on your own weight, overall fitness, .. I would go for disk brakes if cost is not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5151" LastEditorUserId="5151" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T15:14:34.313" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T15:14:34.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-01T20:31:07.667" Score="0" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;got a new set of Shimano A520 SPD Touring Pedals and a pair of &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.polaris-apparel.co.uk/product/SPLINTER&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.polaris-apparel.co.uk/product/SPLINTER&lt;/a&gt; shoes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i cant clip out  once in has anyone had this problem before #amature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14609" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T20:31:07.667" Title="Shimano A520 SPD Touring Pedals cant clip out :-(" Tags="&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-12-02T00:51:09.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25668" CreationDate="2014-12-01T21:59:50.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very large old-fashioned saddlebags might be a go.  They exist.  Brooks stock ones up to 10L in canvas.  Revelate has a more modern underseat &quot;holster&quot; that can take a 14L drybag.  Carradice make up to 24L traditional saddlebags in &quot;100%&quot; waterproofed duck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T21:59:50.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-01T22:09:15.083" Score="6" ViewCount="5945" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, I'm using a front light rated at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Smart-Lunar-Front-Bike-Light/dp/B005GPLYQS/ref=sr_1_1?s=cycling&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1417470992&amp;amp;sr=1-1&quot;&gt;35 lux&lt;/a&gt; on my bike. This is just about bright enough for my riding, but I'd like something a bit brighter. However, most of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=sr_st_price-desc-rank?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;amp;bbn=458384031&amp;amp;qid=1417471333&amp;amp;rh=n%3A318949011%2Cn%3A!319530011%2Cn%3A324144011%2Cn%3A550001011%2Cn%3A458384031%2Cp_36%3A389116011&amp;amp;sort=price-desc-rank&quot;&gt;lights which might be brighter&lt;/a&gt; are rated in lumens, rather than lux.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a physicist by training, so I know the difference between 1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux&quot;&gt;lux&lt;/a&gt; and 1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumen_(unit)&quot;&gt;lumen&lt;/a&gt; and that you can't compare them directly - but that doesn't help me as I do need to compare them somehow. Is there any rule of thumb or &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; that I can use to work out which lights are actually brighter than my current light, or does the beam pattern of lights vary too much for this to be a sensible comparision in any way at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14578" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T20:35:58.873" Title="Is there any rule of thumb for comparing lights rated in lux and lumens?" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25921" CreationDate="2014-12-01T23:00:35.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming it is intended to throw a 1 m^2 patch in front of your bike suggests it may be a ~35 lumen or so light.  I think you'd be safe in looking for 100 lumen (or greater) light to replace with.  Looking at that price range, I'd think those were reasonable assumptions to make.  Unfortunately, without knowing how large a patch it it intending to throw, you'll never be able to make a direct comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T23:00:35.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25921" CreationDate="2014-12-01T23:10:25.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you're going to be able to do any reasonable conversion, since lux without a distance is meaningless. It's likely that the manufacturer has picked lux specifically to make it sound impressive, or possibly even to make it hard to compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a nice description of the (optional) standard: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.led-resource.com/ansi-fl1-standard/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.led-resource.com/ansi-fl1-standard/&lt;/a&gt;. One of the possible measures in that standard is the distance at which the light is 0.25 lux. Another is the candela (peak beam intensity). And, of course, there's always lumens (total output). Lumens seem to be the favorite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of trying to compare the brightness of your current light, I recommend visiting this great light comparison site (which originally started from some posts on our blog): &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikelightdatabase.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.bikelightdatabase.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, the beamshot photos on that site are super-useful. There can be big differences between lights that use the same measurement (usually lumens) and being able to look at what that looks like on a stretch of road is amazingly helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T00:40:13.407" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T00:40:13.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-01T23:33:12.150" Score="1" ViewCount="2917" Body="&lt;p&gt;For christmas, my wife picked me up an Elite Qubo Fluid trainer. It comes with a quick release skewer and nuts. However, my bike currently has a QR. On a whim, I checked and the stock QR bolt from my bike (GT Transeo 2.0) fits in the slots of the trainer. It seems to work with no problems. The shape is the same of the nuts holding the skewer in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to replace the skewer with the one provided by the trainer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I DO need to replace the QR with the one from the trainer, what sort of lubricant should I use? I keep seeing mention of &quot;oil&quot; or &quot;grease&quot; but I can't find out what specific type of oil or grease (for instance, I highly doubt teflon oil or white lithium grease would be appropriate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14610" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T00:09:01.843" Title="Do I need to use the QR Skewer that came with my trainer? What sort of lubricant do I need to use?" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25921" CreationDate="2014-12-02T00:00:44.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is an inexpensive light that runs on 2 AA batteries. And has a narrow beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than focus on getting something just a &quot;little&quot; brighter if you want to stay cheap just buy a second AA light and use both.  Or get a second of the same.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or step up to more expensive rechargeable lithium ion light.  It will be brighter.  Focus on reviews.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T00:00:44.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25924" CreationDate="2014-12-02T00:09:01.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should use the QR skewer which came with the trainer for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Its cheap and ruining it (rather than your own skewer) will keep your nice skewer which came with the bike in good condition. It may also be stronger than your (possibly boutique) skewer in the trainer. (Safety) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It has markings which can help bite into the cups of the trainer which attach to the skewer. (Safety)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Liability -- the manufacturer said to put it there. If you don't, you're SOL if it goes wrong with the skewer. Plus, it takes about 5 seconds to swap the skewers so why not do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, as you found out, many enclosed cam QR skewers will fit into trainers, but why risk it? I would not recommend it (as the trainer manufacturer probably wouldn't either). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lubrication of the QR skewer is for the cam - you don't need to do anything for a new skewer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T00:09:01.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-02T02:35:38.470" Score="0" ViewCount="1030" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty simple question I hope. I picked up a Bontrager Trip 3 because I saw it recommended several times for rear mounting (this is on a bike that will sit on a trainer). However, I am finding that there is nowhere on the rear portion of the body that puts the speedometer sensor close enough to the spokes of my wheel for it to sense the magnet as it travels. The only place I've found that might work is on the plastic sheath around the brake line near the rear disk brake. It looks like it requires about 1-3mm distance to be able to pick up the magnet - there's almost nowhere on my bike's body that comes that close to the spokes. The brake line sheath isn't very stable (it's just hard plastic) but it seems to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other option would be about 1&quot; of shimming near where I have the cadence sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seatstays and chainstays for the bike are extremely wide because of disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14610" LastEditorUserId="14610" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T02:56:55.677" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T11:38:42.177" Title="Can I put the speedometer sensor for my cycle computer on my rear brake line?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25890" CreationDate="2014-12-02T06:52:36.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're not going to be able to buy just the floor stand without the clamp unless you chance to buy one at a yard sale or on ebay, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to contact Park Tool and ask them if they can send you just the floor stand without the clamp as a replacement part, but I doubt it for that particular stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to just buy the new stand, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000OZFJS4/ref=s9_simh_gw_p200_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=1MJA9892FV97DZRSYTA8&amp;amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=1947489602&amp;amp;pf_rd_i=915398&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;amazon sells them&lt;/a&gt; for $90 less than their listed price. And you can get them for even cheaper than that on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Park-Tool-PCS-10-Home-Mechanic-Bicycle-Bike-Repair-Stand-/331258450458?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item4d208ad21a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ebay&lt;/a&gt;. Then you can keep you bench mount for spare parts or just leave it where it is and have two stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try building a floor stand out of chain link fence parts depending on the size of post you need to fit the clamp. The cheapest solution would probably be to buy one post (or &lt;em&gt;borrow&lt;/em&gt; one from a local school) and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://fencesupplyinc.com/shop/floor-flange-molded-1-7-8.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;floor flange&lt;/a&gt;, and either bolt it to your garage floor (permanent) or to a &lt;strong&gt;big&lt;/strong&gt; piece of thick plywood (which will eventually break). I don't recommend looking at getting piece of plate steel like the PRS Deluxe stands have, because I've looked into it before and the size plate you's want would cost almost as much as a new PCS stand would. If you can get anything free by chance or from a junker/someone you know then that's a bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But like I said, I think you'd be better of just to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Park-Tool-PCS-10-Home-Mechanic-Bicycle-Bike-Repair-Stand-/331258450458?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item4d208ad21a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;buy a new stand&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T06:52:36.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25927" CreationDate="2014-12-02T11:38:42.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had a similar problem and solved it by using a small piece of foam pipe insulation. I see no reason why a piece of sponge or similar material wouldn't work. I used two zip ties to hold the spacer in place, then positioned the sensor pick-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T11:38:42.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25934" CreationDate="2014-12-02T14:12:45.707" Score="2" ViewCount="2484" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bicycle has a two gear automatic IGH, which I would like to replace with a 5 or even better a 7 gear hub. I am very much a beginner with this so I would need any kind of help and advice you can offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I am doing this is because I need a little more assistance when cycling up hill and also a little more speed when going on flat land. Right now the e-bike i capped at 25 km/h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use any kind of IGH or are there some differences in size or number of holes or such? Note I only use the bicycle in the city so no wild rides or anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the cheapest way to get my bicycle to have a little more range with the gears? I assumed it was replacing the IGH but maybe there are other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else you want to share would be appreciated as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also enclosing a picture if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VrQEx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My bicycle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14613" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T14:53:05.627" Title="Internally geared hub on a 20 inch wheel" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23495" CreationDate="2014-12-02T14:13:26.663" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've put up an extensive article on the subject here - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bretonbikes.com/generalarticles/700cvs26inch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bretonbikes.com/generalarticles/700cvs26inch.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's typically opinionated and I don't expect everyone to agree, but it is written from huge (unique?) experience and I hope will encourage people to at least think about the subject&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14614" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T14:13:26.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25932" CreationDate="2014-12-02T14:42:13.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing a hub means building up a new wheel, which means you need to match the hub width to the frame, number of spokes to the rim and what not. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; on wheel building for more details. Rebuilding a wheel or building a new wheel is pricey and time consuming. If you want to reuse the rim, you will need to look up the spec sheet for the hub and give it to the person you're having build up the wheel to make sure the new hub you select matches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of this, you need some transmission stuff - namely a way to shift (which would require running shift cables on a frame that was likely not designed for them) as the Automatix hub takes care of shifting automatically. Since this is a folder, its more complicated than on a normal bike since you need to run cables for the folding (and the irregularly shaped tubes make attaching the cables a bit harder, e.g. no clamp on cable stops). Also, you'd need a hub with a coaster brake as well unless you want to run brake cables as well (it doesn't seem like the bike has mounts or cable stops for a rear brake either based on the picture). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, nobody other than SRAM (which only has the Automatix) and NuVinci make IGH's which are automatic (and I don't know if the NuVinci ones, e.g. Harmony are offered with a coaster brake or operate without the shift cables). In this case, it seems like the rear wheel is just a plain 20&quot; wheel with a coaster brake Automatix hub and 130 mm hub spacing (double check this with say your LBS), so you could conceivably put another 130 mm IGH wheel with a coaster brake in the back and jury rig the shift cables in if you choose a wheel with an IGH that isn't automatic [if you choose an IGH without a coaster brake, you may have to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/home-drop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;jury rig a brake mount&lt;/a&gt; as well]. I'd personally feel less comfortable about bodging on brakes - if shifting goes wrong, you can usually get home in one gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you want both a lower low gear and a higher high gear which means you need a larger range of gearing overall - its not as simple as just putting in a bigger or smaller chainring or a bigger or smaller rear cog (the rear cog would be a better option, with the former option giving you better climbing but lower top speed and the latter the reverse). So you're going to have to change the gearing in the rear to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend replacing the bike for one with a larger range of gearing instead of futzing around for a new rear wheel and bodging shifters on, as the rear wheel will likely need to be a pricey custom job. The other option is to simply become more fit/deal with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T14:53:05.627" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T14:53:05.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-02T15:30:23.850" Score="3" ViewCount="12097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering purchasing a standalone GPS unit. I've heard good things about the Garmin Oregon series devices for touring since they can be used with commodity batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a Garmin Oregon series GPS useful as a bike computer for navigation and ride tracking? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might want to use it to track rides to upload trails to MtbProject.com or Upload rides to Strava?  I may also want to use this for basic navigation from pre-planned rides downloaded from ridewithgps.com.  I also see myself using the maps for offroad MTB exploring in the national forest near my house.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Navigation, Tracking, and Map availability are more important to me than training features. I'm not fast, I don't care about heart rate / cadence, I just want to know where the hell I'm going and being able to figure out where I went after the fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these things that will work well with the Oregon series GPS units?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T20:52:05.670" Title="Is a garmin oregon series GPS useful as a bike computer for navigation and ride tracking?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;&lt;navigation&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25935" CreationDate="2014-12-02T16:02:41.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Oregon series only reads your speed and distance from the GPS which is not always as accurate as classic speed sensors - from my experience the difference can be up to 4-5% depending on the terrain.&#xA; And you will probably have to buy a separate handlebar mount, because they are not provided in the box as far as I know. &#xA;You can use Garmin Connect, so uploading to Strava shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oregon is more of a universal GPS than a discipline-specific device, so if you don't mind any of the above, it will probably be quite enough for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: As for maps and routes, you can add both, but check for format compatibility first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastEditorUserId="14321" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T16:13:34.563" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T16:13:34.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25935" CreationDate="2014-12-02T18:48:44.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Garmin Oregon 450 as a cycling GPS and I am quite happy with it. I don't have the speed/cadence sensor, but I plan to get it soon. According to the documentation it supports ANT+ sensors like the heart rate meter and the cadence sensor. Apparently it doesn't work with the speed part of the speed/cadence sensor but the cadence part does work.  The speed is determined from the GPS. It does not support power meters.  The screen is easy to read and can be operated with gloves. Free maps are available from OpenStreetMap.  You can easily upload your stuff to Strava and other similar services by uploading the GPX files generated by the device.  You can use standard AA batteries, and even with rechargeable batteries I still get over 12 hours of riding on it. Garmin makes a handle bar mount that works quite well.  It is a little more bulky than cycling specific units, but I think it makes up for it in price, features, and usefulness off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth pointing out that the Oregon 450 is no longer in production.  There are still some shops that carry old units, and they are usually around $200-$250. You can still find old The Dakota 20 is pretty much identical as far as I can tell and is under $200 if you shop around (current price on Amazon is $181.70).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T20:52:05.670" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T20:52:05.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25935" CreationDate="2014-12-02T19:13:00.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should be able to use a Garmin Oregon that way. A Garmin Oregon can do almost anything that a Garmin Edge (GPS bike computer) can do. The exact details will depend a lot on exactly which Oregon and Edge models you're comparing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the current Oregon models actually can connect to a heartrate or cadence sensor via ANT or Bluetooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can definitely log a track and show you a route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest downsides to using a Garmin Oregon on your bike are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll have to buy a bike mount separately. That's maybe $10 extra.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There aren't quite as many mounting options. Garmin Edges have a (purchased separately) mount option that sticks out in front of the handlebars, with an Oregon your only options will probably be handlebar or stem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Oregon is physically larger and heavier. (but not a ton)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's likely that the controls will be a tad harder to use without looking down, since an Edge is purpose-made for bicycling. This is likely to be very minor, though, and I'm sure the Oregon will be fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No power meter or speed sensor options. For your described use, I'm sure those don't matter, though. A speed sensor connected to a GPS will be more accurate than just a GPS, since the GPS isn't perfectly accurate and will tend to cut corners a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll probably want to load a different map onto it. Oregons usually come with a topo trail map that's perfect for hiking, but if you'll be riding on roads you'll probably want a road map of some sort instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest advantages to using a Garmin Oregon on your bike:&#xA; - It's cheaper (than Edge models with maps). Well, maybe cheaper. MSRP range right now for Oregons is $400-$550 and map-capable Edges go from $250-$600 (but I think the $600 Edge only has mapping capabilities as good as the cheapest Oregon). Looks like there's now some &quot;Edge Touring&quot; models for $250-$300 that might do exactly what you want, though...&#xA; - It's more capable than any of the Edges.&#xA; - The screen is bigger and the maps are prettier.&#xA; - If you hunt around on Geocaching forums and such things, you might be able to buy a used older model Oregon for much cheaper.&#xA; - The highest end Edge models have some cool cell-phone integration stuff, like alerting about incoming calls, uploading your track as you're riding, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the battery: I carry a separate little rechargeable battery pack that I can use to power my GPS or phone if one runs out of power. You have to do a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of riding in a day to run out the battery in a day. Personally I prefer rechargeables over alkalines, and the Li-Ions like what's in an Edge are the best battery life to weight+size ratio available. Looks like some of the Oregons actually have an option for a rechargeable battery &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; AAs to get the best of both worlds...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a reasonable review comparing a specific Oregon to a specific Edge: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/gps-hrm-bike-computer/garmin-oregon-450-vs-edge-800-a-650537.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.mtbr.com/gps-hrm-bike-computer/garmin-oregon-450-vs-edge-800-a-650537.html&lt;/a&gt; -- few years old, but the basic ideas are still the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side Note: I use the lowest end Garmin Edge (200), and find the route stuff in it sufficient for pulling a route out of ridewithgps and following it. It doesn't support a map (like the Edge 800+ or any of the Oregons), but I can load the track in, pick to follow that route, and set the display to show the track (well, just the next 100 meters or so). That way if there's an upcoming possible turn I can glance down and see if it's the turn I should take, and I'll get an alert if I go off the route. There's no maps, so it doesn't know the difference between the road veering right and needing to turn right onto a different road, and therefore it can't alert about upcoming turns. With an Edge 800 or Oregon that's loaded with decent maps of where you'll be riding, you could download just waypoints instead of a full track, and you'd be able to get turn alerts and a map that shows your track on the roads. Still, for only $130 instead of $400+ it's worth considering...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T19:13:00.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25947" CreationDate="2014-12-02T19:39:07.573" Score="10" ViewCount="4056" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep hearing people saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The bike weight isn't a problem, rider is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend is only 48 kg, and a mtb hardtail usually 13-15kg (full suspension would be more like 18kg for an older one), which is already 25% of the total mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any huge difference going from 15kg bike to 7-8kg?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to acknowledge the points that others have made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling/pedalling skills (sorry, not applicable in this question, but&#xA;good to know)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight/Cost/Performance dilemma (choose 2 out of 3, and this question&#xA;chose Weight+Performance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power output / Acceleration and Speed difference with respect to Bike&#xA;Weight's difference&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It is performance vs bike weight, please avoid adding other unknown parameters. It is worth mentioning those for the benefits of other cyclists, but please do not focus on unknown variables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit2: I agree that in real world, you need to take into account other variables. However, my approach is focusing at the bicycle (not cyclist, and in my subjective view, I certainly cannot tell my gf to get fit to ride the bike I made for her...), then whatever components is not feasible for &quot;real-world&quot;, replace it with inexpensive alternatives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T10:37:05.043" LastActivityDate="2017-08-01T10:23:28.943" Title="The bike Weight and Performance gain for Lightweight riders?" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25939" CreationDate="2014-12-02T20:02:48.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes weight matters. &#xA;It matter more on hills and stops and go. &#xA;On flat once you get up to speed it only has a small effect in rolling resistance. &#xA;Spinning weight - weight in the wheels matter more - like a 2x.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is relative. Take the bike weight plus rider.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From 100 kg to 90 kg is 10%.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From 50 kg to 40 kg is 20%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure going to 7-8 kg will have huge difference in cost. &#xA;Even on a small frame you are going to need to go carbon pretty all the way (from handle bars to wheels). &#xA;Even consider a carbon fork over a shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have full carbon frame and carbon fork single speed medium and it weighs 18-19 lbs. &#xA;Even with carbon wheels I am not sure it would make 16 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T20:23:31.773" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T20:23:31.773" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6415" CreationDate="2014-12-02T21:36:11.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps. There are two main areas of a bicycle prone to damage in truly cold temperatures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is your freehub.  When the grease in a freehub gets thicker, it can prevent the hub from full engagement.  At best this means when you pedal forward, nothing happens.  At worst, you can get partial engagement and chip/destroy the teeth inside your freehub, destroying it.  Winterize your freehub or risk this type of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is suspension.  Most suspension is designed to dissipate heat and doesn't deal particularly well with the cold.  Cheap elastomer suspension will often crack and disintegrate, leaving a springing non dampening system behind. Oil and air systems often have seals that can deform in the cold or crack, rendering the suspension non-functional for either the short term or permanently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most plastics, metals, and carbon fiber will work just fine down to -40C (-40F), which is colder than most people are willing to ride.  No part on you bike is going to magically shatter because it gets too cold.  Any lubricated part (your chain, hubs, steering, pedals, bottom bracket, derailleurs ) will work, but may work less well because the lubricants get stiff (or solid).  Except for your freehub/freewheel (which can be completely destroyed) none of these other areas are likely to sustain damage.  The lubricants will simply slow/freeze them and they won't work until they are warmed up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most suspension (depending on type) will stop working at some temperature.  Some leaf sprung style systems will not, but most systems will freeze.  Depending on the quality/specs of other parts (seals, tolerances, etc) some systems may be damaged by continuing to use them after they freeze, others will survive to work again when temperatures rise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T15:49:53.100" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T15:49:53.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5771" CreationDate="2014-12-02T21:39:55.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many fatbike manufacturers are currently making full carbon frames intended to be raced and ridden at sub zero temperatures.  These manufacturers were previously using titanium, but most folks ran all the same carbon parts that everyone else did on their regular mountain bikes.  Short answer, yes.  This has been done for a long time and the breakage rate hasn't been anything different than normally seen with warm weather riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T21:39:55.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2431" CreationDate="2014-12-02T21:47:39.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winterize your freehub body.  This kind of failure is common in colder temperatures and a hub acting like this should not be ridden.  In addition to the safety issue, you can destroy your freehub with partial engagement.  The freehub needs to be disassembled, the factory grease cleaned out of it and regreased with a winter weight grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T21:47:39.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14410" CreationDate="2014-12-02T21:51:19.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how far below freezing you are riding.  In close to freezing temperatures, where slush and muck are an issue, a wet lube offers better protection despite it's increased viscosity and resistance.  At colder temperatures where slush is no longer an issue (15F/-10C) you should consider a dry lube.  It will offer less resistance while riding and provide an adequate level of protection for those conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T21:51:19.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19204" CreationDate="2014-12-02T22:43:15.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably too late, but since you said it was just the first few threads, you could run the proper size tap in to clean up the threads. I found this while looking for info about bike pedals for a completely unrelated project, so I don't know the correct thread size, but if you know it, you can tap that out and good as new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need for helicoils or adapters, they would be plan B if the threads are totally shot and the tap can't clean them up. But I've cleaned up some really boogered threads with taps and dyes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14616" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T22:43:15.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18890" CreationDate="2014-12-02T23:11:15.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar things happen to me also when I walk. I just make eye contact, thank and and wave them to proceed. Even before they came to full stop. Usually they pass faster than me, and I can start moving to cross when it is safe with minimal delay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11532" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T23:11:15.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25939" CreationDate="2014-12-02T23:16:51.407" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In context of this kind of discussion - weight and cost are the same thing - the more you spend on  a bike, the lighter it is (with diminishing returns) and you cannot talk about weight without talking about how much money you have and are prepared to spend (sometimes not the same). The context of this answer is a targeted weight of a 7-8kg MTB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No weight does not matter - or more accurately, it matters far less than most people imagine it does. If you are trying to build a 7-8kg MTB, a hair cut will be providing cheaper $/gram than bike upgrades. For most people, losing 1000g in body weight is cheaper than losing 1000g from your bike, as is gaining a little bit more fitness. Do you ever arrive home with water in your drink bottle, or snacks in your pocket - that 100mL of water is 100g you spent $100s to get the super light carbon bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A well coached rider on a heavy bike will out perform an unskilled rider on the lightest bike on any mountain bike trail. Learning to ride will increase your enjoyment, endurance and speed far more than spending money on a lighter bike, and unlike a lightweight bike, it's something that lasts a lifetime. For a vast majority of riders I have met, a weekend coaching session would provide immeasurable improvement in riding (speed, endurance and enjoyment) compared to the spending money saving weight - yet many people never spend a dime on coaching after forking out $1000s on a 'faster' bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly at some point - you are a finely tuned elite athlete with no more body weight to lose, you have been coached till your riding form is used in reference videos, you have trained till there no more training you can do, a light bike becomes the only way to go faster.  There is also the mid way - you want to go as fast as you can and a lighter bike will make an instant improvement, why not - if you have the cash, there's no reason not to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, other things come to play. They do not build light bikes with cheap bearings and poor quality shifting. Much of the gain attributed to weight is actually improved efficiency in the drive train, better geometry and in the case of MTB, shocks that get more energy into forward movement. Lighter bikes are usually less durable than slightly heavier bikes - sponsored riders do not care about it, but they are not the ideal bike for a weekend warrior &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am by no way advocating heading out and buying the heaviest bike in the shop. What I am advocating is looking at your own financial situation, your riding desires and being absolutely honest with yourself as to why you are aiming for a 7-8kg MTB. Probably the best advice I was once given (as a non competitive weekend warrior) was &quot;Buy the heaviest bike your ego will let you ride&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="6726" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T11:18:51.910" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T11:18:51.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18890" CreationDate="2014-12-02T23:45:29.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the &quot;wave&quot; is the accepted an polite form of denying their kindness, I have found it ineffective.  Part of the problem is that it is a passive, kind gesture similar to what they are doing.  It leads to the ridiculous &quot;no you first, please&quot; situation and then the awkward simultaneous starts.  Don't do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YOU ARE A CYCLIST AND YOU KNOW THE RULES.  Take charge, be your own traffic cop.  Firmly, but politely point at the driver, then point in the direction they are indicating for travel.  I have found that this works 95% of the time, the motorist will obey and you can go on about your way without all that &quot;who is more polite&quot; awkwardness and delay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T23:45:29.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25939" CreationDate="2014-12-03T04:38:46.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;big. difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let say the GF (48 kg) can output 256 watt of power. That means on bike A (16 kg) her power to weight ratio would be 4 w/kg while on bike B (8 kg) it'd be 4.57 w/kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare that to random guy (64 kg) who can produce 320 w. On bike A he'd have 4 w/kg and on bike B it's 4.44 w/kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gain is bigger for the GF than the random guy (0.57 w/kg vs 0.44 w/kg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T04:38:46.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25939" CreationDate="2014-12-03T09:04:39.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boring answer: it depends, mostly on the type of terrain your GF will be riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scientific answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head on over to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecalculator.com&quot;&gt;bikecalculator&lt;/a&gt; and start punching in your numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we take the reduction in total energy spent (Calories) as &quot;increased performance&quot;&#xA;we see that for your GF (48Kg, 150Watts) on a MTB on a flat road the difference in energy spent per Km between a 8 Kg and a 16Kg bike will be less than 2%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same bikes with your GF climbing on a 30% grade (pretty steep) has a reduction in calories between the 16Kg bike and 8Kg bike of almost 12.5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &quot;Performance gain&quot; can be measured in various ways. Total energy spent is just a simple first assumption that probably gives a good indication how much &quot;reduction in tiredness&quot; your GF can expect after a long ride. For serious racing, other factors are more important. If you are intereseted in this, you can look into the decrease in energy required to accelarate your bike, the reduced rotating masses, different wheel sizes and possible losses in suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that this is serious weight weenie terrain where a lot of manufacturer pseudoscience/voodoo is practiced. See the various questions on the whole 26&quot;/27.5&quot;/29&quot; wheel size debate for examples and decide for yourself on what info can be trusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Non-scientifc remarks from a practical biker's view&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably not helpful for your question, but it is, I think, very relevant for other people seeking bike advice on this site. A lot of people will probably disagree with these points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The difference between a 8Kg and a 16Kg MTB is huge. Quite probably both bikes are not intended to be used in the same terrain, or even in the same decade and therefore any one-on-one comparison is not valid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting the lightest bike also often means fragile or less durable components. Pro riders don't care if their bikes last only 1 season, or less.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is the real world, &quot;other unknown parameters&quot; as you put it, are always important. You cannot ignore the $/Kg value and the diminishing returns you get for pouring more $ into the bike. On top of that, a high $ bike equals high $ maintenance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the end, what do you ride for? Personally I ride for fun, and having to worry about damaging my new 3k$ bike on a rock or root, or obsessively think about shaving 15g of my bike by installing a carbon bottle cage, in which I then will place a 0.8Kg water bottle, is not fun at all. Getting the latest and greatest gear each year (13 speed sprockets with 26.5&quot; wheels anyone?) and in the process only dropping tons of cash just because otherwise you could be at a tiny disadvantage, is also not fun.&#xA;For these reasons, I ride a 8 year old 13Kg second-hand 26&quot; bike, with all standard robust components that are easy to get, cheap to replace and are guaranteed to be available for many years to come. The bike cost me $200, I am not afraid of it getting damaged or stolen and therefore I have tons of fun. Does that mean I'm slow? Not at all, but if someone does pass me it is just because they are in better shape or more skilled. Not because of my bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T09:43:52.510" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T09:43:52.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25954" CreationDate="2014-12-03T11:46:42.170" Score="11" ViewCount="5488" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fatbikes are traditionally used for sand and snow which are surfaces which are loose and liable to break away under the weight of the bike and rider. They are also materials that don't generally stick to the tyre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A muddy surface such as a peaty or poor-condition dirt track after rainstorms would also provide some likelihood that the material will break away under the tread. However, mud is often sticky and likely to stick to a tyre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore is mud more or less likely to stick to a fatbike wide with and diameter tyre than a small skinny ( &amp;lt; 2.5 inch ) mountain bike tyre where more pressure is being exerted over a small surface area, or more extreme a cyclocross tyre (these guys seem to ride and corner in muddy conditions successfully)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T22:13:17.133" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T17:12:46.160" Title="Are fatbikes capable riding in mud?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25951" CreationDate="2014-12-03T12:13:36.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fatbikes are traditionally used for sand and snow, but what about mud?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Would a wide tyre with a mud-specific tread work better or worse than a narrow one in mud?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger footprint with lower pressure has better traction on surfaces with low shear strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an On-One Fatty which is a joy to ride on technical ascents (despite the weight penalty) and descents. The bike is not a limiting factor. The limit is me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T12:13:36.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2014-12-03T13:06:18.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turn the bike upside down and clamp the handle bar stem in the jaws of a WorkMate workbench and rest the seat on the opposite end of the WorkMate work surface. Turning the seat around backwards on its stem may be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zr7Tg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zr7Tg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14621" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T01:20:46.503" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T01:20:46.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25951" CreationDate="2014-12-03T14:47:27.743" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on how viscous and deep the mud is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mud is viscous like clay and maybe leaves mixed and a fat tire can float and still get traction then the bigger tire is better.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with normal mud and less than 6 inches deep then a thinner tire that will sink to the bottom for traction and might do better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was in a cyclocross race recently where we had a few inches of rain over the prior 2 days.  There were both mountain bikes with 2+&quot; tires and cyclocross with 33-35mm.  The cyclocross were more effective.  Even muddy grass the smaller tires did better.  The bigger tires got pushed around and still did not get good surface traction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other factor is the amount of mud you are going to carry.  A fat tire is going to hold a lot more mud and get heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T15:17:23.693" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T15:17:23.693" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25956" CreationDate="2014-12-03T15:28:10.420" Score="0" ViewCount="6167" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine has a single speed Kona Unit and wants to make it geared. The model he has (likely 2012 or 2013 model) uses sliding dropout. He currently has single speed dropout plates without a derailleur hanger. What replacement plates are available for the sliding dropouts with a derailleur hanger?  Are these paragon dropouts (or compatible with paragon), Tange dropouts, or custom to Kona?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on which dropout plates to use to replace the drive side with a geared dropout plate would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI: I referenced all sites listed in the following question and didn't find sliding dropouts for this bike on any of them:&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10286/determining-which-derailleur-hanger-is-compatible-with-a-frame&quot;&gt;Determining which derailleur hanger is compatible with a frame&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current dropout looks like:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oRpvS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oRpvS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikeman.com/store/graphics/00000001/Alt-KON/KON-F12UN16-02.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bikeman.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2019-07-18T13:50:02.810" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T18:54:51.080" Title="Replacement dropouts with derailleur hanger for Kona Unit" Tags="&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25955" CreationDate="2014-12-03T17:09:26.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this what you're looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.probikeshop.com/kona-cmphcc-derailleur-hanger/84435.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KONA #CMPHCC Derailleur Hanger&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MMgTF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T17:09:26.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25958" CreationDate="2014-12-03T19:05:34.143" Score="1" ViewCount="3549" Body="&lt;p&gt;This goes off a previous question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23972/quick-release-on-fixed-gear-bike&quot;&gt;Quick Release on Fixed Gear Bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I want to replace my solid axles with quick release skewers on my fixed gear bike. Yes, I am aware that this isn't necessarily recomended, but done right it should be fine (i.e. enclosed cam qr skewer, chain tensioner like &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/parts/drivetrain/tuggnut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;surly tugnut&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spacing in the rear 120mm, what kind of quick release skewers do I get? I can't seem to find any with 120mm spacing. Is it simple to buy one that is ~130mm and shorten it? How do you do that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relavent links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#qr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html#qr&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/704523-quick-release-fixed-gear.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/704523-quick-release-fixed-gear.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11513" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T21:21:17.193" Title="Replace solid axle with quick release on Fixed Gear" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;axle&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25957" CreationDate="2014-12-03T20:14:21.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is easily accomplished, simply replace the axle from your wheel with a QR axle, at most you may have to cut an axle/skewer to length and maybe cut more threads if you can't find an axle and skewer with enough thread on it. But you'll need to be comfortable with cutting metal and have the right &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dansmc.com/tapset.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;die set&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W32oh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try shopping around for a 120mm rear QR axle, you'll have better luck looking for a complete hub and just parts it. They're not super common though, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Campagnolo-Nuovo-Record-Small-Flange-Rear-Hub-32-Hole-120mm-/221623961575?pt=US_Hubs&amp;amp;hash=item3399d147e7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not cheap...&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T21:21:17.193" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T21:21:17.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25961" CreationDate="2014-12-03T21:44:21.967" Score="5" ViewCount="3228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesmart.com/products/elmer-700&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these fenders&lt;/a&gt; recently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesmart.com/products/elmer-700&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://static.squarespace.com/static/53a5af47e4b0b0e684bc5a0a/53a6f8afe4b00f6c422fead7/53c57879e4b083958bf66d31/1405450403470/fenbik_elmer_14.jpg?format=750w&quot; width=&quot;200&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear fender works fine — there are enough mount points to support my brake, kickstand, rack, and fender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R6PH7.jpg&quot; width=&quot;400&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when the salesperson sold me the fenders, we both failed to realize that my bike's front brake uses &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; of the mounting holes available on the left side of the fork:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HlDxi.png&quot; width=&quot;400&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went back to the bike shop, talked to a tech and he gave me a longer bolt, recommending that I just mount the fender stay on the outside of the front brake (with some washers surrounding it). But when I asked at another bike shop, someone told me to definitely &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; try mounting them on the same bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could mounting them together cause any problems with brake alignment or reliability, or is it fairly safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2194" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.727" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T03:22:31.993" Title="Is it safe to mount fender stays and disc brakes on the same bolt?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25959" CreationDate="2014-12-03T21:48:50.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't comment on whether using the same bolt is safe or not, but one possible workaround would be clip-on fenders. These just attach to the frame of the bike and don't need to be attached to the fork at all. They're not as sturdy/durable as fully installed fenders but will avoid any issues with a lack of mounting space on the fork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Planet Bike sells some &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecom1.planetbike.com/7001.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clip-on fenders for $20&lt;/a&gt;, and you could probably find them cheaper online or at your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHX2I.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clip-on fenders&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T21:48:50.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25959" CreationDate="2014-12-03T21:58:50.953" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not do that. That's dangerous because those stays are often made of soft steel and it's easy to bend or damage them, which means they'll pull out from under the bolt head. In that case you end up with a loose bolt on your brake caliper. Which is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two alternatives spring to mind: fenders that mount directly to the fork via clips or bands (or hose clamps if you're DIY), or the short fenders that only attach to the fork crown (I think the latter are decorative rather than functional, but enough people disagree that you can still buy them). I would just use cable ties to attach the fenders to the fork and see what happens. I think that will work, but if it doesn't I'd use hose clamps instead. Careful not to overtighten the clamps - you can crush the fork tube which will damage the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're committed to attaching to the brake the safer way is to make a plate that links both bolts and has a tab to bolt the mudguard onto. That way the plate can't rotate and is fairly solid so it's not likely to shift or deform and leave to with a loose front brake mount. The failure mode will be that extra tab bending or breaking, and with a little thought to the design that will be annoying rather than dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IuAPk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T00:35:40.257" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T00:35:40.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25962" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-03T22:21:11.107" Score="3" ViewCount="3020" Body="&lt;p&gt;What features are needed, and what ones are desirable on a fitness tracker for a cyclist? I am looking for one that will support jogging, walking and other exercise, but cycling is essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are heaps of 'reviews' of these things, and a such large number of products available, I can't find information that gives me much confidence that any particular model supports cycling, and how well it does.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I assess what is a good fitness tracker for someone who primarily cycles, but not exclusively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More constraints, this is for a small woman who can't wear a chest strap or watch/band (5ft with really thin wrists). She also runs(slowly), users a scooter(leg power/not motorised), walks and plays soccer occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She wants to get an accurate measure of energy use in kcal - and the tracker we tried was not very accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Willing to look at multiple devices, if that is the way forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14626" LastEditorUserId="14626" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T18:38:57.043" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T01:57:03.633" Title="What features make a good fitness tracker for cyclists?" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-04T00:49:37.933" Score="5" ViewCount="3254" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had any success with cameras that can resolve the license plates of vehicles that are near the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What resolution will be needed if we want to be able to read license plate later on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Is resolution 1920x1080 enough for license plate resolution? Or is frame rate (interlaced vs. progressive; 30 fps vs 50fps vs 60fps) necessary; or is it the bitrate that is the most important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="26152" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T20:36:27.593" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T20:36:27.593" Title="What bike/helmet camera resolution is needed in order to read licence plates?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;camera&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25959" CreationDate="2014-12-04T03:22:31.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure it would work in this case, but you can get brake nuts with a thread inside the &#xA;cap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/sheldon_fender_nuts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/sheldon_fender_nuts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely not mount the fender between the bolt and the brake mount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P-Clips are cheap and will allow you to mount the fender on the fork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T03:22:31.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25965" CreationDate="2014-12-04T05:12:41.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Mobius Action Cam w/wide angle lens at 720p might do the job. I have no experience with the Mobius but have played around with earlier '808' key fob cameras and discovered a wide angle lens was the way to go to read license plates when used as a dash cam. Techmoan has a very detailed video review of the Mobius. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2013/7/8/the-mobius-camera-the-do-it-all-mount-anywhere-1080p-micro-c.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2013/7/8/the-mobius-camera-the-do-it-all-mount-anywhere-1080p-micro-c.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These key fob cameras are small, cheap and lightweight. I've had good success walking around with one velcroed to the bill of a baseball cap. Haven't tried it on my bike yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14583" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T05:12:41.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25971" CreationDate="2014-12-04T07:15:51.403" Score="0" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking my saddle, the tension screw seems to have bottomed out to no tension applied.  I added a small amount of tension to the screw, and the screw seems to have &quot;taken.&quot;  I've not tested if it will shake itself out, or unscrew by some other process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Why would this happen?  A failure in periodic maintenance on my part to check that it was staying in alignment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What negative effects would this have had on my saddle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T16:11:39.627" Title="Why would the tension screw on a Brooks saddle have unscrewed to zero? What negative effects?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;failure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25965" CreationDate="2014-12-04T15:09:14.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in bicycle cameras at the moment, although for reasons other than reading number plates, and I have found several cameras to be available, which look pretty decent. There's a much wider choice in this market than there was a few years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while I can't say explicitly &quot;such-and-such a camera will read a number plate at 20 paces&quot; I'm happy to share what I've found so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three cameras that I'm thinking seriously about are the GoPro Hero, the Garmin Virb and the Shimano Action camera. So any of these three might be worth a second look. As a start point, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cycling blog by a guy called DC Rainmaker&lt;/a&gt;, which has reviews and sample footage of all three cameras, which I have found helpful. You might be able to determine from the sample footage whether the resolution is &quot;enough&quot; for your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You imply that you'd be looking for something helmet-mounted. I know that all three of these cameras can be attached to the frame (which is what I'm looking for), so it is probably best to double-check that suitable attachments exist. From what I've found, the area of attachments can become as complicated as the camera itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over and above these, a couple of years ago I did buy a camera for my commute, which I attached to my helmet using cable ties. That was a Dogcam Bullet and whilst it worked after a fashion, there were issues with things like image stabilisation, white balance etc which made the solution less than ideal. This would have been about three years ago and you got the impression that the technology just wasn't quite there yet. If you're interested in this type of solution (it was certainly cheaper than the ones I'm looking at now) I posted my thoughts, and some sample footage, as an answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13590/helmet-camera-pros-and-cons&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; a while back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is really an answer for you but hopefully it will give you some tips as regards where to start looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T15:09:14.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25968" CreationDate="2014-12-04T16:11:39.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking the tension on a Brooks saddle is part of the regular maintainance. Any bolt that doesn't have sufficient tension on it will move due to random road vibration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/getting-in-touch/faqs/saddle_maintenance/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.brooksengland.com/getting-in-touch/faqs/saddle_maintenance/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Why have the Rails / Tension Pin / Backplate on my Brooks saddle&#xA;  broken? By far the most common cause of breakages of the Rail,&#xA;  Backplate and Tension Pin is insufficient leather tension. Brooks&#xA;  recommend a routine six-monthly check of the tension, and adjustment&#xA;  where required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bolt stays in place due to the friction applied to the threads by the tension in the bolt. In effect you are &quot;stretching&quot; the bolt so it constantly pulls on the threads&#xA;to create the friction to hold the bolt in place. In the Brooks saddle case the force&#xA;is actually a compression, but the principal is the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you put the tension back and check it on a regular basis, I don't think there should be any long term damage to the saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T16:11:39.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-04T18:28:54.373" Score="0" ViewCount="804" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, so, please, don't flame me for buying a budget bike. My dad recently passed away, and i've been riding his bike. It was a hybrid mountain/road bike. As it slowly died, and i bent the rear axle (Don't ask me how, i don't ride it hard) i debated buying a new bike. I have a few friends with the Denali, and, while they won't let me try it, it looks to be a good bike. One of them has had it for over a year, prompting me to consider it. Personally, i don't have the money for a big budget bike, and only have around $200 to spend. I also pop on and off curbs, and am wondering if that will be much of a problem. Is it worth buying? Will it stand up to my antics? I only weigh 155 Lbs and am a fan of speed. I'm 5'8&quot; but am looking to buy the one intended for much larger people (6'2&quot;-6'5&quot;) as i am used to that on my dad's bike. (Plus, i'm only 16, i might get a little bit taller). Biking is pretty much my life, I do it daily. But my old bike is not a road bike, it was a hybrid and is 40 lbs. Is it worth the upgrade? I'd like to get a higher cruising speed as well as a higher top speed. I'd also like to be able to jump on and off curbs if need be. (I've been hit on my bike riding on the road a few times) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14636" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T21:42:10.203" Title="Gmc Denali - good bike on a 200 budget?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-12-05T00:10:58.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25972" CreationDate="2014-12-04T19:00:58.110" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A $200 bike is not good for someone that rides gentle and you want to ride it a little more than gentle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look used as you will find better values.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go for a bike that is maybe a bit big for you but at 5'8&quot; don't jump to a bike for 6'2&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is style of bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to go fast and bang (jump curbs) then a road bike with&#xA;some solid wheels, axle, frame, ...  That is not is not a $200 bike. &#xA;Road wheels that will bang are more like $400 alone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider not going fast and getting like a single speed street or bmx bike.  You are going to need to get up into more the $400+ range but can get a pretty ballistic bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kind of between is a cyclocross that is like a rugged road bike.  But you not going to get a good one for $200.  You do find some nice used for like $600+ especially at the end of the racing season (Feb).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T19:00:58.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25976" CreationDate="2014-12-04T21:13:13.547" Score="6" ViewCount="6700" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any special concerns or precautions to take when traveling by plane with a bike that has air shock or air fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it necesary to take the air out or is it safe to leave them as they are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the tires need to be deinflated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details: I'll be traveling by air with a bike that has a Marzocci Bomber MX Pro, that has air springs. My fear is that pressure changes may affect the shock. Also, and I don´t know if I will be near a bike shop at my destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T15:24:37.520" Title="Are there special concerns traveling by plane carrying Air shocks?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25975" CreationDate="2014-12-04T21:33:39.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most (all?) airliner holds are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cabin_pressurization#Need_for_cabin_pressurization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pressurized&lt;/a&gt; and nearly all are heated, at least above freezing if not to cabin temperature, so I wouldn't expect any particular problems. The atmospheric pressure at sea level is around &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmospheric_pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;14.7 psi&lt;/a&gt;, so even if the the hold was not pressurized at all, the worst your bike would see would be around 15psi extra pressure in the shocks/tires. The air pressure at 30,000 feet is around &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/air-altitude-pressure-d_462.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;4.4 psi&lt;/a&gt;, so at typical airliner cruising altitude, an unpressurized hold would mean that your tires and shocks would see about 10psi of additional apparent pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were running some fat low-pressure tires on your bike pumped up to their maximum pressure, then you might want to back off on the pressure a bit for piece of mind just in case it ends up in an unpressurized hold, but I'd bet that even a bike tire rate at 30psi will stand up to 40psi without bursting. But I'd have no qualms at all about a 110psi bike tire standing up to 120psi in the plane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, if the airline has any special requirements, you should follow those requirements, but I've flown my bike on several different airlines (including overseas), and have never seen a requirement to deflate the tires and have never had a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastEditorUserId="5459" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T21:46:26.363" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T21:46:26.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25965" CreationDate="2014-12-04T22:12:55.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Contour Roam2 which I use at 720p and it gets registration numbers about 6 times out of 10 which isn't bad at all. The usual reason for them not being clear is vibration on my bike (typically due to a poor road surface) but I'm used to reading the registration numbers out aloud now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I often wipe the lens when I'm stopped at lights etc if it's wet outside to keep it as clear as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10916" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T22:12:55.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25972" CreationDate="2014-12-04T22:52:14.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;As it slowly died, and i bent the rear axle (Don't ask me how, i don't ride it hard) i debated buying a new bike&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hmmm… If the bent axle is the only major problem the bike has (by &quot;it slowly died&quot; I take you to mean that it was developing other less-serious problems too), if I were you I would do an overhaul and continue with the hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you have the knowledge/experience it would take to do such an overhaul, but if you were willing to put up $200 in quality components and elbow grease, you could probably turn your hybrid into something that's significantly better than any new $200 bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to purchase a bicycle, definitely buy used. Don't get the Denali. A used $200 road bike will last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T21:42:10.203" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T21:42:10.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25975" CreationDate="2014-12-05T00:56:49.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got this from a flight engineer (on flight engineer and he is also a commercial pilot)  that works for one of the major cargo shippers and he says cargo on cargo and passenger planes is always pressurized but not always heated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is all planes but I found a couple references that the floor that separates passenger from cargo is not strong enough to take a pressure differential and they have blow out panels in the event cargo looses pressure so the floor does not buckle.  In many cases structurally it is more efficient to pressurize the whole plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T15:24:37.520" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T15:24:37.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25998" CreationDate="2014-12-05T08:54:35.040" Score="2" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been road biking for about 6 months now (before that mostly running and gym.) I signed up for a 300km race (mostly flat), and my goal is to pass it in 9h. My current level of biking is 90km in 3h (alone). The race is in June so I have plenty of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it hard to optimize my training. There seems to be many different schools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intervals intervals intervals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distance distance and more distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm a well trained bicycle beginner that want to maximize the improvement &#xA;in 6 months. Obviously I don't want to be injured or overtrained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any recommendations? or reference (publications?)&#xA;How many pass/weak? Gym? Intensity? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably many of you have been in my situation before.&#xA;And yes, btw the training for the coming three month will be on a trainer,&#xA;since it is winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have pulse watch, cadence meter, speed meter, and a build in power meter.&#xA;The trainer is a tacx i-flow and I have signed up for trainingroad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14644" LastEditorUserId="14644" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T15:20:35.387" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T23:54:01.217" Title="Optimal beginner training" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25982" CreationDate="2014-12-05T12:16:09.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A perfect book for beginners in training is Joe Friel's &quot;Cyclist's training bible&quot;.&#xA;The main point he makes in his book is training periodization i.e. changing the volume and intensity of training depending on when you want your peak to occur. In your case this is simple as you have a single goal. In general the rule is: low intensity, high volume through the winter and early spring, more intensity over spring and specialist training in the weeks before the race. Of course in each period you need also other types of training but in smaller amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Training is quite an individual thing, so I wouldn't give any specific advice on your training plan. Every body reacts in a different way to given exercises and numerous aspects matter when you start your training, especially in higher intensity. Therefore the best thing you can do is try some exercises yourself and see how they work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the training devices, basic parameters to watch during training are heart rate and cadence. If your power meter actually measures power (for example in the cranks, pedals or hub), than you can use it instead of heart-rate monitor. If it's only a function estamating your power in the bike computer then it's definitely not reliable enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power measurements tend to be more accurate than heart-rate monitors, and their response to intensity change is immediate. Therefore they are much more reliable during short intervals. Also power data is more impartial as heart rate may vary a bit day-to-day. The down side is that determining your training zones for a power meter is more complex and time-consuming than for a pulse-monitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T12:24:56.013" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T12:24:56.013" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25030" CreationDate="2014-12-05T12:56:45.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have implemented a somewhat regenerative braking. To simply answer your question, you would need to read the manuals to see if they specifically mention regenerative-braking (RB). If RB is not mentioned, then your controller does not have RB implemented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The regenerative braking (RB) I have made works independently from the bicycle brakes. These are the experience I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very useful in a hilly terrain, you would not need to worry about&#xA;your acceleration cruising downhill, whilst charging your battery at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhat useful for commuting, but do not expect the RB to stop you&#xA;effectively from 36 km/h speed. It would be dangerous to rely on RB&#xA;as primary braking system for commuting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the calculations and designs I have made for this brake is fairly complex. But all of them pretty much branches from the basic idea, linking to this discussion here &lt;a href=&quot;https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/56186/how-can-i-implement-regenerative-braking-of-a-dc-motor&quot;&gt;e.se&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However to give an analogy for all the cyclist here in SE, I would compare it with en Engine braking in car/automobiles. The lower the gear you set for the engine (I.e. higher spinning RPM of the Motor with respect to your Motor normal running speed), the more effective braking would be. There are two ways to achieve this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechanically&lt;/strong&gt;: Mid drive motor connected to the wheel with different gearing (for RB) and works independently with another gearing that would drive/accelerates your bicycle. This setup would have limited braking efficiency at different speed, depending on your RB gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electronically&lt;/strong&gt; (easier to do): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brushless Hub motor + A step-up voltage regulator to maintain the&#xA;voltage needed to charge your battery.If you use 36V, you would&#xA;usually need 37-38V to charge back to the battery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A switch to change the mode between running the motor and RB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reasons I think RB is not yet common for bicycle is the cost OR the complexity for a normal user to do as a DIY. When I first started my RB project, I was put off with the complete controller price, and decided to start designing a circuit of my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:33:10.577" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T12:56:45.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25951" CreationDate="2014-12-05T17:12:46.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally mud you want a skinny tire with very good clearing capability and depending on the mix of rocks and roots the hight of the knobs should be short.  In situations where there is little rocks and roots, tall spikes work best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have raced downhill for several years on the east coast of the US which is notorious for being muddy races.  We ran mud spikes but typically I had two pair of spikes, one with tall spikes and one cut with shorter spikes for more rocky conditions.  Mud spikes also have a large fillet radius to the spikes to allow them to shed mud easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One factor that holds true for all situations with mud, the tire must clean well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14647" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T17:12:46.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25990" CreationDate="2014-12-05T17:17:16.793" Score="5" ViewCount="23449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a method for &lt;em&gt;burping&lt;/em&gt; (get the air out of the circuit) hydraulic disc brakes in YouTube (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&amp;amp;v=nypZiLC1_Z8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). The method is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Rotate/move the hand lever assembly until the reservoir cap is facing up and at level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Take off the reservoir cap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Slowly squeeze the lever repeatedly, until no more air bubbles come off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Refill the reservoir with brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Put the cap back on and return the lever assembly to his normal position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me it looks far more simpler than the standard procedure, and can be used in an emergency on the road (Obviously, it doesn't apply for replacing old fluid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What problems can you see with this method? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T23:39:41.907" Title="Burping v/s bleeding hydraulic disc brakes: is it safe?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25921" CreationDate="2014-12-05T17:54:19.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best bet is to look at them - if you can't do it in person, look for reviews with pictures of the beam and illumination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, road.cc have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/lights2012/index-wide.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;comparison tool&lt;/a&gt;. I couldn't immediately see anything putting 35 lux in the centre, where I assume yours is measured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Topeak Whitelite HP Beamer&lt;/em&gt; (who names these things?) is closeish at about 30 lux, so maybe see if that looks similar to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T17:54:19.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16103" CreationDate="2014-12-05T17:58:45.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a cheap ($20) bike stand that elevates the rear wheel:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000C17HJ4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Bracket-Bicycle-Display-Stand/dp/B000C17HJ4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WjZO9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WjZO9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it works best with thinner-tubed steel bikes, and doesn't necessarily hold up a bike with a thick aluminum downtube optimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T01:05:10.717" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T01:05:10.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25987" CreationDate="2014-12-05T18:07:03.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You aren't assured of getting all the air out of the system.  If your bubbles are further down and this doesn't remove them, you may actually introduce more air than you remove when you replace the cap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You won't effect a fluid change this way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You won't replace the crush bolts and other pieces swapped at the true bleed that are        potential sources of failure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If something happens and you bump/spill some fluid, you are SOL for replacing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a leak that has introduced air, this may not help any. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to say this isn't a decent method to try for a home mechanic as an initial troubleshooting step if you are into it.  It may be done faster, with little to no cost, and may help some issues.  However, you are correct, it does have several shortcomings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T18:07:03.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-05T18:54:10.167" Score="2" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had built a bike similar to this one before. I think many would have this idea, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/lhSTGs5W5Ks?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for some reason, not many of these designed are commercially marketed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/pendalbike/pendalbike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://sites.google.com/site/pendalbike/pendalbike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several advantages on this design:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More aerodynamic posture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better up-hill climb efficiency (personal experience)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less maintenance for the drive train&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less Frame materials (weight are transfer directly through the pedal&#xA;to rear wheel, and through fork to Front wheel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are disadvantages: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fewer gears (I doubt this, technology in this Information age should&#xA;be more than enough to design a robust Internal Hub gear that support&#xA;a pedal axle in the middle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost: Obviously it is not in the stage of mass-production, so the&#xA;cost would be high. But I do not see why it should be more expensive&#xA;(if not to say cheaper) than a normal bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless I missed many unforeseen disadvantages, what else could prevent this design from becoming popular in the last 10 years?&#xA;What are other disadvantages in comparison with a normal bike that can level the advantages I have stated? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T20:18:22.640" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T20:18:22.640" Title="Pedaling in Rear Wheel design" Tags="&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25991" CreationDate="2014-12-05T19:27:21.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One problem is that the design would not be appropriate for technical riding requiring speed.  Getting behind the seat to push against the pedals would put you out over nothing, instead of out over the back wheel.  The design would be less stable because of that and consequently unsuitable for technical riding. The puts it out for mountain styles of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the road side, the UCI has been fairly quick to ban anything as non-traditional as this.  While materials improvements and the like are generally the norm, major changes to the geometry of a bike is combed over closely and often thrown out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New designs take sometime to take hold (Fat bikes are a good example from recent years).  The fat bike market lingered for years because very few companies were producing the tyres, bottom brackets, cranksets, hubs and rims it needed to grow.  Although most of the other parts were standard road and mountain bike parts, key components can be a hold back.  Once these bikes started getting raced regularly, the market and manufacture of the specialty parts took off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the design you are talking about, I don't see enough appreciable advantages for the commuter market to champion it.  Since it's not appropriate for the other markets, I can't  see such a radially departing design gaining any traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T19:27:21.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25962" CreationDate="2014-12-05T20:13:20.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't really give you an overview of the market, but I can list a couple of devices that I've got, or my wife has, to give you an idea of what is around. But I'll say straight off that this might be limited value to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First there is the Garmin Edge. This is ideal for measuring cycling data - you have external sensors such as heart rate monitor, speed, cadence, power sensors (which connect via ANT+). The 800 series and above are top of the pile, with maps'n'all (and support all the sensors). The 500 series support routes but don't display maps - they also support the sensors. Garmin have introduced some lower-end devices but double check before you go and buy - some of them don't support the external sensors so for your purposes would be....limiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably say that this range of devices is pretty useless for activities other than cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in the Garmin range is the Vivofit. I was given one of these so also have experience of it. It is basically a step counter. I'd imagine it would count steps while jogging, but bear in mind that it is just a counter. The Vivofit will also measure your heart rate, but it does so by an ANT+ connection to the Garmin Chest Strap. You'd think they could have come up with something better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife has a Fitbit. As fas as I can tell from having talked to her, it is the functional equivalent of the Vivofit. There are nuances with the displays (all are designed to be minimalist so the display on all is non-existent or limited). Apparently the new Fitbit will also measure your heart rate (the older ones don't), simply by virtue of being on your wrist. I'm pretty sure you can forget about using any Fitbit devices for cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mt wife and I did also look at an exercise computer for her, and we came across this Forerunner 920XT watch that @GlennGervais mentions. Double-check this, but the beauty of this device is that it supports all these ANT+ sensors, so can capture anything that the bike computers can capture. I also know that there is another ANT+ sensor designed to fix onto your trainer (shoe) so you can get metrics when jogging. Presumably things like step distance, speed and whatever the running equivalent is of cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside with this device is the price - it is currently on Garmin's site at over GBP400, so you really are talking top of the range here. (And don't forget the sensors will be extra.) Also, I'm not sure how it attaches to the bike - with the Edge computers they sit on the handlebars and are pretty much ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of other devices, I know the Samsung S5 and the new iPhone have both gone down a personal fitness route, so there may be some mileage in that. Of course, these phones themselves cost a pretty penny to start with. But certainly some of the cycling web sites (e.g. Garmin Connect, Ride With GPS, Strava) offer apps to allow you to capture ride data, so if you have a fancy phone in any case these could be realistic options for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's about the limit of my knowledge. Hopefully other people can chip in with information about other options - it wouldn't surprise me if people like Polar had the exact same devices on the market as Garmin, although I'd also expect the prices to be similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you look at the notion of a single fitness device that measures everything, this is very early days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T22:36:08.307" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T22:36:08.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25995" CreationDate="2014-12-05T20:13:25.960" Score="2" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a new bicycle (cyclocross meant for touring) and a center-mounted kickstand (Pletscher Twin), but it seems it won't fit with the standard mounts. Is this a common issue, and do I have to make a custom fitting to get around it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how they want me to mount:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8u4Fx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is what my bicycle looks like (too tight for the standard mount):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nds7p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Inspired by Batmans suggestions I ended up going for an Upstand: &lt;a href=&quot;http://upstandingbicycle.com/about-us/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://upstandingbicycle.com/about-us/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14649" LastEditorUserId="14649" LastEditDate="2014-12-07T02:35:27.393" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T02:35:27.393" Title="Centermounted kickstand on touring cyclocross" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;kickstand&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25994" CreationDate="2014-12-05T20:21:04.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably can't get a safe mount for that type of kickstand on that bike (and likely not any kickstand - the space is just too small). In general, kickstands on good new frames (even touring frames like the Surly LHT) are tricky since they stress the frame in ways the manufacturer did not intend. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/kickstands_on_long_haul_truckers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page from Surly&lt;/a&gt;, for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to try a kickstand which doesn't attach to the bike, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.click-stand.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Click-Stand&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T20:21:04.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25994" CreationDate="2014-12-05T20:55:02.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A touring bike and a cyclosross are similar but this is where you going to find a differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cyclocross bike is is not going to be designed to hold a kick stand. Weight, clearance, and collect mud.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are going to open that space up between the tire and cross bar to avoid problems with mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T20:55:02.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25982" CreationDate="2014-12-05T21:16:17.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Training plans are all well and good, but the first goal is to be able to ride 9 hrs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no substitute for doing long rides to prepare to do a long ride. In my experience,&#xA;for just developing pure endurance you get 80-90% of your training effect from a long ride. The rest of your training should be focused around reducing the recovery time to enable you to do your next long ride. There are also lot's of logistics around eating and drinking for 9hrs on the bike that you'll have to figure out as well and there is simply no way to know what will work for you without getting some 5-6 hr rides as practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you'll be inside the next 3 months, you should probably focus on consistency with some intensity work. Do as much cross training as you can. It's very hard mentally to do significant endurance training on trainer. If you can find another activity like XC skiing or a similar winter endurance sport, that would be beneficial. The most important part over the winter is to stay consistant and to not mentally burn out. You want to be raring to go when the weather gets good, not disgusted with riding due to burning out on the trainer. Going to the gym to work on flexibility and core strength is also a good winter activity. 9hr rides will make muscles painful that you normally don't notice riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the weather gets nice start working towards a regular extra long ride at least every 2 weeks, every week would be good if you recovering in that time. Start at 3 hrs and add a half hour until you start to reach a point where you can't recover in time for the next ride. Stay there for a while until you're ready to make the next increment. You'll know you're ready to move to the next level when you're excited to do a long ride, if it starts to feel like a job or an obligation, that's the time to step back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Endurancing training is as much about managing recovery as it is actually training. People with the mindset to enjoy endurance sports rarely have trouble with training, but they almost all struggle with overtraining. Learning when to push through and when to back off takes a very long time. As a relative beginner, I'd urge you to err on the side of caution. Taking a rest week every now and then should be part of your plan. Taking a week off will not significantly affect your fitness at all and might provide suprising benefits. Overtraining that extra week can destroy months of training with injury and illness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;300 km in 9 hrs is a very ambitious goal. If you want to be confident I would want to be &#xA;doing training rides of at least 6 hrs, 7 or 8 hrs would be better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also need to taper at some point before the event. Plan on at least 2-3 weeks of reduced effort leading up to the race. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T23:54:01.217" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T23:54:01.217" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25987" CreationDate="2014-12-05T23:25:39.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a quick fix, having brakes is safer than not having brakes, but I would not use this as an alternative to properly bleeding brakes, you're not guaranteed to get all the air out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kid has much bigger problems than air in his brakes, did you notice his hose fitting? His &quot;burping&quot; hack isn't going to last long because he's sucking air straight into the master cylinder by riding with a broken hose. It's seriously just dangling off the caliper with the sheath almost completely cut, one hard stop and that line is going to blow right off the fitting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dot oil is dirt cheap, you use very little to bleed Juicy brakes, and you can get a cheap bleed kit from your local pharmacy for $2 (ask for a disposable oral syringe with a luer lock tip). I know of one pharmacy that even stocks extra syringes because it's across the street from a couple bike shops. Bleeding your brakes is way faster and more effective than burping your brakes.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T23:25:39.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26001" CreationDate="2014-12-06T02:42:47.430" Score="2" ViewCount="17358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner to riding on road bikes.  A friend has lent me his road bike (Giant) for about 1 month and I want to use it as much as possible before I think about buying my own.  The current seat is absolutely killing me though (I have padded bike shorts already) so I'm thinking of fitting it with a seat more suited for me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I get a new seat, is it likely that I will be able to use it on another bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14653" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T23:13:17.030" Title="Are road bike seats interchangeable?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26000" CreationDate="2014-12-06T06:23:40.600" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost all saddles will be exchangeable -- there are a few rare (and very expensive ones) you wouldn't encounter unless you were looking for them which can't be exchanged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, almost surely if you buy a new saddle you can use it on another bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some saddles are marketed as &quot;road&quot; or &quot;mtb&quot; - the mtb ones are possibly more durable, but this is a marketing distinction -- they are not separate standards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there are a few things to note in your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Some discomfort when starting to ride road bikes is normal - the saddles are often harder than what most people are used to, so they need to get used to using their sit bones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Some seatposts don't have much adjustability for saddle angle and position. Thus, a poor seatpost in this respect may make a good saddle for you not feel good. Brooks saddles, for example, are somewhat notorious for needing a decent amount of adjustability in the seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Make sure your bike is fit to you - if the saddle is in the wrong place (or other aspects of the fit are wrong), it won't feel good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) You may need a different saddle (as you assume).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T23:13:17.030" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T23:13:17.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26000" CreationDate="2014-12-06T10:52:58.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is likely much more variability at the point where the seatpost and frame meet as compared to the point where the seatpost and seat meet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/seatpost-sizes.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T10:52:58.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26000" CreationDate="2014-12-06T13:17:52.547" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of things to be aware of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seatposts come in a bizarre array of diameters, so the odds of a seatpost from one bike fitting another is not great.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are maybe 3-4 different schemes for mating seats with seatposts.  Most &quot;real&quot; bikes use the scheme where two &quot;rails&quot; under the seat are held by a clamp atop the post, but there are a few other schemes, mainly used with less expensive bikes.  If both seats use the 2-rail scheme you're almost certainly OK, otherwise you need to compare the two carefully.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T13:17:52.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-06T17:37:19.227" Score="3" ViewCount="22355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a frame that I'd like to sell. To avoid it being stolen, I covered it in tape and spray paint. I rode it for 5 years in London and this worked very successfully. However, I'd like to make it look nice again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original glossy paintwork seems to be well preserved under the matte paint I put on. Is there a way for me to strip off this layer while leaving what's underneath?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14657" LastActivityDate="2021-04-28T08:52:30.030" Title="Removing spray paint to reveal frame's factory paint job" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26004" CreationDate="2014-12-06T18:04:39.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you spray painted directly onto the original finish and that paint has stayed in place for 5 years, it's not coming off without removing at least most of the original paint. Even if the two paints used different bases (say one oil and the other latex) they are bonded together so well that they will not come apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best option is to strip all the  paint, then repaint the entire frame nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T18:04:39.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27238" CreationDate="2014-12-06T18:31:31.177" Score="8" ViewCount="7134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that Brooks saddles (and similar leather hammock/sling style saddles) break in as they are used so that they conform to the particular shape of a riders sit bones, crotch, etc., and that, famously, these saddles can become more comfortable over time. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/23328/10807&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; was particularly helpful in explaining this process and explaining that it's important to understand that the size and design of the saddle must fit right in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this process of break-in, is it wise to buy a used leather hammock/sling style saddle? Is it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bad idea because it is already broken-in in a way that means it is irreparably shapes for the previous owners body?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A good idea because the leather is more supple and more easily bent and shaped to the new riders body?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An equally good idea because the leather will simply reshape over time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10807" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T13:08:29.517" Title="Should one buy a used Brooks saddle that is already broken in?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;leather&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26013" CreationDate="2014-12-06T19:36:03.723" Score="6" ViewCount="767" Body="&lt;p&gt;A manual of a suspension fork states that the quick release handle must be in horizontal position, pointing backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any &lt;strong&gt;technical&lt;/strong&gt; reason for this? Another natural position can be pointing upwards along the fork blade, and I cannot think of a reason why it is inferior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14658" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T04:37:09.747" Title="Which direction should QR lever point?" Tags="&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5076" CreationDate="2014-12-06T19:38:09.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a wax based lube instead of an oil/teflon based lube. Your chain and cassette will always be clean, however, you will have to apply the wax lube much more often. I do it every second day (40-60km/day). This might seem like a pain, but applying lube is so much easier than cleaning the cassette/chain. Also, there will be no black on your chain ever - you can run it through your hand and nothing will come off! The only thing I do to clean the chain is once a month or so run the chain over an old toothbrush to get rid of built up wax. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14659" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T19:38:09.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26004" CreationDate="2014-12-06T19:52:32.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have removed vandal spray paint from a cars with rubbing compound. &#xA;If you just misted it and bike had nice baked paint then there is a good chance. &#xA;It might not work but it is sure worth a try. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also search on overspray removal.  I used to take my truck inside the gate at a refinery and it got over sprayed badly a couple time and they managed to remove it without repainting.  Don't know how they did it but somehow they did.  But I would start with rubbing compound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-06T20:40:56.557" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T20:40:56.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25991" CreationDate="2014-12-06T19:59:17.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few designs that could involve rear wheel pedalling, and none of them seems to be particularly advantageous when compared to today's standards. Here are two major ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The design which is shown in the picture i.e. saddle somewhere around rear wheel axle - when using a standard frame your position will be very hunched. Yes, this may give an advantage in terms of drag coefficient and frontal area, but it is proven that your muscle efficiency falls with decreasing trunk angle (about 1% per 1 degree of smaller angle). Therefore the consensus is for TT bikes for this angle to be not lower than 30°, while in this design the angle would be way less than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence the frame must be designed to be much shorter. This will make a bike be less stable, especially at high speeds. Body-balancing is also an issue because your weight is put around the rear wheel level, meaning you would have less control over the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also another problem with weight distribution. In order to achieve the same pedalling efficiency, the sadle needs to be behind the rear wheel axle (to work like an inclined seat tube). This puts your CoG (centre of gravity) more than less over your rear wheel axle. This in turn means that during accelerationyour front wheel will be pulled upwards unless handlebars are much below the saddle, which as mentioned above decreases trunk angle. This can get even worse on the uphil when your CoG moves virtually behind the rear wheel additionally decreasing wheel grip (although this change would be barely noticeable on tarmac).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can do is leave saddle where it is in a normal frame and just put entire drivetrain at the back. In this case you would be practically lying on the frame, so both frame and saddle would need to be redesigned. Also since the rear wheel axle is further than bottom bracket, the range of leg motion will be smaller thus producing less power (although it may result in fewer injuries). Also your technique would be impaired as body balancing could turn out to be virtually impossible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus obviously it would be less comfortable and standing on the pedals would require almost superhuman agility. (well, maybe not, but still it would do more harm than good)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as you can see there are quite a few issues which are hard to overcome, and definitely hardly worth the effort. A more reasonable way to reduce drag and improve muscle efficiency is to use a recumbent or semi-recumbent bike, where it's easier to incorporate direct drive. In such a concept pedals are attached to the front wheel and you can see this employed in designs by Thomas Kretschmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T19:59:17.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25962" CreationDate="2014-12-06T20:17:01.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go smartphone based. Most of the apps have a free version to try out. The accuracy of most trackers whether phone based or not isn't great at a realistic price. Even then some effort may be needed in the tracking (changing load carried). If you're not talking about a training tracker but just to record calories burnt for a range of manually selected activities you've got a lot to choose from. I've stuck with Cardio trainer (android) for cycling, running and hiking (steps or gps on the latter 2) since it came preinstalled on my last phone. I'm not saying it's perfect but good enough and also gives me gpx files online. You're likely to find a better app but it's somewhere to start to help you work out what you want in addition to the basic features. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T20:17:01.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-06T23:21:59.030" Score="1" ViewCount="920" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father has one a Trek 4.3 Domane from 2014 with white bicycle tape that is very dirty now and could use to be replaced(christmas gift for him). What color tape/product should I get that will still match the bike and not fade to as bad a color as the white does? I'm open to other colors, if they still match.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iPrtX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14661" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T04:42:28.700" Title="Matching color bar tape to replace dirty white tape?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;handlebar-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2014-12-07T22:42:37.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26007" CreationDate="2014-12-06T23:35:13.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pointing it forward or downwards would be problematic as the lever might get caught somewhere and therefore get opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remains pointing it backwards and upwards parallel to the fork. When pointing it parallel to the fork blade, it might touch the fork and therefore not fully close. This might cause the quick release to open by itself unintendedly. One can easily mitigate this if one knows about it and orients the lever a bit different, however, one has to be aware of it. Pointing the lever backwards does not suffer from this problem and therefore is the most safe version (also from a legal point of view) for the manufacturer, as one does not have to be aware of any implications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T23:35:13.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26012" CreationDate="2014-12-07T00:16:09.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 8&lt;/a&gt;, your choices are black, white, or try to match it to the blue frame color, which my be difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T00:16:09.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26012" CreationDate="2014-12-07T04:42:28.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try to make the best out of this question by giving what is hopefully a helpful answer to others. You would be really surprised just how clean you can get synthetic or cork bar tape, even if it's white, with a little bit of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=orange%20degreaser&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;orange degreaser&lt;/a&gt;. Get a clean, preferably white rag, pour some on, and take one end of the towel in each hand and scrub the tape as if you were shining a shoe. Without much effort you can get it looking nearly brand new again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T04:42:28.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-07T08:15:59.990" Score="0" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am beginner and do not want to reduce my weight.My objective is to increase my stimna and leg power.I have an indoor cycle.what should be my daily target and how should it then be increase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14664" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T05:36:57.777" Title="Excited Beginner?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27162" CreationDate="2014-12-07T10:45:34.800" Score="0" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;My front derailleur is jammed by dirt (grease + fine dust), because of this the gear doesn't shift perfectly and chain is thrown off the cog. The spring is a bit unreachable because the derailleur arm comes in the way. How should I clean the spring and protect it from jamming again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14633" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T15:12:54.343" Title="The spring in my front dérailleur is jammed" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26019" CreationDate="2014-12-07T11:00:36.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well increasing stamina and no weight reduction, requires you to take good diet, a bit more than usual to compensate for the weight loss caused by exercise. the rest is upto your own comfort. you should pedal continuously for 30 minutes plus without stopping, that would increase your stamina at a constant rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14633" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T11:00:36.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-07T13:46:10.473" Score="1" ViewCount="5868" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got some new bicycle tyres yesterday (CONTINENTAL COMFORT CONTACT 700 x 32c CITY COMMUTER ROAD) The tyre I fitted to rear wheel seems to have a bulge in sidewall. Took it off, looks ok inside. It feels perhaps a bit thinner where its bulging. The tube seems a bit big for the tyre but I doubt this could cause it?!? and the front is ok with same tube. Previous tyres were 35c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bulge is perhaps 10mm diameter and 1-2mm deep. Not very visible but immediately feel it if rotating the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were from an ebay shop and arrived twisted / folded in half so as to be much smaller to post - wire bead type. They seem to spring back into normal shape when unpacking them, no visible damage. I assume the folding may have stretched/torn a cord?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, I did remove, inspect, rotate and refit the tyre. The bulge was in the same part of the tyre, so its not the tube. I inflated to about 65psi.  Recommended on the label is 70, max 85.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did see the other post, but that is showing a used, damaged tyre, rather than a brand new one. Thanks I will be sending it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14665" LastEditorUserId="14665" LastEditDate="2014-12-07T21:19:27.030" LastActivityDate="2020-10-02T02:24:57.743" Title="Tyre bulge when inflated, new" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-07T15:46:00.523" Score="2" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently aquired a full suspension bike. However, I have had a hard time finding resources which tell me comprehensive strategies for setting up the suspension (Air pressure, adjustment, dial settings) for my fork and rear shock. What resources are available (outside of individual product manuals) to teach me more about how to set up my suspension properly for optimal performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon brown just doesn't cover supension tuning for 5k wonderbikes, who would have guessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-12-07T15:53:07.883" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T15:12:01.200" Title="Resources for suspension setup and tuning?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-12-09T17:49:56.877" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26023" CreationDate="2014-12-07T16:11:37.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;General for fork and shock:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/video/163229/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pinkbike Tech Tuesday - Suspension Setup part 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/video/163794/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pinkbike Tech Tuesday - Suspension Setup part 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/video/165576/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pinkbike Tech Tuesday - Suspension Setup part 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/video/166180/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pinkbike Tech Tuesday - Suspension Setup part 4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;troubleshooting a shocks behavior with the dials (it's from cane creek but applies to anything):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canecreek.com/resources/docs/DB_Quick-tune_Sheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.canecreek.com/resources/docs/DB_Quick-tune_Sheet.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T16:11:37.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26022" CreationDate="2014-12-07T17:33:18.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something is wrong with the casing. Not safe to ride. Sometimes the come from the factory that way, who knows why. Send it back and get it exchanged. Don't risk a catastrophic blowout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T17:33:18.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25965" CreationDate="2014-12-07T19:22:58.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ma0vnqErScs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;'s footage of my commute to work in Manhattan. It was filmed using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.polaroid.com/cube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Polaroid Cube&lt;/a&gt; camera. I stuck it onto my handlebars using the Polaroid-made handlebars mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YouTube allows you to view the video in various resolutions using the &quot;gear&quot; dropdown. Even in 1080p reading license plates can be a dodgy proposition. I say it depends majorly on lighting (sun from behind - good, from the front - bad). Obviously at night things are quite different as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5647" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T19:22:58.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25921" CreationDate="2014-12-07T20:35:58.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;[ All credit for this answer goes to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/262/nhinkle&quot;&gt;nhinkle&lt;/a&gt;, hence the community wiki ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this &lt;em&gt;specific&lt;/em&gt; case, it's actually fairly easy. The light which you've linked to, the Smart Lunar 35 lux, is actually just a rebranded &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3072.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Planet Bike Blaze 2W Micro&lt;/a&gt; which has a claimed 139 lumens. (A number of Smart products are actually just rebranded from other manufacturers, particularly Planet Bike and Portland Design Works).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have commented, there's not a general way of doing this and you're probably best off concentrating on reviews rather than technical specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14578" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T20:35:58.873" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-12-07T20:35:58.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-08T00:48:03.517" Score="2" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;I must've bought this like 4-5 years ago. My fat ass never got around to using it. I've since lost the Cateye watch I bought with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can anyone identify the model?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you know if it has a ANT+ sensor?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQnuV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no model number identifiers on the product. Removing the battery cap reveals nothing. Searches are turning up nothing. I'd like to keep it, buy another ANT+ watch and start working out finally. But don't want to buy NOS gear if it's not within my interest to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14669" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-07-30T09:34:44.367" LastActivityDate="2017-07-30T09:34:44.367" Title="Can you identify this Cateye HR Sensor E product model?" Tags="&lt;heart-rate&gt;&lt;sensor&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26028" CreationDate="2014-12-08T01:55:13.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not ANT+ - only the HR-11 is listed on &quot;thisisant.com&quot; (and its too old to be ANT+) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it will analogue - most likely would be Polar compatible but cannot be certain. There are Cateye digital monitors, and also ANT+ monitors, the digital ones have &quot;Digital&quot; written on them, which is why I suspect analogue &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best option (IMHO) would be to turf it and go ANT+... The other go down to a local gym, or find a someone with Polar compatible gear and see if their gear picks it up (put in a new battery). But what will you do if you can find this out - buy a new watch based on obsolete technology?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T01:55:13.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2014-12-08T03:00:12.143" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some sports physiological professor at a USA university point out that cycling is not a sitting sport. I totally agreed now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been cycle commuting over 16 years and recently started riding standing up for a round trip of about 15KM. I removed a 24' wheel bike's saddle to force me stand up all the way back and forth and enjoyed it very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6T6f5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14670" LastEditorUserId="14670" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T03:17:55.260" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T03:17:55.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-08T10:00:14.270" Score="0" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite sure what size my spindle is on my giant downhill bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought it a while back and it hasn't caused any problems. I've only recently taken up making it look good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I want is 2 new crank arms to put on it but I'm not sure how big my spindle is in diameter or length. Is there an easy way of measuring it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've measured the diameter: it seems to be about 18-20mm but I think it has a sleeve over it that's about 24mm. The length of the shaft is about 110-115mm. If anyone can help me and tell me what size it probably is I'd much appreciate it. I know there's not too many sizes out there in spindles so it has to be a normal size I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14671" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T11:32:25.563" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T11:32:25.563" Title="Don't know spindle size?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26039" CreationDate="2014-12-08T14:17:26.017" Score="0" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a small town with one bike shop.  It is a good shop that I like a lot.  I am riding an bike that I built 15 years ago but I take it there and spend money on parts and maintenance.  I bought my kids 20&quot; there.  When I can afford the bike I want to replace my bike I will almost certainly buy it from them.  But now I want to buy my elder son a 24&quot; bike.  He is not a really powerful, aggressive rider.  The trails around here involve a lot of climbing.  I really think he would benefit from having a light bike.  There is one bike company that makes really light kids bikes (24&quot; bike  &amp;lt;20 pounds).  The lightest 24&quot; bike from the LBS is closer to 27 pounds.  That is a pretty big difference for somebody that weighs 65 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just curious about how other people feel about situations like this and what they might do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14675" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T19:15:32.667" Title="Torn. Want to support LBS but they don't carry what I really want" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;&lt;lbs&gt;&lt;kids&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-12-08T21:52:20.643" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18864" CreationDate="2014-12-08T15:38:58.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer something between 65-70 on my 700x23 with 175's.  Running a 67.11 right now.  This is a hilly area and I tend spin higher cadence on big cranks.  Yes, it is a challenge downhill, but too many inches and the uphills aren't fun either.  When we do a group fixie ride I will sometimes unclip and put my feet on the high end of the downtube to let the cranks run out on a hill...and yes, I have brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14676" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T15:38:58.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26036" CreationDate="2014-12-08T18:21:16.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't owe the bike shop your business. What I feel is not right is to use the bike shop for sizing or advice then go and buy it online to save a few dollars.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the bike shop is the final point of assembly.  If the bike shop will order it for you then you basically get a free tune up.  Give the bike shop a chance to quote a number and if you can get it direct for a lot less then just tell them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the same but a buddy of mine works as a golf pro.  He has people that try out clubs and then buy them online to save a few dollars.  Then if there is a problem they will come to him and he will tell them to deal with retailer.  They say but I don't want to mail them back.  And we will say then you should have bought them from me in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T18:21:16.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26036" CreationDate="2014-12-08T19:15:32.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my current MTB - I talked to the guy at my favorite LBS (I have a number of specialist but large chain bike shops close by, hes a small operator), and told him what I wanted (He stocked the brand, not the model, and it was end of season so stocks were short supply). I had seen it on the internet for a significant discount, told him that. He made a few phone calls and said &quot;I cannot get one, and even if I could, I could not get close to that price. I am more than happy to assemble it for you if you need (clearly he was meaning for a charge)&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LBS makes money from selling bikes, selling spares and servicing bikes. If you want to support your LBS, (as already suggested in the comments) ask him if he will order one in, and tell him what you have seen at what price. If he cannot or will not order a bike in, he should be more than happy to service it for you and will still sell you parts and accessories. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T19:15:32.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-08T19:50:15.630" Score="5" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a bike with the same cranks setup with a 36t (chainring) / 12t (cog) ratio and the same bike setup with a 48t (chainring) / 16t (cog) ratio, would the effort required to maintain a set speed be the same for both setups or is there some small difference created due to the size of the chainrings? This assumes a 3:1 ratio on both cranks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be a difference in a geared versus single speed (no derailleur, same chainline) configuration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T19:58:18.673" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T00:11:10.410" Title="Is the same effort required to maintain a set speed using different sized chainring / cog combinations with same ratio" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26040" CreationDate="2014-12-08T19:55:23.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chainline would have a (small) effect. &#xA;If you are cross chaining 36 to 12 then that would not be as efficient and cause more wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Geared versus single speed is another question in my mind as a lot changes - type of chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same chainline I doubt the efficiency difference is enough to measure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a smaller rear the chain has to take a tighter radius but you also feed less chainline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a single speed I would go 48t / 16t and then you can go up or down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T20:28:43.167" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T20:28:43.167" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26040" CreationDate="2014-12-08T22:21:10.043" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some points taken from the literature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical efficiency is usually 88-98% for majority of deraileur systems (when clean,lubricated and new)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drivetrain efficiency decreases with smaller rear cogs,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Highest efficiency can be reached at high torques and low cadence,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainline effects are negligible, imposible to note with measurement apparatus,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher efficiency can be obtained with a single-speed as opposed to derailleur use, and there may be a few reasons for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Efficiency of an internal gear hub is generally lower than this of a derailleur system*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your case it's likely that the 48/16 setup will give a slightly higher mechanical efficiency. Also once you've gained the desired speed higher rotational inertia of larger sprockets will help keep the speed at slightly lower effort. On the other hand lighter and smaller sprockets will make it easier to accelerate. However all these changes will be barely noticeable on the road, and especially when the drivetrain is already worn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some research has been done in the past &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp52-2001.pdf&quot;&gt;on this topic&lt;/a&gt;, and there are also pages like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.friction-facts.com/&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, where the data on resistive forces within the drivetrain can be bought.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Reference: Wilson, David G. &lt;em&gt;Bicycling Science 3rd ed&lt;/em&gt;. 2003. p. 342-344&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastEditorUserId="14321" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T00:11:10.410" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T00:11:10.410" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2014-12-08T22:33:58.613" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an interesting thought. If you're tall like me 6.4 or higher and you also have a lot of power, you could end up like me, where the only bikes you can ride are single speeds which have bigger chains and cogs with bigger teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I take a geared bike and pedal it as hard as I can, usually in 32/18 or 32/20 the torque from my long legs will be enough to spin and skip the chainring right out from under the chain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why I need the single gear drive, because the chain is always snug with the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a shame since there were some very fun things about geared bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T06:59:21.517" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T06:59:21.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27106" CreationDate="2014-12-09T14:31:31.953" Score="2" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get a sound from my crank as if something were about to break to pieces when I stand and pedal hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14633" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T05:24:07.957" Title="My bike Crank is making noise like Tuk, Tuk... once or twice when I pedal hard" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26023" CreationDate="2014-12-09T15:12:01.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lee likes bikes has some good info on this stuff, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leelikesbikes.com/bracketing-a-2015-fox-36-rc2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.leelikesbikes.com/bracketing-a-2015-fox-36-rc2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two basic things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Air pressure in shock &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tuning the various damping parameters &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is done by setting the appropriate sag for the kind of riding you do. The sag is the amount of compression in the shock when you are riding on flat ground in your normal &#xA;position. The more &quot;extreme&quot; your riding the more sag you want, XC racers aim for about 20%, All Mountain 25%, Downhill 30%. These are just rough places to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shock or fork generally comes with a rubber ring for helping you to set the sag. If it's not there&#xA;you can use zip tips for the same purpose. Put the marker at the top of the shock, ride&#xA;around the block and record how far down the ring has moved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tuning the various knobs is done via bracketing. Ride at the lowest, then ride at the highest, pick which one is better and then repeat the test with one lower, one higher etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 5 years of riding a full squish, I've not really found much benefit in tweaking the various knobs once you get the sag correct. But don't ride at anywhere near the limits of my bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T15:12:01.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2014-12-09T15:25:08.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been commuting to work on a LWB recumbent since 1989. In those 25 years, I have never had a single driver comment that my bike was hard to see, nor have I had any close calls or collisions, knock wood. I have fallen a couple times due to unseen ice, wetness or rider error...it was kind of like falling off a chair. Contrast that to the accident I had at age 15, flying over the handlebars of a road bike, breaking my collarbone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three main advantages to recumbents: safety, comfort (there is no comparison, and the view is awesome) and finally speed because of their aerodynamics. However this last factor will depend entirely on the fitness of the rider, and the terrain. Recumbents are heavier as a rule, and slightly slower on hills because of this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question of the thread, I believe it is basically because of a perception problem: an unfamiliarity with their advantages, the strangeness/non-conformist factor, and finally the fact that they are not commonplace, so it is hard to test-ride them. Also, the first test ride may feel odd/novel, and may not give a correct indication of how the bike will feel after a week or two--or month or two--of riding...that was certainly my experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14683" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T15:25:08.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26049" CreationDate="2014-12-09T15:44:03.657" Score="16" ViewCount="3239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hear/read everywhere that if you can spend some extra money on the bike, buy better wheels. can someone explain for me why? &#xA;Is it because they are rotating or are there other comfort factors?&#xA;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14644" LastEditorUserId="2187" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T08:43:01.903" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T01:04:06.970" Title="Why are wheels so important for racing?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26048" CreationDate="2014-12-09T16:20:39.317" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheels and tires are the interface between the bike and the road; and are the parts that take the most stress (wear and tear) along with the bottom bracket. (IMO)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lighter wheels will reduce the rotating mass (rotational inertia); you will need less energy to make the wheels accelerate/decelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;higher quality bearings in the hub will reduce friction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;better aerodynamics in the rim and spokes (less energy needed to cut through air) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO, In the end it all matters to weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing serious cycling (i.e. keeping time, strava segments, ... ) it might be a good upgrade; but if you are a little less serious about it, maybe just an expensive christmas gift to self. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13517" LastEditorUserId="25662" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T13:49:41.903" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T13:49:41.903" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21093" CreationDate="2014-12-09T16:43:11.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I would find it difficult to compete with a properly-treated steel bike with regard to cost, durability and repairability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several manufacturers are moving to ED coating, which is essentially a plating process applied to the bare metal of the frame. Because its composition is typically metallic, you can powder coat or paint over it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own two ED-coated bikes: an All-City Space Horse I believe is wet-painted and a Surly Ogre that is powder coated. The Ogre's finish seems to chip a little more easily than either the Space Horse's or many of the powder-coated steel frames I've owned. Time will tell whether the corrosion resistance will be better—I applied Framesaver to both ED-coated frames because I assume the internal coating is not perfect—but I fully expect both bikes will outlive me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastEditorUserId="14684" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T16:48:29.490" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T16:48:29.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24572" CreationDate="2014-12-09T18:27:27.897" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I actually have the same tandem bought from e-bay (UK) around a year ago a bit battered. I have replaced both front and back wheels with usual 26&quot; Shimano Deore mountain bike wheels from my local bike shop. Replaced lots of other stuff as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14686" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T18:27:27.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2014-12-09T19:16:21.623" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;With your key in place, jiggle the lock and key&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried everything else. The most simple solution worked out the best!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14687" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T19:16:21.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26048" CreationDate="2014-12-09T21:37:04.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;[My knowledge is not racing-specific, but as they say, any time two bicycles are moving in the same direction, it&amp;rsquo;s a race.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand-built wheels will tend to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13170/why-are-hand-built-wheels-considered-to-be-better-than-machine-built-wheels&quot;&gt;stronger and more reliable than machine-built wheels&lt;/a&gt;. That is only very loosely true, but the way it was explained to me by an experienced wheelbuilder in a large local shop was that wheelbuilding machines can turn out wheels just as good as hand-built, but to do so the output speed has to be turned way down. This brings up the finished cost of the wheel to a point where the insanely expensive machine has no cost advantage over the human, so is rarely if ever done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more rigid wheel will transmit more energy to the ground because any deformation is inherently a loss of energy, or least a diversion of energy away from your goal of going forward quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lighter wheels give you a large advantage, as rolling weight matters much more than static weight. How much is a matter of some debate, and I find the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/185/how-can-you-speed-a-road-bike-up?lq=1&quot;&gt;2x value given here&lt;/a&gt; to be overly pessimistic, but it&amp;rsquo;s still definitely more than 1x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better spokes matter, too. Spoked wheels are an aerodynamic cluste&amp;mdash; well, they&amp;rsquo;re &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/aero/aerodynamics.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;extremely sub-optimal&lt;/a&gt;. So more &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6088/what-are-the-advantages-or-disadvantages-of-different-spoke-styles&quot;&gt;aerodynamic spokes&lt;/a&gt; will help considerably. As will lacing patterns with lower spoke count (which also help with weight), although those sacrifice some durability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now as to whether all those improvements will help? I am of the opinion that even for those of us who aren&amp;rsquo;t competing (but see qualifier statement above), anything that makes us &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; like we are riding faster and/or with less effort is helpful in that it increases effective endurance. In other words, if you make a cyclist feel faster and/or more powerful, they will tend to ride more, which will, over time, make them faster and/or more powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10638" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T21:37:04.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24572" CreationDate="2014-12-09T22:09:44.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've verified that the hub spacing is 145mm - standard for a tandem.  The hub on the bike is unmarked, unbranded, and Trek's website simply lists it as &quot;alloy hub&quot;.  It appears to be a 135mm hub with a longer axle and spacers in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T22:09:44.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-09T22:46:36.223" Score="2" ViewCount="1639" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I decided to replace my bike tires to Gatorskins to prevent punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, so I installed them and they seemed to be okay. I had checked it a day or two afterwards and it was okay. But this morning, after 3 days, I see the tyre is flat again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hadn't rode it since putting the new tires in (well I rode it quickly round the block to see how it went but that was like 2 minutes). So I'm struggling to figure out what happened. I know sometimes installing a new tire, you can accidentally puncture the new tube and that's happened a few times for me. But they're usually because I've left the sharp object in the tire or I've damaged the tube somehow when trying to install it. Usually if I stuff it up like this, the leak will be apparent and I'll know straight away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this time I'm putting in new tyres and I also used a new inner tube. And the leak took several days so hole must be very slow. Since I haven't rode it, it must've been from me installing it, but what could've caused this? Is it possible to get a slow leak from installing a new tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it have something to do with the tubes I've used? Maybe they're defective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14692" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T10:46:36.860" Title="Is it possible to get a slow leak straight after installing new tires?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2014-12-09T22:54:24.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nabendynamo.de/produkte/edelux.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SON Edelux (first generation)&lt;/a&gt; on my Brompton (which has a SON hub dynamo), because the original halogen head light was not bright enough for my tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the SON Edelux is more compact than the original halogen head light, there is no issue at all with folding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But initially I mounted the Edelux with the Brompton's original head light mount and that one was too weak. The one which came with the Edelux was way more stable, but less easier to mount to the Brompton as it was made out of much thicker material. Worked nevertheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to miss my Edelux, but maybe I'll switch to it's successor, the even more bright &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nabendynamo.de/produkte/edelux2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SON Edelux II&lt;/a&gt;, in the future. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14691" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T22:54:24.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4479" CreationDate="2014-12-09T23:01:31.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well it probably depends on how much you value your time and how fast you can do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can patch a tube but you can buy them new for like $3-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll probably take me 10 minutes more extra to patch it then to just use a new tube. So you're effectively working at about $18 to $24 an hour... given I think most ppl will get paid more than that per hour and given that you'll be doing this in your leisure time where your rate of pay is worth much more than your work time, I would say you're better off just buying the inner tubes in bulk to save on costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14692" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T23:01:31.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26055" CreationDate="2014-12-09T23:13:08.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would more suspect a leaking valve. &#xA;If you pinch the tube putting it in then it is typically not a slow leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the valve is removable the pull it and look for any debris or defect on the seat. &#xA;I had a set of cheap tubes that had like 1/2 loose valves. &#xA;Remove it with pressure in the tire to blow out debris you cannot get to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-10T00:08:36.100" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T00:08:36.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-10T00:15:14.407" Score="2" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;So there are rotors, pads, brake lever, brake cable...I just want to make sure that if i buy brakes I can get all the parts and I'm not missing anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14693" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T00:35:43.173" Title="What are the 'parts' to a mechanical disc brake set?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26059" CreationDate="2014-12-10T00:29:47.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how you buy the brake, so you need to check whats coming with what you're buying. Typically, you get the caliper+pads+rotor+mounting hardware and buy the brake lever (which is a V-brake lever most of the time unless its a road brake in which case its a regular short pull lever) separately along with the cables+housing. In some cases though (esp. buying brakes on eBay), people buy just the caliper+pads+mounting hardware and get rotors separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/ProductDisplay?storeId=10053&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;catalogId=10052&amp;amp;productId=572099&amp;amp;utm_source=Google_Product_Search&amp;amp;utm_medium=pla&amp;amp;utm_campaign=datafeed&amp;amp;cm_mmc=Google_Product_Search-_-PLA-_-Datafeed-_-Avid%20BB7%20Road%20G2%20160mm%20Disc%20Brake&amp;amp;CAWELAID=400006960000083068&amp;amp;source=googleUS&amp;amp;CAGPSPN=pla&amp;amp;catargetid=400006960000088447&amp;amp;cadevice=c&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKEAiA2JqkBRDshIOY_9eMghkSJABvNd1QSr3imSFUEZwPE-Ctq2_h3tBYx08aCN1bbo9lyALzIBoCrf3w_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This example&lt;/a&gt; from Nashbar tells you the Avid BB7 Road comes with &quot;Includes 1 post mount (74mm) caliper, 1 rotor (160mm) with bolts, sintered pads, and 74mm post mount to IS mount adapter&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The typical hardware (Avid BB7 Road with a G2 rotor) is shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jtj2f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;(from Nashbar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this you'd need to add a brake lever (e.g. Tektro RL340), some brake cable and brake housing in order to get a functioning brake system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For maintenance and some description of the important parts, see this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/avid-reg-mechanical-disc-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park tool repair guide&lt;/a&gt; as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-12-10T00:35:43.173" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T00:35:43.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26055" CreationDate="2014-12-10T03:07:57.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm always worried about pinching my tubes when installing them, I've done it loads of times, especially when installing really tight tires. You can pinch a tube just enough to get a slow leak, so you're right to wonder if that's a probable cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could also be the valve as @Blam suggests, especially if it's a schrader valve tube (same valve type as car tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another likely culprit is the rim of the wheel itself. Does the rim have a proper rim tape/rim strip on it? If your rims aren't properly taped, then when you pump your tires up to pressure you can actually puncture the tube on the spokes, or cut the tube on the spoke holes, depending on how many walls your rim has. Check to make sure your tube is protected from the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5DYrG.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5DYrG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rim Strip&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/275/w/wps_08_rim_str.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rockymountainatvmc.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;Simple Ruber Rim tape/strip&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T10:46:36.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26063" CreationDate="2014-12-10T03:53:30.813" Score="2" ViewCount="1038" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a schwinn ranger suntour mountain bike which I enjoy riding and ride frequently.  When the bike was new I had no difficulty shifting through all 21 speeds of the bicycle with 3 gears by the crank and 7 by the rear wheel.  I can shift through the 3 gear speeds with no issue, however currently  when I attempt to shift to any of my rear 7 gears nothing usually happens I appear to be stuck around 2nd or 3rd gear no matter which gear is selected and I am noticing more frequent chain slipping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of slack for the cable for the derailleur for those gears can be adjusted by loosening a screw with an alan wrench, it is currently loose on my bicycle (I haven't been riding around like that)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to regain access the rest of my gears and reduce chain slipping?&#xA;What is the proper technique to resolve this issue of gear shifting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T14:01:13.560" Title="Most Efficient Way to tune rear gears of mountain bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26062" CreationDate="2014-12-10T03:57:31.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, if you haven't &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bent the derailleur&lt;/a&gt; (or its hanger) [such as by having a crash], you should have been using the barrel adjuster as shown in this image &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pFIhm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fezzari.com/img/support/RdRrDerailleur.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in order to make tweaks to the adjustments. The mis-adjustment you were experiencing was likely just &quot;cable stretch&quot; in the non-bent case. The barrel adjuster changes the cable tension, which you were more drastically doing by undoing the bolt which holds the cable (so you may have put wrong cable tension now). From the description, it sounds like you don't have cable tension (and thus the shifters can't pull anything and shift).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the adjustment options (screws) change the derailleur limits (big and small cog) and angle of the derailleur (b-tension). These should be set-it-and-forget-it (unless the derailleur gets banged up, in which case it must be un-banged up and then possibly re-adjusted). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Park Tool has a good description on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to adjust a derailleur&lt;/a&gt;, which you should read and implement (or take the bike to your LBS, give the guy 5 bucks and get him to adjust your derailleur and check if its bent). If the derailleur/hanger is bent, it must be un-bent prior to adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that may be occurring (though unlikely) is excess cable friction in which case the shift cable+housing need replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-12-10T14:01:13.560" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T14:01:13.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26067" CreationDate="2014-12-10T09:54:50.990" Score="18" ViewCount="65308" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next year i would like to commute by bicycle. I need to buy a new bike, but i don't know if to buy a &lt;code&gt;roadbike&lt;/code&gt; or a &lt;code&gt;cyclocross bike&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I live in a more rural area where not every road is tarred perfectly and there are several &quot;gravel highways&quot;, expecially on the shortest distance to my workplace (about 20 km). Now there are several solutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a roadbike and stay on the roads, where the distance is significantly longer (about 25 km).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OR&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy a cyclocross bike and ride on each kind of street.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally the problem is not the distance, but the time i need to commute, especially in the mornings.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So, is a roadbike that much faster than a cyclocross bike so that it's worthwhile to take a longer distance to commute and be even faster? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6072" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T23:29:50.827" Title="Cyclocross bike as fast as a roadbike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="16" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26065" CreationDate="2014-12-10T13:31:58.063" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going to use your bike mostly for commuting, I would like to suggest you go for cyclocross. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motorist Hazard&lt;/strong&gt;: There are always ignorant motorist who think they can save a lot of time by ignoring checking blind spots, appropriate speed at junction, quickly overtake without leaving sufficient space for cyclist. The less time you spend on the road, the less chance you get trapped by those motorists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt;: Going at speed higher than 20 mph (30 kmph) on a road with bicycle is a hazard itself. Imagine having a front tyre blew off while travelling at speed higher than 20 mph, you will have an idea how little control you have over the bike if accident was to happen over 20mph speed. What I mean is you do not need to have a road bike to go at speed between 20-30mph for safety concern, CX will do just fine. People like to go faster than 20mph on bicycle and think it is perfectly safe because they never have an accident, in which I think might just be pure luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Road hazard in rural area&lt;/strong&gt;: (e.g. Oil spilled, pot holes, dead animal carcass ...) You need Braking Power, Stability when doing Emergency braking (skidding), Maneuverability (swerving)... Most of those listed, Cyclocross can offer more than a Road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, I see very little reason for you to choose a Longer distance, opting for Higher Speed and taking chances with Motorist.In commuting, the first priority is safety, then enjoyment (be it higher speed, better scenery, challenging trail) comes secondary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately for me, I learnt it the hard way until I got my best path to work place (avoid most of the road with junctions, motorist are scary with road rage at busy time, especially when you travelling to work/leaving work place)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2018-01-17T23:29:50.827" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T23:29:50.827" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26065" CreationDate="2014-12-10T14:00:42.573" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL:DR Get the CX Bike, you'll love it! You get three bikes in one, without trading in any noticeable performance on the road. This answer is subjective and based on personal experience, you have been warned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a CX bike that is used as a do-it-all bike, and I love it.  For almost all aspects that concern any non-professional cyclist a CX is as good, or even better when compared to a &quot;true&quot; road bike, with some nice added benefits. Here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it to commute because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is fast. It is light. And robust. You can get a second hand one (or similar) for 400$. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It has enough space for comfortable road tires (28 wide fits with ease)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Offroad performance is still great without the use of noisy/bouncy knobby cross tires (I use 700c x 28 Schwalbe Delta Cruisers, a perfect allround tire with enough grip on gravel while still fast and comfortable on the road. 25% of commuting is on gravel/ hardpack sand. In 3000km on these tires not a single flat, plus they are quite affordable!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enough room for mudguards in rainy weather, due to the frame spacing and the cantilever brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In rainy weather, the brakes are designed to keep functioning and not clog up with mud, leaves etc. It is true that canti's are slightly less powerful in dry conditions compared to modern road brakes. But they have proven very reliable under all conditions.  Discs would be even nicer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it for long vacation trips&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;again because of the comfortable tires&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The possiblity to carry quite some stuff on a seat post mounted rack, without worrying about damaging the bike or cracking the frame, since CX bikes are built for strength and durability.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use it for riding with my friends (who all ride &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; expensive shiny carbon bikes) because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We are not pro's, we ride fast, but always for fun. The 700g weight difference (if that) between my bike and theirs does not matter to me. How much beer we had last night has a much bigger impact on how fast I am. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even use it for light MTB duty because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a set of old pretty beat up off-road only wheels for the bike with CX tires, swapping wheels takes only 1 min. thanks to the canti brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bike is very fast on grassy/forest singletracks, as long as there are not too many braches, steep climbs or large drops you can easily keep ahead of most &quot;real&quot; MTB's. Of course this is only within reasonable limits, I am not saying a CX bike can do any seriously challenging terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In deep mud, the thinner CX tires cut through the mud and ride on the solid surface beneath the mud, where the MTB's float and lose traction. Up to about 3 inches of watery mud on top of a more solid surface a CX bike will be faster than wide MTB tires. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of all this, here in Europe CX is pretty much a niche market. Most road bikers won't touch a CX bike, because they think they are slow (not true, as long as you don't race for a living). High end new CX bikes are all that leave the shops, those bikes then end up on the second hand market after a few years, where nobody seems to want them, thus you can get a much nicer bike for your $.&#xA;All parts are interchangeable with road bikes too, apart from the brakes, so upgrading is always an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, CX bikes are just more rugged road bikes that seem to get very little attention by the mainstream road crowd. Too bad for CX manufacturers, but good for us no-nonsense bikers who are looking for a 3-in-1 bike solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2014-12-10T14:06:39.680" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T14:06:39.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26065" CreationDate="2014-12-10T14:44:47.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really like the title.  It is more about selecting a commuting bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cyclocross can handle gravel and road hazards and is still built for speed. &#xA;On the open road cyclocross does not give up much. For the same price level bike cyclosross would be barely heavier, little wider, and a little taller.  It would also be geared a little lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could put 32mm tires on the road bike it would have very little advantage over a cyclocross with 32 mm tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute on a cyclocross with 35 mm tires and have a second set of wheels with 28 mm tires to ride it as a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gravel or light touring bike is also an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With disc brakes coming out on road bikes you can push up into 28 and 30 mm tires on some road bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-10T14:56:48.330" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T14:56:48.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-10T14:53:16.023" Score="1" ViewCount="11382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a brand new bike and it came partially assembled in the box.&#xA;I don't have a whole lot of experience when it comes to working on or building bikes but I managed to put it together. theres a major problem though. The front wheel gets caught in the brake pads and rubs against the metal part (fork?) its attached to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't get it. I followed all the instructions and I bolted it on good. I adjusted the brakes and that seemed to help somewhat. it started spinning more without really getting stopped but then I noticed that the wheel wobbles a bit when it spins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know what the problem is? did I do something wrong? or is the bike wheel defective? What should I do? I would really like to avoid sending it back mainly because it would be a big hassle and plus, the box it came in is pretty much destroyed. can I somehow fix this on my own? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of just bringing it to a bike shop but I'm pretty low on funds and I'm not sure how much something like this would cost to fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All help is greatly appreciated Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14704" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T15:06:59.243" Title="Wheel Wobbles and Rubs on Brand New Bike?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26069" CreationDate="2014-12-10T15:03:32.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue you are having is the wheel is &quot;out of true&quot;.  This is caused by uneven spoke tension.  It can be adjusted, but it's easy to go wrong here and make it worse if you don't know what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most good bikes are bought from bike shops.  This allows the shop to properly assemble and adjust the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know someone who can do it (and possibly teach you) that would be your cheapest option.  (six-pack of beer?).  Otherwise, I recommend you take it to the bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to do it yourself, you'll need a spoke wrench and a lot of patience.  There are youtube videos that can show you how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still recommend a bike shop.  Most bikes from stores are not properly assembled at all.  Many times the bearings have not been greased.  The &quot;cheap&quot; bike seldom is actually cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastEditorUserId="11445" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T15:06:59.243" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T15:06:59.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2014-12-10T15:12:04.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00DYTVM2O&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;B&amp;amp;M fork mount adapter&lt;/a&gt; not only fits B&amp;amp;M battery lights, but also works with Planet Bike Blaze and a few other inexpensive lights.  This fork-crown mount is the same location that Brompton provides lights for, so it shouldn't interfere with folding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T15:12:04.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2014-12-10T16:33:41.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is another take coming from a 67 year old.&#xA;In my early twenties I picked up a used 55 top tube Peugeot, of course with down tube shifters. I am only 5'6&quot;, with short legs and long arms.  I got used to the stretched out feeling, so have always preferred a big bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   The standover has never been an issue, because I never dismount a bike by going forward.  I always lean the bike one side or the other and put down a leg.&#xA;   As I have aged and accrued various sports injuries, what has become important is to find a position that avoids aggravation.&#xA;   You need to know what parts of your body to favor.&#xA;   Remember that the shorter frame puts more pressure on the hands, elbows, mid back and neck. The longer frame puts pressure on the shoulder joint and lower back.  Sitting up straight puts more pressure on the butt, less on the hands.&#xA;You can develop chronic pain by not paying attention to what you are doing.&#xA;   Also remember that you will put pressure on your knees in different ways depending upon the relationship of where you sit and where the pedals move.  I find standing and sitting forward puts pressure on the front ligaments and bones of the knee, also an effect caused by a shorter top tube.  Remaining seated back on a saddle setback and long top tube causes me to use the muscles in back of the knee.&#xA;   Lifting the thigh from the hip joint during the stroke helps ease pressure on the knees.&#xA;   Be realistic in your biking aspirations.  Go for comfort first. It will pay in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14707" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T16:33:41.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26069" CreationDate="2014-12-10T18:23:06.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;New bikes at the very least require a full check and tune up out of the box. They also need to be &quot;broken in&quot; in many cases. New wheels can go out of true just from being ridden for the first time, one of my favourite things after building a new bike was to ride it around the shop and listen to all the spoke nipples make their &quot;pinging&quot; noises as they settled themselves into their spoke holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes in boxes get banged around during shipping too, I've opened boxes and seen brand new bikes with their wheels completely taco'd because someone crushed it with a forklift during shipping. they also get banged around and dropped just from being handled. Building a bike out of the box is rarely a simple matter of &quot;some assembly required,&quot; I worked in one shop that required a one hour bike build, the owner insisted every part have it's threads greased and be reinstalled, including the shift and brake cables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because your bike is new doesn't mean it's going to be set up perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T18:23:06.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26075" CreationDate="2014-12-10T19:25:01.870" Score="5" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am practicing the technique of cornering, where one must lean the bicycle into the turn, while keeping the body more or less vertical. A (possibly exaggerated) picture I found on Google:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TmxOb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, when keeping the pedals horizontal, I always ride with my left foot ahead of the right one (like the guy on the picture does). When I turn left (like in the picture), everything is OK. But when I turn right, the saddle gets in the way (you can imagine it by looking at the picture - if he turned right, the saddle would push his right leg out of place).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do about it? The following works but is not ideal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch the legs when changing turning direction - inconvenient because I am used to the &quot;left foot ahead&quot; posture, and also because changing too often throws me off-balance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the saddle - works very good, but then my legs don't rest, and get tired very quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-08-01T00:03:29.733" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T00:03:29.733" Title="Saddle getting in the way when cornering on MTB - what to do?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26074" CreationDate="2014-12-10T19:48:25.227" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe popular advice for MTB carving is to drop the outside pedal, rather than keeping the pedals horizontal.  If you then dump your weight to the outside pedal (off your bars) you can lower your center of gravity some and in the case of pumping that weight dump, increase your traction.  While keeping your pedals horizontal for obstacles increases your clearance, it isn't what you want cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T19:48:25.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26065" CreationDate="2014-12-10T21:37:11.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another factor to keep in mind is the maintenance issue. Riding on gravel roads will flick up dirt on to your chain much faster than riding on sealed surface. You will need to do cleaning and maintenance more regularly and chain and drive train wear will occur quicker. You might find that the total amount of time (riding + cleaning/maintenance) will be less if you stay on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT - for me the key issue is safety. Choose your bike to suit the safest route. Look at traffic level, typical car speeds, road condition/width, intersections etc. If you have a cycling club in your area - ask them, they'll know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14709" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T21:37:11.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26074" CreationDate="2014-12-10T22:41:29.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A technological solution is a Dropper Seat Post. But you should really learn to switch legs to match the turn. You generally want the outside leg down and weighted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/P2PIcover.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.leelikesbikes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/P2PIcover.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h98Mx.png&quot; alt=&quot;MTB cornering with outside foot down&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T22:41:29.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26048" CreationDate="2014-12-11T00:10:24.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You win non-TT bike races by being able to accelerate just that little bit much more than your competition. 99.9% of the time you are riding exactly the same speed as everyone else, what makes the difference between winning and losing is your ability to accelerate just a bit better than your competitors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humans are very low power engines. Since F = MA, one of the easiest ways to increase A is to decrease M. Low weight, low drag wheels will help you accelerate faster. Since wheels are rotational mass, you get a bigger bang for your buck in reducing their weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike racers obsess over the weight of gear to improve their ability to get to speed, reducing weight generally doesn't help your average speed much ( except when climbing a long hill). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T00:10:24.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25962" CreationDate="2014-12-11T01:57:03.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I come to this question as (in chronological order) a speed skater, cyclist, and runner. I have been a full-time Data Whore since early 2007. I have used various Garmin devices and smartphones. What I have found works best is the device that is on your person, with a sufficiently charged battery, and actually recording data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spent five years using a Garmin Forerunner 205 on a daily basis. That thing rocks, but Garmin’s device firmware that provides the user interface is just universally terrible. In spite of that, they are still very good devices for their intended purpose. After swearing I’d never buy another Garmin I was given a 405CX and after giving that away a few months later, was given a Forerunner 305. I still use that to this day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smartphones are great for “light” use, but when the GPS radio is running full-time, as required for an accurate athletic recording, battery life will absolutely be an issue. If the total riding time in a day will never exceed a couple hours, a smartphone could work. If devices such as heart rate monitors, cadence sensors, etc., are desired, they can be used with various smartphones by way of either ANT+ adapters or using Bluetooth accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve also long had issues with chest strap HRMs, in that they simply don’t stay up when I run. If I tighten the strap enough to keep it in place, it makes me nauseous. But recently I have realized that putting the sensor on the left side of the ribcage just below the armpit still gives a good read and stays in place better, and that even letting the whole thing slide down so that the sensor is over the solar plexus still seems to work. And I’m a relatively thick-chested male; conventional wisdom is that smaller females tend to have an easier time getting a read because there is less tissue to attenuate the electrical impulses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, all that said… I say spring for a standalone GPS device if possible. They will offer significantly better battery life, and at least as of late 2014, still use much better radio hardware which makes for more accurate and less glitchy data. Many of them can be quick-release mounted on either handlebars or a wrist strap. But if you do go with a phone positioning accuracy will be close enough, and without a whole lot of biometric data (not just heart rate but also oxygen usage), caloric expenditure is just a wild guess anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10638" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T01:57:03.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-11T03:19:57.487" Score="0" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner cyclist.So ,I want to know which things I have to do regularly.And what will be the time interval ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example :Pump,tuning etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14700" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T03:31:33.213" Title="Essential regular things to do" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-12-11T13:57:38.903" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26081" CreationDate="2014-12-11T03:31:33.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your tire pressure regularly.  Different tires (tubes, actually) have different &quot;leak down&quot; rates, but at a very minimum check once a week, and probably every 3 days (or before every ride).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean/lube your chain.  Depends a lot on riding conditions, but in &quot;average&quot; conditions you should clean/lube every 200 miles or so.  More often in wet, sloppy conditions or in extremely dusty conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inspect your wheels.  Hold the end of the bike up and spin the wheel.  Check for any wobble (watch right next to the brake blocks for rim brakes) and check that there are no serious bulges in the tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your chain for stretch.  Get an inexpensive chain stretch gauge and check after you clean the chain.  Replace the chain when it's too far stretched (about every 2000 miles).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your sprockets for wear when you replace the chain.  How to do this is a bit involved for a short answer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your brake blocks for wear maybe every 500 miles.  The blocks should be mating nicely with the rim and not worn to the point that the metal holder is close to scraping the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are others I'm not thinking of at the moment.  And this question is likely a dupe and there are other threads with more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T03:31:33.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18925" CreationDate="2014-12-11T03:37:46.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it's really cold and especially blustery and blowing snow I throw on a pair of Spoggles. They come in clear and most tint and mirrored lenses. They are our company standard for safety glasses on site so I have a ready supply. Great for commuting as they have a vented foam inner ring for each eye socket. Bolle and Uvex also make their versions. Although they are safety glasses they fit like sport specific shades. Some are definitely more stylish if that's part of your selection criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I work in an industrial area and commute 30km daily in traffic mixed with cars to transports, heavy equipment and gravel trucks. These Spoggles do a fantastic job of keeping debris out of my eyes offer great visibility and end up being a great alternative to a ski goggle for winter riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14711" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T03:37:46.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27084" CreationDate="2014-12-11T07:39:38.087" Score="7" ViewCount="60248" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine a mountain bike that uses a 29er fork with 29er wheel and a 27.5 wheel at the rear. Can this be realized and what are the pros and cons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15711" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T08:59:40.893" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T18:21:52.923" Title="Can I combine different wheel sizes in one mtb?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;29er&gt;&lt;27-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26065" CreationDate="2014-12-11T09:32:08.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a road-bike and swapped it for a cyclo-cross. I'm never going back to a road-bike. For me, the cyclo-cross is just as fast if not faster. The cyclo-cross feels more stable and I feel like I have more control at speed so am prepared to go faster. With the wider tyres I'm not so worried about hitting a bit of rough road or a grate as it'll fly over without jolting me about. It's a little bit comfier... so it's easier to keep pedalling if the surface isn't perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After getting the CX I bought thinner road tyres for it, but after putting 32mm back on for some offroading, I just found I felt so much happier on the bike that I didn't want to bother putting the road tyres back on. And, I think I only got faster with the slightly wider tyres, not slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I can't think of any point where the road bike was better than the CX. The CX does everything the road bike did and a lot more. I wouldn't think of fitting panniers to a road-bike for carrying extra stuff, but with the CX I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I would have liked is disc-brakes. I bought my CX a couple of years ago, just before they were starting to ship with disc-brakes. On my mountain bike, I've got disc brakes, and they are great. I wouldn't consider getting a new bike that didn't have discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="472" LastEditorUserId="472" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T09:37:49.763" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T09:37:49.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27082" CreationDate="2014-12-11T09:42:59.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this and there are even bikes that are designed to do so, for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/09/13/2013-liteville-mountain-bikes-updates-frames-w-scaled-sizing-mix-n-match-wheel-combos/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this bike here&lt;/a&gt; by a company called &lt;em&gt;Liteville&lt;/em&gt;. This bike is not only intended to be used with mixed wheel sizes but does also allow to change the wheel sizes used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why would one want to do so? Without having explicitly searched for reasons, I would guess that one can use the advantages of the different sizes where they are needed: The bigger the wheel, the less prone it is to change its direction, giving you a more stable ride at high speeds and on not too curvy tracks. A smaller wheel on the other hand is more &quot;wobbly&quot; at high speeds but is stiffer and can handle higher impact forces. If you put those together on a bike with the bigger wheel in front and the smaller in the rear, you get a downhill bike that drives stable on fast and rather straight tracks, that can handle also take hard drop landings on the back wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you would try to do this with an average frame by just replacing the fork and mounting the respective wheels, you would quite surely end up with a mess. As the frame is designed for a certain wheel size in the front &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; back, all the angles between the frame parts are designed to give certain ride characteristics. If you just swap the wheel sizes, things like the head and seat tube angle will change significantly, giving the bike totally different handling characteristics. Normally those new characteristics will not fit into what one would call good handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum it up: one can try such thing with a random frame just for fun, but if one seriously wants to build such a bike, one has to start planing it from the frame geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T09:42:59.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27082" CreationDate="2014-12-11T10:17:55.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically it can be done. Different wheel sizes were used over the years, starting from late 1980s in some niche touring bikes, where front wheel was significantly smaller than the rear one. Mountain bikers have used a setup of 26&quot; wheel at the front and 24&quot; at the back, especially for downhill (even at World Cup level) at the beginning of this century, when frames tended to be suspended ridiculously high. However with the progress in frame design, this idea lost its popularity lately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The points raised in favour of the 26&quot;/24&quot; setup were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lower bottom bracket, thus lower centre of mass meaning better control on the downhill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;flatter&quot; head tube angle, which gives better stability at high speed and again, more control on descents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smaller wheel is easier to propell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smaller wheel means shorter spokes, which adds to its stiffness,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shorter effective top tube which helps to lean more backwards on really steep sections.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arguments of the other side were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lower bottom bracket could mean hitting the ground with your crank when frame suspension is fully compressed (applicable to full-suspension bikes only, but only such bikes used this trick at the time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need relatively higher pressure in your rear tire to make up for smaller volume of it. This in turn will give worse grip of this wheel,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller wheel will generally have a smaller area of contact with the ground, which can mean worse grip, but also posibility of getting stopped by obstacles which could be overcome by your front, bigger wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Due to flat head and seat tube angles, going uphill, especialy on steep and technical fragments can get more tricky (obviously no one would ride uphill on their 25kg downhill bike back then, this is more applicable to today's bikes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;worse aerodynamics, but it's not what you do it for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these points are equally valid for all configurations with the larger wheel at the front. Basically the goal of such change is usually to make a bike beter on the descents, not looking at its performance on flat gruond or uphills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to your specific case: note that the difference between a 29&quot; and a 27.5&quot; wheel is not very significant - ~6% when we look at ISO rim diameters. Therefore if you aren't too sensitive to geometry changes, you may not even feel the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And obviously you need a 29er frame for this to make sense. If you decided to put a 29er fork and front wheel on a 650b frame, you would end up with a bike unsteerable on flat surfaces and exhausting to your knees. There are a few bikes on the market which use various wheel sizes, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain-bikes/product/review-trek-69er-3x9-09-32742/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Trek&lt;/a&gt; with a 29&quot;/26&quot; setup, but it's still a niche.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the side note: a small brand called Unibike once made a cross-country bike with a 26&quot; wheel at the front and 29&quot; at the back. This idea seemed a bit pointless for off-road use, but they tried to forces itfor some 2 years, before letting it die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastEditorUserId="14321" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T13:05:18.253" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T13:05:18.253" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27082" CreationDate="2014-12-11T14:21:40.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is definitely possible and some years ago, the combination of a 26&quot; rear wheel and a 29&quot; front wheel was somewhat popular (though still far from mainstream) in the MTB scene. These bikes are sometimes referred to as 69ers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ug7GR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trek 69er&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining a 27.5&quot; rear wheel (and thus 27.5&quot; frame) with a 29&quot; front wheel (and fork), should be relatively easy. As long as the fork fits the frame (mainly stem diameter), you should have no issues.&#xA;If there are any advantages to these mixed wheel bikes, I can't say. But they sure look pretty badass to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for naming your newly created beast, I would suggest going all-out in trying to complicate the name of your creation as much as possible, perhaps 79.5er, or even 7.59er? 650b29? Make the ERTRO cry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T07:41:49.650" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T07:41:49.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2014-12-11T15:08:16.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike is designed to support your weight during normal driving conditions, namely sitting. However you can usually stand up with little extra tear since the frame is constructed to support your entire weight on any one pedal (Usually how you get on to the bike in the first place). Care should be taken as to how much force you apply to the drive chain, but common sense and using the right gear as you normally would, should be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should stand rather than sit when you cross bumps, this way the shock is transfered through the frame to the other wheel rather than through the frame and applied to the momentum of your body. This dramatically reduces the stress on your materiel and is also generally a better ride comfort practice. Doing this you can more safely cross on to sidewalks and the likes without risking puncture or rim damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15715" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T15:08:16.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-11T15:32:54.273" Score="0" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a Marin comfort bike, about 99% on pavement.  That should mean that I don't need disc brakes, but I'm really sick of these weak, shuddering, howling, screeching, whistling, locking caliper brakes.  I've taken them in for service and they work normally for 2 days, then back to their ridiculous behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I try to convert to disc brakes, or look for a new comfort bike that already has them?  Are there some better pads or calipers or some kind of rim attachment that I could use?  I'm at the midpoint on price, the bike was around $500, and I'm at the low end on mechanical ability.  I don't want to bend way over or have a rougher ride (in fact the Marin is already kind of a harsh ride with the tires inflated to 65, and the tires won't stay at 65 more than a day or two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15716" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T18:18:31.150" Title="Comfort bike brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27091" CreationDate="2014-12-11T15:42:42.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting disc brakes on a bike that wasn't designed for them (which a comfort bike most likely is not) would be quite expensive and quite difficult. First, your frame has to have the mounting brackets for disc brakes. For the front you can get a new fork. For the back you'd have to have one welded on, and even in that case it might not be a good solution as the frame wasn't designed to have one there.  Then you have to have wheels with hubs that are compatible with a disc rotor.  By the time you get around to getting all this done, you've probably spent close to as much as your bike is worth, if not more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as fixing your current situation, what might help is getting higher quality caliper brakes. I would think that the brakes on a $500 bike might be a little sub par. New/better brakes should not be that expensive and should be able to be fit on the bike quite easily, at minimal cost to you. Good quality caliper brakes do not exhibit any of the problems you describe and should stay tuned for quite few miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you should expect that your tires deflate a little after a few days. This is normal.  Get a good pump and get in the habit of topping them up every few days.  As long as they aren't leaking extremely fast, such as down to almost nothing in a couple days, you're ok. Dropping 5-10 psi in a few days isn't out of the ordinary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T15:42:42.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27082" CreationDate="2014-12-11T16:46:33.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding a 26 back, 27.5 front for about 4 years now. It works great for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does significantly change the geometry of the bike, but that is exactly what I wanted. I had a relatively upright XC bike and the change in geometry gave me a slacker headtube and longer wheelbase. This does make the bike less of a capable climber, but it's a much nicer descender. There are a lot of advantages to having a bigger wheel upfront. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I have been better off just buying a bike with the geometry and weight I wanted? Maybe, but I would have spent a lot more money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different wheel sizes have been used in Moto-X motorcycles for years. Humans probably aren't powerful enough engines really take advantage of this, but it can &#xA;work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles have just about the right level of robustness and complexity to be fun toys to tinker with. If you've got the time and money, experiment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T16:46:33.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27097" CreationDate="2014-12-11T18:07:24.513" Score="1" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;While inspecting a used road bike ($200) I pulled the rear wheel off to check the hub. I twisted the axle to see if there was any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't at all difficult to turn it, but there was a bit of &quot;indexing&quot; feel as though the hub was adjusted a little too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy told me that bike had been ridden for a long time (at least 5k miles) without having any maintenance done on the hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hub was overtightened originally it's impressive that it lasted this long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I take the hub apart, can I expect to find damage on the races? (more importantly the cups)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the guy to let me take the hub apart. The cones have some damage. The cups have damage too, but it's so, so slight that I didn't find it on the first round of inspection. It just so happened that I had time to look at it again, and noticed tiny pits, barely visible (I have better than 20/20 vision).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm still going to buy the bike, considering that the hub body must be made of good stuff to stand up as well as it did to the non-maintenence it received. I'll probably have to change the hub in another year or so. I think it's worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T20:07:24.620" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T11:56:41.783" Title="Is this hub shot?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27091" CreationDate="2014-12-11T18:18:31.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like the brakes spec'd for the Marin Stinson are entry-level aluminum linear-pull type. Replacing the whole brake assembly on both wheels &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; help, but since inexpensive pads are one place manufacturers tend to cut costs, you might try a new set of pads first. I've had good luck with Kool Stop and would go with the salmon compound or dual compound if you ride in the rain any more than once in a great while. The pads should run around $15/wheel and a shop should give you a price on installation before they do the work. Expect maybe $50 total before tax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because your current shop has not been able to remedy this problem, you might try another if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T18:18:31.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27095" CreationDate="2014-12-11T18:25:34.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the cones were too tight, the hub would have died a long time ago. Based on what you're describing, the grease is definitely contaminated and most likely the cones are pitted to some degree. Cups tend to be more durable than cones, but there's no guarantee that they won't be pitted too. You'll find out for sure when you disassemble it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A proper overhaul would include new cones if the old ones are pitted, new ball bearings and fresh grease. Pitted cups would probably mean it's time for a new hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T18:25:34.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26065" CreationDate="2014-12-11T18:42:18.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider opting for neither and instead look for a so-called &quot;gravel&quot; or &quot;adventure&quot; bike. Both are relatively new categories, but either could be described as an &quot;all-road&quot; option. They're really road bikes that are meant for paved and unpaved roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their advantages over contemporary road bikes include more clearance for larger tires and fenders, better accommodation for racks, and often, a more upright riding position. The advantage over contemporary cyclocross bikes would be a lower bottom bracket, more stable handling, and improved comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples include: the Surly Straggler, Raleigh Tamland, and All-City Space Horse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal experience is with riding a Surly Cross Check (similar to the Straggler) with quality wheels and larger tires (700x40c Clement MSO, mostly) on thousands of miles of pavement and gravel roads. It's not appreciably slower than a road bike over long distances, and is far more comfortable and versatile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastEditorUserId="14684" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T19:07:12.677" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T19:07:12.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26045" CreationDate="2014-12-11T19:34:35.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have this checked by a mechanic immediately. There are at least 4 possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the crank arms is loose or cracked. This is the most dangerous, since a failure at the wrong time could cause you to lose control of the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bearing is loose or worn out in either the bottom bracket or one of your pedals. A pedal could also fail catastrophically, though it's unusual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chainring bolts might be loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bike's frame might be cracked. Unlikely, and worth checking only after other possibilities have been eliminated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common cause tends to be a worn out bottom bracket bearing or loose crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T19:34:35.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27082" CreationDate="2014-12-11T19:54:38.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Right about the time fat bikes were about to become popular, I put a 26x4&quot; front tire (which has the same diameter as a 29x2&quot; tire) on a 26&quot; bike, without changing anything else. The result was similar to a 69er, raising the front hub by about an inch. Besides improving handling on descents (perhaps due in part to the wider tire), it really didn't affect things all that much in dry conditions. Sure improved handling in the snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/mababo/4283816886&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Pony 2010 Race Config by Michael Lemberger, on Flickr&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4062/4283816886_9777a9c53f.jpg&quot; width=&quot;500&quot; height=&quot;375&quot; alt=&quot;Pony 2010 Race Config&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T19:54:38.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27157" CreationDate="2014-12-11T22:33:57.180" Score="0" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the Xmas sales some internet shops started making offers on roll trainers. My target area would be an intermediate machine, something that I would use an hour or so daily, with two-three hours rides once per week (the actual usage of the trainer will be lower as I tend to alter biking with jogging, swimming, and work-outs/yoga in the gym).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I narrowed down my search to these models:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.de/Kurt-Kinetic-Road-Machine-2014/dp/B00F4TVDJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1418313826&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=Kurt%20Kinetic%20Road%20Machine%20Fluid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kurt Kinetic Road Machine II T2200&lt;/a&gt;: 330 Euro &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.zweirad-stadler.de/Fahrrad-Teile/Rollentrainer/Tacx-Rollentrainer-T-2200-Flow.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tacx Rollentrainer T-2200 Flow&lt;/a&gt;: 200 Euro &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.zweirad-stadler.de/Fahrrad-Teile/Rollentrainer/Tacx-Ergotrainer-T2220-Flow-Multiplayer-VR-Trainer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tacx Ergotrainer T2220 Flow Multiplayer VR Trainer &lt;/a&gt;: 333 Euro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.de/2014-Cycleops-Fluid-Turbo-Trainer/dp/B00EPM7T1M/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1418336770&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=Cycleops%20Fluid%20Turbo%20Trainer%20Fluid%202&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2014 Cycleops Fluid Turbo Trainer Fluid 2&lt;/a&gt;: 300 Euro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a frequent half-marathon runner and passionat mountain and road-biker. Currently, I am training for a marathon. Any comments, which model should I opt? As one may notice, I opt for a machine that is around 300 Euro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6541" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T23:54:46.250" Title="Fluid trainer for an intermediate rider" Tags="&lt;rollers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-12-16T15:00:00.370" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26048" CreationDate="2014-12-11T23:45:29.620" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheels are an easy upgrade to make as you can put them on your bike immediately with little mechanical hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many factors related to a wheel's performance, but the one that makes the greatest difference to energy/power demand, speed and accelerations is aerodynamics. Hence why one of the most popular upgrades is to wheels with better aerodynamic properties. Wheel weight is generally way over rated as a factor in performance, and I'll come back to that later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors other than aerodynamics and weight include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;durability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ability to stay round and true&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lateral stiffness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;repair-ability and service cost &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suitability for the purpose/race/riding situation &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;braking demands &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;handling characteristics &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;available tyre choices &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bearing and freehub quality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rules of competition &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suitability for the bike (e.g. will it fit?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sex appeal / bling factor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and so on.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even adding weight to a wheel rim in order to improve aerodynamics is a good trade off. However don't get sucked into thinking that the performance improvement will turn you into a racing star. The performance improvement is incremental, not revolutionary, and other factors are important when training or rolling around town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While reducing a wheel rim's mass does give you very slight advantage during accelerations (it has no impact on steady state riding), improving the wheel's aerodynamics is by far more important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heavier but more aero wheel will still accelerate faster (or require less power to accelerate at the same rate), and it will attain higher speeds (or require less power to sustain any given speed). This is also true even when climbing, except when the climb gets very steep (how steep depends on your individual power, mass and aero properties).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a blog post with more detailed example of the small impact to performance of adding mass to your wheel's rims, and how that extra mass is worth it if it results in better aerodynamics, even for the hardest acceleration scenario there is on a bike, a standing start:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://alex-cycle.blogspot.com.au/2014/12/the-sum-of-parts-ii.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The sum of the parts II&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastEditorUserId="13358" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T21:25:56.583" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T21:25:56.583" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-12T01:24:52.863" Score="2" ViewCount="2033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike-discounter.de/images07/Croozer/cro-cargo-146101006-gr01-11-neues-Design.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2012/2013 Croozer Cargo trailer&lt;/a&gt; and its trailer hitch is very clunky. It's also difficult to couple and uncouple and I've hurt myself multiple times on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikekidshop.com/cart/images/croozer-bike-trailer-hitch-stock.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quadratic bolt sticking out at height of bicycle's rear axle&lt;/a&gt;. Additionally the part mounted to the bicycle makes it wider which causes issue when putting it in the boot of my car. (The bicycle is a Brompton folding bike and hence the size of the hitch matters, at least if it sticks out on the side like 5cm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://croozerdesigns.com/products/croozer-cargo/croozer-cargo-detail/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;new Croozer Cargo models&lt;/a&gt; at a dealer and I noticed that they now have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://croozerdesigns.com/accessories/replacement-hitch-dog-and-cargo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;completely different trailer hitch system&lt;/a&gt;. Way more compact, less clunky, no more sharp 90° edges and easier to couple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the dealer there's no chance of getting the new hitch system combined with my previous generation trailer—but this didn't seem a technical founded answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyone here knows if there's a possibility of retro-fitting my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike-discounter.de/images07/Croozer/cro-cargo-146101006-gr01-11-neues-Design.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;previous generation Croozer Cargo trailer&lt;/a&gt; with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://croozerdesigns.com/accessories/replacement-hitch-dog-and-cargo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;current generation Croozer trailer hitch&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14691" LastEditorUserId="14691" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T14:56:22.150" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T22:09:42.913" Title="Is there a possibility to mount a 2014/2015 Croozer Cargo trailer hitch onto a 2012/2013 model?" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26004" CreationDate="2014-12-12T02:51:04.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chances are it's a paint with a layer of  clear coat underneath the paint you applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd get some wet &amp;amp; dry sandpaper (black stuff) - about 80-120 grit to start with - and scuff up a portion of the frame. Clean it often with a rag and some soapy water to make sure as soon as you get to the clear coat you have stopped. If that works then do the rest, and finish off the job with some 400-800 grit sandpaper to take out the sanding marks and then hit it with some rubbing compound or polish (stuff designed for cars will be cheap and will work well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be there all day with rubbing compound...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15723" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T02:51:04.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26045" CreationDate="2014-12-12T05:24:07.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fault turned out to be a crippled ratchet in my rear hub. I got it replaced but am thinking of replacing my old bike now, it served me 10000Km in every season, every road in 2 years plus 3000Km in 3 years, a good service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14633" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T05:24:07.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27109" CreationDate="2014-12-12T08:31:55.803" Score="0" ViewCount="1976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shopping for 110 BCD chain rings and I noticed that some of the SRAM ones are labeled &quot;YAW FD only&quot;.  As far as I can tell the derailleur doesn't touch the chainring so whats so special?  Can I safely use this chainring with a shimano FD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14133" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T11:17:38.487" Title="What does the chainring have to do with SRAM YAW" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27123" CreationDate="2014-12-12T10:29:04.197" Score="0" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;My front brake is not operational and it will be a couple of days before the replacement Shimano Deore arrives. There are probably other use cases for braking with a rear brake. For example, pad glazing or boiling fluid due to  excessive use of front brake downhill. Or sudden brake cable failure (has happened to me - the cable got cut at the caliper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have determined that my stopping distance is about 3 times that of both brakes operational.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the center of gravity of the rider is not located on the line between the two contact &quot;points&quot; of the bicycle with the ground, when decelerating an overturning moment is generated. The result is more weight on the front wheel and less on the rear wheel. More weight equals more traction or more stopping power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any techniques for effectively stopping with only a rear brake? Some way to put more weight on the rear wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes: basic Shimano hydraulic discs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tires: Schwalbe Land Cruiser&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Use: commuting and local autumn trails    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T09:02:07.320" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T18:00:36.673" Title="How to decelerate effectively with a rear brake?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27107" CreationDate="2014-12-12T11:10:05.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/road/technologies/yaw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SRAM&lt;/a&gt; on YAW:&#xA;&amp;quot;The front derailleur cage rotates to maintain a consistent angular relationship with the chain. Yaw technology eliminates the need for shifter trim. As a result, shifts feel more direct, more precise, and combined with the new Red crankset and chainrings, delivers an unmatched performance advantage in front shifting.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/news/it-works-we-test-sram-red-backwards-compatibility_209270&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Velonews&lt;/a&gt;, you can use the chainring* with a Shimano setup, but you might get some chain rub (scroll down to compatibility grades). If you are not running a SRAM Yaw FD, I'd probably just avoid these rings and get normal ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See the &amp;quot;Swapping chainrings&amp;quot; section of the same article on issues with the small ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T11:17:38.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27108" CreationDate="2014-12-12T12:00:40.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there's a technique, however I strongly recommend you to fix the front brake. Rear only is dangerous.&#xA;The rear wheel tends to block much sooner than the front one because of reasons you mentioned in the question so the obvious way is to avoid blocking as much as possible. First, you can emulate ABS on the car by quickly pressing and releasing brakes in series, this way the wheel will likely block, but with less tendency to slide sideways.&#xA;Another is moving your mass center towards back while braking - not cool, but it helps, actually.&#xA;And again - fix the brakes, repairing them is not a hard job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T12:00:40.560" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-12T15:05:51.693" Score="15" ViewCount="9477" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of my cycling fellows always told me that it's much more difficult to fully stop a road bike, compared to a mountain bike, because &quot;road brakes just don't work so well&quot; (and perhaps because of skinnier tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started to ride bikes with road wheels (700x23) and dual-caliper road brakes, quite a few years ago, I noticed my brand new Tiagra brakes were lame compared to even MTB cantilevers, and I ended up replacing the pads by v-brake ones (glad I did).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have also noticing the relative danger of &quot;cascading braking&quot; in a tight pack, which can cause severe rear-collisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: are road brakes designed to have less braking power than MTB ones, in order to avoid peloton accidents or whatever? Or is it incidental? Or yet, actually only the lower-end ones don't brake so well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T15:20:58.100" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:32:04.083" Title="Are road brakes designed not to brake too much?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-12T15:35:55.563" Score="1" ViewCount="583" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone here know anything about this old Fondriest bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MdWO6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fJUH4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zxB6x.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yCCR2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oAWvr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15729" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T19:23:19.753" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T01:16:26.557" Title="Who has information on this Fondriest Bike we found? Any good?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27115" CreationDate="2014-12-12T16:29:14.257" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure &quot;designed&quot; is the correct word, evolved comes much closer. Current dual caliper brakes actually stop a lot better than previous single caliper sidepulls. There has always been a compromise between weight and braking power. The designers have focused on how light they can make a brake that stops &quot;enough&quot;. I don't think there has been any effort to deliberately reduce the performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older centerpull brakes such as the MAFAC Racer actually compare quite well to current dual calipers, but they are much heavier and more complex to install. Designers switched&#xA;to sidepulls to save weight, but then compromised braking performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that you can only do so much with a rim brake without risking locking up the wheel. You get the most effective braking by stopping just short of the point of locking up the wheel. ( This is called modulation). Given the nature of rim brakes it's very difficult to increase the braking force while still maintaining sufficient modulation. This is the advantage that disk brakes common to MTB provide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T16:29:14.257" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27108" CreationDate="2014-12-12T17:47:50.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone who uses their rear brake far more than their front, I feel qualified to answer this.  My normal riding style (for better or worse) is rear brake heavy on my winter bikes.  I have a tendency to allow my front wheel to track and lock/drag/skid my rear wheel when cornering on snow.  I am very comfortable with my rear wheel sliding and to some extent, riding sideways.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has a section on when &lt;a href=&quot;http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:-YC7ysp7xVQJ:sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html%20&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ct=clnk&amp;amp;gl=us&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rear braking is appropriate&lt;/a&gt;.  Basically, slippery surfaces (8 months of the year here in the beautiful sub arctic desert that is Fairbanks, Alaska), front flats, during bumpy sections, and front brake failure.  That being said rear wheel braking is really only effective (in my opinion) if you are going to take advantage of breaking the tire loose.  And if you aren't comfortable with that, it's probably not for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T19:19:28.920" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T19:19:28.920" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8465" CreationDate="2014-12-12T19:34:16.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;..Here in France we have the same problem...impossible to find french pedals with old standard M14/125...IMPOSSIBLE.&#xA;But it is possible to find in Spain, new french pedals M14/125 around 10 euros...certainly from China. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vicma.es/epages/Vicma.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Vicma/Products/W10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vicma.es/epages/Vicma.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Vicma/Products/W10&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Try Ebay too.&#xA;Write &quot; PEDALES 14X125&quot; or  &quot;PEDAL M14/125&quot; on Google&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15730" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T19:34:16.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26000" CreationDate="2014-12-12T21:18:32.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something else to consider is that many bike shops will offer a seat trial program.  You can pay a fee to use multiple seats and find the one that is right for you.  The initial fee you paid will be applied to the purchase price of the saddle that you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T21:18:32.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-12T21:55:35.653" Score="3" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0073TQIOS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a foldable bike basket which attaches to my back rack&lt;/a&gt; as a gift, which I am really excited about - it will make my commute a lot easier. However, I am not sure which side of the bike to attach it to. It seems like putting it on the right side makes sense but when I add groceries or other things to carry it will put the balance out of whack, since the gearing is also on that side. I suppose this is going to happen either way with a single bike basket. Having two would allow me to keep weight and balance even. But with this in mind, should I specifically place the basket on the left side to keep weight more even?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11331" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T07:42:46.317" Title="Which is the safest side to place a foldable rack-attaching bike basket?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;basket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27121" CreationDate="2014-12-13T00:17:17.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both sides will be essentially equally safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in weight between the sides is quite small. Looking on &lt;a href=&quot;http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings/components.php?type=cassettes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Weight Weenies&lt;/a&gt; a cassette is about 300 grams, a crankset is lets say 800 grams, a chain is another 250 grams, and lets say a freehub is an 400 grams. This means the right side has about 2 kg more stuff on it than the left for the drivetrain stuff (which is quite a small weight relative to the total weight of the bike and rider). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't going to make a difference either way you put the basket on the bike (since the unbalancing weight will be enough to unbalance the bike on either side). If you are loading to the point that the bike is going to be unbalanced with the basket, get two baskets and fill them up equally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I'd probably put the basket on the side opposite you normally get on the bike in case my foot hits it while getting on. But this is purely personal preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T00:17:17.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27108" CreationDate="2014-12-13T07:21:03.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quickly move your weight back first and then low. The momentum and force put in this movement should exactly match the force you put on the lever. If you do it well enough then the rear wheel will not skid and you'll have achieved maximum stopping power with the rear only. I do this often when I'm bedding new brake pads on the rear brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p.s fix your front brake&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T07:21:03.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27121" CreationDate="2014-12-13T19:32:40.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm speaking from personal experience here.  Looking at the bicycle from the back.  The drive train is on the right side, and when you use the kickstand it leans to the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I commute to work, I tend to put my messenger bag with rear rack attachments on the left side.  Mostly because the bike is already leaning that way.  Once, when I was getting ready to leave work. I placed the bag on the right, and proceed to begin to tie my pants so they wouldn't get caught in the chain.  The whole bike, bag and all, fell right on top of me.  The incline of that particular part of the parking lot and the weight of the bag were enough to throw the whole bike of balance and rendered the kickstand useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, I've always put my bag on the left side.  The idea of my bike falling on the right side and bending or breaking a derailleur just freaks me out since I've yet to learn how to fix them or adjust them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4691" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T19:32:40.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27127" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27129" CreationDate="2014-12-13T23:37:55.463" Score="1" ViewCount="2932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently purchased a 1986 Schwinn Passage. Everything works great, but I'd like to upgrade to STI shifters and the Cassette. I've found a great deal on a groupset, Shimano 105 5800 11 Speed. My current cassette has worn down from the previous owner and one of the teeth on the smallest gear is worn down. I've been looking at Sheldon Brown's articles and I'm unable to figure out what I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know the best way to go about upgrading my current bike, or if it would be better to purchase a new one instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15736" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T01:58:40.930" Title="7 to 11 cassette upgrade or new bike" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;upgrade-or-new-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27130" CreationDate="2014-12-13T23:40:02.610" Score="4" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of Continental Touring tires with the white reflective stripe on the sidewalls, and they get pretty dirty with road and brake grime.  Normally I would clean with car soap and water but sometimes it doesn't get all the dirt off/make them look new.  It is also winter right now so it is harder to soap and water wash in the garage.  I did use a washcloth and clear water from bucket. It helped a lot but still a long ways off.  Is there a way that I can make the stripe clean and bright white again?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE:  The reflective strip on these tires are a tape that is added to the tire.  I have another bike with different brand tires where they might be painted on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T19:08:27.227" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T19:08:27.227" Title="How to clean and brighten reflective wall tires" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27127" CreationDate="2014-12-14T00:30:33.750" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 11 speed cassette would mean a new hub (probably a new wheel realistically) and likely a new derailleur to match the cable pull of the STI shifters plus the labor (this includes installation of the new cable stops, new cables, re-wrapping the bar after putting on the new brifters, etc.). You will also need to spread the frame to get a modern hub in there, which we can count under labor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep the bike: You're better off putting on a new 7 speed cassette or freewheel depending on what you have (I'd guess its actually a hub that takes a freewheel) and either living with the current shifters (downtube shifters are lovely and incredibly reliable when you get used to them), going bar-end shifters, going &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gevenalle.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Retroshift&lt;/a&gt; or putting a Shimano derailleur and using the 7 speed Shimano Tourney ST-A070 (there is a double &amp;amp; triple version) or compatible Microshift shifters (SB-R472 for doubles/SB-473 for triples). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get a new bike: The price of STI shifters and the fact that 7 or 8 speeds is more than enough makes a new bike (or a used bike with STI shifters) a good option unless you're particularly attached to this frame (and everything else is in decent condition or good enough condition that you're willing to bring it to acceptable for you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-12-14T01:58:40.930" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T01:58:40.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27128" CreationDate="2014-12-14T02:03:08.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hit the tires with a bush and some concentrated soap.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the dark shine a light on them and you would be surprised how much they shine even if they look dirty.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once you scuff em up bad then just time for new tires.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T02:03:08.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-14T02:19:06.803" Score="1" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started using a stages power meter and it works as expected but with one major flaw so far.  When I just did some sprint intervals on the trainer as soon as the cadence went above 150 rpm the cadence read 0 for one refresh,  the power froze for 2 or 3 refresh cycles and then also read 0 until i finished the interval.  Has anyone else had this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15737" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T02:19:06.803" Title="Has anyone else had problems with a Stages power meter at high cadence?" Tags="&lt;power&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27115" CreationDate="2014-12-14T03:58:25.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to remember speeds are higher for road bikes, and kinetic energy is a function of speed squared. Riding at 15 mph compared to 10 means the brakes have to get rid of more than twice as much energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We could get technical and start talking about different wheel diameters and tire weights and all that, but the point is, you have to compare apples to apples. Stopping from the same speed on the same surface, different bike types will have similar braking distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15738" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T03:58:25.357" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27095" CreationDate="2014-12-14T11:56:41.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thou it almost unnoticeable, it exists. It mean, the wheel will last for some (decades) thousands of kilometers until it get very bad. Than you will need a new wheel. If it worth it, take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T11:56:41.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27135" CreationDate="2014-12-14T17:16:50.277" Score="5" ViewCount="1476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an out of shape 60 year old and have just purchased a bike for the first time in almost 30 years. It's a Giant Seek 3 hybrid and my intention is to commute to work on it at least 3 times per week.  It's about 7 miles one way and the route is flat,  paved streets, some of which have bike lanes.  I live on a hill so the start won't be a problem.  But, coming home will be about a 3/4 mile pull uphill with only one flat stretch of ~150 yards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone offer me any help/tips on what I might need to get started safely?  Should I work up to the commute or &quot;just do it&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15734" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T06:33:30.800" Title="First time commuter needs advice" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27134" CreationDate="2014-12-14T17:42:20.367" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with safety.  Wear a good helmet and get some good lights.  Leave a spare charger at work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice the commute on a Saturday.  Ride in get lunch and ride back.  If you are mobile on Sunday then you are good on Monday.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can leave a car at work and lock your bike safely then you can split some days.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Monday you drive in with the bike and ride the bike home.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tuesday you ride in and drive home.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wednesday you drive in and ride home.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thursday you ride in and drive home.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you drive in Friday problem you don't have the car for the weekend.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So haul your bike home on Thursday.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On Friday you ride or bike both ways.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This lets you build up. &#xA;In a few months you should be riding both ways. &#xA;If you are totally out of shape then it take a couple months.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 7 miles each way you are kind of in a dead zone. &#xA;I am in my 50s but I ride a lot and for me 7 miles is 30 minute sprint and I recover in 10 minutes.&#xA;It is perfect as it does not take a lot of time but is a legitimate workout.&#xA;Out of shape it is an hour each way and you might not recover by the time you ride home. &#xA;Even for a strong rider more than 15 miles each way starts to become a time management issue. &#xA;But I would rather be on a bike an hour than in car an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T01:50:01.763" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T01:50:01.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27134" CreationDate="2014-12-14T21:18:19.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with other great suggestions by @Blam for the actual commuting, you might want to start by doing some &quot;warm up&quot; rides before committing to commuting.  You can choose a quite traffic time, nice weather (not too hot, not too cold) and not be under time pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of out and back, work out a loop with bail out points to get you home early if its too far and too uncomfortable. I would aim for a loop distance of around 5km for a start (If its too easy you can do it twice), with a bail out point half way. The real difficulty here is what &quot;out of shape 60&quot; for one person is an impressive super human machine for another. (I know people look at me funny when say I am unfit, and only managed 5 minute/km running speed over a 10km run)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the hill, use a low gear and keep the legs spinning (this is good advise on the flat, slow cadence which is bad for efficiency and knees.). If needed, get off and push the bike up the hill, don't be a hero. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only other advise is build up slowly - if you are sore from the previous ride, do not do the commute - although a short gentle ride in a low gear will help and is good, the same distance that made you sore will make things worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T21:18:19.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-14T22:34:33.743" Score="5" ViewCount="2477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rent bikes in remote beach locations. What lubrication will reduce rust and sand accumulation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15739" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T09:03:28.857" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T18:26:26.510" Title="What type chain lube should you use in a sand and salt water enviroment?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27134" CreationDate="2014-12-15T01:01:36.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practice an emergency stop: use the front brake, but stick your bum out the back and lower your body, so as not to go over the handle bars, and the back wheel may fish-tail. Assuming you know how to drive, you know that your &quot;stopping distance&quot; determines how much safety space you need to allow ... so you need to know what your stopping distance is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dress for the occasion: including helmet and cycling gloves for safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your gears: a hill should be no more difficult than the flat, it should just take longer (more slowly in a lower gear). There's an amount of effort (power or energy per second) which you're able to expend sustainably, so use your gears to keep your energy output constant/sustainable/optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to keep better than 60 rpm: if your pedalling cadence is less than one per second you're probably in too high a gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid 'beginner' mistakes in traffic: for example read something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www1.toronto.ca/wps/portal/contentonly?vgnextoid=ce06970aa08c1410VgnVCM10000071d60f89RCRD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Car Bike Collisions --&#xA;Understanding Types of Collisions&lt;/a&gt; and/or take a bicycle safety course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can keep it up for a year, I predict that you could be an in-shape 61-year-old. So do it sustainably: stay safe! It'll get easier (become routine) with practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice accessories for commuting include lights and a bell; mud-guards (in rain); a pannier (instead of a backback); a bike lock (IMO a U-lock); and puncture-resistant (but never knobbly) tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope the bike is properly adjusted for you (e.g. the right seat height etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did my first commute as a trial-run on a Sunday, to check the route etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T01:01:36.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27134" CreationDate="2014-12-15T04:01:59.907" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you say you are out of shape, I recommend &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; attempting to ride there and back on the same day until you have built up to it. You have a lot of muscles and organs that need to develop to handle this new activity, so build up slowly. If you rush it you could injure yourself, and despite what some people say, at our age injuries heal more slowly. So build up slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing you'll notice the day after your first ride is a sore bottom. There are muscles there that need to adjust - so give them a couple of days rest then ride again. It's important to take a break so that the muscles can recover, but it's equally important to ride again in two or three days so that they get the message to keep developing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I recommend a supported first ride to work on a weekend. By supported I mean that someone will bring you and the bike home. Seven miles (~11 km) is a solid first ride for someone who is unfit and unused to riding. If you find you are struggling, stop and call in the ride home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will now know if you can ride one way. If you can't yet, recover for a couple of days and ride the same distance again. It will probably seem harder, but keep riding every few days. If possible, drive or take a train part way to work and ride the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you can ride all the way, ride to work one day and leave the bike there. Ride home two or three days later. When you are comfortable with both rides, step up to three rides per week: Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Leave the bike at work over the week end. When that's working OK, you have a choice - start riding there and back on the same day, or ride four times a week. If you feel ready, ride there and back on a Friday, so you have the weekend to recover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now some theory, of sorts. Generally, we find that increasing the total training load by 10% in one week is manageable. If you step up more than that, you can expect to feel weary. After stepping up the distance you ride per week, wait until you feel on top of it before stepping up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some common sense. Don't expect too much of yourself. Take it steady. It is actually &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a race. If you need a break then take it. If it's crap weather (too hot, too cold, too wet, too windy), skip the ride that day. As you get experience you'll cope with a wider variety of conditions, but at the start you don't need to be a hero. But keep at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And enjoy. Everyone here does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T04:01:59.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27137" CreationDate="2014-12-15T06:06:07.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not much you can do against the evil trifecta of salt, water, and sand. You can use a teflon, graphite, or moly based dry lube but inevitably sand particles are going to gouge the metal and salt+water is going to start corrosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with chain wear due to sand is that the chains themselves can look good (i.e., not rusty on the outside), but will in fact be considerably worn internally. This can lead to considerable chainring and sprocket wear before you catch it. As other commentators note, one option if you want to keep your current bikes is to buy a chain tool and chain in bulk, and  replace the chains on a regular basis.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if you haven't bucked the trend of every other rental place and decided to get the absolute cheapest bikes possible, then you might want to look into belt-drive bicycles. You'll solve at least the problem of chain rusting and sprocket damage from the sand and salt. Your customers will also be impressed with belt-drives as they are silky smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't solve the problem of salt+water+sand getting in other places (bottom bracket; headset) but the chain is the one part that customers will really notice poor maintenance on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, whether buying a nicer bike is worth it depends on your business model: how much you expect to spend on maintenance and how long you amortize each bicycle given also abuse and theft levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-12-18T18:26:26.510" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T18:26:26.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27144" CreationDate="2014-12-15T09:49:00.487" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just back from hospital!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was having fun in a skatepark with my trials bike, and something quite unfortunate happened. Basically, my thumb flexed the wrong way around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That won't stop me though, and I plan to go back as soon as the doctor allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &lt;strong&gt;I wish I could protect my fingers&lt;/strong&gt;, at least from flexing the wrong way around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any glove or bandage that could help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T21:41:15.127" Title="Protective Gloves for bmx / trials" Tags="&lt;accidents&gt;&lt;protection&gt;&lt;gloves&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27146" CreationDate="2014-12-15T14:09:05.740" Score="3" ViewCount="999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering installing an Ultegra Di2 groupset on a small road bike.  The space below the water bottle bosses is too little to install the regular road Di2 battery, but the XTR SM-BTC1 Di2 battery holder looks like a good option: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/components1/mountain/xtr-m9000/sm-btc1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/components1/mountain/xtr-m9000/sm-btc1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, can the XTR Di2 battery actually be used with Di2 road shifters like Ultegra 6770 or 6870?  Or is there some other battery offering similar mounting options for road bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason for optimism is that the XTR battery page says &quot;Six E-Tube wiring ports with cable organizer,&quot; which sounds perfect since the bike in question has no space for an internal wiring junction down near the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The page also says it holds the SM-BTR2 battery, which seems to be exactly the Ultegra/Dura-Ace internal battery stick that goes in a seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastEditorUserId="1464" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T14:23:10.350" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T21:27:36.957" Title="Is the XTR Di2 battery compatible with Ultegra Di2?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;&lt;shimano-di2&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27141" CreationDate="2014-12-15T14:15:49.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a kind of injury that is common in skiing. What happens is the ski pole handle gets trapped under the thumb when falling, causing the thumb to bend the wrong way. You can find supports &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.physioroom.com/product/PhysioRoom.com_Thumb_Stabiliser_Support_Splint/3080/39114.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;such as this one&lt;/a&gt;. I can't speak for that one specifically, but if you look up &quot;skier's thumb&quot; on the internet you should be able to find lots of information on the injury and ways to prevent it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, something like a rollerblade wrist guard might do the job, but I'm not sure how well you could grip the handlebars with something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T14:15:49.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24850" CreationDate="2014-12-15T14:46:01.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar issue last year. The threads on the frame to take the bottom bracket were too worn to hold the bottom bracket in place. A bike mechanic should be able to confirm this for you (for no fee). After some research I found two solutions, one of which is considerably cheaper than the other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: bike frame specialists / frame refurbishers can re cast the frame thread with a tough resin, and then rethread the resin, allowing a bottom bracket to sit securely. This is the expensive option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2:You can buy bottom brackets that tighten onto them selves to stay in place. This is a sample: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kingstreetcyclery.com.au/self-tightening-bottom-bracket-u118.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kingstreetcyclery.com.au/self-tightening-bottom-bracket-u118.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;However! do your research before you buy; there are different spindle lengths and other options. I replaced mine with one from ebay for about £40. After retightening a few times initially, I have had no problems since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15744" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T14:46:01.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27143" CreationDate="2014-12-15T14:53:45.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/news/article/shimano-xtr-di2-electronic-shifting-comes-to-mountain-bikes-41184/&quot;&gt;BikeRadar&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;The battery unit as well as the wiring for XTR Di2 are identical components to the ones used in Shimano's electronic road groups. The battery can be mounted on a bottle cage, in a seat tube, frame and can even be contained within the steerer unit of certain forks (via the use of PRO's new Tharsis components).&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T14:53:45.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20254" CreationDate="2014-12-15T15:19:18.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using the &quot;Muck Boot Company Chore Hi Black&quot; along with waterproof trousers. The Muck Boot is neoprene upper and rubber lower, so it is comfortable when pedaling (i.e., it doesn't hit your shin like cheap rain boots) and I get to work dry. The boot never needs to 'dry' off as it is truly waterproof, and with an 8 mile commute I personally don't have any issues with sweating either. The muck boots are nearly indestructible and show no signs of wear yet. It's the only good solution for commuting in the UK when it rains nearly every day. Goretex shoes get wet and take forever to dry and if you wear waterproof socks the socks still end up completely wet and impossible to dry quickly plus your foot sweats a lot when cycling; most of the cover style gaiters or pull-overs end up being too much hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15745" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T21:37:26.893" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T21:37:26.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T16:20:13.493" Score="1" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used my googlefu now but I don't come up with any good research articles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that a lot of elite riders train mostly on low intensity, is this the case and why?&#xA;To increase fet oxidtion, and endurance muscle fibers and decrease the risk of injury? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article says that it is not good (in isolation) in higher levels:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_slow_distance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long_slow_distance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also read something about 85/15 rule of race pace (85% of youre training should be lower then race speed and 15 % of the time at faster speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14644" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T21:25:21.477" Title="Optimal Intensity training ratios" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27148" CreationDate="2014-12-15T17:28:25.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long slow distance is great for building up a strong aerobic base (circulatory and respiratory systems), if you have the time. However, unless you choose good rides it can be boring and few people would consider doing it on an indoor trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who don't have that time, there's a century training plan in Chris Carmichael's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Time-Crunched-Cyclist-2nd-Ed-Powerful/dp/193403083X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Time-Crunched Cyclist&lt;/a&gt; and most people would consider a century long-distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're not so concerned about getting a great time, then the amazingly-simple way to train for longer rides is to go out and ride, each time slightly increasing the distance. A bit more detail on &lt;a href=&quot;https://yacf.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=85238.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;long-distance riding is given on YACF&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T17:28:25.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27108" CreationDate="2014-12-15T18:00:36.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing you need to recognize is that &lt;strong&gt;you literally have &lt;em&gt;less than half&lt;/em&gt; of your original stopping power&lt;/strong&gt;. Riding without a front brake puts excess strain on your rear brake. You are very dependant on your front brake for the majority of your stopping power, especially when trying to stop quickly, as momentum will load your front wheel while decelerating and lift weight off of your rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules for stopping effectively with only a rear rim/disc brake:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride slower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give yourself more time to stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your weight as far back on the bike as you can to try and weight your rear tire in emergencies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding with a rear brake only is a good way to wear out brake pads, rotors, and tires. The sooner you fix your front brake, the less likely you will be to have to replace other parts due to excess wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only bikes that have rear braking only, are kids bikes and coasters/cruisers, which sometimes have hub brakes. These are designed to take the full force of stopping the bike, but they work better than rim brakes on the rear because when you brake with your pedals you're forced to use proper body mechanics and leverage on the back pedal which puts your weight &lt;em&gt;behind&lt;/em&gt; the bottom bracket, ergo more effectively weighting the back wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T18:00:36.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T19:42:14.283" Score="1" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you an over-60 unicyclist with insights you would like to share, about anything from getting started to getting off? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15748" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T19:56:50.540" Title="Unicycling for over 60s" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;skills&gt;&lt;unicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-12-15T20:54:18.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27151" CreationDate="2014-12-15T19:46:11.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of insights about getting started, that might be helpful. &#xA;1.  Use walking sticks for a few weeks or months - you will know when to throw them away.&#xA;2.  Get good body armour - I particularly recommend Kris Holme gloves.  You will also need knee and elbow pads, and a good helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15748" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T19:46:11.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27151" CreationDate="2014-12-15T19:56:50.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you need inspiration to get started.  Check out this Kris Home video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/MtJZVHkhm-M?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15748" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T19:56:50.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27134" CreationDate="2014-12-15T20:49:48.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been commuting to work every day for the last 6 years. In your case I would go with these tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equipment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a helmet.  Despite you can find several discussions about what is the real effectiveness of a helmet, it's never bad to wear one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy lights, a white light for the front and red to put back. I would suggest at least two red lights, one to put in your bike's frame and one to attach to your helmet (or maybe your backpack or jacket).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy gloves. This is not a must, but they will improve your comfort and also they will help when you fall. This will be is especially important if the weather is cold, in that case riding without gloves might be pretty unpleasant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a windbreaker jacket, it will really help when it's cold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't go out with a ton of clothes because you are going to boil in there. It is best to go out with a shirt and a windbreaker jacket, and feel a little cold for 2-3 minutes until you warm up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can, buy a rack or some panniers. This is just optional, but you will really feel more comfortable if you ride carrying your things in a rack than in a backpack on your back. I would suggest you to ride the whole first week with just a backpack and then check if you want a rack or some panniers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preparation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be prepared to fall, at least mentally prepared. There's 2 types of city cyclists, those who have fallen and those who are about to fall. There's no way for you to escape of this, you are doing it at some point, it doesn't mean it has to be a bad fall, but you are going to do it for sure (don't be scared about it, just be cautious).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a test ride the weekend before your first commute. Plan ahead your route and then test it, go and ride all the way to your destination to check how long does it take you, how do you feel after the ride and also to check possible troubles on the way (detours, works on the road, etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is PRETTY IMPORTANT to try to use the same route always!! This improves your safety since after a while you will be able to spot the problematic parts of the road, where is common to find people crossing, where there are dogs that might chase you, which traffic lights are short, etc. Don't under estimate this, I think it is one of the most useful tips about city commuting using a bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check tire's pressure. The softer they are, the harder the ride is going to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your brakes, no need to explain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On the street&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At red lights try to go all the way to the first car and stop a little after the car's nose or if you want just stop in front of it (if that is legal in your case). The point of this is to try to be visible for cars before they start running again, so they know you are there. You will be &quot;safe&quot; as long as you are visible for cars, don't ever forget that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you find big cracks on the pavement (wide enough to be like the width of your tire), hoses, big sticks or anything like that, try to pass them going across and never along. Going along will make your tire go over the hose/stick/etc, like riding over them, which is a fall for sure. With cracks is kind of the same idea, if you tire falls into the crack you might fall when you try to get out of the crack by going to the side of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't feel confident enough with the traffic at some point just stop. Stop (not in the middle of the road of course), wait a little until you feel confident again and then start riding, don't over stress your nerves since we usually take bad decisions when that happens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a dog chase you don't freak out, all you have to do is stop. Dogs usually lose their interest in you when you are stopped (I suppose they like just the chase). Also if you are going through a place you know there might be dogs, then go slow and dogs aren't going to bother in chasing you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I would say &quot;just go and do it&quot;. It doesn't matter if you can't do the whole hill in your first try, just do what you can and walk the rest. Maybe just half of a quarter is ok, then after a week you'll be adapted to your bike and you might be doing half of the hill and next week 3/4, and before you know it the thing is going to be just part of the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastEditorUserId="6652" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T13:42:52.927" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T13:42:52.927" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7960" CreationDate="2014-12-15T21:32:55.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best ones by far: Shimano TL-CN40, TL-CN41 or TL-CN42. Unique amongst chain tools in that they are as accurate as the ruler method, with the ease and quickness of the slot in tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are the only &quot;tool&quot; to do this, i.e. they measure pin wear only, roller wear (which does not matter) is eliminated. Not cheap though, but they are the best and certainly will be worth it in money saved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13954" LastEditorUserId="13954" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T22:56:24.523" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T22:56:24.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27141" CreationDate="2014-12-15T21:41:15.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of motocross/motorcycle gloves have support built into the fingers to prevent excess motion in the wrong direction (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/35882/i/knox-biomech-hand-armor-gloves&amp;amp;colorid=1&amp;amp;sizeid=110?siteID=CSE_GBase_321818&amp;amp;WT.mc_ID=80003&amp;amp;P_ID=321818&amp;amp;adpos=1o4&amp;amp;creative=51533288573&amp;amp;device=c&amp;amp;matchtype=&amp;amp;network=g&amp;amp;gclid=CLql4Y2BycICFQmqaQodmQgAPQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;). There are a few DH mountain biking gloves that have &quot;armor&quot; on the fingers that restrict movement a bit. Unfortunately, with braking and tricks and steering, it's important to have a good range of motion in the hand, fingers, and wrist, so you might be doing more harm than good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T21:41:15.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27101" CreationDate="2014-12-15T23:54:46.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Originally I had a wind trainer which was very loud and the resistance felt weird. You could pedal really quickly and it would get really easier. I've had a Kurt Kinetic Road Machine for a couple of years and have road it about 40 times, putting about 1000km on it. It is quite, still looks brand new and doesn't get easier the longer I pedal which is a problem with some lower end trainers. This is because the fluid doesn't warm up and become less viscous. I would strongly recommend it. Also the resistance feels similar to riding on the road. Another benefit of a Kurt Kinetic is that you can translate your speed into watts. I bought a power meter and have compared the numbers and they are about 5% difference, so pretty close. Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3057" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T23:54:46.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25662" CreationDate="2014-12-16T03:30:25.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ended up taking my bike to Dickie at Waverley Cycles. I had a couple of problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain was too long (I hadn't removed enough links)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cable adjuster on the derailleur had stripped threads so had movement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He shortened the chain, screwed the adjuster further in and used the adjusters on the cable stops near the front of the bike to tune it and everything is now silky smooth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T03:30:25.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27115" CreationDate="2014-12-16T07:24:14.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your experience differs from mine. I have drop bar bikes with both cantilevers and V-brakes (which are used to clear large tires) and dual pivot side pulls (which manufacturers prefer to use when tire clearance is not a problem, even though there is no particular weight advantage) Using the same shape of brake levers for both, it's the dual pivot brakes that feel the best in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a question: Are you braking from the hoods, or the drops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;aero&quot; lever shape installed on road bikes is a compromise because riders want to hold the bars and access the brakes from different positions. Its fulcrum is on top, and riding &quot;on the hoods&quot; your fingers grip the lever 1-2 inches from the fulcrum, and pull obliquely across the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the lever extends down 4 inches, you can get twice as much leverage and finer control by pulling the end of the levers from the drops as you can by pulling from the hoods. I find one or two fingers on the front lever suffices for almost all braking, but only if I am in the drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15754" LastEditorUserId="15754" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T08:02:52.700" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T08:02:52.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27121" CreationDate="2014-12-16T07:42:46.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most practical mechanical effect I can think of is that placing a bag on the right side may protect the rear derailleur in the event of a tip-over. On the other hand, it can sometimes be tricky to install bags on the right because they can interfere with the loop of derailleur cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other mechanical consideration that hasn't been mentioned is that the rear wheel is built asymetrically, with spokes on the left angled out further than spokes on the right. This may make it slightly safer to have the extra load on the right (because the sideways force from bumps will tend to tension the left side spokes rather than de-tension them.) I think that you will have to carry enough load for the bicycle to become unpleasantly unbalanced before this consideration would have any real effect though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more practical consideration is riding in traffic. A large pannier sticking out to the left (in a country that drives on the right) is a great place for reflectors, and may encourage passing cars to give more room. I usually place panniers on the left for that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15754" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T07:42:46.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27103" CreationDate="2014-12-16T14:13:59.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe.  It depends on differences beyond the hitch system for the trailer.  Best bet is to find the model you want to upgrade to and take measurements and compare.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically you will find that the trailer tongue is made of plain tubing (be it square or round).  I doubt that this will change much between model lines and years.  What will change is probably the various bends in it to give the tire some clearance.  The important part is that it is the same size tube on the inside (or really close).  The hitch parts are then inserted into the tube and secured with a nut and bolt.  If the inner diameter is good and the securing bolt is in the right place, make the swap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done such swaps on both of my trailers.  My kid trailer is a Pacific Voyager 2 and the other is a generic cargo trailer (happens to be a Asom Wonderer, but other sell it as well).  Both trailers had a spring that came out of the tongue into the quick release assembly which then attached to the component that is mounted on the bike.  It ends up that both trailers have tubing that is the right size for the Burley systems so it was a quick swap.  All I did was undo the bolt, slide out the spring, then add the flex connector and bolt.  Here is a picture of the setup from my cargo trailer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GHzsB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Asom Wonderer cargo trailer using Burley flexconnector&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T14:13:59.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26020" CreationDate="2014-12-16T15:12:54.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to my favorite cycle mechanic and he dropped kerosene on the derailleur and then brushed the dirt off easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14633" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T15:12:54.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27164" CreationDate="2014-12-16T15:17:21.013" Score="5" ViewCount="12155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went to a bike mechanic and he dropped some kerosene on the cog and chain for lubing them. He said that it keeps the dirt off and is quite volatile so will evaporate after sometime leaving some part behind which acts as a good lube. He said that he knows this by experience. Is it good to use kerosene as lubricant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14633" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T19:09:36.813" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T12:28:59.830" Title="Can I use Kerosene for lubing the cogs and the chain" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27163" CreationDate="2014-12-16T15:30:10.420" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Kerosene won't leave behind enough of a layer to protect the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be useful as a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14823/what-cleaner-and-oil-should-i-use-on-my-bike-chain&quot;&gt;solvent to clean the chain&lt;/a&gt; before applying a proper lubricant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T15:30:10.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27163" CreationDate="2014-12-16T15:30:29.630" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kerosene is good as a cleaner for your chain, but never as a lubricant. In fact, kerosene will clean all the lubricant remaining, increasing friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15758" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T15:30:29.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27163" CreationDate="2014-12-16T15:31:38.393" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kerosene is technically a paraffin which comes from the greek word wax. &#xA;Kerosene is used as a fuel and a solvent. &#xA;A waxy solid extracted from petroleum is called paraffin wax. &#xA;Pouring a liquid kerosene on a chain is not going to leave much if any waxy lubricant behind.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kerosene is not a good choice as a solvent as it is flammable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wax&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wax&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T20:55:45.873" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T20:55:45.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25595" CreationDate="2014-12-16T17:50:05.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The replacement elastomers I ordered from suspensionforkparts.net arrived and I replaced them this past weekend. Easy job, and the front suspension works like new! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EbvC0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14397" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T17:50:05.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27163" CreationDate="2014-12-16T20:21:29.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would only be effective if the chain was wet lubed, and clean. As a solvent Kerosene thin and redistributed the lubricant already on the chain. It will therefore have an effect at lubricating the chain as the pressure points will get lube migrating to them, provided small enough amounts were use that the lubricant was not washed off the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using kero this way would be better than not lubing the chain, however it would be better to use a lube and do it properly. Where I might use it is a chain that has been lubed then stored for a while to get things moving again - but in all cases it has no benefit over using a proper lube as a lubricant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T20:21:29.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-16T21:29:47.770" Score="13" ViewCount="1523" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will be my first season racing collegiate this spring and I recently crashed on a group ride going about 22 mph around a corner and slammed my face into the ground. Crash was pretty bad and had road rash across my body and tons of stitches in my face. Before the crash, I had gotten really good at cornering at high speeds and was comfortable in doing so, however, now, I can't even take an easy corner at any speed without being way too wide and being fearful of falling. Any tips on overcoming my fear so I can get back into the crit-racing mindset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15762" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T10:44:18.597" Title="Coping with crash fear?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4682" CreationDate="2014-12-16T23:09:06.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.technologystudent.com/enerflsh/foot1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.technologystudent.com/enerflsh/foot1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;found this.  comparison is 2 versus 1440 3 mile commute car versus bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15764" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T23:09:06.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27180" CreationDate="2014-12-16T23:51:16.787" Score="5" ViewCount="3580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I weigh very low about 56 kilograms and height is 5 feet 6 inches.I use a hybrid for fun and commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While riding i use the hishest gear on my bike always i.e 48 tooth front and 11 tooth back.&#xA;I usually travel at the speed of 26km/h - 30 km/h (16.15 to 18.64 mile per hour) on flat  with very little opposite side wind but when i  push harder i go about 40 km/h (24.85 miles per hour) on flat with very little opposite side wind while only for short bursts of 1 minute or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if increasing my weight to say +10 kilograms would help me gain speed since its the weight of the body which is used to push the pedals and you can push only so much as your weight considering newtons thrird law of motion, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every action has equal and opposite reaction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e your push on pedals pushs your body upwards so  the max amount of force or push that can be applied on the pedals is equivalent to your body weight unless your shoulders are tied to the frame of the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="2043" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T00:03:35.710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T16:21:37.227" Title="How does weight and strength of a person effects the riding of bicycle at higher speeds?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27172" CreationDate="2014-12-17T00:29:30.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you see any fat profession bicycle riders? Do fat riders pass you more than skinny riders? Rather than try and redefine the art maybe go with established best practices. Cadence of 80+ should keep you on the seat on anything other than a hill or sprint.  10 more lbs is not going to make you sprint or climb better.  48/11 at 30 kph is a cadence of 60.  Don't eat donuts - pedal faster in the gear to put you in 80 - 110.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T02:12:01.257" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T02:12:01.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27169" CreationDate="2014-12-17T00:46:22.103" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people never do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In races, people push to the limit, and sometimes past it. And people make mistakes. So there will always be crashes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's part of race craft to learn to read the corners and your competitors, to know when to make sure you are ahead or inside the risky riders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this early stage of your career many of the riders you are riding against are enthusiastic learners. Some strong athletes can't cope with the risks and drop out of Crit racing or ride at the back to build condition for other kinds of race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't say anything about how the crash happened. It might sound unkind, but you don't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to fall when someone bumps into you, or falls in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep at it. Try riding at the back for a while to watch and learn. And watch other higher grade races. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T00:46:22.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27172" CreationDate="2014-12-17T01:12:41.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The premise of the question is flawed in that you relate force directly to power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;your push on pedals pushs your body upwards so the max amount of force or push that can be applied on the pedals is equivalent to your body weight &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Blam said - Your cadence is too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to engines power = torque*revs. With cycling, torque is limited by bodyweight, but we do not limit power by limiting revs, which is why we (most of us except a few fashion mistakes) spend so much money and time on those exceedingly complex, fiddly and frustrating things called gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn to rev faster - think F1 race car engine vs big block V8. Both output similar power, one does it by brute force, the other by high revs. Watch a few cycle races and see how fast they pedal, and notice how light weight most of the top riders are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T01:12:41.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27172" CreationDate="2014-12-17T01:41:23.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that weight is force (mass x gravity acceleration). If you're continuously falling and using imaginary pedal convert the force into forward motion then you can accelerate like gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you're not continuously falling, for every downward movement of your body you also push upward, which means you don't get any gain there and the force driving your bike comes from your legs (and wind).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you can gain power by gaining mass (possible), it'll just weigh you down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T01:41:23.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27169" CreationDate="2014-12-17T03:29:03.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One drill that might be useful is to find a small hill with a relatively safe open view corner that you are currently braking while descending. Do repeats on descending the hill, each time braking later and later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally this will be a turn that confident riders can descend w/o braking. Almost every team/club has a test turn somewhere that is part of their drills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following a rider that you trust that is a better descender than you is also a good way to build confidence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T03:29:03.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27163" CreationDate="2014-12-17T03:46:14.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is actually very little value in lubricating the chain, all you really need is to keep it clean and rust free. Kerosene seems about as good as anything for doing that. The primary reason to lubricate a chain is to keep water out of the rollers and just generally keep the chain rust free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the things people put on chains actually shorten the life of the gears by attracting dirt and dust. This grit combines with the grease to create a grinding paste that can wear gears in a relatively short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how you take care of your bike chain is one of the great religious debates in the cycling world, everybody has a theory. For just about any grease/oil/wax out there you'll find somebody that swears by it as a bike chain lube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lube or don't lube, use the magic wonder fluid, all that really matters is that you check your chain for wear at regular intervals and replace it when it starts to show any signs of wear. Compared to all the other parts on your bike, chains are cheap, replace them often and your expensive cassettes and chainwheels will last a very long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T03:46:14.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27172" CreationDate="2014-12-17T04:46:53.967" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TLDR&lt;/strong&gt; -  Weight training is the wrong activity for improving both your sustained  speed (26-30kph) and your 1-minute speed (40kph).  Read below to understand why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three main types of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skeletal_striated_muscle&quot;&gt;skeletal muscles&lt;/a&gt;: slow twitch (type 1), fast oxidative (type 2 a) and fast glycolytic (type 2 b). Your make up of the three types determined primarily by genetics (with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skeletal_striated_muscle&quot;&gt;some interchangeability between type 2b and type 2a&lt;/a&gt;).  These muscles differ by the metabolic pathway used to power contraction, as well as contraction speed and strength and ability to perform repeated contractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slow twitch (type 1) are weak and slow but are what power sustained efforts. These muscles generate power through aerobic glycolysis (i.e., &quot;burning&quot; oxygen).  While weaker total force output these muscles have high endurance (due to the use of oxygen). If you are doing any sustained activity over 1 minute in duration you are primarily using these muscles.  If you are a professional endurance cyclist you were likely gifted by genetics with a higher proportion of type 1 fibers than the regular joe.  (Aside from doping, it really is easier for them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are sprinting (efforts under 1 minute - like your 40kph efforts) you will be primarily using type 2a.  When you are mashing the pedals hard in a maximal effort (under 10 sec) you are using type 2b fibers. Type 2a uses a mix of anaerobic and aerobic pathways while type 2b only use anaerobic pathways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What weight training actually does...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves us with the question of what will happen when we weight train and gained 10 kilos of muscles (hypertrophy). Muscle hypertrophy occurs primarily through chronic &lt;strong&gt;anaerobic&lt;/strong&gt;, high-intensity resistance activity.  This means you will be developing type 2b primarily along with some type 2a (actually changing your type 2a behave more like type 2b) and a bit of type 1 (the actual splits depends on type of resistance training).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your ability to accelerate quickly would likely improve the most. Your 40 kph (type 2a powered) could increase a bit.    Your sustained 26-30 (kph) might increase a little bit, if you kept up aerobic training as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The specificity principle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gets us to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sportsmedicine.about.com/od/glossary/g/Specificity_def.htm&quot;&gt;the specificity principle&lt;/a&gt;.  The training needs to be specific to the task.  This comes in terms of strengthening the right muscle for the action (circular pedal motion), building up connective and support tissue (strong core is important - you can't fire a cannon from a canoe! - &lt;a href=&quot;http://breakingmuscle.com/strength-conditioning/how-to-shoot-a-cannon-out-of-a-canoe&quot;&gt;although...&lt;/a&gt;) and muscle recruitment pattern (how your brain activates individual muscle fibers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cycling, the circular motion is un-natural.  As such we need to train your muscles with the activity at hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Improving sustained efforts&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To improve you 26-30 kph sustained speed you would need to stay away from the weight room as we need to train type 1 muscle fibers.   We can't make these muscles much bigger per say, but more efficient.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This means improving muscle recruitment. (ask stack exchange for pedalling exercises)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This means improving aerobic metabolism efficiency. (Long Slow Days - LSD)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This means improving the lactic acid threshold. (Aerobic threshold efforts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most when they go on endurance rides they laugh at (1), then ride somewhere between (2) and (3); doing what we commonly refer to as junk miles.  You will need to specifically train these three components individually to get the biggest improvements your sustained speed.  A coach can be highly beneficial here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Improving 1 minute efforts&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here we want to train our type 2a fibers and perhaps &quot;recuit&quot; some type 2b to be like, or function more like, like type 2a (this is a bit of a disputed topic as to the mechanism).  They gym may help a bit but something like interval training (repeated hard efforts, e.g., 2 min on 1 minute off, repeated 8 times) will do wonders.  Interval training is generally hard to do and hard to get right, a coach is recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T16:21:37.227" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T16:21:37.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27191" CreationDate="2014-12-17T08:56:26.340" Score="1" ViewCount="1691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a road bike off ebay. Which is supposedly a Cinelli from the early 90s / late 80s. How can I identify the model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T12:17:05.177" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T01:46:22.733" Title="How can I identify if my 'Cinelli' frame is real &amp; what model it is?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27137" CreationDate="2014-12-17T15:31:11.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try the &quot;soak chain in paraffin wax&quot; method. That would at least keep the water out of the rollers. Good how to page: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Lubricating-a-Bicycle-Chain-using-Paraffin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Lubricating-a-Bicycle-Chain-using-Paraffin/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's cheap and is likely as good as anything else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Salt water will pretty much destroy every part of a bicycle, washing with fresh water every day might be your best investment in keeping the bikes running as long as possible. The wax method helps there as it is very resistant to washing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck, and look for cheap bulk chain on ebay....  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T16:28:43.103" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T16:28:43.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27169" CreationDate="2014-12-17T17:28:04.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wear something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MET Parachute is similar to the the Giro switchblade, which used to be the most popular helmet on the market in Western Canada for MTB, because it was a full face helmet that weighted as much as an open face helmet. The switchblade saved my face when I smashed in into the sidewalk after slipping off the top of a highway divider on a hill. It would look a bit goofy on a road bike, but you could wear it just until you felt confident to ride open face again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7FPjB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Removable face guard:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JoSLt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T17:28:04.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27184" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-17T19:16:18.160" Score="5" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of getting a garmin edge touring but I want to use it as a map rather than a satnav. Can I just ride and it will show where I am? Or will it always want me to take a pre-determined route? Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15771" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T21:15:38.670" Title="With a garmin edge touring can I just ride or do I have to do a route?" Tags="&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27184" CreationDate="2014-12-17T19:52:05.153" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The map screen will show you your location, you aren't required to choose a route, routes are just big feature of the edge touring that Garmin focused on for that line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T19:52:05.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27169" CreationDate="2014-12-17T20:44:04.150" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems like a question of how to get you mojo back.   As eloquently put by andy256, some never get over being spooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the feeling well.  Even a near misses can spook.  I can't tell you how frightened I was years back lining back up to restart a race, after seeing a number of people I trained with being carried away on a stretchers (the course was also well known for sending people to the hospital). I can still taste that fear today. In the end I was able to focus through the fear and perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also known people have come back from breaking their neck in a crit (I remember seeing it happen right in front of me) and somehow still retained their edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, it can be done, but it can take work (like anything).  At some point you need to learn how develop a psychological switch, where when you flip the switch on you are in kill mode ready to kill or be killed. When you flip the switch off you are in normal mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Some things I found useful...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each person is different but here is what worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take some time and do some easy rides, no pressures, no club rides or pack rides. Just have fun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you start to feel confident coming back reintroduce some pack riding then harder corners.  This should hopefully work at regaining your confidence.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In off time to do positive visualizations. Visualized yourself nailing that fast double apex turn.  Focus on all the components, from the feeling of the wind to the sound of the tires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn how to become at peace with consequences (injury or even death). These are part of life whether or not you are on the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make an active decision that you want to win and are willing to risk consequences to do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you hit 5 you are probably ready to come back in full form.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you are spooked you may want to avoid crits as you you will either be pushed around and kicked out the back in no time (further deflating your confidence) or you will be a danger to yourself and others (depending on the level of competition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are going through is normal.  If you didn't have concerns, then that would be concerning!  Focus and risk are tricky subjects for many.  Some I suspect perform well because the simply don't have a full cognitive understand the risks they are taking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T20:44:04.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27184" CreationDate="2014-12-17T21:15:38.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also call up a pre-generated route and turn off the turn-by-turn directional functionality, thus just showing your location and relationship to the route. This has worked reasonably well for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T21:15:38.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27148" CreationDate="2014-12-17T21:25:21.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes to your entire second paragraph. A good reference would be Phil Maffetone's &lt;em&gt;The Big Book of Endurance Training and Racing.&lt;/em&gt; His contention is that making the aerobic system more efficient is a healthier and more sustainable way to increase speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm an ultra distance cyclist who has tried both Maffetone and Carmichael's &lt;em&gt;Time-Crunched Cyclist&lt;/em&gt;, and I've had much better luck with the former. Your experience may be much different if you're doing cyclocross or sprint races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T21:25:21.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-17T23:38:35.470" Score="2" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I notice that my fork is squeezed together when I tighten the quick release mechanism. Is it possible then to over torque the quick release and squeeze the fork too close together? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T01:38:46.393" Title="Carbon fork torque" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27189" CreationDate="2014-12-18T01:38:46.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you're standing on it, probably not, especially if its an &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;external/exposed cam style quick release&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming what you're seeing is just the legs coming in a little bit as the spacing is slightly wider than 100mm. As long as it's just a couple of mm, I woudn't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T01:38:46.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27181" CreationDate="2014-12-18T01:46:22.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming no decals or identifying markings, call Cinelli with the serial number which will be stamped into the bottom bracket shell. Otherwise, with no pics and no description, telepathy is the next best option. I don't posses that skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T01:46:22.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27115" CreationDate="2014-12-18T03:08:52.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. They are designed to brake as well as possible without being unnecessarily overkill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why the brakes are a lot less powerful than mountain bike brakes is because they don't require as much force to lock a road bike wheel. That's it. As long as you can lock the wheel, your brakes are powerful enough. You would put the best hydraulic mountain bike brakes on a road bike and it couldn't stop faster. The limiting factor is the grip of the tires. That's because road bike tires have a small contact patch, high air pressure and slick thread. That's all to improve performance moving forward, as road bikes typically don't need performance braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15774" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T03:08:52.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25667" CreationDate="2014-12-18T03:52:17.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for my very late reply. I have solved the brake issue. Basically I just needed to replace the rear brake cable as there was a lot of corrosion as I ride in the rain. Now my bike brakes like a brand new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all your feedback guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14434" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T03:52:17.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-18T16:09:54.510" Score="1" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced my broken nexus 8 with a new alfine 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i thought that they are compatible in regards to the shifter and the step sizes between the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but i notice now on the alfine that i dont hit all gears precisely. there is sometimes a slipping on the very high gears and very low gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so are step sizes on nexus and alfine gears compatible or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6482" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T16:58:31.087" Title="Gear step sizes between Shimano Nexus 8 and Alfine 8 compatible" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27194" CreationDate="2014-12-18T16:58:31.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alfine 8 and Nexus 8 can use the same shifters. I'm guessing you need to adjust the shifter by turning the barrel adjuster on the shifter (there are marks on the hub which need to be lined up in order for it to shift properly -- check the setup instructions for the hub/shifter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T16:58:31.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26006" CreationDate="2014-12-18T20:14:07.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've purchased a couple of used leather saddles. The ones that were barely used or just broken in were fine, but there was one well-used one that was the exception. Its sit bone area was visibly lower on one side than the other, enough that it was the likely cause of an SI joint dysfunction for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say if it looks relatively new and close to the original shape, you're probably fine. If it looks worn or stretched and especially if it looks uneven, it might be best to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T20:14:07.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27201" CreationDate="2014-12-19T05:24:20.023" Score="3" ViewCount="1026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to buy a folding bicycle (brand doesn't matter). Intent is commuting to work inside the city (5-6 kms one side run). Reason for folding bicycle is space constraint in my apartment. I never rode a folding bicycle before I am curious to know how different it is from normal bikes riding wise and any additional maintenance is involved and durability compared to normal bikes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15769" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T02:07:03.407" Title="Advice on Folding Bicycle" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-19T09:23:38.837" Score="-1" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;So there are various and sundry videos showing how one might create studded bicycle tires.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGlRdDGVLWs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; example is good, but you have many more choices.  However, I am a city commuter, and traction will likely be next to useless if my brakes fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If water were to freeze on the rim, it will drastically reduce the coefficient of friction between the rims and the calipers, aka: pray.  Hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very easy to imagine a situation in my climate where brakes do basically freeze.  We have wildly variable winters, we can have 60+ degrees one day and it will be freezing the same day next week.  For example:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A.)&lt;/strong&gt; the temperature drops to below freezing over the course of a ride, to freezing; water spray on the rim turns to ice, which isn't so easy to squeegee off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B.)&lt;/strong&gt; The bike is stored outside.  What was once moisture on the rim freezes over as the temp drops.  There is now an invisible layer of my ice on my whims. I try to apply the brakes, then I die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C.)&lt;/strong&gt; I ride through slush.  Barely melted snow as well as ice sticks to the rim because of tension forces.  Thin layers freeze, especially if I have to stop for any period of time in any depth of snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D.)&lt;/strong&gt; Exceptionally well-packing snow starts forming layers on the rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if I could rate the likelihood of these, but any case where slippery stuff is stuck your rims is,  y'know, basically a nightmare.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything I can think of that would adhere to the rim and change the freezing point of water on it is either horribly corrosive, will reduce the friction itself, or I don't trust it to stay on under all the snow and ice and water that isn't making a trip under the calipers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose there are mechanical options, but anything I can think of would be abrasive (ie, mount a blade to move in with the the rubber pads.  The more sparks, the better :P)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I ask: does anyone have &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; realistic way of keeping caliper brakes from freezing over during a temperature change or long ride?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T18:50:15.370" Title="Is there a way to keep rim brakes from freezing up?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27199" CreationDate="2014-12-19T10:47:49.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For A, C, and D, which are variations on material freezing to the rim during a ride, frequent light braking will do a lot to help - so it becomes much more of an issue on the open road than around town.  The brakes are quite good at removing anything other than a smooth skin of ice - so we want to stop that forming in the first place.  In these conditions you really want to be braking earlier and more gently than in more benign weather as whatever you do about your tyres they will have less traction on some of the surfaces you're likely to encounter (what's good for ice isn't great for snow and is bad for wet tarmac, etc.).  Don't forget that to freeze water you don't just have to lower its temperature but remove the latent heat, so if your rims are close to freezing point water won't freeze onto them quickly.  If the temperature is lower the snow won't really melt and packed snow won't adhere in the same way as ice - you'll have less-effective braking at first but not too bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you seriously want a mechanical solution I would suggest rigging something like a toothbrush lightly brushing the rims at all times to prevent anything accumulating,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your B is the worst case as you would get just the sheen of ice that you really don't want.  But you can test the brakes by spinning the wheel before you get on it, then try to remove the ice.  A plastic scraper may be OK on aluminium, and (warning - I've not tried this and brands will vary) car windscreen de-icer tends to be isopropanol - which wouldn't be a bad choice for cleaning your rims at other times (I have lock deicer in a much smaller can).  Some makes may have other things in that you wouldn't want anywhere near your braking surfaces. You can also try to leave the brakes and rims dry when you park the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T10:47:49.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27198" CreationDate="2014-12-19T12:12:56.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not really difference in maintenance. You have the same brakes, gears (rear), shocks, wheels, bearings. The only addition is the bolts where you fold the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the commute - folding bikes have smaller wheels, which ends up in:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decreased speed (for people like me who loves high speed it's significant). At some point you can see yourself pedaling like a crazy to get a just a little bit faster.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Significant sensitivity to road roughness. Any bump in the road becomes much more serious.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2014-12-21T10:42:29.943" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T10:42:29.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27198" CreationDate="2014-12-19T15:29:27.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A folding bike just does ride as well and is not as efficient. &#xA;Small frame and small wheels. &#xA;You are going to pay more for a folding bike. &#xA;Brand does matter - some of the high end ride nicely and some low end ride badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T15:29:27.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27206" CreationDate="2014-12-19T15:43:23.600" Score="1" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear rim had those small indents in it for rim brakes, they have brushed off now.&#xA;Can I re-indent those dots to make braking efficient again. My rim is double walled mtb compliant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14633" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T18:21:02.483" Title="My rear rim is worn off by braking" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27169" CreationDate="2014-12-19T16:37:39.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crits are scary as hell. Road racing in general is scary, but crits are the scariest of the scary. I've seen some gnarly crashes and both as a racer and a spectator, and you've experienced one yourself, so kudos for wanting to get back on the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do a postmortem:&lt;/strong&gt; Sometimes crashes happen so fast that it seems like one moment everything is fine and then next instant you're on your back staring up at the sky. But try to think back to the instant before it happened. What caused the crash? Did you come into the corner too hot? Was the corner off-camber? Did you lap someone's wheel in front of you? Did you get your bars tangled up with someone else's? Did you panic and hit the front brake? Was your body positioning off when you entered the corner? Try to replay the moments leading up to the crash in slow motion again and again in your head and figure out how you ended up crashing in the first place. This will aid you greatly in avoiding the same mistake in the future.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Know your bike's limits:&lt;/strong&gt; Understand what your bike is capable of, especially your tires. On a mountain bike, you can (and should!) flirt with the breaking point of traction on a regular basis, as it's typically easy to recover. This is not so on a road bike. When skinny wheel's cut, they cut fast and they rarely regain traction. Don't push your road bike tires that far. Road bike tires don't really drift or plow, so if you feel like you're pushing them too far, you probably are. In fact, if you feel like you are pushing them too far, you &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; are because your mind is already working against you, which leads me to the next point...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Know your own limits:&lt;/strong&gt; Understand what you're capable of physically and mentally. Know your own skill level and don't jump straight into the deep end. Work your way up slowly, push your boundaries, but don't try to go smashing through them &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkCNJRfSZBU#t=97&quot;&gt;Leeroy Jenkins-style&lt;/a&gt;. An increase in your personal skill level will come naturally over time if you push your bounds within reason. Pushing too hard leads to bigger mistakes, which leads to crashes, which leads to big setbacks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Baby steps:&lt;/strong&gt; Take your time and keep at it. Find a loop that you're comfortable with or get to know one well. Ride it often and slowly push yourself to ride it more aggressively, working on your turns especially since that's what's got you spooked. Start out solo, then ride with a friend, then a couple of friends. When you feel comfortable to do so, start doing some of the organized B group rides. When that starts to feel good, do some A group rides. Go back to racing only when you're comfortable doing so. I've always found that I'm way more scared of the idea of a crit than I am when I'm actually racing in one, so keep that in mind as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be persistent:&lt;/strong&gt; It &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; come back if you keep at it. Don't give up. The crash was a learning experience. Find the silver lining in it and keep on riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get out of Cat 5 if you're in it:&lt;/strong&gt; They don't call it &quot;Crash 5&quot; for nothing. If you're racing as a Category 5 road racer, get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacycling.org/news/user/story.php?id=580&quot;&gt;10 non-TT races under your belt&lt;/a&gt; and request an upgrade to Cat 4 through USA Cycling. You don't need to win or even do well, you just need to finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T16:37:39.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27203" CreationDate="2014-12-19T18:21:02.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  That indent or wear groove is to indicate the amount of wear on the rim.  If you can no longer see the indent, it means the rim is worn and should be replaced.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's take&lt;/a&gt;.  It's similar to if you no longer had tread on a tire.  You couldn't re-indent the tire to make new tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T18:21:02.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27199" CreationDate="2014-12-19T18:50:15.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this question is similar to what can I do to my road bike so it handles rock gardens better.  The real answer here is disc brakes.  This problem is extremely common here in both the fall and spring.  I personally found that the far worse situation was the ABS effect that happened when you grabbed the brakes hard and had only sections of the rim that were clear.  You end up with stutter braking that makes the bike very difficult to control (especially when it's unexpected).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly recommend disc brakes to anyone cycling in below freezing conditions.  Rim brakes have all the problems you mentioned above beyond often being less effective as the rubber hardens at colder temperatures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people will tell you that disc brakes are unnecessary for non-technical riding.  While its true that the stopping power generated by rim brakes under optimal conditions is fine, inclement weather can quickly make rim brakes perform sub optimally (or worse).  Disc brakes tend to be far less effected by these swings.  I spent my first several months suffering through winter commuting with rim brakes.  Eventually I bought a set of disc brakes and a wheel set that together cost more that the entry level bike I put them on.  I never recommend a bike with rim brakes to anyone that is thinking about winter commuting here in interior Alaska. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T18:50:15.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27134" CreationDate="2014-12-19T20:43:43.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your heart is healthy enough for exercise. Go to the doctor first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From a behavior change perspective, I'm a big believer in just doing it. Unless you have heart or lung problems, working up to a 7 mile bike ride is just going to give you more of an opportunity to quit. Decided to do it. Identify a start date, and then just do it. Every day. No matter what. Get some quality bad weather gear. It is much much harder to get into a habit of doing something once a week or every few days than it is to get into the habit of doing it every single time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15786" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T20:43:43.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2014-12-19T20:57:40.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suffered from terrible front brake squeal when wet. I'd tried cleaning the rotors and pads, I'd tried different organic and sintered pads, none of it made any difference. But finally I have solved it - by changing the rotor. The original rotor was the Avid one that came with the brake calipers (BB7s), which is pretty light and spidery. The replacement is a Shimano rotor (SM-RT61) that has far smaller cutouts. Now with the shimano rotor and sintered pads the brake only rarely, and very briefly, squeals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly the rear brake was identical and never made any noise. I guess that the difference is to do with the frame stiffness and resonant modes being quite different front and back. This is on a Surly Ogre frame, with an eZee hub motor on the front (I mention the hub because the motor hub has vastly more inertia than a normal front hub, and this might be a factor in the resonance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, YMMV. By all reports disc brakes are pretty fickle things and what fixed my problem might make yours worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14589" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T20:57:40.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27213" CreationDate="2014-12-20T03:49:04.777" Score="1" ViewCount="2898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to upgrade the stock wheels on my canondale caad10 rival. It came with a Fulcrum racing set. I was interested in converting this set of wheels for use on my single speed - a surly steamroller with an eno freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen several options including rebuilding the rear wheel to thread on a single speed hub or just adapting the current hub through spacers to achieve a proper chainline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm searching for a safe, but reliable and cheap conversion. Would anyone have any tips or suggestions for going forward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[UPADATE]&lt;/strong&gt; Just to bring some closure, and thanks, I used the front wheel as-is and ended up having a rear wheel built at my LBS. Went in to discuss options and found out they were running a $5 (yes, that's right) labor special. Parts + $5 and I was off and running, or pedaling. Thanks for the assistance, everyone!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5358" LastEditorUserId="5358" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T18:53:15.010" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T18:53:15.010" Title="Road wheel conversion to single speed wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-20T04:22:04.383" Score="1" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to bicycling and i don't have a clue as to what is necessary for a long distance bike trip. I am not sure that the Podium Three will fit my queen sized mattress. Most of the racks available will only hold up to thirty pounds and my TV weighs at least that much.  Should i get a bike that is better suited for longer distances with more weight, or should i just try to modify my current bike to fit the purpose.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. The Diamondback Podium Three is hydro-formed aluminum frame with 105 components(10 speed cassette). it weighs around 20 lbs and is classified as an endurance road bike. It has no mounting points for a rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rhsE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i am also kidding about the tv and mattress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15791" LastEditorUserId="15791" LastEditDate="2014-12-20T17:49:23.130" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T03:39:24.810" Title="I have a 2013 Diamondback Podium 3. Is it possible to use it as a touring bike?" Tags="&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27211" CreationDate="2014-12-20T04:30:11.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Steamroller has 120mm spacing (i.e. track hub spacing) in the back (based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/uploads/downloads/2011_Surly_Catalog.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2011 Surly complete catalog&lt;/a&gt;). A modern road hub is 130 mm spacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to buy a wheel with a 120 mm track hub on it and thread the cog on it -- you could &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#spreading&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spread (i.e. cold set) the frame&lt;/a&gt; in principle (spreading can be done if and only if the frame is steel) to take the 130 mm hub, but I would &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; recommend it (esp. on a nice Surly frame). Since it is more than a 1 size jump (120-&gt;126-&gt;130), you pretty much have to do the cold setting if you want to go through with this plan (you may want to get a bike shop to do it, esp. for the fork). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you do choose to take the plunge and spread the frame, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html#k7hub&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;option&lt;/a&gt; you should probably take is get a bunch of spacers and a single speed cog and put the spacers on to get the right chain line. Many companies sell &quot;single speed conversion kits&quot;, which sell the spacers as well as the cog together for a n-speed cassette hub, which you can get for a fairly low price. Less ideal options include things like just sticking the wheel in as-is (with a multi-speed cassette) and aligning the chain as best as possible, but if you're willing to buy an Eno freewheel, this is silly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-12-20T05:06:01.063" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T05:06:01.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27212" CreationDate="2014-12-20T05:13:14.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This bike is a poor choice for any touring where you have to carry things (if you're doing a supported tour, you may be able to pass with it). It doesn't have rack+fender mounts and doesn't have particularly tough wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of touring you're doing, you should look at some touring bikes like the Surly Long Haul Trucker or Trek 520.  Typically, these are made of steel (repairable), have lots of rack and fender mounts (so you can carry stuff and not get wet), bar end shifters (simpler and less prone to failure than brifters), a wide range of gearing (so you can tackle hills efficiently), tough wheels (36 spokes typically, so they don't break), good tire clearance (fat tires = more weight carrying ability and nicer ride) and a relaxed geometry (so you're not in pain after a long day of riding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike you choose (and how you modify it) for touring will depend on the type of tour you plan to do. But generally, you need to pack light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T05:13:14.970" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27211" CreationDate="2014-12-20T09:55:33.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have come across a web site called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopsingle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velosolo&lt;/a&gt; which offers conversion kits (cogs, spacers, chain tensioners if necessary), especially when going from a geared wheel. Perhaps something on there will suit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That site also has a decent FAQ which might help you identify some of the issues, although by the sounds of things you're already quite clued up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-12-20T12:25:49.257" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T12:25:49.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27169" CreationDate="2014-12-20T10:44:18.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are my steps to mental recovery after a crash:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;learn as much as you can about the crash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stop thinking about it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;introduce (or re-introduce) the fun factor into your rides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;done&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not bother yourself with how much the transition from 3 to 4 will take. Thinking about it will make it longer. When you reach 4 you'll find yourself stronger, more confident and having more fun than before the crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T10:44:18.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23422" CreationDate="2014-12-20T10:48:40.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possible and modern solution is: none. Go 1x10 or 1x11 with a narrow wide chain ring and a RD with a clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T10:48:40.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27229" CreationDate="2014-12-20T15:49:35.820" Score="2" ViewCount="3515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an old road bike. I'm not exactly sure what the frame is as it was repainted. I've reason to believe the that bottom bracket is wrong because the crankset ring is too close to the chainstay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankset is a shimano golden arrow, similar to this picture &lt;a href=&quot;https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7067/6994214279_d19b265a9a_z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7067/6994214279_d19b265a9a_z.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4Hh6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;I'm concerned about the offset as you can see above in this picture. On the non drive side the crank looks like it is designed to be much further in and on the drive side it is really close in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please advise me how one knows which bottom bracket is right for X bike. Shell width is reasonably obvious because otherwise it wont fit but what about axel length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is a late eighties / early 90s cinelli steel frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some BB shells also have different design for the casing which means there is more space between the side of the shell and the crank.  Are there any hard and fast rules for BB choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T09:13:14.407" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T09:13:14.407" Title="How do I know what is the right bottom bracket for my old road bike?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27218" CreationDate="2014-12-20T17:18:00.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably a ISO BB with JSO cranks or vice versa.&#xA;A lot of modern BBs and cranks are JSO, a lot of older BBs are ISO which are slightly narrower so when you put the crank on, it sits closer to the frame.&#xA;I know that's not a full answer but hopefully puts you in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15793" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T17:18:00.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27221" CreationDate="2014-12-20T19:31:19.280" Score="4" ViewCount="11597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on going bike touring in S.East Asia. I've been planning which bike to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Companies like Thorn offer custom made bikes (specially designed for adventure-style cycle touring), but they somewhat expensive and I have enough expertise to build something similar myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking to use a mountain bike frame because they are designed to take more abuse than road bikes and I plan to ride on rough tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mountain bike seems to offer much of the ruggedness offered by a custom made bike, but then not being a bike designer there must be some shortcoming using it to carry luggage and over long distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2014-12-22T23:19:36.337" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T23:19:36.337" Title="Can I use a mountain bike to go bike touring?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27220" CreationDate="2014-12-20T19:38:11.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know people that have done extensive touring on a mounting bike.&#xA;You have a sturdy stable frame and gear ratios for climbing. &#xA;Look for a steel frame that has lugs for racks. &#xA;And a solid fork over suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage is not quite as efficient.&#xA;And the single hand position is more fatiguing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T19:38:11.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27134" CreationDate="2014-12-21T01:21:09.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seek 3 appears to be an excellent choice. A triple up front with lots of low end hill climbing ability. I see that you're in Oregon. Disc brakes here in the Pacific Northwet (I'm in Olympia, WA) are an excellent choice. I've been commuting on a Kona Dew since 2008, and upgrading to the next Kona model up with disc brakes is the one thing I would have changed, if I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fenders are essential. In my view, one can never have too many lights. I have ten on my bike, plus one on my helmet. Get at least one rear red flashing light, and two front white lights--one to be used flashing and one to be used solid. Batteries can die at the most inopportune moments, so two rear red flashing lights is good insurance against being without any rear light. A helmet protects one against lots of injuries, but it certainly won't save you if you need a tractor trailer head on. Riding glasses, particularly in the winter time, are needed. Don't rely upon cheap, inexpensive safety glasses as they will fog up and become useless. A product called Cat Crap--yes, that's really it's name--is one of the best anti-fog eyewear treatments on the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would please, update your post with the tires on your bike. According to the Giant website, the 2014 Seek 3 comes with Schwalbe Big Apple tires. If so, they appear to be an excellent choice for commuting. Tires that came with my Kona were very soft and puncture prone. After switching to Kevlar tires, I had a much happier commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decent riding jacket in a highly visible color keeps the rain off, helps to make you visible to others, and will provide a good balance of warmth and ventilation in this mild climate. Rain pants are really all one needs in addition on rainy days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2008, my commute was 2 miles over flat ground, and I was 41 at the time. A few weeks into it, I was pretty worn. Had to start riding every other day for a few weeks before I was able to comfortably ride every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2012, after a new job and a move, my commute fell to 1.4 miles; however, a modest uphill component was added. Kicked my backside for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also started riding with the local bike club once a week. Rode a 10-12 mile ride on a Sunday, and at 45 I thought I would die. Kept riding with them, and by the end of the ride season I'd ridden a number of longer rides of between 25 and 40 miles--plus one 68 mile ride. In 2013, I rode even more, including two 80 mile rides. In 2014, I rode my first two Centuries (100 mile rides).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check into the local bike clubs. Going out just once a week, for even a short ride of 10-20 miles, will do wonders in making your 7 mile commute a breeze. I must warn you though, it can simply be feeding an addiction, but I can think of worse things than a cycling addiction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your ride home will be uphill, look into the local bus service. Perhaps you can split your commute between the bus and your bike--particularly if you can ride the bus home, uphill, with your bike on the front rack of the transit bus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read up on Sheldon Brown's lock strategy.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T01:21:09.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27198" CreationDate="2014-12-21T02:13:03.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Folding bikes are great.  Many higher-end folding bikes have derailleurs or geared hubs, which means that they can be just as fast as a regular bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only things that you lose are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stability because of the smaller wheels. This can be a positive as a city bicycle as they are more nimble (i.e., less stable) at slower speeds. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harder ride. Because the wheels are smaller and the spokes smaller, the ride will be rougher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frames are not as rigid and are arguably less strong. So you won't be able to jump off curbs and do as many bunny hops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T02:13:03.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13600" CreationDate="2014-12-21T03:05:28.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;almost the same by me just i found the problem and it cuold be the same for yours one of the links from the chain is bent out of shape (use a flat screw driver to bend it back in shape) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15795" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T03:05:28.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27115" CreationDate="2014-12-21T03:26:31.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A road bike that does not stop quickly &amp;amp; predictably could be very dangerous.&#xA;Poorly adjusted brakes, an untrue wheel, damaged cables can contribute to poor braking performance.&#xA;Contaminated braking surfaces can render brakes almost useless. Oil, grease, wax are the usual suspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T03:26:31.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27232" CreationDate="2014-12-21T08:59:45.933" Score="3" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of adventure touring bikes, or bikes designed for bikepacking, off-road touring and the like. But what is the difference between one of these and a standard mountain bike.  E.g. what is the difference between the Salsa Fargo frame and something like the Kona Explosif. Or what is the difference between the Thorn Nomad or Raven and an Orange P7. I understand that the touring frames are more likely to have rack eyelets, but what are the other differences in design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2014-12-21T21:23:43.693" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T21:23:43.693" Title="What are the technical differences between a bike for off-road touring and a mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27218" CreationDate="2014-12-21T09:42:41.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, BB lengths follow the specification of the crank. Thus if you have a look at this site, it will state the BB length for this particular crank&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=5d1f43ed-82ec-48d0-b6e2-65f92ecdfcbe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=5d1f43ed-82ec-48d0-b6e2-65f92ecdfcbe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your crank specifications are not available, then i'd start by measuring the current chainline as per Sheldon Brown (genuflect now)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then measure your BB spindle length and adjust accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a good start is to know what crank you are using. If its Shimano, its likely using British ISO type BB. If its an Italian or French branded crank.. and depending on its age etc.. it could be using more 'exotic' BBs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do a search for Sheldon Brown Bottom bracket for info on that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15798" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T09:42:41.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27228" CreationDate="2014-12-21T09:52:45.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from touring specific braze-ons (rackss, fenders, spokes, pump, etc), the short answer is that adventure touring bikes are going to be more well suited as an all around machine where as an MTB has a narrower performance mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer is frame geometry. Briefly looking at the geometry of some of the bikes you listed shows the Kona having shorter chainstays and a higher bottom bracket. In theory giving the bike better pedal clearance a shorter more responsive wheelbase. The Orange on the other hand has a lower BB and longer chainstays for increased stability and better heal clearance for rear panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame geometry, however, is extremely subjective. Builders take a lot of things into account when making decisions. A lower bottom bracket for example decreases frame clearance but increases stability at higher speeds by lowering your center of gravity. One frame builder may value this decision higher than the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15797" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T09:52:45.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27198" CreationDate="2014-12-21T09:59:55.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good folding bike should ride just as well and last just long as a traditional bike. BikeFriday has a reputation for bikes that feel &quot;normal.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as maintenance goes there is very little difference. From my experience the only thing that needs more frequent maintenance are the cable housings. This is because cables usually have to make more complex cable bends on a compact folding frame. This causes the housing wear out a bit faster. From my experience about 33% faster than my traditional bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15797" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T09:59:55.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27228" CreationDate="2014-12-21T10:06:58.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a glance, comparing the Salsa Fargo and Kona Explosif, the Salsa's bottom bracket is lower than the Konas. The Salsa's BB position is more like a road bike. Thus if I were to hazard a guess, the Kona is purpose designed for severe off roading to clear rocks, logs and all. The Salsa on the other hand doesn't need to worry about such severity and can offer better high speed handling by lowering your centre of gravity and allowing easier directional changes with shifts in your body&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats not saying that the Salsa can't go off road.. It just can't do the extreme terrain very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh to add to that... The Salsa's chain stay is longer. Probably better for touring handling and probably better for carrying panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15798" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T10:06:58.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27198" CreationDate="2014-12-21T10:20:09.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After trying to live with a folding bike, here are my observations. Most, (all) foldy bikes have a feel different from a regular road or MTB. so the feeling is never going to be the same. There might be some flex from the handlebars, they could be slow or feel as though they are going to fall over.... So I think to a large extent it would be best to put their handling characteristics out of the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a true measure of a folding bike is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how it folds,&#xA;how easy it is to walk up the stairs with it,&#xA;how easy it is to put it in the boot of the car,&#xA;how easy to walk 10 meters with the bike in its completely folded state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(or how easy it is to fulfil your portability needs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly a downhill mtb with 7&quot; of suspension is not going to work so well as a regular street commuter, but in the right environment its horses for courses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15798" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T10:20:09.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32924" CreationDate="2014-12-21T11:09:13.727" Score="7" ViewCount="3456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a long bike and canoe trip (&lt;em&gt;bike tows canoe, canoe carries bike and cart&lt;/em&gt;), There are a couple of purpose built products for towing a canoe with a bike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dumb-stick.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dumb stick&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wicycle.com/index.php/products/boat-trailers/the-wike-towing-tee-and-hitch/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;woody hitch&lt;/a&gt; but they each have short comings.  There are hub connections used by standard tow a kid trailers, but they are not designed for the heavier usage of towing a canoe, and replacements must be mail ordered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are around 100 different home made approaches pictured on the internet.  Many of the home grown solutions involve welding or special fabrication solutions, the remainder only have pictures and stories from when the idea was conceived. There are a few stories about long bike &amp;amp; canoe journeys but the ones I found do not have detail about the trailer connection.  I have seriously spent hours looking at posts and problem solving.  Based on research I have a solution that uses off the shelf parts from the local DIY store, but my solution (&lt;em&gt;unique I think&lt;/em&gt;) does not yet have a proven history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a journey of thousands of miles (Pittsburgh, PA. to New Orleans, LA.), it is reasonable to expect that every component may fail at least once. The more specialized it is the more difficult it will be to replace or repair on the journey.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a bike to canoe trailer connection, (&lt;em&gt;I am using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003CRNYTC&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seattle Sports ATC Cart&lt;/a&gt; but not the hitch or tongue&lt;/em&gt;) that has a proven (&lt;em&gt;100s to 1,000s of miles&lt;/em&gt;) design, that can be built or repaired with materials commonly available in hardware stores and with simple hand tools.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update per request in comments&lt;/strong&gt; My bicycle is a disposable ($100 new) from a box store (target possibly), My canoe is an older 17 foot Coleman it weighs about 75 pounds empty but will probably have another 50 pounds of gear at journey onset. The wheels/cart are centered so there is ~1-5 pounds tongue weight. (&lt;em&gt;The dolly is rated at 300 pounds so tongue weight should always be 10 pounds or less&lt;/em&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The current solution only has about 5 miles on it&lt;/strong&gt;. A schedule 40 PVC 1 1/4 (&lt;em&gt;or 1 1/2?&lt;/em&gt;) to 1 inch connector is used as the hitch, the bike has a quick release for the seat, so loosen the seat pull the post out and center the connector and restore the seat = Connected, (takes like 5 seconds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The support arm is a 4 foot section of schedule 40 PVC 1 inch pipe, structural strength is added by inserting a 4 foot length of 1 inch dowel, slathered (&lt;em&gt;during insertion&lt;/em&gt;) with silicone sealant for water proofing, and adhesion to the inside of the pipe.  Connection to the canoe is via two J Hooks with wing nuts (drill through pipe and dowel).  The bow connector seemed like it would have more strain, and there was a slide over T connector (not water tight) with a screw in connector, I cut the screw in part off and used it to add strength to the center/bow connection.  Joining the T to the tube is with PVC cement and a small (3//16?) bolt and nut is placed through the 1 inch junction of the T, Tube &amp;amp; Dowel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is off the shelf (Lowe's), Because the seat post is at about a 15 degree angle, the hitch self-centers and tends to stay fairly stable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W0dtb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JAGlI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zPUO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14181" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T21:45:22.820" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T15:50:10.373" Title="Trailer connection, off the shelf parts and proven performer" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-21T11:17:30.397" Score="1" ViewCount="1481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I seem to have amassed a huge collection of bike parts. Some parts are old and need a specialist market so I don't think that ebay is the best marketplace for them. How can I sell on / give away old bike parts so I know that  I'm getting the best price and/or reaching the right audience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T01:16:37.063" Title="Where should I sell old bike parts?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26006" CreationDate="2014-12-21T20:19:53.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Q1: A bad idea because it is already broken-in in a way that means it is irreparably shapes for the previous owners body?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to &lt;a href=&quot;http://lovelybike.blogspot.ca/2012/06/re-shaping-deformed-leather-saddles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reshape a leather saddle by first soaking it in water&lt;/a&gt;, resetting the shape then breaking the saddle in.  I have seen it referred to as the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/components/brooks-blocking.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blocking Technique&lt;/a&gt;&quot; and have also seen &lt;strong&gt;warnings&lt;/strong&gt; that it is possible to overstretch and even break the leather (although I am personally doubtful) so caution is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use water to reset the shape, treat the saddle with proofide or minks oil.  Let it dry then break it in the old fashion way (lots of miles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could use water to reset the shape, treat the saddle with proofide or minks oil, then break it in with a short ride (10 min) while wet to create a new shape. Then use successively longer rides to fully break in. See the tutorials below for more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt; - you could also wreck the saddle if you do things like crank up the tension it while wet, or ride or a long time while soaking wet.  If you have never worked with leather before, be prepared for the possibility of &lt;em&gt;failure&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General Article:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lovelybike.blogspot.ca/2012/06/re-shaping-deformed-leather-saddles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Re-shaping Deformed Leather Saddles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Water Break-in Tutorials&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.randorichard.com/saddle-break-in&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Breaking in a Leather Saddle - Rando Richard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pactour.blogspot.ca/2011/01/breaking-in-leather-saddle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Breaking In a Leather Saddle - LON'S PACTOUR&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Q2: A good idea because the leather is more supple and more easily bent and shaped to the new riders body?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leather actually gets stretched to match the rider that breaks it in, so it is not more supple to newer riders.  Ideally, for the most capacity to adapt to your body, you would want to start from an un-stretched (beyond factory stretching) saddle.   That doesn't mean a used one can not adapt your body, but that your best shot is with a new saddle.  Assuming your physical structure is not radically different, this point is likely more academic than real world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Q3: An equally good idea because the leather will simply reshape over time?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither - as stated in my answer to Q2, the capacity for the leather to adapt to your individual shape will likely be less. Whether or not this will matter with the saddle you purchase will depend on a number of factors from your personal physical bone structure, and preferred riding position, to the condition of the used saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2014-12-22T00:16:11.930" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T00:16:11.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-21T20:36:59.447" Score="1" ViewCount="813" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could somebody give me an idea of how to figure out the number of calories I'm burning on a stationary bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike I'm using is a cheap Pro Fitness magnetic bike from Argos (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/9237386.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/9237386.htm&lt;/a&gt;), and it comes with a digital readout of speed, distance, pulse, calories, etc. but the calories stay the same no matter what setting I ride on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, if I do 45 minutes at 30 kph on setting 1 (extremely easy), the calorie readout will be the same as if I do 45 minutes at 30 kph on setting 8 (around 200!). Obviously this cannot be true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been using this site (&lt;a href=&quot;http://prod.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/cycling-calories-burned-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://prod.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/cycling-calories-burned-calculator&lt;/a&gt;) to get an estimation of my calories, and the calculator says I will burn about 750 calories for a 45 minute ride at 30kph, but the calculator is for bicycles and not stationary bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any guidelines or info for stationary bikes only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15803" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T22:02:49.547" Title="Stationary bike calories" Tags="&lt;stationary-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27239" CreationDate="2014-12-21T22:02:49.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you say you have a heart rate display, you can use one of the various &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=hr+calories+burned&amp;amp;oq=hr+calories+burned&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online calculators&lt;/a&gt; to convert heart rate to calories. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such calculators can only give you an approximate answer, but they will be better than nothing. And they're free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful not to overheat using a stationary bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T22:02:49.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-21T22:53:39.587" Score="5" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've driven up to the visitor station but not up to the summit - what are the road conditions like beyond the visitor station, where can you refill water, and should I prepare for anything beyond a leg crushing day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be starting on Kona (west) side, in September, and am expecting about 6-7 hours of straight climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's about all I know so far;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mauna Kea, Hawaii, HI&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This mostly paved climb is perhaps the largest&#xA;  rideable climb in the world.  The first 34 miles are paved, then 5&#xA;  miles often loose cinder gravel, and then 3 final miles of pavement. &#xA;  The first 28 miles up Saddle road from Hilo gains only 6600 feet at&#xA;  modest grade, tapering off to almost flat in the saddle between Mauna&#xA;  Loa and Mauna Kea.  Turning off onto Mauna Kea Access Road is a real&#xA;  shocker, as you are now faced with sustained 17% grades at high&#xA;  altitudes.  The Fiets index for this climb is off the charts at nearly&#xA;  30.  It’s a combination of net gain and high altitude driving the high rating.  Like Haleakala, views are too good to describe with words. &#xA;  Many of the world’s most powerful telescopes are at this summit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ref: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northeastcycling.com/Favorite_Climbs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northeastcycling.com/Favorite_Climbs.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14299" LastEditorUserId="14299" LastEditDate="2014-12-22T14:50:13.950" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T21:19:44.480" Title="What should I plan for on a sea-to-summit ride on Mauna Kea, Hawaii?" Tags="&lt;climbing&gt;&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27212" CreationDate="2014-12-22T03:39:24.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use that bike for touring.  Probably not &quot;proper loaded touring&quot; which is the most traditional type, but light touring, i.e. sleeping in hotels and not carrying a lot of food or luxury items like a laptop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a few options to outfit the bike with a modest amount of cargo capacity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tubus.com/product.php?xn=9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tubus Fly Classic&lt;/a&gt; rear rack with the Tubus QR axle adaptor kit.  Then buy some small &quot;front&quot; panniers.  The bags need to be quite &quot;narrow&quot; from front to rear to avoid heel strike, i.e. to provide enough clearance for your shoes to go around on the pedals.  If the bike is very small this will be tricky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Bikepacking,&quot; i.e. smaller bags which directly attach using velcro.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.revelatedesigns.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Revelate Designs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.apidura.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Apidura&lt;/a&gt; are popular currently.  You can get a large saddle bag which holds a surprising amount of clothing (enough for a warm-weather trip for sure), and/or a frame bag which mounts inside the main triangle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A handlebar bag, which is useful on almost any touring bike.  Since you have drop bars, you may want one with a QR stem mount that sets it away from the front of the bars a bit.  This adds some weight, but lets you use the tops of the bars more effectively.  Extra hand positions while touring are useful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A backpack.  Sort of a last resort as far as I'm concerned, but definitely an option for shorter tours, or if you're quite fit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A trailer.  Not aesthetically very compatible with your bike I suppose, but this gives you enough capacity to actually carry a television, and you can use it with almost any type of bike.  Get this if you're a hoarder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T03:39:24.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26006" CreationDate="2014-12-22T11:01:11.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was one time my Brooks with no waterproofing whatsoever got thoroughly soaked and it stretched  and sagged like an arm chair with broken springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also encountered similar used Brooks saddles that are so stretched that all you feel is the front and rear of the saddle and nothing in-between&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only I've been able to make them work again is to lace up like this photo i'm linking to online &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a261/catskillscooby/BikeForums/IMG_5670.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a261/catskillscooby/BikeForums/IMG_5670.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your saddle has no holes for the lace, you'll likely need to punch them with a belt hole punch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this worked significantly better than using the screw adjuster at the nose...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long story short, old leather saddles may not be a good idea&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15798" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T11:01:11.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25939" CreationDate="2014-12-22T11:04:25.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@blam&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, I don't acknowledge spinning is 2x. Any rim mass added/removed only matters 2x &lt;em&gt;during changes in kinetic energy&lt;/em&gt;, i.e. during accelerations only, and not for the vast majority of riding we do, which is mostly steady state or involves such low rates of acceleration that the difference in energy demand is completely negligible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget that any extra rotational kinetic energy a heavier rim possesses also means the wheel doesn't decelerate as quickly either, meaning one can coast a little more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Claiming wheel mass matters 2x &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; misleading, because, well, it doesn't. The 2x only applies when accelerating and only to mass added at the outer rim edge, and we get some of that energy back when decelerating. During the vast majority of time we are riding we are not accelerating, or the changes in speed happen so slowly (even when racing) that the difference in energy demand is miniscule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastEditorUserId="13358" LastEditDate="2014-12-22T11:11:03.430" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T11:11:03.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10236" CreationDate="2014-12-22T11:47:53.393" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have reversed the stem to bring the bars closer.  I found no difference in steering or safety.  If a reversed stem is needed, use it without worry.  My answer is specific to &quot;cruiser bars,&quot; or &quot;cow horn bars&quot; that do not interfere with the top tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15807" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T11:47:53.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27220" CreationDate="2014-12-22T19:34:10.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You certainly can use a mountain bike for touring, and many people have done so. They have suitable gearing for climbing and are generally stout enough to support the weight and abuse of loaded touring (caveats below). However it is worth noting the differences between a mountain bike and a touring bike, and consider these factors for your trip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MTB frames usually have a more responsive geometry with shorter chain stays and wheelbase, steeper steering angle, and a higher bottom bracket. These features make a MTB more nimble on trails, but less stable when loaded and traveling at high speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MTB frames are usually aluminum which often doesn't provide as much vibration dampening. Aluminum is also more prone to structural fatigue than steel and with many miles can crack or worse. Carbon fiber is even less suitable than aluminum and should never be used for loaded touring for safety reasons (until a carbon frame purposefully built for touring is available).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MTB frames with rear disc brakes often do not have rack mounts; the usual location of a rack's lower connection point conflicts with the brake calipers. Old Man Mountain makes touring racks which fit bikes with this limitation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MTB frames usually have fewer water bottle mounts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A MTB with suspension, unless locked-out, will decrease peddling efficiency. Unless you're touring on very rough roads the suspension is just added weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A MTB's straight handlebars do not provide different hand positions for avoiding hand and arm fatigue, and potential &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.active.com/cycling/articles/uncomfortably-numb-tips-for-healthy-hands&quot;&gt;hand nerve damage&lt;/a&gt; from extended compression of the ulnar nerve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller wheels, such as the 26&quot; wheels commonly used on MTB, are stronger than larger wheels such as the 700c of road and touring bikes. These wheel's replacement parts (tires, spokes, and rims) have also traditionally been easier to find in less developed countries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MTB tires with aggressive tread can have lower rolling efficiency than slick tires, and at least contributes to a noisier ride. Tread can, counterintuitively, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&quot;&gt;decrease the traction&lt;/a&gt; of the tire on a smooth road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite these differences, a MTB can be a very suitable touring machine. Some of the best touring options are early (1980s–90s) rigid (no suspension) steel frame mountain bikes, which can be found second-hand very inexpensively. Some MTBs may even be converted to use drop bars with road brake levers and bar-end shifters (you'll want to get an expert opinion from a local bike shop as some MTB brakes or derailleurs aren't compatible with road brake levers or shifters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15809" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T19:34:10.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15047" CreationDate="2014-12-22T19:59:04.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently did some extra analysis on the modelling referred to in my previous answer, this time using a realistic power output curve for accelerations from a standing start and from two rolling start scenarios, instead of the assumed flat 1000W used in the earlier model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full link is here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://alex-cycle.blogspot.com.au/2014/12/the-sum-of-parts-ii.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://alex-cycle.blogspot.com.au/2014/12/the-sum-of-parts-ii.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in short, the conclusions are the same, just a minor differences in exact timing of when aero become more advantageous in a standing start. If already rolling on flat terrain, it's always better choice, and I added a third scenario, an acceleration up a hill from a low start speed (think of a criterium U-turn at bottom of hill). In that case the aero wheel still wins, unless the finish line is close to the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T19:59:04.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-22T22:28:59.647" Score="3" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read the term neuromuscular endurance perhaps something related to having your brain not accustomed to high speed pedalling. I'm curious as it is related to bicycling cadence and I'm working on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T22:01:13.967" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T11:40:03.060" Title="What is neuromuscular endurance in the world of bicycling?" Tags="&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-22T22:50:23.533" Score="2" ViewCount="3160" Body="&lt;p&gt;i currently own a 2002 Giant TCR 2 and have been pleased but as i am approaching 60 and hills aren't getting any easier was thinking of converting to a compact crank.  I currently have a Shimano double crank with octalink and found a FSA OMEGA EXO COMPACT Crankset&#xA;175mm X 110MM BCD doe 9 speed The bottom bracket currently on there is an octalink 9.5 MM.  Will it fit, both brackets are the same diameter.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15816" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T05:04:21.367" Title="Converting an octalink bottom bracket and crankset to a fsa bottom bracket and compact crankset 9 speed" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27235" CreationDate="2014-12-22T23:21:41.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the urban-ness of your area, there may be local &quot;bike swap&quot; events once or twice a year. If you really have a lot to get rid of, this could be one way to get it in front of the right people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T23:21:41.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27253" CreationDate="2014-12-23T01:26:25.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand FSA has all kinds of BB standards I don't have a sure answer for you, but if the splines match up and the crank sits securely then its a go. however you may find that due to crank/bb compatibility, the crank may actually sit further out or further in which will thus affect your chainline which then affects your shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally the octalink is an older standard that is more difficult (at least for me) to find. Thus I'd honestly suggest that if you could, go the Shimano and their hollowtech 2 BB route. the BB is lighter, their hollowtech cranks are stiffer. you can feel a difference when you pedal, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15798" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T01:26:25.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27253" CreationDate="2014-12-23T04:58:28.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current favorite reference on the mess that is bottom bracket compatibility is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/complete-guide-to-bottom-brackets-36660/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this BikeRadar article&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize the BikeRadar article:&#xA;&quot;Conventional Threaded: Standard 24mm external type (Shimano Hollowtech II [, Shimano Octalink], SRAM/Truvativ GXP, Campagnolo Ultra-Torque, FSA MegaExo, Race Face X-Type,  etc), square taper, ISIS, BB386 EVO&quot; can all be put into the same frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do the crankset swap, you'll need to put in the MegaExo bottom bracket and then install the FSA crankset (you can't just stick a MegaExo crankset into an octalink bb) [This will require things like adjusting the FD as well, but you'll likely be using your LBS to do this swap anyway, and they should take care of it]. Note that you may also want to get a bigger rear cassette to help with hills (this alone may be sufficient and significantly cheaper), or even switch to a bike with a triple (and less race-y). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you don't want to swap to a MegaExo BB, Shimano's Claris 2450 Crankset is an octalink crankset. And you may be able to take your current crankset and do some chainring swapping as well to get the desired effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T05:04:21.367" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T05:04:21.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27258" CreationDate="2014-12-23T08:01:10.750" Score="0" ViewCount="1603" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trek used to make only &quot;WSD&quot; versions of the same model names sold &quot;for men.&quot;  But things aren't that simple anymore!  What's the men's version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/endurance_race/lexa/lexa_slx_compact/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lexa SLX&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T19:50:25.697" Title="What is the men's version of Trek Lexa SLX" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27257" CreationDate="2014-12-23T13:52:33.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking around their site, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/performance_race/madone/madone_2_1_h2_compact/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Madone 2.1&lt;/a&gt; seems to have similar components, yet is only $1,319.99 compared to the Lexa which is $1,649.99.  Looking over the specs,  I can't see why there is such a discrepancy in the price.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/endurance_race/domane/domane_2_3_compact/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Domane 2.3&lt;/a&gt; is also quite similar and has the IsoSpeed decoupler on the frame and appears to hace rack mounts based on the picture. It is priced at $1,869.99.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There also seems to be a substantial price difference between the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/performance_race/silque_womens/silque_compact/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Silque&lt;/a&gt; and the very similar &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/road/performance_race/emonda/emonda_s_4/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Emonda S4&lt;/a&gt;, which are priced at $2,089.99 and $1,649.99 respectively.  It's interesting that the women's specific models seem to be so much more expensive.  Maybe there's something I'm missing out on with the pricing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T02:00:32.673" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T02:00:32.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17888" CreationDate="2014-12-23T19:08:18.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're doing much more in terms of manoeuvrability on a 'cross bike so you tend to go for a less aggressive geometry which in non-custom frame translates to generally a tiny bit smaller. So if you ride a 52/53 standard frame on road you'll probably be looking at 51/52 for cross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15821" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T19:08:18.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27234" CreationDate="2014-12-23T21:09:31.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's difficult to answer such a broad question, and what I'd like to say is too long for a comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/maps/dir/Pittsburgh,+PA,+USA/New+Orleans,+LA,+USA/@35.1053033,-89.7857606,6z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x8834f16f48068503:0x8df915a15aa21b34!2m2!1d-79.9958864!2d40.4406248!1m5!1m1!1s0x8620a454b2118265:0xdb065be85e22d3b4!2m2!1d-90.0715323!2d29.9510658!3e1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the trip&lt;/a&gt; appears to be gently downhill, there are a few hills. How will you go up them with that rig, and how will you slow the thing going down them? That trailer doesn't appear to have brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;everything you will need is specialised, and not widely available. At some point you will very likely have to mail order a part and wait for it to be posted to your current location. Not doing that will make your life extremely difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I suggest looking at cargo trailers rather than kiddie trailers. They are designed for heavier loads and longer trips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The trailer will exert considerable force on the bicycle at some point. With a design limit of 5-10 pounds you ensure that the trailer hitch will break at that point. Imagine hitting a pothole at 20mph, or a car door. Do you really want to see your canoe go careening off on its own path then?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/887/10584&quot;&gt;BSO&lt;/a&gt; is a poor choice for any journey of more than a thousand miles. Those bikes are designed to be ridden short distances for a short time, then thrown away and replaced. It is very likely that the rear wheel will taco the first time you turn and brake, for example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is your recovery plan when the canoe tips over? Bicycles sink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is your recovery plan when the canoe gets dented on the trailer? Trailers tip over, wind gusts push them into things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens when it rains? You're towing a big bucket!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think 50lbs/45kg of gear is low for a trip this long, especially a mixed-mode one. You need gear for riding, plus canoeing, plus spares and tools for both, plus clothing and toiletries. That suggests to me that you will have the absolute minimum of gear and rely on buying every meal where you will eat it, and using accommodation along the way rather than camping. You could do that, but you should plan on spending at least one night cold and hungry when you fail to reach a destination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10584" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T21:09:31.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27271" CreationDate="2014-12-23T21:53:43.253" Score="4" ViewCount="6031" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I want to ascend a steep (say, 50%) slope, where is impossible to ride and awkward to push/pull the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried various ways of carrying the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifting it just 10 cm above the ground - good for very short sections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifting it with one hand to shoulder height - good for short sections; the arm gets tired quicky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holding it above my neck with two hands; the arms get numb quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting it on my backpack; the back starts to ache at random places, as if warped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine the last idea, with resting the bike on the backpack, is the only usable one for long sections (say, 30-60 minutes walking). Am I right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which way can I secure my bike on my backpack, so the back ache (and supposedly damage) is minimized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I had a half-full 35-litre backpack at the day I had this problem. I am willing to fill my pack with light bulky stuff if needed, but I don't want a bigger pack: 35 L seems enough for maximal journeys I want to do; any bigger and it starts to be annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastEditorUserId="4056" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T22:46:18.840" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T00:13:43.283" Title="How to carry a MTB on one's backpack?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27265" CreationDate="2014-12-23T23:15:29.363" Score="0" ViewCount="1145" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be the wrong site but it's the closest one I thought someone would have knowledge of the question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not for a bike but rather replacing the wheels on a power wheels... The axle is 7/16&quot; can I use a wheel with 5/8&quot; axle hole (bore?) or does it have to be tighter fit like 1/2&quot;? Or even 7/16, 15/32?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15823" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T03:04:01.023" Title="Axle to wheel bore ratio?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-12-24T16:43:40.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27262" CreationDate="2014-12-24T00:06:48.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not really a question we can answer for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice lashing the bike to the pack until you get something balanced.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You have front wheel up, front wheel down, and sideways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A climbing style pack will have more lash points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the weight high so you can lean forward and get the weight over your hips without bending a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T03:46:49.843" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T03:46:49.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27263" CreationDate="2014-12-24T03:04:01.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using an axle much smaller than the hole it fits into is sure to end badly.  However, you can make up the difference with a sleeve bushing.  Maybe you can find a standard size bushing that fits well, or maybe you'll need to invent one e.g. from copper plumbing pipe.  If you want to try the pipe approach, use 3/8&quot; copper surrounded by 1/2&quot; copper and you might just find a good enough fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want the wheels to wobble...if they do, they will wear out rather quickly, and the vehicle's--ahem--performance may be adversely affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T03:04:01.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-24T04:42:25.910" Score="1" ViewCount="1467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received a Tubus rack that I am happy with.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the instructions there is a wide rear light with a double point attachment.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I want one of those big lights - can someone tell me of one?     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tubus.com/documents/1321360149_Carry.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see light in this&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="4444" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T05:21:25.163" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T07:22:51.840" Title="Light for Tubus rear rack" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;taillight&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-12-24T16:43:07.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27266" CreationDate="2014-12-24T05:43:03.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be the one in the diagram you linked:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000NW65U4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/D-Toplight-Rear-Light-Design-backlight/dp/B000NW65U4/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That one requires external power from a dynamo hub, though I have seen references online to a battery-powered version of the same light.  The same company, Busch &amp;amp; Müller, makes a few others with the same mounting system.  In general you can find these things by searching for &quot;European&quot; style taillights, as they are popular in that region (but not in the US).  Here's one that works on batteries: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0051WTS0A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/4D-Toplight-Permanent-Tail-Light/dp/B0051WTS0A/&lt;/a&gt; (the Senso model is similar but adds an auto on/off capability based on ambient light level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another that fits the same mounting holes but with a very different design (for use with a dynamo hub only): &lt;a href=&quot;http://supernova-lights.com/en/products/e3_tail_light2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://supernova-lights.com/en/products/e3_tail_light2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, some taillights have available mounting plates for 50mm rack mounts, such as this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3108.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3108.html&lt;/a&gt; or this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002P793U4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Eye-Tailight-Rack-Mount/dp/B002P793U4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastEditorUserId="1464" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T07:22:51.840" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T07:22:51.840" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-24T09:57:22.763" Score="2" ViewCount="4104" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time posting, hope I can get some suggestions on this weird issue I've noticed with my shifting. I have a fairly decent understanding of how to maintain gears myself, and have made quite a few attempts at trouble shooting this, so unless I've missed something it seems to be something beyond the obvious 'reindex, replace cable-housing, lube chain' sort of thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So basically, my 9-speed shifters which are a few years old, seem to only click through 8 speeds, both ways. This manifests in the chain always 'skipping' a cog on the 9-speed cassette no matter how I index, although I think the cog it skips varies depending on whether I'm shifting up or down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have recently replaced the chain, the cassette, the cables (lubed) AND the housing, so I am fairly certain it is none of these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The deraileur seems to be indexed correctly: transmission is quick and crisp and &lt;em&gt;and both extermes of the cassette can be reached when shifting through all the speeds&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have come off the bike on the the derailleur side before, but the fact both extremes can be reached seems to suggest a bent mount isn't the problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shifter seems to physically only click through 8 speeds, despite most definitely being 9 speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain is 9 speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all I know it could be a common problem, but not one I'm familiar with. Is there some sort of adjustment needed on the shifters themselves? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any informed suggestions greatly appearciated! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15825" LastActivityDate="2017-07-22T07:27:36.820" Title="Shimano Sora 9-speed shifters &quot;missing a speed&quot;" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27268" CreationDate="2014-12-24T12:51:40.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bent derailleur&lt;/a&gt; can still be a problem even if you can reach the extremes of the cassette -- since you said you don't &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; it is a problem, it sounds like you haven't actually checked it, so check it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt; has an excellent page on checking derailleur adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also said you replaced the cables + housing -- if these have been routed improperly, this can also affect shifting. Also, modern cables are not recommended to be lubed by their manufacturers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As PeteH said in the comments, try clicking the shifters to see if you can shift through the entire range without cable tension. Shifters do wear out over time and sometimes don't catch on the shifting pawls if they have worn out. If the shifter is indeed not hitting all the gears, I'd probably just live with it -- some people have some luck blasting the shifter with WD-40 if its just gumming preventing the thing from catching but taking apart a brifter, repairing it and putting it back together again is a non-trivial task. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T12:51:40.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27268" CreationDate="2014-12-24T14:46:25.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm kind of confused here. You say you can only click 8 times. On a 9 speed bike, there would only be 8 clicks for shifting.  Let's say you start on the largest gear, and we'll call that 1.  Clicking 1 time with bring you to gear 2. Clicking 2 times will bring you to 3. Clicking 3 times with bring you to 4. Continuing on with the pattern will bring you on to clicking 8 times to bring you to 9.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bike was skipping a gear somewhere in the middle, you would shift 7 times, and already be on the smallest gear, and shifting one more time would bring you nowhere, as you would already be at the bottom. The limit screw would keep it in it's place, and the cable would go a bit slack. Going up the cassette you would notice a problem where you still had 1 click left, but would be unable to move the shifter because you would be pushing against the limit screw.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T14:46:25.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27262" CreationDate="2014-12-24T14:49:44.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have hiked a lot while carrying our bikes. What I've found that works best is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go to the non drive side of the bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drop the non drive side pedal down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;left hand on the left fork lower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;right hand on the non drive side crank arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lift whole bike and place bottom tube behind your neck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bike is central on top of you and you can easily remove one or both hands whenever necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you don't get dirty because the drive side is away from you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To lift the bike, your hands should go to the two red spots:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GuvK8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16562/how-to-shoulder-a-bike&quot;&gt;How to shoulder a bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T14:49:44.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27282" CreationDate="2014-12-24T14:58:08.630" Score="6" ViewCount="26893" Body="&lt;p&gt;My LBS recommended cartridge hubs to me. Here are my doubts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as how I never ride in the rain or any such wet substances, I don't really need the &quot;completely sealed&quot; feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown says that if taken care of, the body of a loose-ball hub will last indefinitely. (not the balls and cones). So if you maintain your hub, you should be able to indefinitely avoid having to re-spoke your wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealed bottom brackets make sense, because it's easy to pull your cranks off and swap it out. But if you have a cartridge hub, when it wears out you will need to re-spoke your wheel. Am I right about that, or do cartridge hubs have a system for just replacing the bearings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is it possible that a cartridge hub would last as long as the rim? Then you would just replace the whole wheel once it started having problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2017-03-14T10:13:01.327" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T17:57:00.283" Title="Cartridge hubs vs loose-ball hubs" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27272" CreationDate="2014-12-24T17:40:00.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most hubs these days claim to be &quot;sealed&quot;.  This basically means that if you look the hub from the axle end you can't see the balls of the ball bearings, because there is, at least, a &quot;dust shield&quot; that leaves only a very narrow opening between rotating hub and fixed axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also &quot;cartridge&quot; hubs, which were the original sealed hubs popularized by Phil Woods, back when standard bearings had no dust shields and were pretty crappy.  These use a (theoretically) replaceable cartridge on each side of the hub, where the cartridge is an industrial bearing cartridge similar to what's used in electric motors (and similar to what's used in bottom-bracket cartridges).  However, replacing the cartridges requires special tools, and likely many bike shops would just give you a dumb look if you talked to them about replacing the cartridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these schemes are a significant improvement over the original open bearing style, since, not only do they keep most moisture out, they also keep out dust and dirt.  For the average rider, though, the cartridge scheme is probably not worthwhile, since it is not possible to simply rebuild the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T17:40:00.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27257" CreationDate="2014-12-24T19:50:25.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought 6 bikes in the last 5 years.  5 of those bikes have been Trek bikes. Not because I love the brand, but because the bike shop that I bought the bikes from tries really hard to make my wife happy.  Our LBS tries really hard to keep her on the road, and that is not an easy thing. she's 5'2&quot; with a long torso and short legs. Not exactly the easiest fit for road bikes and mountain bikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story, short.  We visited every single LBS in a 35 mile radius from our house and as soon as my wife tried one bike, or as soon as they saw her, we got turned away with nothing more than a &quot;sorry, we have no bikes that will fit your body type.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a last ditch effort, we visited what is now &quot;our&quot; LBS (the only one I visit now, four years later).  They told us about their extensive line of bikes and how they could find a bike for her.  Trek Skye 13&quot;.  Four bikes later (all Trek brand btw), I've become a bit of a Trek fanboy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the line of bikes as I understand them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 1-series and the Lexa series are parallel to each other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 1-series is non-gender specific, and the higher end 1.5 is just a little short of being in the Madone series.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lexa series is specifically dialed for women's bodies, with the higher end Lexa SLX just being short of being in the Silque series.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The silque and the Domane Series are also parallel to each other. These are made to balance speed and comfort.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The silque series is specific for women.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Domane series is non-gender specific.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Madone is their primary road bike.  Not much on comfort, it's all about the speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Emonda is the Madone series on a severe diet. Speed with as little weight as possible.  The Emonda series is not race legal, but unless you are a pro-cyclist, it doesn't matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this answers your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4691" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T19:50:25.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18975" CreationDate="2014-12-25T04:36:18.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed from using a pretty nice laptop pannier to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/bags/MTXOfficeBag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak Office&lt;/a&gt; bag about 2 years ago.  It was kinda life changing.  Suddenly my bike was well balanced and I felt more in control.  Until recently, I had been using an incredibly heavy System 76 laptop (6.8 lbs), so being able to center that weight was probably a little more important to me than the average person.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it was a big laptop, but I could still fit in a change of clothes without much of a problem.  There's not a ton of extra room in the bag, so you may need extra bags if you have lots of stuff to carry. I ended up getting some cheap small panniers so I could carry clothes, lunch and running gear if necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend you get the accompanying rack with the drop rails (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Racks/SuperTouristDXTubularRack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Super Tourist DX&lt;/a&gt;) so that you can add panniers if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I was surprised to see some lukewarm responses to this bag in this thread.  It could be bigger, but it's well made, very secure when mounted and makes for a way more comfortable, balanced ride than you get with panniers.  I've encouraged a couple of coworkers to get this bag and they've been happy with it as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15829" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T04:36:18.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4223" CreationDate="2014-12-25T14:44:12.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that tire weight will affect the amount of work you have to do. It's most noticeable when changing from worn to new tires, but I'm kind of regretting fitting 28s because my old 25s were lighter. You have to maintain the rotating inertia of your tires, so it's not just rolling resistance, but also tire and rim weight that will affect the effort you will have to expend to maintain speed. This higher inertia will also make your bike more stable and slower to turn in. Bigger tires basically allow you to be more comfortable. Taller sidewalls, more available flex, and you can run slightly lower pressure and still avoid flats. I'm a big guy and I don't think 28s are really necessary, but they will increase the rigor of your workout, which is why I'm leaving them on. If you want to breeze quickly through your commute, you'll be fine with smaller tires&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15831" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T14:44:12.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-25T15:24:53.443" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a trainer but my primary concern is being able to consistently improve my power output.  To do this I need a way to measure my output consistently - I don't care what the actual power output is, only that I'm consistently increasing it.  Given the linear speed/power curve of a mag trainer I would expect that as long as I leave the resistance setting alone my velocity is a good proxy for my power output.  I expect that with a fluid trainer that will be much harder to do because at the margin tiny differences in speed translate to much larger differences in power output.  Am I right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15820" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T22:00:01.460" Title="Which are better for reproducible power output: Mag- or Fluid-trainers?" Tags="&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-25T18:10:58.450" Score="3" ViewCount="2147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at replacing the brake levers on an older road bike and was wondering if the cable pull ratio for the old Dia Compe center pull brakes pictured below is compatible with new road brake lever like Tiagra or Cane Creek SCR-5. Also do these brake levers fit the old thinner drop bars seen on older bikes? I will eventually be replacing the brakes as well but was hoping I don't have to replace everything at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMTOt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T22:42:10.693" Title="Brake levers for Dia Compe centre pull brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27280" CreationDate="2014-12-25T18:29:31.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used Cane Creek levers with old MAFAC racers which are pretty similar. However,&#xA;the MAFACs allow you to adjust the length of the cross cable which allows you to tune the brake force. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my understanding that all road caliper brakes use roughly the same cable pull so that all &quot;standard&quot; caliper levers are interchangeable. Where you need to be concerned about the cable pull is caliper vs V-brake levers. This question covers&#xA;that difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4863/direct-pull-v-brake-vs-center-pull-cantilevers-pros-and-cons&quot;&gt;Direct Pull (V-Brake) vs. Center Pull Cantilevers (pros and cons)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always Sheldon Browns site contains lot's of useful information for older bike&#xA;technologies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T22:42:10.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27272" CreationDate="2014-12-25T18:46:33.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tools are relatively expensive compared to cone wrenches, but all cartridge bearings can be replaced if needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id176.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id176.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need both a puller and a press of some kind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cartridge bearings last a very long time with no maintenance at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since installing fancy ceramic bearings is part of high end road cycling these days I would think most competent shops would have the tools and knowledge to replace a cartridge bearing. But if you don't ride in the rain or power wash your bike, it's unlikely you'll ever need to replace them during the life time of a &#xA;single rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For road bike wheels, I don't have preference either way. It really depends whether you have the tools, skills and time to keep a traditional cone and ball hub working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T18:46:33.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27278" CreationDate="2014-12-25T22:00:01.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power-speed curve of trainers are subject to variations during a ride and from ride to ride depending on various factors including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat build up in the resistance unit and tyre&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyre pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;press on force of the roller against the tyre&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the tyre used, and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wear and tear of the unit. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of course use a direct drive rather than a roller pressed against the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of these things can and do affect the relationship between wheel speed and power demand. Some changes occur over minutes, and some occur over weeks, months and years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's more important than the shape of the resistance curve is having a trainer which provides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a modestly realistic ride feel, which generally comes from having a trainer with higher inertial load (heavier/larger flywheel and/or one that rotates more quickly). Mag trainers often don't provide a realistic feel and as a result your ability to sustain power &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be compromised. Everyone is different of course but in my experience I was able to hold far high power output on a quality high inertia trainer than I ever could on a low inertia mag resistance unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;consistently reproducible resistance from ride to ride, IOW the set up required for resistance to be consistent from day to day is easy to replicate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not subject to much heat based drift in resistance once an initial &quot;warm-up&quot; period has settled the trainer/tyre, and the warm up period is not long (e.g. 10-minutes). Some units are much better than others and some the resistance will increase with heat, others will decrease with heat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;has a sufficient range of resistance load for your personal fitness and training needs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are of course a whole range of other factors to consider with trainers (cost, robustness, ease of use, service and support, portability, size, weight, stability, noise, compatibility with your bikes, use with online and other software training aids etc etc) so I'm just talking about those relating to the nature of the resistance and ride feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To measure power output consistently though, you'd really need a good power meter. If you do have a good power meter, then of course the need for day to day consistency of the trainer power curve lessens somewhat as you'll have a better means to assess actual load. Even so, good ride feel is important and may make a difference to the power you are able to sustain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a reasonably predictable resistance trainer, then it will suffice for the purpose of assessing larger changes in fitness, but as fitness gains become more marginal (they do eventually), then the error in measurement means this method will no longer be suitable, and you'd need a better means of tracking fitness changes if that was important to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't specifically comment on individual trainers, but there are definitely trainers that are far more predictable in their resistance than others and also provide for a realistic ride feel. Examples of good trainers I am aware of include the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine and the old Lemond Revolution but there are no doubt others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the training you do doesn't need to be so precise wrt intensity, as being at the right overall level matters far more than being at a precise wattage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, while some trainer resistance curves are more linear and others are more curvilinear, I suspect that over narrow wattage bands, the curvature is not so high as to enable greater precision beyond those error factors I've mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T22:00:01.460" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4223" CreationDate="2014-12-26T01:05:22.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using 23mm tires on commuter for several years and feeling excellent, don't see any need to increase the size. Always commuting on asphalt only. Very seldom getting out on gravel and it is not that bad too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used Kenda, Panaracer, Michelin (Pro3 and Pro4) and Continental (4000). Michelin remain the distant favourite among all - the most sticky and comfortable tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the last 5 years got only two flats. The first one was on Kenda tires - they were not good anyway, and the second on Panaracer, because tires were work out to the point of exposing large portions of wireframe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T01:05:22.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19110" CreationDate="2014-12-26T02:45:31.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that polishing paste like Mother's Magnesium and Aluminum should be your first choice. If the result is not good enough, at least you will be sure that you didn't do any damage to the surface like you can do with wrong sand paper or metal wool. I would use sanding of any kind only when some scraping of the surface is necessary, to remove nicks and dents for example.&#xA;Last time I used bathroom cleaner Comet first which made the whole surface evenly gray, light and clean, I guess oxidation free. It was very matte but very evenly. Then I used Mother's Mag and it became shiny, not luster but nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14248" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T02:45:31.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21488" CreationDate="2014-12-26T03:04:45.543" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer will not answer your question but will give some light on working around it. Instead of replacing the cog or messing around with chain tension you can adjust the length of your chain just right by using one of online chain length calculators and possibly a half link. This is what I did with my vertical dropouts modern frame converted to single speed. No tensioner was used and the chain length is perfect, although I had to add a half link. This is my favorite web site calculator which gives you a graphic view of how far from the perfect length you are and if it's on a tight or loose side, and more options if half link is being used: &lt;a href=&quot;http://eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14248" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T03:04:45.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27272" CreationDate="2014-12-26T03:21:46.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both kinds of bearings are equally good for wheel hubs. Because of ease of replacing traditional loose balls bearing with standard tools, I would always go with those but recently I've got a set of new wheels with cartridge bearings only because I liked the wheels (and the price) and because I'm curious about how they will hold. Considering the length of time both kinds of bearings will last, the cost of hiring a professional to rebuilt them (if needed) is irrelevant. I like restoring vintage bikes and never had to discard a wheel because of the problem with loose balls bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14248" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T03:21:46.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26019" CreationDate="2014-12-26T04:05:34.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a casual biker and casual marathon runner. When I need to improve my biking fitness, I apply the principles from marathon training. Biking is very similar to running and the same fitness components are important. So I pick a typical marathon training schedule, convert distance into time and try to do it as hard as I can, on a bike instead of feet. Typically it's 30-50-30 minutes Tue-Wed-Thu then 50-80 min Sat-Sun the first week, and it keeps increasing about 10% a week. There is many schedules online. Try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14248" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T04:05:34.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24690" CreationDate="2014-12-26T04:59:24.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All brake calipers have some spread limit. I don't see these to be different. When you're describing dead cable not affecting this distance, you kind of answer your own question. Most calipers stop at some point when spread apart. If you want to go beyond that limit, maybe different brakes will work better for you. The horseshoe is not affecting this, plus it can be removed without affecting functionality of the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14248" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T04:59:24.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24691" CreationDate="2014-12-26T05:28:24.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All freewheel hubs have the same thread and are compatible with single, 5, 6, 7 and maybe some 8 speed freewheels. Position of the hub is set by dishing of the wheel and spacers on the axle. It's an interesting question. But I think that you should worry more about the rear spacing. 6 speed modern freewheel is not considered to be wide comparing to ones with more cogs. I wouldn't worry about this, just in case stay away from track hubs which are designed for single speed freewheels. I'm upgrading a 1980's ten speed bike now by replacing old 5 speed freewheel with 7 speeds to match new indexed 7 speed shifter. Previously I put 8 speed freewheel on that wheel but I had to add spacers to spread the seat stays a bit. It worked with original friction shifter but I don't like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14248" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T05:28:24.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24456" CreationDate="2014-12-26T05:42:01.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In US it would be Magna o Huffy, a 20 years old department store bike made in Taiwan with no value today. For sure it's not a real brand bike. Indestructible but butt ugly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14248" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T05:42:01.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23388" CreationDate="2014-12-26T05:55:10.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't feel it with your hands, maybe you should look at the pedal. One of my pedals does similar thing. When a crank was getting loose on one of my bikes it was felt with hands too, and when coasting. Also, it may be bent chain ring or broken tooth on a chain ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14248" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T05:55:10.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27134" CreationDate="2014-12-26T06:33:30.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a very nice bike. You can't limit yourself, too much fun, just ride the whole distance and you'll see how you feel. Rest as long as needed and do it again. Then again and again. No one can tell you if you can't predict yourself what's too much for you. Try the whole thing first to have a good idea what is it. Seven miles is nothing for a bike with multiple speeds. Everything else like clothes, helmet, spare tubes, etc. will come later. Take with you a good U-lock so you can lock your bike outside while you sit in a pub waiting for the rain to stop :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14248" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T06:33:30.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18311" CreationDate="2014-12-26T20:40:19.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure cables are properly attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that the housing has ferrules on each end.&#xA;If they don't , they will start to &quot;cave in&quot; to the inside of the gear lever switch mechanism and you will feel as the cable gets play when its not exactly that the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15835" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2014-12-27T18:54:13.627" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T18:54:13.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19077" CreationDate="2014-12-27T02:38:02.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could sew your own patches on using canvas and high-strength thread. They even sell kevlar thread that's useful for this type of thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were my panniers and I prefer strong-but-ugly, then I would cut up an old inner tube and use those as my patch materials. There's a very strong contact cement called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hannarubbercompany.com/Adhesives_PLIOBOND.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pliobond&lt;/a&gt; that you can use to glue pretty much any flexible material to another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even make your patches from leather (still using Pliobond) or canvas (ditto). I've bonded leather and rubber to steel/aluminum using Pliobond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can lame out and go to your local outdoor store that sells a broad variety of patch materials for backpacks and tents: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/c/gear-repair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/c/gear-repair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many backpackers, for example, use &quot;Shoe Goo&quot; to not only repair their shoes (you can craft new soles with it) but also patch rather large holes in their backpacks. Sugru is also useful for this type of repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T15:44:30.977" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T15:44:30.977" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27272" CreationDate="2014-12-27T20:28:52.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many trailers for Vehicles / ATVS use an &quot;open bearing&quot; design. This enables a person to do maintenance on them without completely replacing them out.  This is cost effective at this size / scale but when it comes to a bicycle... I would highly suggest you stick with sealed bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15838" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T20:28:52.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-28T06:45:47.993" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am checking out panniers.  I'd like to find something that would be waterproof, suitable to carry groceries in, but also to carry art supplies in on occasion.  An 11X14 pad of paper, a water bottle or two, and some paints.  How/where can I find this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15840" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T11:24:49.790" Title="Specialty Panniers" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-12-28T23:50:54.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27300" CreationDate="2014-12-28T09:32:48.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ortlieb  Office has the dimensions you are looking for without being enormous.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortleib.com/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=officebag_bnw&amp;amp;biketoy=cityoffice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ortlieb  Office&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T11:24:49.790" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T11:24:49.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21574" CreationDate="2014-12-28T10:02:28.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience active GPS trackers are not very suitable to protect your bike at the current technology level. However they are suitable if you are more interested to catch the thief rather than as 'insurance'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a general GPS tracker has a good price tag (around 20 GBP) these bike-specific ones seem to be way more expensive. So they are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-increasing the value of what is stolen (bc it gets stolen with it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-increasing the weight you carry around for any acceptable battery life. But expensive bikes are expensive largely because they are light (for road practical use)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;tend to require often recharging every few days so most users will stop attending to their tracker soon before their bike might get stolen&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;need configuration with cell phone providers data plans are recharging at least each year with no use.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;they have to be covert otherwise the thief will take them out but the reason security works is usually because the thiefs know it is there so they are averted from stealing in the first place&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think new technology devices will be coming out soon that will make their daily usage more effective. Until then they are great for increasing the probability of catching a thief (priceless?) in case your bike gets stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15842" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T10:02:28.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27305" CreationDate="2014-12-28T14:59:41.883" Score="2" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake pads on my bike have worn out, so I ordered a new set online, and after I spent a lot of time trying to adjust them, I noticed it won't work as they're not long enough to grip the rim when braking. I'm looking up online, and I can't seem to find anything without those bits and bolts just with a plain long-enough bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What name/keyword shall I look up to find what I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Original Brakes:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uOVwG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Original Brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The New Brake With Bolts That's Short:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3JgjR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The New Brake With Bolts That&amp;#39;s Short&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The New Brake Without Bolt Which Is Not Safe Enough:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8QKYD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The New Brake Without Bolt Which Is Not Safe Enough&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Googling &quot;cantilever&quot; was helpful as @mikes mentioned. They seem to be 70mm pads. Also here's another picture from the pads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2f4MI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12815" LastEditorUserId="12815" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T11:52:14.560" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T11:52:14.560" Title="What Type of Brake Pads Should I Look For?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27304" CreationDate="2014-12-28T15:20:19.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you search cantilever brake parts you should find what you need. They are sometimes referred to as threadless  post brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T15:20:19.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-28T20:28:13.730" Score="2" ViewCount="44138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gotten my self my first mountain bike, along with a Bike computer. This needs to be setup, but im really not sure how i do this. The wheel size of the bike is a 27,5 inches. The bike computer is a Bontrager Trip 100, that comes with the following wheel settings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700:23, 700:25, 700:28, 700:32, 700:35, 700:38, 29:2.1, 29:2.2, 26:1.5, 26:1.9, 26:2.0, 26:2.1, 26:2.2, 26:2.3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing is what setting to enter on the computer, but im also unsure about where i should place the sensor and receiver on the wheel. I believe it must matter if i place the sensor and receiver near the center of the wheel, or if i place it need the edge.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T19:10:05.967" Title="Bike computer wheel size setup" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27307" CreationDate="2014-12-28T21:01:11.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at page 23 and 24 of the manual and follow the directions for measuring tire rollout. Measure your front tire and select the wheel size on the chart that has the closest measurement to your tire. There can be a big difference in the circumference of different brand/model tires even if the stated size is the same. Measurement of the actual tire circumference will give you the most accurate readings. As far as placement it makes no difference. As long as the magnet on the spoke triggers the pick-up it will count revolutions. The computer does the calculations to convert the data to mph, distance etc. My preference is to mount it as close to the axle as possible. On a mountain bike this keeps it out of the mud and away from branches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T21:01:11.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27307" CreationDate="2014-12-28T21:03:46.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 27.5&quot; wheel is a 650b wheel, which is not listed. Your bike computer should have a way to do calibrations the old fashioned way -- by rolling the bike a known distance (typically something like ~10 meters) after mounting the magnet+sensor and from this, it will calculate the necessary parameters for the wheel size. If you don't have that ability, you should pick the closest wheel circumference you can -- note that the sensor will only pickup the wheel per revolution regardless of where it is placed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for placing the sensor, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.bontrager.com/owners_manuals/computers/Trip_wireless_computer_USEN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt;(*) for the trip 100 says that the magnet needs to come within 3-5 mm of the sensor. This is typically done closer to the brakes than closer to the hub on a road bike, but you may need to go further down in order to get the magnet to get within that range on a mountain bike (most 650b bikes sold these days, esp. ones marketed as 27.5&quot; are mountain bikes, as 650b road bikes are often marketed as 650b, so I'm assuming you have a mountain bike). If you're within this range, the sensor mount is good. If it isn't, move it to that range. See the manual for pictures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) I think this is only the quick-setup, there should be a more useful manual somewhere, like in the box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T21:03:46.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6019" CreationDate="2014-12-29T03:24:04.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a Revo Lights owner I like them a lot as a second light source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the light is lower to the ground they do a better job of lighting up the pavement immediately in front of you. For being seen, they're much more visible than many of the headlights and tail lights I see on other bikes out at night.  Especially from the side, when you're at a stop sign or light. But even from the front and the back the spread of the persistence-of-vision effect and the light spill onto the pavement makes it easier for drivers to see you than when using point light sources. [When driving I appreciate night riders that have multiple flashing rear lights instead of a single solid rear light. The sooner I can tell &quot;that's a bike&quot; the happier we all are.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've still kept my original headlight and tail light on my bike.  The headlight I've got does a better job of lighting up the pavement farther down the road, which helps on roads with sparse streetlights and/or trees that block them. And the more rear lights you have the better in my book. If any battery dies mid-ride I've got a backup.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I absolutely had to pick one or the other I'd pick the Revo Lights. They do a fine job lighting the road.  They make it easier to be seen. Their novelty alone makes folks pay more attention. It absolutely positively has nothing to do with being impressionable when Tron came out (ahem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I started with Revo Lights, I'd probably still get a second headlight to shine a little farther down dark roads. The better to see potholes and unlit night joggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15853" LastEditorUserId="15853" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T03:40:18.437" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T03:40:18.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3390" CreationDate="2014-12-29T07:51:27.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have exactly that trailer, which I've converted for heavy cargo. I removed the upper frame, then I put a 2 foot wide by 4 foot long piece of 3/8 inch plywood across the remaining frame -  attached in the former frame holes in the tubing with four bolts. Cut mine down to the stick out about a foot aft.&#xA;The trailer is not going to be level with the hitch that was on it. Don't like to use the axle bolt in any case, so I added an extension to the rear frame which is lower, and that leveled the trailer. You mileage may vary. I have hauled 100 lbs without issues. Grocery bags go in a box strapped to the bed, bulky items are shrink wrapped down.Use bungie cord as needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - There are springs with buttons which hold the width of the frame. One of mine needed to be re-bent, as it was pushed in. I still added a turn of duct tape to set the frame width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details: drilled a small hole for a flag carrier in the back, then cut the corners off for a more rounded tail. I can fold the tongue back and remove the wheels for flat storage - very useful feature! I have taken this inside a bus, and biked the load home. Someday in the future, I may make a reduced camping version by putting in a big plastic cooler, replacing the plywood which will make the trailer narrower and shorter. And I painted the plywood red for better visibility - I'm in an urban area, so cars... need I say more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15854" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T07:51:27.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25304" CreationDate="2014-12-29T12:29:02.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you did not have a fall and it was working well in the recent past &lt;strong&gt;and it does shift but not correctly then&lt;/strong&gt; you just have to adjust the tension on the cables. What you are describing seems normal some adjustments on your bike are due after some use. If adjustments cannot fix I would then check the cable condition and derailleur function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cables needs to have a certain strech so it can move the derailleur far enough to reach all gears. And yes it is also not suprising that the strech changes when a rider is on the bike, your weight and motion streches the frame and cables and they may behave differently especially if not well tuned or are too old. You more likely just have to adjust - again, unless something out of the ordinary occured which is not mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bikes have a fine adjuster which can adjust the tension by just turning a knob (barrel adjuster) without tools even while you are on the road. If this is not enough just adjust the cable tension with tools. Then try all your gears to make sure all shift fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If your rear does not shift at all&lt;/strong&gt; then this is an indication that your cables are getting stopped or impeded somewhere when the rider is on the bike. Run visually the cables from your shifter up to your rear derailleur and find where their movement seems impeded (especially if you have rear suspension have someone sit on the bike when you do that). For example some cable guides or ferrules may have been worn out on one end and when someone sits the cable runs through that part and gets impeded by the wear. If you cannot find the wear run full new cable set (should be fairly inexpensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15842" LastEditorUserId="15842" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T09:37:24.617" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T09:37:24.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6050" CreationDate="2014-12-29T13:53:13.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem on my bike and used shims. But I'm pretty sure they weren't &quot;Specialized&quot; branded ones. I was told they were supposed to come with the brifters but most bike shops don't put them on.  Check with the bike shop you got the bike at to see if they have some lying around and perhaps you can get them for free. I agree that it's kind of odd that there's no reach adjustment, and only 1 size of brifters.  My hands aren't that small. I would wonder how a woman with small hands would be able to reliably reach the brake levers at all, give how little room there is for adjustment.  Biking in cold weather with gloves adds even more complication to the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T13:53:13.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27307" CreationDate="2014-12-29T21:24:56.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.evanscycles.com/answers/0924/product/ec059918/bontrager-trip-100-computer-questions-answers/questions.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, the following information is given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use a roll out method ie measure circumference with a mark on the tyre&#xA;  and roll forward one exact revolution measure with a tape measure the&#xA;  distance covered preferably sat on bike, then put dimension into the&#xA;  custom setting for wheel size, youtube shows a good example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the manual linked to by @Batman, it looks like you can enter a custom wheel size after you have clicked through all the predefined wheel sizes. Based on the fact that it's 4 digits, the custom wheel size is most likely in mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of calculating the circumference, is to take wheel diameter (total distance across, and multiply by pi (3.14).  If you don't have any measuring device and want something reasonably close, take the bead seat diameter, for 650B, this is 584mm, add in 2 times the tire size. Assuming you have 2 inch tires, that's 50.8 mm. So we end up with 584 + 2 * 50.8 = 685.6 mm diameter, and when multiplying by pi gives us a circumference of 2152.8 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T21:24:56.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27304" CreationDate="2014-12-29T23:57:16.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, you're best bet is to go to a bike shop and ask for some help.  They'll be happy to help you out and teach you what you need to know.  That being said, if you don't want to or can't make it to a shop, here's my two cents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those don't look like cantilever brakes to me - they look like linear pull (or V-Brakes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mikes' answer is correct in pointing out that you need the ones without threads on the posts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this will probably work: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FSSMNO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Aztec-Aztec2-Bicycle-Brake-Cantilever/dp/B000FSSMNO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T23:57:16.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-30T09:08:02.870" Score="0" ViewCount="3105" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of a sudden, I desperately need those, but I'm failing to find it on ebay or anywhere else. Maybe I call them wrong? Do they have a specific title or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for help guys, you're the best!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: The frame is made of steel not carbon (as shown on the image below). It's a simple steel frame that has holes for internal cable routing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ocbts.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cable stops for inside the frame routing&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastEditorUserId="6459" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T13:10:39.987" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T13:47:25.810" Title="Cable Stop For Internal Cable Routing" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;cable-routing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27324" CreationDate="2014-12-30T10:56:32.210" Score="2" ViewCount="1306" Body="&lt;p&gt;what type of ride should I choose? I own &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.snapdeal.com/product/hero-kross-26t-k10-multi/1556197024&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;kross k10&lt;/a&gt; bike. Currently I am doing 7.7 km lap with combination of slow-fast-slow (40%-20%-40%) of total path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing it correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15753" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T12:17:22.683" Title="best ride to burn tummy fat" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27381" CreationDate="2014-12-30T11:01:17.413" Score="2" ViewCount="1682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering swapping the inner ring on my SLX double chainset (M665) from 22T to 28T.  I noticed that the newer M675 has a 40/28 option, so I figured that the 28T chainring from this set-up would work well on my slightly older chainset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/EV/bikecomponents/FC/EV-FC-M675-3397_v1_m56577569830801180.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano schematic&lt;/a&gt; for the M675 chainset suggests that the chainrings aren't backwards compatible with M665.  But I can't see how a flat inside ring with no pick-up points machined into it &lt;strong&gt;wouldn't&lt;/strong&gt; be compatible, providing the bolt patterns match up (which they do, I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I missed something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="452" LastEditorUserId="452" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T11:09:16.270" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T12:25:03.887" Title="SLX chainring compatibility" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-30T11:38:52.927" Score="0" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2 month old Vodoo Bizango from Halfords in the UK. I have had this problem about 2 weeks into having the bike where if I'm on the highest gear and want to do sprints (standing on the pedals) the chain will choke/make a churning noise and then the pedals will just fly forwards, I have not been able to replicate the same thing when I turn the bike upside and lay its on it's seat. This caused one of my bike chains to snap, supposedly they replaced the derailer and the chain but I'm still having the same problem. It's now started to creep to lower gears now when I'm climbing up hills too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a complete novice at bikes and the mechanics but I need this sorting, it's my main mode of transports especially to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All help is appreciated, thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15863" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T18:41:28.190" Title="Chain is choking and pedals fly forwards when going up hill or standing on the bike pedals" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27321" CreationDate="2014-12-30T11:52:25.007" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say &quot;to burn tummy fat&quot;, presumable you're talking about weight loss and general toning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What worked for me was a short, 10-minute / 2-point-something km commute, twice a day, five days a week, over two or three years. Because the ride was so short I was able to give pretty much 100% for the whole ride, with natural stops at red lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went from maybe 110kg down to about 80kg in this time. It was kinda counter-intuitive - in that if you just think about calories I burned during the ride, the shortness of the ride should not have made too much difference. But I lost weight. I'm now lighter still, but that loss has happened over a far longer period and is more regulated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I knew I was losing weight was by clothes (including weird stuff like shoes, hats and my wedding ring) becoming looser. I did not weigh myself at first - I do these days and with hindsight I should have got some scales sooner. Without measurement, it is certainly possible to convince yourself that nothing you are doing is making any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for my money, you need some degree of intensity there. I'm not sure that cycling anywhere without much effort (which I suspect is what you mean when you say &quot;slow&quot;) will do much to help weight loss. But by the same token you don't necessarily need to be in the saddle for hours. Also it is a gradual effect and takes time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of all that, if you want to specifically develop tummy muscles, I'd recommend some other form of training as well. Cycling is great for aerobic exercise and for developing your legs, but leaves something to be desired as regards upper body muscles. Some professional cyclists, for example, will work with weights a couple of times a week, especially in the off-season, to keep themselves at peak fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T21:18:04.980" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T21:18:04.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27320" CreationDate="2014-12-30T13:47:25.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As all the comments have stated most appear to be brand/ model specific. Since it is an older frame it is possible that it didn't have them. Some older frames snaked the entire cable housing thru the frame. The stop was on the component, (brake, derailleur or frame mounted cable stop). If you search for custom bike frames builders you may find some local sources. If you don't have your heart set on internal cables, you can use bolt on frame mounted stops. You will need to measure the frame tube diameter and figure out if you need single, double or triple stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T13:47:25.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27334" CreationDate="2014-12-30T15:33:25.737" Score="2" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it is warm outside my front derailleur works just fine. But when it gets colder (40F) the lever on the handle bar does not catch and I can move it without any resistance the whole way without the derailleur shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: The wire is not moving and the shifter is a Shimano Deore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what can cause that and how to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10483" LastEditorUserId="10483" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T17:08:30.897" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T17:08:30.897" Title="Why does my front derailleur not work when it is cold?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27323" CreationDate="2014-12-30T17:43:39.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the problem might be that your freewheel isn't freewheeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T17:43:39.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1614" CreationDate="2014-12-30T17:47:33.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RTP area of North Carolina, USA&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the buses that I've seen in RTP area of North Carolina seem to have them.  I've carried my bike on the Raleigh Durham Express bus several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T17:47:33.157" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-12-30T17:47:33.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24691" CreationDate="2014-12-30T18:32:16.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;6 speed spacing is 126mm wide measured from the outside of the locknuts.  It's easiest to measure with calipers.  However, you can add or remove spacers and possibly install a longer or shorter axle to get that spacing.  I bought Campagnolo hubs &quot;back in the day&quot; that came as 6 speed hubs and eventually ran them with 8 speed freewheels, using longer axles and additional spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T18:32:16.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27321" CreationDate="2014-12-30T18:37:42.757" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't really burn &quot;tummy fat.&quot;  Your body has an order that it will store fat in and it will lose fat in the reverse order.  You can lose bodyfat, but it goes away in the reverse order that you put it on.  You can make it appear that you've proportionally lost more weight in your tummy by building up the muscles there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T18:37:42.757" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24087" CreationDate="2014-12-30T18:41:39.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well you won't be able to bleed your brakes for one thing.  You can buy bleeder screws at auto parts stores.  I've never bought one, but 6 mm sounds like a normal size.  I'd check there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T18:41:39.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27323" CreationDate="2014-12-30T18:47:09.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like the chain is jumping on cassette  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the chain and cassette wear they just don't grip each other as well.&#xA;Under higher force the chain can jump.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will typically start in the higher gears as you have less teeth engaged.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in 4th 99% of the time it might start in 4th just because it is the most worn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare your cassette to a picture of a new one. &#xA;It the teeth are sharp and the dip worn long you need a new cassette.&#xA;And you should replace the chain when you replace the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=worn%20cassette%20bike&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1400&amp;amp;bih=989&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;imgil=dJg6_wwd2MKbuM%253A%253BoYCpNkPkPid0dM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.bikediy.co.uk%25252Fmaintenance%25252Fworn-bike-cassette-207.htm&amp;amp;source=iu&amp;amp;pf=m&amp;amp;fir=dJg6_wwd2MKbuM%253A%252CoYCpNkPkPid0dM%252C_&amp;amp;usg=__4nuloUDonDwsstOgoPY0veNkFUY%3D&amp;amp;ved=0CCcQyjc&amp;amp;ei=rPSiVIrlGsebgwTH8YCwBA#facrc=_&amp;amp;imgdii=_&amp;amp;imgrc=dJg6_wwd2MKbuM%253A%3BoYCpNkPkPid0dM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.bikediy.co.uk%252Fimages%252Fbicycle-information%252Fcassette-pictures%252Fworn-bicycle-cassette.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.bikediy.co.uk%252Fmaintenance%252Fworn-bike-cassette-207.htm%3B484%3B337&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;worn cassette&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should not wear that much in two months but something to check.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another cause could be slack in the chain or chain not as tight.&#xA;In the highest gear you let out the most chain so the derailleur might not be pulling the slack out of the chain as effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T19:08:58.690" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T19:08:58.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25525" CreationDate="2014-12-30T18:49:25.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the bike manufacturers do it for a while until they get enough brand recognition.  Then they stop for a while to save money, until their brand recognition drops off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T18:49:25.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27326" CreationDate="2014-12-30T19:40:50.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had bike with RX100 components where the grease in the brifters dried up and they would not catch as you have described. Its possible the grease in yous is soft enough at warmer temperatures for them to work, but once it cools down, it thickens.  There is an earlier post &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10054/disassembling-shimano-integrated-gear-shifters-brifters/10062#10062&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on how to address it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T19:40:50.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27321" CreationDate="2014-12-30T20:05:55.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll second Eric's answer, but with a little more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way to exercise that will produce &quot;spot removal&quot; of fat. The only way to do that is via liposuction. Each person's body will deposit fat differently. For instance, my body starts with deposits on my lower back, then on my belly, and then my upper arms and face. Other people start on their belly or upper arms. If you reduce or increase your body fat percentage slowly over time, you can easily observe the pattern your body uses. You can also see it in videos of the morbidly obese, who have massive variety in how their fat gets stored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to lose tummy fat, the best bike ride is the one that burns the most calories, since (provided you don't eat to make up for the lost energy) this will cause the burning of fat. Energy expenditure is just time * intensity, and there are lots of good calculators for this floating around online. For the untrained cyclist, I think they're pretty accurate (trained cyclists can be more efficient).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short, hard rides are probably a good choice if you want to lose weight, because they take less time per calorie spent. 60 minutes as fast as you can maintain it is a good choice, because it's a nice length of time where you shouldn't need a snack, even at maximum effort. At first you may not be able to go fast if you lack cardiovascular strength, but even at a walking-level effort you should be able to cover about 12-15km in that time, about twice the distance you're doing now. For a typical person, this would burn maybe 500 kcals. Then just work on going faster (and therefore further) each time you go. Doing that level of exercise daily should result in the loss of a 1lb of fat/week, provided you don't eat more to make up for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T20:05:55.707" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27326" CreationDate="2014-12-30T20:27:43.550" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem before (recently), and it was solved with a thorough cleaning and then re-oiling of the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T20:27:43.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27326" CreationDate="2014-12-31T04:31:15.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've rebuilt my Campy Ergo Power brifters and understand how they work internally, but you don't say what kind of shifters you have so I can only speculate.  There's probably some kind of mechanical coupling between the lever that you push on with your finger and the piece that the cable is actually threaded through.  This coupling is probably worn out or (hopefully) needs to be tightened.  Due to different rates of thermal expansion, this coupling isn't engaging when things get cold.  This is assuming you're riding a bike with trigger style shifters or brifters, some kind of shifter where the lever you push returns to the neutral position after each shift.  If you tell me you have downtube shifters it would make no sense unless you're riding a 162 cm Aluminum frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T04:31:15.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-31T07:01:25.850" Score="1" ViewCount="2201" Body="&lt;p&gt;as i put in my title my fox rear shocks mode adjuster and rebound adjuster has popped out and exposed a little metal ball, I can no more adjust my rear shock but don't know why this has happened. &#xA;Can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15870" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T21:50:51.567" Title="why has my fox rear shocks adjusting lever popped out?" Tags="&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27342" CreationDate="2014-12-31T19:47:26.763" Score="1" ViewCount="6249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 700 x 38c wheels on my bike. While reading online I found that wider tyres have lower rolling resistance at the same inflation pressure than narrower tyres but they will be a little heavier and will offer more aerodynamic drag. I am not bothered about the weight because it won't make much difference if I am riding mostly on flat ground --  aerodynamic drag and rolling resistance drag are far greater sources of drag than that caused by the direct increase in weight of the tyre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that, I am not sure which will perform better on the road. My online research shows that wider is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the other factors of a wheel (like untrue wheel) that contribute to performance of a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T21:40:05.457" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T23:14:40.750" Title="How does a bicycle tyre and wheel affect its performace and speed?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27338" CreationDate="2014-12-31T20:33:50.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll assume that your adjustor knob looks like this: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hmvtT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look closelly to that image, over the &quot;2&quot; you'll see a triangle. Over the triangle you'll see a tiny hole. In that hole there is an alen bolt, (maybe 1mm or 1.5mm) which retains the knob in its place. That bolt must have been lose so the knob fell. The metal ball is just there to provide the click sound and feel for the compression or rebound adjustor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, fully undo the bolt, place the knob in it's place, tighten the bolt (not very much), and you are good to go. Test by rotating both directions and expect to hear and feel the clicks. Make sure you return the settings to their original position. If unsure, consult with someone who knows, your LBS, or ask here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This exact mechanism exists in almost all compression and rebound knobs in common suspensions. e.g &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kp056.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; and &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HRIFK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T21:50:51.567" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T21:50:51.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27340" CreationDate="2014-12-31T22:08:19.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general answer is &quot;it depends&quot;. Certainly, weight reductions help increasing speed, but improving the rider's strength and good bike fitting will go much further for improving performance than tire faffery. (Obviously, for professional racers, this advice doesn't apply - cutting grams and everything is part of what they need to do to win).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wider tires should be run at lower pressures than narrower tires. It is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;true&lt;/a&gt; that rolling resistance drops with pressure increases and for similar tires of different widths at the same pressure the wider will have lower rolling resistance (but this is moot by the prior sentence). Note the word &quot;similar&quot; - a knobby tire of the same width will have higher rolling resistance than a slick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wider tires can better absorb bumps and what not, so they can increase control giving net better performance in the real world. However, as you see on many road race bikes designed for purely nice pavement, thin tires are normally spec'd. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for aerodynamic drag, the paper &quot;Aerodynamic Characteristics of Low-Drag Bicycle Wheels&quot;, Aeronautical J., Vol. 99, No. 983, Mar. 1995, pp.109-120 (summarized &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hostsrv.com/WheelsConcept_Disc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) says ~10-15% of the drag is due to wheels, and by switching wheels you can get net 2-3% improvement. This is tiny, especially when you look at how much fancy aerodynamic wheels cost (and their low durability). For someone who is not racing, its almost surely better to put the money you might spend on a fancy aero wheel into having a durable wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to the reality of the situation: A wider tire is going to give you better ride quality and you can get very good rolling resistance by picking a smooth tire for road use. You have to balance durability of the tire and the wheel if you choose to do improvements here. For most people who are not in race situations, pick a decently wide tire, play with the tire pressures so you get a good ride and low rolling resistance and move on with your life. In theory, depending on the terrain, you might be able to go faster with a narrower higher pressure tire, but the possible ride and control effects may hurt you in net. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T22:08:19.163" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27405" CreationDate="2014-12-31T23:13:27.420" Score="5" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at expedition bikes and I've noticed on some bikes I've seen that they have a lot of headset spacers such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oxfordbikeworks.co.uk/models/overview/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.oxfordbikeworks.co.uk/models/overview/&lt;/a&gt; and thorn cycles in particular. Why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T14:02:29.240" Title="Why so many headset spacers on some expedition bicycles?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27340" CreationDate="2014-12-31T23:14:40.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I raced back in the eighties /'nineties 21 and 22 mm tires were common, some folks (me) experimented with 18 mm tires.  Since then they've figured out that wider tires are faster, but not that wide.  In a flat smooth time trial they're commonly using 23 and 25 mm tires now.  They wouldn't use a tire as wide as 38 mm in Paris Roubaix and parts of that are practically off road.  I think the pros would be running really wide tires in flat time trials if it were faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T23:14:40.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6612" CreationDate="2015-01-01T01:46:07.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about to ask a similar question, and figured I'd give you what I know so far.  I'm 6'8&quot;, more torso than legs.  36&quot; inseam, 37&quot; sleeve in dress shirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trek 1.5 is the low-end Trek road bike, aluminum frame, and comes in a 64 or 65cm setup.  I have one.  It works pretty darn well, out of the box.  Both Trek and Specialized make bikes in this size, but not all of their bikes; that said, you're getting started around $1k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only change I made was upgrading the shifters on mine; they were terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12949" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T01:46:07.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-01T01:57:04.973" Score="1" ViewCount="1205" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm 6'8&quot;.  I have a 36&quot; inseam, and wear a dress shirt with a 37&quot; sleeve.  I'm 220 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a chart anywhere online showing bicycle geometry across brands, with data on 64cm-or-larger road frames?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Going to a random local bicycle shop is nigh useless. They have a strong financial interest to sell a brand they already stock, so I need some data on brands to choose the right LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I know a custom builder can just do this, but that's not the question.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12949" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T11:09:49.077" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T11:09:49.077" Title="Tall man's bike - which manufacturers?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;tall&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-01T03:09:35.903" Score="9" ViewCount="18384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gotten a bike with very nice tubeless wheels, however I have little experience with fixing or replacing tubeless tires/wheels. I would much prefer to be able to put a regular mountain bike tube in the tire and rim without problems or much hassle.&#xA;Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15874" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T23:16:15.233" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T23:16:15.233" Title="Can tubes be used in tubeless rims as well as tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27347" CreationDate="2015-01-01T04:01:31.007" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - take off the tire and the tubeless valve, clean up the rim, put on some new rim tape and then install a tube + tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're running tubeless and you have a failure, you can always just pop a tube in and continue your ride. And tubeless has its advantages (lower pressures since you can avoid pinch flats), so you may want to embrace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T04:01:31.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27346" CreationDate="2015-01-01T11:04:14.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may consider contracting some custom frame builder, if you shop around you could get custom frame set in range of $2k maybe less, which would leave you $1k for rest of the bike . A quick google search showed some builders even locally in Pittsbourgh, although it is often not necessary that they are located in the same town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T11:04:14.780" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27352" CreationDate="2015-01-01T12:08:41.083" Score="5" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was checking some bikes on Decathlon (a large sports orientated chain store) and I found this size guide for some of their BTwin bikes. On their chart &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.btwin.com/notices/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Taille_Velo.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;[pdf]&lt;/a&gt; that maps rider measurements to bike frame size they have some overlap. So for some measurements, you can have two bike sizes that will fit you and the recommendation is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Larger bike if one desires more comfort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller bike if one focuses on performance &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: Is there any reason for this recommendation?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZQ06.png&quot; alt=&quot;Size Guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I dont know enough about bikes to realise if this question is too opinion-based, I hope not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15877" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T00:12:41.127" Title="Size question. Performance v Comfort" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27351" CreationDate="2015-01-01T12:47:48.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the angle of the guy's back, that's the key  to why they say that. For performance, the back will be in a more horizontal position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to be careful, though, how much faith you put into this sticker - if at all possible you should try both sizes and judge for yourself. Also, don't forget that different frames, with different geometries and tube angles, will also come into play. If you test the two sizes, and you still end up thinking that neither one fits you better than the other, at that point you could apply the smaller=performance/larger=comfort principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This advice is especially true for somewhere like Decathlon, which is a large enough store that a shop will probably have both sizes in stock (or could get hold of them if you ask).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a hybrid bike from Decathlon many years ago, they had height versus size charts then, but I remember totally ignoring them and buying the size that they said was for someone a whole 15cm/6&quot; taller than me, just based on how comfortable that particular size  felt when I rode it. I'm not saying that's how it would be for you and for this bike, it's just how it was for me - it's quite an individual thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-01-01T13:11:45.657" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T13:11:45.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27356" CreationDate="2015-01-01T19:14:14.320" Score="1" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Kona Coiler mountain bike at an estate sale, and the sellers didn't have any information about the pedals on it. I'm looking to buy some shoes and cleats, but I'm not sure what to buy because I haven't been able to identify the proper cleats for the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I've ridden mountain bikes in the past, the pedals were the &quot;egg beater&quot; type, which these pedals definitely are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone can identify the pedal type from the photo, that would be helpful. Even better would be a link to some sort of guide I can use in the future to identify pedals and match them to the appropriate cleat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the pedals in question (the nickel is there for scale):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/B7R9nk8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8691" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T19:11:22.283" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T19:11:22.283" Title="Is there a guide available for determining pedal/cleat combinations?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;&lt;pedals-clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27354" CreationDate="2015-01-01T19:22:55.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a Shimano SPD pedal (Shimano PD M-545 maybe?) -- normally these say Shimano on them somewhere in the cleat area, so look for a marking on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take the bike to the shop with you when you go to try cycling shoes (which you'll have to try in person) since they size in stupid ways. Then you'll easily be able to verify that its a SPD cleat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T19:22:55.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27354" CreationDate="2015-01-01T19:24:54.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those look like Shimano mountain SPD &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/sg/index/products/pedals/mountain/product.-code-PD-M545.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PD-M545&lt;/a&gt; pedals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/abunC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like a pretty good match to the picture on the Shimano site, but if you don't see a Shimano logo on them, they could be third party compatible pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleats look like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano_Pedaling_Dynamics#mediaviewer/File:Shimano_MT31_shoe_with_SH56_cleat-Sole.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jnlva.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of a guide that compares all pedal styles, but there are not that many pedal types in common use and most styles are different enough from each other that you can easily tell the difference between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5459" LastEditorUserId="5459" LastEditDate="2015-01-01T19:39:29.993" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T19:39:29.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-02T00:04:25.343" Score="4" ViewCount="31663" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something really strange happened to me - 2 years ago I bought a bike (Carrera Gryphon Hybrid from Halfords). I had just about 100 miles on that bike the month I bought it and than I locked it to a covered bike stand. I now tried to use it again but within a mile the left pedal came off. I tried to go on with the other pedal and after another mile it came off, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First thing I noticed is that one of the pedals must have not been screwed in till the end (thank you, Halfords!). The other thing is that the threads seem stripped. Here are the pics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left crank:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H3TSe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right crank: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dnkkk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right pedal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FkYrS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left pedal looked similar but I just scratched with my fingers and was able in just a few  minutes to remove much of the stuff that filled the threads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eTY6z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These metal rings were what came off when cleaned the threads of the right pedal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ijQWs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given that it was relatively easy to get the stripped metal off the right pedal I am thinking of cleaning the cranks and the other pedal and of trying to just screw in the pedals. However, I am a bit worried - if it was so easy for them to come off (OK, one of them was probably not screwed in till the end) what is the guarantee that putting them back in will last? I know, it doesn't cost anything to try out but I don't want to subject the threads to additional wear if there is possibly a better solution. I was even thinking of maybe trying something like a thread lock (e.g. locktite) but wanted to first ask for advice before I do something that I might regret.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15883" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T12:25:56.203" Title="Crank threads stripped - both pedals fell off" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27357" CreationDate="2015-01-02T00:29:30.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those cranks arms are gone/dead and need to be replaced.  The pedals are steel and the crank aluminum.  You should grease the threads so the metals do not fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T00:29:30.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27357" CreationDate="2015-01-02T00:30:52.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing you can do that is safe and reliable and sane is to get a new crankset. You'd need a helicoil or something similar to do the repair reliably and this would be less strong than a new crankset and cost more than the new crankset + installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, make sure everything is greased and tightened properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T00:30:52.600" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27357" CreationDate="2015-01-02T00:36:02.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The threads are completely stuffed. Do not just screw the pedals back in and do not rely on loctite or similar compounds. Pedals falling off is at best inconvenient, at worst can lead to crash and serious injury. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easiest option is to replace the cranks. Its not a big job but parts cost might mean a repair is a better option for you. The bottom bracket will probably be a square taper, so you need a special tool, or the LBS can do it in a few minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other realistic option is to insert a thread insert (Helicoil) thread repair into the cranks. The left hand crank is a left hand thread. (Park tool have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/pedal-bushing-kit&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;instructions&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T00:36:02.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-02T05:51:43.983" Score="0" ViewCount="3431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to Mountain Biking. I just bought a CRONUS HOLTS 330 (Hardtail) with Shimano gear system and disk brakes. Its a 19&quot; frame with 26&quot; tyres. All aluminium pretty light weight. The brakes are ok for now the only problem is the suspension forks. The forks are made by zoom and they suck. They dont spring back if they go in I have to jerk the handlebar upwards to bring them back to midway preload position. I am interested in buying a used rockshock air suspension fork but I cant figure out which ones are best for me because there are a million different types out there. Please help.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15886" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T08:52:28.020" Title="Building an Entry Level MTB. How should I choose suspension forks?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27362" CreationDate="2015-01-02T06:36:32.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, if you bought the bike new, take it to the shop.  But if you bought it used and it's out of warranty, it should be easy to find a matching fork.  Here are some that look relevant from RockShox now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/xc-32-tk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/xc-32-tk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/sektor-tk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/sektor-tk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/recon-gold-r&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/recon-gold-r&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything like those with a 26&quot; wheel size, 1 1/8&quot; steerer, and disc brake mounts should be OK.  You probably want 100mm of travel or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would help if you can tell us the model year of the bike (might be printed on a sticker on the bottom tube), as well as the fork details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T06:36:32.047" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-02T10:20:17.973" Score="0" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Kona Mahuna 2013 and I got a tapered fork as well as a new wheel and now I'm looking for advice on changing my headset to accept tapered forks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking and I believe that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/Headsets-and-Spacers/Cane-Creek-40-ZsEc-49mm-Headset-Tapered&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; headset should fit correctly in my bike. According to the specs, it has an FSA No.10 ZS44 semi-integrated at the moment, stock. I just want to make sure before I would get my headset and it installed correctly in the shop with all the reaming/facing/etc. required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13695" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T12:11:05.550" Title="Kona Mahuna 2013 headset change question." Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27365" CreationDate="2015-01-02T11:58:10.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best place to find what headset you need is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crane Creek headset finder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately in your particular case I thought the Mahuna has a straight 1 1/8 head tube and if so (correct me if I'm wrong) and therefore won't be able to take the tapered fork (easily, people have tried different things). Tapered steerers fit in tapered and 1.5 straight (with a reducing top headset) head tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T11:58:10.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="995" CreationDate="2015-01-02T16:53:50.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been long enough since this question was originally asked for helmets to have adapted. Currently there is a model of bicycle helmet that is full face, and used for downhill bicycle racing. Most (if not all) of these are certified according to the ASTM F1952 standard, which is a more rigorous standard than the CPSC (Consumer Products Safety Commission), which is a US based safety certification that all recommended bicycle helmets are required to have in the US (I believe foreign models sold in the US must either meet or exceed CPSC standards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The models will also list what standards they conform to, such as the list on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/bell-transfer-9-helmet-2015/rp-prod128488&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bell Transfer&lt;/a&gt; helmet page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at current models such as the ones at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/helmets/full-face-helmets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chain Reaction Cycles&lt;/a&gt; (Warning, link may decay), they are full face such as ski racing and motorcycle, and will accommodate goggles such as ski goggles. Add a head covering such as a balaclava or similar and you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4481" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T16:53:50.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-02T21:44:10.750" Score="2" ViewCount="22554" Body="&lt;p&gt;The threads on both cranks got busted due to putting the wrong pedals by the shop (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/27357/crank-threads-stripped-both-pedals-fell-off&quot;&gt;here is my post with details&lt;/a&gt;) so I need to find replacement. How to find compatible cranks? My bike is Carrera Gryphon Hybrid 21&quot; frame, 16 speeds, cranks are FSA Tempo, arm length is 175mm. The bike was sold by Halfords in 2012 but I couldn't find the technical info they gave me back than so these are the only details I know right now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else (other than the arm length and the 2 rings) do I need to look for? I tried looking for the part IDs online (A2F0953410 and A2F0964132) but nothing came up. Another ID I see printed on the back of the cranks is &quot;CK-200-1 D&quot; and &quot;CK-C200&quot;. I tried searching for these but the cranks I found did not seem to be of the same type or size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are photos of the backs of the cranks (photos of the fronts can be seen at the above link):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j072X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nXybm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you point me to compatible cranks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps. I now realise that I haven't tried to look up the QR codes on the cranks - will try to do this tomorrow but if you have any suggestions in the meantime - please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15883" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2019-02-23T16:23:25.250" Title="How to find compatible cranks?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27346" CreationDate="2015-01-02T22:47:21.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found this chart, of various models of bike stack height vs reach; this pretty much tells me what I should go look for, and which manufacturers - if any - have a probable fit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingabout.com/list-of-xxl-xxxl-bikes-for-tall-cyclists-62-63-64cm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclingabout.com/list-of-xxl-xxxl-bikes-for-tall-cyclists-62-63-64cm/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12949" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T22:47:21.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27368" CreationDate="2015-01-03T03:13:22.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a square taper (JIS) crankset. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/cranksets-road/vero-compact/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vero&lt;/a&gt; is a similar crank from Full Speed Ahead. However, any double chaining square taper crank will fit the bottom bracket. There's plenty of options with that in mind, especially if you're open to used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the same gearing, I'd suggest making sure the bolt circle diameter is the same. It should be 110cm. If the linear distance from one chainring bolt to the adjacent one is equivalent on both cranks, you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that 50/34 doubles are a relatively new phenomenon so the 110 bolt pattern is hard to find on old cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, don't get a triple. You'll need to change all sorts of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13613" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T03:13:22.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27368" CreationDate="2015-01-03T12:09:59.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say you wish to replace a crank similar to yours and you cannot find the exact same crank as the one you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BIG PICTURE: Unless you can find the exact same crank as yours, you'll need to purchase both a crank and matching bottom bracket. A guide for choosing a crank is listed below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure the length of the Bottom Bracket shell. If it is 68mm or 73mm you're in good shape because thats a very common 'British' or 'ISO' size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Count how many chainrings you have. 1? 2? or 3? 1 is a little tricky as its hard to come by, 2 (yours looks like 2) is commonly a 'road bike crank' and 3 is commonly a Mountain bike crank, though there are also 3 for road bike too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Count the teeth on the chainrings, or look for markings that may indicate the number of teeth (e.g.. 52teeth for the big one and 39teeth for the small chainring). If you like the gear ratios on your bike I suggest you stay with the same number with little deviation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Count how many cogs you have at the rear. 6,7,8,9,10,11? Anything 9 and below will allow many interchangeable cranks. 10 and 11 will require specific 10speed or 11 speed cranks ( i suspect yours is 8, thus you could get a crank designed for 9 speed or less. don't get one for a 10 speeder or higher)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Length of crank arm is less important for me. but you can select the same number as yours. 175mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With that information, I'd suggest to get a crank and matching bottom bracket for your bike. If you are using a square taper or Octalink or similar Bottom bracket your replacement crank may fit in it, but the length of the spindle of the bottom bracket may be incorrect for your crank.. so its very tricky. for example for square taper bottom brackets there are about 6 or more different spindle lengths. getting the length wrong could mean incorrect chainlines and issues with the drive train. So unless you get the exact same replacement crank.. you'll need to get a matching bb to the crank. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this juncture you might consider one of the HollowTech 2 cranks/bb from Shimano.. they work well and have less issues with spindle lengths though it may be challenging to get cranks for 9 speed or less unless they are old stocks. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15798" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T12:09:59.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27351" CreationDate="2015-01-03T12:33:01.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second the suggestion to try the bike. My experience is as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd always thought that having a bad and inflexible back that I would prefer to have my road bike handle bars more or less at the same height as my saddle. So two road bikes later, set up in this way and i've not been comfortable. In fact I've found more comfort in road bikes that have handle bars significantly lower than the saddle or in city bikes where the handle bars are significantly higher than the saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So big picture you'll need to try it.. and be open that you may not get it right the first time. I've spent loads of time playing with saddle position, handle bar position etc to find that perfect fit... I'm almost there... I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some considerations for you. If you are intent on city riding.. cycling on bicycle lanes and start-stopping in traffic and looking out for pedestrians, being as upright as possible is much more enjoyable / safer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're going for more or less uninterrupted speed  and distance, a bike that gets you more hunched over will be more aerodynamic (especially over the 25 km/h) range&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm almost 180cm and prefer my slightly undersized 54cm bike over a more 'appropriate' 56cm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15798" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T12:33:01.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25894" CreationDate="2015-01-03T12:35:43.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not have any problem with regards to your rear derraileur. it will work with a wide variety of shifters. I've mixed many derraileurs within the Shimano brand across various product generations (usually from 7 speed to 10 speed). My limitation would be I've not used 11 speed equipment. There are some exceptions. For example the Shimano AX series derraileurs from the 80's will only work with friction shifters. .&#xA;For the fronts, there is some information on Sheldon that indicates that there may be issues with brifters and your derraileur. I've used brifters with a very similar derrailuer to to the Tourney and it works ok. My only concern would be the triple cranks that you have and its compatibility to a triple front shifter indexing. That I cannot comment on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15798" LastEditorUserId="15798" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T06:44:04.980" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T06:44:04.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-03T12:56:33.477" Score="0" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what rear shock will fit my 2009 Scott Spark 60?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought the bike second hand with the wrong rear shock, because of the current shock the geometry of the bike is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is meant to have a Manitou Radium RL, I cannot find measurements or specification or a place to buy this shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help will be gratefully received. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15896" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T00:35:47.760" Title="What rear shock will fit my Scott spark 2009?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27394" CreationDate="2015-01-03T14:33:23.480" Score="2" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have rim brakes on my bike both rear and front, but have been lately decreasing in efficiency, making weird noise when I brake hard and the braking distance has increased too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither my brakes nor my rim have any problems like wear, tension, gap and such. I clean off dust from the rims every now and then. Any ideas what might be contributing to the decreased efficiency of my brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14633" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-06-26T04:08:11.817" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T04:08:11.817" Title="Make rim braking efficient" Tags="&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27380" CreationDate="2015-01-03T14:39:22.810" Score="3" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in an area which is connected to main road by a small lane(worse than mountainous region, I mean it's condition) and the main road is just like a new tarmac surface, the speed breakers are something like road blocks half feet in height and half feet in width with triangular surface. My old bike is an mtb and serves both well but it is heavy any suggestions what I should look for in my new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14633" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T20:46:01.430" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T14:02:07.007" Title="What sort of bike will suit both offroading and onroading" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27379" CreationDate="2015-01-03T14:59:24.390" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out cyclocross style bicycle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It does well on the road and light trails.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can put touring tires on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclo-cross&quot;&gt;wiki Cyclo-cross&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T14:59:24.390" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27322" CreationDate="2015-01-03T15:05:12.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can't see how a flat inside ring with no pick-up points machined&#xA;  into it wouldn't be compatible, providing the bolt patterns match up&#xA;  (which they do, I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt patterns are compatible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two reasons why the chainrings still may be counted as non-compatible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not all Shimano chainsets have identical fitting of the chainring, even if the bolt circle diameter is the same. Sometimes a chainring has to be slightly filed on the internal diameter. I tend to think that this clearly intentional incompatibility is not introduced without a reason and there is some other subtle difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In practice:&lt;/strong&gt; I used some &quot;force-filed&quot; chainrings and do not remember noticing poor shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;28T chainring will not be &quot;hyperglide-compatible&quot; with your larger chainring, whatever size it is. The latter is designed especially for upshifting from the 22T. Being shifted up from the (rightly positioned) 22T, the chain links hit the shifting pins and dents so that the chain engages properly. Being upshifted from another chainring, the chain links would not be correctly positioned (except if by luck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the reason why, for example, the Shimano PDF which you linked lists two different 38T chainrings: &quot;&lt;strong&gt;38T-AM&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; and &quot;&lt;strong&gt;38T-AK&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. The former is &quot;hyperglide-compatible&quot; with &lt;strong&gt;24T-AM&lt;/strong&gt;, the latter with &lt;strong&gt;26T-AK&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In practice:&lt;/strong&gt; Some people would say that the difference is again not noticeable; here I disagree. IMO the front shifting degrades seriously.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14658" LastEditorUserId="452" LastEditDate="2015-01-07T12:25:03.887" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T12:25:03.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-03T17:46:44.487" Score="1" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, fairly new to cycling, and looking at getting some cycling clothes. Question is do you change into different clothes if, for example you go in for a meal during a days cycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15897" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T22:28:44.733" Title="Do you change from cycling clothes when out and about" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-01-04T20:25:53.293" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27393" CreationDate="2015-01-03T18:12:00.097" Score="0" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently noticed on my bike that the brake cable housing is shaking at the point where it joins the brake caliper. This is pretty irritating since the cable housing moves whenever I use the brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bpjin.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEWHv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xc5ad.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that the metal ring on the cable has moved between the three pictures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually hire a professional to fix these problems but have decided to do it on my own from now. I could not find anything from some google searches to solve this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15898" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2015-01-03T20:23:56.453" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T23:37:46.000" Title="Brake cable shaking at the end of the brake caliper" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27383" CreationDate="2015-01-03T18:15:45.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That ring is supposed to be a lock ring.  Tighten it up against the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T18:15:45.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27397" CreationDate="2015-01-03T18:39:36.500" Score="0" ViewCount="11621" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently upgrading an old Peugot frame and I'm trying to buy the correct wheel size for the bike. This is actually my second attempt after selecting the incorrect size last year. The bike is old and uses cantilever brakes and i'm trying to identify the correct width, I'm 90% confident it will accept a 700c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big question I'm struggling to know is the width the wheels should be. I made a massive mistake and brought 700 by 13 - ridiculously thin. I'm know hearing anything between 19 and 27 but I'm not sure what to check so I can determine the correct size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also looking for a single gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what the average wheel width should be for a vintage Peugot bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some more details on the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Estimated age: 70's&#xA;Type of bike: Racer&#xA;Photos attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sXeca.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GEaem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15899" LastEditorUserId="15899" LastEditDate="2015-01-03T19:59:46.327" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T09:16:54.713" Title="Correct wheel size for a vintage Peugot" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27398" CreationDate="2015-01-03T19:02:31.737" Score="1" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm renovating an old Peugot and need to replace the crank. It takes a clotted crank however I'm not sure on the size. I brought a crank previously and it didn't fit, I couldn't get it on the bike because it didn't slip on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of teeth required I'm ok with, more concerned with getting the crank on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo attached&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZVUwM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15899" LastEditorUserId="15899" LastEditDate="2015-01-03T20:00:53.743" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T05:00:54.620" Title="Crank type for an old peugot" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-03T21:30:09.220" Score="3" ViewCount="22137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm disappointed with my new Cannondale and it's 105 group, I expected this to be a major upgrade from my previous trouble free bike with the bottom end group set. It's done about 500 miles, had new cables, a new chain and rear derailleur re-alignment and numerous adjustments over the 5 service visits between 2 dealers and it still doesn't shift smoothly every time. Over a 2 hour mixed terrain ride it will miss-shift several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be mainly an issue with the 3 black colored gears in the center of the cassette, regardless of small or big chain ring. Sometimes when up or down shifting the lever clicks as normal but the chain does not move to the adjacent gear, click again and it moves and stays there until the next shift. Other times I would down shift in anticipation of a hill, the chain appears to have moved, but when I stand it slips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these issues happen randomly and spoil my riding pleasure, does anyone have any thoughts on what the issue might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15900" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T13:16:18.930" Title="Shimano 105 rear shifting issues" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27389" CreationDate="2015-01-03T21:33:47.793" Score="4" ViewCount="4126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've installed a chain lock to my chain. It looks like this (mine is not KMC):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KINJJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I need to unlink the chain to clean it, but I can't do it: the lock is too tight. I found a special tool on ebay to open such locks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/30CCH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/KMC-Missing-Link-Removal-Tool-Fast-and-Effective-Black-/171101004843?pt=AU_Sport_Cycling_Parts&amp;amp;hash=item27d66a242b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/KMC-Missing-Link-Removal-Tool-Fast-and-Effective-Black-/171101004843?pt=AU_Sport_Cycling_Parts&amp;amp;hash=item27d66a242b&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it the correct tool to open the chain lock?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to open it using home tools?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13656" LastEditorUserId="13656" LastEditDate="2015-01-03T21:47:04.437" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T19:52:36.433" Title="Is it necessary to buy a special tool to open the chain lock" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27388" CreationDate="2015-01-03T21:56:56.097" Score="9" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That is the appropriate tool to open KMC (and similar) style missing links.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible to open them with some needle nose pliers but is much easier with a missing link removal tool and you are less likely to damage the chain (or yourself.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T21:56:56.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11060" CreationDate="2015-01-03T22:25:12.367" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;91 mm front dropout dimension indicates cheap front hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15902" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T22:25:12.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27382" CreationDate="2015-01-03T22:26:58.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a matter of priorities, really. If I'm riding out to a meal, then I'll wear clothing appropriate for the meal, and choose my bike accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if I'm out on a day's ride, I'll dress appropriate for the ride and a spare set of clothes just represents bulk. Do I really want to carry that extra weight? No way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third scenario, if I am away on a multi-day cycling trip, I will wear cycling gear for the day's riding, but will have a shirt and some trousers for the evening. These have to be as light as possible, as again they represent bulk in my pannier. I suppose I could get away with eating in the hotel in my lycra, it's just possibly a bit whiffy for other diners!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T22:26:58.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27382" CreationDate="2015-01-03T22:28:44.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being of the female persuasion, I sometimes bring a maxi dress in a lightweight fabric that I can throw on over cycling gear. I bike in Keen sandals, which are good enough for casual restaurants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that many restaurants near a bike trail are used to it, even appreciate bikers as customers. (Shout-out to the Grumpy Troll in Mt. Horeb, Wisconsin!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T22:28:44.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27383" CreationDate="2015-01-03T23:37:46.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the initial cable adjustment is too loose. You need to adjust (remove the slack)from the cable at the cable pinch bolt on the brake caliper or arm.  Before you make these adjustments verify that the brake pads are not worn to the point of needing replacement as you will need to do this again when the pads are replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T23:37:46.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27378" CreationDate="2015-01-03T23:49:08.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look for contamination of the pads and wheels. Oil residue from the roadway may have gotten on to the brake surfaces. Try to clean them with a mild cleaner. I typically use the blue glass cleaner. If the brake pads are several years old they may be getting dried out or glazed. You can try to resurface the rubber face of the pad with a file. The improvement if any tends to be short lived. Avoid sanding the pads with sandpaper as the grit can imbed in the pad and damage the rim. Also consider some performance oriented brake pads. The pad materials have different characteristics such as wet stopping, dry stopping, durability and price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T23:49:08.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27379" CreationDate="2015-01-04T00:02:53.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you could use a hybrid bicycle. 29&quot; wheels with slightly knobby tyres, upright handlebar and some come with a front suspension, though I would select one without.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15798" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T00:02:53.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2525" CreationDate="2015-01-04T01:42:56.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are (generally speaking) four types of modern bike cranks: single, with one front gear; triple, with three front gears; standard double, with two front gears, and lastly, compact, which is a double with smaller diameter chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference you are describing is between a standard and compact double.  A standard was once 52 (or 53) paired with a 42 (these are the count of teeth on the chainrings). In more recent times it became 53/39. Because of the bolt pattern on the crank arms, which back then was often 144 or 130mm, the smallest you could fit was 39.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, someone revived the 110mm bolt pattern, often used on inexpensive bikes from the 70s and 80s, as well as some oldwer mountain bikes, and some pretty decent cranks as well.  This allowed one to use a chainring as small as 34 teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this allowed one to employ a &quot;compact&quot; front gearing; smaller chainrings; 50 instead of 53; 34 instead of 39.  The result?  Really no need of that inner granny gear, especially with some minor tweaks to the rear gearing, since the inside gear on most triples was a 32 (I had a mountainbike 28 on mine 'cause i cheat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of compact double over triple was in shifting efficiency.  Triples don't shift as well as doubles (which is why you are seeing the growth of compact or even single chainring mountain bike setups too) and also they weigh a little more.  For serious riders it's a benefit.  I love my new compact, but I don't like the new trend to stack more and more gears on the back.  Range rather than number works there.  Companies are coming out with 11 speeds now.  But 8 was optimal IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For riders, it allows easier climbing and better shifting.  But it's a style thing too for the companies selling it, because except for touring bikes there is a cultural perception that doubles mean &quot;fast&quot;.  So it plays on customers egos, all those guys that want to look like racers.  But at least it's also got a real mechanical advantage for us riders, unlike some things, like bb30 bottom brackets that are nonadjustible and creak, or...  remember 20x700 tires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15903" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T09:44:21.483" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T09:44:21.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27385" CreationDate="2015-01-04T04:52:31.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 70s Peugeot sold outside France probably used 27&quot; wheels, not 700c wheels (though aside from the Velo Orange wheelset, you're probably going to have trouble finding 27&quot; wheels and will have to try 700c wheels + a brake that fits it [an extra 4 mm adjustment is needed]).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger issue is finding a wheel set which has hub spacing that fits this frame - likely 120mm in the back and possibly 96 mm in the front (or finding someone who is willing to cold set the frame+fork). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T04:52:31.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27386" CreationDate="2015-01-04T05:00:54.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easy solution is to rip out the old bottom bracket, put on a modern JIS/ISO bottom bracket. Velo Orange makes some with &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/bottom-brackets/grand-cru-bottom-brackets-hollow-axle-alloy-cups-61.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;french threading&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/bottom-brackets/grand-cru-threadless-bottom-brackets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;threadless&lt;/a&gt; (if the threads are stuffed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then find your favorite square taper crankset and put it on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping cottered cranks is extra work since the &quot;right way&quot; to do things with cottered cranks requires a bunch of tools nobody has anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T05:00:54.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25682" CreationDate="2015-01-04T05:30:43.103" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree. Not an easy job. Brake lights must be waterproof, including switches. Operation in extreme temperatures is also a challenge. Got to work in very hot weather in summer and subzero F temperatures in winter. I have had some Chinese made lights that were very temperature sensitive and not waterproof. Not useful beyond spring weather. Chinese skimping on &quot;automotive temperature range&quot; and &quot;military temperature range&quot; components. These cost money.Chinese makers are usually not going to spend the money, skimp on components instead. Small inventors will quickly run into price fixing. Kickstarter can help, but realistic cost estimates of neeeded top quality components need to be listed &quot;up front&quot;. At present, 2W LEDs give plenty of visibility. NiteRider Solas tail light is prime example. Circuitry controlling LEDs seems to be a problem. Not taking brake light function very seriously as yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15905" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T05:30:43.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21706" CreationDate="2015-01-04T06:10:59.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read this article, all 11 speed cassette works with all Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo drivetrain, meaning chain and RD and crankset, so the answer is the Shimano 11 speed chain and Campagnolo 11 speed chain are interchangable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fitwerx.com/campagnolo-shimano-and-sram-11-speed-wheel-compatiblity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://fitwerx.com/campagnolo-shimano-and-sram-11-speed-wheel-compatiblity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15908" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T06:10:59.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8548" CreationDate="2015-01-04T08:10:37.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, after breaking a rib on my penny farthing, I fitted a free wheeling hub from a slider kids bike (green machine) and fitted a disc brake going downhill is fun now and my feet stay on the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15909" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2015-01-04T20:20:41.413" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T20:20:41.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-04T09:03:50.617" Score="1" ViewCount="4487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have road shoes but would like to also get a pair of shoes for flat pedals that still look like road shoes but have grip for the flat pedals etc..  Can anyone please suggest anything, thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15911" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T19:08:44.627" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T19:08:44.627" Title="Flat pedal road bike shoes" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;pedals-flat&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16348" CreationDate="2015-01-04T09:24:27.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The RideWithGPS Android and iPhone apps now also offers this with subscription payment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/app&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ridewithgps.com/app&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned before, the RideWithGPS website is useful for trip planning, you can customize your cue sheets, save maps and route for offline use, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15912" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T09:24:27.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27343" CreationDate="2015-01-04T18:27:28.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having received an answer from Oxford:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As regards spacers, cycle tourists want/need a low stand over height,&#xA;  so that their bikes handle nicely and so that they can stop easily and&#xA;  grip their bike between their thighs when fully loaded. However, many&#xA;  cycle tourists want a head-up relatively high front end so that they&#xA;  can see into the middle distance without getting a stiff neck. For&#xA;  those cyclists who come from a road/700c background, they typically&#xA;  want a lower handlebar setting at the front, so the number of spacers&#xA;  is less, so generally its not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T14:02:29.240" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T14:02:29.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-04T18:49:26.540" Score="1" ViewCount="3410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at gravel racing what should I look for in fit compared to a normal road bike setup? I'm concerned about stack and reach angles of head tube and seat tube, bottom bracket drop, fork rake and such things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15916" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-01-04T22:48:35.917" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T18:21:50.887" Title="Gravel road bike fit" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;gravel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27379" CreationDate="2015-01-04T20:35:12.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a lighter mountain bike. You can then get some hybrid tyres if you want better rolling on the road, but you will still be able to do proper mountain biking if you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T20:35:12.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27402" CreationDate="2015-01-04T21:02:02.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For flat pedals, here's my suggested preference order of shoe type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A skateboarding shoe. They have flat grippy soles with more stiffness than most shoes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A traditional bicycling shoe (intended for use with clips and straps).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A shoe made for any indoor sport. Indoor soccer shoes (like John Zwinck linked to in a comment), basketball shoes, etc. These will have a flat grippy sole intended for hardwood, that any flat pedal will grip quite nicely. Probably avoid anything &quot;high top&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A shoe made for athletic activities on pavement. Walking shoes, running shoes, etc. These won't be as flat or as grippy as the indoor sport shoes, but will still be quite good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any athletic shoe. A shoe made for trail running will tend to have a fairly lumpy sole, but that may still work just fine on your flat pedals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any shoe. Face it, flat pedals work with any shoe you can walk in. Preferably something with a secured heel and toe coverage. I don't recommend it, but I've even done it in flip-flops with no problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Categories 2 through 5 all have available models that have that sort of futuristic aerodynamic look favored by clipless cycling shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're doing long distance riding with flexible shoes and small pedals, you may find you get a bit of a &quot;hot spot&quot; where your foot pushes on the pedal. Stiffer soles and a larger flatter pedal platform can both help with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A high-end &quot;BMX&quot; or &quot;mountain biking&quot; flat pedal is much kinder to your foot than the traditional cage pedals that often come free with the bike. To me, the ideal is a thin pedal, just as wide as your shoe at the ball of your foot, with replaceable pins. Those cage pedals have small platforms with a sort of serrated knife edge rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T21:02:02.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-04T21:08:37.693" Score="0" ViewCount="2142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a dynamo hub, rim, and spokes for a wheel build. Unknown to me at the time of purchase, I discovered that the spokes all have blue thread locker compound pre-applied to the threads.  The spokes are DT Swiss Competition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Do I need to use any other thread-locker or spoke prep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Do I need to lace and tension the wheel all at once, or can I lace it one day, set the nipples to a set start position (with a nipple driver) and then tension it later?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T20:45:41.570" Title="Do I need to use thread locker or spoke prep when building wheels if spokes come pre-treated?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-04T21:38:06.840" Score="4" ViewCount="31374" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike tires will not pump up at all. I tried forever. I had this bike for a year and then it won't pump at all. I have a pump you stand on and use your 2 hands to pump. At first it was pumping air a little but now I it's not pumping. What do I do I'm confused. Do I need a new inner tube or I do I have a bad a tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15919" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T23:32:00.943" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T20:12:05.360" Title="What do I do if my bike won't pump with an air pump at all?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27406" CreationDate="2015-01-04T22:30:59.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't try and design the geometry. Go with what fits you.  From bike to bike geometry will differ. Gravel is going to be more upright than a road bike.  It will ride like cylcocross. If you have the same make in a road bike then see what size is your height and pick a gravel for that height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T22:30:59.607" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27411" CreationDate="2015-01-04T22:47:03.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think you need to unscrew the valve on the tyre sounds as though its not allowing air into the tyre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15920" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T22:47:03.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27411" CreationDate="2015-01-04T23:55:37.407" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of valve do you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hdnT0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have Presta valves then you need to unscrew that little knobbie thing on top until the knobbie is all the way unscrewed against the bump on the end of the shaft it rides on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With either Presta or Schrader you can have a problem with the pump if you do not press the pump chuck &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; the way onto the valve.  Especially with Schrader there is a pin in the chuck that needs to depress a pin inside the valve to open it up.  And sometimes you need to adjust the chuck by screwing the collar on the business end of the chuck on or off a turn or two, so that the chuck will go on and seat tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(When you're finished inflating a Presta valve, don't forget to turn the knobbie the other way, so that it helps hold the valve closed.  Don't wrench it tight, but just get it snug.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T04:37:31.407" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T04:37:31.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4912" CreationDate="2015-01-05T00:25:17.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bet the side for each brake lever was picked out by a government bureaucrat that hasn't even ridden a bicycle in many years and by a different agency than that which controls motor vehicles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never locked up the front wheel of a bicycle on pavement, I don't think it is even  possible.  More likely, too much front braking would cause an end over. The rear brake is much more prone to skidding, but won't as readily cause a collision with the pavement on a bicycle. At the speeds motorcycles travel locking up the rear tire can be much more dangerous.  If you start skidding the rear wheel and regain traction a little crooked the rider can be thrown off of the bike.  The front brake works oppositely--you fall down if you don't quickly regain traction.  I have locked up the front wheel on a cruiser type motorcycle briefly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched the cables on my mountain bikes' brakes so that the right hand controls the front  brakes.  Those cantelever brakes are strong! I left the side-pull caliper brakes on a road bike backwards as it came.  Those brakes weren't that strong anyway and were buried under tape. (literally) Those drop bars with vertical brake levers feel very different from a motorcycle, the mountain bike less so. I haven't wrecked yet, so must not have become too confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My parents brought with them 2 bicycles from Germany.  Both bikes had one hand lever for the front brake--on the right side.  The rear brake was coaster brake.  The left hand could ring the bell!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15921" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T00:25:17.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25457" CreationDate="2015-01-05T08:54:19.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from more obvious issues like mal adjusted front derrailleur where the chain would rub against it at certain positions (this should not occur when you are using the middle rear cog).... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once encountered a sandy gritty feel on the pedals on a bike with new but very cheap cassette and chain. after ascertaining it was not pedals (rotated the pedals alone by hand) and not the bottom bracket (I removed the chain and pedaled) I eventually found it to be the very new and very cheap cassette (we are talking those new 6 speed freewheels with the Shimano brand on the the largest cog) to be at fault. After a swap with a very old and  used 6 speed freewheel (good quality circa 1979) the transmission was smooth as butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another time with my first foray of replacing chains, i had incorrectly placed it on the rear derrailleur jockey wheels. It then rubbed on a metal tab as it traveled through the jockey wheels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another time I had replaced a chain on an old 12 speed bike with a NOS 1970s Shimano chain that I think had rivets that sat too far proud that it rubbed against the cassette when one was in the taller (smaller) gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I adjusted a brand new aluminium road bike that when the bike was on big in front and small behind, the chain would rub on a weld seam at the point where the chain stay meets the seat stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another time I set the front derraileur too low and it was lightly brushing against the teeth of my crank chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15798" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T08:54:19.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27268" CreationDate="2015-01-05T13:17:59.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the answers, guys. For the benefit of anyone who's come across this with the same issue: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you both suggested, a bent derailleur hanger was indeed the problem, and bending it back out with a spanner and re-indexing resolved the issue (although shifting isn't quite perfect). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I falsely assumed, with my limited experience, that this problem would have prevented extremes of the cassette being reached. What actually happened is the bent angle caused the outermost 'speed' to point out, beyond the range of the cassette and into an area prohibited by the limit screws (as diagnosed by several answers), giving the impression (with cable tension applied) that the shifter couldn't physically acheive this final speed. &#xA;I (unknowingly) compensated for this by setting an eccentric range with a lot of movement towards the large sprocket, and a severe limit at the small sprocket (this was evident just by looking at the screws). So both extremes could be reached despite the bend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, bent derailleur was the issue and I know the suspect this straight away in future :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15825" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T13:17:59.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27420" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-05T16:39:31.277" Score="1" ViewCount="1642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a pair of club roost cross terra (27 1 3/8) on a vintage raleigh bike (maybe it's raleigh record). Originally the bike had 27 1 1/4 tires.&#xA;If I'm correct, 1 1/4 is 32mm wide and 1 3/8 is 35 mm wide.&#xA;The clearance between the chainstays and the rear tire is 2mm on both sides. Is this acceptable? &#xA;The brakes are just fine and I only use the bike for daily commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T17:11:47.363" Title="2mm clearance between the chainstay and the rear tire" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27420" CreationDate="2015-01-05T17:11:47.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clearance is clearance.  It will work fine until your wheel goes out of true, or you ride in conditions that produce 2mm of extra width on your tire (mud, snow, etc).  Or alternately some combination of the two.  Depending on your frame material (I am too lazy to look yours up, but I'll assume steel) it will probably rub on almost every ride at some point when you flex the frame enough for it to touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T17:11:47.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-05T17:57:16.273" Score="1" ViewCount="992" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build some base strength in the winter, doing some endurance training. I am mostly following the &lt;a href=&quot;http://support.trainerroad.com/hc/en-us/articles/201893574-Base-Traditional&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TrainerRoad Base plan&lt;/a&gt; (which seems to be similar to the Bicycle Bible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've tried to do a couple of 2-3h sessions per week. Should I add any energy during such a session?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that one would get better fat oxidation doing water-only rides, but would also get more tired, and experience a longer recovery time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice? I'm training for one 300km race, if it matters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: i mean some added sugar to the water bottle, bars or gel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit2: found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://triathlon.competitor.com/2014/06/nutrition/inside-triathlon-magazine-fat-burning-machine_31034&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://triathlon.competitor.com/2014/06/nutrition/inside-triathlon-magazine-fat-burning-machine_31034&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This guy seems to do a mix and add energy after 2h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14644" LastEditorUserId="14644" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T03:53:35.853" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T22:02:40.020" Title="base training with or without added energy?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27379" CreationDate="2015-01-05T19:35:09.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion would be a bike from the emerging &quot;gravel&quot; or &quot;adventure&quot; categories. Typically they are comfortable road bikes with clearance for larger tires, meant to be used on a wide variety of road surfaces, both paved and unpaved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T19:35:09.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27422" CreationDate="2015-01-05T20:05:55.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry, no science...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last winter I did quite a lot of base miles and largely didn't eat during the rides of about (50/60 miles) though occasionally I'd stop of a coffee &amp;amp; cake close to home. I generally felt quite tired and hungry (I wanted to eat for Britain so to speak).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In mid March I went on my first longer ride (which ended up at 102 miles). I ate jelly babies all the way around and stopped once just to fill my water bottles. I didn't feel especially tired or hungry after that ride. Afterwards I felt like I'd wasted a whole winter.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This year I'm doing the same type of training but I'm eating jelly babies as I go (one every 30 minutes or so) . I feel much better for it, I'm not so tired and don't want to eat loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user400" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T20:05:55.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27422" CreationDate="2015-01-05T20:25:16.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No Science Opinion #2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By not continuing to boost your blood sugar, your boy will theoretically switch to a metabolic state that burns more fat.  I have seen endurance racers do it both ways.  I have seen guys that may snack a bit inbetween, but will basically just eat two or three meals during a long race and not much in between.  I also have seen guys that have bags and bags of candy and are constantly eating.  I think the bigger question is finding out which works for you.  I recommend you figure out if you are more comfortable eating and riding constantly (hard for some folks), or comfortable riding on a fairly full stomach (hard as well).  Then, train and practice that method of keeping yourself fueled so when its time for your big ride, your body already understands what is going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T20:25:16.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27427" CreationDate="2015-01-05T22:51:48.430" Score="0" ViewCount="1451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a limited budget, and I've never bought a new bicycle before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I just bought a 24&quot; Giant XTC from a very bicycle-inept person who's kid had only used it a couple of months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I checked the hubs (which were essentially new), and they were both significantly overtightened, with heavy though &quot;uniform&quot; indexing. Having my cone wrenches with me, I adjusted them, and they spun very nicely. I figured there wasn't damage, so I bought the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point is, it seems like the hubs were originally tuned in that over-tight fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the hubs apart. It all looked great inside except for the embarrassing fact that one side of the rear hub &lt;strong&gt;had only six balls instead of nine.&lt;/strong&gt; Ouch, Giant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T19:33:48.997" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T19:04:00.050" Title="New bike hubs way over-tightened?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27426" CreationDate="2015-01-05T23:02:54.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't imagine it is normal for them to be over-tightened - what would be the point? However, its generally advised after buying a machine built bike / wheels to check that spokes / hubs haven't loosening after a breaking in period. This in in comparison with a hand built bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="5953" LastEditDate="2015-11-28T19:04:00.050" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T19:04:00.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27422" CreationDate="2015-01-06T00:15:41.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ausport.gov.au/ais/nutrition/factsheets/competition_and_training/eating_before_exercise&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Australian Institute of Sport article about Eating before exercise&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exercising in a fasted state (8 hours since the last meal) results in a greater proportion of fat being used as the exercise fuel compared to doing the same workload after a carbohydrate-containing meal or snack.  However, it is possible that you may be able to exercise harder and for a longer period if you consume carbohydrate before exercise.  Overall, this will result in greater energy use and a better contribution to the negative energy balance that is needed to cause fat loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a decision about eating before your workout, it is useful to consider the goals of the session. If your primary goal is to improve performance, have something to eat before exercise.  If your primary goal is weight loss, and you will do the same amount of exercise regardless of whether you eat or not, save your meal until after the session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T00:15:41.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27379" CreationDate="2015-01-06T00:21:25.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would lean toward getting a bike that handles offroad really well.  You can always ride and offroad bike on the road but it is more difficult to ride a onroad bike offroad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5256" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T00:21:25.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27433" CreationDate="2015-01-06T02:31:01.883" Score="0" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently moved to a new city and need a bicycle.&#xA;I noticed an unlocked bike covered in dirt with flat tires in my apartment's parking garage.  Would it be ethical to clean it up and use it for my commute?  I would leave it back  in the same place at the end of each day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15931" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T04:15:00.077" Title="Is it ethical to use an abandoned bicycle in my parking garage?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-01-07T18:05:29.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27432" CreationDate="2015-01-06T03:58:55.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't get your logic.  So you would share with the rightful owner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Borrowing is stealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is property abandoned is a legal question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not an attorney and don't take this a legal advice but to me a unlocked bike in public or semi public place for more than 30 days is abandoned.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seriously doubt you can just air it up and ride it.  On an economical level if you have to put new tires on it you are not getting a good return.  The rightful owner or a person with even less ethics than you will take it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a used cheap bike. But then you don't know if you are buying a stolen bik&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T04:15:00.077" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T04:15:00.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21077" CreationDate="2015-01-06T04:38:08.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oil leaking from the hub has been an ongoing problem for me too.&#xA;When the bike was still new there was an oil leak from the gear changer side which went to Shimano (twice) before the internal seal was replaced (the external seal was replaced the first time to no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over a year later the leak started again and this time Shimano have had the wheel for almost a month and I'm starting to get frustrated. The decent thing to do would be to replace the hub and apologise for all the time wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Móż: edited in from comment because it seems useful, thanks OverTheRainbow)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On their &quot;how we maintain your Shimano hub&quot; page &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rideyourbike.com/shimanoIGH.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RideYourBike.com&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is our experience that &lt;strong&gt;Alfine 11 speed hubs seep oil&lt;/strong&gt; out of the main seal. &#xA;  we now consider this normal! simply wipe off any excess and add more oil periodically.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Newer hubs seem to leak less than previous. &#xA;  If the seal is over-torqued it will deform and leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15933" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T02:16:48.043" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T02:16:48.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-06T10:03:38.857" Score="1" ViewCount="684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one Gt aggressor 2.0 2014 and want to make some upgrade. So someone told me to buy a new hub to use with a 9 speed cassette. I want to buy the hub but later the 9v cassette, so has any hub can use 7 speed cassette? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15936" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T23:01:38.967" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T23:01:38.967" Title="Hubs compatible with 7 speed cassette" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27436" CreationDate="2015-01-06T12:56:34.257" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The GT Aggressor 2.0 2014 ships with a rear wheel which uses a freewheel, so if you want to go 9 speed, you need a rear wheel which has a Shimano-compatible cassette freehub as well as a 9 speed rear shifter which is Shimano compatible (and obviously a 9 speed cassette).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying a new rear wheel will be likely cheaper and more reliable than having the existing rear wheel rebuilt with a freehub. A 9 speed cassette freehub can use a 7 speed cassette with a spacer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'd recommend against the whole idea -- by the time you've done this, you've spent likely half the cost of a cheap bike like the Aggressor 2.0 and with the low spec of the rest of the bike, you're not really going to see performance gains (especially for the amount of money you're spending). If you want 9 speed, sell the bike you have and buy something is 9 speed already. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T14:52:41.437" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T14:52:41.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37984" CreationDate="2015-01-06T14:42:05.467" Score="1" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to be able to use my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tacx.com/products/trainers/i-flow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tacx i.Flow T2270&lt;/a&gt; trainer without a PC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://activesport.co.uk/shop/article_T2202/T2202-Tacx-Head-Unit-Flow-%282012%3E%29-White_Blue.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;T2202&lt;/a&gt;, which current or older standalone head units would be compatible? Would &lt;a href=&quot;http://activesport.co.uk/shop/article_T1682/T1682-Tacx-Head-Unit-Flow.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;T1682&lt;/a&gt; work? What about head units from other Tacx models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am looking to buy secondhand, so would like to understand my options.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11228" LastEditorUserId="11228" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T15:24:16.647" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T07:31:21.983" Title="Which standalone head units would work with Tacx i.Flow T2270?" Tags="&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27388" CreationDate="2015-01-06T17:51:15.037" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I've ever disassembled one of these missing links, since they became common.  I've always used a chain press.  Have you considered using one of those?  You need one if you want to shorten or lengthen the chain anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T17:51:15.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27388" CreationDate="2015-01-06T19:46:19.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have yet to find a quicklink that I couldn't separate just using my hands, but it is an acquired skill. I did struggle a bit with the first few attempts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step one is to put the chain into a Z formation with the quicklink forming the downward slash of the Z. Then you need to both squeeze and slide. The quicklink won't slide into &#xA;the removal slot until you squeeze the plates together just a bit. You can squeeze with one hand and use the other hand to pull on the excess chain to create the sliding force. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need a lot of force to accomplish this once you've mastered the trick, but I remember taking more than a few trys to figure it all out. If you have needle nose sized&#xA;vice grips those can help with the squeezing part while you figure out the slide part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T19:46:19.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27388" CreationDate="2015-01-06T19:52:36.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you need a special tool, you are probably doing it wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally the whole point of using a link is so you can service the chain without a chain tool, and there was no need to carry a chain breaker in the field because you could carry a spare link or two  to repair a chain if needed. They could also make more money selling (one time use) links than tools - so it was a win win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marketing guys have now worked out they can now make more money by selling special tools for the special links that don't need a special tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would invest in a chain breaker and not use links if you need a tool to undo the link. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as getting links undone - they do need to clean and free of grit. Press the plates together with figures, and push the link pins towards each other. It will open easily with virtually no pressure. If you need to apply pressure, wiggle it around, till it pops open. If it won't release in 30 seconds, clean it some more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the link is damaged or faulty, and won't easily open. In this case there various techniques (Pliers, point pliers, loop of wire around link pins and twist till they pop.) which may damage the link, but if you can't open with figures, its stuffed anyway, so go ahead with brute force and replace it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T19:52:36.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27444" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-06T19:55:24.070" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T19:55:24.070" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T19:55:24.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27445" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-06T19:55:24.070" Score="0" Body="What components are compatible with what other components" OwnerUserId="15939" LastEditorUserId="15939" LastEditDate="2015-01-07T18:36:08.233" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T18:36:08.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16993" CreationDate="2015-01-06T21:13:24.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speed.  Without the complexity of gearing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were racing machines, pure and simple. There's one in the Glasgow transport museum with aerodynamic rim profile and flattened fork blades! I think it's about 20-21lbs, still quite respectable today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smooth ride of large wheels on rough roads was a plus, but the larger the wheel you could turn given your inside leg measurement, the faster you went.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK, gearing is still expressed as the diameter of the equivalent ungeared wheel - you'll turn a 100 inch gear going downhill...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gears would add weight, noise, complexity. Belts, friction, slip, lost energy. Chains ... OK, when the Reynolds chain was invented, it took over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But chain wasn't that revolutionary. All Reynolds added was a gap between rows of links, which could ride on sprockets (different sized sprockets, for speed multiplication).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That basic style of chain was centuries old by then, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.endstone.eu/Workshop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;in a form that blows the mind&lt;/a&gt; if you think about the implications of making it... that silver thread in the first photo is a chain, probably 0.2mm thick, with links about 0.5 by 1mm, assembled by hand. And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lastwindup.com/pdfs/Fusee_chain_repair.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;repaired by hand&lt;/a&gt; too. (Yes, that huge planetary object is a 1c piece)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a watch spring ran down, the chain transferred its pull to a larger diameter on the fusee cone, to keep the pull and the watches rate constant. If you think our engineering skills are that much better today, read it and weep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10954" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T21:13:24.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21077" CreationDate="2015-01-06T21:45:14.680" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was the seal on the Alfine Hub leaking. The local service agents for Spot were able to correct the leak by tightening the external seal on the hub and cleaning everything around it. No cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hub is currently performing well. I'm as worried about it as I was when I made the decision to buy it, a new model of anything so complicated is likely to have these issues. But credit is due; it has stayed smooth and quiet after many rides through rain &amp;amp; grit where I would have been disassembling and cleaning a cassette &amp;amp; derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update: see main article. Hub is currently leaking not in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="1914" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T00:02:53.367" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T00:02:53.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27411" CreationDate="2015-01-06T22:51:57.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possiblity is that the valve is clogged up from Slime (or other brand of puncture prevention fluid). Remove the valve core and inspect for debris clogging the valve opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15944" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T22:51:57.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27379" CreationDate="2015-01-07T02:08:52.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in similar situation. My solution (since my entire trip is 20 miles one way and only 3 miles are forest trail) is to bear the bumpiness (with stock carbonfork) by putting 700x 35 tires on Trek 7.5 FX which is a road bike biased hybrid. If you go with smaller wheels it gets bumpier. If you go with wider tires than you suffer on pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, as the elders say, if you want to shell out some $ (as opposed to getting decent used bike on Craigslist) buy a cyclocross bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15945" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T02:08:52.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27426" CreationDate="2015-01-07T07:18:51.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;BSOs (bicycle shaped objects) sold by department stores and discount bike retailers are often very poorly manufactured and assembled (both originally at the factory and then final assembly at the store). Missing bearings, overtightened cones, loose brakes, loose steering stems, loose pedals, loose quick releases, missing safety equipment, etc. are all par for the course. It's always safest to have your local (real) bike shop give a BSO or bike of unknown provenance the one over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-01-07T12:55:26.187" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T12:55:26.187" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28470" CreationDate="2015-01-07T12:54:19.237" Score="2" ViewCount="1353" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is related to my &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/27322/slx-chainring-compatibility&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; about SLX chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm half way through upgrading my drivetrain from 2x9 to 2x10.  I currently have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters: &lt;strong&gt;SL-M670-I&lt;/strong&gt; (10sp),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainset: &lt;strong&gt;FC-M665&lt;/strong&gt; (9sp double with bashguard),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear mech: &lt;strong&gt;RD-M675-GS&lt;/strong&gt; (10sp),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front mech: an old Deore 3x9 that doesn't play well with the other parts and needs replacing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to make this drivetrain work at as little cost as possible, and I have two concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I understand that, officially, the M665 chainset isn't 10sp-compatible, but people have reported (in &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/slx-crank-m660-m665-747651.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; and on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/category/components/cranksets/product/review-shimano-fcm665-slx-double-crankset-12-45714/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bikeradar&lt;/a&gt;) that it works fine.  Are there any complications in this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I shouldn't use the newer FD-M675 front mech because the chainline doesn't match that of the chainset I have (48.8mm and 46.8mm respectively).  That leaves me with the &lt;strong&gt;FD-M665&lt;/strong&gt; front mech, but will this be compatible with my shifters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/dyna-sys-10-speed-compatability-9-speed-shimano-systems-646014.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt; suggests that the 9sp front mech will work with the newer 10sp shifters.  Can anyone confirm or provide more information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In response to PeteH's comment&lt;/strong&gt;: In short, what I don't understand is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why exactly should the M665 chainset &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be 10sp-compatible, while the M660 is?  Are the chainrings too wide, and if so, why do people report that it works anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do the 665 and 675 front shifters have different cable pulls?  If not, is there any other reason I've missed why the front mech from one groupset might not be compatible with the shifter from the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the cable pull ratios are elusive and seem to be unpublished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="452" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T12:01:10.677" Title="9sp/10sp compatibility in Shimano SLX drivetrains" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4912" CreationDate="2015-01-07T17:42:16.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in USA and I've been riding right front since I got my first racing bike, a Torpado Nuovo Strada, in 1984.  It was set up that way by the mechanic at the shop I bought it at, he said that it was &quot;Italian style.&quot;. I think he'd watched Breaking Away too many times.  This mechanic said it was safer if you had to brake while holding a water bottle in your right hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back then most bikes had exposed brake cables so it was easy to see who else was right front and I noticed a lot of Italian pros' bikes were set up that way: Moser, Argentin, Gimondi, and Coppi. In Italy they drive on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other strange coincidence is that both UK and Italian motorcycles were right foot shift, most other countries were left foot shift.  That was until the US DOT required all bikes sold in the USA had to shift on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T17:42:16.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27426" CreationDate="2015-01-07T18:28:11.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I worked in a bike shop around 1990 assembling new bikes.  Adjusting the hubs was one of the steps we did.  They were typically too tight from the factory.  I never heard of missing balls, but I didn't look inside the hubs.  It sounds like someone didn't do their job at the original shop and at wherever the hubs were made.  We sold a lot of Giants, they were pretty new in the country then.  We would always peel off the little Made in Taiwan sticker off the headtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T18:28:11.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-07T18:49:07.047" Score="1" ViewCount="940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering the purchase of a fat bike with a Rock Shox Bluto Fork. This fork takes a 150x50mm Maxle Light and 150mm hub.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since winter is coming and I'll likely be riding in slop and sub-freezing temps which may affect shock performance and increase the amount of maintenance required, I would like to possibly run a rigid fork during the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any rigid forks (steel, aluminum, or carbon) on the market that will accept the 150mm hub standard or would I need to build a totally new front wheel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T18:49:07.047" Title="Rigid fork replacement for Rock Shox Bluto fat bike suspension fork?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;fatbike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-01-08T15:02:52.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27422" CreationDate="2015-01-07T21:54:17.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me expand on the answer provided by @Mac. There are two important concepts here that need to be unpacked, 1) endurance training when in a fasted state and 2) eating either before or during an endurance training ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your goal is improved fat metabolism, endurance training in a fasted state (e.g., 8 hours without food, no eating during exercise) shows larger gains than training under a fed state (i.e., eating either before or during exercise).  Eating carbohydrates at any point inhibits fat metabolism, if improving fat metabolism is your goal, then this is bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That said, I am also skeptical that prioritizing fat metabolism should be your training goal.  See below for more details.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of base (endurance) training is typically to improve the metabolic efficiency and recruitment of your &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skeletal_striated_muscle&quot;&gt;type 1 muscle fibres&lt;/a&gt;, the muscle fibres type with the greatest ability to perform endurance work.  Training &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be done by using slow long rides (&lt;a href=&quot;http://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/six-things-need-know-training-zones.html&quot;&gt;typical heart rate zone 2&lt;/a&gt;).  The low effort ensures most pedal force is generated by type 1 fibres and because type 1 muscle fibres generate the energy largely through fatty acid oxidation, your activity will be mostly powered by fat metabolism.  If you start heading out of zone 2 (harder effort) you will recruit more of your type 2a muscle fibres and start using glycogen and blood glucose to fuel muscle contraction (note some blood glucose is used even during fat metabolism, this point is important, see the bonking section) as well as accumulate a lactate debt (your mitochondria in your muscles will no longer be able to process the lactate within, dumping lactate into your blood stream).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Endurance training in a fasted state.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large number of  studies (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1464435/pdf/tjp0564-0649.pdf&quot;&gt;De Bock 2005&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://jap.physiology.org/content/104/4/1045&quot;&gt;De Bock 2008&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://jap.physiology.org/content/110/1/236&quot;&gt;Van Proeyen 2010&lt;/a&gt;) have show that consistent training in a fasted state (i.e., glycogen depleted state) can resulted in an increased capacity for muscles (type 1 and some evidence for type 2a) to oxidize fatty acids and as well as other health benefits (e.g., insulin response/glucose tolerance, reduced weight gain under higher energy diets) and other performance benefits (e.g., faster glycogen resynthesis see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1464435/pdf/tjp0564-0649.pdf&quot;&gt;De Bock 2005&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These same fat metabolism benefits were not obtained by individuals who were well fed with carbohydrates both before and during the exercise.  The fasted individuals had abstained from eating for 8 hours prior to the exercise regime and did not eat during.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the study individuals exercised between 1-2 hours at an output of about 175 W.  This part is key as the studies used shorter periods than the 2+ hours for your training plan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fat metabolism actually requires glucose to prime the reaction.  If you ride too long in the fasted state you will eventually run the risk running out of blood glucose you will feel the sensation called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hitting_the_wall&quot;&gt;hitting the wall&lt;/a&gt;&quot; or &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hitting_the_wall&quot;&gt;bonking&lt;/a&gt;.&quot;  Low blood glucose levels also affects neurological functioning, you can become light headed and will have trouble focusing.  Your muscle firing patterns will also deteriorate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As such you need to be very careful if trying to do prolonged endurance training in a fasted state.  The participates in the science experiments where carefully monitored during both the exercise and the recovery periods.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Eating while exercising?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gets us to your primary question of whether or not to eat.  If you are aiming to train in a fasted state, eating during exercise will also &lt;em&gt;inhibit&lt;/em&gt; the prioritization of fat metabolism (&lt;a href=&quot;http://jap.physiology.org/content/104/4/1045&quot;&gt;De Bock 2008&lt;/a&gt;).  This will be the same if you ingest carbohydrates prior to your ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Therefore if you want to maximize fat metabolism, exercise in zone 2 in a fasted state and don't eat carbohydrates either before or during.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Eating before exercise, but not during.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found any studies that test eating a meal before training, but riding without food (please correct me if I missed a study).  I suspect when you start out your body will prioritize glycogen, the switch to fat as your stores run low.  I am not clear how efficient the transition will occur or if you increase the probability of bonking.  Even if your body successfully made this transition, you would still have a smaller window of prioritized fat metabolism and therefore lower gains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;General Advice / Caveats&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion training in a fasted state is an advanced technique that should be done  carefully and under supervision and restricted to pro/elite athletes who know their body well and can intercept when something is going wrong (e.g., deterioration of muscle firing efficiency, bonking, etc).  If you insist on attempting to training in a fasted state, I suggest caring energy gels and food so that you can intervene if you start to bonk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of improving your fat metabolism, the theory is that this could help you reduce glycogen consumption during a race leaving you with more energy later in the game when decisive tactical maneuvers are often made.  While I am sure this is true, I think it may be over emphasized for most amateur athletes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also maintain your glycogen stores simply by regularly consuming carbohydrates during a race (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://jap.physiology.org/content/61/1/165&quot;&gt;Coyle et al 1986&lt;/a&gt;).  If you are at a Pro / Cat 1 level then better fat metabolism could give you an additional edge, but I am highly sceptical that athletes below this level will see real benefits over improved training volume and improved focus during training.  Both of these will be inhibited in a fasted state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-01-07T22:02:40.020" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T22:02:40.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27357" CreationDate="2015-01-08T09:33:23.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First let's think why this occured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is what would happen if one used the left pedal for the right crank and the right pedal for the left crank arm. You see the pedals are made so they screw in with the same rotation as the pedal spins (on forward motion of course). So as you press the pedal the pedal, even if not screwed in correctly, it would go inwards rather than outwards and fall off. Assuming you did not engage into crazy back-pedaling (en route or as the bike was standing which I do not think you did) it would only make sense that these pedals were placed right-left reversed. That would have the effect of what you are seeing i.e. the more you pedal the more they come off and eventually fall off. (Note your FSA Tempo crankset is alloy as I found online so the thread would not just go bad without special force as the one described above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to move on (assuming this is what happened) there are two possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- the threads on the crank arm are damaged and cannot hold the pedal (you say pedal seems ok) OR&#xA;2- the threads on the crank arm are  not so damaged and can hold the pedal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, avoid using anything out of the ordinary for your pedals. Even if nothing else you will probably end up with a permanent pedals/crankset bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out where you are at just place the pedals correctly this time (and using proper grease) tighten them but not with too much force. Examine and if it looks ok take your bike out for a careful spin on a level road. If it looks and sounds ok try a bit of uphill progressively. If everything stays in place for all the uphill you tried and no funny sounds (even ticks) can be heard when moving then you can start to carefully continue your rides. You probably saved the money for new crank arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not you only need the crank arms. Make a note of your BB-to-crank arm interface (most likely square tapered), BCD measurement and the length of the crankarms and hit ebay or LBS to get them they should be quite cheap if they are not carbon and are used. Avoid no-names. If price is ok you can get the whole crankset (in that case note your bike frame BB type e.g. BSA/road).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always be careful when riding especially a mended bike. Ride into different situations slowly and cautiously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15842" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T09:33:23.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24690" CreationDate="2015-01-08T09:57:12.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the arch rivals have a bit less &quot;wiggle room&quot; with cable tension released, than other brands but -- unless you want to run fat tires -- I think they're among the best V-brakes on the planet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16943" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T09:57:12.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27406" CreationDate="2015-01-08T18:21:50.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Road Bike&quot; is a pretty broad term, but let's assume we're talking about a bike designed for long-distance road riding and not criterium or even road racing—a category used to be called &quot;sport touring,&quot; but is now referred to as &quot;endurance racing.&quot; Current examples include bikes like the Trek Domane, Giant Defy and Specialized Roubaix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it depends somewhat upon what you mean by &quot;gravel racing.&quot; If you're referring to short events like Barry Roubaix that are at most a couple of hours, then a cyclocross bike would fit the bill as well as anything, especially if you already own one. The downside of using a cyclocross bike is that most are really designed for short, fast, off-road races and don't necessarily lend themselves well to all-day comfort or long, 40-mph descents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few cyclocross bikes that are designed to be less aggressive, and those are the ones that tend to turn up at gravel events. Current examples include the Trek Cronos and Boone, and the Surly Cross Check. The Niner RLT9 is marketed as a gravel bike but has a design that fits better into this category. My experience with this class of bike is that they require more effort to arrive at a good fit, and can feel more exciting than necessary on fast downhills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Gravel&quot; bikes aren't all alike either, but the ones that are different than cyclocross bikes feature a longer head tube (for more upright riding position), lower bottom bracket, more fork offset and slacker angles. The best current example is the Raleigh Tamland, but the All-City Space Horse is pretty close too, despite not being marketed as a gravel bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, the best thing about &quot;gravel&quot; bikes coming into style is that they're actually good for a very wide variety of surfaces and emphasize comfort over raciness. Not limiting a ride to one specific type of road opens up a lot more riding opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T18:21:50.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28460" CreationDate="2015-01-08T19:47:24.150" Score="7" ViewCount="5530" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I take my bicycle indoors, and there's snow, ice, etc on it, the snow melts and the water runs onto the floor. Long-term water damage to rugs is an issue, and I don't want to leave the bicycle outside, due to fear of it being stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any trays or the like that will collect the melted water and preclude it from getting onto my rug? Extra points if they're cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16949" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T02:49:03.063" Title="Indoor bicycle tray to preclude the rug from getting wet" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;&lt;parking&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28458" CreationDate="2015-01-08T20:48:09.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a Garden Centre, they usually sell a range of trays and they should have something suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example would be this &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garlandproducts.com/giant-plus-garden-tray-black.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Giant Plus Garden Tray&lt;/a&gt;&quot; which at 120cm x 55cm should be big enough to place a bike on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WAYB2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Garden Tray&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T20:48:09.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28458" CreationDate="2015-01-08T22:39:30.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grandparents used to cover their entry way carpets with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/p/ES-Robbins-Clear-27-in-x-10-ft-Vinyl-Ribbed-Runner-184013/204590651?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-204590651-_-N&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vinyl carpet protector&lt;/a&gt; in the winter. The nice thing about this is that you can roll it up for storage when you aren't using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpeoP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T22:39:30.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28458" CreationDate="2015-01-09T00:40:02.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the cheaper side, a tarp or a vinyl tablecloth should do the trick, and be more easily tidied away and stored. Even a decent-weight shower curtain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T00:40:02.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28466" CreationDate="2015-01-09T01:32:38.177" Score="3" ViewCount="1104" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sivacycle.com/products/atom.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Atom&lt;/a&gt; is a bike electricity generator made by Siva cycle and launched via kickstarter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was curious about how this generator compares to others (eg. hub dynamo/generators) in the market in terms of efficiency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting from the siva cycle &lt;a href=&quot;http://sivacycle.com/about/faq.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much resistance does the Atom add to riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The resistance is very small, and is proportional to how large your charging load is. At full generating capacity, it is akin to riding with your tires at 70 psi instead of 90 psi, or pedaling up a 0.3% grade. In our use around town, it is very difficult to tell that it’s on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the full load on the generator implies drawing 1A of current through the USB port at 5V so thats 5W of output assuming perfect voltage conversion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to calculate the efficiency of this generator using the above information?&#xA;How much power would 0.3% grade take away compared to 0% grade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16952" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T21:45:58.293" Title="How can we calculate the efficiency of the Siva Cycle Atom generator?" Tags="&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25965" CreationDate="2015-01-09T01:50:07.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My old JVC Addixion (XA1) recording at 1080P (30FPS) doesn't get the trick done at any useful distance.  There are a number of higher resolution cameras coming out now and I'm thinking about upgrading for just that reason.  I'm currently leaning towards the GoPro Hero4 Silver because it'll record 2.7k at 30fps, and it's not as expensive as the couple of 4k cameras that just came onto the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If money was no object, I'd probably go for the new Sony FDR-X1000V/W, although they don't say what the battery life is on that guy yet, which could be a deal-breaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I picked up a GoPro Hero4 Silver a few weeks ago, and recording at 2.7k (2704x1520) 30fps I can pick out license plate numbers regularly in daylight.  At nighttime they're still not very readable because the bright license plate reflecting my head light washes out the dark numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16941" LastEditorUserId="16941" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T13:02:11.117" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T13:02:11.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28458" CreationDate="2015-01-09T02:49:03.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a few cardboard boxes taped together with gaffer's tape.  The tape is waterproof.  2 layers of cardboard (staggered at edges if you're using small boxes) is plenty to make it through a season.  Use the box edges up against a wall to prevent splatter.  If you have uneven floors and the water rolls off of the boxes, fold an edge over to cause it to be shimmed up a bit, keeping the water on top of the cardboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My heavily used cardboard is due for replacing now that we've had quite a bit of snow.  No leakage on the hardwood underneath it though, for a few years now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwtBZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bicycle Cardboard Pad&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I could find one again... I used to have a plastic shipping pallet that was rectangular with a solid bottom and a decent lip on it (3&quot; or so).  I would put cardboard inside (like those cat cardboard circle things) to soak up water, and then the bike on top.  That way there is a guaranteed solid base, and you can still throw away the cardboard layer taking all the road gunk with it.  This might work with Tom's idea if you can find a tray that's deep enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6269" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T02:49:03.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28463" CreationDate="2015-01-09T04:16:47.877" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking 100kg of bike plus rider up a 0.3% grade generates a retarding force of 100kg*g*0.003=3N.  At 24 km/hr=20/3 m/s that is 20 watts.  If that is generating 1A at 5V, the efficiency is 25%.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I picked numbers that were easy to calculate with.  But I believe this is all marketingspeak and you shouldn't trust the numbers to an order of magnitude.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note this claims the efficiency doubles if you slow to 12 kph. I suspect the efficiency is roughly constant and either the force decreases or the current available increases as you speed up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastEditorUserId="10998" LastEditDate="2015-01-09T17:12:01.107" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T17:12:01.107" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28468" CreationDate="2015-01-09T10:21:09.327" Score="0" ViewCount="1560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a full SRAM Rival groupset from 2011.  Having used it in humid and rainy places for a while, most of the parts are OK, but the small button-head screws (or bolts?) in the QR pivot for the brake calipers are quite rusty.  I guess the quality of these screws was somehow not up to the standard of the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, I'm talking about a single screw per brake, whose head faces forward on the front brake, and backward on the rear brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, SRAM's maintenance guides do not call out these screws or dimension them in any way.  How can they be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T03:41:30.343" Title="SRAM Rival brake caliper screws/bolts are rusty, how to replace?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;&lt;rust&gt;&lt;corrosion&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28467" CreationDate="2015-01-09T10:21:09.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can answer this question myself, having removed the screws, measured them, ordered replacements, got the wrong size, and so on.  So other people can learn the easy way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screws (or bolts?) are M4x6 button-head.  The threaded portion is actually slightly longer than the nominal 6mm on my set, closer to 7mm.  But if you buy M4x8 screws you will find that they do not fit, because while the hole they thread into is plenty deep, it seems to be untapped beyond a certain depth.  So 7mm is the absolute maximum threaded length for these screws, and you should buy M4x6.  I chose titanium ones, but stainless would be fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to follow what I did, you should also see my follow-up question which describes how a tiny ball bearing will fly out of your brakes if you allow the QR mechanism to come apart when you remove the screw: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/28700/1464&quot;&gt;What size is the tiny ball bearing used in SRAM brake caliper quick release detents?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T03:41:30.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27307" CreationDate="2015-01-09T11:02:03.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To setup bicycle computer you need to find out circumstance of your wheel in mm. Most reliable way I know is the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enter some approximate value and call it c0 (circumstance initial)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drive some track of well known length, athletic course, rowing track, 100km ride, anything that has some length and you know long it is. let's call this value dA (distance actual). Make sure that your tires are inflated properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;read distance measured by your computer with initial value, and call it dM (distance measured)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now you can calculate actual circumstance cA as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;cA = (dA * c0) / dM&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T11:02:03.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28447" CreationDate="2015-01-09T12:01:10.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The difference in chain width between 9s and 10s is less than 1mm so it won't make much of a difference once the mech is adjusted correctly. I have M660 on my bike and M665 on brother's bike and they aren't so much different, so if 10s is proven to work on one, it should work on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Front shifters have the same cable pull, but front derailleurs have different travel rate between 9s and 10s. Therefore if you want to use a 10s shifter with a 9s crank it's actually better to use a 9s derailleur. Although both would work, a 9s would be more accurate in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T12:01:10.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-09T17:30:30.047" Score="6" ViewCount="3642" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are tubeless mountain bike tire systems appropriate for winter riding in below freezing temperatures?  Is there a low temperature limit that I should avoid riding in?  Does the cold affect performance of the sealants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T14:12:42.997" Title="Are tubeless mountain bike tire systems appropriate for winter riding?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28471" CreationDate="2015-01-09T17:34:32.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this link Stans is good up to -30 F&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/Sealant-C14.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stans Sealant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Special anti-freeze agents allow the sealant to be used in&#xA;  environments as cold as -30° F.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A comment asked about -40 F.  Would it seal a puncture?  I don't know. &#xA;I imagine you can go a bit past -30 F and sealing performance would degrade.&#xA;At some point it would out right freeze and then for sure it would not seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the MSDS the freezing point is -20 F. &#xA;Which does not make sense with the -30 F use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/literature/NoTubesGHSmsds_5_9_2012-1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MSDS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for appropriate for winter. If you want to ride at low pressure then yes. &#xA;Your winter riding may differ from your summer riding.&#xA;Rock gardens may be covered in snow. &#xA;Swapping out tires on a tubeless is a LOT more more work. &#xA;If you ride different tires from summer to winter then factor that in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-01-10T14:34:52.303" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T14:34:52.303" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5558" CreationDate="2015-01-09T18:29:06.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm switching to the Schwalbe marathon pro. I've got a tricycle, with the cargo hold in the front rather than the back. I take 200 pounds of music gear out and play regularly. Getting a flat would be crucial. The back tire isn't quite as important, since there's no weight when I'm not sitting on it, so the trike could still be walked home easily as long as the front tires don't go. Recently on COLD Canadian roads here in Toronto, I flatted out the back tire, changed it since it was bald to a Schwalbe Marathon. After flatting out again this time on the FRONT not the new BACK tire, I realized all the salt and other crap in the bike lane is so self defeating without these better tires, so I've decided to park it for a few weeks, and order a pair of the Schwalbe Marathon PLUS for the front. I found a better price and it's almost the same price as the back tire was, which obviously the bike stores MARK UP those prices by about ten bucks to give them some profit. Now I realize how bike stores stay in business during the off months. SALT. Caked 2 feet high, as sharp as glass and on a cold day, no match for a decaying regular tire. NOT EVEN CLOSE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16958" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T18:29:06.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28471" CreationDate="2015-01-09T22:43:20.463" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of my winter rides are tubeless now.  I have successfully used tubeless setups with Stan's at -40F.  Many other riders in my area have used them extensively and without issue at temperatures well below zero.  Stan's happens to be the fluid used by my LBS, but I am sure there are others that work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hard part is getting the initial seal to work properly on fat tires.  If they don't fail on the initial ride, they are just as reliable as in warmer temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T22:43:20.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28479" CreationDate="2015-01-10T12:09:14.753" Score="18" ViewCount="98612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm willing to buy a 2015 Shimano 105 groupset and i have got 2 options in choosing the cassette, the first is 11-32 and the other is 12-25. I have  no idea what these numbers indicate and which one would be more suitable for me knowing that i'am still a beginner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2018-07-17T09:49:26.983" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T09:49:26.983" Title="What is the meaning of 11-32 cassette and 12-25 cassette?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28477" CreationDate="2015-01-10T12:18:37.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Numbers denote number of teeth on smallest cog i.e. 11-32 has smallest cog with 11 teeth, and largest with 32 teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11-32 gives you larger range of transmission ratios while 12-25 gives you smoother steps between the speeds. When calculating which one to choose also take into account number of teeth you have in front, and the kind of terrain you would like to drive. Also make sure your rear derailleur has capacity to consume chain slack for your given combination&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T12:18:37.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28477" CreationDate="2015-01-10T12:23:25.130" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you imagine a cassette, will have a bunch of sprockets on it. The current 105 range (which came out last year) will have 11 sprockets, the earlier 105 had 10 sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The notation you've noticed simply means that for one of these cassettes, the smallest sprocket has 11 teeth, the largest has 32 teeth. And the second cassette has smallest sprocket 12 teeth, largest sprocket 25 teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So these numbers are basically the &quot;range&quot; of gears covered by a cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might imagine that a large range (e.g. 11-32) is good, as it would give you lots of teeth to climb steep hills, but also a small cog which you can use to power downhill. And this is correct, but there is also a flip-side. A larger range of sprockets means that there can sometimes be a jump of a few teeth between each sprocket, which can be less smooth when changing gear. Hence, if you don't actually &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; the large range, a smaller range would give you a smoother ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As regards which one you should choose, it's not really down to whether you're a beginner or not, more to do with how good a climber you are. If you feel you might struggle going uphill, a 32-tooth sprocket is probably going to be a good choice for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to remember is that, when you're thinking about gears, the cassette is only half of the story, the other half being the cranks. The number of chainrings, and the number of teeth on each chainring, will also affect the gear range and smoothness. But that's probably a different question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-01-10T12:40:28.737" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T12:40:28.737" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-10T14:34:15.773" Score="5" ViewCount="5020" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been fluctating in temperature between 0F and 20F in my area. I've been riding my 1x9 geared mountain bike to and from work. However, due to the cold weather, I'm having issues shifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that I can typically shift in to an larger cog, but my derailleur is unresponsive when I shift to a smaller cog. I think this is because when shifting to a larger cog, the cable is pulled by the shifter, however for the smaller cog, the derailleur would be moved back by spring pressure and due to the cold conditions, it's not strong enough to fight the frozen gunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to keep my bike shifting in the cold? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T15:36:31.213" Title="How to prevent shifting issues due to derailleur or cables freezing in cold weather" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-10T15:19:53.223" Score="5" ViewCount="1043" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't remove the key, or open, my brand new Kryptonite lock. I can twiddle the key with about 60 degrees of movement from current position; and have attempted every movement I can think of. Have tried putting a drop of lubricant in to see if it would help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zcLlC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kryptonite lock&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: was impossible to remove the key, so it got sent back to the retailer for a refund. I would never buy a Kryptonite lock again, if it had been on my bike this would have been a complete disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16964" LastEditorUserId="16964" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T11:39:19.873" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T04:06:18.220" Title="Removing key from kryptonite lock" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-10T19:01:23.503" Score="2" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the road shoes I've found only seem to be rated to around 25° or so. Living in New England I'd like something colder. Does anyone know of road shoes rated for colder temps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(They'll be used for commuting and weekend road rides)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I have new Neoprene booties (Pearl Izumi Elite Barrier Shoe Cover) but find that they're only comfortable down to about 25°F or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14299" LastEditorUserId="14299" LastEditDate="2015-01-10T21:11:01.387" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T19:14:13.833" Title="Which winter road cycling shoes are rated for sub-15° F weather?" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-01-12T19:15:12.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28483" CreationDate="2015-01-10T19:49:01.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back when I did winter riding in Minnesota (in temps down to 0F), I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1082829_-1_400094__400094&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;neoprene booties&lt;/a&gt; over my regular cycling shoes.  These kept the feet warm and also kept out moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time I was using regular &quot;toe clip&quot; pedals, so no shoe cleats, but reputedly one could use the things with cleats by cutting out the bottom around the cleat (though obviously losing some moisture resistance in the process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another useful thing is &quot;toe warmers&quot; -- small chemical packs kind of like drug desiccant packs which produce heat in response to oxygen and moisture.  These are available at stores selling hunting and camping goods, and some stores selling to folks who work outside a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T19:49:01.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-11T00:25:20.360" Score="1" ViewCount="18205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just brought the Trek Fuel ex8 (on Christmas) and already the back brake is squeaking. Also both the front and back are not very sensitive and are not stopping the bike very well. I've looked on youtube how to tighten them but there not really giving me a direct answer. Any help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16965" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2015-01-21T19:39:03.433" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T19:39:03.433" Title="How do you tighten Shimano disc brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28486" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-11T01:55:32.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brompton.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brompton&lt;/a&gt; is a famous and popular folding bicycle from the UK which is said to have the smallest dimensions when being folded. It has 16&quot; wheels and three folding joints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its community is so big that there are even &lt;a href=&quot;http://bwc.brompton.com/bnc/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;national&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://bwc.brompton.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;international competitions&lt;/a&gt;. The races have a Le-Mans-like start, i.e. the participants need to run to their folded bicycle after the starting shot and then unfold it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also competitions in folding the bicycle. Record in 2014 was 7.19 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike is another brand, like [bike-friday] or [tern] or [dahon] then use that tag.  Or if its more generic then [folding-bicycle] is a suitable tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14691" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-01-20T02:34:56.773" LastActivityDate="2020-01-20T02:34:56.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28487" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-11T01:55:32.847" Score="0" Body="Brompton is a popular brand of folding bicycle designed and manufactured in the UK." OwnerUserId="14691" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-01-11T08:04:55.420" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T08:04:55.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8032" CreationDate="2015-01-11T02:50:47.320" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;use a incandescent lightbulb 60-100watt underneath the bikes and a moisture absorber called damp rid works, I got 2 Harley's in my 6 by12 trailer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16966" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T02:50:47.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28485" CreationDate="2015-01-11T08:02:35.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Batman's advice is good. Take it to the shop if you're unsure.&#xA;However, if the pads are new they need to be broken in, so the braking should improve after some use (if properly adjusted). Do some hard braking on every downhill for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16943" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T08:02:35.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21101" CreationDate="2015-01-11T11:16:34.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my Cruzbike Silvio to work every day on busy, bumpy roads.  I have been doing this for about six months.  It seems almost as stable as my Hpvelotechnik Grasshopper, which is totally stable.  I have been riding that for years.  the Silvio seems to be getting more stable as my mileage increases.  My commute includes an off-road short-cut which the Silvio handles well.  Some people can ride these bikes no-hands, steering with their legs.  I have not mastered this yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search for Flevobike.  These have their steering pivot-point just in front of the seat.  Their handlebars are fixed - they are purely leg-steered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16968" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T11:16:34.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5916" CreationDate="2015-01-11T17:16:49.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Youtube there are two-wheel 'bents on serious trails.  I have two 'bents.  I ride off-road, slightly bumpy, on both.  I think the one with 20inch wheels is more comfortable off-road than the 29inch one.  The 20inch one has mountain-bike suspension at both ends.  That helps a lot.  Lots of 'bents have that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16968" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T17:16:49.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2015-01-11T20:55:45.570" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slicks are unsafe period. Urban environments throw up too many variables, manhole covers, white lines (made from small beads of glass for Pete's sake) copper commemoration plaques, drains, silky smooth concrete ramps/flats that a ground worker has forgotten to etch into and of course tarmac itself. The list probably goes on because it doesn't even have to rain to make tarmac damp, condensation does the same trick. Having come off a racer fitted with slicks and broken my collar bone I advise a tyre with knobbly bits that engage with tarmac's pitted surface. Oh and wear a helmet, I hit my head hard and probably have my collar bone to thank for taking most of the impact first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16976" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T20:55:45.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2015-01-11T21:52:57.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that riding in the wet is generally more risky than riding in the dry since things are indeed slipperier than in the dry. Relatively innocuous things in the dry become hazardous in the wet regardless of your tire type (such as wet leaves). Wet also is accompanied by oil in many cases on the road, especially if rain hasn't washed the oil from the cars off the road yet. Stopping distance goes up, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many racing bikes tend to have sensitive and twitchy steering/geometries, so they aren't great in the wet since they are not easy to control to begin with (even in the dry). But this is a function of the bike itself, not the tires primarily. Note that some control of speed and riding style will help here (riding like a racer means taking risks like a racer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a summary of a recent article by Leonard Zinn in &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/05/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-tire-grip-wet-conditions_328827&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VeloNews&lt;/a&gt; on the subject (with responses from major tire manufacturers) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#tread&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's advice&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You can't hydroplane (bicycle tires are too thin and high pressure for this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Slick is best in the dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Tread is effectively aesthetic on road tires (Specialized argues for a tread pattern of &amp;lt; 0.2 mm, but the pattern doesn't matter according to them, Challenge argues for a particular pattern, Continental says they are effectively aesthetic, Vittoria wants you to have tread [ but remember, they all want to sell you a new tire! ]). The road is rough providing the grip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Things that matter: Softness of the tire/compound, reduced tire pressure, higher tire width, rider weight to get a nice big contact patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T21:52:57.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28501" CreationDate="2015-01-12T07:00:54.977" Score="1" ViewCount="868" Body="&lt;p&gt;My road bike has Shimano &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dual-pivot caliper brakes&lt;/a&gt; like these.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScLnB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I remove or refit the mudguards, or even sometimes just getting the wheel out, they seem to go slightly off-centre, by which I mean rotated around the mounting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of this is that, when the brakes are applied one pad contacts the rim before the other. Looking carefully the wheel also moves a little to the left or right as one pad pushes it to the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to rotate the brakes so that both pads contact the rim at the same time to minimise this movement, but as the act of tightening the mounting screw also rotates the brakes slightly, this is tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is - does it matter much if one pad makes contact slightly before the other? What are the likely effects of it doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T09:29:27.883" Title="How important is centring dual-pivot brakes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28499" CreationDate="2015-01-12T07:06:52.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter a lot if it's slightly off.  But you should be able to center the calipers by hand, even after the mounting bolt is tightened.  Just grasp the two brake arms firmly and rotate the entire caliper a bit (with no pressure applied to the brake lever).  In my experience this is usually sufficient to get the caliper centered enough.  Riding for a while will sometimes help center them as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T07:06:52.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28499" CreationDate="2015-01-12T09:08:15.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The danger of this is your rim may begin to rub the brake pad – especially when you put in hard out-of-the-saddle efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, if your caliper has become off-centre then one pad will have come closer to the rim and the other will have come further away. You should simply be able to push and rotate the caliper by hand back into a central position without loosening (or tightening) the retaining nut. Pull the brake lever a couple of times and if the caliper does not return to a central position, your brake requires balancing i.e. one pad is moving more than the other towards the rim and causing them not to touch the rim at the same time. The other effect of this is it may cause the caliper to rest off-centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a small balancing (tensioning) screw on top of the caliper. Turn this left or right until both pads move the same amount to the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T09:29:27.883" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T09:29:27.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28485" CreationDate="2015-01-12T09:19:28.187" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trek Fuel ex8 - has hydraulic disc brakes.&#xA;Hydraulic disc brakes do not require adjusting - they are self-adjusting.&#xA;In that, as the pad wears - the distance between pad and disc is adjusted automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The squeaking and squealing of disc brakes is a common complaint.&#xA;My first advice would be to &#xA;- bed the pads in&#xA;- make sure the discs and pads are clean (small contaminants - especially oil will cause serious braking problems)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bed the pads in by taking the bicycle up a long hill and coasting back down whilst lightly dragging the brakes. This causes the discs to heat up and bed the pads in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic disc brakes should have a &quot;snappy&quot; feel to them. If contaminated - they will lose power.&#xA;If you have dropped any oil (even the smallest amount) onto the disc caliper - clean the pads and rotor thoroughly. Pads will have to be removed and can be baked (facing down) in the oven on top of grease proof paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T09:19:28.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28477" CreationDate="2015-01-12T09:52:55.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smoother steps between the gears is a nice to have - but if the gearing is not suitable to you - it becomes irrelevant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's mentioned in the answer above &quot;rear derailleur has capacity&quot;. This refers to the the length of the cage on the rear derrailleur. They come in three varieties (with Shimano anyway) - short, medium and long. Each length has a specified teeth capacity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The teeth capacity required is calculated as the total difference between smallest and largest sprockets on both chainset and cassette.&#xA;ie. 50/34 with a 28/11 is 33t - check with the manufacturer but iirc this is a medium cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(to complicate things - you can always squeeze a few extra teeth beyond the manufacturer's suggestion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T09:52:55.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27387" CreationDate="2015-01-12T10:52:46.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As previously stated - the mileage you have done - should not affect the gear change. &#xA;Your drive-train is still very young.&#xA;Check the cabling - in particular the gear cabling entering the lever. The newer 105 (5700 onwards) use under bar tape cabling. In some cases - I have seen the inner gear cabling can end up being pulled through the gear ferrule cap. This will cause the unreliable shifting you are describing.&#xA;It will need replacement of the section of gear cable from lever only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T10:52:46.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-12T14:34:12.597" Score="1" ViewCount="3841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started the debate with my brother asking him, &quot;If you had to do a 20km ride around a circle I.e at the end of your ride you arrive at the same place you started, would you rather cycle on a flat or have uphills and downhills to get the best time?&quot; To this he answered &quot;I would rather cycle on uphills and downhills, mainly because I have time to recover on the downhills.&quot; I said that I'd rather go on a flat because you burn out faster on the uphill than you recover on the downhill since the time spent going down is considerably shorter. Id like to hear from the community on which side of the debate they stand and why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: someone please edit my tags I have no idea which to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16983" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T14:51:22.187" Title="Uphills and downhills vs a flat" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28505" CreationDate="2015-01-12T15:10:04.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16253/why-arent-average-speeds-computed-over-distance&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; explains that if you travel on uneven ground, your average speed drops. This is because you spend more time in the slow climbs and less time in the fast descents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T15:10:04.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28505" CreationDate="2015-01-12T15:16:38.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Isn't standing out of the saddle for a hill less efficient than riding on the flat (assuming someone less than a seasoned pro)?  &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/standing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon says so.&lt;/a&gt; If so the average efficiency is worse on the hilly route and for the same input it would be slower.  Of course as the hills become less steep the efficiency tends towards the flat case - there may be some sweet spot but on the whole I doubt it.  Also drag is an issue - on a circular flat route in constant wind you will lose to headwinds more than you gain from tailwinds.&#xA;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-pZ1ubTOGTtNjJjMTM3NWItZDRkMi00YmJiLWEzM2EtNTUzZDM4YzY3YmRl/edit?pli=1Found?suri=wuid:gx:6c505b0fc83a76f6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;detailed treatment of the wind effects by Osman Isvan&lt;/a&gt; is worth a read.&#xA;Applying the effects of the headwind caused by riding to a route of alternating uphill (slow) and downhill (fast) sections, and given that the power lost to the wind goes with the cube of the speed you will again lose more power on the fast stretches than you gain on the slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only approximated the maths in my head but would conclude that a flat route is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently you should even consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/slope-wind.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;slope wind&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T15:16:38.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28505" CreationDate="2015-01-12T16:06:35.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you are going to doubt this but the average of 10 and 30 is 15.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume a 30 mile ride at 15 mph for a total of 2 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now 15 miles uphill at 10 mph for 1.5 hours and 30 mph downhill for .5 hours for a total of 2 hours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wind resistance  hill versus flat&lt;br&gt;&#xA;c is constant&lt;br&gt;&#xA;a is frontal area&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wind resistance is proportional to the velocity squared  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(1.5 * c * a * 10 * 10) + (.5 * c * a * 30 * 30)   &#xA;/&#xA;2 * c * a * 15 * 15    &#xA;&#xA;= &#xA;&#xA;(1.5 * 10 * 10) + (.5 * 30 * 30)   &#xA;/  &#xA;2 * 15 * 15  &#xA;&#xA;=&#xA;&#xA;4 / 3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to achieve the same net time you would expend 1/3 more energy on wind resistance with split speeds &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Energy to climb up and down the hill is a wash &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same wind resistance as the split the flat could be about 17 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_%28physics%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Drag (physics)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="23433" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T01:28:47.803" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T01:28:47.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28505" CreationDate="2015-01-12T16:06:55.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the trainer Frederic Grappe (FDJ team) had a good answer. He would rather an uphill and downhill into the wind than a flat into the wind because you would waste more effort battling the wind compared to the hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise on a circular course flat will be quicker due to frictional losses on the slow climb and increased wind losses on the descent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8656" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T16:06:55.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28483" CreationDate="2015-01-12T16:56:38.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vast majority of cycling shoes (road and mountain) are well ventilated and not suitable for cold weather riding.  Lake makes an excellent winter boot (I have several pairs).  45NRTH makes the Wolvhammer, which I haven't tried, but have heard good things about.  There isn't a market for cold weather &quot;road&quot; shoes since generally road bikes become unsafe/unuseable after there is ice/snow on the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as getting the most out of the footwear you are using, I recommend NOT putting thick socks in your summer shoes.  Most people's summer riding shoes are close fitting, and adding extra thicker socks make keeping your feet warm harder since it compresses your blood vessels and restricts circulation.  If you can't stay warm with normal socks and booties / chem packs, you may need to look at purchasing a set of winter shoes with extra room for thicker socks.  My summer shoes are all 44s.  For winter, my shoes/boots are all 46s and 48s.  The 48s allow me room for two thick pairs of socks comfortably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to using chemical heater packs, I suggest sticking them to the top toe of your shoe under the bootie.  The won't compress your toes that way and will get better air circulation / stay warmer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T17:10:55.043" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T17:10:55.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28483" CreationDate="2015-01-12T18:19:34.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;15 F and even moderate bike speeds means a wind chill that is at best 0 F, and in any ambient wind ( and there is always wind in the winter ) and it gets to -10 F. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem may not be enough insulation in the shoes, but not enough insulation altogether. Due to the way the body reacts to cold temps the feet and hands are the first to feel the cold. Sometimes the right way to keep your feet warm is to put on a jacket. Insulation on your hands and feet can help, but if core is not warm enough, they don't do much good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard exercise in those temps is difficult because it's very easy to overdress and sweat out your layers. Too much insulation can eventually make you colder and not enough means you can't keep your hands and feet warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, overboots seem like a good idea to me. &#xA;40 Below makes overboots that are generally well regarded and they even have a pair that can be easily adapted to bike shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.40below.com/products_detail.php?ProductID=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;40 Below Overboots&quot;&gt;Fourty Below Overboots&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T18:19:34.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28483" CreationDate="2015-01-12T19:14:13.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://45nrth.com/products/footwear/wolvhammer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;45Nrth Wolvhammer&lt;/a&gt; I have several friends who have been using them on to ride their fat bikes on cold snowy days and love them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13925" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T19:14:13.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25456" CreationDate="2015-01-12T22:17:18.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try re-pairing the 510 with the speed/cadence sensor.  It seems like it's not connected and the speed data is coming from the GPS rather than the sensor.  As suggested by others, the alignment of the speed/cadence sensor is important, but it must be close since you seem to get a little cadence data before it drops out.  Perhaps it's too close and your crank or spoke magnet has actually bumped the sensor and pushed it away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did have a similar thing happen with my Edge 500, and re-pairing the sensor seemed to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T22:17:18.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28516" CreationDate="2015-01-12T23:26:16.383" Score="1" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up what looks to be a late 80's Columbia 'USA Racing' Women's city bike on Craigslist recently. It needs a new 5 speed freewheel, but I can't seem to figure out which remover tool to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The freewheel center has 12 slots, and is 22-23mm in diameter (best guess is 22.25mm). I happen to have the FR-1.2 and FR-5 and both don't fit (too big).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, can anyone suggest a decent freewheel for this bike for around $15? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46d7v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Columbia USA Racing Women&amp;#39;s Bike&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3P5mp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Original Freewheel&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/79JuI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Manufacturer&amp;#39;s Logo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16985" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T12:40:53.903" Title="Which freewheel remover tool to use on vintage Columbia bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28515" CreationDate="2015-01-13T00:58:38.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're basically going to have to do &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freewheel-destructive-removal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;destructive freewheel removal&lt;/a&gt; on that. As for which freewheel to choose, check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html#threading&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;threading&lt;/a&gt; when you get it off, and buy a 5 speed freewheel (chances are any 5 speed freewheel you have is ISO threaded and will probably work). The only company that I know of that still makes them is Sunrace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-01-13T01:13:37.470" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T01:13:37.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28505" CreationDate="2015-01-13T04:16:43.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the how steep the hills are and how long they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In theory, riding on the flat should be faster.&lt;/strong&gt; But in my experience undulating terrain is the fastest. Let me explain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using maths you can easily see that what effects your time over a course (hence your average speed) the most is how long you spend at lower speeds. So to set a quicker time we should improve our time on the slowest sections first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the road is flat then that is hard. When the hills too steep and long it is hard also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when the hills are short enough that I can power up them, then with extra energy expenditure I can maintain a good speed. This is psychologically aided by being able see the top and know the effort is short term. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, after passing the crest, comes the important bit, and this is why the hills have to be short and not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; steep: apply power on the way down also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the downhill is followed by a flat section then by maintaining the effort level that speed can be maintained for many minutes. But if the downhill is followed quickly by another short hill, then the speed can be used to attack the next hill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So too steep and long means &lt;em&gt;too steep to climb quickly&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example is a long shallow climb I do here. It averages only about 2% and so I can ride at about 25kph. Then I come to a 600m section which descends at over 7% then climbs at over 9%. Overall, the section rises at an average of 5%, but I average 32kph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's psychological. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T09:54:38.793" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T09:54:38.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28515" CreationDate="2015-01-13T12:40:53.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take it to your favorite IBD- they can explain and illustrate much better. They might even show you how to do a destructive freewheel removal! Since bikes age in &quot;dog years&quot;, and the correct tool to remove it (thick -boss Shimano) hasn't been made since the '90's), your shop may not have the correct tool unless they have been around for a while. IBD freewheel removal should be about $5 or so plus freewheel, if you bring just the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16987" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T12:40:53.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28521" CreationDate="2015-01-13T13:33:51.690" Score="0" ViewCount="2293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike that's now about 18 months old. At the 12 month mark I took it for its first annual service. Since then there's been a problem with the front wheel coming out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had the wheel re-trued a couple of times since the service now, it seems to need doing about once every 2 months. Obviously this regular attention is not a normal requirement for a wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the normal period of time that you'd expect to pass between wheel alignment/spoke adjustment work?&lt;/strong&gt; I'm riding the bike probably 20 miles a week on average on the road, with occasional weekend trips off-road. The wheel's gone out of true at least once without an off-road trip since the previous truing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T10:11:42.980" Title="How long between spoke adjustments on a mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28481" CreationDate="2015-01-13T15:36:31.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean and dry (hair-dryer) the derailleur. Relube. Check. If necessary take out the cables, chase the water from the housings by pressing thin oil with a syringe. Put the cables back in or replace with new ones. It's always a good idea to change the cables before winter if you've been riding through rain in the good season. And change them again at the beginning of the good season!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T15:36:31.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28519" CreationDate="2015-01-13T16:17:55.467" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A well built wheel should go years without needed truing. If you are truing the wheel every 2 months something is wrong with the build. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no way to know via the internet, but my guess is that it's one of two things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rim is bent slightly and requires significantly uneven tension in the spokes to get &#xA;the rim true. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There isn't enough tension in the wheel overall to keep the wheel true. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to diagnose this is to get a spoke tensiometer and measure the tension in the spokes, since the wheel is slightly offset to compensate for the braking disk, one side will have slightly higher tension than the other, but the spokes on any given side should be roughly equal. The rim should have a maximum spoke tension rating and the closer you &#xA;can get the wheel to that the stronger and more stable the build will be. Most rims are rated to at least 100kg of tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good wheelbuilder will have the spoke tension meter in his toolkit. They are relatively expensive and require some practice to get accurate readings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T16:17:55.467" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28524" CreationDate="2015-01-13T21:32:05.093" Score="11" ViewCount="2731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not cycled much recently, done a few 30 mile rides in 2012 on mostly flat but nothing since and am out of shape now, not that I was in shape then!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is a hardtail, but on road tyres. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to start riding regularly from now, starting off with an easy 10 mile trip on the red routes, and slowly stepping it up every week to do more miles/inclines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to cycle from Milton Keynes to just south of Manchester, total 150 miles, spread over 3 days so about 50 miles a day. It looks to be a good chunk of national routes, and very few inclines all the way, so I think it's a good goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now a 50 mile mostly flat ride is fairly easy I'd say, I could do it pretty soon but it'd be hard and I wouldn't be up for riding again the next day. How long should I plan to wait before undertaking the task? I know it's hard to put a time frame on it as everyone is different, so I guess a better question is at what point should I be before attempting it? I.e. what should I be able to do cycling wise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16990" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-01-14T10:04:12.007" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T10:05:02.860" Title="How long does it take to be ready for a multi day ride as a newbie?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28522" CreationDate="2015-01-13T22:43:00.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just start riding and work your way up. Ride 3-5 days per week, starting with 10 miles per ride. Add 5-10 miles per week to your rides until you can do 50 and still be ready to ride again the next day. That should get you in condition for a 150-mile ride (spread over 3 days) within one to two months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastEditorUserId="10751" LastEditDate="2015-01-14T10:05:02.860" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T10:05:02.860" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28522" CreationDate="2015-01-13T23:47:53.437" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding 50 miles (80km) in a day is a fairly modest goal. Doing it three days in a row is only slightly more ambitious. As a fit (as you will be when you do it) person to ride 80km, you could expect to take 3 to 3.5 hours if you rode hard, and 4 hours if you took it easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is how you will feel the next day. For the actual ride, plan on taking it easy. Ride an hour and stop for a snack, take a few selfies, refill the water bottles, and ride on. So your 4 hours of riding would be spread over 5 to 6 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a modest and conservative plan, you can expect to be able to extend your rides by 10% per week. That would take you from 10 miles to 20 miles in 7 weeks, and to 40 miles in 14 weeks. If you can ride 40 miles (65 km) in one ride then you will easily cope with the &quot;take it easy&quot; scenario above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people will be able to exceed that 10% per week guideline; experiment a bit to see how you go. But for planning purposes, it's better to be conservative and start early. The best laid plan takes real life into consideration. There will be times when you feel you need a break, when the bike needs work, etc. The worst that will happen if you start early is that you'll be even fitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan to ride twice a week for the first two weeks, to give your body time to adjust. Your seat will almost certainly complain when you start the second ride, but it should be ok after the next (3rd) ride. After two weeks, step up to 3 rides per week. Plan for one longer ride and two shorter ones. Mix it up a bit from time to time - skip a ride sometimes, ride on successive days sometimes, add an extra ride some weeks. The variety and spontaneity can help with enjoyment and also give insight to what you are able to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be great to get to 50 miles on successive training days, but you'll probably find that quite a challenge. It's enough to be able to ride 40 miles in one ride at your best pace, because on the actual tour you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be more gentle on yourself. Especially on the first day, and even more so in the first hour of the first day!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a nice tour. Drive the route (by car or Google Street view) to check it out, and maybe join Strava or MapMyRide to see routes that other people use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T23:47:53.437" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-14T14:04:04.493" Score="0" ViewCount="2314" Body="&lt;p&gt;My right Shimano shifter is now loose and clicking it doesn't do anything to the rear derailleur. I've checked the derailleur and it still works fine. How can I fix the shifter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It's a road bike cable shifter; it has the brakes with it as well so it's a brifter (?). I have potentially found the problem. Something in the cable seems to have snapped as the cable has come out of the shifter. Any way to fix that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: I realised that someone shared a link on how to replace the cable in the comments so this question has been answered. Thank you everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16992" LastEditorUserId="16992" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T15:00:34.507" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T15:00:34.507" Title="Possible Broken Shifter" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28519" CreationDate="2015-01-14T19:30:17.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should wash and inspect the rim for cracks. I had a rear wheel that would not stay true, the problem was small cracks around the nipple holes in the rim. The nipples were slowly cracking through over a period of weeks. only a few were doing this so the tension was held by neighboring spokes. thus the only symptom was going out of true. pluck the spokes to listen for a loose one. front wheels are lightly loaded, I have a front wheel with 7000 miles on it in 3 years and have only trued it once at around 2k miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16996" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T19:30:17.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7661" CreationDate="2015-01-14T21:53:15.747" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;the race is a individual route every year . you would need distance ,incline angles, wind factors and get a base . then you would have to match each race with these factors . so if it was a longer distance you find areas that match the base until all wind incline and distance is used from each race are matched perfectly to the base . say 15 degrees incline so you would have to search each year to match this 15 degrees for the same distance and you use these times if they are faster or slower. as you will never tell by simple results&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16997" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T21:53:15.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-14T22:25:57.613" Score="6" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 33years and just moved to belgium. My work commute is about 25km (16miles). I plan to buy a bike mainly to commute to work and get the exercise and decompress after work. &#xA;I am new to biking but was introduced to Cyclocross, which I thought a great alternative since it also gives you the flexibility to ride in the woods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to a bike shop and asked the sales guy if it would make sense to buy a cyclocross, most of the time I will be on the road (there are no woods on the way to work). &#xA;He scared me away from that idea, saying i would be more likely to get injury, back/knee/neck if I did 25km commutes regularly on a cyclocross. However on the internet I got the opposite feedback, saying the position on a CX bike is more relaxed then on a road bike. Even so I hear that a CX bike can be set up exactly like a road bike. I don´t care so much about bike weight etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone has experience on this and is willing to share ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks so much&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16998" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T04:14:32.400" Title="Cyclocross for road bike type of routes - Increased risk of INJURY?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28528" CreationDate="2015-01-14T22:41:11.280" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A CX bike is stable, strong, and will take wider tires.  It is a great road and commute bicycle.  It is built to race in city parks.  It has a comfortable riding position.  Just put touring tires on it (I like 35mm).  I don't mean to advertise a bike but if you look at a high end CX like Moots the even say use as light touring. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://moots.com/our-bike/cross/psychlo-x/overview/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are not going to road race a CX but I will take it as a daily grinder and light touring every time.  At the end of CX season in the US and you can usually find great buys on used bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for risk of injury the only time I would rather be on true road bike is a 50 mph road decent. &#xA;But I am 50 years old - I don't 50 mph decents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is getting a bit of discussion so will add a little. &#xA;I don't road race and gave up my only road bike as for me my CX is was better road bike. &#xA;My road bike was limited to 25 mm tires and that is good for racing but not what I want for commuting or even a long road ride. In this pic it has 35 mm tires but with 28 or 32 mm tires it is a road bike.  It even came geared more for road (52T).  I would not commute on this as it is kind of my baby.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlikV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Salsa below is a bike I bought to CX race but I just did not feel as comfortable on it so I race the above Bianchi.  The Bianchi is softer and not as quick.  As a commuter and light touring this Salsa is an awesome bike.  Other than spend a lot more money on a Moots there is not other commuter I would rather have.  I picked this up used for $1600 US.  It is light enough to get up and go and strong enough to take a beating and titanium does not rust.  And it will take a rack.  I also have a steel Salsa Vaya that I use for shopping but even at just a few pounds difference this bike way nicer for light commuting. &#xA;I like 35 mm tires for daily commuting. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVUtJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Salsa LaCruz&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my beater commuter.  At my gym I have to leave a bike out in a lower end neighborhood. I picked this up used for $400. For a single speed I like 32 mm tires.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/80MZx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SpeciazedSingleCross&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do so much with a CX bike. If you get a nice one you will keep it the rest of your life.  Avoid an aluminum true race CX bike.  A steel bike is heavier but has a longer life than aluminum.  Look at the Surly Cross Check.  No one races a Cross Check - it is just a ballistic commuter.  A bit more money but like the steel Salsa Vaya. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T04:14:32.400" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T04:14:32.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28674" CreationDate="2015-01-15T03:58:17.027" Score="3" ViewCount="3902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building my first road bike, which means I'll have to find appropriate bar height through personal experience and cut the fork steerer in process at least once. I plan to start with the following combination, from down to top: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8mm conical spacer that came with headset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20mm and 10mm spacers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40mm high stem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5mm spacer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, 38mm before stem, 5 after, resulting in total of 83mm of exposed steerer after cut. The fork has 1 1/8 inch (~28mm) tapered carbon fibre steerer, without metal liner inside. Headset is integrated, upper bearing is almost flush with head tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it be safe or I'll have to cut shorter? Fork manufacturer did not answer the question. I do not plan to ride out of saddle too much, at least during initial fitting, so bars won't experience significant load, and I'm pretty lightweight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T09:27:25.497" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T07:23:01.157" Title="Safe steerer spacers stack height" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28531" CreationDate="2015-01-15T06:17:17.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A total spacer height of 30mm below and 5mm above is quite typical, and certainly nothing to be worried about.  The most important thing, since you have a carbon steer tube, is to make sure you use the proper compression plug and the specified amount of torque when assembling it.  Also make sure the top of your top spacer is just slightly higher than the top of the steer tube, because the top cap needs to rest on the spacer (or stem), not the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget you can achieve some bar height adjustment by flipping the stem, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T06:17:17.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28505" CreationDate="2015-01-15T11:02:26.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The optimisation of speed for a given course profile, environmental conditions and rider's physiological capability is a multi-variable optimisation problem. Factors include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the physics of cycling, with the proportion of energy demand from the various resistance forces varying depending upon gradient and wind conditions, as well as a rider's morphology, and that the speed vs power relationship will vary from a mostly cubic to a mostly linear relationship or a mix depending on the those variables.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the physiological capability of the rider &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the fact the physiological cost of riding is curvi-linearly related to power output, i.e. an increase in power comes with an even greater physiological cost. Put simply, riding at a handful of % above TT power and you'll fatigue very quickly, but ride a handful of % below TT power and you can sustain that effort for a very long time&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The result of this relationship between the physiological cost and power output is that the more variable a rider's power output (e.g. to power up climbs and recover on the descents), the lower the average power of the rider must be. IOW you cannot assume you are capable of attaining the same average power if you choose to increasingly vary power output over a given course.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In addition, you can't ride much harder than what your mean maximal power capability is for the entire duration for any more than short periods&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you properly consider all of these factors, and it's possible to quite effectively model them, then you'll realise the fastest times for a given distance &lt;strong&gt;on courses that begin and end at the same location&lt;/strong&gt; will always be for flat routes with very low or no wind conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you could just investigate time trial results from decades of competitions are see what sort of courses provide the fastest speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fastest rides will inevitably be from flat courses with some form of reduction in air resistance, either due to traffic flowing in the same direction as the rider, and/or because they are at altitude. Hillier courses do not feature in the history books as providing the fastest speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then of course the world hour record is set on a velodrome which is of course a short loop providing a never ending flat circuit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T11:02:26.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13983" CreationDate="2015-01-15T12:39:40.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google Earth is pretty accurate for straight line distances, for the UK at any rate. I did a small test of this by plotting some grid points from an Ordnance Survey map on Google Earth, and using two-point paths to measure the distances between them. Each section should have been 10 km long. The sum of 24 such sections was 239.999 km, i.e. only one metre out, or 0.0004%, which given the difficulty of precisely locating some of the grid points is not bloody bad!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17005" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T12:39:40.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28525" CreationDate="2015-01-15T12:45:05.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the edit, put a new cable on. And while you're at it, you may as well replace the cable housing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T12:45:05.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-15T18:23:05.490" Score="2" ViewCount="3910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to buy a bicycle with a front disc brake and a rear foot brake.  I am asking this because I have mild muscular dystrophy and lost almost all of my grip strength so it is very difficult for me to stop with hand brakes.  Maybe there is another solution other than a rear foot brake and I am open to other suggestions.  If not can you recommend a good bike with a rear foot brake.  I would like the 21+ gear option but I am not sure this is possible.  I don't want to go too expensive but I want a good bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17010" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T19:13:42.333" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T19:30:08.043" Title="Best bike with foot brake" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-01-18T20:52:13.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28539" CreationDate="2015-01-15T19:54:10.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A coaster brake is really your only option for foot-operated braking, and most complete bikes sold with coaster brakes have the coaster as the only brake. My experience is that mixing hand and coaster brakes takes some getting used to, and most people don't want to bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This limits the selection of coaster brake bikes to mostly cruiser and city bikes. Most of those are single-speeds or 3-speeds. Both Shimano and SRAM offer 8-speed internally-geared hubs with coaster brakes, but I don't know whether any current production bikes come with 8-speed coaster brake hubs from the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to have a more versatile bike with a wide range of gears and a braking setup that includes a front brake, one way would be to have a rear wheel built using one of the 8-speed hubs. The considerations for that include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The frame would have to be able to accommodate an internal or single-speed rear hub. This means it would have to have either horizontal/track type dropouts or an eccentric bottom bracket.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most internally geared hubs are limited to one chain wheel in front and one cog in back, so you're limited to the number of speeds inside the hub itself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both the Shimano and SRAM hubs come only in 36-hole drilling, not the more popular 32-hole. This would somewhat limit your rim choices.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The derailleurs, chain wheels and cogs from the derailleur drivetrain would become surplus, along with the rear brake and its lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to start with a bike that's really close, the Breezer Uptown 8 or Downtown 8 come with 8-speed hub gears and hand brakes for both wheels. You could purchase the coaster hub and have a bike shop rebuild the wheel, keeping the rim, shifters, cog and chain wheel. I wish I could say that you could just buy a kit to convert from one type of brake to the other, but to my knowledge, the hubs have different internals. Current cost would be a $600-800 bike, $200+ hub, plus labor. You could probably sell the old hub and get a little bit back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option might be to get a cruiser with an 8-speed hub and add a disk brake, but this would require replacing the fork and front wheel. Probably more cost-effective but more of a challenge to find a compatible fork. Too many variables to estimate what that might cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck in your search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T19:54:10.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28539" CreationDate="2015-01-15T20:41:22.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK (you don't say where you are) independent front and rear brakes are required on all bikes (unlike most of the rest of the regs this is a &lt;em&gt;use&lt;/em&gt; not a &lt;em&gt;sale&lt;/em&gt; requirement, though with several exemptions).  This means that a bike with a coaster brake will have a front hand brake -- though it will probably be a rim brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my limited experience of disc brakes, at least the cheap cable ones aren't so very much sharper for a modest pull than rim brakes.  This might mean you need very good disc brakes (a retrofit on all but the most expensive bikes I'm sure) to get the performance you want. Or it might mean that there's not actually all that much difference between disc and rim braking performance (under ideal conditions of course).  I hope I'll attract comments form people with wider experience, but also how absolute is the &lt;em&gt;disc&lt;/em&gt; requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure the UK regs aren't the only ones requiring independent brakes, just the ones I know about. Given the international nature of most manufacturers and their designs, adding a front &lt;em&gt;rim&lt;/em&gt; brake to a bike with a coaster brake might not be that hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a thought, on top of all that: It might be possible to use both hands to operate the same cable front brake to increase the force you could apply.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/cable_doubler/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A product exists apparently&lt;/a&gt; (2nd option at that page).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T20:41:22.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28547" CreationDate="2015-01-15T20:46:41.573" Score="4" ViewCount="3081" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crankset&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=c50c795c-1016-4021-8ae8-9f68450fde36&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano FC-S125, 105 Golden Arrow&lt;/a&gt; and I know I'm using the right bottom bracket (119mm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The pedals&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.grahamweighcycles.com/gwcshop/product.php?id_product=214&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano Clipless SPD M505&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My shoes&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1099516_-1_400098__400098&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Broken link, please fix&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a problem with my shoe scuffing the crank arm when I turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Potential issues&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm using mtb shoes on a road bike &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Old crank (not a smooth molded&#xA;form)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedals &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;positioning of cleat?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas or advice appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike (excuse the weird cinelli decals, I bought it like that. I am not sure if it is a real cinelli).&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CReA3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gsM5d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T12:47:29.977" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T15:50:05.980" Title="Problem with inside of shoe clipping crank arm" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28544" CreationDate="2015-01-15T21:00:08.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where are your shoes scuffing the crank arm? I had a similar issue. I was scuffing just below  and slightly in front of the knob on my ankle joint. I adjusted the cleat on my shoes so that my feet are pointing ever so slightly inwards and this solved it because this moved the contact point away from the crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suddenly adjusting your foot position by too much is a bad thing. It can lead to all kinds of injuries and issues in the various joints and ligaments in your legs. If you need to move your feet by too much do it in small steps or don't do it!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There still is some flex in the cleats on most pedals. That is: you can twist your feet a bit, from pointing inwards to pointing outwards when you are clipped in. You may need to exaggerate the adjustment of your cleats to make sure you account for this movement otherwise you'll still be scuffing the crank arm after you make the adjustment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="26152" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T15:50:05.980" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T15:50:05.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28544" CreationDate="2015-01-15T21:08:17.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While adjusting your cleats may be a valid answer if you have room to adjust the width, but not the angle,  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/ie/gb/ftb/mtb-components/pedals/body-geometry-pedal-axle-extenders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pedal spacers&lt;/a&gt; may also be an option.  They essentially lengthen the spindle of your pedal and move you pedal contact point out away from your crank arm.  Several different companies make them, those are just an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T21:08:17.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28544" CreationDate="2015-01-15T21:09:34.480" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proximate answer is that your shoes at the closest point, are too close to the crank arm, but that hardly solves your problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This distance is affected by a large number of factors: your cleat position, pedal axel length, pedal float, bottom bracket length, and crank arm construction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedal float becomes a factor if you heel-in during your pedal stroke (some peoples hips naturally make them &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/duck-footed&quot;&gt;duck-footed&lt;/a&gt;.&quot;  In this case a longer pedal axel or shifting the cleats to a more inboard position can help.  However shifting the cleats too far can also cause hot spots in some situations as the pedal platform will not be supporting the shoe as evenly as a more centred position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too add to the confusion people may also take a duck footed position to compensate for pedal stance (often referred to as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q_factor_(bicycles)&quot;&gt;Q Factor&lt;/a&gt;), the distance between the pedal attachment point and the centre of the bicycle.  Q Factor is a function of both the bottom bracket width (axle length) and the crank arms construction.  Different cranks have a different nominal Q Factor measurements.  If your bike has a wide Q Factor and your body prefers a more narrow stance, and your pedals have enough float to accommodate, you may pedal heel-in to reduce the realized stance, which can also cause the shoe/crank rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you may be pedalling in a mostly neutral heel position and simply have wide feet and short pedal axels and/or an outboard cleat position.  In this case a more neutral cleat position (inboard vs outboard) or longer pedal axel may solve the problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without more information it is impossible to diagnose which factors are applicable to your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T21:17:46.580" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T21:17:46.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27241" CreationDate="2015-01-15T21:19:44.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2014/11/tackling-mauna-kea-the-worlds-biggest-climb/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this long post by Martin Hoff&lt;/a&gt; also indicated by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/3279/jurgemaister&quot;&gt;jurgemaister&lt;/a&gt; in a comment tells you everything you need. You can find some more info in the comments on individual attempts people did of the segment &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/segments/1504789&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on strava&lt;/a&gt;. The main takeaways I got from the article are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need two bikes (a road bike and a mountainbike) or a dirt-road suitable bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You optimally have a support vehicle driving along with you for food/drinks/extra clothing/emergencies/the way down/nice pictures/the second bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If support isn't an option you need to pack for a really long hard day in both winter and summer climates. Even if you are very fit. Use panniers mounted on your bike, a backpack carrying enough stuff will probably break you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mauna Keau tops out at over 4K above sea level. How fit will you be up there? How used are you to high altitudes? Altitude sickness might be an issue, strenuous activity will certainly be very hard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need low gearing for the steepest part. Install a mountainbike crank-set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you take one bike you probably want knobbly tires on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T21:19:44.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28555" CreationDate="2015-01-15T23:21:37.267" Score="0" ViewCount="1561" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I sat down and said &quot;what kind of a bike do I want?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride mostly in the city, but I wanted something that I could take out to the trails. I don't do anything crazy... maybe a 2' drop at the most. Since I'm looking at bikes in the 1-1.5k price range, full-sus bikes are absolutely out. It seemed like a hardtail 29er was the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I got to doubting that I needed the front suspension either. Why not save money, weight, and maintenance? All I'm sacrificing is a little bit of off-road capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I went hunting for a non-sus 29er in the 1-1.5k price range. The only ones I can find are single-speeds. Really? I'm a spinner, and there's no way I'm doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I do? (feel free to shoot down the theory that I don't need a front suspension)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T22:57:08.793" Title="No non-sus 29er mtbs?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2015-01-18T18:14:44.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28549" CreationDate="2015-01-16T00:17:23.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typicall fixed fork only come with single speed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So you are stuck with: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace a suspension for a fixed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add gears to a single speed &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't do it unless you are going to get a good carbon fork and that is $300+.  It is nice for weight and does not wear out but it is not cheaper than low to mid range shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it is more economical to add gears to a single speed. &#xA;If you can keep the wheel. &#xA;SS with an eccentric bb they typically use a standard wheel and free hub. &#xA;I think the Salsa alternate dropout also take a a standard wheel and free hub.&#xA;With most ss you can can add gears. &#xA;You can get some used gears from someone that upgraded for decent price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or ride a hard tail until you wear out the shock and then decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about shoot down the theory you need gears?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A single speed is more versatile than you would think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not go single speed to cheap it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you do, go with nice carbon fork.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And some nice tubeless wheels.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With a suspension the tubeless gives you a bit more give.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And you can go 2.4 in and still be less weight than a shock.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get more ground clearance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And go with clip (e.g. spd) for more hop and two leg pull for when you stall out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can change out the rear cog from ride to ride.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Typical gearing is 2:1  (32 16) and I have 18 and 20.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It climbs OK - where you have trouble is if you stall out on like rock or root.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It forces you to be a better rider.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The solid frame and low weight is an efficient climber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you can add gears.  They typically come with a regular wheel with a conversion kit and a derailleur hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got one used cheap to learn technique and found I really enjoy it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is a bike I picked up used for $850 - I bought it basically for the fork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NDQm8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Orbea SS conversion&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some discussion on conversion: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is multi speed that was converted to SS&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YdPYV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MS2SS&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a mountain bike purchase as a SS&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fHGl7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the wheel hub is the same. &#xA;The difference is the conversion has the chain tensioner. &#xA;This designed SS has an eccentric bb to adjust chain tension.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-01-16T17:42:57.090" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T17:42:57.090" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11136" CreationDate="2015-01-16T08:33:36.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;a. sorry for my limited English cycling jargon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b. by absence of a chain tool, I too replaced my cogs but not the chain.  And was surprised by the rattling sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c. Everyone tells me to replace both at the same time.  That got me thinking: why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain will wear (cfr. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_chain#Wear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;).  The links will slack.  As a result, with new sprockets, the shackles will be 'squeezed' together to match the sprocket teeth.  Once a link leaves the sprocket, it will be allowed to stretch away to it's full length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will cause a rattling of the same frequency as when it 'tries to shift gears'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17017" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T08:33:36.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28549" CreationDate="2015-01-16T17:21:33.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 29ers without front suspension exist, but they are a bit pricey since they come from niche manufacturers. Many people want SS drivetrains since they want pure simplicity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surly ships some of their complete bikes such as the Ogre as rigid 29'ers (the Karate Monkey can also take gears).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some other options though. One common option is the Kona Unit which has a derailleur hanger which you can order from Kona as seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theunknownrider.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/photo-31.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPx4k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or an internal gear hub as seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diddephoto.com/Family/Kona-Unit/i-c3JzcHV/0/L/20111016KonaUnit035-L.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CAuNd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that both these options require at a minimum a new rear wheel for the Unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that Surly sells their rigid forks as well as do companies like On-one and what not, so you can get one installed after market. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, yet another option: Get 2 bikes (something cheap and not likely to be stolen for city use, one for trail use). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T17:21:33.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28549" CreationDate="2015-01-16T17:37:58.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Surly Ogre has the same geometry as one of the original rigid 29ers, the Karate Monkey. The complete version with 3x9 drivetrain is at the top end of your $1000-$1500 price range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T17:37:58.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28592" CreationDate="2015-01-16T19:06:40.633" Score="0" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GKptS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The fallen item&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hello,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While riding home last night, my brake lever fell off. It's an older item on an older bike. What's the process to re-attached one of these? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T00:35:34.737" Title="Old STI 105 shift lever fell off" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28563" CreationDate="2015-01-17T06:07:48.777" Score="0" ViewCount="2616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2005 KHS Flite, which I am fairly sure is a Reynolds 520 frame, that I absolutely love and have morphed through many variations (the original brakeless fixie, then both breaks free-wheel, then upright gentleman's bike that can still whip, and so on).  Someone tried to steel it or just decided to fuck with it, and bent the downtube/put a dent in the downtube.  It's not major enough to keep me from riding it -  at least I don't think it should, I could be wrong. I was wondering if there is anyway to work out the dent.  Maybe from the inside out somehow?  It's thumb print size into the metal, with little to no warping around the indentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T06:29:52.027" Title="Is there a way to remove the dent/bend?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28564" CreationDate="2015-01-17T06:16:27.613" Score="3" ViewCount="2908" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the application of linseed oil to the inside of a steel frame still recognized as a good way to prevent the formation of rust on the inside of the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T14:49:40.220" Title="Linseed oil application to the inside of a steel frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28561" CreationDate="2015-01-17T06:29:52.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you didn't put a picture, I'm going to guess it is not significantly dented enough to worry about it (in which case, I'd just leave it alone since anything else will be uglier), but you should take it to a bike shop to get a professional opinion (so everything here is obviously all at you're own risk). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/dent-removal.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ShelBroCo Dent Removal System&lt;/a&gt; (joke). A more serious overview from Sheldon Brown's site is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/steel-frame-repair.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For seat tubes and head tubes, you can try from the inside to press the dent out but I don't see you you could do it on the downtube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame blocks (made by companies like Bicycle Research, though you could make your own if you have access to a machine shop quite easily) are one solution. They're essentially 2 machined pieces of metal which you clamp over the tube and rotate the frame to try to push the tube back into shape. An example is &lt;a href=&quot;http://chuck.kichline.com/bikes/Framedents/default.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Note that this will strip the paint off that area as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bondo is another solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extreme solution is to replace the tube (or part of it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T06:29:52.027" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28562" CreationDate="2015-01-17T06:39:35.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The preferred way to do this is to use something like JP Weigle Framesaver. This is an aerosol so you're more likely to get the product in more places which should be protected. And it will dry much quicker (though it has been known to make seat posts somewhat prone to slipping). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, companies like &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/spew_care_and_feeding_of_your_steel_frame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly&lt;/a&gt; still state boiled linseed oil and motor fogging oil are  acceptable ways to protect the inside of the frame from rusting. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/paint-prep.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;John Allen&lt;/a&gt; also discusses a product called Boeshield T9. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're only saving about 5 bucks probably by using boiled linseed oil, so I don't see the point in preferring it unless you already have it / have some problems with aerosols. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T06:39:35.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25265" CreationDate="2015-01-17T13:41:18.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a freewheel, not a cassette, and thus it has no lockring.  It does have the ability for a skilled and careful mechanic to disassemble and replace bearings, to rebuild it.  However, it is cheaper to simply replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T13:41:18.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5439" CreationDate="2015-01-17T17:50:17.830" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some sort of cord to make life easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17032" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T17:50:17.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28574" CreationDate="2015-01-17T18:25:22.503" Score="0" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting a new crankset, decided on this one from Rivendell: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/cr1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/cr1.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Should I keep the 24t granny or get them to swap it out for a 26t? I have some concerns that a 12t jump is going to be rather big. I'm guessing either way I will need a chain watcher, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drivetrain info: I'll be running this with a Sora triple front derailleur. The rest of my drive train is a 9spd Tiagra / Sora shifter set up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12804" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T20:27:43.230" Title="24t or 26t granny gear?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28570" CreationDate="2015-01-17T20:10:10.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 12 tooth jump on my granny gear from 30 to 42 and don't have any shifting problems using Shimano 2300 level equipment. A standard compact crank is 34/50 which is a 16 tooth jump, so 12 teeth really shouldn't create a lot of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T20:10:10.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2015-01-17T20:10:38.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride daily on whatever tyres are fitted to my bike.  Rather than worrying whether it's a slick or not your should worry how hard the tyre is especially in the wet.  A knackered old (age wise not wear wise) tyre that hasn't been used for ages will be rock had and won't work well in the wet.  Some tyres are just a lot softer rubber than others when new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've driven racing cars on slicks, race karts on slicks and race bikes on 'slicks' if you can ever call a bike tyre a slick.  The main difference with a wet race car tyre is the compound and obviously they have grooves to stop aquaplaning at high speed.  At low speed, if you take a wet line, it's the soft compound giving you the grip, not so much the water displacement from the tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it really comes down to is how happy you are with letting the bike slide around under you and that takes years of experience to learn this.  If you can't handle a slide you're likely to find out in the wet.  Read on...  If you have tyres with hard low grip rubber the bike slides at lower speeds.  Softer grippier compounds will make the speed it slides at higher.  Obvious right?  However there is another factor that isn't as binary as this.  It's how easy a tyre is to handle when it's approaching this limit.  This is what is really important about a wet tyre.  If you have another rider alongside you and you're racing him on different tyres you may find out that one tyre type has more grip than the other as he corners faster on that particular road surface.  Without another bike doing exactly the same thing you won't really be able to say one tyre is grippier than the other particularly in the wet as if one tyre handles better you'll think it has more grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what it comes down to.  The better wet tyre is one which has a greater slip angle before the limit is reached and the coefficient of friction starts decreasing.  In the wet there is a dramatic change in grip after you go over the limit.  The better tyre is one which has less of a step change as the limit is reached.  A soft structure will allow the carcass of the tyre to warp increasingly so up until all of the tyre is sliding and the limit is reached.  At low side loads the trailing edge of the tyre contact patch slides and this moves progressively forward as the load increases to the point where the whole contact patch is sliding and the tyre cannot provide any more grip.  This is maximum slip angle when no part of the contact patch is not slipping.  It is how you feel the tyre reaching the limit.  If the tyre is soft you'll feel the slip angle at a lower load and you will be able to keep pushing the tyre with some confidence it wont go over the edge.  If the carcass is rock hard you'll not notice the tyre slipping until the bike disappears from under you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So anyway to summarise.  Slick vs tread is a red herring.  It's about how soft the compound is and how much the carcass can flex.  You'll find any bike tyre handles better in the wet if you drastically lower the pressures.  Although in the dry the same thing applies a soft tyre will be completely unresponsive and will feel awful with low pressures.  Also if it's too soft the contact patch may start working against itself and provide forces in different directions because it's folding over which reduces grip.  Some tyres work better than others but it is not about the tread pattern unless you're doing over 100mph or something! And by the way his is all before we start worrying about vibration and bump damping... there is a lot more to it than just slick = bad/tread = good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17033" LastEditorUserId="6757" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T08:00:51.990" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T08:00:51.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1029" CreationDate="2015-01-17T20:20:39.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Painted lines aren't always the biggest problem in the wet.  The part of the road the cars drive over the most will be all shiny and smooth and filled with smeared otu rubber.  These areas will have the least grip in the wet.  If you can ride on the rough looking bit you will have a little more grip.  Obviously it's a no brainer to avoid man hole covers and metal grids&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17033" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T20:20:39.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28570" CreationDate="2015-01-17T20:27:43.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most manufacturers set maximum gear jump as 16t. I personally ride a 24/40t set and have no poblems with it with no additional equipment.&#xA;So from technical point view the difference isn't too significant and all that matters is what's more comfortable for you to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T20:27:43.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-17T23:10:29.250" Score="0" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend gave me his old sanwa road bike that had been sitting in the snow for about a month. It looks like the one from the 1979 movie &quot;breaking away&quot; but with a different color and brand (to give you an idea of how old it is). Anyways, the brake pads look brand new, they look like they engage properly when I use them, they stop the tires instantly when I use them while I have my bike flipped upside down, but then when I hopped on my bike and pedaled to about 10 mph and pulled the brake levers, I could hear the brakes quietly squeaking a bit against the metal rim of the wheels, but it took 50 feet and a crash into a 10 foot tall pile of snow in an empty parking lot across from my apartment to stop... They felt like they had been cut as soon as I hop on the bike but work fine when I'm off it. From what I can tell, they are supposed to be positioned so they hit the metal wheel rim (they are), in a &quot;V&quot; shape pointing forward (they are), and from what I can tell they just barely don't touch the rim while I'm not pulling the levers. Any ideas on how I can fix this? Any and all help would be appreciated! Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17035" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T11:34:52.027" Title="Brakes feel like they are not even there on my used road bike. How can I fix it?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28575" CreationDate="2015-01-18T00:19:02.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite possible the brake rubber is old. Or the rims may have an oily residue on them. As the pads age they become hard and dry. The result is long stopping distances and brake fade. You can try to use a file on the pad brake surface to remove the driest rubber. Avoid sandpaper as the grit can get lodged in the rubber and damage the rim. The results don't typically last for long. Replacement pads are inexpensive and easy to install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T00:19:02.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-18T00:47:01.563" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without the seat and post in.  Any suggestions what to plug the tube with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17037" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T02:31:30.227" Title="I am hauling my bike a couple of thousand miles" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-01-18T18:13:57.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-18T01:26:29.350" Score="7" ViewCount="9739" Body="&lt;p&gt;So people say you should change cables because of stretch. But after the cables have stretched, isn't it just easier and cheaper to adjust the cable and pull it a bit tighter?&#xA;Why do I need to replace the entire cable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17038" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T21:28:07.970" Title="why change gear and brake cables?" Tags="&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28578" CreationDate="2015-01-18T02:23:10.973" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/07/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-cable-stretch-oil-vs-grease-qr-lever-placement-and-more-on-tubeless_297429&quot;&gt;Cable stretch&lt;/a&gt; is mostly just things settling into place (ferrules into housing, housing into frame stops, housing compressing) rather than physical stretching of the cables, and after a week or so of installing new cables, you simply adjust them to the right tension. This is normal, as is periodic adjustments of cable tensions involved on your bicycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing cables is done for a different reason than &quot;cable stretch&quot;. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable&quot;&gt;Bowden cable&lt;/a&gt; (see also &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), such as the shift and brake cables used on a bicycle consists of an inner wire and housing. As the housing's lubrication wears away(*) or the cable rusts, the cable catches on the housing causing things like the brakes not releasing properly or sloppy shifting. Also, sometimes the cables (which are made of twisted wires) fray and break. If this happens on your brake cable, you don't have braking (which is bad!). Most shift cables fail safely by just forcing you to some extreme gear combination (rear is normally the smallest sprocket). Thus, it is advisable to replace your shift and brake cables periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to replace my cables at least once every winter due to corrosion and road crud, for example, but I do have to do cable tension adjustments periodically when the cables are not replaced (such as indexing getting a bit sloppy or to account for my brake pads wearing down or something). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) Some people oil their cables. Most manufacturers now recommend against this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T02:23:10.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28577" CreationDate="2015-01-18T02:31:30.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I've had bicycles shipped, its generally just been left empty (on a used bike), or had a little plastic plug in it (on a new bike). If you do want to plug it with something (say, you're storing it without the seatpost for some reason and don't want any critters in there), you could plug it with some news paper or something which you can easily remove or cover the hole with a bit of duct tape or something -- It's just a pipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to guess the question is really how to package a bicycle for moving and the easy answer is to use a cardboard bike box. Some directions are &lt;a href=&quot;http://citybikes.com/how-to/how-to-box-a-bike-pg120.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and most bike shops will package a bike for a small fee and even ship it for you. Normally, you remove the seatpost, the wheels, take off the handlebars, pedals, and then just arrange them in the box (without disconnecting the cables). Then, put all the things back together when you get home (note that the left hand pedal is opposite threaded). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T02:31:30.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-18T05:31:27.937" Score="3" ViewCount="5565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newbie when it comes to biking. I don't plan on taking it as a very serious hobby; I'm really more of just a leisure rider who enjoys touring around town, but I'd also like to be able to drive efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.doppelganger.jp/product/214/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Doppelganger Spiegel 214&lt;/a&gt; a few days ago, and I really like it. However, I'm currently finding difficulty driving it uphill. I can't tell the slope angle exactly but I think it's somewhere above 30 or 40 of a decent stretch of road (maybe around 10-15 meters) that I'm finding a hard time driving on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it's because I don't know how to shift gears and that I'm using the wrong one, or my legs aren't strong enough (yet?) or my bike just isn't up for it. Can anyone enlighten me on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AwMgO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AwMgO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17039" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-06-05T19:37:17.847" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T19:42:10.560" Title="Why can't I ride my city type (folding) bike uphill?" Tags="&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;hills&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28584" CreationDate="2015-01-18T05:53:56.090" Score="2" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I bought a Light and Motion Vis 180 off of Ebay.  The seller had a great rating and claimed it was in &amp;quot;new&amp;quot; condition, so I thought I'd go ahead and take a risk on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I got was a Vis 180 - of some kind.  Sure, it seems to work, but I have packaging from three different products!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have packaging from a Vis 180 50 Lumen, a Vis 180 70 Lumen, and a vis 180 micro.  In fact, here is a picture to prove it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XQgKi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The white package is 50 Lumens.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I still have a perfectly good Cygolite Hotshot.  I went in a darkened room, and it appeared the hotshot was actually brighter than the vis180 &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; the vis180 had a vastly larger &amp;quot;throw&amp;quot; - by itself, the vis180 made a bright spot on the wall, and together with the vis180 it made a bright spot on the much larger spread of light from the vis180.  (Confession: Haven't charged it yet.)  Makes me think it's the 50 Lumen, I can post a picture of that too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps they would make a great combination with the vis180 flashing to get attention and the Hotshot on steady so drivers can judge where I am?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride some really hostile roads at night - broken glass, no sidewalks, where there are sidewalks, I'm shooting across roads where drives are sometimes frustrated they can barely hang a right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, I did want the 70 lumen version.  I paid $70 for it but I could still return it.  I don't truly care about the packaging - hell, I live next to a corporate outlet store and know &lt;strong&gt;sometimes&lt;/strong&gt; underpriced product can be legit, but could someone be so kind as to tell me how to figure out what I actually own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you kindly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T07:10:00.813" Title="Is my VIS 180 the 50 Lumen or 70 Lumen Version?" Tags="&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;taillight&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28581" CreationDate="2015-01-18T06:32:44.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a problem shifting gears.  Most bicycles have a gear that is so easy you can easily spin the pedals it up all but the most brutal of hills.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this does not mean going up the hill at a steady pace will be easy just because the gear is easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Hard&quot; Gears&lt;/em&gt; (High Gear): Your tires spin quite a bit with each revolution of the pedals.  These take more force to spin, but the bike will go much faster for a given spin rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Easy&quot; Gears&lt;/em&gt; (Low Gear): You tires hardly spin when you spin the pedals.  This vastly reduces the force you have to use to propel the bicycle. However, you have to spin the pedals much, much faster to go at a given speed! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One time, when I switched to a new bike I literally just rode in circles for miles and miles until I mastered the gears.  This is an important skill to get the most out of your new bike, and you should spend time mastering it where switching is easy before you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need it - &lt;strong&gt;preperation&lt;/strong&gt; is half the battle as they say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;You will quickly find that when going up a hill in an &quot;easy&quot; gear, you have to breathe a lot - this is great exercise!  Power is energy over time - using Low gear doesn't actually reduce the power needed to go up a hill - it reduces to force.  Because you are using less force, you have to apply it faster!  Take it slow - if you take twice as long to get up an incline, you can do it with half the power!  You'll just have to experiment and find what cadence it right for you.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="7136" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T20:02:05.767" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T20:02:05.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28582" CreationDate="2015-01-18T07:10:00.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is definitely the Vis 180 70 lumen. This is the new packaging that L&amp;amp;M just debuted in late 2014 when the 70 lumen model came out. They sent the new design to the packaging manufacturer just before they got the Vis 180 upgraded to run at 70 lumens, so the white insert says 50 lumens when in fact it's 70 lumens (as shown on the outside sticker there). Another way to double-check is the flash pattern. Does the pulse turn all the way off at its least-bright point or does it only go to about 20% dim? If it goes all the way off, it's the 50 lumen version, if it stays part-way on throughout the cycle, it's the 70 lumen version. You can see a video comparing the old and new flashes on &lt;a href=&quot;//www.bikelightdatabase.com/light-and-motion/vis180/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the full Vis 180 review&lt;/a&gt; on the bike light testing site I run. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify on the packaging, all of their lights that are in a series come in the same packaging within that series. So if you buy an Urban 350, the inset has info about the whole Urban line, including the 350, 500, 650, and 800. When you bought the Vis 180, you got info about the Vis 180 and the Vis 180 micro, because they're sold in the same package with a different label on the outside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cygolite Hotshot puts out much less total light, but has a more focused, intense beam than the Vis 180. The total output of the Vis 180 is much higher. I personally use the Vis 180 as my primary taillight in steady mode, with a secondary (less bright) light in flashing mode. Your proposed setup could work well too. Having two lights is always a good idea!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you almost certainly do have a legitimate Vis 180 2014 70 lumen version. One thing to be aware of is that the eBay seller is likely &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; an authorized reseller, so &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.lightandmotion.com/hc/en-us/articles/200204979-Warranty-Policy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;your warranty may be void&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Light &amp;amp; Motion provides warranties against manufacturer defects for 2 year starting from the date of purchase &lt;strong&gt;from a Light &amp;amp; Motion Authorized Dealer&lt;/strong&gt;. While the warranty is non-transferable and does not cover failures from misuse or battery issues beyond one year, damaged lights can usually be repaired for a nominal fee. Proof of purchase required for warranty support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have more information &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.lightandmotion.com/hc/en-us/articles/201828310-Online-Sales-Amazon-Ebay-Purchases-Warranty&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;specifically about buying from eBay here&lt;/a&gt;. I would suggest you inquire as to whether the seller is an authorized dealer &amp;ndash; in my experience, L&amp;amp;M have excellent customer support, but you may be SOL if you bought from an unauthorized source. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T07:10:00.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-18T17:29:03.127" Score="2" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the 10 cyclocross races I did this year I often found myself riding solely in my small 34t chainring and was unable to change up and down quickly enough between corners and barriers to be able to make use of my 46t. The group set usually takes 2-3 total revolutions of the cranks to do this if it doesn't drop its own chain. To remedy this I am planing on running a 39t instead but I just wondered whether more experienced people could help me find the answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am racing on a 9 speed Shimano Tiagra and was wondering whether this is more to do with the level wear of the chain rings or if it could possibly be blamed on the budget level quality of the group set. Do Ultegra group sets shift quicker or are they more about weight saving, would the best place to start be a proper service at the bike shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T11:05:02.197" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T16:53:19.670" Title="Can you change gear on your front dérailleur during a cyclo cross race?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28585" CreationDate="2015-01-18T17:40:49.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes higher end riders will go with a larger front chain ring on parts of some courses or they would not have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher end will shift faster and it could also be an adjustment thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some riders go with just a single up front (e.g. SRAM has the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-force-cx1-crankset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CX1&lt;/a&gt;). &#xA;With a 9 speed in back it is harder to get the range with a single up front but with an 11 speed in back it makes a single more of an option.  You save some weight and also get a little more ground clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T18:46:17.977" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T18:46:17.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-18T20:07:15.500" Score="1" ViewCount="7654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Giant TCR Composite road bike yesterday and since it comes without a pedals i bought a MTB clipless pedals but i don't feel comfortable with this pedals, so should i buy a road bike specific pedals and shoes -as it is a clip pedals- or it is just a matter of time then i will be used to it ?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14638" LastEditorUserId="14638" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T20:54:16.173" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T06:24:21.493" Title="Is it important to have a road bike shoes and pedals or it won't make a difference?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28588" CreationDate="2015-01-18T20:59:10.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, note that if you're new to clip/clipless systems, it takes a while to get used to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of non-racers prefer mountain bike clipless pedals (e.g. Shimano SPD) since you can clip in on both sides of the pedal and the shoes often allow the cleats to be recessed (so you can walk around). Mountain marketed shoes generally tend to be more comfortable as well.&#xA;An example SPD pedal is:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P4gDR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some SPD pedals also double as platform pedals, so you can use regular shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road pedals (e.g. Look/ Shimano SPD-SL) have larger support for the shoe but only allow you to clip in on one side of the pedal. An example of SPD-SL is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozLl6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spdsl&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, at the end of the day, the &lt;strong&gt;pedal-shoe combination is completely up to you&lt;/strong&gt;. You could use road platforms, toe clips, mountain bike clipless, road clipless, etc. - do what makes you most happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9195/can-someone-give-me-a-short-description-and-comparison-of-the-different-road-cyc?rq=1&quot;&gt;this excellent question&lt;/a&gt; as well for comparison of pedal-shoe systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T20:59:10.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28482" CreationDate="2015-01-18T21:27:40.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hate to sound like a caveman but in addition to the lubricant-props to you for doing that on your own- you might want to get a hammer and try to tap it-the key or the lock- just to see if it'll help. I know my Kryptonite cable lock has become rusted from being in the elements and bound up a couple times before I could soak it with WD-40. Jimmying it and tapping were what helped there. Lucky for you your lock isn't on the bike. Hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17046" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:43:16.203" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:43:16.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28557" CreationDate="2015-01-19T00:35:34.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say you've lost some of the other bits.  This kills the brifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, just buy a replacement, probably you can find it used for $50.  Normally you'd redo the bar tape in order to replace the entire shifter, but if you want to avoid that, you could probably swap the entire internals of the new unit into the old body (I say probably because it may be a bit fiddly and perhaps not worth the trouble, and everyone needs new bar tape anyway!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T00:35:34.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28607" CreationDate="2015-01-19T01:39:20.417" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike I got used and happy with the price for frame alone but I don't know the history.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kris King hub with significant drag. &#xA;With cassette off and just a rim if spin it hard I get 5 revolutions. &#xA;I have a backup wheel and if I spin it hard I get 50 revolutions. &#xA;I can feel a lot friction in the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is laced up to some nice Velocity rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T05:33:44.940" Title="Hub sticking - friction" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;freehub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3765" CreationDate="2015-01-19T02:02:28.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the exact same problem with same pump. Pulled a presta stem right out of the tube. Tried to lubricate with soap. Front tire didn't work, then back tire did, but the answer seems to be to unscrew the nut that is on the valve stem. It pushes the chuck off with no stress on the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17049" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T02:02:28.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28588" CreationDate="2015-01-19T06:16:51.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A lot of causal riders appear to prefer SPD's, &lt;strong&gt;which is a great place to start&lt;/strong&gt;, but I here is the argument for SPD-SL like systems. Which I personally prefer and even on dirty muddy roads.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bike specific pedals (e.g., SPD-SL) are designed for a single purpose, road cycling, and the pedals do this job well.  Road cycling has a lot of repetitive motions (you often sit in the same position for a long period of time) so fit can be key to reducing repetitive stress injuries. If you get into long rides, high mileage or fast and hard rides you will notice the difference over mountain bike pedals.  Because you change your position quite often in mountain biking the small nuance issues of fit in road cycling are often a non-issue in endurance mountain biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pros - Road Pedals (SPD-SL and others)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smooth float&lt;/strong&gt; - Pedal float is the ability to allow the shoe to swivel (and shift laterally in some systems) slightly during the pedal stroke.  This can be important to reducing certain types of injury (and optimizing alignment) as your foot can shift slightly in the pedal stroke.  Mountain bike pedals use the shoe tread as the contact point, while road pedals use a specialized cleat as the contact point.  As such, road specific pedals can choose materials and control the contact patch better allowing a much smoother float (and often more float) than mountain bike systems.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note - Some claim that float reduced power, but there is no real evidence for this idea. See the myth section in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.ca/Bike-Fit-Phil-Burt/dp/1408190303&quot;&gt;Phil Burt's Bike Fit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wider Contact Area&lt;/strong&gt; - Because they do not require the same ability to shed mud and dirt, road pedals have a large interface surface with the cleat.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduced Hot spots&lt;/strong&gt; - The wide contact area distributes pedal force over a larger proportion of the shoe, which in turn better supports the foot.  Assuming your shoe fits properly, this will result in reduced likelihood of hot spots.  Hot spots can occur over long periods of riding, where a pressure point exists under a small potion of your foot which causes discomfort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Better force transfer&lt;/strong&gt; - The wider contact area allows for a more efficient transfer of force as there will be less flexing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lower Profile&lt;/strong&gt; - Because the tread block is not required the road shoes can often be placed closer to the pedal axel.  This can allow less rocking (more efficient power transfer) and allow for more clearance (aka harder cornering)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lower Weight/Lower Rotating mass&lt;/strong&gt;  If you care about such things (many do) the road pedal/shoe combo is typically lighter.  This can provide minor performance gains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cons&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lousy to walk in&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This can cause accidents&lt;/strong&gt; - After using road shoes for nearly 20 years I finally had my first accident, which hand me sliding across the kitchen floor (while avoiding small children) and crashing into the stove, where as luck would have it my hand landed on a red hot stove element! I still went for a ride though...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No hike a bike&lt;/strong&gt; - Suppose you use up all your tubes (@CareyGregory), your frame is cracked and can't be welded because you are out riding across some African plain and there are no good TIG welders around, you are running out of water and you still have 10 miles to go. Well now add your shoes to your list of problems because you are not walking in them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They sound funny&lt;/strong&gt; - Depending if you look hot or like a stuffed sausage when you stop in for your pre-ride caffeine binge, the ensuing clickety-clack caused by road shoes may cause you horrendous humiliation!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-01-19T06:24:21.493" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T06:24:21.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28519" CreationDate="2015-01-19T10:11:42.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Machine-built wheels are known to need re-truing after the first several rides, but not after that. This is because machines don't do stress-relief of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a mountain bike of medium quality, I would expect spoke re-truing to be needed at most once per year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far I know, tension of the spokes is the only thing, that is responsible to keep the wheel together. Some people put 'spokeprep' on nipples when building, but others advise for plain grease!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently, the first thing I would expect is that the wheel spokes are under-tightened. There is a simple way to check this. Go to a bike shop and squeeze together parallel spokes of some high-quality bikes. You will notice that front wheel spokes have a certain tension, and rear-wheel spokes have different tension on the two sides of the wheel. Compare roughly the feel of those spokes to the ones on your bike. Thus you will know if yours are loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources of all the claim in this answer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-tires.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-tires.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T10:11:42.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-19T10:17:51.020" Score="0" ViewCount="3998" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I run SRAM double tap road shifters with MTB (X5, X7) derailleurs and cassette/chainrings? I want to get lower bottom gears than achieved with a 50-34 chainset and 34-11 cassette&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17051" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T13:57:01.980" Title="SRAM double tap road shifters, MTB derailleurs?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28600" CreationDate="2015-01-19T11:44:51.160" Score="2" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of forks (Rock Shox XC/30/TK on a Focus Black Raider 2.0 2012) that measure 30mm at the bottom and 28.6mm at the top, (or 1 3⁄16&quot; to 1⅛&quot; in pre-enlightenment measurements). So they're tapered, but they're not 1½&quot; to 1⅛&quot; like a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6475/tapered-head-tube&quot;&gt;standard tapered steerer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So are they tapered or straight? I am looking for a replacement because the dampener popped out of them and I need to know what to be looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2020-12-23T02:56:14.150" Title="Is there more than one type of tapered steerer?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;steerer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28599" CreationDate="2015-01-19T12:34:13.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/xc-30-tk&quot;&gt;Official website says&lt;/a&gt; that these are the only models available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1-1/8&quot; STKM steel, 1-1/8&quot; aluminum (-163g), XL 1-1/8&quot; steel, XL 1-1/8&quot;&#xA;  aluminum, 1.5&quot; to 1-1/8&quot; tapered aluminum (-123g), 1.5&quot; aluminum&#xA;  (-146g)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your fork is straight, the taper at the bottom is required for interference fitted crown race. I've measured straight Suntour XCM just in case and it has same dimensions as in the the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-01-19T12:53:11.050" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T12:53:11.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28598" CreationDate="2015-01-19T13:57:01.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back: All the SRAM rear derailleurs which have &quot;exact actuation&quot; (1:1 actuation ratio) should work. This includes the X5 and X7. You can run a &quot;mountain&quot; or &quot;road&quot; cassette, its pretty much just marketing that differentiates them provided the derailleur has enough capacity to use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front: On the other hand, in the front, the cable pulls are different, so you will need the road SRAM FD. The FD should be matched to the type of front crankset (double or triple) and the spec sheet will tell you the constraints on the chainring sizes which the derailleur can shift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T13:57:01.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-19T19:20:57.997" Score="4" ViewCount="8752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1992 Bridgestone MB-4 that I am converting to a cyclocross bike.  It is a 3 x 7 (21 gears).  I am going to put down bars on it and to change the older over shifters and brake levers.  As it is an old bike, I am looking to keep the cost down on parts.  Does anyone have a recommendation of combined brake/shift levers that will work with 3 x 7?  I have Deore XT rear and front derailleur. Any other suggestions/recommendations for this conversion are also welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17055" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T12:15:53.273" Title="Converting my old mountain bike to a cyclocross" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28603" CreationDate="2015-01-19T19:34:23.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Integrated drop bar shift levers are inherently expensive, so I'm not sure how much you will be able to keep the cost down.  Also, you will probably have a hard time finding 7 speed integrated levers. They would either have to be old, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rutlandcycling.com/282274/products/shimano-st-a073-tourney-3x7-speed-sti-levers.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;low end&lt;/a&gt;.  And even the low end stuff is quite highly priced.  Based on the searching I've done &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/7-speed-sti-shifters-74933.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;around the web&lt;/a&gt;, it doesn't appear Shimano ever did 7 speed intergrated shifters above the Sora Level.  When Dura-Ace and Ultegra were in 7 speed, they were still using down tube shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T19:34:23.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28578" CreationDate="2015-01-19T21:28:07.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another reason why I change my cables (every couple of years) is that the ends of the outer casing tend to get crimped and break down.  Then you need to tighten up everything and eventually will not be able to take up all slack to create the tension that you need.  Also most housings have an SPF rating just like sunblock, although it takes a long time exposure to sun light does take its toll on the cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13828" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T21:28:07.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10897" CreationDate="2015-01-20T00:20:04.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been designing and installing bicycle parking facilities for more than 10 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner of the rack has a duty of care to supply a bike rack fit for purpose - that a rider can lock their bike to the rack and the bike will be secure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Secure' is open to interpretation. My interpretation is that a lock should not be able to be removed from a bike rack using commonly available non-destructive tooling, ie. if someone can walk up with an off the shelf socket set, undo the bolts, unthread the lock and take the bike, then the rack is not secure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If security fasteners (requiring specific tooling for installation) had been used, then this would be deemed secure - no liability on the part of the rack provider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If destructive tooling had been used to cut the rack, (and the rack met the standards for bike racks) - no liability on the part of the provider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears commonly available non-destructive tooling was used, therefore I believe the rack installer/provider had a duty to offer security fasteners to the owner, and the owner had a duty to accept the need for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By providing the rack to encourage you to shop with them, they have a duty to ensure the rack was fit for purpose, it appears it was not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if their car spaces are too narrow, bollards are too low, traffic aisles not marked correctly, they may be liable in some degree, if someones motor vehicle is damaged as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motor vehicle security is self contained and entirely provided by the vehicle owner, therefore no duty of care for security of a motor vehicle is owed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17059" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T00:20:04.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28593" CreationDate="2015-01-20T04:12:09.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably you need to service that hub - or get it serviced by your LBS.  That much drag means that either it's full of dirt, or the grease has completely dried up or water contaminated, or the bearings have collapsed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of those are likely to be fatal, but you would be well advised to open that hub up and clean it out, check the bearings, and re-grease it.  Or have your shop do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T04:12:09.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28593" CreationDate="2015-01-20T05:33:44.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The webpage for &lt;a href=&quot;https://chrisking.com/hubs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chris King Hubs&lt;/a&gt; says they are easy to service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They supply lots of &lt;a href=&quot;https://chrisking.com/tech/tech_PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;info sheets&lt;/a&gt;, like this &lt;a href=&quot;https://chrisking.com/files/pdfs/CLASSIC-rear.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hub exploded view&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://chrisking.com/files/upload/instructions/ClassicManual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would take it apart and service it. They also sell parts, and since it's a high-end hub I would put some effort into saving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T05:33:44.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28636" CreationDate="2015-01-20T05:56:31.173" Score="2" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going through specification of Specialized Epic Comp bicycle (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/epic/epic-comp-29#specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;) and there is in column FRONT DERAILLEUR: &quot;Custom SRAM, 2X10, high direct mount&quot;. What does it mean? Is it some kind of specific derailleur for this bike? Does it mean it is not possible to use ordinary SRAM x7, x9, x0 series? Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17060" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T10:05:05.333" Title="What does &quot;SRAM Custom&quot; (front derailleur) mean?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28609" CreationDate="2015-01-20T06:42:55.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look closely at the zoomed photo on Specialized's site, you can see that the label on the &quot;custom&quot; front derailleur says only &quot;SRAM&quot; and &quot;2x10&quot;.  The regular ones made by SRAM say &quot;X0&quot; or other model names on them, e.g. here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-x0-2x10-high-direct-mount-front-derailleur-srm0437&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/sram-x0-2x10-high-direct-mount-front-derailleur-srm0437&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the style of mount is readily available, but perhaps not the precise model with no labeling that Specialized is using.  Maybe that means they're using something &quot;between&quot; the regular SRAM grades, or maybe a different surface finish, or....  But this shouldn't matter if you simply need to buy a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T06:42:55.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-20T10:02:59.777" Score="3" ViewCount="605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a trek 7.1 that I bought last March (2014) and have been told that the pads, front wheel, chain and cassette need replacing. Is this normal for 4 to 5 days a week usage for commuting (5 to six miles total) then the odd longer cycle? The wheel was my fault as I damaged it by not replacing the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should this stuff be covered by warranty considering it's less then a year? I have been told it's wear and tear which isn't covered but I don't think it's reasonable I should have to make these repairs so early on (minus the wheel obviously). Just wondered if I should try and get this done under warranty or if it's a lost cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17063" LastEditorUserId="11200" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T10:51:23.643" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T10:51:23.643" Title="Wear and tear and warranty" Tags="&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-20T10:20:08.980" Score="3" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got a Dahon city vybe c7a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMXCn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a white plastic tube at the bottom, what should I do with it? It seems to prevent the seat pole from sliding down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17064" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T08:32:21.150" Title="What to do with the white plastic tube in Dahon city vybe c7a?" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28611" CreationDate="2015-01-20T10:39:52.893" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No warranty for these items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pads wear. If you use them in wet and sandy conditions they wear faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front wheel damage is your fault&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain grows and wears, especially if you don't shift properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cassette wears, especially if you don't shift properly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I don't think that you need to change your chain and cassette. Unless you do racing you can get away with the same chain and cassette for 2-3 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T10:39:52.893" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28611" CreationDate="2015-01-20T11:33:53.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many things on bicycles are consumable and anything that moves or rubs is going to have to be replaced, it's just a matter of when.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unusual for a cassette to wear out completely within a year although if it's been ridden on a stretched chain or without regular cleaning and lubing it'll wear out much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience chains are normally the first things to wear out, presumably because they almost constantly in motion and rubbing against the cogs while you ride plus picking up all kinds of stuff that flies off of the wheels. I normally replace my chains every year regardless of the state that they are in simply because of the low cost of a replacement chain and the relatively high amount of damage that running a worn chain can cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tell if the cassette (or the  chainrings) need replacing by checking the teeth. If the teeth looked ramped you should switch out the part. See Image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5sU2O.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the teeth don't look worn but are black with dirt you can clean them with a de-greaser you may find it easier to clean the cassette if you remove it although this requires a cassette removal tool otherwise you can leave it on and clean it with a brush and ordinary dish soap, just rinse afterwards, dry it and remember to lube the inside of the chain again after cleaning it being careful not to overdo it as that will just cause muck and grit to stick to it while riding. Do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; use WD-40!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check the wear on your brake pads look at them from the side and check for grooves. New brake pads come with groves which allow water to escape from under them much like the tread on a tyre. If your brake pad has no visible groves on the face that touches the rim, they should be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11200" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T09:03:00.507" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28612" CreationDate="2015-01-20T12:47:27.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The seat clamp prevents the seat from sliding down. Not a plastic tube of any kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hunch is that it's meant to be taken away. It's there only for some packaging purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13177" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T12:47:27.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2401" CreationDate="2015-01-20T13:25:45.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pedaled my bicycle from Seattle to key west carrying two guns .  I used two safepacker holsters strapped through the waist band for a Fannie pack which was attached around my waist.  Just Google safepacker holsters to get to the sites .  On the early portion of the trip I carried a 44 magnum Alaskan redhawk, then switched it out with a glock 20 and ruger 380 incase my primary malfunctioned .I switched the 44 magnum to the glock 20 after I was out of the mountains. &#xA;My every day carry on my bicycle around Miami beach is a glock 29 and a ruger 380 still using two safe packer holsters.glock29's are serious firepower as is the glock 20 and 44magnum Alaskan red hawk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 44 magnum will will take care of all natural threats I am told while the glock 20 has a tad less firepower.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17068" LastEditorUserId="17068" LastEditDate="2015-01-20T13:31:23.160" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T13:31:23.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28585" CreationDate="2015-01-20T16:45:35.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should not take 2-3 revolutions to shift modern chainrings. There are possibly a few things going on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your larger chainring does not have the pins and ramps required to shift quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes cross sized rings don't have all the bells and whistles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TvFpw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pins and ramps&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your big chainring should have those features. If it doesn't get a new ring. &#xA;Race Face and Black Spire make 110BCD rings with pins and ramps in cross racing sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The derailleur needs adjusting/replacing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The derailleur cage needs to be positioned such that it is about 2-3mm above the big chainring. The cage also needs to be curved such that it closely matches the curvature&#xA;of the big ring. 46t is right at the size where a standard road derailluer has problems.&#xA;It should look something like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/znQC3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;showing proper 2mm clearance&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get the derailleur close on both top and bottom, you can either get a cross specific front derailleur, or grind the cage of your current derailleur to match the curvature of the big chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your shifting technique needs practice. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone who learned to shift before indexing, I have some habits that I only recently learned modern beginners often never learn. Even with indexed shifting, on the front you need to push the lever beyond the click until you hear the chain catch. This is something I was doing unconsciously since that's what friction shifting requires, a slight overshift and trim. Recently in helping a beginner learn to shift, I took a closer look at what I was doing and they weren't and realized that they let go of the lever as soon as it clicked, not as soon as the chain engaged the big ring. This makes a big difference in how fast the chain shifts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also needed to learn the subtleties of soft pedaling during the shift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern chains and rings have gotten so good that in normal situations ( 39/52 on the road), you can often go a long time before these tricks become unconscious. Cross racing is tweaking the boundaries of what the shifting system can do for you and requires learning these old school techniques. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-01-20T19:28:35.473" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T19:28:35.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28603" CreationDate="2015-01-20T18:20:13.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With 7 speeds you can use bar-end shifters, that can be found used.  The stem will need to be steep so it provides a big rise.  Google for photos of drop-bar mountain bikes to see what I mean.  Otherwise your weight will be too far forward and the bike will be hard to ride.  I have a Spot Longboard 29&quot; bike that I use drops on from time to time to change things up.  Also, if the racing involves much portaging (carrying) the bike, that MB-4 might get heavy sooner instead of later.  It is not and never was a high-priced bike, and allowances made to meet a price point equate to increased weight.  Good luck, have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17072" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T18:20:13.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28603" CreationDate="2015-01-20T18:23:43.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Converting a mountain bike to a drop bar bike isn't a process that is likely to save money unless you are very careful with parts selection so you don't make mistakes, and spend a lot of time hunting for just-right used parts at bargain prices. Moreover, generally one would desire a larger MTB frame for drop bar use than for a standard MTB setup. However, people have had good results with such a project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can buy a decent-quality 8-speed cyclocross bike for $400 from Bikesdirect, and you can probably sell your MB-4 for $150, which would make the net cost of getting purpose-built 700c cyclocross bike $250. That should be your max budget if you're trying to save money, as opposed to build a cool bike on a frame that has sentimental value to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're committed to this project, watch eBay and Craigslist for cheap 7-speed brifters &amp;amp; drop bars. But be prepared for the bike to fit oddly, and potentially to have a heck of a lot of seat-to-bar drop unless you have a really upright stem:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2007/cc337-chriscullum0707.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2007/cc337-chriscullum0707.html&lt;/a&gt; (Note that bike has relatively little seatpost exposed for an MTB— you probably only want to attempt the conversion if you have a similar amount or less seatpost exposed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T18:23:43.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28611" CreationDate="2015-01-20T20:47:43.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chain wear is objectively measured.  Ask the shop to show you the chain wear measurement.  It's a simple device that shows how much the chain has stretched.  But if the chain is really worn with such small mileage, then something else may be wrong.  Even if it has never been cleaned or lubed, I doubt that it could be worn out already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2808" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T20:47:43.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28612" CreationDate="2015-01-21T08:01:41.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you lower the seat all the way down for folding it up, the bottom of the seat tube will rest on the ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they shipped the bike, they included the protector so that the seat tube wouldn't puncture the bottom of the box. You can safely throw it away, or ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you have wood flooring, you'll note that you can damage the floor with the seat tube. You can protect both your flooring and the bottom of the seat tube from scuffs by using the plastic protector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can safely lose it with no loss of function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-01-11T08:32:21.150" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T08:32:21.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-21T12:06:08.457" Score="0" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a overmountain bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/eur_en/overmountain/trigger/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cannondale Trigger Lefty 27.5&lt;/a&gt;) with 140mm travel but I was wondering whether I can make a downhill bike out of it because I really want to ride downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shock I have in the rear suspension is a Fox DYAD 2 and I'm not sure if I can replace it with other shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17089" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-01-21T19:37:10.867" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T19:37:10.867" Title="Overmountain bike to downhill bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;modification&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28624" CreationDate="2015-01-21T16:00:30.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. It's a trail bike. You'd need to add an extra 40-60mm rear travel for a start. It's also perfectly capable of being ridden down many DH tracks as it is - it just might not like the 40ft gap jumps :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With tongue firmly in cheek, there's a few things you might be able to do, but none of them will turn it into a proper downhill bike. Most of them will void the warranty and/or break the frame!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit a proper DH fork (e.g. a Rockshox Boxxer) and a direct mount stem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bodge a longer stroke shock into the frame (if you can find a pull-shock that long)   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now your head angle and bottom bracket are in a crazy place, fit an angle headset (Works Components or Cane Creek) and/or some offset shock bushings (e.g. Burgtec) to put them back somewhere vaguely sensible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fit some heavy duty wheels (e.g. Hope Pro2Evo + Stans FlowEX, or Mavic DeeMax)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the front derailleur, and replace it with a single chainring and a chain device&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the cassette with a close ratio one and switch to a short-cage derailleur while you're at it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgrade to 203mm disc rotors and Shimano Saint brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've spent all that money, you'll have a complete mess of a frankenbike that doesn't work anywhere near as well as a proper DH bike. As &lt;a href=&quot;/users/3927/vorac&quot;&gt;Vorac&lt;/a&gt; commented, you're better off buying used. The Specialized Status is a good value place to start looking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, an angle headset might help make the bike more confident on the descents, without completely ruining it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T16:00:30.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-21T16:18:14.150" Score="1" ViewCount="2140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a fat bike through the internet, and found to my surprise, that it had 3&quot; tires, and not 4&quot; tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the common fat bike rim sizes, and tire sizes?  I'm primarily interested in width, as I am looking for a commuting bike to ride through a lot of snowy crud, and am looking for wheel/tire options to replace on this newly purchased bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7485" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T19:49:34.287" Title="What are the rim size options for fat bikes?" Tags="&lt;fatbike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28628" CreationDate="2015-01-21T16:56:11.740" Score="1" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will a Campagnolo Athena (2014) crank spider and crank arm from a 'standard' chainring setup of 39/53 accommodate 'compact' chainrings of 34/50, also Campagnolo Athena (2014)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14635" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T17:08:38.410" Title="Campagnolo crank spider inter-compatibility between 'standard' and 'compact' chainrings" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;&lt;compact-crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28627" CreationDate="2015-01-21T17:08:38.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, compact chainrings have 110 BCD (bolt circle diameter) while standard chainrings have 135 BCD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T17:08:38.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28631" CreationDate="2015-01-21T20:46:08.697" Score="1" ViewCount="9717" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I apply rear brakes only (I know this isn't the proper way to stop), it slows me down but never locks the wheel to the point of skidding (on dry pavement anyway). This is a new 'cyclocross' style bike with disc brakes. It has both regular road bike levers and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-levers-drop.html#cross&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;auxiliary brake levers&lt;/a&gt;, if that matters. I am exerting quite a bit of force on the lever and they do not touch the handlebars (bottom out). It seems like a defect to me because that's not what I'm used to from my old hybrid bike with V-brakes, but having had it in the shop a couple of times, I'm starting to wonder -- are these brakes ineffective or is this a design feature to prevent skidding? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a flaw, what is wrong - the brakes, the pads, the cables/adjustment or something else? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a feature, how does it work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17098" LastActivityDate="2019-06-01T06:50:08.950" Title="My back brakes don't lock the wheel (skid): feature or a bug?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28630" CreationDate="2015-01-21T21:16:58.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes should be capable of locking the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a new bike I would suggest it's a set up/ breaking in issue rather than a fault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure of the brakes you are running, but guessing they're cable discs due to having axillary levers. I'd ensure :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the brake pads are bedded in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the disc brake rotor alignment is good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the pad contact point is correct (refer to your brakes manual)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17597/disc-brake-break-in&quot;&gt;Disc brake break-in?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that didn't help I'd check that the auxiliary levers aren't impeding the full cable pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T03:24:17.810" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-21T23:08:35.263" Score="10" ViewCount="13532" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are disc brakes more effective on rainy weather? I had a close call riding my road bike during a morning rain and almost collided with a parked car. My road bike is steel and has tektro branded caliper brakes. Should I get a disc brake commuter bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17100" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T10:53:50.280" Title="Disc brakes better for rainy days?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28632" CreationDate="2015-01-21T23:15:29.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes disc brakes are more effective in rain (and dry).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you should spend the money for a disc brake commuter bike is something for you to decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rain I ride more defensively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2017-07-04T10:53:50.280" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T10:53:50.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28632" CreationDate="2015-01-22T00:12:38.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The delay period you normally experience with caliper brakes is much less noticeable with disc brakes, especially a good quality pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even more noticeable is that on much steeper inclines and especially in damp conditions caliper brakes, as I'm sure you've noticed, tend to have an all or nothing attitude when it comes to applying pressure. Disc brakes on the other hand will let you finesse the braking power and keep your wheels from locking up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside really is that you won't be able to swap your wheels between your disc-brake commuter and your caliper-equipped road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T00:12:38.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28632" CreationDate="2015-01-22T00:15:57.523" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes are generally more effective in the rain than rim brakes, but using rim brakes properly in the rain has served people well for many years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to feather the brakes to remove the water+crud from the rims. Softer brake pad compounds can also help you brake more easily. Also, having good quality brakes that are well adjusted is always a good thing too. Remember that you also need to brake earilier in the rain, regardless of the type of brake, and be more careful than in the dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have small hands, make sure also the small hand inserts are in for your brake levers (if it has them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T00:15:57.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28609" CreationDate="2015-01-22T10:05:05.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike uses a &quot;high direct mount&quot; front derailleur - so yes, you can upgrade to an X0, as long as it's a high direct mount model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRAM and Shimano both sell &quot;non-group&quot; transmission and braking components, usually only to OEM customers (i.e. the bike manufacturers). This means they aren't in a &quot;group&quot; (e.g. X7, X9, XX1, Deore, SLX, XT, etc) but allow bike manufacturers to hit a certain price point. For instance I've got some brakes and hubs that're roughly equivalent to Shimano Deore components, but they're fairly plain looking, with only a Shimano logo on them. They're perfectly good parts - just not quite as high end / refined as as the ones that get the nice branding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4307" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T10:05:05.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28638" CreationDate="2015-01-22T10:30:26.013" Score="1" ViewCount="3334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a chain wear checker made by BBB, but not sure what the percentage of worn is about?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SHNRt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It has 2 sides, one of them indicates that the chain is worn 75% and I should replace it in the near future. The other side shows, that the chain is 100% used and should replace it as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My detailed question&lt;/strong&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does these percentage mean? What is the equivalent of it &lt;strong&gt;in the metric system&lt;/strong&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will 75% worn state affect my cogwheels also? Can I replace the chain to a new one without changing the drivetrain's other elements? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a single-speed bike. Chain width is 1/8 inch. It consists 94 chain. (400km (250miles) / month)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13937" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T14:30:48.737" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T21:40:41.527" Title="What does chain worn indicators 75% mean?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28637" CreationDate="2015-01-22T10:45:00.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The .75 is not 75% worn per se.&#xA;A chain checker measures chain stretch.&#xA;Chain stretch is an &lt;em&gt;indicator&lt;/em&gt; or wear-and-tear.&#xA;Parts of a drive train wear at different rates. For instance the teeth of the chainset will show wear when they become &quot;shark-finned&quot;. But this could be long after the point at which you should replace a worn chain.&#xA;If you persist in using a worn chain - though you may not notice anything detrimental - but when the chain eventually gives up - and you put a new chain on - you may find it skipping under load through the gears. This requires replacement of chain-rings / cassettes.&#xA;An earlier replacement sought - would have prolonged the life of chain-rings / cassettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your last question - it is difficult to say - if you ask a manufacturer - they will say no difference. Personally, I think the wider chains lasted longer and are stronger than the narrower 10/11 speed chains of today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't know of any exceptional single-speed chains ... just keep it well oiled and it will last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T10:45:00.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28632" CreationDate="2015-01-22T10:59:06.723" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done my motorcycle test and know all about defensive riding techniques - and you apply it no matter what bike you are riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; rim and disc brake bicycles on my winter training and on my commuter bike. On the winter bike I have swapped out the pads to a softer compound for better braking performance (but not so good for longevity). Even with this change - I often find wanting for more power on descents or rapid &amp;amp; predictable braking in wet conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commuter bike has discs (Avid BB5) - and the braking in the wet is significantly better - I also feel safer in that I know I can stop reliably in any conditions.&#xA;The downside is the weight - it doesn't sound like much but it doesn't translate into a performance ride. Which is why I have to maintain a winter training bike for club and group rides and a commuter for solo rides to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And remember - your brakes are only as good as the rubber contact patch under your wheels. So decent tyres and a half-decent width - I'd say 25mm minimum or better still 28mm if you have the clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastEditorUserId="16979" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T19:12:43.197" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T19:12:43.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28643" CreationDate="2015-01-22T12:53:50.320" Score="5" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mean, I have a single-speed bike and have chains width 1/8 inch.&#xA;The other standard I could use on my bike is 3/32 inch wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference in durability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13937" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T20:14:16.240" Title="Is there a difference between the durability of the chains with 1/8 and 3/32 inch?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28637" CreationDate="2015-01-22T13:32:55.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is not 75%, it is 0.75%. - as @Batman said. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to other sources, it is already too late to change the chain. (Than what the purpose of this tool? - would be the next question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_chain#Wear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; : &quot;Twenty half-links in a new chain measure 10&quot; (254 mm), and replacement is recommended before the old chain measures 256 mm (0.7% wear)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13937" LastEditorUserId="13937" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T13:50:34.540" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T13:50:34.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28640" CreationDate="2015-01-22T15:37:19.550" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. All other things being equal a 1/8&quot; chain will be a tiny bit sturdier than a 3/32&quot;, just by virtue of the fact that the plates are a little thicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a single speed bike, I also choose to run a 1/8&quot; chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T15:37:19.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28658" CreationDate="2015-01-22T18:42:28.333" Score="3" ViewCount="1731" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the end of the ski season is approaching, I am thinking about visiting our ski resort by bicycle. I would like to do it at the end of the season to avoid the inconvenience of the crowd, and minimize the inconvenience I would make for others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the ski resort we have, it is pretty unusual to have bicycles. The chairs don't have any hooks or other appliances to hold bicycles, and the crew might not be able (or willing) to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these circumstances, how can I ensure safe and smooth boarding and disembarking? I will be in a small group (2-4 people), all of us having standard (non-fat) mountain-bikes. I am willing to do basic disassembly (e.g. remove wheels) if it would help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our ski-lifts have standard chairs, designed for 2 persons (like in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mathcs.emory.edu/~cheung/Courses/558/Projects/FIGS/ski-lift.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; example picture); they are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; of the type that slows down when in the boarding/disembarking area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4056" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T07:57:00.877" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T07:57:00.877" Title="How to board a ski chairlift that is not intended for bicycles?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28644" CreationDate="2015-01-22T21:16:33.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ski patrolled and carried toboggans up a lift like that all the time.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A toboggan is bigger and heavier than a bike. &#xA;No you cannot drop the safety bar (on that type of chair). &#xA;Ideally would haul up with two but I was strong enough to haul alone. &#xA;If there was tail wind it could be scary even with two.        &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sit back and suck the weight (top tube) into your chest to get your weight back so you don't go out the front.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you disembark I would think run it out rather then try to mount the bike immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T21:35:04.453" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T21:35:04.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28637" CreationDate="2015-01-22T21:40:41.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a non-single speed bike, rear cogs are pretty pricy, and when chain measure tool showing 1.0 it's probably already affected cogs. At 0.75 it's probably didn't affect the cogs yet. So it's preferable to change the chain before.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On a single speed bike it will not greatly affect cogs. Thou it sensible when riding and you should feel the ride better with new chain.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Personally, I don't use this tool, but a meter. As @kisp brought from wiki, if every 2 half-links equals 1 inch (20 half links are 10 inches), if those 2 half links become 2.56cm, it's up to change the chain. It's a bit hard to measure 2 half links, but when you take 20 it become easier. Yet, if you have a ruler with inches, it's very easy to measure 2 half links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T21:40:41.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28644" CreationDate="2015-01-22T22:30:29.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in college, I did some downhilll racing at a ski resort with chairs like the ones you're talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One guy carried his bike like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AkD8E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bike across the lap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had the advantage that when he dismounted, he just set the rear wheel down while still sitting in the chair, stood up, and walked off the lift with the bike next to him. The disadvantage was that it was an awkward ride to the top. If I remember correctly, it was also a little awkward to get onto the lift. He just sort of muscled it all into place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I don't have a picture but most of us did it differently. We would straddle our bikes just like we were about to mount them while waiting for the lift. When the ski lift came up behind us, we would pick our bikes up and set the handlebars across our laps with the frame between our legs. As we got lifted up, the bikes would just dangle below the lift chair. Then, to dismount, we would just set the rear wheel down, stand up straddling the bike like when we got on the lift, and take a couple of awkward steps forward, just like you might do if you stop a little short at a stop light or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way had the advantage of being super easy to get yourself and the bike onto the lift, as well as being easy to hang onto your bike on the way up. You could also fit two people on the chair at the same time. On the flip side, it was awkward to get off the lift, but dismounting never felt dangerous at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, the ride to the top was super scary (for me, at least). As you can see from the picture, there's no safety bar on those lifts. You could feel the weight of the bike causing the chair to lean forward a bit. I preferred to lift my bike a little higher than everyone else and rest the seat on the edge of the chair between my legs. This allowed me to pull the handlebars back closer to my face, balancing the whole chair out a bit. It was a little awkward to hold the bike like that, but the lift chair felt more stable. It clearly wasn't necessary since no one else did it and no one fell off the lift, but it made me feel better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T22:30:29.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28664" CreationDate="2015-01-23T00:27:58.983" Score="1" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, The speed wobbles were symptomatic of a harmonic interaction. The wobbles have not returned after adjusting the weight distribution on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently encountered &lt;em&gt;speed wobbles&lt;/em&gt; going down a bridge at 40 mph.  I am interested in understanding what triggers the &lt;em&gt;wobbling&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first thought was that this may have occurred from unevenly tightened spokes. Any information regarding this frightening phenomenon is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40157" LastEditorUserId="40157" LastEditDate="2018-11-12T04:00:21.603" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T04:00:21.603" Title="What is the cause of &quot;speed wobbles&quot;?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28649" CreationDate="2015-01-23T00:34:36.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of material online about the causes of speed wobbles, but I haven't seen spoke tension as a common cause.  It usually something created by, and stopped by, rider position rather than anything on the bike (I know you didn't want to read that).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a thought though: wouldn't uneven spoke tension show up in the wheel not being &quot;true&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, look up Jobst Brandt's book &quot;The bicycle wheel&quot;.  It's the definitive text about this subject, written by a very meticulous engineer and cyclist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0960723668&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-3rd-Jobst-Brandt/dp/0960723668&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T00:34:36.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20254" CreationDate="2015-01-23T00:50:56.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just tried velotoze &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velotoze.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.velotoze.com/&lt;/a&gt; and they are quite good.  Not perfect but keep my shoes far drier than any others I've tried.  Socks got a little wet but they're far easier to dry out than shoes.  They are a very tight fit and cater for clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17116" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T00:50:56.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-23T10:23:40.540" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I have a worn spacer as it has ragged edges.   Does anyone have the length of this spacer when new?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17120" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T07:41:45.373" Title="What is the length of the Hope XC internal spacer from freehub to bearing?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20254" CreationDate="2015-01-23T13:37:37.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a pair of Gore-Tex trainers when it's wet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They keep my feet dry, I walk around normally with them the rest of the day. I don't have clipless pedals, but I do have toeclips which can be easily adjusted for different types of shoe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also keep the wind off quite well when it's cold, and have been fine recently when it's been a few degrees below freezing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealskinz waterproof socks are quite good too, but it means you still get wet shoes and it's just easier to just have waterproof footwear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good mudguards are also highly recommended for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T13:37:37.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28649" CreationDate="2015-01-23T13:49:24.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A stronger and better riding wheel is gained from a more even spoke tension. &#xA;Might be an idea to take the wheel to a get it re-tensioned. &#xA;ie. slacking off the tension on the wheel and then re-tensioning and truing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High speed wobble is a bit of an enigma. Given the speed you were travelling - 40mph - the wheel would be spinning at about 500RPM. The slightest deformation or imbalance in the wheel or tyre could easily cause a &quot;wobble&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your mention of uneven tension - it could be this with the combination of speed and rider could introduce deformations in the wheel as it spins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hypothesis...&#xA;As the wheel spins - it is the top-most spokes at the 12'O clock position which are under &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; load. Those are the 6'O clock position are in least loaded position. If you have uneven spoke tension - I imagine the rim at 6'O clock will be flexing a little more than normal - ie. deformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T13:49:24.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28649" CreationDate="2015-01-23T14:26:33.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had a wobble on a bicycle, but have experienced it on a motorcycle a few times.  I wouldn't expect uneven spoke tension to cause it, unless you have multiple spokes with near zero tension.  The first thing I'd check is if your headset is really loose.  On a motorcycle, it's usually a problem on the BACK that causes a wobble.  Maybe a REALLY loose rear hub, a cracked seat stay.  Were you coasting or pedaling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T14:26:33.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-23T14:36:52.153" Score="1" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a Fuji Track Classic bicycle. It's meant to be my commuter bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was resigned to using a clip-on fender, but when I looked more closely it appeared that there should be room to mount full fenders on the frame. There's lots of clearance. The front for even has mounting points for a fender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any guideline for clearance that I should be conscious of? Does it look like it will work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WukPK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front clearance&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ywtno.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear clearance&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T09:43:12.020" Title="full fenders on a track bike" Tags="&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28644" CreationDate="2015-01-23T15:58:43.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done this only once, but have observed a lot of people carrying bikes like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lift in question is just as in your picture - 2-person open lift with safety. The chairs slow somewhat while in the station, but mostly hit you in the butt. So there are two things you need to do, and the results are both easy and safe. Furthermore, both seats can be used, by two riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, take a t-shirt and wrap it around the top tube of your bike, close to the saddle. This will protect the paint from scratches against the chair frame (I underestimated this and got a large scratch on the side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, lower your saddle and turn it 90 degrees to the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, stand in front of the trolly chair(it's going to hit you in the butt), your bike at your side, outside of the chair's path. Hold it steadily - handlebars and top tube. When the time comes, just sit. Rest the bike on the saddle at the side of the chair. Hold it steadily for the frame. Now you can release the handlebar hand and engage your safety bar or open a beer :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T15:58:43.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-23T16:15:50.617" Score="1" ViewCount="5972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had to give up running and decided to start commuting to/from work (about 15 miles round trip) so I could maintain my cardio fitness. One problem is I like to ride my cruiser (a Masi Soulville) and use that as my commuter. It's a coaster-brake-only setup, and I was wondering how I could tell if it would accept a front brake, and if so, what to look for in said front brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17121" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-01-24T17:19:55.760" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T17:19:55.760" Title="How can I tell if I can add a front brake to my cruiser?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-23T17:45:40.080" Score="6" ViewCount="16862" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/uk/en/bikes/2011/archive/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek archives&lt;/a&gt;, I see they have frame materials described as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alpha Black Aluminum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alpha White Aluminum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alpha Gold Aluminum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gold Series Aluminum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100 Series Alpha Aluminum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do these compare to other manufacturers who list the alloy number (6061, 6069, 7005, etc) and double/triple butted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7581" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T10:23:46.473" Title="Trek Aluminium Grade Comparison" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28659" CreationDate="2015-01-23T18:00:18.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To install a front brake you will need to have a fork that will accept the brake caliper.  There are three potential options for this: A standard road caliper (hole through the fork crown), cantilever/ v-brakes ( one post on either side of the fork blade) or a disc mount (bracket at the end of the fork on the non-drive side).&#xA;The Masi Soulville should have the first option, a hole drilled through the fork crown for installing a standard road caliper.&#xA;You will need to get a road caliper that is intended for use with a flat bar brake lever, as many road calipers are intended for use with drop handlebar levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T18:00:18.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28661" CreationDate="2015-01-23T18:06:44.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/mountain-biking/791528-technical-question-trek-alloy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;they compare&lt;/a&gt; very directly with other manufacturers who list the alloy and butting, except that Trek doesn't release that.  My guess is that some of those descriptions actually overlap and are just marketing hype that changes every couple of years.  Your best bet would probably be to contact Trek directly and and see if they will &quot;translate&quot; their marketing terminology for you.  Based on that forum, it looks like some people have already had limited success with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T18:06:44.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28649" CreationDate="2015-01-23T18:52:48.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone that rides a light road bike long enough eventually has this happen to them regardless of the bike. It is terrifying and many people never trust their bike again&#xA;after that, but it's not the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed wobbles on a bike are always blamed on the components or frame, but are almost always caused by a harmonic interaction between the rider and bicycle. It is certainly possible for there to be a mechanical problem, but if there were it would show up at slow speeds as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article explains the mechanism &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The natural reaction when this starts to happen is to grip the bars tighter and that almost always makes the problem worse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play around, you can get any reasonably light road bike to shimmy at lower speeds by &quot;shaking&quot; the handlebars. FWIW, I feel like this is much easier on steel alloy bikes than either aluminum or carbon bikes. I think this is due to the better spring response of steel compared to other materials. This is something that is worthwhile to mess around because you'll learn to recognize the initial oscillation and how to damp it out before it becomes dangerous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T18:52:48.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-23T19:29:23.440" Score="1" ViewCount="780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to remove the rust from inside my steel frame. There are, however, a few small holes in various places along the frame. Any tips on how I can make these water tight so that I can fill it with vaporust and leave it overnight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16983" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T13:15:17.320" Title="How do I make my frame water tight?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-23T19:54:08.233" Score="5" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious if there are any empirical experiments, or theoretical computational results, comparing the &quot;footprint&quot; size of the various fatbike/29er/mountain bike tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of claims about how this tire can get through that material better than this tire.  But, at the end of the day, the reason for these differences is the size of the tire makes with the surface of the road/trail/snow/mud/sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get that these things change with tire pressure as well, so feel free to add that as a variable.   I weigh 180 pounds, so that's what I'll be using if I do this experiment this weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My lack of results in Google may be due to my unfamiliarity with the right terms.  If there's a better term for what I want, I'd love to know that as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7485" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T20:48:01.453" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T21:22:48.247" Title="Fatbike tire footprints?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;fatbike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28666" CreationDate="2015-01-23T20:27:15.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this image on &quot;the web.&quot; It doesn't give a comprehensive answer to your contact patch comparison request, but it gives a pretty clear idea of the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPjRj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fatness comparison&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T20:27:15.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28666" CreationDate="2015-01-23T21:22:48.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are more variables that you are missing.  Rim width is also a factor as well as the tire &quot;setup&quot; itself (tubeless or tubed).  So all the variables you would be looking at are tire width and size, rim width, tire pressure and wheel setup (tubeless or tubed).  For any or the data to be meaningful, you'd need all of that data.  Generally you will get the widest footprint/contact patch by riding a wide tire on a wide rim at low pressures with a tubeless setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T21:22:48.247" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28665" CreationDate="2015-01-24T00:12:38.293" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't make your frame water tight. That will only make your problem worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unfortunate to see a frame go bad due to internal rust, but it needs to remain unsealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is that moisture will find its way in and needs a way out. Even if you never ride in the rain, condensation of water vapor alone will allow liquid water to accumulate inside the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most frames (I believe) have small drain holes near the bottom bracket for this reason alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a nice little post from Gunnar about why their frames have drain holes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gunnarbikes.com/site/2012/06/draining-your-bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gunnarbikes.com/site/2012/06/draining-your-bike/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2015-01-24T00:23:10.507" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T00:23:10.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-24T04:05:49.723" Score="-1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an ONYX ONE 29' cruiser bike. It's a really big bike and it has rear wheel brakes. &#xA;I recently removed the back wheel with a power tool, for I tried to remove it with a wrench, and it wouldn't come off.  I think I might of stripped the inner axle of the back wheel hub however. &#xA;Now, I have installed the wheel, it turns when I'm off it, but when I get on it...I cannot pedal. I cannot pedal even when I'm off the bike. &#xA;The back brake mechanism is off to the other side. I can put it back on...but I don't think that is the problem. ??? Can anyone help out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17128" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T17:44:27.243" Title="Back wheel cannot turn." Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28659" CreationDate="2015-01-24T04:54:41.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing you have to figure out is the &quot;brake reach&quot; or distance from the hole in the fork to the rim of the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with most bike things Sheldon has answered it better than we ever can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that you'll need a brake with a very long reach for a cruiser bike. Oddly enough these are generally dirt cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/tektro-984-bmx-sidepull-brake-black?gclid=CPqXh6zpq8MCFQqIfgodExoAKg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/tektro-984-bmx-sidepull-brake-black?gclid=CPqXh6zpq8MCFQqIfgodExoAKg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other gotcha is that they don't brake all that well due to the flex in the long arms, but they are certainly better than no brake at all. With the relatively fat tires and slow speed typical of cruiser bikes, they work well enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T04:54:41.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-24T06:38:58.413" Score="0" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found an old Shogun Trailbreaker on the side of the road and I'm slowly fixing it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It currently has centrepull cantilever brakes, which work fine on the front, however the rear brakes barely make a difference. I've tightened the brake lead (?), adjusted the position of the brake pad, and checked that the wheel is true, but no matter how hard i squeeze, they barely stop the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think they will just need new brake pads, but I'm wondering if I should just replace both front and rear brakes with v-brakes? If so, how does one choose a brand/make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17130" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T17:33:18.200" Title="Repair or Upgrade Centrepull Brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28672" CreationDate="2015-01-24T06:46:51.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to note is that v brakes need their own levers (long pull), as they don't use the same cable pull as standard cantilever brakes, so that may add an extra expense (unless you have one of the few levers which are switchable between V-brakes and regular brakes). Thus, if you want to switch to V-brakes, you need either {a V-brake compatible lever (long pull) and a V-brake} or {a regular lever (short pull) and a travel agent (essentially a pulley) and a V-brake}. The option of a V-brake compatible lever and V-brake is typically the better and cheaper one if you want to go V-brake (unless you need to use an existing lever, such as Shimano STI levers with a V-brake, in which case you need to take the other option). Note that if you have an integrated brake and shift lever, going to V-brakes would also mean buying a new shifter as well. (*)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what to buy, we don't do product rec on this site. However, for drop bars, the Tektro RL-520 brake lever is pretty much the only model (aside from a rebadged Cane Creek) out that I know for V-brakes. For flat bars, the options are pretty much all there - Avid, Shimano, Tektro, etc. all make levers marked for V-brakes (or equivalently, non-road mechanical disc brakes) - pick one which feels nice. Similarly, those 3 companies also make a wide variety of V-brakes. My personal setup is Shimano Alivio brake levers with Avid Single Digit 5/7 V-brakes on a bike with flat bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying new pads (esp. if the old ones are worn/dry) may help. Adjusting things like the mechanical advantage may also be necessary - &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; may be of use, and new cables may be in order for an old bike as well. Certainly, a new set of pads or even a new cantilever will be cheaper than switching to V-brakes (and may be perfectly adequate), but you'll likely get better stopping power easier with a V-brake setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) There exist mini-V brakes which work directly with short pull levers, like Paul's Mini Moto. These are generally not cheap though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-01-24T07:00:44.657" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T07:00:44.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28531" CreationDate="2015-01-24T07:23:01.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've managed to receive an actual answer from the manufacturer. Turns out all my emails were routed straight to spam folder. The fork in question was Hongfu FM166, other resellers probably have it under similar name. Maximum recommended spacers stack size, as quoted by customer support, is &lt;strong&gt;30mm&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T07:23:01.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28661" CreationDate="2015-01-24T10:23:46.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/support/faq/question/what_are_the_differences_between_all_the_materials_you_use_in_your_frames/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/support/faq/question/what_are_the_differences_between_all_the_materials_you_use_in_your_frames/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link might be helpful. It describes only two grades of alloy for their current bikes. The higher grade being hydroformed. Hydroforming allows profiling and shaping of the tubes. Its comparative to blow moulding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to then older tubesets - I seem to remember the differences being grade and butting. The higher end frames using lighter tubesets and triple butted.&#xA;Most bike manufacturers in those days bought in their high end tubes from possibly the likes of Easton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T10:23:46.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1256" CreationDate="2015-01-24T10:53:54.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guy's at &lt;em&gt;Umwelt und Projektwerkstatt Freiburg e. V.&lt;/em&gt; (Germany) are developing a three wheel trailer for heavy loads.  It's named &lt;a href=&quot;http://carlacargo.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carla Cargo&lt;/a&gt; and it's Open Source Hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lK1Zw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their &lt;a href=&quot;http://carlacargo.de/wiki/doku.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;documentation&lt;/a&gt; is just at the beginning (they spend their time more with building and trying out new stuff, than with documenting) and until now only in German.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dimensions can be seen at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.werkstatt-lastenrad.de/index.php?title=Bauanleitungen#Carla_Cargo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Werkstatt Lastenrad&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5182" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T10:53:54.257" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-01-24T10:53:54.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-24T23:46:01.343" Score="0" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this Garmin since December and all of a sudden it's not reading cadence and speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried resetting it but I think that made it worse. Can anyone help me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17137" LastEditorUserId="452" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T18:37:33.617" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T19:04:09.820" Title="Garmin edge 510" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28678" CreationDate="2015-01-25T00:58:16.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try another speed cadence to see it works with that or try yours with another Garmin (friend?). Sometimes the sensor shifts a bit; I found that it has to be really close to the pedal to function properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Folks in bike shops are often very friendly/helpful with such things. The battery could also be an issue.  ~510 owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13042" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T23:47:11.747" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T23:47:11.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-25T01:27:08.463" Score="4" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last September I did a 400km trip in ~23 hours.&#xA;For food I went through 20 cliff bars. My stomach was pretty upset with all of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This year I wanna try 500km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for an alternative food source, something consumable in large quantities and friendly on the stomach. Yet fits into my back pack. (Although stopping 1-2 at a grocery store would be Ok also).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering making energy drinks and bring 3L container with me in my backpack with straw that goes to mouth. But, erm, can you get by on liquid drinks alone? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other food that is friendly on the stomach, consumable while cycling and has a lot of energy to sustain ongoing high performance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I was going through ~700 calories an hour, it was about 12,000 calories total). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13042" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-01-25T22:18:31.257" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T22:18:31.257" Title="Food for 400+km ride? (in single session)" Tags="&lt;nutrition&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-01-25T22:27:38.420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-25T02:59:37.783" Score="2" ViewCount="2382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a Conquer brand trainer - I have learned a lot after buying this thing - but I didn't know what quick release skewers were before I purchased the trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a skewer that came with the trainer and after replacing the wheel to take a quick release, I fit the skewer onto the wheel and frame. After doing this, the skewer sticks out about 5/8in beyond the cap. This will not work in the trainer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I cut this down with a saw? Should I expect to have trouble in the future if I do this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the realm of bicycling, so thanks for any help with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1XbH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;skewer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/2WhZ8Kc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/2WhZ8Kc &amp;lt; image url&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17136" LastEditorUserId="17136" LastEditDate="2015-01-25T03:30:05.570" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T14:27:18.097" Title="Can I cut down a quick release skewer?" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;&lt;skewer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28665" CreationDate="2015-01-25T03:55:47.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can, take more than one day to soak your frame in vaporust/framesaver/etc.  Set your frame up in one orientation, then roll it to another axis every 12hrs or so (it's not an exact science, don't bother setting a timer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electrical tape over the smaller drain points on your stays and your bottom bracket, but tape a good pad of paper towel over the larger points (seat tube, head tube, bottom bracket shell points).  This will save your flooring in the long run instead of worrying about a watertight seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I roll on steel myself and try to hit my frame with framesaver once a year.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17139" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T03:55:47.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2015-01-25T05:21:37.063" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do is just get some electrical or duct tape and wrap it tightly around my ankle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17140" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T05:21:37.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-25T09:33:52.800" Score="1" ViewCount="4220" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between Fox Float CTD Evolution and Fox Float CTD Performance? Except that one is most expensive and better? I mean real difference...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15910" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T16:15:52.377" Title="Fox Float CTD Evolution vs Fox Float CTD Performance" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28665" CreationDate="2015-01-25T13:15:17.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what I would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Identify all the openings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strip the frame of everything (including headset)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start covering all of the obvious holes with ducktape and leave one open (BB or headtube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use something to pressurize the frame (air compressor or bike pump) in one opening that you left on the frame, use ducktape to seal around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start blocking all the holes you find with small portions of ducktape till you find all holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just one method to find the holes. You could use water to find the holes as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the sealing of the holes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blocking the holes for the Evapo-rust, I would take an old inner tube and start cutting it up into small pieces. Using a big fist full of zip ties I would start replacing the small pieces of ducktape that is covering the holes with a gasket seal made with the cut pieces of inner tube and the zip ties.  The zip ties will be used to provide compression against the inner tube sort of like a band-aid. You can plug holes in areas that are not uniform by folding up the inner tube to compress into the areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the head tube and bottom bracket you could use small square pieces of wood with a piece of inner tube cut and flattend out on the wood to put on both sides of the opening (you will need 4 square pieces of wood and 4 square cut pieces of inner tube). You can use the zip ties to pull the two pieces of wood together compressing against the top and bottom of the head tube and both sides of the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will create a water tight seal and you will not have to deal with tape all over the place that might not hold the liquid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used this method to repair transmission cooling lines on a truck broke down on the side of the road on the way to a bike race!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14647" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T13:15:17.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28687" CreationDate="2015-01-25T16:43:02.243" Score="0" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a bike with a &quot;7 gear&quot; SRAM MRX 200-70 gear shifter. However, the SRAM gear shifter only clicks 6 time (corresponding to 6 gear changes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the SRAM gear shifter faulty, and in need of replacement? Or can I make an adjustment to access the 7th gear? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: when the cable is completely slack, I can still only hear six clicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17142" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-01-25T20:08:37.617" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T20:08:37.617" Title="Incorrect number of clicks on SRAM MRX gear shifter" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28686" CreationDate="2015-01-25T17:28:59.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should only hear 6 clicks: 1-&gt;2 , 2-&gt;3, 3-&gt;4, 4-&gt;5, 5-&gt;6, 6-&gt;7 when shifting up on a 7 speed system, and reverse the arrows when shifting down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't shift through all the gears, check that the derailleur is not bent, you have adequate cable tension, the low and high limits are set correctly (these should be a set once and forget it thing) and then play with the indexing adjustment (the barrel adjuster at the derailleur). See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; for more details. If your cables are old and rusted or kinked, you may need a new shift cable as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just purchased the bike from a shop, they should adjust it for you for free if it was recent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these are cheap shifters, so if there is indeed something wrong with the shifter (e.g. you meant to say you were only hearing 5 clicks), you're going to have to throw it out and buy another one for around 15 dollars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T17:28:59.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28690" CreationDate="2015-01-25T18:19:10.933" Score="2" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used hockey tape on the drop bars for my bike and I need to remove it to replace the brake levers. Over time, the tape has become melted/fused together, and I used lots of layers for extra cushioning, and I can't just peel it off. Are there any tips or tricks for removing it that don't require a Delorean to undo my bad decision to use hockey tape in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T19:49:25.497" Title="How do I remove old hockey tape from drop bars" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;grips&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-25T18:22:29.317" Score="1" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems to me that the Q-factor for an external bearing bottom bracket will be greater than that of an equal size (say, 68mm road bike BB) cartridge bearing.  Is that the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17143" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T20:04:08.940" Title="Q-factor of external bearing BBs" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28688" CreationDate="2015-01-25T19:49:25.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A razor blade/knife/x-acto knife should cut it. Hockey shops have special knifes for cutting through hockey tape if you want a specialized device. This shouldn't be a problem for non-carbon bars though, if you're careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The residue can be removed with rubbing alcohol or soapy water or mineral spirits (again, for carbon, I'm not sure what you'd do). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T19:49:25.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28689" CreationDate="2015-01-25T20:04:08.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one thing, many cartridge style bottom brackets will have some spindle exposed when the crank is mounted. This is because even though two bottom brackets might both be 68 mm, one may have a longer spindle than the other. If you mount the same crank on both bottom brackets, it might fit flush against the bottom bracket shell on the shorter spindle, but would have a gap on the longer spindle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, most cranks curve outward from the bottom bracket so that the cranks will clear the chainstays. You can see what I mean in this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike198.com/review-shimano-deore-xt-mtb-component-group/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHvGp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Deore XT Crankset&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's obviously an external bottom bracket, but a crank that sat flush against the bottom bracket shell would have to have an even more significant curve to clear the chain stays (assuming the crank arms were the same length, thickness, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, Q-factor refers specifically to the distance between the point where the pedals attach to the crank arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_q.html#qfactor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oz0PK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sheldon Brown Q-factor diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, many people refer to Q-factor in the broader sense of the distance between your feet when pedaling. Given this broader definition, your Q-factor would also be affected by the length of your pedal spindles combined with the position of your feet on the pedals, whether you're clipped in or riding on platforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T20:04:08.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-25T22:51:00.847" Score="9" ViewCount="1915" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience of using puncture resistant tyres when they have been cut so badly as the object pierces the tyre right through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being Mr. Unlucky, 2-3 months ago I managed to get a puncture on my Schwalbe Marathon Plus'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the tub initially. When the second, third puncture happened, I started looking closer. The object (what I am guessing was a piece of glass, from memory) cleanly cut straight through the &quot;SmartGuard layer&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gsXvr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing puncture site&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCsz9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image showing puncture hole on the inside of the tyre&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess was the object was still embedded in the tyre as it took 1-2 days after fixing punctures 2, 3, 4 for next puncture to flatten the tire completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I examined the site, and tried to clean it out with a pair of tweezers, narrow knife, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options to continue using this tyre? I have (rightly or wrongly) applied some patch adhesive to the outside of the tyre on the puncture site, to see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RHCqd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of tyre with patch adhesive applied to site of puncture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I stop using it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T01:26:04.667" Title="Schwalbe Marathon Plus recurring puncture - options?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28695" CreationDate="2015-01-26T04:20:33.897" Score="0" ViewCount="12718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikebarn.co.nz/2015-merida-big-nine-20d-white.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikebarn.co.nz/2015-merida-big-nine-20d-white.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to swap out the forks for some rigid forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please tell me what specs I should be looking at to get the right fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17145" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T09:33:41.330" Title="What fork will fit my bike?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-01-26T16:17:57.553" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28692" CreationDate="2015-01-26T07:39:53.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If I understand correctly, you continued to get punctures until you found the embedded object which you dug out with a knife and tweezers.&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been in a similar situation many times and I suggest you try again. Punctures 1-4 where likely caused by the same object, which you hopefully removed this last time.  Does the tire have a small weakness at that hole, yes. But, the casing on these types of tires is incredibly tough. That is why they roll like bricks.  The tough casings however let you continue riding with small weaknesses without issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just inspect it after inflating, and for a while afterwards, to see if the hole gets larger or the tube starts to breach (you usually need a larger hole for that to happen).  I personally haven't had any problems with these small holes enlarging or new debris entering the hole.  That said, there is a non-zero probability than an object could pass through the whole and cause more problems.  If you know the tire contact patch size and you measure the area of the hole you could even compute that probability for bravado.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only other advice is getting more practiced at finding and removing debris. I usually keep the tire oriented so the tire label is over the valve stem.  That way when dealing with a flat I can track the tube flat back to the tire location quickly.  Then I running my bare hands around the inside found tire until I find the sharp that penetrated the tube.  Once you find it flexing the tire casing can often be enough to help loosen an embedded object so you can pull it out with your fingers, avoiding other tools such as pliers, tweezers, and knives.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, stop riding over the sea of broken glass and all will be well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T07:39:53.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28693" CreationDate="2015-01-26T09:16:46.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently just done the same thing and switched from suspension to rigid forks, although with a much older bike. There are a few things that you need to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is your type of headset, it will either be threaded or threadless. If you have a stem that clamps on the steerer tube and then your handle bars clamp onto the stem, you have a threadless headset. I can tell by the picture you have linked too that you do have a threadless headset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing you need is the diameter of you headset, which is generally 1 1/8 inches for modern mountain bikes but if you can find a specs sheet for your headset it will specify. If you cant find the info for your headset, just measure the steerer tube with a set of calipers and look at this page (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html&lt;/a&gt;) under &quot;Threadless Headset / Steerers&quot; and reference the measured dimension to identify the size of steerer tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last, and probably most importantly, you will need to know the axle to crown measurement. This is basically the measurement from the middle of your front axle to the top of your forks. There is plenty of info on the internet on how to take this measurement but the important thing is sit on the bike and get someone else to measure or get a friend of similar size to sit on the bike while you do it, this will ensure the slack is taken out of the suspension. This measurement will help you to get forks that are a suitable replacement length for your current ones. This is important because your frame has been engineered to work with forks of a given length and altering that geometry by a significant amount will alter the handling characteristics of your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that can help make it easier to select forks is to buy models that have been specifically made as replacements for suspension forks with a given amount of travel. If you know the amount of travel of your current suspension you can buy some forks that are specifically made to compensate for that amount of travel (i.e surly instigator 1.0 forks are made to replace shocks with 100mm of travel). It is still worth checking that the axle to crown measurement is similar to your current setup as they can vary in size by manufacturer. For example my original forks (2002 Rock Shocks Judy C) originally only had 80mm of travel but they are relatively long and I needed the Surly instigators to get the correct length. (They work awesomely well, by the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When picking new forks also make sure that they have the correct brake mounting fixtures. You will often need to specify for disc, or cantilever, or both. When you get the forks, it is probably easiest to take them to your LBS and get them fitted as they will need to take the fork crown race off your current forks and move them onto the new ones. This is best done with specialist tools, you can do it yourself, but it is not worth risking the damage to components as the crown race is specific to your headset and you may be up for a new headset if you damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure the new forks are made for your size of wheels, 26, 27.5 29 etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17146" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T09:16:46.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28693" CreationDate="2015-01-26T09:33:41.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are buying rigid mountain bike forks - you will need to buy the correct length for the suspension corrected geometry of your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike in your link has a 100mm fork - the majority of forks with a specified travel will measure the same length (axle-to-crown) plus or minus 10mm. If memory serves me correctly - the length of rigid fork &lt;strong&gt;you would be looking for is about 440mm axle-to-crown&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;420mm = 80mm travel fork&#xA;440mm = 100mm travel fork&#xA;470mm = 29er Rigid fork&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest part of fitting your forks will be the crown race removal and re-fitting from your old forks to new forks.&#xA;Its possible to gently lever the crown race off using an old chisel to get under it and tap it out - going around it tapping evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to re-fit the crown race onto the new forks using the jaws of an old &amp;amp; large adjustable spanner - again - going around it tapping evenly to remount flushly onto the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T09:33:41.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28678" CreationDate="2015-01-26T09:39:46.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Garmin 510 uses ANT+ to communicate to the add-on devices.&#xA;I would remove and re-pair the devices first to see if they are actually seeing each other first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The speed and cadence sensor should pair as a single device and not speed and cadence separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T09:39:46.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28657" CreationDate="2015-01-26T09:43:12.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly does look like you have ample clearance for fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those look long deep drop brake calipers too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have fender mounts on the rear - you can always use P-Clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T09:43:12.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8812" CreationDate="2015-01-26T11:13:30.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a stationary bike you can press down in your thighs with both hands while you pedal to get a pretty good upper body workout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a moving bike you might be able to use one hand to steer and one hand to press on a thigh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17148" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T23:46:31.177" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T23:46:31.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28990" CreationDate="2015-01-26T14:14:09.427" Score="3" ViewCount="1811" Body="&lt;p&gt;SRAM road rim-brake calipers (mine are specifically Rival from 2011) have a quick release lever to facilitate wheel changes, as many calipers do.  The SRAM QR lever has detents which make a little &quot;click click click&quot; noise and feeling as you rotate them.  Today I found out how that detent works, and wish I hadn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see, I was replacing the M4x6 button-head screws on the QR &quot;axle&quot;, as they were quite rusty (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/28467/sram-rival-brake-caliper-screws-bolts-are-rusty-how-to-replace&quot;&gt;SRAM Rival brake caliper screws/bolts are rusty, how to replace?&lt;/a&gt;).  I had unscrewed one of them a couple weeks ago to check the screw size, ordered the screws, and now had them in hand.  When I unscrewed the second one, I heard a little &quot;ping&quot; as something fell down on the floor.  I searched around for it, and behold, it was a tiny ball bearing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the process of opening up the first brake a couple weeks ago, I'm sure the ball popped out of it, and the floor has been vacuumed since then so goodbye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: can someone tell me what size the ball bearing is?  I can tell you it's roughly 1-2mm, but I don't have sufficiently precise equipment to measure it.  Bonus points for a link to purchase replacements (in small quantities!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, this design seems comically bad: they use a screw which for some reason is more prone to rust than any of the others in the groupset, and when you unscrew it there is this tiny metal ball sitting on a tiny metal spring waiting to eject it from the assembly.  It's no wonder why they don't call out these parts in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/_tS80WVr6sZM53V33oqH0EOixhbz3OjQhDhsOemm8NA/mtime:1372788169/sites/default/files/techdocs/2012_sram_extdt_wheel_hub_spc_rev_c_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;service manual&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMFMP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMFMP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-06-10T13:45:15.997" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T19:40:58.927" Title="What size is the tiny ball bearing used in SRAM rim-brake caliper quick release detents?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28692" CreationDate="2015-01-26T15:36:31.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that in spite of cleaning, there are still some sharp leftovers in the puncture site. You can try to get them out. Since you have glued the puncture spot, that might turn out to be quite difficult if not impossible. Personally, I would call it quits after 5-6 punctures, and get myself a new tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T15:36:31.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28713" CreationDate="2015-01-26T16:20:08.007" Score="4" ViewCount="10931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to road bikes. I bought a new road bike. I wanted to take the front wheel out, but it was difficult because, despite of having &quot;opened&quot; the brake pads (with the quick release lever found on the braking mechanism), the tire was thicker than the space between the pads. The same happens on my rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if I am making myself clear, so an answer to any of these three questions will help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this normal on road bikes? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this mean the pads should be further apart? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How far apart from the wheel should the brake pads (front and rear) be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17151" LastEditorUserId="17151" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T21:11:02.280" LastActivityDate="2019-07-20T12:23:44.117" Title="Brake pads and removing the wheels" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28702" CreationDate="2015-01-26T16:31:36.260" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might sometimes happen. The quick release is usually enough to make the pads wider than the tire, but this doesn't happen in every case.  The pads should usually be about 2mm from the rim when everything is set up.  If there is not enough room to remove your wheel after the quick release is used, you will have to loosen the cable. You can try doing this by loosening the barrel adjuster to see if that gives you the needed clearance, if not you may have to actually undo the cable, this is the least desirable solution as it makes things take a lot longer to get set up properly again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, people only remove their wheel when the tire is flat, and so, there shouldn't be any problem getting the tire past the brakes, as the tire can be squeeze and made narrower. If you have the tire fully inflated, it can be quite firm and hard to squeeze between the brake pads. Depending on the situation, you might want to remove the air from the tire before removing the wheel, or if you are fixing a flat, don't fully inflate the tire before you put it on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T16:31:36.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7928" CreationDate="2015-01-26T17:38:52.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem on an old mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I changed the derailleur and it doesn't do it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed the old one was not screwed in very tightly when swapping out so this could have caused it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a broken spoke and thought this caused it, re-spoked wheel with all new spokes.&#xA;I also swapped out the freewheel as I thought maybe the pawls had worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally changed the derailleur and it worked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17154" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T17:38:52.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28707" CreationDate="2015-01-26T18:28:57.520" Score="11" ViewCount="7778" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any bike headlights available that have a cut-off similar to a car's low beams, designed to avoid glare for other drivers? I am using the &lt;code&gt;Light in Motion Urban 400&lt;/code&gt; and while it's plenty bright, it blinds oncoming drivers if aimed normally. In traffic I have to aim the hotspot very low, basically defeating the purpose of having a pricy, bright LED light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there modifications that can be done to the existing light, like blocking part of the reflector that is responsible for sending light upwards? (It's a single LED with a simple paraboloid reflector) Reading about the complexity of the design and regulations for car headlights, this seems unlikely, but I'd love to be wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I am looking for recommendations for a better headlight. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/lights/lights-ftb/flux-elite-headlight#manuals&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specialized Flux&lt;/a&gt; and the older &lt;a href=&quot;http://download.p4c.philips.com/files/b/bf48l20bblx1/bf48l20bblx1_pss_aensa.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phillips SafeRide 80&lt;/a&gt; seem to fit the bill. Not sure how bright the Phillips is with 220 lumens, but it meets German regulations so surely it has a great beam shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17155" LastEditorUserId="17155" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T02:16:02.577" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T15:05:29.050" Title="Bike lights with beam cut-off to avoid dazzling drivers?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;&lt;night-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-26T19:42:12.163" Score="1" ViewCount="1509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting serious pain in my hamstrings for the past couple of months while cycling. I warm up before I get on the bike and once I go back the road a bit the pain starts in both hamstrings. I got physio on lower back, a bike fit, foam rolls every night still no good. If I stand up while cycling I get relief until I sit down again and once I get off the bike no pain what so ever in my hamstrings, nothing feels tender. Could anyone help people are starting to think it is all in my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17156" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T22:45:29.557" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T09:58:16.410" Title="Hamstring pain while cycling" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28705" CreationDate="2015-01-26T19:55:38.057" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have actually dramatically improved the cutoff on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dx.com/p/solarstorm-x2-2-x-cree-xm-l-u2-1200lm-4-mode-white-bicycle-light-black-4-x-18650-207021&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1200 lumen dual LED (just for reference)&lt;/a&gt; with a sort of brim made out of aluminium plate.  On road I run it on minimum brightness (guessing about 1/4 -- 1/3 power). On pitch dark bike paths I do change the angle a little as well as turning up the brightness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Super-speedy sketch (go inkscape!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kCeI9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sketch of bikelight mods&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The light body is about 60mm long, and the reflector is in approximately the right proportions.  I mocked it up with cardboard first, before using some 1mm plate - it's tucked away under the bars, under a front bag mount and all edge and corners are nicely rounded off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mounting underneath the handlebar is another issue -- overly reflective silver-grey brake and gear cables right in front of the light if it sat on top of the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not quite as good as it was before I tweaked the handlebar angle. On (slight) riser bars using the riser as intended I had it tipped up on the left to illuminate roadside signs (UK).  I've twisted the bars so the rise points forwards at about 45° and the aim isn't quite what I'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I promised pictures:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I5VLx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I5VLx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view of modified light&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side view&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ORgia.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ORgia.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front view of modified light&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front view&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jq0MO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jq0MO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Illumination pattern&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Illumination pattern (high ambient light levels)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T13:26:19.167" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T13:26:19.167" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28706" CreationDate="2015-01-26T20:05:43.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you been fitted on you bike ? It might be that your saddle is not a the appropriate height. More so if you have lower bike pain while cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some websites will provide bike fit measurement based on your body measurements (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one for example&lt;/a&gt;), you can start there. In general,  when the pedal is at 6 o'clock you want a slight bend in you knee (not fully extended, but not bent very much)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that looks OK, I would check you pedaling technique, maybe you're doing something wrong there that creates pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T20:05:43.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28692" CreationDate="2015-01-26T21:31:51.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the hole is small you can continue to use the tire. Leaving the debris in caused your other flats. This can happen on the best tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sticking a patch was a good move, but generally you should stick them to the inside of the tire so that it's between the casing and the tube. If you leave it outside it's going to rub off. This isn't mandatory, but it could help prevent other debris going in the hole and piercing your tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as always, look where you roll and avoid debris as much as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T15:36:58.233" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T15:36:58.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-26T21:54:14.307" Score="7" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOEDaqmrFq0&amp;amp;t=21m33s&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; the guy has clearly blocked his rear brake, as we can see the rear wheel is not rolling, but sliding. In this particular context, what has been his intent? Could have he done it for stopping, control/steering, look-cool-move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T19:01:09.997" Title="Why is this guy blocking the rear wheel?" Tags="&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28710" CreationDate="2015-01-26T22:36:22.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my estimation, the initial section was just lockup during heaving brake application during the descent (stopping as much as possible, and desiring more stopping force than the friction of the tire has to offer causing lockup).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lockup during the slide looks to have been done for more of a cool move, similar to using the parking brake to slide in a car. More cornering force can be applied from a non-locked wheel, so if his desire was to corner better then he wouldn't lock (intentionally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this could also just be the rider's 'style', or by contrast, completely unintentional, as motives are hard to discern from actions. I'm just basing this on my own trail riding; I do occasionally lock up unintentionally on descents, but sliding sideways is typically intentional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T22:36:22.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28706" CreationDate="2015-01-27T00:10:16.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is probably worth looking for a potential change in your set-up which may have caused new stresses on your body. I have been suffering with chronic knee pain for the past 18 months, and it was mainly due to increase in intensity in too short of a period. This damaged my ligaments/tendons which continue to flare up through exercise. Is there anything that you may have changed such as a new saddle, new shoes etc? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's always worth remembering that changing items likes shoes/cleats/saddles will have a knock-on effect with your height, even if it's minuscule. Unless the saddle is exactly the same model, it may sit higher or lower than the one previous and cause discomfort when riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you have had a bike fit, although from what I have heard these can be somewhat of a personal affair (vastly-differing opinions from shop to shop). I've never had a 'professional' bike fit, but managed to find my own comfort zone by adjusting my set-up in tiny amounts to see what differences it made. It could well be that your cleats (providing you have them) are positioned incorrectly, or alternatively your saddle is too low. Try small adjustments, even such as raising your saddle 5mm at a time and seeing if this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've learnt from experience after making some changes in terms of saddle and cleat choices prior to a 1400 miles cross-Europe cycle ride for charity. I needed to get it right in time, but not rush my set-up. I cannot emphasise how important small, gradual changes are as your body needs time to adjust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17159" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T00:10:16.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28702" CreationDate="2015-01-27T00:20:08.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your questions first before going into more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is quite common on road bikes as there isn't a massive amount of clearance between the wheel, tyre and forks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say you have to make the brake pads further apart.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brake pads are generally 2-3mm from the rim on either side. Too close and you'll have extremely sensitive brakes. Too much space and you'll be pulling the levers until they touch the handlebars - not good!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all a matter of your bike's configuration. You sound like you have a similar situation to my bike, but the answer is short and simple - you need to let some air out of your tyre to get it past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to loosen the brake blocks and manoeuvre them out of the way, but this requires setting them back into position once your wheel is back in place. Although not necessarily a tricky job, it's more hassle than it's worth (providing you simply don't have a pump to hand for the other method).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is of a similar nature in that the front brakes actually hit the inside of my fork when I use their quick-release mechanism. My only option is to let some air out (not much mind) and the tyre squeezes past. Finally, you could even consider narrower tyres which may fit past fully-inflated (this will affect the handling and comfort of the bike though...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17159" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T00:20:08.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27387" CreationDate="2015-01-27T00:39:25.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Silly question, but have you tried indexing your gears? I had hell with my 105 groupset (Cannondale too) when I first got it a couple of years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I find with gears is that if you start messing with all of the different settings, it can throw the whole system of entirely. It took me forever, partly because I was a novice at the time, to get them shifting properly again. Double check all of your alignments and positioning of your dérailleurs and then perform and indexing on your gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the chain on the inner chain-ring and on the largest cassette, ensuring that your gear lever cannot go down in gears any further. Now click your rear gear lever once, and once only. If it doesn't change gear to the next one on the cassette, use the barrel adjuster located on the rear-derailleur until the gear correctly shifts to the next gear and doesn't make any rough, catching noises. This should automatically progress through the whole range of gears without any further adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're convinced that the rest of it is set up correctly, I would be inclined to make sure that your rear axle isn't bent. I have an old wheel where the rear axle was made from a soft metal and subsequently bent whilst riding. This had a knock-on effect of causing my rear cassette to wobble with every wheel revolution and sometimes throw the chain's position off when shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17159" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T00:39:25.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28706" CreationDate="2015-01-27T09:58:16.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can - try riding on a static trainer (turbo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to say your bike-fit is wrong ... but there are different levels of bike-fit and I have also seen examples of where a rider has gone in for a bike fit and measurements not work in the &quot;real&quot; world ie. on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be able to make adjustments and gauge your comfort more safely. Also ride in and out of the saddle on the trainer as you would on the road too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T09:58:16.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28681" CreationDate="2015-01-27T12:40:29.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can cut the skewer, but be sure to leave enough thread on there to keep the nut on when the QR is opened enough to take it off your bike (without having to remove the nut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to file the sharp cut edge smooth afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T12:40:29.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28705" CreationDate="2015-01-27T14:46:29.637" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Germany, all bicycle lights above a certain lumen value have to have a low beam feature, so it's pretty standard here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you do not want to kludge your existing headlight get a german one, e.G. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.bumm.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Busch und Mueller Headlights&lt;/a&gt; always have a low beam feature, which they especially advertise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is their english web page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.bumm.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.bumm.de/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastEditorUserId="1494" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T14:24:28.743" LastActivityDate="2017-04-13T14:24:28.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28710" CreationDate="2015-01-27T15:33:51.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No reason at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NWD10 is a classic old school movie. You don't see purposeless skidding like that in today's  MTB movies nor do you see it in real life MTB riding. Kirt Voreis (the guy in that scene - legendary rider) is probably doing this for no reason, just for fun, or at least what used to be fun in these old times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T15:33:51.543" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28710" CreationDate="2015-01-27T17:17:21.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Between the uneven surfacing and the loose dusty dirt, I'd say this was purposeful use of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rear brake for control&lt;/a&gt;.  There are times when using the front brake is more likely to cause a crash (like when your front wheel is digging back and forth through a trench) and rear wheel braking is more appropriate.  It appears at the very end of the section, he is taking a turn.  I'd guess between the uneven trenches and loose, dry dirt, he decided to dump some speed.  There are actually at least two wheel locks in the video.  One early and the second where the trench keeps the wheel from sliding out and he tracks the front wheel along the high trail between the two trenches.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite what others have answered here, power sliding or drifting is often the most efficient way to corner on loose surfaces, which is why the parking brake is used so liberally in car rally racing.  On a bike it can be difficult because the front wheel is nearly impossible to control in a slide.  The rear wheel is much more manageable, however, and rear wheel slides to maintain control of speed, or cornering are used by many top riders in more technical mountain bike disciplines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T19:01:09.997" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T19:01:09.997" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-27T20:55:53.170" Score="2" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an electric bike with a Bosch engine (Performance Line) and a Nyon Computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Nyon is not able to connect to WPA or WPA2 password protected networks. If I remove authentication on my network I am then able to connect (and was able to update the device).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Bosch does not give any way to communicate with them (support is only through the dealer which I doubt will be able to help) I am trying here (if there a is more technical forum or exchange site please tell me)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to connect to a password protected WiFi Network (as stated in the manual) or is there a known bug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the latest update (August 2015) WPA2 seems to work. 802.11X is still completely broken (the Nyon does not even see/show the Network SSID)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17169" LastEditorUserId="17169" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T08:33:58.067" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T08:33:58.067" Title="Bosch Nyon and W-LAN" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28815" CreationDate="2015-01-27T21:01:38.617" Score="3" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an electric bike with a Bosch engine (Performance Line) and a Nyon Computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My eBike Connect app (on iPhone) is able to connect to the Nyon (see screenshot)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gjq8h.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but no activities are synchronised&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/luNzL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;although on the Nyon the activities are present&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pkffP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to make the app see the activities on the Nyon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17169" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T20:17:35.803" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T16:12:27.083" Title="Bosch Nyon computer -- syncs but no activities are transferred" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;&lt;electronics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-28T00:07:07.630" Score="0" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Japan, where bicycles are an amazing thing to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking for a bike that had a place to put my backpack, as well as quick in the city but able to go over rough patches of pavement with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally I was thinking of getting a mountain bike, and adding a rack and road tires, but would this be the best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17170" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T11:41:05.620" Title="What bike to get:" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-01-30T21:00:23.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28729" CreationDate="2015-01-28T01:33:58.807" Score="1" ViewCount="2304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cx bike with disk brakes. I bought a second set of wheels to run road tyres while not off road. On my road bike there's always a minor adjustment to make to the brakes when changing wheelsets, and I assumed this would be no different on the disk brakes. However, it takes me the better part of an hour to readjust the brake calipers on my cx bike as they seem to be so vastly different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this my mistake, should I have mounted the wheels before purchase? What do people here do with this sort of thing? Should I just dedicate more time to learning to efficiently adjust the brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Avid BB5 mechanical brakes with Bontrager and now Shimano wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7103" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T09:40:09.683" Title="Disk brake wheels - multiple wheelsets" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28705" CreationDate="2015-01-28T03:07:49.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Busch and Mueller Ixon IQ Speed - very pronounced cut-off at top. These have a low-light mode - good for street-lamp-lit roads as well as a very high-level mode which is great for unlit roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17171" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T03:07:49.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28726" CreationDate="2015-01-28T05:09:03.507" Score="7" ViewCount="18370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just noticed, to my great sadness, a small-ish buckle/dent in my diagonal lower tube. (I'm riding a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.99bikes.com.au/bike-cooper-t200-championship-50-ss-52cm-black&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cooper T200 single speed&lt;/a&gt;.) I just moved house; I hope I didn't do it. I probably did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about half way up and looks like it's been bent against something, or crushed between something - the tube itself is still straight, it just has a bit of a ding. It's probably only dented in a fraction of an inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fraction of an inch is no longer a perfect circle, though, and it'll inevitably weaken it. Question is, enough for me to worry about? Or should I just keep riding and forget it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride on roads, to work, nothing strenuous, but want to be able to hit the occasional pothole or what have you without constantly thinking that my frame is going to collapse under me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any &lt;em&gt;actual experience&lt;/em&gt; with this sort of &quot;injury&quot;? Any suggestions how I might fix it, short of replacing the tube? I don't care if it looks a bit rough, we're through the honeymoon period, it's just a functional machine now. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: added pictures, even though this is answered. Note that the other side of the tube to the visible dent is still perfect. (These are the same dent, from slightly different angles.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7uOfh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ding 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HbsBd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ding 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17172" LastEditorUserId="17172" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T10:40:47.527" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T16:51:08.417" Title="Is it safe to ride a steel bike with a dented/buckled frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28725" CreationDate="2015-01-28T06:04:03.937" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;All steel frames of any age get a few dings from serious use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The failure point for steel frames is usually the highest stress points: the joins. That is why we used to have fancy tubing sets likes Reynolds 351 double butted, and I notice that your frame does too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the dent is away from the joins I say the frame is ok for general use. Steel is quite a forgiving material, but I wouldn't be doing bunny hops on it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the dent is within 25% of the tube length, but more than 10cm (4 in) from a join, then I would be using it, but cautiously. If it's closer than 10cm from a join then I would get a shop to look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add that I've ridden high-end bikes for &lt;em&gt;decades&lt;/em&gt; after their first (heart breaking) dents. One of them has just died, but a fork failed (at the join), not the dented frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T06:25:58.233" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T06:25:58.233" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28725" CreationDate="2015-01-28T07:33:37.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dents in frames cause what is called a stress concentration point. Imagine you had a sheet of tinfoil, and you took a pin and poked a hole in the center of a 12x12 square. Now if you bend/warp the tinfoil many times, you'll see cracks/tears/stresses forming around that point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for frames, however, it takes a pretty serious dent to cause accelerate fatigue to the point where it would be dangerous. As with any bike: &lt;strong&gt;inspect it regularly for cracks&lt;/strong&gt;. That is something that should be done regularly anyhow. Otherwise, ride on! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17174" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T07:33:37.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28723" CreationDate="2015-01-28T09:40:09.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normal for using different wheel sets. Not all wheels are precisely the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a similar thing with wheels on one of my bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn to align calipers quickly it's a simple process (with wheel on):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen calliper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squeeze brakes twice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On third time hold brake in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With brake held in re tighten calliper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With practice should be about a minute a wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T09:40:09.683" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28722" CreationDate="2015-01-28T11:00:38.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this predicament several years ago when I decided to get back into cycling, but also use it as my main method of transport for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cut a long story short, I opted for a Cyclocross bike (think of a road bike-come mountain bike). These offer wider tyres, often the knobbly variety, which makes them perfect for off-road riding. You can also get semi-slick tyres which are a best of both worlds. Cross bikes give you a road-like setup in terms of the drop handlebars, but often provide the ability to take panniers and mudguards (fenders). So, if you want similar speeds of a road bike but the versatility of a mountain bike (within reason), cyclocross bikes are hard to beat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally toyed with the idea of a road bike, purely for the speed and with the hope of racing, but the ability to have panniers and mudguards sold it to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are stating that you want it to be going over rough pavement rather than off-road as I originally stated, slick tyres would be more than capable of this. Hybrid bikes are an option as mentioned in the other answer, but they may not be as quick a road-type setup. Saying that, the speed difference is probably negligible over short distances and it then becomes a matter of preference in terms of riding position. Hybrids offer the 'sitting up' position as found on mountain bikes, whereas a cross bike would be more bent over and using the drop handlebars as on a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17159" LastEditorUserId="17159" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T11:41:05.620" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T11:41:05.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28722" CreationDate="2015-01-28T11:19:08.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You almost certainly do not want a &quot;mountain bike&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;mountain bike&quot;, for me, has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quite thick tyres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lots of gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;potentially a thick/heavy frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding round town, those thick tyres will just add friction to your ride. They made it harder to pedal, they make you slower, and you don't need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it's very hilly where you live, you don't need 21 gears. You might need 7, tops. (I live in Melbourne, where it's very flat. I have 1 gear.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You almost certainly don't want or need a thick, heavy frame. Same reason you don't want thick heavy tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look at some sort of hybrid: not super-skinny tyres like the racers use, but nothing with &quot;knobbles&quot;. You only need knobbles if you're riding through mud. You won't be. A hybrid is more likely to be built with a basket/panniers in mind; they're designed for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, don't worry too much about &quot;rough road&quot;. Unless it's &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; rough, any decent modern frame will handle it. My single-speed with fairly skinny tyres handles anything I choose to ride over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see so many people with mountain bikes in the city and none of them look like they're having a good time! Google &quot;hybrid bike&quot;, you'll get results for your city. Go and have a look around some shops, talk to the staff, take a few bikes out for a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! And have fun. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17172" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T11:19:08.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28734" CreationDate="2015-01-28T11:42:11.807" Score="3" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some (most?) manufacturers recommend running studded tires on pavement for the first miles to facilitate &quot;seating&quot;.&#xA;As my commuting route touches little pavement but woods, I see little chance to do this &quot;seating&quot; for 50 km as e.g. Nokian recommends. With a Nokian Extreme, I was not able to see a difference in spike positioning before and after the 50 km seating process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, I am wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What actually should we think is happening during the seating&#xA;process? Fact or fiction?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why do the companies rely on the poor biker to do the spike seating&#xA;    process, why isn't this done by the manufacturer?    &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How important is this for tire performance? With a pair of Nokian&#xA;extreme, I'd guess it took me around 100 kms until I have had these tires&#xA;for 50 km on pavement. Over the last 3 years, I lost (and replaced)&#xA;not more than a handfull of studs on this pair of tires. With one of&#xA;Schwalbe's studded tires, I actually lost around 30 % of the studs&#xA;in the first 4 km ride (and returned the tire), with a pair of&#xA;Continental, it was somewhat better, but after 50 km of seating, I&#xA;still kept loosing spikes at a constant rate. Hence, with the&#xA;Nokian, I've got the impression that these were already working&#xA;before seating and little changed during seating, with all others,&#xA;I've found out that riding on pavement does nothing good to tire&#xA;quality.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3957" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T14:03:53.027" Title="Seating of spikes / studded tires" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28733" CreationDate="2015-01-28T14:03:53.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/studdedtires.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Peter White&lt;/a&gt; has an excellent page on Studded tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote (answering questions 1,2) him: &quot;Q: Why do Nokian tires have a tag stating that you should ride the tires on paved roads for 30 miles before using them on ice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: It's because Nokian is very sloppy in how they install the studs, and doesn't take the time to ensure that every stud is fully seated in the tire tread before shipping it. With some studs partly hanging out of the tire tread, if you ride them hard, the studs can easily fall out. Riding them &quot;easy&quot; is supposed to help seat the studs. Of course this as all just bovine excrement, and those half seated studs can still easily fall out.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On question 3: A few studs missing won't make much of a difference but if a lot of them are missing you lose the advantage of the studs (but you still have the advantage of softer winter rubber). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also relevant: &quot;Q: How can studs fall out of the tire tread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: The main reason studs fall out is riding too aggressively on pavement or on rocky trails. You cannot use studded tires on dry ground the same way you would use summer tires. On ice, you can ride as hard as you dare without damaging the tire or losing studs. But when you reach a bare patch of ground, you must take it easy, lest the studs be ripped from the tread.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T14:03:53.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28681" CreationDate="2015-01-28T14:14:05.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, in fact you should cut it down because it's both a safety hazard (easy to gouge your ankles on an exposed bolt) as well as maintenance issue (it's easy to bend the exposed axle bolt and thus make it very difficult to unscrew the QR nut). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to cut it, the first is on the bike and the second is off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep the wheel on the bike and use a hacksaw to gently cut through the exposed bolt. If you don't want to scratch your QR nut, you can protect it with some electrical tape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After you cut the bolt off unscrew the QR nut, this will clean the threads. Use a file to clean up the end of the bolt as it will have sharp jaggies. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before taking it off the wheel, use a magic marker to mark on the bolt where it meets the face of the nut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew the nut and remove the axle bolt from the wheel and put it in a vice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw the QR nut back on (or use equivalent size real nuts) so that you can use it to chase the threads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the bolt at the right place using a hacksaw or dremel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;File down the jaggies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the previously screwed-on nuts to chase the threads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Success!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T14:14:05.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24735" CreationDate="2015-01-28T15:01:59.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ohio, the way I read it, it appears that lighting falls under the generic vehicle lighting guidelines, so bicycles are required to act like cars in this one aspect (other rules explicitly state &lt;em&gt;motorized&lt;/em&gt; vehicle or even &quot;motorcycle&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, lights are required when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Between sunset and sunrise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visibility less than 1000 feet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Windshield wipers are on (recent addition which I think is really&#xA;dumb as we often have bright sunny days with occasional light&#xA;sprinkles and lights are totally unnecessary, yet you'll be using the&#xA;wipers).  I've not yet seen a bicycle with wipers, so perhaps&#xA;&quot;raining enough that I'd use wipers if I had them&quot; would be a good&#xA;general rule too?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T15:01:59.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2864" CreationDate="2015-01-28T15:07:46.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ROI for dynamo lights is poor in the era of LEDs for the bulk of the population (there are always exceptions of course).  I can buy a nice set of LED front/rear lights for around $50.  Add-on regular batteries for another $5 or so.  OK, I'm in for under $60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I researched dynamos and I was looking at $250+ for just the power unit itself.  Add-in another $50 of lights and I'm at $300.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can buy 50 sets of batteries (we'll keep it simple and assume my savings will match inflation) for the upcharge of a dynamo.  These batteries last years of usage with LEDs.  I'd never even break even with a dynamo in my lifetime, nevermind actually saving money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T15:07:46.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2864" CreationDate="2015-01-28T15:23:17.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mountain biking specifically doesn't seem to have been addressed in above answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weight - who wants half a killo more when climbing a steep hill?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wear and tear - while both quality battery lights and quality dynamo lights are expensive, the latter will need to be replaced more often, due to the dynamo hub wearing out, after the bearings fill with water and sand (after the third mudride).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Availability - dynamo hubs are actually not produced for mountain bikes at all (good luck finding through-axle dynamo hub).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T15:23:17.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28740" CreationDate="2015-01-28T16:03:35.383" Score="2" ViewCount="2433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2008 Giant XTC 01 that came with disc brakes. Those brakes have been difficult to service throughout my time with the bike, now the pads on the back are worn out the fluid lines on the front has ruptured. As such, I'm ready to consider replacing the disc brakes with more easily serviced calipers or cantilevers. The problem is, I'm not sure whether my frame and wheels will support this style of brake. Attached are images of the fork, wheels, and frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g5JHQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front wheel and fork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bBoui.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear wheel and frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17177" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T18:40:59.407" Title="Can I install caliper or cantilever brakes on a frame and set of wheels designed for disc brakes?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28739" CreationDate="2015-01-28T16:12:38.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would need a new fork in the front to add v-brake bosses and the frame does not support this either. I don't think it's worth the effort on this bike. It's sure not going to be easy without replacing both fork and frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think for your situation, what may be a better solution is to switch to Mechanical Disc Brakes. They are much more field serviceable than hydraulics.  I'm going to recommend avid BB7 brakes since they are easy to adjust (you can adjust pad position on either side of the brake) and very easy to find parts for (most shops are going to have pads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T16:12:38.070" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28739" CreationDate="2015-01-28T16:17:56.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frame, fork, and wheels are not compatible.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Most (actually all that I have seen) disc wheels don't support rim braking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is money and weight for the rim surface to accept a rim brake.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also your frame  and fork do not have mounts for rim brakes.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T16:17:56.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28739" CreationDate="2015-01-28T16:30:17.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The particular model of brakes on that bike are known to be a maintenance headache, and generally have a poor reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hayes Stroker Ryder w/160mm rotor brakes, Hayes Stroker Ryder levers - See more at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2008&amp;amp;brand=Giant&amp;amp;model=XtC+1#sthash.hhqp6sSq.dpuf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2008&amp;amp;brand=Giant&amp;amp;model=XtC+1#sthash.hhqp6sSq.dpuf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like the bike otherwise, upgrading the brakes to a newer model might help a lot. Shimano's current XT brakes have a great reputation and are often on sale. I upgraded the brakes on my 2009 Giant and it has made a significant difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching to Avid BB7's would be about the same cost since you'd need to buy new levers and housing. BB7's are fine, but all in all I prefer my XT brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mountain biking, I think you would really regret switching from disk brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T16:30:17.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28692" CreationDate="2015-01-28T18:22:47.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a folding tyre (rather than a wire bead), you can just turn it inside out and inspect the puncture site. If something's still lodged in there, you'll be able to see it (or feel it - carefully, since it's sharp). Then, push it out from the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth brushing down the inside of the tyre while you have it off, in case the tip of the sharp snapped off and is still rattling around in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you can get a toughened variant of superglue which is ideal for glueing up cuts - search for &lt;em&gt;flexy cyano glue&lt;/em&gt;. It doesn't repair the breaker strip to original strength, but closes the surface cut which will otherwise accumulate grit and wear more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T18:22:47.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-28T18:36:28.457" Score="6" ViewCount="23798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this week my first clipless pedals (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano-lifestylegear.com/us/fw/products/pedal/008pd_a530.php?pSccontentsPro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano A530&lt;/a&gt;) as well as some shoes to go with it. After installing one cleat on one shoe, I &quot;locked&quot; the shoe on the pedal, but I do not manage to &quot;unlock&quot;. The problem is that I did not tighten enough the cleat to the shoe (thinking that I'd do it afterwards to adjust the position of the clear), meaning that when I try to unlock, the cleat also moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone has an idea of I could unlock the cleat from the pedal without damaging anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17178" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T19:10:46.360" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T18:49:39.480" Title="Unlock cleat from clipless pedal" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;pedals-clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28739" CreationDate="2015-01-28T18:40:59.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot install canti or v-brakes on that bicycle frame.  Furthermore, if you could, the disc wheels do not have a brake track for canti pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, my opinion is that you should change to a different brand/model of disc brakes.  That way you can continue to use your existing frame and wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Avid BB7 are an excellent choice.  They are a highly regarded mechanical (no hydro fluid) disc brake, and easy for the home mechanic to adjust.  Two small dials on the brake itself fine tune the position of the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano hydro disc brakes are also highly regarded and would be a fine choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1648" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T18:40:59.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28754" CreationDate="2015-01-28T21:33:20.167" Score="1" ViewCount="968" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, the inner seam of my jeans is about done for, and I'm worried that I'll take a nasty spill the next time my pants get caught in there. Given that I don't want to wear gaiters or Lycra, I'm looking to install a chain guard on my bike (2014 Novara Safari).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some of the things to consider when looking for a chainguard? I know that front derailleur compatibility is a major issue. What else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14473" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T02:49:51.277" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T09:01:13.980" Title="What to consider when looking for a chainguard?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28744" CreationDate="2015-01-28T21:40:20.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a (improperly tightened) bolt drop out of a SPD cleat &lt;strong&gt;while riding&lt;/strong&gt; which left me in the same predicament (also ended up eating asphalt), I ended up being able to wedge my shoe against the frame to get the appropriate leverage to kick the shoe/cleat combo out of the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try attaching the pedal to a bike (and foot in shoe) and attempting the same move. You can always unscrew the pedal and take off the shoe to get back to where you are today. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T21:40:20.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28744" CreationDate="2015-01-28T22:53:18.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: I misunderstood your situation hence my original answer. In the case that your shoe is still stuck to the cleat, remove the pedal from the bike first. Keeping the pedal on the bike will just restrict your motion as the crank arm and frame will get the in way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the pedal in a vice grip or between two solid objects which allow you to keep the pedal still. Then simply twist the shoe in the normal unlocking direction until it disengages from the pedal. Having the pedal off the bike will allow you to turn the shoe a whole lot further and allow you to unclip. I don't suspect you would cause any damage this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Removal if it's just the cleat stuck (not on shoe)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly make sure that the spring tension on the pedal is all the way down. This is lowered by turning the little hex / Allen screw to the left as much as it will go. Releasing this tension on the spring will make the job a whole lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use a set of needle-nose pliers to twist the cleat, simulating the twisting of your foot as you would when it's attached to a shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn't work, you can try and use screwdrivers to pry the tensioned 'catch' away from the cleat, hopefully releasing enough pressure to twist it and remove it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of damaged caused, you may scratch the cleat and/or pedal, but I guess no more than you would by clipping in and out and walking around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17159" LastEditorUserId="17159" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T08:03:07.393" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T08:03:07.393" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13289" CreationDate="2015-01-28T23:22:25.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it's possible, you just need to find a telescopic seat post on the market that is longer than the one you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your measurement of your post might be a bit off though, I'm guessing that from your 28.x measurement, and the fact that I don't think 34.2mm is a seatpost size... not one that I'm familiar with anyways. In which case chances are your post is a 34.9mm, not a 34.2mm, and that something like this will do the trick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/34-9mm-EXTRA-EXTENDABLE-530mm-730mm-TELESCOPIC/dp/B009S7I3NM/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;m=A18E5MZOG2TOL4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;34.9mm EXTRA LONG EXTENDABLE SEAT POST 530mm-730mm(21&quot;-28&quot;) TELESCOPIC ALLOY&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNg0M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T23:22:25.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25555" CreationDate="2015-01-29T02:47:16.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't built a bike trailer but used a B.O.B. Yak for a trip from the UK down through Europe.  It was a great trailer and we were able to fit a large 2-man tent in there plus other stuff.  We also had front and back panniers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See here:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobgear.com/bike-trailers/yak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bobgear.com/bike-trailers/yak&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now use a Burley D'Lite with 2 toddlers in it.  Even though you could fit more stuff in it than the B.O.B. I would be wary of getting the centre of gravity too high.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.burley.com/page_308/dlite-p308&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.burley.com/page_308/dlite-p308&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to bear in mind is that these companies have researched the handling, aerodynamics, load bearing, etc which is something that you'd need to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For touring I'd say the Yak is the way to go as it is designed and built specifically for this use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Also, bought trailers come complete with the things you need to attach it to your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17180" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T02:47:16.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23736" CreationDate="2015-01-29T03:11:07.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer question 3: Any tips for reducing bulk in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some tips on reducing clothing bulk.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When doing a long tour I swapped out cotton t-shirts for dri-fit/climacool-type ones.  They pack smaller, dry quicker when laundered and can be used on and off the bike.  Three t-shirts like this should be enough for both riding and non-riding activities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had a pair of zip off cycling trousers.  They can be used as long trousers or shorts.  These plus one or two pairs of padded, mountain-bike type shorts should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For shoes I had a pair of Shimano touring SPDs. They were comfortable enough to walk in and the cleats were not as pronounced as road shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the clothing I carried was cycling stuff that was passable in non-cycling situations.  I didn't have any non-cycling clothes with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By carrying fewer items that dried quickly I was able to hand wash them at the end of the day's ride and have them dry quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17180" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T03:11:07.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28744" CreationDate="2015-01-29T07:52:57.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the shoe is still attached to the cleat....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you not just keep turning the shoe to a wider and wider angle until it forces the cleat to disengage from the pedal?  You'll scratch the sole of the shoe, and possibly slightly widen the screw holes in the shoe, but it shouldn't break anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's quite hard to get a shoe &amp;amp; cleat out of SPD pedals using your hands - even when the cleat is screwed on correctly.  It's much easier to do when you are wearing the shoe.  I'd recommend trying this whilst wearing the shoe, sitting on the bike, but leaning against a wall or fence (or having someone hold you upright).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T07:52:57.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2864" CreationDate="2015-01-29T08:18:30.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main point of failure, and in my opinion the largest disadvantage of dynamo vs battery lights, shared by both hub dynamos and side wheel dynamos is: &lt;strong&gt;wiring.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wiring on a bicycle is often very fragile, and in my experience it is always the first thing to break on any bike. This is especially true if you park in a bicycle parking area where your bike is subject to other bikes falling over or otherwise being mishandled by other people. Add corrosion of the connectors in wintertime (salty spray from the wheels) to this mix, and you understand why dynamo lights are not reliable. The frequent movement due to steering of the wire as it crosses from the front fork to the frame can also be a frustrating point of (intermittent) failure, that can be especially hard to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear wiring is especially vulnerable due to the length of the wire to the rear light (in case of a front dynamo, which is most common here) and the messy wiring that goes with connecting the light across the frame and rear mudguard. Some bikes use the frame as a conduction path (grounded frame) which at least eliminates one wire. This however requires conducting mudguards for rear lights and has the disadvantage that corrosion of the connecting points is common and leads to a gradual decrease in light output. The connection between a rear light and the metal mudguard is a notorious example of this. This also explains why bikes with a front side wheel dynamo and dynamo powered front light, combined with a battery powered LED rear light were very popular (in Europe at least) until a few years ago. This setup at least removes some of the major concerns (no more wire breaking due to steering, fewer connections and fewer and shorter wires)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been a few improvements in making more reliable wiring, such as integrating conducting strips into the mudguards and using semi-automotive type connectors that should make the wiring more reliable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to use dynamo powered lights on my bike, as I tend to forget my LED lights when I need them or forget to charge them, but the poor reliability of the dynamo/wiring combination prevents this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T08:18:30.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28746" CreationDate="2015-01-29T08:38:58.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought 2 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dutchbikebits.com/mudguards-chainguards-fenders-coatprotectors/de-woerd-wave-chaincase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these half chaincases&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of them is fitted to my wife's commuting mtb and does the job of keeping trouser legs and shoe laces out of the chain rings (with a guard disc fitted to the cranks as standard). I just couldn't get it to fit my hybrid without rubbing on the chain (and it was fiddly on the mtb). Both have 28-38-48 chain rings and i don't think it would fit anything bigger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the reason I couldn't get it on mine was the &lt;em&gt;length&lt;/em&gt; of the chain run (it's an XL frame) possibly combined with the 11--32 tooth cassette. The shape of the crank arms might have something to do with it as well -- clearances are tight. You should consider ease of fitting/opening/removal for working on the chain, compared with how often you need access to the top of the chain run. You may find that it's &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; total effort than a clip or tucking your trouser leg into your sock every ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are similar chain guards out there. She's got an e-bike with one on. It looks like it would fit 2 chain rings but not 3 and has not branding on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T09:01:13.980" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T09:01:13.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-29T11:08:45.793" Score="3" ViewCount="12163" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bicycle currently has poor chainring/rear sprocket alignment (as in the chain at the front is more than a chain's width from the chain at the rear). I'm wondering what the procedure is to correct this alignment, because currently riding the bike damages the chain. (I have already moved the wheel as far across as i can using washers) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17185" LastActivityDate="2021-03-15T13:47:42.577" Title="How to align a chain on a single speed" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28762" CreationDate="2015-01-29T11:45:26.973" Score="12" ViewCount="1553" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often motorist do something that makes me wish they had stayed at home, but they also frequently do nice things too. Like slowing down to let me in to the lane, or making sure that they overtake with plenty of room etc...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an unambiguous gesture that means &quot;thank you&quot;? I don't want to confuse people about my intentions (by using a gesture that could be interpreted as something else) but it would be nice to show appreciation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17187" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T10:23:40.087" Title="How to thank motorists?" Tags="&lt;signals&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28756" CreationDate="2015-01-29T12:06:07.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A polite nod, wave or smile usually suffices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't need to be much, where I live in the UK raising one or two fingers from the steering wheel is plenty when driving. Not sure about &lt;em&gt;down south&lt;/em&gt;, I've heard it's a fairly local thing, but I don't imagine it being too different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T12:06:07.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-29T12:33:33.473" Score="4" ViewCount="2300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding my aluminium bike and I met some people who had been trapped in a locked park, so I helped them escape by holding the bike against the fence and letting them stand on the top tube to climb out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had had a carbon fibre bike instead how much risk would there have been of serious damage to the bike? I understand that carbon components are engineered to be strong in certain directions and relatively weak in others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12583" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T01:23:11.970" Title="Would a person standing on the top tube damage a carbon fibre road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="17" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28755" CreationDate="2015-01-29T12:52:04.520" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To adjust chainline, you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At the back&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use spacers between the hub and cog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At the front&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a longer/shorter bb spindle (as Kibbee says)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use spacers on the bb cups (as Mark W says)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use chainring washers (and likely different bolts) to adjust the position of the chainring on the crank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to think of any more options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I could think of is that if you do end up with an imperfect chainline, despite your every effort, then a 3/32&quot; chain will be more forgiving than a 1/8&quot; chain. 3/32&quot; chains are designed to be able to traverse cassettes so have a little more flexibility in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T14:26:05.847" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T14:26:05.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28756" CreationDate="2015-01-29T17:43:34.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Motorists (I'm both a cyclist and motorist) use to salute with each other making a &quot;V&quot; sign with the index and middle fingers of the hand with the palm forward. At least it's that way in southern Europe, don't know in other parts of the world. They would understand that with as a symbol of empathy to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastEditorUserId="871" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T17:53:53.807" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T17:53:53.807" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28756" CreationDate="2015-01-29T17:50:59.653" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a sort of wave, raising my hand but with no movement in it (so not a 'Hey buddy' or 'I need help' side to side movement).... it works on my bicycle, on my motorcycle, and while driving a vehicle. It's got somewhat of a dual purpose: acknowledgement that I did something wrong, and/or 'thanks for letting me in' gratitude gesture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same gesture I seem to get from many other people. There's no side/side or waving motion (would be more like &quot;Hi!&quot;), just a hand up, fingers together, &quot;Thanks/Sorry&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T17:50:59.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28758" CreationDate="2015-01-29T18:13:29.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the risk of getting beat up on carbon will give it a try. &#xA;CF seems to be a sensitive subject.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't agree with your assertion CF are engineered to be strong in certain directions and relatively weak in others.  They are designed to have different flex in certain directions - not weak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had 4 bikes I need to use as step stools I would go with this order (and I really have all but aluminum):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) steel&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) titanium&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3) carbon fiber (CF)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4) aluminum   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a bit of discussion and comments that bearing weight on the top tube is not a stress a bicycle is designed for (and weak).  That is a stress a bike must handle.  If I take a tube and hold it at both ends and try and bend it that is the same type of stress as if I took the tube and put either ends on rocks and pushed on the middle.  The primary force a top tube takes is bending from the ends.  If you watch the video you can see top tube bend and when it fails the two pieces are bending displacement.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/santa-cruz-bicycles-test-lab.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Santa Cruz Bicycles - Test Lab&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And you can see the CF held up pretty nicely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CF takes criticism as it fails brittlely which is true but it takes a lot to get it to fail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not want to ride any bike that would fail with my weight on the top tube as that is a scenario (crash or drop off) I expect and need it to not fail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said there is not one CF.  A lot of variance in the construction / layout. &#xA;If you are going to ride a CF then buy a good one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mean to advertise a brand but Niner has 5 year &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ninerbikes.com/ninercarbon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;warranty&lt;/a&gt; including racing. &#xA;I have crashed my Niner Air 9 Carbon hard and not even thought twice about the bike.&#xA;I use it for CX training at a local park and stand on the top tube to stash my jacket in a tree. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is stuff CF is not good at. &#xA;Don't put a rack on a CF.&#xA;Don't take a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QNRpSkTGoA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hammer&lt;/a&gt; or bat or hard object to CF. &#xA;Don't take a drill to CF. &#xA;Don't over or under torque bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just amazed at the slow acceptance of CF frames. &#xA;When CF forks first came out there was a lot a questioning. &#xA;But now CF is the dominant rigid fork. &#xA;A fork takes a lot of stress from a lot of directions. &#xA;People think CF is too light to be strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get engineers are misunderstood (and certainly under appreciated) but a simple one foot drop landing on the front wheel is going to put more stress on a top tube than your weight. The frame did not even flex in the picture.  I would not ride a frame I could not jump on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fUFid.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T01:23:11.970" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T01:23:11.970" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28758" CreationDate="2015-01-29T19:09:28.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could theoretically damage any frame in that manner.  Tubes are meant to support a load from either end, not in the middle.  No bike is designed to support a great deal of weight on the top tube.  Theoretically carbon, steel and titanium could all flex/bend and resume their normal shape, where aluminum couldn't, but nonetheless it still isn't a good idea with any of them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is so much variation in material you could easily make a thick walled carbon frame that would stand up to such abuse or a paper thin steel frame that would bend and fail instantly.  You are correct that carbon can be designed to be stronger in some directions that others, but it's still being shaped into a tube (or some variation of) that design and has it's own inherent strengths and weaknesses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-01-31T01:41:40.923" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T01:41:40.923" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28756" CreationDate="2015-01-29T20:20:48.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would generally come down to you locality as some cultures would consider certain gestures rude. I guess there isn't a universal sign for thank you, but in most cultures I think a wave of the hand (more of a raise the hand and show the palm slightly) with a courteous smile or nod would do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to vary between a wave of the hand or a thumbs up followed by a wave of the hand. A smile always tends to convey gratitude, but that depends on whether you can be seen clearly or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17159" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T20:20:48.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28705" CreationDate="2015-01-29T21:29:44.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lights that are road-legal in Germany have this cut off. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/review/47688-trelock-ls-950-ecopower-control-front-light&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trelock LS 950&lt;/a&gt; is a good example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12583" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T21:29:44.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28818" CreationDate="2015-01-29T22:02:43.387" Score="0" ViewCount="2061" Body="&lt;p&gt;My old headset was loosy and feeling very instable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I removed it, I got this: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z0aFr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;my new fsa headsed&quot;&gt;&#xA;and I'd want to install it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering what is the right way to install the two pieces on the right. I know the crown ring (second from right) has to be installed on the fork (I removed the old one). But I don't know what to do with the plastic ring. Should I put it &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the crown ring? Should I put it &lt;em&gt;afterwards&lt;/em&gt;? What is its purpose? &#xA;(actually I am having and hard time realizing how everything works since the ball bearings are sealed and they don't have to slide on the crown ring itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this PVC tube to install the ring, for reference:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ltYmo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;And I think to hammer it down with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14620" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T16:11:24.740" Title="Installing new threadless headset: how to set the crown ring and its rubber ring?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28769" CreationDate="2015-01-29T22:42:40.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rubber ring would most likely be a protective seal of some kind, although for which part I am not so sure. I changed my headset earlier last year and don't remember such a part, although my memory isn't great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you not determine the possible location based on the rubber ring's size? Most forks are tapered and are larger at the bottom, so the size might make it self-explanatory. My educated guess is that it will be an additional seal which sits between the cartridge bearing/compression ring (the brass coloured ring on the far right) and the dust cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I terms of installation, the second to right part (the crown race) should be fitted first onto your fork first. Ensure that the surface is clean and no corrosion or other dirt is on your fork from the old race as it won't sit properly. It's unlikely that this rubber ring would go underneath the crown race or above as it would prevent the bearings fitting correctly (the space is usually extremely tight to start with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the following image doesn't show the rubber ring, it gives a good indication to the installation order of the rest of the parts. I suggest that the rubber ring goes between the 'dust cover' and 'compression ring' on that photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bicycle_headset_(threadless)_exploded_view-en.png#mediaviewer/File:Bicycle_headset_(threadless)_exploded_view-en.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Exploded bicycle headset&quot;&gt;An exploded photograph of a bicycle headset, showing the parts in installation order&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17159" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T22:42:40.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28758" CreationDate="2015-01-29T23:31:37.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not be afraid to let anybody stand on my carbon fiber, aluminum, or steel bike. If standing on the top tube breaks the bike, it would be liable to break after any minor mishap, and you're safer getting it repaired or replaced. Bikes are sturdy -- even CF road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2102" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T23:31:37.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28775" CreationDate="2015-01-30T09:17:27.000" Score="2" ViewCount="4020" Body="&lt;p&gt;To install a new chain I need a chain tool to shorten it to the proper length.  Why not just use that same tool to replace the pin and not deal with a magic link?  Seems to me the pin would be stronger than a breakable link.  Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14133" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-01-30T16:32:36.173" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T13:30:21.370" Title="Do I really need a magic link or can I just replace the pin on my chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28773" CreationDate="2015-01-30T09:29:50.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do that (*) - you just need to make sure you don't push the pin out all the way before reinstalling it (else it becomes quite hard to put the pin back in). However, a quick link is easier to install and remove (**) the chain (also, carrying a few of them around make for easy emergency repairs), since you only have to use the chain tool to shorten the chain and not risk damage to the plates when re-attaching or not aligning the pin correctly when re-attaching (this is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-installation-derailleur-bikes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;most common cause&lt;/a&gt; of failure for a chain, especially on higher speed chains). Thus, re-installing the pin is more likely to weaken the chain vs a quick link (which doesn't have this problem).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, the quick link isn't usually the place of failure, so theres not really a reason not to use it unless your chain doesn't come with one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) Well, check the documentation that comes with the chain. Normally, if there is a quick link, the manufacturer will tell you to use it, which the end of the paragraph will tell you why. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(**) On 10/11 speed systems, they are normally one time use links. On lower speeds, you can open and close the chain a bunch of times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(***) As the comments point out, Shimano chains ship with a special pin to use (as do some Campy chains). You have to use this pin in this case (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-installation-derailleur-bikes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; for details/intricacies). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-01-31T13:30:21.370" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T13:30:21.370" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28756" CreationDate="2015-01-30T10:23:40.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing we do in France is to take off one of your legs from the pedal and put it on the side (usually your leg on the side of the motorist you want to thank). Which looks a little like this : &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EEJsy.gif&quot; alt=&quot;thank you&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you take the time to do it and stop a little your effort by taking off your feet from the pedal is usually well considered by motorists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17199" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T10:23:40.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12332" CreationDate="2015-01-30T10:57:25.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amazon sell these and few on-line bike shops have them. I guess they wasn't available when you posted the original question. You can find them from either Sram or Jagwire brands and they look to be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17200" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T10:57:25.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18770" CreationDate="2015-01-30T16:58:42.963" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rear bicycle axles are often over stressed. Every old ten speed that I took apart had a bent axle because when climbing or accelerating it is possible to create a bending moment that will exceed the yield strength of the steel. If the axle was broken in the center,between the bearings, it is more likely that the fault was not the loading but bad metallurgy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recycled steel often contains unwanted metals such as copper that makes the steel brittle. Because of the limited service and the location of the break, I would guess that the axle was made in China of old DeSotos.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17201" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T16:58:42.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28758" CreationDate="2015-01-30T17:20:59.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle frames are lightweight structures that have great strength when supporting the loads that the road imparts. Normally the top tube would experience compression or tension due to the weight of the rider. It also needs torsional stiffness to keep the bike stable. It is not designed to take the bending moment of a persons weight in the center. Aluminum bikes tend to have large diameter tubes for torsional stiffness and this gives them bending stiffness as well. Localized buckling of a thin wall is also likely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon fiber frames are not light because the material has magic properties. Carbon fiber has great axial strength it is true but much of the lightness of the frame is due to the finite element models that help designers put material exactly where it will do the most good. Before I would let anyone use my $3000 frame for a stepladder, I would think seriously about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17201" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T17:20:59.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28672" CreationDate="2015-01-30T17:33:18.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back brakes have long cables and when you apply the brake, the load causes a significant stretch in the cable. When you add the load due to corrosion, it is a wonder you have any stop at all. A good cable is critical, inspect and replace if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17201" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T17:33:18.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28670" CreationDate="2015-01-30T17:44:27.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't taken apart a coaster hub since I discovered girls but I remember there was a number of friction plates like a wet plate clutch that did the braking. These are actuated by forcing them together when you press the pedal in reverse. I don't recall details but I wonder if there might be a left handed thread in the assembly that was tightened in getting it apart. The other possibility is that the axle is stripped as you suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17201" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T17:44:27.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-31T00:33:48.480" Score="0" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should cyclists ride (not walk) their bike through a pedestrian walkway at an intersection?  This may vary by municipality, so I am specifically interested in Houston, although I would be curious about other cities as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had several close calls as a driver with bikes coming out of nowhere rapidly on the sidewalk and crossing while I was making a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3613" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T18:05:46.643" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T18:05:46.643" Title="Bicycles riding in pedestrian crosswalks -- Houston" Tags="&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28786" CreationDate="2015-01-31T09:36:11.307" Score="2" ViewCount="8171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy cycling off-road. During rainy season, the cycling trails can get muddy. Most of the bikes from rental shops do not come with a rear mudguard. I tried to slow down and avoid puddles of water, but it seems inevitable that blotches of mud would stain the back of my shirt at the end of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there better methods of avoiding mud from splashing onto my back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7028" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T13:34:58.640" Title="How can I avoid mud from splashing onto my back without a rear wheel fender?" Tags="&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28785" CreationDate="2015-01-31T13:34:58.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a seatpost-mounted rear mudguard, like the SKS X-tra Dry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hU1QP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the front, you can also use a downtube mudguard like the SKS X-board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PjfWA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are convenient for bikes which don't have proper fender mounts/fenders would interfere with clearance/fenders need to be easily removed or not [Most mountain bikes fit this thing]. They don't protect the drivetrain from crud thrown up from the wheels so they aren't great for improving drivetrain life on a road bike, but this is not a concern for your riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to wear clothes you don't mind getting dirty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T13:34:58.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-31T21:10:26.107" Score="1" ViewCount="6060" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever since I put my rear wheel on after taking it off, I have had this constant clicking noise from the cog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't always like this. I rode for a few months with no clicking noise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain line appears to be straight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clicking sound comes from the top of the cog when pedaling forward and the bottom of the cog when pedaling backward.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain appears to &quot;bounce&quot; quite a bit when leaving the top part of the cog when pedaling forward and when leaving the bottom part when pedaling backward.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17210" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T06:13:51.970" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T20:36:42.487" Title="Clicking noise coming from cog on fixed gear" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-31T21:36:12.950" Score="4" ViewCount="22443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never been more than a casual rider, maybe 5 miles at a time. I signed up for a 500 mile multi-day bike event that i need to train for and was thinking about getting real bike shoes due to more energy transfer to the pedals. I just have regular simple platform pedals now. so would it even make sense to get special shoes with hard soles if I don't have regular pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17211" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T19:08:56.760" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T20:18:52.917" Title="What type of shoes should I get with regular pedals" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;pedals-flat&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28788" CreationDate="2015-01-31T21:47:07.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like downhill larger platform pedals with what is commonly referred to as street shoes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don' like advertising a brand but an example is the best answer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fiveten.com/products/bike/all-mountain-flats&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;All Mountain Flats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have people advising clipless (spd) and I don't agree.  Ironically clipless means the ski boot type clip in.  But I don't agree with spd.  I would do a 500 mile multi day ride on some big platform downhill pedals with the little spike and some and some nice street shoes.  There is enough traction to hold your foot in position.  You can move your foot around a little bit to change how you hit muscles.  I will ride an uphill is a little different foot position.  When you get off you can walk around and loosen up you legs.  You don't have to carry another pair of shoes or sandals.  Now a one day 100 mile ride - then I would ride spd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T18:02:00.317" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T18:02:00.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28788" CreationDate="2015-01-31T23:04:09.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even with platform pedals, a stiffer shoe will help. If you're riding in squishy running shoes, switching to a shoe that is stiffer with less cushion will improve your riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those all mountain flats would be fine, or even skate shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, unless multi-day refers to a month or more, I would really encourage you to look into getting clipless pedals and bike specific shoes. 500 miles is a long ways on a bike, everything you can do to improve efficiency and comfort will help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, you don't need to invest in new pedals right away and any reasonably stiff shoe will help. ( Some people like riding in dress shoes. ) Once you've gotten some miles under your belt, you can look at the issue of pedals again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T23:04:09.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28788" CreationDate="2015-02-01T06:47:06.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly recommend that you combine the cycling shoes idea with &quot;clipless&quot; pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key advantage of such shoes is that they give good support for cycling and you can comfortably walk in them. And the advantage of the clipless pedals is that because the shoes attach to them, you can drive the pedal all the way around the stroke. Your pedal will be about 3 times more efficient!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are different kinds of clipless pedals; look for pedals that are SPD on one side and flat on the other, so you have the choice while you're learning. SPD were originally made by Shimano, but now there are many clones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=spd+cycling+shoes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google spd cycling shoes&lt;/a&gt; you will find a heap of brands, styles, and price levels. Often the shoes are called MTB (Mountain Bike) shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My daughter &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/25575/8273&quot;&gt;started this way&lt;/a&gt; (single sided SPD pedals) some years ago. And I used my MTB shoes for a whole 5 week holiday once, so that I didn't have to take a second pair of shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/28524/8273&quot;&gt;Another answer&lt;/a&gt; I wrote may also help you. The question was &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/28522/8273&quot;&gt;How long does it take to be ready for a multi day ride as a newbie?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T12:01:17.253" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28784" CreationDate="2015-02-01T12:26:01.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the answer here would be to use some common sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure anyone would condone cyclists riding along the pavement/sidewalk - intersection or not. This is a risk to pedestrians, and generally gives cyclists a bad reputation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, as a motorist, what are you going to do? Drive into them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that in most any jurisdiction, that would put you in the wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you did so accidentally, when you had right of way, I'm pretty sure you'd find yourself in a position where you'd have to prove your innocence, rather than someone having to prove your guilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Driving is a social activity in that, like it or not, we have to share the roads with other people. Try not to let the fact that some of those people (whether on 2- or 4-wheels) are idiots, ruin &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T12:26:01.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28796" CreationDate="2015-02-01T12:36:33.043" Score="0" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this cool cheap single-speed bike on amazon &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.de/Fixie-Singlespeed-Viking-Farben-Auswahl/dp/B00BCKQ8AS/ref=lp_235171011_1_1?s=sports&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1422793944&amp;amp;sr=1-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.de/Fixie-Singlespeed-Viking-Farben-Auswahl/dp/B00BCKQ8AS/ref=lp_235171011_1_1?s=sports&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1422793944&amp;amp;sr=1-1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However my problem with it is that it is single speed &amp;amp; I would like to have 27 speeds. Is it possible to do that manually? i.e. to buy speeds and add it to the bike? I would why they didn't do it themselves!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T12:59:53.943" Title="Is it possible to add speeds to single-speed bike?" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28784" CreationDate="2015-02-01T12:51:13.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I voted to close as I don't think this site should get into legal advice but you have an answer that ignores the legal aspect and there is a legal aspect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The law in Houston is if you are in a business district you must ride on the road. &#xA;In a residential you must ride road or sidewalk - cannot go back and forth. &#xA;The definition of business district is a little vague - business for 300 ft (since Houston has no zoning laws that is vague).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine was struck riding a bicycle in crosswalk with a walk sign and the vehicle was not ticketed as the bicycle was in a place it was not supposed to be.  If he was walking his bicycle he would have been a pedestrian and the vehicle would have been at fault.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not an attorney and don't take this as legal advice but if the crosswalk is legally designated for pedestrians then if you are riding in the crosswalk you don't have the legal protection of a pedestrian (unless a bicycle rider is legally a pedestrian).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T13:53:29.913" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T13:53:29.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28794" CreationDate="2015-02-01T12:59:53.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a 27 speed bike then buy one.  It is not cheaper to add speeds to a single speed or fixie bike.  Lots of stuff is not compatible including axle spacing and real wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T12:59:53.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28800" CreationDate="2015-02-01T16:58:08.387" Score="1" ViewCount="7743" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my handlebars were stolen from my Salsa Casseroll the other night, levers and all. (Argh.) The bike has a Tiagra 9 speed triple drivetrain, and Shimano discontinued Tiagra 9 speed hardware, leaving me with only Sora shifter to buy new. On ebay old tiagra 9 speed triple levers that aren't beaten up are hard to come by, but I'm seeing some 105 9-speed triple shifters that look reasonable. Are those compatible with my Tiagra parts? Will I notice any performance difference? Or should I just suck it up and get the Sora levers? (Guy at my LBS looked down his nose at their quality a bit, which has me leery.) &#xA;Thanks for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17222" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T16:38:47.853" Title="Replacing Tiagra 9-speed shifter with 9-speed 105 or Sora shifters" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28799" CreationDate="2015-02-01T17:12:31.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use either the Sora or 105 shifters (all the cable pulls will match). Sora 9 speed has the proper ergonomics (instead of the silly button that it used to use on 8 speed), so its a good shifter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for if you will notice any performance difference, both should shift fine (if the 105's are indeed in good condition) [if you're racing, maybe you'll notice a difference], but the ergonomics may be very slightly different between the tiagra-105-sora levers (but you'll get used to it) [it wouldn't surprise me if the &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/review/100555-shimano-sora-3500-groupset&quot;&gt;current Sora levers are a slight modification of the 9 speed Tiagra levers due to trickle-down]&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably suck it up and buy the Sora levers personally - brifters are too finicky/fragile in crashes for me to be comfortable buying used ones off eBay unless the price is very good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is the bike shop guy wants you to go 10 speed which will involve replacing a whole bunch of stuff, hence the upturned nose. Or general cyclist snobbery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T17:12:31.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28788" CreationDate="2015-02-01T18:56:57.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no problem riding with ordinary shoes and platform pedals. It is a myth that clipless pedals make you more effective, so if you don't race you are probably just as well off with using the equipment you already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using clipless shoes for flat pedals would be the worst solution since road clipless shoes usually have hard and stiff soles that does not get a good grip on the pins on flat pedals. My personal opinion is that skate shoes, tennis sneakers, and other flat soled rubber shoes are good alternatives for flat pedals. You also have flat pedal specific shoes, such as Five Ten, with very sticky rubber compounds that are designed to increase grip on flat pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested in seeing more good arguments for using flat pedals (i.e. why you can safely ride with the equipment you already have) you can check out the links below:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikejames.com/strength/the-flat-pedal-revolution-manifesto-how-to-improve-your-riding-with-flat-pedals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikejames.com/strength/the-flat-pedal-revolution-manifesto-how-to-improve-your-riding-with-flat-pedals/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikejames.com/strength/two-more-ways-that-clipless-pedals-can-unknowingly-screw-up-your-pedal-stroke/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikejames.com/strength/two-more-ways-that-clipless-pedals-can-unknowingly-screw-up-your-pedal-stroke/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T18:56:57.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-01T22:51:51.300" Score="8" ViewCount="1390" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/msmpi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My Bike from 1970&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my bike from the 1970's and now 49 years later I would love to start looking for another one. I do not know the brand. Can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17224" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T03:17:57.717" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T00:39:45.077" Title="Can you tell me what the name of this bike is?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28802" CreationDate="2015-02-02T00:23:56.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks quite similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schwinn_Bicycle_Company#The_Sting-Ray&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schwinn Stingray&lt;/a&gt;. If you Google around they seem to have made quite a few models, and were quite popular, and hence, many knockoffs were made in order to mooch off their popularity. Your's looks similar to the one in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://schwinncruisers.com/catalogs/1977.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1977 catalog&lt;/a&gt;, except your's has the gear shifter, and they do list 3 and 5 speed models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6JaEi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/voezg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T00:42:47.657" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T00:42:47.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28852" CreationDate="2015-02-02T01:11:00.607" Score="3" ViewCount="8590" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than a 12g saving in weight and the Dura Ace label, are there any further potential reasons to prefer Shimano PD-9000 pedals over PD-6800?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; This question is specifically about pedals rather than general Dura Ace vs Ultegra comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11228" LastEditorUserId="11228" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T17:24:01.210" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T15:16:02.197" Title="Shimano PD-6800 vs PD-9000 pedals" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28805" CreationDate="2015-02-02T01:45:28.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/shimano-ultegra-pd-6800-spd-sl-pedals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;, the differences can be summed up in the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As for the carbon pedal body, the 6800 design differs from 9000 through its use of short carbon fibers instead of Dura-Ace's long carbon fibers. Essentially, this is where the extra weight comes from. Additionally, the carbon has been molded with a machined aluminum sleeve that houses the two bearings in each pedal. The whole assembly spins on a stainless steel spindle, and the new pedals retain the replaceable stainless steel wear plate that sits atop the pedal body. Additionally, it supports the SPD-SL cleat for maximum lateral stability, while allowing a hard surface for your cleat to float against -- +/- three degrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T01:45:28.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-02T04:54:29.580" Score="12" ViewCount="4082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just cut open an old inner tube I had laying around and noticed there is a white powder in there. What is it? Why is it there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17229" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T15:28:42.370" Title="What powder is used inside an inner tube?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10236" CreationDate="2015-02-02T06:07:20.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real answer here is that reversing the stem changes the handling very little. 90% of the handling comes from the fork length and curve (trail) and the head tube angle. These things control the inherent stability of a bicycle. The stem length is more a matter of comfort, although there is an important matter of knee clearance, especially if you ever intend to stand on the pedals while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17231" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T06:07:20.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28807" CreationDate="2015-02-02T07:04:52.970" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/talcum.html&quot;&gt;talc&lt;/a&gt;, and it is used in the tube making process to prevent the inner tube rubber from sticking to itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T07:04:52.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28848" CreationDate="2015-02-02T10:08:36.403" Score="9" ViewCount="11143" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/trance.27.5.2/18763/76210/&quot;&gt;2015 Giant Trance&lt;/a&gt; that is about 3 weeks old. Used pretty much every weekend. It's kept in a shed (fully covered,  no insulation just a regular shed), after every ride I give it a nice clean with a hose lightly over top, use an air compressor then use a micro fiber cloth to dry down and tidy up. My bolts, chain and discs for my brakes seem to have a lot of rust on them for 3 weeks old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2 questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this rust bad for my bike and if so, how do I remove it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is cleaning it with a hose, using the air compressor then the cloth bad for the bike and maybe making it rust?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this is hard to understand, feel free to ask questions to know more.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Where I am from there is a lot of sulphur in the air (it's bad enough people visiting smell it very easily) so maybe that could be apart of it? It's also summer (southern hemisphere) and our trails are mainly in the trees, with the occasional tracks where trees have been cut down. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17234" LastEditorUserId="17234" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T11:23:19.133" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T14:46:39.193" Title="Is my bike getting ruined?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28811" CreationDate="2015-02-02T11:12:53.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't pressure hose your bike at all and steer clear of the air compressor. You don't want to force water, air or grit into seals and bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always lightly hose off excess dirt or brush it off, then sponge down with a soapy hot water, then rinse, leave or drip -dry or use a cloth to wipe off excess liquid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the chain, rings, cassette, rims with a rag and a pipe cleaner brush or your toothbrush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I started going bike tourin I used to use products like WD40 and muc-off but since I don't use them anymore, just more elbow grease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leave the bike to dry and then lube the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T18:44:46.200" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T18:44:46.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28811" CreationDate="2015-02-02T12:02:17.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Muc-Off or any other bike specific cleaning product is a good bet.&#xA;Followed by a brush and hose down. It's not necessary to go all out with a pressure hose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use a chain degreaser spray and use this sparingly on the cassette with a brush. It bring the chain up like new.&#xA;However, immediately after cleaning the drive-train - I re-oil the chain and wipe the chain down of any excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chrome steel nuts and bolts will pit and corrode. Try applying a light film of grease over them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T12:02:17.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28811" CreationDate="2015-02-02T12:53:13.267" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chain will rust always after washing (or even light rain or a puddle of water), if not re-lubed. I think this is detrimental to the chain, as it removes material from the rollers and thus contributes to chain stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bolts for stem, handlebars etc. seem to always like to rust after rain or washing. I don't think it is a big deal, but it ruins the look of the bike. How I solve this is put a small amount of grease at the bottom of the bolt head (and then wipe any excess). The grease seals the hollow head and stops rust. Using a hex on the bolt removes most of the grease, so re-lubing after repairs is nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the disc brake rotors - this surprises me. Apart from two general advices, I can't see how can I help with this. Firstly, after washing a bike, lift it up several times and force it into the ground - this should should shake a lot of water off. Secondly, after that, you can make a couple of hard stops - the disk pads will dry the disks in no time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="6726" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T14:48:46.987" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T14:48:46.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28721" CreationDate="2015-02-02T13:13:54.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After posting a (negative) comment on Facebook I finally got a contact email address: contact@bosch-ebike.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were very quick and confirmed the problems. They will release a fix soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Es tut uns leid, aber wir habenmit den Aktivitäten ein wenig Probleme. Wir arbeiten mit Hochdruck daran, diese zu beheben.Wir bitten Sie deshalb hier, umein wenig Geduld.&#xA;  Sorry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a solution yet, but at least I will stop trying to fix the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17169" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T13:13:54.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-02T14:10:53.347" Score="2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some panniers to fix. I've bought some impact adhesive and I am working out which material to buy for the patches - will PVC ok ? or polyurethane or something else?&#xA;Has to be waterproof and strong and preferable available in yellow!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T21:42:08.150" Title="Material to make patches to fix Crosso / Ortlieb style waterproof panniers?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28769" CreationDate="2015-02-02T15:51:41.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found it. I am very disappointed this was not reached through the headset official page. I found it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=2636.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in a forum&lt;/a&gt; thanks to Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FDdS9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the rubber ring goes just above the crown race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14620" LastEditorUserId="14620" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T16:11:24.740" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T16:11:24.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28816" CreationDate="2015-02-02T16:04:22.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try an air bed repair kit? &#xA;The patches are tough, the bond is flexible and air tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T16:04:22.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28811" CreationDate="2015-02-02T16:50:01.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be overwashing it. Rust needs water to oxidize steel and you're providing it in copious amounts. That combined with either the sulphur in the air or salt (if you're near an ocean) is a deadly mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to give your exposed bolts a nice coating of something that will prevent rust. WD-40 is fine for that purpose but washes off easily. Some people use Silicone Spray (available at your car parts store). I'm a fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boeshield.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boeshield T-9&lt;/a&gt; -- it's purportedly based on a formula that Boeing designed to keep airline parts from oxidizing. The nice thing about Boeshield is that you can also use it as a conformal coating for electronics, meaning that at least as it applies to bikes, drips of it getting into your lights and speedos will not damage them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that any of these will be VERY bad for you to put on braking surfaces. That is, your braking surfaces will look nice and shiny -- but will be very slippery and won't brake anymore. Stopping disk rotors from rusting is hard -- the best way is to keep them dry and ride them a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't worry about a bit of mud on your bike. It's supposed to be dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T16:50:01.230" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28811" CreationDate="2015-02-02T17:37:44.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are getting that much rust then you are putting that bike up wet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It does not take much water - it is only dry if it is bone dry.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are hosing that bike down after every ride you are putting too much water on that bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unprotected rust will consume iron and steel.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wiki Rust&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you go with two levels of cleaning  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touch up - keep water off parts that rust&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are spray on cleaners for spot cleaning the frame.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or just use small sponge for spot cleaning the frame.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then rinse with a very low water pressure and keep water off all exposed (non painted) metal.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full Clean&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Only performed on a sunny day&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Start with spray on degreaser let it sit the 5-10 minutes and hose it off&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Came back with detergent and clean the entire bike&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rinse again&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Use a tooth brush and degreaser to detail degrease&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rinse again&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Detergent clean the entire bike again&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rinse again&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Dry the bike&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Check the bike over mechanically&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Me this is when I do maintenance as I have a clean bike with minimal grease&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are going to replace chain ring or cassette do it now&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are going to replace chain ring or cassette then do a full cleaning&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Apply chain cleaner&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ride the bike to help spin off water&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Let it bake in sun for at least 1/2 hour&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If it is disc then need to turn the wheel 1/4 turn a couple times &#xA;Me I use this hour to clean the next bike &#xA;Wax the frame&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Lube the chain&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hit pedals, derailleur, and other exposed metal parts with a small shot of WD40&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't hit disc or wheel with WD40&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the disc is not bone dry then leave it in the sun longer  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for threads when you have the bolt out then grease the thread before you put it back in. &#xA;I never pull a bolt just to grease the threads.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a lot sulfur in the air then don't feed it with water to create sulfuric acid unless you are going to protect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T17:37:44.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8022" CreationDate="2015-02-02T17:40:06.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of good answers above. One thing that hasn't been mentioned: You (OP) said that you had a road bike &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a mountain bike. Depending on the style of mountain bike, it may not work with some carriers that hold the bicycle from the top tube. There are adapters available to fix that: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.discountramps.com/bike-adapter/p/AA-8602/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.discountramps.com/bike-adapter/p/AA-8602/&lt;/a&gt;. Or, you could also get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.discountramps.com/wheel-mount-bike-racks/c/6157/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;platform/wheel mount bicycle carrier&lt;/a&gt;, where the bicycle tires rest in channels on the rack. Those are available in both trunk mount and hitch mount styles, although the trunk mount ones are a bit bulky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roof mounted carriers are great in that they don't block tail lights and license plates, and they don't add to the length of the vehicle. With smaller cars like Corollas or Fiestas, lifting the bicycles shouldn't be too difficult (especially lightweight road bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17241" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T17:40:06.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28844" CreationDate="2015-02-02T17:53:31.167" Score="0" ViewCount="1126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Nitto Technomic stem that I'd like to use on a '92 trek 930 with the idea of converting it from a mountain bike to a poor man's expedition touring bike with drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/alloy-shim-to-fit-1-inch-222-mm-insert-quill-stem-to-1-1-8-inch-forks-prod430/?geoc=us&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shim&lt;/a&gt; that would seem to do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this? Is it a bad idea? I can't think of any reason why, but that's why I'm throwing it out here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15891" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T12:16:04.523" Title="Can I use a 1&quot; stem on a 1 &amp; 1/8&quot; steer tube?" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;&lt;steerer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28831" CreationDate="2015-02-02T18:24:51.813" Score="2" ViewCount="1932" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using Shimano XTR cranks since my bike was assembled in 2002 (fc-m952?). I've replaced the rings a few times in the past (though not in several years) but it appears that these cranks were crafted in such a way as to preclude the use of off-the-shelf rings. As a result it seems to be rather difficult / impossible to find replacements anymore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in need of new rings again so it seems I have two choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace the whole set  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adapt using something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbtandems.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;path=62_84&amp;amp;product_id=78&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; - and replace with 'standard' rings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know enough about bike parts and availability to make a clear decision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note that the shifters are also XTR of the same era so any replacement rings would need to be compatible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6255" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:16:43.547" Title="Older XTR cranks - replace or adapt?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28829" CreationDate="2015-02-02T19:00:14.230" Score="8" ViewCount="18785" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's common knowledge that &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2193/why-how-should-i-bed-in-disc-brake-pads&quot;&gt;disc brakes need to be bedded in&lt;/a&gt;. But I've never heard or found a description of what happens if you don't bed them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the number of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/887#887&quot;&gt;BSO&lt;/a&gt;'s that now have disc brakes, and the likelihood that 99% of those never get bedded in, I'm guessing that the consequences can't be too incredibly dire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what are those consequences? Reduced braking power? Uneven braking power? Squealing brakes? Reduced lifespan of pads and/or rotors? Are those consequences long term? Or do the brakes &quot;naturally&quot; bed in with regular use and the consequences are only short term?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2018-01-13T05:45:37.057" Title="What are the negative consequences of not bedding in disc brakes?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28827" CreationDate="2015-02-02T19:39:46.240" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take SRAM for example  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All new brake pads and rotors should be put through a wear-in process&#xA;  called ‘bed-in’. The bed-in procedure, which should be performed prior&#xA;  to your first ride, ensures the most consistent and powerful braking&#xA;  feel along with the quietest braking in most riding conditions. The&#xA;  bed-in process heats up the brake pads and rotors which deposits an&#xA;  even layer of brake pad material (transfer layer) to the braking&#xA;  surface of the rotor. It is this transfer layer that optimizes braking&#xA;  performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They clearly express the benefits:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;consistent and powerful braking feel along with the quietest braking in most riding conditions  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If normal riding achieved that SRAM would not have a specific procedure.  For one they warn not to lock up the brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you deposit an uneven layer I would suspect the consequences to be permanent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't get your logic on if BSO does not do it then it cannot be dire. I don't want my bike to perform like a BSO.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/OI4YGQgqZEcjy_yY3ADfOwZ7ERe_boIouJmwijm2BNs/mtime:1372788192/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000003513_rev_b_2012_bb7_bb5_service_manual_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Service Manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/yQiUbtfdoNE7eaQ7juU5TTlQNxTRkLZBjk24V7YBr5s/mtime:1372788171/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen0000000004358_rev_b_avid_brake_pad_advancement_install.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bed In Procedure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T19:39:46.240" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28827" CreationDate="2015-02-02T19:42:02.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your last comment is the operative point - it will happen anyway sooner or later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technology here is basically the same as with automobiles. You start off with new pads and a clean rotor. The bedding in process involves the deposit a small layer of pad onto the rotor (mixed in with a little frictional heat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until you have that layer on the rotor, braking could be less powerful and uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't ask this, but for completeness, the rotor should be cleaned whenever the pads are changed, using isopropyl alcohol. And, once the rotor is clean, the bedding-in process will start over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't see an awful lot on this subject if you look on the web at bike pages, but as I say if you start looking in the context of cars, there's lots out there and it is definitely not new technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T22:13:46.807" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T22:13:46.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28825" CreationDate="2015-02-02T20:16:08.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shifters+front derailleur don't care about the type of chain rings you're using (just that they're sized appropriately and you're running a double/triple as you were before).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the one hand, the adapter you linked is about 75 dollars + the cost of regular rings (which should work fine). On the other hand, replacing the crankset means a new bottom bracket (octalink v1 isn't exactly popular anymore,but its not hard to find replacement octalink v1 bottom brackets) and a new crankset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably personally opt for the new crankset and BB, since I don't know about the reliability of these adapters and the price difference is pretty small (maybe 15 dollars). Plus, then, you don't risk someone putting a Octalink v2 BB on there some point and then ruining the crank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T20:16:08.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27410" CreationDate="2015-02-02T20:45:41.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;DT Swiss make a series of spokes called &lt;code&gt;ProLock&lt;/code&gt; which incorporate a re-usable thread-lock type feature. You can build these over several days no problem and re-true them for years without trouble. It isn't blue, so that isn't what you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual blue stuff is Loctite 242 which I would not personally want to use on spokes because it sets in ten minutes and is fully cured after 24 hours; after it cures you can fully break it apart but not make small adjustments, so later truing will not really work. Should you wish to remove it Loctite's data sheet suggests the correct solvent to use is &lt;code&gt;methylene chloride&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally use grease on spoke threads, as on any other threads which don't need locking. With grease or &lt;code&gt;ProLock&lt;/code&gt; you can take as long as you like. I never tried &lt;code&gt;Spoke Prep&lt;/code&gt; for lack of a UK supplier at a reasonable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T20:45:41.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8801" CreationDate="2015-02-02T21:06:27.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plain-gauge (PG) spokes will break at the shoulder (where they leave the hub) due to metal fatigue at some point during the life of the wheel. Varying the tension in a PG spoke tends to vary the amount of bend at the shoulder; varying the tension in a double-butted (DB) spoke tends to vary the length of the thinner section, which is much better from a fatigue perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no feel difference between 2.0mm-straight spokes, 2.0/1.8 DB-spokes and 2.0/1.5 DB-spokes at the same tension with the same rim. Source: I built them and rode them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no load-carrying difference between DB spokes and PG spokes either. Load-bearing capacity is a function of the spoke tension and the spoke count. If you take a look at the spoke specs of at least DT Swiss and Sapim spokes you will find that the DB spokes will take the same tension as (and often more than) their PG counterparts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option to consider is bladed spokes like the Sapim CX-Ray, which are basically DB spokes with the thinner section pressed flat. This has some nontrivial aerodynamic benefit and is also a bit easier to build with because you can hold the spoke straight: no need to worry about spoke wind-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T21:06:27.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28811" CreationDate="2015-02-02T21:08:33.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider using something like isopropyl alcohol to wipe down things that need to be clean but not moist/damp.  You can use that on brake components with no residue and with no harm to surrounding paint.  There are certainly volatile organic compounds that would also leave no residue (such as automotive brake cleaner) but those are typically not really good near paint.  Isopropyl alcohol is cheap and easy to find, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes get frequent washings. The common thing to do to the drivetrain afterwards is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bounce the bike on the rear wheel gently to shake out water from the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wrap a rag around the bottom of the chain and backpedal, getting off dirt and moisture&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply WD-40 to displace the moisture and allow to dry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after drying, use a dry rag and wipe the chain down again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply your favorite lube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for bolts, they are typically plated.  What will rust is the interior not the exterior. If the exterior is starting to rust, then you should address that by replacing the bolt if it's becoming pitted, otherwise clean the bolt, then, for an exposed bolt, wipe it with a WD-40 covered rag or something like T-9.  For a recessed bolt, put a drop of the same lube in the head recess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastEditorUserId="6486" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T07:57:48.293" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T07:57:48.293" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28816" CreationDate="2015-02-02T21:42:08.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want it to be yellow, waterproof, strong, and 10x10cm then the repair kit is replace the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a small hole Ortleib makes a repair kit  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/prodInfo.asp?pid=133&amp;amp;cid=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Universal Fabric Patch Kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T21:42:08.150" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28851" CreationDate="2015-02-03T02:23:02.260" Score="5" ViewCount="5419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a heavier rider, whilst still reducing, I am over 120kg or 260lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I have broken many spokes on the rear of my 26er sub-$500 mountain bike. Broken at the elbow. There could be many factors for this from being a cheaper bike to not maintaining the spokes. This is just background for this question.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to purchase a new hard tail bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given a choice of the same bike brand and model coming in either 27.5 or 29 where the wheel is also the same brand and model. &lt;strong&gt;Which is going to be a stronger wheel and less likely to break a spoke and last longer?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T22:00:58.343" Title="Wheel size for heavier rider, larger vs smaller" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28836" CreationDate="2015-02-03T02:54:00.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stronger wheel is going to be the stronger wheel. &#xA;Hub, spokes, rim, and build are more important than size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't get the question on size? You need to buy a size that fits the bike. &#xA;Everything else the same in theory the smaller size is stronger. &#xA;Buy the wheel size that fits the riding you want. &#xA;If you are also tall then 29&quot; is probably a better fit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are not going to get a strong wheel on sub $500 bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to pay more like $500 alone for a good set of wheels. &#xA;You can pay $400 for single hub. &#xA;Look for downhill wheels. They go for strength over weight. &#xA;Not going to name brands but most all of the majors make downhill wheels. &#xA;People (and pros) downhill on 29&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be better of buying a used bike and putting new wheels on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T03:02:58.707" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T03:02:58.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-03T05:26:38.217" Score="-1" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate it if someone should take a look at this bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wheelyscafe.com/wheelys2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wheelyscafe.com/wheelys2.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize they are selling more than just a bike. But does 7K seem reasonable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not associated with the product. I'm thinking about investing in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a better, more specific question would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What questions should I ask them to know if the bike itself is of good quality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JdRuo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JdRuo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17248" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-02-19T19:17:33.880" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T19:17:33.880" Title="Is This Bike Worth 7K" Tags="&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-02-03T14:10:13.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28838" CreationDate="2015-02-03T06:34:59.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally would say yes, if you're running a business that is. With all those feautures there's a lot that comes into play (not just the end product). Its pretty much a moving shop. So yeah $7000 is a hefty investment but if you were serious and knew what you were doing you could make that back quite easily :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17234" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T06:34:59.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21894" CreationDate="2015-02-03T09:00:16.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like you say - the 8 speed shifter will work perfectly well with a 7 speed cassette.&#xA;You just lose the use of 1-click too many.&#xA;Poor shifting in the downward direction is usually a sign of poor cabling. Either old cables or poor routing. But you mention poor shifting in both directions - which looks suspiciously like a problem with the shifter itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark an exposed area of the gear cable and begin to shift up. You should see the cable move proportionally by the same amount each click. Now shift back down - you should see the cable move back to its exact original position. And this movement back down - should be instantaneous with no slack in the gear cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T09:00:16.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28836" CreationDate="2015-02-03T09:53:55.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Larger wheels tend to last longer, partly because they are less stressed by bumps and holes. A smaller wheel hitting the same size bump or hole gets &quot;caught&quot; in it more, so the impact and stress on the wheel is greater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four other factors count also. One is larger tires. 29ers can have larger tires, which also insulate the wheel rim from impacts. The second extra factor is spoke count. More spokes equal greater strength. The third factor is material quality, but I can't help on this one (apart from recommending stainless steel spokes). And the final factor is build quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You pay extra for every one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addendum. The excellent counter-argument by @Kibbee made me realize that a point is missing here. It's not just the wheel strength that needs to be considered. Wheels work by levering the vehicle over obstacles. Larger wheels mean longer levers, which soften the ride for you and the vehicle. Smaller wheels don't smooth out the shocks from the terrain, so those shocks are transmitted to the frame and you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is a rougher ride and earlier frame failure, especially without suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T21:15:39.560" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T21:15:39.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19183" CreationDate="2015-02-03T10:57:30.200" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can avoid this problem altogether with studded tires&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWHyG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pattern is deep enough so that it grabs quite well on the snow, and the studs give you a very good grip on ice and hard snow. On uniformly flat ice, the grip is almost as good as asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tires are good, you can wear them for all winter season, even if there is no ice. The studs are not very prominent, so the whole tire is still in contact with the road. This solves the problem of having to adapt to weather conditions. At my local bike store they assured me they would last for at least 5 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: I have tires like the one in the image in the Swedish winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: here, I have never seen cars them using chains or socks, they have winter tires instead, pretty much a car version of the image. Not all have studs, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14261" LastEditorUserId="14261" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T21:35:58.893" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T21:35:58.893" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28845" CreationDate="2015-02-03T11:32:26.733" Score="3" ViewCount="1365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had to dash home for a minor emergency. I noticed that one pedal was a bit wobbly but I had no choice but to push on. Once I got home and the emergency had been dealt with I noticed that my pedal no longer screws into the drive side crankarm as the rotating of the pedal when it was wobbly has worn away the grooves within the crankarm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should my course of action be? Do I need to replace the crankarm or as its the drive side do I need to replace the whole chain set? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17252" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T17:29:25.577" Title="I have a broken my drive side crankarm - what do I need to do?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28824" CreationDate="2015-02-03T12:16:04.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done the opposite (but drop bars before and after), and have a quill stem adaptor to use a non-quill stem with a threaded headset. My fork is 1&quot;, but the adaptor came with a similar shim for 1 1/8&quot; steerers. I've also used quill stems with threadless headsets, but only with matching sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any reason the product you link to won't do the job it's designed for though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To replace a non-quill stem with a quill stem you'll need something like &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/locking_headset_spacers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/locking_headset_spacers&lt;/a&gt;, cf. &quot;Threadless Without Spacers&quot; at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html#threadless&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html#threadless&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you are replacing a 1 1/8&quot; quill stem on your trek though?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T12:16:04.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28843" CreationDate="2015-02-03T12:37:44.870" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you need to replace the crank arm, if tightening the bolt does not make it 100% solid again.  No doubt the crank arm had been loose for days, and had you tightened it earlier you might have &quot;saved&quot; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there's some danger that you have damaged the crank axle as well, meaning the bottom bracket cartridge will need changing out as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have speculated that a &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; misshapen crank could be saved by fashioning a shim of aluminum sheet metal (ie, beer/pop can), but I've never had need to try that, and it sounds like yours is in too bad of shape for that to have a chance to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'll add that replacing just the arm vs a larger assembly is a matter of feasibility and economics.  If you can't find a compatible replacement arm you may need to just install a new crankset, or you may discover that the entire crankset is cheaper than the replacement arm.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Added&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out below, the OP's description is more consistent with a failure at the joint between the crank arm and the pedal than between the crank arm and the crank shaft.  If this is the case there is some chance that a &quot;Helicoil&quot; can be installed to fix it.  This can be done by a skilled bike mechanic or a machine shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In this case the pedal is likely toast, however.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T16:36:41.320" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T16:36:41.320" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="695" CreationDate="2015-02-03T14:23:11.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the time the question was asked, there were no 16&quot; studded bike tyres.&#xA;Now, however, there are: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.com/en/pressereader/spikes-for-birdy-and-brompton.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbe.com/en/pressereader/spikes-for-birdy-and-brompton.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But unfortunately there are two different 16&quot; rim sizes, and the new Schwalbes are 349mm (as used by Brompton), and 16&quot; Dahon is 305mm. It &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be possible to fit a Brompton sized wheel in some 16&quot; Dahons, but I wouldn't bet on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Since the title asks about &quot;small wheels&quot; and readers with other size small wheels might find it in a search: 20&quot; studded tyres, as used by different Dahons, have been available for a while, e.g. Marathon Winter . It's possible to fit a 20&quot; wheel in a Birdy, but only with a skinny tyre, so the new 18&quot; makes a studded Birdy possible.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="1158" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T14:37:28.593" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T14:37:28.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28802" CreationDate="2015-02-03T14:34:47.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grandmother worked for Sears for 40 years and almost everything I ever got from her came from there. She got this bike for me for Christmas 1970. It was the sickest bike on my street and was stolen by the end of the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been looking and believe it might be a Sears Spyder 500 5-speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17236" LastEditorUserId="17236" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T14:52:39.463" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T14:52:39.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28811" CreationDate="2015-02-03T14:46:39.193" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read Chris Cleeland's answer and was appalled that his was the accepted answer.  Let me first state that I used to be a bike mechanic, and I ride through inclement weather year round.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another already stated, WD40 is useful for cleaning, but you should &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; use it on your drive-train (chain, freewheel, front cogs).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wrote that you are concerned that:  &quot; My bolts, chain and discs for my brakes &quot; are getting rusty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain rust is terrible for your bike and should be guarded against carefully.  If your chain is already rusted, I recommend you go ahead and replace it immeidately.  Rust on your chain will wear your casset and chainring, so it's not worth saving the money on replacing the chain only to have to replace the cassette later.  I'll tell you how to care for you chain below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bolts rusting is not really a big deal, although it's ugly, and will make maintenance harder.  You can buy stainless-steel rust-free bolts and replace these for a minimal cost, which I do on all my bikes as soon as I see a bit of rust.  You can also buy expensive titanium bling, but I consider that a waste of money.  When you replace the bolts, pay attention to the torque (rotational force) and don't overtighten them.  Do one at a time, especially on the headset, so you don't have to worry about changing the settings (if you loosen all the headset bolts at once, for example, you'll have to adjust the headset).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was surprised to hear you have rust on your disk brakes since I've never seen that before (I worked as a mechanic pre-disc brakes, and I never see rust on the bikes I currently maintain).  I did a bit of googling around, and it seems to be a common problem.  It's only cosmetic so you can safely ignore it -- any rust on the braking surface will quickly be scraped away when you brake.    But since I hate rust, I would suggest rubbing it off with a scotch-brite pad -- but nothing which might leave an oily residue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay -- now how to keep care of your bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is just opinion, but I suggest lightening up on the cleaning.  A little dirt on an mtb just shows you actually ride.  I generally just knock the mud off with a brush and water, so it's not a chore to do maintenance.  I do try to keep the deraillers, pedals, chainring and cassette reasonably tidy  (Brush and low-pressure hose is plenty).  Keeping your brakes and drive train clean and well maintained is important however.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would never ever ever use a pressure washer or compressed air to clean a bike.  Your components have well engineered seals to keep out water and dirt, but they are not designed to protect against a pressure washer or compressed air.  You might make your bike look pretty, but degrade the mechanics.   It can also drive dirt hard across your paint job scratching it up, so even on the static parts I wouldn't use it.  A good scrub brush is much safer, and works just as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to maintain your drive train&lt;/strong&gt;  This is surprisingly easy, but few people do it right.  First buy a lube that is appropriate to the weather you have.  Your local bike shop can help you out there.  Then always ensure that your chain has a &lt;em&gt;light coat of oil&lt;/em&gt;.  A light coat of lube means enough to lube it, but not enough to retain dirt.  If you get black print of oil on your hand when you touch it -- you've oiled too much.  Too much oil is as bad as too little, since oil grabs dirt, and dirt wears down your drive train.  To oil your chain, just to the following:  1.  put some oil on the chain.  2. hold a rag against the chain and cycle the chain through the rag until no more oil ends up on the chain.  If you have a really dirty chain, and you get black ugly muck on the rag, you can repeat this process a few times.  Do this regularly and it's super quick process.  I suggest you never oil your chain without wiping it with a rag afterwards.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally oil and wipe my chain once every couple of weeks, and whenever I've done a really wet or muddy ride.  Once in a while I'll pop the rear wheel off and clean the cassete if I notice it's getting gunky, but if you keep the chain well maintained this isn't often necessary.  Same with the chainwheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for WD-40 -- I'll use it to clean the chainwheels or cassette sometimes (wiping it away well afterwards), but I wouldn't ever spray in on the chain.  It dilutes your lube, making it less effective.  It's great on cables and bolts, but be careful not to let it slop over onto your disk brakes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10911" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T14:46:39.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28802" CreationDate="2015-02-03T15:57:21.997" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to be a Huffy Rail. The decal on the chain guard is exactly the same.  All the geometry, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sP0kW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6796" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T15:57:21.997" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28836" CreationDate="2015-02-03T19:53:50.230" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard before that a smaller wheel is actually stronger, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/155210-26-inch-wheels-vs-29-inch-wheels-in-mountain-biking/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; states the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because a 26-inch wheel has a smaller circumference than a larger 700c wheel, the rim is structurally stronger and resists deformation from impact. Wheels that are 26 inches excelled at handling hard drop-offs and even crashes without losing their true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I understand it is that a 26 inch wheel is shorter, and therefore has a shorter lever arm when stressing the spokes. Imagine you had an enormous wheel. Because it's so big, you'd need very little force along the rim of the tire to deform the rim. Now imagine a smaller 20 inch or even smaller wheel. You would required a lot of force to deform the rim because it's being applied closer to the hub.  Also, assuming the same number of spokes, the smaller rim will have the spokes closer together on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to find a couple other sites that agree that smaller wheels are stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingabout.com/700c-vs-26-inch-wheel-size-for-touring/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;700c vs 26inch Wheel Size for Touring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site states, among other information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Not everyone can afford the highest quality wheel and tyre parts. If&#xA;  this is you, a 26inch wheel will offer more strength for your buck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bansheebikes.blogspot.ca/2013/10/wheel-size-facts-part-1-dimensions.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wheel size facts Part 1.... Dimensions, Weight and Strength&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If comparing like to like wheel builds (same rims, hubs etc), smaller&#xA;  wheels will always inherently be stronger than larger wheels. This is&#xA;  due to wider gaps between spoke eyelets and poorer spoke triangulation&#xA;  etc. So strength to weight ratio is something that will always be won&#xA;  by smaller wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T21:34:33.817" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T21:34:33.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28805" CreationDate="2015-02-04T15:09:29.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the points noted in other answers, there is a significant technical difference: bearings.  Traditionally, Dura-Ace equipment with bearings has had much better quality bearings/races/cups/seals/etc. That appears to be true here as well. Look at the parts breakdown documents from shimano and you'll see a significant difference in the axle/bearing setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev/EV-PD-6800-3607.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PD-6800&lt;/a&gt; - 12 ball bearings inboard, 12 outboard with bushing between&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev/EV-PD-9000-3329.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PD-9000&lt;/a&gt; - 17 ball bearings inboard, 9 outboard with needle bearing between&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bearings in the 9000 will live much longer and deal with intense loads better than the 6800. That said, the 6800 is a fine pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastEditorUserId="26095" LastEditDate="2017-01-11T15:16:02.197" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T15:16:02.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28843" CreationDate="2015-02-04T17:29:25.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you pretty good mechanically?  You could try this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.com/2010/12/repairing-stripped-pedal-thread.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Repairing stripped pedal thread&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T17:29:25.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28854" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-04T17:55:10.133" Score="5" ViewCount="14228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed the other day that my frame has a crack in it! I believe that it's my seat post causing the problem. A couple of questions really, a) how serious is this? and b) can it be repaired?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3kh5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;crack in seat tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I've added a picture of the height of the seat-post to give some extra context on whether or not the frame is too small for me. I've never thought that the seat was crazy high or anything; is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8vthb.png&quot; alt=&quot;seat-height in situ&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastEditorUserId="1560" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T13:10:28.430" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T16:17:57.847" Title="What can I do about a cracked frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;crack&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28854" CreationDate="2015-02-04T19:17:37.723" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell from the photo ( is that large vertical streak said crack? ), but if your frame is cracked, don't use it. Riding on a cracked frame is risky as it could result in a catastrophic failure / injury / death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like that's probably a steel frame, so find a local frame builder ( not your buddy who's handy with a welder ), and depending on the damage they may be able to repair it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T19:17:37.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28857" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-04T21:45:09.493" Score="5" ViewCount="50522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike with a compact crank and 11-25 rear cassette(9 rings) at the moment. And my local climb is 35k long with an incline between 10- 30%. I really struggle with it. I have to stop like 5- 10 times to complete it. I am thinking of upgrading the cassette. I have an option between 11-30,32,34. I was wondering if it is really worth it to get the biggest cassette? Any opinions would be appreciated? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14444" LastActivityDate="2019-01-23T05:10:23.527" Title="Is 11- 34 rear cassette necessary?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28857" CreationDate="2015-02-04T22:00:18.900" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;For grades beyond 10% having a gear that you can spin at the rate you can climb makes a big difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only you can know exactly what gear that should be. If you can find a gear ratio tool that displays speeds for a given gear, wheel size and rpm. This one seems pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecalc.com/cadence_at_speed&quot;&gt;http://www.bikecalc.com/cadence_at_speed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then think about your typical speeds while climbing on the steep sections. You need a gear that will allow you to spin at a least 60 rpm and still keep those speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gear that works at 30% and 60 rpm probably isn't possible with a compact crankset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, Where I ride has lots of climbs above 10% in the 5-10k range and I see lot's of riders with compact cranksets and 11-34 clusters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think if you are really considering this, you'd be much better off getting a compact 110 Bcd triple and something like 24/36/48 gearing. It's not that you get that much lower gears, but you get many more useable gears. Having a choice of a few gears in the low range makes a lot of difference compared to just the one or two extra low gears you get by going to a wide range cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T22:31:14.433" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T22:31:14.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28854" CreationDate="2015-02-04T22:09:23.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, how much did this bike cost? It looks to be at least 30 years old, judging by the tire and brakes we see in this picture, and even when it was new, I doubt it was worth repairing this kind of damage. The cost of repairing it would be far in excess of buying a new bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you'd spent $1500 on it, even 30 years ago, well, maybe it's worth it. But probably not. My guess is that $300 would have been an excessive amount when it was new, and the bill to repair this crack would be larger than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2442" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T22:09:23.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28854" CreationDate="2015-02-04T22:09:43.640" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to get beat up for this but steel frames don't fail catastrophically.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull that post.  If the end of the post is in the middle of the crack then look for a longer post.  Get a seat post that extends at least 2&quot; below the bottom of the crack and ideally 4&quot;. &#xA;The post reinforces the frame.   Mark the two ends of the crack.  If the crack grows stop riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is kind of ghetto but put a couple hose clamps on the crack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That old frame is not really worth a professional repair.  But you may be able to get a couple more years out of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that was an aluminum frame I would tell you to throw it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T22:09:43.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28857" CreationDate="2015-02-04T22:20:15.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get the biggest. &#xA;The down side is some bigger spacings. &#xA;If money is an issue consider used.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have the option to not use a gear you do have. &#xA;But you can't use a gear you don't have.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cassettes wear out. If you find yourself rarely using the 34 and/or 32 then get tighter for  the next. Start with the biggest for a data point.  If that is not enough then go triple next. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you already have the smallest possible chairing on the compact?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="3649" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T15:07:21.810" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T15:07:21.810" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28864" CreationDate="2015-02-05T04:57:27.777" Score="2" ViewCount="1049" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of questions here about back-pain, but generally about cycling in general and cycling on flat surfaces.&#xA;I am after more practical tips on avoiding back pain when cycling up hills - with gradients between 10 to 22% (moderate to steep!).&#xA;Any suggestions?&#xA;I heard regular core stretching and exercises helps with this considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T18:08:15.797" Title="Back pain when cycling up hills" Tags="&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28863" CreationDate="2015-02-05T06:13:17.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many factors involved that can lead to back pain that I would be suspicious of anyone providing &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some factors that can affect &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Your current bike fit.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Body angle: is your current fit very aggressive or more relaxed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is you seat set back appropriate or too far back?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your saddle height correct for your level of flexibility?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Your Technique&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you position yourself on your bike  when climbing  (e.g., do you use the tops of the bars or do you get in the drops)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you spin or do you mash gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Your current bike setup&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What gearing do you currently have&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this gearing sufficiently low enough for climbs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other personal factors&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you injured your back before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is your hamstring flexibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is your mid and lower back flexibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is your hip flexors flexibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;The list goes on&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Summary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After addressing all of these issues I would then start looking at factors such as core strength, functional weaknesses and associated exercises. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short, narrowing down the cause of back pain is often can be difficult.  I would suggest finding a someone who specializes in both physio and bike fitting. They exist and will likely be your best bet at tracking down the cause and finding a solution.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T06:13:17.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28871" CreationDate="2015-02-05T06:41:11.347" Score="1" ViewCount="16651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Garmin Edge 500. Records everything I need, but the pain is uploading and managing the data into Strava.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to walk in from my ride, have a shower, have breakfast and see my ride stats straight away in my iPad or PC. In other words, I don't want to touch the device until the battery is about to run out. I don't want to plug in my device to anything either (usb, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the Edge 500 cannot do this automatically as it does not have Bluetooth or Wifi, but it can connect without cables to the Cadence Sensor, etc. So why can't there be a hack or something to be able to &quot;force&quot; it to download the FIT file once within range of your internet at home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask this here is because I usually ride with my partners very early in the morning, and when I come home I have a lot to do before I go to work - have breakfast, get ready, kids to school, etc. By the time I get to work, and if I have time, I then upload the ride's stats into Strava usually around noon. By then it's &quot;too late&quot; as my ride buddies have already given Kudos to each other and I hardly get any, plus the ones I do get are days later from other people I don't even ride with. I know this sounds egoistic, but that's beside the point of the question and subjective to each one's needs of why we ride, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T08:10:18.703" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T08:10:18.703" Title="How to seamlessly upload to Strava after a ride using a Garmin Edge 500?" Tags="&lt;garmin&gt;&lt;strava&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-02-05T21:06:23.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28865" CreationDate="2015-02-05T08:31:23.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Garmin Edge 510 can use bluetooth to pair with your smartphone. Then when you save a ride on the garmin, it'll automatically upload immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T08:31:23.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28865" CreationDate="2015-02-05T09:03:54.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Garmin Connect Edge 1000 has Wi-Fi which can auto-upload to Connect - and subsequently to Strava.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the simplest solution is to use your phone? - however this has the disadvantage of draining the battery on it. So probably best used for those shorter training rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T09:03:54.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28874" CreationDate="2015-02-05T09:25:38.400" Score="4" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently serviced my FH-RM66 and was surprised to find that the cones have a couple of washers in the middle. The cones are monolithic, so the weashers can't be holding it together or absorbing vibrations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What purpose are those washers serving? And how were they mounted in there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Fcp1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T13:26:59.903" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T13:26:59.903" Title="What are those washers for?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28854" CreationDate="2015-02-05T09:25:38.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dawes Galaxy? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like an older model - so a good quality touring frameset - possibly Reynolds tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, what price do you put on sentimentality? &#xA;I'm not sure where the idea of long seatpost comes from as the picture doesn't show it. But if you are UK based a company like Argos cycles can easily fix that frame for you. Its a welding job - so the frame could be resprayed and Dawes decals reapplied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On their website they quote £120 for a seat tube repair but this is a complete replacement of the seat tube. So yours &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be different.&#xA;A full respray is £135.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T09:25:38.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28854" CreationDate="2015-02-05T09:45:16.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of years ago we had a new seat tube fitted to my wifes bike (a 20 year old Claud Butler Lady Dale) after it sheared where it joined the top tube - this was on a step through frame. Fortunately we live close enough to Roberts, one of the few frame builders in the UK, to be able to deliver it. I had to strip the frame for them and it cost about £150. They completely stripped the paint off the frame so we had it powder coated - approx £100. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did this as she really likes the bike and finds it comfortable for long rides. I don't think that we could get something similar for the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get a new seat tube, you will probably have to send it away. None of the local bike shops would consider it - they make money selling new bikes after all. I think that only Mercian and Roberts offered a quote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this has given you an idea of the costs and what is involved. If you like your bike as it is then it can be a viable option. I suspect that the longer seat post may be the cheaper alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T09:45:16.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28865" CreationDate="2015-02-05T09:45:44.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally use a Garmin Edge 810 which can connect via Bluetooth to your smartphone and then automatically upload rides to Garmin Connect. The auto-transfer from Garmin Connect then allows your ride to appear in Strava almost immediately, however, this isn't without it's short-comings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per my comment on Mac's answer, I have found the auto-upload functionality very hit and miss ever since owning my 810 in April last year. Recent firmware updates have significantly improved the reliability, but it's still not perfect. Saying that, the fact it doesn't hit my phone's battery life is the winner for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of different devices on the market, but a quick look on Strava's own store has highlighted the Wahoo RFLKT which connects to your smart phone. Without a connection to your smart phone, the Wahoo is essentially useless. However, it would appear to be quite good as it allows a direct connection with your Strava app (displaying data that the app outputs), only costs $99 and then you have the piece of mind that your data will ultimately end up in Strava as soon as you finish your ride. This again has it's own cons as you need to use your phone as the main cycle computer, ultimately draining your battery quite rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then really comes down to an argument of which appears more useful. A standalone bike computer with the ability to auto-upload when paired with a mobile phone, or a computer which simply displays data outputted by the Strava app at the sacrifice of your phone's battery life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.strava.com/collections/devices/products/copy-of-wahoo-rflkt&quot;&gt;Wahoo RFLKT on the Strava store&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://shop.strava.com/collections/devices/ride#ride&quot;&gt;Other alternatives on the Strava store&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17159" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T09:45:44.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28836" CreationDate="2015-02-05T11:26:53.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;26&quot; wheels are stronger than 28&quot; wheels but I think you can get 28&quot; wheel suitable for your weight that will last. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever size you choose I would advise you to invest in your rear wheel instead of using stock wheel you get from the shop. Buy strong rim suitable for 36 spokes, find a reputable wheel builder in your area, and ask him to build a wheel with quality spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if you are buying new bicycle, make sure your position on it is ok. If you are for instance sitting to far back, that will affect weight distribution, and your rear wheel will have to bear even more stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more options to make stronger rear wheel, like using 40 or more spokes, wider rear axle, non dished rear wheel with internal hub, etc But all these require significantly larger investment than just getting strong well built rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T11:26:53.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28868" CreationDate="2015-02-05T12:43:48.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That washer is a part of the &quot;seal&quot; system for the hub.  If you look at the hub there is a lightweight metal cap pressed into the hub over the area of the bearing race, and that washer (which is plastic) fairly snugly fit into the hole in that cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't create a water-tight seal, but it's tight enough to keep out a lot of the dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never studied closely how the washer is placed there.  I would assume that the cone is made of two pieces that are swaged together during manufacturing, but I can't say for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T12:43:48.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28863" CreationDate="2015-02-05T18:08:15.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past, I've found that riding in the drops could help with back pain on long climbs, especially out of the saddle. Dunno if it works for you, but it's easy to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T18:08:15.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28865" CreationDate="2015-02-05T19:56:17.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to set it up on a PC, but you can upload the files directly to Strava and skip Garmin Connect altogether. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Garmin 500 is just a usb drive like any other drive and you can upload the files&#xA;using the Strava website. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not automatic, but it's a lot less painful than using any Garmin software. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T19:56:17.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2015-02-05T21:23:39.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of classics for you...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxBTVU9JDrA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A Sunday in Hell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUIr9LG1juw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Stars and The Water Carriers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastEditorUserId="16979" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T21:30:45.363" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T21:30:45.363" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-02-05T21:23:39.437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28882" CreationDate="2015-02-06T14:44:49.563" Score="2" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to have a trip in Texel island(North-Holland) in April,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are a group of 5 people, 22 years old, who know how to ride a bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But we do not train on cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will a trip of 40km, in 8 hours+-, with an E-Bike be very hard for us?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17276" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T13:06:21.357" Title="Will 40km E-Bike trip in Texel Island(Holland) be hard for untrained people?" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28880" CreationDate="2015-02-06T17:00:51.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;40km over 8 hours is just 5km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking back to when I first started cycling (and was unfit), even then I would average something between 15-20km/h. On that basis alone you should have ample time to complete your ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Texel is a beautiful place, there is little traffic (plus you will have many traffic-free, tarmac cycle routes) and it is perfectly flat. The only foreseeable problem will be the wind, so make sure you dress accordingly. To give an idea, I was staying once near Alkmaar, and rode up to Den Helder at around 40km/h. The return journey, however, was 20km/h - that is the difference the wind makes over there, and there really is no escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But having said all that, that sounds exactly like when an eBike would be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to carry some windproof gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T17:26:26.033" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T17:26:26.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T20:39:05.733" Score="2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last 2 runs out my bike I have as suffered from what I can only describe as the pedal free wheeling ie pressure put on pedal does not drive the bike, but after a couple of turns it then drive the bike forward. New cassette and chain installed by bike shop 2 years ago, only used once a week but in a fairly steep inclined countryside on short outings ie mountains. advice appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17279" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T01:46:26.810" Title="Scott Mountain bike. Problem with pedaling" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28883" CreationDate="2015-02-06T21:16:30.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can happen easily when a new chain is installed with a cassette that is worn, but you would likely notice that it's the chain skipping in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the culprit is the engagement system inside of the hub of your rear wheel. The engagement system has teeth that lock when you pedal, and if too many of these teeth become worn you won't get any power transfer, it sounds like this is your most likely culprit. I've had this happen before, and it tends to only get worse. If it seems like this is what's happening, take the rear wheel into the shop and see what they can do for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BVNNy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear hub cutaway&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T01:46:26.810" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T01:46:26.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2015-02-06T22:33:17.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hell_on_Wheels_%282004_film%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hell on Wheels&lt;/a&gt; is a German movie portraying Erik Zabel and Rolf Aldag during the Tour de France 2003. It gives quite some insights into cycling on that level (while it ignores doping and we meanwhile know that the participants did quite some doping during that time ...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2476" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T22:33:17.233" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-02-06T22:33:17.233" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-07T01:07:18.420" Score="2" ViewCount="12678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just replaced my disc brakes with avid bb5s. The braking is fine but there is a severe shudder, especially when braking hard. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your responses but I have solved the problem. The online parts store provides only one bracket for front or rear. The front brake actually requires a shallower bracket, so the pads were skipping across the cutouts in the disc. The LBS was able to supply me with the proper bracket and the shuddering went away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17281" LastEditorUserId="17281" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T05:02:51.253" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T10:18:21.630" Title="why are my disc brakes shuddering" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28887" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-07T17:11:35.947" Score="1" ViewCount="5986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my son a cheap mountain bike last week, it did 2 miles before the chain mashed up the drailleur. is it worth replacing with a better quality component. im a novice , but handy enough to upgrade. he loves the look of the bike but my question is , is it worth the effort..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17285" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T18:31:30.703" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T16:41:59.520" Title="Would a quality derailleur improve a cheap bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;upgrade-or-new-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28887" CreationDate="2015-02-07T18:23:51.337" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your bicycle is a BSO (bicycle shaped object sold at discount mass retailers), then likely no. You'd spend $100+ labor on the derailleur and a new chain, but then the next week the brakes would fail,  the handlebar would come off, or the frame would crack. BSOs are money pits. Furthermore, it's unlikely you could just replace the derailleur, you'd have to also buy new shift levers or brifters, depending on what you're replacing it with. If the derailleur ate the chain, then it's likely that the derailleur hanger will also be bent or misaligned.  I'd use the return policy of the store to return the bike. It was clearly misassembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your son's bike was a quality used bike (like a late 1980s hardtail Specialized Rockhoppper)  then it's likely that the &quot;bones&quot; are good and that upgrading some components would be worth your while. A better derailleur would lead to faster and smoother shifts. But you'd still run into the problem that by the time you get new derailleurs and shifters, you might have spent enough to buy a used 2000s Trek mountainbike. There's plenty of life in the older hardtails and many people prefer them to the newfangled things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;  A store return isn't possible as it was bought off of the street and that the owner has £85 in sunk costs for a bike that would be about £130 new -- i.e., a little bit above a £50 BSO but not yet into the middle end. With £85 in sunk costs, I think you want to keep your repairs to under £25 given that you already spent a bit on a new tire and tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The likely thing that happened is that the old derailleur's high or low-limits were not set correctly. Thus when your son unknowingly shifted up or down (likely up), the chain skipped merrily off the rear sprockets into either axle (from the highest -- i.e., smallest-- gear) or the spokes (from the lowest). This then jammed the rear wheel, yanked the derailleur into bits, and it's lucky your son didn't have an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you need to assess the damage. The rear derailleur is mostly probably bent/broken beyond repair (while tempting you cannot unbend it). Check the chain carefully, it is likely to have some bent or damaged links. Check the rear sprocket, are any of the cogs damaged? Check the spokes if the chain damaged them. Check the derailleur hanger, is it still straight? Check the front chain ring and derailleur, do they look good? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lucky, the damage is just limited to the rear derailleur and to the chain. If the chain appears to have any damage at all, it's safer to get a new one (a bend in the chain or kink will cause chain suckage again). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is finding a new derailleur. You want to keep the old shifters if possible to save money. There are two factors: one is the number of gears (7/8/9) on the rear and the second is the shifting mechanism. If you want to DIY, then you could purchase a new rear derailleur (assuming you have a 7-8 cassette on the rear, they go for around £10-20 for the cheapest models, but again make sure it's compatible with your shifters). Then look online for detailed instructions and be sure to set the hi/lo limits on your derailleur correctly -- and make sure your derailleur hanger is straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a new chain, then you'll need to get a chain breaker tool as well, so budget that in. Other tools you may need will include a set of hex keys (allen wrenches), screwdrivers, adjustable wrench, bandaids (for skinned knuckles), pliers (to crimp the ferrule of the derailleur cable, don't forget to get some ferrule caps), and a BIG adjustable wrench if your derailleur hanger is bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, it's not trivial to install and adjust a rear derailleur correctly and not really a project for a brand new bike mechanic, especially when the test subject is your son. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a local bike store that appears to have been around since the time of the Wright Brothers. The greasier the better.  Go to it with your tail between your legs and ask if they might have an old, used derailleur that will fit your bike. Do not wear nice clothes when you go. Bring your son and have him make puppy dog eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your store is anything like the place that I have downtown, then they can dig out an old, compatible derailleur from their parts bin for £3 (US$5) and might even put it on for you for a few quid more. Be sure to patronize them in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T16:41:59.520" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T16:41:59.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24690" CreationDate="2015-02-07T20:26:34.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;iirc - the Arch Rival V-brakes are described as parallel because the brake block surfaces are always parallel to the rim braking surface at whatever distance from the rim. This in theory improves braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than this - they function the same as a normal V-brake in that the arms act as levers to apply the brake blocks to the rim surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjustment may be a bit more picky - in that as the cable is loosened and the braking arms move outward - it will raise the brake blocks to keep them parallel to the rim. Therefore, to get the pads further from the rim - you may have to slacken of significantly more tension than with traditional V-brakes.&#xA;You may have to undo the cable entirely to slacken enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T20:26:34.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28887" CreationDate="2015-02-07T20:33:06.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I basically agree with @RoboKaren's answer, but wanted to add a couple of things that would take up too much space for a comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For starters, you say that the chain mashed up the derailleur. So the derailleur was actually the &quot;victim&quot; of the problem, not necessarily the cause. So while you might need to replace the derailleur, that is likely not the only thing that needs attention&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To put things into perspective, you could (arguably) split a bike into four parts - frame, brakes, gears and wheels. You're talking about upgrading a single part (your derailleur) of a single part (your gearing). You're simply not going to turn a bad bike into a good bike with that degree of change.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;you don't say how much you spent, but in general, for a limited budget, it makes more sense to get hold of a decent secondhand bike, than to buy something new. Of course, the trick here is being able to spot something &quot;decent&quot;, although there are plenty of past questions on this site which may help, and will tell you what the red flags are. I don't know where you'd stand as regards a refund - 2 miles is a pretty strong argument that the bike was badly put together, at least - but if that opportunity arises.....it is worth looking into. You can always ask for advice here if you don't see your query covered already&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T20:59:30.137" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T20:59:30.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28899" CreationDate="2015-02-07T22:02:36.360" Score="0" ViewCount="17018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an aluminum frame bicycle (mountain bike, 21-speed) that I purchased some time in the late 90s, it's marked &quot;Skykomish Eureka&quot; (though I can't find any evidence that such a brand and model ever existed), and it is currently outfitted with Shimano 300LX components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the rear shifter is giving up the ghost, as sometimes the lower (up) handle will go all the way back without &quot;catching&quot; whatever it's supposed to be catching in order to shift the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I toyed with the idea some time ago of replacing the components with something more upscale (back then, it would've been Shimano EX, I guess...), but I never did it. Now, I'm wondering whether it's worth the effort. I put several hundred dollars into this bicycle back then, so I'm confident it's not merely a BSO, but technology has come quite a way since those days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the basic components (hopefully just a couple derailleurs and shifters), would it also be possible to replace the existing short-arm cantilever brakes with the newer long-arm type (which I assume would increase braking power)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17287" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T16:55:46.457" Title="Is it possible/worth it to replace just shifters and derailleurs on an older MTB?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28893" CreationDate="2015-02-08T00:56:34.923" Score="2" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of nokian gazza extreme studded tires, sometimes replacement studs can be difficult to come by at retail. Are the studs interchangable between brands typically or should I stick to only the studs sold by the same manufacturer as the tire? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T04:11:29.300" Title="Are replacement MTB tire studs compatible between brands" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28892" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:23:38.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.com/2010/11/replacement-studs-for-studded-tires.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; measures the sizes of studs between manufacturers. The upshot of the article is that if you have Nokian, Schwalbe, Continental, Innova studs, the dimensions are essentially the same and can be swapped around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I'd expect Nokian (Suomi) studs to be the easiest ones to find these days anyway... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the essential from teh article linked above is that the studs are approximately:&#xA;&quot;Overall height: 5.8mm (pointed), and 5.5mm (domed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Base height: 1.0mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Base diameter: 6.5mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shaft diameter: 3.4mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tip diameter: 2.0mm&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T04:11:29.300" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T04:11:29.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28912" CreationDate="2015-02-08T12:47:38.907" Score="1" ViewCount="19222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded following parts to Shimano 5800 (front and rear derailleurs, crankset, chain, STI shifters). The last thing left to replace is 8 speed Shimano CS-HG51 cassette. Unfortunately I cannot index the new 105 5800 shifter with this cassette. I guess the space between the rear cogs are not the same as in 10/11 cassettes.&#xA;Could you please confirm that?&#xA;Also do I need specific 11 cassette for my Shimano 105 5800 group or maybe 10 would be enough? Changing to 11 would force me to change the hub as well, as it is only compatible for 10 cassettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17291" LastActivityDate="2017-07-12T20:45:12.490" Title="Changing cassette from 8 to 10 or 11 to meet the Shimano 105 5800 groupset" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28880" CreationDate="2015-02-08T13:06:21.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: No you'll be fine and (if the weather allows) you'll have a wonderful day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: You are on an e-bike, 40km is about two hours of riding on an e-bike. This is independent of fitness, because you are on an e-bike. Saddlesoreness (is that a word?) might be an issue, but given that you have 8 hours total you can bike short bits with long breaks in between to rest your tender bits. If it turns out range is an issue you'll come across dozens of places where you can use those same six hours you have left to charge your batteries. Texel isn't crowded by dutch standards but it is by no means empty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highest point of Texel is 15.3m above sea level, the lowest point about 1m below, so hills are not an issue either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than your fitness level I expect the weather (rain and/or wind) might be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T13:06:21.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-08T16:26:35.783" Score="2" ViewCount="1416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at getting a new bike to replace my current hardtail mtb for commuting about 8 miles a day, plus possible train travel, and longer commutes elsewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a budget of under £400, do I go for a mid range singlespeed/fixie with a flip flop hub, and just man up and struggle through the hills, or get a bottom/low range road bike, risk it getting stolen/trampled/damaged, but have the ability to go on longer rides (which doesn't really interest me, but will still happen occasionally). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I see it, a singlespeed is less flashy, so therefore will not attract as much attention with regard to theft, and although would be a struggle on longer pleasure rides, will outweigh the benefits of a road bike with gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T09:06:16.397" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T02:18:19.160" Title="New bike advice - Singlespeed/fixed, mountain, or road" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28891" CreationDate="2015-02-08T16:58:56.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The great thing about bikes is that almost anything is possible for the home mechanic. But only you can answer the question of whether it's worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deraillers almost never &quot;wear out&quot;, at most they need new jockey wheels. They can get damaged or bent, often is is the hanger that is bent not the derailluer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So likely all you need is a new shifter, fortunately 7spd is a lot less complicated than bikes with more speeds. $17 for a new shifter &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/!q!CCO3MwJWuenvYwhoKCsA!/Shimano-M310-Shift-Lever?utm_source=FRGL&amp;amp;utm_medium=organic&amp;amp;gclid=CPby-unl0sMCFRRgfgodc0YAoQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jensonusa.com/!q!CCO3MwJWuenvYwhoKCsA!/Shimano-M310-Shift-Lever?utm_source=FRGL&amp;amp;utm_medium=organic&amp;amp;gclid=CPby-unl0sMCFRRgfgodc0YAoQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could put friction shifters on for a little more cash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does get worn out is the rear cogs or cassette. You might need a cassette&#xA;and chain. That's about $50 more or less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can put new canti's on there without changing the levers, if you go to V-brakes you'll need new levers. Generally getting good performance out of canti's has more to do with how well you set them up rather than the exact model you use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for roughly $100-$200 in parts, you can have a functional bike again. However, if you can't do the work yourself, paying someone else to do it is a long ways towards the price of a new bike. This also assumes you already have the tools ( although these repairs don't require much in the way of specialized tools. ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For roughly 3x what you'd spend in parts, you can get a lightly used MTB hardtail that will be a much nicer bike. If however, you enjoy tinkering around with bikes, then you really aren't concerned about the cost of parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've fixed up a fair number of older bikes and if you don't enjoy the process and satisfaction of making something old work again, it's almost never worth the effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T22:44:59.330" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T22:44:59.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-08T18:09:17.923" Score="2" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;When on the I brake I get a pulsating feedback on my rear brake lever. I checked to make sure the wheel is true, and also the dish, which is ok.I re-checked the torque on the caliper bolt and adjusted it to 9Nm. The tire also has no bumps that I can see or feel. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17295" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T01:26:33.843" Title="Pulsating feedback on brake levers" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-08T18:56:12.800" Score="1" ViewCount="2683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with Shimano Nexus 3 gear, and it's stuck on lowest gear. However, if I move shift pin that changes gears it changes the gears. So Nexus itself seems to be working, but the pin is not returning to correct position when going to higher gear. Is there a spring broken that should return the pin to correct position, and if so, how should I fix it? New spring? New wheel? Lot's of WD-40?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17296" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T11:35:52.957" Title="Shimano Nexus 3 stuck on lowest gear" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28898" CreationDate="2015-02-08T20:14:56.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are only really two things. First, as you identify, there is the issue of gradients. If you think that difference goes away if you just &quot;man up&quot;, good luck with that. Even if you had the leg power (most of us don't, we'd end up pushing the bike and likely mashing our knees in the process), it would be very difficult to select one gearing that would be suitable for all gradients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing is maintenance. Single speeds are a bit easier to maintain because there is no derailleur arrangement. Get your chainline right and you're basically down to fixing punctures. So if you're not into diy, or money will be tight as regards keeping the bike on the road, then that could be a factor. But you still have tyres, brakes and less frequently bottom brackets and chainrings to worry about, just like a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your reasoning about theft is likely wrong, or at the very least governed by geography. I can imagine certain places where it is ultra-cool to ride a fixie, and therefore they would be in strong demand. For example, London, Tokyo, probably other cities too. I mean, these things are largely fashion accessories. Also I think buying a bike because it is less likely to get stolen is a recipe for disaster (especially when it gets stolen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you're right in terms of your price analysis though. In the &quot;new&quot; market, a budget of £400 will not buy a good road bike. You might have a chance of finding something if you're wanting a flip-flop, although my flip-flop (a nothing-special Charge Plug) retailed new at around £600 iirc. Secondhand gives you more scope, of course (I got mine off eBay), but you need to know what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention mountain bikes in the title, but not really in the question. The pros/cons of these are pretty much the same as the pros/cons for road bikes, in this context at any rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T11:55:26.433" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T11:55:26.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28908" CreationDate="2015-02-08T20:48:04.140" Score="7" ViewCount="71096" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a question earlier today (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/28895/changing-cassette-from-8-to-10-or-11-to-meet-the-shimano-105-5800-groupset&quot;&gt;Changing cassette from 8 to 10 or 11 to meet the Shimano 105 5800 groupset&lt;/a&gt;) the Op asserts that they would need to change their hub, if they wanted to go from a 10- to 11- speed cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not very clued up on 11-speed systems, was wondering why this is the case? And, presumably, when they say &quot;hub&quot;, they mean just the freehub body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yxALh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example of freehub budy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do they mean something else/more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T21:50:50.197" Title="Special hub requirements for an 11-speed group" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7199" CreationDate="2015-02-08T23:00:47.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm a newbie in the bike world. I had a purchased a Trek Cross-rip bike with semi-slick bike tires 700 x 32c. I got tired of everyone passing me on this one asphalt trail. Several months later I purchased 700 x 23c tires. What a difference! I was able to travel 4-5 miles faster with the narrower width. That's all I know and can contribute. Hope that helps someone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17300" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T23:00:47.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28900" CreationDate="2015-02-08T23:11:01.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the discussion in the comments, I suspect that the rim is deformed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can happen if you hit a pothole or kerb too hard, especially if the tires are not pumped up hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rim is deformed then you may be able to see patches where the brakes have worn the rim more. It's the brakes grabbing on these that create the feedback you are feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not much to be done about it. Some people try to straighten them using a wooden mallet, but the success rate is low. Often the wheel is worse rather than better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid this kind of damage in future try to get your weight off the wheel as it hits the bump, by getting out of the saddle and moving back as the front wheel hits, then moving forward before the back wheel hits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T01:26:33.843" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T01:26:33.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28900" CreationDate="2015-02-08T23:23:14.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rim worn down from age through braking may shudder.  In my experience the rim shuddered more when the tyre was more highly inflated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be tested by clamping the brakes on the bicycle, and turning the wheel to detect uneven deformation when the brakes grip excessively at particular points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deformation in this case will not be immediately obvious to touch or sight.  After testing with the brakes, the deformation should appear as a spreading of the rim at the most worn section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this circumstance the rim will need to be replaced, involving rebuilding the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T23:23:14.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28903" CreationDate="2015-02-09T02:39:16.430" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano/SRAM 11 speed cassettes are wider than 8/9/10 speed ones.  So yes, you need a new, wider freehub body, unless your old one was not very old and used a spacer to fit a 10-speed cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People with non-Shimano brand hubs are less likely to find replacement freehub bodies, it seems, leading to replacement of the whole hub, or even the whole wheel if the old rim isn't worth relacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more on this, read the last question and answer here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/09/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-drivetrain-compatibility-for-10-and-11-speed_301392&quot;&gt;http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/09/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-drivetrain-compatibility-for-10-and-11-speed_301392&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a compatibility chart here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_Spacers_2013_3978.html&quot;&gt;http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_Spacers_2013_3978.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo cassettes are the same width for 9, 10, and 11 speeds, so you don't need to do anything in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T02:39:16.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28903" CreationDate="2015-02-09T03:39:30.513" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you're not clear on road vs mtb, there's two answers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 11 spd road drivetrains Shimano uses a 1.85mm wider hub with the drive side flange closer to the centerline to compensate for the additional width. Using a spacer allows the wheel to be backwards compatible to fit a 10 spd cassette. You can't fit a 11spd freehub in place of a 10spd freehub unless the wheel has been built to accommodate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some hubs are, usually 2012 or later hubs from better brands, are able to be converted.  Others are not. It is different for each brand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 1x11 MTB drive trains SRAM has designed the XD driver which fits a 11 speed cassette but is a different shape and not backwards compatible with 8/9/10 speed cassettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T04:58:18.447" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T04:58:18.447" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2015-02-09T06:34:14.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002HU1ZGE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blood Sweat Gears&lt;/a&gt; is a documentary on Garmin Cycling Team, a good alternative to watching TdF dvds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T06:34:14.990" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-02-09T06:34:14.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28911" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-09T06:54:54.137" Score="2" ViewCount="1135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 26mm bullhorn handlebar but it seems like many stores sell bullhorn brakes that are for 25.4mm bullhorns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this 0.6mm make much of a difference? Would it be okay to use the 25.4mm bullhorn brakes on the 26mm bars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17303" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T14:22:35.200" Title="Can I use 25.4mm bullhorn brakes on a 26mm handlebar?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28895" CreationDate="2015-02-09T07:38:06.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, 8/9/10/11 cassettes have different cog spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have several options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace freehub body to Shimano/SRAM 11 speed compatible, if hub manufacturer provides such an option. It's 1.85mm longer than 8/9/10.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace freehub body with Campagnolo one. The trick is that all 11 speed cassettes are cross compatible, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/07/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-1011-speed-compatibility_337803&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Campy freehub body has same width for 10/11 speeds&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use 10 speed cassette. &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.jmd.net.au/?p=344&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This blog entry&lt;/a&gt; states that works good enough after some derailleur and cable tension adjusment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use 11 speed cassette without one cog and using additional spacer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:38:06.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2015-02-09T08:15:04.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Armstrong_Lie&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Armstrong Lie&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 2009 director Alex Gibney set out to film The Road Back, a documentary on cyclist Lance Armstrong's comeback year after a four-year retirement from the sport. Three years later, on October 2012, a doping investigation led to his lifetime ban from competition and the stripping of his seven Tour de France titles, and the documentary was shelved. On January 14, 2013, three hours after his appearance on Oprah, Armstrong went back to Gibney to set the record straight about his career.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T08:15:04.007" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-02-09T08:15:04.007" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7199" CreationDate="2015-02-09T09:30:10.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not mentioned is rim width - which is just as critical as the issue of wider tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wider tyre on a narrow rim provides comfort and grip but not a lower rolling resistance. I think this was measured in a recent issue of Cyclist magazine (UK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers are now producing rims which are in the range or 21-23mm external width. With a wide rim ie 23mm you could run a 23mm tyre and still benefit from lower rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T09:30:10.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28911" CreationDate="2015-02-09T14:22:35.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you're confusing the clamp diameter with the grip area diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;26 mm is a standard road bike clamp diameter (i.e. where the handlebar attaches to the stemp) and 25.4 mm is a standard mountain bike clamp diameter. Your stem needs to match the clamp diameter. The clamp diameter and stem must match &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The grip area diameters need to match for the brakes (which are 22.2 mm for mountain bike stuff and 23.8 mm for road bike stuff). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bullhorns are typically 23.8 mm grip area, so they can use road bike levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T14:22:35.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="45579" CreationDate="2015-02-09T14:33:51.580" Score="4" ViewCount="1774" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying out the baby seat on my wife's e-bike, it was really easy to fit and remove because her saddle flips up to access the battery.  It's a real pain threading the baby seat over the top of my pannier(s) and under the saddle to fit it on my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW the baby seat is a hamax siesta, seat tube mounted, and slightly fiddly to fit even with rack but no panniers. I can't fit the seat then the panniers - there's no access to fasten the panniers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a flip-up seat post available to fit to a normal bike?  Google finds nothing relevant, only ancient forum threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: Pics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it is flipped up:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/omnix.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;seat flipped up&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in riding position:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lol76.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;seat level&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detail of the mechanism:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MskQs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;close-up&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the standard QR height adjustment is unaffected, and the saddle rails are typical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found out a bit more - apparently there's quite a bit of extra weight (looks like it, plenty of steel in there) and older versions had a tendency to work loose around the hinge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T19:58:03.837" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T10:16:07.587" Title="Are flip saddle posts available" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28917" CreationDate="2015-02-09T14:57:58.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there are no saddles that flip up. There are two standard saddle attachment mechanisms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A single hex key tightens a clamp that hold the saddle rails.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two bolts tighten a clamp that hold the saddle rails.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a couple other configurations, but the intent of the mechanism is always that the saddle is mounted firmly to the seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T14:57:58.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28917" CreationDate="2015-02-09T19:26:58.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the seat and seat post from the bike, install the baby seat, reinsert the seat post, done&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the seat post does not have a quick release, go to the local bike shop and buy one for $5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T19:26:58.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8662" CreationDate="2015-02-09T20:05:27.843" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) It is correct that the glue dries out soon after first use. Many glues does that and the makers do not provide solutions to the problem because it will reduce sales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)All farmaceuticals today are sold with small quatities individual packed (each pill packed separately).&#xA;It would be the easiest thing to do with glue. But see 1). &#xA;Lars Bryndum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17310" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T20:05:27.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2015-02-09T20:12:53.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are into mountain biking at all, I highly recommend any/all of the NWD (New World Disorder) series, and also the films The Collective made.  NWD is pretty much straight up old school bike Pr0n.  Professionals on bikes doing ridiculous things to awesome music.  The collectives movies were a bit more artsy, but very close to the same thing; both sets were well done.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I'd also like to recommend Bang Bang, which was a film that sort of revolved around Aaron Chase and the year he broke his back.  It's very behind the scenes and gave me a very unique perspective on what some of the riders are actually like and how to some extent &quot;the show must go on&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T20:12:53.360" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-02-09T20:12:53.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2015-02-09T21:26:12.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's no Breaking away, but check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0088707/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;American Flyers&lt;/a&gt; too. You've got your Kevin Costner, cycling, iconic scenes, and Russian bogeymen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T21:26:12.373" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-02-09T21:26:12.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-09T22:58:17.810" Score="3" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a city bicycle with an internally geared hub. The problem with it is that all the 3 gears are too small, and I have a few hills around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to tune the gears so that they larger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6150" LastEditorUserId="6150" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T08:44:08.607" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T08:44:08.607" Title="Is it possible to tune a hub gear?" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28923" CreationDate="2015-02-09T23:19:30.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is done by changing the primary gear ratio with your chainring and, if possible, the cog on the hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make a large change or if the your existing chain is sufficiently worn, you'll likely need to get a new chain as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the comments, you need to be careful about making the gearing too small (easy to pedal), as you might end up exceeding the max torque for your hub. It sounds like, however, that you'd like the gear to be larger, not smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T00:49:23.017" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T00:49:23.017" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-09T23:33:10.330" Score="8" ViewCount="23077" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel that my bike frame is slightly too large because I'm stretching out quite a bit even when on the hoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering swapping out my 90mm stem for a 35mm or 40mm stem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pACnx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like these aren't designed for road bikes, but would they still be okay to use considering the clamp diameter is identical to that of my roadie's?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17303" LastActivityDate="2020-12-06T21:32:51.450" Title="Bike is slightly too large, shorten the stem?" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28925" CreationDate="2015-02-10T00:05:16.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a slightly large road bike, which I made a good fit by shortening the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you have a road bike, yet I don't recognise the image you've posted. I would expect a stem on a road bike to look more like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DRjfh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example of a stem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from that, you're proposing quite a large change - I think I shortened mine by about an inch. I don't suggest there's any great technical issue here, but just be aware that a small change in length can make a big difference in terms of the feel of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing to point out (caught me!) is that any computer you might have mounted to the stem....it might all get a bit cramped. But don't let that change your mind if the shorter stem works, its just that you might end up buying a new computer mount as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T00:05:16.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28917" CreationDate="2015-02-10T00:23:16.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, flip up bicycle seats are not common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For (probably) less than $10US, you could get a quick-release seatpost collar so that it's easy to move the seat up or down. Just make sure to mark on the seat post what height you like it at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For over $100US, you could get a &quot;dropper&quot; seatpost (intended for mountain biking) and set one of the lower positions to be the comfortable one. That would be a lot faster than quick-release option, and do much better at getting back to the same seat height setting, but it's a lot more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, you could look into other seat and/or rack options. A trailer made for hauling a kid? A baby seat that goes in front of the rider instead of behind? A longer rack? A rack that sits further back or up or down or something in a way that isn't such a pain? A cargo bike with a really long rack (so there's still room for panniers)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T00:23:16.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28925" CreationDate="2015-02-10T02:55:02.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swapping the stem may make the riding more comfortable, but you may want to look at other things too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horizontal position of the seat - most seats will be able to be adjusted forwards or backwards. But if you change the position of the seat, relative to the cranks, you need to think about how this will affect your stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handlebar width - if the handlebars are too wide you may feel like you are reaching too far forward, when in fact you are reaching too far out. A simple check is to stand across your bike in front of a mirror, put your hands on the hoods, and see how closely your handlebars match the width of your shoulders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame size - it's possible you have a bike that's too big for you. Although this is the most expensive thing to change, after riding a bike like that for a couple of years before finally spending the money on a properly fitted frame, I believe it's worth the money for the extra enjoyment you get from riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14264" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T02:55:02.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28925" CreationDate="2015-02-10T06:54:32.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A relatively cheap way to make the reach shorter without compromising handling is to move grips little closer to you. Applicable on most drop bar handles. Most bicycles have grips set far forward and moving them back 2 centimeters is safe and won't move them up too much. Expenses - new duct tape to fix cables onto place if they are not internal and a screwdriver if you don't have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T00:57:43.303" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T00:57:43.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-10T08:50:30.303" Score="1" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old bicycle that I would like to repair. Basically the chain is always &quot;clicking/jumping&quot; when I pedal. &#xA;I know this is either a worn chain or cog. My question is what worns first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's the chain I might actually give it a try and switch it. If it's the cogs I don't think it's worth the money and I doubt I can switch it myself and I don't want to spend too much money with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6150" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T11:09:35.050" Title="What does usually worn first, the chain or the cog?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21832" CreationDate="2015-02-10T08:51:46.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Parts need a break in time to stretch, flex, and do what they do before they kind of settle in. When I worked at a bikeshop, we told our customers to come in after a month or 2 so that we could go through and get everything tuned up to where it should be after the break in period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only is your situation normal, most bike shops WANT you to bring it back to them, so they can get it running the way it should so you are happy with your purchase. Take it back to the shop and have them tune it up, it should be included in the purchase price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T08:51:46.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28930" CreationDate="2015-02-10T10:03:31.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tricky one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will go through several chains before going through a cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A worn chain can be measured quite easily with a gauge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RuuiN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring wear on a cassette is more difficult. It is usually the middle set of sprockets which wear first - due to their more frequent use. If examined carefully - you may notice the teeth on them thinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T10:03:31.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28930" CreationDate="2015-02-10T11:09:35.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that it is an old bicycle, it is likely that the chain or the cassette (or even chain ring) are worn down to the point that it's causing your symptoms. However, it's also possible that the derailleurs are mal-configured and your gears need to be indexed correctly. It may be worth checking this out too as it's a relatively quick fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out by OraNob, chains generally wear much quicker than cassettes and as a rule of thumb would be replaced more frequently. Chains stretch with use and if left too long can begin causing issues with your cassettes and front chain ring(s). As the teeth don't mesh with the chain properly, the result is a rapid wear of the teeth and will ultimately end up in both needing replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching cassettes is not really much harder than changing your chain, you just need the right tools for the job. You can pick up relatively cheap cassettes from your local bike shop or online, so cost shouldn't really be an issue here. You need a chain whip to keep the cassette / cogs still, and another tool for unscrewing the cassette. These will depend on your make/model of cassette as there are differing standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/how-to-adjust-the-gears-on-your-bike-video-23582/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Adjusting gears on a bicycle&quot;&gt;Indexing bicycle gears&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/how-to-replace-a-bike-cassette-video-18234/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Replacing a bicycle cassette&quot;&gt;Changing a bicycle cassettte&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17159" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T11:09:35.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-10T12:28:28.233" Score="1" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be riding my bicycle from Czech Republic to London this April. Even though I cycle quite frequently, this is my first time I will be doing such a long distance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not doing this for charity, awarness or whatever super meaningful reason (even though if you know some good cause I dont mind to slap a sticker on my jacket...). Simply I got new bike, moved to London and when thinking about how to get it there I thought why not to just ride it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is map of my planned trip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/swa0W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I planned it, it should take 13 days, 1600km, average of 120km a day. I don't think I am aiming for a crazy goal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To the question:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To all of you who done some long distance around europe, what would you recommend for a gear to take with me? I have vague idea about what I want to take, but I probably missed something so better to ask.&#xA;Would you recommend bringing tent and a sleeping bag? I am not against sleeping outdoor at all, but after all we are in europe and not middle of sahara, I think I will always be able to find somewhere to sleep, eat etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice from experienced long rider would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Bike I am going to be riding&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ibgWJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kellys TNT 30&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kellysbike.com/INT/bikes-2014/mountain/hardtail-29/tnt-30#.VNoFtC7eKzU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;More info about the bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike comes with very thick tires, I will be changing for thinner flatter tyres. something around 1.95 should be comfortable enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17313" LastEditorUserId="17313" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T13:22:05.790" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T14:32:53.710" Title="What to prepare for a long distance ride (1600km)" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;europe&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-02-10T14:55:11.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28951" CreationDate="2015-02-10T12:40:20.680" Score="0" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be moving to a semi-urban area in a few months. I'd love to buy a bike to be able to travel around the town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to spend too much money. I'd say the best &amp;lt; $300 can get me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of bike should I get, and what would be the best way to go about this? Visit a local bike shop? ebay? Craigslist? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17314" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T01:31:52.297" Title="What first bike to buy?" Tags="&lt;city&gt;&lt;upgrade-or-new-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-02-12T00:01:43.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-10T14:15:29.740" Score="4" ViewCount="4076" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I wrap my fingers around my roadie's headset, I'm able to 'rotate' some parts of it freely around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should this be happening? If it should not be happening, what is causing this and is it dangerous? The bolt that attaches the stem to the headset near the topcap (not sure if that's the proper way to describe it) is tightened, so it won't be due to a loose bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17303" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T18:28:32.323" Title="Should I be able to 'manually' rotate the headset?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28943" CreationDate="2015-02-10T14:17:35.530" Score="8" ViewCount="1041" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got myself a &lt;em&gt;B'twin Triban 500&lt;/em&gt;; this is my first road bike, and my second bike overall, so it's fair to assume I'm as newbie as can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake levers came with the following sticker, and I'm very intrigued by their meaning — especially since the brakes are a little out of reach from my ridiculously tiny hands, and this may be vaguely related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8uljv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shifters with three different angles, 0°, 4°, and 8°, corresponding to a movement of 0mm, 7.5mm, and 14mm respectively.  Above the drawing of the levers are three schematics, showing some notches and knobs.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17318" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T14:48:59.677" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T14:48:59.677" Title="New road bike comes with cryptic tag on the brake/shift lever" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28934" CreationDate="2015-02-10T14:32:53.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took part in a charity ride from Scotland to Italy in June last year, and that was made a lot easier with the use of a support team to help carry everything. Since you are going it alone, you need to consider quite a lot of things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Directions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's fine planning a route, but they often don't go to plan. Always be prepared to make alterations at the last minute. A detailed road map of the area / GPS device is essential for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Know roughly where you're going to end up at the end of each day. Plan ahead and maybe pre-book your accommodation. Most places allow you to reserver a room for free and pay when you leave, so it comes at no initial cost. If you don't make it to a given town, find somewhere else to stay. You suggest camping in a tent - although feasible, bear in mind the amount of kit you may already be carrying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nutrition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Undertaking long mileage takes its toll on your energy levels, so its important to replace the calories and replenish water loss. You can carry sandwhiches or even pop into cafés, but another alternative is the use of energy gels and flapjacks etc. These are easy to carry and provide enough fuel to keep you going.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hydration is really important, so carrying water or some other hydrating fluid is essential. Try mixing it with energy drink powder to hydrate and keep your energy stores up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spares / Tools&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long-distance cycling takes it's toll on your bike, but also increases the likelihood of hitting a problem along the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carry a set of bike tools such as a chain link tool, spanners, hex keys to help you make adjustments and repairs along the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inner tubes, tyre levers and a puncture repair kit (and a pump!) are also vital. You can always find a petrol station or another cyclist to help, but be prepared and be self-sufficient with repairs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clothing&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a variety of clothing to help with the different weather conditions. There's nothing worse than getting into wet clothes when you could have had a dry set to hand.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waterproofs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot-weather gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Base layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I think of anything else I will add it to the list, but these are some of the main things to consider that I can think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17159" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T14:32:53.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28941" CreationDate="2015-02-10T14:44:01.473" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are referring to pad spacers. They essentially increase or decrease the amount of motion you have when moving the brake levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See page 16 of the following PDF for a better diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-ST0001-03-ENG.pdf&quot;&gt;Shimano Brake Levers User Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17159" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T14:44:01.473" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28940" CreationDate="2015-02-10T15:40:20.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As said - should not be rotating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple check - &#xA;Pull the front brake &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; to lock the front wheel and hold.&#xA;Now rock the bike back and forth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a &quot;click&quot; pushing the bike forward / backward - it is likely the headset is lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say the headset allen key nut is tight and compressing the headset? But how tall is the steerer tube - or put another way - how close is the top of the steerer tube to the top of the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is very near level - you are missing a spacer - and now matter how tight the nut is - it will not provide enough compression / tightness of the headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T15:40:20.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28940" CreationDate="2015-02-10T17:58:26.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely you are describing a spacer, but it is not clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejktK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;headset diagram&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spacers should not spin. If they do, it's a sign that the bearings have little or no pre-load and the head set will be loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple possible causes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pinch bolts were not loose when the top cap was tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are missing a spacer.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you want to lower the bar, you move a spacer from below to above. Someone may have removed a spacer to lower the bar without replacing it above the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Internal view of head assembly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7QtZ4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Internal view of head assembly&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: There must be a gap between the top of the steerer tube (fork) and the top cap. If not, the cap bolt cannot pre-load the bearings and a spacer needs to be added. It can be added above the stem if desired. Alternately the steerer can be cut shorter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to fix:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Should take no more than a few minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back off the cap bolt a couple of turns. Loosen the pinch bolts on the stem until it can easily rotate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the top cap bolt (not too much). This sets the bearing pre-load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the pinch bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this does not work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave the pinch bolts tight and remove the top cap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check for a gap between the top of the stem/top spacer and the top of the steerer.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there's no gap, go to your LBS and get a spacer or two (a few dollars at most).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a gap, and the spacers below the stem are still turning, something is very wrong. Check that the threads on the bolt and star nut are not the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Headsets/Headset_Overhaul&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this wikibook&lt;/a&gt; for instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2021-02-01T18:28:32.323" LastActivityDate="2021-02-01T18:28:32.323" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28925" CreationDate="2015-02-10T20:22:03.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get also get a significant change in position by getting a different set of bars. I would look for various handlebars labeled &quot;short reach or compact&quot;. Almost all bars these days have listed the drop and reach. If your current bars are on the long end of the scale, switching bars might solve your problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going to a stem that short is going to have lot's of odd effects on the handling of the bike. For a road bike with drop bars, my experience is that 80mm or so is about the shortest&#xA;stem you want to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T20:22:03.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28886" CreationDate="2015-02-10T20:27:10.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick up the shuddering wheel(s) and spin them to make they are &quot;free&quot;, i.e., no brake contact when the lever is not depressed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that your wheel axle is securely seated in the dropouts. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check that your hub is tight -- pick up the end of the bike with the shuddering brake, push side-to-side on the top of the wheel. You should feel no play or a minuscule amount.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the brake rotor for trueness. Spin the wheel, looking in where the rotor goes between the pads. Is the rotor staying in pretty much the same point between the pads, or going from side to side? Alternatively, or additionally, you can spin the wheel and slowly depress the brake, to see if the pad-rotor contact happens first at just one &quot;high&quot; spot or if it happens more or less evenly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Center the caliper. Loosen the caliper position bolts, grab the brake lever, and then tighten the position bolts. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's what I'd do to start. With more information I (or someone else) might be able to help more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T20:27:10.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28787" CreationDate="2015-02-10T20:36:42.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it the same link every time? There could be a tight/sticky link in the chain from when it was installed. I'm not sure why that would have come up after removing/replacing the wheel, but it's worth checking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark or otherwise make note the problem link&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take the wheel off or push it in the dropout to put slack in the&#xA;chain&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;See if that link is difficult to bend&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is difficult to bend, then set your thumbs on it, push it side-to-side, quite&#xA;    firmly but not with all your might, until it becomes less sticky&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T20:36:42.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28936" CreationDate="2015-02-10T23:14:05.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest first deciding what kind of bike you'd like. Road vs. Mountain vs. Hybrid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road - more aggressive positioning (lean more forward) for aerodynamic benefits. Thinner tires.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mountain - more upright, sturdy/heavy. Wider tires for offroad&#xA;Hybrid/Cross - something in between. Usually road type bike with clearance for slightly wider tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case I would suggest a used 90s steel mountain/hybrid bike. There are millions of them around and all over craiglist. Make sure the bike fits well (ie. you can adjust the seat/handlebars sufficiently to be comfortable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike such as this (mountain/hybrid) should also have lots of eyelets for attaching fenders/racks/baskets to carry stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Craigslist is a good way but if you're not very familiar with bikes you should try to find a friend who can help. That way they can go with you to look at any used bikes and make sure it's decent. If that's not possible, hopefully a local bike shop can help and not try to up sell you. There are many, many used bikes in your price range so don't let a shop try to talk you into a new bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to ask local bike riders you run into what they like about their bikes and let them point out stuff. I don't think there's a serious bike rider who wouldn't spend hours discussing bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13963" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T23:14:05.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28936" CreationDate="2015-02-10T23:16:15.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has gone a few hours with no answer so will give it a try. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider spend too much.  There is the purchase cost and cost of maintenance. &#xA;Low end bikes commonly refereed to as BSO (bicycle shaped objects) don't last long and are expensive to service.  With a BSO you get custom (as in bad can't replace) components.  Many bike shops will not even work on a BSO.  You need to get up into named brand components (e.g. Shimano and Sram).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looked used and less movable parts (no suspension and no gears).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My trash (as in lock it on the street) commuter is a bike is a single speed name brand I got used for $400 and was $1200 new.  Mile for mile it is as cheap as you are going to get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New I know an $800 bike is way more than $300 but if you are going to ride it more than a few hundred miles it is cheaper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trick is find the guy / girl that bought an $800 bike and did not ride it and is selling it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yes people want to get 60% to 80% of what they paid but used you can get it for 30%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minus the lights and tires this is a bike I got used for $400.  Mile for mile I don't think you can do better.  I have put 4000 miles on this bike and two set of tires and two chains.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/adVBc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;$400&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T01:31:52.297" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T01:31:52.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35344" CreationDate="2015-02-11T10:52:07.783" Score="1" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder has anyone had any experience using the Cateye Strada Smart in Mirror mode and uploading the ride directly to Strava. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am having problems with the data on Strava being different than on the Cateye Atlas site and am wondering if anyone has solved this problem already?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.... :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="518" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T04:27:43.060" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T04:27:43.060" Title="Using a Cateye Strada Smart and Strava" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;strava&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-11T11:52:01.300" Score="1" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When ζ = 1, there is a double root γ (defined above), which is real. The system is said to be critically damped. A critically damped system converges to zero as fast as possible without oscillating (although overshoot can occur).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping#Critical_damping_.28.CE.B6_.3D_1.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that for constant rider+bike weight, there is optimal setting for the fron and rear shock? I had an impression that the terrain and style of riding affect the decision of settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if there is optimal damping, does it mean the rebound and compresison damping should be equal (as in the simple model, discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping#Example:_mass.E2.80.93spring.E2.80.93damper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;)? If not, is this because the linear time-invariant model of second order is unable to represent the cyclist as a system adequately? Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT (clarifications):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hmmm, so let's ignore pedaling efficiency. The question still remains relevant.    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optimal as in absorbs terrain irregularities best, resulting in smoothest (closest to straight line) trajectory of the rider.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T16:07:04.287" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T17:23:55.600" Title="Does there exist optimal damping setting for all terrains?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28956" CreationDate="2015-02-11T14:44:04.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without digging too deep into the physics of damped motion now, I say &quot;there isn't an optimal damping setting for all riders and terrains&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's consider first the critical damping case as defined in the wikipedia article. This is based on the case that you &quot;excite&quot; your system (i.e. set it into motion) once and then leave it alone until it has calmed down again due to damping. The best approximation in real life cycling would an isolated pothole or curb on an otherwise smooth road: once you've hit that obstacle, your suspension compresses and then returns back to its initial state, if there is no second bump during the time it takes the suspension to relax again. As the suspension is only uncompressing here, it's also only &lt;em&gt;rebound damping&lt;/em&gt; that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what happens now as we go to a rougher surface where the time between bumps is shorter than the time constant of the damping, i.e. the time it takes the suspension to return into its initial state? Lets say the first bump you hit fully compresses the fork and as it has relaxed halfway back you hit another bump of the same strength which will set your fork again to full compression (if it could it would maybe even compress further). On the second bump your fork will only give you half of its travel as it is still halfway compressed from the first one. now consider an even rougher surface where the suspension can only uncompress 10% of its travel between bumps and you (hopefully) can easily see that sooner or later you will ride with your suspension nearly fully compressed, leaving you with no suspension at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To overcome this, you can &lt;em&gt;reduce rebound&lt;/em&gt; damping which enables your suspension to uncompress faster at the cost of overshooting. Therefore your suspension gets more wobbly but it can react better to frequent bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Compression damping&lt;/em&gt; comes into play when the suspension compresses (surprise?). A stronger compression damping reduces the speed the suspension compresses which is also the reason why most higher priced forks and shocks realize their lockout mechanism through high compression damping – this way you still have &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; suspension left for the really hard bumps. A stronger compression damping on your rough surface also means that your suspension is using less travel for the same sizes bumps, however, this time it is not converging towards the maximum compression level but tends to stay at &lt;em&gt;sag&lt;/em&gt; level, i.e. the compression it has under rider weight. As a consequence, you can &quot;save&quot; a bit of travel for the really hard bumps if you raise your compression damping at the cost of a harder riding experience and a slower reaction of your suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T14:44:04.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-11T16:37:25.010" Score="1" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be moving in the near future from a wide open rural area with open, expansive country roads to a more suburban area with traffic issues but a few offroad trails available for riding. My question -- and probably a silly one -- is: is it at all recommended to outfit a separate set of wheels with CX tires for my road frame for trail riding at a fraction of the cost of a new CX bike or am I putting my road frame at unnecessary risk trying to save some money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not imagining I'm going to be getting into legit mountain biking (just yet) and only ride for personal fitness and the enjoyment of it.  I've seen threads here asking the opposite (CX for Road), but nothing this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17329" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T18:28:28.073" Title="Road bike frame for offroad/cx wheels" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28958" CreationDate="2015-02-11T16:48:03.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, if your road frame is an out-and-out road bike - I would say you will be faced with several issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strength of your frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only will this stress your frame - it may also fatigue the frame. And may cause sudden and catastrophic failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyre clearance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most road frames will not take a tyre greater than 28mm. Some no more than 25mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;comfort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seating position and reach could be altered to make more comfortable - but it will always be a compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Geometry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bikes have different geometry to CX bikes. Lower bottom bracket offers lower clearance, steeper head angle makes the ride more twitchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T16:48:03.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28958" CreationDate="2015-02-11T17:20:24.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be better off with one of the new bikes coming out with &quot;gravel&quot; or &quot;all-road&quot; geometry and clearance for ~40c tires. They're intended for the type of riding you describe. Current examples include the Raleigh Tamland and Willard, Salsa Warbird, All-City Space Horse, and Kona Rove. These bikes tend to have lower bottom brackets and longer wheelbases, giving them better comfort and handling on and off pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T17:20:24.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28956" CreationDate="2015-02-11T17:23:55.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry but I think your definition optimal is flawed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Optimal as in absorbs terrain irregularities best, resulting in&#xA;  smoothest (closest to straight line) trajectory of the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike is not a closed system model as shown in that wikipedia link.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A bike does not return to a static 0. &#xA;0 is relative to the ground and my elevation changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am riding on a flat surface and hit some small bumps then yes 0 is the same.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I start to climb a hill my trajectory must change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those models in the link assume X (displacement) is not bounded, C is a constant, and 0 does not change. &#xA;They also assume a displacement X and then X is released and no other force until is comes back to zero.  On a bike bumps have bumps.  You don't have the luxury of getting back to 0 before the next bump and 0 changes.  And I don't want C to be a constant.  As I get to the bounded displacement of a shock I want C to get bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To go from a closed system has a critical dampening to therefore a bike has a single optimal damping is a bit of a stretch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also don't see the purpose of mathematical model for a bike. You still have to build it. I don't see a digital shock with sensors any time soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T17:23:55.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28898" CreationDate="2015-02-11T18:00:02.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had been communing on a fixie for a couple of years after switching from a hardtail mountain bike. It felt so fast and wonderful at first. But I ended up getting a road bike after a while and then loved communiting on it. I have since put a rack on the fixie and put a 3 speed internal gear hub on the back and it really serves me well. Sometimes coming home I was just so tired from work and then if it was windy, I really wanted some gears. 3 seems like the perfect amount for me now. Also very low maintenance because it really behaves like a single speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="790" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T18:00:02.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28958" CreationDate="2015-02-11T18:28:28.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the trails and the type of riding and how big of tires you can put on the road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on frame and brakes you are probably limited to 28mm or 30mm. &#xA;Still a lot better than 25mm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are dealing with sand and/or big sharp rocks then 30mm is not enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for mud just don't ride mud.  Mud need excess clearance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you might as well just go with touring type tire and give yourself a bigger footprint to deal with traffic issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not going to be CX bike - the best you can do is beef it up.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What I am saying is you probably can't beef it up so much that stops being a valid road bike. &#xA;Ride it and get a feel for if you want to get a second bike. &#xA;You may decide you want to leave your road road and get a second mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not go with a separate set of wheels. &#xA;Your brakes will probably not take a wider CX rim so you are just going to get a beefier road wheel. &#xA;A beefy set of wheels is going to be $400 and you should not be riding a road frame that hard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a used CX.  Season just ended and you can find some good deals.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And CX varies a bit - a pure race may only take 35mm tires. &#xA;Get one that will take 38mm or larger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't rule out a mtn bike - you can find some decent used mtn bikes for $400. &#xA;You can throw $400 into your road bike and it is still not going to be a good trail bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T18:28:28.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-11T18:38:25.577" Score="0" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace rear derailleur that was broken in an accident.  The derailleur is Suntour with lettering stamped on inside - Maeda Ind. VIA HB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I find a compatible replacement?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17330" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-02-15T21:35:27.550" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T21:35:36.007" Title="How do I find a compatible replacement for my rear derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-11T21:15:53.203" Score="1" ViewCount="1924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought a Masi fixie riser that comes with painted unmachined rims and rim brakes.This does not seem safe.Is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14365" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T06:06:12.500" Title="Is it safe to use painted unmachine rims with rim brakes?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-02-20T19:55:09.340" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28975" CreationDate="2015-02-11T21:30:07.887" Score="0" ViewCount="4949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to transport my bike a fair distance (500km) and I would like to spend $150 or less on the transport. I currently have a strap mounted trunk rack but I worry about it loosening over the trip. I do have a roof rack (stock) and a hitch (also stock.) Which would be the best option for securely transporting my bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12662" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T21:44:03.030" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T10:57:17.907" Title="What is the most secure bike rack for long distance travel?" Tags="&lt;transportation&gt;&lt;car-rack&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2015-02-12T18:49:35.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28968" CreationDate="2015-02-11T22:45:39.323" Score="3" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been cycling my whole life, and for about a year I have been doing 25km a day, without any problems. I got new &lt;strong&gt;Vittoria Rubino&lt;/strong&gt; 23s tires a few weeks ago and I had no problems for 3 weeks since, then I have had two crashes in the last two days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My front wheel skidded in a pretty slow corner (I wasn't leaning much in either of the cases). Fortunately, a few bruises and cuts, without any cars behind me at the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire pressure was &lt;strong&gt;110psi front, 115psi back&lt;/strong&gt;. I was just wondering whether anyone could give me some tips or share their experiences with Rubino's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, I really appreciate any feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17332" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T05:58:02.353" Title="Front tire skidding, resulted in a crash, any advice?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28967" CreationDate="2015-02-11T23:13:07.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently ride on Rubino &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vittoria.com/tire/rubino-pro-slick/&quot;&gt;Pro Slick&lt;/a&gt; tires, and have used various Vittoria tires for decades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Vittoria &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vittoria.com/tire/rubino/&quot;&gt;Rubino&lt;/a&gt; tires you are using have similar wet grip to what I use (dry grip will be the same). The pressures you quote are good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the impression that both incidents occurred in the same corner. If that is the case then I would strongly suspect oil on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cornering with under inflated tires, they give a characteristic sickening lurch to the side, usually accompanied by a scrubbing noise, and then they let go. This kind of crash can rob your confidence. Just take it easy, be &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; careful on that corner (or avoid it), and get well soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T23:19:51.723" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T23:19:51.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16352" CreationDate="2015-02-12T01:18:58.967" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in a similiar position. I can stand over the cross-bar alright but its a bit of a stretch to the handle bars. I adjusted the seat and that felt alright. I just tried reversing the seat post so that the curve goes forward. I'll be cautious. The seat points up more than I would like but my initial impression is that this will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also thought about bending the seatpost - I'll consider this but its not easy to recover from this and would make the bike difficult for a 2nd owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion would be to put 1/2 inch or 1 inch 'lifts' (would or plastic) on the pedals to shorten the reach. Likely using raised shoes may be more practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17333" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T01:18:58.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28971" CreationDate="2015-02-12T02:06:38.163" Score="3" ViewCount="1761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fed up with cheap allen keys.  I've bought a few from local hardware stores, but a 5mm is usually way off, and I end up rounding off the key, or the bolt.  I've thought about buying this parks allen key:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B005R638TC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Allen-Wrench-4-5mm/dp/B005R638TC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1423706361&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=parks+allen+key&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has 5 star review from 5 customers at the moment, but I'm still wary.  Anyone have any experience with it?  Or is it just junk that they slapped a parks tool sticker on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if anyone has any advice on allen keys from their experience I'd love to hear.  Is it worth paying for Snap-on keys, or something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to hear others have this problem too, and it's not just me that can't loosen or tighten a brake lever without rounding something off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10649" LastEditorUserId="43808" LastEditDate="2020-05-23T19:32:06.290" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T19:32:06.290" Title="Is the Park Tool Allen Wrench going to strip out bolts?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28970" CreationDate="2015-02-12T02:44:36.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had a problem with Allen keys rounding. Using the correct size, using them correctly (Inserting them fully and not letting them slip out the bolt) and not using too much torque for the bolt size means even cheap Allen keys will last a lifetime. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bolt head has rusted or has gunk in it, you sometimes cannot easily get the Allen key in all the way. In this case cleaning the hole is required. Abusing the bolt/allen key by only inserting it part way is the most likely cause of problems. Workshop quality tools will survive abuse such as this (although it's more likely the bolt won't).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are having problems rounding the Allen keys, workshop quality tools to likely just move this problem to the bolt, making it a much bigger problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="41182" LastEditDate="2020-05-22T03:55:43.937" LastActivityDate="2020-05-22T03:55:43.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28970" CreationDate="2015-02-12T03:54:28.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I have found allen wrenches that have a ball end to generally be of higher quality and less likely to round off. My experience is that generally the wrench fails long before the bolt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wrench gets rounded off, you need to stop using it ASAP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing lot's of your own bike work, it's worth investing in a set of &#xA;T-handled allen wrenches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gV2XP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bondhus Allen wrenchs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T03:54:28.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-12T09:31:11.007" Score="6" ViewCount="4746" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spokes in a wheel are (shall) be loaded always in tension. Seems like a simple rope of steel strings would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, uneven spoke tension can lead to lots of problems (among which loose spokes, broken spokes, cracked rim holes). A single strand of thread, passing through all spoke holes in a star-like fashion would eliminate uneven tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And even if such a wheel isn't technically superior to current designs, it would be interesting. People throw thousands at purchasing 3-spoke wheels, grouped spoke wheels and whatnot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T18:50:17.660" Title="Why no wheels with rope instead of spokes?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28973" CreationDate="2015-02-12T10:25:59.863" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mavic has made some wheels like you describe, more or less.  They're called &quot;R-Sys&quot; and they have aramid (Kevlar) spokes surrounded by carbon fiber sheaths.  Here's an exploded view:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/miioF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mavic R-Sys exploded view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more details about that, see the page the image is from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-105.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-001/FAIL-105.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More seriously, yes, you could make wheels with &quot;rope&quot; spokes only.  Why do the Mavic ones have the carbon sheaths then?  I would speculate that the carbon acts as armor for the aramid fibers, which must never be nicked or they will fail.  The carbon also stabilizes the whole arrangement, reducing lateral flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your notion that spoke tension would always be even if continuous fibers were used, I'm not so sure.  The problem is that to achieve self-evening tension you would need to allow the fibers to run freely through some turning points.  And if they run freely they will abrade rather quickly if they actually move at all.  So you're at an impasse: either the fibers move and wear out prematurely (and perhaps lead to collapse of the wheel even sooner because of unstable geometry), or the fibers in fact do not move and you have the same tensioning concerns as with conventional wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, consider that spokes are thin and behave not like rods or struts so much as wire.  So in a way we are already riding your wheels of the future today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T10:25:59.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28966" CreationDate="2015-02-12T10:57:17.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most stable and secure racks are the ones which mount directly to the vehicle at hard points, such as a trailer hitch (for rear racks) or door frames (for roof racks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racks which use fabric straps attached to hooks can move around a bit more, and if they are not very well made, they can loosen over time.  This problem is made worse by the fact that most cheap racks use fabric straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the best is if you can somehow mount your bike inside your vehicle.  If you drive a small car this won't work, and even some rack mounts may not be viable if your car has only two doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I prefer roof racks, and have driven up to four bicycles at a time on multiple cars using them for hundreds of kilometers without stopping, at speeds up to 125 kph.  The main problems tend to be (1) the removed front wheels spinning in their separate mounts (easily corrected by small straps which some racks now come with), (2) reduced fuel efficiency and increased wind noise, and (3) the possibility that you will wreck your bikes by driving into a garage or other low-clearance area.  All of those problems are reduced on rear-mounted racks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your car has a trailer hitch, consider a rack that mounts in it.  These can be very secure, low-noise, and easy to install and remove (both rack and bikes).  The main downside is that accessing your trunk becomes less convenient (but still not as bad as with rear racks which attach using straps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T10:57:17.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14857" CreationDate="2015-02-12T11:59:15.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was irritated buy the rattling cooling disc as well. I pressed small pieces of rubber between the disc and the spokes and it stopped the rattling without impairing the brake's function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17337" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T11:59:15.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28970" CreationDate="2015-02-12T14:03:19.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are referring to getting to the brake lever bolt from an angle because it is behind the cable then that is when the ball end comes in handy  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZjXD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hex bolt in back of brake lever behind cable&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bolt is dirty the ball end also penetrates a little better but cleaning the bolt is the better path&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kgcQW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hex ball end&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the regular end when you can come in straight for more contact area   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even straight on I will use the round end when the bolt is loose as it is faster - you don't have to be perfectly straight on &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T17:52:20.647" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T17:52:20.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28980" CreationDate="2015-02-12T14:15:04.240" Score="0" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute all Winter long on my Winter bike and I realize I don't use many gears.  The back derailleur gets jammed with salt, dirt and other debris.  I'd like to build a bike with fix gear at the back and two at the front.  Any ideas, suggestion or comments?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17338" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:20:25.307" Title="Winter deraillers" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-02-12T14:43:04.690" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28979" CreationDate="2015-02-12T14:20:25.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rear wheel with an internal 3 speed hub (you can get more gears if you like) should solve the problem you are having.  The gearing system is kept enclosed and away from salt and dirt. It's a little expensive as you basically have to buy a new rear wheel, or relace your old one, but this is the best way to fix it. That or go completely single speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:20:25.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28970" CreationDate="2015-02-12T15:15:41.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All other things being equal, T-shaped Allen wrenches will work better than L-shaped Allen wrenches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say T-shaped Allen wrenches, I'm talking about wrenches like these: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iJTlv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tool PH-2&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as well as the 3-way hex wrenches like the one you mention:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ksphu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park Tool AWS-15&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because the shape of these tools allows you to exert pressure from directly above the bolt rather than from the side. Exerting pressure from the side adds a lever element which can cause the tool to slip. Pressure from directly above the bolt keeps the tool held fast without that side leverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not to say that L-shaped wrenches don't have their place. They're typically much easier to get into tighter places. As others have mentioned, high quality L-shaped Allen wrenches will often have a rounded head at one end, which makes it easier to get at bolts from an angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/efxGf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rounded Allen wrenches&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems counter-intuitive, but these rounded heads actually hold a bolt &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; well. I can't recall ever having one slip (with the exceptions of already stripped bolts and/or user stupidity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as Park Tools go, they are well respected in the bicycle industry as offering the highest quality tools available. That's not to say they're the only game in town. There are lots of companies that offer high quality Allen wrenches. If you don't trust Park Tools for whatever reason, buy your Allen wrenches from any high quality source that you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; trust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T15:15:41.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28973" CreationDate="2015-02-12T16:12:16.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A single cable as you suggest would mean bad things happening for a single failure. Although lightweight bikes will always push the spoke count as low as possible they can still handle a broken spoke without automatically crashing. You also don't have enough degrees of freedom to dish a rear wheel even if you assume the wheel is self truing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead you consider replacing each spoke of a conventional setup with a cable you add the weight and part count of the fasteners (offsetting any saving in the spokes themselves). You still need the same tensile strength and there's no need for them to be flexible so a single thick strand is no worse than a cable of thinner strands so you're back to the same weight assuming steel. Plus fasteners. You might shave a little weight off in total using something like spectra rope but you would have to ensure no risk of fraying at the fixing points. To overcome all this optimally you'd need to redesign the hub and rim. That's expensive and reduces your market. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are always titanium spokes for those worried about weight. These would retrofit easily on a standard wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be nice to see an old set of wheels rebuilt with cable for demonstration purposes -- you wouldn't want to go fast but you could probably ride on strong fishing line with one piece for each side of the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T16:12:16.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9790" CreationDate="2015-02-12T18:56:19.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, the fundamental skills - position, cornering*, braking, cadence are easily overlooked - one can go for years without realizing they are doing some of those wrong. They have been explained in the top answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in my opinion these are some drills, that are useful for the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/990/how-to-do-a-track-stand/1423#1423&quot;&gt;Track stand&lt;/a&gt; - useful for slippery surfaces e.g. ice or wet stones, also for waiting at traffic lights.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bunny hop - useful for clearing obstacles on the tail, such as logs or stones, and for hopping curbs.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Endo - essential for learning front brake technique.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheelie - teaches the limits of traction when pedaling up steep slopes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D620vkLvSOI&amp;amp;t=2m33s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Roll-off and drop-off&lt;/a&gt; - essential for any riding that incorporates descents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* Actually, here is a nice drill for cornering that sprung to my mind once. It's quite beginner stuff, unfortunately. Find a smooth grassy field, that you are not scared to fall on. Possibly put on your favourite protection equipment. Now speed up and attempt a sharp turn (at least 90 degrees while keeping your weight over the rear tire. Repeat while weighting the front tire. If you are not bored yet, you can try different combinations of braking, dabbing, leaning etc. The moral of the story is to keep you weight at least 50% front - for me this results in smallest cornering radius. &lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T15:12:06.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28973" CreationDate="2015-02-12T19:12:39.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spinergy has something like that - though not with a single rope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spinergy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20&amp;amp;products_id=84&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.spinergy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20&amp;amp;products_id=84&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually it's not extra light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17339" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T19:12:39.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-12T21:12:42.850" Score="0" ViewCount="3020" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear (disc) wheel currently has a lot of movement in it. I have been riding it like this for 18 months due to intending to replace the rim (has been dented) rather than simply getting it trued. The movement has worsened but nothing else really noticeable has changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am now considering what are the impacts of ignoring a buckled wheel and continuing to ride. These must sit on a spectrum from ride comfort through to catastrophic failure but I don't understand what they are. There also in my mind be an impact on ride speed or additional energy expended by I can't quantify these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So simply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the impact of a buckled wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2015-02-15T23:23:16.140" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T22:44:59.370" Title="What is the impact of a buckled wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28985" CreationDate="2015-02-12T21:44:43.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wobble  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wobble is just plain bothersome. &#xA;I had one so bad I could not even ride no hands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not going to fix itself. &#xA;The wobble creates forces that make the wobble bigger.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly wobble uses energy. &#xA;I don't need to quantify it to know I don't want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T21:44:43.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28985" CreationDate="2015-02-12T22:14:25.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a disc brake, it depends on your clearance.  I buckled a front wheel once on a pump track that was so bad it couldn't spin because the worst section rubbed against the fork stanchions. On a rim brake, if the bend is any more than the gap on your brakes, it will also rub.  So, depending on the clearance you have on your fork or frame, there may not be a difference at all in how disabling it is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any bike has X amount of clearance and if the bend in the rim is any more than that clearance, your wheels won't roll.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T22:14:25.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-12T23:29:25.530" Score="0" ViewCount="1126" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5gD4y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkKV6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second hand MTB frame has no decal on it. To me it looks like a downhill frame. I was told it's an Orange but now that I look at it I don't know how to tell. The serial number is JSG0111.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17341" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-02-14T16:14:42.523" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T21:28:51.970" Title="What make and model is this MTB with no decal (pictured)?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28985" CreationDate="2015-02-13T00:55:02.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on how extreme the wobble is.  It takes very little lack of trueness to cause rim brakes to drag, but in a pinch you can usually disconnect the cable or some such and still manage (assuming the brakes on the other wheel are OK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, the wobble of wheel is distracting and will make the bike unpleasant and tiring to ride at high speed.  Also, of course, it impacts the stability of the bike, making falls more likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wobble gets worse, the wheel can begin to rub against the fork or stays, and it gets unrideable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One does need to be wary if, say, a single spoke is broken, causing wobble.  This situation puts additional stress on other spokes, making a second failure more likely, and a second failed spoke in the wrong place could cause the wheel to become suddenly quite &quot;loopy&quot;, resulting in a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T00:55:02.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28700" CreationDate="2015-02-13T03:33:28.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The balls are 2mm in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know?  Well, I found a bearing supply shop, and asked them to see some of their smallest balls.  I bought one 2mm ball and one 3/32&quot; (2.38mm) ball for all of 20 cents.  The 3/32&quot; ball was slightly too large to fit in the hole, so I tried the 2mm one, and bingo--a perfect fit.  Putting the QR mechanism back together is a pain because the tiny 2mm spring wants to eject the ball again, but with the brake facing straight down it's doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T03:33:28.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-13T10:32:03.120" Score="2" ViewCount="3061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently converted into 2spd crankset so I've bought a new 2spd road lever. I'm really struggling now to tune the front derailleur. Could you please assist me by answering this questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why the shifter does 2 clicks instead of 1 when you go up? Is that normal? It's 2spd shifter isn't it supposed to have only 1 click? And at the same time ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I do one click up with the shifter the derailleur moves but always seems like not far enough so I need go up for another click, which leads to ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I try to go down the gears and I release the shifter that was clicked 2 times it goes all 2 click at once and the derailleur makes this ugly very loud clutch back to the first gear. It doesn't sound right at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell me what am I doing wrong here? I guess I'm missing something very important here, but I don't know exactly what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched bunch of youtube instructions on how to properly tune a front derailleur, but I still facing the same problem over and over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance, and please ask if the question is not clear enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T02:49:18.273" Title="Road Front Derailleur / Shifter Tuning" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28994" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-13T12:08:36.407" Score="0" ViewCount="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's Some Pics Of Forks SR Suntour V3s&#xA;!&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkKV6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;![enter image description ![&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EkKV6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SR Suntour XCM V3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17341" LastEditorUserId="17341" LastEditDate="2015-02-13T23:15:20.563" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T23:15:20.563" Title="my Bike Make &amp; Model" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-02-13T17:33:11.867" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-13T19:38:56.090" Score="0" ViewCount="1773" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title says all of it.  A friend and I were trying to determine if it is legal to ride on sidewalks.  Georgia has clear law explaining what cyclists should do on the road (basically obey all the rules cars do), but I can't find any direction regarding sidewalks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17349" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T21:08:56.080" Title="Is it legal to ride on sidewalks in Georgia?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28996" CreationDate="2015-02-13T21:08:56.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, I decided to look this up.  It appears that cycling on the sidewalk is not legal in Georgia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.intownbicycles.com/bicycle-faqs/bicycle-rules-of-the-road&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.intownbicycles.com/bicycle-faqs/bicycle-rules-of-the-road&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gahighwaysafety.org/docs/gabicyclelawenforcementguide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gahighwaysafety.org/docs/gabicyclelawenforcementguide.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://georgiabikes.org/index.php/resources/35/76-ga-bicycle-laws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://georgiabikes.org/index.php/resources/35/76-ga-bicycle-laws&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GA Code 40-6-144&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17349" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T21:08:56.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9790" CreationDate="2015-02-14T05:51:52.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If cornering is the primary issue I will offer the following advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;look thru the turn to where you to be when you exit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use your brakes BEFORE you turn; enter the turn at the speed you want to hit the apex and accelerate out &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep mass over the center of the bike; don't lean into the turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;practice turning on dirt until you slide or fall; cyclocross skills practice is valuable even if you don't race&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't overfill your tires; you don't want them floppy but hard as a rock will not corner as well as pliable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't just ride with faster riders--follow their lines thru the turns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you may just not be as massive or as aero. You can probably make adjustments for aero but mass is something you likely want to leave alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T05:51:52.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28967" CreationDate="2015-02-14T05:58:02.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At your weight I would size up to 25mm tires and run lower pressures. High pressure does not corner better than lower pressure especially in wet. Lower pressure permits more of the tire to engage the pavement as contact patch as does a more supple casing. I weigh 150-160 and ride 700x23 racing clinchers at 75-90 psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also new tires can have a film on them. I would think 3 weeks would be sufficient to scrub it off but that's more a function of mileage than anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T05:58:02.353" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-14T06:52:35.140" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.baytrail.org/gap-analysis/GAP-ANALYSIS-REPORT-all.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gap analysis&lt;/a&gt; is from 2005.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to start biking from Redwood City to San Francisco. I'd rather not bike near cars, which is what &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Redwood+City,+CA/San+Francisco+Caltrain+Station,+San+Francisco,+CA/@37.6318463,-122.4707979,11z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x808fa03953f35ee1:0xb8e47b9b0baa6a6d!2m2!1d-122.2363548!2d37.4852152!1m5!1m1!1s0x808f7fd6eb33becf:0xb7d880249f5a29f9!2m2!1d-122.394323!2d37.776439!3e1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;googlemaps&lt;/a&gt; suggests. and I'd love to bike along the shore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2366/bike-routes-around-san-francisco&quot;&gt;bike routes around san francisco?&lt;/a&gt;, but I also am interested in the timeline for completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13835" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T14:53:06.423" Title="San Francisco Bay Trail: current map of completed/proposed routes" Tags="&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-14T16:51:27.280" Score="0" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike is a Giant &quot;Revolt&quot; and I have a speed/Cadence sensor (from Giant). It doesn't always record accurately. But my question: &lt;strong&gt;I'm looking for a Chart&lt;/strong&gt; that gives me the distance traveled &amp;amp; speed when I'm in a specific combination of gears with a constant cadence. So I'd like to know from this chart if I have gears(front &amp;amp; back of course) with 'x' number of teeth and my cadence is ie 65rpm's what speed am I going and what distance have I traveled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17354" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T16:40:42.953" Title="Gears, distance, cadence = Speed" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-02-14T21:49:18.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29003" CreationDate="2015-02-14T16:56:59.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's gear calculator&lt;/a&gt; shows you speed at certain cadences (in multiples of 20 rpm) as a function of chainring size, cassette size, crank length and wheel size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what its worth, most people should be using a cadence in the 70-90 rpm, so you're on the lower end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T16:56:59.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29003" CreationDate="2015-02-14T16:58:17.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like this one as it supports multiple parameters&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is a calculator and a chart    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeCalc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiply speed by time to get distance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 mph X 1.5 hours = 18 miles  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-02-15T16:40:42.953" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T16:40:42.953" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-14T17:19:14.107" Score="1" ViewCount="4268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to biking. I bought a hybrid bike with 9 gears at the back tire and 2 gears at the front. For reference lets say gears at front (chain ring) are numbered 1-2 and gears at back are numbered 1-9. As the numbers increase the the cycle becomes harder to pedal (for both front and back). For example if you switch from 1 to 2 at front cycle is harder to pedal. And if you switch from 2 to 3 at back tire, the cycle is harder to pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is this. Are there certain gear combinations, I should not be using. Can you write those combinations down for me like (1 back, 5 front). So I can use that for reference. The particular problem I am having is that when I am at around 7-9 at back and 1 or 2 at front the cycle starts making a weird noise. Is it normal? Any other combination I should not use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17355" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-02-14T22:33:24.037" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T22:33:24.037" Title="Which gears not to use in a 2 X 9 gear bike" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-14T17:20:58.017" Score="0" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vsSst.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;stripped down Huffy frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before it got taken apart and striped down it said HUFFY. Trying to find out what kind/year, thinking of making a custom with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17353" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-02-15T17:23:05.157" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T19:50:33.503" Title="What kind of Huffy is it?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29006" CreationDate="2015-02-14T17:26:20.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rule is that you don't want the chain angle to be extreme (i.e. the chain should be running as parallel to the frame as possible) - when the chain is at an extreme angle, it is called cross chaining. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears.html&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is a good read. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you don't want to use the little ring in the front and the little cog in the back (this increases wear on both of them). Likewise, if you want to use the big ring in the front and big ring in the back, you may want to go to the middle ring in the front instead and remain near the center in the rear (if you had it -- for a double in the front, there will be a point where you'll prefer to shift down in the front and then stay near the middle of the cassette). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to do is to avoid small-small combination though - modern drivetrains aren't too unhappy with cross chaining, but its still not good practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that the gears you use at the time depend on the terrain and what not -- try to aim for a cadence of about 70-90 RPM (how fast the pedals turn). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T17:26:20.763" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29006" CreationDate="2015-02-14T17:35:07.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Provided that the chain length is adjusted correctly, with a 2-chainring crankset you can freely use the entire range of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;dangerous&quot; gears are the ones causing cross-chaining. These are: small sprocket at front + small sprocket at the back, and big sprocket at front and big sprocket at the back. Especially the latter can cause trouble when your chain is too short. But it's more of a problem if you have a 3x crankset, where a chain on gears 1 and 3 is further from its perfect line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2x9 drivetrain in 2 of my bikes and using all gears whenever I want to. I haven't noticed any quicker wear and haven't had any problems with this setup for the past 5 years.&#xA;Though I did have a problem with a previous bike with a 3x crankset, when I snapped chain riding a 3-1 gearing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T17:35:07.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14055" CreationDate="2015-02-14T20:39:49.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zip tie the light to the side of your basket.  May take several tries to get the angle right and will not work on all baskets.  This has allowed me to still be able to reach the light while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17356" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T20:39:49.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-14T21:50:09.457" Score="19" ViewCount="56095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of getting a bike and biking it home from work on a mountain bike its 9 miles and reasonably flat, I'm not the fittest guy so I'm wondering if I would struggle??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17357" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2015-02-15T20:40:17.710" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T16:31:09.970" Title="Could I bike 9 mile a day home from work starting with no current exercise?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29011" CreationDate="2015-02-15T02:03:37.887" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the comments that 9 miles is a not a short ride for somebody not in shape, but you’ll get in shape for it really fast, so you should go for it. Just get ready to be sore in funny places for a couple weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make your situation better by doing a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a road bike instead, assuming you’ll be on pavement. At the very least, replace your mountain tires with something smaller, in the 30–40mm range. Mountain tires will slow you down and make you work harder. So will a heavy steel bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a rack for your bike and buy panniers to haul your stuff. Wearing a backpack for 9 miles will get old fast. Whatever you do, don’t get one of those hip shoulder bags. Chiropractic disaster. Best is to get a bike with in-frame attachment points for the rack – many road bikes don't have these, so make sure to check before buying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the bike and do weekend rides to get fit before using it for work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, have fun, and be safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8040" LastEditorUserId="17362" LastEditDate="2015-02-15T20:42:03.983" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T20:42:03.983" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8512" CreationDate="2015-02-15T04:00:25.647" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick, safe, and easy way to loosen and remove stubborn pedals: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/j2pNdTWLE94?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, you'll need a wrench, and will have use your heel to push it. The trick is in setting the right angle between the wrench and the rocker.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case this video is no longer available, here are some key steps from it:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WF7eH.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WF7eH.png&quot; alt=&quot;wrench mounting - step1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sy81C.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sy81C.png&quot; alt=&quot;wrench mounting - step2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XJPkJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XJPkJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;foot position&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3i0z.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3i0z.png&quot; alt=&quot;unscrewing the pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17360" LastEditorUserId="24153" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T13:22:52.197" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T13:22:52.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28988" CreationDate="2015-02-15T05:37:27.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I locked in your FORK, but your frame could most likely be from the 1990's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SR Suntour XCM V3 Coil 26&quot; Fork (2011)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Item Number:    100079607&#xA;Manufacturer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Suntour&#xA;ItemNo  100079607&#xA;Color   Black&#xA;Fork Model  XCM V3 coil QR-V/D fork 100mm (1&quot; thrd-150mm NLA&gt;&#xA;Steerer Tube    1&quot; Threaded&#xA;Front Axle Type 9x100mm quick-release&#xA;Spring Type Coil&#xA;Brake Type  rim + disc (6&quot; PM)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17361" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T05:37:27.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29000" CreationDate="2015-02-15T14:53:06.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first link is to the site that runs the trails and they have a trail map.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://baytrail.org/baytrailmap.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;baytrail.org/baytrailmap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T14:53:06.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29011" CreationDate="2015-02-15T15:07:46.583" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've cycled 15km (or 9.3 miles) to work for over 2 years. You'll get used to it very fast. I can reiterate what @tim.farkas is saying about that wearing a backpack will get old fast. I've bolted a big plastik box onto my bike rack to put my backpack in. It was very relieving to cycle without anything on your back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your time in the beginning and cycle at a pace you feel comfortable with. It's not a race. I'm well trained now and on average I need about 45 minutes one way. Plan more time than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the distance is still too much, there might be tricks to take it easier in the beginning. Where I live I could take my bike with me in the train in the morning, and cycle back in the evening. &#xA;A friend of mine is cycling the same way with an electric bike. He bought it because he wanted to arrive sweat free for work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more advice that is off-topic: The longer you cycle, you will someday get a flat tire on your way. That's why I always carry tools and a spare tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7315" LastEditorUserId="7315" LastEditDate="2015-02-17T12:32:31.810" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T12:32:31.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29011" CreationDate="2015-02-15T19:01:21.773" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biking is an easy activity to throttle.  Start slow and take breaks along the way if necessary.  Also take days off when you feel fatigued or sore.  Make sure you hydrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17363" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T19:01:21.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29011" CreationDate="2015-02-15T22:56:35.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider an electric bike. My situation was similar, 15km is just about 9 miles and while I'm not a &quot;big fat slob&quot; I'm not super-fit either. I could do it on a moderate quality touring bike in 45 minutes but I got to work soaked in sweat. Taking a (dare I mention it) cigarette-pause around kilometer 10, and cycling gently, I took 55 minutes but didn't offend my co-workers. I bought an e-bike and did it in 40 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My e-bike had about 100% boost (for every joule I gave, it added one joule) so I got a reasonable amount of exercise. In summer I managed out-and-back on one charge, in winter the batteries are less efficient so I took a charger with me. This was 6+ years ago, batteries are probably better now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the good fortune that my route was through wood- and farmland, and I enjoyed it a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17368" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T22:56:35.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29011" CreationDate="2015-02-16T08:59:56.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all I'd like to congratulate you, you've already done perhaps the hardest part, deciding to cycle to work. Its going to be tough, but I'm sure you can manage, and its well worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go through some concerns that others haven't brought up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will want to get the fastest bike you can get. You want a road bike or a cyclocross bike. Don't think about the extra resistance as helping your fitness. If you are riding an appreciable amount on the road, you want the extra speed to stay safe (cars have little patience for a slow and bouncy Full Suspension bike).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have someone teach you to change an inner tube with you. You WILL get punctures, and nothing will ruin you day like being stuck half way between work and home with a puncture you can't fix.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Map out and learn your route before you go. If you are in London, TFL have some great maps which rate each road on bike friendliness. Try cycle each leg of your route before hand, you may find that some roads turn out to be impossible to ride (at least at your level).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hi Vis. Get some. They look COOL. Safety first!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13165" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T08:59:56.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-16T15:29:38.260" Score="1" ViewCount="28501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what is the weight difference between Sora and 105 group set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17376" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T08:52:31.120" Title="Weight saving between Sora and 105" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-02-20T19:49:16.470" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28973" CreationDate="2015-02-16T15:46:05.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could argue that some carbon fibre disk wheels meet that description...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hyeuy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Disk wheel under construction&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare this, the drive spool for a human powered helicopter with Kevlar &quot;spokes&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BChGO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drive spool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T15:46:05.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29024" CreationDate="2015-02-16T16:46:48.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beyond a weight - you also need to look at Number of gears, Under tape cable routing, Stiffer cranks, Dual Pivot SLR braking, Aesthetics, Performance (slicker shifting for starters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T16:46:48.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29011" CreationDate="2015-02-16T16:54:30.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I been making 5 miles from home to work for a year and this are a few advices by myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to make a first ride of recognition when you don't have to worry about time, maybe the weekend. In this ride you have to pay attention to bumps, holes, car's crosses and transit signals in the road and if there is places for fix your bike in case of something happens.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ride 15 to 30 mins early the first times until you get used to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Define your route and if you have multiple choices, categorize them (I have one when I'm late and another with a beatiful landscape).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use your clothes of work to ride, instead use a shirt for sweat and get dirty, and in a bag put you work's clothes, the first times you're gonna sweat like a pig.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Always bring with you deodorant or a perfume if you can't shower in the workplace.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bring with you a rain slicker like this &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zLEoz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rain slicker&quot;&gt;, but don't use this &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wZH2E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;non-permeable suit&quot;&gt; because in this you're gonna sweat the double!!.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to ride in night or even late afternoon, equip your bike with lights.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use this for you pants, you dont want to get dirty of grease at work. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XGbeY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reflective band&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Optional) Use a scarf and glasses, sometimes the air make your throat and eyes sick.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Always be sure you have attach you bag firmly to your bike because when you're riding this can fall and you can lose it (if you doesn't notice). If you carry on yourself your backpack for 9 miles that is gonna make you sweat more.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't bike without a minimal cash (for incidentals).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17377" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T16:54:30.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2015-02-16T16:58:01.683" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is NO a bike shop will not lower the price for you just because you haggled! The profit margin is low on bikes and no lead way to discount.  Some bike stores will discount their bikes when the next year models come out.  Look for a non profit shop in the area where you can volunteer and build a bike for very little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17380" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T16:58:01.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-16T17:03:48.647" Score="3" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18548/how-is-cornering-on-the-road-different-than-cornering-on-dirt&quot;&gt;How is cornering on the road different than cornering on dirt?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18540/is-cornering-in-snow-any-different/18573#18573&quot;&gt;Is cornering in snow any different?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually attempt to keep at least half my weight on the front wheel for stability when cornering and braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with all the ice this winter, I discovered that front tire slips are quite ordinary. Thus, I find it beneficial to keep my weight back, maybe only 20% on front wheel, and stay ready to dab in the event of front tire slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is this reasonable behaviour on ice or am I being too scared and actually decreasing my stability by pulling back?&lt;/em&gt; Tires are Land Cruiser, saddle height is lower than typical XC to facilitate ... falling from not so high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T16:44:00.933" Title="Front wheel requires weight for traction: is this applicable to icy conditions?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;ice&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29030" CreationDate="2015-02-16T19:11:21.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real issue with ice is that it has a very low coefficient of friction, and weight distribution won't change that enough to make a difference. Tires with a soft compound and a lot of siping help somewhat, but the best solution is a tire with metal studs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T19:11:21.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29007" CreationDate="2015-02-16T19:50:33.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just stop at Huffy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must, look for a serial number on the bottom bracket (not sure if Huffys have one or not) and call them. I'm not sure what knowing what kind of Huffy it is is going to buy you, though. The parts that are missing should be readily available- or at least orderable- from your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T19:50:33.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28993" CreationDate="2015-02-16T19:59:53.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two clicks are just one shift. You can do a half shift from the big ring to the small ring by pressing the downshift paddle about halfway. This is to keep the chain from rubbing when you are in a low gear in the back and the big gear in the front. This half shift is known as &quot;trim&quot;. So two clicks up for a full shift into the big ring, two clicks down for a full shift into the small ring, one click down to trim the derailleur away from the chain when you're using gear extremes (big-big).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T19:59:53.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29030" CreationDate="2015-02-16T20:08:36.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd look at which situations you are encountering tire slips in.  If you are encountering tire slips in cornering, studs are probably the way to go (or much more conservative riding).  If you are having trouble while you are braking, you may consider adjusting your technique to be much more rear brake heavy or rear brake alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that no matter what I do my pedal stroke is so sloppy and unbalanced that I almost never pedal on ice.  Generally I just try to coast over ice sections keeping my body as relaxed and centered as possible.  Major direction changes (without studs) are pretty much out as well.  I try to keep my weight off my handle bars so that I am not tempted to move the front wheel quickly or with any real force.  If you are going to try and turn the front wheel, it should be a feathered movement.  More than anything it takes practice and watching out for icy spots.  I probably fall (on ice) less than once a year now.  When I started riding in the winter (even with studs) years back it was probably closer to every other week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-02-17T16:44:00.933" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T16:44:00.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28965" CreationDate="2015-02-16T20:14:21.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer ranges between &quot;not really at first&quot; to &quot;not at all.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rim has a braking surface that was simply painted over, then your braking power is going to suck, even to the point of being dangerous, until the paint wears off. I had a pair of Stan's ZTR 355's that were like this. One race in the mud and the paint was gone and braking power was fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, many rims that are painted have a profile that was never meant for rim brakes to start with. It doesn't matter how much paint you rub off of these rims as you're using them in a manner that they were never meant to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate, here's a couple of rim profiles with rules of thumb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possibly Ok (check with manufacturer)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/svviJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NEVER OK&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Rm3X.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rim states that it's &quot;disc specific&quot; or &quot;disc only&quot;, go with that, and don't use rim brakes on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2598" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T20:14:21.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28965" CreationDate="2015-02-16T20:33:02.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your specific bike, the Masi Riser, there is nothing to worry about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those rims are from BrevM. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://urbanvelo.org/brev-m-36h-wheelset/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;review&lt;/a&gt; of some brevm wheels on urban velo, it says that the rims were machined before annodizing.  So, the annodizing masks the brake surface, but it should work fine.  Even if they were not machined ahead of time, assuming good quality control, there really shouldn't be an issue unless they were made for disc specific mountain bike or cyclocross applictions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as your rims are not disc specific, but not machined, then you should be good, and it looks like that's not the case here.  Many times fixed gear bikes are sold without a machined brake surface for the seamless look, especially for those who prefer to ride brakeless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2015-02-17T06:06:12.500" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T06:06:12.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29011" CreationDate="2015-02-16T22:12:06.393" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;9 miles, reasonably flat&quot; is not quite enough to divine how difficult it might be to negotiate the way from home to work (and back). Traffic, and safety in general, is another concern, especially if biking is not in your blood. Quality of the road also matters -- smooth tarmac, for example, is much easier than dust or gravel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trouble with biking to work is that you're not free to make many choices (as opposed to a Sunday afternoon trip). If you're not dependent on biking as a means of transport, you can decide each morning whether to go or give it a miss. You're not free to make the same choice in the evening (unless you can leave the bike at workplace overnight). You do not choose the weather. You do not choose the timing. You do not choose where you go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, biking to work is a great way to start the day and purge your head a bit. It's definitely worth trying and persevering. Take as much rest as you can when not on bike (lots of sleep). Go every day if feeling fine, go every other day if too tired. Borrow a bike if you just want to try it. Keep safe, and good luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17386" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T22:12:06.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29030" CreationDate="2015-02-17T10:42:41.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out studded tires are most effective against ice. As for weight on front wheel, yes it is important to have some. But you do not want to lean heavy and make your hands heavy and stiff. You want them to be light, quick to react and precise. You also want your upper body to be flexible and quick to react.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T10:42:41.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28985" CreationDate="2015-02-17T13:58:46.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On road: unpleasant wobble.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Off road: no noticeable difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came to this conclusion after they fixed (install new asphalt) the street in front of my block. First time I rode on it, I discovered the front cones are pitted and the rear cones are overtightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, I would expect to both the spokes and bearings be more severely loaded then when the wheel is true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T13:58:46.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28985" CreationDate="2015-02-17T18:55:07.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Big thing I would worry about is uneven spoke tension now.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If some spokes are loose (and not treated with thread locker), the nipples on the loose spokes may loosen, and the tight spokes may be more susceptible to breakage (because the loose spokes hold less of the load).  I would replace the rim ASAP if you don't want to have to start buying a lot of replacement spokes too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is always the chance that you'll taco your wheel. I've done it on my touring bike with a wheel that was giving me troubles with spoke tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T18:55:07.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28482" CreationDate="2015-02-17T22:15:42.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Community poked this.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Take the blunt end and strike it on concrete.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Really I have done this to free keys.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't go for the hammer first but some times a hammer is what you end up with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T22:15:42.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28482" CreationDate="2015-02-17T22:41:08.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this helps, but I lost keys to krypto lock (in 2010) and was offered free of charge replacement keys by the manufacturer, sent to me inclusive of postage..../ maybe they could fix at the factory and give you a new key set for minimal cost while extracting the faulty key??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18398" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T22:41:08.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T07:05:31.417" Score="0" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have upgraded from v brake which starts braking immediately after pulling the brake lever, but in my new bike the brakes starts much later after pulling the lever. What problem it may have? I am using a Tektro branded brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11176" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T11:58:31.347" Title="Hydraulic disk brakes starts braking after pulling the half of the lever, how can I solve this problem with the brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T07:07:00.120" Score="1" ViewCount="1706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new for cycling. I am searching for bikes on which I will ride mostly on roads, but also on terrains/mountains occasionally. After doing a few researches online, I finally decided to buy a hybrid bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly people are suggesting to buy a Hybrid Bike which doesn't have suspension and disc brakes (even I'm not worried about disc brakes). So I thought to buy a bike which has a suspension fork with lockout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is it instead also possible to get a lockout mechanism from store to add to a suspension fork which doesn't have a lockout itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18406" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T10:16:36.263" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T23:19:58.723" Title="Retrofit lockout for a suspension fork?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29048" CreationDate="2015-02-18T07:30:24.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on pad adjustment and most hydraulics have some kind of auto adjustment, also following pads' wearing - small &quot;springs&quot; between the pads return them to the initial position. Cable driven disc brakes can be adjusted at the caliper for tighter fit. &#xA;You'll probably never be able to start braking immediately. It needs some play, otherwise it would always touch the disks.&#xA;Though wiht hydraulics you should also check if you have enough oil/brake fluid in the lines, without air in it. That can also cause a loose, weak braking. It's probably done best by a professional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17339" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T07:30:24.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29049" CreationDate="2015-02-18T07:44:26.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's very rare, you'd better buy your bike already with that - maybe have a deal in your local shop to swap the fork to a lockout one when buying the bike.&#xA;Disc brakes are much better than rims IMHO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17339" LastEditorUserId="17339" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T07:51:02.230" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T07:51:02.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29053" CreationDate="2015-02-18T08:48:24.763" Score="0" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to Bicycling. I have a question on gear shifters. Mostly the bikes are available with Revo Shifter and EF Fire Shifters. Which one of these are best and why it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18406" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T09:01:48.000" Title="Best Gear Shifters" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-02-20T19:53:21.413" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29052" CreationDate="2015-02-18T09:01:48.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no best. It is purely preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most high-end bicycles are equipped with the rapid fire levers - but this may be purely down to market consensus ie. what sells a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some XC racers still use the gripshift shifters and SRAM still make the high-end shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used gripshift years ago on my first mountain bikes but found them quite fragile in a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gripshift - you can change a whole stack of gears in a single twist. Rapid fire requires multiple few clicks to achieve the same movement. But this has not been a problem for myself in practice - if you read the terrain ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rapid fire levers are more robust and I am yet to break one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T09:01:48.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T10:32:55.160" Score="0" ViewCount="704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regularly cycle to work in London, at the moment the weather is between 5-9 degrees Celsius. I'm finding it difficult to decide what to wear in these conditions as I either get too much windchill (when I don't wear leggings) or sweat too much that it's uncomfortable or I look too disheveled when I arrive. It seems to be about striking a balance between not being too cold when I leave and not too hot once I'm in full flight. It's obviously much easier to decide what to wear when it's either really cold or very warm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, are there any guidelines or conventions governing what pro cycling teams / serious riders wear according to the temperature/wind conditions? Are these things decided by each rider or do teams decide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17252" LastEditorUserId="1464" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T14:11:48.740" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T14:11:48.740" Title="Clothing: when should we wear what, are there any guidelines/conventions?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29054" CreationDate="2015-02-18T11:03:09.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think pro riders wear jerseys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I usually think about &lt;strong&gt;ventilation&lt;/strong&gt;. Throat and the joints like fingers, knees  - get high insulation via scarf, gloves, soft kneepads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The core of the body - which produces a lot of heat - (chest, back)is well ventilated via airflow from the neck of my anorak to the wide opening on the bottom i.e. I don't tighten the lower end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In colder than that weather a bacalva or an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dx.com/p/multifunction-outdoor-sports-seamless-head-scarf-black-240224#.VOSPkC61fIo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;elastic scarf&lt;/a&gt; can cover the face and ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My anorak is similar to this one, but with larger opening at the neck. Notice the large opening at the bottom. If I am cold, I tuck my t-shirt into my pants. If I am sill cold, tightening of the string at the bottom of the anorak is &lt;em&gt;useless&lt;/em&gt;, because then the cold is due to frost wind at the chest.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SCe58.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;This is a quick answer. The question has been asked and there are good answers somewhere around.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;btw in Bulgaria now it's the same weather (obviously)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T13:21:03.297" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T13:21:03.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29054" CreationDate="2015-02-18T11:46:31.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the question you actually ask, about team riders, the answer is that its a personal thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, though, with a pro rider (any sponsored rider, in fact) that there may be contractual things which require/prevent them from wearing certain things. The range of kit available to them will depend on the depth of the sponsor's pockets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone like Santini, for example, produce lots of different clothing products (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.santinisms.it/custom-team-kit/download-brochure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;they have a catalogue online&lt;/a&gt;) and so getting each and every product made up in team colours will be prohibitive for the smaller teams. (I suspect non-team clothing is not an option for the riders, and you do hear stories from way back about riders sewing their sponsor's labels into their preferred clothing, so as to &quot;appear&quot; compliant - a bit like footballers and their boots.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the rest of us....the general rules are (a) to wear your layers many, thin and wicking, so as to prevent getting sweaty (and therefore damp); (b) not to allow yourself to overheat during the ride - in practise this can mean starting off cold and relying on the exercise to get you warmed up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those two are good for the dry. In the wet, bear in mind that the more waterproof you go, the less you will wick, so it is a sliding scale. My personal preference is to accept that you're going to get wet, but to concentrate on wearing clothing that will dry quickly once the rain stops. But this rule doesn't work very well though for e.g. winter socks (and shoes for that matter) - the combination of cold and wet is always difficult to overcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T13:35:21.373" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T13:35:21.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29054" CreationDate="2015-02-18T13:58:08.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pro-teams wear high performance race garments.&#xA;The last thing a pro-rider wants is to have to wear a jacket which flaps in the wind as this will only serve to slow them down. So not only must the garment be functional - it must be race-cut to a close fitting with no excess material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the weather turns foul - the favourite of the peloton is the Castelli Gabba. It is known in the past for teams to use this garment - even though they were sponsored by other clothing manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of clothing for racing in cold and wet weather is designed using a water-proof soft-shell material but without the taped seams to increase breathability. The Gabba is a perfect example which other brands have followed ie. Sportful - no rain or Capo Lombardia etc.,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New rules to the UCI this year mean teams must wear jackets, gilets which do not cover their sponsors logos. No more Gabba.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I commute (UK) by bike - I check the weather forecast and also have a thermometer outside the back door. I wear race gear and do not wear waterproofs - as they are too hot in use - but have a pretty water resistant jacket should it downpour. Everything else is water-repellent but not waterproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commute is 1hr and its about the limit for the clothing before it is really drenched in heavy rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Versatile clothing options are the key. Arm warmers, Knee warmers, leg warmers, gilets are all very versatile bits of kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T13:58:08.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27351" CreationDate="2015-02-18T14:36:02.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be GREAT if you could try both, as several people mentioned here. Or if the shop can provide bike-fitting with an expert, that would be excellent. In general theory is not always right when it comes to bike sizing, you have to try by yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases, here are some notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that it doesn't differ with you which 'mode' you want to get into, &lt;strong&gt;back flexibility&lt;/strong&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;KEY&lt;/strong&gt; to whether you could/could not go into &lt;em&gt;performance mode&lt;/em&gt;. I personally have some lower back issues that hold me back from going to &lt;em&gt;performance mode&lt;/em&gt; for a long period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that your &lt;strong&gt;inseam&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;strong&gt;torso&lt;/strong&gt; lengths are critical, it's not just a matter of how tall you are. High inseam means that you would probably raise the saddle and so your handlebar reach will be affected. A long torso means that you can have flexibility raising the saddle without pressuring your back as much.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish you best of luck in finding the right size of you. Let us know how it went off for you :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18407" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T00:12:41.127" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T00:12:41.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28993" CreationDate="2015-02-18T14:46:10.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this video by &lt;strong&gt;GCN&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;&lt;em&gt;Global Cycling Network&lt;/em&gt;&quot; --&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ea03ChN-7Vg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How To Adjust Your Front Derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their channel is VERY helpful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you find what you need there ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18407" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T14:46:10.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T19:29:34.630" Score="1" ViewCount="13234" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a 7 speed Derailleur work on a 8 speed cassette I have a extra 8 speed shifters? and a wheel that has a 8 speed cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18412" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T17:44:16.197" Title="Can a 7 speed Derailleur work on a 8 speed cassette" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;7-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29060" CreationDate="2015-02-18T20:27:17.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably. Depends somewhat on whether the shifter is compatible with the derailleur (Shimano 8-speed shifters generally will work okay with 7-speed derailleurs, but you can't usually do a Gripshift with a Shimano derailleur, to name a couple of examples.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to adjust the limit screws and barrel adjuster, but you would have to do that any time you install a different derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T20:27:17.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T21:17:31.497" Score="6" ViewCount="8411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Asked this on diaspora, but was urged to come here, so, here's my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to slide BACK on my saddle really far, to the point where my sit bones are very near to the edge. If I try to scoot forward, it's markedly more uncomfortable for the soft tissues and the angle of my legs doesn't feel right. The bike frame itself is the right size-- the shop helped me with that. So I don't know if I just have a big ass, a weirdly long torso, or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told that I should never, under any circumstance, adjust the seat further back on the post, but I'm somewhat at a loss of what I should do to fit my body's dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I need a new saddle anyways, so any suggestions would be helpful. (Assuming they won't cost me an arm and a leg. I'm unemployed, after all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18414" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T23:37:47.177" Title="I sit real far back on my saddle" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29060" CreationDate="2015-02-18T21:41:58.410" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;8 speed shifter and cassette, 7 speed derailleur? You'll be fine. There's no &quot;probably&quot; about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6-, 7- and 8-speed gear is all cross-compatible in terms of chain width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time you'd hit a problem is if the shifter and the cassette weren't made for the same number of gears, for example you could imagine a scenario (e.g. 7-speed cassette, 8-speed shifter) where you might click past the edge of the cassette. That would negatively impact your day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T21:58:46.917" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T21:58:46.917" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29062" CreationDate="2015-02-18T22:21:00.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that bicycle seat comfort is more about adjusting your expectations for your style of riding than an objective measure of comfort.  I do the same thing on my bicycle seats and always have since I started riding seriously 35 years ago.  For your reference, I am a man, 5'11&quot; and about 150lbs, so I have a relatively small frame.  I have ridden numerous centuries and double centuries (100 miles and 200 mile rides), commuted 15 miles each way for 30 years.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My two most used bikes are a road bike and a town bike, both fitted with leather Brooks saddles that I ride for different purposes.  I use a men's B-17 on the road bike which is a narrow, stiffer, harder saddle.  The town bike is a converted '80s TREK touring frame that is now a one-speed with upright style bars with a women's B-67s.  The difference between mens' and womens' saddles, interestingly enough seems to be the length, not the width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find myself moving back on both saddles to get my &quot;butt bones&quot; over the rail because it takes pressure of the softer tissues.  I don't necessarily stay in that position, but I do it now and then because it just feels better to change positions.  I shift around more on the B-17 than the B-67. I have not tried the B-67s on a road bike with the drop bars.  I'm just enjoying it too much on the upright town bike to want to experiment.  It is comfortable enough that I have ridden it on some 25 mile rides with less butt fatigue than the B-17.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The funny thing about seats is that even though the B-17 is stiffer and harder, it is my preferred seat when I'm trying to ride fast as in a 10-15 mile commute run where I want to put my head down and get there as fast as possible.  The only saddle I don't move around on is the cheap, original mattress style saddle on my 50lb. Schwinn Cyclone one-speed.  But I wouldn't want that saddle on a road bike or even my favorite town bike.  Why?  Because a very soft saddle seems to absorb more energy and feels less efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18415" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T22:21:00.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29062" CreationDate="2015-02-18T22:44:53.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add on offset seat post but that is more money.  A decent is $60.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A saddle has forward and back design points.  If you take it way back and sit back then you put a lot of stress on the rails.  I had one fail, when out the back, and landed on the tire on my butt - you don't want that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tilt the seat down will move you forward.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike size actually is correct consider your riding position may not be optimal. &#xA;What your bike is telling you may be the best position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T22:50:32.943" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T22:50:32.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23863" CreationDate="2015-02-18T23:04:11.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are like most people, commuting implies getting to work on time and in the back of your mind is a comparison of total commute time and expense with the alternative of auto or mass transit. Consequently, bike commuters tend to be &quot;head down, balls out&quot; riders who aren't interested in messing around and just want to get where they are headed in the morning.  In the evening, they look forward to the ride home and it often becomes a time trial with a shower and a beer waiting at the other end.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commuted about 14 miles each way for 30 years between Davis and Sacramento and I would never attempt to do it on a bicycle with an upright riding position.  Most of the riding is on open two-lane country road.  Also, headed west in the afternoon during warmer months it is common to get 20mph headwinds!  Those headwinds will make a grown man cry for his mommy.  Under those conditions a traditional road bike with drop bars (to lower your wind profile) and close fitting clothing to reduce wind drag and a triple chain wheel in front is all highly desirable.  Spend as much as you can afford.  After all, you're not driving or paying for the bus or train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, I frequently ride across town, about five miles each way for a doctor or dentist appointment on my 1980's converted TREK touring frame with one-speed, upright bars, a fairly wide Brooks B-67s saddle with built in frame lock, front basket, rear rack and folding baskets, 700x25 tires...my lightweight Dutch style bike, wind or no wind.  Why?  Because it's fun.  One tends to be less goal-oriented and more engaged with the scenery riding in an upright position.  Riding time is increased about 10% but the tradeoff of having to start a little earlier is worth it to me.  I have ridden this bike with the aforementioned headwinds and it took longer.  So what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your objectives are to minimize your biking commute time, get the road bike with drop bars with lots of gears for hills or headwinds and the best lightweight components.  If you're willing or able to sacrifice 10% more time to live in the moment a little more, go with the lightweight Dutch bike concept.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, better yet, employ the fleet system of bikes like I do so you can switch depending on how you feel that day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18415" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T23:04:11.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T23:46:09.883" Score="4" ViewCount="1448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I presume that if you get all spoke tensions equal, and at the recommended tension for the spoke thickness, then the wheel will be true. &#xA;My intention is to get a wheel reasonably true (laterally) by seeing where it rubs against the break blocks in situ, and then use the tension meter to fine tune it. Just means I don't have to purchase an expensive stand to measure that the hub is centred, or the rim is over the centre of the axyl. Are these last two measurements unecessary if the tensions are equal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18419" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T16:42:10.183" Title="When truing a wheel, is it enough to only use a tension meter, and not a truing stand?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;tension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29054" CreationDate="2015-02-18T23:56:15.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a minimalist, non-Lycra advocate and also a cross country skier.  What I've learned over 30+ years is that people tend to initially overdress when starting out on aerobic activity.  I decide what to wear by what is comfortable for the weather at hand, and then remove one layer.  Or, If I'm a little chilled or uncomfortable to start out, I figure I'm dressed just right.  At 5 to 9 degrees C, all you need are decent gloves, a light windbreaker that zips up full around the neck and maybe a nice wool cycling cap that covers the ears.  You don't say how far you are riding.  It takes a good mile or two to get warmed up to your &quot;running temperature&quot;.  By your description I'd say your commute is long enough to get sweaty, so that's what my advice is based on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18415" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T23:56:15.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29062" CreationDate="2015-02-19T00:05:37.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, just because the bike shop says it's a good fit, doesn't make it so. Their incentive is to sell a bike off the floor so they'll find the one that fits best and sell it to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a custom fit and I have longer thighs than most people. This meant that to get the seat position right, I had to have my saddle further back from the pedals than is typical. I ended up getting a frame built to my measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible you have the same setup. If you can't afford a bike fit, then look for a &quot;setback seatpost&quot; and you can do some trial and error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of having the seat in the right position for you is to allow your legs to cantilever your torso and &quot;unweight&quot; your hands, arms and shoulders. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/seat-set-back-for-road-bikes/&quot;&gt;Here's an article&lt;/a&gt; that talks about the benefits of unweighting your arms and how far back to set your seat to achieve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T00:05:37.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29068" CreationDate="2015-02-19T00:52:01.963" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A wheel could theoretically be trued by tension alone if you started with a perfectly manufactured rim, hub, spokes and nipples and you were building a perfectly symmetric wheel.   The reality is that there are minute differences and that tolerances are not all that tight.  Not to mention that ultimately the wheel has to go into a frame that also may not be perfect (dishing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no.  I've had many sets of hand built wheels that were beautifully crafted and never saw a tension meter because the tension was hand checked.  But, they were built in a truing stand and were incredibly close to perfect.  Your initial presumption is incorrect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T00:52:01.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29079" CreationDate="2015-02-19T03:21:35.390" Score="1" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Giant hybrid (with 700x32c 65 PSI tires), stock tires, that I mainly ride on nice roads to and from work ~3.5 km/2.2 miles each way.  I weigh 230 lbs/104 kg up from 200 lbs when I bought the bike sadly two years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I check my tire pressure before I start riding again (If it's been more than 2 weeks) or every week. And I've put about 640 miles on the tires, but in that time I've had 3 blowouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems like a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing a bit of reading it feels like my tires might be under inflated (I have a decent floor pump I use and I try to keep it right at 65 PSI) for the weight load (270 lbs/122 kg including bike), but I can't tell.  I haven't measured displacement under load (I'll do that when I get a new inner tube) to see if it's above 15% or not, but I don't thing there's any tire or rim damage that would be poking the tube either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I tell what's causing the frequent blow outs?  Low tire pressure or too close to the limit?  Or are my expectations wrong on how often they occur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: Okay, I removed my back tire and inspected the tube and there's a small hole bigger than a pin prick around the size of a pin head. There also seems to be pitting/cracking on the inner tube (Forte 200x28-32C made in Taiwan 2012 37 03).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cn8zA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leak point&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears to be the puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cceQ3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire puncture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I just have low quality inner tubes? I've just been having the bike shop I bought the bike at replace my tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bccclub.org/documents/Tireinflation.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;General guide for optimum tire pressure on a road/mountain bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/16482/hybrid-bike-how-much-should-i-inflate-tyres/16483#16483&quot;&gt;Similar question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18420" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T20:07:14.400" Title="3 flats in 650 miles (1030 km) on hybrid bike. Tire pressure wrong?" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29062" CreationDate="2015-02-19T03:39:22.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using a layback style of seat post from Thomson.. can then use any of your current saddles, otherwise use a downhill style of seat ...that is usually longer than the &quot;wheenie&quot; std saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18398" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T03:39:22.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29068" CreationDate="2015-02-19T05:31:10.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short no&lt;/strong&gt;. I actually took a true wheel that I had built and carefully equalized all the spokes on each side with a spoke meter.  &lt;em&gt;This actually put the wheel slightly out of true.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rims, spoke nipple rim interactions, hubs, etc., are all imperfect.  How you place the tension meter on the spoke will be imperfect.  All of these little errors can add up to put the wheel out if true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the tension meter to check that you are at a good starting point, then finish the true by hand with a truing stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T05:31:10.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29082" CreationDate="2015-02-19T10:29:37.147" Score="5" ViewCount="23860" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everybody know that Hybrid bike can be used for mountain cycling. But I want to know what are the disadvantages if we do so? And what are disadvantages of using mountain bikes in cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18406" LastEditorUserId="18406" LastEditDate="2015-02-19T10:59:44.393" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T19:07:21.993" Title="Disadvantage of Hybrid Bikes on Mountains" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29076" CreationDate="2015-02-19T11:03:03.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frames very similar to current hybrids have often been sold as mountain bikes for fairly benign riding. With a suspension fork you essentially have a hardtail. Mountain tyres tend to have much more tread which is a bit of a chore on tarmac. For many forest trail rides you could just get on a stock hybrid and ride in the dry at least. Anything much more serious and you'd need to change tyres and possibly the fork. &#xA;For the really rough stuff you'd want full suspension so the downside is you can't ride that on a hybrid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mtbs in the city - it depends how far and fast you're riding and how much suspension you've got (especially if it can't be locked out). You may also lack pannier mounting points for commuting. But people do very happily commute on full suspension mtbs, especially in the winter if they've got a road bike they want to keep clean (or maybe they prefer the handling of the mtb in the wet/snow). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T11:03:03.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13674" CreationDate="2015-02-19T11:30:43.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past, I have tried a few different things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have melted rubber from an old tire into the inside lining of my tire where the hole was.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's a crack, I have put duct tape on the inside doubled with non sticky side on rubber.so one folded piece with no stick on inside of crack, then the rest of the tape wrapped all around inside of tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've also glued with gorilla glue or rubber cement to the inner tire, placed a mesh like material or a thin Lacey type of material onto the glue and lining of inside tire. Let dry and then some times put that graited yellow duct like tape used for fixing holes in the wall to cover material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hemp works well say if you don't have nylon in your tire. You can compensate so your tire life is longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, once I had a slit in my valve stem and so I took some thick string and I put a thin layer of rubber cement or contact cement, and put it on the valve stem. Then wrapped the string around every bit of the valve stem and put more glue on top of my wrap. It actually worked perfectly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18425" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-02-19T11:57:23.447" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T11:57:23.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29072" CreationDate="2015-02-19T13:17:22.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you mean halfway between?  A blowout is bang and an instant flat.  A blowout is not caused by under inflation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pinch flats is an indication of under inflation.  You will see a slit on the side of the tube where it was pinched against the rim.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At your weight you should be at the tire maximum pressure.&#xA;Get a quality pressure gauge.  Pumps can be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can put larger tires on that bike the go that route.  Large tires are less susceptible to pinch flats.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get a flat inspect the type of hole and it match up to the wheel and tire. &#xA;When you take the tube off leave it same side up so you can lay it back on the tire / wheel and see what caused the flat.  If you have debris in the tire you must remove it.  If it is a spoke need to fix that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OP posted a picture of the tube and it appears to be a puncture. &#xA;I assume that is the bottom/outside of the tube (you are not twisting it). &#xA;You need to get the debris out of the tire or you are going to keep getting puncture flats. &#xA;If it is just small debris then it can take a few days to wear through before it flattens the new tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also inspect the outside of your tire on a regular basis for debris. &#xA;A piece of glass will eventually works it's way through (even a puncture resistant tire). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-02-19T19:14:41.677" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T19:14:41.677" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29062" CreationDate="2015-02-19T16:18:57.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably just have the wrong saddle. The width of the saddle has to match the width of your sit bones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reading of your question is that only the very far back of the saddle is wide enough to comfortably support your sit bones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to do is determine the width of your sit bones. This article has some good suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9815/is-it-possible-to-measure-your-sit-bones-at-home&quot;&gt;Is it possible to measure your sit bones at home?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know that distance you have a much better chance of getting a saddle that works for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still a matter of trial and error though, finding the exact shape that works for you can take a long time. Some bike shops have saddle demo programs that allow you to try a saddle for a week or so. Unfortunately, there's no quick way to know if a saddle will work for you or not. A few long rides is the only way to know for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T16:18:57.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29068" CreationDate="2015-02-19T16:42:10.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A functional truing stand is a lot cheaper than a tension meter. But you don't need either to build a wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bicycle makes a reasonably good truing stand all by itself. You can use zip ties to get good markers for getting the wheel properly centered and round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with using the bike as a truing stand are largely ergonomic. Building a wheel takes time ( especially the first few ) and having it in an easy to use spot, where you can work on it in a comfortable position makes it much simpler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hanging the bike or supporting it in some way so you can stand up straight and work on truing the wheel will help a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T16:42:10.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29076" CreationDate="2015-02-19T17:00:44.887" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since a hybrid is a combination of two or more types of bike characteristics, there are many possibilities, and you should consider what aspects of the particular bike where meant for the mountain or for the road and see if they meet you needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tires&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use almost any tire, provided your frame has the clearance needed. Wider tires can be safely used at lower speeds and also provide a contact patch with a larger area, both give better rolling characteristics for off-road riding (more traction, shock absorbtion and lower rolling resistance on rough terrain). The rougher the terrain you want to ride, the fatter the tire you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Hybrid frames won't accept tires wide enough for serious MTB riding. On the other hand, a wide frame and fork can accept the thinnest tire that fits your rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drivetrain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, MTB requires low gear ratios to provide mechanical advantage for ascents on rough terrain or for extreme climbs. On the other hand, Road riding requires high gear ratios to provide high travel speed while keeping the cadence (pedal rotation speed) relatively low. Commuting requires a mid range gearing, which you may modify towards any of the two extremes depending on how hilly is your city, your style and physical condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A road drivetrain may not have the low ratios needed for off road riding. Generally speaking, the same slope is rideable faster on pavement, thus you can use higher gears. An offroad slope has many smaller obstacles like roots, stones and terrain irregularities that do not allow the use of high ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A secondary disadvantage is that larger chainrings get closer to the ground and so, are more likely to hit obstacles like logs or big stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain drivetrain is normally good enough for smooth commuting. For a flat city where you don´t need higher speeds it means that only the mid-range gears would be used. The low gears may come in handy if you commute on a hilly city with steep climbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for high speed road riding, you may run out of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frames&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally a road frame has an horizontal top tube, this reduces standover clearance. (distance between the top tube and the crotch of the rider while he or she is standing with both feet on the ground). Some hybrid bikes are designed like this. On mountain riding you usually need greater clearance, making this a disadvantage of certain Hybrid frames for MTB use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other disadvantage &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be that the hybrid frame may not be properly reinforced to withstand the high demands of serious MTB riding or may not accept upgrading certain components, like a fork with suspension (or greater travel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, MTB frames tend to have sloping top tubes to provide better stand over clearance. While this is not properly a disadvantage for road riding, or commuting, the lower top-tube and seat tube junction also lowers the possible mounting points for rear racks, (if any) which in turn may reduce the possibility of fitting one. This is a disadvantage only if you need a rear rack with medium to high load capacity. (Because there are seat post mounted rear racks with limited load capacity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspension forks and frames&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some hybrids have mountain geometry but rigid forks. These can be used on light offroad use, specially for prepared trails that have been smoothed out. And for city riding if the city has good infrastructure (no potholes at least).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A suspension fork with around 100mm travel is good for any riding you can do on a hard tail frame (non suspension frame). It's excellent for trail riding and for cities where potholes are common or if your riding involves a lot of getting on and off curbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a fork with suspension blocking, you should at least have one with preload regulation and rebound control. Higher preload and slower rebound setting than used for mountain riding helps to reduce pedal bob, thus improving efficiency for city riding. The same goes for using suspension frames for city riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A suspension frame is very unlikely to have mounting points for rear racks and complete mud guards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My personal experience&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have successfully commuted on a very hilly city and made two 500+  kilometers rides (with around 100 km stages) on a hardtail mountain bike with slick tires, an air suspension fork, 3x9 mountain drivetrain, straight handlebars and a seatpost mounted rear rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The low gears (22/34) have been a blessing on steep roads or when I get really tired. On the high end, my 42/11 top ratio has been enough for the speeds that my training level allows me. The straight handlebar provide only one hand position, which causes hand and wrist strain on long rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mountain fram geometry allows for a more upright position. This proved good for the back o my neck, since being 4+ hours on a bike at a time caused pain on my peers that where riding road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thin, slick tires are so great that I can almost roll as easy as my road counterparts, but they are not as skinny as theirs, so I get slightly more comfort on rippled or highly cracked asphalt and more confidence against potholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The air fork allows me to easily tune it, using higher pressure to reduce pedal bob, since it doesn't have locking. The rear rack is very useful for light loads, but it vibrates a lot more than a frame mounted rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage is that my frame has v-brakes that perform a little bit better than regular road brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike fits my needs closely because I didn't bought it as is, I have changed many components over the years. The only change I want to make now is to incorporate a road or a touring handlebar. (but I don't want to change my brakes or shifters...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm currently experimenting with a rigid fork and bar tape on a riser (MTB) handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is that bikes have so many components that the possible combinations are almost endless. There is no possible way of making a bike that will excel in all types of riding, let alone one bike that fits everybody's needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that any bike will have disadvantages for certain type of riding, so it is up to you to define your needs and pick the bike that most closely meets them, experiment, research and decide whether changing some component is necessary and possible (considering budget and compatibility) to make &lt;em&gt;your particular riding&lt;/em&gt; better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:13:24.160" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:13:24.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29072" CreationDate="2015-02-19T17:40:40.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your attentiveness while riding, the hazards in the area you ride in and a few other factors, that may be a reasonable amount of flats.  I know a few commuters in my area that expect roughly a flat a week in their roughly 100 mile weekly commute.  I've ridden with this particular pair of guys, however and found they have a tendency to shortcut through glass filled abandoned parking lots and the like, and they don't pick careful lines through that mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say this about flats, when you change a flat, you should always figure out why/how you got the flat.  If you don't, you'll just get the same flat again.  Pull the tube, keep it oriented, re-inflate it and figure out where the hole(s) are.  There are articles out there telling you where to look based on the placement of your tube holes and their configuration.  If you are getting repeated puncture flats from objects, you may consider switching to more puncture resistant tires.  Keep in mind more expensive does not mean more durable.  I've bought ultralight and expensive race tires before that didn't make it 13 miles around a loop before picking up 3 punctures from gravel that wasn't even that sharp.  I ended up switching to a much heavier but more puncture resistant tire that was 30% cheaper and hasn't had any punctures since.  I don't race, so that works fine for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your awareness doesn't keep you out of glass patches and the like (or they are just unavoidable in your area, I am pointing at you Honolulu) and you get repeated puncture flats, you may also consider switching to a tubeless setup with juice in your tires to minimize the impact of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T17:40:40.450" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29076" CreationDate="2015-02-19T21:17:20.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key difference between a hybrid and mountain bike is the geometry and the position of the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hybrid bikes tend to have a steeper headtube (headangle) which gives the rider a more upright position. The disadvantages for climbing will be the riders weight would be too far back and the bike would feel as if the front wheel is lifting. Descending the rider would feel like they were hanging over the handle bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantages of a mountain bike in the city is that it has a more aggressive riding position and can be more tiring than an upright position. If suspension can't be fixed or locked-out there is also efficiency loss with pedal bob (bike moving up and down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyres, drive train and suspension are interchangeable but not the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T21:17:20.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4687" CreationDate="2015-02-20T14:41:37.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I didn't know is that today's top pro riders (especially UCI pro teams) are often &quot;billboards&quot; of the bike industry as a whole. They are supplied by companies with framesets, groupsets, wheels and others. Not necessarily do they believe their bikes are the fastest available, nor even fit them the best. Is Trek, Specialized, Pinarello or Canyon selected because of their performance? No. Those are used because those companies ask riders to 'advertise' their bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, most of their bikes aren't custom-made, just as the same ones commercially available in your local shops. Perhaps with the exclusive painting, but even those 'pro color' models are (if limitedly) released to us. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been collecting information on bikes of the all Grand Tour winners, but as for  Tour de France, here's the list of the past 15 years. Technically speaking, 1999-2005 should have no winner, but still for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    | Framesets &amp;amp; Manufacturer      | Groupset &amp;amp; Manufacturer  |&#xA;----+------------+------------------+------------+-------------+&#xA;2014|Specialized |Tarmac S-WORKS    | Campagnolo |Super Record |&#xA;2013|Pinarello   |Dogma 65.1 THINK2 | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     |&#xA;2012|Pinarello   |Dogma 65.1 THINK2 | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     |&#xA;2011|BMC         |SLR01             | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     |&#xA;2010|Specialized |Tarmac S-WORKS    | SRAM       |Red          |&#xA;2009|Trek        |Madone 6          | SRAM       |Red          |&#xA;2008|Cervelo     |R3-SL             | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     |&#xA;2007|Trek        |Madone 5.2        | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     |    &#xA;2006|Pinarello   |Dogma-FPX         | Campagnolo |Record       |&#xA;2005|Trek        |Madone SSLx       | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     | &#xA;2004|Trek        |Madone SL         | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     | &#xA;2003|Trek        |5900              | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     | &#xA;2002|Trek        |5900              | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     | &#xA;2001|Trek        |5900              | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     | &#xA;2000|Trek        |5900              | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     | &#xA;1999|Trek        |5500              | Shimano    |Dura-Ace     | &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some random notes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first carbon winner bike appears in 1986, and since then the material of racing bicycles have been gradually replaced by carbons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although now bikes are well recognized as their 'bike names' and 'manufacturers', such notion was less apparent until around 1980s. We can still know what companies manufactured those bikes (e.g. Gitane or Peugeot) or what companies manfactured tubes of framesets (e.g. Reynolds or TVT), but I think &lt;strong&gt;who&lt;/strong&gt; made them also did matter at that time, while most stuff are now mass-created in Asia. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The list is pretty Shimano-dominated, but it's actually where they finally started doing so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14337" LastEditorUserId="14337" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T16:07:07.910" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T16:07:07.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29024" CreationDate="2015-02-20T15:04:28.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since nobody so far has posted weights, I'll leave &quot;one&quot; data in case it's useful for somebody.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                   | 105 5800 | Sora 3500 |&#xA;-------------------+----------+-----------+&#xA;Levers             |     486g |      496g |&#xA;Brakes             |     388g |      357g |&#xA;Front Derailleur   |      89g |      105g |&#xA;Rear Derailleur    |     234g |      246g |&#xA;Crankset           |          |      844g |&#xA;Crankset (with BB) |     808g |           |&#xA;Cassettes          |     269g |      343g |&#xA;Chain              |     257g |      270g |&#xA;-------------------+----------+-----------+&#xA;Total              |    2531g |     2661g | &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;105 is average weights with BB, and Sora is one actual weights &lt;strong&gt;without&lt;/strong&gt; BB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sources of 105 are &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclepine.com/blog/store_information/5915.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;multiple&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cb-asahi.co.jp/html/road_upgrade.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shops&lt;/a&gt; (Not in English). I think they just list what Shimano claims but doesn't make it available online for whatever reasons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The source on Sora is &lt;a href=&quot;http://retao.hatenablog.com/entry/2014/04/28/231436&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this blog&lt;/a&gt; (not in English too, but with photos of each part on a platform scale).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actual weights will vary depending on the crank length, the gear size, the cassette combination, the derailleur capacity, or even quality of individual parts (yours may be slightly lighter or heavier than average).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14337" LastEditorUserId="14337" LastEditDate="2015-02-21T08:52:31.120" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T08:52:31.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29614" CreationDate="2015-02-20T15:07:26.760" Score="4" ViewCount="20939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1 x 11 drivetrain setup on my mountain bike.  This is stock from the factory, it wasn't a conversion.  When I'm in the low gear climbing, there is a lot of chain/derailleur noise. It gets more noticeable when the drive is under more tension. Being in the low gear, the chain angle is fairly minimal, so I am really perplexed. The sound almost mimics when the chain rubs against a front derailleur when the chain is at a drastic angle rubbing against the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid I am wearing out my drive train too quickly because something is not adjusted correctly.  My old 2 x 10 was virtually silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addition, when going downhill and pedaling, the chain was slipping teeth quite often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After replacing the bottom bracket and spending the rest of the season fighting the noise, I have decided it's coming from the SRAM X style teeth on the front chain ring.  When the drive train is squeaky clean the noise is minimal. However after a ride or two the noise starts to come back.  It's only there when the drive train is under heavy load.  It sounds awful, like my chain and teeth are grinding together.  I can only assume it's the X teeth, anyone else confirm this on their 1 X 11?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10649" LastEditorUserId="2152" LastEditDate="2017-09-10T14:52:46.593" LastActivityDate="2020-06-07T15:33:42.470" Title="SRAM xx1 1 x 11 drive train very noisy" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5926" CreationDate="2015-02-20T20:20:29.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont really grasp percentage ratios in relation to gear ratios,I prefer talking in gear inches so my nuvinchi N360 set up is 42t chainring 16t sprocket 700c wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gear calculator on Sheldon brown website shows my gear inches range as 36&quot; bottom to 130&quot; top,this is an excellent spread of gear ratios.Also note it has no duplication of gears like you find on a double chainring or worse still a triple chainset,a larger rear sprocket will give a lower set of ratios if needed for hilly areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hub is heavy and would not be a good addition to a full suspension bike,the weight is not noticeable in a hardtail frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unit is sealed and maintenance free if your not really able or into tinkering with bikes and adjusting front/rear derailleur setups thats a big bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're never out of gear and can change down equal to 2 or 3 gears stationary useful for less experienced riders,there is no issue with chainline and the thicker chain you can use has a long life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The N360 has the retro fit option of harmony automatic electric shifting I am using this and it works really well, great for commuting bikes and again people who get a bit fuddled with 21+ gear systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes in pure efficiency terms the derailleur is more efficient but in real world use the smooth jerk free and if wanted automatic shifting ability of the Nuvinch N360 more than offset this and I wont be using derailleur gears by choice again anytime soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are an excellent combo with crank drive e bikes but work fine on normal bikes too. The harmony autoshifter means that to remove a wheel you just unplug the power lead from shifter unit mounted on the wheel and remove from bike, it has no cables to disconnect maintain or adjust for that matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18435" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T22:00:49.590" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T22:00:49.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-20T21:24:11.697" Score="1" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone in the forum have experience with anything that can block the noise of wind that doesn't look like I have fur growing out of my ears?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18438" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T17:01:06.680" Title="Help for wind noise" Tags="&lt;noise&gt;&lt;wind&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-03-07T12:41:41.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29093" CreationDate="2015-02-20T22:14:53.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things you could try. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple headband over your ears would be an easy an cheap solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you don't want anything to fully cover your ears you can buy ear plugs designed specifically for this purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google: blocking wind ears cycling &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you get plenty of options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;www.cat-ears.com for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course. Good in ear monitors work also on case you want to listen music while riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18433" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T22:14:53.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29093" CreationDate="2015-02-20T23:17:36.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used cat ears until they were stolen, along with my helmet. I really liked them. I found that they reduced the amount of stress that persistent noise can cause, and I felt safer because I was able to hear everything a lot more clearly. No, not paid by the company, just honest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T23:17:36.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29088" CreationDate="2015-02-20T23:25:23.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear derailleur is maladjusted and is hitting the cassette/freewheel when it's in the lowest gear. Also, the chain could be too short, causing this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How old is your drivetrain? Maybe some of the parts are worn out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The front chainring could be flexing. I don't think this is it, but it's worth checking to make sure the bolts are tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See if the rear derailleur parts are spinning freely. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T23:25:23.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29062" CreationDate="2015-02-20T23:37:47.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to actually try adjusting your saddle up instead of back. If your saddle is too low, you may be compensating by rolling back on the seat as you pedal. Adjusting your seat up will push it back a little anyway, but it's something worth trying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T23:37:47.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29112" CreationDate="2015-02-21T02:13:33.777" Score="11" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of this small block on a handlebar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/waMiE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Small rectangle on handlebar&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vogelvrijefietser.nl/hetblad/2015-02/artikel/fietsarcheologie&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article on &quot;bicycle archeology&quot; (in Dutch)&lt;/a&gt; describes that they have almost completely disappeared, and are found only on very old bicycles.  It does not really describe the purpose, except indirectly that &quot;nowadays we don't care about scratches&quot;.  But I fail to see how this block would prevent scratches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2015-02-21T16:02:18.937" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T21:20:56.957" Title="What is the purpose of this small block on the handlebar?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21077" CreationDate="2015-02-21T05:45:01.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 3 year old Spot with an Alfine 11 with about 11,000 miles on it.  The belt lasted about 9,000 miles.  The hub started leaking at about the 7,000 mile point, and will currently dump all of its oil about every 400 miles, making for a really greasy belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leak is around the inner seal / gear changer cog. The large dust cap seal doesn't leak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for slipping, as the hub gets older, it gets more sensitive to your cable length being out of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18443" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T05:45:01.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15321" CreationDate="2015-02-21T06:10:51.313" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;High end road bikes have a louder free hub so that riders in a peloton can have an audible clue that those ahead of them are coasting or braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18444" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T06:10:51.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-21T09:13:28.310" Score="2" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found lots of tutorials on how to bleed the disk brakes. And in all of them there is  nothing about removing existing fluid. &#xA;I'm quite afraid that when I start to bleed brakes the existing fluid will be mixed with a new one. &#xA;Is there any special procedure to remove the existing fluid and clean the cable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18445" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T11:28:09.943" Title="How to remove existing fluid before bleeding disk brake" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-21T09:41:57.927" Score="1" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;What size wrench do I need for the rear hub on my Schwinn cruiser?  It is a Shimano Type D. Also, what grease is recommended that I might be able to by locally.  Thanks to all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18446" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T00:37:12.903" Title="Cone size for Shimano Type D on Schwinn Cruiser" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29101" CreationDate="2015-02-21T11:28:09.943" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to remove existing fluid prior to bleeding. Unless you use two incompatible fluid types (for example replacing DOT 5.1 with 5), mixing an existing fluid with new one is completely normal and part of standard procedure. The only situation where you may want to remove the old fluid completely is if you know it has ben heavily polluted with water. But even then normal bleeding procedure is enough to have satisfactory results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During a standard bleeding procedure you push the old fluid with a new one and they don't have even enough space to mix together. If you do want to remove the fluid before, just push the old one with air instead of new fluid. It may take a few attempts to get rid of everything, but the result should be satisfactory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you're going to fill the system with an incompatible fluid, such procedure is not enough anyway. In this case you would have to take the brake apart, clean everything with alcohol, let it dry out and put back together (paying particular attention to rubber parts). Also note, sometimes a given brake won't accept other kinds of fluids because of its design. In some cases o-rings can be damaged if wrong fluid is used, even if they are clean and dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T11:28:09.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-21T13:57:58.017" Score="0" ViewCount="2765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very basic Specialized Allez (XL frame) street bike (pictured in my avatar) with a cheap SG B52/39 chainring needing replacement (warped and wearing out after two years of daily use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here in Costa Rica the LBS can't seem to find a replacement chainring the same size as I have. They only offer me compact cranksets which I don't accept since I already max out on the flats to the the 52T/12T top gear combination. Therefore I need to figure out what chainring/crankset to order myself the US online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I don't know what to order that will fit (something one tends to rely on the LBS to get right) my bike as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm coming to y'all. What do you recommend I get? Here's my details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Teeth&lt;/strong&gt;: I learned from &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.performancebike.com/2013/11/08/our-take-race-vs-compact-cranksets/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; that there are racing, compact and even mid-compact chainrings. I think I prefer the mid-compact of 52/36T. If not possible, a racing of 53/39. Are both possible?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crankshaft&lt;/strong&gt;: Also, my current crankshaft is 170mm and I don't know if that's what I should get on the next chainring. I am 6' tall and have a 33-34&quot; inseam.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quality&lt;/strong&gt;: My focus is durability; I ride every day. I don't want to pay a lot for something light since I'm not racing but I also don't want another cheap chainring that bends easily like the stock one did.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping you can recommend an exact model chainring or crankset and maybe even where the best place to mail order it is (to a US address from which someone will bring it down to me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. In case it matters, the stock 8-speed cassette in the back seems fine (Shimano CS HG50 12-25T). I also have a new Shimano Sora RD-3500 rear derailer doing well. The front derailer is the stock Shimano Sora FD-3400&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18449" LastEditorUserId="18449" LastEditDate="2015-02-21T14:50:11.043" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T01:08:50.437" Title="Replacement crankset for Shimano SG B 52/39?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-21T17:51:59.857" Score="4" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an american classic seatpost. I bought it used, and wasn't sure how to properly adjust it initially. I found the bolt on the bottom clamps the seat down. The bolt on the rear underside adjusts the saddle angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the bolt on the front was a mystery. I took the post out and looked at it and you can see that the bolt on the front of the post connects to this rod inside the post.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rod has a fixed end which is inserted up in to the seat tube, and the bottom of the rod is threaded and has a small alloy knob on the bottom. It appears to flare at the bottom and has a slit in the bottom of the seat tub where this knob rests. I have no idea how you would tighten this from outsidem But it looks almost like you could tighten it like a stem for a treaded headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this for and why did they include this on the seatpost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seatpost&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TpDcZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Seatpost&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close up of bottom of Seatpost with Rod (You can't see it, but there is a slit in the font of the seatpost)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3vPE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of bottom of Seatpost with Rod&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rod Removed from Seatpost&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrGML.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rod Removed from Seatpost&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bolt on front of Seatpost&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WC4Jz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bolt on front of Seatpost&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T21:01:53.817" Title="What does this rod inside the my american classic seat post do?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29098" CreationDate="2015-02-21T18:01:09.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can easily find a scratch prevent parts for cars. (Simply google it, if you didn't see one yet).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For bikes. This place on handle bar can be easily scratched by touching walls / falling and scratching ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T18:01:09.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-21T19:18:06.323" Score="-1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;The body is white and there is a sign that has a HH on it and my grips say that it is a wethepeople . The rims are titanium blue , the handle bars are gray,and the forks are to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18451" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T23:53:39.700" Title="I don't know what it is" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-02-22T13:50:16.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29106" CreationDate="2015-02-21T21:01:53.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a Peugeot bike once where the seatpost didn't have the usual clamp but a similar system to hold it in the seat-tube. The system was not very practical because if you wanted to adjust the saddle height you could only do so if the saddle was removed. The bolt was tightened from the top of the seatpost. There was a second draw-back: the seat-tube being rather thin walled you had to be be careful when tightening or you could ruin the tube.&#xA;Your bicycle has a normal clamp so I would remove this long bolt with the cone and save hassle and weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T21:01:53.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18522" CreationDate="2015-02-21T21:36:49.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not always clean my bike as often in the winter as I do in the summer. I usaully wait until its a warm day (high 30s low 40s) and clean it in my garage. I take an empty bottle of wind shield washer fluid and fill it up with very hot soapy water. I take an old kitchen sponge too. I then just pour a little bit of the soapy water onto the sponge and scrub the dirt off. I always take the front tire off, but rarely do I take the back tire off during the winter. I just scrub all the muck off. I then just slowly pour the soapy water onto the chain (like what you would do when lubing it) and all over the rest of the drivetrain. I scrub the hard to reach places down with a drive train cleaner. I then rinse out the bucket and fill it with just hot water. Wash everything down, dry, and then lube. Right it up and down the block once or twice just to make sure everything is working. and thats it. Hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18452" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T21:36:49.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29098" CreationDate="2015-02-21T22:03:34.427" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bikes had one. You would simply put your bike against the wall with just that &quot;thing&quot;  and your saddle touching the wall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would prevent scratches and made sure your bike doesn't fall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That thing was made of some sort of rubber/plastic so your handlebars wouldn't simple &quot;slide&quot;  down the wall making your bike fall when you put it against it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also. Because of the rubbery consistency of the &quot;thing&quot;  you could put your bike against a wall in weird angles that would otherwise cause your bike to fall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18433" LastEditorUserId="18433" LastEditDate="2015-02-21T22:16:56.393" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T22:16:56.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29109" CreationDate="2015-02-21T23:53:39.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wethepeople is a brand. Is this what you mean? I don't really understand your question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wethepeoplebmx.de&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wethepeoplebmx.de&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18433" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T23:53:39.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22925" CreationDate="2015-02-22T09:46:43.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that the issue with wanting to keep our old frames and ante up with a beefed out fork is hard.  If you do in fact want the upgrade, try Aliexpress.com for 1 1/8 steerer tubes and old skewer axle options that are hard to find without buying a whole new bike.  I purchased one fork, instead of the &quot;Tapered fork Overhaul&quot; and just bought a new 1 1/8 headset along with it. Works great, and cheap. Lots of fork options too, spring, gas, 27.5 650B, whatever your looking for, they got it, cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/SIEG-130mm-travel-super-weight-magnesium-alloy-1-5kg-air-suspension-bicycle-fork/32213406008.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/SIEG-130mm-travel-super-weight-magnesium-alloy-1-5kg-air-suspension-bicycle-fork/32213406008.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18454" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T09:46:43.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-22T12:42:22.540" Score="0" ViewCount="1337" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the recommended torque of the front caliper bolt for a carbon fork?  The Fork is from a Felt F1. I don't want to damage the fork from over thightening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17295" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T13:48:47.027" Title="Torque for front caliper bolt." Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-02-23T19:19:23.617" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29115" CreationDate="2015-02-22T13:48:47.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normally specified by the brake manufacturer, not the fork manufacturer. A summarizing table of common torque values provided by Park Tool is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/uploads/files/blog/torque.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Shimano, they recommend 70-85 inch-pounds, 90 inch pounds for Campagnolo and 68-72 inch pounds for Cane Creek. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it wouldn't hurt to check with the fork manufacturer and the brake manufacturer's documentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T13:48:47.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29118" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-22T17:19:38.753" Score="0" ViewCount="1319" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone might have a service manual of some description for a vintage Specialized Rock Hopper(1987 - Yellow)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have googled this for hours and hours and have tried contacting Specialized directly but no dice. I need to find out how to remove the rear brake, there appears to be something (perhaps a hidden pin) holding it to the bike. I really need to find out how to remove this, and I really don't want to pay the LBS for what could be a simple fix (colour me stingy). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, I've got a lot of work ahead of me to make this bike cosmetically sound, but the brakes are the only mechanical failing... Ideally I'd like to take them off to give them a deep clean, and to lubricate each part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks,&#xA;Bill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8dQt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Cbwg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uesAN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sgt5l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18456" LastEditorUserId="18459" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T22:02:31.163" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T23:37:50.837" Title="Specialized Rock Hopper (1987) - Service" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-22T18:40:03.377" Score="1" ViewCount="6480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an issue where every time I put my bike in gear 3, it would just keep &quot;skipping&quot;. By this I mean that it wouldn't stay in gear 3; the chain would go onto it, then fall onto gear 4, then go back onto it, then back on 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Googling showed me that I might need to adjust the rear derailleur. So I set about doing this today by first putting my bike onto the biggest cog and adjusting it so the derailleur was in line with the cog. Then I shifted it down to the smallest one and did the same thing (I think I got a bit confused between this and changing the screws to line these two up with something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, as luck would have it, this fixed the problem of the skipping however I now can't shift into gears one or two (the two biggest cogs). Like I literally can't flick down the gear lever to put it into these gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the issue? I would love some advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13458" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T01:54:02.533" Title="Can't shift to gear one or two" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11058" CreationDate="2015-02-22T22:45:13.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes, it works. I've tried it before&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18462" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T22:45:13.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30694" CreationDate="2015-02-23T00:10:45.300" Score="1" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a classic steel road bike, gazelle tour de France, and one of the fork blades was bent in the frame direction, some two centimetres, after a crash. I read here that this can be realigned, I'd like to know if this is something that can be done at most bike shops and what price should I expect to pay. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T10:03:20.620" Title="Having the fork blades aligned" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-23T02:36:38.103" Score="3" ViewCount="5818" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I want to achieve&lt;/strong&gt; is going from having some gears to having more gears. To be more specific I would like to get more gear ratio range in both low and high end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all I tried to look for the answer over several days(few hours at a time). I also hope this is not too open ended - I did read on how to ask a question and what not to ask. I'll try to be as specific as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find several topics on adding gears to a single speed bicycle. Like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6590/whats-the-easiest-way-to-add-gears-to-my-single-speed&quot;&gt;Whats the easiest way to add gears to my single speed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ask.metafilter.com/61848/How-hard-is-it-to-add-gears-to-a-bike-that-previously-had-none&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How hard is it to add gears to a bike that previously had none&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also found people going from multiple-gears to a single gear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13469/how-to-convert-a-multi-speed-bike-to-single-speed-with-coaster-brake&quot;&gt;How to convert a multi-speed bike to single-speed with coaster brake? &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And MTB specific talk on giveing up the front derailleur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://unluckypete.com/2013/03/why-single-chainring-is-enough-for-trail-and-enduro-riding/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why single chainring is enough for trail and enduro riding&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In several threads people have suggested getting a second bike but this is not a good solution for me at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bicycle (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chelseabikes.co.uk/images/uploads/ammacoclassique.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ammaco Classique&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano RS-35 6-speed index revoshift gear lever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano TY18 rear 6-speed derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gears:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front single 42T cog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear a 6 speed freewheel with 14T-28T (G.Falcon 8BO). It measures 33.5 mm tall when rested on it's back on a table top and measured to the tallest point. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can usually handle most of the repairs myself and consider this a fun exercise. So I probably won't have to count shop hours in the overall cost. That said there are still several jobs/tools that I have jet to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I already know about &lt;strong&gt;adding front derailleur&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I might also have to upgrade the rear one to match the gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll probably need clamp-on cable guides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll most likely need to get a new chain guard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also might need a new bottom bracket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I already know about &lt;strong&gt;upgrading the rear&lt;/strong&gt; one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I will probably need to get a new chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is enough to get the discussion going. Sorry for the broken links - will fix them when I get sufficient rep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14476" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T15:33:11.510" Title="Adding front derailleur vs upgrading the rear one on a (ladies) bicycle" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29118" CreationDate="2015-02-23T07:22:10.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are just old U-Brakes (installed at the chain stays as was cool for part of the late 80s). You just need to unbolt them from the studs (maybe hit it with some penetrating oil to help loosen it oFF the studs). Unfortunately due to the placement of the U brake , you're going to need to get another u brake since you won't be able to mount a normal brake that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T07:22:10.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-23T10:16:44.200" Score="0" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the perfect air pressure is related to the performance of bikes? If yes, what is the exact amount of pressure required on MTB, Hybrid, City Bikes and BMX?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18406" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T11:44:11.490" Title="Air Pressure on wheels" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-02-26T14:25:46.180" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29124" CreationDate="2015-02-23T10:22:29.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To upgrade the rear: you will get a wider wheel, therefor you are going to wider your rear fork too. I don't know if you have 8 cogs freewheels in your LBS, so it can be, that to put 8 gears, you will have to replace the wheel to get a free hub &amp;amp; cassette system.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For 7 gears you will not have to replace chain, while for 8 you will have to.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Anyway, those 1 or 2 gears not seems enough to me. Thou there are pretty nice mega range freewheels, that gives you a very low ratio on the biggest cog and probably a smaller than 14T for the highest gear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To upgrade the front you will have to clump cable guides, as you said. That is the most problematic point, so check first can you do it or not. You need only one guide that will hold the cable when it's going down to BB. Later the cable will go throw a tunnel below BB (like the rear cable). But you will have to buy many things for your bike:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. put front derailleur&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. put front shifter (many LBS sell them only as pairs front with rear)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. replace crank&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4. as new crank will probably be wider, you will have to replace the BB (but not sure)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5. chain guard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Hint: some cranks have the smallest ring going out to the bike and they more likely to touch the frame. In Shimano cranks the smallest ring is strait, so before changing the BB, you can check if some sort of cranks will be suitable for you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="7999" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T19:13:39.063" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T19:13:39.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29127" CreationDate="2015-02-23T10:22:50.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course it's related: more pressure -&gt; less contact with surface which gives less friction. But for the the exact pressure I think you should refer to the tire. Usually it's written on the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18445" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T10:22:50.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29127" CreationDate="2015-02-23T10:38:15.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The optimum pressure for any kind of bike is going to depend on a lot more factors than just the type of bike. You have to look at many other things such as rider weight, terrain, and tire size. It also depends on how you qualify something as optimum. Higher pressures might be optimum in some situations, but may not be very comfortable to the rider, making long rides very hard on their body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T10:38:15.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29127" CreationDate="2015-02-23T10:59:31.930" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;MTB Tire Pressure (PSI) Made Easy&#xA;Individual preferences, terrain, and tire type play a role in finding the ideal pressure, but here's a simple formula to get you started:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step One&#xA;If tires are tubeless:&#xA;Your body weight (lbs) ÷ 7 = x&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step Two&#xA;Front-tire pressure = x - 2&#xA;Rear-tire pressure = x + 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6801" LastEditorUserId="6801" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T11:44:11.490" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T11:44:11.490" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29127" CreationDate="2015-02-23T11:53:42.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Air pressre in your tyres is very significant in terms of performance; in case of slick tyres it's even more important than width. However it's impossible to arbitrally put any value of tyre pressure as perfect for a given bike. The tyre pressure adjustments can depend on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheel size - smaller wheels need higher pressure because the overall volume of tyres and their contact patch is smaller thus the pressure of this patch on the ground is higher meaning it's easier to have a flat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyre width - again wider tyres have larger volume so they are harder to deform allowing for lower pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rider and bike weight - if you're heavier you need higher pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyre weight - it's not always the case, but quite often lighter tyres have just thinner walls so need higher pressure to avoid flats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rubber type and thread density - these can make a difference and make it possible for a light tyre to be ridden in low pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;required grip, terrain type, weather - lower pressure means higher grip and in really rough terrain can actually mean lower rolling resistance. But in such terrain you need not only grip, but alsoresistance to flats, which requires higher pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rider experience, personal preferences&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tubeless, tubulars, clincher - tubeless tyres allow for lower pressure, as do tubulars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rolling resistance vs grip - especially in road cycling higher pressure means significant decrease of rolling resistance, but can also mean lower grip (this can be made up for with  softer rubber). You may have to choose basing on your experience and requirements what you prefer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could have forgotten something, but these are the most important. So to conclude, some of these are really hard to be put in a fixed formula and given numerical values, and therefore it's impossible to say that a given pressure is perfect for a given bike. Even in professional cycling this is usually defined with trial and error method. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T11:53:42.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-23T14:31:14.340" Score="3" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am shopping around for a high end commuting bike.  Several reputable manufacturers, including Batavus and Trek are using rims with 9x4 spoke hole pattern. Here are a couple examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zgaxp.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zgaxp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Trek front wheel with 9x4 spoke rim&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/nl/nl/bikes/city/town_and_recreation/city_series/daytona_7_speed_blx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.trekbikes.com/nl/nl/bikes/city/town_and_recreation/city_series/daytona_7_speed_blx/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just a silly fad, or are there non-obvious advantages to this spoke hole pattern / lacing for commuter bikes?  I'm thinking maybe you're less likely to stress spokes with your U-lock as long as you stick to the gaps... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18467" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T22:48:11.893" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T22:48:11.893" Title="9x4 spoke pattern" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29123" CreationDate="2015-02-23T16:36:58.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2cm seems like a lot to attempt to fix this way. I would not trust this repair to just any old bike shop, but find one that specializes in working on older steel bikes. I'd expect to pay for about an hour of labor at whatever is the going rate for the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have attempted to do this kind of repair on a fork myself following Sheldon's directions and it's not that easy. Even a relatively minor alignment tweak is difficult to get correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other alternative is to contact a local frame builder and see if the fork can be rebrazed with the correct alignment, or manipulated in some other fashion. Every hand built bike requires this kind of tweaking, so the builder will at least have a lot of practice. &#xA;I would only go this route if the bike is especially unique in some way. It will require &#xA;repainting the fork and likely cost a lot more than just finding another similar fork on Ebay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T16:36:58.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2015-02-23T17:43:12.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take these factors into consideration: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A horse is a fairly typical herd herbivore. It is mainly concerned about large, fast-moving predators. Its main means of defence is running away as fast as possible and hoping the predator gets one of the other horses in the herd instead. Its secondary defence is kicking the **** out of anything that gets in a kickable place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like other herd herbivores it sacrifices binocular vision for increasing the width of its visible arc - its eyes are to the side of its head. That means that it can see you coming up from behind quite a long way away, as long as you are not in a fairly narrow arc straight up the dock, but it's not very good at telling how far away you are. In the wild, predators try and approach unseen, so horses are very sensitive to movement on the edges of their peripheral vision, and particular to things that duck in and out of their sight, such as a cyclist weaving from side to side. So try to approach from as wide an angle as possible so that it can see you constantly, and ride smoothly rather than doing anything that looks like shaping to pounce. Talking calmly may help.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rider is a secondary issue, but if you're nice to them they may appreciate it, even if it can sometimes be hard to tell. They won't appreciate suddenly finding themselves twelve feet up in the air on half a ton of animal doing pirouettes, because it's bloody terrifying, for good reason. Also, they're the ones who will initiate lawsuits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18470" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T17:43:12.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29124" CreationDate="2015-02-23T20:55:50.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your only economically viable option is to get a new 6-speed rear cluster that has a wider range. Adding gears onto the front that bike is going to be almost expensive enough that it's probably not really worth doing. And adding more gears to the rear is effectively impossible. That's an overstatement, but it's waaay more money and work than you want to get into. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find a compatible rear cluster, you just need to figure out if your bike has a freewheel or cassette. The venerable Sheldon Brown has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;great article&lt;/a&gt; about what the difference between the two is and how to identify which you have. Once you know which you have, just count the teeth on the largest and smallest rings. Then you can buy one with more teeth on the big ring and less teeth on the smallest ring. If you're really struggling on the hills, look for one with a &quot;granny gear.&quot; Shimano markets them as &quot;megarange.&quot; Basically, it's just a big gear that's a significant jump from the next biggest gear. It's not useful for much except for crawling up hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that your new cluster will be too big of a range for your current derailleur. It's hard to find precise specs on your bike, so I can't say for sure.You'll have to consult the derailleur manufacturer's technical manual to figure out whether your derailleur will accommodate the wider range of your new cluster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also possible that your chain won't be long enough. I'd probably just put the new rear cluster on and see if you can shift through all the gears. If you can, great. If you can't get up onto the bigger rings, you'll need a longer chain. Sheldon Brown once again has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article on how to find the right chain length&lt;/a&gt; for your gear setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you need a new chain and derailleur, I'm betting that you could get the whole rear done with comparable parts for well under $100 US, probably closer to $50. If you just need a cassette or freewheel, it'll probably be under $20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're absolutely determined to get gears in the front, you'll definitely need a front derailleur, front shifter, and cables and housing. You'll also need additional chainrings. You can buy them individually if your crankset will accept them. However, it's probably cheaper to just buy a new crankset. You'll also likely need a longer chain, if you haven't already bought one for the rear. You may also need a new bottom bracket with a longer spindle, but maybe not. By the time you're finished with all of that, you're probably talking about at least $100 for just the front, maybe closer to $200. That's somewhere between a quarter and half of the cost of your bike. If you have to buy any tools or pay for labor, it gets even more expensive. If your bike's in decent condition, you're better off selling it and putting that money toward a new bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T20:55:50.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-23T22:43:39.307" Score="1" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Kryptonite U-lock and my key doesn't seem to be working, I'm not sure if the key is broken or the U-lock. How do I unlock my bike? Kryptonite isn't open and both the key and lock worked an hour before. (I have a theory that moisture inside the lock froze.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18475" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T16:04:46.010" Title="Broken Key/Lock" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5132" CreationDate="2015-02-24T02:25:05.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was Co-op's private brand bicycle from 1969 - 1990&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18477" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T02:25:05.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7907" CreationDate="2015-02-24T02:30:36.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is to use spray teflon. Nothing else works for very long. Most oil based lubes dry out and get gummy. That is what stops it from working. The little parts get gummed up and stick. Use teflon spray and flush it out well. Hold the brake lever open with a rag under the shifter to catch the excess and spray into every opening. Let it sit for a while and then do it again. You should begin to feel it working in a short while. Work it back and forth, holding the opposite lever from moving and jamming it up. This should fix it. REMEMBER, NO OIL! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18478" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T02:30:36.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T05:24:36.593" Score="0" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between a Mongoose that has logo stamped on frame and a Mongoose with no stamp on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18476" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T12:24:29.830" Title="Mongoose stamped vs. unstamped" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8476" CreationDate="2015-02-24T10:12:19.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The web site Bike Dynamics has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikedynamics.co.uk/guidelines.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online guide&lt;/a&gt; that could help you find the right fit. To me it sounds like you're going hard. If the thigh is swelling raising the seat could make it worse. Lowering the seat would affect knees so you need to find exact spot. You may also want to look at a roller for your Iliotibial Band, you could develop chronic &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iliotibial_band_syndrome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ITBS&lt;/a&gt; if your bike fit remains poor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18481" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T14:13:45.937" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T14:13:45.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29119" CreationDate="2015-02-24T11:19:09.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had something similar happen, after hours of calibrating, I realized I was using a 7 speed shifter on a 5 speed cassette. This might not at all be the case for you, but if it is, it would be worth checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18482" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T11:19:09.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29138" CreationDate="2015-02-24T13:48:58.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened to me with a Kryptonite Evolution lock. I locked it, went for lunch, but afterwards the key just wouldn't unlock. After hours of oil, poking bits of wire, screwdriver waggles, help from strangers, I gave up. I tried again the next day, and gave up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, I had to cut the lock with an angle grinder. Took 20 seconds tops. I took it back to the bike shop and they replaced it immediately. They said they replace about one a year on warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also recommended putting a bit of oil in the lock each month to keep it working smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T13:48:58.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T15:52:09.007" Score="0" ViewCount="699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old giant warp D's 2 bike that's about 10 years old. I've maintained it and it still rides good and looks just as good. I wanted to upgrade from the old alivio 8 speed drivetrain to either a new alivio or altus 9 speed ddrivetrain but wasn't sure if the cassette would fit on the freehub on the bike and I didn't want to buy the components and then found out they couldn't fit and then be stuck with useless parts. Could somebody please help the old man stuck in a rut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18483" LastEditorUserId="14321" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T01:12:27.470" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T01:12:27.470" Title="Upgrading From Shimano 8 Sp Alivio To Shimano 9 Sp Altus" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T19:12:19.270" Score="15" ViewCount="10342" Body="&lt;p&gt;I boughtt a Shimano SM-MA-R160 Disc Brake Mount Adaptor for my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It came with these black plastic things in the lower right corner of the photo below. I have a bunch and don't know what are they used for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jcVHQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are those plastic thingies called?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are they used for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How are they applied?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How important are they?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T15:40:20.400" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T14:15:48.693" Title="How are these plastic rings used on my Shimano disk brake mount adapter?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T19:36:47.563" Score="4" ViewCount="3922" Body="&lt;p&gt;When biking, my eyes get red. Guessing due to dryness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, people wear sunglasses or glasses to block out the wind. Wearing them didn't help. Still red. Maybe more red if I wasn't wearing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was at nighttime. It was cold. What suggestions do you have to prevent this problem? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18484" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2019-06-09T08:06:01.720" LastActivityDate="2019-06-09T08:06:01.720" Title="Preventing red eyes after biking" Tags="&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29148" CreationDate="2015-02-24T19:40:12.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stop ring.  Should have been in the instructions.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hopefully not very important if you have a lot.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Search on part # Y-8C5 11000   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T19:40:12.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T19:42:42.620" Score="0" ViewCount="864" Body="&lt;p&gt;Face gets extremely red when biking in the cold ~5c, and then going indoors, due to temperature change maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can you wear when biking to prevent this problem, and could you link to a site? Thanks a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18484" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T19:59:04.323" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T20:47:47.443" Title="Face gets extremely red when biking in the cold ~5c, and then going indoors, due to temperature change maybe" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29151" CreationDate="2015-02-24T19:57:11.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't really wear anything to solve the problem you are describing.  If your face was cold, I'd recommend you purchase some sort of mask, however, that isn't your stated problem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you exercise you generate heat, your body tries to channel that away by dilating blood vessels and sending that heat to the surface (your cheeks) where it can radiate away.  If you are cycling when it is cold, it can reinforce that effect since your body would be sending extra blood to try to heat your cold cheeks.  If you have generated a lot of heat cycling, then go indoors, you may also feel extra warm now that you have a lot of generated heat, are dressed for cold weather and in a warm room.  Again, flushed cheeks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regularly bike to work in cold temperatures.  I start wearing a mask at 0F to protect both my lungs and face.  It's a very normal occurrence for me to have red cheeks up to an hour or so after arriving at work.  People sometimes comment, but I know it's normal for me.  I only start to worry if I get white patches (frost nip or no blood flow to areas that were over exposed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T19:57:11.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29148" CreationDate="2015-02-24T20:05:15.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're called stop rings, and are intended to stop caliper bolts from loosening off due to vibration. I've never actually tried to use one - I just apply a medium strength (blue) threadlocker to the caliper bolts instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18416" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T20:05:15.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29148" CreationDate="2015-02-24T20:06:35.067" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stop rings go over the head of the bolt.  The grooves on the ring line up with grooves on the bolt head and encourage it to keep from rattling loose.  They are simply snapped or pushed over the head of the bolt once it is tightened in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that in some country, they may be a requirement for manufacturers.  However, I haven't ever actually used them on any of my rigs.  Some loctite and regular maintenance are what I tend to rely on.  But, if you have had a bolt rattle out on you before, perhaps they could make you sleep easier at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T20:06:35.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29147" CreationDate="2015-02-24T22:05:20.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 9 speed cassette will fit on an 8 speed hub. The extra gear is accommodated using thinner cogs and spacers.  You will also need a new shifter as its the shifter that provides the indexing for the gears. If you also increase the range of gears (increase the largest cassette cog), you may need a new rear deraileur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its possible to run 8 speed chain rings with a 9 speed chain, but you will get better shifting upgrading the chain-rings. In this case, replacing the entire crank set might be cheaper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would be little advantage replacing the deraileurs (especially the front) unless they are worn out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T22:05:20.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29151" CreationDate="2015-02-24T23:03:01.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://mixa.fr/produit/soin-rehydratant-anti-rougeurs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mixa&lt;/a&gt; (facial cream) for winter sports (not just biking in winter). It's great every way -- for general protection of the skin in cold temperatures, as well as reducing the occasional red effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wear a thin cap under the helmet also, clear glasses shaped to the face, and a generous neckscarf. That way, exposure to the elements is minimal. (I'd go mad with a mask though.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17386" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T23:03:01.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29138" CreationDate="2015-02-25T00:47:50.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used deicer and WD-40. I think the WD-40 is what freed it enough for me to force it open. Then I wiped off a rust colored gooey film that it seemed to be getting stuck on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18475" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T00:47:50.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29142" CreationDate="2015-02-25T01:44:16.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newer frames tend to have serial numbers as a sticker rather than a stamp because it is cheaper. Having a stamped serial # or a sticker has almost nothing to do with the quality of the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18486" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T01:44:16.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-25T02:40:54.950" Score="2" ViewCount="1714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got home from a short ride up the street today where there was a lot of clicking and skipping of chain links and when I got home I realized my chain had a ton of slack. After looking around on the internet, I tried moving the rear wheel back, but there's more slack in the chain than there is room to move the rear wheel back, so I'm stuck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cursory understanding of bikes and reading the internet suggests that it could be a stretched out chain or an issue with the derailleur. This is an old steel 12-speed Raleigh. Granted, I don't take the best care of it (not sure where I'm supposed to wash it and store it - I live in a small apartment), but I do depend on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the picture of the state of things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/DI2PP0w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18488" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T08:54:51.443" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T16:31:36.490" Title="Lots of chain slack... Time for a new chain? Bad derailluer?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29160" CreationDate="2015-02-25T03:19:38.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears your rear derailleur pulley cage spring is not doing its job. In your picture, it should be pivoted back towards the right side of the picture, maintaining chain tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to remove and clean out your pulley cage, clean up and lubricate the spring and reassemble it. If that doesn't solve your problem, you'll have to replace the derailleur. You can see how to service many brands here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T16:31:36.490" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T16:31:36.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15181" CreationDate="2015-02-25T08:51:08.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If when looking forward the wind is causing significant noise in your ears, try turning your head to the side. Ninety degrees would be perfect, but I wouldn't go more than is allowing me to see forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawbacks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quite uncomfortable, thus usable only during isolated gusts of wind.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cuts your peripheral vision in one of the two directions, relative to the road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Related to the previous point - with glasses, looking with the corner of your eye will probably result in even more visual distortion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T08:51:08.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2742" CreationDate="2015-02-25T11:45:06.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had precisely this happen luckily I had an aftermarket alu derailleur bolt fitted which snapped saving damage to my frame but the mech, chain and the wheel were right offs ! It's an expensive lesson to learn so don't do it !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add to my answer I wasn't shifting under load just the opposite in fact it was definitely a simultaneous shift down at the front and up at the back and I was riding cobbles at the time which I'm sure was a contributory factor ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18492" LastEditorUserId="18492" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T11:51:23.683" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T11:51:23.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-25T14:26:05.900" Score="1" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older velocity wheelset with their standard 9-speed road hubs. Can I convert these hubs (particularly the rear hub) to bolt on? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T14:56:40.530" Title="Can I convert my velocity 9-speed rear road hub to bolt-on?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;&lt;through-axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29166" CreationDate="2015-02-25T14:56:40.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could get locking skewers (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pitlock&lt;/a&gt;) or skewers which have hex bolts (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/halo-hex-key-skewers-pair/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) [obviously, having a hex key or a 15 mm wrench isn't really secure, but pitlock is more secure], if you want it for the security. But all you need to do is run down to your bike shop with your wheel+skewer and get them to match it to an appropriate solid axle in most cases if you really want a solid axle (since you didn't specify exactly which hub you have, we can't really give more details). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T14:56:40.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-25T15:28:26.167" Score="1" ViewCount="2591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some Dia Compe center pull brakes shown below.  I was wondering what the best type of brake pads are to use for these brakes.  Looking around at pictures on the internet, many people use standard road caliper pads, while others use old style pads rectangular block pads (as in the picture) to preserve the authenticity. I've also seen a few examples of people using v-brake pads. are there any advantages to using a specific type of pad on brakes like this?  I really don't care about esthetics, and I'm really just looking for what will provide the best braking experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NMTOt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dia Compe Brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T14:45:25.983" Title="What kind of brake pads for Dia Compe centre pull brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29011" CreationDate="2015-02-25T16:31:09.970" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it there 9 miles and back 9 miles? Or is it 4.5 miles there and 4.5 miles back? The 4.5 miles won't be difficult. But the 9 miles, like the other posts say, might feel much in the beginning. But you will indeed get in good shape pretty fast if you do it consistently every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About the backpack topic&lt;/strong&gt;, I disagree with the other posts. If you have a good backpack with a curved back, it won't be a problem.&#xA;I've got &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deuter.com/US/us/bike/race-exp-air-32133-123.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; backpack and use it on my 12 km (=7.5 miles) ride to work for 2 years now and it's an absolute delight. The &quot;air comfort&quot; system makes you sweat a lot less than a normal backpack (it's still a bit sweaty, but it's acceptable even on hot days), and the curved back makes it sit perfectly, so you barely notice it.&#xA;Panniers will changes the way your bike behaves: the balance and the mobility will be different. And if you enjoy the way your MTB rides, like me, you won't like it as much with panniers. But these things are of course personal taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18496" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T16:31:09.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29171" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-25T17:05:15.533" Score="2" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone report on how durable the philips lights built into the frame of a Vanmoof city bike are?  I can't tell if being (partially) inside the top tube will protect them, or make them more vulnerable since they'll have to stop the entire bike if you bash them into a bike rack or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18467" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T22:51:58.190" Title="How durable are the lights on a Vanmoof?" Tags="&lt;lighting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29238" CreationDate="2015-02-25T20:27:49.667" Score="2" ViewCount="6286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek FX 7.1 that I've rode for several years now and replaced parts as they've worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'd like to upgrade the whole drive train with Tiagra 2x10 flat bar shifters, derailleurs, crank, cassette, wheels, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is, which bottom bracket do I need to replace the old one? There are choices of english thread or italian thread and 68mm or 70mm. Additionally, if there is a higher quality one someone would recommend over the taigra one, that would be appreciated. Please specify size and thread needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18497" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T15:54:08.710" Title="Which bottom bracket do I need to replace crank on a Trek FX 7.1?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18311" CreationDate="2015-02-25T21:50:10.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you are getting slack during the ride.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This will happen with new cables but if you get it every ride something then else is going on.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is that your barrel adjuster is not holding.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does it look like this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCAtI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;barrel adjuster&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The barrel adjuster should have a lock nut or something to hold it in place.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mark the position with tape or a marker and see if it moves during the ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The M 191 is a lower end Shimano but you should certainly expect much better performance than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And congratulations with getting up to 20-25 miles a day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T22:02:14.667" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T22:02:14.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-26T01:21:37.010" Score="1" ViewCount="945" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to store bicycle tires near electric heaters? I'm wondering if the heat will degrade the rubber somehow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, I'd like to store my bike near the electric baseboard heaters in our apartment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13106" LastEditorUserId="13106" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T17:16:01.140" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T16:18:16.637" Title="Will electric heaters degrade bicycle tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-26T06:54:56.510" Score="6" ViewCount="1453" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a Sturmey Archer 2 speed kick shift hub let you backpedal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A backpedal / coaster brake changes riding technique so much it drives me nuts; I am wondering if you can backpedal at least enough to reposition your pedals for starting (or while doing a track stand using your front brakes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18467" LastActivityDate="2019-05-19T18:54:30.417" Title="Does a Sturmey Archer 2 speed kick shift hub let you backpedal?" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="491" CreationDate="2015-02-26T12:38:04.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crack open the shifter. There are four screws holding it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful to not displace the springs. If you do move the main one, it is meant to be attached over the cable router and within a small hole in the white plastic near the centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for correcting your perceived problem. In general there is a white strip with sprockets. Move the white strip as you see fit. You can test the location as you go along to see where it is at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, I agree with previous posters, if it ain't really broke don't fix it. I wouldn't open the shifter if I didn't really have to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18503" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T13:27:57.363" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T13:27:57.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-26T14:45:47.870" Score="0" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I have Ultegra 6800, but I want to upgrade it with Ultegra Di2. My frame (BMC PRO MACHINE SLC01 2009) compatible with Di2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18504" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T14:45:47.870" Title="Is BMC PRO MACHINE SLC01 2009 compatible with Ultegra Di2?" Tags="&lt;shimano-di2&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28857" CreationDate="2015-02-26T15:05:22.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed mine with 11-28 to 11-32. It makes a big difference. I can climb uphills quite easily now. Also I like the &quot;Spin to Win&quot; idea, and my new cassette makes me to spin more. I strongly recommend for 11-34 or 11-32.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18504" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T15:05:22.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29138" CreationDate="2015-02-26T16:04:46.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things I have tried with success on dodgy locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the angle of the lock makes more of a difference. Heaviest part towards the floor seemed more successful, though another lock like to be horizontal. There are some balls/bolts that pull in on lock. The angle can help assist &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pushing key in a varying depths and wiggling to free the lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Load of wd-40. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pushing and pulling the Lock part while trying the key. Ensure the bolts are binding better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cool it (i.e waited till night)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12757" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T16:04:46.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21437" CreationDate="2015-02-26T16:32:25.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using GarminConnect and it does have one feature that helps with reminders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You estimate a lifespan and enter it. Garmin then creates a simple pie chart with per centage to show how far along you have in miles toward that estimated lifespan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I tend to wear out tires fast due to my large body frame &amp;amp; weight of 205 so I've been watching for tires that perform. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I entered an estimated 2,000 miles lifespan for my new GatorSkin tires and each time I enter milage to Garmin, that chart updates and shows me status. Currently, I'm about 35% through my estimated 2,000 mile lifespan on those tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'd rather have a stand alone product rather than have to access Garmin for that information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18506" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T16:32:25.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29175" CreationDate="2015-02-26T17:07:32.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on a lot of hows including (but not limited to) close, hot, long, and manufactured.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most well manufactured tires that are mounted and aired up will mostly suffer from air loss.  As the tire and tube heats up, the pressure rises and the tendency to leak a bit of pressure over time will be exaggerated.  Tubeless setups utilizing juice may see that juice evaporate/dissipate quicker.  Tire/tube setups that were recently inflated to max pressures in much colder environments may actually blow out (happened one time when I left a wheel in front of a sunny window).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about storing your bike along side a baseboard heater or similar, you are probably going to be ok short of actually leaning the tires directly against the heat source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T17:07:32.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29168" CreationDate="2015-02-26T17:18:37.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back when those were The Brake, the pad to use was the Scott Mathauser pad.  The compound was soft, reminiscent of a pink pencil eraser. While no longer made, there are several brands that offer similar compound: Yokozuna and Kool-Stop come to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will likely have to order pads to fit those calipers. It does appear as if Yokozuna actually still sells the blocks that are installed in the pair of Dia-Compe Gran Compe calipers that sit untouched since the late 80s in my parts bin.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yokozunausa.com/screbl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.yokozunausa.com/screbl.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That pad style is similar to Campagnolo, so if you have an LBS that stocks Campy stuff, you might be able to get something similar and install them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T17:18:37.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29192" CreationDate="2015-02-26T20:14:40.710" Score="3" ViewCount="3807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace the entire drivetrain on my circa 2000 MTB commuter. Quality groupsets all seem to use external bearings these days. Replacing my current cartridge bottom bracket for a modern external bearing BB is my main compatibility concern. What information do I need from my frame and a prospective groupset to determine if it will fit my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head, I guess I need to know my frame's BB shell width and thread and the chainline. What else? Where do I find the corresponding info for the new parts, particularly Shimano? Anything I need to look out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;The bike needs new a new bottom bracket, chainrings, chain, 8speed cassette and front derailleur. Replacing them individually costs almost as much as a complete modern groupset (which includes new levers, rear mech and two more gears).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not buy a new bike? Three reasons. One economic: the steel frame is sound, the wheels and brakes are new, and bikes of comparable quality are much more expensive than a new groupset. One philosophical: I don't like throwing things out while they still work. One emotional/irrational: I like my bike, it's been good to me, and I want to do right by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18508" LastEditorUserId="18508" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T08:26:31.587" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T08:26:31.587" Title="Converting from square spline to external bearings, what do I need to know?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29189" CreationDate="2015-02-26T22:24:15.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that spindle length is independant of the frame, and depends only on the crankset. This makes the shimano external bearing system is easy to install since the cups work with any standard BB shell width, and the spindle is integral to the right crank of the crankset (i.e. no worries about 113/117.5/123mm etc... spindles as you would have to consider for square taper to achieve a correct chainline). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a shimano Hollowtech II external bearing MTB setup you'll just need to know the threading (almost certainly English) of the BB shell, and the width (68mm or 73mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your width is 68mm then you'll use the spacers included with the external bearing BB assembly when screwing the cups into the frame, and if 73mm then you don't use the spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then install the Hollowtech II crankset by inserting it through the BB, attach the left crank arm, and tighten the correct bolts to secure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is as close to plug and play as you can get really. However, you will have to consider what number of speeds (7/8/9/10?) your drivetrain is and match the crankset for optimal performance. I've only ever seen 9spd and up external bearing setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18416" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T22:24:15.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29189" CreationDate="2015-02-26T22:26:01.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You actually guessed the only thing that you really need to watch out for: the BB shell width. And you don't even necessarily need that until you're actually putting it all together. Almost all BB shells are 68 or 73 mm. Most of the external BB's come built for a 73 mm shell and include a spacer for a 68 mm shell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bottom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;odds are really &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; good&lt;/a&gt; that the threads and diameter coform to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#british&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;British I.S.O. standard&lt;/a&gt;. If you have reason to think that your bike is non-standard, I'd recommend taking it to a shop and they can tell you what you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your mountiain bike is a single speed, you don't need to worry about chainline. They're pretty standard and a derailleur adjustment will take care of any deviation from your current setup. If it is single speed, the BB isn't where you'll be looking to get that right. It's not like a cartridge-style BB where you can just get a different length spindle. Instead, you move the chain rings to the inner or outer side of the spider and/or mess with spacers in the rear wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T22:26:01.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29199" CreationDate="2015-02-26T23:47:32.280" Score="1" ViewCount="2278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any advantages in having a 700x25 tyre over a 700x23 when using a cycle trainer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are &quot;training&quot;, resistance is surely not a huge deal breaker. I assume cycle trainer tyres last a fair amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is just a way of transferring energy to a roller, I assume a bigger tyre will do that more efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14129" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T04:36:53.980" Title="Tyre size and Turbo Trainers" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29195" CreationDate="2015-02-26T23:50:44.527" Score="1" ViewCount="1153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have faith in Sheldon and Jobst's arguments about hydroplaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not understand the action of a wheel locking up (entering a skid), other than the intuitive level of braking ~&gt; locks up / doesn't lock up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not understand why the rear locks up more readily on wet asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today my rear wheel locked up much more readily, and surprisingly sooner than I would have expected—given that I expected early locking up behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does the rear wheel more readily lock-up on wet asphalt than on dry asphalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already read this answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6444/what-is-the-recommended-type-of-tire-for-riding-on-wet-pavement/6460#6460&quot;&gt;What is the recommended type of tire for riding on wet pavement?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm running 47-559 marathon pluses, the bike &amp;amp; load is 20kg ish, I'm 110kg ish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal answer would give both the science, and render it in a form that a humanities cyclist like myself can comprehend even if by analogy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4444" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T00:55:38.367" Title="What is the cause of earlier rear wheel lock-ups in the wet?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29194" CreationDate="2015-02-27T00:55:38.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When pavement is wet (or icy, or loose, etc) it has a lower coefficient of friction.  Which means that less force is necessary to break from static state (tire gripping the pavement) to a sliding state (tire locked up and sliding).  Braking forces rely on static friction, or the grip the tire has on the pavement.  It may seem contrary, but while you are riding your tire surface enjoys a static relationship with the ground.  The surface of your tire rolls, but each individual patch of tire touches the ground and remains in contact with it (your contact patch) as the tire rotates around.  When you brake with a lower coefficient of static friction and generate enough force, you overcome that static frictional force and move to a sliding frictional force (your tire slips).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T00:55:38.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1157" CreationDate="2015-02-27T00:58:35.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case someone still reads this, in addition to protecting the valve, you can cut the plastic top off with a knife or razor blade at a gas station and you have an instant Schrader adapter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18512" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T00:58:35.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29175" CreationDate="2015-02-27T01:06:37.063" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Electric baseboard heaters are entirely resistive heat, so there should be no problem assuming the temperature isn't extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What becomes a problem is if you store the wheels near a DC electric motor that uses brushes. These produce a small amount of ozone, which contributes to the premature destruction of tire rubber.   Most AC motors are brushless, so are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you should know that some air purifiers work by producing ozone. In addition, some office equipment such as older photocopiers also have DC motors that produce a lot of ozone. These have mostly been phased out because of health concerns but are responsible for the characteristic smell of copy machines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T01:51:11.200" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T01:51:11.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2940" CreationDate="2015-02-27T03:03:14.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the older version of this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vaude.com/en-FI/Products/Luggage-Bags/Bike-Bags/Discover-Box-meadow-black.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vaude Discover Box&lt;/a&gt; for long touring and found it indispensable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sen9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sen9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Vaude Discover Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always had a map in the map pocket and kept all the stuff I needed ready access to in the bag/box i.e. wallet, camera, snacks, etc.  It opens from the rider side so you can access it on the move and it unclips so you can take it with you when you stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17180" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T10:36:48.427" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T10:36:48.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29193" CreationDate="2015-02-27T04:36:53.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bigger tire will give you slightly higher gearing due to the higher diameter. You should get a trainer specific tire, as the compounds are harder to prevent overheating/excessive tire wear. Your tire isn't slipping against the roller on the trainer in either case, so the power transfer argument is relatively moot (theres rolling resistance and what not, but its not something you should be worrying about on a trainer...). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why you'd get a 700x25 tire over a 700x23 tire would be that if your rim was wider, it may support a 700x25 tire &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;better&lt;/a&gt;.  This is why some trainer tires are produced in 700x23 and 700x32 (e.g. Continental Hometrainer-- the larger size will fit some 29ers barely, which have wider rims). Most road racing bikes are designed for 23's so its easiest to ship 23's, which most trainer tires are, for road bikes. Also, there exist frames which will rub with a 25 but not a 23.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TL;DR version: pick whichever one you want, provided your frame doesn't rub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I didn't find anyone actually producing a trainer tire for 700x25 -- there are training tires for 700x25 but they're for the road, not for the trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T04:36:53.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29201" CreationDate="2015-02-27T04:46:36.233" Score="0" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought that it might be a fault of Oil seal but Mechanic was telling that I have to replace both the fork If I replace only the Oil &amp;amp; Oil seal then again It will leak oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a dangerous problem and should I replace both the forks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an image found on this blog&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.in/2012/04/same-sad-story.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.in/2012/04/same-sad-story.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ifl6S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fork found on the internet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18514" LastEditorUserId="18514" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T04:56:55.397" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T06:11:00.593" Title="Front wheel Fork is having scratches and Oil is getting leaked from it?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29200" CreationDate="2015-02-27T06:11:00.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That stanchion is stuffed and needs to be replaced.  If the damage is from normal wear and tear the other will need replacement - probably cheaper to get a whole new fork. If its accident damage (e.g from rubbing while on a car rack) and the other is in very good condition, replacing the damaged one is an option (if you can find a single replacement). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the oil will buy you a couple of rides and a mess to clean up at the end of each one, and the shock will not perform particularly well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not really a dangerous problem, but the fork will not be working properly and will sag under load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T06:11:00.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17883" CreationDate="2015-02-27T09:49:01.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tenba, Ape, Timbuktu and a number of other camera bag manufacturers' sell the inserts used in their bags separately. Do a search on Amazon for 'camera bag insert'. These fit well inside Ortlieb Office Panniers. However, most of these inserts are limited to carrying a standard DSLR without a vertical battery grip. Like other water-resistant panniers, it takes a bit of time to gain access to your equipment using this approach. I have used this approach for several years. I typically carry a Canon 7D, 100-400mm zoom, 24-105mm zoom, 100m macro, 1.4x teleconverter, flash, better beamer, and filters spread across two rear panniers mounted to a Tubus Disco rack. I carry spare camera batteries, some filters, cleaning materials, and CF cards in an Ortlieb Handlebar bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ortlieb and Carradice offer some large bags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Carradice Super C Rear Panniers can carry up to 54 liters and are the largest panniers I could find. The dimensions posted on various web sites tend to vary considerably and I was unable to find one to learn more about what could be inserted inside the pannier because of its shape. Still looking for one of these before the spring cycling season starts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard Ortlieb rear panniers have a tapered height but their office panniers are rectangular and were the source of my original solution. In looking at their latest bags, the Ortlieb Vario Commuter Backpack Pannier is a cross between an Ortlieb Pannier and Ortlieb Backpack and has a 20 liter capacity. However the 7.9&quot; depth might make them ideal for carrying Pro bodies inside a larger insert or something like a Vanguard Divider Bag 40 Camera Bag. The Vanguard bag is a small suitcase like bag with padded dividers. The 11&quot; width of the Vanguard bag and the 11&quot; width of the backpack pannier may prevent this from becoming a solution. Again, I am searching around for a store with these in stock to determine if the Vanguard bags will fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18516" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T09:49:01.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29213" CreationDate="2015-02-27T10:10:31.007" Score="2" ViewCount="3678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've cut my first cable housing using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/housing-length&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this ParkTool page&lt;/a&gt; as a guide. The thing is, I think it's a bit too long. Can I safely shorten it or the length is good as it is now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oAXmX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cut 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; 7.5cm less, is it better now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WYJLO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cut 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-02-28T07:36:16.683" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T07:36:16.683" Title="Rear derailleur cable housing length" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29205" CreationDate="2015-02-27T11:40:36.617" Score="6" ViewCount="1573" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why can't we purchase chain by the meter, in any length, instead of in fixed lengths? Then the chain could be cut to the exact length required, unlike current situation of throwing away several links. This might not be beneficial for end users, but what about large bike shops or even OEM bike manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T22:51:29.497" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T23:43:29.193" Title="Why are chains sold in fixed lengths rather than by the meter?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29204" CreationDate="2015-02-27T13:52:41.177" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;They do. Connex (Wipperman) sells bulk chain, as shown by this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cantitoeroad.com/Connex-10s8-25m-Shop-Reel-of-Bicycle-Chain_p_131.html&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://t-cycle.com/idlers-chain-management-c-41/chain-management-accessories-c-41_69/bulk-kmc-x993-chain-p-35.html&quot;&gt;these people&lt;/a&gt; also buy it by the spool. This is likely what bike manufacturers do, and I've seen it in a bike shop or two. I'm sure you can also get it at some place like McMaster-Carr or Grainger if you ask for ANSI #40 roller chain with the appropriate width (possibly by special order). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only bikes which use bigger chains than a standard chains are custom, longtails, tandems or recumbents -- its just more convenient for 99.999% of the people to just get a standard length chain [and many of these are pretty close to just taking multiple chains joined together]. As for the few extra links &quot;waste&quot;, they come in useful sometimes when you need to do a repair. And in net, its probably cheaper to just pick up a little plastic box which has a slightly larger chain than going to the LBS and asking the girl to break the chain to the exact number of links you need (remember, she needs to get paid and do the daunting task of counting/comparing the # of links in your old chain to the new chain provided you actually brought the old chain in. if you didn't do that, she has to assume you didn't muck up the # of links in the chain and you wont complain if your new chain ends up too short). And its quicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T13:52:41.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-27T14:30:33.637" Score="5" ViewCount="1642" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;em&gt;Giant Esprit Twist Power&lt;/em&gt; electric bike, which apart from not having nearly enough words in its name also has a problem related to the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I put a lot of load through the pedals there is a loud clanking sound, once per pedal-press. If, as I cycle, I press with just one foot (and just lightly follow-through with the other) then I get the noise once and then not again until I start pressing with the other foot. This suggests to me that the problem is related to something shifting position in response to the side of the bike on which the pedalling force occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curiously, although the noise is extremely pronounced, I don't think I can feel anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no play I can feel in the bottom bracket, and likewise the pedals seem to spin smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The torque-sensing chainset arrangement seems like a possible source for the noise, I'm just not sure how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess my questions are...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can a bottom bracket bearing make this kind of noise without feeling rough or loose?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone have any advice to offer about this kind of torque plate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the dismantled torque-plate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDnYZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Giant electric bike torque plate / chainset combo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18518" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T02:14:39.300" Title="Why is my electric bike 'clanking' under load?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16035" CreationDate="2015-02-27T16:52:19.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in the day, cable ends were soldered. You could easily do the same thing with standard pipe solder. But the easiest solution is to roll past your LBS and ask them for a cable end which they will likely install for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T16:52:19.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29211" CreationDate="2015-02-27T17:10:43.423" Score="20" ViewCount="2737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was about to buy this bike (a Gazelle Arroyo c7):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2LRi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of the Gazelle Arroyo c7&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gazelle-fietsen.be/assortiment/arroyo-c7&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.gazelle-fietsen.be/assortiment/arroyo-c7&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when I realized the chaincase is seemingly deliberately designed so that the chain constantly rubs against the bottom while you pedal.  Their website mentions something about aesthetics. This seems too bad to be true, given that Gazelle has a good reputation as a Dutch bike brand, and this isn't a cheap bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is really going on inside the chaincase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I did buy the bike and 5 years later and I'm still riding it daily. The chain got noisy and I replaced it once. The cables all died, and the plastic shimano gear shifter is in bad shape but still mostly works. I've broken a few spokes but the wheels have so many the wheels stayed ride-able until I replaced them. Maybe it's notable that I haven't had a single derailment in all 5 years? For me the drivetrain has been extremely reliable. In  the 5 years this bike only stranded me once (with a flat tire, before I upgraded to schwalbe marathon pluses). Once the gearhub had annoying problems due to a known manufacturing problem in a certain manufacturing plant, and was replaced for free at my local shop at shimano's expense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18467" LastEditorUserId="18467" LastEditDate="2020-07-03T06:07:07.867" LastActivityDate="2021-05-28T13:25:32.620" Title="What is the deal with the new weird Gazelle chain case design?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21879" CreationDate="2015-02-27T20:46:04.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember doing this last year. You need a way to keep the spring-loaded part (on the left in your pictures) out of the way while you move the other part into the correct position where you can attach the screw. If I remember correctly, I did this by sticking a long screwdriver between the axle and the spring-loaded part and holding it with one hand while using the other hand to position the loose part and putting at least one screw in to hold it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T20:46:04.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29208" CreationDate="2015-02-27T22:01:23.850" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found an English Language site that explains it. From &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycle-heaven.co.uk/bikes/brands/gazelle/gazelle-chamonix-c7-women-s-2015/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cycle-heaven.co.uk/bikes/brands/gazelle/gazelle-chamonix-c7-women-s-2015/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Chamonixs feature Gazelle's innovative transmission design with a&#xA;  chain tensioner inside the chain case. This keeps the chain always at&#xA;  the correct tension, needing less maintenance and giving a quieter&#xA;  ride. The frame is able to use vertical rear droputs which makes wheel&#xA;  removal and puncture repairs much easier.  We also think it gives the&#xA;  bike a more streamlined look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's called the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=706503249430312&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FlowLine chaincase&lt;/a&gt; - here's a picture of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hwM3K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FlowLine chaincase cutaway&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's not what you think. I can't say whether it's a good idea or not, but it seems at least a plausible solution for a City Bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="7375" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T02:19:06.063" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T02:19:06.063" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29203" CreationDate="2015-02-27T22:38:07.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's too long, and you should cut it again to get it closer to the right length.  As a guideline, you could look at pictures of similar bikes online and cut you own cable housing so that the curve ends up about the same.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's too short, the curve is too tight, and that adds friction.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's too long, it adds a bit of friction, and you can get things caught in it when you ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T22:38:07.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29203" CreationDate="2015-02-27T22:44:33.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's too long, and it may get into the spokes.Roughly, you can cut the 1/3 of the current cable housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18504" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T22:44:33.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-28T00:11:14.377" Score="2" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently swapped over my disc brake pads, but discovered that the pistons lightly scrape the rotor when not braking, and when I am braking it doesn't make much of a difference and it allows me to pull my lever all the way to the handlebar. Shimano Deore brakes btw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18522" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T07:20:25.053" Title="How to increase range of disc brake pistons?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-28T02:27:33.663" Score="6" ViewCount="2666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard often that you should replace a worn chain, that a chain lasts somewhere between 800-1200 miles, and that if you don't replace the chain on time, you'll need to replace the cassette when you get a new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this: instead of going through 4 or 5 chains between cassette replacement, what is the downside of riding the same chain until the cog needs replacement? And, if you do that, how long would you be able to do so? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18524" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T15:59:18.953" Title="Why bother changing a chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29216" CreationDate="2015-02-28T02:43:42.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long a single chain or cassette will last depends heavily on the riding conditions.  For example, do you weigh 50kg or 150kg?  Do you ride a road bike in fair weather, or a touring bike on salted snowy roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're of average weight and riding in decent weather, you may find a single chain can last several thousand miles before it should be replaced.  But you don't need to wonder, you can measure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a chain gauge like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-wear-indicator-CC-3-2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool CC-3.2&lt;/a&gt;, and you can quickly measure your chain in a repeatable manner.  Or you can use a ruler, if you don't mind a bit more fiddling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the chain is worn beyond the recommended amount, you should replace it to avoid undue wear on the cassette.  However, you are right to observe that you could also &quot;ride it into the ground,&quot; replacing the chain and cassette only at the last moment when they are no longer functioning properly.  You'll probably need to replace at least one of your chainrings (up front) then too, but that's OK.  You won't save money this way though, because the chain is the cheapest part to replace.  And you'll likely end up breaking your chain (because in this line of thinking, why else would you replace it?).  Having a chain break while riding is not only inconvenient, it's dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T02:43:42.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29216" CreationDate="2015-02-28T07:06:25.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you replace the chains early, you can get way more than 4 or 5 chains per cassette. A chain is about the cheapest part to replace on a bike and it's certainly the cheapest part of the drive train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my bikes has had the same cassette since at least 2006, that cassette has over 10K km on it and it shifts like brand new with almost no signs of wear. I'd guess it's been through somewhere around 15 chains. I replace my chains as soon as they show any wear with &#xA;the Park CC-2 chain gauge. ( New chains generally read 0.5, I replace them at 0.75)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using standard low end cassettes than you can get for $50, this kind of care may not be worth it. However, I have a custom cassette (14-30) that I cobbled together &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k9.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown style&lt;/a&gt;, this would be relatively expensive and difficult to replace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride the chain/cassette into the ground together, it's going to get progressively worse until either the chain fails or the teeth on the cogs snap off due to wear. You won't get anywhere near 10K km. Having a chain break can sometimes lead to injuries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the chain starts to wear, it essentially grinds on the gears with every pedal stroke; the whole thing goes downhill quickly. If the chain shows wear at 800 miles, you'll start having problems at 1000 miles. How soon you replace things after that depends on your tolerance for an imperfect drivetrain; the problem is that the gears do not wear evenly. The least used gears stay at the &quot;old&quot; chain spacing and get harder and harder to use over time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can often get away with not replacing the chainrings when you replace a worn cassette,&#xA;but if you really run it into the ground, you may have to replace at least the smaller chainring as well. In particular, the smallest rings on a triple can be quickly destroyed in just a few days of riding with a worn chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead if you pay attention to the chain wear, buy chains on sale ( $20 at the end of the summer. ), you'll have a gear train that works as good as new it's whole life. I fully expect to get at least another 10K km out of that cassette and the chainrings should likely last as long as I ride that bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably argue the economics either way, I don't include the cost of my time in dealing with chain maintenance. And while I spend more on chains than most people, I spend a lot less on cassettes and chainrings. It comes down to how much you enjoy working on bikes, having well working shifting and how long you plan to keep the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-02-28T07:23:24.670" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T07:23:24.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29215" CreationDate="2015-02-28T07:20:25.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can pull the lever all the way to the handlebar while not getting much braking force, then it is very likely that you somehow got air into the system somewhere, and you need to bleed the entire brake system.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Perhaps when you were changing the pads, you pulled the brake lever while the pads were removed, which would allow the pistons to come out too far ?  That would let air into the caliper, which would lead to the symptom you described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T07:20:25.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29216" CreationDate="2015-02-28T07:27:43.240" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cost of replacing worn parts is one part of the issue with excessive chain stretch, safety is another component. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Safety&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of problem will take a while to emerge, but if you are going to run the drivetrain into the ground, at some point your safety may be compromised. Excessively worn chains may break, or skip over excessively worn gears.  At some point you can wear the gears so much you can shear the teeth right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this happens when riding out of the saddle (e.g., accelerating hard or climbing) you can actually be thrown off the bike and into traffic, crash and hit your head, crash your sensitive bits into the stem, or otherwise be embarrassed.  The list goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will this &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; happen to you? Who knows, but you should know that it is a risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Total Cost of Ownership&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you let the chain wear excessively you will at some point have to replace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain Rings; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Derailleur pulley wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain rings alone can be the cost of 2-3 chains depending on the quality of rings you go for (more if you have a triple chainring).  Cassettes usually cost the price of about 2 chains. Let's put the price of derailleur pulleys at 1 chain (this is up for debate). And a chain costs the price of 1 chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That brings the total cost of a drive train to 7 chains.  You would therefore need to get about 6000-8400 miles out of your single chain before the economics &lt;em&gt;start&lt;/em&gt; to be in your favour.  Do you think you can do it or will the chain break and become a mangled unusable mess?  When that happens you are stuck replacing everything. Even if you hit 6000-8400 mark, how far beyond it will you get?  Only after 8400 miles are you starting to save.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also don't forget that a really worn drivetrains shift horribly so you will also need to factor that into the cost somehow.  Is a louse experience worth saving a few dollars?  Only you can answer that question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only place where this strategy might work is for single speeds as cogs and rings are relatively cheaper and shifting is a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T07:27:43.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29222" CreationDate="2015-02-28T12:03:07.847" Score="1" ViewCount="6285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my chain jump off on my fixed gear when I hit a pothole, and it's gotten completely wedged between the cog and the flange of the hub. I've removed the lockring but can't get a chain whip around the cog to loosen it and the chain is &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; wedged tight in there – no amount of force I've been able to generate has budged it at all. Any suggestions for how I might get the cog loose to free the chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oOsBH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CueSB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="33" LastEditDate="2015-02-28T12:25:11.147" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T00:54:32.860" Title="Fixie chain stuck between cog and hub" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29221" CreationDate="2015-02-28T12:25:28.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, I managed to do this one one of my bikes once. There was no way I could brute force the chain from between the cassette and the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to use a vice, or do you have one of those Workmate things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I'd do is to break the chain and get the whole &quot;wheel and chain&quot; mess away from the frame. It just gives you more room to work. Then, I'd clamp the teeth of the cog in the vice (as I say, I've had good results with my Workmate). Then you undo the lockring, which admittedly can be fiddly. If it has been on a while it will be tight, as you have discovered, and you might need to use a mallet to coax it loose. (I have tried chain whips in the past too, but never even bother nowadays, a vice is far more efficient.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have any way of clamping the cog, the only other suggestion is to take the wheel to a shop, who will use their vice to loosen it. With the right tools, it is really only a 30-second job so you may be able to sweettalk them into doing it for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, you should probably spend some time thinking about how this happened. Could be you just got a jump because the chain was loose, but it is probably worth checking your chainline to satisfy yourself that everything is ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to check your spokes for any damage from the chain.....better to replace them now, while you've taken things apart, than have them break later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-02-28T12:38:21.240" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T12:38:21.240" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29216" CreationDate="2015-02-28T15:34:26.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know, I have done some 5k miles on my second hand bike (I assume chain already had miles on it) since I bought it a year ago and it shifts well and I hadn't even thought of chain replacement before... I live on a hill and I change gears quite often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T15:34:26.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-28T15:44:39.257" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something i noticed on my climbs is that i really struggle the first 4 5 km. I feel very uncomfortable and at some point its like my body gets used to the lactate. It's like a switch. I can ride literally out of the saddle with high wattage relative to me for few minutes, after which i can sit down with no problems to keep a decent wattage. Any one with the same observations ? What if i do a warm up in the morning with some high intensity to get lactate in my muscles and in the afternoon do the climb, do you think that's a good idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14444" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T22:54:16.317" Title="Lactate feeling" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29224" CreationDate="2015-02-28T20:06:16.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the climb - approaching the climb too fast could build up lactate faster than your muscles can clear it down. But your blood vessels dilate to increase blood supply to and from the muscles during the harder work - it could be the effect you are seeing later on in the climb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding of the difference between fast twitch and slow twitch muscle fibre... Fast twitch are great for bursts of speed and sprints but build lactate fast. Slow twitch are better adapted to endurance &amp;amp; the steady grind. Slow twitch fibre also has a better blood supply which makes them great for clearing down of lactate build-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, ease into a climb. Find your own steady pace and rhythm. Alternate riding position from in to out of saddle to recruit different muscle groups in the legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T20:06:16.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29224" CreationDate="2015-02-28T22:54:16.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure the physiological reasons but that does happen. Also, sometimes I go for a strava segment uphill, so I warm up, say 15 minutes... Well, I have started to go hard on the warm up, and longer, because I get better results coming back from an hour ride of some 40 minutes uphill, then hitting the segment, than if I go fresh with a 15 minutes warm up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T22:54:16.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29216" CreationDate="2015-03-01T01:36:43.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the comments. I am relatively convinced, but, I have to say, almost all the comments about the downside seem to come from people who haven't had those things happen to them. And if someone did have a chain break, how long or how many miles did they put on them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my part, I've ridden some 150,000 miles over 30 years (5,000-6,000 miles a year), and have never had any of the horribles happen to me - - though, admittedly, I've never pushed a chain or cluster all the way to the limits. Nor have I ever heard of anyone even having to replace the chainrings. And, I've ridden up and down hills and mountains (live in the San Francisco Bay Area), in good weather and bad, and ridden aggressively and on multi-day tours. I've let some chains go for much longer than recommended, and, only when I change a chain do I get any negative symptoms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, why would the rear cluster gears, which get used most, wear so fast, when the chainwheel, which only has 2 or maybe 3 gears, never seem to wear? And, I never have trouble with the chain at anything like 1,000 miles - - except I have to change the cluster if I don't change the chain by about that point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I measured with a Park CC-3 or whatever, and my chain sat between .75 and 1.0 or whatever the upper measurement is. I put on a new chain, and the highest gears now skip (even though the middle gears on the cluster are the ones I ride most often). Admittedly, the tool is the old version of the chain measurer that Park has . . . guess I'll just break out the ruler from now on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I figure it, if the cost of a cluster is about twice the cost of a chain, you'd have to go through the equivalent of missing two chain changes to come out equal. Also, if you can buy chains off-season at reduced prices, the same holds true for clusters. The biggest trouble is finding the spot where your ride doesn't start deteriorating . . . has anyone ridden a chain so long the shifting isn't very good, or it starts skipping from wear? Also, I have to take the cluster into the LBS for service because I have never mastered switching clusters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again, not arguing, just trying to get at the truth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18524" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T01:36:43.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="491" CreationDate="2015-03-01T02:47:40.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Chris Leon, if the shifting mechanism is functioning properly, this is just a cable tension issue. You can adjust the derailleur cable yourself or if it's a new bike the shop will generally do free adjustment at 30 days. I have often overtightened my front derailleur cable and had to back it off. It's actually a pretty good project to work on if you're interested in servicing the bike yourself. You can do it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T02:47:40.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29216" CreationDate="2015-03-01T03:04:34.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One alternative is to purchase a stainless steel chain such as the Wipperman Connex, which will last a very long time, but will no longer be the cheapest part of the drivetrain. Most everything has been covered in previous answers (really good thorough answers too. Shouldn't you people be out riding or fixing bikes or something?). I would just add that it's not worth buying good parts if you're not going to take care of them. If you don't replace you're chain, you're going to walk into your shop one day and they're going to say, &quot;You need to replace your entire drivetrain.&quot; or any new chain you put on is going to skip like a little girl on her way home from school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T03:04:34.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17883" CreationDate="2015-03-01T03:21:18.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend two bags. First, use a handlebar bag for your photographic gear. You can either use the foam inserts as suggested above or I believe there are some dedicated camera bags for the front of your bike. This gives you easy access to your camera but it also ensures that your camera equipment is securely held.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your laptop, etc. I recommend a pannier with a dedicated laptop sleeve that hangs internally i.e. not sitting on the bottom of the bag. One thing I would caution you about are panniers that are essentially one big bag, and you throw everything in. It's useful for groceries, but having various pockets is very helpful. Many manufacturers now are making bags that are convertible into messenger bags or backpacks and that have multiple compartments so you can stash things securely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T03:21:18.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-01T05:27:20.063" Score="3" ViewCount="22730" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I'm clueless and am piecing together what little information I know from reading this site and from watching YouTube 'intro to repair' videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been gifted a used mountain bike, my first since I was a kid. It had a few issues, though. I managed to fix the brakes, but the shifter is giving me problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike in description is a Giant Boulder SE from the 1990s. It's got 3 speeds on the front and 7 on the rear, and operates using thumb switches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Main problem&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't switch gears on the front at all. By loosening the shifter cable a little, I gained the ability to &lt;em&gt;click through&lt;/em&gt; the gears, but the derailleur/chain never makes any changes. It's always stuck on the outermost ring of the front... set of rings. (Cassette, I think.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the larger ring represents a higher gear, but clicking through to top gear and then lowering it back down to 1 does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At top gear, the shifter cable tension is such that I can get a finger between it and the frame, and wobble it about 5mm, but it's still taught. On first and second gear, the cable is much looser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a problem because riding in first gear kind of sucks, and by kind of, I mean &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried adjusting the limit screws. At first, I saw some movement, but now tightening &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; loosening either screw seems to do nothing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Secondary problem&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear shifter starts at 7th/top gear and 'releases' downward, towards gears with less resistance. I can go between 5th, 6th, and 7th gears, but trying to go any lower than 5 won't work, as there's just too much resistance from the shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is a huge deal, because 1st-in-front-5th-in-rear is a plenty low enough gear to get started/climb the kind of hills I'll be climbing anytime soon. But I thought I'd mention it anyway. My instinct is that this means the cable is too taut, but my instincts are garbage because as I said, I'm clueless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help here would be really appreciated. Can't really afford to take it into a shop or that's what I'd do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18529" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T16:23:51.580" Title="Can't shift front gear, despite loosening, tightening, etc. What could be wrong?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-01T08:38:32.897" Score="3" ViewCount="8278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have noticed that the rear derailleur springs and pulleys are picking up lots of road gunk.  I use a wax for the chain and as this breaks off I can see it getting stuck on the pulleys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after cleaning out the chain and rear derailleur with citrus degreaser can you use PTFE spray, as in WD40 400ml High Performance PTFE Lubricant on the rear derailleur spring.  PTFE is basically teflon, but does it then over coat the spring and restrict movement ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="912" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T09:58:39.773" Title="Using PTFE spray on rear derailleur springs" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29231" CreationDate="2015-03-01T08:45:41.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally there would be a fairly strong spring that would be pushing the front derailleur towards the smallest chainring (easier gear).  You mentioned that you have already attempted to set the limit screw that determines how far the front derailleur can move towards the smallest chainring. If you have done this correctly, and it still doesn't move far enough in that direction, then there are 2 possibilities: (1) the spring that pushes the derailleur towards the inside (smaller chainring) is broken, or (2) the derailleur is stopped by some other obstacle.&#xA;It's hard to say for sure what's going on without seeing it, but you should verify that the derailleur is aligned properly, which could affect (2) above.  The 'cage' of the derailleur (the part that touches/pushes the chain when shifting) should be parallel to the chainrings, and its height should be such that it barely clears the top of the largest chainring (about 2mm gap).  If it's mounted too low, it might be hitting the chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take another look at the limit screws. By pulling on the cable by hand so the derailleur moves a little, figure out which screw limits the movement of the derailleur towards the inside (easier gear). Make sure that screw is adjusted so it's out of the way as much as possible, and not keeping the derailleur from moving in that direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T08:45:41.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29236" CreationDate="2015-03-01T10:16:24.000" Score="1" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can any Shimano MTB rear derailleur be mounted to a type 1 (206375) Scott derailleur hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a type 1 derailleur hanger with a Shimano STX rear derailleur mounted and like to mount a Shimano XT rear derailleur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tBPYr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;derailleur hanger, rear/side&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWT4b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;derailleur hanger, top&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w9tto.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;derailleur hanger, side&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d6Bu0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;derailleur hanger, top/side&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is, because last year I wanted to temporarily replace my derailleur with a Shimano Alivio 8 speed derailleur because the old one was damaged, but I had problems mounting the derailleur in the correct position/angle. I was able to screw it tight, but only in a strage direction. I finally gave up and managed to repair my old derailleur faster then expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'd like to upgrade to a 9 speed cassette, gearshift and rear derailleur and remembering that problem back then makes me ask the same question again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Products in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bike-components.de/en/Scott/Ausfallenden-Schaltaugen-p30245/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bike-components.de/en/Scott/Ausfallenden-Schaltaugen-p30245/&lt;/a&gt; (type 1: last photo)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/XT-Schaltwerk-Shadow-RD-M772-9-fach-p16320/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.bike-components.de/en/Shimano/XT-Schaltwerk-Shadow-RD-M772-9-fach-p16320/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12607" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T15:51:18.650" Title="Can any MTB rear derailleur be mounted to a Scott type 1 MTB derailleur hanger?" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29234" CreationDate="2015-03-01T15:51:18.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thread on a derailleur fixing bolt is typically 10mm x 1mm thread pitch.  For almost any standard derailleur, that will be correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few very new designs on the market which might not fit, namely Shimano's new direct mount derailleur system, but that would be a special order in most shops at this stage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything on the market for 9 speed mountain should fit a 10 x 1 thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, no, not any derailleur will mount to your Scott derailleur hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As a practical matter, yes, you are pretty safe ordering any 9 speed MTB derailleur, and it will work.  And if it looks like the same mount, it will be.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it sounds like you may have cross threaded your derailleur hanger when you tried to change it the first time, so you may also want to pick up a spare derailleur hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T15:51:18.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29241" CreationDate="2015-03-01T17:57:12.400" Score="1" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to order a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marinbikes.com/ca/bikes/description/2015-lombard-elite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marin Lombard Elite&lt;/a&gt; from my LBS but I want to replace the FSA BB and crankset with Shimano or SRAM parts, and change to a 52/36.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my LBS orders it, does all of that come assembled from the manufacturer usually?  If the former, I'll just take it home and swap everything out myself, but if the latter, then I could bring them the parts when I place the order and they could just swap them in when they build it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18533" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T16:53:37.543" Title="How much assembly is required when an LBS orders a bike?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;lbs&gt;&lt;new-bicycle-assembly&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29173" CreationDate="2015-03-01T20:35:32.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you own the 2012 model, your bottom bracket should be a Shimano M171, according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2012/archive/trek/7_1_fx_2012/#/us/en/archive-model/details?url=us/en/bikes/2012/archive/trek/7_1_fx_2012&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek Archives&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/um/SI-1LX0A-003-ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Technical document&lt;/a&gt; that says you should have a 68mm thread width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12865" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T20:35:32.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29240" CreationDate="2015-03-01T21:58:32.857" Score="0" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a cheap, used set of cranks for a bike that was fished out of the garbage :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the cranks won't be on a bicycle when I go buy them, how can I tell if they're bent or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of taking a BB spindle and pedals along, putting the cranks on and trying to rotate them somehow...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T10:55:56.370" Title="How to avoid getting swindled when buying used cranks?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29239" CreationDate="2015-03-01T22:42:15.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've actually never seen bent cranks, so that's probably the least of your worries. And if they are bent, then I don't think you'd be able to tell until they're mounted on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bringing pedals is a good idea - not to check for straightness, but to check if the pedal threads are damaged. If they're square-taper cranks, you should also check the dust cap threads - if they're messed up, you may not be able to take the cranks off again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T22:42:15.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29237" CreationDate="2015-03-01T23:03:32.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is determined by your LBS, the relationship you have with them and the bike your buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally bikes come in flat pack boxes and, with the exception of top end bikes, are partially assembled out of the factory. The reseller needs to attach the handle bar and do a safety check. If you want to change parts out you'll have to pay workshop rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you a buying a good bike from a good LBS you'll find they'll disassemble the bike, chase and face the head tube, bottom bracket and disc tabs as part of the sale. They'll also make any upgrades that you've asked for, either purchased from them or from a different reseller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're purchasing the parts from them on a new bike you should expect a discounted workshop rate. If your bring the parts you shop be expecting to pay premium workshop rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no set rule of thumb. However as always ensure you have a good relationship with your LBS and they'll look after you and your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T23:03:32.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T01:15:48.627" Score="1" ViewCount="3888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1980 Fuji America 18 speed road bike that needs to have the handlebar replaced.  How do I determine the handlebar size?  It appears that 26mm is the common size for older road bikes - but I do not have a micrometer to be able to take an accurate measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18534" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T08:13:21.507" Title="What is the handlebar size for an old road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29244" CreationDate="2015-03-02T13:51:38.043" Score="1" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using my bike for about 10 years for daily commuting and occasional traveling. It is a &quot;trekking cycle&quot; with a flat handle bars. I use it mostly for road riding, i.e. on streets and paved ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment, it has original Shimano Deore LX shifters which are totally worn out. I am emotionally highly attached to frame/handlebar, etc. so I think upgrading is the way to go for me. This time it will be a major overhaul, i.e. I would like to exchange everything related to shifting / gears, and also rim/spokes, bottom bracket, hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now wondering which components to choose. I want to assemble things myself, so I am 100% familiar with the setup. I have been told that maybe an SRAM x7 group might be good, as it should be easier to work with with its 1:1 ratio. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there limits to the brakes/brake levers that I can choose? Must they &quot;fit&quot; the shift levers?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there problems I do not see? I.e. when switching from a shimano to a SRAM shift group?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Hope this is all understandable, English bicycle tech vocab is not one of my strengths (yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6623" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T01:34:44.697" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T01:34:44.697" Title="Upgrading a heavy duty bike" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29243" CreationDate="2015-03-02T14:04:46.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, going SRAM means new shifters and new derailleurs (and while you're at it, you may as well install all new cable housings and cables). Depending on your hub, you may need to get a new hub (or more likely, a new rear wheel) to fit a 9/10 speed cassette that the current x7 group uses -- however if you have an 8/9/10 speed freehub already, you should be good to go. Note that the # of gears in the front &amp;amp; back have to match what your shifter expects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for brakes/brake levers, depending on what levers you have, you may need new ones (if they're in the same unit as the old shifters, for example, you need new ones). You're free to mix and match the brands of brake levers with the shifters, but you may find that the proprietary clamp systems (e.g. Matchmaker/i-spec) will give you better positioning of the shift and brake levers than mixing and matching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think SRAM or Shimano will be &quot;easier to work with&quot; -- go with whichever one you prefer (usually dependent on brand loyalty/how you prefer to shift). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T14:04:46.823" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29237" CreationDate="2015-03-02T16:25:01.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bikes come flat shipped from the manufacturer.  A good bike shop will do the following:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Check/adjust the wheels/hubs and then install them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Install and lubricate/paste the seatpost.&#xA;Install the handlebars.&#xA;Check/Adjust the headset.&#xA;Check and adjust the drivetrain.&#xA;Install pedals (if the bike came with them, many high end bikes do not).&#xA;Install the reflectors (required by law in most areas).&#xA;Tune/check air levels (tires and suspension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question specifically, the crankset/bottom bracket will most likely come pre assembled.  However, talk to your shop.  They may be willing to give you some credit for the FSA crankset if they keep it and they can assure it is unridden (but not uninstalled).  I have worked in a shop that did so regularly with the stock SPD pedals that come on bikes if people wanted flats.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-03-02T16:53:37.543" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T16:53:37.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9352" CreationDate="2015-03-02T18:31:52.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrap inward and use a 3 figure eights or outward and use 2.  This sets it up so the tape is wrapping towards the rider for the tops.  I also use upside down electrical tape below the grifters and near the drops.  I don't use the press in plugs if I can find the screw type compression plugs so the tape at the ends is a must.  It also makes starting easier.  I avoid using the spare piece of tape behind the brifter as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18546" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T18:31:52.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T18:40:56.693" Score="2" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the market for a new bike. It is really my first bike, I am borrowing an old 1980's Cannondale road bike from a friend currently. I have an 8-mile daily commute (1-way, 16 total miles put on 4 or 5 days a week) and I am looking for a bike that I can put some racks and fenders on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I am also super interested in getting into CX racing, we have an awesome local community for it and I have been getting to know some people in it. I also don't have a ton of money (recent college student, I am buying a bike so I don't have to buy a car and spend money on fuel and expensive repairs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, there is a Trek Crossrip Elite near me for sale for $650, and I was thinking about jumping on that, but I don't want to be too hasty. I know people say that they would rather have the 105 set rather than the SORA, but I hope to save up some money for a dedicated CX race bike in a couple years, or something similar that I wouldn't be using for commuting, but I need something now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what features ( geometry, component level ) should I look for in a good entry-level CX bike that would work for racing as well as a general purpose commuter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18547" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T16:07:17.820" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T17:53:42.740" Title="What to look for in a good entry-level CX bike?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29249" CreationDate="2015-03-02T19:12:10.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A CX bike does make a great commuter.  It is stable and strong and still pretty efficient on the road. Just put some touring tires on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your question boils down to a CX bike that has mounts for racks and fenders.&#xA;You don't find many racing bikes designed for racks and fenders.&#xA;Would never actually race with fenders or rack.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You almost never see rack mounts on carbon bike (road, mtn, or CX). &#xA;So you are limited to aluminum, steel, or titanium CX. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know of just a few true CX bikes that come with rack and or fender mounts. &#xA;Moots is a high end semi custom that you can order with mounts.  The titanium La Crux comes with mounts (see picture). The Cross Check has mounts and is a designed as a CX but I have never seen a Cross Check in a race as it is heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given not a lot true race CX have mounts then you can open up your options by looking at CX like commuter bikes - drop bars and take CX size tires.  Look for a compact crank (34T or 36T small).  You might be giving up some ground clearance compared to a true CX but as a beginner you are not going to be hopping obstacles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CX or commuter look for a bike that will take 38mm tires.  Higher end riders are on 33mm but start with big and soft. If you have only ridden a borrowed road bike those down hill switchbacks are going to be scary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are Cat 1 or 2 road or mountain racer you are not going to be competitive your first season.  Focus on having fun and getting better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will see people riding mountain bikes in local races - I get beat by mountain bikes. &#xA;Until you develop technique you are probably going to be faster on a mountain bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That Crossrip Elite would not be a bad starter CX. &#xA;I has a CX type geometry and will take CX sized tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a legit CX racer I use for commuting on the off season:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GsQeQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T17:53:42.740" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T17:53:42.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14261" CreationDate="2015-03-02T20:21:48.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Had the same issues. Couldn't mount a tire, got blisters trying. Was ready to send them back &amp;amp; eat the return shipping &amp;amp; restock fee. Found a Video on you tube on how to mount the A23. Changed rim tape from velox to a synthetic type. Followed the advice. Tires just slid right on with no effort after changing tape. Under 3 minutes. Tires were Schwallbe Durano Kevlar bead, with Ritchey Rim liners &amp;amp; generic tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18551" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T20:21:48.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29257" CreationDate="2015-03-02T21:19:43.787" Score="2" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Giant dutch bike and it has steel rims. Since I'm a big boy I felt that the 60PSI on the tyres is not enough and pumped my tyres to the maximum of 85PSI which is what my Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres were supposed to be able to take in. It was great, riding was so much easier all of a sudden! Not the slowest guy on the road anymore, really fast if I wanted to in fact! I loved it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately a few days after I came to find one of the tubes neatly sliced. The tyre untouched. I wasn't sure what had happened but walked to work that day and planned to bring it to the workshop asap. When the day came I exited my house and found the other tube sliced in the exact same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vQdWW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;no foul play involved!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have meanwhile talked to lots of people. Some say it has to do with the steel rims even though I can't make any sense of that. I have also encountered people that said I just need the right tubes and tyres and it shouldn't happen anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now thinking of either buying a new bike, exchanging the wheels(which would be more expensive than the initial price tag of the bike) or give new tubes/new rimband and maybe different tyres a shot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with this sort of thing or any sort of input?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this didn't help: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24248/tire-popping-out-of-rim-when-inflating-tube?rq=1&quot;&gt;Tire popping out of rim when inflating tube&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18552" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2019-03-30T09:24:15.970" Title="Steel rims responsible for slicing tubes?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29255" CreationDate="2015-03-02T21:33:00.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find what caused the flats.  Take the tube out, keep it relative to the tire and find out where the hole is.  Search that area of the tire or rim to find the offending object or hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a great many possibilities, your rim strips could have gone bad and rotted away, leaving your nipples or spokes exposed.  One of your spokes could be over tightened and sticking past the nipple.   You could have a piece of glass (or other sharp object) embedded in your tires.  Steel rims in and of themselves are not bad.  They don't magically make flat tires any more than any other rim material.  However, steel rims tend to be older, and old wheels tend to have issues (like maladjusted spokes or rotted rim strips).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From you additional info, it's highly possible the beads on your tires are weak and/or the rim surface isn't providing good purchase for them.  It's possible that the bead &quot;let go&quot; from the rim and the tube simply blew out the exposed are (much more likely at higher pressures).  Generally this is accompanied with a loud bang similar to a gunshot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-03-02T21:55:20.350" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T21:55:20.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29255" CreationDate="2015-03-02T21:55:26.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK if the tire was blown off the rim then I highly suspect that is the whole story.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When the tube leaks out the because tire bead has come out the tube will burst and you will see a slit.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tube outside a tire cannot take much pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely when you went from 60 to 85 psi it was enough pressure to push the tire off the rim (bead).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen this with some older bikes.  The rim is a little small.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Look for tires that run small and run at lower pressures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also have a mismatch like a 27 on a 700c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Schwalbe Marathon Plus is a pretty hefty tire and tend to fit a little tight so this is kind of strange.  But it did happen after you went to 85 PSI. &#xA;Maybe give it a try again at 60 PSI. Even if you get a new bike you would have this as a backup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T21:55:26.643" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29255" CreationDate="2015-03-03T01:32:32.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overinflation blowout is a possibility; I had that happen with Schwalbe Marathons, don't recall the exact PSI but it was the tire's rated max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try 10 under the max; if that does okay, then maybe push it a little further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T01:32:32.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27362" CreationDate="2015-03-03T07:32:57.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, the sram product matrix can be handy (&lt;code&gt;y&lt;/code&gt; is cost, &lt;code&gt;x&lt;/code&gt; is severity of impacts):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wOb5m.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sites/all/themes/sram_2011/st_rockshox/_images/products/product-matrix.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.sram.com/sites/all/themes/sram_2011/st_rockshox/_images/products/product-matrix.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T07:32:57.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29239" CreationDate="2015-03-03T10:55:56.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative for used cranks for an old bike for &quot;beater&quot; style usage is to get a cheap, unbranded (new) chainset online. You will at least then have the assurance of any warranty that the company provide, and much lower chance of getting sold something broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the UK there are websites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SJS Cycles&lt;/a&gt; which provide parts in all price ranges. Last year I needed a new chainset for my commuter on a student budget, and got something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/alloy-compact-double-square-taper-chainset-50-34t-175mm-prod31096/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; for (visibly) a good price. Its not the smoothest of chainsets, but it does the job, especially when you're on a budget. I'm sure there are similar companies selling in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17106" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T10:55:56.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29268" CreationDate="2015-03-03T17:09:48.610" Score="4" ViewCount="850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fell pretty bad this winter, and after that (even now without a trace of snow where I live) I feel the bike really slippery, mostly the front wheel. Riding on slightly uneven surfaces makes me feel I'm going to slide to the side, and side wind also feels I'm losing control of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike is less than a year old and I only commute with it, no long distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be a technical problem or a confidence issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T04:30:38.003" Title="After fall bicycle feels really slippery" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29266" CreationDate="2015-03-03T19:29:43.743" Score="1" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;One hour after my first 20-minute ride with new inner tube it exploded with &quot;ps-BAH!&quot; sound. Also, as you can see on the photo, two bulges appeared near the hole. The tire (25mm) allows up to 8 bar (116 psi) , I inflated it to around 7.5 (108 psi). Do you think it's simply a production defect of the tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: it's not a long cut on the photo, it's a seam. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/GZllq02.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full res image&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jyo51m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2015-03-03T22:45:36.167" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T22:48:27.770" Title="Inner tube popped on back side of the valve - why?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10313" CreationDate="2015-03-03T19:40:17.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fly Pedals came out with the best version of a clipless pedal adapter. Works with every kind of clipless pedal, and the best part is they have a lifetime warranty. They sell on &lt;a href=&quot;http://flypedals.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;flypedals.com&lt;/a&gt; but shipping is cheaper on Amazon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PtpYk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18564" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T16:29:18.283" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T16:29:18.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29264" CreationDate="2015-03-03T20:06:10.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What that looks like to me is that you had the tube pinched (folded) up along side the value stem.  That would explain both the cut and the bulges.  That cut looks like a tear - a faulty tube would have more of a clean split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you mount tire make sure the valve is free (you can push it in). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T20:06:10.003" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-03T20:52:52.670" Score="2" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to by my first touring bike. I've got a very tight budget so I will probably order a Revolution Country Traveller from Edinburgh bicycle cooperation as it looks like it will suit my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I would like some tips for which frame size I should choose. I know it's really hard for anyone to say what I will like the best but I've got no possibility of trying out the bike before buying. I haven't got any bikeshop nearby with a very similar bike in stock neither. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 20 years old, between 177-178 cm tall and my leg length (to my crotch) is about 80 - 81 centimeters. I've go a Specialized MTB with 19&quot; frame which I feel suits me well and I've got a Nishiki Criterium (2008 or 2009 year model) in size &quot;medium&quot; which has a seat tube length of about 50 centimeters or so. And I feel quite comfortable on that bike as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use the formulas based on my leg length I get results ranging between 53 - 55 centimeters. The Country Traveller is available in either 52 or 55 centimeters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, just by looking at what I've written above, what would you guess would be the best for me? I'm by the way not a very experienced cyclist. Even though I have had my Criterium quite a while I haven't travelled very great distances on it so I'm still quite inexperienced in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All tips and comments are most welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apologize to all americans for using imperial measurement units by the way. But hey, google is your friend! ;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18567" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T16:59:52.943" Title="Size advice needed for Revolution Country Traveller touring bike" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;&lt;advice&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29263" CreationDate="2015-03-03T22:38:39.253" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, whenever the front wheel on a bike skids or slides at speed, the rider wipes out. The only people that manage to stay up right are either very lucky or have reflexes that Jedi warriors would be envious of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding after a recent fall and feel like your front wheel is &lt;em&gt;sliding&lt;/em&gt;, but you are still upright, then you have some sort of post-crash confidence hit, and are interpreting any motion as being an imminent crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that your fork isn't damaged, handlebars are aligned, and that your wheels are true, but otherwise just keep riding and rebuild your confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T02:58:48.350" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T02:58:48.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29264" CreationDate="2015-03-03T22:48:27.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what Blam suspects, verify you don't have any debris in your rim, and that your rim tape is not damaged. If this tube was a replacement after a flat, it's possible whatever caused the previous flat remains to torment you further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T22:48:27.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8740" CreationDate="2015-03-04T00:00:07.020" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got through 2 Continental Sport and three other tyres in about 4 years, which is about 20,000 km. Three had a hole in the sidewall, one had disintegrating rubber with viable threading, and one actually exploded!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18570" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T00:00:07.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29273" CreationDate="2015-03-04T01:11:35.503" Score="7" ViewCount="1242" Body="&lt;p&gt;After riding about 800m downhill, I got this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IfGQF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vdQ6M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6aqqy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/juZri.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, this is TriAce Wheelset for Dahon Mu Ex 2014. Do you think this is safe to ride? Can I repair this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18504" LastEditorUserId="18504" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T00:48:49.367" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T00:48:49.367" Title="Carbon Wheel Heat Bending" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29272" CreationDate="2015-03-04T01:56:01.473" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, they are not safe to ride due to risk of the tube blowing out or the tire rolling off the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, I do not think they are repairable (at home). If they were repaired I would not trust them again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that this item is not fit for the purpose of a bicycle wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be returned to the place of purchase on those grounds and a replacement or refund sought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T01:56:01.473" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29405" CreationDate="2015-03-04T04:40:12.943" Score="0" ViewCount="3582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an awesome Ridley Noah carbon frame, fitted with Athena Campag 11sp groupo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently it's been making a lot of creaky and &quot;pop&quot; noises as I ride up hills (putting more force on the crank arms).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I turned the bike upside down one day and noticed the same &quot;pop&quot; or &quot;click&quot; sound when I tried to jiggle the crank arms a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the UT bolt inside the hollow crank centre is loose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not find any cracks or hairline cracks on the frame itself (but I could need an xray to see).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T20:14:24.017" Title="Creaky crank problem: Campag 11sp Athena crankset (Ultra torque)" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8481" CreationDate="2015-03-04T04:53:05.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how I optimized my Townie for max speed, yet max slow climbing ease. (I'm an old man.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In MTB style, I replaced the chainwheel/crank with a 22t/48t combo (the max spread that 4-bold 2x setups can take these days.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then with 2 cassettes combined (cogs &amp;amp; spacers from the 8sp CS-HG51 11-30t and the 9sp CS916A HG-400 12-36t) with a Wolf Tooth 42t for Shimano, I made a custom 7sp cassette to go with the original Townie 7sp shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result is 42,36,30,24,18,13,11 to make the basic 1x7 setup on the 48t chainwheel. I removed the left shifter and front derailer for simplicity and low maintenance. If I ever need the 22t/42t ultimate granny combo, as bailout gearing, I use a plastic tire wedge to ease the chain over. Made sure that the 11t fit into a recess on the 13t cog, and that 8sp spacers were used, to assure smooth shifting up and down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gain Ratios on a Townie for this setup on Fat Frank balloon tires are as follows...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.07x, 6.83x, 4.93x, 3.70x, 2.96x, 2.47x, 2.11x, and for the granny: 1.06x with 170 cranks. (mechanical advantages, petal cycle vs tire tread cycle.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I cruise in comfort with a wide upright seat, backrest and ape-hanger handlebars.)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18571" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T04:53:05.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-04T10:30:32.503" Score="3" ViewCount="2025" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my Trek Fuel Ex6 I have a Rock Shox Recon Air fork with rebound valve. The valve has a 2,5mm allen key for adjustment, but it seems broken. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/resources/suspension_setup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek Suspension Setup Guide&lt;/a&gt; tells me to set the rebound to 8 clicks out, however if I turn the screw it does not click any more. Two months ago when I turned it it did click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any option to fix this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The problem was in the screw. It was damaged. It wasn't griped. So the only solution was to carry it to a specialized bike store&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18391" LastEditorUserId="18391" LastEditDate="2015-12-19T22:53:31.703" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T22:53:31.703" Title="Rebound doesn't work on a Rock Shox Recon Air" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-04T11:21:17.057" Score="0" ViewCount="1406" Body="&lt;p&gt;so I accidentally screwed the wrong side pedal into my left hand crankarm on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-au/bikes/model/defy.3/14893/66357/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giant Defy 3 2014&lt;/a&gt;, and I have been looking to buy a replacement part myself and get a mechanic to install it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering what would be compatible with the original Sora groupset components? I haven't been able to find just a crankarm, so I am looking to buy a crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/shimano-shimano-chainsets-road-shimano-sora-double-3550-9-speed-chainset/shimchar491&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Sora Double 3550 9 Speed Chainset&lt;/a&gt; for 40GBP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would other 9 speed cranksets work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other left hand crankarms would be compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18575" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T20:13:30.630" Title="Replacing Sora crankarm" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29274" CreationDate="2015-03-04T11:38:45.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past I have experienced a similar 'clicky' / 'creaky' sound when pushing for more torque on the pedals. I didn't have a campagnolo bottom bracket / chainset but I do have a square spindle bb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me I needed to tighten two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tighten the crank onto the bottom bracket spindle. Sometimes the crank can become loose, especially if recently fitted. This may be more frequent with the square spindle types as well. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-installation-and-removal-square-spindle-type&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Guide / more explanation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tighten the bolts that hold the chain wheel onto the crank. This may be the culprit if the 'clicks' are quite a high frequency sound. These don't need to be super tight, but they can make noises if they are loose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other times, I have had noises like this from my spindle being slightly dented or even my crank being slightly bent (not sitting on the spindle correctly). These would then have to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creaking sounds that happen at a consistent time (the same place on each pedal rotation) sounds more like a crank issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its definitely worth trying these kinds of solutions before going for anything more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17106" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T11:38:45.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29277" CreationDate="2015-03-04T13:39:12.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may well get a bargain like @Klaster_1 mentions in your comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did want to buy a new crank set that behaves exactly the same, you could get anything that matches the same specifications: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/pages/how-to-measure-bolt-circle-diameter-bcd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bolt Circle Diameter&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the teeth count (in your case 34/50 if you're replacing that sora one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ensure that its got the right shape hole for the bottom bracket spindle (rarely incorrect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crank arm length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a Sora groupset already then you may get a smoother experience from getting the same model crankset, but this is down to opinion, and I haven't had any issues with mixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, your local bike shop will be able to give you plenty of information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17106" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T13:39:12.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-04T14:20:01.873" Score="1" ViewCount="4876" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of upgrading my road bike from 3x9 Sora FD/Tiagra RD with Sora shifters to 3x9 105 FD/RD.  Any suggestions on shifter upgrades?  Derailleurs have been replaced, have new SRAM  9spd cassette and chain, all work OK, but would like different shifters to finish improvements. Would any newer 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace be compatible, or should I focus on a hunt for a decent used set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18578" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T00:47:43.097" Title="Shifter Options for 105 3x9 upgrade" Tags="&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29280" CreationDate="2015-03-04T15:12:24.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Current 105/Ultegra/Dura-ace are more than 9 speed, so you can't use them. Plus, the old 105 or tiagra 9 speed shifters you'll get are probably the same as the current Sora shifters anyway, due to trickle down technology (just with tiny modifications and a price premium).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, if you're sticking with 9 speed, don't bother -- you'll just pay more for a different sticker on the shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T15:12:24.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29280" CreationDate="2015-03-04T15:17:57.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All newer 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace are 11 speed, so they would not be compatible with your 9 speed derailleur.  I believe you'll have to find some old ST-5500 levers if you want 9 speed 105. The current generation is 5800, so that's 3 generations old. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with @Batman, that it probably makes sense to go with current generation 9 speed shifters. Even the 5500 shifters have the cable going out the side, which is the major complaint with sub-105 level components.  The current 3400 level 9 speed Sora looks to have the thumb actuated downshift, which some people don't like, and the 5500 looks like it uses the extra lever behind the brake lever. The 3500 level 9 speed Sora uses a lever for downshifting. If this is a big concern for you, choose appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T20:06:14.247" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T20:06:14.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5409" CreationDate="2015-03-04T16:39:02.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be better to ask how many miles does a bike last rather than how many years. I'd guess that a bike should perform well (if it's reasonably maintained) for 5,000 miles. At this point the cables are shot, the mechanical components have worn, bearings, etc. You could certainly replace all these parts and keep it going, but there is more to the question than that. The other aspect to the question is how long will it take for the bike technology at the high-end of the spectrum become affordable to the price point that's comfortable to you. I suspect that a regularly ridden bike gets at least 1,000 miles per year (probably more). It also seems to me that in five years, the features on the &quot;nice&quot; bikes are standard on the entry level and big box bikes. In fact, I think that bikes get &quot;cheaper&quot; by $100 a year. So if you bought a bike this year for $600, next year the $500 bike will have the same features and components. (Inflation distorts this a bit.) So again, let's assume you bought a bike for $600 this year. You would have loved to have had the model that sells at $1,200 but that was too expensive for you. Five years from now you will think about replacing your bike and are willing to spend $700. You'll find the bikes at this level are pretty equal to the bikes that you wanted this year that cost $1,200. You'll look at that bike and say to yourself, &quot;Wow! What an awesome bike for just $700!&quot; And then you'll decide that your current bike NEEDS to be replaced. So the answer to your question is &quot;five years.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18580" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T16:39:02.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29280" CreationDate="2015-03-04T17:16:58.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it were me, part of any upgrade would involve addressing the question of future-proofing the bike, for example so that parts going forward are easier to obtain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid that, in your case, this means I would be looking at going beyond 9-speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention 105/Ultegra and Dura Ace - well, these are all now 11-speed setups so straight away you're looking at hunting through back catalogues to source 9-speed parts in these groups. Unfortunately in Shimano's world, anything currently 9-speed is at the lower end of the spectrum, in terms of quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will still find plenty of 10-speed parts at the moment, but again, and with the exception of Tiagra, these are &quot;old&quot; in terms of Shimano's current range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another observation is that triples seem to be nowhere near as common as they used to be, lots of groups bypassing them in favour of compact doubles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I have a 3x9 bike (Tiagra mostly, from around 5 years ago) and every time I think of upgrading it, I put that project on the back burner. Quite simply it would be too much faff for not enough gain. I think my favoured upgrade path would be to go for a 3x10 105 group, with a view to then swapping in 6600 or 6700 (10-speed Ultegra) parts as things wore out. But that;s just a personal thing and, as I say, I have no appetite for that project just yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T17:28:06.107" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T17:28:06.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29277" CreationDate="2015-03-04T20:13:30.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're replacing the whole crankset and BB, then any 9-speed double crankset should work. The chain width for 9-speed systems is the same for all makes (not the case for 10 or 11 speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before you do that, I'd look around and see if you can replace just the left  arm. Any crank designed for the Shimano &quot;outboard bearing&quot; BB should work (those are the ones that clamp onto the BB spindle with two pinch bolts). Just make sure the crank arm is the same length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T20:13:30.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-04T21:16:33.993" Score="0" ViewCount="1641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5-speed bike with a buckled back wheel. I have found one on the internet cheap, but it is a 6-speed wheel. Will it fit my bike? Will there be any adaptations needed to the bike to use this wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18581" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T17:03:07.770" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T08:55:01.430" Title="Can i fit a 6 speed wheel onto a 5 speed bike?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29287" CreationDate="2015-03-04T21:24:26.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just because a wheel is buckled doesn't mean that it can't be fixed. You may want to take it to a bike shop. As for will the wheel fit, first note that you'll need 6 speed shifters unless you're using friction shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the wheel actually fitting, you need to check the hub spacing -- for example, 5 speed rear wheels for road bikes normally use 120 mm spacing while 6 speed use 126 mm spacing. Measure your &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;frame's spacing&lt;/a&gt; and buy accordingly. If the frame is steel, you can often cold-set it to take the wider wheel (which is what you'll likely need to do if you're going from 5 speed to 6 speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T21:24:26.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29290" CreationDate="2015-03-04T22:04:03.167" Score="4" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in the far southern community of Nashville, Tn. If any of you know Nashville, it is very late to the bicycling movement. They have some good efforts currently but they are focused in the high rent downtown areas and super cool East-Nashville. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact is cycling is much better where I live but there are a lot of older people who would not think of cycling the half mile to the store. &#xA; I have this idea that if we could get all the retail and mall owners to switch out the parking benches for smokers to bicycle parking, it might make the prospect of cycling more inviting.&#xA;Anyone have the experience int heir community where bicycle parking was soundly embraced? &#xA;How did you do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18582" LastActivityDate="2018-06-14T08:29:09.630" Title="Getting local businesses to install bicycle parking" Tags="&lt;advocacy&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29289" CreationDate="2015-03-04T22:21:29.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle parking is a convenience but it is never a factor in my decision on if a ride my bike.  Worse case I lock my bike to the smoking bench.  At my gym I have a secure bike room so I will ride my nice bike.  But if I did not have the room I would still ride my beater.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now a good bike route is a factor.  If you want to encourage biking then work with the city on bike routes/lanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T22:21:29.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-04T22:59:51.607" Score="0" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dismantled my bike to try and take a look at the crank bearing, as I fear it may be getting dry. Unfortunately at the stage pictured I could go no further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outer and inner rings appear to be separate, and locked against each other (presumably to set the end-float of the axle?). No idea what kind of fixing this is, so also no idea what sort of tool is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone recognise it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aAfLG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bottom bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18518" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T22:47:00.897" Title="What kind of bottom bracket fixing is this?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29289" CreationDate="2015-03-04T23:44:35.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider sharing bike parking information from other cities of similar sizes.  Here's one to check &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.portlandoregon.gov/transportation/article/99190&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.portlandoregon.gov/transportation/article/99190&lt;/a&gt;  Maybe showing them something would help.&#xA;Another idea is to contact bike advocacy groups in nearby towns and ask them their strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18438" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T23:44:35.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-05T01:23:01.367" Score="6" ViewCount="22585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 59, 5'11&quot;, 210,and have had a triple bypass. I moved from the flats to the hills, and I want to ride again, but I can't with the gearing I have now. 50/34 chain ring and an 11 speed 10-25 cassette. These hills are really steep, I'm talking &quot;Climb to Kaiser&quot; steep, and I do not like having to get off my bike and finish walking to the top of the hill. Keeping it a double, what groupset would give me the best range and lowest gears for climbing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18584" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T16:47:51.770" Title="What would be the best gearing for mountain climbing?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29263" CreationDate="2015-03-05T01:37:40.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fell and broke my ankle in 2011 and it took me a year to get back in the grove. I rode for another year and fell again this time requiring brain surgery. Both accidents happened getting on or off a good trail system.  I'm just getting back into it again and like some said above, the only cure is riding again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your bike, take it to a good bike shop and tell them what's happening and tell them to check it out thoroughly. You could have nothing wrong at all or a bent/warped something as has already been suggested.  Your bike should not feel squirmy or have any wiggle in it unless you are riding on soft or loose roadbed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6159" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T01:37:40.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-05T01:42:10.903" Score="0" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;What lubricant does the chain of a Merida TFS 600 bring from its factory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13713" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T19:23:37.893" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T19:23:37.893" Title="Merida Matts TFS 600 original chain lube" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-03-05T19:43:32.090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-05T03:28:53.557" Score="2" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wanna upgrade my bike to carbon,and find this rim &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carbonbikeoem.com/2015-new-arrival/bike-rims/mtb/xc-series/26er/2014-carbonbikeoem-26er-xc-mtb-carbon-rims-30mm-width-cross-country-mountain-bicycle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carbonbikeoem.com/bike-rims/mtb&lt;/a&gt; cost only $169,so is this a real carbon?and what is the general price of carbon rims?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18573" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T08:29:19.623" Title="a carbon rim cost only $169 is real carbon?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-03-05T19:44:03.270" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29296" CreationDate="2015-03-05T03:45:27.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, a chain uses a grease lubricant which is applied hot to the chain into every crevase of the chain before the chain is assembled. Its generally the best lube you can get on a chain, but its impossible to apply at home in the same way (contrary to &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#factory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sheldon brown&lt;/a&gt;) [aside from the fact that that particular formula is likely not sold]. Some more details from Shimano are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/chainwear-challenge-quick-interview-with-shimano/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T03:45:27.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29294" CreationDate="2015-03-05T03:45:35.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At some point it becomes quicker to push a bike up the hill than ride. Don't let ego override common sense. However, in your specific case where its a hilly circuit, a lower gear makes a lot of sense and will help you build fitness and climbing strength (and save your knees).  If at some stage the lower gear is no longer needed, you can always go back to you original gear set, or a set between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can fit is limited by you dérailleur which has a maximum capacity (Difference in number of teeth from Big Big to Small-Small gears). Typically road bikes will have a short or medium cage - anything from 30 to 37 tooth capacity.  We know you have at capacity of at least 31. (50-34) +  (25-10) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new cassette with a larger big cog is readily available - up to the insane range of 10-42. In your case good size to look at would be 11-32 - as its a very common size available at all price points and a big enough range to make a difference. This would need a dérailleur with a capacity of 37. A 11-29 might work as well, won't give quite  as lower gear but needs a capacity of only 34, so may fit you existing dérailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could, go to a single on the front (50) and 10-42 on the back using your existing dérailleur (Roughly same as 34F/29R), or drop to a smaller chain ring for lower gearing. Going single will sacrifice top speed if you drop the chain ring size and have the change in gearing increased between cogs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Browns&lt;/a&gt; gear calculator to help decide what you need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T03:59:14.823" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T03:59:14.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9883" CreationDate="2015-03-05T05:37:29.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done couple of 300's and learn something that maybe useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 (or 3 is better) spare tubes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multi-tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Powerbank to charge mobile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gloves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pre check weather and carry rainwear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare batteries for head/tail lights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15885" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T05:37:29.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29297" CreationDate="2015-03-05T08:29:19.623" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be very careful with a deal that sounds too good to be true.  Take a look at what happend to this carbon wheel in another question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/29272/carbon-wheel-heat-bending&quot;&gt;Carbon Wheel Heat Bending&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't buy from a company I've never heard of before and will never hear from again (like when the wheel deforms from the heat of braking and I'm trying to get a refund). Even the tagline on that website (&quot;Welcome to carbonbikeoem.com , enjoy the great savings now!&quot;) is a red flag to me.  It suggests that the only point of their products is that they're cheap. The generally poor grammar of that website also suggests that it's not a serious company, but just someone who can cheaply produce things from something resembling carbon fiber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be much better to get a decent set of aluminum wheels, then you don't have to worry about how long they last before they snap.  For $85, you can get a Mavic XC 717 Disc rim that weighs 395 grams.  Mavic is a well-known manufacturer and you are guaranteed that this is a good product.  It weighs 35 grams more than those carbon rims.  Who cares about 35 grams ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T08:29:19.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-05T12:02:19.603" Score="1" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be in first gear on my front derailleur, and shift up to 2nd. Nothing will happen at all. Then I'll shift up to 3rd, and I'll finally switch into second. 3rd gear is inaccessible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of this issue? Cable too slack? Limit screws in wrong positions? What should I adjust to try and fix this? I've been trying different things but I'm clueless here so I thought I'd ask for advice from people who actually know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18529" LastActivityDate="2017-10-02T14:11:53.263" Title="Shifting 1&gt;2 does nothing, shifting 2&gt;3 puts me into 2nd. What's wrong?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29302" CreationDate="2015-03-05T12:30:17.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was me, I'd release the gear cable so there is no tension at all on the front mech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then move the gear lever / changer to the position the changer would be in if you weere in the 1st chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then make sure that the adjusting screws are set correctly, so that when you look at front mech from above, it is centred over the 1st, smallest chainring. You might need to tweak the screws to get it to line up properly. I can't remember which screw does what but trial and error will tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I'd get some pliers and put lots of tension on the gear cable, and clamp it tight in the front mech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you have a nice tight gear cable. Try again with changing and see if it works any better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it goes up to the 3d, biggest chainring, make sure you can't overshoot on the changer, you might need to adjust those screws again - but don't touch the one you used to set the position on the 1st, smallest chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can take a bit of testing, but usually this approach works for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13187" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T12:30:17.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29302" CreationDate="2015-03-05T12:30:55.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like an alignment issue, possibly with your limit screw for the lowest gear being &quot;too low&quot;. Your best bet might be to follow a guide to realign the derailleur. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-a-Front-Bicycle-Derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Something like this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17106" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T12:30:55.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15555" CreationDate="2015-03-05T13:58:17.670" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be the way how you set up your spinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18589" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T16:13:25.893" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T16:13:25.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15555" CreationDate="2015-03-05T15:18:47.020" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can take some more Magnesium too. When you train hard, there is a need to take proper vitamins and minerals. Running out of magnesium can be painful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13937" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T15:18:47.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-05T15:37:39.363" Score="0" ViewCount="1321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a trek 7000 hybrid and was wondering if there are aftermarket parts i.e. inner tubes and tires that will work for it. the wheels, tubes and tires are all bontrager if this helps any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18592" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T15:49:04.037" Title="replacing tires and tubes" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-03-05T19:43:46.750" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29307" CreationDate="2015-03-05T15:49:04.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just need to match the size.  Bontrager is just a tire that Trek used for that bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size will be on the tire&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The bike comes with a 700x35c&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The 700 is the rim size - you have to get a tire that size&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The 35 is the width of tire - you have some variance there&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For your bike might as well just stay with a 700x35c&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For a tube you will get a range like 700 x (32 - 45)     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T15:49:04.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29294" CreationDate="2015-03-05T16:21:59.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your frame and bottom bracket allow it, you could install a mountain bike crank with 42/28 chainrings (maybe Shimano XT). Combined with an 11/32 cassette, that would make climbing really easy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the last 3 years, my only bike has been a 29er MTB with a 2x10 drive train and a top gear of 36-11. That's enough for me even on road rides, even when riding in a group where everyone else is on road bikes. (I use slick tires for those rides). I can pedal up to 25 mph and rarely even use the top gear. I love it on 15% grades where everyone else struggles and I'm calmly spinning the 22t chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T16:21:59.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29291" CreationDate="2015-03-05T16:56:08.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the chain guard bracket and it would likely come off with a bottom bracket lockring tool. The fixed cup of the bottom bracket should be behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14684" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T16:56:08.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29294" CreationDate="2015-03-05T16:59:53.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What parts are you willing to replace? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't get smaller than 34 in the front w/o replacing the crankset with some kind of MTB crank. You'll likely need to replace your front derailleur as well, and there are issues with indexed shifting that you'll need to figure out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't get larger than at most 32t in the back w/o replacing the rear derailleur with an MTB version. There are also indexing issues between road/MTB derailleurs. If you get a road extended cage or triple rear derailluer, you can probably make an MTB 11-32 cluster work with your current shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in the long run it's probably cheaper just to get a triple chainring on the front.&#xA;You'll have a much easier time getting the gears that work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T21:35:57.420" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T21:35:57.420" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29151" CreationDate="2015-03-05T20:47:47.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bike year round in Minnesota where it is often below 0 Fahrenheit (-18 Celsius). A balaclava is a must. Use Shea butter on your nose. If it is very sunny, you can get sunburned. If you are a male, don't shave so much. Wear goggles or safety glasses to protect your eyes from the cold wind. By the way, I consider 0 degrees Celsius quite warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18594" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T20:47:47.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29276" CreationDate="2015-03-05T20:51:07.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try to gently &quot;tighten&quot; the Allen setting all the way. Then try backing it out. I never hear clicks. I just feel them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18594" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T20:51:07.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29291" CreationDate="2015-03-05T21:48:49.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/crank-and-bottom-bracket-wrench-hcw-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/product/crank-and-bottom-bracket-wrench-hcw-5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tool should do to remove the lockring at which point the chaincase mount should be able to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inner indents don't look to match any splined BB tool I've ever come across though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18416" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T21:48:49.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-06T08:35:17.090" Score="2" ViewCount="1554" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone make a cleat, or an adapter that would accommodate a cleat, that has a slot for use with old style caged pedals that use toeclips &amp;amp; straps, that fits 2-bolt SPD style cycling shoes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18597" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T02:33:14.517" Title="Slotted cleats for SPD shoes" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29319" CreationDate="2015-03-06T09:18:37.657" Score="0" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the spokes of the front wheel of my bicycle is removed and this really affected the alignment, How can I replace it and make the wheel balanced back, or do I have to replace the whole wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18598" LastEditorUserId="18598" LastEditDate="2015-03-06T17:13:25.067" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T01:35:58.723" Title="How to replace a wheel Spoke" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29318" CreationDate="2015-03-06T09:36:15.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need a new wheel, and the repair is cheap if you have the correct tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/maintenance/maintenance-replacing-a-broken-spoke-815.html#TvUV6evPmShsBcbB.97&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a guide&lt;/a&gt; if you want to try it yourself, or I reckon it would cost 0.5 - 1hr labour at a bike shop (plus the price of a single spoke).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt; - just read that it's the front wheel, which makes things easier still. No need to remove any cassettes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17106" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T09:36:15.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29294" CreationDate="2015-03-06T10:37:08.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue. I think you can try with ultegra 11spd with 11-32t. After changing mine to that, I can climb hills without too much trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jseb9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18504" LastEditorUserId="18504" LastEditDate="2015-03-06T12:03:12.973" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T12:03:12.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10479" CreationDate="2015-03-06T15:34:32.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is easy enough to test.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hold your finger over the nozzle and pump (you can hold about 20 psi).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then take an upstroke with the pump.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does it lose pressure or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine holds pressure on the upstroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was not a check valve at the bottom of the stroke when you let go the handle would come up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T15:34:32.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29318" CreationDate="2015-03-07T01:35:58.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing a spoke is easy. Truing the wheel (that is, getting it straight) is harder - but it's a skill worth learning. If you want to learn, buy a new spoke and a spoke wrench; if you're pressed for time, have the shop fix it. Either way, there's no need to replace the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T01:35:58.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29317" CreationDate="2015-03-07T02:26:06.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did find these &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yellowjersey.org/tocleat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.yellowjersey.org/tocleat.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Sk3j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tocleat for Look shoes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Yellow Jersey is exactly the kind of shop you'd expect to find that stuff. &#xA;The one in the image is for Road shoes, but I think could easily be adapted to &#xA;SPD shoes with some work with a dremel tool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They say they will make a custom cleat for just about any shoe. You do realize that because SPD shoes have the cleats embedded in the outsole, you'll need to at least grind a slot in the tread of the shoe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It occurs to me that just grinding the slot in the tread of the shoe and then &#xA;grinding off the tabs on a standard SPD cleat would get you pretty close to &#xA;what is required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-03-07T02:33:14.517" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T02:33:14.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29263" CreationDate="2015-03-07T04:30:38.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride bike in Minnesota winters in ice and snow. The key is to have proper equipment. With my carbide studded tires, glare ice feels like concrete. Also if you have your tires overinflated, you'll have less traction in the winter. In the winter or slippery conditions always use less front brakes. Always do the M check on your bike. Pick up your front and spin the tire. Is it wobbly? Then check the head bearings, then handle bars, then seat and finally rear wheel. Any lose bearings or quick releases will make the bike handle badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sure you are a bit shell shocked, but I also suspect your rig isn't dialed in...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18594" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T04:30:38.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-07T11:19:16.770" Score="1" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really want a fast bicycle, that I could use in winter, summer, rain &amp;amp; snow to commute to work. After some research I found out that there is a cool option of cyclo-cross bikes that are build for speed, but can have better tires, mud protection... (winter/rain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would use bike mainly to commute to work, usually would ride bicycle on city roads (no off-road or mountain driving). Danish weather is usually moody (rain, little ice here and there) therefore I want something that could have more durable and stable tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So again, i came across cyclo-cross bikes and now I was wondering if it is possible to buy a good one under 600eur. Talked with colleagues that have great bikes and they started talking about gears, breaks, handles... and in the end of conversation they summed up that the bike will cost at-least 1500eur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, it would be my first 'good' bike and I am not going to go pro or whatever (just commute in different weather). So I decided that I can only spent up 600eur and then I wonder what is the most important things to look for in the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate any suggestions, tips, help or direction where I should look for bikes to buy/order. Thanks! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13357" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T15:12:06.350" Title="What to look for when buying cyclo-cross or road bike under 600eu/650usd?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29328" CreationDate="2015-03-07T11:56:20.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross is a type of bike race, which means that most true cyclocross bikes will be expensive, as they are built to win races. You won't find much for that price range if you buy new. But racers are always looking to go faster and get new gear, so consider getting a used bike. You should be able to find a very good used bike for that price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider looking at touring bikes. They are built quite similar to cyclocross bikes. Except that they are built at little stronger because they are built to carry more baggage. They also have mounting holes for racks which will come in useful for commuting. Many cyclocross bikes don't have the ability to mount racks because racks aren't used for racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T11:56:20.617" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28684" CreationDate="2015-03-07T13:36:14.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Evolution is a very basic fork , &#xA;The Performance is almost similar to the factory FIT. &#xA;The Performance is much better ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18609" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T13:36:14.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29328" CreationDate="2015-03-07T15:12:06.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good answer from Kibbee +1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I just have a bit more to add  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes a CX makes an excellent commuter. &#xA;It is stable and yet is efficient on the road. &#xA;You just swap out the tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have purchased 2 used CX bikes.&#xA;This is the end of CX season so you find some good used values. &#xA;High end bikes are the best values as those are the people churning bikes but they are not going to give them away. &#xA;Even used your $650 price point is just too low. &#xA;Most racers are on $2000+ bikes and at $2000 new you can get it used for like $800. &#xA;Then you are going to add tires most likely need chain, cassette, ... so now you are into it for like $900 to $1200. &#xA;You got a great bike but not at $650.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A racer that buys a $1200 bike new is on a budget and they are likely to ride the bike for a number of years.  These are the guys/girls are more likely to buy used and ride the bike for a number of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to look for is the guy / girl that bought a $1200 bike new thinking they were going to race and never did.  It happens but you need to be patient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple years ago I found a $1200 CX single speed that I picked up used $400 and then put $200 into it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is CX is not likely to have mounts for fenders / racks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do find a style of bike that is CX like but not designed for race and comes with mounts.  They call them commuters, urban, city, or light touring.  The Trek CrossRip is a good example and comes in closer to your price point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you open up to any urban / commuter type bike that will take 35mm tires then you have a lot of options.  At $650 new you can even some decent components.  If you want a good fast commuter then at more like $850 - $1000 new you are going go find something nicer and if you put a lot of miles on it is going to cost about the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/28528/cyclocross-for-road-bike-type-of-routes-increased-risk-of-injury/28529#28529&quot;&gt;CX&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T15:12:06.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29332" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-07T15:37:21.717" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-03-07T15:37:21.717" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T15:37:21.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29333" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-07T15:37:21.717" Score="0" Body="In cycling, cadence (or pedaling rate) is the number of revolutions of the crank per minute; roughly speaking, this is the rate at which a cyclist is pedalling/turning the pedals. Cadence is related to wheel speed, but is a distinct measurement." OwnerUserId="15895" LastEditorUserId="15895" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T12:31:37.203" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T12:31:37.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19183" CreationDate="2015-03-07T18:00:47.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I lived in Ithaca New York, I used tire chains for my RockHopper mountain bike. It made going down the steep slope of Buffalo Street in the dead of winter a bit less terrifying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jKdeu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brand is called SlipNot but there are others on the market as well. The advantage of chains is that they can be taken off in the Spring. The disadvantage is that you have to make sure that your brake/fork clearance is ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T18:00:47.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29337" CreationDate="2015-03-07T19:20:30.040" Score="5" ViewCount="8358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning a touring trip, let's say around 10'000 km, across Asia more or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no intention at all to buy one of those several thousands - worth touring bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, on a lot of websites, high-tensile is described as pure rubbish, without much more arguments (heavier..big deal...what else?). I have troubles finding a ChroMoLy steel frame, so here is my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it THAT silly to plan a trip with a high-tensile frame? (Brand:Giant Model:Chicago year: no idea, I guess mid 90's, not a single scratch on the frame, I am pretty sure the bike has been stored in a garage)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any story to share on the topic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14183" LastActivityDate="2018-05-20T22:30:31.570" Title="long distance touring: is high tensile steel silly?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29335" CreationDate="2015-03-07T21:03:42.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any steel, even hi-ten is less silly than alu for the trip you're planning and the age of your bike. The endurance strength of steel is much higher, and the material itself is not as bad as it's said to be. Also steel is easily and cheaply repairable, which is a serious advantage when you're going on a long tour with potentially few bike shops. But the problem with hi-ten frames is that these frames mostly exist in rreally cheap bikes, where the quality of manufacturing and quality control are quite poor. With a frame this old it means it could crack any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing your frame to a new one, it would be much safer to buy a new one. Simply because it's new and the material and joints aren't fatigued (and the fatigue would be much quicker with you and racks full of luggage). But comparing a new cr-mo to a new hi-ten frame, there's not too much of a difference in terms of what they offer for touring bikes. Hi-ten steel has lower tensile strength, but higher ductility, so it's more prone to damage at extreme loads, but will bend rather than crack.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Well in the end it's all a matter of compromise and in case of this specific tour, it would be largely opinion-based, thus out of scope of this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastEditorUserId="14321" LastEditDate="2015-03-07T22:03:47.880" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T22:03:47.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29335" CreationDate="2015-03-07T21:54:56.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last year i went on touring trip with bicycle worth 50 eu which is $54 for around 6000 km across 12 countries. My bike load was 50 kg. I had 4 panniers, 2 on front and 2 on rear and i have to say that cost of bike is not important at all. I prefer to have a bike with less equipment because there is less likely to break and less chance to be stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;link: &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/5UNwBsL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/5UNwBsL&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget was 260 eu ~ $281.92 for two months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18613" LastEditorUserId="18613" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T02:23:08.823" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T02:23:08.823" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-07T22:30:30.977" Score="1" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a cheap road bike.  I feel a little drag in the back. When I put it on a repair stand and turn the pedal,  the wheel spins a few times and stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18614" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-03-22T12:13:48.473" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T12:13:48.473" Title="When I put my bike on the repair stand and turn the pedal, is the rear wheel supposed to spin freely" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29339" CreationDate="2015-03-08T00:37:16.463" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could be as simple as the wheel rubbing on the brakes - rotate the pedals and listen for a scraping noise as the wheel contacts the pads. If this is the case, check that the wheel is true by observing for any wobble side to side as the wheel rotates. If that looks ok your brakes probably need adjusted away from the rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start here for brake adjustment &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html#about&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html#about&lt;/a&gt; but it very much depends on your particular brake type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel truing info can be found here - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-truing-a-pair-of-wheels-19199/&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-truing-a-pair-of-wheels-19199/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12871" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T00:37:16.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29342" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T04:50:19.567" Score="1" ViewCount="11355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am newbie for cycling. I plan to install a kickstand. But where should I install it? In the center of the bike or on the back side? I don't know the technical terms, so you may get my question from the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean the center is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vHl80.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean back side is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/atyiS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18560" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T14:50:07.763" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T14:50:07.763" Title="Where should I install the kickstand?" Tags="&lt;kickstand&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29343" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-08T04:54:15.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A kickstand is a device on a bicycle or motorcycle that allows the bike to be kept upright without leaning against another object or the aid of a person. A kickstand is usually a piece of metal that flips down from the frame and makes contact with the ground. It is generally located in the middle of the bike or towards the rear. Some touring bikes have two: one at the rear, and a second in the front&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18560" LastEditorUserId="18560" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T12:32:36.940" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T12:32:36.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29344" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-08T04:54:15.163" Score="0" Body="A kickstand is a device on a bicycle or motorcycle that allows the bike to be kept upright without leaning against another object or the aid of a person." OwnerUserId="18560" LastEditorUserId="18560" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T12:32:25.677" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T12:32:25.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29342" CreationDate="2015-03-08T08:01:50.987" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nowhere is a good option. A bike can't fall over if its leaned on the ground, and in many cases you can lean a bike against a post or a tree if it needs to be kept upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a more serious note, kickstands can &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/kickstands_on_long_haul_truckers&quot;&gt;crush bicycle tubes&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_i-k.html&quot;&gt;can interfere with the crank&lt;/a&gt; or some other moving part if something goes wrong. Some frames are designed with kickstands in mind and have some reinforcements for kickstand installation. From this perspective, something like a Click-stand (like a folding tenting pole which can be used as a bike stand) is preferable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on having a kickstand, check the bike's manual to see if theres a recommended spot. If not, a rear one is preferable for the interference reason, but you're more likely to find a center one legged kickstand easier, which is the one you'll probably install. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T08:01:50.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29347" CreationDate="2015-03-08T09:54:16.327" Score="1" ViewCount="1805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found an old bmx in my shed and I'm just doing it up a little as a good muck around bike. It's not very good, I don't even know the brand but i cut the front brake off, because it didn't even work but the back brake is a U brake but I've found that when biking I'll pull the lever all the way back (as far and the grip) but it's like the brake isn't even working.. I know it's working but it's just not strong enough. So I have 2 questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I make the brake lever harder to pull so I don't pull it all the way to the grip?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I adjust the actual U brake to be a little closer to the rim? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help is appreciated! Just trying to get it working. Feel free to ask any questions too. &#xA;Cheers! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17234" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T10:59:03.680" Title="How do I fix U brakes?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29346" CreationDate="2015-03-08T10:59:03.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pATQM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 screws you can see at right side of the brake. the bottom one is just above the pad screw - it's one that holding the cable. Open it a little.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Check if the cable is going smooth (if not, you should oil the cable or even replace the cable, and maybe the housing too). Check the pads, that they are not wear, nor dried on sun.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then pull the cable (be sure that the cable going well at the lever), push the pads up to the wheel from both sides (to add tension), and tighten the bolt. The upper screw is to add more tension if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T10:59:03.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29363" CreationDate="2015-03-08T11:06:01.110" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yw3Nl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My 16&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This here is my 16&quot; bike which I'm going to at least try restore. I've put some wider bars on it, fixed loose things etc. My friend removed the pedal back but I don't think he has put it back together properly because if you pedal backwards it goes backwards... Does anyone know how to fix this? &#xA;Feel free to ask questions! &#xA;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17234" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T20:32:39.397" Title="Restoring a 16&quot;" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T17:31:19.243" Score="0" ViewCount="1559" Body="&lt;p&gt;My latest &quot;project&quot; involves my bike, i.e. I want to perform a complete renovation of it. This involves changing rim, complete shift group, brakes, hubs, carrier etc, just keeping frame, seat post and handlebar &amp;amp; stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to start by stripping down my bike to those bare components, and while I was cleaning and oiling the seat post, I discovered a horrible stench from within the frame. This smell is best described as sewage ( hydrogen sulfide is the chemical behind that I believe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since that aluminum frame is roughly 15 years old and heavily used, I now wonder whether this water in the frame causes a risk to the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Please do not discuss whether do-it-yourself is appropriate here, building up the bike from its parts is part of the fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6623" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T18:46:31.960" Title="Water inside bike frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29335" CreationDate="2015-03-08T17:35:24.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use just about any type of bike frame to go touring on, but there are pros and cons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, high tensile means the same thing as Cro-Moly. It used to be any touring bike was Cro-Moly, but now you can buy good ones for a low price made of aluminium too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for your purposes, the type of bike frame won't mean anything about how long the FRAME lasts. What will wear and break are the components: gears, brakes, rims etc etc. 10,000km might seem like a huge distance to you now, but to a serious road cyclist, they can do 1,000km in a week just training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the quality of components are matched to the overall quality and price of the bike. Unless you get an amazing deal on a 2nd hand bike, what quality of components do you expect on a $50 bike? But you CAN get good deals on 2nd hand bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And remember the cost of the bike is only a part of the cost of all the other gear:&#xA;- racks &amp;amp; panniers?&#xA;- helmet, rain gear, shoes?&#xA;- camping gear?&#xA;- some tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that a frame mean't for touring has is places to fasten racks and other stuff on. That's a big help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's not the bike frame, but the whole package that you need to consider:&#xA;- reliability&#xA;- gear range (if you will do a to of climbing, or over bad roads, you want lower gears)&#xA;- panniers and racks&#xA;- budget&#xA;- size and set-up: drop bars, flat bars, twitchy/road racing handling, or relaxed touring style&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really the frame, above a certain quality, the components are more important.&#xA;If you buy something with poor components (almost always at a low price overall) then over the next year you will likely end up replacing stuff that wears or doesn't work right. And in the end spend more money, time and hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below a certain price range, it's had to adjust the components: brakes &amp;amp; gears especially. And they don't STAY adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at a bike mean't for touring with &quot;entry-level&quot; components on: say with ways to fasten racks to the rear frame and front forks. And say with a Shimano 105 or Tiagra group set. Check it out and find out what that tends to cost: both new and in good condition 2nd hand. Use that as a base case. Try riding one, see how easy it is to adjust things. Doesn't matter what the frame is from: anything with Shimano 105 and with touring mounts all be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then see if it's overkill, or if maybe it's not good enough for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get focussed on the money now: rather decide what type of bike you can settle for, and try to get the lowest priced one an still get those things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, below a certain price you don't get something that's going to suit a long trip: unreliable and heavy. Then above that price, to get a slight extra improvement in weight or quality you generally have to pay a LOT more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you are unlikely to get the bike for your 10,000km trip and then immediately start on your trip. Rather get something that seems right and do some small trips. As soon as you do your first one you will immediately see what works, or doesn't work, for YOU. And you will see what others are using and get ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people are capable of ignoring things on a bike (some noise, something not working right etc etc) that would drive others crazy. How are you? Do you need it to work just right all the time? Or do you have a thick skin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people can either fix things that break, or readily find others to help them. Others will get stuck with the most minor issues and spend days trying to get something fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google and find sights where people discuss these things. And buy a book about touring: there are dozens out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18618" LastEditorUserId="18618" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T17:49:31.480" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T17:49:31.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T17:45:45.087" Score="0" ViewCount="3121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to decide between the A530 or PD-M324.  I am interested in hearing from folks who have used both.  Weight isn't the most important factor in my decision, so I would go with whichever model is grippier.  If they're more or less equal in that department, I would be inclined to go with the A530 since it's a bit lighter.  I wear flat-soled sneakers most frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at this thread, which provides suggestions on how to improve the grippyness of the A530 (leading me to believe that they are somewhat slippery):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/4368/how-do-i-make-the-platform-side-of-a-shimano-pd-a530-multi-purpose-spd-pedal-les&quot;&gt;How do I make the platform side of a Shimano PD-A530 multi-purpose SPD pedal less &amp;quot;slippery&amp;quot;?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12767" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T23:34:39.533" Title="Which dual-platform clipless pedals allow for the least amount of movement between the pedal and sneaker" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-03-09T12:31:16.643" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29339" CreationDate="2015-03-08T18:01:58.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a cheap bike then my money is on the brakes rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any brake should be able to be opened up or released so that it doesn't come near the rim.&#xA;I'm assuming it's rim brakes and not disc brakes: a disc brake bike is unlikely to be what you'd call a cheap bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when you spin the wheel, line your eye up with either one brake shoe, or part of the frame and see if the wheel itself is &quot;true&quot;: that is if it's in line, or if it wobbles. A wheel that is out of true usually means a broken or loose spoke or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily check the spokes by hand. They should all be about the same tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But no matter what, doing what you did is GREAT. Putting it up on the stand and spinning the wheel and asking questions (to yourself, to others) is the first step to learning about it, and then fixing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18618" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T18:01:58.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29348" CreationDate="2015-03-08T19:47:26.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see here one question: how to fix rear hub with coaster brake. Is there any more questions you have about restoring this bike?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About fixing coaster brake, it's best to give it to LBS, as it's a bit complicated thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T19:47:26.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29351" CreationDate="2015-03-08T20:35:07.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Set of PD-M324's in my box of bits. Plenty grippy, to the point unless you are extreme down-hilling or free riding I doubt you need better. I have double sided caged SPD's with a cage similar to the look of the A530, also in my box of bits - no where near grippy enough, especially when wet. They are good for MTBing when you are unclipped alot - when learning SPDs or technical ground and lack of confidence, but now I am riding less technical XC I do not need them.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not possible to make a grippy pedal that also has an SPD - how would you rotate to  release the clip?  Single sided pedals are a great idea that does not work very well most of the time for most people. Inevitably the side you want is facing down when you put your foot on the pedal. You cannot be certain, without looking, which way it is, so you cannot rely on the pedal when you need it quickly. They are OK for casual riders and might work acceptably for roadies who are not stopping a lot for traffic, but for me, and others I have spoken to who have tried them, they are just frustrating.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now always ride with my SPD's. If I was to start riding sneakers/street shoes, I would go to a caged SPD, and wear the slippages, but those rides would be down to the local store with the family. If you are not prepared to wear the slippages, go to proper platforms and discard the SPD's altogether, or swap pedals when you want to change styles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How badly do you want SPD's? Have you considered getting some SPD compatable sneakers/street shoes?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go ahead with the single sided pedals, I recommend the PD-M324, but consider something like the M647 (Clips both sides with cages). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T20:35:07.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29362" CreationDate="2015-03-08T22:58:30.630" Score="3" ViewCount="31324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004W8LG1S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Takara Kabuto&lt;/a&gt;. It has 700x32 tires (I don't really know what that means). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking at upgrading the brake calipers. I was looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064HM4E8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;, among others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I tell if they will fit my bike? On the page for the SRAM calipers linked above, it says that they fit 28c tires, but in the questions sections, a person said they'll fit on 32c tires. How do I know if that's correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any size information whatsoever for the Tektros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I make sure that any pair of brake calipers I purchase over the internet will be the right width, length, etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9081" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T09:29:48.843" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T09:29:48.843" Title="How to tell if a new pair of brake calipers will fit my wheel, tire, and frame?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29356" CreationDate="2015-03-09T10:48:33.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start with, an aside. 700x32 describes the physical size of the tyre. 700 is 700mm, which is the diameter of the tyre. That size is very common. 32 is 32mm, and describes the width of the tyre. The wider the tyre, the more rubber in contact with the ground while riding (sometimes you want to have lots of contact, sometimes you don't). Note that due to evolution, tyre sizes are not necessarily expressed in millimetres. For some genres of bicycle (notably mountain bikes), these numbers are expressed in inches, just by convention, a quirk of history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your actual question, you say your current tyre is 32mm wide, whereas these calipers are specced for tyres up to 28mm wide. So, just going be what the manufacturer says, the caliper will not fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you say you have heard someone say that, actually, they will be ok. (And to be honest, this is not at all uncommon in the world of cycling.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So essentially you have to take a punt - do you trust this person, buy the brakes, and run the risk that they don't fit? Or, do you buy some brakes which are specced to your current tyre? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice is yours...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T10:48:33.407" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17170" CreationDate="2015-03-09T11:26:10.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always bought used bikes but I see it as a trade off:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's something joyous about an older bike. You can get a higher quality frame for the same price. You should also enjoy the process of searching for and weighing up the pros and cons of each bike you see. Its also worth mentioning that an awesome bike &lt;strong&gt;stays&lt;/strong&gt; an awesome bike. My '98 Specialized Stumpjumper (bought in 2001) and my '98 Cannondale R900 (bought in 2005) are still lovely bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;However the process takes time (searching, collecting, fixing problems). You have to consider how much time you're willing to spend to save yourself the money of the bike. The more expensive the bike the more time that's worth spending.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1020" LastEditorUserId="1020" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T11:33:21.247" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T11:33:21.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2015-03-09T12:15:12.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an additional issue that wasn't mentioned that worries horse riders. Occasionally cyclists think it is &quot;neat&quot; when riding two-abreast to pass on BOTH sides of an obstacle, one cyclist going to one side, one to the other. With horses this is a dreadful idea. The horse can deal with &quot;terror to the left&quot; by shying to the right, or vice-versa. But &quot;terror on both sides&quot; results in the horse going UP, which is not going to be a favourable situation for any riders, those of wheel or those of horse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have been particularly please when driving carriages through trails in the woods (such as Acadia National Park in Maine, or the Mohonk Preserve in New York) to see cyclists stop and wait, or stop and admire the horses. Similarly we have seen motorcyclists at their annual event in Loudon NH stop and shut off their engines at the sight of our horse carriages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forethought and politeness are truly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18633" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T12:15:12.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29356" CreationDate="2015-03-09T16:32:38.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road brake calipers are built with &quot;reach&quot; dimensions.  The reach is the distance from the center mounting bolt to the pads.  Usually this is a range of values (e.g., 47mm-57mm) as you can adjust the pad vertically within the caliper.  It is important you replace the caliper with another caliper of the same reach. &lt;strong&gt;If you do not get the appropriate reach you will not be able to position the brake pads to engage the rim braking surface.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3 common sizes&lt;/a&gt; for road brake calipers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;39-49 mm&lt;/strong&gt; - &quot;short&quot; reach - Common on race road bikes, lower volume tires (e.g., 700x23c).  The   Tektro R540 (what you linked) has this reach.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;47-57 mm&lt;/strong&gt; - &quot;long&quot; reach - more common on road bikes that slightly larger volume tires (e.g., 700x32c).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;57-76 mm&lt;/strong&gt;  - &quot;Extra long reach&quot; - less common and found on more boutique frames which are designed to fit even larger volume tires or 700c to 650B conversions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to determine which reach your current calipers are. Given the tire size of your current bike (700x32c), if I were to guess, it is likely option (2) 47-57mm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you peruse &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's web page on brake calipers&lt;/a&gt; you can see which brands and model numbers will match this reach specification.  &lt;strong&gt;I would however suggest measuring your caliper reach to confirm my guestimate before any purchases.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T16:32:38.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29348" CreationDate="2015-03-09T20:32:39.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to restore it, take off/disassemble the major/large parts:  Fork, wheels, and cranks.  Go slow here so you can put it all back together later.  Give it a good degrease, wash, wax then reassemble with new grease.  You don't really have to remove and tear down the hand brakes.  Grease the seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Park tools has a good page on how those coaster brakes work:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/coaster-hub-overhaul-pedal-brake-hub&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/coaster-hub-overhaul-pedal-brake-hub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, all you really need is this graphic to show you how it all fits together:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ofr1X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Coaster brake via parktool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just used the regular Polylube they sell when putting them back together since it was all I had.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheelbearings are really easy to find online as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then replace any consumables (tires, brake pads).  If this bike isn't doing any dirt, you can find 16 inch street tires as well.  Even on bikes that small, they make a huge difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can look at brake cables, and chain as well, but they are a replace as needed thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T20:32:39.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29294" CreationDate="2015-03-09T20:36:32.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've thought of a different way to approach this problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use an online bike power calculator to get some idea of the wattage you can sustain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecalculator.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bikecalculator.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be best to do this for a climb that you can do with your current gears&#xA;and that you know the stats for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now put in the stats for the kind of grades you want to climb, and in my experience&#xA;the maximum sustained grade is the limiting factor. It only takes a hundred meters&#xA;or so of 18% grade to completely blow up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll get an average speed out of the available power. Now that you know the speed you'll be going, you need to find a gear that is as efficient as possible at that speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to a handy gear calculator and put in your current gears and see what rpm you would need to ride to match the speed calcutated above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the calculator says that you need to ride at 30 rpm or less for the gear you have, thats near the point where the bicycle will be unrideable. IMHO, 60 rpm would be a good place for the average cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play around with these two calculators to get some idea of what gears would actually work for you. This kind of approach will save a lot of fiddling around and if you need to make a big change in components, you'll know that at the start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T22:07:47.907" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T22:07:47.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29349" CreationDate="2015-03-10T00:09:34.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;See this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23529/how-many-years-an-aluminium-frame-lasts-in-a-touring-bike?rq=1&quot;&gt;How many years an aluminium frame lasts in a touring bike?&lt;/a&gt; for an example of an aluminum frame that is showing some cracks.  This particular frame had been used for 10 years, but it depends mostly on the number of miles ridden and the type of riding (rough/smooth surface, load, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is lots of useful information in the answers to that question.  You should read it and form your own opinion on whether what you are planning to do is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think it might be unwise to buy lots of new components and invest a lot of time building the bike when the frame might already have cracks or may soon develop cracks. It might be better to spend a few hundred dollars/euros/etc to buy a new frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T00:09:34.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29367" CreationDate="2015-03-10T02:47:08.380" Score="1" ViewCount="3516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to ask a physics-related question, I'm a male, 162cm, height 50kg/110lbs (I'm healthy, but too light!). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I'm building a Surly Cross Check and I'm confused what wheels I should purchase. So I have two options: Alex DM18 (cheap) and Alex DH19(more expensive). They have similar inner rim width (17.9mm an 18mm). I really want DH19 but I'm little bit overbudget on other parts. I plan to use my bike for commuting and a little bit offroad. If I use the bike for offroad, do DH19 rims will stay true longer? Or because I'm thin, would using DM18 have insignificant difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: the plan is to build an ss cx bike, no consideration of cassette/drivertrain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T15:32:02.397" Title="inferior/weaker rims vs superior/stronger rims with an underweight cyclist" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29366" CreationDate="2015-03-10T03:18:16.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get what you pay for. The DM18 is a cheap rim with good enough reviews rating it good value for money. The DH19 is a better rim - only you know if you can or want to stretch your budget, however &quot;Quality is remembered long after price forgotten&quot; comes to mind. Are you prepared to regret not spending that extra money every time you go for a ride?     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided the wheel is built well and maintained, the cheaper rim will stay true (its the spokes that keep the rim true, not the rim). The DH19 has eyelets for the spokes - meaning the rim will handle more abuse and last longer (without eyelets the spoke holes tend to fatigue and crack). However, as you are only 50kg, I expect the cheaper rim will easily handle the riding you are suggesting. If you were 150kg, I would steer you to the DH19.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T03:18:16.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29366" CreationDate="2015-03-10T05:00:50.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hardtail MTB with much older Alexrims AD-something (the numbers on the decal are gone now) They are doublewall, 32h, but have no eyelets on the spoke holes. I have had them for at least five years of moderate XC, and road use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they where laced somewhere near 2010 they never went out of true, and I know because I use V-brakes. My weight ranges from 150 to 175 lbs (68 - 80 Kg) and add to that roughly 8 lb (4 Kg) of gear, water and tools. I'm an aggresive descender (for XC) and even perform jumps and drops on this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm trying to say is that even though there are quality diference between the two rims that you are comparing, the &quot;lower&quot; one is not bad at all, so, if budget is a limitation, rest assured that in this case, the low priced one will perform well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with Mattnz in that the quality of the wheel depends way more on the quality of the workmanshipwhen lacing and truing the rims, and that providing the adecuate maintenance is key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T05:00:50.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-10T08:17:05.260" Score="0" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to biking having had to give up running due to 'worn out' knee joints!  I bought an entry level cyclo-cross Carrera Crixus from Halfords which I love.  My only criticism of the bike is the poor braking performance, I live on the edge of the Brecon Beacons and ride a mixture of road and track with some very steep hills thrown into the mix.  I don't have vast amounts of spare cash to upgrade to another bike, but wondered whether it's feasible and cost effective to upgrade from caliper to disc brakes on this bike - any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18576" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T08:17:05.260" Title="Upgrading Brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-03-10T11:34:07.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29294" CreationDate="2015-03-10T09:21:03.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I faced a similar problem &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23092/how-to-get-a-lower-gearing&quot;&gt;last year&lt;/a&gt;. I live near the Alps and frequently (although not as frequently as I'd like) go up climbs like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.climbbybike.com/climb.asp?Col=La-Barillette&amp;amp;qryMountainID=5403&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;A nice climb near Geneva&quot;&gt;La Barillette&lt;/a&gt; (1000m @ 8%). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up getting a 34-50 compact crank and an 11-32 cassette. 34-32 makes it possible to climb most hills without standing up, but I must admit that I spend more time in the lowest gear than I would like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; reason not to get a triple? (I can't honestly say that I did...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T09:21:03.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29375" CreationDate="2015-03-10T11:45:37.757" Score="2" ViewCount="7712" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I am reading spec for 29er with suspension fork and I would like to calculate replacement parameters for rigid one. Calculation is needed because I don't want to change geometry after replacement -- so the rigid fork should feel (in sense of geometry) as locked in neutral position suspension fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to do the calculation, what parameters are important? Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Custom SR Suntour XCT 29, w/ custom Multi-Circuit Damping, alloy&#xA;  lowers, coil/MCU spring, Hi-Ten 28mm stanchions, 1-1/8&quot; steerer,&#xA;  hydraulic lockout w/ preload adjust, disc mount, 100mm travel&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(text from Specialized Rockhopper 29).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background 1&lt;/strong&gt;: I want to do calculations before I buy the bike to avoid situation, that I am buying popular bike but there is no rigid fork replacement (or it is very hard to get).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background 2&lt;/strong&gt;: In reality I wanted to buy fitness bike (100% rigid, disc brakes, 700C) and mount wider tires (2&quot;). After some query it appears that all fitness bikes (like Trek 7.2 FX, Cube Hyde, etc) have so little space that you can fit 1.75&quot; tire max (Kross Seto). I found only single bike so far with frame for wider tires (Sulry Ogre), but it is out of reach for me (Poland). So I see no other option as do more expensive replacement -- instead of buying fixed fork bike and replacing tires, buying 29er and replacing fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T14:31:26.360" Title="How to calculate rigid fork replacement for suspension one?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-10T12:47:33.100" Score="3" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tyre says 700x38 on the side of it.&#xA;what size inner tube would I need for the wheel? I've ordered a 700x35 inner tube but it seems a little too big for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18641" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T13:15:16.980" Title="How to find correct size inner tube" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29373" CreationDate="2015-03-10T13:15:16.980" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;That will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;38 is the measure of your tyre width.&#xA;Most inner tubes can be used in a range of tyre widths eg 38-43 (it should say on the box)&#xA;They all seem a bit big and flappy until the tyre is on and it's pumped up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful not to pinch any of your inner tube between the edge of the rim and the bead of the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18587" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T13:15:16.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29372" CreationDate="2015-03-10T14:12:12.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a rigid fork for a 29er with shocks just buy a fork for a suspension corrected frame.  If the fork is listed for a mountain bike then it is (probably) suspension corrected.  I suspect that about any rigid fork that will take a 2&quot; tire will be suspension corrected.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring is not going to do you much good as you can't buy custom lengths (that I am aware of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is a suspension corrected rigid - see the space at the top:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSW69.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;suspension corrected rigid - see the space at the top&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a workout bike I don't get why you need 2&quot; tires?  You are going to have trouble finding road 2&quot; tires.  There are some rigid mountain bikes (Niner Ross 9 Plus) and also the Salsa Fargo.  Another option would be to buy a used mountain bike priced right because of a worn out shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T14:31:26.360" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T14:31:26.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29366" CreationDate="2015-03-10T15:32:02.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for the primary question - yes if you are lighter you put less stress on the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the secondary question of building a SS CX bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to assume you don't CX race now.  If you do race and really want to race this bike SS then just let me know and I will delete this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most CX racers use clincher or tubeless for lower pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware the SS heat is brutal.  SS on sand, flat, and uphill takes a lot of power.  The single speed heat will also have all categories of riders (cat 1 - 5).  Typically it will only have cat 3 and better riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cross Check is true CX design but you don't see it in races as it is heavy.  It is a great commuter bike.  Since you are light a heavy frame effects you more than someone that weighs more.  And extra weight is more penalty in SS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes the Cross Check is a commuter you can race CX but if your end goal is a race bike then that is not a good project frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T15:32:02.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5176" CreationDate="2015-03-10T15:49:07.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd use Simple Green or a similar mild degreaser followed by denatured alcohol to eliminate any residue.  Make sure and thoroughly rinse Simple Green off your rims and pads using water, it makes the brakes grabby, loud, and yet ineffective if you leave it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also lightly sand the brake pads to get rid of the contamination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T15:49:07.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24869" CreationDate="2015-03-10T16:19:42.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean 12mm thru axles, they have been around for a few years now but in different guises depending on hub and frame spacing standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• 150x12mm &lt;BR&gt;&#xA;• 142x12mm &lt;BR&gt;&#xA;• 135x12mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the rise of enduro/am/do it all style mtb&#xA;It's about creating harmony between weight, stiffness and ease of use.&#xA;and a standard going forward that can adhere to modern frame and hub design trends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of 12mm thru axle is that through axles enable you to get a more secure connection between frame and wheel as the axle goes through the hub and almost always then screwed into the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 15mm and 20mm axle standard is geared up more for Forks. and some come as proprietary technology specific to a fork manufacturer. &lt;BR&gt;&#xA;Also depending on your riding style and frame dropouts 9mm qr can be weak and flexy thus a 10mm bolt up conversion may provide appropriate strength/rigidity for older frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18587" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T16:19:42.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20735" CreationDate="2015-03-10T22:03:23.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've raced several Super D events on an aggressive hardtail and did just fine. I'm usually middle of the road on my time, of course these are not pro races. I'm doing several more Super D and Enduro races this spring and summer, I say have a blast on the hardtail!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18646" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T22:03:23.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-10T22:23:35.193" Score="1" ViewCount="652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a bike, got an Alfine hub for cheap, but the shifter feels like garbage. There're lots of new 11 speed shifters out this year, like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/sram-x1-11-speed-x-actuation-trigger-shifter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SRAM X1&lt;/a&gt;, do they work with the Alfine? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T01:36:12.960" Title="Will an 11-speed SRAM shifter work on an Alfine 11?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-10T23:19:14.807" Score="-2" ViewCount="1908" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rebuild bike converted to a single speed. Using a tensioner on the chain. Have a three ring chainring and using the high gear (46T) and a 16T cog.  Bike spins great on the work stand but riding it I can't get the pedals to work. Can't understand why I can pedal on the stand but not on the pavement.  Thanks for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18647" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T00:58:57.983" Title="Pedals won't turn while riding" Tags="&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-03-12T16:30:04.283" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29386" CreationDate="2015-03-11T01:31:38.170" Score="1" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some outings coming up which will need a few days of 100 mile bike rides, this isn't something I'm going to do all the time but I'd like to the option to. I've been looking at road bikes and tried a Saracen Tenet 2 2014 at my local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like it but I'm not really sure looking at the specs if it will be up to the work? I do really like it but I don't have much experience this area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the spec list:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/saracen/tenet-2-2014-road-bike-ec060482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/saracen/tenet-2-2014-road-bike-ec060482&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something's which I've noticed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;doesnt have disc brakes, is this a big deal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sora gears set seem to be well reviewed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carbon fork keeps this bike light?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help people can give me in the right direction would, be greatly appreciated! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7034" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T02:15:14.770" Title="Saracen Tenet 2 suitable for long distance" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29380" CreationDate="2015-03-11T01:36:12.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. SRAM shifters (and regular Shimano shifters) don't have the right cable pull to deal with an Alfine hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need the Alfine shifters or ones marked to be compatible with Alfine (Jtek barends and Versa brifters are two of the 3rd party options for road bikes, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T01:36:12.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11301" CreationDate="2015-03-11T01:46:11.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question was specifically about legality. The cyclist has the right of way in Oregon, whether there is a dedicated bike lane or not, as long as the cyclist is on the far right of the road. I believe the same is true in California. My answer is about a car turning into a driveway, residential or a business, not about turns at a light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18649" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T01:46:11.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29383" CreationDate="2015-03-11T02:15:14.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike should be perfectly fine for 100 mile ride, specs look similar to other products in this price range. I'd rather bother myself with fit and comfort, these will mean more on long distance ride, ask LBS for a test ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;doesnt have disc brakes, is this a big deal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not going to descend mountains or ride in very wet conditions, then no. People are riding without disc brakes for years, it's just another option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;sora gears set seem to be well reviewed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sora should do the shifting alright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;carbon fork keeps this bike light?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not exactly, aluminium forks are about 200 grams heavier than carbon fiber, which isn't big deal, given the bike weight almost 10kg. It should be somewhat more comfortable, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T02:15:14.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T08:14:54.283" Score="4" ViewCount="9847" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son is at an age where I could be buying him a new bike each year because he is growing, but instead I managed to pick up a free bike from someone who put it out for trash collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only problem is the brake pads were worn to the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have replaced the brake cable, tried two different sets of different brand brake pads and tightened everything until it can't be tightened anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see from the pics that the brake pads are right up against the rims, but those @&amp;amp;$@#%s just don't stop the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pictures show the pads right up against the rims when the brakes aren't even engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think is the rims. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTXvj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTXvj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJRdP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gJRdP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQNOX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQNOX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2460" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-16T06:33:58.220" LastActivityDate="2018-07-22T19:51:52.463" Title="Super tight brakes don't work" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29388" CreationDate="2015-03-11T08:28:49.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you try the following sequence?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the tension adjustor on the brake lever to the lowest (original) position. The tension adjustor is that little screw next to the brake lever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unscrew the screw which locks the cable on the brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the brakes (the brakes, no the lever) using your hands to the rims and keep them in this position while...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While still pressing the brakes tighten the screw. Do not overtighten.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check if the problem is gone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, using cable caps on the cable ends to avoid separate threads wandering all around is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tip: when installing brake pads install them at a very little angle, so that the front is slightly above the back. The brakes must remain on rims. This will make brakes less noisy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastEditorUserId="13097" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T08:35:29.180" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T08:35:29.180" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2516" CreationDate="2015-03-11T09:49:07.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe slightly off-topic, but I would like to share. Past summer my touring/commuter MTB looked like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y4w8G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages of this bar ends &lt;strong&gt;position&lt;/strong&gt;, compared to in the end of the handlebars are several. First, a more narrow and aerodynamic position is assumed. Second, standard grips can be used, without the need to cut them. Thirdly, for some reason those were HUGE aid on climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently they are off, due to too much clutter on the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T09:49:07.063" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30441" CreationDate="2015-03-11T09:57:46.493" Score="3" ViewCount="2684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to convert my current bicycle into an E-bike. &#xA;While there are many conversion kits available and plenty of sites with tips on this, none of them quite meet my needs, or they fail to explain exactly why certain choices have been  made.&#xA;I am looking for an answer that provides insight into exactly what matters in this type of conversion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Current situation:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute to work on my bike 2 times a week, which is 75Km (45 miles) round trip. My bike is a 2010 aluminium cyclocross bike with 700 x28 road tires and standard canti brakes, otherwise Shimano Ultegra parts. Front fork is carbon. The terrain is flat, with about 5% gravel roads. Location is Northern Europe, so plenty of rain.&#xA;I normally ride this distance with an average speed of 26 - 28 Km/hour (16 - 17.5 M/h), depending on wind and traffic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Budget for converting is not very high (few hundred $, certainly below 800$), but I am willing to spend quite a lot of time on sourcing the right parts and am pretty confident in my DIY skills, including building wheels and batteries if need be. Getting another bike to commute on is not an option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reason for converting&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main reason for wanting to go electric is reducing travel time. &#xA;The two commutes a week per bike are a part of my exercise schedule, so reducing tiredness or getting to work easier/without sweating are not important. Ideally I would like to convert and still get a reasonable amount of exercise, only get to work faster (35-40 Km/h)/(22-25 M/h). This means that I still put in the equal amount of energy that I currently do (meaning I can reach 28Km/h on my own) and the motor supplies the extra energy required to go 35 Km/h. &#xA; In case of a removable battery, charging at work would be an option, but an effective range of 75Km to be able to make the round trip without charging would definitely be very nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Decisions to make&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motor type and placement: What I understand so far is that within my budget, a direct drive 48v hub motor would be best. I do not really care about their added weight or drag when not active. For weight distribution, a front wheel motor would probably be nice, but I am not sure how well this goes along with my carbon front fork, and if it even fits (over locknut distance). When looking on e-bike motor sites, almost all of the motors seem to be very high power (500W/1000W). I really doubt whether I need this amount of power, when all I need is a little support to get from 28 Km/h to 35 Km/h. I do not expect the bike to pull me along without myself delivering most of the effort. Would something like 200W not be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choosing a controller:Controller should be compatible with the motor and battery, and not be limited in speed to at least 50Km/h. Regenerative braking would be nice, mounting to a drop-handlebar is nice, but I expect to have to make some custom solution for this anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choosing/making a battery:&#xA;Obviously, some form of lithium ion battery is best for performance/weight. But what are other (budget friendly) alternatives? Is a sealed lead battery really such a bad idea?&#xA;How much costs savings can I expect when building my own battery out of Lithium cells? and how feasible is it to import them from China? Battery mounting will probably be some form of custom rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting second hand parts:&#xA;What are my options regarding second hand parts, what is the life expectancy of an e-bike system (excluding battery, of course)? Is getting a second hand donor bike for electric parts a viable option (they are often found quite cheap here, when the battery has died they are sold for 300$) It is of course difficult to find exactly the parts (mostly motor type) you need in a second hand bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyone with experience with such an conversion who can provide some insight into what really matters to make a fast bike go even faster with a custom DIY solution, without me having to empty my bank account? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T14:39:01.423" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T15:20:46.753" Title="How to convert a commuter CX bike to an Electric bike?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29396" CreationDate="2015-03-11T10:57:08.343" Score="1" ViewCount="2245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a 50cm CX style bike from an online retailer.  After assembling the bike and filling the tires, I found only had around 1&amp;quot; of stand over in bike shorts.  Since I will be commuting on the bike and using it for transportation around town, my preference would be for something with greater clearance over the top tube for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saftey - being able to dismount quickly in an emergency situation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clothing choice - I won't be wearing bike shorts when commuting or riding around town&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclocross - I do plan on riding the bike off-road, so more clearance would be better on uneven ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to my question: I emailed the retailer asking for assistance selecting a smaller size, but they &amp;quot;strongly recommend&amp;quot; sticking with the 50cm frame stating it would be &amp;quot;perfect&amp;quot; and that the top tube length is more important than stand over height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What is the thinking behind this advice?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept the bike and am overall pretty happy with the fit. I've used it for commuting, long distance rides and a few races.  It's also survived a collision with a bus and lived to tell the tale.  Luckily, I wasn't seriously hurt.  I can also attest that the stand over height didn't make a difference in that scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12767" LastEditorUserId="12767" LastEditDate="2020-07-02T23:42:22.320" LastActivityDate="2020-07-05T14:14:54.980" Title="Why should I prioritize top tube length over stand over height on a CX bike?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29394" CreationDate="2015-03-11T13:46:34.730" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why should you prioritize top tube length over stand over?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Because top tube length affects fit and stand over does not affect fit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you are riding the bike stand over does not affect fit.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My CX only has 1&quot; of stand over.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A big triangle is good for stiffness and shoulder carry.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A tall top tube means faster transition to shoulder carry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't get your reasons  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1&quot; versus 4&quot; should not affect your ability to dismount quickly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You ride on the seat - not the top tube.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In a controlled dismount the bike is stopped - 1&quot; is a quick and safe stand over dismount.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have to bail because a truck pulled in front of you then lay the bike down - don't stand up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So your clothes touch the tube?  What is the harm?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is more clearance better on uneven ground?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you stop then don't stop over a hole.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you fall on the top tube an extra inch of clearance is not going to save you as your feet are not going to be under and you are going to be moving.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even with 2&quot; of clearance falling on the top tube should always be your last choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T21:43:05.857" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T21:43:05.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T14:12:54.777" Score="3" ViewCount="51788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently upgrading my bike from a 9 speed to an 11 speed system.  I am currently using shimano 105 components and will continue to use them within the new system.  Current bike has a shimano 105 rear derailleur but does not specify if it is unique to a 9 speed system.  Will I need to buy a new rear derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18654" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T18:33:45.787" Title="9-speed system to 11-speed drivetrain upgrade?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29398" CreationDate="2015-03-11T15:27:49.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This page has the best answer I've found so far&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Artscyclery.com&quot;&gt;http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading between the lines, the cable pulls from 9spd to 11spd are probably close enough, but the derailleur ratios are significantly different. 1.4 vs 1.7. This means&#xA;that the 11 spd indexing in your new shifters will not work correctly with your old&#xA;derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T15:27:49.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T16:10:03.980" Score="2" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cannondale touring bike from the early 2000s that I use as my daily commuter.  With the stock cantilever brakes and original front wheel, I had a lot of front brake squealing.  I did the standard maintenance to try and make it stop (toeing, sanding, etc), and it returned persistently.  I've even replaced the front wheel (independent reason: got a dynamo) and the brake calipers (Avid Shorty), all to have the squealing come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't just any minor squeal, this is &quot;audible from 100 yards, plug your ears, the bike is screaming in pain&quot; kind of embarrassing noise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible that it's the canti mounts on the forks that are causing the squealing?  Would replacing the fork be a possibility for fixing this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking that I might try switching to disk brakes, but I don't want to just have a different kind of squealing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have a disk-compatible front hub (Shimano Alfine dynamo hub with CenterLock), but I'd need to get a new fork to get the tabs and calipers.  I don't want to throw away $200 (fork + brakes) if I'm just going to be squealing again or subject to a different annoying noise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it make sense to do this in stages?  I.e. get a fork with disk and canti tabs and try that, and if the squeal returns try the disk option?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18655" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T18:02:04.087" Title="Persistent front wheel squealing: Replace the fork? Switch to disk?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29400" CreationDate="2015-03-11T16:30:44.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike with cantilevers and I can understand the frustration. I spent a lot of time last summer getting my brake pads aligned properly so they didn't squeal.  In the end I got it to work with the brakes I had, but it took quite a lot of futzing around to get the angle just right.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people recommend getting a fork crown mounted cable stop to eliminate squealing. I didn't try this myself, but it would be something relatively inexpensive to try before going the route of disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CZSIc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;fork crown mounted cable stop&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T16:30:44.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9595" CreationDate="2015-03-11T16:42:25.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got elixir 1 (due to low price) to replace my 12 years old Hope Mini where the rotors did not move anymore. Those things worked 11 years with just replacing pads - mostly light city riding. And the front is still working nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Googled for a solution to adjust the pads as they were tight on the rotor. Solution: suggested on SRAM's web page prior to bleeding - just pulling the lever several times to &quot;reboot&quot; the caliber. Worked when I was pulling the lever with full force and at the same time pedaling a bit forward. Now there is maybe 5 mm of movement before the pads make contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So operation seems similar to Hope Mini - self-adjusting etc. Hopefully this individual  does not need bleeding too often (like the Mini) - opposite to the horror stories in the web (bleeeding every month or at least every 3 months).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18656" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T16:42:25.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29289" CreationDate="2015-03-11T18:55:30.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted to update contributors and thank you for the input. &#xA;The biggest grocer stores, namely Publix and Kroger has Media Relations staff that gobbled up the idea. &#xA; Bike parking is low investment and has a big payback in PR!&#xA;It helped ripping this image from the latest NACTO Bicycle Design Guide and emailing it with my communications (email, phone call followed with a letter) and copying my councilwoman for endorsement.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D0fAo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;NACTO Bike Corral image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18582" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T18:55:30.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29398" CreationDate="2015-03-11T20:02:14.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need to change the chainwheels and the cranks, the rear derailleur, the brake-shift levers, the cassette and the chain of course. The rear wheel probably has an older hub but then if you're lucky and the hub is designed for 10-speed as well it will also take 11. The brakes won't need changing but then the newer ones are designed for less friction in moving parts. Technology trickle-down from Ultegra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T20:02:14.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29274" CreationDate="2015-03-11T20:14:24.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a big question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clicks and creaks can be related to a good many things, sometimes the crankset and / or the BB, sometimes not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the simple stuff first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cassette lockring is properly tight - it does need to be at the&#xA;correct torque, usually marked on the lockring iteself, typically 40&#xA;nm. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's a Campag wheel, that the end pieces in the axle are tight ... two 5 mm allen keys, one in each end, locked clockwise relative to each other. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear QR is tight - if it's some super-lightweight,&#xA;titanium job, replace it with something less fragile from a reputable&#xA;maker like Campagnolo or Shimano &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the chainring bolts are correctly torqued. If Campag they use a T25 Torx key and should be at 8 - 10 nm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure that the pedal threads are greased and that the pedals are tightened to around 16 nm in the cranks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have looked at these areas, then the BB needs a look. First question - is it press-fit or screw-in type cups? From here on in, you are mostly looking at shop processes using the correct tools. Don't try work-arounds, they are very variable in their results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, drop the cranks off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the BB cups / press fit adaptors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the BB shell and check it is tolerance for width and if press fit, diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's screw in, check that any movement you might have felt or seen is not a breakdown of the bond between the threaded BB insert and the frame itself - this can and does happen and it is not easily repairable in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the BB insert all looks tight and immobile, chase the threads. If possible without touching the carbon, face the BB shell so that the cups are definitely coming up against flat, square surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-fit the cups with grease, Loctite 247 or copperslip on the threads and tighten to between 16 &amp;amp; 24 nm. Loctite requires lower tighteneing torques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reassemble the UT bearings into the cups with plenty of grease in the cup itself. Ensure the clip on the RH cup is fitted. Ensure the wavy washer is in place. Ensure that the central bolt is locked to between 42 &amp;amp; 60 nm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If press bit BB, is it true BB30 or BB30 PF or some other variation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's true BB30, remove the adaptors, clean and degrease everything, and refit the adaptors with Loctite 641. Reassemble the bearings and cranks as if with screw-in cups (see above) once the Loctite is dry (normally 24h) and see if it creaks. If the cups were the issue, this will fix it. Campagnolo have always recommended Loctite on their press fit cups but the recommendation has been largely ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's BB30 PF or some variation on the same, the adaptors will be pressing into a carbon base not alloy, so they again need to be taken out, everything degreased a suitable activator (Loctite 7649) is applied to the carbon and the adaptors are then refitted with Loctite 641. Reassemble the bearings and cranks as if with screw-in cups (see above) once the Loctite is dry (normally 24h) and see if it creaks. If the cups were the issue, this will fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a vanishingly-small number of riders for whom UT is just not the right system - some are so untidy in their pedalling style that they can side-load the whole assembly and induce an odd click or creak, but for 99.999% of users, proper and careful assembly and taking the steps outlined above will cure any and all noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graeme&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head Technician&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Velotech Cycling Ltd, Campagnolo Main UK Technical and Service Centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T20:14:24.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29400" CreationDate="2015-03-11T23:09:37.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched from an aluminum fork to carbon and the brakes howled like crazy. I went the usual route of cleaning, adjusting etc. What worked is counterintuitive, but I toed the shoes out. The noise went away immediately. I read somewhere that it can have something to do with the harmonics of the carbon fork.  So I have the rears toed in and the front toed out and there is no noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T23:09:37.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9595" CreationDate="2015-03-11T23:47:29.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've spent a lot of time adjusting Avid Elixir 5 brakes to stop rubbing. There could be multiple things going on that may need to be fixed.  If you can figure out which of these applies to your situation, I can give you more detail on how to fix it. Below are 4 possible causes of your brakes rubbing, and what to do about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the disc is warped, you can bend it back into shape.  Hold the bike so you can spin the wheel and look closely at the tiny gap between the rotor and the pad on each side.  It may help to put a light-colored object, such as a white piece of paper, underneath, so you can see it through the gap. Good light helps too.  As the disc spins, you may be able to see that the distance from the disk to the pad on one side increases and decreases.  When it gets too close, it rubs against the pad.  Spinning the disk slowly, you can see which part of the disk is bent towards that pad.  By gripping that part of the disk with an adjustable wrench (or a specialized disk truing fork, if you have it), you can gently bend it in the opposite side and straighten it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe the problem is that the brake caliper is not centered properly. This is the case if one pad is rubbing against the disk for most of one revolution of the wheel, and there is a gap between the other pad and the disk.  This can be fixed by loosening the caliper bolts (2), moving the caliper so the disk is centered between the pads, and tightening the bolts again.  The gaps are tiny, so you only want to move the caliper by an amount similar to the thickness of a few pieces of paper (maybe 0.1mm ?). It is easier to do this if you only loosen the caliper bolts a little bit -- just enough so you can move the caliper, but not so loose that it moves too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful when you are done adjusting and tighten the caliper bolts. Turning the bolts with a hex wrench can move the caliper, which would ruin whatever adjustment you have just made. I found I can avoid this problem by firmly holding the caliper with one hand while tightening the bolts with the other hand. Also, tighten each bolt a little bit at a time, going back and forth between the two bolts.  Carefully watch the gap between the disk and the pads; when the gap changes, you know you've screwed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The third possibility is that there is too much brake fluid in the system, which prevents the pistons from retracting enought to give sufficient space between the pads.  Remove the pads and try to push the pistons all the way into the caliper.  If they go all the way in, it's fine. If not, you need to remove a small amount of brake fluid through one of the bleed screws, but not too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another possible cause is that the pistons are unable to retract sufficiently when you release the brake. This can happen when brake dust and other dirt accumulates on the pistons near the seals (where the pistons retract into the caliper). You can fix this as follows: remove the wheel and the pads. Clean the area inside the brake caliper where the pistons are (using a small brush or similar). Pull the brake lever and watch how the pistons move. If they both come out and then retract, they are fine. Don't push the pistons too far, or you will get air into the system and then you will have to bleed the system (this is a bit complicated and time-consuming). Push the pistons back in, as far as you can. If one or both of the pistons are stuck (meaning they don't retract when you release the brake lever), you can get them unstuck by putting a few drops of brake fluid on the edge of the pistons (where they touch the seal). Then repeatedly push them out a bit using the brake lever, and push them back in using a tire lever or similar tool made from wood or plastic. I've read that a metal tool might damage the pistons, but I'm not sure if that's true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T00:00:27.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29388" CreationDate="2015-03-12T00:21:47.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couldn't add this as a simple comment: use rubbing alcohol on clean paper towels on the rims and the pads until most of the black crud comes off. Also take pride in your work and wrap the loose wire strands with black tape or ideally crimp in a short section of brass tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18594" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T00:21:47.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29400" CreationDate="2015-03-12T00:42:18.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try something less expensive first. For me, switching to Kool Stop brake pads has worked even better than toeing in when in resolving this type of vibration. &#xA;I'm not surprised that replacing the front wheel didn't affect the problem since it's not likely to be the cause of the vibration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T00:42:18.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29388" CreationDate="2015-03-12T00:52:27.723" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading the comments I am going to presume the problem lies with the rim/pad interface not generating enough friction rather than pressure from the brake lever getting to the pad/rim interface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step - Presume the rim is contaminated with something slippery. Clean the rim presuming its either oil or silicon based. Use an degreaser/solvent first to attack an oil based contamination, the use an abrasive cleaner and scrub well with a steel wool or aggregative nylon scrubber and plenty of soapy water to remove non-oil based contaminants. Don't worry too much about damaging the rim - if you can't get the brakes working do you want you son riding on it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the pads - presume these, even if new, have been contaminated by the rims. Ideally buy new ones (Come to that later), second best and worth a try is to clean them with degreaser, soapy water then file or sand the top layer off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assemble them with a bit of toe in (front of pad hits rim first). Put them together. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/linear-pull-brake-service-v-brake-type&quot;&gt;Look here for good instructions&lt;/a&gt;). Now the brakes need to bed in. Go for a ride, and give them a dozen of so max effort stops from high speed (careful you don't do anything silly) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple of points: Are the pads good quality one like Koolstop?  Cheap pads are often made of hard compound, take a long time to bed in and have low friction.  If possible, get softer pads with more grip (and shorter life). The brakes are calliper brakes typical of road bikes, that offer poorer braking compared to V brakes and discs. Better callipers may help, but they do have a limit of how good they can get.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T03:41:29.680" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T03:41:29.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29414" CreationDate="2015-03-12T00:57:47.463" Score="5" ViewCount="2969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel bad asking this question because I've been doing bicycle maintenance for over 20 years and this seems like a noob question.  I was unable to find a Shimano manual to answer this question.  I just bought a Norco Threshold CX bike with Shimano Ultegra SL-RS685 brake/shift levers.  I want to adjust the cable length for the front derailleur to fine-tune the derailleur position.  The cable is routed inside the frame and there is no barrel adjuster to be found anywhere.  I looked under the brake hood and did not see anything that appeared to be involved in adjusting the cable length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I could adjust the cable length at the derailleur, by loosening the bolt, moving the cable a tiny bit, and tightening the bolt again. But it seems difficult to do fine adjustment that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you're wondering why I'm adjusting the derailleur on a brand new bike: The front derailleur wasn't shifting properly because the rear fender (installed by bike store) interfered with it. Before I figured that out, I thought the cable length needed adjusting, and I couldn't figure out how to do it.  Techically I can leave the cable alone for now, but eventually it will need adjusting and I would like to know how to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T01:11:27.357" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T07:40:38.383" Title="How to adjust cable length on integrated brake/shift levers, when there is no barrel adjuster?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29381" CreationDate="2015-03-12T00:58:57.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three things to check (well, more, but let's start here):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chainline. Is the front cog so offset from the rear cog that the teeth are catching on the chain? Is the offset so great that when you introduce variance i.e. take the bike off the rack and put it on the road, it's overly-resistant to turning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chain tension - per Carel's comment above, make sure your chain is not overly tensioned. This will also cause seizure. I'm guessing this is it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And because I'm so smart, I have first-hand knowledge of this one, bmx versus road chain, cog, etc. i.e. make sure if you're using a road chain that you're not using a BMX cog and visa versa.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T00:58:57.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29412" CreationDate="2015-03-12T02:13:49.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there's no barrel adjuster, then you'll need one installed. Ask LBS to do that or do it yourself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get an inline barrel adjuster and two 4mm ferrules. These are pretty cheap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get tools to cut cable housing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure there is enough shifting cable left to accomodate extra 3-4 centimeters added by adjuster. If it's too short, get a new cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detach cable from derailleur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a straight section on cable housing that doesn't rub anything and mark it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your frame runs cable bare and not through inner liner, attach a long string to cable end before pulling it out. This will help to route cable back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut housing in marked location, install ferrules on both ends. If ferrules have long tongues, cut them down too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the adjuster to shortest position, install it in the cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Route cable back using the string. Now you can tweak cable tension for front derailleur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result should look &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madegood.org/gallery/bikes/general-information-on-barrel-adjusters/2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;something like that&lt;/a&gt;. As a side note, 5800/6800 derailleurs have more complicated installation procedure than older models, make sure to &lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-FD0002-03-ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;download dealer's manual&lt;/a&gt; and read carefuly for instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T05:37:19.707" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T05:37:19.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29388" CreationDate="2015-03-12T02:32:03.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure that the cable is tight enough so that the brake levers do not &quot;bottom out&quot; when you squeeze them.  When squeezed as tightly as possible the levers should still not bottom out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the brake pads and the rim face.  Use soap and water, then wipe with rubbing alcohol.  Get some fine sandpaper, slide it between rim and pad, facing the pad, squeeze the brakes gently, and work the sandpaper (turning the wheel slightly) to sand any glaze/grease off the pads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double check that the brake levers and the brake arms are &quot;made for each other&quot;.  If someone replaced the caliper brake levers with V brake levers, eg, then the force ratios would be way off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T02:32:03.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29419" CreationDate="2015-03-12T09:00:14.640" Score="6" ViewCount="5553" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey I am about to buy a used bicycle and recently I got offer for Peugeot bicycle. We both do not know the price to agree on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is how to evaluate price of an used bicycle? (where to put the most focus)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The bike:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Age: around 10 years Gears (front and back): Shimano 105 (seems all&#xA;fine) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame: used but still in very good shape &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brand: Peugeot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pic:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Vtj0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess no more info. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13357" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T19:50:40.950" Title="How to evaluate used bicycle price?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29416" CreationDate="2015-03-12T10:26:16.310" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you know the model and exact year Bicycle Blue Book is a good place to start. This is a link to all the models for Peugeot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/BicycleDatabase.aspx?make=718&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/BicycleDatabase.aspx?make=718&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18661" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T10:26:16.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29416" CreationDate="2015-03-12T10:28:51.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That bike is much older than 10 years. Probably somewhere in the '80s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike pictured below is quite similar to yours, and was built in 1985.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XjMm8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: Peugeot 1985 product folder]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note however that these frames are generally of good quality, and if not terribly rusty can be used for many more years (and of course are very cool and retro looking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These old racers still make for great touring/commuting bikes! (Not entirely unbiased as I have multiple bikes like this and love them a lot!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The price of such a bike, given that the frame is OK, is mostly determined by the state of all other components (wheels, gears, seat etc.) By the looks of it, most of the stuff on your bike is original, and &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like it's in good shape (definitely check this for yourself, photos are deceiving).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything is ok, I would probably pay around 100 - 150 € for this. Don't be fooled because of the supposed retro-coolness, these bikes are quite abundant and not rare at all. &#xA;If everything is not ok, drop the price below 100€ and do some work yourself, very rewarding and fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T13:34:26.253" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T13:34:26.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29416" CreationDate="2015-03-12T11:07:48.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;measure the chain stretch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sight if the chainrings and cogs are worn out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the wear of the tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove the seatpost and peak inside the frame for rust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pull the brakes and inspect closely the cables for rust&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;check the wheels for trueness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;measure the weight of the bike with an electronic scale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rock the handlebars gently to check for drag in the headset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rock the rear derailleur sideways to check for play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then select a modern bike of similar weight and number of gears. I would ask for 1/2  the price if all of the above points turn out OK, or less if some are obviously bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point to consider is if the bike is fit for upgrading with modern components at some point. For example, current standards are oversized (1 1/8&quot;) or tapered forks, removable derailleur hanger, 8-9-10 speed frame (I believe those use the same 135mm rear spacing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T13:53:12.327" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T13:53:12.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29416" CreationDate="2015-03-12T14:59:19.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With shimano 105 it must be from the 90s. Are gears indexed? I paid 140 € for a similar bike, and the 105 works like charm. See what steel the frame is made of too, and look it up con internet to get more refetences. But those are great bikes for the money. Not actually retro, I' d say; most retro races allow bikes up until 1987, a bike from say 1994 is too new to be retro, and too heavy to compare to new bikes, but they are still light and from my experience, shimano 105 ages really well. Really good commuter that you can leave on the street, but also can take you on long road routes. I've kept up with mine on 100 km route with modern bikes, so, good for initiate in road biking. I'd say go for it, if it works well, and I suppose you could resell for around the price you pay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T14:59:19.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20591" CreationDate="2015-03-12T15:20:04.027" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own &amp;amp; ride an XDS COM10 2014 bike. This is fitted with a Sussex (Taiwan) shaft drive transmission &amp;amp; Shimano Nexus 8 speed hub gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used it regularly for over a year &amp;amp; travelled about 4000km on it without any issues . It works perfectly, smooth  &amp;amp; quiet.I thought it was very reasonably priced at about AUD700 brand new on-line.&#xA;It is very similar to ride as a Trek S500 2007 Nexus 8 speed chain drive bike I own, only without the chain maintenance. I intend to fit it with Shimano Roller brakes like the Trek S500 which would make it about as maintenance free as one could get with a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downside would be the proprietary nature of the shaft drive system but it appears to be a high quality product &amp;amp; I think it will be durable But I didn't pay that much for the bike anyway &amp;amp; bought it because of the unique factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front drive is totally sealed, the rear drive well protected &amp;amp; both are well lubricated. It is the same system used for more than 20 years by Dynamic Bicycles USA.&#xA;Removing/replacing the rear wheel is easy &amp;amp; easier than the chain drive Trek bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I note that there is plenty of negative opinion about this type of bike but it seems to come from people who have not actually experienced using them, which is disappointing as I think they have a lot going for them for recreational/commuting use, as do internal hub gear bikes in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works for me !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18666" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T15:20:04.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29119" CreationDate="2015-03-12T15:53:56.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were able to shift into all of the gears prior to your adjustments then it would make sense that you need to readjust.  It sound like you you have adjusted it too far outboard.  I would take it in significantly so that when in 1st gear position on the shifter you are on the largest cog.  From there you can make fine adjustments for shifting between gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18654" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T15:53:56.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-12T18:21:31.103" Score="2" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;As part of a bike fit I had done recently I had my well broken in Brooks Team Pro Classic pressure mapped (via the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gebiomized.de/?lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GebioMized&lt;/a&gt; system). (A pressure mapping creates a 2-dimensional mapping of the pressure exhibited across the saddle - useful for modifying fit). The results were quite astounding; an incredibly low pressure mapping, so low we were mostly at the limit of what could be detected by the system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was suggested doing some more testing and writing it up for publication (we had a long discussion of all the years of trial and errors I have done with Brooks) - which I am interested in doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My questions pertains to existing literature, some of which is not easily searchable through general internet searches.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any published pressure mappings of leather saddles such as Brooks?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any canonical sources out there for breaking in and setting up a leather saddle?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most discussions appear to be opinion based short articles, forum discussions and other largely non-citable dialog.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most also discuss a general trial-and-error approach with some anecdotal accounts, nothing measurable and repeatable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As always Sheldon Brown has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/leather.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nice summary&lt;/a&gt;, but I wouldn't consider it an in-depth guide. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T18:28:10.833" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T19:56:26.340" Title="Pressure mapping a Brooks saddle" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;leather&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="19" ClosedDate="2015-03-13T10:18:23.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4602" CreationDate="2015-03-12T19:46:04.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lube on the levers for the last bit that does not fit has worked for me. And a big difference, from almost breaking them, to just pop in. This on an old wheel that seems to be a little bit bigger than standard, always gives this problem. Sometimes just olive oil, maybe butter.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastEditorUserId="18463" LastEditDate="2017-10-27T10:55:49.057" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T10:55:49.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29416" CreationDate="2015-03-12T19:50:40.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely an 80's frame and this was the best character of these bikes. Since that manufacture era, gears and brakes, even seats have evolved and you can buy better tech. These frames were steel and they are great commuters (for streets not so friendly). &#xA; For me the price is directly related to how much stuff I do not need to replace or upgrade.&#xA;The wheels look newish (that is where I would start). I might pay $275 to $325 for it and replace the seat. Grips look okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18582" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T19:50:40.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29393" CreationDate="2015-03-12T20:13:38.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in the southern most part of Nashville, TN (quite hilly with a major hill between my community and the rest of Nashville). I ran into @Blam's point exactly and have been considering investigating this new technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseable.mit.edu/copenhagenwheel/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://senseable.mit.edu/copenhagenwheel/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight is the lowest comparable to other options (battery variable).&#xA;TOP SPEED   US: 20 mph, EU: 25 km/h&#xA;BRAKE TYPE  Rim brake and regenerative braking (downhill and back-pedal)&#xA;WEIGHT  5.9 kg / 13 lbs&#xA;DROPOUT 120 mm (single speed), 135 mm (single speed and multi-speed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't ridden one yet but it may be worth investigating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18582" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T20:13:38.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-12T21:02:14.633" Score="4" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is the right place for this... But I'm wondering how I can make 'good' jumps. I've made a few using a 1 tonne digger.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qb1lU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tabletop&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pahZM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;another tabletop&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the tabletop with the pallet a gap at first but I made it a tabletop for more fun. They're okay to jump, but the problem is the landing is really soft and I've watered it, compacted it, done everything I can think of any it's still loose dirt?? &#xA;So my question is how can I make reliable jumps? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17234" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T21:34:28.277" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T12:44:37.420" Title="How to build good jumps?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29433" CreationDate="2015-03-12T21:34:45.053" Score="1" ViewCount="777" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I purchase a bike with shimano di2 will it be able to readjust its rear dérailleur to accommodate different rear hub types? If this is possible is it a quick and easy process that can be done before a ride or does it require the shifters to be plugged into a computer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T10:02:52.110" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T10:08:15.387" Title="Can shimano di2 be programmed to be automatically readjust shifting for different hub/wheel types?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shimano-di2&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-13T05:13:09.310" Score="1" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am seeking information on this bicycle found in our farm shed.  The bike is blue with very thin white stripes.  There is a serial number on the top of the bike where the seat attaches.  It is 4E8736&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6s6B7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Side view of bicycle&quot;&gt;  It is located in Canada, possibly Canadian or US made. Any information greatly appreciated, thank you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18678" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T11:39:48.810" Title="Barn Bicycle Find Information appreciated" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29431" CreationDate="2015-03-13T10:02:15.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick answer:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to use a PC, and you would need to make sure that the wheels had reasonably close original chain line positions for this to be possible. If not, then no, you can't do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano's E-Tube software does allow you to save presets for adjustment and switch settings.  That means you could have multiple presets saved for the electronic portion of the shifting adjustment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the difference in required settings between the wheels is more than could be adjusted for by adjusting cable tension on a mechanical system, then you will still need to adjust the limit screws on the rear derailleur.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since those are still a manual adjustment, there is no way to ensure that swapping between wheels on an electronic system is possible using only the preset system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is no way at present to swap between presets on the fly with the road Di2 system, so you would need to plug the system into the E-Tube software on your PC.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the the possibility that this might change, since the new 2015 XTR Di2 system has the ability switch between shift maps using the SC-M9050 Display Unit. At present, though, shift maps only affect the order of shifting for XTR's Synchro shift system.  They do not allow shifting between preset shifting adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Display Unit is functional with the road Di2 systems, it is possible that a firmware update could enable the ability to swap between presets.  Without the ability to make the manual adjustments the preset swapping would have limited utility for this purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T10:08:15.387" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T10:08:15.387" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29432" CreationDate="2015-03-13T10:15:30.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't tell a great deal from that picture alone... Can you supply some clearer pictures?&#xA;in daylight side on view looking at the chainring side would be best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tubing looks a bit too angular to be a &lt;b&gt;Western Flyer&lt;/b&gt; - but some of those did have dual top tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those slim rear stays look like &lt;b&gt;Raleigh&lt;/b&gt; or &lt;b&gt;RMI Roadster.&lt;/b&gt; &#xA;Maybe even a &lt;b&gt;Humber&lt;/b&gt;... although, I've not seen one with twin top tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What size are the tyres? it doesn't look old enough but if they are 28&quot; there's a possibility it could an old &lt;b&gt;Elgin.&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can provide more information I can try to provide a better identification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18587" LastEditorUserId="18587" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T11:39:48.810" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T11:39:48.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25605" CreationDate="2015-03-13T10:36:36.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many axle nuts for an internal gear hub will fit directly without modification. If yours does not, then there are options to fix that, similar to the set from Tacx below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many issues with trainers, there is a solution available for this issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a set of accessories designed to fit most solid or thru axle bikes.  You would need to make sure that you get a set that correctly fits your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tacx.com/en/products/trainers/booster/accessories-booster&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Details of the accessory kit here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MfIen.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tacx Trainer Accessories for Solid axles and Thru Axles&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T10:36:36.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29412" CreationDate="2015-03-13T16:42:00.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You still may want an inline adjuster, but if you don't have one, here's the procedure I use (I don't have one):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect cable from front derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift to small ring, large cog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the lower limit screw to put 1mm of clearance between chain and inner cage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the lower limit screw clockwise 1/2 turn (pushes cage further outboard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull cable tight with pliers and reattach.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the lower limit screw counter-clockwise 1/2 turn (undo adjustment from step 4). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps 4 and 6 allow you to add a bit of tension to the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6489" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-03-10T07:40:38.383" LastActivityDate="2019-03-10T07:40:38.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29440" CreationDate="2015-03-13T19:03:37.597" Score="0" ViewCount="1129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this road bike as my first road bike in 2011. I have not changed the chain or any parts on it since then and I bike on it almost daily. It's been running great, but sometimes I have trouble changing gears and I feel like the issues are getting more frequent. I had a major accident on this bike in 2012 learning how to use the clipless pedals but the bike landed on the opposite side of the cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the scratches in the picture below &quot;normal&quot; for a bike this old? Do I have to replace any parts? Is it safe to ride as-is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures: &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L2Qh6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Vx4l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18687" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T20:09:24.527" Title="Is my cassette or chain worn out?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29438" CreationDate="2015-03-13T19:21:01.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a chain wear gauge to see if the chain needs replacement (e.g. Park Tool CC-3.2).Generally, these err on the side of replacing a bit early, but if you want to be pedantic about it, you can use the Sheldon Brown link below to measure with a ruler. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the sprockets or chainrings, I'll &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;defer to this page&lt;/a&gt; by Sheldon Brown. The upshot is that worn teeth look like ramps and a non-stretched wont sit properly in the sprockets as shown in the image below (from Sheldon Brown)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BScR0.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T19:21:01.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29438" CreationDate="2015-03-13T19:24:44.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a picture of the chain ring not the cassette.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cassette is worn out then the chain is worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cannot tell anything about the larger chain ring but the small chain ring is not in bad shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the order they wear out:  chain, cassette, then chain ring.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You get 2-3 chain per cassette.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And typically 2 cassette per chain ring.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have ridden the bike daily since 2011 then safe to assume you need a new chain.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Easy to check with a chain wear tool - they are relatively cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you continue to ride on a worn chain the problem is that you wear cassette and chain ring  faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you lube the chain which is a good thing. &#xA;But you need to clean the chain every few lubes also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T19:44:33.077" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T19:44:33.077" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29438" CreationDate="2015-03-13T20:09:24.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those scratches are due to the chain rubbing as it shifts between chainrings.  They are more noticeable on your bike than most because you have black chain rings.  A Park chain wear gauge is a good way to tell if your chain is worn.  Alternatively, you can measure with a ruler as described, but it's much easier if you remove it from the bike.  The figure I use was 1/8&quot; of chain stretch per foot was too much.  If you let the chain stretch too much it will wear out your cassette as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T20:09:24.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29443" CreationDate="2015-03-14T08:52:05.773" Score="0" ViewCount="1215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Mt. bike with Shimano STX RC components.  I cannot reach the nut and lock nut to adjust the bearing tension.  Any ideas how to make an adjustment so I can reach it?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/60AcN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x4Z2Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, How do I tell if my rear sprockets need to be replaced.  Can anybody see it it needs to from the picture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5256" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T03:12:17.233" Title="Cannot reach the bearing adjustment nut on rear wheel" Tags="&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29442" CreationDate="2015-03-14T12:44:02.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could adjust the other end instead, so long as the cassette locknut is already tight against the cone (if it isn't, take the cassette off and do that first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&quot;For cassette hubs, or conventional rear hubs that I want to adjust without removing the freewheel, I use a thin 15 mm wrench and the two 17's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To loosen this type of hub, I usually do have to loosen the left locknut from its cone, loosen the cone, then re-tighten the locknut. To tighten it, the two 17's on the locknuts do the job quickly and easily.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T12:44:02.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30078" CreationDate="2015-03-14T13:16:28.160" Score="4" ViewCount="14985" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, how much runout can a bicycle wheel have and still be considered true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12767" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T01:56:27.503" Title="When is a wheel considered true?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29447" CreationDate="2015-03-14T13:34:02.407" Score="1" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following chain/gear setup:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AKLWk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to get rid of the rear wheel gears. However I don't want to buy any new parts. That is why I am wondering if I simply can remove all the parts from the rear gear shift, and simply shorten the chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18693" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T00:11:37.360" Title="Is it possible to shorten a chain?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29446" CreationDate="2015-03-14T13:53:15.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;NO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The derailleur holds chain tension.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a minimum your would need a chain tensioner.&#xA;And it would need to line up with A gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single speed and fixie have horizontal dropout to adjust tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T13:53:15.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29449" CreationDate="2015-03-14T15:09:32.263" Score="1" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0019HKEV8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SKS Rennkompressor&lt;/a&gt; with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003FVCWI4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;multi valve head&lt;/a&gt;. How do I probably use the head with a dunlop valve? I cannot get the dunlop valve fixed with the multi valve head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18693" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T16:56:57.410" Title="How to use SKS multivalve adapter with dunlop valve?" Tags="&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29448" CreationDate="2015-03-14T16:56:57.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The DE Valve, or Dunlop Valve, is the same size and thread as the presta valve, at the tip.  However, the length of the valve where it is the same diameter as presta valve is much shorter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pump heads which rely on the compression of an o-ring to attach to the valve, especially with multi-valve heads, often do not find enough surface area on the DE valve to stay attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no good solution to this problem, aside from changing the pump head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T16:56:57.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29445" CreationDate="2015-03-14T17:13:56.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard for what &quot;true&quot; means varies by mechanic and the intended use of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A perfectly true wheel, in the mechanical sense, may not be attainable. Roundness and lateral runout are measurable to .001 millimeters using commonly available shop tools. Most mechanics do not consider that tolerance necessary, but as that is the limit of the tools, that is what I would consider perfectly true. However it requires 4 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perfect roundness, measured by placing a gauge under the edge of the rim, and spinning the wheel. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perfect lateral runout, or rather a lack of runout. This is measured by placing a gauge at the brake track of the wheel, and rotating the wheel to track the runout.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perfect Dish.  Dish refers to the centering of the rim on the axle, or in some cases between the dropouts of the frame. This is measured using a truing stand or a dishing tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perfectly even and balanced spoke tension. Measure using a tensiometer, the value here will vary significantly based on the type of spoke, the size of the rim, the material of the spoke nipple.  But the constant here is that all the spokes should have exactly equal tension.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am well aware that the description here is of a mechanically perfect wheel, and that such a thing does not exist. It would require a perfectly formed rim, a perfectly machined hub, which perfectly drilled and finished spoke holes, and that each spoke be drawn from a perfectly pure metal at exactly equal and even dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty and simplicity of the bicycle wheel is that while our manufacturing tolerances are not up to that standard, the design of a spoked wheel allow you to offset the tolerances in one area with spoke tension. If a rim is not perfectly true and round, more or less spoke tension can be used to pull it true and round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a &quot;perfectly&quot; true wheel might not exist, but a functionally true wheel is relatively easy. And &quot;perfectly&quot; true isn't necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T16:48:35.620" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T16:48:35.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-14T17:30:36.550" Score="5" ViewCount="1810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Bullit cargo bike. It has a Shimano 39t chainring and a Alfine 8 rear hub. I was going to go for a Rohloff to get more gears, but the price is just getting stupid. I looked at the Alfine 11 but its lowest gear is reported to be the same as the Alphine 8 and I need lower gears to get me up hills. So I have now turned my attention toward buying a smaller chainring that will fit the 68mm HollowTech ii. But I have been thrown by the discussions about chain sizes. If I purchase a chainring with say an SLX 40,28T or Delore 38T,24T would this mean than my normal 1/8th chain would get stuck. fall off etc. And can you use a Deraillia shifter on a front chainring while keeping the rear hub? I am trying to keep my top speed but also obtain lower gears for the hills. I have used the Bullit to carry camping gear and my dog for many trips but now want to tackle some real mountains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18694" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T19:05:44.417" Title="Is it possible to use a two or three chainring with an internal hub?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29451" CreationDate="2015-03-14T18:07:32.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read about the Alfine 11 and 8, the lowest ratio is about the same, but the Alfine 11 has a greater highest ratio.  So you could use an Alfine 11 and a smaller front chainring.  Then your top gear would remain about the same, and your lowest gear would get lower.&#xA;Try this site for comparing gear ratios, I have found it to be extremely useful:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ritzelrechner.de&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ritzelrechner.de&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link will take you to a comparison of Alfine 8 + 39T and Alfine 11 + 33T:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ritzelrechner.de/?GR=SA11&amp;amp;KB=33&amp;amp;RZ=20&amp;amp;UF=2125&amp;amp;TF=90&amp;amp;SL=2.5&amp;amp;UN=KMH&amp;amp;GR2=SNI8&amp;amp;KB2=39&amp;amp;RZ2=18&amp;amp;UF2=2125&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ritzelrechner.de/?GR=SA11&amp;amp;KB=33&amp;amp;RZ=20&amp;amp;UF=2125&amp;amp;TF=90&amp;amp;SL=2.5&amp;amp;UN=KMH&amp;amp;GR2=SNI8&amp;amp;KB2=39&amp;amp;RZ2=18&amp;amp;UF2=2125&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T18:07:32.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29451" CreationDate="2015-03-14T19:05:44.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As is the case with 99% of the questions on this site, Sheldon Brown has an answer for us. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/org/otb.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/org/otb.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 63 speed bicycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recollections from previous discussions about this topic is that you need to be careful to not get too low a gear ratio; if you get the front chainring very small you can have problems with stripping the planetary gears in the Alfine hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, it is extremely unlikely that you have a 1/8 inch chain. Shimano generally recommends 9spd 3/32 chain for use with Alfine hubs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T19:05:44.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14261" CreationDate="2015-03-14T21:41:41.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally got tires on these wheels. I &quot;prestretched&quot; them by mounting them on another wheel and inflated them for a week. After this I could mount the tires. What a pain these wheels are. Dumb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18692" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T21:41:41.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="210" CreationDate="2015-03-14T22:51:58.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also use Todd Downs &quot;Bicycle Maintnenance &amp;amp; Repair&quot; book as it has great pictures and really explains things well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5256" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T22:51:58.243" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-03-14T22:51:58.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29446" CreationDate="2015-03-15T00:11:37.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have vertical dropouts, you'll need some sort of chain tensioner. You can buy one, or you can use the existing rear derailleur. You'll have to rig it up somehow so it stays in the same position (that is, so it's always lined up with the sprocket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly suggest reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's article on single-speed conversions.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RxNJE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T00:11:37.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29495" CreationDate="2015-03-15T01:55:41.320" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new commuter bike (&lt;code&gt;Marin Muir Woods 29er&lt;/code&gt;) and some clipless shoes that are &quot;walkable&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dzrshoes.com/midnight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;DZR Shoes 'Midnight'&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; so I don't have to carry bike cleats around with me.  However, when I ride I often get a tingling in the ball of my foot &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the common causes for this?  I was thinking shoe may be too big (I wear 10.5 US and picked up size 45 EU for the new shoes) as my heel picks up easily while walking around. Others mentioned moving the cleat back, but it already is pretty far back in the shoe.  I read the cleat should ideally be directly under the ball of the foot, is that not correct?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other insights to help alleviate this tingling/numbness would surely be appreciated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18700" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T03:22:48.570" Title="Foot Tingling with Clipless Pedals" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36126" CreationDate="2015-03-15T17:42:19.237" Score="1" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what I've gotten myself into, but I've bought electric bicycle motors and they didn't come with the connectors. Apparently the below link is the type of connectors I need. Is there an alternative distributor of these that I can buy just a couple from? Can I make them my self or cut them off and use a different connector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is this type of connector standard? Is there a datasheet for these pin-outs somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.batterybikekit.com/en/waterproof-plugin-for-bf-ebike-motor/127-9-core-waterproof-plug-in-connector-for-bf-ebike-motor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Must buy 50!&quot;&gt;I would like to get 2 of these, not 50&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18707" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T03:09:08.370" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T16:27:37.010" Title="Need Connector for Motor - I don't want to buy 50" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-15T17:53:53.233" Score="1" ViewCount="1162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my first bike with Shimano STI Shift/Brake Levers. So far, I really like the feel. I cannot, however, figure out how to tighten the brake cables. I can find the barrels for tightening the shifter cables on the side of the shifter, but the brake cables go under the grip tape on the handle bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question: The smaller shift levers on both sides don't like returning all the way to their resting position, and require a nudge to get them back. As far as I can tell, they are just rubbing against the larger shift levers. I assume this is normal and that once I use the bike a little they will spring back correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18708" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T23:52:55.207" Title="Adjusting Shimano STI Brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29429" CreationDate="2015-03-15T18:24:32.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could probably rent a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wackerneuson.us/en/productgroups/listgroup/compaction.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wacker&lt;/a&gt; ( yes, that is the real name ) at a local construction equipment rental store. It is a tool that ground construction workers use. It is basically a really heavy steel plate that an engine sits on. The engine vibrates the whole machine and the weight and the vibration compact the ground very tightly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd have to work in layers. Don't expect to compact the whole mound all at once. That is not the way it works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The giant rollers on freeway construction sites do the same thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T18:24:32.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29466" CreationDate="2015-03-15T20:14:11.370" Score="6" ViewCount="5973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a puncture in my tube on a bump in the tube that coincides with a dip in the spoke hole, and am not sure if I need to replace the rim tape or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen numerous posts about spoke induced punctures recommending either new rim tape if broken or filing the spoke down. However, over the spoke hole where my puncture occurred, the rim tape (which appears to be cloth tape, I did not install) seems fine, although a little off center but still covers the holes. There is nothing sharp, no holes in the tape, or any visible damage to the tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the puncture simply unlucky, or is there an issue with the tape, even though I cannot see any problems? I am not sure if the dips in the rim tape, which cause bumps in the tube, is an issue. From what I've seen, this is a common occurrence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of note, the bicycle has not been used for a couple months over the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LEl3T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of spoke hole where tube was punctured&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e1pFh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tube with puncture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18709" LastEditorUserId="18709" LastEditDate="2015-03-15T20:20:18.923" LastActivityDate="2020-05-10T14:47:40.190" Title="Tube puncture over spoke, but rim tape fine" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-15T20:55:08.157" Score="1" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use a Shimano XT group for my flat-bar disc-brake touring bike, but the XT crankset doesn't suit my touring needs very well. I would prefer having a 50/34 crank instead of the XT's 38/26.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To what extent is is possible to just change the crankset? I would like to keep the XT shifters etc., it's just the crankset that needs changing. Specifically, I'm considering putting on a Campagnolo Centaur Red&amp;amp;Black 50/34 crankset. Would this combination work? Does anyone have any experience with this or a similar setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much for your answers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18710" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T21:19:58.067" Title="Shimano XT with Campag Centaur crank?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29463" CreationDate="2015-03-15T22:03:48.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend replacing rim tape with a modern plastic one. You could inspect the existing cloth one, but then you would need to remove it to inspect the spoke ends. Cloth tapes often don't survive removal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the tape is off, inspect the spoke ends and the nipples. If one is sharp, use emery paper to remove the burr. Do not use a file: a single filing always avoids removal and causes another puncture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repair the tube and do whatever you think will bring luck - punctures like this can be tricky to solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the cause was grit that happened to work it's way in under the tube, and subsequently fell out, but the hole looks like a spoke puncture to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T22:03:48.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29463" CreationDate="2015-03-15T22:03:52.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Low tube pressure and similar dips, I have had it, and it caused cut, sometimes double cut, when hitting a curb or other crush on the pneumatic. Those made the air in the tube go out really fast. I changed rim tape and now keep pressure high, i e pump the wheel more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T22:03:52.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-15T22:56:22.087" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;My chain broke recently.  I fixed it by taking out a link with a chain break tool.  Now the it slips when I am in my smallest gear on the cassette.  I cannot find the stiff link in my chain and think I should replace it.  What type of chain do I have to use.  One designed for Shimano?  Attached is a picture of my cassette if that helps determine what type of chain I need.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y8Hgj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5256" LastEditorUserId="5256" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T03:41:53.283" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T03:41:53.283" Title="Replacing my chain" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29468" CreationDate="2015-03-15T23:05:40.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;8 speed cassette&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You need an 8 speed chain&lt;br&gt;&#xA;7/8 is the same size  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-03-15T23:29:40.040" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T23:29:40.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-16T00:09:58.720" Score="5" ViewCount="896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a Schwinn Meridian adult tricycle hoping to have a flexible means of exercise. After giving it a close look, I tried it with disappointing results. When pedaling from a stop, the chain sems to click and skip, and I can't get a full rotation wihout this happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I too heavy for this trike (350+) unmodified or is something wrong with it either from manufacturing or my assembly of it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of slack I can get pulling the secondary chain upwards:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BM33U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the amount of slack I can get pulling the secondary chain upwards&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overview of the chains:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TTOBB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overview of chains&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I can't add comments but thanks guys... I will try this and come back and confirm that it works if it does. I suspect it will. All it takes is a solid lean for the chain to fall off. I should've thought of it before, but having the frame slid out some seemed a bit sketchy to me so I ignored the chain part of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit 2: Ok, that fixes that specific problem. Thank you all. I unfortunately have other issues with this bike though. I may ask them later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18715" LastEditorUserId="18716" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T21:32:02.893" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T09:25:42.413" Title="New to bicycles; Bad setup, bad bike, or too heavy?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;tricycle&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-16T02:02:45.873" Score="1" ViewCount="2930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am newbie for cycling. When I change my gears, some lock sounds are coming from the chain. But if I do reverse pedaling while switching gears. No sound form chain, but gear switched to the right position? Is this good or am doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18560" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T02:43:16.603" Title="Is reverse pedaling good for smooth gear change?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29472" CreationDate="2015-03-16T02:43:16.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most setups are supposed to have at least some sound when switching gears. Depending on your derailleur/setup the sound may vary from a short click to longer sound of chain grabbing around the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The switching is supposed to happen without pedaling backwards, so you should not do it. Normally it is not okay to switch gears with highly tensioned chain, such as during the climbing, so you should find a moment to switch speeds when pedaling forwards will not have any effect on speed, which means the speed must be higher than the speed you could achieve by pedalling. It sounds very complicated, but in real life should happen almost instinctively, without thinking at all, just get the &quot;feeling&quot; on what gears lead to what speeds with your cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the switching is not smooth anyway, there's good chance you have to adjust the derailleur. Some random manual on how to do it can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artscyclery.com/learningcenter/shimanorearderailleurs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.artscyclery.com/learningcenter/shimanorearderailleurs.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T02:43:16.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29442" CreationDate="2015-03-16T03:12:17.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to remove the cassette you will need a cassette removal socket/tool. The nut you are trying to reach is the hub bearing lock nut. If there is no hub play it should not be wrenched on. The tool/socket can be purchased from Park Tools or at any bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18718" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T03:12:17.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-16T04:02:50.450" Score="1" ViewCount="794" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happened to be given a decent bike - Trek 1000 - in a good condition. The only problem is that the frame is only 56 cm while I am quite tall so I need ~62 cm. Is it possible to take all the nice parts from the current bike and put it on a new/used larger frame? I think all of the parts should fit the new one, I am just not sure about the fork. I do not know much about bikes neither I ride a lot (at this point), so any advice is greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18719" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T10:50:00.633" Title="Swapping a road bike frame for a bigger one?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29475" CreationDate="2015-03-16T10:50:00.633" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very doable project. However, the cost benefit will vary. You need to be very sure of what parts will be reusable.  If you are going to pay your local shop to do the work then as @Eric Smekens has said, sell the old one and look for a bike that fits. If you are planning on doing it yourself it is an excellent way to learn how your bike works and how to do your own service. You must consider the cost of the special tools you'll need to buy, and if they will be used enough to justify the expense. Some cost considerations you may not have thought of. You may find some of the bearings serviceable, but not worth paying someone to reinstall them. Some parts may need to be replaced because they won't fit the new frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T10:50:00.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28886" CreationDate="2015-03-16T12:42:58.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the inside of the brake jaws there is a nut for positioning the pad. Try adjusting it.&#xA;I had this problem 2 months ago&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your goals will be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw/unscrew the brake pad holder with an Allen key&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the pad close to the disk, the closer, the better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secure it with the bolt on the side ( if any )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that don't work take a look how did you bolt the jaws to the fork/frame. If the tension is OK place some spacers under the bolts to adjust the jaws position, so the disk will go in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember: All the surface of the brake pads should contact the disk at the same time or your brakes will wear out soon. That's why remember not to tilt the jaws !!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17257" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T10:18:21.630" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T10:18:21.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29470" CreationDate="2015-03-16T13:28:23.750" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would venture to say (and Blam confirmed with his link to the manual) that you have some excessive slack in that chain, and removing it would help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your first picture, where you're holding the chain, it looks like there is a lateral movement available on what appears to be the axle shaft, to the right. I'd loosen those bolts and try to slide the rear axle backwards to tighten up the chain. Since you have a trike, you'll have to move both sides of the axle evenly backwards to keep the wheels parallel to your direction of travel, or you'll end up with the tires scrubbing as you roll forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the scratch marks on the frame, it looks like you may have played with this already, and if the axle is at its furthest rearward setting, you may have to move the intermediate axle (the left one in your two pictures) forward. Of course, doing so will introduce slack in the other chain. Since the other chain is likely connected to the cranks, which won't have any fore-aft adjustment, this may not work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves you with option 3 which would be to remove some links from that intermediate chain (the one you're holding in picture 1), then readjust the rear axle forward to accommodate the now shortened chain. To do this, you'll need a chain tool that will push the link pin out of the chain, then push it back in when you've taken out a couple of links. You can buy one (bring the trike with you, as different chains may need different size tools), borrow one from a friend, or take the trike into a shop which will have a stock of them in their shop. They probably wouldn't charge much to make a small adjustment like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After a second look&lt;/strong&gt;, it looks like the slotted frame that holds the secondary chain is a separate piece that can be pushed backwards to tighten up that chain. Loosen the bolts holding the intermediate axle (on the left), then push that slotted frame backwards to tighten the chain (again, make sure it's even to keep your rear wheels parallel to the direction of travel), then tighten. Confirm this with the link to manual in Blam's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18643" LastEditorUserId="18643" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T14:57:47.980" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T14:57:47.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29470" CreationDate="2015-03-16T14:56:41.027" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it did not come with a manual you can get one online  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.schwinnbikes.com/media/s/c/schwinn_meridian_manual.pdf&quot;&gt;MERIDIAN OWNER'S MANUAL&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 12 states how to install the secondary chain&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It states the secondary chain should have less than 5 mm of play up or down   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T14:56:41.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29400" CreationDate="2015-03-16T15:48:04.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried doing a &quot;cross&quot; toe-in/toe-out with my brakes (really just adjusted the right-front to be toe-out and left the left one alone with its &quot;toe-in&quot; ).  They have been virtually silent for 3 short rides so far.  I'll update if this changes with wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18655" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T15:48:04.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29464" CreationDate="2015-03-16T18:01:13.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things to keep in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will the current front derailleur work with the new chainring sizes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have enough adjustment range in the position of the front derailleur,      this can almost always work with a double chainring. However, it may require some grinding of the cage on the front derailleur. The outer edge of the cage needs to&#xA;match the curvature of the outer ring and the inner edge needs to clear the smaller chainring when the chain is on the big ring. I think the XT derailluer can work, but Shimano also makes a flat bar component group that might better match&#xA;the crank. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/road/flat_handlebar.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Shimano Flat Bar Road Group&quot;&gt;Shimano Flat Bar Road Group&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The new crank will require a different bottom bracket, does the new crank work with the size bottom bracket on your bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most MTB's have a wider bottom bracket, 73mm vs the 68mm common on road bikes. &#xA;Depending on the exact configuration of the crankset and axle you may be able to solve this with spacers, but the cranks need to clear the chainstays. For a &quot;touring&quot; frame this should not be a problem, my guess is that it would come with the 68mm standard BB width.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does the rear derailleur have enough capacity to work with the new gears? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The capacity is (Big - little front)+ ( Big - little back ). 50-34 = 16, 38-26 = 12. That should not be enough of a change to matter. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T19:15:59.000" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T19:15:59.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29400" CreationDate="2015-03-16T18:02:04.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a persistent problem with squealing Shimano LX V-brakes years ago. Switching to XT V-brakes  and trying 5 different kinds of brake pads didn't help.  Toe in, toe out, no toe, mistletoe - nothing made any difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually I got a new fork with disk brake mounting tabs and installed an inexpensive mechanical disk brake (Avid) and never had to worry about any part of the brake ever again.  It was easy to install and 100% trouble free for over 5 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T18:02:04.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-16T18:47:33.307" Score="0" ViewCount="1189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a genesis max air from Walmart last fall used it a few times before the winter and two weeks ago brought it back out.  For the last two weeks me and the wife have been riding about 8 miles everyday and went and rode some trails last Sunday.  So far the bike has been alright but I think I would feel better if I reassembled it.  So I was seeing if someone knew of a guide or video on how to tear it down and put it back together or really any suggestions on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problems I've already noticed is the front derailer won't shift into third it's like the cable is all the way tight in second and the disc on the front wheel is sitting way too tight in the brake.  I don't have any experience working on bikes but I own a construction Company and am a trained mechanic (I service all of my equipment) so I think I could figure it out with some help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18717" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T23:23:35.310" Title="guide to correctly assemble a Walmart bike" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-03-20T23:14:54.647" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29496" CreationDate="2015-03-16T19:22:16.717" Score="2" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some bent bicycle rims and would like to straighten them. I drew a basic scheme of what I want to do, the idea is to make a &lt;em&gt;concrete&lt;/em&gt; plane mold as seen in the design to exert pressure on the bent rims. The details are on the figure. Would you have some design and/or material suggestion? It's OK if you think it's useless I will appreciate the advice.&#xA;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vxg34.png&quot; alt=&quot;STRAIGHTEN RIM TOOL&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18728" LastEditorUserId="1104" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T00:11:19.193" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T00:11:19.193" Title="Can I straighten bent rims between two flat surfaces?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29506" CreationDate="2015-03-16T21:32:27.183" Score="1" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any rules regarding parking an RV/Campervan alongside the Tour de France course?  Can you just park anywhere that isn't yet closed off?  How long before the race comes by do you need to get there?  How soon after the race can you leave?  I'm asking specifically about stages in the French Alps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1230" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:48:56.110" Title="Tour de France RV/Campervan parking policy" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-16T22:03:21.807" Score="0" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a disc rotor alignment question you maybe can help me with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Canyon Nerve AL+ 8.0 that's been working nice until the front wheel got stuck on the brake. First I thought it was a brake issue but now I'm not so sure. When I inspected the wheel placement it looks as if the wheel is misaligned on the &quot;hub tube&quot;. I took a few photos to illustrate the potential problem. But can only post two of them here (2 link limit, not enough reputation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how the caliper aligns with the socket when on the rotor. Not very well at all.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=5FF9BFDF1E0E64EB%2120369&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=5FF9BFDF1E0E64EB%2120369&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=5FF9BFDF1E0E64EB%2120370&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=5FF9BFDF1E0E64EB%2120370&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake worked fine for a year then all of the sudden the front wheel got stuck. If I attach the caliper to the socket the right pad presses firmly against the disc rotor. It looks as if the whole hub has moved a few mm to the right on the &quot;tube&quot;. The wheel is not centered in the front fork. The rear wheel IS centered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the front wheel supposed to be centered. If so can I fix the hub alignment myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18729" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T15:45:34.880" Title="Disc Rotor Alignment Mavic Crosstrail" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29486" CreationDate="2015-03-16T23:23:35.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are mechanically inclined most of the adjustments are straight forward. There are many on line tutorials, Park Tools website and the often mentioned Sheldon Brown are my personal favorites. As @ Batman has stated BSO (bicycle shaped object) can be frustrating to maintain. I have serviced them and the bearings don't get any smoother when I assemble it than it did from the factory. The primary concern from the design is will it function (not is it smooth ,is it light ,is it durable)  with parts from a certain pricepoint To use a comparison you may relate to. If I buy a tablesaw for $125 it may last me 20 years of occasional homeowner use, if you used it commercially it will fail much sooner. A Walmart grade bicycle will function fine for an occasional ride before it needs maintenance. A higher quality bike (not just when new but after years of use) will be easier to tune and stay in tune longer. It will be repairable and upgradable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T23:23:35.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29487" CreationDate="2015-03-17T02:30:16.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a metallurgist, but I would think that once the rim is bent enough that you're looking to straighten it, it's been weakened enough that I wouldn't trust it for riding on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18643" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T02:30:16.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29457" CreationDate="2015-03-17T03:22:48.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the shoes seem a little too big, try some insoles. Start with the inexpensive ones you can find in a drugstore for $10. That will keep your foot from moving around inside the shoe without having to tighten the straps/laces so much. And maybe the extra cushion provided by the insoles will make the shoes feel a little more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T03:22:48.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29487" CreationDate="2015-03-17T04:30:30.107" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not going to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't permanently change the shape of the rim by just smooshing it between two concrete discs, as in order to permanently bend metal you need to exceed the yield stress of the metal and plastically deform it. This means that to bend something to a shape, it has to be precisely bent further than its ultimate designed bend, then elastically bend back to the destined spot. Your concrete discs will not achieve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is tricky enough to form a suitably round rim from a perfectly straight piece of freshly extruded, homogeneous aluminum. Once the rim has been bent, it will have been cold worked, and the mechanical properties will not be uniform along the entire rims length. Thus, trying to precisely bend it back into shape will be impossible as the yield strength and elastic behaviors will not be fully known throughout the entirety of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to heat treat it won't save you either as that will cause the rim to get softer as it will undo the designed-in cold working of when the rim is created at the factory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, this scheme, even if it was possible, would only adjust side-to-side trueness, and would do nothing to adjust vertical trueness. You'd also have to remove the hub and spokes, and at that point you might as well just get a fresh rim. In fact if your rim got bent while it was a wheel, many of your spokes are going to be wrecked anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a rim is significantly bent, it's only future destination is recycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T04:43:18.507" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T04:43:18.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T09:15:28.753" Score="5" ViewCount="1721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building (experimenting if you wish) something out of the old bike parts and I need to fix two parts together one titanium and carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the parts are two tubes one made of carbon of a lower diameter and one made of titanium. So the carbon tube goes inside the titanium tube and I need to find a way to fix it inside for good. I guess it should be some kind of a hardcore gluing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone have any experience or suggestions please share. Thank you!   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastEditorUserId="13097" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T14:56:44.710" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T00:06:59.540" Title="What's the best way to fix carbon to titanium?" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;titanium&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29498" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T11:46:01.323" Score="1" ViewCount="5329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure why I get a pain in my toes. After some 75 km of cycling, I don't find it right. The blood starts to clot in the tip of the toes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After I lift my legs while lying down, it gets alright.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am not new to cycling. I have done a lot of cycling but not much with my clipless shoes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I feel that the shoes are sharp in front end to add to the aerodynamics.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Should I change my shoes? What should I check for while buying clipless shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T07:01:44.247" Title="Pain in the toes while cycling using clipless shoes" Tags="&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29488" CreationDate="2015-03-17T11:58:24.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/#q=tour+de+france+spectator+tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;research&lt;/a&gt; suggests that there is no absolute answer to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.freewheelingfrance.com/tour-de-france/watching-the-tour-de-france.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Watching the Tour De France in person&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're planning on camping out on top of the more popular mountains, try to arrive a good two days prior to the race coming through to get a prime parking and/or camping space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Road closures&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have decided where you would like to see the Tour, check prior to arriving – or with the local tourist office as soon as you arrive – to see which roads are going to be closed (and when).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://inrng.com/2013/05/watching-a-grand-tour/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spectating Tips For A Grand Tour&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The race website or local newspaper will have the schedule listing when the race will pass. However this is more for information because on a big mountain stage all the roads are blocked from the morning onwards. The roads close well in advance of the race. There’s no fixed time but on a big mountain stage you can expect the route to be closed at breakfast time to cars. It’s why many will drive up the day before and camp overnight, indeed even if you drive up a climb you’ll find many of the parking places are taken days before by camper vans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another site (can't find it right now) said that the Gendarmes can close roads or move you on as they see fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, many people want to see it, and there are no guarantees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T11:58:24.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29498" CreationDate="2015-03-17T12:36:57.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ensure your shoes are the correct size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first started serious riding, I got cycling shoes in a size 42, and they were fine. As I continued through high school and college, I continued to get size 42, even though my feet would be sore by the end of a ride. Finally, my last year of school, I got a new pair in a size 43, and it made all the difference in the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18643" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T12:36:57.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29429" CreationDate="2015-03-17T12:44:37.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your landing is soft you should put some old carpet over it. This solution is not as good as having a completely packed landing and it's still soft (therefore more rolling resistance), but you can carry a lot more speed once you have landed. An added bonus of using carpet is that the soft landing will not be damaged as much by you landing on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14702" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T12:44:37.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2015-03-17T13:00:15.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy/get an old smartphone, after uninstalling unnecessary software (almost everything) install MMR/endomondo/strava app, insert expired sim card (still connecting to BTS stations - better tracking accuracy) then you have a great cheap bicycle computer with track logging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18734" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T13:00:15.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T13:36:57.907" Score="3" ViewCount="1022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember taking it for granted, but then somebody gave me some reasons on climbing not affecting the chain, and I forgot about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I just got scared that my chain might break when struggling on some really steep hill I recently discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:12:31.047" Title="Does climbing put extra stress on the chain, making it stretch out faster / higher break risk?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;hills&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2015-03-17T14:03:02.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like how segment competition makes me go for a ride and push harder than usual. For a casual rider it can make you improve, if you are not in clubs or racing. Simple logging went old faster without the competition edge. Then there are many segments ruined by people that &quot;forgot to turn strava off while on the work van&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other features like cadence and heart rate or speed, I don't have a need at the point i suppose the answer is very dependent on what are your goals &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T14:03:02.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29503" CreationDate="2015-03-17T14:07:30.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The amount of force you put on the chain makes it stretch faster and have a higher risk of braking. Climbing can sometimes mean more force, but it doesn't have to. If you have the right gearing combinations on your bike, you should be able to climb without putting an excessive amount of force on your drivetrain. If, however, you have a single speed or fixed gear with a high gear ratio, you can put quite a bit of stress on the chain. If you're up out of your seat and putting a lot of power into it using your full body including arms and legs, there could be a possibility of the chain breaking spontaneously. If you regularly check your chain for wear and replace as needed, you shouldn't have to worry too much about your chain breaking unexpectedly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T14:07:30.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29488" CreationDate="2015-03-17T14:32:49.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of this is particularly good news for you I'm afraid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can park pretty much anywhere provided there's space, that you're off the road, and that the road isn't already closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an RV, in the Alps, I would think you need to think about being in place the day before. Certainly, they will close the roads to traffic probably no later than breakfast time. But it's not just whether the roads are open, it is whether there is anywhere to park (especially in an Alpine pass).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, road restrictions are lifted very shortly after the race has passed - 5 or 10 minutes. But be aware that, at that point in time, the world and his wife are trying to get away, so you're in an instant traffic jam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Life may get more complicated if you are on a mountain, and the stage has a mountain top finish. If this is the case, expect the teams and the officials to have priority getting down the mountain after the race is over. It wouldn't surprise me if you were held for some time before you could leave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you can do to try to counter all this is to park a distance away from the route, and then to either walk or cycle. This has worked for me in the past (especially beating traffic afterwards) but may or may not be practical for you. But certainly bicycles tend to be ignored by the gendarmes and you're pretty safe to be riding on the race route until shortly before the caravane passes (an hour or so before the race itself). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I go to the Tour de France I always come up with a cunning plan to try and beat the crowds, and it is never quite cunning enough, just because there are so many people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T19:48:56.110" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:48:56.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29508" CreationDate="2015-03-17T15:41:03.640" Score="0" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need to identify this cool bike in hopes to restore it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Serial # M3 G2058&#xA;Decals read: GT 4130 CRO MO, and TEAM on one &#xA;It appears to have been Chrome with decals and since painted over?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p0zSr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to all who try to help us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW - Cool site!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SdSHz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18737" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:05:17.887" Title="Help to identify this bicycle, please" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29507" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:39:00.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one piece seat-stay/chain-stay construction looks like a Hutch&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; from the early 80's however, having both the left &amp;amp; right side stays made from one bent tube doesn't match up exactly with anything I have looked at while browsing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bmxmuseum.com/bikes/hutch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BMX Museum&lt;/a&gt;. It might be something from the late 70s (they only have from 1980 on pictured there). Or it might be a &lt;strike&gt;knock-off&lt;/strike&gt; cheap copy of the Hutch design. That might be a good place to continue your search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the eBay prices of some of these bikes, I'd say you've &lt;em&gt;likely&lt;/em&gt; got yourself a valuable project on your hands!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*I picked Hutch based on one that was similar looking on eBay that came up in a search for &quot;bicycle gt 4130 cro mo team&quot;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18643" LastEditorUserId="18643" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T17:05:17.887" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T17:05:17.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29513" CreationDate="2015-03-17T16:58:36.127" Score="2" ViewCount="1622" Body="&lt;p&gt;My commuter bike is a converted cross bike (really just a cross bike with a rack on it).  It works great, but I occasionally wish I had a higher top end gear.  The crankset that came on it is a 36/46 cross gearing.  Is there any reason I can't just swap out the 46t chainring with a 52t?  It's all Ultegra 6800 stuff, and the cassette is an 11-32 cassette. I guess my biggest concern is that the chain might not be long enough if I ever cross-chain the 52t chainring and the 32t cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16941" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:20:40.290" Title="Is there any reason I can't convert a 36/46 to a 36/52 chainring?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29498" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:09:18.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to getting the right size shoes. Make sure the cleats are adjusted correctly. It sounds like you're getting something similar to &quot;black toe&quot; experienced by hikers and runners. It's usually caused by their toes getting jammed to the front of their shoes (imagine walking down a steep incline). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your cleats are too far back people tend to point their toes down while pedaling. The cleats should be centered under the ball of your foot, depending on riding style/ experience, they can be moved forward or back by a few millimeters. in a perfect world every shop would have professional fitment analysis to take the guess work out of all this. This also happens if the saddle is too high, people don't realize this when making the switch to clipless pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I use to tell clients when buying new clipless shoes is to make sure they are snug around your arch and heel, but you're able to wiggle your toes comfortably.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10351" LastEditorUserId="18643" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T12:15:12.090" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T12:15:12.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30610" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:20:15.993" Score="3" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a vintage road bike with Sun Tour Cyclone single-pivot calipers, with Cyclone levers.  I recently had the front brake cable housing &quot;detach&quot; from the brake lever. It appears to have a large 'ferrule'-type piece on the end of the housing. (what's the name of this part?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right lever appears to have the housing head straight into the lever, and appears crimped in.  It's not visible in the photo either way but I don't believe there is a similar cable housing ferrule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct method for me to get the rear-brake cable housing back into the brake lever, and secure it in place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Ix7y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Right lever&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ncxwx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Left lever&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15722" LastEditorUserId="15722" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T17:39:35.913" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T12:02:17.887" Title="Sun Tour Cyclone brake levers and brake cable housing" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29509" CreationDate="2015-03-17T17:43:39.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is: since 50/34 and 11/32 works well, because it is commonly used, so should 52/36 and 11/32. Same tooth difference (16) between the front chainrings. Same total capacity (read further).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev/EV-FC-6800-3609A.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this technical document&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For Item 11 (inner chainring), it says &lt;code&gt;Chainring 36T-MB for 46-36T/52-36T&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For Item 12 (outer chainring), it says &lt;code&gt;Chainring 52T-MB for 52-36T&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think you can conclude from that: 52-36 is supported by Shimano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the rear derailleur:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ultegra RD-6800 comes in two cage lengths: short (RD-6800 SS) and long (RD-6800 GS)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Use &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7264/how-to-calculate-the-capacity-of-a-rear-derailleur&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; as a guide to choose between the two.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your total capacity becomes &lt;code&gt;32 - 11 + 52 - 36 = 37&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;That's the maximum for the long cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now about the chain:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnRxNHkRh8Q&amp;amp;t=29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; illustrates perfectly how to determine the correct chain length. It shows that you need to use the inner chain ring and the smallest cog on the cassette (36-11). If you follow this rule, your chain length should be OK. Indeed the rear derailleur will be stretched even further than it already was in the other extreme (52-32).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also an interesting read: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/derailers-rear.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's take on derailleurs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12865" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:20:40.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29503" CreationDate="2015-03-17T18:12:31.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally chain stretch happens because of friction in the chain joints from dirt and grit slowly wearing away at the material, not from the actual metal deforming.  The extra stress from hill climbing will have very little effect on stretch over what you would get from the chain in the same condition in normal riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10974" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T18:12:31.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29516" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:13:46.060" Score="1" ViewCount="2638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this bike I got it from wal-mart many years ago. Same as this one on amazon: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00FNVBSAM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; Denali &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain rusted. I noticed that it listed the chain on amazon. Chain: KMC Z 51&#xA;I bought this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000AOA3PS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to put it on and figure out how it goes through the derailleur I think I figured it out. But it seems too big. Maybe I just didn't put it on right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to resize the chain to fit my bike? Are they standard sizes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18743" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:16:29.963" Title="Bought new chain. Do I have to remove links?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29515" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:16:29.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chains normally come with more links than you need, and you should use a chain tool to remove the excess links from the chain prior to installing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; from park tool shows you how to size a chain (but the easiest way is normally to just match the length to your old chain provided it was adequately sized and you didn't change anything else). This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-installation-derailleur-bikes&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; will show you how to install a chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T19:16:29.963" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T19:57:29.700" Score="3" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was riding down the bike lane when a car hit me from the side with it's side. I ended up being drug about 30&quot; or so before she came to a stop. I dont know her side of the story yet because I have not seen the police report yet. But what I'm wondering is who was in the right. &#xA;  As you can see in my poorly illustrated picture, I was close to the point when the bike lane crosses a traffic lane when the collision occurred. I did not see the vehicle until it was inches from my handlebar until it was too late. And I am not certain if she was crossing into that lane at the time either. From a distance, you can see the bike lane does this transition but there is no warning sign posted. &#xA;  Is anyone at fault, or is it considered a no fault accident?&#xA;Thanks for any insight. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m143/brainfarth/BIKE%20LANE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A diagram of the junction&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m143/brainfarth/bike%20path.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A sattelite photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18744" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-09T18:04:15.737" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T19:38:47.173" Title="Goofy bike lane configuration right-of-way" Tags="&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:53:59.493" Score="3" ViewCount="3171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am hoping that a mechanical engineer can give an educated answer to my question here. I am concerned about this because I have always had some trouble with spokes pulling through the rim on the rear wheel of my touring bike. (I use a 36 spoke wheel.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider this: In general, a rear tire will wear at least 3 times faster than the front because of the forces applied to the rear wheel from pedaling. And for this same reason, we have far more problems with rims and spokes on the rear wheel than the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make the point that the relatively small forces associated with pedaling, all of which are transmitted through the spokes, already cause the rear wheel and tire to fail much faster the front wheel and tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now consider that the rear brake alone can cause the bike to decelerate at a rate of about 5 times that which we can accelerate with the pedals, implying about 5 times the force to the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a traditional brake is applied, the forces are transmitted from the brake to the ground, primarily through the circumference of the rim. While there will certainly be some additional forces on the spokes, I don't believe it is substantial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a disc brake however, all the braking forces must be transmitted through the spokes. Isn't it logical then to assume that disc brakes will cause even more problems with the rear wheel and spokes than a traditional braking system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked a bike dealer about this, and he insisted that this wasn't a problem. He then went on to show me the new Surly Disc Long Haul Trucker. Curiously, this bike has mounting brackets for carrying 2 spare spokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that this is either a really dumb marketing gimick, or Surly has a significant amount of trouble with broken spokes on this bike and does this to assuage customer complaints. In my mind, one is just as likely as the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To repeat, do disc brakes aggravate the problem with broken spokes or spokes pulling through the rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;After reading the comments, I would like to explain that I am trying to understand the differences between a disc brake and a traditional braking system in the way the braking forces are transmitted from the ground to the bike frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to analyze the problem myself using force vectors, but lack the ability to reason through the problem. I suspect that disc brakes cause a great deal of additional stress on the spokes and rim, but simply do not know. That is why why I posted the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2nd Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I didn't intend to imply that I have a significant amount of wheel problems. I've been riding for over 30 years and at one time or another, I have been stranded at the side of the road for busting virtually every part on the bike, except the wheels. (Seat rails twice, seat post, frame, rear axle, bottom bracket, chain, pedals twice). I was only asking whether disc brakes aggravate wheel problems, of which we all have some degree of trouble with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7875" LastEditorUserId="7875" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T17:12:00.210" LastActivityDate="2018-08-25T18:30:23.167" Title="Will disc brakes aggravate the problem with spokes pulling through the rim?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:15:52.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use my Samsung S2 with an extended-life battery and the fantastic &lt;a href=&quot;http://getfinn.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Finn mount&lt;/a&gt;. I use Strava and ViewRanger apps (usually both at the same time). The whole setup is very cheap and knocks spots off the single purpose bike computers that I have seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would want to carry a phone anyway, so the weight consideration is entirely in favour of letting the phone double as bike computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18732" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:15:52.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29518" CreationDate="2015-03-17T21:26:38.470" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear wheel doesn't see more abuse solely due to forces from pedaling. It also supports much more weight, and they are dished (except single-speed wheels), so spokes on one side bear significantly more load than the other. &#xA;As Sheldon Brown says: &quot;If you have the same number of spokes front and rear, either the front wheel is heavier than it needs to be, or the rear wheel is weaker than it should be. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, a disc wheel can actually be stronger than a non-disc wheel, because it will have less dish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc braking does create some forces that require some consideration when building a wheel, but that is solved by proper selection of spoke gauges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes can offer a significant advantage over rim brakes for touring, as you can have a pretty badly damaged, out of true wheel, but still be able to brake reasonably well, as the wobbly wheel won't affect your braking, which can be the difference between riding vs walking to the next town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many ways wheels can fail in the wild, but spokes pulling through the rim on high-quality rims should not be one of them. What kind of rim does your touring bike have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So ultimately the answer is no, not necessarily. Like all bike part selections, they have upsides and downsides, and whether it's a net positive or negative depends on application.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, spoke holders on bikes have been around for far longer than disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T21:26:38.470" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8021" CreationDate="2015-03-17T23:02:16.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across a way of allowing an 8 speed cassette to work with a 9 speed shifter. The method I used is similar, though different to hub-ub's fix. I use an 8 speed cassette (HG51) with XT 9 speed shifter and a 9 speed XT derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gear cable (coming out from the barrel adjuster) goes around towards the wheel or the inside of the anchor bolt. You could pull the cable around the bolt and towards the back of the bike but it is not necessary (see image 1 and 2):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MUR8y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cd77K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image 2&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many derailleur anchor bolts have a 'hook and tab' part or plate between the bolt and the threaded-hole:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sOfHu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to get one of these from an older derailleur as some of the present day ones don't have ''hooks'', only the 'tabs'. The hooks are the bent parts of the plate in the image above. They fit over the edges of the threaded hole onto the body to make their own fittings more secure on the derailleur body.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two hooks have different size and one of them (whether the narrow or the wide depends) should 'face' towards the back of the bike, i.e. towards the barrel adjuster. The opposing hook will fit to the derailleur body. You'll see it when you're down there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B. there will be 'play' in the hook's position under the anchor bolt before you tighten the bolt. this is key to fine tuning the shifting. &#xA;The position of the 'edge' of the hook (touching the gear cable) when secure will affect how much the cable is shortened with each pull (movement) across the 'swing' of the derailleur, since subtle movements of the hook are what changes the cable pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The principle in this instance is the one of a 'cam' action. It's about cable pull and what happens at the hook if the position of the hook against the cable changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;wanted to add a few more details to what's already posted[for clarification].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the wider hook is the main one for use with 9 speed shifters and an 8 speed cassette, not the narrow one. found this out today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the 'narrow' hook is in play[?] to maintain an exact and secure fitting to the derailleur body[?].&#xA;am not sure if this is the case or if it's there for another reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the wide hook will fit exactly and won't move as the narrow hook does&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the narrow hook is a problem if used. a fair bit of tweaking is necessary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you have to manouver the narrow hook's position so that when cable is pulled tight the hook doesn't move. &#xA;if the wider hook is used instead, process is straight forward...tighten down the bolt make sure the gear cable is reasonably tight. tweak the shifting at the shifter adjuster and that's about it. job done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18746" LastEditorUserId="18800" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T18:24:10.443" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T18:24:10.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29512" CreationDate="2015-03-17T23:20:57.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that the cable has come out of the fixed non moving part of the brake lever but is still attached to the actual moving part of the lever. You can try to remove the wheel and close the brake caliper by hand. This may require a third hand or a wire tie to hold it closed. This will generate enough slack in the cable to reinstall it in the lever. Many vintage levers use a small ferrule on the cable end (possibly factory crimped) and a second larger ferrule to retain the cable end in the fixed part of the brake lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T23:20:57.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T23:24:37.267" Score="1" ViewCount="6562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching all over the web about washing bearings with Gasoline (and other gas products like desiel and kerosene). I've found some mixed answers. Some say it's good some say it isn't.&#xA;I want to remove dirt inside my bearings. (we don't have roads so it would always get dirty even it is shielded) And I know soaking it in a container filled with gasoline with remove those. But is it alright? &#xA;Won't it damage my bearing in some way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have access to any cleaning substance because I live in the forests of the Philippines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18747" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T14:10:14.023" Title="Is it fine to clean bearings with gasoline?" Tags="&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;trails&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T23:30:34.407" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple of months back, I installed a new rear wheel for my road bike. Its a wieman LP18. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I had to get it trued at-least three times. Is this normal for new wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18748" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T08:13:34.753" Title="New Rear Wheel goes out of true" Tags="&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29523" CreationDate="2015-03-17T23:57:09.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using gasoline as a solvent won't harm your bearings. It may dissolve some plastic components though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawbacks of using gasoline are mainly due to its properties other than as a solvent: it's volatility, flammability, and that it is toxic, as it will harm your skin if exposed to it for long periods of time, and that it requires careful disposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diesel is a bit better in those regards. I would recommend trying to source a lubricant that is not as toxic, but if gasoline or diesel is all you've got, it will do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T23:57:09.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29523" CreationDate="2015-03-17T23:59:00.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gasoline was used for many years as an inexpensive readily available solvent. There are a couple of real life issues with using gasoline for a solvent. It is very flammable thus a fire hazard. It is absorbed through the skin and it is toxic when inhaled in high concentrations. You have to find a way of disposing of the remaining dirty solvent. Pouring it on the ground can contaminate drinking water. If you have no other means of cleaning the bearings you can wipe them with clean rags. That still leaves the issue of disposing of the dirty rags .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T23:59:00.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6544" CreationDate="2015-03-18T01:27:15.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eat more if your power output drops, you take longer to recover from hard efforts, or notice other negative side effects. You can eat more of what you usually do or snack on high-calorie-density healthy foods like nuts if meals get too onerous. My google-fu and queries on the wattage list, bikeforums.net, and roadbikereview.com did not produce useful advice beyond that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not stop at an aesthetically pleasing or healthy weight - avid cyclists can get very skinny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of 2013 I'd grown to 205 pounds and 36&quot; around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stopped eating when I wasn't hungry, continued eating whenever I got hungry but snacked on mixed nuts or meats that stayed with me longer, and started only eating enough I was sated 30 minutes after stopping.  I got back in to road cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finished 2014 at 148 pounds with a 28.5&quot; waist after riding 5266 miles mostly at an endurance pace, about 135 a week after ramping up when not dealing with other issues.  That's past where ribs and sternum are visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started 2015 with a 450 mile rest month in January then got back to a normal 120-170 mile per week training program with intervals, a rest week out of every 4, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm down to 141 pounds with a 20.2 BMI and 27&quot; waist.  At 5'10&quot; that's somewhat meatier than climbing specialists in the professional peloton but skeletal by non-athletes' standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18745" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T01:27:15.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29523" CreationDate="2015-03-18T05:15:13.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If kerosene is an option, then go with kerosene. It's much safer than gasoline. Accidents happen. Be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T05:15:13.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29524" CreationDate="2015-03-18T08:13:34.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's normal for a new wheel that was under-tensioned, unevenly tensioned, inadequately stress-relieved or whose spokes are twisted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either that or it's being abused - ie. if you're really throwing it around, or are carrying heavy loads on the 24-hole version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The repeated re-truing may end up with a decent wheel, since you're just performing the stress-relieving step while riding instead of in the workshop. It may equally damage the wheel before you get there, and you really shouldn't have to pay to fix a bad build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T08:13:34.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29518" CreationDate="2015-03-18T15:22:32.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are overthinking the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately the stopping force needs to be transmitted to the center of mass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either rim or disk brakes the force is transmitted through the spokes to the hub and via the hub connection to the frame to the center of mass of bike and rider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't really matter if the rim is decelerating wrt to the hub ( rim brake )&#xA;or the hub is decelerating wrt to the rim ( hub/disk brake ), the force is exactly the same just in the opposite direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However in either case, the force is far less than the force due to gravity. If the wheel is strong enough to support your weight, it's strong enough to stand up to braking. The tire is going to skid long before the deceleration rate gets anywhere near the acceleration due to gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You put at least an order of magnitude greater force on a wheel riding through a pothole, than you ever will using your brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T15:22:32.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29518" CreationDate="2015-03-18T16:40:46.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slowing the wheel and stopping the bike are two different forces&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Clearly it takes less force to stop the wheel when you are riding as opposed to bike upside   down and wheel just spinning    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What stops the bike is the contact of tire with the ground&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That stopping force is transmitted to bike through the spokes&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That force is shared across all the spokes because the rim is solid   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake is a separate and equal and opposite force&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The only difference is which end the force came from&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On a rim brake the tensile force on the spoke comes from rim side&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On a disc brake the tensile force on the spoke comes from hub side&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Either way it is the same tensile force and the spoke does not really know the difference  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretend a magic wheel with two spokes&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The exact same forces&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDnVr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is as simple as the spokes are between the bike and the ground.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The force has to go through the spokes  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T15:16:05.937" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T15:16:05.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T18:39:32.933" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember seeing an illustration, in some article, of different riding positions. The cross-country guy leans low and forward, while the enduro rider was close to standing straight up. Both were represented riding seated at level ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? Are different mountain bike types characterized by specific height of the handlebars, relative to the saddle, and specific length of the headtube + stem? What motivates such design decisions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T19:51:28.950" Title="Compare optimal seated riding postions for different &quot;fields&quot; in mountain biking" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:18:57.450" Score="1" ViewCount="2433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced the brake pads of a Tektro Dorado system.&#xA;But now I cant hardly turn the wheel, the clearance between pads and disk is too small.&#xA;Bleeding wont help, that's only to remove air.&#xA;The auto adjustment (wear correction) must be reset, but how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18764" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T21:38:03.310" Title="How to reset pistons after replacing brake pads" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:39:00.143" Score="0" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;what is the average amount of pre load supposed to be on the front and rear wheels?? mountain bike. i know that if you leave just enough to barely feel movement in the wheel, then tighten wheel, seems like i'm constantly having to re adjust. if i put any load on it just past the no play area, it feels kinda ruff...but when i squeeze both ends manually like i'm installing it, it gets smooth...is the rufness correct before preload after tightening wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18765" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T22:32:23.353" Title="wheel bearing pre load" Tags="&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29537" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:45:18.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually you can just push the pistons back into the calipers.  Remove the wheel, remove the pads. Get some kind of tool suitable to prying, such as plastic tire levers or a wooden lever.  Insert it between the pads. Push/pry slowly and firmly and the pistons should retract.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that metal tools (e.g. screwdriver) are not recommended because they might scratch/chip the surface of the pistons. I don't know if this is an issue with metal pistons, but more likely to be a problem with ceramic pistons.  Perhaps someone can correct me in a comment if I got this wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this with Avid Elixir 5 brakes. I don't know if all hydraulic brakes work this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had cases where this doesn't work, and the solution was to remove a small amount of brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T21:38:03.310" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T21:38:03.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29536" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:46:20.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The position does change from one discipline to another. There are no fixed values or ratios, but, at least until recently the differences were significant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early day of mountain biking racing cross country was a long race (almost 3 hours) with few technical sections. Since these races were flatter, it was thought that aerodynamics could play a bigger role. Therefore the rider's frontal area was reduced with narrow handlebars seat much higher than bars, and longer effective top tube. Long stems came naturally to make up for short bars to make steering less nervous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then came the big split into numerous disciplines and different frame geometries came up for cross country, four cross, dirt jumping, enduro, downhill, freeride etc. Disciplines such as enduro required better bike handling and safety on steep slopes, therefore handlebars are wider, top tube is shorter and head tube is longer. This plus the fact that enduro was often defined as relaxed riding on mountain paths (it's still an arguable definition) caused rider's trunk to be almost vertical, which is more comfortable on a long trip. &#xA;Note: there are way more differencees in geometries for various disciplines, but we're only talking about rider's upper body position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days as world cup XC courses become more technical, cross country bikes get wider bars and a position safer on downhills. Tarmac/gravel sections are now much shorter so aerodynamic drag isn't an issue anymore (has it ever been?) and while top tubes on XC bikes are still longer (for better ascents) we can currently see more and more similarities between XC and gravity-sport bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastEditorUserId="14321" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T19:51:28.950" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T19:51:28.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29538" CreationDate="2015-03-18T21:13:34.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bearing adjustment is part science and part art. It is based on a sense of feel from trial and error. It should feel smooth when spun, with the least amount of play. If it feels rough it is too tight or dirty. I had the most difficulty with tightening the jam nut after I made the adjustment. It seemed that the cone always got too tight while I was locking everything in place. You may find it easier to have a helper hold a wrench on one side while you hold the other cone and tighten the jam nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T21:13:34.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-18T21:57:22.787" Score="0" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old KHS Team ST frame that I just threw components on about 15 years ago.  the drive train is SRAM esp 9.0 shifters and rear derailleur with a shimano HG cassette.  I have never been able to shift into the smallest cog.  I wonder if this frame (most likely 1999 or 2000) is compatible with a 9 speed drivetrain or if I am just absolutely horrible at bicycle maintenance.  I am also no longer certain that my chain is a 9 speed chain, but it probably needs to be replaced so I will be doing that anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some things I can look at to fix this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18768" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T23:32:03.440" Title="MTB 9 speed sram shifters/rear deralier, shimano 9 speed cassette (HG?) only shifts to 8 cogs" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29542" CreationDate="2015-03-18T22:11:24.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming your derailleur isn't &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bent&lt;/a&gt;, you need to adjust the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;derailleur&lt;/a&gt;. If the derailleur is bent, you will need to unbend it. Your shifters may not be catching the last gear as well, but you'd probably feel that when you tried to shift it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame has nothing to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T22:11:24.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29542" CreationDate="2015-03-18T22:24:36.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've already checked the lower limit screw of the derailleur, and also checked for a bent derailleur hanger, another thing to consider is cable friction. To get to the smallest cog, the derailleur spring has to move the derailleur all the way to the outside. While it's doing that, the spring is pulling the shifter cable out of its housing.  If there is a lot of dirt/oil/gunk buildup inside the cable housing, that would make it difficult.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the bike is fairly old, it's worth removing the shifter cable and lubricating the inside of the cable housing. Then you could either reuse the old cable if it's in good shape, or better yet, get a new shifter cable (should cost just a few dollars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T22:24:36.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T01:47:54.960" Score="0" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to replace my rear wheel because it isn't able to be fixed to be made true once again. The bike is an older Schwinn Tempo, the rear wheelset has a 6 speed freewheel. Or so that's what the guy at the shop told me. He only had wheels with casettes, and told me I wasn't able to use one of those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is, I'd like to get a new wheelset. Do I have to stick with the freewheel style? Or can I get a modern, casette type wheelset? If the latter, do I need to make any modifications? Adjustments?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18770" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:50:59.020" Title="I have a Schwinn Tempo which has a 6 speed freewheel" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29545" CreationDate="2015-03-19T01:55:03.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 6 speed bike has 126 mm rear spacing while more modern wheels will need 130 mm rear spacing (which you can fix by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#spreading&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cold setting&lt;/a&gt; the frame). If you're getting a new front wheel too, you will need to do this to the fork as well (likely). If you go 7 speed and up, you can get a cassette wheel, but if your Tempo has indexed shifting, you'll need to use friction mode (or get new index shifters) and adjust the derailleur accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Schwinn Tempo has 700c wheels and there are decent 700c freewheels with 126 mm hub spacing made by Velo Orange under their Grand Cru line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T01:55:03.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T04:06:28.400" Score="1" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own an 18 speed &quot;Columbia Journey Comfort Bike&quot;. Since having 2 knee replacements I find that I do not have enough knee bend to pedal. I have raised the seat &amp;amp; still cannot even do one revolution without severe pain. My bike shop says &quot;short-arm crank conversion&quot;. He is suggesting 152 cm but I wonder if something much shorter like a 135cm would enable me to pedal? Can anybody relate to my dilemma? What size crank do I need? I am a woman 5'6&quot; &amp;amp; my bike is a Men's. I just want to ride again!&#xA;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18771" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2020-07-21T16:33:24.473" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T16:33:24.473" Title="Will short arm crank conversion work for me?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29547" CreationDate="2015-03-19T06:01:00.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;We cannot tell you what size cranks you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps someone has direct or similar experience to help you with. If not, here's my advice ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order of preference&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Talk to the rehabilitation people who (I am guessing) helped with the knee replacements. Find out if they can advise you on this, or if there is a sports physiotherapist (or similar) that they recommend. Having those people talking to each other usually fast tracks the process. At the very least I think you need to know the likely consequences of your choices. Is OK to work through some pain or discomfort? How would you know that something is wrong? The more info you have the better.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a sports physiotherapist for yourself. If you already know one and they can't help, get a recommendation to someone who can.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As a last resort, get a friend to support the bike while you test what movement you have. Make marks on the wall or use some other means of measuring what you can do without pain. Check if both knees have the same movement. If they are the same then half the distance that you measured is the crank length you can use. Make sure you understand the idea here before going further. &lt;em&gt;Then&lt;/em&gt; go back to the shop and see what cranks they have that you could use.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The idea is to have an independent idea of what you need before you talk to the LBS guy again. No matter how honestly helpful he is, be prepared to get a second opinion as well.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Web searches show that cranks can be found in many non-standard sizes, such as 130mm. Some people will take longer cranks and cut them down to the size you need. I'm sure you'll be able to get what you need! The first step is to work out just what that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where your LBS could be of great help is working out what gearing you'll need with your short cranks. As you get stronger your needs may change, so keep up a good relationship with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T06:48:14.557" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T06:48:14.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T07:21:33.533" Score="0" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hybrid-style bike with Shimano parts and I'd like to replace the gear cable &quot;adjuster barrel&quot; (?) on the shifter next to my front left brake, as I have mangled it by twisting it with a pair of pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not sure exactly what part I need to buy. This looks similar: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/cycling/parts/gears-drivetrain-cables/shimano-rd-7700-cable-adjuster-bolt-unit#tab3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.halfords.com/cycling/parts/gears-drivetrain-cables/shimano-rd-7700-cable-adjuster-bolt-unit#tab3&lt;/a&gt; ...but it says that it's for the rear derailleur rather than a front shifter, so I'm not sure if it's the right part. If not, could anyone tell me exactly which part I'd need to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18772" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T11:18:22.753" Title="Shimano gear cable adjuster barrel replacement" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29550" CreationDate="2015-03-19T10:36:22.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are same. But before spending money in it, it can be wise to check the threads in the shifter. If pliers used to twist it, the threads could deform, and new barrel will act the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="7999" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T11:18:22.753" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T11:18:22.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29554" CreationDate="2015-03-19T11:04:23.530" Score="0" ViewCount="814" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; at park tool, it looks to be lacking some information, and here are my questions (some of them maybe pretty silly):  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why the bike should be &quot;with the wheels level as the bike would appear on flat ground&quot;?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why in position C I should replace gauge?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I re-bend it with the same tool? How actually I re-bend the hanger?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="18732" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T12:15:04.300" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T08:29:55.773" Title="Unbending Derailleur hanger" Tags="&lt;hanger&gt;&lt;alignment&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T16:26:40.633" Score="0" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a Kilimanjaro bicycle for cheap. One reason it was cheap, I expect, was the gears system. It's only partly functional, and I don't understand why. I would go to the bike shop with it, but they'd charge me five times as much as I've paid for this bike, and I still wouldn't have an idea what to do if this happens again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear gear minimum position (second-to-smallest ring):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/MRLwUG7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I somehow forgot to take a picture of the maximum position, but it's like two rings up. I'd like it to be able to go to all rings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front gear:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/7PwC3ru.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/mvAMHG7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only goes to the lowest and middle ring. I'd like it to go to the highest one too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front gear control:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/7u9Dn0G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/QSpDnUz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear gear control:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/Snx9SXU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/69dKmei.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made a video showing the shifters. Does this help identify what's wrong? Do I really need to replace them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X99cR36BLPc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18775" LastEditorUserId="18775" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T06:28:23.160" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T06:28:23.160" Title="How to fix gears on a Kilimanjaro bike" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29552" CreationDate="2015-03-19T16:27:04.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering your questions about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Derailleur Alignment Gauge&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bike is positioned level as it easier is to reference and reset the horizontal and vertical alignments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wording around &lt;em&gt;Condition C&lt;/em&gt; is a little vague.  If the hanger is bent (as in &lt;em&gt;Condition C&lt;/em&gt;), as you straighten it your original reference position will have shifted, so head back to 9:00 position to reset the gauge, then go back to position 3:00, and check the alignment again. If more horizontal straightening is required you will need to go back to position 9:00 and reset reset gauge after each straightening session, then head back to position 3:00 to check how you are doing on alignment. Repeat until straight or beer calls you away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will use the tool itself to bend the hanger back into position.  You will want to put force on either the horizontal axis or vertical axis depending on how the hanger is misaligned. Keeping the bike level (Q1) makes this easier to do.  Typically, I use the frame for leverage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:27:04.683" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29553" CreationDate="2015-03-19T16:50:58.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to read about derailleur adjustments. The first thing to do is check that the rear derailleur is not &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bent&lt;/a&gt;. If it is, you need to unbend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that has been determined, you can read up on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rear derailleur adjustments&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;front derailleur adjustments&lt;/a&gt;. I'm including cable tension as a derailleur adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other problems may be cable friction (replace the cables) or the shifter pawls not catching (replace the shifters). But start with the derailleurs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:50:58.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29545" CreationDate="2015-03-19T16:50:59.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get just a rim and have the wheel rebuilt with your existing hub.  This depends on the cost of work and the condition of the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:50:59.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29558" CreationDate="2015-03-19T18:10:10.787" Score="2" ViewCount="1827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot of folks complaining about freewheel hubs getting bent axles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a rigid BSO with a solid rear axle that I occasionally pound on local trails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never gotten a bent axle. That said, I only weigh 145 so maybe that's not saying much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, I have a friend who doesn't weigh much more than me (maybe 160) who has gotten TWO bent axles. He never rides off-road, and his bike is nicer than mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has a QR rear axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a legitimate reason to avoid QR's on freewheel hubs? Has anyone bent a solid axle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T18:37:09.173" Title="QR vs solid axle for freewheel hub" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;axle&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29557" CreationDate="2015-03-19T20:21:47.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a 'legitimate' reason to avoid quick releases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like anything in life, there are low and high quality offerings, and there is good and bad luck. Your friend either has a low quality wheel or bad luck. The bar for quality on a BSO is pretty low, so even if his is nicer than yours, it might still not be high quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All my wheels besides the coaster-braked wheels have QR axles. I weigh 200 pounds, beat up my bikes and I've never had one bend.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This collection of bikes includes a tandem. It has QR wheels. If anything is going to put a QR axle to a test of strength, the tandem is going to be it. And it is fine. Many vendors of tandems equip their bikes with QR wheels. They're all fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T20:21:47.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29547" CreationDate="2015-03-19T21:24:04.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad had this exact problem (Just one knee). My first attempt was 150mm cranks. No where near enough, but worth the $30.00 (Cheap kids bike part) as an experiment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I went to crank shortener. He started at equivalent of about 130mm, and is now up to 145. Since then he switched to using an electric bike  - his crank shorteners moved with him to the new bike (the different Q Factor is not a problem for his casual use).  We though about drilling/tapping a longer crank to a shorter one, but decided for his use the benefits are not worth the cost (And are quietly hoping to get him up to the 150's).  The electric bike has funny right hand crank that does not help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More expensive options include pivot cranks and &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.powercranks.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Power Cranks&lt;/a&gt;&quot; and are worth investigating is money is no option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would invest $120 or so for crank shorteners. This will establish what length you need and allow adjustment as your knees improve. Stay on the shorteners till you feel the improvement has stopped, then consider purchasing/fabricating cranks of the correct length. If you invest in short cranks now, you may be buying longer ones later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T21:33:18.170" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T21:33:18.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29553" CreationDate="2015-03-20T08:34:11.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing I tend to start with with derailleurs is (same applies for front and back):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure gear changers are set so that you'd be in the smallest gear (e.g. smallest ring on freewheel / smallest ring on front mech - i.e. least tension on gear cable. It looks like that's the case from your photos - front mech is on 1 and rear mech is on 7.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Undo screw that holds gear cable against derailleur. Your derailleurs are now in their resting positions without any tension on the gear cable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lift up back wheel and pedal a bit to see where the chain comes to rest when there is no tension on gear cable. You'll be able to see now if the chain drops down into the smallest ring, or if it is resting on e.g. the 2nd smallest.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the chain is on the 2nd smallest ring, try using the little adjusting screws on the rear mech - trial and error will tell you which one to use. One of them limits how far towards the smallest ring the mech moves, the other limits how far towards the biggest ring on the freewheel the rear mech moves. Use the one that controls movement towards the smallest freewheel ring, and make sure that the wheels on the rear mech line up with the smallest ring - should be possible assuming nothing is bent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pedal again to make sure the chain slips into the smallest ring.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now move to the front mech and do the same thing - make sure that the chain is running in the smallest chainset ring - you can use the adjusting screws in the same way you did on the rear mech.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got all that lined up, get some pliers and go to the rear mech. Pull with the pliers so that the cable is nice and tight. Tighten the screw / allen bolt to clamp the cable in place. Once done, try using your gear changer to change up through the gears. Hopefully you can get all the way to the biggest ring on the freewheel. Use the other adjusting screw to make sure the rear mech does not pull the chain into the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do the same now on the front mech - hopefully the same logic will apply and you'll be able to get into the biggest chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can take some trial and error, but this approach usually works for me. Undoing the cable to start with lets you use the adjusting screws to line things up before there is any cable tension, and is usually a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13187" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T08:34:11.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T13:20:08.960" Score="9" ViewCount="1609" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the most eco friendly way to clean your bike? I want to use a degreaser and other cleaning solutions that are biodegradable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18778" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:37:29.163" Title="Eco friendly Bike cleaning" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29568" CreationDate="2015-03-20T14:10:43.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most things, you can just wipe the bike down with a wet towel or sponge and it will be about as green as you can get and adequate (well, as green as you get would be to leave it dirty). Some dish soap and a hose (on shower setting, not jet or super soaker or whatever) if its really dirty. Don't use a pressure washer or something since you might get dirt into bearings or crevices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use degreasers, citrus degreaser should be biodegradable depending on what brand you get for the chain. Park Tool among others make a convenient little thing you clamp onto the chain to clean it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One link to look at is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bike-washing-and-cleaning&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool's&lt;/a&gt; guide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T14:10:43.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29568" CreationDate="2015-03-20T19:37:29.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to dish soap and citrus based degreasers there are also alcohol based one like the Finish Line's Speed Bike Degreaser. It does not require water and evaporates after application, thus minimizing your environmental impact. That said I usually the Finish Line product first to remove greasy messes and finish off with soap and water followed by just water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18784" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:37:29.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2015-03-20T20:21:45.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The momentum in tire rotation is so minimal as to be negligible.  To see this put your bike on a stand and turn the pedals with your hand - almost effortlessly you quickly get to 20-40 kph equivalent rate of rotation.  It is not so easy to accelerate on the road because of your body weight mass, and because once over 20-25 kph air drag on your body and bike start to really kick in meaning that you are already using most of your available power just to keep the same speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware of lightweight wheels - a true and straight wheel is important for handling and safety.  I have Shimano C24 wheels for some years, light with 16 bladed spokes on front and 24 on rear, but I was constantly truing them and they were constantly getting wobbly again.  Last month I replaced them with locally handbuilt wheels Velocity A23, round steel spokes 32 front and rear - and the wheelbuilder offered a lifetime guarantee of free truing because he knows it is basically uneccesary.  The result:  improve braking, improved high speed handling, a more pleasant ride over rough roads.  My uphill strava scores all improved dramatically, which I attribute to higher lateral stiffness in the wheels, meaning they don't deform when I apply power (e.g. &gt;300 watts).  Holding the wheels in the hand the new wheels are obviously heavier, but standing on the scale in full kit with bike in hand the difference is not even noticeable - meaning less than the weight of a pee (no not a pea, a liquid pee).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going downhill and and on the flats a slightly heavier bike can be an advantage because of handling stability and because a little added momentum helps to even out the changes in wind speed - a rider gets more tired the more s/he must vary the output power to keep going.  Notice how time trial bikes are heavy compared to general purpose racing bikes, and often have heavy high profile or even heavier disk wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For steep (&gt;7%) climbs your uphill speed for a given output power is mostly exactly proportional to combined rider/kit/bike weight (you can calculate at this URL:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gribble.org/cycling/power_v_speed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gribble.org/cycling/power_v_speed.html&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems illogocial to spend money on lightweight groupset etc. when you have a steel frame.  If you want a lightweight bike suitable for touring / distance you might look for a used Cannondale Synapse w/carbon frame which tend to be cheap (except for the hi-mod carbon frame versions).  The you get the groupset/etc with the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T20:21:45.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="185" CreationDate="2015-03-20T22:33:24.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make everything else lighter if you really like the frame. The first thing I'd replace (if you have the money) are the wheels. If you want more top-end speed, get some aero wheels (Zip 404, Dura-Ace C50, etc) laced to some older hub (Dura-Aces are always nice of course) that would work with your bike. If you want faster acceleration and climbing, get some lightweight climbing wheels (Zip 101, Dura-Ace C24) laced to an older hub. You could then move on to the derailleurs, shifters, headset, handlebars, crankset, etc, but I think the biggest difference you can make are the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17273" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T22:33:24.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29600" CreationDate="2015-03-21T06:22:25.567" Score="4" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bicycle. I ride it everyday because it was my primary vehicle. When I was going to campus or another places, I used it. Currently, the raining season is on my country.  I would like to keep my bicycle healthy, for example case, preventing a bicycle chains from the corrosion. Also, another use cases which can be happened while raining season. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any good suggestion for that cases?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17352" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T12:49:34.847" Title="What are the good ways to maintain the bicycle while raining season?" Tags="&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;&lt;rain&gt;&lt;corrosion&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29575" CreationDate="2015-03-21T08:38:15.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way is not to ride your bike on rainy days at all.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;According to your own account, this isn't possible. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe dry the frame, bottom bracket, hubs, chain, crankset, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible, use an air blower to keep them dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use water-proof parts, like some hubs with a rubber ring to prevent water from getting inside them.&#xA;Also using waterproof grease in hub area is a choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose chain lubricant that contains some wax, this will keep water running off your chain, crankset and cassette instead of staying on them and getting into them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spread a thin film of oil on metal parts that is prone to corrosion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18701" LastEditorUserId="14662" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T12:49:34.847" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T12:49:34.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-21T09:42:36.737" Score="1" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I stumbled upon &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://belovlas.narod.ru/extreme/books/mastering_mtb_skills_2nd_ed.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this gem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; recently. They explain that the most basic skill is the attack position. Here is my understanding of their teaching:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standing and not on the saddle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Center of gravity of the rider directly above BB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Center of gravity can be judged by handlebar interaction - if one is pulling or pushing the handlebars, CoG is not above BB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arms half stretched, bum half way between saddle and highest possible position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torso horizontal (parallel to ground).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have to wonder how can all those be possibly achieved simultaneously. Different seat heights and frame geometries are bound to result in different torso angle, relative to ground (if maintaining half-stretched arms and middle of distance from seat to top). For example, if the handlebars are high and the seat is low, the shoulders will be higher than the butt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, I wander if the &lt;code&gt;heavy feet, light arms&lt;/code&gt; applies to seated riding. Should I &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be pulling or pushing the handlebars, while riding seated, aiming to pedal efficiently and fast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, do the above apply to road bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T12:11:27.223" Title="Attack position" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29581" CreationDate="2015-03-21T11:52:12.540" Score="6" ViewCount="1348" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or how does one fall into the road cyclist prototype. I'm talking mainly technology obssesion, spandex wearing and clipless shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start this thread because since riding in a group, I'm questioning the three. I ride an early nineties light steel bike, with no clipless pedals, and I don't have the maillot or pants. I started riding in a group, a couple 100 km rides, and suffered a lot to stay with them, after the ride they told me that clipless pedals would help me stay in the group when they cruise at fast speed. (I was struggling a lot more in the flat than on the hill parts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I browsed through the pedal/clipless threads here, and came to the conclussion that clipless provides no significant improvement other than keeping the feet on proper place on the pedal. Now, I wear this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8IBkN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;my &amp;quot;riding&amp;quot; shoe&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I have had my feet sliding from the pedals indeed, and foud that the shape of this sole (possibly just one of the slots/carves on the sole, not two) does make my feet grip better to the pedal and does well to avoid sliding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a student so I'm not wealthy, and I rather not buy some pedals and shoes just to check and see no real improvement. But what is more, I use the same bike to commute and to go on longer routes, and I don't see myself going to class or part time job with cycling shoes, or get the platform/cleat pedal combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I also wanted a jersey after those rides, to keep the cereal chocolate bars in the handy pockets, and the pants with cushion, and what is more, I wanted a better, lighter, shifters in brake levers, bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was / am, seriusly considering spending some of my savings in this, that is, in the full equip for a road cyclist, expecting to be able to ride at the other riders pace in an easier way. But I'm afraid that the main reason that I lagged and struggled was that I am just not as fit as them in regards to longer cycling. I live way uphill and daily climb some 6 km in 5-10 % steep, in town, and I usually go on longer routes (30-50 km) some evenings and weekends, but I reckon they are simply more fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, thinking of buying a new road bike, I would be afraid of leaving it on the city street, so that implies keeping two bikes. For the new bike, I feel weird to get a 1500€ bike and equip it with platform pedals, so I should get clipless, and get shoes, and then, I feel like I have to buy also jersey and pants, and then I started thinking that this is a bit like internet explorer in windows, it goes bundled, you must go with cleats and spandex, because everyone else is doing so, so it must be better, but if it was not that significantly better it is a bit weird, at least to me to just wear this, maybe with a couple pockets on the side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuOhN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;linen shorts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and keep the cereal bars / banana in the pockets. And to wear just a tight fit tshirt. Because when riding with the road cyclists, I could not help but feel like in a way I'm telling them &quot;stupids&quot; if I can go with older bike, daily clothes and sneakers, and keep up with them, then why the expensive gear??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were the first to tell me, &quot;don't worry the important thing is the legs&quot;, but after a couple of rides I feel like if I want to get regular, I should get the complete set, which I woulddefinitely do if I had more spare money, but, at the point I just refrain from going with them, until at least I equip my bike with cleats. Then I see they are not that much better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which leads me to peer pressure, and vendor interest in this pressure. I wanted to purchase one of the cycling jerseys they offer in strava for completing a challenge, come on! 140$ ! seriously ridiculous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm sticking to riding alone or with my girlfriend, though I really liked going in a group, a lot faster, getting to know new routes, easier to go farther... it's only that either I get the uniform-proper bike, etc, or I feel very self conscious and uncomfortable for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, I see really weak riders riding awesome stuff, and get self conscious again when easily leaving them behind on a climb. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's me, yes I'm shy, and I don't like to be the center of attention which inevitably you are when you look so different to the rest of the group, if for a minute. But also, to be honest, I am competitive, and love to fill my ego with this underdog turned to be strong things, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I don't know, I don't wwant to be peer pressured into buying expensive stuff that will not really make a big difference, I don't want to be regarded as &quot;the one who thinks he's better than us&quot; by riding my crap bike on a tracksuit and sneakers and keeping up, and whatever, possibly this is a non issue, but the truth is after a while, I didn't really came back to the group, which is a pity. I guess I'd rather go to the psychology exhange, or does this happen more than I imagine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the patience. It's good to be able to say this to strangers.&#xA;The question, mainly, would be, do you feel there is a definite peer pressure around this things? or a definite selling interest from shops? have you ridden with no uniform on uniformed groups, or being in a group you have someone without the standard equipment? should I care less? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T08:38:17.470" Title="Peer pressure in road cycling" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;&lt;pedals-clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-03-25T12:36:29.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29577" CreationDate="2015-03-21T12:11:27.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &quot;attack position&quot; is not what you would call attack in road cycling. What they mean here is the base from which you start the technical section on a mountain bike trail ( MTB technique is generally what the entire book is about). The terminology in this book is sometimes quite bizarre and many of the terms are not usually used in MTB jargon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This position is largely inependeny on bike geometry - you're meant to stand on the pedals so seat height is irrelevant.... as long as the saddle is low enough to let you move forwards and bbackwards freely Also, since the book is about mountain biking they assume you don't use a commuter bike where bars would be way higher than saddle (and way anrrower than in MTB). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;heavy feet, light arms&quot; refers to the above position, so it's about standing on the pedals. Further in this book it's said that weight distribution when seated should be more or less equal between pedals, saddle and handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I've partly answered the last question already, but to make it clear: no there is no point in such a position on a road bike (unless you're filming one of the Road Bike Party videos). In road cycling the attack (proper attack!) position is also out of saddle, but this is the only similarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T12:11:27.223" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29579" CreationDate="2015-03-21T12:27:31.787" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The question, mainly, would be, do you feel there is a definite peer pressure around this things?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is undoubtably fashion in a lot of cycling, but there there is in everything. Peer pressure would depend on the group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;or a definite selling interest from shops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but then, that's why they're there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;have you ridden with no uniform on uniformed groups, or being in a group you have someone without the standard equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been riding with a lot of people with some fairly &lt;em&gt;non-standard&lt;/em&gt; gear. Some of it has raised eyebrows, like the guy starting a mountain bike rase without brake blocks, but on the whole no one cares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's usually more embarrassing for the guy with deep pockets and small legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;should I care less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, no one else does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;99% of people are pretty friendly, the 1% you don't need to care about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. That said, a half decent pair of shorts and a jersey will help you fit in and make you a little more comfy, a double win. Save the shoes for later if you come into some money or decide it's time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PPS. Not the Strava jersey, they're very pricey, my current ones were about $50 and I thought that an extravagance. Spend more on shorts, a good chamois is worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2015-03-21T12:35:27.423" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T12:35:27.423" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-21T15:53:41.140" Score="1" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I weigh around 220 pounds, the weight limit for the bike is 230 pounds, part of my regular ride is a long stretch of compacted gravel, I tend to thrash along being used to riding a mountain bike and the less than a year old Mu Uno has already developed a squeak. Am I going to break it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18793" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T05:56:58.343" Title="Will I break my Dahon Mu Uno?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-21T19:10:54.680" Score="0" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a touring bike with one side-bag on the back frame.&#xA;On average I cycle 60 miles a week.&#xA;How often do I need to buy new wheels?&#xA;As of late I keep buckling both wheels.&#xA;Can anyone please help with my question.&#xA;Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18794" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T19:10:54.680" Title="Wheels keep getting buckled" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29579" CreationDate="2015-03-22T05:33:39.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Peer pressure is often a combination of things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;feeling different to the &quot;norm&quot;. This is really lack of confidence to do your own thing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;well-meaning advice and comments that can reinforce the first point. As Alex said in his answer, 99% of people are friendly. So such advice and comments are well-intentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;being new to a group. Many people have a natural drive to &quot;fit in&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you wear and what you ride is up to you, but there are reasons beyond mere fad, fashion, and peer pressure for the general choices cyclists make. The concept of the modern bicycle has been around for nearly 150 years, so there has been plenty of time for trial, error and refinement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The general consensus is that cycling shoes and &quot;clipless&quot; pedals are more efficient than flat pedals and runners. Cycling shoes have stiff soles, providing efficient transfer of your effort to the pedals. They also support your feet, avoiding overuse injuries such as stress fractures to foot bones. Given the distances you're riding, this is the &lt;strong&gt;first&lt;/strong&gt; thing I recommend, before such an injury occurs. Sometimes such an injury never comes right.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cycling outfits have multiple benefits. Remember that a lot of people who make this gear are cyclists themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safety. Apart from the current fad for black, brightly colored outfits are more easily seen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comfort. Cycling nicks are designed for the purpose. They help keep your major muscles warm, help protect your bottom, and the bib style don't slip down which keeps your back muscles warm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practicality. Jerseys have pockets suitable for carrying just about anything you'd need for an all day ride. Having a dedicated cycling outfit (or more than one) means that you aren't trashing your normal clothes when riding. You can also change out of smelly gear and wash it quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost. Constant wear on a bike quickly destroys ordinary clothes. Spandex / lycra / whatever does wear out, and it can fade after a few years. I actually use several outfits in rotation, and had to sadly say goodbye to one that's been worn every week for ten years, because it had stretched (possibly due to being washed incorrectly). I don't get that much wear from any other garment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mention getting a new bike. Look for and &lt;em&gt;expect&lt;/em&gt; a bundle that includes shoes, clipless pedals, gloves and a cycling outfit, all in that 1500€. The quality of advice and service from bike shops varies, so get recommendations. But also shop around. Yes, they want to sell you stuff, but most local bike shops (LBS) want you to come back later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end it's up to you. Some guys I ride with have the latest carbon frame and wheels, and chug along at the back of the bunch. Others wear the daggiest outfits. Others ride old steel frames, wear woollen jerseys and ride like the wind. The only thing that bothers anyone is if you don't ride in a straight line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing that matters is that you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T08:38:17.470" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T08:38:17.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29589" CreationDate="2015-03-22T09:16:21.370" Score="4" ViewCount="17973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden with flat bars for more than 10 years, both freeride and commuting. Now I'm considering switching to a road bike with a drop bar for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to a shop and tried a couple of such bikes, and the feeling was awful: a very bent neck and lack of control, esp. in changing the grip to brake. My question is: (1) what are the typical problems (or striking novelties) in moving to a drop bar, and (2) what can be done to alleviate them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some problems are highlighted in these useful discussions: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/21889/4526&quot;&gt;neck&lt;/a&gt;, and wrists &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/18004/4526&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/14180/4526&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;. Is may seem that one should better not consider switching from flat to drop without a professional fitting (with an exception of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/22951/4526&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4526" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T22:02:41.280" Title="How difficult is the switch from flat to drop bar?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29587" CreationDate="2015-03-22T13:11:59.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had professional fitting - just adjusted until it felt right.  I am sure a professional fitting would be nice but I just did not want to spend my money on one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A road bike might not be the best bike for you.  In a drop bar consider cyclocoss or light touring.  Some companies have a drop bar &quot;commuter&quot;.  They are going to have bigger tires and a bit more upright position.  If no other bike feels comfortable then stay with you flat bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as get used to it just ride. Brakes and gears are different but clearly you have figured that out.  More hand position.  Most riding is up on the brakes/hoods.  If you get on the bike and go straight down in the drops it will feel low - that is for high speed and into the wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-03-22T13:27:12.597" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T13:27:12.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29587" CreationDate="2015-03-22T14:05:20.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be trial and error but you can get a fit that works. What I did for a starting point is to measure my flat bar bike that I found comfortable. With the bikes sitting on the wheels, I measured the saddle height and the handlebar height. I then measured the length from the saddle to the bar center. With those measurements I set up the drop bar  bike as close as I could using headset spacers and an adjustable stem. After a test ride and a few more adjustments I ordered an non adjustable stem. I ordered one in the closest size to the dimensions the adjustable stem was set at. You could just use the adjustable stem however most are really heavy. Looking at the bike now it doesn't have a &quot;standard fit&quot; appearance. I have 75mm of spacers under the stem and a stem that is 120mm long and about a 34 degree angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T14:05:20.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29579" CreationDate="2015-03-22T17:16:59.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forget the peer pressure and do whatever the hell you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your reluctance to spend money is wise. It's a wisdom that many people lack. But if you &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; gonna spend money, then here are my suggestions, in order of importance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bike shorts. If you ride more than 20 miles at a time, they'll definitely make your ass happier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Indexed shifting system (your bike is from the early 90s, so I assume you don't have one). You'll have to replace most of the drivetrain, so plan the job before you start and figure out if it's worth the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shoes and clip-in pedals. It's not just about keeping your foot in place - the stiff sole makes for more efficient power transfer from your legs to the cranks. If you also plan to ride your bike in regular shoes, I recommend something like Shimano M424 pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T17:16:59.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29575" CreationDate="2015-03-22T17:30:04.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Store your bike in a dry place if possible. This is probably the most important thing - even if you ride every day, your bike spends more time parked than it does on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clean and oil the chain regularly. If it's squeaking or showing rust, you're not doing it often enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have loose bearings anywhere on your bike (hubs, pedals, bottom bracket, or headset) then take them apart and pack with fresh grease at least once a year. Not applicable if you have sealed bearings - you can just ignore those.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T17:30:04.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29616" CreationDate="2015-03-22T18:23:38.887" Score="4" ViewCount="4024" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering replacing my threaded aluminum forks, threaded headset, steel threaded stem and steel handlebars with threadless carbon forks, threadless headset and integrated carbon stem and handlebars; a large reduction in weight on my 700c road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from weight, what performance differences (if anything) should I notice or expect from the 1.0&quot; threaded (guess) / 1 1/8&quot; threadless headset change? Smoother turning? Or had the change in the industry been motivated on weight/production considerations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I miss from the threaded setups is that the stem and forks can be engaged in a much stronger connection, such that it would take way more force to make them move independently. On my threadless setups, I can still force the handlebars to turn independent of the wheel, as the stem bolts strip out before they would provide as much clamping force as a threaded setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T06:16:04.737" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T13:21:54.817" Title="Is threadless a noticeable difference from threaded headset setups?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29579" CreationDate="2015-03-22T19:51:02.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks all for the more elaborate answers, I can't vote up. I see it simpler now. It is the combination of introvertion, wanting to fit in, and the main step to fit in involving a good quantity of money I suppose. So possibly pedals and some clothes would be an intermediate step. My shifters are indexed, though in the frame, not sure the year actually, but from what I collected must be 91 93... Looks like indexed was there earlier than it is thought. My reservation on clipless comes from discussion in this site, tag clipless... Cheers, Gaur&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T19:51:02.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29552" CreationDate="2015-03-23T08:29:55.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To align the derailleur hanger &lt;em&gt;you don't need any special tools&lt;/em&gt;. At least with steel frames, the derailleur hangers can usually be bent without damaging them. Basically you have to do two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the derailleur hanger alignment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bend the thing carefully until it is parallel with the wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For (1) you can use a &lt;em&gt;spare rear wheel with a threaded axle&lt;/em&gt;. The axle threads are the same as the threads in the derailleur eye. Remove the derailleur and screw in the wheel instead. Use a spanner to tighten it a bit, so that the cone sits square against the derailleur hanger. With the now two wheels in place, you can measure the distance between the rims in several places. If the derailleur eye is straight, you should get (approximately) the same distance everywhere. If not, it will vary and you should be able to see in which direction the hanger needs to be bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For step (2), bending the hanger, you can use a &lt;em&gt;large adjustable spanner&lt;/em&gt;. Align the spanner in the direction you want to bend the hanger and tighten it so that it holds the hanger well. Then bend &lt;strong&gt;carefully&lt;/strong&gt;, preferably in the section between eye and dropout (and not at the &quot;U-turn&quot; of the dropout). I usually leave the back wheel in the dropouts and tighten the quick release, in order to give the dropout some support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bend a little, then check the alignment again and repeat if necessary. When done, &lt;em&gt;carefully check dropout and hanger for any cracks&lt;/em&gt;! As said, steel usually survives quite a lot, but you don't want to risk losing your wheel because of a dropout failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T08:29:55.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29575" CreationDate="2015-03-23T08:35:39.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use fenders with good coverage! They will keep most of the dirty spray water off your bike. You'll be surprised how much less oiling your chain needs with proper fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Proper fenders&lt;/em&gt; means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a front fender with a mud flap that reaches within a few centimeters of the road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a rear fender that starts some centimeters below the chain stays, so that water dripping off does not end up on the chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T08:35:39.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29587" CreationDate="2015-03-23T10:31:28.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, I think you would adjust to a drop bar with a little practice. Most of the time you will ride with hands on the top bar anyway (make sure the brakes are positioned so you can still reach them from this position).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience drop bars come into their own when you are going fast and/or into the wind, you will quickly realise that you can go faster - or use less effort for the same speed. That sensation of speed/efficiency is what makes for a great riding experience. It's not just the drop of the bars BTW it's also that they are shorter so that your hands and arms are not stuck out as far and you present less of an obstacle to the wind. If you are not bothered about efficiency or speed then by all means stick with flat bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told by a semi-pro cyclist that once you are going over 20mph an upright pencil in the wind has more slowing effect than 1kg of weight. That is how important aerodynamic drag is on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18732" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T10:31:28.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32253" CreationDate="2015-03-23T15:43:49.873" Score="2" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a Marin Rocky Ridge (2007) that I'd like to give a bit of an overhaul/refurbish as it's been left standing for two years or so. I'm just looking to know where would be common areas that would have degraded over time? Would brake fluid etc. need replacing, as well as bearings needing cleaned/ regreased?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a link to the bike spec (may need to select &quot;Show detailed spec&quot;) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebikelist.co.uk/marin/rocky-ridge-2007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2007 Marin Rocky Ridge Spec&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18815" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T12:21:34.177" Title="Refurbishing mountain bike - left standing for couple of years" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29606" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-23T16:23:32.733" Score="1" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have very little knowledge when it comes to bicycles and how they work. With that being said, I have a Giant Cypress Hybrid. It is a great bike for the most part. I'm looking to get a little more top end speed out of it. When I'm on a paved trail, its simply nkt fast enough for me. Another gear or two would be great. Is it possible to just replace the rear cassette,  or do you have to do something to the front as well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18816" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T17:50:49.890" Title="Giant Cypress Upgrade" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29606" CreationDate="2015-03-23T18:36:32.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on very little knowledge and your comments I suspect you are not even in high gear  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highest / fastest gear is the smallest in back and the largest in front  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt post a picture of what you think the fastest gear is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T18:41:57.950" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T18:41:57.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29606" CreationDate="2015-03-23T18:59:46.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What others are saying is right.  If you have a 48/11 and are only going 20 mph (32 km/h) then you aren't spinning fast enough. You also won't be able to find a cassette with smaller than an 11 tooth cog.  You'll have to get bigger chain rings.  That being said, it might be difficult to spin fast on a hybrid with platform pedals. Personally I find it easier to spin fast when I have clipless pedals. Also, make sure the bike is fit correctly to your body. If your seat isn't high enough and your legs are bent too much, it can be hard to get a high cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T18:59:46.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29594" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:30:59.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Threadless forks aren't a significant upgrade in any way other than weight and simplicity of setup/maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on exactly what the steerer tube is made of and how much is exposed above the headset, they can be stiffer when pulling on the bars in a sprint, but for the other 99.9% of the time there is no difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I'd would never go back. The advantages in weight and maintenance are well worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. You should really double check your measurements, a 1.125 inch threaded headset is a relatively rare item. They were made, but only for a few years and as far as I know only on mountain bikes and tandems. It would be very rare to find one on a road bike of any vintage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T20:35:37.253" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T20:35:37.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17111" CreationDate="2015-03-24T00:13:53.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a car paint sealent (polymer based) to protect the paint for the whole season (it lasts up to 5 months without reapplying). Wax or polish will only last a month before it fades away. I recommend AMMONYC skin but any paint sealent will do the job (menzerna or meguiars have good products aswell&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18820" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T12:27:42.183" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T12:27:42.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29606" CreationDate="2015-03-24T00:26:27.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to you local bike shop. See if they have something (used will do just fine) with a cycling computer on it that has cadence measurement (any cycling computer). Ask to take it for a test ride, and get to where you feel your legs are spinning at about the same rate they normally are on your bike. Then look at the cadence read-out. About 90 RPM is what you're shooting for. If it's telling you that you're not pedaling that fast, downshift (smaller chainring, bigger rear cog), until you're hitting that number. Then, when you can get your legs moving that fast in your 48/11 on your bike, you can start worrying about taller gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18643" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T00:26:27.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29088" CreationDate="2015-03-24T03:02:53.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though you mentioned in a comment that the high and low seemed to be adjusted properly, it still sounds to me like the 'L' limit of the rear derailleur is improperly set and does not allow the upper guide pulley to fully move the chain onto your largest cog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is indeed the case, shift into the largest cog and  adjust the 'L' limit screw (the outermost 3mm adjusting screw) until the center of the upper guide pulley is aligned with the center of the largest cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is the chain gap is not properly set. The chain gap for the XX1 groupset should be between 12 and 16mm and should be set while the chain is shifted onto the largest cog. You adjust this with the single 3mm adjusting screw located by the derailleur mounting point. Make sure the limit screws are properly adjusted before checking or changing this setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain gap is the distance between the top of the teeth on the upper guide pulley and the top of the teeth of the largest cog as shown in the following illustration from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/95-7518-003-000_rev_d_1x11_mtb_rear_derailleurs.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;User Manual for SRAM 1x11 rear derailleurs&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EP7IV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Setting the chain gap on a Sram 1x11 derailleur&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the picture above 15 is High set screw and 14 is Low set screw&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these adjustments do not resolve the issue, bring the bike to the bike shop you purchased it from and have them check it out. My LBS has had several customers (including me) experience issues with the 1x11 cassettes for which the ultimate solution was SRAM sending out replacement cassettes and chains. (Although I think in all of these cases the issue was the chain unexpectedly derailing onto smaller cogs while back pedaling on the largest couple of cogs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastEditorUserId="31413" LastEditDate="2020-06-07T15:33:42.470" LastActivityDate="2020-06-07T15:33:42.470" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29594" CreationDate="2015-03-24T13:21:54.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, you can adjust the height of a threadless headset moving around the position of the spacers. The problem is that most threadless headsets come with very little room (or none at all) to adjust the stem up and down.  The leaves the only way to adjust the height is by purchasing a new stem, which doesn't give you the option of switching mid ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth pointing out that while the connection on a threaded headset may be stronger, the threadless setup is strong enough for most riding conditions. Threadless headsets are used on all kinds of bikes, from road, to mountain, and even downhill.  If it didn't provide a strong enough connection, you wouldn't have manufacturers risking lawsuits with something that is known to be inferior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a threaded headset has a single point of failure that's difficult to inspect.  If you are using the style of quill with an expander (see below) there is a decent chance that over time the stem will break from the pressure of the expansion (I know someone it happened to, twice).  With a wedge style, this not a possibility, but you still have a single point of failure if wedge nut or bolt brakes, or even if it loosens over time. There's always 2 bolts on threadless, so no single point of failure, and it's easier to inspect what's going on to see early signs of wear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem I know of with threaded headsets though is that the stem has a tendency to rust to the steerer, and is sometimes practically impossible to remove. This is preventable with regular maintenance, but there's a lot of bikes out there that don't get as much maintenance as they need, and most non-enthusiasts would probably never think of checking the quill for rust and regreasing a couple times a year.  Most people would probably be afraid to disassemble the headset to ensure things aren't starting to rust, and many people don't like going to the bike shop for things until something actually isn't working because of high prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/js906.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Quill Stem Styles&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T13:21:54.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29579" CreationDate="2015-03-24T13:29:55.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First and formost: If you're out of shape, no amount of equipment will remedy that. If that is the case you can safely ignore all of the below and go work on getting into shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The notion that clipless pedals have no benefit is simply wrong. There is a reason pro riders use clipless pedals to race. Yes, the majority of your pedaling power is achieved in the downstroke but some power is also generated in the upstroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose the ratios are 70% downstroke, 20% upstroke and 5% each on the clean and sweep. Now consider that in (competitive) cycling the difference between front or back of the pack is often a matter of less than 1% in total performance and you can quickly see that loosing 20% on your upstroke plus 5% on your sweep puts you at a great disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to consider clothing: Setting aside your general fitness and aptitude for cycling, aerodynamics are the number one limiting factor for your cycling performance. Let me point you to the venerable Velominati for insight:&#xA;Rule #18 // Know what to wear. Don’t suffer kit confusion.&#xA;No baggy shorts and jerseys while riding the road bike. No lycra when riding the mountain bike (unless racing XC). Skin suits only for cyclocross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By extension, an expensive bike will not make you faster. An aerodynamic bike will make you faster. You don't indicate what you ride now but instead of buying a new bike, have you considered upgrading the one you have now? Alternatively, have you considered buying a used road bike? Road bike components last for ever if well cared for. I ride a 1993 Klein Quantum 2. Last year I finally had to replace the rear derailleur but that is the only replacement I've had to make to date other than routine maintenance (OK, I also swapped out the fork for a carbon one but that was my choice rather than a necessity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, for the question of how many bikes you should own. To answer that question I offer more wisdom from the Velominati: &#xA;Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.&#xA;While the minimum number of bikes one should own is three, the correct number is n+1, where n is the number of bikes currently owned. This equation may also be re-written as s-1, where s is the number of bikes owned that would result in separation from your partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18784" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T13:29:55.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29619" CreationDate="2015-03-24T18:24:03.677" Score="3" ViewCount="912" Body="&lt;p&gt;If anyone has done this before, I would like to know whether a bicycle ride from Delft to Rotterdam is hard (approx 15km).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t know what to expect since the Netherlands is flat, but still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18830" LastEditorUserId="7072" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T20:29:20.527" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T14:48:37.007" Title="From Delft to Rotterdam - Hard?" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29618" CreationDate="2015-03-24T18:32:05.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This obviously depends entirely on your fitness level and your experience on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say that of all typical 15km rides, the ride between Delft and Rotterdam would likely be in the bottom 5% of difficulty, along with most of the rest of the Netherlands. I haven't done that route specifically, but from my time cycling through the Netherlands I can say that your ride is virtually certain to have no hills, cooperative traffic, and well-signed cycle paths. Unless you are grossly out of shape or have a physical condition that makes cycling inherently difficult, this is likely to be one of the easiest 15km rides you could possibly do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T18:32:05.167" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29621" CreationDate="2015-03-24T20:41:22.033" Score="6" ViewCount="3861" Body="&lt;p&gt;However, I just got a fat bike with 4.5in tires. I know that my portable hand pump takes a long time to pump mountain bike tires due to it being optimized for high pressure / low volume.  What type of portable pump should I carry in my toolkit when riding on the fat bike for emergency repairs and adjusting air pressure out on the trails away from the car or home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T22:20:45.200" Title="What kind of portable pump should I carry when riding on a fat bike?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;pump&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;&lt;fatbike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29620" CreationDate="2015-03-24T22:15:36.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have/do carry an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lezyne.com/product-hpumps-hv-alloydrive.php#.VRHf83zF-VM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lezyne Allow Drive pump.&lt;/a&gt;  I have spent a lot of time pumping fat tires in really cold temperatures and although it's not as quick, it's compact and packs well.  That Lezyne floor version doesn't look too bad, but it is still a bit big to pack for my tastes.  It looks like they have a specific &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lezyne.com/product-hpumps-hv-gaugedrivehv.php#.VRHjI3zF-VM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;HV hand pump&lt;/a&gt; out that is designed like their others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend against ANY pump with ANY plastic parts if you ever intend to ride in cold weather.  I have seen far to many pumps (like the Mountain Morph) that have plastic parts get brittle in the cold and snap.  Being able to pump up a tire in two minutes less doesn't mean anything if the pump breaks.  I would only ever recommend pumps for cold weather that have a non-plastic screw on attachment and no plastic structural parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T22:20:45.200" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T22:20:45.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29648" CreationDate="2015-03-25T09:16:53.507" Score="1" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to build a new bicycle (others are gone, stolen :( ). Good thing is, I have two spare wheels of decent quality in my basement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These old wheels took quite a beating though, when I was younger. No truing, many jumps and crazy stuff. I even remember my front wheel popping out of the fork during a jump. The landing was bad for the wheel, trust me. The quick release skewers are bent, and probably scratched (or worse) the inside of the hub when I removed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'd like to reuse these good old wheels (both front and rear). But before that, I want to make sure they're still safe to use. The wheels are old anyway, so I figured I'd take the hubs apart to lubricate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, three questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can I take my (front + rear) hubs apart while it is still attached to the spokes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is it good enough to visually inspect the hub axle, and decide whether it's safe to use based on that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any other safety concern?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T02:10:26.287" Title="Visual inspection of wheel hub" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8628" CreationDate="2015-03-25T10:16:48.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If being inconspicuous is the main thing, then you could try a smartphone in one of those plastic pouches that you find in outdoor shops. You can carry it around your neck, or attach it to rucksack straps or similar, and most observers would assume that's just how you carry your phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various spy camera apps that can be set to take regular pictures or video on a loop. It depends on your phone and the app how easy it is to start the video, but for most purposes it might be enough to start at the beginning of the commute and just record. Downloading/managing the files is easy, and battery life of modern phones is amazing. Quality might not be as good as a dedicated camera, but should be ok for most purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mention commuting, I assume your main aim is to record evidence if something goes wrong, and for that the quality of a mobile phone cam should be enough. Many of the other recommendations are action cams that are meant for creating impressive vids of how you handle a difficult mountain bike trail or something, but they may not be best for everyday traffic situations. For example, I have a GoPro Hero which is great (can start video with one big button), but one limitation is that the video resolution and fps rate is so high that an SD card fills up in one or two hours (and it's bulky). High fps is important for action shots, but for traffic offences you only need a much lower fps and therefore smaller file sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, it's worth experimenting with a smartphone app and carrying pouch as you probably carry a phone anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T10:24:50.620" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T10:24:50.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30082" CreationDate="2015-03-25T10:22:19.350" Score="3" ViewCount="7233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got SPD cleats for my road bike and have watched a number of videos and read articles on how to set them up as best as I can. I seem to have them set where I can comfortably pedal with the ball of my foot, but after about half an hour or so I start feeling some pain in both of my feet, where my pink toe connects to my foot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red circle here indicates where I am feeling the pain: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTOaK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My feet naturally toe out quite a bit, so I set up the cleats accordingly, but is this area hurting because I've set too much toe on the cleat? Or not enough? Or is it something else completely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18835" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T14:49:57.087" Title="Pain on pinky toe joint from cleat setup?" Tags="&lt;cleat&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8030" CreationDate="2015-03-25T10:32:52.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brakeset is Tektro Auriga 160mm front and rear, both of them squeal like a beaten pooch during rainy rides. It is caused by the particles of the pads trying to grip the rotors but because of the wet condition, some of the particles are unable to grip the rotors. Pretty much the same when you rub your wet finger on a stainless steel. It makes a &quot;crieeek&quot; sound and you can feel your finger like rubbing a rugged surface&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18836" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T10:32:52.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29628" CreationDate="2015-03-25T11:34:00.450" Score="0" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;What variables are considered when determining wheel size from a theoratical perspective and how do they affect these variables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that city bikes tend to have smaller wheel sizes, whereas sometimes I see very large mountainbike wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18837" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T12:00:27.160" Title="What variables are considered when determining wheel size and how do they affect these variables?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29627" CreationDate="2015-03-25T12:00:27.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first variable is the size itself. When talking about folding&#xA;city bikes, they have to be as compact as possible so you can take&#xA;them as normal luggage when folded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's also the aspect of weight - smaller wheels are lighter but&#xA;also have lower rotational inertia. This means they are easier to&#xA;accelerate but once they gained speed, they don't hold it for quite&#xA;as long as large wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In mountain bikes the wheel size is a very individual thing. Smaller&#xA;wheels offer better acceleration an better maneuverability (such bike&#xA;is generally shorter and of course requires less force to turn a&#xA;wheel). On the other hand, large wheels give better angle of attack&#xA;meaning it's easier to roll over any terrain obstacles. Also, on a&#xA;larger wheel you can have larger contact patch giving better grip.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's also a question of stiffness, Small wheels, especially in&#xA;cheaper ranges are stiffer because of shorter spokes used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In most disciplines of cycling the wheel diameter is 550-650mm (not&#xA;too precisely), so the differences are not enormous. Smaller wheels&#xA;are used in folding bikes and BMXes - in the latter because of easier&#xA;handling of a sherter, lower bike both on the ground and in the air.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've partly mentioned the changes in bike geometry, but I'd like to&#xA;make it clear - wheel size can affect your position on a bike. In&#xA;particular when really large diameter wheels are used, handlebars&#xA;will be up pretty high and there's little you can do about it with&#xA;manipulating the frame geometry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no single standard of wheel size for any bike types, which shows that manufacturers change their approach and priorities over time. It's also hard to determine the perfect wheel size for each person (talking about MTBs here), because it depends on people's personal preferences, experience and use of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T12:00:27.160" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29630" CreationDate="2015-03-25T15:09:16.227" Score="0" ViewCount="459" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build a new bike from scratch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of that is buying a new frame, and possibly facing/reaming it. That's actually the part I'm scared of the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, the brand I'm targeting, Surly, seems to do that in the factory. But as they state, there may be some paint left where it should not be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since Surly frames are faced prior to painting, it is possible to&#xA;  shave the paint off the head tube and BB shell ends with a carpet&#xA;  knife blade.  This usually results in an acceptable result, saving you&#xA;  money, but we still recommend having it done the proper way to ensure&#xA;  longest life from your components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the &quot;proper way&quot; to remove the extra paint, if the frame is properly reamed/faced already?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I choose not to do it the proper way, which components are going to suffer? I suppose at least the headset and bottom bracket, but could the frame suffer as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastEditorUserId="8322" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T15:42:55.263" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T02:22:05.973" Title="Remove paint from the head tube" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29629" CreationDate="2015-03-25T15:34:20.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proper way to do this is to use a facing tool. Park Tool makes the BTS-1 for BB's and has directions to use it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-tapping-and-facing-bts-bfs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Theres also the Park Tool HTR-1 for head tubes with directions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/headtube-reaming-and-facing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[You may need different tools, but the idea is generally the same. Note that some manufacturers of headsets or what not may void your warranty if you don't do this properly.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T15:34:20.083" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T17:24:28.017" Score="1" ViewCount="3519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought an old bike. However there is one problem with it. The seatpost is stuck and I can't take it up or down ... and it's too high for me that my back hurts. It seems that the old user made it this way and I need to find a way to take it off or replace it somehow. Any ideas please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: do I have any chance with it? I need to note that when I got the bike I didn't find a screw that holds/locks the seatpost ... so I got it exactly as in the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pics for the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6s0fg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7hny.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2G4B.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastEditorUserId="12545" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T17:40:15.813" LastActivityDate="2020-05-03T22:10:35.070" Title="How to remove a stuck seatpost?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T18:40:04.570" Score="-7" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I originally titled this question as &quot;I'm looking for a convenient absolutely fail-safe automatic lock that works all the time&quot;.  But, judging by some rather cold responses, that title seems to be quite an oxymoron for city dwellers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please don't get hung up on the way the question is worded, but rather focus on the problem and on finding solutions.  Please use some imagination.  Try to think of alternatives that will help to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two bicycles have now been stolen from me within the last year.  Both were mountain bikes.  The second was full suspension.  I am interested in getting into touring as well.  So I'm thinking of 27-speed for my next bike.  I also like the full-suspension mountain-bike idea.  But before I get another bike I would &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; to be absolutely sure it cannot be stolen.  Of course, that does not mean I will be entirely and certainly successful in meeting that objective.  But I live in a small town and am also interested in rural, remote, solitary touring in rural areas distant from metropolitan areas.  So professional bike thievery is not a major problem here.  There simply are not enough bikes around to make professional bike thievery worthwhile.  The problem is more about opportunistic crime and the difficulty of always remembering to lock my bike.  It would be ideal if a bike could lock securely and automatically when it is dismounted.  Simple motions to lock bike may be easier to remember and undertake rather than always trying to go through a bothersome rigmarole to lock a bike.  In this regard, I saw a question dealing with having to lock a bike many times a day and the need to make locking a simpler operation.  That question seems to partly address the problem(s) I have in mind.  All kinds of compromising situations can arise unexpectedly when bike riding, and it can be easy to forget to lock a bike under such circumstances.  So techniques are needed to easily avoid leaving a bike unlocked when such compromising situations arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like a very convenient, fail-safe lock that does not depend on my remembering to lock the bike every time I dismount.  If you think such things don't exist or can't be designed or developed, please try to think of &quot;best-practices&quot; alternatives and techniques that might be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking that the ideal lock would lock up the bike automatically when the bike is dismounted and could be unlocked only by key or combination or by my presence within five feet, say by a radio chip (perhaps a small RFID chip or other credit-card-like passive responder) carried by me, say worn on my belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, the lock needs to be &quot;fail-safe&quot; under all conditions.  So it should not lock up when someone is riding it.  And since the radio operation would likely depend on batteries, the lock also needs to be unlockable by key or combination when the bike is about to be mounted so that I am not left stranded if the batteries fail.  It would also help if the radio operation is very low power so that batteries would last and so that the radio operation would be extremely dependable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any such lock or an engineer/manufacturer who would be interested or willing to design, build, and market such a lock at a reasonable price?  Are there any such people who use this bike stack exchange?  If so, could could you please provide an answer?  While a specific lock on the market may perhaps be especially useful, this is really a generic question that includes alternative and potential designs and techniques for solving the problem.  Try to think creatively about alternative ways that this problem might be solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ADDED COMMENTS Thurs, Mar 26, 2015, 5:23 am PST:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is clear now that most answerers are thinking in terms of big-city professional bike thievery.  But that is not the problem I am faced with.  I live in a small desert town, Joshua Tree, CA, although the area has growing signs of ugly, big-city life and all the problems that come with that.  I have lived extensively in several different, crowded, congested metropolitan areas myself, and I know from personal experience the kinds of problems that can arise in such an environment.  And I sympathize with the &quot;hard-hearted&quot; problems that such a life often engenders.  But that is not the problem here.  There simply are not enough bikes around here to make professional bike thievery worthwhile.  So I think the nature of the problem for big cities is very skewed when that scenario is applied to a small-town area.  That does not mean that professional bike thievery won't or does not happen here.  I think the problem here is more of a random, opportunistic nature.  But the general picture seems to be very different here than in big cities.  I am still looking for some creative, imaginative engineering perspective in the answers.  I gather that most answerers are not professional engineers familiar with the challenge of creative, imaginative, scientific design and development processes.  But I appreciate all efforts to help with this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that, for very many big-city people, professional bike thievery is a very old, thoroughly worn-out problem that does not inspire imaginative, new thinking.  It's like &quot;ya, ya, it all started with the Garden of Eden.  So what else is new?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first post on this stack exchange (or any stack exchange for that matter), and I now see that clicking on the &quot;security&quot; tag provides lots of alternative answers, which may be helpful.  I do see there that there are some creative engineering designs and some imaginative engineering behind those designs.  So that provides some hope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might add that, besides relevance for local, small-town life and travel largely for errands and for enjoyable, healthy exercise, I am also interested in solving this (potential) problem for long-distance bike touring which is largely remote and rural in character, that is, remote from metropolitan areas, although I might find some occasional need to visit metropolitan areas; so I definitely do need to be &lt;em&gt;aware&lt;/em&gt; of professional bike thievery hazards if and when I do visit metropolitan areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I definitely think there needs to be a &quot;rural&quot; tag available for use here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18841" LastEditorUserId="18841" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T04:03:12.407" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T04:03:12.407" Title="Convenient bike-security measures for rural, small-town, and remote-touring environments" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;security&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2015-03-26T12:38:53.357" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29625" CreationDate="2015-03-25T18:41:34.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll agree with Daniel's comment, there is some chance your shoes are a bit too narrow.  Most manufacturers seem to think the Italians are the ones to copy for shoe design (think Sidi).  As it turns out, their designs tend to be quite narrow.  Personally, I have a bit wider forefoot and require more room &quot;up front&quot; in my shoes.  I usually purchase Specialized branded shoes from my LBS and had similar issues for sometime until I started only buying the &quot;wide&quot; versions of their sizes.  Since then, I haven't had issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said there are other possibilities as well.  Your stroke could be a bit off and you are pressing out (against the toes) instead of simply spinning in a circle.  It could also be your cleat adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T18:41:34.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29633" CreationDate="2015-03-25T18:51:54.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer will probably garner a lot of downvotes, but I'll say the best lock is no lock at all.  I haven't used a bike lock in years.  I don't ever leave my bikes somewhere that I feel the need to have them locked.  My bikes are secured in my domicile, in a similar situation at work, and anywhere else they don't leave my sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different bike locks out there, all of which have short comings (weight, ease of use, security).  Any lock can be defeated by a determined thief; many in less time than it takes to properly lock your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I risked being let go at my job to get what I considered a secure area to store my bike.  There are numerous non-secure bike racks that I didn't feel were appropriate.  People's cars are easily insured against theft.  Bike's are actually very difficult to insure (I've looked into it).  Once I made that point to my employer, I think they began to understand why an outside rack was not acceptable storage for my uninsurable multi-thousand dollar investment.  I pay rent for a space at work now and consider it well worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T18:51:54.017" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29633" CreationDate="2015-03-25T18:52:44.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/126495570/bitlock-turning-your-smart-phone-into-your-bike-ke&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;locks that can be unlocked with your cell phone&lt;/a&gt;, but none of them lock your bike automatically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure the product you are looking for doesn't exist.  The reason this doesn't exist is because it wouldn't be possible.  You could build a lock that would automatically lock the wheels based on a proximity detector linked to your cell phone. But the bike wouldn't actually be locked to anything. It would be trivially easy for a thief to pickup up the bike and walk away with it, or throw it in the back of a truck and drive away.  They could then break the lock with any number of tools once they had it in their own garage, even it it required destroying the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the best of locks when used properly don't completely guarantee that you bike won't be stolen. Thieves have been known to use portable angle grinders to cut locks which can cut any lock ever made like it's butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest kind of lock you could get would be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dutchbikebits.com/axa-defender-wheel-lock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wheel lock&lt;/a&gt;. It's permanently attached to your frame so that you can't forget it.  It does require that you use the key to lock it, because if it locked and you didn't have your key on you, you would have to walk home.  It is very susceptible to the &quot;pick up and walk away&quot; theft method, and therefore I would not use it on a bike of much value, but it does have the convenience of always being there, and being very easy to deploy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T20:52:13.570" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T20:52:13.570" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T21:09:11.137" Score="0" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought this old bike but realized that its seatpost is stuck and high. When I ride I feel uncomfortable because it's slightly too high for me. Also I realized that it's really difficult to fix the stuck seatpost. Is there a trick that could help me work around this problem and make me feel comfortable when riding the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T16:37:39.707" Title="How to work around a high seatpost?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29637" CreationDate="2015-03-25T21:31:44.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has a thorough article about stuck seat posts. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thick soled shoes might also work, if the saddle isn't that much too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T21:31:44.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29642" CreationDate="2015-03-25T21:32:50.683" Score="12" ViewCount="7797" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do chain wear indicators have an indication for 0.5% wear and one for 0.75% wear? Are both measurements included because there is some personal preference from mechanic to mechanic, or rather are there separate uses for each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find myself asking this because right now I have a chain that measures at least .5% but less than .75% and I want to replace it before it negatively impacts the cassette teeth. For what it's worth, it's an 11 speed chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T22:11:55.993" Title="Replace chain at 0.5% wear, or 0.75% wear?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29633" CreationDate="2015-03-25T21:32:58.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a more practical solution to your problem of forgetting to lock your bike would be a device (or method) to remind you to lock it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try a bluetooth proximity alarm tag. You pair the tag with your phone, then attach the tag to your bike. When the phone gets out of range of the tag an alarm goes off on the phone (range is typically around 10 feet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you park your bike and walk off, your phone will sound an alarm. This will remind you to go back to the bike and lock it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T21:32:58.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29645" CreationDate="2015-03-25T21:38:00.417" Score="17" ViewCount="2388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on purchasing my first nice bike ($500-$1000, nice to me is not a walmart bike) and am cautious due to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dunning Kruger effect&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never had a bike not from walmart before, and while there are buying guides out I still feel uneasy. I have spent hours researching bikes and the parts, but I know there is some knowledge that only comes with time and experience. I just don't know what that experience is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some general questions that I haven't found answered online yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are things on bikes you now consider a gimmick/weighted too heavily in your bike choice? (Brand?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What aspects do you prioritize less? (Type of brakes?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What aspects do you prioritize more? (Mounting holes for addons?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do you regret or surprisingly like about your purchase?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sorry if this is opinion based/not a specific question. With my lack of experience I do not know what questions I need to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1-Year Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a brief update on my thoughts after buying a bike. For those curious it is a 2015 Trek DS 8.3 (Mix between road and off-road)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Biggest mistake: I wanted a bike that could do everything so that I wouldn't end up limiting myself in the long run. While what I bought works rather well as an everyday road bike, I always have the front suspension locked and don't need the disk brakes. It works well enough as a road bike, but in hindsight I should have focused solely on a road bike instead of something that was just good at everything instead of great at what I use it for 99% of the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Biggest plus: The DS 8.3 has a lot of mounting options for fenders and racks. This has proven very valuable as I am now in the position to be able to bike to work and it gives me plenty of options to add racks for my lunch and computer. I value mounting options a lot now as it allows me to highly modify my bike if I want without needing a new bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Biggest surprise: While better bikes perform better in general, they have much smaller tolerances and thus need more detailed care. I needed to learn to do a lot of the maintenance and upkeep again as what I knew was too vague to do it well. This also means that the day to day upkeep is slightly more. This may not be a surprise to many, but it was something I hadn't thought about at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters, Derailers, and Brakes: When I was shopping I was initially overwhelmed by trying to decide which components were better than one another. In the end I don't have strong feelings for any of my components, they all work fine. I have ridden other bikes with different components and while they perform slightly differently, in the end they have never affected my enjoyment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TLDR&lt;/strong&gt; My advice from the experience is get a bike that is really focused on what you will be doing, not what you are considering doing. Find a bike that has mounting holes that will support varying uses down the road. Don't worry about all the details, find one that you like as a whole. Finally learn to take good care of it and be prepared to spend more time maintaining it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18843" LastEditorUserId="18843" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T16:38:01.083" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T16:38:01.083" Title="What do you wish you knew you before you bought your first nice bike?" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;&lt;advice&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-03-27T00:43:32.643" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29639" CreationDate="2015-03-25T22:02:31.490" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its up to personal preference at the end of the day, but a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/chain-checker-cc-2&quot;&gt;general recommendation&lt;/a&gt; is to replace at (or before) the 0.5% point for 11 speed and 0.75% for 10 speed or lower. You can also see if theres something in the chain manual or chain wear gauge's manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The multiple indicators are there because some people will want to change at 0.5%, others at 0.75% and so on. For a more expensive drivetrain, it makes sense to change earlier given the insane costs associated with all the other parts (whereas with a cheap drivetrain, you can run longer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T22:02:31.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29639" CreationDate="2015-03-25T22:05:47.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every new 9 spd chain I have bought came out of the box with 0.5% wear according to the Park CC2 chain checker. I replace my chains when they start to show any wear (i.e. 0.75 %), because chains are cheap and the rest of the drive train is not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to be aware that just because a measuring tool has different measurements, it does not mean the tool has that accuracy or that repeatability of measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every measuring tool takes some practice and skill to get accurate measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the fact of variation in the manufacturing process. We are talking about very small measurements. Given all the potential sources of error, I think&#xA;it's a mistake to focus too much on any specific number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of chains, what you really care about is the difference between new and worn. Whatever tool you are using, measure the chain when it's new and replace it when it starts to show signs of wear. This is why I use the CC2 model, because it's easy to see the difference between new and worn long before it's worn enough to affect the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T22:11:55.993" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T22:11:55.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29641" CreationDate="2015-03-25T22:58:34.003" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prioritize more: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires -- the bike must allow me to use the tires I want to use.  I used to have a road bike that did not allow any tire wider than 25mm.  Any bike that cannot use 35mm tires is useless to me.  Some people are still under the illusion that narrow tires are fast, wide tires are slow; there is a bunch of research that indicates this is not true for tires up to 40mm, and at the relatively low speeds most people ride (&amp;lt;25mph).  Wide tires allow you to ride on all surfaces without worrying about gravel, bumps, railroad tracks, bridge grates etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fenders -- if it's too hard to install decent fenders, I am going to hate riding when it's wet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gearing -- if your highest gear is a bit too low, you're not giving up much. In the rare case (downhill+tailwind) where you could use a 53x11 gear for a few seconds, you'll just go a bit slower.  If your lowest gear is too high, there are some hills you can't climb, and other hills that you can climb only with great difficulty. To me, this suggests that overall lower gearing works better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prioritize less: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight -- if a bike weighs 0.5 pounds less, but is uncomfortable on longer rides, that really limits my enjoyment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pretending to be a racer -- unless you are actually going to use the bike for racing, resist the temptation to pretend you're a racer and need the lightest wheels and the shortest wheelbase.  In practice, this is not useful for most people (heavy riders end up damaging superlight wheels, etc.)  Before you decide that compact cranks are for wussies and get a 53/39 crank, think about how much you're really going to use that 53/11 top gear. How fast would you have to go for that gear to be useful ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Internal cable routing -- I can attach a Revelate &quot;Gas Tank&quot; bag to the top tube, put it on any kind of bike carrier on the car, and easily carry it on my shoulder without cables on the top tube getting in the way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T22:58:34.003" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29641" CreationDate="2015-03-25T23:04:05.553" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key is to know your intended use. Knowing what you don't want also helps. But also a bike has a wide variety of applications, like a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main (non BSO) adult bike types (people are always trying new ideas, or marketing approaches, so this is intended as an overview)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Road (racing) bike. For those who want to ride as fast as possible (for them). The least comfortable and most twitchy if you're not used to it. No mudguards (fenders), and no room to fit them. No luggage capacity. Two chain rings and 10 or 11 speed cluster. &quot;Clipless&quot; pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Road bike. A sturdier, cheaper version of the above, probably with wider tires. A more general purpose bike with more relaxed angles, meaning it's less twitchy. Often used for commuting. May have mudguards (fenders), or room (and lugs) to fit them. No luggage capacity. The current CX fad is in this category (CX fans please write you own answers :-) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Touring bike. Like the road bike but definitely has mudguards (fenders), and lugs to fit panniers and pack racks for luggage capacity. Many have three chain rings. Some use internal gear hubs. Some have flat handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hybrid. A combination of road bike and touring bike, with flat handlebars. Usually two chain rings. Some have disk brakes. Good general purpose bikes. Often used for commuting. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mountain bike. A tough machine intended for riding in tough and rough conditions. Often have three chain rings. Usually have disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dutch (shopping) bike. Has a step through (ladies) frame with flat handlebars that curve back toward the rider, a shopping basket on the front, and a chain guard. Has has mudguards (fenders) and a guard to stop one's skirt being caught in the rear wheel. A very comfortable upright riding position.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more kinds; some people might put CX bikes in their own category, some might insist that fatbikes or 36ers should be in the list. But I digress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes, like any consumer item, lose a lot of value the moment you pay for them and take them home. So when you have tight budget or are not sure what you want / need, buying a used bike is a sensible option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more you use it, the more uses you can find. It's OK to own more than one bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any significant purchase when you're not sure of the technical details, I recommend reading up (as you have done, and this question is part of that). Then shop around, asking every question you can think of, &lt;em&gt;including ones you think you know the answer for&lt;/em&gt;. Ask open questions, where the salesperson has to explain, not &quot;I want to use it for shopping, so I'll need panniers, right?&quot;. This way you can cross-check their answers with their competitors and your own knowledge. When there is a difference, ask more to work out if they just have a different opinion to the last person, if they know &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; than you or the last person, or they are full of bull. I'm looking for a good price, but mainly good service. When I need assistance I want to know where I can get it, which is why I recommend a local bike shop (not online).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this doesn't answer all the details of your question. Each kind of bike has it's intended use, and does &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; pretty well. Each kind has drawbacks when you go beyond it's intended uses. You can get too deep into details, such as tire width, number of gears, type of brakes, frame geometry, blah blah. My advice is to be clear on you want it for, and get a bike that matches that. If you're not clear on the use, then you need a more general purpose bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T23:04:05.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-26T01:09:12.437" Score="0" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got this from a friend hand-me-down style.&#xA;Got some work to do on it to make her roadworthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's been painted, and I can't see a logo or name on it anywhere.&#xA;Steel Metal Frame. That's about all I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DoBaH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0dLyQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18845" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T01:17:37.080" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T03:41:43.073" Title="Trying to figure out the Brand/Make of this bicycle?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29623" CreationDate="2015-03-26T02:10:26.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;can I take my (front + rear) hubs apart while it is still attached to the spokes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, of course you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is it good enough to visually inspect the hub axle, and decide whether it's safe to use based on that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, there's not much else you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; do, so yeah, I'd call it good enough. If there's any doubt, I'd just replace the axles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;any other safety concern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracks in the hub body, especially at the spoke holes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cracks in the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rim so badly out of true that it can't be fixed. Not really a safety thing, but it could make the wheels useless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T02:10:26.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29653" CreationDate="2015-03-26T02:22:04.447" Score="2" ViewCount="5380" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I'm building a new Surly Cross Check, and it needs a 68mm BB (english threaded).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, I plan to use a cheap $15 shimano BB with JIS square tapered interface, nothing special.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to bring my frame to a LBS and ask them to chase the thread? or I can just use a toothbrush and some soap to clean the thread?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Chasing necessary? or is it an optional process to allow the BB fits better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ink splat is because there's a hole for dérailleur cable hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QKuUH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T03:45:50.523" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T07:10:48.863" Title="Do I need to chase a thread before installing a bottom bracket on a new frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29629" CreationDate="2015-03-26T02:22:05.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instructions that you quoted are what we call &quot;covering one's ass&quot;. Don't let them intimidate you into spending more $ than you need to. Just get a razor blade and scrape it off. You'd have to dig into it pretty hard to cause any problems, especially on a steel frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T02:22:05.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29649" CreationDate="2015-03-26T02:32:52.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, usually you don't. That's something that should have been done at the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the threads do need chasing, then you'll have to take it to a shop. The point of chasing is to remove paint over-spray - you can't do that with a toothbrush. A chasing tool probably costs more than a Surly frame, so doing it yourself isn't practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T02:32:52.077" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29647" CreationDate="2015-03-26T03:19:48.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks a lot like an old Free Spirit road. Note the fork crown, the weld quality around the head tube, the attachment of the rear dropouts and the single-piece bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18847" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T03:19:48.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29649" CreationDate="2015-03-26T04:16:15.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't chase when you need to, you'll have a very tough time threading the bottom bracket in, and as a result, it may creak or wear out somewhat faster than it would otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for facing the bottom bracket shell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I would do (and have done) if I were in your position, &lt;strong&gt;only for square taper, cartridge bottom brackets*&lt;/strong&gt;: Since you are using a square taper bottom bracket, your BB will likely have one fixed and one free cup (or whatever its called). Take the free cup, and thread just that into the shell without using any tool besides the driver (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;example&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;), only finger tightening it. If you can thread that all the way in until its outer flange is flush with the shell, then your frame is &quot;good enough&quot; as it is. Unthread the free cup, and install the BB properly and you should be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get the free cup all the way in without using tools, then I would have the threads chased out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this method on my Surly Cross-check frame in 2007, and the threads were good enough then, and I haven't had any bottom bracket troubles whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And cough up the extra cash to get the better bottom bracket, it will last longer, and every time you have to take square taper cranks off, you wear them out much quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Hollowtech and other outboard bearing systems are more sensitive to the threading, and especially the facing of the shell. If using those systems, always have the bottom bracket faced, and at that point you might as well chase out the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T18:32:54.023" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T18:32:54.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30127" CreationDate="2015-03-26T10:48:39.157" Score="6" ViewCount="8467" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seat tube shim adapters are quite expensive, what kind of material do you recommend as a shim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&amp;amp;t=40209&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; some guys talking about home made shim:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;paper tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alloy drink can as a shim (aluminium or steel?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thin and quality paper/cardboard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one would be the best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13731" LastEditorUserId="13731" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T11:10:04.103" LastActivityDate="2021-01-24T00:28:36.550" Title="DIY: what material to use as DIY shim seat post?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29654" CreationDate="2015-03-26T11:52:57.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely alloy drink can or other thin sheet metal as it is not compressible and is not affected by water, oil or grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18848" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T11:52:57.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-26T11:55:12.763" Score="3" ViewCount="7292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike with V-brakes and every time I get a puncture and need to remove the wheel to replace the inner tube, I have to use a hex/Allen key to loosen the brakes, otherwise I can't pull the wheel out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to loosen the brake arms without fiddling with the hex/Allen screw? I'm worried about wearing the screw out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify, quick release isn't good anyway, noodle still won't come out and I still have to loosen the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding a photo of noodle in question, as suggested (I've moved the cover to the right to fully expose the end of the noodle):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4MT5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another photo of noodle with breaks released:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1cxZP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one with breaks engaged (apologies for the blurriness, was a little tricky holding my phone &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; engaging the break):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sphhf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, one with the arms pinched:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KsZ0o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13775" LastEditorUserId="13775" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T09:11:14.410" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T18:35:04.017" Title="Is it possible to remove wheel without loosening the (V) brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="14" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29656" CreationDate="2015-03-26T12:08:05.223" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah. Use the quick release. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VwiDH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you push the brake arms together, you should be able to pull the noodle out of the noodle holder (you may need to wiggle it a bit out). Then the arms will be wide enough to remove the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can de-inflate the tire, remove it and then re-inflate it after re-installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T12:08:05.223" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29656" CreationDate="2015-03-26T12:08:07.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grip the arms together using your hand and you should be able to disengage the noodle from the quick release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T12:08:07.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-26T13:54:11.167" Score="6" ViewCount="4279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the middle of swapping my BB30 cranks from stock FSA Gossamer to a (shorter length) SRAM BB30 &quot;IA&quot; S950.  The S950 has a &quot;crank preload&quot; adjuster on the NDS which the spindle is also attached to.  The instructions are just some brief drawings, and I've had no luck finding good install instructions online.  One question I have is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the heck is &quot;crank preload&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18850" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T03:52:23.813" Title="What is &quot;crank preload&quot;" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29641" CreationDate="2015-03-26T16:25:07.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most important things is to know what &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; like in a bike, no matter what others need. I have a secondhand omafiets which was probably cheap when new, and I have tried riding friends' superbikes. I still prefer mine. I love the hub gear, I use the backpedalling brake a lot, and the upright seating position, anything else gives me back pain. But I only noticed it after I had tried bicycles which did not have these features. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to understand what you like in a bike is to ride others' bikes and note what bugs you on them, or, on the contrary, what feels like a breeze. And this means not just taking a shop's bike for a test around the street. Find a friend with a bike which is either very different from yours, or is very close to your current purchase favorite, or both. Go on a day tour together where you swap the bikes, or swap for a workday and commute on the other bike. This is the way to notice what is really important to you, and choose accordingly. If you get a bicycle with high technical quality but not suited to your riding preferences, you'll regret it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12601" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T16:25:07.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29637" CreationDate="2015-03-26T16:37:39.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a steel frame some people recommend heating up the seat tube (LIGHTLY) to expand the metal and then try and wiggle the post out but that seemed like too much effort to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got a seatpost stuck in a frame I went to an auto garage and put the frame in a vice. Then used their pneumatic air chisel on the seatpost and it came flying out in seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go down that route, it might be an idea to give some money/beers to garage as a thank you for using their kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18587" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T16:37:39.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-26T16:48:22.507" Score="-9" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;No doubt this bike stack exchange is extremely useful for many types of questions and answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think it is also heavily skewed in perspective against many people who are interested in &quot;quality&quot;, casual, rural bike riding and touring remote from metropolitan areas.  I put &quot;quality&quot; in quotes because many people think that means expensive, and that is not what I mean.  Maybe &quot;intelligent&quot; would be a better word in place of &quot;quality&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, metropolitan areas very definitely have their own special problems about bike riding, and, moreover, I would guess that most bike riders are denizens of metropolitan areas.  So it seems very likely that those facts tend strongly to do an awful lot of skewing on this stack exchange away from the above-described casual, rural bike riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to this site, but I have gotten the impression that the highly specialized fanaticism of professional bike riding may also be a factor in the skewing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am wondering if there can be a stack exchange for casual, rural bike riding and remote, perhaps solitary, touring free of the fanaticism of professional bike riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That describes the intent.  Of course, users of each type of stack exchange may find the other type of stack exchange to be useful.  And maybe there are some professional bike riders who don't think that every human interaction has to be a zero-sum game devoid of win-win outcomes.  So I don't mean to denigrate professional bike riders generally or even specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am wondering it is possible to avoid being steamrolled by hard-nosed city slickers and professional bike riders who generally have very different interests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is my impression that voting is likely based on whether a person likes the question or does not like the question, and such things are extremely subjective.  Voting may also be based on what the voter thinks his/her buddies and associates will like or not like and what the current &quot;buzz&quot; is among biking enthusiasts, especially those in metropolitan areas.  So based on sociological network theory about friends and associates in metropolitan areas, this seems to be an extremely strong reason for creating a separate stack exchange for rural, casual bike riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But try telling that to a lion who thinks you are a delicious-looking snack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried &quot;alternate-stack-exchange&quot; &quot;rural&quot; and &quot;casual&quot; for tags, but the system does not like them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18841" LastEditorUserId="18841" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T17:13:14.437" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T17:47:47.870" Title="Can there be a stack exchange for casual, rural bike riding and remote touring free of the fanaticism of professional bike riders?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-07-15T17:49:05.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-26T17:27:33.157" Score="2" ViewCount="4512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a kryptonite key opening u-lock, opening the lock had recently bocome stiff. But now the bike is locked outside and I can't turn the key the whole 180 degrees, only 90 degrees. It won't open. I've tried lubricating it and re aligning the discs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the easiest/ cheapest way of forcing it open? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18851" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T18:33:29.697" Title="Force open a U-lock" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29659" CreationDate="2015-03-26T17:28:40.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crank preload is there to ensure that cranks are not over tightened so that they cause premature failure of the bearings. It allows the cranks to be &quot;finger tightened&quot; prior to the pinch bolts been done up to the right torque. It's a way of ensuring the spacing is correct on the crank axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T17:28:40.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29663" CreationDate="2015-03-26T18:05:34.210" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Angle grinder. You should be able to cut through it in less than a minute. Make sure to wear eye protection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCG1t.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sCG1t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.machinemart.co.uk/images/library/product/huge/06/060518113.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;machinemart.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T18:33:29.697" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T18:33:29.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29663" CreationDate="2015-03-26T18:20:22.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you are, consider having proof of ownership before you go dismantling a u-lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before destroying the u-lock, see if tapping it with a pipe or hammer in various spots while jiggling the key does the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's good and seized up, time to cut through it with an angle grinder. If you don't already have an angle grinder, Ryobi has some very inexpensive models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T18:20:22.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29662" CreationDate="2015-03-26T18:47:45.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to propose a new site then this is not the place to do it&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Propose on &lt;a href=&quot;http://area51.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;http://area51.stackexchange.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But I doubt breaking off a casual or any other subset of bicycles is going to go far   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T18:47:45.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5602" CreationDate="2015-03-26T20:09:27.723" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding a Gates CDC (not Centertrack) belt drive for almost a year now.  Gates claims that tension adjustments are not necessary over the lifetime of the belt drive.  My experience does not support this claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of Gates' claims is that the belt does not stretch enough to warrant tension adjustment after a break-in period, as you would on a brake or shifter cable.  I found this to be true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have noticed that the tension of the belt changes significantly with temperature (and possibly humidity, though I don't have enough data to test that hypothesis).  I have ridden my bike in various weather conditions and temperatures ranging from over 90℉/32°C to under 0℉/-17°C. I use the Gates iPhone app to check my belt's tension.  I have noticed that, if the belt is tensioned properly at about room temperature, then the tension in the belt &lt;em&gt;decreases&lt;/em&gt; below the recommended tension range when the ambient temperature drops below about 20℉/-6°C.  I have noticed problems with the belt drive when tension is too high or too low, including excessive noise, skipping, and misalignment leading to dropping the belt from the sprockets.  Therefore, I found it necessary to retension the belt slightly in the beginning of the winter and again at the end of winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain yet if the weather-related change in tension is caused by frame shrinkage (I suspect this is the case - my frame is aluminium) or by another factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18852" LastEditorUserId="2482" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T11:41:45.380" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T11:41:45.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5380" CreationDate="2015-03-26T20:25:00.247" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding a Gates CDC (not Centertrack) belt drive for almost a year now.  I have ridden my bike in various weather conditions and temperatures ranging from over 90℉ to under 0℉.  I have ridden through a variety of snowy conditions, including a foot-and-half of fresh snow on a few occasions, but more commonly mixed snow/ice/slush conditions.  I have encountered two major problems in winter conditions so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem is changing tension.  I use the Gates iPhone app to check my belt's tension. I have noticed that, if the belt is tensioned properly at about room temperature, then the tension in the belt decreases below the recommended tension range when the ambient temperature drops below about 20℉. I have noticed problems with the belt drive when tension is too high or too low, including excessive noise, skipping, and misalignment leading to dropping the belt from the sprockets. Therefore, I found it necessary to retension the belt slightly in the beginning of the winter and again at the end of winter. I'm not certain yet if the weather-related change in tension is caused by frame shrinkage (I suspect this is the case - my frame is aluminium) or by another factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second problem is getting snow in the drivetrain. Under certain winter weather conditions, the belt will drop from the sprockets.  I've had this happen on several occasions, and it's quite annoying, as there's not much you can do when you're on the road besides remount the belt and pray it doesn't happen again on your ride (spoiler alert: if the belt drops once, the belt &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; get dropped again).  However, this does seem to require the perfect storm of conditions: you need the belt tension to be low (possibly because the temperature is low - see above), and you need very heavy, wet snow that sticks to the components of the drivetrain.  When the snow and cruft starts building up on the sprockets and belt, the liklihood of dropping the belt increases dramatically. The solution to this problem seems to be to increase the tension of the belt, though I found it necessary to take care not to increase the tension too dramatically, as an overtensioned belt can be very noisy and create a lot of resistance in the drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, with winter weather in the mix, I've found that the belt is not the universal, maintenance-free drivetrain that Gates claims it to be, though with a little care, it does require less frequent attention than a chain-based drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18852" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T20:25:00.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29663" CreationDate="2015-03-26T20:58:47.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very location dependant, but police may remove it for you whithout charge, specially if it is locked to public urban furniture. (I know a friend of mine got his bike back this way after losing his keys) Of course you would need that proof of ownership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T20:58:47.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29662" CreationDate="2015-03-26T21:45:39.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gather from your question that your reasons for wanting a new stack exchange are that you don't like the kind of answers and vote dynamics from this site. I've been told already this is not a forum, well, this is not a forum. They want concrete questions that can have concrete answers, questions should not be duplicated or easily answered on google, etc (read the FAQ). A new stack exchange would have the same dynamics. There are a number of questions on meta stackexchange addressing perceived hostility on all the different stack exchanges. For a newcomer this type of site can easily feel hostile (down votes, deletions, unability to answer from lack of reputation...), try to get the best out of it, and don't bother trying to change the spirit, for more warm environments you can try bikeforums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T21:45:39.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29662" CreationDate="2015-03-26T21:51:24.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only generalization that holds for the 16k users here is that we like to give and receive advice about cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people have their specializations, and some always have something to say. It's like any small community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any community you join, it's a good idea to quietly scout around for a while to get a feel for how the community works before criticizing. Most people have to adjust a bit to fit in to any new community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people can't adjust and move on. If that's you then good luck. If you choose to hang about, then I suggest that you just quietly watch how things work for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asking good questions actually takes effort (and I haven't mastered that art yet). Answering is much easier. Every now and then you'll see a question where you think can contribute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time you do, you'll learn more about how the place works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T21:51:24.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29663" CreationDate="2015-03-26T22:28:03.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on which U-lock it is. Something like the Kryptonite Keeper might be hacksaw-able efficiently, but you're going to have to do a lot more work with a hacksaw to take out something like the Fahgettiboutit. Note that you'll need a blade which can cut steel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bolt cutters may also work on some U-locks. And angle grinders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theres also using a locksmith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T22:28:03.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29663" CreationDate="2015-03-26T23:35:46.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try a shot of graphite  or &quot;lock lubricant&quot; in the lock mechanism and jiggle the key for a bit before destroying the lock. It may just be a bit rusty inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18643" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T23:35:46.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29682" CreationDate="2015-03-27T02:30:21.370" Score="4" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it feasible for an experienced single seat cyclist to serve as captain of a tandem bicycle and effectively &quot;pull&quot; the stoker behind as if the said stoker was riding in a trailer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's understood the said stoker &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be required to maintain &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; cadence and balance, but it seems possible that a sufficiently skilled single seat cyclist would &lt;em&gt;theoretically&lt;/em&gt; be able to compensate for significant stoker errors.  Additionally, I know it would help if the &lt;em&gt;captain&lt;/em&gt; had &lt;em&gt;tandem&lt;/em&gt; experience, but some experienced single seat cyclists may not have time to try out a tandem before pairing with an inexperienced stoker.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14056" LastEditorUserId="14056" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T02:38:13.650" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T09:20:21.163" Title="Pull Inexperienced Tandem Stoker?" Tags="&lt;tandems&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29675" CreationDate="2015-03-27T02:49:03.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an experienced cyclist with a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; tandem experience: yes, it is feasible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes some adjusting though. It's worth riding the thing by yourself to a get a feel for it's geometry, gears, brakes and starting and stopping before adding the stoker. Everybody gotta start sometime!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it does depend on having a head for cycling. I have seen fairly experienced cyclists who struggled. Everything gets easier with a more experienced stoker too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add ... It is important to agree on verbal and non-verbal signals, especially for starting and stopping. If my four year old daughter kept pedaling it was &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; hard to stop at traffic lights! (Yes, she was (and is) quite strong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T03:51:31.340" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T03:51:31.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29675" CreationDate="2015-03-27T03:52:48.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an experienced cyclist with a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of tandem experience: you are way over thinking this whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming both of you are adults and not complete klutzes, you'll have it figured out well enough in a few minutes of trial and error. If you're not both adults, you'll still figure out within a few extra minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting to be real slick starting and stopping instantly takes awhile to develop as a team, but just getting going is pretty easy. As andy256 said, the captain can ride around on it for 30 seconds to get a feel for it, then add the stoker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two of your comments to address:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stoker can't just maintain &quot;some&quot; cadence, they have to maintain exactly the same cadence as the captain, unless the tandem is very fancy. Normally, both cranks are always in sync. It will be up to the team to manage it between themselves what the ideal cadence is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stoker should not maintain any balance per se. This is one thing some teams struggle with early on. The stoker should always be sitting 'upright', in line with the plane of the bike. The stoker should not lean to help steer. All steering is to be done by the captain exclusively. Attempts to steer by the stoker leaning can make it difficult for the captain to control the bike and maintain balance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, while the captain is in &lt;em&gt;control&lt;/em&gt;, the stoker is in &lt;strong&gt;command&lt;/strong&gt;. The stoker decides how fast the team goes, where it goes, when it stops for a snack or to take a picture of a puppy, etc. The stoker has no control of the bicycle whatsoever, so by the stoker having control of the trip, will help make everything go much smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tandem.html&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tandem.html&lt;/a&gt; for instructions on how to get started, or don't, it's really not terribly complicated. And have fun, it's a blast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wherever your relationship is going, your tandem will get you there faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T03:52:48.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29679" CreationDate="2015-03-27T04:40:17.957" Score="2" ViewCount="1334" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/APHu9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gash is about 3 inches long. Should I toss the tire or should I keep it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T04:03:02.937" Title="Exposed cord on bike tire - replace?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29678" CreationDate="2015-03-27T05:24:03.833" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this stage, with the rubber delaminating from the case, it could come apart at any time. It's dangerous to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Near the bottom of the picture there are some bare threads. It is at that point the tire should have been replaced and &lt;em&gt;perhaps&lt;/em&gt; only used in an emergency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS I see from the picture that the rim is quite worn. It's not far off needing replacement also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T05:24:03.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29698" CreationDate="2015-03-27T05:30:50.303" Score="2" ViewCount="980" Body="&lt;p&gt;white paint on drywall. &#xA;black bike grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;whoops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what are you tips and tricks for getting it off the wall/paint&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14385" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T15:29:49.830" Title="bike grease got on my wall. best way to get it off?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29675" CreationDate="2015-03-27T09:20:21.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; pull the stoker along. Equally, they &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; push you along! I've tried both of these. However, there are some important points to note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/25881/why-is-a-tandem-harder-to-ride-uphill-than-a-single-rider-bike?rq=1&quot;&gt;Tandems are slower up hills&lt;/a&gt; (or maybe just faster on the flat and downhill). This will be especially noticeable if one of you is not putting much effort in. So it may be worth sticking to flat routes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unless you alter the tandem, both riders have to at least turn the pedals&lt;/strong&gt;, although that alone doesn't mean they both have to put in the same effort. Saying that, if one rider is doing 110rpm, then it will be hard for the other one to relax!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's not very comfortable to sit on a bicycle saddle without pedalling&lt;/strong&gt;. This is probably because extra force on the pedals and the movement of the legs relieves some of the pressure on the saddle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Starting and stopping is the hardest part on a tandem&lt;/strong&gt; and requires communication and cooperation so that no one gets a pedal in the shin or embarassing pratfalls. Practice this somewhere quiet with plenty of space and minimal traffic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Both riders should at least be aware of what is going on and communicate&lt;/strong&gt;. My wife wanted to read a book on the back on the tandem, but found it was too bumpy, but in any case it's not in the spirit of things and it helps to have an involved stoker. It's sufficient for a stoker to remain completely upright and let the captain do the balancing, but if you're going quickly through a corner, the bike feels much better if the stoker leans &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt; into it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remember that it's all about communication and compromise, tandems are a lot of fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T09:20:21.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29680" CreationDate="2015-03-27T09:30:44.510" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Acetone&lt;/a&gt;. It dissolves all kinds of paints, varnishes and stuff.&#xA;For rusty parts and oxidized terminals &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WD-40&lt;/a&gt; is the answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17257" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T09:30:44.510" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29686" CreationDate="2015-03-27T09:57:52.760" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I push the BB inside a crank hole without any tool but I expect a few milimeters gap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Truvativ crank definitely uses JIS interface, but the question is: DOES the gap make any problem? or is it normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;some images:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XMYP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Akba.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T10:33:30.897" Title="A gap in the hole when inserting JIS square BB to a Truvativ Crank" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-27T10:19:13.173" Score="-1" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;enter image description here!&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JyrL9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please help me identify this frame? I have tried searching the net for same lugs design but I can not find anything that is similar to the lugs of this frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18857" LastEditorUserId="3631" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T16:38:46.530" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T18:22:36.320" Title="unknown make model and year" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29684" CreationDate="2015-03-27T10:33:30.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have correctly tightened the crank bolt then this normal. The recommended torque spec is 305-390 in lbs. If the crank axle came all the way to the end you would run the risk of the bolt bottoming out before the crank was seated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T10:33:30.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29694" CreationDate="2015-03-27T11:22:53.483" Score="3" ViewCount="23552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a used mountain bike, and it seems to be slow.  Pedaling seems like very hard work, and at a normal casual pedaling rate, I can only reach 4-5mph. If I pedal like I'm being chased by a lion I can get up to 10-11mph for a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, I can run a 6-minute mile, so I can run faster than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking it's probably the bike, because the chain looks dirty and the wheels make scraping sounds as it moves.  (I don't know if it's scraping against the brakes or something needs oil, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18858" LastEditorUserId="18858" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T15:06:28.510" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T08:45:15.187" Title="How to fix a sluggish bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29687" CreationDate="2015-03-27T11:36:03.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing you can try is to disassemble and grease the bearings with the proper stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do that you have to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1) Disassemble them as unscrewing the cones' contra nut and the cones themselves.&#xA;2) Wipe the old grease with something ( I am doing it with toilet paper )&#xA;3) Wipe every individual ball of the hub.&#xA;4) After everything is clean, put some grease on the hub's ball beds.&#xA;5) Keep doing that till you do the entire circle.&#xA;6) Pick up and place every one of the balls back on, so they can sick into the grease&#xA;7) Put the cap back on.&#xA;8) Screw the cones !! BY HAND !!&#xA;9) Screw the contra-nut back on to hold it in place&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the procedure make sure that your rim is not playing around as you are trying to tilt it relative to the fork. If it does - Unscrew the contra-nut and repeat points 8-9 till you get it right :) Repeat this thin on the both sides of the hub !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17257" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T11:36:03.400" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29687" CreationDate="2015-03-27T11:56:01.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it's a new-to-you secondhand bike, for safety's sake as well as to deal with the sluggishness I recommend you take it to a bike shop for a complete overhaul. I'll bet you'll be astounded at the difference when they're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T11:56:01.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29685" CreationDate="2015-03-27T11:57:26.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.bg/search?q=%D0%A3%D0%BA%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%B9%D0%BD%D0%B0%20%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%BB%D0%B5%D0%BB%D0%BE&amp;amp;biw=1024&amp;amp;bih=485&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=_kQVVba_MYHkUqG3hAg&amp;amp;ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Украина&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. They are quite cheap and also very popular in Bulgaria. My dad had one of those back in the days. I see this has speeds. Shifters are very uncomfortable though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17257" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T11:57:26.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8021" CreationDate="2015-03-27T12:17:47.587" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will totally work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I broke my cassette on one of my bikes, then I replaced it with Shimano Megarange 18-34T.&#xA;My command is 8 speed and the cassette is 7. As I adjusted the tension of the wire it still runs quite nice. Gear 7 and 8 on the command are representing 7 on the cassette. SO YES IT DOES WORK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just read this, and 7 speed and 8 speed are normally compatible anyway as they don't have any difference in spacings. So the only evidence of this working would be using 9,10,11 or 12 speeds in conjunction with an 7,8,9 etc shifter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17257" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-02-28T07:24:57.767" LastActivityDate="2020-02-28T07:24:57.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29696" CreationDate="2015-03-27T14:20:03.370" Score="7" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just built my first wheel following the excellent ebook from Roger Musson.  The build turned out great, but as hard as I tried, I couldn't master the technique to eliminate the spoke twist.  I've definitely ended up with a lot of spokes twisted from tightening, a few spokes twisted from loosening (in the final truing) and a few spokes that are fine (when I got Roger's technique right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the twist can release when I first ride the wheel, but I used Wheelsmith spoke prep (instead of light oil that Roger Musson recommended), so I'm wondering if the spoke prep will keep the spokes twisted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a technique to remove the twist?  I think I read something about adding a piece of tape to see the twist, turning the spoke wrench one way to full twist, the other way to full twist and finally turning to the central neutral point between those extremes.  I'm happy to take the time to do this or any other technique that might be suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7107" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T14:53:48.000" Title="How to remove spoke twist" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29687" CreationDate="2015-03-27T14:22:58.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a minimum lube the chain and see what is scraping.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the brakes just hold the bike up with one hand and spin the tire. &#xA;Visually inspect if the rim is rubbing on the brake. &#xA;Some times you can just adjust the brake and some times the wheel(s) need to be trued.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some times you have the tire rubbing on the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point need to decide if it is worth fixing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can the wheels even be trued?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A decent set of wheels is $200.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good complete overhaul at a bike shop is over $100 and more like $200&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you need new parts can easily get over $400&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Get an idea of how much it will cost before you start spending money  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to spend money then&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  take off the tires and chain&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  put the wheels (without tires) back on&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  leave the brake released&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  do the wheels spin freely&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  does the crank (pedals) spin freely&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  does the headset turn freely  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point if things look okay and you don't want to spend money then repack all (unsealed) bearings.  If you don't own any tools then probably not worth it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need some new parts you will find out.  Add em up and see if it is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap bike in need of a lot of maintenance is typically not a good value. &#xA;You are typically better off spending more money on a bike that does not need much maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T14:22:58.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-27T15:51:44.667" Score="1" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy a Shimano XT rear derailleur, but currently I am using Shimano Alivio M4000 shifter. I would like to know if these two components are compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T16:05:53.987" Title="Shimano XT-Alivio compatibility" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29693" CreationDate="2015-03-27T16:03:00.267" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things I generally do to help eliminate most of the twist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When tightening spokes, get in the habit of slightly overturning and then turning back. (i.e. If I want to tighten a spoke 1/2 turn, I'll do 3/4 and 1/4 back. ) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At regular intervals once the wheel is &quot;close&quot;, take the wheel out of the stand &#xA;and place the wheel vertically on a soft surface like a piece of carpet or wood. &#xA;Lean your full body weight on the on the top of the rim. Turn the wheel slightly and repeat until you've done at least one revolution of the wheel. This simulates the load the wheel will encounter during the first ride. You should hear the same kind of pings. It's important that whatever you put the wheel on is softer than the rim material, you don't want to put any dings or dents in the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of these techniques is perfect, most wheels I've built require a bit of initial tweaking after the first week or so. But they will get you much closer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T16:03:00.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29695" CreationDate="2015-03-27T16:05:53.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Alvio M4000 is a 9 speed shifter,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;as long as your XT derailleur is a 9 speed version it will be fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18587" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T16:05:53.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29680" CreationDate="2015-03-27T16:10:51.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably best to start with something mild and work to more harsh until you find something that works. It's probably also best to test in a non-conspicuous area on the same wall just in case something unexpected happens. You can start with just soap and water, and see how that does.Then try dish soap. If that doesn't work, you could try the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mrclean.ca/en_CA/magic-eraser.do&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;magic eraser&lt;/a&gt; things. They do sell &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00EZGIU0C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;generic ones&lt;/a&gt; which people claim to work (never tried them) which could save money if you need to do this a lot. I think these actually remove a thin layer of paint, so you should probably be careful with these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T16:10:51.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29680" CreationDate="2015-03-27T16:27:26.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd spray the area with a stain remover/detergent something like vanish maybe add a little bicarb of soda for an extra bit of abrasiveness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then use a sander with a medium/fine grit sandpaper. to get the grease off.&#xA;With a bit of luck you will not have to take it all the way down through the coats of paint.&#xA;Then once removed give it a good wipe down&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do go too deep you can always do a little retouching (if you have matching paint)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used this same technique on a painted/plastered internal wall during a house renovation that had some realllllly stubborn mould that even bleach wouldn't remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18587" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T16:27:26.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-27T17:49:39.603" Score="0" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 90s era Cannondale Killer V 900.,  Believe it has the Headshock fork with the shock directly below the headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am converting the bike to an electric commuter (please dont hate me or just dont send me hate mail).  I have a few other bikes - just dont like to get to work sweaty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ebike motor kicks out so much torque the recommend a steel fork.  I am a noob on bike maintenance and its tough to tell much info on the boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have a recommnedation for me.  Based on what I have gathered  I can get a 1.5 to 1 1/8 conversion piece and get a steel fork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone confirm this?  Also not sure on if I get threadless or threaded and if any differences exist in lengths? (i.e. do I need some spacers or something else.)  Someone also mentioned that it might look goofy going from a 1.5 thick headset to a skinny fork - - oh well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anythoughts much appreciated - - as indicated I dont know much so any specific detail or product link is awesome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Love this sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thx&#xA;Tom&#xA;tom_mccarthy@me.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18860" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T18:50:31.310" Title="Changing to rigid fork on C-dale Killer V 900 w 1.5" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29700" CreationDate="2015-03-27T18:42:48.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use a 1 1/8&quot; fork with a 1 1/2&quot; frame. I did it on one of my bikes. You just have to get a special &quot;reducer&quot; headset. It doesn't look goofy at all - you can't even tell unless you look closely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll have to get a threadless fork. Nobody makes reducer headsets for threaded forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most new forks come with an un-cut steering tube - that means it's a few inches longer than most people need, and you have to cut it to the right length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that the crown-to-axle distance is approximately the same as your old fork. If not, it'll change the bike's handling characteristics, maybe drastically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T18:42:48.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-27T18:45:46.813" Score="1" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Schwinn sidewinder 2.6 mountain bike. I'm starting to get into better trails and I want to upgrade my front suspension. It has the standard 1-1/8 steering, but its a threaded shaft. Does this mean I can't upgrade to the new &quot;smooth&quot; style forks that are readily available?  I guess in short can I put any suspension in my bike if i change the front forks and handlebars?  I don't know much about bikes suspension and what can be messed with and what can't.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thank you &#xA;Kyle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18862" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T19:18:45.740" Title="needing new front suspension" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29702" CreationDate="2015-03-27T19:03:07.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, make sure you really have a 1 1/8&quot; fork. Most threaded forks are 1&quot;. Remove the top nut on the headset, and measure the outside of the steering tube with vernier calipers - that's the dimension you're interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is 1 1/8&quot;, then yes, absolutely, you can install a threadless fork. You'll  need a new headset and new stem. You can re-use the old handlebars, just make sure that the stem clamp is the right size for your bars, and not for the newfangled 31.8 mm bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T19:03:07.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29702" CreationDate="2015-03-27T19:18:45.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that the Schwinn sidewinder is a Walmart bike, you're best off getting a new bike. We call these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.southcoastbikes.co.uk/Dont-Buy-a-Cheap-Bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BSO's&lt;/a&gt; or bike shaped objects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time you get a basic suspension fork, you'll be spending more than the bike after installation, whereas you could easily buy a good used entry level front suspension mountain bike (say, a Specialized Hard Rock or Trek 3700 or whatever) for slightly more, which will be way more durable and better quality components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T19:18:45.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29680" CreationDate="2015-03-27T20:15:51.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try GooGone (citrus based) or dish soap. In my experience one of those will get rid of the grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18756" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T20:15:51.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29709" CreationDate="2015-03-27T20:22:43.873" Score="10" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the context of this question, two people are trying to get from point A to point B (and back) where the only viable means of transportation is bicycle (and a tandem bicycle / electric bicycles are not available).  The distance between the two points is 20km (40km round trip).  Preparation time is limited, we could go visit point B next week, but it is unlikely we'll ever find ourselves in this part of the world again.  The bicycles we do have available would be rented, mid-ranged commuter style bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'd both &lt;em&gt;like&lt;/em&gt; to make this trip.  One of us is a daily commuter (15km each way) who is used to longer rides of 40-50km on the weekends, the other rides rarely and has never gone more than 3km at a time.  Even at a slow pace, 40km would be far more than this rider could do comfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tips/techniques (if any) are there that would allow the stronger rider to complete the trip as comfortably as possible?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3162" LastEditorUserId="3162" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T12:08:21.510" LastActivityDate="2020-07-19T10:13:48.260" Title="How Can A Faster Rider Aid A Slower Rider On A Long Ride?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29706" CreationDate="2015-03-27T21:18:43.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How are you helping to help this slower rider? With technique, conditioning, or something else? You could slow down and help them with technique for a ways, then sprint ahead and turn around. When you catch up, turn around and give them more pointers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suggest getting into a bigger group of riders where the novice rider can find more novice rider at their level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18863" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T21:18:43.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29706" CreationDate="2015-03-27T22:10:19.883" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen various tow rope devices based on bungie cords used in multi-event team races[1], but I'd suggest those are even harder to learn than drafting. Having someone pull on the bike unexpectedly can cause all kinds of control problems. It's not something I'd recommend using with a novice. It's generally only used on&#xA;long uphill slogs. A tow rope just gets too complicated at any significant speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drafting isn't all that hard and you don't need to be right on someone's wheel to get a significant benefit. Even one bike length behind gives you a significant benefit and you get some advantage at anything less than 3 bike lengths behind. Of course you have to be riding fast enough to for drafting to matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the best way to help a novice rider enjoy a longer ride is attitude and patience. Dragging someone along may be the best way to win a race, but I don't think it's very enjoyable. If you want someone to enjoy a ride, pick a route and pace that they can manage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]- (i.e. Adventure Racing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventuresportsonline.com/basics.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.adventuresportsonline.com/basics.htm&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T16:32:19.427" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T16:32:19.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29706" CreationDate="2015-03-28T03:22:07.443" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Novices I've ridden with are surprised and pleased that I ride behind them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They set the pace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can watch what they're doing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can ride close (enough to talk) without being too close (i.e. without colliding)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can recommend which gear they change and when&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I keep car traffic off their tail (e.g. by my using arm-signals to the car to say &quot;slow down&quot; or &quot;please overtake&quot;, and by riding closer to the centre line than the bike in front of me does, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T03:22:07.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29687" CreationDate="2015-03-28T03:48:57.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that with a well-running bike you ought to be able to do three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The wheels ought to spin -- life each wheel in turn off the ground and set it spinning with your hand: it ought to spin and spin and spin almost without ever slowing down, almost frictionless&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The tires shouldn't absorb energy -- that means you don't want knobbly tires because that takes energy, to deform the nobbles as you roll on them ... racing tires are slick, and touring tires have some tread/grooves (but not nobbles) ... also you want a kind of tire that expects to be inflated to more than 60 psi (and properly inflate them)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The drive train -- the chain should be lubricated etc and it shouldn't make a hardly any noise ... no scraping or creaking or rubbing, mostly just ticking from the 'freewheel' hub.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T03:48:57.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2015-03-28T06:32:58.933" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 250W pedal-assist diamond frame bike. My wife has a recumbent tadpole trike I've fitted a 300W motor. We are both 78 and have the usual stiff joints, so if the knees play up we can get home under power, just in case people think we are lazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my observations on the upright I have problems with balance especially at low speed. It's hard on the neck, shoulders and not that conformable even though I've fitted a special seat that takes the weight on the sit bones. Works OK but not like sitting in an arm chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the recumbent trike balance is no issue and easy to start on the hills as long as you have the crawler gears that recumbent trikes need (you can't wheel them very well). Best of all is comfort you can ride for miles with very little effort, have a rest when you want without putting your feet down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For going into town though, being able to wheel the DF on the footpaths is a big advantage, so I see a good reason to keep the DF but still prefer the recumbent trike for all other cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost though is what would put many off. The wife's recumbent with the 300W motor cost NZ$4600 and the DF with 250W motor NZ$1800 (new price is NZ$2500 with 300W motor) so a big difference. But we do have solar panels and can charge them for next to nothing when the sun shines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The New Zealand dollar is about half the value of the UK pound so the price looks worse than it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18866" LastEditorDisplayName="user7263" LastEditDate="2018-03-03T02:57:31.953" LastActivityDate="2018-03-03T02:57:31.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29715" CreationDate="2015-03-28T07:50:50.887" Score="1" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding a folding bike in the past. I have never replaced its chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I have bought a second handed road bike for $500. I am afraid of the chain breaking suddenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know I should replace the chain in advance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastEditorUserId="18867" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T17:33:11.720" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T17:33:11.720" Title="How do I know I should replace the chain?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-03-30T13:12:25.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29714" CreationDate="2015-03-28T08:48:40.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common way is to use a &quot;Chain Wear Indicator Gauge&quot; tool. (google for product pages).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have access to (or don't want to buy) one, you can use a ruler: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T08:48:40.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-28T12:50:17.377" Score="4" ViewCount="2836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a 21 gear mountain bike as payment for some work I did for a neighbor which had been in his backyard for about a year. Though it cleaned up very well there is one part I would love to replace: On the back rim, there's a plastic piece separating the seven gear sprocket and the spokes. It's pretty beat up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it hard to replace, and can you tell me how? I'm no bike mechanic, but have gotten my hands dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18870" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-03-29T17:37:09.130" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T07:48:30.303" Title="Is the plastic piece between the seven gear sprocket and the spokes hard to replace, and how?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29716" CreationDate="2015-03-28T13:08:43.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy but you need a special tool for extracting the gears, and there is not a standard one, brands have different, it is a job for a bike shop, I'm afraid, but should be inexpensive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T13:08:43.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-28T13:26:39.707" Score="0" ViewCount="1019" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking to see which one is better suited for me. Mid 50's outta shape and heavy and need the exercise. Will be checking cows and fences. This is mostly flat pasture and hay meadows with lots of wallows from hogs tearing it up.Any help would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18871" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T22:50:39.097" Title="Fat tire vs regular mountain bike in mud" Tags="&lt;fatbike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37308" CreationDate="2015-03-28T13:50:19.723" Score="1" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pumped a new tube to about 80 psi (I missed that on the casing the recommended pressure is 100 psi). On the ride immediatly, I hit a very small kerb harder than I wished and after I noticed that my ride was bumpier than usual (though I couldnt say for sure if it's because of the kerb). Upon visual inspection, I notice that the casing doesn't go perfectly round (between the lowest point and the highest there seems to be maybe a 3-4 mm difference). The inner rim seems round enough but the whole wheel (back wheel) seems a bit wobbly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's not the rim that has issues. How can I check if I need to change the casing or the inner tube? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15877" LastEditorUserId="15877" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T14:27:47.980" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T11:55:30.233" Title="Bumpy ride. Is it the casing or the inner tube?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-28T15:36:11.863" Score="2" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;During club rides I find myself getting dropped by riders with the same weight and power but the main difference is that they are riding road bikes and I am on a cyclo cross bike (with road tyres and wheels). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it my position on the cross bike or is it almost impossible to make a sensible decision with out knowing my co efficient of drag area? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current bike I have is a merida cyclocross 3 with cantilever brakes (pictured). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T07:40:52.603" Title="Does riding a cyclo cross bike carry a large aerodynamic penalty when compared to a road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28612" CreationDate="2015-03-28T15:41:53.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just dripped some oil and pulled it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17064" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T15:41:53.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29718" CreationDate="2015-03-28T15:49:51.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mud is even difficult for experienced riders. And a fat tires is not always better at mud.  If you need to dig down to get to solid ground a more narrow tire can be better.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand is where a fat tire is nice.  But even soft deep sand is going to be a challenge on a fat tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look for a 29&quot; mountain bike that will take up to 2.4&quot; tires. &#xA;And there are are mud tires.  Mud tires does not just get better traction but they shed the mud better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T16:03:08.893" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T16:03:08.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29721" CreationDate="2015-03-28T17:54:42.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a cyclocross your CD (drag coefficient is not much different).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You are the same basic shape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a little taller so you have a bit more more frontal area  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure you are the same weight and power? Would any of them be willing to swap bikes and test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get dropped on rides on my street CX but it is because I am just not as strong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your comment I think you are confusing CD with area&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Drag = CD x Area x Velocity x Velocity   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are getting dropped while drafting as a team (they are not trying to drop you) you cannot blame that on aerodynamics. &#xA;The guy(s) in the front have more more drag than you even if you are sitting a little taller. &#xA;If you are getting dropped you are not helping the team.  Take a shorter turn when you are in front.  Try and line up behind the next tallest rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-03-29T23:23:50.203" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T23:23:50.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29721" CreationDate="2015-03-28T19:32:56.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the same bandwagon, being dropped at high speed flat cruising, though I was looking for different suspects (pedals, clothes...). For aerodynamics I would expect having broad shoulders or narrow, for instance, to have more effect than what road - CX differences can imply. Even wider handlebars would have more significance than frame geometry differences (between road and CX that is)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you say that you have similar power output, it could be performance when approaching or being in a glycogen depletion state. I have marked this as the main reason of my dropping out the bunch, not sure if it can apply to you but think if the riders you go with are more used to long (60 miles and more) rides, and what is your average riding distance, and specially, can you follow them OK the first part of the ride or is it a no no from the beggining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T19:32:56.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29716" CreationDate="2015-03-28T20:09:09.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called the spoke guard and prevents the chain from getting tangled in the spokes if the rear derailleur is improperly adjusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Properly adjust your rear derailleur and you will have no need for the spoke guard and can throw it away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T20:09:09.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29716" CreationDate="2015-03-28T22:17:17.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the guard is &quot;beat up&quot; it seems to have been doing it's job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the derailleur is, or was, out of adjustment. Making sure the derailleur is properly adjusted is the first thing to do. The next thing is to ride the bike for some weeks to see if it &lt;em&gt;stays&lt;/em&gt; adjusted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the derailleur stays adjusted then you could remove the spoke guard rather than replace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have any doubts about it then keep it. If the derailleur gets caught in the spokes then it can be ruined, along with a bunch of spokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answering your direct question is difficult without a photo, because different tools are needed for different bikes. So take it to a shop for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T22:17:17.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-28T22:18:16.337" Score="0" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;About to buy my first road bike. I keep things for a long time, so won't be upgrading the frame in 2 years. I will ride 2-3 time weekly, 15-40 miles each time. I'm deciding among three options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheapest: Diamondback Century 2 for $800. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diamondback.com/bikes-pavement-road-endurance-road-century-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.diamondback.com/bikes-pavement-road-endurance-road-century-2&lt;/a&gt;. To be purchased online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mid-range: Trek 1.5 2013 for $1000. www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2013/archive/trek/2013_1_5_h2_compact/  Ridden and comfy but not real zippy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher end (for me): Cannondale Synapse Tiagra or 105 5 ~1200-1400. Comes with a professional fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Diamondback is tempting, given the 105 components and the price, but it's got some no-name hubs and non-105 brakes. Is that worrisome? Any other thoughts on these options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18873" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T01:34:55.240" Title="1st road bike; wary of no-name parts?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;advice&gt;&lt;diamondback&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-03-30T13:13:14.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4967" CreationDate="2015-03-28T23:09:49.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen a situation where a internal-geared hub is used with a standard rim, and the (large) diameter of the hub results in the spokes approaching the rim at a fairly sharp angle (made worse by this being a 26&quot; bike).  This results in excess fatigue at the nipples and resulting spoke breakage there.  Not sure how to fix this other than to get a new rim with angled spoke holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T23:09:49.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29734" CreationDate="2015-03-29T00:01:26.453" Score="1" ViewCount="2398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed an external bottom bracket (Hollowtech II type) on my steel bike. The manufacturer (Sugino) prescribes a 40-50Nm torque. I own no torque wrench, so I just wrenched it on pretty tight. Later on I came to bright idea to stand on a scale whilst I pull the wrench, and compute from this the exerted torque. Turn's out I've put a bit more than 50Nm on the cups, not sure how much more though. Would it be fine to leave it this way, or should I loosen the cups and redo the installation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, can over-tightening an external bottom bracket do harm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6023" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T02:43:36.167" Title="Over-tightening a BB" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-29T01:28:27.520" Score="1" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own the Shimano sport camera, which per specs, will read speed, cadence and heart rate via ANT+. I am told that the data from the devices is recorded onto a .csv file that is stored on the card with the video. To put the two together, you are supposed to use software from Shimano. I can't find a download link anywhere online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if the above procedure is correct, and when Shimano will be releasing the software?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to buy an ANT+ HRM and cadence/speed sensor but am not going to waste the money if they aren't going to release it this year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Camera Info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/articles/shimano-sport-camera.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/articles/shimano-sport-camera.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18876" LastEditorUserId="10723" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T22:06:22.207" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T01:58:35.423" Title="Shimano Sport Camera ANT+ Software" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;camera&gt;&lt;ant+&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29729" CreationDate="2015-03-29T01:34:55.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first real road bike was around $1300 - so you are on the right track as far as spending. You do have to pony up to get a decent ride and components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a Bianchi, and the dealer is an hour away. I haven't had any issues, but now that I look back I should have bought a bike where I live, so I have dealer support and can get parts/merchandise easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any of the brands you mentioned local to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to pick I'd go with the Trek for your first one. My bike has Tiagra and its been fine. I actually will probably upgrade to 105 when stuff starts wearing out. Having Tiagra gives me something to look forward to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18876" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T01:34:55.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29731" CreationDate="2015-03-29T02:43:36.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think anyone uses a torque wrench for installing the cups. If you did any damage, it would be to the threads of the BB or to the threads on the frame. However, unless you were an ogre when you tightened it down or you cross-threaded it, I doubt you did any damage. I do hope you used grease/anti-seize though, since you may ruin the threads if you didn't. You could also have damaged the spacers for the BB, I suppose, but it'd have to be pretty mangled if it affected the chainline and Q-factor significantly. So, if its this which you're worried about, I'd just leave it. Given that you have a Sugino crank, I'm assuming you probably don't have spacers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're installing the crank, theres a cap you have to put on -- this only requires something like 0.5 Nm. If you overdo this, you'll load the bearings such that they wear down faster. If you've overtightened this, you need to undo it. Same with putting the non-drive side crank arm (which is something like 15 Nm normally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T02:43:36.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29732" CreationDate="2015-03-29T02:48:56.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first result on google is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano-sportcamera.com/us/application.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shimano-sportcamera.com/us/application.php&lt;/a&gt; - if you click the little youtube video, it shows how to integrate Ant+ sensors and the video. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T02:48:56.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29678" CreationDate="2015-03-29T04:03:02.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must replace it. This tire is shot.&#xA;I'm curious as to the brand/model of rims as well as the bike itself.&#xA;Also, what surfaces are you riding on/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T04:03:02.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1504" CreationDate="2015-03-29T04:51:53.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It helps those who have a disability that causes the foot to come off the pedal or keeping it in the safe natural position. I know its not safe for me to ride my mountain bike without it since my stroke last summer.  It is a device created to help those with physical disabilities to be able to ride a bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18877" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T04:51:53.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7005" CreationDate="2015-03-29T07:31:39.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a direct drive hub motor and the latest is a geared hub motor, the geared is much smaller, lighter and faster with better low speed torque and easier on the battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18866" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T07:31:39.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29740" CreationDate="2015-03-29T13:06:58.843" Score="0" ViewCount="5020" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have 9 speed Shimano chain that I need to shorten.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the Shimano pin so I need to go buy one.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Could just reuse the regular pin but I already broke one chain tool trying that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the SRAM Powerlink would be more convenient.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it safe to use the SRAM Powerlink on a Shimano chain?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or is there some other reusable connector (master link) for a Shimano chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T13:43:03.033" Title="Can I use a SRAM Powerlink on a Shimano chain" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-03-30T13:15:52.543" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29739" CreationDate="2015-03-29T13:43:03.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it's a 9-speed power-link, you can. I have chains in all bikes connected this way and find it most convenient method. The one made by SRAM is also the easiest to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T13:43:03.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29721" CreationDate="2015-03-29T14:06:09.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may not have anything to do with aerodynamics, but your gear ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The website for the Merida Cyclocross 3 does not list the specifications, but the Merida 4 does indicate that, like most cyclocross bikes, it comes with a compact crankset, with the largest chainring at 46 teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to stick with the group, but you will need to be spinning faster than you might be comfortable with. The compact cranks make going up hills a bit easier, but at higher speeds you will spin a faster rpm than typical cranks for the same speed, meaning you'll be working harder then the group and may tire out sooner, especially on flat to rolling terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the higher speeds, make sure you have an 11 tooth cog in the rear cassette and that will help (again, specs for the Merida 4 indicate 12-28).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find some more in-depth info googling: &quot;compact cranks vs standard&quot;&#xA;also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6727/why-might-a-compact-drivetrain-be-frowned-upon&quot;&gt;Why might a compact drivetrain be frowned upon?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T14:06:09.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-29T17:26:34.260" Score="1" ViewCount="2757" Body="&lt;p&gt;is it possible to put a bb with hallow tech on this bike can the square tapered BB be replaced with one that i can use my two piece crankset with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18882" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T22:22:23.017" Title="replacing a Trek 4300 bottom bracket with a new one" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29742" CreationDate="2015-03-29T18:14:43.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new bottom bracket will fit as long as it is of the same thread and type. The Trek uses an English thread bearing. Shimano also says that you must use a mountain bottom bracket with a mountain crank. The new crank must be pretty close to the same tooth count as the original. The front derailleur is designed to work with a limited range of ring gears. If you are in the 40-44 tooth range you will be fine with the original derailleur. It may require some adjusting as the chain line most likely will be slightly different. I recently did a similar swap and I had to move around  the bearing spacers to adjust the chain line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T18:14:43.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1504" CreationDate="2015-03-29T18:34:04.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I practice XC, DH, Touring and Urban Commuting types of cycling, and have been using cleated shoes since 2002. By now I recognize several advantages of foot retention systems, even though I haven't used pedal straps. I will share some of the advantages I have found, as I assume they are the same as correctly used straps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For XC on rough terrain and DH, they simply offer a lot of control, prevent injury by avoiding foot slip-off. They also allow for power-surge pedalling when acceleration after a slowing obstacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Touring It helps me to keep the foot on the right spot when I'm tired. It also helps me a lot to have the possibility of pulling the pedals up. Of course I'm tired, but pulling uses a different set of muscles, so at least one minute of pulling-only can relieve some strain on the more demanded muscles. The idea is to alternate one minute of pulling only with 10-15 minutes of circular pedalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is less benefit for urban commuting, but for parts of the city where I need to stop repeatedly, having the cleats lets me place the pedal right at the beginning of the down stroke so I'm ready for the next sprint in just one no-need-to-think movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time of writing this answer, I have recently moved to a different country and could't bring my bike. I bought one locally but it still lacks the necessary customization, and &lt;strong&gt;I miss my cleats a lot!&lt;/strong&gt;. I use the bike for commuting and road-ish training. For commuting I miss the thing I mentioned in the previous paragraph. For training what happens is that I'm used to pedal in a full circle, pulling towards front in the upper part of the circle and pushing rearwards at the bottom. Without retention, when pushing forward my feet tend to roll the pedal and fall towards the front of it. (Pulling rearwards is not problematic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An alternative to straps or cleats&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine was not fond of cleats, but he was also afraid of complete pedal strap setup, so he got a set of straps that came with plastic toe clip and shortened it by cutting and re-joining with bolts and nuts, and removed the part of the clip where the straps are bucled so the left only a rather small hook that retained the toes and kept his feet ball-over-axle. (He did't used the straps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He implemented this system on XC trails on a Trek VRX, and I could say it was very effective. The feet where easy to remove from the pedals, almost any kind of shoe could be used, It didn't add much wheigt. It surely helped to push forward on the upper part of the cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a while getting re-accustomed to my platform pedals, my commuting has become more fluent. My feet has learnt a weird to describe motion that allows me to move the pedal upward to have it ready to start the next sprint. However, I still roll the pedal over when training and trying to do an outburst... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T18:52:40.197" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T18:52:40.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29742" CreationDate="2015-03-29T18:37:01.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most comprehensive guide on bottom brackets online I know of is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/complete-guide-to-bottom-brackets-36660/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can replace the square taper bottom bracket with a Hollowtech II bottom bracket and use a compatible crankset with that bottom bracket. The particular crank you choose should be such that your derailleurs are able to handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T18:37:01.890" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-29T20:02:57.633" Score="1" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been 3 months since my bike accident, I've had at least 10 critical accidents. Sometimes I don't even know how I am alive. Recently, I had a bike crash when going down the hill which broke of 2 of my 2 front adult tooth. When I fell, my face scraped against the rough terrain, i was unconscious after accident, I had to undergo major surgery on the bottom half my face, My lips had a hole straight through it (enough for a thick pen to be put). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My face has recovered but every time I walk down the hill (everyday), I think of everything that happened that day. The worst thing is the amount of blood from my face on the floor hitting my memory again and again . It shakes me out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My parents are telling me not to ride again ( I'm 19) but whats the fun in that. I'm trying to build the confidence but its sooo hard.  Also bike became &quot;un- ridable&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips? What bike next? had mountain bikes before, thinking of road bike but doesnt seem like a great idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18885" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T22:30:50.010" Title="Recovering COnfidence after bike fall" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-03-30T13:14:44.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-29T20:11:34.930" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bike I am taking back from a single speed (SS) to  multi speed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(like ss - bought another ss)      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used 9 speed SRAM 7 that I got cheap  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am just going to stay single in the front&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is a Race Face 34 (ss designed ring)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is chain line&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In first it will jump off the front chain ring to the inside&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It does fine in second gear   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there is one spacer on font crank right&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are two on the left&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It was two on the right and I flopped that - got me 2nd gear&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All three on the left did not seem like a good ideal - left would barely get some threads  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tried putting a spacer on the inside of the cassette but there is absolutely no room&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can barely get the cassette on with no spacer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of a chain keeper are there any ideas?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not opposed to a chain keeper but I want to also fix the chain line.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture does show the problem very well&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In 3rd (from smallest) the chain line is straight where on a 9 speed that should be 5th&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HBsD4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain line - picture does show the problem very well&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-03-29T22:25:44.467" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T22:25:44.467" Title="Chain Line - Front Coming Off" Tags="&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29746" CreationDate="2015-03-29T20:33:56.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a doctor, but its sound like you might be suffering Post Traumatic Stress, and should seek professional help to rule it out or get treatment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be concerned about the 10 critical accidents (I read critical that as hospital/doctors visits and time off school/work, not a mere &quot;off&quot; ). You are likely riding beyond you limits, and need to learn to ride safer - (rein in the testosterone). Accidents happen, but 10 before the age of 20 is to high.  Its a numbers game, and with that many, one day you will not ride another day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you ever had, and are still getting coaching? This would be my first step. You need to learn why you are pranging and getting hurt, and stop the &quot;getting hurt&quot; bit. Prangs are a part of pushing things when MTBing, getting hurt regularly is not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, if you cannot rein it in, switching codes (I presume you are down-hilling/freestyling with those stats) to XC, Cyclocross or Road may be wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And do listen to you parents. They don't want you to stop riding, they want you to stop getting hurt. They dread having to arrange a funeral or  remodel the house to suit a paraplegic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T20:33:56.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29746" CreationDate="2015-03-29T22:30:50.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also like speed and racing, but after some close calls (nowhere close to yours) I decided to push my limits going UPHILL, go faster in that 17% climb where 10 mph is the speed of light. And outside of bicycles, there are infinite challenges, running a mile under 5 minutes, learning to swim butterfly, or in strength training, going for the gimnastic bodyweight type, planches, handstand, rings and iron cross, you name it... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T22:30:50.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35596" CreationDate="2015-03-29T23:12:20.127" Score="1" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a kurt Kinetic trainer. I find that it's sometimes hard to remove the bike from the trainer, as the knobs are really hard to turn. I thought about putting grease on the threads which clamp on the skewer. Is this a good idea or not? Am I likely overtightening the tension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T14:07:24.373" Title="Kurt Kinetic Trainer hard to release, should I grease?" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-30T00:38:57.190" Score="4" ViewCount="704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a college student, in Air Force ROTC, and I bike for 1.5-3.5 hours a day.  My cardio and core strength are great, but I haven't found the motivation to build my upper body.  I'm a skinny build, so it will take some work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how will increased upper-body strength affect cycling, primarily all mountain and freeride type riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of HOW more upper body strength affects riding, which upper-body muscles will make the biggest difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4446" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T22:55:12.213" Title="How does increased upper-body strength affect riding, and which muscles make the biggest difference?" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16694" CreationDate="2015-03-30T03:05:17.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last post is correct about two meanings for compact: sloping top tube as one meaning and a compact crank (smaller chainrings) as a second meaning. A third meaning also exists - or used to exist: a bike built around smaller 650C wheels.&#xA;Cannondale used to market their 650C-wheeled road bikes as compact frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18891" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T03:05:17.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="289" CreationDate="2015-03-30T13:52:51.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old thread.. But here's how I fixed it on my bike...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cut an old inner tube into strips that wrap around the rails. Wrap them around the rails and tighten down. It should last virtually forever this way and won't damage the rails like sandpaper will. It might also slightly lower vibrations in your seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18895" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T13:52:51.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29753" CreationDate="2015-03-30T16:38:37.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For AM and FR (All Mountain and FreeRide) style riding, a strong upper torso is a huge improvement.  Like your lower body, you want a lot of it to be endurance as well as strength.  Keeping the front end straight and using your arms like shock absorbers as much as your legs will eventually take it's toll.  I have been on many a mountain bike ride in the spring after hours of snow riding in the winter (much closer to road riding) and had arms that were totally shot after only an hour or so while my legs were still quite fresh.  My personal feeling is that my shoulders and arms (uppers and forearms) seemed to be suffering the worst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the main overlooked advantages of a strong upper body is being able to pump (like a pump track) while mountain riding to maintain speed.  I've seen strong BMX kids roll multiple laps around a pump track without pedaling at all, while a competitive road guy barely made a lap before his arms gave out.  Much of that can be translated to trail riding where you can use your upper body to extend your legs.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T02:33:54.453" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T02:33:54.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29656" CreationDate="2015-03-30T17:09:13.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A properly tuned V-Brake system, assembled with proper, compatible components should let you disengage the quick release by just pressing the brake arms together with one hand and wiggling the noodle out. But if it is really necesary to have the cable so tight for the brakes to work, there may be some mismatch in the components or simply bad design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some tips that I have employed when using less-than-optimal v-brake sets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Calibrate the system to need a fair amount of barrel adjuster deployed so I can give the cable more slack, thus loosening the cable bolt is avoided. I just have to re-adjust the barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove and install the wheel with the tire deflated and squish it with my fingers to allow then to pass between the pads. (Difficult if the tire is too wide and thick). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more temporary solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brake arms should be (nearly) parallel both in rest position and when applied. Most Brake pads have some moveable spacers (washers) to allow them to protrude more or less towards the rim. These spacers can be installed in the pad side or in the nut side of the supporting bolt. (The spacers I'm referring to are flat on both sides, they can be added, removed, combined, etc. to suit application).&#xA;Someframe/rim combinations make the brake arms be in a divergent or convergent angle. This is not the angle where the v-brake provides optimum leverage and also affects how much cable travel is needed to actuate the brakes and can lead to the problem described.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change the noodle: Use one that has a shorter tip, Such that it will require less cable slack to disengage the quick release. A noodle is a very basic part, so even a generic will do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most likely the noodle tip is solid aluminium, but a soft alloy, so it can be shortened with a file or a fine grinding stone. This should be made only as last resort and in removing as little material as possible as a too short noodle tip may get disengaged spontaneously on shaky trails.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T17:56:30.903" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T17:56:30.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29656" CreationDate="2015-03-30T19:42:18.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A shimano noodle can help you. It have a &quot;shortcut&quot; to get it out of the holder.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m9Ip2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T19:42:18.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29732" CreationDate="2015-03-30T19:51:53.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no video editing software from Shimano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CSV is present, you should see it if you paired your sensors in the mobile app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used DashWare with success with my Shimano action camera, others have reported Garmin VIRB edit software works but I have not tried. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T19:51:53.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29656" CreationDate="2015-03-30T20:04:10.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your fender/brake setup I think you might benefit from this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/travel_agents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/travel_agents&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The barrel adjuster (on the silver model) on the top could be tuned to do this with out tools. So that instead of needing a 5mm to release the tension on the cable you could screw in the adjuster and bam, instant slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a thought...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10683" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T20:04:10.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-30T22:57:40.600" Score="4" ViewCount="2440" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mid-1990s Specialized Rockhopper. I've trashed the flat bars that were on it previously and I want to install drop bars, but to make that comfortable for me I'll want a shorter and higher stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I need to purchase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A short riser stem that will fit the mountain bike's nonthreaded headset correctly &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A set of drop handlebars that will fit the stem's clamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I am lost in measurement purgatory. I've measured the diameter of the tube to which the stem will clamp (with a measuring tape): outside is 28mm and inside is ~25mm. Ok, great! Let's go check out some stems...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2bPyx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...uh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the last measurement (80/90/100/110 mm etc) is probably the length of the stem, and the degree is the amount of its rise. What on earth are all of the other numbers? What types of stems usually fit this kind of bike? Are there drop handlebars that usually fit this kind of stem, or do those tend to be a different diameter (because they usually go on road bikes)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What on earth are the measurements I need to be shopping with? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2099" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T10:20:04.057" Title="Replacing mountain bike bars &amp; stem with drop bars" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29767" CreationDate="2015-03-30T23:41:13.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 and 1/8&quot; is referring to the diameter steerer tube that the stem is designed to fit. 1-1/8&quot; is roughly 28.5 mm, very close to the steerer tube you measured, that seems to check out, though try obtaining a steerer tube measurement in inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25.4, 26, 31.8 are your options for handlebar diameter, so hopefully you can match a set of handlebars you like to the stem, 31.8 is a very common handlebar clamp diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T23:41:13.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29767" CreationDate="2015-03-30T23:47:45.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are four measurements you need to be concerned with. The two most critical are the &lt;strong&gt;fork steerer diameter&lt;/strong&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;bar clamp diameter&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork steerer diameter is normally referred to as 1&quot;, 1-1/8&quot;, or in some cases 1-1/2&quot;. The bar clamp diameter can be 1&quot;/25.4mm (typically MTB), 26mm (typically road), 1-1/8&quot;/31.8mm (commonly called oversized or OS). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other dimensions are the length of the stem (normally the distance between center of steerer clamp and the center of the bar clamp) and the angle, which is usually stated as degrees from perpendicular. Most stems can be mounted pointed up or down but check the installation sheet first. If two stems are 120mm long but one is +7 degrees and the other is +34 degrees, the 34 degree stem will make the bars feel higher and closer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="2099" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T23:51:39.877" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T23:51:39.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-31T01:56:56.373" Score="0" ViewCount="6120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to road bikes, but have been building mountain bikes for many years. I purchased a cheap road bike (at BSO price level) which I am upgrading for fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to upgrade the brakes to something quality, as the brakes it came with barely slow me down. It has some side pull, single pivot generic brakes on it, and I'm wondering if I can upgrade to side pull dual pivot name brand brakes (Shimano 105/Ultegra or similar) without any other changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Q8Pm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano 105 Brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically; are there things to check for that would make some side-pull cantilever road brakes non-compatible with any others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T20:18:34.447" Title="Are all side-pull road bicycle brakes compatible?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29771" CreationDate="2015-03-31T02:12:15.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, 105/Ultegra are pretty high to put on a BSO or BSO priced thing (and the brakes will cost more than the BSO). I'd probably go with 20 dollar Tektros. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, they are all short-pull brakes so you should be fine with all of them. Shimano has some New Super SLR cable pull, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20295/use-of-shimano-long-reach-calipers-with-new-super-slr-brake-levers-shifters&quot;&gt;which you can pair with standard short pull brake levers&lt;/a&gt;, but Shimano wants you to buy new levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that the lever quality may also be low so you may just want to get new levers anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T02:12:15.720" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29774" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-31T03:09:39.497" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T03:09:39.497" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T03:09:39.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29775" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-31T03:09:39.497" Score="0" Body="ANT+ is the wireless technology that allows your monitoring devices to talk to each other. Leading brands design ANT+ into top products to ensure that you get the data you want -  when and where you want it. Fundamentally, ANT+ gives you the simplest, most expandable and most reliable user experience possible.  - via ANT+ homepage." OwnerUserId="10723" LastEditorUserId="10723" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T12:36:25.323" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T12:36:25.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-31T06:41:36.753" Score="1" ViewCount="1673" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the etymology of the term 'spoke nipple'? The wiki page on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spoke_nipple&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spoke Nipple&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://lmgtfy.com/?q=why+are+spoke+nipples+called+nipples%3F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;even google&lt;/a&gt; doesn't have the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other threaded mechanical screws that are more like 'nipples'? Or did the end of spoked wheels at one point resemble nipples (say, for wooden wheels)? Why are they called 'nipples'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2020-02-22T21:22:34.233" Title="Why are spoke nipples called nipples?" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;nipples&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-31T07:01:57.937" Score="0" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a dynacraft next mountain ridge 26&quot; bike &amp;amp; it already has a front disc brake but would I be able to add a disc brake to my rear wheel which previously had a v brake on it that I ripped off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18899" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T10:17:53.650" Title="Rear disc brake question" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29777" CreationDate="2015-03-31T10:17:53.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add a rear disc brake you must have a frame with a disc mount. You will also need a rear wheel that has a disc compatible hub. Unless you find a really good deal on something used you will spend more than the bike is worth. If you feel the rear V brakes were insufficient, your money would be better spent getting quality shoes for the rear. Some riders claim good quality V shoes work as well as low end discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T10:17:53.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29771" CreationDate="2015-03-31T11:29:15.247" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to look out for is the size of the drop from the bolt securing the brake to the frame, and the brake blocks, to ensure the new brakes will fit in such a way that the blocks line up with the rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably if you have a newish bike, then any new brakes you buy will be of the same dimension as new brakes. But it's worth making sure they'll fit - more here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html#reach&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html#reach&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an old steel frame and had to get some long-reach calipers as my spares were all short-reach and the blocks would have clamped on the tyre, not the rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13187" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T11:29:15.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2015-03-31T17:22:18.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is something that might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How To Fix A Jammed Kryptonite U Lock &#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/lvZZZK9DV20?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18908" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T17:22:18.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29771" CreationDate="2015-03-31T20:18:34.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;  about installing and adjusting caliper brakes. As others mentioned, look out for the reach.  Also, pay attention to whether you need recessed or traditional nutted mounts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T20:18:34.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29776" CreationDate="2015-04-01T04:15:30.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In plumbing and piping, a nipple is a fitting, consisting of a short piece of pipe, usually provided with a male pipe thread at each end, for connecting two other fittings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;- &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nipple_%28plumbing%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nipple_%28plumbing%29&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from the wikipedia entry on the plumbing and piping context of the word Nipple as suggested by Daniel R. Hicks' comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone elaborate on the etymology of this, or why this term for short pieces of pipe was used for spoke ends (perhaps proper piping nipples were used in the past)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T04:15:30.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29788" CreationDate="2015-04-01T09:58:25.307" Score="0" ViewCount="1512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a second hand city bike.&#xA;After a 2 weeks I got a flat tire. On closer inspection it looks like this is due to the spoke. The rim tape is fine though. It seems that this particular spoke was changed by the previous owner and its end is more prominent than the others. Can this be the reason? Can I safely cut the excess? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the spoke I think caused the puncture (although the rim tap seems fine.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/udnPk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spoke that caused puncture&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the look of the other spokes.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jBK8L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;normal spoke&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6150" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T18:00:37.053" Title="Spoke puncturing my tube, can I cut it?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29787" CreationDate="2015-04-01T13:52:45.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd cut it without a special tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fully unthread the nipple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove spoke from the rim (no need to remove it from hub)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fully thread the nipple as far as it can go&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cut 5mm of spoke thread with a regular cutting plier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fully unthread the nipple. mushed threads (from the cheap pliers) will be fixed that way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;insert spoke into rim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;thread nipple as much as necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simply remove spoke from rim until you get a shorter one. missing 1 spoke doesn't cause any problems&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;partially unthread spoke and bend it in the middle with pliers until you get a shorter one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leave spoke as is and place a rubber square from an old tyre between spoke and rim tape to prevent any further punctures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T13:52:45.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29706" CreationDate="2015-04-01T16:39:27.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very obvious way for a faster rider (or one with more stamina) would be to let the slower rider draft. It doesn't need to be tire-touchingly close, just enough for the follower to feel less wind. I think this would allow you to reach an average speed somewhere between the two riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a specific instance. The ride is long enough that you could practice with having the weaker rider draft for the first couple of miles. The key would be warning them about touching tires and to generally stay alert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18756" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T16:39:27.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29706" CreationDate="2015-04-01T17:59:59.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get the slower cyclist a better bike and the faster cyclists a bike that is going to slow him/her down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there are winds to consider, have the stronger cyclist take head and create a wind break, let the slower cyclist set the speed which can be done by cycling ahead or by the stronger cyclist paying a lot of attention on the companion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take breaks much more often than the stronger cyclist would do alone, and walk around when off the bike. Make sure you have good locks with the bikes so you can leave them behind when walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really need to add power, if you can cycle side by side, the slower cyclist can hold onto the shoulder/arm of the stronger cyclist and be pulled forward. Pushing by the stronger cyclist is possible as well but harder for both of you unless you are used to it. Whether this is possible at all depends on the laws and the bikes. I would do it without doubt on cycle tracks that are wide enough (like in the Netherlands) but not on a main road (in most of the world.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not race ahead and run around as the slower cyclist would feel pretty awful about not being able to keep up, if it is just the two of you best stay within talking, or at least shouting, distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been cycling, including tours, ever since I was a child, as young as 10 years old, and have been slower as well as faster cyclist on different occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T17:59:59.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29656" CreationDate="2015-04-01T18:12:34.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternative to the other suggestions, repair tube while the wheel is in place, with the break and all.&#xA;You take one side of the tire off the wheel, pull the tube out and patch it, replace the tube (a bit of air in it makes it easier) and put the tire back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a Dutch language video but with very clear pictures, front wheel but rear wheel works the same: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hoe-doe-je-dat.nl/fiets/fietsband-plakken-video-tutorial.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hoe-doe-je-dat.nl/fiets/fietsband-plakken-video-tutorial.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T18:35:04.017" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T18:35:04.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29796" CreationDate="2015-04-01T19:34:07.430" Score="0" ViewCount="3695" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I was at a bike shop looking at single speed bikes. I rode one, but didn't buy it because I like to bike fast, and this bike must have weighed 2x more than my aluminum road bike (the bike was steel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The store owner told me that the bike weight will not have as great of an effect on my top speed as many other things both on the bike and things I could change about how I ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is he right or wrong? Does bike weight make a big difference or is it just very good marketing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T05:07:09.037" Title="how much of a difference does bike weight make when trying to maximize the bike's top speed?" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2015-04-02T14:07:14.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29793" CreationDate="2015-04-01T20:17:52.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The weight of a bike has virtually no effect top speed. It takes very nearly the same amount of effort to maintain a speed of 30 mph on a 20 lb bike and a 30 lb bike on flat ground. The biggest factors that come into play at high speeds are aerodynamics and rolling resistance ( slick, efficient tires ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/05/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/tech-faq-does-bike-weight-matter_220429&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/05/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/tech-faq-does-bike-weight-matter_220429&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, is top speed what you're really worried about? Probably not. Even if you like to bike fast, I truly, truly doubt you should be concerned with top speed. You'll probably enjoy a bike that accelerates quickly and feels nimble. Unless you live in a flat, remote area, in which case you probably wouldn't want a single speed, you're probably going to be accelerating and maneuvering more than you are achieving top speed. And again, these factors don't necessarily correlate with the weight of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T20:17:52.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29793" CreationDate="2015-04-01T20:44:29.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the usual argument is that an average person can easily lose one or two kilos of body weight, and that would cost good money if you take it from the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my experience, weight is more noticeable when riding uphill, but then, if you usually ride uphill I don't think you would want a single speed. Other issue would be speeding from a stop, or starting a sprint from a lower pace, but again, on a single speed you already have a problem with that, specially speeding from stop (or if your single gear is short, maintaining high speed for a good stretch, the eternal tradeoffs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rather start in a short gear with 5 kilos more and then switch to longer gear if we were to race 100 meters, or from a light stop to another, than on a single gear. I don't know, if you want speed, gearing seems to me a lot more important. On long stretches you could use longer gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, if we are comparing same gear ratio on same frame geaometries and handlebars, for the same cyclist, of course you want less weight, but is it worth the money? I don't think so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, if you were to magically create a clone of yourself, and race against him in the same magic bike, but one is 15 kilo and the other 7.5, and all conditions are magically the same, wind, body placement, whatever, physics of this planet will make the lesser weight bike faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it? that's up to you, and more specially to your cash availability. If you want an opinion, it is not, I ride a road bike and a mountain bike, the mountain bike must be 3x the weight of the road, and still, I ride a lot of Strava segments that I did faster on the mountain bike (it's got no suspension though). So, yep, hunching like an egg and saying to yourself I'm going to pass that guy on the scooter or die trying, that can be more relevant to speed than triple weight. And of course, having bottom bracket destroying hams is #1 in the speed equation... sometimes I wheelie from the sheer power, in a 52-13 ratio :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, diss weight and get some bike you fancy, and ride it fast if that's what you like. But don't put yourself or others in danger knowingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: only top speed?:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5yR4s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastEditorUserId="18463" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T21:11:37.690" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T21:11:37.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-01T21:46:08.740" Score="0" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tires on my Miami Sun tricycle have chevrons that point in the opposite direction and the label on the side wall which reads drive direction.&#xA;Do I align the tires using the chevron or the arrow stamped on the side wall ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18918" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T23:35:38.177" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T23:35:38.177" Title="Tire direction on Miami Sun tricycle" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29606" CreationDate="2015-04-01T21:52:23.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, looks like a lot of people harping on one point &amp;amp; not offering much other helpful advice. While probably right that you are not going at as high a cadence as you think, they are ignoring that the geometry of your body on the bike absolutely has an effect on your ability to maintain a a higher speed &amp;amp; cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More below, but to go faster I &lt;em&gt;suggest&lt;/em&gt;: Raise your seat, lower your stem &amp;amp; stem angle, put a set of butterfly bars on in an inverted position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Giant Cypress Hybrid also. The bike naturally has a very upright position, creating two issues working against you. 1: Much more wind resistance than a a bike with drop or flat bars. 2: Your weight &amp;amp; angle over the pedals is shifted back much more which is also less efficient &amp;amp; makes powerful, prolonged pedaling (higher cadence) more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I did when I wanted to start going faster on this bike was lower the angle &amp;amp; height of the stem &amp;amp; flip the handel bars upside down (left to right, not rotating still mounted to the stem), I also raised the seat as much as i could while still leaving enough bend in my knees while extended. Doing this made noticeable increases in my ability to pedal harder. Later on I experimented with tri-bars (could gain 2 mph on a straight away after dropping onto these), now I have switched to inverted butterfly bars, which while maybe not providing as efficient a position as the tris, they are, for me, more practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the gearing on this bike, personally I've never found myself needing a higher gear (unless flying downhill at 38 mph, and then well, I really don't want to go any faster anyway...) I have found myself wanting some lower gearing though, but that's another story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T21:52:23.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29797" CreationDate="2015-04-01T23:00:01.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would generally default to the drive direction indicated on the side wall of the tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know folks that run tires opposite of that recommendation for specific reasons (traction gains at the cost of rolling resistance), but generally, the manufacturer knows what they are doing when they put that arrow on the sidewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T23:00:01.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29802" CreationDate="2015-04-01T23:18:48.907" Score="0" ViewCount="1435" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the right, or back gears of my mongoose bicycle, the gears are not clicking as they should on the right side. Its stuck in 6th or 7th gear and it has a grip-shift that works fine on the left side. When I try to shift down I can hold it down and it will stay in gear but when I let go it flies back up to 6th gear. How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18921" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:35:29.773" LastActivityDate="2017-06-21T11:54:54.957" Title="Mongoose Right Bike Gears shifting up magically" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-06-21T19:35:27.293" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2015-04-02T00:30:44.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New Zealand:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round Taupo Bike ride - 160km, scenic. Do two laps if if once is not enough. &#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclechallenge.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclechallenge.com/&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K2  - 192km Dominated by steep hills.&#xA;Even the pros run triples. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arcevents.co.nz/k2home/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.arcevents.co.nz/k2home/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Le&#xA;Race: 100km Scenic, big hills (www.lerace.co.nz/) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Milford Moutain Classic : 120km . Very scenic, very big hills (sea level climb to 940m) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.milfordclassic.co.nz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.milfordclassic.co.nz/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And many more...... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T00:30:44.490" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-04-02T00:30:44.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29800" CreationDate="2015-04-02T00:31:56.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have a broken or worn shifter. Grip shifters have small plastic teeth inside them. The teeth loosely mesh so that it will move when twisted but tight enough to maintain the selected gear. These shifters are still common and relatively inexpensive generally around $10 US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T00:31:56.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1752" CreationDate="2015-04-02T00:54:13.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ragbrai 450 - 500 miles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fully supported ride (SAG wagons, ambulances, emergency transport) is always the last full week in July. The route varies every year. You start on the west side of Iowa with your back tire in the Missouri River and end with your front tire in the Mississippi. While called a party ride in some circles, note you average 70 miles a day, each &amp;amp; every day, for a full week. It starts on a Sunday and finishes Sat afternoon. There is an optional century loop one day of the ride. Typical climbs of 12,000 to 20,000 feet over the week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ride is physically challenging. You need to have completed at least 1,000 miles of training. The roads you ride on are typically closed, no traffic in either direction except for ambulances. Occasionally the road is only closed in the direction you are traveling. Police are usually stationed at every intersection. Ride registration covers your camping gear transportation, ambulances, camping, and entry to various events. (There is a concert in every overnight town you stay in.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ride has about 10,000 week long riders, 3,000 - 5,000 day riders and probably 3,000 bandits. Weeklong riders enter a lottery to win a place in the ride. (The lottery for this year is already closed, but you can find people selling their spots after the lottery results are posted.) Day passes are available for quite a while yet. For this years route visit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ragbrai.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ragbrai.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastEditorUserId="5360" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T01:00:17.283" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T01:00:17.283" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-04-02T00:54:13.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29732" CreationDate="2015-04-02T01:58:35.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use any ANT+ HRM strap and/or cadence/speed sensors. Garmin and others sell ANT+ compatible units. You don't have to wait for Shimano to release their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8828" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T01:58:35.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T02:48:06.150" Score="2" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rear axel is a Kung Ten W5ER from a 1999 Trek 4000. The freehub was sticking so I was taking the axle apart to free up / clean / lube the freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed after it was apart that there are 2 sizes of ball bearings for the axle, and I don't know which side gets the bigger bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I'm in trouble, any ideas out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18923" LastActivityDate="2020-11-22T15:34:46.327" Title="2 size bearings for hub which side of hub gets the bigger or smaller bearings?" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29807" CreationDate="2015-04-02T04:06:10.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most hubs are same size both sides (9 quarter inch bearings). If they aren't, normally its the smaller ones on the freehub side (slightly smaller than the other side, maybe by a 32nd of an inch) and the larger ones are like a quarter inch and on the opposite side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T04:06:10.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25525" CreationDate="2015-04-02T04:40:31.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could it be liability or even just association with a frame that breaks during a race and causes injury? Especially if this is a novel frame design that has not been proven?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Companies can be especially touchy about liability and reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18924" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T04:40:31.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29793" CreationDate="2015-04-02T05:07:09.037" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love this question, and the answers are solid, but let me add that the weight of moving parts on a bike is more important than the weight of non-moving parts. So for my money, a heavier (read: steel) frame and lighter wheels is optimal. In addition, stopping an object with greater mass takes more energy, so if you've got those light wheels and some good weight on them, you can go faster, farther, with less effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, and this is a personal tragedy for me, I especially like the point about the economics of losing weight versus buying a lighter bike. Very good but inconvenient point in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T05:07:09.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T08:04:42.210" Score="0" ViewCount="2405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time finding the technical documentation (equivalent of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/yx5hq4cezpdz641/alivio-crankset-service.pdf?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/yx5hq4cezpdz641/alivio-crankset-service.pdf?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;) for the Shimano Deore Hollowtech 1 crankset, FC-M510.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among others, I'm looking for information about which BB size I should get. Anyone has any info?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T16:27:42.927" Title="Technical documentation for Shimano FC-M510" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T08:08:51.223" Score="0" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just got my new frame from the LBS. They were supposed to face the frame, but only faced the head tube (hopefully, can't check it since the headset is already installed.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, they didn't face the BB shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm tired of bringing my bikes to LBS and getting them in a worst shape than they were before (tried 4 different), so I'm not gonna go back for facing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to install a square taper BB. &lt;strong&gt;I understand there's nothing like a properly faced BB shell&lt;/strong&gt;, but no LBS here in Belgium seems to be willing to do that kind of stuff, saying &quot;it's not necessary&quot;. So, which of the two following option is the best (or least worse, as it happens)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep the frame as-is and install the BB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strip the paint with a knife?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastEditorUserId="8322" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T14:54:53.157" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T16:49:29.410" Title="Frame not faced for BB. Strip the paint or leave as-is?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-04-07T14:40:54.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T08:46:44.480" Score="2" ViewCount="4820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a used Wilier Cento 1 carbon road bike frame (not the new Cento1SR, but the previous model). Now I would like to transfer all Ultegra 6700 groupset components from my existing bike to it. My current bike has narrower bottom bracket frame body than the Cento 1 so it uses Ultegra BB that extends from the frame. Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YwrEX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ultegra 6700 BB&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wilier Cento 1 on the other hand has a wider bottom bracket body which says &lt;em&gt;Wilier Oversize Bottom Bracket&lt;/em&gt; as seen on the image below. It's about 92-94mm wide (I haven't precisely measured it, but you know what standards are out there). This is how it looks like with fitted cranks (in this case Campagnolo):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xmxqF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wilier Oversize Bottom Bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The main question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I have to buy some additional BB bearings and plugs to put them directly into the frame but I don't know whether this is a kind of PressFit system so I would require some special tools to correctly install these bearing into the frame or are they just snuggly put in so I can actually do it myself without any extra tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1268" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T01:03:54.850" Title="How to fit BB bearings to install Ultegra Crank on road bike Wilier Cento 1" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29813" CreationDate="2015-04-02T09:45:07.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: frame is BB94 not 386&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your hollowtech bb wouldn't work as you correctly identified you'd need BB386 pressfit bottom bracket, (see exploded diagram below)you'd just need to make sure the bb you choose is compatible with your chainset and yes ideally you'd need a bottom bracket press to fit this or alternatively your lbs would fit it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd need something like a bb reducer spacer kit to change your bb from bb386 to bb30...&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-bb386-30-adapter-mw258a-/rp-prod129800?gs=1&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw0fOoBRDn88Pol8bqhN0BEiQARGVJKu15XG7osROW4gP5_7UQ0_SUJwOtcno4eromiGksWBsaAgqP8P8HAQ&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bb386/30 converter kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then the pressfit bb30 bb that will accept you ht2 ultegra cranks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-pf30-24-reducer-road-ee085-/rp-prod129801?gs=1&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw0fOoBRDn88Pol8bqhN0BEiQARGVJKmlRRw9Utf36lHsuVGqwbScSDhUvlPUrgJ6TNRq2HjcaArbY8P8HAQ&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FSA Reducer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G0HCG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bb386 exploded&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-press-fit-bottom-bracket-installer/?lang=en&amp;amp;curr=GBP&amp;amp;dest=1&amp;amp;kpid=5360596866&amp;amp;sku=5360596866&amp;amp;ci_src=18615224&amp;amp;ci_sku=5360596866uk&amp;amp;test=%7Bproduct_id%7D&amp;amp;utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_term&amp;amp;utm_campaign=Accessories&amp;amp;utm_medium=base&amp;amp;utm_content=sfoK5jtAr_dc%7Cpcrid%7C%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cprd%7C5360596866uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bb press tool&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;See Also... &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Overhaul-a-BB30-Bottom-bracket-2012.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to service a bb30 bb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18587" LastEditorUserId="18587" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T10:19:11.213" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T10:19:11.213" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T16:17:46.853" Score="0" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a bike that has v brakes on the rear wheel. Everytime i try to align the brakes after i ride and use a few times the rear brakes, one of the pads is rubbing on the rim. Please help as i have spent a lot of hours on it without gain anything. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18928" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T16:40:05.333" Title="How to align rear v brakes" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;alignment&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29815" CreationDate="2015-04-02T16:40:05.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the likely culprits is that you've put too much spring tension in on the arms. Start by loosening the spring tension on the arms, adjusting the brake and then increasing to just enough tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/linear-pull-brake-service-v-brake-type&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;These&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;links&lt;/a&gt; will be useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T16:40:05.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29812" CreationDate="2015-04-02T16:49:29.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things at play here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The actual issue of the bottom bracket facing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bike shop doing poor work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With common square taper BBs, you are pretty much looking entirely at problem 2. With a cartridge bearing square taper BB, it's not absolutely necessary that the bottom bracket is perfectly faced. Most decent quality frames, even unfaced, have a shell that is consistent enough for cartridge bottom brackets though. Still, having the shell faced is a good thing to do, and if you are using other bottom brackets styles, such as a hollowtech type, then it is absolutely necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the shop said they were going to face it, you paid for them to face it, but they didn't, then they obviously need to do what they said they were going to do. Putting the wrong sized seatpost in is also a seriously bad move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So really, your problem isn't one of whether to strip the paint or not, but is one of you need to find a better shop with better worksmanship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T16:49:29.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29606" CreationDate="2015-04-02T17:50:49.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something I haven't seen anyone say here is that your bike isn't made for high speeds. Higher speeds could be unstable on your hybrid, so it might be a good idea to try out some road bikes (or cyclo-cross if you ride on a variety of surfaces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18756" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T17:50:49.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8157" CreationDate="2015-04-02T18:18:31.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used both presta and shrader valves, like neither. &#xA;I go for Blitz/Dunlop. Easier to use than both others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it is just a case of what you are used to, but I think the Dunlop least fussy, easiest to use and least likely to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhbzI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vhbzI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T11:10:34.207" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T11:10:34.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29706" CreationDate="2015-04-02T18:55:49.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I help my wife up hills all the time so we can ride together with groups that are just a tad too fast for her while I still get some exercise.  You have to have pretty good handling skills to do it, and I wouldn't try it off-road, but it's surprising how much of a difference a slight push will make on a hill.  I just ride next to her with one hand on my handlebars an use my other hand to push slightly on the small of her back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16941" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T18:55:49.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29825" CreationDate="2015-04-02T23:43:37.950" Score="9" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently ordered &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00OIG4NEG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;hydraulic Shimano disc brakes with rotors&lt;/a&gt; and they came with a bunch of hardware, including this piece:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XGwtt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like it would fit under the screws that secure the rotor to the hub:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EeTJD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what I should do with it or what its function is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18932" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T01:12:01.597" Title="What does this piece do that came with my disc brake?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14625" CreationDate="2015-04-02T23:49:16.510" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you change your chain you must change the cassette or you're looking for problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain basically molds the cassette and when you put a new one on, it's fresh but the cogs are shaped by your old worn out chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the new chain will not work well with the old, worn cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18933" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T05:54:40.580" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T05:54:40.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25298" CreationDate="2015-04-03T00:19:24.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what year Specialized Brain you are talking about, but I have a 2005 epic.  Both Fox and Specialized told me that they didn't have parts and couldn't service the unit!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the schematics on line, cross referenced all the seals and &quot;proprietary&quot; parts and have stripped the shock and brain down for rebuild.  There is no mystery on the 2003 to 2006 Epics when it comes to filling the shock with oil and nitrogen.  Replace the seals, change the oil - being careful to avoid letting air in - then replace the rubber fill pellet, pellet screw and fill Brain with nitrogen.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fox will tell you this needs to be done by a tech, but all you need is a safety valve and needle, $20 to $50 on eBay, and someone with a nitrogen tank.  The needle goes through the pellet which is self sealing.  I don't about the newer ones but that's it to fixing the older ones.  Quick hint, have of the parts in the Brains are used in other Fox products, like ATV, truck and other bike shocks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS - I have seen people converting to air.  Not sure why anyone would bother when the nitrogen pellets are only $1.00, the special needle and valve $20.00 and $4.00 for nitrogen at your local tire place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18934" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T00:35:02.943" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T00:35:02.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29822" CreationDate="2015-04-03T01:12:01.597" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;These things are called tightening plates or lock washers. Your suggestion was righ in where it goes, here's an exploded diagram and &lt;a href=&quot;http://endurama.de/fotos/galerie/shimano_zee_sm_rt66_bremsscheibe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;installed photo&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dyhkj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T01:12:01.597" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13025" CreationDate="2015-04-03T01:58:02.907" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had exact same noise, a tink while I was out of the saddle torquing up hills. LBS identified it as the freewheel in my hub. They replaced, problem gone . They knew their stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18936" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-09-17T00:44:45.400" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T00:44:45.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29829" CreationDate="2015-04-03T05:03:40.177" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/ca/en/bikes/road/tarmac/tarmac-comp#geometry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.specialized.com/ca/en/bikes/road/tarmac/tarmac-comp#geometry&lt;/a&gt; and would like to know what &quot;Seat-Tube Angle&quot; means. For say the 56, I would assume that angle is like this &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/29eQt76.png&quot; alt=&quot;image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the horizontal black in parallel to the earth, the red is the bike frame and the blue is the angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct in my assumption?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18937" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T05:56:36.933" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T08:42:14.843" Title="Geometry measurement, from where to where" Tags="&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29828" CreationDate="2015-04-03T08:42:14.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are correct. The seat tube angle is measured relative to horizontal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a separate angle called &quot;derailleur angle&quot;, which is measured between the seat tube and chainstays. You'll rarely find it specified in the geometry data though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T08:42:14.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2529" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:26:31.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried my new large-size cruiser bicycle on the bus yesterday and the front wheel fender wasn't damaged, but buses constantly transmit forces in varying directions from bumps, potholes, turns, accelerations, decelerations and braking, so my concern is regular use of the bus racks over time. There's also a problem with the bike's back fender but it has to do with our light rail trains, not buses. Our Minneapolis light rail trains have vertical racks inside each rail car (you hook the front wheel at the top and the bike's rear wheel fits into a vertical slot at floor level). These vertical racks therefore put the entire weight of the bike, once secured in the rack, on the rear tip of its rear fender, bending the fender, stressing the fender brackets, possibly eventually breaking the fender's paint, and/or throwing the fender out of alignment. I wish transit admin staff, bicycle designers and bicycle rack designers could all be locked in the same room when the engineering specs for these vital accessories are put into a Request for Proposal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18941" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:26:31.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-03T19:25:26.367" Score="0" ViewCount="4148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a Nishiki cross bike and it has a Shimano Revoshift 7 speed.  The bike is about 3 years old or so and did not come with a manual and I am a biking novice.  The shifting I understand.  The left handlebar has a Revoshift friction handle with a &quot;+&quot; and &quot;-&quot; setting.  What is the purpose of this and what is the best setting?  I noticed that if it is set for least friction the chain came off the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18943" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T19:54:49.363" Title="Shimano revoshift 7 speed use" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29832" CreationDate="2015-04-03T19:54:49.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friction shifter allows you to continuously move the derailleur. The point of this on a front shifter (the left) is to trim the front derailleur. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html#trim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trimming&lt;/a&gt; the front derailleur is when you tweak the position of the front derailleur to account for the change in chain angle with shifting, e.g. eliminate the chain rubbing on the cage of the derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a &quot;best&quot; setting -- you'll adjust it depending on which gear combination you're in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T19:54:49.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5912" CreationDate="2015-04-03T20:38:30.960" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a upright bicycle you have a part of your weight on your legs part or even most of the time.&#xA;On a recumbent bike you do not have any part of your weight on your legs. I would say that makes for less tired legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that at the end of a day long ride I keep sitting on my 'bent trike with my feet on the pedals when waiting for our local ferry, while when on an upright bike I walk around a bit to relax my legs, no matter how short or long the ride has been.&#xA;Whether I keep sitting on my 'bent bike depend on how easy it is to hold on to something to keep balance, but when it is easy I stay on the bike more often than not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T20:38:30.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23837" CreationDate="2015-04-03T20:48:24.963" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bike petals come in 2 different thread sizes.&#xA;Get a petal set that uses the larger thread and just use the harder than aluminum steel shaft of the petals to cut the new threads into the crank arm.&#xA;Brute force simple and should outlast the bike unless you crack the aluminum.&#xA;Just my 2 cents worth. Hope it helps.&#xA;Oh yes, lots of thread cutting lubricant like you would use when cutting pipe threads.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18945" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T20:48:24.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23837" CreationDate="2015-04-04T03:26:21.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a pedal thread insert. here's a description of how to install one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.com/2010/12/repairing-stripped-pedal-thread.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.com/2010/12/repairing-stripped-pedal-thread.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T03:26:21.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29840" CreationDate="2015-04-04T13:08:35.880" Score="1" ViewCount="1573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble removing my bottom bracket.  I'm using quite a bit of force as far as I can tell. But neither side is budging. The bike is a 2011, and I've never removed the bottom bracket, but it's all aluminum, so I doubt the problem is with rust.   It's quite difficult to keep the tool from slipping out.  I've used this tool before on another bike without too many problems, but I just can't get it to work, and I don't want to strip the cups or do something destructive as this is my good bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cartridge-bearing-type-bottom-bracket-service-bbt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool website&lt;/a&gt; it says you can use a skewer to hold the tool in place if you have a hollow axle, but I don't have a hollow axle. I noticed that my tool works differently than the one on their site, and that the wrench is quite close into the bottom bracket. Mine mounts on a socket wrench, with a 1/2 adapter, and therefore is quite a bit out from the bottom bracket.  There are pictures below to illustrate the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mo24q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wrench with bottom bracket tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y8NGH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZMLA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Bracket With Wrench&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to remove the non-drive side by using my vise grips to grip the tool closer to the bottom bracket. The drive side still won't move, but the vise grips are slipping, not the bottom bracket tool, so I think I may just replace the tools if they have something better at my local bike store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mU1fg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hacked bottom bracket tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2015-04-04T13:25:29.057" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T22:10:35.093" Title="Trouble Removing bottom bracket. Is it my Tool?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29838" CreationDate="2015-04-04T13:16:37.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you've got the right direction you're turning and its still not budging, use some penetrating oil and/or  borrow a breaker bar/vise (and use it carefully). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things with your style of tool vs the park tool style of tool is that you can't get as much torque on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of aluminium, its conceivable that theres some corrosion, but dissolving it or heating it might be tricky depending on other types of materials involved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T13:16:37.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29838" CreationDate="2015-04-04T18:42:48.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I ended up bringing the bike into the shop. The friendly bike mechanic had let me borrow and old bottom bracket tool because they didn't have any other tools in stock. Long story short, he ended up using a 6 foot pipe on his bottom bracket tool to get it to move. The tool by itself did no good and the impact wrench did nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm going to buy a different tool that lets me get in closer to the bottom bracket as that was definitely the problem on the non drive side.  I tried holding the wrench as I turned it, and that let me put a little more force into it, but it still didn't work as well as it should. I'm convinced the design of my bottom bracket tool is flawed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T18:42:48.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16826" CreationDate="2015-04-04T18:58:58.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 23mm and 21mm tyres on my Mavic Reflex rims. It's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T18:58:58.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18418" CreationDate="2015-04-04T19:17:35.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start at the outside and work our way inwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most tyres don't care which way they rotate, although as others have said it may be beneficial to keep it going the same way for its lifetime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be slightly better for the fatigue-life of the spoke holes in the rim, the nipples, the hub flanges and the spokes if they are always put through the same load cycle as the wheel rotates; but my strong suspicion is that with correct (high) spoke tension the difference will be minuscule. On a rim-braked bike the the braking surface will fail first; on a disc-braked bike you'll destroy the wheel on potholes/cobbles/rock gardens before these are a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't see any issue at all with the hub shell, bearings, axle, or QR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12705" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T19:17:35.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29706" CreationDate="2015-04-05T10:30:26.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I used this setup to make a long day trip more manageable for her.  If your concern is just to get from A to B (and not improving as a rider), I think it might work quite well.  I wouldn't recommend it for stop-and-go city traffic, but on country roads it seemed to work amazingly well for us.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a spare inner tube (which you'll want anyway), secure a retractable dog leash to the frame/seat post of the stronger cyclist's bicycle.  Extend the leash to a length of ~2 bicycles and tie it to the front of the weaker rider's bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This let's the stronger rider, essentially, tow the weaker rider while still maintaining a comfortable (that is, comfortable for a novice) distance between the cyclists.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how clear this will be, but here is an example setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/En1u4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Two bicycles connected with a dog leash&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3162" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T10:30:26.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-05T21:42:07.817" Score="1" ViewCount="2166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a bit of a dilemma with regards to brakes on my fixed wheel bike. Currently I've got both brakes on, as standard road levers on the hoods of the drops, but now I'm running fixed instead of free, I've got no need for the rear brake.&#xA;I'm looking to get a single lever on the top of the drops, similar to a standard mountain/hybrid bike lever. However this seems problematic as I only need one lever, and most come in pairs, but more importantly, the diameter of the bars is odd - 25.4 mm where the stem clamps and 24.8mm (not the more standard 23.8mm) at the top of the drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to proceed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T14:39:43.493" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T18:01:25.863" Title="fixie brake lever" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T01:37:26.420" Score="4" ViewCount="30390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently purchased a Specialized Roubaix SL4 Elite Disc carbon frame bicycle - But I am not particularly happy with the colour. It is charcoal and white. I like to have a brighter colour.&#xA;Is there a way to repaint a carbon frame or at least change the white pin stripe to a bright green. &#xA;Thank you for your kind contribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18961" LastEditorUserId="18961" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T02:02:18.583" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T05:03:11.087" Title="How to repaint a Carbon bike frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29849" CreationDate="2015-04-06T01:40:22.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fixed gear and I don't find the rear brake useless. I actually Find it quite hard to skid the rear wheel with just the pedals unless I'm riding on wet roads. Personally, I also really like riding on the hoods, and I would leave the brakes they way they are. I would also leave on the drop bar levers because getting to a mountain bike style brake from the drops might be difficult in an emergency stop situation. I'd rather just use brakes for braking and allow myself to run a higher gear so I don't have to worry about stopping with my legs. Plus is you skid a lot, it wears out your tire prematurely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T01:40:22.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23026" CreationDate="2015-04-06T03:35:56.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Streuth, you are right! I just tried tightening my Shimano SR215s and now I can't get my shoes off! I thought you must have very thin feet, but I do not and this position is not all that tight. I have never tightened them up this much before simply because the ratchet straps are old and difficult to tighten. When I get some replacement straps, this is going to be a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than building up the straps with Sugru or tape you could grind away the ratchet teeth from the top of the strap with a box cutter or angle grinder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few, I managed to get them off using the blade of a pair of sissors inserted from the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to thank Fred the Magic Wonder Do because I have moved the buckles to the low screw position, not only making this over-tightened position near impossible but also allowing me to use a different part of the strap, giving new life to the straps and my shoes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18962" LastEditorUserId="18962" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T03:48:38.177" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T03:48:38.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29862" CreationDate="2015-04-06T05:47:28.210" Score="3" ViewCount="7877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding about 150&amp;nbsp;km a week commuting and on the weekend. I frequently do rides over 80&amp;nbsp;km. I'm riding a carbon cyclocross (Ridkey x-fire) with slicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My latest ride was on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Central_Coast_%28New_South_Wales%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Central Coast&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_South_Wales&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New South Wales&lt;/a&gt;, in a very hilly area. I rode 90&amp;nbsp;km with an elevation of 1200&amp;nbsp;m with an average of 29.5&amp;nbsp;km/h. Would I be able to join a group ride and not get dropped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will switching to a dedicated road bike make much difference to my average speed? I feel like my setup is good enough, and I frequently pass other riders on their high end roadies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18963" LastEditorUserId="3639" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T15:44:48.037" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T17:44:49.200" Title="Is a 29.5 km/h average speed decent for a 90 km ride (on road) with an elevation of 1200 m?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29853" CreationDate="2015-04-06T07:16:56.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether your numbers are descent depend on who will answer. I've never riden road so I find those numbers descent, but some people who ride road may tell you that those numbers are mediocre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to find out how you compare against others (and your self) in parts of that ride I suggest that you start using strava. Used wiselly it's a great tool for enhancing your rides, improving yourself as a rider and adding a lot of fun to routes that you may find boring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T07:16:56.257" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29853" CreationDate="2015-04-06T08:07:54.177" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything is relative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 99% of the population 30kph for 3 hours would be amazing. For a male A grade club rider it would be an off day. For a female A grade club rider it's not bad for a solo training ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About bunches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes an ad hoc bunch forms in a popular road. These can be dangerous - you don't know the experience level of these people, and a mistake from anyone in front of you can bring you down. If you get dropped from such a bunch you can be sure they will not care. It's best to avoid these bunches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Join organized rides, where people know you are a new member of the group and will teach you bunch riding. Even if they do like to ride flat out, organized group rides usually wait for stragglers at various points of the ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rides are often organized by clubs or bike shops. Ask at your LBS; they'll probably have some suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the strength you are showing, you'll probably be able to stick with bunches that ride in the 35-40 kph range, or maybe faster. Remember to do your share of the work, and don't try to impress anyone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T08:07:54.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29850" CreationDate="2015-04-06T13:35:56.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd avoid doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you do a light (typically wet) sanding by hand (&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; carefully), prime it with an appropriate primer (maybe a few times) and then paint over it with an appropriate color. However, since the sanding has to be done carefully (since its easy to destroy carbon fiber by sanding), you're going to end up paying someone a lot of money to do this (since it takes a lot of time to prep the frame). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't really use chemical strippers or other techniques that you'd apply for aluminum and steel frames can destroy the carbon fiber. You also can't do things like powder coating for the paint step, since you have to heat the frame to the point where the carbon fiber can be destroyed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really insistent on doing this, there are shops which specialize in repainting carbon fiber. But, they'll charge you an arm and a leg due to the amount of labor they'll have to put in to prep the frame for repainting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T13:35:56.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29850" CreationDate="2015-04-06T15:25:42.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check if Specialized will sell the pin stripe kit.  But I would not recommend it. Tape over the old would be difficult and not sure it would stick.  Remove the old could damage the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would learn to like white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider bright green bar tape, seat post, and saddle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T15:25:42.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31311" CreationDate="2015-04-06T15:36:15.020" Score="1" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got Campagnolo Veloce gear system and I recently changed my worn-out rear cassette to a new one. Since then I've experienced issues when shifting to higher gears. When I shift, the cable moves all the way to its extreme position, or at least skips 3 cogs. Shifting to lower gears works just fine. This issue is likely not related to the pulley/cassette because I can feel the shifter releasing way too much even if the cable is not connected to rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have done the indexing and H, L and B screw tuning. Do you have any suggestions how to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The chains were also changed at the same time with the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18849" LastEditorUserId="18849" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T16:03:33.030" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T16:26:55.687" Title="Rear derailleur shifts all gears at once" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;&lt;skipping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29811" CreationDate="2015-04-06T17:02:58.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is an older style octalink crankset.  The documentation is available &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5sElLKAaVJNdGtoMHFYX1c2LXM/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for the octalink version and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.paul-lange.de/support/shimano/explosionszeichnungen_archiv/FC/FC-M510-S-EV.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for the square version.  As to what size BB you'll need that will depend on your frame.  There are several sizes of octlink BBs available depending on how your frame was manufactured.  If you don't have your old BB available with a legible size on hand, I would recommend taking the frame and cranks into a shop and having it measured so they can order you the correct size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T16:27:42.927" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T16:27:42.927" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29853" CreationDate="2015-04-06T17:38:20.143" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding at 30kph average for 3 hours, in a hilly area is a solid effort.  Assuming your pack riding skills are sufficient, you will also likely do fine in in a club ride that averages 30-40kph (but see the pack riding primer below). Club rides will have a faster pace than what you are riding now, but you will also be working a lot less (about 30% less) at any given speed because of drafting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now of course this assumes your listed average speed is an honest average speed. That is you started your timer, rode 90 km, then stopped the timer and found you averaged 29.5 kph.  If by &quot;average&quot; you mean when you took the time to look at your speedometer you were often doing 29.5kph, then it is harder to assess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Short primer on pack riding.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is hard to give a definitive whether or not you will be dropped because solo riding and pack riding are very different disciplines and club rides also come in many different forms, from very competitive &quot;A&quot; group training rides with a drop policy (i.e., you are essentially on your own if you get tired or get a flat - very advanced groups), to others focused on sustained pace (what you likely do now) with no-drop policies.  If you join a no-drop ride, then the answer should be &quot;no, you will not be dropped.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Riding in a &quot;fast&quot; group&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you explicitly asked about getting dropped I will assume you are looking at joining one of the faster club rides that may have a drop policy.  In this case your pack riding skills will be just as important as your base fitness.  If you feel comfortable in a group you should have no problem holding tight to a wheel, where you can  will get a good draft and will be able to sustain higher speeds.  Riders that feel less comfortable will often allow big gaps to form or ride off the back to feel &quot;safer.&quot;  This will require a lot more energy for a given speed.  You will also be able to read the pack, and keep a good drafting position as the group surges.  If you get taken by surprised in surges you can find yourself dropped quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your pack handling skills are sufficient, riding in a fast group will also require two types of fitness, endurance fitness and peak output.  The endurance fitness is what you are doing right now and will help ensure you can put in an effort for 3-4 hour duration of the club ride. The peak output fitness will be important to handle pack surges.  Often competitive club rides will have sections where there is either an all out sprint or it is &quot;common&quot; knowledge the next x kilometres will be all out effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all your milage has been at one consistent speed, then you might find these types of surges difficult to handle, even though your base endurance fitness is excellent.  If you find this happening, it isn't necessarily because you lack fitness, but you may simply not have all the right fitness components. Supplementing your distance training with interval training can go a long way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many novice riders make an number of tactical errors that make it harder to finish the ride.  A common mistake is try to take long, long, pulls to &quot;prove&quot; how strong they are.  Keep you pulls short (i.e., under a minute) to ensure you have lots of energy and don't build-up a lactate debt.  As you do more club rides you can start trying longer pulls if that is your thing.  Another common mistake is putting in too much effort, too early.  Many fast rides will do the hard efforts on out-and-back sections.  This means you can get temporarily dropped and catch back in as the group comes back from a hard effort. If you are unsure if you can sustain repeated high intensity intervals, it may be best to opt out of effort and catch back in after everyone has finished tearing each others legs off.  You would be surprised how refreshed you can feel by skipping an effort or two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel comfortable in a group, have no problem hold tight to a wheel and can sustain repeated bursts of speed, then you there is a good chance you that you can hold in on an advanced group ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Types of Group Rides&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As eluded to earlier (and in other answers) not all club rides are created equal.  Some rides are focused on building base fitness and camaraderie.  These groups are usually focused on riding a consistent pace (no surges) and usually have a &quot;no drop&quot; policy. These types of rides are a great if you are new to pack riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many clubs will also have multiple different rides on any given day so you can do some trial and error to find the one that best suits you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest chatting up your local clubs, ask about their club ride policies and see which one best jives with what you want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T17:44:49.200" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T17:44:49.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T19:00:09.663" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I press down hard on my right foot trying to go fast or up a hill I hear a noise coming from my bike. What is this? Its brand new... If it isn't an easy fix I will take it back. It only happens with my right foot and when pressing down hard...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh also on my wife now bike if you press too hard on each pedal there is a creaking noise. What is this? sounds something is not lubed. It is a new bike also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18969" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T07:04:19.997" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T12:38:35.330" Title="new MTB creacking on hard pedaling" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29865" CreationDate="2015-04-06T19:00:13.890" Score="0" ViewCount="4160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm the fool who didn't wash the snow off his bike - it's a rusty mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just taken apart the front disc brake as it was rubbing. I think that was more to do with the disc being bent, but as I was doing it, I found the disc brake pads (?) are pretty rusty. This is what they look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k507C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rusty disc brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should this concern me at all? Can I clean them up, or should I replace them? Or are they fine just to be left?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18968" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T19:08:25.283" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T23:00:22.797" Title="Are rusty disc brake pads a worry?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rust&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29864" CreationDate="2015-04-06T20:24:08.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rust on the surfaces of the pads &amp;amp; disc could cause extra wear &amp;amp; noise, or if bad enough reduce the effectiveness of the brakes. If there is enough present that you can see residue on your finger after rubbing the surface, I would suggest cleaning with a stiff bristled brush or a kitchen scrubber &amp;amp; isopropyl alcohol (some people have recommended automotive brake cleaner too). There will probably still be some rust coloring on the pad, but it shouldn't be enough to cause a problem.&#xA;After cleaning, you should really inspect the metal around the pad too to make sure it is not corroded to the point that it may not fit the caliper right or could possibly break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T20:46:55.347" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T20:46:55.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29864" CreationDate="2015-04-06T20:25:30.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rust or other build-up on your pads is not an issue if you have enough surface left. Depending on the bran 1-2mm on either side is plenty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your brakes aren't biting properly clean the pads and rotors with rubbing alcohol. Use an old toothbrush for the pads and a clean rag for the rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18784" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T20:25:30.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29876" CreationDate="2015-04-06T21:53:18.160" Score="0" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike seems to all of a sudden developed a creaking sound when I pedal. It appears to be there in every gear. Bu t I noticed it appears to only happen when I put pressure on the left pedal. What could it be ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T13:59:54.350" Title="creaky sound when cranking" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-04-07T19:28:18.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2015-04-06T22:07:26.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone who has bought bikes at cost in the past, there is more margin in bicycles then what these LBS want us to believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example a 2000 bike, the approximate cost to make at factory is roughly 700 dollars. They sell it to the LBS for 1200-1400 and then they sell it to the consumer for 2099.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think these numbers are not realistic, I have purchased a name brand carbon bike from the factory for less then 1/3 of the sticker price at the local store. I had family that worked there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would absolutely feel it is okay to ask for a better price. If the LBS is insulted then they should re-evaluate their customer service practices and pricing.So I would absolutely feel it is okay to ask for a better price. If the LBS is insulted then they should re-evaluate their customer service practices and pricing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why there is such an increase recently with online dealers etc...Why should I pay 900 for a group set when I can get it online for less then 400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18970" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T22:07:26.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29864" CreationDate="2015-04-06T22:47:30.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you clean the pads with some brake cleaner and a brush and they just look rusty, it's not necessarily a problem provided your brakes are grippy and effective. If clean them and replace any bent discs and your problems go away, you're probably safe as long as you keep a close eye on things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, if your brakes are grippy, quiet, and smooth, a little rust never hurt anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T22:47:30.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29864" CreationDate="2015-04-06T23:00:22.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the rust on the pad surfaces will go away on its own when you use the brakes.  It's probably just a thin layer on the surface.  I don't think it hurts the brake disks, since rusted metal is softer than the original metal before rusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rust on the backing material probably doesn't matter much either, since you were still able to remove the pads in their current rusty condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, brakes on cars also rust when they get wet and sit for a few days -- you can hear that they sound different the first time you use them after they got rusty.  But that doesn't seem to hurt them -- they still last for tens of thousands of miles.  I think the technology is similar to the disk brakes on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T23:00:22.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T23:12:11.090" Score="4" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every year, it seems I am on a training ride 5-10 miles from home and while torquing up, I snap the hanger throwing the rear derailleur into my spokes and locking up my rear wheel. I am 205lbs and 5'10&quot; and still squat pretty heavy so I am wondering if the combination of my weight and my force is wearing out the hangers quickly causing this and if there is a known way to check this for fatigue before I get on the road. I use a 2012 GTR Series 5 aluminum bike. If I ask at a bike shop, they will just try and sell me a tri bike. I want a tri bike but I don't want one if it wont change anything in my sprint and olympic tri experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18972" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T00:02:27.673" Title="former weightlifter turned triathlete repeatedly breaking hanger" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;&lt;hanger&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8386" CreationDate="2015-04-07T00:09:51.020" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lancasterarchery.com/x-spot-huntsman-camo-armguard.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lancasterarchery.com/x-spot-huntsman-camo-armguard.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a arm guard for shooting archery ... they come in several sizes styles and colors ... been using them for my pant leg for years... quick on and off and they work perfect ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lot more durable than the neoprene and dosent make my leg sweat. .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lancasterarchery.com/saunders-diamond-defendertm-armguard-black.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lancasterarchery.com/saunders-diamond-defendertm-armguard-black.html&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18974" LastEditorUserId="18974" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T00:28:24.590" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T00:28:24.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29871" CreationDate="2015-04-07T00:21:32.417" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way you asked the question, it sounds like you think the following is happening: first, the derailleur hanger wears out/weakens, then it snaps, and this causes the derailleur to go into the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is much more likely that the chain of events is the following: the derailleur is mis-adjusted, when you shift to the largest cog on the rear, the derailleur goes into the spokes, and this causes the derailleur hanger to break off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the inner limit screw on the rear derailleur is too far out, needs to be tightened a bit, until it reliably keeps the derailleur from moving too close to the spokes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the chain is too short, and when you shift onto the largest rear cog and the largest front chainring (not recommended in general), the chain gets too tight and this rips off the derailleur.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T00:21:32.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2015-04-07T12:27:33.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Silence...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found this works in most negotiations. Ask a direct but open question like &quot;what's the deal with discounts on this bike&quot; and then just wait until the other person fills the silence. Even when it feels like they've finished talking, if they haven't really answered your question stay quiet and don't make confirming sounds. They will almost certainly answer your question. Don't be afraid to ask that awkward question either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tldr: Make them do the talking, keep quiet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18979" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T12:27:33.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8891" CreationDate="2015-04-07T13:29:54.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've made 1700 km before I changed my pads (just rear - front pads are still OK, at about 50%). I had resin pads and now I have switched to sintered metal - so far not too loud, but braking force is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Shimano BR-M395 hydraulic brakes, and IMHO they are great (not perfect, but in city - more than enough for me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18980" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T00:29:22.570" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T00:29:22.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29867" CreationDate="2015-04-07T13:59:54.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pedal itself (even if it moves freely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bottom bracket&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The saddle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose crank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to isolate each one of these by taking the weight off each in turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was recently convinced my saddle was creaking as it only happened when sitting down but it turned out to be the left pedal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18981" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T13:59:54.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29878" CreationDate="2015-04-07T15:46:22.447" Score="4" ViewCount="21929" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a carbon fiber wheel for my bike. It turns out the wheel isn't right for my hybrid bike for a number of reasons: brake availability, hub diameter, rim width, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I'm on the market for a performance rim that will fit my hybrid bike. But I don't know, when looking at the specs for a rim/wheel, what I need to look for to ensure this is the right wheel for my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the specs / measurements / features that determine whether a rim is designed to fit a road bike vs. a hybrid/commuter bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5372" LastEditorUserId="5372" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T19:09:14.237" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T22:30:36.753" Title="What are the differences between road rims/wheels and hybrid?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29877" CreationDate="2015-04-07T17:13:56.807" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Hub Width&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On road, mountain, and hybrid, the front hubs are 100mm in width. On road bicycles the rear is typically 130mm, where on a MTB it is typically 135mm. Measure this from your old hub, and DON'T stretch/force a different hub width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wheel (Rim) Diameter&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most typical road rim is a 700c which will mean the bead seat diameter of the rim is 622mm, and the typical mountain bicycle will either have 26&quot; (559mm BSD), 29&quot; (622mm), or one of each. There are many non-typical sizes, however, so see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Tire Sizing Page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While some of this is rim sizing, it's the overall wheel size that matters - note that 29&quot; MTB and 700c rims have the same BSD, but are unlikely to work well or fit at all (without serious brake modifications, to say the least).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to see what various rim/tire combinations look like visually to compare them to your current setup, you can pick various ones (and see the resulting measurements in mm) &lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelspoking.com/Build.aspx?Mode=Basic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;on a site I built&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Brake Compatibility&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're either going to have rim brakes, which require rims specifically made with a braking surface and additional strengthening in that area (read: a bit heavier), or disc brakes which require a hub that can accept a disc rotor (and matching disc mounts on the frame and/or fork).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For best results, if you have rim brakes and don't plan to upgrade, get a non-disc hub and rim brake designed rim, and if you have disc brakes then get disc compatible hubs and rims without a braking surface (disc brake rims). This will lessen the additional (unused) weight and likely shave off some cost as well, but it is possible to have a rim brake rim with a disc hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some road-style (caliper) brakes, you may have to adjust or even replace the brakes if you vary too far from their rim/tire clearance capabilities, so for best results stay somewhat close to what you had (or have the possibility of replacing brakes as well). V-Brakes, cantilever, and disc brakes are more forgiving on rim/tire size variances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tire Width&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the most tricky part on a hybrid, as their tires (and thus rims) are typically somewhere between a MTB (1.8&quot;, 1.9&quot;, 2.0&quot;, 2.1&quot;, 2.3&quot; being common) and a road bike (18mm, 20mm, 23mm, 25mm and 28mm being common). You'll need to use a caliper where the tire fits through the forks and frame to get a handle on your maximum size (allowing for some clearance) and then selecting a desired tire width up to that maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Rim Width&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This needs to match the desired / compatible tire width, see below (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's site&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EwkOp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Tire and Rim Compatibility&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all of the above match, the wheel is good to go (with perhaps some minor brake adjustments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T17:13:56.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29889" CreationDate="2015-04-07T17:50:51.593" Score="7" ViewCount="2473" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought a chain with a &lt;strong&gt;master link&lt;/strong&gt; (packaging said &lt;strong&gt;quick connect link&lt;/strong&gt;), it looks just like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://rideons.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/masterlink.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Master Link aka Quick Connect Link&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bit however won't fit cleanly through my derailleur, it snags on the wall right as it goes onto the first jockey wheel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://imgrush.com/gx4uyL1RbI-j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Master Link snags on rear derailleur plate&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off I &lt;strong&gt;tried adding a washer&lt;/strong&gt; to widen the clearance between the derailleur plates. This helped a little but I can't add any more washers because the screws ain't long enough.&#xA;I've tried reversing the direction of the master-link plate, won't work because it hits the cogs. I've also adjusted the high and low screws of the derailleur, to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid that if I try to file down the pin it will make the chain more prone to failure.&#xA;Wouldn't it be better to bend the derailleur plate out of the way somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something here, did I install something inappropriately or pick a wrong part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The packaging of the chain says &lt;em&gt;1/2 x 1/8 / 114L, suits most geared bicycles&lt;/em&gt; :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18985" LastEditorUserId="18985" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T14:11:26.123" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T14:11:26.123" Title="Chain with master link / quick connect link doesn't clear rear derailleur" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;master-link&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29879" CreationDate="2015-04-07T19:07:36.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you have the wrong part.  Count the number of cogs in the cassette / freewheel.  Get a chain for that number of speeds.  Probably a 9 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T19:07:36.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T19:50:25.503" Score="4" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so this is my issue.  On my commute home there is a spot where there is a light straight ahead, before the white line the cycle lane mergers with the path on the left.  Does this mean i can bypass the light, or am i jumping it if it is red? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R4o2a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cycle path&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18987" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T19:59:01.070" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T21:17:32.353" Title="can you use a cycle path to bypass red lights?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;london&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29882" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T19:58:36.037" Score="2" ViewCount="891" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've got a nice hybrid bike that I picked up secondhand, was doing some maintenance on it to get it up and running and thought I'd replace the bearings in the rear axle.  In doing this, I've found a small pit in one of the cone nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a picture, but this is the type of thing (In reality, mine's not as bad as this, it's less long and less deep):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JtCf3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just thinking, would it be a really bad (or silly) idea to try to file the whole nut, so that the surface is smooth. I appreciate that this would be quite a lot of work to get right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cone nuts seem to vary so much and finding an exact replacement could be tricky, so thought I'd explore this idea...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look forward to hearing your thoughts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18991" LastActivityDate="2018-11-14T12:29:31.737" Title="Repairing a damaged cone nut" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29882" CreationDate="2015-04-07T20:32:17.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a lathe the tolerances are going to be too high for you to be able to to do an acceptable job here.  Plus, I believe that the cone is surface hardened, after you grind through that the underlying material will be too soft.  If you visit your local bike shop they should be able to match it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T20:32:17.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29881" CreationDate="2015-04-07T21:12:45.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The light controls the stop line (and, if there is one, the advance stop line). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't tell from the streetview image, or from streetview itself or the satellite view, whether the cycle path moves from the road to the footway before the stop line or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does - you don't have to cross the line, and the light doesn't affect you (so long as you follow the cycle path onto the footway). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't, or if you choose to stay on the road, you'll be crossing the line and controlled by the light. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T21:12:45.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29887" CreationDate="2015-04-07T21:20:08.047" Score="12" ViewCount="13126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’ve been riding for 40+ years of which the last 25 I’ve ridden Specialized.&#xA;Around April last year I decided to replace my old bike with a brand new Sirrus Sport, on an XL frame. While I love the looks and riding it, I have a serious safety concern. &#xA;It has happened now multiple times that when I make a turn at a relatively high speed,&#xA;the pedal hits the ground scaring the hell out of me. While this has happened in the past&#xA;with other bikes, it has never happened to me this frequent, to the point that I don’t feel safe riding and turning at high speeds and that of course impacts my overall performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if anyone has had the same experience with my exact same bike model. Could this be a Specialized design issue...? or could it be that whoever assembled the bike used the wrong stems or pedals...?I've got some pictures of the damaged pedals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uGkOx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wzFdl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAqUD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKVf9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d appreciate your feedback, or comments regarding how to fix this. I've contacted the place I bought the bike twice but I'm not getting an answer, perhaps I should try Specialized directly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18994" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T11:55:13.090" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T10:06:09.467" Title="Pedals hits the ground too often while turning at relatively high speed" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29885" CreationDate="2015-04-07T21:35:58.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three options - or combination &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coast through the turn with pedals horizontal to the ground &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more narrow pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shorter crank arm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T21:35:58.737" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29885" CreationDate="2015-04-07T21:47:02.220" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's definitely possible that the bottom bracket height is lower than your previous bike and/or your crankarm length is longer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BB could be lower to improve handling and I have definitely seen longer crankarms on large bikes.  A typical measurement is 175cm but you could see 170 on a small frame or 180 on a larger frame. The longer crankarm would be to accommodate your longer legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look on the inside of the crankarm, you should see the length stamped in there, or you could measure from the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the hole where the pedals are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's an inherent design issue but it could be a different design that doesn't work well with your riding style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: When cornering hard if you are going to have a foot down, you want your outside foot down.  This lets you keep your weight over the tires for maximum traction.  If you really want to continue to corner hard and fast you could ride hard in, drop the outside pedal, corner hard and then standup out of the corner and hammer on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, back to your original question, if you want to try and track down the issue, I would measure the bottom bracket height and look for/measure the crankarm length.  One or both of those measurements compared to your old bike would give you some insight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18992" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T21:47:02.220" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29885" CreationDate="2015-04-08T03:55:20.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would you consider clipless pedals instead of clipped platform? This is probably the most turning clearance for the dollar, second to replacing the crank arms with shorter ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A set of these pedals will improve your power output as you can pull harder on the upstrokes, as well as shaving probably ~1&quot; or more off your pedal clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kdvQE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clipless Pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One downside is that they are terrible to ride on without shoes designed to clip in, though some types (like SPD) have shoes with the clipless hardware recessed into the sole for easier walking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3777" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T03:55:20.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29879" CreationDate="2015-04-08T05:39:21.063" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That chain connector is not only for single speed, but I believe it is for &lt;strong&gt;1/8&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; chains as well, so you may have a &lt;strong&gt;track chain&lt;/strong&gt;, which is not meant for multi-speed drivetrains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not an 1/8&quot; chain, and is instead a 3/32&quot; chain, and your drive train is 8 speed or less, you can just replace the master link and you should be good to go. The master links only cost a few dollars so it can be a lot cheaper than swapping out the whole chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Master links for multi speed chains look more like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PQuVW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sram master link&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you have a chain tool, you could just remove a full link from the chain, skip the whole master link business entirely and ride today and let future Leeroy deal with it. Being short one link shouldn't be very problematic. This is also the only option if you have a 1/8&quot; chain as mentioned above, and don't want to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T05:39:21.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-08T09:13:30.613" Score="3" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering if you are able to put the cadence and speed monitors of the polar cs200 on the rear wheel for stationary training?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19004" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T09:22:10.203" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T13:11:54.057" Title="Cadence and speed monitor on rear wheel?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29890" CreationDate="2015-04-08T09:29:13.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Polar 200 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.polar.com/e_manuals/CS200/Polar_CS200_user_manual_English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;user manual&lt;/a&gt; says that the speed sensor and the cycling computer must be no more than 30-40cm apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cadence sensor attaches to the frame, near the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could test how far away the speed sensor will transmit by just moving the computer away from the bike with the front wheel spinning. If it works at 1 meter distance, then putting the speed sensor magnet on the rear wheel and moving the sensor is worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that you'll need to juggle the orientation of the sensor and the computer to see how they work best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T13:11:54.057" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T13:11:54.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29892" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-08T09:49:34.817" Score="0" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got two punctures in two weeks on my rear wheel. I use the carrera tdf with the kenda tyres supplied. The inner tubes I used were both quite short at the valve to the point that I could only just pump it up with my hand pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would tighten the lock nut so that the valve was secure but I noticed before doing this that as pressure was released from the tube the valve would sink deeper into the rims. I was worried that this sinking effect due to decreased pressure would cause the inner tube to rip next to the valve if secured with the lock nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone offer an answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19005" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T15:52:12.857" Title="Can having a valve too short cause punctures?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29849" CreationDate="2015-04-08T11:45:25.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Diatech Dirty harry lever will fit - most bmx brake levers can be used. Dirty harry lever has got good cable pull and it's hard wearing as it was originally designed for bmx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen lots of people riding fixed using this lever&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/dia-compe-tech-99-dirty-harry-brake-levers/?lang=en&amp;amp;curr=GBP&amp;amp;dest=1&amp;amp;kpid=5360343469&amp;amp;sku=5360343469&amp;amp;ci_src=18615224&amp;amp;ci_sku=5360343469uk&amp;amp;test=%7Bproduct_id%7D&amp;amp;utm_source=google&amp;amp;utm_term&amp;amp;utm_campaign=Components&amp;amp;utm_medium=base&amp;amp;utm_content=smhG0711j_dc%7Cpcrid%7C%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cprd%7C5360343469uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dirty Harry BMX lever&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18587" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T11:45:25.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29582" CreationDate="2015-04-08T12:16:20.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weight limits are usually based on what the wheels can take rather than the frame. Also like with most things nowadays the manufacturers build in a margin of error so you can likely ride it safely 10-15 lbs above the actual limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding on compact gravel should not bother the bike so long as you keep it clean - make sure dust isn't getting into the hinges. To rule out any issues with the hinges clean them thoroughly and apply a light coat of quality lube something like Dumonde or Finishline. Then ride the bike and see if the creak gets any better. If it does, there may be some play in your hinges. A good bike shop should be able to adjust that play for you. If it does not get better the culprit is likely somewhere else. Possible sources could be the saddle mount or bottom bracket area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18784" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T12:16:20.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2015-04-08T13:53:45.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://henryjameslau.tumblr.com/post/112964512637/building-a-single-chainring-road-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;built myself a single chainring bik&lt;/a&gt;e and I'm just having this problem. Bike ran fine for the first month now the chain jumps off the chainring when on the smaller sprockets. I had a dodgy link in the chain which was giving too much flex so I replaced that and it seems to run better so chain your chain but the problem is still there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to another persons suggestion of putting a single speed chainring on, that probably won't work because single speed chains and chainrings are thicker and so are incompatible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19003" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T13:53:45.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-08T14:23:25.837" Score="1" ViewCount="3800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to freshen up a 60's Raleigh Sports that has the old standard brake blocks on it.  If I able to put modern pads (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolstop.com/images/ks-bmxdl_art_lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.koolstop.com/images/ks-bmxdl_art_lg.jpg&lt;/a&gt;) from a cantilever brake on it, as long as they physically fit the rims, will I run into issues with braking forces causing extra stress?  Any issues with performance?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is all stock with side pull brakes and levers on it.  Wheels are original steel and seem to be true (not checked in a stand).  Fork, frame, and wheels are in great shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note/discussion:  Koolstop carries the blocks (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolstop.com/english/continental.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.koolstop.com/english/continental.html&lt;/a&gt;) as well marketed for such a bike, recommended or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T12:37:39.073" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T14:52:07.067" Title="Replacing old brake blocks with modern pads" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9085" CreationDate="2015-04-08T14:53:03.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 70 &amp;amp; recently had a right total knee replacement &amp;amp; being a keen cyclist all my life I was very worried I may never cycle again , so my local bike shop drilled a new hole for the pedal 25 mm further up the crank ,&amp;amp; it's perfect . I've not bothered to cut off the excess , just in case I ever get full movement ! I suppose it would've been easier if it had been the left side crank !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19009" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T14:53:03.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29849" CreationDate="2015-04-08T18:01:25.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;BMX levers work well. Tektro makes some decent ones, too. Just buy a pair and have a spare, or try and sell the second one on Craigslist if you really don't want to hold onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18973" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T18:01:25.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29897" CreationDate="2015-04-08T21:36:14.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those long &quot;mountain bike&quot; Kool-stops work fine on my modern skinny wheel road bike with side-pull calipers. If the modern Kool-stops fit (and don't see why not), I'm sure they will outperform those vintage looking ones - the contact area is much greater. I'd even bet the long contact patch results in less torque on the caliper arms, but I doubt it's an issue either way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those Kool-stops are nice, the mounting hardware allows fine adjustment of the plane of the brake surface. You're supposed to adjust them with a little toe-in (toe-out?) so the inevitable torque when applied straightens them out (we're talking a very small amount of inevitable torque twist - but the Kool-stops are designed to account for that). That little bend on the tip of the red side helps with the setup for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the bike in and ask the bike shop, but my guess is they'll work fine on 60s era calipers/skinny wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastEditorUserId="5382" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T21:42:45.670" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T21:42:45.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29863" CreationDate="2015-04-09T02:12:22.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few options here, and this troubleshoot resource, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html#bottom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html#bottom&lt;/a&gt; may help shed light on why more information would help us identify the problem. You may even be able to identify the problem yourself with that page and the glossery &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/glossary.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/glossary.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18996" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T02:12:22.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29863" CreationDate="2015-04-09T12:04:34.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If only one side is creaking, it's probably the pedal or crank arm not screwed tight. So first tight them up (for the pedal you probably need a special wrench, for crank arm it's a 8mm hex or 14mm wrench). You should tight it as fast as you can, as it can brake the crank arm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When both sides are creaking, it could be that both sides are loose, but it also can be a problem in wheels i.e. spokes are loose, or hub is broken, or it can be the BB.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the much common problems, but as @mattM linked at sheldon brown, it can be other things as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T12:04:34.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29911" CreationDate="2015-04-09T12:53:07.223" Score="3" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking at a full suspension MTB with an Aluminium frame. It's cheap but needs to be welded as the frame is cracked. The bike is a Cult Insomnia 52 inch. It's cracked at the lower bracket, is it scrap or worth a repair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19019" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T02:22:06.390" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T02:22:06.390" Title="Mtb weld repair Al frame" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12504" CreationDate="2015-04-09T12:56:48.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes your just lucky. Soaking makes sense.maybe its the concentration of amonium,2-3 percent in regular store.they make 30-50 percent concentrated also,use outside only is you find it.There are sources online for liquid fertilizer 82-0-0,but has some sulfur;hope to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19020" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T12:56:48.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29913" CreationDate="2015-04-09T14:29:58.910" Score="0" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NGdZ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front wheel is ruined. Back is normal, but I can replace it if it worth.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It have 5 gears.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It have no serial number under BB.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here my questions:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Can anyone tell when this bike was manufactured?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. How much can a bike like this cost if fully repaired?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. I can get any parts (good quality), so, if it worth to repair, what parts should NOT be changed (as antique), and what HAVE to be changed to modern parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T14:23:26.093" Title="Does this bike count as antique?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12504" CreationDate="2015-04-09T14:46:23.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can try to use caustic soda. It will melt down the aluminum. But you have to be very careful. Watch this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dYnSVVDxrE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19018" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T14:46:23.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29906" CreationDate="2015-04-09T15:27:55.407" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presumably that's 52 cm. Generally, a crack in an Al frame (or most frames), especially in an area which gets a lot of stress makes it scrap (esp. if its supposed to be used off road). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, I'd scrap this frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T15:27:55.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6286" CreationDate="2015-04-09T16:51:00.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flex in the system robs you of useful cable travel and feel, but does not reduce power (provided the lever is not bottoming out). Imagine hanging a 1kg weight from a hook by a steel cable vs a rubber band - the rubber would stretch a lot more, but both would pull on the hook with the same 1kg force.&#xA;Having used several different models of Tektro brakes in the past, I would say the most likely problem is the brake pads (assuming you're using stock ones). Tektro pads that I've seen varied from bad to terrible, and replacing them with everyone's favorite brand (the one with the word &quot;stop&quot; in the name) always improved braking performance tremendously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8137" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T16:51:00.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29909" CreationDate="2015-04-09T18:52:32.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Just estimating from the picture it could be late seventies early eighties&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I see similar bikes for sale at around 150 €&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With a bit of effort it coud be turned into a robust, efficient commuter, but it is not worth too much as antique. The frame is the best part, but equipping everything else new might get expensive. But the front wheel doesn't look that ruined, you could put new spokes. A thorough cleansing and lubing and new cables and that and the bike could go as it is. I'd put wider tires but that could be a problem with the fenders. Also old brakes like those can be weak, so that could prove a necessary change.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T18:52:32.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-09T22:42:19.677" Score="1" ViewCount="7543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building my own fixie (almost a cliche, sorry) and I debating whether or not to buy chain tensioners.  I will be riding my bike with a fixed gear most of the time.  One of the reasons I ask is because I see a lot of fixies without them.  So I was wondering whether or not I really needed them.  Personal preference is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19026" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T13:25:14.193" Title="Does my fixie need a chain tensioner" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29914" CreationDate="2015-04-09T22:51:07.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need a chain tensioner (by this, you presumably mean something like the Surly Tuggnut and not a pulley which will snap on a fixie). This article from &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/10/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-with-lennard-zinn-fixie-chain-tension-and-nipples-threads_195847&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lennard Zinn&lt;/a&gt; (or equivalently, the one he cites from &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;) covers how to tension your chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T22:51:07.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-10T05:00:36.813" Score="3" ViewCount="1506" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drive-side dropout and rear axle have broken twice. It's an old-style freewheel, not a freehub+cassette. (I weigh around 100kg, and ride a lot, and have been touring on hilly, gravel roads, with 15kg camping gear on the rack.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is an old (20-25 yo) hybrid Malvern Star (model &quot;Elite&quot;), steel frame, with 5 cogs on the back, and a freewheel. About 2-3 years ago, the drive side dropout broke, along with the rear axle (QR). I got new dropouts welded in, and the QR axle replaced with a solid bolt up (for $172 AUD).&#xA;They told me the axle &quot;wouldn't beak&quot;. After a year or so, the rear axle broke again (which the LBS replaced). Then, about 6 months after that, the drive-side dropout broke again (&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; near the chain stay) - not the weld, but the dropout itself, next to the weld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride everywhere, and did several wilderness touring trips during that time. They were &quot;on-road&quot;, but hilly, gravel roads (Bunyip State Park), and sometimes they're corrugated, sometimes water eroded, and ther were some tree roots on a rail-trail once, which I (mostly) manage to avoid. I wouldn't think they'd stress the bike that much, and wheel rims are perfectly OK - even though single-walled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LBS said it's because the freewheel stresses the axle, and when it breaks, the angle of the axle stresses the dropout, causing it to break in turn. They said it's the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; cause of the break, and would not happen with a freehub and cassette. Researching online, I see the freewheel design does stress the axle. The guy now maintaining Sheldon's site agrees that that's how dropouts break; a couple of source only say it &quot;can&quot; break dropouts - but most don't mention an effect on dropouts at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the freewheel why my drive-side dropout keeps breaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a freehub + cassette really &quot;solve&quot; this problem, or would it keep happening? I want to go on longer tours, and don't want to get stranded!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Many thanks for reading all this! :-)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tyres&lt;/strong&gt;: Schwalbe endurance, 26x1.50, inflated to 100psi (which they are rated to). Supposedly somewhat puncture resistant; but I got one on every tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;dropouts&lt;/strong&gt;: The replacements were forged dropouts (originals were pressed dropouts). It looks pretty strong to me, it's about 4mm where it broke, and about 7mm where the bolt goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;hubs&lt;/strong&gt;: after second broken axle, LBS noted slight pitting on the hub where the ball bearings run. Wheels are &quot;Joytech&quot;, new about 5 years ago. They were the cheapest ones ($80 AUD, IIRC), single alloy rims. They look very well made (to me). The rear was a QR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19028" LastEditorUserId="19028" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T21:37:31.470" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T21:37:31.470" Title="What causes frames to break at the (rear) dropouts?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;axle&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-10T08:53:33.707" Score="1" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;Completely new to biking, and am considering purchasing a decent road bike that'll be comportable for 25 mile outings. Came across a used &quot;KHS Aero Turbo&quot; for 325 bucks. It looks like a nice bike, but like I said, I have no experience or frame of reference for what qualifies as a decent bike. Could anyone help me out in regards to if this is worth the money, or perhaps what other brands/makes to look out for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19031" LastEditorUserId="18977" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T12:58:24.473" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T12:58:24.473" Title="Beginner bicyclist question about purchasing a new road bike" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29919" CreationDate="2015-04-10T08:58:54.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to cycling. 325 bucks is really not too much for a complete bike (you'll understand this better later on). So, go for it as long as the sizing is correct for you. If you are not sure about sizing, take the bike to an LBS and have them do a (paid) assesment and fit in case you buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T08:58:54.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29919" CreationDate="2015-04-10T09:41:12.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=1999&amp;amp;brand=KHS&amp;amp;model=Aero+Turbo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;information about the bike&lt;/a&gt;. According to that page, that model hasn't been made since 1999 and had an original sticker price of $799. So it's at least 16 years old. Depending on what condition it's in and if any parts have been replaced or upgraded, I'd try to get the seller to bring the price down a little. That being said, it actually looks to be a pretty good bike and will be fine for 25 mile, or longer rides, as long as it fits you well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T09:41:12.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29923" CreationDate="2015-04-10T10:54:58.920" Score="2" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a good method for finding a bike which matches my riding style, body measurements and bank account size when not able to actually go and try the given candidate bike model(s) in-person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my particular case, I live in a corner of the world where the type of bikes carried by almost all dealers (large and small) are in no way what I want: I want something akin to a classic &quot;randonneuring&quot; bike, but there is only one shop which &quot;carries&quot; anything close to that-- the shop has a single Kona Honky Tonk, and their solution would be to e.g. add fenders, racks, etc. Perhaps this is in fact a good solution, but I would like to have more than one available to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Manufacturers/models&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I can do research on the Internet to find appropriate manufacturers/models (e.g. Kona, Surly, Salsa), but I would need to actually &lt;em&gt;get&lt;/em&gt; one of these bikes, and they don't always deliver (I am outside the US, and it's even harder to find local brands which make similar bikes because everyone wants a bike suitable either for Grandma or for Lance Armstrong despite still riding in their Lycra more slowly than I can walk in ski boots).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fit/sizing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even after finding a potential choice for me, how can I even know if it fits me?-- I'm not a freak or anything (180cm and ~67kg), but I do know how differently even different road bikes &quot;feel&quot;, and so the idea of ordering a bike online sounds like a bad idea to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Maintenance/repair&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although many bike components are more or less standardized to some extent, might I still not need to get some components which are &quot;exotic&quot; to my location, given that the bikes themselves are not sold here?-- having to mail-order a replacement for something which broke unexpectedly would be a tad annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there a reasonable non-local solution here for me, or might the best solution to simply be to do as the Romans do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8685" LastEditorUserId="8685" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T11:42:05.317" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T18:04:39.587" Title="How to &quot;shop&quot; for bikes via mail order" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29922" CreationDate="2015-04-10T11:37:28.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a serious conversation with your local bike shop(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do your research, identify what you want, and ask them to do a bike fitting and order the correct size for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to encourage them to invest in you while you invest in them. They may want a deposit up front. But if you can convince them to get what you want, you have started a relationship, and can expect benefits such as service when you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just buy from mail order or the internet, then when you have a problem that you cannot solve, you'll be stuck. Shops can be a little less helpful when they know the online origin of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first shop wont do it try the next, and play one against the other. If there's only one shop then work on your relationship with them before you &quot;pop the question&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW your weight and height are similar to mine - not unusual - but arms / legs / body sizes differ so do get a proper fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T11:37:28.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29914" CreationDate="2015-04-10T13:25:14.193" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an elliptical bottom bracket you won't need a tensioner. Ditto for dropouts that allow horizontal movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are very lucky even a vertical dropout frame won't need a tensioner but as chains stretch over time this probably won't hold true for long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the chain is too short you will have parts of the crank rotation that are very stiff. When the chain is too long it risks coming off and jamming the wheel causing a dangerous skid. In this case a chain tensioner (which could be an old junk derailleur) is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8656" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T13:25:14.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29922" CreationDate="2015-04-10T17:08:57.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Competitive Cyclist has a lot of information on fitting your bike including an interactive measurement calculator.  - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more in depth fit guide is here.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/11/knee-pain/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/11/knee-pain/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Educating yourself is important, but you probably need to have a good foundation in being mechanically inclined to go &quot;shopless&quot; but there's a lot of information out here on the web that can help. Resources like manufacturer web sites and if you google &quot;Sheldon Brown&quot; you'll be able to learn a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reputable online dealers will have return guarantees, though it might be a hassle. Two international sites include Chain Reaction cycles, which in my experience has been exellent to deal with, and Wiggle.com which has been horrible. These two UK based retailers won't have some of the things US customers are used to, such as tracking a shipment, duty fees calculated up front, and exact delivery times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you do it yourself and buy online, or go to an LBS you should fully educate yourself. Read trade press mags, and start discussions on MTBR.com. Either way, nobody will look out for you like you. Shops are the same either online or local. There are good ones and bad ones. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19034" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T17:08:57.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4504" CreationDate="2015-04-10T17:12:22.943" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upgrading crankset gives you several benefits.  It performs better.  It is lighter.  It looks way better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19036" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T17:12:22.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29918" CreationDate="2015-04-10T18:30:34.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You already more or less answered your own question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that in a freewheel hub the drive side bearing is close to the center of the axle. This gives the forces from your weight and pedaling much more leverage to bend the axle than on a Shimano-style freehub where the drive side bearing is located at the end of the axle. When the axle bends, it twists the dropout, which can also break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other brands of freehubs solve the axle bending problem with a thick oversized axle. This could work with a freewheel hub too, but I am not aware of anyone who makes that kind of hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T18:30:34.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29918" CreationDate="2015-04-10T18:39:39.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of dropout did you have welded back in your frame when you had it repaired?  A higher quality dropout might be in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T18:39:39.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4504" CreationDate="2015-04-10T18:41:37.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A higher end crank might have better quality materials for it's chainrings and hence the chainrings might last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T18:41:37.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2015-04-10T18:51:34.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in the seventies and eighties it wasn't uncommon to remove the inner chainring from bikes used on flat time trials to save weight.  Often the chain length was set intentionally on the long side to reduce friction, which had the undesirable side effect of making it easier to rop the chain.  At the same time it was generally considered to be a good idea to NOT remove the front derailler and to use it as a chain keeper.  I believe this is mentioned in the Eddy B. book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you need to put the front derailleur back on your bike as a chain keeper.  You probably don't need the shifter/cable, etc. just use the limit screws to keep it in a position where it doesn't rub the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T18:51:34.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9213" CreationDate="2015-04-10T19:43:15.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion it's a fallacy to believe that a city bike should have thin tires and in fact if you look at bikes that are specifically marketed as city bikes (and don't aim at the hipster single speed crowd) they often come with quite wide tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wide tires offer much more dampening and the difference in rolling resistance is much smaller than once believed. Since city roads and bike lanes often aren't very smooth this means a considerable plus in comfort at virtually no cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me slightly modified MTBs make perfect city/allround bikes and as far as tires go I personally love Continental Town &amp;amp; Country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15828" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T19:43:15.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-10T20:36:21.933" Score="0" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have an old Marin Bobcat Trail MTB with 26&quot; wheels. I want to make a road bike out of it&lt;/strong&gt;, and don't want to spend a bunch of money. I just want to be able to go fast and coast for awhile, so I don't have to crunch around on my Talus 29er. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also ~230lbs and 6'6&quot;. I used to blow tires like crazy on that bike. Am I going to be struggling with that same issue with the tiny road tires??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to post pictures of the transformation. I just need pointers on how to RE-USE what I have on the bike, minus buying new a wheelset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19037" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T15:35:31.997" Title="Help altering old Marin MTB to an In-town pavement cruiser?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29937" CreationDate="2015-04-10T21:00:31.023" Score="0" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 6'6&quot; but have very short arms for my height. Many guys 6'0&quot;-6'2&quot; will outreach me if standing flat footed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an XL frame, 2014 Raleigh Talus 29er comp. I feel great on it, but I feel like I'm constantly 'reaching' forward for the handlebars when just sitting and pedalling around the neighborhood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some things I can do to be more comfortable on my frame? Do I need to raise my handlebars higher, or get a shorter stem??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks from an awkwardly built guy! haha&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19037" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T22:22:48.927" Title="Help me setup my bike to my weird size?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;29er&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29933" CreationDate="2015-04-10T21:30:18.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There really isn't much required to make a MTB into a formidable city bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious thing is to change tires. But I wouldn't actually recommend to go for something skinny just something not knobby. Skinny tires offer very little advantage but absorb a lot less of the bumps encountered in city driving which makes them less comfortable and put the wheels under more stress. Just find some nice (semi-)slick tires and you should be good to go (I just posted my preference in another answer and would feel like over-advertising if I mentioned my personally preferred make and model ;-)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may think about adding bar ends which offer an extra position for your hands which is quite comfortable on longer rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most other things are personal preference or at least depend on how you're actually going to use the bike. Depending on your speeds you might want to look into larger chain rings for more top end and, since you're a tall guy, possibly longer crank arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to think about: lights (hub dynamo vs battery), racks, mud guards, lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15828" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T21:30:18.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29918" CreationDate="2015-04-10T22:06:43.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the rear hub is defective, or (at least for the first incident) was improperly assembled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cone lock nuts on the axle are not set tight enough, it's possible (especially with a slightly bad or poorly lubricated bearing) for the (probably right) cone nut to be pulled tighter and tighter until either the bearing seizes or the axle snaps from the strain.  When this happens all heck will break loose, and it's easy to believe there could be some collateral damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once this has happened the first time, the hub (if not defective before) has likely been distorted to the point that it's almost certain to happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say you need to replace the hub.  If not, it at least needs to be carefully inspected for damage, and the person assembling it needs to be doubly careful to get the lock nuts tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T22:06:43.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29934" CreationDate="2015-04-10T22:22:48.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stems come in a wide range of lengths (45-130mm), and they are generally fairly cheap (starting around $20, and generally around $50).  It is very easy to remove the existing stem and install a different one.  So I think it is worthwhile to get the shortest reasonable-looking stem you can find and give that a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raising the handlebars is not so easy, other than by getting a different stem.  Unless there are spacers above your stem on the steerer (the part of the fork that the stem is attached to), in which case it is extremely easy to remove the stem, move the spacer below the stem, and reinstall the stem.  It is fairly rare that a bike is sold with extra spacers above the stem.  Beware: Sometimes there is a small (5mm) spacer above the stem that has to stay there; its purpose is to prevent the steerer cap from touching the steerer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of raising the handlebars would be getting different handlebars with more rise built into them -- generally the bars would be horizontal in the center, then bend up at an angle, and then flatten out to horizontal at the grips.  I don't think this would help much, because the amount of rise you get out of these bars is usually not very large, maybe an inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is something else to consider: I'm 6'5&quot;, and for years I was riding a mountain bike that was too small for me, because it was the biggest frame that I could easily find in my price range back when I bough the bike.  I got quite used to this bike, so when I finally got a new bike with a larger frame, I felt quite stretched out when reaching for then handlebars.  Eventually I got used to that and I doesn't cause any problems even on long rides. But if you've had this bike for several years and it still bugs you, then you should probably get a short stem and see if that makes it feel better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T22:22:48.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-10T23:41:33.453" Score="0" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 20 inch BMX bike. It was given to me with no stickers or identifying marks on it. How do I tell the difference between brands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19038" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T20:50:31.660" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T18:13:23.583" Title="How do I tell the difference between bike brands" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29951" CreationDate="2015-04-11T09:24:01.460" Score="1" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed during a ride that the back wheel was giving me unpleasant up-down kicks (sort of like a weight was added on a section of the rim). I realised later that it had maybe 2-3 mm of left right wobble but the about of up down movement doesn't seem too significant (I should mention that I can only do visual inspections). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this up-down kerk be caused by that left-right uneveness? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15877" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T19:36:17.897" Title="Can an untrue wheel cause up down jerks?" Tags="&lt;wheel-truing&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-11T10:38:39.230" Score="1" ViewCount="14135" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter has sparkle and glitz 12 inch bike with stabilizers (training wheels). Since we purchased the bike every now and again the back wheel keeps spinning when she is pedaling. This seems to happen more when there is a bit of an incline.  Any suggestions what problem could be?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19039" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T01:30:37.837" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T15:08:16.073" Title="Children's bike problem with back wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-11T12:00:11.987" Score="1" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;This really makes me curious, Lezyne Stainless-20 has a separate tool -- tire lever (however I don't see clearly on pictures how it looks like). The specification of Stainless-12 does not list tire level, but judging how the chain tool looks like it seems it could be used as tire level (unofficialy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So maybe I rephrase my question to be more precise -- did anyone &lt;strong&gt;successfully&lt;/strong&gt; (without breaking/bending the tool and cracking the rim, etc) use the handle of chain tool (of Stainless-12, lower brother) as tire lever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Once again:&lt;/strong&gt; I am asking about version -12, not -20!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Just to avoid any misunderstanding -- Lezyne chain tool handle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nj5Ah.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastEditorUserId="2146" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T13:12:13.960" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T14:05:49.680" Title="Can Lezyne Stainless-12 chain tool handle be used as tire lever?" Tags="&lt;tire-lever&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29349" CreationDate="2015-04-11T12:14:41.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you never understand frame condition by smell :). Aluminum and its alloys are great materials, but they could be destroyed by aggressive liquids (salt, acids etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the lowest frame corners (usually here manufacturers make little holes, to let water out). If you able open it and try to look inside or check by hands. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That's all. Actually this is the best you can do. Wash inside the frame, and put on fresh air to make it dry (may be put up side down - water or wash component will flow out fast). Ensure you are using non-aggressive liquid (wait-spirit, warm water with wash chemical).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Store in dry place.&#xA;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19040" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T04:25:18.140" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T04:25:18.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29941" CreationDate="2015-04-11T14:05:49.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on lezyne's site specs, that 12 tool is not meant to be used as a tire lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say, having had a lot of experience using make-shift tire-levers while on the job as a bike messenger, that it would damage your rim, and cause aggressive wear to the tire sidewall (leading to side-wall blowout).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Save yourself the $20-80 in tires, and the $100+ in a rim/wheel. Buy some Pedros from your nearest bike shop.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pedros.com/products/tools/wheel-and-tire/tire-levers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pedros.com/products/tools/wheel-and-tire/tire-levers/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lezyne.com/product-mtools-stainlesstools.php#.VSkorJFVhBd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lezyne.com/product-mtools-stainlesstools.php#.VSkorJFVhBd&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 style:&#xA;&quot;TOOL BITS:&#xA;    Hex 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8mm      Star Shaped T25&#xA;    Phillips-Head       Chain Breaker: (9/10/11 speed)&#xA;    Spoke Wrenches: Mavic Mtv, 3.22, 3.45&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: They explicitly list the 20 as having a tire lever, which is clearly a different tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18996" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T14:05:49.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25987" CreationDate="2015-04-11T17:04:17.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some entrance level Shimano hydraulic brakes (bl-m445; br-m445) and while trying to bleed them, I accidentally overtightened the bleed nipple thus resulting in the threads being busted. I put some teflon tape on it and reinstalled it in the caliper, then resorted to burping the system. Although it took a while (max 15 mins) I managed to get from something where the lever could easily touch the handlebar to a firm, airless system that feels like a brand new, quality bled brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say that by removing the brakes from the bike, putting in a bleed spacer and attaching the lever to something so that the reservoir oil is leveled (with the caliper hanging down), using a bit of tapping on the line, caliper and lever can give just as good a result as a bleed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19042" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T16:12:30.760" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T16:12:30.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13682" CreationDate="2015-04-11T17:17:09.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a ring lock that is attached to the frame to lock the rear wheel to the frame. As it is a relatively cheap second hand bike (€200 4 years back) that is how it is locked unless left for a long time or in a dangerous place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I lock properly, the long cable lock will go through the front wheel, through a smallish hole or loop of a fixed object and either around the bar of the middle of the bike or through any of the 'loops' that the frame of the bike has. As I expect bike thieves to be mostly opportunists (where and when I park) I expect two locks to be enough in most or all occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend, who owns a much more expensive 'bent bike, uses a better lock but basically uses the same method. The hard lock is on the bike itself, it is the expensive cable that holds the bike in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In places where I would not trust that kind of locking, I would not leave my bike. All locks only slow the thieves, never stop them. Ratings should give 'minutes' or even 'seconds' delay. And then, even the best locks can be dealt with in seconds if the 'right' tools are used.&#xA;If I had to lock my bike with an U shaped lock, I would try to get the front of the bike to the fixed object, so the lock goes about the bar between front and back as well as around the fixed point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locking the trike is even less a problem but more of an annoyance. As I had an insurance on it, I had to use a heavy chain, other approved locks did not fit the trike. With that chain I can fix one of the 'loops' of the frame, one rear wheel and a fixed spot. I still have a cable lock for the trike, which I can use to lock both rear wheels to the frame and to a fixed point, or I can use it for the front of the trike. But the frame of the trike has all kinds of 'loops' that make locking it easier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike Batavus Relaxx: &lt;a href=&quot;http://hpv.popol.eu/pix/relaxx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hpv.popol.eu/pix/relaxx.jpg&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;Trike looks very much like a Sun EZ3USX: &lt;a href=&quot;http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/6278/3190/1600/EZ3%20USX.4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/6278/3190/1600/EZ3%20USX.4.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am living in the Netherlands where bike thieves are almost as common as bikes but most thefts are done to get to places on the 'borrowed' bike. Having an uncommon bike is a help there, thieves will not know how to ride it and it will stand out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T17:17:09.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29947" CreationDate="2015-04-11T17:32:32.307" Score="2" ViewCount="7126" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning I heard the tube in the rear tire explode (I never heard a tube explode before. It was quite loud).&#xA;I hope someone can shed some light on why this may have happened (and how to prevent it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bike was inside a house and nobody had touched it for 12 hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a road bike. The tire says pressure should be between 90 and 125 PSI, and just yesterday I inflated it to 110 PSI and after that went for a ride just fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tube was very new, it had only 4-5 days.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tube has a small hole is one of the sides. The tire has a little crack on that spot. It is very thin and about 0.5cm (0.2 inches) long. The rim seems fine. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tire was still in place, it did not come off of the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two weeks ago it happened with another fairly new tube. That time I didn't hear the explosion, but one morning I found the tire deflated without explanation. Both tubes have the hole in exactly the same place, so I guess the cause is related.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 minutes before it exploded, I opened a door-window next to it, so the temperature dropped a bit suddenly. However, I'm in California so the temperature is very mild. It's not cold at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bike is in the sun during the day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19043" LastEditorUserId="19043" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T18:01:35.323" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T13:42:59.830" Title="Relatively new tube exploded by itself without any external force" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29946" CreationDate="2015-04-11T17:55:00.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bang explode pretty much only happens when the tube leaks out from tire.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either the slit is big enough for the tube to push through or the tire pushed over the rim and the tube leaks out.  Without a tire a tube will only handle a few pounds of pressure. I suspect the tire belt is damaged.  When you see the tire off the rim you might assume the explosion blew the tire off the rim but most likely the tire came off the rim and then the tube exploded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T22:43:39.727" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T22:43:39.727" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29938" CreationDate="2015-04-11T18:13:50.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically you can't tell the difference between most BMX &quot;brands&quot; as all of them made in china (exclude of aluminum BMX that are pretty expensive and therefor pretty rare).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The major difference in BMX bikes is quality of their bearings, spokes etc. - things that you can't see.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The only thing you can check (and it is very important to do) is the assembly of the bike. The pedal axle and the fork must be tightened well. If there is play in them, it says that it's assembly wasn't professional (or it was ridden much, if the bike is old). To save the bike in good condition for long time, it's have to be set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="7999" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T18:13:23.583" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T18:13:23.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23793" CreationDate="2015-04-11T18:25:02.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, the greatest compatibility issues are with the shifting. I've ran into issues with my conversion. The V-brakes can actually work with the road wheels and brifters, but you have to have trued wheels and a very small gap between the brake pads and the wheels. This makes it so that you also cant use the brake release for the V-brakes unless you file the little nipple down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a shimano mountain front derailleur, it won't work well with the brifters. I have 2 rings up front and use the 3 speed left shifter. There is a half step, but I can still shift between the 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the frame on the hybrid was made for a flat bar, you'll have to use a shorter stem and reach on the dropbar to bring you back a little bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all that, it works great! &#xA;I have a super light schwinn frame with ultegra 6600 components throughout, except the V-brakes of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19045" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T18:25:02.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-11T19:27:08.390" Score="0" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for recommend. Tire pressure for a 26in MTN bike. Im around 185lbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am fixing my bike up, and I want to make sure not to over inflate as I do not want to blow a tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19046" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T19:27:08.390" Title="Recommended Tire pressure" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-04-11T20:54:01.563" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29939" CreationDate="2015-04-11T19:36:17.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  It's possible.  Newly laced wheels often have &quot;flat spots&quot; where the rim is out of round.  Generally you round and dish the wheel before you start trueing it.  It's possible that the wheel has a flat spot that you are feeling.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are another possibilities to include bad tyre mounting, improperly secured wheel (axle), bad tyre and assorted drive train issues.  It may be best to have a mechanic or experienced home maintainer check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T19:36:17.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-11T20:31:59.963" Score="2" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;When googling the types it seemed to most closely match a Atom/Regina but it has &lt;s&gt;25&lt;/s&gt; 24 teeth and is about 3.5cm across. It's from a 1980s Raleigh road bike. But the bike has had a lot of work done to it so this part might not be original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/thpNs.png&quot; alt=&quot;Unidentified freewheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19047" LastEditorUserId="19047" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T21:51:12.627" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T21:51:12.627" Title="Can anyone identify this freewheel type?" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-11T20:37:23.170" Score="1" ViewCount="921" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a bike with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/gear/product/2015.giant.connect.seatpost/583/62028/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alloy seat post&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/2013.giant.xtc.composite.2/11895/56865/#overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;carbon frame&lt;/a&gt; need a seat post clamp with two bolts? Most clamps these days seem to be either quick release or single bolt. Is that safe to use with my set up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read a little around the subject and not found any definitive answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TDlOx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;giant seat clamp and bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T22:02:02.587" Title="Does a carbon frame need two-bolt seat clamp?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;clamp&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29940" CreationDate="2015-04-11T21:05:39.703" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stabilizers are taking too much weight. This can happen if they are mounted too low, or she is leaning too much and transferring weight off the rear wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first problem is easily fixed - the bike should lean slightly to one side or the other. When its held upright with all the weight on the back wheel, the stabilizers should be about 1-2cm off the ground (Higher for rough ground).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is teaching her not to lean on the stabilizers. This can take some time and effort, especially with younger children. It is well worth investing time now to teach her to ride upright than later, when she has learned bad habits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regret using stabilizers on my boys bike. I now believe they hinder progress as the kids get used to them, and prevent them learning proper cornering (as the bike cannot lean). They probably cause as many crashes as they saved with my boys. If I did it again, I would buy a balance bike, (or remove the pedals and cranks) and get them balanced, then add the pedals.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T21:05:39.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29953" CreationDate="2015-04-11T22:02:02.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On carbon frames I've used, they have had a single bolt clamp like this one, so it should be fine. Personally, I'd like to use a slightly bigger clamp and one of those rubber size-decreasing rings to avoid cracking the frame. If in doubt I'd phone up the manufacturer of the frame and ask!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19048" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T22:02:02.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29838" CreationDate="2015-04-11T22:10:35.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A trick that not many people believe but works amazingly is to try and tighten a bolt/nut, or in this case BB before trying to loosen it, and repeating if necessary. I assume this works as it breaks down corrosion or dirt, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19048" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T22:10:35.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29718" CreationDate="2015-04-11T22:19:04.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest a reasonably standard MTB tire simply because a fat tire will have insane rolling resistance that isn't the nicest thing in the world. Any tire that has been rated decent for cornering would be good, because washing out isn't really that nice at all. Or at least a tire that 'gives' a bit, sliding in a corner slightly is much better than instant mud sample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19048" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T22:19:04.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29517" CreationDate="2015-04-12T02:11:37.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say she is at fault. Here is why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since she was driving a car and you were dragged for some distance after the collision it appears she was traveling at a higher speed and thus was from behind. The responsibility typically falls on the one from behind. Even if the contact wasn't on your rear it sounds a lot like rear-ender.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A bike lane is a &lt;strong&gt;lane&lt;/strong&gt; of traffic and has the same rights as other forms of traffic. Yes, @Willeke is correct this is poor street design, but this is not your fault. You were traveling straight and the car was the one initiating a turn and it was her responsibility to pay attention necessary to complete that turn safely. Yes, perhaps you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; of paid some attention too, I hate it, but I watch out constantly for cars doing bad things. Convincing others that those who done did the bad things are at fault will be the hard part, as there is a contention that bicycles are toys not destined for the roads. But, this is not what the law says. Please fight for your (and our) rights.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Harm done. Sadly the United States does seem to have law or the general mentality to structure things this way, but I think those wielding a deadly force (like a car) have a responsibility to those more vulnerable like pedestrians and those on bikes. You may be able to use this very valid point to garner some compassion, but your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2839" LastEditorUserId="2839" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T19:38:47.173" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T19:38:47.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29967" CreationDate="2015-04-12T09:18:53.233" Score="1" ViewCount="2384" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a bike shop I recently asked for bottom brackets. The seller said, when choosing a Hollowtech II bottom bracket (like SM-BB70), compared to Octalink/square taper bottom brackets the outer (lateral) sides of the frame should be milled to be even. When they're not even I'll risk that the bearings will waer out too fast. He said even paint remainders are not allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My frame is 7005 aluminium alloy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12607" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T22:17:25.740" Title="Shimano Hollowtech II bottom bracket: milling the frame necessary?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29997" CreationDate="2015-04-12T20:41:30.503" Score="0" ViewCount="80335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm almost done assembling my new bike :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is still one thing in the way though... See the headset in the picture? It was installed by a professional (or, at least a LBS owner) when I bought the frame. Kinda came preinstalled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After assembling the bike, I went back to the shop to have the headset adjusted. And somehow they couldn't get the thing set up properly. I tried too, and yeah, let's face it, that headset is probably bad or badly installed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O8Ilz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;XLC A51AN headset&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As is, the bike is pretty much unrideable since the fork would wobble every time I brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is an Intec M1, see document page 6. &#xA;It has a 1&quot; 1/8 fork tube. &#xA;The current headset is a XLC A51AN. I guess it's an external headset, but not really sure. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.intec-bikes.de/index.php?eID=tx_nawsecuredl&amp;amp;u=0&amp;amp;file=fileadmin/Downloads/SecureDownloads/ra-co/ALLE/Sortiment/INTEC/INTEC_Katalog_2015_EN.pdf&amp;amp;t=1428962756&amp;amp;hash=d367558de1db3f45634191e466256d126c14beca&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.intec-bikes.de/index.php?eID=tx_nawsecuredl&amp;amp;u=0&amp;amp;file=fileadmin/Downloads/SecureDownloads/ra-co/ALLE/Sortiment/INTEC/INTEC_Katalog_2015_EN.pdf&amp;amp;t=1428962756&amp;amp;hash=d367558de1db3f45634191e466256d126c14beca&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are enough spacers, allowing to tighten the top cap really hard, hard enough to almost lock the steering. Even then, the fork still wobbles. The fork tube is not cut straight, but I'm pretty sure the tube never touches the top cap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are my options to fix that? (not involving yet another LBS)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What could explain why we can't adjust it? Can I fix this headset?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;otherwise, which tools would I need to replace the headset with another? And what kind of headset do I need?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also would I need to change the &quot;fork race&quot; (referring to the piece attached to the bottom of the fork tube, correct?) if I were to fit a different headset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastEditorUserId="8322" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T10:58:22.273" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T10:24:22.703" Title="Headset fully tightened, but fork still loose and wobbly" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-04-20T00:09:36.507" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-12T22:44:14.743" Score="1" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am installing them on a very rare BMX frame.the bottom  bracket shell measures 66mm.I believe I'm looking for a spindle length of approximately 110mm.it also has to have English threads.my question to you campy gurus as what part number am I looking for or combinations of measurements that I can shop for? also any leaves and or ideas on exactly what I'm trying to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19058" LastEditorUserId="19058" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T22:51:11.193" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:26:25.243" Title="Campagnolo 1973 strata cranks(BMX) help" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-12T23:58:24.473" Score="0" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need shifters for a 16 speed bicycle. When shifters are advertised as 2x8 is this referring to a bicycle with 2 sprockets in the front and 8 in the back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19059" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T06:19:26.877" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T06:19:26.877" Title="How do I determine what kind of replacement shifters I need?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29964" CreationDate="2015-04-13T00:48:48.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that 2x8 refers to 8 speed cassette or freewheel and a crank with 2 speeds. The one that can be confusing is 18speed which can be an older 3x6 or a more modern 2x9. The other concerns is mountain or road drivetrain and Shimano, Sram or Campagnolo  compatible. You can search this site for compatibility questions that may match your specific circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T00:54:17.000" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T00:54:17.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24614" CreationDate="2015-04-13T05:47:54.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally, I've built a bike using rims in question and rode humble 50 km. Here's my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Putting Schwalbe One Tubeless was tough as hell, I had to lube everything with dishwashing liquid to drop enough traction, tires sit very tight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire doesn't blow off at 100 psi. I didn't pump more that that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes two weeks for non-sealed tire to lose all air. With a scoop of Stan's it takes about three days to drop from 80 psi to 60 psi. I don't know how hooked clincher would affect this, duration probably depends on other factors as well (tape, tires condition, sealant).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Riding bad quality asphalt didn't seem to affect wheels at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be pretty similar to my UST ready Sunringle Black Flag wheelset combined with non-UST tires running tubeless. Unfortunately, I can't compare same model rims in same conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; in the following two months I didn't experience any trouble with wheels whatsoever. Tires seem to lose air less quicky than before, but this is very subjective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T02:48:15.157" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T02:48:15.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29959" CreationDate="2015-04-13T06:02:26.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term for preparing the bottom bracket shell in this manner is called &lt;strong&gt;facing&lt;/strong&gt;, and yes, it is necessary for all outboard bearing bottom brackets for proper function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand why this is, lets compare a hollowtech type system to a square taper cartridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the square taper, all the bearings and rotating portions are contained into a rigid metal casing, which is then screwed into one side of the bottom bracket shell, and a cup is threaded into the other side to hold the metal casing in place. If the bottom bracket shell's surfaces aren't perfectly flat to each other, it just means that the casing will be just a tiny little bit crooked with respect to the shell's optimal placement. However, all the bearings will be spinning around perfectly in the metal casing. At worst case, if the shell is very poor, there can be a little play between the casing and the cup, and the bottom bracket will creak when you pedal. An annoying problem of its own, but the bearings will be just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, with a hollowtech system, the two bearings aren't held together by the rigid metal casing. If the bottom bracket shell isn't faced properly, the two bearings won't exactly line up. Then, when you try to adjust the bottom bracket, one portion of the bearings will be too loose or too tight, and as the crank spins around the bearings will alternate between too loose or too tight, rather than being just right all the time. This will wear the bearings out faster and drag somewhat compared to a proper installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now with all that said, it's not like the BB is going to spontaneously explode if you don't face it properly, you'll just wear the bearings out faster. If you already have a crankset laying around and you don't put a ton of miles on the bike, it might not really matter in the long run, but only you can decide that for yourself. If the frame is 20 years old, I would expect you to have a square taper crank on it already, and so there really isn't any benefit to switching to a hollowtech setup, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T06:02:26.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30055" CreationDate="2015-04-13T07:52:37.233" Score="2" ViewCount="236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bough a 2nd handed road bike recently. The seller said that the pedal could work as both platform pedal and clipless pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it true? If yes, which system of clipless shoes can it work with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wRpJa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T16:54:36.157" Title="Is this a clipless pedal?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;pedals-clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29963" CreationDate="2015-04-13T10:31:15.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are going to struggle a bit with this one unless you can find the correct BB of that vintage, which is a big ask insofar as Campagnolo didn't make a huge number of these cranks to start with and information on them, even at the factory (with whom we are very closely connected) is very thin on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem that you will have is that the square taper used on the inside of the cranks was neither an ISO standard or a JIS, as at the time these standards didn't really exist - all manufacturers, campagnolo included, used proprietory, in-house standards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 degree taper angle was generall standardised but the starting square size and the length of the taper was not - so it was recognised by mechanics and assemblers at the time that some crank / BB axle cominations were a &quot;go&quot; and some were a &quot;no go&quot; and that the best thing to do to be sure of not only a good taper match, but also, consequently, a good chain line, was to use the crank manufacturer's matching BB set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mismatch, the consequences are generally cracked cranks, either because the area bearing the load is not enough (happens with accurately made ISO cranks on JIS axles) or the crank migrates too far up the tapers so the crank bottoms out on the taper, and in some cases splits as the fixing bolt pushes it hard against the shoulder of the taper which is curved. Much less commonaly and in some ways less seriously - but just as useless - the taper can emerge out through the opening square of the crank so the crank bolt bottoms against the end of the BB axle before it's washer comes into contact with the inside of the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the axle length in your case looks to be around 110, I'd guess it's actually 109 (Campag Pista type, look for BB axle 120-PP-68 and use a 1mm shim under the matching Pista fixed cup) or you could &quot;try&quot; the current Pista BB (which still uses the Campagnolo proprietary tapers) or finally, some of the last generation of &quot;FAG&quot; style BBs, the AC-H and AC-S 111 mm BBs might do the trick. All would need a spacer or two to account for the 66mm BB width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've sent a query to our colleagues at the Campagnolo factory with regard to this but I would be surprised if the information can be easily dug out of their archive ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH&#xA;Graeme&#xA;Velotech Cycling Ltd&#xA;Campagnolo Main UK Technical and Service Centre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:26:25.243" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:26:25.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2015-04-13T13:02:48.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride with 4 panniers and try to put slightly more weight forward than aft, to ease the load on the rear wheel. You need to get comfortable with the extra weight on the front wheel, but I did not find this difficult. Prior to putting more weight front than aft, I was blowing spokes &amp;amp; wearing my rear tire excessively. As stated elsewhere, you need to balance left &amp;amp; right, both fwd and aft, and keep heavier objects low in the bags. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19065" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T13:02:48.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29973" CreationDate="2015-04-13T16:14:41.947" Score="0" ViewCount="15511" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 20 inch folder has a single chain ring of 56T and a 11-28T cassette, 9 speed Shimano sora 9 speed Rear Derailleur &lt;strong&gt;short cage&lt;/strong&gt;. I want to change the cassette to 12-36T for some hill routes. Based on my understanding the Derailleur capacity needed is &#xA;biggest chain ring - smallest chain ring + (biggest cog - smallest cog) &#xA;= 56 - 56 + (36 - 12) = 24.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure the capacity of the short cage Sora 9 speed, because different source gave different info. And they all assume a double or triple crank set which is not the case here. So will my RD support a 12-36T cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17275" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2019-07-28T13:53:23.930" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T13:53:23.930" Title="Can a Sora 9 speed rear derailleur short cage support a 12-36 cassette single chain ring 56T?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29971" CreationDate="2015-04-13T17:30:20.003" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-sora-9-speed-short-cage-rear-derailleur/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, the tooth capacity of the short cage version is 31 teeth. But let's look at a road bike with a relatively small gear range. you're likely to find. Filling in your formula, we end up with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;52-39 + (23 - 12) = 24&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the smallest cage derailleur would most likely cover that range.  52-39 is a standard road double crankset, and although there are smaller cassettes, they are quite uncommon. I would say that just about any derailleur could cover a 24 tooth range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T17:30:20.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29971" CreationDate="2015-04-13T18:47:00.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really. &#xA;A current short cage Sora derailleur (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/road/sora/product.-code-RD-3500-SS.-type-.rd_road.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RD-3500-SS&lt;/a&gt;) has the total capacity (i.e., 37 &gt; 24), but &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;does not support&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; a maximum sprocket over 32.  While the Sora short cage derailleur should be able it can take up the chain slack, the top jockey wheel may not properly clear the 36 tooth sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7264/how-to-calculate-the-capacity-of-a-rear-derailleur&quot;&gt;How to calculate the capacity of a rear derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T18:53:34.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29971" CreationDate="2015-04-13T18:47:57.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, with a 36T, you want a long cage (Shimano SGS), such as a Deore rear derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the capacity calculation you've done says OK, the max sprocket for a short cage road will be in the 20's or low 30's (in this case, its &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/components/road/sora/product.-code-RD-3500-SS.-type-.rd_road.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;listed as 32t&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, I'd buy a long cage RD (or at least medium cage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T18:47:57.573" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29977" CreationDate="2015-04-13T18:53:32.027" Score="0" ViewCount="1017" Body="&lt;p&gt;After years of use and multiple retightenings my crank will fall off my bike about once a week and definitely needs to be replaced. I believe that the square hole of the crank has expanded to the point where it can no longer get a tight grab on the bottom bracket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether I should replace the bottom bracket when I replace the crank given that it's bearings are still good. Is it possible that BB spindle deformity is also part of the reason the crank is falling or is it probable the spindle is fine and I just need to replace the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the bb spindle looks fine .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19067" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T02:37:54.070" Title="Crank fell off square taper BB. Should I replace bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14261" CreationDate="2015-04-13T19:24:20.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I still like these rims very much and purchased another set (A23 OC's) just a couple months ago. They feel like my old racing wheels with the 4000S's.  I have made a few minor changes to tire mounting.  I use thinner wider tape especially with OC's and I find the worst it gets is when you start the last 18 inches over the rim.  For the next few inches I use an 'iron' keeping close tabs on the tube to prevent a pinch. Thank goodness I can get the last foot or so on with my fingers and less chance of a rim pinch. Of course I do all the other usual stuff like keeping the beads squeezed to the center and not letting the valve rubber cause difficulty. I usually check around the tire between the bead and rim for pinches when on the road.  When changing tires at home and not in a ditch I inflate halfway, deflate to let the tube clear with the tire not beaded, than run it up to 115. After 30 some years of this I still find the tube gets sneaky on me sometimes, such is life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19068" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T19:24:20.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29975" CreationDate="2015-04-13T19:25:22.663" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without seeing any pictures, I think you'll likely want to replace both, but you can figure it out easily enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, the bottom bracket will be fine after a crank improperly coming loose. The bottom bracket spindle is typically made out of a hard steel and only the most miserable metal cranks are made from anything other than aluminum, so when the crank gets loose, the aluminum gets wrecked and the steel axle stays ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it sounds like you've caused this to happen several times, so you may have managed to round the axle as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have had many years of use of this bike so far, I think it would be worth it to just cough up 15-25 bucks for a new square taper BB in addition to a new crank and not have to think about it anymore. Your existing BB might be getting worn out already and so you can kill two birds with one stone. You can read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-service-cartridge-type&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Park Tool guide to BB servicing&quot;&gt;the Park Tool guide&lt;/a&gt; to cartridge BB servicing. If the bearings are getting worn with age, then it makes this whole ordeal a no-brainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you put your new cranks on your existing bottom bracket, and you pay &lt;strong&gt;very close attention&lt;/strong&gt; to whether it's getting loose or not, you'd probably be fine in determining if the existing bottom is fine, and if it does get a little bit loose, replace the BB immediately and your new cranks should be fine. Do be careful because if they get so loose they come off, you could possibly damage your new cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately it boils down to whether to pay 15-25 bucks up front, or gamble the price of your replacement cranks that they won't come loose. Only you can decide that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="7844" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T02:37:54.070" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T02:37:54.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29952" CreationDate="2015-04-13T20:30:07.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clarification - I count 24 slots for a 24 spline removal tool, and not 25 as you state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jumping off from there I suspect you may have a Normandy/Maillard freewheel which takes a Bicycle Research Tools CT-3 24 spline freewheel removal tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link to tool: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycletool.com/normandymaillardfreewheeltool.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicycletool.com/normandymaillardfreewheeltool.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to the Bikeforums thread that lead me to the above link to the biketools website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/604233-freewheel-removal-tool-older-simplex-design.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/604233-freewheel-removal-tool-older-simplex-design.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18416" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T20:30:07.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29986" CreationDate="2015-04-13T21:18:23.540" Score="8" ViewCount="4572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live close enough to work that I'm able to bike there and back every day. I also pack a laptop in a backpack. I am seeking ways to reduce the weight on my back. I've only seen people use saddlebags on a bicycle 1-2 times my entire life so I'm looking for advice. Has anyone tried to pack a laptop in a saddlebag before and how did that turn out? What are common issues/features I should look for in a saddlebag? I can only think of two things to look for at the moment: 1) impact resistance (not crushing my laptop) and 2) water proof if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12852" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T12:48:56.113" Title="Saddlebag Laptop advice" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29971" CreationDate="2015-04-13T21:43:51.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While using a Sora with a 36t cog may not be &quot;approved&quot; by Shimano, it's at least worth trying. The real problem is getting clearance on the large cog, not the capacity of the derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This clearance is generally adjusted using the B screw derailleur adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#btension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#btension&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not able to use current derailleur with it's maximum B screw setting,&#xA;what you can try is getting a longer version of that B screw and putting the&#xA;derailluer even farther out. As a temporary hack to see if this is worthwhile,&#xA;you can put a small spacer in between the end of the B screw and the spot where&#xA;it rests on the derailluer hanger cage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will at least let you know if it is possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reasonably sure that if the derailleur can work with a 32t cog, you can probably tweak it enough to work with a 36t cog. If you absolutely can't make this work, then get a &#xA;&quot;short cage&quot; Deore MTB 9 speed derailleur. It has a long enough parallelogram and sufficent B screw adjustment to work with a 36t cog.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need the long cage version of a derailleur. You just need one with a sufficiently long parallelogram. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T21:52:13.350" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T21:52:13.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29980" CreationDate="2015-04-13T22:03:37.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't carried a laptop in a saddle bag but I have used them a fair amount.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can definitely find a waterproof saddle bag that will carry a laptop.  If your commute is smooth (i.e. pavement) your laptop should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things to consider when choosing a saddle bag:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Ease of removal/attachment.  Unless you are going to leave it on all the time, this could become a factor in quality of commuting life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Heel clearance.  Depending on your position, shoe size and rear rack you want to make sure your heel isn't going to hit the saddle bag.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18992" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T22:03:37.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29980" CreationDate="2015-04-13T22:24:24.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are good bike bags for lap tops.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Need water proof, padding, and solid mounting.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mount and unmount rapidly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also consider how it carries off the bike.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does it look like a brief case so you can use it like a brief case during the day.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To deal with length on the front wheel can help - that is how I carry.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't like putting out a names but like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortleib.com/_prod.php?lang=en&amp;amp;produkt=officebag_bnw&amp;amp;biketoy=cityoffice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Otlierb Office.&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as damaging it takes a bit of shock to break a lap top.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The vibration on a bike is not likely to harm a lap top hard drive.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have dropped lap top hard drives on the floor and not broken them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One thing is power it all the way down (not snooze) so the drive is parked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pack tends to be soft so it will conform to your back.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have lost a couple screens due to the flex.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think a semi rigid bike bag is better than a pack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quality of the laptop is a big factor&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Look for a laptop with a metal case&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Soft plastic will bend and hard plastic will crack&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cheap hinges will wear out&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I used to do lap top repair   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T12:48:56.113" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T12:48:56.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29987" CreationDate="2015-04-13T22:33:44.560" Score="0" ViewCount="1325" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im not exactly down with the terms used in MTB, I have recently bought a new bike. It was within my price range and its great for riding on the road and forest trails. Its a &quot;Carrera Hellcat II Limited Edition&quot; 29er. Its got 100mm of travel (front suspension only) So i was wondering if this bike would be any good for doing some mountain biking trails. I know of one near to where i live. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone could shed light on this i would be very thankful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am 6ft and weigh approximately 165lbs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, Jack!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19071" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:13:44.653" Title="Is the bike i'm using right for Mountain Biking?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29980" CreationDate="2015-04-13T23:11:20.953" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have carried a laptop on my commute bike for closing in on 15 years now. Mainly in panniers (saddle bags). For a little while in a courier bag when when I was young and dumb. For what it is worth (aka the dangers of anecdotal evidence) I didn't have any laptop failures directly related to a bike trip.  I even toured with a 17inch laptop across 800 km of mixed terrain (road and dirt) in Norway with out incident (riding to a workshop and conference).  That laptop is still going strong 5 years later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Waterproof pannier.&lt;/strong&gt;  Water is the enemy of most electronics. So is dust.  It pays to be able to keep things very well sealed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Well padded case.&lt;/strong&gt; I used to use a well padded sleeve to house the computer and moved to a pannier with a built in padding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strong mounting.&lt;/strong&gt; Not all bags are created equal.  Get ones that have rigid re-inforced back plate and strong mounting system. You don't want the bag flopping around.  Cheap panniers can sometimes twist into the spokes which will likely result in damage to your laptop during the ensuing carnage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strong pannier rack&lt;/strong&gt;.  As a corollary to (3) if you have a cheap flexible rack this could also cause problems, but I haven't personally had any problems across a variety of rack types. Some racks also support panniers against twisting better than other racks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Back it up just in case...&lt;/strong&gt;  This is really good advice regardless of transportation method.  I always keep at least two backups going, one in the office and one at home (offsite).  I once came into my office to observe my desk under water.  If I had left my laptop there I would have lost it and the backup sitting on the desk. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other Deep thoughts...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always wondered about the impact of vibration, but so far I haven't seen any clear indication (warning anecdotal evidence).   I had one hard drive die spontaneously while working on a report. Perhaps vibration shortened its life?  It it was also very hot that day and I was without air conditioning and I was running some simulations so the temperature could have fried it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also had a lust for well built laptops, which may have stood up better.  I am a hipster poser so you can guess which brand of computer I have continually purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:11:20.953" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29985" CreationDate="2015-04-13T23:11:36.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the component specs, its an entry level MTB, one better than a BSO. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;80% of mountain biking is about the rider and his skills, not the bike. Shops won't tell you this, as telling you your riding skills matter most does not end in a sale of a newer season/more expensive bike.  Cashed up middle aged execs won't either - many just want you to see how much money they have to spend on toys and cannot ride to save themselves - a lighter/faster/more forgiving bike hides the lack of skill. Competitive riders care what they ride - they have expensive bikes because 1/2 a second here and there makes a difference to them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it will let you down is weight (Makes it harder to accelerate and not as fast up hills), front forks (Likely to have poor rebound control and bounce a lot - pogo sticks) and gear shifts will not be fast and crisp.  Picking the right gears early will be critical to having fun, as will picking good lines in corners.  The forks mean you will not have room for cornering mistakes and will probably have to enter corners slower than other.  Being a hard tail, you will need better skills to ride fast, as they are less forgiving of mistakes than a softtail.  It will also need more maintenance and tuning than a better bike, and probably wear out faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as trails you can ride - if the trail requires air time, the bike is not great. It would be OK on trail that can be ridden without having to do jumps, but is better suited to XC style trails rather than all mountain or down hill.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, you won't break it any quicker than a better bike, so go out and have as much fun as you can on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:11:36.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29985" CreationDate="2015-04-13T23:13:44.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just looking over the specs (having not heard of the brand before here in the US), I'd say what you have is a decent entry level bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the Suntour XCM-DS forks on there I'd probably avoid doing any jumps. I'f I'm right, it looks like the fork has adjustable pre-load; if so make sure to tighten it up enough to keep it from bottoming out, if not you may want a to get a different fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For light entry level trail riding I don't see why it wouldn't work. Also, if the photo on the halfords site is accurate, you may want to think about getting some tires with more grip. Just be sure to keep the mechanical disk brakes adjusted &amp;amp; have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:13:44.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7133" CreationDate="2015-04-14T04:18:01.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a trailer for my bicycle...&#xA;Without the trailer I average 19 mph. The difference between adding the third wheel and 20~40 lbs is about 2~5 mph. Just keep everything lubed and tuned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also steel frames are more springy/comfortable than aluminium as they absorb more of the bumps etc in the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference is in the rims. Spinning the rims is what takes the most effort -- gaining angular momentum. Also the quality of your hubs and more importantly the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you get going or are bombing down a hill cutting through the wind is what slows you down, so pick a headset style the lets you sit up AND hunkerdown while breathing comfortably (I like pursuit bars and drop bars). It's important to be able to stretch out and expand your lungs fully while gripping your handle bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19073" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T04:18:01.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2015-04-14T06:27:50.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, all these answers involve modifying the bike or your clothing, or purchasing unique equipment; which is not what I was willing to do. I was looking for a quick instant fix, and in reading these responses I came up with one. I grabbed my odd sock bag, [ the one I keep for sox that come out of the dryer without a mate ] picked a particularly worn item, cut it where there was a hole, forming an open ended tube which I slipped over the area of my pants where the grease stains occur. The sock was long enough so I doubled it over the vulnerable surface. When I reached my destination I slipped it down off the cuff of my pants and hid it just below my calf, and hopped off the bike. I forgot it was there and almost forgot to put it back on for the return trip. I was concerned that the grease would soak through. It actually held so tight against my leg that it did not even get any grease on it!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19075" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T06:27:50.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-14T07:56:59.317" Score="2" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm not really looking for any legal advice here, more looking for pointers to articles or whatever covering these topics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year I was involved in a road crash whilst riding to work (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.portsmouth.co.uk/news/local/cyclist-suffers-head-injuries-in-curdridge-road-crash-1-6189785&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;linky&lt;/a&gt;). I'm mostly OK now. I am, however, hitting a brick wall when it comes to the insurance company. They are trying to avoid liability and are now seeking some form of contributory neligence on my part on the grounds I was cycling too fast. So my questions are:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could they really succeed with that argument?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any previous case where this was used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it mean anything to other cyclists in a similar situation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they succeed, would that imply a &quot;safe speed&quot; for cyclists?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine how they could prove I was going too fast. The car I hit had just overtaken me and wasn't that far ahead of me. Needless to say I have no memory of the crash but I am familar with that stretch of road and there isn't much distance in which to overtake and pull away any significant distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do understand that as I'm in the UK it does make this country specific but it would be interesting to hear how this is dealt with in other countries (just remember to mention this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2279" LastEditorUserId="2279" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T15:09:44.667" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T19:14:23.807" Title="Cycling too Fast" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="19" ClosedDate="2015-04-17T14:53:24.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10695" CreationDate="2015-04-14T12:11:35.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mostly pedal up the climbs or hills only seated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But recently I have tried using the highest gear before the climb. And wow the results are fantastic for me. I climbed not only faster but easier or so it seemed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I got off the bike I felt that my legs were taxed very much and there was a slight bend in my knees from the fatigue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19082" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T22:44:56.273" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T22:44:56.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29962" CreationDate="2015-04-14T15:48:35.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention the stem in your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tighten the topcap bolt without loosening the stem clamp, you won't be preloading the headset; instead you'll be crushing the spacers between the step and topcap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T15:48:35.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29991" CreationDate="2015-04-14T16:09:04.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bikes were the first rubber wheeled vehicles on the road, they're even the reason why paved roads were first layed. I've been pulled over by police while riding my bike here in Canada. They straight up told me that the same rules apply for bikes as they do for cars. Those include speed limits and traffic laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know UK laws, but I wouldn't expect to get anything out of rear ending a vehicle on my bike, because they would have had the right of way, if the same situation had happened here, I would be considered to be the party at fault, and therefore would be liable for the damages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the speed claim, as long as you were doing the posted speed limit, then they shouldn't be able to touch you with that one, unless there's a different limit for cyclists in the UK. In response to their claim that you may have been exceeding whatever limit they claim you were, all you have to say is, &quot;Prove it.&quot; They will then be required to launch an investigation to determine how fast your were going based on impact forces, which is determined by examining the damage sustained by the vehicle, and you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation though, I'd consider myself extremely luck if I got anything out of this, because like I said, when you get into an accident on your bike on the road, they treat you like another vehicle, so you need to think about the whole situation as if you had been in a car. Had you been going the same speed and been in the same situation while driving a car, then what would you expect the outcome to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;After reading the comments and learning more about the pileup being caused by an oncoming vehicle, the only thing I think you could possibly be found guilty of is not maintaining a safe following distance. Obviously the oncoming vehicle is at fault, you should feel lucky that the car overtaking you softened the blow, had you been the one that hit the other car head on, chances are you wouldn't have woken up in the hospital at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T16:30:27.873" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T16:30:27.873" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29962" CreationDate="2015-04-14T16:31:06.210" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wobbling could come from the fork. This is easy to check by putting a finger between two parts of the headset (as you can see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjX53M5ysmo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, around 0:35 ). If you brake and feel movement, problem is for sure on the headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do, is the headset the correct size, BOTH for the frame and for the tube? And are they in good shape? These parts have low tolerances because they have to fit the frame and the fork tube very tightly, and different manufacturers have slight different dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, go to your usual shop and ask them to test with another one headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck. And until you fix it, please don't ride that bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T16:31:06.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2015-04-14T16:42:02.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pedaling while stand up is not something you should or should not do. It is harder for your body because it increases heart rate, but gives you instant power and is even necessary for some obstacles of technical climbs on MTB. Sometimes you need to go over that rock, sometimes you don't have the time to shift and just want to accelerate right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every bike should be able to sustain pedaling while standing simply because it is part of going for a bike ride, road or mountain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing you should keep in mind is that you should avoid shifting while pedaling hard, and this is true both standing or sitting down. Even so sometimes you're on a sprint with a friend and you just want to win it and that's ok. Think of it as revving a car. You should avoid it but sometimes you need that instant power and a well maintained car should always cope with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T16:42:02.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6238" CreationDate="2015-04-14T17:31:58.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree with most of what has been said here.&#xA;A full suspension bike is more comfortable, rides better, is easier for your body&#xA;on longer rides and it is just better than hardtails in pretty much everything. For example, if you take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/mountain-bike/videos/the-best-52min-from-uci-mtb-trials-world-championships/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTB XC World Cup&lt;/a&gt; you will see a lot of pros riding a full suspension, and keep in mind that even though their only aim is to have the fastest bike possible to win, you see full suspension bikes, so they are effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also disagree with the price tags. There are good, cheap full suspension bikes, as you can see &lt;a href=&quot;http://pastebin.com/Z9fpTELa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (I can't post more than 2 links :-( ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only situation where I understand someone riding a hardtail on MTB is if you have more fun in it, in which case, man go for it. Even though I highly recommend you trying both before buying anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside I see on a full suspension for MTB use is that these frames and rear shocks require maintenance, but you won't need to sell a kidney on the yearly&#xA;ride to the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T17:31:58.003" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29962" CreationDate="2015-04-14T17:42:56.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;See Emyr's answer above. In a threadless headset (which is what is shown in the picture), the stem is what keeps the fork compressed into the head tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make sure the stem is holding the fork in correctly, loosen the bolts that hold the stem to the steer tube of the fork.  Then tighten the cap on top of the steer tube.  You have to make sure the cap is pushing down on the rings around the steer tube, not the steer tube itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now tighten the bolts on the stem around the steer tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can test the fork is installed by holding the front brake and rocking the bike back and forth.  If the fork is in there tight, you won't feel it move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2456" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T17:42:56.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30015" CreationDate="2015-04-14T18:27:08.370" Score="4" ViewCount="3119" Body="&lt;p&gt;could you please list a COMPLETE list of required tools to assemble a road bike? I purchased a shimano 105 group set and a Chinese carbon road bike frame with a fork. I'd like to put together my first bike and having this list would eliminate a lot of potential frustration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional: toolset suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frame&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&amp;amp;alt=web&amp;amp;id=171304286297&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&amp;amp;alt=web&amp;amp;id=171304286297&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Group set&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Shimano 105 5800 Groupset 34/50 Chainset &amp;amp; 12/25 Cassette&#xA;Shimano 105 CS-5800 Road Bike Cassette - 12-25 / 11 Speed&#xA;Shimano Ultegra 6800 Bottom Bracket - Black / English (BSA)&#xA;Shimano 105 5800 CNHG600 Road Bike Chain&#xA;Shimano 105 BR-5800 Road Bike Brake Callipers - Black - Pair&#xA;Shimano 105 FD-5800 Road Bike Front Derailleur - Black - Black / Braze On&#xA;Shimano 105 RD-5800 Road Bike Rear Derailleur - Black - Black / Short Cage SS&#xA;Shimano 105 ST-5800 Road Bike Gear Levers - Black&#xA;Shimano 105 FC-5800 Road Bike Chainset - Black - Black / 172.5mm / 34/50 / 11 Speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14166" LastEditorUserId="14166" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T18:50:53.440" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T09:12:07.567" Title="Road bike assembly - required tools" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30003" CreationDate="2015-04-14T18:40:45.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tools will be dependent on the standards of the bike. A overview would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bike stand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grease&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carbon paste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;torque wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Headset&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tools to chase and face head tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bearing press&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crown race setting tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steerer cutter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drive Train&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tool to chase and face bb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bb bearing press or bb spanner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain breaker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cassette tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cable cutters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cable stretchers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hex wrenches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;torx wrenches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crankset preload tool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;screwdrivers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T19:38:12.173" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T19:38:12.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30003" CreationDate="2015-04-14T18:43:03.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Individually tools are expensive.  And some (very) expensive tools you would only use once or a few times are not worth buying.  Like Park or Pedros and buy a kit.  It seems like a lot but $200 - $400 is a good starter kit.  Then just fill in with specialty tools or pay to have the work done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too many people don't use a torque wrench but with nice bikes you need one.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You will see shop people not use them but they know a lot of the torque by hand.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T19:03:14.707" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T19:03:14.707" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29991" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:14:23.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might find some useful advice here &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.eta.co.uk/cycling-and-the-law/#LAWFAQ11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ETA Cycle Insurance&lt;/a&gt; however, as mentioned by some commentators this is no substitute for expert legal advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can cyclists be booked for speeding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists can’t be booked for speeding, but might be fined for ‘cycling furiously’ or ‘riding furiously’ which is an offence under the 1847 Town Police Clauses Act. However, cyclists can be convicted for ‘wanton and furious driving’ under the Offences Against the Person Act 1861 (as amended by the Criminal Justice Act 1948 (c. 58), s. 1(2)) if they cause bodily harm to any person. They are then guilty of a misdemeanour and could, at the discretion of the court, be imprisoned for up to two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to see somebody prove you were &amp;quot;riding furiously&amp;quot;! What a strange concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, too, that insurance companies make profits by trying to avoid paying out claims, so this is often just standard procedure by them. Stick to your guns, and good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10538" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T19:14:23.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30003" CreationDate="2015-04-14T19:44:51.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The COMPLETE set will likely cost more than 3x the cost of your frame and parts. The tool to prepare a bottom bracket is almost 500 bucks all by itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm not going to answer &quot;the COMPLETE set&quot;, especially because your copy/paste wall of text doesn't indicate all of the exact specifications for all your parts, which is needed to know exactly which tool is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get one of the bike Park Tool or similar kits, primarily for home maintenance. Then, get the Park Tool blue book, or some other book, to read so you know what you are doing when installing stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, take it to the shop for the elements you can't really do for cheap (frame preparation), or see if any LBS has a public shop option, as Kibbee mentioned in the comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T19:44:51.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-14T20:32:37.417" Score="1" ViewCount="2206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a bike expert so I'm not sure if I'm using the proper terminology here. So I bought a used city bike. It's the first time I see such gear and such a bike actually. It looks almost like this bike: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fahrrad.de/kreidler-vp2-schwarz-glanz-385180.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fahrrad.de/kreidler-vp2-schwarz-glanz-385180.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there is only a single issue with the bike. The speed switcher only changes from speed 1 to speed 2. I can't change to higher speeds and I don't know what the problem is. When I try to switch to 3 for example the switcher doesn't allow me to, so maximum is speed 2. I went to a bike shop, the guy seemed to be not knowledgeable at all. He said the problem could be from the switcher itself and it would cost 10 Euros to replace it, but it could also be the entire gear is broken and that would cost 200 euros!!! It felt that he wanted to ripe me so he wasn't really willing to tell me what the real problem is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how to find out which part is broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the images for the switcher and the gear itself. And I would highly appreciate it if someone knew what the issue might be so he can also mention the name of the broken part so I can order it online!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nsItJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kIeau.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iHOWE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T00:24:21.070" Title="How to check if the gear shifter or the gear itself is broken?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6270" CreationDate="2015-04-14T20:44:44.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I miss the solution I used most of my life, the enclosed bike chain.&#xA;Specially fixed gear/single gear bikes as well as internal hub gear bikes are suitable for that solution. Best if done already by the manufacturer of the bikes but after sales covers do exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current bike is a recumbent with a half chain cover (for a normal bike) and tubes for those parts the clothing is most likely to touch. Not the perfect solution, just one tiny spot that is not covered and just there the trousers can caught around the end of the cover or can reach around that end to the chain itself. So now I use a mix of all the options mentioned here, just because I can not alter the bike (now at least) but I find it a poor second to what I am used to on my sit up bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T20:52:53.750" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T20:52:53.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30008" CreationDate="2015-04-15T00:24:21.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This does not answer your question, but it's too long for comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt; take it to another bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Details&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an internally geared hub (IGH). I cannot tell what make it is; the ones I know of are Sturmey Archer, Shimano Nexus and Alfine, and SRAM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole bike has been left to molder - the chain has rust, and the tires are flat. The chain should be fine with some oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is - why was it left to molder, and why was it sold? My guess is because of the gear problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See if you can identify the brand or make. Someone might be able to help more if you can tell them that. Once you know that, you can also look for a bike shop that knows about those particular hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IGH's can stop working for fairly trivial reasons, and often the new parts are not very expensive. The main cost is the mechanic's time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you could DIY, the fact that you asked the question suggests that that's not a realistic option for you. There is no guarantee that after taking your first IGH apart you'll be able to put it together again. There are lots of springs and pawls and bearings and gears in there ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T00:24:21.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-15T03:05:00.790" Score="7" ViewCount="4624" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the light is red and there are cars in a line. Since bicycles ride on the very right do we go ahead to the stop light or stay behind the cars? I live in British Columbia, Canada. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19087" LastEditorUserId="6726" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T14:57:12.080" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T00:39:14.387" Title="Road positioning when stopping at an intersection with stationary traffic" Tags="&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30011" CreationDate="2015-04-15T04:34:44.800" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm from BC, you have the option of taking the centre of the lane and waiting like a vehicle, or you can stay to the right if there is room (at least 1.5m or 5ft). If you stay to the right, basically you ride in an imaginary bike lane if there isn't one painted on the road, so you ride all the way up to the light on the right hand side of a line of cars at a red light. I do this pretty much every single day on my way home from work. Some intersections even have a button for cyclists to push, like the kind pedestrians push when they want to cross, but for cyclists waiting at the intersection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RUphS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you stop however, do not stop &lt;em&gt;beside&lt;/em&gt; the car at the front to the line, you never want to be in a vehicles blind spot. Pull up just ahead of it and make eye contact with the driver so he knows you're there. If the first car in line is signalling to turn right, then stop just behind them and wait for them to turn in front of you before proceeding to the front of the line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motorists are supposed to shoulder check when turning right at intersections to check for cyclists, but it's my experience that most motorists don't even know that bikes are allowed to ride on the road, so always drive defensively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bclaws.ca/EPLibraries/bclaws_new/document/ID/freeside/96318_05#section183&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rights and Duties of Cycle Operators - Section 183 Motor Vehicle Act&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bclaws.ca/EPLibraries/bclaws_new/document/ID/freeside/96318_05#section158&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Passing on the Right - Section 158 Motor Vehicle Act&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesense.bc.ca/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The British Columbia Bicycle Operator's Manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T20:22:05.857" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T20:22:05.857" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30020" CreationDate="2015-04-15T06:56:23.133" Score="0" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;One time I hear someone said, with satisfaction, that his aero wheels sound awesome. I wonder where does the noise come from, is it because you ride so fast the pushed air makes the noise or is it just noise of carbon fairing vibration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T18:10:32.307" Title="Where does aero wheels noise come from?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30017" CreationDate="2015-04-15T08:49:58.597" Score="1" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently riding a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fuji/sportif-15-2014-road-bike-ec055667&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fuji Sportif 1.5&lt;/a&gt; with original configuration. I am not using clipless pedals currently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike come with 50/34T chainrings and a 9-speed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&amp;amp;KB=34,50&amp;amp;RZ=11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28,32&amp;amp;UF=2115&amp;amp;TF=85&amp;amp;SL=2&amp;amp;UN=KMH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;11-32T cassette&lt;/a&gt;. I noticed that most of the time I am using only 16-24T. Sometimes with 28T for climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, I am considering to switch to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&amp;amp;KB=34,50&amp;amp;RZ=13,14,15,16,17,18,19,21,23&amp;amp;UF=2115&amp;amp;TF=85&amp;amp;SL=2&amp;amp;UN=KMH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;13-23T&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&amp;amp;KB=34,50&amp;amp;RZ=12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25&amp;amp;UF=2115&amp;amp;TF=85&amp;amp;SL=2&amp;amp;UN=KMH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;12-25T&lt;/a&gt; cassette. However, I am a newbie and do not have experience of switching cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are my thoughts correct? Moreover, are there other issues that I have missed? For example, compatibility with my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastEditorUserId="18867" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T10:11:22.373" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:37:33.187" Title="Should I switch to a 13-23T or 12-25T cassette?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30003" CreationDate="2015-04-15T09:12:07.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've built pretty similar bike recently (5800 groupset, chinese frame), here's the list of tools used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-14Nm torque wrench with a set of hex heads. Without it you might crush carbon fiber parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hex keys set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phillips screwdriver. Used only for derailleur adjustment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom bracket tool that came with SM-BB6800. If you didn't get one, make sure you buy compatible model and not Hollowtech II specific, these BB have different tool interface.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette lockring tool. Try to get one with either hex key slot or handle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotary tool. Because I didn't have anything better to cut cable housing and cables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjusting wrench. Used only to hold lockring tool because it didn't have hex key slot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carbon fibre paste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hacksaw and 32 tpi blade. You'll have to cut fork steerer and maybe seatpost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hacksaw guide.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain tool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic quick release ratchet clamps to hold stuff tightly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest are optional, but nice to have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike stand. If you don't have it, there are various ways to fix bike in place, but I just hung it from shelve using a pair of leather belts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bench vice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the ultimate target is to build the bike, no matter what tools used. I suggest to make a list of what you have to do, choose suitable tool depending on the budget and only then proceed with purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and you totally won't need these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom bracket pressing tool - BSA BB just srews in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset facing and pressing tools - that frame has integrated cups, just drop bearings into cups.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crown race setting tool - tapered fork crown races usually have a cut that allows to put them on with bare hands or some basic tubing (like toilet paper roll).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T09:12:07.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-15T10:26:14.200" Score="0" ViewCount="1097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some Fox Float 32 Evolution 140mm travel forks on my 2015 giant trance. I ride very aggressively and it's a bumpy ride down a lot of the tracks I do. Keep in mind I do technical tracks, over roots, drops etc.&#xA;Today I rode a bike with 150mm pikes and I didn't feel a thing at all. &#xA;I'm wondering if getting kashima coat on my forks would:&#xA;1. Make them less bumpy (smoother)?&#xA;2. How much would it cost?&#xA;3. Would it just be more worth saving up for some pikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to ask questions! Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17234" LastEditorUserId="17234" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T20:15:14.467" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T07:07:44.717" Title="Kashima coat or not?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30014" CreationDate="2015-04-15T12:38:27.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should work. Put a new chain on.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New chain as a worn chain will wear the cassette as it is stretched and does not match up.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the chain is severely worn it may even jump.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain is cheaper and should be replaced unless it is almost new.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A cassette will typically last 2-3 chains.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sometimes use 28 then why are you giving that up?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is a closer gearing really worth giving up the range?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Why not like a 12-27T?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T17:37:33.187" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:37:33.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30021" CreationDate="2015-04-15T17:02:41.060" Score="0" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;The videos I saw so far show that with the same lever you can brake or change gears. OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But can you do it in the same time? For example you downshifting, lever is pressed down, can you start braking (pulling lever) without letting it go up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or in reverse, you are braking, you pulled lever already, can you also push it down without releasing the pull (braking)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I have in mind MTB DC levers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:17:12.100" Title="Can you brake and operate gears at the same time with MTB Dual Control levers?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30016" CreationDate="2015-04-15T17:08:34.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your sag is set correctly. See fork manual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a zip-tie on your fork leg to act as a max-travel gauge, it lets you see how far from bottoming out you were on any ride and will aid you with tuning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play with the compression/rebound settings on your current fork. If ride is too harsh, reduce both.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are unable to smooth out the ride, or it is at the expense of a wallowy ride, have them serviced (new oil, seals as needed etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid large-bill outlays on the current fork while saving up for a better fork in case you can't improve the ride enough. You fork (and bike) will have some resale value, but putting money into it won't increase the resale value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T18:55:45.543" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T18:55:45.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30013" CreationDate="2015-04-15T17:14:33.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon wheels will have a different sound die to handling vibrations differently than aluminum. Has nothing to do with aerodynamics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:14:33.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30018" CreationDate="2015-04-15T17:17:12.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes.  That was a complaint about the setup from many riders that often your would accidentally shift while trying to break.  The problem is worse when you are trying to brake while the front end is jumping all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a friend with the setup on a Kona Stinky Primo back in the day and I tried it on one shuttle run.  I decided it definitely was not for me.  I was told you can get used to it enough that the instance of accidental shifts is close to zero, but I am not sure I bought into that theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:17:12.100" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30011" CreationDate="2015-04-15T17:20:47.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on whether there is a bike lane or not. In Canada, a bicycle is legally a vehicle, and unless you have a clear lane which you are permitted to use, you are required to wait behind the other vehicles. Note that a paved shoulder (pavement to the right of the white line) is not a bike lane when not clearly marked as one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:20:47.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6238" CreationDate="2015-04-15T17:37:07.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on your fitness, back strength and duration of your rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You choose the Hardtail (front suspension) if you want the fastest ride, and you are able to stand up on the most bumpy sections, including bumpy sections that are flat or slightly downhill, where you benefit from pedaling. The hardtail will be lighter, and more stiff and efficient at transferring power when you stand up on the climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You choose the full suspension if you either are not super strong in your back, or you plan on going for very long epic endurance rides. It will be faster on flat and downhill parts of the trail too. On my local singletrail, the record time was ridden was on a full suspension with remote lockout for both front and rear (you flick a lever on the handlebar to lock both front and rear suspension, making it more effective on climbs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, a full suspension bike will normally cost more than a similar-quality hardtail - if they cost the same you are either getting a very good deal or the full-suspension bike is of lower quality. As well, low-end full suspension bikes can be a horrible experience, so if you are purchasing your first or a budget bike, this would point in the direction of a hardtail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T18:52:36.547" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T18:52:36.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2015-04-15T17:57:08.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good answers above. Most likely a worn sprocket, but could also be that your B-tension on the rear deraileur is insufficient, causing the chain to not wrap as far around the cassette cogs as it should, which would make the problem worse. Increasing B-tension will cause the deraileur's guide pulley to come closer to the cassette, thereby engaging more chain on the cassette cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:57:08.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7610" CreationDate="2015-04-15T18:35:20.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you actually want to run tubeless, since you mention sealant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may depend on which rim you have. Actual Tubless or tubeless-ready? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of tubeless-ready rims are the popular line of Stan's rims. They have a special design they call socket-beat tech, which will grip a non-UST tyre better than a standard rim, to resist burping etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have good experience with Stan's rims and conti tyres all the way from the flimsy Twister 1.9&quot; Supersonic, Race King 2.0 Supersonic, Race King 2.0 Race Sport and X-King 2.2&quot; Protection. All worked well, not with extremely low pressures, but with much lower pressure than I needed to avoid pinchflats with tubes, and with much better grip as a result. I'm about 70Kg and run around 28-35PSI most of the time (although down to 25psi was possible with the 2.2&quot;'s). Lower pressure than that would result in a wallowy feeling through fast corners, and the occasional burp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your rim is actual UST-spec tubeless, it may not grip the non-UST tyre as well, resulting in some issues. I'd say give it a try and see how it goes, since you have the tires and sealant already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T18:35:20.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29349" CreationDate="2015-04-15T18:46:31.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You haven't said what the frame material is, but if steel obviously yes. Aluminum (and carbon) not so much, but it will add weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in any case it will pose a danger to your bottom bracket. Water will eventually seep past seals and into the bearings, leaving you with a stuck or severely degraded bottom bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem could be water getting into the frame somewhere, most likely at the seatpost, and not having a drain hole. It is very difficult to prevent water entry entirely, and this is why many bicycle frames do have a drainhole in the bottom bracket shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would do this: Remove the crank and bottom bracket. If you have a cable guide underneath the bottom bracket, leave that in place and look for an unused hole - frames that do have a drain hole will usually have it co-located with this unused hole in the cable guide. Now, mark that spot, remove the cable guide and drill a 4-5mm diameter hole. Reassemble everything and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T18:46:31.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21619" CreationDate="2015-04-15T18:57:37.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check and see if your cranks can move side-to-side. You might need to loosen the left crankark, push it on all the way and re-tighten. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T18:57:37.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29049" CreationDate="2015-04-15T19:06:29.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't count on it, no. Low-end and touring forks may not have the parts available at all. With medium-to-high end MTB forks, the parts may be available but it often requires exchanging most of the innards, making it a much too costly proposition. It in not just a matter of adding a lever to the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T19:06:29.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25525" CreationDate="2015-04-15T19:20:24.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have it backwards. You seem to think pro bike teams are looking to purchase frames from suppliers, and all the supplier needs to do is offer a decent discount. It's the other way around - most pro-tour bike teams require payment from the supplier if they are to display decals, and needless to say the gear will have to be supplied without cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will often see a rider on a certain team has insisted on bringing his favorite saddle, which will then have all decals and logs removed if the supplier doesn't want to pay, or the team already has a primary supplier for that part. You will also see them removing logos from tubular tires made specifically for the cobbles, where most the big-shop tire sponsors do not have a suitable tire. As well, you may even see a team using old frames from a competing brand for a cobble stage where the current frame sponsor did not supply a suitable frame - in this case, the frame will either be rebranded or have branding removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I think the lack of diversity you see is more a fault of the sport and the economics of it, not the fault of niche frame manufactures. Big high-revenue bike companies can afford to bet on multiple teams, while betting on one team may be a too risky proposition for a niche player (especially a team they can afford to sponsor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T19:20:24.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23950" CreationDate="2015-04-15T19:25:01.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have already backed the B-tension screw all the way out, I believe your B-tension spring has simply lost its tension. Mine is the same way. I know that spring is replaceable in some derailleurs, and checking whether it is in this one is on my list of things to do. Check with your local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T19:25:01.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-15T20:00:08.977" Score="2" ViewCount="23565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a tire 26 X 1.5 what size tube should I buy for it?  As yet I have not tried tubes because I don't know what size to buy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19094" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T23:42:30.580" Title="inner tube to fit in a 26 X 1.5 bicycle tire" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30032" CreationDate="2015-04-15T20:12:52.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should say on the package at the store what the size is. If you have a 26 x 1.5in tire, you will just want to make sure the tube you buy overlaps the 1.5in. For example, it may say 26&quot; x 1.5&quot; to 2&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also want to make sure you get a tube with the proper kind of valve. Either Presta or Schrader. Look at the valve on tube you already have, if it looks the same as the valve on a car tire, it is a schrader. If it is all metal with a lot more threads on it, it is a presta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T20:12:52.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30016" CreationDate="2015-04-15T23:15:22.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have previously been able to purchase replacement Fox Kashima CSUs (crown/ steerer/ upper) that many companies will install as an aftermarket option on OEM forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not that you would notice, as user2480585 has stated bumpiness of a ride is generally a tune issue rather than a fork issue. The 32 Evolution is a more than capable fork and if you were an advanced rider you're unlikely to feel the difference that the kashima coating would make.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A few years ago it was about $200 in the US but can't find much to verify that today.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I' don't think Pikes would be your best option unless you were looking to spend a bit more on the bike. The Pikes are more at home on a more aggressive trail bike (Trance SX). You can get a 140mm Pike on the SX but I think you will find something else limiting the rest of you're bike as your riding gets more aggressive. You find all kind of things to replace such as brakes, drive train, shock, wheels and cockpit chasing a more aggressive bike. I would look to upgrade the whole bike rather than the fork. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T02:46:57.327" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T02:46:57.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30032" CreationDate="2015-04-15T23:32:31.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tube can usually fit a range of different tire sizes, because the tube can stretch a bit when it is being inflated.  The range of tire sizes is written on the package that you see at the store. Since your tire is 26&quot;x1.5&quot;, you need to find a tube that is labelled as being appropriate for a 26&quot; (diameter) tire and a width range that includes 1.5&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, look at this picture:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FBNxE.png&quot; alt=&quot;tube_package&quot;&gt;&#xA;Among other things, the label says 26x1.5/2.20. This means that it's intended for 26&quot; tires where the width is between 1.5&quot; and 2.2&quot;. So this one would work for you. I hope this helps in deciphering the labels if you go to a bike store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A previous answer mentioned the two different kinds of valves; this is important. You just have to look at the valve on the old tube that you want to replace and figure out if it's Schrader or Presta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presta valves look like this: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fDgvj.png&quot; alt=&quot;presta&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Schrader valves look like this: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O5Lj8.png&quot; alt=&quot;schrader&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to buy it online, here are two that would work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a Schrader valve: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00165PA1W&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Regular-Schrader-Valve-1-50-1-75/dp/B00165PA1W&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a Presta valve: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00MJYP0KU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-26x1-5-Threaded-Presta-Bicycle/dp/B00MJYP0KU&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T23:42:30.580" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T23:42:30.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21003" CreationDate="2015-04-15T23:46:40.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also have built a direct drive geared bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://comfybikes.blogspot.com.au/p/blog-page_22.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://comfybikes.blogspot.com.au/p/blog-page_22.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But am interested how Joakim managed to modify the Pinion gears to fit them in the hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could NuVinci CVT be modified for the purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19080" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-06-30T04:10:57.600" LastActivityDate="2017-06-30T04:10:57.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30011" CreationDate="2015-04-16T03:15:21.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very good question as it touches one of the most common safety issue which most cyclists ignore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are on the road without bike lanes, you must stay after the car, just like another ca would do, not the right/left side of a car. The reason is the safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stand on the right side (or left if you are in left-sided country), the car which is on the side of you may or may not notice you and may decide to turn right/left. This is dangerous as you can be easily hit this way. Also, even if a driver notices you, the car usually moves cautiously until you are not aligned with it anymore, which slows down the whole traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T03:15:21.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30053" CreationDate="2015-04-16T04:27:46.670" Score="4" ViewCount="12146" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I keep pedaling when shifting up the front chainring, it would fail. Moreover, the chain keeps rubbing with the chainrings and produces many noises. Thus, I have to stop pedaling for around one second when shifting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike comes with a 'Shimano Sora, band-type 34.9mm' front derailleur. The chainrings are 50/34T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to road bike and don't know whether it is normal. I am not sure does it indicate wearing or misconfiguration. If it is normal, is the practice of stop pedaling the best technique when shifting up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T06:07:14.463" Title="Do I have to stop pedaling when shifting up the front chainring?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30038" CreationDate="2015-04-16T07:18:56.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Completely stopping pedaling will not let you shift gears at all. You do have to reduce the tension in the top of the chain to shift front, so pedal, but with small force. The derailleur cannot push the chain sideways if it is under too much tension and thus pulled tight against the chainrings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is normal to reduce pedaling force when shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19097" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T07:18:56.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29968" CreationDate="2015-04-16T07:23:15.020" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the comments said, adding a toe clip would make it a clipless pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be too narrow for a platform pedal (depends on the width of your foot). The foot could slip sideways off the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19097" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T07:23:15.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30038" CreationDate="2015-04-16T08:26:00.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19097/sander-heinsalu&quot;&gt;Sander&lt;/a&gt; already noted not turning the gears will not allow shifting at all. Thus turning the pedals without really stressing them is key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When shifting to a higher gear with such a system it might be necessary to firmly press the shifting lever when shifting the front gear up, or even shift twice if misconfigurated. That stopping the pedaling helps for you might indicate that you are not shifting firmly and fast enough. Otherwise it wouldn't have any effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19098" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T08:26:00.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30038" CreationDate="2015-04-16T10:03:52.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the front derailleur needs adjustment. If you recently bought the bike from a shop then take it back for adjustment. If that's the problem then it will take only a few minutes. If it's worse, such a bent chain ring it will likely cost $$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to do it yourself, check out the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=front+derailleur&quot;&gt;front derailleur questions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To change gears using derailleurs, you should continue pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you need to pedal gently or not depends on the quality of the derailleurs and how well adjusted they are. Certainly most cyclists have learned to pedal gently when changing, because of the painful consequences if the chain slips off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With medium level equipment (such as Sora) and poorly adjusted equipment (such as yours currently) I would certainly ease the pedal pressure when changing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T10:03:52.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-16T10:31:44.307" Score="0" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started riding to work again. I'm using a hybrid (they're called that way. its a sporty bicycle with full gears and tires between city and mtb type tires) now, but i want to use my racing bike for it. however cycling in normal office clothes can get quite uncomfortable for the crotch because of the lower race position. I was wondering if there is a reasonable compromise possible. Like a company that makes clothes (specifically pants) for cycling commuters or something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot go full lycra because the facilites for changing clothes aren't there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4154" LastEditorUserId="4154" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T14:45:19.993" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T15:54:56.560" Title="recommended clothing for compromise betwee office and and biking home on a race bike?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;racing-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-16T11:19:06.510" Score="3" ViewCount="1469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always have issues finding cycling clothing that fits my body shape. I am 196cm / 6ft 5in of (reasonably) slim build (but certainly not skinny). When buying a jersey that is XL they often fit me perfectly across the chest and arms but are never long enough - often leaving a drafty lower back area. I don't want to go to XXL because it will be too baggy across the chest and I'll take on the son wearing his Dad's suit kind of look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like most clothing (not just cycling) I find that sizes &gt;XL are more geared towards salad-dodgers rather than those of us with long backs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any brands of clothing known for producing tops/jerseys with extra long length? What brands do other riders of similar size/body shape go for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17252" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T11:08:56.260" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T11:08:56.260" Title="Which clothing brands are most suitable for very tall men?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;tall&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-16T11:45:23.613" Score="0" ViewCount="2196" Body="&lt;p&gt;My current tube was badly pierced by a screw in the street, so I wanted to replace it with a new one. The tire is a &lt;code&gt;Continental 32 - 622 (28 x 15/8 x 1 1/4 - 700 x 32c)&lt;/code&gt;, so I bought a 28&quot; tube, exactly &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tomsbikecorner.de/images/product_images/popup_images/13561_1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. (Actually I said in the shop that my tire was a 700 x 32c and they gave me the 28&quot;, which made sense at the point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when I put it in the wheel, it was obviously too long (excess length). How comes? Shouldn't a 28&quot; tube fit perfectly a 28&quot; tire? I got a 26&quot; tube and it fits better. I'm very confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: The pierced tube was also too long, as it was folded. It's a second hand bike and it's the first time I've taken the tube out in 4 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19099" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T15:17:33.057" Title="Why is the tube too long?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-04-20T00:06:45.573" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30045" CreationDate="2015-04-16T12:05:43.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That does not look like a 28 decimal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is a 28 fraction and that is not a 700 (622)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Tire Sizing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T12:05:43.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16156" CreationDate="2015-04-16T14:28:37.547" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a late answer I know, but I've found a solution to the rattling problem. I've had an Abus 6500 for nearly 3 years now and the rattling always annoyed me. I used to wrap a kind of nylon strap between the lock as I folded it and that partly solved it, although most of the rattle was coming from the joints themselves. It was only just today when I thought of this: I sprayed some chain oil, the type that comes in a spray can, into the joints, between the bars. As you may know, this oil is very liquid when sprayed but soon solidifies as the solvent evaporates. This allows it to get right into the joint and GREATLY reduce rattle. There is inevitably some that runs onto the parts you need to touch so a bit of cleaning up afterwards is necessary but the result for me is just astounding. I just wish I'd thought of it 3 years ago!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19101" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T14:28:37.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-16T15:17:25.970" Score="0" ViewCount="7668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am have a tiagra 11-25 10 speed cassette with short cage. I am a poor climber and looking for extra gear; I would like to go 11-32 for this year until my climbing improves, will the short cage derailleur take a 32 teeth cog?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not what 10 speed derailleur is recommended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19102" LastEditorUserId="9062" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T04:11:46.057" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T05:21:41.330" Title="Can I change from short to long derailleur to increase cog size" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30045" CreationDate="2015-04-16T15:17:33.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chances are it's not too long, it just appears that way because it's deflated. You just need to put some air in it, put one or two pumps in the tube, just enough to mostly inflate it, but not enough to stretch the rubber (over-inflating it will also make it look too long), then set the tube in your tire, it should be fine. You may need to let the air back out after in order to set the bead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T15:17:33.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30049" CreationDate="2015-04-16T15:27:03.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may need a longer derailleur, because you're going to need to run a longer chain to compensate for the extra teeth. Try swapping the chain first to see if the new cassette work with the shorter derailleur arm, but you may find that the chain will be too long, sag, and rub on itself between the pulley cogs when you're riding on your smallest ring. Whether it'll work or not depends entirely on gear ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T15:27:03.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30044" CreationDate="2015-04-16T15:38:40.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the same boat, what you need to do is shop &lt;strong&gt;Tall sizes&lt;/strong&gt;. I've got a 6'5&quot; wingspan but I'm only a size medium in build. If I get something sized MT (Medium Tall) then it fits perfect. Lots of brands sell tall sizes, but it's my experience that most brands only make tall sizes for their lower-end performance gear, except for the uber expensive brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search online, most shops don't stock the tall stuff so you have to order it. Visit the brands you're interested in and then search their sites for &quot;Tall&quot; or &quot;Long&quot;, this usually brings up all the articles that come in tall sizes. If you fit perfect in XL width wise, then I imagine you'd fit perfect in XLTall stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One brand that sells a lot of tall cycling clothing, is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aerotechdesigns.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;aero tech designs&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T18:46:11.313" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T18:46:11.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30038" CreationDate="2015-04-16T15:47:30.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Use the Clutch!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I always tell people when I'm teaching them how to shift gears properly. Chain-rings and Cogs are machined with *pickup points&quot; that assist transferring the chain from one ring to the other, they only work while you're turning the cranks. So I tell people to let all the power off of their pedals, but keep the cranks turning and don't step back into the pedals with any force until the chain has fully shifted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T15:47:30.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30043" CreationDate="2015-04-16T15:54:56.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;&quot;The facilities for changing clothes aren't there&quot;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes they are, it's called a bathroom or a toilet stall, you don't have to have a locker room to swap a pair of pants, just wear your lycra for your ride and pack your clothes in your bag. Then change in the bathroom when you get to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, I once had a suit that was made out of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.nordstrom.com/sr?origin=keywordsearch&amp;amp;contextualcategoryid=0&amp;amp;keyword=lycra#keyword=lycra&amp;amp;type=keyword&amp;amp;currency=CAD&amp;amp;category=s6001656&amp;amp;defaultsize3=&amp;amp;size=&amp;amp;width=&amp;amp;color=&amp;amp;price=&amp;amp;brand=&amp;amp;stores=&amp;amp;instoreavailability=false&amp;amp;lastfilter=searchcategory_6001656&amp;amp;sizeFinderId=0&amp;amp;resultsmode=&amp;amp;segmentId=0&amp;amp;keywordSortEngine=RBS&amp;amp;page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wool-lycra&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, they're a little more expensive, but the material was certainly stretchy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T15:54:56.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29968" CreationDate="2015-04-16T16:04:10.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either the seller meant &lt;em&gt;clipped&lt;/em&gt; pedal-as in you could bolt toe clips to it-or he didn't know what he was talking about. Those are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; clipless pedals. They are VP road pedals that have an integrated toeclip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TiKFH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T16:54:36.157" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T16:54:36.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25756" CreationDate="2015-04-16T17:43:51.913" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think surge braking is as user-friendly as a manuel braking system.  Here is what I basically do for my 90-something trailer, on just one wheel...this should be even better if braking both of trailer's wheels:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a rider-controlled trailer brake lever as part of the trailer unit. This makes connecting and disconnecting the trailer from the bicycle easy, since the brake cable do not have to be detached and re-attached.The bicyclist can activate the brake by pushing the paddle backwards with his buttocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional advantage of this system is that both the rider's hands are free to use the caliper brakes on the handlebars of the bicycle for additional stopping power, and the cyclist can control the relative degree of braking between the front bicycle wheel, rear bicycle wheel and trailer for the safest possible operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, this design protocol is economical and easy to repair as needed.  (I didn't have to repair mine ever since I built it two years ago.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I posted a YouTube video showing how effective my paddle brake lever, which is completely independent of the bicycle set up, works. I may be using a road bicycle in the video, but the problem is applicable to any bicycle type. The point is that using a brake on the trailer does help us ride our bicycles without worrying about the heavy trailer affecting any kind of slowing and stopping distance, one of the problems some of us may experience with surge brakes.  The link is below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/4eba5rtFgQw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19104" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T22:50:16.517" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T22:50:16.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18440" CreationDate="2015-04-16T17:52:31.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do for my bicycle trailer is pretty simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a rider-controlled trailer brake lever as part of the trailer unit. This makes connecting and disconnecting the trailer from the bicycle easy, since the brake cable(s) do not have to be detached and re-attached.The bicyclist can activate the brake by pushing the paddle backwards with his buttocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional advantage of this system is that both the rider's hands are free to use the caliper brakes on the handlebars of the bicycle for additional stopping power, and the cyclist can control the relative degree of braking between the front bicycle wheel, rear bicycle wheel and trailer for the safest possible operation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, this design protocol is economical and easy to repair as needed.  (I never needed to repair my system ever since I built it almost two years ago.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I posted a YouTube video showing how effective my paddle brake lever, which is completely independent of the bicycle set up, works.I may be using a road bicycle in the video, but the problem is applicable to any bicycle type.The point is that using a brake on the trailer does help us ride our bicycles without worrying about the heavy trailer affecting any kind of slowing and stopping distance.The link is below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/4eba5rtFgQw?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19104" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T17:52:31.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30044" CreationDate="2015-04-16T19:10:30.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aerotechdesigns.com/tall-man-cycling-jersey.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aero Tech Designs Cycle Wear&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tall Products&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short sleeved jerseys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long sleeved Jerseys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike shorts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bib Shorts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sizes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Tall Cycling Jersey Size    Small   Medium  Large   XL      2XL     3XL     4XL&#xA;&#xA;Fits Men's Chest inches     32-34   36-38   38-40   42-44   46-48   50-54   54-56&#xA;&#xA;Garment Fabric Measures &#xA;around Chest                38      41      44      46      48      54      56&#xA;&#xA;Fabric Measurement: &#xA;Back Length from top &#xA;of collar down the center &#xA;of the back to bottom       30.5    31.5    32.5    33.5    34.5    35.5    35.5&#xA;&#xA;Sleeve Length from arm &#xA;pit seam to end of cuff     21      21.5    22      22.5    23      23.5    23.5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T19:10:30.730" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-04-16T19:10:30.730" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30049" CreationDate="2015-04-16T20:15:20.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like you'd be able to use an 11-32T cassette at all with a 10-speed Tiagra rear derailleur.  From [Shimano's documentation] (&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_5XN0A/SI-5XN0A-001-Eng_v1_m56577569830746860.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_5XN0A/SI-5XN0A-001-Eng_v1_m56577569830746860.pdf&lt;/a&gt;), the largest sprocket that either the short cage or long cage version supports is 30T.  If you wanted to use their 12-30T tiagra cassette, you would need the long cage because the tooth difference has to be 16 teeth or less for the short cage, whereas the long cage supports a tooth difference up to 22 teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to go up to 32T and stick with a road derailleur, it looks like you'll have to upgrade to the newer 11 speed stuff and get the long cage version.  The [11 speed Ultegra] (&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/road/shifting---braking/rear-derailleurs/rd-6800-gs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/road/shifting---braking/rear-derailleurs/rd-6800-gs.html&lt;/a&gt;) derailleur looks like the only road derailleur from Shimano that would support an 11-32T cassette.  Incidentally, that's the derailleur that came stock on my 'cross bike and it's got an 11-32T cassette on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16941" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T20:15:20.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30049" CreationDate="2015-04-16T20:17:16.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short and long deraileur cages each have a specified &quot;capacity&quot;. This capacity is the sum of the (largest cog - smalest cog) + (largest chainring - smallest chainring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you have a tripple 30/39/52 tripple with that 11-32 cassette, you will need a deraileur capacity of (52-30)+(32-11)=43. I don't think they make them that large - current Tiagara large is 39, but check on your model/year specifically. With a 39 capacity deraileur cage, you can afford only 11 difference on the front, will only work with a 36-46 cyclocross style crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the other answer stated, you will likely also need a new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, while it is not recommended, you could use a derailleur cage that falls a bit short on capacity as long as you avoid the small/small gear combos. If you go this way, first make sure your chain is long enough to accommodate the large/large gear. Then make sure you know which small/small gearcombos are going to be off limits by testing before riding the bike (or calculating from capacity), and make sure you NEVER try to use those gears. Make sure you understand all this before proceeding, it is as I said not recommended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe when the pros pull tricks like this for especially steep mountain stages, they are using a MTB derailleur or the cage from a MTB derailleur on their road derailleur - or the rider is just really confident he knows what he is doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19092" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T20:17:16.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30011" CreationDate="2015-04-16T20:32:39.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like ShemSeger I am also located in BC, but it is my understanding that there may be more legal grey surrounding the topic than the blanket approval Shem is suggesting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://vancouver.ca/files/cov/bikeSense1105.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeSense BC&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Passing on the right&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Passing vehicles on the right between intersections, especially in congested city traffic, is a topic of debate, even in the courts. Under appropriate circumstances, case law suggests that cyclists should be able to legally pass slower moving traffic on the right where the curb lane is wide, provided they are cautious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most often it is best to shoulder check, move into the middle of the lane and line up with the rest of traffic. This will also prevent motorists from making a right turn into you as you enter an intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When cycling in narrow-lane traffic where many motorists attempt to squeeze past you before each traffic light, some cycling instructors suggest the following:&#xA;  Rather than moving up to the first car, which will likely re-pass the cyclist, it may be more strategic for the cyclist to proceed only as far up the line as the last cars likely to make the next green light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;It is legal to pass on the right:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;when you are in a bike lane; or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;when the vehicle is turning left or indicating a left turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;When NOT to pass on the right:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;when traffic is moving;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;when there is a street, driveway or parking spot a car&#xA;  can turn into; or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;when there is less than 1.5 m between traffic and the curb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you are not in a bike lane it is NOT legal to pass on the right if the car is going straight or turning right.  Also if you have a line of cars turning left, but one car is not you may be entering some legal grey areas. BikeSense BC seems to suggest that the case law may be in flux and that decisions/blame may be decided on a case-by-case basis.  &lt;strong&gt;This is not the same as a blanket approval as suggested by ShemSeger.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Personal Thoughts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically get in line with the cars and take my turn. I like to take the space to ensure I am seen and re-enforce the concept that bicycles are vehicles.  I typically only lose a few seconds in doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a dedicated bike lane I will cautiously move up on the right.  Over the years I have also encountered a number of erratic drivers.  They do not signal their intention to turn right (so you can't anticipate sudden movements) and often fail to perform shoulder check.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During rush hour these drivers sometimes dart out to the right when they decide the line is moving too slow. Someone I knew was caught under a large tractor trailer in this exact scenario.  Luckily as he heard crunching metal he was able to roll out of the ways of the trailer wheels.  His bike was turned into a pancake but he escaped with his life (and injuries).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't intend to frighten you, but provide some caution about sticking the right balance between saving a few seconds and riding another day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T20:50:32.190" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T20:50:32.190" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21619" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:09:44.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran into this exact problem. In my case, it was buying 9-speed chain for an 8-speed drivetrain— I didn't realize backward compatibility was an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T21:09:44.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:43:24.683" Score="4" ViewCount="3660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a bag as an addition to my backpack to use for cycling. A pannier isn't a choice I want to make, because I believe they balance the weight badly, and that there is some risk of broken spokes on the rear wheel when using a pannier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started looking for other options and finally found this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bag details:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Volume: 7 liters (1.85 US gal)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Weight: 250 g. (8.8 oz)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Material: “Titan”&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Material density: 1680D&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Basic colors: black or gray&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Additional colors: orange, blue, yellow, red, green, light green, lime color.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Price: $59&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7hJkS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZChsT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18854" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2015-04-25T13:57:27.913" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T07:29:33.757" Title="Does anybody use an under the saddle bag for touring? (Not Pannier Bags)" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2019-03-20T03:04:30.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30064" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-16T21:56:41.743" Score="3" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hydraulic disc road bike with a 160mm rotor on the front and a 140mm on the rear.  The setup is exactly the same front to rear, except for rotor size. I'd like to know the disparity between the force I would have to apply at the brake lever for the total friction or stopping power to be equal front to rear, for a given speed over a given distance, to a complete stop, i.e. total work done by each to be exactly equal.  Since the 140mm rotor is 7/8th's the size of the 160mm, I'd be tempted to say that an equal lever pull would produce 7/8th's the friction on the rear, but I'm sure there is more to it than that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for example, If I'm riding at 10mph and come to a stop over 100ft, how hard would I have to pull each lever (as a ratio of front brake/rear brake) to ensure that my momentum is converted to exactly the same amount of heat by each rotor respectively?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T19:21:13.727" Title="Hydraulic disc brakes - total friction as a function of rotor size" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-16T22:40:06.903" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;This puncture is on the inside face of the tube. One day I got a big piece of glass in my tire. I patched it up and then I got a puncture on the inside face of the tube. I patched that and then I got another puncture on the inside within a few blocks. I patched that and then I got a third puncture on the inside within another few blocks. The punctures are not in the same place so I'm pretty sure the rim is not the issue. Do I have a piece of glass inside the tube, rolling around and puncturing in random places? Why are the holes only on the inside face of the tube? Will any new tube fall to the same fate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXFME.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12709" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T02:59:18.957" Title="What's causing this puncture?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16128" CreationDate="2015-04-16T22:40:49.297" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also be getting some play in the fork (assuming you have a suspension fork).  To verify this, put your finger where the stanchion meets the lowers of the fork, lock the front brake and rock the bike back and forth.  Every fork I've had has just a little play there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not likely that the play in your cassette is related to your front wheel.  That play could be from the cassette ring being a little loose, or the fit of the cassette on the freehub (likely) or just a bit of play in the hub itself.  If the cassette ring isn't loose I wouldn't worry about the cassette play...unless you think it's affecting your shifting.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18992" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T22:40:49.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30065" CreationDate="2015-04-16T23:01:14.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a glass cut to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is common for glass to lurk in the tire case, so this is unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the tire and tube off completely and inspect the inside of the rim and the tire carefully. If you can't see anything, run your fingers around the rim and the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still haven't found anything, take the rim tape off and check it and the rim again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still haven't found anything, reassemble, sigh deeply, and hope for the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T23:01:14.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30065" CreationDate="2015-04-16T23:03:27.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This puncture made from outside - the glass isn't inside the tube, but did you get it out of the tire? Is your tire intact? Did you hear the tube blowing up?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It looks like your tire have something that punctures the tube. It maybe a glass in it, or metal hoop that inside tire bead came out, or the tire sniped in some place. As every time when you install the tube you rotate the tire, the puncture will be at another place on the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="7999" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T15:02:13.113" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T15:02:13.113" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30065" CreationDate="2015-04-16T23:08:46.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you didn't already, you need to clear the inside of the tire of whatever debris is causing the flat, before replacing the tube.  From your description, it sounds like the culprit that is causing the problem hasn't been cleared from the inside of the tire, so you may continue to get flats over and over.  At this point, I'd replace the tube at least, and possibly the tire as well.  Next time you need to replace a tube, make sure to slowly and carefully examine the inside of the tire with your fingers (being careful not to get any glass or splinters in yourself).  If you can't identify what's causing the flat from that, hold off on replacing the tube, because it will probably happen again, or, take it to a shop.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possibility is that you're not installing the tube properly and it's pinching when you inflate, causing a pinch flat.  Make sure everything is seated properly and that no section of the tube is bulging out of the tire before inflation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastEditorUserId="19106" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T00:44:34.307" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T00:44:34.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30064" CreationDate="2015-04-17T01:10:08.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the same force applied by the cylinder and the same materials, with the same pad size, the larger rotor will have a larger &quot;lever arm&quot; and be more &quot;effective&quot;, in proportion to the diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T01:10:08.143" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30064" CreationDate="2015-04-17T01:47:34.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about equal torque.  The front wheel will do as much as ninety percent of the work on a maximum stop.  You will learn to modulate the rear to prevent lock-up.  Equal pressure will be fine for normal stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19108" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T01:47:34.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30074" CreationDate="2015-04-17T02:18:11.787" Score="0" ViewCount="1249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a performance hybrid I want to upgrade the wheelset for. I'm looking for narrow rims - I'd like to run 23c tires (so the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;charts&lt;/a&gt;&quot; suggest 15mm inner width) - with a 135mm (mountain bike) hub. It seems manufacturers focus on road bikes for the narrow performance rims, and mountain bikes for wide rims, and I can't seem to find the middle ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to custom build my wheel or is there a category of road-bike width hybrid bike hub wheels that I'm just not finding in my search?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5372" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T14:59:40.297" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T16:31:05.100" Title="Sourcing wheels for hybrid bike" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30064" CreationDate="2015-04-17T16:23:06.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some assumptions in your question that make it next to impossible to answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Braking is not a static operation. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The friction of any wheel is directly proportional to the weight currently being supported by that wheel. As you brake the effective &quot;weight&quot; moves from the both wheels to almost entirely on the front wheel. The harder you brake just the rear wheel, the sooner it will&#xA;lock up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Effective braking is not about absolute stopping power, but modulation. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just about any brake can lock up a wheel, and once you lock up a wheel your stopping distance isn't going to get any shorter[1] and you've lost a significant amount of control&#xA;on where the bike is going. The point of larger disks is not to increase&#xA;absolute stopping power but to increase control and heat dissipation. The leverage difference between a 140mm and a 160mm rotor compared to the much larger diameter of the wheel is fairly minimal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;140/700 = 0.2 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;160/700 = 0.228 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger disk allows you to get closer to the lock up point and also suffers less brake fade due to heating. In MTB jargon terms, a bigger rotor provides better &quot;modulation&quot;, &#xA;this means control of stopping power, not absolute stopping power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question is not a simple ratio, but a curve that is a solution to a relatively complex set of differential equations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]- Depending on the surface, it may actually get longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T16:23:06.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30072" CreationDate="2015-04-17T16:31:05.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider you are not finding what you are looking for for a reason.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A larger tire does not necessarily have a lower rolling resistance.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A the same pressure a larger tire actually has a lower rolling resistance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over city terrain I would take a 28 mm or 30 mm over a 23 mm for rolling resistance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ride and flat resistance I would definitely take a 28 mm + over a smaller tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racers go with a narrow tires more for wind resistance. On a hybrid you don't have nearly the aerodynamics of a road bike - you are taller and wider.  What you pick up on a small tire on hybrid is just not worth it.  You already have the wider fork and rear hub.  Putting smaller tires on it is just not going to change the aerodynamics much - especially on the rear.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would stay in the right sizing for your rims and go with a low resistance road type tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably have like a 20 mm that will take 28 mm tire fine.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are bigger than 20 mm you can find CX 135mm wheels as low as 20 mm.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the front you if you are dead set then you could find a road wheel for the front.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But I still don't think 23 mm is going to make you faster than a 28 mm on that bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want speed then I would put that money into a road bike rather than a custom wheel build.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T16:31:05.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30063" CreationDate="2015-04-17T16:34:11.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen similar setups for MTB touring that use a large seatpack, a frame pack and a handlebar pack to get enough capacity. This setup also allows a better weight balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepacking.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bikepacking.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is a good site for getting ideas for different setups. This site might also give you some ideas as well. I know we aren't supposed to recommend gear, but I've been very happy with the stuff I have got from Revelate Designs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm/store.catalog/Frame-Bags&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Revelate Designs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, your concerns about panniers are unfounded if you plan to tour on anything like a road. Panniers can be a problem if you are touring on trails or your bike geometry doesn't provide sufficient heel clearance ( often a problem on MTB bikes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T22:47:10.943" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T22:47:10.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29445" CreationDate="2015-04-17T21:21:19.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your wheel is trued (lateral movement) to within 0.5mm it is considered good.  Same 0.5mm tolerance for the roundness of the wheel.  Just remember that you may need to take the &quot;stress&quot; out of the wheel as the spokes can wind up with the torque applied to the nipple.  It is that pinging sound that happens when a freshly built wheel is ridden for first time. Simply squeeze the spokes together, as though you were playing it like a harp.  You should hear some pings then check if it is true and round, adjust as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned it was your front wheel so you can flip it round to check if you have it dished equally (lateral offset) as is the norm for most front wheels.  A blob of blutac and a pin on the fork blade can be used as a guide.  And finally the wheel will go out of true with use especially during the first few rides, so check it after a couple of months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19120" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T21:21:19.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30065" CreationDate="2015-04-17T21:35:16.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have a spoke poking through, or causing a lump, in the rim tape.  Or there is damage to the rim tape or some other thing stuck to the rim tape or rim.  If you can't see of feel anything give the wheel a wash and scrub the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19120" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T21:35:16.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30081" CreationDate="2015-04-18T01:56:53.403" Score="0" ViewCount="2360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a used Trek road bike for my daughter. I found an aluminum frame, carbon fork bike with 105 shifters and an Ultegra 9 speed rear derailer. I'm trying to figure out how old the bike is to determine how much I'm willing to pay for it (and how old that carbon front fork is). I own a Cannondale aluminum / carbon road bike with all 105 components and it has a 10 speed read cassette. I purchased tis bike in 2002. So when did Ultegra shift font 9 to 10 speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T02:33:46.493" Title="When did Ultegra shift from 9 to 10 speed rear cassettes?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30080" CreationDate="2015-04-18T02:33:46.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultegra switched to 10 speed with 6600 model. Judging by Google, Shimano unveiled the groupset in 2004 and it became available &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/general-cycling-discussion/ultegra-10-october-2986.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;in October 2004&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T02:33:46.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29625" CreationDate="2015-04-18T06:10:37.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that your shoes are wide enough and your front strap is not too tight, try moving your cleat sideways towards the crank arm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will move your foot out a little towards the outside of the pedal and reduce outward pressure. It worked for me when I had a similar problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure that cleats are not too far forward. They should usually be positioned so that the pedal axle is under or slightly behind the ball of your foot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18981" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T06:10:37.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31276" CreationDate="2015-04-18T08:54:38.123" Score="2" ViewCount="1597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a kids' 18&quot; bike with a fixed gear and a coaster-brake. I would like to replace the rear hub with a (preferably 3-)geared hub with a coaster brake as it is the kind of brake my kid is most comfortable with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I am facing is that it is an aluminium frame bike and it only would take a hub with 110mm &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#old&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OLD&lt;/a&gt;. Yet, all the hubs I am able to find are 116-120 (Sturmey Archer S2, SRAM T3, Shimano Nexus SG3C-41) or even 130mm (SRAM i-Motion) in width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any chance of modifying the Shimano Nexus or the Sturmey Archer hubs to fit a 110mm frame (e.g. by replacing the outer screw/lock nuts with narrower variants)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19127" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T23:05:01.367" Title="Modify geared hub to fit a 110mm frame" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30086" CreationDate="2015-04-18T10:43:09.717" Score="2" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are handlebars the diameter they are (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-handlebars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;22.2 or 23.8 in grip area&lt;/a&gt;)? In general, the best diameter for grip strength is where the hand around the grip has about 1mm from the tip of the middle finger to the palm (this rule is used to select tennis racquet grip diameter for example). Sounds like the usual handlebar diameter is too narrow for optimal grip for most people, even with thick wrapping tape. Any reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19097" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T11:15:27.027" Title="Reason for handlebar diameter" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30084" CreationDate="2015-04-18T11:15:27.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You also need to consider how people use the handlebars. e.g. covering the brakes -- could someone with small hands reach the brakes easily with an optimal-for-the-average-person diameter (I suspect not, especially with the brakes of many years ago when standards were set).  Also if pure grip comfort were the issue, drop bars wouldn't have happened; instead they are optimised for a range of positions for different situations and to allow the rider to vary their body position for several reasons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easier to take a thin bar and make it thicker by double wrapping or padded gloves, but if your bars were too thick (small hands) they would have to be replaced, reducing the market for standard bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flat bar bikes tend to have grips with some thickness to them, taking them closer to the optimal while still allowing the rider to cover/use the brakes for long periods without contortions or spoiling the grip you'd need over rough terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact numbers are a matter of convention, which may derive from imperial measurements, a round number minus a fixed thickness, or a combination of the 2 -- this is well documented for tyre sizing as a comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This was a comment before I expanded and formatted it.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T11:15:27.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30097" CreationDate="2015-04-18T13:28:01.013" Score="1" ViewCount="1776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am switching my rear Avid Elixir brake for a Shimano XT one, but I am a bit unsure about mounting the caliper. The Avid brakes had spacers that put the brakes in the right position for the 160 mm rotor I am using, but the Shimano ones do not come with any spacers. The Shimano manual says to mount the caliper directly to the post mounts, without any further explanation for different rotor sizes. So is mounting the caliper directly to the post mounts correct for a 160 mm rotor, or do I need any spacers as with the Avid brake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VlcJN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T20:51:58.607" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T20:51:58.607" Title="Do Shimano disc brakes need post mount spacers?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29946" CreationDate="2015-04-18T13:33:31.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tyre is there to support the tube, without the tyre you couldn't put 110psi into the tube on its own. Once you get a hole in the tyre, the tube isn't supported and will have escaped through that hole and stretched until it failed with a bang.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole in the tyre might look small when it has no pressure in it but when you put 100psi into it, the hole will get bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to replace the tube with a new one and inflate it you would find that the new tube would do the same thing that the previous one did. I would not recommend doing this. I'd recommend a new tube and tyre, it might be possible to repair the tube but I wouldn't try to repair the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19132" LastEditorUserId="19132" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T13:42:59.830" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T13:42:59.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30090" CreationDate="2015-04-18T16:51:15.107" Score="1" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking to set something up like this with bullhorns, can't find the part to attach shifter to bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GYWMq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GYWMq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://imgur.com/cvWOSbS&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14385" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2018-05-15T02:11:04.027" LastActivityDate="2018-05-15T02:11:04.027" Title="Does anyone know who made the part that attaches the shifter to the bar?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30089" CreationDate="2015-04-18T17:54:15.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those look like a pair of &lt;a href=&quot;https://paulcomp.com/shop/components/shimanothumbies/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paul's Thumbies&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also just buy bar end shifters and attach them to the bars as well. This will likely be a lot cheaper provided the bar ends fit in the bullhorn you're using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-05-14T03:21:34.477" LastActivityDate="2018-05-14T03:21:34.477" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30092" CreationDate="2015-04-18T22:33:21.077" Score="1" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given an old racer frame and some parts which I am converting into a single speed commuter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front right fork has a small toothed mounting point, it looks a bit like it could have held a light or similar in a past life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone shed some light &lt;code&gt;pardon the pun&lt;/code&gt; on what exactly this mount point is and what it was used for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PGosw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front fork mounting point&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iyRBO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closeup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also are there any potential modern day applications for this mount point, does anyone sell any LEDs or adapters that make use of this interesting little feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3361" LastEditorUserId="3361" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T07:59:09.030" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T07:59:09.030" Title="Right fork mounting point" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;front&gt;&lt;led-lights&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30091" CreationDate="2015-04-19T00:32:34.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to tell from the photo whether a light or something else was mounted there in the past. It's certainly possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There aren't any modern lights I'm aware of designed specifically to mount to the side of the fork like that. Many dynamo hub lights are designed to mount to the joint of the left/right sides (i.e. the crown) of the fork, but that type of mount wouldn't fit well on the side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be fairly easy to take a small piece of plastic or metal tubing and an appropriately sized screw, and create a small mount that a regular bike handlebar light mount could go on. For a step-by-step example, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/blog/comments/free_diy_light_mount_via_urban_velo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog post&lt;/a&gt;. Below is a picture of their final setup: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4fbS6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bike light fork mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastEditorUserId="262" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T02:37:48.553" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T02:37:48.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30063" CreationDate="2015-04-19T12:12:13.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saddle bags of different sizes used to be common for road bike touring in Europe. One popular brand was Carradice of Nelson. These days most people on similar trips seem to prefer small backpacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally used one for a supported trip through Switzerland. The bag was roughly the same size as yours, and it definitely interfered with bike handling. The bag is higher on the bike than panniers and swings around more. The good parts are that it was easy to install on a road bike that doesn't have the clearance or mounts for rear rack and because it's behind the rider, it doesn't increase air resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture (of Jobst Brandt) to give an idea about the setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztooP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ztooP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jobs Brandt showing one&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://joyfulathlete.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Jobst-Brandt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;joyfulathlete.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T07:29:33.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29171" CreationDate="2015-04-19T12:14:58.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a happy Vanmoof owner for about two years here in Amsterdam. It's never occurred to me at all to be worried about the lights hitting a bike rack, or anything else. Even if they did, they're pretty solid and I would imagine you'd need to bang at them pretty hard to damage them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19139" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T12:14:58.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-19T12:40:44.133" Score="1" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Vanmoof 5.1. I had it serviced recently by Vanmoof in Amsterdam and when I got it back, it was riding wonderfully—everything felt smooth and &quot;free&quot;, like every little bit of power I was putting into the pedals was getting to the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks later and it's kind of back to where it was before the service. There is a little creaking/ticking sound coming from the cranks every turn and it feels a little like I'm riding through treacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone aware of a specific problem with Vanmoof bottom brackets, or could you suggest what it might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19139" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T17:38:39.787" Title="Is anyone aware of specific problems with Vanmoof cranks/bottom brackets?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30095" CreationDate="2015-04-19T13:52:49.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got the same problem on (what I believe is) a 2013 3.1. I was going to try replacing/upgrading the bottom bracket myself soon, hoping to smooth out the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find the size online so I'll need to take it out and inspect before I can order a replacement, hopefully this goes smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, I'll update with my results when I have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Replaced with Suntour 68x118mm Square tapered BB from local (Arlington, MA) bike shop and removed chainguard (personal preference).  Awful sound is gone... For now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your mileage may vary. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19140" LastEditorUserId="19140" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T17:38:39.787" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T17:38:39.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30087" CreationDate="2015-04-19T14:39:51.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your fork is a post mount, and your rotor is 160mm, you will not need additional adapters or spacers to fit a Shimano brake.  The image from the manual you posted is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T14:39:51.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30108" CreationDate="2015-04-19T17:14:52.923" Score="4" ViewCount="3434" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYxEV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;motorcycle half helmet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering buying a motorcycle half helmet for cycling. I ride road bike for leisure. I would ride alongside with traffics quite often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, I am looking for more protection. I am not sure can ordinary bicycle helmet provides enough protection for lateral shock if I hit the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, I really like the retractable shield. I wish to protect my eyes from UV and dirt. However, I cannot wear googles as I am shortsighted. Bicycle helmets with shield are even more expensive then such motorcycle helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it practical to wear such helmet for road cycling? For example, are there heat, comfortability or sight blocking issues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastEditorUserId="18867" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T17:42:30.207" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T22:54:00.803" Title="Is it practical to wear motorcycle half helmet for road cycling?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30099" CreationDate="2015-04-19T18:24:59.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;no. it doesn't help and will just make you uncomfortable with a lot of heat and i imagine its quite heavy which will put strain on your neck. you could maybe try a downhill helmet but really a road helmet is designed for safety of road cyclists. it does provide adequate protection, unfortunately i know this from experience.  there are also goggles for those of less than perfect eyesight. i have one of those. they cost a little more (upwards of 100 euro) but it solves that problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4154" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T18:24:59.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30105" CreationDate="2015-04-19T19:29:06.923" Score="0" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in need of replacing my crankset on my hybrid discovery 401 - although all that is left of the 401 now is the frame and the bb/crankset. &#xA;it has a sealed bb 113/68 square taper. &#xA;I am struggling to find a triple crankset on the web that would suit, as all of them seem to be hollowtech or some other bb type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am unable to work out is if any of these whizzy new types are going to fit my frame.. or what I need to check to know. &#xA;I have removed the existing bb hence knowing it's measurements. it is threaded only at one end, and all the pictures on the wiggle or wherever for different types of bb seem to have threads on both ends. &#xA;I use the bike to cycle to work each day, about 20 miles round trip, it is a 24 speed bike currently, and i have some fairly nice shifters and thus need s 3 sprocket crankset. &#xA;I also take one of the little ones in a hamax seat, or both of them in a trailer thingy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone offer some assistance? &#xA;An square taper bb seems to be about £10 so not a bank breaker, the newer hollowtech or whatever are a little more expensive and don't necessarily want to change it all up, but finding a crankset that is square taper, and for a hybrid rather than a mtb is a nightmare. along with not really being sure on what teething to go for.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any recommendations or links happily received&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastEditorUserId="19093" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T20:59:53.043" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T18:11:33.550" Title="Finding a replacement crankset (and maybe a bb to go with)" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30099" CreationDate="2015-04-19T21:29:21.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes to all the issues plus &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heat&lt;br&gt;&#xA;lack of ventilation &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;comfort&lt;br&gt;&#xA;heavy and you are not sitting upright like on a motorcycle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sight blocking&lt;br&gt;&#xA;you are in a more bent position&lt;br&gt;&#xA;even a mountain bike visor can block your vision on a road bike &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;safety&lt;br&gt;&#xA;the weight can put more stress on your neck in a fall  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said some bicycle helmets are safer than others.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not cheap but check out POC.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has to be a helmet you will wear.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have a POC but I wear my lighter racing type helmet often because it is more comfortable.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T21:29:21.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2015-04-19T22:42:29.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though not, technically, a part of the frame the headset will most likely be pitted and its life reduced due to the lack of steering when used as a trainer. &#xA;I bought a cheap bicycle from bikesdirect and, after setting it up to align with my regular road bikes, don't care about the headset damage, which did occur, as I only use it on the trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19145" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T22:42:29.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30099" CreationDate="2015-04-19T22:58:38.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle helmets are certified for the types of impacts that one would encounter while having an accident on a bicycle. Motorcycle helmets need to be able to endure much more, because riders are going much faster and have more momentum should they crash. Professional road racers ride much faster than the average cyclist (25 mph to 28 mph on flat terrain, in the case of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/tour-de-france-archives/2011-tour-de-france/you-versus-peloton&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tour de France&lt;/a&gt;), and they wear road bike helmets, not motorcycle helmets. Having a lighter helmet designed for cyclists will allow you to turn your head more easily, which is critical when looking backwards before entering traffic. You’ll also appreciate this lightness on long climbs. The lack of ventilation on the motorcycle helmet might not be so much of an issue if you’re travelling down the highway on a motorbike at 55 mph, but for a 20 mph ride on the road, there will probably be sweat pouring down into your eyes. The function of the shield can be accomplished by getting a cheap, light pair of goggles and putting them over your eyeglasses. I’m partial to &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000MT7OSK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these no-name ones&lt;/a&gt; because they’re cheap and come with tinted and clear lenses. They will fog up more than your motorcycle helmet’s shield when you’re stopped, but any fog on goggles should dissipate in a few seconds once you start moving again. If sun in your eyes is still an issue, you could try a mountain bike or commuting helmet that has a visor on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4275" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T22:58:38.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30101" CreationDate="2015-04-19T22:58:52.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one I prepared earlier, the question is slightly different than the original &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14946/can-i-replace-chainrings-without-replacing-the-rest-of-the-drive-train&quot;&gt;Can I replace chainrings without replacing the rest of the drive train?&lt;/a&gt; but the answer suits. You have the same considerations for a selecting a new chainset as this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain line&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When selecting a new crank set you need to ensure it aligns with the current chainline of your bike. If you change the chain line you may not be able to use all of the gears on your rear cassette in all gears up front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom bracket&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to ensure that a new crankset will be compatible with your current BB spindle length and interface. (square, octo, isis, hollowtech etc.) If your BB has a lot of wear once you have the cranks off its not a bad idea to change the BB at the same time as they're not that big a cost. Also it's sometimes if you get a good deal on a crankset to get a matching BB as they're the cheaper item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain length&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to shorten the chain going to smaller rings if the derailleur doesn't provide enough tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rear derailleur capacity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a problem when shifting to a smaller crankset but if going larger you would need to ensure that the rear derailleur would handle the additional cogs. There are tools online to help calculate this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wear&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chain and rear cassette are showing signs of wear it's often wise to replace these at the same time as they will wear a new crankset faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain width&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are buying a new crankset it has to be appropriate for the number of gears on your bike, this is because chains are different widths to accommodate more gears on the rear cassette. The rest of the drive train is sized to fit the chain width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T22:58:52.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-20T00:40:07.297" Score="5" ViewCount="5076" Body="&lt;p&gt;While working on a old 60's Raleigh I found that there is slight pitting on one of the cones on the front hub (rest of the hub is good).  Ideally I would replace the damaged part and move one, but spare parts for these bikes are becoming difficult to find.  While I did find a replacement this time, there may be a point that I will not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given that one can't fix this properly, what can be done to ensure that damage is minimized?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will also cause my bearings to wear out faster, and rules of thumb to follow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case these are the oil lubed hubs and I plan on sticking with that, but if grease would work better, then I'm ok with that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is all the damage the current cone has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CiTzl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Damage to cone&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2015-05-03T20:33:08.187" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T19:49:14.747" Title="How to minimize damage from pitted cones?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24129" CreationDate="2015-04-20T00:47:46.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went with the original integrated covers on my hubs without the pressed on caps on the cones.  To remove the caps from the cones I just used a sock to sit on the dust cap and give it a good whack with a hammer and it came right off.  If my new cones ever do come with a large enough cover then I would probably go with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T00:47:46.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30099" CreationDate="2015-04-20T01:36:25.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, to answer you question - no, it's not practical &lt;em&gt;for me&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is a question of personal safety, no-one can make your decision for you. So in the rest of this answer I will try to set out the issues. It's fair to say that the issue of cycling helmets has been contentious in the past, so I'll give a recap of that. I say &lt;em&gt;in the past&lt;/em&gt; because most Western countries have laws requiring cyclists to wear helmets. The contention now comes from small numbers of die-hards (pun intended).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legality&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, you would need to find out if it's &lt;em&gt;legal&lt;/em&gt; to wear a motor-bike helmet on a bicycle. &lt;s&gt;Most (western) countries&lt;/s&gt; Australia and New Zealand have laws requiring cyclists to wear helmets that are approved for that use (thanks to @7thGalaxy for the correction). The approval process usually involves the local national standards and testing bodies. Before a helmet can be sold as a cycling helmet is has to go through an approval process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect that a motor-bike helmet would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have been approved for use as a cycling helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Protection&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of a helmet is to provide head and brain protection in the event of impact. Bicycle helmets are designed with a harder outer shell and a softer crushable liner. The outer shell protects the crushable liner from the wear and tear of regular use, and resists abrasion should your head be sliding along the bitumen pavement. Without the shell the liner would quickly wear through, exposing your head to the road. Some very cheap helmets omit the outer shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crushable liner has been calibrated absorb the shock of impact at cyclist speeds. It absorbs the impact by deforming; the peak forces are absorbed and are not transmitted to your skull and brain. This is why helmets must be replaced after a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The motor-bike helmet protection system will be calibrated for higher impact speeds, and so &lt;em&gt;will give little brain protection at cyclist speeds&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two sides to safety. Firstly, is the product safe to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Safe to use primarily means not impairing the cyclists vision or hearing. From your image it is not clear how the motor-bike helmet performs here. But it will certainly be heavier than a bike helmet, making it harder to turn your head frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lack of ventilation also means that your head and brain could be subject to higher than normal temperatures. The evidence is clear that when the human brain is too hot &lt;em&gt;it does not function as well, especially in decision making&lt;/em&gt;. My recollection is that it leads to riskier decisions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we get to the main point of contention. The research is clear that if we provide people with safety equipment then &lt;em&gt;on average&lt;/em&gt; they take more risks. It is very politically incorrect, but there is good evidence to suggest that helmets have done nothing to improve cyclist safety. Proponents of this view argue that any improvements in safety is due to better roads, better laws, better driver education.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That argument means that if you &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; safer in the motor-bike helmet, then you are more likely to do more dangerous things. The road is dangerous enough as it is; &lt;em&gt;don't add to your own danger&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comfort&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The helmet pictured is black and has no vents. It will be hot and uncomfortable to wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Style&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None. But that could be an attraction to some :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On every perspective I can think of, my advice is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;don't do it&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you have to decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T11:40:21.367" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T11:40:21.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8170" CreationDate="2015-04-20T07:54:40.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Titanium alloys are typically made of Aluminum and Vanadium: e.g. on a 3AL/2.5V Ti bike Frames for instance there is  3% Aluminum, 2.5% Vanadium and the rest is Titanium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main benefits of Titanium is no corrosion, immense resistance to fatigue (material failure due to cyclic constraints), and weight indirectly (i.e. stronger material allows to use thinner tubing, for bike frames for instance). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Titanium parts are usually very very long lasting, mainly due to resistance to fatigue and corrosion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19148" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T12:02:35.507" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T12:02:35.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8170" CreationDate="2015-04-20T10:06:55.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For skewers, other than weight and durability, one unmentioned advantage of titanium is its &lt;strong&gt;resistance to corrosion&lt;/strong&gt;. Rusty steel skewers can get stuck inside your hub, forcing expensive replacement which is much less likely with titanium (you should still grease them though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19001" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T20:52:57.543" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T20:52:57.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30113" CreationDate="2015-04-20T11:19:43.223" Score="3" ViewCount="1209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized Allez 16 (2011) road bike with Shimano 2300 STI shifters and no-name brand caliper brakes. The brakes have always felt a bit mushy despite my best efforts at adjustment/replacing pads, so I'm thinking of upgrading them, perhaps to Shimano 105s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am under the impression that more or less any model of road caliper brakes can be used with any kind of brake lever/STI shifter. Is this correct, or should I be worried about compatibility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19149" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T13:58:07.643" Title="Are road caliper brakes usually compatible with any model of lever/STI shifter?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30116" CreationDate="2015-04-20T11:41:37.190" Score="1" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been commuting by a bike for 6 months on a 9 speed bike. It has a standard squared taped BB and cranks screwed on it. Now I have heard those Hollowtech 2 cranks and BB and how they can improve efficiency and putting bearings outside BB (not sure if I am saying it correctly). &#xA;So how good they are? I could actually feel the improvement when I changed from a 32mm tyre to a 23 mm high pressure tyre couple of months ago. I am thinking of upgrading if worthwhile. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17275" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T22:09:03.723" Title="Hollowtech 2 cranks and bb how good they are?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30111" CreationDate="2015-04-20T13:58:07.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much right -- you just have to make sure that the calipers have enough reach to brake (on an Allez, pretty much anything but a long reach caliper will work). There are some threads like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20295/use-of-shimano-long-reach-calipers-with-new-super-slr-brake-levers-shifters?rq=1&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; with some new Shimano stuff (new Super SLR) which is technically a ymmv/you're on your own, but it should work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you should check when replacing the brake is that the cabling was done properly -- bad brake cable routing, for example, can make your brakes not feel good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T13:58:07.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1474" CreationDate="2015-04-20T14:58:32.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a comparison from REI's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/car-racks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Car Racks: How to Choose&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roof Rack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/TYEhQXfs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;roof&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt;: $$$&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: Most versatile system; more secure and stable; unimpeded access to car doors or rear trunk&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: Some hoisting and reaching required; wind resistance; may not fit in low-clearance spaces&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hitch Rack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/QSjlIKus.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hitch&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt;: $$&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: Simple installation; easy to load and access bikes; some models allow clear access to rear door; good for frequent use&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: Advanced models can be expensive; basic models interfere with access to trunk or rear cargo area; bikes may sway&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trunk Rack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/lC8EfMds.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;trunk&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt;: $&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: Less expensive; portable; easy to load and access bikes; can be used on multiple vehicles; good for occasional use&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: Interferes with access to trunk or hatch; bikes may sway and contact one another  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spare-Tire Rack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/bm3RlUns.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;tire&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt;: $$&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: Easy to load and access bikes; provide clear access to trunk/rear door&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: Dependent on tire size; can carry 2 bikes max; bikes may sway  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Truck Rack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/iOpXBNms.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;truck&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt;: $$&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: Easy to load and access bikes; can handle heavier loads; can be attached to tool boxes&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: Bikes dominate storage capacity within truck bed  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cargo Box&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/fpRdeuVs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cargo&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: not for bikes  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost&lt;/strong&gt;: $$$&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Pros&lt;/strong&gt;: Enclosed, lockable gear storage; can hold wet or dirty items outside of vehicle interior; keeps gear out of sight&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Cons&lt;/strong&gt;: Cost; wind resistance; may not fit under low-clearance spaces  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6797" LastEditorUserId="6797" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T15:37:08.100" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T15:37:08.100" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13736" CreationDate="2015-04-20T17:59:18.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First: don't try truing a wheel you rely on without experience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If spoke tension is high on the side of the rim deviation, then you can improve the true by adjusting spoke tension. If spoke tension is low on the side of the deviation or the tensions are roughly even, then the rim is bent and trying to fix it with tension will make the tension balance worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can hear tones pretty well, you can check tension by plucking spokes. Either pluck at the cross (in which case be aware you're conflating the tension of two spokes) or damp the spokes at the cross and pluck one spoke rimward of the cross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On undished wheels, you can compare the tensions of spokes on the two sides (i.e., coming from different flanges of the hub) directly. If the wheel is dished (as with geared rear or most disc-brake wheels), you'll want to pay attention to the &lt;em&gt;relative&lt;/em&gt; tension &lt;em&gt;with respect to same-side spokes&lt;/em&gt;, and compare that between spokes on both sides of the wheel near the deviation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I have a road rear wheel with a rim deviation to the left (non-drive), I know the right-flange (drive) spokes are at higher tension than the left, so I can't compare tones directly. I'll pluck some left-flange spokes near the deviation, and then some other left-flange spokes around the wheel, and do likewise for right-flange spokes. If left-flange spokes at the rim deviation are tighter than average, and right-flange spokes are looser than average, then I can true with a spoke wrench. If it's the opposite, or if the sides are the same, then it's a judgement call (regarding whether truing will be able to correct the deviation while maintaining acceptably even tension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19153" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T17:59:18.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30112" CreationDate="2015-04-20T19:32:16.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are easier to install and maintain, and depending can be lighter.  However, it's not likely that you will notice any great difference in efficiency commuting on them.  Probably not even 10% of the difference you would notice in a tire change (assuming the old bottom bracket and cranks were in good working order).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T22:09:03.723" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T22:09:03.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30118" CreationDate="2015-04-20T21:12:13.520" Score="0" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Portland, Oregon and I need a bike to ride to work. It's about five miles, with one steep but not long hill. I used to have a track bike with a freewheel that was really nice for Salem, which was a flat commute. Sadly stolen. I loved how fast it accelerated, it helped a bunch in traffic. Hills were killers on my knees, ouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was thinking about maybe two or three gears. But as a cassette in back would make it less snappy off the line, I was imagining a front derailleur only. Is that implausible? Maybe having a chain tensioner at all would kill any snap. Do they make a Hammerschmidt for road bikes? Are there any frames designed for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame something closer to a racing geometry than a touring geometry, since I won't be taking many long rides, if any. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, weight, like to keep it not much over 20lbs. So, not a hybrid frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes I am in love with from years of mountain biking, and would help control and maintain stopping power in this rainy climate; I don't know how heavy the road discs are however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So.. a track bike with disc brakes and a front derailleur? Start with a cyclocross? Is there the perfect bike out there already made? Am I nuts? Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit, to respond to comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I mean by &quot;snappy&quot; - I found that using a super tight chain on a single back ring lets me apply speed faster than one where i have to take up slack first - i can make quicker adjustments to unaware cars. It's the same reason that I like disc brakes, more control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if my experiences and desires bother some of you, that wasn't my intent. I follow all the bike laws and ride politely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@mattnz Thanks for that suggestion, I will look at internal hubs again. A few years ago I looked at Rohloff's but I decided they weren't a good choice, mostly due to weight and ease of maintenance, but it appears that they have updated their lines quite a bit. I think SRAM has one too. Still be heavy I think which would add to angular momentum. There are also the Schlumpf Speed Drive planetary front cranksets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13173" LastEditorUserId="13173" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T23:09:40.137" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T23:09:40.137" Title="Want a snappy scrambler for stumptown" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30117" CreationDate="2015-04-20T22:15:14.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With what you envision - A single cog in the rear and a triple crankset up front - you would still require a rear derailleur to take up the chain slack since the chainrings have such large difference in diameter. A chain tensioner would not cope with the slack created from shifting from a 42 to a 32 tooth chainring, for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you'll need a rear derailleur for a multiple gear solution anyway, you might as well go with a cassette and single chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For disc brakes you're limited to mechanical (like Avid BB7s, TRP Spyre) or the cable actuated hydraulic calipers (TRP HyRd) unless you spring for shimano Di2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest you'll get to a track/road frame that has the necessarry reinforcements and mounts for disc brakes is likely a cyclocross bike or some of the newer endurance road bikes (Trek Domane as an example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're unlikely to get something exactly as you envision, but with a few compromises (cyclocross with a cassette) you should be able to make things work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18416" LastEditorUserId="18416" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T15:51:21.793" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T15:51:21.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-20T22:43:36.513" Score="1" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pretty cheap bike (29&quot; Genesis Two-Nine) which served me very well for 2 years and now the front wheel got stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are front wheels universally replaceable and if yes, what are properties which must be equal? For example, my bike had a 29&quot; mountain bike front wheel with a disk brake. Will any wheel with these properties match the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19156" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T23:00:21.673" Title="Front wheel compatibility" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30119" CreationDate="2015-04-20T22:57:01.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 things to worry about and you've covered two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Size, the wheel rim should match the current size.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brake compatibility, if you have disc brakes you need a compatible hub, could be 6 bolt or centerlock. It has to be compatible with the rotor you will also purchase. If you have rim brakes you would purchase a rim brake compatible rim. (you can use a disc hub on a rim brake).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Axle compatibility, there are current at 4 main axle widths and lengths 9x100mm QR, 15x100mm thru axle QR, 20x110 thru axle and now 15x110 thru axle. You need to select the hub that is compatible with your fork. A 15x100mm wheel can work on a 9x100mm fork with the use of a shim.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T22:57:01.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30119" CreationDate="2015-04-20T23:00:21.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a front wheel you need to match size (29&quot;) and width (not critical - look at similar tire size), hub (Being cheap its probably 9mmQR but there is also 15mmQR and 20mmQR) and rotor size.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rotor size was probably 160mm, but may have been 180mm (They don't give it in the specs). If you end up with the wrong size on the wheel, its easy to change the rotor or get an adaptor for the disc calliper. Have a look at the calliper on the front fork - if its mounted on an adaptor the adaptor should have a disc size printed on it (and if not, likely a 180mm rotor). If there's no adaptor, its most likely a 160mm rotor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T23:00:21.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30123" CreationDate="2015-04-21T00:54:02.180" Score="0" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;What exact torque should be applied to secure the double gear fixing bolt (Y-1FM98020) ?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BJtOB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Double gear fixing bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what tool is usually used to fix the nut without damaging it while tightening the bolt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Sym2o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Double gear fixing nut&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19158" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T21:30:44.627" Title="Shimano FC-M521 middle chainring replacement" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30122" CreationDate="2015-04-21T01:18:29.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair, Shimano steel chainring bolts 70-95 inlbs. Aluminum 44-88 inlbs.  A Park Tool CNW-2 chainring tool or similar is used to hold the slotted nut and an allen wrench turns the bolt. Depending on the size of the chainrings you may be able to use a slotted screwdriver to hold the nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7eKod.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Park CNW-2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T21:30:44.627" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T21:30:44.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30128" CreationDate="2015-04-21T05:24:13.037" Score="1" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought Rockrider 520 with Tektro Auriga Comp hydraulic disk brakes on it. I didn't ride it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both brake rotors have a very slight bent and no rubbing. Just nearing both pads every round and braking power seems good. (For me as an unexperienced rider.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a caliper alignment by loosening two bolts, brake hard and tightening. Before this there was slight rubbing every round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I supposed to do something? Is this normal? Is driving safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19126" LastEditorUserId="19126" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T12:25:03.367" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T12:25:03.367" Title="Rotors bent very slightly but no rubbing. Is driving safe?" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30016" CreationDate="2015-04-21T07:07:44.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others wrote, first tune your fork, and keep it clean. I use some silicon spray as well on the stanchion tubes and dust seals.&#xA;If you have coil spring in your fork (not air only), be sure it's for your weight - if not, swap it.&#xA;If still not satisfied, you can check how low or high-end is the damper cartridge in your fork. Cheaper forks can feel OK but not in a wide range of conditions. High-end dampers are more versatile, perform better on high speeds too.&#xA;My opinion is that &quot;open oil bath&quot; system forks are the smoothest, though not the lightest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17339" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T07:07:44.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29654" CreationDate="2015-04-21T09:00:49.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soda cans do the trick, cf this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Seat-post-adaptor-made-with-soda-cans/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tuto&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7kI2U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13597" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T09:00:49.303" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30124" CreationDate="2015-04-21T10:29:02.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A slightly warped or bent rotor may cause some brake pulsation. The rotor can be straightened with a Park tool DT-2 truing tool. I have had good luck using a large adjustable wrench. Close the jaws around rotor and gently bend the rotor. You most likely won't get it perfect but you can get it back to usable condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T10:29:02.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24134" CreationDate="2015-04-21T14:16:50.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding 50K to work everyday from May to November (Eastern Canada) on an old Peugeot steel frame converted to fixed gear (&lt;a href=&quot;http://johnnylecanuck.com/2012/08/the-french-fixie-conversion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;build guide&lt;/a&gt;) since the ride is mostly flat. Although I am considering a touring/cyclocross bike because I can no longer stand the grinding into the wind. There is something to be said about gears. Also since I started commuting, I have been through many chains, 3 bottom brackets, numerous tubes, multiple tire, one headset, two sets and 3 sets of pedals. I'm starting to believe that the so called low maintenance fixed/single speed theory is simply fallacy. And again the wind really sucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with keeping clothes at work if you have good access to a dry cleaner. I simply bring in clean shirt and sundries. I have also ditched the laptop altogether and carry an iPad back and forth and use either Remote Desktop via VPN or access to a VM through a browser for the medium work load. Keeping it light is key. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12835" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T14:16:50.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30124" CreationDate="2015-04-21T14:30:09.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the rotors just came like that, complain and make them send you new ones. You are on your right to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it is true you can successfully true a disc brake rotor, even with a normal wrench tool like &lt;a href=&quot;http://contentinjection.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/heavy-duty-adjustable-crescent-wrench.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, but they are also extremely &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00MOA09N2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cheap&lt;/a&gt;, so it might be worth just to get new ones. You know, new is new :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T14:30:09.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25235" CreationDate="2015-04-21T14:56:47.117" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike radar did a pretty good article on this, which you can find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/article/chain-or-belt-drive-which-is-faster-36074/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal opinion is Carbon Drives/Shaft drive are quite fancy but pretty useless. They are more expensive, require specific frames which are usually quite expensive, and their try to solve a problem that simply does not exist. With a carbon/shaft you can only run a single gear hub (maybe with internal gears, but that's not the point). A normal bike chain lasts a few years in mountain/road riding and keep in mind rear derailleurs play a huge part diminishing a chain life. On a single speed bike the chain pretty much has no wear and just lasts and lasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding maintenance, if you live in a dry climate, the oil on the chain will last a few months, and if you constantly ride on the rain I don't believe you don't have 20 seconds per month to spray it with a good oil. Because that is all it needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have a bunch of cheap (around $150) single speed bikes with chain that have been working perfectly for a few years with once a year maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please keep in mind this is an opinion assuming money is a conditional when searching for a new bike. i.e., I am saying that for practical purposes, when you justify them comparing features and price, chainless options are not worth it. In the same it is not &quot;worth it&quot; to have a Ferrari, even though I sure would love one in my garage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastEditorUserId="19084" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T20:46:54.980" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T20:46:54.980" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29206" CreationDate="2015-04-21T15:16:11.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That crank is unusual and therefore it is hard to give you advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be the bearings because they don't usually make a big noise, but&#xA;rather make the crank harder to move around (you can perfectly feel bad bearings if you try moving it with your hand and feel resistance/side-to-side movement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you install the crank without the clutch mechanism, or simply install another crank, and test if the noise goes away? My bet is it will :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the noise goes away, the best is to contact Giant support or a representative and see what they can do for you (send you new pieces, help troubleshooting, etc). If they can't do anything for you, at least ask them to advise on a solution, or to suggest a list of cranks that are compatible with the electric system, in case a normal crank does not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While testing keep in mind this can be a malfunction piece which might fail to perform at the worst possible moment, so take it easy. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T02:14:39.300" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T02:14:39.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30134" CreationDate="2015-04-21T17:14:10.247" Score="5" ViewCount="1589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bicycle that after a some amount of use (at least 3000 kilometres since I bought it from someone else) began having some problem on one of its pedals.&#xA;Basically at every single rotation, there is a snap in some place, like if there was a crack inside the pedal. That snap its almost impossible to feel when going low on pressure applied, but reasonably felt when running at normal speed, and feels like something is definitely not right and its going to break when either sprinting or climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closer to the left the foot is, the less I can notice it, (its the right pedal), what can be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it too dangerous to keep going with it this way? By dangerous I mean, the pedal simply getting lose or something like that and go off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weird thing is that its a fully metal platform pedal, like this one:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sTOum.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bicycle pedal&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is there to break? Aren't these pedals just a shaft and the solid outside of the pedal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19141" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2020-04-24T23:09:10.183" Title="Pedal snaps at every rotation" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30133" CreationDate="2015-04-21T17:23:56.923" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are bearings inside the pedal that are meant to keep things running smoothly.  If it was just the pedal itself around a metal shaft, then things would probably wear out quite quickly. Some pedals are serviceable, while others are meant to be replaced completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are sure that the snaps is coming from inside the pedal, and not from inside the bottom bracket or where the crank arm mounts to the bottom bracket, then it's probably a good idea to just replace the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New pedals, especially platform pedals, can be obtained quite cheap and can be replaced basic tools you may already have.  If you don't have tools, the bike shop would probably install them for free if you asked nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T17:23:56.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30133" CreationDate="2015-04-21T17:34:54.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt it is the pedal.&#xA;If the pedal bearings were going out it would not be in just one position. &#xA;Bit still start with eliminating the pedals as it is easy.&#xA;If you have a spare set of pedal try them or take pedals from another bike. &#xA;To really be sure put the bad pedals on another bike and test.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely the crank is loose or the crank bearing are going out.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Test the crank for any play. Grab the crank arms and try in twist and pull in all directions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be a number of other things as it is hard to find the source of clicks or snaps on a bicycle. It could even be a chain ring or headset. I had snap that turned out to be a loose headset but it felt like it was coming from the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T13:59:45.797" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T13:59:45.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30106" CreationDate="2015-04-21T19:56:07.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Ball bearings depend on the continuous presence of a very thin -millionths of an inch - film of lubricant between balls and races, and between the cage, bearing rings, and balls.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pitting happen very often when user over-tighten the hub, or forget to re-adjust the hub between winter/summer (depends on where you live, in Scotland I need to give a proper re-adjustment every half a year); especially from Winter to Summer, if you have the hub adjusted in the winter for good fit. This leads to little/no lubricant between the balls and the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use good quality Ball Bearing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use grease specifically designed for bearings. So that you do not have to service the hub too often&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't go too far before seeing the picture of your cones to see what actually caused the failure of your hub. Could you please upload a picture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: from the picture, it looks like the cone is either (1) being installed incorrectly (pitting appears only on a particular side), (2) Over-loading or wrong handling, (3)less likely, but I will not rule-out, is that the cone is machined with defects: asymmetrical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T15:03:57.967" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T15:03:57.967" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30139" CreationDate="2015-04-21T22:29:41.000" Score="15" ViewCount="36143" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am going on a 200mi ride (over 3 days) soon. I was at the bike store getting my bike a once-over before I go, and I was told by the bike specialist, that I would really want to consider buying some bike shorts (the tight spandex kind) with padding. While that is fine, and I am going to take his advice, I dont know anything about wearing said bike shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you wear underwear with them? Can I wear shorts over them? Do I really need them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19165" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T18:18:12.113" Title="Bike Shorts, Do you wear things under/over them?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30138" CreationDate="2015-04-21T22:41:32.333" Score="24" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you wear underwear with them? Can I wear shorts over them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely not. Nothing over or under, just the bike shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I really need them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 200 miles? Hell yeah. Your ass will thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T22:41:32.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30011" CreationDate="2015-04-22T01:25:57.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it's 100% legal, but I figure if they're going to pass me on the left as we're approaching a redlight, I'm going to pass them on the right after they're stopped at the light. Turnabout is fair play.  As someone else wrote don't pass or pull alongside the last car in the queue as they might want to turn right on red (left on red in left hand drive countries).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T01:25:57.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29445" CreationDate="2015-04-22T01:56:27.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheelbuilding machines can be configured for a .1mm precision. But the choice of tolerance is up to the wheel factory. Best machine-built wheels are trued to this maximum of .1mm precision, which is pretty good. Most man-built wheels have a run-out around .5 mm when new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when you are building your own wheel, or you are fixing it, a tolerance of around 1 mm is acceptable imho. More than 2mm and you will have problems with brake pads or you may feel some shaking while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4676" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T01:56:27.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30138" CreationDate="2015-04-22T05:11:38.290" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yikes. 200 miles, just like that? Have you been training for it at all? I'm not talking about the endurance aspect -- I'm assuming you're in good enough shape to even consider it -- I'm talking about the physical act of your rear end being on a bike seat for 15-20 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you need the bike shorts, 'taint no question about it. You also need to be ready for the very strong possibility that all your below-the-waist parts will be very angry at you. From the chafing, to the weight of your body on those parts for many, many hours... especially if you're a guy, they way your seat feels after an hour or two may be nothing compared to hour 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't wear anything over or under, but for that long a ride (especially if I'm gonna be sweaty) I like to shake a good healthy dose of Gold Bond down there to keep too much sweat from getting trapped. Please note that the experience of Gold Bond on your privates isn't something you dive right into the first time. Try a tiny bit first to make sure you don't have a bad reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously consider buying Chamois Buttr (your bike shop probably has some) and applying it liberally inside the shorts before putting them on, to reduce friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And most importantly, if at all possible, take as many long rides in these bike shorts as possible before your 200 mile multi-day trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19169" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T05:11:38.290" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30148" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:03:49.013" Score="0" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of purchasing a new wheelset for my road bike. Do wheels ordered online usually arrive ready to ride, or do they require some construction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18756" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:06:55.557" Title="Buying a new wheelset online: Do they come ride-ready?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30147" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:06:55.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on where/how you purchase them and the quality of the wheel, but generally pre-built wheels need a check-over for appropriate spoke tension/truing out of the box. You can either check this yourself or pay a bike shop to do this for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can avoid these checks at your own risk, obviously. But, I wouldn't recommend it, especially if they aren't high quality wheels to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:06:55.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30152" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:15:09.323" Score="1" ViewCount="5513" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you reset the GSC10 sensor on Garmin edge 510?  I want to be able to re-pair it to my device.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19168" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T20:36:51.177" Title="Garminn GSc10 reset problem" Tags="&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28825" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:16:43.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best option is to change the crank. A 2015 Deore or a SLX crank are not only extremely good value for money but they also carry a lot of modern technologies (search the net for reviews, everybody loves them) comparing with your old 2002 product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A modern 2015 Deore (cheapest, entry level) works much better than a 2002 XTR because 13 years of development really make a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and happy riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:16:43.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21181" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:25:24.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've painted a number of bikes now and I always run into the same problem. I was advised to use etching paint on bare metal before priming, but this did not help. It's really frustrating because you spend a lot of time preparing the surface and painting, then the paint scratches the first time something hard (or even not so hard...I got a scratch just accidentally banging the bike frame against a wooden door) touches the new paint job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've come to the conclusion that this is just the way it is with home-made paint jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was restoring a really nice/expensive bike, I would get it professionally painted, but this reduces the amount of pride you have for you bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19182" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:25:24.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30149" CreationDate="2015-04-22T19:05:24.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the menu that shows the paired sensors delete the sensor you want to remove. 510 will ask for a confirmation. Then re-pair the sensor. It may help to remove the battery from the sensor and putting it back after a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T19:05:24.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30138" CreationDate="2015-04-22T21:10:31.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow this is getting some discussion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes for a multiple day trip you want bike shorts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing under as you don't what anything that will bunch up or have seams.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for over if you don't want the tight shorts there are mountain and commuter shorts with a baggy shell (with pockets).  That is probably what you want.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally you would a have clean pair for each day.  What can happen is the bacteria will build up and then if you chafe things go bad.   At a minimum turn em inside out and let them dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day get out of the bike shorts as soon as possible and lets things air out.  If you can take a shower as soon as possible (and I like baby powder after the shower).  Other wise use like a baby wipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a few 40+ miles rides just to get your butt used to it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also form, saddle, and bike fit are factors.  A big cushy saddle is more friction.  A smooth cadence not rocking on the seat is good.  Come out of the seat every once in a while and let things breath.  On a downhill you can rock to the side and let things breath.  OK no way to say this pretty but pull your junk up get it out of harms way.   Be aware of your butt. I have seen people get fatigued and just pedal and pedal in one position.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things cannot go that bad in 3 days but on longer rides things can really go bad and you can't recover on the ride.  Has not happened to me but I have seen people with miserable multiple days rides due to poor crotch maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bike a lot and for me I put on bike shorts over 40 miles and clean them after each ride.  You don't want to chafe with a lot of bacteria in you shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a fan of the ointments / butters but I know a lot of people are.  If you cannot shower what happens is they hold bacterial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-17T00:47:14.023" LastActivityDate="2017-02-17T00:47:14.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30156" CreationDate="2015-04-22T21:14:03.730" Score="0" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike chain is worn to the 1% gauge on my indicator but only on certain links.  I could check a different link and it won't fit at all. However it would drop right through on certain links. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be looking at replacing the chain and rear cassette? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T00:22:54.247" Title="Bike chain worn to 1% according to indicator tool" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30154" CreationDate="2015-04-23T00:22:54.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would replace the chain at such condition (if there are 3 or more places or if there are multiple links).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;About the cassette it's another question, and if you can't decide yourself, it should be checked in LBS probably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T00:22:54.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30168" CreationDate="2015-04-23T02:08:39.210" Score="0" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently bought a 2014 Specialized hardrock 26&quot; disc XC hardtail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already taken it out on the trails. I've done research and found out that cross country bikes have less travel than all-mountain. I've already done a couple of small jumps but I'm afraid I'll mess up the bike really fast. Although my XC has double wall rims it still concerns me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please let me know if I bought the right bike, and if it can handle jumps around 2 feet high? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19185" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T13:50:42.747" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T17:21:52.053" Title="Did I buy the right mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30159" CreationDate="2015-04-23T04:31:41.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Presumption the OP is not over about 100kg, even then, I think my answer holds) Don't worry about the bike. It can handle a lot more than you can. For years I rode with no suspension and never broke a bike. I then got, what was then a great fork - 60mm travel, and did not break the bike. I usually pulled out at more than 1 meters air on those bikes.... usually...... I got older and wiser... now I ride XC and wheels rarely leave the ground, 100mm is more than enuf. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some would say with two foot jumps, you have got the wrong bike. You should have got a $3000 all mountain FS. But if all you could afford was the one you have, you got the right bike. A better bike would cost more, a FS in that price  bracket would be a BSO and I would say it was the wrong bike, you shoulda got a hard tail. A HT with more travel would have lower quality components...... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what should you do - learn to ride lightly - land softly. Bigger travel lets people who can't ride land 2 foot jumps and look OK doing it. You won't hide poor skills behind your bike, and you will not be forgiven if (when) you screw up a landing - it will make you a better rider.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just reiterating  -worry more about yourself than the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T04:31:41.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T09:14:59.460" Score="6" ViewCount="14911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 5 pair of extra wheels, which I would like to store on the wall efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a little skittish about storing them using the rim since some of them are carbon wheels and I don't want to risk scratches. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19188" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T13:43:45.860" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T01:05:04.760" Title="How can I store my extra wheels on the wall efficiently, without hanging them by the rim?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T10:44:40.610" Score="1" ViewCount="9266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1999 Specialized Allez Comp with original Ultegra 9 components (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1999&amp;amp;Brand=Specialized&amp;amp;Model=Allez%20Comp&amp;amp;Type=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;description&lt;/a&gt;). Things are starting to get old (e.g. right shifter doesn't work well). I think it is time to partially convert to Sora. But I have a few confirmation questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will Sora shifters work with the brakeset of my original bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have 2 Ultegra cassettes.  Would I be able to mix an Ultegra 9 cassette with a Sora chain and chain rings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19189" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T13:46:42.150" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T14:34:35.307" Title="Is Ultegra 9 speed compatible with Sora 9 speed?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;groupsets&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30161" CreationDate="2015-04-23T11:22:16.137" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As suggested by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/4206/5337&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, there's really no problem with hanging wheels or even an entire bike up by the rims. It's a good idea to pad the hook to avoid scratches, but this should be easy enough with some cheap foam or even tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, a narrow shelf with some blocks either side of each wheel to stop them rolling away would work and take up little space. I imagine you could even use a short loop of rope to hold a couple of wheels. To avoid touching the rims, you could loop this between the spokes and around the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wall is rough, cover it with some cardboard or thin foam/rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T15:58:23.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30161" CreationDate="2015-04-23T13:41:46.030" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I agree that there are no real risks to string your wheels by the rim, there are a number of DIY and commercial wall mounted racks for hanging wheels at the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelzrack.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wheelzrack&lt;/a&gt; makes one good option, and even integrates a storage shelf for shoes and helmets. They support up to for sets of wheels, which may be a good option in your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wXRlA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wXRlA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wheelzrack example from home page&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feedback sports used to offer a &lt;a href=&quot;http://feedbacksports.com/shop/Single-Wheel-Arm-Black-P105C28.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wheel Arm&lt;/a&gt; system, which had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://feedbacksports.com/shop/Wheel-Plate-Mount-P86C28.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bolt-to-wall mounting option&lt;/a&gt; (note: the Wheel Arm is no longer listed on home page but they sell alternate models).  These are designd for shop displays, but will work in the home as well, assuming your significant other is tolerant. :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that is helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2016-12-10T00:49:34.563" LastActivityDate="2016-12-10T00:49:34.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30162" CreationDate="2015-04-23T13:47:37.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, and Yes. Brifters will work fine and the cassettes will work fine. You can use any 9 speed Shimano road components in the drivetrain (crankset+chainrings with appropriate bb, chain, cassette, derailleurs) and the rear derailleur can be a &amp;lt;10 speed mountain derailleur as well. The chain can be made by KMC/SRAM/Shimano/etc. and the cassette can be Shimano/SRAM as well. I'd also run new cables+cable housing in the process as well, obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the shift from Ultegra to Sora in this case might make the bike feel even better (contrary to PeteH's comments). This is due to trickle-down -- the features of old Tiagra/105/etc. have slowly moved down to the lower levels, so you get the good ergonomics and stuff of new Sora. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a general thing, I'd probably just get any 9 speed Shimano/SRAM cassette in the future which has the spacing you like, as well as a SRAM/KMC chain for 9 speed (these come with quick links which are less annoying than the inane Shimano rivet). I don't see the point in scoping out for Ultegra-grade parts for this bike unless it makes you feel good -- just a waste of money given the past 16 years of engineering, since people will be hawking them at higher prices for people who just have to have the complete set. A Sora grade chain will be fine, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:47:37.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30162" CreationDate="2015-04-23T13:48:47.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To directly answer your question, yes, 9 speed Ultegra is fully compatible with 9 speed Sora.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since even Sora is shifting to 10 speed, though, it might be time to consider upgrading the entire group set to 10 or 11 speed, if only for future parts availability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:48:47.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30159" CreationDate="2015-04-23T13:56:31.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What your bike can handle is usually more a matter of your skill level than it is the bike, at least to a certain point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you watch mountain bike videos, you will see guys on hardtail &quot;XC bikes&quot; take drops much larger than 2 feet. BUT, they have skill, lots of practice, and likely many broken bikes or bones, or both in their past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about the bike you have.  Ride it, learn as much as you can, and when it begins limiting your rides, replace it with something more suitable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting off on a hardtail offroad is the best way to learn to skillfully pick a line, and be smooth on your bike. Buying a longer travel machine too early can stunt your growth as a rider, IMHO.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, you already bought it.  The time to do the research was before you swiped your credit card. :)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:56:31.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30162" CreationDate="2015-04-23T14:34:35.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said: Yes, 9 speed Shimano gear is all interchangeable. That said, have you considered having your current stuff professionally maintained by a good LBS? I am riding a 1993 Shimano 105 groupset that has well over 100k miles on it and it shifts just as crisp as it did when it only had 1k miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure they not just adjust the derailleurs but also replace your cables, housing, cassette, the chainring if it's worn and soak everything in some degreaser. You'll be surprised how much life you can get out of a well-maintained drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18784" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T14:34:35.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30171" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-23T15:00:05.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The three major component manufacturers – Shimano, Campagnolo, and SRAM – build several classes of components which are called groupsets. They are sets typically consisting of brakes, shifters, drivetrain, and hubs that are designed for certain price ranges and use cases. Off-the-shelf bikes are in many cases equipped with components from one certain groupset, sometimes complemented with particular parts from higher or lower priced groupsets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions with this tag should be about&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;properties of certain groupsets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use cases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the compatibility/interoperability of&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;components from different groupsets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;parts from different model years of the same groupset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T14:03:17.130" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T14:03:17.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30172" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-23T15:00:05.283" Score="0" Body="Groupsets are classes of bicycle components built by the three major component manufacturers Shimano, Campagnolo, and SRAM (add the respective manufacturer tag as well). Use this tag for questions concerning the time and feature evolution of those components as well as compatibility issues when mixing components from different groupsets." OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T02:28:29.257" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T02:28:29.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1800" CreationDate="2015-04-23T16:19:56.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not read all answers and comments so I might have missed a link already here, but I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is the best site for for arguments about all to do with cycling and road safety. On the right hand side you will find many internal links to posts in themes, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/search/label/what%20works&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'what works'&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/search/label/cycle%20paths&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'cycle paths'&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not able to give you useful quotes from each of the links as they contain so much information and the themes might not really meet the arguments or more likely be just about one detail instead of about all. And he has links to other sites, often with good arguments in their own right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far for David Hembrow's site, from here on it is my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a Dutch cyclist, who grew up in the time our bike lanes and paths were at their lowest ebb, I do appreciate the lanes when done well. The famous painted line (also known as a painted bike gutter,) which every car driver ignores, is not much use. But when bikes are out in numbers and fill those lanes, the car drivers do pay more attention and parked cars will be rarer.&#xA;It took the Netherlands 30 years of experimenting and re-designing, and at this time there is a 'new' problem, too many cyclists for the existing infrastructure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Separate lanes next to the road will work only when the cyclists have the same comfort and rights as the cars, can cycle on without dismounting and road design is done in such way the entrances and exits to the lanes work. Combined cycling and walking use is only possible when cyclist and pedestrians do not want to use the lane at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike routes away from roads might work in some cases, it will not work in all.&#xA;When the route between two main locations passes a pinch point where no work will make for bike safety, but there is an alternative route which is a bit longer but away from the cars, it might be worth investing in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Netherlands we have no cycle lanes on roads that allow cars to go 80 km/h (about 50 mph) or faster, there will often be cycle paths near the road but they might also use a different, often shorter, route.&#xA;Roads that are 50 km/h (about 30 mph) have bike lanes on road although off road lanes or near bike paths are around as well.&#xA;Most roads that are 30 km/h (about 20 mph) do not usually have separate bike infrastructure but many of those roads are no through roads for cars but allow bikes to use them to connect to other parts of town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That makes that almost no bikes and cars need to use the same road surface without the need for bike lanes and paths everywhere. We still do have more bike paths in a small country than most big countries, not only relative to size but also in actual km/miles. While at the same time we have fewer car/bike accidents and deaths from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one area where deaths of cyclists goes up is in the over 65 (or even over 75) age group, as people keep cycling and now often get e-bikes and go the allowed 25km/h while not used to those speeds anymore, if they ever have been that is. Most of those accidents are one sided, the cyclist falling, hitting something near the path or road or just dropping over when having a heart attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2021-05-02T17:03:56.953" LastActivityDate="2021-05-02T17:03:56.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37014" CreationDate="2015-04-23T20:21:51.747" Score="2" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bought a new bike and rode it for a week. Unfortunately the spokes loosend until it was unrideable. No idea how this came about but it looks like I need someone to rebuilt the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a good wheel builder in East London or London in general? I need a wheel rebuilt and I thought I might just go with the best guy for the job!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: this is a Dutchie Dapper 3-Speed I bought four months old from someone who couldn't handle the size of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18552" LastEditorUserId="18552" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T07:54:31.967" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T09:18:01.260" Title="Wheel builder London?" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;london&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30186" CreationDate="2015-04-23T20:44:19.693" Score="3" ViewCount="1758" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bicycle was recently stolen and I'm now trying to get a replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the Merida Crossway XT Edition (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merida-bikes.com/de_de/bikes/cross/cross/2015/crossway-xt-edition-lady-2875.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.merida-bikes.com/de_de/bikes/cross/cross/2015/crossway-xt-edition-lady-2875.html&lt;/a&gt; ).&#xA;It is a wonderful bicycle. I made more than 3000 kilometers with it in about one year.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is considered a cross bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, besides this, there is the cyclo-cross type of bicycle that and I was looking at the Cyclo Cross 500 model (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merida-bikes.com/de_de/bikes/cross/cyclo-cross/2015/cyclo-cross-500-2871.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.merida-bikes.com/de_de/bikes/cross/cyclo-cross/2015/cyclo-cross-500-2871.html&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more differences but what I'm mostly concerned about is the lack of suspension on the fork. I read a bit and it looks like the cyclo cross bikes don't have normally such a suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm at that age when you start to feel stuff about your body (hopefully just in a phase thou) and for a couple of months I feel my back is not very happy. Therefore I am asking: &#xA;How big of a difference would I feel with a cyclo cross bike without a suspension in the fork? Is this type of frame absorbing more shocks/vibrations than the frame with suspension of is the the other way around? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also interested in other differences like the handlebars and the lack of some low speeds but while I might live with these, too much vibrations might be a deal breaker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks and happy riding!&#xA;Mario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19197" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T00:30:03.850" Title="Cyclo-cross versus Cross bike" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30179" CreationDate="2015-04-23T21:08:47.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know why, but Merida seems to be confusing the terminology. Cross is typically short-hand for cyclocross and used interchangeably. If you told me you were looking for a cross bike I would instantly assume you mean 'cyclocross.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes, are somewhat race specific and sacrifice suspension for speed. Most cyclocross forks are going to absorb some of the vibration, but not much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your back is giving you trouble, I would go with something that does have front suspension like the XT you had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T21:08:47.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23751" CreationDate="2015-04-23T21:33:50.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest cleaning the rotors with acetone (nail polish remover).  Not the colored kind with fragrance and other things in it but pure, clear acetone.  It's a bit more aggressive than isopropyl alcohol or ethanol and has worked better and faster in my own cleaning efforts. It's also cheap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're at it, I'd remove the brake pads, clean them as well, and then use a fine sandpaper to rough up the surface of the pads (scrape perpendicular to the direction of the rotor movement) and expose a new layer that is (hopefully) free of contamination.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't do anything, I'd bleed any air that is in the hydraulic system.  Air can compress and thus weaken the hydraulic force transferred to the calipers, whereas the mineral oil or other hydraulic fluid you're using is not compressible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-26T22:25:10.687" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T22:25:10.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30183" CreationDate="2015-04-23T21:42:09.580" Score="2" ViewCount="11434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to ship a rear wheel back to the manufacturer for a warranty issue (Mavic).  I'm wondering what the best, most secure way to package it is so that there can be no refutation that 'it was damaged in shipping' or something like that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What materials do I need and how do I package it?  I want to do it on the cheap because the manufacturer isn't covering the shipping cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T14:23:37.583" Title="How do I pack a road wheel for shipping?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30182" CreationDate="2015-04-23T21:56:25.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheels generally come in a cardboard box with plastic caps over the hub ends to protect them and a bit of other padding (for skewers and the like) added in.  Your LBS may have a few of these laying around for whatever size wheel you are sending back.  They may even be willing to do the package job for you and save you a bit of time for a reasonable amount of money.  If you just want the materials, I have known some shops to simply give them away (especially to known customers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stresses a wheel endures in a cardboard box during shipping are less than what they would endure properly installed on a bike.  Any damage more than that would completely destroy the cardboard box and be evident as a shipping mishap.  I recommend insurance from your shipper to protect against such mishaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T21:56:25.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30178" CreationDate="2015-04-23T22:06:54.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it happened in a week, you should take the bike back to the shop you bought the bike from and get them to give you a new wheel (or at least fix the one you have) for free [generally, they should have you take the bike in for a service after ~30 days / 50 miles, whichever comes first, for free]. Any competent bike shop should be able to replace a few broken spokes or adjust a wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good wheel builders are rare and expensive, and you also have to make sure the quality of wheel is worth being rebuilt if you're going to pay for their services (if its a cheap wheel or there has been damage, they may not be willing to reuse parts or will charge more than just getting a new wheel). Going to a good wheel builder is for people who need/want exacting properties of their wheel -- strength for touring, extra heavy people, etc. in many cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I don't know any in London (and I'm not sure its within SE's format to ask that question). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T22:06:54.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30179" CreationDate="2015-04-23T22:12:50.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about the term &quot;cross bike&quot;, which doesn't seem to be used in English-speaking countries (except as an abbreviation for cyclocross, but that's not what this bike is); perhaps it's what we call a &quot;hybrid bike&quot; (although hybrids usually don't have a suspension fork)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross bikes are a totally different category. They are intended for racing, and are basically road bikes ('Rennrad' in German) that can accomodate wider tires (usually up to around 40mm, although cyclocross racing only allows up to 33mm). Usually the rider's position is slightly more upright than on a pure road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A suspension fork is only useful for bumpy trails with rocks sticking out of the surface. In my experience, they don't absorb tiny bumps (like gravel) or vibration.  Unless you are riding on bumpy singletrack trails, a suspension fork doesn't do much.  What makes the most difference for comfort is the size of the tires. Wider tires (35mm, or better yet, 40mm) absorb a lot of small bumps and make the ride a lot more comfortable.  This is mostly because you can run wider tires at lower pressure, whereas narrow tires need high pressure and tend to feel rock-hard.  The tires on the cyclocross bike you linked to are 35mm, which is pretty decent, but 38mm would be better. Maybe that bike can accomodate 38mm or 40mm tires, which would be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people are under the impression that some frames have magical properties that allow them to absorb vibration, but in my experience this is just wishful thinking.  There may be a difference there, but it is tiny compared to the difference between thin tires and wide tires. Tire pressure makes a much bigger difference, with lower pressure being more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also asked about handlebars and lower gears.  I used to ride only mountain bikes and have recently started riding a cyclocross bike.  The more leaned-over position (lower handlebars) on the cyclocross bike is less comfortable and I'm getting a lot of pain in my shoulders and neck.  However, the drop bars allow multiple different positions for my hands, which reduces pain in my hands on long rides compared to my mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride steep hills, you are going to miss the lower gears of your old bike.  Unfortunately, the cyclocross bike you are considering has an 11-28 cassette and a 46-36 crank, which means that the lowest gear is 36/28 = 1.28, while your old bike had a lowest gear of 26/34 = 0.76.  That is a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; difference !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of the cyclocross bike is that the drop handlebars are more comfortable for your hands on long rides (more than 2 hours) and you can go quite a bit faster due to the more aerodynamic position.  My mountain bike with slick tires is very similar to your old bike, and I used to go around 16-17mph on that bike. With my cyclocross bike, I can usually go 19-21mph with similar effort.  I'm just hoping that the pain in the shoulders and neck will go away as I get more used to this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: if you really enjoyed your old 'cross' bike and are concerned with comfort, then a cyclocross bike is probably not a good choice for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T00:30:03.850" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T00:30:03.850" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T22:20:31.200" Score="3" ViewCount="5492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about suspension forks that have a pre-load knob only on one side. &#xA;I believe having it on one side only is not uncommon, and the other side is often equipped with a lock-out knob. &#xA;My question is: why is there a pre-load knob only on one side. Particularly for rather simple (low-end) coil suspension forks having only one knob seems to imply that you are pre-loading only one of the two coils in the fork, while the other spring would remain unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is this assumption (that only one of the two coils gets pre-loaded) correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Why is it done like this? (Would this be done to have the &quot;sag distance&quot; still be covered by the other coil?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Doesn't pre-loading only one of the two coils cause an unfavorable asymmetry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19199" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T23:08:57.997" Title="Pre-load of suspension forks on one side only" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30187" CreationDate="2015-04-23T23:03:10.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1: Your assumption is correct yes, only one side gets &quot;preloaded&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2:It's done like that mostly to save on expense and because a preload adjustment on both sides would be overly fiddly when the adjustment can be accomplished with one knob.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: Asymmetry, yes.  Unfavorable, not so much.  Forks are designed to be very stiff where they are not supposed to be suspending.  That being the case, the two sides should always move as a single unit, thus only one preload is necessary because ultimately the forks preload is going to be an average between the preload of each side.  That means expense and effort can be saved by putting adjustments on only one side that will ultimately affect the fork as a whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the shot below, the internals on a fork may be very different by side.  Suspension forks are designed with those stiff arches allow each side to move only as a unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JpUyg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fox Shock internals&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T23:08:57.997" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T23:08:57.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30193" CreationDate="2015-04-23T23:11:16.753" Score="1" ViewCount="5487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an Ortlieb Rack Pack to go across the top of my rear pannier rack. When the pannier bags are attached the Rack Pack works great: it clips into the two pannier bags and everything holds together nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vV5tn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I'm only using one pannier bag or if I'm using the Rack Pack on its own, I struggle to get the Rack Pack secured to the rear pannier rack. I'm thinking of using a bungee cord, but should I try something else instead? Is there a different kind of strap that is specifically designed for fixing things to panniers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10759" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T02:06:48.777" LastActivityDate="2019-05-28T02:49:53.420" Title="How should I fix my Ortlieb Rack Pack (medium, 31 litres) to my rear panniers?" Tags="&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30196" CreationDate="2015-04-23T23:31:26.797" Score="5" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having some pain issues (won't get specific, I know not to let the Internet diagnose me) in one foot but not the other. What kinds of motions on a bike stress one foot more than the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've thought of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/starting.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown technique&lt;/a&gt; for mounting a bike (one foot stomps the pedal, the other pushes off from the ground)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coasting, where I have a habit of always leaving the same foot at full extension (and carrying more weight)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else I've missed? I'm consciously changing my coasting posture, and trying to train myself to Sheldon-Brown-mount with opposite feet. If there's anything else I could be doing, it would be good to know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T21:24:37.947" Title="Differential foot stress?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30189" CreationDate="2015-04-24T00:24:09.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go with a couple of bungee cords, maybe the adjustable-length ones.  That's probably going to be more versatile and adaptable than something more specialized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some flat adjustable bungees, like these:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Urng.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B008ETMV8I&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-Adjustable-Loop-Thru-BLACK/dp/B008ETMV8I&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That particular type is attached on either side such that you can open it without having the entire strap coming off the bike. Both ends are a plain nylon strap, and the middle section is stretchy.  I've used these for motorcycle luggage and I liked them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T00:24:09.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30189" CreationDate="2015-04-24T04:17:05.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the exact same setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bzmRZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the end of the bag, I clipped it to the panniers using the built-in clips, as you're doing, but I would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; trust this to keep the bag stationary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought one of those big containers of bungee cords of different lengths from Canadian Tire, and used the two shortest ones to go around the bag's middle. It looks like I actually missed the handle there, but usually I run them through the handles so they can't slip off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They work well without the panniers, provided you run the bungies through the handles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dirt cheap, and kept it in place really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T04:17:05.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4724" CreationDate="2015-04-24T13:43:28.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After traumatically sudden failures of a carbon seatpost, and shortly after, a carbon wheel, both resulting into painful crashes, I decided that my next fancy bike would not be a carbon fibre one, but titanium. I ended up buying a Cube HPT (frame made by Lynskey). After two years of moderate use (no crashes) I discovered a horizontal crack across the weld on the top of the seat-tube. When I asked my dealer about possible repair, they looked the frame over more closely, only to discover 3 (three!) more long cracks on the horizontal stays. That was the end of it. I suppose at least it didn't suddenly fail causing injuries but not exactly impressive either. I also own a Van Nicholas Tuareg ti-frame (MTB) which makes incurable creaky noises under load. The bike had been completely rebuilt twice (new transmission bits, looking very closely at correctly torqueing up everything), before discovering it was actually the frame making the noise, even though no cracks are visible. I now understand that creaky noises are not entirely uncommon on Ti frames. I also managed to break the top clamp of a Ti seat-post (Van Nicholas) - again, another &quot;slow&quot; and injury free failure, but enough to end my interest in titanium for good, even though I still love the looks. &#xA;Cube has now kindly sent me a HPC Litening frame to replace the HPT (which is no longer made), free of charge. That frame is made of carbon. I am not sure whether to give that a try, or flog the carbon frame on eBay, and carry on using my steel and alu bikes instead...&#xA;BTW - I weigh in at about 95 kg and reasonably strong (but no threat to the likes of Mario Cipollini  though :))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19206" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T13:43:28.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30191" CreationDate="2015-04-24T15:15:21.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perfect pedaling is actually on the rare side and generally takes a lot of work to develop.  That being said many people pedal in an unbalanced way (I tend to have a much stronger downstroke on my right and upstroke on my left).  I use clipless however, so my feet are always in the proper position (for me).  If your foot position varies or isn't correct (for you) you may experience uneven pain.  It's also possible you have an unbalanced stroke.  Either of these could contribute to single sided pain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T15:15:21.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12750" CreationDate="2015-04-24T16:14:14.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issues with my &quot;72 and '75 Peugeots, although I'm sure this isn't related to just them. The second answer is about what I did and worked better for me. I liberally used WD40 and a cheater on my wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19207" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T16:14:14.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29133" CreationDate="2015-04-24T18:00:59.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can not see any advantage to this layout, except maybe threading a U-Lock or similar through the wheels is easier with some wider gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I live, the biggest concern I would have is durability. It would seem evenly spaced spokes would produce a stronger wheel.  Since there are 'big' gaps in spoke placement around the rim, I would fear hitting a pot-hole in the wrong place would quickly dent the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visually it seems the spokes are all still the same length, but that is another question to ask.  It would be a drag to have different length spokes if one should ever break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19194" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T18:00:59.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30101" CreationDate="2015-04-24T18:11:33.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A square taper crank set with triple chain rings is a straight forward search item in google, or the local bike shop.  If you are aiming for a pure drop in replacement, make sure you get the same tooth count on the chain rings, and the crank arms are the same length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned the BB is only threaded on one end.  I suspect this means you still have the 'fixed cup' in the frame, and probably have a cartridge BB.  Its probably worth the extra money to replace that at the same time as the cranks since its a relatively small portion (guessing, 15-20%) of the overall cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19194" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T18:11:33.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-25T00:31:13.017" Score="2" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm in the process of converting my road bike to a tri bike as much as possible. I would like to push the seat saddle a little more. So I rotated the post and adjusted the saddle as in the picture below. However I worried that such position might make it prone to snap to I reverted the change.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Picture of post with adjusted saddle: &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/7dWpzQR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/7dWpzQR&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19213" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T09:14:23.470" Title="Is rotating seat post 180 degrees to get a tri position a good idea?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30201" CreationDate="2015-04-25T05:58:26.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my bikes HARD (BMX park/street/dirt) and back in the 90s we had to use what ever parts we could find. Since no one was making parts back then for BMX, it was usually MTB parts. Even back then and with all the abuse we put them through, (yes, even flipping seats and posts backwards to fit our needs) the parts seemed to hold up pretty well (Except the hollow axles used for quick release, those snapped pretty easy), about the only thing was the posts would kink, but that was because they were raised way high and dropped from 30-40 feet up off the ground. I can't tell what brand of post that it, but it looks more solid than the crap we used back then, and we beat them up pretty good. My guess is that you will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3949" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T05:58:26.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30201" CreationDate="2015-04-25T09:14:23.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rotating the post should not be a problem  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the saddle there is a range on the rails that you may be past&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Often the range will be marked  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a rail break but I was too far back &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid aluminum rails as aluminum fatigues &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T09:14:23.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30205" CreationDate="2015-04-25T13:22:39.840" Score="10" ViewCount="1034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked into my 6 years old Mountain Bike manual and in the bag with it and all the warranties I found these 5 pieces of plastic, what are they made for?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1f9DX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;5 pieces of plastic&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/01BSe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19215" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T14:11:30.970" Title="Pieces of plastic that came with my bike, what are these?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30204" CreationDate="2015-04-25T13:50:39.187" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RmQiD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Labeled Parts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are cable guide parts.  From the looks of it, you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Housing shims, used to secure hydraulic lines or brake housing in the braze-ons of the frame, or for securing the housing at the point it enters the frame in the case of internal housing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Headset adjustment bolt button, used to keep water out of the bolt in the center of your headset cap, or to hide the bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Hydraulic line clips, used to secure hydraulic lines or cable housing on a particular type of housing guide on the outside of a frame or the back of a suspension fork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many frames come with extras of these parts, so it may be that you have no need for them at this time.  Or you might, if the LBS did a poor job of assembly. No way for us to know without seeing your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2015-04-25T14:11:30.970" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T14:11:30.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30149" CreationDate="2015-04-25T14:19:40.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the sensor menu on your edge 510, delete the sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have a fresh CR-2032 battery in the GSC 10 Speed &amp;amp; Cadence sensor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a button on the bottom right corner of the GSC 10.  It acts as an indicator light as well as the reset button.  Hold it down for 5 seconds.  It should flash red and green. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Press the SEARCH button in the sensors meny of the EDGE 510.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spin the wheel.  It will flash each time the wheel rotates for a few seconds, then it will go dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EDGE 510 should pop up a message saying &quot;Speed &amp;amp; Cadence sensor FOUND&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T14:19:40.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-25T15:36:51.897" Score="0" ViewCount="1133" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the left shifter is for my front mech. When I twist it, it can click  mor than twice. I have three chain rings at the front. Is this normal? Right now when u turn it try changing gears the mech doesn't line up with the indicated chain ring &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T07:00:27.183" Title="should my left shifter be clicking more than twice" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-25T16:05:35.870" Score="0" ViewCount="2152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 6 speed freewheel on a Diamondback. I tried to replace some busted shifters with an 8 speed indexing shifter that was on clearance. It appears that each shift's spacing of the shifters is going to be a little smaller than that of the gears.( It takes about 7 shifts to cover the 6 gears ) Can I turn off the indexing in the shifters so that they work as a friction shifter? If not, I will have to check out recycled cycles for and old 6 speed set. Should have done that first. Don't know if 6 speed shifters are even made/sold new anymore. Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19216" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T07:07:40.667" Title="Disable index shifting to create friction shifting possible?" Tags="&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30208" CreationDate="2015-04-25T17:02:30.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically not -- a few index shifters (like my Shimano 105SC 7 speed ones) have this option, but its primarily downtube and bar end ones for &amp;lt;=8 speeds. I don't think there exist any other shifters that do this other than possibly some grip shifts since they pretty much are letting pawls catch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can buy friction shifters &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jensonusa.com/!2FE-gZIjoj-efpVOUVK21A!/Sunrace-MTB-Friction-Shift-Lever?utm_source=FRGL&amp;amp;utm_medium=organic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pretty cheaply these days&lt;/a&gt; from companies like Sunrace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T17:02:30.097" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30207" CreationDate="2015-04-25T17:05:58.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lining up (or not) suggests some tuning is in order, but it is normal to have multiple clicks per shift on many models, to allow fine tuning of the shift while riding (if you count the clicks carefully you may find that the middle chainring is at a different position when approached from the larger compared to the smaller chainring). When you say twist, are you talking about something like revoshift? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lJ8gL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;revoshift shifter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The revoshift I'm familiar with certainly does this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adjustment of the font mech for not lining up is more likely to be a matter of limit screws than cable tension -- see &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown (skip to the limit screws)&lt;/a&gt; among many HowTos for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T17:05:58.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30228" CreationDate="2015-04-25T17:41:22.427" Score="0" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical rear shock has a suggested service interval around 150 hours or a year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a &lt;strong&gt;suggested maintenance between those service intervals&lt;/strong&gt;? Just oil the stanchion from outside? Any technique to do that because it is harder to pass the oil by the stanchion than with a fork? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the suggested interval a rule which should not be negotiated much or is it rather a recommendation which can be prolonged in case of less dirty rides (mud/wet). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7851" LastEditorUserId="7851" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T14:46:58.700" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T21:24:44.887" Title="Suggested maintenance for rear shock between service intervals?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-25T22:37:45.760" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;okay, so i ride 20 x 2.4 tires that have a max psi of 110. last night my tire EXPLODED! the shop i buy my stuff from is closed for the rest of tonight and tomorrow and im going to the bmx park tomorrow. i have a old tire that is a 20 x 2.1 that has a tube in it i could use but im worried that it might be to much of a size difference and i don't what it to blow while im riding tomorrow. what do you guys think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19217" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T00:21:59.743" Title="information about tubes?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30214" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-26T00:05:28.357" Score="0" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a new chain on the older bike, measured it up with the old chain, but did not change the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I am able to crank the pedals with the bike standing still on the ground with the chain making a noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a sign for a cassette change or should I try to shorten the chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19218" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T06:12:26.727" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T04:06:08.677" Title="new chain skipping" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30213" CreationDate="2015-04-26T00:21:59.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you are particularly heavy, I would not worry about size - not that much difference in load carrying between a 2.1 and 2.4 that it will cause a blowout. Blowouts are caused by a tire failure of some description (bead failure, not seated on rim properly or cut to tire are the most common causes). You say &quot;old tire and tube&quot; - how old and what condition?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your choice is ride on the 2.1 or not ride - I know what I would do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T00:21:59.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30214" CreationDate="2015-04-26T02:54:18.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, it's not right to measure new chain by old chain, as old chain stretched, and is longer than needed. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here (sheldon brown)&lt;/a&gt;  you can find about chain length.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does your chain skipping on some cogs, or at all the cogs? If it skips at some cogs, you should probably replace cassette. If it skips at all cogs, your chain probably bad or too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T02:54:18.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10595" CreationDate="2015-04-26T04:13:52.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I let my bike bake in the sun before doing sticker removal. It's the metal you need to heat to soften the adhesive. Mine came off very easily since the bike was older and any seal coat had long faded. Once the stickers peeled away I wiped the area with a cloth dampened with alcohol. The same product available from a pharmacy. This is safe for skin and will not damage paint but WILL remove adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T04:13:52.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30207" CreationDate="2015-04-26T07:00:27.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;fine tuning&quot; that Chris H and Daniel R Hicks are mentioning is also called trim, and in addition to 'fine tuning' it allows you to counter-act the noise made by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=cross+chaining&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1680&amp;amp;bih=935&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=sIo8VZvEDIzZtQWFrIGwCw&amp;amp;ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cross chaining&lt;/a&gt;. Sheldon Brown talks about it &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gear-theory.html#crossover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; . Halfway down &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, you will find info on Front Deraileurs. Perhaps more importantly on that page, search for &quot;Indexing adjustment&quot; to learn about how adjust the correlation between your shifter's number and where the mech actually is by using the barrel adjuster. (*Warning! Make sure you don't full unscrew any barrel adjusters, else your shifting will go to hell.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18996" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T07:00:27.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30208" CreationDate="2015-04-26T07:07:40.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about a twist shifter, they DO make those still! Sram makes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001A0AIIS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shimano compatible version&lt;/a&gt;. Know that the MRX is shimano, and the other models that have numbers are sram only.&#xA;If thats not to your liking, the thumb-shifter that Batman was mentioning is a solid option for a few bucks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18996" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T07:07:40.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30221" CreationDate="2015-04-26T09:04:11.020" Score="1" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to use my old Campagnolo crank on a new road bike frame. The frame has already a Pressfit BB71-41A installed. The crank needs a sqaure tape. Is it possible to use the crank with a adapter or do I need to buy a new frame/crank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike Frame: used Bulls Desert Falcon Pro&#xA;Crank: Campagnolo Racing T 9 Speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T09:26:49.250" Title="Bottom Bracket Press fit to a square taper" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30220" CreationDate="2015-04-26T09:26:49.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say no. If the frame had a screw-in BB shell you could simply fit a tapered axle and bearings. Looks like you'll need a new chainset (that comes complete with axle) - however you could get rid of the cheapo BB71-41A (MTB type - why would anybody fit this?) and fit whatever bearings suit the chainset of your choice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19220" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T09:26:49.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30214" CreationDate="2015-04-26T09:36:42.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For overall chain length (to decide on the number of links required when fitting a new chain) use published methods (eg wrap it over the two biggest cogs - not going through the rear derailleur, add two links to get the correct length - the count includes the joining link; this is the Shimano method for a double chainset but works fine for me with a triple).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure chain stretch due to wear with a chain wear indicator (cheap). If wear reaches 0.75 replace the chain. You should get through at least 3 chains before needing to change the cassette. Skipping on a few gears is a sign of a worn cassette - but can be a symptom of maladjusted rear derailleur (or maybe you put the cable the wrong side of the clamp bolt on the rear derailleur!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19220" LastEditorUserId="19220" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T10:03:39.387" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T10:03:39.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30293" CreationDate="2015-04-26T11:01:36.323" Score="2" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should I use rack or trailer? Touring would be B &amp;amp; B normally, but might involve some minimal-gear camping (no cooking) occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a rack - what type is best? - there are no braze-ons for a rack, but the Ti frame should carry weight OK and the wheels are strong alloy with steel spokes. Would heel clearance be an issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a trailer - is there a danger of cars pulling across behind and hitting the trailer? I also worry about jack-knifing on steep downhills, and being tempted to take more weight than the (Ultegra) brakes can stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS I'm pretty light myself - about 65kg&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19220" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T01:25:53.393" Title="Best setup for lightweight cycle touring with Ti road bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30226" CreationDate="2015-04-26T11:33:56.457" Score="3" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so, basically, the rear cassette on my bike is giving me a lot of problems, and I'm not exactly a professional cyclist who would know where to begin so I thought I'd ask here;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem seems to sit with the chain going where chains shouldn't go. The other day when I was cycling along I chained gear for a hill or something, and there was a loud clunk and suddenly I could not move the pedals anymore. I got off my bike and had a look and the chain had gone beyond the casette and into the gap between the casette and the circular plastic gaurd that is up against the spokes.. It took litterally all of my strength to get it back out as it had wedged itself in there quite firmly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really don't know why that happened but I get the feeling something is wrong that needs fixing. I also have this odd behaviour with the rear casette, to go from gear 1 to 2, I have to twist the gear thing up to about halfway between 2 and 3, before i'll hear the chain move across, when left like this, I hear a scraping sound, and the way I stop that scraping sound is by twisting the gear thing back to just under 2. Perhaps something is misaligned?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only seem to use gear 1 through 4 on the front aswell but there are more gears it'll just never go into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike gets knocked around alot and I guess it's abit abused, so could something have broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19221" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T12:03:08.953" Title="Chain wedging itself between cassette and gaurd" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30224" CreationDate="2015-04-26T11:50:14.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#rear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bent derailleur&lt;/a&gt; if the bike has been banged around and its not shifting right. You'll need to go to a bike shop so they can un-bend it, and then redo the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;derailleur adjustments&lt;/a&gt; and possibly cable tension. The bent derailleur will prevent the adjustments from taking place properly, so if you try them, you may find that its unadjustable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the front, maybe you need to adjust the cable tensions or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;front derailleur&lt;/a&gt;. Presumably you don't have a quad chainring setup since those are usually not found on bikes (sometimes trikes, though), but when you take the bike to the shop for the derailleur unbending (probably), you can have them tweak that adjustment too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T11:50:14.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30224" CreationDate="2015-04-26T12:03:08.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible that you have damaged something but the most likely is that things need lube and are out of adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that the rear derailleur is vertical - if not go to a bike shop for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two screws (usually crosshead on the rear derailleur) that prevent the rear derailleur going beyond the ends of the cassette. The one that is for the big cog end needs adjusting so the chain cannot go beyond it into the plastic ring (I can't tell you which screw without looking on the web for the specific derailleur type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The poor changing (front or rear) is probably due to the cable not moving well in its outer or cable stretch or poor adjustment. Try dripping some light lube into the end (eg thin Teflon, WD40) or if this is tricky undo the cable from the derailleur (note carefully which side of the screw it is on &amp;amp; remember this when replacing) and relube whole cable, checking for free movement when using the changer and pulling the end of the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-attach the cable to the derailleur and use the adjustment nut on the derailleur to get the gears to index correctly (lots on the web about this: generally put the handlebar gear changer in the position for the smallest cog, pulling the wire taught manually &amp;amp; tighten the cable bolt. Then use the adjuster to get cable tightness exact for correct indexing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cable condition is bad replace it and if possible the outers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19220" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T12:03:08.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30223" CreationDate="2015-04-26T12:39:09.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would avoid a trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On rear rack you are going to have heel clearance issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may seem extreme but get a front fork with braze-ons.  Braze-on on the inside and outside for really solid rack mounting - check out the Salsa Vaya.  Not going to cost you more than a trailer and ride a lot nicer.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider frame bags. Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.revelatedesigns.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.revelatedesigns.com/&lt;/a&gt;. See this set up &lt;a href=&quot;http://moots.com/our-bike/cross/routt-45/overview/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://moots.com/our-bike/cross/routt-45/overview/&lt;/a&gt;. You can put water bottle cages on the axles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T01:25:53.393" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T01:25:53.393" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30211" CreationDate="2015-04-26T13:38:33.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the conditions you ride in - wet and muddy or very fine dust may require more frequent tear downs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;whether or not you use a shock protector e.g a Lizard Skin &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO use one if you can but your frame may not allow a protector to fit in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the age of the shock and the condition of the wiper seals. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again if the wiper seal is letting dust and water through the inner grease will become contaminated and useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im using a Lizard Skin and I pull apart my current Fox about every 6 months which is often enough for me as the inner grease seems a little dirty by then. I'm typically riding 3-8 hours per week in summer and 1-2 hours in winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greasing the outside will do nothing other than lubricate the wiper seals slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To maintain you need to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean all the dirt off the exterior of the shock. Give it a scrub in the sink if need be. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depressurise the shock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No really, depressurise! Open up the air can. I can do this by hand but you might need a strap wrench for your shock model. It should have normal screw polarity so anti-clockwise to wind off. Be careful of how you do this so you don't break off adjustment levers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean away all the old grease and any dirt on the wiper seal surfaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place new Shock Grease on the inner O rings, damper shaft and wiper seal. Go easy here as you don't want to block ports. Less is more. Buy a tube of real shock grease. It's expensive but lasts forever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Screw the air can back on. Again be careful as the can is made of aluminium and has fine threads which you don't want to cross. It's not going to be really easy as the negative chamber will seal up and resist compression.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch the procedure in this video:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/yZBiq0wuhU4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4383" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T21:24:44.887" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T21:24:44.887" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30232" CreationDate="2015-04-26T14:50:25.823" Score="1" ViewCount="1771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my 9 Speed Campagnolo Racing T Crank with a new one which uses the power torque system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a 11 Speed Athena (or 10 speed Centaur) crank compatible with the racing t front dérailleur and the 9 speed Chorus shifters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Components/athena_crankset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Components/athena_crankset&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bike parts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campagnolo Chrous Ergopower 9-Speed       &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campagnolo Chrous Brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campagnolo raceing t Crank (needs to be replaced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campagnolo raceing t front derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campagnolo raceing t rear derailleur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campagnolo Chorus Cassette 9-Speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campagnolo C9 Chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T18:40:53.197" Title="Campagnolo Crank Compatibility 11 speed crank to 9 speed chain/deraillieur/shifters" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30229" CreationDate="2015-04-26T16:37:02.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Shimano 10 speed cranks with 9spd chain, derailluers and gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without actually having tried it with the Campy components you list, I see no reason why it shouldn't work. The only difference between 9spd and 11 spd chain is the exterior width of the chain. The interior dimensions are identical (i.e. 3/32 of an inch wide, 1/2 inch long). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one issue you may run into is that the front chainrings may be slightly closer together&#xA;than a 9 speed crank. When you are using gear combos that involve the cross chaining on the small chainring, the extra width of 9 speed chain may catch on the larger chainring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shifting may not be as precise and fast as an all 11 speed setup, but of all the parts of the drivetrain the front cranks are the least &quot;speed specific&quot; and the easiest to interchange. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T16:37:02.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25298" CreationDate="2015-04-26T18:04:24.667" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've serviced the brain on my 2006 sworks stumpy several times over the past few years, mostly because of the crummy turnaround times from spesh, and the fact that it never makes it through more than half a season before losing lockout etc.  And the fact that I'm a mechanical engineer and stupidly tear into anything that breaks thinking I can handle it (half the time I can't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to admit it took me about a year to get good at rebuilding it, the critical thing is you have to make sure there are absolutely NO air bubbles in the system when you refill it.  Air bubbles getting into the hydraulic fluid seems to be what makes them fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few threads out there that are helpful, and there's a rockshox monarch repair video that's similar enough to give you some good ideas.  There are also schematics available on the net that are a huge help and also tell you what size o-rings etc you'll need (and make sure you replace them every time, at the least the standard ones which are easy to get from the internet or in my case my friendly neighbourhood hydraulic component shop), they're cheap and if you don't you have a good chance of failure.  Note that some of them are Vitron (teflon impregnated), unless you have absolutely no choice replace vitron with vitron of the same color (durometer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the schematics saved somewhere but haven't found them yet, that's how I ended up here, I'll try to remember to check back once I find them, and if anyone wants let me know and I'll pass them on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't bother with nitrogen, I think the main reason they use it is the convenience of a high pressure cylinder of nitrogen versus using a hand pump or a high pressure compressor (you want to charge the brain side to 350-400psi).  Some shocks do just use air.  I put a schraeder valve on my brain and use a suspension pump to fill it, I can get about 350 psi into it.  If you wanted nitrogen you could probably go to a motorcycle service shop and get them to charge the system for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To refill it I have used Fox fluid, but it's just rebranded motorcycle fork fluid marked up about five times as much.  I've used Belray motorcycle fork fluid with success (It's available in a variety of weights so you can experiment a bit, I think I used 7 wt).  I've also tried transmission fluid at someones suggestion, it works fine but smells terrible, I doubt I'll use it again.  Whatever you use you need a lot because you need to have a bath of it you can fully emerge the whole system in while you reassemble to make sure you don't get bubbles, for me I need about a gallon minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's probably no reason to take apart the shim stack, but if you do be very careful and methodical, take your time and take LOTs of pictures.  If you dont get it back together exactly the way it was it probably won't work, and I've only found shim stack diagrams for one or two models of brain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19226" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T18:04:24.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-26T19:41:11.223" Score="0" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi i got a preowned raleigh activator 2 with front suspension and rear tube dampening system but the front and back suspensions dont seem as bouncy as i thought is there a way to get them to do their job properly.i am 10stone in weight and height 5,10 if its to do with the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19227" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T19:41:11.223" Title="Suspension not bouncy raleigh activator 2" Tags="&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-05-02T17:14:24.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30235" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-26T20:14:38.207" Score="2" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this corrosion comes from sweat. How can this be removed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QhaIi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T16:47:21.187" Title="Corroded brake levers" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;&lt;corrosion&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30235" CreationDate="2015-04-26T21:05:26.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can. It looks to me like the anodized surface layer has worn off, exposing the plain aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T21:05:26.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-26T21:47:05.310" Score="4" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do new hubs usually come adjusted, or one needs to adjust them prior to use. I have a new Shimano Claris hub, and it does not seem to be as smooth rolling as my previous Tiagra hub. Should I try to adjust it, or leave it as is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T17:20:46.813" Title="Do new hubs need to be adjusted prior to use" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18297" CreationDate="2015-04-26T22:03:08.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always ask &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html#special&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if it will work because he's talking about centre pulls, but anyway, you need to attach the cable housing to the yoke, and the cable is then attached where the pulley is in your picture. The cable housing will then push the yoke up towards the seat tube instead of the cable pulling up the yoke!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19230" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T22:03:08.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8773" CreationDate="2015-04-27T11:18:08.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go 25 or better 28mm: the rolling resistance will be lower for the same pressure as your 23s - or you can reduce pressure a bit on the 25 or 28s for comfort and the same rolling resistance as the 23s - and still with the bigger tyre not get pinch punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's lots on the web about going for bigger tyres - a lot of racers are now going for 25s!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19220" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T11:18:08.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14858" CreationDate="2015-04-27T11:29:07.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fit 25mm (or 28mm if possible) tyres: rolling resistance will be reduced for the same pressure as your 23s, or reduce pressure by a few psi for more comfort. Bigger tyres will reduce the chance of pinch punctures and give more confidence in bad conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live near Reading too: the big problem is tiny sharp flints - I pick them out with a pointed knife between every ride to stop them working their way into the tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19220" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T11:29:07.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30235" CreationDate="2015-04-27T16:47:21.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have exactly the same 'stains' on my 2003 Centaur Ergopower levers, which I also attributed to the layer of anodization wearing off. It is not corrosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different thermal expansion rates of the oxide and the alloy underneath could damage the layer of anodization. Not sure if the presence of mildy acidic human sweat could accelerate the process significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot 'clean' the lever, although technically you could get it anodized again (or buy new carbon levers which do not have THIS problem -- they have a protective veneer which chips away..).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14229" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T16:47:21.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30238" CreationDate="2015-04-27T17:20:46.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most lower end hubs do not come perfectly adjusted from the factory.  A quality LBS will have a step in a bike build process that checks and/or adjusts the hubs accordingly.  It can be hard to adjust a hub that is unbuilt and between that and machine assembly, they are often close, but not as good as they can be.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are feeling vibration, I would guess they are too loose and look into adjusting them as soon as possible to prevent damage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T17:20:46.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14858" CreationDate="2015-04-27T18:52:45.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any bike can be ridden anywhere, for the most part. It's mostly a matter of how you ride it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rider, you are an active part of the equation. You cannot sit passively and just move your legs. Your arms and knees are part of your body's suspension and you must use them as such. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go into a good shop and talk to them about what equipment they would recommend for training. That is the stuff that is durable and designed to last. I'm thinking particularly about tires and wheels. No carbon, and unless you're a pretty lightweight person, tires 25mm or 28mm. More spokes are better--28-32 spokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good handbuilt wheel will be better than a machine built unit. Ask around for a builder with good reputation and have him/her build up a wheelset suited to your purpose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T18:52:45.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30247" CreationDate="2015-04-27T19:07:24.053" Score="0" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone rode the trails at Cuyuna Lakes in Ironton, Minnesota?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wondering if there is tent camping at the base of any of the trail systems&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that a guy can literally ride into camp at the bottom ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, can you give me some advice? Where to go...best place to grab...heads up about anything... etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks stackers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19037" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T19:54:58.047" Title="Cuyuna Lakes, MN Camping?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;advice&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30246" CreationDate="2015-04-27T19:54:58.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on a quick search on Google, I was able to find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/cuyuna_country/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Portsmouth Campground&lt;/a&gt;, which looks to be pretty close to the trails. They also have yurts available, which might be nice as they aren't too expensive and you might even be able to fit your bike inside if you didn't have too many people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T19:54:58.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2015-04-27T22:51:13.127" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;infection with hepatitis or aids. Allergica reaction if incorrect blood type is use. Blood clots. Kidney damage.Strain circulatory system  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19240" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T22:51:13.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18654" CreationDate="2015-04-27T23:00:25.953" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to revive an old thread, but I have the same wheelset.  At first, I was losing up to half the pressure withing 12 hours.  I started with 1 ounce of sealant in each tire.  After a week, I added another ounce, and the tires lost maybe the same amount over a 24 hour period. Not bad, that is the rate for my latex tubulars But lately, the front tire is now fully sealed. I loses only a couple of pounds over a 2 day period.  The rear is still losing air, but only 10 pounds per day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the Bontrager rim strips, 25mm R3 tires, Bontrager sealant on the RXL rims.  I am not totally happy with the setup, but I have no idea why it took 2 months to finally seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19241" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T23:00:25.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30254" CreationDate="2015-04-28T04:33:27.427" Score="3" ViewCount="2296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just went for a 50 mile ride on my hybrid (1/3 on an unpaved trail, 2/3 on a paved trail), and I am curious regarding the outfit I'm wearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it frowned upon to wear a skin tight (road bike style) cycling clothing while riding a hybrid? Would I benefit from a more baggy outfit? What's the &quot;traditional&quot; hybrid outfit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19245" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T20:41:27.557" Title="Lycra and hybrid bicycle" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30251" CreationDate="2015-04-28T06:12:23.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;All that matters is that you ride. Not what you ride or what you wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding 80km is respectable, especially if 1/3 is on unpaved trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let your legs do the talking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T06:12:23.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-28T08:34:14.003" Score="0" ViewCount="1341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rockrider 300 which has tyre measurements as 26*2.0 and tube measurements as 26*1.75-26*2.12. According to the catalog they are semi-slick tyres. I want them to be even slicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked up a btwin tyre online which measures 700*25 which is compatible with tubes measuring 700*18 - 700*25 and 700cc or 28 wheels. I am not sure what any of this means and if its a good for my bike in terms of measurements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please give me a range of measurements of tyres and tubes that I can buy which can fit my rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19246" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T12:19:59.353" Title="Tyre replacement for Rockrider 300" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30251" CreationDate="2015-04-28T09:35:13.987" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that it isn't very common to see people wearing Lycra on a hybrid. However most people I see on hybrids wouldn't ride 80 km. At that distance, the right clothes can make a real difference in energy expenditure and comfort.  The people who don't wear Lycra mostly don't know the benefits or feel too self-conscious to wear it. I think that you should keep wearing Lycra if it makes you comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T09:35:13.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-28T09:40:33.427" Score="3" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I did my first bicycle race this weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The watts graph was very varied, there was a lot of low watt (150-200w) and short bursts of +400w.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how many bursts there where, and how long and what wattage they where on. Looking at the data in Strava I only see the 25w distribution or the maximum watt given a time (power curve).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to do this manually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good tools for analysis of this sort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14644" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T05:17:55.497" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T05:17:55.497" Title="Post race analysis of performance" Tags="&lt;software&gt;&lt;evaluation&gt;&lt;competition&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30253" CreationDate="2015-04-28T10:02:14.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ah the wonderful world of tire sizes, where nothing is what it seems! There are multiple size systems (French, fractional, decimal, ISO), and only ISO/ETRTO, the &quot;international standard&quot; is (somewhat) consistent. Unfortunately, many people don't use the ISO/ETRTO system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definitive guide to tire sizes is Sheldon Browns' site:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The only thing I would like to add to the mighty Sheldon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid&lt;/strong&gt; any tire with &lt;strong&gt;fractional&lt;/strong&gt; markings (such as 26 x 1 1/4) like the plague, unless you are 100% sure what you are doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your current tire: 26 x 2.0&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one of the most common MTB sizes, measured in inches:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;26 in. diameter, 2.0 in. width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equivalent ISO = 599mm (diameter) x 50mm (approx. width)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your new Btwin tire: 700 x25c&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700 is a French size often used for road/racing cycles. Since the French like their millimetres, a 700 x 25 means &quot;700&quot; diameter, 25mm width. To complicate things, the French &quot;700&quot; is not the same as the ISO diameter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equivalent ISO  =  622mm (diameter) x 25mm (width).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the diameters are not the same, your new tire will not fit. There is also a large difference in tire width (50mm for the old tire, 25 for the new)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General tire selection advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1)&lt;/strong&gt; Get the ISO diameter size right first. This is the only measure that can be somewhat relied upon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2)&lt;/strong&gt; Check tire width &amp;amp; rim compatibility.&#xA;Get the diameter size right first, then check the tire width. Small/skinny tires will not fit on very wide MTB rims. Fat tires will not fit on narrow rims. Measure your rim width. Sheldon Brown's site has a table that shows rim width vs. tire width compatibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, I have established these quick and dirty rules regarding tire width:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Racing cycle wheels: 23mm - 30mm (but the wider tires probably will rub the frame)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;City bike wheels: 30mm - 47mm &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTB wheels: 35mm- 60mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastEditorUserId="14562" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T12:19:59.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T12:19:59.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-28T10:19:06.350" Score="0" ViewCount="5161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm able to buy a set of Fulcrum Racing S3 wheels.  I searched in all their on line catalogues but the wheels in the picture the guy send me are nowhere to be found.&#xA;I'm thinking these are exclusively made for Specialized bikes, could this be true?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OLxX3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19248" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T10:06:10.870" Title="What's the difference between Fulcrum Racing 3 and Fulcrum Racing S3?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30255" CreationDate="2015-04-28T10:52:50.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try looking at your ride through &lt;a href=&quot;http://veloviewer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Veloviewer&lt;/a&gt; which offer a lot of very nice ways to dig into your data.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19001" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T10:52:50.343" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-28T12:23:09.627" Score="0" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me where I can source a Shimano Di2 Ultegra 6770 rear derailleur since shimano no longer has replacements and left their customers high and dry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19249" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T17:27:06.773" Title="Sourcing Shimano Di2 6770 Parts" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30255" CreationDate="2015-04-28T13:28:28.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a power meter than download something like Golden Cheetah to analyse the data.&#xA;Otherwise, if you are just using Strava's predictive data - I wouldn't bother as it won't be accurate enough for detailed analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T13:28:28.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15552" CreationDate="2015-04-28T13:53:38.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this may be a little outdated, but for the Giro this year, there has been a map made for it - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.citalia.com/giro-ditalia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.citalia.com/giro-ditalia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.s. I appreciate an answer 2 year late probably isn't going to help, however I thought better late than never!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19252" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T13:53:38.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30251" CreationDate="2015-04-28T14:31:36.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that for any ride (or any other exercise) which is enough to need a shower and a change of clothes afterwards, you might as well wear appropriate gear. I look slightly daft in lycra and feel uncomfortable going into the office, and also ride a hybrid. When I had a commute of 40 minutes of fairly hard riding each way I went for bike leggings and a slightly-looser-than-skin-tight jersey (down to gym kit in warm weather) . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T14:31:36.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17868" CreationDate="2015-04-28T14:34:30.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get rid of the tubes and use Stans no Tubes instead.  You'll save a bit of weight where it counts the most, but more importantly the tires will be self sealing.  Well worth it, I think most mountain bikers use it and you've probably switched to it by now, but for anyone else that ends up on this page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a demo&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/FTlZvOVG8zs?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19226" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T14:34:30.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30251" CreationDate="2015-04-28T15:25:47.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be aware that there are biking clothes that don't make you look like a racer.  Plain black biking shorts and a solid 1 or 2 color biking/athletic shirt isn't going to make you look out of place on your chosen steed, but you will benefit.  If you don't like the looks of the tight shorts, there are baggy cargo shorts made for biking as well.  My buddy does summer cross country bike tours dressed like that and he looks &quot;normal&quot;.  I commute in jeans and t-shirts myself.  For longer rides, or warmer rides, I may go with some gym shorts for comfort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T15:25:47.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30259" CreationDate="2015-04-28T16:50:15.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say eBay would be a good option. Also, some overseas shops and online retailers might have some in stock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T16:50:15.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30251" CreationDate="2015-04-28T16:52:38.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;About functionality of road bike kit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For distance riding there a number of functional advantages to road bike style clothing (road kit), these include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High quality chamois reduces the chance of saddle sores;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tight fit reduces aerodynamic drag and effort at higher speeds;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sweat wicking properties keep you more comfortable;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tight fitting makes it easy to layer clothing to match environmental conditions;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tight fit keeps clothing from getting caught when moving around on the bike:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is why XC racers wear tight kit as it keeps your shorts from getting caught on the saddle when you shift your weight behind a high saddle (i.e., riding drops or braking hard); and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Cyclocross (CX) this makes mounting and dismounting much easier, as you literally step over the saddle and onto the pedals in one motion when mounting on the run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from (2) it is reasonably easy to find varying degrees of these features in other &quot;baggy&quot; style bicycle clothing.  If you are riding a lot of gravel then your average speed will be lower so (2) won't matter as much but (5) could still be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;About Clothing Conventions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have commented on, if you like it, then that is all that matters.  If a roadie squawks tell them, &quot;Life's hard, get a helmet!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in all seriousness the only places I would consider baggy wearing clothing over bike gear (to look more &quot;normal&quot;) is areas of the world that have strong cultural identities that may clash with this type of clothing.  Sometimes this can lead to a short-circuit in the brain, causing behavioural problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of some places in every continent of the world where this could be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T16:52:38.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30259" CreationDate="2015-04-28T17:27:06.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they don't sell/manufacturer them anymore, then your best bet might be the used market, such as Ebay.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.artscyclery.com/ask-a-mechanic/ask-a-mechanic-upgrading-10-speed-di2-to-11-speed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; has some interesting information.  It seems like it's possible to mix 6770 and 6870 parts if you haven't updated your firmware. Otherwise it says something about using 6870 derailleurs with 6770 levers. Which I think means you could upgrade your entire drivetrain to 11 speed, without changing the levers, which would make the upgrade a bit cheaper. You could probably keep your crankset the same as well, as I'm pretty sure that it would be compatible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have Di2 and I'm just going by what I've been able to find on the internet.  Do some more research. There's probably a good solution that doesn't require upgrading the entire groupset. I read a few other other articles while searching around, and it seems like Shimano did a pretty big disservice by dropping the 6770 product line.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T17:27:06.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30281" CreationDate="2015-04-28T18:02:32.023" Score="3" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to learn some very small jumps and bunny-hops. It seems that upon landing from either, there are two options. I am talking here only about the moment of the impact with ground, and not about manoeuvring pre-jump or in the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Upon landing, one can push with the handlebars down. This seems to have the advantage of delegating the work of absorbing the impact to the forks, which is what they are made for (assume hardtail).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, one can strive to stay centered on the bike, relaxing the hands, and absorbing most or all of the impact by the feet. This seems to be achieved by kicking downwards when the bike is just about to land.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IS any of those techniques the correct approach? Or am I completely off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T04:06:21.367" Title="Should the hands be used for absorbing the impact after a jump?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;jumping&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30268" CreationDate="2015-04-28T18:17:22.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want to stay centered.  Don't push the bars down.  But don't wait to kicking downwards when the bike is just about to land.  Extend in air smoothly so you have room to absorb and get ready for landing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a hop you are trying to get air so you will be extended. &#xA;If it a jump you are tying to absorb you will be compressed so you will extend in air. &#xA;If you are not in the air very long it does not matter much - no kicking - smooth motions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T18:17:22.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30272" CreationDate="2015-04-28T18:21:42.770" Score="4" ViewCount="1541" Body="&lt;p&gt;i am 6ft, 250 lb. I have a karate monkey bike from surly and recently begun to ride the bike. My main aim is to lose weight and get stamina. I try to ride daily for 30 mins, around the block, on the road, near my home. So, i have two questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The default saddle, starts hurting my hips after 30 mins. Can anyone recommend from their personal experience a wider, more comfortable saddle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Currently, i use the knobby off road tires meant for offroad. Should i replace them with more smooth tires? My main motivation to keep the knobby ones is that they will help me build stamina faster. For example, i can only spare daily 30-45 mins. During that time, i can either put a bike on gear that will make me work harder with smoother tires or use knobby tires to add resistance. Is my understanding correct or should i really get smooth tires?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19254" LastActivityDate="2020-09-22T02:53:32.423" Title="Saddle for big guy" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29557" CreationDate="2015-04-28T18:37:09.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, freewheel vs cassette is probably more relevant to axle issues than solid vs hollow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the 70's I weighed 150 pounds, and broke or bent a couple of solid axles on freewheel equipped rear wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I spent many years without cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 2003 I have been riding primarily cassette bikes, and I weigh over 300 pounds.  I have not yet bent or broken a rear axle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19255" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T18:37:09.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30270" CreationDate="2015-04-28T18:42:28.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;0) As suggested by Chris in AK, a bike fit may be a good idea. You may find your saddle is too low or something else, making it uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) This is a personal choice. Go to your bike shop and see what they have -- some better shops will loan you saddles for a few days. A cruiser type saddle will be comfortable for short rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MGes0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but after 5-10 miles they become uncomfortable. It takes a while to get used to a new saddle. You may want to start with a cruiser saddle and once you're used to it, measure your sitbones and get a normal saddle if you're riding longer distances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You should really get smooth tires -- you'll go a bit faster, the road noise will be lower and you'll be able to corner more confidently so you'll probably end up riding more efficiently (and more). The knobby's also don't wear well on roads. And you're more likely to get a better tire pressure and performance balance with a smooth tire. I doubt the extra resistance from the knobs is going to do anything significant for the rate you build stamina -- you need to ride more to build more stamina (or do something smart, like high intensity interval training). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for choosing a higher gear, be careful -- you may overload your joints if you do it too much. The reason gears exist is so that we can transfer power more efficiently. Its not just intensity, but time as well. And learning when to use what gear is a useful skill to have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T14:32:58.240" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T14:32:58.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30268" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:35:00.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you watch a lot of trials riding, you'll notice they actually land with considerable more force on their rear wheels using their legs as a shock and then (sometimes even gently) touching down their front wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front suspension was mainly created to maintain control on rough terrain.  Trying to use your front suspension to absorb the impact of a jump requires that you put weight forward (or press down on the handlebars as you've pointed out).  Doing so however, means you are unweighting the rear of the bike and making yourself more prone to go over the handle bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most of us, the majority of our weight will be on the rear of the bike, and the majority of our strength as well.  You're better off using your front suspension to maintain control in your landing than using it to absorb the shock of the landing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T20:35:00.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30251" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:41:27.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are inclined to think about other people, social norms and whats considered acceptable then Lycra is not the best clothing in some situations. If you don't give a hoot what people think of you, lycra it is fine in most situations.&#xA;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-Lx2ihpGbc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This comes to mind.....&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non- cyclists don't really cares about Lycra or not when you are on the bike (togs). Its off the bike it counts when Lycra looks the same as underwear to most people (undies). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T20:41:27.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30277" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:46:31.670" Score="1" ViewCount="843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at upgrading the crank (stock FSA to Force 22) and getting a Praxis BB for my Cannondale CAAD10 BB30 frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.praxiscycles.com/product/conv-bb-sramgxp-isis-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.praxiscycles.com/product/conv-bb-sramgxp-isis-2/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like Praxis espouses an outboard bearing setup because of the increased BB width and rigidity (they claim) this provides.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if it is in fact worth it (noticeable performance upgrade/stiffness) to use a Praxis BB in concert with a GXP crank on a frame that is &lt;em&gt;meant&lt;/em&gt; to take a BB30 crank naturally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One major, non-performance, advantage I can think of is ease of access to the bearings.  I commute daily through downtown Chicago and bike components tend to get dirty and gritty fast in this area, and others too.  I'm thinking it might be worth it just to be able to service my BB at home without worrying about special tools, bearing pushers/pullers, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had success with Praxis on a BB30 frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T23:50:04.943" Title="Praxis Bottom Bracket Performance on BB30 Frame" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30275" CreationDate="2015-04-28T22:38:30.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed that Praxis BB30 converter on my Cannondale and I will never look back. I switched to a Shimano hollowtech II crank because that's the one I had lying around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only does it feel more rigid, but the bb30 was hopelessly noisy no matter how often I cleaned it, and the Praxis BB has been silent so far, the bearings seem to seal better. So yes, it's rigid, quieter, easier to clean, and my frame doesn't seem to mind. Those are my findings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure you use the proper amount of anti-seize when installing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VclHJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T23:50:04.943" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T23:50:04.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30255" CreationDate="2015-04-28T23:24:14.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While power analysis is useful (it is after all what gives you speed), at this early stage reviewing and learning from the race is more important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at it this way: you can be the strongest rider but not win due to poor tactical decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention the kind of race, so tactical advice can be misdirected ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;were there surges, and did you stay with them? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;did you do a turn at the front, and how did that work out? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;were you blown off the back? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;was there a sprint finish, and were you in it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;were you beaten for speed, or endurance, and how do you think they are connected?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;was there a point where people were consistently passing you, and why was that? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;was there a time when you seemed to be in the wrong gear, or felt that you'd topped out? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do work on your power output, and on understanding and extending what you can produce and for how far. But learning racecraft so that you know when to push is equally important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check out posts by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/4534/rider-x&quot;&gt;Rider_X&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=user:4534+[racing]&quot;&gt;racing&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T23:24:14.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-29T03:58:49.223" Score="0" ViewCount="792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had parked my bike outside my local grocery store and when I came out I saw that my lock had been tampered with. The keyhole where I insert my key was broken in half and the rubber coating was also cut down. Luckily I managed to haul it back to home but can't open the lock now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get it open?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:it was a u lock and I got it open with a set of bolt cutters but now when I tried to ride I saw a plate on my chain broken and the removal pin on the bike chain tool that I have is also broken any way I can fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19262" LastEditorUserId="19262" LastEditDate="2015-05-02T07:07:50.003" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T07:07:50.003" Title="bike keyhole broken" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30268" CreationDate="2015-04-29T18:34:56.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your assumptions are wrong. Yes, riders do extend their hands and feet just before landing, but not to make the bike work more. They do that so they can make room for the inevitable hand and feet compression which will happen when contacting the ground. If you don't extend hands and feet then you only have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40cm absorbtion of hands and feet compression&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15cm absorbtion of fork and rear shock (on a 150mm travel bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2cm absorbtion of tyre compression&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;anything else is pain on the body and bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do extend the hands and feet just before touching the ground then you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;80cm absorbtion of hands and feet compression&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15cm absorbtion of fork and rear shock (on a 150mm travel bike)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2cm absorbtion of tyre compression&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This video shows an extreme landing at 1000fps but it displays the extend-before-land technique very well: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/U8YEMP9rdkI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T18:34:56.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30284" CreationDate="2015-04-29T22:55:35.143" Score="0" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Scott S30 bike currently running a shimano 105 2x10 speed 50-34 crankset, shimano 105 10 speed front shifter and 10 speed cassete and chain.&#xA;I have a new crank that i want to install, the shimano 105 5800 53-39 but it is 11 speed. I'd like to know if i can make it work with the rest of the bike. I will change cassete and chain anyways because they already need replacement. &#xA;So i have some questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can i buy the same 10 speed cassette i used before? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use a 12-25 cassete now, can i upgrade to a 11-28 one or does this require a special rear derailleur?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain can be the same 10 speed chain or should i buy a 11 speed one? I have read mixed opinions on this. Some say its fine with 10 speed other say its better with 11...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are this good cables for my bike? I need to replace them but i can't spend much &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=2;product=21934&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=2;product=21934&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19271" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T23:18:52.967" Title="Scott S30 road bike 11speed with 10 speed compatibility" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30283" CreationDate="2015-04-29T23:18:52.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;New 105 5800 crankset is compatible with older components, according to numerous posts in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/967207-using-11-speed-crankset-10-speed-system.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use the same cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even if you use short cage rear derailleur now, it should have enough capacity for 28 teeth sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;11 speed Shimano chains have the same internal width, so these should be compatible with older 10 speed systems. Given that you have limited budget, 10s might be a better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that cable set will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T23:18:52.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-29T23:46:12.387" Score="3" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;My back tire caught a flat from a pot hole. The next day I take it to a shop and I get an inner tube change. From the shop I ride the bike home, but the tire catches another flat on the way. What do I do now? By the way I have a 52cm pure fixed bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19272" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2020-07-14T16:54:13.817" LastActivityDate="2020-07-14T16:54:13.817" Title="I keep getting flats. What's wrong with my tire?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30285" CreationDate="2015-04-30T02:25:24.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could just be bad luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, there may be a piece of glass, a tack/nail, or caltrop stuck in your tire in a way that wasn't visible to the shop that replaced your inner tube. It may be deeply embedded in the rubber tread, invisible on both sides, and only pierce the inner tube when under both air pressure and the weight of a rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you or the shop changes the inner tube yet again, they should keep track of the orientation of the inner tube to the outer tire and where the puncture is. They should triple-check the outer tire casing at the location of the puncture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or it could be bad luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T02:25:24.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T07:17:52.980" Score="0" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Camelbak Kudu 12 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.camelbak.com/kudu-12/d/1344&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://shop.camelbak.com/kudu-12/d/1344&lt;/a&gt;) backpack. I've tried riding with it a few times but it's just not working.&#xA;Whenever I ride down a trail, the backpack hits the back of my helmet. Because my helmet has a click to tighten on the back, whenever my backpack hits the helmet it undoes it, making it bob around in front of my eyes. I cannot ride when I'm using this backpack, I've tried tightening the straps fully and everything.&#xA;Any tips? &#xA;Cheers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: this is the tension control on the helmet, as you can see you push it and it loosens. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9qe45.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I've cable tied the tension control together, so that when the backpack hits it, nothing happens. works great! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17234" LastEditorUserId="17234" LastEditDate="2015-05-02T07:37:27.843" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T07:37:27.843" Title="Backpack advice?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21083" CreationDate="2015-04-30T14:58:19.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not seen any convention like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I print cue sheets for the (Maryland) St Mary's Century, I print them so that the color of the cue sheet paper is about the same as the color of the arrows on the road.  Orange arrows on the road = orange paper for the cue sheet etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19278" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T14:58:19.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-30T17:24:15.653" Score="0" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know springs exert a force proportional to displacement from a steady-state position. On the other hand, an ideal damper exerts a force proportional to the speed of the object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The procedure to tune an air fork that I have been taught is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set positive chamber air pressure according to a table with rider weights or by measuring sag.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set compression damping according to current trail conditions each time. Aim for the least amount of damping which still avoids repetitive bottom-outs during the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I still struggle to understand why to increase compression damping instead of positive chamber pressure. What would be the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="19299" LastEditDate="2015-05-02T00:57:50.077" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T00:57:50.077" Title="If many bottom-outs are happening, should air pressure or compression damping be increased?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30223" CreationDate="2015-04-30T17:29:07.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For B&amp;amp;B touring on a road bike, large seat bag works nicely. The weight is higher on the bike than with rear rack and panniers, but it solves clearance issues. Carradice of Nelson makes some nice ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake power on a road bike is mostly limited by weight distribution. You will lift the rear wheel before locking the front wheel or running out of braking power, so adding weight to the back is no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T17:29:07.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29587" CreationDate="2015-04-30T18:11:01.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 28-mile round-trip commute that I do from 3-5 days per week.  The trip is a combination of suburban streets, paved bike path and city streets.  I used to do this on a hybrid with a flat bar.  Last fall I swapped for a road-bike with drops and haven't looked back.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest advantages drop-bars give you over flats (aerodynamic considerations aside) is lots of different hand/body positions available to you. The benefit here is avoiding fatigue and repetitive stress injuries.  I typically go between &quot;riding on the hoods&quot; (most of the time) to riding in the upright position on the flat bar (when going slower, or feeling fatigued), to occasionally riding &quot;in the drops&quot; when really speeding or fighting a headwind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will agree that you may encounter some neck soreness at first.  There are a number of factors here ... frame fit, height of the handlebars, etc... but also fitness.  When I first switched, I had to play around with my handlebar positions quite a bit (never got a 'pro' fit), but eventually found a comfy position.  But you also will build up stronger neck muscles, and also learn how to position your head.  I typically am not taking &quot;the long view&quot; most of the time.  I typically look at the ground maybe 20-30 feet in front of me, and lift my head to shift my gaze longer to keep abreast of what lies ahead every so often.  This contributes to a better neck angle most of the time.  It also helps to use that ability to change your hand positions around the drop bars give you!  Changing your hand position will also alter your neck/back angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as finding the brakes awkward, lack of control, etc ... you'll adjust to these very quickly.  That's just a matter of getting used to something different.  I felt a little funny my first few rides out, but now I'm as confident in my control as I've ever been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that the road bike has shaved several minutes off my commute and is overall much more efficient than my hybrid. Lower rolling resistance, lighter bike, more aerodynamic riding position.  It's taken some adjustment of the equipment and my body, but it's well worth it in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19282" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T18:11:01.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30268" CreationDate="2015-04-30T20:47:00.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not specifically addressing your question, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.leelikesbikes.com/fore-aft-balance-when-jumping.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;post from Lee McCormack&lt;/a&gt; addresses body position with jumping.  Between that post and others he's put forth, the answer is: heavy feet and light hands.  i.e. don't absorb the jump with your hands/arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use your arms and legs to adjust the bike to the landing (as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/30281/174&quot;&gt;the answer with the super-slow-mo video shows&lt;/a&gt;) - getting front and back wheels to land at about the same time.  But you should use your legs to do the majority of the absorption (and rear suspension).  Which makes sense - would you rather jump off a table and land on your feet/legs or land on your hands/arms?  I suspect you'd answer with your feet/legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, look at BMX riders - fundamentally, their jumping is no different than MTB jumping, and the landing is all taken in by their legs.  Similar with trials biking as Chris in AK &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/30273/174&quot;&gt;writes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With front suspension you have a little leeway - but don't become dependent on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:47:00.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30191" CreationDate="2015-04-30T21:24:37.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I may have worked out what was doing it. I don't &quot;ankle&quot; (see Sheldon Brown) while pedaling, but while coasting I unconsciously point my toes downward on the extended leg, which seems to have led to the same symptoms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making myself flex my foot at the ankle while coasting instead, and so far so good. Gearing down and pedaling faster has made some difference also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T21:24:37.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29587" CreationDate="2015-04-30T22:02:41.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compare the relative position of the flat bar and the saddle on your current bike. &#xA;(ie. is the flat bar higher/lower than the saddle ? How long is the stem? ) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you demo road bikes, check that the top of the drop bar is at least close to the same&#xA;height wrt to the saddle as your current flat bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop bars aren't that big a change, but you have to be able to get the fit roughly close. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T22:02:41.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-01T04:10:36.663" Score="0" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;i just bought and build a BLB classic frameset. size 53 and im using 700x28c wheelset. but after that, my toe clip touching the front wheelset especially when i want to turn right or left. please help me to solve this prob.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19285" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T06:14:31.540" Title="ask about size and how to solve it" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-05-02T17:13:49.640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30310" CreationDate="2015-05-01T05:23:05.503" Score="0" ViewCount="4300" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not having biked since I was a kid I went ahead and bought a Sirrus 2015 (the base model) for commuting 2x a week (~100 km weekly total) with a view to do 3-5 days. I've done about 1000km on it so far. I'm a fairly heavy guy at (210 lbs but fit from running/lifting) and commute with a backpack. I like the frame, seat and flat bar, but the shifting is slow and imprecise, and I've had it back to the shop a few times now for clunking and clicking in the bottom bracket/crank area. This issue just recently seemed to reoccur. So I'm concerned for the longevity and quality of those components. I've broken the stock pedals too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be upgrading my components? (I would be willing to shell out about $500 or so) What should I target for the budget?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19287" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T14:00:47.980" Title="Upgrading a Specialized Sirrus 2015?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30299" CreationDate="2015-05-01T06:14:31.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have one of two things happening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your fork is on backwards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your frame has toe overlap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A backwards fork should be easy to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toe overlap is common on many frames at low speeds. If thats what it is, you'll just have to get used to it. It's not really a big deal. See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/13060/touching-the-front-wheel-with-my-foot-when-turning/13061#13061&quot;&gt;Touching the front wheel with my foot when turning&lt;/a&gt; for more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T06:14:31.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-01T06:43:33.023" Score="0" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;My touring bike (which I use for commuting) needs repairs which will cost £200... half the price of a new one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not mechanically-minded.... and I am too busy and too old to learn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new bike will cost twice the price. But with the new bike, I get all the things the repairs will bring.... plus new wheels, new tires, a shiny frame (the current one is scarred but not damaged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike shop say repairing is the best option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking.... keep the bike over the summer.... and buy another when the end-of-season sale comes along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The repairs are: a major service, replacement of all the drive mechanism, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice please!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19288" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T09:58:24.627" Title="Is my six-year old touring bike worth repairing?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;&lt;upgrade-or-new-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30546" CreationDate="2015-05-01T08:05:57.640" Score="7" ViewCount="5278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Title says it all. I have a 65L backpack and would like to mount it on bike rack so it's most convenient to ride with and doesn't catch much air friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I'm doing this (sorry for the bad photo quality (it was intended to describe something else) but you can basically see it - putting the big backpack across the rack and securing it with two rubber straps):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuJOg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BuJOg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is that the backpack of course isn't very stable and takes a lot of air friction. I'd like to fix the greatest possible amount of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question -- are there any better backpack mounting methods I didn't think of that would allow me to securely attach the backpack preferably in &quot;vertical&quot; or &quot;lenghtwise parallel with the bike direction&quot; position? Or, is there any equipment or special rack that would allow me to do that without some advanced rubber strap magic? :]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19289" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T21:03:41.137" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T21:37:43.833" Title="Best way to mount a big backpack to rack?" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;luggage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30302" CreationDate="2015-05-01T09:58:24.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As LBS mechanic, I also would recommend to repair - the cost is sufficient. Your bike will be almost as new.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So if it's a bike that worth repair (like mikes mentioned), and your tires and derailleurs are in good condition yet, go for it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you know that you should replace tires or derailleurs soon, better is to buy a new one with all parts new and a warranty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: if you will anyway buy a new bike soon, you should consider whether you want to do all this repair, or a part of it will be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T09:58:24.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30308" CreationDate="2015-05-01T10:13:05.047" Score="2" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at a few options as replacement to my bicycle saddle.&#xA;I have seen these used majorly with roadbikes than MTBs, but I didn't understand in what sense these should be preferred over the ones with no hole, if I may call it so.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fU67f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8605" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T03:42:02.577" Title="Bicycle saddles" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29767" CreationDate="2015-05-01T10:20:04.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The steerer and handlebar diameters have already been addressed, but there is also the matter of brake and shift levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drop bar is thicker than a straight bar, so the mountain levers will not work. If your bike has cantilever brakes, normal road brake levers will work. For V-brakes (I guess bike from the 90s does not have hydraulic disks) you need a lever with higher cable travel such as Dia Compe 287V or Tektro RL520. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifters are a trickier question, and to answer that I would need some more information about the gears. Or, you can go singlespeed :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T10:20:04.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30303" CreationDate="2015-05-01T10:25:18.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more of an extended comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're mounting it on one side, that's likely to be quite a lot of weight off-centre, which will also affect the handling.  I'd aim for vertical, but you'll need something solid underneath to support the weight - like 2/3 of another rack inverted and bolted/clamped to your rack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you might get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dutchbikebits.com/steco-buggy-mee-deluxe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to work -- it's meant for baby buggies (strollers) and holds the weight quite  long way back.  It might not be rated for your loads though.  The parent category of the linked site might be helpful for inspiration even if you're on the wrong continent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd still need some serious strapping as well as a good way of keeping the rucksack straps out of your wheel (perhaps a rucksack cover on the wrong way round).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest not having the load stick out much behind the back axle -- I've extended my rack backwards to mount panniers with a baby seat, and also used the buggy-mee I linked to above, and I found the centre of gravity so far back made the front wheel grip suffer (partially offset by carrying locks etc on the front forks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T10:25:18.560" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30305" CreationDate="2015-05-01T11:56:13.243" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html&quot;&gt;idea of the hole&lt;/a&gt; is to allegedly relieve pressure in the groin area. Works for some people, but depending on the shape of your groin, the edges of the hole can put more pressure on the groin. Part of this is due to hysteria to alleged impotency of riding a bike, and part of it due to it being more comfortable for some people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for MTB vs Road, there exist plenty of saddles which have this feature of both types -- the distinction between MTB and Road saddles is primarily for marketing, though the MTB saddles may be built a bit tougher (e.g. rails or something). The important thing is to have one that fits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T11:56:13.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30300" CreationDate="2015-05-01T12:32:44.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, my friend just bought that bike new and ended up taking it back and getting a similar priced Cannondale, mainly because it came with a Shimano 105 group set. I would look at that as a major upgrade especially if you are experiencing poor shifting. If you have 500 to spend you could probably get an Ultegra group as an even better upgrade and have a really nice performing bike on your hands, as well as lighter. I'm not partial to Shimano so I'd probably check out Sram as well, Rival will be in your price range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new wheel set would be the other major upgrade you could make for 500. There are a ton out there at that price but if shifting is what's bothering you I'd get that taken care of first.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T12:32:44.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30388" CreationDate="2015-05-01T13:24:17.473" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am moving to the Washington DC area and will be working in Bethesda at the NIH. It looks like living in/near Georgetown and commuting out on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capital_Crescent_Trail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Capital Crescent Trail&lt;/a&gt; could be really nice. I was curious what the path conditions are like (e.g., potholes, speed bumps, road crossings, and bike/jogger/car traffic). I would also be interested in other areas that would provide a nice sub 10 mile bike commute to Bethesda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19294" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T22:10:50.113" Title="Bike commuting on the Captial Crescent Trail in Washington DC" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30300" CreationDate="2015-05-01T14:00:47.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting 500 dollars into a Specialized Sirrus is insane, unless you have one of the top end ones which are well over 1000 dollars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say that you need a different bike shop to tune it up -- 210 lbs should not be a problem on a hybrid like the Sirrus, and all of them from the Sport Disc upward are spec'd with decent components for commuting. If you were to be willing to spend 500 dollars though, I'd sell the Sirrus and get something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also read &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; on troubleshooting bike noises -- since a bike is made out of tubes, its pretty hard actually to figure out where exactly a noise is coming from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T14:00:47.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30303" CreationDate="2015-05-01T14:11:15.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is more than just air friction to consider.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you extend the rack back then you would have too much weight aft and it would make the font wheel lite (it may even bring it off the ground).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vertical you don't have base size to secure and now you have weight higher. The bike would be wobbly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are not going to have a lot of speed. I would go the current orientation for stability. If you have steel rack you could weld in extensions.  You should go steel - a Surly steel rack is like $140.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would pull some weight like bag / tent and strap it to the handle bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not cheap but a trailer.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.burley.com/page_12208/travoy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;travoy&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or even more money a cargo bike like a Surly Big Dummy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T16:14:51.477" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T16:14:51.477" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30292" CreationDate="2015-05-01T16:16:02.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increasing positive chamber pressure would reduce bottom-outs, but at the expense of reduced &quot;up&quot; travel.  Increasing compression damping will also reduce bottom-outs but without reducing &quot;up&quot; travel.  This would have the negative effect of reducing the shock's compliance which will make the ride harsher, so it's a balancing act where the goal is to optimize the shock's action for the riding you do and how you want the shock to work for you.  If you mostly ride smooth trails but with occasional drops, then increasing positive chamber pressure so that you can keep compression damping low while still not bottoming out very often might work best.  If the shock is bottoming out every time you hit a big rock, then may you have to increase both positive chamber pressure and compression damping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find an effective combo that doesn't reduce bottoming out, then maybe you need a longer-travel fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19298" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T16:16:02.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30316" CreationDate="2015-05-01T19:24:14.400" Score="7" ViewCount="64818" Body="&lt;p&gt;i got one floor pump with a so called &quot;smart valve&quot;. it came with no instructions whatsoever. and I'm not smart enough to use it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried it on both type of tire valves, and no matter what i do, it never press the internal valve mechanism to allow air in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is similar to this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZacDa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should i use it? do i have to turn something on the tip to adapt to either type of valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1635" LastEditorUserId="1635" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T19:39:04.677" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T18:13:49.803" Title="how to use &quot;smart valve&quot; pumps?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30315" CreationDate="2015-05-01T19:42:01.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.filzer.com/products.php?id=87&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a pump&lt;/a&gt; with what looks like an identical head.  Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.filzer.com/img/products/87-instructions1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;instruction pdf&lt;/a&gt; that they provide. The instructions provided are as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the dust cap from the tire valve. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For Presta valves, unscrew locking nut at the &#xA;end of the valve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipe off any mud or dirt from the outside &#xA;surface of the valve stem; this ensures the pump's &#xA;Clever Head will work properly.  Also, release &#xA;some air from the tube by pressing the air release &#xA;tip on the valve to clean its inner parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the Clever Head on to the Presta or &#xA;Schrader valve stem as far as it will go and open &#xA;the thumb lever to the locked position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pressure gauge has a red arrow on the &#xA;bezel that you can rotate to the desired pressure &#xA;for easier reading.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infate your tire by lifting the pump handle up &#xA;and pressing down.  Do not over pressurize tire; &#xA;see side wall of tire for maximum pressure value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the pressure release valve to lower and &#xA;adjust tire pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the thumb lever to the unlocked position &#xA;and remove the Clever Head from the valve stem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For Presta valves, tighten the locking nut at the &#xA;end of the valve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace dust cap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For presta valves, I usually don't undo the locking nut the entire way, as I've had problems with them bending and snapping.  Only undoing it half way seems to prevent this for the most part. Also, After I've mounted the pump in step 4, I press the air release button. If you hear air coming out, then it ensures the pump head is seated properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2015-11-21T21:35:26.597" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T21:35:26.597" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29232" CreationDate="2015-05-01T20:56:02.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You most certainly &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; use a PTFE spray after cleaning, but, I would use a high quality chain lube instead.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this dry teflon lube on my drivetrain and use a precision applicator to lube my derailleurs after I clean the drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I wouldn't use any WD40 branded lubricant on my bike.  Also, I'd recommend not using a spray type applicator to apply lubricant on small parts.  I like to use the precision applicator, i.e. the long, skinny straw, to be able to reach into all the pivots of the derailleurs and accurately apply the lube.  The spray can be messy and will often contaminate other parts of your bike, like rotors or brake tracks on your wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'Dry' lube is nice because it doesn't pick up that much road grime in the derailleurs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GXAKb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:56:02.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30280" CreationDate="2015-05-01T21:05:41.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends what kind of lock you have. If it took a thief a failed attempt I assume it's a good one, so take it to a locksmith or anyone with power tools, preferably with a proof of ownership of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The harder it is to destroy, the more convinced you should be that you should buy the exact same lock again :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:05:41.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14858" CreationDate="2015-05-01T21:14:16.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with most comments, your style of riding and your tire size make a big difference, and any bike should hold with proper care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you are concerned with the road quality being extremely bad you can always buy a cyclocross bike, which have similar characteristics to a road or endurance bike but tougher frame/components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you can perfectly go carbon, just make sure they were designed for your type of riding (there are carbon bike frames/components for extreme riding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:14:16.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14858" CreationDate="2015-05-02T03:33:12.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a road bike in Seattle with 700x25 tires and find that you can ride on anything so long as you pay close attention to the road and are willing to put more thought into handling the bike. I find that there's an inverse relationship between the size/width of tire and the level of attention/handling when you ride. A touring bike is a great option because it has the same set-up as a road bike with the larger tires of a hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind that you'll likely have to change thin tires more often compared to a hybrid tire if you ride through the rough stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14062" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T03:33:12.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30305" CreationDate="2015-05-02T03:42:02.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saddles are in their very nature uncomfortable when used for long periods of time. A hole may help with ventilation and pressure on the groin, but any exaggerated claims about this design are unfounded. I use a saddle with no hole (a Brooks) that is comfortable and I've used cut-out saddles that have been comfortable, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want a saddle that supports you by your ischial tuberosities (the two points at the bottom of your pelvis also known as your &quot;sit bones&quot;). If you don't feel supported by those points, you will be uncomfortable with or without a cut-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14062" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T03:42:02.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-02T05:55:16.093" Score="5" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a road bike after having ridden a dutch style bike for over a year and a half. The roads that I ride on have the usual gravel and dirt on them but every now and then my road bike goes over tiny pebbles in the road and ends up throwing them (I hear the sound of them bouncing off stuff behind me). Today was the worst because while going very slow I heard a pebble get whacked right in a car at the red light. I apologized and everything but is this normal with road bikes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19305" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T08:34:50.120" Title="Road Bike Tire Throwing Rocks" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30323" CreationDate="2015-05-02T08:34:50.120" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher pressure (eg 100 psi, 6-7 bar) of the tires can squeeze stones out quite quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, yes, sometimes they can hit nearby cars, cyclists, dogs, cats, ... .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride on :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T08:34:50.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-02T11:58:52.720" Score="4" ViewCount="8155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am now in training for cycling. Long time didn't got into bike. I am using a 21 gear mountain bike with highest gear, and around 70 - 80rpm. What's surprise me is my average speed only 12km/h(recorded from strava) and 14km/h(recorded from mapmyride).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering whether i am using the wrong gear? I thought that the higher with the same rpm will move faster than a lower gear with same rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12km/h is much slower than my expectation. I expect 70rpm would be 20km/h or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19307" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T05:04:26.403" Title="average cycling speed 12km/h" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30325" CreationDate="2015-05-02T12:37:11.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can calculate your speed vs cadence using this &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/&quot;&gt;online calculator&lt;/a&gt;. You want your cadence to be roughly 80 rpm (60 being the lower bound). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 42t chainring and 14t cog in the back (not uncommon for a 26&quot; mtb -- this is big ring in front, small in back), you should be doing around 31 kph at 80 RPM, so chances are you're either spinning too fast in a too low gear or spinning too slow in a too high gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T12:37:11.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30409" CreationDate="2015-05-02T14:08:22.857" Score="3" ViewCount="4905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Garmin Edge 200 to record the route, distance and speed of my rides. It also gives me a prediction of the amount of calories I have burned on any particular ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only data I have given it is my weight. It must use the speed and elevation GPS data to calculate a prediction but id like to know how accurate that can be if it doesn't take things like wind strength &amp;amp; direction, quality of surface and tyre type into consideration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I went for a 50km ride today and it informed me I burnt 1200  calories. Is this in the correct order of magnitude?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18733" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T03:53:20.513" Title="How accurate is the 'calories burned' figure on my GPS device?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gps&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30327" CreationDate="2015-05-02T15:21:17.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;By order of magnitude if you mean by a factor of 10 then most likely yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have wind, rolling, and gradient resistance.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is going to be spot on for gradient resistance so if you have a hilly ride it will be more accurate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly it does not account for wind.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect it assumes a mid level road bike on decent pavement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At speeds over 10 mph rolling resistance is the smallest of the three.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So it is going to be off on what is typically the smallest factor.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;See the graph in the link:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rolling_resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rolling_resistance&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a hilly road ride with no wind it is probably with 10% overall.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding flats drafting in a group it is going to be off by a lot.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Trail riding it is going to be off by a lot.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T15:21:17.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30327" CreationDate="2015-05-02T22:57:23.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Garmin 800 which includes heart rate in addition to speed and elevation. Heart rate tells it what my actual level of effort is, so that should take wind and all those other variables into account. It also knows my age, gender and weight, so with all that data it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to estimate calories burned pretty closely, or at least as closely as is possible outside a laboratory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, according to my Garmin I should lose almost 20 pounds every year during riding season. Sadly, I must report that hasn't happened yet. Not even close. Yes, my calorie intake and levels of other activities during riding season remain the same, so if I'm burning, say, 3500 calories per week riding my bike like Garmin says, then I should be losing a pound a week, give or take*. In practice, though, I find that I lose maybe 5 pounds over the entire season, which is 75% less than Garmin predicted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;I say &quot;give or take&quot; because weight loss and calories aren't a simple equation. There are dozens of variables involved and no two people are the same, but the margin of error should be somewhere in the 10-20% range, or at least less than 50%, and definitely not the 75% error I see consistently.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I therefore conclude that Garmin and the other half-dozen fitness apps/gizmos I've tried all grossly exaggerate calorie usage. Why? Because looking at your expensive gizmo and seeing a huge number of calories burned makes you happy and sells more product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, based on my admittedly casual and anecdotal observations, I would recommend subtracting 50-75% from whatever Garmin says for a reasonably accurate estimate of calorie burn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T22:57:23.700" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30327" CreationDate="2015-05-02T23:04:33.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion it is only a usable value data point to compare against the same previous data point. An unfit person will burn more calories at a given level of exercise (based on heart rate and other factors) than a fit person. An unfit person will have a less efficient heart and circulatory system. A calorie usage point can't be made without calculating the level of exertion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T23:04:33.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-02T23:16:16.730" Score="3" ViewCount="2455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden bikes all my life.  Now nearing 50, for the past year or two I've noticed that when I ride over 20km or so, my lower back gets extremely painful - enough to make it not possible to ride.  The bike is the same one I've already had, so it's not a bike-fit issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the bike is breaking down, I need to replace it.  I'm worried about getting a bike that I won't be able to ride for anything other than short commutes because of back pain...and not finding this out until the first 20km+ ride.    A short test ride of a new bike isn't going to be enough to determine whether it will trigger pain.  Knowing that it's the lower back, what style of bike should I consider?  I currently have a mountain bike and am thinking either of a touring bike or hybrid.  I probably don't have storage space for a recumbent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and current bike is a mountain bike.   In the past I did heaps of touring on it, with no issues.  Now I use it for commuting, and sub-20km rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19311" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T06:24:05.750" Title="Best kind of bicycle for lower back issues?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;muscle-pain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30331" CreationDate="2015-05-02T23:47:35.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a touring bike and I find it quite comfortable. But them again, I don't have back issues. It's a bit more upright than most road bikes, and possibly more upright than some hybrids I've seen, as long as I'm riding on the hoods. Try to find a place that rents bikes or will let you have an extended trial ride in order to determine if it would help fix your issues. Spending $100 renting a few different models for a few hours at a time could save you a lot of money and help you find a bike that's comfortable for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T23:47:35.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30331" CreationDate="2015-05-03T03:41:49.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple causes of back pain; it's the most common human ailment, and the solution is unlikely to be simply given in an Internet forum answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because you've ridden the same bike for years does not mean it fits you. For example a slightly incorrect fit could be &lt;em&gt;causing&lt;/em&gt; the problem. And your body can change over time; perhaps you've gained some weight, or lost some flexibly. So what used to fit may not fit now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would definitely recommend a professional bike fitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another cause of back pain is low core strength. Do look into this one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third thing to consider is gearing. Perhaps you're trying to pedal too hard, especially before you're thoroughly warmed up. Perhaps you're trying to be too quick on those short rides. This is easily overcome by using a higher cadence, or to look at it another way, use a lower gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get a sports medicine person involved, such as a physiotherapist. Some of them can do the bike fit as well as diagnose causes and treat symptoms. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T03:41:49.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-03T06:19:52.663" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey guys i have a simple cycle .It do not have gears in it but today while cycling , my rear tyre suddenly gets tilted towards right hand side . One of the , the upper side is tilted towards right and the other side bottom part is tilted towards left hand  ..plz help me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19314" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T07:18:29.073" Title="Tyre suddenly gets tilted" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30331" CreationDate="2015-05-03T06:24:05.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It sounds obvious but look at the angle of your back in your normal&#xA;riding position and consider going more vertical. Proper fit for a&#xA;time trial racer and vs. somebody who wants to get around town and&#xA;get some exercise will give vastly different angles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try a recumbent. These put you in an aero position and the seatback lets you push hard against the pedals yet it's very easy on the back. I was lucky enough to demo one for three weeks and really enjoyed the change. At the time I was looking for an urban bike and a recumbent wasn't ideal for slicing between traffic and parked cars or hopping curbs when needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years ago I went from a pretty aggressive riding position on a drop bar bike to a more level flat bar road bike and the stiff necks I used to have completely went away. Totally worth it. Since then many manufacturers have come out with more relaxed, &quot;endurance&quot; geometries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7738" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T06:24:05.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30334" CreationDate="2015-05-03T07:18:29.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheel nuts on the ends of the axle may have been a bit loose allowing the axle to shift a bit in the frame. Try loosening both nuts with a spanner, centre the wheel carefully, then tighten the nuts again (need to be good and tight). Then re-check that the wheel is running correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19220" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T07:18:29.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30341" CreationDate="2015-05-03T16:19:47.470" Score="2" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;After recently falling and bending the rim a bit I was wondering if forcefully applying the brakes while in motion help it straighten a bit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might be my imagination but it seems much truer than right after the fall after constantly applying the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13681" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T18:40:54.777" Title="Would rim brakes help a slightly bent rim?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-03T16:55:59.637" Score="1" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have owned a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwinnbikes.com/usa/bikes/hybrid/network-3-11#/specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Swhinn Network 3.0&lt;/a&gt; (21-speed. Square tapered BB. All aluminum) for almost 5 months, and at about month 3 the bottom bracket started giving me some noise. I work in a bike shop on my UNI's campus so I opened it, purged, and re-lubed it. All was well. The it made noise again in two weeks. Rinse and repeat. Then again a few days ago it stopped turning. I got it to move again, but learned the bearing case (the little metal ring with the hooks that holds the little balls) had been flattened, pressed, warped, and demolished, so I removed both of them and put two more bearings in each side (22 bearings total) to occupy the excessively empty space and it worked fine for another two days until it started clicking again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am giving up on it and want to buy a non-servicing BB, but with all the acronyms and numbers and measurements I am not completely sure I can accurately pick the right one and not waste my (limited) money. Sheldon Brown is extremely confusing, and I can't make heads or tails of what he is saying, and can't seem to find my current BB on there anyway. What I have found that seem like they'll work and why/why not are listed below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001EIAZ7A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano BB-UN26&lt;/a&gt; - My bikes BB case (Terminology?) is 68mm, and the spindle is 125mm. It seems like the 68x123 might work, and thats only bringing each crank 1mm closer. Or I cuold play it safer with the 68x127.5 and tolerate the extra 1.25mm on each side (easy peasy, right?). My issue with it is the plastic cup. Is that a bad idea? Also, whould chainline matter at all if I get a BB with equal spindle length?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano BB-UN55 (can't link, but it is on amazon) - Basically the same as UN26, but with an alloy cup instead of plastic. My frame is aluminum, so would this be bad to get, or good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any BBs you prefer that you'd recommend, or can I just run with one of these? I only have a week before I lose access to my tools, so time is also a factor, and if I can get it on Amazon Prime that would be most preferable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19320" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T20:12:58.337" Title="Replacing my bottom bracket. I need help IDing a replacement" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-03T17:20:12.190" Score="1" ViewCount="1696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Giant Rapid 4, bought in 2009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When freewheeling (i.e. rolling forward but not pedalling) on my bicycle, the chain catches. I had a look and I think this is because the rear cassette sometimes gets 'caught' slightly and moves with the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't seem to be a problem when pedalling, but when I am not pedalling and the front gears are not moving, the chain catches. It actually broke my chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just put a new chain on, but I'm reluctant to ride it until this problem is resolved fully, otherwise the new chain will be stressed and may break again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what could cause the rear cassette to be 'carried' forward by the wheel? Is it a bearings problem, or do I need a new cassette? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit. I took off the cassette and dismantled the hub, it was the freehub body which was broken. It sounded and felt like one of the bearings inside it was broken. However the Shimano freehub disassembly tool is no longer sold and I couldn't find one second hand. The rim was worn anyway so I treated myself to new wheels and reused the old cassette, which was still ok.              &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19321" LastEditorUserId="19321" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T07:55:57.897" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T07:55:57.897" Title="Rear cassette 'ticking' forward, making chain catch, what is the problem and how do I solve it?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30338" CreationDate="2015-05-03T17:20:44.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer to the question is, &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider and compare the braking force to the other acting forces, and which would overcome the other; drive side and non-drive side &lt;strong&gt;spokes pulling radially and laterally&lt;/strong&gt; on the wheel (this can be quite a high amount of force when adding all of the spokes together. It takes all of your weight, as well as any impacts you sustain while riding.) &lt;strong&gt;Rotational force and momentum&lt;/strong&gt; is another major factor, and it is often at or well above your weight. The amount of force that a road caliper can apppy (or any caliper) is well below any of these other forces. A disc brake may be an exception, since I've heard of extreme circumstances in which a disc brake could actually rip a hub from a rim, but that has little to do with the lateral true of a rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another component, directly related to you question of being &quot;in motion&quot;, is that the braking power of most calipers is not perfectly symmetrical, because of caliper design or because of imperfect setup. With these asymmetrical and off-center forces, the rim is often pushed to one side creating a high/low tension in the spokes between either side. The asymmetrical and off-center force also create a certain amount of twisting in the wheel that has a similar rotation as that of the nipples threading onto the spokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In essence, braking always has a deteriorative effect on trueness.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18996" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T17:20:44.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30340" CreationDate="2015-05-03T17:32:53.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely the free hub is sticking.  The grease can get old and sticky.  Service the hub.  Lots of videos on youtube. Or take the hub to a shop.  And you can wear out a hub - some parts are serviceable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sticky hub is not likely to break a chain but it is a problem that needs to be corrected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-05-03T17:40:40.853" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T17:40:40.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30339" CreationDate="2015-05-03T17:46:36.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have done your homework correctly. You need a square drive bottom bracket with a shaft length as close to 125mm as you can get to fit a 68mm frame. I have taken out quite a few of the plastic cup units with no issues, but I prefer the metal one. But that is just personal choice. Take a look at the area of the chain stay (the tube from the rear axle to the bottom bracket) for crank clearance. Some frames run the big ring very close and bringing the crank closer may cause an issue. You can use a shim behind the crank- side cup to move it out to the same location as original. It is doubtful you will notice the difference if the nondrive side is a mm closer to the centerline. you will likely have to fine adjust the front derailleur when your done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T17:46:36.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30338" CreationDate="2015-05-03T18:40:54.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No way the brakes trued the wheels.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it is possible the brakes realigned in a way they rubbed less.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T18:40:54.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2544" CreationDate="2015-05-03T19:01:01.877" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Epic Bleed Solution did an amazing post explaining the details of hydraulic disc brakes, covering concepts and mechanic principles, different fluids, pads, rotors, etc. It's a very good introduction to hydraulic disc brakes that you can find here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/how-hydraulic-brakes-work/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/how-hydraulic-brakes-work/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T19:01:01.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24484" CreationDate="2015-05-03T19:15:04.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to bike rumors, these two bikes have different Cr-Mo tubing, with one being a higher end material. You can find more information &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/07/17/2014-specialized-goes-awol-for-adventure-disc-for-cx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T19:15:04.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-03T20:11:54.733" Score="3" ViewCount="1215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old threaded headset and quill stem. Recently I overhauled the headset; replacing the bearing sleeves with loose bearings (filled to max and removed 1 bearing). The stem was also found to be too large to fit back in, and was replaced with a proper fitting one by a bicycle shop that specializes in older used bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when I am riding I get this strange gyroscopic effect while riding (&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/weird-gyro-effect-while-riding-829342.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see this post for similar issue&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When riding in a straight line I can feel a push and pull to one side or the other, as if a ghost is steering my handlebars in millimeter amount, but enough to notice. It almost feels as if my headset is drunk, wobbling around in circles. A similar feeling would be turning your neck in circles as if stretching your neck... just not as intensely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried loosening the headset to the point where when I pick up the bike the handlebar smoothly drifts over to one side from the weight of the wheel being picked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter if the quill stem is tightened or loosened after the threaded headset is adjusted? I don't think it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm lost here! Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/16bGz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9H6Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOpMU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19325" LastEditorUserId="19325" LastEditDate="2015-05-03T20:35:17.033" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T00:31:13.373" Title="Weird gyro effect while riding" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30339" CreationDate="2015-05-03T20:12:58.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a choice, go with the BB that has 2 metal sides. That plastic cup is a PITA. The notches in the plastic cup the tool fits in are pretty shallow, too shallow in my opinion. It is tricky to remove or install the plastic cup without using one hand to hold the tool in place. If you let the tool slip the metal tool will do big damage to the plastic cup. Clean the threads on the bike throughly before trying the install. Some people recommend grease on the metal side of the new BB and none on the plastic side if yours has one. &#xA;Take your time and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18926" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T20:12:58.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9319" CreationDate="2015-05-03T21:01:34.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had constantly the same problem with my Presta valve stems. Finally I widened the hole in the rim, inserted a rubber grommet and used a few turns of double sided hockey tape on the rim. Two years later and I never had this problem again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19326" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T21:01:34.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30106" CreationDate="2015-05-03T21:02:10.753" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend doing two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reassemble the hub with the thickest grease you can find (within reason). It might slow you down a little, but it will help the bearings last as long as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a mark on the back side of the cone that corresponds to where the damage is. When you're putting the wheel on, rotate the axle so that the damaged side of the cone is facing up. Then (assuming you adjusted the hub perfectly), there will be no pressure at all on the damaged side of the cone, and all the pressure on the good side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T21:02:10.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30353" CreationDate="2015-05-03T22:58:47.937" Score="0" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do pedal-driven bi/tricycles exist which can be driven at highway speeds without fuel or electric drive assistance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assisted brakes, steering, lights, and amenities such as climate control or navigation are valid addons as long as the drive system is manually operated. Drive assistance must be limited to gearing (and perhaps flywheels.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19327" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T00:01:26.677" Title="Do pedal-driven bicycles exist that can handle highway commutes?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30352" CreationDate="2015-05-04T00:01:26.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Tour De France currently has an average speed of about 40km/h, fasted speeds are a team time trial, about 58km/h over 25km. (Wikipedia), average cyclist would be with 1/2 those speeds, average person probably half again. These speeds, while impressive, are well below what I would consider &quot;highway speeds&quot;, and the bikes they rode , while expensive enough to expect it as standard equipment rather than optional extra, certainly did not have climate control and power assisted steering&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An elite athlete can output about 1000 Watts peak, 700W over 10 minutes, and sustain about 300Watts of power indefinitely.  A normal person half of that* &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Climate control in a car requires about 3000W. A small car engine produces about 50000W, a super car engine, 500000W.&#xA;The more power you need to go faster climbs exponentially, so a cyclist maintaining say 30km/h needs 10 times the power to go 100km/h (and that seems light to me). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is presuming all the extras weight nothing and do not increase rolling and aerodynamic losses, but lets argue that those are offset by technology that improves efficiency .  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to create a cycle that can cruise at highway speeds, with Climate control and power assisted everything, you will need to create a rider with a power output of about 10kW-20kW. At this time, society will have bigger problems than highway congestion and climate change - like feeding and controlling these 10kW humanoids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Actual number may be out by a factor of 10, but  does not change the disccusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: Note the recent drop in average Tour speed? When did the drug doping scandal happen? I'll let the reader decide..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T00:01:26.677" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T01:45:19.150" Score="-1" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, this happened.  All of this group of bolts but the one you see came out of my crankset:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l9jwz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is.. how exactly do all those bolts wriggle themselves loose !?  &lt;em&gt;How do I determine what bolt I need&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's be honest: I'm not nice to transmissions. I weigh well over 200 lbs, my maximum measured output is about 1000 watts (briefly) and I ride in a fairly big gear all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what actually &lt;em&gt;happens&lt;/em&gt; so that they vibrate out? I didn't think there was enough force to turn against threads offering lateral resistance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm  more a commuter than a sportsman, should I suspect sabatoge?  (Ie, I leave it for 8+ hours at a time.)  To be fair, I hadn't inspected these in errr.... uggh.... well over 500 miles according to my odometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used motorcycle chain lube (it was what the hardware store had.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T22:54:05.540" Title="How did this happen to my chainring?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29518" CreationDate="2015-05-04T01:47:46.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hub brake (any kind, coaster brake, drum brake, disk brake) exerts a &lt;em&gt;torque&lt;/em&gt; at the hub which is transmitted to the rim through all the spokes, or if the hub barrel is flexible, mostly through all on the side with the brake: leading spokes loosening, trailing spokes tightening -- opposite the load from pedaling. Because this load is transmitted through many spokes, its effect on the tension of any of them is relatively small as long as the wheel has a near-tangential cross pattern and large enough hub flange spoking diameter. The force on any particular spoke is less than that of the weight load, which is carried by reduction of tension of only a few spokes at the bottom of the rim. It would help to read Jobst Brandt's book &quot;The Bicycle Wheel&quot; to understand this in more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="19332" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T01:54:52.947" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T01:54:52.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30325" CreationDate="2015-05-04T05:04:26.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say the highest gear on a 21 speed mtb bike. This would be the largest chain-wheel &amp;amp; the smallest cog. The largest chain-wheel is most likely a 48t. The smallest cog could be in the range of 11t to 14t. Let's say it's a 14t.  At 70-80 rpm with a 48t x 14t, your speed would be somewhere around 30kph to 34kph.  (any cog smaller than 14t would produce and even faster speed) If you are truly turning 70-80 rpms (how are you checking this?) and if your speed is only 12 to 14kph then you are not in the highest gear.&#xA;Shift to the highest gear. Now LOOK at the position of the chain. Is the chain on the outside/largest chain-ring and the smallest rear cog?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T05:04:26.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30359" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T07:37:18.357" Score="1" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alex Dowsett recently set a new world hour record of 52.937 kilometres, how much power did he have to produce for an hour to be able to achieve this feat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T00:09:20.480" Title="what power did alex dowsett put out during his hour record?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30355" CreationDate="2015-05-04T12:13:38.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have lost a bolt from my a chain ring and have been completely unaware of it for weeks.  I had to have it pointed out to me by a mechanic. In retrospect there was a little more rattle than normal.   I guess it is possible one could lose two and not know it either.  Once two come off there would be more rattling I would guess.  The amount would depend on where the remaining are aligned.  The rattle would probably then lead to the third one to come lose more easily at which point it would pivot.  I now check them frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19335" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T12:13:38.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30366" CreationDate="2015-05-04T12:59:09.497" Score="2" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1971 Raleigh International whose Campagnolo Nuovo Record chainset has Campy pedals that are 'frozen' into their threads (I know, this is an instance of neglected maintenance).  I really like this bike and its components - pedals included - and would like to have lower gearing than typically possible with a 2-ring chainset (have 42 rear/34 front, now). I'm looking for a master bike machinist who could tap an additional set of 5 holes to accept the 5 sleeves for a triple crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19336" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T16:39:37.700" Title="Does anyone know of a machinist who could convert a dual ring Campy Nuovo Record chainset ('spider') to accept a 3rd chainring?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30361" CreationDate="2015-05-04T13:53:12.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tap another 5 holes is not enough.  There needs to be metal to space it out that I suspect is not there.  Just add a spacer would probably not handle the load. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you do attach are you sure there is room on the bike?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are sure you can find triple front derailleur for that bike?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get past all that you may end up with chain line issues.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at getting a bigger cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T14:26:54.040" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T14:26:54.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2015-05-04T14:07:24.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me the big advantages of the triple (eg 52/39/30) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The two cogs 52 &amp;amp; 39 on the front for almost all riding - a classic double with ratios not too far apart, 39 ideal for rolling country. I never spin out on downhills unlike compact riders with their 50/34&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;30 on the front for very steep hills or when I am weary/totally knackered towards the end of a big sportive eg the last climb on the Etape du Tour. I combine this with a 12-30 10 speed cassette for a lowest of 30 - 30. I have seen many compact double riders unable to maintain a sensible cadence and cramped from the strain on steep hills or very long climbs (though I suppose they could have used SRAM 'climbers' kit with a cassette biggest sprocket of 32)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19220" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T14:07:24.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30359" CreationDate="2015-05-04T14:15:34.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/pro-bike-alex-dowsetts-canyon-speedmax-whr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to Canyon&lt;/a&gt;, it would be approximately 400 watts average. Since an hour record attempt requires that there be no computer on the bike to be official, a more accurate measurement is unlikely to be available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T14:15:34.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30361" CreationDate="2015-05-04T14:29:46.610" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drilling a crank that old is not a great idea. They weren't that strong to begin with and 40+ years of use hasn't made then any stronger. I would not do anything to further weaken them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, if the pedals are frozen I'd think twice about using that crank. Aluminum corrosion expands and can create stress that crack the material ( similar to the way ice can expand and split a crack in a boulder).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that aside, if you look hard enough you can find a &quot;tripleizer&quot; ring. This is a special inner ring that &#xA;includes the mounts for a smaller inner ring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qhgYY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up of TA Tripleizer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintage-trek.com/tripleizer.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vintage Trek Tripleizer Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bike that old, there's a reasonable chance that you won't need a new bottom &#xA;bracket to allow the inner ring to clear the chainstays. Also, there's a pretty good chance the existing derailler cage will be low enough to allow use of the small chainring. Back then there was no such thing as a &quot;triple&quot; front derailluer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifting will require a bit of practice compared to modern triples; you will drop the &#xA;chain, so get a Dog Fang or other chain catcher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want components that are modern but look old and don't cost the insane price of&#xA;used campagnolo on Ebay; Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velo-orange.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Velo Orange Components&lt;/a&gt; This should bring back some&#xA;memories. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AocPO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;48/34 Drillium Crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That crank is a 34/48 that I think would be a really good choice for an upgrade on a older bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T16:39:37.700" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T16:39:37.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21259" CreationDate="2015-05-04T14:48:52.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for posting this problem. I have exactly the same with my Cannondale Synapse alloy 2009 (Tiagra triple). During every ride I have to tighten the micro-adjuster. After renewing cables, housings, bottom bracket guide etc several times I have finally reached the conclusion it's the barrel adjuster itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19339" LastEditorUserId="7701" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T12:42:50.557" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T12:42:50.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T16:03:15.707" Score="1" ViewCount="1805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Giant Defy 3 and I'm not sure how tight the seat post bolts should be. I don't have a torque Allen key. Is doing the two bolts on the ring that goes around the frame as tight as I can do them with my hands ok? It's an aluminium frame. I don't  I want to cause any damage to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19341" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T23:45:01.330" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T23:45:01.330" Title="Seat post tightening" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T17:23:27.710" Score="1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been offered possession of a very old and interesting bicycle, made in 1933. It appears to be in quite good condition, and has a lot of interesting history. However, it features a 26'' frame, which is rather large for 6'0'' me. In fact, I usually ride a 22'' frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the era of production, the length of the bike is actually fine, and it's just the hight that is off. I'm wondering what sort of things I might do to mitigate this, as part of a larger restoration project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only one that occurs so far is to perhaps reduce the wheel size to 26''. Naturally this could cause problems with the brakes, but I can see several ways around that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other things might be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2513" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T19:31:16.700" Title="What accommodations might be made for riding a frame 4'' too large?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30369" CreationDate="2015-05-04T17:40:21.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from lowering the seat, you might also look for handlebars that curve/point backward to prevent the rider from leaning forward too much.  But this really also depends on the rider's arm and leg lengths.  Can you find a smaller bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19343" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T17:40:21.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30373" CreationDate="2015-05-04T18:28:08.410" Score="8" ViewCount="19980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I talked to a bike shop that sells a lot of fixed/single speed bikes. I asked them if they could sell me a single speed with a disc brake on the front. The guys said no because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will be hard to find a frame that supports that&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is silly and not really needed and a waste of my money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he is correct about the money part, then what would be a better place to put that money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bit of background: I commute year round, and I really like the stopping power i get on my mountain bike (with disc) during the winter / rain. I also tend to ride 20-25mph in Boston.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="3777" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T19:37:25.673" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T15:39:59.687" Title="Is having a disc brake on a single speed bicycle a bad idea?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30371" CreationDate="2015-05-04T18:49:16.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brake not break.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A disc brake kind of violates the whole minimalist single speed karma.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said front disc brake is not a frame thing.  Just install a front fork that will take a disc brake. Doubt anyone is going to have an off the rack that way as it violates the karma thing. It is a money thing as it is (likely) a custom build.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to find SS disc in cylcocross (CX) as there is SS heat and disc is common in CX.  You will get a bike designed for CX with front and rear disc, knobby tires, and geared for CX.  It can be a nice commuter bike but it will not be the same geometry as a street fixie / SS.  You are not going to find many CX bikes under $1000 new as they are selling to the racing crowd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really just want disc you are seeing them more and more on street bikes but you are not going to find (many) SS (outside CX).  Look at something like a Salsa Collosal. You won't find disc on race bikes as UCI does not allow it. You will find disc on cheaper mtn bikes as mtn bikes are pretty much expected to have disc any more.  On road you are not going to find disc on cheaper bikes as disc is not the standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T11:55:04.640" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T11:55:04.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30371" CreationDate="2015-05-04T18:51:39.017" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, there are lot's and lot's of commuter bikes with internal hubs and disk brakes. I see &#xA;no reason why a single speed wouldn't work as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A google search for &quot;single speed cx bike disk brakes&quot; turns up this beauty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://allcitycycles.com/bikes/nature_boy_disc&quot;&gt;http://allcitycycles.com/bikes/nature_boy_disc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are low budget models out there as well. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_576973_-1___204735&quot;&gt;Nashbar 29'r Single Speed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swobo makes one, you can build a Surly &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/straggler&quot;&gt;Straggler&lt;/a&gt; up as a single speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting exactly what you want will likely cost a bit more, but that should be&#xA;for you to decide if it is worth it. If you're going to commute in the rain,&#xA;my opinion is that a disk brake is well worth the extra expense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd go to a different bike shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T19:06:32.447" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T19:06:32.447" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T20:46:22.330" Score="2" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would much appreciate it if someone could help me identify this bike? The decals says Viner, but I think the bike is from a different manufacture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some images: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Dy4X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4g8TM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LBngS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19344" LastEditorUserId="19344" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T21:32:22.433" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T03:05:59.667" Title="Could someone help me identify this bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30382" CreationDate="2015-05-04T20:48:26.020" Score="1" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just been given a Rayleigh Chiltern. The only problem is, the cable has unattached from the gear shifter. I Googled how to re thread, but the cable isn't long enough at the top end to slide right into the length of the shifter - it barely fits inside the shifter at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use the excess cable at the hub end (if so how?) or am I just doing something wrong? Never done this before, so any advice would be massively welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19345" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T12:22:26.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T12:22:26.687" Title="cable too short to reattach into a sturmey archer 3 speed shifter" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30375" CreationDate="2015-05-04T20:57:25.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cables have special ends on the brake lever / shifter lever side which you need in order to hook the cable into the lever. A brake cable end for mountain bikes looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wLEHv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't add these ends to an existing cable. If the cable is broken near the lever, then almost surely the part of the cable with the end is not going to be long enough. Thus, if you don't have a cable end, buy a new cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's quite dangerous to have a broken brake cable, so you should get that fixed asap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have the appropriate cable with end, you just need to remove the cable tension (disconnect it), and then thread it through the part of the lever which can grab the cable as shown &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/brake-levers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T20:57:25.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30374" CreationDate="2015-05-04T22:36:18.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They were an Italian manufacturer, I'm not sure if the branding has been resold since the 70's as there are new bikes now with the same name. &#xA;They were used professionally and known for their lug ornamentation on some models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been a few folks with similar questions here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/175841-vintage-viner.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/175841-vintage-viner.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19346" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T22:36:18.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30371" CreationDate="2015-05-04T22:41:51.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, simply purchase a fork that will accept a disc mount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be some initial cost to set it up but you'll save money in the long run just in wheels alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would certainly suggest another shop to have the work done or a different mechanic at that shop, it would have taken them 15 minutes to get you a list of forks and options from their vendors and then to write you an estimate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to make the conversion to disc, consider going hydraulic; very responsive which is a huge plus when you're hauling buns thru traffic like you do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nice thing about a single speed is that there aren't a lot of other places to put the money if you already have a sound frame. You'll need a new front wheel so you can get the rotor mounted but wheels are where a lot of folks focus their money in single/fixed categories. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course the saddle, your butt is worth every penny. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19346" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T22:41:51.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30355" CreationDate="2015-05-04T22:54:05.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chainring bolts do need to be checked/tightened at regular intervals, it's a part of the maintenance.&#xA;It it quite possible that they loosened in that 500 miles time and worked their way out; it's surprising that it wasn't more noticeable before it came undone. &#xA;Some of the early indicators of loose chainring bolts include creaking and a rattle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tighten them at home with the proper hex wrench and don't be afraid to strong arm it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19346" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T22:54:05.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30359" CreationDate="2015-05-05T05:49:20.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;We cannot know exactly unless Dowsett's team releases it, but we can make a reasonable estimate. The most important unknown is Dowsett's drag area, or CdA, so below I have calculated the power needed to average 52.937 km/h for various values of CdA, given the assumptions noted on the figure. Notably, rho is air density in the velodrome and a trackside observer provided the estimate of 1.16 kg/m^3; Dowsett is listed as 75 kg for his &quot;official&quot; weight so 85 kg is an estimate of the rider plus bike plus shoes plus helmet plus suit; eta is drive train efficiency and for fixed gear bikes with a good chainline losses tend to be around 2.5%; and the coefficient of rolling resistance for track tires on a smooth wooden velodrome surface will be in the range of .0025 to .003. Thus, if Dowsett's drag area were around 0.195 m^2, his average power would have had to have been about 400 watts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OAKP.png&quot; alt=&quot;estimated power for CdA for Dowsett&amp;#39;s hour record&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T00:09:20.480" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T00:09:20.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-05T09:28:58.263" Score="6" ViewCount="446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have less than 10 hours on SPD pedals. Unclipping is becoming more and more intuitive (I no longer fall to the side when stopping at a traffic light). While it still intimidates me to jump with clips, cornering needs to be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I approach a corner, regardless if on asphalt or on the trail, I look into the exit, rotate my head, chest and hips towards the exit, stay centered on the bike, but tilt the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is that by rotating my hips I will accidentally unclip, dropping my foot to the ground in the most dangerous part of the turn. Do I need to worry about this, and if so, how to prevent it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: My pedals are mixed SPD/plaform pedals and the shoes are Cube AM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T15:08:57.530" Title="How to prevent accidental unclipping while cornering?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;spd&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30375" CreationDate="2015-05-05T12:07:51.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes if you have excess length at the hub end you can use that.  Just loosen the clamp on the hub and pull some slack.  Then you will need to reclamp at the hub and adjust.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cable is just plain to short then you will need to get a new cable.  Just take the existing to your LBS so they can match the end.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T12:07:51.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30368" CreationDate="2015-05-05T12:21:07.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not take much torque to snug up the seat post.  With a long lever yes you could damage the frame.  Cross one finger over the Allen key so you have a short lever and snug it up.  See if you can twist the seat.  If so snug each up another 1/4 turn and test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T12:21:07.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30381" CreationDate="2015-05-05T15:08:57.530" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about things that haven't happened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people new to clipless are worried about the exact opposite. &quot;Will I be able to unclip if things go south in a turn?&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually you will get to the point where clipping in/out is completely unconscious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, if unclipping when you don't want to really becomes a problem, look into getting a setup with more &quot;float&quot;. Float is the angle at which the cleat releases. &#xA;SPD cleats come in different versions with different float. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get pedal with more float that standard SPD's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T15:08:57.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-05T15:47:39.837" Score="1" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Battaglin road bike from 1997 that I want to convert to a single speed. My issue is; what conversion kit to buy? The rear hub spline (not sure this is the correct term) has a 4x4 millimeter. I bought a kit on ebay, turns out it doesn't fit and I am guessing it's because the campagnolo free hub uses different dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is the item I bought on ebay &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Speed-Conversion-and-Cogs-16T-and-18T-8-9-and-10-Speed-Freehub-Body-SS-/251897565819?nma=true&amp;amp;si=3cfysRTM4ElBxkenIFNdiTV97UE%253D&amp;amp;orig_cvip=true&amp;amp;rt=nc&amp;amp;_trksid=p2047675.l2557&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Speed-Conversion-and-Cogs-16T-and-18T-8-9-and-10-Speed-Freehub-Body-SS-/251897565819?nma=true&amp;amp;si=3cfysRTM4ElBxkenIFNdiTV97UE%253D&amp;amp;orig_cvip=true&amp;amp;rt=nc&amp;amp;_trksid=p2047675.l2557&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13489" LastEditorUserId="13489" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T17:37:40.250" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T17:37:40.250" Title="Single speed conversion kit" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30311" CreationDate="2015-05-05T22:10:50.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commuted often on this trail for awhile and loved it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the trail is free of vehicle traffic and has bridges going over roads. It's a heavily shaded trail that can provide a nice respite from the sun during the hot summer. Potholes are minimal, though minor cracks from tree roots are not uncommon. Also, there can be quite a bit of debris on the trail after a good wind storm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not too far out of the city the path has a wooden ramp, in good condition, that last about 50 yards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the commuting hours, foot traffic exists, but I remember going at a pretty good rate with no issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple poorly lit tunnels, so you will want a bike light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T22:10:50.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30390" CreationDate="2015-05-05T22:48:06.803" Score="0" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some very similar forks to this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GFukv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I want to know if I can use v brakes with them. It looks like there is a thread to screw in some bosses, but I'm not 100% sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T23:51:43.707" Title="Can I fit v brakes on 2003 Marzocchi MX Pro Suspension Forks" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30389" CreationDate="2015-05-05T23:51:43.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can, but you need adaptors such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XMarzocchi+V-Brake+Stud+Boss+%2F+Sleeve+Kit.TRS0&amp;amp;_nkw=Marzocchi+V-Brake+Stud+Boss+%2F+Sleeve+Kit&amp;amp;_sacat=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: To the best of my knowledge, all Marzocchi v brake adaptors are the same, but you might want to ask the eBay vendor just to be on the safe side :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T23:51:43.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30392" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-06T02:32:25.207" Score="5" ViewCount="20318" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are planning a trip with a bike rack attached to our trailer hitch. What is the best way to lock the bikes while the vehicle is unattended? I see some racks have locks on the knobs but they don't seem very strong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19364" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T06:02:16.293" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T10:13:16.430" Title="Locking a vehicle bicycle rack" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16834" CreationDate="2015-05-06T03:22:16.153" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;All brakes work by converting kinetic energy into heat through friction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In disk brakes, the heat builds up in both the rotors and calipers.&#xA;Under heavy sustained braking, such as down a long steep hill, the calipers can get hot enough to start to boil the brake fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because gases are easily compressible, boiling brake fluid causes a loss of braking ability. This is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fade&quot;&gt;brake fade&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news. This will go away as soon as the brakes are allowed to cool down, and only happens on sustained heavy braking. 2 minutes constantly engaged is certainly a very long time to brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad new. This can only be avoided by using an individual brake less. On long downhills, switching between front and rear will allow each brake to cool in turn, and stop brake fade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the brakes do use something like DOT4 brake fluid (usually not for bicycles) the fluid will eventually wear out, and fade badly. This happens when water gets into the fluid, lowering the boiling point. Flushing the brakes with new fluid will help if the fluid has degraded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is true for all hydraulically activated brakes, on any vehicle anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19366" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T03:22:16.153" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30392" CreationDate="2015-05-06T03:53:14.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't rely on the racks locks alone to keep you bikes safe. They will&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Yu4vEsD9WA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;at very best&lt;/a&gt;, slow the thief down (shows the point).  A hitch rack provides a good lever that can be effectively used to snap the rack (or the hitch) off to take the bikes, and if the bikes are damaged in the process, the thief just walks away leaving a mess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong cable lock though a closed loop on the car (the cars tie down loop / eye)  around the bikes, threaded to limit the range of twisting and lever motions, meaning the racks locking mechanisms cannot be push further than they can cope with.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any length of time, take the bikes off the rack and store safely inside, or out of site locked to a secure rack. Cheap bikes also help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T03:53:14.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30392" CreationDate="2015-05-06T03:54:40.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you anticipate stopping in places with a real potential for bike thievery, I would lock the bikes up the same way I normally would while leaving them unattended in the city, with u-locks. No sense losing the bikes mid-trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On trips with little to no chance of such potential for theft, I'll be in proximity to the car the entire time, or I'll just be at remote campgrounds near other vacation-going folks like me, etc, a simple cable lock will suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to be in any densely populated areas, I can't stress enough about the inadequacy of a cable lock. Some $15 branch loppers will go through them like butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: make sure your hitch-mounted rack is locked to your hitch, otherwise your bike lock will be rendered useless when a thief walks away with your entire rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T03:54:40.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30404" CreationDate="2015-05-06T09:22:11.913" Score="4" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to workout whether the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/park-tool-home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs9/rp-prod5787&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;park tool PCS 9 workstand&lt;/a&gt; would fit in my bath tub (it's the only place I can clean my bike). To do so I need to know how big the footprint of the stand is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone measure theirs for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approximately it's the distances in this image along the red lines...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G4WbG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T22:57:26.067" Title="&quot;Footprint&quot; of the Park Tool PCS 9 stand" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;repair-stand&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30401" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-06T09:25:36.827" Score="2" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized Phenom on my mtb that is very comfy and a Specialized saddle (standard one from an Allez) that I use on my commuter bike which is also comfy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Selle Italia saddle that came on my Cube road bike is not and I'm looking to replace it. Can I assume that all Specialized saddles are modelled around the same shape and will fit the same (for a given size/sit-bone width) and that if I have one the right shape, others will also be or is it a case of taking every model in its own right? Will be a while before I can get time to go to the LBS to try seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know it's not really what this site is for but does anyone have experience with Specialized Toupe saddles? Worth trying?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastEditorUserId="6726" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T15:06:09.980" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T15:06:09.980" Title="How similar are saddles made by the same company?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30400" CreationDate="2015-05-06T13:33:17.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, these are all &quot;back of the envelope&quot; estimates... The actual measurements will vary but it will give you an idea. You should maybe send an email to Park or stop by your LBS if they carry these stands confirm the measurements and check my math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assumption 1- Leg Length&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the park tool site link it says that the whole stand folds to 41&quot;. If you watch the video you see that when folded the head and mount stick up above the legs. It's likely more than 5 inches, but I estimated that if you account for that excess the legs are about 36&quot; long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assumption 2 - Right Angles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My next assumption is that the legs open at a 90-degree angle. Then we can do some high school math. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do the Math!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both legs are 36&quot; and the angle is 90-degrees, then then length of &quot;b&quot; in you diagram can be figured with the Pythagorean Theorem, 36^2 + 36^2 = b^2. My math tells me that &quot;b&quot; equals roughly 51&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put the pointy end against one side of the tub and legs against the other side, you then create the smaller triangles formed by the legs, the vertex &quot;a&quot; and 1/2 of &quot;b&quot;. Again, using the same formula you have 36^2 + a^2 = 25.5^2. That equals roughly 26&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, based on those assumptions (right angles and 36&quot; legs), if your tub is wider at the interior base than 26&quot; (66 cm) then the stand should fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit:&lt;/em&gt; If the length of the legs is about 25&quot; as indicated in a comment that has since been deleted, then the length of &quot;a&quot; in your diagram is about 17.5&quot; (44.5 cm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T14:30:00.367" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T14:30:00.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30401" CreationDate="2015-05-06T15:05:16.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing that you might be able to bank on is the width of the saddle.  I know specialized in particular has different widths for the same model of saddle based on where you sit bones are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, you will really need to try each saddle to know how it's going to feel.  I have the Toupe on my road bike and it's fine for a road bike but I wouldn't want it on my MTB.  It doesn't have as much padding as the specialized MTB saddles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short Answer: You have to take each model into consideration individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18992" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T15:05:16.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30400" CreationDate="2015-05-06T15:39:00.173" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Park Tool support site, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs-9&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Base when open forms a triangle of 36” (92 cm) x  36” (92 cm)x 45”&#xA;  (115 cm)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T15:39:00.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-06T16:36:26.773" Score="3" ViewCount="851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a trekking bike (similar to this one : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hervis.at/products/product?code=BASE:1842986&amp;amp;referer=at-bike-cross&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hervis.at/products/product?code=BASE:1842986&amp;amp;referer=at-bike-cross&lt;/a&gt; )  and I plan to join some triathlon events in the future. I try to do some long runs (sorry if that is not that long for you) around 70-80 km, but I cannot be faster than 21 km/h. I see the others with road bikes are much quicker than me(but I don't know whether this is because of me or the bike). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first point is that I dont want to spend money now and I am really undecided whether this is a good strategy to train for later. Do you think there is room for big speed improvement with the road bikes? Is it similar to train with the trekking bike and then change it or does it change the style a lot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19236" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T12:06:13.933" Title="I have a trekking bike. Should I buy a road bike to train for a race?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30412" CreationDate="2015-05-06T17:24:32.390" Score="8" ViewCount="7751" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a race quality carbon wheel set stay true longer than an aluminum one (with equal abuse/mileage) ?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the properties of carbon would resist flat spots and warping better than aluminum.  Is this the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is carbon easier to true than aluminum?  Aluminum can get bent badly and be rendered useless; does this happen with carbon or does it just crack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T12:14:11.773" Title="Do Carbon Wheels Stay True Longer Than Aluminum Wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30327" CreationDate="2015-05-06T18:12:49.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Garmin has offered &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2010/11/how-calorie-measurement-works-on-garmin.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;several different algorithms over the years to estimate energy expenditure&lt;/a&gt; and some are better than others.  However, the only way to get really reliable calorie burn data from a bike computer is with a direct-force power meter, and -- in my experience, at least -- most simple algorithms to estimate calorie burn will overestimate the calories you've expended by 50% or more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike many other endurance sports (running, swimming, cross-country skiing), &lt;a href=&quot;http://d3epuodzu3wuis.cloudfront.net/R060.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;most people's efficiency while cycling falls into an extremely narrow range&lt;/a&gt;.  I've seen elsewhere that the range is typically between 20-25%, meaning that 75-80% of the energy you expend while cycling is not applied to the pedals and the remainder is.  Since there are 4 kJ per dietary calorie, the metabolic cost to you of applying 500 kJ of energy to your bike's drivetrain (i.e., averaging just under 280 W for 30 minutes) is thus likely to be somewhere between 500 and 625 kCal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the Edge 200 won't record power data even if you have a power meter.  If you want a better approximation of your energy expenditure, you might consider looking at something like Strava's estimated power instead.  This estimate still doesn't account for drafting and winds, but it uses grade, acceleration, your weight, and the weight of your equipment and is thus more accurate than estimates based on speed and athlete weight alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19376" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T18:12:49.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6727" CreationDate="2015-05-06T18:52:23.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Insecurity and attitude. As witnessed in answers to this question, the very presence of a compact crank leads to lectures about how pro racers can ever use regular crank and ranting about how regular crank users &quot;serpentine their way up high grade mountain roads because they thought they could push standard gearing but can't.&quot; This gets old pretty fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T18:52:23.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-06T20:26:00.810" Score="0" ViewCount="810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Norco Threshold cyclocross bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.norco.com/bikes/road/cyclocross/threshold-carbon/threshold-sl-ultegra/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.norco.com/bikes/road/cyclocross/threshold-carbon/threshold-sl-ultegra/&lt;/a&gt;)&#xA;. It has a PF30 bottom bracket and an FSA Energy Cross PF30 46/36T crank.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BB is making a lot of clicking and creaking noises, and if this cannot be fixed, I am thinking about replacing the bottom bracket with a &lt;strong&gt;Praxis Conversion BB&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.praxiscycles.com/conversion-bb/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.praxiscycles.com/conversion-bb/&lt;/a&gt;). That BB is designed to replace a PF30 BB. It is supposed to work with &quot;Shimano™ Hollowtech II steel spindle road cranks only&quot;.  Praxis also offers variants of the same Conversion BB for Shimano Mountain, SRAM road/mountain, Campagnolo. I assume I can ignore the Campagnolo variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I am trying to figure out if it will work with my existing FSA Energy Cross crank&lt;/strong&gt;. I am unable to tell what the difference is between various types of cranks. A lot of websites talk about &quot;24mm standard&quot; but I have no idea what that means. Is it the same as Shimano Hollowtech 2 ?  What characteristics must be the same for two cranks to be compatible ? Diameter, Length, something else ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the crank: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/cranksets-cyclocross/energy-cyclocross-crankset-4636-bb30/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/cranksets-cyclocross/energy-cyclocross-crankset-4636-bb30/&lt;/a&gt;  On the page, it says &quot;BB30&quot;, but it also has a &quot;PF30&quot; logo. Does that mean it works with both types of bottom brackets ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T13:02:25.983" Title="Help me understand bottom brackets and cranks" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30408" CreationDate="2015-05-06T20:31:38.830" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I give you the following, that you can read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.i-mtb.com/carbon-wheels-experiences-and-tests/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Talking to Jason Marsh the mechanic of Greg Minaar 2012 DH World Cup&#xA;  Champion about ENVE DH rims (which are carbon), he said that, ”Once&#xA;  you have built them, you don’t need to do anything, the spokes remain&#xA;  tight and they don’t need truing and we use a lot less through the&#xA;  year as they are stronger…”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The user in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/long-term-durability-reports-carbon-rims-653673.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt; reports long carbon wheel use with no need for truing, and DTSwiss also recommends the same maintenance interval for carbon and aluminium rims regarding checking if the wheels are true, which is an hint to them being similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem with carbon, and this is also true for carbon components in general, is that despite being stronger than aluminium it is also more rigid, which means they don't respond as well to sharp impacts. Think of it as a steel vs an aluminium nail: the first one bends easily but holds the structure, while the steel one is very tough but breaks all of a sudden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also said in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mpora.com/videos/AAdxss5mlg8p#SWSiQceJSEzJlVG1.97&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; interview with a pro bike mechanic, that says carbon wheels are faster because you can maintain your direction better (more rigid), but have overall less durable because in an accident or impact they are more likely to require substitution. He even says that it is normal for costumers to try both types and prefer aluminum due to their compliancy and comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting back to your question, I would say that due to the compliancy and flexibility of aluminium they hold dents and impacts better, as these are just killers for carbon rims. As the mechanic in the interview says, to which I agree, Carbon wheels are an expensive luxury. I personally would easily buy carbon components for my bike with the exception of the wheels, as these components in particular are very likely to have to sustain high impacts due to low tyre pressure, trying to go up a sidewalk or a bad measured bunny hop. We have all been there :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: You guys are right, I just threw it here :( I will try to improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastEditorUserId="19084" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T03:19:26.030" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T03:19:26.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30440" CreationDate="2015-05-06T21:02:42.217" Score="1" ViewCount="5726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://abvio.com/cyclemeter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cyclemeter&lt;/a&gt; to track rides on my iPhone 6, then when the ride is over, I send the info to &lt;a href=&quot;http://strava.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt;. When I look at the ride in Strava the calculated Calories burned for a 17 mile 90 minute ride is ~500 while Cyclemeter says ~1100 (My weight is 225lb). I do not have a heart rate or cadence monitor, so the only info being used is the GPS (distance and elevation data) and barometer(I assume) and then my weight. What factors could account for such a big difference? Do the 2 services use vastly different data from maps? Which one should I trust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3589" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T08:10:52.903" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T23:19:20.573" Title="Calorie burn information is dramatically different between Strava IOS App and Cyclemeter IOS app. Which is more accurate?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;strava&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30413" CreationDate="2015-05-06T21:29:57.870" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RANT - Do not read if you do not want to be offended.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of calorie burn questions popping up at the moment. The problem is biometrics has become the latest fashion accessory, and everyone (manufacturers and users) are clambering on the band wagon without stopping to think what they want this data for. Manufacturers want to sell gadgets and make money, users are buying into the marketing hype. Ask yourself why do you want to know how many calories you burnt exercising? So you can justify the cream doughnut you are about to stuff in your mouth, or because you are an ultra endurance athlete struggling to main high enough calorie intake, or something in the middle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RANT OVER&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calorie burn can only be accurately assessed in a lab by measuring your O2 intake and output and calculating how much O2 you burnt. A very close approximation is a power meter, especially if used in conjunction with the results from a lab test. The reality is we are all born different, and just like car engines, some of us are more efficient than others, some idle less efficiently (Basal rate) and some  produce power more efficiently. To cap it off, how efficient we are depends on the food (car analogy - fuel) you put in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A usable, but not great approximation for calorie burn can be achieved by using a heart rate monitor, your weight and height, and the results from max heart rate test ideally including a V02Max test, and tables collated by measuring lots of people of different shapes and sizes and presuming you are average (Keeping in mind the average person is not average).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this complexity exceeds the capacity of Marketing people to comprehend, they simplify it to a point its useless. If you buy a device and it claims to tell you how many calories you burnt, you can believe it - but if you continue to believe after a few minutes of research, I bet you also believe the earth is flat and man never landed on the moon. If you don't believe me, ask yourself how the above apps account for wind in their calorie burn calculation. Do they ask for you bike weight for hill climb calculations? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the equipment is useful (if you are a bore at parties) - if gives you  a number you can brag about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T21:29:57.870" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7610" CreationDate="2015-05-06T21:35:45.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use to run a Stan's BST rim with non-tubeless ready Maxxis High Roller 2 exo tire.  They went tubeless easily worked great for almost all my biking, but if I jumped/ dropped over 4 ft my rear tire would blow off at the bead.  I weigh right around 200 and run about 30 psi.  I bought the non-tubeless ready tires because Stan's say you can use practically any tire, but after my experience I personally will never run anything other than a tubeless ready tire.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19379" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T21:35:45.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30400" CreationDate="2015-05-06T22:57:26.067" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I measured my PCS9 at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) 70 cm (27.5&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b) 115 cm (45&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T22:57:26.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30419" CreationDate="2015-05-07T00:59:26.877" Score="1" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most similar questions are asking about using the same chain with a bigger cluster with more gears (10 speed chain vs 11 speed cluster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is being able to simply buy a higher gear ratio cassette and still keep the same chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have Shimano Ultegra 10 speed system, but my cassette is an 11-24 cluster. I want to replace it with another 10 speed cassette but 12 to 32, with grannies for massive hill climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely I don't need to replace the chain if the number of gears on the cassette is the same - ie: 10 speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T12:51:22.467" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T12:51:22.467" Title="Do I need to replace 10 speed chain if using a bigger cluster, also 10 speed?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36351" CreationDate="2015-05-07T01:03:07.067" Score="3" ViewCount="1087" Body="&lt;p&gt;My carbon frame has some slight scratches and some black gunk around the seat stays. What is the best way to polish the frame to bring it back to its original appearance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using a solvent to remove the black scuff marks and a 1200 wet-n-dry emory paper with water to gently polish the duco back, finishing it with a gentle buff and polish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone here reckons the car polishing products are just as good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on this please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: Yes I have tried the damp cloth trick already. No good once it dries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13462" LastEditorUserId="13462" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T04:55:14.153" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T10:27:57.133" Title="How to polish carbon frames?" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30417" CreationDate="2015-05-07T01:24:44.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on how long your chain is currently. Also it depends on if your rear derailleur is a short or mid cage. I would say that a jump up from 24 to 32 is a bit to big for any chain. Of course without seeing how much slack is in your chain right now the right answer will vary. You certainly can put the new cassette on and you will know right away if it work or not. Be warned that you ABSOLUTELY do NOT want to add any more links to your used chain. This is a great resource for drivetrains in general: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19382" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T01:24:44.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30540" CreationDate="2015-05-07T05:44:55.140" Score="1" ViewCount="883" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of buying a new mountain bike, but I'm unfamiliar with mountain bikes. That's why I need to be well aware of the pressure a mountain bike can handle. How much pressure can mountain bike tires take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21171" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T21:22:40.693" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T18:20:41.470" Title="How much pressure can mountain bike tires take?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T06:06:29.553" Score="5" ViewCount="2450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for practical advice on compatibility between various Shimano hydraulic disc brakes, especially the lever assembly. Currently I have two separate sets, one M446 Left lever, attached to a short hose and a caliper (front brake) and one M395 Right lever with a long hose (rear brake). I would like to have the right hand brake to be the front brake. Can I simply disconnect the brake hose and swap the levers? Do I need new 'Olives'(line inserts)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some Shimano disc brakes use a Banjo bolt connection, but this is not the case for my brakes. Some sites claim that all Shimano hydraulic parts are interchangeable. Others claim that there are very small differences in the brake hose diameter for newer brakes. Is there anyone who has made such a setup work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T11:51:32.693" Title="Shimano Hydraulic disc brakes- Lever compatibility" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30435" CreationDate="2015-05-07T07:54:24.310" Score="0" ViewCount="2133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting some knee / shin protection for mountain biking but I'm aware that it might restrict my leg movement and make my legs hot if I get the wrong ones for the job (mostly XC riding). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kinds of protection is available for XC mountain biking with the potential of falling onto   rocky trails at relatively low speeds (but still enough to be injured).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T20:55:42.527" Title="Which knee / shin pads for XC mountain bike riding?" Tags="&lt;protection&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T13:23:49.850" Score="0" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a pre 1970s 10 speed Claud Butler. Perhaps back then men were real men but there is no climbing gear. Since I mostly do touring this is a bit of a problem. Finding a new freewheel gear set with a climbing gear has been tricky due to their rarity in shops. One suggestion from a salesman was to change out the old freewheel gear set to a newer cassette freehub gear set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When changing to Shimano's new cassette freehub (which from what I gathered from the jargon in the shop I visited was the new standard) I know that the wheel will need replacing (&lt;em&gt;right?&lt;/em&gt;). That isn't perhaps so much of a concern since I am missing a spoke and should perhaps replace that regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am concerned that this upgrade might spiral out of control in terms of labour and cost. What factors about the upgrade do I need to consider to minimise the amount of other components that I need to change? For example, in a typical upgrade like this would I also be expected to buy a suitable new rear derailleur and chain? Will the swap affect my chain ring and front derailleur? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, &lt;strong&gt;is it possible to buy components that will be reasonably compatible with my old components, and how do I identify compatible components?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13414" LastEditorUserId="13414" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T17:23:50.537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T17:57:03.477" Title="What other parts might need replacing if I replace an old freewheel gear set for a modern freehub cassette?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T13:47:42.583" Score="1" ViewCount="14925" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a &quot;Schwinn Women's Clear Creek 28&quot;/700c Hybrid Bike&quot;, and it turns out I'm uncomfortable with the wheel size. I couldn't figure out why I'm so unstable on it. Even though I haven't ridden a bike in 10 years or so I should have been able to pick it up right away. Well, I found out that the bike I rode from the time I was 10 until I was in my early 20's had 24&quot; wheels. It was also a mountain bike. This new bike is a hybrid bike and has 28&quot; wheels. With my old bike I was comfortable and in control when my seat was higher than the handlebars and I was still able to touch the ground. With these 28&quot; wheels, my seat is up as far as I can go with my feet still able to touch the ground and I don't have enough height over my handlebars to feel stable (and I'm 5'11&quot;). Does anyone know if it's possible to change out these wheels for 24&quot;? Or is that size only for kid's bikes or mountain bikes? What about 26&quot;? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19388" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T21:23:49.323" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T21:23:49.323" Title="Can I change my 28&quot; wheels for 24&quot;?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14895" CreationDate="2015-05-07T14:15:39.860" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember Robert Wright’s wheelbuilding guide thinking about a rope over your shoulder pulling a load is easier than facing the load and pulling with your hands. Ie: the hub flange becomes the shoulder and provides another contact point to better direct drive force to the wheel. Big Jim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19389" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T14:15:39.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30428" CreationDate="2015-05-07T15:33:03.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing the wheels will not change how you sit on the bike or the &quot;fit&quot;.  This bike uses rim brakes and a smaller wheel will force you to modify them heavily if it all possible.  You can't wing this one and doing it right is way more expensive than this or a proper fitting bike is worth.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hybrid bikes are made to be more for a upright seating position.  That is why you can't really get your seat higher than your handlebars.  They also tend to put the handle bars closer to the seat making for a shorter reach.  The wheel base may be shorter as well which makes them more twitchy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea that you shouldn't be able to reach the ground seated is because while seated, your leg should almost fully extend on the down stroke.  This saves your joints while being more comfortable and efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had to commute on my wife's hybrid bike while my mountain bike was in the shop for a few days, and yes, it is more twitchy so it is something that you have to get used to or find a bike that fits you better.  700C wheels also has some advantages over 24 inch that you are already enjoying but don't know it yet, but would notice on a downsize. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T15:33:03.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30411" CreationDate="2015-05-07T16:09:40.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;24mm refers to the diameter of your spindle (the rod connecting the two cranks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can look for more details on this chart:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/images/sizing/FSA___RD_CRANKSET_STANDARD_18x24_20140306_reduced_size.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/images/sizing/FSA___RD_CRANKSET_STANDARD_18x24_20140306_reduced_size.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this works for you :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T16:09:40.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30413" CreationDate="2015-05-07T16:24:06.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some apps will use the GPS altitude information - and the errors on that can be quite large at ground level with clutter (basically all the satellites you can see are above you which doesn't help).  Here's an example: Until a few days ago I was using cardiotrainer and the last 3 times I ran the same 10km loop I got 59m, 22m and 0m total climb.  I'm confident this just gets altitude from the GPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other apps/services will have access to terrain mapping which will pick up a different set of altitude changes (maybe more, maybe less depending on the dataset).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some won't use any altitude data at all but I would assume that Strava does and that's your lower figure so unless you're riding downhill all the way we can assume that cyclemeter does too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you get in to how they smooth the track data in the horizontal (more noticeable running, but you get cheated on tight turns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big difference will come from what it assumes about drag (and your own efficiency but lets stick to the mechanical stuff for now).  If 1 app is calibrated for a road racer, tucked right down, lycra, 23mm rock-hard tyres and smooth tarmac it will assume vastly less power than an app assuming a city bike with wide tyres, some tread,an upright posture and a scarf trailing behind.  Let's take a guess and assume that Strava likes road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What assumptions do they make on the downhills?  We don't know, but you might or might be pedalling hard or resting, and the speed alone is insufficient to know which given the other variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we assume (erroneously) that the apps I've used in the past are spot on, then with me being a little lighter than you the truth lies somewhere in between, probably closer to the higher figure (I was getting just under 500cals for 10 miles with some hills in 40-45 minutes, across a few apps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what use is it? Well, it lets you compare routes (do you want a workout or an efficient commute, are you trying to train and explore the area at the same time).  If you're training seriously your efficiency and your basal metabolic rate will be affected, and both need a lab to measure them (therefore values are assumed in the apps, another source of difference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could if you wanted (and I've done this so I know the data is out there) take your speed profile and plug it into an equation for the required power (most sources are for road racers but there are different drag coefficients out there).  Then you'd need to use simple physics on your total climb to work out how much work you did, convert this to calories &lt;em&gt;and take into account human efficiency, values for which vary hugely&lt;/em&gt;.  This would be a laborious way to pick which app you're going to trust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T16:24:06.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30427" CreationDate="2015-05-07T17:57:03.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably have the right drop out width.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unless it has down tube shifters you have cable routing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The chain size must match (e.g. cassette number of gears) and chain ring width.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your existing chain rings are probably too wide.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But I think you would be better off finding a newer used bike with the stuff you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you stay with the same number of gears and get different gearing (number of teeth) you can get better climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T17:57:03.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30423" CreationDate="2015-05-07T20:55:42.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Slovakov said, these kind of protections are never seen in XC, the main reason being that XC is a low risk activity. You usually go at slower paces and you never put yourself in situations where there is a likely chance you can loose control and have a high speed crash in a dangerous zone (as you do in downhill or freeride, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can fall and hurt yourself, but you can fall and hurt yourself if you are trail running, you can twist an ankle if you are playing basketball, or hurt a tendon weightlifting. You have to understand physical activity isn't without a certain degree of risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason why helmets are highly recommended is because, even in the unlikely event of having a crash, an impact in your skull can have huge consequences for yourself - much more than any other part of your body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are concerned with your safety, it is my belief training yourself and learning to ride a bike in a technical situation is a very valuable skill. Lower your saddle, move your ass right to the back, learn to control and feel your brakes, etc. Start with easy areas and progressively advance to places which are more rocky and have more inclination. Being comfortable around these situation plays a big part in your safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, if you still want knee protection, the most lightweight I know of are POC VDP Air Knee and Elbow Pads, Dainese Trail Skins or Race Face Charge Leg Guards. Six Six One also makes pads with various densities. You will easily find all of these with a Google search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun and safe riding :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T20:55:42.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30428" CreationDate="2015-05-07T21:06:26.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the rims brakes your bicycle use I would say there is no way you can change the wheel to a smaller diameter. But that is not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say last time you rode a bike was more than 10 years ago, and it was a different type of bike. It makes sense that you find it hard on this new bike, because more than it being different, you haven't been doing it for a while. I ride bikes on a daily basis and if I change my bike to a friends it takes me some time to adapt to the new bike. This is normal, and is more true as different the bike is (for example, road bike to mountain bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a chance you have bought a bike which is bigger than it should be (bikes have sizes), but this should also not be a big problem. If you give me your height and your frame size I can help you though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would however say there is nothing wrong and you bought an excellent bike, you just need to train a little bit. Lower your saddle to a comfortable position, and spend an afternoon training in a big, traffic free area. You will see you will re-learn your skills and be comfortable in no time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy riding and remember, don't forget you helmet :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T21:06:26.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21717" CreationDate="2015-05-07T21:43:01.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm going on longer bicycle ride, I simply put my Vivofit around ankle and secure it with sock. I know that it inst accurate, but at least it record some &quot;steps&quot; :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19393" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T21:43:01.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1504" CreationDate="2015-05-07T23:34:35.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My one and only reason: Fixed / Brakeless (wearing flip-flops)&#xA;Hence the best answer to the OP's question of why PEDAL STRAPS - (not why cages / clips are better/not better....sheesh)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To elaborate: &#xA;My toesies get crunched in the cage and there aint no clips on the bottom of my slaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*btw, I love the &quot;pull up pedal&quot; answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19395" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T23:34:35.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T23:37:48.730" Score="2" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7lief.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a new rack on this bike. The rack says it can hold up to 25 kg which is about 50 pounds. Can I use this rack to grab it and carry it while it is folded? The bike is about 35 pounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or this way (holding the crank?)? In this position, it rests on the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M7cLr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQCte.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="5518" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T01:03:47.033" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T16:44:16.083" Title="Can I carry my folding bike by using the rack as a handle?" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30413" CreationDate="2015-05-08T00:15:24.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mattnz alluded to it can be notoriously difficult to estimate calories burned, even with a heart rate monitor. As a bit of history, for the longest time it was generally believed that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/490909-the-accuracy-of-calories-burned-in-polar-heart-rate-monitors/&quot;&gt;Polar heart rate monitors were the most accurate&lt;/a&gt;, because Polar essentially purchased the rights to the best proprietary algorithm available (going by memory, I will need to find the reference for that statement). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The take home is that even if you have a high quality heart rate monitor you may still not be getting an accurate estimate of actual calories burnt as it can vary brand to brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a heart rate monitor (as you are doing now) you should see even less accuracy.  That said, of the two I would hazard an educated guess that Strava would be more accurate due to the depth of data they have at their finger tips.  Now none of us know what analyses they are doing behind the scenes, but if they are leveraging any of that immense data archive, they should be able to provide better estimates, assuming they have a high quality statistician working (or consulting with) the company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hmm... I should submit a cv...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T00:15:24.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29393" CreationDate="2015-05-08T00:26:15.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible. For 250W motor, without any limit, I can go 20 kph on a 8% grade hill. But that will burn your battery and motor, so please be careful about the discharging current limit if you are planning to DIY deep into the software/hardware. Most Chinese brand can be reprogrammed easily with a usb cable to the controller.&#xA;On flat, I can go 36kph, which is 8 kph less than the rated speed of the unloaded motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most 250W motor can withstand 350W for a short time, but mind you, while going uphill in warm weather (~24oC), it can burn your motor easily if you do not assist the motor and let it run at ridiculously low RPM (less than 10 kph is bad for motor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battery: DO NOT go backwards to Lead-Acid Battery. It has ridiculously long charging time, shorter cycle life, and 4xheavier than LiPO4 (2.5 kg as opposed to 10kg, and you do not want 10kg of Lead and Acid with you around). So again, NEVER think about using LeadAcid battery for your sake. The money you save does not worth the hassle you have to go through, even if you are broke and homeless...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motor: consider gear Hub motor, as they are lighter. You have cantilever brake and that's another reason to get your bike as light as possible. You can get a good Geared hub motor for £250 which weighs 2.1-2.4 kg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Controller and Wiring: get some waterproof wiring/plugs and controller so that you do not have to worry about cycling in the rain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S In all honesty, I would sell the carbon fork to get better components for e-bike, then buy a cheap alloy fork (maybe 300g heavier, but with better e-bike components, you can save 2-3 kg of weight in the end)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T15:20:46.753" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T15:20:46.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30461" CreationDate="2015-05-08T00:26:20.120" Score="3" ViewCount="756" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I take a shopping cart like say &lt;a href=&quot;https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F41gwtEBLurL._SL160_.jpg&amp;amp;f=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; and safely attach it to a bike? I'd like to also take it into the store with me as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uyl3q.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uyl3q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T02:46:03.430" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T05:47:03.893" Title="Grocery Shopping by bike, expanding my cargo options cheaply" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27377" CreationDate="2015-05-08T00:35:47.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your bike &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/assets.scott-sports.com/manuals/09bike/2009_manual_u_spark_gb_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Piston stroke: 37mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shock (Eye to Eye): 165mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T00:35:47.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30368" CreationDate="2015-05-08T00:51:24.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pedalon.co.uk/acatalog/Vector.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt;, they state the torque for the Giant Defy seatpost should be around 50kgf-cm (5Nm). I know this is for the carbon frame, but they should be similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;amp;field-keywords=torque%20wrench&amp;amp;rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Atorque%20wrench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;torque wrench&lt;/a&gt; for around $30, which you should, because otherwise there is a high chance you will under or over tight it. I know $30 is a pain in the ass, but think this will keep your $1000 bike running smoothly for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T00:51:24.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-08T01:34:54.037" Score="0" ViewCount="199" Body="&lt;p&gt;This season only started getting a lot of flats in my back tire (riding the same Trek 4300 mountain bike for past 6 years and never had this issue). In last 7 days had 3 flats - put new tube yesterday and had a flat today again! Using Lyzene pump to inflate to 40 psi. Inspected the tire and there is no evidence of any protrusions. The puncture in the tube is on the inside - a tiny slit. Inspected the rim as well and no evident sharps there - I have a double wall back wheel.Thinking maybe the tire (original since new) is worn out and is causing this problem.&#xA;Appreciate feedback.&#xA;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19397" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T01:34:54.037" Title="Repeated rear flat on a Trek 4300 started this season only!" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31111" CreationDate="2015-05-08T08:55:42.593" Score="8" ViewCount="1980" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I read a question about heat induced brake fade in hydraulic disc brakes caused by too much braking on long, steep descents, which is something I have also experienced when cycling in the alps. (A quite unpleasant experience, I might add.)&#xA;This made me wonder if mechanical disc brakes would suffer from the same problem. There is no fluid to start boiling, so at first thought they should be heat-fade-proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, I think an optimized disc brake system would have hydraulic activation of a short mechanical lever or wire connected to the caliper itself. &#xA;This way the system would optimize modulation (by minimizing elasticity) while still being safe to brake for extended periods.&#xA;I realize that even with mechanical brakes, you can't brake indefinitely, as the pads, calipers and discs would overheat at some point, but if the margin is large enough to cover most practical uses, the idea might be worth exploring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd like to hear from people with mechanical disc brakes if they have experienced heat induced fade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5687" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T12:07:29.367" Title="Do mechanical disc brakes suffer from heat-induced fade?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30452" CreationDate="2015-05-08T09:15:09.617" Score="8" ViewCount="6672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read everything at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/827/7309&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;What should I look for in clipless pedals and shoes?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and I'm still not sure I can have what I want.  I mainly use the bike for commuting (which will be bike-train-walk) and running errands, including with a baby seat when I don't want to be clipped in.  So I'm looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to ride in normal shoes as well as cycling shoes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycling shoes I can walk some distance in (say a mile at a time), and sit around in on the train.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me the second point suggests the cleats should be recessed - but does this then rule out the first point? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/m424-spd-mtb-pedals-oe--ec050914&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano M424s&lt;/a&gt; (cheap/beginner option) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/mt50-clickr-pedal-ec054120&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MT50&lt;/a&gt; both allow normal shoes but I can't see how they'd work with walkable clipless shoes.  Should I give up and just get some half clips and normal shoes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also looked at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/15377/7309&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;walkable clipless pedal shoe to replace normal shoe?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; but there's no definitive answer there either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T21:04:39.020" Title="Still confused about clipless, walkable shoes and dual-purpose pedals" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30450" CreationDate="2015-05-08T09:35:30.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;M424 don't really allow normal shoes. I had a set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-pd-m545-free-ride-pedals/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;M545&lt;/a&gt;s (the same but with a metal cage) and the cleat stands proud of the cage quite a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/a530-touring-pedals-oe--ec050912&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;single sided pedals&lt;/a&gt;* that will let you ride in flats on one side of the pedal and let you clip in on the other. As for shoes, something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftr/shoes/recreational-fitness-shoes/tahoe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Tahoe&lt;/a&gt;? They're supposed to be wearable as normal shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preferred solution would be to go for normal clipless pedals + shoes you can walk in as well, then not ride in normal shoes. I know you're wanting to not be clipped in but after not very long it will be completely second nature and you won't even notice you're using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I'm not sure if this is what you meant by half clips, but in case you meant toe-clips, don't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastEditorUserId="6726" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T09:53:48.017" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T09:53:48.017" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30450" CreationDate="2015-05-08T09:46:51.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of Wellgo's similar to those pedals, and two pairs of walkable shoes. One pair I had to mod by cutting back the tread around the cleats. The other pair work well with no modifications, but the cleat does touch the ground when walking. I have seen combinations that plain do not work, or worse - the shoe tread jams and you cannot rotate to get out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clip part of the pedal sticks up a little, so with soft soled shoes you can feel it, and its less than ideal for anything but short distances.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any of these its a compromise - Dedicated platform pedals have great grip, but clipless need to be able to rotate to release, so they cannot come close to performance of platforms as a dedicated platform.  Shoes for dedicated clipless pedals don't have to worry about the sole catching and can recess the cleat further than shoes designed for those pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best suggestion I can make is find the shoes you want first and match to a pedal that can be used with those and you normal shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a set of the two sides (platform one side, clips the other) pedals in my box of spare parts I tried and found they were a poor compromise that never worked well for me. Think twice before going down that path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-05-09T21:23:32.493" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T21:23:32.493" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30457" CreationDate="2015-05-08T12:37:43.707" Score="0" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a tyre that is really durable, puncture resistance, folding, lightweight and good for rocky (sometimes loose) and dry terrain. I work as a guide in Georgia (Caucasus) and my tyres wear out too quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T16:07:58.290" Title="Tyres for puncture resistance for mountain biking on rocky dry terrain (folding &amp; lightweight)" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30454" CreationDate="2015-05-08T16:07:58.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like some of the WTB tires.  Specifically the Bronson and the Weirwolf.  It's tough to find a tire that's going to do it all, but I think WTB is a good mix between weight and durability.  I also really like the traction of those two tires in a lot of varying conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say &quot;they wear out too quickly&quot; how quickly are we talking?  How many miles/rides/weeks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider, if you are riding tubeless (or willing to do the conversion) I have had really good luck with Stan's sealant to keep punctures to a minimum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, are the tires wearing out due to treadwear, punctures, sidewall tears?  Those two tires are a really good balance all around but if you have specific concerns/issues, you might get some better recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18992" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T16:07:58.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30450" CreationDate="2015-05-08T16:50:30.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For many years, I used cheap Forte pedals (Performance Bicycle house brand) with a platform on one side and SPD on the other side. This was on a mountain bike. Shimano M-324 pedals look very similar ($45 at Amazon)  I used these pedals for years for all kinds of riding, including singletrack.  The dual-sided nature of the pedals made it a bit tricky to get started in difficult spots on the trail, but it would be very easy if you're riding on the road&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3c1V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cAEiW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have Shimano M038 shoes that have a recessed SPD cleat and are very good for walking around.  The cleat doesn't touch the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cT4Ew.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBfWF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days I use a different bike with Shimano M-520 pedals, but I still use the M038 shoes for commuting occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T16:50:30.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30450" CreationDate="2015-05-08T17:47:29.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes opinion but cycling shoes I can walk some distance in (say a mile at a time) is not realistic.  Even a recessed cleat you are going wear out with mile walks.  You are going to muck them up if you walk in dirt.  And they are just not comfortable over long distances.  A walkable cleat shoe is for 100 yards or less in my book.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should try out some large platform pedals with spike and some street shoes like a Five Ten.  You get amazing good traction.  I ride a lot and only use cleats on long road rides and when I race.  I even train for CX on platform as I don't want to wear out my 200 cleats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T18:26:43.007" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T18:26:43.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30450" CreationDate="2015-05-08T18:44:09.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Shimano M424 pedals for several years in XC and Commuting, And at least for me, they result in a very good pedal to use even with non cycling shoes. I have even commuted in regular office shoes with them and they seemed comfortable enough for a 15-45 minute commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for the aim of the original question, this would be indeed my recommendation. Most of the time I'd use good walking shoes or running shoes, as they would allow for quick switching among biking and walking or running, and proper cycling shoes for training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I propose you ask yourself whether you really need cleated shoes for commuting. I have recently &quot;lost&quot; my cleat pedals and I'm kind of &quot;forced&quot; to use regular platform pedals in a bike that I use for commuting and training. While commuting I don't feel at all the need to be clipped, and while training I only feel the lack of them when I want to accelerate really hard. (My feet rolls the pedal forward).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T18:44:09.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30442" CreationDate="2015-05-08T19:10:10.153" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you would be much better off &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Convert-a-Childs-Bicycle-Trailer-into-a-Cargo-Tra/&quot;&gt;converting an old kids trailer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can be found pretty cheap on Craigslist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18992" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T19:10:10.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30442" CreationDate="2015-05-08T19:16:47.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Blams comment, I don't think you would want to pull that cart behind a bike. Since you still want to take it into the store, maybe use that cart &amp;amp; mount it on a flatbed trailer with bungee cords. Something like this maybe: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.burley.com/page_453/flatbedsuptmsup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.burley.com/page_453/flatbedsuptmsup&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T19:16:47.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30442" CreationDate="2015-05-08T19:49:01.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are trailers in a similar form factor, like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.burley.com/page_12208/travoy-bike-commute-trailer&quot;&gt;Burley Travoy&lt;/a&gt; (no recommendation, just the first I found), that are made for the purpose. These will be a lot more stable than any home made conversion of something that was never designed to go faster than slow walking pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T19:49:01.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30450" CreationDate="2015-05-08T23:28:00.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All cycle shoes that are compatible with a cleat system are going to reduce your ability to walk naturally to &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; degree. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a system with a recessed cleat (e.g., Shimano SPD or Crank Brothers) is going to create the least interference. If you also choose a shoe &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1159080_-1_400915__400915&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like these&lt;/a&gt; that allows some flexibility, you will have the easiest time walking while using a clip-less system (which, btw, is called clip-less because it's a substitute for the now old-fashioned toe clips).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Nik pointed out, you can also find SPD-compatible pedals that have a standard cage on one side, which will allow you to use a sneaker or other shoe when you don't want to clip-in and an SPD-compatbile shoe when you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run those Forte pedals on my commuter bike and they work well, but you do have to be careful to not scrape the cage on the ground when turning as they do hang down a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19404" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T23:28:00.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30466" CreationDate="2015-05-09T00:02:37.020" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are so many different kinds of shorts available for mountain biking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to get a pair that is:&#xA;durable, can have padding shorts (either insert or worn under), stretchy and flexible material, doesn't make a huge amount of noise when I pedal, lightweight, quick drying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually I would wear just lycra but having done that last season and taken a couple of falls with no protection I'm looking for something a little more protective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are so many kinds of shorts out there though how do I know what is purely fashion and what is function? and is it worth wearing anything but lycra for xc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T03:51:41.627" Title="How do I choose which kind of shorts to wear for mountain biking?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30465" CreationDate="2015-05-09T03:51:41.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear baggies for non competitive XC. Just like baggies on a road bike is a fashion crime, Lycra and MTB is a fashion crime (unless you riding at national competition level events) :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two sets of baggies - one is stretchy, light, quick drying and surprisingly durable -  think light weight running shorts with Lycra added. As they stretch, they are closer fit than many baggies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is less stretchy and heavier fabric, and baggier(Fox brand), but still not heavy and dries reasonably quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to you LBS / Sports shop and shop around. You cannot do this on the internet as you need to feel and see the fabrics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T03:51:41.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30442" CreationDate="2015-05-09T11:08:39.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many grocery stores do deliveries. There's also taxis. Living without a car and having to get groceries for my family has taught me that bicycles aren't always the best solution. About once a month plan a big trip and get a list of all the heavy, non-perishables items you will need. This will include canned goods, frozen meats and vegetables, dried goods like pasta or rice, and other non food items like laundry soap. The other stuff you need to bet fresh doesn't weigh that much. Exceptions are things like milk, but sometimes I make a special trip just for that. It's an excuse to ride my bike more, and I just go to the corner store because it's only a short trip, and it's the same price everywhere. Also, learn to shop light. Don't buy liquids like pop or juice. Water is healthier anyway and comes right out of a pipe fed into your house. If you want juice, try frozen concentrate. You'll spend money on deliveries, about $8 a shot here, but you won't have to buy a trailer, and surely your bike will appreciate not having to tow heavy loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T11:08:39.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30471" CreationDate="2015-05-10T00:06:04.133" Score="1" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking the market for my first road bike. &#xA;I am planing to be using the bike, couple times per week for 1 - 2 hour rides, and maybe on the weekend some longer ones, around UK Yorkshire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things that I would like to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there significant difference, on how one road bike will handle uneven roads compared to others? Is there a way to know that from specs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I am looking to find a balance between performance and comfort. I know for a fact I wont be racing, but will taking long leisure rides on country side. If I where to choose between happy lower back, and 5/10 minutes faster within the hour, I could choose happy lower back. Again, I am not sure if there clues on the geometry of the bike that can help me spot the difference on this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19410" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T00:40:19.577" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T15:43:29.607" Title="First Road Bike - Some Options and Issues" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30468" CreationDate="2015-05-10T03:32:30.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tires can make a significant different in terms of comfort, especially on uneven roads.  If you're comparing two different bikes, ask what is the largest tire that either one can handle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have a road bike where some 25mm tires rubbed on the front derailleur clamp (a tire labelled &quot;25mm&quot; is not always 25mm wide). With that bike I didn't have a choice - 25mm or 23mm tires was all I could use.  Those narrow tires require high pressure and are uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have a cyclocross bike that can use tires up to 40mm, and I'm currently running 35mm Schwalbe Kojak tires. It rolls as fast as any other road bike (I ride with a group, and coasting downhill behind other bikes, I can see that my bike isn't slower). But most of the impact and vibration from the road surface is absorbed by the tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some road bikes, such as the Specialized Diverge and the Norco Search, that work with tires up to 32mm (with fenders) or 35mm (without fenders).  These are sometimes called &quot;gravel bikes&quot;, intended to be rideable on gravel roads.  Obviously they also work very well on paved roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to use wide tires -- but it's good to have the choice. You can try it out and see if you like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're comparing specs, you probably want the following, based on what you stated as your goals in your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;greater tire clearance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;longer chainstays (results in tire clearance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;greater vertical distance between bottom bracket and handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T04:45:26.960" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T04:45:26.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30468" CreationDate="2015-05-10T08:05:02.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no substitute for riding a few different bikes to feel the difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get to do this, you'll need to develop a relationship with a local bike shop (LBS). A good LBS will let you take a bike for a short ride, and some will hire a bike to you for a longer ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explain what you want and what your budget is. Be up front that you're checking out your options, and you'll find your honestly repaid. Expect to pay more at an LBS than online, but that extra buys you a lot in future service, and bundled goods and services. Remember you'll need a helmet, shoes, and cycling clothes. Getting everything as a bundle will be cheaper overall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While tires can help with rough surfaces, the overall geometry helps with your general comfort. Consider if you will be comfortable with drop bars or if you want flat bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cyclo cross or touring bike may suit your purposes better than a top end race bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck, and feel free to ask specific followup questions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T08:05:02.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-10T13:04:41.493" Score="3" ViewCount="3019" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Motobécane last year (pics below), and now that the bottom bracket is broken, I really need to know the model of the bike, to help me change that piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would also be helpful if someone could redirect me to the Motobécane catalogs of the years 82, 83, I can't find them, and I suspect my bike is from this period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technical specifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;frame color: green and black (How customizable was that? I think they didn't sell the same colors each year)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;frame: tubing inexternal 707, &quot;trainer&quot; (I don't find the appropriate info about it)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;brakes: Weinmann&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;derailleur: Sachs - Huret. 12 gears&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheel: Maillard&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bottom Crank: ?? width of the shell: 74mm. From this page &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/vrbn-g-n.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/vrbn-g-n.html&lt;/a&gt;, the old french ones have special dimensions. Also on Motobécane, they are swiss type (left-threaded). I don't know if this is a cotterless one, shimano octalink, or if I can put something more standard?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[EDIT: As suggested by @Blam, I took the bottom bracket out.&#xA;First mistake: shell width doesn't correspond to the red line on the pic, but less, so width should be 68mm, I'll double check on the bike.&#xA;The Brand is Stronglight, french brand, but the threading is the normal one (left-threaded on the right side, and right-threaded on the left side).&#xA;The axle is 120mm long, tapered square. Like this model: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/VP-Components-Bottom-Bracket-120mm-Square-Taper-Unsealed-Bike-NEW-/311359596201?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item487e7a66a9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/VP-Components-Bottom-Bracket-120mm-Square-Taper-Unsealed-Bike-NEW-/311359596201?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item487e7a66a9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But anyway, I'm still interested in knowing the model of this bike, and/or finding the Motobécane catalogues of years 1982-83]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important Note: The rear wheel is not the original (was broken). I also changed the part of the crank where I put the feet when I bought it (maybe I shouldn't have...). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if it looks quite dirty, I didn't have time to clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pics:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cHmc1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;full view&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LUzfz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chain ring&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NdCg2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dérailleur Sachs-Huret&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YOc59.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brakes Weinmann (1)&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QdwWq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brakes Winmann (2)&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4dnCa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Frame&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GepeD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Frame (inexternal 707)&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aW63r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;logo&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DxfK0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Front wheel (Maillard)&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lpMDy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom crank (1)&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/82amI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom crank (2) measured width=74mm&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19414" LastEditorUserId="19414" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T12:48:50.667" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T03:02:28.353" Title="Identify my Motobécane racing bike" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30468" CreationDate="2015-05-10T14:50:24.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one thing I always say to people in your situation is to remember that we have all been there. And the saving grace here is that by the time you get to buy your second bike, you will know exactly what to look for. With that in mind, you might want to think about limiting what you spend on your first bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for the moment...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your suspension and comfort on uneven roads, I would urge you to talk to other cyclists in your vicinity. Are they riding &quot;regular&quot; road bikes? Or are they riding bikes like cyclocross (CX) bikes to take account of the imperfect surfaces? For example, I live in the New Forest and ride a couple of road bikes, one audax and one out-and-out racing bike, with no problem on the road surfaces down here. I have been up to Yorkshire a few times and the surfaces didn't particularly strike me as any worse than the surfaces I ride. I just think that people who are already riding these roads might be able to help you, I'm sure they'd be happy if you stopped them and asked (as long as you did so sensibly I suppose!).....I certainly wouldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the road bike genre, there are obviously many different styles of bike. As I say, one of my bikes is an audax bike. Audaxes are road events that are long (can be hundreds of km), so whilst they are still road bikes, they're built so the rider will be comfortable in the saddle for several hours. They also take place in the winter, so bikes will usually have things like mudguards, also I fitted a rack to mine to go touring with panniers, so something like that may be an option for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're feeling more adventurous, in professional cycling there are a series of races early on in the season (called the Spring Classics), which are held in Belgium/Holland in March/April time of year. So basically, before the weather is warm. The conditions of these races can be quite challenging. The riders will often ride bikes that, whilst still racing bikes, are designed for slightly more rugged conditions. Much like a Yorkshire August, I suspect!! But there may be some value in looking on a couple of cycling web sites at some of the bikes that are ridden in these races, to give you a heads-up on what to shop for. (Of course it depends on your budget, but many of the bike designs are affordable to the general masses, although possibly with lesser frame materials and/or components.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But please, the single best piece of advice is to test the bike before you buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastEditorUserId="4808" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T15:43:29.607" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T15:43:29.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16844" CreationDate="2015-05-10T18:44:48.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Trek X Cal and also a 2015 Trek Remedy 9 29er. I'm 6'2&quot;, and when I started biking about 8 months ago I weighed 321lbs, now after over a 1000 miles of mountain biking I'm a trimmed down 255lbs. I believe the Treks are also rated at 300 lbs and I have had no problems with either bike. I've also never felt that either frame or rims were being stressed because if my size,  and both bikes still feel like race rockets to me, even on my large frame. I've also ridden a couple Santa Cruz and and Kona bikes and they also feel like we'll built bikes to me as well; probably capable of handling larger riders as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard from a couple people that the 29er wheels are better for larger people, but I don't really know for sure if that's true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19417" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T18:44:48.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31340" CreationDate="2015-05-10T19:22:11.670" Score="0" ViewCount="2672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using B&amp;amp;M dynamo powered front light (an Eyc and a Cyo) on two of our bikes and currently have them mounted at the fork crown using the stock mounting brackets. This causes a large shadow from the front wheel that we both don't like. So, I'm looking for racks that have a provision for mounting a light (these lights have a 10mm wide mount that takes a bolt running perpendicular to the beam axis). Does any one have suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T12:21:23.973" Title="Mounting a dynamo headlight to a front rack" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-10T19:43:31.467" Score="2" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about 200lbs 5'6 woman, 47yrs. Attached a screenshot of my last bike ride. It was mostly flat road, 2 lane country/ city bike paths (included was a 30 min layover where I grabbed a Snickers because I could feel I needed (energy?).  I like to ride but this was my longest bike ride ever attempted and included a 5km detour (where I took a wrong turn and became lost). That's the background. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to ride my bike I have now is a Specialized (Hard Rock) 19yrs old where last year I switched the mtn bike tires out for street just to make the bike lighter. I love riding long distances and hate going to the gym. I am a stay at home mom so the only other exercise I get is from the TV to the Kitchen and back. My intention is to start riding regularly.  I see these people out on my bike rides and they are riding Canondales etc. and are whizzing past me.  I can't help thinking maybe if I had a better / lighter bike, I could get around more easier. Surely technology has changed in 19 yrs? My husband says he won't shell out the money for a racing bike because he thinks it's overkill however I take this as he doesn't think I'm serious. My intention is to get fit and I am anal about comparing my speed records against myself ie.. I intend to make my laps in shorter time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want a good bike not a cheap bike one that will last me a long time that I can take on long rides. I should add the area I am in now is Scandinavia (Denmark) and no there are no bike lanes where I'm riding they are two lane roads. Looking to spend between $500 area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4RHr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19419" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2018-11-08T07:46:17.853" LastActivityDate="2018-11-08T07:46:17.853" Title="What type of bike should I get?" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-10T22:58:10.607" Score="1" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;My parents want me to store my bike outside. It's white and the tire rims are green. I really want to keep the color looking nice.&#xA;I know that keeping the bike outside will cause rusting on the chains and cables, so I put a tarp over it and sealed it tight.&#xA;I live in Seattle Washington where the weather is mostly rain but during the spring and summer it gets super hot.&#xA;Am I storing my bike correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19425" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T02:12:46.550" Title="Will a white painted bike get rusty when stored outside?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30477" CreationDate="2015-05-10T23:51:30.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, mini front racks have the type of mounts you are looking for. You will also likely need an arm to hold the light otherwise you will have to mount the light upside down, which the B&amp;amp;M is not designed to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of manufactures sell these type of racks and arms.   The racks will typically have a number of mounting points around the rack, mine happens to have five, two on each side and one in the front (which could use the same mount as the fork crown mount, but this would also expose the light more to knocks and bumps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the attached picture my rack is mounted quite low to the tire (so I can attach the fender to the rack), and the light is mounted low below the rack so I can fit a bag on top of the rack without interfering with the light.  As a result the pictured setup gets a slight shadow to one side.  You could mount the rack and light higher which would likely eliminate most if not all the shadow. You could also mount the arm holding the light to the front set of mounts on the rack which would move the light farther forward again eliminating a shadow.  I chose to mount in close to the rack to protect the light at the cost of a slight shadow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, my fork has an extra set of braze-ons for these types of mini-racks.  There are other types of mounting options so you don't necessarily need this braze-on to use this type of rack (e.g., via p-clamps). Some front pannier racks also have a platform like the one pictured built in, so you can use the regular mid-fork mounting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ITr2c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mini rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T03:40:59.780" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T03:40:59.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30478" CreationDate="2015-05-11T00:54:21.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First - a lot has changed in 19 years, but not much. Some bikes are lighter, faster (and a lot more expensive) than 20 years ago. The difference between your Hardrock and a new one today is small enough not to matter for most people most of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am with @Blam this - if just wanting to get fit its arguable a heavy slow bike is better - its certainly cheaper than upgrading.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If comparing against yourself is the goal, any bike will do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If comparing against others, one thing is more satisfying than passing some random cashed up middle aged exec wannabe on a $10000 super bike on your 20yo Hardrock - seeing their face as you do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If racing against others and winning is your goal, you need a new bike. If keeping up with a group is a problem to the extend you do not enjoy it, a new bike would be a wise investment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valid reasons for a new bike is if the Hardrock is a poor fit and/or you are uncomfortable riding it. If the Hardrock is worn out (many 19yo bikes have less miles than many 19day old bikes, so age is not a good guide) it may be better to replace it than spend money fixing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another valid reason is if, having put down hard earned money - against your husbands wishes, it makes you feel bad about not using it and motivates you to keep riding where you would have stopped riding had you not upgraded (i.e. it gives you the will power to keep riding). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One good reason not to replace it just yet - wait till you have a few more miles under your belt, and have established a pattern of use. At the moment you are getting into it. You may find you like single trail MTB riding, or get into 100km road rides. In a few months you will know how you are using your bike not how you plan to use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By not changing the bike, you don't have to ask 100 questions (What kind of bike, what brand, how much to spend.....) that have no correct answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T00:54:21.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30478" CreationDate="2015-05-11T01:04:41.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are determined to get a new bike then look for a used one so that you get the best bike for the buck. Your local bike shop is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/30471/8273&quot;&gt;first place to check out&lt;/a&gt;. And read answers to other questions about getting a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/upgrade-or-new-bike&quot;&gt;new bike&lt;/a&gt; (I added links even though you said you'd read lots). Also consider upgrades, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/shoes&quot;&gt;cycling shoes&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/clipless&quot;&gt;&quot;clipless&quot; pedals&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my advice is to find a riding buddy. The graphs show that most of the time you're riding at 20kph+, which is not bad. Riding with someone else can help push you along, rather than take a break. And if you are chatting to a buddy the km's go without you noticing. You can also learn from someone else, and they can help with the inevitable flat tire. And finally, riding with a buddy is safer, for men and women. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to find a buddy? All over the world there are cycling clubs. Many of course are into racing. But many are into regular social rides and touring. Try Googling for clubs in your area, or just try &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycling.isport.com/cycling-clubs/dk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cycling.isport.com/cycling-clubs/dk/&lt;/a&gt;. Clubs often are happy for you to come on a few rides as a guest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to go is to use a different cycling App. I'm guessing you use Endomondo. Strava is another cycling App that shows how your ride compares with previous rides and other people's. You can use it to find other cycling routes, and it can tell you the turns to make. As a woman you should be careful with the privacy settings. There is also a paid feature where you can compare with people of your age, gender, and weight. A different way to use Strava is to contact a person whose riding is similar to yours, to see if they are interested in a ride together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned your goals. You should be able to extend the distance you ride by about 10% each week. There are plenty of &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/training&quot;&gt;questions&lt;/a&gt; about that here too. Make sure you drink regularly, and avoid those sugar hits. If weight loss is a goal you can check out questions here on that also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt; Don't rush out for a new bike (show that hubby that you're serious). Keep building up the km's, if possible with someone else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T11:53:25.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35563" CreationDate="2015-05-11T01:41:08.467" Score="0" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a old (guessing ~2005) Jamis Aurora road bike. Recently, I found that the threads on the headset (probably original, nuts are made of aluminum) were stripped. The bike has a steel fork, and is designed for a 1&quot; threaded headset. Apparently these are not very common any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A local bike shop had an old one in stock, which looks pretty close to this: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00811SI5E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Fixie-Track-Road-Headset/dp/B00811SI5E/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1431293092&amp;amp;sr=8-9&amp;amp;keywords=bike+headset&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it turns out that due to the length of my fork (or my frame?), I need a &quot;low profile&quot; headset, rather than a standard one. So far, it looks like it will cost around $50 for one of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the other option would be to replace the fork, which is more expensive, but would save me the trouble of dealing with this problem next time the headset goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19427" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T02:15:32.247" Title="Alternative to 1&quot; threaded low profile headset?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-11T05:41:53.760" Score="3" ViewCount="1653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Dunlop mountain bike - I'm not sure whether it's a steel or aluminium frame. (I have had the bike since I received it as a kid probably 20 years ago.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some time, I've had it stored on a horizontal wall-mounted hook in my garage. For some reason, the hook mounting came away from the wall, dropping the bike 4 feet onto the concrete floor. The front wheel was not attached, so the forks hit the ground and resulted in the damage and bending of the left-side dropout you see in the photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-SUCF2xwBC-g/VUDRuXDjlWI/AAAAAAAAHvA/DCj35AzpskU/s1920-d/fork-view.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;forks front view&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9pYe8MqcUZ8/VUDRv3weHeI/AAAAAAAAHvA/Ch49GmeAppE/s1677-Ut/fork-collage.png&quot; alt=&quot;different views of fork - collage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options do I have to rectify this damage? I think the blades are still in alignment, so can I bend the dropout back straight and be safe? Or does it really require replacement of the fork for integrity? As stated, the bike is old and honestly in need of a little TLC, but to date has been perfectly serviceable. However, if this would take any amount of money to repair (in conjunction with other possible servicing), it might be more economical to replace the whole bike outright? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19250" LastEditorUserId="19250" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T06:54:35.953" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:34:26.250" Title="Damaged (bent) fork dropout - what are my options?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30491" CreationDate="2015-05-11T12:04:17.427" Score="2" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in how I would choose a chainring configuration, supposing I was either replacing mine or building a new bike for a similar usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 50/39/30 triple chainring (&amp;amp; 10-speed cassette) on my Bianchi Volpe.  Rivendell sells a 46/36/24, with the argument that 50 is overkill, and if you're going to have a granny gear it should be smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I buy that argument, but I spend 90% of my time riding 39 in the front and 15/17 in the back.  If I downgraded my middle to 36, then I'd have to ride smaller cogs in the back, which means it'll wear faster (I do ~2500 miles per year of city riding).  If I use the 46 then I'd be almost cross-chaining to get the same ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it sounds like this configuration would be bad for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think a 46/30 double might be perfect.  That would pull the big ring in closer so when I'm riding on the bigger cogs in the back I hopefully wouldn't be cross-chaining.  It would wear slower because I'd be on more teeth.  I do a moderate bike tour about once a year and the 30 has worked fine for me so far (haven't done any mountains, but have done some steepish hills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my rationale make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18889" LastEditorUserId="18889" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T13:46:27.263" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T18:44:53.213" Title="Choosing chainring configuration" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30442" CreationDate="2015-05-11T12:23:01.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I go grocery shopping with my bike all the time, I put groceries in touring panniers mounted on a rear rack.  They are a little cumbersome to load but I can fit a lot of stuff.  You can't fit a week's worth of groceries for a family of 5, though, so it depends on your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a solution more elegant for shopping, you can buy square-shaped shopping panniers which will more easily allow you to carry canvas shopping bags full of groceries.  These are very popular in Holland where bikes are a primary mode of transit. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://dutchbikeshop.ie/wp-content/uploads/wp-checkout/images/fastrider-pannier-cargo-1423825156.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dutchbikeshop.ie/wp-content/uploads/wp-checkout/images/fastrider-pannier-cargo-1423825156.jpg&lt;/a&gt;)  One word of caution for most bikes in the US-- you'll have to watch out for heel clearance with a square bag like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're serious about hauling a lot of stuff then you should get a cargo bike, like the Surly Big Dummy or something with a frame-mounted front rack (Workcycles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18889" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:23:01.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30487" CreationDate="2015-05-11T12:34:26.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a frame builder to braze in a new dropout. That dropout is finished and dangerous to use, it has bent too far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8656" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T12:34:26.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30488" CreationDate="2015-05-11T18:35:08.087" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a question here, it's just hidden in a misleading focus on details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do you choose chainring setups?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to analyze the gear ratios and speeds that you ride at and figure out the correct&#xA;overlap for your riding. The way that I've found most useful to do this is to chart the gear ratios vs speed and use an error bar to represent the speed at a given rpm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B8a8W.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want to avoid is having to &quot;double shift&quot; (i.e. shift both back and front) for the &#xA;speeds that you typically ride at. IMHO, cross chaining is not an issue for modern gear. It&#xA;does absolutely no harm. However, double shifting gets to be very awkward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rough guide if your typical speed is 25 kph, having a couple gears higher and lower&#xA;on the same chainring at the rpms you find comfortable would be a good setup. A lot depends on what range of rpm you find comfortable to ride. A poor setup is one which&#xA;you have to double shift to get the next gear either higher or lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having done a bunch of graphs and played with both triples and compact doubles over the years. I think if you are going compact double, you need to be able to do most of your flat/slightly rolling climbing in the big gear. And for somewhat average cyclists I agree with your reasoning. A 46/30 and something like 12-27 in the back would be a good replacement for the typical road triple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;46/30s are made, just very hard to find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hc44N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Velo Orange 46/30&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/grand-cru-50-4bcd-crankset-mkii.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Velo Orange 46/30&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T18:44:53.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T18:44:53.213" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-11T18:58:25.460" Score="0" ViewCount="1551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have replaced my wheels with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/0/nexus.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Nexus 8-speed internal gear hub&lt;/a&gt; set but I may have had the problem before the change. When I push down relatively hard on the crank arm for example starting off quickly or riding uphill fast, the crank arm slips with a jolt. Quite often the chain comes off soon after. I can't really see anything as I'm always obviously riding at the time, and the noise can't be located, but it is very irritating and happens in all gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would anyone be able to tell me what this could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19435" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T20:27:49.917" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T08:59:25.157" Title="The crank arm slips when pressing hard on pedals with Shimano Nexus" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29938" CreationDate="2015-05-11T19:44:41.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try to find a serial number engraved somewhere on the bike. For road bike it is sometime under the bottom bracket, so you can try to look there first. Manufacturers might have different serial number pattern so you can start your search there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, posting a picture on a forum or here might be a good idea since some people might recognize which  bike it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T19:44:41.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-11T23:22:23.853" Score="0" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was plucking at the spokes of my rear wheel today which has an asymmetric lacing pattern. It's 2 spokes (both tangential to the rim) on the drive side along with a single spoke on the non-drive side. There are 7 of these triplets spread across the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in one pair of DS spokes, one spoke had a dramatically different pitch than the other spoke in the pair. This spoke also felt a tiny bit looser when pushed on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spinning the wheel and using the brake blocks as a reference, the rear wheel is slightly out of true. There is some lateral bias - but the runoff looks pretty tiny. Definitely not an issue even when running brake pads very close to the rim. This to me suggests that this should not be an issue. Blame me for being paranoid regarding an expensive wheelset that's almost brand new. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, what are the chances of having this loose spoke pop in the future? Should I bring the wheel into a shop and ask for a truing? Do all shops check for even spoke tension at the end of a truing? I've heard of people who got their wheels trued only to end up with a cracked rim shortly afterward or popped spokes - presumably because the mechanic didn't bother to check spoke tension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T06:37:50.983" Title="Different tension on one spoke" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10764" CreationDate="2015-05-12T00:35:25.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I second (or third) the recommendation of B&amp;amp;M LED lights from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&amp;amp;m-hl.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Peter White Cycles&lt;/a&gt;. We have an B&amp;amp;M Lumotec Eyc T Senso Plus ($72, 50 lux) on one bike and a Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo Senso Plus ($98, 80 lux) on another. The Eyc came first, and for riding on dark streets the beam isn't wide enough for my taste – you end up making turns &quot;into the dark.&quot; The Cyo is much better, the beam is wider and has a bit more reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said the Eyc is not a &lt;strong&gt;bad&lt;/strong&gt; light by any stretch, if money is an issue you can save an additional $6 by getting the version without the daytime running light (Licht 24). The difference is that the Licht 24 version uses a second LED that doesn't have the sharp cutoff of the primary LED optics so it seems brighter to oncoming cars in the daylight. At night the Licht 24 LED is off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your generator's output is suitable for a halogen bulb without a taillight, they draw much more power than modern LED lights, so you should be just fine running any of the German spec LED lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T00:35:25.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30497" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T01:28:56.553" Score="2" ViewCount="1641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride my bike as primary mode of transportation everyday. Recently, I decided to start using panniers for groceries, to spare my shoulders. I hooked them on to the rack on my bike, and rode to Trader Joe's just fine. Packed them up with my purchases, then rode home. I ALMOST made it all the way home, but about two blocks from my house I went up a ramp and the back corner of the bag on the left-hand side caught in my spokes! It sounded like my bike was exploding. I got off and started walking, but had to stop every few seconds to pull the pannier back out of the spokes. What is most likely to have caused this? It seemed like I had it installed correctly, and felt like the grocery weight was equally distributed in both bags. It also seemed like going up the ramp that led to the bike lane triggered it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I prevent this from happening again, since I live in a neighborhood with lots of hills and don't want to deal with this every time there's an incline in the road?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19440" LastEditorUserId="19440" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T07:30:21.807" LastActivityDate="2020-10-07T11:32:11.357" Title="Panniers stuck in tire spokes!" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30497" CreationDate="2015-05-12T01:53:01.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once had this happen before by combining inexpensive saddle bags combined with a inexpensive rack.  The bags were not stiff enough for things like groceries and the rack provided no support to keep the saddle bags from twisting.   With the heavy weight the bags simply twist into the spokes while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now use higher quality expedition style panniers and racks (picture below). These have lots of side support to keep panniers/saddlebags from twisting. The panniers themselves also have stiff inserts to prevent twisting. I have put close to 120 lbs on the bike (front and back) after big grocery run with no such problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/96nPQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;steel rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a photo of the rack and bag setup will help diagnose the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T01:53:01.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27103" CreationDate="2015-05-12T06:22:04.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a croozer kid trailer (actually a Mec.ca equivalent from the mid 2000's) and it has the same square spring loaded hitch that is in this question. I also am in the predicament of trying to acquire the appropriate bike-side hitch bracket for the hitch. But after reading comments about how the spring mechanism is not very pleasurable to use, I'm considering trying to swap out the hitch for a Burley or Chariot mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I know this question is outdated, but I have come across several others posts of people looking to find a solution to this problem so I figured I'd post my research - it seems that as trailers change owners, the hitch brackets are often left behind!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have dismantled the hitch from the Croozer/Mec trailer arm shown in this image:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iDP2v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;original trailer arm&quot;&gt;&#xA;The measurements are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tube diameter: 23mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;distance from end of the arm to pin hole (pin shown in the hole): 38mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This post shows how an arm - very similar to this was replaced with a burley flex connector.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.commutebybike.com/2008/07/17/hitches-and-couplers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.commutebybike.com/2008/07/17/hitches-and-couplers/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;One concern is the video indicated the fellow had to actually cut back the arm in order to provide the flex connector enough length outside the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The post provides excellent information about the measurements of the various parts (i've copied them here in mm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Burley&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round Tongue: 21.6mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Square Tongue: 23.3mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thule/Chariot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lollipop diameter: 19mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details about the Chariot parts can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.commutebybike.com/forums/two-wheel-bike-trailers/specification-on-the-chariot-hitch-cup-system/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.commutebybike.com/forums/two-wheel-bike-trailers/specification-on-the-chariot-hitch-cup-system/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that isn't clear is the diameter of the hole in the lollipop or flex connector. In my case, the original hitch had a 6mm pin passing through the spring core connector. i found online that the lollipop pin is an M6 bolt, so it should work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the material of the burley, it's likely it can be made to fit, but since the chario lollipop is made of hard plastic, it maybe harder to modify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a local store which has a Chariot Alternative Hitch (sorry not allowed to post more links) which I think I will give a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19441" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T06:22:04.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T07:22:18.613" Score="-1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;What if I fill liquid nitrogen in tube of two wheeler?? Is it OK? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19444" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T09:01:11.687" Title="What will be the effect of nitrogen if it filled in two wheelers tube?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-05-12T13:15:34.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T07:35:49.657" Score="0" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if these work together? I see there are dedicated iPhone +altimeter apps for the iPhone, but I can't find info if there is an altimeter built into the iPhone that works with these Endomondo/Strava apps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my fear is that my gps is not tracking the correct altimeter information. Should I be worried?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19419" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T08:08:49.053" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T08:08:49.053" Title="Endomondo/Strava +iPhone6 +altimeter" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;strava&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-05-13T13:33:26.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30503" CreationDate="2015-05-12T08:01:21.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;GPS &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be accurate +/- 15 meteres.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gpsinformation.net/main/altitude.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gpsinformation.net/main/altitude.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a GPS device with barometric measurement - then this can improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should you be worried? If you're using it for cycling then probably not - it is only an indicative figure of metres gained or lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to land a plane - then yes. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T08:01:21.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30502" CreationDate="2015-05-12T08:07:05.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are 78% of the way there already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air is 78% nitrogen, 20% oxygen, 2% other gases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the difference gained in using pure nitrogen is going to be minimal.&#xA;And accurately gauging air pressure will be tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T08:07:05.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30502" CreationDate="2015-05-12T09:01:11.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liquid Nitrogen boils at -196 Degrees Celsius  (321 degrees Fahrenheit) and is cold enough that rubber will become brittle. Its probably not a good idea as I am fairly sure the the brittle rubber tube will not hold the pressure created as the liquid Nitrogen boils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciS6RLSECw4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;View before you do it.&lt;/a&gt; and if you decide to go ahead, ring the emergency room before hand and book yourself a bed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean filling tires with pure nitrogen gas, refer &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18688/what-are-the-advantages-of-filling-tires-with-nitrogen-instead-of-air&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T09:01:11.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T09:20:04.010" Score="3" ViewCount="36818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to get back into cycling again, however over the last couple of years I have piled a few needless pounds on. I currently weight 178kg (392 lbs), would a standard bike frame withstand my weight? I'm hoping to loose substantial weight hopefully by cycling each day as I've never been much of a runner. But do I need to loose this weight before I start cycling. I had been looking at the Carrera Vengeance Mens Mountain Bike 2015 - 22&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19445" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T14:53:25.177" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T06:13:06.900" Title="What is the max weight a standard bycycle would take?" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-05-13T13:32:55.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30494" CreationDate="2015-05-12T09:43:45.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spoke most likely to &quot;pop&quot; would be one of the other two in the triplet as they have to take more of the strain (making up for the loose one). If your wheel is still true, just tighten the nipple of the loose spoke until it sounds the same as the others. Do it gradually while checking this is not affecting the wheel trueness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19001" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T09:43:45.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10764" CreationDate="2015-05-12T10:03:36.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can also recommend the Busch&amp;amp;Müller Dynamo lights. They are all designed for dynamo (AC, protection against overload/varying voltage, inbuilt capacitor to stay on for a few minutes when stopped, etc.), you don't have to worry about that. And although the manual says &quot;hub dynamo&quot;, I'm running them successfully on a bottle dynamo (6V/3W). AFAIK, all dynamos are similar enough that the electronics can handle them. Many models also have electronics that change between day/night settings (useful for tunnels!) and other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding theft, they all look fairly inconspicuous, stylish but not particularly expensive, so I don't think they attract casual thieves (experts of course will know their value). The mount is very solid, and the bolt uses a special kind of star-shaped screw; it's not totally theftproof but you can't use standard screwdrivers, and I found even with the proper tools its a bit of fiddling, so I'm not worried about theft; other bits of the bike can be taken off more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of model depends on your situation. Are you mostly cycling in lit areas or do you cycle in dark unlit areas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the &quot;Lumotec Lyt T Senso Plus&quot; first, it is very good for city cycling, with a really bright area on the road so that you can see potholes and obstacles. It's also not very expensive (40 Euro). However, I often cycle through a dark park, and while the Lyt lit up the path perfectly well, I felt I wanted one with a wider beam that also lit up the sides, it just felt more comfortable and safe to see the area around the path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I then bought a &quot;Luxos B&quot; (RRP 119 Euro), which has a much wider beam. This is very good in all respects, it almost seems like a car headlight (perhaps not quite as bright, but in terms of beam width and distance that you can see). The &quot;Luxos U&quot; additionally has a battery and a USB charger and is much more expensive, but I'm not convinced it's a good idea. For one thing, the battery will have limited lifetime especially when outside from winter to summer, and I generally don't think you should combine different functions (light and USB charging) in the same very expensive item. The Luxos B has a capacitor so that it stays on for a few minutes when you stop, more than enough for traffic lights and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The B&amp;amp;M Website shows the beam shape and sample images, it's worth comparing the models and think about what kind of area you're cycling in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the B&amp;amp;M models are bright enough so that you are clearly visible to cars in normal street situations (the Luxos even has additional non-directional LEDs), although if you are in an arms-race situation (where everybody else has multiple superbright lights) you may feel too dark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit off-topic perhaps, but as somebody mentioned it in a comment, please stay away from superbright LED lights without shaped beams, not only cheap ones but also some of the expensive brands. It is important to have a shaped beam that illuminates the path but not dazzle oncoming cars, other cyclists or pedestrians, and that they are adjusted carefully. Also please stay away from helmet-mounted lights. Or at least use them only where absolutely needed (e.g. to be seen in an already very bright environment). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My regular experience, when I cycle along through the park and somebody with a floodlight comes round the corner and completely blinds me - don't know how many times I ended up in the grass, and once I almost collided with one of the &quot;floodlighters&quot;. The worst experience was when I suddenly faced a team of several riders, each with a superbright handle bar light and a helmet light, all looking straight at me. I couldn't see anything for minutes afterwards. Unfortunately I only managed to stammer a &quot;too bright&quot; before they had gone (they didn't stop to ask if I'm ok...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So please, when you check out different lights, not only consider your own requirements, but also those of fellow path users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T10:03:36.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T12:17:23.373" Score="1" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi friends I have a hercules roadeo a100 and I want to install a disc brake to it. It comes with a disc brake in front and v brake in rear. So can I install a disc brake to it and how much it costs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19448" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T17:08:03.030" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T23:06:19.970" Title="to install disc brake" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30511" CreationDate="2015-05-12T12:52:25.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First make sure you have disc brake mounting tabs on the seat stays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EMQFs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear Disc Brake Mounts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have those, then it's pretty much impossible. Technically still possible, but not without added costs that go well beyond what your bike is worth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you need to make sure your rear hub has mounting holes for the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bo3mG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear Hub Disc Mounts&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have these, you will need to replace the hub or the wheel.  In your case it would probably be better to just replace the entire wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike is pretty low end.  If you are having braking issues, first make sure everything is adjusted properly.  Then perhaps consider getting a higher quality v-brake with good brake pads. This upgrade will be cheaper and will provide more than adequate braking power.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T12:52:25.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T13:02:14.067" Score="0" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AudeX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWRbR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;enter image description here&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zsDRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;I purchased this bike at a thrift shop and it rides like a dream.  Out of curiosity I'm trying to figure out the make and brand.  The parts on it seem to be very nice so I'm thinking that the frame is top of the line too.  your help is much appreciated.  Thank you in advance &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19449" LastEditorUserId="19449" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T13:25:40.407" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T13:25:40.407" Title="Bike Frame Brand and Model?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T13:31:23.717" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accidentally punctured (very small hole) the dust seal on my Fox Evolution CTD fork. Obviously the seals capacity to prevent the dirt/dust/etc. from entering the forks has been compromised. Will any oil or air pressure leak out if I ride the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user9135" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T13:31:23.717" Title="Punctured fork seal" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30530" CreationDate="2015-05-12T13:58:12.547" Score="1" ViewCount="17250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of upgrading my bike, which has a Sora 9-speed system on it (50/34 chainset). The upgrade is for esthetic reasons - i simply like the look of the internal cable routing. That being said, it is not an absolutely essential upgrade, and if it costs too much I will not do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to buy the new Shimano 105 5800 11-speed cassette, shifters and chain. I understand that the 11-speed chain is thinner than a 9-speed. Does this mean that I also have to buy a new crankset to replace my 50/34 Shimano Compact FC-R345 Octalink? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19451" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T14:41:52.307" Title="Is the 9-speed Sora crankset compatible with 105 11-speed chain?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30507" CreationDate="2015-05-12T14:41:09.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;178kg would put significant strain on most off the shelf bicycles. Most critical parts would be wheels, bottom bracket, crank set, and suspension if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you go to your local bike shop and have custom assembled bicycle for you with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheels 26&quot; with at least 36 spokes, best quality double walled rims, best quality spokes and good wheel builder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;robust steel frame with no suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wide tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bottom bracket and crank set with external bearings like Hollowtech II, or better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T14:41:09.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30515" CreationDate="2015-05-12T15:06:47.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should just be able to replace the chainrings for 11 spd ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also get 9-spd 105 shifters if you just want tidier cable routing (I assume you mean internal as in under the bar tape) which would let you keep the rest of your groupset as is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T15:06:47.080" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30518" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T15:25:33.553" Score="2" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my bike the derailleur mounting bracket (hanger) is held by the hub axle and therefore fills some of the dropout slot on one side and pushes the axle lower in the slot on that side. So the axle is braced in its recess on that side, but not on the other side. This can cause the wheel to go crooked when I hit a bump and it's hard to get the quick-release skewer tight enough to prevent it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me it seems like a dummy dropout-filler is needed for the other side to balance the support the mounting bracket adds  -- or else a solid axle core that can bolt the wheel on tighter. Where can I get such a filler or what are my chances to convert the hub to a solid core axle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19453" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T14:06:10.053" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T07:06:04.440" Title="Columba folder w/mountain 10sp cassette &amp; Sram X7 derailleur" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-12T19:38:51.937" Score="0" ViewCount="995" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed a Shimano Hollowtech II crank and bottom bracket on my bike, and I'm wondering how they work together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the bearings are located in little cups that screw into the outside of the bottom bracket shell. They are sealed but can spin freely. To install the crankset, first you insert the pedal spindle (with drive-side crankarm already attached) through the bottom bracket shell. Then you attach the other-side crankarm to the pedal spindle via a splined interface and then tighten its two bolts. That much makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how does crankarm-spindle-othercrankarm assembly interact with the bearings? In particular, when you apply power to the crankarm (via pedaling), how does that power get transferred to the bearings? The outside of the bearing housing is flat (see first photo below) and I can't see how the inside of the crankarm would interlock with the outside of the bearing housing. The inside of the bottom bracket tube is smooth too, and recommended to be greased up. It seems like the only thing connecting the crankarm to the bearing housing is friction, and that seems like it would slip and be generally unreliable. The only thing determining how tightly the crankarm is set against the bearing housing is how much you tighten the other-side crankarm with the &quot;bearing preload cap&quot; (see second photo below) but the bearing preload cap is plastic, kind of flimsy, and explicitly recommended to be not very tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain how this all works together? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQvvi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano BB52&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWDPA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano bearing preload cap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19455" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T00:34:32.767" Title="How does pedaling power transfer to the bearings in Hollowtech II bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25492" CreationDate="2015-05-12T20:07:02.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, there is no reason at all to replace the rear wheel (other than to match the size/appearance of the front wheel if that matters to you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get &quot;commuter grade&quot; (as I read Peter White) dynamo hubs from Sanyo, Shutter Precision, and Shimano that are decent quality and reasonably priced. I have a front wheel built on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/sanyo.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sanyo H27 hub&lt;/a&gt; ($47 from Peter White), so far so good, but I've only got about 1000 km on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like the &quot;always ready&quot; aspect of dynamo lights, and since the output is AC you can do cool things with the taillight – B&amp;amp;M makes a light, the Toplight Line Plus BrakeTec, that uses the frequency of the AC from the generator to infer when you are braking and modulate the brightness of the taillight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T20:07:02.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29776" CreationDate="2015-05-12T20:12:02.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that the etymology is by analogy – the closest existing hardware to a spoke nipple was/is a pipe nipple so that when wheel makers started looking for a name for the little thing with the threads that tensions the spokes someone thought that they looked a bit like tiny pipe nipples and the name stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T20:12:02.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2864" CreationDate="2015-05-12T20:43:28.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Uh... Surprised why nobody's mentioned:&#xA;1) A dynamo-powered light changes intensity depending on speed (may not be an issue with modern LEDs which require low power);&#xA;2) No lights at all if you're stationary. This a serious disadvantage. If you have to stop in a dark area for whatever reason (puncture, something fell off the rear carrier), being seen is vital.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me (2) is sufficient to never consider a dynamo. As far as the relying on batteries go, I have multiple lights anyway; it's unlikely that batteries will go dead on all of them at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19458" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T20:43:28.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30519" CreationDate="2015-05-12T21:05:44.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem to be assuming that &quot;power has to be transferred to the bearings&quot;. That is not the case. There is no &quot;interlock&quot;. All that needs to happen is that the crank spindle can spin with low friction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you pointed out, the inside of the bearings is smooth and so is the spindle. I guess it's possible that they slip relative to each other, but so what -- the spindle/crank still rotates, the chainring rotates, and power is transferred from the pedals to the crank arms to the chainring to the chain to the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, the friction between the spindle and the inside of the bearing is probably greater than the friction between the inside of the bearing and the outside of the bearing, and therefore the bearing spins.  I assume this is the case because the bearing is designed to have low friction, while the spindle inside the bearing is basically like a shaft inside a bushing (a cylindrical hole), which has more friction than a bearing; otherwise we would not use bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T21:05:44.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-13T00:21:19.053" Score="1" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be nice. I know these things are cheap. Just wanna be semi prepared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19461" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T05:31:05.583" Title="Just bought 30 huffys cranbrooks for a bike rental business. WHAT PROBLEMS SHOULD I BE PREPARING FOR" Tags="&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-05-13T13:32:03.180" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30524" CreationDate="2015-05-13T01:01:59.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start out by checking all the bearings and adjusting them.  In my (limited) experience with cheap bikes, the people that assemble them don't care at all if they do it right.  I've seen wheel bearings that were way too tight, so when you lift the wheel off the ground and spin it, it stops quickly.  This means that when people ride the bikes, the bearings wear out quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same thing for the headset (steering bearings), although probably not as critical, but easier to adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T01:01:59.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30524" CreationDate="2015-05-13T02:40:43.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forty years ago Huffy bikes were actually pretty well made, just heavy, ugly, and not very nimble.  But now that everything is made in China, as cheaply as possible, it's hard to predict the quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, you need to keep the tires properly inflated.  This is a seemingly trivial but incredibly important (and often overlooked) maintenance item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also set up a schedule to check every bike for such items as bearing play (both hubs, crank, and headset) and chain slack at regular intervals.  And squirt a bit of oil on the chains at regular intervals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, wait to see what breaks.  A lot will depend on how your customers treat the bikes.  Be prepared for some bikes to be destroyed, and for others to disintegrate on their own.  Expect to use damaged bikes as &quot;organ donors&quot; for repair parts for more serviceable bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Park Tools website and Sheldon Brown's site are your friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I do wonder what provision you have for adjusting seat height.  You may need to invest in quick release adjusters for the seats.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T02:40:43.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30529" CreationDate="2015-05-13T03:19:22.350" Score="1" ViewCount="22971" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my second modern bike and I got the same problem each time. The chain slips when under load (usually when I'm standing, but I can slip starting at a light and still sitting too). At first I had an aluminum cassette and the dents broke quickly. I replaced that old cassette (that actually came off as it completely broke) with a steel cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steel cassette has been working well in the sense that the dents are still all looking good and it has not come into pieces yet, however, the chain still slips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, I had 9-gear cassettes when I use the smallest gear 99% of the time (San Francisco type of hills still require me to change gear, otherwise, I rarely change anything, so I could assume that the small gear of the cassette gets worn down quickly...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible to have a cassette with longer dents to avoid the slipping? My old steel frame bikes had cassettes with really long dents, in comparison. Could a find similar cassettes that are compatible with my new bike? (I have a specialized Roubaix now)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19462" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T23:25:40.240" Title="Chain slipping in cassette when under load, could a different type of cassette work better?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30527" CreationDate="2015-05-13T04:52:28.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain will typically slip under the following conditions:&#xA; 1. the chain is worn out (this can be measured with a cheap tool,&#xA;    or by your LBS).&#xA; 2. the cassette is worn out &#xA; 3. one or more of the chainrings (the cogs on the crankset) is worn out &#xA; 4. the chain and/or cassette/cogs/pulley wheel are dirty and full of oil/road-grit/gunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These can occur simultaneously - a dirty chain causes rapid chain wear, a worn out chain causes the cassette to wear out.  If you have been riding with a slipping chain for long, you are very likely to have worn out both the chain and the cassette and will have to replace both.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T04:52:28.450" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30515" CreationDate="2015-05-13T05:15:13.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano publishes a compatibility document.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to URL &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/&lt;/a&gt; , select &quot;compatibility&quot; to download a document &quot;2015-2016_Compatibility_v010_en.pdf&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to that document, you would also need to change you crankset, your front and rear derailleurs, and possibly your bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T05:15:13.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30524" CreationDate="2015-05-13T05:31:05.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bikes have a problem that causes them not to go, that can be lived with.  But if they have a problem which causes them not to STOP, somebody could DIE.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those bikes have the cheapest brake pads possible which might wear out very quickly, depending how they are used.  Most of your customers will not make any impact on the brake pads, but some will push the bikes hard, deliberately ride up and down hills, maybe in the rain - under such circumstances set of brake pads which you can still see the lines when renting out can become worn out completely in a single rental period, also causing damage to the wheel rims, not to mention legal problems in case of an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start replacing the worn brake pads, you might consider upgrading to other than the cheapest option, because they give a better usage-time/cost ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T05:31:05.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30507" CreationDate="2015-05-13T06:13:06.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly I want to congratulate you on your resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yours is twice the weight (90 kg x 2) of a normal heavy rider. I see that bike you mentioned is a very cheap bike.  For your safety DON'T!!!!.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can recommend that you do a LOT of searching online about bikes for heavy people, find examples that have worked for people at or above your specific size and weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one very interesting blog by someone who lost weight and &quot;reclaimed&quot; health through bicycle riding:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reclaimingjames.blogspot.com/2013/04/bicycle-recommendation-for-very.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://reclaimingjames.blogspot.com/2013/04/bicycle-recommendation-for-very.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He recommends a 29er with fat slick tires for road use.  It sounds good.  You will notice he mentions $5000 to $6000 dollars as a price tag but I think it doesn't need to be that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Surley&quot;  (&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/&lt;/a&gt;) is a US company that makes sturdy steel bikes at a reasonable price.  (I am planning to get a Surley for my next bike).  They have contact information on their web page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope they are as friendly as their website looks, and they would give you the info about what bike would suit your needs.  Then you could go to a LBS which is a Surely dealer to get the bike you want and have already confirmed would suit you, who could also help get the details right like the right kind of saddle.  I guess you could do it with budget of $2000 US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 80 kg and I have a scar above my left eye that tells me that &quot;cheapest&quot; does not make sense when choosing a bike.  Even more so for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck dude!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T06:13:06.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30494" CreationDate="2015-05-13T06:37:50.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a brand new wheelset which is within 0.05mm of true yet has wide variation in spoke tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the wheel is true it probably means that when the wheel was built attention was not paid to balancing the spoke tensions.  That is a sign of low quality wheel building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tension among all spokes should be +/- 5%.  Or course on the rear wheel the DS and NDS may use different tensions, as much as 40% difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should at least take it back to your point of purchase and see what they have to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally this year I tired of constantly truing my 16/24 bladed spoke lightweight wheels, and purchased 32/32 round spoke medium weight wheels with Velocity A23 rims from a local wheel builder who offered a lifetime guarantee of wheel tuning.  Nice - the spokes all came with balanced tension, and the wheels are solid meaning I never have to true them - except when I ran into a crevice, scraping the rims and flatting a tire.  Still, barely out of alignment, but the wheel builder tuned it up anyway - nice guy.  Much better than dealing with a faceless company.  And oh yeah - these reliable wheels were one half what I paid for the unreliable ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T06:37:50.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30555" CreationDate="2015-05-13T07:38:30.583" Score="0" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to ask if my bike is able to do enduro/AM racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9yGt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Giant Stance 27.5&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Giant Stance 27.5 2&#xA;Deore 2014 RD 10spd (with switch)&#xA;Deore 2014 shifters &#xA;Deore 2014 brake set&#xA;FSA Comet 24/30/40 crank set (stock parts, already hollow tech)&#xA;Alivio 2015 FD Highband&#xA;Rockshox gold tk 30 solo air 2015 fork 120mm travel (with rebound adjuster and lockout)&#xA;Rockshox Monarch R rear suspension 120mm travel (rebound only)&#xA;2014 ZTR Crest rims&#xA;origin 8 hubs&#xA;pillars spokes&#xA;Schawlbe nobby nic evo tires&#xA;Tubeless setup (stans sealant)&#xA;Deore 10 spd sprocket&#xA;Deore chain 10 spd(not sure if deore or just shimano non series)&#xA;Giant Cockpit(HB - 720mm, stem - 90mm +-6 degree, stock giant seatpost)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I need to upgrade any parts then I'm open to suggestions, opinions and flames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19467" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T13:40:20.900" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T03:17:18.160" Title="Can my bike do enduro/AM racing?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30542" CreationDate="2015-05-13T07:42:32.400" Score="1" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007IV6E3Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwinn Willy&lt;/a&gt; (single speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commute is 6 miles each way on flat road with a bike section. There's only one 'hilly' section. A single speed bike is too slow. Everyone keeps passing me. I need gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to spend money on a new bike since I like my current one so much. I thought I can upgrade it to have gears using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/271805891429&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Nexus 3&lt;/a&gt; internal gear hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that I can fit it in. I can even mount the cable through to the steering bar. But I can't find anything on how to install it into the wheel itself. So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will it fit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need new spokes? If so, what size? I can't figure out what size my wheels are. They measure 27.5&quot; including the tires. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hub only gives 33% boost in gear. If I want more than that can I put in a new crankset? What size? I can't figure out what size I have and what's bigger than that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19466" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T02:47:40.380" LastActivityDate="2019-10-23T00:35:11.880" Title="Is it possible to upgrade Schwinn Willy to use an internal gear hub?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-13T07:53:22.600" Score="9" ViewCount="9370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a city bicycle with a drum brake. Since the braking parts of the system are inside the drum I can't see if it is worn out or not. Are there any indicators that give that information or at least an hint? (e.g.: squeaking sound, some marker on the drum, whatever...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6150" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T00:05:20.677" LastActivityDate="2019-01-21T04:04:33.083" Title="When do I know the drum brake is at the end of life and needs replacement?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30549" CreationDate="2015-05-13T08:03:36.670" Score="5" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a sensible difference between special bike grease (i.e. park tool grease) and grease used in vehicles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth (when speaking about cheap bikes) spending 10 times more money for special grease, or will vehicle grease be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="6726" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T13:30:10.647" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T19:02:14.463" Title="Difference between grease" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;grease&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30420" CreationDate="2015-05-13T12:56:41.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Says on the sidewall of a tyre. Mine says between 40-60psi. They also have it in 'bars' if you like to measure in that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out an example here &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-magic-mary-evo-mtb-tyre-super-gravity/rp-prod118255&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/schwalbe-magic-mary-evo-mtb-tyre-super-gravity/rp-prod118255&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Says max 50psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12757" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T12:56:41.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-13T13:27:52.047" Score="0" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really hate spiders and I'm afraid of them so this is really a problem for me. I use bike every day to get everywhere - to work, to shop etc. These nasty things can make a web in a matter of a few hours here (Cambridge, UK) - almost every morning when I want to get to work there is a web, almost every afternoon when I want to go home there is a web. Sometimes there is even a spider. It's really annoying and terrifying. I found this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24000/how-can-i-keep-spiders-and-other-bugs-off-my-bicycle&quot;&gt;How can I keep spiders and other bugs off my bicycle?&lt;/a&gt; but it wasn't really helpful. I was thinking about spraying my bike with Raid or something, or maybe spraying it with some kind of water solution with washing liquid and essential oils (I read that some of them repel spiders). Do you have any advice on this? Or maybe at least some advice on dangerous fluids for my bike that I shouldn't use for this? (Like water makes my bike rusty)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19472" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T12:18:33.430" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T12:18:33.430" Title="How to prevent spiders from making webs on my bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-05-15T12:18:13.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30535" CreationDate="2015-05-13T14:03:32.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible -- you can either find a 36 spoke internal gear hub (since you have a 36 hole rim) and have the wheel re-built with the new hub and bodge on the cables for the IGH shifting. Alternatively, there are automatic shifting hubs (e.g. the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/urban/products/automatix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SRAM Automatix&lt;/a&gt;) which will also have a coaster brake and no shift cables. That being said, its probably going to be cheaper to get a new rear wheel than have someone building the wheel up with a new hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, in the end, on a 300 dollar bike, you're going to be better off economically just buying a new bike with gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the crankset, you can swap that out, but you'll still have only one gear ratio unless you add a front derailleur (which your frame likely doesn't have mounts for, so you'd have to bodge it on). You may also need a different bottom bracket in this case. As in the case of the new wheel, this isn't worth it economically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, though, swapping the rear cog on a single speed is a better choice. The Schwinn ships with a 19t rear cog. If you're willing to work a bit more on the hill, you can swap that out with a 16t or 14t or something. This is quite economical (probably 20 bucks for the cog and a bit for labor at your local bike shop). If you want to do anything to this bike, this is likely the only thing you can do that is economical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end of it is: if the cog swap isn't favorable, get a new bike with gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T16:29:00.510" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T16:29:00.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30554" CreationDate="2015-05-13T14:27:01.437" Score="7" ViewCount="4279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to be able to ride 175 miles (281 km) in a day (to do the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rideacrosswisconsin.com/ride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ride Across Wisconsin&lt;/a&gt;). I used to be able to do about 60 miles (96.5 km), only once hitting 80 miles (128 km), but I'm out of shape now. Wondering how I can systematically train to get to 175 miles at an average of 15 mph (24 km/h) Are there guides out there to help with this?  What's some advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[update] The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rideacrosswisconsin.com/ride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RAW&lt;/a&gt; will happen each year, so my intention isn't to ride this year, rather what do I need to do to ride it in &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; future year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="570" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-13T01:02:12.623" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T01:02:12.623" Title="Training involved to ride 175 miles (281 km) in a day" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30442" CreationDate="2015-05-13T15:23:05.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my daily commute and for moderate sized weekly grocery trips I use two waste baskets, permanently mounted, each with 6 gallon capacity.&#xA;They serve as waterproof hard shells into which I can insert any bags, backpacks, clothes etc, that I want.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2lQ7K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5694" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T15:23:05.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30303" CreationDate="2015-05-13T15:30:06.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest splitting the weight in half and putting it low on your bike for stability.&#xA;Here is my daily commuting configuration (2 matched 6 gallon plastic waste baskets mounted by hose clamps to a standard bike rack.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nwTe0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;) (Your emptied backpack could be rolled up and placed on top if you need it for off-bike use.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5694" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T15:30:06.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30543" CreationDate="2015-05-13T16:36:48.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are out of shape now and the most of have done is 80 miles getting ready for 175 miles ride in 3 months is probably not realistic.  You don't just tune up and ride 175 miles.  175 is up there with elite riders. Elite riders start out elite riders and they are in the saddle 20+ hours a week to stay elite.  Two 40 miles rides during the week and an 80+ mile ride on the weekend and some light rides in between.  160 mile at 15 mph is about 11 hours.  You might scale that back to one 80 and one 40.  You body can easily take two hard rids a week.  If you have a regular job then just fitting in the training hours might be hard.  In WI at least you have lot of daylight hours in the summer.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can ride 80 miles at 15 mph take one day off and come back and ride 40 miles at 15 mph then you could probably gut out 175 miles.  Start with some 40 miles rides and get your speed to 15 mph.  An 80 mile ride at 10 mph is not a good use of training times.  Anything over 80 miles is not a good use of training time - that is 5 hours and you can do it without stop.  Use 15 mph as your base line and see how many miles you can build up to. 15 mph alone will be more like 17-18 in a pack. If you cannot hold with the pack you are toast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T14:52:14.773" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T14:52:14.773" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30543" CreationDate="2015-05-13T18:01:12.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the RAW is long term goal, you are talking about a long term training plan.  You must enjoy it, and you must not burn out - in other words you need to incorporate training as part of a sustainable lifestyle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the weekdays you will need to some training but probably don't have much time, it is an opportunity to do high intensity training, core training, etc., which offer great benefits without draining all your stored resources.  Such training is very satisfying and enjoyable, you will be amazed to feel your strength increase so easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On weekends is where you can concentrate on the long distance aspect, which is absolutely required, but only to the extent it does not burn you out.  If you feel bonked, in pain, or sick, then call it quits for the day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it more fun, I recommend participating in brevets (Randonneurs USA: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rusa.org/&quot;&gt;http://www.rusa.org/&lt;/a&gt;) which have events of various distances 200K, 300K, 400K, 600K, 1000K, and 1200K.  These events are basically self supported, with some volunteer assistance, so they are very economical (low entry fees).  The cutoff times are always lenient, so you have plenty of room to develop your ability at your own pace.  Always a very friendly atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also centuries and double centuries, which are supported events with higher entry fees.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:01:12.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30537" CreationDate="2015-05-13T18:19:44.887" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each kind of grease will perform best at a certain temperature. And is designed for a certain speed of movement of the parts it is used at to reach and not exceed that temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it is worth it to use the special grease for bikes or get an other kind of grease that is designed for the speeds/temperature your parts will get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that when a friend opened the ball bearings of one of the rear wheels of my recumbent trike and showed me dried out grease, which had just never gotten warm enough to spread through the bearing. He replaced it with grease for slow moving ball bearings. From then on the trike did run much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the grease that does not move, there are also different ones. And again designed for different work. For those parts of your bike where you hardly ever want movement, you want grease that does not stick when it gets old. It should not go soapy or sticky because it changed character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T19:02:14.463" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T19:02:14.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-13T21:39:39.640" Score="11" ViewCount="13341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've begun trying to commute to work, which is a 70+ minute ride each way for me.  I find that after about 30 minutes of riding, my toes in both feet begin to go numb.  It's not a cold thing, because it happens in warm weather too.  It's more of a pins-and-needles, limb going to sleep feeling, though it hits all my toes and sometimes a little further into my foot (never really past the ball though).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened with my old flat pedals and several different pairs of shoes.  I recently switched to clipless pedals and shoes and hoped it would stop with the stiffer sole and dedicated contact to the pedal, but no dice.  My cycling shoes are quite comfortable and there is no pain associated with this, just the annoying numbness.  Right now the only way I can fix it is to coast for a while so I can unclip and dangle/shake my foot around to get some feeling back into it.  Unclipping and temporarily pedaling with my heel helps a little, but not much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody else have this problem or know how to alleviate it?  Or am I just stuck with it due to some quirk in my anatomy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11206" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T05:07:52.657" Title="How can I stop my toes from going numb on long rides?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30519" CreationDate="2015-05-14T00:34:32.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power is transferred from you to the pedal, to the crank-arm, to the chain-ring, to the chain, to the rear cog and to the wheel. To do this, the spindle (crank spindle/bottom- bracket spindle) must be held rigidly in place and yet, allow the cranks to turn as friction free as possible. That is the job of the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T00:34:32.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30543" CreationDate="2015-05-14T02:03:09.353" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the &lt;strong&gt;do it this year&lt;/strong&gt; camp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comments you say you can currently ride &lt;em&gt;probably a painful 60&lt;/em&gt; (miles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, a conservative plan is to extend your ride distances by 10% per week. But it's important to realize that marathon and iron man athletes &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; train by running a marathon each week. The aim of their training is to build deep core fitness and endurance, so that on the day they have the resources to push beyond their normal levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have 15 weeks to RAW day. If you start &lt;strong&gt;now&lt;/strong&gt;, with a 30 mile (50 km) ride, and do a 50 mile (80 km) ride at the weekend, you'll be on your way. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/28524/8273&quot;&gt;this answer to a somewhat different question&lt;/a&gt; for the kind of plan to follow. With such a plan, in 7 weeks you could be riding 100 miles (160 km) in one ride on the weekend. Yay! All being well, health and injury wise, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; keep extending the distances, but that would be unwise. I suggest that when you can ride the century, that your long ride should be every &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; week, and as you extend the long ride, reduce the distance of the rides in the next week, to keep the training load constant. Limit the maximum ride to 8 hours in the saddle. At your pace that would be about 120 miles (close to 200 km). That would be about 16-20 hours training per week in the final weeks before you taper over the last two weeks. Oh, and remember to factor in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/20630/8273&quot;&gt;recovery rides&lt;/a&gt; for the day after the long rides, especially when they are longer than about 90 miles (150 km). At that point you would be training 7 to 8 times a fortnight (light weeks and heavy weeks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RAW website is still being built, so everything is not clear yet. It seems likely that this will be a supported ride, but as I write this it doesn't say that. If it is supported, then the ride will be much easier. You can stop for refreshment at each station for just a few minutes (not too long, you don't want to cool down). One thing to work out on your long training rides is what food and drink works for you. Since you are not aiming at extreme performance (15 mph, ~25 kph), you don't need to use fancy / exotic food and drink. You must, however, eat and drink small amounts &lt;em&gt;frequently&lt;/em&gt;, and right from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is your bike and other gear. Does it need maintenance? Can it carry two drink bottles? Are you practiced with tire repairs? Do you have a variety of cycling garments, especially a lightweight rain top? The latter is valuable as a windproof top, eg if the morning start is cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T03:21:20.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30534" CreationDate="2015-05-14T03:17:18.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, that bike is more than adequate for that type of riding.  The only thing you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; consider tailoring for your riding styles would be the tires.  The trail you posted looks pretty smooth.  If you got into some trails that were looser or rocky then you could go with something more knobby and/or higher volume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say just ride the bike and enjoy the trails.  If you haven't already, figure out how to dial in your suspension and you should get tons of great riding out of that bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18992" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T03:17:18.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30558" CreationDate="2015-05-14T09:54:04.027" Score="3" ViewCount="13755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding for a couple weeks after years of not sitting on bike in order to strengthen my health. I've been commuting to my work and school (12km/7.45 miles from my home) about three days a week and then resting/waiting (because of seasonal rains in my area). About three weeks ago I've started to feel ache in my right forearm in area highlighted in picture and it continues to ache for a couple more days when I lift something heavy or twist my hand or sometimes even without cause. After about ten days it has gone, but when I got on bike three days ago again, it has started again. Sometimes I also feel numbness or cramps in fingers in my right hand, but when I take off my hand of bike and stretch my fingers for a couple of seconds, it will go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions what could be the cause of the forearm pain? I will see my local orthopedist in a week, but I don't trust him much as he is pretty lazy to even properly diagnose something. The only thing that has crossed my mind is that my handlebar is too low for me.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BdYZB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BdYZB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;aching forearm&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-03-16T11:52:15.480" Title="Forearm pain during and after cycling" Tags="&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30560" CreationDate="2015-05-14T09:57:59.460" Score="2" ViewCount="12202" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be more specific, my bike come with Shimano Sora 9 speed group set. I'm using a KMC X9 9 speed chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I studied quite a lot of websites. They claim that chainrings are compatible with any speed of cassettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there compatibility problem with existing components if I put on Shimano 105 11 speed chainrings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18867" LastActivityDate="2020-11-18T20:28:29.470" Title="Can I use 11 speed chainrings with 9 speed chain?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30556" CreationDate="2015-05-14T11:14:30.993" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple possible causes for this kind of pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you should see a medical person in case something more serious is going on than our amateur diagnosis suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, this is a kind of &lt;em&gt;overuse&lt;/em&gt; injury. This can have different causes (and each would have slightly different symptoms). Part of the reason is that you've taken a break and those muscles are just not as strong as they used to be. Common causes are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The most common cause is your seat too high relative to the handlebars, leading you to put more weight on your forearms. This would be more common for mountain bikes and flat-bars, and seems more likely given the posted diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another cause to gripping too tightly. You could be gripping the handlebars too tightly, or trying to do too many jumps, etc. This can also be due to repeated hard braking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could be overstretching the tendons / muscles, by riding with your wrists low so that your hands are higher than your wrists, or with your wrists bent to the side so that each wrist is bent inwards or outwards. This is more likely on a road bike if you ride with your hands &quot;on the corners&quot; a lot. Or &lt;em&gt;perhaps&lt;/em&gt; if the handlebars are too narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even stranger, it can be caused by pushing too hard on indexed gear levers. You would probably know if your enthusiastic gear changes were causing it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the solution to this kind of problem is suggested by the diagnosis but requires some experimentation because the the result of a change can be hard to predict. Everything is interconnected, so changing one thing without full understanding can have unintended consequences. If you make changes yourself then be vigilant for other issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the bike to your LBS to get them to check your position is recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T00:54:16.043" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T00:54:16.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2015-05-14T12:19:01.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own two Treks, an X Caliber (great hardtail that starts around $650 range) and a full suspension Trek Remedy 29 9 (phenomenal bike, but is 5gs) I weighed 321lbs when I started riding again, and now am about 255lbs. Both bikes have had no problems whatsoever with my weight. The Treks have a 300lb weight limit listed, but I believe that is well under what they can really handle. Plus, they just make great bikes. I do think the 29 wheels are better for riders as well, but not posite on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19417" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T12:19:01.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30557" CreationDate="2015-05-14T13:27:12.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, so long as the front derailleur is wide enough to carry a 9 speed chain that you're using (so a 9 speed front derailleur would work) without problems, you'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, go for it, provided they'll fit (i.e. the bolt pattern + BCD matches). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for mismatching the chainrings, chances are these are the cheapest ones on the market now. My road bike, for example, runs a Shimano 105SC groupset (7 speed) and I'm going to have to replace the chain rings with things that are &quot;10/11 speed&quot; eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T13:27:12.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30556" CreationDate="2015-05-14T13:53:09.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get something similar from high-seat / low handlebars.&#xA;It seems to be pressure and circulation / nerve related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy fix was to get some of these large surface area bike grips &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004P8FN28&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Ergon-Biokork-Bicycle-Handlebar-Grip/dp/B004P8FN28&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also- if you're wearing a backpack, this will add a bunch of extra force on your hands. So keep the bag light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15855" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T13:53:09.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30536" CreationDate="2015-05-14T14:09:10.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would change it if it starts scraping,and the braking force got pretty much lowered ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17257" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T14:09:10.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-14T15:19:48.600" Score="1" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wore cycling shorts for the first time since purchasing my Ridley Liz and I found that my right calf was catching on my derailleur to such an extent that I ended up with no skin left on my leg.  Is there anything I can do about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19492" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T18:33:51.623" Title="My calf catches my derailleur when I pedal" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2015-05-14T15:45:58.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the same kind of weight range, and also usually carry a fair bit of stuff around (books, laptop for daily commuting, shopping, occasionally a 25kg sack of concrete for some garden work..., two heavy locks), so I'd say 130 or 140kg is a fairly normal load for my bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much of it depends of course on what kind of cycling you do. I don't do sports-type cycling, it's all utility, in total about 50-80 km per week. Roads here are full of potholes, cracks and craters, it is also not very flat, so downhills I can go well above 30km/h (20mph). So I think it gets a fair bit of stress, although not as extreme as offroad/mountain biking or long club rides etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current bike is a commuter hybrid, in around £600 range (not including extras like lights, rack, mudguards etc), aluminium MTB frame. Had it for more than three years now and no sign of any trouble. The bike I had before was decades old, no real trouble either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advice I found was mainly get solid wheels with wide tyres (mine are 44-622); wheels designed for MTB should handle much heavier riders on normal usage. You don't have to worry much about the frame and other components. Keep the tyre pressure up, and while you check pressure and tyre damage, also have a look at the wheel (broken spokes, cracks in the rim, is the wheel true?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can second the advice not to get full suspension. I sometimes used hire bikes with full suspension and that felt more like riding a horse than a bike. But I do have front fork suspension and that works just fine, in fact I think it is quite beneficial when I hit one of our potholes. I also installed a seatpost with suspension, although I'm not sure this does much at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T15:45:58.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29231" CreationDate="2015-05-14T16:23:51.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First note that if you get full movement in your rear gear shift you will probably have all the range you need. I think this would be &lt;strong&gt;EASIER&lt;/strong&gt; than working on front derailleur. SO I recommend working on your Secondary Problem first! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Allow plenty of time for fiddling with your gears. Do it in a warm dry place when you have time so you can learn how things work in a relaxed manner. The less work you have to do the better! :-) Take it step-by-step. Adjusting loads of things in one go without having done it before could leave you with gears not working at all!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Main Problem&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Three sensible things and one that is not for the faint-hearted: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CLEAN and OIL the front derailleur.&lt;/strong&gt; Does the front derailleur itself move up and down (in and out) if you push and pull it with your hand (or you might need to use foot!)? It should move babck itself pulled by the spring. Clean the derailleur - it can get clogged with dirt - and oil it after cleaning. &lt;strong&gt;Because your cable moves but your derailleur doesn't this is the first thing to do.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CLEAN and OIL the cable&lt;/strong&gt; Does gear cable move freely and pull on the derailleur properly? If you pull on the cable strongly with your (gloved) hand does the derailleur move up and down? Rust or dirt in cable might cause it to get stuck. Clear out cable with oil and take it off bike and lots of manual movement. Replace the cable if it is rusty or damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the &lt;strong&gt;limit screws on front derailleur&lt;/strong&gt;. The small screws H-stop and L-stop. One is top limit, the other is the bottom limit. They prevent the chain jumping beyond the rings and getting stuck - which is bad.&#xA;NOTE: Lowest gear is small cog on front, large cog on rear. &#xA;NOTE: Highest gear is large cog on front, small cog on rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn your bike upside-down or put on stand or lift where you can freely pedal and also operate the gear lever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: You can do L-stop or H-stop in whichever order you prefer. It doesn't really matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move gear lever to lowest setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedal(gently) and adjust L screw until chain moves onto lowest gear (smallest cog)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedal(gently) and check you can click up and down from lowest into next gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move gear lever to highest setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedal(gently) and adjust H screw until chain moves onto highest gear (biggest cog)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedal(gently) and check you can click up and down from highest into next gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SECOND-LAST STEP: pedal(gently) and move to highest and lowest gear. You may have to adjust the stops again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FINALLY: pedal(gently) and click all the way up and down through the gears.  If something is not right then you can repeat the process from start - you will soon get a better feeling for when the stop is adjusted correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Properly-Adjust-The-Front-Derailleur-On-You/step3/Front-Derailleur-Limit-Screw-Settings/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Properly-Adjust-The-Front-Derailleur-On-You/step3/Front-Derailleur-Limit-Screw-Settings/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Probably better NOT do this!) It is possible that the front derailleur attachment to frame is not right. Maybe it got knocked. You could unscrew and adjust height on frame or angle. BUT it is VERY tricky to get things working again if you move it! The attachment is usually very tight and not prone to being knocked into the wrong angle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note it is tricky to get the limit screws adjusted properly. But learn how to do it and it's very useful and will save you time with any bike you own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secondary Problem&lt;/strong&gt; Which I think is both EASIER to improve and will give you more BENEFIT.&#xA;Similar three things (1. 2. and 4.): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CLEAN and OIL the rear derailleur.&lt;/strong&gt; Springs, moving parts, screws and cogs. This will help loosen things up and gear cable will be able to pull better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Check movement of rear derailleur&lt;/strong&gt;. Move the derailleur in and out using your hand or foot. Does it line up with gear cogs correctly? The rear derailleur is prone to getting a bit bent or twisted. Some brute force can help (of course applied in the right place in a gentle mechanically sympathetic way!).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CLEAN and OIL the cable&lt;/strong&gt; As in main problem. I think your rear gear cable is moving okay though.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the &lt;strong&gt;limit screws on rear derailleur&lt;/strong&gt;. Small screws H and L again and another indexing adjustment screw. &lt;strong&gt;THIS is probably what will actually solve your problem!&lt;/strong&gt;. &#xA;NOTE: Lowest gear is small cog on front, large cog on rear. &#xA;NOTE: Highest gear is large cog on front, small cog on rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;turn your bike upside-down or put on stand or lift where you can freely pedal and also operate the gear lever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move gear lever to lowest setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedal(gently) and adjust L screw until chain moves onto lowest gear (biggest cog)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedal(gently) and check you can click up and down from lowest into next gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move gear lever to highest setting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedal(gently) and adjust H screw until chain moves onto highest gear (smallest cog)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pedal(gently) and check you can click up and down from highest into next gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SECOND-LAST STEP: pedal(gently) and move to highest and lowest gear. You may have to adjust the stops again.&#xA;You can repeat the process from start - you will soon get a better feeling for when the stop is adjusted correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FINALLY: pedal(gently) and click all the way up and down through the gears. If chain is not happy to stay on cog for some gears then adjust the indexing screw.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T16:23:51.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21737" CreationDate="2015-05-14T17:03:27.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;[edit: with a few more years of experience . . ] It is likely if you have new chain and an old rear cassette which is worn then that is the problem. A new cassette will match teeth on new chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the problem could also be with your new chain length or rear derailleur. Happily not expensive just can be a bit tricky to fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three things to check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;New chain is the right length? The new chain should have the same number of links as the old chain. Did you line up old and new chain (allowing for wear so the line-up will be asymmetrical!) and put on new chain with the same number of links? I used this recently: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclinglife.com/HowTo/ChangeAChain.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclinglife.com/HowTo/ChangeAChain.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The old chain will be &quot;stretched&quot; so will not line up exactly with new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;OFTEN rear derailleur can get a bit twisted or bent. You were riding in the forest and chain snapped. Might you have bumped something? :-) Especially your rear derailleur is exposed to bashing off things when mountain-biking. Check does your rear derailleur cog line up correctly with your rear cogs? Applying some gentle brute force in the right place on the rear derailleur can help. This is very good: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check something in your drive chain. A few years ago I had a bike where I got a notch in my front derailleur which chewed and snapped chains! So check front and back drive-train. Is your back wheel aligned correctly also?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11439" LastEditorUserId="11439" LastEditDate="2020-06-04T14:44:40.483" LastActivityDate="2020-06-04T14:44:40.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30563" CreationDate="2015-05-14T17:42:23.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're bike is properly assembled, and fitted, then your problems rest not in the bike, but likely in your foot position and your pedal stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I would have your bike fit assessed to determine if you're riding the right sized bike, and that the saddle is properly adjusted. If the bike is properly fitted, then you need to change the position of your foot on your pedal and how you execute your powerstroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One simple solution may be to switch to clipless pedals if you're not already using them. This will somewhat force you to place your feet on the pedals properly. Other than that what you need is physical training to train your legs to execute a proper stroke. Unless you simply have very large calves, it's likely that you have an improper balance of strength in the vastus muscles of your quad. You need to consciously train your leg not to come within proximity of your derailleur until your weaker muscles get stronger and you develop some muscle memory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the reality is that you simply have large calves, then your only solution may be to remove the front derailleur and upgrade your bike to a 1x11 speed. until then, you can try wearing compression sleeves or socks to protect your skin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T17:42:23.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-14T18:53:44.360" Score="0" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;What could be causing this? Tires are about 200 miles old. Used almost exclusively on smooth, cleaned asphalt. Sometimes gravel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - is the tire still safe? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYzKO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T06:20:34.360" Title="Cord showing near bead" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30569" CreationDate="2015-05-14T18:58:59.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that your brakes are misaligned &amp;amp; are rubbing on the tire.&#xA;The brake pad should be centered on the rim braking surface, look closely &amp;amp; you will likely see that the pad contacts the tire when the lever is pulled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only does the pad touching the tire wear out the sidewall, but it also generates heat which damages the tire &amp;amp; inner tube which could cause a catastrophic blowout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would fix the brakes &amp;amp; then immediately replace the the tire(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T18:58:59.173" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30569" CreationDate="2015-05-14T19:51:52.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check to make sure there's no movement in the brake or pads under real life braking conditions.  If something is loose, the brake will pivot around where it's mounted on the fork crown causing the pads to move upward under harsh braking conditions. Such a problem might not be apparent when if you are just looking at the problem on the repair stand. Put some chalk around the wall of the tire to see where it is rubbing off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T19:51:52.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8512" CreationDate="2015-05-14T21:56:04.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried all of the above with no luck. Other articles mentioned a blow torch to heat it up. My flame thrower is at the shop, but I did have some sterno.... two minutes later my pedal was free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sterno is a brand of jellied, denatured alcohol sold in a can and meant to be burned directly in the can.  More info at &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sterno&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sterno&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19495" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-10-19T03:26:10.597" LastActivityDate="2020-10-19T03:26:10.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-15T01:31:39.237" Score="2" ViewCount="844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride road and MTB, but want to add a cyclocross bike and do long distance, all day adventures which would include 50/50 (road/off-road).  I am not interested in racing, but do want to participate in events, etc.  My question: What are the best tires to run on a CX bike under these circumstances?  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19499" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T16:33:10.167" Title="Cyclocross Bike On the Road" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30574" CreationDate="2015-05-15T04:30:56.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that slick tires can lead to unpleasant surprises on loose surfaces, such as a thin layer of gravel on top of hardpack.  So I'd recommend a cyclocross tire with a decent tread pattern (a bit like a mtn bike tire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have Clement Crusader PDX tires on my cyclocross bike.  I liked them because they were 37mm wide, even though they are labelled 33mm. The extra width doesn't slow you down, but it makes the ride more comfortable, plus it works better on loose gravel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days I ride that bike mostly on the road, so I've switched to 35mm Schwalbe Kojak tires for now. If I'm riding entirely on asphalt, then there's no point in having knobby tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T04:30:56.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30574" CreationDate="2015-05-15T05:32:13.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've ridden many different tires on my cyclocross bike, and I've found that a 32 mm is the comfortable on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most fun I've had though is on 40mm Clements, especially if there's any off road involved, if you can fit them on your cross bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/clement-xplor-mso-60-tpi-adventure-tire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/clement-xplor-mso-60-tpi-adventure-tire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T05:32:13.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30578" CreationDate="2015-05-15T06:46:46.727" Score="6" ViewCount="14940" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that head tube angle affect steering, but does seat tube angle affect maneuvering somehow? As long as I compare a few models, they are between 72 and 74 degrees, and greater the frame smaller seat tube angle. So I guess difference by a few degrees doesn't have considerable effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here're the comparisons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikegeometry.com/?brand1=Specialized&amp;amp;model1=S-WORKS%20TARMAC%20DI2%20DISC&amp;amp;size1=61&amp;amp;brand2=Specialized&amp;amp;model2=S-WORKS%20TARMAC%20DI2%20DISC&amp;amp;size2=58&amp;amp;brand3=Specialized&amp;amp;model3=S-WORKS%20TARMAC%20DI2%20DISC&amp;amp;size3=56&amp;amp;brand4=Specialized&amp;amp;model4=S-WORKS%20TARMAC%20DI2%20DISC&amp;amp;size4=54&amp;amp;brand5=Specialized&amp;amp;model5=S-WORKS%20TARMAC%20DI2%20DISC&amp;amp;size5=52&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Specialized geometry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikegeometry.com/?brand1=Trek&amp;amp;model1=Madone%207.9%20H1&amp;amp;size1=54&amp;amp;brand2=Trek&amp;amp;model2=Madone%207.9%20H1&amp;amp;size2=56&amp;amp;brand3=Trek&amp;amp;model3=Madone%207.9%20H1&amp;amp;size3=58&amp;amp;brand4=Trek&amp;amp;model4=Madone%207.9%20H1&amp;amp;size4=60&amp;amp;brand5=Trek&amp;amp;model5=Madone%207.9%20H1&amp;amp;size5=62&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek geometry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19485" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T12:24:16.167" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T18:13:26.247" Title="What effect does seat tube angle have?" Tags="&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30577" CreationDate="2015-05-15T08:45:58.927" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for sheer maneuverability, seat tube angle may in some (rather extreme) cases affect wheelbase, which affects stability at variety of speeds. Also seat tube angle will have some minor effect on the position of rider's centre of gravity making it slightly easier to descend with smaller seat tube angle... I guess it would be an unnoticeable difference though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But main aim of angled seat tube is above all to make pedalling more correct in a biomechanical way, thus more efficient..... and making it possible for a rider to reach the ground while still being on the saddle, say when they're stopping. For the right distribution of stresses within your joints you need an angle adjusted to your body - people with longer thighs will need smaller angle. In general too low angle encourages lower cadence and more forceful pedalling which isn't very good for your joints. What's interesting is that it doesn't work the other way round - it's possible to ride relatively safely with very high angles - it's usually 78-80 degrees for TT bikes. (I meant to put an article titled &quot;Myth of K.O.P.S&quot; for Sheldon Brown website, but the link doesn't seem to work)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the link to Sheldon's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/kops.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Myth of K. O. P. S. (knee over pedal spindle)&lt;/a&gt; article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seat tube angle can be quite well made up for with fore-aft saddle position, so 2 degrees in difference can be easily neutralised. And the differences in angles between sizes may come from various sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it could be forced by the design, for example to avoid some weird top tube length or too short distance from the crank to front wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it may also be a form of adjusting the geometry to body proportions of riders of different sizes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or it could be done to lower the centre of gravity for a large rider, that for large sizes is pretty high anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or it could be a mix of the above, we should ask the designers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T04:12:55.637" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T04:12:55.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30574" CreationDate="2015-05-15T10:49:50.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to compromise. &#xA;On road you want smooth and off road you want tread.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On road touring or road tires.  Anywhere from a 700 X 32 - 700 X 38.&#xA;You get low rolling resistance and good traction on the road.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off road you want some tread.  Anywhere from a 700 X 34 - 700 X 38.&#xA;A small block will give you some traction but still do OK on the road. &#xA;As mentioned by hillsons - the Clements.&#xA;For sure you don't want wide spaces knobs as they are poor on the road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Durability is a big factor for me.  A CX tire is just not going to last as long as a touring tire.  A CX tire is not going to be as puncture resistant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me I take a touring tire for road performance and durability. A knob has poor wet road performance and if weather turns bad I just want to get home.  If it was serious off road I would take my mountain bike. On gravel and hard pack I just don't ride aggressive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are riding 20 miles to get to some cool trails then go with a CX tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 50/50 you have to decide which 50 is more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for a CX bike that will take larger tires.  You still have option to run smaller tires.  Also look at gravel bikes.  And don't rule out a light touring bike - do you want a rack for  your all day adventure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T11:10:13.757" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T11:10:13.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17513" CreationDate="2015-05-15T12:45:39.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They just take a bit of tugging to &quot;click&quot; into place.  I had to put a foot on the pedal and then pull the chain with both hands to get it to lock in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19508" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T12:45:39.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30574" CreationDate="2015-05-15T14:49:03.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clement X'PLOR USH 35mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clement X'PLOR MSO 40mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Surly Knard 41mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own Clement X'PLOR USH 35mm tires and Surly Knard 41mm tires.&#xA;USH tires are faster than Knards, they are pretty good on gravel but not as good as Knards. &#xA;On the other hand, Knards are really good on the gravel, even on MTB sigletracks. However, Knards have bigger rolling resistance on the pavement so expect it's slower than USH.&#xA;If you think you'll ride on the pavement more, choose Clement X'PLOR USH. Otherwise, choose Knards or Clement X'PLOR MSO. I haven't tried MSO yet but people generally say that MSO has similar performance to Knards on the gravel but faster on the pavement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T14:49:03.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30827" CreationDate="2015-05-15T16:25:06.820" Score="6" ViewCount="3111" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to go from point A to point B avoiding climbs, but also take the shortest route possible with the fewest climbs.  Does any mobile app exist that can find the shortest route and with the lowest sum-total amount of elevation change between two places?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19483" LastEditorUserId="6796" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T19:12:55.430" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T23:05:57.490" Title="App to find the shortest route with the least amount of climbs?" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-15T16:46:26.053" Score="2" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received the Retrospec Speck 20&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a 69 y.o. 5'8, 160 lb woman and thought this simple bike would be easy to ride (single gear with rear pedal backward brake). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not ride it because the handle bar had me going 1 to 3 ft left or right despite my efforts to keep it straight. A friend, who doesn't like these bikes in general) thinks the straight handle bar is a big part of the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of returning it but it is easy for me to fold &amp;amp; keep in my trunk (my last bike was stolen from our buildings bike room). Would you know if the handle bar can be changed on this bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a front brake can be added and would do that as well. Thanks for any advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Stock image of this bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kSb2k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kSb2k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19512" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T08:28:09.257" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T08:28:09.257" Title="Steering Retrospec Speck 20&quot;" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30584" CreationDate="2015-05-15T18:21:52.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the Retrospec website, the page for this bike states that the handlebar clamp has a diameter of 22.2mm.  It seems that there are some handlebars of that diameter available, for example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004JKEYUO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JKEYUO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not sure what kind/shape/size of handlebars would make this bike easier to handle for you.  I'm guessing the handling is currently a bit twitchy because of the short handlebars ?  So maybe longer handlebars would make things better.  Perhaps you should measure the width of the current handlebars and then look for something that is significantly wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle, it's very simple to replace the handlebars.  You would have to remove one of the grips, and loosen the clamp bolt in the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T18:21:52.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-15T18:26:26.987" Score="4" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike was vandalized and the top tube is completely bust, is it possible to get this repaired/replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yoSXP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;any advice here would be great, thanks a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19513" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T01:39:34.013" Title="Vandalized top tube" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30583" CreationDate="2015-05-15T18:27:47.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google maps has a bike route feature that displays elevation and tries to find the least-steep and most bike-friendly path between points by default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to Google Maps at &lt;a href=&quot;http://maps.google.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://maps.google.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select Directions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type your starting address.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type your destination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Click &quot;...&quot; to the left of the Directions icon, then click the bicycling icon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Customize the route by dragging the blue line (your bike route) wherever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6796" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T18:27:47.990" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30590" CreationDate="2015-05-15T19:56:09.017" Score="5" ViewCount="2815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I became  pretty obsessed with my MTB maintenance. After every trip, I completely remove the chain and wash it. &#xA;I am wondering if you can damage the missing (and weakest) link of the bike by doing that this often. &#xA;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14620" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T20:25:07.863" Title="Can you remove the chain missing link too often?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30588" CreationDate="2015-05-15T20:25:01.743" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most sorts of reusable link generally have a &quot;snap in&quot; position that the link pops into when you pull on the chain.  Between normal chain tension and design, the link should stay in that position.  However, with repeated use, you can wear the portion of the link that is tight enough to keep the link in the running/together position.  This means the link may become easier to get off, but will also be susceptible to coming uncoupled when the chain has less tension on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your individual mileage on a quick link may vary, but generally they are much less expensive than a whole new chain and the reduced cost (to you) by keeping your drivetrain clean will likely be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T20:25:01.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30588" CreationDate="2015-05-15T20:25:07.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using the same missing link on a KMC x10sl for 3 years. I may have opened it around 40-50 times. No problem. Note that I use the proper tool to open it (KMC Missing Link Chain Pliers):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5xFuc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T20:25:07.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30586" CreationDate="2015-05-15T21:40:36.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all - that sucks - sorry that happened.&#xA;Your frame cannot be repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are in a real rough spot as the components are nice enough to reuse, but finding a frame in that style is going to be hard. Bicycle models that allow you to buy only the frame are high end models, and there aren't any high end city bikes. You don't want a mountain bike frame as they are designed for suspension length forks. Hopefully you can find a city (flat bar road) frame, but in absence of that, a road frame should work. If you can find a frame for less than $200 then give it a try. If you cannot swap out components yourself and have to pay a bike shop then it may be totaled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it to a Giant dealer and ask them how much it costs to replace the frame. This price may be close to the cost of the bike.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="4275" LastEditDate="2015-05-16T01:39:34.013" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T01:39:34.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30574" CreationDate="2015-05-16T04:42:50.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best tires I've ever used for linking up dirt and road in the same ride are Avocet Cross II's. They had a &quot;negative&quot; tread. (i.e. grooves in a mostly slick tire.) Unfortunately, they are no longer made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wghVy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Avocet Cross II tread&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lot's of choices for this kind of tire for &quot;gravel grinder&quot; riding, if you ever run across anything that looks like the Avocet, buy it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Panaracer Pasala's are usually cheap and generally work well. For the most part you need much less tread than you would think at first, but you do need some tread. For most dirt road surfaces, the size of the tire is more important than the tread. 32mm or larger tires really help. The only place tread is really required is when you have loose material over a harder surface. If you have only hard packed dirt, (very common in the SF Bay Area), you can get away with a traditional road slick, although a fatter tire will provide a more comfortable ride on the dirt sections.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you want a tire that has a solid a central ridge as possible and some tread towards the shoulder of the tire. A negative design works well because you can &quot;tune&quot; the amount of tread by changing the inflation pressure of the tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would avoid knobby cross tires that look like skinny MTB tires. They add a lot of rolling resistance on the road and can be squirrelly on hard surfaces. They are meant for&#xA;riding in mud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T04:42:50.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30603" CreationDate="2015-05-16T14:59:34.430" Score="13" ViewCount="3047" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dwjn0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Photo of glow-in-the-dark duck tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I be able to use glow-in-the-dark duct tape to help illuminate a bike at night? I already ride with forward and rear lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastEditorUserId="2554" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T08:45:41.047" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T17:23:45.807" Title="I got glow-in-the-dark tape. Where do I place it?" Tags="&lt;night-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-16T15:50:45.430" Score="0" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Marin small steel frame MTB circa 1997. Is it possible to upgrade to today's parts such as 10 speed derailleurs and shifters. I'm pretty sure disk brakes are out of the question. If so any suggestions on where to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19520" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T18:37:59.253" Title="Marin MTB eldridge Grade" Tags="&lt;upgrade-or-new-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30595" CreationDate="2015-05-16T16:44:08.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would put reflective tape round the frame and the handle bar, in such positions that it can be seen by oncoming traffic and traffic from the side, (like the middle part of the handle bar and/or the head tube, the down tube and if you have a lot also on the seat tube, and if you can find a spot, also on the back of our bike, if you have fenders that come down enough on them otherwise just under the seat might work. And on all bags you have on the bike, any location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glow in the dark tape might have a fun effect, not going to add to your safety but you can use it in the same spots when you want the fun of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike has reflectors all around and on the tires, and still I would add more if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T17:23:45.807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T17:23:45.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30595" CreationDate="2015-05-16T17:50:05.703" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reflective tape works well on the sides of your bike where you might not have lights. On the side of the forks helps people to see you coming out of an intersection. I've also seen it wrapped around two spokes. the movement helps catch peoples attention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T17:50:05.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-16T18:26:00.667" Score="2" ViewCount="2526" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of getting (investing in) a road bike for my 11 mile commute (total 22 miles each day).  I want to continue wearing normal work clothes - meaning hiking pants and a T-Shirt.  I plan on using the Spiderflex seat (taken from my Mountain Bike) on a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5m8kZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5m8kZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Spiderflex eliminates any seat pain, and there is no chafing, ever.&#xA;Can this be done? Does anyone do something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19523" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T02:26:25.893" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T05:31:09.390" Title="Can I use a road bike for commuting 11 miles each way without SPANDEX" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30600" CreationDate="2015-05-16T18:59:58.570" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, absolutely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clothing is mostly an issue of personal preference.  Performance fabrics and things like spandex don't make that much difference for short stretches, and their advantages become more pronounced and valuable the longer you ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11 miles is somewhat of an intermediate distance; in regular clothes you'd be totally fine, assuming that the weather and the road conditions won't make your work clothes sweaty or dirty by the time you get there.   For commuting to work, I'd make the decision more on the basis of road conditions and comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19524" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T18:59:58.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30676" CreationDate="2015-05-16T19:02:48.750" Score="2" ViewCount="8259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to solve the neverending issue of my derailleur shifting on its own by replacing the shifter's cable and its sheath to see if it not sliding properly could be the cause of the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing so I realized that both derailleurs' cables run beneath the bottom bracket in two rails, without any sheath wrapping them. In this picture, I removed the front cable (that was running in the left rail) while the rear derailleur cable is in place on the right rail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xPWI3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;derailleurs cable rails beneath the bottom bracket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(yes I know the frame is very dirt, I just noticed. Never checked this thoughtfully down there).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if this could be the issue of the friction, before installing the new stuff back. I noticed that that piece where the cables run into, can be replaced (though I don't know what to search for. By the way has that component a name?).&#xA;I am wondering this because the bicycle is quite old (it's a 2001 bike) and perhaps that has been superseded, and, most importantly, because I feel like &lt;em&gt;I cannot lubricate those rails where a lot of friction must happen&lt;/em&gt;, because, being those so exposed, the grease down there would catch any kind of dirt and mud and probably make things worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe it's just fine as it is, with no lubrication at all, and I am totally seeking for the issue in the wrong spot. &#xA;Any clarifications about that piece of gear would be immensely appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14620" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T03:50:51.697" Title="Shifter cable running beneath the bottom bracket without a sheath" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30595" CreationDate="2015-05-16T19:22:31.397" Score="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't want glow-in-the-dark tape -- it's only useful if you store your bike in a dark shed and need to find it. The amount of &quot;glow&quot; is such that it's only visible in pitch darkness -- and that's for only a few hours after it has been exposed to bright light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want is called &quot;retroreflective tape&quot; -- it reflects light back in the same direction regardless of the angle of incidence. It essentially turns your whole bike into a bike reflector. You can also buy it in adhesive rolls. Go wild with it, put it on anything and everything on your bike -- especially things that move as the eye is more sensitive to motion. The side of the bike is particularly important since we tend to have front and rear lights, but little on the side except wheel reflectors (which often fall off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is some retroreflective tape that I put on the rear fender and seat stays of my commuter (I have more retro tape on the sides and front that aren't visible in this photo). Left is under normal light, right is with my camera flash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BUKb7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pMKjx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photos by me, released to public domain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T21:07:04.733" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T21:07:04.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10883" CreationDate="2015-05-16T19:50:07.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding 5 km each direction I mostly see one or two recumbent bikes or trikes each ride, at least 8 different regulars, which one I will see depends on my timing, on top of that comes my own, which I always see as I ride it every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few velomobiles in the area and I see one every once in a while, he seems to be using his daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That might seem much for most of you. But I see between 30 and 60 bikes on a normal commute, more in summer when many tourists do the long distance route which runs on part of my normal commute. (I live in the Netherlands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the costs? I had a new trike for less than €1000 about 9 years back and a second hand bike for €200 4 years back. I have spend a bit on either one, but on average less per year than one time car maintenance costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it is because recumbent bike and trikes are less well known and not the normal option for most people. Even my friends do not want to try out my bike/trike, or when they do 'just for fun.' &#xA;But I see more 'bents now than when I first started riding one. &#xA;(I am female and was over 40 when I got my trike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why not more people try:&#xA;Misguided ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone was claiming getting more wet on the 'bent. Wrong. Your upper body and legs get as wet, if in a different order. Depending on the quality of your rain gear, there is more front of body potentially getting wet when water does not run of properly, but your back is much better protected.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your legs get wet all over at once, rather than the dripping down and soaking along that wet trousers on an upright do. I guess racing position on a diamond frame protects the front of the legs a bit, on a longer wet ride they will still get soaked.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The main advantage for a 'bent rider is that your feet do not get wet much or even at all.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No run off from the legs at all.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your toes point upward, encouraging the rain to run off, not in and also not soaking into all those small nooks and crannies that shoes seem to have. And there is no way water splashing up from the street reaches you feet if you have a mid level or high 'bent. Even on a low racer the feet are quite well away from the splashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hard to ride?&#xA;Changing from an upright to a 'bent trike did take about one minute to adjust. Changing from the 'bent trike to the 'bent bike took about half an hour, as the trike did not react at all on balance and had slow steering, the bike reacts very fast both on balance and on steering.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;People used to fast reacting sit-up bikes have less problems adjusting.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mostly it is not harder than adjusting to a new kind of sit-up or race position bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the most forgotten advantage.&#xA;The seat options are so different that you will not have pain problems from them, even when you always suffer on a bike. And there are so many options that even when one does not suit you, there is bound to be an other one that does suit you or allows you to use it with adjustments.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also the different seat positions all allow you not to put any weight on your arms, which is a big pro for those who suffer from sore hands and arms while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2016-12-25T15:13:31.863" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T15:13:31.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-16T19:54:54.017" Score="1" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a spiderflex seat on my mountain bike, and I would like to use this on a road bike.  Has anyone ever done this, or something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am 5'10&quot; and 165 lbs (reasonably fit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, I know the 'the saddle horn is used for steering.....'  - but the spiderflex on my MTB annihilates chafing and discomfort. And I do about 20 miles a day on the spiderflex with ZERO - absolute ZERO pain or chafing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I will forfeit cornering and maneuverability without a horn.  Has anyone ever used such a seat successfully on a ROAD BIKE?&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19523" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T18:34:08.620" Title="Has anyone ever used the Spiderflex seat on a roadbike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2015-05-16T21:17:07.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue with mine even after lubing it with Triflow. Here's the form to send your lock back because it really shouldn't stop working in less than a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://kryptonite.zendesk.com/anonymous_requests/new&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://kryptonite.zendesk.com/anonymous_requests/new&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11497" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T21:17:07.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30595" CreationDate="2015-05-16T21:19:01.800" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend putting it partly around each wheel - so as it rotates it creates a flashing movement. Elsewhere, bars and front &amp;amp;rear triangles maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T21:19:01.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30609" CreationDate="2015-05-16T21:22:09.230" Score="0" ViewCount="2051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a set of fairly wide road tyres (32c) on my charge plug. I'm looking to move to 23c. My current rim (inside) width is 22mm I've heard of some dangers of narrow tyres on wide rims, but no one has been specific or had any hard evidence of problems. Has anyone heard of any problems or had any troubles? As far as I can think, logically there shouldn't be any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17293" LastEditorUserId="17293" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T11:47:33.683" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T11:47:33.683" Title="wide rims/narrow tyres danger?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30608" CreationDate="2015-05-16T23:20:14.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown tire width chart&lt;/a&gt;,  you can see that there's only 1 width listed where 23 and 32 are recommended. On that page, he says using too narrow a tire can result in pinch flats and rim damage. If you think about the extreme case, where the width of the rim is almost as wide as the tire flattened out, then you wouldn't have much cushion between the rim and the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your reason for wanting to go with such a narrow tire? Wider tires are more comfortable and offend have less rolling resistance. the advantages of narrow tires are lighter weight, and more aerodynamic. however, the aerodynamics only matter at very high speeds, and a good quality 32 mm tire won't be that much heavier than a 23mm one. If you want to go a little narrower, you should probably try 28 or 25 at a minimum. A lot of racers are using 25 mm tires now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T23:20:14.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29512" CreationDate="2015-05-17T00:42:46.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, if you were to roll the shroud back, remove the cable, squeeze the lever all the way, and then look, you would see that, with the lever squeezed, there is a sort of hole in the lever arm exposed where the barrel-shaped cable end fits.  You need several inches of slack in the cable to get it into/out of that hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On re-reading the question:&lt;/strong&gt; It sounds as if your complaint may be that the ferrule on the end of the cable &lt;strong&gt;housing&lt;/strong&gt; has slipped out of the hole on the end of the brake lever assembly (vs the cable inside coming loose from the moving lever).  If this is the case, that housing is held in place by &quot;habit&quot; -- there's no crimp or anything that holds it there, &lt;strong&gt;except that&lt;/strong&gt; tension from the brake cable keeps it in place.  If the tension is gone, either because the cable has been loosened at the other end, or because the cable has developed too much friction inside, then the housing end will be pushed from its resting point as you operate the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T12:02:17.887" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T12:02:17.887" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30600" CreationDate="2015-05-17T03:09:23.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try riding 11 miles in these pants once, and as long as you haven't experienced any discomfort from riding this distance without spandex shorts that contain a chamois pad, you're unlikely to experience much discomfort as you ride more often. However, bike shorts are crafted from fabric made to resist pilling from the friction created when your rear rubs against the bike seat. With your seat this might be reduced compared to seats made of rougher material, but even if you aren't feeling any chafing, the friction might still have a negative impact on the fabric of your pants, especially as you rack up the miles. I've biked similar distances in pants and shorts made for hiking, and the synthetic ones pill a lot around the crotch area after riding a decent amount. None of my spandex bike shorts or baggy mountain biking shorts have shown this wear. If keeping your hiking pants looking nice for a casual office environment is a concern, I would recommend either biking to work in a separate pair of pants, or investing in a single pair of baggy mountain bike shorts. These tend to dry fairly quickly (probably like your hiking pants) due to their synthetic composition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4275" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T03:09:23.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30584" CreationDate="2015-05-17T07:30:41.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never ridden one of these bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I response to your question, I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=Retrospec+Speck+20&amp;quot;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Googled&lt;/a&gt; to check it out. The reviews are not flattering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to answer your question, I see that the angle of the steerer and front forks looks very steep. I'm not surprised that it feels like you're all over the place. Combined with the narrow handle bars, it would take a while to learn to control it - so I do agree with your friend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wider handlebars would help, but check that it still folds correctly with them on it before you pay for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can practice riding somewhere there is plenty of room, with time you should be able to learn to control it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if possible, I would return it, and invest the money in a better product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T07:30:41.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T07:46:25.807" Score="1" ViewCount="681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just purchased a new floor bike pump.While checking the tyres on my road bike&#xA;the gauge reads for the rear tyre 0.95 bar , 13.5 psi.the reccommended pressure is 130 psi,&#xA;maths not being my strong point! Am I just reading it wrong and not moving the decimal point so the actual pressure of the tyre is 9.5 bar and 135 psi.Sorry if this makes me seem a bit thick but I am new to cycling and want to get it right, better safe than sorry and all that.&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19528" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T16:18:06.277" Title="Tyre pressures and Pumps" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T08:32:24.757" Score="3" ViewCount="15801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some energy gel sachets that are a few months out of date. Do they contain anything that might be dangerous after their best-before date?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastEditorUserId="1560" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T09:49:35.760" LastActivityDate="2020-06-22T19:30:22.207" Title="Are out of date energy gels bad for you?" Tags="&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30614" CreationDate="2015-05-17T09:32:56.630" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this is problematic. Those gels consist mainly of sugar which is a good preserving agent and are sealed air-tight which means they shoudn't get easily contaminated. So if none of the following conditions are fulfilled, I wouldn't mind using such a gel that is some months over their &quot;best before&quot; date:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sachet hull is intact, i.e. there are no signs that unwanted air could have gotten in. Look for unwanted openings like deep scratches in the foil, rips, or signs that the package has been havily compressed or worked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gels have not been stored in extreme conditions. As long as they were at moderate temperature and not exposed to sunlight most of the time everything should be fine. Also having carried them in your backpack for the weekly ride in summer should not be a problem. I would be somewhat concerned if you had had them with you on a two or three weeks tour in hot climate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically you should be safe and even if you have a spoiled one you should notice that as soon as you taste it – I don't think they will spoil in a way that you cannot notice but will get sick from it. If you are unsure or have to rely on your food on a longer ride do the following: Try one of them at home to see if it's OK and take other food with you on tour as well, so that you can leave the gels alone in case you are not sure about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T09:44:15.863" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T09:44:15.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31938" CreationDate="2015-05-17T11:49:22.637" Score="4" ViewCount="665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to replace the bolts used to hold my cantilever brakes on as they've rusted and look pretty terrible on an otherwise clean bike. Is it ok to use stainless (A2-70 or A4-70) for these or would I be better with mild steel and replacement more often? &#xA;I'm less concerned about the rear as the braking force pushes the calipers into the frame, but if a bolt head breaks off on the front under braking it would turn fairly ugly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19530" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T22:17:04.933" Title="Stainless steel bolts for brake calipers" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37989" CreationDate="2015-05-17T14:09:26.430" Score="3" ViewCount="2626" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike is a 1983 Dawes Galaxy and upon trying the raise the saddle this morning, I found this stubby little thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NUB9O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;short seat post&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal for bikes of this age? In either case, why so short?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T23:32:57.463" Title="How come my bike has such a short seat post?" Tags="&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30617" CreationDate="2015-05-17T14:40:26.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Who says its the original seat post? (It likely isn't.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are maximum amounts of insertion (determined by the frame; there may be things inside the frame or weird shaped tubes) and minimum lengths of insertion (determined by the seat post; if its not inserted enough, you can damage the seat tube or worse) -- it is unlikely, but someone may have needed to meet these constraints and chose this seat post. For example, the person found they couldn't get the saddle low enough without hitting something in the frame, so they cut the post to the point where they could get enough of it into the frame and get the saddle low enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely, its not the original seat post, and someone just had it laying around and used it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, if its too short, go buy another seat post (of the right diameter, material) such that you can put the saddle in the right position with sufficient insertion -- they're like 20 bucks if you don't want something fancy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T14:40:26.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T15:47:30.470" Score="4" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my old road bike has a 3-speed freewheel, dropout spacing is about 114 mm. I'd like to give it an upgrade and put a 7 or 8 speed cassette (maybe stick with a freewheel if 6-7 speed, I just want more range and less hustle) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spacing of a modern cassette-type road hub is 130 mm. As the Sheldon Brown bible says cold setting is achievable but it doesn't say how many speeds you can go up. Many people go from 5 speed to 7 speed, or from 7 speed to 10 speed, but I couldn't find anyone on the internet who tries to go from 3 speed to 7 speed. My worry is that it is too much difference I have to spread apart and that it may damage the frame. My weight is on the heavy side and I don't want to end up with my teeth on the road :-P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, will it be safe to resize from 114 mm to 130?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14232" LastEditorUserId="14232" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T17:19:27.663" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T15:53:45.143" Title="cold setting 3-speed road frame to 7 8 speed cassette" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;7-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30613" CreationDate="2015-05-17T16:18:06.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;8.5 or 9bar is a usual maximum recommended pressure for road bike tires (23mm width). Depending on your weight and demands on comfort something between 7 and 8.5bar is usually right. Just be aware that road bike tires lose pressure pretty fast so you have to refill them every week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They should feel very hard at 8bar. If you can pinch them it’s way too little (though it’s hard to gauge pressure by hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T16:18:06.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30600" CreationDate="2015-05-17T16:19:12.827" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason to not do it is cultural. Road bikes and spandex go together for a reason, and by wearing hiking clothes on a road bike you show everyone your ignorance. It's like wearing hiking clothes to business meeting or suit to hiking trail, there's no absolute reason to not do it but you still don't do it. Of course, the Spiderflex saddle already makes you suspect :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hiking pants on a touring bike are on the other hand perfectly fine. I do a similar commute in jeans every day it is not raining (on a touring bike with old Turbomatic saddle, though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Almost same question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/30628/10595&quot;&gt;almost same answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T20:31:54.643" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30605" CreationDate="2015-05-17T16:30:04.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What’s your seating position? I guess you are sitting pretty upright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this seat will work with the stretched and deep position on a road bike. Especially when using the drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T16:30:04.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30574" CreationDate="2015-05-17T16:33:10.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Schwalbe CX Comp or Smart Sam in ~32mm width. Low pressure is most important on gravel etc. the profile is only useful in mud etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it’s really light off-road you could even try a Continental 4 Season in 28mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T16:33:10.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30600" CreationDate="2015-05-17T16:41:33.430" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience it’s uncomfortable and pants tend to get caught in the chain and bottle cages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T16:41:33.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30617" CreationDate="2015-05-17T17:58:27.583" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For road bikes of that age, showing just &quot;a fistful of seat post&quot; was considered good frame fit and style. Otherwise the frame was likely too small for the rider. Of course that was before the advent of sloping top tubes. If the bottom bracket is not too high, stand over height of the top tube should be no problem even with such small seat post extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T17:58:27.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30605" CreationDate="2015-05-17T18:34:08.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From this question and the other regarding clothes, I think that you would be better off showing the bike or bikes you are referring to when using the term &quot;road bike&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly you are not talking of a road bike like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6JV3X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hard road&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it would be just a waste of the money invested in weight reduction / aerodynamics to use it in plain clothes and with a beastly saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you refer to something like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2oBT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;relaxed road&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say a saddle like the one pictured is comfy enough for 11 miles, but you can uglify the bike for comfiness sake, police will not fine you. And casual clothes would fit perfectly aestethically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T18:34:08.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30631" CreationDate="2015-05-17T21:05:38.687" Score="2" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to buy a new wheelset for my bike. I need strong wheels: I am about 18 stone, carry a lot of luggage on the rear rack and go up and down kerbs a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, I need strong wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that spoke count is the traditional way to measure wheel strength, but it is not as good as it used to be because the material used to make the spokes is important, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an objective number that can be employed? I don't mind spending a lot of money on wheels, but I want to know that I'm getting something good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19321" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T07:23:25.117" Title="Other than spoke count, is there a strength ratings for wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30629" CreationDate="2015-05-17T21:56:22.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't ride like a numpty -- jumping curbs at 18 stone is not a good idea, especially with a loaded bike. You need to ride more carefully. However, many non-racing bikes these days are rated for around 18-19 stone riders (but of course, heavier riders will be more likely to cause damage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what to look for, a good quality hub (e.g. Shimano Deore), 32 or 36 spokes and a good name rim. It's not just the components that matter, but how they're put together, which means if you're concerned about it, talk to a good wheel builder. Some examples of why its not just the spoke count or whatever are outlined at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/Wheels.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; by Peter White (thus, there isn't an objective number that will tell you wheel x is going to be stronger than wheel y -- a poorly built 36 spoke wheel can be much weaker than a well built 32 spoke wheel). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure your tire pressure is set appropriately for your weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T21:56:22.183" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30629" CreationDate="2015-05-18T07:23:25.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it is less exact process than you hope for. Most important thing would be to locate reputable wheel builder who will build wheels for you. It can be an advantage if he is local to you. If there are some guys you know that went on the large tour of tenths of thousands of km, ask them who built their wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel builder would spec the wheel components according to your weight and riding style, from components he is accustomed to build. He would probably spec something along these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rims that can take at least 35 mm tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heavy duty double walled rims (Mavic A319 or A719 are often used but so are many others)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;36 of 2.0:1.8:2.0 spokes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T07:23:25.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30632" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T08:28:42.273" Score="4" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;im new at biking and my dad has this very old bike that is very rusty. I got interested in biking just this year and ive been biking a lot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually clean my bike eith a damp cloth and wipe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw lots of tutorials in youtube and right there it says i should use a hose or water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im worried that my bike will get rusty with the water because my dad said he cleaned his bike with water so im super worried. Will it rust ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;btw. The rust is nowhere to be found in he frame but the rust is in the crank, chain and wheels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19539" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T14:34:37.843" Title="Bike Cleaning Help" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30620" CreationDate="2015-05-18T08:41:53.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I would not stretch it that far. Aside from spacing you should check if your frame has derailleur hanger, and cable stops. Lastly you would have to ensure proper chain line after the stretch, possibly requiring BB and/or crank set change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T08:41:53.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30632" CreationDate="2015-05-18T09:20:04.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everybody uses water to clean bikes. It should not get rusty from that, especially if you dry it afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike is rusty like you describe then more likely from being exposed to water for much longer times than washing would (used in rain, standing outside all very often). Some parts are more likely to get rusty, chains and cranks for example since they are not painted and not made of stainless steel (the frame should be ok as long as the paint is). Also lack of proper lubing will make it more likely that those parts rust, the chain would normally have a thin layer of oil that protects it. For that you don't need to oil the whole chain, just the inside (as you will find recommended in many videos) and then wipe off the excess oil and this will leave enough oil on the outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the rust you see seems to be the typical parts that get easily rusty on old bikes or bikes that were not properly serviced for a long time. Don't worry too much about it, clean your bike with water and just see to it to wipe away most of it and put it in a dry place afterwards where it dries fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more things that can help avoid rust on such parts like wax based lubricants. But not sure if those are worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you actually want to avoid are steam/pressure washers. Those have the additional risk to bring water in places where water from a hose would not be a problem (especially the cables).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5476" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T09:20:04.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30632" CreationDate="2015-05-18T12:03:57.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stay away from gasoline for now. Many bicycle parts contain some internal grease/lubricant, and gasoline can get inside and dissolve the grease, so that they are no longer lubricated and protected against rust. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see advice on the internet to use gasoline, alcohol, WD40 or other stuff. People have different opinions about that, so I don't want to dismiss it, but you should know what you're doing and which parts can be damaged. For beginners, best stick to water, then dry and put some lubricant on the chain and other moving parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T12:03:57.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T13:35:24.627" Score="2" ViewCount="2589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to convert an MTB with 26X1.95 knobbies to road use for the wife but wonder if the present tire designation, specifying H.E. rims means anything once proper size tires are found. Many thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19546" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T12:05:00.620" Title="Importance of &quot;H.E.&quot; rim designation on MTB to tire fitment?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38040" CreationDate="2015-05-18T13:35:54.273" Score="2" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a complete tear down and reassembly I can't seem to find the right tightness adjustment for my threadless fork / headset. If I loosen it to the point that the front fork turns freely, there's play in the system and every time I apply the brakes there's a small clunk (that annoys the heck out of me). If I tighten the top nut to the point we here there's no more play, the fork binds up such that the fork doen't turn by itself due to gravity when the wheel is attached, if you know what I mean - suspend the bike and tilt the frame and the steerer should turn on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a horrible feeling riding with a steerer that's too tight, but the looseness is also pretty annoying.is there an adjustment I'm not doing right? My process is (after completely servicing the headset and bearings) to tighten the stack using the top nut, then tighten the clamping nuts, then slightly back off the top nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5372" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T19:27:58.987" Title="Can't find right headset adjustment" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30632" CreationDate="2015-05-18T14:34:37.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clean the bike with warm water and soap. Car soap works great but dish soap is also a good option. Don't be afraid to clean those really greasy and black areas thoroughly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the rust on the crank and wheels, this suggests those parts are chromed (one-piece crank, perhaps?) therefore the rust you see is most likely surface rust; a layer of minerals containing oxidized iron on top of the chrome since chrome doesn't rust. For this I suggest using fine steel wool like SOS steel wool soap pads or Bull Dog steel wool pads. I find SOS works best due to the soap it contains as it cleans the parts at the same time, but you could add soap to Bull Dog pads of course. You can also use aluminum foil; make a ball and start rubbing your chromed parts. In all cases, you want to use something than is harder then the rusty minerals stuck on the chrome but not as hard as chrome so you won't scratch it. And use plenty of soapy water, don't go at it dry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're at it, clean the spokes the same way; they're likely stainless steel and dull (unless they're painted, of course.) You can go harder on the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, take off the wheels to clean them; it'll be a lot easier than when they're still on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now about the chain, it is also probably surface rust. But due to all the links and pivots, it can be hard to get rid of all the rust without giving it a bath in acid. Just get a new chain, they're cheap and you know chain wear won't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the really greasy parts on the chainrings, derailleurs and sprockets, I like to use Varsol paint thinner or mineral spirits. A toothbrush can come in handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the exterior of the bike is step one. If you like riding it, next step would be to disassemble the crankset, hubs and pedals (if they allow it). Degrease the ball bearings, cups and cones (paint thinner) and re-grease them with new fresh grease :) If you don't have the tools and/or know how/interest to do it yourself, bring the bike to your local bike shop. Since you already cleaned most of the bike, they shouldn't charge you a lot to work on the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last thing; if the bike is very old, the tires and inner tubes are probably due for a change as well. Even if they seem to hold a good pressure, don't go too far without a complete puncture kit that includes a tire boot. Look it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spending time and money on restoring old bicycles is about fun and acquiring experience. Unless it's a very valuable, sought after bike, whatever money you spend on an old bicycle won't add to its value. But if you do it for pure fun as a hobby or to learn the trade of bicycle mechanic, it can be all worth it. Just beware of spending a fortune on tools like I did!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10284" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T14:34:37.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30602" CreationDate="2015-05-18T15:27:56.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ghost shifting is generally caused by the frame flexing, not by friction in the cables.&#xA;Other causes can be a poorly fitting or too short cable housing. Something is causing the length of the cable between the stops to change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cleaning the cable run and using a teflon coated shift cable won't hurt and might alleviate the problem if it's a combo of bottom bracket flex and sticky guide. When this&#xA;is the cause the problem tends to be very intermittent and only occurs when standing&#xA;on the pedals to climb. However, as Daniel R Hicks suggests, check the frame carefully for cracks. An aluminum alloy frame of that age that has seen a lot of miles is at the end of it's usable life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find any cracks, examine the cable housing runs carefully. The cable housing ends should not move at all in the stops when shifting or turning the handlebars. Check the derailleur hanger to make sure it's not loose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part you are looking at is called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0029LIY1A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bottom Bracket Cable Guide&lt;/a&gt;, but your's looks&#xA;just fine. They rarely wear out, shift cables aren't under much tension, so a plastic slider is plenty slippery enough. On an old enough bike, they are made of metal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T15:27:56.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30642" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T16:18:51.353" Score="-1" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike came with only RD as 1 x 9 drive system. But the frame does have a FD mount point and the seller told me 53/39 can go on it for sure but he is not sure if the compact will work. So how do I know it, anything to measure? My bike has Shimano Sora 9 speed RD, cassette, chain, rear shifter. I have measured the BB shell and it has 68 mm length and 40 mm diameter, based on my limited research it's a BSA standard. My current crank is a 56 T single chain ring and it's square taped. BTW, my bike is a 20 inch folder so don't be surprised by the 56 T chain ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Can I just add a smaller chain ring to the inner of the current big one to make a 56/39 set up? I have no experience on this at all so forgive me if this is absurd. I used to have 2 bikes with triple chain rings but never took a deep look at the things so can't remember what a double or triple looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I now know my FD mount is a braze on because it's a tab welded on the seat post. I measured the length between the lowest edge of the hole in the tab to the center of the BB shell, it's about 14 cm. The length of the hole is 2.5 cm. So can a FD reaches the chain rings on a compact?&#xA;Here is pic of the FD area, the tab is marked in the red circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y2kux.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17275" LastEditorUserId="17275" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T20:38:04.817" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T20:38:04.817" Title="How do I know my frame can take a compact crank set?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30642" CreationDate="2015-05-18T16:29:52.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely complication is that proper shifting using a compact crank set requires that the front derailleur sit lower on the seat tube. If your frame has a braze-on mount for the front derailleur it is likely too high to work with bolt on derailleur, and may get in the way if you try to use a bracket-mount front derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T16:29:52.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T17:30:21.900" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought some second hand forks online, rockshox recon gold (2012 I believe) to be precise, and when they arrived there's a bit of oil on the right leg, looks as though it's come from the lock out switch (if you'd call it a switch, maybe a lever but you get what I'm saying). Is this normal as it's been posted or should I be asking for a refund? Any light you can shine on this would be greatly appreciated!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19548" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T15:16:31.693" Title="Suspension leakage" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30673" CreationDate="2015-05-18T18:53:28.983" Score="1" ViewCount="2478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I filmed a little video of the process: https://youtu.be/ejJsIWrrFTU&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to solve the problem? Apart from attaching piece of rubber to the chainstay? It is really annoying, because if terrain becomes even a little bit rough, like messed pavement with pot holes and cracks, there is always that rattling sound. I heard that SRAM RD's are better and do not hit the chainstay. I'd like to stick to 9 speed if possible. I am currently running 1x9 setup. As you can see 9 speed cassete alivio or acera (not sure on this), Deore - RD, and Acera shifter. I want to upgrade to 1x11 eventually, but for the time being I just don't have much money to spare. I was thinking about buying SRAM 9 speed for ~60$, will it help? Will it work with my shifter? Are there any other solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19552" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T19:50:30.793" Title="Rear derailleur hitting chainstay (video in the post)" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30648" CreationDate="2015-05-18T19:13:13.423" Score="1" ViewCount="1709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have mistreated my bike and now am regretting it. The front forks are completely stuck. I took the end cap off the forks there's a bolt there but it's like 12 inches deep. Where the heck can I buy a 12inch hex key? because I've not been able to get anything long enough I don't even know what size hex key. It's not possible to take it apart from the bottom am sure because it just tapers off then attaches to the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T19:59:19.467" Title="Front suspension seized - what can I do" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30646" CreationDate="2015-05-18T19:59:19.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't say where you live (what country?), so you may not have this particular option for a store, but you could use a 3/8&quot; drive extension: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_337346-22328-85817_1z0wcg7__?productId=3380286&amp;amp;pl=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lowes.com/pd_337346-22328-85817_1z0wcg7__?productId=3380286&amp;amp;pl=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 3/8&quot; drive hex driver: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/pd_338623-22328-85226_0__?productId=3387790&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lowes.com/pd_338623-22328-85226_0__?productId=3387790&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You might also be able to find a T-handle hex driver that is long enough, although a quick google search didn't turn one up for me.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is of course assuming the base of the hex driver will fit into your fork tube, which it may not, you will have to check.&#xA;Also, before trying to loosen anything you should spray the bolt / any seized parts with penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) &amp;amp; let it sit for a while. That alone might end up being enough to free the stuck parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do get it apart, you should really consider doing a proper overhaul on it &amp;amp; determine if it is even fixable / worth fixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T19:59:19.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30644" CreationDate="2015-05-18T20:11:27.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's likely suspension oil is getting outside of the seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be a number of issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;failed seal &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scratched stanchion &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;too much oil after service&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd run them past your LBS for an opinion on what the cause may be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a scratched stanchion I'd ask for a refund. Otherwise I'd lean towards sending them back also unless they were so cheap that they'd still be a cheap fork after a service. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use them as is. Oil outside of seals attracts dust and then combines to turn into grinding paste which quickly removes the anodized coating from the stanchions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T20:11:27.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30645" CreationDate="2015-05-18T20:18:41.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The screw adjustment you point the camera to @20s needs to be turned in. This will rotate the derailleur away from the chain stay. The screw pushes against a protrusion on the derailleur body. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T20:18:41.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30670" CreationDate="2015-05-18T21:33:27.510" Score="1" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recently replaced the stock suspension forks on my Giant Cypress Hybrid with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikewagon.com/sr-suntour-cr9-suspension-fork-700c-1-1-8-black-210mm-threaded?___store=default&amp;amp;utm_campaign=map&amp;amp;utm_medium=email&amp;amp;utm_source=yotpo&amp;amp;yotpo_token=375cd20593e373ffdeffa99c4630ee32dd7f99bc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Suntour CR9 Lock-out fork&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I noticed that (like my mountain bike with a Manitou fork), I can engage the lockout while the fork is partially compressed, but unlike the mountain bike’s Manitou fork, the Suntour does not return to the top position when un-loaded while locked. Instead it will remain in the position it was when I locked it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, would I be risking damage to the Suntour fork if I ride it while locked out in a partially compressed position? Or should I make sure to return it to its top position before locking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It may be relevant to note that the pre-load is adjusted with the same lock-out lever)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T16:34:57.327" Title="Fork stays in compressed position while locked" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30681" CreationDate="2015-05-19T00:09:29.010" Score="3" ViewCount="1958" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a cube aim sl MTB and a kid trailer that's designed to attach to the rear bottom side of the rear triangle with a clamp. The problem is that the clamp is not big enough to safely attach to the bottom side of the triangle since it's quite square and big, as can be seen in the picture below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUhoI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: is it ok for the bike and trailer to attach the clamp to the seat stay since that tube is a lot slimmer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19556" LastEditorUserId="19730" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T03:25:54.557" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T03:25:54.557" Title="Attaching kid trailer to rear triangle" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-19T01:01:40.933" Score="4" ViewCount="5030" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Diamondback mountain bike with Shimano shifters that I bought used last summer, and over time the shifting has gone out of whack. For example, on the front wheel I can't shift into the easiest gear, and in some gears it sounds like the chain is rubbing on one of the derailleurs when I'm riding. Also when I'm in the hardest two gears on the back wheel, the chain slips sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried adjusting the screws on the derailleurs and got the rubbing noise to go away, but it returned not long afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride my bike to work but wouldn't call myself a cyclist. How would you explain to a child, step-by-step, how to tune up the bike's shifting? How do I know if a part needs to be replaced, and are there any parts in the shifting system that I should expect to have to replace after riding the bike 1000 miles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19557" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T17:11:30.407" Title="How do I tune up the shifters/derailleurs on my mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30659" CreationDate="2015-05-19T02:20:42.637" Score="12" ViewCount="3753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found my mom's old road bike from the 70s tucked away in a corner of our attic. It's not in great condition and is pretty rusty. I don't know a lot about bikes from a mechanical or upkeep point of view but would love to use this bike as an opportunity to really understand them and work on my bike mechanics skills.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15861" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T12:54:59.097" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T11:26:54.190" Title="How can I learn to take care of an old (70s era) road bike/get it back to working condition?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30656" CreationDate="2015-05-19T02:32:24.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've chosen a non-trivial project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike has been unmaintained since the 70s it's got several things wrong with it from the git-go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tires are rotten&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brake blocks have hardened into concrete&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The grease in the bearings has dried up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, finding parts for a bike of this age can be a challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want to learn how to maintain a bike and you don't mind getting your hands dirty, you don't have much to lose.  (Well, maybe $50-100 for the tools, parts and supplies you will need.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need, however, to find a good (and preferably old) book on bike maintenance.  You might start by looking at your local library, since they might have something sufficiently old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T02:32:24.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30656" CreationDate="2015-05-19T02:58:53.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not really an answer, but it's too long for comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Daniel has given some good &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/30657/8273&quot;&gt;starting points&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a bike of the vintage, &lt;em&gt;Richard's Bicycle Book&lt;/em&gt; by Richard Ballantine would be a good bet, and is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0330267663&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;second hand&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say &lt;em&gt;rusty&lt;/em&gt;, do you mean the frame, or wheels, handlebars, brakes, pedals, etc? The way to approach such a project depends somewhat on the quality of the original machine, and whether you want to &lt;em&gt;restore&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;fix&lt;/em&gt; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have derailleur gears? Or internal hub gears (IGH).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it have rim brakes, or hub brakes? Are they operated by hands or feet?&#xA;In the case of hand levers, the cables have probably frozen and need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the rims steel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it's a non-trivial project. Know what you want to achieve, take it slowly, and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;ask lots of specific questions&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The questions I've asked are for you to look into, not for you to answer here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T03:06:30.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30656" CreationDate="2015-05-19T03:43:24.410" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's doable although it doesn't make sense from a cost perspective. Only do it if you have an emotional investment in the bike or want a fun project that will teach you a lot about bike mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you an idea, I bought a 1975 Peugeot UO18 Mixte (a woman's road bike, perhaps similar to your mom's) that had been stored in a barn and turned it into my commuter bike. In order to do this, I had to (in order of simple to complex):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the brake pads which had oxidized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy. You just need an adjustable wrench or set of open-ended wrenches (maybe a screw-driver). There are different styles of brake pads, it's best to remove the old ones and bring them to your local bike shop so they can give you the right replacement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replace all of the brake lines and derailleur lines, which had seized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy-to-moderate. You need to get your brake/shifter housings cut to length which your bike shop will do for you. Replacing brake lines is fairly easy although you need to readjust your brakes after you do this. Rather than cutting the brake line to length (which needs a special &lt;a href=&quot;http://pedros.com/products/tools/brakes-and-shifting/cable-cutter/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tool&lt;/a&gt;), you can have the bike shop cut and crimp it after you're done. No special tools needed except screwdrivers, wrenches, and the aforementioned cable-cutter which is optional. Having a brake &quot;third hand&quot; will make your life a bit easier although asking a family member for their physical third hand also works.   Replacing derrailleur lines is a little bit more tricky and not recommended until later on as you'll need to readjust the derailleurs after replacing the cable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the old steel front and rear wheels (rims, cassettes, sprockets) with 700c rims with a nice modern cassette in the back and a nice dynamo in front. New tires and tubes too, of course, as the old ones had rotted away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I could have kept the rims but they were steel and not very &quot;grippy&quot; in the rain; in addition, the old size limited my tire options. I knew that I wanted a dynohub and so it was just cheaper in the long run to just go straight to buying new wheels front and rear. It also allowed me to go from 5 speeds in the rear to 9 speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Easy to moderate. Even if you don't replace the rims, you'll likely need to replace the tires and tubes.  Replacing the front tire is fairly easy. You do have to get a new tire on the bead, which will require tire tools (get the Pedro levers). Replacing the rear is also pretty easy, just watch how to snake the chain around the rear sprockets. You'll also need a pump too, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the chain with a 8/9 compatible chain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moderate. You'll need to get a chain-breaker tool and replacement pins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the front stem (the old French AVA stem is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/velos.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;prone to snapping&lt;/a&gt;) and bars with contemporary Velo Orange components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy. Just needed a set of hex wrenches.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These were the &quot;basic&quot; mods. In addition, I also changed out the rear derailleur with a nice Campy one and changed out the shifters to a nicer set of vintage Shimanos.  But these are optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the overall cost for my bike was much more than if I had bought a decent used bike (I estimate more than ~$300 in parts and several hours of labor) but less than what a new, steel-frame commuter might be (~$800). The advantage in my case is that I live in a high-theft city and this commuter doesn't look too fancy but rides like a dream. And I like fixing things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're a beginner, the only real &quot;essentials&quot; would be to make sure that your tires have air, the cranks work, and that you can brake. After that, everything else can be a slow upgrade as you learn more skills as a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of resources, I'd recommend Sheldon Brown's site, the Zinn book on maintenance, and the Park &quot;Blue&quot; book. And of course, a lot of hanging around at your local bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also help if you can find someone to mentor you as a fledgling bike mechanic. I know it's hard as a gal who loves to get my hard hands dirty to find any respect, but it's possible to find community. See if there are any community bike clinics offered at your local bike shops or in the area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the bill of materials / notes from my repair notebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Front wheel&#xA;700c  vuelta rim  622x18&#xA;Stainless steel spokes 36h&#xA;Sanyo 6vac hub dynamo NH27&#xA;&#xA;Rear wheel&#xA;SRAM PG950 9-speed Cassette  SR-PG950-34      11X34 $18.39&#xA;2012.11.21  Dimension Road Rear Wheel 700c 36h Shimano 2200 Silver / Freedom Ryder 23 (622-17)Black &#xA;&#xA;Front sprocket (original), crankset original, pedals original&#xA;52-38&#xA;&#xA;Rear Sprocket &#xA;SRAM PG950 9-speed Cassette  SR-PG950-34 (was 14-26) 382g&#xA;11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30-34&#xA;&#xA;Derailleur&#xA;Campagnolo Mirage (used/vintage)&#xA;Chain wrap  = (52-38) + (34-11) = 14 + 23 = 37&#xA;&#xA;Stem and bars&#xA;Velo Orange Threadless Stem Adapter ST-0001 $16&#xA;VO Porteur Handlebar $32&#xA;&#xA;Upgrade Schedule&#xA;2012.09.26: Front Suntour derailler. Put new chain on (7.96mm outside width)&#xA;2012.10.09: Replaced front wheel with Dynohub + 700c 622x18 (36h) $85&#xA;2012.10.09:  Continental Gator Hardshell Urban Bicycle Tire with Duraskin (700x28, Wire Beaded) $48.79                  &#xA;2012.10.18: Rear Campagnolo (8-9) derailler  &#xA;2012.10.24: All new brake lines and derailleur lines (Jagwire L3)&#xA;2012.10.24: 15.6kg w rack and dynohub and lights, front sun tour derailleur, rear campy derailleur.&#xA;2012.11.28 sks mud guards     &#xA;2012.11.21  SRAM PG950 9-speed Cassette  SR-PG950-34      11X34 $18.39&#xA;2012.11.21  Dimension Road Rear Wheel 700c 36h Shimano 2200 Silver / Freedom Ryder 23 (622-17)Black&#xA;2012.12.01  Rear wheel =&amp;gt; Continental Gatorskin ($49.99) &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T04:10:40.853" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T04:10:40.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30654" CreationDate="2015-05-19T04:05:18.377" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take this bicycle to an LBS asking them to fix this, chances are they will try spraying the guts of the shifter(s) through every opening using something like WD-40. Since WD-40 gums up after it dries, I'm not sure I'd use that; &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/9657OoOY3oE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;maybe this video&lt;/a&gt; will be helpful. You can also try lubing the cables by squirting lube into the end(s) of the housing. I favor ATF for that, but you can probably use the same lube you would use for the shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T04:05:18.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30656" CreationDate="2015-05-19T05:24:49.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on your objective.  Are you doing it to save money, or because you want to ride &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt; bike? You can do it, but unless you are attached to the bike there may be a better option.  My wife and I got back into riding last year, dusted off our late 70's ten speeds (2 by 5, not 10 at the rear), got a tuneup from the local bike shop including new brake pads, put new tires (we used road tubulars, a bit hard to find) on, and were good to go.  I thought about replacing the wheels to use modern clinchers but decided it wasn't worth it.  The shifters, deraillers and chains worked fine with a little lube.  This was preparing for a ten day tour where the operator supplied modern bikes.  We came home and bought new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T05:24:49.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30666" CreationDate="2015-05-19T07:53:04.573" Score="17" ViewCount="83496" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use regular trainers/shoes (i.e., withou cleats) with clipless pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine mentioned he does this all the time. However, I cannot imagine how this would work. Surely the area of grip would be far too small to get any kind of purchase on the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We both have &lt;a href=&quot;https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tiagra-4700/PD-R540.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shimano PD-R540 SPD&lt;/a&gt; pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18733" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2020-05-08T16:55:08.627" LastActivityDate="2020-05-08T16:55:08.627" Title="Can I use &quot;normal&quot; shoes/trainers with clipless pedals?" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;cleat&gt;&lt;pedals-clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-19T08:59:26.467" Score="0" ViewCount="1289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride very old Ritchey Logic pedals (model year ~1998), with original cleats (look like the red ones below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a2Fu8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old Ritchey Logic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since those have long been out of stock, I'd like to buy newer ones, the Logic V4 Comp, looking like the black one: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WF6QC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ritchey Logic V4 Comp&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: does anybody know, whether Ritchey cleats for old Logic pedals are still compatible with the new ones? I'd be grateful for a non-speculative, definite answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5879" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T08:59:26.467" Title="Have Ritchey Logic cleats changed in 15 years?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;pedals-clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30420" CreationDate="2015-05-19T10:09:19.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bike mechanics will tell you that the best performance is not attained at maximum tyre pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own tyres take up to 4.5 bar, yet the best ride is at around 2.5 bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For whatever reason, my bike rolls better in the terrrain at 2.5 bar than at 3 bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19562" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T10:09:19.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30662" CreationDate="2015-05-19T10:29:44.223" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; use them with normal shoes, but as you predict, it isn't very comfortable, especially if your shoes have thin, flexible soles. Also, there's a risk of your foot slipping off, particularly in the wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various options to temporarily convert clip pedals into ordinary flat ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://flypedals.com/&quot;&gt;Fly pedals&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bbbcycling.com/bike-parts/pedals/BPD-90&quot;&gt;BBB BPD FeetRest pedal adaptors (SPD only)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T10:29:44.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30654" CreationDate="2015-05-19T11:52:05.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These 2 videos from Art's Cyclery on YouTube will cover everything you need, they've helped me a great amount with my own Shimano chainset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/wQncKmddahk?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/tfBiXgf8JxI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19564" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T11:52:05.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30662" CreationDate="2015-05-19T15:47:54.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: I use Fly Pedals now when I want to convert my clipless pedals into regular pedals. They are made of machined aluminum, light weight, and lock together so you can put them in your pocket. They cost $50 plus cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flypedals.com/products/fly-pedals-version-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;enter link description here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vNgzo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vNgzo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://anykicks.la/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This company (started on Kickstarter)&lt;/a&gt; makes flat platforms with straps on top and cleats on the bottom. They convert clipless pedals into toe clips. A pair runs $55 without the actual cleats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pclzo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LrhvU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastEditorUserId="5360" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T21:36:09.187" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T21:36:09.187" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30651" CreationDate="2015-05-19T16:34:57.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many forks work that way.  I have a Pace fork that would lock in any position.  By locking in a compressed position, you get a bit better geometry for climbing (lowers the front end).  I doubt that you will hurt the fork riding in a locked/compressed/partially compressed position, but a quick check of you owners manual could probably confirm this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T16:34:57.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30645" CreationDate="2015-05-19T19:15:12.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rear derailleur adjustment can be a really pain in the neck. What is more likely happening is that you have to adjust the B screw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;B-Screw Adjustment After setting the L-screw, check the &quot;B-screw&quot; for&#xA;  an adequate setting. The B-screw controls the derailleur body angle,&#xA;  hence the name, B-screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find detailed information about all the setting for a rear derailleur &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, including the screw (B-screw) that adjusts distance to the bike frame. You should adjust this AFTER the other two screws that adjust upper and lower limits relating to the cassette are properly adjusted, so follow ALL the steps one by one and you should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible your derailleur hanger needs alignment. Watch your bike from behind and see if the body of the derailleur goes down parallel to the bike frame. If it doesn't, you need to adjust with a specific tool, so you should take your bike to a shop because it's not worth buying it. You can find more information about hanger adjustment &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastEditorUserId="19084" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T19:50:30.793" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T19:50:30.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30751" CreationDate="2015-05-19T19:18:17.860" Score="10" ViewCount="13566" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im looking into making the switch from platforms to clip-less and just saw SPD pedals with &quot;Click'R&quot; technology ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00D85K5OA&quot;&gt;Example&lt;/a&gt; ) Im not sure if its worth the extra money to buy that opposed to SPD pedals without the &quot;Click'r&quot; Technology. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Has anyone tried both?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What do you think?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will also be my first ever pair of clip-less pedals so i prefer something beginner friendly which is what the &quot;click'r&quot; advertises &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just found this from the Shimano Website a great video Describing their Click'R Technology &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00D85K5OA&quot;&gt;Youtube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their Website also has a great Diagram &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano-lifestylegear.com/us/fw/technologies/clickr.php&quot;&gt;http://www.shimano-lifestylegear.com/us/fw/technologies/clickr.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19573" LastEditorUserId="19573" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T13:05:03.167" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T18:06:36.513" Title="What is the benefit of Shimano Click'R technology?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;pedals-clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30702" CreationDate="2015-05-19T19:36:56.570" Score="0" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Brooklyn, NY and in order to get in a decent 30+ mile ride (road bike) I either need to do 9 loops of Prospect Park (ugh..) or head into Manhattan, go up to the GWB, and onto 9W. Then I need to come back. Getting to the GWB is a real pain from Brooklyn and not reasonable time-wise weekday mornings before work, since it takes over an hour just to get out of the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Do you guys know of any 30+ mile rides that are unimpeded by pedestrian or car traffic starting around Prospect Park? Happy to head to East New York or Queens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19372" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T19:20:40.953" Title="Best bike routes in Brooklyn" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30602" CreationDate="2015-05-19T19:44:01.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of things could be the reason of your derailleur shifting on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that both the derailleurs and the shifters are in good working order, that you washed and lubricated them and correct adjust them with the respective screws. Please refer to Park Tools repair help guide to correctly set all these adjustments. You can find it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and please bookmark it, because their site is nothing short of amazing. And now that we are talking about this, also check for the rear derailleur hanger alignment, as you can see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that we know this is not a problem, the main reason of poor shifting is your cables being dirty and/or simply old. Replace everything, inner and outer cables. Buy the cheapest ones is usually good enough, a good tip is to put teflon-based oil (cheapest you can find, it's a good buy because you will use it for the derailleurs, chain, etc) inside the outer tube before putting the inner tube in. This will ensure good operation for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About you bike's cable routing, you can find a new plastic piece for your frame &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0025UQ6GK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (make sure this is the correct model). I wouldn't bother if yours look good, just clean it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of routing on your bike is definitely not the best (as you can see lots of debris accumulate there), but that's ok. There is a neat thing you can do: pass the cable for the front derailleur through the standard places (down the inner tube), but for the rear derailleur use a big outer tube that goes all the way from the shifter to the derailleur (check what works best with your bike frame, if down the top tube/seatstays or through the down tube/chainstays, and choose whichever route because since we are using a outer tube debris are not a problem anymore).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will ensure that cable stays clean and protected and your shifting should be good for a longer time. You can buy cable guides like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/shopping/product/183965602419458293?q=bike%20cable%20guides&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;client=safari&amp;amp;rls=en&amp;amp;biw=1264&amp;amp;bih=767&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_cp.&amp;amp;bvm=bv.93756505,d.cGU&amp;amp;tch=1&amp;amp;ech=1&amp;amp;psi=MpBbVZzYIpLeoATSi4KQAw.1432064052425.3&amp;amp;prds=paur:ClkAsKraX4o6X-pSAaJEz7GxShNOl0_iAD36fE0548r9McpPtUoU7J4xeNBZ6rjD7ev_NYvpVZ7qUZaHVcDzfykvsbWeAlM2p6L3NOWPtbYUrpPhz_LQ66DoZRIZAFPVH70ryyIOEl6RMgdzdPeM1knfLkc_CQ&amp;amp;ved=0CAQQpis&amp;amp;ei=N5BbVZy4DsayogS_sIDYCA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; (there are more types, just google for it) but I would just use zip ties and do something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/tooltime/538626d1272153350-zip-tie-cable-guide-trick-dscn0742.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be patience and good luck! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T19:44:01.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30550" CreationDate="2015-05-19T20:16:29.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One common solution is to move feet slightly forward in relation to where you usually put it when pedaling. This is easily achieved with cleats since their position dictates exactly that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, try moving your cleat further back from its normal position (the ball of the foot) to relieve the nerves at the base of the toes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A suggestion by Lon Haldeman (Race Across America competitor) is to move them back so much you actually have to drill new holes into your shoes to fit them:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/a/lopsae.com/file/d/0B3sCYFto8z6rbDRRbHB0cmNfLVU/edit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://docs.google.com/a/lopsae.com/file/d/0B3sCYFto8z6rbDRRbHB0cmNfLVU/edit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T20:16:29.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30644" CreationDate="2015-05-19T21:27:34.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you like these things you can rebuild the suspension. You have detailed, easy to follow instructions from Rock Shox &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/recon-gold-rl#service&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and you can buy a rebuild kit also from Rock Shox, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/fork-service-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (please confirm these two match your suspension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't spend too much on tools (some you can borrow maybe?), or at least you won't spend much more than your local shop will charge you. The tools you buy you can reuse on the next service, you will end up saving a lot of money by doing it yourself, and it goes for a nice afternoon with beers and friends if you're into that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T21:27:34.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30653" CreationDate="2015-05-19T21:45:05.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar trailer clamp it was terrible, I ended up buying a hitch that connects to the axle and removed the clamp. I attached a length of aluminum tubing with some holes drilled in it in place of the clamp. I slip the tube over the axle hitch and then use a hitch pin to keep it all in place. Its on my other bike currently but the hitch looks like this. I find this a way better system than the clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19571" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T21:38:24.397" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T21:38:24.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30656" CreationDate="2015-05-19T21:52:08.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You choose a non-trivial project. Lots of good tips have been given, but I must warn you: restoring an old bike is not a to-do list like I have seen here. It's not like maintaining a new one. There are all sorts of difficulties with old, seized components, that will be a pain to unmount, and which will require a careful evaluation before rebuilding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel lost among all the information, and don't want to read an entire book, the head mechanic of park tool (famous bike tools company) did a project a while ago where he described a step-by-step project similar to yours, on restoring an old bike, with very detailed information on each step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the components/difficulties he had to deal with are certainly different from yours, but his detailed instructions and videos are a really good place for you to start, you will learn a lot by watching them, and they are really easy to follow. You can find it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/calvins-corner/reconditioning-older-bikes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this should be a lot of fun with your friends and a few beers, so enjoy the process and good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastEditorUserId="19084" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T21:59:09.607" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T21:59:09.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-19T21:56:15.080" Score="1" ViewCount="5731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have managed to release my shocks from the compressed position. The uppers look in very good nick. It has a little corrosion on the uppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I brought a tub of pure bike eco grease ages ago and never used it. Is it possible to use this on the uppers and lowers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/pure-eco-range-bike-grease-100g-tub-prod29089/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/pure-eco-range-bike-grease-100g-tub-prod29089/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastEditorUserId="6996" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T22:01:55.197" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T18:00:31.660" Title="what kind of grease to use on front shocks" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30683" CreationDate="2015-05-19T22:13:08.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be careful, you can not use all types of lubricants on suspensions of rear shocks. The reason is that these are subject to high, fast friction and a lot of heat, so you need lubricants that are developed to handle these conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't make sense to advice you an anything in particular, just be careful to buy suspension-specific oil and grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, if you are saying the shock used to be stuck in a compressed position, and have some rust in the upper-seals... none of those are good signals. Make sure your suspension is on good working order, or at least that it has enough structural integrity to be safe to use (take it to a shop if you're not sure). If you have some money on the side I would recommend buying a new one, even if it's a really cheap one (1 year guarantee is mandatory so at least you will have that :-) ). If you ride mainly on road buy a rigid fork (they are super cheap, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Mountain-Bike-Rigid-Fork-26-1-1-8-Cantilever-9mm-QR-/381258439371?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item58c4c61acb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;used&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELITE-Scandium-super-lite-TEC-MTB-Bike-Mountain-V-Brake-1-1-8-Rigid-Fork-26-/321748052560?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item4ae9adaa50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;new&lt;/a&gt;, for example) and forget maintenance for ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be safe and good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T22:13:08.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-19T22:22:15.740" Score="4" ViewCount="26181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have upgraded from cheap old front cable disks brakes and rear v-brakes to Shimano hydraulic M355's front and rear. I always adjusted my old brakes for a very tight fit (to reduce dead space between pads/rotor) thus shortening my lever throw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a sidenote, I know the M355's are the lower end of the hydraulic spectrum but i would have expected them to be better than my old lower end cable brakes. Also, I have bled both of these brakes twice in succession so air cannot be an issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1.&#xA;With these new hydraulics there is a large space between the pads and rotor. The pads do auto-adjust correctly but not enough. Are there any tricks to modify this? &lt;em&gt;(I have tried over-filling the system and it works briefly until the pads wear down a bit. However, i am unsure if overfilling could damage the bladder/diaphram in the lever)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2.&#xA;I have noticed that both the front and rear levers feel different when applying braking pressure. The rear feels nice and soft, yet firm and feels the same all the way through the stroke. It also provides good power. However, on the front, when the pads contact the rotor, you can really feel the lever go from soft to hard immediately. The front does not provide as much power as it should.&#xA;Does this indicate something is wrong? If so, what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the long paragraghs, just trying to give you all a clear picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for any help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19578" LastEditorUserId="3140" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T16:38:42.160" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T08:54:00.460" Title="Tips for adjusting Shimano M355 hydraulic brakes" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30614" CreationDate="2015-05-19T22:25:27.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would probably eat them if they look and taste ok. Also check if the package looks ok (and is not swallow, for example). It is up to you though. Ask yourself: would you eat an yogurt or cookies in the same situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not because these are made of sugar that they hold better or not. Some products do, some products don't, and the manufacturer of your gels knows your product better than you, and set an expiration date for a reason. This is true for all edible products, energy gels are no different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T22:25:27.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30685" CreationDate="2015-05-19T22:52:32.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding Q2 -- I think both brakes should feel like your front brake -- when the pads contact the rotor, the lever feel should change instantly.  If this is not the case for the rear brake, I assume it is due to (tiny) air bubbles somewhere in the rear brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is strange that in spite of this, you observe that the front provides less braking power than the rear. Perhaps the front brake pads or disk are contaminated with brake fluid or some other liquid ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T22:52:32.400" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30685" CreationDate="2015-05-19T22:56:58.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I think you made a good decision. Hydraulic disc brakes are the way to go, and the M355 are really nice for the price. Also, I assume brake pads/discs are not contaminated and caliper is straight in relation to the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are indeed the cheapest brakes, and therefore there is not much place for adjustments. If without touching the lever the pads don't touch the disk, and when you apply they do, than I would say they are ok. Maybe you would like them to do have a tighter feel, but with this model there isn't much you can do apart from lever distance to handlebar (play with this a little to feel confortable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think overbleeding helps. It shouldn't cause any harm, but the brakes were designed to work in a specific way, so it might affect behavior under heat, or might be causing the &quot;instant brake&quot; feel you are talking about, or might cause rubbing with new pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to notice is that it is normal, even in good brakes, that the rear and front feels slightly different, because of expansion on the tube under braking (there is so much tube going to the rear, right?). And also, as the rider you are more sensible to brake forces in the front, and they affect more the dynamics of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I would recommend you to do is to bleed according to manufacturer's instructions and try to adapt. The change from pads or mechanical disc is huge in terms of the relation between lever force - braking force, and it is normal that as a rider you need some time to feel comfortable as you change muscle memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, on my road bike I always pull the lever/pads with as much strength as I can to do an emergency brake, whereas in my mountain bike with hydraulics I have to re-teach myself that I must always modulate brake lever even in an emergency brake. The dynamics are very different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there might be something wrong with them, but from your description I doubt it. If you can't take it out of your mind though, go to a shop, pretend you want to buy a bike with the same brakes as you have and ask for a small test-drive :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T22:56:58.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30511" CreationDate="2015-05-19T23:06:19.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the rear wheel you need a specific wheel hub that you can attach a disc to, assuming your frame supports disc brakes in the rear (check answer from @Kibbee). My advice is to just forget this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the front however, since your bike already has discs, the change is really easy. You can buy really good price-for-money Shimanos for example, as you can see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-acera-m395-disc-brake/rp-prod119954?gs=1&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjwvuuqBRDG95yR6tmfg9oBEiQAjE3RQI6vH2F_nDyLlAAyiz8XyjIlYYjsfJwhzurwk_G0P7oaAu7s8P8HAQ&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. You will notice a big difference, and doing so implies just removing old lever and caliper and attach new ones. Super easy, and you don't even need to change the disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caliper might need a special adaptor. This depends on your fork and disc size, and I can't advice you without a picture, but Google &quot;bike disc brake adapters&quot; and you will find all the info you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this shift for hydraulics will be worth it, as you will notice a big difference and they are really cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy braking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T23:06:19.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30692" CreationDate="2015-05-19T23:19:20.037" Score="5" ViewCount="3196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had clothing that was specialized for cycling, so I'm kinda n00b in that area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confused about the use of spandex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very common among roadies, for obvious reasons. It's more comfortable, has less friction on the seat, and is more aerodynamic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why doesn't it make sense for mountain bikers? You do see plenty of XC riders with spandex, but not in &quot;120-160mm travel&quot; areas like trail/enduro. Those guys seem to use basic shorts of one type or another, that catch air and might catch on branches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why isn't spandex just as common in the mtb circles? Is it a cultural thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T07:17:05.323" Title="Why so few mountain bikers with spandex?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-culture&gt;&lt;spandex&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30653" CreationDate="2015-05-20T01:18:20.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can find some other tube on the bike frame that fits the clamp better, that should be fine.  Obviously if you attach the clamp too high, the trailer will be tilted at an angle which would be uncomfortable for your kid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have a trailer with a similar attachment.  I noticed that the clamp can have a tendency to come loose from vibration, if it's not super tight. If the trailer doesn't already have it, I would rig up some kind of safety backup system, where a string/rope/bungee will hold the trailer arm if the clamp suddenly lets go. The idea is that you notice that something has happened to the trailer and you can pull over and fix it. It's not designed to keep riding without the clamp, except for 20-30 feet until you can stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T01:18:20.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30690" CreationDate="2015-05-20T03:14:42.277" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already said, aerodynamics are less important to MTB's, but otherwise its largely convention and fashion that dictate what people wear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A vast majority of MTB'r are not wearing basic shorts - they are usually wearing shorts made for riding, including padding just like Lycra road shorts, flat seams and materials designed to withstand the rigour of riding. Many MTB shorts consist of removable lycra under shorts with the baggy outer designed for cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me personally, I wear baggies MTBing because we often spend time &quot;in public&quot; - around cafes or pubs after the ride, socialising and I feel like a fashion mistake (and I am not fashion concious) walking into a cafe in lycra. I will wear lycra if doing long distances, or I know I won't be more than 10 feet from the bike for the whole time I am out, but feel more comfortable wearing shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T08:03:37.183" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T08:03:37.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30690" CreationDate="2015-05-20T09:49:49.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Those guys seem to use basic shorts of one type or another&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most (at least those who pedal more than 5 miles per ride and have been riding for more than 1 year) use some form of spandex with padding below the shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;that catch air &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and might catch on branches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't happen. The hands and elbows in modern MTBs are very very wide compared to the shorts and at the same level/height with the shorts. If something is to catch, it's the hands/handlebars/elbows/shoulders first. Never the shorts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it a cultural thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wearing spandex only, yes, it's a cultural thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T04:20:54.397" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T04:20:54.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29123" CreationDate="2015-05-20T10:03:20.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the problem occurred in a crash and the wheel was still in the dropouts as opposed to something hitting the bike while it was in a garage with no wheel on, then almost certainly there was  a problem with both sides of the fork. Most likely there are issues of misalignment not only in the front to back axis but there will most likely be some twisting involved as well. By that I mean the dropouts are no longer in line with the crown of the fork. Remember that the axel locks the two dropouts together so in a crash both legs wold suffer damage. My guess is the one leg that you described as being bent back towards the frame was on the inside of the wheel during the crash and the other leg was on the side of the impact but instead of being pushed back, it twisted. Long story short is if you are dead set on having this fork repaired, then take it to someone experienced in frame building and not just your local shop. It needs both legs properly looked at. If they can cold work it (meaning no torch needed to heat the metal), then you could possibly get by with a two hour labor charge. But if they have to use the torch to move it out of it's lug or just to make the steel more pliable then you will have to consider the cost of paint as well as the cost of straightening the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19581" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T10:03:20.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-20T10:29:35.813" Score="4" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a pair of hydraulic brakes (Shimano BL-M395) for my MTB. After 8 months (less than 1,000 kms), both (front/rear brake) started to leak oil thru pistons, rendering pads contaminated and the brakes unusable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being unserviceable (except for bleeding), the caliper or the whole kit must be replaced in case of problems. That's not cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking about buying a new pair, I wonder How long will last typical consumer level hydraulic brake (years, kms)? It's something you have to discard and replace every year?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T21:49:29.273" Title="What is the hydraulic brakes expected life?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30662" CreationDate="2015-05-20T10:56:06.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing to stop you from getting on your bike in regular trainers instead of shoes with cleats. you won't damage your pedals in any way as long as you don't have a rock lodged in the sole of your shoe. The problem, as far as I can see it, is that it is just not very comfortable due to the small surface area and flexible sole of the shoe. Your feet will feel the pressure localized into a very small area. The other issue is grip. There isn't a lot of traction since the body of the pedal wasn't designed with that in mind.  I do my own mechanics out if my garage and will occasionally hop on the bike I'm working on to make sure my repair or adjustment is working properly. I have bikes with Ritchey Logic, Speedplay frogs, SpeedPlay Zeros, Shimano SPD and non-clipless pedals. I don't go and put on the proper shoes just to ride down the street and back while I test an adjustment. So, yes, you can ride without shoes with cleats but really only in a very limited way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19581" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T10:56:06.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30699" CreationDate="2015-05-20T14:05:41.030" Score="1" ViewCount="784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to park my bicycle, leaning it against a low metal fence. Unfortunately the frame of the bike gets scratched. Though I try to protect it by wrapping it with polyethylene, some parts are still unprotected. So, I decided to buy a double leg kickstand: to keep the bike standing straight, so it won't touch the fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found out, that there are cheap and expensive kickstands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-MASSLOAD-Double-Leg-Kickstand-For-24-28-Rim-Black-/141042540143?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&amp;amp;hash=item20d6ca5e6f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1-st kickstand&lt;/a&gt; costs 99 GBP &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-MASSLOAD-Double-Leg-Kickstand-For-24-28-Rim-Silver-/400556672089?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&amp;amp;hash=item5d4309c459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2-nd kickstand&lt;/a&gt; costs 43,52 AUD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-Bicycle-Middle-Install-Double-Leg-Kickstand-Alloy-Reparing-Parking-Stand-/400701187069?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&amp;amp;hash=item5d4ba6e3fd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3-rd kickstand&lt;/a&gt; costs 21,99 AUD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is so special in the 1-st and 2-nd kickstands, that makes the price so high? The 3-rd seems ok to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13656" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T17:54:31.527" Title="How to select double leg kickstand" Tags="&lt;kickstand&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30697" CreationDate="2015-05-20T17:48:35.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Velo-Orange double-leg, folding &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/chainguards-stay-protectors-kickstands/vo-retractable-dual-leg-kickstand.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Copenhagen&lt;/a&gt; kickstand. The folding styles are much better compared with rigid style (aka, motorcycle) kickstands in that they fold out of the way rather than at risk of being hit by your ankle or the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a cheap pair of folding kickstands and disprefer them to the VOs. The problem with the cheap one was that the plastic &quot;boots&quot; on them fell off easily as they were not tightly fitted or easily secured with an allen screw.  The spring is also not as strong and the manufacturing tolerances greater so it &quot;clunked&quot; a lot when I rode over bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it looks like you're in &lt;strike&gt;Australia&lt;/strike&gt; Russia so the VO may not be available to you. Still, I'd ask at your local bike store if they have a high quality version similar to the VO. The VO is US$33 so this gives you a sense of how much you should pay for good kickstand -- but be aware that some unscrupulous ebay vendors will charge ridiculous amounts of money for cheap merchandise in the hopes of catching a rube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T17:54:31.527" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T17:54:31.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30701" CreationDate="2015-05-20T18:11:32.310" Score="5" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few vacant lots around where I live and last weekend, I built a small (170m) tape delimited course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the kids in the neighborhood rode in it. I also worked out in it, going full tilt for 30 minutes (ie. 36 laps in 30min, 6.2km). Some portions were up a grade, others went down a grade. There were a few areas that were quite tight to turn around in, but otherwise, it seemed alright. This lead me to search for possible standards in this area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there were guidelines or standards for building such courses in terms of lane width, turning areas and such? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit #1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what our course looked like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sMaAj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corner in this image was quite hard for everyone - which could just be testament for our skill level :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal isn't to be a UCI event, just looking to give my kids some more experience riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15752" LastEditorUserId="15752" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T11:29:36.290" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T11:29:36.290" Title="Guidelines for building tape delimited MTB courses" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30700" CreationDate="2015-05-20T18:35:46.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Have a look at UCI's MTB rules at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/72/76/MTBReglementsENG_English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/72/76/MTBReglementsENG_English.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for &quot;course marking&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T18:35:46.397" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30675" CreationDate="2015-05-20T19:20:40.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are essentially no rides that are 'unimpeded by pedestrian or car traffic' around Brooklyn, because Brooklyn is on a densely-populated island adjacent to another even more densely populated island so there's no nearby countryside, and we still use our rail lines very heavily so there are no rail trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 30-miler I've found with the most 'open road' feeling is heading to Breezy Point on side streets through Flatbush— take something like E. 35th Street down to Marine Park, then take the bike trail along Flatbush Ave. to the Marine Parkway bridge and Rockaway Point Boulevard. There are very few lights between the Flatbush Ave. bike trail and the tip of Breezy Point, so about half of the ride is unimpeded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually loop back via the Belt Parkway bike trail and take Bedford Avenue back north.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, something like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Prospect+Park,+Brooklyn,+NY/Beach+227th+St,+Breezy+Point,+NY+11697/@40.6275278,-73.9439275,13z/data=!4m34!4m33!1m25!1m1!1s0x89c25b1087680443:0x178bf7c600df7a98!2m2!1d-73.968956!2d40.660204!3m4!1m2!1d-73.9620066!2d40.6631979!3s0x89c25b0d7ded003b:0xc1bbc03310eefdd0!3m4!1m2!1d-73.9476347!2d40.6597135!3s0x89c25b655fbe3f19:0x2445bed892551a5c!3m4!1m2!1d-73.9438733!2d40.6425748!3s0x89c25b5a445c57a3:0xa1b0241726698868!3m4!1m2!1d-73.9313515!2d40.6063921!3s0x89c2436130911e41:0x34bf5c3bfeec3860!1m5!1m1!1s0x89c243fe55767105:0x64ffd3f4302f0ba6!2m2!1d-73.9328573!2d40.5524677!3e1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Prospect+Park,+Brooklyn,+NY/Beach+227th+St,+Breezy+Point,+NY+11697/@40.6275278,-73.9439275,13z/data=!4m34!4m33!1m25!1m1!1s0x89c25b1087680443:0x178bf7c600df7a98!2m2!1d-73.968956!2d40.660204!3m4!1m2!1d-73.9620066!2d40.6631979!3s0x89c25b0d7ded003b:0xc1bbc03310eefdd0!3m4!1m2!1d-73.9476347!2d40.6597135!3s0x89c25b655fbe3f19:0x2445bed892551a5c!3m4!1m2!1d-73.9438733!2d40.6425748!3s0x89c25b5a445c57a3:0xa1b0241726698868!3m4!1m2!1d-73.9313515!2d40.6063921!3s0x89c2436130911e41:0x34bf5c3bfeec3860!1m5!1m1!1s0x89c243fe55767105:0x64ffd3f4302f0ba6!2m2!1d-73.9328573!2d40.5524677!3e1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want easy access to 'real' road riding from the city, you'll probably want to live in Northern Manhattan or the Bronx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T19:20:40.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30695" CreationDate="2015-05-20T21:49:29.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shimano warrants to the original retail purchaser that the Shimano bicycle division product for which they received this warranty, is free from non-conformities in material and workmanship for a period of two years (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can read in Shimano's North America &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/news-and-info/warranty.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;homepage&lt;/a&gt;. So if you bought this new, go there and complain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes with proper maintenance should last for a few good years even on an daily usage basis, and Shimano's are known for their reliability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bought them used or did something you shouldn't (incorrect oil for ex), you can try to get them fixed, but since they're around $35 each, lever and caliper, I'de just buy new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T21:49:29.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30602" CreationDate="2015-05-21T03:50:51.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you buy anything,make sure the shifter is adjusted corectly. Put the bike on a stand or whatever it takes to allow the pedals and the rear wheel to move freely. The adjustment should be made from the second highest gear (the second smallest Which is the second from the outside). Tighten the adjuster until the chain makes noise trying to shift into the third gear,then back it off until the noise stops.&#xA; If that doesn't solve the problem,see if the derailleur or the hanger is bent. There could be many reasons for ghost shifting but if the shifters seem to work smoothly then personally I would not suspect the cables or worry about friction on the cable guide. Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19555" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T03:50:51.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30257" CreationDate="2015-05-21T03:54:03.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same here, I could not find them anywhere and I tried hard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 2015 Allez Pro has these wheels and they are great, slightly heavy but a solid all around performer! I'm happy with them and pretty sure they are made for specialized because they don't exist online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19587" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T10:06:10.870" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T10:06:10.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30257" CreationDate="2015-05-21T04:05:09.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference between the Racing 3 and the racing S3 is that the racing S3 is a 35mm deep aero wheel and the racing 3 is a more shallow lighter wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19587" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T04:05:09.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30738" CreationDate="2015-05-21T06:18:12.993" Score="4" ViewCount="1443" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Japan, how are bicycles supposed to turn right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, new rules have been decided in 2015, and there is a specific way to turn to the right at a crossroad, depending whether there are traffic lights or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-06-12T22:49:12.223" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T22:49:12.223" Title="How to turn right in Japan" Tags="&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;japan&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30719" CreationDate="2015-05-21T08:32:00.807" Score="16" ViewCount="2224" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've been looking to become a triathlete soon and I'm hearing all this talk about power meters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, upon googling I found vague information which is why I came here. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.joefrielsblog.com/2012/01/why-you-need-a-power-meter.html&quot;&gt;Exhibit A&lt;/a&gt;. That article gives me some sort of idea but it's not good enough, questions that remain unanswered are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this another toy to measure data when you train so you know &lt;strong&gt;how you've trained&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it help in any way &lt;strong&gt;during a training session&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More details&amp;hellip; how does it all work? There are heart rate zones and I'm told to run/cycle in a certain zone &lt;strong&gt;while training&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;hellip; anything similar for power meters?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lastly and most importantly, I am a beginner/intermediate (ran a few mediocre run and cycle races).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Will a sports watch (say Garmin Forerunner 920xt with the run HRM) be good enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15895" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T11:29:43.107" LastActivityDate="2020-01-06T20:46:11.057" Title="What is a power meter and why do I need one?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;power&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30709" CreationDate="2015-05-21T09:00:22.253" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;They do help with training and racing but they are also very expensive. As you say you are a beginner I imagine increases in fitness/strength (and therefore speed) are going to come fast anyway, even without a power readout to base training around.  I would definitely invest in a HRM though and make sure the bike computer you use has cadence as well as speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of specific questions, most are covered by the article you linked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, but it can be a useful one. Knowing what is working for you and what isn't can help guide training.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, you can plan sessions on power and make sessions repeatable without having differences like weather/route affect the intensity. Intervals can be done to specific ranges of intensity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As for how it works, there are different systems. Some (like the powertap systems) are based in the rear hub and measure the force at the back wheel. Others take their readings from the cranks. Some (eg Garmin vector) take force readings from the pedals. Generally the ones at the crank end of the drivetrain also allow analysis of left/right balance as well as overall power. Some (the cheaper version of the Garmin vector) measure the force on a single side and multiply by two. While cheaper, this isn't as accurate as most people won't be applying power exactly equally through both legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the actual sessions, I've not used one but I think the basis is the same as for training with HR. Intervals/intensities are based around your max power (IIRC it's generally based on max power for an hour). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See above. I wouldn't invest in one at this stage. Train without one for now and you will still see vast improvements. After a while if you find yourself getting more into it or your progress slows, think about it again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't do triathlons so can't comment on the best devices for it but for cycling, I have a Garmin 810 that has everything I need (and supports a power meter if I ever choose to get one). The 510 also has a similar set of features and I've heard good things about them. Having speed, HR and cadence in front of me when training is useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some useful reviews of different systems are on the all-encompassing site of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/?s=power&quot;&gt;DCRainmaker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6726" LastEditorUserId="6726" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T09:15:15.040" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T09:15:15.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30709" CreationDate="2015-05-21T09:28:43.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read, adding a power meter betters measuring HR only, for some reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heat, diet and stress can affect your HR. A low HR might be an indicator that you are in good shape. You can have a high HR and your power output be low&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An increase in power implies better performance, but an increase in HR does not necessarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is good to combine both for serious training, to determine you are getting good: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low HR and normal or high power compared to previous training would mean good condition.&#xA;High HR and high power would mean you're still getting better&#xA;Low HR and low power would mean problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, HRM tells you about the workload your body is sustaining, while power meter tells you about how is your body performing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a record of how your power output evolves through your training season would be more useful than knowing your HR. You can establish some power output you want to reach, and some days you'll get that power with less or more HR. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Concepts taken from the book &lt;em&gt;The Cyclist's Training Bible&lt;/em&gt; by Joe Friel, which mentions a book on the subject: &lt;em&gt;Training and Racing with a Power Meter&lt;/em&gt; by H. Allen and A. Coggan)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastEditorUserId="18463" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T12:31:20.437" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T12:31:20.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13290" CreationDate="2015-05-21T11:11:00.593" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/PA/Item.aspx?item=839737&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikepedia.com/PA/Item.aspx?item=839737&lt;/a&gt; i found this site after googling bar tape 36 yards- better value and less shady! this works out at about £69 so 6.90 a bar tape change? but i sure you can get it cheaper :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19590" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T11:11:00.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29276" CreationDate="2015-05-21T11:57:56.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine don't click. I have a red twisty knob on the bottom of the right leg.  The settings on mine only seem to take effect around the full mark. I back it off from  full to suit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19592" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T09:18:58.530" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T09:18:58.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30715" CreationDate="2015-05-21T12:13:04.933" Score="2" ViewCount="3310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the choice of buying a 114 or a 116 link chain for the same price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would I not buy the longer one and shorten it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case my bike previously had 108 links, and assuming that was correct, 114 should be sufficient, but given it may need shortened, is it not worth buying the longer chain just in case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14129" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T00:05:32.763" Title="Why should you not just buy the chain with more links?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30714" CreationDate="2015-05-21T12:17:43.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your old chain was sized appropriately for your drivetrain, and you're not changing anything, then you're going to shorten the new chain to the length of the old chain (via counting links, or lying the chains on the ground and pinching them together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you throw the remaining links into your tool box in case of needing them as spares for a repair in the future. Eventually, you have enough spare links in your tool box and you start throwing the spare links away when you get a new chain (or better yet, as Kibbee suggests, donate them to a bike co-op/shop). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it doesn't matter which one you buy in the long run -- the chain just has to be long enough to begin with (unless its a bike which needs a longer chain, like a tandem in which case you need to buy 2 chains and combine them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T12:46:50.607" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T12:46:50.607" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30714" CreationDate="2015-05-21T12:45:03.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that both these are from different manufacturers, or maybe slightly different product lines (DuraAce vs. Ultegra).  I can't think of why a manufacturer would bother shipping 2 identical chains with one only having 2 links more than the other. Choose one based on some other criteria such as which brand you trust more, or which is actually supposed to be better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T12:45:03.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30714" CreationDate="2015-05-21T13:40:13.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go for the 116 link chain just so that you have a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; extra spare in case something goes wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19595" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T13:40:13.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30690" CreationDate="2015-05-21T13:42:39.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to have shorts that cover my knees when mountain biking but I still wear spandex sometimes. Some of those shorts have cushion built in too and since we aren't generally trying to go 100+ miles, there is not a huge need for aerodynamics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19595" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T13:42:39.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30709" CreationDate="2015-05-21T13:51:37.940" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you say you're &lt;em&gt;looking to become a triathlete soon&lt;/em&gt; it's &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; too early to be thinking of advanced training aids like power meters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first few things to do (not necessarily in this order) are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;join a tri club&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;enter a triathlon or two&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;join a tri training squad&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;observe your (comparative) strengths and weaknesses&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;get a well recommended triathlon book. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use a GPS app for recording and comparing your training and race efforts (eg Strava, mapmyride)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use a heart rate monitor to help find and track your training levels&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to spend lots of money in the first blush of enthusiasm, only to find later that it was wasted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it a little slower, and make sure you're getting good advice. When talking up a new sport it's easy to go about it the wrong way and cause early injuries, or develop poor habits or techniques that cause long term problems. This applies to all three triathlon legs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the cycling leg, you need to get cycling advice from a seasoned triathlete. Triathlon cycling is &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; different to normal road racing, especially as the distances increase. You'll be trying to avoid using the muscle groups that provide the drive for the run leg, using a much lower cadence than a roadie would, and using a different bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time to consider a power meter is when you're at the stage where you have a training bike and a race bike, and both are worth more than your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T13:51:37.940" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30662" CreationDate="2015-05-21T13:54:50.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. No it's not going to be comfortable. You're more likely to slip off the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One alternative is to get double sided pedals where one side of the pedal has an SPD mount and the other side is a flat pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been running Shimano M324 pedals on my commuter so I can hop on with casual shoes or use my cycling shoes for more power on longer rides. It's the worst of both worlds, so you'll find yourself trying to flip the pedal from time to time, but it's a doable option that gives you flexibility without having to swap pedals all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y1DlK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I don't know of any other type of shoe / cleat combination that works with dual sided pedals. It seems that only shimano mountain SPD seems to offer this option. If you're already sold on road pedals, then it's probably not going to work like this.  You might just want to invest in a set of flat pedals and swap your pedals when you want to ride without clipless shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T14:03:52.230" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T14:03:52.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-21T15:41:33.467" Score="0" ViewCount="3309" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2015 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/jake_the_snake.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kona Jake the Snake&lt;/a&gt;e has Alex CXD6 wheelset installed, but i could not find any information is it for tubular, clincher or for both tire types ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has Challenge Grifo Comp 700x32c tires but apparently there are both tubular and clincher version of those available too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19599" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T20:04:35.063" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T16:18:05.197" Title="Alex CXD6 Wheelset Clincher or tubular?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30722" CreationDate="2015-05-21T15:56:05.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like they are tubeless compatible clincher rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8828" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T15:56:05.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30727" CreationDate="2015-05-21T17:55:26.487" Score="0" ViewCount="1841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a full suspension bike with rear spring-style suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the rear suspension too soft. How do I make it firmer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19602" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T23:38:11.497" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T23:38:11.497" Title="How do I adjust my rear coil suspension?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34539" CreationDate="2015-05-21T18:12:24.180" Score="1" ViewCount="887" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an 11 speed 12-25 cassette compatible with a SRAM drivetrain, however I don't think SRAM makes one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They list specs for their 11 speed cassettes as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;11-25: 11,12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,25 &#xA;11-26: 11,12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,26 &#xA;11-28: 11,12,13,14,15,16,17,19,22,25,28&#xA;11-30: 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,27,30 &#xA;11-32: 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,22,25,28,32&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any manufacturers that make a 12-25 that is compatible with SRAM? I'd also be interested in a 12-** cassette as long as it has an 18 tooth cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T21:13:05.660" Title="SRAM compatible 11 speed 12-25 cassette?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30740" CreationDate="2015-05-21T19:10:23.987" Score="1" ViewCount="3182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to replace my bent hub on my MTB. The hub is Novatec D042SB and the rim which I am going to order is Sun Ringle Inferno 25 29er. Since my hub is not so popular there are not any default dimensions available in online spoke calculator databases. I cannot take apart all the stuff on the wheel for precise measurements and that's why I have to ask for your help. I have used several calculators and all of them gave me different result ranging from 290mm to 294mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the dimensions of my hub in Novatec's official website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flange to Flange 58.4mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flange Diameter 58mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over Locknut 135mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Offset of centers 6.8 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rim ERD 602 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has experience with building a wheel, please help me to determine the exact length of the spoke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T23:20:50.363" Title="Help on calculating spoke length" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-31T05:50:40.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30724" CreationDate="2015-05-21T19:28:49.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With coil suspension you will need to purchase a new spring that is suited to your weight. Resistance comes from the spring so you need to purchase a heavier and thicker spring for harder suspension. There is usually a preload adjustment for fine tuning resistance but wouldn't change the feel drastically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most mid-high level suspension brands have a selection of springs (usually coloured for different weights) that you can purchase for different weight bands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air suspension allows you to adjust the pressure (volume) of air to change how soft it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T19:28:49.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30674" CreationDate="2015-05-21T19:42:51.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Click'R system allows for a more recessed cleat in the shoe. It is a very similar design to Shimano SPD but is marketed for commuters and trekkers who want dual purpose shoes for when they are on and off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also allow for multi-release meaning they offer a wider range of movement to release the cleat from the pedal making them easier to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T19:42:51.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30725" CreationDate="2015-05-21T20:03:55.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 11-25 will work fine with the SRAM components, the bigger question is whether your derailleur will handle the change in cassette range. Head to your local shop for specifics. It probably will, but that's the part you should go about verifying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T20:03:55.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30722" CreationDate="2015-05-21T20:10:45.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That wheelset includes clincher-style rims that are tubeless compatible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure not to confuse tubular with tubeless. Tubeless looks similar to a clincher (beads on each side, open on the bottom), but doesn't use an inner tube, while tubular is a single whole tube with tire and inner tube combined; these tubular need to be glued on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T15:02:36.737" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T15:02:36.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15623" CreationDate="2015-05-21T20:16:57.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, sounds like your kid is ready.  It can be more difficult to steer the bike straight without pedals so I would not read too much into that.   So go ahead and try the pedals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your child has to much trouble pedaling (intimidated, not having fun), then I'd suggest moving to a spot with a &lt;strong&gt;minor&lt;/strong&gt; gradient and point the bike down hill to make the coasting easier.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my daughter, 5, it helps to do a 'race' where I would start next to her and say ready, set, go.   Try that a few times just coasting then gradually build up the speed.  My daughter does not like to lose so she pedals and forgets about fears.  As your child gets better, add cones that she must steer around and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19604" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T20:16:57.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-21T21:16:56.910" Score="4" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on building a couple of wheels for a road/commuter bike. This is my first wheel building endeavor. I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 H Plus Son 700c, 36 hole wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Nuvinci n360, 2012 model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A set of TRP Hylex Hydraulic Disc Brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A front disc hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spokes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spoke nipples&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What length of spokes will I need? Is there a spoke length calculator out there that actually works?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any tips for me at I go through my first wheel build?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19606" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T23:59:42.850" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T17:12:18.270" Title="Wheel building for n360 + disc brakes on H Plus Son 700c, 36h" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8987" CreationDate="2015-05-21T22:19:37.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran into this problem after getting my bike back from a basic tune-up. It was especially bad for the 3 largest cogs. After over an hour of investigating and tinkering I discovered this gem from the &lt;em&gt;Shimano Derailleur Installation Manual&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some tension pulleys have an arrow on them to indicate the direction of rotation. In such cases, install the pulley so that the arrow is pointing clockwise when seen from the outer side of the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had to pull out a flashlight to see the tiny arrow, but it turns out the mechanic put my jockey wheel on backwards. After switching the direction of the jockey wheel, my problems immediately went away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an example image of the directional arrow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oe9R4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13706" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T23:58:32.650" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T23:58:32.650" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-21T22:21:35.107" Score="6" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this titanium frame some time ago. No markings, only the serial number on the bottom bracket. The 84 probably stands for 1984 as the bike was fitted with Campy's 50th Anniversary gruppo. The BB is Italian threaded. &#xA;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tNlvX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Frame&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jbrFg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom of bottom bracket showing cable guides and serial number&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19607" LastEditorUserId="5337" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T16:52:20.497" LastActivityDate="2020-09-04T04:07:15.777" Title="Does anyone recognize this titanium frame?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;titanium&gt;&lt;racing-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30708" CreationDate="2015-05-21T22:48:35.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this Tokyo Metro Police Department (警視庁 Keishichō) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keishicho.metro.tokyo.jp/kotu/bicycle/rule.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;web page on bicycle rules&lt;/a&gt;, the pet peeve of the authorities in Japan with regard to right turning cyclists is the practice of just going like cars through the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three cases are specified, which all share the common theme that the cyclist, second class creature that it is, must turn right by crossing the intersection twice, like a lowly pedestrian, and not like a vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGSrc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zGSrc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diagrams are self-explanatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At an intersection with no signals, look both ways, and proceed straight through. As you approach the other side, then turn right and cross again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At an intersection with signals, but no pedestrian/cyclist signals, proceed through the intersection (and swerve a bit toward the pedestrian crossing, according to the diagram). The accompanying text says you should walk your bicycle if the crossing is busy with pedestrians. Then wait, on the road, for the signal to change for the second crossing and then proceed, similarly to a vehicle (away from pedestrians).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At an intersection with pedestrian/cyclist signals, cyclists are expected to similarly cross twice, obeying those special signals, sticking to the bicycle section of the crossing.  The main difference is that waiting for the second crossing is done off-road, and then the crossing is carried like the first, with the pedestrians.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear whether the page incorporates any 2015 changes in rules, but it was modified in April 2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very last diagram makes it clear that bicycles are not to behave like motor vehicles. They should stick to the left. Even if there is a left-turning lane and they wish to go straight through the intersection, they must do so from that left-turning lane, and not from the adjacent lane which goes straight. Likewise, they must not occupy the right lane (from which it would be possible to turn right like a motor vehicle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5088" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2016-12-20T07:54:05.403" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T07:54:05.403" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="452" CreationDate="2015-05-21T23:01:23.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taught my four year old daughter to ride a two wheeler using training wheels. Wanted to try a balance bike, but a free bike fell in my lap that was perfect for her so I couldn't justify the expense of a balance bike. The key with training wheels that so many people don't do is that you need to raise them up slightly as the child gets used to riding on them so that they are resting on them less and less. We did small rides around the block rides for  about a week after I would get home from work and I would shift the training wheels up each night(I din't tell her btw). I announced to her that we would go to the park on the weekend and see if she could ride on the grass without the training wheels. On the ride to the park she rode and the training wheels never touched the ground. I popped them off once we got there and she was off and riding with just a slight push to get her started. She already understood about pedaling and braking so it was pretty simple at that point. The next step was to raise the seat little by little so that she could maximize power. A lower seat helps in the beginning but becomes a hinderance as they get better at mounting from a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19571" LastEditorUserId="19571" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T23:22:51.720" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T23:22:51.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30726" CreationDate="2015-05-21T23:20:50.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than quoting figures for the right and left flange distances from the Locknut centerline distance, they quote a &quot;flange to flange&quot; distance, along with an offset, for some mysterious reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image: &lt;a href=&quot;http://issuu.com/novatectaiwan/docs/novatec_hub_dimensions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://issuu.com/novatectaiwan/docs/novatec_hub_dimensions&lt;/a&gt; should help translate their &quot;Flange to Flange&quot; and offset figures to be right and left flange distances. In the case of this hub, your left and right flange distances are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Wl = (F.T.F/2 + Offset) = 36.00mm&#xA;Wr = (F.T.F/2 - Offset) = 22.40mm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the dt swiss calculator, I calculate 292 and 291mm spokes for building a triple-cross wheel with your selected components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T23:20:50.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-22T00:25:53.043" Score="2" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have those hybrid pedals that allow for both clipping in with cleats, and riding on flat pedals with ordinary shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I use my bike for cycling around the city, I mostly use the flats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm I'm finding though, is that when it's wet my shoes will slip of the pedals. I think it's because the clip in parts are slightly raised above the flat area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for mitigating this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10869" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T06:36:46.140" Title="Feet slip off flat/cleat hybrid pedals when it's wet" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30741" CreationDate="2015-05-22T01:44:37.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have observed, to get good traction for flats (especially in the wet) the pedals have to be grippy. To be able to rotate to enable the release of clipless shoes, the flats have to be slippery. Making the pedals grippy will mean unreliable release when using clipless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, do not try to fix it with DIY solutions such as grip tape, screwing plates onto the pedals or into the leading edges (sticking up)  - You will improve the problem you have, but likely create a worse one - you might well find yourself under a B-Train or off the side of a trail and down a bluff when you cannot release in a hurry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solutions are to accept the compromise solution, try the combination flats one side, clips the other which solves this problem (but generates others such as the pedal is never the right way up.), or commit to either flats or clipless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think the commitment to one or the other is the best solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30450/still-confused-about-clipless-walkable-shoes-and-dual-purpose-pedals&quot;&gt;This question (and many others)&lt;/a&gt; is worth reading if you want to consider other options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T05:07:32.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-22T04:47:48.443" Score="10" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is this lump in the picture and how does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BUJsA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have another pump, which physically is the same but minus the bulge.  The one in the picture seems to perform better, ie less work to reach the same pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19608" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T00:07:31.547" Title="Bike pump: what is this lump?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30794" CreationDate="2015-05-22T07:46:12.853" Score="2" ViewCount="2235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am upgrading my MTB to disc brakes.&#xA;I have disc compatible wheels and a set of Shimano M446 Postmount callipers and 160mm rotors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front fork is a Manitou who decided to jump on the Postmount wagon pretty early, so setting up the front was straightforward. Mount the disc to the wheel, calliper to the frame and align everything. Done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear disc mount is 51mm IS, therefore I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bike24.com/p24235.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano rear IS to Postmount adapter&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;I mounted the rear 160mm disc to the wheel and installed the wheel, making sure it sits nice and straight in the dropouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to mount the rear calliper to the adapter, I noticed it doesn't fit. The adapter is a couple of mm too far to the left, so the calliper bolts will not fit. When looking from above, the disc and adapter are not parallel. The adapter itself is not damaged and is straight. The problem is with the IS disc mounts on the frame itself, they seem to be at a (slight) angle and not parallel with the disc. Using spacers to solve the problem is not an option, because of the angle between calliper and disc. As far as I know the bike has no crash damage and there are no signs of damage anywhere near the disc mounts. Probably something went wrong with manufacturing the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of a steel frame I could carefully bend the disc mounts back to be parallel with the disc, however as this is aluminium I am a afraid of damaging the frame. What are my options? Can I attempt to fabricate asymmetric spacers that will cancel the angle difference?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14562" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T11:32:39.927" Title="Rear disc calliper won't fit, disc mount bent?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30747" CreationDate="2015-05-22T09:21:24.170" Score="8" ViewCount="7080" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do self-sealing inner tubes work? I understand it protects against objects up to a certain length, but do I need to still remove the offending object &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt;? Or do I need to leave it in? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they generally reliable and worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13775" LastActivityDate="2020-04-04T04:55:23.340" Title="How do self-sealing inner tubes work?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30743" CreationDate="2015-05-22T11:07:21.193" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This from an old article circa 1996 it references a Medai floor pump. &quot;Screwed into the base near the compression tube is an air tight steel chamber. This chamber is known as a reservoir and holds a volume of the compressed air to assist in equalizing the pressure of the pumps compression chamber and the inner tube. This feature gives the tire a small assist in time as it &quot;seats&quot; on the rim.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T00:07:31.547" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T00:07:31.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30745" CreationDate="2015-05-22T13:23:06.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Self-sealing tubes are filled (well, not completely filled) with a sealant, similar to this used to seal tubeless tyres. When a wheel is spinning, sealant is distributed evenly around the tube, and when the puncture occurs, the sealant should be able to stop the air from leaking. They are quite reliable for small punctures (say, up to 5mmm at a time) but the sealant may lose its properties after a few months so I'd be careful with these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And whether you need to remove the puncturing object, well it depends. If it's small and could progres into a tube it's better to remove it immediately before the hole increases. And when it's large (say, a larger nail) it could sometimes help stop the leak. However there's no strict rule here, and you have to check what works better in each situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T13:23:06.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30750" CreationDate="2015-05-22T13:33:42.483" Score="9" ViewCount="2219" Body="&lt;p&gt;During one of this week's stages of the Giro d'Italia, Richie Porte had a 'technical' issue with his bike that caused him to lose a number of minutes from the peloton. It was of significance as it was less than 10k from the finish and as a result was always going to be difficult for him to regain the time lost on the other GC contenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His team mates obviously did their best to pull him pack to the rest of the group. This included the whole team &lt;strong&gt;drafting behind one of the Team Sky cars&lt;/strong&gt; for a period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &lt;strong&gt;Why is this allowed?&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;Surely he/they are gaining an unfair advantage over the rest of the riders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addtionally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it have been the same if he'd have fallen off 10k from the start line?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would he have been allowed to do so if he was two minutes in front of the peloton when he crashed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is it decided what drafting is appropriate, and what penalties are handed out when it is deemed the riders gained some advantage they were otherwise unentitled to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18733" LastEditorUserId="6407" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T23:42:38.997" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T23:42:38.997" Title="Why are riders allowed to draft behind cars in Grand Tours?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;race&gt;&lt;drafting&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-22T13:37:16.653" Score="1" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out if I can make a replacement part for an old pair of Marzocchi MX Pro 2003 forks. Its part of the rebound damping rod and is the metal bit in this photo on the top where the hex rod is sticking out. Does anyone have more info about this piece?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/95iSn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5953" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T13:37:16.653" Title="Missing valve part from Marzocchi MX Pro 2003- how does it work?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30748" CreationDate="2015-05-22T14:00:58.773" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not allowed by UCI rules, but comissars usually allow it if it is due to mechanical reasons and used to get back to the peloton, since they have discretional ability to decide. Time penalties or disqualification if used to gain advantage over the peloton. So, rule enforcement may vary depending on many circumstances, and I guess they don't want to lose stars like Froome, that could also be important when turning a blind eye on some minor issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T14:00:58.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30674" CreationDate="2015-05-22T18:06:36.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option to that new system is the existing SPD system with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano-lifestylegear.com/us/fw/products/accessory/cleat.php?pSccleat002&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Multi-Directional&quot; cleat (SM-SH56)&lt;/a&gt;.  This cleat just makes the step-in and release a little easier than the standard cleat (no numbers on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage (over the Click'R) is that it's using the tried-and-true SPD system, and when you get comfortable with that cleat, you can replace it with the standard cleat for a more secure connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleat may not be as recessed as the Click'R, but with standard MTB shoes there's usually enough shoe tread around the cleat to provide normal walking (I've never had a problem slipping on my cleat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T18:06:36.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30754" CreationDate="2015-05-22T20:12:12.760" Score="4" ViewCount="16927" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I have on my bike the Shimano 105 system (2 years old) with 10 speed cassette. Currently I am buying a new wheelset (Fulcrum Racing zero) made for Shimano 11 cassette. I was told that I can use my 10 speed cassette but I was planing to upgrade to 11 speed cassette in the future. Is the Shimano 11 speed cassette that comes with the latest Shimano 105 compatible with older 105 systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apologize in advance if I don't make myself too clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19616" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2017-12-04T21:03:22.050" LastActivityDate="2017-12-04T21:03:22.050" Title="Shimano 105 10 and 11 speed compatibility" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30752" CreationDate="2015-05-22T20:35:00.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to go from Shimano 10 speed road to 11 speed road, you'll need a new cassette, new shifters, a new chain and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2015/03/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-10-11-speed-drivetrain-component-compatibility_362722&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;new rear derailleur&lt;/a&gt;, since the cable pull ratios have changed (again). Zinn also notes that 10 speed FD might not shift as nicely as 10 speed FD with the 11 speed shifters, so may as well throw one of those in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in the drive train, essentially all you'd be wanting to keep is the crank if you want to go from Shimano 10 speed road to Shimano 11 speed road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T20:35:00.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29178" CreationDate="2015-05-23T01:12:40.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original Sturmey-Archer 2 speed kick-back hubs are coaster brake hubs and do not allow much movement backwards before the braking happens.  Track standing on a coaster brake would be tricky because the pedal position would always rotate in the direction of travel and you would eventually end up at the dreaded 12 o'clock position.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/catalog/files/291/MANUAL%20-%202%20SPEED%20KICK%20SHIFT%20HUBS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;new versions&lt;/a&gt; have two models;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;◎ Type S2 2-speed freewheel hub ,without brake&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;◎ Type S2C, B2C 2-speed hubs ,with coaster brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19615" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T23:45:07.173" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T23:45:07.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30569" CreationDate="2015-05-23T04:45:57.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is something rubbing the tire. Brake pads are the likely suspect. Does the tire look like this all the way around? On both sides? On front &amp;amp; rear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T04:45:57.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30569" CreationDate="2015-05-23T06:20:34.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be from one of those bike stands which hold the bicycle just by its front wheel (which is also bad for the wheel of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I also think it’s more likely that the brake pads or maybe even the frame (if it’s a tight road bike frame) are rubbing. Is it the back wheel? Maybe it only happens under heavy load because the frame or wheel gets twisted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sEiOg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bicycle stand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T06:20:34.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30760" CreationDate="2015-05-23T12:43:38.567" Score="0" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 183 cm / 100 kg (220 lbs) and was thinking of buying a bike. I was looking at the following models:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trek Bike 7.4FX (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/city/fitness/fx/7_4_fx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/city/fitness/fx/7_4_fx/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giant Escape RX3 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://giant.co.jp/giant12/bike_datail.php?p_id=00000044&amp;amp;action=outline&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://giant.co.jp/giant12/bike_datail.php?p_id=00000044&amp;amp;action=outline&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are these two models strong enough to hold me?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am planning to ride the bike on roads only, but maybe a dirt road or a road with cracks or even holes once in a while. Are the tires strong enough?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tires are 700-32C. Can I say the wider the tire the stronger?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am not sure about the absolute weight limit. Can you find it? Is it 125 kg / 275 lbs? (Maybe I want to put some stuff on it. That's why I'm asking.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I need a weight limit to up to 136 kg / 300 lbs, do I need to consider a mountain bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19622" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T10:12:33.870" Title="Cross-Bike for my size / weight" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-23T13:58:12.327" Score="6" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where i can purchase this iconic poster? I've searched the most obvious websites. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19623" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T08:07:54.530" Title="&quot;Le vélo de Tati” - Jacques Tati by Robert Doisneau" Tags="&lt;accessories&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30758" CreationDate="2015-05-23T14:03:04.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mountain bike is not going to be inherently stronger. &#xA;If anything a larger frame triangle is stronger.&#xA;On a mountain bike you have a long seat post that is a point of failure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recall seeing weight limits posted for bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a touring bike as they are designed to handle a load. &#xA;Or an expedition bike. &#xA;I would go with a high quality steel or titanium bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some wheels will post weight like Stans posts weight for some of the wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And larger tires do take more weight.  You always see larger tires on touring bikes.  Weight = contact area X psi.  A larger tire generates a larger contact area with less deformation.  A larger tire protects the rims.  The wheel still must bear the weight but the rim is cushioned from that ding associated with pinch flat.       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With light use I suspect those bikes would be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Trek up to 300 should be OK.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/support/faq/question/is_there_a_weight_limit_for_your_bikes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Is there a weight limit for your bikes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are targeting 300 lbs then consider some more expensive bikes. Like a Salsa Vaya or even more $ a Moots Routt 45.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T14:20:31.543" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T14:20:31.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30906" CreationDate="2015-05-23T15:20:29.130" Score="4" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an old Eastman ten-speed. It's got 700x23 tires on steel rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The walls of both rims bend out slightly, maybe 10 degrees each. I'm not sure if they were built that way, or if they've bent slowly over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know if this bike is safe to ride with the tires at 80-100 psi. I don't want the (front) rim to explode at 40mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the fact that they are steel (instead of aluminum) remove the risk of a blowout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5LLCi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;steel rim&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T14:44:31.193" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T08:11:35.837" Title="Are these steel rims safe?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30761" CreationDate="2015-05-23T16:12:46.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some old wheels do not have a hook to hold the tire bead, which limits you to around 70 PSI. Straight wall or a slight flare, doesn't matter, 100 PSI is not doable without the hook, afaik. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_wheel#Clincher_rims&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia says the hooks were invented in the 70s&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the tire will come off within an hour or two, and the tire will pop off with a bang as the tube explodes. With straight walled rims, I think 700x23 tires are unusable. There may be some uncommon rim design that I'm not familiar with, but if your rim wall looks more or less flat, it's not going to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the fact that they are steel makes blowout more likely if anything, because they are more likely the old design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they have a hook on the rim, I would ride them after I let it stand for a day, but steel wheels really do suck for braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4962" LastEditorUserId="4962" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T16:46:24.947" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T16:46:24.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30763" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-23T16:57:22.667" Score="5" ViewCount="5196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at a couple of cruiser bikes on Craigslist.  I want to take them to my beach house for guests.  How can I tell if the rims and spokes are steel or aluminum?  The steel spokes on an expensive cruiser recently started rusting and popping and I don't want that to happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19626" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T21:37:58.127" Title="Steel vs Aluminum Spokes and Rims" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;steel&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-23T17:12:57.213" Score="2" ViewCount="5928" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Peter Sagan's FTP and 5 second power differ hugely from someone like Mark Cavendish or is Mark Cavendish close in his FTP power range but not world class like Sagan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Mark Cavendish is 70kg and Peter Sagan is a reported 74kg? What prompts this question is the performances of Peter Sagan during stages 6 and 7 of the tour of California where he managed a very high placing. Despite being labelled as a sprinter and classics rider in a Shaun Kelly mould.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastEditorUserId="452" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T12:23:18.367" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T11:06:13.100" Title="Has anyone ever tried to estimate peter sagans ftp and 5 sprint power, if so what would they look like?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-04-02T07:03:51.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30766" CreationDate="2015-05-23T17:24:36.210" Score="41" ViewCount="157240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like they save some weight, but how do they have a better strength/weight ratio than a traditional two legged fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFKmO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the single-legged fork the fork and axle must resist huge bending all the time, producing even more of a problem than with the 2-legged fork under uneven compression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how is this fork constructed and what advantages and disadvantages does this bring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19624" LastActivityDate="2021-04-16T09:37:33.653" Title="Pros and cons of single-sided forks (Cannondale Lefty)?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;&lt;lefty-fork&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30765" CreationDate="2015-05-23T17:24:36.210" Score="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;The single-legged fork must truly withstand heavier bending forces than conventional forks, simply due to physics and asymmetricity. But because of its different construction, the fork is actually stiffer than most 2-legged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Pros&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The top is attached like a dual crown downhill fork, which is much stiffer than a single-crown.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The wheel axle is one-piece with the bottom part, which is stiffer than a quick-release axle (which is not solid at all) and on same level as a 15 thru-axle or 20 thru-axle. This design is used also on cars where the wheel doesn't have support from the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference is inside. While normal forks have round tubes that slide on oil film, the Lefty uses needle bearings on a square profile (same as the front leg of Boeing airliners.):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kp1ld.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lefty fork, pulled out to show bearings&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Such solution works with almost same friction under heavy side-loads, whereas sliding tubes, when side-loaded (uneven compression of legs), do get friction losses (rolling resistance wins).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Having conventional fork with one leg wouldn't work, such a fork would get stuck. Having bearing-fitted 2-legged fork is an overkill and unnecessary weight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The heaviest Lefty is still lighter than lightest carbon 2-legged.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can replace the tire without removing the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cons&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you need to remove the front wheel, you need to remove the brake caliper also.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The axle works only with Cannondale hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The front of bike will look unbalanced until you get used to it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pre-2013 models of Lefty are not sealed, having the bearings track just under a rubber sleeve. This required almost constant maintenance. Post-2013 models have a rubber-sealed leg with bearings further inside and with one plain bearing at the bottom which allows for service intervals as normal forks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNMWe.png&quot; alt=&quot;image of pre- and post-2013 Lefties&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Previous models, as some bikers on forums complained, had more linear action: they were easier to bottom than normal forks. So now the newer ones should have more progressive compression. (This is opinion based, but quite a lot of it online, there are no measurements.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A Lefty is much harder to service than a normal fork. You need a couple of special tools, and the assembly is complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19624" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T16:49:19.000" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T16:49:19.000" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-23T17:46:49.477" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very much a novice when it comes to mountain biking. By novice I mean I have absolutely no experience of this. I have two questions &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there any trails within commute from Manchester that are suitable for novices?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is my bike suitable for trail work? &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tFB4Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the bike is very hard to control on the trails. I'm constantly fighting with the bike to keep it on the trail. I could hear the back wheel constantly being tortured. This bike was serviced by me under supervision of a qualified bike mechanic @ a bike repair class. However I found the brakes aren't really that effective on the trail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6996" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T06:16:50.240" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T10:32:16.663" Title="Beginner trails near Manchester UK" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2771" CreationDate="2015-05-23T20:04:54.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you don’t have any patches sticking to the tire and thus coming off it shouldn’t be much of a problem. Talcum helps, as others have pointed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was cleaning my cruiser today, and as part of that I removed the&#xA;  tires from the rims to give them a good scrubbing. As sometimes&#xA;  happens, the tubes were stuck to the insides of the tires. (This also&#xA;  happens with some of my other bikes sometimes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would you do that? Cleaning the rims and brake pads: Okay (though I’d still consider it a waste of effort), but you don’t have to remove the tire for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T20:04:54.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-23T21:18:38.063" Score="3" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1985 Peugeot P16 (mixte). The Weinmann 730 sidepull rear brake was located at the seatstay bridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Is it safe to relocate it to the gusset plate located behind the seat tube and attached to the intermediate stays (because i don't know the name of the head tube to rear drop out twin tubes!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake, with a spacer, will physically fit, but i don't know if it's the right thing to do. Seems this would leave the seat stay bridge for rack &amp;amp; fender mounting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19623" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T04:22:11.477" Title="Peugeot rear brake location" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;mixte&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-23T21:37:27.750" Score="2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Atax stem ('85 Peugeot). Original steel handlebars are 25 mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it prudent to spread the stem to accommodate  Nitto 25.4 randonneur bars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19623" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T22:45:37.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T04:16:01.737" Title="French handlebar fit" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9337" CreationDate="2015-05-23T22:21:56.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking into a similar thing today, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.de/en/faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pitlock FAQ&lt;/a&gt; specifically states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;If you have horizontal dropouts on your bike's rear wheel (horizontal and open at the rear), we dissuade you from using the Pitlock system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually (almost) all rear wheels are assembled in vertical dropouts (opening diagonally towards the bottom). Here the assembly with PITLOCK works without problems. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, the manufacturer states for track dropouts that you should not use Pitlock skewers. I suspect the same is true for other manufacturers, but I have not checked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for allen keys, its slightly harder than a quick release, but its safe to assume an allen key or hex nut or similar standard non-security skewer is not much safer than a quick release -- any thief can/will have tools to remove it very quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T22:21:56.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34409" CreationDate="2015-05-23T22:37:42.900" Score="3" ViewCount="1906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking into upgrading my current skewers to security skewers, e.g. Pitlock skewers (These are skewers which are designed so that its harder to remove a wheel without a specific key provided with the skewers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example is here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2e2rF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/pitlock.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peter White Cycles&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike has horizontal dropouts, but front facing (i.e. not a track forkend, in contrast to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9337/are-allen-key-or-security-key-skewers-appropriate-for-bikes-with-rear-facing-hor&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pitlock.de/en/faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pitlock FAQ&lt;/a&gt; states: &quot;If you have horizontal dropouts on your bike's rear wheel (horizontal and open at the rear), we dissuade you from using the Pitlock system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually (almost) all rear wheels are assembled in vertical dropouts (opening diagonally towards the bottom). Here the assembly with PITLOCK works without problems. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They specifically highlight track-style forkends, but not horizontal dropouts which open in the front. So, can Pitlock skewers be used safely with horizontal dropouts? If so, why can they be used safely with horizontal dropouts which are front facing, but not track forkends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the dropout types is here (mine is similar to the second one from the left on the top row):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RI3zd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(From Sheldon Brown)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Peter White page claims this is due to Pitlocks being unable to exert enough clamping force (similar to some aluminum QR skewers, since aluminum can't bite into the drop out enough), but Pitlocks are made from steel, so I'm still not sure why the track forkend was specifically highlighted by the manufacturer but horizontal dropouts were not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T00:35:52.497" Title="Security wheel skewers for front facing horizontal dropouts" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;skewer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30771" CreationDate="2015-05-23T22:44:40.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't try it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;70's french stems aren't &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/velos.html#stem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trustworthy&lt;/a&gt;, 80's &lt;a href=&quot;http://theheadbadge.blogspot.com/2012/08/death-stems-demystified-ava-and-atax.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;don't seem much better&lt;/a&gt; and weakening a stem isn't exactly worth the risk anyway (I'd opt for sanding it rather than spreading it to remove the necessary material instead if I had to, but I'd recommend getting a new stem instead). You'll probably scratch up your nice new bars too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to get the current stem out and replace it. If not going to come out, you may want to try sanding it, but I'd recommend just living with the existing bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T22:44:40.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28721" CreationDate="2015-05-23T22:58:34.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you remove the Nyon from your bike, don't turn it off, as removing it from the bike is its signal to transfer data by bluetooth to your phone. It then turns itself off automatically after 5 mins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19628" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2015-05-24T01:32:19.077" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T01:32:19.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-23T23:27:59.553" Score="3" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I crashed my bike and now every time I push on the front wheel a little, or if I turn the handle bar a little hard the wheel turns in the other direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could cause this and what can I do about it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19629" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T06:13:11.577" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T10:53:31.990" Title="Every time I move my handle bar left or right the wheel turns in different direction" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30776" CreationDate="2015-05-24T04:14:13.083" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the handlebar stem is loose. &lt;strong&gt;This is an extremely dangerous situation&lt;/strong&gt; and you should go immediately (pushing your bike or taking it in a car, but &lt;strong&gt;not riding it&lt;/strong&gt;) to your local bike shop to have it looked at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix is easy and should take less than 5 minutes (and only a few dollars/euro if they charge you at all), but again it is critical that you get this repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T03:38:00.177" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T03:38:00.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30771" CreationDate="2015-05-24T04:16:01.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why bother? It's much easier/cheaper/faster to get a replacement stem that can accommodate contemporary handlebar diameters. I replaced the AVA stem (nicknamed the &quot;Death Stem&quot; by Sheldon Brown in the link on Batman's answer) on my 1970s Peugot with a Velo-Orange stem and bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need is this: Velo Orange Threadless Stem Adapter (ST-0001; $16)&#xA; -- this will allow you to use any modern set of bars with your old forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T04:16:01.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-24T04:18:52.887" Score="7" ViewCount="4431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just recently bought a new bike with drop bars for my daily commute. It's great fun and actual feels quite comfortable after following a few fitment videos and guides online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is a single speed Kona Paddy Wagon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no pain or strain while riding, however at night the tendons on the of inside my elbow tighten up and get quite sore when used. It is really hard to pinpoint the pain, but it's not muscle, it's tendon. However the pain happens whenever I bend/flex my arm with the palm down or thumb up. When the palm is up, it doesn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not even 100% sure it's because of the bike, but the position my hand is in during the pain is basically the the hood position, so it makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had anyone experienced this? It's what I imagine tendonitis might feel like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my attempt at setting things up, I managed to take a couple photos, I don't know if they help or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/glbqy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;first attempt&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOyxG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;raised handlebars a little bit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11431" LastEditorUserId="11431" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T15:44:53.130" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T21:04:03.427" Title="Inner elbow/bicep tendon pain from drop bars?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30770" CreationDate="2015-05-24T04:22:11.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, on my 1975 Peugeot UO18, the brakes are located on the intermediate stays and the seat stays are used for the rack mount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brake configuration is visible here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1n41X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;(photo source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://oldtenspeedgallery.com/owner-submitted/joans-1975-peugeot-mixte-uo-18/#.VWFRtmDDz88&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://oldtenspeedgallery.com/owner-submitted/joans-1975-peugeot-mixte-uo-18/#.VWFRtmDDz88&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T04:22:11.477" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30783" CreationDate="2015-05-24T11:50:56.117" Score="6" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is just one of curiosity. I have a hard time visualizing this. How do internal hubs work? Does anyone have a cross cut image that is easy to understand? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T04:07:00.673" Title="How do internal hubs work" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30782" CreationDate="2015-05-24T14:34:52.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only scheme I know of is called planetary gears, or as Wikipedia calls it &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epicyclic_gearing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Epicyclic gearing&lt;/a&gt;. @Daniel suggests that there are other designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one of the images from Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kYPaL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Planetary gears&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inner gear is called the sun and the gears that go around that are called the planetary gears. In the basic design (the original Sturmey Archer design) the sun was fixed to the axle, and the pedals could either drive the assembly that the planets are on, or the outer ring. The wheel could be driven by the outer ring or the planetary assembly. A moving selector device controls the mechanism. The gear ratios were 1:2/3, 1:1, 1:3/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMZD0.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Sturmey Archer 3-gear classic hub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to @RoboKaren for editing in the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more details, see the Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sturmey-Archer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sturmey Archer&lt;/a&gt; page, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rohloff_Speedhub&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rohloff Speedhub&lt;/a&gt; page, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hub_gear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hub gear&lt;/a&gt; page. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T04:07:00.673" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T04:07:00.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30767" CreationDate="2015-05-24T17:50:11.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't comment on whether or not your bike is suitable for use on trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for trail in Manchester, Clayton Vale has some blue and red routes. They're not the best trails in the world (or the UK for that matter) but they're the best you'll get anywhere near the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're right by the velodrome and the Manchester City FC stadium. Here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Clayton+Vale/@53.4907337,-2.1764926,15z&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a1dap.png&quot; alt=&quot;Clayton Vale map&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastEditorUserId="1560" LastEditDate="2015-05-24T17:55:36.983" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T17:55:36.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-24T17:54:42.140" Score="0" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bicycle has a label saying  size 19&quot;  . What is the tire size for my bicycle  and the what is the  inner tube size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19635" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T20:48:49.307" Title="1996 Mongoose size 19&quot; Crossway 650 replacement size inner tube" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-05-24T21:48:26.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30785" CreationDate="2015-05-24T20:48:49.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/searchlistingdetail.aspx?id=59542&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Blue Book&lt;/a&gt;, this thing shipped with 700c wheels and 700x38 tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you need 700x38 tires (or something similar, e.g. 700x35) and a tube which is rated for 700x38 tires (these are sold by ranges, e.g. 700x38-45 tubes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T20:48:49.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-25T00:25:36.137" Score="8" ViewCount="1381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a pro and I have never taken a long bike trip before, but I think I am up to it. The trip is not going to be one-go. I'll stop for rest. I am thinking that if I do 10 miles a day, I should be at my destination in two weeks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really need help with the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to put myself through easier challenges/trainings before I embark on my planned trip? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What food and equipment do I need? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am travelling in between two cities in Mississippi. What should I be wary of? Or what can I expect?  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, any help will greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19637" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T06:45:41.270" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T00:04:50.567" Title="Help for a 169 mile bike ride" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;&lt;travelling&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30787" CreationDate="2015-05-25T00:50:11.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your greatest challenge will be keeping to &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; 10 miles (16 km) per day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not mention&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;any cycling experience &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;your fitness level&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you have a bike&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you expect to camp &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if you will cycle on roads&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;what you intend to spend.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A person in normal good health could expect, with a &lt;em&gt;little&lt;/em&gt; training, to ride 20 miles (32 km) before lunch and the same after lunch. So the entire trip could take four days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fitter person on a road bike, touring bike, or similar, could do it in three days. A fit and seasoned cyclist would be aiming at two days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So such a trip is certainly possible. If you update your question with answers to the above points, I'll update this answer to respond. And probably others will chime in also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also other similar questions on this site that you can check out. Look under the tags on the question, eg &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/long-distance&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;long-distance&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;long-distance&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T00:04:50.567" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T00:04:50.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30787" CreationDate="2015-05-25T02:30:11.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a specific term for this: Bicycle Touring.&#xA;I suggest you to get some information from online forums such as r/bicycletouring on reddit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, a bike tourist rides about 70-100km on the first few days of his/her tour. You mentioned that you go to the gym regularly, which is really good. I'm confident that you are healthy enough to accomplish your plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In sum, about your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) No you don't need training but you DO need to test your bike and gears since component failures in the actual trip would be disastrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The answer could be complicated. But you can eat carbs/fat/glucose such as boiled eggs, peanut butters, honey, etc. About the gear, at least, you need a rear rack. Also, you need to consider where you want to sleep: camping or a hotel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T17:26:47.470" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T17:26:47.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30787" CreationDate="2015-05-25T03:17:28.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not have a set schedule, and, in particular, you do not plan to cycle more than maybe 60 miles a day (through reasonably flat terrain) then anyone in decent shape can do a multi-day tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not say how you plan to be &quot;supported&quot; for this trip.  If you will be carrying all your own gear on the bike (&quot;self-contained&quot;) you need a decent bike with a reasonable rack and panniers, and you need good lightweight camping gear.  If someone in a car will be carrying your gear then you just need a halfway-reasonable road bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you plan to camp or use hotels, you will need to plan your route with stopping points -- while there are parts of the US where you can get away with just camping on the side of the road (or asking a farmer's permission to camp on his land), this probably not something you should plan on.  (Of course, if you are supported by car you can be transported back and forth between bike stops and nearby hotels.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frankly, the &quot;logistics&quot; is probably a far bigger problem for you than the actual biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T03:17:28.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30791" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-25T07:23:01.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rims are the outer portion of a wheel, the part between the spokes and the tire. Rims on a non-disc bike provide the surface that the brake pads squeeze against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T12:09:58.927" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T12:09:58.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30792" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-25T07:23:01.017" Score="0" Body="The outer edge of a wheel, holding the tire." OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T14:50:06.640" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T14:50:06.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30787" CreationDate="2015-05-25T10:22:52.837" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do I need to put myself through easier challenges/trainings before I embark on my planned trip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That depends. What is the farthest you've cycled in one go before now? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you skip your next gym visit and go for a 10 mile cycle. If that works out, take a 20 mile cycle the next time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What food and equipment do I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spare tube, tyre, mini-pump and tyre levers are essential. So is a helmet. Use winter tyres if you're expecting poor weather conditions or a lot of debris on the roads. (Winter tyres are more resistant to damage)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Panniers are quite nice, because carrying your gear on them is easier than a backpack and doesn't give you a sweaty back. A speedometer is also nice, because it gives you an easy way to see how you are doing (even the cheapest will have distance since reset and odometer functions). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water - however much you need so that you can have about 2 litres (half a gallon) per day. If you can refill multiple times a day, this probably means you're fine carrying one litre (~ 1 quart)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reasonably energy dense foods - Nuts, bananas, etc... &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am travelling in between two cities in Mississippi. What should I be wary of? Or what can I expect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with the area, so I can't help specifically with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're camping and it gets cold overnight, make sure you have something tasty, energy dense, non-perishable and OK to eat cold. When you wake up cold and your gear is cold, you need some food to help you warming up. Nuts are good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19639" LastEditorUserId="19639" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T08:36:07.840" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T08:36:07.840" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30744" CreationDate="2015-05-25T11:32:39.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a tool call a disc brake tab facing tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tZI7K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;DT 1.2 Disc Brake Tab Tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tool is designed to correct the alignment of IS disc brake tabs with the dropouts of the frame, so that the rotor will be correctly aligned with the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See instructions below from Park Tool Repair Help Blog:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disc Brake Mount Facing (IS type) with DT-1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This article will discuss the use the Park Tool DT-1 Disc Brake Mount Facing Tool. The DT-1 is a precision tool system designed to machine disc brake mounts flat, parallel, and in the same plane.   Use of the DT-1 helps ensure proper disc brake setup and performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DT-1 includes everything needed to face the disc brake mounts on frames using 10mm axles and forks using 9mm axles.   It also includes special adapter bushings to allow facing of disc brake mounts on frames using 12mm through axles and forks using 20mm through axles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j9aO7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a precision cutting tool, the DT-1 should be used and stored with extreme care.   Always liberally apply cutting fluid (we recommend Park Tool CF-2 Cutting Fluid) to the brake mount and cutting teeth of the facer during each use. Components should be kept clean and the facing cutter should be periodically wiped with an oily cloth or rust inhibitor before storage, especially in a damp or humid environment.   Store the DT-1 in its original packaging or other safe location.   Like all cutting tools, the facing cutter included with the DT-1 should be periodically replaced or sharpened by a qualified technician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Installation of tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;135mm Rear Frames: Insert the longer axle into the body of the DT-1. The axle pinch bolt should face to the back. The side of the axle with the C-clip goes to the dropout side. Install the axle fully into frame and secure axle. NOTE: Bikes with 130mm spacing will easily flex open to accept the 135mm axle for purposes of facing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ie7O5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;135mm frame with 10mm axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100mm Forks with 9mm Axles: Insert the shorter axle into the body of the DT-1. The axle pinch bolt should face to the back. The side of the axle with the C-clip goes to the dropout side. Install the axle fully into frame and secure axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tSyur.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;100mm wide fork, with 9mm axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12mm Axle Rear frame: Insert axle through left side dropout, through 12mm ID spacer, and through DT-1 body. Smaller end of spacer fits into body of DT-1. Secure frame axle. Push body of DT-1 to the left until spacer contacts dropout. Secure axle pinch bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBs3b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;12mm rear through axle with DT-1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20mm Through Axle Forks: Insert axle through side dropout, through body of DT-1 and through 20mm ID spacer. Smaller end of spacer faces left side of fork (disc mount side). Push body of DT-1 to left until spacer contacts dropout. Secure axle pinch bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mhpxm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;20mm through axle with spacer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Facing Procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assemble DT-1 into bike as described above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen knob setscrew. Slide knob to end of facing cutter shaft, next to 10mm hex.   Tighten knob setscrew.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen pinch bolt and pivot bolt just enough to allow lower body and upper body to pivot and slide on axle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slide body against retaining ring or bushing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert cutter through lower hole of body.   Insert piloted tip of cutter fully into hole of brake mount.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten pinch bolt and pivot bolt to lock position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn knob clockwise while applying hand pressure to face surface of brake mount.   Remove only enough material to create a clean, flat cut around the face of the mount.   NOTE:   For speed and leverage, a ratcheting wrench with a 10mm socket can be used to turn the 10mm hex head on the cutter .&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rzbaQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With teeth of cutter contacting face of brake mount, loosen knob setscrew and slide knob on shaft of cutter until contact is made with body.   Tighten setscrew.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xL2PH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull knob and cutter from lower hole and insert through upper hole. Loosen pinch bolt and/or pivot bolt to fit piloted tip of cutter fully into hole of brake mount, then retighten.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oDNXz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note position of cutter teeth. If cutter teeth contact brake mount and there is gap between knob and body, complete facing and stop. If knob contacts body before cutter teeth contact brake mount, OR, if knob contacts body at the same time cutter teeth contact brake mount, reset the tool as in step 3, and face the upper mount. Use this setting to then face the lower mount.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;10&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn knob clockwise while applying hand pressure to face surface of disc mount.   Continue facing mount until knob stops against body.    The facing process is complete.   The upper and lower mounts should have a clean, flat cut and the faces should be parallel and in the same plane.   Remove DT-1 from frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTES ON DT-1 USE:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like all machining, use a cutting fluid such as Park Tool CF-2. If there is some &quot;chatter&quot; on the surface, the cut will still be square to the axle and the brake will mount properly to the disc. Change the amount of pressure and speed of the cutter to reduce chatter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KXf3r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Use a cutting fluid such as CF-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When cutting the surface of the disc mount, it is important to achieve a flat surface for the brake mount. In the image below, both mounts are adequately faced. Notice the left and right mount do not look identical. However, if the two mounts were faced to the same reference on the cutter, the job is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pUTyE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Adequately machined caliper mounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to note the &quot;foot print&quot; left by the cutter and compare this to the &quot;foot print&quot; or contact area of the caliper body or caliper body bracket adapter. Some mounts require significant machining, and the size of the machined surface may be smaller than the bracket.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1wpic.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The adapter bracket above will have a larger contact area then the machined surface. Use spacers in this case.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PvA5H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Close up of a machined cut likely to need spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZDHK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Spacers in place for the adapter bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the caliper mount is equal to or smaller than the machined area, no spacer is required.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/453BE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This disc mount-to-caliper interface will not require a spacer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T11:32:39.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30787" CreationDate="2015-05-25T11:51:55.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mississippi huh? Well I did this kind of thing in Georgia and in Texas and the common denominator is water and protein. Music (ala ear buds) no matter what are a good thing &amp;amp; so is a weather radio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19641" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T11:51:55.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30826" CreationDate="2015-05-25T15:50:04.580" Score="0" ViewCount="1867" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bottom bracket on my Rockrider 5.0 has a little too much play in it so I figured it best to change it before I get a failure whilst I'm commuting. Does anyone know which bottom bracket I would need for it? Or advise on how I can find out? Also any ideas on what type of extraction/fitting tool I may need for this type of bottom bracket? &#xA;Thanks in advanced&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7291" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T22:57:55.597" Title="What bottom bracket do I need for a decathlon rockrider 5.0" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21488" CreationDate="2015-05-25T15:58:20.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote the page you linked, &quot;Since the Velosteel hub has standard track threads, it can run any fixie/track cog built to Phil Wood/Campagnolo standards.&quot; For cogs, this is the same standard as every other cog, but the lock ring will probably be different. Just take the cog from your old hub and keep the lock ring from new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is different from most other coaster brake hubs, the more common Shimano, Torpedo and others use splined cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T15:58:20.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30787" CreationDate="2015-05-25T18:54:28.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done 120 mile touring and it was over either 2 days or 3 days.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy estimate is 10 miles per hour for a bike ride.  You can easily ride 50 miles in one day.  With a distance of 169 miles, you should take around 4 days.  Sometimes, the average speed is closer to 15 miles per hour.  Also, you may take more or less time per day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used both front and rear panniers.  Placed camping and clothing in the panniers.  The sleeping bag on on the back rack (can be used as a soft seat too).  Tools on the front rack or an easy access pouch on the panniers.  Another option is a bag on top of the front rack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a pump and at least two small water bottle holders or at least one large bottle holders.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware of wind, and sharp turns.  Remember, you bike has more mass on it, so it will be a little trickier to mount and steer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head lights and taillights are a must, at least the taillight.  You want those cars coming from behind to see you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to bring a mobile phone and a charger.  Nice to have in an emergency.  Small first aid kit tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as snacks go, the usual trail mix will do.  Helmets are mandatory.  A wet rag between your head and the helmet would be nice too.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, either drive the route first or explore it with Google Maps.  Look for hills and see if there are any flat routes around them.  Also, look for bicycle paths or routes.  These bicyle paths provide more isolation between you and those nasty cars (moving or the stationary ones that have opening doors).  Beware of sewer grates, they tend to do wreak havoc with wheel rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used high pressure tires on my bike:  90 in the front, 85 in the rear.  High pressure makes less friction on the road and your pedaling easier.  Also, adjust your seat so that your legs stretch out at the lowest pedal point.  This reduces the possibility of getting cramped legs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note:  A normal person walks at a rate of 2 miles per hour.  If they walk for a total of 5 hours per day, they will average 10 miles per day.  A bike is 10 mph, and you can cover 50 miles during 5 hours.  You may want to rethink your duration a bit.  Also, break up your travel into segments.  Each segment should end at a hotel or camping spot regardless of the distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19646" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T18:54:28.577" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32781" CreationDate="2015-05-25T20:26:48.937" Score="2" ViewCount="4107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a brand new bike with Hayes CX Expert disc brakes. When I picked it up at the shop, they had dialed the front brake in nicely so it grabbed pretty quick (i.e. without having to pull it right to the handlebar). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the front wheel off to put the bike in my car to bring it home. I was very careful not to hit the disc rotor off anything or lay anything on it as I know they can get bent out of true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got home I put the front wheel back on and re-tightened the quick release, but it now rubs slightly at one point when I spin the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found I could fiddle with the barrel adjuster and inside pad adjuster to back them off a bit and stop the rubbing but now I have to pull the lever much further to engage the brakes firmly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when it does rub, it's only at one point in the rotation which makes me think the rotor is slightly out of true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, when I engage the brake and look straight down at the caliper, I can see the rotor flex ever so slightly sideways, almost like the pads are coming together at a slight angle relative to the plane of the rotor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of this seems to be an issue with the rear, and I have had the rear wheel off a couple of times as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What gives? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T18:21:08.803" Title="Removing and reseating front wheel makes disc brakes rub" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hayes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30801" CreationDate="2015-05-25T23:39:23.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ring the bike shop before doing anything.  They may prefer you take it back to them rather than try to fix it yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All it probably needs a calliper alignment. Briefly - Loosen the two bolts holding the calliper so its free to move but is not sloppy. Slowly bring the brakes on while spinning the wheel. Once the brakes are on tight, without releasing the brakes, tighten the bolts a little. Pump the brakes a few times while spinning the wheel then fully tighten the bolts. Look up how to do it on the internet if in doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a torque wrench if you have one. If not, do not over tighten the bolts (Pay attention to how tight they were when you loosened them).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T23:39:23.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30805" CreationDate="2015-05-25T23:41:25.520" Score="8" ViewCount="7595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mainly use my road bike during the triathlon season and now that the season is coming back around again, I am finding some old, unused CO2 cartridges from last season (fall). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically use 16 gram CO2 cartridges and they usually fill my bike &lt;em&gt;to about&lt;/em&gt; 90 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these cartridges still safe to use after months of inactivity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried researching the matter online but all I've read applies to airsoft, etc. and not necessarily the 16g bicycling cartridges I'm concerned about. But, from what I did read CO2 cartridges have a &lt;em&gt;chance of leaking&lt;/em&gt; if not stored correcty and may indeed have a shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19649" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T03:18:28.133" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T12:40:27.143" Title="Do 16g CO2 cartridges have a shelf life?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;co2&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30804" CreationDate="2015-05-25T23:45:00.363" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They last pretty much forever provided they haven't been damaged (e.g. punctured or rusted or something), so go ahead and use them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to check them, you can buy a few new ones and weigh them on a scale (and compare the weights of the old cartridges to the new ones). If they're significantly lighter, they've leaked and throw them out. Else, go ahead and use them. But a few years (say less than a decade) is pretty much nothing in terms of having issues with the cartridges leaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T23:45:00.363" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T03:18:32.250" Score="1" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized Langster (really old model i think), and it got ran over, well the rims did, and I don't know which ones to get. I wanted to buy the rims and the spokes separate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like some velocity b43's but I cant find them anywhere. How can I find out what rims I need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19650" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T04:17:04.863" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T07:36:06.143" Title="Need help choosing rims for fixed gear" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30806" CreationDate="2015-05-26T05:11:28.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Batman said in a comment, the main thing is to get the spoke count right. So count how many spokes each wheel has (they could be different). Next, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;measure the width&lt;/a&gt; of the rim. You'll need to take the tires off first. And look at the tires to see what &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dimensions&lt;/a&gt; they say they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you'll need to make some tentative decisions. I recommend keeping things as they were, unless you have a good reason to change. Do you want similar width rims, or wider / narrower? Do you want deeper profile rims? Do you want to use a similar lacing pattern? Are you going cheap or $$$?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now take the mangled wheel(s) to your Local Bike Shop and see what rims they have that match your criteria. Get them to double check your spoke count, and to recommend what length spokes you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, since you mention getting rims and spokes, who is going to build these wheels? Building them yourself is not hard, but it can be a slow job if you haven't done it before. Most people just pay an expert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T05:11:28.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30813" CreationDate="2015-05-26T08:09:04.560" Score="0" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for something similar to a saddle bag but that mounts to the seat post and not the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a rear mounted camera that attaches to the saddle so want a bag that I can mount lower down on the seat post. I want to keep tubes, CO2, multitool etcetera in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched and can't find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10367" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T10:37:06.117" Title="Any small bags that mount to seat post?" Tags="&lt;bags&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36263" CreationDate="2015-05-26T11:35:45.633" Score="7" ViewCount="6442" Body="&lt;p&gt;The frame that I want to build has BB92 bottom bracket hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drivetrain I want to use is 1x11 SRAM XX1 or X01 with 30mm crankshaft (BB30)(edit: also available GXP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to fit it - directly pressing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rotorbike.com/products/mtb/bb89-bb92_98&quot;&gt;these bearings&lt;/a&gt; (or similar from other manufacturers) into the frame so the 30mm shaft will fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is will it fit also length-wise (will length of shaft be compatible) or same spacers are necessary and is the solution a good one (prone to squeaking, no bad experience with such setup etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Other possibility is to use GXP X01 or XX1 crankset. Since those spindles are stepped it wont work with BB92 shimano bottom bracket, but will fit with GXP BB92 press-fit bearing cups (which is similar solution to the firts one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which solution is the better one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19624" LastEditorUserId="19624" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T07:32:12.233" LastActivityDate="2018-05-09T11:57:16.480" Title="BB92 (Shimano bottom bracket) with SRAM 30mm crankshaft (X01 or XX1 BB30)?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23334" CreationDate="2015-05-26T12:47:45.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably do not know this but baking soda can act as a good deodorizer for the shoes and sometimes even for the feet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - After using your shoes, sprinkle a little bit of baking soda on each&#xA;   one.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Leave on the baking soda on the shoes overnight.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Take off the baking soda from the shoes in the morning especially if&#xA;   it is already going to be used.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://naturalremedyideas.com/get-rid-of-shoe-odor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;More info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19657" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T12:57:49.873" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T12:57:49.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23334" CreationDate="2015-05-26T13:29:41.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a boot dryer. Put your wet shoes and gloves on it after good rides. It drys them out fast and prevents odors.  Great for winter commuting as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my MTB shoes are covered in mud. I just take them to the sink with a scrub brush. Do a quick rinse and scrub the outside (about 2 min tops) to get the mud off and then toss on the dryer.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t8EWc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T13:29:41.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T14:12:17.983" Score="2" ViewCount="3890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced a flat on my rear road-bike tire. I had also tried to replace the rear axle, By removing the axle completely, to a quick release lock but realized the axle that had been installed with the bike tire wasn't hollow so put the old axle back on the bike, seemingly correctly. This morning i went for a ride and when I put any pressure while pedaling it felt as if the rear breaks were engaged. I checked to see what would happen if i pedal with the rear tire in the air and the tire seemed fine but came to a stop more quicker than usual but nothing too alarming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the problem only occurs when im siting on the bike and there is weight. I also noticed when i pedal the rear derailleur seems to tug forward and hug the rear cog set. im not sure if that's the issue... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas? I was wanting to save some money by not going to the LBS and learning and doing it myself. But I may have to go anyways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some images of the bike &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pnFof.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5c3t5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IQVe2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19573" LastEditorUserId="19573" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T15:09:57.370" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T10:19:05.110" Title="Why does my Rear bike tire slow down when Pedaling?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;axle&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30808" CreationDate="2015-05-26T16:14:08.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe one of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm/store.catalog/Cockpit/Jerrycan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Revelate Designs Jerry Can&lt;/a&gt; bags would work for you.  The mount on the front side of the seatpost and would leave the rear of your seat post open for your camera.  They are pretty versatile, I have used one on top of the triangle, inside the triangle and a few other places I won't mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T16:14:08.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30831" CreationDate="2015-05-26T17:00:28.570" Score="3" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently found this in my cycling shirt. I don't know where it came from, and what it is used for. It reads &quot;Simson&quot; on the other side, but I have no clue what I could use it for. Does it have anything to do with spokes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PifoF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Simson tool&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7525" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T04:38:32.440" Title="What is this tool for?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T17:04:51.153" Score="3" ViewCount="1618" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spoke calculator gave me the following results left 292.34 and right 290.98.&#xA;I am going to buy DT Swiss Competition spokes which are sold by 2mm increments from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/am/en/dt-swiss-competition-db-silver-spokes-18-pack/rp-prod91857&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. So which spoke length is better to buy ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7840" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T23:40:48.520" Title="Rounding spoke length calculator results" Tags="&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T17:28:07.643" Score="3" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I salvaged an old bicycle trailer. I have one concern though. The bar that goes from the trailer to the bike, I believe it's called the tow hitch, ends with a small rubber coupling, to allow for movement in all directions. The rubber has gotten brittle, and I don't trust it. Is it possible to either buy a new one or in any other way fix this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcFF0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6028" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T13:57:57.647" Title="Replacing rubber connection in a bicycle trailer coupling" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30816" CreationDate="2015-05-26T17:39:35.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With double wall rims both are fine. Longer gets a bit more thread engagement, if you are using aluminum nipples you probably want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With single wall, shorter because you don't want spoke ends poking through rim tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T17:39:35.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30816" CreationDate="2015-05-26T17:39:44.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that there's a bit of forgiveness thanks to the length of the spoke nipples that the spokes will thread into you could safely round down to Left 292mm and Right 290mm for spoke lengths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative is just rounding to 292mm for both sides - especially if your rim has recessed spoke holes (as most double wall rims do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18416" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T17:39:44.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31137" CreationDate="2015-05-26T19:18:09.500" Score="5" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new frame and put my old Campagnolo Racing T components on it.&#xA;The seat tube has a diameter of 35mm and I use the Campagnolo 35mm clamp for the Racing T derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the derailleur can't push the chain to the small gear because a part of the derailleur touches the seat tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the frame incompatible with a 3 speed crank or do I just need a compatible derailleur for frames with a wider seat tube, maybe the ATHENA Tripple?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Parts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame: BULLS Desert Falcon, Seat Tube 35mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank: Campagnolo Athena 11s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Derailleur: Campagnolo Racing T&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Bracket: Campagnolo BB90 Power Torque&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Images:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Derailleur touching the frame: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/krBUE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Derailleur touching the frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crank: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B5EOm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T03:20:05.080" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T20:44:47.390" Title="3 Speed Front Derailleur can't reach small gear" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T20:30:18.617" Score="2" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question for rebicycling a Motobecane Sprint Blue.  I have a desire to rebicycle this Motobecane Sprint into a semi retro style with the orginal theme.  In short i would like to purchase the same Motobecane headset, use the Sakae Alloy grill stem, Rigid Chrome 27x1 ¼ rim, but with a single hub.  I want to use wood handle bars and a few brooks accents such a pedal boot with leather straps and a B17 saddle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I identify which headset will fit this Motobecane (1970s) frame? Will the Weinmann 730 side pull fit a 700C if I shouldn’t use 27x1 ¼? Will I have room for fenders (wooden) on both the front (¼ diameter) and rear (½ diameter)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the diameter of the seat post 25.4 x 200 an indicator of the size for the Sakae Alloy Stem and the type of bottom bracket.  I know the rear gap for tire is 126mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am ordering this item from eBay so i would like to get as much before it arrives to that I don’t have to wait for pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the assistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19661" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T20:30:18.617" Title="Motobecane Sprint Retro Fixie" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T20:42:07.100" Score="1" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought and successfully installed a SON 28 Dynamo Hub and a Supernova The Plug III on my bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when the wheel spins, the Hub Dynamo connectors will spin together with the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific way to install the wheel packing the SON 28 so that the Hub's electric connectors will remain in place as the wheel spins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19662" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T05:35:55.417" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T05:35:55.417" Title="SON 28 Hub Dynamo &quot;Rotation Lock&quot;?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T21:06:52.290" Score="1" ViewCount="8826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to buy a chain lock as I would be leaving my cycle in quite a busy area. I am not sure what length of chain lock I will need if I wanted to secure my bike using a chain that runs through both the wheels and the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 90cm Kryptonite looks two small to run through two wheels, &#xA;I am not sure if I need two 1m chain locks or if I could do with one 1.5m chain lock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked at the pragmasis protector 16mm chain lock with padlock. Anyone have any advice specifically on what length of chain lock i will need or if it is better to get two short chain locks both for the front and the back wheels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19663" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T21:56:37.537" Title="Finding the right length of chain lock for my road bike" Tags="&lt;security&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30823" CreationDate="2015-05-26T21:15:32.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grab some string, and thread it through where you want to lock up the bike.&#xA;Then measure the string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't be perfect, or even all that good, but good enough to know to the meter how much you'll need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19366" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T21:15:32.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30823" CreationDate="2015-05-26T21:22:44.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I faced the same dilemma a while back.&#xA;Getting a big chain implies carrying way too much weight around. Even a small, good bike chain is pretty heavy and can easily be 1/3 the weight of your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to protect your bike and be able to carry the locks around is to have a chain or a U-Lock, and with these you can easily secure your frame and a wheel, and then use a small cable like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=bike%20lock%20extensions&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=955&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=jeJkVenID4fioASCl4CIBA&amp;amp;ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg#safe=off&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=bike%20lock%20cable&amp;amp;imgrc=E6x3B1PH0evnhM%253A%3BufIN2onZcg1O_M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fgearpatrol.wpengine.netdna-cdn.com%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F2013%252F08%252FKryptonite-KryptoFlex-Double-Loop-Cable-Gear-Patrol.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fgearpatrol.com%252F2013%252F08%252F15%252F10-best-bike-locks%252F%3B650%3B500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; to secure the other wheel. One wheel is less protected, but a substantial part is under a good lock and the weight is not too bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From these I actually prefer a small chain to a u-lock because it is easier to lock the bike to a tree for example, but if your city is bike friendly a u-lock offers very good protection and is much more manageable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When buying locks keep in mind price usually means security. I recommend you check the independent tester of locks &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soldsecure.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sold Secure&lt;/a&gt;. They have a catalog with different locks they have rated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T21:22:44.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30798" CreationDate="2015-05-26T21:39:40.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't precisely tell you which one you need with a picture, and I didn't find a good one in the internet. The bottom bracket you need is either an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=octalink%20bottom%20bracket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OctaLink&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#safe=off&amp;amp;q=square+bottom+bracket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Square&lt;/a&gt; bottom bracket. You should be able to figure out just by looking at your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before buying you need to check both the shell and the spindle lengths, as you can see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedalonline.com/images/library/features/tru_bbfea_07_f.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is really easy to remove and install a new one, but you will need to buy a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=crank%20extractor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crank extractor&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bottom bracket removal tool&lt;/a&gt;. These aren't tools you will use very much so just get the cheapest ones you can find. You will also need generic tools to unscrew the crank, but you can figure these ones out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find detailed instructions on how to do this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cartridge-bearing-type-bottom-bracket-service-bbt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, or just search for a youtube video. Before installing the new one grease the hell out of those threads so it won't be a pain to remove next time, and because that part is very exposed to the elements. Stupid elements!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T21:39:40.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30583" CreationDate="2015-05-26T22:22:50.513" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strava has this feature in the route planning tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the header, you can see it has toggle switches for &lt;strong&gt;popularity&lt;/strong&gt; (pretty nifty if the area is new to you), &lt;strong&gt;min-elevation&lt;/strong&gt; (what you're looking for), and &lt;strong&gt;manual&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bi1Ub.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of how it works. The below route is between two points in Palos Verde, CA - a notoriously hilly (fun) area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Min Elevation OFF:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAQOT.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Min Elevation ON:&lt;/strong&gt; Here's the route with the same end points and the feature turned on -- a savings of 348 feet of elevation gain, but an extra 2.5 miles of riding.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZBmQv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastEditorUserId="8425" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T23:05:57.490" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T23:05:57.490" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13539" CreationDate="2015-05-27T01:23:22.253" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't completely agree with some things that have been said here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like old bikes, if you want it for the looks, go for it. It is a perfectly good reason, lots of people buy and maintain old bikes because they are classier and prettier. There is nothing wrong with it, your passion is perfectly respectable. I personally think something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://static1.squarespace.com/static/5124dfb9e4b04a9f6b67d54b/527a904fe4b0843dae5d640f/527a9160e4b0d1e6b395a05c/1383764355661/ColnagoNuovoMexico_01.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is absolutely gorgeous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be careful when picking one, because age and rust attack the frame and components, so you should be careful that the frame is not too rusty if you want to recover it, and inspect the bike for cracks every week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, while it is (arguably) true there hasn't been a huge advance in bike mechanics in the last years, it is also true new advancements in materials, manufacturing techniques and mechanical principles make new components much better and durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guarantee you a new, 2015 derailleur will last much longer than a new one made 25 years ago. It will because even though the mechanical principle is the same, a new derailleur has better bearings, better isolated, and the whole construction is more solid meaning there are less tolerances when it is shifting which will end up making it perform better and last longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is true for all other components, but mainly for ones that have movement: hubs, headsets, cranks for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better quality in modern products will also be more noticeable when you are using the bike, as it will feel more solid and flex less under hard pedaling, brakes will work better, wheel will flex much less, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you compare an old Dura Ace derailleur (some of the best) with a super cheap one sent to you from China for $10 the old one might be better, but if you compare a 25 (from the 90's) year old Dura Ace with a modern Tiagra (some of the cheapest Shimano makes), I guarantee you the new one will perform much, much better. I have used them side by side and 25 years of evolution make a big, big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just look at them, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velosaloon.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/800x534/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/d/s/dsc_0031_46.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;old&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/components11/road/tiagra1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;new&lt;/a&gt;. See how different are the brakes for example? More material, less flex, better bearings, a mechanical principle revised for decades, all means they will last longer and perform much, much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As true for most things, using an older vehicle (car, motorcycle, boat, bicycle) means you will have necessarily less performance and more maintenance costs. I am not saying an older bike will make you go bankrupt, and it will last if you treat her well, but trust me, there will be a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nevertheless you want to go for the older one, I can't do anything else but pay you a nice, cold beer when I see you with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T01:23:22.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-27T01:28:05.200" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you can see from this picture, part of my Derailleur  is loose.  Notice how the gear is not in flush with the cylinder. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/OmzINX6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a no other parts (that I can find!) than a threaded screw to go in there, but the screw bottoms out or at least seems to before it pulls the assembly in tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The screw itself is not of such diameter that it would hold the device in place, and while the geared part &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; secured by a metal lip on the side of the gear when you &lt;em&gt;push&lt;/em&gt; it in place... the screw doesn't do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my first time working Derailleur system.  I have no idea what part I'm missing.  I'd appreciate anybody who could tell me what it is I need..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and for the record.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/gc5IB1Y.jpg?1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is the image of what the thing hooks onto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastEditorUserId="7136" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T01:50:19.620" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T06:11:33.013" Title="Why is part of this Derailleur loose? (Sun Tour Cyclone II)" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30815" CreationDate="2015-05-27T04:38:32.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a spoke wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.btosports.com/p/bikemaster-spoke-wrench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.btosports.com/p/bikemaster-spoke-wrench&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17316" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T04:38:32.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30812" CreationDate="2015-05-27T04:43:20.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Posible causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bearings were not repacked properly and they are seizing up under load.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your wheel isn't line up properly in the dropouts and your tire is rubbing the chainstay (look for rub marks).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your brakes are close enough such that when you pedal the rear end flexes and the brakes touch the rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17316" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T04:43:20.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30812" CreationDate="2015-05-27T06:12:48.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;By far the most likely reason is that you've over tightened the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you feel as if you needed 3 hands to get it back together? If not, you did it wrong. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; has a pretty good writeup on this, but the basics are easy enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put one side back together, tighten it up as best you can. Set the cone on the other side to the correct tension. Tighten locknut on second side without turning either cone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tricky part is the last bit. You need to hold the cones on both sides at the same time whilst tightening the locknut and you really need 3 hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will most likely have to try a few times to get the tension just right. When it's done it should turn freely but not have any wiggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T06:12:48.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30858" CreationDate="2015-05-27T07:42:20.587" Score="2" ViewCount="7349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to change my tires with the Continental 4000S II 28mm width tires.&#xA;Do I need new tubes for the wider tires or can I use my old ones from my 23mm tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T20:33:36.120" Title="Same tube for 23mm and 28mm tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-27T08:23:30.807" Score="3" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm working with the park tool tutorial but I've done it a couple of times in the past.&#xA;When adjusting my Shimano Deore Front derailleur (height and rotation) it lines up great but when I tighten the mounting bolt the whole thing &lt;strong&gt;&quot;banks&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; inwards and so the cage bottom rises and touches the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to i set the height and tighten the mechanism with affecting the other rotation &quot;axis&quot; of the derailleur?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are there always combination of cogs (front and back) that will cause the chain to run against the cage?. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now some photos. it is very hard to create a stable reference angle with the phone and without a tripod but you will get the idea.&#xA;This is the chain on the &lt;strong&gt;first (small) chainring&lt;/strong&gt; when the bolt is tighten:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jAbLx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is the chain on the **first (small) chainring** when the bolt is tighten&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is the chain still on the first (small) chainring but now the bolt is almost fully loose, so in fact, nothing changed with the actual position of the mount:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HUDo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;And this is the chain still on the first (small) chainring but now the bolt is almost fully loose&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(please ignore the mud.... that's later on the list)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDcz6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastEditorUserId="14552" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T08:59:51.447" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T14:31:00.720" Title="Front derailleur never alligned" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-27T08:59:14.940" Score="3" ViewCount="1321" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eoQcj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vintage Cosmos road bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is a vintage Cosmos World Champion road bike. &#xA;Frame height is 57 cm / 22.44 inches (measured from the center of the crankshaft to the seatpost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame uses Columbus tubing. Components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Selle Italia Turbo 1985 WC  &quot;World Championship&quot; leather saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3ttt &quot;3T&quot; Triple T  Super Competizione / Racing Team Service  steerer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brev. Campagnolo Front dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Columbus rear dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weinmann Carrera 1st generation brakes (Red emblem).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gipiemme Sprint Pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1st generation Dura-Ace front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shimano RD-6401 , 600 Ultegra rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shimano FC-1050, 105 crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shimano SL-1055, 105SC (7sp) shifters. (Band On / Clamp on)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shimano BL-1055 / 105SC  brake levers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mavic MA 2 rims.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ciclolinea 80's bar end plugs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19666" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2018-06-21T05:11:51.357" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T05:11:51.357" Title="COSMOS road bike? Identify my frame" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30867" CreationDate="2015-05-27T09:55:35.527" Score="16" ViewCount="5236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I intend to give blood at some point this week at my local community centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How much of a difference is this going to make to the effort required to keep up my usual pace? Or will the difference be negligible?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How long will any potential effects take to wear off?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know professional cyclists have in the past (of course this is completely eradicated nowadays...) increased their blood volume to give them an advantage over the rest of the peloton. Can I infer that a lower amount of blood will have the opposite effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute ~16km most days and usually go out for a longer ride at the weekend so I'm fairly used to cycling intermediate distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18733" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T21:07:29.303" Title="How much of a difference does giving blood make to recreational cycling?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30837" CreationDate="2015-05-27T10:15:17.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will affect you, but I doubt you'll notice the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people do feel fait afterwards, but I believe this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blood.co.uk/about-blood/how-the-body-replaces-blood/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;related to blood pressure&lt;/a&gt; rather than red blood cell count and your body can replace the fluid relatively quickly, so have a cup of tea and a chat before you leave and you should be ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was giving regularly, they asked if you were going to be operating heavy machinery later that day. If you tick that they'll ask you about it and give you better advice than someone anonymous on the internet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T10:15:17.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30812" CreationDate="2015-05-27T10:19:05.110" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the common problem when bearing does not wor properly so you need to change the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19110" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T10:19:05.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30837" CreationDate="2015-05-27T11:14:15.440" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are riding near your aerobic limit you'll definitely discover that you've lost aerobic capacity during the next 12-24 hours. It can take that long to replace the red blood cells you've lost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a blood donation is about 10% of your blood capacity, your aerobic capacity will be down by 10%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I wrote the rest of this before I saw your comment that you've given blood many times. I'll leave it in the post for future readers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, the main issue is blood pressure. Plenty of fluids are recommended as soon as you finish giving blood. It only takes an hour or two to overcome this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conservative advice would be to avoid cycling for the next 24 hours. Until you know how you react to giving blood this is what I recommend. After giving blood a few times you could try riding &lt;em&gt;gently&lt;/em&gt; and see what happens. I would still avoid riding on roads in traffic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: see also the link provided in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/30867/8273&quot;&gt;answer by @super&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T22:05:27.910" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30852" CreationDate="2015-05-27T11:15:10.573" Score="7" ViewCount="7508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a shimano XT hydraulic disc brake system. While servicing it I took out the pads an checked the pistons in the caliper and noticed that only one is extracting. After a few pulls on the lever when the one piston reached the end of its travel, the brake fluid spurted from it.&#xA;I've since resettled and reset the pistons but I'm thinking I might still have fluid leaking out from there in the future. Or maybe that was normal behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T11:39:18.117" Title="Should brake fluid come out of a misaligned disc caliper piston?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9512" CreationDate="2015-05-27T11:19:34.067" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;KMC Stainless Steel (SS) chain claims to be all-SS rather than partial as the Wipperman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been running a KMC Stainless chain for 3.5 years and it is indistinguishable performance-wise from carbon steel chains. However it is clean and shiny, stays that way and, so far, has been all joy and happiness. The cosmetic value of &quot;clean and shiny&quot; is there as it lends an appearance of quality and newness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My maintenance consists of two-monthly complete cleaning in white-spirit (a slow-evaporating petroleum fraction) which can be re-used as the dirt precipitates, leaving it clear. It is sandy where I live so I have changed from sticky oil - which makes a grinding-paste on the chain - to solvent-carrier lubricants which are far cleaner. I have no idea if this has a comparitive advantage without testing. All in all, stainless = good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19667" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2018-09-11T19:46:59.683" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T19:46:59.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30848" CreationDate="2015-05-27T11:39:18.117" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is normal behaviour. You pushed the piston way out, so oil from behind it found a way out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General actions suitable for your case as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carefully push the lever a couple of times in order for the pistons to extend a couple of mms. if one is stuck, make sure you push the other one with a plastic tyre lever while pulling the brake lever in order to make the sticky piston extend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean sides of piston with earbud with alcohol. clean again with paper. this ensures free movement of pistons later on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;carefully fully push pistons back into their place with a plastic tyre lever. this is called &quot;reset&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;insert shimano yellow block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do a full bleed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;install wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;go ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure that no oil was spiled on pads or disk. If so, replace pads and clean disk very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T11:39:18.117" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-27T11:45:33.493" Score="3" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've reset the pistons (after taking the pads out) of my XT hydraulic brakes, and made sure they do extract evenly when operating the lever.&#xA;After putting the pads and the wheel back in (and adjusting the bracket mount to a symmetrical position over the rotor), the &lt;strong&gt;left piston extract much more than the other one&lt;/strong&gt;, which was the reason i wanted to reset it in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastEditorUserId="14552" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T12:29:50.493" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T12:56:28.703" Title="Pistons are aligned only without pads in" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30854" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-27T12:05:26.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Developing or improving strength and conditioning for the purpose of improving cycling performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T14:49:42.570" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T14:49:42.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30855" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-27T12:05:26.543" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T12:05:26.543" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T12:05:26.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30856" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-27T12:16:10.447" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T12:16:10.447" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T12:16:10.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30857" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-27T12:16:10.447" Score="0" Body="What foods and drinks are suitable for cycling and training." OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T12:48:14.410" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T12:48:14.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30834" CreationDate="2015-05-27T14:28:23.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tube will have a range.  Most likely the original range of that tube did not include 28.  Small tubes are usually sold as 19-23.  Yes the rubber would probably stretch to 28 without bursting but it would definitely be weak.  If you are going to spend money on new tires then spend money on new tubes.  Even same size I put new tubes in new tires.  Save the old for emergency.  Better yet save the old tires with tubes for emergency unless the tires are just plain shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T14:28:23.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30878" CreationDate="2015-05-27T18:45:58.513" Score="-1" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was always curious about this, but I never found the answer. Originally I only knew freestyle BMX bikes, but then found there are official races offroad. What is the idea behind this? Sounds like racing giro d'italia on downhill MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19410" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T01:02:02.873" Title="Why are there BMX off road races" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;&lt;race&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30765" CreationDate="2015-05-27T18:46:44.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd add:&#xA;Pro:&#xA;probably less width overall, good for extreme mountain/trail biking&#xA;Con:&#xA;center of balance is shifted off center line of tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19676" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T18:46:44.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-27T19:13:43.843" Score="2" ViewCount="665" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an argument against the use of road shoes if your were planning on time trialling and criterium races? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T20:17:10.697" Title="Do road bike shoes offer an increase in power transfer over mtb shoes if the sole is a similar stiffness?" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30869" CreationDate="2015-05-27T19:20:39.117" Score="2" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 10 speed road bike, what is the ideal chain tension? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was recently told (by a bike shop) that my rear derailleur should be fully extended (pointing forward) when the chain is between the 2 biggest cogs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a riding with high tension decrease your chain life quicker? It seems logical that it would, so perhaps I was given bad advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T02:57:56.377" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T02:57:56.377" Title="Relationship between chain tension and chain wear" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4607" CreationDate="2015-05-27T19:56:59.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Decades of experimenting and I still am a sucker for the 'next great thing.'&#xA;A few tidbits I do trust, now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tiprep antiseize for every bike part that is tightly pressed/bolted infrequently, especially dissimilar metals where galvanic corrosion will occur; Ti's bad, but Alu to Alu or steel/Ti may be even worse. Greases are NOT antiseize, nor is it a lubricant, but a high pressure thin layer boundary.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Blue loctite for every other nut/bolt, including outside locking ring threads on cassettes, because I've seen several loosen over time. Also acts as a corrosion protection, but with benefit of controlled vibration-proofing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Krytox full strength - pricey, but best for sliding friction metal to metal, like in shifter plates, cable lubing. Is pretty dry, low dirt collector; NOT a great bearing grease, as it seems to dry out or clump, w/o cling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pedals- Shimano grease lasted for years, pretty clean, but my high tech Viperlube seems to be either washed or spun out in a couple hundred miles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;None of the common greases have proved as durable (nor very water resistant) as the original when bearings get re-packed, a mystery as maybe Shimano stuff really is good. If you're handy, try each side of a hub/crank with different stuff, and record over time which looks cleaner/newer with each service.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most auto lubes  focus on extremes of temperature, corrosion, and pressure, and either get pumped/circulated in closed areas, or held in boots, so are too thick or too thin  or too sticky for bikes in most spots.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19678" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T21:53:04.710" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T21:53:04.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-27T19:57:57.620" Score="0" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having a crankset issue, I have tested by holding both brakes and moving the crank and pedals parallel and pushing down, with each 180 rotation,  the crank moves and thuds a little each side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know how to sort this, is the crankset gone, bike is a XTC 29er.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19019" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T18:01:03.477" Title="Crank-set issue" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;29er&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30837" CreationDate="2015-05-27T20:15:20.330" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on exercise intensity. In a day or two you can return to your normal/moderate exercise. A complete recovery of oxygen delivery can take as much as 3/4 weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means a professional athlete should be careful because he will loose performance, but us normal human beings can carry our normal daily lives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more complete answerers given by pro-triathletes and physicians, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.runnersweb.com/running/news/rw_news_20040809_BloodDonation.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. You can also find scientific references to support their claims, if you really want to get deep into the subject (I didn't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curiously, they state there isn't much research in the topic. I assume pro athletes just don't take the chances, and to normal people giving blood has a neglectable impact in our daily life. If you helped another human being, who cares if you take more 5 seconds to do the 10 miles from your house to your local pub, right? :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T10:45:57.707" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T10:45:57.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30861" CreationDate="2015-05-27T20:17:10.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s probably more a matter of pedal systems than shoes. High end shoes in both categories will be pretty good and stiff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only talk about Speedplay Zero (road bike pedals) vs. Look Quartz and Shimano SPD. The Speedplay Zero have a much greater area, have completly free adjustable movement sideways (as far as the crankarms allow it) and no play, tilting etc. whatsoever. Other road bike systems will probably be similarly good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bike shoes will probably be lighter and have more openings for air to come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only disadvantage of road bike shoes is that it’s really almost impossible to walk in them and the cleats suffer much more wear from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T20:17:10.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30862" CreationDate="2015-05-27T20:27:10.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain should be as short as possible and as long as necessary. It will usually shift better with proper tension. The tension shouldn’t affect chain life though the shorter chain will. Make a 104 link chain shorter by 2 links and it has almost 2% less material and thus shorter life. But that’s really a small effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can dimly remember an article which stated that higher tension (they tested big chainring vs. small chainring) is actually more efficient, probably because there are less vibrations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T20:27:10.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30862" CreationDate="2015-05-27T20:28:53.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tension generated by the derailleur does not have any effect on chain wear, its insignificant compared to what a rider places on the chain when pedaling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, riding in that configuration (big to big) is called cross chaining. Cross chaining increases the wear on the chain due to the  increased angles where the chain comes onto the chain rings and cogs. Although not as bad as some say, its less than desirable to spend long periods of time cross chained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T20:28:53.670" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30834" CreationDate="2015-05-27T20:33:36.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the tubes. Schwalbe makes some (i.e. SV20) which go from 18-622 to 25-622, so you could probably risk the 28-622 (if the tire is even really that wide, they are often quite a bit narrower than specified).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T20:33:36.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30873" CreationDate="2015-05-27T21:03:46.803" Score="2" ViewCount="6049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cube Reaction Team 2011. It came with a Fox Alps 32 fork, 100 mm travel (26&quot;). The fork is now ruined and I need a replacement (on a rather tight budget) and I found a good price for a Rockshox Reba RL Solo Air fork. It's 120 mm, but I think it can be adjusted to 100mm - I'm wondering though, would the extra 20 mm travel be a problem for my frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is basically these two questions:: firstly, &lt;strong&gt;would it ride/handle worse&lt;/strong&gt;, and secondly - &lt;strong&gt;would it put more stress on my frame&lt;/strong&gt;, especially if the stress could be potentially fatal for it (it's a carbon frame and it's one that's difficult to get anymore, so I'd rather keep it intact).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a side-question - is there any possibility that a 100mm, 26&quot; fork would &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; fit my bike? I probably cannot install the fork myself and I'd rather not buy one and then find out at the bike shop that it cannot be installed on my frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8311" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T10:37:05.783" Title="120 mm fork with a frame designed for 100 mm fork?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30872" CreationDate="2015-05-27T21:29:43.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before starting, your fork looks pretty nice. Are you sure you can't send it to FOX and rebuild it? Why do you say it is ruined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the fork size, please check the cube &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cube.eu/en/service/faq/faq-detail/article/can-i-install-forks-with-more-travel-as-provided-in-the-standard-equipment/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAN I INSTALL FORKS WITH MORE TRAVEL AS PROVIDED IN THE STANDARD EQUIPMENT?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NO. The installation of a fork with more travel will void the warranty. The bike geometry will be changed in a negative way, which leads to a different handling of the bike and can damage the frame permanently.&#xA;It is also not approved to install double bridge forks into CUBE bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike is still under warranty, I don't think it is worth it. If it isn't, it will for sure put more stress on the frame but I don't think it will brake. This depends a lot of your weight and ride style, and keep in mind Cube says not to do it, so it is your entire responsibility. I wouldn't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure you can change your suspension between 80, 100 and 120mm of travel. Please check &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/reba-rl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Rock Shox has really good manuals so you might even be able to do it yourself, otherwise take it to your bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing a suspension is simple, if you have the patience and the time to learn, and you just need one or two allen tools for most of it. However, sometimes taking the bottom part of the headset from the old fork is a pain. Search on youtube for fork replacement. If you feel like it, I think you can try and if something goes wrong take it to a shop in pieces. They will figure it out :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before buying, confirm with the seller the fork will fit the frame, specially if it is an used fork he might have shorten the part of it that goes into the headset and it's shorter size might not fit your frame or your favorite stem position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMPORTANT: Please see @mikes comment below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T20:10:40.103" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30859" CreationDate="2015-05-27T23:08:50.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;More than existing, BMX off road racing is actually an Olympic sport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.olympic.org/cycling-bmx-equipment-and-history&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Olympic site&lt;/a&gt; on this sport:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bicycle motocross (BMX) started in the late 1960s in California, around the time that motocross became a popular sport in the USA. The motorised version of the sport was the inspiration for the human-powered competition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And had an international federation created in 1981:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In April 1981, the International BMX Federation was founded. BMX rapidly developed a unique sporting identity and it became evident that the sport had more in common with cycling than motorcycling. This was officially recognised in 1993 when BMX was fully integrated into the International Cycling Union (UCI). The sport made its Olympic debut at the 2008 Beijing Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T23:08:50.357" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30859" CreationDate="2015-05-28T01:02:02.873" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMX&quot;&gt;BMX was originally&lt;/a&gt; (and still is) run on smooth dirt track that have obstacles such as jumps and whoops (also know as the rhythm sections).   Because the tracks are smooth a small fully rigid bike works amazingly well when ridden appropriately. The BMX bike and track evolved together emphasizing a riding style that is about timing and body position. All of this took off in around the mid-70's just as Mountain biking was in its infancy &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikinghistory.com/timeline&quot;&gt;with the Repack rides&lt;/a&gt;.  The end result is that BMX bikes are really the optimal form factor for BMX tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, whoops are a &lt;a href=&quot;http://s27.photobucket.com/user/harpcab/media/Mountain%20Biking%20Pics/Orange%20Y/InTheWhoops.jpg.html&quot;&gt;series of smooth small mounds&lt;/a&gt; that are typically part of a track's rhythm section.  By  pulling back and up on the bike as you approach the crest and pushing down on the downside you can actually gain speed through this section without pedalling.  If you can continue pedalling while doing so you can gain even more speed.  Some advanced riders may even jump some or all  the whoops, others may manual or wheely through.   The commonality, is controlling your center of gravity so that you body position changes as little as possible while moving the bike over the terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly jumps have smooth lead ups and transitions.  Learning body position, timing and  pumping are some of the techniques used to ensure you land smoothly on the transitions on the backside of each jump.  Good riders will look like they never stop pedalling from when they leave to when they land on the transition.  Advanced riders also do some other pretty impressive things such as rear wheel dabs mid-flight to help control their flight paths and where they will land.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed and smoothness is the goal in BMX dirt track racing.  Because the tracks are so controlled, once the various skills are learnt a small rigid bike like a BMX bike is literally the fastest way around the track.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting in the 90's many BMX clubs started introducing MTB bike categories to encourage cross-overs. Having ridden both on the tracks, the smaller BMX bikes are faster. Things such as suspension are not needed.  The tracks are smooth and jumps are landed on the transitions (hopefully!).  Suspension just ends up just adding  weight, and can interfere with techniques such as pumping the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T01:02:02.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30817" CreationDate="2015-05-28T03:33:04.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest undoing the bolts that hold the rubber piece in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obtain an old car tire, and with &lt;em&gt;heavy&lt;/em&gt; shears, cut a couple of pieces the same size and shape. The idea is to put them back to back to make up the width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to make holes on each end for the bolts. A large drill could be used for this; I suggest a drill press, rather than a hand-held drill, for safety reasons (the drill bit may bind in the rubber).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to have a few tries to get it all to work right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T03:33:04.127" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30817" CreationDate="2015-05-28T03:57:05.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is your basis for not trusting it?  That bolt has rust do you not trust it?  Really how do you know that surface cracking is a structural integrity problem?   Stand on it and see if it breaks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it breaks try a tire and frame dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T04:02:19.223" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T04:02:19.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30830" CreationDate="2015-05-28T06:11:33.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is hard to give you the exact reasons why this is happening, but your derailleur body lost a good mechanic connection with the cage. Maybe the screw that holds them has just became loose, or maybe it has gone bad, or maybe your derailleur is just old. Hard to tell from the pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to be pessimistic, but repair will be hard, as manuals and parts are hard to find, and I suspect even if you successfully do it there will still be too much slack for this part to perform adequately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sure doesn't hurt to try. The only link I can point you to is for an overhaul of a Shimano derailleur, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. These components aren't too different and this should give you a help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meanwhile, I would start putting some money on the side for a new one, the good news are that if you can't fix yours you can get something really &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cycling-MTB-Road-Bike-Bicycle-7-21-Speed-Rear-Derailleur-Black-Long-Cage-/371239200376?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item566f94a678&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cheap&lt;/a&gt;. If you ride a lot, it is better to invest in something a little bit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-RD-TX35-6-7-SPEED-DIRECT-MOUNT-REAR-BICYCLE-DERAILLEUR-/191229930147?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item2c86312aa3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;better&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T06:11:33.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30773" CreationDate="2015-05-28T06:28:46.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please see my comment above. Reading the complete FAQ actually confirms my claims, as the track dropout is &quot;horizontal AND opens at the rear&quot;, whereas your dropouts &quot;open diagonally towards the bottom&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have horizontal dropouts on your bike's rear wheel (horizontal and open at the rear), we dissuade you from using the Pitlock system. &#xA;  Usually (almost) all rear wheels are assembled in vertical dropouts (opening diagonally towards the bottom). Here the assembly with PITLOCK works without problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T06:28:46.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30884" CreationDate="2015-05-28T07:36:26.570" Score="5" ViewCount="4455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Shimano Dura Ace 10 speed rear derailleur with a 12-25 cassette. For some hilly rides I'd like to change to a 12-30 cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum the rear derailleur can handle is 28, so I'm thinking of getting a Shimano 105 RD. I'd like to be able to switch between these two set-ups but fear that breaking the chain each time is not a good thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to change the RD without breaking the chain by taking apart the pulley wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is it possible to fit a 12-30 cassette on a Shimano Dura Ace 10 speed short cage RD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19672" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T09:01:12.173" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T05:47:58.063" Title="Replace rear deraileur without breaking the chain" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30883" CreationDate="2015-05-28T08:21:00.760" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're likely to destroy the derailleur by doing that too many times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KMC and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.connexchain.com/en/product/connex-link.html&quot;&gt;Wipperman&lt;/a&gt; both have 10 speed quick links which are a better thing to do. Note that you'll need a chain big enough for the larger cassette (or, with a quick link have 2 chains). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T08:21:00.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30946" CreationDate="2015-05-28T10:40:33.507" Score="3" ViewCount="14357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am switching from 700cx40 to 700cx32. I have a bunch of inner tubes that I bought for the old tires and are in the 40mm range, but I don't know anymore what the range is for each (I didn't keep the packages). Is there a way to tell? Or, if no, what can happen if I use a wider tube (say, a 35-xx or 37-xx tube on a 32mm tire)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: OK, I see, the dimension is written on the tube. So, I have a 700 x35/43 tube. Is it safe to use it on 32?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19686" LastEditorUserId="19686" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T17:24:51.950" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T03:40:24.263" Title="Using a wider inner tube" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30893" CreationDate="2015-05-28T11:03:56.927" Score="7" ViewCount="3723" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a complete novice with bicycle maintenance and have a slight problem.  I just picked up a 2nd hand bike as taking part in a charity event this weekend and an unfortunate accident meant my mine was totalled and I couldn't afford to be picky.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is an 04 Giant OCR Zero with Campagnolo groupset.  An okish bike and would've been fine as a temporary machine.  I wasn't able to test ride as my knee is still battered and when I got home I flipped the bike and ran through the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;we have 3 on front and 9spd at the rear.  When using the biggest ring at the back and biggest at the front, the tension on the chain is so great that it cannot move.  If the rear is in mid position or lower then it transitions ok but not otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help or advice on how to fix is appreciated.  I thought changing the chain might solve but the chain on there is a 9 spd and as far I know, it should be fine.  replacing it with the same length would just result in the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited to add pics and info. &#xA;Apologies for incorrect use of tension. I've taken a few pics(hopefully they've attached ok) showing the different states of the rear mech as I transition through the gears. There is a lot of crud but no slack on the chain at all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T6fKC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0rivF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6d3y7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QBhRn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IREMS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MzMn6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19687" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T20:20:22.730" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T02:06:06.940" Title="Unable to pedal when in high gears" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="23" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30837" CreationDate="2015-05-28T11:39:13.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to cycle 8 miles each way on my way into central London, before I moved. I also used to give blood before moving to a country where they prefer not to accept mad cow blood. So there you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that on a good day I used to be able to cycle into work in about 40-45min. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found that the days immediately after a donation I would take 45-50minutes approximately to make the same trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found that it would take approximately a month for me to recover my pb speed, which matched quite well worth when I would be due to donate again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I found it definitely does make a huge impact on performance. On the other hand that same performance change actually made very little difference to my commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's harder to cycle for about a month, or how long the vampires wait before bleeding you again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also very manageable for commutes, but you will definitely not be hitting your pb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13165" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T11:39:13.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30887" CreationDate="2015-05-28T13:22:46.673" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that is for sure, your chain is too short. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bet is that when you shift to the big-big chainring combination, something in your derailleur is binding because it's being pulled so tight. If you look at the last picture, it looks like there's a severe lateral bend in your chain where it exits the derailleur. My guess is that's the point where it's binding. It also looks in the second-to-last picture like your derailleur might actually be touching the chainstays. I don't think that would cause the chain to bind, but it's definitely not good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to scrounge up a few links and lengthen your chain, but it's not recommended for a number of reasons that I won't go into here. Suffice it to say, that if something goes wrong your chain can snap while you're riding. &lt;strong&gt;This is dangerous&lt;/strong&gt;. It can also cause other things to break and be far more expensive in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy the longest chain you can find. They're usually the same price regardless of length, so that shouldn't be an issue. Use the new chain to measure the correct length to use and remove unnecessary links. The venerable Sheldon Brown has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain&quot;&gt;great article&lt;/a&gt; on how to measure the proper length for your chain. Basically, you wrap the chain around the two big rings without passing it through the derailleur and make sure that the chain overlaps by one full link. Keep in mind that a full chain link is two half-links, i.e., two pieces of chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a chain tool, or this seems beyond your mechanical capabilities, take it to a bike shop to have the chain replaced. Replacing a chain is trivial to a bike shop. If you buy the chain at the shop, they're likely to do it while you wait and labor will be very inexpensive or free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:22:46.673" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30887" CreationDate="2015-05-28T13:37:33.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the answer from jimirings and don't want to start a cross chain debate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross chaining is big big or little little.&#xA;New a bike should do both but it is not ideal. &#xA;On an older bike like that you lose some spring in the derailleur so it does not do as good a job at taking up slack.&#xA;Yes that chain is too short for big big but if you give it enough chain for that you may find it does have enough tension in smaller (tooth count) gears. &#xA;The cheapest solution is maybe to just stay away from big big and little little. Make the middle front your friend.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible (likely) that is not the original derailleur and does not have the capacity.   In the middle small picture the derailleur is close to maxed out the other diction.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T08:47:04.963" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T08:47:04.963" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30909" CreationDate="2015-05-28T14:07:21.103" Score="0" ViewCount="910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know the manufacturer of this aluminium MTB frame. It's serial number starts with the letters &quot;AF&quot;. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WEWB6.png&quot; alt=&quot;lat&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/34Dei.png&quot; alt=&quot;back&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JetA1.png&quot; alt=&quot;ped&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Dm6d.png&quot; alt=&quot;lat2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8140" LastEditorUserId="8140" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T08:06:06.007" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T13:57:10.893" Title="Frame manufacturer?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30887" CreationDate="2015-05-28T15:12:24.870" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chain is stuck because of its short length and cross-chaining - the chain links are severely bent. Also with the chain not clean it will not turn nicely in such a scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1vgA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also your chain is short, making your derailleur stretch forward (marked blue) which makes the cross-chaining even more severe (marked red). On such a stretched derailleur there are bad side forces (maybe the little wheels in the derailleur get stuck while being bent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For old drive trains cross-chaining was not accounted for as it is bad practice. Such rear derailleurs usually doesn't have a range like new ones. New bikes are designed to handle cross-chaining and such a chain would be definitely too small for them, but for old bikes it's more complicated. Looking at first picture where you have small-ring + small-gear (the shortest chain length) your derailleur could accommodate for a bit longer chain making the setup safer if you accidentally shift into big-ring + big-gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have the same gear ratio using other gears instead of cross-chaining:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9ncU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that 48T front 32T back (big-big) gives the same ratio as 36T front 24T back (middle-middle) which makes the chain straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The not-cross-chaining rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for small chain-ring use only the bigger half of your cassette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for middle ring you can use all your cassette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for big ring use only the smaller half of your cassette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice it's even less as this table of gear ratios explains (this is for 44-32-22 crank and 11-32 teeth cassette):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KxCOC.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need to cover with the big and small ring what cannot be covered with the middle ring. See how this &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/iqXRKsrJmnU?t=1m45s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;XTR9000 Di2 Syncro-Shift is shifting&lt;/a&gt;. When it shifts the front it also shifts the back at the same time, and it prevents cross-chaining. This video also shows gearing efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19624" LastEditorUserId="19624" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T11:49:33.667" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T11:49:33.667" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-28T16:12:33.373" Score="1" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own and commute on a 2009 KHS Flite100, bought used. Since purchasing it, I have spent around $250 getting it up to scratch, with new tires, pedals, saddle, and other small but worthwhile upgrades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I have noticed a rattling noise coming from the rear hub whenever I pedal. I have not been able to replicate this noise at the bike shop, but after a quick inspection I have been told that the hub has been overtightened, and will need to be disassembled. This will take my bike, used for daily commutes, out of commission for a couple of days, and cost me an estimated $50. That being said, I suspect that the problem is going to, in the end, cost me a new hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be common knowledge amongst cyclists that the most worthwhile major upgrade for a bike is a new set of wheels. Unfortunately, while the value and quality of standard road wheelsets has been well documented by various reliable sources, there seems to be very little information pertaining to track, or single speed wheelsets. I am finding it very difficult to separate genuine quality upgrades from primarily aesthetic ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike came stock with a pair of Weinmann DP17s and unbranded hubs. I would like to know if it is worth upgrading the wheels instead of having the hub rebuilt, and if so, what I should buy. I would prefer to pay less than $250, but I can (sort of) justify paying more if it's going to have a significant improvement on the general ride quality of my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input is greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19690" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T16:12:33.373" Title="Is it worth completely replacing my track wheelset?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-28T17:13:03.453" Score="2" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trac (no 'k') Forever 200 bicycle from China (complete with Chinese writing on it). Any idea who the manufacturer is? Is this bike common in China? I can't find anything online about them.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19693" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T20:20:10.530" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T19:10:33.427" Title="What is the name of the manufacturer of this Chinese made bicycle?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18691" CreationDate="2015-05-28T17:57:59.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dorenaz (CH), to go to the top of the mountain you must take a cable car for 5 min and the bike is upside down ... and then you ride a downhill trail where you need to brake really hard sometimes ... but I never have had a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Because if you have bled your brakes well when you service them there should be no air in the system :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19695" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T02:03:59.863" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T02:03:59.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30883" CreationDate="2015-05-28T18:24:56.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to remove your rear dérailleur without damaging it. Care should be taken (as with any job) not to damage the machine screws that hold the dérailleur cage together, or to lose the pulleys or screws. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pulleys do come in multiple pieces, so real care should be taken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fitting a 12-30 cassette on a short cage dura ace 10 speed dérailleur, Shimano says 28t is the maximum. You may be able to fit a 30t if you avoid cross-chaining, but it's better not go take that risk, as the failure consequences can be quite high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1259" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T18:24:56.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-28T20:09:23.380" Score="5" ViewCount="806" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies making ANOTHER one of these threads...Anyhows:&#xA;Bought a bike third hand, frame has been stripped and painted. Trying to find make &amp;amp; model so I can get some offset bushings for the shock. I'm guessing this was either a custom build or a lot has been swapped out since, but just in case:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork: Rockshox reba&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shock: Fox Float RPL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brakes/Calipers: Avid ELIXIR 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear derailleur: Shimano XTR, 9 speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most identifiable things I could notice was the uneven chainstays.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Material is aluminium.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Serial (under BB) starts with &quot;kcps00&quot; if that helps at all.&#xA;Can take more pictures if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/tjVy1U2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/Bp5Kxzc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chainstay closeup 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19698" LastActivityDate="2021-04-19T15:38:54.057" Title="Help identifying MTB frame" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16297" CreationDate="2015-05-28T20:20:56.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cycling as an enjoyment can be fulfilled on any bicycle as long as you enjoy cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my younger years I achieved a resting heart of 33 BPM riding an aluminum series 7005  generic racer at a  cost of £300.00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have this bicycle, most of the running gear has been replaced recently for Shimano Ultegra and Campagnolo Zonda wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in my early fifties, my right femur is 4cm short due to a motorcycle accident nearly thirty years ago. I now run a 28 tooth front ring due to knee issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets be honest, aluminum, steel,titanium or carbon does it really matter. I do realize reasonable specked components do make a noticeable difference to riding quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a person desire for cycling that inspires their performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those at the higher pinnacle of cycling who race professionally where crucial seconds matter only the best components will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may not be riding the latest carbon frame but I do enjoy riding the bike I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19699" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T20:20:56.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30872" CreationDate="2015-05-28T20:30:22.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;+20mm you should be able to get away with. Ride wise you're weight will be a tiny bit further back so will make hopping/manuals a bit easier, your front could be more likely to wash out in corners though. Really depends on the rest of your setup though and how you ride. All in all i don't think it will make a massive difference. I'd go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19698" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T20:30:22.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30473" CreationDate="2015-05-28T23:10:59.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a partial answer (how to deal with the bottom bracket, not what bike it is):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest solution (and likely best) is to buy the &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/grand-cru-threadless-bottom-brackets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;universal bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt; from Velo Orange (or similar). These basically expand to fit in, and don't affect or use the threads so they'll work on most standard BB road bike frames. It will be JIS (square taper). There is some more information at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://support.velo-orange.com/#bbarticle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't bother trying non-square taper -- you're likely not to find a way to fit anything else in. If you want to match the original threading, you'll likely have to buy from Phil Wood or Velo Orange and end up with a square taper anyway. Phil Wood will cost a lot of money, but Velo Orange will be around 40-50 bucks for the right threading (and around 70 for the universal). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, just buy your favorite square taper crankset (there are still a lot of good ones on the market) and go to town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T02:48:01.527" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T02:48:01.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30944" CreationDate="2015-05-29T01:07:48.897" Score="1" ViewCount="13337" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some verification of thought process. I have come across a nearly new lower level Diamonmdback 27.5&quot; hardtail MTB. The issue is the front 100mm fork is broken. Doing some online searching for a replacement fork has OEM budget forks (SuntourXCT) for roughly half of the bikes original cost. I can however purchase a 29er fork(Rockshox xc32) with some deep discounts for less than the Suntour. I realize the longer dropout to crown length of the 29er (19 1/4&quot; vs 17 1/4&quot; for a 27.5) will alter the handling. If I got an 80mm 29er fork, that difference would be cut in half. My thinking is that the 1&quot; difference in length would be similar to the difference of the fork length when set to &quot;soft&quot; dampening  versus &quot;firm&quot; dampening while static.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2017-07-23T03:07:16.910" Title="Can I swap a 29er fork inplace of a 27.5 if I maintain close to the same axle to crown length?" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30904" CreationDate="2015-05-29T02:48:58.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the axle is also higher, you need to really consider the Ground to Crown height rather than the axle to ground height. Also as the 29er is a larger diameter wheel, it may not clear the down tube, and may interfere with the feet when the pedals are horizontal.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining all this and the fact the geometry will alter the handling somewhat in ways that may or may not be significant depending on the bike and your person riding style it seems to be a fairly big risk. Only you can decide if its worth it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T02:48:58.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30761" CreationDate="2015-05-29T08:11:35.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel has an advantage over aluminium in that it bends rather than cracking.  So as long as your rim is true and not overly buckled its rideable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing 40 mph or 60 km/h suggests you're going downhill or you've got legs like steam pistons.  Steel rims are not as good at braking, and stopping from those speeds will take a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The discolouration on the rims suggest they are well used, and/or have been rubbing on the brake blocks.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about the slope on the sides - that's normal and to help caliper brakes close up flat onto the braking surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T08:11:35.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30887" CreationDate="2015-05-29T08:14:01.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use big-big or small-small combination.&#xA;Chain is too short. Drop by bike shop for confirmation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T08:14:01.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30886" CreationDate="2015-05-29T08:16:43.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably fine - if you're really worried, buy new inner tubes and carry one of those bigger ones as your spare.  Remember you're talking about 3 mm in size, in something made of rubber that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if its not race-perfect, will be good enough to get you home, or give away to a fellow cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could also run them on a stationary trainer if you use one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T08:16:43.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30892" CreationDate="2015-05-29T08:32:50.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know.  However the short head tube, the modern looking cranks and pedals, modern brakes suggest its in the last 10 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if the fork is the same age as the frame, because most MTBs had front suspension.   Perhaps the front fork was from something older.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheels may be original, because they appear well matched and to both have a double rim thickness. Front axle has nuts and a quick release on the rear, so one of those has likely changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the leather saddle and handgrips, and the moustache handlebar are more recent additions too, probably done as part of the fixed wheel / single speed conversion.   Paint looks relatively new too.  Consider adding &#xA;discrete reflectors like  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dx.com/p/bike-wheel-spoke-abs-safety-reflective-tube-reflector-grey-12-pcs-228130#.VWgjBer4uCg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dx.com/p/bike-wheel-spoke-abs-safety-reflective-tube-reflector-grey-12-pcs-228130#.VWgjBer4uCg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain tension might cause you problems over time - MTBs have fairly close to vertical dropouts, where as single speeds like BMX frames have a lot more adjustment forward and backward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If its good quality and works for you, care for it and should last decades.  Finally, be aware that nice looking bikes get stolen more, and black bikes get stolen more.  So nice looking black bikes get stolen a lot more.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T08:32:50.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30918" CreationDate="2015-05-29T08:59:46.947" Score="11" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two 26&quot; bicycles and I am considering investing in a super expensive Rohloff speedhub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if it would be possible to easily move the wheel with the rohloff hub from one bike to another - assuming of course that both have already been set up for it (shifter, cable, and everything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14620" LastEditorUserId="14620" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T07:20:00.413" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T07:20:00.413" Title="How easy (or hard) is to move a Rohloff speedhub from one bicycle to another?" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30887" CreationDate="2015-05-29T12:14:38.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that, before long-cage derailers became common (roughly 1985), it was not uncommon for the large/large cog combo to lock up the chain.  This was considered &quot;normal&quot;, and cyclists simply knew to avoid that combo (as well as small/small in some cases).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The derailer in the photos appears to have a reasonably long cage, but judging from the slack in the chain in the small/small photo, not long enough for that cogset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this appears to be a reasonably new bike, I'm guessing that some component has been changed (either cogs or rear derailer) and that is the cause of the problem.  Simply lengthening the chain would appear likely (based on the first photo) to cause problems with the small/small combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you still want to try to lengthen the chain, &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; try to add links to the exiting one -- get a new chain.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T12:14:38.293" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30853" CreationDate="2015-05-29T12:56:28.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the pistons extract evenly without pads but uneven with pads, one of the pads is giving more resistance. Try to clean the whole inside of caliper and check the pads and how they fit inside..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19624" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T12:56:28.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30892" CreationDate="2015-05-29T13:57:10.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 99.99% sure that it's a generic plain &quot;eBay&quot; frame.  The kind you find for $200 or less online.  It's definitely not a reputable brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find the one you have in your post.  Here is an example of a &quot;track&quot; frame on eBay.  It's inexpensive, unbranded, etc...:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-MTA-Single-Speed-Track-Fixie-Fixed-Frame-Fork-/200622664280&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eBay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine that yours is similar, just the MTB version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17316" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T13:57:10.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30940" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:10:30.553" Score="1" ViewCount="1242" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear brake never locks the rear wheel even with full pull on the lever, especially going down hill or fast. I can even pedal a bit with the brake depressed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a recent issue and sometime in a ride the full braking force returns for a couple of minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My pads are in a very bad condition and I've have new ones on order. My question is if they can be the reason for my problem? The bike was bought used so I don't know its history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear pads:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YZfWE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front pads:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4Zjr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front, no flash:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yXf6P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front pads&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the disc, which looks ok:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6oUYD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rotor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T04:55:23.787" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T06:21:00.240" Title="Are my disc brake pads contaminated?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30919" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:19:11.757" Score="2" ViewCount="2550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've misplaced mine, and noticed the other caliper doesn't have the other one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How important are these? I mean, do pads fail or come loose at times, without these safety feature present?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to find a replacement?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other components have those?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the back of a Deore M-535 caliper, where the pin is marked at the places it should have been secured,&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FRuny.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;caliper&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T22:24:11.480" Title="What are the securing rings on the disc brake pads pin called?" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:51:41.820" Score="2" ViewCount="10340" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike is a mid 80s Miyata with early Shimano 105 components. It's a 10 speed, 5 speed cog and 2 chain rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently had my front derailleur set up again by a good mechanic after it stopped shifting at all. He reinstalled the derailleur to height/angle, adjusted the limits, and installed a new cable. It shifted great for a few days, super fluid and quick. Now it has trouble traveling far enough to reach the larger chain ring and I feel like the shift cable stretched a bit and needs to be re-tensioned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it likely the shift cable needs to be re-tensioned? Or the limits need to be readjusted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19712" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T05:27:47.933" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T05:27:47.933" Title="How to re-tension front derailleur cable" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30910" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:52:12.540" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If both bikes have a frame which is set up for it, with the long drop-out on the Thorn pictured below and the EX Box below it, then it would be the work of 5 minutes. Just unscrew (possibly by hand) that big nut on the ex-box, remove the wheel and put it onto the other bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BSVrW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rohloff-specific frame with EX-box&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue to remember is to always shift to the same gear (say, the lowest) before you remove the EX-box and ensure the shifter is in that position when you reconnect, otherwise you won't be able to get into all the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand it's a more complicated set up with a reaction arm like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XmXgE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rohloff mounted with reaction arm&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it might be more complicated. Then again, perhaps the arm can be disconnected with a single pin, I haven't tried it. The two cables under the black flexible plastic cable covers will also need to be disconnected. I'm not sure how hard that is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T14:52:12.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30915" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:57:30.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually it's called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Retaining_ring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Retaining-Ring&lt;/a&gt;, poodle-ring or a split-ring. They will look something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BECyu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Special pliers are made for their removal and installation, but I usually just use needle-nose pliers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with that particular model of caliper, but I do think replacing the ring is probably important. In a pinch, you can tightly wrap and twist a piece of wire in the groove usually occupied by the ring to hold you until you get the right part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local bike shop may have spares specific to that part. You can also try your local hardware store. In the screws and bolts section the will usually have bins of split retaining rings because regardless of the application, when you remove one the &quot;springiness&quot; tends to make them fling off into the tall grass and get lost (at least whenever I do maintenance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T15:39:04.607" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T15:39:04.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30917" CreationDate="2015-05-29T15:08:18.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you rode the bike enough over the few days, yes it is likely the cable stretched, this is normal for a new cable. However, if you have only ridden a few miles, it is possible the retainer on the cable was not tightened down properly &amp;amp; the cable has slipped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest making certain the screw securing the cable to the derailleur is tight. If it is, adjusting the limit screws will likely be enough to regain full shifting range. If it appears the cable may have slipped, I'd suggest going back to the mechanic &amp;amp; have him re-adjust it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to adjust the limit screws, reference the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#front&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown instructions.&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It sounds like you may need to adjust the high gear limit more than the low:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The high-gear limit stop is pretty straightforward. It should be set so that the chain almost rubs on the outside plate of the front derailer cage when the bicycle is in its highest gear (large front/small rear). This will reduce the need for trimming as you shift the rear derailer.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T15:08:18.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30915" CreationDate="2015-05-29T20:08:45.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to be known as an R-Clip or an R-pin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R-clip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R-clip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pin which actually holds the pads in is threaded and on all the Shimano brakes I've ever owned with this setup (3 bikes) I have never encountered a situation where the pin has come loose and the R-clip would have been required to stop the pin coming out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally the clip should be there should the worst happen, but personally I'd have no reservations riding without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13682" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T20:08:45.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30926" CreationDate="2015-05-29T20:24:29.533" Score="1" ViewCount="1246" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have noticed a lot of scraping on the inside of my Trushift 44T plate. Is it just a function of distance, time and color or is it a clue that something is not working properly? The bike was bought used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my chainring (bottom) and another from my buddy's bike. Mine did more km so it is not a perfect comparison but still:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1z6tD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T03:46:00.710" Title="Why is my big chainring is so scratched form the inside?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T20:30:36.490" Score="1" ViewCount="2800" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dealing with chain skipping (but mostly on the smaller chainrings, truth be told) I've wondered how these affect the riding and how many problems and what kind should i expect from these two broken teeth on the big plate, and close together as well:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ADyQB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T08:08:50.037" Title="What symptoms can I expect from two broken teeth on a chainring?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30927" CreationDate="2015-05-29T21:33:04.700" Score="2" ViewCount="4076" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's 37T here &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/components11/road/sora1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/components11/road/sora1.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But 31T here&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-sora-9-speed-rear-derailleur-1/#prodbullets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-sora-9-speed-rear-derailleur-1/#prodbullets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is the difference? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to install a 50/34 rings with 11-28 cassette. I have the cassette and RD already but not sure if the RD has the enough capacity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17275" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T22:25:29.050" Title="Shimano sora 9 Speed rear derailleur capacity" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30923" CreationDate="2015-05-29T21:33:19.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some damage is to be expected caused by upshifts, that said, anecdotally speaking (i.e., based on personal experience), that amount of damage looks excessive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Speculation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if the front derailleur was misadjusted so that it could be in the upper position, but not far enough for the chain to properly catch and upshift.  If the derailleur was left in the upper position the chain could partially catch then drop back down to the lower ring.  If ignored and ridden in that position over many, many miles the chain would continual catch and drop, wearing the inner side of the ring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of upshift functionality, all that really matters is whether the ramps and pins remain functional.  That is hard to assess from the photo (although I see some intact pins).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8s30Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chainring ramps and pins&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Next Steps&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is make sure that the front derailleur is adjusted properly.  If the upshifts are still acceptable, then don't worry about the damage as it would be largely superficial in this case (i.e., the pins and ramps can still do their job). If you cannot get it to upshift reasonably well then you should look at replacing the affected ring(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, with that much wear it is also worth taking a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/429/does-this-chainring-need-to-be-replaced&quot;&gt;teeth profile the teeth themselves are excessively worn&lt;/a&gt;, such that a new chain may skip.  This would be a different problem than the inner surface wear discussed here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/429/does-this-chainring-need-to-be-replaced&quot;&gt;Does this chainring need to be replaced?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T21:33:19.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30925" CreationDate="2015-05-29T22:14:32.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two 9 speed Sora groups, 3400 (older, with thumb button shifters for upshifts) and 3500 (current, with a paddle for upshifts). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shimano.com.au/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SORA/SI_5VY0A_001/SI_5VY0A_001_En_v1_m56577569830614952.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano RD-3400&lt;/a&gt; SS has capacity 31t and GS has capacity 37t, both with 11t smallest sprocket, 27t largest sprocket (and 16t chainring and 22t chainring difference respectively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/1.7/ROAD/Rear%20Derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano RD-3500&lt;/a&gt; has SS with capacity 37t (front difference &amp;lt;=16) and GS with capacity 41t (front difference &amp;lt;=20). The sprocket ranges have to be (11-14)t to (25-32)t for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wiggle doesn't list which one they're selling, but it looks like they have part of a description from 3400 and part from 3500. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, if you were to buy one, you should get the RD-3500 SS or GS. However, in reality, you can likely use any of them (the specs the manufacturers list can be violated by a tooth or two, normally), at your own risk, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T22:25:29.050" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T22:25:29.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30915" CreationDate="2015-05-29T22:24:11.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a pin (which you have) and a clip (which you don't). They are part of the brakes's Pad Retention system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are important because they ensure the brake pads stay in place. You can buy them online, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=31962&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for example, but if your local shop is cool they should give you one from the lots of spares they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it easy using your bike while you don't get it fixed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T22:24:11.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30937" CreationDate="2015-05-29T22:28:54.557" Score="4" ViewCount="3117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased my first bicycle since I was a kid. The bike I bought has individual gear levers for shifting up and down for both the front and rear gears. I thought it was odd that these levers are set up in such a way that shifting the lever with my thumb shifts up on the front and down on the rear gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this typical to all bikes with front and rear gear systems? Is there a way to change it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19720" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T01:12:08.777" Title="Is it typical for the front and rear gear levers to be reversed?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30929" CreationDate="2015-05-29T22:32:41.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is normal for Shimano trigger shifters, and you'll get used to it quickly. SRAM trigger shifters can be operated up and down with thumbs. And there are grip shifts which turn a bit on the handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from possibly trigger-&gt;gripshifts, you'd be doing a decent amount of drivetrain overhaul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T22:32:41.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T23:04:54.553" Score="1" ViewCount="850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Maillard freewheel, big cog stamped 10 - 84, which i have taken apart, cleaned, lubed, and reassembled following the excellent youtube by RJ the bike guy &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/T_vRbBRPr3c?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i don't know for certain, but i may have &quot;misplaced&quot; the spacers which slide down the body and allow the pin spanner locknut from crushing the bearings. the freewheel is back together, but i cannot tighten the locknut and still have the cogs rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q; how far up the river am i, and what can i do to get new spacers/ what size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19623" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T16:42:23.877" Title="Maillard Freewheel refurbishing" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14517" CreationDate="2015-05-29T23:31:28.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past year, have gotten 5 rear flats and 0 front, while riding in bike lanes. 3 flats were caused by small metal pieces, 1 by a thorn, and 1 by a screw. Suspect that the front wheel lifted up these items and the rear wheel rode over them at a puncture angle (straight into the tire). This must be happening since the metal items would normally lay flat on the ground, explaining why flats are on the rear. Am riding 20+ mph, which means the rear tire passes over where the front was very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19721" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T23:31:28.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29118" CreationDate="2015-05-29T23:37:50.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know if your answer was answered yet; I found blow ups of bicycle parts for 1987 Rockhopper at this website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mauisvintage.blogspot.com/2010/06/exploded-shimano-parts-diagrams-for.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mauisvintage.blogspot.com/2010/06/exploded-shimano-parts-diagrams-for.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19722" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T23:37:50.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-30T00:57:15.107" Score="0" ViewCount="2265" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically when pushing the button to shift gear I can only get one speed up and one speed down. I tried adjusting derailer and the tightness on cables but it makes no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figured I'd make a video to explain it better&#xA;here you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/N86AkyA7gn4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks and  ask questions if needed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19727" LastEditorUserId="24430" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T18:18:47.540" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T18:18:47.540" Title="Shimano Gears won't shift" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30952" CreationDate="2015-05-30T01:17:21.883" Score="1" ViewCount="1489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I biked to school today with my bike in perfect condition. Locked it up and went to class. When I went to my bike a couple hours later, the derailleur was bent out of position. My bike's front gear was at 3, but the derailleur was forced to the first/smallest sprocket. Now I can't shift gears on my front wheel as the derailleur won't move. Is this fixable? Or do I need to buy a new derailleur. If it's fixable, would it be difficult for me to do it myself out should I simply take it to a shop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZbRsQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19725" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T10:12:06.377" Title="Bent front-derailleur" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30929" CreationDate="2015-05-30T01:25:03.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gear shifting has historical lineage, not always &quot;logical&quot; or intuitive by modern logic as observed by newcomers to the activity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally, cables actuated the pulling of a mechanism, and release meant relaxing the tension, which mostly then let a spring return the mechanism to its lowest state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This translated to pulling = lifting/pushing the system up, against the gears, so moving the chain from smaller, up onto bigger sets of cogs. Dropping = the easier task of letting the chain fall from big to smaller rings, which the internal spring could handle. When indexed shifting arrived about 30 years ago it just aligned the clicks to a particular gear; then, first in mountain bikes, then road, the integrated levers made one lever for up, the other for down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue you're asking about relates to the fact that &quot;bigger&quot; gears up front do increase your gear, but in the rear they &lt;em&gt;decrease&lt;/em&gt;, or lower your gear. The release of most thumb levers relaxes the cable, which drops the front to a lower gear, but drops the rear to a higher gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a few unsuccessful exceptions that tried to use the spring to push the chain onto bigger sprockets, this is still the general pattern - EXCEPT Now, I understand Electronic systems can be programmed entirely different, even mixing left and right signals front to back, an exceedingly confusing idea in my opinion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learning to shift the traditional logic is easy enough to master in a couple weeks, so don't get worked up about something thousands have managed to cope with just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grip shifts are my preferred MTB choice, but again the tension/detension concept applies relative to which way you rotate the barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19726" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T05:18:36.430" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T05:18:36.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30924" CreationDate="2015-05-30T01:32:02.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only issues will be directly observed, i.e. either it will mis-shift, over-shift/drop the chain, or not. These don't look like proper ramp teeth which do resemble broken ones, except they're usually spaced 2 or 4 evenly around the ring. The wear looks advanced enough that you really have no excuse not to just get another new or less worn ring and avoid problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19726" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T01:32:02.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30917" CreationDate="2015-05-30T01:43:50.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with others here - cables stretch only slightly, requiring one or two clicks/half turns of whatever barrel adjuster, either typically next to the headtube, or for the rear also where the cable meets the derailleur body. More than that, implies the cable actually slipped because the nut clamping it at the derailleur wasn't tightened enough.&#xA;  These are not complex issues, and every cyclist should learn how to at least make these basic adjustments, on principle to be more self-reliant, and also to free yourself from constant, costly, inconvenient trips to the shop. That said, the shop that did all the work should definitely follow up on what appears to be related to their work. Cables can also not be seated fully in the frame points etc. so another possibility exists there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19726" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T01:43:50.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30914" CreationDate="2015-05-30T01:46:25.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These look pretty far gone, as suggested. Lucky the rotor isn't scored, or that would cost more than a set of pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19726" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T01:46:25.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30887" CreationDate="2015-05-30T02:06:06.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like a standard Campy triple front/ long arm rear setup. Definitely too short a chain, as your small-small picture 1 clearly shows the rear derailleur is not fully &quot;wound up&quot; regarding taking the slack of the chain up. New chain is really the only safe way to go; 9sp has more alternatives, like Wipperman etc. with quick links to facilitate removal, cleaning, versus Campy's pricey chains, fixed pins, pricey tools, etc.&#xA;  Go online before you install, to learn how to measure new chain, but should save your system grief down the line; false economy to try splicing with other chains, especially on Campy. Triples usually have near-redundant gearing combos so the cross-chaining is both bad and unnecessary, and traditionally to be avoided. Good news is you will be sitting and spinning past buddies on steep climbs as their knees cry out. You will be spending a lot more when the G-springs fail in the shifter innards, but hey, that's the price for riding with panache. Caio!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19726" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T02:06:06.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2015-05-30T02:19:30.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basic identification should be a reasonable request, as is cash only from the seller's side.&#xA;  Get a written receipt as well, with the full info of the seller, selling price, etc. along with your full info, one one sheet, dated and signed by both parties, so IF you get stopped with what turns out to be a stolen bike, you are not left to take the fall.&#xA;  If feasible, arrange to meet for the sale at a public place with a friend, and especially not at your place; some cities now even advise the police station as such. Remember, you may be carrying a couple hundred in cash to meet a stranger, so caution is hardly excessive. Craigslist is the cradle of more creative scams and occasional homicides than seems possible, so back away if something seems off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19726" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T02:19:30.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="692" CreationDate="2015-05-30T02:31:25.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;NEVER use Simple Green on chains! It is a phosphoric acid solution, which can micro-etch steel, and lead to cracks which can lead to chain breakage/failure. Neutral pH solutions are ok to wash the bike, but chains are going to eventually require solvents like Finish LIne or other bike-friendly sprays. Ideally, removing from the bike to soak in naphtha/Coleman fuel is a great option, followed by re-lubing. On the bike is impossible but interim spraying/rag wiping, re-lubing, will be an adequate compromise. Bike specific lubes are better than most alternatives, especially WD-40 (weak oil in solvent) or motor oil, ATF, etc. Wax bath is surprisingly now the latest old-is-new-again trick, but requires removal, solvent clean and dry, then melting to soak and drip excess before cooling and re-installing. Stays much cleaner, little dirt attraction, low friction, and can be oiled before next re-waxing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19726" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T02:31:25.370" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30904" CreationDate="2015-05-30T03:36:01.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your analysis is correct, the difference between a 29'r fork and a 27.5 fork gets lost in the noise when you consider the variation in sag and setup as long as you stick with a 27.5 wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a 29'r fork and 27.5&quot; front wheel on my 26 inch bike. This is enough of a difference to significantly change the geometry of the bike, but it's a change I like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a 29'r fork allows you a wide range of 27.5 tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T03:36:01.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30936" CreationDate="2015-05-30T03:38:23.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You say it's bent, but we can't confirm that by the picture. (Your picture is very sharp, but a side view would be helpful) It looks (as someone else commented) like the derailleur may have slipped down the seat tube. If you can't determine exactly what the problem is, you probably should take it to a shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T03:38:23.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30886" CreationDate="2015-05-30T03:40:24.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's perfectly safe to use the next larger size tube in a smaller tire. It's a common trick used by bike messengers to reduce the chance of flats. The only downside is a slightly heavier wheel since you're using more tube that you really need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T03:40:24.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30923" CreationDate="2015-05-30T03:46:00.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to look for in modern chainrings is that the mark for the crank arm is matched on the chainring. The pins and ramps are meant to be at a certain point&#xA;on the ring relative to the crank arm. It's possible to put the chain ring on such that the chain slides a bit before hitting the pins and ramps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pins are designed to shift at the lowest tension in the pedaling cycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be a small bump or mark on the chainring to indicate how it should be &#xA;positioned relative to the crank arm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T03:46:00.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30935" CreationDate="2015-05-30T03:48:35.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't really tell much by your video. We see you clicking up &amp;amp; clicking down, but you don't appear to be turning the cranks. The gears will not shift unless the drive train is in motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T03:48:35.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30929" CreationDate="2015-05-30T04:39:57.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, the shifting (front &amp;amp; rear) are the same. Moving either shifter so that cable is pulled, causes the chain to move onto a larger sprocket (front chain-ring or rear cog) &amp;amp; releasing cable allows spring tension in the derailleur to move the chain to a smaller sprocket. However, a larger chain-ring results in a larger gear ratio (higher gear) and a larger rear cog results in a smaller gear ratio (lower gear). So, the same action on front or rear shifter has the opposite effect on gear ratio. In practice, it only takes a little time before you begin shifting automatically; you will shift up and down on the front or rear without thinking about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T04:39:57.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="743" CreationDate="2015-05-30T08:25:05.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will not work everywhere, but where I live, if you need a cheap second hand bike you ask around your network of relatives and friends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people have bought bikes in the past for a wide range of reasons and quite a few of those are collecting dust and/or rust now. Most of those owners do not go through the trouble of selling the bike actively but might be willing to let it go to someone they know or friends of friends. Most of the time the costs will be low, in the 'stolen bike warning' range, but not because the bike has been stolen but because the owners really do not need the money and like to help out people, or are seriously happy to get someone who takes that unwanted bike of their hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The down side is that the bike(s) you are offered might not be the model or make you would like best, but it is always worth it asking around if you do have the time. This question is about buying a bike for yourself, but someone else might read it and if you are looking for a bike for a friend who is out of money it is certainly worth asking around. Most people rather see a bike used than go to the waste heap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T08:25:05.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30936" CreationDate="2015-05-30T10:12:06.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several possibilities... its happened by normal wear and tear, or someone's put a boot into your bike and bend things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the latter, then the cage could be bent or rotated.  Hang the bike up and spin the pedals by hand, while using your other hand to change gears.  Try and eyeball what's not working.  Do be mindful of hair and fingers getting caught in moving parts - this hurts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try moving the cage directly by hand, and also by pulling on the right wire.  Could be that the wire clamp has slipped and the cage has been moved by the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think it was damaged by someone, just don't park your bike on the end of the rack.  Same defence helps with knife-induced punctures etc - there are some vandalistic people out there, and some of them even ride bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally - bikes are just simple machines.  Don't be scared to give it a try.  The worst that can happen is it doesn't work right, so try again.  Do let us know how you get on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T10:12:06.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30966" CreationDate="2015-05-30T11:56:42.303" Score="5" ViewCount="2117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to unscrew rear wheel to replace inner tube. I haven't fully detached it, just to the moment I was able to replace tube. After reattaching wheel I can't setup gears shifting (that's my first time actually). As I read in different guides I need to rotate adjusting barrel until markers are matched on speed 4, but using this barrel I'm able to match it only near speed 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else should I adjust? Or have I done something wrong (maybe reattaching wheel)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19684" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T19:27:18.137" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T12:50:47.533" Title="Can't setup shifting on Shimano Nexus 7 after unscrewing wheel" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30932" CreationDate="2015-05-30T14:24:08.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;this week should be the litmus test. i had to order a freewheel removal tool (Maillard 40 mm x 24 notch if memory serves) and i have found 2 companies* that might have the parts i need. i've had to put it down for a couple of days and take a deep breath. i'll regroup and go at it again when the remover arrives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike Tools Etc. &amp;amp;&#xA;Loose Screws Bicycle Small Parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19623" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T14:24:08.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30959" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-30T20:06:14.437" Score="4" ViewCount="3125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got a brand new shimano 105 FD double. I put the chain on the small ring and when I adjust the limit screw the cage can't go towards the frame enough so that the chain can't go to the largest rear cog because of the cage stop it from moving further to the frame. Then I started inspecting the FD and found the cage won't move a bit at all. To prove it I removed the two limit screws and tried to move the cage by hand and it just won't move. I don't have experience in it but watched many videos on YouTube and saw people moving the cage easily by hand to adjust FD. So wondering if there is something wrong with my FD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&#xA;The FD is fine, the problem is my FD hanger is extending a little bit too much from the seat post which makes the FD too far away from the frame. And my chain and cassette is 9 speed, and the FD is 10 speed so the FD cage a little bit tight here for a 9 speed chain. I googled a lot and found a solution is to use a 8 speed FD, which got much bigger size cage and can move further to the frame somehow. This plus a one mm BB spacer on the drive side solve the problem. I was not sure where was the problem at first so thought it might be the problem of FD itself, but it's just not compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17275" LastEditorUserId="17275" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T08:51:57.990" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T08:51:57.990" Title="Shimano 105 front derailleur cage won't move at all" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30450" CreationDate="2015-05-30T20:07:55.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end I got the Shimano M424s and Specialised Cadets.  The M424s aren't much worse with trainers than my previous Wellgo plastic platforms, but @Trengot is spot on that the spring-loaded bit doesn't do much of any use.  I wouldn't fancy wearing smooth-soled shoes on them but hiking boots or trainers are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cadets are quite nice on platform pedals as well.  To get them to fit cleanly with the M424s I needed to file down some of the grips on the pedals (I could have cut away at the shoe as someone else has done, but pedals are cheaper and easier to repair (drill out and tap in grubscrews for example) had I got it wrong.  As for the walkable-shoes sceptics, you can't feel the cleat at all; you can sometimes hear it hit the ground, perhaps on a bit of grit.  The sole is claimed to be stiffness index 4, which makes it comparable to hiking boots, they're no problem to wear all day, and even jog a mile or so on hard ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2018-02-01T09:40:03.323" LastActivityDate="2018-02-01T09:40:03.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30995" CreationDate="2015-05-30T20:49:28.183" Score="8" ViewCount="5349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of getting a pair of tubeless ready wheels for riding on the road.  I've never ridden tubeless and was wondering what tools and equipment I need to carry to fix a flat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, while riding with clinchers I carry a spare tube, CO2 and nozzle, tire levers, a small multi-tool and allen wrench. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I carry for riding road with tubeless tires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2019-07-26T19:06:01.870" Title="What tools do I need to carry when riding tubeless?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30963" CreationDate="2015-05-30T20:54:27.233" Score="16" ViewCount="58628" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does UD, 3K, 12K carbon mean and how do they differ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19624" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T09:01:31.653" Title="Difference between UD, 3K and 12K carbon finish?" Tags="&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30962" CreationDate="2015-05-30T20:54:27.233" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;UD, 3K and 12K specify the carbon weave pattern. 3K means there are 3,000 filaments per &quot;tow&quot;, 12K means there are 12,000 and UD means unidirectional (no pattern):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lVgcj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The construction of bike parts is always UD, only the top layer when naked can be specified to these different finish types. Also there is usually an option to choose between matte or glossy. Matte results in more stealthy look, glossy will make the pattern pop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G5nyc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the frame is painted it's UD underneath (usually branded frames are all painted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for physical properties, UD is the strongest, then there is 12K and last 3K. The finish is only the top-layer so the differences are only cosmetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also encounter a 18K weave (usually on road rims) which looks like this (glossy/matte). Its similar to 12K (but a bit bigger) and you can also see how a seam looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKxPW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12K is well recognisable from distance, 3K and UD you can differentiate when standing closer and they also usually look better up close than 12K (there are more visible irregularities in 12K weave than 3K up close). This is how 3K looks up close:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uOTIA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19624" LastEditorUserId="19624" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T09:01:31.653" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T09:01:31.653" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-31T01:06:05.487" Score="0" ViewCount="1495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a terrible crash on my Cannondale CADD10 105 (11spd) and wrecked the crankset (the bigger ring bent). It is FSA Gossamer Pro, BB30, 52/36 from the website. Is there an identical one available for replacement? I couldn't find any on Amazon or online store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what does BB30 mean? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19738" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T14:54:02.603" Title="cannondale cadd10 105 crankset replacement" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30964" CreationDate="2015-05-31T01:32:21.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;BB30 is the type of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/complete-guide-to-bottom-brackets-36660/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bottom bracket&lt;/a&gt; you use (so you need a 52/36 crankset which is for a BB30 bottom bracket). Many of the parts that ship with a bike are OEM only, but you can get compatible ones. If you're looking at FSA branded stuff, look for cranksets marked &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/bottom-bracket-standards-demystified/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BB386EVO&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/straighten-chw.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;straightening&lt;/a&gt; your existing chainrings with an crescent wrench in some cases or replace them, if thats where the damage is (as noted by Nik in the comments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Yours is the semi-compact &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/cranksets-road/gossamer-pro-compact-crankset-5034-5236-bb386evo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FSA Gossamer Pro BB386 Evo&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T04:03:06.593" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T04:03:06.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30953" CreationDate="2015-05-31T04:19:06.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;4th gear and lining up the dots is only necessary when you are setting the cable length (during installation). You do not need to deal with that if all you did was remove the wheel. Shift so that you have enough cable to slide into the proper groove and hook the cable fixing bolt to the shifting pulley mechanism. I sometimes use one thumb to rotate the attachment point on the pulley forward to make it easier to slide the cable into place. See page 26 here &lt;a href=&quot;https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-SG0003-00-ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-SG0003-00-ENG.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your wheel appears to be in the correct location based on the bite marks from the now-removed axle nut&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check all points on the cable to make sure a ferrule is hanging you up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2019-07-12T12:50:47.533" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T12:50:47.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-31T04:27:04.387" Score="2" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed my rim tape then noticed was too wide so I trimmed it with a razor knife. Would this have caused any damage to the rim bead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19739" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T15:31:59.260" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T16:55:49.453" Title="Can you trim rim tape once installed?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30971" CreationDate="2015-05-31T05:02:44.397" Score="3" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw someone after buying a new bicycle (a hybrid), pulled the brake as hard as he could for few seconds and dragged the cycle along while braking like that, 1 brake per centimeter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did he do this? I didn't had a chance to ask him but did he do this to test something or fix something? Is it usual to do this to new cycles? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here one more thing I should mention is that the brakes are mechanical disc brakes and before doing this to his cycle, his brake tuning was fine and after doing that, the tuning was not fine at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11179" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T08:17:22.850" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T13:40:17.723" Title="Brake hard on new cycle" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;&lt;new-bicycle-assembly&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30997" CreationDate="2015-05-31T07:06:25.320" Score="2" ViewCount="1946" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my second attempt to setup a Shimano 5800 groupset from scratch.  The problem on both bikes has been that downshifting worked to a point, but upshifting never works. The process isn't detailed very well in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/dm/DM-ST0002-04-ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;docs&lt;/a&gt;, but the following is what I've done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tapped the B lever (upshift) 10+ times. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread the cable through the lever. Use the correct Shimano provided housing end with extra sheath for the cable. Close the flap. Make sure end is pulled into place for no lever side cable slack. I don't have a third hand tool so maybe my mistake is here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attach cable to rear derailleur. Again slack with no third hand tool. Tighten by compressing the derailleur and pulling the cable by hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Downshift as far as it'll go. I had planned to set the derailleur adjustment screws once I has in the largest gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now the B lever feels like it's not engaging the cable at all. Unable to upshift at all. B lever does move freely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been through this three or four times and the outcome has been the same. Any ideas what I might be missing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19740" LastEditorUserId="19740" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T19:10:18.957" LastActivityDate="2017-02-21T21:57:47.253" Title="Problem setting up Shimano 5800 levers for the first time" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;installation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30964" CreationDate="2015-05-31T10:01:47.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BB30 is Cannondale's (now open) standard for how the crankset fits into the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cannondale invented the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/uk_gb/innovation/bb30/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BB30&lt;/a&gt; bottom bracket in 2000 and debuted it at the Tour De France (I couldn't find any information about how they faired) in 2006 the BB30 became an free international standard allowing any cycle manufacturer to use it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The BB30 International Standard provides the specifications for an oversized bottom bracket shell for a bike frame. This standard allows for Direct-fit, pressed-in bearings and a 30 mm spindle. The system saves weight by accepting a 30mm aluminum spindle and eliminating cups that would normally hold the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The claimed advantage of BB30 is an increase in stiffness and a 4% increase in drivetrain efficiency, achieved through an increase in size allowing larger diameter frame tubes. (according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/uk_gb/innovation/bb30/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cannondale&lt;/a&gt; - I don't have the rep to comment!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/nam_en/2015/bikes/road/elite-road/caad10/caad10-5-105&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Caad10&lt;/a&gt; uses 110 BCD 5 arm chainring, if you put that into your favourite search engine there are a large selection of chainrings that will be compatible. You don't specifically need to replace them with the same size chainring, you can change them depending on your requirements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shimano 105 chainrings should be a direct replacement, and are relatively inexpensive. Personally I wouldn't try to straighten an old chainring, as the metal would have stretched and you are unlikely to get it back to being entirely flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19723" LastEditorUserId="19723" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T14:54:02.603" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T14:54:02.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30968" CreationDate="2015-05-31T13:40:17.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't add a comment yet so I provide this as an answer. The guy was bedding or burning-in the brakes. It makes sure the pads are seated and wiped of factory oil, grease, and other contaminants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/17597/disc-brake-break-in&quot;&gt;Disc brake break-in?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like he was doing it wrong. Unless the fact that the brakes weren't working after he did it indicates that the process uncovered a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T13:40:17.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30980" CreationDate="2015-05-31T16:40:15.300" Score="0" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi my friend found an Giant Glory 2 2013 large for a good price. He is 180cm tall and the recommendation for the bike is 185cm+ so my question is will he be able to ride it or will it be too big?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19741" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T20:00:25.183" Title="Giant Glory size" Tags="&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-31T17:17:58.730" Score="3" ViewCount="2659" Body="&lt;p&gt;A failed stealing attempt left my Bianchi Via Nirone 7 road bike with an ugly damage to the frame. The bike is still in place, and it hurts me every time I go to the bike shed. They removed the front wheel and twisted it 90 degrees, with the back wheel all the way up. The Kriptonite 2 D lock bent, but did not give in. Same for the frame. There is a big dent on the top tube of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering buying a frame and having it replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on which tools I could use to remove the jammed Kriptonite Series 2 lock?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When looking for frames, what are the technical specs that I have to pay attention to if I want to be able to re-use the fork, the seat tube and the pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How unsafe is it to use the bike with a dented frame?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19742" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T03:04:03.487" Title="Can I change my bike's frame?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30973" CreationDate="2015-05-31T17:26:12.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An angle grinder with metal cutting disk (or abrasive disk) will remove a U-lock in about 30 seconds. It is shocking how easy it is to cut through the shank. The one consolation is that it does make a lot of noise and a lot of sparks (and requires either a power cord or an expensive battery grinder), otherwise more thieves would be using them. If you do not have access to an angle grinder (and don't want to stop by your local bike shop, auto mechanic, or police station, all of whom will undoubtedly have one), then a hacksaw with a &lt;strong&gt;new&lt;/strong&gt; blade  (or two) will eventually cut through, although it may take up to half an hour of vigorous sawing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to bring over most of your previous components. However, be aware that bottom bracket sizes/types have changed considerably, the caliper distance (reach) and mounting style of brakes have changed, and there are peculiarities to seat tube and front forks based on country and year. Thus, unless you are replacing an early 1990s Italian road frame with an early 1990s Italian road frame (for example), you may find limited component capability. Pedals for almost all  recent bikes (except some cheap BSOs and children's bikes) are standardized thread so those will come over fine.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, dented frames are dangerous -- especially aluminium and carbon fiber as their failure modes can be quite dramatic. Steel frames tend to fail more slowly (and can be re-welded).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; Things that you can bring over (in general): Handlebars, brifters, seat, pedals, crankset, seat, front and rear derailleurs (with caveats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you might not be able to bring over (unless your bike is the same era/style): bottom bracket, steerer/stem, seat stem, brakes, forks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T01:55:40.507" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T01:55:40.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30991" CreationDate="2015-05-31T17:51:09.107" Score="2" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I have a quill adjustable stem on a Raleigh Royale. (The bike is an absolute dream to ride, wonderful seat and great gearing) My issue is that the handlebars wobble, both front and back and side to side. They definitely don't wobble at the face  plate area. I'm certain it's at the adjustable part of the stem. The bike is a Raleigh Royale. I've taken as many pictures as I can. Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dZ5pR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bolts&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LUoCv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TKtHR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nciXY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;where stem wobbles&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zL9ff.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gC7zE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ez5pn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19743" LastEditorUserId="19743" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T20:12:18.430" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T03:20:52.540" Title="Adjustable stem issue" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30976" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-31T17:56:56.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/270/8&quot;&gt;Glossary entry for &quot;stem&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="8" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T19:56:38.447" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T19:56:38.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30977" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-31T17:56:56.537" Score="0" Body="The stem is the part of the bicycle that secures the handlebars to the fork." OwnerUserId="19743" LastEditorUserId="19743" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T14:30:41.957" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T14:30:41.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30985" CreationDate="2015-05-31T18:34:03.167" Score="4" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bought a second hand Garmin Edge 800 for a while ago. So far, I'm nothing but delighted about the device and the battery life. However, since I have to plug it in in order to upload my rides, it usually gets charged when plugged in so my battery level almost never gets under 50-60 percent, sometimes not even so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That makes me wonder if I'm doing the right thing. About batteries, sometimes I hear that it's better to empty the battery and then fully charge it. What are your opinions about this? Do you do anything to extend your device's battery life? Or do you worry at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13764" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T00:37:00.260" Title="How to use Garmin's battery more effectively?" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;&lt;battery&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30972" CreationDate="2015-05-31T20:00:25.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is &quot;it depends&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if someone has a particular height, inseam, and other measurements and compares it to a chart the manufacturer makes, its not necessarily a good bike for them or not. They have to try the bike and see if it fits them well or not. Some people like bigger bikes for a given height, others will like smaller bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T20:00:25.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5611" CreationDate="2015-05-31T23:10:24.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to understand this: the purpose of a safety vest is to set yourself apart from an environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So logically speaking, you can buy both :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one for in &lt;strong&gt;autumn&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;yellow&lt;/strong&gt;, since most leafs are orange then and if you where&#xA;to wear the orange vest, you wouldn't set yourself apart from your environment&#xA;but you would blend in with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one for in the &lt;strong&gt;rest of the seasons&lt;/strong&gt; : &lt;strong&gt;orange&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's more than merely looking at the changes in environment due to seasons, you should also look at multiple other factors :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the most occurring color in an area&lt;/strong&gt; : if in one city there happens to&#xA;appear&#xA;lots of yellow houses, then you shouldn't wear the yellow vest and vice versa.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the most common color associated with cyclists in an area&lt;/strong&gt; : if cyclists&#xA;tend to wear yellow safety vests more in one area, you might want to consider&#xA;doing the same, so you can be recognized as a cyclist by others (cars etc.).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the human eye's sensitivity to colors&lt;/strong&gt;, as described above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;colors which are distinguishable amongst the colorblind&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reflective inserts&lt;/strong&gt; Reflective horizontal stripes and arm cover will improve visibility, glue some of them on the back of your vest and/or on the arms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;follow the regulations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19744" LastEditorUserId="41426" LastEditDate="2021-03-29T07:55:15.653" LastActivityDate="2021-03-29T07:55:15.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30984" CreationDate="2015-05-31T23:26:51.197" Score="1" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time finding an appropriate replacement chain for my bike. Its a 21 speed, Wal-mart brand mountain bike. My local bike store has chains that were up to a 10 speed. I know I need a chain tool, and to measure the new chain using the old chain, but I'm unsure what type of chain to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS I'm in the market for a new bike, as I currently commute to and from work on my bike. I've been using the cruddy Wal-mart bike because it was a gift. As for now, I want to tune it up and make sure it can survive another couple months of riding! It got rather rusted this winter when I stored it in my apartment building's basement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19745" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T00:07:33.050" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T00:09:17.883" Title="Chain Replacement" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30983" CreationDate="2015-06-01T00:09:17.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you say the bike has 21 gears, it must have 3 at the front and 7 at the back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need a 7 speed chain. Any bike shop would have one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you take your bike to a shop and ask them to fit a new chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm curious why you think you need a new chain. If it's due to rust then just oil it and ride it some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other rust will probably be superficial, and can be cleaned with a plastic pot scrubber and a greasy cloth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheap bike can give no end of trouble, but they are also an opportunity to learn basic bike maintenance skills, if you're interested. Check out posts under the [maintenance] tag (added to your post).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T00:09:17.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30979" CreationDate="2015-06-01T00:37:00.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my research, the Garmin Edge 800 uses a 1Ah lithium ion battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, these do not have a memory effect like older rechargeable batteries. But some care is still worthwhile, for example storing the battery completely charged (in a hot environment) or completely discharged is damaging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partial discharge cycles are generally seen as &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; for them. A full discharge and recharge every 30 uses is recommended by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/search?q=li+ion+battery+care&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some sites&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T00:37:00.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3266" CreationDate="2015-06-01T03:03:45.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing people forget to mention is the use of a top of the line mtn shoe on your road bike.  The advantages of mtn shoes are many, walking, not having multiple shoes , etc.  If you are using say the S Works mtn shoe on your road bike, you would be hard pressed to notice any difference in performance over the road shoe.  Most riders are not tour professionals, so you are splitting hairs over specific shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19746" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T03:03:45.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30973" CreationDate="2015-06-01T03:04:03.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Angle grinder or hydraulic/pneumatic cutter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head tube diameter and type of headset (threaded, threadless, integrated etc see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/headset-standards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/headset-standards&lt;/a&gt;) yours appears to be 1 1/8&quot; threadless. (Also since you are reusing a fork you'll need to know the head tube length and headset stack height to make sure your fork steering tube is long enough), seat post diameter, pedal spindle diameter and thread pitch most likely 9/16-20 which is standard. . (However, it's unlikely that these are the only components you can reuse)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can be dangerous because it can fail. Imagine your bike disappearing from under you but since it doesn't actually disappear you get tangled up in torn metal and you go sliding down the road together. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T03:04:03.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30989" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-01T03:08:43.053" Score="0" ViewCount="643" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a spare set of Giant SR2 wheels lying around and I was thinking about buying a Giant Escape 3 and changing the wheels over.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would there be any issue with doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19747" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T03:58:58.577" Title="Changing the wheels on a hybrid giant escape" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30989" CreationDate="2015-06-01T03:14:36.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will work fine provided you put an appropriate speed cassette on it -- they have the same hub spacing, both are 700c and both ship with Shimano compatible freehubs (so you can indeed put an appropriate cassette on both of them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T03:14:36.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30975" CreationDate="2015-06-01T03:20:52.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the nut and bolt need to be removed to adjust the angle of the stem? If not I can't see how that will ever be tight. If yes then I'd say the design still suffers from a flaw which is that tension of the bolt does not engage those teeth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that to say that here is how you test to find the area of wobble (because the problem might be a loose headset): straddle your bike with feet on the floor and pinch the intersection of two parts with one hand while you hold your front brake with the other and use your weight to rock the bike forward and backward against the tension of the brake. You'll feel the loose part move. This test is often used to test for loose headsets by squeezing the headset top nut (that big black nut on top of the headset) and the bottom of the stem where it goes through the top nut. I recommend you do this just to make sure it's not the headset. (It looks like I see grease there - was the bike serviced recently?) If you don't feel movement at the headset try pinching the stem and do the rocking. &#xA;Whatever the verdict, that stem looks like an engineering short cut and probably will never get tight. I wouldn't be surprised if you sheer that bolt like so many seat tube bolts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T03:20:52.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-01T05:04:15.030" Score="3" ViewCount="1127" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of questions related to using automotive grease on bikes. The answers seem to be split between &quot;well, at least you are greasing your bike&quot; and &quot;use the right grease for the job&quot;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/4609/19748&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; was really helpful in that it says any grease that is not too thin and not too sticky will do. The problem is I don't know how thin or how sticky the desired grease is (or where my blue automotive brake grease is compared to that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking around on Amazon and found that small (few ounces) bottles of bike grease are around $10. That seems expensive since I bought this huge (several pounds) tub of automotive brake grease for around the same price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap Craigslist junker. It creaks real bad and everything is covered in a think black paste. If I clean it all off and replace it with blue automotive brake grease, would it really be all that bad for my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19748" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T00:07:45.337" Title="Automotive brake grease" Tags="&lt;grease&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30967" CreationDate="2015-06-01T05:11:24.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not, depends how careful you are and if they are carbon rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always do a 3cm test to get the best width, then take my time and gracefully cut the width of the entire roll with a cutter. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now you have a entire roll of the correct width and you just apply what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19442" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T05:11:24.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30998" CreationDate="2015-06-01T05:11:58.283" Score="25" ViewCount="94999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought grease was a means of lubricating, but based on the reading I've been doing here it seems they are different things. So now I'm wondering, what parts should I grease and what parts should I lubricate? Additionally, what do I use to lubricate (obviously lubricant, but what specifically)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm all about buying a big container of something that I know I'm going to use a lot of. I also hate overspending on &quot;high quality&quot; if the cheap stuff works well enough (for a cheap bike). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What recommendations do you have for buying grease,  lubricant, and degreaser in bulk? What's the shelf-life like? Is there a single grease/lubricant/degreaser that will work on all the parts of my bike that need grease/lubricant/degreasing? Or will I have to buy more than one of each type? How terrible would it be if I didn't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19748" LastEditorUserId="19748" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T05:19:48.243" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T11:04:22.793" Title="What do I grease and what do I lubricate?" Tags="&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;advice&gt;&lt;grease&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30961" CreationDate="2015-06-01T05:16:57.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Same as before,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're setup changed not your personality. If you carried spares before, you will still carry spares after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case your spares will be the same between the setups. Tubeless does not make make you impervious to flats, it's benefits are more about the ride quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do many things to make your tubeless work really well and would hardly ever need your spares, but you being you may still be carrying them along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19442" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T05:16:57.787" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30969" CreationDate="2015-06-01T06:35:02.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to fix this, but I'm not completely certain why it started working. I believe the fix was a combination of three things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repulling the cable and being firm about pulling it horizontally&#xA;through the lever. I don't believe I got it deep enough into the lever before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;putting the hood back into place for extra pressure on the cable helped it engage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;making sure to start with a fair amount of cable tension before working the levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19740" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T06:35:02.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30994" CreationDate="2015-06-01T10:51:16.260" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chain lube goes on the chain. It's liquid and it drips on. We used to use &quot;oil&quot; for this but now there are lubes that a better engineered to provide lubrication without collecting dirt, washing off in the rain, breaking down chemically, etc. You also use this kind of liquid lube on brake pivots, derailleur pulleys and pivots. Probably not the same stuff you use on a chain although some products can serve both purposes. There's really not much more most cyclists need to do other than keep things clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average consumer of bikes does not need grease. Grease goes on unsealed (loose ball) bearings - wheels, headsets, bottom brackets typically. However a lot of these bearings are are sealed now so you can't service them you just replace them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anti-seize compound is last. Like grease most consumers won't use this. Also, grease is often used in place of anti seize. This stuff goes on threads. Headsets, bottom brackets, pedals, and basically any little screw or bolt. It can also go on the seat post but you can also use grease for that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T10:51:16.260" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31001" CreationDate="2015-06-01T14:04:43.743" Score="1" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano 5700 front derailleur and 5700 flat bar shifter (left) but for some reason I can't use the FD on my frame (too narrow, my driven train is 9 speed). After lot of research some people suggest using Shimano 2400 FD (8 speed). I am going to try but my question is can I still use the 5700 flat bar shifter (left), which is for 10 speed driven train?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17275" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T16:59:02.323" Title="mix left shifter and font derailleur of different speed" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3266" CreationDate="2015-06-01T14:18:58.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/KFvq4PScofM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Float, which is the degree to which one can rotate one's feet while clipped in&lt;/a&gt;, can sometimes be an issue. In other words, all clipless pedal systems-- so-called because they replace the toe clips with cleats of some kind-- restrict the amount that you can rotate your feet while clipped in (&lt;em&gt;i.e&lt;/em&gt;., while the cleat is connected to the pedal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was the primary reason I switched from SPDs to Speedplays. Initially I rode using SPDs, but as the other respondents mentioned, I was getting hot foot on longer rides, and eventually some knee pain, which turned out to be caused by an SPD cleat that was slightly mis-aligned. That was the impetus, because with Speedplays it's not an issue at all. It seemed like a win-win to me: more float, and minimal alignment issues (provided the cleat is correctly positioned on one's shoe). But I am not a commuter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the amount of nominal float one can obtain from various pedal systems, in no particular order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.fit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Speedplay: up to 15 degrees&lt;/a&gt; (scroll down to see an image);&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Shimano SPD, SPD-SL, up to 6 degrees;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Look Keo, up to 9 degrees;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And so forth. Clearly there are many factors that go into the choice of pedal/shoe connection, and happily there are more than a few systems one can choose from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T14:18:58.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30999" CreationDate="2015-06-01T14:51:35.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will work OK while you should not mix 2 &amp;amp; 3 speed (MTB and road) front gears. 8 speed chain is a little wider than 9 speed and the FD will be a little wider but it's not much wider and will move your chain pretty nice. It's not affecting the shifter cable pull and FD move.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The problem in mixing 8 &amp;amp; 9 gears is in rear shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T16:00:56.467" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T16:00:56.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-01T15:07:15.093" Score="0" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Description:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;A brief painful, hot sensation, and swelling in hips. I can refer this as &quot;overheat&quot; as it will disappear if I rest my leg for few seconds, or very slow pedaling. When it disappear, it means gone, entirely, no pain at all. I can tell my hips are swelling as my pants feels tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;During intense movement such as fast or heavy pedaling. The &quot;heat&quot; accumulates and keep heating up and more painful if I don't rest my legs or slowing down the cadence. At peak point (which is VERY painful), I can barely move my legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Current condition:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;height 166.5cm, weight: 105kg, maybe this pain related to obesity but most of the symptoms only appear while cycling, rarely on any other daily activities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very uncomfortable as I need to rest my leg for 5-10 seconds every now and then to let it &quot;cool&quot; down. Is this caused by obesity, or improper seating/pedal position ? I tried increasing/decreasing the height of my sadle without any effect. Can anyone describe what is this and is this common among cyclist ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19755" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T20:38:33.667" Title="brief pain and swelling in hips during intense movement" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-06-01T20:51:26.860" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-01T15:37:15.157" Score="-6" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I previously read a post about weight loss and cycling, where the response was a link to another forum with lots of before and after pictures. Does anyone know that link? I did run a search before asking this here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19419" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T20:30:55.060" Title="Riding and weight loss" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-06-01T20:54:12.747" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30994" CreationDate="2015-06-01T18:10:46.793" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/30998/19106&quot;&gt;James Keuning's answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I think about lube and grease is that basically, grease is for things that don't get taken apart as much, and lube is for parts that get more care, more often, and are usually more easily accessible.  This absolutely does not mean that bikes do not need grease or that it isn't as important as 'lube'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use lube on my chain, derailleurs, pivots, etc.  This is usually done once a week depending on the weather (Chicago) when I clean and lube my drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use grease on the other parts that are usually only seen during a serious teardown, i.e. bottom bracket bearings, head tube bearings, wheel bearings, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One place grease is of particular importance is in your shifters.  Once or twice a season I like to remove the hoods from my shifters, blast everything out with degreaser, and then use a small brush to apply some heavy grease to the mechanical components.  Places where I use grease more often are on my pedals and on my seat post.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a jar or quality grease and a bottle of quality chain lube, you should be set for pretty much everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T18:10:46.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31003" CreationDate="2015-06-01T20:30:55.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contrary to popular belief, cycling is not a &quot;magic bullet&quot; for weight loss.  I know some hefty cyclists that ride much more than the average person (I am one of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking in very broad terms, weight loss comes primarily from adjusting one's diet more-so than activity levels.  Increasing activity simply helps the progress that you are making with your diet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is ENTIRELY possible to out-eat any gains you get from exercise.  Trust me, I know from first-hand experience :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17316" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T20:30:55.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31002" CreationDate="2015-06-01T20:38:33.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm with Batman in that you should contact a medical professional. This sounds way too serious to trust to what some random people on the internet say. However, if cost is an issue there I can make some suggestions about some things you can do to prevent some common bike-related injuries in the future (after you see a professional or did something else to get rid of it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did I already say you should really see a professional? This isn't normal at all, and really sounds like something you should have checked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get your bike set-up properly. Go to a local bike shop to some help, or google around for something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/beginners/gear/article/how-to-get-your-road-bike-position-right-39738/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. Note that it is very much possible that your bike is too small or too large for you, in which case there is nothing to do but get a bike better suited to your size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fast or heavy pedaling? You should use your gears! Optimal pedaling frequency is around 80-100 rotations/min. Lower than 60 puts a serious strain on your joints. If you can actually produce useful force above 140 I applaud you but that speed is also inefficient and strenuous. Try to change gears more often, if you need to go lower or higher than you can regularly then get lighter and/or heavier gears.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you recently increase the amount of cycling you do? Though mostly a low-impact sport cycling can still cause injuries, and you should increase your workload slowly over several weeks or months depending on your age.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seriously, go see a professional.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T20:38:33.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31008" CreationDate="2015-06-01T20:40:27.657" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;1.) This is a 1989 Cannondale SM2000, is that a good derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) Will these dropouts suffice for a coaster brake? What if I over-shorten the chain? Do-able?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pZjHM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nDVXB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HFvt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19743" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T20:49:23.350" Title="Dropout check/Components check Help a boy live his coaster dream!" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31007" CreationDate="2015-06-01T20:49:23.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A derailleur (or pulley-type chain tensioner) can't be used with coaster brakes. You also have vertical dropouts, so if you want to run something without a derailleur, you need an eccentric hub (which I don't think exists with a coaster brake -- the only one I'm aware of is the White Industries Eno) or eccentric bottom bracket (Phil Wood makes some). You can't just shorten the chain. You'll also need a new wheel on top of that (or at least a new hub) so that you can have a coaster brake. All in all, putting a coaster brake on a bike like this is not a good idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the bike being any good as is, that's in the eye of the beholder; it looks like it was a decent bike when it came out, so assuming everything is in working order it'd make a great commuter, for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want a coaster brake, sell the bike and get a frame with horizontal dropouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T20:49:23.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31011" CreationDate="2015-06-01T20:57:48.123" Score="0" ViewCount="2957" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do bike shops have specs guides or manuals to know which (eg: integrated headset bearings) parts to use on which bikes? And where do they source said parts (other than from the bike mfr)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And most importantly: where can the average Joe like myself get this info and buy parts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike I'm currently working on is a 2011 Scott SUB 30, but I can't seem to find any information about specific componentry online. If I were to take it into my LBS I'm sure they'd have no trouble figuring out where to buy, eg, the correct drailleur hanger or headset bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I do the same? &lt;strong&gt;Important note: I live in Canada, so would prefer not to pay large import taxes from international sources if possible&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5372" LastEditorUserId="5372" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T13:13:09.857" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T13:13:09.857" Title="How do I determine parts for my bike and where to source them (new)?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3266" CreationDate="2015-06-01T21:07:19.323" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A lot of riders appear to prefer SPD's, &lt;strong&gt;which is a great&lt;/strong&gt;, and can work well (as indicated by the answers here).  For interest sake here are some arguments for &quot;road pedals&quot; which are typically the three bolt variety.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pros - Road Pedals (SPD-SL and others)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road bike specific pedals (e.g., Shimano SPD-SL) are designed for a single purpose, road cycling, and the pedals do this job well.  Road cycling has a lot of repetitive motions (you often sit in the same position for a long period of time) so fit can be key to reducing repetitive stress injuries.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get into long rides, high mileage or fast and hard rides you will notice the difference over SPD type pedals.  Some of these differences include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smoother Pedal Float&lt;/strong&gt; - Pedal float is the ability to allow the shoe to swivel (and shift laterally in some systems) slightly during the pedal stroke.  This can be important to reducing certain types of injury (and optimizing alignment) as your foot can shift slightly in the pedal stroke.  Mountain bike pedals use the shoe tread as the contact point, while road pedals use a specialized cleat as the contact point.  As such, road specific pedals can choose materials and control the contact patch better allowing a much smoother float (and often more float) than mountain bike systems.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note - Some claim that float reduced power, but there is no real evidence for this idea. See the myth section in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.ca/Bike-Fit-Phil-Burt/dp/1408190303&quot;&gt;Phil Burt's Bike Fit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wider Contact Area&lt;/strong&gt; - Because they do not require the same ability to shed mud and dirt, or have a recessed cleat for walkability, road pedals have a large interface surface with the cleat.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduced Hot spots&lt;/strong&gt; - The wide contact area distributes pedal force over a larger proportion of the shoe, which in turn better supports the foot.  Assuming your shoe fits properly, this will result in reduced likelihood of hot spots.  Hot spots can occur over long periods of riding, where a pressure point exists under a small potion of your foot which causes discomfort.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Better force transfer&lt;/strong&gt; - The wider contact area allows for a more efficient transfer of force as there will be less flexing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Easier Cleat Adjustment&lt;/strong&gt; - Because of the larger contact surface, there is more friction between the shoe and cleat and the cleat can be held in place via frictional forces only without requiring the cleat to bite into the shoe as with SPDs.  The result is that the bottom of the shoe is not damaged by a road cleat, making fine cleat adjustments easier.  With SPD the bottom of the shoe often gets &quot;bite marks&quot; from the cleat making small cleat positional changes hard as the cleat has a tendency to migrate back to the original bit position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lower Profile&lt;/strong&gt; - Because the tread block is not required the road shoes can often be placed closer to the pedal axel.  This can allow less rocking (more efficient power transfer) and allow for more clearance (aka harder cornering)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lower Weight/Lower Rotating mass&lt;/strong&gt;  If you care about such things (many do) the road pedal/shoe combo is typically lighter.  This can provide minor performance gains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cons&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lousy to walk in&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This can cause accidents&lt;/strong&gt; - After using road shoes for nearly 20 years I finally had my first accident, which hand me sliding across the kitchen floor (while avoiding small children) and crashing into the stove, where as luck would have it my hand landed on a red hot stove element! I still went for a ride though...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No hike a bike&lt;/strong&gt; - Suppose you use up all your tubes (@CareyGregory), your frame is cracked and can't be welded because you are out riding across some African plain and there are no good TIG welders around, you are running out of water and you still have 10 miles to go. Well now add your shoes to your list of problems because you are not walking in them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They sound funny&lt;/strong&gt; - Depending if you look hot or like a stuffed sausage when you stop in for your pre-ride caffeine binge, the ensuing clickety-clack caused by road shoes may cause you horrendous humiliation!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T21:07:19.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31009" CreationDate="2015-06-01T21:56:25.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should look your bike up online, you should be able to find a stats page that will give you some general specs.  The shops I have been in do not have a &quot;manual&quot; per se of what frames conform to which standards.  It's generally done through experience and visual confirmation/measurement of the bike in front of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailleur hangers are generally purchased from the manufacturer, but there are some aftermarket ones that will fit specific models of bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike shops buy parts from a wholesaler (like QBP or J&amp;amp;B).  Most wholesalers won't deal with an individual unless you have a storefront (business) and $X amount of insurance.  You can find businesses online (Colorado Cyclist, Bike Nashbar, Performance Bike) that sell parts online, but realistically you are probably better off buying from your LBS and developing a relationship with them.  Oftentimes, the prices at your LBS will be similar to online without the shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailleur hangers are one of the few things that are manufacturer specific.  Most other parts conform to some standard and your average mechanic or shop rat will be able to look at your bike and determine what type you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T21:56:25.553" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29171" CreationDate="2015-06-01T22:51:58.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The LED itself is pretty deep so I wouldn't worry about the functionality of the light of you banged the lens. The lens could break if you hit it. I haven't hit mine so I can't comment on the durability - in general my S3 is a tank. Having the light in the tube certainly protects it from all angles other than head on though.&#xA;I do have one complaint about the light - when I am rolling faster than 15ish mph on a dark bike path at 5am on my way to work I wish the light were focused a little higher as my eyes want to look about 10 feet beyond the usable arc of light - I'm hoping to be able to just swap out the LED in the future for a brighter version that still works with the dynamo as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19760" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T22:51:58.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-02T00:22:27.677" Score="6" ViewCount="2294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently upgraded my wife’s bike with a Shimano XT triple crankset. The number of teeth is 44.32.22t. However, the middle chainring on the recent XT crankset is carbon-reinforced, and I’d prefer not to trust in carbon for our primary cycling activity, which is long-haul touring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From an earlier bike build, I happen to have a never-used Shimano middle chainring lying around, made purely from metal, but this one has 36 teeth. Is it possible to replace the 32-tooth ring with a 36-tooth one, keeping the crankset's other teeth (44 and 22) the same? Or do triple cranksets require some kind of precise ratio between the number of teeth on the three rings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19761" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T00:47:58.087" Title="Can I replace a middle chain ring with one with different number of teeth?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31013" CreationDate="2015-06-02T00:34:31.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the bolt patterns match:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will work, as long as your new 36T ring has the right kind of pins and ramps to assist shifting the chain.  However, the shape and pattern of those pins and ramps is quite mysterious, and it's not guaranteed that you'll get good shifting performance from the 22T ring to the 36T ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that both the crankset and the 36T ring are Shimano probably helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you already have all the parts on hand, it's very easy to try it out. If for some reason the 14T difference prevents shifting, you'll find out within the first minute of your test ride.  If it works at that point, it will continue to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other thing I can think of that might cause a problem is releasing the chain from the middle ring when you shift to the big ring.  I've seen some chainrings that had 2 teeth that were shorter than the others, to help release the chain at the right point, relative to the location of the ramps and pins on the larger ring.  But that was on a SRAM 2x10 chainset, so you probably don't have this problem.&#xA;If you do have those 2 shorter teeth, then the alignment between the chainrings is important.  If you install the 36T ring and it doesn't shift right, try removing it, rotating it 90 degrees, and reinstalling it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T00:42:40.577" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T00:42:40.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31013" CreationDate="2015-06-02T00:37:15.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your front derailleur is designed for a specific number of chainrings (double or triple) and specific chainring size gaps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the data sheet for your front derailleur (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_6S80A/SI-6S80A-003-ENG_v1_m56577569830729252.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; for example), you will see an entry that says &quot;maximum tooth difference&quot;, which is big ring - small ring. You will also see &quot;min. difference between top and intermediate&quot;, which is big ring - middle ring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try it out on your own, even if its out of the spec sheet and see if it works (provided the chainring fits on the crankset, i.e. the bolt pattern matches)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T00:47:58.087" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T00:47:58.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31009" CreationDate="2015-06-02T01:59:23.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to be snarky, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2011+Scott+SUB+30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a quick search&lt;/a&gt; turned up a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2011&amp;amp;brand=Scott&amp;amp;model=Sub+30+Men&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list of components on the bike&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another quick search turned up &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scott-sports.com/global/en/support/archive/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Scott product archive&lt;/a&gt; (admittedly, not particularly helpful, at least from what I saw), and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scott-sports.com/global/en/support/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scott Sports FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, which, in response to the question &quot;Can I get spare parts from SCOTT?&quot; replies: &quot;Yes, SCOTT offers a broad range of spare parts. Please contact your local &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scott-sports.com/dealers/locator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SCOTT dealer&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scott-sports.com/company/distributors/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;national distributor&lt;/a&gt; in case your dealer is unable to help.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T01:59:23.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31041" CreationDate="2015-06-02T02:04:28.217" Score="4" ViewCount="431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just read an &lt;a href=&quot;http://3dprint.com/69151/bradley-wiggins-hour-record/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; about how Sir Bradley Wiggins is going to try to break the 1 hour distance record soon. In it they mention&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One of the unique new features is a set of 3D printed titanium&#xA;  handlebars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is that possible? I thought you can only 3D print plastics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19763" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T07:41:14.620" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T12:37:25.717" Title="How is Sir Bradley Wiggins 3D printing his titanium handlebars?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31021" CreationDate="2015-06-02T02:44:37.897" Score="2" ViewCount="1762" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would v-brakes with the normal v-brake long pads (as opposed to shorter brake pads) on road rims exhibit any problematic behavior going downhill at speeds of 50 mph?  I am concerned that the longer brake pad may be more susceptible to shudder and/or grabbiness than shorter pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike in question is a Surly Cross Check which is set up with brake posts for cantilever or v-brake.  Caliper is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes I have ready to put on are Deore XT br-t780 (with long brake pads) , front and back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other v-brakes with shorter pads are available, e.g., Shimano BR-M422.  (But these M422 are much lower quality than the T780 - and the question is about long vs short pads, not quality of the brakes they come with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable travel in the lever is not an issue as I have the problem solver travel device ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T05:58:50.753" Title="Short vs Long brake pads (with v-brakes) on road bike rims at high speed" Tags="&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31019" CreationDate="2015-06-02T05:58:50.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should not have a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact it should be easier to set the toe as well as the alignment. Assuming the block widths are about the same, you should see better stopping power as well as cooling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I go long, esp. cause I'm +90kg and enjoy speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shudder and &quot;grabbiness&quot; are typical toe issues. If you follow the pad instructions or any of the hundreds of guides available online, you'll get real good at setting the toe and get the most out of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the most common issue I fix for friends who's &quot;bikes don't work&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19442" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T05:58:50.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30959" CreationDate="2015-06-02T12:29:26.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Myabe have a very careful look at your cable route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lX721.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That little pin can make the pull action go around the pivot on the wrong side, actuating the mech against the stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d6sK5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19442" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T12:29:26.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31018" CreationDate="2015-06-02T13:17:50.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is how. An engineer explains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/tkwd2YXNy9I?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it's a layering process. Layer by layer, the 3D printer lays down a thin sheet of powdered titanium and a laser melts and fuses that titanium where the part needs to be. It starts at the bottom and works up. When it's all done, you simply remove the unfused titanium and voila, a new part emerges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17316" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T12:37:25.717" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T12:37:25.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31026" CreationDate="2015-06-02T13:23:03.190" Score="1" ViewCount="2821" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time taking the cranks off. The bolts, chinrings and drive side came out easy. Left is stuck. Should I open, pull or do something particular for it to come out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pQVD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T21:44:43.847" Title="One crank arm won't come off" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31025" CreationDate="2015-06-02T13:28:08.820" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must use a Crank Arm Puller tool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001VS1M20&quot;&gt;Park Tools Crank Arm Puller&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how to use it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BORfbbeo3gk&quot;&gt;Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17316" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T13:28:08.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30992" CreationDate="2015-06-02T14:16:39.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dedicated grease with optimized properties for the application/operation temperature is always best. Automotive brake grease, while not ideal, won't cause any damage to your bicycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally one uses MUCH less grease on a bicycle compared to on a car, therefore the cost of grease is negligible compared to other consumables for private repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14229" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T14:16:39.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:25:51.753" Score="4" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a two-part question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been watching various videos and getting various advice about mountain bike cornering. My impression is that all of the advice cannot be true, because the advice, taken together, seems self-contradictory. Also, some logic out there seems rather disconnected from the physics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few years ago, I read this book on race car driving: &quot;Going Faster! Mastering the Art of Race Driving&quot;. It is the best physics-based explanation of car handling I've seen. Based on the laws of physics, each tire has a maximum amount of traction for a given amount of downward force per tire. I want to point out two things that result from this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you need more traction, you can: (a) get stickier tires, (b) increase contact patch, (c) increase downward force (i.e. the 'normal' vector, perpendicular to the surface).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For a given amount of friction, it may be used for some combination of acceleration (forward), braking (backward), or cornering (sideways). By combination, I mean the sum of the force vectors. So, the more friction you use in acceleration or braking, the less you have available for cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless I hear a better explanation, I think the above explanation above serves as a useful fundamental grounding of tire traction, whether it be on-road or off-road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question, part 1: Is my summary of the physics detailed enough to be useful without overlooking any key aspects? Are there problems in borrowing the logic of automotive tire grip and applying it to mountain biking? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one way to apply this knowledge. As an example, I heard something like this from a video about mountain bike handling (sorry, I lost the link):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;pedaling out of a corner gives more traction at the rear wheel&quot; (paraphrased) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems bogus to me. If you pedal, you are asking the rear tire to use grip for acceleration, meaning less is available for cornering. Question, part 2: Is my logic correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4552" LastEditorUserId="4552" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T13:30:20.807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T13:51:36.973" Title="Fundamental principles of tire friction for off-road biking" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;handling&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31028" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:52:06.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adressing your second question where you give the example &quot;pedaling out a corner gives more traction at the rear wheel&quot; and you state that this should reduce traction available for cornering - have you considered that the act of pedaling generally shifts the rider's weight back while also increasing the normal force through putting pressure on the pedals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why suspension designers work so much to reduce 'pedal bob' on full suspension bikes due to compression under pedal load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The increased downward force from pedalling and the shifting of a rider's weight may provide more rear wheel traction than is lost from acceleration - thereby aiding cornering ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adressing your first question regarding your understanding/aplicability of the physical principles of road cornering to mountain biking - The physics of how the wheel and tire system behaves may not be terribly different between a car and a bike, but you have to consider that overall the bike system is dominated by rider weight (I weigh ~6 times more than my MTB) so the dynamic repositioning of rider weight has a huge effect on traction. Much moreso than a car where the driver is porpotionately smaller part of the system's weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, there are a few more variables to consider when understanding MTB cornering, and it mostly boils down to rider position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18416" LastEditorUserId="18416" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T16:00:55.213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T16:00:55.213" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32343" CreationDate="2015-06-02T19:10:03.413" Score="5" ViewCount="3827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/archive/2007/tarmac/tarmacprodouble#specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2007 Specialized Tarmac Pro Double&lt;/a&gt; and I need some better gearing. I am doing more hill climbs and I feel that I need at least two lower gears than I already have. What would be the most efficient way to upgrade my bike. Would it be easy to get a triple chainring? Will I have to get a new derailleur? What else would I need to change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14679" LastEditorUserId="14679" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T23:29:34.567" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T14:27:15.250" Title="What is the easiest to upgrade my chainrings from a double to a triple?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31030" CreationDate="2015-06-02T19:25:28.060" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a couple different options. I think the cheapest would be to switch to a compact crankset which would change the front chainrings from 52-39 to 50-34.  I'm pretty sure you could do this while still using the same shifter. Changing the front shifter is required if you want to go from a double to a triple, as is changing the front derailleur.  If you switch to a compact I'm pretty sure you can keep the same derailleur and shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you'll want to look out for is the rear derailleur.  You currently have a short cage derailleur, and you may need a medium or long cage derailleur when you go with a compact crankset.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think a triple should really be necessary on a 10 speed system.  I have triple, but I have an 8 speed cassette. I find in that case the triple is nice because you can still get lots of gear range while still keeping the gears close together, However, on a 10 or 11 speed cassette, this isn't really necessary.  I think that switch to a compact crankset is a much better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/7265/163&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt;, the maximum cog size of a short cage Shimano short cage is 27 and the total drivetrain capacity is 29.  To use a larger cassette, you would have to switch out the rear derailleur. If you used a compact crankset, you should be probably also replace your rear derailler for a medium cage, as your total capacity would be (50-34) + (27-12) = 31.  However, if you changed the cassette to a 12-25, you could get away with not replacing the rear derailleur and still getting a little bit lower gearing, although possibly not enough for your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T19:38:35.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31030" CreationDate="2015-06-02T19:28:34.607" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need to swap out your left (front) shifter and front derailleur to utilize all three chainrings of a triple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between the cost of that and the cranks, I think a better option would be to swap out your rear cassette for something with more range. Since you've already got a 12-27 on there, a 12-32 would give you I believe the range you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hunch is that you'd be able to fudge it with your current short cage rear derailleur, but a medium cage mechanism will probably be less hassle in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since cassettes are consumables and need to be replaced periodically, this cost of the just rear mechanism is likely significantly less than the shifter, front mechanism, and the crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T19:28:34.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31030" CreationDate="2015-06-02T20:34:44.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't get a triple crankset, there's a reason why those are dying off of the market. Consider instead changing your cassette and maybe your rings, if you're climbing a lot of steep hills and want a lower gear ratio, then what I would suggest trying first is swapping out your cassette with a mountain bike cassette, this may require you to also change your rear derailleur to a long arm derailleur, and you'll need a new chain, but you should change that whenever you change your cassette anyways. If you need a little bit more, then try swapping your small ring with something smaller. You'll save money this way too, because you won't have to change out your crank or your shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T23:59:48.280" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T23:59:48.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25679" CreationDate="2015-06-02T20:40:21.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is &lt;strong&gt;NOBODY&lt;/strong&gt;. Jones is the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; manufacturer of the closed loop H-bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After nearly a year of searching for a cheaper alternative I finally just bit the bullet and ordered the bar from Jones. It would have been better if I had ordered it sooner instead of holding out in hopes of finding an alternative manufacturer, I really got dinged by exchange rates for waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T20:40:21.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31028" CreationDate="2015-06-02T21:39:39.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So let me get this straight before it becomes a mess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;..increased downward force from pedalling..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you pedal the downward force is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; increased - you are not getting any heavier. You can only increase the downward force on a rear wheel by &lt;strong&gt;shifting your body&lt;/strong&gt; back - this will decrease the downward force on front wheel though, which is good for steering actually. Controlling your body position is easier and more precise when not pedalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cars actually act differently while cornering than bikes - bikes lean into the corner. But for the tires and traction that part is the same and you are right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iTYnQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maximum cornering angle is proportional to the coefficient of friction of the tires to the gravel/road/whatever (this is only affected by the tire tread and tire compound). The faster you want to go in corner the more you need to lean-in with you center of gravity. So if you manage to throw your body off seat closer to the ground the tires won't have to lean that much - see the picture - giving you a better cornering grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &lt;strong&gt;the correct way is&lt;/strong&gt;: Pedal before the corner to get your speed, then off the seat and control the centre of gravity for maximum cornering grip (you are not able to pedal now), &lt;strong&gt;keep weight on both wheels equally&lt;/strong&gt; for steering, focus on hitting the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Racing_line&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;corner apex&lt;/a&gt; (this is actually the most important part), then pedal again off the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With bikes and cornering also the width of the rim plays a role. If running lower pressure to get more grip (bigger contact surface for the treads to bite into ground) with narrower rims you can get a tire blowout (when tubeless) or lose balance as the tire sidewalls have less support. Wider rims provide better support for cornering (but wider are also heavier giving less acceleration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL:DR: your logic is correct, tire tread veeery important, pedaling is BS, use your body weight to your advantage, lower pressure, wider rims.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19624" LastEditorUserId="19624" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T07:23:56.153" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T07:23:56.153" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31025" CreationDate="2015-06-02T21:44:43.847" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the answer provided by CQH, You could also get the crank off by putting the other crank back on (not very tightly), removing the bolt from the stuck crank, and riding a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crank should fall off after a little while, especially if you do bunnyhops and other things that put a lot of torque on the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not work with your octalink setup. I've only done it with square tapers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a hack, and I wouldn't do it if you've got expensive cranks, but it's a good option if you don't have a crank puller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T21:44:43.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31030" CreationDate="2015-06-02T22:55:15.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say two lower gears, you presumably have 25 and 27 as the largest gears in your cassette.  Does that mean 39/31 would be low enough?  If so, the compact with a 34 will get you there, but 34/25 will be too high. Shimano makes a 12/30 10speed cassette in the CS4600 line, which I have coupled to a 50/34 compact.  You will be in for a new rear derailleur that way.  They also make a 11/32 11speed, but that needs new shifter as well.  This might avoid the crankset change, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastEditorUserId="10998" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T14:27:15.250" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T14:27:15.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30992" CreationDate="2015-06-03T00:07:45.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no problem in going for automotive grease in bearing (hubs, bottom bracket and headset). This is not the perfect lubricant, but you have a cheap bike, probably don't want to spend the $10 in grease, and truth is that a clean bottom bracket with a thick grease is better than what you currently have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, these parts are not exposed so you really only need the grease to keep the bearings rolling smoothly and to protect them from some water that might infiltrate. It might be too thick and probably these parts will feel a bit tight, but it's minimum, you won't notice it, and this will not affect bearings life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other parts of the bike, grease is not a good idea for the reasons you stated: it's super thick, and the disadvantage here is that a thick grease, or oil, catches a lot of debris and dust. So if you grease your chain and go for a bike, you will see it is covered by a lawyer of dust because your grease worked as a glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the chain, and for the the levers, calipers, derailleur, etc I think buying something more specific is better, and you can get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/768385/pedros-go-chain-lube-4-oz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;something&lt;/a&gt; for $5 that will last for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this stated, I usually use bike-specific lubes. For example, at rei you can get some bike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/785409/pedros-bio-grease-bike-lubricant-3-oz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;grease&lt;/a&gt; for $5. It's really up to you, and it is much more expensive than the one you have, but it's only $5 and will last for a few services on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T00:07:45.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31018" CreationDate="2015-06-03T05:29:44.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is exactly the case where Wikipedia comes in handy, here are some quotes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Direct_metal_laser_sintering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the article&lt;/a&gt; on 3D printing with metals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Direct metal laser sintering (DMLS) is an additive manufacturing&#xA;  technique that uses a laser as the power source to sinter powdered&#xA;  material (typically metal), aiming the laser automatically at points&#xA;  in space defined by a 3D model, binding the material together to&#xA;  create a solid structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The DMLS process involves use of a 3D CAD model whereby a .stl file is&#xA;  created and sent to the machine’s software. A technician works with&#xA;  this 3D model to properly orient the geometry for part building and&#xA;  adds supports structure as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Currently available alloys used in the process include 17-4 and 15-5&#xA;  stainless steel, maraging steel, cobalt chromium, inconel 625 and 718,&#xA;  and titanium Ti6Al4V.[13] Theoretically, almost any alloy metal can be&#xA;  used in this process once fully developed and validated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T05:29:44.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="240" CreationDate="2015-06-03T07:16:42.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The confusion comes from the word &quot;clip&quot; being both a noun and a verb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clip as a noun: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to hold in a tight grip :  clutch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to clasp, fasten, or secure with a clip   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This describes the old-school pedals with the leather (or vinyl) straps that strap the foot down to the pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Clip-less&quot; pedals do not have the aforementioned securing strap.  They (obviously) use a different system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using &quot;Clip&quot; as a verb to refer to securing something (and not cutting something) is called &quot;conversion&quot; (linguistic term) or &quot;verbing&quot; (non offial term).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, saying &quot;&lt;em&gt;Clip&lt;/em&gt; into your pedals.&quot; is similar to saying &quot;I'm &lt;em&gt;tabling&lt;/em&gt; this discussion.&quot;  It's taking a noun and converting it into a verb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we cyclists confused ourselves :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17316" LastEditorUserId="17316" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T07:21:44.103" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T07:21:44.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T08:55:02.640" Score="4" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I can find the right bottom bracket axle (or spindle, whatever it's called) with knowing my crank model (Gipiemme Dual Sprint, Velobase says BB should be 113mm) and rear chainline (I think 47mm, I can measure exactly with caliper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know I have to use Campagnolo BB's with Gipiemme cranks and I can only order them online from where I live. I don't want to have to send back, order another and on and on ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19783" LastEditorUserId="19783" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T10:18:00.713" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T00:13:29.253" Title="Bottom bracket length without knowing front chainline (fixed gear)" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31044" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T09:15:25.997" Score="3" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drive cheap Shimano cassettes together with Campagnolo Record C9 chains. Yesterday I installed a new C9 and a CS-HG200-9. But the chain sort of slips over the sprockets, not unlike really worn parts, but exactly once per revolution and under all loads. Has anyone else experience with this particular setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Campagnolo chain is not incompatible with Shimano 9 speed cassettes in general: I've gone through a couple of these, and had overall good experience. I cannot remember when I changed to the last pair, but it's been more than one year - that means at least 11000 km, much of it commuting under all weather conditions with lots of acceleration and partially steep, fast ascension + some tours over some of the Swiss alps passes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T13:57:02.943" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T13:57:02.943" Title="Campagnolo Record C9 / Shimano CS-HG200-9 incompatibility" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;&lt;groupsets&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31030" CreationDate="2015-06-03T09:23:35.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I made this change 15 years ago, as well as the new triple chain rings I needed to change the bottom bracket - cotterless square taper type - (which needed to be longer to correct the chain line), front derallieur (needs to be able to cope with extra travel and larger difference in chainring sizes) and rear derallieur (needs to be able to cope with larger total difference in teeth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need to change your shifter to use the new range on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4447" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T09:23:35.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30994" CreationDate="2015-06-03T09:47:19.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One major function of grease on bikes is waterproofing, e.g. for bearings.  Since the bearings on a bike typically move slowly (no more than a few hundred rpm for hub bearings and significantly slower for everything else) you should pack them with quite a bit of grease to provide the best protection from ingress of water and dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also a good idea to apply grease to threads that will bear a lot of torque – it prevents seizing, and can save you a lot of grief when you need to undo it years later.  Examples are the pedal threads and bottom bracket threads, both of which must be highly torqued but are very exposed to water and dirt kicked up by the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="452" LastEditorUserId="452" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T07:45:39.210" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T07:45:39.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31065" CreationDate="2015-06-03T10:50:09.110" Score="1" ViewCount="1557" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got a pair of Ksyrium Equipe with a second hand Sworks Tarmac. Thinking of putting them on my Ridley for some Cyclocross action. Has any one used these wheels for this purpose before? I have use Mavic wheels in the past and find they have a tendency to buckle or break spokes quite easily. Will I just be destroying a set of decent wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18963" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T18:21:45.893" Title="Ksyrium Equipe wheels any good for Cyclocross?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T11:11:27.940" Score="1" ViewCount="5776" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought an early 80s steel framed bike with unindexed stem mounted shifters. As I plan to use the bike for commuting, I'd like to change the rear mech to use trigger shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not so bothered about converting the front mech at the moment, although I assume it's a similar (if not easier?) process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear dérailleur is a Shimano Tourney (couldn't see a date - it's not new though) and there are 5x2 gears. The gear spacing is definitely less than 10mm although I've only tried to measure it with a ruler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read lots of guides about doing this conversion, but I'm a little confused about what I actually need to do in my case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the rear dérailleur is fine and doesn't need replacing. And I think that all I need is some trigger shifters, but I'm worried about the indexing and spacing. I've read that faster triggers are less likely to suit the spacing, but I don't know why? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I on the right lines? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19786" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T01:56:59.927" Title="Converting 80s bike to indexed shifters" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T11:58:59.547" Score="2" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;General question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear tire of my mtb runs too close to the chainstays. If the trail is even remotely muddy, the mud buildup on the chainstay clogs the front derailleur and the chain begins to skip/drop. &lt;em&gt;What can I do to remedy the situation, preferrabli without going to skinnier tires.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details on the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a custom build of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbr.com/cat/tires-and-wheels/tire/bontrager/xr4-expert/prd_491833_151crx.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bontager XR4&lt;/a&gt; 2.35 tires on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mach1.fr/composants/pages/jante.aspx?id=48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mach1 MAD&lt;/a&gt; 25C rims, mounted on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dartmoor-bikes.com/hardware/frames/hornet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dartmoor Hornet&lt;/a&gt; frame. The problem is that the seat stays are WIDER than the chain stays. Consequently, any accumulated mud instead of getting scraped off harmlessly by the seat stays and falling to the side, gets trapped onto the chainstays and into the front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;PS: Please refrain from comments on not riding muddy trails - I know I would errode them! My riding is XC marathon type, with a few muddy sections around a lake and some streams.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T12:14:01.193" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T17:54:04.560" Title="Mud buildup at the chinstay near FD" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;mud&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31048" CreationDate="2015-06-03T12:17:57.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stick with the friction shifters. Changing a non indexed bike to index is expensive and unnecessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a new dérailleur to index correctly along with a rear wheel that can mount a cassette (assuming your running a freewheel). You will also need new shifters which if your running a road bike are very expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must have index shifting I would recommend a late 90's bike with index shifting already installed. They are generally very cheap second hand and don't require a complete overhaul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old 80s Apollo road bike that I use for wet weather commuting. I was thinking of doing the same thing and upgrading to indexed shifting. I installed new wheels (Mavic Aksiums) and added a seven speed cassette to the rear hub. I stopped there because the bike ran brilliantly. The new wheels are much lighter than vintage wheels and the hubs are much smoother. A worth while upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will get used to using friction shifters very quickly. I actually quite like them now even for commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18963" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T12:17:57.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31049" CreationDate="2015-06-03T12:27:37.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about a DIY route by making a tire scraper mounted to the seat stays?  Use a old milk jug or some other sturdy plastic cut to fill the space between the seat stays.  Put a notch (with some gap obviously) in it to slide down around the tire.  Zip tie it in place and go.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The milk jug plastic probably won't hold up by itself (but maybe layers or a zip tie running between the stays for a brace), but it is a starting point (or a good template).  Plastic may get too brittle when cold, but you could try some cheap washable plastic plates (dollar store fine dining, not the throw away kind).  Maybe those &quot;for sale&quot; signs (paint it or turn it around face down, don't want to get bugged).  Just about any flat piece of it that will lay on the stays, and easy to shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about a metal solution but I'm not a fan of sharp edges, and it may weigh more.  I'm not a metal worker so I couldn't tell you if filing would work well enough.  An old license plate (with painted numbers instead of raised), some discarded duct work, cookie/popcorn gift tin (ah, they do have a purpose!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a note how far the wheel comes up the seat stays (mark with some painters tape), then take it off.  Take some heavy paper and template it out.  Shape it to lay on the stays without sticking out too far (or fit between them, your choice) and have it go past the wheel mark.  Mark out the space the wheel will need.  Take it to your material and cut it out, drill out some holes for zip ties, and attach.  I bet it wouldn't take more than an hour to get a good enough solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a close idea to what I'm thinking.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fgypsybytrade.files.wordpress.com%2F2014%2F04%2Fnicholascarman1-2304.jpg%3Fw%3D584%26h%3D438&amp;amp;imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fgypsybytrade.wordpress.com%2Ftag%2F29%2F&amp;amp;docid=GRe12NBkjrLzGM&amp;amp;tbnid=EeYDVsPG5F80KM%3A&amp;amp;w=584&amp;amp;h=438&amp;amp;ei=TCpvVe6IIYvfsAXi6oKQAQ&amp;amp;ved=0CAIQxiAwAA&amp;amp;iact=c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a photo search&lt;/a&gt;  of the bridge between the blades of a front suspension fork.  In these the tire is really close to it.  Now imagine creating this and putting on the back tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T16:26:35.160" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T16:26:35.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31044" CreationDate="2015-06-03T12:47:22.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be a spec change by Shimano - I know that there is no change to the Campag chain. As they are not designed to be compatible, if Shimano &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; changed something they will have done so only referencing their own 9s HG type chain which is slightly narrower than Campagnolo's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other things to look at are a stiif link or a chain rivet protruding slightly at the join.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's once per crank rev (rather than once per full chain rev) it would be more likely to be related to the rings - if you are doing 11000km per chain / cassette I'd guess the rings might be getting pretty tired unless you are changing once every couple of chains - depends whose rings, riding conditions etc ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T12:47:22.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21706" CreationDate="2015-06-03T13:01:21.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that all the manufacturers spend enormous amounts of time &amp;amp; money on R and D to make sure that all their parts are properly compatible and will behave exactly the way they want them to, it's crazy to mix and match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My company do work as a contractor for Campag but another part of my company also look after general mechanics training and so we are very familiar with Shimano, SRAM etc at all levels -  and if you asked if a Campag chain could be used with Shimano I'd say the same as the other way about - yes, it'll &lt;em&gt;work&lt;/em&gt; but it won't work as intended or even as well as the proper item - you will also be binning your warranty and if it all goes wrong and you end up in hospital, don't even bother trying to sue either manufacturer ... the same applies with KMC (here, KMC take up the liability, good luck with that if you ever need to call them to account) and SRAM - designed to work with SRAM of course ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all completely normal and to be expected. The days when you could mix and match with total impunity disappeared some while ago ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T13:01:21.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13557" CreationDate="2015-06-03T13:13:06.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Anonymous Donor is wrong, I am afraid - you will find that the chainrings on the 11s cranks are effectively closer together and you may well get issues with the chain touching the outer ring when you are on the inner ring and the smallest 2 or possibly even 3 sprockets (depends on the frame geometry). Sometimes this just causes noise and it's an irritation only, other times the lift pins on the inside of the outer ring will pick the bottom run of chain up &amp;amp; you will get a chain-suck type effect that can do a lot of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front mech set up is also sightly more difficult although that can be persuaded to work - it won't work as well, though, as a full 10s system and you may get chainn-drop issues going from big to small ring, and &quot;float&quot; issues coming back up from small to big ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compact is available in 10s, in the current range with Veloce and there are still quite a few vendors advertising Centaur 10s if you want a lighter, carbon chainset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T13:13:06.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T13:20:38.363" Score="1" ViewCount="6491" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm breaking a chain with a master link (to remove the chain from the bike), usually I can do it with my hands by pushing the links together until the master link comes apart. But sometimes it's trickier than others, and can be a recipe for sore thumbs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are special tools that help with this, but I'm curious if there's a trick I'm missing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is an easy, reliable way to un-do the master link (even when stuck), without any specialty master-link-specific tools? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14178" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T13:47:16.973" Title="Easiest way to remove a chain master link / masterlink" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;master-link&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31059" CreationDate="2015-06-03T13:21:46.490" Score="18" ViewCount="28471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Dutch town bike with Shimano IM80 roller brakes. They're brilliant. Maintenance free, clean, and effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at getting a long range touring bike for an initial 3 month camping/hostel trip to Japan, and so I need a more suitable bike. It's probably best that I stick with what I know and like, but it seems that everyone says roller brakes just won't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this? Here's a summary of the issues and my initial thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;They can't cope with sustained braking on descent.&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is this because of temperature? The cooling fins on a Shimano IM81 roller brake are huge compared to disc brakes. Why is this a problem?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;They can't handle heavy loads.&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I give lifts to adult passengers on the back of my heavy bike (a total weight of at least 150kg) and while braking performance is affected it's not catastrophic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really appreciate answers that address the technical performance and safety issues that mean hub brakes aren't recommended. I'm aware maintenance (particularly in the field), weight, interoperability, and style are other factors that need consideration independently from the operation. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12648" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T19:26:54.387" Title="Why aren't hub/drum/roller brakes suitable for touring?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="14" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31055" CreationDate="2015-06-03T13:47:16.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to remove the tension from the chain. One way is using a small piece of wire to slacken the chain such as this one made by Topeak:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O8Bgn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which you hook in a few links to the left of the quick link and a few links to the right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1GnlOS5Bgn0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rear derailleur&lt;/a&gt;. Then, just pinch them together and slide your fingers opposite ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that still is too hard, you can use a tool like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/master-link-pliers-mlp-1-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool MLP-1.2&lt;/a&gt; or a pair of needlenose pliers as a substitute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T13:47:16.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31028" CreationDate="2015-06-03T13:51:36.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;pedaling out of a corner gives more traction at the rear wheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason racers sometimes pedal out of corners is unrelated to grip. They do this in order to maximize the exit speed, especially in case they didn't corner perfectly (probably tapped the brakes) and lost momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T13:51:36.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31056" CreationDate="2015-06-03T16:12:32.267" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Their main problem is your first bullet hypothesis: They can't cope as well with sustained braking on descent, as that is where brakes are challenged the hardest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with the extra cooling fins, on a long descent, the brake may overheat, and may catastrophically fail. Riders using roller brakes have reported the brakes getting hot enough to ignite the internal lubricants inside the hub when making descents on tandems or loaded bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you had cooling fins the size of the wheel, you are generating heat inside the hub, and that heat has to travel out to the fins, which is surprisingly slow. Going down a mountain, you theoretically could have your hub start on fire, while the outer parts of the cooling fins could be cool to the touch. Disc brakes don't have that as the source of the energy is at the caliper which is on the outside of the rotors, but even then those have failed from overheating too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight aspect on its own isn't too big a deal, even with heavy loads,&#xA;you can only slow down so much before you are completely stopped. However, when descending, you can drag the brakes and build up heat faster than it can be dissipated, and combining a descent with a heavy load doubles the demands on the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, every bicycle brake system turns kinetic energy into heat, and has a maximum wattage it can operate at continuously. What increases the wattage is greater deceleration or greater loads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were touring across Iowa, you'd be totally fine. Japan is pretty mountainous. If you are going to only be traveling where the terrain is pretty gentle, you'd probably be OK. If you are going into the mountains though, you'll want a different brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T16:12:32.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31047" CreationDate="2015-06-03T16:41:46.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a good number of miles on a set of Ksyrium Equipes, and got weary of paying my LBS to replace broken spokes. Mavic uses a proprietary spoke, meaning my LBS does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; keep them in stock, so I ended up buying them and kept a supply of spokes. After three broken spokes-- always rear wheel, always non-drive side-- I had enough. Admittedly, I weigh around 200 lbs (91 kg), so I'm sure that was part of it, but publicly Mavic does not provide any weight limits for their wheels, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.superclydesdale.com/?p=1055&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;though privately they apparently do&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I did not use the wheels for cyclocross... just regular road riding. You did not mention how much you weigh; without knowing that, and based just on my own experience, I'd encourage you to find a more durable wheel &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2006/10/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-noisy-mavic-freehubs_101299&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;that doesn't require as much maintenance&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T16:41:46.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5647" CreationDate="2015-06-03T16:41:50.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I 've used toe clips but switched to clipless pedals for almost three decades. I also tried flatless pedals on one of my bikes.&#xA;Eventually I returned to toe clips and double straps. First reason for going back is reliability: cleats tend to quickly wear out if used a lot. As a result I inadvertedly detached from the clipless pedals several times over the years. I also learned that most clipless pedals, except the most expensive are not well made. In particular, the quality of the ball bearings is much better with conventional pedals. Second, clips/straps are more convenient: if not tightened up you can use them with almost any sort of shoes. &#xA;If used in a proper way clips /straps are perfectly safe. However, you do have to learn how to use them. Thus they should probably not be used by the average inexperienced cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19790" LastEditorUserId="19790" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T16:56:51.127" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T16:56:51.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31068" CreationDate="2015-06-03T17:46:07.497" Score="13" ViewCount="9862" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.forbes.com/sites/jimgorzelany/2014/08/18/the-most-stolen-new-and-used-cars-in-america/&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on the most commonly stolen cars, and having my bike stolen recently, I got to thinking: do certain makes/models/types of bikes get stolen more than others? My bike was a 15 year-old GT Aggressor 2.0 (Mountain bike) and it was stolen out of my back yard. I just have a hard time thinking that someone was seeking out that year/model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem that most bike thefts are crimes of opportunity, opposed to targeted attacks, but I don't see any data to back that up. Also, it seems like for cars, the cars that are stolen the most, just so happen to be the same cars most commonly driven. I assume the same would go for bicycles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any bike thieves want to chime in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T06:25:21.987" Title="Do certain makes/models/types of bikes get stolen more than others?" Tags="&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31079" CreationDate="2015-06-03T17:58:34.873" Score="13" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute on my bike through an industrial area and cross many train tracks. They very in degrees: most are perpendicular to the road, but some have a very low angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is two part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to cross tracks. It is commonly known that perpendicular is best, but sometimes that is difficult to do given traffic and road circumstances. Also, should one &quot;hop&quot; to reduce impact on tires, or is their some other better technique? It can feel quite jarring to fly over tracks - is there a risk of damaging a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that some kind of altered riding pattern is preferred, what is the best way to do so without impeding traffic or upsetting drivers. Some of the tracks I cross have no shoulder but they do have anxious cars speeding up to get on the freeway. A dismount would be very unpopular in those settings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T16:37:57.380" Title="What is the best way to approach train tracks?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;legal&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31047" CreationDate="2015-06-03T18:21:45.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably not a great idea, although they might not be a terrible option as pit wheels (where the choice is finishing in less-than-ideal conditions or DNFing).  The Equipes I've seen have fairly low spoke counts (20 or 24) and are narrow by contemporary road wheel standards (19mm).  There's no reason to go with such low spoke counts for CX even if you're pretty small, and as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/31060/19376&quot;&gt;Zippy The Pinhead mentions&lt;/a&gt;, the spokes are nonstandard.  (IME, almost everything about midrange and lower-end Mavic wheels is unnecessarily difficult to service, though.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mavic claims you can mount a 32mm tire on these rims but the sidewalls will stick so far out from the edges of the rim that you'll have a crummy contact patch and will need to run awfully high pressures to avoid pinch flatting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that you can probably sell these Equipes (if you have no other use for them and they're in good shape) for $300 and then get a set of decent CX wheels built up with Major Tom rims, midrange hubs, and all-around tires for around $500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19376" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T18:21:45.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31063" CreationDate="2015-06-03T18:42:27.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Approach as perpendicular as reasonable.  Adjust your speed as required.  I hop the front and let the rear side.  The problem with hopping the rear is you are coming to the other track on the front.  Choice of tires is critical.  If you are on 25 mm then walk or ride real slow.  I commute on CX with lower pressure 35 mm and tracks are pretty easy.  But I have taken some nasty falls as with too much speed the rear will slide out far and fast.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T18:42:27.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31056" CreationDate="2015-06-03T19:08:46.520" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has been pointed out, closed brakes are not ideal from the standpoint of disipating the energy built up through friction. This has also been experienced in the automotive world, where drum brakes were standard during many decades. Some would say they still are, e.g. on rear axels of light commercial vehicles such as pick-up trucks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, although there have been accidents (even truck accidents) at times, they seem to have occurred mostly in mountain regions and with drivers at the wheel who were not used to driving in such conditions. Mountain drivers are/were used to &quot;listening&quot; to the feel of their brakes, and knowing when to back off, slow down -or even stop completely, and take a break- before the brakes became completely non-responsive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is less of a problem with disk brakes, as they have larger areas in contact with ambient air, air circulates more rapidly around them, and the areas that actually generate heat (where the pads rest) are completely exposed to the air. Bicycle caliper brakes are a bit of the same, but even better in the sense that the metal getting heated has even more area (the whole wheel rim). However, caliper brakes are applied to the outside of the wheel, and not near to the axis such as with disk brakes. This has its drawbacks (more tendency to go over the front wheel), which is probably why dirt track descent riders all go with disk brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would tend to think all types of brakes could serve your purpose well, but that hub brakes will need more attention from you, specially when going down long descents. You will need to stop more often, to let them cool off. On the other hand, you seem to be familiar with them already, and you will be on holiday, so... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a nice trip!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19784" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T19:08:46.520" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31062" CreationDate="2015-06-03T20:40:15.980" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a lifelong cyclist, including big cities like SF, Oakland, Baltimore, DC, Atlanta, etc...   And I've worked in a few bike shops so I've heard several stories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, there are 2 kinds of bike thefts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crimes of opportunity. Meaning, if a thief thinks they can sell it for $20 or more and they think they can get away with it.  These folks will steal any &quot;decent looking&quot; bike. These thefts are atributed to drug addicts.  But, I've heard of all kinds of people doing this.  Some do it for the thrill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Professional&quot; bike thieves.  The kind that patrol cities and universities looking for bikes that they can flip on craigslist or ebay for good money.  They sometimes patrol in vans stealing a dozen in one night using professional tools.  They usually steal in one city and sell via craigslist in another.  These guys know the difference between cheap bikes and nice bikes.  They go for the latter exclusively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No bike is 100% safe, even in your garage, house or apartment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No lock is 100% safe.  They just buy time.  A cheap lock is worth about 5 seconds.  An expensive lock is worth about 10-15 minutes.  If the thief has the time and won't be interrupted, they may go for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17316" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T20:40:15.980" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31056" CreationDate="2015-06-03T21:22:28.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rollerbrakes.html#brakes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown has this to say&lt;/a&gt; about disadvantages of roller brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Disadvantages? [...] Only large Rollerbrakes with large cooling fins have enough heat dissipation for speed control on downgrades -- no Rollerbrake is suitable for use as a drag brake on a cargo bike or tandem. There have been reports of grease's catching on fire during long descents! Overheating to this degree will require replacement of the brake, and rebuilding of the adjacent hub bearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That doesn't sound like something I would want to deal with on a touring bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T20:40:23.237" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T20:40:23.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T21:37:14.927" Score="2" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rockshox Dart II from 2007. I have recently rebuilt it for the first time in 9 years as it had basically locked up, and not so surprisingly given its neglectful treatment, its still not really doing what it is supposed to. while the fork drives with significantly less stiction and reaches its travel limits, there is so much rebound, even when the adjuster is fully open, that it would probably be better suited on my car. I assume the rebound and compression have had it, but I wonder if there is a fix that doesn't involve buying a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19780" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T16:11:52.690" Title="Fork damper circuit reconditioning" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30823" CreationDate="2015-06-03T21:42:38.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would definitely be better off buying two shorter chains rather than one long chain. With one long chain that goes through both wheels and the frame you'll be wasting a lot of chain just covering the distance between the wheels. Plus two chains gives you more locking options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while a 16mm Pragmasis Protector chain is an incredibly secure choice (if paired with an equally good padlock), it's completely impractical for mobile security. For example, the 1m long Protector chain with a Squire SS65CS Stronghold Lock weighs 12.13 lb (5.5 kg). That's the equivalent of nearly 15 cans of Coke!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a 10mm chain is about the limit of what is practically portable as an every day chain. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebestbikelock.com/best-chain-lock/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kryptonite New York Noose&lt;/a&gt; is a good choice because the noose design means less chain goes further. You might be able to get away with the 30&quot; (75 cm) version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you would still need another lock. Maybe a U-lock would be better for a secondary lock? Or have you thought about two U-locks? Whatever you choose, I wouldn't recommend anything rated less than Sold Secure Silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run a website where you can compare the lengths, weights and security ratings of some of the most popular &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebestbikelock.com/best-chain-lock/chain-lock-comparison/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chain locks&lt;/a&gt;. And U-locks too. So let me know if you need anymore information!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19794" LastEditorUserId="19794" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T21:56:37.537" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T21:56:37.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T23:12:04.047" Score="2" ViewCount="8305" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a casual rider and I am starting to consider switching from a mountain bike to a road bike. My main concern is that I don't ride enough to adapt to a road bike and thus is not worth the switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the different position, new muscles will probably be used, I may not be flexible enough, etc. I will need some time to feel as good on a road bike as on a mountain bike. &lt;strong&gt;How long will it take if I only ride once a week 40-70 km (25-45 mi)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware that it depends a lot on the cyclist, my question is more about whether it will take 2 weeks, 6 months, or if it's not enough to get used to a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19701" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T23:51:34.910" Title="Period of adaptation between a mountain bike and a road bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31072" CreationDate="2015-06-04T00:32:02.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just went through the same adjustment process. I used to ride only mountain bikes for about 15 years. Then I got a cyclocross bike in March of this year, which we can regard as equivalent to a road bike for the purposes of this discussion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On short rides (&amp;lt; 1 hour) it was OK, but on longer rides my neck and shoulders started hurting a lot after about 2-3 hours.  After 3 months, this is slowly getting better.  I've had about 8 longer rides between 60 and 90 miles so far. Strava tells me I've ridden the new bike for 831 miles.  Apparently it's still going to take a bit more before I've completely adapted to this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had some lower back pain at first, but that went away very quickly (maybe 3 rides of 1 hour each).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In spite of the discomfort, I like riding the road bike better.  The handlebars are more comfortable for my hands, and I also like that I can go faster than on the mountain bike (17mph --&gt; 21mph)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get back to your specific question, I think it may take much longer than 2 weeks, and perhaps less than 6 months. I'm 43, so if you're younger maybe you will adapt more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add another perspective, my wife switched for a flat bar road bike (similar to a hybrid, but thinner tires) to a regular road bike and never had a single problem.  For her, there was no adjustment required at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T00:32:02.797" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31117" CreationDate="2015-06-04T01:12:19.867" Score="3" ViewCount="9654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard (and noticed) the rear wheel rub on the frame and front derailleur cage when pedaling standing up. The frame shows some paint wear at one spot. And, in the lowest gear, if I crank hard, I can hear the tire rub on the derailleur cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm riding a Kona Splice (20&quot;, 29er).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the lowest gear, the front derailleur cage is pretty close to the tire as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I upgrade parts? Tighten parts? Or not stand up at all knowing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit #1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires: Bontrager 29x2.1&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit #2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2013 specs show Geax Evolutions, 29x1.9&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit #3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went lapping our &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/cSi5umS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;backyard circuit&lt;/a&gt; just now. It would rub when climbing the east and west staights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pic of the rubbing on the frame (not as bad as I remembered):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HqTHu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pic of me essentially pushing with my thumb, the tire fairly close to the frame:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BBGm6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I try to move the rim, it doesn't move really. It would seem that it's only the tire/rubber? Under inflated perhaps? I'm around or below 30psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit #4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://2k12.konaworld.com/mtb_trail_allmountain_hardtail.cfm?content=splice#2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2012 model&lt;/a&gt;, confirmed with the color of the frame and the posted pics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specs show 29x2.1, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vittoria.com/tire/mezcal/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vittoria Mezcal&lt;/a&gt;, why did the shop I bought the bike from swap those out for some Geax?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, why did the following models come with 29x1.9&quot;? Also, in 2014, the Splice became a cross bike :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15752" LastEditorUserId="15752" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T10:31:28.210" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T10:31:28.210" Title="Rear wheel rubs frame/cage while pedaling standing up" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31304" CreationDate="2015-06-04T01:15:18.140" Score="5" ViewCount="1463" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if riding hard strengthens the knee or causes degradation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I exercise regularly and am in solid physical condition.  When strength training off of the bike, I do a lot of leg work including heavy squats, deadlifts, lunges, etc.  I've been doing this seriously for 5 years or so alongside riding, mostly road, and it's done nothing but help when I get in the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when I get on the bike and ride hard, which is usually 4-5 days a week in season, I have leg soreness (obviously).  However, I get sore in the knee - not pain per se - just soreness.  The soreness is mostly felt in the structures that hold the knee together, i.e. ACL, MCL, LCL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I strength train I don't get sore like this - the soreness is all in the muscles, i.e. quads, glutes, hamstrings, as opposed to the ligaments.  In fact, I've never done anything besides cycling which induces this type of soreness.  That said, is this good in the long run?  Am I strengthening my knees or slowly working toward future knee problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T16:07:50.027" Title="Does cycling make one's knees stronger?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31056" CreationDate="2015-06-04T01:22:37.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dutch town bikes are the norm in Japan (I live in Japan BTW). Most Japanese Dutch style bikes have a rim brake up front and a drum brake in the rear. Rim brake is for help going down hills and the like. As mountainous as Japan is the cities tend to be flat with hills. Most Japanese ride down hills no problem on a dutch bike. However, most Japanese walk their bike up hills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, dutch bikes are everywhere in Japan and drum brakes are the norm so get riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T01:22:37.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31082" CreationDate="2015-06-04T01:34:25.580" Score="2" ViewCount="979" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike equipped with a SRAM 22 speed groupset (hydraulic) and was thinking about converting it to a 1x11.  I like the simplicity of the 1x11 system and the potential weight savings from removal of redundant components.  Is this conversion possible and if so, what steps would I need to take assuming I possess all the required tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T10:43:26.320" Title="22 to 11 speed conversion?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;groupsets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31063" CreationDate="2015-06-04T02:04:22.750" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly I would say that you should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; ride in a way that is &lt;em&gt;safe for you&lt;/em&gt;. If drivers have to wait as you take the necessary care, then so be it. They would have to wait &lt;em&gt;hours&lt;/em&gt; if you fell and were killed. The only person taking responsibility for your safety is you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in Melbourne (Australia), in addition to train tracks, we have tram tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6rUnu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Melbourne Tram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rails tracks usually cross the road at angles from 90° to 30°. But tram tracks run &lt;em&gt;along&lt;/em&gt; the roads, and also cross at various angles. Everybody falls &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; once on the tram tracks, after allowing the front wheel to drop into the slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Danger&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The danger is not just an embarrassing fall. Other traffic can hit you as you are suddenly launched sideways, under their wheels with fatal results. Less severe is if the wheel get caught in the slot, resulting in a buckled wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tracks cause, as you say, jarring, then there is a risk that you can loose control. So slow down. Just assertively signal your intentions to surrounding traffic, and do what you need to do. If you travel the same route at regular times, the other drivers will get used to seeing you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main risk to your bike in my experience is pinch flats. So keep enough air in your tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The issues&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people can hop one obstacle, but two in quick succession, less than a bike length apart, is not in &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; skill set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With both train and tram tracks, there are two issues to assessed for every crossing and one item concerning your bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How rough is the crossing? Is the road surface level with the tracks, or is it broken?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How wide is the gap?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How wide are your tires?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crossing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the road surface is not level with the top of the tracks, or is broken. If this is the case, cross as close to 90° as you can, as slowly as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tram tracks in good condition have a gap of about 5cm (2 inches). At worst they can be 10cm (4 inches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Train tracks occasionally have a gap as small as 5 cm (2 inches) but usually have gap of about 7 or 8 cm (3 inches), and sometimes much wider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a level surface, the angle is dictated by your tire width and the gap. For typical 23mm road bike tires, the minimum angle I recommend for tram tracks in good condition is 30°, and for train tracks in good condition it's 45°.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I typically cross tram tracks at angles as low as 20°, using what Daniel called &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31063/what-is-the-best-way-to-approach-train-tracks#comment59480_31063&quot;&gt;levitation&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many uncertain cycling situations, ride &quot;hands and heels&quot;, with your bum off the seat, so that the bike can pivot under you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are crossing at a low angle, extend your arms and legs before you get to the tracks, so that your body is at it's highest above the bike. As the front wheel gets to the first track, pull the handlebars up, so that the wheel has little or no weight on it as it crosses the track. If you are clipped in, or are proficient at bunny hops, do the same for the back wheel. And repeat for the second track. Again: this is only good for narrow approach angles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another technique to use in combination is to steer so that your front wheel crosses at a greater angle than your overall direction of travel. The front wheel would follow a sort of straitish S bend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T12:29:06.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31084" CreationDate="2015-06-04T02:05:26.297" Score="1" ViewCount="2446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started biking again after 5 years. However, I had endured unusual coccyx pain when I had a longer than usual ride (~11 miles). I even had my skin chafed/torn where the tailbone meets the saddle which made me think that I might have had too much pressure and friction in the coccyx area while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to purchase bike shorts with a padded chamois and/or a new saddle such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rido-cyclesaddles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rido&lt;/a&gt;. Since I can't afford both at the same time, my question is, would the short make a big difference in alleviating pressure from coccyx or should I consider changing my saddle first? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a 2015 Trek X-Caliber 6 with a Bontrager Evoke 1.5 saddle. I ride both on the road and the trail but the painful ride was on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19801" LastEditorUserId="19801" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T02:35:45.227" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T03:31:34.907" Title="Alleviating pressure from coccyx with padded shorts" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;pain&gt;&lt;chamois&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31076" CreationDate="2015-06-04T02:31:58.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key point in your question is &lt;em&gt;I get on the bike and ride hard&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with riding hard, but it sounds like you're riding too hard for your knees to be happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you like doing weights, I suspect that you like to push the pedals hard, and this is causing the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike fit issues can cause knee soreness, but they also tend to have other symptoms also, such as back soreness or neck pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to train yourself to ride with higher cadence, ie to spin the pedals faster. Aim to get into the 90-100 rpm range, or even higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many questions here tagged &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/cadence&quot;&gt;cadence&lt;/a&gt;, the most useful for you may be &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12518/what-is-the-optimal-cadence&quot;&gt;What is the optimal cadence?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/25279/will-increasing-cadence-ability-hurt-my-climbing-strength&quot;&gt;will increasing cadence ability hurt my climbing strength?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T02:31:58.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31078" CreationDate="2015-06-04T02:33:05.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's as easy as removing the front shifter, shifter cabling, front derailleur, and changing your crankset from a double to a single.&#xA;If you have a brifter, you can remove the derailleur cable and figure out some way to keep the brifter from flopping (jb weld, etc) if you don't want to replace it with a brake lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major expense will be getting a single crankset.&#xA;(Depending on your crankset spider and desired front gear, you may be able to keep your old crankset as described in comments below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools you'll need aside from the usual allen wrenches and screw drivers will be a crankset puller and pedal wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the weight savings are minimal. You'd save more weight by not having a cheeseburger for lunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T03:45:01.060" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T03:45:01.060" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31062" CreationDate="2015-06-04T02:50:17.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on your area and how fancy your bike is, there are plenty of videos of thieves nicking bikes, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.funkedupfixies.com/blog/how-to-lock-your-bike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this page&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rule of thumb is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if it's carbon never leave the bike anywhere you can't see. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your bike looks at all fancy, never leave it anywhere you can't see. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is an average looking bike, make sure you use a D-lock and make sure it is as small as possible, and preferably difficult to get at&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never, ever only rely on a chain or cable type of lock as they are just about useless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously don't lock your bike to anything that is easy to just cut off, like a tree&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about it as if you were nicking a bike, if you have any kind of moderate sized pair of bolt cutters it would take you seconds to get a chain or cable off. These days stuff like battery operated angle grinders are so common, it would take you less that 1 minute to get pretty much any kind of lock off(including D locks). Scary, but true. Thieves have also been known to use small hydraulic jacks as well, will break a D lock in literally seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was living in London, which is well know for bikes disappearing, I would never actually leave the bike on the street as it was almost guaranteed to go missing. If you are in this kind of area buy a folding bike like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brompton.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brompton&lt;/a&gt; and just don't risk it! You can fold it and leave it in your house or under your desk at work, you can also take it on public transport everywhere I have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to run the risk, make sure that your all your wheels are locked through the rims (not just in the spokes) for both front and back wheels, especially if you use quickrelease wheels (In London my boss lost a rear wheel because of this) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have personally lost a AU$1,000 bike and I swore it would never happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19802" LastEditorUserId="19802" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T23:56:07.343" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T23:56:07.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31080" CreationDate="2015-06-04T03:31:34.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biking shorts could help but it's good to understand some things. First is that your coccyx shouldn't be touching the saddle or minimally if it does. A lot of people make the mistake of getting a cushy bike seat to alleviate such pain. The problem with squishy bike seats is that your sit bones sink down into the saddle and all the squishy stuff packs into your crack and starts pushing on stuff up there. Imagine a really hard seat - your sit bones contact the saddle and nothing squeezes up into the soft area. Of course, between the bones and this hypothetical hard saddle is tissue and skin which can get irritated and bruised. Which is why we have padded saddles. Appropriately padded saddles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the first thing I'd suggest is trying a new saddle. Something firmer and made out of quality materials. Stock saddles can be pretty bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chamois in bike shorts is like a second pair of socks on a hike. It adds a layer of padding and friction relief in that bones/tissue/saddle interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, bike shorts might help but the right saddle alone will enable you to comfortably complete an ~11 mile ride without butt bruises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat - exceptions to all of this if you are anatomically abnormal in any way, I am particularly thinking of overweight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat no. 2 - it takes time to get used to being back on the bike. Your butt is going to scream at you if you over-do it and cause some tissue bruising. And if you do that you aren't going to want to get back on the bike. So take it easy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And oh yeah - look at saddles with anatomical cut outs, those work really well for some people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And oh oh yeah. Some stores have a test program where they mail you like ten saddles and you ride all of them as you like in order to find one that fits. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportfit-lab.com/bike-seat-demo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sportfit-lab.com/bike-seat-demo.html&lt;/a&gt;. WTB also has a ten-pack that they sell shops - shops that have that should rent you a saddle for a week for like 10 bucks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T03:31:34.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-04T08:35:46.547" Score="2" ViewCount="1023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been searching for a while regarding a problem with my Specialized Brain. Here is the story..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a 2008 Specialized Stumpjumper Expert 2nd hand and immediately noticed air in the shock. The brain hose was loose and so off it went to a place (not Fox or Specialized) to get rebuilt. I got it back and it was fine for a while but then after about 20hrs I noticed a lumpiness in the compression stroke. It seemed to be a judder, or like a notch. I sent it back, rebuilt, same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it air in there? Or do you think it is the brass inertia mass out of tolerance in its sleeve and hence fluttering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to take it back from the chap who is rebuilding, strip it, check the tolerance, machine a new mass if needed and then rebuild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any idea about what it could be, would be grateful. Also if anyone could help with any instruction on the strip and re-build, would be even cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19767" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T12:19:28.540" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T12:19:28.540" Title="Specialized Brain problem" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31062" CreationDate="2015-06-04T09:30:39.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether or not a vehicle (motorized or not) is stolen depends on how desirable it is and how secure it is. For cars left on the street, the make and model determines both of these factors. For bikes, though, the security is determined by the lock used, which is not directly determined by the make and model of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that reason, I doubt that statistics about what is the most stolen bike would be very relevant. Looking for the most often broken locks would be much more pertinent. But even that's not very pertinent, since a badly used strong lock offers little protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13174" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T09:37:26.023" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T09:37:26.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-04T09:59:28.367" Score="0" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lithium grease, white litium grease, graphite grease, carbon grease, SRAM`s Liquid O-ring. And those are only the types of greases I have heard about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of grease would be suitable for bearings like headsets, BBs, Shimano hubs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T09:59:28.367" Title="What type of grease to use as general purpose bearing lubricant?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-06-04T14:59:37.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-04T10:02:40.483" Score="3" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what to call it, but a couple of my wheels are missing the grippy washer thing that sits on the lock nut. They seem to be attached to the lock nut to begin with, but they just fall off after a while and get lost when swapping wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can they be replaced?  If so, where can I find the replacement part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UnRYC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;with&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3Gvj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;without&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="452" LastEditorUserId="452" LastEditDate="2018-01-16T18:41:45.523" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T18:41:45.523" Title="Missing lock nut part on Dura Ace WH-7900 wheels" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31078" CreationDate="2015-06-04T10:37:39.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;SRAM has some excellent information on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/road/sram-1x-and-2x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1x and 2x.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could just sub in one of their single speed cranks.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But their 1x group sets don't share rear derailleurs - the whole drive train is designed around 1x.  They operate with more tension on the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a nice group set now in the Red 22.  I would not switch out the front only. The weight saving is minor and you still don't have a true 1x.  You current chain rings are not redundant - they are different sizes - one is not merely a spare to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to do 1x right then a whole group set but that is over $1000.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is let your 22 be what it is.  You have working paid for FD and crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T10:43:26.320" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T10:43:26.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-04T10:46:45.570" Score="2" ViewCount="4604" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bottom bracket shell is 68 mm English thread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a 1 mm spacer on the drive side BB to move the chain rings further away from the frame, so to prevent the chain rub against the inside of the front derailleur cage when the chain is on the small front ring and largest rear cog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have already adjusted the FD limit screws, there is no way the FD can go any further to the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I adding the spacer the rub is very obvious. After adding the spacer the rub is very minor but I want to eliminate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I　add one more 1 mm spacer on the drive side? I already added another 1 mm spacer on the non-drive side because left crank will rub the kick stand without it. So I already put total of 2 mm spacers on the BB. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I add one more on the drive side? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17275" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T12:05:25.213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T07:15:53.720" Title="How many spacers I can put on a Shimano hollowtec 2 BB for a 68 mm BB shell" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31090" CreationDate="2015-06-04T11:50:50.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution is not in more spacers but a wider bottom bracket spindle. If you put too many spacers in your BB it will loosen easier and potentially cause more damage to you and your bike. I would take your BB off and bring it to your LBS and have them measure it and get you the next size or two (depending on how bad the chain rub is). You may have a bb that is 68X110 so you would need a 68x113 or 115 or even 118. Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19382" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T11:50:50.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31075" CreationDate="2015-06-04T11:55:37.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check to see if the wheel is true and the axle is straight.  I have a bike that starts to rub the kick stand when the wheel is getting out of true.  The axle also has a slight bend in it so I need to check its orientation as well when reinstalling the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps moving down a notch or two on the tire width would help as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T11:55:37.420" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31143" CreationDate="2015-06-04T12:38:15.203" Score="2" ViewCount="2822" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a set of custom wheels (White Industries T11 hubs) and when the cassette is correctly fastened to the hub with the single spacer provided the cassette cogs can be moved in the direction around the cassette (not laterally) ever so slightly. This causes an audible klank when the cogs are engaged and is generally not good. The solution from the wheel builder was to add an additional spacer between the hub and the cassette. Both spacers used were shipped with the White industry hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using two spacers completely fixes the cassette slip issue but I'm wondering if it is effecting the chain line in some way? I have used the set of wheels on two different frames both with Ultegra group sets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be me but there seems to be slightly more chain rub with the White Industry wheels than other wheels I have used like Mavics. Keep in mind that I am resetting both the front and rear derailers to accommodate the shift. Is it possible the spacers are just too wide? And are there different sizes for these spacers. Thanks in advance, any experience or advice would be appriciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using a 10 speed setup, first bike is a Ridley X-fire (54) second bike is a Sworks Tarmac(58).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18963" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T06:31:15.247" Title="Will two spacers between the cassette and the hub effect the chain line?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34278" CreationDate="2015-06-04T12:52:44.827" Score="3" ViewCount="1031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you can use a junction port (ie: SM-JC41 Internal Junction Box B) for this, but are there any Male to Female extension cables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Root Cause: R600 to 5 port junction for a TT setup near the base lever (Magura's so can't use the standard integrated TT brake/shifter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T11:13:20.787" Title="Are there any Male to Female DI2 wires / exetensions?" Tags="&lt;shimano-di2&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25252" CreationDate="2015-06-04T13:49:37.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my case this problem is because the wheel is out of true and the axle is bent.  For some reason it wasn't taking long for me to put a slight bend in the axle and so I have to adjust its orientation when installing the wheel.  As a side note, I did take a file to the kickstand and gave the tire some more wiggle room.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dan's answer above really answers this question better, this answer is to document my findings and fixing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T13:49:37.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35534" CreationDate="2015-06-04T15:00:18.850" Score="6" ViewCount="6847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at a few tutorials on packing a bike to take it on a plane, and most of them make no mention of disc brakes. One did specifically mention disc brakes, and recommended taking the rotors off and sandwiching them between two small sheets of plywood to stop them getting bent or warped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you just put them back on with the allen key bolts that attach them? Or do you need special alignment tools and a torque wrench? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11416" LastActivityDate="2020-09-03T11:13:55.643" Title="Should disc brake rotors be removed when packing bike for travel?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31097" CreationDate="2015-06-04T16:30:27.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend removing the disc rotors when you travel with a bike regardless of the packaging method.  I have a hard sided case and have done the cardboard box thing (my fat bike does not fit in my hard sided case).  Hard sided cases rely on compression to keep everything in place; compression against the flat side of a rotor is not a good thing.  Remove the rotors and pack them on each side of a  piece of rigid material that will reinforce them and tape the whole thing up.  They can be easily put back on with the proper Torx wrench.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this seems like overkill, keep in mind TSA WILL unpack your bike.  Do not bother closing a cardboard box before getting to the airport, because they will just cut it open.  I leave the box open and leave a roll of tape on top for them to seal it with.  I pack any loose items in the box with the understanding that they will be removed and likely reinserted in a different spot inside the box/case.  That being the case, you want loose items padded or enclosed in something for when they end up someplace you didn't intend them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually make sure to take all the same tools I used to disassemble the bike and pack them as well (usually in a separate padded bag) in the same box/container.  I have always favored the center lock rotors because they were easier on and off for travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T17:25:51.510" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T17:25:51.510" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31063" CreationDate="2015-06-04T18:27:53.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also profit from practicing crossing railroad tracks with no or very little traffic - provided you can find such a crossing nearby. That way, you can try techniques and approach the limits of what's possible without risk of getting run over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T18:27:53.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31072" CreationDate="2015-06-04T18:55:02.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adaptation greatly varies from person to person - are your core muscles strong, do you have good flexibility, problem in your column/shoulders, etc. It's har dto give you an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One think to take into account is that most road bikes force a a hard posture on the rider, on the pursuit on speed, mainly on your low back and neck. This is true for any &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.active.com/cycling/articles/how-to-avoid-lower-back-pain-while-cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ages&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you are 43 I would recommend at the very least an endurance bike, instead of a road one. They are very similar, but endurance bikes are designed to race on hard surfaces like cobalt, and have some compliance on the frame, slightly bigger tires and softer contact points with your body. Take a look &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhX4qGpWXV9tM8DjNCVn87uN4kaklpIF4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; so you have an idea of what I am talking about. Another option is a cyclocross bike which might be even more comfortable, and its still a fast road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind the best bike is not the lightest one or the more aerodynamic, is the one you feel better and have more fun in, so resist the temptation to get the cool think on the shop and get something that suits you the best. It doesn't really matter if you take 5 more minutes for the that 10 mile run. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you choose, make an effort to maintain a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikedynamics.co.uk/backpain.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;posture&lt;/a&gt; while riding and ask your shop to check your biometrics and adapt the bike for your body, and it's also a good idea to start slow, instead of going right away for a 60 km bike ride to test 'the ergonomics'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the right bike and since you are a cyclist I am pretty sure you will adapt in 2 or 3 weeks. You should try to cycle more than once per week though, even if it's just small shopping trips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T18:55:02.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31072" CreationDate="2015-06-04T20:52:48.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an MTB rider who occasionally got into a Road Bike for 60 km rides. (5 hours aprox). From experience I would advise several short rides before a very long one. Ride until you feel uncomfortable and keep going for another 10-15 minutes but don't let yourself get into [severe] pain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: Get two 30+ minutes a week for 2 weeks, then grow to two 45+ minute rides a week for another two weeks. So in a month (+/-) you'd be ready for a 1.5 hour weekend ride. After that you grow as you see fit. (These numbers are just a rough reference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you are a casual (read non competitive) rider, &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; set the bike for the most aggressive position, that is, set the stem angled upwards and choose a short one, place the stem spacers bellow the stem to raise the handlebar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you get more used to the bike, you may want to &lt;em&gt;progressively&lt;/em&gt; make changes (adjustments or component swaps) towards a more aerodynamic position, but for starters, I recommend setting the handlebar such that the flat part of the handlebar is at the same distance and relative height from the saddle as your MTB (or as close as possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed MTB and Road bike geometries are very different, but the measurements I found to be more relevant (regarding pain from not being used to them) are the effective distance from the saddle to the grip point, and the height difference among them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that measuring top tube, stem, etc. is a bit fuzzy and of less practical value for the casual rider. Instead, Measure the distance from the center of the saddle (roughly where your sit bones rest while riding) to the point where you actually grip the handlebar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For MTB you got only one grip position, but for road you have at least four: On the flats, on the drops, on the hoods and on the &quot;corners&quot; of the handlebar. Most frequently the rider that comes from an MTB geometry would spend more time on the flats and will progress towards the hoods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, if the road bike has the chosen grip position further away from the saddle and/or lower (compared to the MTB previusly ridden) then the torso will be at a lower angle, puting more weight on the arms and needing more effort to keep the head up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding this last point: &lt;em&gt;Use a road specific helmet or remove the visor from the MTB one.&lt;/em&gt; This is because the visor usually found on MTB helmets is designed to be used with an upright head. On a road bike you would have your head leaned forward, so helmet's visor, if any, gets in the way, forcing you to raise up your head, putting additional strain on the muscles of the back of the neck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T20:52:48.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31072" CreationDate="2015-06-04T20:56:33.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important part of adjusting to a bike it whether the bike is adjusted to you.&#xA;If the bike is set up the best, the right angles for the sitting position, the right height for the seat and handlebars and on and on, you will ride away without getting any serious pains. You might get aching muscles due to the new position but those should not be fierce and not be long lasting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the bike is not adjusted to you in the right way, it might be months of adjusting till you get the best position. Any bike where you have part of your weight on your arms, as you do in road bikes, will require a more precise adjustment than bikes where the weight is on the seat and legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you can say that after a ride on a new bike you are in serious pain, you have to look at how the bike is adjusted to you. In some cases it might be that the bike is the wrong one for you. I had a bike where the stress was on the same group of muscles as were getting too much of a workout at work, I could see that the figuration of the bike was not allowing enough change to avoid that stress. It was a cheap bike and it got handed on to a relative for just a little less money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you pay a lot of money for a high end bike, you might not want to take that risk. In that case it might be worth it to see if you can rent a bike of the type to see whether you like it. Or buy a cheap second hand before you spend a fortune on a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T16:19:06.547" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T16:19:06.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30714" CreationDate="2015-06-05T00:05:32.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With 8 extra links you can make your own chain whip with a nice piece of wood next time you need to swap your cassette. I actually did this recently. Worker reasonably well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19740" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T00:05:32.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-05T00:59:41.737" Score="2" ViewCount="2048" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in buying this, but was curious as to what year the frame is? Any help would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CAHg5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19814" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T04:10:11.413" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T00:59:32.363" Title="What year is this Specialized Stumpjumper FSR?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31104" CreationDate="2015-06-05T04:39:41.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, I don't believe it's a Stumpjumper, I think it is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2001&amp;amp;brand=Specialized&amp;amp;model=S-Works+FSR+XC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2001  Specialized  S-Works FSR XC&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T04:56:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T04:56:37.613" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31090" CreationDate="2015-06-05T07:15:53.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On M542 crank set and 68 mm BB shell, I use one spacer on the left, and 2 on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that on 68 mm shells you always use all 3 spacers, and distribute them on the left/right side to get chain line you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T07:15:53.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30392" CreationDate="2015-06-05T10:13:16.430" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start by considering avoiding the use of a trailer hitch for any other purpose than that for which it has been designed: hitching a trailer. Hitches are constructed to support lateral, longitudinal and vertical forces applied at low heights, the latter up to about 50kg - think a maximum of two bikes and the rack itself. However, they are not built to withstand torque applied either side-to-side or front-to-back. The other vehicle attachment points will have to stand that - but these points are usually on the tailgate which is also not built for that particular purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The safest way I know of transporting bikes on a (perhaps long) trip is inside a rather non-descript van, with no windows potential thiefs can see through and doors that lock. Perhaps you could consider renting such a vehicle? I am sure you can get quite good prices by shopping around and choosing a time frame in which businesses typically do not need to rent many vehicles, e.g. in summer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19784" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T10:13:16.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30820" CreationDate="2015-06-05T12:12:27.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chainwheel does not sit at the correct &lt;code&gt;chain line&lt;/code&gt; is the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common cause is that you have an axle length shorter/longer than the ideal &lt;code&gt;chain line&lt;/code&gt;. In this case, you have a shorter axle length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you add another chainring into your crankset? If the answer is yes, you will need to tweak around: either adding spacer (not recommended) or find a compatible front derailleurs (better get to the LBS for trial/error fitting).&#xA;If the answer is no, then it will be the frame that cause you the problems, albeit unlikely. I always solve this problems by finding a correct axle length for my crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can refer to this article for more information, from Lord Sheldon.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T12:12:27.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-05T12:58:31.190" Score="0" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Greece and I am 13 years old. Recently I found a Flatland frame and thought about building my own bike. Should I build my own bike or should I stick with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stolenbmx.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stolen BMX&lt;/a&gt; I already have?&#xA;I haven't tried to build one before so if you can give me some advice that would be nice. The frame looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Rjsr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19818" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T15:52:32.143" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T15:52:32.143" Title="Should I stick with my Stolen (brand) BMX or should I build my own bike?" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-06-05T15:53:08.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30449" CreationDate="2015-06-05T13:07:44.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, the answer is no. I have been cycling across the Great Glen and have no problem with mechanical disc brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike was moderately loaded with camping equipment. So the load (including me 70 kg) was around 110 kg or 242 lbs. There were continuous downhill sections but the brake works fine, thankfully. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a scientific stand-point, there are three types of fade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green fade - caused by resin boiling off of new pads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fluid fade - brake fluid boiling and system losing pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pad fade - pad overheats and loses friction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring 1, 3rd cause starts to occur at much higher temperature and require time than 2nd cause (which occurs at around 120 oC for moderately contaminated mineral oil*). That is why you need to check your mineral oil before setting out on a trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pad fade is the main factor in Mechanical Disc brake fade. Unless you are not braking heavily and continuously for more than 10-20 minutes, you are fine.&#xA;In number, if you are going down 20% gradient hill, braking continuously to keep your constant speed at 18 kmph (11 mph), the braking power is around 1078 Watts for 110 kg (bike+load+rider). That means, referring to **, you can safely brake&#xA;for hours, if not hundred of hours for the iceTech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/dot-brake-fluid-vs-mineral-oil/images/shell-dot-fluid-boiling-points.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/dot-brake-fluid-vs-mineral-oil/images/shell-dot-fluid-boiling-points.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**&lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/news_and_info/Velotech_Disc_Brake_Test.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/nl/index/news_and_info/Velotech_Disc_Brake_Test.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T13:07:44.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31109" CreationDate="2015-06-05T13:53:10.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gianis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm an old man, but I used to ride BMX street and flatland years (decades) ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of their very specific geometry, Flatland frames are not great for anything but doing tricks.  If you need a general purpose bike for transportation and whatnot, stick with your Stolen (brand) BMX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those wondering, &quot;Stolen&quot; is the name of a BMX equipment manufacturer.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stolenbmx.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stolenbmx.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17316" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T13:53:10.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31088" CreationDate="2015-06-05T14:34:58.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the washer in your photo may be a &quot;Wedge-Lock&quot; washer like those available here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=xhptlp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=xhptlp&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z1oJR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wedge-lock washer from McMaster Carr&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They appear to sell under the names &quot;Heico-Lock&quot; &amp;amp; &quot;Nord-Lock&quot;.&#xA;This may be a UK source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/fasteners-fixings/nuts-washers/locking-anti-vibration-washers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/fasteners-fixings/nuts-washers/locking-anti-vibration-washers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note that there very well may be a similar looking shimano specific part that functions differently &amp;amp; that I am not familiar with. I'm basing this suggestion solely on appearances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone knows that these are in fact not the same as the item pictured by the OP, please enlighten me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To add further to possible resources, at the bottom of this page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.heico-lock.co.uk/products.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.heico-lock.co.uk/products.html&lt;/a&gt; There is a list of &quot;Wedge Lock Nuts &amp;amp; Wheel Nuts&quot; (Nuts with an integrated washer half). I do not see any resale links though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T15:15:06.957" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T15:15:06.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31132" CreationDate="2015-06-05T15:38:22.810" Score="0" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm heading out on a long tour soon on a bike with Shimano STI shifters. That choice was intentional as I don't like bar-ends. However, I notice the gear cables run through stops at downtube shifters bosses and I'm curious if there's a type of cheap friction shifter that would mount on those and could be used on either side that I could carry as an emergency replacement in case an STI ever crapped out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of the bosses on this bike: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WvFQ3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Downtube shifter boss&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone could point to one or more specific models that would fit this, that would be great. Again, the emphasis is on cheap. If I break an STI, I would only need this to limp a day or two to the next major city (tour is in Canada). So I don't want to drop $100+ on some bespoke hand-milled stainless steel shifter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11416" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T15:17:54.523" Title="Ambidextrous backup downtube shifter for touring?" Tags="&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4214" CreationDate="2015-06-05T15:49:32.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I'm about 3 miles behind the parade here, but I use v-brakes on my 'cross bike with STI shifters that I use for commuting, and they work wonderfully.  You have to keep your rims REALLY true, however, because the clearance has to be really small in order to have enough lever throw.  I'm a Clydesdale and can't find road brakes that will give me good stopping power and I've been delighted with the stopping power of the v-brakes (I can skid again!).  Modulation has not been an issue at all.  I HATE cantilevers so experimented with v's and have been more than pleased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19821" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T15:49:32.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31075" CreationDate="2015-06-05T17:57:11.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any bike is going to flex when you pedal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The harder you pedal the more it will flex   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first the question is if it is flexing too much&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Inspect both the wheel and frame for any damage or weakness   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wheel is not centered then it will rub on one side first&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Make sure it is centered   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is centered and no excessive flex then the tire is too large&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you cannot get the tip of your pinky finger between the tire and frame then you most likely don't have enough clearance&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2.1 is extra-ordinary if the bike want not built for it - that is cross&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have a pure mountain bike that tops out at 2.1   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T18:36:59.357" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T18:36:59.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31093" CreationDate="2015-06-05T18:03:06.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're thinking about this from the wrong side of the cassette. All cassettes end at roughly the same point or the lockring wouldn't engage correctly. The spacers are to make sure there is significant compression, but because the cassette is still in the same spot relative to the drive side of the wheel the chainline shouldn't change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said you might want to pick up some different size spacers and see if you can change from 2mm (assuming two 1mm spacers) to 1.5mm. My guess is the amount you'd be able to move the cassette inward is very small, but might be significant. Most bike shops have a few spacer sizes on hand will sell them for $.5-$1 each IIRC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19740" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T18:03:06.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13557" CreationDate="2015-06-05T19:19:10.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am certainly not going to say anyone is wrong here as I haven't tried it. What I can say is that total derailleur &quot;throw&quot; is generally much larger than what gets used once limit screws are set properly so this is not the issue (though it would be more so if using a triple crank where indexing needs to hit that middle ring correctly). For doubles you merely shift up, and you shift down, and the limit screws set where the derailleur movement ends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 11sp cassettes have closer set cogs and narrower spaces between cogs which must be compensated for by a narrower 11 sp chain. Thus the front cranks then get slightly redesigned to also work best with that narrower chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important here is the fact that one can generally run a narrower higher speed chain on a wider, older lower speed group&lt;/strong&gt; (but not vice versa) because the inside spacing of the chain is the same, just the outside width has to be narrower (and less durable) to fit between narrower spaces between cogs and rings on a higher speed group. For example, I run 9sp chains on my vintage 6sp Pinarello, but if I ran a 6sp chain on my 10sp Campy equipped Look, the chain wouldn't even fit between the cogs, let alone shift well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All of the above arguments are saying that a 10sp chain will hang up in an 11 speed crankset but an 11 speed chain WILL work and should work fine on your 10sp groupo too.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that said, I run a Campy Chorus 10 speed groupo with a Shimano 10sp compact crank and 10sp KMC chain on a CX bike with no issues whatsoever. Fact is, most front derailleurs and left brifters don't know or care what speed group or even what brands you are using and intermixing. Its chain compatibility that matters most. I bet I could set up a 9sp shimano front derailleur to work fine on my Campy group simply by adjusting the limit screws and trim appropriately. Derailleur design and throw hasn't changed much in 30 years. CX'ers have regularly run 10sp Campy brifters with 9sp Shimano derailleurs because the Campy brifters are more durable and the Shimano 9sp derailleurs are cheap. In fact I just picked up a 7400 series Shimano 9sp DA front derailleur and some Campy Record 10 brifters and will be running that with my 10sp Shimano compact crank so I am mixing both speeds and brands up front! The key point is that you will likely need an 11sp chain to get best performance with a new 11 speed crank. Lastly, Campy used to tell you that you needed a special Campy derailleur designed to work only with Campy compact cranks. This appears not to be actually true since my standard Campy derailleur works fine even on a Shimano compact crank!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19825" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T13:06:04.213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T13:06:04.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31121" CreationDate="2015-06-05T19:29:53.160" Score="2" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the seatpost shown in the pictures below. It came on a 2010 Specialized Tricross. It looks like Carbon fibre on the outside, but when you look at the open end of the tubing, it actually looks more like a thin layer of Carbon over a normal Aluminum tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tfB7Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Outside of Seatpost&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Clwoz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inside of Seatpost&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct that this tube is mostly aluminum with just a bit of carbon outside? If so, why would they even bother adding the Carbon? Just for show? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is mostly Aluminum, would it be acceptable for a long bike tour? From a durability perspective, that is. The reason I ask is I just got a new bike that came with a pretty basic metal tube with a hard to adjust seat clamp and less offset than this Carbon-wrapped one. I would prefer to use the Carbon seatpost from my Tricross since it has the offset I'm used to and a nicer seat clamp that's a bit easier to adjust fore/aft position and tilt separately. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11416" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T20:05:26.530" Title="Carbon-wrapped Aluminum seatpost?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31120" CreationDate="2015-06-05T20:05:26.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) It's for show, just like the carbon fiber insert on my Leatherman Skeletool CX. See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/6977/why-would-a-bike-feature-a-carbon-wrapped-aluminum-frame&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It's fine for touring provided its in good condition. However, you may still want to get a different seatpost depending on the adjustments available on this one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T20:05:26.530" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34713" CreationDate="2015-06-05T20:41:51.827" Score="4" ViewCount="746" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my rear freewheel hub broke on my single speed belt driven (no metal chain) trek district.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have to replace the rear hub, I'm thinking of replacing the rear hub with an internally geared multi-speed one.  All the bike shops around here seem to have the Sturmey-Archer 3spd, wheras all the youtube videos of people replacing their Trek District hubs are with Shimano Alfine 8 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm riding mostly flats and just need the gears for an uphill bridge (Williamsburg Bridge from Brooklyn to Manhattan) that I ride over every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which hub should I get?  Is the Sturmey-Archer 3spd fine?  How would the gears on that 3 speed compare to the single speed gearing that I currently have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19828" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T20:00:10.403" Title="which multi-speed hub should I upgrade my trek district to" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-05T21:09:04.780" Score="3" ViewCount="802" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sachs - Huret derailleur installation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the learning curve continues on the '85 Peugeot P-16. The main lessons are to take pictures and time getting each thing done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the rear derailleur hung. There are two numbers stamped on the bracket - 24 &amp;amp; 28. Since my large freewheel cog is 28 tooth, I assume there's some correlation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: how do I know which notch the circular spring (which controls the cage/ jockey wheels) rests?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And second Q: the stock rear axle is held in place with a double nut (one piece - 2 nuts wide) on either end which includes a conical washer. This leaves about 3mm of thread showing inside the nut. There's about 5 mm of axle threaded into each side. Can I replace this factory piece with single of even double axle nuts (cone wrench thickness) so the axle &amp;amp; nuts even out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19623" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T13:27:42.187" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T23:38:52.250" Title="Sachs- Huret derailleur (re)installation" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31128" CreationDate="2015-06-05T22:29:10.243" Score="6" ViewCount="5294" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not asking for opinion which one is better, so please do not state without some reasons why one is better than another on eBike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is: Freewheel or Regenerative braking is more efficient in Electric Bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I got:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freewheel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When battery go flat you can use it as a normal bicycle, while with&#xA;RB it feels like riding with a flat wheel (or even worse). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is lighter than hub with RB, and cheaper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar to a bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regenerative Braking (RB)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can charge your battery up whenever you need to stop, albeit minimal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It helps you brake the bikes gradually, especially on downhill section, just like how motorised vehicles work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Akin to motorised vehicle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T16:44:36.820" Title="Electric Bike (eBike): Freewheel or Regenerative braking?" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31124" CreationDate="2015-06-06T03:12:21.720" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freewheeling is almost always better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a freewheel ebike control system fails, it reverts to being a regular bicycle and you can pedal home. Otherwise, you might find that you cannot even push it home if the motor is stuck on heavy regen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, there is very little energy that you can regenerate from a bicycle. There just isn't enough mass or significant enough velocity to make it worthwhile. The regen also makes braking more complicated than it has to be as you need to swap out your brakes/brifters with ones that have brake-switches in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a vigorous discussion on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&amp;amp;t=7891&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;EndlessSphere&lt;/a&gt; forum, Justin Le pulled out data from his cross-country trip. While he did get 18% regen going &lt;em&gt;down&lt;/em&gt; mountains passes, he also only got 1-2% regen touring over rolling terrain. His urban regen data was 11% which is close to the 10% figure that is used as the rough estimate of range extension possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, although this is a just from a single run, you could easily conclude that we'd expect about 5% regen for city riding in mostly flat terrain, 10% regen for city riding with lots of moderate hills, and probably more like 12-14% regen if there are really steep hills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since e-bikers tend to recharge every day and each recharge is only 1-2 cents of electricity, increasing range and efficiency  a modest 10% just isn't  as important as it would be with a hybrid or electric car. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T13:22:46.207" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T13:22:46.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-06T14:00:01.027" Score="3" ViewCount="2009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just out riding my bike. Its nothing fancy, just a €300 single-speed with with a flip-flop hub. I usually ride the freewheel side. Today it made some weird noises and decided to lock up / be a fixed gear and threw me off the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now the freewheel sprocket is behaving like a fixed gear. Is the sprocket completely broken or is there any way to fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19839" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T22:28:30.733" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T02:58:37.830" Title="Freewheel sprocket locking up" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31130" CreationDate="2015-06-06T15:10:02.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freewheels do require lubrication sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that if you drip some oil (I've used air tool oil, which is pretty light, but anything will be OK) in there with the bike tilted so the is freewheel up the pawls with become unstuck and it will work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience it won't take much oil or time, it should free right up if lubrication actually is the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4962" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T15:10:02.237" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31115" CreationDate="2015-06-06T15:17:54.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We need to see what is under the cable stops. My guess is that is is probably a standard squared off shifter boss, but you never know. If it looks like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QGxuu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shifter boss mount&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then any friction downtube shifter should work as a backup. You want to get&#xA;one that is not indexed if at all possible since that way you can use it for &#xA;either front or back derailleurs. Bar end shifters use the same mount, so if you have some of those handy you can see if they fit. The cheapest solution is probably to buy a cheap pair of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/sunrace-stem-mount-shift-lever-friction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sunrace Clamp-on stem friction shifters&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the levers are different, they can be interchanged. You should probably test this in case there are clearance problems and you need to trim the lever &#xA;a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to whether this is worth the cost and weight, I'd say it depends on the remoteness of the tour. If you're within a day's ride of a bike shop for the&#xA;entire tour, then it's probably not worth it. A credit card makes a handy backup&#xA;for a lot of parts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T15:17:54.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31072" CreationDate="2015-06-06T15:50:44.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This year (age 25) I decided to start road biking having never even sat on anything but a MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got persuaded into trying out a used CX first as an introduction to a more road bike geo and soon got into it. Have since bought a road bike too and absolutely love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started doing 20 mile rides once a week, I wasn't getting anywhere with it, but was happy and comfortable doing it. Then in April I kicked myself into gear and now I try to do 3 evening rides after work of 15-30 mile duration and then a longer ride on the weekend. Strava is a great motivator, competing with friends and for challenges (I plan to do June's 115KM Gran Fondo tomorrow). For the first few weeks you'll really see yourself progress speed wise too which is a great motivator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major factor holding me back is weather, I've become obsessed with wind maps and route planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think any reasonably fit person should transition easily, I was terribly unfit but got right into it. If you're worried set the bike up for a more comfort fit (mainly by raising the bars to the top of the stem) while you adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19840" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T15:50:44.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31135" CreationDate="2015-06-06T18:24:33.443" Score="1" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;Product page for the bike i have: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/escape.2/14810/75679/#specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/escape.2/14810/75679/#specifications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not able to make sense of the variations of shimano altus derailleurs,&#xA;here's one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00WY0NRYA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-RD-M280-Altus-Rear-Derailleur/dp/B00WY0NRYA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And would the , KMC Z7 6/7/8-Speed 116L Shimano HG, be a good replacement chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19842" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T18:39:14.413" Title="Need help picking the right rear derailleur and chain for Giant Escape 2" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31134" CreationDate="2015-06-06T18:39:14.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All 8- and 9-speed Shimano mountain derailleurs are compatible. Just pick one that you like. The one thing to worry is long cage versus extra long cage, and unless you know you have an extra wide range of gears, long cage is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain is also fine. If you are changing the chain because is worn out or &quot;stretched&quot;, you should probably replace the rear cogs too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T18:39:14.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30820" CreationDate="2015-06-06T20:44:47.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing the Racing T derailleur with the Athena 11s derailleur fixed the issue.&#xA;The racing T derailleur seams to don't work with the 35mm Campagnolo clamp. Or generally don't work with frames wider than 28mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T20:44:47.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-06T22:36:52.633" Score="1" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;is there a specific website where I can simply enter the bicycle serial number to determine the make model and year primarily BMX frames&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19844" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T00:54:21.290" Title="determining make model and year of a BMX frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2015-06-06T23:51:08.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Researching on this myself, the main reasons I've found is that more surface (road) is better for power transmission and more comfortable on longer rides, which you would also want on MTB but road cleat can be inutilized with mud or just natural soil not tarmac, so you could have problems stepping with road shoes on a MTB track terrain then trying to reclip with stuff inside cleat. There seem to be also range of motion (lateral?) issues, better on MTB pedals but not so needed in road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T23:51:08.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31138" CreationDate="2015-06-07T00:54:21.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Generally, you need to know the manufacturer at least and then see if theres some code for their serial numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T00:54:21.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30994" CreationDate="2015-06-07T01:44:24.083" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stuff To Use:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silicone based lubricant - for all weather conditions - especially good to use in wet or in winter - it's water resistant. It's thicker than teflon based and it's sticky (dust catches onto it making a paste - needs to be re-applied when dirt accumulates).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teflon based lubricant - for dry conditions only, thinner and runs smoother than silicon based. Doesn't catch dust so much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel Bearing grease - it's thinner than other grease which makes the bearing run smoother. Also good for greasing rubber seals and other moving parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thread grease / Anti-seize grease - thicker and stickier, for non-moving parts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Threadlocker - for securing bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where to put stuff:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grease on bolts - for protecting the thread and preventing seizing of the bolt - but read the specifications. Greased bolt takes less force to tighten, so when tighten to spec you might actually over-tighten the bolt when the spec is for dry (should be specified if for dry or greased or with threadlocker, the default is dry when not specified):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ALvv8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bolts on brake components always require threadlocker (go with medium strength) - this means: caliper fixing bolts for both disc or rim brakes + disc brake rotor bolts or road caliper pads fixing bolts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pIq00.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-apply the threadlocker if the factory one has weared off.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shimano recommends dry rear derailleur fixing bolt installation, srams recommends to grease it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Press-fit bottom brackets install dry (the plastic cups into frame). All cartridge bearings should get greased on outer rim (BB30 bearings, etc.):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ayXMH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put grease on threaded BB's, Spindles, Crank Arm, Spindle interfaces and Seals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t7k4f.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bearing grease for all bearings insides, for ceramic bearings there is a special lube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For seatpost apply grease on metal to metal areas. For carbon seatpost apply carbon friction paste.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grease the pedals spindle threads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gZFgE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Derailleur pulley bolts should have high-strength threadlocker applied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWT8h.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Joints of rear suspension systems should be greased.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mtb chains can be both lubed or greased (if bought new they usually come greased), I would prefer lubing over greasing for road chains. Spray lubricants should not be used on bicycle chains, you can easily contaminate other parts of bike. Rather apply lube on each chain link carefully. Wipe excess lubricant so chain is almost dry on outside to not catch dirt and dust.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use lube for external bowdens and shifters on old bikes, modern plastic-lined housings are designed to not be lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use fork oil for fork servicing and for fork seals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19624" LastEditorUserId="19624" LastEditDate="2019-05-06T20:08:05.107" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T20:08:05.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31093" CreationDate="2015-06-07T06:31:15.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok so I figured this out. I tracked down a 0.5mm spacer and when I went to switch out one of the spacers I realised they were almost the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The White Industries spacer are just over 0.5mm. When I lined them up next to a Shimano 1mm spacer they were slightly taller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced the two White industries with one Shimano spacer re indexed, chain rub is completely gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for those who are interested 0.2mm of spacing does throw out the chain line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the input guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moral of the story is use the spacers that come with the cassette not the hub!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18963" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T06:31:15.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-07T09:36:15.383" Score="2" ViewCount="16032" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can an Ultegra or 105 short cage RD handle a 30T  ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19849" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T02:59:19.983" Title="Shimano short cage rear derailleur capacity" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31148" CreationDate="2015-06-07T10:02:07.843" Score="3" ViewCount="8474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make my 8-speed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tokyobikenyc.com/classic-sport-cs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tokyobike Classic Sport&lt;/a&gt; city bike go faster so I'm considering replacing the 8-speed cassette with a 9-speed one which can be found on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tokyobikenyc.com/sport/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tokyobike Sport&lt;/a&gt;. The bike has smaller 650c wheels and is without a front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it a good idea? Or is there another, better way to make the bike faster?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much faster will I actually be able to go?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other parts beside the cassette will have to be replaced?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19836" LastEditorUserId="19836" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T12:55:45.810" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T12:55:45.810" Title="Replacing an 8-speed cassette with a 9-speed one to make my bike faster" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;speed&gt;&lt;modification&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31145" CreationDate="2015-06-07T11:43:37.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are gong to upgrade might as well go to 10 speed.  I think 8, 9, and 10 are compatible.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt;  You would also need to switch out the shifter.   If top gear is the same it will not make the bike go faster.  You just have two more gears between the lowest and highest.  Is it a good idea?  No it is not worth the cost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T11:43:37.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31145" CreationDate="2015-06-07T11:45:32.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to go 9 speed, you'll need a Shimano-compatible 9 speed shifter for the rear (i.e. the right shifter). You'll also want a 9 speed chain. Your hub should be fine for the cassette swap. And the 9 speed cassette, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of how much faster you should go, possibly none. You really need to keep up a good cadence most likely and you'd be better off switching to a different 8 speed cassette than investing in a 9 speed system. And that would cost way less (you may need to add a few links to your chain, so you may need a new chain, but 8 speed chains are significantly cheaper than 9 speed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T11:45:32.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31145" CreationDate="2015-06-07T12:22:34.697" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Blam and Batman have already suggested you will not go faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason is that your top speed is determined by the number of teeth on the smallest rear cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smallest cog available on a normal cluster / cassette has 11 teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your smallest cog already has 11 teeth, then you will definitely not go faster with a new one. If it currently has 12 or more teeth then a new cluster can help you go faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the main way of going faster is simply to pedal faster. With practice, you should be able to pedal at 90 to 100 rpm. I venture to guess that this is at lease half as fast again as your current pedaling speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with pedaling slowly but getting the 11 tooth cog (if you don't have one already) is that you'll put a lot pressure on your knees and back, which often leads to pain and injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of switching to a higher number of gears is that the steps in between the gears is smaller. That can help you find just the right gear for the situation. But it doesn't change your top speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my recommendation is to save you money for now while you practice pedaling faster. See also questions tagged &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/cadence&quot;&gt;cadence&lt;/a&gt;, especially &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12518/what-is-the-optimal-cadence&quot;&gt;What is the optimal cadence?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T12:22:34.697" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-07T13:20:31.753" Score="3" ViewCount="9573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a new bike and had it about a month now. I don't really know much about bikes but I do know how to repair an inner tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had one puncture and just bought a new inner tube. It worked for a few days and then went down again so this time I got a puncture repair kit. I took the inner tube out to check for any punctures and found nothing. I put it in water and pumped it up and there were no bubbles. I went around the entire tube pushing it next to my ear and heard nothing. I checked the tire to see if anything was wrong - there was nothing that I could see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I put it all back together and took it for a ride and got about half a mile and the tire was flat. I pumped it up and got about another half a mile and it was flat again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any suggestions for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19850" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T23:56:50.320" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T00:32:19.443" Title="back tire keeps going down" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2015-06-07T15:45:39.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done the same commute on my old mountain bike for 18 months, then changed to a Scott 20. The difference was phenomenal. I am doing this most of the year in the west of Ireland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop bars are the way to go. I reduced my times considerably once I got used to the completely different gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to look closely at your nutrition if you are doing this as full time commute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19854" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T23:51:02.120" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T23:51:02.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-07T18:10:05.287" Score="5" ViewCount="2389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a pair of Shimano 105 levers and would like to know what sort of mechanism is inside the shifter to track what gear it's on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3Z7S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3Z7S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a potentiometer? Or maybe small switches? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does anyone know the pin-out of the 4-pin cable that connects the shifter to the Shimano's computer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19857" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-10-25T06:38:15.173" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T07:04:02.057" Title="Shimano 105 ST-5500 gear sensor mechanism" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-07T20:38:27.570" Score="1" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHsyW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;Or any details! I know it is an older Kona bike and would like to sell, but would like to provide buyers with details. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19861" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T15:51:17.233" Title="Can anyone tell me the year of this Kona road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-07T22:10:17.573" Score="4" ViewCount="1792" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of cartridge brake pads compared to non-cartridge ones? Do they offer better braking characteristics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to replace brake pads on a 1994 MTB which has Shimano STX brakes (front) and STX-RC brakes (rear), model BR-MC33. Both are 'classic' low-profile cantilever brakes. The STX-RC brake has cartridge brake shoes (type M64/T for aluminium rims), whereas the older STX brake has non-cartridge ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stores still sell Shimano non-cartridge replacement shoes for 'classic' cantilever brakes, but the replacement inserts I need are almost nowhere to find, anymore. I wonder if it's better to replace the brake shoes completely with cartridge ones from some alternative manufacturer, or to just go with easy-to-find non-cartridge replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19862" LastEditorUserId="19862" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T16:30:42.537" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T21:43:49.903" Title="For 'classic' cantilever brakes, are cartridge brake shoes better than non-cartridge ones?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31144" CreationDate="2015-06-07T22:22:56.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I said in a comment, there are 25+ years of 105 and Ultegra (well, ultegra was called something else back then, but the line has been around for quite a while), so you need to find the right 105/Ultegra you're talking about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find the Product Info at &lt;a href=&quot;http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/1.7/ROAD/Rear%20Derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 11 speed: The Ultegra RD-6800-SS and 105 RD-5800 SS both have a 28t max. Thus, Shimano doesn't recommend you run a 30t with a short cage. The RD-6800-GS and RD-5800-GS both have a max of 32t. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 10 speed: The 105 RD-5701-SS has a 30t max. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Shimano has mucked up cable pulls between 10 and 11 speed road, so you can't just put a 10 speed RD in a 11 speed system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that also there may be several RD's under the same group under the same year or # of speeds (e.g. in the Sora case), so you need to look up the particular RD you want to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T01:54:38.660" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T01:54:38.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T05:56:04.597" Score="2" ViewCount="1023" Body="&lt;p&gt;After finishing my last two rides on my second hand bought bike, I've noticed both stanchions appear as if they are leaking oil&#xA;Could it be just WD residues or excess suspension oil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MwJEE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T02:02:54.767" Title="Fork leaking oil?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T06:18:45.537" Score="6" ViewCount="11850" Body="&lt;p&gt;During a ride I had a flat tire and used a brand new Joe's tube with sealant. &#xA;For the first time in many years of riding i was not able to pump air in. It appears that the pin inside the valve won't go in to let air flow. I've tried also with the tube out of the wheel but no luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/khixJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:51:47.080" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:51:47.080" Title="Presta valve won't let air in on a new tube" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T06:27:42.113" Score="2" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to buy brakes for a custom kick scooter. The steel tubing of the entire frame is 1&quot; in diameter. How do I know what size brakes to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19866" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T06:27:42.113" Title="Buying Brakes for custom kick scooter with 12&quot; diameter bmx wheels" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-05-16T13:46:59.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31166" CreationDate="2015-06-08T11:17:46.053" Score="6" ViewCount="912" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at quill stems I noticed this rather curious one and I couldn't imagine how it secured the handlebars without an apparent bolt. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=1b643cfc-b7cd-40bb-ac50-a67815dcd066&amp;amp;Enum=102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;more images&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F9a2f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6288" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T11:49:28.747" Title="How does a quill stem without a front bolt work?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31165" CreationDate="2015-06-08T11:37:17.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 10 o'clock there is a wedge that holds the handlebar. Taking off the plastic cap at the end of the stem reveals the bolts for tightening the stem and handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8656" LastEditorUserId="8656" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T11:49:28.747" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T11:49:28.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T13:05:52.627" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was pedaling my bike, the bike has never been used and sat in the garage through winter. While I was pedaling I switched gears and adjusted the pressure I needed to pedal (don't know what this is called) and the chain slipped and when I pedal now it makes  like a scratching noise and the chain doesn't move. I've put the chain back on multiple times but if I pedal a few  times it happens again I'm 17 and know nothing about bikes. Any help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19876" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T14:27:26.717" Title="Chain keeps slipping" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T13:39:47.863" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering upgrading from a 9-speed, 12-26 cassette on a 2006 Lemond Alpe D'Huez.  I have a triple front chairing with a Shimano 105 groupset, with one exception - an Ultegra rear derailleur.  Can I do this by changing both derailleurs, the chain, the cassette, and the hub on my existing rear wheel?  I have a lot of hills in my area, which is why I'm looking into possibly a 10 speed, 12-30.  Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19877" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T13:39:47.863" Title="Considering Cassette Upgrade" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-06-10T12:22:47.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31167" CreationDate="2015-06-08T14:27:26.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your derailleur needs adjustment.  Watch this video &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/2j1gSwhsVN8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and if you think you can follow those steps, try it.  Otherwise bring your bike to a bike shop and let them do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T14:27:26.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31154" CreationDate="2015-06-08T15:31:38.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2003&amp;amp;brand=Kona&amp;amp;model=Kona&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2003 Kona Kona&lt;/a&gt; to me.  Kona made the Kona until 2005 and then in 2006 they started the Zing line.  It's a very standard entry level &quot;bike shop&quot; road bike.  Assuming a lot of parts swap hasn't happened, that page should have most of the info.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T15:31:38.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31160" CreationDate="2015-06-08T18:52:25.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't already done so, I would try tightening it back up all the way, then unscrew it again, just to see if that loosens it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had something similar happen a while back while using a CO2 canister. Couldn't get the thingamajig to press in, so after trying to manually press it in with my thumb, I then tried pushing on it with the side of the CO2 canister at which point it simply snapped off. Then it wouldn't hold any air and I had to walk about 2 k in bike shoes to a LBS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11416" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T18:52:25.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T22:34:22.953" Score="1" ViewCount="1357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pretty new to bicycle maintenance.  I've replaced brake cables, and patched tubes, but not much else.  This week my plan was to clean up my back hub, because the wheel hadn't been turning as smoothly as it should.  It felt like I was riding with my brakes on, and I couldn't find anything else wrong with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I removed the skewer, the axle came out with it, and the bearings started falling out.  This was completely unexpected, since it didn't happen the last time I took removed the skewer, and I hadn't ridden since then.  At this point, I'm not sure how to approach the issue.  So, here is what I'm asking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the best way to tell whether the hub or axle is damaged?&#xA;** Edit:  The axle is broken.  I didn't notice before, but when I went to take pictures, I could see it.  (Pictures didn't take well, though)  Should I assume there is other damage to the hub that I haven't noticed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I be able to repack the hub with new bearings, or do I need to replace the cartridges entirely?&#xA;** Edit:  At this point, it looks like I should replace the whole wheel, as suggested.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can tell that the skewer is slightly bent, and I think that is why it pulled the axle out, but the axle shouldn't have been that loose.  I'm guessing that the damage to the skewer was done when I had trouble putting the wheel back on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This same issue happened to this bike five years ago, and a shop repaired it, but my deal with that shop has long since expired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19888" LastEditorUserId="19888" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T00:19:56.310" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T20:05:40.580" Title="How can I tell where the damage is in the hub?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-09T00:34:50.580" Score="2" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride an inexpensive Trek modified mountain bike and I spend some of my ride on the road and some on the canal, which of course is rather flat. Sometimes at the mid point of my ride I will decide to get off the canal and get onto road with lots of hills. Obviously the mountain bike is not made for this however I enjoy that challenge. Right now I am looking at the Crux Elite EVO. Would that be a good choice, is it worth the money and how much faster would I be on it? Or road bike??? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19891" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T13:16:44.393" Title="Mountain Biker wanting to change to cyclo or road? Which one?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-06-10T12:24:57.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31149" CreationDate="2015-06-09T00:39:33.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I guess there are two parts, cause and how to fix it, so first causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No rim tape - sometimes new bikes won't have rim tape, and the tube can get slightly cut on spoke holes, if you don't have rim tape, put some in, it will save you in the long run&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rim has something sharp on it - rarely you might find that a rim has a little bit of metal sticking out that causes a puncture, generally this isn't a problem if you use rim tape.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tube incorrectly installed - make sure that when you put the tube in that you pump it up a tiny bit, and move the tyre left and right and go round the whole rim like that(making sure that you can't see the tube), it will stop you getting the tube squished in between the tyre and the rim. If your tube isn't distributed evenly around the tyre you can also get a similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tyre has something poking through or a cut - When you change the tyre run your fingers around the inside of the tyre, often there is something poking through, also inspect the inside and outside of the tyre, often there is a small cut, even a tiny cut will cause a road bike tube to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Incorrect pressure - If your pressure is too low you are likely to get pinch flats, and if it is too high you are likely to get random failures. Make sure you check the recommended pressure on the side of the tyre. Pinch flats can in their worst case cut through the tyre as well, so if your tyres are low pump them up!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cheap tyres - I have had quite a few tyres of different qualities, and it always seems that the cheap ones get some kind of cut in them quite quickly, but the mid range ones don't tend to get this. This mainly is appropriate to road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tube Installation damage - You hear about people that damage the tube when installing them sometimes, just make sure that when you are installing the tyre the tube isn't between your tyre and the rim! &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention if you had a road bike or a mountain bike, but road bikes tend to cause a lot more problems with punctures, purely because the higher pressure will show up any installation problems and they will get flat quicker (or atleast flat enough to get a pinch flat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to fix it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days I don't bother repairing tubes, it quickly becomes a frustrating exercise, and in the end you don't want to be 30kms away from home with a leaky tube. If I got 1 flat I would replace the tube, and if I get another flat after that I would replace the tyre and tube. It seems really over the top, but it is very easy to put in 3 tubes into a tyre that has some kind of almost invisible nick in it, and it is cheaper to have just bought a new tyre and tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess for me it is more valuable to have a bike that will just work when I get out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have read all that, you might want to have a read of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's guide to flats&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19802" LastEditorUserId="19802" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T02:32:26.217" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T02:32:26.217" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31176" CreationDate="2015-06-09T00:50:18.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a hardtail mountain bike for a few years, and used it for all kinds of rides -- singletrack, rail trails, roads.  A few months ago I got a cyclocross bike (Norco Threshold) in addition to the mountain bike.  So I'm in pretty much exactly the situation you describe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am enjoying the cyclocross bike and I feel like it's made me about 3-4mph faster.  I am surprised that I like the drop handlebars better (more comfortable) than the straight handlebars on the mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already had a set of slick tires for the mountain bike that I installed for road rides, and switched back to knobby tires for singletrack rides.  If I only had knobby tires, the speed difference would probably be even greater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Specialized Crux that you're considering seems like a pretty good choice.  It has 38mm tires out of the box, which is nice especially since you're used to mountain bike tires.  Tires of that size have a much less harsh ride than thinner tires (28mm), and don't slow you down (people used to think that, but research has shown that it's not the case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things to consider about that bike: The brakes are cable/hydraulic hybrids; there is a brake cable that connects to a hydraulic piston.  I'm not sure if those are as good as regular hydraulic brakes; there is probably a bit of friction in the cable.  The other thing is the gearing: for hills you might want an 11-32T cassette instead of the 11-28T.  Depends on how strong you are and how steep the hills are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you care about riding in the winter, go to a Specialized dealer and ask if you can install fenders on that bike, and what size tires will work with fenders.  To attach fenders, you generally need eyelets (threaded holes in the frame). If the frame doesn't have any of those, it makes it very difficult to mount fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastEditorUserId="18520" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T01:30:25.840" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T01:30:25.840" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31155" CreationDate="2015-06-09T01:45:48.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's little difference between the two types as far as braking performance is concerned, as you can easily find the same pad compound in both types. I've been able to easily find Salmon Kool Stop brake shoes that fit the vintage Mafac brakes on my Peugeot 12 speed. That being said, the one issue you may run into is the lack of the correct inserts, which might be the case for your brakes. Even if you are able to find them, you may not have much variety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, you should use the non-cartridge pads. They're easier to find, relatively inexpensive and should offer you a wide selection. As a side note, you don't need to buy Shimano replacement pads. All that matters is how the brake pads fit into the brake arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19892" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T01:45:48.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-09T04:10:06.057" Score="2" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a 160mm disc rotor on a road bike that was rubbing a bit in one spot, not severely, but enough for me to notice.  I've tried to true it a few times over the past couple months with little improvement.  I finally ordered a new rotor (sram centerline) and noticed it's also touching the pad, possibly more so than the old, but it sounds better under hard braking oddly enough.  I checked the new rotor before I put it on and it was straight.  I'm wondering if my hub is just imperfect and that's whats causing the alignment issue.  Is this common and if so is there a fix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T23:35:44.263" Title="Can an imperfect hub make a disc rotor rub?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;&lt;rotor&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31176" CreationDate="2015-06-09T08:46:43.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to tell is by going to a bike shop and test riding few bikes. I had the same decision to make recently (road or CX), and after test riding, I was confident I wanted to CX. The road bike was noticeably faster, but the comfort on the CX trumped that for me, and it was still very fast (33C road tires, compact gearing). It is also running without problems on trails and gravel(as its supposed to), which is a plus as I can take tours through the woods ( as long as the trails relatively flat, eg for hikers/hourses). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the main things to consider are: do you care for off-pavement rides?&#xA;Is the pavement quality good? if there are too many bumps, road bikes can be a pain, while the thicker CX tyres will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, depending on what you prefer, you might want to ask to test ride road bikes with a relaxed geometry, that will again be more comfortable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19410" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T08:46:43.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10947" CreationDate="2015-06-09T09:30:08.300" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old thread but I thought I'd answer it anyway! I own one of these but did a lot of reading around the subject of helmets before my purchase and even then I deliberated for over a year! During that time they released version 2 of their Hovding which is lighter and more comfortable (according to their website). The price has also dropped to £250. I figured a company that is updating its product is a good thing and finally bought it - I've been happy with it. If you use it as intended (i.e. urban cycling) it makes a lot of sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of their claims, they are backed up by a reputable insurance company called Folksam that did their own testing. It is true that you cannot compare the Hovding to the traditional helmet drop test because it inflates prior to impact whereas a helmet can be placed on a dummy head. However, their main point is that traditional drop tests allow a large amount of impact to transfer to the wearer. The difference with the airbag is that it absorbs the impact so that 3 or 4 times less impact goes to the wearer. It also protects from all ngles whereas the helmet is only tested for the crown (very top). In reality, according to independent research I think it was the occiput that impacted most commonly (back of head).&#xA;There are some 'real' world examples of the hovding collar inflating when stunt riders have purposefully set it off and it does seem to inflate and protect the head (and perhaps neck) as it should, but it also seems to hard to set it off accidentally - which I know is a worry when you first get the thing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have ridden with it for only a few days but doing things like tying laces, getting on and off bike, running up stairs with it (I have a folding bike) haven't caused any mishaps. As you probably know they did about 7 years of research before creating version 1 of the helmet and collected a library of normal and abnormal movements. The likelihood of a false activation is pretty slim unless you are doing something very unusual / outside of the usual movements a cyclist makes, and this includes bunny hops, stairs, harsh acceleration / braking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember the same anxiety when cars introduced air bags and the same discussion, but they proved to be safe - and now you wouldn't be happy to have a car without air bags - perhaps one day it will be the same for cycle helmets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19897" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T09:30:08.300" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25235" CreationDate="2015-06-09T11:27:58.857" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For fixed, single speed and hub gears belt drives are great, if slightly more expensive initially.  They don't work with derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key difference is that as chains wear they also wear the sprockets and chainrings and therefore all need replacing if you leave it too long or don't lubricate often enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belt drives are used in many applications which are harsher and less maintainable than bike drivetrains - 70k Miles @ 3000 RPM for a car cambelt should give you confidence to fit and forget a belt on a bike. Also used on big motorbikes (Harley, Yamaha, Buell) as a chain replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shaft drive is too inefficient and heavy for practical use on a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have both chain and belt drives on different bikes - they do different things but are both fit for their respective purposes. The chain needs lubricating frequently and replacing from time to time. And the belt-drive simply doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19233" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T11:27:58.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31176" CreationDate="2015-06-09T13:16:44.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also look at touring bikes.  Road and CX bikes are made for racing. Which means they have a quite aggressive fit which makes you lean over the handlebars quite a bit.  Touring bikes are much more laid back and comfortable, while still being very efficient. They have room for racks, fenders, and big tires which can be nice for riding in the city.  If the bike show you're dealing with focuses on the Specialized brand, then take a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/ca/en/bikes/road/awol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Awol&lt;/a&gt;.  If you are happy with Trek, then look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en/bikes/road/touring/520/520/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;520&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T13:16:44.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31188" CreationDate="2015-06-09T13:22:17.117" Score="9" ViewCount="1791" Body="&lt;p&gt;In light of Bradley Wiggins' recent hour record of 54.526km, I heard a lot about how Chris Boardman has the absolute record of 56.375km. What I didn't hear and (hence my question) what I want to know is exactly what features in Boardman's (now illegal) bike enabled him to cycle further in the hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All reports of the event just explained it as 'technical differences and riding positions.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone break it down into a decent explanation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17252" LastEditorUserId="17252" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T15:42:02.223" LastActivityDate="2021-05-08T00:02:44.520" Title="Why exactly did Boardman manage a further distance than Wiggins?" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31187" CreationDate="2015-06-09T13:44:38.880" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boardman used what is known as the &quot;Superman&quot; position, as shown in this image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oi29.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Boardman in the Superman Position&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This position has been deemed to be against the rules by the UCI.  Compare it to the position that Wiggins had on the bike, shown here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrRTG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wiggins&amp;#39; Bike Position For Hour Record&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His arms are not as outstretched, and therefore it is not as aerodynamic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The superman position was first used in the hour record attempt by Graeme Obree as shown here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R6zLG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Graeme Obree in Superman Position&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's been a large history and debate over what the rules should be. If you are interested, you should watch &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0472268/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Flying Scotsman&lt;/a&gt; which is about Graeme Obree's run in with the UCI and regulations.  It seems there is even some controversy over &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theguardian.com/sport/2015/jun/09/bradley-wiggins-team-rebut-rule-bending-accusations-hour-record&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bradly Wiggins'&lt;/a&gt; record, as he used custom made 3D printed handlebars when breaking the record.  As per UCI rules, all parts must be production and commercially available. Apparently they do have 3D printed bars commercially available, but they are all one-off and have to be customed ordered to fit the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T13:44:38.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31181" CreationDate="2015-06-09T14:08:27.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a number of issues but I doubt you got a bad hub. Check to make sure your wheel is seated correctly in the fork. You could also try tightening/loosening the skewer to see if that may help align things. If all that doesn't work then you can try to realign the caliper if necessary. I wouldn't worry much if its just a little rub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8771" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T14:08:27.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29618" CreationDate="2015-06-09T14:48:37.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your only risk for a bad ride is a storm from the south/south east. &#xA;If there is a storm, you might consider using the train instead of going by bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a rather direct route, called 'Rotterdamseweg' on the Delft end of the route and it changes name to Delftweg when getting beyond half way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use Google maps, you can get the bike lanes on top of the usual map, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/maps/@51.96619,4.3857601,16z/data=!5m1!1e3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; should show them. If you do not get the bike lanes, select bike as mode of transport and click on showing bike lanes or 'Fietspaden tonen' if you have the Dutch version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use the cycle nodes, 'knooppunten netwerk' in Dutch, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietseropuit.nl/fietsroute/zuid_m_holland/delft/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; will tell you which numbers to loop out for, allowing you to get the route address to address. The system works with small signs with a number on each corner. You follow that number till you reach it and then you follow the next number on your list. The routes it uses are mostly nicer to use than the direct bike lanes but it might lengthen your trip from 15 to 20 km. Which is still not much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most countries maybe a funny instruction, but in the Netherlands this can be a problem.&#xA;If you set off in commuter time, you may find so many cyclists on the paths that you may feel insecure. In that case, wait a few minutes. Most of the time the cyclists come in bunches, regulated by traffic lights earlier on in their trip, when the bunch has past the path will be almost empty. You can also decide to start a bit later. In summer, some paths are so popular that they are busy all the day, but most of the time they are less full than in the morning peak hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While all routes are sign posted, you may want to have a good map, specially to get out of the one city and into the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T14:48:37.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31806" CreationDate="2015-06-09T14:54:16.807" Score="1" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1987 Schwinn Tempo with 32h Maillard &quot;Sealed mechanism&quot; hubs. (I'm still confused about that phrase, maybe it's a bad translation? They're completely unsealed cup-cone hubs). The axle is slightly bent near the drive side, and maybe it's distended or maybe just the axle, but the cone no longer fits flush. I can still adjust it to spin freely and with no axle play, but the freewheel and rim wobble. I am looking for either an axle or a donor hub I can take the cup from. What is the thread diameter of these axles? Wheels Mfg has nice looking rear axles which are advertised as &quot;Shimano/ fits most japanese hubs&quot; or &quot;Fits most Taiwanese hubs&quot;, and ebay has a plethora of 36h hubs of the same vintage which look extremely similar. Would I be able to use the cones and axles from 36h hubs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKRVD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1987 Schwinn Tempo Maillard Rear hub&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15722" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T16:03:36.493" Title="1987 Schwinn Tempo Maillard hub rear axle" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;axle&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31201" CreationDate="2015-06-09T15:42:13.290" Score="2" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridingfeelsgood.com/suspension-linkage-kinematics-basics-anti-squat-pedal-kickback/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an article on full suspension bikes&lt;/a&gt;, explaining &lt;code&gt;antisquat&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;pedal kickback&lt;/code&gt;. They say the bicycle is the only vehicle, where the gear affects the suspension characteristics. This is great, they continue, because the kinematics can be made so that in some gears of the front chainrings the cranks and rear axle are isolated, while in others pedalling &lt;em&gt;blocks&lt;/em&gt; the suspension travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, because some people are commenting that the article is grossly incorrect, I would like an opinion on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, as every mountain biker looking to spend some bucks knows, the fuzz is Enduro now. And 1x10 or 1x11 drivetrain. If the article is correct, this setup is robbing FS bikes of a lot of their potential. How come no one is raising the alarm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T15:49:11.923" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T20:01:11.320" Title="Is this article accurate? If so, why is the hype about loosing the FD on enduro bikes?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31447" CreationDate="2015-06-09T16:08:31.947" Score="6" ViewCount="2779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are about a million questions on here about creaking while pedaling, but I haven't seen one that relates...apologies if I missed one. I bought a 2011 BMC Streetracer SR02 last year; shortly after I got it I removed the Shimano 105 it had previously, and replaced them with a mix of SRAM Rival and Red (Rival shifters and derailleurs, 2012 Red GXP crank). Since I got the bike last February, I've put about 6k miles on it (both the chain and cassette were replaced ~2 weeks ago).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little over a month ago, I started noticing a creaking/clicking when pedaling, typically beginning when I was about 3 miles into a ride. Nothing was changed on the bike before it started. The creaking occurs about once per pedal revolution (around 6 o'clock on both sides) and stops when I get out of the saddle. It occurs regardless whether my hands are on the bars. I've worked on the bike myself and taken it to my LBS, but we're both running low on ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All the chainring bolts were replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BB was swapped out with a new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red crankset was removed, regreased and re-installed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red crankset was swapped out for a non-creaky 105 crankset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedals were swapped out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain and cassette were replaced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle was swapped out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seatpost was cleaned/greased.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seatpost was swapped out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheelset was swapped out for a newer one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset was removed, inspected and cleaned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottle cage bolts tightened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front derailleur braze-on bolt checked/torqued.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear derailleur hanger screws checked/torqued.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheel skewers swapped out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaced the headset cartridges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yet, the creaking continues. At this point, I feel like I'm pretty much out of ideas (short of calling a priest...). I'm almost positive it's coming from the BB area, but I also know the sound could be coming from anywhere in the bike, given all the tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the frame? How would I check to see if it's the frame, rather than one of the components? Any thing else I could be missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I had a chance to play around with the creakiness when I rode last night (with different skewers in the wheels). It seems like the source of the issue is somewhere in the cockpit area. If I don't have my hands on the bars, the creaking is no different than when I have both hands on the bars. However, it seems that if I put one hand on the bars and shift my weight to that side, the creaking seems shift to that side as well. When I got back from the ride, I put a layer of grease on the part of the stem that attaches to the bars, and I'll check if that made a difference on a ride later today. I'm not sure that will be it, but that would make it easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Finally fixed! Following a group ride last week, we looked over the bike in a last ditch effort to solve the creaking. Things seemed in order, but the mechanic greased the seatpost clamp and the bolt attaching the front brake to the frame. He also noticed that the stem bolts (where it attaches to the fork) were stripped. Following the greasing, I briefly rode the bike, with no change in creaking. The next day I replaced the stem with a newer one and went for a ride. The creaking persisted at the beginning of the ride, but disappeared partway through the ride after an extended climb out of the saddle. &gt;170 miles later and the creaking hasn't returned. I'm not sure which of the last three solutions finally did it (greasing the seatpost clamp, the front brake bolt or the stem) or whether the grease just needed more time to filter in, but I'll take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully no one runs into this issue in the future, but if they do, I hope this saves them the trip down the rabbit hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11045" LastEditorUserId="11045" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T18:07:18.717" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T18:08:51.053" Title="Creaking when in the saddle" Tags="&lt;noise&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;creak&gt;&lt;clicking&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31193" CreationDate="2015-06-09T16:33:15.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creaking when only in the saddle - I would check the saddle? A drop of oil into the where the saddle rails fix to the seat can alleviate.&#xA;But if you are sure it is not this - then perhaps try isolating the noise by using the bike on a static trainer and pedalling. If you remove the chain from engaging with the chainset - it would isolate the noise to the chainset / BB only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16979" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T16:33:15.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31193" CreationDate="2015-06-09T16:45:26.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I don't directly see mentioned that I have done is put a thin layer of grease on the crank spindle where it contacts the bearings. This cured the creaking issues that I had on a previous bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if you switched the skewers when you tried switching out the wheelset, but I have also heard of skewers causing weird creaks. The only other thing I have had problems with was fork/headset creaking but if you are convinced its coming from the BB it may not be worth looking at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8771" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T16:45:26.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35209" CreationDate="2015-06-09T17:29:09.073" Score="7" ViewCount="3044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm restoring a 1980 DBS Winner bicycle, and I'm having trouble wiring the dynamo to the headlight and taillight. As a disclaimer, I know very little about electricity and wiring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dynamo has two outputs on the bottom, one is labeled &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; and the other is labeled &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt;. There's a wire between the &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; and the headlight. From &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt;, however, a wire goes directly to the frame itself (screwed-ish to the head tube). Below the crank is a similar screw-ish contraption, from which a wire goes to the taillight. I'm thinking the current is lead between these contraptions, via the steel frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the lights work when the dynamo is on. I tested the bulbs with a battery, they work. I've tested the dynamo output with a voltmeter, and it seems to work. I also tried connecting the wire from &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt; to the side of the bulb in the headlight and the wire from &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; to the bottom of the bulb, which worked when the dynamo was on. Do both the taillight and the headlight need two wires each? I find it strange if that is the case, since the bike came with one wire to each light, and it's weird to remove only one wire from each for whatever reason, isn't it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Added some images.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e20iS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The dynamo. The Red output is marked B, the white one is mar&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/07vah.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The screw-thing on the head tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqzWq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The screw-thing under the crank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19902" LastEditorUserId="19902" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T17:40:42.427" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T23:37:18.317" Title="Bottle dynamo wiring a headlight and taillight on 1980s bike" Tags="&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;taillight&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="307" CreationDate="2015-06-09T19:58:14.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have various bikes (recumbents and foldable bikes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my 'bents uses 4 panniers (2 under seat and 2 on rear rack) 25-30 kg total, another 'bent uses a set of twin under seat banana style bags rated at 75 liter plus a rear rack bag, it too averages around 25-30 kg when touring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The foldables I ride with can use 4 panniers or I can use a BOB trailer. The weight distribution for 4 panniers is usually 30% front 70% rear, the trailer makes the weight much easier to haul but proves a major inconvenience when doing city travel or doing train travel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was doing flat open country then a trailer is ideal, in a city the trailer is a hassle. The use of handle bar bags is still open to me to decide as they do offer some obstruction of seeing the road surface clearly VS the handyness of getting at cameras, money, maps etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19908" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T22:20:04.220" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T22:20:04.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31192" CreationDate="2015-06-09T20:01:11.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few quick points about the article&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The author did not provide all the math and formulations so we need to take it on faith that the correct formulae were used and there are not implementation errors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The author also only considered one bike, the 2015 Giant Reign 27.5&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, the results seem reasonable to me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main take home from the article (which is well known) is that the drive train affects rear suspension performance, and that the chain angle (vertical chain line) also impacts rear suspension performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now there are a myriad of rear suspension designs, each with different characteristics and all optimized to a different set of characteristics the designing engineer considered important.  Taking an older design that was optimized for double (or even triple) chain ring set up and putting on a 1x drivetrain could have unintended performance effects as suggested by the author.  Running extra wide rear cassettes can also have an effect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be an interesting follow-up analysis would be to look the anti-squat/pedal kickback characteristics of full suspension bikes marketed with 1x drivetrains. I am sure the designing engineer knows of these problems and took a particular path to optimizing the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would also be interesting to compare the numbers from fundamentally different suspension designs (e.g., virtual pivots, Horst linkages, single suspension arms, free floating designs... the list goes on).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally we shouldn't overlook the type of shock used in the design, some are designed to mitigate peddling input and shocks designed to block out pedal bob would facilitate using a design with less anti-squat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What does it all mean?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I raise all these issues to illustrate that there is no simple single answer.  No one is &quot;raising alarm&quot; because gross generalizations are simply not possible.  There are a lot of engineering nuances that need to be considered and unfortunately cannot be summarized in a simple one-size fits all statement that might trend on twitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caveat&lt;/strong&gt; - I am neither a suspension designer or an engineer. It would be nice to hear input from someone who if officially trained and practicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T20:01:11.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28720" CreationDate="2015-06-09T21:01:36.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to connect to an unsecured WLAN with my Nyon. I updated the Nyon and tried to connect to a secured network again, but no luck! I'll try to contact Bosch support about that problem too. I see following possible workaround's in the mean time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you only need to sync your cycling data, you can use the mobile app and connect via Bluetooth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If possible with your WLAN router, enable an unsecured guest network and connect your Nyon to it. Switch off the guest network if you don't use it anymore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove security from your WLAN while you need a connection from your Nyon. Don't forget to restore security settings, as soon you are done working with your Nyon!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that as long as you run a unsecured everybody within reach of your WLAN router can access your network and listen to the traffic on this network. Best stick with mobile app/bluetooth and use unsecured WLAN only to download maps or update the Nyon software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19909" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T21:01:36.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1298" CreationDate="2015-06-10T02:34:26.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 15km commute to work and have been doing it roughly 3x per week (twice a day) for about 8 years.  Here's what I have found works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;puncture resistant tires are one of the keys -- I found that the&#xA;Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires were great and in &gt; 6000kms on 2 sets&#xA;I've experienced a single flat tire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;patch kit with a small pump&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;floor pump at home for weekly tire pressure adjustments.  I've found that tire pressure makes absolutely the biggest difference to  the time it takes me to commute to work.  I tend to run my tires at the maximum pressure recommended and refill them weekly&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pannier rack with suit bag carrier. The suit bag style carrier is ideal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't have to wear a suit at work, but generally wear a&#xA;button down and slacks &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suit bag is ideal for laying clothes flat&#xA;and getting there non-wrinkled.  Nashbar has a great one with a&#xA;lifetime guarantee &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's water resistant and in 8 years I've only&#xA;experienced a wet patch on my shirt once &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;features 2 big side pockets that I use to stow a jacket, repair kit and extra stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As far as bike goes, I've decided that all things being equal, the lower the maintenance the better.  In the last few years I have switched to a hybrid style bike with a Kevlar Belt Drive and Internally Geared Hub (IGH) with twin front/rear disk brakes. This setup means virtually zero maintenance &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with the only thing that I need to do is adjust the shifters maybe 1-2x per year (after the initial cable stretch).  The trade-off is that the bike is a bit heavier (about 30lbs) but it's much less fragile.  My bike is a Spot Ajax FWIW.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For handlebars, I have the flat hybrid style, but added bar-ends and thick grip tape across the entire bar/ends so that I have multiple hand positions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for pedals, I personally find that SPD type pedals and shoes (mountainbike style) work best for me.  I rode a set of Shimano 535 pedals for 15+ years and finally sold the bike (and couldn't remove the pedals).  I've since purchased an equivalent pedal.  I find them very reliable and much safer than flat shoes and pedals as I find I have much better control over the bike in rough conditions and better power up hill (can both pull and push with your legs).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front and rear disk brakes -- much lower maintenance and better stopping power in wet weather.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;front and rear lights are a must.  Looking forward to getting my set of Magnic Lights (Kickstarter campaign) that do not require batteries.  Battery recharging is the downside of year round riding and these new lights work without the need for a battery -- very handy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a small bell -- I find the little thumb hammer type bells work great -- lets the walkers 5 abreast across the bike path (with their poodle) know you are coming up behind them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19913" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T05:06:24.827" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T05:06:24.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31208" CreationDate="2015-06-10T12:09:30.170" Score="0" ViewCount="1548" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to update my 9 speed triple crankset at 52/42/30, and those combinations seem difficult to find when I'm also looking to upgrade. A more common teeth combination seems to be 50/39/30, but I'm wondering what else I might have to upgrade if I make this move? Or is there another combination that I'm not aware of so that I don't have to make these updates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I need a new front derailleur? (currently have Shimano Tiagra T, down pull, braze-on type w/34.9 mm clamp attachment)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And I have a 9 speed SRAM chain and 9 speed SRAM cassette. Will those need to be updated? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lastly I have 9 speed Shimano Tiagra STI Dual Controls, will those need to be updated as well?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be great. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19918" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T12:16:52.930" Title="Can I convert from a 52/42/30 crankset to 50/39/30?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31209" CreationDate="2015-06-10T12:12:36.183" Score="3" ViewCount="1298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new. I'm 26, from the UK and until last year I'd never cycled more than 10 miles before. Then in September I cycled 2700 miles from Maine to Florida. It was great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a Dawes Galaxy, I believe made in about 1997. It's got a Shimano RSX rear derailleur, 7 speed, indexed shifters. Three cogs on the front with friction shifting. Shifters are on the down tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is to buy some Shimano brifters. I was hoping to upgrade the down tube shifter into the integrated brake shifter. Could anyone give me advice on which Shimano sets would be compatible? I imagine any Shimano 3x7 would work. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would these work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-ST-3300-Sora-7-Speed-STI-Lever-/291470495079?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&amp;amp;hash=item43dcfecd67&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-ST-3300-Sora-7-Speed-STI-Lever-/291470495079?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&amp;amp;hash=item43dcfecd67&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Shimano-Sora-ST-3300-7-7-Speed-Right-Hand-Side-STI-Shifter-Brake-Lever-/281698654774?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&amp;amp;hash=item41968c5a36&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Shimano-Sora-ST-3300-7-7-Speed-Right-Hand-Side-STI-Shifter-Brake-Lever-/281698654774?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&amp;amp;hash=item41968c5a36&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other equipment I believe I'll need is: cable housing, wire, crimp tool, end caps, bar tape, cable tensioners ... What do I put in place of the current shifters, some sort of cable stop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else I would need? Anything else I need to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19917" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T00:09:45.167" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T00:09:45.167" Title="converting stem shifters to brifters" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31206" CreationDate="2015-06-10T12:16:52.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you do drive train swaps, you need to check the chain length, and the capacities and limits stated on the front and rear derailleur (look at their data sheets). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Check the data sheet for your front derailleur. It will specify the sizes of the chainrings and the teeth differences required. Almost surely it will be fine though. You'll have to fidget with the clamp position a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You'll end up shortening the chain by a few links, ideally (you can run a too long chain safely, but why bother?). The cassette doesn't need to change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) No - so long as you stay with a &amp;lt;=9 speed Shimano RD and Shimano Road FD (I believe &amp;lt;=10 speed), you're OK. The RD doesn't need to change either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside: 52/42/30 cranksets aren't uncommon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T12:16:52.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31207" CreationDate="2015-06-10T12:22:10.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy any 7 speed Shimano brifter (or compatible ones made by Microshift). The ones you link to are fine. The front derailleur needs to be Shimano road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need:&#xA;- Cable stops on the downtube&#xA;- New cables and cable housing (brake and shift)&#xA;- Probably new bar tape&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tools will be cable and housing cutters, an awl, a file and some screwdrivers/hex keys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what you mean by cable tensioners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T12:22:10.233" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-10T13:32:44.640" Score="3" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/afZc3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hello, Any info on this bicycle, it make, model and possible year. The young man was born in 1931&quot;&gt;&#xA;hello, Any info on this bicycle, it make, model and possible year. The young man was born in 1931&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19919" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T03:03:12.520" Title="30's-40's bike, make and model" Tags="&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31215" CreationDate="2015-06-10T13:51:46.217" Score="3" ViewCount="14483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride a cyclocross about 50 miles a week. About half of the mileage is spent on roads, the other half on single track trails. In the space of 3 weeks I have had the tubes pop 5 times. Once the back tube popped while riding on the road near my house. The other four occurred while the bike was hanging in my apartment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have double checked the interior and exterior of the tires for debris or objects and found none. I ensured tires were inflated to proper pressure and that the rim guard strips were in the correct place. I purchased the bike about a month ago from the neighborhood bike shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I am missing? My current hypothesis is that the tubes degraded in the shop and spring leaks due to age. If that is the case, is it proper to ask the shop to replace the tubes with new ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: August 2016&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hundreds of miles later on the same tires, rims, rim tape I have not had a single flat. I replaced the problematic tubes and tried to hold all other variables consistent. I was not able to determine the cause of the problems but it does appear the tubes that came installed from the bike shop were more brittle than expected. This could have been due to shop storage. Extended exposure to heat or light can weaken butyl tubes despite being more resilient to weathering and attack than natural rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19768" LastEditorUserId="19768" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T12:15:47.007" LastActivityDate="2017-10-10T15:51:06.070" Title="Ideas for consistently popping tubes" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31211" CreationDate="2015-06-10T14:04:28.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what you mean by &quot;popping&quot;, are you talking about literally exploding or just getting a cut/pinch/slow leak/etc? Knowing what the hole looks like could help point to some cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've had 4 flats while hanging I would guess something is cutting into the tube. I'd try a different tire or pick up a tube from somewhere else and try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8771" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T14:04:28.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31227" CreationDate="2015-06-10T14:27:03.103" Score="4" ViewCount="3725" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, 11 speed groups are great, but as everyone knows, they are old news and manufactures are constantly innovating and upgrading to sell &quot;this year's&quot; new parts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11 speed has been around for a while now and I was wondering if any of the big names are developing a 12 speed group?  Are there any freehubs that could support this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I wouldn't rush out to but one but it seems inevitable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T22:18:47.527" Title="Is any major manufacturer working on a 12 speed group?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;groupsets&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31213" CreationDate="2015-06-10T15:29:30.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without any inside information into the R&amp;amp;D efforts of Shimano, SRAM or Campagnolo, it's pure speculation at best. I assume that they are looking at the idea of 12-speed, but it'll probably be close to 10 years until we see it (9 to 10 speed took ~7 years; 10 to 11 speed took ~9 years), especially with all the focus on electronic gruppos at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same answer in regards to the freewheel standards...it's impossible to say, since 12 speed hasn't even come out yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: it's hard to know for sure, but it's believable that they (the big three) would be developing 12 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11045" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T15:29:30.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31211" CreationDate="2015-06-10T15:31:14.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had tire busts when I used tubes that were pre-filled with Slime: they burst within an hour to a day of installing them. When I switched to standard tubes and then added Stans No Flats liquid they were fine. This happened twice to me: very strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always use Stans in my wheels: either MTB tubeless or commuting/road bike tubed. Is a bit of a hassle with Schraeder tubes because the tubes with removable valve cores are not so common (altho Continental sells). But I use a syringe and a tube to &quot;inject&quot; 50ml of Stans into the tubes: helps a lot with flats (although won't solve this issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you using really light tubes? I've found them more likely to cause problems if your rim/tire combination isn't exactly right. Also check that your tubes really are the right size for your tires: not just the diameter but the width. It might be worth spending a bit more and getting better quality tubes next time: I've found Continental good, and they offer a big range of tubes. Maybe you're using big fat cyclocross tires and tubes mean't for a road tire. They all fit, but will be much more stretched, and more likely to fail, especially if the rubber is not good quality and tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you install the tubes, are you maybe pinching them? I partially inflate them and try to install just using my thumbs. Then I go around the wheel and roll the tire back and forth with my fingers and make sure the tube is not trapped under the bead: check both sides. Then I pump it up to max and possibly deflate it a bit if I don't ride it at max pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt it's your tires, but try taking them off and running your fingers around the inside: you can feel problems better than see them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also doubt it's your rim tape, but I often add a layer or two of electrical tape over it: especially if I am using high pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nothing is wrong in particular, I bet you can solve it by using better quality tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18618" LastEditorUserId="18618" LastEditDate="2017-10-10T15:51:06.070" LastActivityDate="2017-10-10T15:51:06.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31211" CreationDate="2015-06-10T15:58:40.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have holes coming up all over the place on two tubes and then bad tubes is a likely cause.  Stop patching the tube and put in some new tubes.  If the new tubes pop then look for the cause.  Always match up the hole to the tire / rim and see if you can find a cause.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have a case of bad tubes installed by the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best use of a patch is to just get you home.  A patch is not as strong as a tube and will not last as long.  The glue will dry out.  For $6 it is worth a new tube as failed patch is a flat tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a beater bike that I only use in the neighborhood.  I use only patch tubes on that bike.   I save up tubes and just patch 4 at a time.  I will use a patched tube if I don't have a new.  Another trick is if the hole is too big to patch then save the valve core and cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T15:58:40.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31193" CreationDate="2015-06-10T16:50:03.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow this sounds like a beast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it seems like you've pretty much overhauled or replaced everything on the bike, I would guess that it's one of these two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your frame might be developing a crack. I would inspect the BB area for a hairline crack. And I would try pulling (with my hands) on the cranks to try to replicate the sound in a controlled environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could have something to do with your clothing. Shoes, maybe? Just a crazy guess, 'cause it sounds like you've tried everything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T16:50:03.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-10T17:21:12.820" Score="3" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I get information on the various different types of threads used in bike pedals as each manufacture has its own specifications? Different manufactures of pedals have different threads and I need the design and specification for the pedals to not strip the threads, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19923" LastEditorUserId="7107" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T22:53:15.987" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T22:53:15.987" Title="bicycle pedal design specifications for threads" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31219" CreationDate="2015-06-10T17:54:04.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just about all pedals for bicycles will use the same threads. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/pedals.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon brown&lt;/a&gt; the standard size is 9/16&quot; x 20 tpi threads. One piece &quot;American&quot; cranks use 1/2&quot; x 20 tpi threads, but these are only found on low end bikes and children's bikes.  There's been a couple other sizes used in the past, but almost all modern bicycles will use the two above sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that the left hand pedal uses a reverse (counter-clockwise) thread to prevent it from loosening on it's own when pedaling.  The right hand pedal uses a standard (clockwise) thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T18:03:11.997" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T18:03:11.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31181" CreationDate="2015-06-10T18:24:50.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried adjusting it at the caliper ,just dial it back a notch or maybe two ,but make sure your brakes are still effective when you do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19903" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T18:24:50.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31175" CreationDate="2015-06-10T18:49:44.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi you say this is the second time it has happened , did the axle snap/break on the previous occasion ? is it a mountain bike ? does it take a bit of hammering ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if the they are cartridge bearings ,you shouldn't need a new wheel ,just a couple of new cartridge bearings ,and an axle . just take what's left of the bearing cases , get a ruler , measure inner ,outer and width , you''ll probably get a couple new for a fiver on e bay, then measure the length of the axle ,if you can source the specs for the bike , even better ,should state it. then the thickness of the axle(9,9.5,10 mm ),you might have to buy an old school axle with cones, but you can just use the axle ,stick it all back together. good as new .  fixed for under a tenner  . p.s if it is taking a lot of stress ,go for a solid axle over quick release,plus you have the added bonus of your wheels not getting nicked if the thief hasn't brought a spanner he he &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19903" LastEditorUserId="19903" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T19:00:12.807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T19:00:12.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31229" CreationDate="2015-06-10T19:25:18.883" Score="11" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have what seems like a really simple question, and yet I didn't manage to find the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do track races require fixed-gear bicycles, as opposed to single-speed freewheeled bicycles? Is it purely for traditional/historical reasons, or is there any good reason for that requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T14:55:02.300" Title="Why fixed-gear for track racing?" Tags="&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31230" CreationDate="2015-06-10T19:28:05.277" Score="6" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the wake of the seemingly renewed post-race examinations for 'mechanical doping' by the UCI, I was wondering if anyone has experience with the motors in question (like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vivax-assist.com/en/produkte/vivax-assist-4-0/vivax-assist_4-0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vivax Assist&lt;/a&gt; - thanks, Kibbee). More specifically, would they be able to contribute to a pro rider's effort at race pace or is there an upper limit to where they're able to contribute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think the whole mechanical doping 'issue' is rubbish, but I'm curious. Taking Cancellara's attacks during the 2010 Spring Classics as an example, at the time when he supposedly turned on the motor, he was imaginably already doing several hundred watts. Would a motor, small enough to be hidden in one of the bike tubes, even be able to contribute to that effort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the case that if I had one of these motors in my seat tube and I was riding at 300 watts, would turning on the motor bump my output up to 400 watts; or is there a point of diminishing returns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11045" LastEditorUserId="1342" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T02:30:52.837" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T02:30:52.837" Title="Validity of UCI motor concerns" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;uci&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17002" CreationDate="2015-06-10T21:07:57.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing also to consider is a minimum distance. If you are a sweater (i.e. one who sweats) a shower is a necessary part of bike commuting. If you are going to take the time to get all your gear together, pack a change of clothes, and ride your bike, 5 miles is too short. I sweat in 5 miles. My minimum distance is 10 miles, and max is 15. Anything more than that I can't sustain on a daily basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T21:07:57.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31149" CreationDate="2015-06-10T21:39:06.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be an bad valve. I had a run of flats on one bike and was sure it was something wrong in the wheel. Turns out I hadn't replaced the tubes in a long time so the tubes I installed were also old. Both failed where the stem meets the tube.  The pressure needed to be high and it took about 45mins to go flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19928" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T21:39:06.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31213" CreationDate="2015-06-10T21:43:30.523" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cannondale with it's new Boost 148mm rear spacing standard could fit some more gears theoretically without making the chain thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the real question is if more gears are actually needed. What really matters is the cassette range which is determined by the smallest and biggest cog wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we have the smallest cog with 10 teeth, and there was a 9T-36T Microdrive cassette from Canfield Brothers, but it's discontinued because the torque transfer on such small sprocket size is very inefficient. So I doubt we will see 9T as the smallest cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be a bigger cog-wheel added though, for example 44T Sprocket which OneUp already offers as a replacement for 42T one. Such 12-speed cassette would be heavy, even 11-speed cassettes are heavy. Even with 44T as the biggest sprocket I feel like 11-speeds are enough for smooth shifting transitions. I don't think 12-speeds are needed. Maybe only for marketing purposes..So it's possible some brand is secretly working on 12-speed setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Yeah so it seems the 10-42 gears are not enough so here we have the SRAM 12-speed Eagle drivetrain (rumored):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQ8Kc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQ8Kc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And shimano is not behind, there will be a 12-speed XTR too (picture from BikeRadar article - not real):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gNPzB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gNPzB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon we will wrap the chain around the tire:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What actually could be the next thing and what we know manufacturers are working on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;gearboxes: they offer more range than 3x10, the shifting is super-smooth and precise, the system is sealed against elements, it uses a silent belt and the weight is in the right place and not on the wheel. The downsides are now big weight (only metal no-one making it carbon-fibre) and big cost. Both these negatives have huge room for improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h1cni.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;hydraulic shifting: we see this already on road bikes and on some mtb. Easier and more precise shifting. Could be the same revolution as with hydraulic brakes. The cost is high because of low volume production now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3jq7.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;electronic shifting: we see this already on road bikes and on some mtb. Shimano Di2 is an example. Faster more precise shifting but more weight and battery dependance. We see also some electronics in suspension now, bluetooth sensors, bikes are getting more battery tech:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ssih9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is hopefully what will come in near future to the mainstream. It will change the game and shifting so much, that I think we won't look on shifting the same. Thinking about 12-speed cassette might be the same thing as thinking about larger rim-brakes when disc brakes debuted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19624" LastEditorUserId="19624" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T21:05:04.320" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T21:05:04.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31155" CreationDate="2015-06-10T21:43:49.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally use the cartridge brakes because I they are easier to replace. Just pull the cotter pin and slide out the old one, slide in the new one, replace the cotter pin and you are done. Don't have to re-setup the brakes. Another plus is the spares take up less space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get various compounds with each type.  The non-cartridge type have more material so can last longer.  I have found the usually the OEM ones are too hard for my liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are ok with changing pads more often give them a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19928" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T21:43:49.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31223" CreationDate="2015-06-10T23:30:15.877" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of mystique grows up around the regulation of many sports. The key (as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neo_%28The_Matrix%29&quot;&gt;Neo&lt;/a&gt; says) is to get to the source ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UCI regulations&lt;/strong&gt; say &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Section 2: bicycles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preamble&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bicycles  shall  comply  with  the  spirit  and  principle  of  cycling  as  a  sport.  The  spirit &#xA;  presupposes  that cyclists  will  compete  in  competitions  on  an  equal  footing.  The  principle asserts the primacy of man over machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.3.025&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Freewheels, multiple gears and brakes are not permitted for use on the track during competition or training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/26/49/1-GEN-20141101-E_English.pdf&quot;&gt;UCI CYCLING REGULATIONS GENERAL ORGANISATION OF CYCLING AS A SPORT PART 1 GENERAL ORGANISATION OF CYCLING AS A SPORT&lt;/a&gt; (pdf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason behind this rule is safety. Crashes are, and always have been, common in track racing. Anything that can drop onto the track is forbidden. Freewheels and gears can drop oil, or otherwise fail, causing a crash. Gears (currently) always have some loopy control cable that could entangle another competitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes are unnecessary because of the closed environment and the use of fixed wheels. Levers and cables can fail, and brake blocks can come out. In any case they would add weight to the bike, which would cost time in sprints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in general it's all about minimising equipment failure possibilities, and maximising the competitor vs competitor aspect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T23:36:22.490" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T23:36:22.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31224" CreationDate="2015-06-11T00:19:26.917" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as assisting at race pace - a cadence of 90 or 100 is not a limit for an electric motor designed for it. With the dollars involved in cycling generally, and at elite sports specifically, I do not see any barrier from an electromechanical perspective. Most importantly for an elite rider, the motor can be optimised for a cadence between  85-95 - a very small range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be less concerned about a 200W Assist over a short time, as it would be rather obvious, than a net (factoring in extra weight) 20W or 50W assist over the duration of a tour. Imagine if you could give a rider a drug  that instantly gave them and extra 10% output over an entire tour? This motor could be small and hard to detect. Its heat signature would be tiny. A physical bicycle inspection would be needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current battery technology limits the capacity available without obvious signs - physical size but also the weight would make the bike move differently to normal. I am sure an experienced observer would spot it. However, research into battery technology is progressing very quickly. Its foreseeable within a year or two batteries with 10x capacity for no weight or size gain will be possible. recharge times are plummeting to measurements in minute to full charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So should they be worried Absolutely- today I think the risk of you or me doing something and being caught is high, the hardware is too big and bulky and obvious. A simple weight test of the top riders bikes would suffice. However the dollars involved at the highest level, and the scale and length of time the cover ups and secrecy around Lance Armstrong's drug use were able to continue do not preclude a team spending a large amount of money  into secret commercialisation of research results.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within 10 years, I believe the average road or MTB will have an electric assist option as it filters up from the commuter/casual market into main stream.  From there, its a tiny step into the race scene. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T00:19:26.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-11T03:13:32.117" Score="1" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep changing my tube. It get's a hole right near the base of the valve. I've checked the rim, there's nothing sharp. there's nothing sharp in the tire (the hole's on the inside anyhow). and it always happens while just sitting in my garage not while riding and bumping into rocks or such. all of a sudden from what I cannot determine you hear a hissing sound as air starts escaping. The tube was pumped with ~75 psi about 2 weeks ago, and the tire says max 80, min 50. the rim tape is intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please suggest what could be causing these flat tires, why is there a delay from when I stop riding it and 8 hours later between getting a flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19931" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:21:38.837" Title="Flat tire keeps occurring while bike is stationary. MYSTERY" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-11T03:48:48.420" Score="2" ViewCount="7302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to fix my wife's bicycle which sat out all winter.  I can't get the rear derailleur to downshift from the twist grip shifter.  I have inspected and cleaned and lubricated the cables, nothing is frayed or stuck.  I can move the derailleur with my thumb quite easily, and if I hold it I can move the shifter.  I can also upshift, but I can't get the derailleur to downshift from the shifter.  Any ideas?  It's a Shimano system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19933" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2019-01-27T15:55:53.753" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T15:55:53.753" Title="Can't downshift rear derailleur" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31224" CreationDate="2015-06-11T08:40:45.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The motor doesn’t have to contribute to upper limit riding. Click the motor on and spend the first half of the race freewheeling at 200W and save your legs. Throw in a change of bike then you can save weight for when you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The focus seems to be on GC riders using this technology for direct benefit, but the GC rider could benefit from having a domestique using a motor to save their legs for the next days stage. If you’re on a mountain stage and have an extra rider then you have an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example is sprinters. They are generally bad at getting over the mountains for two reasons – one is fast twitch muscles, and the other is saving their legs for the next day. Pop in a motor and they can have an easier day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also an issue over the ethics and whether riders can justify using them. I don’t doubt they can – we already see magic spanners, and sticky bottles used in races, so why not a motor. Personally I think the UCI knows more about it than they are telling us&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19935" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T08:40:45.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31237" CreationDate="2015-06-11T09:26:37.497" Score="11" ViewCount="1987" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I'm in the UK so we drive on the left)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This morning a driver pulled up alongside me (to my right) at a junction. As soon as a gap came available, I pulled out to turn left and he did the same, coming within a couple of feet of me as we turned. I verbally objected (what the ..?). He confronted me a little further down the road, and insisted he was &quot;perfectly entitled&quot; to turn left around a cyclist who is also turning left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? This was from a single lane road, turning into another single lane road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7581" LastEditorUserId="19939" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T13:51:27.150" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T15:17:32.820" Title="Is a car &quot;perfectly entitled&quot; to turn left around cyclist" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;uk&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31236" CreationDate="2015-06-11T11:09:30.500" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The UK Highwaycode states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Using the road: Turning left &#xA;  Rule 182&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use your mirrors and give a left-turn signal well before you turn&#xA;  left. Do not overtake just before you turn left and watch out for&#xA;  traffic coming up on your left before you make the turn, especially if&#xA;  driving a large vehicle. Cyclists, motorcyclists and other road users&#xA;  in particular may be hidden from your view&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems quite clear to me that the driver should not have pulled up to the right of you, which is essentially an overtaking manoeuvre, if he intended to turn left, no matter what you were planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T11:09:30.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-11T16:24:02.333" Score="1" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 1997 Trek 1220 that I picked up relatively cheaply.  When purchased, it was freshly tuned with new cables brake pads, chain, cassette, and also with a new wheelset.  The cassette had been upgraded to an 8spd (11-27) from the original 7.  The STI shifters were gone ... replaced with (ick) stem shifters ... the one thing I really don't like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, I've ridden it about 2k miles, replaced the cassette and chain once, and went to some larger chainrings. The front triple was 26/36/46 stock.  I found I was often riding on &quot;the bottom of the cassette&quot; so went to 26/38/52 and am very happy with those ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this ... do I continue upgrading this bike?  It's a pretty good fit and the frame seems to be in great shape. I'd like to add a set of &quot;brifters&quot; (seems I can find some sora or claris ones for &amp;lt; $50-$60), and possibly upgrade the wheelset (there's some reasonably priced aero-style weinmans out there).  Also thinking about a carbon fork ... Nashbar has a 1&quot; carbon fork also for around $100 when on sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For just a little more money, I think I'll have all the componentry I'd like to have.  But would it be better to just buy a new bike?  My price range for a new ride would ideally be &amp;lt; $1000.  What would I &quot;gain&quot; going to a new bike that I don't get by continuing to upgrade this one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a ~28-mile round-trip commute that I ride 2-4x per week ... averaging around 17mph.  I take longer weekend rides (40-60 miles is typical) and occasionally participate in longer charity rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19282" LastEditorUserId="19282" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T16:30:03.970" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T03:06:32.010" Title="Why not upgrade?" Tags="&lt;upgrade-or-new-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31238" CreationDate="2015-06-11T18:31:03.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am worried that &quot;brifters&quot; for $50-$60 is low and that you'd be getting some  garbage for that price.  ($200 for decent brifters seems the norm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A new wheelset adds $300 - $400?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$100 for the fork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$100 more for incidentals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;brings us to ~$800 for a bike you'd be happy with (plus what you spent on the bike already).  I tend to vote for keeping nice frames going, but if you need brifters and new wheels...  I'd keep and love the 1220 but put the money into a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T18:31:03.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31238" CreationDate="2015-06-11T19:20:27.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &amp;lt; $1000 you could get an a much newer bike (&amp;lt; 5 years old) full carbon with brifters and nice wheels. As @mcgyver5 stated, your upgrades on the 1220 will amount to the same money anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19928" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T19:20:27.837" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31233" CreationDate="2015-06-11T19:23:17.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When downshifting you are increasing the tension of the cable and moving the chain to the gears with more teeth. You've said there is no friction along the cable path and that the derailleur can move freely, so  if you can't increase tension, I would say it's the shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19928" LastEditorUserId="19928" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T16:28:32.757" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T16:28:32.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-11T20:04:34.280" Score="7" ViewCount="4867" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I've been getting notifications on my edge 510 of an upcoming segment (&amp;amp; and display when riding through it) - I can turn this off by hitting the red cross on screen when it comes up, but I'd like to completely disable this function and can't work our how. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5434" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T13:46:37.173" Title="How to turn off segments on edge 510" Tags="&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31233" CreationDate="2015-06-11T20:08:21.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The derailleur has a spring pulling it against the cable because the cable can only pull, not push. Is that spring intact? If not, it's probably best to replace the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T20:08:21.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31247" CreationDate="2015-06-11T23:28:37.170" Score="2" ViewCount="11010" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Giant Propel and the front left brake is constantly rubbing and sticking against the wheel. I've tried adjusting the bolt highlighted below, which I believe is the spring tension, but loosening or tightening this bolt seems to do nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wdbhe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also tried adjusting the barrel adjuster but when I loosen it, the right side (which isn't rubbing) will move further out from the wheel, where as the left side (the one that's rubbing) won't move at all no matter how much I twist the barrel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to centre these brakes to prevent them rubbing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18835" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T00:06:23.997" Title="Adjusting brake rub on a mini-v brake (Giant Propel)" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-11T23:35:53.753" Score="1" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen other posts on this general subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My BB seems tight, new chain installed by bike shop, gears all checked ... I am second owner of this Raleigh so no knowledge of past usage or maintenance ... could it be BB bearings?  Cannot detect what or where noise comes from ... any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19944" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T23:43:22.040" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T07:29:19.643" Title="Cannot locate mysterious crunching/grinding noise" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31242" CreationDate="2015-06-11T23:52:55.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Garmin connect, you can disable segments and then synch the 510.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you created your own segments? On the 510, you can go to segments under the folder menu, go to the very bottom option and choose delete all segments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19945" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T00:04:21.530" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T00:04:21.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31244" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:06:23.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The small screw to the northwest of your red circle in the picture is the spring tension adjuster. Tighten it down to increase the pull on the left side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also want to loosen the screw on the right side if there is a large imbalance in tension between the two arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt you tried adjusting simply holds the brake arm on. It doesn't have anything to do with the adjustment of your brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T00:06:23.997" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31238" CreationDate="2015-06-12T03:06:32.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't let them con you into spending more money that you need to. You already have a good bike that fits you, just upgrade the shifters and you'll be all set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T03:06:32.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31233" CreationDate="2015-06-12T03:12:49.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your shifter is jammed. You might be able to repair it, but I'd just get a new one. To confirm this diagnosis, remove the cable. If you still can't move the shifter, then you know it's bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And next time, don't leave your bike out all winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T03:12:49.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31254" CreationDate="2015-06-12T07:10:33.810" Score="1" ViewCount="2675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to repair my bike for the first time, so i'm learning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a shimano deore set for a flat handle road bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It won't stay in gear --- it keeps shifting while i ride, especially in the middle gears of the back cassette (first and last gear seem to stick better). It's especially an issue when i start pedaling backwards... the chain is completely undecided between 2 gears at almost all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already tried adjusting it the regular way, and it's not the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At closer inspection, i'm noticing that the pulley wheel labeled &quot;Shimano - Centeron G-Pulley&quot; doesn't spin perfectly straight. It sort of &quot;wobbles&quot; while it spins, and so... my chain sort of wobbles to the left and right as it spins around it. This makes the chain keep jumping gears. I understand that it is supposed to be able to &quot;slide&quot; to the left and right a little bit (the &quot;centeron&quot; tech, lol)... but in this case... it wobbles ever so slightly.. .and i'm not sure if that is okay, and if it means i need a new pulley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the part out and cleaned it. I put it back in, and it still wobbles.&#xA;Is my diagnosis good? Should i order a new pulley set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19949" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T08:54:06.323" Title="Is it normal for a Derailleur pulley to &quot;wobble&quot; a little bit? Or does that mean it's time to replace" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-12T07:44:05.973" Score="2" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a new bike and was riding it home and every so often it felt like the chain wasn't there and my feet pedal a little faster and then all of a sudden it would go back to normal. I looked in to this when I got home and discovered that when I have both brakes on and try and pedal, with some tension the pedals would turn a little bit with the cogs at the front and rear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is a new thing they put on bikes as I have not had one in a few years so just trying to figure out if it is a problem or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19951" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T21:57:21.967" Title="My rear cogs (not sure on the correct name) turn at force even when stationary." Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31252" CreationDate="2015-06-12T08:54:06.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wobblings fine - its likely you need to replace the cable as it stretches over time. You might also have to reindex the gears - but try replacing the cable first&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19935" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T08:54:06.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31236" CreationDate="2015-06-12T11:57:13.240" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highwaycode.info/rule/163&quot;&gt;Highway code rule 163&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;give motorcyclists, cyclists and horse riders at least as much room as&#xA;  you would when overtaking a car&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He wouldn't overtake a car as it was turning left, so he shouldn't overtake a cyclist; 2ft is not an adequate safe margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6407" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T11:57:13.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31144" CreationDate="2015-06-12T13:18:18.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the 5800, short cage can only take 28t but I wonder this too after seeing this. &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/LLldNX7s-c8?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19955" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T13:18:18.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31263" CreationDate="2015-06-12T14:00:47.423" Score="1" ViewCount="1218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am back to cycling after 7 years absence due to injury and time commitments. When I started 3 months ago I weighed 20kg more (105 kg in total) than when I stopped. My target is to build fitness (100+ miles per week) and lose the weight gradually (1kg per month) both of which I currently reach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike has a standard Shimano 105/5800 groupset with 53/39 chain rings and 11-32 cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the flats with a little wind from the back I tend to be in the largest gears whilst running at a decent cadence, but as soon as I start climbing more than 3% (and I live in a hilly area) I tend to be on the smallest of gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my real question. Would it make sense for me to switch to the smaller 50/34 chain rings? Or is it more sensible to tough it out for now and expect that both the weight reduction and fitness improvement will get me into a more comfortable position relatively quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19956" LastEditorUserId="19956" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T21:47:11.217" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T22:53:42.830" Title="Should I switch to a smaller chain ring?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31332" CreationDate="2015-06-12T15:44:09.393" Score="2" ViewCount="5457" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my commute yesterday, I noticed that my right shifter was no longer 'clicking' when shifting my rear derailleur up into a larger sprocket. It still shifted fine, but I noted that I should look into it this weekend. On the commute in this morning, it stopped shifting altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symptoms&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain/derailleur is on the smallest sprocket. It is positioned fine, no noise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I press the brake lever inwards to shift the derailleur up, it moves a bit until I can feel the shift cable tightening ever so slightly. The shift lever stops and feels locked at that point. (It will not go through it's full sweep inwards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thumb lever on the sora shifter feels loose and has no tension. (Normal for when it is on the smallest sprocket)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I pull on the shift cable itself (cable is routed along the top bar of the bike) the derailleur moves smoothly through the gears on the cassette.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it first happened, I played a little bit with the cable tension, but that effectively did nothing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has never happened to me before, does anyone recognize these symptoms and should I attempt a repair or are the internals likely broken in the shifter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T16:12:08.210" Title="Shimano sora shifter no longer shifts" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31296" CreationDate="2015-06-12T16:58:59.850" Score="4" ViewCount="1715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting renovation work on an old bicycle. One of the things I want to do is a new paint job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess before that I'll need to sand the current paint off the frame. So I bought sandpaper. On the back of the sandpaper packaging, they state &quot;beware when sanding lead paint&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makes sense, I guess, don't really want to be intoxicated with lead. A quick research on Internet showed that somes bikes had lead paint or lead rust inhibitor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question now is: is my bicycle lead-free? Is there any way to identify lead paint? The bike is an old Flandria, probably dates back to... I have no idea really...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jhe6i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;full bike frame and fork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MoFg3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The sticker on the seat tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4Kpw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;sticker on the down tube&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if it turns out to be lead paint? Is there a safe way to sand it, and be eco-friendly with the resulting dust? Or should I just paint over it? What about the existing rust patches?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T08:48:46.177" Title="How to identify lead paint?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31253" CreationDate="2015-06-12T20:01:35.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not normal to be able to move the pedals forward without moving the wheel. There must be something wrong with the ratcheting mechanism on the rear wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a brand new, original bike from a reputable brand, this is simply unacceptable, a defective part and should be covered by the warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on low end bikes, a warranty may be non-existent and for the price level, it may not even worth the hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note on terminology: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ratcheting mechanism may be built into the hub, then it is called a &lt;strong&gt;freehub&lt;/strong&gt; and the cogs are a one piece unit. If the ratchet is built into the cogs, then they are called a &lt;strong&gt;freewheel&lt;/strong&gt;. Only the rear gears are called &quot;cogs&quot;. The front gears are called chainrings, and together with the arms that hold the pedals -the cranks- they are called the crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know from experience that some low end freewheels have cogs press-fit into a central piece. Sometimes they are made of soft metals so the joint can slip under the force of the pedals. If this is the case, then you can upgrade the freewheel. Shimano freewheels are affordable (in most places). Changing a freewheel is not complicated but requires a special tool to unscrew the freewheel from the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the slippage occurs on the freewheel, because, similarly, a low end, poorly built crankset may suffer from the same kind of problem. (pedals/cranks slipping respect to the chainring(s)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A freehub is very less likely to suffer from this, at least on reputable brands, but with low end manufacturers you can never know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another, very unlikely possibility is that the mechanism is clogged with dirt or too thick grease. Since the bike is new, dirt is unlikely. If this where the case, the solution is to have a qualified mechanic take the mechanism apart, clean and reassembly while aplying fresh grease&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that even though you just bought the bike, it was assembled a long time ago, (several years) so part of the solvents in the grease evaporated, leaving a thick, gooey paste that may be sticky enough to keep the internal pawls to engage the saw tooth on the body of the freewheel/freehub. However, this is very unlikely on a reputable brand bike, it may happen on low and very low end bikes (which use cheap lubricants). When this happens, the bike doesn't make the tic-tic-tic-... sound when coasting, and the pedalling action feels &quot;spongy&quot;. If this happens to the freewheel, it may be also the case with the hubs, then the wheels won't spin freely and the bike feels harder to pedal than it should. If this where the case, the solution is the same as previous case: take apart, clean, apply fresh lube and reassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On bikes with freewheel, this part is screwed into the hub, Sometimes it is not tightened when assembled so the pedaling action tightens it. Nonetheless this should happen only once and the freewheel won't perform a full rotation respect to the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T21:57:21.967" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T21:57:21.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31259" CreationDate="2015-06-12T22:11:30.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rough up the paint with sandpaper, and then use Aircraft Remover to get the paint off, if you try to sand it, you'll go crazy. DO NOT use aircraft remover inside, and wear a filter mask, it will make you sick if you don't. It will rip the paint right off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/paint-chemicals/aircraft-remover&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/paint-chemicals/aircraft-remover&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19962" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T22:11:30.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31257" CreationDate="2015-06-12T22:47:40.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a standard crank with a 700/23 wheel development:&#xA;53x11 is 10.1 meters, at 90 rpm is 54.55 kph&#xA;53x12 is 9.3 meters, at 90 rpm is 50.05 kph&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison, a compact crank with the same wheel:&#xA;50x11 is 9.5 meters, at 90 rpm is 51.50kph&#xA;50x12 is 8.7 meters, at 90 rpm is 47.15 kph&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;until you become a pro cyclist and can hold 40+kph average speeds, you don't need a standard crank, pick up a compact and enjoy cycling more. I would pick up a cycle computer that measures cadence and try to teach yourself to ride 80+ and ideally around 90+ rpm for flats, and 80ish for the climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;here is a decent article on cadence choices:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.active.com/cycling/articles/cycling-cadence-in-training-and-racing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;active.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19962" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T22:47:40.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31257" CreationDate="2015-06-12T22:53:42.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were in your situation, I would definitely get a compact (50/34) crank.  Gaining lower gears for climbing makes some uphills possible and other uphills easier. All you have to give up is maybe some top speed on downhills. You're still able to ride those downhills, only you'll be going 55kph instead of 60kph.  Or increase your cadence.  In general I come across a lot of people who think they need huge gears because they somehow want to have a really low cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you said you're riding for fitness and weight loss, I don't think that top speed is a priority for you -- you're not competing against others in a race.  It's much more important that you can handle hills and don't hurt your knees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My top gear is 46/11 and I never find that to be a limitation.  A cadence of 120rpm is quite reasonable for a few minutes (few descents are really long) and 120rpm with a gear of 46/11 is approximately 65kph.  With a top gear of 50/11, it's 71kph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T22:53:42.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31266" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-13T04:06:59.023" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will be my first cyclo cross bike and I am already using the same techniques with my mtb.&#xA;My question is what should I look for in it. Since the country I live in does not have any official brand manufacturing cyclo cross bikes, I have to look for the nearest replacement.&#xA;So what should I look for, like rigid frame, type of brakes gears, anything such&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My use is based on high speed sprints and short length moderate offroad  use&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few more things carbon fibre frames are not easily available so I prefer other materials, I live in a rainy place(recently its been more rainy for past 2 years, likely to continue in future)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14633" LastEditorDisplayName="user14633" LastEditDate="2015-06-13T12:57:30.157" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T14:42:00.017" Title="What should I look for in a cyclo cross bike" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35900" CreationDate="2015-06-13T08:09:30.050" Score="2" ViewCount="3118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a replacement crankset for my Motobecane Nomade 10-speed road bike (early '70s model), but am not quite sure what I even have at the moment and, once I know what I can use to replace it with, I still don't know where I could find it. Can someone help me with either of these two tasks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bottom bracket&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that when I bought the bike, the seller had replaced the bottom bracket because the one it previously had was bad, but I'm not sure with what sort of bottom bracket he replaced it (e.g. French vs. Swiss vs. modern).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Crankset specifications&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told by a mechanic that's a double crankset with 52/39 teeth for a square bottom bracket and an 8-speed chain (I think so?-- could this be right?).&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJjN1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unidentified crankset&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8685" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T05:24:48.450" Title="Replacing crankset on early-'70s Motobecane 10-speed" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31273" CreationDate="2015-06-13T11:45:25.137" Score="3" ViewCount="5257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Cannondale BadBoy with slick tyres, no suspension etc. On roads the ride is fine, but I do less of that these days and more along tracks (e.g. unmaintained paths, towpaths etc.). On non-metalled surfaces the ride is incredibly hard and I get incredible vibration through the forks and frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options for modifying the bike so I can mitigate this. Will suspension forks soften the whole ride or just the vibration through the handlebars. My local bike shop recommended knobbly tires, a suspension-fitted seatpost and/or front suspension forks. Or should I just keep the bike for road use and get something more appropriate ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19969" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T16:10:37.903" Title="Making a Cannondale BadBoy ride softer" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31268" CreationDate="2015-06-13T12:06:58.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wider tires are the first thing to try. The BadBoys are basically rigid mountain bikes with 622mm wheels and narrow tires, so you could also put on mountain bike sized wheels and very wide tires. With a second set of wheels, it's easy to change between road and off-road riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About suspension forks, with current geometry there isn't much room for the suspension to work. You could install a 29&quot; suspension fork, but that would change the bike's geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T12:06:58.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-13T12:55:23.747" Score="3" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just managed to remove the fork from the old frame I'm renovating. In the headset bearings, the grease looks odd!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UzoPo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;odd grease in the headset&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See these tiny metal balls? At least it looks like that... Is that on purpose, is that debris? The races do not seem to be damaged. If I reuse the same headset, should I try to find the same type of grease, or any waterproof grease would fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T09:09:12.733" Title="What kind of grease is that?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;&lt;grease&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31266" CreationDate="2015-06-13T14:42:00.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much to go on.  Disc brakes for wet.  2x set up if you are going to use is on the road.  You probably want clincher wheels.  Aluminum frame.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not technically a CX but a bike like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/city/fitness/crossrip/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/city/fitness/crossrip/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T14:42:00.017" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31268" CreationDate="2015-06-13T15:06:05.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would start with the biggest knobbly tires the frame and wheel will take. It came with a 28 mm.  I doubt there is enough clearance to put a mtn 2.2 on it but even a 35 mm or 38 mm is big step.  In knobby a 35 mm will be sold as a CX. Run the tires at less than maximum pressure unless you are over like 180 lbs.  Those slicks are not the correct tires anyway.  For a fairly small cost you are going in the right direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A suspension fork will change the geometry and is expensive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a suspension seatpost you are probably riding the ruff stuff out of the seat already. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going with a separate set of wheels then tubeless to run at a lower pressure.  But now you are starting to spend some money. Depending on how big of tire the frame will take pick the proper rim width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would just start with some tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-06-13T15:21:41.780" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T15:21:41.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-13T19:40:05.960" Score="2" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to mount an Xtracycle to the roof of your car?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Xtracycle has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.xtracycle.com/news/2014/12/4/transporting-your-bike-by-car-or-train-bus-or-plane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;few suggestions&lt;/a&gt; particilary a Thule or RockyMounts Tandem rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a Mazda CX-9 with factory cross bars.  The problem with Xtracycle's suggestion is it will cost around $800 to buy all that gear.  We are looking for a cheaper option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were considering the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.seasucker.com/shop/1187/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sea Sucker Talon&lt;/a&gt;.   That looks like it might work.  It will be a task to get the big bike on to the roof of the car but we will only be doing this occasionally.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our bike is a converted Bianchi which looks similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3022/2972060489_54b18e37d2.jpg?v=1234240169&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.  It's around 50+lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12874" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T08:24:45.483" Title="How to carry Xtracycle by car?" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30083" CreationDate="2015-06-13T23:05:01.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally got it going using a Shimano Nexus 3 (SG-3C41). Looking at the pics, I figured that I could remove the massive outer distance nuts to make it fit a narrower fork:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kozqd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SG-3C41 right&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ug4h7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SG-3C41 left&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was not quite sufficient to get it to 110mm so I had to make use of an angle grinder to cut a couple of mm off the cone-shaped nut on the right side of the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most tedious part of it all was finding an 18&quot; bicycle rim with 36 holes. I could not get one, so I ordered a 32-hole rim ending up with three different spoke lengths (3-crossed) in the wheel. It took me some effort to figure out of how to lace the wheel and seems to bring some durability / stability issues due to the difference in spoke tensions, but this is a kid's bike after all so great strain on the rear wheel is not to be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19127" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T23:05:01.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30492" CreationDate="2015-06-14T03:14:42.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check your cable. You should have full length housing. The housing should be compressionless. These hubs are accurate solid performers but are VERY susceptible to small maladjustments in the cable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T03:14:42.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31300" CreationDate="2015-06-14T07:11:27.377" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a Wahoo RFLKT+ computer. It has a built in backlight for night riding, but to conserve the battery the light times out after a while (30 second default). Since I have a hub generator, I'd like the light on continuously when riding at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the day the display is reflective, so I'm thinking that an LED shining on the display might be able to light it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if anybody has done something similar and has suggestions for wiring and placement of the LED. The wiring seems like it would simply require adding an LED in parallel to the headlight/taillight with a currently limiting resistor, I'm not sure sure about how to effectively place the LED.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T21:12:12.757" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T12:41:03.677" Title="Computer Light For Nighttime Riding" Tags="&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31274" CreationDate="2015-06-14T08:24:45.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the length of the bike is makes it legal, hitch rack with the bike sticking out would be the cheapest and easiest - You would be no wider than trailers and trucks, but care would be need to remember that. Get a rack fabricated that holds the bike vertically off the hitch, Strop the top roof the rack back to the roof bars. For ideas have a look at here and talk to an engineering shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look for ideas to carry tandems - &lt;a href=&quot;http://cloggy.brinkster.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is one idea that would work&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T08:24:45.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17602" CreationDate="2015-06-14T14:54:30.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there is a difference between traditional gear &amp;amp; brake housing. And no you shouldn't use standard gear housing for brakes as it can split right down the middle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The true compressionless housing available for brakes these days is like nokon, i-link and vertebrae. They all use a segmented design and can be used safely for both gears and brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19976" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T14:54:30.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31268" CreationDate="2015-06-14T15:59:43.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running suspension with narrow tyres is a fool's game: the store is trying to chump you. How far a tyre pressure decrease will take you depends on your weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, the BadBoy is just a design driven by marketing. It's aimed at people scared to ride drop bar bikes who still want to go fast and imagine thin tyres will help them do that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact tyre width has nothing to do with tyre drag - wide tyres can be extremely fast (it depends on the materials used and other details of construction &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rolling_resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rolling_resistance&lt;/a&gt;) until you get up to speeds where minor differences in air resistance due to width matter - which you won't on a flat bar bike! These differences only come in to play at serious racing speeds. (The fastest wide tyres are probably Schwalbe Almotions; they cost several times more than the cheapest.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good suspension components are expensive and usually require a lot of maintenance, and cheap ones can be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;..If you're a light weight type of guy, try fitting the widest tyres you can and dropping the pressure. Otherwise, buy a bike with room for wide tyres. Probably avid suspension - good suspension is expensive and requires regular maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...A really good bike for this sort of job is an old 26&quot; mtb with no suspension, bought off ebay - Kona and GT are good bets. Or you can buy a new boutique adventure bike that is a copy of one of these for about 5 times the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: if you're going to ride on gravel etc, get some tyres with some knobs for grip - they will cost you speed and handling on the road, but washing out on gravel can be painful and dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13700" LastEditorUserId="13700" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T16:10:37.903" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T16:10:37.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16584" CreationDate="2015-06-14T18:19:19.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be certain to check on the quality of the grease......&#xA;Automobile rear end (differential) lube contains a good percentage of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate--the this lube splashes along the rear axle (rear wheel drive vehicles) and is the only source of lubrication for the rear axle timken tapered roller bearings.  It is not unheard of for these bearings to last for over 150,000 miles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motor oil, especially racing oils, used high amounts of zinc d in the recent past.  (one of its primary functions is to allow metals to slide along each other and to slide along each other, in the absence of an oil film, with none to minimal metal destruction.  Zinc has been reduced, as it is destructive to catalytic converters.  So, to live with less zinc, most manufacturers have switched to roller cam tappets--as there is less friction than flat tappets.  (Flat tappets are probably the highest potential wear point (metal destruction) on an internal combustion engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the oil additive aisle of your auto parts store, look for crankcase additives containing zinc d.  Rislone (zinc supplement( is a good brand--this stuff is made specifically for hot-rodders using much higher valve spring pressure on high lift camshafts--regular oil simply isn't going to allow that engine to last--unless it has a higher zinc level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use bearing grease with zinc.....and if you aren't certain--use just a few drops on each cone (after you pack in the usual amount of grease) and your cone life will be extended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be certain to adjust the bearings properly&#xA;1) turn them in--just barely finger tight&#xA;2) rotate the wheel on the axle--it probably won't feel smooth and there will probably be a bit of resistance&#xA;3) back off just slightly on the cone nut until the wheel seems free on the axle&#xA;4) then back off (turn left) the tiniest bit of a turn&#xA;5) then lock down both hex nuts&#xA;6) check to see that the tiniest bit of slack can be detected--that's what you want....and I do mean tiny.....and I do mean some&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19985" LastEditorUserId="19985" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T18:42:11.253" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T18:42:11.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-14T18:54:27.487" Score="2" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek road bike (although you might call it a hybrid since it has straight handlebars. I do about 3,000 miles per year on it for general health reasons (up to 30 miles at a time and averaging 13 mph) and I'm not into racing, cycling clubs etc (I'm coming up to 70). I've just replaced the front chain wheel with an identical version (Shimano Acera FC-M361 48-38-28T) and also the chain. I need to replace the rear chain wheel but before I do I thought I might ask for some advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The supplied rear chain wheel is a Shimano HG-51 8aw (i.e. 11-32T). Virtually all of my riding is on levelish ground and UK roads (as bumpy as hell!) with pretty shallow inclines - no off road riding. I find I rarely use the high and low front gears and virtually never use the bottom two rear gears. So what would be your advice on what gearing I should buy for the rear chain wheel replacement, and if you feel so inclined could you comment on the overall front and rear gearing - I feel its probably not optimal since I only seem to use 5 or so of the 24 gears!    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19982" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T22:58:45.990" Title="What gears should I go for?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31284" CreationDate="2015-06-14T19:57:53.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you aren't using many of the gears, then you should definitely go for something with a smaller range. The triple crank will give you plenty of range even without a wide range cassette. They sell 12-25 and 12-23 cassettes which may be closer to what you are looking for. I have an 8 speed cassette with a 52-42-30 crankset and I opted for the 12-23 cassette. I find there is plenty of range for climbing hills. The nice thing is that the gears are so much closer and I find that it's a lot easier to find the right gear in order to maintain an optimal cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T19:57:53.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30822" CreationDate="2015-06-14T20:56:48.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by checking that the axle is clamped firmly in place. The connectors are part of the axle assembly and shouldn't be able to turn with the hub unless the axle is loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the comment above about having the connections on the right hand side of the hub applies to older versions of the SON28. The newest versions (the 2015 40/48-hole tandem hubs as well as the 2012 and later versions with the smaller flange permit the connections to be on either side, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nabendynamo.de/produkte/pdf/english/son282013e.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nabendynamo.de/produkte/pdf/english/son282013e.pdf&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T23:22:20.850" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T23:22:20.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-14T21:46:34.957" Score="7" ViewCount="4147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if I can use a Brompton bike with a trailer like the Thule Chariot Cougar? It uses the so called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/products/active-with-kids/bicycle-trailers/bicycle-trailer-accessories/thule-axle-mount-ezhitcht-_-20100796&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thule Axle Mount&lt;/a&gt; and I wonder if it is compatible to the bike. At this point, it is just advanced planning and I can't test the possible setup. What do you think, any experiences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11069" LastActivityDate="2020-02-04T11:38:44.043" Title="Can I use a Brompton bike with a trailer like the Thule Chariot Cougar?" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;brompton&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31284" CreationDate="2015-06-14T22:58:45.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you already know the range of high and low gears that work for you on your normal rides – an 11-24 cassette with a 38 tooth chainring, which covers a range of 93.1 to 42.7 &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gear inches&lt;/a&gt;.&quot; The closest standard 8-speed cassettes are an 11-23 or a 12-23 (Sheldon Brown has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/k8.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list of available cassettes&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are pretty close to the range you're using now, but with closer steps. This would give you more options for finding a comfortable cadence. Your small ring would give you an overlapping range 32.8 to 62.9, use it when you're tired or riding into a headwind. The big ring would give you a range of 61.6 to 118 (assuming an 11 tooth small cog) which you might use with a tailwind or if the ride is predominantly down hill. Both of the ranges on the outside rings of the front omit the extreme cog of the rear (e.g., small ring front to small cog in the rear or large ring in the front to large cog in the rear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other advice I'd offer is to notice the front and rear combination where pedaling feels the best on the current setup and select a new cassette that includes that same ratio – and ideally also gives you something very close to that ratio when you're using the large and small rings as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T22:58:45.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T03:32:26.193" Score="0" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                   My bike is a Trek 1100 Aluminum Frame&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My bike has a few dings and scratched in the frame, and I want to get rid of them. So I was thinking I could get a powder coat or something to get a new paint job on there. I want to cover up the dings, but also get a new color on there like  bright green. Can I do that? If so would they go over the label and somehow out one back on or would they not put one back on? What is the price for that kind of thing too?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I was looking at some new colorful rims, and some said &quot;single speed&quot;. What does that mean on a rim?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a Trek 1100 aluminum frame, so many of the adjustments are hex wrenches/Allan wrenches. The seat is also that way. So my question is, can I somehow put the modern seat adjuster on it? Like fit the clamp on there in a way it would stay, or is the seat post a little too small to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19990" LastActivityDate="2017-04-27T17:50:59.883" Title="I have a few questions about frame repair, seat adjustments, and rims." Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T07:31:19.623" Score="2" ViewCount="1104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a road and mtb regional racer about to have a go at my first road endurance nationals very soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like some &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;educated scientifically validated&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; answer on a matter that has been on my mind ever since I got a new bargain race bike that unfortunately came with a compact crankset. I actually went from 39/53 + 12/28 10speed to 34/50 + 11/28 11speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;On paper&lt;/em&gt; I'm a lot better off with the new setup, since I'm using the exact same spacing on the cassette with the benefit of the 11t cog i didn't have, which, even though doubled with a compact gearing upfront, ends up giving me a lot more headroom in bottom and even a tad bit more top speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My coach has always insisted that even on same gearing ratios, when compared, a larger crank ring with a smaller cassette cog end up giving you higher leverage and ultimately better power transfer or whatever mechanical benefit. Last Saturday, trying out hard climbs on fresh legs with about same gear ratios on the 50 vs my 34, actually &lt;em&gt;felt&lt;/em&gt; less efficient on the 34 for some reason, mind you same cadence, intensity, gradient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's your take on all this? If the math says gear ratios are same, are the actual ring and cog sizes irrelevant? Is it actually beneficial to switch to my standard crank due to increased leverage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot, lads!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19993" LastEditorUserId="19993" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T09:45:46.770" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T20:33:39.817" Title="(racer) Standard vs compact crankset: Increased leverage for same gear ratios true?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;physics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31259" CreationDate="2015-06-15T08:48:46.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I asked the same question on the chemistry forums. They came up with interesting answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who are curious: &lt;a href=&quot;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/32831/how-to-detect-lead-paint-on-a-bicycle&quot;&gt;https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/32831/how-to-detect-lead-paint-on-a-bicycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, I've tried scratching a bit of paint off the frame. It works just fine without chemical stripper. Won't take more than a few hours!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:57:06.580" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T08:48:46.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31295" CreationDate="2015-06-15T11:22:25.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Talking about science, there are two factors here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moment of inertia - smaller and lighter cogs in a compact crankset mean smaller moment of inertia, which in turn means that you need smaller force to obtain the same acceleration. In this aspect a compact crankset gives a slight advantage. Note: this parameter is practically insignificant when it comes to maintaining pedaling speed - it's all about acceleration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drivetrain efficiency - I've already written a post on it somewhere, but in short: with the same gear ratio drivetrain efficiency improves with larger rear cog (lighter gear at the back). Since with a compact crankset you need relatively smaller cog at the back for the same gear ratio, a it will have a slight disadvantage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see the overall effect, we'd have to make calculations for each crankset, power input and gear ratio separately, but I'd argue that drivetrain efficiency will be a little more important here (it's due to friction force, which is there all the time), so a compact crankset could be a &quot;slower&quot; option.&#xA;However the differences in both cases will be barely noticeable on the road, and even less noticeable off-road. Or at least placebo effect can give a feeling of much larger difference than even extreme cases of the above factors - if you didn't know which one you're using, you probably wouldn't be able to feel the difference. So unless you're fighting a Marginal Gains war in a world tour peleton, it's not a thing worth worrying about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastEditorUserId="14321" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T13:12:12.947" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T13:12:12.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31278" CreationDate="2015-06-15T12:41:03.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some time ago I built something like this myself, in more or less the same way you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The wiring seems like it would simply require adding an LED in&#xA;  parallel to the headlight/taillight with a currently limiting&#xA;  resistor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly. I bought an LED rated for 6V DC by the manufacturer (I think they have a built-in resistor), so I could skip the external resistor. Adding an external resistor should work too, but means more work and more connections that may fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm not sure sure about how to effectively place the LED.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's the tricky part. I obtained a thin plastic tube (about 1mm diameter), and bent it to form a sort of archway above the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I threaded a flexible wire (naked wire used for fastening, not electrical wire) through the tube. This wire provided stability to the arch, and its ends were wrapped around the handlebar left and right of the computer, to fix the &quot;archway&quot; in place. I cut a small hole in the side of the plastic tube, and threaded the two electrical cables into the tube, one from each sides, so they came out at the hole. Then I soldered the LED to the two cables. Finally I gently pushed the legs of the LED into the hole (one to go left, one right, following their respective cable), so the LED sat in the hole. I finally fixed the arch to the handle bar using the wire ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result looked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   ______________&#xA;  / ____     ____ \&#xA; / /     |_|     \ \&#xA; ||      / \     | |&#xA; ||              | |&#xA; ||              | |&#xA; ||  |Computer|  | |&#xA;######################&#xA;      handle bar&#xA;######################&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I omitted the the wire and cables due to ASCII art limitations :-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This worked reasonably well. Electrically, it was fine, but mechanically the setup is rather wobbly, and the wire can break if you bend it too often. Also, getting the angle of the LED right is tricky, because LEDs have a fairly narrow beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, if you want to give it a shot, it's worth a try. It was not very hard to do, and did not require expensive material (the LED cost less than 1 Euro).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T12:41:03.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31076" CreationDate="2015-06-15T12:48:38.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd guess you're doing the majority of the damage to your knees with the squats and that the riding the bike heavily just exacerbates it.  Maybe you also just don't really have any other occasion to use your knee ligaments in a way to feel the damage you're doing.  I'm a pedal masher too but heavy squats are a real killer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19997" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T12:48:38.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31288" CreationDate="2015-06-15T13:16:50.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to say yes based on this photo.  It looks that the hole is big enough to pass over just about any axle, quick release or nutted.  I think what is throwing you off is that it comes with a quick release skewer that is longer than what is typically used for wheels.  You may not need that provided skewer.  Burley uses a similar one and I was able to put the hitch on a Jamis bike using the skewers that came with the bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike has the internal gear hub, it probably has anti rotation washer (special washers to keep the axle from turning).  This hitch would mount to the outside of that washer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U0dWk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thule hitch&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T13:16:50.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31232" CreationDate="2015-06-15T14:38:25.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem on my bike. The manufacturer had made the rims too deep and it was causing the tube to conform to the odd extra &quot;U&quot; shape when pumped up. It took a while to figure out why I was going through so many tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check with your manufacturer / retailer. I got mine replaced free of charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps your rims have an abnormality near the valve hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T14:38:25.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31076" CreationDate="2015-06-15T16:07:50.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are doing exercises that cause pain in your knee, it generally could mean one of two things, your mechanics are bad and putting strain on your joint, or your joint hasn't seen such hard use and the tendons, ligaments and joint capsule aren't adapted to such use.  Since it sounds like you strength train regularly, I'd guess you have a mechanics issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to look at your saddle height as well as the setup and type of pedal you are using.  While many more experienced riders prefer a large amount of float in their pedals (the play before a pedal will unclip) I found that less float keeps my knees in a better position and reduces the problems I have with mine.  Between that and a different cleat adjustment a few years back, I have greatly reduced the strain my knees feel while riding long distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I wouldn't necessarily recommend my same setup to you (or anyone), I would point you at your mechanics/bike fit first.  It may be very easy to make some simple adjustments and provide your knees with a better position (for them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T16:07:50.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T16:38:03.683" Score="4" ViewCount="6651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big mountain biker and looking to get into road biking.  However, I don't want to drop $1,500 on a new or relatively new road bike without being sure I'd want to stick with it.  Anyway, I found an old 1974 men's Schwinn Varsity 10 speed road bike on Craigslist for about $100 and I'm not sure of a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, I'd like to upgrade a few parts on the bike if I do buy it, e.g.: clipless pedals, possibly a drivetrain overhaul, etc.  The only thing I'm not informed of is compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second of all, I really have no idea how a bike this old would match up to a bike from the last 5 years or so.  I'd be riding with people from my local bike shop and I wouldn't want to have a tough time keeping up because of shortcomings in my ride.  Obviously a newer bike is better, but does the difference really matter if I'm not doing the Tour de France?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13918" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T03:05:19.270" Title="Are older road bike parts compatible with newer standards? How do older and newer bikes match up performance wise?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31305" CreationDate="2015-06-15T17:01:31.270" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upgrading an older bike is typically not economical.  Parts are typically not cheaper.  Parts are not as available.  That drivetrain is not compatible with a modern bike.  Bikes have gotten better.  Little faster, lighter, more comfortable, and easier to service.  You can find decent to nice newer model used bikes for $400.  Find someone that bought an $800 bike thinking they were going to get healthy, did not ride it, and is selling it for $400.  It happens and that is your best value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T18:42:20.557" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T18:42:20.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31270" CreationDate="2015-06-15T18:04:36.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's funny! I found the same little metal balls on a headset I overhauled not long ago. They were on the fork threads. I'm not sure what caused them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the grease you need: as long as you clean the bearings completely, it doesn't matter. Use whatever grease you want, preferably on the thick side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T18:04:36.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31305" CreationDate="2015-06-15T18:40:22.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it all depends on the use you are going to give the bike. I've owned nothing but older bikes (road) since I resumed cycling around 2006, mostly for commuting and occasional longer rides (on the lines of 5.000 km / year) and everything has been ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do is try and find some old bike that works fine, and not get into the upgrade thing; if you are going to change stuff, better get a new one, because it is so easy to get entangled in an upgrading trend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UhX2O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the kind of bike I would look for, that I think can give you more for your money: something from early 90's with an old shimano 105 group or similar, which provides reliable shifting and braking, steel frame that will still last a lot and not very heavy... these bikes are awesome... not too old to be overpriced as vintage, not so new that will still cost a lot, and really close to modern bike performance once you master downtube shifting. I bought a similar one for 140€ that I was very lucky to get, but I see them in the 200 - 300 € range, which is still a really great bike for the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for mountain bikes, it is another story, those have improved more with time, (suspension, disc brakes, smooth shifting under tension, whatnot ..)and I would go for a new one if I was interested in getting out to the trails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bikes I mentioned are also easy to resell at the price you bought, so if you get into more serious riding you can always sell and get new one without losing much (which will not happen if you upgrade a lot)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T18:40:22.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31305" CreationDate="2015-06-15T19:59:28.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding interchangeable components, it's hard to say without pictures, but it's likely this will be hard because a) old bike, old standards and b) even with the same standards road and mountain components are substantially different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding old vs new, this question is hard to answer. If you take a look at similar answers in this Stack Overflow you will see big discussions regarding old vs new bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people say they have old bikes that use everyday reliably, and that's great. They also say performance is really nice, and that is great either. Other people love their old bikes. This is all great, as what is really important is that you have a bike and that you have fun in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have a different take, but given what's stated above please keep in mind this is (a little) a personal opinion, and that people will disagree for the reason above, some time rightfully, some times not really. I am also the owner of old and new bikes and deal with bikes daily because most of my groups of friends have bikes and we all use them daily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An old bike is an old bike. It's like an old car. I have a 15 years old Toyota that works reliably, absolutely nothing is wrong with that car. I love it. Does it perform as good as my parent's 3 year old one? No way. Does it require more maintenance? Yes it does. For two reasons: time takes an impact in every vehicle, everything has a life span; and technology evolves and changes in 15 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the same thing with bikes: you can have an old bike that works well, and you can use it everyday, but a new bike is a new bike. Having a component that just left the factory is just better than using one that that has been used for the last 10 years. Worst case scenario, and your new bike even comes with guarantee, some of them of a few years. Not only it is more likely you will have problems with an old bike, on the short term that is something you will have to deal with it, instead of simply filling a guarantee claim and get a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will now come and say that &quot;mechanic principles didn't change that much in the last 15 or 20 years&quot;. That is true. A derailleur works the same way. And so do the brakes. But returning to the car example, an engine has the exact same 4-step gas-consuming principle as it had 20 years ago, and driving a new car is much, much better. It's faster, more powerful, revs easier and consumes a lot less fuel. And it is the same with bike components: new brakes have better materials, tweaked designs, servo technologies, and therefore they break much better. This is true for all bike components, as they didn't suffer a complete revolution but they sure have suffered years of evolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you felt in love with old bike, want to go through the process of restoring it or buy it ready to ride, maintain it, and have fun riding it, that is great. Again, having fun doing it is what really matters, and if your friends are not Cipollini's I am sure you will be able to catch up with them. However, I would recommend just get something new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have old and new bikes, but for long rides I always use the new ones. I love the old ones much more but really, being on a modern bike with modern components is just different. It is just better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get something pretty good close to the $1000 range, as you can see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gear/article/best-road-bikes-under-1000-29719/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. For example, I am not sure you can get find B'Twin bikes in the US, but one of the bikes on the list is a B'Twin Triban Black 5 that goes for around $700 and has five stars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can try is to find shops around you that rent bikes. Rent one for one or two days, and get the feel of what riding a road bike is. It is very different from mountain biking, but I think you will love. I do, but again I love every kind of bike ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T19:59:28.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T20:25:43.750" Score="0" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently bought a pair of used zipp 808 clinchers and was a bit disappointed when after a closer look discovered a couple of small concavities (something like 1mm in diameter) on outer side of the rims here and there. Apparently someone attached too much power to levers (I just can't believe one can use a screwdriver for this purpose on a zipp wheelset) when he or she was trying to remove a tire. I'm wondering how critical this damage is? In terms of durability, riding quality, aero, etc? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tbXv4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2036" LastEditorUserId="2036" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:33:26.297" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T23:48:16.697" Title="Small concavities on rims" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29860" CreationDate="2015-06-15T20:48:31.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your problem is worn out (or broken) index springs aka G-springs. These are part of the shifter mechanism. Worn out G-springs will enable rear derailleur spring to pull the cable over the indexes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to test is putting the rear derailleur on bigger sprocket and pull the cable. If it drops indexes (goes to smaller sprocket) then the problem is caused by G-springs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;G-springs are replaceable in older (pre 2007) Campagnolo shifters. Only tools needed are hex keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20002" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T01:48:42.980" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T01:48:42.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:17:31.043" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride on and off road on my MTB and most time I've had problems with those little dry spiky things from the bushes(sorry I don't know what they're called). I've had 2 flat tires so far and it's always those pesky spiky things that puncture through the tire and the inner tube. What kind/brand of inner tube do you folks recommend that can withstand riding over these summer dried spiky things on the dirt bike paths? tire size is: 29 X 1.95.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20004" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T23:43:32.127" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T00:18:05.127" Title="Inner tube problem" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-06-17T12:39:31.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31305" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:29:13.250" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is relatively simple to find parts to fit old bikes. Things have changed a lot but there are still enough old bikes out there that you will not have a difficult time getting replacement chains, cogsets, derailers, wheels, bottom brackets, wheel bearings, seat posts, stems, headsets, or anything else. Any gaps in what is available can likely be filled by a visit to your local bike co-op, who will have bins overflowing with what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;THAT SAID: Schwinn Varsitys were not a nice bike, they aren't worth the effort of upgrading, and you should absolutely not pay $100 for one. The frame is stiff, heavy &quot;gas pipe&quot; tubing, the dropouts are inferior stamped steel, and the parts are garbage and probably worn out and/or seized into place. They go for a lot more than they are worth on craigslist due to the market not knowing any better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the seller is willing to take under $50 for it, by all means ride it and have fun. It will take your preferred clipless pedals and saddle with no problem at all. I wouldn't mess with the drivetrain as that will be a can of worms not worth opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20005" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:29:13.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31314" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:47:54.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various manufacturers out there who offer puncture resistant tires and liners.  All of them sacrifice weight for puncture resistance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would highly recommend you look into running tubeless tires.  When you pick up thorns, you can simply remove them, spin the wheel, add some air (if needed) and keep riding.  They require much less effort if you ride in areas with lots of thorns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T21:47:54.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31314" CreationDate="2015-06-16T00:18:05.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those darn spiky things are called thorns. Where I'm from there are cactuses that hide in the grass in some places and are notorious for puncturing bike tires. The solution is to use tire sealant in your tubes. Out here most people use &lt;a href=&quot;http://slime.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Slime,&quot;&lt;/a&gt; you can buy slime brand tubes or just buy the slime and inject it in through your valve. It works almost instantly, I've seen it in action: people run over cactuses, there's an initial hiss of air for a split second, but then it stops all of a sudden as the slime gets in the hole and forms a patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T00:18:05.127" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T00:38:35.370" Score="0" ViewCount="3727" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at Amazon, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wahoofitness.com/devices/wahoo-rflkt-iphone-powered-bike-computer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wahoo RFLKT&lt;/a&gt; is half the price of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wahoofitness.com/devices/wahoo-rflkt-plus-iphone-powered-bike-computer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wahoo RFLKT+&lt;/a&gt;. What practical benefits would I actually miss out on if I just went with the Wahoo RFLKT? Any pros and cons of the two different models?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20008" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T12:37:57.710" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T15:22:50.703" Title="Is it worth buying a RFLKT+ or is the RFLKT good enough?" Tags="&lt;technology&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T01:30:57.760" Score="3" ViewCount="875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a hardly used road bike someone else had built up for a deal a few weeks ago, and am a bit disappointed with the fit - it's fine for rides less than a couple hours, but too aggressive for anything longer, for my tastes. In particular, the problem is that my saddle is about an inch and a half above my handlebars, even after inverting the 6 degree, 75mm stem that is installed currently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I purchased a 40 degree, 120mm stem to try and get the handlebars as high up as possible. However, I'm now a bit worried that having the handlebars so far from the steerer tube, which is carbon, will offer too much leverage and may cause the steerer to catastrophically fail when, for example, I ride out of the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this seem safe? Are there any guidelines for how long and steep a stem can be for safe use with a carbon steerer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I'm about 145 lbs and the fork is an Enve Road Fork 2.0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20009" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T22:28:47.370" Title="Is a long, high angle stem safe to use with a carbon steerer?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2015-06-16T02:13:42.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This Spring I decided to try out the Two Wheel Gear - Classic 2.0 Garment Pannier &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.twowheelgear.com/products/commuter-garment-pannier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.twowheelgear.com/products/commuter-garment-pannier&lt;/a&gt; after getting sick of my sweaty backpack system. I'm two months in and I think it is pretty awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worked like a breeze with my existing Blackburn rack. I pull my hangers out of my closet in the morning and hang them inside the bag (or pack it the night before so it is ready). There is a padded pocket for my 15 inch laptop inside the main compartment. I pack my socks, underwear, belt and cufflinks in the two top shoulder mesh pockets. I usually use 2 hangers most days just taking a collared shirt and dress pants (occasionally bringing my suit jacket) but have used it on a couple trips for weddings already where I have had to pack a few outfits (maybe 5 hangers) and it worked great. Used it as a carry-on for the plane and had no trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mounting system is one of the best I've seen and pops off the rack after I dis-engage the little locks. The pannier overall is really well balanced if you pack it evenly. Outside pockets I take a towel, toiletry kit, usually a pair of shoes, a small pump, spare tube and a few wrenches and some little stuff. The bag came with a nifty rain cover that clips on the outside when the weather is crap (but the bag itself is lined with a sweet waterproof coating). The rain cover inverts like a K-way jacket and wraps around the pannier and has a little a draw string. There is one super handy zipper on the outside of the rain cover I can stash my keys in that is plain brilliant I have never seen before. Some cool reflective on the bag and some useful little D-rings and clips to hang extra lights on. Only downside is when using it as a carry-on travel bag it is a little tricky to get at the inside laptop pocket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, it has become my travel luggage that I also use daily. Pretty terrific if you need to pack your clothes in each day. Otherwise, get a dry cleaner close to your office and leave your clothes at work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20011" LastEditorUserId="20011" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T20:22:02.657" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T20:22:02.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T05:31:00.623" Score="5" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have owned a dynamometric wrench for two years now, and I got it second-hand in the first place. I fear that relying on its indication could be even less accurate than tightening by intuition. For example, I know that oscilloscopes need to be tuned once per year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How can I measure the accuracy and precision of my wrench?&lt;/em&gt; I have a tape measure and a low-end electronic scale (rated 45kg+-10g, but I have noticed deviations as much as 50g between measurements of 2kg parts), plus a wide range of inserts for the wrench. This is a 20Nm-100Nm piece of equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T22:12:02.707" LastActivityDate="2017-04-06T10:06:13.203" Title="How can I assess my torque wrench?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31321" CreationDate="2015-06-16T06:49:46.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;attach an extension that can be clamped in a vise such that the handle of the torque wrench is horizontal, and its own weight is applying torque that attempts to rotate the extension around its axis&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;using some wire or string, attach an empty 1 liter plastic bottle to the handle of the torque wrench&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;adjust the setting of the wrench such that it's own weight (+ the empty bottle) is just enough to cause it to &quot;click&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;increase the setting by an amount such as 3Nm (on a wrench that is 30 cm long, this would correspond to a weight of 9N which is slightly under 1kg)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;add water to the bottle until the wrench clicks again&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;measure the mass of the water added and compare to the expected amount based on the torque setting increase and the length of the handle of the wrench&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only missing part is that we don't know if the initial setting (corresponding to the torque of the wrench's own weight) is accurate.  You could find the center of the mass and measure its distance from the point where sockets are attached to the wrench, then calculate the torque from the weight and distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T06:49:46.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31270" CreationDate="2015-06-16T09:09:12.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is old grease with debris in it, this will be shavings of the bearings and their channel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before re-greasing the headset you will need to degrease it to remove all of the old grease, otherwise the old grease will attack the new grease rendering it less effective. &#xA;Then once degreased you will then need to clean out all of the degreaser (again so it doesnt attack the new grease) and dry it out. &#xA;Then you can add the new grease, the thicker and gloopier the better &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19937" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T09:09:12.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31295" CreationDate="2015-06-16T12:40:45.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The larger chainring reduces drive chain friction - so is more efficient. This article from &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2010/04/the-big-ring-mechanical-or-psychological-advantage/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cyclingtips&lt;/a&gt; lists a study which demonstrated this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the effects of this in the peleton where riders like Froome are favouring assymetric rings to give them periods of greater efficiency and reduced torque during pedalling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19935" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T12:40:45.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31327" CreationDate="2015-06-16T16:22:07.267" Score="3" ViewCount="9108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just ordered and received my bike with FSA Tempo CK-200 crankset and Shimano Saint MX80 pedals (really good deal). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just received and it seems that they do not fit with crankset! The spindle on pedals is too big. I probably could forcefully put them on, however i believe I would break stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before ordering i read online and it seemed that all new bikes (road/cyclocross) have the same size and it should fit just perfect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not. What size do i need? I tried googling FSA Tempo CK-200, but I cannot find any information!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13357" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T22:23:35.460" Title="Can pedals not fit the crankset?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31325" CreationDate="2015-06-16T17:04:31.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure? Pedal size is pretty standard.  There is a right and a left.  If you are worried about marring up threads maybe start on the back side.  And grease the threads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T17:04:31.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T19:05:35.503" Score="1" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;A month ago, I got my first flat tire on the back tire on my electronic bike and I have fixed it, it was a Nail. Yesterday I got it again, it was a hole in the whole tire, so I changed the tire and the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today  I got it again but I see no hole in the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think it is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20016" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T14:44:51.517" Title="Electronic bike keeps getting flat tire on the back" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T20:22:19.170" Score="0" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front quick release lever of my Mongoose Threshold is missing or broken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the year of the bike and do not know how to determine it. There is a sticker that says ATB4130, another one that says &quot;All Terrain&quot; and 32&quot; size. The tires are 26&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just buy a new skewer, or just replace lever? How do I know skewer size to buy or can I repair what I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20018" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T09:38:45.290" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T09:38:45.290" Title="Mongoose Threshold 2nd hand" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31329" CreationDate="2015-06-16T20:46:40.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quick release lever is standard and you should just be able to pick one up second hand or from your local bike shop.  Make sure you get the one for the front and not for the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14651" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T20:46:40.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-16T20:47:59.397" Score="2" ViewCount="707" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Campagnolo from 1997 that I want to turn into an single speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is finding a kit that will fit the freehub. The outer diameter of this freehub including teeth is 34 mm, but when I find a kit like this one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/400876993505&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/400876993505&lt;/a&gt; the dimensions are off. The cog I bought from ebay has a smaller diameter that the freehub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I be looking for when it's an old 1997 screw-on freehub? Would it be easier just to replace the freehub, and if yes, which one should I pick to make sure it's going to fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measuring the freehub&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGxPj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;measuring freewheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13489" LastEditorUserId="13489" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T19:30:20.243" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T13:05:43.677" Title="Finding a single speed kit for an old campagnolo from 1997 with screw on freehub" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31258" CreationDate="2015-06-17T03:01:17.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano doesn't make parts available for repairs. If you're under warranty, you could ask your LBS to have it swapped out for a new/refurb. Your LBS might also have a used or like-new in their parts bin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, what most people do is to step up and buy a new shifter/brifter. The prices are such that it makes sense to buy above Sora and to get a Tiagra or 105 series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T03:01:17.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31328" CreationDate="2015-06-17T03:34:17.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Head to your local bike shop and ask them to replace your tube with one that has a removable core. Then add some (1-2 oz) Stan's Sealant inside the tube. Air it up, give it a good spin and you will have a tire/tube that can withstand most punctures from random automobile road detritus.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.infinitecycles.com/2013/05/adding-stans-no-tubes-sealant-to-tubes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This looks like a good how to.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3015" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T03:34:17.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31328" CreationDate="2015-06-17T04:42:46.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an e-bike with a rear hub-motor (and with the battery pack over the rear tire), you should note that you have considerable unsprung weight on that rear tire. You should try to make sure that you have the tires properly inflated -- on the high end of the maximum PSI the tire can handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to ask your LBS when you're replacing the tire what type of puncture you're getting. If you are getting pinch flats, then you need to think about inflating your tires to a higher pressure. If that's not possible, you can also explore getting wider tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're getting road debris punctures, then kevlar belted tires will help. Also, as ow3n notes, having some sealant inside your tube might help although I find that this often just creates a huge mess when you get a flat that is too large for the sealant to contain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T04:42:46.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31318" CreationDate="2015-06-17T05:05:00.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a RFLKT+ which I use with &lt;a href=&quot;https://abvio.com/cyclemeter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cyclemeter&lt;/a&gt;. The significant differences are the altimeter and the ANT+ bridge. The reason why I bought it was so that I could use ANT+ sensors, specifically the &lt;a href=&quot;https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/shop-by-accessories/fitness-sensors/bike-speed-sensor-and-cadence-sensor/prod146897.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Garmin magnet less speed and cadence sensors&lt;/a&gt;. The altimeter seems to be very sensitive and enables more or less real time grade display – just in case you want to know why you're miserable climbing a hill :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't need those features, then I don't think there is a reason to by the plus version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing that I'd add is that the connection to ANT+ sensors is not as robust as I'd like. I find that I have to pay attention to the sequence in which I wake up the sensors and start the app to ensure that everything works. It seems like the sensor discovery process can take quite a while (maybe as much as a minute) which adds to the aggravation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is a RFLKT+ thing, an ANT+ bridge thing, a Garmin thing, or a Cyclemeter thing… But if the fiddling with hardware and software isn't your thing this would be another reason to lean towards the RFLKT (the Bluetooth link seems much more robust).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T15:22:50.703" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T15:22:50.703" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10713" CreationDate="2015-06-17T05:32:35.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I  approach this is to equalize the tension by sound (my ear is terrible so I use an app for the iPhone called &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/spoke-tension-gauge/id518870820?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spoke Tension Meter&lt;/a&gt;). I start by picking an average tension and adjusting all of the spokes towards that tension. That usually throws the wheel out of true. Then I go around retruing the wheel checking tensions as I go – aiming for a true wheel with relatively even tensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the question above about the actual tension vs having balanced tensions, what matters most if the balance – that is what creates a stable structure. The actual tension value seems to be a ±10 or even ±20 percent thing (based on the specs of good tensiometers and a post Park's site called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/wheel-tension-measurement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wheel Tension Measurement&lt;/a&gt;). Based on my limited experience with the iPhone app you can match tensions very closely (±1 count).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not sure about the calibration of your tensiometer I would think that you could get close to a decent number by having someone of similar weight to the user of the wheel sit on the bike with the wheel mounted. This will load the wheel and you can check spoke tension under load. You don't want to see a change in tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T15:08:16.517" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T15:08:16.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31328" CreationDate="2015-06-17T07:49:12.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you replace the tyre with a tough (kevlar belted) touring tyre this is likely to deal with debris punctures. These are more likely if the tyre is quite compressed as it rolls because of the flatter contact patch. In addition a touring tyre will be able to run at a higher maximum pressure than a similarly-sized city / general-purpose tyre as was probably supplied, reducing the likelihood of pinch flats. So I suggest a marathon plus tyre on the back - probably around a 35mm or equivalent. I'd put one on the front at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also don't forget to unweight the saddle on bent legs as you go over rough stuff (potholes etc.). You might of course just have been unlucky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T14:44:51.517" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T14:44:51.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31236" CreationDate="2015-06-17T15:17:32.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the two answers citing the Highway Code - the key words are 'perfectly entitled'. The answer is 'No'. The HC does not have the force of Law in the UK, but infractions of the Code will be taken into account if a driver's actions result in an accident or an intervention by the Police.&#xA;Drivers have a duty of care to other road users, and overtaking without leaving sufficient clearance puts other road users (in this case - you) in danger. It's worth noting that a number of the cycle fatalities on London's roads over the past few years have occurred at junctions where the cyclist was attempting a left turn and was 'overtaken' by another vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution for the cyclist is to move to a 'control' position in the centre of the lane about 5 to 10 metres out from the junction, thus forcing following vehicles to remain behind. Do not wait at the kerb edge or creep up on the inside of waiting traffic. This is why many junctions have marked cycle space in front of the lane. You maintain the 'control' position all the way around the turn, returning to a normal riding position of around a metre out from the Kerb when it is safe to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'control' position is taught by Bikeability instructors as part of the Government recognised cycle instruction programme offered in UK schools. It's not just for kids, it works, use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20022" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T15:17:32.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31339" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T15:22:10.377" Score="2" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to do &quot;track stands&quot; while sitting down. Standing up makes it harder to balance and doesnt feel right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to do a track stand while sitting down? Should I just stop trying this and learn to do it the right way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This reminds me a bit about how I didnt use the &quot;home row&quot; to touch type for a very long time, then I concentrated on &quot;doing it right&quot; and was surprised by how easy it was to learn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4243" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T02:48:25.977" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T02:48:25.977" Title="Doing track stand while sitting?" Tags="&lt;trackstand&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30477" CreationDate="2015-06-17T15:35:56.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rack I ended up getting was the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.racktime.com/product.php?xn=11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Racktime Top-It&lt;/a&gt;. It mounts the light on the centerline in front of the rack just below the top deck of the rack. This is pretty much where Peter White says the light is designed to go. There is just enough room to mount a B&amp;amp;M Cyo, a bigger light probably wouldn't fit. The location is good, it pretty well eliminates the shadow of your front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a photo from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecovelo.info/2011/12/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EcoVelo&lt;/a&gt; that shows the rack and light pretty well. On a Kona Sutra the rack mounts a bit lower and further forward (to get the rack deck level). I ran the wires up the diagonal strut inside a length of aluminum tubing to protect them from the pannier hooks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/POy9f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/POy9f.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ecovelo.info/images/20111219a3-1000.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ecovelo.info&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T12:21:23.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31339" CreationDate="2015-06-17T15:48:13.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I probably don't do &quot;proper&quot; track stands since I don't ride a fixed gear bike, but if you can find a bit of a hill at a stop then you can kind-of-sort-of do a track stand (you pedal up the hill and let gravity pull you back down). Sometimes the crown of the road is enough…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I always sit, I didn't know you were supposed to stand, so I'd say keep working on it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T15:48:13.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31245" CreationDate="2015-06-17T15:57:50.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, the question is kind of vague (as others have pointed out) and it would help if you could say more about the (apparent) source and timing of the noises, but I just wanted to add a couple of thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I chased what I thought was a bottom bracket / crank arm clunk for quite a while before I noticed that my saddle wasn't clamped well. I'd moved it back as far as it could go (or actually a bit farther) and the seatpost wasn't able to get a solid grip on anymore due to the bend of the seat rails. I would still swear that the sound was coming from the bottom bracket…&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My cleats are noisy. I figured this out one day when I rode with shoes without cleats. The noise seems to be specific to the particular shoes / pedals combination. Don't have any noise with the same shoes on a different bike with the same make/model of pedal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T04:14:12.213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T04:14:12.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31328" CreationDate="2015-06-17T16:45:44.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a string of bad luck. Two punctures within a month is not unheard of, especially if you're riding in city or other area where debris on the road is common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last flat tire is most likely to be problem with installation of the new tire and inner tube. Possible trouble areas are pinched inner tube, valve not lining up properly with hole in rim or something caught between inner and outer tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can, check the location of the leak in inner tube and see if you can find any marks at the same place in the inside of tire. A bit of stone etc caught between the tire and tube can break the tube but doesn't make a hole in the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19611" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T16:45:44.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31245" CreationDate="2015-06-17T18:59:56.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a tiny amount of movement between the cassette and the freehub.  Try putting some grease on the freehub splines, and (more importantly) make sure the cassette lockring is tightened to the correct torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if the noise occurs on all cogs of the cassette, or just on a few cogs.  I had a case where there was a crunching noise only on the 3 largest cogs, which were joined into a single unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T18:59:56.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31349" CreationDate="2015-06-17T20:19:50.213" Score="10" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been toying with the idea of joining competitive amateur (road) cycling for a while, but am unsure as to if the sport is right for me: I'm in very good shape and enjoy &quot;basic&quot; road cycling as well as weekend trips, but I have not joined any sort of cycling clubs because I don't feel like a Cyclist™.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to quit my day job-- I just want to have some competitive fun with other cyclists, and I don't know if &quot;fun&quot; in itself is a realistic expectation for official competitive events-- is this achievable, or is competitive cycling only for the most gung-ho?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cycling community&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the atmosphere like in most cycling clubs and at larger competitive events?-- are people in pelotons generally friendly, supportive, etc. or does everyone basically hope the others get hit by a bus so they end up winning? Do people e.g. go for a drink together afterwards? I don't know anyone who cycles as arduously as me, so I'd have to &quot;find&quot; some &quot;cycling buddies&quot;, and am not sure how much of the &quot;buddy&quot; part I can expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Technological competitiveness&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated above, I have no intention of making a career of cycling, and I see little reason to spend e.g. $10,000 on a hobby. Some people enjoy spending that much on something they will ride at 10kph on Sundays, but I have neither the capacity nor the willingness to do so. However, at local (amateur) competitive rides, I have pretty much only seen ridiculously expensive carbon-fiber/aluminium bikes and lots of flashy Lycra. There is nothing stopping me from riding e.g. a 40-year-old bike at such a race, but it's also no fun to be struggling at the back of the pack when others are whisking along effortlessly. In the end, fitness trumps technology, but, basically, I'd have to be &lt;em&gt;ridiculously&lt;/em&gt; fit to keep up in a pack of 5kg bikes with brifters on my 15kg down-tube 10-speed. How &quot;good&quot; should my setup be in order to enjoy such an event and easily stay with the pack?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8685" LastEditorUserId="8685" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T21:36:20.050" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T17:12:56.193" Title="I don't want to be the next Eddy Merckx; Is competitive cycling right for me?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;race&gt;&lt;advice&gt;&lt;competition&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T20:23:04.790" Score="5" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;A town near my home has a (moderately hilly) 50-mile bike ride in the summer every year. Last year on the ride, someone told me I should have been drinking significantly more water the day before to &quot;pre-hydrate&quot;, as my body was expending more water due to exertion and heat than I could recover by drinking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? Should I drink more water the day before a tough ride? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/view/370801975&quot;&gt;this is the route&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20027" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T00:50:07.713" Title="Should I drink more water the day before a tough ride?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31346" CreationDate="2015-06-17T21:33:24.343" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;More&quot;  - more than what - if you are already an '8 litre a day' person, no it will not help. If you are like me (too much coffee, drink when I am thirsty), an extra couple of litres spread evenly over the day will be a good thing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be careful not to over hydrate as it will change the balance of electrolytes in you system and could lead to problems such as cramping. A litre extra over a day won't be an issue, but more than that, use a proper electrolyte drink (Not the lolly water sold at supermarkets as 'sports' drinks - if it tastes good, its not electrolyte).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch out for too much water causing you get up for the toilet all night and miss out much needed sleep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary - a little more than usual is probably good, too much more is not so good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T21:33:24.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31345" CreationDate="2015-06-17T21:59:02.493" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace &quot;cycling&quot; in this question with any competitive sport. How should we know if it's right for you? How should we know what the community of cyclists near you is like, or whether or not you'll get along with them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enter a race. Did you have fun? Enter another one. Or don't. Your call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T21:59:02.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31345" CreationDate="2015-06-17T22:37:54.470" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Treating &quot;competitive cyclists&quot; as this single unified group (with three subgrouping) belies some  prejudices.  Like all walks of life there are a diversity of people, all with different motivations, morals and life experiences.  As such there is no single correct answer your various questions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;are people in pelotons generally friendly, supportive, etc. or does&#xA;  everyone basically hope the others get hit by a bus so they end up&#xA;  winning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes to both.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do people e.g. go for a drink together afterwards, or do they put&#xA;  their $10,000 bike in its own personal transport before being&#xA;  chauffeured back to their hotels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes to both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Anecdote for the good in people&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have met many great people in competitive cycling who were very friendly and helpful.  For example, during one long, hot road race a professional rider (who I trained with) waited for me after I got caught in a crash (one of our juniors collided with another member took out our whole team!).  He helped first made sure everyone was ok, then we worked together to get back into the peloton. He didn't need to, and it was a lot of extra work for him to do so as it took us nearly a lap to catch back in.  He still went on to podium that race, but maybe he would have won.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Anecdote for the bad in people&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a number of years back when I moved to a new location my first club ride encounter was rather nasty, with a rider threatening to brake check me into the ditch if I drafted him again before the sprint.  It turned out it was the club that was toxic. They even  maligned and mistreated an amazingly friendly and fast former pro from Europe who had recently retired and moved to the area.  Racing pro in Europe is damn hard, the fact he was willing to give his time and energy to the local community was cool, that club had no idea what they were passing up. The ex-pro ended up starting his own club and superseding the toxic club.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Take Home&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no single unifying experience that makes up competitive cycling.  There are definitely &quot;gun-ho&quot; types.  (It is a competitive sport after all).   Some are abrasive, some are are outgoing and nice, some are reclusive... you get the idea.  Like any competitive sport you will get encounter more Type-A types than you would in regular life.  But that is sort of the point, isn't it?  You are looking for other people to be competitive with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best advice would be to shop around.  If your area has a lot of clubs, do a trial ride with each club to see which one jives with you best.   Some are competitive, some are recreational, some do both.  Some people in the clubs are amazingly friendly and kind, some others are less so.  Also make sure to try and shelve some of your prejudices about &quot;competitive cyclists&quot;. Sure some spend too much money on bikes (the bike industry really pushed that hard), but there are many who are quite sensible and still very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like all of life, you gotta pick and choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally to answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How &quot;good&quot; should my setup be in order to enjoy such an event and&#xA;  easily stay with the pack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally ride a steel bike and have no problems keeping up on fast rides (i.e., 40+ kph). Whether or not you stay with the pack has a lot to do with your base fitness, your max power threshold, how you ride (i.e., positioning in the pack and length and frequency of pulls), how well you anticipate moves within the pack  and the condition of your gear.  If your equipment is not kept up well, doesn't fit, or is highly inefficient then it becomes a hinderance.  Without knowing what you ride this question is too open ended to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS.  Quitting your job happens when the nice hobby becomes an unhealthy obsession. That said, others would argue you have simply dropped the shackles of societal expectations and become a free spirt.  All I know is that my kids still need to eat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T22:49:47.467" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T22:49:47.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T22:41:00.283" Score="3" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just wanna know if I can take off one of the chainrings for this crankset before I buy it off craigslist. Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oq2MB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PLxcz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;enter image description here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j5d4o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19743" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T23:01:07.413" Title="Double crank to single?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31350" CreationDate="2015-06-17T23:01:07.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If what you want is to run a single chainring setup, then yes, it is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you may need some spacers, five in this case, to make up for the thickness of the removed gear. This spacers may be simple washers, but they have to closely match the hole diameter of the chainring and, of course, the thickness.&#xA;You can also cut them from sacrificial chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the option to find single chainring specific bolts, but some vendors may offer them at a higher price than the crankset you want to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T23:01:07.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31321" CreationDate="2015-06-18T00:04:37.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best option is to buy a digital torque wrench adapter (for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motorcyclecloseouts.com/extras/motorcycle+tools/bikemaster_digital+torque+wrench+adapter?utm_source=gps&amp;amp;utm_medium=csn&amp;amp;utm_term=Digital%20Torque%20Wrench%20Adapter&amp;amp;utm_campaign=extras-motorcycle%20tools&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKEAjwtYSsBRCDx6rM1v_uqmsSJAAZgf2qvUxvwJodXfF4Xvra71rw1Jw4cuRrmUKs0Vm0jpdYYRoCIoHw_wcB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) and check if your wrench &quot;clicks&quot; when the adapter is showing the desired value. It's a bit pricey, but that's how it is, and you can use it many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also send it to a specialized place that do that for you, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teamtorque.com/torque_wrench.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, but although I am not sure how much this costs, it should be (much more) pricier than buying the digital adapter, and you will have to do it again eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also do something like @Nik suggested, which is similar to what you can find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-a-Torque-Wrench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but I think this is difficult to do right and worse, it's very error-prone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T00:04:37.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T05:13:29.960" Score="5" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally you let the bicyclist/walker/jogger ahead of you know that you are about to pass them by shouting &quot;passing&quot; or even by just ringing the bell on your bike. This is done as a courtesy since many people do get scared/shocked if someone just zooms by them without notice. It's also a safety issue since the person could accidentally or knowingly go to the left side of the path and you'd run into them.  For example, they could see a cute duckling on the left grass and start walking over towards it forgetting about looking behind them and bam, an accident! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ride to the right on multi-use paths and warn other cyclists, walkers, runners and path users before overtaking and passing them. Call out “passing” or ring your bike bell.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicyclecolorado.org/learn/colorado-bicycle-laws/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://bicyclecolorado.org/learn/colorado-bicycle-laws/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IcBq8s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, now a days many people (usually younger people) will be blasting music in their ears through their headphones. So I've noticed that many times these people don't hear me shouting at them that I'm passing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's three options I've came up with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I could just keep going at the same fast speed and just blame them if they get hit since they are the ones that thought their music was more important than safety or listening to the sounds of nature. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I could slow down to a safer speed and slowly pass them reducing the chances of an accident.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I could carry some small pebbles with me and then just chuck 1 or 2 of them about 6-8 feet ahead of them to grab their attention.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really prefer any of these three options, is there a better way to grab their attention when shouting doesn't work, while maintaining the same faster speed?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Dronehinge" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T11:26:22.377" Title="Grabbing the attention of the person ahead of you while bicycling" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31346" CreationDate="2015-06-18T00:50:07.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before any ride you should be &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; fueled - eaten appropriate food, enough of it, and drunk enough to be fully hydrated. See the answer by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/31347/8273&quot;&gt;mattnz&lt;/a&gt; regarding electrolytes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just before you start have a good drink, then drink a little and often on the ride, before you feel dry or thirsty. After the ride make sure you drink plenty, and eat a balanced meal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But perhaps you aren't normally properly hydrated (like most people), and this caused a problem last year. If that's the case, then it's not just the day before - it should be &lt;em&gt;every day!&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.care2.com/greenliving/8-common-myths-about-dehydration.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kidney damage&lt;/a&gt; due to lack of hydration is common. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether a given ride is tough or not depends on two things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;your cycling fitness at the time&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the weather at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MapMyRide page you link to is a bit deceptive, suggesting that the climbs are around 2%. On Strava I see that there are multiple short climbs of 6-7-8%, some of 10-12%, and a few short pitches up to 16%. I see that the longest climb is in the last 5km. Most people would agree that those steeper gradients can be tough, so I would focus on some climbing practice, rather than worry about water. Manage the water, build your strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summer the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bestplaces.net/climate/city/new_york/perry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;climate&lt;/a&gt; in Perry is very mild (82°F, 28°C), so unless it's unusually hot or windy, it will not be an issue. Just carry two full bottles of water from the start. You didn't ask about food, but it looks like a one-banana ride to me. Eat half after an hour, the other half an hour later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T00:50:07.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31360" CreationDate="2015-06-18T04:29:34.447" Score="4" ViewCount="4545" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to bikes and I realized  the back tire valve is missing the top part of the valve , I inflated it but when I unscrew the pump it completely deflates. Can I buy that &quot;screw&quot; or I have to change the entire tube. How are they called ? Or where to buy them. If I add an adapter for for Schrader will solve the problem &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rJP0B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20033" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T20:33:02.390" Title="Presta valve top screw missing" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;valves&gt;&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T04:56:41.583" Score="0" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran a squeaky chain for a while on my bike and subsequently destroyed the chain and the cassette. Both were swapped out at the exact same time for a new chain and cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am afraid that the chainrings have been damaged. I suspect that the chainrings have been damaged because it's only been about two months with my new chain and I am not a frequent rider. I ride in almost pristine conditions - I ride on regularly maintained roads and have NEVER gotten a puncture on the road I put in most of my miles on. I only put about 500 miles (if that) on this chain. The path is dry and the only objection that one might be able to raise is that it's slightly dusty at some points. The only maintenance I've done is a few squirts of White Lightning Semi-Dry Lube after breaking in the chain. It came to me pretty greased up so I left it as is until I rode it for a fair bit before giving it a quick shot of lube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm pretty surprised that my chain looks to be pretty worn judging from a quick ruler measurement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the attached pictures I have lined up the 0 marking on my ruler with the end of a roller and from what I've read online, if a chain is new, the 12&quot; marking of the ruler should be covering up most if not all of a roller. On my chain the 12&quot; marking is barely covering up a roller. I've taken the chain off the bike, yes, but I've stretched it when laying it across the ground. Even on my bike where the chain has been tensioned, the 12&quot; end of the ruler still fails to cover up the roller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also did an informal test in which I shifted the bike into the big chainring and pulled on the chain to see how many teeth I could expose. I saw at least 3-4 partially exposed teeth with this method. I read that if you can see more than half an exposed tooth, then your chain is stretched. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I consider replacing the entire crank or just replace the middle chainring - the one I use 99% of the time? I have a Campagnolo triple crankset, 9 speed. It's also square taper. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or should I just start leaving the chain on the big chainring which has seen probably no more than 5 miles (seriously)? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my chain really stretched? I read that some chains show a high initial stretch reading when new, but this isn't really an indication that they're done for. I have a KMC chain if that matters. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GKWS4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/stVqU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastEditorUserId="14039" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T05:09:15.397" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T05:57:28.363" Title="Time to replace chainring?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31358" CreationDate="2015-06-18T05:32:13.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler at the side of one link pin, then looking at the corresponding link pin 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, &lt;strong&gt;this link pin will also line up exactly with an inch mark&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can see in the second photo, the &lt;strong&gt;edge of the ruler&lt;/strong&gt; represents the 12 inch mark, which lines up exactly with the middle of the pin on the end of (what I assume is) the 12th link.  The chain looks fine to my eyes.  (For what it is worth it has been my experience that KMC chains are pretty tough.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difficulty with using a ruler is also why chain wear tools also exist, these also include wear on the rollers as part of the measurements (which measuring the inter-pin distance will not consider).  Worn rollers will affect the realized pitch of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your chain ring is too worn, the teeth will look like a shark fin and a new chain will slip under pressure.  For more info see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/429/does-this-chainring-need-to-be-replaced&quot;&gt;Does this chainring need to be replaced?&lt;/a&gt;  If your middle ring does go, I would suggest looking at replacing it before you change the whole crank set (Just my opinion!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T05:57:28.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31357" CreationDate="2015-06-18T05:49:36.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need is a valve core (provided the stem is threaded to take a removable valve core) [The question is, what happened to the original one?]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheapest option and easiest option is to just buy a new tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T20:33:02.390" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T20:33:02.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31363" CreationDate="2015-06-18T05:52:56.847" Score="8" ViewCount="771" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I got a new cyclocross bike and now I am daily commuting around 25km (not much, but daily) and I am trying to calculate my diet, calories etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am wondering if there is a good device or an android app that I could use precisely for: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tracking routes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mileages&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;calories burned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;data connects with popular apps/platforms or can be exported (that is a huge plus)!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have HTC One (m7), its a great phone and I would prefer to use it instead of buying some additional device. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking here because there are literally TONS of this stuff online and it just becomes so hard to identify what is actually useful, while you guys might suggest something :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13357" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T02:16:46.590" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T02:16:46.590" Title="What is the best way to track your mileage, routes and calories burned?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;smartphone-mount&gt;&lt;performance-tracking&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31361" CreationDate="2015-06-18T07:31:12.940" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several phone apps / web sites you can use. They all have a free mode and a premium mode. A few of them are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.endomondo.com/&quot;&gt;Endomondo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Last time I used this (a couple of years back) it was able to give real time updates and &quot;coaching&quot; on your performance. It can handle many different sports and activities.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mapmyride.com/&quot;&gt;MapMyRide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I haven't used this; some other people here do use it. Hopefully they'll say why.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.strava.com/&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I currently use this one. The main &quot;benefit&quot; is the social aspect, if you like to see what your friends are doing, and for them to see what you do. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe Endomondo and Strava do all that you say you want, and I expect that MapMyRide would do also. They all provide a data export feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T07:31:12.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31361" CreationDate="2015-06-18T08:57:47.160" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started using an android app called &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iforpowell.com/cms/index.php?page=ipbike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IPbike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you like tweaking settings and getting the items displayed &lt;em&gt;just right&lt;/em&gt; it could be good for you; if not, look elsewhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can apparently sync with Strava etc, though I don't use that feature, and can import routes.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It uses openstreetmap (a plus point for me as I've made a few contributions myself).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's designed to be a very configurable bike computer (I chuck the phone in my pannier). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It costs but there's a free trial long enough to get used to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will track multiple bikes including in my case a bike called &quot;running&quot;, though I haven't got it set up to do calories for running.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It supports ANT+ and BTLE in case you buy sensors for it; I haven't tried this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparisons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I didn't get on with the minimal info and huge map presented by the Strava android app.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I used to use cardiotrainer (multi-activity) to do almost exactly what you ask for, but the route export feature (online) doesn't seem to be supported any more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have anything to do with the app author, but I'm told he's very helpful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T11:30:33.827" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T11:30:33.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31584" CreationDate="2015-06-18T12:30:07.480" Score="1" ViewCount="810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about upgrading my bike Cube Aim 29 2013.&#xA;Current configuration described &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ru/en/cube-aim-29-hardtail-bike-2013/rp-prod111924&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;The bike is completely ok for short rides, but for longer rides doesn't feel comfortable. So I'm going to change saddle and pedals, but I also want to make it more suitable for off-road rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering Shimano components. Is it reasonable to buy something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ru/en/shimano-xt-m785-10-speed-double-groupset/rp-prod116657&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;XT M785 10 Speed Double Groupset&lt;/a&gt;? Or SLX level components would be enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the frame - it is in good condition and Cube uses the same frame for their higher-end hard-tail bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20013" LastEditorUserId="20013" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T07:53:54.547" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T08:56:55.250" Title="Upgrading Cube Aim 29 2013" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;groupsets&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T14:22:57.230" Score="6" ViewCount="4607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was cleaning my road bike (cannondale supersix evo) and noticed a marking on my chainstay and I'm not sure what it is. Scratching it is a little rough compared to the carbon around it. This was not there before&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did take my bike into the shop a few months ago, since the wheel was sitting really close to the non-drive side chainstay, and they said it was a non issue. This was when it only had a small scratch. Now it's turned into something like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be concerned? I have a big ride coming up and don't wanna miss it!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/oPpPW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are some pics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGBOw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zaQMJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mKhkI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20041" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T15:08:06.780" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T17:51:39.023" Title="What's this mark on my chainstay?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31353" CreationDate="2015-06-18T14:45:18.363" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you're looking for a different answer, and I'm not trying to be preachy, either.  This just touches on a subject that's been on my mind a lot lately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no fool-proof way to get pedestrians to move out of your way. No matter how loud your yell/bell/horn/brake noise is, there will always be a chance that someone won't react as you predict.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like vehicles on the road have an obligation to maneuver safely around us cyclists, we have an obligation to do the same with pedestrians. It's not the pedestrian's job to get out of your way. If you don't want to deal with pedestrians on MUPs, ride on the road or a cycling-specific path.  But if you're going to share a MUP with pedestrians, you have to slow down when passing if you can't get them to move over safely, period. The minor inconvenience you'll face is worth not injuring yourself and/or others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to mention how much better the working relationship between motorists, we cyclists, and pedestrians could be if we all practice what we preach to drivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6796" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T14:45:18.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T15:32:57.940" Score="2" ViewCount="1029" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear disc brakes will grab a little then release all together. I had tightened by cable at the brake handle so I loosened it but it still does the same. It is a Trek mechanical disc brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20042" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T01:34:01.477" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T19:33:56.487" Title="When I pull my disc brake handle the mechanical caliper will grab then release" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T16:19:30.093" Score="3" ViewCount="1732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new (second-hand) bike (Orbea Asphalt sport) and I was looking at the tire and found out it was a tubular tire, a Continental Grand Prix, but on the sides you can read 'only mount on a hooked rim'. Is it possible for a tubular tire to be mounted on a hooked rim? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20043" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T22:19:57.133" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:09:00.093" Title="Tubular tire on hooked rim" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31353" CreationDate="2015-06-18T17:28:57.437" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You already known the answer (2), but do not seem to care much for it.  The reality is that you are the fastest user on the shared path thus you bear the most responsibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When approaching, slow down to an appropriate speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make an attempt to notify (bell or calling out), even if they have head phones on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they do not respond or move, then further adjust your speed and position on the path appropriately to ensure you can safety pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you are moving faster, you have the most momentum and will therefore inflict the most damage in the event of an accident.  If the other party is unaware of your presence then you bear most of the responsibility here. (&lt;em&gt;A couple weeks ago I attended a multi-use path crash where one user had their face caved in due to the speed of the other user.  You would be surprised the damage that can be inflicted.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I would call out or ring a bell even if they may not hear you is liability in the event of an accident.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, it pains me that many complain about the way that some motorist bully cyclists on shared road ways, then go on and do the same to pedestrians or other slower users on shared pathways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T17:44:32.507" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T17:44:32.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T18:16:37.370" Score="3" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a seven day cycling session in the Alps coming up in about a month. Unfortunately, I've &lt;a href=&quot;https://app.strava.com/athletes/172933#activity-log&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;not been great&lt;/a&gt; about getting on the bike in the past month (or even the past year, to be honest). From many years of cycling, my fitness is still quite good — enough that I had a great double century last month, before I took a month-long break. But I'm still far short of where I'd like to be, especially in the climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do over the next month to maximize my climbing endurance for this trip? On average, a day will be about 8kft of climbing, with the biggest day being somewhere around 16kft. Should I be focusing on long-distance riding at endurance pace? Hour-long hill repeats? Something else? If you had a month to prepare, what would you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1442" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T15:30:44.683" Title="One Month to Build Endurance" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;climbing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31353" CreationDate="2015-06-18T18:32:11.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well there is only one rule - &lt;strong&gt;adjust your speed to the situation&lt;/strong&gt;. Doesn't matter if it's falling rocks, a sudden animal crossing road, people, deaf/earphone people, kids, oil on road behind corner...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't even have to use noises to notify people - it usually surprises them and they make sudden moves. Just pass them at safe distance with safe speed (I would pass elderly with greater speed than kids, because it's not likely they will move quickly into your trajectory).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your prediction and treat everything the same - have a total control what's around you and what can intersect your path, no matter what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19624" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T18:32:11.277" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T19:49:10.827" Score="2" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;It fell from the front hub/disc brake/fork area (most likely brake caliper) on my friend's bike which I'm servicing for the first time and I have no idea what they are!&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNYD6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T07:28:31.533" Title="What are these parts?" Tags="&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31370" CreationDate="2015-06-18T20:48:43.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tufo makes tubular clinchers.  Clement made something similar in the eighties, called the Ritmo, I believe.  I don't think Continental does, I'm pretty sure they're just regular clincher tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ride tubular tires on clincher rims in an emergency, but they'll roll off the wheel if you're not very careful in the corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T20:48:43.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="689" CreationDate="2015-06-18T21:05:03.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an awesome guide/story on everything you need to know about winter bike commuting. &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Frostbike&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; by Canadian cycling author Tom Babin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He takes you through his journey on starting to bike commute in harsh Canadian Winters. Now he speaks around the world on winter cycling and bike infrastructure. He dives pretty deep into the subject. Really interesting little read and you can get it on Amazon. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rmbooks.com/book_details.php?isbn_upc=9781771600484&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rmbooks.com/book_details.php?isbn_upc=9781771600484&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick overview: History/roots of the first winter cyclists (gold miners apparently using bikes to get around frozen rivers from different gold mine sites and towns), the best bikes and gear to use, all the pitfalls of starting out and the most winter bike friendly cities in the world. Any winter commuter (or person thinking about starting) will appreciate!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20011" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T21:05:03.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T22:02:40.190" Score="0" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does any one still make 26&quot; Mountain bikes? I'd also like to know what would happen If I tried 26&quot; wheels on a bike bought with 27.5 wheels. The 27.5 bike is just too big for me even with the smallest frame size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20047" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T00:09:46.377" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T15:56:19.120" Title="Mountain bike sizes" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31381" CreationDate="2015-06-18T22:31:21.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of bikes with the same wheelsize. A few companies, such as  Surly, still make mountain bikes with 26&quot; wheels. A lot make 27.5&quot; wheels, and a ton make 29&quot; wheel based bikes. I believe Jamis also made 26&quot; wheel bikes until quite recently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided the hub spacing is the same and you have disc brakes and an appropriate rotor, you can just slot in a 26&quot; wheel into a 27.5&quot; frame provided the spacing is the same (which it likely is). If you have rim brakes, they won't line up and you can't use the wheel. Note that the riding position and what not can change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people have done 69er or 96er bikes in the past where they've taken a 26 or 29&quot; frame and put in a wheel size of the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T22:31:21.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2028" CreationDate="2015-06-19T09:31:49.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a carbon road bike recently. All I did was walking into the LBS, asked a quote on that bike, the sales written down a number on a small piece of paper which was 10% off the MSRP, I said OK and handed over my credit card. some people claimed they have 20% off for a similar priced bike. My advise is don't go beyond your affordability and understand the margin the LBS has to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20054" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T09:31:49.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2015-06-19T10:05:45.670" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually have a full English breakfast and keep myself topped up with bananas, Mars Bars, plenty of water and even a can of Red Bull, then fish n chips afterwards. It doesn't hamper my performance! Mind you, I'm Lance Armstrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20056" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2017-02-15T23:51:38.947" LastActivityDate="2017-02-15T23:51:38.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8626" CreationDate="2015-06-19T12:10:28.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just switched to a road bike from a hybrid. On my first time out commuting into work this morning I arrived in 32 mins as opposed to 37 previously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight is a big issue. Newton's 2nd law F= ma or acceleration = Force / mass, so if your bike is twice as heavy then it will take twice as much effort to get up to a given speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you have resistance, rolling resistance and wind resistance. If resistance is greater then you will find it harder to accelerate and you will require additional effort to maintain a given speed. Rolling resistance is a function of the area of contact with the road and also the weight. Wind resistance is a function of the speed you are going, the area you are presenting as you travel forward and aero-dynamic nuances that are beyond our worries. You can see it's all worse for a hybrid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency plays a factor which is a measure of what proportion of effort you put in goes into forward momentum of the bike. Road bikes are optimised for this with stiff frames and an efficient riding position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We drop down gears when effort becomes too great and because the effort is greater on a hybrid you will not be able to maintain the same gear as the road guys. When you're in a lower gear you aren't going as fast, unless you compensate with a higher cadence (difficult to maintain if you're already struggling to keep up). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is good advice on here, but minimising the resistance, optimising your efficiency and improving your strength and fitness will only take you so far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hybrids are great, but they aren't road bikes. If speed over tarmac is your main aim then you'll never equal a road bike. That's the conclusion I came to anyway and so far I'm not changing my mind! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20057" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T12:10:28.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8626" CreationDate="2015-06-19T13:43:59.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me contradict some of the other answers here.  Weight is not going to make a lot of difference to your speed or endurance, so just ignore it.  If you don't believe me, try the following experiment:  Pack a 500g weight (about a pound) somewhere that you can comforetably carry it (e.g. in a backpack, or around your waist).  Go on a few rides and measure your speed.  The compare your speed without the weight.  You'll have to do a few experiments to get good experimental data.  The fact is your body weight fluctuates from day to day more than you're likely to be able to shave off your bike.  (remember F=ma applies to whole thing you're moving -- including your body weight, backpack, water, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other, ride geometry, aerodynamics, and power-efficiency can make a huge difference.  Here are some important factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clipless pedals : buck for buck experience tells me this is your biggest win.  It makes a big difference in power transfer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;frame stiffness:  while bike weight (unless your talking &gt;1kg) isn't going to make much difference, a stiff frame which allows for efficient power transfer will.  Changing your bike doesn't seem to be an option for you, but adjusting your seating position and height so you get most effective oomph from your pedalling is worth trying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aerodynamics makes a big difference for a strong headwind, or at higher speeds.    So drop bars, a longer stem, or possibly bar ends could help you out here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolling resistance can be a big factor too, and this is a cheap one to improve -- get kevlar bead, high pressure tires with a slick surface (if your current tires have a degree of knobbyness to them, you'll notice a big difference here).  Light tires make a  &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; bigger difference than frame weight because of rotational momentum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note weight, including rotational weight, only affect acceleration (and maybe climbing a teeny bit), not how much work it takes to maintain cruising speed.  Rolling resistance and wind resistance affect what your top speed is.  So if your can keep up with your colleagues cruising speed but not acceleration, focus on weight.  Otherise focus on aerodynamics and rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10911" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T13:43:59.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31389" CreationDate="2015-06-19T14:28:57.633" Score="4" ViewCount="2228" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some 1/8 chains and chainrings are sold as &quot;1/2 1/8&quot; and some as &quot;1 1/8&quot;. What is the first number describing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that practically all modern chains have a 1/2 inch pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20060" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T14:41:46.600" Title="'1 1/8' vs '1/2 1/8' chain/chainring" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;chainline&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31388" CreationDate="2015-06-19T14:41:46.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two measurements, given as pitch x width. The pitch is the distance between rollers and width is the width that the sprockets have to fit through. The pitch is generally 1/2&quot; on modern chains, but some old bicycles (esp. old track bicycles) use 1&quot; pitch chains (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skip-link_chain&quot;&gt;skip link&lt;/a&gt; or block chains). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The width changes depending on number of speeds (so you'll have a lower width for higher number of speeds). So single speeds will often use 1/8&quot; (some have sprockets designed for 3/32&quot; though, so you should check), 8 speed will use 3/32&quot; , higher number of speeds will use 11/128&quot; (11 speed), etc. [possibly different between manufacturers]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T14:41:46.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31390" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-19T15:00:18.147" Score="2" ViewCount="4617" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father is trying to repair his old '65 (we think) Schwinn 3 speed. The only problem is he has not been able to get a replacement nut for the rear wheel axle. Local hardware stores have been unable to identify what kind of thread it has, and we've had no luck finding any info online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know what it might be, or how/where to find out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20061" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T06:52:49.207" Title="What thread is the rear wheel axle nut?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31381" CreationDate="2015-06-19T15:49:06.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of mountain bikes with 26&quot; wheels, and they're not hard to find. I have no idea why you'd even ask that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have disk brakes, then yes, you can put on smaller wheels. The only problem with that: your cranks will be closer to the ground, so there's a greater chance of hitting your pedals when you're cornering or riding over a log or something. Depending on your bike and what you use it for, that may be something you can live with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T15:49:06.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31381" CreationDate="2015-06-19T15:56:19.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The size of a bike has very little to do with the wheel size. For example, if you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/instigator_2point0/geometry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surly Instigator&lt;/a&gt; with 26 inch wheels, the smallest size has an effective top tube of 55.5 cm, and a reach of 37.8 cm. Compare that to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/ca/en/bikes/mountain/cross_country/x_caliber/x_caliber_6/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek X-Calibre&lt;/a&gt; which on the smallest model uses 27.5 inch wheels but has an effective top tube of 52.5 mm and a reach of 35.2 cm.  For road cycling just about all riders use 700c wheels and they pretty much accommodate all riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting smaller wheels on a bike isn't going to change the reach which is a very important part of how a bike fits.  The standover height will be lower, but mountain bikes generally don't have a huge problem with standover height, and the seat can usually be dropped pretty low. And if you put smaller wheels on the bike, the bottom bracket and pedal clearance will be lower than designed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your height?  Which brands have you looked at?  Big brands such as Trek or Specialized have a large range of sizes. Some models use 29 inch wheels for the larger sizes, and 27.5 inch for the smaller sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T15:56:19.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31372" CreationDate="2015-06-19T16:31:06.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Appart from training you should make sure that you have enough easy gears available. Being able to pedal (relatively) easy with high cadence does make a lot of difference, both in efficiency and endurance. If your gears allow you to do that then I also don’t think that there is much specialiced training you can/should do for climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using something like the typical road bike gears with 53/39 chainrings and 11–25 cogs in the alps is a bad idea. But I guess you know that already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T16:31:06.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31295" CreationDate="2015-06-19T20:33:39.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's true that a larger chainring will have slightly less friction and thus slightly more efficiently, it's an extremely negligible amount, that you wouldn't be able to feel. More importantly, are your crankarm lengths different on the new crankset than the old? That makes a much bigger difference. For example, if you've went from 175's to 170's, that will be a noticeable difference that could more likely explain what you're feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18973" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T20:33:39.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31372" CreationDate="2015-06-19T20:37:57.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you already have a great base, I think you will see the most benefit from doing some high intensity intervals and some moderate intensity hill repeats. Just remember to taper way down and don't do anything too intense in the week before your trip!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18973" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T20:37:57.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31398" CreationDate="2015-06-19T21:36:57.153" Score="3" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back between 2008 and 2010 I used a Garmin Edge 305 on my road and mountain bike. This was before Strava and overlays of routes on Google Maps so I would like to recover these rides and save them into my Strava. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Garmin is long gone, and the computer I had the software installed on has been long since replaced. However, I do have a full backup of the hard drive. I was wondering what kind of files would the Garmin software have created, and where it saved those files. I do not recall the name of the software that was used. However, I do remember it being pretty crappy and laggy. This was most likely all done on a Windows XP or Windows Vista.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - Did the Garmin save each route as a file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.1 - What type of file was it? Were they bundled in one big file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.2 - If so, what folder would I found that file?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14679" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T02:51:23.537" Title="Where can I find the maps my Garmin Edge 305 made?" Tags="&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31397" CreationDate="2015-06-20T02:51:23.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://static.garmincdn.com/pumac/967_OwnersManual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Garmin Edge 205/305 Owner's Manual&lt;/a&gt; makes it clear that any data that was not saved using the Garmin Training Center Software would be overwritten when the device is full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.garmin.com/garmin/cms/cache/offonce/us/intosports/training_center&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Garmin Training Center Software&lt;/a&gt; was last updated Aug 25, 2011. The Windows version ran on XP, but it can still be downloaded by following the links. You'd have to test if it will work on a current OS (but see the next para).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Garmin has a page explaining &lt;a href=&quot;https://support.garmin.com/support/searchSupport/case.faces?caseId=%7Ba048a720-4f31-11dc-4733-000000000000%7D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Where is the history data for Training Center located?&lt;/a&gt; That page seems to suggest that the software works on Windows 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the data you want is present on your backup as .TCX files, then you can just upload it to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.strava.com/upload&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Works for multiple .tcx, .fit or .gpx files 25MB or smaller. Choose up to 25 files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't see .TCX files then you'll have to dig deeper. From what I see the data can be stored in .TCD files, perhaps compressed &lt;em&gt;a la&lt;/em&gt; zip. Install the Garmin Training Center Software and see if it can extract the data you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T02:51:23.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-20T04:03:04.953" Score="1" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Specialized Langster, size 50cm. I replaced the brake calipers years ago with older-style Shimano 105 single-pivot sidepull brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes have never been very powerful. Worse yet, the rear brake caliper fixing bolt seems pretty short and the brake sits close to the seat stay bridge, resulting in very little clearance between the pads and the seat stays. This severely limits which pads I can use because most pads bang up against the seat stays and ding it repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of replacing the brakes with newer, dual pivot 105's for better stopping power. Is there a way I can tell if those brakes will fit or not before I order them (ie what measurements do I need to know and compare with the newer 105 dual pivots?). Also, I'm wondering if those brakes would provide enough clearance for 28mm tires. I would appreciate your thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20068" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T05:32:01.590" Title="Rear brake pad clearance problem on '06 Specialized Langster" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;pads&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-20T07:13:28.740" Score="5" ViewCount="2165" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, I'm little bit worried about the compatibility of my crankset and the bottom bracket. The crankset is Truvativ Isoflow, the BB is BB-UN55 (Square taper). Yesterday, after the bike hit +1400 km mark, I scheduled maintenance for the crankset. I disassemble the crank arms and the BB, cleaned them, apply grease (I use Phill Wood), and reassemble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I removed the crank arms, I didn't need a crank puller at all. This made me worried that the crank arms might be loose. So what I might want is tigthen the crank bolts. However, on the drive side, the right crank arm already hit &quot;the limit&quot; (see an image below) so it wouldn't go any further in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the best of my knowledge and according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/K0ewHswssE5erjJ9XhjmFho7dYzXNz49JbREb5_ed3k/mtime:1372788170/sites/default/files/techdocs/2003_cr-4arm-e-r4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this specification document&lt;/a&gt;, the BB should be compatible with the crankset. Its spindle width is 113mm to achieve 48.5mm chainline (The bike is a single speed), see a table on the bottomleft of the pdf document.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution I found on the web is not applying grease on the spindle and the crankarm holes to increase friction. This is what I did. So think the crankarms are tighter right now. So far I have no problem, no creaking noise, and I doubt the crank arms will be fall off anytime soon. However, I'm not sure whether I'll have problems in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put some more information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;according to the pdf document, the crankset is compatible with&#xA;truvativ LE square taper BB which has JIS interface. The UN55 also have  JIS. So the crankarms and the BB should be compatible, right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I built the bike in April, I was noob so I put too much grease &#xA;on the spindle. I think this was the reason why the crankarms fell&lt;br&gt;&#xA;off easily. That's why I didn't grease the spindle yesterday.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s2z5s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T17:49:34.490" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:32:20.420" Title="I can remove crank arms without a crank puller, is this a problem? I'm worried the crankarms might be loose" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-20T11:50:55.300" Score="2" ViewCount="1303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like having my front brakes very close to the rim (see image) as it makes it much easier to brake, especially when on the hoods or long descents.  I recently swapped to Continental GP4000 25mm tires on Mavic CXP 22 rims and the tires seem to be much wider than my previous stock Felt All weather 25 mms.  When I want to take the wheels off, I need to loosen the brake cable in addition opening up there brake calipers. This is of course very annoying and seems abnormal to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;105 shifters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano calipers with no model number&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOLuZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;brakes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14653" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T03:26:41.633" Title="Are my brakes too close to the rim?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31604" CreationDate="2015-06-20T16:42:21.817" Score="5" ViewCount="880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized Crosstour that is about 10 years old.  I rode it occasionally and never had a flat.  Then it hung in my garage for a couple of years.  When I took it down, the tires were flat and I couldn't shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It went for a tune-up.  Hours after getting it back, the front tire went flat.  There was a single small hole, so I applied a patch.  After sitting overnight, it was flat again.  The new hole was 2 inches from the previous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried patching it again. Before patching, I inspected the tube &amp;amp; tire.  I couldn't see anything and didn't feel anything sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second patch went flat, so I took it apart, and wiped down the rim, rim strip, and inside of the tire.  Never did I feel anything sharp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed a new tube this time.  This held for about 3 days, and then was flat again (I never rode the bike this time).  This time the hole was on the opposite side of the wheel as the previous holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases, it was a single hole on the spoke side and I aired the tires to 95 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only guess right now, is that I am causing the flat by pinching the tube when putting the tube in.  I air the tube up a little so it is round and am pretty careful when I put it in the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what to do next and what could explain the punctures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came home on Tuesday, and my wife had taken it to the bike shop to be repaired.  They didn't find anything and their new tube is still holding fine (3 days later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm forced to conclude that I was causing the hole by my poor installation technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The new tube install from the bike shop held for 3 days at about 30psi.  At least it was at 30psi before I aired them up to 95psi and rode 2 blocks on our street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next day, the front tire was flat again.  I haven't yet taken it apart to see where the hole is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I accepted Popup's answer because it seemed the most likely explanation.  I have replaced the rim tape with cloth tape AND used a thorn resistant tube.  I will do the same to the rear when I have an issue with the rear tire or tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19977" LastEditorUserId="19977" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T23:09:49.630" LastActivityDate="2020-09-01T20:38:37.983" Title="Tire Continually going flat" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31409" CreationDate="2015-06-20T16:45:33.597" Score="1" ViewCount="1119" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little context first: I'm going to be riding in the French Alps and plan to tackle some of the classic climbs (Alpe D'Huez, Galibier, etc) next month - I currently have a Campagnolo Athena 50/34 (compact) chainset paired to an Athena 11 speed 11-27 cassette on the rear. None of the drive-train components are anywhere near worn enough for that to be an issue. Additionally, the rear derailleur cage is able to deal with the full range of the 11-29 cassette so this is also not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am considering is swapping out the 11-27 cassette with an 11-29 to give myself a little extra in terms of 'safety gears' - better to be overgeared than undergeared in my opinion! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is this: will I have to replace the chain when replacing the cassette, for example due to chain length?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reasoning is that since I will only ever use the 29 tooth on the cassette with the 34 tooth chainring, that chain length should not be an issue. As above, the chain is not in need of replacement due to wear, so that is not part of the consideration. Perhaps I'm missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14635" LastEditorUserId="14635" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T07:41:58.097" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T07:41:58.097" Title="Chain length and cassette tooth count relationship" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-20T18:56:07.193" Score="-1" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old man next door painted his bike today. He took the deraileur off the bike to do so but did not remove his chain. The chain does not have a master link and neither one of us can  financially afford a chain tool or spare master link. Really I don't know what he has done to this thing. The chain is all knotted up way excessively. WAY!!LOL. I know the derailler is a sensitive piece but like I said with the financial situation I was hoping some one could give me instructions on how to get it back on there for him with out breaking the chain. Its very important to him and his helth. He is a recovering cancer patient and I hate to see him have to go with out his bike for a week or better until I get paid. If someone could help I'd really appreciate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20077" LastEditorUserId="20077" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T19:43:17.440" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T21:26:12.947" Title="Rear derailleur mess up PLEASE HELP. Im helping a 64 year old cancer patient. Very important" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14059" CreationDate="2015-06-20T20:34:08.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surprised there are not more studies on efficiency of clipless. The original question was to seek a scientific answer, not anecdotal, although many feel clipless gives more, this is subjective if not backed by science. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only article I found:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.radlabor.de/fileadmin/PDF/PowerForce/Mornieux___Stapelfeldt_Artikel_Feedback_Pedalkraefte_2008.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.radlabor.de/fileadmin/PDF/PowerForce/Mornieux___Stapelfeldt_Artikel_Feedback_Pedalkraefte_2008.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will be interesting if more research is done, given the fast increasing popularity of cycling here in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Abstract&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The aim of this study was to determine the influence&#xA;  of different shoe-pedal interfaces and of an&#xA;  active pulling-up action during the upstroke&#xA;  phase on the pedalling technique. Eight elite cyclists&#xA;  (C) and seven non-cyclists (NC) performed&#xA;  three different bouts at 90 rev•min–1 and 60% of&#xA;  their maximal aerobic power. They pedalled with&#xA;  single pedals (PED), with clipless pedals (CLIP)&#xA;  and with a pedal force feedback (CLIPFBACK)&#xA;  where subjects were asked to pull up on the pedal&#xA;  during the upstroke. There was no significant&#xA;  difference for pedalling effectiveness, net mechanical&#xA;  efficiency (NE) and muscular activity&#xA;  between PED and CLIP. When compared to CLIP,&#xA;  CLIPFBACK resulted in a significant increase in&#xA;  pedalling effectiveness during upstroke (86% for&#xA;  C and 57% NC, respectively), as well as higher biceps&#xA;  femoris and tibialis anterior muscle activity&#xA;  (p &amp;lt; 0.001). However, NE was significantly reduced&#xA;  (p &amp;lt; 0.008) with 9% and 3.3% reduction for&#xA;  C and NC, respectively. Consequently, shoe-pedal&#xA;  interface (PED vs. CLIP) did not significantly influence&#xA;  cycling technique during submaximal exercise.&#xA;  However, an active pulling-up action on&#xA;  the pedal during upstroke increased the pedalling&#xA;  effectiveness, while reducing net mechanical&#xA;  efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20079" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-08-28T23:01:14.123" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T23:01:14.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31405" CreationDate="2015-06-21T00:44:03.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @ Nik that it should not be an issue. You can verify  it by shifting the chain to the big ring in the front and the large cog in the rear. With your hands fold the chain over  itself to simulate it being two links shorter. Observe the rear derailleur. You should see two bends in the chains as it passes around the jockey wheels. If the chain passes thru the jockey wheels in a straight line the chain will be too short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T00:44:03.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31405" CreationDate="2015-06-21T02:44:41.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only issue would be if your current chain length assumed you would not use the 27 with the 50, while now you presumably might do so now.  In that case you might be one short.  I would change the cassette, then put the bike on a stand, and try it. I find it hard to avoid occasional cross-chaining, but you may not.  If adding a link solves the problem, that is so easy that you should do it.  It is harder if the derailleur can't handle the range-now you need to buy a longer cage derailleur, which is some money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T02:44:41.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31407" CreationDate="2015-06-21T03:07:12.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess, without seeing a photo (if my explain explanation below doesn't work, perhaps you could post one), that what has happened is that the chain has doubled back on itself. It will look like it is tangled, but in fact it is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me try to explain how to sort it out… &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick a spot on the chain to start, I'd suggest where it comes off of the top of the chainring going back towards the derailer. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Follow the chain back until you come to a &quot;knot.&quot; I suspect what you will see is the chain looping back on itself. If you follow the chain from the loop you will come to another loop – I think it will be going the opposite direction. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work one end of the loop to make it larger, you should start to run into the other loop and if you &quot;work through it&quot; one of the &quot;knots&quot; will come out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are more, repeat the above process. You should end up with a single loop of chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the chain untangled into a single loop remount the rear wheel. The chain should run from the top of the chainring in front over one of the cogs in the rear and hang in an arc as it returns to the chainring in the front. Now you can remount the derailer. The chain will pass over the jockey wheel nearest the rear cogs and then drop down to pass behind (around) the tension wheel before returning to the chainring - I suspect that your friend removed the tension wheel (the lower wheel on the cage) to remove the derailer, it may be still out, but if not remove it so the chain can pass around it. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T21:26:12.947" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T21:26:12.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31407" CreationDate="2015-06-21T03:07:20.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point is to get the chain untangled.  Once you do that, you can remount the derailleur, feed the chain through it and you are home.  Tangles are hard.  Even a photo won't help.  The good news is that there isn't too much to play with, so just playing should get you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T03:07:20.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31403" CreationDate="2015-06-21T03:26:41.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the picture, and what you describe, the tire is wider than the rim. This means that if you like to run the brake shoes close the rim that you'll be unable to remove the tire without having to find some way to &quot;lengthen&quot; the cable. There are three common options that I know of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A release lever on the brakes. It appears that you have one. I think that is what the silver lever on the left side of the photo is (near the brake cable). If you lift up on it, the brakes should relax enabling you to remove the wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some brake levers will have a button to release cable tension. My Tektro levers do, My Shimano levers don't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There may be a barrel adjuster screw on the brakes or levers someplace. The primary purpose of this is to let you tune the length of the cable, but it will also give you a way to release some cable tension (if they are screwed out some). Not ideal, but better than unscrewing the cable clamp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T03:26:41.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30763" CreationDate="2015-06-21T03:45:57.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want stainless spokes and aluminum rims. As suggested in the comments you can check the rims with a magnet – and also by appearance steel rims will probably be shiny. But steel rims are kind of rare, most likely you'll have aluminum on any reasonably priced bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the spokes it may be hard to tell with a magnet. I think the easiest way to tell would be to look closely. Stainless spokes will have no finish and will be &quot;good looking&quot; – no, or minimal rust (sometimes steel from machining will leave some residue that will rust, but it will be superficial, color but no significant oxidation). Steel spokes will have some kind of surface finish to prevent rust. You can probably see the finish and some rust or minor damage to it. Finally look at the heads of the spokes. Name brand spokes like Wheelsmith, DT, or Sapim will be marked. Wheelsmith uses a 'W', I think DT uses 'DT', and I'm not sure about Sapim. If you see one of those marks it is a decent chance that the spokes are stainless – as long as they aren't the dull gray of a galvanized (zinc coated) spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T03:45:57.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T05:18:25.060" Score="3" ViewCount="1322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two threaded holes on the inside of my frame on my 2007 Stumpjumper FSR and I don't know what they are for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9Kb4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me why they're there?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T18:28:28.300" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T18:28:57.540" Title="What are these holes in my frame for?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;specialized-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31415" CreationDate="2015-06-21T05:24:37.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's the mount for the Flow Control valve on the Specialized AFR Shock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shocks with flow valves came stock on the higher end models of the 2007 Stumpjumper FSR like the Expert, Pro and the S-Works Carbon frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bTcyO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastEditorUserId="14392" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T18:28:57.540" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T18:28:57.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T05:33:36.547" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2007 Stumpjumper FSR frame, I bought the Elite model back in 2006, but it still has the same mounts as the Expert and Pro models for a rear shock with a flow control valve. I haven't been on top of the newest tech trends, so I don't know if flow control valves are obsolete already or not. Have they gone the way of the dodo, or are some bike manufacturers still putting them on their bikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rt3DT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T13:15:14.683" Title="Do they still make rear shocks with remote flow control valves?" Tags="&lt;shocks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T06:20:52.240" Score="7" ViewCount="1413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that my knees are coming ahead of the pedals while I am on the aero bars. I am not sure whether this is right or wrong.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the below image, I don't feel pain on my lower back for a long duration but I am seated on the edge of the saddle. This results in a painful pelvic girdle. But I am worried that my knee is too far ahead of the pedal on the horizontal crank arm position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xyr3k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the below image, I am seated on the middle of the saddle which brings my knee a little closer to the pedal. But I experience lower back pain after a very short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IhBuS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am afraid, both the positions are wrong because both the positions bring my knee in front of the pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RmZqZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;spacer ring removed from top and placed below.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is, where should my knee be with respect to the pedal or toes?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also how to correct it (if wrong), should I reduce the stem length or bring my saddle forward? Invite other suggestions as well!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Currently the stem length is 100 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="5567" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T02:22:29.447" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T15:13:59.597" Title="Knee position while on the aero bar" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31424" CreationDate="2015-06-21T06:37:41.073" Score="4" ViewCount="2194" Body="&lt;p&gt;My work place is 16km away from my home and the route I am traveling has traffic round the clock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to get a Kross K- 40 26T Multi Speed Bicycle to travel but I weigh 80kg and I am not fit (have both high and low blood pressure). My friend is scaring me that with this weight and health condition I can't ride 32km per day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20082" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T06:52:55.537" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T19:34:50.307" Title="Is 32km possible to ride with my body condition?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;health&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-06-22T05:35:30.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31405" CreationDate="2015-06-21T06:51:54.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My reasoning is that since I will only ever use the 29 tooth on the cassette with the 34 tooth chainring, that chain length should not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn’t count on that. It just needs one sleepy, careless moment where you shift and shift and shift while being on the big chainring. I’ve tried too-short chains on a bike stand with manual pedaling and I was able to engage the gear but it does get stuck halfway through because the chain is just too short. When you are pedaling with your legs something is bound to break in such a case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I would (and did) still use it as a temporary solution. You just have to be careful on the big chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A minor effect is that a used chain will increase wear of the new cassette. There are people who use multiple chains and swap them every 1000km or so to wear down chains and cassettes evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise: Go ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T06:51:54.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31420" CreationDate="2015-06-21T07:06:17.343" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;32km per day is a lot for some one who is out of shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added the [commuter] tag to your post. If you click on it, you'll see hundreds of posts about commuting. Some are like this one, so your question may get closed if it's a duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you know you have health issues, the conservative advice is to discuss your plan with your doctor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's medically ok to go ahead, then start by riding to work one day, then ride home the next day, twice per week. You will need to store your bike somewhere. Gradually build up, until you can ride both ways every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I agree with your friend, but you can build up to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a similar (but not really duplicate) question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/27134/first-time-commuter-needs-advice/27139&quot;&gt;First time commuter needs advice&lt;/a&gt;. A couple of different answers will be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T08:12:54.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T08:28:24.200" Score="5" ViewCount="19525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an rather old road bike, that I'd like to convert to a comfortable commuting bike. The bike should be used for everyday commuting (&amp;lt; 5km) and occasionally day tours. I'd like to keep the old sporty, clean look of the bike, but add some comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I'm thinking about changing the tires, handlebar and the saddle at first and, if it works out, doing some visual changes later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use the frame of a road bike build a commuting bike? Or is the posture too different to make a rather good commuting bike out of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the old road bike looks:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTRrE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is about the direction I'd like to go:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Du22P.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20083" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T09:43:33.537" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T18:11:32.083" Title="Convert old road bike to comfortable commuter" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31420" CreationDate="2015-06-21T09:17:26.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to the answer by @andy256 (especially the need to  discuss with a doctor)- 32km / day from cold is almost certainly too much, doing it 5 days in row definitely too much, but something that you (baring health problems other than blood pressure) should be able to build up to. You friend is probably right - unless he is saying you will never be able to do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start out with a few trial runs in the weekends - plan a 16k loop rather than out an back so that you can bail out early if needed - remember that once you decide you need to bail, you still need the reserves to get home. What's your 'makeup' - do you have the ability (mental and physical) to &quot;dig deep&quot; and push though barriers? If not, take it very easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16km is a long way for someone completely out of shape, until you have some miles under your belt, make sure you can get home - ride out heading into the wind or up the hill means the home leg is easier if you find you need to turn around early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not start by riding into work till you have a good idea of your comfortable pace over 16km. Last thing you want is to arrive late at work, red faced and exhausted because you had to push it. Budget for flat tires and breakdowns or just 'off' days where you are slower than normal - how flexible is your start time? Give yourself plenty of time once you arrive to be ready to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="634" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T19:34:50.307" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T19:34:50.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31420" CreationDate="2015-06-21T11:30:01.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be capable to do this, but not immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Endurance is an ability which can be trained very well. Except for people with serious health conditions or disabilities, everyone should be able to train themselves to a level where they can ride 2x16km a day comfortably. But wanting too much too early can be counter-productive. I would recommend you to ride shorter distances first until you no longer feel exhausted and then increase the daily distance gradually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go to work using public transportation, you could substitute the first stations of your commute with a bike ride and leave your bike at the station during work (invest in a good lock and get an insurance: public transportation stations are very popular with bike thieves). Gradually skip more and more stations until you can comfortably ride the whole distance by bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go to work by car, you could put the bike into the car, drive half-way to work, park it somewhere, and go the rest of the distance by bike. Use parking spots which are further and further away from work until you feel comfortable leaving your car at home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should still consult with your doctor about how your blood pressure condition might be a problem, but I am quite certain that your doctor will encourage you to do this. Any kind of physical exercise is usually very recommendable to both stabilize blood pressure and reduce weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13120" LastEditorUserId="13120" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T11:48:56.867" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T11:48:56.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31420" CreationDate="2015-06-21T13:54:52.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone is different (apart from physical condition, there's also tolerance of discomfort, strength of will, etc.), so I would suggest to simply borrow a bike from someone and try (carefully) for yourself... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I agree with other answers that if you have no &quot;blocking&quot; medical conditions, you should be able to train yourself for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20087" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T13:54:52.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31420" CreationDate="2015-06-21T15:06:50.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know your body condition: so ... &quot;maybe&quot;? Or, &quot;maybe not now, but maybe soon&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did 36 km per day (18 km each way): my body is male, aged 50+, weight 75 kg, height 182 cm, but with normal BP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first month or two, I didn't do 5 days/week. Some alternatives for you might include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fewer days/week&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only do it one-way somehow (e.g. cycle there, bus back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only do it part-way somehow (e.g. cycle-then-bus there, bus-then-cycle back)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good news is that you can (in theory: your mileage may vary) become fitter: for example if you commute like that for 18 months then you'll have cycled more than 10,000 km and (in my experience, even at my age) your body ought to have adapted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a medical condition though you should probably talk with your doctor. High blood pressure sounds to me like a risk of stroke, low blood pressure like a risk of fainting, neither of which are healthy while you're cycling in traffic. On the other hand, it's possible that cycling is (if it's good for your health) therefore less of a health-risk than not cycling would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't entirely like the look of your bike, I'm sorry to say. When I got a new job 18 km away I thought to myself, &quot;I'm going to need to find myself a new apartment, closer to my new work ... or, find myself a better bike.&quot; Because I already had a bike for like a 6 km commute, but it wasn't a good bike. A better bike goes much faster much more easily. Things I notice and &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; like about your bike include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full suspension, front and back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knobbly (like mountain-bike-style) tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're &quot;planning to get&quot; this bike, that might be not the right plan: depending on the road conditions, and assuming it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a road, a bike &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; suspension and with 'slicker' tires might well be better for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T17:37:12.427" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T17:37:12.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31461" CreationDate="2015-06-21T15:32:17.143" Score="9" ViewCount="8097" Body="&lt;p&gt;How often should one disassemble one's headset and service the bearings, assuming it's a fairly new road bicycle with sealed cartridge bearings and is ridden every day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T19:57:49.150" Title="How often should one service headset bearings?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31428" CreationDate="2015-06-21T16:34:49.927" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably never -- headsets can easily last the life of a bicycle for most people without needing an overhaul. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ride in the wet, it is advisable to have a front fender, though (to reduce the likelihood of needing an overhaul even further). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T16:34:49.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31431" CreationDate="2015-06-21T16:53:28.397" Score="1" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Chorus 9 Speed Ergo-power (~2005) got inaccurate during shifting. The local bike repairman couldn't get the dérailleur to shift properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the chain don't jump down or up after shifting. Some gears are skipped and the pressure points got weak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What parts do I need to replace? Is it maybe a better idea to replace the whole Shifters with a available new 9 Speed Ergopower like the Xenon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastEditorUserId="10748" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T17:20:18.440" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T17:30:27.940" Title="Campagnolo Ergopower Chorus 9 inaccurate shifting" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31430" CreationDate="2015-06-21T17:30:27.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ergopower shifters have a part called G spring that eventually wears out. The symptoms are inaccurate shifting and less sharp clicks, just as you are experiencing. The part is still available, not expensive and relatively easy to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not replace the shifters with Xenon, as it is generally much lower quality and doesn't allow downshifting multiple cogs at a time like other 2000s Ergopowers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T17:30:27.940" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15527" CreationDate="2015-06-21T17:52:00.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just had some success by using an old innertube to get a MUCH better grip on the &quot;knurled ring&quot;-on my bike this ring is not knurled, it just has a bunch of straight edges but nothing really wrenchable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20093" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T17:52:00.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31435" CreationDate="2015-06-21T19:31:25.770" Score="7" ViewCount="1288" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks ago I had my first experience where I really worried for my well-being at the hands of an angry motorist-- so, what can a cyclist do when being threatened and followed by a motorist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was riding on a road with a lot of parked cars as well as driveways, so I was riding somewhat more &quot;center&quot; than what a certain guy was happy with, because he shouted at me to get off the road and onto the bike lane after honking and trying to overtake me. I told him that I don't have to because cyclists have the same legal rights to surface roads that motorists do, and then rode even closer to the center to keep him from dangerously trying to pass me. He then began shouting obscenities at me while driving behind me, so I gave him the one-fingered salute, which he, his wife and son all reciprocated in a perfect Kodak moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I admit that what I did was the antithesis of mitigating road rage, but I also admit that, until now, I (foolishly) never expected to meet someone on the road who might willingly hurt me: At the next traffic light, he told me to pull over so we could discuss this face-to-face, and I said: &quot;No: I don't have to do that either&quot;. What began to scare me is that, after losing him in traffic, he managed to catch up to me and began following me for a very long time and glaring at me. Eventually I pulled quickly off onto the sidewalk and put my keys from my bag into my pocket (it was the sharpest thing I had), but luckily he had to follow the flow of traffic and he didn't meet me again on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Solutions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My safest course of action would have been to avoid provoking the driver in the first place, but I honestly had no expectation that telling a driver about traffic laws could provoke someone into a potentially-murderous rage; Even if I became a mouse on a bike, the possibility of (inadvertently) enraging someone will remain, no matter how small it may be. Therefore, my question is what someone can do in a case where even trying to prevent road rage has failed and they now face the unadulterated wrath of the Gods of the Exploding Dinosaurs-- I really don't think the guy in the story above was intending on &quot;discussing&quot; the matter if he caught me off my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8685" LastEditorUserId="8685" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T22:01:12.447" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T21:57:31.917" Title="How to deal with motorist's road rage (after prevention has failed)" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31434" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T19:32:15.070" Score="2" ViewCount="13758" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son's bike is stuck on 7. When we try to shift down to 1, there are no clicks. It just shoots right back to 7. This is a dial/twist/grip shifter, not a trigger shifter. I do not think it has anything to do with the derailleur, but want to confirm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20097" LastEditorUserId="19862" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T09:02:00.040" LastActivityDate="2021-04-17T17:54:09.857" Title="Twist shifter cannot shift down – what might be the cause?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31433" CreationDate="2015-06-21T20:13:36.903" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pull off the road sooner. Sure, you have a right to be there, but it was quite clear that this creep wasn't prepared to accept that. Your safety is more important than taking the lane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noting his license-plate number and car make/model as he vanishes into the distance isn't a bad idea either, in case you see him again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T20:13:36.903" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T21:48:39.997" Score="1" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to align the front and rear speed shifters ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My chain dropped from the front chain ring, and I put it back on the first gear I found, then the rear one fall off, and I put the chain back on the middle gear of the rear cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, how do I align the chain on the front and back gears in order to put things back in order ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6493" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T08:24:23.680" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T09:59:19.133" Title="Front and Rear speed shifters aligment guide" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31423" CreationDate="2015-06-21T22:44:41.817" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a nice looking bike, it seems like it would be a great start for your project. The big question is whether or not the bike fits you – if it does it will be worth considering what else you could do to make the bike into a dependable commuter / day touring bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by trying to get the saddle and handlebars into a position where you are comfortable on the bike – in general this means getting the seat high enough that you're using your legs efficiently and your bars high enough that you have a comfortable posture and a good distribution of weight between your hands, feet, and crotch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general approach is to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the saddle level and as high as you can and still be able to ride without rocking your hips from side to side. Grant Peterson describes the process in his book &lt;em&gt;Just Ride&lt;/em&gt; starting on page 140 (if you're thinking about starting to commute by bike the book is worth the read, see if your library has a copy). Start a little to high and work your way down, maybe half a centimeter at a time. Looking at the photo you may also want to adjust the saddle back towards the center of the rails.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a comfortable place for your handlebars. Start by putting them at the same height as your seat or even a bit higher. Then as you ride notice where you want your hands to be – notice how you place your hands, test out what it would feel like if the bars were a bit higher or farther back by holding on with the tips of your fingers. As you adjust the bars up be mindful of the location of the &quot;minimum insertion line&quot; on the stem. You may need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/sunlite-stem-raiser-for-traditional-1-inch-22.2mm-quill-stems-1884.htm&quot;&gt;stem extender&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product/nitto-technomic-stem-tall-22.2mm-quill-with-26.0mm-clamp-418.htm&quot;&gt;long stem&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Notice where you want to sit on the saddle. Do you find yourself inching forward on the saddle, or moving towards the back edge? If the movements are small you can accommodate this by sliding the saddle forward or backward on its rails. You don't actually have a lot of latitude here. Your position relative to the pedals is relatively fixed by the ergonomics of pedaling. So if you find that you would really like the saddle closer to the bars, the solution is to move the bars back towards the saddle. This means getting a stem with a shorter reach or possibly a different set of bars. For now you may be able to change your hand position or just notice what you'd like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to do some reading about bike fit. Here are some good resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grant Peterson's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?cat=23&quot;&gt;articles on fit&lt;/a&gt; on the Rivendell Bike Works site.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Peter White, whose site is another great resource for bike commuters – he has lots of great information on lighting, tires, wheel building, and gear for commuter bikes, has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm&quot;&gt;article on fitting bikes&lt;/a&gt; that you may find useful as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/ask-the-engineers/the-four-and-a-half-rules-of-road-saddles-.html&quot;&gt;The Four and a Half Rules of Road Saddles&lt;/a&gt; is an article worth reading if you find that you just can't get comfortable on your saddle – the quick summary is to make sure it is level and wide enough, then consider harder and flatter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far you goal is to figure out if you can make the frame fit you and to spend as little money as you can in the process. &lt;strong&gt;Don't&lt;/strong&gt; go out and buy a &quot;comfy&quot; saddle or a fancy new stem – just use what you've got and figure out if you can make this frame suit you. Check around to see if there is a bike shop that sells recycled parts – if you need to get a different stem, used is the way to go while you're sorting out what size you want. Also some of the better bike shops will guarantee the comfort of the parts they recommend to you. That can be the way to go if you decide you need a new saddle or some other expensive part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're done here you should have a bike that you can comfortably ride for an extended ride (well more than your 5 KM commute) or clear ideas about what parts you need to change to make the bike fit well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that done, here's what I'd look at next:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wider tires: the wider the tire the lower the pressure you can run and the more comfortable and stable the ride. Look at the clearances around your tires – the top of the fork for the front and the front of the chain stays for the rear. You probably want at least 10 mm on the sides and you'll need at least 10 mm between the fork and the chain stay bridge to fit fenders. You may have to change your fenders to use bigger tires. Also, consider &quot;puncture proof&quot; tires like the Schwalbe Marathon Plus.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Effective lights: if you need or want to be able to ride at night you may want to upgrade the lights. Modern LED lights are amazing, they light up the road evenly and make you look like a formidable obstacle to cars. I highly recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/lightingsystems.htm&quot;&gt;Peter White's site&lt;/a&gt; as a source of information about bike lights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebars &amp;amp; brake levers: depending on how and where you ride you may want to consider different bars. There are tons of options, Sheldon Brown has a useful article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/deakins/handlebars.html&quot;&gt;handlebar types&lt;/a&gt; which also goes into the some of the problems you may encounter in the process. But don't change bars until you have the bike fitting well. One of the nice things about dropped (racing) bars is that the lower hand position can help you &quot;get out of the wind&quot; when riding into a headwind, and with the bars up higher the position will not be so awkward. If you find yourself wanting to use the brake lever extensions on the top of your bars, consider switching to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bl9.htm&quot;&gt;cross or interrupter levers&lt;/a&gt; such as the Tektro RL720. They are much more positive than the lever extensions. Also consider getting a set of primary levers with a quick release to make it easy to remove your wheels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need them fender and rack upgrades would be on the list. Looks like you already have a kickstand, so nothing to do there. Get a basic tool kit and a way to carry it and make sure you can lock up your bike. Have fun! Commuting by bike changes your relationship with your community – almost always for the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T22:44:41.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31433" CreationDate="2015-06-22T00:21:15.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Call the police.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get his plate number, his description and report him to the authorities. Idiots like that are too thick to talk to, it takes an officer to get through to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Call the cops while you're riding, tell them you fear for your safety and let them hear the idiot shouting at you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14392" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T00:21:15.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31434" CreationDate="2015-06-22T00:40:59.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without the shifter's resistance, the rear derailleur pulls towards the smallest cog (highest gear). This would also happen, e.g., when the shift cable snaps. (Rarer 'inverse' derailleurs would pull towards the largest cog.) To test the rear derailleur, pull the shift cable with your hand while turning the crank; if the derailleur moves and pushes the chain towards the biggest cog, it means the derailleur is ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the (indexed) shifter doesn't click &lt;em&gt;anymore&lt;/em&gt;, or if the internal catch doesn't seem to withstand the pull of the derailleur, it's most probably time to overhaul or replace the shifter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may simply be that old grease in the shifter has hardened up over time, so that the catch mechanism is stuck. This should be mendable if you open a cap of the shifter casing until a hole is revealed (used for threading in the cable), and spray in a generous amount of a light lubricant that will solve and flush out the sticky grease. WD40 is known to work quickly in such a job, but others also work well and may have better lubricating properties than WD40. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If lubricating doesn't help, it's possible that some internal part is worn out or broken and needs to be replaced. If spare parts are not readily available, it's a case for complete replacement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19862" LastEditorUserId="19862" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T04:28:40.830" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T04:28:40.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31450" CreationDate="2015-06-22T05:20:51.873" Score="4" ViewCount="2895" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I went down from 42cm handlebars to 40cm ones, but I've been getting really tight/sore triceps whilst on the bike. I've read that usually the symptom of running bars that are too narrow is usually that you have breathing difficulties, but that aspect is fine for me. After about 20 minutes or so, my triceps start getting really sore, towards the elbow end of the muscle. Is this a sign that the bars are too narrow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18835" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T08:57:38.610" Title="Symptoms of handlebars that are too narrow? Triceps pain?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-22T11:17:59.543" Score="1" ViewCount="3610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Dahon Speed P8 that I use for touring Japan, which has about 3000km on it. The bicycle has 8 gears on the back, and 1 gear on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I love riding my bike, but honestly (and shamefully) I'm not very proficient at mechanics, so I'm not very knowledgeable either in bicycle part terminology or actual repairing. Please have some patience with me if I don't properly use or understand specialized terminology&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, while riding it, I noticed sometimes, that the gears don't shift as perfectly as they used to, and when shifting to a high gear (7 or 8), sometimes the chain falls off the chainring to the outside of the bicycle, to be caught in between the chainring and the bashgard. There is just enough room for the chain to get stuck in there as I show in this image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q2nkS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that I can temporarily fix this problem by either stopping and manually engaging the chain back, or by shifting to a lower gear and keep on pedaling for a few spins. The chain will then go back into gear, only to fall off again after a few kilometers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the back shifting mechanism is not properly aligned, and may pull the chain way too much to the outside. I think this is a very precise piece of machinery, so I took the bicycle to my local shop where I explained the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They put the bicycle on a stand, and tried shifting, but the gears worked perfectly. I even tried shifting it myself, and it worked perfectly. I took the bicycle back, only for the chain to fall back off on a ride I did last Saturday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what to do. The chain falls off, and I'm worried that this may hurt the chain and the bicycle itself. I want to have my bicycle in perfect condition for a week long ride I have planned in about a month, but I can't get the problem to show up in the shop, so they don't know what to do to solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once changed the chain about 6 months ago, and apart from other minor parts (pedals, standing foot and so on), I have not changed a single other part of the actual mechanisms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the chain falling off harmful to the chain/bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Am I damaging the bicycle by reengaging the chain by switching to a lower gear as I described above?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What could be the cause of a problem like this? Is this something I can easily fix myself?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything I can do to make it more likely for this problem to happen, so I can reproduce the problem in front of my bicycle technician, and for me to know that the problem is actually fixed before leaving the shop?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the bicycle to a different shop, and they told me that both the front crank, and the arm in the rear gear mechanism had developed bends, and that was causing the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I ordered two brand new parts for both the rear shifting mechanism and the front crank. (I was surprised that the front crank was 4 times as expensive as the rear shifting mechanism, even though it has no moving parts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bicycle initially worked perfectly, as if it was brand new. However, a few days later, the same problem started to recur. Shifting is not perfect anymore, and the chain falls to the right just as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today I took it to the same store, and they are now claiming that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This model has an imperfection which makes this problem happen (if so, then why was I able to ride the bike perfectly for three years before this started to happen?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I am somehow shifting it wrong, and causing this problem to happen (once again, why was I able to ride 3000km with no problems, while doing mountain passes, which require much more shifting, yet now I'm having this problem again just by riding 800m from my house to the train station on pavement?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got my bicycle back, with yet another hypothesis of what could be happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technician told me that he contacted Dahon support, and they recommended to flip the front cog. It seems like the cog itself is not symmetrical on the sagittal plane, and is slightly slanted towards the inside of the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flipping the cog turns these slants to the outside, make it considerably more difficult for the chain to fall to the outside, although it makes it easier for the chain to fall to the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the back cogs are mostly biased to the outside, which means that only in the lowest gear setting the chain will be pulled to the inside, making it less likely for the chain to actually fall to the inside. Additionally, there is a built in plastic stopper on the inside (which can be seen in the picture above, like a shark fin), which helps prevent the chain from falling to the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The technician also explained to me that in folding bicycles with small (20 inch) wheels like these, the back cogs have to be at a lower height than the front cogs, and that this makes the chain move more when shifting, so he recommended me to try to pedal a bit slower when shifting, especially into the higher gears, where this is most likely to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make any sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20105" LastEditorUserId="20105" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T03:27:00.940" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T11:00:29.713" Title="Chain falls to the outside of the chainring, but I can't reproduce the problem" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-22T13:05:46.433" Score="3" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kryptonite offer a re-keying service in North America for those who failed to register their keys and have since lost all of them.  I'm in Europe, and such a service is not offered here, I'm wondering if any good locksmith would be able to offer such a service or if Kryptonite use proprietary technology that wouldn't allow for general locksmiths to re-key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lock I have that needs a key for is the Evolution Series 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3227" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T22:19:26.820" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T13:45:02.187" Title="Rekey a Kryptonite lock outside North America" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;&lt;security&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31442" CreationDate="2015-06-22T13:50:37.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your chain or, less likely, your chainring (what you call front cog), could be worn. That would be a little early and could indicate less than optimal maintenance (keeping things clean and lubricated), but wear depends highly on circumstances (rain, mud, velocity). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's simple to measure chain wear: they lengthen in use. Just measure the length of 10 complete links, they are nominally 254mm. A common rule is to replace it once they reach 256 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not so simple to measure chainring or cog wear, but very worn ones resemble shark fins - if yours get in that direction, you want to change them. But you can sure ask your mechanic what s/he thinks specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T13:50:37.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31445" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-22T17:29:13.577" Score="3" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a good bike to use to get around campus and use on the local trail which is about 10 miles paved and unpaved and goes around a lake. Preferably under $300.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20109" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T03:37:07.973" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T16:44:00.533" Title="Bike for college campus" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;26-inch&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-06-24T19:08:53.007" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31445" CreationDate="2015-06-22T18:05:00.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your campus is like most I have ever heard about, you want the cheapest bike that will do the job.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bike theft is a common thing everywhere but campuses where a lot of young people are in need of bikes are certainly not less risky than average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most students I know look for second hand bikes, either at the university, online or where they grew up/have their relatives and friends network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brand of bike is less important, I guess you know better than I do what kind of bike you like for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T18:05:00.903" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31193" CreationDate="2015-06-22T18:08:51.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Decided to answer my own question (with the update), since none of the previous answers specifically addressed the solution (through no fault of their own).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following a group ride last week, we looked over the bike in a last ditch effort to solve the creaking. Things seemed in order, but the mechanic greased the seatpost clamp and the bolt attaching the front brake to the frame. He also noticed that the stem bolts (where it attaches to the fork) were stripped. Following the greasing, I briefly rode the bike, with no change in creaking. The next day I replaced the stem with a newer one and went for a ride. The creaking persisted at the beginning of the ride, but disappeared partway through the ride after an extended climb out of the saddle. &gt;170 miles later and the creaking hasn't returned. I'm not sure which of the last three solutions finally did it (greasing the seatpost clamp, the front brake bolt or the stem) or whether the grease just needed more time to filter in, but I'll take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully no one runs into this issue in the future, but if they do, I hope this answer saves them the trip down the rabbit hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11045" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T18:08:51.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-22T20:31:38.910" Score="1" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a noob, based in Hyderabad and planning to cycle to work - atleast 2-3 times in a week (36 kms from house to work - can't do it right-away - but plan to definitely do it later, when I build up the stamina). My problem is, in Hyderabad with the Metro work going on - the roads are a disaster, my bike, which is a Schwinn Racer (Single-Speed Coaster breaks) is a great road bike, but I'm got fed-up of the frequent punctures, sometimes (5-6 in a month), I changed the tubes 2-3 times, checked tyre pressure, etc., but still the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of putting in the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires - both front and back, do you guys think that it will be enough? Or its something to do with my bike itself? Any and all suggestions are welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20111" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T20:31:38.910" Title="Schwinn Racer - Frequent Punctures - Schwalbe Marathon Plus" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-06-22T21:29:58.800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31441" CreationDate="2015-06-22T23:40:11.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went from 42cm to 40cm bars on a road bike and experienced the same symptoms.  The switch to narrower bars can definitely cause tricep pain at the elbow.  So, yes, tricep pain can be a symptom of narrow bars (it could be from other things too).  Whether it is a temporary or a permanent symptom can be gleaned by how you feel after you've had some time to adjust to your new setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds trivial, but make sure when you are riding in this new cockpit, that you keep your elbows bent and use your arms as suspension/dampening/etc.  If you aren't able to ride comfortably with your elbows not locked out, this is a problem.  If this is the case, I'd first add some rise to the stem to bring the bars up a bit.  If you still can't get a comfortable position, then I'd recommend getting another set of 42's and riding what you know is comfortable and works for you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T23:40:11.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-23T00:10:45.027" Score="1" ViewCount="1584" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant#Graphite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; doesn't explicitly list the applications of graphite grease. &lt;em&gt;Would it be suitable for bicycle bearings and threads?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, I went ahead and purchased a single package (the same price as the lithium grease). It says (translated):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Water-resistant calcium anti-frictional grease. Contains 10% powdered graphite. Intended for lubricating sliding parts (like springs, chains, ropes), which are susceptible to quick wear, contamination etc. at temperatures from -20C to 65C.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T00:19:56.770" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T10:59:17.010" Title="Is graphite grease suitable for bicycle bearings?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;grease&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31160" CreationDate="2015-06-23T01:49:29.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect strongly that the valve is gummed up with sealant.  From the photo it looks like you may be able to remove the &quot;core&quot; of the valve.  That would allow you to either clean it, or replace it.   The core is the silver part that is screwed into the brassy looking part.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you can't blow the blockage into the tube with a pump, and the tube wont deflate through the valve if you hold it open, then it's time for a new tube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, tubeless tires with sealant work much better than tubes with sealant.  They do sometimes suffer this problem too, but in that case you can remove the valve completely and clear it by poking a spoke, nail, or stick through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T01:49:29.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28755" CreationDate="2015-06-23T02:49:00.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't like the price tag on this solution, but to get my single speed bike with a perfect chainline, I used the Surly Single-Speed Kit which has 6 spacers of different widths that let you get things exactly right.  The kits run about $40, but you also need a rear hub with the Shimano style cassette mount, such as for a 5-cog cassette on a 10-speed bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20115" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T02:49:00.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31423" CreationDate="2015-06-23T03:02:04.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a similar conversion of a woman's road bike (1975 Peugeot UE18) to a commuter. The main changes were switching out the handlebars from drop bars to porteur style bars, 700c wheels and contemporary hubs, the inclusion of a dynohub, upgrading the rear derailleur, and the addition of a two-legged kickstand for stability. My Peugeot already had a nice saddle but in your case I'd add a good Brook's saddle since your current saddle looks uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info is in my answer here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30656/how-can-i-learn-to-take-care-of-an-old-70s-era-road-bike-get-it-back-to-workin/30659#30659&quot;&gt;How can I learn to take care of an old (70s era) road bike/get it back to working condition?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But from that answer,  here is the bill of materials / notes from my repair notebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Front wheel&#xA;700c  vuelta rim  622x18&#xA;Stainless steel spokes 36h&#xA;Sanyo 6vac hub dynamo NH27&#xA;&#xA;Rear wheel&#xA;SRAM PG950 9-speed Cassette  SR-PG950-34      11X34 $18.39&#xA;2012.11.21  Dimension Road Rear Wheel 700c 36h Shimano 2200 Silver / Freedom Ryder 23 (622-17)Black &#xA;&#xA;Front sprocket (original), crankset original, pedals original&#xA;52-38&#xA;&#xA;Rear Sprocket &#xA;SRAM PG950 9-speed Cassette  SR-PG950-34 (was 14-26) 382g&#xA;11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30-34&#xA;&#xA;Derailleur&#xA;Campagnolo Mirage (used/vintage)&#xA;Chain wrap  = (52-38) + (34-11) = 14 + 23 = 37&#xA;&#xA;Stem and bars&#xA;Velo Orange Threadless Stem Adapter ST-0001 $16&#xA;VO Porteur Handlebar $32&#xA;&#xA;Upgrade Schedule&#xA;2012.09.26: Front Suntour derailler. Put new chain on (7.96mm outside width)&#xA;2012.10.09: Replaced front wheel with Dynohub + 700c 622x18 (36h) $85&#xA;2012.10.09:  Continental Gator Hardshell Urban Bicycle Tire with Duraskin (700x28, Wire Beaded) $48.79                  &#xA;2012.10.18: Rear Campagnolo (8-9) derailler  &#xA;2012.10.24: All new brake lines and derailleur lines (Jagwire L3)&#xA;2012.10.24: 15.6kg w rack and dynohub and lights, front sun tour derailleur, rear campy derailleur.&#xA;2012.11.28 sks mud guards     &#xA;2012.11.21  SRAM PG950 9-speed Cassette  SR-PG950-34      11X34 $18.39&#xA;2012.11.21  Dimension Road Rear Wheel 700c 36h Shimano 2200 Silver / Freedom Ryder 23 (622-17)Black&#xA;2012.12.01  Rear wheel =&amp;gt; Continental Gatorskin ($49.99) &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-06-12T18:11:32.083" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T18:11:32.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28755" CreationDate="2015-06-23T12:21:57.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience, determining the chainline based on specifications of the components (BB and Crankset) and a simple math calculation is the best approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was having a hard time ballparking the chainline; I then found out that the manufacturer of the crankset I use provides a specification document that describes the recommended spindle length of the BB and the chain line measurement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the spacer adjustment correct, I &lt;a href=&quot;https://surlybikes.com/uploads/downloads/SS_Spacer_Kit.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;use a table provided by Surly&lt;/a&gt;, The table isn't really specific for Surly spacers but it only works with Shimano hubs. Surly SS kits are expensive, so I recommend purchasing ones from a Taiwanese company that can be found on eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2021-03-14T15:55:23.347" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T15:55:23.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24468" CreationDate="2015-06-23T14:19:12.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, check your local laws. As others have mentionend, in some countries (EU), maximum power for an electric bike is 250W. Go beyond that and the vehicle will be considered a moped and will need license, insurance and and license plates. Your local laws might also require an assist-only option for your bike to be considered an e-bike. That means usually a pedal sensor, and those can be difficult to install especially with exotic or outdated bottom brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Selecting a kit is not necessarily easy. If you're going to front mounted motor, check that brake type is compatible (disc or v-brake) with the kit and that fork spacing is suitable. E-bike kit should come with brake levers with a cut-off switch so the motor stops pushing immediately when braking (problem with some e-bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kits can be had cheap, but installing them takes time, effort and experience with bike mechanics. If you got all three, go for it. If you need to get up and running quickly, an entry-level e-bike is probably better option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19611" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T14:19:12.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-23T15:13:22.297" Score="8" ViewCount="19653" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarification:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not asking for a solution to punctures, or about the nuances of ride quality with the various solutions. I am asking whether one method of reducing punctures has been proven better than others through scientific testing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preface:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often see people online using tubes with sealant rather than tire liners or puncture resistant tires, and wonder &quot;why?&quot; The slime is messy, can clog the valve, weighs more than liners, and does nothing to actually prevent a puncture, but rather waits until the puncture occurs to go into action filling it and (hopefully) coagulating in the hole. I've read that this really only works on small holes, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Purely anecdotal evidence:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've ridden for the last eight years on the same route during my commute. I started with tire liners on regular tires, then went with Continental Gatorskins (Kevlar belted), and am now on my second set of Vittoria Randonneurs (double-shielded), and of the three setups, only ever had punctures on the Conti's -- at least two flats per year (grrr!). Zero flats on the Randos in nearly four years while laughing my way through the fields of glass.  I see Schwalbe Marathons recommended more than any other brand, and while many say they've never had a flat with them, I also see some cyclists posting that they've had flats with those, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just seems to me that there's no competition: double-shielding wins, IMO.  It's less hassle that liners or sealant, and just as protective as liners/more protective than sealant, and generally weigh the same or less than sealant-filled tubes or tire-liners.  Not to mention the cost factor over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain the advantages of using liners or sealant over puncture-resistant tires, &lt;em&gt;specifically relating to resisting punctures?&lt;/em&gt;  Have any scientific studies been done to compare the three methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6796" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:33:48.800" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T18:33:59.653" Title="Tube sealant vs. tire liners vs. puncture-resistant tires -- which best prevents flats?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31419" CreationDate="2015-06-23T15:13:59.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proper fit in an aerobar posture is designed to allow you to race well. In order to race well you will need to be comfortable enough to produce power, to reduce aerodynamic drag, and to handle the bike well and safely for the duration of your race. &lt;strong&gt;If your fit otherwise meets all your needs&lt;/strong&gt;, you shouldn't be concerned about where your knee is positioned relative to the pedal. Under UCI regulations (see section 2 of chapter 3 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/80/73/1-GEN-20150313-E_English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), the nose of the saddle should be a minimum of 5 cm behind a vertical line through the bottom bracket; morphological exemptions can be made to bring the nose of the saddle up to the bottom bracket. Some riders do not compete under UCI rules and the saddle can be forward of that; and many time triallists will sit only on the front half of their saddles, effectively bringing them even farther forward. The forwardmost position of the pedal will be determined by the bottom bracket and the crank length. Some riders use &quot;short&quot; cranks to improve their aerodynamic position, and that will also change the position of the knee relative to the pedal. The location of the cleat and the length of your foot will also determine where your knee is positioned relative to your toes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optimize your fit to achieve your other goals. Don't focus solely on where your knee is positioned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T15:13:59.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31458" CreationDate="2015-06-23T15:56:02.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is more to tire set-up than just puncture proof.  Many are also interested in tire suppleness, traction and rolling resistance. Tubeless tires are the in thing at the moment because tubeless construction take material away (aka the the tube) and allows lower pressures, which results in a more supple tire, that has more traction and often less rolling resistance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/06/13/how-much-faster-are-supple-tires/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Supple tires can often roll faster&lt;/a&gt; and with less effort as they deform more easily to surface imperfections. This translates into a smoother ride and less pedaling effort and more traction. Many of the puncture proof setups add material to the tire making the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tire carcass&lt;/a&gt; stiffer, this in turns means it takes more energy to deform the tire when rolling (or encountering a bump), which in turns results in a harsher ride and a higher rolling resistance (the energy to deform the tire has to come from somewhere; i.e., forward momentum).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Summarizing:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tire Liner&lt;/strong&gt; - Cheap and reusable as it can be applied to current tires, but has a fiddly set up (e.g., getting the liner to stay in place), will reduce suppleness of the tire and does not provide puncture protection on the side wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Puncture resistant tires&lt;/strong&gt; - These have what is in essence a liner built into the tire carcass. Because of the unified construction should be more supple build than a tire liner and vary the degree of coverage. Different manufacturers and models will have different trade-off between suppleness and puncture resistance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tubeless&lt;/strong&gt; - Primary goal is really to create a lighter, more supple tire, that can be run at lower pressures, the setup also happens to have good puncture resistance properties if sealant levels are maintained. Mounting a tubeless setup can be a hassle (i.e., you need high pressure to seat the tire), sealant is required and handles sealing the system including handling punctures. Sealant also needs to be topped up every few months as it dries out, and without sealant you lose puncture protection. The setup also requires wheels with tubeless compatible or tubeless ready rims, tubeless tape, and tubeless valves are also required. The design goal was less to be &quot;better&quot; than (1) or (2) in terms of puncture protection, but optimizing the tire for a different set of criteria (i.e., weight, suppleness, traction, rolling resistance and puncture protection).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If puncture resistance is your &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; concern then your &quot;double-shield&quot; setup looks like a good solution and will be easier than tubeless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T18:33:59.653" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T18:33:59.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31428" CreationDate="2015-06-23T19:49:00.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an almost daily all-season rider for a dozen years. Press fit headset bearings are subject to wear and corrosion. If you ride and/or wash your bike regularly you will feel a slight stiffening over time (handlebars don't move as readily when walking the bike with hand on the seat). This steering symptom gradually increases to feel like you would expect from compromised bearings. Like most things that are press fit, screwed or slipped into a bike frame if they don't get busted loose every few years they will become corroded in place resulting in fits at the bike shop. And while you're at it you may as well replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20120" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T19:49:00.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31366" CreationDate="2015-06-23T20:40:14.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the tyre has rubbed due to the wheel being pulled over,this is caused if the skewers were not tight enough.recentre the wheel and re tighten the quick release skewers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20121" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T20:40:14.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28755" CreationDate="2015-06-23T20:48:22.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than eyeballing, ballparking, or relying on tables, I have found that a ruler is the simplest and most accurate tool for this job.  Put the ruler with the zero mark in the middle of the seat tube, and measure the distance to the teeth on the chainring.  Then measure the inside diameter of the frame at the rear dropouts where the rear axle goes.  Divide that by two, and put a piece of tape on the rear hub right at that distance from the inside of the rear drop out.  That's the midline.  Now measure from that line to the chain on the rear cog.  That's how I used the Single Speed Kit to get the rear cog right on the chain line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20122" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T20:48:22.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31445" CreationDate="2015-06-23T20:49:35.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a BMX bike for two years in college and no one wanted to steal it. To most common thieves it does not have a high value since it looks like a kids bike. They are fun to ride, can get you across campus through any terrain, and are small enough to fit inside closets and crevasess if you forgot your lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not your thing. Try an older road bike off of craigslist. Something that you can maintain yourself, but not too shiny to get noticed. You want something light and with less moving parts so that way there is less to go wrong. Make sure you replace all the quick release parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a 20 year old Specialized road bike before going to the BMX. Before that, I had a 2 year old Mongoose that got stolen piece by piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14679" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T20:49:35.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31466" CreationDate="2015-06-23T20:49:38.457" Score="3" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to troubleshoot poor shifting issues on a mountain bike that appears to have been built out of the spare parts box…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current problem is &quot;instability&quot; on the rear derailer – the chain bounces around and is very hard to get to settle into gear. The original setup was a SunRace M40 derailer paired with SunRace twist grip shifters and a Shimano 8-speed cassette. The chain measures closer to 7-speed than 8-speed (0.285&quot; a bit over 7.2 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sunrace.com/en/products/family/m40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SunRace website&lt;/a&gt; the M40 derailer is described as being 7-speed. So I figured that I might have found the problem (7-speed indexing steps paired with an 8-speed cassette), so I tried fitting an NOS SRAM 5.0 8-speed twist grip shifter (which, according to the instructions that came with them, are Shimano compatible). &lt;strong&gt;However,&lt;/strong&gt; after reading @Chris in AK's comments below, and failing to find any definitive marks on the shifter, I actually measured the cable travel using the information I found in &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article on drive train compatibility&lt;/a&gt; and it looks like the SRAM grip shifters are ESP (1:1) as the cable movement is slightly more than 4 mm / click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that the shifting seems to be more stable, the bad news is that it reliably shifts two cogs for each clink (e.g., I move the shifter from the 8 position to the 7 position and the chain moves to the #6 cog).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas about what could be going on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T18:07:54.393" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T18:07:54.393" Title="Indexed rear derailer shifts two cogs for each step" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31465" CreationDate="2015-06-23T21:08:21.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check the SRAM grip shift that you purchased.  SRAM makes grift shifters for both their own derailleurs and Shimano's.  The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Gear-changing_Dimensions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;actuation ratio&lt;/a&gt; on those shifters is different.  SRAM uses a 1:1 ratio for their high end stuff.  Most of Shimano's is closer to 2:1.  The SunRace website you linked to lists the M40 as 2:1, meaning you'll need a SRAM grip shifter with 2:1 actuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T21:08:21.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-23T22:13:18.823" Score="12" ViewCount="1471" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of effort and resources go into making cycling shoes stiff, presumably to keep the foot in a suitable shape and spread the force across the sole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like it would be possible to achieve a similar effect by making pedals long enough to support the entire foot, with or without a retention system. However I'm not aware of the existence of any pedals like that, so I suppose there must be strong disadvantages to them that I haven't thought about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12583" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T18:54:31.507" Title="Why are foot-long pedals not widely used?" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13813" CreationDate="2015-06-23T23:03:06.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will give you this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check all big bike brands. All the MTB medium-to-top-end models run hydraulic disc brakes, you will not see one cable-actuated. Even low end bikes are hard to find with cable discs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check all the bike competitions MTB related - from downhill to enduro to XC. Everybody with no exception runs hydraulic brakes - you will not see a cable actuated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check all big brands that produce road bikes with discs, and check their medium-to-top-end models. All the bikes have hydraulic disc brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give me an example of a car or a motorcycle with cable-actuated discs. The exact same principle applies here: the relation force-in-the-lever to braking-power is unmatched on a hydraulic system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As is true with everything, there might one or two exceptions on top-end models (usually fashion top-end, not performance top-end, i.e., the bike brands that you see on podiums ALL run hydraulic disc brakes) where there will be cable-actuated disc brakes, but what more convincing can I do when I tell you that everybody concerned with performance runs hydraulics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Road-racing is an exception, but is mostly political-derived. In 1 or 2 years you will see professionals on the Tour with hydraulics, and most big brands already have them for sale. Maybe sooner &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/news/article/uci-finally-embraces-road-disc-brakes-44080/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2015/04/bikes-and-tech/uci-to-lift-ban-on-disc-brakes-in-august_366590&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also true hydraulic disc brakes have their specific problems - such as the fluid boiling, but these are solved in most modern iterations of hydraulics, road or mountain.  Modern hydraulic disc brakes are reliable, easy to modulate and extremely powerful. Even the cheapest models, for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gear/category/components/disc-brake-systems/product/review-shimano-deore-m615-14-48047/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you will hear all sorts of people saying how their disc brakes gave them problems, but this is true for everything. Suspensions, wheels, frames (cars, the  latest Ferrari 458 and Porsche GT3 both had a problem where they catch fire, and they are extremely high-end products. Sometimes these things just happen and a bad series leaves the fabric). Cannodale, a really good brand, has a recall because a fork could potentially break, which is extremely dangerous. Is cannondale a bad brand? No, this just happens sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are disadvantages of course, mainly that maintenance is potentially more costly as you will need to bleed them every once (a year? I do it every two, never had problems) in a while (my shop charges $60), but hydraulics are totally worth it: they are more powerful and easier to modulate. For example, you can brake with one finger - they are that easy to modulate and that powerful, while you keep most of your hand holding the handlebar, having a better overall control. Do this with mechanics..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They require less continuous maintenance then cables and nowadays you can buy a nice brake for ~$70 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00ISC8JL4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), or a decent set for $100 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://shimano%20Deore%20brake%20set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But despite this big discussion, the best think you can do is go to a shop and try both: I am sure you will be convinced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastEditorUserId="19084" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T22:24:20.593" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T22:24:20.593" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31467" CreationDate="2015-06-24T00:53:37.367" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd wager the two biggest reasons you don't see foot-sized pedals are the increased rotational weight, and the difficulty you would have catching the pedal with your foot before it struck the ground or the front tire. I'm sure someone tried this once and promptly scrapped the idea after the foot-sized pedal struck something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedals need to be stiff and durable, which is fine. But if pedals had to be stiff and durable and large, they would probably end up being heavy, so it makes sense that most pedals you see are small and compact. Shoes already do a great job of interfacing with and conforming to your feet, and it's easy enough to make the sole stiff with plastic, fiberglass, and carbon fiber. All of these factors combined explain why we have small pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T00:53:37.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13903" CreationDate="2015-06-24T08:25:05.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may have a few troubles with the curved stoker seat tube, front derailleurs can be remarkably tricky to set up correctly. You can find some more useful experiences &lt;a href=&quot;https://tandem-club.org.uk/files/public_html/cgi-bin/db_config.pl?noframes;read=7175&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. In particular, you may have to experiment with some low cost parts before committing to something pricier as your choice of chainring sizes will determine where along the curve the derailleur must sit and so what effective angle it will be mounted at.&#xA;The maximum allowable chainring size will be determined by the length of your bottom bracket spindle and the clearance of the chainstays. Either crack out some geometry or try it out. It's always tricky to work out chainlines on older parts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In answer to your second question, your best bet is to have a look &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/eccentric-shells-and-spares-dept773_pg1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and compare the measurements they have to your frame with a pair of callipers. SJS sell the Thorn tandems so always have a good range, you may have some luck with Tandems East if SJS can't help. Although they don't list the sizes they do offer custom EBB inserts (from the US, at a high cost I expect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12897" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T08:25:05.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31472" CreationDate="2015-06-24T11:28:37.023" Score="13" ViewCount="10180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been cycling for about 1.5 yrs now doing about 1.5 hrs on a daily basis. I've been able to tone my muscles but I cannot lose my belly fat. Does anybody have any idea to decrease belly fat while cycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20127" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T12:54:10.553" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T22:38:05.367" Title="How to decrease belly fat while cycling?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31471" CreationDate="2015-06-24T13:30:00.887" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot outride (or outrun or out-any-other-exercise) a bad diet. On top of that, decades of research shows it's impossible to &quot;spot-reduce&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eat some combination of food that results in fewer calories in. Shoot for somewhere between 200-500 fewer calories for moderate weight loss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ride some combination of harder and longer while maintaining your current intake. Harder could be adding hill climbs and sprint intervals. Longer would be adding a 3-4 hour ride on the weekend or something. This is hard to because as soon as you start riding harder you will want to eat more. It takes strong self discipline. It also assumes your diet isn't horrible to begin with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a combination of the first two.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forget everything above and start saving for liposuction or any of the other modern body sculpting surgeries. Personally I'd rather spend that money on a nicer bike and continue to try to ride the belly off, but to each their own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside general weight/fat loss, strength and endurance exercises targeting the area will tone the underlying muscles, but will have little to no effect on your spare tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T13:30:00.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-24T13:34:32.510" Score="3" ViewCount="81722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I unconsciously bought a bike which's frame size is larger than recommended. (My height is 163cm bikes frame size is for people 174-190cm) (I dont have any problems with reaching ground with my feet when I stop)&#xA;Bike is BMW M Cruise bike's large frame &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is will this bigger bike cause orthopaedic problems and will it really differ my handling if I go for a proper sized bike? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks beforehand &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20129" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T19:30:25.207" Title="Disadvantages of Riding Larger Frame Sized Bike than Reccomended Frame Sized Bike" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31473" CreationDate="2015-06-24T14:58:19.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That frame really is considerably too large.  If at all possible the best bet would be to ask to exchange for a smaller size.  Many companies now offer 30 day return policies for bikes that have not been used beyond a short test ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of fitting problems, the most likely areas to be effected will be the lower back, shoulders, neck, triceps and wrists as you will be in an excessively stretched out position causing additional weight to be taken on your upper body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If returning the bike is not an option, you can mitigate the problem slightly by fitting a shorter stem.  Whilst making the bike a better fit, this will also cause its handling characteristics to become more 'twitchy' (smaller movement to create same response from the bike). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14027" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T14:58:19.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31471" CreationDate="2015-06-24T15:32:57.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;what worked for me was serious, hard, (90 to 100% ) maximum heart rate interval rides. any good cycling training book can give you more specifics. they only need to be done 2/3 days a week. the other days you can ride in a more relaxed/recovery ride type of way. a lot will depend on how hard you are riding presently, if your heart rate isn't high enough, you wont see the results you are looking for. a good training book and a heart rate monitor could make the difference. Weight training for the large muscle groups, (butt &amp;amp; legs) would make difference as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20131" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T15:32:57.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31445" CreationDate="2015-06-24T16:18:00.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Especially considering the theft issue raised by Willeke, I'd say hands down the bike for you is a rigid mtb. That's what I ride. I live in a high-crime city, and ride it on fairly technical trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would buy used. You could probably get a decent used one for less than a hundred bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would probably put some skinnier 26x1.5 tires on it, depending on how rough the unpaved stuff is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T16:44:00.533" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T16:44:00.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31478" CreationDate="2015-06-24T17:04:03.593" Score="8" ViewCount="2150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an RA for a dorm that is considering buying a number of bikes that would be owned by the dorm and lent out to students. I will be at least in part responsible for maintaining the fleet (about 10 bikes) so I was thinking it should have fewer things to break. I considered getting single speeds but I think students might want to be able to change gears from time to time (though there aren't many hills here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking maybe a triple crank and single speed in the back might be an option. This would mean only a front derailleur so fewer parts to fix. Has anyone tried this? I couldn't find anyone online mentioning it. I think a 1x9 with a 34T chainring is the other option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20132" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T17:29:29.127" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T18:17:35.867" Title="Group of Bikes: Is 3x1 an option?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31477" CreationDate="2015-06-24T17:27:22.367" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can make a 3x1 setup work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to have the chain change gears, there needs to be a mechanism to take up the slack in the chain. In a normal dual-derailer setup, the rear derailer does that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to make it work with a chain tensioner, but I'm not sure if you can find one with enough range to do the job as well as a rear derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you could do it with a rear derailer locked to the one gear, but that defeats the entire point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 1x8 or 1x9 would work fine, of course, since the only derailer is a rear derailer and it would handle the tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to go with an internally geared hub (IGH). It's fairly common for &quot;cruiser&quot; and &quot;town&quot; bikes to have a 3-speed internally geared hub. That would give you most of the extra durability of a singlespeed drivetrain and allow for a very thorough chain guard (no pant rolling needed). Internally geared hubs often have a built in coaster brake, which would mean you'd only need a front brake. Even better would be a belt-driven internally-geared-hub bike (no chain lube!), but that requires a frame (at least dropout) built for it and would definitely be more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T17:27:22.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31477" CreationDate="2015-06-24T17:36:52.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've known something like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycleexif.com/surly-dual-speed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cycleexif.com/surly-dual-speed&lt;/a&gt; but I don't know this will work for casual bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also agree with @reiheit, internal geared hub is much more nicer idea. An example of this is bike rental system in Taipei (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/taiwan/archives/2012/12/10/2003549807&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/taiwan/archives/2012/12/10/2003549807&lt;/a&gt;). I've been in Taipei for a while, and these bikes were awesome. They had 5 speeds (If my memory is correct.). Moreover, Internally geared hub is less prone to failures, and I think the bikes require less maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T19:42:28.373" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T19:42:28.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31471" CreationDate="2015-06-24T18:06:14.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the exact same issue.  I was on a swim team and biking to work every day, but staying the same weight.  It changed when I started replacing carbs and sugars in my diet with fiber, protein and fat.  This meant eggs instead of cereal or toast at breakfast, a big salad instead of a sandwich at lunch, and avoiding pasta, pizza and tortillas at dinner.  It also meant wine instead of beer and 75% dark chocolate instead of ice cream.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the Glycemic Index (measure of how much sugar pours into your bloodstream after eating) of the food in question to know if you should eat it.  A bagel might seem healthy, but it has a higher glycemic index than Coke.  Avoid oatmeal.  Eat eggs and sausage instead.  It seems counter-intuitive, I know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the rise and fall of blood sugar making me hungry, my appetite got under control and I felt less sleepy.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I dropped weight so fast, I started feeling too cold in winter and couldn't make automatic doors work any more (OK, just kidding in that last one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that like most diets, it is tough to stay on this one and when you do slip, it kicks off that blood sugar roller coaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1116" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T18:06:14.140" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31467" CreationDate="2015-06-24T19:44:28.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One big difference is where the force is applied. In a conventional pedal, you press down using the ball of you foot. In a foot-long pedal you would have to center the axle so the pedal stays level, but that would mean that the force would be applied by the middle of your foot. You would be losing the power and flexibility that your ankle can bring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being clipped in the pedal also has many power and security advantages. Does your footlong pedal in your scenario has a way of being clipped ? In that case you still need strong shoes with a sole, so why have that big of a pedal when you can have a single smaller point of contact ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T19:44:28.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31477" CreationDate="2015-06-24T19:57:14.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would personally go for the 1x8 over the IGH for a couple reasons. The first is initial cost. 3 speed hub is going to cost more than a single 8 speed hub.  Also, it makes changing tires a lot easier.  Changing the tire on an internal hub can be quite daunting for somebody who's never done it before.  Internal hubs are more durable, but there are precautions you can take with deraileurs such as getting a guard shown below to ensure that they are protected if the person leans the bike down on it's side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGHLy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Derailleur Guard&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T19:57:14.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-24T19:57:25.630" Score="3" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nowadays there are many cycling apps like Strava, etc. One useful feature of them is giving the shortest or lowest altitude change route between point A and B. Although they have that lowest altitude change, some of these routes are definitely not easy to climb up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, from my house to shopping mall, there are 2 routes, one is suggested by Strava and the other one is mine as well as any citizen of my town would suggest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Route 1. Climb %8 hill until reach the shopping mall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Route 2. Climb %15 very short hill, then ride downhill a parallel way to Route 1, then climb very short %15 hill and you reach your destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely it is easier to ride Route 2 and also it does not need so much physical condition since it does not always climbs. My main point in here is that it seems easier to climb a high slope for a short period of time and drive downwards to recover. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question&lt;/strong&gt; : is there any apps that can create routes like Route 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20138" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T16:12:17.587" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T12:49:22.857" Title="Finding better routes than bicycle apps suggest" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31443" CreationDate="2015-06-24T20:02:19.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can use a shipping service from the US to re-ship the new keys to you, but I'm assuming that you have to send the lock in, and have them ship it back ? If that's the case, a new lock would probably be cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T20:02:19.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31477" CreationDate="2015-06-24T20:09:28.343" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;inner hub gears are near zero maintenance, and as you don't need a thin chain, the external parts (chain, &quot;cassette&quot;, etc) can be made fairly sturdy. They also have a nice feature for town use: you can change gear while stopped at the lights. No more anticipation or setting off in the wrong gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sturmey Archer 3 speeds are probably the most affordable to build a bike from; the ratio normally gives a good spread. If you are hoping to fit this on drop bars, then you should be able to hook up a 3-speed front-shifter/brake unit to the SA hub. I have an 1999 Sachs hub set up exactly like this; Shimano RSX road lever controlling shifting -it just goes in the opposite direction from a front ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 1x8 or 1x9 at the back, that's a pretty wide spread these days; you can go better than 1:1 at the bottom, at the expense of the upper gears: you'll need to get that front ring something everyone can agree on. 8 speed is probably the best choice as it is easier to set up than 9 speed; the chains are wider and a bit stronger. Even 9sp is easier than 10-11 for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going for a 1x8 would probably be a lower cost option as you can get rear freehub wheels for not much expense...though once you add in the cost of wheel+cassette+derailleur there's less in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;em&gt;Update Aug 2018&lt;/em&gt;] When those Sachs hubs start playing up you will discover that it's nearly impossible to get spare parts...the only reason my bike is working again is the local bike shop found a replacement activation chain in one of their boxes of &quot;old bike bits&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20137" LastEditorUserId="20137" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T21:04:45.013" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T21:04:45.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31433" CreationDate="2015-06-24T20:14:01.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thankfully never was in that situation, but if the driver doesn't let you go or is getting out of the car, use the bike's advantages over the car :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go in the wrong direction in a one-way (using the sidewalk if need be)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go off the road using pedestrian's facilities (sidewalk, park)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change direction quickly or go back the other way on the same road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these are hard for a car to keep up, sure you might annoy some pedestrians and might be illegal in some places, but it's still better than having the crap beat out of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T20:14:01.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31483" CreationDate="2015-06-24T20:21:36.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strava has the option of using &quot;Popularity&quot; to create a route. This means that if more people use Route 2, it should make you go that way. The problem if that if a lot of people are training using Route 1 it might skew the resulting route the other way. Usually I start by checking where other people are going by when I plan my trips, then I can do adjustments based on riding it or by talking to the locals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the option of manually creating the route using Strava or RideWithGPS or other mapping sites, but that would mean that you have previously know which one is the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T20:21:36.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31043" CreationDate="2015-06-24T20:39:12.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presuming a replacement is necessary, and not a new build, can you remove the cranks and measure the the spindle length?  You can do it with the BB still installed if the caliper arms are 'deep' enough.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you are in there with calipers, its probably worth getting the BB Shell diameter and width too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another variation is the thread's hand orientation (left/ right).  I forget now side is the variable one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19194" LastEditorUserId="19194" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T20:49:20.307" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T20:49:20.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31477" CreationDate="2015-06-24T21:33:35.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there are no hills, do not bother with gears.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Students who can use a free bike will be happy enough with a bike that actually works and does not break down just when they need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the most popular rental bikes in the Netherlands you do not see any gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S7FWe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;an OV (rental) bike, without gears&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(But if you think it is needed, three gears (or up to 8 gears) inner hub gears work well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently been cycling in the dunes quite a bit and see a lot of these (no gears) rental bikes. While the dunes are not high, the roads through them tend to go up and down all the time.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Young adults are less likely to want gears for a relatively flat area than any other age group. And students who can get a free or very cheap bike with no gears are more likely to take them, especially if the alternative is more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2019-08-26T18:17:35.867" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T18:17:35.867" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31483" CreationDate="2015-06-24T21:39:18.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an impossible question for the mapping sites to answer. They come up with heuristics about what makes a good route, that will do a pretty good job, but there is fine detail they do not and cannot know. For example, Your route 2 is the easiest on paper, but what if it poorly sealed with course chip and has lots of rubbish and stones in the shoulder. Route 1 has been recently sealed with smooth, fast hot top and has a wide clean shoulder. Route 1 would be better. What if route 2, getting onto the top of the ridge exposed you to a prevailing head wind that route 1 was sheltered from - in this case the best route changes daily (Where I live, hourly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to this, a good route is subjective - as already suggested by @bibz guys out for training rides have different definition of good to a commuter. As a MTBer, I have a different definition of good to a roadie, as I have much lower gearing I can climb steep hills roadies want to avoid, I careless about gravel roads, road works or poorly maintained roads than roadies. They tend to want to go faster (and further) then I do. I am a strong hill climber, and will take a hilly route over a flat route any day, there are many who hate hills and a much stronger than me on the flat. (TBH The vast majority who are stronger than me everywhere). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end technology cannot make you decisions for you, all it can do is make suggestions based on the data it has. Ask around locals for better advise, but in the end you have to actually ride the routes to work out which is best for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T21:39:18.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31370" CreationDate="2015-06-24T21:42:07.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are confused between &lt;strong&gt;tubular&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;tubeless&lt;/strong&gt;. Tubular tires are &quot;all in one&quot; tire where the inner tube is sewed inside the tire. Tubeless tires look like regular clincher tire and hooks in specially designed rims; these tubeless tire and rim provide an airtight seal so they can be inflated without an inner tube. Regular clincher tires are very similar, but require an inner tube to contain the air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a tubeless tire does require a hooked rim, but they are not tubular tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional detail : clincher tires can be installed in tubeless rims with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T21:42:07.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31467" CreationDate="2015-06-24T23:39:54.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You still want the axis approximately at 30% of your feet's length - that's when pedalling is most efficient. Just try to pedal with your feet's centre or back on pedal. Full-foot pedals accordingly will be asymmetric, implying they will be one sided and will tend to point to the ground with their backs when you're off-pedal making, as mentioned before they will then scrap over the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason shoes are stiff is efficiency: the stiffer your shoes the less they will compress each time you push onto the pedal. The energy this compression costs is proportional to how much your soles are compressed. This compression will be almost inelastic, meaning it will just heat up your shoes instead of pushing you forward. A rough estimate of the energy you lose: each half crank turn the pedals move by 34 cm down (twice the crank length), but due to compression of the sole, your feet move 34 cm + d. d=5 mm gives only 1.5% loss that should be hardly noticeable, it definitely feels like more. My argument might miss something or ergonomics is involved, which is hard to put into equations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T23:39:54.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-25T02:06:21.023" Score="40" ViewCount="9377" Body="&lt;p&gt;When riding through city traffic, what are the best ways to increase the chance you are seen, given a bit of space, and are not touched by any vehicles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T15:20:26.670" Title="Best ways to avoid getting hit by cars?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-25T03:28:57.030" Score="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;As cyclists, we are vulnerable to any collision. A collision with a truck, bus, car, bicycle, pram, skateboard, rollerblader, pedestrian, dog, or even a domestic cat, will almost always cause a problem, if not an injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vehicle drivers are just people like us, except that they are in a comfortable safe box, maybe with crying kids in the back, and a have just dropped an ice-cream on their lap. You cannot &lt;em&gt;expect&lt;/em&gt; them to be looking out for you all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's up to us to take 100% responsibility for our own safety. It doesn't help us if we were 100% in the right, but are 100% dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Choose where you ride. Avoid high speed and congested roads. Statistics show that the probability of a collision rises rapidly after the speed difference between two road users exceeds 20 kph (12 mph). So choose paths without vehicle traffic, or roads with lower speed traffic. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31585/how-does-the-risk-of-a-cyclist-colliding-with-a-vehicle-vary-with-the-speed-diff&quot;&gt;How does the risk of a cyclist colliding with a vehicle vary with the speed difference?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;D'oh! I originally left out &lt;strong&gt;Ride where other people ride, or ride with a buddy.&lt;/strong&gt; Drivers are much more likely to notice multiple riders. And when there is more than one of you it's not so easy to justify squeezing past. Finally, those drivers who might be tempted to drive dangerously close are intimidated by the you having a witness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoid turns in the middle of congested intersections. If you feel in danger, then ride at the side of the road across the intersection, wait for the lights to change, then continue on the crossroad. In my town this is called a square turn, in other places it's called a hook turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep reasonably close to the curb, about half a meter (yard) to one meter out. You need to ride in a straight line so that the vehicle drivers can predict your path, so ride where the road surface is at least adequate. In light traffic, move toward the curb a little as the vehicle approaches and then resume your position after the vehicle passes. In heavier traffic, just maintain your path. Some cyclists like to have a mirror to know what's happening behind them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Traffic behaviour can vary in different parts of the world, so take your local traffic conditions into consideration. In my town, the inner city traffic is congested but used to seeing cyclists. So if there is no bike lane, cyclists are generally able to mix with the traffic fairly safely &lt;em&gt;when the bikes are moving faster than the cars&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wear brightly colored clothing. In some parts of the world, black is fashionable. Avoid it. One advantage of a lot of so-called Lycra is that most of it is brightly colored. Some people wear hi-visibility industrial safety tops.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Always&lt;/em&gt; ride with lights turned on. If legal, then set them to flash mode. Choose lights that flash more than once per second. Slow flashing lights can be missed as drivers shift their attention quickly. Some places (Germany?) forbid flashing bike lights.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And stay alert. &lt;em&gt;Listen&lt;/em&gt; for traffic. &lt;em&gt;Don't&lt;/em&gt; rely on them seeing you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In some situations, you need to take a whole lane, so that the drivers behind don't drive too close by trying to squeeze past when there is not enough room. You should only do this when the traffic is moving at a similar speed to you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And as mentioned by mjsqu in comments, keep away from parked cars to avoid doors. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T04:47:00.740" CommentCount="23" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14801" CreationDate="2015-06-25T03:31:12.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though I am commenting long after the this question is already answered, I think it is worthwhile to point out some safety information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pins of modern 9 speed and up chains are mushroomed at the ends to prevent prying the chain apart with lateral force when changing gears.  Because of this, not only should pins no longer be re-used, but the bushings are also damaged by removing the pin, so should not be reused.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, when adjusting a pin at a stuck link, one should consider both whether the bushing may have been compromised, and if it may become compromised by loosening the pin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a reference to back up this thinking please see:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thetandemlink.com/articles/billschainltr.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thetandemlink.com/articles/billschainltr.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The application is slightly different and the info old, but I think it is valid to apply it to the case of stuck links as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conclusion is that removing the outer plates at a stuck link and replacing with a KMC &quot;missing link&quot; or equivalent is a safe solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T03:31:12.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31471" CreationDate="2015-06-25T06:07:16.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An 80kg person who rides vigorously for an hour burns about 2600kj of energy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is 37000kj in 1kg of fat, which is equivalent to the energy spent over 14 hours of vigorous riding. However, depending on the intensity, much of this energy will come from glucose in the muscles, so to burn 1kg of fat it might take 2 - 3 times longer. Say 28 to 42 hours of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, riding will also make you hungry, and if you eat too many carbohydrates they will be stored as fat, negating all that exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution that is becoming popular (again) is a low-carb high-fat diet (e.g. mcgyver5's answer). In this diet you replace most carbohydrates with fat. The body adapts over a week or so to using ketones (from fat) instead of glucose (from carbs) as it's main energy source, going into a state of 'nutritional ketosis'. Many people lose weight without exercise on this diet. Once you are used to the diet - 'keto-adapted' you can use fat more efficiently, and most of the energy for riding will come from your fat stores instead of glucose. You should have less hunger after riding and avoid hypoglycaemia (bonking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been on the diet for about 7 weeks, and ride casually between 30 mins and 1 hour a day, with some rides up to 2 hours with friends. I've lost 6kg over this period, and my brother on the same diet (but much fitter than I) has lost that belly fat you talk about. However, I have noticed on some rides I got leg cramps. The may be due to lack of water or salt. Some people recommending upping salt intake and taking magnesium supplements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also after waking in the morning you are in a state of ketosis so it might be beneficial to ride before breakfast (or eating anything)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZqDoG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addendum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The graph below shows the range of ketone bodies in the blood for various states of ketosis. Nutritional ketosis is 0.5 to 3.0 millimolar. Keto-acidosis occurs above 10 millimolar. From what I've read, keto-acidosis only occurs in diabetics and alcholics and won't happen on a LCHF diet. e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowcarbdietnews.com/what-is-ketosis-and-should-i-worry-about-it-on-a-low-carb-diet/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lowcarbdietnews.com/what-is-ketosis-and-should-i-worry-about-it-on-a-low-carb-diet/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s9xJl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20150" LastEditorUserId="20150" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T03:16:40.927" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T03:16:40.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-25T06:13:05.603" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be visible, be predictable (e.g. obey the rules, give hand signs, avoid sudden turns or braking) and leave a safety margin for the errors of others (e.g. don’t ride too close to parked cars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I prefer riding on roads like any other vehicle and with quite a bit of distance to the curb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I forgot “be attentive”. E.g. Look over your shoulder when doing a left turn. I’ve been overtaken on occasion despite indicating with my fully outstretched arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastEditorUserId="19529" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T08:59:02.390" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T08:59:02.390" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31473" CreationDate="2015-06-25T06:57:38.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important measurement is top tube length or how „stretched“ your position is. One can try to compensate with stem length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(I dont have any problems with reaching ground with my feet when I stop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That’s not necessary and actually often a sign for a too low saddle. Saddle height is usually not limited by frame size, unless you have very short or long legs. Saddle height is quite easily determined, just gradually raise the saddle until it’s too high (i.e. you (automatically) start tilting your hips left and right because your feet can’t reach the pedals). Fore and aft position is much harder to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T06:57:38.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-25T07:11:17.633" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the long term, you can also lobby and campaign for better cycling provision. The personal safety advice (better visibility etc.) is all valuable, but there is only so much you can do when a junction s poorly designed and creates conflict between different road users. Basically, if you feel unsafe on the road, then the road needs to be designed better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lobbying for better cycle lanes will of course not make cycling safer or more pleasant immediately, but there is a good chance you will see improvements over the years. In Edinburgh (where I live) we've seen huge steps forward, both in quantity and quality of cycle provision, thanks to very substantial and constructive campaigning by various groups, and by now almost all local councillors are publicly in favour of supporting cycling as sustainable transport that solves a lot of inner-city problems (congestion, noise, pollution, health etc.). Cycling into town feels significantly safer and more comfortable now than it did just five years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Write to your local politician and/or to the roads authorities arguing (politely) for improvements. It works best if you can be specific, e.g. explain the situation at a particular junction where you have most difficulties with other traffic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road authorities often have public consultations before roadworks or road redesigns. Take part, look at the plans, go to consultation events and comment if you feel that cyclists haven't been considered enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Join a local or national campaign group for better cycling provision; there are more and more popping up all over the world. They are aware of local developments and often have a lot of expertise on road design etc. Even if you don't have the time to become active yourself, just being a supporting member lends weight to their work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campaigning can be quite frustrating as you'll get a lot of opposition against your suggestions, but even if you don't see immediate results it will put cycling on the agenda and politicians become aware that the current situation is not good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T07:11:17.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31509" CreationDate="2015-06-25T07:31:35.067" Score="4" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a route I usually do that has some specific parts that look uphill but ride and feel as flat, and some parts that look flat but feel as uphill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides this being an optical illusion, which is my pet theory so far, are there any other possible causes for this phenomenon, like type of road, for example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastEditorUserId="2261" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T07:40:44.720" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T19:08:45.403" Title="Roads that look uphill feel flat and flat looking roads feel uphill. Possible causes?" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31442" CreationDate="2015-06-25T07:37:05.460" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Carel says - there are limit screws to prevent the chain from going out of range.  It is important to set those limits correctly or the chain will fall off.  Did the LBS not check the limit settings?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with a new chain and new correctly set derailleur, the chain can and will jump off the sprocket if the limit screws are not set properly.  In the high gears (7 and 8 as you say) the chain will inevitably have more slack.  If the limit screw is not set, the front derailleur will momentarily go too far out when you change the front gear from lo to hi (inside to outside).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also true that any of chain, cassette, sprocket, derailleur, etc., could be involved - when any component is not in good condition the margin of error for the other components may be exceeded.  So yes you should check your chain as the chain is usually the first component to wear out, especially if it is not cleaned and lubricated thoroughly every N miles (or every M months whichever comes first).  If your chain is already worn out, then you will need to replace the cassette as well.  Front sprockets can usually survive longer being used with a worn chain, but the cassette is usually a goner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastEditorUserId="18785" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T18:15:09.733" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T18:15:09.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31529" CreationDate="2015-06-25T08:55:35.380" Score="2" ViewCount="1958" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have been commuting to work on my bike for about 12 months. The route takes me over a mixture of asphalt and some rocky forest trails. Just last week, I managed to get my rear wheel buckle. It got continuously worst over the last few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is a Raleigh trekker bike. Similar to this one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raleigh-bikes.de/en/modelle/2014/trekking-sport/rushhour-10.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.raleigh-bikes.de/en/modelle/2014/trekking-sport/rushhour-10.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some techniques that I can use to minimise buckling my rear wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update: Thanks for the info. I had a closer look and found that the spoke was not able to extend itself enough to accommodate the bending of the rim. This must have occurred when I side hit a rock in the forest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7osZd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1657" LastEditorUserId="1657" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T05:59:43.303" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T06:10:18.763" Title="How to avoid buckle wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31502" CreationDate="2015-06-25T09:33:19.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common cause in my vicinity is headwind / tailwind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are places where the background gives subtle clues indicating an inclination (or lack thereof) at odds with gravity. This is sometimes known as a 'gravity hill' or 'magnetic mountain', or something similar. There's a long list of places in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_gravity_hills&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These external clues can be of varied nature - trees growing at an angle to the ground due to prevailing winds, stratified rock formations with a slight slope or long sloping hills in the distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T09:33:19.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31473" CreationDate="2015-06-25T09:47:35.513" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Falling off the bicycle would be far more dangerous when the frame is too large. Especially if you ride on ice, cross-country, or use clipless pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You posture also should be grossly wrong given the stated size difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20154" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T09:47:35.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31477" CreationDate="2015-06-25T09:59:57.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Singlespeed is cheap and should be generally sufficient for loaning to students.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Anything with dérailleurs is too frail and requires too much maintenance in this conditions.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Planetary gear is always nice, but for this kind of situation it should be purchased only if the locale is really hilly, you can find them cheap for some reason, or you have money to burn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if there is bicycle factory or a large repair shop nearby, you may try asking them for discounts or special offers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20154" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T09:59:57.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31512" CreationDate="2015-06-25T10:06:57.803" Score="7" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I drive a car and I have a technical book (maintenance) and automatically I want to do the same for my newly bought bicycle. I would love to track repairs, maintenance schedules, changed / added parts, at the same time stats (weight, part durability per km), mileage and stuff like that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, when I bought my bike I did not receive any of such kind. So, my questions would be: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have 'technical maintenance book'?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe you have a digital template?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe I could buy one somewhere?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or maybe there is a better way you could suggest :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that good bike owners should properly take care of their bikes thus providing better value on resale and future maintenance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13357" LastEditorUserId="1593" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T09:25:57.813" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T09:25:57.813" Title="Bicycle maintenance notes, technical book: do you have one?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31502" CreationDate="2015-06-25T10:08:56.387" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our sense of gravity/balance is not very precise on its own and it is combined in the brain with visual clues and other information. For example, it is really difficult to hang a picture straight on a large wall if you don't have a level tool or can align it parallel to the floor/ceiling. There are a few effects that can distort your sense of what is &amp;quot;horizontal&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ames room is an optical illusion where you think lines to be perpendicular where in reality they aren't. If the surrounding hills, trees etc. form lines at certain angles (e.g. a ridge on the horizon that your brain expects to be horizontal but that really slopes), you can get a similar effect in nature. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ames_room&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; explains it in relation to &amp;quot;magnetic mountains&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;gravity hills&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ames' original design also contained a groove that was positioned such that a ball in it appears to roll uphill, against gravity. Richard Gregory regards this apparent &amp;quot;anti-gravity&amp;quot; effect as more amazing than the apparent size changes, although today it is often not shown when an Ames room is exhibited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He speculates that &amp;quot;magnetic hills&amp;quot; (also known as &amp;quot;gravity hills&amp;quot;) can be explained by this principle. For a magic mountain at an unnamed location in Scotland, he found that a row of trees form a background similar to the setting of an Ames room, making the water in a creek appear to flow uphill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, your brain adjusts the sense of balance over time. You often get this when you cycle up a long steep hill followed by a less steep road with very little inclination. The flatter road may look like actually going downhills (even though it's still uphills) because on the steep climb your brain adjusts and your sense of what is &amp;quot;horizontal&amp;quot; gets tilted a bit. Often, its only when you turn around that you actually get a real sense of the inclination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T10:08:56.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-25T10:17:41.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking as a driver, what you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be visible.  During the day, this means bright-colored clothing.  At night, lights and broad retro-reflector stripes.  Urban camouflage may be fashionable, but it's also a good way to keep drivers from seeing you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be predictable.  Because you are one of the slowest vehicles on the road, everyone else is reacting to you.  Make it easy for them: stay in the same lane and the same &lt;em&gt;part&lt;/em&gt; of the lane as much as possible, and signal your maneuvers well in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Follow the law.  This goes hand-in-hand with being predictable: those stop signs, red lights, and direction-of-travel laws apply to you just as much to a car.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you can't go a respectable fraction of the speed limit, stay off the road.  Most cars have a minimum practical speed (typically around 15 km/h - 10 mph), and if someone is constantly tapping their brakes to keep from rear-ending you, that's not a safe situation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20156" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T10:17:41.853" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31471" CreationDate="2015-06-25T10:38:11.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you exercise your muscles burn two fuels;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) fat&lt;br&gt;&#xA;b) glycogen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glycogen is carbohydrate stored in the muscles. Glycogen is quick and easy to metabolise, fat is slow and hard. Your body burns these fuels at different rates depending on how intensely you are working. At a low heart rate you burn more fat than glycogen. At high heart rate you start burning more glycogen because the rate at which you can metabolise fat isn't enough to supply the necessary energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its worth noting that the body still burns more fat and total calories at higher heart rates, so high intensity exercise will still burn more fat than low intensity exercise &lt;em&gt;for the same amount of time exercised&lt;/em&gt; ...and here is the key. You can keep up low intensity exercise for much longer than you can high intensity exercise. Double the time at half the intensity will burn more fat overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer therefore is to take &lt;strong&gt;regular long rides (2 hours or more) at low heart rate (heart rate zone 2)&lt;/strong&gt;. Try and do 3 or 4 long rides a week. To get this right you might want to invest in a heart rate monitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would &lt;strong&gt;disagree&lt;/strong&gt; with those suggesting high intensity exercise. All this does is quickly exhaust your glycogen and that's going to stop you exercising and make you want to eat more (when your glycogen levels get low your body releases chemicals that make you crave carbohydrates). 2 hours at zone 2 will not exhaust your glycogen so you should not feel the need to eat more. I would &lt;strong&gt;agree&lt;/strong&gt; with those suggesting you also improve your diet. Its easy to reduce your total calorie intake by cutting out the crap, eg sugary soft drinks, crisps and other snacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6407" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T10:38:11.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31508" CreationDate="2015-06-25T11:55:28.090" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maintenance on a bike is much less than maintenance on a car. It is a much, much simpler machine with far fewer parts. As such there isn't such a thing as a maintenance schedule or service book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are a few things you should do;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tyres&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Visual inspection and pressure check once per week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The chain needs to be cleaned and lubricated. The frequency will depend on how much and how long you ride, as well as the conditions. I ride on average 100-150 miles a week and do mine roughly once per fortnight. In the winter when it rains a lot and there is salt spread on the road it tends to be weekly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also check your chain for wear and stretching occasionally. You can buy a tool to measure the stretch. A decent chain will last anything from 5000-10000 miles or less if it isn't looked after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to replace your cassette when you replace your chain, but this can be expensive. Again, if looked after a cassette should last 10000 miles easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Brakes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Check and adjust every so often, maybe once per month. Brake cables stretch and the blocks wear out and need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gears&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once set up correctly gear mechanisms generally don't require much maintenance. On a new bike you may need to adjust after a month or so due to cable stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other components such as head sets, bottom brackets, wheel hubs etc are generally very long lasting and shouldn't require regular maintenance. In fact these mostly now come as unserviceable sealed units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6407" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T11:55:28.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-25T12:13:54.683" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are tips here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www1.toronto.ca/wps/portal/contentonly?vgnextoid=ce06970aa08c1410VgnVCM10000071d60f89RCRD&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Car Bike Collisions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I especially like the first tip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hBd0H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also there are tips about riding in traffic on pages 13 through 30 of this document: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mto.gov.on.ca/english/safety/pdfs/cycling-skills.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cycling&#xA;Skills&#xA;Ontario’s Guide to&#xA;Safe Cycling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's all good, including the pages about trucks and buses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the (Ontario-specific) law about riding on the right is interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;HTA 147 - Slow moving traffic travel on right side - any vehicle moving slower than the&#xA;  normal traffic speed should drive in the right-hand lane, or as close as practicable to the right edge of&#xA;  the road except when preparing to turn left or when passing another vehicle. For cyclists, you must&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;ride far enough out from the curb to maintain a straight line&lt;/strong&gt;, clear of sewer grates, debris, potholes,&#xA;  and parked car doors. You may occupy any part of a lane when your safety warrants it. Never&#xA;  compromise your safety for the convenience of a motorist behind you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I general I assume that drivers are looking forward (out of their windscreen) but never assume that they're looking out their side window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if I'm coming to an intersection where I have right of way (the other driver has a stop sign) then I watch for eye contact with the driver: if I have seen that they have seen me then I'm willing to cycle across their bow, otherwise (e.g. if they're looking in another direction) I might slow down, in case they pull out without having seen me, until they do look at me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll try to stay out of the way (preferring roads which have an official bike lane, or a road that's wide enough for me to ride in the curb) where cars can overtake me safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cars can't overtake me safely (because the road is too narrow) then I &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicular_cycling&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;take the lane&lt;/a&gt; in order to prevent cars from even trying to overtake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also try to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicular_cycling#Criticism&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ride fast enough&lt;/a&gt; that my doing this doesn't annoy drivers. I can't match their top speed but my acceleration (in congested city driving) is comparable. If the rate of flow of traffic on a given street is limited by the buses or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/?title=Tram&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;streetcars&lt;/a&gt; then I can keep up with (even overtake) them, so even when I'm in lane I'm not 'getting in the way' of drivers (because I'm keeping up with the vehicle ahead of me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use lights at night, and hand-signals before turning (and, sometimes, when slowing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep an ear out for traffic (and I avoid, e.g. by pulling into the curb/kerb, people who are gunning their engines). Obviously I watch what's ahead but (moreso than when driving a car) I watch for what's behind and beside me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have excellent brakes (hydraulic disk brakes) and I'm willing to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I avoid roads on which bikes are unexpected (e.g. a type of multi-lane city throughway whose top speed is 60 kph instead of the more usual 50 kph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T20:24:33.683" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T20:24:33.683" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-25T13:33:48.843" Score="8" ViewCount="1502" Body="&lt;p&gt;Context:&#xA;My bike shop includes free servicing as a standard with a new bike. I don't need such thing and live too far away. In lieu of waiver I can get €100 of stuff from the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best bike problem ever: I need to decide what to get for free form the bike shop...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone advise on what they would consider to be absolute essentials as a road/touring cyclist? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13892" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T17:21:14.280" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T16:58:45.767" Title="What are the absolute essentials a cyclist should own?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-06-27T03:15:01.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31514" CreationDate="2015-06-25T13:49:33.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I don`t have a definitive answer) .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would concentrate on what is most frustrating when it fails when riding a bike: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire and wheels maintenance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tire levers.&#xA;Good air pump.&#xA;Good tube patch kit.&#xA;Replacement tubes and tires.&#xA;A set of hex wrenches (check Imperial vs. Metric)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, you can add whatever you feel will help you maintain your bike (specific wrenches, lubrication and grease,...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Insipired by:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/home-wrench-building-a-cycling-tool-kit-from-scratch-43564/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/home-wrench-building-a-cycling-tool-kit-from-scratch-43564/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/maintenance/bicycle-tools/16-essential-bike-tools&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicycling.com/maintenance/bicycle-tools/16-essential-bike-tools&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13517" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T13:49:33.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31508" CreationDate="2015-06-25T14:20:41.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bikes don't really come with much of a guide or instructions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/big-blue-book-of-bicycle-repair-3rd-edition-BBB-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair&lt;/a&gt;  or one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1934030988&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1934030597&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mountain Bike Maintenance&lt;/a&gt;) and you'll have some pretty comprehensive guides on how to maintain, fix, or replace just about anything on your bike. Specialty tools may apply for various tasks though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Online resources are good as well. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;'s website for lots of great tips, with lots of commentary. Some info may not be as current as other resources though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T14:20:41.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31508" CreationDate="2015-06-25T14:22:50.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle maintenance is more generic than car maintenance due to design. Bikes don't often have any custom parts besides the frame. All the rest are usually off the self components from different vendors. So, there is not much point to have maintenance schedule for a particular bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, bikes usually don't come equipped by bike computers by default so it's not given that users can reliably keep track how long distance the bike has been ridden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep good care of your bike, I recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn how to inspect your bike and keep it tuned up. This is fairly simple. Mostly you just need to keep nuts tight and proper places lubricated and you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take your bike to shop for proper check up at least once every year or riding season. Doing it before any longer bike trip is also good policy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Store your bicycle properly. Keeping bike indoors over winter does a lot for lifetime of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it. Learning to do basic repairs is pretty easy, can save a lot of money down the line and is pretty much required if you intend to go touring or do more serious riding. So I would recommend that you buy a generic book about bicycle maintenance and a basic tool set and prepare to get you hands dirty every now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19611" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T14:22:50.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31514" CreationDate="2015-06-25T14:36:46.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you already have the usual tools and clothing you can always need more of the typical wear parts: Tires, tubes, chains, brake pads, chain oil, cables, pants …&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I’d start with a proper stand pump, mini pump (for on the bike), tubes, chain tool, hex keys, lock, bottles, helmet …&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clothing is of course essential but hard to guess the right size for ordering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T14:36:46.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30214" CreationDate="2015-06-25T14:43:29.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do the cogs’ teeth look? Are some cogs’ really pointy? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the first new chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually a cassette should last for several chains if you replace the chains in time and wear down the cogs evenly (i.e. don’t drive on the same cog all the time, especially the smaller ones which wear faster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T14:43:29.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31514" CreationDate="2015-06-25T14:49:21.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go for a good floor pump, as I find it can be extremely important in preventing flats. One big problem I see is underinflated tires. This can cause flats and other problems like rim damage.  A good floor pump will make it not so much of a chore to ensure your tires are always properly topped up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on leaving your bike anywhere except your garage, then a good bike lock is also quite essential.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have those things, then I would probably opt for replacing the stock tires.  Often the stock tires on bikes aren't great, and you would be able to get a pretty good set of tires for that amount of money.  Could easily save you from lots of frustration down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T14:49:21.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31508" CreationDate="2015-06-25T15:45:40.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &quot;Bicycle Diary&quot;, just a plain notebook where I keep a log with every maintenance task done (parts changed, chain lubing, greasing, ...), rides (where, when, how long, ...) and general notes. I also made a chart with entries for each component (chain, cassette, pads, ...) and the odometer lecture when I changed it (so I can know when a replacement is due).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5369" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T15:45:40.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31514" CreationDate="2015-06-25T16:16:04.243" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what I tell everyone to get first when they get a new bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seatbag, to hold the following:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare tube (maybe two)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small multitool &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mini-pump or CO2 inflator &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire patch kit &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x tire levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That assumes you have bidons and cages.  Those six things should get you by for many miles and should get you out of any trailside emergencies.  As with anything though, make sure you know how to use them when the need arises.  For your own personal bike shop, I'd recommend a good floor pump with a pressure gauge, some high quality chain lube, and a maintenance book for DIY repairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a helmet should be entirely recommended as a required purchase, and probably front and rear lights.  Nothing hurts worse then getting hit by a motorist that &quot;didn't see you&quot; at an intersection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20165" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T16:16:04.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31504" CreationDate="2015-06-25T16:43:08.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to really prevent buckling or taco-ing from happening is to avoid impacting potholes, curbs or other tall edges.  If avoidance is impossible, try to shift weight off the wheel by leaning more forwards or back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get beefier wheels with a higher spoke count to add strength to help absorb the blows.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately you should purchase a spoke wrench and check the tension on the spokes to keep the wheels true; prevention is the best medicine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20165" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T06:10:18.763" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T06:10:18.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-25T17:01:35.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the advice you're getting here is great, but a few caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When hand-signaling, wave your hand a little, or even raise and lower your arm a couple times. I believe it triggers an instinctive response in people who see that in their peripheral vision (&quot;Ooh! Who's that waving at me? Do I know this person?&quot;), and they notice me far more often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As cars are approaching, and are still well behind you, turn your head to look back.  Again, I believe it triggers that same instinctive response.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you live in a region where riding with blinking lights is illegal, encourage every local cycling group to lobby for a change to that law.  It's stupid, and only creates a higher risk of collision.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously don't ride at night with blinking headlights, but always use a blinking taillight. But in the daytime, if allowed, do it 100% of the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get bright lights! Most cheaper lights just don't attract enough attention.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When using a bike lane, hug the line until vehicles are near you, then fade toward the curb as they're passing (if you won't get doored), just as you would do on roads without bike lanes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get some hi-vis stickers and apply them to different areas of your bike.  Under vehicle headlights, they're as visible as bike lights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When taking the lane, ride in front of the driver's position to increase your odds of being seen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've followed these guidelines for the past six years without incident, on an asphalt-grey bike with black fenders, and without wearing any bright clothing (not that brighter clothing is unnecessary - just not my style).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6796" LastEditorUserId="6796" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T02:39:17.530" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T02:39:17.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-25T17:35:48.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get your country to invest in proper infrastructure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When people driving and people cycling do not share the same roads, the chances on accidents are much smaller.&#xA;But the infrastructure has to be made right. Learn from the experience the Dutch gained in the last 30 years and build what we get now, not what we now know does not work the best (like those advance bike boxes at crossings.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the best site in the world about cycling infrastructure is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aviewfromthecyclepath.com/2013/04/the-netherlands-sets-best-example-but.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A view from the cycle path&lt;/a&gt;, and this link gives you the page on what to copy when building infrastructure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Netherlands sets the best example, but don't copy anything just because it is &amp;quot;Dutch&amp;quot;.  While Germany is a genuine leader in renewable energy, and Danish design is known across the world, it is the Netherlands that should be looked to as the leader in cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added:&#xA;I see from the downvotes that people do not like my solution, but there is proof, and plenty of it, that it is the best and only real working solution. Read the site I linked to for many more arguments and proof.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;An other source of information on what works and why it works, for safe cycling, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0intLFzLaudFG-xAvUEO-A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Not Just Bikes,&lt;/a&gt; in this case with a video about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjzzV2Akyds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Copenhagen compared to Amsterdam.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is a channel where most of the videos are great to explain why cycling works in the Netherlands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2020-07-22T15:20:26.670" LastActivityDate="2020-07-22T15:20:26.670" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30214" CreationDate="2015-06-25T17:55:07.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it skipping across all gears or just a few? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's across all gears - and especially in the smallest (hardest to push) cogs - chances are the derailleur needs adjustment which is handled by the barrel adjuster (the knob on the back of the derailleur where the cable housing enters the derailleur). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do this in small increments - 1/4 turn counter clockwise at a time. If the skipping gets worse start turning in the other direction (keep a count of how many 1/4 turns you make). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If adjustments at the barrel adjuster make no difference you could have a bent derailleur hanger (the small tab on the frame the rear derailleur bolts to). You'll need a special derailleur alignment gauge to fix this. Generally speaking, the more cogs you have in back the more finicky the drivetrain becomes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T23:17:12.393" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T23:17:12.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31370" CreationDate="2015-06-25T18:09:00.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a tubular tire. Tubular tires are held to the rim with glue and are pretty much only used in racing due to their cost and the hassles of replacing them when they flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clinchers (including tubeless clinchers) rely on a wire or Kevlar bead in the tire and a sidewall on the rim to hold the tire to the wheel. Some rims have a lip - or hook - on them to help hold the tire on the wheel, especially in the event of a flat. Using a tire intended for use on a hooked rim on a rim rim that does not include a hook/lip could result in the tire peeling off in the event of a flat. If this happens at high speed the results could be disastrous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:09:00.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31366" CreationDate="2015-06-25T18:15:21.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's identical to what I have on my cyclocross bike from running too wide tires, except my rub damage is to aluminum.  Since you already checked the skewers, check the dish of the wheel to see how close its coming to the chainstay, also check if there is play in the axle/hub, that may cause extra flex.  A lot of power can cause frame flex and tire contact.  Those tubes down there are pretty beefy, but a lot of rub will grind right through. I'd say its safe, for now, but keep an eye on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20165" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:15:21.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31504" CreationDate="2015-06-25T18:18:14.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by checking the tension on the spokes of your wheel. To do this you'll need a spoke wrench that fits your spokes. There are lots of fancy tools for the job, but all you &lt;strong&gt;have&lt;/strong&gt; to have is the spoke wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within reason, the tighter the better. Ideally what you will have is even tension on all of the spokes on one side of the wheel. There are fancy tensiometers to show you what you've got (and very effective and inexpensive apps for smart phones like &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/spoke-tension-gauge/id518870820?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spoke Tension Gauge&lt;/a&gt;), or if you've got a good ear you can pluck the spokes like a guitar string and get an idea of how even the spoke tensions are by the pitch you hear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially important on the rear wheel where the gear cluster means that the hub isn't symmetrical and more tension is required on the drive side (right) spokes to keep the rim centered and true. If the drive side isn't tight enough, then the non-drive side will be too loose to support the rim adequately. One way you'll notice that the spokes are too loose is that you'll hear &quot;pinging&quot; noises from the wheel as you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With disc brakes you can get away with a lot of wobble in the wheel, so I'd really encourage you to try it yourself before having a &quot;pro&quot; work on your wheel. It is fun and kind of meditative – just remember that everything affects everything else, and once the wheel is getting up to tension it makes sense to make balanced changes – tighten one spoke and loosen the spokes it pulls against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know more about building and working on wheels, see if your library has &lt;a href=&quot;http://smile.amazon.com/The-Bicycle-Wheel-3rd-Edition/dp/0960723668/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2096965542?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;*Version*=1&amp;amp;*entries*=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Bicycle Wheel&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; by Jobst Brandt, Sheldon Brown also has posts on &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wheel building&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/truing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;truing and other repairs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:18:14.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31402" CreationDate="2015-06-25T18:32:20.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are able to seat the crank arm onto the axle such that it hits the green area you marked (i.e., it will slide all the way down the taper), then the crank arm is &quot;worn out.&quot; The taper on the crank has been enlarged by wear or over tightening to the point where it can no longer form a solid connection to the axle. The &quot;right&quot; fix would be a new crank arm, but it seems like you could try the ideas suggested in the comments above. Do check the condition described by @mikes, if the axle is sticking out beyond the crank arm then grinding will not work, but then you are also likely to have quite a bit of room for a shim :-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're game to experiment, my biggest concern would be that there might be cracks starting to develop in the corners of the crank arm socket from the stresses of the arm trying to rotate on the axle. Eventually those could lead to the crank arm failing at the socket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:32:20.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31502" CreationDate="2015-06-25T19:08:45.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have experienced three types of this kind of missperception where visual clues and psychology play a big role:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An almost uniform slope but curvy road designed for cars. Obviously, when cycling you go on one side of the road. This, combined with the banked turns makes you feel like turns towards one side are much easier than opposite turns. Naturally the banking alters the actual slope angle at the sides of the road, but also the perspective of the road against the presumed vertical pines around it accentuates the difference between the expected effort and the actual effort of riding each next curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another case is a short stretch of road that first goes down and then goes up. When traveling by car on that place, you feel that the first part is a steep descent and the second part is a steep ascent. But when traveling by bike, the &quot;feel&quot; is not as much. First in the descent you don't get as much &quot;free speed&quot; as you expect, so you &quot;pedal hard&quot; to help overcome the following ascent, but when you actually climb, you feel like if you where 2 or 3 gears lower than you are (effort wise). In this case, the lack of a visual reference of a horizontal line in the traveling direction fools the brain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third case is a coastal road that leads to a climb but before the beginning of the climb, there is a diversion that goes down to a boating club. Since both the main road and the diverted exit go along for a few meters, when you go over the main road you visually feel like you are ascending, but with very low effort. I.e. the brain is fooled into thinking the climb starts sooner then it actually does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have also experienced &quot;temporal&quot; delusions that Include wind effects, bike condition and physical condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wind effects are pretty obvious. I know places where winds regularly change during the day, so you may have better luck climbing in the morning than late in the afternoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sloppy maintenance on the bike can lead to more perceived effort, thus leading to feel a flat like it was a climb. At least in my case, I do my own bike maintenance, but sometimes I'm less careful and omit some revisions. So I take my bike (fooling myself) thinking it is in perfect working order while in reality, hubs, chain or derailleur pulleys needed deeper cleaning... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, something that has happened to me a lot, is that riding a route, I feel pretty energetic the whole time, but the truth is I'm more tired by the end of it, so the sloped in the last part of the route are perceived steeper than they actually are. With flats it means you'd feel them like climbs. This can be proved with large looped routes. If you start in what usually is the middle point of the route, at first you will feel like the climbs have been flattened (respect to your memory of them) and at the end, you'll feel the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T19:08:45.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31514" CreationDate="2015-06-25T20:10:20.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a quality bike, it will attract professional bike (part) thieves –  which are everywhere, like bacteria – and you should invest in a quality &lt;strong&gt;U-lock&lt;/strong&gt; and a set of good &lt;strong&gt;anti-theft skewers&lt;/strong&gt; for the wheels and seat post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19862" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T20:10:20.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31514" CreationDate="2015-06-25T23:13:42.293" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bicycle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helmet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suitable clothing and shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cellphone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever else you &quot;need&quot; depends on your mechanical abilities and how independent you wish to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T23:13:42.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3756" CreationDate="2015-06-26T03:54:25.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bars are steel, it might be possible to bend them back safely, although difficult (steel bars are very stiff).  If the bars are aluminum, throw them away.  Aluminum, especially high strength aluminum, is very susceptible to metal fatigue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20180" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T03:54:25.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30214" CreationDate="2015-06-26T03:59:53.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an old chain wears, the rollers get smaller and the chain settles deeper into the teeth of the gears. This results in more wear on the gears and, over time, the teeth will get pointier. Because the chain rollers are thicker on a new chain, it will sit higher on the teeth of the gears and when the teeth are worn enough the chain will slip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the length of the chain won't help. Contrary to popular belief, chains do not stretch significantly; the distance measured between the rollers is longer because the rollers become smaller as they wear. Past the .75 wear mark on a chain tool the gears will wear faster, at 1.0 the chain is at a higher risk of breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution for you at this time is to purchase and install a new cassette. Be certain to clean the chain and gears frequently to remove grit and metal shavings. Along with proper lubrication this should help keep the rear cassette in good condition longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20178" LastEditorUserId="20178" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T04:06:08.677" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T04:06:08.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-26T07:34:41.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Visible clothing has been mentioned a couple times before. I'd like to add one suggestion within that theme: you can even wear fluorescent yellow or orange clothing, like this one I found on Google's image search:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aD1nt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's light weight, practicial, dirt cheap and very visible. Especially in dawn or dusk, they seem to emit light themselves. And they are ugly. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20183" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T07:34:41.813" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31404" CreationDate="2015-06-26T08:57:30.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, to post dlu's comments as an answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have you checked the inside of the tire for a loose object? I'm thinking that there might be a small piece of glass or metal that is loose inside the tire. It could be moving around as you inspect the tire, so you might not see it (it would be at the bottom). Being on the spoke side makes it a bit more puzzling. Have you looked under the rim strip to see if there is a spoke that is sticking up? –  dlu Jun 21 at 3:16&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have you turned the tire &quot;inside out&quot; or in some way looked carefully for a foreign object that is free inside the tire? You know how hard it can be to get water out of an old tire? I'm wondering if something like that could be happening to you with a sharp object that &quot;floats around.&quot; –  dlu Jun 22 at 21:19&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another thought would be that the rim strip isn't doing its job and the tube is getting cut on the edge of a spoke hole, or maybe just over stressed if the rim strip allows part of the tube to slide by it into a spoke hole. –  dlu Jun 22 at 21:21&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's an unsupported speculation on my part: your old tube had aged poorly (thus springing leaks easily), the second patch just didn't take, and the new tube came pre-punctured from the factory. I readily admit that this is too complicated to be likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20186" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T08:57:30.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5647" CreationDate="2015-06-26T09:41:04.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say don't use cleats or SPD's whatever their called in traffic until you are totally used and confident with them. I still use toe clip saddles as I cannot afford a fall having had a slipped disc. And aged 63.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20189" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T09:41:04.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21122" CreationDate="2015-06-26T10:53:34.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you discovered (see comments), your chuck was defective/broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Please consider closing this question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20186" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T10:53:34.143" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2018-09-29T17:53:54.367" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31451" CreationDate="2015-06-26T10:59:17.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Daniel R Hicks's answer-as-a-comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As it says, it's intended for lubricating sliding parts. Not ideal for ball bearings. –  Daniel R Hicks 2015-06-23 11:48:24Z&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Dry lubricants&quot; are not a good choice for ball bearings, as they do not exclude water. The #1 role of bicycle bearing grease is to keep water out. –  Daniel R Hicks 2015-06-25 12:05:18Z&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20186" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T10:59:17.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-26T12:41:06.187" Score="1" ViewCount="1634" Body="&lt;p&gt;An online store currently offers the Dahon Curve XL with a Shimano Nexus 8 IGH (The Dahon site shows the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dahon.com/mainnav/folding-bikes/single-view/bike/curve_xl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nexus 7 model&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to replace it with an Alfine 11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does someone know if the OLD (Over Locknut Distance) is the same, and whether it could be an easy replacement?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus-mech.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus-mech.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2922" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T19:37:34.897" Title="Can an Alfine 11 replace a Nexus 8?" Tags="&lt;folding-bicycle&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-26T15:15:03.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be assertive. If you need to take up a whole lane take up a whole lane, you have as many rights (in the UK at least) as cars. It will annoy drivers, but I'd rather someone shouted abuse at me as they drove past than have someone hit me because they couldn't see me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also stay 2-3 feet out from the pavement/sidewalk and parked cars. This will make cars slow down to get round you instead of squeezing through a small gap, and if they try to squeeze past you have enough space to dive into. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as everyone else says, be predictable, follow the rules, be visible and be sensible. Doesn't matter if you're in the right you are always coming second in a collision with a car.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20153" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T15:15:03.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31545" CreationDate="2015-06-26T16:02:52.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the Shimano site is kind of confusing. There are 2 alfine models listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/content/seh-bike/en/home/city---comfort/drivetrain/internal-geared-hubs/sg-s700-s.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SG-S700-S&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/content/seh-bike/en/home/city---comfort/drivetrain/internal-geared-hubs/sg-s501-s.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SG-S501-S&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first has an axle length of 187mm, and an over locknut distance of 135mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second has an axle length of 135mm and an over locknut distance of 187mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think they might have swapped the measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 Nexus 8 speed hubs that I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/content/seh-bike/en/home/city---comfort/drivetrain/internal-geared-hubs/sg-8c31.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SG-8C31&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/content/seh-bike/en/home/city---comfort/drivetrain/internal-geared-hubs/sg-8r36.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SG-8R36&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They both show measurements of 132mm axle length, and 184mm over locknut distance. This is a difference of 3 mm in both axle length and over locknut distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have enough knowledge to say whether or not that is close enough to be compatible. Perhaps with this information somebody else who is more experienced in this could speak to whether or not they are compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T16:02:52.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31514" CreationDate="2015-06-26T16:58:45.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the type of tour you are doing. My 20 mile work commute requires panniers, cold and wet weather gear for the winter, lights for early morning and late evenings along with the common small items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Two spare tubes&#xA;2. Patch kit&#xA;3. Bike-specific multi-tool&#xA;4. Frame-fit pump&#xA;5. Emergency identification&#xA;6. Water bottle with water&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular ID, insurance info, cash, phone, clothing, keys, safety equipment, bike lock, shoes to fit my clipless pedals, and other items taken for granted are assumed to be on the list. Ziplock bags for anything that can't get wet may also be added to the list. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I choose to use a GPS enabled cycling computer for courses and routing. On my tour from Maine to Florida, I carried significantly more. For closer to home touring, one can go a long way with little more than a patch kit and a pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20178" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T16:58:45.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-26T18:12:10.347" Score="0" ViewCount="852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a wheelset with a Campagnolo cassette body. I want to run Sora 9-speed brifters with my wheelset. Will this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that it will because according to the information posted on Sheldon's site (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html&lt;/a&gt;), and that a Campagnolo cassette with Shimano spacers is within 0.03mm of a Shimano cassette's spacing all the time, and this matches the tolerances of a SRAM cassette - which is known to work with Shimano components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Campy cog is 1.75mm thick. A Shimano cassette is 1.78mm thick. A SRAM cassette is 1.8mm thick. However, SRAM spacers are 2.54mm thick. Shimano spacers are 2.56mm thick. So it appears that SRAM makes up for its extra cog thickness by reducing spacer thickness. There is a 0.05mm difference between a SRAM cog and a Shimano cog, but the spacer is thinner on SRAM setups - by 0.02mm, so the net difference between Shimano and SRAM in terms of cog center to cog center is only 0.03mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Campagnolo cassette with Shimano spacers will similarly have a 0.03mm tolerance as Campagnolo sprockets are 0.03mm thinner than Shimano cassettes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, will it work? Any real life experiences? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastEditorUserId="14039" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T18:28:53.900" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T22:09:24.733" Title="Sora 9 Speed on Campagnolo Cassette" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3756" CreationDate="2015-06-26T18:50:05.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bars are 100% not steel. Steel bars are almost always found only on track bikes and are almost always chrome plated or polished. That bike looks to be an entry level Bianchi (note the Sora shifters) so the bars are almost certainly the stock alloy models it shipped with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is aluminum is a metal that doesn't like to be repeatedly bent. It's more flexible than steel (which is why it's used on road bars while stiffer steel is used for track bikes) but it also fatigues faster. Those bars are pretty badly bent and it's hard to tell how much fatigue life they have left in them at this stage. You can try and bend it back but really it's better that you just replace them. A new pair of handlebars is a lot cheaper than a trip to the ER because your handlebar snapped when you hit a pothole! You can get a new handlebar for as little as $30 online and you'll need to budget another $10 for new handlebar tape. It's a pretty simple job and the most time consuming part is usually retaping the handlebars. Just be careful when tightening the bolts which clamp the brake/shift levers to the bars and also be sure to tighten the 4 stem bolts in alternating order (like lug nuts on a car wheel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When buying a new bar be sure to get the same size. Road bars are measured by their width with 40, 42 and 44cm being the most common sizes. That bike is fairly small so the bars are most likely 40cm. The size is usually marked near where the bar is clamped by the stem. You can also measure them by measuring the straight line from the center of one end of the bar to the center of the other end of the bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T18:50:05.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31549" CreationDate="2015-06-26T18:51:43.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A normal Campagnolo cassette will work, but possibly not as smoothly as pure Shimano or Campagnolo setup. The width difference between 9-speed Shimano and Campagnolo cassettes is 1.9 mm. If you adjust the derailleur for middle cog and fix the smallest and largest cogs with limit screws, cogs 2 and 8 will be off by 0.73 mm. This setup has been used in races where neutral support has only one brand of wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mix in Shimano spacers, the largest error will be 0.1 mm, well below tolerances in derailleur or adjusting accuracy. It will work. You may need an extra spacer below the cassette to compensate for the width difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T18:51:43.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-26T22:00:24.450" Score="4" ViewCount="1312" Body="&lt;p&gt;The brake levers on the bike for my son are too far apart for him to grab comfortably; can the lever be changed to adjust for his smaller hands? His bike is a Magna Hardtail with a linear pull system. I understand that I can replace them with short pull brake levers. What do you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20197" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T01:02:04.383" Title="Short Pull Brake Levers" Tags="&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31549" CreationDate="2015-06-26T22:09:24.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it works. I ran a Campy hub and cassette with Shimano DuraAce shifters and derailleurs with no problem. Chain was usually SRAM or Shimano. 9 speed is wonderfully versatile in this regard! Just make sure your rear derailleur hanger is straight. That tends to exaggerate tolerance discrepancies more than anything else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T22:09:24.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31553" CreationDate="2015-06-26T22:15:38.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a linear pull system (i.e. V-brakes), you need to have a &lt;strong&gt;long pull lever&lt;/strong&gt; (*). V-brakes look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jikKE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short pull levers are for regular cantilever brakes or caliper brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need kids brakes, you're likely going to have to look in the parts bin at your bike shop or something. Specialized lists the hotrock 24 being spec'd with some Tektro levers, but I don't see anything specially made for kids on the tektro site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try unbolting the existing brake levers at the clamp to the handlebars and changing their positions along the bar along with their angle (as well as possibly the handlebar's angle). As pointed out by mikes in the comments: &quot;There may be a small set screw on the lever frame. It is near the cable entry point. By screwing in the screw you shorten the amount of throw the lever has. It brings the &quot;start &quot;or &quot;at rest&quot; point closer to the hand grip.&quot; This screw is known as the reach adjustment screw (or by some similar name).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/linear-pull-brake-service-v-brake-type&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;park tool&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9lTL0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) I recognize there are mini-v brakes (which are V-brakes which need short pull levers), but I seriously doubt you'd find one on a BSO like a Magna. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T01:02:04.383" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T01:02:04.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31565" CreationDate="2015-06-26T22:27:39.273" Score="4" ViewCount="4617" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is related to this recent question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31494/best-ways-to-avoid-getting-hit-by-cars&quot;&gt;Best ways to avoid getting hit by cars?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 750 lumens front head light - it's bright! Some of my riding buddies say it is too bright for the streets as it blinds drivers. I disagree that it is truly blinding drivers and think that means it is just doing a better job of making me visible. Is it possible for a light to be too bright? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration for this is bike paths at night. Obviously a light doesn't need to be as bright on a bike path as a busy city street, but I do feel bad for the oncoming pedestrians that seem to be wincing when I approach. What is the proper etiquette for approaching in these situations. Turning off my light doesn't seem like a good idea. Also, I'm not really interested in jimmy rigging a lens-guard on my light, or purchasing a new one (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/28705/bike-lights-with-beam-cut-off-to-avoid-dazzling-drivers&quot;&gt;Bike lights with beam cut-off to avoid dazzling drivers?&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, on a couple occasions, drivers at intersections have complimented my lights noting how easy it was to see me! I assume they are referring to my tail light, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T08:56:47.030" Title="Is it possible to get a light that is too bright?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31442" CreationDate="2015-06-26T22:31:26.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carel misses the point that there is no front derailleur so it's definitely not a limit screw issue on the front derailleur! It's also highly unlikely the chainring is worn from just 3,000km. It's also unlikely to be the chain given that you changed it not that long ago. Finally, limit screws very rarely come out of adjustment on their own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think people are failing to recognize that this is a folding bike and that you've been touring on it. I would unhook the chain from the front chainring and carefully inspect the teeth on the chainring. It's very possible that one of them has been bent and is throwing the chain off the chainring. This is more common on folding/travel bikes. It's fine in most of your gears because the chain running at a fairly straight angle (when you look down at it). When you hit your outer cogs you'll see the chain is running at more of an angle. If one of the chainring teeth are bent even a little they'll start to catch the chain and keep it from fully seating on the chainring and instead will derail the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good way to check this: Next time this happens try to make note of where the crank arm is pointing when the chain comes off. Is it in the 3 o'clock position? 9 o'clock position? Now put the chain on and start riding again. Try to replicate the problem. Was the crank arm in roughly the same position as before? If so it's almost certainly a bent tooth on the chain ring. The fix is to carefully file the burr on the tooth so it no longer catches the chain. You'll probably want to let a competent, trained mechanic handle that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, check the cable tension. If the shifting is consistently off through all 8 gears than the cable that runs from the shift lever on the handlebars to the rear derailleur (the thing at the back of the bike that actually moves the chain) has developed some slack or stretch (though technically this isn't true). This is a really easy, tool free fix. Where the cable loops around and enters the rear derailleur you should see a small knob. Turn it 1/4 turn counter clockwise. No see if the bike shifts more smoothly. If it's a little better then you've found your problem. Give the knob (called a barrel adjuster) another quarter turn and then try shifting through all 8 gears again. Repeat this process until the gears are shifting smoothly through all 8 gears in both directions. Key here is don't turn the barrel adjuster more than 1/4 turn at a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final likely issue is the small metal tab on the frame that the rear derailleur bolts to. This is called the derailleur hanger and it's very easy for it to get bent inwards (never lay your bike on it's right side!) If it's bent even a tiny bit it can make it impossible for the derailleur to properly line up with each cog on the rear wheel. Only real way to check and fix this is with a derailleur hanger alignment gauge which is a special purpose tool. Every bike shop will have one and it only takes a few minutes for them to bolt it on your bike and check if the alignment is correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T22:31:26.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31557" CreationDate="2015-06-26T22:34:05.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not just the number of lumens you have (*) -- its the distribution. You need to aim your light at the ground at an appropriate angle, not into the eyes of motorists. If you have something like a flood light like the coast guard uses, thats no good to aim -- bicycle-specific lights will be easier to aim in a proper manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your light is aimed properly, pedestrians shouldn't really have a problem as well and you shouldn't be blinding cars. Look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikelightdatabase.com/beamshots/#left%5Bmode%5D=3&amp;amp;left%5Blight%5D=urban700&amp;amp;right%5Bmode%5D=27&amp;amp;right%5Blight%5D=blaze2w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;beamshots&lt;/a&gt; on @nhinkle's bikelightdb for seeing what appropriate aim looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) You didn't mention the model of light. Just because it says x lumens doesn't mean you're getting x lumens. Also, in regards to distribution, there were some cheap Chinese lights (~10-20 USD) which had very high light output and were very cheap a few years ago (used big batteries and stuff). These were somewhat problematic as you couldn't aim the beam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An aside: As a driver, I find these new blue-white LED lights on Audis and similar a bit distracting. So the color can be a bit distracting, but no bike light is nearly that intense anyway so the point is somewhat moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T22:34:05.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-26T22:49:03.337" Score="1" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my new job I'll have to commute about 10 - 20km (6 - 12mi) each day (one trip) in flat terrain. Right now, I'm commuting 6km/4mi each day, with an elevation gain of 160m uphill to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm riding a hybrid bicycle with a gear hub (only one gear lever) and a straight handle bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that for my new route, a more aerodynamic position would be nice and I'm pondering about a better handlebar choice -- drop handlebars or tri bars as addition to my straight handlebar? Is it just a matter of personal preference, or are there general pros and cons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The route will be mostly on a seperate bike lane next to a road with little traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20196" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T17:26:48.200" Title="Commuting on flat terrain/handle bar" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31557" CreationDate="2015-06-26T22:49:29.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, it's like overkill if you're riding on the street. I use a Busch &amp;amp; Muller lamp powered by a dynamo hub and it puts out plenty of light even when riding downhill on potholed roads. Also keep in mind lumens is only one factor in determining light quality. It's sort of like having a computer with a fast processor but not enough memory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More important are the actual optics which disburse the light. A lot of lights - even really expensive ones - come with nothing more than a plain lens on them which means a lot of the light they put out isn't lighting up the ground in front of you. No point in having 750 lumens if most of it doesn't illuminate the ground in front of you. Peter White has some good examples of how important beam pattern is in determining how good a light is in the real world: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is where the light is mounted. A powerful light mounted up high (helmet or handlebars) can wash out the terrain making it tricky to spot a pothole. There's a reason why randonneurs - who often ride throughout the night -  prefer to mount their lights lower (usually on the fork)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If people are wincing when you approach then your light is almost certainly aimed too high. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T22:49:29.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31557" CreationDate="2015-06-26T22:59:12.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can easily test if your light is too bright. Leave it on your bike and see how it looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays there are lots of too bright LED flashlights and headlamps the market that were not designed for cycling. Problem is they flood the light to very wide angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a light made for cycling that has different modes for different use cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20002" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T22:59:12.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24339" CreationDate="2015-06-26T23:49:06.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easiest way to put the pin back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull the link apart just enough to set the pin from the inside.  Make sure one side is straight and tap it in with a hammer.  Flip it over and tap the other side in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can do it in about 30 seconds and no hootin' and hollerin'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20201" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T23:49:06.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-26T23:56:58.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wear a full Batman suit with a night reflective cape. The Batman suit should offer good visibility for the person wearing the suit, will have a cool cape that flaps in the wind, and has places to put all those gadgets so you don't have to have them in your ears and eyes. I don't bicycle on the road anymore but as a driver you can bet I'll be staring down both the rider and the bicycle as I drive by if I see Batman. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of the ideas in this thread that increase the chances of eye contact will help you as it is harder to ignore somebody who has made eye contact. - So if Batman is not your style, perhaps giant cookie monster eyes on the back of your helmet will work for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20200" LastEditorUserId="20200" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T01:53:10.233" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T01:53:10.233" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31557" CreationDate="2015-06-27T00:04:26.690" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blinding road users will be the result of the following factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total light output&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mirror design (how is the light shaped)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How you aimed your light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most trail lights (and high output battery powered lights) use a mirror that casts the light in a symmetrical shape.  This means light is cast up, down, left and right.  Light cast above the horizon is what binds other road users.  Light above the horizon is however great for trail riding as it lets you see overhanging branches and other impediments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car running lights (i.e. not high beams) are designed with a horizontal cut-off, where light does not shine above the horizon (actually a low percentage does, this called spill light). If the car light is aimed correctly, the the horizontal cut-off falls below oncoming road users line of vision.  This is why you are typically not horribly blinded by oncoming cars, if they are a) using their running lights and b) have their lights aimed correctly.  High beams do not have a horizontal cut-off, which is the primary reason you get blinded so badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bike lights (those that are approved for German roads) will have a mirror that has this sharp horizontal cut-off.  They usually will usually be indicated by the some statement on &lt;a href=&quot;http://chicargobike.blogspot.ca/2013/04/stvzo-german-bicycle-requirements-make.html&quot;&gt;StVZO compliance&lt;/a&gt;. Most dynamo lights (e.g., B &amp;amp; M, Schmidt, etc) will have this mirror design. There are also a few battery powered lights (e.g., some B &amp;amp; M models), but they are few and far between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a light with a symmetrical beam, you can lessen the blinding effect by pointing the light down (as suggested in @Batman's answer), however due to the symmetrical nature of the beam you will still blind road users more than if you had a light with a horizontal cutoff and was aimed correctly as there will still be more spill light above the horizon. This effect is also confounded by how narrowly or wide the symmetrical beam is focused.  Wide flood lights will almost always blind, despite how much you aim them down, spot lights will blind less when pointed down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, total output does have some impact too, but it is also confounded with mirror design (e.g., high output with a horizontal cut-off may blind less than a low output symmetrical beam).  What really determines whether or not you blind other users is the total amount of light shining above the horizon at their eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case your 750 lumen lights are likely trail lights with a wide symmetrical beam.  If you run them at full output you will likely blind others unless you severely aim it downwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T00:04:26.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31557" CreationDate="2015-06-27T01:40:40.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Blinding oncoming traffic is certainly not in your best interest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Operating multiple running lights like you see on a semi truck would be better than purchasing a high power front or rear facing light. A brighter rear red light, with a touch of blue for colorblindness like stoplights have, is good to see you from behind. A more powerful front facing light will generally not increase reaction time of oncoming traffic. Drivers will have to make out your shape to influence reactions. While the oncoming driver is blinded, you are reducing the time they have to ensure your safety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain the point people are making here. Imagine a house at the end of a dark street. The home owners point the super bright lights towards oncoming traffic. Drivers are unlikely to make out the fact there is a house because of the high power lights and the property is suffering traffic damage. When the owner finally turns the lights around towards the home, blinding drivers was then stopped and the shape of home was made out at a much further distance allowing safe traffic to resume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So definitely have your headlight. Just keep it dim enough where it is comfortable for you and everyone else to look directly into and aim it properly. If it blinds you, you bet it's going to blind traffic. Increasing lumens of an already good light will not increase your safety. It might, however, make you a target if they are airplane runway bright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your friends are saying it is too bright, you should pay attention to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20200" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T01:40:40.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-27T04:12:00.630" Score="2" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using degreaser formula 88 and got some on my tire. I rinsed it off with some water and then the next day the tire had cracks and was faded. Will the tire get messed up ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20206" LastEditorUserId="20206" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T04:35:01.727" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T05:26:16.897" Title="Will degreaser formula 88 harm your tire?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31568" CreationDate="2015-06-27T05:26:16.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.formula88.com/material_safety_data_sheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FORMULA 88 Material Safety Data Sheet&lt;/a&gt;, this product is not dangerous, and is soluble in water. Washing it off was the best you could do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the solvent has dissolved some of the components of the tire rubber, leading to the fading and cracking you see. Only time will tell if the tire has been structurally compromised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most basic precaution would be to buy a new tire before this one fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could continue to ride this one, if there are no signs of bulging from the internal pressure in the tube. But the &lt;em&gt;conservative&lt;/em&gt; advice would be to replace it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would put it on the back wheel and continue to ride on it, but keep it under observation. If the damaged area is smaller than a tube patch, I'd glue a patch on the inside. But if it starts to bulge, then I'd replace the tire promptly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T05:26:16.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31557" CreationDate="2015-06-27T06:21:40.700" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to put this politely.... Disagree with you buddies all you like, but stop being a Selfish Cyclist who cares for no one but himself. Consider that your actions in running a light that bright on the road are the ones that make otherwise normal drivers cyclist hating psychopaths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The law will not be on your side if your light is bright enough to be blinding or distracting to drivers. Unless it has proper optics behind it, 750 lumen on the road is too bright, your friends are right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end game of too many people running these lights at full brightness are laws banning anything other than standards approved lights, These approved lights won't cost $10 or $20 or $50 dollars, they will cost $500 or $1000. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be safe, add more lights and reflectors to your Helmet, arms, body, wheels....and High vis (white) clothing.  Light from one point cannot be used to judge distance. The more points, the further apart, the more accurate and quickly the driver can determine the distance between you and him. Use flashing to attract attention but steady lights are needed to judge distance accurately and quickly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run 2x 1000 lumen lights off road (usually on mid setting), as soon as I hit the road, I turn them down to low (about 250 lumen). Its clear cars have no problem seeing me at those levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T06:21:40.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2015-06-27T07:46:33.570" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it can till it falls to pieces, no mechanical part will ever fail as an identical one at the same time ever. Prolong it? Don't use it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20208" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T07:46:33.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31557" CreationDate="2015-06-27T08:47:39.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your main worry is being seen by cars, then a superbright light isn't really the way forward. Besides being dazzling/blinding, a front light does very little for visibility from the sides and from behind, from which many (most?) collisions occur. A front light helps your visibility mainly when a car pulls out of or turns into a side road across your path while you approach. In my experience, in most of these cases the problem isn't that the driver didn't see me, but that they had difficulties judging my speed. Also, these are cases where I can mitigate some of the risk by reading the situation, observing the car (are they starting to move?) and being ready to brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A front light doesn't protect you against close overtakes, right hooks (UK: left hooks) and all the other frequent types of collisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about visibility, then it's better to wear hi-vis and add reflectors or possibly several smaller, cheap lights on different parts of the bike. For the driver, one superbright light is just one point, whereas hi-vis, reflectors and several smaller lights will outline the shape and size of your bicycle and help drivers to judge distance and speed. I've also seen the suggestion to have a small light on the top tube that points &lt;strong&gt;at yourself&lt;/strong&gt; to light up your own shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real use for a very bright light is a dark unlit path (without pedestrians) where you want to see where you're going. If you go along unlit paths a lot, I would invest in a light with a proper shaped beam, like the B&amp;amp;M models, that light up the path properly but don't dazzle other users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with everybody else that dazzling other users is a very bad idea, for many reasons (your own safety as well as etiquette).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastEditorUserId="18723" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T08:56:47.030" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T08:56:47.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18951" CreationDate="2015-06-27T15:18:37.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brouter.de/brouter-web/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brouter.de/brouter-web/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uses OpenStreetMap which is usually much better than Google Maps for Cycling. There are also 2 distinct bicycle profiles (fastbike and trekking) available and you can customize them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T15:18:37.767" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31372" CreationDate="2015-06-27T15:30:44.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say you could go with HIIT (high intensity intervals) on a treadmill.&#xA;For example a particular training I like and find helpful is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6-8 sets of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 minute very fast (18km/h for me)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 minute middle speed (12km/h in my case)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 minute slow (8-9 km/h)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and no stops in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a very good yet pretty hard training. Do not more than twice a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20210" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T15:30:44.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18951" CreationDate="2015-06-27T17:13:32.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, use strava map builder, and turn on the min elevation option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Agt4T.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only bad thing about the app builder is the app itself is sluggish over time (something wrong with my browser?), but it's no a big deal, since you can always save a route and refresh the page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, If I plan a long route, I've found strava heatmap is pretty useful , although popular routes don't always have the least elevation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://labs.strava.com/heatmap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://labs.strava.com/heatmap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T17:13:32.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31578" CreationDate="2015-06-27T19:25:37.327" Score="2" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I experienced a strange situation with the Tektro hydro disc brakes on my hybrid bike (would the model be helpful here?):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I carried it upstairs at a friend's place, and later moved it downstairs by holding it upright and slowly pushing it downwards. When I started riding home, I noticed that the rear brake almost didn't react to any pull, I was able to pull the lever with minimum resistance until it almost hit the bar. I felt almost(?) no braking action. A few minutes into the ride, the brake fully recovered to the normal amount of resistance/braking force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened here? What might cause such a behaviour? Could it be the bumpy ride down the stairs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never experienced fading on that brake so far, from the description it sounds very similar, though the brake was completely cool at the start of the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19594" LastEditorUserId="19594" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T22:44:54.807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T22:44:54.807" Title="What can cause disc brakes not to react after keeping/moving the bike upright, then recover?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31560" CreationDate="2015-06-27T19:41:50.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When spending more time on your bike, it's good to be able to vary your position. For that reason alone I would advice a drop bar or butterfly bar. It'll prevent all kind of small complaints about wrists, shoulders and back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting in better shape because of the extra daily exercise, you'll gradually feel more comfortable in a more sportive (aerodynamic) position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20212" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T19:41:50.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31576" CreationDate="2015-06-27T19:44:27.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always, it's hard to diagnose something with such a brief description and without looking at it, but the most likely cause is air in your brake system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake systems are designed to work with your bike standing still, where any small amount of air is pushed by gravity to the reservoir of the levers, keeping the system working well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you move your bike around and put it in strange positions, or when you store it vertically, this changes, gravity now pushes oil into the reservoir and air to the lever. This means when you start riding there is actual air somewhere where it shouldn't be and the brake don't feel right. If you keep your bike still for a few minutes this &quot;resets&quot;, and air goes back to the reservoir and the brakes star working ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the beginning of a ride, and mostly if you store your bike vertically, you should always test the brakes and give them a few minutes for oil to go &quot;down&quot; and air &quot;up&quot;, and press the levers a few times because this creates mechanical pressure on the lever so that it gets filled with oil and air is pushed into the reservoir. This is actual advised in some brakes manuals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't hurt to bleed your brakes and take as much air out as you can, and now that you are at it, check if the system is well isolated, i.e., check for small spills of oil in the calipers and levers and around the tubes. A problem in the system is not a likely cause as the brakes would always perform poorly instead of only after you moved your bike, but it doesn't hurt to take a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T19:44:27.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31560" CreationDate="2015-06-27T21:07:39.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd start off just riding your bike and noticing what you like (and don't like about your position). Mostly I'd worry about the bars being too low and not having enough options (get low to get out of the wind, sit up straight when your back or neck needs a break, and on and on...). The important thing is that you're comfortable – and as long as the bike comes reasonably close to fitting you you'll be able to make adjustments that will make it very comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But back to your question. There are three general bar options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flat bars like you've got and their variants (mustache bars, albatross bars, hershey bars, all sorts of fun to be had here). If you don't ride hard and like an upright posture, this would be where to start looking if you need more variety in your position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trekking or butterfly bars, these are basically flat bars with a larger range of positions. The forward position is a way to &quot;drop down&quot; a bit to avoid wind drag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dropped or road bars. These are my favorites. I like the range of positions and I'm used to them. But, really big but, they are close to useless if you can't get them up high enough. I run mine with the top of the bars about level with my seat, so riding on the tops of the bars my posture is pretty much the same as it would be with flat bars. However, I can also lean a bit forward, riding with my hands on the hoods of the brake levers, or if there's a headwind or I'm trying to look cool and fast I can drop down onto the bottom of the bars. But most of the time I ride on the top of the bars or on the hoods. So I think you don't need to be in any rush to buy new bars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing, it isn't the length of the ride that dictates when aerodynamics comes into play, it's more the speed (either your speed or the speed of a headwind). At 15-20 kph I don't feel like I'm working too hard against the wind, but up around 25 kph I definitely notice it (but not enough to make this old man want to spend much time of the drops), up past 30 kph the drops are looking very attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T21:12:57.877" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T21:12:57.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31560" CreationDate="2015-06-28T03:08:22.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drop bars are possible, but you need to measure the effective top tube of your frame and the &quot;reach&quot; of a new drop bar you want to purchase.  You didn't tell what hybrid bike you have but I assume the effective top tube on your bike is longer than ones on road bikes. Another consideration is that drop bars have additional reach forward (70-80mm). There's high a possibility that you'll need a shorter stem (&amp;lt; 100 mm), however, the handling might be funny (Although I've never tried this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I assume you want to be faster. have you considered to purchase slicker/narrower tires? This solution might be less hassle and way cheaper.&#xA;Being in aero position is nice but tire selection is much bigger factor to get faster, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T17:26:48.200" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T17:26:48.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31560" CreationDate="2015-06-28T07:34:17.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s not only a matter of handlebar type. You can already try to get into a more aerodynamic position with your straight handlebar. A shorter straight handlebar can be quite aerodynamic. On a road bike the drops are mostly used for descents, normaly one uses the “hoods” or the tops which aren’t all that “aggressive” or overly aerodynamic.&#xA;See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://lovelybike.blogspot.co.at/2012/06/drop-bar-hand-positions-introduction.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://lovelybike.blogspot.co.at/2012/06/drop-bar-hand-positions-introduction.html&lt;/a&gt; for all the positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The internal gear hub will be a problem for drop bars since there are no shifters available and you’d have to use one of the makeshift solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try adding time trial bar clips, but it can be hard to find a good position on a normal bicycle with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pictures of your bicycle and seating position would help. You shouldn’t underestimate the impact of floppy clothing either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T07:34:17.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31364" CreationDate="2015-06-28T08:56:55.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't buy that XT groupset&lt;/strong&gt; for that bike to solve those problems - it wont work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;XT is great, but it won't make your  bike more comfortable, and it wont make it better off-road. Worse, it wont work for that bike since it has V-brakes, and that groupset has disk brakes.  They are not compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it better off-road you need (in this order) better forks, disk brakes,  better components (lighter and stronger) and lighter frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with what others have said here: sell it, and upgrade the whole bike.  If you really can't do that, only go for SLX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T08:56:55.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-28T12:48:39.180" Score="6" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/31496/8273&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; I asserted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Statistics show that the probability of a collision rises rapidly after the speed difference between two road users exceeds 20 kph (12 mph). So choose paths without vehicle traffic, or roads with lower speed traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;User ebrohman requested a source for this. Since I remembered this &quot;fact&quot; from years back (er ... not only was it last millenium, it was from before the internet) I had to scrabble about to try to find an online source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found weak support for my thesis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... this US pdf &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.safety.fhwa.dot.gov/speedmgt/ref_mats/fhwasa09028/resources/Synthesis%20of%20Safety%20Researc...pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Synthesis of Safety Research Related to Speed and Speed Management&lt;/a&gt;; it doesn't explicitly support the 20 kph claim. This Dutch pdf &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.swov.nl/rapport/Factsheets/UK/FS_Speed.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The relation between speed and crashes&lt;/a&gt; says at a collision speed of 20 km/h nearly all pedestrians survive a crash with a passenger car; again not the same as my claim ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intuitively, my claim makes sense. The greater the speed difference between a vehicle and me, the more likely a random driver is to make an error and collide with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &lt;strong&gt;can we factually quantify how the risk varies with the speed difference?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T21:48:23.427" Title="How does the risk of a cyclist colliding with a vehicle vary with the speed difference?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="64602" CreationDate="2015-06-28T14:06:41.583" Score="1" ViewCount="7490" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has about 10-15 years old, but very rarely used (thus in quite good condition) bike with a large &quot;Quest&quot; label in place, where all other bikes has its brand name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By reading all the labels on that bike, I managed to read this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Quest Courage, 20 inch, 21 level Shimano, Quest Courier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not much, but I thought, that using Google etc. this will allow me to learn more about these bikes. However, when I tried to search the Internet, I found very little toward nothing. All I found was &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.abikecalledquest.com/?___store=en&amp;amp;___from_store=de&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;, but it seems to be about completely different product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some old forum there was a post claiming, that this is a marketing name for Dick's Sporting Goods, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&amp;amp;kw=quest&amp;amp;origkw=Quest&amp;amp;sr=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;searching this site for &lt;code&gt;Quest&lt;/code&gt; name brought no results around bikes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also read a few claims, that this is a very, very low-end and very low quality line of products. Some even said, that if you plan to ride more than 10 miles on road or take this bike off-road then you should definitely forget about &quot;Quest&quot; line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these claims seems to be contrary to what I have and to what many bicycle repair shops claimed about my wife's bike (saying, that it looks like a good quality and in good condition, taking its age).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone shed a light, what exactly is this brand? Is it still in production or when it was produced, if it is off market right know? Is there any website or support or anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13716" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T08:40:02.763" LastActivityDate="2021-02-23T22:12:45.963" Title="What exactly are Quest bikes?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10522" CreationDate="2015-06-28T14:45:00.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're commuting, and using a folding bike as many do, bear in mind that the joint on the horizontal tube is a singe point of failure. If that joint fails for any reason, you're suddenly going to be riding a pair of unicycles instead of a bicycle. You'll almost certainly hit the ground face-first (especially if you use clipless pedals) and only a full-face helmet will be of any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, it happened to me. I was unconscious for over 20 minutes, still have a memory gap of 35-40 minutes. I had a fractured skull, 3 loose teeth, have ongoing vision problems and face a probable facial reconstruction operation in a few months time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full-face helmets can be hot in the summer and you may get some ridicule from other cyclists. But I, for one, will never ride a folder without a full-face helmet again. Normal bikes are no problem, if a weld fails there is some structure left that will probably save you for a while at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20227" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T14:45:00.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10522" CreationDate="2015-06-28T18:37:41.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the types of injuries are different for motorbikes and bicycles, so that the requirements are different, and I can't see that body armour is useful for bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common motorbike incidents are when a rider comes off the bike at fairly high speed, either because they lost control or in a collision, and the clothing is designed to protect the rider as she/he slides on the road and possibly hits something. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not typically what happens in bicycle incidents, especially in cities. Most deadly collisions happen when an HGV turns with a bicycle in the blind spot and the cyclist ends up under the rear wheels. No amount of reasonable body armour can protect you when the weight of 20 ton truck crushes you. You can only try to stay away from large vehicles as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other bicycle incidents in cities are usually not high impact/high speed, and the main danger is hitting your head on the ground at 10-20km/h. Not only when you hit a pothole, but also in collisions. When you get right-hooked by a car, most damage is not from the collision as such but they may clip your front wheel and you lose control and hit the ground. When a car pulls out, you often slide over the bonnet and again the main injuries come when you hit the ground. For an impact of 10-20km/h, the head is the body part with a large risk of serious damage - that's why cycle helmets are designed for this kind of scenario. The rest of your body is much less at risk; you may get a broken wrist and a lot of very painful scratches but rarely anything life-threatening. Padded clothing can make the fall much less painful, of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I wouldn't put too much trust in body armour. Fine for motorbikes due to the different kinds of speeds, but for bicycle incidents in the city they are either unnecessary or can't protect you enough, depending on what you get hit by. I guess that's why even professionals only wear helmets, despite their more dangerous riding style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T18:37:41.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-28T19:35:21.730" Score="3" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into getting a full suspension mountain bike. Specialized touts their brain system and I'm wondering if is this some unique technology that they have or are at least more advanced at making than other manufacturers? Or is it that inertial systems like this commonplace and &quot;brain&quot; is a case of good marketing? I'm looking at bikes around 2000 USD (possibly a cheaper Trek), do I need to make extra sure it has a similar system in place or is it a given in this range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12864" LastEditorUserId="12864" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T20:36:29.160" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T20:36:29.160" Title="Is Specialized brain something unique or are its variations common?" Tags="&lt;full-suspension&gt;&lt;specialized-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31591" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-28T20:07:27.677" Score="8" ViewCount="1028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to fix the problem with my bicycle where the left crank keeps unscrewing itself. The thread on which a serrated lock nut should keep the pedal in place is conventional (clockwise to tighten). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking closely at both sides. There is some sort of thread on the inside of the crank cavity itself and it's not used by anything since this cycle has been bought. May anyone know what this may be for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Pzm0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MHiPY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20230" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T21:27:44.983" Title="What is the second thread on the crank for?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31591" CreationDate="2015-06-28T20:31:06.713" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lock nut is used to wedge to crank on the bottom bracket spindle.&#xA;If you open it, you should still not be able to get the crank off, at least not easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For square tapered bottom brackets, usually you have to use a tool called a &quot;crank puller&quot;, which is hold in place with the outer thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cotterless.html&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; over at Sheldon Browns for details and very interesting pictures showing whats going on inside the cranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T20:31:06.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10522" CreationDate="2015-06-28T22:53:59.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are organizations that offer riding in traffic classes, they even plan with you your best commute route, I would look into that as a way to gain confidence. Keep in mind that if you are afraid or you doubt at some intersection or maneouvre  it can be dangerous if someone decides they don't want to wait for you to make your move. Confidence and paying attention to your environment is best for safety, which includes, as mentioned above, claiming all the lane for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practice and get proper confidence on your skills, get a good helmet,(I wouldn't go for the full closed hwlmet because in the tradeoff between visibility and increased face security I think it is better to have more visibility), see that your bike is in excellent riding condition, gears brakes, etc, make yourself seen without blinding other road users, that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then, rememeber you can't be 100% safe on the bike, but just walking on the city is also dangerous, we have to go outside the womb&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T22:53:59.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T00:30:08.010" Score="0" ViewCount="819" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a believer in having just one bike that i can use for anything I do, mostly club rides and light touring. I currently have a Giant Defy 1 with 28c tires, but am intrigued by the new gravel grinder bikes such as the GT Grade, which have road bike components but accept broad tires. I'd like to make a few changes to a GT Grade, and would appreciate any guidance on a few questions I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to replace the road bike transmission (Shimano 105) with a mountain bike transmission Shimano XT), both 11 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it possible to make the change? Will an XT crankshaft fit on a road bike?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can i use the 11 speed 105 shifters to shift the XT front and rear derailleurs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'd also like to replace the wheels (Stan's No Tubes Grail Disc) with XT wheels, which i expect would be more robust when touring. The XT wheels have an internal width of 24 mm. I believe they will fit the bike, but will they work with 32c tyres (Conti Gatorskins or Schwalbe Marathon Supremes)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20234" LastEditorUserId="5271" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T07:34:48.750" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:41:44.637" Title="Expanding the range of capabilities of a gravel bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;&lt;gravel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-29T00:36:03.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eyes - look straight at the driver and hold the gaze until they see you.   Human brains are wired to detect and pick out eyes/eyeballs in the visual field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it - as a cyclist you can see clearly when the driver/other cyclist notices you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if they still don't see you, it gives a split second more warning to react appropriately before they pull out.... enough time for a flash glance behind, or to prepare yourself for impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T00:36:03.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31597" CreationDate="2015-06-29T00:39:26.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any bike can go anywhere.   I've taken a road bike down an off-road course, and an electric assist road bike up a steep gravel path (not fun)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My weekend ride these days is a non-suspension steel mountain bike with knobbly tyres but a smooth strip on the face of the tread for road comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the parts work together and fit your body and style of riding, then why not?  Cost would be the main preventative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T00:39:26.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31597" CreationDate="2015-06-29T00:46:49.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, gravel bikes seem mostly like cross bikes with a bit more money they can take from your wallet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Road and mountain shifters and derailleurs don't play nice with each other at 11 speed, so this question is moot. If you want to check a particular crankset on the bike, look at the width and the type of BB setup. I don't see why you'd want to switch to a mountain drivetrain in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If a wheel is 700c, you can technically mount any tire on it thats 700c (though you'll have problems if too narrow or too wide). If you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;width compatibility chart&lt;/a&gt; from Sheldon Brown, you'd want a rim with a smaller width. Since you're upgrading, may as well buy the right width. By running this, you increase the risk of pinch flats/rim damage over a more well matched width. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T00:46:49.257" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31436" CreationDate="2015-06-29T07:05:55.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your derailer(s), or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Derailleur_gears&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;derailleurs&lt;/a&gt; if you prefer, are out of adjustment. Derailers work by guiding the chain from side-to-side to shift gears. They have limit screws that are supposed to stop the movement before the chain comes off, but if the limit screws are misadjusted it will be possible to shift beyond the limits of the chainrings in the front and/or the cogs in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you've said it sounds like you can get things back on track (so to speak) by shifting both derailers towards the middle of their range, then put the chain back on – any cog and ring that seem close – and pedal (have somebody hold the rear wheel up when you do this). The chain should settle onto the proper gear. You may hear some noise from the chain as it runs against on or both of the derailers (and may bounce around between gears if you get it just wrong). You should be able to make the front and maybe the rear quite down by making small adjustments. In any case, as long as you are towards the middle, the chain should stay on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find the chain coming off as you shift towards the extremes you'll need to adjust the derailers. Start with the limit screws. Parks has a articles on adjusting the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;front&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rear&lt;/a&gt; as does &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;. One thing to keep in mind is that rear detailers are also sensitive to the alignment of its hanger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T07:05:55.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31605" CreationDate="2015-06-29T09:14:13.777" Score="12" ViewCount="88872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 26 and haven't ridden a bike since I was 15.&#xA;I decided to start again and purchased a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nakamura.fr/VTC/CROSS-LAND/p/2252951AIA&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;nakamura crossland&lt;/a&gt;, last Saturday, to get back into action.&#xA;Last Sunday, I did 17km in 50 minutes on a mostly flat road. I didn't want to start too hard, afraid to hurt my legs. In the end the only thing that hurt was my butt, I probably need a better saddle.&#xA;I was wondering what distance and speed I should aim for as a beginner, in order to improve my stamina.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I decided to purchase a bike to lose weight and enjoy the countryside. Maybe it's relevant for choosing the right distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20188" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T14:59:51.967" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T20:50:04.750" Title="Speed and distance for a beginner" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T12:00:48.420" Score="3" ViewCount="18475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an SR Suntour XCM HLO 27.5&quot; 100mm travel that comes with my bike. It has preload adjuster on the left and lock on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I wonder is how to properly adjust the fork softness/stiffness as I encountered some bumps with stiff feelings on the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I lock it and turn the preload adjuster, I can turn it more than if I let the fork open. What causes this and should I lock it before adjusting the preload?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20239" LastActivityDate="2020-02-20T03:10:42.503" Title="Preload Adjuster Use on SR Suntour XCM" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31404" CreationDate="2015-06-29T12:07:13.293" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you point out that it's on the spoke side of the tube, my guess would be that the rim tape is off. (Or worn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem, where I got a puncture roughly every week, and it turned out that the rim tape was moving. It looked OK when I opened everything up, but must have shifted when I put it together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, don't do what I did, which was to cover the rim tape with duct tape. While it did stop the streak of punctures, it also meant that the next time I had to take it apart there was gooey glue stuff everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the rim tape. - Even if it looks OK it might shift when you pump the innertube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastEditorUserId="11285" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T15:03:42.150" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T15:03:42.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31602" CreationDate="2015-06-29T12:34:58.270" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wait a little before you buy a new saddle. It takes some time for both your butt and the saddle to adjust to each other. Wider and softer saddles are only more comfortable for shorter rides or very upright riding positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;17 km and 50 minutes are a very good point to start. Depending on your time constraints and where you live you can either do longer trips (mostly training for your but), or go farther / steeper in the same time (what I prefer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To build some basic stamina I believe everything between 30 and 60 minutes of real continuous effort (sweating, but not vomiting …) to be ideal. Maybe thats just because this is around the time it takes me to reach the different summits around here by road- or mountain-bike (the uphill part that is, add another 30 minutes to get to the starting point). Even only doing that once or twice a week should be enough to really make you feel progress kicking in rather fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T12:34:58.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31602" CreationDate="2015-06-29T15:09:05.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heart rate is a better indicator to see if you're working too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a very good book call &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0873224604&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fitness Cycling&lt;/a&gt; I used that gives you recommended training schemes from beginner to amateur racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I read it and followed it what surprised me most was that most of the cycling should be done for long distances but not doing much work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does rely on two things though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heart Rate Monitor. If you don't have one at the very least there is a threshold of when you are out of breath i.e. for most of the cycle ride you should be able to continuously talk to someone unless you're doing a specific exercise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cadence - how quickly your pedals are spinning in RPM. I like the (wired) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cateye.com/en/products/detail/CC-RD200/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cateye Strada&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1020" LastEditorUserId="1020" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T00:11:29.490" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:11:29.490" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31590" CreationDate="2015-06-29T16:45:36.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inertial systems like the brain have been around for several decades, however, Specialized is probably to the first company to do them light (ish), mass produced and marketed.  The real question is not &quot;how good is it?&quot; (is does work), but &quot;do you want/need it as a rider?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I worked at a Specialized shop for sometime, and opinions on the brain seem to vary.  I know several riders that swear by them as one of the most awesome things ever, but also people didn't feel like it was needed or just couldn't tell the difference.  Personally, I always felt like they added a bit of efficiency, but since I rarely rode trails that benefited from it, and that I didn't MTB race, it wasn't really necessary for me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brains &quot;automagikness&quot; isn't necessarily standard in the price range, however easily adjustable suspension is.  In that range you'll find most suspension has some sort of quick adjustment knob or switch to vary the performance of the shock.  Such systems will likely weigh less, but require rider input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be all about your riding style.  If the trails you frequent don't require suspension adjustment &quot;on the fly&quot;, the brain will likely just be extra weight.  If they do, but you don't want to deal with flipping a knob or switch, and you like the way it feels, it may be for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T17:45:31.237" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T17:45:31.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31602" CreationDate="2015-06-29T19:48:58.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;17km/10miles under 1 hour is not so bad for beginner. The best way to improve your stamina is to have constant speed in a long run. You don't have to push yourself too hard and going flatland is good but picking a distance with some kind of small uphill and downhill is better for you. It will build your muscle dynamically. Try to go a little faster and shorten the ride each time you ride. If you are getting really serious, get a heart rate monitor or speed monitor (Cadence) like Garmin 500 or Cateye. I personally use Strava iPhone app to track my distance and speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your bike, the first few times riding your brand new bike will hurt your butt and your back. That is normal and you will get used to it. Make sure your bike is the &lt;em&gt;correct&lt;/em&gt; size for your body frame and get fitted at your local bike shop to maximize your performance. Repump your tires and maybe oil your chain every time before you ride your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't upgrade anything on your new bike until you have no more room to improve your performance. The first things I would upgrade are the tires, tubes and wheels. Lighter wheels really makes a differences. Then after that probably lighter components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, try to get clipless pedals because that really help your speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20242" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T03:27:20.907" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T03:27:20.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31602" CreationDate="2015-06-29T20:30:29.330" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few simple tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Whether it's cycling, running or any other physical activity the more gradually you build up your mileage, the better off you'll be in the long run. A good rule of thumb is don't increase your time or mileage by more than 10% a week. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carrying on a conversation with someone should be difficult but not impossible. If you can't carry on a conversation you're probably pushing too hard. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consistency trumps volume. 3-4 short rides a week will do more for your overall fitness than 1-2 longer riders each week. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;We can not get grace from gadgets. It's easy to get sucked into buying ever newer, shinier and lighter parts. However, if you think these things make a big difference you're fooling yourself. Keep in mind when you're pedaling up a hill you're not just pedaling a 14 or 20 or 25 pound bike. You're also carrying your weight and the weight of anything you have with you (such as water bottles). When you look at a combined bike and rider weight of 170 pounds or more suddenly saving 30 or 50 grams is a minuscule difference. I've wrenched for several professional racers and trust me, most of them couldn't care less about their bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do invest in cycling shoes and clothes if you're going to do longer rides. Cycling shorts - whether the baggy style or the lycra type - are designed to reduce friction. Cycling shoes with clipless pedals are more efficient and also safer (once you get used them - which takes some practice). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget to drink. It's easier to get dehydrated while riding than in most other activities. You're moving faster so the sweat evaporates faster and that fools you into thinking you're not sweating that much. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy riding. I've seen people who bail on a ride because they couldn't get Strava to work. That's insane. Ride because you want. You're not a pro, your paycheck doesn't depend on how fast and how often you ride. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastEditorUserId="1020" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T12:56:48.153" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T12:56:48.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30473" CreationDate="2015-06-29T21:05:59.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the exact model (probably is Trainer as shown on the top tube decal) but it was likely built sometime right around 1984, most likely 1984-1986 judging by the parts. The brand was known as Motobecane for most of their history. They went bankrupt in 1981 and were bought by the Japanese (Yamaha or Suzuki, I forget which) who relaunched the brand in 1984 as MBK (like many other French bike companies, they made more than just bikes - see also Peugeot). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other giveaway is the Sachs-Huret rear derailleur. Sachs and Huret were separate companies - one German, one French - prior to 1980. In 1987 they introduced an indexing system to keep up with SIS which had come out the year prior from Shimano and was a massive hit. In the late 90s the combined company was bought by the American SRAM company. The shift levers look to be friction so that dates them to after the Sachs/Huret merger but before the advent of indexed shifting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an entry level bike. The big giveaway is the tubing decal which says &quot;Hi Tensile&quot;. Hi Tensile (or Hi-Ten) is the lowest grade of tubing used in bikes. Pretty much the same stuff used in Huffy and other department store bikes. That said, not all Hi-Ten is created equal and there are actually some Hi-Ten frames that ride quite nicely even if it's far from being the lightest tubing. Nicer level Motobecanes of the era would have been made using Reynolds 531 or various grades of Vitus steel tubing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've probably discovered by now the bottom bracket is a regular taper with English threads. Most French bike companies stopped using French threads in the late 70s/early 80s much to the relief of bike shop mechanics everywhere!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T21:05:59.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29685" CreationDate="2015-06-29T21:30:10.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to tell anything from the photo but it's definitely a low level frame, most likely from the late 1970s. The giveaways are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thickness of the lugs. Good quality lugs (such as Nervex or Henry James) are much thinner. A top level builder will thin the lugs even further. Those are cheap stamped lugs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The square ends of the bottom bracket lugs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crimped seat/chain stays rather than domed ends at the dropouts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No derailleur hanger on the drive side dropout - a very common sight on inexpensive European bikes from the 1970s which gave the factories more flexibility in production (dropouts really didn't become standardized until after the advent of SIS in 1984 - prior to that you sometimes needed a different hanger/dropout for a Huret Jubilee derailleur than a Campy NR derailleur, for example)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chainstay has double cable loops for the rear derailleur. Bikes built after the early to mid 80s only had one.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has brake cable housing loop braze-ons. These didn't really become standard - especially on lower bikes - until the mid to late 1970s. Prior to that builders were afraid that heating the thinner sections of a tube would weaken them which is why when you look at top of the line racing bikes in the 1960s and even early 70s they still had clamp-on brake cable guides, water bottles, etc. Even Eddy Merckx's Tour winning bike had clamp-on water bottles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastEditorUserId="7617" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T18:22:36.320" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T18:22:36.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31613" CreationDate="2015-06-29T21:33:40.830" Score="10" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working on my cadence for several months now, and I feel like I've gotten to the point where I'm more comfortable using high cadence instead of standing up when I want to accelerate hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At stoplights if I'm really gonna accelerate hard, I'll start in first gear and shift up when I get to 140-150 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stay seated the whole time. I feel like I'm faster this way than I am standing up, but I'm not sure. Until recently, I've always assumed that standing up in a higher gear was the best way to put on speed fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone provide data or logic that points one way or the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2016-09-03T23:28:15.323" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T06:11:21.327" Title="Standing vs. high rpm for acceleration" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31612" CreationDate="2015-06-29T22:39:44.567" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to be sure is to measure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use an app such as Strava during the ride, then look at it's analysis later. It will show you how fast you were going at each point, and also gives an approximation of your power output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't know what algorithm or assumptions it uses to calculate the power, but since it uses just one algorithm you can compare results for seated and standing sprints. Strava doesn't know what the wind speed is, nor does it know what your frontal area is (which changes when you stand), so the power values are not correct in an absolute sense. The speed measurements are more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect that you'll be producing most power at the higher end of your cadence range, 120-140 rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience a standing sprint is good for a short burst, rather than the extended acceleration you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the higher cadence will be better for your knees over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T03:21:15.903" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T03:21:15.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T01:09:11.177" Score="3" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a cheap bike to ride around the driveway/neighborhood with my kids.  It feels like the pedals are right underneath my butt rather than just in front.  Makes for not so comfortable position.  Is there a reason for this?  Anything that can be done about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20244" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T01:35:09.413" Title="Pedals feel like they are too far back" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31614" CreationDate="2015-06-30T01:35:09.413" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, there are a ton of adjustments you can make, but sometimes a bike just won't fit someone. You may want to look up &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm&quot;&gt;bike fit&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, though this is something you probably should have done before you bought the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the saddle backwards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the saddle up/down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the angle of the saddle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the stem height&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the stem (to get a different length/angle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Re-angle the handlebars &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start with moving around the saddle, since doing anything other than re-angling the bars may not be an option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saddle height is adjusted by a bolt or quick release lever where the seatpost goes into the frame. The rest of the adjustments are normally controlled by an allen key on the bottom of the saddle, where it is clamped into the seatpost. You can see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycA1tpSWeqA&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt; for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T01:35:09.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31616" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T04:29:04.637" Score="5" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought a used road bike from WI recently. and just a couple days ago i got a flat. I took out the tube wanting to patch but saw that it was all patched up. So i decided to just buy a new on. the original tube was a &quot;specialized 700x20/28c&quot; but i bought a new tube according to the tire that stated &quot;700x25c&quot; and i installed it. It fit a bit big so I just shrugged it off and kept it. Within a couple of miles it popped tearing a big gash in the tube. I do tend to over inflate my tubes due to the roads near me. So my question is what tube should I get, what it states on the tire like &quot;700x25c&quot; etc. or what my original tube had?&#xA;All help is much appreciated thank you in advance :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20245" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T06:15:07.897" Title="inner tube length size question" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31616" CreationDate="2015-06-30T04:47:14.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your tyre says 700x28c, that means your wheel has 700c of diameter and your tyre is size 28. You should buy a tube that perfectly fits this, and this is very easy as because tubes have, in the box, the diameter of the wheel they were made for, in your case 700c, and the range of the tires they are made for. So if the tube says 24-26 that is ok for you, if it says 24-28 that is also ok for you, etc. According to your description you bought the correct tube, so what the hell is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things might have made your flat, in particular there are three typical suspects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) Maybe your tyre has a glass or a small nail in it, and you didn't check. You removed the old tube and get the new one and the this fragment remained on the tyre, so it flat after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Your rimstrip is weak and does not hold the pressure, forces the tube against the holes on the rim and they end up puncturing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution for a) and b) is pretty simple. When you have a flat, remove the tube very careful so that you know it's original position on the tyre. Check if the position of the flat in the tyre and see if there anything stuck in it. If the hole on the tube is on the inside, then it's time to change your rimstrip to something more sturdier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) You did a bad job installing the tube. Make sure the tube sits perfectly inside the tyre, and that no parts remain stuck between the tyre and the rim before inflating. To do this it might help to inflate the tube a little but before installing, and check everything after installation but before inflating. Check this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N87fIxVZ_jE&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; for detailed instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, I personally don't like fixing tubes as the patch does not expand as well the the rubber of the tube when you inflate and you create a week point there prone to give some problem in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T04:47:14.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2015-06-30T05:39:07.693" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is a question I've given a great deal of thought and experimentation to, after an accidental discovery some years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short: cycle where the kerb-side wheel of a car or truck would be, and magically, Jedi-mind-trickily, almost ALL drivers give you plenty of room when passing, wait patiently to pass, and are not in the slightest bit annoyed.  I know -it's like suddenly a population of saints take over all the vehicles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it seems unbelievable, but please try it yourself. If you go closer to the kerb, vehicles will &quot;buzz&quot; you close (like you're not there at all), if you go closer to the center-line you'll get cursing and beeping (as you're in the way), but if you track where the kerb-side wheel of a travelling vehicle &quot;naturally goes&quot; just see what happens. I call it the Goldilocks zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love for some University to formally test this - as I say, I did it by mistake one day (day-dreaming in a narrow lane doh!) and have experimented over many years in many different environments (city, suburb, open country) and it darn near ALWAYS works. Go figure!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20248" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T05:39:07.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T07:32:35.040" Score="1" ViewCount="1228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of changing my original Tektro Polygon rotors to Shimano RT66 rotors. Both use 6 bolts and 160mm size. Is this will be fine with my Tektro Auriga brakes? And will changing the rotors cause significant difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20239" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T11:20:57.177" Title="Shimano RT66 Rotors on Tektro Auriga" Tags="&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30764" CreationDate="2015-06-30T11:06:13.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Sagan_win_SRM_P4021771/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a discussion of Peter Sagan's SRM data from an early stage in the 2012 Tour De France&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2009/07/just-how-good-are-these-guys/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an article which discusses normal power output for various effort durations&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What matters for sprinting isn't their FTP, rather it's their power output over 5 seconds, 1 minute, 2 minutes... For the last 5 seconds a top sprinter will be pushing 22-25 W/kg, whereas 6.0 - 6.5W/kg is realistic for HC climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to his weight advantage, Cavendish is also one of the most aerodynamic road sprinters. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sportsscientists.com/2014/07/profile-sprint-take-win-sprint-stage/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; suggests a 10% decrease in CdA can result in a 3 metre advantage in a 14 second sprint. That's a humiliating margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T11:06:13.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30638" CreationDate="2015-06-30T11:10:09.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect &quot;H/E&quot; means &quot;Hook-edged&quot;. This would apply to almost every MTB rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two bikes with slicks on MTB rims. I currently use Schwalbe Kojak 26 x 1.35&quot; on one, and Schwalbe Marathon Racer 26 x 1.5&quot; on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T11:10:09.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31619" CreationDate="2015-06-30T11:20:57.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll just have to make sure that the rotors match the type of brake pads you use. Shimano mark their rotors for 'resin pads only' and the like! –&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T11:20:57.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T14:03:38.213" Score="0" ViewCount="3292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Race Face Evolve DH crankset which takes 104 BCD chainrings. However, I pulled a 104 BCD chainring off a Shimano Acera Crankset and the rings don't interface properly with the Race Face cranks. The chainring bolts line up, but the shape of the ring below the crank bolts has a different curvature and doesn't mate with the crank spider. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to just buy cheap/durable steel chainrings for my mountain bike and didn't expect this incompatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What chainrings are generally compatible with this crankset? Are sram/truvative rings generally compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T21:15:04.270" Title="Race Face Crank/Chainring Compatibility" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31616" CreationDate="2015-06-30T14:24:58.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mention &quot;It fit a bit big so I just shrugged it off and kept it&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tube is the correct size for the tire, it should fit without needing to fold, shrug nor stretch. When you install the tube, it is advised to inflate it just enough for it to take shape, and no more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put too much air in a tube that is outside a tire, there is nothing holding it, preventing it from growing. (The tube is just a doughnut shaped rubber or butyl or latex balloon). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happens the overall diameter of the tube gets bigger than the tire's diameter and this leads to a troubled installation. The correct thing to do is to desinflate the tube until it's diameter fits the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tube installed with folds or creases inside the tire won't be subjected to even pressure/tension along the material, so creating stress points that make it prone to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T14:24:58.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31625" CreationDate="2015-06-30T16:22:38.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem with a pair of Race Face Cadence cranks (road version).  I think Race Face does this to force you into buying their chain rings.  I am sure there is some &quot;engineering&quot; argument why their rings are more compatible with their cranks, but frankly their rings are only so-so (my opinion).  So far every brand I have tried has this conflict as they use a square profile on the ring/crank interface, not a square with rounded corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get around this simply Dremel or file off the offending material on the chain ring so it fits flush on the cranks.  Then pedal off (or glide downhill in you case) into the sunset with a smile on your face.  I have done this with a some FSA rings and have put 5000 km into them with no ill effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take my anecdotal experience for what it is worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T16:22:38.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2449" CreationDate="2015-06-30T16:29:10.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;An easy answer directly from Schwalbe website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.com/en/profil.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.schwalbe.com/en/profil.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Many MTB tires are marked with a “FRONT” and a “REAR” arrow. The “FRONT” arrow indicates the recommended rolling direction for the front wheel and respectively the “REAR” arrow is the direction for the rear wheel.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20253" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T16:29:10.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T18:09:15.643" Score="2" ViewCount="3774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to change my bike setup. I have a 8 speed freewheel and a 3 chainrings crankset and I would like to add a single speed crankset in front (around 50 teeth) because I am not using my front derailleur anymore. Is it a good match? If so, what kind of chain do I need? Do I need a new bottom bracket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20254" LastEditorUserId="19862" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T10:30:51.060" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T10:30:51.060" Title="8 speed free wheel with single speed crankset" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31629" CreationDate="2015-06-30T18:35:57.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably don't need to purchase a new crankset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can remove the the rings you don't need and simply add a new ring. You'll need to know the distance of the bolt holes of your current chainrings/crank. This is known as the BCD (bolt circle diameter) and you can usually find it stamped on the chainring. Common sizes include 130mm, 110mm, 94mm, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you'd want a chainring designed for single speed use. Rings designed for multi chainring drivetrains have pins, ramps and cut away teeth to help the chain smoothly move from one ring to another. Since the chain isn't moving, you don't need them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need single speed chainring bolts which are shorter than double ring bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may or may not need a new bottom bracket. In a perfect world you want the chain to be in a straight line to the middle cog in back. If you mount your single ring in the middle position of a triple ring crankset you'll probably be good to go. If you decide to go with a dedicated single ring crankset you'll likely need a new BB with a shorter spindle length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain needs are more a function of the rear cogs/derailleur than the front. Any chain made for a 7,8 or 9 speed drivetrain will work fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T18:35:57.343" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30722" CreationDate="2015-06-30T21:04:48.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Alex CXD6 wheelset that is standard on that bike includes clincher rims, and are they are also tubeless ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20256" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T15:07:43.270" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T15:07:43.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31625" CreationDate="2015-06-30T21:15:04.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raceface.com/comp/pdf/RF_Chainring_CompatChart_Apr10.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; you have a compatibility chart for Race Face cranksets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain rings are not as standardized as cassettes and hubs for example, but you usually have a fair choice of inter-compatible components across different brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T21:15:04.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30722" CreationDate="2015-06-30T23:36:24.377" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;100% Clincher. Nobody makes a production bike with tubulars - way too much of a liability issue. An improperly glued tire is extremely dangerous. Also gluing tubulars on is a very time consuming process which isn't possible in a mass manufacturing environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastEditorUserId="20169" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T16:18:05.197" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T16:18:05.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31638" CreationDate="2015-07-01T00:08:18.070" Score="3" ViewCount="1117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need help with identify what materials is this frame&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/62wvd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jUUER.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lmoj9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to know if this is indeed aluminium? (weight 1.2 kg for 15 inch frame hybrid, is not ferromagnetic). &#xA;If it is, why would it have a few green/white rust, especially at the weldings/joints?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the material that has yellow/bronze color outside the frame? Is it a primer? Or anodized? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really appreciate your help and knowledge on this matter. I would really want to paint it, but I have no idea which primer I need for this frame (aluminium or anodized...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer:From other question/answer (I did have a look) I guess it is aluminium, but then the rust and the color does not match Aluminium characteristics and therefore, I would like to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T12:56:28.623" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T12:56:28.623" Title="Bicycle Frame: anodized Aluminium?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31629" CreationDate="2015-07-01T01:52:54.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably more complicated than you think it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends on your bike. A lot of bikes which are spec'd with say 42t front chainrings for the big ring can't clear a 50t big ring in the front without the chain interfering with something. You'll also have to worry about chain line and possibly installing something to prevent the chain dropping. But, assuming its possible for your bike, if you have a cheap crankset, you'll likely need to buy a new one which is compatible with your BB, or possibly new rings depending on what crankset you're running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel your gearing isn't high enough, you're usually better off tweaking the cassette/freewheel (i.e. the gears in the back), or more likely increasing your cadence (with a 42 x 11 at an 80 rpm cadence, which is reasonable, you should be doing around 25 mph. 42 x 14 at the same cadence would be ~20 mph). It is almost surely the case that your cadence is too low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are indeed hitting a good cadence, you probably should replace the whole bike so you get something which puts you in a more aerodynamic position and has better gearing (something like a road race bike). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T01:52:54.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15321" CreationDate="2015-07-01T02:02:32.610" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, mtb hubs can be just as loud as road hubs. So it really has nothing to do with riding in a group and being audible for the sake of other riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the reason some are loud. Efficiency has a lot to do with it but It has more to do with the grade of punishment components can withstand and still perform well. I say that because if you have small components with less force being applied to them (i.e. Small pawl size and low spring tension holding them in position), the wheel will coast more silently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some higher end components, parts are slightly oversized and/or under more torque or tension. This is to keep the performance of the components tight under stress. Imagine going face first down hill on your favorite double black diamond run trying to use campy components built for road. you will break more than just your campy group. The reason some hubs are loud is because the components are built to perform better than just &quot;okay&quot; and to last. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20257" LastEditorUserId="4383" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T10:31:55.123" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T10:31:55.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31635" CreationDate="2015-07-01T07:27:54.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At that weight it is 99% Aluminum. This is also backed up by the sizing of the tubes, as Aluminum has a much lower density. At the sizing and thickness of the tubing for it to be Ti/Steel it would be a considerable amount heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The uniformity and consistency of the yellow/bronze would lead me to think that this is most likely anodized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13890" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T07:27:54.860" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31639" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-01T11:23:41.897" Score="1" ViewCount="43880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't used my bike for almost a year and I need to start riding it again, but it appears I have a flat tire. I don't think there's something wrong with the tube cause I haven't used it for a pretty long time. It just won't inflate. The tire has a  Schrader Valve. I use a pretty old pump so maybe that's the case? I'm not really sure.. So is there any way I could inflate it again without getting a new tube or tire? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20260" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T02:41:47.613" Title="Can you inflate a completely flat tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31639" CreationDate="2015-07-01T11:38:15.420" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can easily inflate a completely flat tire (provided the tube is still good). Usually, when a tire is completely flat, you have to press the back of the tire so that the valve doesn't recess into the tire so your pump can be attached properly to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a presta valve, you can use your mouth for this (well, on a clean tube, since the valve stem isn't spring loaded), but with a schrader valve you have to use a pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it still won't inflate, check the tire and tube for damage and replace accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T11:38:15.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-01T13:56:31.593" Score="0" ViewCount="4926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to upgrade my shifters to Alivio M4000. My old shifters are Altus M370. My question is will this make a significant differrence on my shifting? I'm running Altus M310 FD with Alivio M4000 shadow RD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20239" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T14:09:11.447" Title="Shimano Alivio M4000 vs Altus M370 shifters" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31602" CreationDate="2015-07-01T13:57:16.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mentioned wanting to loose weight, that's one of my projects too. There is some interesting research out there suggesting that the problem of loosing weight is more than just &quot;making output exceed input.&quot; You might take a look at Grant Peterson's book &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bo17.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Just Ride&lt;/a&gt;, it is a collection of short essays on practical biking and includes a good section on health and fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a somewhat contrarian view on gear and upgrades – especially when you're riding for fitness. Much of the &quot;gear head&quot; movement in bicycling is around efficiency. But efficiency isn't really your friend when you're out to get exercise. Make changes to your bike to make it safe, to make it comfortable, and to make the riding enjoyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T14:02:40.167" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T14:02:40.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31641" CreationDate="2015-07-01T14:09:11.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you upgrade shifters (provided you have the right compatibility), you're paying for (or trading off between):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower weight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More strength/durability &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reliability &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the sense that Alivio &gt; Altus, you should be getting some of these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if your shifters and what not are in good condition (i.e. good cable runs, shifters in good condition, derailleur in good condition), I don't think you'll notice (much). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T14:09:11.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28585" CreationDate="2015-07-01T16:53:19.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Single ring up front can be a very good option but it really depends on the course. Do keep in mind that this is cyclocross RACING. I've seen (and passed!) many riders who seem hell bent on riding every inch of the course. That's not how things work in cross. Sometimes you're much faster getting off the bike and running. That said, keeping two rings up front makes the bike a LOT more versatile for everything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another poster (Fred) covered most of what you should be looking at but here's a few other things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the teeth on the chainring. Feel to see if any are hooked. The tips of the teeth should be smooth or they can catch the chain and keep it from cleanly releasing the chain. If you find any burrs carefully file them so they're smooth. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the rings are mounted correctly. Rings these days are designed to operated together and for this to happen the ramps need to be properly aligned. There will be an alignment mark to indicate how the rings should align. Pretty rare for this to happen but every great now and then you see it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your cables are clean. Cross destroys cables! Shift your bike into the big ring. Now without pedaling shift down into your small ring. The chain will stay on the big ring but the cable will no longer be under tension. This will allow you to pop the housing out of the stops. Slide the housing to one end and wipe down the cable. Repeat in the other direction. Drizzle a little lube on the cable and wipe off the excess. You should do this for all of your cables and do it after every race or wet/muddy ride. If you race a full season expect to replace your cables at least once a season. I used to wrench for a cyclocross team and we'd replace cables at least twice a season here in the wet Pacific Northwest. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check the angle of the front derailleur in addition to its height. Looking down onto the derailleur the outer plate of the cage should be parallel to the chainrings. Sometimes derailleurs get knocked a little out of alignment and it's amazing how big a difference being just a little off can make! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider a larger inner chainring. The smaller the difference in teeth between the rings the better things will shift and the less likely you are to drop a chain (this is why at Paris-Roubaix teams will often switch to a 44 or 46 tooth inner ring since the race is flat as a board). This really depends on your local conditions and fitness. If your conditions are generally pretty dry than a 34 ring is a bit on the low side. If you need a 34x27 (or lower) gear there's a good chance you'd be better off by running. OTOH if it's muddy you'll want to keep that 34. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T16:53:19.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30967" CreationDate="2015-07-01T16:55:49.453" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can though I can say that in 40+ years or riding and many years of working in shops I've never once had to do this. Rim tapes come in various widths from various makers so you should be able to find one that will fit. Also a little too wide is far preferable to a tape that is a little too narrow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T16:55:49.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23249" CreationDate="2015-07-01T16:56:42.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One huge advantage of dual air springs that isn't often mentioned, is that you can set sag independent of positive spring rate (air pressure).  If you need to add a bunch of (+) pressure to resist bottoming, you can pump up the negative pressure to the point where you still get adequate sag.  This means you can still have good small bump sensitivity at higher air pressures, where a solo air fork would stay topped out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will lose a bit of travel is negative pressure exceeds positive by more than a couple psi, but because the negative chamber is much smaller than the positive you can add a fair amount more negative without losing too much travel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO getting correct sag and spring rate is much more important than worrying about losing 5-10mm of travel from a higher negative pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the opposite is true too, if you are getting too much sag at you desired running pressure (spring rate), you can reduce the negative pressure accordingly.  This is valuable to people who like to setup their fork to use full travel rather than based on sag.  If you aren't an aggressive rider but still wants full travel, then you will be running a low positive pressure, which will give you too much sag, so you can reduce your negative pressure until it sags between 15-25%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidenote:&#xA;Running excessive sag to achieve full travel is fair from ideal, you don't really gain any travel because whatever you gain at the end of the stroke you lose at the start from excessive (30-40%) sag.  My 2009 Fox fork was like this, I found it best to run 15-20% sag and not worry about the fact I never used the last 3/4&quot; of travel, the fork was way too wallowy if I lowered the pressure to use full travel.  I replaced it with my dual air Revelation, and have been happy ever since.  I can set my sag optimally and still enjoy every mm of travel it has to offer.  Even though it only has an extra 10mm (130mm RS vs 120mm fox), it feels like an extra 2 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20263" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T16:56:42.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31639" CreationDate="2015-07-01T17:01:05.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure the valve isn't stuck. If it's been sitting that long it probably is. Look at the valve and you'll see a pin in the middle. This pin needs to be depressed for the valve to open and allow air into the tube. Press down on it with a ball point pen, screwdriver tip or similar object to unstick it. Then follow the advice above about holding the tube in place while you attach the pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T17:01:05.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-01T21:16:19.673" Score="7" ViewCount="583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regularly pass a (UK) road sign that I don't recognise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPp5u.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPp5u.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut instinct is that it's warning me about a bridge or a tunnel but it's on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/maps/@53.789653,-1.6109152,3a,19.4y,129.27h,90.63t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sOjyOVE8XWBTe6d8osZ9eEg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;normal dual-carriageway&lt;/a&gt; and there are no obvious overhead structures for more than a mile, nor are there any side turnings that it seems to relate to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what the heck is it and what am I supposed to be looking out for?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20264" LastEditorUserId="20264" LastEditDate="2019-02-23T00:33:43.097" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T20:39:15.520" Title="What does this road sign mean?" Tags="&lt;uk&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31473" CreationDate="2015-07-01T21:40:45.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually knowing if a bike frame is the correct size based on height is nearly impossible, they are best guesses. When looking at fitting a bike there are so many different things a fitter will look at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First lets look at what changes on the bicycle when you change frame size:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top Tube (TT) - this is normally measured as a theoretical as this tube is not normally straight, see the below diagram. This determines how far you have to stretch on the frame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Head Tube (HT) -  this determines how long the steerer is, this is how far down the stem could be mounted as a minimum, but also usually means that they can be mounted higher as well, simply the longer this is the higher the bars tend to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat Tube (ST) - this determines how low you can get your saddle, and how high - the longer the seat tube the higher your saddle can be as a minimum, and the higher as a maximum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0kxiM.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Bike Geometry Guide&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So lets look at what all this means for you. &#xA;If you happen to have short legs and a longer torso/arms, this could mean that a larger frame could be better, as the length of all the tubes increases. To break it down. The top tube length will help as the reach will increase, and usually no one has short enough legs to need seat post all the way into the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you happen to have very long legs and a short torso, its actually more difficult to size and then fit. This is because you have a short reach, which means you need a smaller frame size, but you need to have all of the seat tube out of the frame, this in conjunction with a short head tube means you will have a larger saddle to bar drop (great for the pros, horrific for those not flexible enough, or used to it!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a frame too small and large also has an effect on handling, a larger frame is more cumbersome but much more forgiving and much less twitchy. A smaller frame the opposite is true, much &quot;flickable&quot; and maneuverable, but with the downside of being twitchy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is before we even get into the micro adjustments like stem length, angle and position; saddle position and angle etc etc. Which all again have an effect on handling and comfort e.g. a long low stem makes the bike feel great at high speed, but like a bus at slow speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key points for you as a rider, are the points of contact with the bike and ensuring they are in the correct position. This will affect the overall comfort of the bike. i.e. while a stretched-out, super-low position might be fast, for a prolonged period it can be uncomfortable. And the converse is also true, an upright comfortable position may suit, but this can be slow.  The aim here is to find the compromise of comfort, speed and handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(I dont have any problems with reaching ground with my feet when I stop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is only important in so much as ensuring when standing over the top tube you can put both feet flat on the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13890" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T21:40:45.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-01T21:48:54.883" Score="4" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I determine the torque required for different bolts, etc.? I am new to the world of torque wrenches and have not purchased one yet. I am suffering from chronic loosening of the left side crank and realize that it may be too late to fix, even with a torque wrench, but I'd like to know how to use one properly before buying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20266" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T10:29:11.330" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T10:29:11.330" Title="Torque wrenches" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;torque-wrench&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31650" CreationDate="2015-07-01T22:22:44.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increasingly, manufacturers have started labeling|stamping their parts with their recommended (or required for warranty) torque specifications on the part itself.  You will see this as &quot;10N·m&quot; somewhere near the bolts usually.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as your crank arm issue, it's unlikely that a torque wrench will fix the issue.  Unless you were drastically under tightening the bolts (which is seldom the issue) the usually culprit is damage from riding which the cranks have worked loose.  Once this starts, it generally only gets worse and requires replacement of the crank(s) and/or bottom bracket.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as method of use it varies since their are several varieties of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;torque wrench&lt;/a&gt;.  They vary greatly from types that simply measure the pressure being applied to ones designed to prevent any force above a set amount from being applied.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torque wrenches were designed to prevent stripped bolts and threads or the damage that over tightening can cause to parts (like clamping with too much force on carbon bits and pieces), they are not designed to somehow exert or multiply force during assembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T22:22:44.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31650" CreationDate="2015-07-01T22:23:48.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't necessarily a standard: manufacturers should provide you with the specific torques for each of their components: Specialized should  give you the torque for frame screws, Shimano for derailleur and shifters, Race Face for the cranks, Hope for the brakes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that the same component has different torque recommendations if they come from different manufacturers (a stem from Thomson and another from Truvativ can have different torques) and sometimes even from the same manufacturer (two different stems from Truvativ can have very different torques recommendations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/torque-specifications-and-concepts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt; provides a general table, but you should definitely check the product manual or contact the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a torque wrench is pretty simple: if the recommendation is 30 foot/pound, you set the wrench and it &quot;clicks&quot; and either warns you or stops the mechanic force (depending on the model) when you get to that value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem in your crank is probably due to something wrong in the screw/thread or a piece missing (it is common for cranks to have small pieces just to prevent loosening). It is also possible you're not tightening it with enough torque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T10:28:55.513" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T10:28:55.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31650" CreationDate="2015-07-01T22:24:02.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer of each part determines the torque specifications. Most manuals and instruction sheets included with parts will list the torque specification of each bolt. Sometimes, on large parts like bottom brackets, the torque spec will be listed somewhere on the part itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how to use a torque wrench in general:&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/5XzKvEnk1FY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T22:24:02.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31650" CreationDate="2015-07-01T22:35:21.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Understand that there are several different types of torque wrenches -- simple &quot;beam&quot; units with a pointer indicator and a scale, &quot;click&quot; wrenches which emit a sound to indicate when the set torque has been achieved, &quot;slipper&quot; wrenches which slip when the torque has been achieved, and probably some other variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Significant features/specs are mode of operation (above), min/max torque measured, accuracy, and the sort of actual wrench attachment allowed (usually some standard socket drive scheme).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beam wrenches are the cheapest, pretty reliable, but hard to read.  (Most of the others you set vs &quot;reading&quot; while using.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T22:35:21.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15420" CreationDate="2015-07-01T23:33:53.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I charge mine when on very long bike rides - but when the external power source also dies the Garmin automatically powers down unless you tap the X on the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really wish that Garmin would use bigger batteries!!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20268" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T23:33:53.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31659" CreationDate="2015-07-02T00:56:07.337" Score="0" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first bike after  move to Japan. Picked up an old 520 Cro-MO frame by Tsunoda - Grand Prix , minimal rust and decent paint. It had some old Suntour VX derailleurs, aluminum-far-too-narrow drop bar with suicide brakes, Sugino 165 cranks, lowbar Shimano friction shifters, Araya 27x1.25 aluminum rims (close to true) and a freewheel 6 speed -Suntour  -  125mm rear end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided for now to go with the original wheels (new tires, tape and tubes - repack bearings &amp;amp; replace rear axle), but swap the old freewheel for a new  Shimano 7. front derailleur to Sora double, rear derailleur to Tiagra  RD-4601 (10 speed), keep friction shift for now, replace handlebar, breaks Tektro Long.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is the part that I am very interested in hearing from people about; I wanted to work with the bike for a while, get a good feel before settling on a handset (this will be the biggest cost and from what I can tell the most constrained decision)which includes deciding to change wheels or build a new rear 27 to go with modern 10 speed index shift or get a handset to work with the 7 speed or what?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20271" LastEditorUserId="20271" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T02:59:36.117" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T05:08:51.670" Title="I'm evaluating how to best match a new handset and rear wheel to a vintage rebuild" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;&lt;downtube-shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-07-15T00:26:17.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31658" CreationDate="2015-07-02T00:58:17.383" Score="3" ViewCount="18812" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PHOZM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;I recently got into a small bike accident and the handlebars became loose. It seems to not be in sync with the front bike tire. I tried to tighten the headset and locknut, nothing seems to work. I can easily turn the handlebar into a new position with the tight bolts, which is the issue.&#xA;Is there any other possible ways to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vPdAc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20270" LastEditorUserId="20270" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T04:24:06.310" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T12:55:38.530" Title="Loose Handlebars" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31657" CreationDate="2015-07-02T04:13:22.807" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say out of sync I assume this means that when you look down while on the bike the handlebars point one direction and the wheel points in a slight different direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say locknut so that implies a threaded headset. If so, simply loosen the bolt on the top of the stem and realign the stem with the front wheel while straddling the bike. Note this will also now allow the stem to lower down into the frame so be sure to first mark the height with a piece of tape. Threaded headsets are no longer the norm except on low end bikes and older bikes. Adjusting the lock nut and headset requires a pair of large open-ended wrenches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stem has bolt on top (when you look down on it while riding) AND at the back of it. Then you have a threadless headset. These have been the norm on most bikes for the past ~25 years. The &quot;locknut&quot; you're referring to is the bolt on top of the stem (this bolt holds the fork/frame/stem/headset bearings together and keeps them properly compressed)***. If this is the case then all you need to do is loosen the bolt (or bolts - could be 2) which will allow you to swing the stem and bars left/right. Line the stem with with the front wheel while straddling the bike and then tighten the bolts. Take care not to over tighten the stem bolts! Don't go gorilla with the wrench (this rule applies to almost anything on a bike!) Given the safety repercussions of improperly adjusted stems it would be prudent to have a trained bike mechanic double check your work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;***If you did monkey with the top bolt you may have messed up the adjustment of your headset bearings. Don't panic, it's an easy fix:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen that top bolt however many turns you think you tightened it and maybe a few extra. Also loosen the bolt (or two) at the back of the stem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set the bike on the ground, stand next to it and turn the handlebars 90 degrees. Now squeeze and hold the front brake. Don't let go. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to roll the bike back and forth. You should feel a slight knocking sensation. This is play in the bearings (bad!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the top bolt a half turn. Repeat steps 2 &amp;amp; 3. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat step 4 until the knocking sensation is gone. Key here is to adjust the top bolt in very small increments until the play/knocking is just removed. Any tighter and you'll create binding which will prematurely wear out the bearings. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the bolt or bolts at the rear of the stem. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T04:13:22.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31656" CreationDate="2015-07-02T05:08:51.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tsunoda are/were a mass manufacturer in Japan somewhat similar to Schwinn in the USA. Most of the bikes they produced were low end though they did make some mid-to-upper end models (I once had a Tsunoda made Lotus branded frame from the early 80s). I believe the brand is still around in the Japanese market but now mostly making folding bikes. Your bike sounds like a mid-range bike based on the SunTour parts. It's a very nice sport-touring bike. It's nothing special though arguably better made than comparable bikes of today. In their day the Japanese made mid-range bikes were almost always better built than comparably priced European bikes and often better built than many high-end European bikes! Japan still make amazing bikes though exchange rates keep them from being exported the way they used to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear end is 126mm, not 125. 126mm was the standard up until the late 80s when 8 speed cassettes were introduced. The 126 spacing, VX derailleur and SunTour 6 speed freewheel likely dates your bike to the late 70s to mid 80s. The 27&quot; rims while rare in most of the world by this time were still very common in Japan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what you mean by &quot;handset&quot;. Are you talking about the STI brake levers that also act as shift levers? I'm assuming you are since those are now the norm. If so, there are a few things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need to respace the rear end of the frame to 130mm. This should be done by a bike shop and even better by a frame builder. 10 speed cassettes and modern hubs are spaced to fit 130mm frames. It's not an expensive or difficult process but does take a certain degree of skill and specialized tools. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, you would need to build a new wheel to convert to 10 speed. Your wheel uses a freewheel hub. This means the cassette cluster also houses the freewheel/clutch mechanism. Modern 10 speed drivetrains use a cassette hub in which the freewheel/clutch mechanism is part of the hub and the gear cluster simply slides onto the hub. You can still find 27&quot; rims, especially in Japan. Unless the rims are very worn out I'd probably stick with the original rims and just change the spokes/hub. Panaracer still make some nice 27&quot; tires. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally, you would also replace the chainrings. Modern 10 speed drivetrains really work best with the special chainrings designed for them. These rings have cut away teeth, pins and ramps designed to help the chain move smoothly from one ring to other (especially from small to large). You can often buy a crankset with rings for not much more than just the rings themselves. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need a new chain. 10 speed drivetrains require a much narrower chain. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note: the 27&quot; Araya rims you mention are almost certainly a hookless design. Most rims have a small lip design to help hold the tire on when it's inflated to high pressures. These rims almost certainly do not. I would advise against inflating the tires past 75 psi/5.2 bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T05:08:51.670" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21492" CreationDate="2015-07-02T06:08:48.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting the spoke tensions high &amp;amp; even is on of the most important things – balanced tension makes the wheel stable, high tension keeps the loads on the wheel structure fairly constant as it rolls which helps to prevent spoke breakage. You can get reasonably close by pitch and ear (pluck the spokes and listen to the pitch). If you have a ear that doesn't hear pitch there is a nice iPhone app called &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/spoke-tension-gauge/id518870820?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spoke Tension Gauge&lt;/a&gt; that does the job for like $5 US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T06:08:48.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31612" CreationDate="2015-07-02T09:15:56.127" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Through personal experience, I have found that the higher cadence method will always get me ahead of the group of commuters at the lights. I sometimes see the standing grinders but by the first downstroke of their crank arm, I am already gaining much more acceleration. The grinders are also wobbling all over the place because their centre of mass is much higher and the bike is harder to keep in a straight line. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you will need to experiment with which gear you start in while accelerating in the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I commute on a Trek FX 7.2 and have found my most effective starting gear is using the middle front chain ring (the 38 of 48/38/28) and the largest rear sprocket (the 32 of 11-32, 8 speed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I am spinning at a cadence which is around 80% of my physical limit, I then momentarily relieve the tension in the chain and change one gear (change up rear sprocket). It takes a bit of practise to get this right but it avoids the gears clunking while you shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another benefit of starting in the 38 front chain ring is that I can accelerate to beyond my cruising speed in this chain ring. If I were to start in the 28 chain ring, then I would need to lose some acceleration while making the shift to the 38. A shift between front chain rings is much more time-consuming between a shift between rear sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also make sure that my saddle height is correct and on the limit of being too high. With a lower saddle, it will be near impossible for your legs to transfer power with a high cadence. When I am at the lights, I need to fully extent my leg for my toes to reach the road. While I do this, I keep my other foot on the pedal in the ready-position. As soon as the lights change, I apply power and my extended leg has to 'catch' the spinning crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20276" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T09:15:56.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31483" CreationDate="2015-07-02T11:43:07.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expanding upon a previous answer, you can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://labs.strava.com/heatmap/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava's Heatmap&lt;/a&gt; feature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just stick to the most frequented roads or paths and you should be okay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20276" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T11:43:07.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31666" CreationDate="2015-07-02T14:53:56.540" Score="3" ViewCount="2379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old huffy 26 inch mountain bike.  I changed the tire a couple days ago and now it has a pronounced wobble (side to side movement, not at the axle).  Its like its misaligned somewhere but everything seems tight to me. At certain points the rim is dragging on the brakes.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20281" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-06-01T23:07:09.587" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T23:07:09.587" Title="Rear Tire 'Wobble' After Tire Change" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;wobble&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31664" CreationDate="2015-07-02T15:38:12.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the axle flush in the frame/fork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have rim brakes? If the rim is old and the brake surfaces already quite abraded, inflating with high pressure or installing a wider tire could have broken or deformed the rim walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was the the wheel true (i.e. no wobble) before? How much wobble are we talking? 1mm? 5mm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T15:38:12.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31664" CreationDate="2015-07-02T15:44:51.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely situation is the wheel isn't full seated in the frame. With the bike standing upright on the ground loosen the wheel bolts and lean a bit on the bike which will force the wheel all the way into the dropouts. While still leaning on the bike tighten the wheel bolts. Be sure to alternate bolts when tightening. A lot of times people tighten one side first and the torque causes the other side of the axle to slide slightly out of the dropout resulting in a wobble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T15:44:51.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-02T16:20:11.057" Score="0" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instructions are clear and accompanied by photographs of the procedures.&#xA;However in attempting to fit the motor wheel into the forks of the Sirrus I find that the motor spindle is wider than the existing wheel spindle and will not fit into the fork drop out.At this stage the instructions suggest filing the drop outs to fit which I am loath to do, as if I wish to revert to non electric the drop out will be too wide.&#xA;I am tempted to file the motor spindle to fit the fork, about 2mm of metal.&#xA;All suggestions welcomed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20283" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T22:11:06.447" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T22:11:06.447" Title="Fitting a CycloTricity E kit to a Sirrus Elite" Tags="&lt;electric-power&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-02T17:07:53.303" Score="1" ViewCount="904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about getting a new bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a MTB but I am sort of petrified of road riding (cars pass way too close). I have found a nice Specialized Cyclocross bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to have a bit more practice and I do own a Trainer but can I fit a cyclocross on a trainer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20285" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T01:53:36.770" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T01:53:36.770" Title="Cyclocross vs road bike" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;&lt;turbo-trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31669" CreationDate="2015-07-02T17:19:49.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most trainers on the market today can do 26&quot;, 29&quot; and 700c. Specialized's cyclocross bikes are 700c, your trainer will likely be able to handle it fine, but check the manual (*).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A trainer won't help you gain confidence riding in traffic though -- you'll just have to practice riding in traffic, which is the bigger problem here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) Your trainer may have specific recommendations, e.g. no carbon fiber bikes in the trainer or something. Read the documentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T17:19:49.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31669" CreationDate="2015-07-02T19:09:11.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Specialized will be fine in the Elite trainer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one problem you'll find is that knobby tires don't work well on trainers such as this. If you plan to primarily ride on the road I'd strongly suggest investing in some road tires. A cyclocross bike can take some fairly wide tires so I'd suggest running 28-32mm wide tires. They'll be MUCH more comfortable than regular 23-25mm tires, faster/more efficient than knobby cross tires and will also still allow you to ride on gravel roads. Trails that are too easy on a MTB suddenly become a real hoot on a cross or road bike! It's arguably a better way to improve your bike handling skills than riding a MTB on more technical trails.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of Panaracer Pasela tires which can often be had for less than $30, have a nice ride, are quite durable and available in a variety of widths. If you want really nice tires check out Compass or Grand Bois. These are probably the nicest, cushiest road tires made but they also cost 2-3 times what the Paselas cost and won't last as long. Good tires can make a huge difference in how your bike rides. Finally, trainers tend to wear tires down much faster than regular road riding so I wouldn't go crazy investing in expensive tires if you plan to spend a lot of time on the trainer. They actually do make special tires just for use on trainers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for riding on the road, there is no easy way around that. Start on quieter streets or streets with bike lanes or wide shoulders. It really is just a matter of getting used to it. Riding with a group will also help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T19:09:11.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31673" CreationDate="2015-07-02T19:28:03.187" Score="12" ViewCount="6255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to keep track of how far I ride on paper and while it's nice to have the data, I'd like to know how different rides stack up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have one path I like to take which is really flat and goes about 30 miles out (I usually only do 10 and then turn around), but I've found this ride is much easier for me than the other route I take which nets me about 12 miles and about 500 feet in elevation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw on &lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/708/how-do-you-determine-how-long-a-hike-will-take/5595#5595&quot;&gt;another SE&lt;/a&gt; that they calculate 500 feet elevation gain into one mile, but this doesn't seem that accurate for a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what I want to know is if there is a standard calculation for &quot;effort&quot; or distance between distance and elevation gain, given perhaps average speed or any other relevant factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20286" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:48:00.067" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T18:32:31.197" Title="Is there a standard equivalent for effort between distance and elevation?" Tags="&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;exercise&gt;&lt;hills&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31672" CreationDate="2015-07-02T19:40:34.817" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want to measure how much effort you're putting in, you should look into getting a power meter. It measures the actual wattage you output, and can therefore be used to calculate total energy output. However, they are quite expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to get a heart rate monitor along with cadence and speed meters which together can give you a reasonable estimate of how much energy you used.  This ends up being much cheaper than a power meter, but is less accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the preferred methods if you a really want to track how hard you are training. This is because many things can effect how much effort it takes to cycle such as hills (like you mentioned), but also wind, your body position, and the road surface itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T19:40:34.817" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15321" CreationDate="2015-07-02T21:44:33.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed this as well.  In my experience, on higher end road bikes, the cassette that you put on the freehub body makes the most audible difference, versus the actual inner-workings of the freehub itself in most cases, i.e. normal, ratchet style freehub body.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: I went from a Sram PG-1130 cassette to a PG-1170 recently.  The lower end cassette (1130) construction is different, specifically the dome and spacers (which are plastic).  On the higher end cassette (1170) the dome is lighter and stiffer, and the spacers are steel and attached to the cogs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cassette acts like an amplifier for the sounds coming from the freehub.  Thus, a cassette like the aforementioned 1170, with a very resonant dome and body, casts way more sound than the 1130, which is expected as it has plastic construction with deadens the sound considerably and a thicker dome, which also hinders resonance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed immediately after the switch that the sound coming from my bike went from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;click, click, click...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;ting!, ting!, ting!...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I like the 'ping/ting' sound better and associate it with higher quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T21:44:33.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31685" CreationDate="2015-07-02T22:53:24.977" Score="4" ViewCount="3812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a mountain bike with a Suntour XCM fork with lockout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a BSO rider, this is my first ever bike with a lockout on the fork. I will be riding trails, but most of my riding will be in an urban setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork bobs and steals energy while I'm riding, so I figure I'll have it locked out while I'm on pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride aggressively, and I occasionally hit potholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My previous bike was a rigid steel BSO. It took some hard hits while street riding, but nothing ever happened to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This brings me to my question: How strong is the thingy that locks out the fork? Will it break if the front wheel takes a hard hit while the fork is locked out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T05:07:51.313" Title="Hitting bumps on a locked out suspension fork" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31672" CreationDate="2015-07-03T00:02:23.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on other factors as well.  A big one is speed. When you climb a hill, there is a minimum energy expenditure to get up the hill.  On the flat, there is almost no minimum, but riding 10 mph is much easier than 15 mph (or whatever range of speeds is suitable for you).  If you climb hills fast, you will get tired quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elevation gain can be measured in various ways as well.  If you use Strava or MapMyRide to tell you that you have gained 500 feet, that is much less than looking on a map and finding you got 500 feet above where you started.  The apps add up all the little ups along the way, so may report 1500 feet of climb when your altitude is just up 500 feet.  You have to get used to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T00:02:23.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31681" CreationDate="2015-07-03T01:34:44.523" Score="0" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a vintage (165mm-Crnk) Sugino 40/48 on here now, but am looking to add some gear range for up hill with med-sm load. I have a Tiagra short cage RD and  a Sora double FD. I am friction shifting. I'm considering doing a chain ring like 26/36/48  with an 11-34  freewheel  which would give me adequate range, I believe 20-117 ish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I add a chainring to my set? Mine is 110mm 5 arm which sems like it should be replaceable with say a Shimano. I was also thinking I could just get a smaller maybe 36 tooth and call it a day with 2 rings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding so far is that my Tiagra rear derailleur has maximum of 28T. I've heard of people friction shifting using a double FD for triple front rings. Has anyone seen this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20271" LastEditorUserId="20271" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T03:53:56.770" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T04:43:50.243" Title="Can I add 3rd chainring to a an old Sugino double?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31682" CreationDate="2015-07-03T01:45:35.400" Score="1" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;The contestants:  Shimano SL-BS64 Ultegra Bar End Shifter Set (8-Speed)  and Dia Competition Grand competition ENE bar end control.   Seem fairly similar and both well loved.  I'm aiming at pairing these with something like 26/36/48  and 7 speed  12-32.  Am I missing any good possibilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20271" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T04:54:03.317" Title="I've decided on Bar End Shifters for my Vintage tour bike rebuild. I think I've got it down to these. Any reason to choose one or other?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31672" CreationDate="2015-07-03T02:43:28.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on speed.  If you go slow (and there is no headwind) then riding on the flat is almost effortless (rolling friction is a very small factor with properly-inflated road tires).  What slows you on the flat is wind resistance, and the faster you go the more wind resistance you face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, climbing a hill of a given height consumes a fixed amount of energy regardless of how fast you do it (once you factor out wind resistance), and, in theory, regardless of how steep the climb is (though of course once the hill gets too steep to climb &quot;theory&quot; falls apart).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably come up with a way to convert a given % climb rate into an equivalent headwind for you and your bike, but there's no way to convert % climb into level miles with any degree of meaningfulness.  At best you can come up with a conversion factor that assumes a given speed or energy output.  And this would obviously be different for every rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T02:43:28.143" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31678" CreationDate="2015-07-03T04:43:50.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the IRD Defiant wide range double crankset &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.somafab.com/irdwicorodoc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.somafab.com/irdwicorodoc.html&lt;/a&gt;) It has a 94bcd which allows it to run 46x30 rings. Combine that with a 12-27 cassette or freewheel and you'll have plenty of range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going to a triple presents a few problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't shift as well as a double.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a short cage rear derailleur so max rear cog is 27, maybe 30 teeth. Definitely won't handle 34 teeth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triple cranks require triple compatible front derailleurs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A double is simpler and lighter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Interloc will look a lot nicer on your 80s era bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A triple will usually require a longer bottom bracket spindle than a double.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T04:43:50.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31679" CreationDate="2015-07-03T04:54:03.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're friction shifting go with the Dia Compe. They have a ratcheting mechanism in them originally developed by SunTour to counteract the spring in the derailleur. This gives them a very even feel in both directions - you apply as much pressure to upshift as to downshift. They also look better on older bikes. The Shimano shifters OTOH rely purely on friction when in friction mode. This means shifting into lower gears takes more effort than shifting into higher gears. Of course the advantage of the Shimano shifters is that they also have indexed mode though you need an 8 speed cassette.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T04:54:03.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31675" CreationDate="2015-07-03T05:01:12.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suspension forks with lock outs also have blow-off valves for exactly this sort of situation. It takes a really hard hit to damage the fork. You'll more likely dent your rim first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T05:01:12.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T05:05:35.480" Score="1" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have cleated shoes. My feet do a lot of work floor miles and get I pain in ball of my foot. I feel like the cleat is pushing on the ball of my foot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering changing the shoe liner; would this help or not? I have N.W foot wear, they are at least 6 month old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20289" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T08:21:31.217" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T01:51:49.910" Title="Foot pain with cleated shoes" Tags="&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31675" CreationDate="2015-07-03T05:07:51.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read about damaged lockout systems from big hits while locked, so my advise is treat a locked fork as a fragile fork unless you want an expensive repair bill. Probably the key point is what is &quot;a hard hit&quot; and &quot;high load&quot;  for a fork? That said, I have taken a couple of what I would call big hits with my fork locked with no damage, but I weigh under 70kg and what I call big is probably nothing to some people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual for the Suntour forks is somewhat contradictory. In one line it says &quot;...This system protects you when riding in demanding terrain in case you forgot to unlock the fork.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then immediately it states&#xA;&quot;...The fork may become damaged when it is compressed under a high load....&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The take away I get is it protects you but will possibly be damaged. In your case, I would suggest cranking up the pre-load when on the road, and only using the lockout when you know there are no potholes around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T05:07:51.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31687" CreationDate="2015-07-03T05:17:06.267" Score="3" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have old dull aluminum break pulls on dropbars with suicide levers.  The new brakes are Tektro long reach.  Should I change the levers?  If so what is a good quality/price lever to buy?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20271" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T16:40:52.883" Title="If I am using Bar End Shifters, is there a compelling reason to change the old brake levers?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31686" CreationDate="2015-07-03T06:32:02.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you don't have to… That said, Tektro makes some very nice and inexpensive levers – both drop bar levers (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=67&amp;amp;sortname=Lever&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RL340&lt;/a&gt;) and interrupter levers (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=58&amp;amp;sortname=Cyclocross&amp;amp;sort=2&amp;amp;fid=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;RL720&lt;/a&gt;) which are &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; more effective than suicide levers. At the very least, I would take off the suicide levers, I've never had good luck with them. The problem that I had with suicide levers was that they had so much flex in them that it was hard to get good braking unless your wheels were &lt;em&gt;perfectly&lt;/em&gt; true and the brakes were adjusted &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; close to the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found an extensive discussion on suicide levers &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5267/why-dont-brakes-come-with-safety-levers-any-more&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T16:40:52.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31648" CreationDate="2015-07-03T07:18:55.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a low bridge / arch bridge warning. Strange, they usually have text indicating the minimum height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvqvB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvqvB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ukmotorists.com/signs/5h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ukmotorists.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is a &lt;strong&gt;wrong answer&lt;/strong&gt; but keeping it here so other people can know it’s not a low bridge sign. Feel free to downvote. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-03-18T20:39:15.520" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T20:39:15.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31672" CreationDate="2015-07-03T09:38:00.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no, there is no standard equivalent for effort between distance and elevation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, as others have mentioned, they are connected by the amount of effort you put in. But as you ride faster on the flat, the power required to drive you along rises as the square (some say the cube) of your speed. So riding 10% faster takes 20% to 30% more effort. This is mostly down to wind resistance, but rolling resistance plays a part too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a hill, your (well, at least my) speed is lower. Lets say you're climbing at 10kph (6mph). So the wind resistance is way lower (less than 1/6th) than the resistance you would have at 25kph (15.6mph). The main work (5/6 of the effort if you're producing the same power) you're doing is levering yourself up the hill. If you go 10% faster then the wind resistance still rises by 20% or so, but the effort of getting up the hill rises linearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the point is, it's complicated. That's why there's no equivalence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why, if you look at Strava or other tracking apps, they distinguish distance and elevation. They also distinguish time in the saddle, because measures something else: endurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a real example, take a couple of my own rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Today I rode an out and back course over 28 km (17.5 mi) with 650 m (2132 ft) of climbing. It's an undulating course averaging about 2.3% I averaged 25.3 kph (15.8 mph), similar to your pace. While not flat, it is compared to the next ride ...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the summer (it's winter here now) I climbed a hill. It's 1100 m (3600 ft) of solid climbing in 17 km (10.6 mi). It averages 6%, with pitches up to 24%. It took me 1 hour 45 minutes, for an average speed of only 9.7 kph (about 6 mph)!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two things about these rides. They show that I'm just a cyclist of modest abilities, so such comparisons should be relevant to you and many others. They also show the effect of continuous climbing, the effect of steeper hills, and the effect of longer duration, all tangled together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T09:38:00.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31690" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T10:43:28.647" Score="0" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I trued my wheel yesterday a bit, since many spokes lost some tension. Once I finished, all spokes were quite rigid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I put the new tire on and as I was inflating it, I heard the spokes loosen up, with a typical cling, as heard while truing. The tension adjustment seems to have gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire was indeed hard to put on, but after inflation it fits the rim properly, no part of the tire is sunk inside. The pressure is also correct, 0.4 MPa (the max pressure allowed being 0.45 MPa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, the inner tube expands equally strong in all directions, so also inwards; however I have not observed visible contraction of the rim so far, even in the cheap $15 models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a wheel should be trued with the tire on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5879" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T17:26:53.047" Title="Rim compression after tire inflation" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;wheel-truing&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31684" CreationDate="2015-07-03T13:00:39.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually shoes for walking/running and cycling shoes are constructed quite differently: shoes you walk on are usually far less rigid, most have a much softer sole to absorb shocks/bumps, and of course do not have cleats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As this is ergonomics and people are quite different, there is probably no general answer: I find walking in SPD Trecking shoes uncomfortable, but not enough that I would not use them every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your specific problem, I guess changing liners could help. However you'd need very stiff liners that actually distribute unevenness. I have not yet seen those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have static workplace: maybe you could arrange having a second pair of shoes specifically for walking there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T13:00:39.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T16:20:48.950" Score="0" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any help in what front pedal crank replacement gears to buy for my old Rockhopper.  It is a Altus A-10 crank.  I believe the crank to be fine but the gears look to be worn quite a bit.  Took it to a bike shop and they replaced the rear wheel gears, but still slips a little.  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y68br.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20291" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T20:05:06.243" Title="20 yr old specialized rockhopper needs new crank gears" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31690" CreationDate="2015-07-03T17:26:53.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sounds you heard were the spokes unwinding as the pressure in the tire relieved some of the tension in the rim. As you tighten the spoke nipples the spokes tend to &quot;wind up&quot; due to the friction between the threads in the nipple and the threads of the spoke. If the friction is high enough (old corroded spokes/nipples or a lack of lubrication on the spoke threads) you're just winding up the spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you true a wheel, pay attention to the spokes – are they moving with the nipple, or are you actually able to tighten the nipple on the spoke. One place where you can easily see this is by watching the &quot;back&quot; of the nipple on the inside of the rim. Add some light oil if necessary to help lubricate the threads. Expect some wind up, it is pretty much unavoidable. To release the wound up spokes you can put the wheel down on a hard surface and press down gently on the rim. Work your way around the wheel pressing down on the rim – you should hear the spokes unwinding and perhaps feel them moving as well. Do it on both sides of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should go a long way towards resolving the problem. For what it is worth I never true new wheels with the tire on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T17:26:53.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31707" CreationDate="2015-07-03T18:33:13.490" Score="2" ViewCount="7148" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a conventional wisdom to what gear a bike should be left in, when used infrequently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18532" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T08:30:53.927" Title="When not used, what gear should I store my bike in" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31694" CreationDate="2015-07-03T18:34:55.250" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter for any perspective aside from convenience -- usually the most convenient gear to store it in is the gear you're going to use first when you start riding again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T18:34:55.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30369" CreationDate="2015-07-03T19:31:16.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because of the era of production, the length of the bike is actually fine, and it's just the hight that is off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is the problem then? Saddle too high even when lowered as far as possible? The wheel size is completly irrelevant for that problem. Or are you unable to stand on the ground without your privates hitting the top tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T19:31:16.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31692" CreationDate="2015-07-03T20:05:06.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;front pedal crank gears&quot; are called chainrings. Just searching for the word should find several options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several different bolt circle diameters for 5-bolt mountain bike chainrings. It's best to measure. Aftermarket parts from brands other than Shimano are fine, look for chainrings designed for 8 speeds or less and correct bolt circle diameter (BCD).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For changing the chainring, you need a chainring bolt tool to keep the other side of bolt from spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T20:05:06.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T20:32:03.670" Score="1" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Motobecane Super Mirage that I bought in 1977. I have another bike for regular use, and I've decided to completely rebuild the older one. I determined today that the freewheel teeth are worn down, so I need to replace that. I am just learning about freehubs. Can I replace the freewheel with a freehub setup? What factors do I need to keep in mind if doing so? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20295" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T20:44:01.880" Title="Replace freewheel with freehub?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;diy&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31698" CreationDate="2015-07-03T20:44:01.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd need to replace the hub (i.e. build the wheel with a new hub -- typically, its better to just get a new wheel), and then &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html#spreading&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;respace the frame&lt;/a&gt; (i.e. coldset) to take the new hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy still to find freewheels, so I'd recommend you just replace the freewheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T20:44:01.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T21:06:28.953" Score="0" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building up a vintage mid 70s AlAn that cannot have it's rear drop outs cold set to a wider width.&#xA;I have a nice set of williams clincher wheels which are substantially lighter than anything oem (28/24)&#xA;By replacing the shimano freehub with a 7spd and the axel with a 7spd length is it possible shrink the rear hub width to 126mm from the 135?&#xA;(I realize I'll probably have to redish the rear wheel)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20296" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T14:54:24.627" Title="Converting down from 10spd to 7spd" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31700" CreationDate="2015-07-03T22:46:13.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I kind of doubt it. The hub will still be 10-speed and I'm pretty sure that a 10-speed cassette is wider than a 7, so you won't get back all of the width (in fact I'm not sure you'll get any of it back). Even if you got some back, putting it into a 126 mm frame likely means that the wheel would be &quot;over dished&quot; (there would be a poor bracing angle on the right side spokes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like you'd do better to go looking for a NOS 7-speed hub so that you could build up a proper 126 mm wheel. If the flange sizes are the same you could probably reuse the existing spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T22:46:13.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-04T00:40:52.083" Score="-1" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have trek 3700 with 26X2 knobbytires on them. I do not intend to ever go off road again. What is the thinnest size tire I can put on. I don't know what size my rims are but everything is standard on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you, &#xA;Chris&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20298" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T07:56:12.870" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T07:56:12.870" Title="I don't want knobby tires" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31732" CreationDate="2015-07-04T00:57:41.037" Score="1" ViewCount="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 48 tooth main ring with 165 cranks. FD is Sora double and rear is Tiagra short with Shimano 7 freewheel.  If I can put this 34 ring on it gives me sufficient range for the next few months and time to evaluate before any larger purchase of cranks. (likely I would go to 170 0r 172.5) I'm using Diacompe bar end friction shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it necessary or desirable to replace large ring as well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20271" LastEditorUserId="20271" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T02:41:23.533" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T18:33:48.603" Title="I have an old Sugino 110mm BCD ring set, can I replace low ring with SHIMANO FC-5650 chainring 34T?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31612" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:04:45.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a power meter and see what output you are getting at various rpm / loads. There is a big difference of 120rpm at 200w or 600w. This relationship will most likely not be linear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;150 rpm seems much too high, but everyone is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally find great power at 105-120. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Timing yourself or using HR can be a measure as well, but power is the only way to know for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T03:04:45.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31712" CreationDate="2015-07-04T05:41:27.443" Score="0" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 520 mm cro-mo vintage tsunado road bike. It has 27 inch wheels. I'm putting a pannier rack on the back *preferably steel, but I'll consider Al.  It doesn't have the upper mounts but the dropouts have fenders so there are points there. I am going to be using it for touring, commuting, even picking up materials for the construction I'm doing (if anyone knows how to load a 3/4 inch sheet of ply onto bike,  I'll be really surprised)  I'm sure that I'd like to be able to load at least 25kg on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be very interested in any pointers on what to get.  I'd like to keep the price in the best bang for buck range,  function/quality nothing fancy. If there any thoughts on bags I'm equally interested - Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20271" LastEditorUserId="20271" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T05:59:24.723" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T10:44:11.500" Title="Does anyone have any special notes on buying pannier racks?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31702" CreationDate="2015-07-04T06:28:44.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am assuming you have the Bontrager AT-650? That is the current wheel set from what I can see. You should &lt;em&gt;theoretically&lt;/em&gt; be able to go down all the way to 23mm on those, as from what I've been able to see the rim width should be ~19mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would want to is a different matter. Super skinny tires on a hybrid/mountain bike just seems off to me. When I converted my MTB to a more roadworthy bike I put 28mm slicks on and these were a good mix of comfort and speed IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19937" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T06:28:44.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31694" CreationDate="2015-07-04T08:30:53.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike @Batman and @Daniel, I think it does matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike should be stored with the gears set to the highest gear (the chain on the smallest cog), so that the spring in the derailleur is under the least pressure, and the cable is also under the last tension. So the cable will stretch less and the gears will stay in adjustment longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T08:30:53.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31709" CreationDate="2015-07-04T09:19:10.923" Score="3" ViewCount="120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the 3-rd puncture of the rear wheel tube during 3 weeks. All of them have the same pattern: 1 small breach about 0.5mm long. I added the photographs of the last one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bubble inside the water coming out of the tube through the puncture.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQtcK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The little puncture.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HycmL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previous patched puncture&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YuysU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the second puncture I thought, that it was caused by a grain of sand that got between the tube and the tire. So when I assembled the wheel I carefully cleaned the space between the tube and the tire with open hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have no idea what can cause these punctures and what should I do to avoid them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13656" LastEditorUserId="13656" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T12:04:01.180" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T12:30:29.913" Title="Third tube puncture in 3 weeks" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31708" CreationDate="2015-07-04T10:14:56.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found it! After careful inspection of the tire I found a small piece of glass stuck into it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KeXYH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Small piece of glass with a ruler&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's sharp side was facing the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the place where it was stuck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlIWc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the internal side of the tire you can see a little hole:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/22Clr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was hard to feel this little thing by hand. But when I pumped the tire and rode, creating high pressure, this sharp edge has eventually punctured the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13656" LastEditorUserId="13656" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T12:30:29.913" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T12:30:29.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31700" CreationDate="2015-07-04T14:54:24.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Freewheel bodies (the part that cassette is installed on) are generally non-interchangeable. It is not possible to take a freewheel body from an old 7-speed freehub and install it on a modern hub, especially one from a brand that has never made 7-speed hubs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception to the rule are hubs/wheels that are made with both Shimano and Campagnolo compatible freewheel body, usually you can buy the other freehub body as a spare part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T14:54:24.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31705" CreationDate="2015-07-04T17:09:02.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bang for buck would suggest an aluminum rack, but these typically don't support high loads.  Once you start heading into the 20-30+ kg range steel performs better in terms of total load capacity and behavior under load (I.e., less flex which reduces the chance of a shimmy).  In terms of steel I have had good luck with Tubus and hear good things about Surly racks.  However neither of these racks are cheap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About fenders&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of frame eyelets and fenders, some racks (usually the higher end ones) have additional mount points for fender struts.  If you are handy you can often create your own mounting points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;About pulling building supplies&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your intent is to be in the transport building supplies such as plywood, you should really think about alternatives to racks such as a trailer. There are lots of different types of trailers. I've seen some flat bed like trailers for putting large awkward objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T10:44:11.500" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T10:44:11.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-04T18:32:23.657" Score="0" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is only so much I can do with logging my rides with my phone. Both the Strava and Runtastic Apps have issues logging my rides. Importing a GPX file from one to the other produces inconsistencies and it's annoying not knowing the exact info from my ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a Garmin Edge 305, and was looking into getting a new Garmin unit. Reading over the reviews, Garmin's site, and Amazon listings, I am really confused as to what unit to get. The 510 fits in my price range, but some reviews say that it has a lot of GPS issues. Additionally, Garmin no longer sells it, so I'm thinking that it will be replaced soon. Garmin Touring and 810 do not come with the accessories, and are absolutely too expensive when bundled up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there an android app that does a better job recording rides and&#xA;allows importing into Strava's website without too many&#xA;inconsistencies?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What Garmin unit will give me a heart rate&#xA;monitor, wheel and candance sensors, and the abiity to extrac the&#xA;GPX file into Strava's website?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14679" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T22:41:23.647" Title="What GPS unit should I get? Or, is there a better app I could use to log my rides?" Tags="&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2015-07-06T00:31:41.773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-04T18:41:23.037" Score="0" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a project bike. I made it myself from bits recycled.   It is currently a single speed, although I'm thinking of adding gears to turn it into a bit of a commuter/excercise bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I do that, I really need to sort out the fit.  It doesn't seem to fit me, or even itself very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike dimensions - 51cm seattube, 50cm top tube, chain stay 41cm.   tires are 700x32.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bike has a seat tube length of 51cm which seems right for me at 5'6.  When i sit on it my leg is straight at the bottom of the stroke, However there is virtually no standover room.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the bike seems pretty cramped horizontally, that is the handlebars seem too close to the seat.  in fact i'm not sure if the top tube is long enough. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The front wheel, despite being the right size to line up with the brake, seems to be way to close to the downtube, and as a result clips my toes sometimes when I'm pedaling. Does this bike even fit itself?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;both wheels are pretty tight through the brake.  That's probably because of the chunky tires. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have I done wrong? How can i get the bike to feel a bit less cramped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/poVhb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;an odd looking bicycle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wy8yy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5629" LastEditorUserId="5629" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T17:31:23.787" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T17:31:23.787" Title="My Bike doesn't seem to fit itself" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31714" CreationDate="2015-07-04T20:09:23.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The geometry of this frame looks odd. 622mm wheels are too large to fit comfortably in a 51cm frame. Usually sizes this small are made to compensate with very steep seat tube angle to let the rear wheel forward and very shallow steering angle to avoid toes clipping front wheel. This bike has been made the other way around and that is why it looks and feels strange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With saddle as low as shown in picture, the frame is too high for you. With horizontal top tube, there should usually be about hand's width of seatpost showing. The saddle should be roughly horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Longer handlebar stem or less swept back handlebars will help.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is a problem with all small frames with large wheels. Is the fork the original one? Some older bikes came with steep steering angles and very high fork offsets. The offset eliminates some of the problem with toe overlap but makes steering twitchy at high speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;32mm tires are the absolute maximum size to fit inside short reach brakes. Normally the kind of brake is used with 23mm to 25mm tires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: @Will's comment led me to the idea that this bike could have been a 650B or at least converted into one. That would reduce the standover height and allow wider tires and also explain the strange-looking angles. Smaller wheels would lower the bottom bracket, so saddle would still look too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="10595" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T18:27:41.907" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T18:27:41.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31714" CreationDate="2015-07-04T20:54:35.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike was built as a racer and it looks you are trying to make it into  a hybrid/Commuter and get a more relaxed riding position. This wont work as the geometry is wrong for that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried with the seat more horizontal. As it is, it will push you forward. Its also as far forward as it will go - slide if back on its rails. At the same time raise the seat height and/or lower the handlebars - normally a road bike the seat is higher than the bars.  If this does not work drop bars might help as would a longer stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T20:54:35.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-04T23:51:25.293" Score="2" ViewCount="3117" Body="&lt;p&gt;How common is toe overlap on 29&quot; wheel bikes? Also, is there a way to fix the overlap by say replacing the shocks for some with more travel? Lastly, is toe overlap a major issue on a mountain bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20304" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T10:44:23.337" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T07:13:18.723" Title="Toe overlap on mountain bike" Tags="&lt;29er&gt;&lt;toe-overlap&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31713" CreationDate="2015-07-05T00:03:33.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been quite happy using Cyclemeter (the iPhone version). I use it with a Wahoo RFLKT+ to get a display and ANT+ bridge. There are also some good looking mounts available, I really like the looks of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rokform.com/bike-mounts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rokform mounts&lt;/a&gt; but I haven't used them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T00:03:33.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T00:18:13.817" Score="2" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's summer now and it's hot. The way to my office is up-hill (&lt;strong&gt;half of the way is off-road&lt;/strong&gt;). With my health it's not a good idea to work hard physically in such whether. And there is no shower in office. So could you please describe main criteria of choosing a bicycle that allows getting up-hill with less effort? I mean the tradeoff between speed and force - I want to reduce force. I would appreciate two options (&lt;strong&gt;without engine&lt;/strong&gt;): less and more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20303" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T06:12:24.460" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T17:09:11.503" Title="Describe main criteria of choosing energy-conserving bicycle that allows getting easily up-hill" Tags="&lt;hills&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31719" CreationDate="2015-07-05T01:02:43.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Uphill - gears and weight. Extending the lowest gear range till its faster and easier to walk and push the bike is cheap and easy and would be the first thing on my list to do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting down weight (of the bike) is an has an exponential cost/gram relationship - you quickly get from $1/gram to $100/gram. Cutting your weight does not require the cash, and in most people cases a very effective way to gain speed uphill. (Shaving 5kg off a bike will cost $1000's, even if possible, many people can afford to loose twice that). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you said no engine, in your situation (hot, uphill, no shower at end, health concerns) a pedal assist electric bike would be a very effective way to achieve your apparent aim. Would you be prepared to rethink that position and consider an eBike?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T01:02:43.840" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31719" CreationDate="2015-07-05T01:08:09.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you want to look at is the &lt;strong&gt;gearing&lt;/strong&gt;. Let's consider a regular derailleur-based bicycle such as this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/bicycleparts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(source)&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1RFm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets call the number of teeth on the chainring / number of teeth on the gear you're using in the cassette the gear ratio. If the gear ratio is higher, for a given pedaling speed the bike will go faster. When you are climbing a hill, you will use a lower gear ratio versus going down hill or on the flats where you'll want a higher gear ratio. (*)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally the cassette these days has 7-11 gears and you have a double or triple chainring configuration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to deal with hills, you'll want a wide range of gear ratios. This can be achieved with a compact double (50t/34t) or triple in the front, and a cassette with a decent range in the back. Generally, the type of bike will also change the type of gearing available -- mountain bikes will have very low gear ratios but no high ratios since they don't cruise along at high speed. Road racers intended for flat use will normally have high gear ratios and not many low ratios. Hybrids and touring bikes will have something in the middle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can change the available ratios by putting on a different cassette (which may involve a new chain and rear derailleur depending on the length of the chain and derailleur capacity) or by replacing chainrings (but this is harder, and may require front derailleur changes as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, you need to learn how to select the right gear and keep a high enough cadence (rate of pedaling) -- usually around 80 rpm. This comes with practice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest going to a local bike shop (LBS) and asking them about bikes which would work well for your physical fitness and commute. We don't know how bad your health is or the type of terrain you're crossing, which would determine the appropriate gearing. Also, you may want clearance for bigger tires and other things if you're doing some off roading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) This isn't everything that goes into gearing -- The crank arm length and outer diameter of the tire also contribute to gearing. However, lets neglect these, since the outer diameter is going to be around the same for all bikes of similar intended use and the crank arm length about the same for bikes of about the same size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T01:08:09.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31717" CreationDate="2015-07-05T01:13:59.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is known some people moving to 29er's have issues with tow overlap, especially on small frames. I know when I am not using cleats, I sometimes get a bit of toe strike, less so now, but initially it was happening regularly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best not to try and 'fix' the overlap - the bike geometry will be negatively affected unless extreme care is taken. Its not a major issue, you get used to having to keep your feet back (where they should be for efficient riding) Clip less pedals solve the problem completely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a reason the industry quickly moved to 650b. One take is one size does not fit all as the failed 29 experiment shows. The other (cynical one) is the industry needed a reason to sell more bikes, so they came up with 29er as the new &quot;must have&quot; for a couple of seasons then introduced the 650b and said &quot;this one is much better again&quot;, knowing all along 650b was a better &quot;one size for all&quot; size..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T01:13:59.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31717" CreationDate="2015-07-05T05:27:24.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how common it is. I can tell you that it's not as big a problem as you would expect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toe overlap only comes into play when you're making very sharp turns at low speed. Hitting your toe on the front tire would be dangerous at high speed - but at low speed, it's just annoying. And it doesn't even happen that often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T05:27:24.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31714" CreationDate="2015-07-05T05:43:04.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there's little stand-over space, then the frame doesn't fit you, and there's nothing you can do except get a new frame. Either get one with a shorter seat tube, or get a &quot;compact&quot; design with a sloping top tube. You can just stop reading here, but I'll answer your other points just because.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can move the seat back, or get a longer stem, or get handlebars that put your hands further forward.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The fork you have is not the one that originally came with the frame, is it? The original fork probably had a higher rake, which would put the wheel further forward. Toe overlap is something you can learn to live with, though.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As long as the tires aren't rubbing, there's no problem. If there's very little clearance, you just have to pay close attention to it, and make sure your wheels are true. Or get skinnier tires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T05:43:04.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31714" CreationDate="2015-07-05T05:45:17.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/31716/8273&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; by @mattnz ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks to me like an &lt;em&gt;old&lt;/em&gt; frame to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steep headtube angle is supposed to be matched with forks that have more forward curve. And it should have drop bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another Parleigh, built as a fixie (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/2008/sept/3/SaxifrageCucvara.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMmEH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the seat height, and the reach to the bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T05:45:17.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31717" CreationDate="2015-07-05T06:35:06.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 46cm gravel bike with 170mm crank arms (it's a Surly Cross Check, it's approximately equivalent to a 50cm road bike ). Although it isn't a MTB, it's still a 29er (700c = 29er with narrower tires). Indeed, toe overlaps are  issues for me, although they are more like annoyance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toe overlaps mostly happen when I stop at a red light, or sudden strong braking (almost completely stop) with a sharp turn. However, when I ride the bike in trails with twisty turns, at a reasonable speed, toe overlaps have never occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think toe overlaps don't affect the riding performance. At first, it's quite annoying but it's not the end of the world. After a while, I'm used to it and I don't plan to modify my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;Recently I've been trying a lot of things on my bike, here's what I can tell from my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go for thinner tires, I used 700x40 tires and toe overlaps happened more often. Afterwards, switching to 700x35 tires reduces the occurrence of the problem. Depending of the tires, 5mm tire width difference is very noticeable, since the diameter of the fully inflated tires can be significantly reduced, so the distance between the pedal axle to the tire surface is increased.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use clipless pedals. This might not help depending the pedalling habit while using platform pedals. When I used platform pedals, my foot position was already around the ball of the foot, so after switching to clipless I do not feel any difference. However, clipless pedals give some kind of predictability since my foot position does not change so I can guess/predict when the toe overlaps will likely to occur and I rotate the pedals backward to avoid them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T07:13:18.723" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T07:13:18.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31713" CreationDate="2015-07-05T10:32:10.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://osmand.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;osmand&lt;/a&gt; is really good when it comes to routing - it uses openstreetmap material, which is in many regions excellent, supports displaying, directing by and recording GPX-tracks. It's map display is highly configurable, e.g. it can display all kinds of POI, one of it being drinking water wells. There's also a router plugin, &lt;a href=&quot;http://brouter.de/brouter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brouter&lt;/a&gt; that takes climb into account. However osmand is primarily for routing, monitoring activity comes second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iforpowell.com/cms/index.php?page=ipbike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ipbike&lt;/a&gt; on the other hand is a bike computer app supporting ANT+ and Bluetooth Low Energy sensors that also displays maps and tracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how well they do with Strava since I don't use that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hardware, you might want to take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/&lt;/a&gt;, especially the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/product-comparison-calculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;product comparison&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastEditorUserId="4601" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T22:41:23.647" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T22:41:23.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31739" CreationDate="2015-07-05T16:18:40.360" Score="1" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought a Nishiki Hyper pro which features the hydraulic &lt;strong&gt;Shimano SLX L675&lt;/strong&gt; brake system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've found is that the pads on the back wheel breaks appear to be in constant light contact with the disk. The wheel turns with no effort what so ever on the front wheel, but on the back wheel you both see and hear that it's a constant contact between the disk and the pad(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if, and if so, how I adjust this? I've Googled and looked around but don't seem to find the correct info I'm after unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw1M3VAfJAdzQk5YWVRKY2NsSzQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw1M3VAfJAdzQk5YWVRKY2NsSzQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lever:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bw1M3VAfJAdzXzlRMEVrX1R2OXc/view?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bw1M3VAfJAdzXzlRMEVrX1R2OXc/view?usp=sharing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20309" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T23:09:41.870" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T02:21:51.087" Title="Pads in contact with disk when idle on my SLX L675 disk brakes" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31703" CreationDate="2015-07-05T18:33:48.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;34/50 is a standard combination, so 34/48 should work without problems. Friction shifters just make it easier to overshift and trim on the fly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T18:33:48.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T20:12:10.470" Score="2" ViewCount="2739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a vintage Schwinn Traveler made approximately 1985. I have been trying to learn more about the bike through the serial number and head badge.  However I can't seem to find difinitive information.  I located the serial number:  SC507898, but the two letters at the beginning don't match any date code listed on any of the sites the last serial numbers and how to decode them. The head badge also has a number on it: 1025 which would put it as made the 102nd day of either 1975 or 1985. This confuses me though because the head badge days Chicago, but I thought I read somewhere that the Chicago factory was closed in 1982.  The bike is a Schwinn Traveler.  Given all this information, can someone help me find out exactly the year the bike was made? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20308" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T11:24:36.507" Title="Serial number &amp; Head badge issues" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T20:41:25.437" Score="1" ViewCount="903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a decent racing bike for my next triathlon (on the cheap). I saw this bike on Craigslist with no information about the model or features. Can anyone help me figure out what bike this is and how much it is worth?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fwhol.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20314" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T22:33:34.297" Title="What model is this Bottecchia bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31855" CreationDate="2015-07-05T22:39:13.923" Score="3" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought &quot;powder coated&quot; nipples for a new build to match a frame. It's for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/wolverine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SOMA Wolverine&lt;/a&gt; and the wheels were to be black spoke &amp;amp; rim with orange nipples - all the other non-orange parts are black so I'm looking to complete the overall effect. The color is a good match. However the &quot;powder coating&quot; comes off as easily as dried acrylic house paint from chrome. With normal use of a spoke wrench (for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/master-spoke-wrench-sw-22-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool SW-22.2&lt;/a&gt;) the coating is peeling away as soon as the wrench is removed, around the holes in the rim it's a similar story even though the heads and threads of the nipples are lubricated. Part of the problem is that the &quot;powder coating&quot; is very thick on some nipples, thin enough not to affect the fit of the wrench on others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The story from the seller - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newsonsportec.com/nipples-bicy-brass.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Newson Sportec&lt;/a&gt; (select &quot;PC Orange&quot; if you want to see a nipple photo) - is that these nipples can only be tightened from the rear, i.e. by screwdriver. Of course that information only comes after lacing up the wheel and finding that the paint is falling off, turning what should have been a perfect new wheel into a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're an experienced wheel builder, have you ever build a wheel without a spoke wrench, do you think it is possible to build a correctly tensioned wheel using only the slot? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is spoke rotation would be far harder to observe and with the wheel in a rotating truing stand it would be almost impossible to keep the driver engaged with the slot. And then the spokes would have to be exactly the right length or else they would protrude from the back of the spoke, disengaging the driver - as a Nipple Driver (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/nipple-driver-nd-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Park Tool ND-1&lt;/a&gt;) is designed to be disengaged. Or be too short and not grab enough thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't built a wheel - ever come across &quot;powder coating&quot; soft as butter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: Part of the problem might be that the brass nipples have been plated in what looks like chrome before the &quot;powder coating&quot; was applied. I suspect plain brass, even without any preparation of the surface, would have been a much better base for the color. Anyway they are removed and binned now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/woVFc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastEditorUserId="1914" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T00:09:34.067" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T00:09:34.067" Title="Wheel building - ever encountered nipples that are screwdriver-only?" Tags="&lt;tools&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;nipples&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T23:29:51.980" Score="3" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;After numerous attempts to ride my cruiser bike without falling, I have ordered a set of &quot;training wheels&quot; for my bike.  Yes, I took the pedals off and practiced on grass and all that, but just could not get the hang of it.  The very last time I had training wheels on a bike, I was 7 years old, so this was not an easy decision for me. I am 59.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this: How will I be able to tell when I no longer need the training wheels?  When I was a kid, the training wheels actually lifted off the ground after awhile, indicating that I wasn't even dependent on them (so my parents took them off).  I became quite proficient at riding and hope to be again, so this is important to me.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please do not write in and tell me not to install the wheels - I agonized over this so long, and am only doing it as a last resort.  Please just advise based on the assumption that these wheels are going on the bike.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20315" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T21:25:43.687" Title="&quot;Training Wheels&quot; for Starters" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T00:30:52.697" Score="2" ViewCount="1452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road-biased hybrid that came with a compact 110mm BCD 50/34 Shimano Sora crankset and chainrings. I'd like to upgrade the inner ring to 39, but I'm having some trouble figuring out what to buy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially picked up a Vuelta 39T &quot;flat&quot; model, but I can't get a clean shift from 50 to 39; the chain slides into the space between the rings, then floats on top of the cogs in the bottom ring, before finally meshing. This occurs when I'm at around 20T or smaller in the rear, regardless of how I've adjusted the front derailleur. The stock 34T Shimano chainring seats immediately. Somehow the Vuelta cogs never seem to line up properly when the chain comes down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to replace both chainrings? Or do I need a Shimano model of the 39T? If so, from what generation (e.g., would a from chainring designed for an 11-speed chain still work with this 9-speed Sora?)? Shimano's compatibility chart seems not terribly helpful for this one. My current plan is to upgrade the whole crankset to a 105 5800, but I'd rather not if I don't have to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20316" LastEditorUserId="20316" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T02:34:49.093" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T02:34:49.093" Title="Upgrading from 50/34 to 50/39 with Shimano Sora?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31729" CreationDate="2015-07-06T02:21:51.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the rear brake lever has spongy feel to it or longer throw? If not, you might want to manually rectract the caliper pistons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the wheel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove brake pads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use something with flat non-sharp surface to slightly push both pistons (two white ceramic cylinders behind pads) inside caliper body. I usually use an allen key long arm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assemble everything back in reverse order and try it out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it didn't help and pads are still too close, it can be the case of too much mineral oil in the system. I had the similar issue when I overbled M615 brakes. In this case you'll need to open bleeding port (black bolt to the left of &quot;SLX&quot; print on lever from second photo) prior to step 3 and wrap with some cloth to catch extra mineral oil. After you're done pushing the pistons, screw the bolt back in and try the brake again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, keep disc rotor and pads away from mineral oil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T02:21:51.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3981" CreationDate="2015-07-06T04:35:22.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been having a similar problem of ghost shifting on my full suspension mountain bike. This first started after breaking my chain on a ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I replaced the chain, I also decided to replace my rear derailleur cables and their sleeves.  After noticing the symptoms I ended up replacing the rear cassette based on advice from a bike shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following that with no luck, it became very frustrating and I started to think about the exact circumstances when it would ghost shift:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only when on the bike, and not while on the tuning stand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only after putting a big load on the peddles or when going over a big bump. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it dawned on me that perhaps it was connected the movement of the rear suspension on the bike.&#xA;I looked at the derailleur cable sleeve that runs underneath the bike and noticed that when I was standing on the bike, the sleeve which normally has some slack, gets tight against the frame due to the travel of the rear suspension while weighted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I replaced the cable sleeve with a new segment with an additional 1&quot; of length.  After this, the sleeve no longer pinches against the frame, and the ghost shifting problem has gone away!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time for a beer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20319" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T04:54:59.850" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T04:54:59.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31399" CreationDate="2015-07-06T04:46:07.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I went ahead and ordered some Shimano 105 dual pivot calipers. Unfortunately the rear caliper arms will not clear the seat stays. There's just no fixing it as far as I can tell. If I put on additional washers, the fixing nut will not thread onto the main mounting bolt far enough. I tried several sizes of fixing nuts and none of them will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that I will be able to find some other brakes calipers that will work. If you know of any, please let me know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;***Update: I solved the problem by ordering a SRAM Force brake caliper set. Those calipers have a lot more clearance between their arms and the frame, and the bike shop filed down the main fixing nut so it will fit inside the rear brake bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20068" LastEditorUserId="20068" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T04:51:01.990" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T04:51:01.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14332" CreationDate="2015-07-06T06:34:47.580" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smaller components need much finer machines (higher cost) to manufacture.  When precision scales up, so does cost of manufacture.  Larger items are easier to manufacture. When it comes to performance, apart from materials, there is often a large cost associated with the type of manufacturing process involved.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20321" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T20:48:00.987" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T20:48:00.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31737" CreationDate="2015-07-06T07:28:23.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It looks like the flat series is for single speed or old style 5 or 6 speed non indexed shifting bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggest you need the SE Plus range &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings/se-plus-chainrings.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings/se-plus-chainrings.html&lt;/a&gt; which is designed for 7 to 9 speed. It should be narrower than what you have, which may be why the chain is fouling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T07:28:23.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31856" CreationDate="2015-07-06T11:48:14.703" Score="3" ViewCount="65792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own this bike : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/ridgeback/speed-2012-hybrid-bike-ec032052&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;speed 2012 ridgeback&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires are worn out and I have decided to buy schwalbe marathon plus (since I often had flat tire due to broken glass on bicycle paths in my town)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original tires are Continental Contact &lt;strong&gt;700×37c&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which size of the schwalbe should I choose :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;37-622 28x1.40, &lt;strong&gt;700x35C&lt;/strong&gt; SmartGuard, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40-622 28x1.50, &lt;strong&gt;700x38C&lt;/strong&gt; SmartGuard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the sizes on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbe.com/en/catalogesflyer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the schwalbe Bike Catalogue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20326" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T20:45:56.813" Title="Tire size compatibility, 700x35c or 700x38c for original size 700x37c" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T15:01:27.663" Score="0" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a screw on the back of my Ultegra (circa 2000) shifters that holds the down shifting (on the right side) inner lever, to the up shifting outer/longer lever. I've long struggled with it loosening, but last week it fell out during a bumpy ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble describing it, let alone finding a replacement screw. What size is that screw and what should I call it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bjFrb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screw on back of Ultegra shifter&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20330" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T16:34:02.653" Title="What Size Screw Holds the Up and Down Shifting Levers on Ultegra Shifter?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31748" CreationDate="2015-07-06T16:34:02.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surest way: Measure the screw on the other shifter and get a replacement at any place which sells screws. Use screw glue if you already know the screw comes loose easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T16:34:02.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31736" CreationDate="2015-07-06T16:44:22.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Please do not write in and tell me not to install the wheels - I agonized over this so long, and am only doing it as a last resort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you don’t want to hear this, but at least for children there has been a trend in recent years to skip training wheels completly. It just leads to children trusting in them and never learning to balance. Where did you find strong enough training wheels for a grown adult anyways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like Daniel R Hicks in the comments I suspect the bicycle for being at least partly responsible. I’ve never ridden one of those cruiser bicycles myself but the seating position generally looks horrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can’t you borrow a more normal bicycle, adjust the saddle height (hiiiigh!) and ask someone to assist you i.e. keep you steady so you can reach speed? (it’s much easier to balance a moving bicycle)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastEditorUserId="19529" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T19:15:54.200" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T19:15:54.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T21:38:22.720" Score="0" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a kona Dr dew which is technically a hybrid. More road bike than mountain. I've only had this bike less than a year but I really like the look of it but I want to install drop handlebars. I understand this will also mean I will need to change the brakes and shifters. Anyone know a good reasonably priced set up I could use? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the spec of the bike &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FRAME MATERIAL  Kona 6061 Aluminum Butted&#xA;SIZES   46, 49, 53, 56, 59, 61cm&#xA;REAR SHOCK  n/a&#xA;FORK    Kona Project Two Aluminum&#xA;CRANKARMS   SRAM Via Centro&#xA;CHAINRINGS  32/48t&#xA;B/B SRAM Powerspline&#xA;PEDALS  VP 198&#xA;CHAIN   SRAM PC1031&#xA;FREEWHEEL   SRAM PG1030 11-36t 10 spd&#xA;CHAINGUIDE  n/a&#xA;F/D SRAM Via Centro&#xA;R/D SRAM Via Centro&#xA;SHIFTERS    SRAM Via Centro&#xA;BRAKE CALIPERS  Shimano M446 Hydraulic&#xA;FRONT BRAKE ROTOR   Shimano 160mm&#xA;REAR BRAKE ROTOR    Shimano 160mm&#xA;BRAKE LEVERS    Shimano M446 Hydraulic&#xA;HEADSET TH ZST No.10&#xA;HANDLEBAR   Kona Deluxe Energy&#xA;STEM    Kona Commuter&#xA;SEATPOST    Kona Double Clamp w/offset&#xA;SEAT CLAMP  Kona Clamp&#xA;GRIPS   Velo Ergo&#xA;SADDLE  Freedom Aon&#xA;FRONT HUB   Formula&#xA;REAR HUB    Shimano M475&#xA;SPOKES  Sandvik Stainless 15g fr / 14g rr&#xA;RIMS    Freedom Ryder 21&#xA;FRONT TIRE  Continental CityRide 700x32c&#xA;REAR TIRE   Continental CityRide 700x32c&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20336" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T23:13:43.873" Title="Kona Dr dew - drop handlebars" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-07-08T17:54:16.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31734" CreationDate="2015-07-06T22:09:41.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bottecchia are an Italian brand who sell everything from BMX bikes to professional racing bikes. Here in the US the brand is probably best known for being ridden by Greg LeMond in his historic 1989 Tour de France win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say the exact model of this bike. It's a low end model from the 1970s &quot;bike boom&quot;. The crankset appears to be a Nervar cottered steel unit. The shifters and derailleurs look like low end Huret models. Both are typical of early 70s bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your budget you could almost certainly do better than this. Bikes have made tremendous gains since the late 80s. Not only have they gotten lighter but they've also become more reliable. I would look for something more recent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T22:09:41.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31752" CreationDate="2015-07-06T23:13:43.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;About two years ago I converted my 2011 Dew to drop bars. I opted for Avid BB7 &#xA;Road mechanical disc brakes as they are compatible with short pull road brake levers. For shifters I chose to use bar ends because of their lower price and more simple design compared to STI levers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up with a cost of about $325 for my 8 speed bar end shifters, Cane Creek short pull road levers, Avid BB7 Disc brakes, Salsa Cowbell 3 handlebars, and bar tape. I would expect to pay that much for the shifters alone if you opt for STI shifters as opposed to bar ends (the economical choice). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T23:13:43.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31612" CreationDate="2015-07-07T00:00:05.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is probably the combination of standing up and high cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that when you say acceleration you mean hard and short burst of effort. The maximum power in that short period of time will be produced by the fast twitch muscle fibres type, (i.e. when you stand up, low cadence). This type of fibres work anaerobically so you can only sustain it for very short time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to accelerate longer than what the anaerobic system can provide then you will need to switch to aerobic using the slow twitch muscle, i.e. high cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you measure and find that high cadence is faster, it could also probably mean that you haven't train your anaerobic system enough to get the expected results. That's why sprinters have huge thighs, they go to gym for resistance training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a table with muscle characteristics here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skeletal_striated_muscle#Fiber_typing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fiber typing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3042" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T00:00:05.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-07T01:00:22.737" Score="4" ViewCount="1509" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened today in L.A. county in los angeles (just outside culver city). I was walking my bicycle down the sidewalk on the left side of the road, saw the green light and white pedestrian icon. I hopped on, and proceeded to bike down the crosswalk slowly. A man was stopped at the red light looking left for about five seconds. I assumed he was waiting since he probably saw the pedestrians behind me and the white light. He turned right without looking right and collided with me. My bike slammed against the road, and my leg twisted a bit. I had some scrapes and scratches but I didn't land on my head. I got his information and a couple of people saw it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He apologized, and admitted that he didn't look before turning on red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read online that it's illegal to cycle through a crosswalk at an intersection, and that it also wasn't illegal. (so which is it?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike has some damages and i want to get my foot checked out, but what is exactly is the law in this case? I was walking and then once it was green with the pedestrian icon, i hopped on and cycled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20339" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T23:02:36.380" Title="Hit by a vehicle at a crosswalk" Tags="&lt;accidents&gt;&lt;california&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31763" CreationDate="2015-07-07T02:18:55.530" Score="12" ViewCount="6086" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the device behind the saddle on all the riders' bikes in the 2015 tour? I'm seeing it on almost every bike. It looks standardized and electronic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/11iBC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T21:10:06.130" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T21:10:06.130" Title="What is this device on all the Tour de France riders' bikes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;&lt;tour-de-france&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-07T03:07:44.000" Score="0" ViewCount="796" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a strange creaking that sometimes occurs when I just started to pedal from stop. And strangely, it only happens when I use the smallest front chainring and smallest rear cog. The creak doesn't happen each revolution, only when pedalled hard or from the start. What causes this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20239" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T17:20:35.293" Title="Creaking in rear wheel" Tags="&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31756" CreationDate="2015-07-07T03:43:57.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the specific laws in CA for &lt;strong&gt;riding in a crosswalk&lt;/strong&gt;, but here in AZ (both CA and AZ are in the USA) it is actually ambiguous. While on a bicycle, you become &lt;em&gt;not a pedestrian&lt;/em&gt;, which in AZ means that you aren't afforded the legal protections of a pedestrian, which means that in cases like yours there is no legal recourse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;riding a bicycle on a sidewalk&lt;/strong&gt; here in AZ is illegal, and for good reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Section 275 of the CA motor vehicle code&lt;/strong&gt; states that the crosswalk is an extension of the sidewalk, so if riding on the sidewalk is legal where you live, then you had the right of way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking around, it appears that CA has a hodge podge of local ordinances pertaining to the legality of riding on the sidewalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Culver city ordinance &lt;em&gt;§7.04.250  RIDING ON SIDEWALKS.&lt;/em&gt; states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A.   No person shall ride a bicycle upon a sidewalk within any&#xA;  business district or upon the sidewalk adjacent to any public school&#xA;  building, church, recreation center or playground or upon a walkway&#xA;  specifically designated by resolution of the City Council as closed to&#xA;  all vehicular or bicycle traffic. B.   Whenever any person is riding a&#xA;  bicycle upon a sidewalk such person shall yield the right-of-way to&#xA;  any pedestrian and when overtaking and passing a pedestrian, after&#xA;  giving an audible signal, shall at all times pass to the left of such&#xA;  pedestrian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;while the ordinance for LA county, &lt;em&gt;§15.76.080 Driving or riding vehicles on sidewalk.&lt;/em&gt; states &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A person shall not operate any bicycle or any vehicle or ride any&#xA;  animal on any sidewalk or parkway except at a permanent or temporary&#xA;  driveway or at specific locations thereon where the commissioner finds&#xA;  that such locations are suitable for, and has placed appropriate signs&#xA;  and/or markings permitting such operation or riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and for the City of Los Angeles &lt;em&gt;SEC. 56.15.  BICYCLE RIDING – SIDEWALKS.&lt;/em&gt; states &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No person shall ride, operate or use a bicycle, unicycle, skateboard, cart, wagon, wheelchair, rollerskates, or any other device&#xA;  moved exclusively by human power, on a sidewalk, bikeway or boardwalk&#xA;  in a willful or wanton disregard for the safety of persons or&#xA;  property.  (Amended by Ord. No. 166,189, Eff. 10/7/90.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No person shall ride, operate or use a bicycle or unicycle on Ocean Front Walk between Marine Street and Via Marina within the City&#xA;  of Los Angeles, except that bicycle or unicycle riding shall be&#xA;  permitted along the bicycle path adjacent to Ocean Front Walk between&#xA;  Marine Street and Washington Boulevard. (Amended by Ord. No. 153,474,&#xA;  Eff. 4/12/80.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No person shall operate on a beach bicycle path, or on an area of a beach which is set aside for bicycle or unicycle use, any bicycle&#xA;  or tricycle which provides for side-by-side seating thereon or which&#xA;  has affixed thereto any attachment or appendage which protrudes from&#xA;  the side of the bicycle or tricycle and is used or designed to carry&#xA;  another person or persons thereon.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of this section motorized bicycles as defined by Section 406 of the California Vehicle Code shall be included within&#xA;  the terms “motor vehicle” as defined in Section 415 of the Vehicle&#xA;  Code and as used in Section 21663 of the Vehicle Code.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it appears that it depends...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20051" LastEditorUserId="20051" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T23:02:36.380" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T23:02:36.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-07T06:10:48.323" Score="0" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have changed my tires to road and crank set to 48 teeth. The question is with all my current parts is there a way I can buy a road bike frame and transfer everything on to the road bike frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My MTB is running disk brakes, not a V-brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20342" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T07:33:37.333" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T07:17:09.980" Title="Swap MTB parts to road bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31757" CreationDate="2015-07-07T06:11:47.593" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a special device that gathers the following data, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/article/big-data-comes-to-the-tour-de-france-44682/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the stage winner’s top speed, average speed and time per kilometer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the fastest riders up key climbs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the speed of the winner at the finish line&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the top speed achieved by a rider on the day&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;average speed across all riders&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2017-07-13T20:15:32.467" LastActivityDate="2017-07-13T20:15:32.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15930" CreationDate="2015-07-07T06:58:47.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T7g3d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cable Connectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used these cable connectors before...you just break one off and screw it over the cable end. They work great and look pretty &quot;impressive&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20344" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T06:58:47.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31762" CreationDate="2015-07-07T06:59:47.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its almost always more cost effective to sell the existing bike and use the funds to buy a (used) bike you want. Its worth doing it from the perspective of learning about bikes, owning a unique piece of art/engineering &quot;franken bike&quot; or just a cool way to kill some spare time. Doing it because you want a road bike and only have a MTB is the wrong reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Little things like wrong length cables and chains, incompatibly betwen bottom brackets (chain line problems) can quickly add up to a lot of $$$. If you want drop bars you need road shifters that are not compatible with MTB derailleurs meaning some big ticket items. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T06:59:47.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31757" CreationDate="2015-07-07T07:40:42.530" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are GPS trackers with a wireless data connection, GSM or EDGE would be enough for the data rate, but it might be something faster. The company supplying them is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dimensiondata.com/tourdefrance&quot;&gt;Dimension Data&lt;/a&gt; you can sign up for a free data report at the end of each stage &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dimensiondata.com/Global/Global-Events/Tour-de-France-Daily-Wrap/Pages/Registration.aspx&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T07:40:42.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31762" CreationDate="2015-07-07T07:52:06.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the wheel size? If it's 700c, then you can get disc road/CX/gravel frame. Do mind type of bottom bracket, hub widths and seatpost diameter, though. You can fit MTB shifters and brake levers to a drop bar, but that would look funky, so probably flat bar only. For proper fit, stem might require replacement too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9215" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T07:52:06.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31775" CreationDate="2015-07-07T08:14:50.990" Score="2" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fitted a pannier rack to my bike and the placement of it caused the rear derailluer cable and housing to be pushed outwards slightly, increasing the tension in the cable, I guess. The derailleur will move between 7 of 8 gears however the cable is now too taught to get the derailleur moving to the biggest gear. It is also tough to get the derailleur moving between gears without skipping them. I've tried replacing the gear cable only. The cable housing has remained the same length. Would increasing the cable housing length help or is this simply a case of the pannier being incompatible with my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20345" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T14:21:07.250" Title="Pannier rack restricting dérailleur movements" Tags="&lt;rack&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31771" CreationDate="2015-07-07T09:29:05.383" Score="7" ViewCount="9535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a pair of inner tubes and when I partially inflated one of them before putting it into the tire (only a few pumps with a floor pump), I noticed a portion of it was bulging out considerably. It looked like a snake who had swallowed a giant mouse, there was a huge bulge on one section of the tire. I went to get my camera to take a photo of it, but it then burst before I could take a photo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Went back to the LBS and got a replacement tube, and when I partially inflate this one it also bulges quite a bit too, although not nearly as extreme as the last one that popped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for an inner tube to bulge out as much as this? I'm just worried this one will pop as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F07YY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18835" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T11:14:53.657" Title="Is it normal for an Inner tube to bulge when inflated?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31770" CreationDate="2015-07-07T10:06:14.510" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, inner tubes do that. They are like balloons, except that the butyl rubber they are made of doesn't stretch like natural latex rubber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are not supposed to inflate tubes outside a tire. Tires have fabric casing to withstand the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T10:06:14.510" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-07T11:09:49.397" Score="0" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought my wife an awesome &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merida-bikes.com/en_int/bikes/hardtails/lady/2014/juliet-20-md-304.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Merida Juliet&lt;/a&gt;.  But our (existing) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hamax.com/child-bike-seat/classic-collection/siesta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hamax bike seat&lt;/a&gt; doesn't fit over the tire when mounted to the frame (just touches the back wheel) and mounted on the seat post the metal rods go over the saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a hack or some kind of adapter that will let detachable bike seats fit on &quot;compact&quot; bike frames?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="953" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T11:09:49.397" Title="Extender for HAMAX child-bike-seat?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31353" CreationDate="2015-07-07T13:17:08.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buy a very loud alarm and, if the person ahead is wearing headphones, blip it as you approach.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note : such items can be purchased at Maplin stores in the UK &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maplin.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.maplin.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT in response to Andy's feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original question is essentially flawed. It seems to ask &quot;How can I attract someone's attention when they can't see, feel or hear me?&quot;. The answer is &quot;You can't&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that, by definition, they are facing away from you and physical touch is excluded, the only recourse is to make a sufficiently loud sound so that they can hear it over the distraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I deleted my facetious answer about using a long stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20350" LastEditorUserId="20350" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T11:26:22.377" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T11:26:22.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31769" CreationDate="2015-07-07T14:21:07.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would concur that the solution here is to increase the length of the cable housing that is inferring with the rack. If the rack is putting any pressure on the cable housing, then it will interfere with the ability of the derailleur to shift properly. Depending on how much free cable is left over coming out of the derailleur, You will most likely need to also replace the cable with a new one that is longer.  But this shouldn't cost any more than $10~$20 from the local bike mechanic at the back of your favorite bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20320" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T14:21:07.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31759" CreationDate="2015-07-07T14:28:33.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This type of cross gear configuration is frowned upon for normal riding. Mostly likely the creaking is caused by the extra stress caused by the chain putting stress on one side of the gears and chain. Lubing the chain and re-greasing the rear axle (if it is not sealed) could also help, as this creaking may be symptomatic that they are lacking. But the real take-away here is to avoid this type of gearing combination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20320" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T14:28:33.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31756" CreationDate="2015-07-07T14:37:22.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think some clarification may be required here. The question looks like it pertains to a crosswalk, not a sidewalk. &#xA;In the crosswalk I believe the bicyclists has the right-of-way. If the light was green for the crosswalk, then the burden is on the motorists to yield to you.  This presumes you didn't pop into the crosswalk on the bike with some type of speed, surprising the motorist.&#xA;But in general in such situations I try to make eye contact with the motorist before crossing, as this has almost happened to me as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20320" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T14:37:22.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31719" CreationDate="2015-07-07T14:48:27.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't specify how long is your ride. But if half the route is off-road, then I would suggest a hard-tailed mountain bike with a triple front chain ring. The mountain bike will typically be geared lower than a road bike, and thus be easier for the hill climbs, while also having better agility in the dirt. The alternative is to get a hybrid with a bit wider tires (i.e. 700x35).&#xA;Given you don't have a shower, I still presume you have bathroom or office you can change in. Dress for the second 15 minutes of the ride, and bring your work clothes in backpack, and bring a small towel to dry yourself. After getting to work, cool off first for about 10 minutes before changing. Baby wipes can also help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20320" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T14:48:27.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31684" CreationDate="2015-07-07T14:59:09.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It wasn't clear to me about &quot;work floor miles&quot;, but you shouldn't be doing any general walking around in bike shoes for any significant distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep some regular shoes at work for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about during bike use, then I would consider getting a bike shoe with a more rigid base. Ones with carbon soles (if you can afford them) solved a problem I was having with tenderness at the ball of my foot.  Having the right bike shoes can be well worth the investment of about $150. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have gravitated toward mountain bike shoes with SPD pedals on all my bikes to simplify the situation and to make it easier for walking around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20320" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T01:51:49.910" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T01:51:49.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31684" CreationDate="2015-07-07T15:41:52.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Specialized Cadets are OK for a full day of walking and sitting, though I don't make a habit of it, instead I keep shoes under my desk.  I'm also used to wearing hiking boots with stiff soles so that makes them feel less unfamiliar.  The discussion under &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/30450/7309&quot;&gt;my related question&lt;/a&gt; may also be of interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably link to the exact shoes you've got -- at the moment it's not even clear what type of cleats you mean. If they're generously sized (which they shouldn't be) you may have room for a layer of something thin-but-stiff under the original liner or some sort of insole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T15:41:52.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30473" CreationDate="2015-07-07T16:29:59.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turbulent times for Motobecane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find the (last that I have found) French Motobecane for 1985-6 (dated Sept. 85) on &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.tontonvelo.com/viewtopic.php?p=54681%20English%201985:%20www.equusbicycle.com/bike/motobecane/catalog85/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;forum.tontonvelo.com&quot;&gt;forum.tontonvelo.com&lt;/a&gt;  (with the French model designations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, no Trainer in them and there are not many models listed - MBK/Motobecane was producing many other models many with older tube types from the past (decals similar to Peugoet - later with red/orange/yellow colors) during 85-6. The Motobecane name appears to have been dropped late 1986 the same year Yamaha became the main shareholder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect your Trainer is one of the earlier ones possibly late 85/early 86, the later &quot;Trainers&quot; I've seen have either a &quot;Reseau Motobecane&quot; badge on the steerer tube or &quot;MBK Motobecane&quot; on the down tube. If you check the components and the serial numbers with data on the web, you should be able to get a good idea. I stumbled on a few sources out there on the Motobecane/MBK Trainer when searching for info on another bike of that period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently got caught up into this period as well due to a Motobecane &quot;Ranger&quot; (no MBK on the frame) from the same period, picked it up for the missing Espace bars on a 1984 Mt. Becane. Oddly and apprently the MBK label had already been used for the &quot;Mt. Becane&quot; in 85 (MBK model=Ranger) with the same specs as the '84 Motobecane (with the platform tandem fork and Espace handlebars through 86), the same time Motobecane Ranger was made with a different frame and unicorn fork. The later 1987 MBK Ranger model looks the same as the earlier Motobecane Ranger including the unicrown fork. All very odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps and good luck!&#xA;Geo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20354" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T03:02:28.353" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T03:02:28.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31719" CreationDate="2015-07-07T17:09:11.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a practical matter you really have only two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lower gearing range. This means a smaller chainring in front and bigger cogs on the rear wheel. Batman nicely outlines this in his post. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An external power source such as an electric motor. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lighter bike will NOT make a big difference. If anyone cares to argue this consider the following: The average bike at the 1982 Tour de France weighed ~21 pounds. The average bike at the 2012 Tour de France weighed just over 15 pounds. That's a more than 25% reduction in weight. Despite this drop in weight (and MANY other technical improvements to the bike) the average speed of the 2012 Tour was only 4% faster (and the Tour was shorter in 2012). Keep in mind this is with the fittest riders on the planet. You can cut the weight of your bike in half but you'll only net a performance increase in the single digits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dropping the range of your gears is a relatively inexpensive approach. Even if you purchased new derailleurs, chainrings and gears you'll still spend less than what it would take to buy a new bike. The downside? Well you still have to pedal. You'll be expending less effort which helps you from arriving at the office a sweaty mess but you'll also be taking even longer to get there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E-bikes are great. You can ride up all but the steepest of hills with very little effort. Riding to work without breaking a sweat is definitely a reality. I'll admit that as a road rider of 35+ years I cringed when I first saw e-bikes but then I got to borrow one for a couple of weeks. It's a game changer, pure and simple. My commute home involves a gradual, mile long climb. Most days I get home I'm pretty sweaty and tired when I get home. On the e-bike I completed the same ride in less time and never broke a sweat. I've also seen moms pedaling uphill on cargo bikes carrying two children without breaking a sweat AND they're keeping up with solo riders on conventional bikes! The other area where e-bikes are pretty awesome is stop and go traffic. Getting back up to cruising speed with a push from the motor is less taxing than relying on pedal power alone. On downhills and flats the e-bike makes little difference as the motors essentially top out at 20mph. The motors on e-bikes are really intended more as a supplement to pedal power, not a replacement. They're not electric scooters as some people seem to think (some designs won't even work unless you're pedaling). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downsides? Well the big one is cost. E-bikes currently cost several hundred dollars more than an unpowered bike. The price will come down somewhat over time but they'll likely never drop to the same price as an unpowered bike and I doubt they'll drop that much very soon because there is currently a big shortage in battery production capacity. However, look at it this way: let's say having an e-bike means you now bike to work instead of driving. That could mean reducing the amount of miles you drive by 50%. How much does half of a car cost? Probably a lot more than the price of an e-bike. Always struck me as odd that people won't think twice at dropping $20k+ on a car to drive to work but won't consider spending more than $1k to buy a bike to perform the exact same trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other downside is that while e-bikes are great for commuting and running errands they're really not a lot of fun to ride recreationally. I may buy an e-bike for commuting but it would never replace my road bike for recreational riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T17:09:11.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31785" CreationDate="2015-07-07T17:11:56.750" Score="6" ViewCount="24016" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cracked tyre on my Road bike. I think I put it in the gazebo and exposed it to the sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's cracking along the tyre wall, in continuous fashion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XDo8R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wmOG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Would it be safe to ride on those crack tyre? As they are fairly new, I don't want buy a new one if it is ok to ride, i.e. no catastrophic failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T21:35:28.200" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T15:12:24.750" Title="Is it safe to ride on cracked tyre?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;crack&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31759" CreationDate="2015-07-07T17:20:35.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What kind of frame is it? These days many frames have a replaceable derailleur hanger. The derailleur hanger is the little bit of metal that the rear derailleur bolts onto. The hanger is then in turn bolted to the frame. Often times the factory doesn't apply any grease where the hanger and frame interface. This dry interface can often result in creaking, especially when a lot of torque is applied (like when you're in a low gear). Unbolt the derailleur from the hanger and then unbolt the hanger from the frame. Apply a thin layer of grease to where the two meet and reassembly the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T17:20:35.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31783" CreationDate="2015-07-07T17:51:05.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cracks will expose the internal structure to elements. So yes, they are not going to last as long as non-cracked ones but very probably not going to explode right away either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Nokia tires that used to be popular in my country developed cracks between tread and sidewall after a few months' use and could still be ridden for years afterwards. Your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="10595" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T15:12:24.750" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T15:12:24.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31783" CreationDate="2015-07-07T17:54:16.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, if fairly new tires start to crack, they were poor quality tires to begin with. That's a red flag on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use them. Bicycles only have two tires between you and the ground, that means if your only front tire fails at speed the chances are good that you're going to end up on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a definitive image of the damage, damaged and cracked bike tires are always a simple matter of risk. If you want to risk injury, possibly severe injury if your luck is particularly bad, then keep using the tires. Otherwise, err on the side of safety and spend $40 or $50 on a new pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T17:54:16.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30473" CreationDate="2015-07-07T18:21:43.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small correction, my mistake should have read &quot; &quot;MBK Trainer&quot; on the down tube &quot; .. (but with a Motobecane Badge on the Steerer, some also with Motobecane in smaller letters on the top tube). Checked a couple of the searches I had, you truly have a confounding model. Hi-Ten, Cro-Mo, Motolite, 2040, one states Vitus tubes, but I can't read the sticker to verify it. Some with proper lugs on the steerer, some with &quot;inexternal&quot;. I wonder if they were using up stock, after many of the older established models were discontinued after 84. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fwiw, as long as you are happy with the weight and feel of the bike, nothing wrong with Hi-Ten. As long as I'm only on paved surfaces, I still enjoy loaded touring with a 76 Super Mirage with lowly 1020 tubing. The only bike I've always kept, still very comfortable at the end of long days in the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motobecane stared phasing out the Swiss BBs in the early eighties, you are lucky not to have one, tough to find and expensive, the Mirage unfortunately does. Many report good result with the BSA BBs for stripped threads. Mine was in need and was lucky and found one incorrectly listed as French on the bay, I hope I will never need another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Geo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20354" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T18:21:43.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31756" CreationDate="2015-07-07T18:50:20.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in Norcal (probably the whole California), it is illegal to cycle through pedestrian crosswalk when the go lights up. You have to get out the bike and &lt;em&gt;walk&lt;/em&gt; through the crosswalk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the truth &lt;strong&gt;because&lt;/strong&gt; one day I was at a gas station and a motorbike cop was also in the gas station surveillance the area. Then I saw a guy in the signal light crosswalk waiting the go light. When the go light went on, he got on the bike and just about to cycle through the crosswalk, the cop yelled at him saying you have to get down and &lt;em&gt;walk&lt;/em&gt; the bike. The guy couldn't heard the cop very well and he still cycled through the crosswalk. Then, the cop just drove to the scene and caught him and gave him a ticket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when the go light is on all vehicles have to yield whoever is crossing the crosswalk. The vehicles can't drive when the pedestrian is right in the middle of crosswalk. Pedestrian always have the right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20242" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T18:50:20.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31423" CreationDate="2015-07-07T19:01:12.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having spent years figuring out that I was riding bikes too big for me, I'd have to agree with commenters above about the frame size. A crappy bike that's the right size, or even a little too small, is way easier and more fun to ride than a sweet bike that's too big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in my town -- Vancouver, BC -- that's already a commuting bike. Different handlebars would be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20361" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T19:01:12.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31792" CreationDate="2015-07-07T22:29:34.777" Score="1" ViewCount="1755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make the most of this feature, and use it for navigation on pre-planned courses. I have used it two times now, and the experience was much different. The first time everything was ok, sometimes marked me off course briefly while I was riding on course but nothing terrible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second time, it was way off. It would show me on different location compared to the route very often. Very often the view was zoomed out too far, and it was not clear where the turns are as everything was smashed together. I am not sure what caused this difference in experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What steps do I need to take to make most of the courses feature?&#xA;Is there a way to avoid manually adding waypoints to turns, so that I can get turn directions? If not, what are the most reliable tools for creating routes with waypoints ? Any tips for these tools ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I saw mentions of manually setting the zoom level on the course, but no clear description of how to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19410" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T23:33:18.880" Title="Making the most of Edge 500 courses" Tags="&lt;bike-computer&gt;&lt;garmin&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31791" CreationDate="2015-07-07T23:33:18.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had the same mixed results using the Edge 500 for courses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you used a TCX file for the first course, giving you a better auto-zoom level and accuracy, and maybe a GPX file on the second course, resulting in less accurate performance. Sometimes though, it seems the little 500 just doesn't have the accuracy of other models and strays off course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To adjust the zoom level, page over to the map/course layout and press the power/light button. You'll see the zoom level is probably set to auto. Just use the up/down arrows to adjust the zoom level and hit enter when you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generating TCX files with ridewithgps.com seems to be the most popular way to chart a course and add cues and turns. Most popular routes already exist if you search for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, the newer models, 510, 520, 1000, etc, seem to have a much better grasp on your location ( and liekly extra processing power to help ) and throw up an off-course false alarm much less often, even under dense tree cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T23:33:18.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31804" CreationDate="2015-07-08T03:33:16.633" Score="4" ViewCount="1320" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Daniel pointed out in the comments below, this is an unusual type of roller cam brake that is fixed to the fork using a single bolt through the fork rather than cantilever fixings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found two examples of roller cam brakes that uses a single bolt - Odyssey Bulldog and Dia Compe Big Dog - but both seem to have been discontinued for a long time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will leave this question as unanswered a little longer in case anyone know of other brands that make these brakes that are currently available&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a long reach brake that I've put on a refurbished old Chinese bike, it looks fantastic and it's a perfect fit for the old fork and new 700c wheel combo that needs about 95 mm reach&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to refurbish another old bike, but I can't seem to find this type of brake anywhere. The one that I have came from the Taiwanese stockist Ducas (www.ducas-bike.com), but they no longer have it in stock and they have not been able to help me find one somewhere else&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help identifying this type of brake or a good long reach alternative (I need at least 95 mm) would be much appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OyeTw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Long reach brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QzXuN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Long reach brake 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20357" LastEditorUserId="20357" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T13:17:59.720" LastActivityDate="2021-02-08T00:29:54.480" Title="What type of brake is this?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-08T07:10:38.957" Score="1" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an recreational cyclists and I like training, but on my last training ride I developed pain in my right buttock, I also got a bit of swelling, the area is on the back of the thigh just under my right buttock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My background as a cyclist: I ride for several years mostly in the summer season, this season I have around 160 hours over the last 4 months and around 5000 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must mention that in the same area I had saddle sores which now are solved because I am lubing the area before each ride with some sort of sports cream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect something is off with my riding position since it puts too much pressure on particular area, but it is strange as on the previous training ride I haven't felt any problem. I would like to avoid fiddling around with my saddle position as I haven't changed in the last 2 years at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what could cause this and how to manage it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7327" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T21:17:54.987" Title="Butt pain during riding" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;pain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31762" CreationDate="2015-07-08T07:17:09.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a certain degree of compatibility, but usually it comes with a big compromise, such as having to use a flat handlebar (for your MTB shifters and brakes), smaller diameter wheels (road is 28&quot;, your MTB is likely 26&quot;), lower gearing (pedaling on road is easier so gears are higher) or bigger than usual tires (because of your wide MTB rims).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time you found a road frame that supports discs and bought all the non inter-changeable components you will see it's not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really really interested in doing this you can post a few pictures of your current MTB and the kind of bike you are looking for and we can help you component by component, but trust me, you will end up getting a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T07:17:09.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31794" CreationDate="2015-07-08T07:25:32.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/maintenance/bike-fit/fine-tune-fit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If You Have: Numbness/pain from saddle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then: Position or saddle needs to be changed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some causes: Handlebar too low, causing you to rotate pelvis forward&#xA;  to reach bar. Saddle tilted too far up or down. Saddle too far back,&#xA;  so you're riding on the nose. Your saddle doesn't fit your anatomy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Possible fixes: Raise handlebar with spacers. Level your seat. Check&#xA;  saddle setback. Try a different saddle—your weight should be supported&#xA;  on your sit bones, not the soft tissue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These links might also help you, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-fit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Play with your ergonomics on the bike should make a big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If working with saddle/stem position does not help, or if even after finding your most comfortable position you're not still ok, I think you are on the market for a new saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19084" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T07:25:32.450" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-08T09:51:30.787" Score="1" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new chain/ cassette that is causing the chain to skip /jump randomly on an MTB I use for commuting and is driving me mad with the following symptoms:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can physically see the chain hop on the rear sprocket when I ride or backpedal.&#xA;This only happens in dry weather (not when raining).&#xA;It happens in any gear but is usually the same link and usually happens on a multiple of 3.5 crank turns -sometimes it can be 3 half turns in a row or not happen at all for 5 miles or more.&#xA;I commute the same 8 mile route to and from work with a moderate hill in the middle and the skipping is truly random -some days it will happen on the hill, others at the begining/ end of the route and can vary between 40 and 400 skips per outbound or return journey depending on the day (averaging at about 125 skips).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried the following without success:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain is properly lubricated (not squeaking or full of grit/ dirt).&#xA;I have tried twisting the link concerned (to iron out the stiff link -this will work for a day at most) and I have taken out the link (PLus 2 on either side) and replaced it with unused links from the original packaged chain (again this will work for a day or two and then back to the original problem). &#xA;The gears are properly indexed but this happens in any gear and gets worse when I've changed down from the big to middle front chainring (but evens out over time).&#xA;I have tried the B tension screw on the derailer at fully out/ fully in and every other position between (the skipping didn't happen on the previous chain/ chainring and cluster combination).&#xA;I have replaced the gear cables and lubricated the cable guides.&#xA;I have now been riding with this problem daily for about 4 months (in the hope that it might wear in) without success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am about to buy a new chain, chainrings and cluster in the hope that it was just a duff chain, but was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20366" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T07:21:00.580" Title="skipping on new chain/ cassette" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;skipping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31826" CreationDate="2015-07-08T10:21:56.787" Score="5" ViewCount="5647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Canyon Commuter 7.0 which uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://ixow.com/product/wheelguard-gravity/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;IXOW Wheelguard Gravity&lt;/a&gt; skewers and nut. I want to take my front wheel off but am unable to loosen the nut on the front skewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard procedure is to flip the bike upside down and then loosen the nut. This does not work. The instructions state that if the nut cannot be loosened, it should be tightened a little before loosening as doing this should release the locking mechanism. This approach worked for the nut on the seatpost clamp (which uses the same type of nut), but has not worked for the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The recommended tightness for the front wheel nut is 5-7Nm. I've already increased it to 8Nm when tightening in an attempt to loosen - it slipped at this point, so I don't want to try much more force in case I damage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried flipping the bike upside down a few times, to no avail. What else can I do to try and loosen the nut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12848" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T14:39:40.930" Title="Unable to loosen IXOW Wheelguard Gravity nut" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-08T12:19:06.880" Score="1" ViewCount="845" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pinnacle Neon 3 Hybrid, Shimano Sora 9 speed cassette and 2 chainrings at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is 2 weeks old and I've cycled around 65 miles so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain ring has come off 3 times at the front&#xA;1st time was when on the big ring at front and I selected wrong direction on the chainwheel (ie moved it outward instead of inward to smaller chainring - think I was on smallest cog at back), so I put it down to possible user error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, the chain came off inwards twice at the front when moving from the large front chain ring to the small one whilst in the large cog at the back.The chain went past the small chainring. I have read it isn't ideal to be changing like this but should it really be coming off like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My previous bike, also a Pinnacle Hybrid, had 3 chainrings and I never had 1 chain slip in 6 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll probably take it in to be checked but wondered if there's anything I can do to adjust and make it less likely before the 1st free service is due in a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is chain rub when on the largest cog and smallest chainring. Is it worth adjusting the H screw on the front derailleur to prevent the chain flying off when moving inwards as above from large to small chainring, or is it more likely due to the fact I was going from large chainring to small chainring (&quot;extreme gear&quot;) when in the smallest cog?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Martin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20368" LastEditorUserId="20368" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T12:54:36.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T13:37:01.263" Title="Chain Slip at front changing from large to small front chain wheel (with large cog at back)" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;drivetrain-slipping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31801" CreationDate="2015-07-08T13:20:02.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect to throw the chain inwards or outwards (at least on my 3x8 setup) if the limit screws are correct.  This is true whatever sprocket I'm using and even if I push the lever the wrong way (it's not unknown when I'm tired especially if I've recently been riding another bike).  That said you shouldn't be shifting like that as you acknowledge.  The tolerances are likely to be tighter with a 9 speed chain but I would say there's no harm in a light tweak of the limit screws and tension, in fact after a few 10s of miles on new cables or after other significant changes I tend to find that some adjustment is needed as things bed in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T13:20:02.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31801" CreationDate="2015-07-08T13:30:26.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have that problem with my road bike as well, Shimano sora STI shifter, claris derailleurs, 2x9 setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;make sure limit screw (L) adequately adjusted, i.e. just about to rub the chain when Small CR + Largest Cog. (so you are ok here)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;shifting in sequential manner. e.g. 2-9 then 2-8, 2-7 ... 2-5 (or 2-4); at this point, shift to 1-5 (or 1-4) while pedalling lightly for smooth transition&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason behind this, also demonstrated in two of your case is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from 2-9 to 1-9 for example, the tension on the chain is not enough, making the chain swing off freely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from 2-1 to 1-1, the chain was crossed inward, together with chain tension, pulling the chain inward and off the small chainring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T13:37:01.263" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T13:37:01.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31793" CreationDate="2015-07-08T13:52:20.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated by Daniel R Hicks, these are &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_brake#Roller_cam_brakes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;roller cam brakes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; sells a few extra long reach brakes: the Odyssey 1999 Extra Long Reach Caliper Brake and the Action© Extra Long Reach Caliper Brake. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tektro-Caliper-Brake-for-Beach-Cruiser-26in-Wheel-Rear-79-99mm-Reach/32292796&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tektro&lt;/a&gt; C-326 seems to have adequate reach, but the problem is since its designed for beach cruisers, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kurtkaminer.com/th_tektro_c326.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rims have to be quite wide&lt;/a&gt;. I don't know if the other brakes listed have this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A relatively easy solution is a drop bolt, which is a device which allows you to mount a brake lower than the frame is designed to. You can make a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/home-drop.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;drop bolt&lt;/a&gt; and use a regular reach brake instead of hunting down a 100 mm reach brake. These are reasonably common with the Raleigh Twenty crowd, for example. In the picture below from Sheldon Brown, he has a Raleigh Twenty with a short reach caliper!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/agJYX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Image from Sheldon Brown)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is a hack, so its YMMV/at your own risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A real drop bolt looks like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DMyzF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T13:52:20.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31807" CreationDate="2015-07-08T14:22:19.380" Score="4" ViewCount="1292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was servicing my Shimano adjustable bottom bracket and forgot which way the spindle was originally oriented.  Without measuring in detail, how do I correctly orient the spindle (so that the correct side is on the drive side)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15722" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T00:40:01.517" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T20:35:13.027" Title="Orienting Shimano Cup and Cone square-taper bottom bracket spindle" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31191" CreationDate="2015-07-08T14:24:24.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacing the axle has worked, but the new axle takes un-keyed washers.  It's much harder to adjust pre-load correctly between the cone, washers, locknut, and quick-release.  Bikeforums.net suggest these hubs are garbage, so I am looking into building a new wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15722" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T14:24:24.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31805" CreationDate="2015-07-08T14:42:49.783" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One side of the spindle is a little longer than the other one. The longer side is the drive side. There may be spindles that have arms that are the same length, but I'm not aware of any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T00:21:49.017" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T00:21:49.017" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31736" CreationDate="2015-07-08T14:47:36.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This probably sounds completely non-helpful, but you'll know you don't need the training wheels when you're no longer using the training wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you're probably tired of the non-helpful &quot;don't use training wheels&quot; as well... here's the problem with training wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any two wheel, in-line vehicle (i.e., bicycle, motorcycle) is balanced and steered by countersteering*; the operator controls balance and direction by turning the front wheel the direction it's falling over, or to turn, away from the desired path of travel to force it to lean in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any vehicle with more than two points of contact with the ground (bus, car, motorcycle with sidecar, bicycle with training wheels), doesn't; direction is controlled &quot;normally&quot; by pointing the front wheel(s) where you want to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes training wheels- at the surface a good idea- problematic, as your motor system is trying to learn two different sets of skills. At best, you've converted your bicycle into a quadcycle. At worst where they don't touch the ground all the time, sometimes it's a tricycle, sometimes it's not, and you're forcing your brain to switch modes rapidly, making it harder to learn, not easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a video on YouTube channel &quot;Smarter Every Day&quot; with a backward steering bicycle; maybe you've seen them at a fair or carnival. The steering is geared so turning the bars right make the wheel turn left. It is very difficult to learn how to ride, because you have to retrain your motor skills. Should you watch it, note at 1:02 to 1:05, when he attempts to ride it- the bike starts falling to rider's left, and he tries to steer the front tire back under it- causing it to fall faster. Later he tries to ride a normal bicycle, and can't at first; his brain has to switch modes. This is what you're doing to yourself by wanting to use training wheels. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFzDaBzBlL0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Smarter Every Day, Backwards Bicycle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The mechanics of which are beyond the scope, etc; for this article, let's run with the belief in magic. Or, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C848R9xWrjc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Countsteering 101&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20369" LastEditorUserId="20369" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T21:25:43.687" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T21:25:43.687" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31810" CreationDate="2015-07-08T15:02:52.177" Score="1" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I snagged the wire on my Cateye Mity 8 computer on the rack the other day and broke it mid wire.  I'm going to fix it by splicing them back together.  I'm worried about effects of getting the wires crossed.  I'm going to take some care not to cross them, but if I do, will it cause problems?  What readings should I get from it with a multi-meter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T20:04:55.730" Title="Cateye Computer Probe Wire Repair" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;bike-computer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31809" CreationDate="2015-07-08T15:41:15.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways you can do the magnet sensing: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_switch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reed switch&lt;/a&gt; (a switch which physically closes with a magnetic field). If you swap the two wires, the sensor will work fine (i.e. it doesn't matter). You can test for this using the continuity tester mode of your multimeter (you'll have continuity if the magnet is near the sensor, and open circuit with the magnet far away). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hall effect&lt;/a&gt; sensor (Generally, there are 3 wires on here: Vdd, ground and the output of the sensor). There are 3!=6 ways you can wire it (so 5 ways to mess it up). Most likely, you won't get a reading from the sensor until you get it right if you don't hook it up correctly. As noted by Chris H, if you have a Hall effect sensor, chances are the wires will be color coded so you'll figure out Vdd and ground, and the remainder is output. Your multimeter won't really help you here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;inductor&lt;/a&gt; (basically, a coil of wire). If you swap the two wires, the sensor would work fine (it'd be equivalent to moving the sensor to the other side of the bike, i.e. it doesn't matter). Your multimeter will show continuity always, but if you have a LCR meter, you can check the inductance. If you measure resistance,  you should see a few ohms. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, basically, if you have 2 wires, chances are you can swap them without worrying and the thing should work. If you have 3, maybe you'll have to disassemble the sensor, figure out which sensor is in there and then look up the pinout (or guess based on color coding of the wires). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few more types of magnetic switches, but they're unlikely to occur in this application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T20:04:55.730" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T20:04:55.730" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31794" CreationDate="2015-07-08T16:47:53.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your saddle has been the same and nothing really changed, maybe it was something you did prior to that bike training on that day or before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you warm up as usual prior the training?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you drink enough water prior the training?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change of diet might have something to do with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change of clothing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like just a pull on your butt muscle. I suggest you rest a few days and observe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20242" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T16:47:53.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31815" CreationDate="2015-07-08T18:17:59.673" Score="0" ViewCount="1927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Race Face Ride XC single ring crankset that I stripped out the pedal threads on one arm.  I am trying to remove the crankset, I have followed the instructions that came with the crankset, and it is not budging.  I have a Park Tool CWP-7 and have tried to use it (following any instructions I could find) and got nowhere.  I have soaked it in WD-40 for a week and have pounded on it with a hammer, and its still stuck.  There is supposed to be an &quot;extractor bolt&quot; but the only piece I have to &quot;extract&quot; is the end-cap bolt on the drive-side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I doing wrong? Do I need a different crank puller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20165" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T18:53:28.097" Title="How to remove Race Face crankset?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31814" CreationDate="2015-07-08T18:53:28.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;Park Tool CWP-7&lt;/code&gt; is the tool for this job. Remove the outer cap using an allen key and then install the CWP-7. There is no need to tighten it ultra hard. Then use an allen key on the CWP-7 and start tightening the bolt. The extractor will &quot;penetrate&quot; the crank and the crank arm will start detaching itself from the other crank arm which also has the spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T18:53:28.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31794" CreationDate="2015-07-08T21:17:54.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would check your saddle. They can and do wear out and collapse. I had the same issue and it was solved with a new saddle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2863" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T21:17:54.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-08T23:45:15.490" Score="2" ViewCount="4078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my very first tube ever after my tire went flat yesterday. I successfully installing a new tube, inflated it, and left it overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This evening the tire was still fully inflated, but after a little riding the tire rapidly deflated again. The new tube has a large tear right at the valve (and after inspecting the old tube, that is also where the tear is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspecting the wheel shows this is what the valve hole looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3kgVZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tape&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this the cause of the puncture, and would replacing the rim tape resolve this issue? Or is that normally how it looks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is I don't have a reference of what this part of the rim tape should look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4038" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T19:58:17.093" Title="Does this rim tape need to be replaced?" Tags="&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31817" CreationDate="2015-07-09T01:17:48.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be careful when removing the pump hose from the stem. I've had the hose pull too hard on the stem and it caused a leak- the stem partially ripped out of the tube. Be sure to hold onto the stem, anchor it, when pulling the pump hose off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T01:17:48.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-09T02:02:33.313" Score="2" ViewCount="1263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a used mountain bike and on my first trip my rear wheel stopped turning with the cassette. When I pedal it turns the cassette and the gears still change smoothly but it doesnt turn the rear wheel anymore. What can it be? How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20374" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T09:00:53.867" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T18:46:38.840" Title="Rear wheel doesn't turn with cassette" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;freehub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31824" CreationDate="2015-07-09T02:56:21.403" Score="7" ViewCount="18915" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the top speed hit during a sprint on flat ground in a road race by a professional sprinter, say, someone like Cavendish?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an official record for this and if so who holds it currently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastEditorUserId="19106" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T15:02:29.023" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T12:53:31.987" Title="Fastest sprinter and their top speed?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7801" CreationDate="2015-07-09T03:10:46.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are several issues with your approach for improving power on bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;doing the same workout stresses the same aerobic pathway, since there are several ways your body can burn fuel it is worth exercising all of them. This means doing intervals of different length with different rest periods. Example: 3x(12+6) min on and off. The on part is similar to what you can do for 1 hour and the off part is half of that. Another example: 3x(3+3) min on and off where the on part is what you can do for 5 minutes, off part is half of that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the intervals do not seem to be anaerobic, because of the short recovery period( anaerobic intervals need longer recovery periods ). They are either Vo2Max intervals or Threshold. If they are Vo2Max I think the workout is too hard, usually accumulating 6 to 9 minutes at Vo2Max in a training session is too much, if they are threshold I don't think the approach is very good, better go with a longer interval period since threshold power can be usually sustained by riders for 30 to 60 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you want to endure in long events/rides you need to do longer sessions to have the endurance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heart rate on an indoor trainer seems to be artificially high for me, I think it is because of the poor ventilation. Also power on the trainer is much lower then going outside, so pacing with heart rate on an indoor trainer seems to be a bad idea at least this is my experience. Suppose your 170bpm is upper tempo power, on an  indoor trainer that might be actually upper endurance because of the artificial high heart rate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for effective mountain biking you also need riding skills, these are not developed on a trainer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try to look at the requirements of your specific events and target those, also try to do longer sessions on the trail to build the endurance needed to complete this events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternate way is to get a generic mountain biking endurance plan and build on that, it won't be perfect but I think is much superior over what you have now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, try to ride outside if possible, the workouts are better and you will enjoy the training much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7327" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T03:10:46.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31820" CreationDate="2015-07-09T04:14:59.967" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a complete answer really, but I've had a scan through &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/letourdata&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this TdF data Twitter account&lt;/a&gt; and Greipel's winning speeds from his two wins this year are an average of &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/letourdata/status/618814362648768512&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;59.58 km/h&lt;/a&gt; over the last km and a peak speed of &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/letourdata/status/617715313740787713&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;67.03 km/h&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: more stats for nerds &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dimensiondata.com/Global/Documents/Race%20in%20Review.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T12:53:31.987" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T12:53:31.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31820" CreationDate="2015-07-09T04:29:42.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The highest speeds on bike &lt;em&gt;similar&lt;/em&gt; to road bikes is the 200m track sprint, where the record is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Track_time_trial#Flying_200_m_time_trial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;9.347 seconds&lt;/a&gt;, for an &lt;em&gt;average&lt;/em&gt; of 77kph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T04:29:42.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31799" CreationDate="2015-07-09T05:17:20.590" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YmyXs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exact same problem here. Same bike. I got it off finally by just turning really really hard using a non-torque wrench. Make sure it's rotated so that the two dots are UP (12 o'clock). If installed correctly the lock should be at 12 o'clock when wheels are on the ground. So if you installed it in the wrong orientation (i.e. lock at 2 o'clock or 9 o'clock etc), then turning it upside down will not be the correct position. So rotate the bicycle around until the two dots are at 12 o'clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see from my photo it seems that when tried to loosen it, the tab on the black washer that is suppose to be in the fork dropout rolled into the plastic dropout insert which was causing it to bind. Going to write Canyon about this to see how I can get it repaired. Same thing happen to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explained in the instructions from IXOW--packaged separately from the urban manual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7sIv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20377" LastEditorUserId="20377" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T03:06:10.100" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T03:06:10.100" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6100" CreationDate="2015-07-09T05:59:26.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question is why coast? Personally I made an aim not to coast too much when riding( checked with a cadence histogram chart, usually is around 2~3% of time ). This is possible even after doing all out 30second intervals, I am still able to push out enough power to move me forward at a decent speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of not coasting is obvious, your body will adapt to not getting a relief which in turn will make you a stronger rider. Of course there are times when you are completely cooked, this is usually during long rides, you can coast for a couple of seconds to rest the legs a bit but this is a different scenario then what you are asking here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7327" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T05:59:26.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14059" CreationDate="2015-07-09T12:53:17.873" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;in regards to the efficiency advantage of clipless pedals there are a few things to keep in mind. first off, we are converting reciprocating motion to rotational motion. secondly, that this conversion has different force vectors throughout the 360 degrees of rotation. and finally, the reciprocating component, your leg, is comprised of three constantly changing angles: hip, knee and ankle joints.&#xA;   let's look at the internal combustion engine as a handy example of what we're referring to: as you approach and pass the top of the stroke the reciprocating mass, your leg, is moving more sideways, applying little downward force. this is why ICE's advance the spark before the piston reaches the top of the stroke.&#xA;   NOW, as you continue, force will increase up to it's maximum and than taper off as you approach around 145 degrees. this is why exhaust valves open before the end of the power stroke, because there is little force to be had at the bottom of the stroke.&#xA;   once again, as you approach the bottom of pedal travel, the motion is more sideways, producing no downward force.&#xA;    also note that as the reciprocating mass, your leg, reaches the top or bottom of the stroke, it is changing direction, from up to down and back.&#xA;   however, since we are talking about a human leg and not an inanimate connecting rod/piston assembly, there is some pulling back and up force that can be applied to the total power input to the rotating crank.&#xA;    but also keep in mind that as you approach around 280 degrees of crank travel you actually pushing the pedal more forward, to top dead center, than applying any useful power to the crank.&#xA;     the greatest force is applied on the down stroke, so flat/clipless advantage equal.&#xA;     pulling the pedal back and partially up, flat/clipless advantage probably equal.&#xA;     as RPM's and cadence and torque and technique ( a world class cyclist compared to you and me) increase there is probably a cumulative advantage across the spectrum of factors.&#xA;     as power output is a combination of all the above mentioned factors, a&#xA;more accurate assessment can be had by attaching sensors to the cranks and measuring force loading throughout the 360 degrees of crank rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20382" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T12:53:17.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-09T13:46:56.740" Score="1" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;To increase the development range on a folding bike, I'd like to replace its three-speed SRAM IGH with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/detail/x-rf8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sturmey-Archer X-RF8(W)&lt;/a&gt; IGH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The page says that it accepts a &quot;20 to 23 or 25 teeth sprocket&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere about IGHs that they impose a limit on the chainring/sprocket ratio because of the torque: Does someone know what the limit is for that IGH, so I know which chainring/sproket to get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of using either a 44T chainring + 20T sprocket combination, or if space allows, using a compact 50/34T chainring and a 20T sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2922" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T15:08:42.183" Title="Which chainring/sprocket for use with a Sturmey-Archer X-RF8(W) IGH?" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31832" CreationDate="2015-07-09T14:00:46.047" Score="2" ViewCount="4361" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies if this is the wrong type of question to ask here, but I was just wondering if anyone knows what particular wheel set comes with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/15-t-h2-2013-road-bike-ec040344&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Trek 1.5 2013 bike&lt;/a&gt;. I'm pretty sure this is the one I currently own, but other than the fact they are Bontrager I can't figure out what specific ones they are. I recently was hit by a car on my bike and (thankfully) the only damage is to the front wheelset, so I was looking to find out the weight so that I can replace them appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10816" LastActivityDate="2016-12-30T10:54:23.797" Title="What wheelset comes on this Trek?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31831" CreationDate="2015-07-09T14:14:26.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2013/archive/trek/2013_1_5_h2_compact/#/us/en/archive-model/details?url=us/en/bikes/2013/archive/trek/2013_1_5_h2_compact&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek's website&lt;/a&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheels: Alloy hubs w/Bontrager Approved alloy rims&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/road/product/review-trek-bikes-1-5-12-44273/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bikeradar's website&lt;/a&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front Wheel Weight: 1370g&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear Wheel Weight: 1970g&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I fear that you won't be able to replace the wheel with exactly the same thing since they seem to be generic wheels built for this bike. You can try the dealer you bought them from, they might have a replacement available or you can look for a different set elsewhere. In that price category you might have to buy a set (front+rear wheel) thought, but at least that means they will match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T14:14:26.737" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31820" CreationDate="2015-07-09T16:21:06.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Official record? No. It's simply not something the UCI has tracked nor has there really been an accurate way to track this. This is the first year where the entire peloton will have their data tracked during the Tour. Cycling isn't like Formula 1 where nearly every datapoint is meticulously tracked. The upside of the UCI weight limit on bikes is that most bikes can now easily come in under the limit and this in turn leaves room for the bikes to carry data trackers, power meters and cameras without incurring any perceived weight penalty. Prior to the UCI weight limit you'd rarely see a racer using a powermeter in competition because they added extra weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T16:21:06.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31831" CreationDate="2015-07-09T16:31:31.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a fairly generic, machine built wheelset with Bontrager branding. They're almost certainly OEM which means you won't be able to by a replacement set. Most likely Alex or similar rims. As you noticed, they're not the lightest wheels out there. A set such as this would typically retail for well under $300. The Shimano R501 or Mavic Aksium One are both good replacement wheels to look at in this price range. Either would be a nice upgrade without breaking the bank. There are some fantastic deals to be had on wheels these days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T16:31:31.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31819" CreationDate="2015-07-09T18:46:38.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really hard to say without knowing what hub you're running. Most likely the pawls failed inside the cassette body. The pawls and springs are the mechanism which allow cassette to spin freely independent of the wheel (like when you coast or spin the cranks backward). When forward pressure is applied to the cassette the pawls and springs engage and thus move the rear wheel. Fixing them can be a very simple process involving nothing more than a couple of allen wrenches or a rather more involved process requiring replacement of the cassette body. Really depends on the specific hub involved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T18:46:38.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31793" CreationDate="2015-07-09T19:02:33.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's an older bike then a pair of center pulls would be quite appropriate. Weinmann made some long reach center pulls in the past that could be picked up on eBay for not much. I think the model 890 and 999 had the longest reach but I can't remember exactly how long it was. Dia Compe still offer a long reach center pull though I'm not sure they reach quite that long. 95mm is quite a stretch, expect to have a lot of brake flex. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T19:02:33.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21061" CreationDate="2015-07-09T19:46:01.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It solves problems which simply don't exist on the road. Making the design change would require a significant investment and Shimano is already moving their upper tier road groups to electronic shifting which makes the whole cable friction aspect a non-issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do wish they'd put out a STI lever with the appropriate cable pull for Shadow. Would be great for cyclocross and also for drop bar MTBs (drop bars on MTBs are pretty awesome for all but the most technical of terrain!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T19:46:01.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-09T20:13:55.513" Score="2" ViewCount="1052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specialized Sirrus 2014 equipped w/ disc brakes. I'm quite happy with it for my commutes, yet after after spending a year with it, I kinda still long for the drop bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What components would need to be throw out and replaced in order to give my Sirrus drop bars? Does it generally seem like a good idea to rebuild a hybrid in this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(What I like about Sirrus are disc brakes, tire size, fenders and rack -- all very practical for commuting and reason for me not to get a proper road bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12864" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T15:56:26.733" Title="Converting Specialized Sirrus hybrid to drop bars" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-01-12T19:58:55.147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-09T20:42:25.157" Score="4" ViewCount="2434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a vintage Gitane Sprint from the early '80s which came with Weinmann 405s (single-pivot side pulls). I had been thinking about replacing the front brake anyway and then recently broke the quick release, which has been nearly impossible to replace without buying an entire brake and using it for parts. I was considering putting on a dual-pivot brake to help with some centering issues common to the Weinmanns as well as to increase stopping power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would a Shimano Tiagra 4500 be compatible with the Weinmann levers? If not, what type of brakes should I be looking for (whether new or vintage) without having to replace the levers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20387" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T22:50:02.460" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T18:27:01.853" Title="New Brake Compatibility with Vintage Bike" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31839" CreationDate="2015-07-09T22:03:43.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cable pull is the same for most mechanical caliper brakes (though it differs for recent Shimano 105, Ultegra and Dura-Ace which use the new &quot;SLR&quot; scheme).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things to take into account are the mounting nut and reach. Older brakes use a hex nut to hold the brake in place while newer ones use shorter bolt and countersunk nut. Most of new brakes are for recessed mounting, if your bike has traditional nut you will either need to find a brake with longer bolt and external nut or drill the fork crown for recessed nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst it's fine to drill out the rear of the fork crown to adapt an old frame to recessed mounting, it may be more problematic to deal with the (often narrrow) brake bridge at the rear. Instead, you can swap the (longer) front bolt on the front caliper of your new brakeset to the back - so giving the rear caliper enough protruding bolt to use an 'old style' non-recessed nut. Then use a new longer bolt (e.g from J-Tek &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jtekengineering.com/other/jtek-dual-pivot-brake-bolt-nut-conversion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.jtekengineering.com/other/jtek-dual-pivot-brake-bolt-nut-conversion/&lt;/a&gt;) onto the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown explains everything&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weinmann 405s seem to be short reach, so that should be no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MESTP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Recessed and traditional nut&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-09-14T18:27:01.853" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T18:27:01.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-09T23:35:00.210" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to mount Luxos IQ2 onto the fork crown. There isn't quite enough space between the back of the light and front brake cable and I was wondering if I could add a spacer between IQ2 metal bracket and the fork crown. Or would it weaken the stability of the mount? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/buPlP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Luxos IQ2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20389" LastEditorUserId="20389" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T23:42:14.873" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T00:22:17.880" Title="How do I adjust Luxos IQ2 mount?" Tags="&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31853" CreationDate="2015-07-10T02:48:00.033" Score="1" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every now and then I see on a bike shop's website that they will have last year's version of the same model of another bike, but it's marked down by a few hundred dollars.  Unfortunately, from what I've seen these are usually pretty few and far between.  Is there a good place to look that has a good selection of outdated bikes (preferably road bikes)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19830" LastEditorUserId="19830" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T12:09:17.927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T20:04:41.690" Title="Where to buy previous years' bikes" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11023" CreationDate="2015-07-10T05:23:00.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with motoring, you can use stiffer engine mounts so as to help transfer more power from the engine to the wheels.  However,  I'm told that it can make for a hideous ride quality in the vehicle. Now  Imagine that on an ultra stiff road bike. Great on silky, smooth, new tarmac - but in the real world,  wincing on every little bump in the road will affect your speed negatively. I know I stop pedalling and wince as I roll over rough bits of road. Mind you- great for powering up the hills I expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20392" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T05:23:00.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31845" CreationDate="2015-07-10T06:37:14.783" Score="1" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only just started getting into bikes recently, so i'll try and be as accurate and succinct as possible. Apologies in advance if I confuse anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to upgrade the wheels and crankset on my above mentioned Miyata with the hope that it will turn it into a leaner, meaner riding machine. I love the bikes aesthetic and frame quality, so i'm willing to spend money upgrading components. (Providing they will make an obvious improvement to its motion) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's current configuration is 700cc Wolber rims, 7 speed Shimano 105 hyperglide cassette, 105 front and rear derailleur, 105 7 speed downtube indexed shifters and a double Sugino VP crankset. I was wanting to upgrade to Fulcrum 5's/Mavic Ksyrium Equipe wheels, with Shimano freehub (or something in similar quality) and a modern 105 (or ultegra, money permitting) crankset. I really would like to keep my cassette and derailleurs as they are, if possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, (using Sheldon Browns 6-11speed article as reference) would I be able to install the wheels on a 7 speed cassette with a 4.5mm spacer without any problems? &#xA;Would I also be able to use a 9 speed chain ring (as 7 speed 105 chainrings defeats the purpose of the upgrade, AND they are hard to find) with a 7 speed chain without any shifting problems? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if there is anything I've not considered or if any of you have a better idea of going about this, please tell me. I'm all ears. I just want to make the bike faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&#xA;Jack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20393" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T12:04:59.400" Title="Compatibility issues with upgrading a 1991 1400a Miyata Road Bike" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31844" CreationDate="2015-07-10T10:27:09.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Miyata 1400a is made of aluminum. A  7 speed Shimano 105 system uses a rear spacing of 126 mm, which is smaller than the 130 mm needed for a modern 8-10 speed system. For a steel frame, its no problem to stretching the frame and get the wheel in. On an aluminum frame, you really shouldn't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/22970/should-i-force-an-130-mm-hub-into-my-old-vintage-alu-frame&quot;&gt;people have done this&lt;/a&gt; at their own risk, by either fidgeting with lock nuts or spacers or whatever. I wouldn't recommend it though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasonable thing to do is keep the bike as is, maybe with a different cassette if you need different gearing. You can use the 9 speed chainrings in a 7 speed drivetrain. You can also put 7 speed brifters if you want to feel more modern (you'll end up shifting more often). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T10:27:09.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T11:17:13.170" Score="5" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to understand how to use Swain HR to Power equation in my case. Here is a calculator where one can vary the inputs and see the various outputs based based on the equation: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingpowerlab.com/VO2maxPowerRelationship.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclingpowerlab.com/VO2maxPowerRelationship.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose my 20min HR is 183bpm and 20min Power is 280W. If I select an efficiency of 22% and set VO2Max to 4300ml the HR and Power align, 183bpm vs 280W, also another point on the graph is aligned for me and that is 171bpm with 250W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the right way to use equation or I should have data from a 1h test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7327" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T11:17:13.170" Title="Swain Power-HR relation" Tags="&lt;power&gt;&lt;heart-rate&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31844" CreationDate="2015-07-10T12:04:59.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;AFAIK all today's 105 and up Shimano cranksets are Hollowtech II, so when replacing your old you need to exchange the bottom bracket with bearing cups. You need to figure out what kind of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket#Sizes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bottom bracket shell&lt;/a&gt; you have and whether replacements even exist (only BSA68 and Italian are available).&#xA;They are much better than old cranksets (easier to install, reduced weight, increased stiffness, much easier to remove). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're changing crankset I'd definitely recommend switching to Hollowtech II, but I would not bother if you don't have a good reason to switch (wear, need for different transmission). I also recommend replacing chain and cassette when you're replacing chainrings - they are, for some reason, the most expensive parts of the trio, and you don't want to wear them excessively due to a worn chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T12:04:59.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31841" CreationDate="2015-07-10T12:10:09.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not that much load on the light - just add spacers or bend the mount as @super proposed, you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T12:10:09.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31875" CreationDate="2015-07-10T12:38:10.513" Score="0" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reviewing racks for my newly re-built vintage tour bike. I have 126mm drops.   I'm guessing I can just use spacers/washers to get the width lined up,  but the it's listed as 26&quot;, so if there isn't clearance for the tire,  is there some simple way to raise the mount,  like some steel thingy with two holes in it and a little gap?  I don't have a lot of tools or shop space, so I need something ready made.  *I am in Hiroshima and there are not a lot of rack options I've been able to find locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want this rack as it is well priced,  people seem to have good luck with them, it's steel and has a nice payload capacity.  I haven't seen anything that hits all of these points so I will make it work if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20271" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T03:15:57.690" Title="Can I put a Tortec Epic rear rack on a 27&quot; frame?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32216" CreationDate="2015-07-10T13:36:37.950" Score="2" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike's a 24-gear trail/road hybrid, and I've had it for about three years (although I've been riding it much more lately than in previous years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a long while, I've had an issue with chain skip happening seemingly at random, even on level, paved paths, however this issue was always more serious going uphill. I decided to replace my chain yesterday (it's appropriately sized, was pre-lubed, and none of the links locked upon inspection), however on this morning's commute I still got the same amount of skip, likewise more serious going uphill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried using best practices to avoid this issue, as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I avoid pedalling while changing gears&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've checked my front and rear derailleur alignment (and adjusted it as best I could, there's still a very, very slight amount of scraping on the front derailleur if the chain has to travel too far laterally e.g. between my largest front sprocket and the smallest sprocket on the cassette on the rear wheel)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I've double-checked that the links don't block, multiple times&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The teeth on the front sprockets as well as on the cassette don't seem to be overly worn down&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two more factors could be relevant to this; this new chain has those &quot;tool-free&quot; break links (you bend the chain to attach or detach one side of the link and break the chain), and I'm a more heavyset guy, so I pedal hard - I think this could be putting more stress on the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what else I can do to reduce chain skip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I've gone by my LBS and apparently one of the chain gears is in fact worn down (I just didn't know how to tell, apparently).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20397" LastEditorUserId="20397" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T21:56:33.763" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T22:24:56.780" Title="Chain skip happening seemingly at random with a new chain" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;&lt;skipping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31850" CreationDate="2015-07-10T14:14:33.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedaling while changing gears in important to avoid damage to derailleur and chain. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt; Gear shifting proper technique by Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shift the gears so that chain is on the middle chain ring(at the pedals) and approximately on the middle gear on the cassette. Verify that the derailer with the chain is vertical, if not adjust accordingly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, it is possible that chain may be skipping if the derailleur is slightly bent - in this case bring your bike in to a reputed local bike shop(LBS) and have it checked out. It may save your derailleur from further damage and possible need to replace it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing to an easier gear just before you climb and spinning pedals (lower effort but slightly higher pedal cadence), instead of mashing on a tougher gear (applying greater force and lower pedal cadence) helps avoid chain skipping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T14:14:33.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31850" CreationDate="2015-07-10T15:09:27.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your cassette and possibly chainwheels are worn out. When a chain wears, the cogs wear down together with it and will not mesh correctly with a new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worn cogs do not look like the teeth would be actually wearing down. Instead, the teeth get narrower and eventually develop an asymmetric &quot;shark fin&quot; shape. If you do not know exactly what to look for, a worn out cassette looks like new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="10595" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T20:45:05.613" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T20:45:05.613" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31842" CreationDate="2015-07-10T18:01:00.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here in the Toronto area, you can find these bikes either at a spring bike show or (more commonly) fall bike show. They are generally priced aggressively to clear out stock and you won't find many in the stores in the coming years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most shops will not have previous model years around as they make money selling bikes and want to move stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also managed to find my girl's bike on Kijiji the same way that a shop just wanted to clear out last years model. 40% off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final option is a few bike stores that sit on stock for years and they won't move on the price regardless and you won't convince them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T18:01:00.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31735" CreationDate="2015-07-11T02:36:15.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about building a wheel using just the screw slot – I think you could probably do it, but I suspect that it would be a painful process. If you tried it, you'd want to be sure that the spoke lengths were exactly right. Much of the strength of the spoke comes from engaging with the threads in the wider section of the nipple that is on the inside of the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi-E used to make nipples that were driven from the inside with a hex head. I built a number of wheels with them, they were easy to work with – the only downside is that you have to remove the tire to true the wheel. But for you, that would be a feature, you don't want somebody messing up your beautiful wheel with a spoke wrench. I think that would be the way to go. Hi-E is gone, but you can still get them from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sapim.be/nipples/aluminium/hexagonal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sapim&lt;/a&gt;. They make alloy nipples in a number of colors including black and orange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also consider using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sapim.be/nipples/aluminium/inverted&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;inverted&quot; nipples&lt;/a&gt; which are installed on the inside of the rim (only the spoke shows) if you can't get the right orange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T02:36:15.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31745" CreationDate="2015-07-11T02:53:52.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both of those tires are quite close to the tires that you already have. There is a really good chance that they will fit. Because of the extra material in the SmartGuard layer these tires are taller than they are wide, but only by a couple of millimeters. So all you need to be concerned about is to look at the clearance on your bike with your current tires. Do you have decent clearance between the red of the tire and the crown of your fork and the bridges in the rear (or the fenders if you have the fenders installed)? 10-15 mm would be very comfortable, on my old Trek I've got like 5 mm. I don't have enough room to comfortably run fenders with my Marathons, but I'll be OK until the rain returns :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have enough room at the top, you probably also have room at the sides, but it is worth looking there too. The more generous the clearance the fewer hassles you'll run into with bits of junk on the road (it can get caught between the tire and the frame) or an out of true wheel – like if you break a spoke. From the look of the bike in the photos you should have plenty of room – the lower edges of the fenders appear to be aligned with the full diameter of the tires and the specs say that the bike comes with 37 mm tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T02:53:52.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31868" CreationDate="2015-07-11T06:49:16.540" Score="1" ViewCount="19386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I.would like to know what psi should I be maintaining in the tires to ride a mountain bike on normal roads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20403" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T16:57:21.210" Title="Psi for riding mountain bike on road" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31857" CreationDate="2015-07-11T07:29:16.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on the tyre, the range of pressures is printed on the sidewall of your tyres. It's your choice what pressure you want - lower pressure is generally more grippy and less bumpy on rough roads, high pressure saves energy. If the road is smooth, go for the upper limit of what is printed on your tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T07:29:16.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-11T13:02:09.357" Score="2" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I had a problem with the back rim (the axis) and the guy who repaired just replaced the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After few weeks I tried to repair a flat tire, but I found myself unable to remove the tire to change the tube. After two or three hours of fight I found out that I had damaged the tube and the tire, and I decided to just tear the tire apart. Even doing that was difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after that, I tried with 32-622, 35-622 and 37-622 tires and none of them fit. Impossible. Not even the first bead of the tire, which is supposed to be easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I decided to measure both rims (the one that wasn't replaced and the affected one), and they seem to have the same diameter as well as the same width. The only matter in which they differ is the well depth. The &quot;good&quot; one has about 12mm of depth, while the one I can't mount has like 8mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody please suggest which tire sizes should I buy?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dg6FR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is the rim that I can&amp;#39;t mount. 8mm deep well&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/51e1c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Both rims next to each other.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20405" LastEditorUserId="20405" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T14:35:39.563" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T17:12:40.770" Title="Unable to find correct tire size" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-11T14:09:37.330" Score="7" ViewCount="5372" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do expensive chains last longer? I get 300-400 miles using Wally World's $10 8 speed chains while riding off road or dirt.  I monitor and replace the chain at close to 1 percent stretch. Would a 'better' (i.e. more expensive) chain last longer? Has anyone done a comparison of chain life and longevity vs price?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10797" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T12:50:00.873" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T15:56:48.553" Title="Is the durability of more expensive chains better than cheaper ones?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31866" CreationDate="2015-07-11T14:37:56.123" Score="7" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a patch kit (from Bike Hand) and it includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;Rubber solution&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;Metal rasp&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;Patches&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with the aforementioned supplies there are two small rubber tubes, hollow, and about 1cm long.  What are these and how would one potentially use them with the patch kit?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yhLB9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T16:23:21.373" Title="What's in this patch kit?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31860" CreationDate="2015-07-11T15:27:20.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The only advantage of expensive chains within a specific brand is the minor reduction in weight. The ones with extra plating do look nicer and provide some corrosion resistance, but it takes almost no effort to keep your chain rust free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are differences between various manufacturers, but in general those relate to shifting and how the quicklinks work, not the chain life. (i.e. if you like how SRAM chains work on your bike, buy the cheapest SRAM chain. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;300/400 miles is a very short life span for a chain. Two things might help you extend the life of your chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your rear cluster is worn, that will quickly wear out a chain. &#xA;On the other hand if you replace your chains regularly a rear cluster can last a very long time. If you have lot's of miles on the rear cluster consider a replacement. Any time you replace the rear cluster you should replace the chain. Front chainrings can also cause wear, but they take a lot longer to wear out. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Excess lube on the chain. In a dusty dirt environment any lube on the outside of the chain creates a grinding paste that will wear a chain quickly. Chains actually move very little. All they really need is enough&#xA;lubrication to prevent corrosion inside the rollers. If you're riding in&#xA;dirt and dust wipe the outside of the chain as clean as possible before installing it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point 2 is controversial, all I can say is I ride on fine clay soils that destroy chains and it has worked for me to greatly extend the life of both chains and expensive gear clusters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T22:27:45.390" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T22:27:45.390" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31861" CreationDate="2015-07-11T16:19:59.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The little tubes are for Dunlop valves. The tube is pulled over a stem. Air pressure will push the the tube against the stem and prevent the loss of air!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valve_stem&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valve_stem&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;If you look at the German translation of the page you find more pictures and one of the tubes in use. This type of valve was much used in England and also in Germany and has been supplanted by Presta and Schrader valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T16:19:59.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31861" CreationDate="2015-07-11T16:23:21.373" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The little rubber tubes are for repairing Woods/Dunlop valves. The valve core does not have any valve mechanism in itself, but relies on the little rubber tube to seal. The tube fits over rounded end of the valve core shown below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EaPNW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Woods valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of new tubes come with similar-looking valve that has a ball and spring mechanism instead of the rubber tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T16:23:21.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31860" CreationDate="2015-07-11T16:28:57.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get 5000 to 10000 kilometers from mid-priced 20€ Campagnolo C9 chains. I would say this is money well spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, as other answers state, riding conditions and maintenance do effect the chain life. In my experience SRAM and KMC chains are nowhere near as durable with similar maintenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="10595" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T17:43:56.497" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T17:43:56.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31857" CreationDate="2015-07-11T16:57:21.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While higher pressure is generally better for road riding, very much depends on the quality of tire. I had a cheap set of Kendas on my BSO. They were rated for 35-65 psi. For my city riding I would pump them to 35, maybe 40. The ride was too harsh beyond that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently got a bike with a sweet set of tires: Maxxis Crossmark and Larsen. They are rated for the same pressure as my Kendas, but the ride quality is vastly superior. At 50 psi they are as comfy as my cheap tires are at 25-30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the difference is that the higher quality tires have thinner walls, which allows them to deflect more easily when under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pump my tires to whatever feels right with respect to the terrain I'm riding. I only look at my sidewalls to make sure that the pressure I'm running isn't dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T16:57:21.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31842" CreationDate="2015-07-11T20:04:41.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike shops from one area to the next can be as different as oranges and orangutans. The same can be true of bike shops within a given area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in the &quot;Olympia Washington Metroplex&quot;, there are seven bike shops: Deschutes (on Custer), Deschutes (on 4th), Joy Ride, Old Town, Bike Tech, Falcones, REI&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of different bike collectives: Evergreen College Bike Shop, Build A Bike, Intercity Transit's program (which is aimed at kids).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a couple of bike builders here in town, but that's probably off topic from what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Falcones, I'm told, can be a good place to find previous year's models still sitting in boxes--sometimes bikes from 10 or more years ago. I got a previous year's model for my son at REI 2 years ago, and I've seen previous year's models for sale at most of the local shops. Deschutes specializes in used bikes and upgrades, so they are my shop of choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of this information might be found online at BikeForums, Yelp, etc. However, the best way to find it out is by visiting the local shops. Go to Google Maps, enter &quot;bike shops in &quot; without the quotes. Check out their hours, make a day of it, and visit them all. Go in without any plan to buy. Just visit, see what they've got, get a feel for the place. Some places might rub you wrong. Others might feel like they were put there to serve you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T20:04:41.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17273" CreationDate="2015-07-12T00:00:11.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Understand that traditional bicycle wheel sizes have generally referred to the diameter of the tire, not the rim.  Thus a 26&quot; wheel will have a diameter of &lt;em&gt;roughly&lt;/em&gt; 26 inches with the tire on it and inflated (though the actual diameter is often not reliable enough to size the wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, in particular, 26&quot; wheels (and smaller) have different rim diameters depending on the tire width -- a wider tire will tend to have a smaller rim diameter, so that the overall wheel size comes closer to 26&quot;.  (Further, a 26 x 1-3/4 tire is not the same size as a 26 x 1.75 tire -- go figure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; sensible way to match tires to rims is via the ISO sizes (which are tied to the rim size, not the tire).  26&quot; tires have ISO sizes from XX/571 to XX/597 (where the XX is replaced with the tire width in mm, and the 571, eg, is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bead circle diameter&lt;/a&gt; in mm -- the critical number to match.  And, while 26&quot; tires vary, 27&quot; tires are (almost) always XX/630.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700C tires are always XX/622.  (And this includes &quot;29-inch&quot; tires that are really 700C tires, only marketed to guys who don't wears spandex shorts.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the XX value, that is the &quot;nominal&quot; tire width -- approximately how wide it would be (in mm) when mounted on an &quot;average&quot; rim.  Of course, rim width varies (it's stated as the inner width, between the two flanges), and (since tires are flexible in the width direction) it need not be a particular precise value.  Rim width should be &lt;em&gt;narrower&lt;/em&gt; than the tire width (by roughly a factor of 2), but there are a lot of differing opinions as to how wide/narrow, compared to the tire width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T00:00:11.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31873" CreationDate="2015-07-12T01:10:59.717" Score="2" ViewCount="578" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an Azor Opa style bike with 28x 1 1/2&quot; (700 x 38c) tires that I want to switch out with something slimmer.  Would going down to 30c present a problem for my wheel perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20414" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T02:57:06.120" Title="Replacing a 38c tire with 30c" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31871" CreationDate="2015-07-12T01:54:46.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike would sit about 4 mm lower is the main thing (and technically, the gearing will change slightly). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mount the tire on there and it will work, but it may not be optimal depending on your &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rim width&lt;/a&gt;; if the rim is too wide for the tire, you may get more flats or rim damage when you hit a road hazard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why you want to switch to something slimmer, if its for rolling resistance, you should read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/rolling-resistance.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rolling_resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T02:10:02.240" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T02:10:02.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31871" CreationDate="2015-07-12T02:57:06.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will depend on the rim width, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_dimensions#rim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe's table of tire size to rim widths&lt;/a&gt; you'd be fine with a 17 or 19 mm rim and you'd be pushing it if you have a 21 mm rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T02:57:06.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2516" CreationDate="2015-07-12T03:09:24.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding mtb from the age of 12-34 consistently and often with friends and small groups. I have not only never hooked my bar ends (bullhorn as called when they first became a thing) on anyone but never on anything either. I regularly ride through traffic, parked cars, trails with foliage, narrow passes on trails designed to keep cars out, and you name it. I have never had an accident with them. I think an individual has to look more at themselves and ask &quot;Am I a Clutz who doesn't pay attention to what I'm doing?&quot; If you are, or if you're not sure, don't get them. Myself I do a lot of long rides (even crossing my entire state of Missouri) and they are amazingly comfortable on my hands and wrists. &lt;em&gt;Shrug&lt;/em&gt; Good Luck and I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20415" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T03:09:24.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31849" CreationDate="2015-07-12T03:15:57.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you mean &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zyro.co.uk/tortec/products/detail/TTEPIC&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this rack&lt;/a&gt;? On the linked page it says that the rack will fit a 700c bike. Also I see that there are two holes at the bottom (dropout) mount, that would make it easy to use something like a repair strap to raise the rack if that proves necessary. Use a bolt through both holes so that the repair strap and rack can't move under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're handy with tools you might find it just as easy to get a short piece of stainless flat bar (or aluminum) and cut and drill it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T03:15:57.690" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31876" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31877" CreationDate="2015-07-12T10:19:34.280" Score="9" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me provide some context to the question. I mostly cycle alone and cover distances in the range from 45 km to 65 km; depending on the route, these rides last from less than 2 hours to well over 4 hours. The bike is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/ceneje/www/images/products/mother/1024/623/623075-0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nakamura highlander&lt;/a&gt; (a trekking bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the routes I cycle involve (very) long stretches of road with no villages nearby. Apart from water, and sometimes a phone and a wallet, I do not carry any equipment. My fear is that when something goes wrong---I get a flat tire for instance---I will be in major trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What basic equipment---like patches and a bicycle pump---do you carry on such trips? Where (and how) do you carry them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; (July 12th 2015)&lt;strong&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; The question seems to have some overlap with the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/338/riding-repair-kit?rq=1&quot;&gt;Riding Repair Kit&lt;/a&gt;, asked by @mfg, although the two are not equivalent: I am asking about basic equipment on longer bike rides whereas @mfg is asking about minimal repair kit for intra-city commuters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20021" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T14:32:00.410" Title="What is the necessary equipment on longer bike rides?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;tools&gt;&lt;equipment&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31876" CreationDate="2015-07-12T10:47:14.327" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering as a road cyclist ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a ride of this duration (less than a day), before starting I take notice of the conditions, and decide what to wear, in how many layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to carry a spare layer to put on during stops, and in case of bad weather. Usually it'll be my lightweight wind and (so called) water proof jacket. Sometimes it's just a windproof vest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always start every ride carrying two full water bottles. I would expect to refill them somewhere on an all day ride. I have a mini pump clipped to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always carry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My bike multitool. It has more tools than I need, but it's amazing how often I come across someone in need. (My brother asked me for a 5mm hex key once and I gave him the multitool. He said he only needed to tighten something, not rebuild the whole bike :-) Mine is 10 years old and is a BBB version of this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/rescue-tool-mtb-7&quot;&gt;Park Tool&lt;/a&gt;. I should also mention that I wrap the multitool in a plastic bag. It stops it from rattling, and a plastic bag can be placed between my cap and helmet if it gets &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; wet!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Puncture repair kit. (Note to self, replenish the used patches). Just a plain repair kit from my LBS. It had chalk, glue, patches, and a piece of emery paper. I lost the chalk but replaced everything else multiple times. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/vulcanizing-patch-kit-vp-1&quot;&gt;Park Tool Kit&lt;/a&gt; is similar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Three plastic tire levers. One always seems to go boing off into the bush. Again, just generic plastic levers from my LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two spare tubes. On a bad day ...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mobile phone.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One banana. For a big day, two bananas.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wallet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except for the banana and wallet, the stuff I carry is all wrapped up and in my middle back jersey pocket. The banana and spare top is the left back pocket, the wallet in the right pocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have the rain jacket on and have to remove it, I'll roll it into a ball and stuff it the back left pocket. If I have to remove another layer, I'll plan a stop to roll the garment up into a small thin roll and put it the back right pocket. Most of my bike gear has full length zips; I can unzip them to get &lt;em&gt;lots&lt;/em&gt; of ventilation before needing to take the thing off. Never had to take off more layers than that; some people suggest tying them around your waist, various bike parts ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T12:30:20.330" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T12:30:20.330" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31886" CreationDate="2015-07-12T12:53:03.397" Score="2" ViewCount="4293" Body="&lt;p&gt;While riding yesterday I could shift into the big chainring, but to get back to the small chainring, I had to dismount and press on the chain with my hand (I'm not talented enough nor inclined to learn how to do this with my shoe while riding).  It's an eight year-old triathlon bike and there was plenty of slack in the cable when I tried to shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5275" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T20:08:53.630" Title="Can't shift to small chainring" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6363" CreationDate="2015-07-12T13:25:59.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen three bicycles with what appear to be stress fractures at the bottom of the seat tube and top of the bottom bracket shell.  A bike nut friend with more metallurgical knowledge than me tells me that this is caused by work hardening -- which is the same thing that causes a paper clip to become brittle after repeated flexing.  Now that this has happened to my trusty chrome-moly Fuji Gran Touer SE frame after 20+ years of daily use, I have a suspicion that the habit of mounting and dismounting on/off the left pedal while rolling is something that probably puts lots of extra stress/flex on this joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T13:25:59.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-12T15:36:57.610" Score="3" ViewCount="29348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a 5'10, 300lbs rider looking to get back on a bike after many years and many pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I owned a 1999 Trek 7700 Multitrack and road about 20 miles a day for many years before injuries, age and time took their toll.  I want to get back on a bike - new or used - in the $400 range.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?  I loved the hybrid, but I'm not sure the rims/tires can handle my current weight.  My target weight is 220, which was my weight when I used to ride daily. Initially, I'll be riding about 10 miles per day on level pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking at some Trek 7.x fx bikes, but am open to any make/model/year.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20418" LastEditorUserId="20418" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T16:38:57.647" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T19:18:35.293" Title="Bike suggestions for a heavy rider" Tags="&lt;weight&gt;&lt;city&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-04-26T21:02:47.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-12T16:25:59.583" Score="2" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Dublin, CA. I have a 5 miles commute each way from my house to my office. There will an upward climb on the way back home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.sg/maps/dir/Applegate+Way,+Dublin,+CA+94568,+USA/7567+Amador+Valley+Blvd,+Dublin,+CA+94568,+USA/@37.7160638,-121.873861,16z/data=!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x808feed00f385eff:0x3533cdde4a5b77b6!2m2!1d-121.8667097!2d37.7203789!1m5!1m1!1s0x808fec698cda4c77:0xb319ad74ec89e9fb!2m2!1d-121.9307488!2d37.7094986!3e1?hl=en%5C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google map with biking route&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner when it comes to biking. I haven't biked for years since I was a kid. Previously I lived in a city where transport is very convenient so there's no need for a bike commute. I just relocated to Dublin, CA for studies and work, it's a suburban area with swathes of land so I have to bike to get from point A to point B. I have to commute to Stanford via trains/bus as well, so it's helpful to have a bike that can fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into buying a Tern. Brompton is too expensive; I don't know how to appreciate the higher-end folding bikes since I haven't rode a bike in years. I thought I'd start off small with an affordable but sturdy foldie like Tern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into two options: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ternbicycles.com/sg/bikes/link-uno&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tern Link Uno&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ternbicycles.com/us/bikes/link-d8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tern Link D8&lt;/a&gt;. Link Uno is cheaper as it is single-speed, and it looks aesthetically pleasing as well. I'm not sure whether I can handle multiple gears since as I said, I haven't cycled in a long long time. However, judging from the bike path, as you can see on the Google Map, there will be an uphill climb near to the end of my journey home. I'm not sure such a climb is considered steep; you should know that I have no prior experience biking in such a suburban place (I lived in a city all my life). Hence I seek your expertise on this matter. Will that warrant for a Link D8 instead? It has multiple gears so that I guess it can take care of the uphill ascent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hills aside, which bike do you think is more suitable for a complete beginner? I'm 6'1&quot; tall, 187 lbs, in generally good shape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20419" LastEditorUserId="20419" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T16:33:03.830" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T17:56:11.073" Title="Which Tern is suitable for a beginner commuter?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-07-15T00:28:28.177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31880" CreationDate="2015-07-12T16:43:19.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your current weight is at the high end of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/support/faq/question/is_there_a_weight_limit_for_your_bikes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;limits Trek puts on their bikes&lt;/a&gt;. Here's the relevant section from the Trek FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rider weight limit of 300lbs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hybrid bicycles with 700c wheels, tires larger than 28c, and flat&#xA;handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;City bicycles: hybrids with special equipment, cyclocross bicycles:&#xA;with drop type handlebars, knobby 700c tires, and cantilever or disc&#xA;brakes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain bikes of all types including: standard, race, cross-country,&#xA;heavy-duty, trail, all-mountain, freeride, and jumping bikes of both&#xA;the hardtail and full suspension variety.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that other makers have similar limits. You don't say much about your riding style, so it is hard to be very specific, but there are some things to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take time to find a bike that fits you well, it will be &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; easier to keep riding if you are comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your wheels are well trued and tensioned, the biggest cause of wheel failure is probably spoke breakage caused by spokes that are too loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a frame that will take wide tires and use them – wider tires will be able to support your weight with lower pressures which reduce the chance of pinch flats and rim damage. Wider tires will also make the bike more comfortable and by running at lower pressure will reduce the stress on your rims.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! If you're starting with a bike in decent condition and aren't riding it too hard, I'd guess that if you take care of the items I mentioned above the bike will do just fine. Your weight is going down after all. I wasn't as heavy as you when I started riding again – but I was up there (on the far side of 260). I started on the bike I had – an old steel Trek 530 frame with 32 mm tires (the biggest I could fit into the frame). I'm starting to think I'll be able to break 200 this year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for ideas about getting started on riding again, I'd highly recommend Grant Peterson's book &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bo17.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Just Ride&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. There is good thinking about riding for the joy of it and also some ideas to get you thinking about how to exercise effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T02:32:46.510" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T02:32:46.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31887" CreationDate="2015-07-12T17:52:09.373" Score="3" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to buy a new chain for my bike, and read the answers for this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31860/advantage-of-expensive-chains&quot;&gt;Is the durability of more expensive chains better than cheaper ones?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The accepted answer said, that there is no difference between inexpensive and expensive chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I googled and found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycleslondon.co.uk/shimano-vs-kmc-bicycle-chains/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; where the author says, that Shimano chains are bad, and KMC - good. There is a difference in price:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-9-Speed-CN-HG73-116-Links-HG-73-Bike-Bicycle-Chain-For-SHIMANO-Deore-LX-105/141379486975&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cheap Chinese chain 116 links&lt;/a&gt; - $9.54 + free shipping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/mr-ride-KMC-X9-Silver-9-Speed-112-link-road-mtb-bike-for-Shimano-/231510941409&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KMC X9 chain 112 links&lt;/a&gt; - $14.89 + $4.04 shipping = $18.93&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/KMC-X9-Vivid-Bike-Chain-Pink-9-Speed-116-Link-Campagnolo-Shimano-SRAM-New-/252023728917&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KMC X9 chain 116 links&lt;/a&gt; - $27.46 + $7.37 shipping = $34.83&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I trust to the post author, suggesting to buy KMC chains?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why the 2-nd chain has only 112 link, while normally there are 116 for a 9 speed bike? I counted number of links in my current chain, and there are 104.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the 3-rd chain better then the 2-nd? Seems to be the same model.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13656" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T22:12:28.080" Title="Choosing a new chain" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1326" CreationDate="2015-07-12T20:06:44.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a bike making noise only when pedaling up a slight hill. After two visits to Safety Cycles on Western Ave. in Hollywood,CA. It was still making noise.  Then it finally broke. On Saturday July 11,2015 I carried the bike home, took it to the shop, and they replaced the part for free because the bike was under warranty.  They said they had never seen this before, but that it was a defective freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20425" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T20:06:44.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-12T21:51:54.233" Score="5" ViewCount="13626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get the Shimano Deore 610 Groupset 3x10 but want to run drop handlebars with brifters (brakes &amp;amp; shifters combined) but it seems like this is almost impossible...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told by one support person from the online site I'm buying from that I can use 105 brifters and front deraileur and this might be compatible. I've been told by another support person to just go Tiagra 4703 but I really would prefer V-Brakes (descending the Alps), the lower gear ratios (climbing the Alps) and the €100 saving of the Deore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I've got two issues, gear indexing and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/12456/will-a-road-brake-lever-work-with-a-v-brake&quot;&gt;brake cable pull ratio&lt;/a&gt; but is there any brifters that will allow me to use Deore successfully without huge amounts of faff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20427" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T18:28:43.350" Title="Which road shifters will work with Shimano Deore (M)610 Groupset?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;groupsets&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31878" CreationDate="2015-07-12T22:08:40.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The derailleur was sticking.  A bit of lubrication and all was good again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5275" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T22:08:40.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31883" CreationDate="2015-07-12T22:12:28.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://radreise-forum.de/topics/308644&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This is the best test of chain wear I know of&lt;/a&gt;: it's in german, but the graph should speak for itself. His comment: &quot;Chains were used under subjectively similar conditions - with exception of SRAM PC69 which, in nice conditions, lives for 1500-1800km&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I think I rode unknown KMC, Shimano (probably HG-53), and afer having stumbled upon said findings, the Record C9. Different chains definitely have different lifetimes (and failure modes: some tend to tear, some lengthen quickly thus unusable). I have very good experience with C9, however, it is harder to mount (no missing link), and apparently it is incompatible with some slightly worn chainrings, but I'm not sure there. I posted a question on that problem &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31044/campagnolo-record-c9-shimano-cs-hg200-9-incompatibility&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. IIRC, with me, Shimano chains wore fastest, KMC were somewhat better, maybe in the 2000-4000km range. The C9 lives some 10000 km for me. However, you seem to be located in the USA, apparently it's quite expensive there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With cheap no-name chains I'd guess it depends on your luck. A bad quality chain will wear maybe in a couple 100km, and may tear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T22:12:28.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31892" CreationDate="2015-07-13T00:02:23.383" Score="4" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm stocking tubes that I found in discount. One of my friends said that tubes get old over time. Do Butyl tubes do this?  If it is true, what are storage tips for stocking them? &#xA;And they came packed with a powder-like solution, how does this work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14662" LastEditorUserId="19106" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T15:17:37.650" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:39:01.827" Title="Do stocked tubes go rubbish over time?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-13T01:13:17.533" Score="1" ViewCount="1295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am upgrading my bike which is exciting but I can't spend too much. Do I sacrifice carbon for aluminum if that gives me the option to go full suspension. Do I go for a solid carbon hardtail that may sacrifice some of the trail comfort for the durability. How much of an advantage is the full suspension over hardtail if you can only buy one for $1500?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20428" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T23:09:40.917" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T23:09:40.917" Title="Buying a new bike for under $1500 - best option for hard terrain on a budget" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-07-20T12:48:46.480" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31888" CreationDate="2015-07-13T01:15:08.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On long enough time scales (many decades), sure. Rubber-y things oxidize (seems like drying out, but it's different).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On more practical time scales (several years), keep them cool and protected from UV light and ozone. They'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T06:11:48.120" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T06:11:48.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-13T02:06:30.600" Score="0" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not rich so the budget is as low as possible. I use my bike for pleasure mostly as I am still a teenager. Of course I want speed, so I was wondering how well it would work if I changed the tires to thinner then they already are. Please tell me what size would be good, I ride on the road often, but I also use the sidewalk enough that a standard 700c tire would have to much vibration. I was also thinking about switching the handlebars to road bike style. Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20429" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T02:06:30.600" Title="Converting my Giant Roam 3 into more of a road bike, while keeping its hybrid identity?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-07-13T20:11:16.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31888" CreationDate="2015-07-13T03:07:49.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they do degrade over time. Unfortunately, various brands and different storage conditions yield different results, so I'm not able to give an estimation of how long can you safely store a tube. How ever, I can recommend the conditions that appeared to give best results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tubes I could use after long time of storage without problems where those that I kept in my room, which being in a tropical country, had temperatures of 15°-25° Celsius. They where obviously far from paints, solvents or oils, where taken out of bags and kept on a small plastic basket. Those that came in a cardboard box, where kept in the box. Also, at buy time, they where dark gray and with a subtle shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Negative results where obtained with tubes that where kept outside the house, in a dusty environment and subjected to humidity but not direct sunlight. (And there were paints, oils and solvents nearby, though not in an enclosed storage)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, tubes that had dull surface and where very dark (i.e. black) at buy time where the ones that failed shortly after installed, almost regardless of whether they where used immediately or after a time stored. Due to this, I suspect that they where already chemically damaged (And today I'm reluctant to use/buy a tube that looks this way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another observation is that Tubes I stored inside of plastic bags where found stuck to themselves and with a sticky or gooey surface after a year or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon inflation (outside a tire) those tubes that where badly stored shown one or more of the following tale signs:&#xA; - They stretch irregularly, with bulges, instead of uniform diameter.&#xA; - Crackled surface.&#xA; - Irregular surface (different color and/or texture in certain spots).&#xA; - Apparent punctures, i.e. what visually appeared to be holes but did not leak when water tested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T12:58:13.253" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T12:58:13.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-13T12:32:15.327" Score="2" ViewCount="1930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fixed-gear/single-speed (&lt;strong&gt;Mercier Kilo TT&lt;/strong&gt;; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott.htm#specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mercier/kilott.htm#specs&lt;/a&gt;; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclesmercier.com/geometry_tt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclesmercier.com/geometry_tt.html&lt;/a&gt;) road bike with &lt;strong&gt;700Cx23&lt;/strong&gt; tires; I'm basically looking to ride using a bigger tired, something more fitting for cyclocross or more &quot;rugged&quot; terrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main issue is determining what the max size tire my frame will fit. Does it vary widely by frame? Is it universal? I'd like to go up to at least a &lt;strong&gt;700Cx32&lt;/strong&gt; with better treads...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologies for the scatterbrain wording, let's hash this out whilst I browse the similar questions. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20432" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T16:11:43.910" Title="Mercier road bike - biggest tire/wheel possible on frame" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31893" CreationDate="2015-07-13T14:21:26.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is by no means universal. Frames are built with a maximum tire size in mind. Some bike include a maximum size in their specs, so you might check to see. Otherwise, it is easy enough to figure out. Since you have tires on the bike already, you can check the existing clearance and get a very good idea of what will fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by measuring the clearances. Here's where to look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the top of the fork – measure (or estimate) the clearance between the tread of the tire and the fork crown and the sides of the tire and the fork blades. One easy way to gauge the clearance is with a drill bit or Allen wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the chain stay bridge – here you want to look for clearance like you did at the fork (tread to bridge and side to stays) &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; you want to check how much room you have to install the wheel with the tire inflated. If you have vertical dropouts or track dropouts this isn't much of an issue, but with &quot;old school&quot; horizontal dropouts where the wheel moves forward in the frame to come out of the dropout, it can be the limiting factor (especially if you'd rather not have to deflate the tire to get the wheel out).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the brake bridge – measure like the front fork. In my experience, this is not where the problems will lie, but double check just to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know how much clearance you have you can get a pretty good idea of how a larger tire will fit. The &quot;other&quot; dimension on the tire is, roughly speaking, the diameter of the cross section on of the tire – imagine the wheel as a pizza, if you cut a slice and look at it from the side the tire is the outer crust (the thick round part), the 23 or 32 is the diameter of the &quot;roll&quot; of crust at the outer edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for you, to be able to go from a 23 mm tire to a 32 mm tire you need about 9 mm of extra radial clearance (clearance between the top of the tread and the fork crown and bridges) and about 4.5 mm of lateral clearance (between the tire walls and the fork and stays). I call this &quot;extra&quot; clearance because you want to maintain some additional space to allow for an untrue wheel and for junk that gets picked up by your wheels as you ride. On my Trek 620 I've got maybe 5 or 6 mm between the fork crown and my tire (they weren't thinking about fenders when they designed that bike), but 10-12 mm on the sides – aside from the fender issue that seems adequate (although it might not be if I was riding tires with a large open tread that tended to pick up rocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final issue to keep in mind is that while the tires are spec'd as if they were round in cross section, many are not – the Schwalbe Marathon line for example is more oval than round, they account for this in their ISO sizes (they use the larger number, which on these tires is the radial dimension), but use the smaller size in the &quot;700c&quot; measurement. For example the 700x35c Marathon is a 37x622 in the ISO size. So to run this tire you'd need more &quot;extra&quot; radial clearance than side clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T14:21:26.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31893" CreationDate="2015-07-13T14:22:26.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The largest tire you can run on a bike is determined by several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frame (If it rubs on the frame when you're riding it, you're going to ruin the paint on your bike and the tire)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brakes (If your brakes can't clear the tire, you have a problem)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rim Width (If the rim is too narrow or wide for a tire, you can have increased chances of rim/tire damage or the tire roll off). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, a Surly Crosscheck will clear something like a 700x42 while a different road bike, like a Trek 1.5 will probably have trouble clearing something bigger than a 700x28.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T14:22:26.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31885" CreationDate="2015-07-13T14:30:22.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No -- You've got several problems here. 10 speed mountain Shimano has different cable pull than 10 speed road Shimano (which is the same cable pull as 9 speed mountain Shimano, I believe, so if you double check this, you can drop a 9 speed Deore in). Then, you have the mountain vs road FD, which if you're using brifters, you need to use a road FD. Front derailleurs are cheap anyway, so I don't see why you'd want to save money here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The V-brakes are pretty easy to deal with with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/travel_agents/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;travel agent&lt;/a&gt; (a pulley to let you use short pull levers with V-brakes) or you can use mini-V brakes and not use a travel agent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T14:30:22.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31876" CreationDate="2015-07-13T15:42:06.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My ideal packing includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tools:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hex keys to fit your bike : 2mm, 4mm, 5mm the most important, 6mm and 8mm. Some bikes use 2.5mm and 3mm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A T25 driver if you have disk brakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phillips and flat screwdrivers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain tool and a master link or two (may need to remove twisted links).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire Levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Patches, glue, extra tubes and pump or inflator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spare Valves, valve nuts, and vbrake nuts and spacers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crescent or adjustable wrench&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pliers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small knife&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small File&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sandpaper (Emery paper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Patches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually my toolbag consists of a bike specific multitool that has the hex keys, screwdrives and chaintool. An &quot;outdoors&quot; multitool from a hardware store that has the pliers, knife, pliers, can opener. A small (8 inch) crescent wrench and the patching kit. It all fits in one jersey pocket, a small pencil case or one pocket in the backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Food and Liquids:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fruits, cereal bars or peanuts. According to the trail and thinking what I would need in case of bike failure beyond on site repair possibilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For short rides (2 hours or less) I carry only water (600ml per hour), each extra hour add 600ml of isotonic or sports beverage. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is why I have two cycling backpacks of different sizes for mountain biking. For Road biking I fit my bike with 3 bottle holders and affix toolbags under the saddle or handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Others:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Personal documents, Identification and a card or bracelet indicating a contact number for emergencies, blood type and known allergies, if any.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Money in small denominations (Think of what is needed to buy a snack or beverage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phone and an on the go charger (extra battery or power bank)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protective eyewear, gloves, extra layer of clothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T20:55:06.863" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T20:55:06.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31860" CreationDate="2015-07-13T15:56:48.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it depends a lot on the specific manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually get around 1500 km (or more) out of SRAM and Shimano chains. I always buy the least expensive option and usually 9 speeds. (All of my bikes are 3x9 speed mountain bikes) And I ride mountain trails in muddy or otherwise very humid conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I clean after each ride if needed, but when the weather permits I skip cleaning up to 3 or 4 rides. I use Finish Line Wet lube, or 3 in 1 and even cheap 3 in 1 knockoffs usually sold in my country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except that I'm currently in another country, And used up an 8 speed Taya chain in just 500 km of city/road-ish riding and using Finish Line wax lube (A lube for dry conditions). I'm in a city that is almost flat, but it is very dusty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the short duration of this Taya Chain I switched to 8 speed Shimano Chain on Finish Line's dry lube. The change is at this point to soon to review, but as short as the first ride I noticed much better shifting performance and quieter operation under heavy load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T15:56:48.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31889" CreationDate="2015-07-13T16:12:52.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At 1.5k it has to be a hardtail. Rear suspensions need to be done right to be worth having in the first place. If I was a long-travel guy (I'm not) I would start looking at FS bikes once my budget passed 2k.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the frame, 1.5k would get you a cheap/heavy carbon frame or a top quality aluminum frame. I'd go aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above assumes that you are buying new...  I would consider buying used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I would get a used aluminum FS. I wouldn't mess with a used carbon bike, that can be risky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brand and model really doesn't matter if you know your components. If you have no clue how to identify good components, you should stick with big, well-known brands like Trek, Cannondale, Giant, Specialized, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T22:51:07.707" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T22:51:07.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31881" CreationDate="2015-07-13T17:56:11.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can afford gears, buy them. Having an uphill section at the end you will want to shift up in order to make it easier. Going the oposite direction you will also like the ability to go to a smaller gear to get a little more speed downhill. Looking at the pictures linked, it seemed the that the single speed have a rather small rear cog compared to the geared bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't handle shifting rapidly you can always leave it your geared bike in one speed, but at least you'll have the option of chaing it for those morning where you feel weaker or have less energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T17:56:11.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28720" CreationDate="2015-07-13T18:39:04.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two Nyon computers and I can assure you they both connect to WPA and WPA2 secured networks.&#xA;BUT&#xA;this doesn't work reliably! Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Often it takes a dozen attempts (and password re-entries) or more (!) to finally establish a connection.&#xA;Have you tried to disable bluetooth on the unit? As bluetooth is using a similar frequency band, this sometimes helps.&#xA;Also, you need to be very, very close to the router as the Nyon has a bad reception. Believe me, the problem is not your router - it is the Nyon.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20440" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T18:39:04.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11023" CreationDate="2015-07-13T19:26:37.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The notion that stiffness equals greater performance is more true in the lab than on the road. Sean Kelly won hundreds of races - often in sprints - throughout the 80s and he won most of those on a Vitus 979 aluminum bike that was probably the most flexible bike used in professional racing in the past 50 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty unlikely you'll notice much difference between the two frames. Also keep in mind that for the comparison to be accurate every single other part on the bike would have to be identical. Bars, stems, wheels, cranks all contribute to stiffness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:26:37.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31888" CreationDate="2015-07-13T19:39:01.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One semi-related tip: wrap the tube you carry with you in a sock or leave it in the box. I've wrenched at lots of centuries and multi-day rides and very often we get people coming in for mechanical help because they flatted, put in their spare tube and discovered it too was flat. The problem was the tube was sitting in the seat bag along with a multitool and other items. Over time the multitool would rub a hole in spare tube. This is also why presta valves come with a little plastic cap - it's to keep the metal tip from wearing a hole in the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:39:01.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31878" CreationDate="2015-07-13T20:08:53.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not that uncommon on mountain bikes. Many times a small pebble or trail or road debris is picked up by the tire and deposited in the pivots of the derailleur. It will sometimes dislodge if you shift onto the biggest ring. Other times you have to remove the object it by hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T20:08:53.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31908" CreationDate="2015-07-13T20:29:46.813" Score="1" ViewCount="1308" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might seem like a silly question but I would just rather confirm. I recently bought a new wheel set to replace my front wheel, as I was in an accident. However, I was unaware that Id need special tools to remove the cassette from the rear wheel frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd still like to be able to use my bike in the mean time, whilst I wait for the tools to be delivered. Would that be okay to use a mismatched wheel set for ~2 days (50 miles) until the tools arrive? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarification, the spec is the same, just weight and branding is different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10816" LastEditorUserId="10816" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T20:42:27.203" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T20:42:27.203" Title="Will I cause any damage with a mismatched wheel set?" Tags="&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31906" CreationDate="2015-07-13T20:40:16.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention what is mismatched about the wheel set, but if it fits the bike it is hard to imagine what kind of problems you might have. The worst that I can think of is at you'd alter the geometry a bit – for example if you have a 27&quot; rear wheel and a 700c front you'd be making the frame angles (relative to the ground) a bit steeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been riding a bike with that configuration (27&quot; rear, 700c front, and similar sized tires) for about six months will no ill effects that I've noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T20:40:16.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31906" CreationDate="2015-07-13T20:41:12.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can run different wheels in the front and back (different brands are fine). Heck, some bicycles have different sizes in the front and back (and are sold that way; 96ers and 69ers are examples)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing you need to make sure is that the wheel fits in the frame and the brakes work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T20:41:12.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31913" CreationDate="2015-07-13T21:50:10.367" Score="0" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about buying a vintage ('80s or '90s) frame for a 650b conversion. In my dreams I'm hoping to find a big frame (60+ cm) with long chain stays that was built for center pull or side pull brakes. I figure this means I want to go looking for old geometry charts and/or catalogs. I know about some sites, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintage-trek.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vintage Trek&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theheadbadge.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Headbadge&lt;/a&gt; (although I can't find much geometry information there) – are there others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T23:37:33.967" Title="Finding Geometry Information for Vintage Frames" Tags="&lt;vintage&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2015-07-13T21:56:40.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Catrike Villager. It weighs in at around 38lbs.  Compared to my old bicycle that weighed about 25lbs the Catrike Villager is faster downhill and on some paved flat trails. It fails to match bicycle speed uphill probably due to added weight and three wheel friction. However the pros of the Catrike over a bicycle are too numerous to tell here.  Seat comfort, no neck strain, freedom to move my hands around, fun, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20442" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T21:56:40.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31876" CreationDate="2015-07-13T22:09:01.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not much: A mini pump mounted on the bike, spare tube, tire leavers and the hex keys you might actually need in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vaude.com/en-BE/Products/Luggage-Bags/Bike-Bags/Carbo-Bag-black.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frame Bag&lt;/a&gt;. 1.5l of water with carbs (glucose and maltodextrin) as food. For longer rides an extra plastic bag with enough carbs for another 1.5l in the jersey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m usually experienced enough to pick the right clothing for several hours or a whole day. When the weather is a bit cooler I’m mostly using arm/leg warmers which can easily be rolled up or stored in the jersey pockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For colder weather around or below 0°C (273k) a good softshell jacket is surprisingly flexible and rarely gets too warm. Overshoes and gloves are important for long rides in colder weather and almost never get too warm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rides in the mountains I installed a third bottle cage to carry a raincoat (its stuffbag has the shape of a bottle), since the weather can get really harsh and unpredictable there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate carrying heavier stuff in jersey pockets and would highly recommend some kind of frame bag or saddle bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastEditorUserId="19529" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T05:57:47.097" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T05:57:47.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2015-07-13T23:33:38.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once got to borrow a Windcheetah trike for a week. On flats and downhills it was crazy fast and also an absolute blast to ride. For pure fun they're hard to beat! On hills of any real length it was distinctly slower. For me the biggest downside of a trike or recumbent is that you can only use one set of muscles because there's no way to change your position. This is very different from an upright bike where you can get out of the saddle and engage different muscles. This is why on long distance events such a Paris-Brest-Paris uprights still rule. I also found bumps and potholes more uncomfortable because there was no way to get out of the saddle to absorb the impact. If I'm going to do a long (300+km) ride I'd take an upright every single time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T23:33:38.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31909" CreationDate="2015-07-13T23:37:33.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a 650B conversion, the length of the chainstay is mostly irrelevant, because a fat 650Bx42 tire has about the same outer diameter as a 700Cx25 racing tire -- so it's rare to have too short of chainstays for a 650b conversion. And most of the appeal of a 650b conversion is that you can get the handling and feel of a compact sporty bike with the softer ride of wide tires, so I wouldn't discount short chainstays from your search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to look at it whether the bike will physically fit the wide tires, and that comes down to the width between the chainstays and the width between the fork blades. These clearances are hardly ever given on geometry sheets, so you'll either have to take a look at the bike in person, or see photos showing how much clearance there is between the existing tires and the fork and chainstays. Remember that the widest point of a 650b tire is at a smaller radius than the widest point of a 700c tire, so a frame may have more clearance for 650b tires than it looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to look at is how much reach your brakes will need. That's determined by the distance from the axle to the rear brake bridge in back, or from the axle to the hole in the fork crown in front. You want it long enough to clear the tire (+ fender if you're using fenders) but longer will just lead to spongy braking. If the bike you're looking at already uses 50+mm of reach to reach a 700c rim, it's longer than ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fastest and most reliable way to measure is just to try putting the wheels in the frame. If I were thinking of building a 650b conversion, I'd start by getting a 650b wheelset and tires and bring it with me while checking out craigslist frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15754" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T23:37:33.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31915" CreationDate="2015-07-13T23:41:31.363" Score="4" ViewCount="1821" Body="&lt;p&gt;It makes sense that ideally a wheel should be dished well (close to centered), but what are the consequences of a wheel being out of dish but otherwise true?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14133" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T20:14:26.207" Title="Is wheel dish important?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31914" CreationDate="2015-07-14T00:10:02.417" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, these are the only possible consequences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your tire may rub on your frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might have trouble getting your brakes to work (assuming you have rim brakes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your bike might run a bit sideways if your rear wheel is not centered on the frame. This can make riding no-hands difficult, because the bike wants to drift to the side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T20:14:26.207" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T20:14:26.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-14T00:32:39.937" Score="-2" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a high resolution image of the 2004 Cannondale Scalpel 900 Black bike. Preferably with a Lefty fork. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s5MX1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the highest resolution image I can find, 640x371 (but not even with the Left fork) but I would like one that is much more detailed. There used to be one image online but it is no longer available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm needing this image for a small publication I'm doing on older bikes. Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20443" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T01:45:01.327" Title="Looking for a high resolution image of a 2004 Cannondale Scalpel 900 Black XC Bike" Tags="&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-07-15T00:29:53.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31916" CreationDate="2015-07-14T01:45:01.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try Google Image search &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?tbs=sbi:AMhZZivs0CoKkGCv-olfqChiwh98SEDySUU2daCMyX8lulJhlpNfsj6kpk1Gsdt_1fXwXq20qZTE9vV7cXinxrQF-enco4JZ7JQx3OTZpQ6L5WeOF60gvqwgzPbSQz2zaJzS10Qd5apU9ajIIlGaDtn5ejamYGFCZ4mEY5TI_1si3ijeQDpMKE2toeVn4SPpeUHyDXUnk1P7p9d006N0X2mt44F0WtjDeBtbYMKOaVzp9YJJhvWRpcYeED1YyzGNsGFV8pj122X3K9Nn-8AzqlnC3Q9rS70cjRie_1LeQ33RHKYivFIyiPAu4KFSFTuELNXu_1PsJJ4ZFWvu_1wdIXYv0HUP8onky0IfCiRBeAt7w1szUs0Y8kX1UqHCvwsX34bsjtxDP-kG1VcKRWhTUt1plzDt1cypXgJduhIbQ6u-bMeWQtR2asfC6QozBFiMR8JQQ-PidsR6yeKbCZd3v3SKa4a6GSgtezL4SD_1floTihyB8Etd8CtjvLlP7qlevTXFaBhUbqojODxHI9kbm1_1wb_1ipKoEz3t2zgRX1PWbOq71xGDAox_1TzqRo5EFBxgcLPF2JyuCJPCDF2tjTpRw3a0C6B1Mr9Q_1zl9TEJyyRURxJKE8g-UnTrS0mWR_1HbaWNdfnoQsJ4h0uKJ5IkW-xreRN0Xrn10xv7QKmnsXWpKotZlkcAzDv4Q5TBiF7yL63z_1IcjsM7tuT2qkGYPID4ActD9M-a81C3pkzSD6aqSBRAXb26gO5LP1w8erhSOVH69EVayXW4Lvs0Khz3e-90YYvns3-PbaAzvl2Xkj1XrtOKq-tidRQ6yxNIDsoHQlMamLkYREm1ylmAxki2BsrLPOK9OgYvjLzWwt54MOW3ydYb3CysLQZz5Di0usuqY84Qvx83tgBrwPdTcMAMGTVJANuGt7xL24qwGAsLMlW9c8QWPghZJ3BrQa-_1rUffBR_1lSY1UNCsOuKpXWDnMPEqV9kvgoye2lj9Zaw-QC-Sg_1FflyuuDcud7hudYZAOllb1aChYY_1CFuM85e7olqnratuoB5fK8beSZEAJOuiouuea-QY7ySC-rEn8cC5IUZW-q9-krUAhz9vOoJXqMo0zG9RvdFeJW1vAwUV2_1pBkpoYvcuf5tUwvj4L4zuBaumt3Ar8qcyfDsZdhxrK1ROwj4h86TqQJg532mT7S4Cnbekt4QvB9PcDPzJOCIql9xDq8JkCDst8kNWAIfNg_1Z6ifsK-UiygWYBTcra0x716lWIPjND_1VHIvgDReP7z_18F2DrJChsaiL-JkfAKvMhVY1OrpvEwsblg78aQM97MKknaIfrRMUiYI8h9YQ_1vvNuiwTl5R_1JYAcY3vCFLOzQIBJjKBqCDoxM_1TKtEoCerfoaa88JqgKmm9k6Sub0py5Iv6FT3XS0xK7jLZ7rZ-MRm2lafU7oUDzZgBJEm81RuWBLxm11Io5fiOdv-AYDh7MTDtZODkGLFXqrZUA8MVzBoxN-JXoEOqo8gV8sKcpaa0OXdjHoAtgQWm6nUEDgWBzEwUCKVuXcjnhUEJsT3YF5o2X2j4ki-DYP4u09VJ2Hq7odhznsN4KW-QRMuSfZtR4QT3RbKPnicQFDiQ_1ZUBPiAsHLmEzCdDd8xoiuX5t2gQsNjkTqlV35jnlk-85Qbg7gJVt_1Xs3tsWGnDxiySP2JO1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;based on your image&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=cannondale%20scalpel%20900%20&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;tbs=simg:CAQSiwEaiAELEKjU2AQaBAgDCAoMCxCwjKcIGl8KXQgDEidCoAKfAqMGsQeiBqEG0AKkBpkDkiCiIcMrrSGhIdsmriHaJt8i3SYaMHbjA1hN6L6RmKmbYibU5XLPtjscVTbjECTj_1treT0nzMcpIlFgJ0C9jhYjRJOGq_1QwLEI6u_1ggaCgoICAESBGd4nKEM,isz:l&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0CBwQ2A4oA2oVChMIg-aj1b7ZxgIVwpMeCh3zFADL&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=1075#tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=cannondale%20scalpel%20900&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;based on the bike's name&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I found :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.victorsbikes.byethost13.com/cannondale/scalpel2000.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lefty white and blue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdetails.info/bikes/img/274-large.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lefty white and red&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://images.evanscycles.com/product_image/image/ee7/62d/a7f/52522/cannondale-scalpel-carbon-1-2011-mountain-bike.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hi res lefty white, but suspension is different&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T01:45:01.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16193" CreationDate="2015-07-14T02:13:11.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might find the &lt;a href=&quot;http://calfeedesign.com/tech-papers/geometry-of-bike-handling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Geometry of Bike Handling&lt;/a&gt; on Calfee Design's site helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some good articles by Grant Petersen on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?cat=20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bike making&lt;/a&gt; at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rivbike.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rivendell site&lt;/a&gt; that cover some aspects of geometry and bike design. He also has a good section on geometry in his book &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bo17.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Just Ride&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once upon a time there was a nice series of articles on the Rivendell site where Grant walked through the process of designing a bike, but I can't find them anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T02:13:11.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-14T02:16:24.213" Score="0" ViewCount="33237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding road bikes for years but really wasn't too aware that there appear to be two different tire sizes, for example a 23C and a 23. ( 700 x 23. And 700 x 23c )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20445" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T04:12:19.327" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T15:35:32.867" Title="What is the difference between a road bicycle tire size 700 x 23c and I 700 x 23" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-07-15T00:28:50.177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31919" CreationDate="2015-07-14T02:36:16.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;700x23 and 700x23C and 700C x 23 and 700x23c and 700x23c all mean the same size of tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T02:36:16.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31921" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-14T02:44:32.673" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T02:44:32.673" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T02:44:32.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31922" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-14T02:44:32.673" Score="0" Body="Cycling specific software – use this tag for both mobile apps and desktop software." OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T05:26:47.457" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T05:26:47.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-14T08:49:42.483" Score="1" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been cycling long-term in hills and over the last few years without clipless pedals. Over time I have found the hills to be easier to climb, but have noticed a dramatic decrease in my running ability, and recently on holiday found it difficult to walk long distances as well without pain and stiffness. Is this because of increased leg muscle (weight)? Should I get clipless pedals again?&#xA;Any thoughts? &#xA;Thanks in advance! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20447" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T22:46:34.740" Title="Cycling without clipless pedals and groin weakness" Tags="&lt;clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="41135" CreationDate="2015-07-14T11:20:17.233" Score="5" ViewCount="1756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the popular Shimano, Nexus 7 speed, internal gear hub. After removing the back wheel to replace the old tire, I've found that changing gears especially from 5 to 6 and 6 to 7 (especially the latter) is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; tight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's however still possible, and all the gear shifting seems to work as it should, except the very tight pull required in the higher gears.&#xA;The gears are adjusted (the red dots point at each other perfectly in gear 4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what could be causing this, and/or what I could do to fix it back to normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20451" LastEditorUserId="20451" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T12:49:20.713" LastActivityDate="2018-02-18T18:03:20.120" Title="Shimano Nexus 7 speed IGH, high gears tight shift" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31926" CreationDate="2015-07-14T12:21:27.020" Score="1" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have/love my old Trek 7700 Multitrack, but it's fallen into some disrepair over the years including being in a flood (thanks Hurricane Sandy!)  I've been told by my LBS that it's not worth repairing, but I'd like to give it a try even though I've never done more than fix flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I see it, I need to replace my BB, repair the Rolf Vector rims (spokes) and repair/replace the hubs.  I'll have to look deeper into any drivetrain problems, but I'll assume some of it would need to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if these repairs can be done for around $300?  I know that's a bit vague and that I may be better off with a new bike, but I'd like to experience stripping it down and rebuilding it.  Any words of advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20418" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T15:35:42.613" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T13:55:20.107" Title="Attempting to Rebuild a 2000 Trek 7700 Multitrack" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31925" CreationDate="2015-07-14T12:48:54.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, the quick answer is to take inventory of what is wrong with the bike, and start by fixing the things that seem possible. I'd be inclined to start with the absolute basics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the brakes work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tires hold air, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That you've got at least one gear that works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just take it slow and fix things one at a time, aiming for a bike that you're not afraid to ride in an empty parking lot, then for one that shifts, and so on…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably go to the library to get a good book on bicycle maintenance, maybe one of Zinn's books, but you could Google, or ask here – whatever feels like the right way to get the information you need. If you're in a city of any size check to see if there is a bicycle co-op where you can take the bike to hang out and work on it. You're real likely to have fun, get some good advice, and learn your way around the world of bicycle tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an old bike that's been flooded you should probably think about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing brake and shift cables and housings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning, lubricating, and adjusting the headset, bottom bracket, pedals, and wheel bearings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lubricating and maybe replacing the chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding a bit of penetrating oil to all of the spokes so that they're likely to move when you want to adjust them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may need to replace the free hub body (or soak it in a good penetrating lubricant like Kroil).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you keep in mind that this is a learning project and something that is supposed to be fun, you can putter away at fixing things and understanding how to work on a bike. Undoubtably you'll find things that you &quot;should&quot; spend money on – but that doesn't mean you have to. If the bearing races in your hub are shot, you could get a new wheel, or you could replace the balls, add plenty of grease, and adjust them as best you can. It will work for a while, maybe a long while and you'll have learned something and saved some money. In the meantime keep an eye on craigslist for a deal on a wheelset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you approach it as a learning experience with a budget, I think you can easily get by for $300.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T13:09:11.790" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T13:09:11.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31923" CreationDate="2015-07-14T12:51:27.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think they are related and I don't think clip-less pedal will change anything. It's probably age or lack of running training that make it harder to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotal evidence : my friend is running and cycling pretty fast, but I can only cycle fast, I'm an abysmal runner. He runs multiple times a week while I rarely run more than once a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of triathletes who run and cycle pretty fast, if cycling would be bad for running, they wouldn't be able to do both of them at that level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T12:51:27.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31919" CreationDate="2015-07-14T14:19:38.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are indeed the same size of tire. For some reason, the &quot;c&quot; gets shuffled about, sometimes being put after the 700, sometimes being put after the tire width (in this case, 23mm), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peruse Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-tires.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire Cribsheet&lt;/a&gt;, and if you want lots of fun facts about tire sizing (including the difference between French standards and ISO standards), read Sheldon's article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tire Sizing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20452" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T15:35:32.867" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T15:35:32.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31929" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-14T15:02:31.597" Score="4" ViewCount="19984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know little about all of this, so, go easy on me. I've got a mountain bike, fairly light in weight and rarely ever used for anything other than road use. The current tires say 58-559 / 26x2.35. Is it possible to go for thinner tires with the same Rim and how much will this affect the ride? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20454" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T01:06:42.547" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T14:59:44.880" Title="Thinner tires for my Mountain Bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31929" CreationDate="2015-07-14T15:28:17.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you want for road use is slick tires -- tread and knobs are bad for road use. You have 26&quot; (ISO 559) rims, so you need 26 x (something) tires where (something) is a number in decimal form (e.g. 1.75). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going for smaller tires will lower the bike a bit, and smaller tires have to be run at higher pressure (so you'll get less cushioning). There will also be changes in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rolling_resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rolling resistance&lt;/a&gt; (You may want to read the whole &quot;Tech Info&quot; column on the right side of the Schwalbe page).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how small you can go, technically you can mount pretty much any 26x(something in decimal) tire on, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rim width&lt;/a&gt; should ideally be of the right width so the tire doesn't roll off or increase the risk of flats or rim damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably look at something with a puncture protection belt, like the Schwalbe Marathon Plus (26 x 2.00 will likely be one of the larger slicks they sell, and you can likely go narrower depending on the rim width). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T12:28:10.117" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T12:28:10.117" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23705" CreationDate="2015-07-14T19:49:37.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is a really old question. But in case anybody stumbles upon this while trying to figure out the answer, as I did, I did find these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikedabs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikedabs.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20460" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T19:49:37.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31841" CreationDate="2015-07-15T00:22:17.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only problem that you might run into with a spacer is that you'd loose the fit on the curve of the fork, so the light might be little more likely to flop to the side. I would think that a rubber or leather washer would handle that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need anything as fancy as a purpose built part. Your local hardware store will most likely have box upon box of little bits of odd hardware and among them you can find spacers in various lengths, along with longer bolts if you need them. You might want to get a couple of metal washers as well to provide a solid clamping surface. Or buy the fancy mount…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can offer advice where I wasn't asked, you might want to consider mounting the light higher or farther forward. I really don't like the shadow of the front tire that mine casts when it is mounted at the fork crown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T00:22:17.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31876" CreationDate="2015-07-15T00:23:10.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone's going to have different list depending on how confident they are of getting assistance in an emergency or gear breakage. I do some solo rides into the forests in New Zealand. When in the forest alone I do tend to stick to 4x4 tracks where a may see one person an hour but also take jungle tracks alongside the road and very rarely see anyone. I carry  a small reservoir pack and also use my pockets to carry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gear Repair&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;compact multitool (covers all screws and bolts on my bike - I have ht2 cranks so don't have to worry about big hex for crank bolt)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chain break&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare master link&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cable ties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;small pill bottle of lube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spare tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyre boot patches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tube glue patches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyre levers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 spare tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake pads if a long distance ride (50+km)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sustenance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2l water pack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;700ml electrolyte drink (in bottle cage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;peanut butter/ nutella sandwiches&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high energy snack bar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chocolate bar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;additional electrolyte tabs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;energy gels (sometimes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clothing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;windproof/ shower proof layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;polypropylene layer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;emergency blanket (sometimes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't tend to carry additional food, just enough for my planned ride and maybe an hours delay. If I had a catastrophic gear failure I'd (and have done) single speed the bike and take the shortest route home (this sucks btw). My biggest concern is punctures. I always carry at least one extra layer of warmth, no matter how warm it is outside you start to cool very quickly when you get off the bike and stop moving. If I get off the bike for any length of time I put a shell jacket on until I'm at a good temp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T00:23:10.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21445" CreationDate="2015-07-15T00:36:12.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing'a'ma'bobber we're discussing would solve the problem that the Park article alludes to. I used to make fairings for depth sounders on boats by mounting the sounder and then taping neatly around where the sounder didn't meet the hull and forcing in epoxy goop (technical term there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you could do something very similar by wrapping the cable firmly, but not so firmly that it would distort the cable, with tape. Leave a small hole into which you can squirt some RTV caulk (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/adhesives-sealants/sealants/permatex-clear-rtv-silicone-adhesive-sealant-detail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here's one example from Permatex&lt;/a&gt;, but there are many others). Let it cure then you can do the final taping. It may try and stick to the bars and cable, but that's a good thing. It will peel off when the time comes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T00:36:12.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30616" CreationDate="2015-07-15T01:00:41.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The braking loads are unlikely to be enough to exceed the tensile strength of a 6 mm bolt – forgive my butchering of units here, but it would take something like 2,250 pounds of force to make a 6 mm bolt fail (75,000 psi tensile strength for type 18-8 or 316 stainless and about 0.03 square inches in the bolt works out to around 2,250 pounds of force). That's load at failure, but it seems like the limiting load on the brakes will be about the weight of the bike and rider. That means that even a big rider on a heavy touring bike isn't capable of much more than about 400 pounds of load. I found my data &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fastenal.com/en/76/metric-system-and-specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So structurally, I think you're sound. You can have a pretty bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T01:00:41.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7979" CreationDate="2015-07-15T02:50:35.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike should be comfortable and make you smile when you ride it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do some reading about bicycle fit (I highly recommend Grant Peterson's book &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bo17.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Just Ride&lt;/a&gt; for a nice readable introduction to fitting a bicycle and all sorts of other information). Then buy a used bike that fits your needs as best you understand them – and that seems to fit. You'll be lucky if your first bike is &quot;right&quot; but it will help you figure out what you really want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Towards that end I'd suggest going in search of your &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/254#254&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt; (local bicycle shop) – not the one nearest to you, although they can be handy too, but the one that makes you feel like a welcome and valued member of the community. Part of their job is to help you figure out what kind of bicycles make you happiest…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good LBS will sponsor rides and will be a focal point of the local biking community. If you're lucky you'll find a bicycle collective, or a co-op, or just a bunch of folks for whom the LBS is as much a mission as a paycheck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T02:50:35.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29242" CreationDate="2015-07-15T04:38:52.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have good measuring tools (and know how to use them, but that's not too hard) it will be very hard to tell the difference between 25.4 mm and 26 mm – until you try to fit the bars in, then it will be obvious…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a bike of that vintage odds are good (according to my recollection and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-handlebars.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's Crib Sheet&lt;/a&gt;) that the size is 25.4 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what you should do is by a set of 25.4 mm bars (ideally from a nice LBS that you want to support anyway) and see if they fit. If they don't and you can't return them get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb91.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;0.3 mm shim&lt;/a&gt; – Nitto and I think some other make them. If you're feeling flush get it with the bars just in case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T04:38:52.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31947" CreationDate="2015-07-15T08:25:08.477" Score="7" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a website that has a map of bicycle paths in Europe that are bike/walkers only, i.e. no cars?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2495" LastActivityDate="2019-01-09T11:42:17.200" Title="Website with bicycle only paths in Europe?" Tags="&lt;travelling&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T11:25:01.600" Score="3" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just yesterday, I was riding my mountain bike along a sidewalk and out of nowhere hit a stop sign pole mounted in the middle of the side walk. I guess that’s what happens when you get too preoccupied with the scenery around you while going at 20 mph (32 kph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crash created a really strong jerk that forcefully pushed me and my bike backwards. I was unharmed and still managed to stay on the bike seat; however, my bike acted rather strangely — it seemed that the force of the collision somehow adjusted my gears to the lowest setting, without me even touching the shifters on the handlebars. I assume that because right after the collision, I went to test ride the bike and noticed the pedals were turning really quickly, as if the gears were on the lowest configuration (I don’t know whether it was the front, back, or both gears). At that moment I knew something was wrong. But, after 5 additional seconds of anxious pedaling, the gears readjusted themselves back to their original setting I had them in before the crash. Again, this was without me touching the shifters. Fortunately, the bike seems to be in decent condition now, but what are your guys’ thoughts on the weird automated gear shifts? Is this normal? The bike looks Ok, but then again, I'm new to biking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20468" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2017-02-09T05:25:50.620" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T05:25:50.620" Title="Weird gear ratio for a couple of seconds after crash" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31944" CreationDate="2015-07-15T13:40:01.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crash made the chain drop from the currently selected front chainring to a smaller one (i.e if you have 3 rings and you where on the middle, it jumped on the 1st - lefmost- smaller one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crash didn't change any gear on the shifter though, it just made the chain pop to a smaller ring. Maybe not fully, but partially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards cranking a couple of pedal strokes made you feel that the pedals where &quot;moving fast&quot;. After a while though, and since the front deraileur was still in the original position (maybe middle ring), the chain moved again back to the middle ring making the gearing ratio as previous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dropping the chain is common in MTBs without a chain guide. What happened to you is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T13:40:01.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31942" CreationDate="2015-07-15T14:28:54.090" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google Maps has a Bicycling overlay that can help you. It does have a few indication that states what type of road you have :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trails    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bicycle-friendly roads   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dedicated lanes&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirt/unpaved trails&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you might check those dedicated lanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An other option would be to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://labs.strava.com/heatmap/#5/3.81680/45.15980/gray/bike&quot;&gt;Strava's Global Heatmap&lt;/a&gt; where you can see where people are cycling the most. You can't really see what you want exactly (dedicated lanes), but coupled with Google's map, I find it's a good start to plan a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T14:28:54.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31942" CreationDate="2015-07-15T14:30:00.687" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.openstreetmap.org&quot;&gt;OpenStreetMap&lt;/a&gt; (a collaborative project to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OpenStreetMap&quot;&gt;create a free editable map of the world&lt;/a&gt;) has a very up to date and accurate cycle route layer available. I have used it before in Europe to plan large trips.  There are also lots of online add-on services that allow you to use the cycling OpenStreetMap to plan cycling routes and run them either on smart phones or on GPS cycling computers. Garmin has even used the service to create the specialized maps on their Edge GPS cycling computers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some example services include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeroutetoaster.com/&quot;&gt;BikeRouteToaster&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://connect.garmin.com/&quot;&gt;Garmin Connect&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;... more to come (or add them in the comments)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, other proprietary services such as Google maps also have good (and constantly improving) cycling maps.  I however personally find OpenStreetMap is a little more up-to-date and accurate, likely due to the fact anyone can submit a fixes and new pathways.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T14:36:54.287" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T14:36:54.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31876" CreationDate="2015-07-15T14:32:00.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedalingnowhere.com/gear/bikepacking-repair-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bikepacking Repair Kit&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pedalingnowhere.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pedaling Nowhere&lt;/a&gt;. I like the way it is broken down into components of a tool kit and spares collection. There is some good stuff in the comments section too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T14:32:00.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31959" CreationDate="2015-07-15T14:46:16.510" Score="1" ViewCount="4503" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my single speed bike--a POS J Fixie Cafe CF from BikesDirect--has an issue with its back wheel. The wheel wobbles 1cm back and forth when pulled/pushed from side to side. The freewheel has been making noises since the day I got it. The noises are KLINK! KLONK! every time I pedal. I believe that this is due to  a bit of a warp on the frame that makes the tire asymmetrical to the frame. Basically the left seat stay is slightly larger than the right one. (The lesson here is not to buy from BikesDirect, but go to a LBS.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, what can I do to fix this? Do I need to get a whole new back hub? Freewheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14679" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T20:10:59.413" Title="How can I fix my back wheel's wobbling?" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T15:26:43.933" Score="1" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like a way to secure my front fork/handlebars so they are always pointing directly forward when I load my bike on my roof rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes it hard to get the fork on the fork mount when the fork is turning as I struggle to get it up there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an idea how to do this?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12874" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T20:55:01.600" Title="Secure front fork when mounting on roof rack" Tags="&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T16:06:55.820" Score="2" ViewCount="2203" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are cassettes all standard as fare as fit on the wheel?  For example, can I can swap out a new Shimano for my old SRAM without looking at specifications for fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20471" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T19:16:49.680" Title="MTB Cassettes- are they universal to wheels" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T16:21:17.430" Score="6" ViewCount="3647" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good afternoon all!  In previous questions, I've mentioned that I intend to rebuild my 2000 Trek 7700 Multitrack.  Well, I'm beginning by replacing the bottom bracket.  According to the spec sheet I got from Vintage-Trek.com, the BB is Shimano BB-LP27 73x113.  I've searched for BB-LP27 73x113 and come up empty.  I assumed this is an obsolete part, but there must be a current part which will serve the same purpose.  How do I decipher what current part would work in this application?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm adding the technical sheet I found on vintage-trek.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JzNgx.png&quot; alt=&quot;2000 Trek 7700 Multitrack  Technical&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20418" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T04:37:26.463" Title="Bottom Bracket Compatability Question" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21445" CreationDate="2015-07-15T17:52:27.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I wrenched for a cross team we just taped over the housing. We also would position the levers further out (unless you're running narrow bars.) Keep in mind there's no need to pull the tape so tight that it would bend the cable housing. You want to pull the tape just snug enough so it doesn't slip. If you get to the end of the bar and let go of the tape it shouldn't unravel. If it does you likely pulled it too tight. Also no need to use so much electrical tape at the end. If you want a really clean look cut end of the tape at a 45 degree angle so it lies flat when you finish wrapping and hold it in place with a dot of superglue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T17:52:27.083" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30577" CreationDate="2015-07-15T18:13:26.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It impacts weight distribution which in turn can impact handling. It also impacts front center. Bike geometry is more complicated than people think. I hear people all the time say a frame with a 57cm top tube will have more reach than a frame with a 56cm top tube. This isn't necessarily true because of the seat tube angle.  Team mechanics usually rely on a form similar to this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/USACWeb/forms/mechanics/RoadPositionChart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://s3.amazonaws.com/USACWeb/forms/mechanics/RoadPositionChart.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a team switches bike manufacturers or a rider needs a new bike built up we'll pull out this sheet and use it to assemble the bike. The most important numbers are the distance form the center of the BB axle to the top of the center of the saddle and also the horizontal distance from the tip of the saddle to a line drawn straight up though the center of the BB axle. These two numbers determine where your butt is in relation to the pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next most important numbers are saddle to bar reach and horizontal drop from saddle to bars. The chart above shows saddle to bar distance being measured to the stem clamp but most pro mechanics I've seen prefer to measure to brake hoods to account for differences in forward reach from one bar to another (important if switch bar brands) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing is to figure out the position the rider needs to be in and adapt the bike to that and not the other way around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you're not a pro racer it's handy to have one of these forms filled out. It's surprising how even a minor change can have a major impact. I've known more than a few riders who developed knee pain after switching shoes or pedals. Turned out the new shoes/pedals were a few mm thinner/thicker than the old models and they failed to adjust their saddle height accordingly resulting in strain on the knees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T18:13:26.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31950" CreationDate="2015-07-15T20:01:40.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A warped frame will not cause wobble when the wheel is moved by hand.  A warped frame can cause wobble when riding at speeds since the wheel is not straight.  However, if the wheel has play (moves side to side without rotating) in the frame, then the hub is not properly adjusted or is damaged.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise issues could be from any number places and should probably be looked at as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct in the lesson, but perhaps not in the reasoning.  Buying from a LBS should ensure you are purchasing a properly assembled and adjusted bicycle.  Hub adjustments (like the issue you are describing) are one of the many build steps a good shop will perform when assembling a new bicycle.  It's part of why you are paying a higher price at your LBS instead of an internet warehouse with no overhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T20:01:40.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31950" CreationDate="2015-07-15T20:10:59.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I think you are saying is that when you stand beside the bike and push it side-to-side you can see the wheel wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That sounds to me like the bearings in the rear hub need to be adjusted. They don't need to be far out for it to cause significant movement at the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T20:10:59.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31952" CreationDate="2015-07-15T20:28:40.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are currently 4 MTB freehub/cassette standards for SRAM/Shimano drive trains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 speed - Shimano/SRAM - based on Shimano HG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8/9/10 speed - Shimano/SRAM (a 7 speed cassette with a 4.5mm spacer also fits) based on Shimano HG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano 11 speed - fits an 8/9/10 freehub (MTB only) - based on Shimano HG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SRAM 11 speed - XD driver freehub - SRAM proprietary system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo has two spline patterns also, 8 speed and 9/10 speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you a running a SRAM 1x drivetrain it's generally safe to say cassettes will be compatible for the same number of gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T19:16:49.680" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T19:16:49.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T20:33:34.990" Score="0" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the things that has come up in &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2015/07/news/van-garderen-alters-rest-day-protocol_378092&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reports&lt;/a&gt; during the first rest day in the Tour de France this year is that the first mountain stage, especially following the rest day, is a shock to the legs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this, from a physiological level? What specific things can a rider do to more effectively make this transition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11045" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T12:26:08.687" Title="First stage post-rest day in the Tour" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;racing-strategy&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19044" CreationDate="2015-07-15T20:46:32.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely would only be able to brake comfortably from the drop position due to the excessive down angling of the handlebar ramp region.  This would especially be true for older style brake levers like you have shown in the picture as these levels have shorter reach and less material to place your hands on when on the hoods.  In the old style road cockpits the hands were meant to rest on the ramping region of the handlebar, with only a small portion of your hand on the hoods when in the hood braking position.  For this bar it would place your hand at a very awkward angle, especially when setting up the lever to brake correctly from the drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the advent of the modern compact cockpit, the brifters/brake levers have become half of the &quot;ramp&quot; region where you place your hands.  Modern Tektro road brake levers follow this ergonomic convention so, will have more reach and therefore a larger area to rest your hands on than older style brake levers. Depending on the size of your hands, this may be enough of a ramp when braking from the hoods.  Modern road brake levers also are a bit longer which may also give you more placement options on those bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T20:46:32.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31951" CreationDate="2015-07-15T20:55:01.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I take it you are talking about the process of loading the bike, not when the bike is up there and the car is in movement (since most bike racks have a kind of trough that keeps the front wheel aligned). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have done on occasion is to loosen the handlebar and turn it backwards about 75 degrees relative to the fork. The handlebar is then more or less aligned with the front wheel. Re-tighten the handlebar in this position. Then a bungee or other elastic material can be used to fix the handlebar to the horizontal frame bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does mean using an Allen key in most cases, but I figure it is worth getting the key out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19784" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T20:55:01.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31942" CreationDate="2015-07-15T21:19:22.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of roads in Germany and Austria are bicycle only. Usually these are less frequented roads, turned into bike tours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is a very nice road from Lienz in Austria, to Italy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bicyclegermany.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bicyclegermany.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hikebikemap.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hikebikemap.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fahr-radwege.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fahr-radwege.com/&lt;/a&gt; (Austria)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eurovelo.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.eurovelo.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.suedtirolerland.it/de/rad-mountainbike/fahrradwege-in-suedtirol/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.suedtirolerland.it/de/rad-mountainbike/fahrradwege-in-suedtirol/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T21:19:22.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T23:56:25.157" Score="0" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently own a specialized sirrus comp, and I was wondering if I could swap all the parts on that bike other than the frame to a demo 8 frame with 200mm of travel. If it is possible to add full suspension to my road bike, that would be prefered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20476" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T10:40:49.443" Title="road bike to road bike with mountain bike fram with full suspension" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31965" CreationDate="2015-07-16T00:07:30.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding rear suspension to an existing bike not designed for rear suspension is hard - you'd have to cut the tubes, weld them and make sure the result is safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding front suspension to a bike is not so hard, but it will change the geometry. You need to find the specs of the fork and headset that are in the bike already, and then find something compatible (threadless/threaded, steerer tube diameter). However, adding a front suspension to a bike which wasn't really designed for it is not necessarily advisable -- the rest of it may not hold up to the abuse you may be thinking of giving the bike after you put on a fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in DWGKNZ's answer, you can't swap a lot of the parts (the Specialized Demo 8 uses pressfit BB, so you'll get a new crank at the minimum), but given the tools required and the fact that the sirrus comp is a nice bike, you're better off selling it and buying new parts. On top of that, the parts for mountain biking (e.g. derailleurs, etc.) are built more robustly for mountain biking than for the road so you'd likely want to buy better parts anyway (esp. for a nice frame like a Demo 8). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T10:40:49.443" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T10:40:49.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31965" CreationDate="2015-07-16T01:47:21.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from these being very different frames with very different uses you won't have much luck transferring parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of your bike there is very little that would fit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wheels - &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;won't fit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - the demo 8 has a 650b wheel (27.5&quot;) the sirrus has a 700c wheel (29&quot;) and a thru axle vs quick release hub. (incidentally both are 135mm rear hubs though)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fork/ headset - &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;won't fit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - the demo 8 has a 1.5&quot; headtube the sirrus a 1 1/8&quot; headtube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bottom bracket/ cranks - &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;won't fit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - the demo 8 has a press fit bb and 83mm crank, the sirrus a threaded square taper bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brakes - &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;won't fit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - the demo 8 only has posts for disc brakes the sirrus comp has mini v brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drive train - &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;some will fit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - you will be able to reuse the chain, cassette, rear derailleur and shifter (although not a trigger shifter, it could work). Cables will need to be replaced and significantly longer on the demo 8.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seat post - &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;won't fit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - different size.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sundries - so you would be able to use your seat, pedals, grips, stem and bar (if you bought a single crown fork). Although if you were buying a 200mm travel fork to match the demo 8 you'd require a direct mount stem and thicker bar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the simple answer is decide what you want a bike for, sell the one you have and buy one that suits. If you want a full suspension bike to ride on the road I suggest you look at a low travel 29&quot; full suspension XC mountain bike as a starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T01:47:21.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9122" CreationDate="2015-07-16T07:32:33.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is another reason which has not been mentioned - the rear hub uses a ratchet mechanism which grabs the wheel in one direction and lets it spin free (coast) in the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be two or more of these spring loaded &quot;wings,&quot; called pawls, that grab teeth inside the freehub body or freewheel, this is where the clicking sound comes from.  In some cases, because of defective parts or bad assembly the ratchet may not be working (e.g., a stuck spring, a missing or broken pawl, or broken ratchet teeth). Then you will get a skipping action in the drivetrain but the chain itself is not jumping over teeth or trying to change gears. In fact you wont see the chain jump at all. The skipping is the pawls moving all at once until they catch again on the ratchet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20481" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T20:19:40.390" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T20:19:40.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29909" CreationDate="2015-07-16T08:27:31.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert at any of this or know a lot. I'm just looking around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the looks of it, it almost exactly looks like my Collegiate Schwinn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure it's the same but they have the same body style decal shape and grip. But mine only has a front brake and is a 3 speed with a coaster brake. I think it's called a 3 speed fixed gear rim/hub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for value I'm not sure. I got it off a private owner for $60 but, for me it would be worth the restoration it is a great and comfortable ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20482" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T14:23:26.093" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T14:23:26.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-16T08:51:17.087" Score="1" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have raced my Fort Bike for some time now. The head tube holding the forks has split /cracked open. What do I do now, who do I contact ?&#xA;Dennis &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20483" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T00:27:02.110" Title="Fort Frame head tube cracked" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31929" CreationDate="2015-07-16T11:08:41.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible. For typical mountain rims, the low limit is somewhere around 28mm. Some differences from mounting narrower tires are following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Less cushioning from tires: Smaller tires can not absorb as much shock from from curbs, cracks in the pavement, etc. On the other hand, smaller tires can be made with more flexible casing and absorb small vibrations better.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Quicker steering: With wide tires friction resists steering more than with narrower ones. Depending on the geometry, the bike will be either more agile or feel nervous. Smaller rotational inertia from lighter tires will add to the feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rolling resistance: It is true that for similar tires with similar pressure the wider one has lower rolling resistance. However, narrower tires can be made more flexible and use higher air pressure so the difference is not that great. For example, compare the numbers for 4 bars with narrow tires and 2.5 bars for wide ones: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fietsersbond.nl/sites/default/files/test_schwalbe.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.fietsersbond.nl/sites/default/files/test_schwalbe.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reduced height: The entire bike will be a centimeter or two lower&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Looks: Large empty spaces in forks can look strange to some people. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="10595" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T16:16:48.430" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T16:16:48.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31961" CreationDate="2015-07-16T12:20:38.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot answer the physiological aspect in any detail, however my understanding is that, given a recovery day with little activity, your muscles will begin the first phase of healing [inflamation etc], this is also coupled with your legs being heavy with toxins from the previous days racing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid this, the healing part can be improved via active recovery - riding the bike. Everyone is different as to how much riding and how intense it has to be. I have heard Lemond, Fignon &amp;amp; Kelly et al state that experienced riders know what effort they have to do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards intensity: Lemond talks of doing anaerobic efforts on recovery days to trigger testosterone production, the increased testosterone levels aid recovery. Of course some riders have been known to just use illegal testosterone patches.  Getting the amount of intense effort on recovery days is critical, do too much effort on your recovery day and you don't recover, you do more damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding recovery ride time: this is about flushing out those toxins by getting more blood flow to damaged muscles, oxygen and nutrients in the blood help the muscle to recover more quickly. This is the easy very low effort part of the recovery ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The body becomes used to the effort and if you stop, it can seize up - become stiff; the above factors, intensity and ride time impact that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to the Mountains vs non Mountains stages, the type of effort is considerable different to flatter or rolling stages; you will use more watts on a long climb, there is less opportunity to coast or get dragged along in the slipstream, and, you use more fluids due to the higher effort and there being less of a cooling effect from the wind as you are going slower.&#xA;In the mountains, it can feel like doing weights as the cadence is lower and the effort higher - so the build up of toxins in the muscles is higher; the flatter stages involve more opportunity to spin-out for periods whereby its like a mini recovery ride within the stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13876" LastEditorUserId="13876" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T12:26:08.687" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T12:26:08.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36140" CreationDate="2015-07-16T12:33:23.357" Score="5" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I got the Giant Revolt 3 and have been riding it for a few days now. I have lately noticed that there is some rubbing noise when I apply the brakes. If you look at this picture (might be a bit hard to tell), there is a needle or some kind of gauge on top of the brake lever. When I got my bike, I believe they were in the middle, now my left one is all the way to the left, and my right is somewhat off centre. I'm not sure what they necessarily mean, but they have something to do with the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rNORA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bike photo looking back over the handlebars&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I called the bike shop where I bought this bike and they told me I would have to pay $60 for a tune up, and I don't plan to upfront that much money right now if it is an easy fix. I believe the problem is that since the bike is new, I might have to tighten up my brakes because the wires get stretched?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes that are on my bike are mechanical disk brakes. If someone could tell me what might be wrong I would greatly appreciate it. I fell on my bike once because of a pot hole and scraped one side of the handle bar, but I don't think this is the cause since the needles were starting to get off centre before I fell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if you need more information to help me out. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20487" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T03:42:44.410" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T04:08:40.373" Title="How do I get rid of weird rubbing noise on my cx bike?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;mechanical&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31990" CreationDate="2015-07-16T14:05:01.227" Score="17" ViewCount="2272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I come from an Engineering background and I have a strong interest in science. It has always struck me as odd how so much of cycling is so very subjective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, though this is by no means the only thing, the best method of lubricating a chain. Now I appreciate that there is a difference between conditions that it has to operate in but from an engineering viewpoint there will be an optimum type of lubricant and methodology for applying it. Yet most of the advice you can read about it is laced with conjecture and opinion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire industry appears to be built on arguments that should be resolved with simple repeatable testing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this type of research simply not exist? or do we just enjoy arguing too much! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edited to respond / clarify&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a species we have now sent a number of spacecraft out to the edge of the solar system. One of breakthroughs of New Horizon was getting it to leave earth orbit so quickly. I imagine the number of variables that were contemplated, researched and tested where considerably more complex than the handful that we can consider for a cycle chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concept of testing isn't to account for every variable, it is to account for individual variables so eventually they can be merged together to get a complete understanding of the underlying system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So imagine for a minute a box containing a cassette that can provide some constant friction. Then a powered front ring that turns at x rpm. Every y amount of time the gears are automatically changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point you can measure how much the chain is stretching, and whatever other criteria you're interested in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could run the same test with different lubricants and get an idea of what lubricant changes which result. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have that data, you could have a mechanism that drops / throws / shoots z grams of dust / dirty / water / banana at the chain and run the test again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of a few chains you're going to be able to categorically say that for riding in mud, a is almost certainly better, for riding in high temperature, b is better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It slightly staggers me that we can look at a photograph taken from billions of miles away and say that this is too complicated to figure out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further edited&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that somebody has already come up with that scenario, A guy named Jason Smith at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.friction-facts.com/&quot;&gt;Friction Facts&lt;/a&gt; spent $50k building a test lab to test chains. Velo Magazine had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lillylube.com/uploads/Link_to_Velo_Article.pdf&quot;&gt;report&lt;/a&gt; done on assorted lubes which articulates my point that facts are much better than anecdote. That gives a report that anyone can read and make an informed choice about what would best suit their situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point in asking this question is that it surprises me that such data isn't used more in conversations about technology and that there isn't more high quality quantitative data about this thing that costs us so much bloody money!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19723" LastEditorUserId="19723" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T01:33:36.153" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T02:21:17.187" Title="Why are so many technical aspects of cycling so subjective?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-07-17T18:11:11.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31975" CreationDate="2015-07-16T14:24:15.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of the research would be hard to do if not useless. For one thing, most bicycles just don't get used all that often -- plenty of people I know will likely never wear down any of the original parts on a bicycle even if they neglect the maintenance. Moreover, even among regular cyclists, we don't have enough people who would care about such a thing. So we don't have that many samples in the real world. We also have a huge amount of variation in parts and even more, a huge variation in riding conditions. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; by Sheldon Brown on chains for example (particularly the first paragraph). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you wanted to see how long a tire lasts, most of the time its not that the tire wears out but you cut the tire due to debris. It also depends a lot on braking style (fixie riders who skid can burn through tires &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; quickly, for example) and other things so just running the tire on a machine wouldn't really be a good representation of how long a tire lasts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes have a similar thing -- if you ride in the wet vs dry (and type of wet vs type of dry), you'll get vastly different results. Same things for chains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, cyclists have a wide range of what they deem acceptable. For example, some people will replace their chain when it hits 1% stretch according to manufacturer X's rules, while others will wait till it slips. Theres a wide variation in parts (esp. since you get the hot new thing every year with different rules) so building up averages over time is hard too (and boring for people to cover in press). See for example Heltonbiker's answer in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9122/how-to-tell-when-to-replace-cassette&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your &quot;optimal&quot; scenario, you have to define what optimality is with respect to (i.e. the cost function) -- waxing a chain vs dripping some oil vs doing nothing can have vastly different costs making the optimal one different for everybody since everyone can have a different cost function. With different cost functions you'll get vastly different results. This is true in engineering as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T14:31:18.167" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31978" CreationDate="2015-07-16T14:37:15.700" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purchased my first &quot;decent&quot; bike, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.motobecane.com/400_700ht/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Motobecane 700HT&quot;&gt;Motobecane 700HT&lt;/a&gt; about 5-6 years ago as a 'gateway drug' of sorts for myself to get into XC biking. Ended up using it for commuting for a few years as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time have upgraded both front and rear discs with Avid BB7 (160/180mm) and tried to keep everything clean and well serviced. Frame got beat up a bit commuting (locking to outside bike racks) but just cosmetic. Bike still runs pretty well, shifts great - front gears can be a little slow but that might just be typical Deore derailleur (I have XT in the back and still run like new). Front fork (Dart 2) lockout is broken and I think the rebound is starting to get sluggish. I've replaced several other minor components over time as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have on hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A brand new Rockshox Reba RL 120mm &lt;strong&gt;TAPERED&lt;/strong&gt; 15mm Maxle lite (steer tube has been cut down just a little bit, should still be plenty long, but affects resale)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A brand new Mavic Crossride Disc wheelset (15/12mm through axle)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are of course, utterly useless to me right now. I actually did try to mount the Reba fork to my bike using a specially designed &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.canecreek.com/p/40-ec44-40-bottom-assembly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;headset from Cane Creek&lt;/a&gt; and while the fork &quot;fits&quot;, it just barely rubs on the inside of my headtube. No dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So my question&lt;/strong&gt;: Would I be better off liquidating everything I currently own and purchasing a new bike, or would it be a reasonable endeavor to port my current parts to a new frame (waiting for a good deal online)? I am not sure how 'compatible' my entire parts list are for modern frames and considering age whether I would be better off starting from scratch. For consideration, I am confident in my ability to swap components over myself, so I won't be having to tack on cost of LBS to do it for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a local that is selling &lt;a href=&quot;http://dartmoor-bikes.com/hardware/frames/primal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dartmoor Primal&lt;/a&gt; frames sub $200, which sounds like it might be a winner for me - being 650b or 26er compatible I like the idea of upgrading to 27.5 wheels as a down the road upgrade. I expect to have to purchase some new minor components to handle this swap - probably new bottom bracket (? I am fairly unfamiliar to the different specs on BBs) and seatpost - not sure if frame comes with headset but I'll assume I'll need a tapered headset as well as all new cable. Is this reasoning sound? Or are there likely more parts that will need to be changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20489" LastEditorUserId="20489" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T16:12:42.573" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T16:17:33.927" Title="Have some new parts on hand but need new frame - frame swap reasonable? or sell and purchase new bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31977" CreationDate="2015-07-16T15:43:23.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it depends…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you be happier cleaning a bunch of stuff out and getting a shiny new bike that reflects all you've learned? One that will &quot;just work,&quot; or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be a fun project to build up a bike from scratch? Would it feel good to know that you'd &quot;built it yourself?&quot; Do you have the time for the project? Is it ok with you to get stuck and make some mistakes – probably &quot;wasting&quot; some time and/or money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to build, there are likely to be some unexpected &quot;gotchas&quot; along the way. So it is worth doing some reading and searching to see if others have run into similar problems. Sheldon Brown has a good piece on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/upgrade.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Upgrading Older Road Bicycles&lt;/a&gt; that may help you start thinking about the possible problems. Overtime the morass of bicycle standards has sorted itself out (a bit) so some of the problems that he mentions may not be issues. If you're looking at a frame you may find that the builder/seller publishes the key specs so that you can buy the correct parts. The specs will help you identify where the problems may lie. Some of the ones that come immediately to mind are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frame size and stem type, this decides if you can use your existing stem and the length of the stem you'll need.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rear dropout spacing. This will decide how easy it is to use your old wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Seat tube diameter (affects seatpost size and the front derailer clamp size).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brake type and reach (distance from the mounting bolt to the rims, this is mostly an issue for caliper brakes).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tire clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bottom bracket. It used to be that frame builders were tending towards 68 mm wide bottom brackets with British threads, but now there is a whole new generation of bottom bracket designs, so you may find that you'll either need to pick a frame to match your old one, or get a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to lean towards the build side, but that's partly because I can't afford the bike I really want…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T16:17:33.927" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T16:17:33.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31980" CreationDate="2015-07-16T16:10:23.443" Score="1" ViewCount="888" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrecked my current wheel set in a crash and am considering purchasing a set of Campy Hyperons from a friend. AFAIK the wheels are stock and haven't been tweaked in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if I can use my current SRAM PG 1071 cassette with these wheels or if I'll need to also buy a new cassette to play nice with the Campy hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20491" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T16:24:55.097" Title="SRAM Cassette on Campy Wheels" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31979" CreationDate="2015-07-16T16:24:55.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campagnolo wheels are available with both Shimano/SRAM and Campagnolo cassette compatible freewheel bodies. Ask which cassette your friend has and if they have Campagnolo, you can get the correct freehub body as a spare part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRAM/Shimano and Campagnolo cassettes have slightly different cog spacing. You can mix them, but the derailleur adjustment will be slightly off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T16:24:55.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31975" CreationDate="2015-07-16T16:26:38.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the other problem with trying to both do the research, and then present it, is that there are so many ways to define the &quot;problem&quot; and so many valid criteria for evaluating &quot;best&quot; or &quot;optimal.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use your chain example, and just off the top of my head, are we talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Maximizing the life of the chain, or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Minimizing the time spent maintaining the chain, or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Improving shifting, or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the chain clean (so that I can ride it work in my white pants…).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure the list could go on and I was intentionally avoiding issues of different conditions. Plus, I'd bet that there is an element of loving the debate as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T16:26:38.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31983" CreationDate="2015-07-16T16:53:09.610" Score="6" ViewCount="18952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this kind of question has been asked several times here (I've read those already), but I'm still uncertain and I have a few other questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hardly ride bicycles. I've gone night cycling for 5+ hours before (not sure what distance that translates to) and I don't remember it being especially difficult except that it was pretty uncomfortable for my butt, and I've read that people actually do travel 20km to work daily, so distance itself shouldn't be a problem right? And feasibly how long would it take to bike that distance for the commuter-level people?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I live in Singapore, so it's extremely hot and humid. I'm not sure if this is pertinent at all but I'm wondering if it makes cycling long distances unbearable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although we have bicycle roads scattered around the country, it isn't a cyclist-friendly place. I'm aware drivers here detest it when cyclists cycle on the road, and to add to that I'm not confident about cycling on the road either. I'd much rather cycle on the pedestrian path but I heard it's rude to, or is it okay as long as you maintain a respectful speed and not get in the way of pedestrians?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since each commute is around 20km, if I'm not wrong a road bike would be better, but I'm more inclined towards city/cruiser bikes because of their appearance. This may seem like a bad reason but if it's only going to be a bit more uncomfortable then I'm willing to suffer that. Will Creme or Linus bicycles suffice? Like Creme's Molly series. If they're not good enough, are there any decent road bikes that look like that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike theft here is common enough for it to be a concern for me. Since I'm probably going to be leaving my bike unattended for several hours (may be up to half a day), if I use hardened steel bike locks and U-locks will my bike be safe? I'll be parking it in my university but I'm not sure if that is going to deter bike thieves at all. From what I've read online bicycles are stolen so much it almost sounds inevitable, and I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; don't want to experience that. Also, handcuffs are illegal in my country so the Master Lock street cuffs probably are too- are there single cuffs for the bike wheels and are they reliable? They seem pretty sturdy to me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case anyone wants to know, I'm considering a bike because travelling the same 20km by public transport takes 1.5h and requires me changing buses/trains several times, which is too much hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20493" LastActivityDate="2017-03-21T05:31:46.917" Title="Can a beginner cyclist commute ~40km (round trip) to school/work by bike?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31982" CreationDate="2015-07-16T17:42:53.973" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding to work for about 20 years now and my round trip distances have ranged from 35-75 km (50 km currently). It will be difficult to jump into riding 40 km every day, 5 days a week if you have little riding experience.  Fatigue can quickly accumulate depending on how hard you ride each day.  Instead, I would suggest starting with just a few days a week and work you way up.  You will also need to plan for recovery weeks in order to keep feeling your best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of your specific questions, here is my take&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;I live in Singapore, so it's extremely hot and humid. I'm not sure if&#xA;  this is pertinent at all but I'm wondering if it makes cycling long&#xA;  distances unbearable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on a number of factors such as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The time(s) you are commuting to work;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How well you stay hydrated during riding;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your tolerance for humidity and heat (which in turn is affected by a large number factors such as your fitness, hydration, sleep, genetics, clothing...);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How fast you ride / and how often you take breaks; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The difficultly of the route you ride (e.g., flat vs. hilly).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;I'd much rather cycle on the pedestrian path but I heard it's rude to, or is it okay as long as you maintain a respectful speed and not&#xA;  get in the way of pedestrians?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really specific to the region you live in.  By-laws may exist that either allow or prevent this, as well as social convention may or may not allow this. The specific &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ntu.edu.sg/ohs/safetyforeveryone/Documents/Singapore%20Laws%20on%20Cycling.pdf&quot;&gt;laws governing cycling in Singapore&lt;/a&gt; didn't make explicit mention, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://johnhamilton7.wordpress.com/2010/08/28/5-rules-for-cycling-in-singapore/&quot;&gt;this blog post&lt;/a&gt; seems to suggest that it is actually &lt;strong&gt;encouraged&lt;/strong&gt;.  That said, a comment within that article suggested otherwise.  Perhaps it would be worth asking this as a single question on stack exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other interesting tidbits from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ntu.edu.sg/ohs/safetyforeveryone/Documents/Singapore%20Laws%20on%20Cycling.pdf&quot;&gt;laws governing cycling in Singapore&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your load cannot exceed 18 kg.  &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Good thing most textbooks are digital now, I would have been in trouble during my undergrad.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must use a bike path if one exists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Since each commute is around 20km, if I'm not wrong a road bike would be better, but I'm more inclined towards city/cruiser bikes&#xA;  because of their appearance. This may seem like a bad reason but if&#xA;  it's only going to be a bit more uncomfortable then I'm willing to&#xA;  suffer that. Will Creme or Linus bicycles suffice? Like Creme's Molly&#xA;  series. If they're not good enough, are there any decent road bikes&#xA;  that look like that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you will be spending a lot of time riding, getting a comfortable fit should be your top priority.  Fit is also a very difficult subject in cycling as there is no such thing as the perfect fit, only a balance of compromises. I personally find being too upright uncomfortable (it places all your load on your sit bones), but also feel that many road bikes are too low.  20 years in I am still working to improve my fit.  Before you write off all road bikes, look at the &quot;endurance&quot; type road/touring bikes.  These will have a taller frame stack (vertical distance from the bottom bracket to the top of the head tube) than the &quot;race&quot; road bikes and will be much more comfortable for most rides while still rolling efficiently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Bike theft here is common enough for it to be a concern for me. Since I'm probably going to be leaving my bike unattended for several&#xA;  hours (may be up to half a day), if I use hardened steel bike locks&#xA;  and U-locks will my bike be safe? I'll be parking it in my university&#xA;  but I'm not sure if that is going to deter bike thieves at all. From&#xA;  what I've read online bicycles are stolen so much it almost sounds&#xA;  inevitable, and I really don't want to experience that. Also,&#xA;  handcuffs are illegal in my country so the Master Lock street cuffs&#xA;  probably are too- are there single cuffs for the bike wheels and are&#xA;  they reliable? They seem pretty sturdy to me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No lock is theft proof. With the right tools any lock can be defeated. That said, some locks are a much better deterrent than others, plus you can mitigate your risk by carefully selecting &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; you lock your bike, as well as the general appearance of your bike (less flashy, means less of a target).  I remember people at university spray painting their bikes all sorts of horrible colours to deter theft.  I personally just found some places that had high visibility with lots of people. Of course, like any advice your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T17:50:00.097" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T17:50:00.097" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31989" CreationDate="2015-07-16T18:45:21.880" Score="14" ViewCount="62936" Body="&lt;p&gt;This year in my area, I've seen a lot of people using fat tires on paved bike paths and roads, when there was no fat bikes before. I also see a lot of these bikes in grocery stores. It is summer, so there is no snow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious of the benefits of a fat tire beyond the obvious off-roading capabilities. Is it just a weird fad or is there some benefit of a fat tire vs a hybrid or a road bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20286" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T19:35:58.110" Title="What is the benefit of fat tires on pavement?" Tags="&lt;fatbike&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31975" CreationDate="2015-07-16T18:51:59.780" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a completely different answer, I am sure a lot of these type of tests are done by manufacturers.  The information likely remains proprietary and never sees the light of day.  The job of marketing is not to disseminate scientific facts, but to convince the public to purchase item X.  The business model of cycling publications is to entertain, not run scientific journals.  In the end a few dedicated souls try to do their own experiments, but this information is never largely disseminated. In the end the consumers never know the real truths, and relies largely on anecdotal evidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T18:51:59.780" CommentCount="20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31975" CreationDate="2015-07-16T19:08:49.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all comes down to tolerances and cost/benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a highly engineered vehicle or machine, parts are subjected to tremendous forces, very near to the maximum point of resistance a piece can withstand. Tolerances are very tight in many aspects. Forces, temperatures, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those machines, cost of replacement of parts, or repair due to damage from neglected maintenance (or catastrophic failure, for that matters) is high enough to justify the needed research to determine optimum procedures and supplies (lubricants, cleaners, catalysts, specific tools).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in bicycles, which are a fairly simple mechanism, many of the components are far from material and design limits, specially for non competitive riders, there are very loose tolerances. So, the whole industry doesn't need to be that specific about procedures, the cost/benefit relationship simply does not justify the research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the simplicity of the bicycle, and its ubiquitous-ness makes it both possible and necessary that there are so many alternatives for maintenance. I mean, there is the top competitive rider in a fully sponsored team, and the humble commuter who lives in a sub-developed region, far away from any bike shop or even a hardware store or gas station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that follows that there exist the specific, &quot;optimum&quot; lubricant for an 4 hour race stage, but there is also a rider who has been lubricating the same chain with, grease from some animal for ten years (Exaggerating just for the sake of the argument). And they both have used the best that they could and they both may swear that it works. From that point on, all &quot;objectivity&quot; decays, because you'll find riders all over a spectrum not even limited by this two examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is not a phenomenon exclusive to cycling. Consider for example how many debates exist in automotive industry. Compare how tight standards are in motoring respect to cycling (in general). Now compare aviation to motoring. Space transport to aviation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T19:08:49.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31987" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-16T19:15:57.730" Score="2" ViewCount="3331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older mountain bike.  I need to change the rear skewer so I can use an indoor trainer, but I don't think there is one.  What do I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a CycleOps Mag trainer and they included a skewer to replace the one that is supposed to be on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20496" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-11-29T22:51:46.200" LastActivityDate="2019-01-27T03:27:10.493" Title="Using older mountain bike in a Trainer" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;trainer&gt;&lt;skewer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31975" CreationDate="2015-07-16T19:24:12.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A bicycle without a rider is not a machine&lt;/strong&gt;, it is just a large paperweight or a piece of artwork. There are very few technical aspects that can be &quot;objective&quot; when the very machine itself has a greatly varying and subjective element inherent to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the other answers have touched on this issue, and that's that &lt;strong&gt;all bikes are not used exactly the same way.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one of the OP's comments, is written &quot;If you want variable loads, then create a mechanism on the drive / cassette to create that in a repeatable way.&quot;. Well, that's not so simple, because not all bikes see the same loads. A bike ridden by a professional rider is going to see different wear than a bike ridden by a &lt;a href=&quot;http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_wb8bAl1P-N0/SXC4yEpe9rI/AAAAAAAAFqo/M8URc7cTpSY/s1600-h/minnesota.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;nonplussed minnesota commuter&quot;&gt;guy in a minnesota winter commuting to work&lt;/a&gt;. The moment you build a machine to test your cassetes, you've already decided what &quot;optimum&quot; means, and that won't cover everyone. Trying to test every method with every substance with every riding condition with every maintenance schedule to figure out what's best in all circumstances is completely impractical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jahaziel gave the example of someone lubing his chain with animal fat. That very well could truly be optimal for that person's situation. How can optimal involve something that is unavailable or too expensive, for anyone, for anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The New Horizons probe was designed to perform a &lt;em&gt;very specific&lt;/em&gt; function under &lt;em&gt;very specific&lt;/em&gt; conditions in a &lt;em&gt;very specific&lt;/em&gt; timeframe. In contrast, part of the beauty of the bicycle, is that it can be used for so many different purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T19:24:12.267" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31984" CreationDate="2015-07-16T19:48:25.910" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're witnessing is probably a mixture of convenience and all-around-increased popularity of fat bikes, rather than actual 'benefits'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people don't have the luxury of owning multiple bikes: one for the road, one for grocery trips, one for cross country, etc. If someone only has the resources for one bike, and they chose a fat bike because they like the versatility, you can understand why they would take that bike to the store. It's easy to argue that a fat-bike can go off-road, on the snow and sand, and of course to the store. A road bike cannot do all of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, wide tires are generally more comfortable. I could shed some weight and increase my speed a little by running ~30mm tires, but I choose to run 40mm tires most weeks because they handle bumpy roads and gravel with comfort and ease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T20:43:18.443" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T20:43:18.443" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31975" CreationDate="2015-07-16T20:15:49.703" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as outside testing goes, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.friction-facts.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Friction Facts&lt;/a&gt; is an independent company that does exactly what you ask for, testing components against each other to find out what is best, including chains in a variety of conditions (new, re-lubed, wet, dirty, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top manufacturers presumably have unpublished data, considering that bikes continue to get faster and lighter. This research probably does contain blind spots, and I haven't seen a lot of manufacturer's recommendations about detailed advice on how to maintain a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to this, a quick google search for &quot;research bicycle efficiency&quot; turned up a significant amount of published research about cyclists, but not about bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the reason there are so many arguments on the web about the best way to do anything is that people just like arguing, although you could certainly argue otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20192" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T02:21:17.187" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T02:21:17.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31975" CreationDate="2015-07-16T21:34:25.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's exactly the same thing in the automotive world. There are all kinds of studies showing you should do this and you should do that, but the vast majority of people just don't care. For example, I have no idea what kind of oil is in my car. It could be 10w30, it could be 10w40. It could be real or it could be synthetic. All I know is that there is oil in there. I trust that the guy doing my oil changes knows what he's doing, and as far as I can tell, he's been right so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a lot, and on all my bikes, I've used all kinds of lubricants. What I've discovered in the last 20 years is that I can't tell any difference. Those times when I've pulled off a 5-hour century, it wasn't because I had the right oil on my chain. When I set a new PR up my local trail, it is not likely due to switching from dry lube to wet lube. If there really was one lube that was significantly better than the others, then I'm sure we would all know about it. The fact that every manufacturer seems to make that same claim is a good hint that it probably isn't true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I'm representative of most people who not only don't care too much about these things, but also are certain that they don't matter. The truth is, I don't lube my bikes enough, so any lube on the chain is going to be better than no lube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20494" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T21:34:25.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8548" CreationDate="2015-07-16T21:41:50.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically this is simple. &#xA;Firstly make sure you control your speed from the first inch going downhill. The only way to do that effectively is by pressing back on the upward stroke. If you start early enough this will not cost too much effort and it is effective. Best remove any brake you have as this is ineffective and dangerous.&#xA;Also try mounting your saddle further back on the bike. This will give you better control in any circumstance. &#xA;And look ahead, more so than you are used to on your regular bicycle (this goes on the flats as well).&#xA;...and most of all have fun riding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20497" LastEditorUserId="20497" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T21:47:08.207" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T21:47:08.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31975" CreationDate="2015-07-16T21:47:11.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The big thing is : you have a very subjective human riding the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if a study shows that for X leg length you need Y crank length, if the person riding the bike think that Z cranks &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; better or &lt;em&gt;feel&lt;/em&gt; faster, what can you do? That is mostly why there is so much debate, because everybody is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also people want different things from their bike, some want minimum maintenance, while other want minimum friction. Some people want light wheels, other want stiffer wheels. Some people don't mind lubing the chain after each ride, while other will do it one a season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T21:47:11.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31971" CreationDate="2015-07-16T22:59:22.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only Fort frames I've seen have been their cyclocross bikes and all of those were aluminum. Assuming we're talking about the same Czech made Fort frames then your only option is a new frame. Aluminum is effectively not repairable the way titanium, steel or carbon are. Depending on the age of the frame you might be able to get it replaced by the importer under warranty assuming you're the original owner. Then again, an alloy frame designed for racing (and especially cyclocross racing) isn't expected to last forever. Head tubes do take a major beating, especially in cross. Between the bumps and braking forces it's not exactly uncommon to see cracked head tubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T22:59:22.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9481" CreationDate="2015-07-16T23:17:02.630" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;North Shore Racks makes a six-bike rack:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.northshoreracks.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.northshoreracks.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20500" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T23:17:02.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32000" CreationDate="2015-07-17T06:42:21.687" Score="2" ViewCount="627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a 2015 Specialized AWOL Elite and love it except when I am fully loaded and lumbering up a pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to get more range without completely replacing my drivetrain. This Adventure Cycling article perfectly describes my situation: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/default/assets/resources/20150401_DrivetrainDilemma_DAmbrosio.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;THE DRIVETRAIN DILEMMA&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I have &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the stock FSA Omega 30/39/50 MegaExo crankset paired with &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;9-speed triple Sora 11-32 front/rear derailleurs and shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confused about STI vs MTB indexing on Shimano 9 and 10 speed shifters. I am considering swapping out the crankset and rear derailleur with a&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FSA Afterburner 26/36/48 crankset and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9-speed Deore rear derailleur with an 11-36 cassette&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is will these new components work with the original Sora front derailleur and shifters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20505" LastEditorUserId="20505" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T17:24:08.097" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T17:24:08.097" Title="Touring Drivetrain Dilemna" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31984" CreationDate="2015-07-17T06:55:14.443" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most of the people who I've seen ride them it's because they're harder to push. The 4&quot; fat tyres also have thicker walls, so flexing them takes more effort, on top of the greatly increased angular momentum. That means that commuting to work takes more effort. If you're trying to get fit, that's what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that many of these people also ride their fat bikes off road, sometimes quite ridiculously so. Australia is well supplied with &quot;ridiculously off road&quot; and a lot of that can't be ridden with skinny little 2&quot; tyres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IME the comfort of 4&quot; tyres is not much greater than 2&quot; tyres, but the 4&quot; ones are much harder to push. 4&quot; also lose traction more easily on hard surfaces because of their (generally) harder compound and lower ground pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10584" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T06:55:14.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31975" CreationDate="2015-07-17T12:08:26.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question of why there are so many subjective discussions which are not backed by numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Because there is no accepted standard&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am specifically not saying that there could not be such a standard (of course there could be), or how relevant it is, I am just mentioning that there is none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the situation can easily be compared to car efficiency discussions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are a lot of different circumstances&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It depends on the user and usage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are many different objectives&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what happened in the car industry (at least in some countries) is that manufacturers are forced to report their theoretical mileage in a standard way (A certain test track is used, simulating several conditions with reliable drivers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This greatly reduced the amount of discussion for the particular topic, but of course it is a lot of work and it only solves the issue for one, or a few topics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would of course be possible to also set such a standard for each individual aspect of bikes, but there is simply insufficiant incentive to warrant the cost and effort. So, unless there are big changes (bikes become tax deductible if they are expected to last more than 5 years), we will probably not see much development in this area any time soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20506" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T12:08:26.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31997" CreationDate="2015-07-17T13:30:02.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The replacement of the 9 speed Shimano road RD with a 9 speed Shimano mountain RD is fine -- the cable pulls are the same. You'll need to re-size (i.e. put on a longer) chain for the bigger cassette though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the crankset swap, I think with the new cassette it isn't going to be necessary. In any case, the Sora FD-3403 (which is what you likely have) has a maximum front chainring difference of 20 teeth whereas you're asking for a difference of 22 teeth, so you're technically out of spec. Since its 2 teeth, you might be able to get by, but you'd have to try it and tune it to see if it works. You do need a Shimano road FD to work with the Sora shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T13:30:02.403" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-17T14:35:32.897" Score="0" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &quot;Old Fashioned&quot; Looking new bike, a cruiser with a single gear.  It pedals very smooth, but when I stop pedaling, I hear what can best be described as a grinding sound.  When I pedal again, it stops.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20508" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T14:35:32.897" Title="Grinding on a new &quot;Old Fashoined&quot; bike" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-17T19:29:53.843" Score="1" ViewCount="2549" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so I've been reading about gear ratios and what not all morning and I can't make any sense of it. Some of it is registering but it's still kind of over my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm ordering a Tiagra group set for my commuter bike.  It will be around 10-15 miles a day (5 days a week) carrying approximately 35 pounds on panniers.  The commute will be mostly flat, couple small hills and some easy elevation increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to cycle quite a lot (200 mi/wk) but haven't ridden in a year due to time constraints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my options for the cassette are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11-25&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12-28&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12-30&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my understanding I would want to go with either an 11-25 or 12-28.  The 11-25 would be more for speed/power and 12-28 would offer a wider range of gears (i.e. lower gears for climbing hills)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crankset options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;39/52&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;34/50 (Compact)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crankset I have no idea about, this is where I keep getting lost with everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice or recommendations would be very much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20511" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2019-02-22T16:06:46.653" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T16:06:46.653" Title="Cassette &amp; crank combo for commuting" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;compact-crankset&gt;&lt;groupsets&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32006" CreationDate="2015-07-17T20:08:52.703" Score="7" ViewCount="29908" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to ask &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1452/building-from-scratch-vs-buying-new&quot;&gt;about the pros and cons of building one's bike from scratch&lt;/a&gt;, but I came to the conclusion that I'm not going to do it (asking and building).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is: why is it (usually, if we leave the silly high-end prices alone) more expensive to build a bike from scratch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20196" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T18:24:13.597" Title="Building bike from scratch: why more expensive than pre-built?" Tags="&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32003" CreationDate="2015-07-17T20:14:50.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't get bulk buying discounts for each part. You have to get retail packaging instead of bulk packaging. Certain parts are only made for OEM bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to put it together (and possibly get the frame prepped at the bike shop), which can add labor costs (since the work is not done in say, Taiwan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T20:14:50.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32003" CreationDate="2015-07-17T21:23:06.787" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sale price falls between what the customer is prepared to pay and cost plus. &#xA;(If the cost plus is more than what the customer will accept, it's not worth doing business). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complete bikes are a highly competitive market, and this drives the price down to very close to cost plus pricing. It's the high volume, low profit part of the business. The accessories and parts are the high profit part that keeps them going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike parts are not competitive. Most bikes sold never get to see a new part except accident damage, and individual parts are relatively cheap, so the consumer cannot save that much by shopping around.  Most parts are sold and installed at shops and the labor cost will not change shopping around. Most consumers do not have the skills or desire to install parts themselves, let alone diagnose a fault. Even for the small percentage that replace worn out parts, shopping around is hardly worth the savings (unless you go online and buy on the world-scale market). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a world scale, the likes of &lt;em&gt;wiggle&lt;/em&gt; show just how much profit is in parts, yet they represent a very small percentage of bike parts sold. Most parts are sold and installed at shops. As such, they have little volume buying power and probably pay more for parts than the manufacturers, or pick up the end-of-life parts the manufacturers no longer make and stock. Have a look at wiggle stock - you will not often get exactly what you want - you will get usually something very close -  unless your bike is a year old - because they are an 'end of run' outlet shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comparing to computers is not correct. If you look at what's happened, laptops and all-in-ones are a lot cheaper than boxes and the modern PC equivalent of the pre-assembled bike. Try building a laptop or all-in-one from parts and see what it costs. Your &quot;custom built PC&quot; is now the equivalent to that &quot;silly high-end&quot;  bike.  Years ago, the market for parts for a PC was a very competitive one with many manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-19T01:12:30.480" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T01:12:30.480" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32002" CreationDate="2015-07-17T22:03:24.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some math: the bold numbers are turns of the rear wheel per turn of the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;39/52 crankset:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with 11-25 cassette: from 39/25 = &lt;strong&gt;1.56&lt;/strong&gt; to  2/11 = &lt;strong&gt;4.73&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with 12-28 cassette: from 39/28 = &lt;strong&gt;1.39&lt;/strong&gt; to 52/12 = &lt;strong&gt;4.33&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with 12-30 cassette: from 39/30 = &lt;strong&gt;1.3&lt;/strong&gt; to 52/12 = &lt;strong&gt;4.33&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;34/50 crankset:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with 11-25 cassette: from 34/25 = &lt;strong&gt;1.36&lt;/strong&gt; to 50/11 = &lt;strong&gt;4.55&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with 12-28 cassette:from 34/28 = &lt;strong&gt;1.21&lt;/strong&gt; to 50/12 = &lt;strong&gt;4.17&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with 12-30 cassette: from 34/30 = &lt;strong&gt;1.13&lt;/strong&gt; to 50/12 = &lt;strong&gt;4.17&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the 34/50 crankset will give you a wider range, because 50/34 = 1.47 &gt; 1.33 = 52/39, i.e. with the 34/50 crankset, the larger chain ring has 1.47 times more teeth than the small one vs. 1.33 times more teeth with the 52/39 crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @Batman states, you'll probably not be using the smallest cog (11t) that much, so we're left with 12-28 or 12-30, and I don't think that there's much of a difference between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20196" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T22:03:24.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32003" CreationDate="2015-07-17T22:50:54.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have built a few bikes for less than already built cost. It takes a lot of time and research to do it. If you add the cost of the personal time, it has to be more a labor of love than a financial gain. It took over a year and hours of looking on line, E Bay, Craigs List and retailers for the best deals on individual components and buying only when I thought the price was the best I could get. What I finished with was about half the cost of the bike assembled. I also gained the skills needed to repair almost anything on the bike and an understanding of how everything works. The reason for the up charges on components are as stated by others, volume pricing and the five or six hands that touch the part before it makes it to the bike shop. Every layer of  the supply chain makes a profit and the price goes up per unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T22:56:36.790" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T22:56:36.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32003" CreationDate="2015-07-18T00:06:13.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Economy of scale, bulk discounts, underpaid Chinese laborers. One of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RE: building your own PC. Yes you can sometimes save money doing that too (on higher end rigs) but if you just want 'a cheap PC' it would be almost impossible to top a pre-built Acer or Dell...and literally impossible if you factor in things like Windows licenses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20514" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T00:06:13.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T00:22:24.717" Score="0" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was installing new brakes and I pulled too hard on the lever and the cable end disconnected from the brake lever. I'm having trouble reattaching it because it can only be pulled out so far due to the cable housing and it's such a small space. Is there a specific tool i need to use because this happened to me once before and the guy at the bike shop fixed it without removing the housing. I don't want to keep going back to a bike shop every time this happens so I need to know how to do it on my own if I am out on a ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20515" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T06:20:04.710" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T04:14:06.950" Title="How to Reattach Cable End for Road Drop Bar Brake Lever" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-09-13T02:33:48.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32013" CreationDate="2015-07-18T00:27:45.457" Score="0" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi a few years ago I acquired this bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yl0JI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Apollo XC26&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a pretty crappy bike, it's cheap, poor quality parts and not really a mountain bike... but that is why i love it. It means i have to pay extra attention when taking fast sections of downhill, land properly when doing jumps and if anything brakes it doesn't really matter as the bike was cheap. I buy more cheap parts and get to learn how to build and repair a bike as i go, this bike is a learning experiment for me, as I do not want to spend £1000s on a good downhill bike i bought this second hand for £20 and rag it and then replenish the parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However i want to make some modifications; i would like it to be like an old school BMX:&#xA; - Fixie&#xA; - Coaster brake&#xA;Reason for this is the cables get in the way, the gear system is that inneffective twist shift, they don't work properly and it is just another cheap component that will break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know i can change this into a fixie, but can i also give it coaster brakes?&#xA;If i do will i still be able to somewhat downhill and jumps?&#xA;Thanks&#xA;Dan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hrCTI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Frame&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it is horizontal drop outs so i think it should be possible, but i have not had much experience&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20516" LastEditorUserId="20516" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T00:33:28.320" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T01:49:36.053" Title="Apollo XC26 mountain bike, convert it to a coaster brake fixie?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2015-07-18T00:42:01.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.twowheelgear.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Two Wheel Gear&lt;/a&gt; pannier type bag for over 2.5 years now and would be lost without it. I can bring everything I need to the office - suits, shoes, and even lunch. This one bag does it all. Highly recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20517" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T06:20:11.513" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T06:20:11.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32011" CreationDate="2015-07-18T01:14:44.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can give it coaster brakes (but note that it won't be a fixie; it will be a single speed which can coast without peddling  with coaster brakes). Just buy or build a wheel with a coaster brake in it (you will need a coaster brake hub of the appropriate width) of the appropriate wheel size, put it in the dropout appropriately and then make sure to clamp on the reaction arm to the chainstay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, coaster brakes for mountain biking are generally not a good idea. They don't dissipate heat very well, and you have less freedom to position your pedals. On top of that, coaster brakes often lock up which isn't great. On top of that, removing a coaster brake wheel is more work than just a quick release (for flats, for example). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T01:14:44.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32002" CreationDate="2015-07-18T03:11:44.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a bike you can ride now, I'd suggest putting its gear configuration into an online gear calculator (I'm kind of fond of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gear-calculator.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;) so that you can see the ratios and spacings of a bike you've ridden and compare them with the options you're considering for your new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, I'm most interested in a gear that feels good for cruising on the flat and a good hill climbing gear (for me this means one where I can spin pretty close to my &quot;normal&quot; cadence). From the bike that you know, think about what you'd like to improve – say a higher climbing gear, or maybe a couple of options for a cruising gear (especially if it is windy where you are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also really like Jasper's analysis of the step between the chain rings, that seems like a helpful way to think about cranksets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T03:11:44.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32003" CreationDate="2015-07-18T07:12:29.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because you are only buying 1 of each component. A bicycle manufacture buys thousands of the same component and thus gets huge discounts. Sometimes, some components on a bicycle are the bicycle manufacture's own product, such as hubs, bars, etc. These are not for sale to you. However, building your own bike allows you to select exactly the components you want. &#xA;As for PCs, once it was possible to build for less than a complete PC, but now the price of PCs is so low, that's not really possible anymore. The exception would be a high level gaming PC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T07:12:29.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19044" CreationDate="2015-07-18T13:02:21.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The handlebars on the Masi Uno look like track-style handlebars, which were designed for the aerodynamic needs of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Track_cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;track racing&lt;/a&gt; (in a closed, running-track-like loop in a velodrome) over the practical needs of a road bike. The important thing to note is that track bikes usually don't have brakes (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.co.uk/news/archive/2012-08/03/olympic-track-cycles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; for why, with a fun sneak peek of &quot;It's the Olympics; if the riders wanted to slow down, they wouldn't be there.&quot;), and their handlebar design reflects that. As Rider_X said, you could certainly put them on, but they might be uncomfortable depending on the size of your hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest adding interrupter levers for safety, and then potentially adding cross levers/mountain bike style levers on the very ends of the handlebars, where it's most flat. Here are some pictures illustrating the concept done on mustache handlebars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gGKon.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;High Res Handlebar Photo. Source: rustybikebell.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/img_1443.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bope5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;More of a home-brew job where the brakes were clearly added after-market. Source: brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/independent-fabrication-club-2-racer.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your goal was to be able to add brifters (integrated brake levers/shift levers), my suggested configuration might get awkward to use and you'd be better off just attaching them as you would on a road drop bar, and hope that the reach isn't too far. If you have large hands, this shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20452" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T13:02:21.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T16:14:20.350" Score="1" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given an old 2006 Trek 1000 and I've been working on replacing everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just ordered a new Shimano Tiagra 4600 groupset last night and now I need to get wheels and tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike currently has 700x25c wheels on it, with a 23mm tire in the front and 25mm tire in the back.  Both are completely flat and I haven't even ridden on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's pictures of the brake/frame clearance with all of the old components on.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/lRQgI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/lRQgI&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be commuting with around 25-30 pounds every day, ~70 mi/week on mostly flat terrain.  I'm 5'9&quot; and 150 lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My priorities are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reliability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick repair time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comfort&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that being said, what size tires should I put on new 700x25c wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20511" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T17:19:16.700" Title="Max sizing for wheels and tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;cargo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32219" CreationDate="2015-07-18T16:16:40.883" Score="5" ViewCount="4773" Body="&lt;p&gt;On every helmet I've worn there is always some extra length to the straps that run through the buckle that secures the helmet to ones head.  Most helmet's these days come with one or two small rubber rings or something similar in which to loop the extra length on the strap.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to do this than the ways I've tried?  The most obvious way is to simply cut the slack off but I'm not really after that.  I'd like to see how others finish their helmet straps to be the most comfortable around the neck and the least intrusive.  Below are pictures of: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;unfinished straps&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;method 1&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&#xA;method 2&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been riding with method 1 and method 2 for awhile.  Is there a better way to secure the straps other than cutting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4w5zk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unfinished&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z5Fki.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;method 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OH3JJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2019-10-28T07:09:40.813" Title="What's the best way to secure helmet straps?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32018" CreationDate="2015-07-18T17:19:16.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much clearance do you have on the front wheel? Doesn’t look like you can fit much more than 25mm width there. With your weight and luggage I’d go as wide as possible. Maybe 25mm in the front and 28mm in the back (if the brake has enough clearance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it also depends on the quality of the roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T17:19:16.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T17:38:04.207" Score="4" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got back from a ride. On my way back, my rear tire suffered from a side wall blow out. The area that went looks like it has been completely shredded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The area feels like it's been melted, with sticky melty rubber covering it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire itself hasn't done 500km, I got it last summer, but haven't been able to ride much. There really shouldn't be any reason I know that the tire failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires are Michelin Pro4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cAxp2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just so you know, each of those fibers had come apart completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13165" LastEditorUserId="13165" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T14:23:29.447" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T23:55:00.040" Title="Why did my tire fail?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T18:20:01.353" Score="2" ViewCount="2141" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike feels like it is getting stuck when I start pedaling or increase pressure as I go up hills. Of course, I checked to see if the brakes were rubbing but they are completely free of the wheel. When I try to start riding after a stop I get the rubbing noise and feeling of tremendous friction but once I reach a constant speed it disappears. It will reappear as I speed up quickly or climb a serious hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20522" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T22:15:47.197" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T02:40:03.667" Title="Bike feels like it is getting stuck when I start pedaling or increase pressure as I go up hills" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32023" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T19:02:26.760" Score="1" ViewCount="3764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I measured from the middle of each sprocket and it's 17 inches. Not sure what length of chain I should get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20523" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T05:55:49.943" Title="Chain length. how long or how many links" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-11-28T17:43:32.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T19:09:45.143" Score="4" ViewCount="1183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am struggling to diagnose the cause of an intermittent side to side wobble of the cogs on a rear wheel. Here's what I know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Periodically (maybe every 10-15 minutes) during a ride, I experience slippage between gears not associated with shifting.  A glance at the rear cassette while continuing to pedal reveals the cause: &lt;strong&gt;the rear cogs are all wobbling side to side, a few mm each way&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wobble is in sync with the rotation of the cogs: slow pedaling = slow wobble, fast pedaling = fast wobble, no pedaling = no wobble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I stop pedaling, coast, and then resume pedaling, the wobble goes away.&lt;/strong&gt;  I can't say for certain whether the inverse is true: that the wobble always starts after coasting, by the time I notice it, I can't be sure exactly when it started.  Nor can I say for certain that it goes away &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; time after I coast--I just know that by coasting (even briefly) and then pedaling, I can eliminate the wobble (for a while).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;With the wheel off the bike, I have not been able to reproduce the wobble&lt;/strong&gt;.  There does not appear to be any plan in the hub or the cassette. I have checked that the cassette is securely tightened to the freehub and it is. There is not noticeable play in either the freehub or the cassette.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the wheel on the bike and the bike in a stand, I haven't been able to reproduce the wobble either. I have tried moving the pedals slowly while watching the rear cassette, stopping the pedals, and re-starting and ran out of patience before seeing the wobble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do not believe the whole wheel is wobbling. This is tough to know for sure since I have only witnessed the behavior on the bike, but to my distracted on-the-bike eye, the wheel is rim is rolling true while the cogs wobble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The hub is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velocityusa.com/p/road-rear-hub&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velocity Road Rear Hub&lt;/a&gt;, the cassette is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/pg-970-cassette&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SRAM PG-970 9 Speed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the most likely causes of this behavior? What additional diagnostic or troubleshooting steps would you recommend?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7602" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T05:25:43.167" Title="What is causing an intermittent side to side wobble of the rear cogs?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;freehub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32025" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T19:19:36.827" Score="1" ViewCount="1716" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Raleigh technium , recently broke at the rear dropout. Angelo had a post w a picture of a broken rear dropout and commented, that this failure on a steel frame was totally repairable, btw...Would really like to fix mine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20524" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T20:35:58.587" Title="How to repair a broken steel frame, at the rear drop out /chainstay location" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35347" CreationDate="2015-07-18T19:30:12.410" Score="2" ViewCount="2855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 115 kg. Today I took two bicycle rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;42:41 time, 12.1 km distance, 72 m elevation, 17.1 km/h avg. speed, 33.1 km/h max. speed,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50:50 time, 11.7 km distance, 17 m elevation, 13.9 km/h avg. speed, 32.8 km/h max. speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strava calcualted folowing figures about energy in each of these rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first: 405 calories / 363 kJ energy output,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;second: 353 calories / 317 kJ energy output.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever since I remember I was always told, that 1 kcal = 4,1855 kJ. So these numbers are weird or incorrect. What is &lt;em&gt;energy output&lt;/em&gt; in Strava or in general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13716" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T04:27:09.567" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T18:36:32.160" Title="What is energy output in Strava application?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;strava&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32026" CreationDate="2015-07-18T19:56:57.347" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Strava's Help page :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Energy Output&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Energy Output measures the amount of work you've done during a ride,&#xA;  expressed in kilojoules (KJ). It is a factor of how much you're&#xA;  pedaling, how fast you're pedaling and how much force you're exerting&#xA;  on the pedals (measured in W). Power output is most accurately taken&#xA;  from a power meter, but if you don't have a power meter we give a&#xA;  rough approximation through our power estimator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means how much energy was delivered to make the wheels turn. As Daniel R Hicks mentioned, calories in that case mean how much &quot;food&quot; energy your body burned, which will always be higher than the energy you give to the wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T19:56:57.347" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32025" CreationDate="2015-07-18T20:35:58.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently Raleight Techniums are weird combination of aluminum and steel. Rear triangle of Techniums are steel (chro-moly, I'd wager) so they should be repairable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the pictures of Technium rear dropouts, they seem to be cast pieces that are brazed to the rear triangle. If the joint between the dropout and seat/chain stay is broken, then the fix is matter of re-brazing the dropout. If the dropout itself has cracked, then it needs to be welded together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, you need to take the frame to shop that can handle frame repairs. To do it yourself, you'd need a workshop and either TIG welding machine or oxy-acetylene torch and brazing materials. Not a job to the faint hearted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure: I'm a amateur frame maker. I've made couple of lugged frames and fixed a broken frame by welding it, so I have some idea what I'm talking about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19611" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T20:35:58.587" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32023" CreationDate="2015-07-18T21:28:54.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually there is just one length available with a bit over 100 links. Of course you have to shorten it so that it’s not slack on the smallest gear combination and not too tight (i.e. breaking the rear derailleur) on the biggest gear combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T21:28:54.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T21:35:49.953" Score="0" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a small town home and have limited indoor bike storage. The space that I do have outdoors is too small for products like the tidy tent. Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20525" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T21:35:49.953" Title="Best outdoor bike storage?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-07-20T12:49:54.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32035" CreationDate="2015-07-19T05:49:46.557" Score="2" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may get too math-heavy, but it seems that only a few variables are needed to estimate the optimum slope to descend without gaining/losing speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked around, but wasn't able to find anything directly relevant- just discussions about drag at high speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10514" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T17:08:44.973" Title="Descending without braking: where's the sweet spot?" Tags="&lt;physics&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32031" CreationDate="2015-07-19T06:09:23.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drag increases with speed.  Drag is both rolling resistance and wind resistance.  A steeper slope is more gravitational pull.  Terminal velocity is when the gravitational pull equals the drag.  On a mild slope it will be only a few miles an hour.  On a very steep slope it might be over 50 mph.  A 7% slope is around 20 mph on road bike on a road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-07-19T08:57:27.380" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T08:57:27.380" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32031" CreationDate="2015-07-19T08:29:09.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newtons second Law: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;F=ma&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where m is your mass (including everything, bicycle, luggage), &#xA;a is acceleration. you look for solutions with a=0&#xA;here force F consists of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;gravity: m* g* cos(α), g is gravitational acceleration, earth average: g=9.81m/s², α is the angle between path and vertical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;air drag: ρ/2*c *A * v² where ρ is air density, c drag coefficient, A reference area, v your velocity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;friction: d*v, where d is your coefficient of friction&#xA;your input: Fh. If you have a power meter Fh=P/v where P is your power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;than you solve for α:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;α = acos((Fh - ρ/2 * c * A * v²- d * v) / (m*g))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now you're somewhat stuck, because some of the parameters are hard to measure: c *A and d. There are numbers around for that ( c *A= 0.4, d=1Wh/km ) but the air drag part depends on your clothes, how you are actually sitting on the bike etc. Friction coefficient depends not only on your tires and wheel ball bearing but also on the road surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However as a cyclist you rarely get too choose your slope of descent, and there is always some equilibrium velocity where you neither lose or gain speed, since air drag grows with velocity squared - at high velocity it will dominate. At low velocity, without input of you, either gravity or friction will dominate, since they grow linearly in velocity. Of course that equilibrium velocity may be beyond what you can go through curves or what you're comfortable with, or what cars are going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T08:29:09.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2015-07-19T08:37:43.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A small point; but, recumbents were banned from racing with normal bikes early in the twentieth century - they were too fast.   I have a homemade tadpole (now retired due to hip problems), I (and my dog) rode it for about 12 years in preference to my normal road bike.  It weighs the same as an MTB but is way faster.   I rode it almost daily and on many occasions found myself passing cycling clubs on their carbon fibre, mega dollar bikes.  Except up hills of course - very slow.;    I'm 65 BTW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20528" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T08:37:43.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32031" CreationDate="2015-07-19T09:13:58.760" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are going at constant speed when the driving force from gravity Fg is equal to the drag (air resistance) Fd plus friction (rolling resistance) Ff:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fg = Fd + Ff&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When coasting down a hill, the driving force is the component of the gravitational force parallel to the road:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fg = m g sin(a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, a is the slope (angle with the horizontal), m is the mass of bike and rider, and g is the gravitational constant. Slopes on roads are often measured in percent, and for small angles sin(a) is equal to the slope in percent. e.g. for a slope of 10% (100m descent on 1km of road) sin(a) = 0.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drag is proportional to the square of the velocity v, the projected frontal area A and a drag coefficient cd, and the density of air rho:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fd = 1/2 rho v^2 cd A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drag coefficient cd depends on the shape of the object - streamlined bodies have a low cd, but for a bicycle with rider I find approximately cd = 1 in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_coefficient&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;. I'd estimate the frontal area of a cyclist to about 0.4m^2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Friction (rolling resistance) is proportional to a coefficient cr and the normal force (the weight component perpendicular to the road) Fn = m g cos(a):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ff = cr m g cos(a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coefficient of rolling resistance cr will depend on the bike (lubrication, tire pressure, surface roughness etc.). For car tires on concrete, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling_resistance#Comparing_rolling_resistance_of_highway_vehicles_and_trains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; gives cr=0.01, so the Ff would be about 10N. That's about a tenth of the driving force on a 10% slope (see above), but on a rough road surface it might well be much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we end up with &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;m g sin(a) = Fg = Fd + Ff = 1/2 rho v^2 cd A + cr m g cos(a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solving this for v gives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;v^2 = 2 m g (sin(a) - cr cos(a) ) / (rho cd A)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting in g=10m/s^2, rho=1.2kg/m^3, cd=1, A=0.4m^2, and m=100kg (nice round number for rider and bike), I get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;v = sqrt( sin(a)-cr cos(a) ) * 64 m/s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rolling resistance cr essentially is like reducing the slope somewhat, so a slope of 10%=0.1 with cr=0.01 is the same as a slope of 9% on a perfectly rolling bike. So, for a slope of 10%, the sqrt becomes 0.3, and I get a speed of 19m/s = 70km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not unrealistic, but perhaps a bit faster than I would have expected. However, there are simplified assumptions, friction and rolling resistance is probably higher and cd and A have a big effect, they all depend on the bike and the rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the drag equation you can see why the racing position is with the head down. This position decreases the frontal area A considerable, compared to an upright position, and it makes the body somewhat more streamlined (reduces cd). As the drag goes with the square of the velocity, this gets more important at higher speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastEditorUserId="18723" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T17:08:44.973" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T17:08:44.973" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-19T09:26:47.570" Score="2" ViewCount="1309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know wether the brake quick release lever on the Ultegra 6800 can be kept in any intermediate position between completely closed and completely opened when riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20529" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T18:18:44.437" Title="Correct position of brake quick release on Ultegra 6800" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-19T13:32:31.460" Score="1" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a title that refers to the person who selects the athletes who will integrate the national team (for instance, in the Olympic Games)? In football(soccer), there is a Selector (&lt;a href=&quot;https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/S%C3%A9lectionneur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sélectionneur in French&lt;/a&gt;) that will create the national team. What is the equivalent in bicycle racing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20531" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T01:56:30.433" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T03:42:58.783" Title="Is there a title that refers to the person who selects the athletes who will join the national team?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;terminology&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32037" CreationDate="2015-07-19T14:55:11.850" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unsure of what you're asking; from my limited knowledge of racing, teams, and the Olympics, I thought there were many privately sponsored teams, and if individuals want to become a part of the Olympic TeamUSA cycling team, they have to qualify based on their stats (e.g.: in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacycling.org/road-category-upgrade-guidelines.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cat 1 races&lt;/a&gt;) It doesn't seem like there would be a stand-alone position for a person to select them, other than perhaps the Olympic team coach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone who knows more about this, please correct me where needed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20452" LastEditorUserId="20452" LastEditDate="2015-07-19T15:20:21.223" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T15:20:21.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32031" CreationDate="2015-07-19T15:51:06.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In almost every slope you will hit a speed &quot;sweet spot&quot; where the gravity pull and drag from the wind will cancel each other out, this can be at 70 km/h for a 8% slope in aero position or 15 km/h for a 2% slope on an hybrid bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T15:51:06.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32041" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-16T14:20:22.310" Score="8" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to do a bike trip, and it would be useful for me to know how much of actual climbing I would have to do. I wasn't quite sure to post it on travel.se or bicycles.SE, as it's also partly about trip planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if it is possible to find the coordinates of roads, rather than the surface they're on.&#xA;I thought Google maps and or Earth might be able to do this, as they collect streetview data by car. But they seem to only use satellite data.&#xA;The difference is nicely illustrated at the bridge of Millau.&#xA;Here you can clearly see that the route calculations uses the bridge, yet maps this on the  ground surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know any way to get the actual GPS coordinates of planned routes over roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWdFL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;Source: Google Earth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20539" OwnerDisplayName="ROIMaison" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-19T22:50:59.783" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T22:50:59.783" Title="Is it possible to find the actual GPS coordinates of roads, rather than the surface they're on?" Tags="&lt;planning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-19T17:15:50.843" Score="1" ViewCount="1233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new Shimano 3-ring crankset for my aged MTB (5-speed at the rear) and updated the BB to the recommended length (9.5mm longer than I previously had with 2-ring cranks)for the new cranks. Now the chain rubs on the outer side of the rear derailleur cage when shifted to the large sprocket and the middle ring. Does this suggest the chainline of the new cranks is too big?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20536" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T17:15:50.843" Title="Chain rubbing on rear derailleur cage after replacing crankset" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32041" CreationDate="2015-07-19T19:03:25.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the UK, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cyclestreet&lt;/a&gt; does this. I just tried a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclestreets.net/journey/45351359/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;route over the Forth Road Bridge&lt;/a&gt;, starting and ending on the shore. On the elevation profile you can clearly see that it goes up to 40m (the height of the bridge) and is not projected onto the surface, which would be sea level:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WMxYj.png&quot; alt=&quot;Elevation profile&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclestreet is based in map data from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.openstreetmap.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;OpenStreetMap&lt;/a&gt;, but it is not clear if they use also data from other sources. Presumably OSM has elevation data, but I could not find a way to see this in OSM directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T19:03:25.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32047" CreationDate="2015-07-19T21:53:00.773" Score="3" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a big dude, I weigh 250 lbs, and I kill bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing I have found so far is putting 12 gauge spokes on my Mt. Bike, which has reduced the number of spoke I break monthly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Cannodale Adventure 5, and I destroyed the rear wheel in February.  Anyhow, it had 700c wheels, and I want to replace the 700c wheel with another, but with 12 gauge spokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been to 2 bike shops, and they seem confused, asking questions like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how did it break, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how many spokes do I break in a year? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do I have them fixed? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;why do things wear out so fast for me? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... which all comes back to being a big dude putting loads of miles on a bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They want to know more pertinent things too, like freewheel or cassette, and type of rim. Which the answer is I don't think I care. Then they ask other questions like what the wheel spacing is, and I have no idea what that even means. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what details do I need to be able to replace a wheel for a frame which I do not have the original wheel to? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What details should I consider to get a sturdy wheel for someone of my girth? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20540" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T12:51:34.230" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T12:51:34.230" Title="Trying to replace a wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32044" CreationDate="2015-07-19T22:27:52.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;cosset&quot; you probably mean &quot;cassette&quot;. It's a type of rear hub construction and is the norm for modern bikes. Freewheels were used in older bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel spacing is the distance between rear dropouts, ie the width of the hub that fit in the rear fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can manage it, the easiest way to answer all the questions by bike shops is to take the frame with you. That way the mechanics can take all measurements themselves. If that's not possible, providing year and model of the bicycle should do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sturdier wheel, go for more spokes and good quality components. 48 seems to be maximum spoke count available for wheels. You might need to have the wheel custom built to make it fit your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19611" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T22:27:52.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32044" CreationDate="2015-07-20T00:12:47.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is technically not a mtn bike.  The width is not published on the site and as it is a hybrid it could be a few widths.  Take the bike or wheel to the shop.  If you no longer have the wheel then take the bike.  You should have saved the wheel if for nothing more than I need one of these.  Even if it is a freewheel you may want to go freehub if you get a higher end wheel.  If it was a cassette and you threw it out then you threw away a cassette.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ballistic wheelset is going to be more than you paid for the bike. I would not put a lot of money in a wheelset for that bike. If you have broken several spokes then you are going to break that bike sooner rather than later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 250 lbs you may want to consider a steel mtn bike or touring bike.  That is not a bike built to take a beating.  A bike like a Surly Cross Check or Org. Higher end a Niner or Salsa - or lots of others that are getting back into steel. Don't put a $1000 set of wheels on a throw away bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have not ridden since the February but you put loads of miles on a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T00:12:47.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32044" CreationDate="2015-07-20T01:42:27.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, the number one cause of broken spokes is not enough tension. When spokes aren't tight enough they load and unload with each revolution of the wheel – basically they are getting bent back and forth each time they go around. Over time they break, just like bending a paperclip. The most likely place for the spokes to break are at the bend at the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any good wheel builder knows this and will take great care to get the spokes uniformly tensioned. Once the spokes are tight enough they don't load and unload on each revolution and they will last a good long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what you need to know to order a new wheel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The size of the wheel: 700 C on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rear dropout spacing: you can measure this by taking out the rear wheel and measuring the distance between the dropouts (the part of the frame where the wheel attaches) in millimeters. Odds are good it will be 135 mm, although 130 mm is also likely. They need to know this to choose the right hub width.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that the wheel builder should be telling you (or at least making recommendations). I think the bike shop questions were being asked to learn about how you ride and care for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you've been riding hard (jumping curbs, bouncing through pot holes, etc.) I'm very suspicious that your spokes were too loose. Really, you're not &quot;too big&quot; for a decent bike. Trek, for example, says their road bikes are good for riders up to 300 pounds, and mountain bikes are good for 275 (if I recall correctly). I'd guess that the mountain bikes are lower due to the rough service they are likely to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I'd expect your wheel builder to recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use heavier spokes, use more. I'd go with more (at least 36 or even 40). On our tandem our wheels are built with 40 14-gauge double butted spokes. They are holding up just fine, and our team weight is 360 pounds, with the bike and bags the load is up around 425 pounds. We're using nice sturdy rims, but the big thing is that I built them with good tension on the spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the biggest tires that will fit and run them with relatively low pressure. This will enable the tire to absorb road shock, and being big it let you run a lower pressure without risk of &quot;snakebite&quot; punctures in your tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider using an asymmetrical rim in the rear. Asymmetric rims offset the spokes to the left a bit to help equalize the bracing angles of the spokes (on a symmetric rim the drive side (right) spokes are much tighter because they are at a steeper angle. This is because the flange of the hub is moved to the right to make room for the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T01:42:27.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-20T01:45:01.533" Score="0" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am getting this weird experience.My tube holds the air when removed from wheel and tyre but lose it once in tyre mounted on wheel.I removed it 4 times and checked for bubbles in water bucket.No puncture.Air holds even for days out side wheel and once it is inserted in Tyre ,mounted on wheel and pumped the air,it lose in a min .What could be the reason?Some ghost/spirit playing games?I am really puzzled .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20543" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T02:56:22.413" Title="My tube lose air once inside Tyre and mounted on wheel?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10099" CreationDate="2015-07-20T01:53:57.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar situation this afternoon. Air temps 95+f. Tire pressure 105. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed a click sound. I thought maybe my magnet was touching bike computer pickup. Another rider happened to notice the bubble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I began my return toward home just clicking along. After about 2 miles the sound was gone. I looked and could see where it had been. Apparently ruptured leaving a minuscule indent on the tread (slick). No evidence on the inside. Returned home 20miles w/o further incident. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20545" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T01:53:57.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32048" CreationDate="2015-07-20T09:42:08.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How fast? It is completely normal that you lose pressure. My road bike goes from ~100psi to ~80psi over the course of a week with its current tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10914" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T09:42:08.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10785" CreationDate="2015-07-20T09:59:35.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I am childish roadie. My commutes often end up as races, but I do 300+km a week, so I have this one pretty much down now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a back pack as paniers on a skinny road bike is just wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I leave shoes at work unless I am taking holiday. Trousers I fold neatly and I tend to wear the same ones for a week (excepting lunch time accidents).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take 3-4 shirts with me on a Monday and I fold them round a piece of cardboard or a magazine. These then go in the laptop section of my backpack (laptop stays at work, and I have other means for working remotely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also carry enough underwear/socks for the week. I take the used ones home in an unused bidon or my jersey pockets if I do not feel like taking even the smaller backpack. The socks I cycle in or not the ones I wear during the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mondays mornings and Fridays evenings suck, but the rest of the week I can don the lycra and fly :-) If I am organised enough, I give my bag to a colleague who lives in a nearby hamlet and collect it from his place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; ensure I leave a complete set of clothing at work. I have previously had to stop to buy trousers on the way to work :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10914" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T09:59:35.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32023" CreationDate="2015-07-20T11:22:10.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a single speed bike I used a chain with 112 links and cut it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could just count the links of the old chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user20550" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T11:22:10.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32054" CreationDate="2015-07-20T11:59:59.337" Score="11" ViewCount="5329" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recent experience with &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; Google Maps shows that it constantly leads me against traffic on a one-way streets in Europe in general and in Poland (where I live) in particular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any laws or regulations for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume Google wouldn't set a track that would violate local laws. But, on the other hand, it seems quite unnatural for me to bike against traffic on a one-way street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And recently I have found a typical one-way street with a typical one-way signs on both ends:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOMBF.png&quot; alt=&quot;one way sign / no entry sign&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And each sign was additionally labelled with a special label saying &quot;Bikes excluded&quot;, which would suggest that biking against traffic on a one-way streets is strictly prohibited unless otherwise stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13716" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T20:02:24.993" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T15:53:59.837" Title="Biking against traffic on a one-way streets in Europe" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;&lt;europe&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32053" CreationDate="2015-07-20T12:12:06.627" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Holland, were I assume cycling is much more common than in Poland, the kind of traffic sign you describe are abundant (see example, &quot;uitgezonderd&quot; is Dutch for &quot;except for&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hKm7O.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hKm7O.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And cycling against traffic in a one-way street without the sign is indeed illegal. The same rules seem to apply in Poland, though I cannot find a reliable source for Polands cycling laws. As to why Google Maps suggests those routes remains a mystery, but it doesn't seem to happen only in Poland, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theguardian.com/environment/bike-blog/2012/jul/12/google-maps-uk-cycle-routes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20551" LastEditorUserId="13716" LastEditDate="2019-03-21T15:53:59.837" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T15:53:59.837" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32053" CreationDate="2015-07-20T13:14:53.950" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to FatHippos answer: The same applies to Germany.&#xA;In my home town there was a survey of all one-way roads between 2004 and 2010, which resulted in most of them now being open for bikes in both directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These roads are also marked explicitly with a sign like the one you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/et36c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;taken from www.freiburg.de/pb/,Lde/231548.html&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T13:14:53.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-20T13:37:50.567" Score="0" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.njuskalo.hr/image-bigger/mtb-bicikli/rog-kanin-dosta-novih-dijelova-slika-2716844.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.njuskalo.hr/image-bigger/mtb-bicikli/rog-kanin-dosta-novih-dijelova-slika-2716844.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weight...heavy ca. 17 kilos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20552" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T14:14:06.170" Title="Please tell me what type of bike this is?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32053" CreationDate="2015-07-20T13:48:49.377" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also a Czech version of allowing you to bike 'the other direction'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IieSt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Czech version&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biking against the one way direction is not much of a crime here and where the traffic is low, it's usually tolerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd advise against biking the wrong direction in traffic heavy places like city centers, though, even when it's allowed. These signs (and corresponding regulation) is still a novelty here and you can get into some difficult situations in a narrow place with an overstressed truck driver or a distracted car driver used to this street being one way all his life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20553" LastEditorUserId="20553" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T19:39:00.500" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T19:39:00.500" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32056" CreationDate="2015-07-20T14:14:06.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to be what some call a BSO: Bike Shaped Object. (This is a derogative term).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It indeed mimics a Mountain Bike, a Dual Suspension Mountain Bike, but as you state it is really heavy, it means it is made of steel, and not necessarily good grade steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what the picture shows, it also appears to be fitted with low level components, but the headset appears to be 1 1/4 inch and fitted with a good RST fork with threadless steerer tube and stem. The rear suspension looks really cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T14:14:06.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32036" CreationDate="2015-07-20T17:07:25.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be fully closed. The lever is only intended to be opened to allow the tire to pass during a wheel change or if you hit a pothole and knock your wheel badly out of true. If your pads are too close to the rim you make an adjustment with the barrel adjuster. Riding with the quick release open compromises the braking power of the caliper. You may not notice while riding along normally but in an emergency stop at speed it absolutely will result in slower braking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T17:07:25.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-20T21:09:33.693" Score="0" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://images.craigslist.org/01010_iSEhT1sECUO_600x450.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bike http://images.craigslist.org/01010_iSEhT1sECUO_600x450.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What model/year is this bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering because the owner of the bike does not know!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20567" LastEditorUserId="3631" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T01:55:24.270" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T01:55:24.270" Title="What model/year is this bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-06-13T12:56:22.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32048" CreationDate="2015-07-20T21:51:38.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In normal course ,similar like yours but presently within a min after pumping air.I checked the tube outside the tyre and wheel again by filling more than 15psi air ,as per the suggestion by Daniel R.Hicks and found one recently fixed puncture was leaking. So found the issue and will fix that puncture again .Hope it would solve the issue. There was no leak in valve at approximate 15psi air in tube. Thanks all for your suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20543" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T21:51:38.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31433" CreationDate="2015-07-20T21:57:31.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since buying a camera i have experienced very few instances of road rage.  As soon as a driver starts with the anger i just point to the camera and ask them to smile for youtube.  you can get decent helmet cams for arounf 30 quid if you look around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20568" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T21:57:31.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32061" CreationDate="2015-07-20T23:08:47.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I've never owned a cannondale bike) judging from the parts :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a triple crankset&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;bar end shifters&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cantilever brakes&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the rims seem wider than typical road bike rims.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a long cage dérailleur to accommodate big cassette (Not sure since the pic isn't the drive side)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's likely a touring bike, so it's probably a modified Cannondale SR300, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cannondale.com/nam_en/touring-17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Touring 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T00:02:09.127" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T00:02:09.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32037" CreationDate="2015-07-21T00:54:22.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct title in English speaking nations is Selector. The Selectors use their knowledge of the capabilities and nature of the riders to select those that represent their region or nation. Results are important but if look up any selection criteria you will quickly see behaviour standing out as one of if not the key decider on who gets to represent their country of the elite riders. Selectors work in groups and often are made up of head and team coaches and other national federation members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Selectors also play a role in identifying talent and bring young riders into the high performance programs offered by the national federations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many hoops to jump through before being selected as a representative. Firstly a rider must be eligible this involves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;being a citizen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;holding a racing licence&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clean drug tests&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attend sanctioned events and training as required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once eligible selection is then based on a number of factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;results and performances at national and international events&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UCI world cup points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;performance in selection trials&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ability to work well in a team&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;would the athlete win an Olympic spot and could they go on to win a medal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;technique in team races&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;behaviour and attitude&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sport science results&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fit in team composition (mainly in track events)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, selection is based on not only results but a wider analysis of the rider. The Selectors still have a large role in ensuring that the national team is the best group of riders rather than the group of best riders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T03:42:58.783" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T03:42:58.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32053" CreationDate="2015-07-21T01:36:22.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In France, the sign was made explicit and a special contraflow lane was added. All roads where you can cycle against the flow on a one-way road is marked with this sign:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjOMP.gif&quot; alt=&quot;French cycling sign&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very common occurrence in cities where cycling is popular! See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contraflow_lane&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; article for a bit more background, although the french version is more extensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20571" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T01:36:22.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21230" CreationDate="2015-07-21T02:31:05.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practically speaking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the &quot;virtual geometries of the bikes is similar (in other words if you measured the bikes as if there was a horizontal top tube), the big differences will have to do with fit. You have three choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A standard frame with a horizontal top tube.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A frame where the top tube hits that head tube at the same place a horizontal tube top tube would hit, and then slopes &lt;strong&gt;down&lt;/strong&gt; to the seat tube. This often gets called a &quot;compact&quot; geometry.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A frame where the top tube hits the seat tube at the same place that a horizontal top tube would hit, and then slopes &lt;strong&gt;up&lt;/strong&gt; to the head tube. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rivbike.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rivendell&lt;/a&gt; makes bikes like this and calls it an &quot;expanded&quot; geometry. I don't know if others do this as well or not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An expanded geometry results in a stem that is higher than it would be on a bike with a horizontal top tube which in turn makes it easier to get the handle bars high relative to the saddle. To me this also looks a bit better than a standard frame with a tall stem. There is a bit more material in the frame, so it is probably heavier by some tiny bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A compact geometry means that you get a lower standover for the same (virtual) frame size. This seems like a nice feature in a mountain bike. It probably makes the bike a bit heavier than a standard frame since (I'd guess) that seat posts are heavier than seat tubes and the top tube is longer than on a standard frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you want in a bike any of these choices can result in a good fit. So some of it comes down to what looks good to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T02:31:05.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19032" CreationDate="2015-07-21T02:36:42.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone who commutes with a CX bike and loves it, that bike shop employee is completely full of it. If he's seriously suggesting that you're going to corner better with a road bike in bad conditions than a CX bike he's a complete tool. What kind of tire you're using is the obvious consideration, not road vs. CX. Given that you can run wider tires with a CX bike and can go slick or knobby, the answer should be obvious. Northern Europeans started CX as a way to still ride something similar to their road bikes in the winter so...yeah.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20572" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T02:36:42.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="82" CreationDate="2015-07-21T02:54:11.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I terms of the &quot;am I too heavy for my tires?&quot; question, you can look for the specs on the tire maker's site. &lt;a href=&quot;http://schwalbetires.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe&lt;/a&gt; publishes a rated load for their tires, I'd expect that other reputable makers do as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a point of reference their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/Marathon_Plus_HS440&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marathon Plus tire&lt;/a&gt; is rated for a load of up to 90 kg / 198 pounds in a 32-622 size (probably at 6.55 bar / 95 psi). Since there are two tires, you'd be good for 180 kg (almost 400 pounds) with a pair of those tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T02:54:11.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32053" CreationDate="2015-07-21T07:06:54.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In UK it would not be allowed unless there was an additional sign stating otherwise. The same rules apply to all vehicles on the road. I don't think Google maps necessarily actually always accurately provide the best route.  For example from my house it would better to get off the bicycle and cross the park on foot than cycle around the roads to get to the train station. Also, provided you have a free permit, you are allowed to cycle on waterway towpaths in the UK but Google map apps doesn't know that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20575" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T07:06:54.610" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32079" CreationDate="2015-07-21T08:13:13.673" Score="33" ViewCount="18852" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a complete beginner cycling and I've recently started 3 times a week commuting on a hybrid 8 miles to work and 8 miles back. On the way there is a 5% gradient hill about half a mile long which is great fun to whizz down at 30mph on the way to work. It really puts a smile on my face!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not so fun on the way back though! Every day I end up having to get off the bike and walk up the steepest part of the hill as I find my legs just give up the ghost - despite my bike having 27 gears, and I've used them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to train to get up the hill? Is it just a matter of keep on trying or is there something specific I can do to help me conquer this hill? I'm assuming it's just my poor level of fitness that means I can't keep it up. It doesn't help that I'm 220lbs - which is why I have started cycling to get that number down as much as possible. Any tips greatly appreciated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference the bike is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/new.escape.1/22033/83615/&quot;&gt;Giant Escape 1 (2016)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain ring: 26/36/48 and cassette 9/11-34&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&amp;amp;KB=26,36,48&amp;amp;RZ=11,13,15,17,20,23,26,30,34&amp;amp;UF=2125&amp;amp;TF=90&amp;amp;SL=2.6&amp;amp;UN=MPH&quot;&gt;Gear Calc here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20577" LastEditorUserId="20577" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T12:04:54.857" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T06:49:05.467" Title="How to climb a hill as a beginner" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-21T08:18:14.633" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just keep on doing the same route and you'll see progress very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also this will soon not be true:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's not so fun on the way back though&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tips to make it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure that the tyres are inflated correctly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure your drivetrain runs smooth and the chain is lubed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make sure your seat height is correct (ask your LBS if unsure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;conserve energy while climbing and use a small gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;learn about the perfect pedal stroke (google it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep your upper body relaxed - do not tense&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;inhale a lot, from the nose. if you find yourself out of breath, slow down and also consider using a &quot;breathe right&quot; (google it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do not do this every day. keep it 3 days per week as you said, and don't do much physical activity (especially leg related) in the days between&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastEditorUserId="908" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T08:20:31.407" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T08:20:31.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-21T08:58:41.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bikes gearing might not be ideal for you. Your bike will be like most and have a large overlap. The size of the cogs is what is most important here. If after a few rides you are not seeing improvement, think about getting the bike setup with lower gearing.  Its often an easy job (But can get expensive depending on all sorts of things) and does not cost much to get the LBS to do it for you.  What are the sizes of your chain rings (These are the ones that are attached to the pedal cranks, particularly smallest) and the cluster (The cogs on the rear wheel - especially the largest) - It is the smallest chain ring to largest cog that determines the lowest gear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T08:58:41.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-21T10:05:40.470" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no shortcuts, it's about building the legs, and lungs, and body. There may be some factors that could make it a little easier, but the main factor is getting strong enough, which takes some time and some dedication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting in the easiest gear may not be the best choice as it can make a climb seem endless. Try to get into the hill at good speed, with your legs cycling at a comfy cadence, not like a windmill, and then try to maintain that cadence, when it gets hard you can either step up on the pedals, or go to an easier gear, maybe do both in that order... But keep doing it, maybe do some leisure rides that have some climbs that you can do, and go up those... It's about getting your body used to it mostly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T08:42:09.530" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T08:42:09.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T10:49:03.087" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hoods for my &lt;a href=&quot;http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=15a43395-e3c7-4b2e-881f-50f23fc7718e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1993 camapaganolo chorus levers&lt;/a&gt; need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest some inexpensive hoods that would be compatible apart from a period Campagnolo part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19542" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T14:29:11.017" Title="Hoods for 1993 Camapaganolo Chorus levers" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-21T11:04:23.980" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gearing of your bike seems reasonable, the 26 front/34 rear combination will (eventually) make climbing hills easy. But till then…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you do &lt;strong&gt;anything&lt;/strong&gt; else, take @cherouvim's advice and make sure you seat is at a reasonable height. It should be high enough that if you place a heel on the low pedal your leg is almost fully extended (just short of locked). From there you can fiddle around a bit with the height. Ultimately the seat should be as high as you can get it without needing to rock your hips as you pedal. If your seat is too low climbing will be &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; hard!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first question I'd ask is what happens when you run out of steam climbing the hill? Are your legs aching and burning or are you breathing really hard? The reason that I ask is that the different answers point to different immediate problems and possible solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're legs are burning, it's a good bet that you're not using a low enough gear. In this case, try shifting to a low gear &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; earlier in the climb, let your feet &quot;spin&quot; on the pedals. You'll slow down, but the climb should be much easier if you do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you're breathing super hard, you may be spinning too fast. It may seem counter-intuitive at first, but it may help to use a slightly higher gear, but I'd still make sure that you're starting the climb in a relatively easy gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other's have said, I don't think it be too long before you notice that you are doing much better on the hill. I live in a relatively hilly part of the US and a similar situation to you. I was out of shape from years of sedentary work and infrequent riding. So the final things I want to suggest are ideas for keeping going until better fitness kicks in (I think we're talking weeks, not months):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pedaling faster (at a higher cadence) in a low gear is usually easier than pushing harder in a higher gear. There was a good answer a while back that explained nicely how to find a good cadence for you. I'll see if I can find it and link to it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Choose a strategy for the hill that seems to work for you (really any strategy, just some idea about what you want to try). Having a strategy will make it easier to see if you're making progress and it will also help you identify what to do differently if it feels too hard (e.g., legs really burning? try a lower gear). One idea I'd suggest is to try starting in a lowish, but not your lowest, gear – for me it is very comforting to know I've got a lower gear I can drop down to when the hill gets hard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep track of your progress. Notice where you are on the hill when you &quot;bail out.&quot; As you get close to that point on each ride psych yourself up to make it or even make it a bit farther. For me, it is easier to push through burning in my legs than through gasping for breath, so I tend to moderate my climbing so that I can breath easily and tough it out on my legs (but that is me, you might have a different way). The important thing is to have some standard for progress so that you can see you're gains – even before you can make the whole hill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Practice standing as you climb, you might find it easier to climb standing. For me standing helps on some hills, but I have to start before my legs are too tired and my gear can't be too low. Standing is one of my &quot;escape hatches&quot; when I discover that I'm in too high a gear on a hill. Sometimes it is just fun, but not @andy256's comment below – it is not an efficient way to climb. The energy expenditure is actually higher than when spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that working really hard (too the point of exhaustion) a few times a week is necessary to stimulate muscle growth. I don't think you have to work hard for long (just a few minutes), but apparently it is essential.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two books that I've found really helpful are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bo17.htm&quot;&gt;Just Ride&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bo17b.htm&quot;&gt;Eat Bacon, Don't Jog&lt;/a&gt;, both by Grant Peterson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T05:02:15.310" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T05:02:15.310" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-21T11:14:00.880" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You already have some good, helpful answers. Well done for sticking at that hill! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you're riding on slick tires, and have them pumped up pretty hard. Soft, wide tires would rob much of your effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the hill. There are several things involved in sustained climbing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Technique. Do you rush at it the bottom? Or do you try to just settle to the easiest gear, and plug away? Until you have more strength, click down a gear as soon as the one you're in gets noticeably harder. You may find a rhythm like change pedal five strokes and change again. When you're in the lowest gear, just try to keep it going at whatever slow pace you can. Then try the advice in the &lt;em&gt;Strength&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Muscular endurance&lt;/em&gt; sections below. Another consideration is clipless pedals. If you don't have them, then consider getting them; they can make pedaling twice as efficient. If you do have them, make sure you are using them to give different muscles a rest. They can be used to pull up as well as drive the pedals all the way around. &#xA;Finally, if there are steeper parts of the hill, then try them on alternate rides. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Strength. You will certainly need to build up your strength. Do that by working the muscles hard for a short period. Give them a rest, then do it again. This is called interval training. Applying it to your hill, climb as far as you can, or for say, one minute. Then walk for a minute or two. Then get back on and ride for another minute, alternating until you're at the top. &lt;em&gt;Importantly&lt;/em&gt; take a day off the next day, to let those muscles recover and &lt;em&gt;grow&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Muscular endurance. When the strength training seems to be showing results (such as you can do the intervals with less discomfort), start increasing the duration of each one. Keep the recovery periods the same. It will not be long before you can climb the entire hill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heart and circulatory system. These are probably not used to the demands you are putting on them. Your heart has to grow stronger, and your circulatory system has to grow and develop also. So go steadily, and don't expect miracles. Listen to what you're body is telling you. If you're healthy, then steady work will produce the results. But if you have any concerns &lt;em&gt;do consult a physician&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lungs and blood oxygenation. These have to develop also. They will. Again, give them the work and they'll respond. But give them the time to develop. Try to breathe deeply and slowly. Breathe in quickly through your mouth if you have to, but breath out slowly through your nose. The slow out breath is the important part; it's the part of the breathing cycle where your lungs are extracting the oxygen. The &lt;em&gt;out through the nose&lt;/em&gt; part is good for control, and also when it's warmer to retain moisture.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't rush to change your bike. Get experience with this one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep at it! It will not be long before you look back at this time, and use it for motivation to overcome other challenges!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt; In response to your update on the gearing - the gears you have look fine. One day you'll look back and say &lt;em&gt;with these gears I can climb vertical walls&lt;/em&gt;! So just stick at it. When you can climb the whole hill in the lowest gear, work up to climbing in the next lowest. Change up and down as you need to. Eventually you'll be be able to climb the whole thing in that gear ... keep doing it until one day you can climb it on the middle chain ring :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T12:18:00.637" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T12:18:00.637" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32082" CreationDate="2015-07-21T11:25:18.450" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a used bike but I'm unsure of the condition of the brifters (Campy Chorus 10 alloys). When set up, the brake lever is pulled outwards by the brake cable, away from the shifting pedal. As a result when the bike is stationary, the shifters look like this. I don't think this is right... does anybody have any tips on if this is how they're supposed to be or if there's a broken component in the shifters causing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Chris!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXnGK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20580" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T11:49:56.413" Title="Campy Chorus Shifter" Tags="&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32081" CreationDate="2015-07-21T11:49:56.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's this horizontal pin on the brake lever next to the hoods. It's meant to open the brakes for easier wheel changes as Campy brakes don't have release levers on the calipers. It seems be in the 'released' position. Pull the lever and push the pin from the side that's sticking out. See if it resolves your problem.&#xA;If yours brake pads are already very close to the rims you will probably have to adjust the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T11:49:56.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-21T12:28:11.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that can help is called your &quot;stroke&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A novice is inclined to push straight down on the pedal ... and then, straight down on the other pedal ... so that you're pushing down, and then pushing down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more experienced rider has a more continuous &quot;cycle&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the pedal forward when it's at the top (i.e. at &quot;12 o'clock&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Push the pedal down when it's at the front (i.e. at &quot;3 o'clock&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the pedal back when it's at the bottom (i.e. at &quot;6 o'clock&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the pedal up when it's at the back (i.e. at &quot;9 o'clock&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing this is obviously easier when your shoes are clipped to the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipping your feet to the pedals is a long subject (which I won't try to detail here), but interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your feet aren't clipped you can partially emulate this full-cycle stroke, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure that, when you're pushing down with one foot, the other foot is being held fairly weightless on (not resting its whole weight on) the other pedal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if you don't have enough grip to push and pull when the pedals are vertical (at 12 and 6 oclock), you can begin to push earlier in the stroke (e.g. when the pedal is at 1 o'clock, instead of waiting until the pedal is at 2 or 3 o'clock).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T12:28:11.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T12:51:39.667" Score="1" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in an ongoing battle to try to get a squeak to go away.  Here is what I know (sorry for the length):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The sound is a very loud squeaking (chalk on the board) that, at its worst, persists throughout the entire revolution of the crank.  It seems to be coming from the crank/chainring/BB area, but I would not bet my life on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I think that it is likely from that area, because its periodicity seems to be linked to the crank speed, not the rear wheel speed (i.e. it sounds the same for all gears in the back, there is only one front chainring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) I cannot replicate this sound when the bike is in a stand, it needs to have some (not much at all) resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) I have tried pedaling with one leg at a time (hard with flat pedals) and it seems to occur for both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) When it gets really bad, nothing with shut it up while riding.  But, when it is just starting to make noise, back pedaling several revolutions will quiet it down for a minute or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) It seems to be quieter in the morning than evening.  Could just be my imagination, or temperature differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7) The sound totally goes away when I clean and lubricate the chain, only to return about 15 minutes into the next ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8) Fed up, I replaces the chain, cassette, and chainring a couple weeks ago, but the sound persisted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9) It shifts great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I have a hard time believing that it is the pedals or bottom bracket given point 7.  I thought it may be some weird compatibility with the chain and chainring, but it shouldn't be.  I currently have a Nashbar 9 speed chain and a Vuelta 42t chainring (says it is compatible with 7-10 speeds).  The old setup with the same noise was a Shimano 9 speed chain with Surly fixed gear chainring.  The rear derailleur is 4-5 years old.  I thought that there could be some issue with chain tensioning, but I can't really see that either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I've provided everything that I know about it, but let me know if anything was too vague.  Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20581" LastEditorUserId="20581" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T12:57:30.850" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T21:28:33.760" Title="Hard to diagnose squeaking" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-21T13:40:07.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike can do it, and so can you, though maybe not yet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My old commute had a 20-25% hill on it, and my bottom gear was 28x32 on 700x35 tyres.  It took a few goes before I could ride up it without stopping.  It wasn't as long as yours but the total climb was probably similar.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it easy, you don't want to be breathing hard on approach (a slightly less steep option for me was harder because traffic meant working hard before the steep bit) and aim for a little further each time you do it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the road is really quiet (mine was a dead end) be able to weave a little bit on the way up -- the total effort will be more but the rate of climb will be less for a given speed.  Such a quiet route can also mean that you can stop, catch your breath and get going again by starting across the road (like I said, mine was &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; quiet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure your front gears are shifting nicely and try to change down at the front early --  mine was from a (near-) standing start so I made sure to change into my smallest chain ring before I started, but a middling sprocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't find it helpful to stand up -- standing and pedalling at such low speeds doesn't do my balance any favours -- but others will say the opposite: find what works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no shame in walking; it might even be quicker.  I've walked up that same hill and passed cyclists riding up it, and I have to stop and catch my breath when I reach the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why you're stopping, it could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your lungs say no&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your legs say no&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You &quot;stall&quot; i.e. can't get from the downstroke on one side to the downstroke on the other side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these will improve with practice.  Not getting too hot will help as well, maybe take a layer off before the hill if you've got one to spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T13:40:07.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32053" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:21:31.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sign is also common in france; it means no entry except for bicicles.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8zLCG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8zLCG.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://foix.fubicy.org/images/Interdit_sauf_velo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fubicy.org&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20584" LastEditorUserId="19567" LastEditDate="2019-03-20T16:27:23.530" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T16:27:23.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32113" CreationDate="2015-07-21T15:29:59.750" Score="0" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I saved my training on Endomondo (android)  with &lt;code&gt;autopause&lt;/code&gt; option &lt;strong&gt;disabled&lt;/strong&gt;. I have my training stored and I can view it on the endomondo.com site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I want to &quot;simulate&quot; autopause i.e. I need to obtain the same (similar) statistics as when &lt;code&gt;autopause&lt;/code&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;enabled&lt;/strong&gt;. Is it possible?&#xA;Maybe I need to use &quot;special&quot; editing this track (maybe with other software? - what software?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20163" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T00:48:30.607" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:07:37.083" Title="Endomondo without autopause" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;&lt;software&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32089" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T15:59:52.647" Score="1" ViewCount="2661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek 7.3 with 700x32cc tyres. I've been offered a set of SKS mudguards that are 35mm wide. These are only going to be 3mm wider than my tyres and I'm worried I'll still get a lot of spray off the sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20589" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T23:57:13.387" Title="Mudguard/fender width advice" Tags="&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T16:08:16.613" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am on a road bike and when I descend quickly going downhill and lean severely into tight turns I almost feel a ringing crunchiness type feeling and it seems like one spoke is receiving more stress than the others.  It only happens when I am turning left as well... Not sure how to explain it further but wondering if anyone could diagnose what is going on from this amount of information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20588" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T20:34:39.797" Title="Stressed spoke on downhill turns" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32089" CreationDate="2015-07-21T16:54:22.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the 35mm mudguards with 28mm tires. They keep the spray away from me but are covered in dirt all over after riding in the rain. Slightly wider mudguards on my other bike look better. You also need to keep the mudguards completely straight, because the low margins make them rub at the moment they bend. For comparison, the S-blade from other answer is 52mm wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T16:54:22.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32084" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:18:19.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get over it HAS to be the chain.  That could be a coincidence or a procedural side effect.  Are you dripping oil on a loose chain ring.  Oil spills onto a derailleur.  Crank could be rubbing against the frame and the oil spills onto that.  Do you ride a certain route or a certain way after a lube. You replaced the chain it did not fix it - you also have evidence it is not the chain. You state the sound seems to come from the crank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go after anything that can squeak.  Rather than dismiss what you think it is not eliminate anything it could me. Lube and adjust everything.  What is the harm?  You just dismissed the headset - what is the harm in pulling the headset and lube and adjust. Pull the seat post and lube and torque to spec.  Same with handlebars. You don't need to replace the bottom bracket but pull it and spin the bearings.  You state this has been an ongoing battle and you are fairly competent mechanic.  Do an end to end maintenance on the bike. What is the harm?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:18:19.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32089" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:26:19.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;3mm is definitely not enough, especially with plastic fenders! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good rule of them is your fenders should be at least 10mm wider than your tires. I run 42mm tires on one bike and it has 58mm fenders. On my other bike I run 32mm tires and 45mm fenders. You also want at least 12mm between the inside of the fender and the tire. Ideally, you should have 20mm between the tire and point on the frame the fender bolts to (to account for fender thickness, protruding bolt heads and mounting hardware). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind poorly fitted fenders can be a safety issue. If an object gets kicked up into the fender it can cause a crash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some good articles on fenders: &lt;a href=&quot;https://janheine.wordpress.com/category/components/fenders/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://janheine.wordpress.com/category/components/fenders/&lt;/a&gt; (Jan probably knows more about fenders than anyone in the cycling biz!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:26:19.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25832" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:38:46.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nut is most likely suffering from galvanic corrosion in which case penetrating oil won't work because penetrating oil does nothing to break the chemical bond holding the two parts together. Instead of penetrating oil you can try a mild acid (think lemon juice or vinegar) which might help eat away at the bonds without damaging the finish on your fork. The wood block method descried by biker12 is the safest solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:38:46.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34379" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:42:01.127" Score="1" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;My right-hand Shimano SL-M760 9-speed shift lever broke, and unfortunately I can't seem to find a new one online (I'm in Germany).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit overwhelmed by the number of Shimano 9-speed shift levers available: SL-M370, SL-M390, SL-M580, SL-M590, SL-M770, SL-M970 all seem to do pretty much the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Differences in quality notwithstanding, could I use any Shimano mountain bike 9-speed shift lever to replace my SL-M760, or are only particular models compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20593" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T09:54:40.343" Title="What can I replace a Shimano SL-M760 shift lever with?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18155" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:50:41.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It actually doesn't have a big impact on speed. Keep in mind when you're riding it's not just the weight of the bike you're dealing with. It's also the weight of the rider and whatever you're carrying. When you add that up losing a few pounds is rarely more than a total weight reduction of 5%, usually more like 1-2%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think dropping a pound off a bike makes a huge difference then next time you're out riding toss a full water bottle off your bike and see if you suddenly become significantly faster. You won't. Race results bear this out. Take a look at the average speed of the 2012 Tour de France and the 1982 Tour de France. During that 30 year gap the average bike dropped more than 6 pounds (25-30%!) in weight yet average speeds have gone up by less than 1mph. Also keep in mind bikes have also become more aerodynamic, teams have become more coordinated in their tactics (thanks to radios and live TV feeds in team cars), riders now train with greater precision (no power meters back in '82) and riders come into the Tour better rested due to a shorter racing schedule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light bikes feel lighter largely due to a placebo effect. Also if a bike is faster it's hard to say if that's due to it being lighter. Only way to really measure that would be to take two absolutely identical bikes and add weight to one and then do a double blind test with data being captured on a power meter. People have done these studies and the results showed that weight isn't nearly the big deal most of us think it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, lighter bikes are more fun. They just are. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T17:50:41.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T17:50:50.490" Score="3" ViewCount="1026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went to a bike shop recently and was surprised to see big &quot;Made in China&quot; stamps on the Trek mountain bikes. I did some research and apparently all the big bike makers manufacture in China now. I seem to recall a decade ago the frames were made in America or Taiwan and the high quality Shimano running gear was made in Japan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question I have is how much do manufacturers save by building frames and other components in China vs America and/or Taiwan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20594" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T20:50:56.167" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T22:57:10.793" Title="What is the cost saving from manufacturing bikes in China vs USA or Taiwan?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-21T18:53:15.843" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(1) Go Slow and Go Easy On Yourself.&lt;/strong&gt; Climbing hills is supposed to be hard! You are carrying 250 lbs (you, bike, your stuff) 264 feet straight up over that mile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was riding once with a guy who has a PowerTap hub (a $500 toy for bike nerds and pro athletes that reports energy expenditure on your bike computer), and he said the main thing he had learned from it is how much your energy expenditure spikes when going uphill. His main takeaway from that, rather than trying to maintain anything like a constant speed when going up a grade, is to try to maintain a constant energy expenditure, which means slow up the hills, usually much slower than most riders choose without any energy expenditure information. My pet theory is that lot of riders operate on a bit of a mental analogy to cars, which typically go the same speed regardless of incline, and feel they should aspire to the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are not a car. Shift to first. Don't rush. I would disagree with the &quot;try shifting up&quot; advice -- that works in some situations, but usually only for stronger riders, so I'd save it until after you can finish the hill on your lowest gear. For a novice rider, one of your concerns should be keeping undue pressure off your knees, which means lower gears and high cadence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(2) Keep riding.&lt;/strong&gt; The best way to get better at bike riding is . . . bike riding. Doing a daily commute like you're doing is one of the best ways to get to be a stronger rider. Go easy on yourself -- if you have to walk part of the way, that's fine, walk part of the way -- but don't stop commuting by bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(3) Consider clipping in.&lt;/strong&gt; The downside is that you have to buy new pedals and shoes, and you may well fall over once or twice getting used to them (start using clipped-in pedals in a low-traffic area; get really familiar with how to get out of them before you even start riding). The upside is they keep your feet well positioned and allow power transfer on the upstroke. I've found that Time ATAC pedals are easier to get in and out of than the more ubiquitous Shimanos, for about the same price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T18:53:15.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-21T19:34:19.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that climbing is not just about legs. Your upper body plays a large part in the process. Personally, I feel like it is 50% legs, and 50% arms and core. I can't back that up with any studies, but I believe it to be true. Your upper body does a lot of work stabilizing the bike and providing the leverage your legs need to turn the pedals, especially when you are standing. So work on the legs, but add some crunches and pull-ups every day and you will definitely see an increase in your climbing ability in a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20494" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T19:34:19.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32098" CreationDate="2015-07-21T20:01:57.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think my rough estimate would be 10 to 15%, although an argument might be made for less taking into account markup.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2009/04/news/cannondales-parent-says-the-decision-to-end-frame-production-in-the-u-s-was-difficult_90148&quot;&gt;Cannondale was one of the last big manufacturers to produce all their frames in the US.&lt;/a&gt;  We carried them in a shop I worked at during the time they transitioned over.  Basically, one year all their bikes were ten to fifteen percent more expensive than their comparable counterparts (Trek, Specialized and Kona at the time in this particular shop) as it had been since I worked there.  The next year the prices were more in line with the other manufacturers and the frames had &quot;Made in China&quot; stickers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked in the last few years, but some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cnbc.com/2014/08/01/in-waterloo-wisconsin-a-passion-for-made-in-usa-bicycles.html&quot;&gt;manufacturers used to still build their highest end products&lt;/a&gt; in their home country.  Beyond the big manufacturers there are still many smaller or custom builders active and alive in the US.  If you look at the pricing differences between a litespeed, seven or lynskey and a major manufacturer, you may get an idea.  But you may also choose simply pay that higher price and get a bicycle that was for sure designed and made here in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T20:01:57.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32084" CreationDate="2015-07-21T20:23:17.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing you haven't mentioned: when does the noise occur relative to crank position? Does it make the noise through the entire revolution of the crank arm? Is the noise loudest at a certain point in the crank revolution (say 2 o'clock)? I had a customer come in one time with a sound they absolutely could not get rid of and they went through most of the steps you mentioned. Turned out is was one of the chainring bolts. A little grease on the threads and the problem was gone. It was a ridiculously easy fix for a ridiculously maddening problem!! May not fix your problem but it only takes a couple of minutes to try this solution. You should make sure that all threaded surfaces have grease or anti-seize compound on them. Bare metal threading into bare metal is no-no as it leads to annoying noises, bolts coming loose or bolts seizing/corroding. Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T20:23:17.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32090" CreationDate="2015-07-21T20:34:39.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once noticed something similar to this when climbing up a hill. The &quot;grinding&quot; sound was coming from a couple loose spokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a complete diagnosis you will need to provide more information and I can update my answer from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First step, check the tensions of your spokes. Are there any obviously loose spokes? Tighten any loose spokes you might find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second step, figure out which wheel is giving you the grinding sound. Do you have a second wheelset? If so, Replace the back wheel, go on a ride, see if the noise is present, if it is, then the problem wheel is the front, otherwise you can assume that the problem wheel is the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third step, check the spoke tension on the problem wheel again. I assume that you do not have a tensiometer. Use a credit card and pluck the spokes. They each should make a similar tone. Higher pitches means higher spoke tension. Lower pitches means lower spoke tension. If the problem wheel is the rear wheel, then the drive side tone/tension will be higher, and the non-drive side will be lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20601" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T20:34:39.797" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21230" CreationDate="2015-07-21T20:57:41.740" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trend towards compact frames goes back to the early 90s and an Englishmen named Mike Burrows. Burrows helped design several time trial frames which featured a radically lowered (but not sloping) top tube and a very long seat post. During this time most time trial bikes had top tubes that sloped from the seat DOWN to the head tube (the opposite of what we're now used to). Burrows thinking was that it allowed the rider to get into a lower position, a horizontal top tube presented less drag and that a reduced head tube would also result in less drag. Chris Boardman, one of the top time trialists at the time, rode a Burrows designed Cougar time trial bike and helped establish the look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon Burrows expanded the compact design to road bikes but raised the head tube so the rider could be in the right position for road riding (versus time trialing). This created the now common upward slope in the top tube. He also thought that the compact sloping design would allow for fewer frame sizes being needed which would greatly simplify manufacturing and inventory. Adjustments would only need to be made by swapping out stems and seat posts. Burrows got Giant to embrace the concept in 1995.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giant took over sponsorship of the Spanish ONCE team from Look in 1999 (might have been 2000?) The bikes were aluminum models and while very light they were also pretty harsh riding and the rear triangles were extremely short (the back of the seat tube was dented to allow clearance for the rear tire!) which made for poor descending. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bikes sold in shops featured adjustable stems and airfoil shaped seatposts. While the number of frames dealers had to stock went down the shops were required to stock different lengths of seatposts as the airfoil shape severely limited the range of adjustment. This was almost worse than having to stock multiple frame sizes (I worked at a Giant dealership at the time) Also the adjustable stems were too flexible and heavy for use in pro racing and fiddly on the consumer side. Finally, three sizes turned out not to be enough and so Giant had to expand to offer 6 sizes which pretty much defeated one of the main selling points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reality is it's largely a fashion statement. For every pro there is a con. A sloping tube may make for a stiffer front triangle but a sloping top tube also adds more drag. Shorter seat stays make for a stiffer rear triangle which can make a bike more responsive in sprints but also doesn't absorb shock as well. A shorter seat tube is lighter but a longer seatpost is not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T20:57:41.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T21:01:09.650" Score="1" ViewCount="2004" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where should I leave my bike on longer rides when stopping at a cafe or going into a store to get water?  Do you carry a lock in your jersey? Leave it outside?  What is a good lock?  What should I do so my bike doesn't get stolen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20604" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T22:54:55.037" Title="Where do you leave your bike on cafe stops and water breaks?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;lock&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32106" CreationDate="2015-07-21T21:30:17.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is such a range of answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lock mounted to the bike is going to be more comfortable.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decent light ulock is going to be 1.5 lbs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cable lock is going to be more like 0.5 lbs, but not as strong. &#xA;But, for a quick in and out it that may be the best trade off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight of the bike plus the weight of the lock to protect the bike is typically a wash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a group you could have one lock and a cable, or just have one person at a time stay out with the bikes.  Alternately, you could just have the cheapest bike in the group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some establishments may let you bring the bike in.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can see the door then you can remove a wheel and bring it with you. I will loop my helmet through the rear wheel. Not much but you pick 5 seconds. You can run down someone carrying a bike.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T22:54:55.037" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T22:54:55.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32110" CreationDate="2015-07-21T22:30:20.220" Score="9" ViewCount="2617" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to try riding to the airport or to public transit when I travel. Does anybody do this? Any suggestions for how to secure a bike if you're going to need to leave it for a week or so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2017-08-22T11:27:25.390" Title="Biking to the airport / leaving a bike for a week" Tags="&lt;security&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32106" CreationDate="2015-07-21T22:30:58.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the area doesn't look very &quot;lively&quot;, sometimes I just leave my rig outside a shop. My little trick though is I put my bike into some nasty gear, like either the fastest one or smallest/smallest ring combo, so the chain hangs loose. Or even I tune my front derailleur in a way allowing me to get the chain completely off the front chainring (in a way which requires stronger than normal push on the shifter). So in case of emergency I'd hopefully have a couple seconds more to chase the thief. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20224" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T22:30:58.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32108" CreationDate="2015-07-21T22:59:44.467" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't uncommon in our neck of the woods. If you're a light packer, taking your bike the the airport can be a huge money saver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your airport doesn't have a bike locker, bring two trusty u-locks with you. Use one u-lock to secure your front wheel and down-tube to one pole, and the other u-lock secure your rear wheel to another pole (please, never use a cable lock unless you're hoping to file an insurance claim for your bike when you get back into town). Try not to use your favorite bike if you have more than one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either leave fancy accessories and lights at home or take them off and take them with you when you arrive at the airport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your seat post uses a quick release, I would recommend replacing it with a bolt-on clamp. This won't guarantee your seat (or other bolted on parts) is safe from a well prepared perpetrator, but the majority thieves are looking for a quick and easy score, and will skip over your well-secured components in favor of lower hanging fruit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(photo borrowed from lifehacker)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sMxcX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;locks&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T22:59:44.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-22T00:03:58.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The good news is that climbing is a great way to get fit!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Eddy Merckx said: &quot;Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Listen to your body and get a feel for how hard you can push continuously, and what it feels like when you go above that (for example, I start feeling slightly nauseous). You can look up aerobic vs anaerobic to learn more about what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20606" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T00:03:58.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-22T01:04:45.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this problem some years ago. I commuted to work Monday to Friday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was very simple, I rode as far as I felt comfortable and then got off and pushed the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the days and weeks went by, I noticed that I was getting further and further up the hill before needing to get off. I even started to notice small landmarks to measure my progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually I got to the point where I could do the whole hill without even thinking about it. I had trouble remembering how tough it had been at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The commute was pretty much the only cycling I did at the time. I was certainly no athlete. I had a bog-standard sit-up-and-beg with Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub gears. Eventually I could do the whole hill in the middle gear no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20350" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T01:04:45.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32088" CreationDate="2015-07-22T02:56:15.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically, it's highly possible, since you can export your routes to .gpx files and manipulate the timestamps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A .gpx file is actually an xml file which is similar to html files with tags. Each tag tells you the current longitude, latitude, and the current time stamp.&#xA;You actually can edit the .gpx file with a text editor, i.e. notepad and edit the file by yourself. However, you need to know the exact long-lat where you want to &quot;pause&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T03:10:26.147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T03:10:26.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32114" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T03:42:32.777" Score="1" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new showgun mountain bike and I was loosening the tension screw and it came completely out and I'm having a problem putting it back in &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20608" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T06:01:51.707" Title="How to reinstall a tension screw of a V - brake that been fully unscrewed" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30550" CreationDate="2015-07-22T03:50:54.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is probably a combination of things that can help.  Periodically getting your weight off can help as can making sure your pedaling stroke includes ankle flexion.  In my experience, that helps a lot with circulation in my feet.  Obviously, you'll want to make sure your shoes are not laced or velcro-ed too tight.  I will often stand in the pedals and do calf stretches by flexing my ankles up and down (still clipped in) to help with foot circulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6197" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T03:50:54.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1116" CreationDate="2015-07-22T04:12:06.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many decent hardware stores (at least in the US) will also carry them. Look in the fastener section of the store, where I usually find them is in the collection of small boxes that holds all of the oddball hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T04:12:06.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1091" CreationDate="2015-07-22T04:34:41.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you think about the time involved it is worth thinking about the &quot;total cost&quot; – all of the costs (in time) that go into your commute. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you were driving or taking public transit how long would it take you to earn the cost of the commute (don't forget taxes)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you include time for exercise in your day? The commute time could do double duty here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there tolls or parking if you were to drive?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find that the time difference to ride the bike isn't really as long as you'd think. As an example, my mechanic is about a 20 mile ride from my house. There's a bridge with a $5 toll in the way, so driving there and back is about $15, and it takes about an hour round trip (including some talking to the mechanic). I can do the ride in about 90 minutes, maybe a bit more if I'm hot and tired. So this ends up looking like a wash to me – I'd have to work at least half an hour to pay the out of pocket costs of the trip, it would take me around half an hour to get back, and I got in a good bit of exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T04:34:41.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32114" CreationDate="2015-07-22T05:07:02.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah loosen the brakes ,hold them with your hands such that the brakes just does not touch the rim of the wheel then tighten it .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find it a bit loose the adjust the secondary screw for more accuracy .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20611" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T05:07:02.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30550" CreationDate="2015-07-22T05:07:52.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had similar issues with numb feeling in my toes. Have tried my cleats in every possible position but it did not help. My local bicycle shop owner suggested some arch supports, he thought it had to do do with me having quite an high arch that pressing it down that much interrupted the blood flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have arch supports I have not had any numb toes while cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20610" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T05:07:52.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32124" CreationDate="2015-07-22T06:10:43.360" Score="14" ViewCount="5636" Body="&lt;p&gt;For half a year now I commute to work by bike everyday. It's 30 km each day, about 18.5 miles. I have a good bike, it's comfortable as well as it has good components so I'm having fun riding it. However I found myself wondering about long term effects of riding a bike so often (in average I cover 150 km a week on it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering positive effects I realized my fitness improved a lot, which is quite obvious why. I also feel better about having this regular workout besides my job in an office. So there are both mental and physical benefits. So now I'm just curious: &lt;strong&gt;What physical and mental benefits have you noticed from bicycling/commuting by bike often?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wonder about risks I could come to face though. &lt;strong&gt;Are there long term risks for my health?&lt;/strong&gt; What other issues might become important after more months/years of bicycling? And of course what can I do to prevent them from getting bad or happening at all? I'd like to avoid typical mishaps and learn from you guys' experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20612" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T11:25:26.467" Title="Long term benefits and risks of bicycling" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32108" CreationDate="2015-07-22T06:31:29.387" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I left my bike at the airport for a week and would do it again. It seemed to be the safest place in the whole city, safer than my home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on where the bike racks are; here in Edinburgh they are right next to the entrance to the departure check-in hall. It's inside the vehicle perimeter, and a security guard stood with a submachine gun next to it. There are probably also numerous security cameras watching the whole entrance area (and unlike most urban cctv, they are properly monitored!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only use a cheap lock that can be picked or cut with small tools, then your bike is at risk wherever you leave it. But any decent D-lock requires a power tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now imagine the thief who drives his pickup truck through the security crash barriers and then takes out his noisy angle grinder right next to a submachinegun-armed security guard at the airport. I think he would be done for more than attempted bike theft :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An airport, even without any special bike security arrangement, has all the features of a very secure place. Lots of people at all time, regular security guard patrols, cameras, access control, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I really wouldn't worry too much, as long as you have a solid D-lock that needs bigger tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But leave your bike only at a designated bicycle parking area, don't lock it to any other railing or lamp-post like you would do in any other place. Then it might be you who will be in trouble with airport security....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastEditorUserId="18723" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T08:17:44.357" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:17:44.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32120" CreationDate="2015-07-22T06:46:36.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well as far as I can say pros outrun the cons .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only cons that I can think about are that of slightly damaging your knee caps and other soft tissue in the legs .&#xA;But I think they will get generated back rapidly &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20611" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T06:46:36.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32088" CreationDate="2015-07-22T07:51:28.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd probably write something in python to work directly on the gpx file. There are decent libraries for working with xml. An easier approach if you don't code (much) is to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gpsbabel.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gpsbabel&lt;/a&gt; to convert to a csv file then your favourite spreadsheet. Then possibly gpsbabel again to get back to gpx depending on your analysis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The edit probably won't have to change the data point timestamp but may have to do something about elapsed time. I think that's a separate field,  from memory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at gis.stackexchange for gpx hacking advice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T08:07:37.083" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T08:07:37.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32120" CreationDate="2015-07-22T09:15:35.530" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long term benefits ... Hmmm ... does 55 years count as long term? If so, I think I and a few others here qualify ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key benefits&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cycling is a life-long form of exercise. One of the group I meet for coffee is 82, another is 80. A bunch are in their sixties and seventies, and another bunch are in their fifties. About a quarter are women. Another bunch I ride with has people from late teens through to sixties. Half are women.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cycling can be done in a thousand ways. I've seen young professional Italian women cycling to work in high heels, Italian grandma's cycling to meet for coffee, and their menfolk kitted out in lycra for their daily &quot;roll&quot;. You can race, tour, commute, shop, goof off, cycle around the world. It can be your only form of transport. You get places faster than walking or running, and see almost as much.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cycling is low impact (unless you crash). If you choose to cycle with intensity, it is has far lower impact on your joints than activities such as running, jogging, the latest Gym fad, and even swimming (which can be damaging to elbows and shoulders).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cardiovascular, aerobic capacity, strength, metabolic level. Most of the health issues of today's world are due to too little of these. You are going to be healthier, and healthier for longer, with a cycling life style.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Endorphins (feel good hormones) are released by cycling. You cannot stay grumpy or depressed with a cycling life style.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Office productivity. If you're a sedentary office worker, the higher metabolic rate and higher blood flow will give you more energy at work and higher productivity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weight and cholesterol control. The higher metabolic rate produced by regular physical activity enables your body to burn it's way through lots of fats and foods.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Social. Meet a significant other. Whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bedroom performance. For either sex, bedroom performance is better when you're fitter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Being quicker than cars through inner city traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Being able to bypass traffic jams.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Idealists may think they'll save money.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key risks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crashing, or being crashed. On a bike you are more vulnerable. The solution is to simply take 100% responsibility. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31494/best-ways-to-avoid-getting-hit-by-cars/31496#31496&quot;&gt;Best ways to avoid getting hit by cars?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There have been medical reports of lower sperm counts among (male) cyclists. This one has always been exaggerated. Your better general health is a far better indicator of reproductive success.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Owning &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;too many bikes&lt;/a&gt;, each of which costs more than your car.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Er ... hard to find too many more. Too much vitamin A? Being annoyingly happy with life? Annoying your friends by knowing what a kilometer is?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T09:15:35.530" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32120" CreationDate="2015-07-22T09:55:02.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from a better health, a faster commute, a happier life, a better environment, and other factors, there aren't a lot of benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for risks: it is easier and more attractive to steal a high-end 3000€ bicycle than to steal a crappy 3000€ car.  If you cannot park it safely at home and at work, cycling on a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; bicycle will leave you worrying about theft.  Cycling on a crappy bicycle won't, but for a long distance commute a crappy bicycle will leave you slower and perhaps less happy than a good bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, you don't need a €3000 bicycle for commuting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T15:38:39.233" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T15:38:39.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T10:18:22.180" Score="6" ViewCount="1467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering an anti-theft GPS tracker for my bicycle, but I am worried about battery life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any that recharge from a hub dynamo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T00:15:25.867" Title="Are any anti-theft GPS trackers dynamo powered?" Tags="&lt;gps&gt;&lt;theft&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32120" CreationDate="2015-07-22T10:28:57.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides all the obvious health benefits of light physical activity, a bicycle gives - especially for elderly people - freedom and independence, with many benefits for social and mental health. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people don't drive or don't have access to a car, public transport is too limited, and walking to shops or social activities is just too far. With a bicycle they depend less on relatives or social services for getting a lift to shops, clubs, cinema and whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bicycle is a suitable means of transport even for people with health problems, if you take it slowly and possibly with an adapted bike, and I know elderly people who don't like to drive and others who can't walk long distances, but they cycle everywhere. They would be stuck at home without a bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastEditorUserId="18723" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T11:04:21.877" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T11:04:21.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32126" CreationDate="2015-07-22T11:04:55.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the ones that I've seen are all battery powered – there is one, &lt;a href=&quot;http://interestingengineering.com/shyspy-tracking-device/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shy Spy&lt;/a&gt;, that appears to have an inductive charger. The problem that I imagine with a dynamo powered tracker is that the power cable could lead the thief to the location of the tracker on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to have the tracker generate its own power. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://connectedcycle.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Connected Cycle Pedals&lt;/a&gt; do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T11:04:55.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32126" CreationDate="2015-07-22T11:10:18.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use this product:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Spybike-Bike-GPS-Tracker-to-spy-and-pretect-your-bike-with-ease-New-bike-tail-light/32251529357.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Spybike-Bike-GPS-Tracker-to-spy-and-pretect-your-bike-with-ease-New-bike-tail-light/32251529357.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is a tail light, it is less suspicious as a GPS tracker. You can simply charge and remove the USB cable as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(One thing to notice since this product is not inexpensive, I epoxied the screw just to be on the safe side :D )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone without a USB 5V DC port from your dynamo hub:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BICYCLE-DYNAMO-USB-REGULATOR-PDA-PHONE-USB-CHARGER-M172-/370935357198?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&amp;amp;hash=item565d785f0e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BICYCLE-DYNAMO-USB-REGULATOR-PDA-PHONE-USB-CHARGER-M172-/370935357198?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&amp;amp;hash=item565d785f0e&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/cycling/cycling-technology/cycle-computers-gps/tigra-sport-bike-charge-power-conterter?cm_mmc=Google%20PLA-_-Cycling%20Technology-_-Cycle%20Computers%20and%20GPS-_-698674&amp;amp;_$ja=tsid:60494%7Ccgn:GoogleShopping%7Ckw:698674&amp;amp;istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&amp;amp;istItemId=xmqpapiir&amp;amp;istBid=tzxm&amp;amp;_$$ja=cgid:16790764204%7Ctsid:35522%7Ccid:214996084%7Clid:50613723535%7Cnw:g%7Ccrid:73916133724%7Crnd:865581983920909088%7Cdvc:c%7Cadp:1o1%7Cbku:1&amp;amp;__ja=cgid:16790764204%7Ctsid:35522%7Ccid:214996084%7Clid:50613723535%7Cnw:g%7Ccrid:73916133724%7Crnd:865581983920909088%7Cdvc:c%7Cadp:1o1%7Ckw:&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw_rytBRDVhZeQrbzn_q0BEiQAjnbSHJ_8rFMnaVxoJUac4SPJAWcO-_7lDug16mJxanbuXQAaApP-8P8HAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tigra Sport Bike Charge Power Conterter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or.. just search google for &amp;quot;Hub dynamo USB&amp;quot; if you are not from the UK :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and for anyone who loves DIY to make your own AC-DC regulator:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://parttimetinkerer.wordpress.com/2011/11/12/charging-usb-devices-from-a-hub-dynamo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://parttimetinkerer.wordpress.com/2011/11/12/charging-usb-devices-from-a-hub-dynamo/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T00:15:25.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32132" CreationDate="2015-07-22T14:30:05.803" Score="54" ViewCount="14865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question regarding commuting to work on a bike. I recently moved to a new location because of a new job. The drive to work is roughly 15-20 minutes depending on the traffic (no freeway or highways). About a month ago I got a new bike the Giant Revolt 3. The location is a bit away from the city so I've noticed a lot more people ride bikes here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, &lt;strong&gt;how do you commute to work on a bike?&lt;/strong&gt; My bike ride to work is about 7 miles, half of it is probably on the side of the road, and the other half is on a bike trail that takes me all the way to the office. Like most people, I have to wear a dress shirt and pants with business casual shoes. Don't people get sweaty? Wouldn't your clothes get wrinkled if you put them in a backpack to change later? There is a guy that always take bike rides for lunch and when he comes back he's drenched in sweat. How do you avoid these problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I want to start commuting is because About 5-6 years ago I lost a bit of weight and I've been having chest pain problems which went away after I lost the weight (and I'm only 23), now they're coming back because I'm sitting in front of a computer most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(feel free to change/add tags if necessary, thanks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20487" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T02:33:06.360" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T20:33:29.340" Title="How to commute to work on your bike and dress up" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-22T14:39:41.640" Score="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently started commuting to work 3 times a week and my commute is about 8 miles each way. I've found if I roll my clothes rather than fold them and pack just before I leave, there are no creases when I get to work. I always put my shoes at the bottom of my bag, then trousers rolled up then shirt. I leave my ties in my desk draw and leave my suit jacket at work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes me about 45 minutes to get to work and I make sure I take the last mile easy so I don't arrive out of breath. I then spend about 10 minutes in my cycling clothes (making sure the kettle is boiled and quickly checking emails) to give me time to &quot;cool down&quot; before I go and get changed in to my work clothes. I've found I'm completely &quot;dry&quot; by then but if not I use wet wipes. Liberal use of deodorant and I'm good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the way home I just do the reverse. I attack the route home faster for a work out as I can have a shower when I get home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that as you get fitter you'll sweat less too, so it gets easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20577" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T14:39:41.640" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T15:42:45.607" Score="1" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help identify if this generation of Campagnolo Chorus 10 speed alloy-only is ultrashift, escape, powershift, etc? I've done a bit of googling, but without much more knowledge on the parts, I can't be sure! I'm asking because I need to order new cabling for the group and want to make sure I get the right cables :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They look exactly like these:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PsPtM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PsPtM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20580" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T19:03:17.160" Title="Campagnolo Ultrashift, Escape, Powershift Identification" Tags="&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-22T15:43:11.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been commuting for a long time, throughout the year (30km/day), I have a few short tips, that might help you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get mudguards/fenders, unless you live in a very dry/sunny place&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always have lights with you and a &lt;strong&gt;HELMET&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sunglasses, even clear ones help keep your eyes safe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put your folded up clothes in separate plastic bags (they will not crease, if done properly: fold each item, place in a plastic bag, roll up the bag and place at the top of your bag above all the other items)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dress in layers (so that you can remove some if you get very warm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a small pump, inner tube, tire levers and &lt;a href=&quot;https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS1jT8JofGFlXJ-5_K0r8vuW0iGwf3o9uqHh0eAtW27uBfwf7pTXWRvKw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;multi tool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always stay on top of your bicycle maintenance &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, there is much more that 10000km+ of commuting a year has tough me about cycling, but if you have any other questions, just ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17332" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T03:26:47.187" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T03:26:47.187" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-22T16:21:40.967" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;People who are sweating when cycling but not when walking are either cycling in hot weather (worse when steeply uphill with not enough gears), or treating a bicycle as a piece of sports equipment rather than a mode of transportation.  When on foot, you walk rather than run.  You don't need special clothes for walking or cycling.  You do for running or racing.  If you depart on time, you don't need to race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get from the sport cycling mindset to the utility mindset,&#xA;get a traditional bicycle where you sit upright.  Mountain-bikes and racing bicycles have purpose; they are sports equipment.  Utility bicycles are simply a way to get around.  They're a lot more comfortable too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p5xn7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p5xn7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fietspad&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/fietsberaad/4268573270&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fietsberaad&lt;/a&gt;, (CC BY-ND 2.0))&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The additional benefit is that you are more visible — extra bonus when sharing the road with other kinds of vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T17:09:15.013" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T17:09:15.013" CommentCount="28" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-22T16:26:49.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adjust your speed to your needs.&#xA;I never get to work in sweat as I keep my speed to such a level that I do not get too hot.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wearing the right amount of layers helps as well, as does the ambient temperature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike other users here, I do NOT believe in helmets and I never use one.&#xA;But if you feel the need for one, it does depend on local laws as well as on (preserved) need for the traffic, think about getting your whole head wet on arrival. (Yes, it can be done under a tap.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are loads of posts online about taking clothing to work, the most important thing is that you find a way that works for you. So test out different bags, buy or borrow one to clip on your bike if you do not own one yet as a backpacks are sweat collectors. Handlebar, seat post or best bags to clip onto a rear rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T16:26:49.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-22T16:34:50.940" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've a theory that body odour doesn't come from sweat but from bacteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Body-odour/Pages/Introduction.aspx&quot;&gt;http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Body-odour/Pages/Introduction.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The sweat itself doesn't smell. The unpleasant odour is produced by bacteria on the skin that break down the sweat into acids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bacteria take a bit of time to grow/multiply.&#xA;So maybe it doesn't matter much how much you sweat, and what matters more is how long it's been since your last shower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my strategy is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shower thoroughly with soap immediately before going to work, put on clean clothes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sweat as much as necessary on the way to work&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On arriving:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change from shorts to long trousers, e.g. in the washroom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the sweat to dry naturally (which takes about 15 minutes or so)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For carrying clothes (or anything else) I &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; use a backpack (a backpack isn't good for cycling, and is very bad for causing sweat) but rather use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pannier&quot;&gt;pannier&lt;/a&gt; attached to the side of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summer even pedestrians will sweat somewhat when they're outside. It seems to be a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T16:34:50.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-22T16:54:39.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commuted to work for years. It was about 5 miles, half of which was on a dedicated bike trail. It took me roughly 20 minutes. There was always a bit of a chill in the morning, so I never really got all that sweaty. It also helped that I had a very high fitness level at the time, so my body wasn't working as hard as it looked. I would just change into my clothes without showering, and never had any issues. My wife worked in the same office, and she would have told me if there were any issues!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about your clothes getting wrinkled, one option is to drive in to work with an extra set of clothes and your bike in the car. Leave the clothes and the car there over night and ride home. Ride in the next morning and you have clothes waiting for you. Drive the car home with your bike. Repeat. That works well for some people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20494" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T16:54:39.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32133" CreationDate="2015-07-22T16:54:49.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're second generation Ergopowers. I don't know the name for the mechanism, or even if there is one, but it seems similar to current UltraShift. For original spare part codes, look up Chorus 10S in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_250_Catalogue_spare%20parts_tools_Campagnolo_2015_part_A.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;spare parts catalog&quot;&gt;spare parts catalog&lt;/a&gt;. Looks like UltraShift cables have the same dimensions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been using third party Campagnolo-compatible wires and Shimano outer cables with success, the original ones didn't seem to like low temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T16:54:49.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32141" CreationDate="2015-07-22T17:09:04.950" Score="18" ViewCount="19707" Body="&lt;p&gt;For all my life I have noticed that I always cycle in the highest gear (most of my bikes had at least 3x7, so it wasn't a lack of options) whilst most serious cyclists cycle on relatively low gears and are spinning like crazy from my perspective. Now, I get that taste definitely plays a role in these kind of things, but what I would love to know is whether serious cyclists learn to cycle in lower gear consciously or whether &quot;it's just me&quot; that loves cycling in a style where I move my legs as little as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this question is fairly broad and I hope the answer is fairly clear cut, but just to be fair it could theoretically be split up in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there something bad about a cycling style in relatively higher gears?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What causes such a cycling style in the first place?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I will keep it as a single question as those things are I believe extremely closely related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11541" LastEditorUserId="385" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T22:03:06.407" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T22:03:06.407" Title="Always cycling in highest gear, why?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cadence&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32140" CreationDate="2015-07-22T17:50:38.410" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Left to their own devices many will cycle at a cadence (a measure of how fast you spin) that approximates cadence of walking, an RPM of about 50-60.  So the fact you prefer a slower leg speed is not unusual. Trained cyclists will often have a cadence between 80-110 and up to 200 for sprints (track).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there something bad about a cycling style in relatively higher&#xA;  gears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, many believe that pedaling at too high of a gear and too low of a cadence can cause more muscular and ligament stress.  Whether or not this bears out in terms of experimental evidence I am not sure (&lt;strong&gt;does anyone know of some experimental evidence?&lt;/strong&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A confounding factor on this is an individuals neuromuscular responses (i.e., how well they fire their muscles for the activity of pedaling in circles).  People that are not &quot;good&quot; at pedaling will often pedal more slowly and their inefficient pedaling patterns may also be responsible for higher muscular and ligament stress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What causes such a cycling style in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, a faster cadence has been born from performance considerations. Cycling is not a natural activity.  It is an activity we invented that co-ops a lot of our mechanical and neurological pathways used for walking (e.g., corrective steering, steering into a fall, is very similar to walking when you step in the direction you are falling).  As such we need to train our &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.medicinenet.com/script/main/art.asp?articlekey=34038&quot;&gt;neuromuscular&lt;/a&gt; responses to be more tailored to an activity like cycling.  Everyone who spins fast specifically trained to do so.  Most who train and cycle lots prefer to spin faster.  That said, there are some trained athletes who pedal relatively slower (although likely still faster than a non-cyclist). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of an &quot;optimal&quot; cadence there is still a lot of debate (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/17461390802684325&quot;&gt;Ansley and Cangley 2009&lt;/a&gt;) as it depends on what you are optimizing for (energetic costs, muscular stress, perception of effort, peak power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most will optimize based on perception of effort.  If you have not trained your neuromuscular pathways for the cycling motion it will be less developed and a slower cadence will likely feel more optimal.  As you ride more and your neuromuscular pathways become more efficient (i.e., you are better at recruiting muscles for the pedaling action) and a faster cadence will likely feel more &quot;efficient.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this is a somewhat anecdotal assertion. I haven't personally run experiments tracking peoples progression from non-cyclists to cyclists. I have however accumulated years of observations from running cycling clubs. And as always there is lots of individual variation and the possibility of exceptions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end it is best to pay attention to your body and choose a pedaling speed that bio-mechanically work the best for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T18:06:54.367" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T18:06:54.367" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T17:52:17.277" Score="3" ViewCount="2367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given a bicycle for my birthday (yai!), it has 24&quot; wheels and it is awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is single speed and sometimes it is hard to ride up-hill in my daily commute. &#xA;Could I change the rear gear for a gears cassette? &#xA;If so. Do I need to change the rear wheel as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Am I using the correct terms? I'm new using english to talk about bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20621" LastEditorUserId="20621" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T19:21:48.167" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T23:11:38.563" Title="Can I install a gears cassette on a regular bike?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32140" CreationDate="2015-07-22T18:07:16.343" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power you transfer to the bike is proportional to the force on the pedals multiplied by the cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some upper limit to how much force you can apply, but you can spin more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes if I'm overtaken by another bike (travelling faster than I am) I've found that I can keep up with that bike, if I change &lt;em&gt;down&lt;/em&gt; into a &lt;em&gt;lower&lt;/em&gt; gear and then spin more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's easier to spin quickly if your shoes are clipped to the pedals. See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=stroke&quot;&gt;stroke&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T18:07:16.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T18:20:21.593" Score="-1" ViewCount="6087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Specialized Allez road bike which is 8 speed. I've just bought new wheels and want to put a 10-speed cassette on, like the previous owner. What will I have to do to the bike so that the gears work properly? Or will it be ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20626" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T20:44:24.417" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T16:05:41.597" Title="Fitting new wheel with 10 speed to a bike fitted with 8 speed" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-07-28T23:26:30.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32144" CreationDate="2015-07-22T18:33:32.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;YOU SHOULD HAVE CHECKED BEFORE BUYING THE WHEELS!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10-speed Dura-Ace is not compatible with other cassettes. You can install a 8 speed cassette on other Shimano 10-speed compatible hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Reading the question again, of course you can keep the 10 speed cassette. Just replace the shifters, rear derailleur and chain with 10-speed ones and be prepared to replace front derailleur and crank if there are any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="10595" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T20:09:25.730" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T20:09:25.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32144" CreationDate="2015-07-22T18:41:35.450" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will probably need to get a ten speed derraileur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you might be able to get by with friction shifters if you've already got a thinner chain. This isn't the brightest idea because it's basically the same thing as driving a manual and requires some cursory knowledge of how the shifting mechanism works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20629" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T20:44:44.450" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T20:44:44.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32865" CreationDate="2015-07-22T20:05:28.203" Score="2" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;The axle on my bike that supports the pedals appears to have loosened, so that there is precession in it - I can slightly jiggle the pedals back and forth in a perpendicular direction to the axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.huffybikes.com/mens-mountain-bikes/phalanx-mens-mountain-bike/p-944&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cheap bike&lt;/a&gt;, I am not particularly surprised. Is it possible to correct this, for instance by buying a new set of pedals and replacing them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20632" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T00:50:18.050" Title="How to fix precession in pedal axle?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32147" CreationDate="2015-07-22T20:32:55.813" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about the pedal and pedal spindle(metal piece that threads into the crank arm from the pedal), then yes you are most likely are just going to need to replace the pedals which should be fairly straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8771" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T20:32:55.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T20:35:40.273" Score="7" ViewCount="1701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a new Trek 720 Touring bike with about 1000 miles and have broken two spokes on the rear tire in the past two weeks and haven't yet added the weight of panniers.  This is a 24 spoke wheel and I'm told Trek doesn't have a 32 spoke wheel for this application.  I'm concerned for when I begin my cross-country touring in another month and adding another 30-35 # over that wheel.  This Trek model is new this year...anyone else out there have similar problems? I've traveled 1000s of miles without broken spokes until now.  Any diagnosis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE - Trek has issued a recall for this particular wheelset&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://trek.scene7.com/is/content/TrekBicycleProducts/Asset%20Library/editorial-assets/safet-and-recalls/TK17_720Disc_Recall_Consumer_Notice_USEN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trek Recall Notice for Bontrager Approved TLR Disc 700C 24H Front and Rear Wheels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20633" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2017-01-20T16:03:43.643" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T10:24:40.077" Title="Any experience with spokes breaking on new Trek 720 touring bike" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32144" CreationDate="2015-07-22T20:43:44.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very generally speaking, the number of cogs on the cassette needs to match the number of clicks in the shifter. If your shifter clicks through 9 gears then you need a 9 speed cassette. If it has 8 clicks as yours does then you need an 8 speed cassette. If you want to switch to 10 speeds then at a bare minimum you'd need new 10 speed shifters and quite likely a rear derailleur. The shifters and derailleurs should be from the same brand. You would also need a 10 speed chain though the brand on this doesn't really matter. This starts to get pretty expensive, pretty fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T20:43:44.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T20:45:51.490" Score="2" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son is now 6 years old and has outgrown his small bike. There is a bike available from his elder sister but it is pink colour. This pink bike might work for him for a year or two before he outgrows it, but he might want an other colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if there is a simple way for me to paint it over with a red or black colour without removing the existing paint ? I would like to keep it on the cheap side, around 10 or 20$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20634" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T22:22:22.767" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T22:22:22.767" Title="Repaint over a pink bike" Tags="&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-07-23T18:58:33.930" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T21:54:30.897" Score="2" ViewCount="3738" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Jockey and idler of my derailer, are not spinning as freely as I would like. What type of lubricant should I put on these derailer pulleys to make them spin more freely? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20540" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T14:26:01.577" Title="what lubricant should I use?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T22:02:28.127" Score="3" ViewCount="1051" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cycle year round, in Maine. It is pretty much guaranteed my brakes and shifter cables will need replacement in the spring, even if I try to maintain and clean the bike after each ride.  Does anyone have any tips or tricks for protecting cables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The road salt, or whatever it is, seems to kill the cables, and yeah, I totally remember a time when cables would last a couple seasons, before the advent of what ever is going on the roads now.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20540" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T22:59:47.793" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T02:13:32.577" Title="How can I protect cables in inclement weather?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32144" CreationDate="2015-07-22T22:04:19.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm thinking that this is a bike that was originally setup with an 8-speed drive train. At some point the previous owner replaced the rear wheel with one built around a 10-speed hub. If I'm reading Sheldon Brown's page on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hub and cluster compatibility&lt;/a&gt; correctly you should be able to mount an 8-speed cassette on a 10-speed free hub body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems like all that is required is to put the pieces together, perhaps with a spacer behind the cassette. Or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T22:04:19.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32164" CreationDate="2015-07-22T22:04:33.523" Score="2" ViewCount="17121" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cable for the front brake on a rim brake has come loose, and I can't get it to squeeze into the barrel adjuster screw properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2bcqI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2bcqI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20642" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T21:38:31.723" Title="Front brake cable loose from barrel adjuster" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22978" CreationDate="2015-07-22T22:28:27.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might also ask why racers are using the 11 cog at all, it is a device causing a lot of friction, typically 6-8 percent, and even over 10 percent at low loads and high cadence. Those are figures similar to a bad hub gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to avoid the 12 cog as well, ending up with a 61 cog on my 700c with 13 cog as smallest. A positive side effect is that gear ratios are closer. It is on paper marginally slower than a 53/11, but noticably easier to crank around on top gear at speeds over 50 kmh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20644" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T22:28:27.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-22T22:33:06.423" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're riding to work (well done btw) you have three concerns in the office:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You don't smell&#xA;2) You look professional (appropriate for your job)&#xA;3) Your clothes arrive in work in the same state as when they left the wardrobe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to commute daily for about 8 miles and here's what I did. Roll your clothes, in a few a4 zip lock bags or draw string type carrier bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get three small towels. Bath towels tho not the thin ones. On day 1, use the first towel, get it soaking wet and have a good wipe down, use soap if required. Wring this out and get yourself clean. Use the second towel to dry yourself. Leave the second and third towel at work. Day 2, get a new towel in your bag, go to work, use the second and third to wash and dry yourself, use the clean towel in your bag to replace the missing one and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only ever need to carry one towel after you start and you get properly clean. I left clothes at work too for a Monday so I brought items home as required, e.g., my jacket and jumper could stop but the rest I'd bring home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride hard and fast, don't slow down, sweat and get dirty! Its part of the fun ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20645" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T04:44:29.667" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T04:44:29.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32154" CreationDate="2015-07-22T22:49:08.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since brake cables don't rust, I think the problem is that the cable housing gets dirty with mud or any other substances. The grit inside your housing will increase the friction so the brakes become hard to pull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A way to solve this is to prevent dirt gets inside your housing by investing in good fenders. Moreover, they will help to make the bike cleaner after a ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I used to lubricate the brake cables, but I found this is unnecessary (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html#lubrication&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html#lubrication&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T02:13:32.577" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T02:13:32.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32154" CreationDate="2015-07-23T00:55:12.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrenched for a cyclocross team and those bikes see pretty torrential conditions. How are you cleaning the cables? If you're just cleaning them as they are on the bike it probably won't do much good. You need to take the housing out of its stops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to do this:&#xA;Rear derailleur: Shift your bike into the largest/inner rear cog. Now WITHOUT turning the crank click the shifter as if you were shifting into the smallest/outer rear cog. This will create slack in the cable and you'll be able to easily pop the housing out of its stops. &#xA;Front derailleur: Shift into the big ring. Now WITHOUT turning the crank click the shifter as if shifting into the inner/smaller ring. Again, you create slack and be able to pop the housing from its stops. &#xA;Brakes: You need to release the brakes. On a side pull there is usually a quick release lever on the caliper itself. On cantilevers you need to unhook one end of the straddle cable. Again, this puts slack in the lines and you can pop the housing out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have the housing free of its stops you can slide it to one end of the cable and wipe down the cable then slide it back to the other end and wipe the remaining cable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It only takes a minute or two to do this. Do it after every wet/muddy ride and cables should last all season. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more extreme and effective solution is to run full length cable housing. Basically if you have non stop housing from brake/shift lever all the way to the derailleur/brake there won't be as many points for grit to enter. This is how all bikes used to be but in the 80s everyone went to split stops because it was cheaper for manufacturers and also because more housing means more housing compression and that means spongier brakes and less precise shifting. Modern housing is much better than the stuff from 30 years ago so that need is no longer as great. Thanks to the rise of hydraulic brakes there are now little adapters designed to plug into the split cable stops to hold hydraulic lines in place. These same adapters can be used to hold full length housing in place and I've seen guys use them for the rear brake and derailleur cables on cross bikes. Here's an example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/housing_guides&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/housing_guides&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T00:55:12.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22978" CreationDate="2015-07-23T01:03:08.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very simple answer is that top ranked pros are simply that much stronger than the rest of us. They can push a 54t ring 80+ rpm over a flat course for an hour or more. Most people struggle pushing a 50x12 big ring on flat ground for anything more than a few minutes (I gave up when I stopped racing and now use a 48t big ring!) You can look at wattage data all day long and watch every stage of the Tour but until you actually go out and ride with some of these pros it's simply impossible to comprehend just how much faster they are than the rest of us! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T01:03:08.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32140" CreationDate="2015-07-23T01:14:23.597" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This subject is about the performance on a bicycle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling is aerobic exercise in nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Fast twitch vs. Slow twitch muscle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In high gear (low cadence and higher force per pedal stroke for the same output, in comparison to higher cadence) you recruit more of your fast-twitch muscle, and thus you are doing more anaerobic (not aerobic) exercise. It's OK if you're going to commute half an hour or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you were to cycling 2 hours upward with some hills, in high gear, I bet all my savings that the next day your body will be in pain because of the built-up lactic acid from anaerobic activity (if you ever finish :D)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Blood supply to muscle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As most of your soleus muscle (calf) is slow-twitch type, rich oxygenated blood supply is a must when you exercise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the oxygen supply is insufficient, your muscles will begin converting glucose into lactic acid instead of energy, anaerobic exercise takes over, power output drops and fatigue sets in. Unfortunately, anaerobic exercise can only continue for so long before your muscles run out of energy completely and become fatigued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another important reason for pedalling in high-cadence and help the blood supply circulate much more efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) The last point I wish to make about high cadence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can always have a high enough cadence, beyond which, the increase in your output power is minimal in comparison to the increase in your muscle expenditure in energy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or in another word, it becomes inefficient, just as how an old-fashion electric motor works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T19:33:27.077" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T19:33:27.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32156" CreationDate="2015-07-23T03:03:43.610" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd guess that what happened is the other end of the cable slipped (at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_an-z.html#anchor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;anchor bolt&lt;/a&gt; on the brake). It probably wasn't tight enough and when the brakes were applied the cable pulled through the anchor bolt. Now the cable seems too loose at the barrel adjuster, but really it is too loose at the brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you probably need to do is to loosen up the anchor bolt so that you can pull the cable back through and then tighten it down again. When you do this inspect the cable to make sure that it isn't starting to fray. If the brakes had been solid and this is a sudden change the cable fraying is one of the more likely reasons that I can think of for the cable suddenly becoming loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T11:54:41.807" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T11:54:41.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32166" CreationDate="2015-07-23T08:06:41.953" Score="0" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brakes are not powerful anymore, it takes a few meters when fully pulling my brakes for my bike to come to a stop. Which means that the brakes'pads are touching the wheels but not enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is: how do I know if I need to change the brake pads or give more tension to the cable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20653" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T12:12:52.967" Title="How do I know what is wrong with my brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32165" CreationDate="2015-07-23T09:07:37.200" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How thick are the pads? Are these rim brakes or disk brakes? For rim brakes, the block (rubber) will get worn away over time so you should adjust the cable occasionally, but well before the block is so thin that the shoe (the metal backing) starts to scrape on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For disk brakes it's essentially the same but the pad is thinner and made of harder material. The manufacturers usually give a number how thin the pad can become, something like 0.7 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T09:07:37.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-23T09:47:28.397" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much you sweat depends a lot on climate (temperature, wind), route (flat, number of stops) and your body. 7 miles is a fair distance when you haven't done it before (but quite feasible), so perhaps it's a good idea to try the route a few times on the weekend when you're not under pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your colleague who's drenched in sweat is probably doing it for exercise and pushing himself really hard, so I wouldn't worry about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some general experiences on sweating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You often start to sweat more &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; your ride. While you're cycling, the wind keeps you cool and sweating is more efficient, but when you stop, your body still needs to get rid off excess heat, and without the &quot;air cooling&quot; you break into sweat in the first few minutes after you arrived. You can reduce this effect by taking the last bit of your commute slowly to cool down. I find it particularly problematic when I'm cycling against a strong cold wind (Edinburgh!), i.e. hard work but very strong cooling, then I just start to boil when I arrive and go into the warm office.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try out different routes. A lot of the effort and the sweating is not so much the length of the route in total, but any uphills parts. I use different routes to work and back from work, because I don't mind going downhills on a steep hill, but chose a longer, less steep route for uphills. Longer routes may actually be much more comfortable. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similarly try to avoid traffic lights or junctions, because having to stop and accelerate again takes a lot of effort too, particularly on roads where the flow of the traffic may force you to accelerate harder than you really want. It's often easier and quicker to go at a slow constant speed than at higher speed but with a lot of braking and accelerating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good that your last half of the commute is on a separate trail, I think that will help a lot because you can just go at your own pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T13:54:40.057" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T13:54:40.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32165" CreationDate="2015-07-23T11:41:11.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With fully pulling you mean the lever touches the handlebars? Simply tensioning the cable and checking the pads should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also make sure the cable is properly clamped on the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T11:41:11.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32165" CreationDate="2015-07-23T12:12:52.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things that could be causing the problem (in rough order of likelihood):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, the shoes (or pads if you have disk brakes) may have worn to the point where they need to be replaced or the brakes need some adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The brake cable may have stretched or slipped.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many caliper brake systems have a quick release to create some slack in the cable for changing the wheel. If the release is in the open position that you will have very little braking power from the affected brake (or none in the case of cantilever or center pull brakes). Common locations for the quick release are at the anchor bolt on side pulls, at one end of the straddle cable for cantilever or center pull brakes, or at the brake levers themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something may be contaminating the rim or disk preventing the pads from developing as much friction as they used to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible that a part was damaged in a crash or during handling of the bike. Check that the brakes move freely and return easily when you apply the lever.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T12:12:52.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32173" CreationDate="2015-07-23T12:26:33.070" Score="14" ViewCount="6117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any time tested ways to improve one's bike handling skills? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside of regular riding (road) are there certain exercises one can do to increase body awareness on the bike, improve coordination, and increase balance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any exercises one can do off of a bike to increase handling skills and balance while on the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T15:43:28.763" Title="How to improve one's bike handling skills?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;skills&gt;&lt;bike-handling&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32153" CreationDate="2015-07-23T12:26:40.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can grease the bearings, but the grease won't last very long.  Better to just clean and oil them, using chain oil.  Do this when you clean &amp;amp; oil the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the derailer is really gunked up, here is what I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lean the bike against a wall, with the derailer facing out.  Make sure you're on a surface that won't mind getting a little oil and dirt on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a section of newspaper against the wheel such that it covers the lower part of the wheel (trailing off onto the floor) and slides up behind the derailer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spray the derailer thoroughly with WD-40 or a similar spray solvent, to remove the gunk.  Ideally, use an old toothbrush to loosen hardened gunk.  (Yes, I &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; that WD-40 is not a &quot;lubricant&quot;.  But it's a pretty good solvent/degreaser for this sort of application.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thoroughly wipe the derailer and surrounding area dry with reasonably clean rags or paper toweling.  Also wipe up the puddle that's no doubt collected on the floor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oil the derailer and chain with good quality chain oil.  For &quot;general purpose&quot; use (neither wet nor dusty) I prefer a &quot;wax&quot; based product such at Tech-Line KryTech.  Wipe away the excess oil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the newspaper and wipe again.  (Dispose of the materials &quot;responsibly&quot;.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give the rim and tire face one more wipe with a clean rag -- you want to get as much oil off of these as possible (and even in the best of circumstances something will spatter there).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T12:26:40.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32170" CreationDate="2015-07-23T12:36:47.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that can help is training on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.elite-it.com/en/products/trainers/rollers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rollers&lt;/a&gt;. It's kind of dangerous at the begining, because the bike reacts a lot to little imbalances, but as you get more experience on them you will feel much more stable on the bike and this might help in feeling the bike better on the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for bike handling, ride it and ride it more, I don't think anything beats experience. You can look up techniques for cornering or decending, but you will have to try them a little faster each time to know your limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T12:36:47.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32170" CreationDate="2015-07-23T12:48:12.147" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;rapidly&lt;/em&gt; descending order of importance ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(see &lt;em&gt;Why I chose these priorities&lt;/em&gt; below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Practice track stands. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/990/how-to-do-a-track-stand&quot;&gt;How to do a track stand?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This teaches balance and slow bike handling skills. Also practice riding in confined spaces (the last time I fell off was trying to do a U turn on a path that was 4 ft (1.2m) wide :-)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn to jump both wheels off the ground at the same time. This is usually called a Bunny Hop. Apply to jumping objects.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You probably already do simple bunny hops to get up kerbs. See our bunny hop database &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=bunny+hop&quot;&gt;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=bunny+hop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn to pick objects up from the ground with your hands (on both sides).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Have you or a friend ever dropped something on the road and had to circle back, stop, and pick it up? With this skill you learn to control the bike while hanging off the side, with your knuckles dragging ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Start by placing a drink bottle on some level ground, and ride &lt;em&gt;slowly&lt;/em&gt; past it and pick it up with one hand. When you can do it with one hand, use the other. Then go for smaller objects. Last week I picked a pump a guy ahead of me in the bunch had dropped. Be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; careful with long objects; if they get in your spokes you'll never even know what happened :-)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn to mono. Ok, so I still haven't grown up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn stoppies (mono on front wheel). Just how much &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; your front brakes cope with?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two have obvious utility, the third is useful (but 99.9% of cyclists live without it) and the last two are more for fun. But they will all teach you balance and control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But probably number zero should be &lt;em&gt;learn to ride with no hands&lt;/em&gt;. Of course, this is illegal to do on the road, and of course every kid does it. Once you can do it well, you can put on and take off jerseys, rain tops, etc. Being winter here now, this one gets used every week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a bit more thought, I would add a couple of easy skills that teach a lot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn to initiate a turn using &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; your body weight. Most people turn by countersteering a tiny amount to initiate the turn. This skill teaches you how the geometry of your bike works, and links in with balance skills.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Practice riding along the painted road lines and see how far you do it. The further you can go the more balanced and fine tuned you are.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And seeing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/32174/8273&quot;&gt;answer by dlu&lt;/a&gt; reminded me to add &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On fast sections, where the surface is unknown (or known to be bumpy), get your bottom off the seat so that the bike can pivot under you. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Why I chose these priorities&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Items 1 to 5 are ordered as a combination of potential frequency of use and difficulty / danger involved in learning. Certainly @mattnz is correct that stoppies are valuable in emergencies (being able to do one saved me from a HUGE T-bone once).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T01:44:00.550" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32170" CreationDate="2015-07-23T12:50:06.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm far from an expert here, but here are somethings that have helped me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pay attention to how you feel on the bike and how the bike responds to you. Some of this you are probably doing naturally – like shifting your weight back as you brake.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Read about cycling technique.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Encourage yourself to think about and experiment with the dynamics of the bike – for example, how does the balance of weight shift between your front and back wheels as you go from sitting to standing? How might that affect the bike's handling?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Listen to riders talk (or write) about the skills that seem important to them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Notice how people explain their crashes and near crashes. Listen for what they did wrong or wish they'd known – you may have to infer the skills, but it will teach you a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T02:34:28.787" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T02:34:28.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32170" CreationDate="2015-07-23T13:18:08.010" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Off the bike many forms of exercise will help.  Yoga and martial arts in particular will help with balance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the bike consider mountain biking to help your road technique.  A mountain bike with no shocks even better.  Once you learn to negotiate rocks, roots, and drop offs then a lot of the low speed stuff that happens on the street seems easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocoss is a great way to improve your handling skills. You get to fall at lower speed on grass. They have clinics.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not a mountain bike but the style of road bike.  A racing bike with narrow tires is not going to be as agile or forgiving as a more upright position with larger tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are learning new street technique like hoping a curb it is easier to start on a mountain bike (I think). It is easier to bail on mountain bike (I think).  Set up some cones to weave in and out of. See how tight of a circle you can ride.  Empty parking garages are a good place to practice.  Ride over (and hop) the those cement blocks to stop the tire.  See if you can ride the length of the barrier. See if you can bounce the front wheel off a wall turn around. Track stands are easier to learn on a slight incline.  You can practice your downhill with a lot of turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T13:28:29.963" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T13:28:29.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32140" CreationDate="2015-07-23T13:42:14.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other great answers, slow cadence encourages, for some riders, standing cycling, particularly when going up hills.  This places a great deal of stress on the drivetrain, and in particular the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you stand or sit, though, a slower cadence is simply trading speed for force - the effort is the same, but the stress on the chain, chainrings, gears, and frame is higher.  In addition to the energy lost flexing those components more than a fast cadence rider, the wear and tear is higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're fine replacing your chain yearly and you buy heavy bikes which can handle the additional stress, then it's no problem - keep on keeping on. If you're not changing your chain yearly, then I expect you'll find you need to replace your chainrings and gears when you do change your chain - a stretched chain will ultimately damage and wear the chainrings and gears so that a new chain won't fit well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2381/i-keep-breaking-my-road-frames-why&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;I keep breaking my road frames - why?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; for one of the consequences of slow, powerful strokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you are a casual rider - fewer than a thousand miles a year - then chances are you won't see any issues and your cadence really is a preference, with no real consequences for you or your equipment. It really only matters if you frequently ride for long distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T13:42:14.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-23T14:48:52.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My problem was always going off too quickly to begin with. Don't watch the pros to begin with.  My tip is to go real slow. Get the lowest gear and just plod along. You can do almost any climb if you do it slow enough. Once you've done it slow to prove to yourself the hill can be beaten, repeat, but pick up the tempo as the top is in sight. As you improve, pick up the tempo earlier on the hill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember as you improve, your weight may not drop to begin with. Muscle weighs more than fat. As you improve your muscles will grow, your weight might stay the same, but your waist will start to shrink :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20670" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T14:48:52.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-23T15:44:34.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many good replies here. Read them a few times and consider carefully what everyone is saying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my experience-- I totally lacked any fitness when I began to ride again as a middle-aged adult-- the hill you're trying to ride is a little ambitious, if you're carrying a few extra pounds and your fitness has not been developed sufficiently. However, as everyone has indicated, it totally do-able, given enough time and effort. And you're not riding some vintage road bike with a 42/26 lowest gear (which clocks in at 42 gear-inches, about twice as much as your actual lowest gear, which comes in at 19.9 gear-inches).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of similar climbs near where I live (both about 0.4 miles, one with an average grade of 3%, and one with an average grade of 8%), and when I first started riding, I could just make the 3% grade, using the lowest gear on my vintage mountain bike (very similar to what your bike has), and it was a good long while before I attempted the 8% grade. On one of my first attempts of the 8% grade, I was passed on the way up by a female jogger, and she must have noticed how hard I was breathing, because I was really laboring. But over time, I kept riding, and now it's not that much of a big deal to do the 8% grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, keep riding, and I think you'll find that this climb becomes less intimidating very soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T15:44:34.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2015-07-23T15:49:05.323" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most everyone else has concentrated on the physical and/or your bike, and rightly so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the one thing I'd like to add is the mental side of riding hills. Here is the one thing I'd like you to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You can do more than you think you can&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try it next time you're going up that hill. Just as you're about to get off to walk, look about 20 feet ahead of your bike, spot a landmark such as a mailbox or a rock, and try to ride to it.  I bet you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then look ahead another 30 feet, spot another landmark and challenge yourself to get to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't think about the top of the hill. Think about little landmarks along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you end up stopping to walk, you'll have gotten farther up the hill than you initially meant to/thought you could.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time do the same; go further than you think you can. The energy is in you. The will is in you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soon you'll landmark yourself right up and over that hill!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20673" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T15:49:05.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32151" CreationDate="2015-07-23T15:55:54.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use this as an opportunity to teach him how to paint. Yes, you'll do much of the work, but you two can work together to pre-sand the existing paint, mask the parts you're not painting, and spray the new paint on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20673" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T15:55:54.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32144" CreationDate="2015-07-23T16:05:41.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your cheapest option is to mount the 8 speed cassette on the new wheels.  This will require a spacer but it'll get you up and running with minimal fuss and risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to upgrade your bike to support the 10 speed cassette then you will need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10 speed shifters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...you could replace only the rear shifter, but they're usually sold as a pair and you probably want them to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10 speed chain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...because your 8 speed chain is too wide&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You may need:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10 speed derraileur&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...because yours is designed for 8 speed and might not work well with your lovely new shifters and chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Front chainrings and/or derraileur&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...if you're unlucky then you could have issues with these parts not working well with the new narrow chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having budgeted for all of the above, you might find yourself considering a whole new groupset...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20674" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T16:05:41.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32170" CreationDate="2015-07-23T16:19:43.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ride off-road. Riding a road bike on dirt is a great way to improve your skills. Get out on dirt roads or mild MTB trails (just be mindful that large rocks or tree roots can cause a flat or even a dented rim if you're not careful) Bonus points: you get some great looks when you pass people on full suspension MTBs! ;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T16:19:43.080" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32170" CreationDate="2015-07-23T16:23:51.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't neglect your core and upper body. If your core is weak, your ability to balance, lift, and jump the bike will also be weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20494" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T16:23:51.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32151" CreationDate="2015-07-23T17:07:15.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option would be to use PlastiDip or something similar. It's not paint it's some kind of rubber coating, but I hear that it's really easy to spray on, gives a good finish (with a few applications) and doesn't require a lot of preparation (no sanding, it's removed easily if you spray at the wrong place). A lot of people use these products for car parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T17:07:15.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-23T18:20:16.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the sweat: I cycled in the humid midwest USA and would be drenched.  I brought a pack of jumbo baby wipes (wet ones big ones, I believe...try to get un-scented).  When changing in the restroom, I'd use two or three wipes and it would really get most of the salty muck off of me.  Get dressed, slap some product in my hair and I was good to go.  I don't recommend hanging out at your desk until you've changed.  Another coworker did that and people were really put off by his soggy self.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to packing dress clothes.  A t-shirt and jeans was the norm for my job when I rode to work.  I'd just fold and roll them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you also pack your lunch then get a container that seals very well and then put it in a sealed plastic bag.  Nothing like finding your clothes covered in mustard once you arrive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be sure to bring a spare tire tube and basic tools.  You will eventually end up using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.  I miss working close enough to ride.  It was the best 30 minutes of my day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20679" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T18:20:16.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T21:20:00.303" Score="4" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;In reference to one of these BB's: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0039369B4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-UN54-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B0039369B4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My kid had successfully chamferred the left BB cup's  splines, until there is no useable spline surfaces left.  metal alloy, not plastic.&#xA;What happened was the Right cup worked it's way loose (by design!) and he just kept riding it until the left crank abraded the left cup to nothingness, that, and he couldn't pedal it any more ;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1. What is the recommended extraction method for the mucked up left cup?   Dremel and cold chisel?&#xA;Q2. Does the LBS sell &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; the left cup?&#xA;Q3. To prevent a repeat, is it advisable to put some Lock Tite on the Right cup?  From what I can tell, the BB was never faced properly, and the RHS cup will continue to work loose, given it is a LH thread and is on the RHS.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&#xA;Jordan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20682" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T22:12:13.493" Title="Shimano Bottom Bracket LHS cup - splines all worn off. Removal tips?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32186" CreationDate="2015-07-23T21:56:06.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q1 - Removing the damaged left cup:&lt;/strong&gt; I think I'd do this by first removing the crank arms and the right hand cup. Then, I'd remove the axle. Once you have it all apart you can work on removing the left hand cup. Since it has a right hand thread what I think I'd do is to get an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_extractor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;screw extractor (aka an EasyOut)&lt;/a&gt;. You can find sets online fairly inexpensively, Harbor Freight also carries them, and your local hardware or plumbing supply store will also have them. If you're going someplace local, take the right hand cup to make sure you get the right size. With the EasyOut you'll be able to back the cup out using the hole for the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q2 - Can you buy just the left cup:&lt;/strong&gt; I'd be surprised if you could, but bottom brackets are relatively inexpensive. A descent conventional bottom bracket lists for US $30 and you can find them pretty easily discounted to about half of that. It seems likely that enough parts of that bottom bracket are damaged that it would be worth replacing the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q3 - Should you use a thread locking compound:&lt;/strong&gt; You could, but it's probably unnecessary. The left hand thread is self-tightening as long as the bearings are doing their job. It's a bit counterintuitive at first, but think about how the bottom bracket works. From the right hand side the crank is turning clockwise. This causes the ball bearings to turn counter clockwise, so the motion of the bearings on the outside – against the bottom bracket cup – is working on tightening the left hand thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T21:56:06.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32266" CreationDate="2015-07-23T21:57:08.267" Score="2" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is urban riding on bumpy road while suspension fork locked and without slow down harming to my bike or me? I don't care about my comfort so much. I don't want to slow down or to lose energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20684" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T22:52:08.023" Title="How does riding on bumpy road while suspension fork locked and without slow down effects?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32186" CreationDate="2015-07-23T22:12:13.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have run into two situations similar to yours and used two different methods. In both cases I removed the right side and gently tapped out the bearing and shaft. The first time I used a small 3/8&quot; wide chisel. I caught the chisel tip on the remnants of the spline and gently tapped until it moved. I sprayed the area with ammonia. (Reference questions about aluminum seatposts) I then tapped the cup in the opposite direction. After an hour or so I was able to make progress by alternating clockwise and counter clockwise, going further each rotation. The second time this didn't work and I resulted to using a large pipe nipple extractor. A regular EZ out set would need to be over an inch in diameter. They are not that common. I was able to borrow one as they run about $30. At that price you'd better off checking with your LBS.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T22:12:13.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32188" CreationDate="2015-07-23T23:10:56.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it's not harming to you whatsoever. On the contrary, riding on bumpy stuff with a rigid fork is good for your upper body fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike will be fine. Installing skinnier tires would be a good move if you wanted even more efficiency, and didn't mind the discomfort that came with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T23:10:56.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32191" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T23:14:32.807" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello there I just refurbish and converted a Bridgestone  MB -5. I using Shimano Sora flight deck shifters 3x8. Rear derailleur is a Shimano Deore front Shimano Derailleur. Crank is a Silgiovt sp 11/44 - 11/34. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not shifting as good as I would like in middle range would like to fine a better combination.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/elQHB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/elQHB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thank You for any help would be grateful .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20685" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T13:40:25.317" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T13:40:25.317" Title="Upgrade conversion" Tags="&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32188" CreationDate="2015-07-23T23:19:40.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have a suspension fork, I guess your bike should be at least hybrid to mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most hybrid start off with 32 mm tyre upwards (or 1.25 inch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At around 38 mm upwards (or 1.5 inch), you can take on most of the pot holes, provided that you are not crashing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike and the difference in the shock absorbance of 23 mm tyre and 28 mm tyre on 700c wheel is already monumental (although it is not enough to mount curb or drop potholes), just to show you that wider tyre is very good and absorbing some potholes in urban area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a mountain bike, rigid fork with 26x1.5&quot; tyre and never worry about pot holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T23:19:40.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T01:17:59.853" Score="1" ViewCount="1065" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Bridgestone MB-5 currently has a 7-speed rear wheel. I'd like to convert it to a 10-speed. Is this possible? Is it practical?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20685" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T03:10:02.543" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T03:21:24.773" Title="Converting from 7-speed to 10-speed rear wheel" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32188" CreationDate="2015-07-24T02:39:55.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a bumpy but fairly level road, absent any suspension, energy goes three places:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friction between tire and road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wind resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vibrating your body up and down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason #3 is a factor is that you jiggle as you ride, and that absorbs a lot of energy -- the more you jiggle, the more energy is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can reduce jiggle by using lower air pressure in the tires, but this increases tire/road friction.  You can add front and/or rear suspension to reduce jiggle, but the suspension itself absorbs energy, plus it tends to make pedaling less efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's a tradeoff -- at some point in the transition between smooth and really rough roads it probably pays, in terms of energy efficiency, to unlock the shocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T02:39:55.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32193" CreationDate="2015-07-24T03:21:24.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be interested in this .. &lt;a href=&quot;http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&amp;amp;jsonp=vglnk_14377075766719&amp;amp;drKey=1050&amp;amp;libId=ich1ygve01000er2000DAdyzstbsb&amp;amp;loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bikeforums.net%2Fclassic-vintage%2F49577-bridgestone-mb-5-a.html&amp;amp;v=1&amp;amp;out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sheldonbrown.com%2Fbridgestone%2F1992%2F1992.pdf&amp;amp;ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.co.nz&amp;amp;title=bridgestone%20mb-5&amp;amp;txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sheldonbrown.com%2Fbridgestone%2F1992%2F1992.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The 1992 Bridgestone catalogue&lt;/a&gt; (8meg PDF) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is the lower end of the range (MB-6 being lowest), meaning its not worth that much and never started out as a great bike. As its steel (one redeeming feature), its possible to cold form the frame to widen the rear drop outs to take a 10speed, so technically its possible...... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practically its not worth it. The bike is old and low end. To upgrade to 10Speed you would need &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complete Wheel (at least a new Hub and cassette) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dérailleur &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain rings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shifter Cables &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T03:21:24.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T09:39:39.140" Score="0" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rims are pretty old and I need help in buying a new ones. Can I use 26er rims for 26x1.95 tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20694" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2017-12-27T13:55:52.473" LastActivityDate="2017-12-27T13:55:52.473" Title="26er rims for a 26x1.95 tire?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2017-12-27T13:58:44.033" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32149" CreationDate="2015-07-24T09:59:11.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wheel was probably badly built in factory and/or not adjusted when you bought the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway 24 spoke wheel is very odd component selection for touring bicycle, and I would get myself decently built 36 spoke rear wheel, if I were in your position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T09:59:11.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-24T10:25:18.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated in the accepted answer: roll up your business clothes.  Suit and shoes do not need to travel each time, just find some place to hang or fold them in your office.  Be sure to take the investment in a water-proof sidebag of high quality.  They are surprisingly expensive and surprisingly indispensable.  Not having to carry anything on your back gives you air.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to body odor, I'd recommend getting rid of underarm hair.  Waxing has tolerably long service intervals and pricing but the first few times are not fun.  In my experience, even showering and very thorough laving right before the hike was only marginally effective against rejuvenating considerable body odor when sweating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing armpit hair was quite helpful.  Mind you, you'll get rather wetter there in consequence (so it won't help against sweat stains if they are a cause of worry for you), but you can easily wipe it when changing and the smell is quite more neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those isolated patches of body hair nature left us with serve as smell beacons, and at least the underarm hair is hard to keep from doing its job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20695" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T10:25:18.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32213" CreationDate="2015-07-24T11:06:26.473" Score="3" ViewCount="1889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Googled for this, but couldn't find the proper torque (in Newton-meters) for Shimano Alfine 8- and 11-speed IGH axle nuts. I'm putting the hub back on the bike after removing the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm no techie, but I read that an IGH must be tightened to the correct torque, neither too tight (risk of damaging the IGH) nor too loose (speeds won't change correctly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct torque for these nuts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2922" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T07:17:34.037" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T07:17:34.037" Title="Torque for Shimano Alfine 8/11 Speed Internally Geared Hub Axle Nuts?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-24T11:16:10.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people where I'm from (Sweden, winter temperatures -10..+30C) who want to dress well and ride a bike to work buy an electric bike with pedal assistance, it lets them ride fast while not exerting so much energy to get sweaty, they are legal to ride in bike lanes as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you might be hesitant to buy another bike, but there are kits for converting an existing bike to an electrical one for about $700-800 including the the li-ion battery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20698" LastEditorUserId="17371" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T23:28:08.083" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T23:28:08.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2015-07-24T15:04:45.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a desk job with little required physical exertion, in an air conditioned environment, and I wear undershirts.  Wearing the same clothes for several days in a row for only 8 hours a day isn't a problem in this environment with this work load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I keep a change of clothes in the office.  When I arrive at work I cool down (server room at 65F (18C) works quickly for this!) and then change into my work outfit.  If needed I wipe excess moisture from myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I swap clothes when I drive, or sometime when I'm not working - it's just another errand.  I've considered having several outfits at the office so I'm not wearing the same thing every day for a few days at a time, but it's a small office, I'm not customer-facing, and the dress is casual, so it really isn't an issue. I've swapped clothes on bike as well, wrinkles aren't much of an issue, but if they were then hanging the clothes up at the office would resolve most wrinkles in the clothing I choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T15:04:45.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T16:00:39.960" Score="6" ViewCount="2923" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up a child's bike from the recycling center - and I was going to give it to a financially strapped worker that I know.  The brakes could easily be adjusted to be quite a bit stronger - but I'm wondering if that's a good idea.  (It looks to be for someone aged 4-7.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how feasible it is for a child to go over the handlebars, or if poor handling skills (well, compared to an adult) could cause them to crash with the &quot;better&quot; adjusted brake.  It would be understandable if someone so small wasn't very good at choosing a power on a tightly adjusted piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what should I do?  What do shops/stores usually do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7136" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T23:56:12.430" Title="How should the brakes on a child's bike be adjusted?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;children&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32205" CreationDate="2015-07-24T17:04:34.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to make a distinction between the front and rear brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong rear brakes aren't dangerous, but strong front brakes (when in inexperienced hands) can cause a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a bike that small, I'd go with a weaker front brake. The kid won't be going fast enough to warrant big stopping power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear brake isn't as important. I would leave it however it is. It might be worth noting that with a strong rear brake, most kids will lay down a lot of rubber and wear the rear tire out quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if the brakes really don't bite the wheel at all, then yes, they do need to be tightened. In other words, if it's really easy for you to squeeze the brake lever to the point where the lever hits the handle-grip, the brakes are too loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T17:04:34.630" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32210" CreationDate="2015-07-24T17:42:05.170" Score="10" ViewCount="3516" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is 700x25 continental Ultra Sport II&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed there are two holes in both tires, and wonder if this is a manufacturing fault, or simply a wear indicator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aWJed.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aWJed.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T18:38:59.997" LastActivityDate="2019-01-31T16:36:47.610" Title="Hole in road bike tire" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32207" CreationDate="2015-07-24T18:09:42.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Highly likely to be a wear indicator. The Conti Grand Prix 4000s have them as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9179" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T18:09:42.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32207" CreationDate="2015-07-24T18:37:36.987" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, those are wear indicators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.westernbikeworks.com/product/continental-gatorskin-700c-road-tire-wire-bead&quot;&gt;The change is noted by retailers&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: Continental has added wear indicators to all Continental&#xA;  Gatorskin tires. These small divots in the tread surface are&#xA;  intentional and are not a sign of a factory defect. Once the rubber&#xA;  wears to the point where the divots are no longer discernible, you'll&#xA;  know it's time to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T20:51:19.483" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T20:51:19.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25410" CreationDate="2015-07-24T18:49:50.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Netherlands, and other places, precious cargo is often transported in a 'bakfiets'. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietsersbond.nl/de-fiets/fietssoorten/bakfietsen/bakfietsentest#.VbKHf_ntmko&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This test&lt;/a&gt; has photos of several (and a good test in Dutch) so I do not favor one over any other.&#xA;There are also transporter bikes with enclosed front boxes but those are often just that bit bigger that finding a parking spot is not easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional bakfiets in the Netherlands is quite big, you can transport a baby grand piano in them, and some do to play outside. The modern ones are smaller and handle like a normal bike, although some are trikes  and handle as trikes not much bigger than a bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T09:07:20.103" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T09:07:20.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32201" CreationDate="2015-07-24T20:40:54.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is how I found the answer (30-45 N-m):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Followed the link in the first comment on the question (or I could have done a search for something like &quot;shimano alfine hub service pdf&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The link Gordon provided was led to several Shimano products identified only by part number, so I did another search for &quot;shimano alfine 11 hub&quot; and found a listing on Amazon with the part number (SG-700). Shimano's part numbers are pretty transparent – if you know the two letter code that they use for different components – so you might be able skip this step with a lucky guess.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From there I opened up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/um/SI-37R0A-002-ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;service manual&lt;/a&gt; and scanned it for the step where the cap nuts are tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T20:40:54.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25410" CreationDate="2015-07-24T20:57:21.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to carry a small acoustic guitar (OO sized) by attaching it like a pannier to the rear rack. The neck of the guitar went straight up. I would think that you could do something similar with a trombone. I can't quite picture a trombone case, but it seems like it might actually fit in a pannier which would make it very easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the stands folding music stands? It seems like they might fit in a pannier or could be strapped on a rack. The sheet music could go in a portfolio or binder in a pannier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted you could use something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkel-od.com/en/cam-lock-hook-kit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pannier mounting hardware from Arkel&lt;/a&gt; to modify a case to attach to your racks like a pannier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T21:26:24.730" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T21:26:24.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31585" CreationDate="2015-07-24T21:48:23.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As some have pointed out in the comments, the question is somewhat misleading, i.e. speed difference is always going to be greater in a head on collision, all things being equal, versus if the collision had been a rear ended collision or a t-bone, but, as @Daniel notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;This is (mostly) unrelated to the probability of the collision in the&#xA;  first place&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;em&gt;The League of American Bicyclists&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 40 percent of the cases (628 total), the victim was struck from behind. The second-most common category was T-bone crashes, which accounted for 10 percent of fatal crashes. Head-on collisions (8 percent) and right-hook crashes, where the driver makes a right turn into a traveling straight (6 percent), were relatively less common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0SeWo.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0SeWo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting rear-ended is obviously the most common type of accident.  These numbers do not say the percentage of fatalities from rear-end collisions (they mention it for T-Bones).  However, if one holds to certain basic assumptions regarding the topic at hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most cyclist will try to avoid a collision at all costs &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A collision is prerequisite for fatality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed difference is always greater head-on than same direction, rider speed and vehicle speed held equal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conclusion one can draw from this is that all things being equal, following these stats (and other sources below) one should always ride head on, because statistically, one has the least chance of collision, even if the closing speed is the greatest, which itself, would then seem not to have any correlation with risk of collision, or possibly an inverse relationship if assumption 3 is held.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Head on collisions &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; have a higher incidence of fatality than others, I don't know.  If someone finds data on that please share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, riding at a lower relative speed (to other vehicles) alongside traffic is more dangerous but &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; less fatal, whereas riding at a &lt;em&gt;higher&lt;/em&gt; relative speed against traffic is statistically less dangerous but &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; prove to be more fatal in the event of an accident.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other relevant sources: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trafficsafetycoalition.com/bike_studies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.trafficsafetycoalition.com/bike_studies&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T21:48:23.427" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31850" CreationDate="2015-07-24T22:24:56.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that the issue was caused by a &lt;em&gt;worn shifter cable casing&lt;/em&gt; -- the plastic tubing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LBS replaced it at around a fifth of the price of replacing the cassette and/or chain gears, and everything works like a charm now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20397" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T22:24:56.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T22:33:13.073" Score="0" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Kzec.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Kzec.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Full Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmdPj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmdPj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire Fit&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this bike one morning near my house and figured I'd bring it home to work on it/restore it. But I have no idea what make/model/year it is and I come asking for help. I can make out the word &quot;SINTESI&quot; on the side but that's about it. I tried to take a picture of the brand marks that were still visible but mind you, none of these may be stock. Also I stuck a 700c wheel on it and I was wondering if it's too big? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20716" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T01:32:30.343" Title="2 questions: What bike is this? Also is this front wheel too big?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32142" CreationDate="2015-07-24T23:11:38.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Converting your single speed bike to geared one is probably not worth the effort, for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cassettes and hub gears both need different kind of wheel hubs than single speeds. You will need to change the whole wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Single speed bicycles usually have narrower rear fork spacing (distance between rear fork dropouts) than geared ones. Your rear fork might not be wide enough to accommodate any geared hub.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Being single speed, your rear dropout most likely doesn't have hanger for a derailleur. Add in parts, and derailleur than can be mounted on the axle do exists, but it adds extra layer of trouble for the whole enterprise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The frame of your bike probably doesn't have any cable guides either. You will have to either find add in guides, or use makeshift solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I wouldn't try it. It might not be possible at all, due to rear fork spacing. Even if it is possible, it's going to take money, special tools and quite some time put functional gears on your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19611" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T23:11:38.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32019" CreationDate="2015-07-24T23:17:51.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following the advice of those who commented: I came upon this solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the access length (about 1 cm), leaving enough for adjustment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Melt the ends of the straps with a torch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use electrical tape to wrap the ends tightly so they resemble 'method 1' but without the excess length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOge6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lOge6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rpcyH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rpcyH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/opq6Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/opq6Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LbwOk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LbwOk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T23:17:51.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25557" CreationDate="2015-07-24T23:32:14.723" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bearing that is adjusted too tight can actually seize completely. This happened to me once. I overhauled my front hub and tightened the bearing cones too much. Result: a front wheel that plain stopped turning at some point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too tight adjustment will exert more pressure on the cones and cups, and will probably wear out the bearings faster than too loose an adjustment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For proper adjustment, the Park tool website has good instructions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19611" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T07:17:48.150" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T07:17:48.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32217" CreationDate="2015-07-25T01:32:30.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really hard to tell from the pictures. One thing I am certain of is that almost none of it is stock. A few observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The main frame is lugged, has full length brake cable housing and horizontal dropouts and starred bottle braze-ons. All of those date it to sometime prior to the late 80s. Split brake cable housing on road bikes became the norm on production bikes in the late 80s. Horizontal dropouts also largely disappeared from mass production bikes due to the introduction of indexed shifting in the mid to late 80s.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fork is a unicrown model. Unicrown forks on massed produced road bikes didn't really become the norm until the early 90s. This one has a threaded headset so it mostly likely predates the late 90s by which time threadless became the norm on mass production bikes in the interest of cost savings. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sintesi is an Italian company who came on the scene in the early 90s and are still around though no longer in the US market (AFAIK). That said, &quot;Sintesi&quot; is also Italian for &quot;synthesis&quot; so it could simply be a model name rather than actual brand (for example, Irio Tommasini offers a model called the &quot;Sintesi&quot; but this isn't one of his) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stem is likely from the 70s. CB was a common brand back then. The brake levers likely say Universal, Weinmann or CLB. The exposed brake cable date them to prior to the late 80s at which point &quot;aero&quot; levers had become the norm. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T01:32:30.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32227" CreationDate="2015-07-25T01:55:00.407" Score="11" ViewCount="966" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today on the Tour de France, Vincenzo Nibali attacked while Chris Froome was having mechanical difficulties. According to the commentators and Froome himself, that's something you just don't do. Apparently it's seen as unsportsmanlike. Where does this come from, and why would a rider not take every advantage possible in order to win the race? I understand why it would be in bad form to do something like that on a casual group ride, but it seems like any advantage you could get in a professional race would be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's especially interesting because Nibali lost a lot of time in the first week due to mechanical problems and a crash. It seems from comments surrounding the occurrence today that it's only bad form to leave the race leader behind when he has a mechanical problem. Can somebody please explain this to me. In any other sport somebody who has an equipment malfunction is just supposed to deal with it, and nobody is going to slow down for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T23:11:16.353" Title="Why do riders not take advantage of other riders misfortune" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24520" CreationDate="2015-07-25T02:00:08.200" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've glued hundreds of tubulars and learned the craft from some of the best mechanics in the sport including a former wrench with the Motorola team and a former Mavic Service Course mechanic. These days tubulars are really only used in cyclocross, track and at the very top level of the sport. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some very distinct downsides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safety. Improperly glued tubulars can roll off in a corner. This is not to be taken lightly. Even top pros have rolled tubulars (Joseba Beloki famously went down hard in the 2003 Tour de France, effectively ending his career) On a long descent dragging your brakes can heat up the rim enough to soften the glue resulting in a rolled tire. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expense. A decent tubular costs significantly more than a good clincher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repair. You can't patch a tubular during a ride. You pretty much have to replace the entire tire. This means you need to carry at least one spare tire per ride (and hope you don't get more than one flat!) This BTW pretty much negates any weight savings which are trivial to begin with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hassle. Mounting tubulars is a multi-day process, especially if you're mounting them on bare rims for the first time. Getting the tire onto the rim is significantly more difficult than mounting even the toughest clincher. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, all that said if you're going to move forward I strongly suggest using mastik instead of tape. Tape isn't that much less messy and the bond seems to be less consistent then a good gluing job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Park Tool has as good a guide as any on mounting tubulars as anyone: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/tubular-tire-gluing&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/tubular-tire-gluing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few other tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do NOT use 3M Fast Tack! Some people swear by the stuff. I've personally seen several tires roll from using it. This is especially true with Continental tubulars. Fast Tack actually dissolves the glue that holds the base tape to the tubular casing. Someone a few years back did a study on tubular cements and Fast Tack did very poorly (&lt;a href=&quot;http://kuktl.dept.ku.edu/bicycle/Cusa1.pdf&quot;&gt;http://kuktl.dept.ku.edu/bicycle/Cusa1.pdf&lt;/a&gt;) Stick to Continental or Vittoria. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount the tires to a clean rim, inflate them to high pressure (120+ psi) and let them sit for a while (as in several days). This will make it much easier to mount them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People will tell you to put a foot in the tubular and then pull up until you hear a popping sound. They claim this is stretching the tire to make it fit easier. These people are idiots. The popping your hearing is the base tape detaching from the casing or threads in the casing tearing. Don't do this! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T02:00:08.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32205" CreationDate="2015-07-25T02:04:59.717" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;With young children is very rare for them to have the hand strength to cause a problem with brake strength. Their hands are small and weak, giving small reach hence low level action in the brake handle. Children bikes are built using cheap components (Even the components on the best children bike rate just above BSO adult bike components) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bikes for my boys (now 11 and 7) were always adjusted with both brakes giving maximum possible braking. I would be very surprised if a front brake being too tight would cause a crash, unless it was grabbing and not braking progressively.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further - the kind of crash needs to be considered. I would rather my boy went over the handle bars through too much brake force than under a car though not enough..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T02:04:59.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32222" CreationDate="2015-07-25T02:13:43.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You answered your own question: it's not sporting behavior. It's also considered to be deeply unprofessional. You might gain an advantage that one time but after that everyone would be gunning for you. Also every rider has bad luck at some point. The professional courtesy you extend to a rider will one day be returned to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T02:13:43.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25557" CreationDate="2015-07-25T02:16:53.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that a hub that feels a tiny bit loose when out of the bike will likely have no play once you put it in the frame/fork. The clamping force on the axle nuts will tighten things up, removing the excess play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T02:16:53.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32222" CreationDate="2015-07-25T03:11:51.470" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This compilation of articles on the subject goes into a lot of depth and sources some examples and opinions of some very notable cyclists themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bfc.sfsu.edu/cgi-bin/unwritten.pl?Dont_attack_when_your_rival_suffers_bad_luck_-_Cycling&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bfc.sfsu.edu/cgi-bin/unwritten.pl?Dont_attack_when_your_rival_suffers_bad_luck_-_Cycling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;I don't know when it evolved,&amp;quot; said Phil Liggett ... &amp;quot;It's been a gradual thing, this so-called unwritten code. But now it is understood. You don't attack a fallen man.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;The unwritten rules among elite bike riders hold that a rider should win through effort and talent, not through misfortune on the part of competitors.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T03:11:51.470" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T04:15:09.480" Score="1" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2006 Specialized Langster. Unfortunately the brake bridge is not deep enough to insert the shortest caliper mounting nut I could find (10mm). The head of the nut should insert all of the way into the brake bridge, and the head of the nut should be supported on the interior shoulder of the brake bridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead the nut sticks out and won't insert all of the way into the brake bridge hole, and the end of the nut rests against the thin rear shoulder of the brake bridge. This means the head is completely unsupported. ie the nut is too long for the brake bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could potentially fix this by grinding down the mounting nut so that it is about 8mm long. This would allow the nut to insert fully into the brake bridge and be supported at the head of the nut. But I'm wondering if grinding down the nut is safe to do? Do you think it would weaken the nut or cause it to crack over time? Also the threads would have to be chased. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be hard to visualize but take a look at the mounting nut on your rear brake caliper. You will see it fits nicely into the brake bridge and inserts all the way, with the head of the nut resting against the brake bridge creating a secure mounting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contacted Specialized and they won't treat it as a warranty issue. Please let me know your thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Actually, I &lt;strong&gt;am&lt;/strong&gt; talking about the mounting nut rather than the bolt. Modern brake calipers mount using a 10mm or longer cylindrical nut with a larger diameter &quot;head&quot; and smaller diameter inner hollow &quot;cylinder&quot; which is threaded on the inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outer diameter is the &quot;head&quot; of the nut and it presses against an interior shoulder recessed in the brake bridge which acts as the load bearing surface. The inner diameter is a cylinder which fits through the brake bridge and threads on to the caliper mounting bolt coming through the other side of the brake bridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything works on most bikes. But in this case it appears the brake bridge is not deep enough to fit even the shortest available (10mm) nut. So as far as I can tell the brake bridge is simply built wrong -- the brake bridge has a square center drilled out &quot;box&quot; section welded on that is simply not deep enough. Since Specialized won't warranty the frame, I am stuck with figuring out how to grind down the nut safely, while preserving its threads and hopefully keeping it from getting overheated, brittle and developing stress cracks over time. This is what I am hoping you can help with!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20068" LastEditorUserId="20068" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T01:02:06.087" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T14:57:49.983" Title="Safe to shorten a dual-pivot caliper mounting nut?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;design&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17119" CreationDate="2015-07-25T04:42:02.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see why Chris King would talk down on integrated headsets about being a flawed design since they first came out into the BMX scene,what,12 or 13 years ago?His business was based on the old cup design!Integrated headsets not only eliminated 1 or 2 grams of weight,which is really nothing,but also simplified assembly by a long shot.Who would still want to hammer their cups into their headtube when they can just slip the bearings into their heat treated headtube,cut installation into a fraction of the time and just ride away?A sport like BMX is all about evolution in all its forms and disciplines and he knows this.If he also made bottom brackets,would he say the same about when they went in BMX from American to Euro to Spanish and Mid?Probably,I'm pretty sure.But for example,each change in BMX technology as far as bearing development and application has improved tenfold since its introduction into the sport,and in every step along the way.Every company in the industry just joined and snowballed the evolution of the sport and the technology used to improve on things that were once flawed designs.Hell,my first integrated headset was a FSA Impact and I got it in 2005.Believe it or not,I'm still riding the crap out of it.Yes,to this day.It's been on 7 frames,ridden hard on each and every one of em and still laughing at me as it asks for more after each session.So definitely I'll be the first to say that it's not that much of a flawed design.Sorry Mr King,but you were wrong with your speculations about integrated headsets being brought into the sport.I'll agree to disagree...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20720" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T04:42:02.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32222" CreationDate="2015-07-25T04:43:01.367" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no rule saying you must wait. But that behavior comes from understanding the sport's first principle. The&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;UCI regulations&lt;/strong&gt; say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Section 2: bicycles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preamble&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...  The  principle asserts the primacy of man over machine. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So cyclists are meant to be competing against each other, not each other's bikes. It's a fine line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to read more,&#xA;see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/mm/Document/News/Rulesandregulation/16/26/49/1-GEN-20141101-E_English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;UCI CYCLING REGULATIONS GENERAL ORGANISATION OF CYCLING AS A SPORT PART 1 GENERAL ORGANISATION OF CYCLING AS A SPORT&lt;/a&gt; (pdf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T04:43:01.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32231" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-25T08:30:29.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common angles used are angle of the head tube and the seat tube, measured from the horizontal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T12:41:06.030" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T12:41:06.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32232" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-25T08:30:29.940" Score="0" Body="Questions concerning the angles, tube lengths, and other measurements of the bike frame." OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T12:40:55.127" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T12:40:55.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T10:32:23.733" Score="4" ViewCount="1103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a road bike that I use mostly for &lt;strong&gt;touring&lt;/strong&gt; (2-3 day trips) and my &lt;strong&gt;daily commute&lt;/strong&gt; (~25km). It's loaded with the &lt;code&gt;Shimano 2300 (2013)&lt;/code&gt; 3 X 10 groupset. I know it's not the most efficient or lightweight, but for my purposes it has served me well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just broke the rear derailleur. My policy is to always replace parts with ones of the same or better quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that 8-speed parts are becoming less and less common for road bikes, so buying better or equivalent parts for the 2300 is becoming difficult (I live in Singapore).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it to upgrade to a complete higher tier groupset like the current Tiagra? My hope is that with this change I can access the market of 10 X 3 speed components and have room to upgrade part by part later if I want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I need to change more parts than the ones included (derailleurs, shifters, cassette, crankset, BB) other than the chain if my bicycle already handles 2300?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20722" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T05:29:21.813" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T04:38:07.213" Title="Shifting from Shimano 2300 to Tiagra" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;groupsets&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32233" CreationDate="2015-07-25T10:41:29.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All Shimano rear derailleurs have same actuation ration (except for 10-speed MTB), so you can just swap in a Tiagra one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second question, a higher quality groupset will be slightly lighter and work better. The shifter levers on Tiagra and upwards are different design, allowing more comfortable shifting from the drops. Changing entire groupset will require some special tools and be expensive, if you aren't looking for a DIY learning project it's probably best to sell the current bike and buy a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T10:41:29.137" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32259" CreationDate="2015-07-25T12:14:15.907" Score="1" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told this was a Cinelli frame although it's clearly not. The fork seems to be original but I'm not sure of what it could be just by looking at its dropouts and lugs. The seat post is 26.8, english threaded and there is a &quot;suntour pro&quot; stamp on the dropouts.&#xA;I would seriously be glad if anyone could help! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/Ponk8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;frame, dropouts, windowed lugs and fork crown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/2EQFN0f.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;serial number&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;oh! sorry for the weird rendering on the photos, my iphone has become senile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20723" LastEditorUserId="20577" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T12:40:58.677" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T15:58:14.133" Title="Help identifying this frame?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32222" CreationDate="2015-07-25T14:34:41.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have some very good bicycle answers.  This is more unwritten rules in other sports.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many sports have unwritten rules and I would argue they are good for the sport.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically it is about sportsmanship and you let the players address it rather than than try and address it in the rules.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These unwritten rules rarely rise to the level of a tradition as they do in bicycle racing. The closest thing may be leaving center court together at Wimbledon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In hockey you have enforcers. In baseball if you show up a pitcher you are likely to get an intention hit by pitch the next at bat. In car racing pits loan tools and parts and are not required to. In basketball you have trash talk but in golf you don't. In skating and many sports competitors will coach each other even during competition.  In soccer they may tank a free kick if they felt the penalty was not correct.  In bicycle racing on the final day if there is a clear winner they just ride and a tight battle for 2nd and 3rd would rather race.  Permission to ride first through your home town is a self policed and fall back to the pack has not always been honored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not going to argue if it is a good practice or not for bicycle racing but I am for let the practice be the practice.  If the riders want to do it in their sense of fairness then let them.  If I hold back I only penalize myself (and team).  Let a team decide not to honor the practice some day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In pretty much all sports there is a sense of fairness that practiced and not part of the rules.  And I think it is good for the sport and spectators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bleacherreport.com/articles/2543081-doncaster-allow-injury-time-equaliser-to-bury-after-scoring-freak-goal?utm_source=facebook.com&amp;amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;amp;utm_campaign=programming-national&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;soccer example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T23:11:16.353" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T23:11:16.353" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32140" CreationDate="2015-07-25T16:26:17.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also like to cycle in the higher gears, the slower cadence.&#xA;I have always been told that it is not good for your knees and when I have trouble with sore legs I do switch to lower gears and find that I have less pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I do have an upper limit in how fast I can turn my legs, it is going up over the years but I still like the higher gears and the slower cadence. Hills are not my strong suit, as I can not turn my legs fast enough to keep the speed up enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you watch bike races, like the Tour de France, you will see that even the professional riders have different cadences, some like higher ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T16:26:17.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32242" CreationDate="2015-07-25T21:33:01.260" Score="1" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to formalize the maintenance of a bicycle. Every component must be periodically checked using the following algorithm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Begin&#xA;    1: Wait for appropriate time&#xA;    Measure the component wearout&#xA;    Is it ok?&#xA;        yes: go to (1)&#xA;        no:&#xA;            Is the damage critical?&#xA;                yes: replace&#xA;                no: repair&#xA;End&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every component has a method of measuring it's state. The best one is a special tool, giving the precise value of wearout. But not every one has it. I created a table for all the components I could think of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|------------------------------+---------------------------------------------|&#xA;| Component                    | Measuring method                            |&#xA;|------------------------------+---------------------------------------------|&#xA;| Chain dirty, needs           | Visual inspection.                          |&#xA;| cleaning and lubrication     | Chain links become stuck to each other.     |&#xA;|------------------------------+---------------------------------------------|&#xA;| Chain elongation             | Special tool                                |&#xA;| Rear cassette gears worn out | Special tool                                |&#xA;| Front chain ring worn out    | ?                                           |&#xA;| Tires                        | Visual inspection.                          |&#xA;| Tubes                        | ?                                           |&#xA;| V-brake pads                 | Feeling of bad breaking. Visual inspection. |&#xA;| Disk brakes disks            | ?                                           |&#xA;| Cables                       | ?                                           |&#xA;| Fork                         | ?                                           |&#xA;| Oil inside fork              | ?                                           |&#xA;|------------------------------+---------------------------------------------|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more component that also require inspection and replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can somebody fill in the question marks in my table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13656" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T00:09:39.380" Title="Controlling the state of bicycle components" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32244" CreationDate="2015-07-25T23:41:48.170" Score="3" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently own a Cygolite Hotshot which I use with a rack mount in flashing mode. I also have a PDW The red planet which I keep on steady burn.&#xA;I wanted something brighter than TRP so I ordered a Niterider Sentinel 40 (which seems to be just like the Solas 40 just with laser lanes), the difference between that and the Hotshot is the diffusing lens on the Sentinel allows for a much larger light spread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride at night on the shoulder (except when I go through intersections, then I'm in the right lane) of a semi-lit intercity 2-lane road where traffic goes at 80-110kph (~50-70mph).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm not sure which light I should use on steady burn and which in flashing mode. Would it be better for the steady burn to be the focused beam and the flashing to be spread out? Or the other way around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20730" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T01:34:48.123" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T01:34:48.123" Title="How should I configure my tail-lights?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;visibility&gt;&lt;taillight&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32205" CreationDate="2015-07-25T23:56:12.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From firsthand experience I would say weaker front brakes and stronger rear brakes.&#xA;When I was about 8 years old I was riding very fast and stopped short with the front brake, I went flying over the handlebars headfirst into the pavement (I wasn't a light kid either, I was actually one of the huskier kids), my helmet may have saved my life that day, I still needed stitches on my face though.&#xA;It gave me a lifetime lesson about always riding with a helmet on and about using the front brakes carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20730" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T23:56:12.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32239" CreationDate="2015-07-26T00:09:39.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most of your ?s, I would use visual inspection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you always check your chain for wear, the chain rings and cassette will last a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brake pads, rotors and rims have waer indicator guides built into them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fork is greased, not oiled. Fork is inspected for cracking, a weak point is below the crown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame should also be inspected for cracks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T00:09:39.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32228" CreationDate="2015-07-26T00:14:42.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you are taking about a bolt, rather than a nut ( nuts hold bolts onto things ).  Anyway, you aren't going to damage the bolt if you file it down or cut it with a metal cutting saw, it's done all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20267" LastEditorUserId="20267" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T20:42:50.840" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T20:42:50.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32240" CreationDate="2015-07-26T00:15:01.333" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikelightdatabase.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Bike Light Database&lt;/a&gt; (which started from a series of blog posts on this very Stack Exchange site). The Cygolite Hotshot and the NiteRider Solas are actually two of my top recommended lights, and I specifically recommend a setup similar to what you're describing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikelightdatabase.com/best/taillights/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recommended taillights page&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Putting the Cygolite Hotshot on your rack or stay and the NiteRider Solas on your seatpost is a perfect combo. The Solas has better side-visibility, and on the seat post it can be better seen by traffic on your sides. In flashing mode the Solas serves as the attention-grabber and the Hotshot - which has better straight-on, long-distance brightness - is on steady burn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A steady light is easier to judge distance by, so it's better to have the longer-distance light be the steady one. The more attention-grabbing flash is good to have on the wider angled light, so that you are more likely to catch the eye of drivers who are closer to you at an off-angle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image from the page showing one of the recommended configurations, with the Hotshot below on steady and the Solas above flashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tsdNHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hotshot and Solas 2W&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I don't personally believe that laser lanes are effective at increasing safety. They seem like a real gimmick to me. Given the extra cost of the Sentinel taillight, you might be better off returning it (if you can) and just getting the regular Solas taillight, and then spending the money you saved on something different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="262" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T00:15:01.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-26T00:25:05.887" Score="3" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replace my existing drop bar and levers with an upright bar and brake lever that will work with the old side pull weinmann synmetric 733 brakes, that are long reach at 65mm according to Sheldon's measurements of caliper brakes. Am I right in assuming that long reach and long pull are two different things and the upright levers I need are standard pull?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20731" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T08:42:21.773" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T14:23:47.230" Title="Suitable upright bar brake lever for old caliper brake" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32235" CreationDate="2015-07-26T02:16:32.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The photo quality could be better, but it looks to me like it is a mid-range Japanese-made frame from the mid- to late-1980s. The rear dropouts are not stamped, so it's not a low-end frame, and the single shifter boss on the downtube is for unitized Shimano or Suntour shifters, like you can see on the bikes photographed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/540967-finally-picked-em-up-1986-miyata-710-310-a.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell for certain just from what I see in the photos, but the lugs appeared to be thinned toward the ends, which is again not something you see on low-end frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ask this question in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Classic &amp;amp; Vintage sub-forum&lt;/a&gt; from which I linked the above thread, you'll likely get a quick and accurate answer. I wish I could tell you more, but I don't recognize the semi-wrapped seat stay lugwork, though I'd wager someone at BikeForums will know much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T02:23:19.183" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T02:23:19.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-26T03:14:55.337" Score="6" ViewCount="93109" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear bike wheel is wobbling back and forth when I ride. Nothing that I have done has worked and I was told that it was gonna cost $100 or more to fix. what do I do to fix it properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20735" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T03:12:07.353" Title="My rear bike wheel is wobbling back and forth when I ride" Tags="&lt;flip-flop-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32245" CreationDate="2015-07-26T04:51:57.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word, yes, you're correct in your assumption that &quot;long reach&quot; and &quot;long pull&quot; are different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 65 mm your brakes might even qualify as &quot;extra long reach.&quot; The reach of rim brakes is the distance from the mounting bolt to the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pull is the amount of cable that needs to be moved to get the brake shoes to clamp firmly against the rim. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-calipers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown / Harris Cyclery&lt;/a&gt;, all caliper brakes use standard (short) pull levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T04:51:57.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24556" CreationDate="2015-07-26T05:14:01.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel your pain…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One place that I've found that seems to stock large shoes is &lt;a href=&quot;http://biketiresdirect.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Tires Direct&lt;/a&gt;. Both Shimano and Sidi seem to make models that go up to at least size 52. If you don't want to order from the US, you could still use their listings to find some candidates and then ask your LBS what they can order for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shoes will come in two styles &quot;road&quot; and &quot;mountain.&quot; Road shoes have a flat sole that the cleat mounts onto (and thus are quite unpleasant to walk in). Mountain shoes have a recess for the clear. Road shoes often use different cleats than mountain shoes (three-bolt vs two-bolt). Cleats usually come with pedals, not with the shoes. You can also buy cleats separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So find out what kind of cleats your bike needs and then get shoes &amp;amp; cleats to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T05:14:01.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32247" CreationDate="2015-07-26T11:19:15.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's wobbling side to side, there are two problems that are possible; Your cup-and-cone bearings could be loose or your wheel could be out of true (slightly buckled.) Take your wheel off and hold the axle. Wobble it up and down a few times. There should be absolutely no movement besides the spinning it's meant to be doing. If this is wobbling, just tighten the hub cones slightly until there is no play. The rule is No play, No binding. This means having it borderline between perfect no play and perfect no sticking, otherwise it'll make your ride unpleasantly harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's wobbling at 0' and 180' points of the wheels to make it slightly oval, that is also to do with wheel being untrue and buckled, or trued incorrectly.&#xA;This job is a totally different ballgame. This usually happens when the spokes have been tightened more on one side than the other, and is a pain to fix, even for me, after repairing bikes for over three years now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst case scenario, you could be looking at missing spokes or a bent axle. Maybe even some trashed bearings, but are usually rather cheap. A good thing to do if you're wanting to learn to do hubs is look at RJTheBikeGuy on YouTube or Global Cycling Network on YouTube. Both are extremely helpful with their guides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really, really apologise if this doesn't help, and I hope you get back to riding again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20737" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T11:19:15.923" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32235" CreationDate="2015-07-26T11:24:54.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I used to own the same frame. It's (if it's similar to my frame) a Mitsubishi Shogun type frame, although most pictures are not showing with the lugs and same head-tube. Please bear in mind that frames vary between years, not just models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not my bike, but it's the same frame: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rideblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/shogunrestore06.jpg?w=640&amp;amp;h=480&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://rideblog.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/shogunrestore06.jpg?w=640&amp;amp;h=480&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps. Not saying it's this frame, but it looks very similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20737" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T11:24:54.337" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29604" CreationDate="2015-07-26T12:21:34.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now then, seeing as it's been in a garage, it's obviously collected dust. Not too far off being collecting enough to seize some bearings. First, wash the bike clean. I mean, make it very clean. You don't want to work on a dirty bike that'd make any new parts dirty, as well. warm water, washing up liquid and a sponge is great. Clean from top to bottom, not the opposite way round, as it makes two job for yourself. Once you've done that, rinse it. A pressure washer is fine in this case because we will be servicing the bearings anyway, so it doesn't matter. If you weren't going to service the bearings, don't use a pressure washer, or avoid bearings and other sensitive parts, as you could blast out all the grease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nip down to a local bike shop (LBS) and buy some good quality degreaser, Teflon grease, chain lubricants that vary in styles (wet environments, dry environments, etc) and try to get hold of some good cleaning equipment in your house or, again, shop. Tear up some small or old clothes, too, as these are something you would not be able to live without. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this every two weeks, but this is something to do every year or so. It also is suitable for much older bikes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take apart all your bearing-containing components. Yup, that's right. Headset, Bottom Bracket, Wheel Hubs, Pedal Axles, you name it. Strip it all down, degrease it, re-grease and reassemble. Tighten and adjust so there is no play, and no binding. That's the harder part done...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace all the cable inner and outers and make sure they are adjusted; PROPERLY!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check ALL OF YOUR BOLTS. If you're feeling extra-kind, take them off and re-grease them, then reassemble it all again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take out your seat post and re-grease it. You would be surprised how much this can help you out in the long run... Do the same for the &quot;steering wheel&quot; (handle bars, was just wondering if anyone gets the reference). Take them out the stem and re-grease where it would contact the stem. Again, this WILL help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, for the love of GOD, please check the wear on your brakes and tyres. I have lost a few friends due to them having literally no brake pad left and running metal on metal, and I mean, they died during crash incidents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the super-basic lubing chain, bleeding hydraulic brakes, pumping up tyres and realigning your handlebars and saddles, that's really it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're lazy, just get the bike shop to service the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&#xA;*&#xA;*&#xA;*&#xA;*&#xA;*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Check that the wheels are aligned&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Wipe off excessive grease/lubricants. This will collect dirt, turn into a grinding paste and literally sand your components down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Use good/great quality components. These may not last any longer than cheaper parts, but they reduce wear and tear on other parts, and they feel much nicer for slightly longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Dry the bike after washing it. A dry towel, a microfibre cloth, even an air compressor. Dry the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Make sure the degreaser has been cleaned off and dried. What's the point of putting grease on de-greaser? &lt;em&gt;IRONY OVERDOSE!!! IRONY OVERDOSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&#xA;*&#xA;*&#xA;*&#xA;*&#xA;*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DON'T:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Leave your tools out after you've finished. If you do, you should not be owning them. Treat them like you care about them, otherwise they won't last long. And, you'd probably lose them when you really need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Use a pressure washer on freshly-serviced bikes. Not unless you want to have to service the thing again in a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Buy parts from people on eBay with low amounts of feed back. If they have thousands of positive feedback, buy from them. If they send you something faulty and refuse to allow you to send it back, you can open a case. Almost every time, you'll get to send the product back free of charge. They won't lose an account earning thousands of pounds over a twenty pound tyre set. 5/10 times, they'll let you keep the item and refund you fully! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Don't always trust a bike mechanic at a bike shop. They told me that I had a damaged shifter which would need replacing. Took the part home, looked at the cable and saw it wasn't seated correctly. Reseated the cable and worked like new. Left negative feedback and demanded an explanation, they shut down. DON'T TRUST ALL BIKE MECHANICS UNLESS THEY CAN PROVE THE PROBLEM!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun with the bike servicing! Hopefully it'll work like new. Don't forget, if the chain and cassette is worn, replace them. Or, just replace them for the hell of it. The bike will feel much better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20737" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T12:21:34.177" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-26T13:58:31.677" Score="2" ViewCount="25695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find what kind of brand/year my bike is so I can find more information about it. It might help me determine if I should buy a new bike or just wait.&#xA;The only information I got now is this:&#xA;Epic Comp Specialized, but I don't know the year and so on&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzlAw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qzlAw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;epic comp specialized (but I still need the year and so on&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20742" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2019-06-19T17:34:20.050" LastActivityDate="2019-06-19T18:44:50.777" Title="What year etc is this Specialized Epic Comp?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;specialized-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-26T14:02:40.067" Score="0" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing to an adjustable Ritchey stem on my Trek 7.3. My bars are 25.4 and the stem I'm looking at is stated to be for 25.8-26. With this being half a millimetre bigger, will it still fit ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20743" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T14:14:02.427" Title="Stem diameter question" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32256" CreationDate="2015-07-26T14:14:02.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't seem like much, but that stem won't fit your bars without a shim. Very wise of you to ask. Nitto (and probably others) make &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb91.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shims for just this situation&lt;/a&gt;. They cost about $10 US. The old standard for road bikes was 25.4 mm (for the most part), but there seems to be a move towards 26.0 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T14:14:02.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32245" CreationDate="2015-07-26T14:23:47.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, 'reach' is how long the brake calipers are, and an indication of whether the brake pads will hit the rim properly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Pull' is basically how spongy your brake levers will feel.  If this is not matched properly to the brake calipers, you could end up with jerky brakes that are very on-or-off and liable to catapult you over the handlebars, or ones that are just too soft for the job.  Some manufacturers (modern ones?) specify which brake levers to use with their calipers, but inevitably they recommend their own ones.  This doesn't mean that others won't work well, but that might be more a matter of trial and error and reading around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm about to rebuild my front end (new brakes, new levers) and my best advice is buy from a website (or shop) that has a decent returns policy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20744" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T14:23:47.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32235" CreationDate="2015-07-26T15:58:14.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved the puzzle. It's a Caloi Triathlon. Although Caloi is a brazillian brand, they ordered 200 bikes from Suntour in 1985 for their racing teams. It came originalli with suntour shifting group, sugino cranks and nitto handlebars. It's such a rare ride over here, it's a shame the paint is no longer original and i have no access to a full range of the components, I really like to looks and weight of the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mlb-s2-p.mlstatic.com/caloi-10-triathlon-1985-excelente-estadoleia-o-anuncio-10-475401-MLB20332084459_062015-F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;It was only made in this nice blue color.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/9229/fotosnicolasoubruna003.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A better look at the lugs on the top tube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the chase, folks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20723" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T15:58:14.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32255" CreationDate="2015-07-26T18:38:23.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The nice people at specialized.com have a archive section with pictures of all the models produced since 2008.  Go to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;web site&lt;/a&gt; and scroll down to the bottom of the page. There's a Support section with Bike Archive as the last item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer shamelessly stolen from &lt;a href=&quot;http://specialized.desk.com/customer/portal/questions/808731-serial-number-lookup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T18:38:23.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31545" CreationDate="2015-07-26T19:37:34.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Kibbee has stated the IGHs do have a different OLD, although Nexus hubs can be spaced out to 135mm with spacers/ bolts/ washers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;You need to measure the Dahon's rear dropout spacing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find anything to suggest otherwise so I assume it's 132mm, in line with other commuter type bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The limiting factor is dropout spacing. The Dahon is an aluminum frame with short chainstays. Both of these essentially prevent the ability to spread the dropouts and force a wider hub in. Aluminum is brittle and not malleable like steel, it doesn't like being bent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may damage your frame and void the warranty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T19:37:34.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32228" CreationDate="2015-07-26T21:40:57.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To shorten a bolt, get two nuts with the matching thread.  Screw them onto the bolt and &quot;lock&quot; them together (tightened against each other) such that the nut surface farthest from the head lines up with the place where you want to cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the bolt in a vice (taking care to not mash the threads) and use a fine-toothed hacksaw or other cutting device to cut the bolt off flush with the nut surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then unscrew the nuts and dress up the bolt threads with a fine triangular file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If instead&lt;/strong&gt; you want to thin out a nut, again fasten two nuts to a matching bolt and lock together.  Have the nut face you want to cut away facing &quot;out&quot;, and have the nut screwed onto the bolt to the point that the bolt end is nearly flush with that face of the nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use some sort of grinder to grind away the desired amount of the nut.  Then &quot;unlock&quot; the two nuts and screw them farther onto the bolt (to clear the threads), then off.  Work a fresh bolt through the nut several times from both directions to assure the threads are clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T01:00:39.787" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T01:00:39.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32278" CreationDate="2015-07-26T21:54:15.890" Score="3" ViewCount="2378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in the mountains of Vermont and bike 3 seasons a year on my trusty cyclocross bike. This year, I'd like to commute year round, through winter. My commute involves some steep, 10-18% climbs on dirt, gravel, and pavement with icy and/or unplowed snow. I've been debating about trying 2 different winter commuting setups:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Winterize my current cyclocross bike. This option has the obvious advantage in that it's cheap, since I already own the bike. I was thinking about swapping out my Schwalbe Racing Ralphs (700×33c) and going with the widest possible tires I can fit, probably 700x40 with studs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy a fat bike. I've seen a lot of people talking about how much fun a fat bike is in the winter and how good they are for commuting. My main concern is the weight and climbing ability of these monsters on steep winter ascents/descents. Does this seem like a good option for my commute? I like this option because I could keep cycling through the winter, but this also involves buying a whole new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any opinions/experience is much appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;More specifics&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My commute is 7 miles with ~2300 feet of elevation change. There are two short, but steep climbs with rolling hills interspersed throughout the rest of the ride. I'm mostly worried about the steep morning descents in bad weather and trying decide which bike option would give me the stability I need. Hauling a heavy fat bike up the hills is less of a concern, but climbing weight is still important to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20750" LastEditorUserId="20750" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T14:31:03.013" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T16:28:54.327" Title="Bike options for winter commuting in the mountains" Tags="&lt;winter&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;fatbike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6843" CreationDate="2015-07-26T22:26:49.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I HIGHLY doubt this, but it could be possible that you are running a compact chainring set-up on cranks originally set up for triple chain-rings. I derped around with this before, and noticed that the chain would slip from the big-ring into a void between the two chain-rings and make you spin endlessly, creating a horrifically loud and embarrassing grinding noise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably 100% not this, but for other people with this same problem, check this. Make sure the gap is not more than or equal to the chain, otherwise you could have a triple crank with a double chain-ring set-up x3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AGAIN, highly unlikely. Not joking, this is probably impossible for you given what you said, but it's something possible for others, plus quite amusing for some readers to hear about a few derps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20737" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T22:26:49.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32188" CreationDate="2015-07-26T22:52:08.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, and riding with it locked is quite beneficial in certain factors of riding, and if you have a locking suspension, you are very lucky compared to me, who has a bike without it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike will not break from simply having your suspension locked; It still absorbs impact, just in extremely minute amounts. Seeing as many web sites have covered this, I'd thought I may as well throw some info out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine the fact that I have 22mm tyres on my road bike; you should have about an inch and a half. Not much of a difference? In terms of absorption, I can swap my tyres for 25mm and feel a huge difference in comfort and less shock through the frame. If you have an inch and a half or even just an inch, you should be more than perfectly fine, no matter what terrain. I mean, come on, I ride a road bike off-road on bumpy-ass terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20737" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T22:52:08.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32268" CreationDate="2015-07-26T23:47:02.080" Score="8" ViewCount="41714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a second hand cyclocross bike (running Shimano 105) and I ... love it. I've been doing some short commuting on it as well, but the nobbled tires are copping a pounding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got a spare set of 11 speed wheels kicking around home that came with my road bike that I upgraded. My question is, I want to put some wide road tires on the 11 speed wheels and keep the CX tires on the 10 speed wheels and just swap the wheels in and out depending on what I feel like doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I'd prefer not to have to tune the gears every time that I swap the wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried yet because I don't have a spare 10 speed cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best minimum fuss solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5745" LastEditorUserId="19106" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T19:46:51.847" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T04:50:46.900" Title="Can I run a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed wheel, but also keep running 10 speed on a 10 speed wheel?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32267" CreationDate="2015-07-27T00:09:44.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use spacers on the 11 speed wheel to put a 10 speed cassette on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See your hub manufacturer's page for details, but its normally a 1.8(5) mm spacer (which comes with the hub, but you can buy separately) and a 1mm spacer (sometimes; which you'll get with the cassette). See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_Spacers_2013_3978.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for a table of some common cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T00:09:44.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32267" CreationDate="2015-07-27T00:13:15.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I still live in a 6-speed world, but…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it would work. Do you have the tools to take the 10-speed cassette off and try it on the 11-speed wheel? The easiest thing might be just to try it. The place where you may run into problems swapping the wheels is with the placement of the cassette. If both cassettes are in the same location (the small and large cogs are in the same position relative to the centerline of the bike) then both should line up in the same way with the derailer and things should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory it seems possible that with different hubs you might end up with the cassettes in slightly different locations and the shifting wouldn't be spot on. If that happens you could (in theory) fix it by adding spacers of the right thickness to adjust the position of one of the cassettes. This might be a bit dicey if the 10-speed is the one that needs to move, but I don't think it would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need a spacer behind the cassette (on the side towards the spokes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T21:43:04.057" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T21:43:04.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30817" CreationDate="2015-07-27T07:39:52.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use a steel spring like the ones in old bedframes or around trampolins; it should be possible to get one from the nearest scrapyard or recycling centre. My trailer has such a spring by design and it works just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the forces on the coupling are not enormous. The largest forces happen when you brake, but these are compression forces and shouldn't tear it apart. The pulling forces are normally not that large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also add a safety rope from the trailer to the bike. Fix it to the bolt on the right side of your photo, and tie the other end to the bike frame, with just enough slack so that it doesn't stretch when the trailer moves in all directions and doesn't get caught in the wheel. If the coupling fails for whatever reason, then your trailer doesn't get out of control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T07:39:52.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32273" CreationDate="2015-07-27T09:59:48.140" Score="3" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a road bike but I have never had one. I have a limited budget and want to try triathlons. The good brands old bikes are really expensive. Even for a 25 years old bike I have to spend at least 450 Euros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surfing in the net, I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00C1BS882/ref=s9_simh_gw_p200_d2_i2?pf_rd_m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&amp;amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-2&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=1QDR4GBZBSB1ADRHB446&amp;amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=585296387&amp;amp;pf_rd_i=desktop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this bike on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;, which is in my price range. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that when I have asked &quot;experts&quot; they told me that you cannot buy a decent bike for that price, and this isnt a good bike. Can anyone give an advice? Can this bike be good or is the price determinant for a good quality bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19236" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T11:28:54.420" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T12:21:38.933" Title="Does price have a huge impact on the quality of road bikes?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32271" CreationDate="2015-07-27T12:23:25.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Search some more for secondhand bikes. EUR 300,- should get you a nice enough used bike from a couple of years back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tip I was given when searching for my first bike was to search the bike or racing bike category on ebay and similar sites for &quot;ultegra&quot; or the name of some other sufficiently high-end groupset rather than the brand. This filters out a lot of bad bikes, and a high quality groupset is very desirable in a secondhand bike because it is expensive to replace yet wears out very quickly (unlike (most) frames that are also expensive to replace but don't wear out so much). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.marktplaats.nl/z/fietsen-en-brommers/fietsen-racefietsen/ultegra-zo-goed-als-nieuw-gebruikt.html?query=ultegra&amp;amp;categoryId=464&amp;amp;priceFrom=200%2C00&amp;amp;priceTo=450%2C00&amp;amp;attributes=S%2C31&amp;amp;attributes=S%2C32&amp;amp;startDateFrom=always&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This search&lt;/a&gt; on the dutch e-bay equivalent gets you a few good options in your price range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your question, I agree with Daniel R Hicks' comment that beyond about 1000-1200 euro's you are mostly paying for weight reduction (which might even impact durability) rather than 'just' for quality. I also agree with your &quot;experts&quot;, you cannot buy even a descent new bike for that price, secondhand is a whole different story however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T12:21:38.933" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T12:21:38.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-27T13:27:42.097" Score="0" ViewCount="10937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mountain bike and it was working well.then I started to pedal and the back wheel isn't moving.could someone tell me what it could be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20759" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T18:18:04.770" Title="my bike pedals but the back tire will not move" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32274" CreationDate="2015-07-27T13:30:42.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that the hub's freewheel mechanism has broken. Maybe it's fixable with some spare parts or you may need a new freewheel hub body or a new hub altogether. Your LBS will be able to assess the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.gr/search?q=mtb+freewheel+hub+body&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.gr/search?q=mtb+freewheel+hub+body&amp;amp;tbm=isch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T13:30:42.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30817" CreationDate="2015-07-27T13:46:13.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can replace it.  Although you might have to goto another brands system, and a little hacking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, every trailer I have I use the Burley Flex Connector system (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001GSQXUG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Burley-Design-Connector-Round-Black/dp/B001GSQXUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1438004399&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=burley+flex+connector&lt;/a&gt;).  What ever you go with though you may have to get a few other parts for it to all work.  In the Burley case, the hitch for your bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00VSOQN8K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Burley-Design-Forged-Standard-Trailer/dp/B00VSOQN8K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1438004399&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=burley+flex+connector&lt;/a&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the similar piece for the Burley flex connector system, and how it works on my bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ssmVw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ssmVw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;flex connector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HRna9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HRna9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flex connector at work&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T13:57:57.647" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T13:57:57.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32263" CreationDate="2015-07-27T14:53:00.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much snow are we talking about? I’ve commuted through the winter on a cyclocross and had very little problems. The roads here (Austria) are usually cleared quite well, so I’ve never had deep snow. For black ice I used studded tires (Nokian Hakka W106) which — due to their narrowness (35mm) — also work quite well on slush. I’ve had the most difficulties with packed ruts which either prevent you from turning or break away on the borders (if the snow and ruts are still relatively new and not frozen over).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For offroad usage with deep snow a fat bike is probably better. Riding a cyclocross on paths in conditions like &lt;a href=&quot;http://abload.de/img/p1000287v6uu8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; (notice that the bike is standing without any support because the snow is so viscous) is very hard and exhausting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have enough gears, riding with studded tires and/or through snow is hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastEditorUserId="19529" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T15:00:09.390" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T15:00:09.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32263" CreationDate="2015-07-27T16:28:54.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the things I believe you should be considering when making the decision.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fat bikes climb just fine.  Yes, a road bike will climb a paved hill more efficiently than a mountain bike under the same conditions.  But, a mountain bike will also climb a muddy single track that a road bike would simply fail to move at all on.  Efficiency and utility are trade offs in this respect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cyclocross bike will be more efficient in many conditions.  However, at some point your cross bike will become unrideable (too much/deep/wet snow) and a fat bike will plod on.  Depending on your weather and commitment to riding, a couple days a year where you shelve your cross bike and take other transportation may be acceptable for you.  However, if you want to make sure you can ride as often as possible, a fat bike will offer you more commuting days.  A fat bike also offers an advantage in this area as far as not finding out halfway into your commute that you are going to be pushing your cross bike the last 3 miles.  It's slower, but a bit more honey badger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as safety, I'd much prefer to descend with ANY snow on a fat bike than a cross bike.  Thinner tires may cut through snow for traction, but when descending that sinking has a tendency to yank the front wheel all over the place.  A wider front tire will float and may have a tendency to wash, but not dig and turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fat bike would open up new options to you for winter trail riding.  A cross bike just doesn't even enter into this equation.  However, if you aren't into trail riding, it isn't really an advantage to you.  Personally I enjoy winter trail riding above all other forms of riding and I live in the right place for it, so fat bikes are THE bike for me.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T16:28:54.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-27T16:40:36.620" Score="5" ViewCount="18483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes find the need to leave my bike on my bike rack while I'm away from my car.  It's a simple strapped-on rack, so locking the bike to the rack doesn't help.  (My car doesn't have a towing hitch.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to secure the bike to the car in a way that will deter theft? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19683" LastEditorUserId="19683" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T18:10:16.917" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T19:44:25.180" Title="Securing a bike on a car rack against theft" Tags="&lt;security&gt;&lt;car-rack&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-07-30T23:30:33.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32279" CreationDate="2015-07-27T19:42:58.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The Simplest Option - Passive Lock Strap&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the simplest and easiest way to do this is to use a &quot;trunk lock strap&quot; or &quot;passive lock strap&quot;. Searching in Google for either of those phases should turn up suitable products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea with these is that they are a flexible cable that you loop around your bike and then close a thicker stubbed end inside your vehicle either in your trunk if you use a rear rack, or inside a passenger door if you use a roof rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should note that no product is completely theft-proof, and you will ideally want to use more than one locking/security mechanism. At a minimum, if leaving the bike on the rack, I would remove the front tire and put it in the car as well as using this strap. That way they can't just cut the strap and ride away with the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;More Complicated - Tow Loop&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more complicated and likely far more expensive option is to look into the installation of an external Tow Loop. Many modern cars that are not equipped with a towing package, still have some kind of loop or bracket either directly under the bumper, or beneath some removable cover in the bumper. You can have an externally accessible tow loop retrofitted to the car and then you could lock the bike with a cable through that loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google your vehicle make and model and add the words &quot;tow hooks&quot; or &quot;tow points&quot; for ideas, or talk to a qualified auto mechanic/dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T19:42:58.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32279" CreationDate="2015-07-27T19:44:25.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cars have a tow loop.  It is pretty strong as it is built to tow the car.  Loop a cable around the bikes and lock it to the tow loop.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjZim.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjZim.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T19:44:25.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5041" CreationDate="2015-07-27T21:24:36.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For most of the past 40 years the Tour has ended with what is essentially a parade along the Champs Elysees (1989 being a big exception!) The modern tour is largely determined by climbing/time trials and with the final day being largely flat there simply isn't a good opportunity for a 2nd place rider to take back enough time. This is especially true in the past ~25 years as race radios have made it easier for riders to stay informed of what's happening on the course. It could in theory happen but it's highly unlikely. It would be equal to a team scoring multiple touchdowns in the last 30 seconds of the Super Bowl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T21:24:36.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T02:09:16.973" Score="0" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about trying the famous Osymetric chainrings, and I would like to use it with a power2max Classic power meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just want to be sure that there are compatible? It's very difficult to have answers in bike shops because Osymetric chainrings are not that famous here (Montreal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10716" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T03:28:38.633" Title="Are Osymetric chainring and power2max Classic power meter compatible?" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32285" CreationDate="2015-07-28T02:27:16.937" Score="1" ViewCount="4261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a 2013 Giant Escape 0 Hybrid with a stock 10speed Shimano Deore rear derailleur.  My wife was riding the bike the other day, and somehow managed to shift in such a way that it popped the chain off the rear cassette and jammed in between the sprockets and the spoke protector.  Luckily no damage was done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After putting the chain back on, I put the bike up on a stand to check/tweak the derailleur alignment.  The small sprocket and the large sprocket are properly aligned.  I can shift up and down with almost no problems; I seem to skip the third gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I take the rear wheel off and click the derailleur, I only count 8 clicks; not 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what that means.  Nor am I sure how my derailleur can be properly aligned on the smallest and largest cogs, hit all the shifts except for one, and yet miss an index.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an alignment issue?  Is there a problem with my shifter?  Is my derailleur whacked out of position?  How/why could I be &quot;missing&quot; an index?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20767" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-02-02T10:05:57.063" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T10:05:57.063" Title="10 speed cassette/derailleur, but only getting 8 clicks?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;alignment&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32284" CreationDate="2015-07-28T03:01:23.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are skipping gears, I suggest the cable tension need to be reset. Shift to the smallest cog, undo the bolt fastening the derailleur cable and then refasten, ensuring there is just enough tension to hold the cable tight. You should then be able to accurately shift up one gear at a time and go through all 9 clicks. It may take a few attempt to get right, and you should test it with different front gears selected. Also check for worn cable or housings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like you need to set the limit adjuster also, there are two small Philips head screws that do this. They prevent the derailleur shifting past the largest and smallest sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T03:01:23.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32283" CreationDate="2015-07-28T03:28:38.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.power2max.de/europe/en/support/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Power2Max&lt;/a&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Changing cranks or chain rings does not affect calibration. You can also use oval chain rings (e.g., Rotor Q-Rings, Osymetric, etc). Please note: compact (110 mm) aero chain rings (such as Rotor aero Q Rings) are not compatible with power2max Classic, but are compatible with Type S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, does it really matter all that much if they don't? &lt;a href=&quot;http://support.stagescycling.com/support/solutions/articles/1000158537-can-i-use-the-stages-power-meter-with-oval-or-osymetric-chain-rings-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stages&lt;/a&gt; reckon there's a +4-5% error when using them on their power meters, but recommend you just adjust your threshold accordingly. Once that's done you can carry on as normal, the absolute numbers aren't all that important, the zones you define around them are what matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T03:28:38.633" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T06:33:01.847" Score="1" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone know of a comfortable seat that is compatible with Giant Bikes?  I took my seatpost to walmart to try and fit the seatpost with the bell gel seatpost with shock absorbers, Had high hopes for this one but the two rails did not line up with the bracket on my bike.  Trying to cut down on the impact from bumpy roads..and I already have biking underwear.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20771" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T15:51:29.207" Title="Giant Road Bicycle, Comfortable Seat" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T09:08:23.710" Score="2" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somehow the plastic part on the side/front of the derailleur is lost. Now I can't shift properly because the chain drops to the outside on an up shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plastic part is visible in this image. Its the black thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/csjTh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/csjTh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a spare part available or is this a warranty case?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T23:19:05.947" Title="Campagnolo Athena - Lost plastic part on front derailleur. Now the chain is droping on upshifting" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32296" CreationDate="2015-07-28T12:29:06.230" Score="1" ViewCount="2919" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've never changed a chainring before. But the first step is finding the right one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tweekscycles.com/bikes/hybrids-city-bikes/cube-hyde-sl-city-bike-2012&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cube Hyde SL 2012&lt;/a&gt; . It describes the crankset as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano Deore XT FC-M785 Hollowtech II 42x26T., 175mm, integrated BB&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By which I assume the 42 refers to the number of teeth on the outer ring - which is the one I need to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest thing I can find is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xt-fcm780-10-speed-triple-chainrings/rp-prod116089&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; (M780):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a) it suggests it's a triple chainring, and b) in the Q&amp;amp;A on that site someone has asked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;I'd like to swap out the 40t large ring on my Shimano XT M785 10&#xA;  Speed Double Chainset with this 42t ring, would that work?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The chainrings for the M785 crankset have a specific design and&#xA;  unfortunately are not listed as having a compatible interchangeable&#xA;  option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So.. err.. what now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20774" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T20:21:17.043" Title="Which chainring? Shimano M785" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32294" CreationDate="2015-07-28T12:46:08.380" Score="2" ViewCount="1748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/new.escape.1/22033/83615/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giant Escape 1 (2016)&lt;/a&gt; which I use for commuting to work and back. It is fitted with Altus level &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/new.escape.1/22033/83615/#specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;kit&quot;&gt;kit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was considering taking my bike on holiday with me to get in some longer rides, perhaps some parts of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.transpenninetrail.org.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Trans Pennine Trail&quot;&gt;Trans Pennine Trail&lt;/a&gt;. Nothing too excessive, perhaps 50 to 60 miles a day, which I know is nothing to many riders, but to me it's a step up from my 8 mile commute. The trail is mostly off-road, dirt track, but nothing too rough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be worth my while in the long run considering upgrading my components to say Deore level? And if so, in which order for &quot;most bang for my buck&quot;? My current setup has Tektro brakes, so I'm thinking that might be a good place to start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts most welcome&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20577" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T13:55:03.763" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T18:38:44.943" Title="Which component upgrades for longer rides" Tags="&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;&lt;advice&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32292" CreationDate="2015-07-28T12:58:49.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the best bang for the buck to the worst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clipless pedals. Something simple like Shimano SPD. You can even have a dual mode pedal like Shimano A-530.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good quality lighter or stronger tires (depending on what kind of road you intend to ride). It changes the bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher quality wheels. Again, lighter rims for acceleration/climbing and heavier for flat terrain with no stop where you can benefit from the inertia.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Comfortable saddle if the current one is painful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike fit in a bike shop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgrading brakes and shifting system does not provide any performance apart from the weight and if you have trouble shifting the speeds or braking, which can be fixed by having your bike tuned up in a shop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But given the bike is about 650$, I would limit any too costly non-transferable upgrades to another bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7990" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T12:58:49.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32297" CreationDate="2015-07-28T13:14:33.410" Score="8" ViewCount="1298" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was in college I was on the club cycling team and it was fun, I went to a good share of races, was pretty involved with the team, etc.  Now I'm out of college and it's a few years later...is it acceptable for me to wear my old university team kits when I'm out riding casually on my own or with a few friends (&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; at events)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19301" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T13:24:34.277" Title="Is it acceptable to wear kit from old team?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32291" CreationDate="2015-07-28T13:16:33.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that the 42x26 is telling you that the large ring has 42 teeth (and the small 26).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a search on &quot;M785 replacement chainring&quot; and found a number of sources (but nothing a Chain Reaction). Looking at what I found it appears that the options for the large ring are 38 and 40 teeth. So…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either Shimano has changed the specs on the M785 and the 42 tooth ring is no longer available, or there is s typo on the Cube site. I'd say it's worth looking at your bike to see if the tooth count is stamped on the chainring or, failing that, count the teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a 42 tooth ring (and you want the higher gears) it might be worth going to your LBS to see if they can order the 42 tooth ring, or else look for NOS (new old stock) rings on places like Ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T13:16:33.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32295" CreationDate="2015-07-28T13:24:34.277" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess it's a matter of opinion, and cyclists have a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, but personally I would go for it. You were actually on the team after all. I think that the rule #17 from the above link applies here. Personally, I'd rather wear old kit from a team I was personally on than wear kit from a pro team that I have no affiliation with, or even non-pro-kit with logos plastered all over it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might even be a great way to start up a conversation with people who recognize the kit, either riders who are currently on the team or even just people who went to that school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T13:24:34.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32292" CreationDate="2015-07-28T13:29:14.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your goal is comfort over speed, I would emphasize in three upgrades which don't break your bank:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a comfortable saddle. Go to your LBS and ask their opinions. A lot of people suggest leather saddles, like Brooks or Selle Anatomica. A good saddle is expensive, but it is a worth upgrade and you will be surprised how big the difference is between a cheap saddle and a good one. If you are on a tight budget, a padded short is a cheaper option.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you use a bike rack and panniers? for a long ride especially on hot weather, a set of pannier is better than a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think your current tires are already pretty good but it might be worth a try to have wider and fatter tires for more comfortable rides. I assume your current tires are 32mm wide, so upgrade to 35mm tires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T16:37:57.020" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T16:37:57.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32292" CreationDate="2015-07-28T13:33:27.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of good advice in Vincent's answer. I'd reprioritize a bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the bike is fitting you well – on the weekend ride maybe 16 or 20 miles in one go. See how you feel, especially note where you notice the extra distance. The consult with your LBS about how to improve your comfort on the bike – this will pay off on all of your rides.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you experiments with fit point towards the saddle, get a more comfortable one – &lt;strong&gt;as soon as possible&lt;/strong&gt; – a good saddle is a revelation and many bike shops (in the US at least) will allow you to return a saddle that isn't comfortable. Give yourself some time with this one before your holiday if you can. Don't buy a new saddle until you are sure that fit is right. If you do get a new saddle, keep the old one in case you decide to sell your bike. Good saddles aren't cheap, but you can &quot;take them with you.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'd seek the advice of others who've ridden that particular route to find out if different tires are in order. If you're on dirt, it might make sense to get some tires with a bit more tread to them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pedals are also worth considering, but you'll get a debate going – there are reasonable people on both sides of the fence. But if you go with clipless pedals that also means shoes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think at that point, I'd stop. Wheels and tires are not bad ideas, but I think you'd be better off knowing more about your riding preferences before making that big an investment (beyond making sure that your tires are appropriate for the ride).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing I'd suggest is to take a look at Grant Peterson's book &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bo17.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Just Ride&lt;/a&gt; – he thinks very clearly about what makes a good bike for the non-racer and how to ride for the sheer joy of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't describe how you'll be traveling on this holiday (e.g., staying someplace and doing day rides, or making a cross country tour of it), but if you're traveling any distance with gear I'd put a good rack and panniers at the very top of the list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T13:49:04.867" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T13:49:04.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32301" CreationDate="2015-07-28T14:00:21.343" Score="8" ViewCount="74943" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cyclocross bike with &lt;strong&gt;Alex ATD 470 Disc rim&lt;/strong&gt; with TCS (Tubeless Compatible System) currently mounted with Vittoria, Cross XN, &lt;strong&gt;700 x 32c&lt;/strong&gt; tires. However tires are a bit worn out and I want to be driving a bit off road during the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is whether the 700x32 tires would be interchangeable with 700x35 for winter and with 700x28 for summer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance. I understand that technically this should be possible, but whether it is okey to do that, since I believe that in certain occasion I would have to overinflate tire ( 700x28 ), right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13357" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T01:02:17.800" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T01:02:40.670" Title="Are 700 x 28 , 700 x 32 and 700 x 35 tires interchangeable?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32300" CreationDate="2015-07-28T14:55:46.257" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can (theoretically) mount any 700x(something) tire on any 700c  (ISO 622) rim. However, you need to make sure the frame (and brakes if rim brakes are used) can clear the tire without rubbing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You generally want to match the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rim width to the tire&lt;/a&gt; though -- too narrow or too wide of a tire on a rim can lead to tire/rim damage or bad handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, the rim width is 17 mm and the chart linked above says 25-37 should all be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for overinflating, why would you overinflate? You will use a higher pressure with a narrower tire, but overinflating means putting too much air in. And this can be bad for the rim. The right tire pressure is not whats written on the sidewall of the tire -- in fact, you'll almost never use that much pressure. We have many questions on tire pressure setup, so I encourage you to use the search feature to look at some of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2017-10-05T01:02:40.670" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T01:02:40.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32228" CreationDate="2015-07-28T14:57:49.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to punt and just have the bike shop grind down the nut. The head mechanic at the local shop sounds confident that he can grind down the nut to fit without over-heating it (and making it brittle etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually looked at another, older Bianchi frame I have and I see that the rear caliper nut has been ground down on that bike too! Perhaps this is more common than I thought. Sure doesn't seem like good engineering though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20068" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T14:57:49.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25965" CreationDate="2015-07-28T15:12:21.763" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Security cameras have a standard called &quot;pixels per foot&quot; (ppf).  This means that at a certain distance, an object 1 foot across (about the size of a US license plate) will have a certain number of pixels.  As the object moves further away, the number of pixels per foot decreases.  As the object moves closer, the number of pixels per foot increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the correct way to measure whether you can read license plates or not, because it takes the camera lens field-of-view into account.  This is particularly important when dealing with the GoPro since it has a maximum field-of-view of 170 degrees!  This means its pixels are spread over a much larger area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conveniently, security cameras makers also have a standard for reading license plates of 40-45 pixels per foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a GoPro recording at 1920x1080 (aka 1080p) @ 170 degrees. Presumably you'd use this if mounted to the bike; the wider angle simply records more.  Your resolution will drop to 45 ppf at 14.4 feet away.  That is, beyond 14.4 feet away, it will get harder and harder to read license plates clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more thorough listing of a few different cameras:&#xA; - GoPro 1920x1080 @ 170 degrees; 14.4 ft &#xA; - GoPro 1920x1080 @ 127 degrees; 19.2 ft &#xA; - GoPro 1920x1080 @ 90 degrees; 27.2 ft&#xA; - GoPro 4k 3840x2160 @ 170 degrees; 28.8 ft&#xA; - GoPro 4k 3840x2160 @ 127 degrees; 38.5 ft&#xA; - GoPro 4k 3840x2160 @ 90 degrees; 54.3 ft&#xA; - Novatek NT96650 G1W 1920x1080 @ 120 degrees; 20.4 ft&#xA; - Mobius ActionCam 1920x1080 @ 116 degrees; 21.1 ft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last two were selected because they were reviewed by Popular Mechanics as &lt;em&gt;car&lt;/em&gt; dash cams, not because of their suitability for use on a bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More math! (oh noes!) A car travelling at 30 mph (relativistic) is travelling at 44 ft per second.  That is, a car approaching you at 44 ft per second across a 30 ft distance (picked at random) will take 0.68 seconds to reach you.  At 30 frames per second, that means you can record 20.5 frames.  The more frames you get, the more likely that you get a clear one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after laying all that math out, I'm not sure that 40 ppf is the minimum.  Digital Image Forensics can recover an amazing amount of detail out of a blurry image, particularly because license plates are high contrast.  Judge for yourself by searching for &quot;digital forensics license plate&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also not sure that 30 mph is a reasonable target to aim for; it seems a bit fast in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend trying it out for yourself.  Get a tape measure, borrow a camera, and record your license plate in 5 ft increments, and judge for yourself what seems like a effective distance is.  Take angle into account; not everyone is going to be approaching the camera straight on; they could be approaching you from a cross street, so you might be viewing it at 45 degrees or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20777" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T15:12:21.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32300" CreationDate="2015-07-28T15:39:24.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you running the wheels as tubeless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are you'll want to be sure that the rims and tires are rated for sufficient pressure. Last time I was looking at tubeless (early-2015) I wasn't having much luck finding road rims and tires. I think that the issue was the pressures that need to be run to support the narrower tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you're running tubes, then @Batman pretty much said it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T15:39:24.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32315" CreationDate="2015-07-28T15:53:59.960" Score="2" ViewCount="3739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Dahon Vitesse D8 two years ago and it's lasted extremely well so far. Recently, the rear tire got a puncture and as my tires both looked pretty worn, I thought it might be time to look into getting replacements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking to get some tyres for cycling on roads and occasionally on gravel/canal paths. but I'm now a bit overwhelmed with the amount of tyres available. Could anyone suggest what I should be looking for in a tyre? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20775" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T00:18:15.787" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T00:18:15.787" Title="Need to replace tire on Dahon folding bike" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32290" CreationDate="2015-07-28T16:48:05.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spare part code is 5-FD-RE116 for double or FD-AT016 for triple and it's available from several online shops. LBSes specializing in road bikes should have it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the spare parts catalogue from Campagnolo: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_250_Catalogue_spare%20parts_tools_Campagnolo_2015_part_A.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_250_Catalogue_spare%20parts_tools_Campagnolo_2015_part_A.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T16:48:05.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32292" CreationDate="2015-07-28T17:08:37.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The top four changes you could make that will impact comfort are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clipless pedals/shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handlebars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires will change the ride more than anything else, including changing the actual frame of the bike. The stock tires on your bike are very durable but also very stiff and harsh riding. They feature thick casings and steel beads to hold the tire on the wheel. Nicer tires have more supple casings and lighter Kevlar beads (often referred to as &quot;folding tires&quot; because the tire can be folded flat, unlike ones with steel beads). High end tires such as Grand Bois, Schwalbe, Panaracer, Pacenti or Compass have very supple casings which turn results in a much smoother ride. Your bike can take just about any 700c tire. I'd strongly suggest something in the 30-38mm wide range. This will give you plenty of cushion but still be light enough that you won't feel like you're riding a tractor. Expect to spend $70-120 for a set of nice tires. The Panaracer Pasela Tour Guard in 35mm width is readily available and can be had for ~$40/each and is a nice mix of durability, lightweight, price and comfort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clipless pedals and shoes are going to be more comfortable and safer. Cycling shoes are like any other pair of shoes: what works for one person may not work for another. Try on several pairs. Like good running shoes, they should be snug but not tight. One tip (and this applies to all shoes): don't try them on in the morning. Your feet swell as the day goes by, always best to try shoes on at the end of the day. As for pedals there are numerous clipless pedal systems. Some people swear by one brand over others. I've ridden several brands and worked on pretty much all of them. They're all largely variations on the same theme, I wouldn't worry too much about one brand over another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saddles are also highly personal and costs can be as little as $20 or as high as $300+. I've worked with World Champion professional racers who are perfectly fine with riding cheap $20 saddles and I also know casual cyclists who absolutely swear by their expensive Brooks/Berthoud/Selle Italia/etc. Price really is no indicator of comfort. Replacing saddles is a pretty simple process and a good shop will take the time to let you test ride several different models. Do ask what their return policy is on saddles. A saddle which might feel fine on a short ride could become unbearable after a couple of hours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handlebars are a tougher one to fix. Most road bikes have drop handlebars which offer more hand positions and are more ergonomic. However, you really can't easily swap out handlebars as this requires new shifters and brake levers and that gets quite expensive. A simpler, less expensive solution are bar ends (example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rei.com/product/837362/profile-boxer-bar-ends-silver&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rei.com/product/837362/profile-boxer-bar-ends-silver&lt;/a&gt;). These bolt to the end of the handlebar and help put your wrists in a more ergonomic position and provide you with an additional position to put your hands. You could also swap out the straight bars for a set with more hand positions and more swept back hand positions. You can see several examples at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.somafab.com/parts/handlebar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.somafab.com/parts/handlebar&lt;/a&gt; You will probably want to work with a shop on this as you may also need a different length stem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond this you start getting into things like replacing wheels which will cost a lot of money and result in very minimal returns. Ditto for brakes and shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T17:08:37.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32292" CreationDate="2015-07-28T18:38:44.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The jump from an 8 mile ride to 50 miles is quite a bit.  I think rather than spending money on the bike, you first need to spend money on clothing and accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Padded bicycle shorts will make you more comfortable on these longer rides, as will cycling gloves, and a cycling jersey.  Additionally, the jersey has pockets to carry food, phone, and small tools.  Also, wicking socks to keep your feet dry during the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cycling specific shoes, and possibly clipless pedals will increase your efficiency, speed, and comfort on a long ride.  Cycling shoes have a stiff sole, so your feet don't get hot spots from the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spending money on components, while tempting, will not provide measurable benefits, unless you are racing for prize money...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1648" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T18:38:44.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31733" CreationDate="2015-07-28T19:28:32.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Schwinn closed the Chicago plant in 1983 shortly after opening a plant in Greenville MS. They were also importing many bikes at that time. Your '85 Traveler was built in Greenville MS. The headbadge still read &quot;Chicago&quot; because Schwinn's corporate offices remained there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The serial number SC5xxxxx indicates the frame was built in March (C) of '85 (5), and the 1025 headbadge number indicates the bike was built on the 102nd day of '85, or Friday April 12th, 1985: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www-air.larc.nasa.gov/cgi-bin/jday?month=3&amp;amp;day=11&amp;amp;year=1985&amp;amp;Show_Calendar=Show_Calendar&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www-air.larc.nasa.gov/cgi-bin/jday?month=3&amp;amp;day=11&amp;amp;year=1985&amp;amp;Show_Calendar=Show_Calendar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This of course means your bike is an '85 model as depicted in the catalog here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecatalogs.org/SCHWINN/1985/LightWeight/Traveler.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://bikecatalogs.org/SCHWINN/1985/LightWeight/Traveler.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20781" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T19:28:32.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4183" CreationDate="2015-07-28T20:11:21.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I start by breaking down the bike completely, brake components and all. I strip off all old paint and decals and sand the frame with 220 grit paper then smooth it over with steel wool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean the frame with engine de-greaser let sit for a day. Tape off all undesired openings: Head Tube Bottom Bracket seat post, and dropouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I apply one thin coat of Rust-Oleum primer, let it sit a few hours, apply two more. After the third coat of primer wet sand your primed frame and clean all residue with a damp white paper towel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have removed all dust and residue paint your color paint. Try to make as many full passes as possible not concentrating too long in any areas. I like to wait a full day with color paint coats to allow it to fully dry. Repeat this step two more times, and wet sand after the second and third coats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean frame again with damp wet paper towel then apply three coats of clear, wet sanding after the second and third coat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean off with a damp paper towel and then use an automotive compound wax to get the shine you desire. You may need to wax it twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assemble the bike back together then use a showroom shine spray applied to a micro fiber towel and rub down the frame to remove any hand smudges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20782" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T23:04:08.370" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T23:04:08.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32291" CreationDate="2015-07-28T20:21:17.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, no you can't use a triple chainring on a double crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Second I'd count the number of teeth on the actual chain ring.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recall, and was unable to find any evidence of, a 42T XT chainring. So would question if it was a printing mistake. It is possible it was made available as OEM only, but I would have thought it would be given a different product code with the XT branding removed which Shimano did for a number of cranksets a few years back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev/EV-FC-M785-3165A.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FC M785&lt;/a&gt; came in 3 configurations (but more may have been possible as an OEM product).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;38-24&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;38-26&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40-28&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 42T was available for the FC M780 triple chain ring but not in the double. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When selecting Shimano chainrings there are a few things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of teeth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BCD -Bolt Circle Diameter is the diameter of the circle that goes through the center of all of the bolts on your chainring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shifting combination code (not sure of the proper name) - this is AM/AJ/AK for the FC M785 and is used to match rings to ensure ramps and pins align for shifting, not a deal breaker but ideal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is for a triple, double or single crankset - this will impact the offset and profile of the chainring, to make sure it aligns and fits with the crank, other rings and chainline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T20:21:17.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32314" CreationDate="2015-07-28T21:28:12.133" Score="8" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/road_bikes/mirage_s.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Motobecane Mirage S&lt;/a&gt; recently from bikesdirect.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the following advice from a bikes forum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Plan on changing the seat, pedals, and possibly the tires. The seat&#xA;  will make your butt feel and look like a loose meat sandwich, which&#xA;  will be the outcome on just about any road-bike you buy for under &#xA;   $1000.00.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I am on a budget I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/selle-italia-flite-saddle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Selle Italia Flite&lt;/a&gt; seat on craigslist for only 30.00 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see reviews saying how comfortable this seat is even on long rides but when I feel it in my hands it feels significantly harder than the seat that came with my Motobecane Mirage S.  I was hoping someone could shed some light on this counter-intuitive phenomena regarding saddle hardness and whether it will actually perform better on long rides and more importantly, why that would be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20588" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T06:36:25.573" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T06:36:25.573" Title="How to judge comfort when buying a new saddle" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32313" CreationDate="2015-07-28T22:11:43.703" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This article, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering-field-notes/the-four-and-a-half-rules-of-road-saddles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Four and a Half Rules of Road Saddles&lt;/a&gt;, from Cervélo Cycles has been really helpful to me when pondering saddles. I think the key points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The saddle needs to be wide enough to support your &quot;sit bones&quot; but not so wide that it chafes on your thighs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The saddle has to be flat enough that the part between your sit bones doesn't press up on your soft tissues.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the saddle is padded, make sure the padding doesn't defeat the flatness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A cutout might help.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make sure that you've got the saddle adjusted well. Make sure the height is high enough, but not too high (I start too high and work down, because it seems easier to recognize too high than too low). Also make sure that the saddle is level – nose up can make the pressure worse, nose down and you may feel like you're slipping off the front to the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="1259" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T16:04:39.650" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T16:04:39.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32305" CreationDate="2015-07-28T23:17:31.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dahon &lt;a href=&quot;http://dahon.com/mainnav/folding-bikes/single-view/bike/vitesse_d8-1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vitesse D8&lt;/a&gt; site says it ships with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;KOMMUTER, 20&quot; x 1.75&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tires of those dimensions will do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The applications you mention suggest that a tire with a small amount of tread would be better than a slick (no tread) tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mind boggling array of tires you see is because the suppliers are all trying to distinguish their products, when they all do pretty much the same job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend taking your bike to your &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/254/8273&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt; and fit whatever tires they suggest, provided they have tread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T23:17:31.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32290" CreationDate="2015-07-28T23:19:05.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this missing plastic piece is the culprit. It does need to be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the derailleur is within 3 years of purchase, is in use with a full Campagnolo drive train (chain, cassette, crankset and chainrings, no 3rd party joining link in the chain) and you have a valid proof of purchase, then it is possibly a valid warranty claim - the warranty can be operated by any bicycle shop, who will need to forward the part to a Service Centre where the problem will be assessed and if appropraite, the warranty operated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the main Campagnolo factory-appointed Warranty and Service Centre for the UK, we can assure you that the above answer is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T23:19:05.947" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11147" CreationDate="2015-07-28T23:22:38.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer given above is substantially correct but it is also worth noting that failure of lever 2 - the upshift lever on the ErgoPower - is significantly more frequent if:&#xA;A non QS FD is used with a QS lever&#xA;A non Campagnolo crankset is in use, even if the FD and lever &quot;match&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the main Campagnolo factory-appointed Warranty and Service Centre for the UK, we can assure you that the above answer is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T23:22:38.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18916" CreationDate="2015-07-28T23:26:57.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need a pre-2000 rear derailleur as the cable pull ratio was changed in MY2001 and the lever / rear derailleur movement artio, if you use a current 9/10s RD will not give you accurate indexing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use and front derailleur from Campagnolo describing itself as &quot;9/10s&quot; compatible but you may find that you need to set it up with more care as the most recent 9/10s FDs have a different movement to cable recovery ratio, too - this is not such a big problem on the FD as it is on the rear, because you are not aiming for such exact index points but it can still be a consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the main Campagnolo factory-appointed Warranty and Service Centre for the UK, we can assure you that the above answer is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T23:26:57.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30229" CreationDate="2015-07-28T23:35:28.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Centaur 10s crank will give you the closest-to-original performance but the problem areas are all around the width and overall design of the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst the post fromFred above is true insofar as it states that the external dimension of the chain is different, it neglects to say that because of that width difference, in addition to a difference in chain construction, the way that the front derailleur and the chain interact is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally the chain will &quot;ride&quot; or &quot;float&quot; when going from a big chainring to a smaller one, without cleanly engaging the teeth of the chainring. Going &quot;up&quot;, there is a problem in that the ramps on the chainrings are designed to engage the outer cage plate of the chain to help it &quot;lift&quot; - the 9s chain does not have flush rivets, they protrude slightly, so the upshift ramps don't work anything like as well - you can mitigate this by also changing the chain to a 10s Ultra Narrow chain and adjusting the FD with great care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not a combination that we would advise, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the main Campagnolo factory-appointed Warranty and Service Centre for the UK, we can assure you that the above answer is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T23:35:28.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T00:04:34.630" Score="0" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older trek 8500 aluminum bike with rigid forks and I would like to change them to be suspension forks. Is this possible? Btw the tire size is 26&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20785" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T00:22:19.267" Title="Changing the front forks" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-30T23:35:36.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32320" CreationDate="2015-07-29T00:16:07.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, should be fairly simple, most suspension forks are for 26&quot; wheels. You need to measure the diameter of the fork tube, or it may be stamped on the tube itself, 1 1/8&quot; is common. You need to remove it to check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, most new forks use a threadless headset, the stem slides directly onto the fork. But older styles require a threaded stem with internal quill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T00:16:07.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32320" CreationDate="2015-07-29T00:22:19.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If original, this is an old bike - the Trek 8500 went to shocks before 1998. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1996 is listed as having a 1 1/8&quot; head set, so technically it would be a straight forward swap with a fork with the same headset (Most are now tapered). A shock will lift the front of the bike, changing the geometry. A smaller travel shock (under 100mm) might be acceptable and not change handling significantly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to find a 9mm qr fork with brake bosses for V brakes - (hard to find now unless very cheap model, although possible to find used ones in good condition, theres not certainly of it.)  The 1996 had V brakes, but earlier bikes might have had canti's. Upgrading brakes to discs (new front wheel) would be an option if you cannot find a fork with bosses for V brakes (requires a new front wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, unless you have a real affection for the bike or it is in exceptionally good condition, the cost will be prohibitive. Most people (myself included with a similar spec 1996 KHS I now really miss) end up doing the home work and opting to upgrade the entire bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T00:22:19.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T00:38:51.723" Score="2" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to this forum and I hope someone can help me out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently moved to the UK and I like to cycle. I'm looking for a bicycle with a small budget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would mainly use the bike for commuting between home and work. For this reason, I think I would like to have mud-guards on the front and rear (and possibly a cargo-rack), to be able to get to work without getting too dirty. The roads are generally good (asphalted), but sometimes, I'll have to take the side-walk and some of the roads are badly maintained (i.e. a pure road bike will probably damage quickly). Furthermore, it will be slightly uphill and downhill and one way will take about 40mins (google-maps). This will on average be twice a week.&#xA;Every once in a while I would also like to us the bike to just tour into the country (yes, it's in Scotland) on a Sunday. This will likely be once every two months.&#xA;Based on this, I am thinking about getting a hybrid bike, a touring bike or a cyclocross bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have three main questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what type of bike would you advice (any others that I'm overlooking, advantages, disadvantages)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do you have examples in or around Aberdeen for GBP 150-200?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what size of frame and wheels should I have, if I'm 1.82m tall (6.0')&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20786" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T00:48:28.713" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T01:47:44.683" Title="What bicycle to buy for commuting to work and for leisure (Aberdeen)" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32323" CreationDate="2015-07-29T01:47:44.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) As in Scotland, I would recommend you to look for a second-hand bike (possibly gumtree is a good place to start with, bear in mind that you need to check and make sure the bike is not stolen). The reason is that in the winter, all the salt on the roads will corrode your bike badly.So go cheap, then keep it as winter bike, then upgrade gradually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross would be your choice if you are planning to cycling offroad and over glens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just going to stick along the coast, a road bike would be enough (and pretty fast too, so you can go to Stonehaven, Montrose, even up to Inverness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) A road bike as for starter (second hand) is around £100-150 (Carrera Virtuoso for example, I got one for £110, model 2012) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cyclocross for starter (second hand) is around £150-200. The higher price reflects that not many people in Scotland buy/own cyclocross (I have yet to see one cyclocross bike in Dundee). A little search around Aberdeen shows Carrera Crixus selling at around £200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) 700c wheel of course :-) 26&quot; will be like a toddler-bike for you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your height is not telling much, but if you are an average guy, 1.82 m would need a 22&quot; (L or 54-56cm), between 21&quot; and 22&quot; also ok-ish. Having said, I'm 1.73 but I need a slightly larger one comparing to my height (20.5&quot; or 52-54 cm), because my back is quiet short, relatively to my legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T01:47:44.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32326" CreationDate="2015-07-29T03:36:43.643" Score="1" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get some spare inner tubes for my new road bike, but I'm unsure what size to get. On my tire it says the size is 700 x 25c and I know that 25 is the max width of the inner tube. So should I get 700x20-25c or 700x25-32c? I'm guessing 700x20-25c would be the safer option, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20788" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T04:02:39.813" Title="What inner tube size to get for my road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32325" CreationDate="2015-07-29T03:57:25.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it is in the range you are good.  You can even cheat outside the stated range a bit.  Too big and you can fold.  Too small and you stretch.  If it is spare you are going to carry on the bike then the smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T03:57:25.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32325" CreationDate="2015-07-29T04:02:39.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either of those inner tubes are fine for that tyre.  I'd recommend the smaller size since it's easier to get in the tyre without folds or twists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T04:02:39.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32287" CreationDate="2015-07-29T04:13:54.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost all seats and seat posts use a standard width and size rail.  Unless you have a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; high end setup, it will be compatible.  Since the one that you described didn't fit, I agree with the previous posters that the LBS has got it wrong somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that padding is not the only way to reduce saddle pain: getting a saddle that fits is much more effective.  If the saddle is too narrow for your sit-bones, or too wide, then no amount of padding will make you feel comfortable on it.  That's got nothing to do with the size of your .... um ... ass  ... rather, the saddle width has to match the bones of your pelvis.  Some bike stores have a little gel ruler that you sit on and it measures the distance, thus allowing you to choose a saddle with the correct width.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T04:13:54.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32331" CreationDate="2015-07-29T09:19:33.870" Score="9" ViewCount="8183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will be moving soon because of my work and the new area is not very &quot;mountain bike friendly&quot; as it is very flat and there aren't much hills or mountains around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think of buying a road bike to keep practicing and maybe commuting to work. But I know nothing about road bikes and I have never ridden one before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the main things I should be aware of when buying one that are fundamentaly different from a moutain bike ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike I currently have is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://2013.lapierre-bikes.co.uk/node/3280&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lapierre Zesty 414&lt;/a&gt; with tubeless tyres. I'm also quite tall (1m95 or 6'4&quot;) so I'm wondering if it may cause any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20791" LastEditorUserId="20791" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T11:34:02.187" LastActivityDate="2020-07-12T15:44:13.847" Title="Switching from a mountain bike to a road bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32329" CreationDate="2015-07-29T10:03:01.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not much to be aware of. The geometries range a bit between relaxed “training” geometries and more aggressive “racing” geometries. Get what fits you. Above 1000€ they are all solid quality with the main differences being weight and more or less aerodynamic wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on commuting, a randonneur or cyclocross bike where you can fit fenders, wider tires, a rack and hub dynamo might be a better, more versatile choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it’s flat, windy and mostly overland an aerodynamic time trial/triathlon bike might be an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T10:03:01.440" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32329" CreationDate="2015-07-29T10:36:02.240" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will find the differences are significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say a road bike, we understand a bike with drop handlebars. Drop bars give you a very different riding position compared to an MTB. Some people need time to adjust to the new position, and can have problems with weak or tired neck muscles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative would be a hybrid style of bike, with flat handlebars. This would be much closer to the riding position you are used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinner, smaller, slick tires will provide two more differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is much less cushioning, so you'll feel bumps more. The other is they'll be much faster. So you'll ride faster and feel any bumps in the road more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a consequence, some people get sore hands or wrists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other main difference is how light the bike is. On any medium quality bike (or better) you'll feel like you suddenly got on an F1 bike :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When switching to road cycling, make sure you have well padded gloves to absorb road vibration. And the bigger the change in riding position from your MTB, the more gradually you should make the change. Keep the MTB and ride the new bike for a few days, then switch back. If you start feeling sore then give the new bike a break for a day or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may sound like I'm talking road bikes down, but as a road-only cyclist I am keen for you to get the best out of the change. You'll quickly discover that each kind of cycling has it's own &lt;em&gt;different&lt;/em&gt; pleasures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T10:36:02.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T11:05:45.300" Score="1" ViewCount="1351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to get a lock ring off of an old wheel. I have the correct cassette removal tool and (homemade) chain whip. I've gone so far as to use a vise but to no avail. I'm attempting to turn it counter clockwise. One thing that really confuses me is that I've seen bike mechanics and videos online where they put it on the vise and turn it counterclockwise but in my reality it spins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts? I've always worked with freewheels so I very well may be attempting to do something that applies to them and not cassettes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T01:22:56.653" Title="Frozen lockring" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30656" CreationDate="2015-07-29T11:26:54.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may have missed it in this thread but what kind of bicycle is it? If it's something like a Raleigh or a Peugeot or the like, it may be worth it in terms of both riding and getting the mechanical experience. If it's the 70's equivalent of a Huffy I'd pass mostly because that quality of a bike is virtually impossible to ever get adjusted properly and mechanically speaking, it's likely that you will become frustrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that it's a decent bike, I say go for it! I've worked on and restored older bicycles and it's very rewarding. The initial investment of buying essential tools will absolutely make it worth it if you plan on doing more. The parts will likely be more expensive than the value of the bike, but again, gained experience and the satisfaction that comes from doing it is well worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T11:26:54.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32329" CreationDate="2015-07-29T13:24:53.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road bikes typically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't have suspension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are stiffer (frame doesn't flex as much)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are intended for seated high cadence stroking with even power throughout the stroke (vs mountain bikes that expect and withstand very powerful downstrokes while standing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have higher gearing ratios that allow greater speeds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use thinner tires with higher pressure for less rolling resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;provide many more hand positions so you can switch frequently to avoid fatigue and numbness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have a much more forward facing position to reduce wind resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consequences of these design decisions are many.  For instance, due to 1, 2, and 5 you'll find that when on very flat surfaces you can go very fast with very little (relative) effort. However, this also means that on even good roads you'll feel road vibration and every single bump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to 7 you'll be putting a lot more pressure on your hands as they support more of your upper body.  This puts you in a position to provide powerful strokes without having to stand up, but means you may have to deal with more hand issues - which is one reason road bikes typically have 6.  On the standard drop bars there are at least four positions which put pressure on your hands and wrists differently, and switching between them while riding will be important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number 3 above means that if you consistently use a standing position, or prefer to stand to accelerate away from stops, you may eventually place too much stress on parts of the frame, including the bottom bracket.  If you change to a road frame, you will really need to practice pedaling faster in lieu of pedaling stronger. The frames are simply not designed for strong standing stroking techniques, and the larger you are the more destructive those techniques are to the frame.  Shift down to a slower gear when you're about to stop, and get up to a cadence of 90 before shifting to a faster gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might instead want to consider a hybrid bike, such as a touring bike.  Alternately, many people simply put tires with no tread pattern, or a light road pattern on their mountain bikes. It would be much less expensive, but you may find that you quickly reach the highest gearing and want to go faster than the mountain bike is designed for. This is certainly much less expensive to try out, though, and provides a transition time to determine what your needs really are after you move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T13:24:53.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32332" CreationDate="2015-07-29T13:54:55.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One thing that really confuses me is that I've seen bike mechanics and videos online where they put it on the vise and turn it counterclockwise but in my reality it spins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that you're using the chain whip. Which direction are you turning it? If you're removing a lock ring in a vice you'll hold the removal tool with the vice and use the chain whip to turn the cassette counter-clockwise. If the lock ring is really stuck (which it shouldn't be since the lock ring isn't tightened by pedaling like a freewheel) you could use a piece of pipe on the handle of the chain whip as a &quot;cheater&quot; to get extra leverage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pink Bike has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Cassette-Removal-and-Installation-2011.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nicely illustrated article&lt;/a&gt; on how to remove cassettes, and this article from Park Tool also explains &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cassette-and-freewheel-removal-and-installation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to remove cassette lock rings&lt;/a&gt; and all manner of other rear-wheel gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T01:22:56.653" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T01:22:56.653" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T14:41:14.467" Score="1" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rear wheel needed for women's 2014 Scattante road bike with the following details:&#xA;Front wheel- Alex Rims A Class AKX R3.0 700C Road Wheel 28 Alloy Black, stainless 14 gauge spokes. &#xA;Cassette- Shimano Tiagra 12/28&#xA;Crankset- FSA Omega Compact 50/34&#xA;Tires- Hutchinson Nitro 700X23, 33TPI (I can reuse the rear tire.)&#xA;My matching rear wheel was destroyed when hit by a car. I will not ride this bike on the road again, but would like to use it in-house on a fluid trainer. Can anyone advise me where to purchase a matching wheel or an inexpensive, compatible rear wheel? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20797" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T22:48:44.110" Title="Rear wheel needed" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32287" CreationDate="2015-07-29T15:51:29.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I swear by the seats that have a hole in the center. Terry was the original but now other manufacturers make them as well. I have used them for years. Even with tons of gel the fragile parts are still going to be in direct contact with the seat and that hurts. If you do go that route, you'll have to adjust it a little here and there to make sure that it's doing what it's supposed to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13747" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T15:51:29.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2388" CreationDate="2015-07-29T16:05:17.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solved the issue of leaking air on the core part of the Presta valve by using Teflon tape to tighten the seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXiNr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oXiNr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Teflon tape on the presta valve&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13751" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T16:05:17.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T16:09:52.133" Score="1" ViewCount="3213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to cycling and want to start riding regularly as a form of exercise. I'm mostly going to be riding on roads/pavement but may come into contact with the occasional gravel-isn road &lt;a href=&quot;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1d/Tamsa.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1d/Tamsa.JPG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may use it for commuting 1/5 times but it will mostly be for fitness.&#xA;For now I don't see myself riding long distances. I'm not sure what the distance looks like but I would expect 2 hour rides maximum (most days just 45 minutes to an hour). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want a bike that's too heavy or has too many complicated gears, but I do want one that will hold up well and can accommodate the occasional change in path. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My previous bike was the cheapest I could find. It was a cruiser and barely lasted a few months when the tire popped after riding over an acorn on the road. So I want a bike where that won't happen again... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20799" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T22:53:09.037" Title="Road bike or hybrid for fitness (also including some commuting and loose gravel)?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32341" CreationDate="2015-07-29T16:13:32.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclocross or gravel bike.  They both do fine on road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T16:13:32.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31030" CreationDate="2015-07-29T16:29:10.123" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there are many good answers from the community, it all depends on the rider. As being the rider for this scenario, the correct answer is to tough it out and just build up muscle to go up hill. Since posting this question more than a month ago I was able to train enough to be comfortable going steeper hills in higher gears thereby not needing a change in my components. Thanks everyone for your help, a vote up for everyone! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14679" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T16:29:10.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16587" CreationDate="2015-07-29T16:35:33.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had exactly the same problem. Its because Some front brakes have a spring that limits the applied force. It's a safety feature so you don't flip forward. remove that spring and your problems are over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20801" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T16:35:33.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T16:56:24.300" Score="0" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got another mystery at my hands. This time this 26.6mm seatpost (although i'm not with a paquimeter on my hands, a 26.8mm one almost fits is), italian thread bb. By scratching the dropouts I couldn't find any visible stamps and I have no idea of any components and fork that it came originally. I can read the serial number as 903273 and have never seen those lugs before, does anyone have any idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/4NNio&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here are the pics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20723" LastEditorUserId="3631" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T00:52:30.093" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T01:29:18.240" Title="Another mysterious frame identification" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T18:26:18.210" Score="2" ViewCount="2238" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would I be able to have a local framebuilder retrofit an existing steel mountain bike frame to install internally routed cable guides on the top tube without disassembling the frame? I would probably prefer to install lugged guides for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Certainly not for performance reasons. I just like internal routing, which I have on a couple different bikes already. Less external stuff to get caught on while riding and easier to accommodate frame packs for bikepacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T20:27:40.160" Title="Can a bike frame be retrofitted with internal cable routing without Disassembly?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;&lt;cable-routing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32345" CreationDate="2015-07-29T18:45:28.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lugs don't look familiar. It has horizontal dropouts and full length brake cable housing so that dates it to sometime prior to the mid-80s. The fork is 100% not original to the frame. It has bottle braze-ons so it's likely made sometime after the mid-70s. The one peculiar thing is that it has bottle braze-ons but not shift lever braze-ons (and this bike most definitely predates integrated brake/shift levers such as STI or Ergo) It also has brazed on cable guides for the derailleur cables. I'm guessing the dropouts are 126mm spacing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could well have been made for a 26.8 post. That rattle can paint job could be compromising the fit and it's also not unusual to have the seat tube become slightly ovalized due to over heating the seat lug during assembly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T18:45:28.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32346" CreationDate="2015-07-29T19:26:57.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. If nothing else you'd need to strip the frame to have it repainted after the guides are brazed into place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:26:57.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32337" CreationDate="2015-07-29T19:56:05.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for road wheels with Shimano-compatible freehub. For trainer use, any wheel will do. With high end wheels you might find a tubular rim or Campagnolo freehub, but any low end wheel will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:56:05.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T20:24:22.407" Score="2" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;My chain is ready to be replaced according to gauge, but, my shifting is flawless. Should I replace the chain or squeeze another few hundred miles out ? It currently has about 2500 and is a CN6701. Thanks !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20803" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T21:33:35.910" Title="Old chain still shifting perfectly, should I change it out?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30229" CreationDate="2015-07-29T20:26:12.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have ridden several thousand kms on full 9-speed Campagnolo Veloce setup and more than 10k with otherwise same components but 10-speed Chorus crankset. In my experience the mismatched set works far better than full Veloce 9 and does not have the problems described by Graeme. That being said, I'd pick the 10 speed one since difference is smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that chain and chainring design does not play a large part in this, but the fact that Veloce chainrings are pressed sheet metal and Chorus ones machined from thicker plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T20:26:12.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T20:41:09.713" Score="2" ViewCount="495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to build my first wheel using the Ryde V38 rim (Westwood type). &#xA;The shop where I ordered the rim, says it has 5.5 mm spoke holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nipples that come with the regular 2.34 mm (13 g) spokes are specified to have a 5.9 mm nipple head diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like that is a rather small overlap, so I am wondering if I should use &quot;large head nipples&quot; (7 mm) instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5687" LastEditorUserId="5687" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T21:19:40.433" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T23:01:24.757" Title="What size nipple should I use for granny bike rim?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;nipples&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32329" CreationDate="2015-07-29T21:32:16.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I made the same switch, I found I needed to check the tire pressure much more frequently, otherwise I'd get &quot;pinch flats&quot; all the time.  Find the recommended pressure on the side of the tire and inflate to that every day you ride.  Because of this, you'll need a pump with a gauge. But I'm happy I switched!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13094" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T21:32:16.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32350" CreationDate="2015-07-29T21:33:35.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention what gauge you used, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;there are many kinds&lt;/a&gt;. Take a look at that link; it is worth reading, as is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/1006215-ruler-method-checking-chain-wear.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current smoothness of the shifting isn't usually the deciding factor regarding when to change, but rather the cost of the other components that wear faster when the chain is worn: the cassette, and the front chainwheels. The idea is to replace the chain (relatively cheap in comparison) before it starts to damage the more expensive cassette and front chainwheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience I get about 2,000-2,500 miles out of a CN-6701, and I'm riding in near-ideal conditions (Southern California weather). I'm pretty careful about keeping my chain clean and properly lubed. I typically replace the cassette about every three chains, and the front chainwheels (Ultegra as well) are still OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T21:33:35.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31442" CreationDate="2015-07-29T21:39:04.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So to first answer the direct questions you asked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chain falling off the front chainring will harm the chainring and/or the chain only if you are pedaling hard at the time it falls off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting the chain back on the ways you are describing shouldn't harm any part of the bicycle as long as you aren't pedaling hard as you shift, which I'm sure you're not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See below, as I think this is the main question.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mechanic would need to take the bike for a ride to prove to himself that the chain comes off as you describe.  I'm not sure this is necessary though, as your description should be enough to start the fix attempt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some background that you might already understand is that 20&quot; wheel bikes usually have shorter chainstays (the frame tube that connects where the crank bearings are to where the rear wheel attaches) than more conventional bicycles.  This is true on your Dahon.  This means that as you shift the gears in back, the angle that the chain makes as it engages the front chainring is sharper than if the chainstays were longer.  This is a bit hard to visualize maybe without a picture.  This is the best I could find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WH2O9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WH2O9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can imagine that if the rear cogs were further from the front chainring that the angle the chain has to make to engage the front chainring would be less.  I doubt this has changed any since you got the bike so it is not the direct problem, but it could be making it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue that is evident from your description is that your bike has bad chainline.  Ideally the front chainring should line up in between cogs 4 and 5 in the back (for an 8sp), but it sounds like the front chainring is too close to the centerline of the bicycle and probably lines up with cogs 2 or 3 or somewhere in there (with the largest cog being cog 1).  This can be fixed by changing the spindle for the cranks to one that is longer and places the crank (and therefore the chainring) farther from the centerline of the bicycle.  That might fix your problem, but sometimes getting the right spindle takes a bit of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mystery of course is why it worked for so long then stopped working.  My guess is that one of the teeth on your front chainring is misshaped, maybe by hitting a rock.  Careful inspection and gentle filing might fix this.  The mechanic's suggestion to reverse the chainring could work as well, as it puts the more ramped side of the teeth where it needs to be to make up for the bad chainline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that the first time this happened it was just bad luck, but with the chain getting in between the chainring and the chainguard (bashguard), the chainguard was bent outward enough to allow the chain to come off more easily.  If you look at the chainguard and see any bending near where it bolts to the crank, I would suspect that this is the case.  Certainly the chainguard would be more effective if it were closer to the chainring, so if you can think of a way to bend it a little bit without bending the chainring, you might try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find a mechanic who will work with you, you could also put the chainring in the outer position of the crank and use spacers to get the chainguard the correct distance from the chainring.  This would improve the chainline and get the chainguard closer to the chainring where it would be more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One less likely possibility would be a tight chain link, especially if the chain comes off more when you are pedaling softly than when you are pedaling hard.  I think the mechanic might have already checked this, but you could check it yourself by getting where you can watch the chain as it snakes though the rear derailleur.  Rotate the pedals backward slowly, then more quickly, with your hand and you should see the chain go smoothly through the derailleur.  If there is a tight link you will see it.  If you find a tight link, inspect it to make sure the metal looks okay, then (if it's okay) gently bend the chain sideways to loosen the link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the rear derailleur is to blame for any of this as long as it is shifting correctly.  The rear derailleur spring tension has very little to do with the top part of the chain loop when you are pedaling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19298" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T21:39:04.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-29T21:39:50.237" Score="2" ViewCount="1420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using a Devinci silverstone s.1 that's having trouble getting up to the highest/largest gear on the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the tension and it didn't seem to make a difference. Read I should check limit screws next. Mine aren't labelled H and L but I thought I could figure it out from the chain's behavior but for some reason as I tighten and loosen each one I'm not totally convinced which is which. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's one that's higher but closer to the lower gear and one that's vice versa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/1s19rrlvpe9foqx/file%202015-07-29%2C%2017%2040%2037.jpeg?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.dropbox.com/s/1s19rrlvpe9foqx/file%202015-07-29%2C%2017%2040%2037.jpeg?dl=0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="888" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T22:01:18.317" Title="Not sure which limit screw is H vs L" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32357" CreationDate="2015-07-29T22:01:18.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost always the H limit screw is on the outside and the L limit screw is on the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19298" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T22:01:18.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32341" CreationDate="2015-07-29T22:43:34.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is go try out as many bikes as you can &amp;amp; see what you like!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably do 20 miles or so in two hours, depending on how hard you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as being concerned about the gears adding complication, although there is a learning curve to figure out what gear to use when, a &lt;em&gt;quality&lt;/em&gt; bike should shift easily &amp;amp; smoothly with minimal problems. There won't be too much difference in this regard between a good road &amp;amp; good hybrid bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be more at risk for flats with a road bike on that terrain for sure. Otherwise, with a cyclocross or hybrid you can get tires like Schwalbe Marathons or Specialized armadillos to name just two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to consider what your expectations are (for speed, riding up hills, your own riding ability &amp;amp; athleticism). I hope I’m not making an unfair assumption, but since your last bike was a cruiser, can I guess that you are probably more of a beginner cyclist? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is so, you would likely want something that provides you with some easier, slower gears, especially if you are going to be riding even moderate hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cyclocross bike:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be two front crankset gears with 36 &amp;amp; 46 teeth. The &lt;em&gt;smaller&lt;/em&gt; the gear in the front = the slower &amp;amp; easier it is to pedal. So 36 tooth is the low gear &amp;amp; 46 tooth is the high gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear cassette might have 9 or 10 gears ranging in size from 12 teeth to 30 teeth. On the rear, the &lt;em&gt;larger&lt;/em&gt; gear is the easier / slower gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hybrid bike:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front crankset will likely have three gears instead of two, like a 28, 38 &amp;amp; 48 tooth gear. So the gearing is significantly lower / slower / easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear cassette may have gears that go from 12 or 14 to as large as 34 or 36 teeth, again the large being a lower, slower easier gear.&#xA;(It is worth noting that the higher / faster gears on the hybrid may have the same number of teeth as the cyclocross).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Road bike&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front crankset will likely have two gear, like a 39 tooth &amp;amp; 53 tooth gear. So the gearing on the  low end is significantly higher / faster / harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear cassette may have gears that go from 12 to only 25 teeth, again the large being a lower, slower easier gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, having come from riding a cruiser, you may find the hybrid to be more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the above doesn’t apply to you (or you just really want to ride with drop bars), &lt;em&gt;I’d recommend the hybrid / commuter bike&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one other classification of bike that you may have overlooked, Touring Bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Touring bikes&lt;/strong&gt; typically have gearing much more similar to that of a hybrid like the gearing I have noted above, but have a somewhat more aggressive riding position with drop bars (although still relaxed compared to a road bike or cyclocross).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T22:53:09.037" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T22:53:09.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32352" CreationDate="2015-07-29T23:01:24.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;5.5mm spoke holes sounds ridiculously large and it would not surprise me if that's not correct. Ryde don't mention it on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ryde.nl/en/products?product=22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;generic V38 page&lt;/a&gt; nor do &quot;Flying Pigeon&quot; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingpigeonla.myshopify.com/products/ryde-v38-westwood-profile-rim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their Westwood listing&lt;/a&gt; but they do suggest 2.0mm spokes. No mention of needing large head nipples though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can try the large head in the rim before buying definitely do that. Otherwise I'd be tempted to wait and see, since if you need the large head nipples you'll need to buy them separately anyway so you only lose time by waiting to see if you need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T23:01:24.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32385" CreationDate="2015-07-30T01:14:44.317" Score="8" ViewCount="4907" Body="&lt;p&gt;My twelve-year-old recently tried downhill mountain biking when we were in Lake Placid. He found it thrilling and would like to continue with this new sport now that we are back home. I am hesitant for him to practice this sport on a regular basis because of safety concerns. We allow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;basketball (with mouth guard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;soccer (with shin guards) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;swimming &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tennis &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cross country skiing &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ice skating for fun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We do not allow games with a stick -- ice hockey, lacrosse. And we do not allow American football or downhill skiing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to be reasonably consistent with our existing policy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where does downhill mountain bike riding (on an established track at a reputable ski center) fit, on the scale of things? He has asked for a full-face helmet and elbow and knee pads, because that's what he was given to use as part of the fee at Lake Placid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to avoid fractures, of course, but I'd mainly like to avoid really serious injuries and things that might leave him with longlasting health problems such as a knee or back that is never the same again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not worried about scratches or bruises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Responding to a comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This can't be answered without knowing the risk-taking behavior of your kid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He is a risk taker and has a diagnosed problem with sensory integration (motor planning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I personally think the &lt;em&gt;question I asked&lt;/em&gt; can be answered without this additional information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20805" LastEditorUserId="20805" LastEditDate="2017-09-02T15:40:10.600" LastActivityDate="2019-05-02T08:56:02.850" Title="Safety comparison, downhill mountain bike vs. downhill ski" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T01:41:13.093" Score="1" ViewCount="1097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am biking the Pacific Coast from Vancouver, BC to San Diego this September. I am looking to purchase a new bike, but I am struggling with the choices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enjoy racing with friends on weekends. On an average weekend, I might bike 80 miles and will sustain and 25mph pace. I regularly participate in relaxed races, like the Portland Century. I also bike to work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an ideal world, I'd purchase a race bike and a touring bike, but unfortunately,  I cannot afford both. I need to purchase a bike that is capable of making a 1850 mile journey, but also sporty and speedy enough to satisfy my weekly needs. I'm really lost and I'm not sure what bike fits both these requirements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips, pointers, or advice would be greatly appreciated!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few other tidbits of information:&#xA;- I could potentially purchase a trailer for the trip, so I don't have to purchase a bike that has bIke bag capabilities. &#xA;- I'm willing to sacrifice comfort on my trip for a bike that will meet my needs in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20806" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T23:28:48.413" Title="Best bike for distance, best bike for speed" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-08-01T18:35:50.897" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T02:52:30.787" Score="1" ViewCount="3854" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TJ1eD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TJ1eD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Orbea Alma 2015 alum frame dent - ok to ride?&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: My lbs mech / owner (same guy) looked at it this AM, says it is good to go, 'ride the hell out of it', he 100% backs it up. And FWIW re: the specifics of this frame and why it's purely cosmetic, he tells me that the top of the top tube, in that area, isn't the load-bearing part (the sides of the top tube are where the material's beefed up and takes the load). Which makes logical sense to me, for this frame anyway (I wouldn't speculate about other frames, I think frame-specific knowledge is key here). The sides of the top tube show zero signs of the impact, no bending / warping, etc etc. Good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, thanks to all for the input, much appreciated! Ride on...&#xA;-cw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2015 Orbea Alma alum frame top tube, looking front left to back right. This pic gives the best angle on the contour - the sides of the top tube feel unaffected by this dent, and you can see from the black center line bisecting the tube that the majority of dent is on the left from the left shifter pod, so what you see here is the worst of it I think. Any general impressions regarding whether I have killed this frame or not would be much appreciated, thank you -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20808" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T16:19:57.323" Title="MInor (I think) dent in top of Orbea Alma top tube - frame ok or no?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32364" CreationDate="2015-07-30T03:27:32.333" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't ride that. Aluminum will randomly snap at the best of times, and a fold-looking bend like yours only makes it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2824" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T03:27:32.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32362" CreationDate="2015-07-30T07:25:23.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't allow downhill skiing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downhill on same terrain bike versus ski.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You ski on snow.  It is white and smooth.  If it is not ice it is even soft.  You bicycle on dirt and rock.  Go down at 20 mph not even close.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike has less rolling resistance so you gain speed faster.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike has brakes and have to turn to stop on skis but I still say ski safer.  You can lay down a two long edges on a ski.  A bike on gravel does not have good braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike has handle bar to take out teeth and pedals that seem to find legs on the way down.  Spinning tires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for knee you are way more likely to blow out a knee skiing.  By nature of you have these long levers attached to to feet.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back is not a common injury in a 12 year old and ski or bike you are not falling from a height. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess if you rule out scratches and bruises and make it knee and back only it may be close.  Where do you put broken bones and stitches? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Me I allow both. There is risk versus life experience. A reasonable athlete that controls their speed is pretty safe with either. How your child approaches sport safety is a much bigger factor.  In both you don't have another team that is trying to hit you like football.  I would suggest that working with your child on decision making and risk will do more to keep him healthy than restricting him from these two sports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T07:25:23.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32363" CreationDate="2015-07-30T08:06:42.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a randonneur or cyclocross bike with eyelets for a rack. Stevens Namura, Focus Mares AX 3.0, Ridley X-Bow, Rose PRO DX CROSS …&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use it with 23mm road tires as a road bike. Install a rack and some 32mm tires (Schwalbe Marathon Racer, Vittoria Randonneur Hyper) for touring. Some people would also add fenders and a dynamo hub. My longest trip was 3200km through Scandinnavia with ~12kg of camping equipment on the rear rack of my Focus Mares 2009. Perfect if you are touring light and fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more luggage weight or “relaxed” riding you’d probably have to start with a real touring bike like the Surly Long Haul Trucker (long chain stays for more luggage, eyelets for a lowrider rack on the fork, robust steel frame …).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T08:06:42.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32369" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T10:22:06.600" Score="0" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced my bottom bracket with a Shimano 113mm cartridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now 3 months later its making a creaking noise; the sound goes when free wheeling though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do l need a new cartridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20813" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T21:50:55.710" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T02:58:19.330" Title="Bottom bracket creaking" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32363" CreationDate="2015-07-30T11:07:03.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have pretty similar cycling needs as you. I love to race, but still commute over 250km per week in bad weather, so I needed a durable, sporty bike, on a budget. &#xA;After doing a &lt;strong&gt;LOT&lt;/strong&gt; of research, I bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/verenti-defense-wr21-sora-2014/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Verenti Defense WR2.1 Sora 2015&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this answer helps, I have done over 4000km in 4 months on this bike in terrible weather (Ireland) and have also mounted rear and front panniers. Therefore, in my opinion, this is defiantly a sporty bike as well as a workhorse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Comes with mudguards, rear rack mounts, 25mm tires (only had 2 punctures so far), etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17332" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T23:28:48.413" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T23:28:48.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32369" CreationDate="2015-07-30T11:16:59.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creaking from the BB area can be hard to localize, but there are basically 5 sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cups holding the cartridge in place are a hair loose, and the cartridge is moving around a bit.  Not a real big deal but should be fixed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The BB cartridge bearings are going bad somehow.  Unlikely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pedal is making noise.  Sometimes this is indicative of a bad bearing, sometimes it's just what the pedal does.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pedal is loose where it's screwed into the crank arm.  Needs to be fixed fairly soon, or the crank arm can be damaged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The crank arm is loose on the crank axle.  &lt;em&gt;This is a serious problem and needs to be fixed right away (if not sooner) to prevent damage to the crank arm and the axle.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T11:16:59.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T11:41:44.983" Score="1" ViewCount="9188" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What effect does cycling have on the bladder?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some information online:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beginnertriathlete.com/cms/article-detail.asp?articleid=2197&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beginner Triathlete&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is not uncommon to have genitourinary symptoms caused by prolonged contact with the bike seat.  These symptoms can include numbness and tingling, erectile dysfunction, hematuria (blood in the urine), overactive bladder, and even a transitory decrease in sperm production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.livestrong.com/article/320465-a-urinary-tract-infection-and-bike-riding/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Livestrong&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bicycle riding combines two key triggers of female urinary tract infections -- friction and bacteria. If you're a woman and an avid cyclist, understanding the mechanics of infection and taking the right precautions can minimize the chance you'll contract a UTI during during this physical activity. If you're a male cyclist, little if any evidence shows a direct link between bike riding and infections, but the mechanics of cycling can aggravate another condition with symptoms mimicking bladder infections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pacificurology.com/cycling-safety-avoid-urologist-summer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pacific Urology&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While the physical and mental health benefits of cycling are clear, there can be negative urological consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(although that seems to be more about sperm count than anything else.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opinions seem to be contradicting, though. Is there anything conclusive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20814" LastEditorUserId="683" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T02:36:03.467" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T17:19:46.587" Title="Cycling's effect On The Bladder?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T13:43:38.700" Score="2" ViewCount="2770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a full suspension mountain bike with disk brakes.  When I ride fast, my rear disk brake starts to make a noise similar to the one you would hear when sharpening a knife.  It happens when I don't brake.  If I brake, the noise disappears, I only hear the smooth braking sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume something is wrong with the rear tire - visual inspection when it rotates fast shows that it wobbles.  I tried to demount it and mount it back again two times, but no success - still wobbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the non-aligned rear tire cause by disk brake to be noisy when I ride fast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shall I simply buy a new tire, or could the solution be elsewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an update - with videos showing the wobbling tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;https://youtu.be/_9Wor0KFL34&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;https://youtu.be/Bju-LyKCOi8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;although it seems to be redundant now, as Jackson and Rider_X already suggested other solutions.  Thanks guys :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20815" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T21:47:11.970" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T21:47:11.970" Title="My rear disc brake makes noise when I ride fast" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32398" CreationDate="2015-07-30T13:54:42.743" Score="0" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can run a modern tapered 1 1/2&quot; to 1 1/8&quot; tapered suspension fork on a 2003 Surly Karate Monkey (Original frame style with V-brake and Disc Brake Mounts). I think it only works with 1 1/8&quot; straight steerer forks now. Are there any headsets that I could install which would make my frame compatible with a modern tapered suspension fork?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I'm currently running a Chris King No Threadset for straight steerer at 1 1/8&quot; diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T15:33:55.870" LastActivityDate="2020-09-26T17:44:00.157" Title="Tapered suspension fork on a 2003 Surly Karate Monkey frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32373" CreationDate="2015-07-30T13:55:52.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;when there is a problem with noise and visual inspection, it's best if you could make a video and post it to, say, youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the wheel is wobbling, you need to true it (if the rim is wobbling, too). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check if the wheel wobble when at rest, simply by using hand to push and pull the wheel side-way. If the wheel also wobbles, the cone might need to be tightened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are sure the problem is coming from the brake, check if the disc rotor is straight by simply looks at the gap between the brake rotor and the disc brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T13:55:52.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16745" CreationDate="2015-07-30T14:05:44.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a total Full-Suss addict, from my first URT (unified rear triangle) and single pivot bikes right up to my current 2014 Trek EX8 Evo 4-bar with fox CTD. &#xA;Why is no one debating whether gas suspension forks are a &quot;nice to have&quot; anymore? It sounds ridiculous now, but there were those who believed non-sus forks were the way to go for all of the same reasons. &#xA;The rear of the bike takes more weight than the front so for me, it makes no sense to tackle difficult terrain on a Hard-tail. When you are on the edge, the suspension helps you. Modern 4-bar type suspension is SOOOO much better than the older designs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, I do have a hard tail MTB for distance work and canal paths etc and use it in that environment because it is light and responsive.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You own more than one pair of shoes right? &#xA;So why would you have only one bike and expect it to be perfect for everything?&#xA;However, if I was only allowed 1 bike, it would be a full suss 4 bar with a pneumatic dropper post every time.&#xA;...and on the &quot;learn you skills on a hard tail first&quot; suggestion, we don't make watchmakers use hammers to become more skilled. Just use the best tool for the job that you can get your hands on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20817" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T14:05:44.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T14:09:26.043" Score="0" ViewCount="1484" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to find an as similar as possible replacement fork for my 2012 Giant Roam 2. (They have rusted over time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full spec of the bike is here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/roam.2/9330/49862/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/roam.2/9330/49862/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to that site, the forks I am looking are the SR Suntour NEX 4610 Lock-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I cannot seem to get them online anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas of what types of forks I can get for this? On a budget!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20816" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T15:17:42.237" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T16:47:36.040" Title="Replacement Forks for Giant Roam 2 2012" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32373" CreationDate="2015-07-30T14:15:54.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With disk brakes the disk rotor is attached to the hub and not to the rim so a wobble in the tyre is unlikely to be the cause of the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'd be looking at is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the rotor bolts tight?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the rotor warped?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the brake pads worn?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is one or both of the pistons sticking?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the calipar aligned properly?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 and 2 you can check easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 3 remove the pads and make sure that there is at least a couple of mill of braking compound left and that the springs (if present) are in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 4, with the pads removed check that both pistons are extended by an equal amount; alternatively with the pads still removed push the pistons back (carefully with a soft implement not a screwdriver) and then squeeze the brake lever, do both pistons move in and out evenly?  Be very careful not to push the pistons out to far! How you sort out a sticky piston is going to depend on the type of brake you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 5 look at the disk rotor as you press the lever, does the rotor displace to one side?  If it does this indicates that the pistons aren't applying equal force to the rotor - this could be a mis-aligned caliper or it could be a sticking piston so you'll need to check 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="181" LastEditorUserId="181" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T14:21:22.490" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T14:21:22.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32377" CreationDate="2015-07-30T14:37:26.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many OEM forks are not for sale directly to the public. This one very well may fall into that category. That said, there is no need to replace it with the exact same fork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just need to make sure to replace it with something that will fit. IE, the steerer tube is the correct diameter (probably 1 1/8&quot;, but you should verify before purchasing), that it is sized to accept 700c wheels &amp;amp; that it is made to accept disc brakes. &#xA;Something like on of these may fit the bill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://smile.amazon.com/RockShox-Paragon-Turnkey-Aluminum-Steerer/dp/B00JZIRNPI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1438266539&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;keywords=700c%20suspension%20fork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RockShox-Paragon-Turnkey-Aluminum-Steerer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://smile.amazon.com/SR-Suntour-NRX-Suspension-Threadless/dp/B00H65082W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1438266539&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=700c%20suspension%20fork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SR-Suntour-NRX-Suspension-Threadless&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikewagon.com/part/forks/suspension-forks/sr-suntour-nrx-eld-700c-suspension-fork-1-1-8-63mm-electric-lockout-black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sr-suntour-nrx-eld-700c-suspension-fork-electric-lockout-black&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikewagon.com/part/forks/suspension-forks/rockshox-paragon-gold-65mm-700c-suspension-fork-disc-brake-black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rockshox-paragon-gold-65mm-700c&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to recommend any one over the other mind you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other options, I would just start googling &quot;700c Threadless suspension fork&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T14:37:26.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T14:49:52.467" Score="0" ViewCount="1506" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my single speed--a POS Bikes Direct bike--the rear wheel makes a clunking noise every time I pedal. I think it is coming from the freewheel and it's basically a CLINK! CLONK! noise that is driving me nuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should mention that the seat stay on the left side of the bike is slightly longer than on the right. Therefore the back is asymmetrical. The tire rides perfectly in the center of the rear dropouts and between the chain stays. However, the tire is a right aligned to the right seat stay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a visual I sent to Bikes Direct to try to get them to fix it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNRhn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNRhn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;And &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/9s0Pw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here are pictures&lt;/a&gt; of the bike from various angles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14679" LastEditorUserId="14679" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T17:35:12.500" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T17:41:32.147" Title="How to fix a clanking rear wheel/flywheel" Tags="&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32372" CreationDate="2015-07-30T15:43:39.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You likely won't find anything conclusive, because the required testing would be so varied.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything done poorly can cause problems.  Any sport lends itself to an increased chance for injury.  However, proper technique and equipment generally alleviates some, if not most of that risk.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cycling, proper hygiene, attire, technique and bike fit are all important.  Keeping your skin clean (before and after rides).  During rides (especially longer rides) chamois cream of some sort can help immensely.  Bike shorts are made for a reason: they work.  They should also be clean, however.  Other attire is also important.  Overdressing and sweating yourself out only creates a breeding ground for bacteria.  Remember body odor varies from person to person, but is largely caused by the flora on the skin.  No reason to build it a Disneyland unnecessarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A properly fitting seat and bike will minimize friction and irritation.  These factors can cause surface skin damage which then leads to infection (saddle sores, etc) after the skin begins to break down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are referring to bladder infections, I think it would be a long road with a lot of ignorance to get there.  While females are generally more prone to UTIs, and cycling could increase the risk of those, the steps necessary to reduce the risk are quite easy and really part of basic hygiene.  Getting a UTI and then ignoring it long enough for it to hit the bladder would require an additional step of disregard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastEditorUserId="13710" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T15:53:08.493" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T15:53:08.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32373" CreationDate="2015-07-30T16:00:37.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;sharpening a knife&quot; sound you describe is likely the rotor lightly touching the brake pad (as mentioned in @Jackson's answer). This can happen if the rotor slightly is out-of-true (i.e., slightly warped) and the caliper isn't perfectly aligned.  The sound can also come and go depending on how warm the rotor is. As you add heat the rotor (e.g., from braking) this can cause any out-of-true deflection to be more pronounced causing it to touch the brake pad with more force and hence a more pronounced sound.  In terms of you only hearing the noise at speed, you may have braked earlier adding heat which increased the rotor deflection. &lt;strong&gt;When you hear the sound, stop, spin your rear wheel and look to see if the rotor is running true or has a deflection.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look to @Jackson's answer for some remedies (i.e., caliper alignment, are the pads fully retracting, getting the rotor trued).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a rim and or tire that are not running true should not impact the operation of your disc brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T16:06:44.273" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T16:06:44.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32362" CreationDate="2015-07-30T16:09:13.370" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having done both, I'd say they are about equally dangerous with the edge going to downhill biking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easier to gain momentum on a downhill bike and harder to properly lose it.  Additionally equipment failure is a bigger concern and generally more catastrophic.  Downhill biking in the winter pads the ground (like skiing) but, during all seasons, trees are an ever present danger.  Losing control and hitting an unmoving object at 30 mph will generally have a bad outcome.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a parent myself, I expect I'll probably downhill bike with my children at some point. As long as they work on learning control at slower speeds first and learn how fast and hard to press their limits they'll probably be fine.  Most of the injuries I have seen downhill biking have been with younger kids trying to ride way above their ability level.  The group of older guys I ride with are rarely (if ever) injured.  We generally ride right at our ability level and maintain control.  That being said, none of us are ever going pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation, if you are just trying to maintain consistency AND have already decided downhill skiing is out (based solely on risk) then I'd say you should probably exclude downhill biking as well.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T16:09:13.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T18:20:30.453" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a new cyclocross bike, very good very handsome. 2 days ago I rode it on quite a rough road composed only from rocks. Two punctures (slow leaking ones, cause only realised after coming home 2 hours later, tire was a little quite deflated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a patching kit. Patched as usual. I used to have a mountain bike, so I think I patched it well. But this time, with the CX tires, I ended up with two annoying (and very uncomfortable to ride) dented inwards tires. If you try to rotate the tire, you see a single dent on each of the tire. So ... I think it must be coming from where I patched it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your thoughts on this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you patch a narrow tire, don't glue the whole patch to the tire, glue only a small part, touching a puncture. Couple of millimeters in diameter. Cause if you do, you might end up with the tire tightened at the place of patching, and when inflated, it will have smaller diameter. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Well, first described pretty much everything.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I buy a new tire? (I think I will anyway, this bulge is punching my bike like hell with every revolution.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be careful next time? How?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just in general, suggestions for patching small tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20823" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T22:01:00.003" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T22:22:44.610" Title="Cyclocross tyre patching problems, bulging inwards" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32387" CreationDate="2015-07-30T19:44:27.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you inflated the tire and the tire itself is indented at times, it is likely that you did not seat the tire correctly.  This means the tire bead is not sitting correctly in the rim.  The rim should have hooks to catch the tire bead. The tube should expand to many times its original size and will fill the volume made available to it.  As such, a tire that is not seated properly will present a different radius to fill making it look like the tire is indented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try deflating the tire so that is has a very low pressure then squeeze and pull on the tire to try and get it to seat properly.  Re-inflate, then check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also sometimes a high pressure can make the tire seat correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if your rim tape has slipped it can interfere with the tire seating correctly.  Check to make sure the tape is in the proper location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T19:44:27.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32170" CreationDate="2015-07-30T19:51:51.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to say one word to you. Just one word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rollers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding off road will help too, but learning to ride rollers comfortably will take your balance to another level and greatly enhance your ability to recover from the unexpected: blowouts, sand, getting bumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastEditorUserId="15761" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T15:43:28.763" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T15:43:28.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24389" CreationDate="2015-07-30T20:09:53.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;SPD-SL is harder to clip out of than SPD (MTB style), it's just a fact of how it was designed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It improves slightly with time but it will never be as easy as SPD. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10723" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T20:09:53.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32364" CreationDate="2015-07-30T20:33:59.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just off the picture I'd say it's fine. Aluminum is more durable than many people think (you know they build airplanes out of the stuff?!) That said, I would carefully look at the areas where the tubes are welded together. Use a bright light and look for any small, hairline cracks in the paint. Most of the aluminum bikes I've seen fail usually snap at the welds (outside of horrible crashes of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T20:33:59.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32364" CreationDate="2015-07-30T20:57:20.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that's fine to ride. Seems like got created by applying distributed pressure over a pretty big area. Therefore no chipped paint etc. Even if that cracks apart, I wouldn't expect the entire bike to fall apart immediately, you still have the lower tube supporting stuff together:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20224" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T20:57:20.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32170" CreationDate="2015-07-30T21:07:35.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can recommend a very good book on mastering mtb skills (some transferable to any other kind of bike of course). Brian Lopes, Lee McCormack - Mastering mountain bike skills. I especially like the chapter on cornering. Plus you can start learning bike trials. Like mentioned before, start from track stand or cradle, then learn pivots on front and back wheel. Those can be done on almost any bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standing on a swissball is also a great exercise for improved balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/30Ip6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/30Ip6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20224" LastEditorUserId="20224" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T21:13:39.843" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T21:13:39.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32369" CreationDate="2015-07-30T21:54:34.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you said you replaced your old one, I assume you have to tools to remove it. If that's the case, rather than jump to the conclusion that you need to replace it again, take it off, clean the threads and put some grease there, put it on again. This should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20224" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T02:58:19.330" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T02:58:19.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32363" CreationDate="2015-07-30T21:56:37.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally hate panniers on my bike, especially the front, so I would certainly go the trailer route and make the bike one I could race with.  Racing bikes are generally divided into two or three types.  Criterium bikes are the most twitchy and stiffest, often with very low handlebars.  Road racing bikes are a bit mellower, like what riders use on the Tour de France.  Some manufacturers sell Paris-Roubaix bikes built a bit tougher and often with some sort of shock-absorbing construction to make the ride more comfortable but with the same geometry as the road racing bikes.  Any of these bikes would be capable of the 1850 mile ride you're going to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be nice to get a reversible stem so that it's easy to have the handlebars higher for the long rides and lower for racing.  For longer distances I like the bars approximately level with the saddle or an inch lower than the saddle.  For racing I like them about 4 inches below the saddle height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For frame materials, carbon fiber is king.  I've ridden steel, aluminum, titanium, and carbon and there's something about carbon that allows it to be stiff and compliant at the same time.  Of course it's expensive; you can't have everything.  Steel and titanium are close seconds, so if you're on a budget, go for steel.  Aluminum can be okay, but it's a harsh ride compared to the others so the long rides will be more fatiguing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More important than frame materials are the brakes and shifters.  Ultegra is my minimum and if I can't get a new bike with Ultegra at the price I need, then I would buy used.  105 is functional too (I haven't tried the 11sp 105 so I can't pass judgement on that), but I would rather ride a harsh aluminum frame with Ultegra than a nice carbon frame with anything less than 105.  To be clear - Ultegra = great, 105 = good, Tiagra and under = unacceptable.  Maybe I'm elitist, whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got my wife a new (previous year) carbon BMC with Ultegra for $1800, just as a point of reference for pricing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps and I hope you have a good trip on your new bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19298" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T21:56:37.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32387" CreationDate="2015-07-30T22:22:44.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing I would suspect is that you somehow installed the tube incorrectly, maybe twisted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you may have installed the tube before the glue dried and failed to dust the patch with talc, causing it to stick to the inside of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the tube may have been too small from the start, and the patches are keeping it from stretching enough to fill out the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T22:22:44.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32374" CreationDate="2015-07-31T01:52:33.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beyond rebuilding the frame with a tapered headset, not practical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effectively you need to fit an 1.5&quot; OD tube into a 1.125&quot; ID hole. This could theoretically be done by using a spacer and locating the taper part of the steerer under the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect would be raise the headset height and change the bikes geometry. The advantages of the tapered headset would be negated very quickly by the changed geometry, and the loss of stiffness and extra weight using a spacer would offset all the advantages of a tapered headset. i.e. The bike would be less stiff, heavier and have a poorer geometry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T01:52:33.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T03:13:28.130" Score="6" ViewCount="2631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently riding an entry level carbon road bike (Fuji Gran Fondo 2.5, compact 50/34 crankset, 105 group, 12/30 10 speed, Oval 327 wheels, but I suspect the details are not important-you have all seen similar bikes on club rides)  My typical ride is 30 miles and 1500 feet of climbing (as reported by Strava, if I add up the hills they are not this high) in 2 hours, so I am not a speed burner.  The Gran Fondo is promoted as an &quot;old guy's&quot; (which I am) bike-the head tube is a bit longer (only 1/2 inch) than standard so you sit more upright, you get (my year, not now) the 30 tooth on the rear and the tires are 25 instead of 23.  Will another bike blow me away if I ride it a short distance (5 miles) on the flat?  How much time can I save at the same power input over the 30 mile ride? Let's pretend I have no budget limitation, I just want the fastest (easily available commercially) road bike for my use.  How much faster is it than what I have?  What would you look for? Don't send me looking for an 11 tooth on the cassette-I rarely use the 50/12.  You need to send me to a class descending hills faster first.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added based on Craig Hicks answer:&#xA;I have inverted the stem, which probably counteracts the longer head tube of the bike I have.  I didn't notice any difference in comfort.  I could take a couple spacers out of the the head tube to lower the bars another inch.  I did a high end fit with my LBS with some comfort improvement but no speed.  I suspect the biggest speed increase I could buy would be race tires that have less rubber so less flexure loss on the road at a price of durability.  That is what I was looking for, what should I look for and how much would it speed me up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastEditorUserId="10998" LastEditDate="2017-12-18T05:43:50.687" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T05:43:50.687" Title="How much speed can I buy" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32400" CreationDate="2015-07-31T04:58:35.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can plug some numbers in &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecalculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bikecalculator.com/&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm&lt;/a&gt; (thanks @Michael) and see what they say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Juggle the figures (your weight, bike weight, etc) a bit until what it says matches your results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now guess the weight of a new bike. Not much speed difference huh?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now assume that the better position, transmission, wheels and tires add 10 watts to your effective power input. That will probably add about .5 to .6 mph (1kph) to your speed. Check how position changes the results!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now add the &lt;em&gt;I got a fantastic new bike&lt;/em&gt; factor. Figure that at another 10 watts. Your guess is as good as mine. So you'll probably see 1 to 1.5mph (1.6 to 2.4kph) improvement for short rides such as you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you've scientifically demonstrated (with known assumptions) what you'll get for your money. It might be better to just train more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if, as you say, &lt;em&gt;pretend I have no budget limitation&lt;/em&gt;, then go for it. Follow the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;N+1 rule&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T06:02:23.240" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T06:02:23.240" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32364" CreationDate="2015-07-31T12:51:25.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a very minor dent but horizontal mid tube is not a good spot. Creasing a tube does reduce the strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hard landing or hard bump is where that would likely be the first point of failure.  Even if that section has lost 50% strength it would take a lot for the bike to fail. The rest of the frame is there and even 50% strength on that section is a lot as most bikes will take a lot. If you land hard enough to bend that frame you are probably going to crash anyway. Frames that break or bend were typically crashed hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your body landed on the top tube that would be the first point of failure but if you land on the tube hard enough to bend it then ouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you stress aluminum past the yield point it does fail rapidly but not technically catastrophically (it does bend not snap),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at this video for the just ridding along (jra) scenario.  That dent is like the opposite of the jra scenario.  But is shows you that it takes a lot.  Notice once it deforms then it fails petty rapidly - that dent is the start point for the deformation. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xreZdUBqpJs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pinkbike Visits The Santa Cruz Test Lab Video&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary I ride it but I just don't ride it hard and don't do jumps. It would take a hard crash for it to fail. I don't foresee any scenario where it fails on a ruff section and causes you to crash.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T12:51:25.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31331" CreationDate="2015-07-31T13:05:43.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That doesn't look like a screw on freewheel hub, that's an 8 speed freehub designed for a slide on cassette. I have the same one. Its the older design called Exa drive. When Campagnolo went to 9 speed the shape of the spines were changed and made deeper. This is why your conversions kit doesnt work , as its designed for the newer style freehubs. See the page below &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://branfordbike.com/articles/cassettes-and-cogs-pg60.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://branfordbike.com/articles/cassettes-and-cogs-pg60.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately you cannot just swap the freehub body for a newer 9/10/11 speed one as the axles are different sizes. You either need to buy a newer style campagnolo hub, or you can take a cog from a Campagnolo 8 speed cassette and use spacers either side. You may find the chain jumps of the cassette cog though as the teeth are not as deep as a dedicated single speed cog. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're buyng a new hub/wheel for single speed you may even want to buy a Shimano one as they are cheaper and single speed cogs are more widely available in a range of sizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20835" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T13:05:43.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32400" CreationDate="2015-07-31T14:12:27.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/32401/424&quot;&gt;andy256's suggestion&lt;/a&gt; a lot, but I must add some. The way I see it more money will buy you either or both two things that affect your speed (1):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less weight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less power loss between pedals and road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecalculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Andy 256's link&lt;/a&gt; will easily let you vary (1) directly to see what it gets you, to vary (2) you need to change the watts figure you input at the top within a reasonable range. I'm not sure what the total power loss between the pedals and the road for a typical bike is, but my gut feeling is that an entry-level road-bike such as yours will have about 90% transmission efficiency (assuming good maintenance, proper tire pressure, etc.), doubling to quadrupling your spend will get you to about 94%, and I think the absolute limit is in the 95%-97% range. The top end I base off of the fact that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hupi.org/HParchive/PDF/hp55/hp55p11-15.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a good transmission system alone has a transmission efficiency of about 97%&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If absolute speed is your goal then I can think of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liposuction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ways&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doping_in_sport&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physical_exercise&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;might&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Personal_trainer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;also&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altitude_tent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spend&lt;/a&gt; your money (and time) other than a more expensive bike to achieve that (and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vivax-assist.com/en/produkte/vivax-assist-4-0/vivax-assist_4-0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt; unconventional &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/ca/en/bikes/ebike/turbo-s/turbo-x&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bike&lt;/a&gt; options).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) &lt;em&gt;It will also buy you more or less durability, easier or more difficult maintenance besides a host of less tangible/certain benefits depending on how much you spend and what you spend it on.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T14:12:27.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32408" CreationDate="2015-07-31T15:00:54.650" Score="3" ViewCount="1518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had bought this set a while back and I eventually managed to replace them the other day, but... It didn't work! The length of the bar is too short to reach the end of the new grips, i don't know where to buy a metal bar, and even if I do, it'll cost a lot to get them and have them cut in two small pieces as attachments to these grips. I noticed this thread reel is tight enough if I squeeze into the vertical attachment from one side and the main bar from the other, but I'm not sure if it's strong enough. Is there any other way I can get around with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W3z6R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;too long!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5B8ns.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ItXmN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;done!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12815" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T17:36:30.380" Title="Replacing the handlebar grips with ergonomic ones?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;&lt;grips&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32405" CreationDate="2015-07-31T15:16:02.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can move the brake and shift levers inward. They are tightened around the handlebar with hex bolts or screws, you can loosen these and move the parts around. If the result feels too narrow, you can change to a wider handlebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: See the other answer for solution with grip shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="10595" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T17:36:30.380" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T17:36:30.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2015-07-31T15:45:10.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know Im a little late for this posting but this is the first time I came across such question. I do own a Trek Lime, purchased back in 2007. This is a fully automatic bicycle. It has 3 speeds a front hub dynamo (speed sensor), a shifter module-solenoid (computer) under the center frame, and the 3 speed auto-shifter hub in the rear wheel. &#xA;As far as I know there has always been autoshifting bikes out there, they're rare and not very cheap, but a joy to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20836" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T15:45:10.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32405" CreationDate="2015-07-31T15:49:23.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a little hard to tell from your photos, but do you have grip shifters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For setups with grip shifters, the grips are generally much shorter / narrower, as part of the &quot;grip surface&quot; is the shifter itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do indeed have grip shifters, you can do as ojs suggested &amp;amp; move the shifters / brakes in towards the stem, or, you could return the grips you purchased &amp;amp; get something sized properly to work with grip shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the difference in width of these grips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmXWy.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmXWy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Grips&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The ones on the left are made to work with trigger shifters, while the  ones on the right are made to work with grip shifters. For reference, some examples of grips meant for use with grip shifters can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_keywords_6?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;amp;rh=n%3A3375251%2Cn%3A%213375301%2Cn%3A706814011%2Cn%3A3403201%2Cn%3A3404731%2Cn%3A6389387011%2Cn%3A3494261%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4594458011&amp;amp;bbn=3494261&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1438357213&amp;amp;rnid=2765729011&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit: I'd avoid the thread spool idea. Go over an unexpected bump while resting on the bar ends &amp;amp; they pop off because they were secured with a thread spool... loose control &amp;amp; crash!!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T15:49:23.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10381" CreationDate="2015-07-31T16:55:27.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the Nuvinci system has been mentioned in other answers, I'll mention one more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRAM makes the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/urban/products/automatix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Automatix hub&lt;/a&gt; now. It's a 2 speed system (ratios 1:1, 1:1.37) with a centrifugal clutch. There's no manual shifting possible and no cables involved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T16:55:27.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T17:11:51.597" Score="3" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thinking on buying this very lightweight track frame that is very similar in looks to those beautiful takhion pursuit frames from the urss 80's. I was told that brazilian cycling federation bought four of those frames in the late 90's for competing at a Pan Am and that's it, no more relevant info. The guy who holds the frame believed for some mysterious idea that this was a colnago frame and to me it makes absolute no sense since i've never heard of italian frames with similar geometry. My guess is south american, but I don't believe the italian threaded bb would match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a 26.8mm seatpost and i could not find anything stamped on the dropouts neither on the bottom bracket or fork. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fxTYb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fxTYb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fNiI0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fNiI0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OQw15.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OQw15.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jlkd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3jlkd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IBCp0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IBCp0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVtBR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVtBR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZEOXp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZEOXp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aa8a1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aa8a1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20723" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T17:11:51.597" Title="takhion-esque track frame identification!" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32380" CreationDate="2015-07-31T17:41:32.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the comments above, it seems that it really is a free wheel that is making the noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently cheap free wheels can be like that. Lubing them can help. This discussion has some extra info: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/fixed-single-speed/fix-shimano-freewheel-clunking-noises-150432.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.roadbikereview.com/fixed-single-speed/fix-shimano-freewheel-clunking-noises-150432.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR version: Get some gear oil or grease gun and apply liberally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19611" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T17:41:32.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T19:37:28.697" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought new Chinese Carbon 50mm tubular wheels and I have a number of noises that are driving me crazy.  There is a whistling or irregular whooshing sound on every rotation.  Besides the normal white noise constant.  Is it just me or do other people have irregular sounds at speed over 16mph.  Wheels are true and round with new mavic tubulars.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if anyone else has a rotation noise issue.   My aluminum campy wheels are dead quiet.  Thanks. Ken &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20838" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T19:33:10.867" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T19:33:10.867" Title="Irregular sounds on new 50mm wheels at speeds over 16mph" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32400" CreationDate="2015-07-31T21:06:36.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A bicycle in and of itself is a half of the equation.  If you want to eek out as much speed as you can you also need to consider how you interact with the machine.  This answer focuses on the human/bike interaction rather tweaking bike specs.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike fit is a continual compromise between power, comfort, and aerodynamics (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.ca/Bike-Fit-Optimise-performance-avoidance/dp/1408190303&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bike Fit by Phil Burke&lt;/a&gt;). Simply plugging specs into a worksheet will not give you insight into these types of compromises.  New high-end bikes can be problematic as they are often very aggressive.  As you get older if you compromise the comfort dimension too much your power can drop of substantially.  You may be more aerodynamic, but you can end up slower due to a drop in sustainable power! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Flat Land Speed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of absolute speed on flat cutting down your frontal area (i.e., aerodynamic drag) will go a long way to increasing your speed. There are lots of little tweaks you can do to your current setup if it is currently fitting you well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighter fitting clothing (any flapping clothing = aerodynamic resistance).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TT bars are another big aerodynamic gain (don't use on a group ride though).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supple fast rolling tires pumped to the appropriate pressure.  (This isn't always the max pressure and can change from tire-to-tire.  You really need to experiment here)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tweaking your current position to further optimize the aero/power/comfort relationship.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive train gearing&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighter  gearing ratios (aka a smaller range in the rear cassette). This can let you fine tune your cadence more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Big/big combinations are more efficient that Big/small gearing combinations for a given chain line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maintaining your drive train!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Climbing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here a lighter bike will help, but also more appropriate gearing is very important (aka low enough to spin up all the climbs).  As &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/32401/424&quot;&gt;Andy256 suggested&lt;/a&gt; you an play with some calculators.  But again &lt;strong&gt;I will harp on bike fit&lt;/strong&gt;. Do you have the hand positions available to put you in a open upright climbing position so you can breath properly? Are your shoulders, neck and back relaxed on climbs.  Do you have enough hand positions (i.e.,drops) so that you can comfortably get in the drops on decent and faster sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Going up to get down&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day I finally admitted to myself that I could not ride the slammed positions of my youth and revised my cockpit putting myself in a more upright position.  The result of this is that I am much more comfortable on the hoods and can crank out the climbs at a harder pace.  I can also &lt;strong&gt;use my drops a lot more now&lt;/strong&gt; as the higher hood position this give my back a change of position it now needs. My drop position is still quite aerodynamic position and I can spend a lot more time in the drop position than I have been able to in the past.  Overall I don't think my aerodynamics has been too adversely affected as I am using the drops a lot more than even when I was younger (then I used to just use them in crits, sprints and pursuits).  I wish I had taken more measurements when I was younger to confirm or refute this thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest taking time to investigate how bike your current fit compliments your bio-mechanics before delving into the quest for new gear.  You might be surprised how many gains you can find!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T12:43:38.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2015-07-31T21:23:43.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big boned and tall guy, currently at 270lbs, which is about 30 pounds more than I want to weigh. I have an older Cannondale Jekyll with full suspension. I had heavier springs installed in the front forks and at the rear is a Fox air shock that has held up fine so far. I'm pretty sure I surpass the bike's weight capacity and it concerns me, but the guy at the bike shop said don't worry about it. I mainly ride it on the street, jumping off curbs and hitting lots of ruts and bumps and so far, no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20839" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T21:23:43.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32417" CreationDate="2015-07-31T22:55:17.857" Score="3" ViewCount="1209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although my rear derailleur is properly indexed it's suddenly started to double or even triple shift on an upshift - i.e. when moving to harder, smaller cogs on the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens whether I'm riding or even if the bike is completely stationary and I'm only moving the shifter in isolation - I can feel and see the display on the hood jump 2-3 positions.  It only happens in what would be the mid positions of the cassette - the very bottom gear and the top few gears aren't affected when I shift up from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downshifts to larger, easier cogs are completely unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried peeling back the brake hood and giving the mechanism a good blast of penetrating lubricant but to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this likely to be a shifter only problem and what if anything can I do to rectify it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20840" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T12:12:16.133" Title="Shimano Claris shifter double/triple shifting up (when moving to smaller, harder cogs) on the rear derailleur" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32415" CreationDate="2015-07-31T23:48:12.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you remove the cable tension, do you get the right number of clicks for the shifter? If not, you may have a broken pawl or gummed up pawl. If blasting with wd-40 doesn't work, you need to get a new shifter, cause taking apart a brifter and putting it back again is hard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the derailleur bent? It isn't possible to adjust a bent derailleur satisfactorially. To unbend it properly, you need a special &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tool&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the chain worn? If so, get a new chain. Check with a gauge. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the cassette worn? If so, get a new cassette. And probably a new chain, for good measure. See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; on chain + cassette wear. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the derailleur adjusted properly? The cables do slip over time, and you may need to readjust them. Follow the directions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the cable slipping or have excess friction or under too much or too little tension? You can clamp down the cable and/or replace it. You can also get weird things if your frame flexes enough to pull the cable, e.g. if you have under-bottom bracket shift cable routing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T23:48:12.867" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-01T00:06:11.027" Score="0" ViewCount="1187" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the bike I'm interested in buying: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=1998&amp;amp;brand=LeMond&amp;amp;model=Buenos+Aires&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=1998&amp;amp;brand=LeMond&amp;amp;model=Buenos+Aires&lt;/a&gt;.  The bike is in good condition upon inspection and a test drive.  Is it worth $450?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What things do I need to look out for when buying such a bike?  If I were to get it, what should I look out for when using it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20842" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T16:46:39.860" Title="Is a used 1998 LeMond Buenos Aires worth $450?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;used-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-08-01T17:01:07.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32418" CreationDate="2015-08-01T00:27:53.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a well speced bike, Reynolds tubing is top quality. Given the 1998 price tag of $1300, I would say the current price is good. It will be harder to ride than a modern bike, but not by too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch out for rust around the bottom bracket covers and cable stops. Early model carbon forks can wear also. It's 8 speed, so still easy to buy chains and cassettes for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastEditorUserId="20322" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T09:30:46.250" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T09:30:46.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2015-08-01T01:47:24.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As many others have said, you're not really in the &quot;extreme&quot; weight range. There are many quality bikes that will do just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said there are three things that are worthy of your attention:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your wheels – if the spokes are not tensioned evenly and are not tight enough the wheel is likely to be unstable and you're also more likely to break spokes. A new bike from a reputable shop should have the wheels properly trued and tensioned – and the wheels should be covered by the warranty. If the bike is used, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have the wheels checked.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your seat – having your seat properly adjusted will go a long way towards making riding a pleasant experience, but it is also possible that the seat that comes with the bike is the wrong shape for you. If you're buying the bike locally that would be something to bring up with the sales person. They may be able to steer you to a better seat from the beginning. In any case it seems that many shops sell parts like seats and stems with a reasonable return policy. It takes time to know if the part is right and they are willing to exchange them if they don't fit right. Just keep the packaging and receipts and try to be nice to them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Similarly with the stem – it is fashionable on many bikes to have the bars too low. If you're buying a bike new see if you can get the steering tube left long until you know where you want the bars. You can also get extensions to help get the bars up to a more comfortable position.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that it should be possible to make your bike quite comfortable. If it isn't the problem is much more likely the fit of the bike than you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T01:47:24.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-01T02:30:25.820" Score="3" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some googling turns up a chinatown bus company (&quot;focus transit&quot;), but I called and they no longer go to Philly.  Anyone else taking bikes in the luggage bay as of summer 2015?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20844" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T14:34:39.957" Title="Are there any bus companies that take bikes and go between Washington DC and Philadelphia?" Tags="&lt;public-transportation&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32418" CreationDate="2015-08-01T02:36:39.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say probably &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspxhttp://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchListingDetail.aspx?id=79090&amp;amp;make=697&amp;amp;model=47597&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;not&lt;/a&gt; unless it's been significantly upgraded.  I am always wary buying used carbon, but used carbon that is far more than a decade old would worry me.  If the fork (in particular) goes, you'll likely be paying more than the worth of the bike to replace it, even with a cheaper non carbon fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T02:36:39.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32267" CreationDate="2015-08-01T02:54:33.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Shimano Ultegra 6800 wheelset (11 speed) to put on a 10 speed 105 5700 bike. The wheel came with a 1.85mm spacer. However you need to slightly adjust the derailleur and the rim brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7990" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T02:54:33.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-01T03:08:48.937" Score="3" ViewCount="1450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old cruiser bike that I paid $100 for. The tire popped and the other has a flat but other than that it's ridable. Any way I can sell it? And if so, best website/company to sell it to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20799" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T08:39:26.953" Title="Best way to sell cheap/damaged bike" Tags="&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10544" CreationDate="2015-08-01T03:24:37.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a trike that was single speed; I found it very difficult to ride on an upgrade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've converted it to five speed with a Sturmey Archer kit and it made a world of a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love to ride a bicycle, however at age 75, my balance is not very good anymore, that is why I've switched to a trike. I would never tell you to ride a trike, my preference is a bicycle unless you have physical limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20845" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T05:34:24.637" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T05:34:24.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32418" CreationDate="2015-08-01T16:46:39.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a LeMond Zurich of similar vintage (2000). Bike is a dream to ride. To me, that's a fair price ... and you get to ride a bike with a true champion's name on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20851" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T16:46:39.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32424" CreationDate="2015-08-01T17:41:32.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would put a note on the local message board, like the one in the school or the local supermarket, or the online version like Craiglist.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Most likely you will not get anything if people have to pay for transport, selling really local might be the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But fixing the tires and cleaning it up might double the money you can get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An other option is to keep it for when you can get a discount on a new bike on handing in an old one. Not sure that one comes around when you have a bike to get off your hands, but when there is one it will bring more for your bike than any private sale of an old bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T17:41:32.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2047" CreationDate="2015-08-01T18:32:21.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a M8 1.0 nut. I found out the hard way because all the hardware store has was a M8 1.25, so I bought it and the threads were way too coarse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20854" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T18:32:21.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-01T22:35:47.040" Score="10" ViewCount="1279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a biking amateur, but I've been wanting to upgrade and get more serious.  Just recently, I was gifted a pretty new bike and I'm wanting to figure out how BSO it is so I can either upgrade it or get rid of it get a new, nicer bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I check to tell how much of this bike is cheap BSO material and how much will last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really like a part-by-part list so I can replace them or decide if it's not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20857" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T22:49:05.413" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T22:49:05.413" Title="BSO identification for amateurs" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;bso&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-02T00:19:32.917" Score="4" ViewCount="4493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two KMC X10 SL chains that I never ended up using. I got my new bike, which came with a KMC X11 chain (the bike is Specialized Diverge Comp). I am wondering if I can use the X10 chain on this bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20858" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T12:42:07.293" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T08:26:59.733" Title="Use a KMC X10 SL chain on an 11 Speed cassette?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;specialized-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32429" CreationDate="2015-08-02T03:03:54.417" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It used to be easier to tell BSOs from &quot;real&quot; bikes, but now the technology is changing so rapidly, and it's much harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bike older than about 20 years, one would first look at the frame, in two places:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The joints.  Better quality frames would be &quot;lugged&quot;, with the steel tubes brazed into fittings (called lugs) that secured the joints.  Cheap frames would just have the tubes welded together.  (Welding, as used then, would destroy the thin, high-strength steel used in better frames.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dropouts.  Cheap frames would have rear dropouts that were quite clearly just stamped from sheet metal, while the front dropouts would be similar, or would simply be slots cut in the ends of the flattened fork tubes.  Better quality would use forged dropouts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days the dropouts are still a tell, but not nearly as reliable as before.  And frames are often made of materials other than steel, and even steel can now be welded, using a rapid-weld process originally developed for aluminum frames.  (Though a good-quality lugged steel frame is still a thing of beauty.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than the frame, the most obvious identifier of low quality is a one-piece crank.  This was true 20 years ago and is still true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I'll take that back -- one more thing:  Twist shifters are highly suspect.  They are cheap and have an extraordinarily high failure rate.  There presumably are some good quality twist shifters, but they're the exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make that two more things:  With a multi-speed bottom bracket, check the material used to make the chainrings.  Very often BSOs have steel rather than aluminum chainrings.  A better quality bike may have a steel &quot;granny&quot; ring, but the others would be aluminum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastEditorUserId="1584" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T02:29:39.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T02:29:39.697" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32433" CreationDate="2015-08-02T06:07:55.733" Score="0" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello I'd like to show you my fork, is it compatible with shimano m355 non series hydraulic brakes?&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l5Qeu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l5Qeu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/reQvV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/reQvV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20694" LastEditorUserId="20694" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T07:58:10.910" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T17:33:43.557" Title="Is my fork disc compatible?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32432" CreationDate="2015-08-02T06:34:25.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your fork is disc compatible, but your hub is not. The fork appears to have mounting points for the older 51mm I.S. disk brake standard. See &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikeman.com/bicycle-repair-tech-info/bikeman-tech-info/1638-51mm-international-standard-74mm-post-mount&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.bikeman.com/bicycle-repair-tech-info/bikeman-tech-info/1638-51mm-international-standard-74mm-post-mount&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for examples of the two most common styles of disk brake mounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="8445" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T17:33:43.557" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T17:33:43.557" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32432" CreationDate="2015-08-02T06:36:07.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think so, it is hard for me to judge scale in this photo, but those look more like fender/rack eyelets. One check would be to see if there were matching attachment points on the other side of the fork. If there are that would be a good sign that these are not mounting points for disk brakes. A clearer photo and a something for scale would help too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T06:36:07.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-02T11:05:31.803" Score="1" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a BTwin Triban 3 which has a triple chainset that needs replacing. I am thinking of replacing it with a double chainset this time. Is this possible, or do I need new shifters and a different rear cassette? Could someone please link me to a good tutorial that will show me how to replace the chainset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20862" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T16:42:58.780" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T17:15:06.387" Title="Can I install a double chainset on a bike that was originally designed for a triple chainset?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32443" CreationDate="2015-08-02T14:31:00.537" Score="13" ViewCount="2229" Body="&lt;p&gt;To clarify, I am asking this for my wife!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blog articles and other webpages differ on the question of the safety of pregnant cycling.  Most seem to think that it is okay, but some think that a pregnant woman's balance will become skewed in late pregnancy.  Does anyone have experience or knowledge that would shed light on how concerned we ought to be about that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sample of webpages: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/beginners/gear/article/cycling-while-pregnant-tips-and-advice-39306/&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/pregnancy-and-baby/pages/pregnancy-exercise.aspx#close&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt; (there are more but I have insufficient reputation to post them all)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, does anyone have advice about comfort for pregnant cycling - does it get uncomfortable on a bicycle for a pregnant woman and are there good ways to mitigate against that?  And is the baby well cushioned against vibrations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snippets of wisdom as well as full answers appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20864" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T10:40:54.353" Title="Tips for cycling while pregnant, and is it safe?" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;women-specific&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32421" CreationDate="2015-08-02T14:34:39.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that Focus Transit actually goes between DC and Philly still.  The guy on the other end of the phone didn't know what he was talking about when I called.  They take bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20844" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T14:34:39.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32435" CreationDate="2015-08-02T15:07:00.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need a new bottom bracket with a different axle length, a new crankset of course, front derailleur and matching shifter. Since you'll probably need to buy a complete set of brifters it will be quite an expense. And while you're at it you'll probably have to get new cable housings and cables for the brakes. Not to mention new bar tape. At least you can keep the rear derailleur  and  the cassette if the resulting new gears suit you, but you may need a new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if your triple has less than 10 gears on the cassette you'll probably have to find an older double crankset and matching shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;INMHO I would keep the bike as it is because the expense will be quite hefty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T15:07:00.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32435" CreationDate="2015-08-02T17:15:06.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, are you really sure the crankset needs replacing? Maybe you just need new chainrings. It takes a lot of riding to wear out a crankset, like 10000 kilometers at least. If you've done enough riding to wear out a crankset, you will likely need to replace the rear cassette and chain at the same time. If you are maintaining the bike at all, you should get at least 4 or 5 chains and one&#xA;rear cassette replacement before you need to even look at replacing the front&#xA;chainrings. Even a low end bottom bracket should last 20-30K km's, and the cranks themselves should last nearly the life of the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What problem are you having that makes you think you need to replace the entire&#xA;crankset? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really do need a new crankset, or just want different gears,&#xA;it's quite possible that all you would need to replace is the crankset.&#xA;However, it's not guaranteed to work, you are attempting to do something&#xA;that is not in the manufacturers recommended use. Often this works out&#xA;just fine since bicycles are pretty forgiving machines, much depends on&#xA;how tolerant you are of slightly imperfect or slow shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two good sites for learning to work on your own bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.sheldonbrown.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.parktool.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly what you'll need to replace will depend what new gears you choose. &#xA;The key measurements are the chainline of the new crankset and the size of the&#xA;small and large chainrings and the clearance of the derailleur. A triple derailleur often has a shape that will not work well with double chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bicycles are very tolerant machines and you can do a lot of bodging to make things work that are not guaranteed to work out of the box. However, converting&#xA;a triple to a double is not a good introductory project. There have been a lot &#xA;of changes in bottom brackets, cranksets and shifters in the last 10 years and exactly what works with what can be quite tricky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T17:15:06.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32436" CreationDate="2015-08-02T17:45:22.583" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike riding horses, there are no body movements that are dangerous for pregnant cyclists in any stage of pregnancy when riding on roads. Mountain cycling is not as safe and I would certainly talk that over with a Dr or midwife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risks are mostly the same as any other road user in your area. How do car behave around cyclists and how safe are the roads and paths for cycling. The risks of falling and being hit by a car are greater, the chances of it happening not much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Netherlands all or almost all pregnant women ride through most of their pregnancies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to add that most Dutch women ride bikes to get places, the percentage riding bikes for sports is much lower, although likely still higher than in many other countries. I do not see cycling as sport but as transport.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There is an old joke in the Netherlands: How do you transport five children on one bike? One in a seat on the handle bars, two on the rack on the back and the other two in mommies bellies. (Only work with twins, of course.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This was nothing special back in the days and now it is quite common to see mothers transporting two kids and have one on the way, families with four or more are rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T18:39:48.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T18:39:48.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32445" CreationDate="2015-08-02T17:49:32.263" Score="3" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if I would be able to run the 105 5800 crankset with my 9 speed ultegra 5600 shifters/rd?  I don't have the funds to do the whole groupset at once, and I believe upgrading to 11 speed would also mean that I need to get a new rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more info / related questions:  I have an 05 roubaix that has Ultegra 5600 Brakes/shifters and cassette/RD, and an fsa gossamer 52/39 crankset.  the front derailleur has 3 positions although I just have 2 chainrings.  the front derailleur shifts pretty terribly and the chain drops frequently when i shift down.  do most front derailleurs have 3 positions even when there are only 2 chainrings?  I set it up so that I can use the middle position to get away with some cross-chaining, but should I be doing this at all?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20866" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T23:27:08.027" Title="crankset compatability" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-02T22:04:02.950" Score="2" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting into the biking world and I am in the market for a better bike than my current Huffy bike. I'm looking on Craigslist and I came across a 1980 Schwinn World Traveler bike for $120. Obviously I will be trying to talk down the price but is this going to be a solid bike? Or should I shop around a little more and find something better. If it helps I can post the link to the craigslist page. Thanks for the help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20867" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T01:38:48.413" Title="Just getting into biking" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32436" CreationDate="2015-08-02T22:38:20.480" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would have to be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;one of the most opinion-based questions we could possibly have, and&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;one of the most important to deal with in a sensible manner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, it must be said that what is safe depends on the woman's own behavioral history, and the state of the pregnancy. She certainly should not be taking up &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; active sports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some competitive sports ban &lt;em&gt;obviously&lt;/em&gt; pregnant women from participating, not through any risk to the woman or child, but because she has two advantages. She has a greater blood supply, and competitors are likely to &quot;go easy&quot;. I recall this was the case when I played competitive squash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mother of my children cycled (on a road bike) until month seven in both pregnancies. With her extra blood supply, she would leave me behind on the hills! She only stopped when her belly was hitting the top bar. It should be said that both pregnancies were completely normal. She did discuss cycling with her Ob, who agreed that since she was already a cyclist, she could continue, but that she should &lt;em&gt;be sensible&lt;/em&gt; and stop if problems developed. She cycled about 60km (38 mi) in 3 or so rides per week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She did find her balance changed. By doing the activity continuously, she adapted to that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendations are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Listen to the obstetrician. You chose this person for their guidance, for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Only cycle if already a regular, confident cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Always ride in familiar, safe places, and with a buddy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ignore those who use emotional blackmail in their arguments. This is an emotive topic; it needs clear factual arguments to form a balanced decision.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Every activity involves risk, including no activity, and being wrapped in cotton wool.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS The great Sheldon Brown's alter ego Carapace Completed Umber also wrote about &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/carapace-2.html#preggers&quot;&gt;Riding while pregnant&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T23:12:42.770" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T23:12:42.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32441" CreationDate="2015-08-02T23:17:17.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;11 speed chain rings will be slightly narrower than 9 speed. So they will work, but it's not an ideal pairing. You should be able to keep your rear wheel and replace the 9 speed cassette with an 11. The dropout width hasn't changes, the gears have just got thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what you mean by front derailleur having 3 positions. It swings through a fixed distance, it is the shifter that determines if there are 2 or 3 indexed points to stop at. A 3 speed shifter isn't going to work well with a 2 speed chain ring. But you try adjusting the lower limit screw to stop the chain dropping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastEditorUserId="20322" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T23:27:08.027" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T23:27:08.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32429" CreationDate="2015-08-03T00:20:59.047" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the bottom-bracket a cartridge unit? (googling this should give you an idea of what one looks like) If it's not, you definitely have a BSO and you should install a cartridge bb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the hubs. What brand are they? If there is no brand marking on the hub body (or skewer) it's a bad sign. If this is the case, you should probably replace the whole wheel, because the rim likely isn't worth it's salt either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really haven't had problems with cheap shifters and brakes. Cheap derailleurs will work well as long as they're adjusted correctly, same with cheap rim brakes. If the brake pads wear out, change them for something nicer, but before then don't bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the cranks steel or aluminum? If they're steel, they will work, but changing them is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I second DRH's point about 1-piece cranks, but bear in mind that there are many junk 3-piece cranksets too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DRH made some good points about the frame, but IMO as long as you weigh less than 200lbs, a cheap frame will be okay if you're not riding on rough stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrading the frame is in the same vein as upgrading the cranks. You could stick with the BSO-grade stuff, but you'll enjoy the bike a lot more if you upgrade. Same deal with the tires, too. Cheap, heavy ones will work, but the bike will be faster and more comfy if you upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike has full-suspension you should change the frame. Seriously, you don't want full-suspension on a cheap bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike has a front suspension it may be worth upgrading. If the fork is a Suntour, I wouldn't upgrade, but if you're feeling rich, get a Rockshox.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bike has a horrible Zoom or similar fork, you should upgrade to at least a Suntour or install a rigid fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike fails all of the quality tests I mentioned above, you are probably better off selling the bike than you are trying to upgrade the components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T00:20:59.047" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32429" CreationDate="2015-08-03T02:48:01.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly one of the easiest way to look up if a bike is a BSO or not is google it or look at where it was bought from. Walmart/Target/Kmart/etc. means BSO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brand is also easy to tell. Most non-bso's in the US are made by Giant, Trek, Specialized, Cannondale. Some brands are a bit harder since they sell both BSO and non-BSO (e.g. Schwinn, which does their non-bso's under the name Schwinn Signature bikes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T02:48:01.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16299" CreationDate="2015-08-03T04:47:14.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This works for me...first eyeball it.&#xA;Then for the fine adjusments take a string and stick one end to the center of your wheel (right at the top of the wheel) then measure the distance to one end of the handlebar (just take the other end of the string to the end of the handlebar) and then compare it to the other end of the handlebar...if it is aligned it should be the same lenght on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing this you can go to bed at ease lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20870" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T04:47:14.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16299" CreationDate="2015-08-03T11:36:52.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is shocking that many bike mechanics does not know how to fit the stem properly, leaving me to do the work for myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now writing this answer in hope that people never have an anguished scream in their head about this mis-alligned stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)Tie a ribbon/cord or anything that hanging on the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)Make sure the ribbon touches the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)Allign the stem&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4)Learn that after tightening, the stem generally move a few degrees depends on where the tightening bolts are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5)Once knowing which direction the tightening bolts causing the stem to rotate, offset the stem (remember to use the ribbon as indicator/marking)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat until you satisfy, but generally it wont be more than 3 times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T11:36:52.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32442" CreationDate="2015-08-03T14:41:05.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solid, yes. Worth it? Probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it has been kept in perfect running condition, a 30+ year old bike is going to need lots of maintenance. IT will also have really outdated parts. Finding spares will be difficult, newer parts might not fit at all. All this boils down to maintenance nightmare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you find bike that's perfect to ride, it will still be an old bike. It will be heavier and its' gears and brakes won't be as good as in newer models. Unless you get a kick from riding vintage bike (nothing wrong with that), I'd go for more modern one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site has 1980 Schwinn Traveler specifications: &lt;a href=&quot;http://schwinncruisers.com/catalogs/1980.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://schwinncruisers.com/catalogs/1980.html&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least the 27&quot; wheels that the Traveler has are going to be trouble. 27&quot; size is not used much these days. Finding new tyres/inner tubes in case of flats will be tricky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19611" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T14:41:05.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T15:21:24.317" Score="2" ViewCount="4488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting into biking and last week I just purchased a Cannondale Bad Boy 4 from REI. They still have it in the shop as I'm in the processing of moving and they agreed to hold onto it for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is regarding tires. I purchased the bike as an urban commuter vehicle as I've just moved downtown and am planning on using it for my commute to work. I also plan on taking it on some longer rides now and then on the city greenway (paved path), to get groceries, or to see friends. Nothing super long, maybe 10-20 miles max. The vast majority of my trips will be much shorter though, 1-2 miles through downtown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed the bike comes with &quot;smooth&quot; tires (not sure the right term for them), which appear (to me) more like long distance touring tires or something. Should I ask REI about switching out the tires with something with a bit of tread? I'm a bit concerned about running into rain on my commute and slick conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy at the shop told me that the ones on the bike &quot;should be fine&quot; for what I'm looking to use the bike for and that I should just be sure to be careful in wet conditions. He said if I wanted to, I could get some &quot;gator skin&quot; tires down the road to have as another option. But I don't think I'd be interested in storing and/or switching out tires on my bike. I'd rather just have one set of good tires and stick with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, what do you think? Based on my situation, should I stick with the smooth tires or see about switching them for something with a bit of tread on them? I'm more concerned with safety than lightning speed. Thanks for any insight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20877" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2019-01-13T01:48:26.720" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T14:29:17.787" Title="Best Tires for Cannondale Bad Boy 4" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32451" CreationDate="2015-08-03T15:23:45.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bikes don't have enough speed / surface area to hydroplane.  A slick does as good as tread in the rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T15:23:45.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32451" CreationDate="2015-08-03T16:51:07.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only need tread on soft surfaces like mud, snow or gravel where the tire can sink into and interlock with the ground. Low tire pressure helps for the same reason, because the tire can cling to the ground and runs smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have really rough tarmac where some kind of interlocking can happen, a slick, high pressure 23mm tire will have as much grip as a 50mm mountainbike tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T16:51:07.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T16:57:39.180" Score="2" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently replaced an old pair of Tioga clipless pedals with a new pair of Shimano M520 pedals.  Compared to my old pedals, the Shimano pedals have much more side to side play in them.  Is there an adjustment I can make to reduce this play? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20878" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T19:31:27.450" Title="Shimano Pedals M520" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32454" CreationDate="2015-08-03T17:54:25.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the cleats of the Shimano SPD MTB style pedals the side float* is +/-3° and system inherent. Nothing else is available. There are however two different types of cleats: One type will only release with a horizontal motion (SH-51), the other also with a vertical movement or combined vertical horizontal movement SH-56).&#xA;Bikeradar has a description of the two different types of cleats available from Shimano. You can also check their site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40012&amp;amp;t=12954872&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40012&amp;amp;t=12954872&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*Float being the free movement the cleat has before release.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastEditorUserId="10401" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T19:31:27.450" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T19:31:27.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25682" CreationDate="2015-08-03T18:54:40.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In term of safety, I think signaling intention to turn would be a higher priority than signaling braking - the benefits of signaling braking are questionable as many have pointed out above, but turning left (in a right side driving country) or right (in a left side driving country) is an accident prone maneuver even when bicycles signal and move over to the left (right) in advance of turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because cars do not expect turn lights, turn lights are probably not a safe alternative to hand signaling.  But because hand signaling requires a hand, it affects stability of riding - hence a good solution would be a third arm which popped out and had a light on the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in my experience and in the area where I currently live, signaling often leads to cars accelerating dangerously to get around the bicycle before it turns, hence somewhat negating the safety benefits of turn signaling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T18:54:40.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32400" CreationDate="2015-08-03T19:50:39.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably your bike, as an entry level bike, allows you to sit in a -relatively- upright position.  This is probably a good thing!  It takes a lot of training and practice to build up the muscles to ride in lower position - and as one ages (ex-pros included) it gets increasingly hard to maintain a low position.  If you try to maintain a lower position than you are capable of - you will go slower not faster.  You will feel tired and uncomfortable, suffer neck, back, arm, and hand pains.  You may end up riding less because it is so painful.  The more pain you feel, the less power you will output, which will result in more weight and pain on your hands, in a kind vicious circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your stem currently in the upside down position?  If not, try putting it upside down (e.g. -6 instead of 6) and see how it feels.  You might try putting it at -6 and doing HIT (high intensity training) for as long as you can, then change back to +6 for a more leisurely ride.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if your fit is not right to begin with now - then you benefit from a better fit.  But that is not a bike quality/expense issue, it is a fit issue.  And again I emphasize, the correct fit changes depending on power output / length of ride.  (I have two bikes, a carbon fiber with with a low position for power rides less than 3 hours long, and a steel cross bike for everything else.  I guess its an older cyclists version of reading glasses and driving glasses!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T19:50:39.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25682" CreationDate="2015-08-03T19:54:38.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems to me that these days the easy solution to this problem would be either to add an accelerometer to the light or if the bike had a Bluetooth or ANT+ speed sensor to use the signal to detect deceleration and then use that to run the brake light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any lights that do that (but I haven't been looking since I'm using the B&amp;amp;M dynamo powered brake light), but it seems like it shouldn't be too expensive to add the functionality to a battery powered light – at least not compared to either a dynamo system or the costs and hassle of adding a brake light switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T19:54:38.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32372" CreationDate="2015-08-03T20:20:41.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ways in which exercise in general promotes good health is generally well understood and appreciated and shared between athletes.  However, the adverse affects can vary greatly between individuals and is often overlooked, ignored, and can even become a source of shame and feelings of inadequacy.  That is not good!  and a logical-medical viewpoint, balancing the benefits and not-so-benefits, must be maintained.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal story - I used to jog and suffered from unknown leg pains, inability to sit without pain for more than 15 minutes, increasingly slow running, etc. - finally had an MRI and could see with my own eyes the slipped disc.  Fortunately, the direction of the slip meant that I could cycle without pain so I quit running and took up cycling.  The pain in my legs disappeared after a year.  I can cycle for endless hours whereas I could run for no more than three hours before the pain became too great.    Then I had trouble with sebaceous cysts on my behind after randonneur mega-rides.   In the end I had two operations to have cysts removed over 3 years.  After optimizing saddles, riding position, pedals, bib shorts, chamois, chamois creme, and removing pork and beef and minimizing other animal fats and sugar in my diet (animal fats replaced with coconut oil), I can with a confidence of 99% get through a 600 km ride without ass/crotch pimples that might become sebaceous cysts later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How this applies to your question:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't ignore your symptoms treat them with respect and keep actively changing parameters to test how the symptoms can be minimized.  Nothing is guaranteed, but you are allowed to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opportunist bacteria in the crotch is likely to increase during cycling due to heat and friction - in the case of a woman there is a direct large channel from the crotch to the bodies interior so it makes sense that (depending on the individual) bladder infections could increase.  That doesn't mean you are defeated however, there are many possible parameter changes that might help you overcome this obstacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18785" LastEditorUserId="18785" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T20:39:05.373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T20:39:05.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32451" CreationDate="2015-08-03T20:29:48.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I switched my badboy 2 to schwalbe marathon plus tires to get just a bit of tread for extra grip in wet conditions (and extra leak-proof ness! Not unimportant in a bike for daily use!). There is always some grit or dirt on the road and in the wet some tread just gets you a bit more grip in those cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T20:29:48.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T20:42:31.610" Score="1" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Campagnolo 11 speed Athena setup. I am enjoying a noisy creak which I suspect is located in my chainring bolts. I have replaced all of them, except  the one that screws the chainring to the crank. That one is stuck. I tried to unfasten it, but I messed up the bolt. My hex key can not grip it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any ideas on how to solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20277" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T23:20:05.693" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T23:20:05.693" Title="Campagnolo chainring bolt stuck to crank" Tags="&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32464" CreationDate="2015-08-03T21:53:04.577" Score="8" ViewCount="3610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rouxbikes.co.uk/carbon-drive-g8/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;bike&lt;/a&gt; that has a Gates Carbon belt drive and am wondering what I will need do to remove the rear wheel when I get a puncture in my rear tyre away from home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dropout looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZHhKY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZHhKY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nMhZM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nMhZM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The centre part of the dropout on this side of the bike (and not the left side) is clearly removable. The rear of this removable dropout has a triangular shape that wedges it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect brake cable to allow room for tyre to pass them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disconnect shifter cable from hub.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do nothing with the belt tensioner? Loosen it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen nuts holding rear axle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove two recessed Allen (hex) bolts from removable dropout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the frame apart slightly so the dropout can move forward?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the belt out of the way through the now open slot in the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the wheel out rearwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like step 3 a lot. I've read the belt tension is important and I'm not confident of getting it correct when replacing the wheel. But if I don't loosen the belt tension first, step 6 may cause damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this procedure correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7617" LastEditorUserId="7617" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T21:42:44.703" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T15:18:12.797" Title="Fixing rear-wheel puncture on belt-drive bike" Tags="&lt;belt-drive&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32463" CreationDate="2015-08-03T23:15:46.120" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks good except I think you will have to loosen the tensioner. You won't have to spread the frame. When the recessed allen head bolts are removed you risk damage to the very end of the threads due to the belt tension. It is unlikely you can reinstall the tensioning assembly with tension on the belt. Due to the complexity of this kind of flat repair you may want to consider some type of puncture prevention be it tires, tire liners etc. I have used a technique of repairing a puncture without removing the wheel. In this case a rider on my local trail had a flat, bolt-on wheels, and no wrench.  You flip the bike upside down. Work one edge of the tire off the rim. Pull out the tube and patch and replace as usual.  Instead of working your hands around the wheel you spin the wheel as you work your way around. It appears in the photo that you may not have to remove the shifter cable. There may be enough slack to work it around the frame and effect the repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T23:15:46.120" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32463" CreationDate="2015-08-04T01:46:44.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have to break the chain to get the wheel off my single speed and you should not have to break the frame to get the wheel off a belt.   Just loosen stuff up, slide it to the side, and work stuff out.  That big drive on the front by the pedals - that belt can come off of that and it gives you enough slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T10:25:57.367" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T10:25:57.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15562" CreationDate="2015-08-04T04:10:44.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An important factor is geometry.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference is tire clearance and brake type, yes ...  but the difference between a road bike frame and a Cyclocross frame is measured in many more millimeters than the ones printed on the tire sidewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, the 58cm Crux is somewhere generally between a 56cm Roubaix and a 58cm Tarmac, seat tube length withstanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aerodynamic drag of CX bikes is more than that of road bikes, especially because disc brakes are not optimized for aerodynamic efficiency, as they are still largely just iterations of mountain bike systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as riding a CX bike in stock trim on the road, I think most riders would notice the 2cm average less drop on a CX's handlebars more than just about anything else (assuming the rider equipped the CX bike with 25-28mm tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20887" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T04:19:07.050" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T04:19:07.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21259" CreationDate="2015-08-04T04:17:03.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work in a volume dealership bike shop.  One of the top in the country.  I rarely, if ever, have seen this problem.  The cable should not be slack when in low gear.  Take it to your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20887" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T05:42:02.117" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T05:42:02.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T10:31:01.057" Score="7" ViewCount="1079" Body="&lt;p&gt;ive had debilitating arthritis since I was five and whilst I was younger I enjoyed riding a bike. Unfortunately due to degradation of my hip and lower back joints I am unable to use bikes with long cranks as my hips and back don't allow for the upwards movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some rotation and upward movement within my hips and back still - I'm able to climb stairs just about for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say, would it be possible to adjust the crank length? Would this need to be specialist or would my local second hand dealer be able to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20889" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T06:03:41.700" Title="Is it possible to change the lengths of bike cranks?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-08-15T05:09:17.810" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32468" CreationDate="2015-08-04T13:06:52.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can change the length of the crank arms. If you are going to replace crank set, you need to make sure it is compatible with your frame. There are a number of different interfaces between the cranks and the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some common sizes are (many cranks will have the size stamped on the back of one or both of the arms):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;165 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;170 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;175 mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The size is the distance from the center of where the crank attaches to the bottom bracket to the center of the pedal axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is enough, you can just swap your crank set for different one. If not there are companies selling specialized &lt;a href=&quot;http://hostelshoppe.com/SCHLUMPF-Crankarms-155mm-81971/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shorter cranks&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://highpath.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crank shortening devices&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, kids bicycles have much shorter cranks, maybe it would be possible to use some of them on an adult bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T06:03:41.700" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T06:03:41.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="692" CreationDate="2015-08-04T13:37:25.143" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its really bad you can use auto body degreaser. Dont use it all the time though. Also simple green works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20894" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T13:37:25.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T17:28:28.877" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to suspension on bike and if I put all my weight down on the suspension it doesn't go down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a used Specialized Hardrock. Only paid £230 for it. All other parts brand new, literally everything. But there isn't any movement in the suspension at all. I can turn the lock one about half a turn then it starts to get hard to push it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it may have been left outside so could be stuck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20898" LastEditorUserId="76" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T20:06:21.597" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T20:06:21.597" Title="Suntour xctV2 appaeared to be locked in place and have no movement at all" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T19:51:06.867" Score="5" ViewCount="2536" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I bought a used vintage bike. I just love the bike and it's awesome. However it came with one problem: gears problems. First of all I have very little experience with bike, especially gears (currently watching youtube videos to learn more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem that I have in the bike is three folds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- The shifter for the front gear is soft, so there is absolutely no tension when you move it. So if you move it, nothing actually changes in the front gear at all. My question regarding this problem: could it be the shifter itself that is broken or could there be something else wrong? (i.e. like cable problem, or front gear problem itself). I'm trying to troubleshoot the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- I have never seen such shifters ever before, so if the switchers themselves are broken, are there still old school switchers like these? If so, do they have specific names so I can look them up online? Because when I search for &quot;shifters&quot;, I only get the new popular ones!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3- The last problem has to do with the rear gears, the switcher doesn't switch to all speeds and I have no idea what's the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pics for my cool bike :D (so happy about it):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KMfB3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KMfB3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sogI2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sogI2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8GLHv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8GLHv.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastEditorUserId="12545" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T11:17:47.760" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T03:38:25.280" Title="The shifter for the front derailleur is &quot;soft&quot; in my vintage bike" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T21:03:14.353" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new bike and the rear tire deflates quickly every time I inflate the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now here's the thing: I inflate it fully and start to ride and the tire only deflates a bit. It seems as though when it gets to a certain pressure it doesn't deflate any further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tube has never deflated completely. It only loses about 60%, then stays at a consistent pressure. Could it be the valve or is it something else entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20904" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T00:27:37.803" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T14:21:54.143" Title="Is it the valve" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32412" CreationDate="2015-08-04T21:20:51.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, the deeper the rim the more noise the wheel makes. A pronounced whooshing noise isn't unusual among deep dish wheels and disc wheels (as in the solid wheels, not the brakes) are even noisier. I had Cinelli and Hed discs when I raced and used to love the sound of them (the ride, not so much!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally be very nervous of the no brand Chinese carbon wheels, frames and parts being sold on eBay. I've been hearing some absolute horror stories from shops and race mechanics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20169" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T21:20:51.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32475" CreationDate="2015-08-04T21:42:38.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your insight about the pressure is interesting, but it doesn't tell us where the leak is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the tube from the bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inflate the tube, and listen for the leak. Check the valve by sticking it in your ear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't pinpoint it's location that way, put the tube underwater and watch for a bubble stream.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the leak is coming from the valve, you may need a new tube, or the valve core may be loose (depending on the valve type). Otherwise, it can probably be patched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="7984" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T14:21:54.143" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T14:21:54.143" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32474" CreationDate="2015-08-04T23:42:18.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are called friction shifters and you can still buy new ones. You should be able to get better performance from the ones you have though. Note the 2 black plastic wing nuts on the side of the shifter. It is very important to tighten these enough to get the right amount of friction to stop the derailleur slipping out of gear. It takes a bit of trail and error to get right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As commented above with point 3), you need to set the right amount of tension to get the correct range of movement in the derailleur. You may also need to adjust the small limit screws (with Philips heads) to help set this range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These type of shifters are tricky to use. You need to listen and look at the gears to see you have engaged the one you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T23:42:18.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32442" CreationDate="2015-08-05T01:38:48.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I owned mid-80's Schwinn Traveler and Le Tour bicycles. They were good quality entry-level road bikes for their time. That said, I would likely look for something else for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unless it was very well maintained and recently serviced you could easily spend $200 on parts and service to have the bike overhauled. A neighbor wanted to start riding his early 80's bike again after years of it sitting, and spent over $300.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rust works it's way from the inside out on old steel frames like these. While if it has been stored and maintained well it would be fine for years, if not frame could crumble with any significant use.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Parts, while available, may not always be in stock for a bike of this vintage. Things like 27&quot; wheels and tires, and 5-spd freewheels may be hard to find locally.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to move on, these may be helpful questions to review:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/17170/213&quot;&gt;Buying a used higher quality bike vs a lower quality new bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/16678/213&quot;&gt;What are some red flags to look for when buying a used road bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T01:38:48.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-05T05:04:21.207" Score="3" ViewCount="1577" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty new to the whole vintage bike thing so would love a bit of help finding the history of the bike I bought in Walthamstow, London, last year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's marked to be an Armstrong Cycle, Birmingham, which I have found a lot of information on, but mainly around the 'moth' models and tandems - I can't seem to place the 'Havana'. I'm looking to find the approx date of creation, and perhaps a bit more about it's stand-out features. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some pics. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybOD7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybOD7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YI0go.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YI0go.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's got the original seat, bell, lights and 3 gears - it's in great working order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be much appreciated :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charlotte&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20907" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T19:24:05.370" Title="Help to find the history of my 1900's Armstrong cycle :)" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;&lt;history&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32485" CreationDate="2015-08-05T05:06:36.840" Score="5" ViewCount="1031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if oscillation is the right way to describe this, but when I'm riding at speed (say around 35-40 km/h) and take one hand off of the bars, the bars shimmy or oscillate – kind of like they are resonating with something. It's not bad, but it's new – I'm pretty sure the bike didn't used to do this…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know what would cause this? Or better yet, what can be done to eliminate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it matters the bike is a Trek 620. The front wheel is a pretty plain vanilla rim with Schwalbe Marathon tire (32-622) and a Sanyo dynamo hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T05:51:49.657" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T08:51:41.510" Title="Front wheel oscillation" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;safety&gt;&lt;handling&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32483" CreationDate="2015-08-05T05:10:38.140" Score="14" ViewCount="7344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen fender/mudguard descriptions that mention things like breakaway stays and discussions about the relative safety of metal vs plastic fenders, but I'm not getting what the concerns are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody explain what the potential hazards of fenders are and how to mitigate them? The rainy season is coming…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm especially interested in full fenders on a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T01:00:41.790" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T16:50:27.793" Title="What are the risks of fenders/mudguards?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32482" CreationDate="2015-08-05T05:27:56.643" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, if you're using a conventional cantilever brake (i.e. with a yoke, not a link wire), you need a fender or reflector or something to avoid the yoke catching on the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fenders.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; is excellent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several types of fenders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downtube mudguards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PjfWA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PjfWA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seatpost fenders:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z66FQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z66FQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these options sit away from the wheel, clipped on. They can't interfere with the wheel, so coverage isn't as good (esp. for water being thrown up by your front wheel hitting your feet). However, they can work on all bikes. They don't prevent your drive train from being covered in crud from the road (which reduces the lifetime of your parts) or water getting in your headset bearings. There aren't safety issues with these (they can fall off, but nothing should happen if they fall off; they can't jam in a wheel). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full Fenders: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SC2t8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SC2t8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Ideally you want a mudflap on the front. These mount to eyelets on the frame and fork normally, and at the brake bolts (or reflectors or ziptie there). There are also a few clip on ones for this.  These prevent crud from being thrown up to your drivetrain and getting into the headset bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with full fenders is that something can get caught between the fender and the wheel or the fender can slip (esp. in the front) and jam a wheel. Then you crash. This is why you see fenders with safety release tabs so the fender will shear off in some way if something tries to get caught in the wheel rather than jam it and crash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T05:27:56.643" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32474" CreationDate="2015-08-05T05:45:53.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The derailleurs (aka switchers) are controlled by the cable that runs between the lever and the derailleur. On most bikes, increasing the tension in the cable will move the front from the inner chainring towards the outer chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I'd do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, I'd look carefully at the front derailleur and put a bit of oil on all of the places that look like pivot points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While you're there look for two screws that adjust the limit stops of the derailleur (this adjustment keeps the derailleur from shifting the chain off the chainrings). They are usually marked H and L and they are probably the only screws that are on the derailleur body (as opposed to the screw on the clamp around the seat tube). If you look at the bottom of the screws you should see a bit of metal set up to hit them as the derailleur moves. It may be hitting on screw but if it is there should be a big(ish) gap at the other screw. Might as well oil the screws too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Oops, there will be another screw, it's the one that clamps the cable that actuates the derailleur. Find that screw and the lever it is attached to, it's the lever that will actually move the derailleur when the cable is pulled. Try moving the lever down towards the cable – as if the cable is pulling it. The derailleur should move towards the large chainring (or maybe the small one, a few front derailleurs are made that way, but they are not too common). If it moves freely and then moves back when you let go of the lever that's a good thing. If it doesn't check the lever and the cable and see if you can move the lever and if the cable follows it – if you can get some slack in the cable so that you can move the lever and confirm that the derailleur is moving freely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At this point if the derailleur moves, you can assume that it can be made to work. So follow the cable, does it seem to move freely? If not a bit of oil may help. Once you have the cable moving, check its tension. When you move the lever to slack the cable (to shift onto the smaller chainring), the spring in the derailleur will pick up the slack and the cable will stay taut. If this doesn't happen you need to go back to that screw that clamps the shift cable and loosen it, then pull the cable tight and clamp it again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should get you close. If the cables are old they may need replacing, and you should probably replace the housings at the same time. They aren't too expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those shifters are pretty much bullet proof. It will take a lot to stop them from working. They are really simple. Pretty much all that can go wrong is rust or a loose adjuster (if this is the case you'll be able to pull on the cable, but as soon as you let go it will go right back to the original position). All you need to do this is to tighten the screw on the side of the shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T05:45:53.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32481" CreationDate="2015-08-05T07:23:20.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two theories that might explain the wobble you're experiencing. Perhaps both have their part in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Self stabilizing of the front-wheel (resonance)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually bikes are built in a way that stabilizes the front-wheel. The term for it is &lt;em&gt;trail&lt;/em&gt; (called &quot;Nachlauf&quot; in the image). It's the horizontal distance between the steering axis and the wheel's axis. On bicycles this is often realized as a slight forward bend of the fork. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kpFi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5kpFi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So whenever the front wheel gets a bump there is a force trying to put it back to the straight position. Due to that there is bound to be some resonance frequency. With increasing speed and thus stronger bumps some of bumps are bound to be nearly in resonance with the front-wheel and to create your wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Precession&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever the wheel isn't exactly in the direction of the driving direction it gets some force parallel to it's rotation axis. As every rotating object it reacts with a movement called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Precession&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;precession&lt;/a&gt; (just like a gyroscope). Also this gets more intense with speed because of the higher angular momentum and the stronger force on the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what would help?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the &lt;em&gt;trail&lt;/em&gt; of the front wheel. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2011/02/the-geometry-of-bike-handling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on the pros and cons of that approach.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sit in a more inclined position - thus putting more of your weight on the handle bar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put your hands further apart on the handle bar (increasing your leverage). You can easily experiment with this: Usually the wobble begins at 20-25km/h if you're driving free-hand and at ~30km/h if you put your hands close together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid elastic frames. Especially frames with a low trough step (originally for wearing skirts while driving) seem to add to the wobble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6365" LastEditorUserId="6365" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T07:49:46.470" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T07:49:46.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32482" CreationDate="2015-08-05T10:15:58.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another problem, if you're cycling in slushy snow, is that ice/snow can build up on the inside of the fender, and eventually interfere with the tire - especially if the wheel isn't perfectly round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11285" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T10:15:58.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32480" CreationDate="2015-08-05T11:55:07.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage-bicycles-what-s-worth-appraisals-inquiries/850018-1957-armstrong-havana.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage-bicycles-what-s-worth-appraisals-inquiries/850018-1957-armstrong-havana.html&lt;/a&gt; it looks like it could have been made form 1957 to 1961 or later. It looks like it has a 3 speed internal hub gearbox, probably a Sturmy Archer, as it is British made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appears that Armstrong was part of a larger group by this stage, and the ealier design approach may have changed a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look under where the pedals are (the bottom bracket), there is often a serial number which may contain the year of manufacturer. Or it could be stamped elsewhere on the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T11:55:07.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32415" CreationDate="2015-08-05T12:12:16.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shifter has a broken pawl mechanism inside that prevents it from shifting up (to smaller, harder cogs) reliably, when the rear derailleur cable is under tension.  This is causing the rear derailleur to shift up 2-3 gears at a time for every use of the shifter.  Given the difficulty in fixing shifters a replacement one is the course of action that has been recommended to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20840" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T12:12:16.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32482" CreationDate="2015-08-05T12:51:43.273" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the main accident risk is that something gets caught between fender and wheel and blocks the wheel. If this happens with the front wheel, a crash is quite likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can happen in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some foreign object (branch, clump of earth etc.) gets caught and blocks the wheel. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some foreign object gets caught and causes the fender itself to fold up and jam on itself, typically by getting caught under the fork.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second point is the main risk. A foreign object on its own is usually not strong enough to completely lock the wheel, but if the fender itself gets pulled in, a complete lock-up is quite likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a problem mainly with the (softer) plastic fenders, so it only became a real concern when metal fenders were phased out in favor of plastic fenders. I seem to recall reading about some nasty accidents with early plastic fenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern fenders avoid the problem by &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) placing the fastening points for the wire holding the fender such that in case of a jammed object, the fender is pushed away from the wheel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) having an emergency release mechanism for this wire, such that it snaps off rather than pulling the fender into the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example of this emergency release mechanism is &quot;SKS Secu-Clip&quot; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sks-germany.com/&quot;&gt;SKS Germany&lt;/a&gt; (see  &lt;a href=&quot;https://arnowelzel.de/wp/sks-secu-clip&quot;&gt;https://arnowelzel.de/wp/sks-secu-clip&lt;/a&gt; for pictures). It is basically a plastic part that the wire clips into, such that it can be pulled out when something gets caught in the fender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use such a fastening mechanism, the risk of an accident from a jamming fender is minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1093" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T12:51:43.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-05T14:03:50.797" Score="4" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have shimano 105 5700 compact  crank(50-34T).&#xA;Can I use 53-39T chain rings with compact right arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20918" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T00:56:59.670" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T00:56:59.670" Title="Can I use 53-39T chain rings with compact cranks?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32491" CreationDate="2015-08-05T15:31:08.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you're matching chainrings to a crank, you need to match the bolt pattern (i.e. are there 4 bolts, 5 bolts) and the bolt circle diameter (BCD) measured in mm -- the diameter of the circle which all the bolts lie on [or equivalently, the center-to-center distance (C-C) of adjacent bolts. Multiply this (in mm) by 1.701 to get the BCD for 5 bolt patterns, 1.414 for 4 bolt, etc. -- its just a simple exercise in trigonometry to figure this out].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compact cranks have a 110 BCD with a 5 bolt pattern while a regular road double has 130 BCD 5 bolt pattern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some 53t and 39t 110 BCD chainrings, but they are less common than those sold in 130 BCD. As pointed out by ojs in the comments, Stronglight and TA (among other manufacturers) do make them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you will also have to adjust the front derailleur (and check everything is within spec for the front derailleur) if you do this swap. And you defeat the point of buying a compact double in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T19:31:34.967" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T19:31:34.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32494" CreationDate="2015-08-05T15:36:39.477" Score="7" ViewCount="3572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received a pair of wheels that I ordered online. They are a replacement for a 1940'es vintage bike that now only takes &quot;wulst&quot;-type tires, which are only available in very poor quality at very high prices. The rims are of the Westwood type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front wheel looks perfect, with all spokes being a bit shorter than the nipples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But on the rear wheel almost all the spokes protrude clearly into the (single wall) rim. Most of them just a bit, but maybe 10-15 of them seem more than 0.5 mm too long and I measured the worst 4-5 of them to protrude around 1.5 mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely rim tape will cover some protrusion, but how much? Will rim tape be enough to protect the tubes from this or should I go through the hassle of returning the wheel? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really prefer to just slap them on the bike and not think too much about it, but on the other hand I bought these wheels to get better tires and fewer flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example from the rear wheel:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1jhb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1jhb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;This is one of the protruding spokes on the rear wheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few more photos here &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/DLsXp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/DLsXp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the front wheel looks like.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oB9Hq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oB9Hq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;All spokes on front wheel are like this&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5687" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T10:31:58.500" Title="How much is too much - spokes protruding into the rim" Tags="&lt;spokes&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32493" CreationDate="2015-08-05T17:03:59.387" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is poorly built and unacceptable (in my book) as a paid for product.  If all of the spokes are protruding some, and several more than others, it means that the wrong length spokes were used.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons for this may or may not be the wheelbuilders fault, it's possible that some component of the wheel build had incorrectly listed sizing and the spoke length calculation was off because of it (component manufacturer fault).   However, it's also possible that the wheel builder didn't have the proper size spokes.  The right way to do it in that case would be to take longer spokes and run them through a spoke cutter to get the proper length.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first case, rather than rebuild the wheel the extra spoke should have been filed down to the level of the nipple.  This is acceptable as long as there is enough thread left to properly true the wheel.  If too much is sticking out the wheel will need to be rebuilt or it will likely fail at a future truing when the nipple no long has enough threading to secure purchase on the spoke.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the second case is true, and the builder doesn't have a spoke cutter and didn't want to order the proper size, I'm calling foul and would not send future business to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unrelated to all that, it may be possible to get a rim strip thick enough to sufficiently protect your tube, but you really shouldn't have to go to that trouble.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T17:03:59.387" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31305" CreationDate="2015-08-05T17:08:38.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a relatively cheap bike that I bought about 6 or 7 years ago. So it has modern rear triangle spacing (135mm) and is not too heavy (not superlight but it's 6061 alloy). It cost me £240 Sterling (sorry, don't know the exchange rate) and I've spent about the same so far updgrading the components piece by piece to bring it up to basic race level (Shimano 105).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look for a bottom of the range version of a decent brand and then upgrade the groupset. You'll get the same frameset as their more expensive models just with probably a cheap Sora groupo that you can upgrade to 105 or Ultegra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll still be cheaper than any bike that comes with a 105 level groupset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20757" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T17:08:38.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32498" CreationDate="2015-08-05T20:07:44.867" Score="15" ViewCount="6259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very nice fixie bike, which I keep suffering from flat tires. I live in Bogota which is a city full of potholes in the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been examining options to implement in order to have less issues with this flat tires, I got to know &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tannus.com/index.html&quot;&gt;this company&lt;/a&gt; which is so far the best option I am considering, but it's quite expensive to order a pair of tires just for me, to Bogota.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I kept checking and I found this videos in youtube &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pN3Z_aCzg_o&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RzASr-cPPs&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MyRoTaAUqg&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt; that shows how to do that with a special sealant. Have you tried that in a fixie? Does that work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;EDIT&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I suffer a lot of &quot;bite&quot; punctures (so called here) which are two holes in the tube because of a hole or a sidewalk and the rim pressure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't suffer that much of a single hole puncture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know exactly the amount of pressure, but always that I inflate the tires, are really &quot;tight&quot; you could say.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I ride almost everyday, home-work-home. Each trip around 13km.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have flat almost once a week. Sometimes once each two weeks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I inflate the tires at least once a week.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My tires are one year old.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20922" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:56:44.407" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T14:24:07.470" Title="How to stop dealing with flat tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32496" CreationDate="2015-08-05T20:22:29.620" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What type of flats do you suffer from ? Punctures ? How much do you ride ? How often do you have flats ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much pressure do you have in your tire ? If it's too low it might be the cause of your flats. Tires will lose pressure over time so you need to re-inflate them periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How old are your tires ? If they are too thin they will be prone to flats, try to check if you have wear marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With tubeless people usually put some sealant in the tire, so you might try that, this will prevent/repair puncture flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T20:22:29.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32496" CreationDate="2015-08-05T20:37:34.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advice I can give is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a good pair of tires. I use Maxxis Re-Fuse and can't complain at all, they are pretty strong and not expensive (they aren't cheap though), I've ride them literally over broken bottle shards and survived. Some friends of mine have Black Mamba tires and they seem to be happy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep you tire with the correct pressure. I usually ride with 100PSI - 110PSI. The max pressure for my tires is 120PSI, so I try to keep them just a little bellow the max. This is crucial to prevent the &quot;snake bites&quot; punctures, if your tire's pressure is not enough the rim might &quot;bite&quot; the tube on a hard kick against the ground.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes I put an old tube wrapping the tube inside the tire just to give it a little extra resistance. No problems so far with this approach, only happy rides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started riding a fixie, several years ago, I found myself having several flats in a month, it was pretty annoying. Then I realized how important was to keep the correct pressure of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: as @Will Vousden correctly comments, this has nothing to do with using a fixie, but with the tires you are using (likely something like 700x23).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastEditorUserId="6652" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T14:24:07.470" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T14:24:07.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32496" CreationDate="2015-08-05T20:45:11.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are asking  about converting inner tubes to tubeless. As far as I know, tubeless system isn't 100% puncture proof, if you get a nail on the road, it's impossible to fix right away and you need to call a taxi. For me, inner tubes are still the best options for bike commuting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of several ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Purchase a bike pump with psi gause, so you can know precisely how much pressure the tubes have. Checking the pressure by hand isn't always the best method since I found it is hard to distinguish 30psi or 60psi on my tires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get wider tires, for example go with 700x28mm or 700x32mm since wider tires can handle rough condition better.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some tires have kevlar protection, you can use those, but I doubt you need to purchase new tires&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14447" LastEditorUserId="14447" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T15:04:12.010" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T15:04:12.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-05T20:51:33.220" Score="0" ViewCount="4288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with bike trainers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a fluid bike trainer to use with my fixie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trainer is for a quick release rear wheel, and comes with a special quick release skewer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My fixie has standard track nuts. Any ideas on how to solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0IcrR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0IcrR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The trainer cups over the standard track nut, but it&amp;#39;s not a perfect fit.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20926" LastEditorUserId="20926" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T14:58:13.707" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T20:25:20.063" Title="Fluid trainer works with quick release rear axles, I have a standard nut fixie" Tags="&lt;quick-release&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32500" CreationDate="2015-08-05T20:59:11.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have the Cycle Ops Fluid 2 trainer, which is what I have, you can use it with nutted wheels.  The skewer that comes with it is just for bikes with fancy quick release skewers that don't fit into the trainer or if you have nice skewers that you don't want to scratch up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For nutted wheels, the retaining mechanism should fit fine over top of the nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Update&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That isn't the Cycle Ops Fluid Trainer, so it looks like my previous info isn't really applicable.  Some trainers aren't designed to work with nutted wheels.  Looks like it's not only a problem with the way it mounts, but that your hub is too narrow.  The mechanism looks like it's screwed all the way in, but it's still too loose.  How much axle/bolt do you have sticking out from the nut? It looks like the part that's supposed go around the nut/skewer isn't very deep, and is probably meeting up with the end of the axle.  You could probably cut it shorter to alleviate this problem, but that's probably not an optimal solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a couple different adapters that I was able to find for using nutted axles in trainers linked below. It's difficult to tell if either one would work with your specific trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0037NBYGG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Forza Bolt Axle Adapter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/tacx-axle-nuts/rp-prod43717&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TACX axle nuts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you do manage to get it mounted properly, it might not work that well. I mounted my fixie on my trainer once, and there wasn't enough resistance. Fluid trainers generally don't have adjustable resistance (maybe yours does) and required that you change gears to adjust the resistance. I found that the gear on my fixie (46x15, which is higher than most) wasn't hard enough to give me a decent workout on my trainer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T20:25:20.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32496" CreationDate="2015-08-05T21:01:50.780" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that the type of puncture you're getting is caused by the rim &quot;pinching&quot; the inner tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The root cause here is one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pressure too low (most likely) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're not avoiding potholes carefully enough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight is too high for the tires/terrain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has nothing to do with fixies except perhaps that people on fixies tend to awkwardly power through obstacles without unloading enough weight at the right instant in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is junk you can inject into your tubes, but that stuff is terrible and increases rotating weight. You don't need it. Also, this has nothing to do with tire quality. Your rim is pinching the inner tube, not something from the outside the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suggest you increase pressure on tires and avoid potholes.&lt;/strong&gt; If that fails to work, try fatter tires. It is OK to go beyond the pressure specified on sidewall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1998" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T21:01:50.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32520" CreationDate="2015-08-05T21:02:40.957" Score="0" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to buy this bike that the owner claims is a bike from 1940's with all original parts except the seat. I'm going to purchase this for $70 CDN, if you guys could help me identify the bike and/or tell me whether this is a good price, it would be of great help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KL4MW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUKng.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1dfQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A1dfQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cfc7j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cfc7j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20927" LastEditorUserId="20927" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T23:34:45.450" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T14:54:54.443" Title="Can you help me identify this bike?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;vintage&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32284" CreationDate="2015-08-05T22:10:48.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of clicks is a logic test.&#xA;You start on gear one. Click once and you are on gear 2. Click 8 times and you are on gear 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20929" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T22:10:48.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32496" CreationDate="2015-08-05T22:11:43.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try buying a set of 28mm tires (or larger).  You can run them at a lower pressure than a 23mm or 25mm and doing so won't likely cause the bite puncture you are experiencing b/c the air chamber is much larger and thus has more area to compress before it nips at the tube.  An upside is that the ride quality is far superior to say, a 23mm.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure you are installing your tube properly.  If it isn't seated under the tire just right you will keep pinching it over and over.  Start at the valve stem and keep it even as you work it under the tire.  Roll the tire around with your fingers and palm to seat the tube after you get the tire back on, and before inflating the tube to pressure.  DON'T use levers to get the tire back on if possible.  Just another opportunity for a pinch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a road bike with Conti 28mm tires on a daily commute through Chicago with many potholes, broken glass piles, nails, etc. and haven't had a pinch flat or puncture in probably a year, and, I ride them at a very low pressure (80psi/ 175lb rider)  When I did flat last it was because the tube was not installed properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T22:11:43.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32507" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-05T23:14:06.900" Score="0" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Giant Sedona LX... probably from 2005 (?) with an SR Suntour fork on it. Magnesium...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm trying to disassemble the fork to inspect whether it is rusted (and will be tossed as it is not worth the effort) or needs a rebuild.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find the model because it's too old. I looked on bikepedia and elsewhere, using the serial number and the bike model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to take the outer arms off but there is no hex bolt/screw anywhere near the dropouts. It's just circular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help? I'm missing something really obvious? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/ukYNz4a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/4rL5rIt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pic 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20906" LastEditorUserId="20906" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T21:16:45.113" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T21:16:45.113" Title="SR Suntour Fork Disassembly - No Screw/Bolt near Dropouts / Giant Sedona LX 2005" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-05T23:33:46.057" Score="2" ViewCount="850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a girls 26 inch Columbia touring bicycle, its old. It needs new tires, on the tires is the size of 26 x 1 3/8 inch. Yet, all tires at Walmart are too small to fit the rim. I even went to a 27 inch and it was way too big. My question is (and I have searched extensively and found no answers) Will a Schwinn tire fit this bike? Or, will those 700mm fit.  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20930" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T16:31:41.847" Title="What kind of tire will fit a Columbia touring 26 inch bicycle" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32481" CreationDate="2015-08-05T23:35:53.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like it could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose Hub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loose Headset&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Untrue Wheel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire messed up one way or another&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description, it's hard to believe that the source is in the rear half of the bike (I'm assuming it also happens when you're not pedaling, correct me if I'm wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be a fairly minor problem (for now at least), that could be very hard to pinpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't find the problem after a technical inspection, I would just keep riding. If you notice the problem getting worse, inspect it again (it'll be easier to find).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T23:35:53.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32508" CreationDate="2015-08-05T23:41:57.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tire brand alone won't help. Over the years bike makers and tire makers have invented an amazing range of sizes. It keeps us on our toes…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess that the tires you found at Walmart were 26 x 1.375 (or some other decimal size). You'd think that 1.375 and 1 3/8 inches would be the same. Alas, they are not. This question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9498/why-does-a-decimal-sized-26-tire-fit-my-rims-but-a-fractional-sized-26-tire-do?rq=1&quot;&gt;Why does a decimal sized 26“ tire fit my rims but a fractional sized 26” tire doesn't?&lt;/a&gt;, explains in more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is to find a tire with a fractional size (or look for a tire marked 35-590 or 37-590 – this is an ETRTO/ISO tire size, the numbers are the width (35 mm or 37 mm) and the &quot;bead seat diameter&quot; of the rim (590 mm). Most tires will be marked with this number and it will let you be sure you're getting the right size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your local bike shop will probably be able to get these for you, or if you'd rather order online one place that carries a good selection is &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net/product-list/tires-1101/?rb_ct=1347&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Harris Cyclery&lt;/a&gt;. The link will take you to their selection of tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T04:59:59.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32462" CreationDate="2015-08-06T01:25:10.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try using a brand new hex key, some brands may be slightly larger than others.  You could see if a slightly larger non metric hex key, or hex key bit can be hammered into the recess.  For example, a 7/32&quot; hex key is about 5.6mm.  I believe some nicer metric hex key sets come with 5.5 mm sized keys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can buy or borrow a dremel tool, you might be able to cut a slot in the head of the frozen bolt that you can fit a plain tip screw driver into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to drill out the bolt and use an easy out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before trying to get it out, I'd put the cranks in an oven and put it on 150 to 200 degrees.  Aluminum has a coefficient of thermal expansion much greater than steel, and so this will make the bolt a slightly looser fit in the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15761" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T01:25:10.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32496" CreationDate="2015-08-06T03:34:55.447" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are a few answers here but they don't address the tonus solid or tubless.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is you problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't know exactly the amount of pressure, but always that I inflate&#xA;  the tires, are really &quot;tight&quot; you could say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Tight&quot; is not good enough.   &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5417/how-can-i-check-tire-pressure-without-a-pressure-gauge&quot;&gt;Check pressure without a gauge.&lt;/a&gt;  Get a real pressure gauge.  They are not expensive and inflate to maximum pressure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zlP2o.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zlP2o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pinch flat on a properly inflate tire is rare.  If you are running like a 23mm or 25mm then maybe.  On a 28mm or 32mm running at maximum rated pressure a pinch flat should likely dent the rim.  I have never had a pinch flat on 28mm or bigger tire running at maximum pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for that Tannus solid.  Solid tires are not common for reason.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for those tubeless conversion kits.  Yes they have tubeless for road but it is not common.  Tubeless is more used for mountain so you can run at lower pressure.  You don't have a need for running at lower pressure.  You have a problem with running at lower pressure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the biggest tire you can on your fixie and run at maximum rated pressure. You should not be getting pinch flats unless you are banging curbs. For punctures get puncture resistant tires and pre-slimed tubes.  I don't like THE most puncture resistant as they are heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T11:06:04.487" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32496" CreationDate="2015-08-06T06:30:18.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stans No Tubes and other tubeless systems with sealant will provide you much greater resistance to both &quot;puncture&quot; flats from glass, nails etc, AND from &quot;pinch flats&quot; or &quot;snakebites&quot;.   The sealant will seal holes from quite large nails or other debris and the tubeless tyre can't really get a pinch flat because there is no tube inside it to pinch.  Having said that, if you hit a bad enough pothole or rock, at really high speed, you could still tear a hole in the sidewall - but you'd have to be trying quite hard to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few notes on making tubeless work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; use tubeless specific tires on a road bike.  Eg. Huchinson Fusion.  This is because standard tires don't have strong enough sidewalls, and more importantly. they don't lock into the rim well enough.  IF you ignore this advice, you can have a very bad accident if they tire comes off the rim at speed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the sealant needs to be replaced periodically as it will eventually dry out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the easiest way to put the sealant in is through a valve with a removeable core.  Stans sell these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do get a flat even with this system, you can easily fix it by the roadside: you just take out the valve, and put a normal tube into the tire.  Then of course you can get a flat in the same way that you do now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used stans no-tubes sealant with various tires and rims on my road bike, mountain bikes, and cyclocross bikes for 5+ years and I'd never go back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastEditorUserId="1161" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T23:39:21.077" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T23:39:21.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32496" CreationDate="2015-08-06T07:40:15.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Learn &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mountainbikeworldwide.com/mountain-bike-tours-worldwide/key-mountain-bike-skills-part-3-how-to-bunny-hop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to bunny hop&lt;/a&gt;. When you're heading over a pothole you don't have to jump it, but apply the same idea of shifting your weight to be nice to the tires. When you approach a curb, you lift the front wheel as best you can (I can't actually do a bunny hop) and then shift your weight to it before the back wheel hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20175" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T07:40:15.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32518" CreationDate="2015-08-06T07:53:13.043" Score="2" ViewCount="3238" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Merida Cyclocross 3 bike has a &lt;strong&gt;double&lt;/strong&gt; chainring at the front. After a few weeks of being a little annoyed about the awkward shifting when going up steep hills, I realized that the front shifter and derailleur actually have &lt;strong&gt;three&lt;/strong&gt; positions. This means I basically have to shift twice to properly move the chain on the front chainring. If I only shift once, the derailleur ends up in some kind of chain rattling limbo state until I shift again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal? If not, what should I do about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20934" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T09:21:09.443" Title="Front shifter has three positions, but front chainring is only double. Is this a problem?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32517" CreationDate="2015-08-06T08:09:53.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's the trimming function on STI shifter as you have a Tiagra shifter set (at least in the UK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can adjust the front derailleur's adjusting barrel and move the derailleur a little bit to Low, so that it wouldn't rub on the chain when it's at trim level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you adjust the Low limit screw to make sure it wouldn't swing the chain off the small chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually you can shift straight to large chainring if you swing the shifter far enough (2 clicks instead of 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more on here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://coachlevi.com/cycling/how-to-shift-shimano-sti-levers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://coachlevi.com/cycling/how-to-shift-shimano-sti-levers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T09:21:09.443" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T09:21:09.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13651" CreationDate="2015-08-06T13:53:27.687" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure it is possible and Kits available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Replace-a-mountain-bike-front-fork-for-older-MTBs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Replace-a-mountain-bike-front-fork-for-older-MTBs/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20938" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T13:53:27.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32503" CreationDate="2015-08-06T14:54:54.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the 1950s, this type of braking system was becoming obsolete, so it's no later than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a few pictures on the net that look like your bike. They're all British, and all from the 1930s: &lt;a href=&quot;https://oldbike.wordpress.com/1939-ladies-loopframe-the-mercury-cycle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mercury&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sterba-bike.cz/produkt/bsa-ladies-1936?lang=EN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BSA&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickriver.com/groups/1385513@N22/pool/random/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raleigh&lt;/a&gt;. In those days, the British companies all basically made the same bikes, so it's hard to tell them apart. Look more closely at the front of the head tube - there might be a badge there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a good price? You'll probably spend way more than $70 to restore it, so it really doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T14:54:54.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15678" CreationDate="2015-08-06T15:23:17.273" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Current pumps are &quot;push-pull On&quot; and &quot;Pull-push Off&quot;.  ie. you have to push the pump head on the valve, then pull the lever to get the pump head on the valve, then reverse the process to remove it.  This new style took a two-hand problem and made it into a three hand problem.  I need one hand to hold the tire, one hand to hold the pump head in place and one hand to pull the lever.  Old style pumps were &quot;push-push On&quot; and &quot;Pull-Pull Off&quot;.  It only took one hand to get the pump head on or off leaving another hand to stabilize the bike.  That is what is needed. I have no idea why anyone, given the choice, would choose a new pump over an old one, but we aren't given a choice.  About 15 years ago, all manufacturers suddenly switched to a poor design and we have been stuck with it ever since. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20941" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T15:23:17.273" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-06T15:32:01.200" Score="-1" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3IcC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3IcC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Most current bike pumps require three hands to use - one to hold the tire, one to put the pump head on the valve and one to pull the lever back.  15 years ago, most bike pumps only required two hands to use because you could push the pump head on the valve and push the lever down with one hand and stabilize the bike with the other.  Does anyone know of anyone making this kind of old style bike pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20941" LastEditorUserId="20941" LastEditDate="2015-08-07T17:36:07.500" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:56:31.643" Title="Does anyone make a push-push on/ pull-pull off bike pump?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-07-22T12:39:20.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32523" CreationDate="2015-08-06T18:01:05.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For on the road, I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps/RoadMorphG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak Road Morph G&lt;/a&gt;. This pump has a hose, so it doesn't required that you hold the valve. It has a little tab that pulls out that you step on with your foot.  You can pump up a tire using one hand (and one foot) with this pump. You have a free hand to hold the wheel if you feel the need to hold the wheel while pumping. You can also use your free hand to hold the bike upright if you are just topping up the tire, and don't have something to lean the bike against and you don't want to lay the bike down on the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lezyne.com/product-hpumps-hp-microflrhp.php#.VcOgmrWX0cA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lezyne Micro Floor Drive&lt;/a&gt; pump also works similarly and might also be a good choice, but it's not as easily mountable on the bike in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T18:01:05.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14109" CreationDate="2015-08-06T19:22:46.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Full Disclosure, I work for ColdAvenger Face Masks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fogging is a difficult issue and our mask is only one part of the solution.  We designed the masks to protect your lungs and keep moisture away from your skin.  That being said, they do a great job with preventing fogging.  ColdAvenger masks have a hidden nose-wire built into the binding above the ventilator piece.  This helps seal humid air from escaping into your eye-wear.  The second component of keeping your glasses from fogging is the coating.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coatings are applied to new eye-wear and eventually rub off as you clean the lenses.  This coating needs to be reapplied to prevent fogging.  Cat crap is a great brand, as well as UVEX fog wipes.  One of the best solutions is just regular dish soap.  Just put a small dab on the lens and then rub it off with a non-scratching cloth.  This does wonders in preventing the phase change of water vapor on your glasses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, try not to touch your lenses as you can rub off the coating.  Also, don't move your eye-wear to your forehead.  This changes the temperature surrounding the lens and also adds extra moisture from brow sweat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.  We are passionate about our products and outdoor sports in the winter.  For more info you can check out our website, &lt;a href=&quot;http://coldavenger.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://coldavenger.com.&lt;/a&gt;  We will try to answer any questions you may have (about our products). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the most popular option for fat-biking.  I suggest looking up as you put it on.  This mimics your riding position and will make it more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://coldavenger.com/products/coldavenger-pro-softshell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ColdAvenger Pro Half Mask&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20944" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T19:22:46.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32462" CreationDate="2015-08-06T19:36:30.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, considering the cost of a replacement crank and/or chainwheel, I'd probably take the bicycle to a trusted local bike store and pay them to fix my mistake. If you make it worse, that's false economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could slot it with a Dremel, but before I did that I'd try a Torx bit first. Sometimes it is possible to force a Torx bit into a stripped Allen/hex-headed screw, and if the bit is short enough you might be able to force it in using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C-clamp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a clamp&lt;/a&gt; of appropriate size. Unless you protect the area around the bolt and have some solid Dremel skilz, I'd say the chance of marring the chainwheel and/or crank is pretty high if you go the Dremel route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heating the bolt with a butane torch lighter or propane torch could help, but I would not put the whole crank into the oven. You might try penetrating oil, followed by some heat, followed by some more penetrating oil, etc. Be careful not to overdo it; I would start slowly, and go slowly. I should note, I'm not a metallurgist, but I would think that too much heat is as bad as not enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too, I've never tried &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/E6SCwijgdyQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, but it might give you some ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="3985" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T19:41:55.673" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T19:41:55.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32538" CreationDate="2015-08-06T20:29:19.003" Score="3" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the week-end my bike suffered a bike crash while on a roof-top rack. On a whim, the driver decided to go through an underground parking lot, everything happened so fast, I did not have time to stop him. Anyway, what happened happened. Two cervélo R3 got caught in a chain, and both bike fell off the rack, breaking the rack and some bike components, &lt;em&gt;e.g.&lt;/em&gt; shifters, wheels and forks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some pictures of the damage on the bikes: &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/DABGr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;images&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We brought the bikes at our local bike shop, also a cervélo dealer. Their verdict was that my bike only needed minor repairs such as changing one shifter whereas the other bike has a cracked frame and would need a new frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is where I would like you opinion, since both bikes where involved in similar tensions and impacts, I do not feel comfortable keeping the frame. The specialist at the bike shop assured me it was &quot;ok&quot;, although I am not sure he would go downhill at 80 km/h on it. Since my personal insurance is covering the cost, can I suggest that the frame be changed?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20945" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T03:29:39.827" Title="Roof-top bike rack crash" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;damage&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-08-10T19:25:09.463" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32527" CreationDate="2015-08-06T22:09:16.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If bike-one has an aluminum frame and only the components were damaged, your LBS's assertion that it is 'ok' seems to be accurate, there's a good chance it could be ridden safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that doesn't mean it shouldn't be replaced. Like you said, it sustained quite an impact, it was clearly damaged, and I don't like the look of that cracked paint behind the front brake. You should push to have it replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T22:09:16.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-06T22:19:53.493" Score="3" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1980 Huffy &quot;Good Vibrations beach cruiser which has been in parts for a little while.  I was able to find and put back together everything except I am missing one of the metal cups which are at the top and bottom of the head tube of the frame where the handlebars/fork assembly goes through.  This little cup holds the bearings allowing the handlebars to be rotated freely without wobbling so this little piece is somewhat important to make the bike ridable again. I'm not sure of the exact name of this part unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where would I be able to find a replacement for this piece to be able to get my beach cruiser back on the road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20946" LastEditorUserId="20946" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T00:03:49.717" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T04:14:26.990" Title="Replacement of cup that holds bearings on huffy beach cruiser" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32532" CreationDate="2015-08-06T22:41:38.910" Score="1" ViewCount="1799" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to attach the double looped cable (bottom) to the frame: it's two metres long, and isn't convenient to wrap around the D-lock, etc. Has anyone done this? Since a clip (top) can't get past the loops on the ends, the only way I can think of is to saw the clip in half and then stick it back together on the cable, but this seems a bit... dumb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgsIk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dgsIk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EX7bv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EX7bv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19321" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T23:35:04.123" Title="Attaching a Kryptoflex cable (Kryptonite) to the frame" Tags="&lt;security&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32530" CreationDate="2015-08-06T22:47:34.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unlock the U-lock.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put the loops on the cable onto the U of the U-lock.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Clip the U-lock to the frame as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is not adequate, use 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a piece of velcro to tie the cable in place to the frame. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T22:47:34.890" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32530" CreationDate="2015-08-06T23:35:04.123" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, if understand correctly, the lock is mounted on the down tube as sketched below? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, you could try placing the &quot;U&quot; part of the D-lock in the frame mount, hold one loop of the cable on one end of the &quot;U&quot;, wrap the cable around the seat post &amp;amp; up over the top tube, then back down to the D-lock &amp;amp; then place the locking mechanism on (also as shown in the sketch below). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this in the ballpark? It may keep the cable in tight enough to keep from rubbing on your legs.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jGNJL.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jGNJL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T23:35:04.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32535" CreationDate="2015-08-06T23:59:49.057" Score="4" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen this done, and it probably has a name or another way of describing it that I have not thought of, but I cannot find information about it on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When stopped at an intersection, some cyclists will turn their front wheel to the side, and it seems to help them stay on the bike while the bike is not moving forward. Unless I'm imagining things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know how to do this, how it works, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20947" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T00:19:01.860" Title="Is there a way to rest at an intersection without (partially) dismounting the bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-08-07T19:50:21.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32533" CreationDate="2015-08-07T00:09:23.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The technique you're probably thinking of is doing a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Track_stand&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;track stand&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T00:09:23.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32533" CreationDate="2015-08-07T00:11:57.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It called a track stand. It originates in track racing on a velodrome, where in the opening stages of the individual sprint event you sometimes need to come to an almost complete halt. Tricky and dangerous to do if not well practiced, it can end in a 'sprawl of shame' if your technique is not perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastEditorUserId="20322" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T00:19:01.860" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T00:19:01.860" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38554" CreationDate="2015-08-07T02:08:58.447" Score="5" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a 35km return commute into a big city. Almost daily, someone tries to run me over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in the past month I've experienced the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I filter to the front of the traffic, wait at the front of the bike lane, and the car behind me who is not blocked at all, because i'm a meter over to the left into the bike lane, makes a sharp turn into my lane to deliberately drive into the back of my bicycle, while the lights are still red. I have to do an emergency takeoff and left turn through the red into a side street to get away.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cycling along a major road in the bike lane at night with bright flashing lights at the front of my bike and red light at the rear. I ride past a side street where someone is waiting to turn right, and as I'm directly in front of his car, he slams on the gas and pulls out, narrowly avoiding cleaning me up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Going through a roundabout, in the middle of the lane, lights on, broad daylight. Following about 20m behind the car in front of me. Again, go past a side street, and the driver pulls out at full speed just as i'm going past him. Only narrowly avoid getting run over because I scream out some sort of profanity at a voice breaking volume and he backs off slightly. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you deal with attempts on your life by people who are more focussed on eating their macdonalds and throwing their cigarette butts out the window than the safety of other road users?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20949" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T07:07:20.503" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T01:16:48.670" Title="Dealing with homicidal drivers" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="12" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-30T01:31:18.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32527" CreationDate="2015-08-07T03:29:39.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem here is that with a carbon or aluminum frame it will be hard to assess the damage accurately (at least with the tools that we or a LBS is likely to have). The best tool that you've got is evidence of stress on the frame – like the cracked paint in the photos of bike 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to this the likelihood that aluminum or carbon will fail dramatically and suddenly if they are damaged and it just seems prudent to replace the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T03:29:39.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-07T08:48:42.537" Score="3" ViewCount="883" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between road bike disc wheels /&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.windsailbike.com/cyclocross-wheels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cyclocross disc wheels&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20952" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T01:17:07.197" Title="What's the difference between road bike disc brake wheels /cyclosross wheels?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32539" CreationDate="2015-08-07T09:36:26.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cyclocoss will tend to be wider to accommodate the wider tires used in cyclocross.  And tend to be sturdier.  Are you buying the wheels for a road or cyclocross?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-07T09:48:39.567" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T09:48:39.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-07T13:18:27.693" Score="4" ViewCount="3900" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of weeks ago, I broke 2 spokes and my rear wheel (27 inch) was seriously bent. I replaced these spokes and re-trued the wheel, but the next day the same thing happened, another 2 spokes snapped and my wheel was bent again. So I replaced the spokes again and re-trued the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure enough, the next day I broke 3 more spokes. I have repeated this &quot;cycle&quot; 5 times now within the last 2 weeks and I have no idea what I am doing wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought the spokes were too lose so I made them all tighter, while ensuring that there was even tension around the wheel and a little extra tension on the freewheel side. When this failed I thought that maybe I had them too tight, so I tried again with the spokes a little looser but this failed too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wheel was purchased only 2 months ago and I have probably ridden it probably 1500 km. I also weigh about 85kg (190lb) and I very rarely ride on anything not paved. I am not convinced that the wheel has met its expected end of life based on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cant determine why my wheel keeps breaking over and over again. Either there is something I am doing critically wrong in the truing process, the wheel is irreparable, or the bike shop just sold me a bad wheel. At what point should I just give up and buy a new wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been spray painting the spokes as i put new ones in and i found that the non painted spokes were breaking. Also they were breaking at the hub flange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have fixed the wheel to the point where I can ride it without the spokes breaking, but i still need to true it a little more. Im still not sure what I was doing wrong though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20954" LastEditorUserId="20954" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T16:34:36.677" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T18:56:42.883" Title="Spokes keep breaking" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-07T14:07:19.950" Score="3" ViewCount="2279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an urban bike that comes with a single gear crankset with a 42 tooth sprocket and an 8 speed rear with 12-36 teeth. I would like to swap out the front sprocket to a larger one to gain more top end speed. I'm thinking 48-53 teeth depending on what I find. I wonder how I would go about doing this. Can I just screw off the 42 and attach a 48 to the existing crankset and then lengthen the chain a bit? Or would I need to purchase a new crankset? Would I need to adjust the rear derailleur if I run a larger front sprocket? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20955" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T16:38:07.677" Title="Larger sproket on a single speed crankset?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32536" CreationDate="2015-08-07T14:52:36.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I appreciate the attitude towards the people driving around in a climate killing, lansdscape scarring murderweapon you display just in your subject but my first suggestion would be to soften your stance a bit, and take the opposing point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These people are likely not out to kill you. They are just not used to small, climatefriendly fitnessmachines on their roads. So from time to time when they quickly check the corner of their eye looking for a big hunk of metal they miss the small, soft piece of flesh, bones and lycra. Sad but true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you realise this some solutions present themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you are the party dying, you should be extra carefull. Even though you have the traffic rules on your side, they won't help you when you are dead. Look ahead, slow down so you have some energy to spare, get good brakes, get good tires that have good grip in all circumstances, make sure your glasses are sweat-free, don't spend all your time looking at your fancy cycling computer, don't wear noise-cancelling headphones, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other party is looking for something about the size of a car. Perhaps you can ride in a group of three or four people? Toghether you present a bigger &quot;object&quot; to spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With enough exposure people can get used to anything. Encourage other people to bike around your city, join advocacy groups, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(last resort) become an educational news item. Stick some camera's on your bike and maybe get a fancy drone with &quot;follow me&quot; mode to make sure your inevitable (near)death or (near)serious maiming is properly recorded, then send the spectacular but gory images to all local tv-stations and websites willing to show them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm being intentionally facetious towards the end here, but you get the idea. In many parts of the world the bike is a new type of road participant. This introduces some friction with the old road participants as they get used to the new situation. Calling people homicidal won't help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T14:52:36.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32547" CreationDate="2015-08-07T15:24:47.790" Score="2" ViewCount="2942" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was out biking today when I noticed the pedals were moving side to side, with the pedal arm almost coming off the left side. As I was investigating the washer with &quot;LH fsa AL&quot; actually came off in my hand. I re-installed it and tightened it up by hand, but obviously its tight with a big gap between the pedal arm and the bottom bracket now as below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it simply a matter of removing this washer, pushing the arm back towards the bottom bracket and tightening it? And if so what tools do I need? I've got allen keys, screwdrivers and various other general tools, but I haven't got anything with 6 holes like it looks like id need to remove it.&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIXzj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UIXzj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oumQ9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oumQ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20957" LastActivityDate="2017-05-24T13:14:44.243" Title="Crank sliding horizontally through the bottom bracket" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;tools&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32542" CreationDate="2015-08-07T15:29:50.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll have to wait until you get the bike &amp;amp; measure the distance between the holes, using this &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;method&lt;/a&gt;. Then you can order the appropriate size chainring. Such as those &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/chainrings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than trying to lengthen the chain, I would recommend you buy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-z8s-7-8-speed-chain/rp-prod46601&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;new one&lt;/a&gt; as you will be much less likely to have a tight or bent link this way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not need to make any adjustments to the derailleur if you are only changing out the front chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T15:29:50.470" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32536" CreationDate="2015-08-07T15:42:05.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you often have people coming at you from the side, you need to make yourself more visible from the side.  Many front and back lights don't actually illuminate much to the side.  To make yourself more visible, especially at night, add reflectors to your bike. You can go for the basic wheel reflectors, and you can also put white reflective tape along your forks, and red reflective tape along your seat stays (It's mandatory where I live, not that anybody does it).  This will help you to be illuminated from the car headlights or street lights. Also consider getting a reflective vest for riding at night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T15:42:05.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32544" CreationDate="2015-08-07T15:50:36.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need a large allen key, often an 8mm to tighten that centre bolt right down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'll pull the crank arm onto the spindle and secure it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The LH-FSA-AL ring is the self extracting bolt, the internal hex bolt pushes on the back of it to pull the crank off without extra tools. That has a left hand thread so that it doesn't unscrew as the internal bolt unscrews. It only really needs to be tight enough to stop it from coming out, finger tight probably isn't enough though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need a pin spanner for this which is a pretty specialised tool, I've certainly never had need to buy one, so you might want to pop down your LBS and ask them to tighten it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T15:50:36.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32541" CreationDate="2015-08-07T15:56:51.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest cause of broken spokes, that I know of, is inadequate tension. When the spokes are tight enough they flex a little bit with every turn of the wheel as the spokes at the bottom of the wheel unload slightly and then tighten again as they move around to the top. Over time this bending back and forth weakens the spokes – usually at the bend where they pass through the hub – and eventually they break. The cure is to build the wheel with sufficient tension to prevent the flexing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wheel is old (and since it is a 27&quot; wheel, I'm inclined to think it is) then the damage may already be done – although it sounds like you've replaced close to half of the spokes by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above assumes that you're riding a more-or-less normal bike in more-or-less a normal way…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be much more help to you it would be helpful to have answers to the comments on the original question above. As a very quick and dirty check of tension you could grab a &quot;handful of spokes&quot; (a set of 4 from both sides of the wheel) where they cross and try squeezing them. It should be quite hard to get any flex out of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T15:56:51.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32542" CreationDate="2015-08-07T15:58:48.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a fairly standard looking crank, chainrings should be readily available in a variety of sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I searched on the specs the pictures and listings didn't match, so you'll have to measure to be sure what you have in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you might want to actually try riding the bike as it is, turning your legs at a fairly standard 90 rpm is around 40kmh with the top existing gearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2015-08-07T16:17:39.500" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T16:17:39.500" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32542" CreationDate="2015-08-07T16:38:07.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general answer is, &quot;yes, you can change chainrings&quot; – chainring is bicycle talk for the front sprocket. The more specific answer will depend on the actual crankset the bike is built with. There are some that don't make it easy to remove a chainring or where replacement rings are hard to find. To know for sure you'd want to have the bike in hand and check – unless you know the make and model of the crankset that comes with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that said, I think it would be a good thing to hold off for a while on changing anything. In general (again) pedaling at a higher speed (meaning higher RPMs which cyclists call cadence) is easier on your knees and overall endurance. So I'd encourage you to experiment with the existing setup first. At 70 RPM, which many would consider to be on the low side, your top gear (42x12) will give you about 32 km/h (20 mph) and up at 90 RPM you'd be doing 40 km/h (25 mph). Those are respectable speeds on the flat. Downhill you'll be able to go faster (if you want to), but at some point you'll &quot;spin out&quot; and find that you can't pedal fast enough to push the bike any faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide that you want more speed (or more speed at a lower cadence) then you have two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A larger chainring in the front (which will make all of your gears higher), or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One or more smaller cogs in the rear (which will make the individual gears higher). The easy way to make this change is to buy a new cassette (the set of rear gears). You could go to a cassette with 11 teeth on the small cog which would take you up to 35 km/h at 70 RPM.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of changing cassettes is that the interface is pretty well defined (unlike chainrings where there are lots of little gotchas) and the cost is lower (in general). Over time you'll wear out cassettes, so you'll be changing your's from time to time anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to play with possible gearing scenarios the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gear-calculator.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HTML5 Gear Calculator&lt;/a&gt; makes it quite easy to see what the impact will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T16:38:07.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32556" CreationDate="2015-08-07T17:01:32.400" Score="9" ViewCount="16611" Body="&lt;p&gt;All else being equal (power output, weather, wind resistance, etc.), how much faster will I be if I lose 10kg (going from 100kg to 90kg) while riding? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acceleration and climbing might be much different, but while riding steadily on a flatish road outputting the same power as before, how will my cruising speed change ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T10:41:27.737" Title="How much faster will I be if I lose 10kg (from 100kg, all else equal)" Tags="&lt;speed&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32523" CreationDate="2015-08-07T20:32:11.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lever on SKS Multi Valve head works the way you are looking for. It comes standard on new SKS floor pumps and you can install one on pumps from other brands, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I have used what you call new style head for about ten years and never felt the need for a third hand. The benefit of the new style is that the lever's rest position is flush against the hose where it doesn't snag at anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T20:32:11.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32551" CreationDate="2015-08-07T23:26:39.903" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikecalculator.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BikeCalculator&lt;/a&gt;, assuming you drop 10 kg while everything else remains the same (power output, etc.), you would travel 0.3 km/hr faster over a 50 km ride, on the average. In other words, at 100 kg, assuming an average power output of 150 Watts, you'd average 27.54 km/hr over a 50km ride if you weighed 100 kg; doing the same ride at the same 150 Watt average output, you'd average 27.84 km/hr if you weighed 90 kg. That's an increase of very slightly over 1% in speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having just gone from 100 kg to just under 90 kg over the past couple of months, however, I'd say that BikeCalculator understates the practical impact of losing that kind of weight. Since climbing, in particular, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/training/fitness/formula-faster-climbing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;is basically all about the power to weight ratio&lt;/a&gt;, I have certainly noticed how climbing has gotten easier and how I can go faster up various climbs, and I intend to drop another 9-10 kg. For example, if you ride on a mix of terrain, both flat and climbing, you will gain more than 1% in average speed. Assuming the same average power as above, here is how average speed will increase with a 10 kg weight loss for climbs of different slope. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LtkK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3LtkK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Speed increase with weight loss by slope&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck dropping the weight and keeping it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastEditorUserId="2195" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T16:48:49.940" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T16:48:49.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32559" CreationDate="2015-08-08T02:55:32.140" Score="11" ViewCount="7344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got a Brooks B17 and am having trouble finding a comfortable angle. If it's level, I tend to slide forward. If it's angled up to the point where I don't tend to slide forward, I feel pressure on my perineum. A worrisome amount of pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't had such an issue with other saddles (plastic based saddles with cutouts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the Brooks I've compromised so it's angled slightly up, slight tendency to slide forward, slight pressure down there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: I'm hoping when it breaks in the tendency to slide forward will be reduced, that my sit bones will create indentations that reduce the forward slide. Anyone know if this will happen? Any tips?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a touring setup, saddle about as high as the bar tops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T23:41:20.103" LastActivityDate="2018-11-07T23:39:28.643" Title="Brooks saddle angle dilemma" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31817" CreationDate="2015-08-08T04:29:01.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to get tears around the valve stem is by not supporting the pump head and stem while you're pumping up the tire with a frame pump (the kind where you are pushing on the stem as you pump up the tire, like in the photo below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the way the person's left hand is holding the pump and the rim. The idea is to stabilize the head of the pump so that no stress is placed on the valve stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9W4W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9W4W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pumping up a tire with a frame pump&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T04:29:01.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32557" CreationDate="2015-08-08T04:30:10.763" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed the same thing when I first got a B17. I fiddled with various angles and so forth, but in the end I found it's mainly just a matter of getting used to the smoother feel of leather as compared to the plastic you're used to. You slide over leather more easily, especially if you wear typical bike shorts, and this gives you the sensation that you're going to slide forward since you're not used to a smooth surface. But you won't. Your position in the saddle is maintained by your arms and core no matter what sort of saddle you have, not the saddle itself. The smoothness of a leather saddle is actually a benefit, not a drawback, and you'll come to appreciate it if you give it time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, breaking in helps a bit but it's not necessary. Just getting used to the new feel is all that's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a lot of trial and error, I ended up setting my saddle perfectly level just as I had with my plastic saddles. The temptation to tilt the nose upward just because the material is smooth should be resisted, as you've already discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T04:30:10.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32536" CreationDate="2015-08-08T04:45:53.300" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many cities, doing a 35 km (22 mi) commute will take you through parts of the city with different socioeconomic levels and different driver behaviors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclist behavior that works well in one part of the city can lead to road rage in another place. It's valuable to recognize this and adapt your approach at different parts of your commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some years ago, my commute took me through some quiet streets of a well-to-do suburb of mostly older residents. It took a few interactions, where a driver would look right at me and then apparently try to run me down, for me to realize that they simply didn't see me. They were looking for cars. It's like &lt;em&gt;These are not the 'Droids you're looking for&lt;/em&gt;. They are looking for cars, not bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing the area you're riding from, I would describe it (for other readers) as rural / urban interface. There are new developments, and little infrastructure. Roads become congested early, and stay congested late. It's also Winter here now, so it's often only half-light or dark when commuting. Because of the ongoing development there is a higher than usual number of tradesmen (tradies) driving utes (pickups for US readers) and commercial vehicles. Their focus is on getting to their current job. It's not an area where I would &lt;em&gt;choose&lt;/em&gt; to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, either recognize the local conditions and adapt to them in a safe way, or find another route. Another route may not seem practical, but on a 35km commute, a safer route that involves a 3km detour will not be much slower (it may even be quicker), and could save you hospital time in the future. You could maybe drive a short distance to the start of your safer route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another change you could make is to use a helmet-mounted light. They shine where you look. So when you &lt;strong&gt;look&lt;/strong&gt;, the drivers are more likely to notice you. Be careful not to get one that's too bright though. If you dazzle the driver then they actually can't see you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T22:58:08.563" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T22:58:08.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32536" CreationDate="2015-08-08T13:01:29.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you live in a region with efficient and non-corrupt police? Then it might be useful to get advice from them, and report the incidents to them. The police can sometimes act even if there has not been an actual collision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description, it seems that you think that driver behaviour is the problem, not your own skills. You should of course check if you can do anything yourself to be safer (the other replies give advice on that), but driver behaviour is definitely often an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dangerous behaviour can be due to several factors, and without knowing the specifics of each incident it is not really possible to judge. It could be anything from inexperience, honest mistakes, misjudging a complicated situation, inattention, not knowing how much space cyclists need, all the way to people who have a grudge against cyclists for whatever reason and deliberately try to &quot;teach you a lesson&quot;, for example a &quot;punishment pass&quot; that doesn't quite hit you but scares you to death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you feel threatened or in danger, then you should contact to the police. If they are competent, they will be able to judge if drivers threaten you deliberately, but in most countries there are also laws that cover dangerous or careless driving. It might be difficult to have enough evidence, but often the police can at least speak to the driver or even issue a warning, which may already help to make them aware and change their behaviour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it happens frequently, then you should think about getting a camera to collect evidence. But note that recording others is not legal in all countries. You should definitely be careful before you upload clips on the internet - besides being possibly illegal, it can also reduce the chances of getting a conviction, because a widely shared youtube video can mean (in some jurisdictions) that the accused can't get a fair trial, so the case will not even be tried. Therefore, do show the video to the police first, get advice if they can do anything, but don't put it on youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides driver behaviour, there are also cases where the road design leads to conflict, e.g. cycle lanes dumping you into fast traffic where drivers don't expect you, or bad sightlines at junctions. Again, it is helpful to report such incidents, as many police forces need this information to know about &quot;hotspots&quot; to focus their work on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastEditorUserId="18723" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T07:07:10.547" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T07:07:10.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-08T13:28:10.603" Score="2" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano compact double on my road bike with an 11-28 Cassette (50-34 Chainrings).  I would like to change the cassette to 11-32.  Is that possible and if it is are there other components I need to change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20966" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T17:37:07.710" Title="Shimano Cassette Change" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32562" CreationDate="2015-08-08T15:08:10.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need a new chain, since the chain will be slightly longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to see what the ratings of your rear derailleur are. It has to have enough capacity (i.e. the capacity rating has to be greater than or equal to large chainring - small chainring + large cog - small cog) for your setup. It also has to have appropriate ratings for the largest and smallest cog (i.e. the smallest cog rating has to be &amp;lt;= your smallest cog on the cassette [this is practically never a problem], largest cog rating has to be &gt;= the largest cog on your cassette). If your RD meets these, great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your rear derailleur doesn't meet these, well, you need a new one. Here you have to match the cable pulls. Shimano 7-9 speed have the same cable pulls between road and mountain so you can use any RD in the 7-9 speed case, if you have 7-9 speed shifters. Shimano 10 speed mountain uses a different cable pull than Shimano 10 speed road (which is the same cable pull as 9 speed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T15:08:10.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4787" CreationDate="2015-08-08T16:06:57.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK not the question as stated but&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What hub?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Most newer hubs have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/20mm-End-Caps-for-330HD-Hub--P838.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;conversion&lt;/a&gt; kits. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it cost effective?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/ZTR-Crest-C163.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stans Crest&lt;/a&gt; that is a decent wheel the full wheel with hub is $600 and the rim is $100.  Unless you have a high end rim it is probably not cost effective if you are paying a shop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't mean to advertise Stan's and I am not associated with Stan's.  Just using Stan's as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just now noticed this is an old question.  I would not even have answered if I had realized that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T16:06:57.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32482" CreationDate="2015-08-08T16:18:30.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fenders on my MTB is made from plastic similar to those used in scuba fins, so they are fairly flexible, so when something does jam, they bend slightly and bend back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first installed them, I installed them very close to the wheel (&amp;lt;1cm), after some very muddy terrain, a couple of small rocks came through the front fender and front wheel causing extra vibration on the front fenders causing the bolts to eventually loosen causing the fender to slip down and grind on top of the wheel.&#xA;They didn't jam the wheel, but the distraction of destroying my brand new fenders was enough to almost wipe out over a cliff.&#xA;I've since lifted them much higher and tightened the bolts much tighter and haven't had any issues in the last 1500km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iEnWQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iEnWQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;front fender&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rear fender is suspended above the wheel - on several occasions the fender either went to the right or to the left causing me to keep on looking backwards to see if the fender is still in place (dangerous if you're in traffic), I eventually had to use thick cable ties to keep it in place since the built-in bracket can only go so tight before the bracket starts coming apart.&#xA;Also, after a very rocky downhill, the top bolt that keeps the fender's height above the wheel consistent came loose and the fender dropped downwards and started grinding on the wheel, had to tighten up the bolt extra tight and also cable-tie it up so it doesn't slip down again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z61OY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z61OY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear fender&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So from my experience, if your fenders have a bit of a lip and they are soft scuba-fin-plastic, they won't jam your wheel, but they are still dangerous enough if they drop onto the wheel and distract you from what is in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20963" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T16:18:30.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32523" CreationDate="2015-08-08T16:45:37.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not take me three hands&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtsztWC-_8U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to pump a tire&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One good reason for down to be the open position is storage, transportation, and longevity.  Most people would store in the down position.  For a frame mounted pump you definitely want to store / transport with the lever in down position.  For longevity of the rubber seal in the head it is better to store it in the open position.  You use force to close it but is must open itself.  Stored scrunched the rubber will lose elasticity faster than if stored in the open position.   Even if it goes brittle in open position you might still get one more pump out of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T16:45:37.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32562" CreationDate="2015-08-08T17:37:07.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My  tiagra on giant defy 2014 handled the change from 30T to 32T maximum without too much fettling needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends of derailleur and bike angle where they meet too, you need to adjust B screw so that the top wheel of the derailleur is moved 'back' from the cog&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's one of the most popular questions on bike forums, and i looked at a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end you have to decide if you can do it yourself and buy a new cassette (and then new longer chain) cost around $50? for both, or just ask your bike shop, let them take the worry/hassle and pay for their labour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20968" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T17:37:07.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31817" CreationDate="2015-08-08T19:58:17.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rim strips are not expensive, so if you have doubts, get a fresh rim strip. What they call &quot;rim tape&quot; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/X8NfF3vTY08&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this &quot;how to install a rim strip&quot; video&lt;/a&gt; is actually what most refer to as a rim strip; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/velox-rim-tape/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rim tape&lt;/a&gt; is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, since you've had two tubes fail in the same location, I'd suggest that you not see if a third one will do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding a pump for use out on the road, I'd recommend something with a hose, like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lezyne.com/products-handpumps.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lezyne&lt;/a&gt; or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.topeak.com/products/Pumps/RoadMorphG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Topeak Road Morph&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T19:58:17.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2015-08-08T20:37:34.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with a lot of mnemonics is that it depends on which side of the bike you are looking at. Since Shimano pedals are attached using a hex wrench from the side opposite the pedal, the &quot;righty-tighty&quot; rule does not really work effectively. What I remember is the way the bolt has to turn is &quot;ride on, back off&quot;. In other words, if you want to put the pedal on, you turn the bolt the direction you would ride (forward on top), where if you want to take it off, you turn it backward (back off -- top turning to rear of bike). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20969" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T20:37:34.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-08T22:16:11.107" Score="2" ViewCount="3166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering upgrading to an Ultegra groupset, found a very good price online, but I do not know what bottom bracket is in my bike. I have a 2015 Giant Defy 2, aluminum frame, and to me, this looks like a press fit bottom bracket. However, the technical documentation that I got when I purchased the bike from a local bike shop says it has a Shimano BB4600, which is a threaded bottom bracket and looks nothing like what is on my bike so far as I can see. The only press-fit option with this groupset available is the BB71-41B. Can someone tell me if this will possibly work with my bike, or how I would go about determining compatibility? Additionally, since the crankset on the bike now is a Tiagra crankset, would it be possible to just swap it out with the ultegra crankset and leave the BB alone? Thanks.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDQz7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDQz7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bottom Bracket Non Drive Side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20970" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T00:40:53.940" Title="Giant Defy 2 Bottom Bracket" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32572" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-08T22:29:27.157" Score="1" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have these shifters in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/32474/the-shifter-for-the-front-derailleur-is-soft-in-my-vintage-bike&quot;&gt;my old bike and it has problems&lt;/a&gt; with the gears because the shifter for the front gears doesn't change the gears at all. It seems like a tension problem. So I need to make the tension higher but I have no idea how to do that because I'm not experienced in bikes at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a picture for the shifter I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uobUE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uobUE.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T22:57:09.407" Title="How to fix the tension in these shifters?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32572" CreationDate="2015-08-08T22:57:09.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Follow the cable from the shifter down to the front derailleur. At the derailleur the cable housing will end and the inner cable will continue to a screw on the derailleur that clamps the cable, take a moment to look at derailleur and find the lever that the screw is on and push it. That should move the cage of the derailleur (the part that shifts the chain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the derailleur is moving freely, check the cable it should be relatively tight and should move when you move the lever. If that's not happening – perhaps all you're doing is changing the amount of slack in the cable, then adjusting the tension should help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short explanation is to move the lever all the way up (to slack the cable as much as possible). Then loosen the clamp screw on the derailleur and pull the cable through to take up all the slack, then tighten the screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more detail, check out this post on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;adjusting your front derailleur&lt;/a&gt; from Park Tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T22:57:09.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18029" CreationDate="2015-08-08T23:33:56.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I drill hole at center of plastic screw about 1/4&#xA;inch and the broken screw Strat turning with some work it come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20971" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T23:33:56.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32571" CreationDate="2015-08-09T00:24:13.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultegra is still hollowtech II. It seems like the Defy 2 in the UK has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/defy.2/19187/77295/#specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pressfit&lt;/a&gt; bottom bracket for hollowtech II cranks, while in the US it has an usual threaded &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/defy.2/18733/76109/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hollowtech II&lt;/a&gt; bottom bracket. In any case, you need a hollowtech II compatible bottom bracket, which you already have (Tiagra is Hollowtech II only).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remove the current crankset and put in the ultegra crankset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside: This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/complete-guide-to-bottom-brackets-36660/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guide&lt;/a&gt; from BikeRadar summarizes bottom bracket standards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T00:40:53.940" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T00:40:53.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32579" CreationDate="2015-08-09T01:53:30.987" Score="1" ViewCount="1519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering making the above change in crank sets primarily because 53/39 is really hard on the hills here. I have 11-28 at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see a downside to this since it seems like I will always be in the middle of the cassette while climbing. Of course my speed on the flats will take a hit but I don't spend too much time on 53/11. Also if it seems like too much, I can always go for 11-25 in the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate any comments on your experience with a 46/30. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; So I decided to crunch some numbers. Also, I'm considering the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cxmagazine.com/ird-defiant-wide-compact-crankset-gravel-range-46-30-2015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;IRD Defiant Wide Compact&lt;/a&gt;. The following &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&amp;amp;KB=34,50&amp;amp;RZ=11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28&amp;amp;UF=2125&amp;amp;TF=80&amp;amp;SL=1.5&amp;amp;UN=MPH&amp;amp;GR2=DERS&amp;amp;KB2=30,46&amp;amp;RZ2=11,12,14,16,18,21,24,28&amp;amp;UF2=2125&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comparison&lt;/a&gt; is between the usual compact (50/34) and the IRD (46/30). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combinations with a chain angle greater than 1.5° are grayed out. I think this analysis confirms that my ability on flats and descents will be different (different gear ratios).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the effect on climbs (within the chain angle constraint) is equivalent to swapping the 2.43 ratio (on the 34) for the 1.25 (on the 30) which is fine by me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmVCK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MmVCK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First ride update:&lt;/strong&gt; As expected, I can't mash and accelerate anymore, but it doesn't matter. I really enjoy the high cadence and the fact that I can still hit the same speeds as before (albeit slower). I'm looking forward to my first big climb on Wednesday!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4378" LastEditorUserId="4378" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T21:54:01.050" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T21:54:01.050" Title="46/30 from a 53/39" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32578" CreationDate="2015-08-09T03:13:18.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traditional 53/39 is basically what a pro would use, it's for speed as the top priority. Even some pros are using compact cranksets to help with climbing. 50/34 is the the normal next step down, but 46/30 just makes it easier again. Only drawback is that when shifting down to the small chain ring, the chain can come off. But a good derailleur should prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastEditorUserId="20322" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T09:50:41.963" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T09:50:41.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32656" CreationDate="2015-08-09T14:49:08.377" Score="-3" ViewCount="1836" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the furthest anyone has cycled without food in an official race setting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastEditorUserId="19106" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T22:09:11.503" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T09:42:50.450" Title="How far can one cycle without food?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;long-distance&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-08-18T13:21:34.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T15:12:05.053" Score="0" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bicycle with Presta valves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I buy a Presta pump or a Schader pump and a Presta-to-Schader adapter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20977" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T00:16:42.690" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T19:25:43.223" Title="Presta valve pump or presta adapter" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32581" CreationDate="2015-08-09T15:16:28.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should buy a presta pump, especially if your wheels already have presta valves. But one fitted with a pressure gauge as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T15:16:28.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28700" CreationDate="2015-08-09T16:05:10.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just spent 2 hours searching in the grass for that blasted ball bearing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the other out and have measured it. Since I have no micrometer, I set up a camera and place the bearing on a high quality tape measure. I photographed the ball on the scale. Cropped the image and blew it up to 400 odd times. Then measured the bearing on my screen with the tape measure, compared it to the length of 1mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that the ball was 134 mm on my screen, and in the same image, 1mm was 65 mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this in mind, I find the ball to be 2.0615 mm. Since this is an american product, I am assuming it is an imperial ball bearing of size 5/64th inches. This is within my error bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the task the ball bearing has, I would say either a 2mm ball bearing or a 5/64&quot; ball bearing would do the job perfectly. As my housemate says, &quot;that's as close as feck is to swearing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mr Winter (Physics teacher too impatient to wait for a micrometer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20978" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T16:05:10.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T16:09:42.637" Score="1" ViewCount="2903" Body="&lt;p&gt;Picture is worth a thousand words, so I'll skip right to it.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V0nIu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;overall view&quot;&gt;&#xA;Here's a closeup view:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etck6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;closeup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel is about 3 months old, has under 500 miles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5647" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T19:07:32.520" Title="Is this rim safe to ride?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32584" CreationDate="2015-08-09T16:20:36.687" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say no! There is a visible fissure. The joint was not perfectly welded and opened. I'd take that one back to the shop and have a serious discussion. Of course it could have cracked when you rode over an obstacle and if you hit it right at the weld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T16:20:36.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32581" CreationDate="2015-08-09T16:28:44.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't actually have to decide :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bicycles you want a pump that is capable of pretty high pressures (at least relative to a car) and most bicycle pumps can do either Presta or Schrader valves. Many floor pumps have a reversible head (two heads in one). For frame pumps it is common for the pump head to be convertible between Presta and Schrader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a reason to support Schrader valves life will probably be simpler if you have your pump set up for Presta valves, but I think it is a good idea to also carry a Presta-to-Schrader adapter with you. They are very light. If the rest of your world is Schrader then it might be more convenient to just put adapters on both of your wheels and pretend that they have Schrader valves. Moving the adapter around on a regular basis will probably get old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T16:28:44.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32584" CreationDate="2015-08-09T16:36:00.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the specs for the rim (or tell us what kind of rim you've got). There are two ways to join a rim. One is to weld the joint, the other is to use a sleeve inside of the rim extrusion that aligns the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your rim is welded, then I would be inclined to agree with Carel. But it if is sleeved then it seems likely that what you're seeing is a slight imperfection in the alignment of the ends&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need to &quot;adhere&quot; the ends of the rim to each other. The load created by the spokes put the rim in compression. There is no tendency on a built wheel for the ends of the rim to pull apart. The point of welding or sleeving the joint is to keep the ends in alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T16:36:00.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32584" CreationDate="2015-08-09T16:59:35.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is. The rim joints are never perfect after pinning or welding. Rims that are intended for rim brakes are machined afterwards to have a smooth surface. This rim has instead been painted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crack comes from the pinned joint. The spokes are pulling the rim together with enough force to keep it from breaking apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This being said, rims intended for rim brakes are also thicker at braking surface to compensate for wear. If these are Deep V's, you are fine. If something else, check if there is a rim brake version of the same rim. Rims not meant for rim brakes do not necessarily last long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="10595" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T19:07:32.520" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T19:07:32.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32589" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T18:04:37.790" Score="2" ViewCount="1780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for an old fashioned style bicycle. &lt;b&gt;I had a bad accident on a new bicycle and I feel safer with with an old-style bike.&lt;/b&gt; I've never crashed before and I've been riding bicycles for over 40 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20979" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T01:01:50.487" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T15:13:05.027" Title="Looking for an old fashioned bicycle with coaster brakes &amp; hand brakes for a woman" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32589" CreationDate="2015-08-09T19:09:03.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are still made! Try a search for &quot;bicycle coaster brake.&quot; You can narrow it to a &quot;woman's&quot; frame by adding &quot;mixte&quot; or &quot;step through&quot; or &quot;woman's&quot; to the key words. If you want gears add &quot;3-speed&quot; or &quot;internally geared.&quot; Those searches will get you quite a range of bikes – from retro beach cruisers to very modern urban bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you find some that appeal to you, post some links. There are plenty of folks here who can help you evaluate the differences between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T19:25:52.637" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T19:25:52.637" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3390" CreationDate="2015-08-09T19:25:42.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just adding anecdotal data: InStep trailer, removed upper fabric (kept bottom), added two additional square-steel-tubing bars between front and back rails, resting on those rails and affixed with screws. Normally carries two 18-gallon plastic bins directly; with bungees to stabilize them I can stack two more on top . That's plenty of space for a supermarket run.  I've also used it to transport a Crate &amp;amp; Barrel-style  end-table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most important detail is keeping tires fully inflated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I probably don't really need to secure it, but I can loop a heavy cable thru the welded frame and wheels I necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11505" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T19:25:42.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32589" CreationDate="2015-08-09T19:30:47.030" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finding a mix of step brake and hand is not going to be easy   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider disc brakes.  They have more power and are WAY less effected by rain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By old fashioned women do you mean step through?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.konaworld.com/coco.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;disc with set through&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T19:30:47.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T20:50:08.213" Score="13" ViewCount="8214" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a little embarrassing, so I hope no one makes fun of me... But I am a big girl. I always have been. Very big frame, big shoulders, big head, hands and feet. My whole life I've been healthy and athletic at 5'7 230-240 pounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 25 years old and two years ago I was put on medication that made me gain almost a hundred pounds. I've been trying everything to lose the weight, and a year ago I got rid of my car and opted for a bike, and have been riding a minimum of 2 miles a day since. I've still been unable to lose the weight, but that's not the issue I'm discussing right now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I began with what I believe to be a super old, possibly 1950's Schwinn Beach Cruiser, only one gear, back pedal brakes. The tires were rotted, so I used the cheapest ones I could find, CST white wall 26 x 2.125. The tubes were also CST. I began getting flats often immediately. Mostly the back tire, sometimes the front... But like once a month minimum. I now weigh 305-324 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually I got a new Electra Beach Cruiser, same style bike but very large and sturdy, which I love for my weight, only the tires were rotted and I just opted to stay with the Schwinn for a while. But I did find a thorn resistant tube someone had cut to line the back tire. I put that in the back tire of my Schwinn, and actually went a couple months with out a flat. I think I got one in like 2 months, which was a big difference, and I was stoked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the Schwinn's rims had broken spokes from the get go, and eventually the back rim got too warped to ride. I honestly didn't like riding the Electra as much... It was like it was easier to pedal but didn't go any where, thus making it harder to pedal. But, now I had no choice, so I put my CST tires and CST tubes on the Electra's rims  including the thorn proof tube liner in the back tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within a couple days, I got a flat. That was two months ago, and ever since I've been getting at least two flats a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, I forgot to mention, someone had stabbed my back CST tire about 6 months ago  so I put a boot (a piece of another tire to cover it). The last 3 times I got a flat, I could feel the air coming out of the stab hole, and the tubes puncture would be on the side where the stab hole was, even though the boot was in place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So about a week and a half ago I bought a new CST 26 x 2.125 tire. I cut up the old one with the stab hole in it, thoroughly inspected it for thorns, and lined the new tire while it, and put a new tube in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The NEXT DAY I had a flat!!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, again I got a new tube (I purchase a new tube every time because I can never get patches to hold) I checked to see if there were any sharp spokes, which there wasn't and the rim liner was still intact. I did another thorough inspection of the inside tire and found the tiniest thorn in it. However, the puncture hole on the tube was on the side, so it didn't seem like that caused it, but any way, I put it all back together, this was last weekend, and I've gotten TWO FLATS since then! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every flat is a very slow leak. Mist are on the side of the tube, but they don't appear to be &quot;snake bite&quot; flats as there is always only one hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've eliminated every possibility that I know of. There are two tires protecting the tube. I've searched for hidden thorns, and the rim has a liner to protect the tube from sharp spokes. The only thing I can think of is that I simply weigh too much. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like a super hard tire. They say they take 65 psi, but I've had them pop at 55-60, so I keep them at 45psi, 50 if I can get away with it, and sometimes 35-40 if I'm using my little hand pump, because its hard to go past that, just getting it to 35 takes 300 pumps lol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often carry 3 to 4, gallons of water home with me as well, as we have to buy our drinking water at the store... So that's almost every day. I also live in a very old neighborhood where some streets are very bumpy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any way, now that I've given you the back story, my questions are as follows: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Could the liner I'm using (an old tire with the side walls cut off) be causing the flats? I did this under my LBS's (loca bike shop's) instruction, but I immediately was concerned about the rough edges I created by cutting off the sidewalls. They insisted it was fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. I am aware the rim has a weight limit, and I am aware I should get a new one built, but as far as flats go and the tube itself, does the tube have a &quot;weight limit&quot;? And if so, would buying a higher quality tube be beneficial? Or &quot;knobbier&quot; tires? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C. I am also looking into the solid inner tubes with no air. They are surprisingly in expensive. Couple questions concerning these: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;will they ride as if I have a &quot;rock hard&quot; tire, or as if I'm riding on 65psi? (Because the less pressure in the tire the more uncomfortable the ride) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it's always my back tire that goes flat. I have an EXTREMELY low budget, I get paid about 50$ a week, (I fix guitars at a local mom and pop guitar shop) so I will probably only be able to afford one solid &quot;no - air&quot; tire at first. Can I ride with one solid tire, one air? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will the fact that I weight more have any affect on how the solid inner tubes ride?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D. I see people are mentioning &quot;snake bite&quot; flats quite a bit... But again, every time I get a flat and inspect the tube, it's only one tiny hole, and it's a very slow leak. Could this still be a &quot;pinch flat&quot; from not inflating the tube enough and my weight? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? If you honestly think it's my weight, I won't get offended, but if it is, is there anything I can do about it? (Other than lose weight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ps. In addition to the questions I added, I am going to try to add links to pictures of my bike, wheel, and liner I'm using later today, and again I weighed myself today, I am 319 pounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I originally put the wrong tire size. It's 26 x 2.125! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20981" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T10:43:13.830" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T10:43:13.830" Title="Mystery flat keeps happening 3-5 times a week. Do I weigh too much for my tires?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;weight&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32593" CreationDate="2015-08-09T21:12:54.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I typed this whole answer and then decided to cut to the chase, which I doing here. IF you do not have a tiny splinter hidden in the tire I think you are pinching the tube between the tire and the rim during installation. This explains the flats at 50-60 lbs.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losing weight is not the problem. It might be part of the problem - that is to say that someone who weighs 90 lbs and rides your bike might not get flats - but there is something going on here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are inspecting the inside of the tire, which is important. If you are thorough it eliminates one potential cause. However, I have had many holes caused by tiny slivers of metal which are embedded on the inside of the tire like a splinter. These slivers will not make a new tube go flat in the garage (in fact they cannot be felt with the fingers with the tire right-side-out); they only kick in once I am riding the bike. You might have something like this. I find them by turning the tire inside out and running my finger along it, pushing hard. You can see how this ends up - if I find the cause I get a splinter! Something might be puncturing your tire that is invisible during tire changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One tip - you might do this already - when you install your tube align the valve stem with the printing on the tire. When you get a flat and remove the tire and tube you can find the hole then lay the tube on the tire to find the location on the tire of the hole in the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I cut up the old one with the stab hole in it,... and lined the new tire while it, and put a new tube in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;i keep them at 45psi,50 if i can get away with it, and sometimes 35-40&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is throwing me off. First - using an old tire to line a new tire. This works in the &quot;boot&quot; situation that you mentioned but should not be generally used. Tubes are sensitive to small variations - pinches, folds, stretches - which weaken the rubber and lead to a hole. &lt;strong&gt;You need to make absolutely sure that you are not pinching the tube in the wire bead when mounting the tire.*&lt;/strong&gt; You should totally be able to run the tires at the recommended pressure and you should run them at the recommended pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*edit - it occurs to me that you might need help with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T21:12:54.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32597" CreationDate="2015-08-09T21:34:04.960" Score="1" ViewCount="1113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have rim brakes on my mountain bike that's outfitted for urban duty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two weeks ago, I noticed that my rear brakes were weaker and louder than normal. I found that, although my pads still indicated 1/16&quot; of wear left, the metal &quot;internal&quot; part of the brake had become exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I immediately replaced the pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I installed the new pads, about every 40-50 miles I'll notice my brakes suddenly get noisy and weak. I'll get off my bike, and find a little metal chunk in one of my brake pads. After I dig it out, my brakes behave normally again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that it's not from junk on the road. This never happens when I'm riding my other BSOs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rim looks and feels (to my finger) fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like my rim is shedding metal bits. Is this the case? And, if so, what can I do to stop it? I've tried wiping my rim with a rag, but it hasn't made a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I forgot to add that this is happening with both rims, not just the rear one that had the worn pad incident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T23:08:55.383" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T02:02:40.227" Title="Rim seems to be shedding metal chunks" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32589" CreationDate="2015-08-09T21:36:38.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike you seeks is probably not available off-the-shelf new from a bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to find the bike you like with a coaster brake. Make sure that a) the rear rim is &quot;hand-brake&quot; compatible (chances are it will be rim brake compatible I have never seen a coaster brake hub with disc mounts!) and b) the frame and fork have mounts/posts for brakes (although you can also change the fork!). Have a shop add hand-brake (add a rear for sure and a front if you need one) which will likely be a V brake or cantilever brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could go the other direction and find the bike you like with the hand brakes you seek and change the rear wheel to one with a coaster brake. Of course this wheel needs to be compatible with the hand brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you explain what you want to a bike shop they will guide you through the above steps. If you are trying to do this without a shop's intervention then I suggest posting some models of bikes with coaster brakes and members of the Stack will tell you if they are hand brake compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I think Sheldon Brown built a bike with a bunch of different brakes on it. I will look for it and post here if I find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2: The better answer includes a primer on the different kinds of hand brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T21:36:38.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32595" CreationDate="2015-08-09T23:45:51.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've used the brake pads up to the point where the metal is exposed, you've used them &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; too long and possibly caused some rim damage. There are wear indicator grooves on brake pads -- when they're gone, put on new pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for having metal embedded in the brake pads, I defer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/18808/why-are-there-metal-shavings-in-my-brake-pads&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. You might want to try switching pads (Promax stuff is generally low quality -- try Kool Stop), and checking the wear indicators on the rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T23:45:51.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32593" CreationDate="2015-08-10T01:02:46.233" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@andy256 &#xA;First let me say, this is my first time using this site so im still trying to figure things out, lol....still not sure if I am using this correctly. But thanks for editing my comment. Its a lot harder to make sure you capitalize every &quot;I&quot; and add the correct punctuaction and whatnot on a phone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@jqning Thank you for your answer! However i am unclear on one thing, so i am going to try to better explain this: when i originally started getting flats, the man i go to fix my bike told me to make my own liner between the tube and the tire by cutting the side walls off an old tire. So, when I bought the new tire, I cut the sidewalls off the old one with a razor, and placed it inside the new one, then put the tube in it. After cutting the sidewalls off, the edges did feel rough.... So i asked the guy who owns the shop I go to about it and he said thats fine, that wont bother the tube...now im wondering if thats not fine, and that could maybe be the cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20981" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T01:02:46.233" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32593" CreationDate="2015-08-10T01:22:41.770" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, you are one impressively persistent woman!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, of course weight is a &lt;em&gt;factor&lt;/em&gt;. You just need equipment that will deal with it. In addition to the points made by &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/32594/8273&quot;&gt;jqning&lt;/a&gt;, I'm thinking that several things can help you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Larger and better tires would help.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I checked out the Electra website, but couldn't be sure which bike you have. Some do have bigger tires than you describe, so talk to your local bike shop (LBS) about this. Also, spending more on the tires can get you &lt;em&gt;puncture proof&lt;/em&gt; tires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since you report difficulty with getting patches to hold, I wonder if you're roughening the area with sandpaper or a little rasp, putting the glue on and letting it dry almost completely, before putting the patch over the hole? After that, put some weight on it while it bonds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider getting new wheels built for the old Schwinn. Again, discuss this with your LBS. Get ones with the most spokes they can build, for maximum strength, and the widest rims that will fit on the bike (so that you can run the widest tires).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I think you should keep more pressure in the tires, at least to the minimum pressure written on the sidewalls. A floor pump would help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your LBS can't or won't help, find another that will, and build a relationship with them. You're pushing your equipment to it's limits, so you can expect to visit them regularly. Discuss the overall problem with them and get their advice also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for the weight loss, I suggest two things. Don't eat before you ride, and gradually increase the distances you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T01:22:41.770" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32595" CreationDate="2015-08-10T02:02:40.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without seeing the rim it's hard to tell exactly what is going on but I suspect you are in a loop where your rim surface got some rough spots which stuck to the brake pads which ground or pulled up some rough spots... and repeat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the brake pad change didn't work I'd suggest one of two courses of action. Or both courses but then you start losing track of the variables. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1 try different brake pads. The Koolstop salmon pads have a great reputation. Throw them on and see if they work. They are made of pretty hard material and they may accomplish what I outline below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2 is work on your rims and once worked on use new brake pads on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The work you need to do can be done with those green Scotch brand scrubby pads. You are going to use these to &quot;machine&quot; your sidewalls. Vigorous scrubbing around the circumference will smooth things out and remove trouble spots. You can go so far as to stuff the scrubby between the brake pad and sidewall and then ride 50 ft or so. Problem with that technique is that you only abrade the width of the brake pad so you miss some spots on the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people wet sand the sidewall with 220 or higher sandpaper. I would only do this if the scrubby doesn't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The danger is manually machining the sidewalls is that you remove material. Remove enough material and the rim fails. Sometimes in spectacular fashion. Of course, grinding away with metal chunked brake pads also removes material so pick your poison!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T02:02:40.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7420" CreationDate="2015-08-10T04:37:47.993" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the exact same problem and it was due to broken teeth on one of the chain rings.  Inspect your chain rings and look for worn or frankly broken cogs.  Replace the chain ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20987" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T04:37:47.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32593" CreationDate="2015-08-10T07:02:42.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure weight is the main issue. There are several questions on this site from people weighing more than you, and the general advice seems to be that it should be fine. Sure, more weight puts bike under more stress, but bikes are generally fairly sturdy. But make sure that there are no missing spokes, and check regularly if there are cracks in the rim or the wheel buckles; if so, perhaps replace it with a sturdier mountain bike wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't quite understand your liner and that might well be the main issue. I would just get a good, puncture-proof tire, and a new tube, and not use anything else. My experience: I used a proper kevlar tire liner for a while, but had many punctures too. It is very difficult to align the liner properly inside the tire, and it can move and pinch the tire. After several punctures I just took it out, got good new tires, and that's it. I don't understand the way you make your own liner out of old tires, but this is really difficult to do properly and you may well create sharp edges or pinch points that damage the tube. With a good tyre, you don't need another liner between tire and tube at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that you already checked for damages in the rim or spokes that stick out, and make sure the rim tape (the plastic that goes around the rim over the spoke nipples) is in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the tire well inflated near the maximum (the number is printed on the sidewall). If it's underinflated, the tube can move or get pinched when you go over a kerb for example, and that will also lead to damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, observe carefully where and how you ride. Perhaps there are locations where you go over a kerb or road damage, and if you take that too fast, it can damage your wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastEditorUserId="18723" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T08:17:36.507" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T08:17:36.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24331" CreationDate="2015-08-10T08:58:42.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm way late to this party, but in case anyone else wanders in, I'll say - based on countless postings of similar Ti-frame problems - that this and similar joined areas are common locations to have a crack on a titanium frame. Gary E (above) already talked about the need to have an inert gas atmosphere when welding titanium or you will find that the titanium becomes brittle in the area that was heated by the welding process. There is one other thing. Welding sets up thermal stresses also, and unrelieved residual stresses further compromise the embrittled titanium. This can be relieved to some extent by shot-peening (not media-blasting) the work, or by heat-treating it in an inert gas atmosphere. Finally, I would have no problem trusting a stress crack that had been repaired by welding, as long as I were certain that the weld was done by an expert. Such a repair will restore ductility to the surrounding metal and result in a strong and dependable component. Success rests entirely on the skill and professionalism of the welder, obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20990" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T08:58:42.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32536" CreationDate="2015-08-10T13:11:41.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;1. Motion (not intention)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch intensely the motion of a suspect vehicle, and consider it over anything else you think it's driver might do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I see a vehicle threatening to cross my path, where time permits I'll seek to make eye-contact with the driver as outlined below, but penultimately the only thing to trust is it's actual movement...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The front wheels don't lie&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many things are revealed by watching the rotation of the front wheels of a vehicle.  In particular you can tell by their motion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are they patient (brakes engaged-locked and zero motion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are they anxious to attack (rocking slightly-back and forth, riding the clutch or brakes off)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are they keen to attack (rolling forward)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2. Eye contact&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eye contact can be crucial to getting drivers to mentally elevate you from being just another traffic obstacle to an actual human-being trying to get somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eye contact confirms to you that the driver has seen you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eye contact establishes a connection: &lt;strong&gt;you see me and we both know that you have seen me&lt;/strong&gt;.  If they are such a terrible person as to deny this established fact later then hopefully you'll see that in their eyes in that moment, and it will be the warning you need to survive the attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are not making eye contact with the drivers, then start doing so.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are wearing sunglasses replace them with clear/yellow/ones that show your eyes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At night, use a big light on your helmet, and shine it directly into the face of any driver threatening to turn across your path&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is usually enough light for eye contact to still be effective at night, but the big bright light is very effective: no-one starts moving forward when they are being blinded by 800 lumens worth of 'get-that-effin-light-out-of-my-eyes'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Getting back to the three scenarios the OP describes:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;doesn't quite make sense to me; if you're in front and they're willing to run you up the rear then, for want of a better option, you have to play chicken: if they're aggressive enough to blatantly run you down, then welcome to Australia in the 2010s.  Sadly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smh.com.au/nsw/sydney-driver-thomas-kerr-who-struck-seven-cyclists-at-eastlakes-may-withdraw-guilty-pleas-court-hears-20150312-141ybj.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;it has happened&lt;/a&gt;, happily less often than the question has been presented.  If it does happen and you are subsequently conscious (1) get a witness, and (2) be direct, unequivocal, and unshakeable... &quot;I was run down from behind!&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;again not clear if the driver is turning right from your right, or from your left:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from your right: shine that big-arse light right in their eyes.  It may not be good driver-cyclist relationship etiquette, but it has certainly worked for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from your left: motion, eyes, big bright light: &quot;i'm here, don't cross me&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;driver may have genuinely not &quot;seen&quot; you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magicians make their money on this: normal brains filter out &quot;noise&quot; and focus on the the &quot;important&quot; stuff.  Cars are important, cyclists are noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hang back more than 20m so you are not 'part of' the noise behind that car in front. Or get right up the arse of that car in front—provided they don't stop suddenly—so that the brain of that threat just blends the two of you together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6201" LastEditorUserId="6201" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T12:30:35.577" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T12:30:35.577" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32593" CreationDate="2015-08-10T13:19:55.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They say they take 65 psi, but I've had them pop at 55-60, so I keep them at 45psi, 50 if I can get away with it, and sometimes 35-40 if I'm using my little hand pump&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, there's your problem. 40 PSI is just not enough pressure for a 1.25&quot; tire, especially if it's carrying a lot of weight. You're probably getting pinch flats from hitting potholes and so on (that's when the tire gets pinched between the rim and the road surface). Get some wider tires, and blow them up to the recommended pressure. It helps if you get a floor pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T13:19:55.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T14:25:28.143" Score="5" ViewCount="1384" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My old good CrMo friend got hit by a car and the blow was heavy enough to affect the whole frame. Now the car driver is expected to pay back the expenses but I am not sure how to estimate the price of such an old frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a road bike frame, order-made in Japan somewhere in nineties and all I know is its serial number. Can take pictures of some particular parts if it helps for the estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the signs of high-end or a low-end frame, so that I know how much to ask?  Where to look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQKJm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FQKJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://janis.tokyo/bike/IMG_0796.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEg5n.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kEg5n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://janis.tokyo/bike/IMG_0797.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tyhsn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tyhsn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://janis.tokyo/bike/IMG_0798.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilQSU.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilQSU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://janis.tokyo/bike/IMG_0799.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1rKMi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1rKMi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://janis.tokyo/bike/IMG_0800.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KITvl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KITvl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://janis.tokyo/bike/IMG_0801.JPG&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T00:45:52.973" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T19:30:15.683" Title="How to estimate price of an old CrMo frame?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32593" CreationDate="2015-08-10T14:38:13.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I weight around 300 lbs, ride bicycle daily 10-20km, and did not have flat for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you need decent tires, and you have to inflate them properly. Search the web for the puncture resistant tires, and choose one that has best reputation. They cost much more than bargain tires, but when you factor in how much it cost to change inner tubes every few days and frustration associated with it, they are an bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, every tire has to be properly inflated, and the proper pressure is often printed on the tire. I am inflating my Marathon Plus to maximum recommended 6.0 bars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be good to check your rim as well, maybe there are some small metal splinters flying around them and causing the flats. Also check you rim tape, and if all spokes are flat and not piercing towards the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep up, cycling will be fun once you get over these initial obstacles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T14:38:13.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32667" CreationDate="2015-08-10T14:59:55.150" Score="6" ViewCount="966" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between regular chamois cream and women specific chamois cream?  If my partner also rides, are there disadvantages to both male and female users sharing the women specific type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T13:09:10.310" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T13:09:10.310" Title="What's different in women's specific chamois cream?" Tags="&lt;women-specific&gt;&lt;chamois-creme&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8090" CreationDate="2015-08-10T15:00:10.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a PVC tube of the same inside diameter as the outer diameter of my seat tube.&#xA;I positioned the saddle at the right height and I measured the length between the seat and frame tube in which the seat tube engages.&#xA;I sawn PVC tube to this length.&#xA;I just have to engage the seat tube in the PVC tube and the frame tube . The PVC tube prevents the seat tube to slip more than the length of the PVC pipe .&#xA;This works for me now.&#xA;This works for me now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20991" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T15:00:10.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32630" CreationDate="2015-08-10T15:01:57.033" Score="6" ViewCount="12393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never been able to remove the pads from my Avid BB7 brakes. It seems to take too much force to get them out, I figure I missed a step somewhere, or I'm doing something wrong. I can't figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official instructions say &quot;Turn both adjuster knobs all the way out (counter-clockwise), then squeeze the pad tabs together and pull both pads and pad spring clip straight out of the caliper.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the simplest thing in the world to do, but the pads (and the spring clip) do not come out. I don't understand what I'm doing wrong. Is there a secret to this? How much force is it supposed to take? Anyone have any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20494" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T21:25:04.727" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T01:06:15.687" Title="How do I get the pads out of my Avid BB7 disc brakes?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32611" CreationDate="2015-08-10T17:12:26.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been pulling them out a lot lately. They do come out easily, but only if you have the adjusters all the way withdrawn on both sides. The catch is that the adjusters (at least the ones I'm working with) can start seeming tight before they are backed out all of the way. So backing them off can be a bit of a judgment call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I was doing the &quot;holiday overhaul&quot; on my partner's bike and I was also sorting out why the brakes were hanging up a bit (corroded cable) and noticed another thing that can make the pads harder to get out than they ought to be – the actuator arm wasn't releasing all the way because the cable was a bit too tight, so I was missing maybe 5 or 6 mm of travel when the brakes were released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got them all the way backed off and the wheel removed, pinching the tabs together and centering the pads in the caliper opening should let them come out fairly easily. Sometimes, I find that it helps to hold the pads all the way to one side and slide the one towards the center out a bit and then reverse the process. There is a pin in the adjuster that secures that pads and if you don't clear that they will hang up. Often when the pin hangs up you naturally pull out the other pad a bit. Once one pad is past the pin, pushing it towards the side and pulling the other one should be enough to get the whole assembly out. They come out with very little force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing that will stop you from pulling the pads out one at a time, just move one towards the center and pull it out, then do the same with the other one. If you do this, you're likely to leave the spring behind, but it is relatively easy to coax out with a pair of tweezers or a pointy object or even a blast of air from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2018-01-08T01:06:15.687" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T01:06:15.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32607" CreationDate="2015-08-10T17:46:19.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Photos of the overall frame and its details (photos of the dropouts, the lugs, the fork crown, and any decals would be especially helpful) along with any information you have on the components on the frame would help us give you an idea of the quality of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a guide you might find these posts, on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/Site%20Contents/Bicycle_Basics/Bicycle_Determining_Quality/Determining_Quality_Introduction_1_Page.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bicycle quality&lt;/a&gt;, helpful. The author is looking specifically at vintage bicycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how liability law works in your part of the world, Japan I assume, but in the US it would be reasonable to expect the driver to restore your bike to its condition before the accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T17:46:19.610" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32635" CreationDate="2015-08-10T18:04:46.400" Score="0" ViewCount="1559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the G-Spring and G-Spring carrier on my 9 speed Chorus Ergopower.&#xA;Now it is shifting better and the clicks are sharper, but I can't adjust the derailleur to shift good on all gears good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRYEn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRYEn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the blue cogs the chain grinds and jumps on the bigger cogs. On the red cogs the chain needs extra shifting force after the click to jump on the bigger cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I make the tension of the cable higher or lower the chain will not work with the bigger or smaller cogs at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea what part could be worn out and should be replaced? I think the Ergopower shifter are causing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The derailleur hanger seems to be straight. Changing the position with the screw on the derailleur couldn't fix the bad shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lH2Ni.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lH2Ni.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6lFT6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6lFT6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nIJu6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nIJu6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w0MLY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w0MLY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10748" LastEditorUserId="10748" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T20:06:35.283" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T12:29:37.857" Title="Campagnolo Ergopower inaccurate shifting on high and low cogs" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T18:09:10.727" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you can figure out from a quick google search, this bike almost does not exist. Finding info for this bike has been near impossible. If you can direct me to any info about which hanger I need to replace my broken rear derailleur hanger, that would be awesome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20995" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T22:54:43.437" Title="Trying to find Derailleur hanger for Triace A310" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32593" CreationDate="2015-08-10T18:49:54.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow this is the flat tire question that just keeps on rolling  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In review:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installed a cheap 26 X 1.25&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Problems from day one    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Patched tire with tire and even more problems exactly where the tire&#xA;patch was&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Installed another cheap 26 X 1.25 and put in preemptive complete&#xA;tire patch using the last 1.25 and nothing but problems  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stop using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap tires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1.25 width&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is relatively narrow.  A larger tire will handle load better. &#xA;That bike will take a 2.25.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire patches&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tire patches are temporary. They abrade the tube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get / Do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality puncture resistant 2.25 tire &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Couple quality tubes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No liner or tire patch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run at max recommenced pressure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tubes are costing money. A quality puncture resistant 2.25 tire will cost you less in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T18:49:54.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32615" CreationDate="2015-08-10T18:51:28.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's because Triace is a BSO (Walmart bike). I'm surprised one would have a replacable derailleur hanger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does have a removable derailleur hanger, you're likely going to have try a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wheelsmfg.com/derailleur-hangers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;generic derailleur hanger&lt;/a&gt; (disclaimer: no affiliation, never bought from them) or if it had quick release (unlikely), something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/universal_derailleur_hanger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Problem Solvers' Universal Derailleur Hanger&lt;/a&gt;. If you post a picture of the broken derailleur hanger, someone may be able to match it to a good generic (or you can do that yourself). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hanger is built into the frame and is just bent, you can use a crescent wrench to adjust it. If its built into the frame and broken off, time for a new frame (or if you're ambitious, you might be able to weld a new one on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T18:51:28.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32607" CreationDate="2015-08-10T18:59:12.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go with the replacement cost of the frame. Find some equivalent CrMo framesets and look at prices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8828" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T18:59:12.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32607" CreationDate="2015-08-10T19:03:48.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is decal of the manufacturer, you might be lucky to find the man who made it, and with serial number you might ask him original price, and how much he would charge for repair or substitute frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T19:03:48.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T20:32:10.157" Score="0" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get into cycling. I have a Forme Longcliffe 3.0 2013 and shoes and cleats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to get quicker and build my endurance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do 6 miles (10 km) in 22:51 and average 15.4 mph (26 kph). I have realised my tyres where under pressure so I am experimenting with 120psi what speed difference should I expect previous psi 65. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any training advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21001" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T02:30:38.080" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T17:37:13.100" Title="Training Advice for Road Cycling" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32615" CreationDate="2015-08-10T20:35:43.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the Triace A310 is an entry level bike I wouldn't put it in the same class as a Walmart  BSO (bicycle shaped object). It doesn't appear to be a bike brand common to the U.S. Your best bet would be to remove the hanger and take it to your local bike shop. Most shops have a wall chart that has full size photos of the 50-60 most common types. You match yours' to the example and they can order you a #46 hanger or what ever number is appropriate. If it is one of the less common type that they don't stock you may want to order two so you have a spare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T22:53:16.117" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T22:53:16.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T20:38:42.550" Score="1" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anybody help me identify this bike? It's a Claud Butler with Reynolds 531 steel - that's all I know. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7MdH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7MdH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21000" LastEditorUserId="9215" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T07:51:34.803" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T16:18:21.460" Title="What bike have I bought?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32620" CreationDate="2015-08-10T20:46:15.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you already have a decent pace for somebody starting out.  Upping the tire pressure is a good idea, but make sure to not go too far beyond what is recommended on the sidewall of the tire. 120 psi might be a bit too high.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to get quicker and build your endurance you should ride more.  You can do things like intervals to try and increase the effectiveness of your training, but simply just putting more miles on the bike should get you pretty far. I would recommend going for longer rides, even if you have to slow your pace to be able to complete the ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for cycling groups in your area and get involved. Having people to ride with helps you to push harder and gives you more motivation to get out and ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T20:46:15.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32620" CreationDate="2015-08-10T21:13:56.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;120 psi (8.3bar) is good, just make sure to check it every second day or so. Road tires lose pressure fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for training: Bicycling is mostly a matter of kilometers (or hours) per week at some intensity. Of course proper regeneration, good nutrition (enough protein etc.) and structured training with intervals, endurance training etc. etc. help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For starters just try to get your weekly mileage up and try to ride at least every second day or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also make sure your seating position is good (especially saddle height) to avoid problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T21:13:56.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32620" CreationDate="2015-08-10T22:58:18.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goals&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without them, you don't know where you're going, and don't know when you got there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So set some goals. For example, a 100 km (60 mi) ride by the end of the year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Kibbee said, find others to ride with. Ride where you see others ride, stop where they stop, and chat. Or find a local club. Be prepared to move on if the people or club are not meeting your current needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good to ride with two kinds of riders - ones like you, for friendly competition, and more experienced or faster, to stretch and teach you. And then when you're experienced, ride with less experienced people to pass it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll add more later ... going for a ride now ... and I'm back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need to tell us more for us to give detailed advice. We can guess that &quot;Stu&quot; is a guy, and maybe Gen-Y. Or not. We can guess that by training you intend to get seriously into cycling. But we don't know until you tell us. So here is some general advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I already mentioned goals.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Have a goal for every ride&lt;/em&gt;. I just went on a social Coffee ride - 63 kms to have coffee with friends, at a very relaxed pace. Other rides are training rides, where I might do intervals at a given speed for a given distance, then slow down for a period to recover, and then repeat. Or climb a specific hill some number of times. Some people unkindly call any ride without a goal as junk kilometers or junk miles. See the questions tagged &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/training&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;training&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;training&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/performance&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;performance&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;performance&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn good technique early.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are going to do Triathlons then join a Tri club and follow their advice, because Tri riding is quite different to ordinary road cycling.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For road cycling, get a bike computer that shows you your &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/cadence&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;cadence&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;cadence&lt;/a&gt;. If you don't already pedal at 90 rpm, then aim for that. Then 100 rpm. Pedaling too slowly causes knee and back problems.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Learn to use your ankles, to help you drive the pedals all the way around the stroke.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Keep your knees in; they should almost touch the top tube on each stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you have a good &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/riding-position&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;riding-position&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;riding-position&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Having a professional bike fitting can boost your performance and save you lots of problems later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn some basic &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/skills&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;skills&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;skills&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/technique&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;technique&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;technique&lt;/a&gt;s.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you join group rides, be aware that there is &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/etiquette&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;etiquette&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;etiquette&lt;/a&gt; for groups involved.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increasing your endurance.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Generally, we can increase the distances we ride by about 10% per week. If you work hard on each ride then give your body a day off to recover before the next ride. As you increase the distance, try to maintain your pace. Remember to warm up and cool down properly, and do longer and shorter rides for variation. And check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20629/what-is-a-recovery-ride&quot;&gt;What is a recovery ride?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increasing your speed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This means increasing your power output. You can just ride faster, or climb hills, but the most common way of increasing power is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interval_training#Effectiveness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;interval training&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Measure what you do.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want something to change then measure it. Smartphone apps are one easy way. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/10733/is-there-an-easy-to-use-app-for-tracking-my-cycling-performance-ios-or-android/10735&quot;&gt;Is there an easy to use app for tracking my cycling performance? (iOS or Android)&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31361/what-is-the-best-way-to-track-you-mileage-routes-and-calories-burned/31362&quot;&gt;What is the best way to track your mileage, routes and calories burned?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Many people use a &lt;a href=&quot;https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/cIntoSports-cCycling-p1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Garmin&lt;/a&gt; device.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you get serious then learn about &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=vo2+max&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;VO&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; max&lt;/a&gt; and diet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Join a club.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or more than one. Different clubs can focus on different things, so find one or more that suit you and your goals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T04:40:14.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32627" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T22:59:08.273" Score="10" ViewCount="1456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have owned a Computrainer stationary trainer for 20 years and recently had the flywheel shatter, sending shrapnel through the walls and ceiling of my basement, as well as into my hamstring.  Should flywheels on stationary trainers be replaced on a regular basis to avoid fatigue-induced failures?  How often should a flywheel be replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaPf4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FaPf4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Broken flywheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nk8Dn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nk8Dn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plywood shattered by flywheel shrapnel&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19963" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T14:40:44.460" Title="Should flywheels on stationary trainers be replaced periodically to avoid catastrophic failures caused by fatigue?" Tags="&lt;trainer&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30065" CreationDate="2015-08-11T02:59:18.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had the same baffling issue lately, and I still don't have a positive identification of the cause for the puncture: I just got the second puncture on the &lt;em&gt;inside&lt;/em&gt; (toward the spokes) of the tube.  I have adhesive-backed cloth rim tape, so I'm sure that's not moving; I installed the tube by hand, and I'm certain it wasn't kinked or nicked by a screw-driver, etc.  There was absolutely nothing in the tread or in the inside of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two factors were common on both days I experience this kind of flat.  I had just topped up the air pressure to 90 psi, and the day was &lt;em&gt;hot&lt;/em&gt; (I live in Texas).  Today, I rode 17 miles to work on the tire in the morning with no problem.  Less than a quarter mile into the ride home in the afternoon, the tire went flat.  It was similar the last time, too.  I have to assume that getting out on very hot pavement (the asphalt was soft and melting in places) caused the tire pressure to increase.  I'm not sure of the physics, but it's possible that that this would cause the tube to develop a hole in that location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the solution in my case is to keep the tires inflated to a lower pressure (as measured cold by the tire gauge) when it's this hot out because the pavement is going to heat them up and increase the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6197" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T02:59:18.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32611" CreationDate="2015-08-11T03:03:23.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have struggled with this both times I changed the pads on my brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to do it by squeezing the clip ends together with one hand and using a needle-nosed plier to reach through the opening in the body of the brake caliper with the other.  You can grab onto the back part of the spring between the pads with the plier to help to push it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that wiggling, up and down, back and forth, and side to side eventually got the clip clear of the retaining tabs and it popped right out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6197" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2018-01-08T01:00:48.153" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T01:00:48.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T03:56:29.333" Score="0" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to exchange a triple Ultegra crankset on one road bicycle to another bicycle with a double Ultegra crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21005" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T05:44:17.333" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T00:38:56.073" Title="Replace a double ultegra crankset for a triple ultegra crankset. Is that possible?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32631" CreationDate="2015-08-11T04:11:09.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people go the other way. Many new bikes now only come with double chain rings. And compact crank sets give almost the same gear range as triples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it should be possible. The distance the front derailleur travels is about the same. You may need to adjust your limit screws though. And of course you need to change the front shifter to a 3 speed version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T04:11:09.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T06:35:38.240" Score="1" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is attacking downhills with coaster brakes where the sport of downhill mountain biking originated? Or did mountain biking and klunking grow up side by side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19743" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T22:37:39.307" Title="Is klunking the father of mountain biking?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;coaster&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32633" CreationDate="2015-08-11T07:07:17.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hard to be definitive. But I thought it started with Gary Fisher and others on cruiser bikes with coaster brakes &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Fisher&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Fisher&lt;/a&gt;, the Repack Races. He went on to develop the first mountain bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T07:07:17.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32614" CreationDate="2015-08-11T12:29:37.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that you have the cable incorrectly routed under the pinch bolt / washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to route the cable down the same &quot;side&quot; of the pinch bolt, but the washer needs to turn 90 degrees clockwise, so that one &quot;claw&quot; sits in the hole in the derailleur body, one &quot;claw&quot; sits outside the derailleur body next to the free end of the cable and the cable itself should be trapped, in a straight line, under the small extended flange on the washer that has a groove cut in it, for that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need to use a new cable as the way you have it clamped, it's forced a &quot;kink&quot; into it which will probably not straighten out fully and so will always affect the cable tension, slightly, so giving you inaccurate shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13182" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T12:29:37.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32607" CreationDate="2015-08-11T17:37:46.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this sort of negotiation, typically you end up meeting somewhere in the middle. You provide a number, the other side provides a lower number, and the actual number is somewhere between those two numbers (possibly close to what the other side offered initially). Even if the number you supply is accurate and well-supported, I'd wager they will offer less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was in your shoes, I would start with the cost for a similar bicycle today. Call the shop back and ask for a price, and spec the bike with a similar level of modern components. If it was Ultegra, ask for Ultegra. Clearly this is just a starting point; they will certainly not pay this amount. I would also look for roughly equivalent mass-produced bicycles that could serve as a back-up. Do your homework, and with any luck you can find some comparable bicycles from around that time which have been sold or are for sale (eBay, or some equivalents).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here in the States, one Web site that might be of interest in a situation like this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/&quot;&gt;BikePedia&lt;/a&gt;; one could use a site like that to collect some data points of the costs of comparable bicycles. Since your bicycle was not brand new, I wouldn't expect to get anywhere close to the true replacement cost, but don't help the other side by low-balling the value of what you've lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T17:37:46.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32593" CreationDate="2015-08-11T18:28:01.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I finally figured out my issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been getting a ton of flats, all mainly in the back tire, since I started riding almost a year ago. For that year I've been going to the same bike shop, and buying the same CST tubes. Again, they say they can take 65 psi, but they pop at 55psi, so I've always kept them at 35- 50 depending what pump I'm using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, someone stabbed my back tire. Up until it was stabbed, I got one to two flats a month. Once it was stabbed, it caused even more flats (one a week) until I got a new tire a week ago. Under instruction of my LBS, I cut the sidewalls off the stabbed tire, and used that to line the new one a week ago, and since then I've gotten 4 flats- 4 flats in one week!  Each time I've been buying a new CST tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I had a flat. I pulled the tube out and inspected it. There were no thorns, and it was NOT a &quot;snake bite&quot; hole. It was just one small hole toward the side, and you could see a long line or &quot;streak&quot; that looked like the tire I used to line the new one had been rubbing the tube. The edges are pretty rough, so I deduced THAT is what has now been  causing my flats and took it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend brought me a new type of tube; &quot;q tube&quot; and a bottle of &quot;flat attack&quot; slime which comes highly recommended and in reviews is said to be far better than regular slime. We slimed the new tube, and pumped it up to a FULL 65 psi, and put it on leaving out the tire liner, no liner this time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, the front tire was slightly low. The front tire still had a CST tube in it. We put the rest of the &quot;flat attack&quot; in the front, and fully pumped it up to 65 psi, even though its been my experience it pops at 55 psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then she left, and I rode to 711... And my bike felt better than EVER fully pumped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... Half way here.... The FRONT tire popped!  Completelley popped, scared the heck outta me, haha. So now, I'm sitting at 711 getting ready for a long walk back in the heat.... And based on our common factors and variables, I THINK I finally solved the issue. Firstly, the fact that the &quot;q tube&quot; is holding the maximum air (65 psi) and the CST tube YET AGAIN popped with 65 psi in it shows an obvious quality difference, or perhaps an old tube. So, obviously since I've only been using CST tubes, that is a major factor, since I can't pump them up all the way they are more susceptible to thorns and punctures, and the quality in general, plus my weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have concluded the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;weight is a factor, but not the issue. Some one my size needs quality tubes and tires, and the tires need to be filled to the MAXIMUM, because putting so much weight on them really &quot;puts them to the test&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the fact that my tubes would pop at the maximum psi means I need higher quality tubes for my size. Extra weight on the tire works the tube and tire to the max, and means it needs to be able to hold more air.... Cheap tubes can not hold enough air for someone of my weight. Cheap tubes (what I've been using, and I don't mean price but quality) are more susceptible to punctures, and again, will not hold the maximum PSI needed, especially for a heavy person.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;at my size, things rub, poke, and puncture the tube easier, meaning a roughly cut old tire for a line is not a good idea! &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;tire pressure is very important. I should only use my hand pump in emergency situations, and other wise use a floor pumo, and check the air pressure every other day or so.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In simpler terms, I initially was getting flats because of low quality tires, which includes the fact I couldn't fill them up to 65 psi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, once my tire got stabbed, I was getting flats due to the hole (obviously) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now, this past week, I've been getting them for a few reasons, those being;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;again, cheap tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;low air pressure, which was necessary due to the low quality tubes &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the tire liner being too rough and rubbing the tube &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;also, the fact it's monsoon season here I'm sure played a factor. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;my weight makes all these factors THAT much more important &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, again, this is all my guess bases on this morning's events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20981" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T05:43:38.663" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T05:43:38.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1743" CreationDate="2015-08-11T18:39:27.883" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason is that in many places the law requires motorcycle helmets to be full-face. On a bicycle in most locations helmets are not required and the choice is yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride with a half-head helmet in temperatures up to 95°F and never find ventilation is an issue at all. I can't believe the extra protection of my mouth and chin would suddenly change that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21009" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T03:35:32.637" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T03:35:32.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32633" CreationDate="2015-08-11T20:05:41.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Klunker as a term is synonymous with early mountain bike (as it is currently known). Klunkers were developed by customising early beach cruisers on 26&quot; wheels (Schwinn predominantly) by spreading the rear dropouts to make them multi-geared and adding moto handle bars and brakes due to their durability and strength (brands such as Magura were initially moto brands). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term klunker was used to describe these built up bikes on cruiser frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This style of bike and mountain riding first appeared in Marin County, California in the mid 70's prior to the first purpose designed mountain bike appearing in 78. If you look at the proponents of the early mountain biking movement and design; Gary Fisher, Joe Breeze, Charlie Kelly, Tom Ritchey and Keith Bontrager (there are going to be many more....) all were active in Marin and it's surrounding counties at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T20:05:41.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-11T22:01:16.623" Score="4" ViewCount="1803" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got some spare Specialized &quot;Airlock&quot; inner tubes that are size 26x1.5/2.2. That means 26 inch rims, but what does the 1.5/2.2 mean? It fits 1.5 to 2.2 width tires or something else? Curious what this kind of size specification means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, will it be advisable to use it on my bike that has 26x2.1 tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21010" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T22:20:29.957" Title="What is the actual size of a 26x1.5/2.2 tube?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32631" CreationDate="2015-08-11T22:09:28.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible but not straightforward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In most cases the bottom bracket is wider on a triple than a double.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The front derailleur has a wider range and a different ratio. Note that a standard and compact double ALSO have different derailleurs and you must be cautious since a compact front and a triple front look the same but have different motion ratios.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rear derailleur usually has too small a range and might need to be replaced with a &quot;medium&quot; or &quot;long cage&quot; so that it can absorb the extra chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The left shifter is probably different for a triple than a double. (There are exceptions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The original chain is no doubt something like 10 links too short.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is about the only thing the same in the groups are the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are fast rules and there are slight exceptions depending on manufacturers and the exact group you are working with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20999" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T00:38:56.073" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T00:38:56.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32622" CreationDate="2015-08-11T22:16:42.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a standard English manufactured sport bike probably from the mid-60's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It used freewheel type hubs and from what I can see you appear to have modified the rear wheel with a seven speed freewheel. The original rear triangle spacing was probably 125 mm and the seven speed uses a 127 mm spacing. Usually someone would re-space the rear triangle and put a spacer on the right side of the axle and normally they would not re-center the rim. This would cause the wheel to be slightly off-center in the stays. It usually had no deleterious effect.12speed &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20999" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T15:43:04.440" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T15:43:04.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32640" CreationDate="2015-08-11T22:20:29.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tubes expand quite a lot as they are inflated - Try pumping one up on its own and see how quickly if expands (don't over do it unless you never want to use the tube again.). The way tubes and tires work, the tube holds the air in, the tire prevents the tube expanding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1.5-2.2 means the tube is suitable for a tire 1.5 up to 2.2 and is ideal for you 2.1 tire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T22:20:29.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32609" CreationDate="2015-08-11T22:21:24.103" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There shouldn't be any difference but I believe that the slight difference is nothing more than an antiseptic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20999" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T22:21:24.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32580" CreationDate="2015-08-11T22:35:39.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a difficult question since it partly is reliant upon your excess weight and the speed you are riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as a general rule no more than 10 miles before you eat the first time and every five thereafter. You have to keep food in the assembly line because it takes an hour or so to get into your bloodstream and it is slow to spread. So if you start a century completely recovered and you're moving along well, if you eat and drink well you will still finish the ride tired from insufficient nutrition. The lower down your performance curve the less chance of this happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can actually calculate the number of calories you require for a particular distance using weight and speed and using an efficiency factor to know exactly how much you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20999" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T22:35:39.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32541" CreationDate="2015-08-11T22:44:15.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;And these days 27 inch wheels are so old that the problem they have is overtightened spokes. People that do not know how to build wheels properly simply tighten them to pull a wow out of them. This works it's way around the wheel and they keep tightening them until they are at the very limit of their tensile strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to tell is that when spokes are too loose they will USUALLY fail at the bend. When they are too tight they will fail either at the spoke crossing or the nipple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spokes should not be so tight that they ring like a guitar string. Though there is a dull bell-like quality to properly tightened spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20999" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T22:44:15.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32462" CreationDate="2015-08-11T23:02:50.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would underscore taking it to a trusted local shop to remove the bunged screw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I would also suggest that if you've tightened the other four that your creak is NOT coming from the chain rings but probably from either your pedal, your cleat or your shoe. Also if you haven't lubed the chain for awhile you can try that as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creak from the chainrings will almost always be heard when pedaling on both sides. This will also be the case with the crank bolt as well if it isn't properly torqued. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one case it was the right LEVER that wasn't tight enough. In another the front derailleur. But shoes and cleats are the most common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20999" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T23:02:50.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32650" CreationDate="2015-08-11T23:22:43.577" Score="9" ViewCount="2259" Body="&lt;p&gt;For about the last year, I've had a problem keeping my bike on the road. Originally, my rear tube went flat when the tire was punctured by an office staple (don't ask me how a regular office staple could have been positioned properly on the road and puncture all the way through the tire while I was riding, I can't figure that out either). Since then, every time I replace the tube, it lasts for maybe two weeks and then goes flat again. Each time, the tube gets this mysterious slice along the inner side. Here is a picture of one of these slices. It's very faint; only deep enough to puncture fully through the tube in a few places.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JLOqv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JLOqv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is a picture of the inner side of the tube. The slice is almost halfway down from the seam and runs across the length of the tube shown here. My patch is covering the largest hole, but doesn't solve the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I saw this, I figured it was something to do with the rim. However, this slice (which is usually about 20cm long) appears in different locations relative to the valve on every new tube. So if it is something to do with the rim, it isn't anything that would be in a fixed location on the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also thought it could be due to installation error, so I made sure a few times I had professionals at the shop do the installing. Same thing; about two weeks later it would be flat with a slice like this through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this has nothing to do with the tire itself, since no part of the tire is in contact with this part of the tube. Given the time it takes to form, it looks like something is gradually cutting into the tube and, after about two weeks, finally manages to wear through it. I've washed the rim thoroughly and run my fingers along it to check for slivers. Nothing. I thought maybe it was the rim strip, the edge of which contacts the tube. That's still my number 1 guess, but if that's it, why is this slice only along a ~20cm section of the tube (I've checked the rest, no slice) and always in a different place along the rim? Why wouldn't it either be in the same place or along the entire tube if it were the strip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, this mystery has me stumped and has cost me a fortune in tubes and bus fare (what with a bike no longer being my commute option). To try to mitigate it, I've tried using self-sealing tubes, which obviously didn't work perfectly (lasted an extra few days though) because they are more suited for punctures on the outer side of the tube. My next thought is trying puncture-proof tubes. If I can't figure out how to stop these slices, I figure puncture-proof tubes would be thick enough to give me a few extra weeks per tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, the bike is a Trek 3700 with 26X2 wheels and I usually pump the rear wheel up to about 45-50 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: What's causing these slices in my tubes? How can I prevent it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21011" LastEditorUserId="21011" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T13:10:20.670" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T03:45:17.510" Title="What is mysteriously slicing the inside of my tubes?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="21" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32649" CreationDate="2015-08-11T23:28:34.653" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with your diagnosis: it must be related to the rim tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it off and inspect it and the rim below. If you don't find anything obvious, buy new, good quality rim tapes, check there are no sharp edges, and reinstall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T23:28:34.653" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32652" CreationDate="2015-08-12T01:54:14.913" Score="2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mountain bike on a hardtail I got about 3 months ago. I love it, but am wondering If road bike is a good investment as far as training. I want to take things beyond just mountain biking a handful of miles a few times a week. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I hear everyone talk about winter biking and it being all different. I live in a place where it doesn't really go below 20°F so would either road biking or mountain biking like not be a possibility during the winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering if (training wise) a road bike is a good investment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21012" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T02:29:32.260" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:33:34.040" Title="Mountain vs Road" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32651" CreationDate="2015-08-12T02:15:54.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will go further and faster on a road bike for the same effort. You go further and faster on a better (i.e. more expensive) bike. Training is not about going further and faster for the same effort, its about putting in more effort. So, will a road bike make a difference - only if you will put in more effort on the road bike than the MTB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the idea of road riding spins you wheels, get a road bike because if you are enjoying it the training will happen. If the idea behind a road bike is a road bike lets you go the same speed and distance for less effort, a road bike will not help you meet your training objectives, except if you enjoy doing the same speed and distance for less effort, you are more likely to keep doing it rather than stopping altogether.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(you could pretty much 'road' in the above and other adjective describing a bicycle here) 'expensive', 'fat', 'single speed', 'Down hill', 'pink'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plenty of people ride in sub freezing temperatures, its entirely possible to do so and enjoy. More people pack their bikes away for winter because its too hard. Only you can decide which group you want to be in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T02:15:54.393" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T09:43:19.540" Score="1" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bicycle with an internally geared hub (Rohloff).  To tension the chain, I loosed the attachment of the rear wheel (dropouts), draw back the rear wheel, and tighten the attachment again.  However, on one side, this mechanism is stuck.  I've oiled it but it's still stuck.  What can I try next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/REjL3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/REjL3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tightening mechanism, failing side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mechanism is supposed to move back and forth when the bolts are loosened, but it doesn't.  On this photo, I removed the bolts connecting it to the dropout completely, to make sure that isn't the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ac6hA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ac6hA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tightening mechanism, working side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas on the other side of my bicycle, it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves me with the choice of cycling with a loose chain, or cycling with a slightly less loose chain but a rear wheel that isn't straight.  Not a great choice.  How can I unstuck this mechanism?  I've already tried to oil it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing on the left (with a thread visible) is stuck.  It is supposed to be connected to the thing sticking out on the right, but regardless of how much I loosed the thing sticking out on the right, the thing on the left won't move.  Sorry, I don't know the right terminology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastEditorUserId="2916" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T10:01:21.247" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T10:01:21.247" Title="Mechanism to draw rear wheel back and tighten chain stuck; oil not helping, what's next?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T09:56:25.493" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;What frame should I choose for free-ride / downhill between &lt;code&gt;Kona Stinky&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Specialised Big Hit&lt;/code&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a hobbyist downhill-er / free rider with average height 1.68 meters and 67 kg. &#xA;I am asking your opinion about the cyclic of the bikes and rider stories about usability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20951" LastEditorUserId="21017" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T19:34:43.793" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T19:34:43.793" Title="Downhill bike build" Tags="&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-08-15T05:21:37.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32580" CreationDate="2015-08-12T13:17:35.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the question about non-stop cycling or just riding over several days or weeks? For non-stop cycling it’s less about starvation and more about the maximum power you can get from burning body fat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Race Across America the record (without any food restrictions) is 27km/h average over 4860km in 7d 16h. Since stopping and sleeping is allowed (though discouraged) on the RAAM I searched for longest time spent cycling non-stop. A record I could find was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldrecordacademy.com/sports/longest_stationary_bike_riding-George_Hood_sets_new_world_record_80244.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;George Hood who spent about 178 hours over eight days riding a spinning bike&lt;/a&gt;. They state a distance of 2,016 miles (3,244.438km) though I don’t know what kind of conversion factor they use (since you obviously don’t move while riding a stationary bike the only meaningful number would be average power or total energy output). If we just trust that number we get an average speed of 18.2km/h which is really slow for road biking on flat terrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t know what the limiting factor for such extremly long distances is, but at such relatively low speeds it should be possible to depend on fat alone without slowing down much. There are endurance athletes who deliberately stay on a low-carbohydrate diet to force their bodies into &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ketosis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ketosis&lt;/a&gt; while still training many kilometers per week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus I doubt that food makes much difference for low-intensity, very long distance bicycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bicycling until starvation the limiting factor is available body fat. With 400km per day you’d need about 8000kcal (assuming 16h of bicycling at 25km/h with 400kcal per hour (-&gt; 6400kcal) and 1600kcal basic requirement) per day. Which is 888.9g of fat per day. Thus with 20kg of fat you could go for 22.5 days yielding 9000km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastEditorUserId="19529" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T09:42:50.450" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T09:42:50.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T15:04:01.193" Score="1" ViewCount="723" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wheel had 26 x 1.95 tyres. I bought 26 x 2.125 thinking it would fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While fitting the new tyre, it bulged outside at one location and the tube also came out for about 7 inches. The tube is the one with slime sealant inside so I am not able to take the air out of tube. I ordered the valve core tool to remove the valve. The tube is also relatively new, I bought it about couple of months back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can I reuse the tube after the removing the valve and deflate the tube ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can the tyre be used or it is not fitting, that is why it bulged in one place ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21019" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:32:34.700" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:32:34.700" Title="Tyre popped when going from 26 x 1.95 to 26 x 2.125" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32662" CreationDate="2015-08-12T15:49:41.403" Score="10" ViewCount="1631" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most riders seem to say it's their groin, neck or lower back that starts hurting first after a decent distance has been ridden. For me it is my wrists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no history of wrist pain (strains, breaks etc) so it can't be explained by that and I try to adjust my hand positions across my handlebars as often as I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question has 2 parts: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Is there anything I can do to minimise pain in terms of riding position, gloves, exercises etc which will reduce soreness?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Why might this pain be occurring?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I do all of my riding on paved roads on a road (Specialized Allez) bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17252" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T08:09:35.000" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T11:51:11.160" Title="Why are my wrists the first part of my body to start aching during a long ride?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;pain&gt;&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32657" CreationDate="2015-08-12T16:36:04.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say, you just didn't put the tire on well. When you inflate the tire to half its recommended pressure you should check that the tire seats well for the whole diameter around the rim on both sides. If it came out even a little, push it back in (may require some deflating). Otherwise the pressure may push the tire out like you had, and then the tube can explode.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your questions: both the tire and the tube can be used again. But check accurately that the tire's bead is not damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="6782" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T20:47:17.240" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:47:17.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32658" CreationDate="2015-08-12T17:23:17.020" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding part 1: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start by raising the stack height a bit so that you lean on your wrists with less weight; your position will be more upright and less aerodynamic.  Along with this, make sure your saddle is properly adjusted for height.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly you should try strengthening your abdominal muscles. With a stronger core you will be able to support yourself less with your arms/wrists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding Part 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be happening because of improper position/bit fit (saddle too high/bars too low), weak core, bars are too narrow for your frame (approx. chest width), etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my own experience on a Specialized Allez and Secteur - both similar Aluminum road bikes, the latter considered more comfort/endurance - I can say that I have had wrist pain on long rides and the core strengthening was really all that helped me, regardless of my position in relation to the bars.  You might also try some bar gel under your tape for extra comfort.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastEditorUserId="19106" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T22:18:18.430" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T22:18:18.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32658" CreationDate="2015-08-12T19:30:12.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things you can do to alleviate hand/wrist pain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise handlebars and/or shorter stem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Padded gloves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double layer of handlebar tape or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000QSXYHM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gel pads&lt;/a&gt; under the tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move hand location frequently between cross bar, hoods, corners and&#xA;drops (for me at least, when my handlebars are higher I tend to&#xA;spend more time in the drops)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to maintain your forward lean angle for efficiency you can address wrist pain with padding, but if you don't need an aggressive forward lean then you can play around with handlebar position to provide a more upright comfortable lean angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T19:30:12.343" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32654" CreationDate="2015-08-12T19:44:49.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try something specifically designed for seized parts. PBlaster or Kroil come to mind. Whatever you do, definitely exhaust the non-mechanical remedies before you get out the breaker bar!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T19:44:49.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32654" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:25:21.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little puzzled by the threads that look like they should draw the hub's axle back to tension the chain. They don't appear like they can move, but it also doesn't look like there is a nut on them to pull the axel back. Do you know if they thread into the frame, or are they free to slide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it appears that the load on the mechanism would tend to misalign the threaded part where it passes through the frame. This is very likely to cause it to jam. I think you could try very gently prying up on the loop where the axle attaches or perhaps tapping down gently on the top of the loop. It shouldn't take much force at all. I'm assuming that the frame is not threaded and that the adjuster should slide freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:25:21.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32651" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:33:34.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see two questions here...&#xA;First, will you benefit from a road bike?  If you will ride it more than you are riding the mountain bike, then yes.  That will depend on where you live (are there good roads or paved trails for a road bike), who you ride with, etc. I do most of my riding on my road bike because I live near an excellent paved trail and there are lots of great country roads a short ride away.  I can ride out my front door.  Mountain biking involves driving to the trail head, or a medium length ride on pavement to get there on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, can you train through the winter? Yes, absolutely. It's just a matter of having the correct gear for the temperature. Warm clothes that wick sweat. Good gloves are critical.  Probably a high-output light (and tail light), as winter means shorter days and frequently being caught out after sunset.  I ride all year, in temperatures down to 20*F or so.  Much colder than that and I ride the indoor trainer, though there's no reason I couldn't ride outside other than my own comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21022" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:33:34.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32620" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:47:10.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;120psi is too much for most riders.  For an average weight rider (160lbs or so) on average width tires (23-25mm), 90-100psi is all you should need.  I usually run a good bit lower than that (80-85psi), but I'm only 145lbs and ride 26-28mm tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21022" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:47:10.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32609" CreationDate="2015-08-12T20:52:16.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many cases, the difference is just related to the scent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some standard chamois cream has menthol or some other &quot;icy hot&quot; chemical, which some women find a bit &quot;strong&quot; for their sensitive bits.  Many women's creams use something milder, like peppermint oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mad Alchemy lists some of the major ingredients in their chamois creams:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madalchemy.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.madalchemy.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21022" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:52:16.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32670" CreationDate="2015-08-12T21:12:17.917" Score="3" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently I have a hard tail that I love, but I know that as I get more into mountain biking I'm probably going to want to upgrade. But I'm still pretty new to the trails. I'm wondering which you all think (this question is opinion based) I should buy: a Full suspension bike or just a full suspension frame, using the old components I have. I have a Diamondback hardtail, so yeah it's pretty cheap but I like what I have and the fork seems pretty good as far as I'm concerned. Also, I'm trying to keep a low budget (like under $1000)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21012" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T21:35:52.757" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T11:26:06.360" Title="Full Suspension MTB or just a new Frame" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;full-suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1759" CreationDate="2015-08-12T21:17:41.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed. Most non-elite amateurs cannot sustain rpms to use a 53x11 or even the 12 cog in a competitive ride/race. A 50x34 (or 36) w/terrain-suitable cog range makes better sense for more road riders than what is typically used. Many pro group training rides cruise 4-5 hour rides on their 53x17's at &gt; 90 rpm. They don't live on those super-human gears the mags and &quot;experts&quot; tout. Great advice in this forum with excellent real life examples. We used to have a restricted-gear early Spring race series (February to end of March) w/little ring and 12 or 13 cog to encourage using a tolerable gear and developing cardiovascular fitness prior to the April-October road season. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21024" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T21:17:41.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32668" CreationDate="2015-08-12T21:40:55.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think first you should read up on the price point people recommend staying with a hard tail. Below that figure (about $US2000 depending who you speak to) Soft tails are heavy with poor rear suspension performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost always, the most economic way to upgrade is to sell the current bike and buy a second hand one. The BD (if its the bike I am thinking of $500ish price point) does not have components worth putting onto a a ST frame worth riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are new to MTB, and enjoy the bike you have, stick with the bike you have and start saving until you get a bank balance that lets you truly upgrade - not just a sideways or downwards shift. Riding a HT needs skills that you can get away with not having on a ST. These skills make you a better rider and a HT is the best way to learn them. Don't upgrade till you are sure its the bike limiting you riding - most riders get much more improvement for a lot less by upgrading themselves rather than the bike - get some training - a coaching session or four, read mags and books, or watch few MTB coaching videos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T21:40:55.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T00:54:06.520" Score="1" ViewCount="1146" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Disc brakes have been shuddering all day (been riding most the day). And when I say moan, I mean like I can feel the bike shudder up to my rear end. I tried the trick where you rub mud on them and brake hard a few times, and that made them stop shuddering, temporarily. I think the reason they are shuddering is because I recently took out the pads and cleaned them. I also cleaned off the rotors with some simple green. I'm not sure I bedded the pads in right, because I've never really done so before. To bed them in I just braked hard a handful of times after re-inserting all 4 of my cleaned pads. The pads are in good condition, as they have those little gold sparkles. I checked the calipers, and everything looks good. I don't think they're contaminated, as the rotor is clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; So here's what I've done: scrubbed the pads off with an unused toothbrush, cleaned off the rotors with isopropyl alcohol, and bedded in the pads properly this time (dousing the rotors with cold clean water each time!). Yet it still moaned. The reason I say that past tense is that in adjusting the worlds most nonadjustable mountain bike somehow the brake cable has gone completely slack. I can't even tighten or loosen it on my bike (diamondback overdrive sport). I tried adjusting the calipers, nope. To adjust them, one has to loosen them to the point where they just wobble around or have them so tight that the pads rub the rotor. So yeah, I'm probably going to have to take an expensive trip to the bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21012" LastEditorUserId="21012" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T15:33:28.990" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T02:49:52.710" Title="Moaning Disc Brakes?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32671" CreationDate="2015-08-13T01:29:51.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like dirty pads to me, but disks can be a pain to de-squeak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things I'd check are...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clean the rotors with alcohol, brake cleaner or a bottle of ethanol from the chemist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove and reinsert wheels. Make sure the QRs are nice and tight, and the wheels are straight/centred properly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check all the bolts holding your callipers to the frame/fork are tight enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rotor bolts too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try and bed the pads in again, 10-20 hard stops should do it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should do it really, if it doesn't try new pads on clean rotors. Bed them well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try lightly greasing the back of the pad where it touches the piston and sanding the pads down, cleaning the rotors, and bedding in again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T02:49:52.710" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T02:49:52.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32668" CreationDate="2015-08-13T03:57:46.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very common dilemma. You should ride as much as you can on your current bike. Wear that thing out. Your legs and lungs will get stronger every ride because it's probably heavy and not quite perfect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting out is incredibly tough, but if you can keep your dedication up by riding once a week for a year THEN you should upgrade to a better bike. It's just too easy to spend a load of money and then let the bike sit around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride as much as you can, read as much as you can (MTBR forums, BIKE magazine, etc.), talk to other MTBers and then ride some more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a low-end Canondale hardtail that kept blowing out the front shock. From there I went to a medium-end Canondale Moto 5 full suspension bike that was super heavy but the price was right used. I rode that for about a year. Finally, I upgraded to a Yeti SB-66 with nice components. I've been riding it for 3 years and it's an amazing bike. It was a pretty hefty investment, but I have gotten my money's worth out of the beast, and I really love having an amazing bike out on the trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21020" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T05:26:41.523" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T05:26:41.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32620" CreationDate="2015-08-13T04:09:39.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Head for a hill and ride up it as often as you can. Listen to your body when it comes to sleep and nutrition. Ride at least once a week for more than an hour to build your stamina. It's just like any other exercise, you start slow but to get better you always have to increase the difficulty. You can make it harder by going more often and going further distances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt; is a great tool to track your rides and to see how much better you get every time you ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21020" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T04:09:39.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32678" CreationDate="2015-08-13T09:30:19.797" Score="18" ViewCount="5181" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throughout &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfBctfYlVqk&amp;amp;t=4m2s&quot;&gt;the entire Kranked series&lt;/a&gt;, riders are doing insane jumps and drops. What puzzles me is that, despite beginner advice to land both wheels (nearly) simultaneously, about half of the landings are &lt;em&gt;as seen on the first several seconds of the linked video&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Land on rear tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While the front tire descends to the ground, perform a disproportional movement with the body - the hips move little, the upper body moves a lot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I very much doubt those drops look like that, because the riders are unskilled. So - &lt;em&gt;what is the usefulness of landing rear-first&lt;/em&gt;, provided tire placement precision is not a concern (i.e. not hopping around)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T05:59:18.860" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T07:25:24.737" Title="What is the purpose of landing on the rear tire?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;jumping&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31233" CreationDate="2015-08-13T11:11:44.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rubber-hose-like cable housings used to be made of lower quality materials such as plastic. This made the amount of friction within the lines to be high enough that lubrication was needed, usually a heavy grease or oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On modern lines with the flexible, soft rubber-like material, lubrication has an adverse effect on your cables, making them feel kind of gunky, slow, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the gearing problem, I would first try to maneuver the barrel adjuster to see if that solves the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loosen the gear cable just a tad, (maybe a quarter inch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;re-index your gears&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you say your problem is, I would think that one of these methods should work. If not, however, I would look into replacing the cable altogether. If nothing else, you could also just take it to your LBS and have them take a peek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T11:24:56.413" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T11:24:56.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32676" CreationDate="2015-08-13T11:26:21.033" Score="12" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Landing on the rear wheel is a safe bet when you are not sure about the landing zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example a small tree root would be catastrophic if you are landing with both wheel. What happens is that since the downwards force from the fall is applied to both wheels, it is much harder to roll over the obstacle. If the front wheel cannot roll over, you basically flipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is ok for the rear wheel to struggle to roll over an obstacle, as you can always drop the front wheel, balance the weight and roll easily over.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After the initial landing, there is always a bounce-back where all the tyre and spokes compression/tension is released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is better not to lose traction on the front wheel upon landing and thus landing on both wheel is also not a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What actually happens is 1) they are not exactly landing on rear wheel, it is an initial touch-down to reduce the falling momentum, 2) the body still continue to fall but decelerates thanks to the rear, 3) critical step to distribute the remaining falling momentum onto two wheels: too much on rear you will break something (minor) or even worse it will pump all your weight to the front wheel (see video at 34:54), too much on the front you will either flip or lose traction as previously discussed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all the above, what is important, perhaps a lot more important than whether you land on rear first or front first or both at the same time, is that you can extend the duration of impact as much as possible. This reduce the bounce-back as discussed in 2. Landing rear first is one way to prolong the impact and is also safer than landing front first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T07:25:24.737" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T07:25:24.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32676" CreationDate="2015-08-13T11:41:59.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Landing on the back wheel is a technique used to offer greater control of the bike when landing or transitioning between bike maneuvers. When landing on the rear wheel, your positioning on the bike has a greater amount of control and stability. Say, for instance, you need to turn or pivot the bike in order to land safely or successfully transition into a different maneuver. If landed on two wheels, the process itself would be slowed down drastically and you just might find yourself falling off or hitting something with your bike. If you landed on the front wheel, the same hazards apply, but your control of the bike is vastly lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, the rear wheel gives you a fairly solid foundation on the ground to either avoid collisions, transfer into new maneuvers, or to simply just land a maneuver in a controlled and quick manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T11:41:59.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32676" CreationDate="2015-08-13T14:23:25.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you land you tend to go out the front rather than the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You pretty much never land in perfect alignment and even if you do you get pushed around.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you land front wheel first the rear wheel is going to come around and only get worse.  When the rear does touch it will be out of alignment.  As you absorb with your arms you only get more forward and go out the front.  If you extend your arms and put you weight back as far as you can you have to take the whole hit.  Your body is not in a position to help absorb the landing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear wheel first the font is pulled into alignment and front steers so the front (can be) in alignment when the wheel touches even if the bike is not yet in alignment.  Also legs are longer and stronger than arms to absorb the shock and can stay in position on the bike.  Even if you are way rear wheel early you can shift weight forward and your body is in a position to absorb the landing.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T14:37:46.207" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T14:37:46.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T15:00:32.123" Score="1" ViewCount="1012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need your advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/2014.giant.escape.3.black.blue/14980/66558/#specifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giant Escape 2014 UK model bike&lt;/a&gt; and it's time to change the chain and the original cassette/freewheel, which are worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, if I get &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000NNX2P4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; Sram PG850 8-speed cassette, will it fit nicely instead of the original Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney 7-speed freewheel?&#xA;They say Sram cassettes are Shimano compatible but I just want to be sure, I'm rather a newbie to cycling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it combine well with the bike's current Shimano Tourney TX55 6/7 speed rear derailleur and Shimano EZ FIRE 40 21 speed shifters? (I don't mind having only 7 speeds on the new cassette).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for helping!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21038" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T15:07:48.780" Title="Is Sram PG850 cassette a substitute for Shimano TZ31 freewheel?" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32682" CreationDate="2015-08-13T15:07:48.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;SRAM Cassettes are compatible with Shimano Cassettes, but a cassette and a freewheel are different components. You will not be able to use the SRAM Cassette to replace your Shimano Freewheel. You will need to replace your freewheel with a freewheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between a cassette and a freewheel is that a cassette is just a bunch of cogs that slides onto a free hub. This allows the wheel to spin without the chain moving. With a freewheel, the cogs and freewheeling mechanism are all in a single assembly, and this is screwed onto the hub of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T15:07:48.780" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32676" CreationDate="2015-08-13T15:19:49.557" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't watch the video now, but there are two reasons to land on the rear wheel first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first wheel to touch down is more likely to suffer a loss of control or traction.  It's a common two wheel maxim that &quot;most rear wheel slides recover, most front wheel slides crash&quot;, so you want that wheel to be the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It can help absorb the impact.  Imagine the rider standing tall on the pedals with the bars pulled up to their chest, the bike nearly vertical.  As the rear wheel hits the ground the rider can allow the bars to fall away from them while they simultaneously transition to hanging off the back - rider and bike collapse like a scissor-jack absorbing the impact.  This is particularly beloved of trials riders, it can be emphasised to varying degrees depending on the severity of the drop - and the amount of suspension you do or don't have!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11518" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T15:19:49.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T15:41:34.653" Score="0" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;I changed the bottom-bracket in my mountain bike two years ago, the problem was that the bolt on the crank on the non-drive side was continuously getting loose, to the point that I had to stop and tighten it again every mile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a new BB the bike was all right, and it worked fine for almost two years (I wasn't using it that regularly though). Until last week, when it started having the same problem again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The BB is a part of the bike that usually lasts forever, so I'm not really convinced about changing it again, because the current one lasted so short, I think there could be some other problem in the bike, that causes the BB to wear faster. But I haven't got a clue about what that could be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience or thoughts about it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10969" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T06:35:25.063" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T06:35:25.063" Title="pedal crank moves and tries to slip off the axle" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;axle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32676" CreationDate="2015-08-13T17:10:04.587" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;All those riders were doing a very specific of rear wheel landing where you land into a momentary manual (finding a balance point on the rear wheel by shifting your weight backwards and pulling on the handle bars with your arms and upper back).  This lets you absorb the impact with your upper back and legs (the two biggest muscle groups in the body) as well as using the bike's suspension.  This is essentially a modified trials technique (watch how &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cj6ho1-G6tw&quot;&gt;Danny MacAskill lands drops to flat&lt;/a&gt;). If you have ever landed this way and you nail the balance point, you feel like you can extend the time of impact by quite a bit, reducing the peak forces you experience.  When done right it feels like you have an enormous capacity to absorb huge hits (especially when landing to flat). Miss landing into the balance point and you can end up in a lot of pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Historical context of the linked video series&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video series you linked to (the Kranked series; early 2000's) came out in the infancy of the big air/free ride movement in the North Shore and interior BC (time and place I learned to mountain bike). Being able to absorb hits like this was useful as most of the trails at the time didn't have big run outs or fast lead ins (we built them when our bikes were hard tails with 3 inch suspension forks). As a result riders tended come into these insane drops at a slower speed that is done today.   The drops also didn't have kickers and the  transitions were not groomed or tailored. The style evolved to handle these natural drops at a slower speed.  (&lt;em&gt;Personal I never did anything above 10 feet on these trails, though a couple people I used to ride with did do some of those insane road gaps and were even featured in the video series you linked&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today many of the trails are much different, more groomed and much faster with tailored launch rams and big transitions at the proper angle to land on. This necessitates a different style than the one in the video series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T17:10:04.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31923" CreationDate="2015-08-13T20:27:51.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this because of increased leg muscle (weight)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confident that no, bicycling has not packed so much muscle onto your legs that they are now too heavy to walk normally and comfortably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:27:51.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32685" CreationDate="2015-08-13T20:32:59.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that by the time the first bottom bracket (crank axle) was replaced the left side pedal arm was also damaged. When you installed the damaged crank arm to the new axle it worked for awhile. You are now at the point that you have a worn arm and a worn crank axle. Replacement of just one of the components will result the premature failure of the other. You need a new bottom bracket and crankset. As this is an expensive repair it may be worth looking for a used assembly that is in good shape. The crank arm bolt should be tightened to about 30-35 ftlbs of torque. This takes quite a bit of effort with the average 6 inch long allen wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="3083" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T20:48:24.107" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:48:24.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6672" CreationDate="2015-08-13T22:21:46.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Schwalbe tubes are both Seamless (they're extruded rather than vulcanized pieces) and have a higher butyl content.  The are made in their own facility, and they don't make tubes for anyone else.  They've been independently tested to hold air better than anything on the market.  So no, not all tubes are the same, they`re not made all in the same facility!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21046" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T23:00:52.297" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T23:00:52.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11216" CreationDate="2015-08-14T02:29:23.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;baby wipes all day son - best, cheapest option to rim to rim, and you can even get them in organic!  I've even used coconut oil as an on the spot bike lube.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21052" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T02:29:23.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32706" CreationDate="2015-08-14T03:27:18.110" Score="3" ViewCount="45400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I replaced the rear derailer on my bike after Schwinn sent it to me. The old one had a bent piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't shift onto the largest 2 rear gears. I set the shifter to the lowest setting, but the chain won't shift onto either of the 2 largest gears.. It looks like the rear derailer isn't aligned straight with the rest of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparing to another similar bike I have that works fine, I can see that the rear derailer on the properly working bike is perfectly aligned compared to the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/cGDD8Ert28w?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update : I just fixed this (thanks to the suggestions) by tightening the tension cable and also by loosening the H Screw (assuming that is what it is called)...it works perfect now..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;update 2 : This question seemed to have got a few views and so updating with some additional information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first video sent to Pacific cycles&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/MjdlIOJ0PQs?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They were awesome and sent the derailleur (I did not know what this part was called earlier) to me and I put in the new derailleur and then asked this question on stack&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/cGDD8Ert28w?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sent the question above to Pacific cycles also and they also replied&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with the help of folks here and Pacific cycles I was able to fix this&#xA;Luckily in my case it was a simple issue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/f4tZc8ZkGKo?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21053" LastEditorUserId="21053" LastEditDate="2017-02-24T01:40:08.747" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T01:40:08.747" Title="Bike won't shift into 2 largest rear cogs (lowest gears)" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-14T04:34:57.253" Score="0" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any alternative exercise to biking while it's raining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been fortunate enough to solve my insomnia with biking...something with it seems to connect and works well to solve my ages old problem of sleep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part that helps me most is climbing hills, not so much the flat parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jogging, walking, etc. somehow DO NOT seem to have the same effect in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering what I will do when winter comes in and it  starts raining... any suggestions other than buying a costly stationary bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20634" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T22:34:15.300" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T22:36:43.797" Title="Alternative excercise to biking" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;health&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-08-18T13:25:48.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32694" CreationDate="2015-08-14T09:04:31.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can train inside your house with a trainer stand. Is quite cheap compared to stationary bike and it can be stored more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21058" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T22:36:43.797" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T22:36:43.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2015-08-14T09:10:23.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I chose the internet to find the answer to the question which way does each pedal loosenand from what ive learned I would answer your question with ' put the wrench on the pedal at 12 o'clock like the arm on a clock and turn it towards the back of the bike for both sides to loosen, I may be wrong but I'm about to try and find out for myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21059" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T09:10:23.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-14T09:57:42.523" Score="4" ViewCount="3341" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a new mini pump (with a foot-stand and pressure gauge to get up to about 100psi), however, in order to get a good seal you have to screw the pump-head onto the valve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is, with the presta valves I run, when unscrewing the pump there's a long distance between the pumps seal breaking and being able to come free of the valve (letting it do its job), so if the tyre is up to 100/115psi it can often go back down to around 80 or 90 in the time I've unscrewed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong, or is it just a slightly awkward setup on the pump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21060" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T23:31:11.090" Title="Am I unscrewing my pump incorrectly?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;pump&gt;&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32821" CreationDate="2015-08-14T12:01:12.493" Score="1" ViewCount="805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased the long type of v-brake pads from Disco Brakes at Amazon. These are the ones with the tail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original brakes were the simple shorter kind, installed as small spacer/washer/brake post/washer/large spacer/washer/nut. The concave/convex parts fitting together. Interestingly enough the new brakes had the same order!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I watched one brake repair video at YouTube, and they said there was another washer, a flat one, between the brake and the first spacer. Neither my old or my new brakes had that. Another video told me to use the big spacer first and loosen the cable to do so. Still another place said to use the washer on the post first, then the spacer that fits into it. So I am confused. What is the best order here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the title of this post, it refers to a rear brake install. I installed it as listed above, because that was how the previous brakes were installed and the order of stuff on the new brakes. I tighten it down, and the brake is rotating around! The front ones stay in place, but even though it is tightly screwed to the brake post, that one rear brake is able to rotate around!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will check the post in the morning, make sure it is not a flawed brake pad. But if it is not, I would like to know what to do with this very strange issue. I can switch the brake for one of the fronts and see how that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21061" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T08:30:26.747" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T16:52:42.850" Title="My brakes rotate around after I tighten them and other v-brake questions" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32676" CreationDate="2015-08-14T13:49:48.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Landing with the rear wheel first is rarely a good idea nowadays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The video, although very &quot;ballsy&quot; and really of great historical importance, is very old school in regards to bike technology, terrain and rider technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Landing with the rear first is only useful when you need to drop to flat from more than 10 feet where you need a way to absorb as much as possible without risking a failure (bike or body). This is common in trial and BMX riding. Modern MTB riding doesn't involve much &quot;hucking&quot; to flat nowadays. Every aspect of aggressive MTB trail riding (all mountain, &quot;enduro&quot; and downhill) which is done at high speeds and requires high levels of control, mandates that all landing are as controlled as possible, which is to land both wheels at the same time on the transition of the landing. Even in slope style and big mountain events, landings are always very very smooth so the rider can land both wheels at the same time and not risk losing control:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eMKEE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eMKEE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at those riders on how smooth they land both wheels at the same time. Doing anything other than that in those speeds would be really dangerous:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/UoKL_bKx3bw?t=53s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/UoKL_bKx3bw?t=53s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, have a look at another explanation by some pro riders why landing with the rear is not good: &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/XJSaSod4AqA?t=1m35s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/XJSaSod4AqA?t=1m35s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T13:49:48.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32676" CreationDate="2015-08-14T15:26:55.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When none of the wheels of a bicycle are on the ground, the center of mass is going to accelerate downward at approximately 9.8m/s/s and there's nothing the rider can do to significantly alter that.  If both wheels touch the ground while the center of mass is at the highest possible point where that can occur, there will be a severe limit as to how much further down the center of mass can move after that point without damaging something.  This means that, if landing on flat ground, the wheels must transfer enough force to the ground to reduce the velocity of the center of mass to zero within that distance, or else the center of mass &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; travel further than would be possible without damage, and as a consequence something will get damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the rear wheel is on the ground but the front is not, any force with which the rear wheel pushes on the ground will help to reduce the downward velocity of the center of mass.  Although the rear wheel alone cannot supply as much upward force as would both wheels together, the center of mass can be much higher when just the rear wheel touches than it could be with both wheels touching.  This effectively increases the distance over which the velocity of the center of mass can be reduced to zero, and thus reduces the peak amount of force required to accomplish that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a bicycle is landing on a downward-sloping ramp, the downward slope of the ramp will reduce (sometimes significantly) the amount of velocity the bicycle will need to shed after making contact with the terrain, to the point that one may be able to make a comfortable two-wheeled landing after falling a distance which would make a two-wheeled landing on a flat surface injurious to the rider, bicycle, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21064" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T15:26:55.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32149" CreationDate="2015-08-14T16:38:56.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem with my Trek 720 disc.  I paid for the first spoke to be repaired at a nearby bike store.  The second spoke broke approximately one month later.  I took it to the store that I bought it and they gladly repaired it for free.  The service guys agreed with me that this should not be happening.  They told me if another spoke breaks, they would contact Trek to replace the wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21067" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T16:38:56.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20975" CreationDate="2015-08-14T18:01:55.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of cogs per cassette will depend on hub compatibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 8 cogs (8 speed) you also have to make sure what ratio you want, the smallest being 11 up to 32 (largest cog closest to the wheel spoke) there's many ratios you can choose from depending on ride style. If you go anywhere larger than 28, you may need a midsize derailleur ... all this will determine your chain length too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you swap a low speed cassette for higher gears, then you probably can't use same chain as it will be too tight or too loose. Just something to keep in mind :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21070" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-15T04:52:20.047" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T04:52:20.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32693" CreationDate="2015-08-14T18:12:03.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't see the video but if your talking about the last 2 lower gears you may need to loose the tension cable. if its the top 2 big gears then you may need to tighten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;make sure you derailleur is installed correctly. make sure the last pulley lines up at all cogs especially the biggest one, using your hand and pushing this up and down the cassette, make sure it clears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;try to unbolt the cable, back out on the gears with shifter and back out the fine tune barrel adjuster located on cable/derailleur. pedal, then chain should drop to last small cog. then pull cable hand tight and screw bolt back on cable. make any fine tuning with the barrel adjuster when shifting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;those are some tips from what I would assume...maybe others can help :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21070" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T18:12:03.387" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35013" CreationDate="2015-08-14T20:22:43.870" Score="2" ViewCount="1140" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought a boardman pro 29er from Halfords (cycle to work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like it and I'm enjoying riding it for the most part however there is a noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I'm in a high gear (largest front cog, smallest back cog) and I'm at cruising speed, pedals moving but not too much force being applied I start to hear an intermittent rattly/springy sound. It's a hard noise to explain. It almost sounds like there is a loose spring tinkling against a spoke. It's a really difficult noise to pin point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've wiggled and shook everything I can get my finger on and cannot see anything loose. The only thing I noticed was the dérailleur clutch was set to the off position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan on taking it back to halfords to fix after the weekend but I just wondered if anyone had any idea what this might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21074" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T22:01:17.407" Title="Springy Rattling noise on new bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-14T23:13:20.083" Score="1" ViewCount="10537" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to do a 'gravel grind' ride with lots of elevation gain and want to be able to keep up with the cyclocross bike riders. From what I understand they have 46/36 chainrings.&#xA;My mountain bike came with 36/22 rings. 104/64 bcd crank. 10 speed cassette. I would like to run a 44/30 or 42/28. Does a 44 or 42 tooth 104bcd chainring exist that fits a 2x (and not 3x) crank?&#xA;My bike is a specialized crave. I would put on a 40t chainring or consider going to a triple crank.&#xA;Or could I put a road crankset on? My bottom bracket is 73mm gxp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20464" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T10:39:26.637" Title="what is the biggest chainring I can put on my mountain bike?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-14T23:23:20.273" Score="4" ViewCount="2266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I met a guy who mixed 23 and 25 mm for his front and rear tyre respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now thinking about it, I believe it's a pretty good idea since the rear wheel bear a higher proportion of the rider's weight. Wider rear tyres would support more weight with the same pressure as the front. It also helps reduce the wear and tear on the tyre itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why don't bicycle (especially racing) run a slightly wider tyre in the rear, as the rear wheel mostly bear the weight of rider? It makes the ride more comfortable, and not aerodynamically terrible as the front is still 23 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T09:39:34.427" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T06:37:12.950" Title="23 mm combined with 25 mm tyre in racing" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32709" CreationDate="2015-08-14T23:46:24.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Google down for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raceface.com/components/rings/rings/evolve-10speed-ring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.raceface.com/components/rings/rings/evolve-10speed-ring/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.raceface.com/components/rings/rings/evolve-10speed-ring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Evolve 10 Speed 42t outer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T23:46:24.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32714" CreationDate="2015-08-15T00:03:09.793" Score="6" ViewCount="4193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to buy an electric bike kit. However, I don't really like adding the display for aesthetic reason. However, the display (either LED or LCD) has function on/off and low/mid/high power on some model and this confuse me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just have BLDC motor, controller, battery, PAS, and brake sensor and hope it will work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T13:20:25.563" Title="Electric bike: Do I need display?" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32710" CreationDate="2015-08-15T01:54:28.897" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Racing is all about speed. 25mm tyres have a larger contact area so there is more rolling resistance than a 23mm. It doesn't make a huge difference but it is significant. You wouldn't be competitive on 25s with everyone else runnings 23s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for some very tough terrain, such as going over cobblestones, most teams will often run 25s front and back. They  also deflate slightly from the maximum pressure to avoid some of the ride harshness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started on 28mm tyres on a commuter and soon went down to 23mm. Didn't notice any difference in tyre wear or comfort. Bike was less effort to ride. Only downside is is that it is more likely to catch a rut in the road, but you ride with a bit more caution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastEditorUserId="20322" LastEditDate="2015-08-15T09:40:00.240" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T09:40:00.240" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32712" CreationDate="2015-08-15T01:54:50.877" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are building your own kit, you can do whatever the heck you want. The reason pre-built ones have them is both safety and convenience -- you want to know when the e-assist is on for safety reasons, what power mode you're in, and how much power you have left so you're not stuck on the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blinkenlights&quot;&gt;blinkenlights&lt;/a&gt;, it can be hard to diagnose problems, especially on the road. Is your e-assist not working because the battery is low or dead? A bad main power connection? Maybe the brake-cutoff switch is broken, etc. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;If you are aesthetically against the blinkenlights, you can design your own enclosure that is more modest, use dimmer LEDS or tape over them, or relocate them to make them more discrete -- perhaps under the saddle where you can still check them when problems arise.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-08-15T01:58:57.143" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T01:58:57.143" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32709" CreationDate="2015-08-15T07:59:26.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a crank that's easy to replace, like Shimano Hollowtech 2? It's actually easier to exchange those than chainrings. I usually ride a road-compact (50,34), but for long tours around the alps I exchange them for a MTB one (44,34,24). I have a non-indexed front-shifter, so I don't need to change settings. Triple crankset axis seem to be some 3mm longer than double road cranksets, don't know about double MTB - double road difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, beware that you might need to change the derailleur distance to bottom bracket - 44 chainrings are quite a big larger than 36 ones. With that comes readjusting the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, do you really need a bigger ring to keep up? I don't know your exact wheel size, but with 2m circumference at 36/11, 90 rpm you do about 35km/h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T07:59:26.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32658" CreationDate="2015-08-15T08:29:08.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ride alone you could try clip-on aerobars. With these you basically get rid of all strain on your hands and better aerodynamics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4601" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T08:29:08.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-15T09:16:12.490" Score="3" ViewCount="692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been riding my road bike for about 10k km on those pedals (shimano ultegra spd-sl) and it just so happened that the left one is now worn much more than the right one (check out photos).  You should look at the spring/cramp/lock (whatever the right word is:) ) part of the pedal, that black thing which doesn’t let the cleats pop out. Now my left pedal almost can’t hold the cleat in when pedaling , had to tighen it close to the max limit. It still holds but I don’t think it will last long. The right one, on the other hand, still does it perfectly and is almost not worn at all, after even that distance (there is no play/looseness, never tightened it yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be nice! Such wear on the left pedal – did I gauged it right that the end is nigh for it? How much more can it last possibly? Is it real to by one separate pedal  (not necessarily ultegra)? Thanks!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kh6pr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kh6pr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2p4H4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2p4H4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21081" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T03:34:36.283" Title="SPD-SL pedals uneven wear" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;wear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32710" CreationDate="2015-08-15T11:15:53.807" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bigger question is, what would be the benefits of this setup? If you are willing to sacrifice the few grams of weight and square centimeters of cross section that come with wider tires, why wouldn't you use a wider tire in the front too? The benefits at comfort, grip and possibly rolling resistance apply to front, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the bike also looks nicer if both tires are similar. And if you keep spares, the same one goes for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T11:15:53.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32764" CreationDate="2015-08-15T14:30:23.293" Score="25" ViewCount="10771" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend just told me about a relatively new bike helmet technology that reduces torsion (rotational) stress in a bike accident. My wife is a speech therapist (and I write speech therapy software) so I'm well aware that &lt;em&gt;tearing&lt;/em&gt; is more damaging than &lt;em&gt;concussive&lt;/em&gt; forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's called MIPS: Multi-directional Impact Protection System.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I'm not convinced the MIPS system actually improves on that. The only &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mipshelmet.com/folksam-helmet-test-bike-2015&quot;&gt;independent research I've seen a citation to is in swedish&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;And the next best research was on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1533/cras.2001.0162#.Vc9P5_lViko&quot;&gt;motorcycle helmets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1502" LastEditorUserId="1502" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T00:47:38.040" LastActivityDate="2018-07-15T02:51:04.457" Title="Are MIPS helmets actually any safer than standard helmets? Independent Research?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32719" CreationDate="2015-08-15T15:27:43.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oblique is a common type of impact. How would reducing torsion stress not be a good thing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you question if MIPS reduces torsion stress or if reducing torsion stress protects the brain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An oblique impact results in a rotational force to the head/brain. I would not characterize that as tearing. The brain is not a muscle.  This is a study / paper that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4090913/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the human brain is most sensitive to rotational motion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T15:27:43.700" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32722" CreationDate="2015-08-15T15:43:49.557" Score="1" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought an Eastway FB3.0 road bike (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/eastway-fb30-2014/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/eastway-fb30-2014/&lt;/a&gt;) for commuting and the pedal thread has gone on the right hand pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in thinking the only solution is to buy another crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is the crankset (SRAM 150) on the bike doesn't seem to on sale anymore. Ideally I'd like to go to a shop in the morning and buy something similar in price and fit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was to get a Shimano cranset, I assume I would also need to replace the bottom bracket. Is this possible? And is it an easy thing to replace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21086" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T15:56:23.377" Title="Pedal thread gone SRAM 150/100 chainset - what can be done?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32721" CreationDate="2015-08-15T15:56:23.377" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threaded_insert&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;helicoil&lt;/a&gt; the crankset. This is an insert which can be used to repair threading, though you need some special tools to do it. Your bike shop may or may not have this as an option. They may charge you as much as dropping in a new SRAM S100 crankset for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankset uses a Powerspline BB (which means if you to keep the BB, you're going to have to use a SRAM crankset and it seems like your only option is the SRAM S100). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can replace the bottom bracket (BB) with any &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/complete-guide-to-bottom-brackets-36660/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;conventional threaded&lt;/a&gt; type and use correspondingly compatible crank. For Shimano, you'll get a Hollowtech II bottom bracket for most mid range or higher cranks and a square taper or octalink for the lower end. Note there are other companies which you might want to look for cranks as well (e.g. FSA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike shop will be able to guide you on this depending on what they have in stock and your price range. It's an easy job to replace the crank or put in a new bottom bracket, but you need the right BB tool, a large crescent wrench and a crank puller.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T15:56:23.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-15T16:00:15.127" Score="2" ViewCount="962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done my research and i've narrowed it down to 2 options for me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1: buy a low-end cyclocross bike for $1200&#xA;or &#xA;Option 2: buy a low-end road bike for $800 and a low-end mountain bike for $400&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget is $1200&#xA;I want a bike that will allow to me ride on the road and on the rough trails.&#xA;Please don't suggest a touring or hybrid bike because i don't want the relaxed geometry. I want to go fast. &#xA;I'll be using these bikes for fitness and fun, not for commuting. &#xA;So which option would be better for me?&#xA;Would a low-end road bike be better on the road than the low-end cyclocross? &#xA;And would a low-end mountain bike be better on the trails than the low-end cyclocross bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your input&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21088" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T13:41:07.350" Title="Which option; cx bike or mtb and road bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-08-18T18:44:29.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32723" CreationDate="2015-08-15T16:45:57.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First I would not characterize a $1200 CX as low end.  Yes since they are typically sold for race the starting point is around $1200.  But overall I would not call that a low end bike.  It is going to have solid frame and mid range components.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take $1200 CX with knobby tires on the trail over $400 mountain.  Not going to have a front shock on the CX but not going the have a very good front shock on $400 mountain and low end components.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the road with same tires going be pretty close between the $1200 CX and the $800 road.  With knobby tires the CX is not going to be a good road bike but with knobby tires the road bike is not going to be a good road bike either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference here is with two bikes you have two different sets of tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own two CX and two mountain.  I ride 3 miles to the park for some technical riding the CX kills the mountain.  Most of a technical ride is not technical and the CX dominates.  In the highly technical sections yes the CX is slower but I can typically still ride the section.  At a slow speed 5 mph versus 3 mph is still just 2 mph over short period of time.  On the road the CX has 3-5 mph advantage the whole time (even with knobby on the CX).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-15T18:08:01.097" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T18:08:01.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32723" CreationDate="2015-08-15T16:57:11.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want a bike that will allow to me ride on the road and on the rough trails&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess we can't be sure what you mean by &quot;rough trails&quot;, but if you're talking about what I call &quot;rough trails&quot;, a CX bike just isn't going to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;i don't want the relaxed geometry. I want to go fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relaxed geometry and high speed often go together off-road (think DH bikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the road, a $1200 CX is not going to be as good as a $800 roadie, but that's only because of the knobby tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your best option is the road-mountain combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted one bike to do both jobs, I think a mountain bike with ~1.75&quot; semi-slicks would be better than a CX. Plus, that won't cost you $1200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A side note: No matter what you end up getting, you should buy used. You'll get much more bike for your money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T16:57:11.523" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-15T19:54:41.287" Score="0" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what to aspects to look for when buying a mountain bike headlight is for night riding on the trails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never bought one before, but I'm hoping to spend at most $50, is it possible to spend this amount and get a reasonable light, or would I have to spend more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21012" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T00:16:24.773" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T09:10:10.620" Title="What to look for in a (Cheap) MTB headlight for night trail riding" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-08-18T13:25:07.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-15T20:18:21.587" Score="4" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased an old bike and I can't quite find out which brand and model it is. I know it has an Aluminium Kinesis frame , which is pretty light . The bike weights about 9,5kg with the bottle holders and the bike saddle bag on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has the Shimano FC-1056 crankset, Shimano BR-1055 brakes , Shimano 5500 front derailleur,hubs and Shimano Ultegra RD-6500(I broke it , got a new model) with Shimano ST-6500 brifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The headset is Apollo , stem UNO Kalloy , handlebar Modolo 6QEven. The frame looks to be in a perfect shape , no bents , no scratches.The rims are Mavic CXP 30. The bottom bracket serial is : K(or H)25200227.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fdg2x.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fdg2x.png&quot; alt=&quot;cannondale road bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2R412.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2R412.png&quot; alt=&quot;Kinesis frame sticker&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the album : &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/91iba&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/91iba&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S After all the help I got from BikeWrench (which I appreciate), I decided to try my luck and search for the bike model. After 2 days of seaching, I didn't find anything. P.S.S Sorry for my english. Not my native language.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21092" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-20T22:05:04.343" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T22:05:04.343" Title="Help me ID this bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32693" CreationDate="2015-08-15T21:10:10.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After watching both videos, I believe that whatever bent the rear derailer also bent the derailer hanger, which has your rear derailer out of alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear derailer/derailleur is that complicated part you replaced that moves the chain between gears on the rear, and also keeps the chain from getting loose and falling off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most bikes, the rear derailer isn't bolted directly to the frame of the bicycle. There's a small piece of metal bolted to the frame of the bicycle, and the derailer bolts to that. That's a removable derailer hanger. Typically the hanger is a softer metal that will bend easier than the frame. It's done that way to help protect the frame from damage if something happens to the rear derailer. Some bikes that hanger is built right into the frame and can't be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably need to bend the derailer hanger back straight. Even if you replace it, new ones often need a small amount of alignment adjustment (bending). Because it's a small piece, it's difficult to bend it back straight just perfectly. In a shop, they'd use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/derailleur-hanger-alignment-gauge-dag-2-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hanger alignment tool&lt;/a&gt; which is basically a strong bar that bolts to where the derailer bolts into the hanger, has alignment gauges that are compared against the (trued) wheel, and can be used to bend the hanger back to the correct alignment. You use a large adjustable wrench, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/29599&quot;&gt;this answer suggests&lt;/a&gt;, to bend it straighter, but it's likely you'll have trouble getting it quite as perfectly aligned as your other bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an article on aligning the derailer hanger: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-hanger-alignment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the misaligned derailer indicates a bent hanger, it's also likely that your derailer high and low adjustment screws aren't set right, and/or that the cable tension is off. Those things should be adjusted after the hanger is straightened (so that the derailer is aligned perfectly like on your other bike). The adjustment screws on the derailer are small screws you use to adjust how far it will shift in either direction. The cable tension slowly goes bad over time as the cable housing compresses (&quot;cable stretch&quot;), and can be easily adjusted with a small twist of a barrel adjuster on the cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an article on adjusting almost everything else on the rear derailer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T21:10:10.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-15T22:21:20.530" Score="3" ViewCount="9386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my rear derailleur. I've been looking at a few ones on eBay, however, my issue is that the seller does not know the size of the &quot;cage&quot;. Specifically, I have a Shimano Tiagra RD-4400 that I would like to replace. On the actual derailleur it does not explicitly state the size. I can do the math with my 12-25t cassette and 30-52t 3 ring chains to know that what I currently have is a GS. But the sellers of a few of the RD-4400s I've seen on eBay don't know the cage length. Since they aren't connected to a bike, I can't estimate it based on the gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to figure it out by just looking at the derailleur? Again, I don't see it explicitly stamped on my on RD-4400 so I assume it won't be stamped on the eBay ones... Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21093" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T04:25:18.510" Title="How to find the cage length of a rear derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32658" CreationDate="2015-08-16T00:22:23.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Daniel has commented, and I agreed, you probably have a bike fit problem. We cannot be sure; the only way to find out for sure is to get a professional fitting done. Having said that there are still a few things you can try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While you say you try to adjust my hand positions, what positions do you use most?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The Allez handlebar setup is one I just would not be comfortable with: not enough drop, the straight section of the drop is too low an angle, and the hoods are too low.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  @andy256 mostly on the hoods, I don't tend to use drops very often - only for variety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several different ways of riding &lt;em&gt;on the hoods&lt;/em&gt;. Try them out if you haven't already:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the thumbs only on the hoods, palms vertical, fingers pointing forward touching the brifter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can easily operate brakes from this position.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the thumbs only on the hoods, palms vertical, wrists high, two fingers wrapped under the hoods, similar to sprinting on the hoods.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can operate brakes from this position, but not so easily.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the base of the thumb on the hoods, palms near 45°, one or two fingers touching the brifter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is a common position, but it IMO it is the one that causes such problems.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can easily operate brakes from this position.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Palms further back, with some fingers &lt;em&gt;either side&lt;/em&gt; of the &quot;horn&quot; of the brifter.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; easily operate brakes from this position.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Good for variety. Can alleviate discomfort.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Palms further forward, resting on the &quot;horn&quot;. Fingers forward, just dangling, palm horizontal.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; easily operate brakes from this position.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Good for variety, and gives more stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last two are clearly just for variety. They have obvious dangers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other positions you can use for variety. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hands at the end of the drops, arms almost straight. Your body position is not much different from having your hands on the hoods. You can't reach the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hands further forward on the drops, just touching the upward curve. This requires a different wrist position, but may be worse for you. Some people can reach the brakes, but on the Allez I don't think you will.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hands on the tops with elbows bent and tucked back beside your body. This can be uncomfortable at first but may grow on you. Your body position is still low.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Again, you're not anywhere near you brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sitting up more, with hands on the tops. Your hands can be close to the middle or wider to the corners. You'll find each position puts your wrist in a slightly different position.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Again, sitting up more, with hands on the corners. You can have your fingers pointing forward and to the inside, or have your thumbs on the bars with fingers underneath. These have very different wrist positions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And finally, if you're really into relaxed positions and don't mind a little less control, rest your wrists on the tops, with hands dangling.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are obvious dangers in this position.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These positions are not for everybody. Some don't work on a given bike, or with a given person's body. Bikes and people are all different. Try some of them and see if they help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any &lt;em&gt;on bike&lt;/em&gt; experiments, do it in a safe location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not mentioned adjusting the brifter position. On many bikes I'd try that, but I don't think that would work on the Allez. But you could rotate the bars &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; to make the hoods angle up more. 5 to 10° should be enough to have an effect. I think changing the angle is more important than lifting them (everybody has their theory).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, try taking one hand off the bars and shake it from time to time, then do it with the other hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T11:51:11.160" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T11:51:11.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32726" CreationDate="2015-08-16T00:47:35.870" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already suggested by @Batman, have a look at this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikelightdatabase.com/generic/creet6genericlight/&quot;&gt;Bike Light Database&lt;/a&gt; write up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What to look for ...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;LED - with cheap lights don't believe the claimed Lumen, Look at the LED specification - a CREE XL-M T6 or U2 are probably the one you want. There's not much difference in them, you typically get about real 600 Lumen out of the cheap lights, more expensive lights with better drivers can get a bit more. IN the end, few people need more than 600 Lumen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Lithium batteries vary enormously in capacity and price. If you buy cheap ones, expect 1/4 of claimed capacity. Buying off the likes of EBay is a crap shoot - if you want good batteries, buy locally from a reputable supply, otherwise buy cheap ones off EBay and expect to get what you pay for. Life time may be short for cheap ones, as some are known to be 'recycled' lap top batteries.  Make sure you get what is known as protected batteries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Construction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Heat is the enemy of LEDs, some cheap lights have plastic cases, so don't get the heat away, others have good alumina extrusions. They do not need fins when riding as the airflow is enough to keep them cool. Most cheap lights are not particularly  water proof - if you ride in the rain you probably want to go for better quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cheap lights come with a Silicon O ring to hold them to the bars/head-mount. It works surprisingly well, but I wonder how long the O rings will last, and getting the light and battery pack on and off the bike is not a quick task.  They will not survive a big knock and a probe to breakage, and the wires are prone to breaking internally - fixable if you are handy with a soldering iron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Expensive lights have vastly superior optics to cheap ones. Cheap ones often have a very bright center spot with little flood - great for seeing further than you car head lights, not so great in corners, especially if helmet mounts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the cheap lights on EBay (and sold in many shops), they lights may look identical, but be quite different in quality and optics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a budget of $50 my suggestion is to do what I have done - Buy a couple of cheap lights off the likes of Amazon/ EBay / Dx. One for helmet, one for bars, be prepared to buy a new battery or lamp every now an then. This gives you a spare light to get you home if one fails, typically a couple of hours each on full brightness (I run both mine on medium, giving 4 hours ride time). The major down side is optics could be a lot better. Many people live with the limitations of cheap lights and replace them as they break rather than buying some good quality ones at 10 times the price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T09:10:10.620" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T09:10:10.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32739" CreationDate="2015-08-16T14:25:32.293" Score="5" ViewCount="7395" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I do apologise if I don't get all the terminology correctly but I hope I'm still clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We bought a second-hand 18-speed bike that has a front gear system that I've not encountered before. It's called a 'microSHIFT' and it has a gradient whereby the rider needs to twist the shifter several times before a chain is moved onto a higher or a lower chainring. It's not just a matter of shifting from 1 to 2, there's several bars in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of this and how is it meant to be used correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13775" LastEditorUserId="13775" LastEditDate="2017-04-24T07:27:11.923" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T07:27:11.923" Title="microSHIFT on front gears, how does it work?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32738" CreationDate="2015-08-16T14:59:19.510" Score="2" ViewCount="1756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano BR-M445 disc brake caliper that has decided to give up on life, so I need a replacement. It seems like the BR-M445 is no longer produced, so are there other calipers that can replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T17:13:01.247" Title="What can my Shimano BR-M445 caliper be replaced with?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32737" CreationDate="2015-08-16T16:40:15.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like the BR-M445 and BR-M446 are the same/interchangeable, while the BR-M447 uses some different parts, but still has the same hose, so I assume that it is compatible as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T16:40:15.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32736" CreationDate="2015-08-16T19:01:24.573" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Microshift is a brand. They are Taiwan base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the twist shifter operates in similar manner as you described. They are for trimming as Batman said. But in fact it is made from the same machine and parts to keep the cost down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is all about how to set up the front derailleur in your system, and find a spot for each appropriate gearing. i.e. avoid chain rubbing on the front derailleur&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one thing that I like about twist shifter, is that when you shift up, you can go slightly higher than where it suppose to be on the front chainring. This helps your chain to shift up easier and faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T19:01:24.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-16T20:25:17.170" Score="2" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old bmx and my chain broke yesterday. I bought a new chain from WalMart.  It is 300 links for 1 speed but I don't know what is the bmx speed (gear); it was rusted but I fixed it up.  I left my bmx at a program that opens tomorrow but I'm afraid its the wrong chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21103" LastEditorUserId="19106" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T22:30:58.437" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T22:56:51.567" Title="How do I repair a broken chain on my old BMX bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32729" CreationDate="2015-08-17T04:18:30.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a reasonably clear photo from the seller you can measure directly. This only works because there are known-size elements in the same plane as the cage that you want to measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do is measure the derailleur you have, and count the teeth on the idler gear you'll be using as a reference just to make sure they're the same on both your one and the on you're considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a random image I chose because it has the cage flat to the plane of the picture so it's easy to discuss. If you can get the seller to take a similar photo it'll make your life easier (eg by pressing the cage flat on a table, then taking a photo looking straight down at it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2HpMc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2HpMc.png&quot; alt=&quot;rear derailleur with measurement hints&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The red lines show the size of the idler. Measure in pixels if you have an image program that shows you the length of the line you're drawing in pixels, or use a ruler on your screen if that's all you have. The yellow line is one possible option for measuring the cage length, but it's not ideal because it's going from the back side of the cage to the front, so if there's any tilt to the cage your measurement will be off. Or you could measure from the text on the cage to the edge of the bolt. But for best accuracy make the line as long as possible - measuring the text size is likely to give a huge uncertainty because there are so few pixels available (read up on quantisation noise in &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quantization_(signal_processing)#Quantization_noise_model&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onmyphd.com/?p=quantization.noise.snr&amp;amp;ckattempt=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this introduction&lt;/a&gt; if you're interested). So I'd try to use the green line instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to get four measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size of the idler you have (in millimetres or units of your choice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;size of the idler you might buy (in pixels)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;length of the cage of your derailleur (millimetres or whatever)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;length of the cage of the one you might buy (in pixels)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that you can calculate the pixels per millimetre of the idler gears, then divide by the pixel length of the cage in the picture to get the millimetre length of the pictured derailleur. Compare that to the one you have and decide if it's the right size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really concerned you could do this for the reference pictures on the Shimano website to get an idea of the lengths that are available. That way you can guess which actual derailleur is for sale, rather than possibly rounding incorrectly (eg if you calculate 100mm from the picture and the actual options are 95mm, 102mm and 115mm you can either guess it's the 102mm one or compare the pcitures more closely to get a feel for the correct choice. Without the reference pictures you're left with &quot;my one is 103mm, the seller pictures gives 100mm... that's close enough)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all substitutes effort on your part for effort from the seller, but it also means you know more about how accurate the measurement is. I find it's often easier to measure the picture than the derailleur - note that the green line crosses through the pivot in a way that a tape measure can't do. To fake that lay the tape or ruler parallel to what you want to measure and as close to it as possible while keeping it in the same plane, then take the photo. (it's probably easier to buy a cheap &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.miniphysics.com/how-to-read-a-vernier-caliper.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vernier caliper&lt;/a&gt; and learn how to use it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T04:25:18.510" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T04:25:18.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32649" CreationDate="2015-08-17T10:13:54.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your solutions have all pretty much been said, it seems to be a problem with the rim. However, instead of just checking the rim tape, check the whole inner rim to make sure there are no metal shards or other pokey things embedded in the bottom or inner walls. This happens a lot with v-brakes especially, so be aware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of brakes, I also wanted to mention that you might have a look at your own. Usually an overlooked source of the problem, brake condition/position can play a crucial role in your tyres lifespan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T10:13:54.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32747" CreationDate="2015-08-17T13:32:55.507" Score="5" ViewCount="5275" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old Magura Julie disk brake. It seams that new pads are too thick for the brake. I already tried 2 different types. But when I insert the new pads the gap between the pads is completely closed. There's no gap left for the disk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-inserting the old pads is no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there brake pads with different thicknesses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21085" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T13:36:15.393" LastActivityDate="2020-11-08T12:33:13.007" Title="Disk brake pads too thick?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32745" CreationDate="2015-08-17T14:09:27.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there brake pads with different thicknesses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. You need to reset your pistons before installing the new pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T14:09:27.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32745" CreationDate="2015-08-17T14:10:07.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you push the pistons back into the callipers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic brakes automatically adjust for pad wear and the home position of the pistons moves slightly out. When you change pads you need to gently push the pistons back in gently with something like a plastic tire lever to return the fluid to the reservoir, then pump the lever to set the correct level of adjustment for the new pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T14:10:07.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32761" CreationDate="2015-08-17T15:44:45.303" Score="10" ViewCount="3455" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Context&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to go on a solo two weeks bike trip in Europe (mid &amp;amp; east). I am planning on camping (with a 2 person tent), so will not go to any hotel. This means that I will be buying food supplies on the way. It will be my first experience of bike touring, and I am planning on visiting cities along the way. My bike equipment would look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OkoAE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OkoAE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Axiom-Modular-Grandtour-Series-On-A-Bike.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to secure/transport my bags while:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;visiting a city by foot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;going to buy groceries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy answer would be: &quot;Just take your stuff with you&quot;, but I don't feel like carrying 4 bags full of equipment + a tent. So I am wondering if there's any experience bikers out there that have tips&amp;amp;tricks for me. Cheers !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21114" LastEditorUserId="21114" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T07:34:31.287" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T21:58:44.403" Title="How to secure and transport panniers when on foot during a bike trip" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;tricks&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32760" CreationDate="2015-08-17T16:21:49.793" Score="0" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older road bike and I am looking to renovate it. The rims on my wheels are pretty thin, and I very much like the look of deeper rim wheels. Can I produce this effect without buying new wheels completely, seeing as they are kind of expensive? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I was thinking about painting my rims black as well. Would I just put two coats of black on it (right now they are original metal), or two coats of primer and then two black?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same question on the actual frame of the bike, but first I have to take off the current color there, and am interested how to go about painting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21115" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T21:49:11.057" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T21:57:19.467" Title="Renovating bike, are there addon to make the rims look thicker?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-08-18T13:26:16.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-17T16:52:34.427" Score="7" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the market for a mountain bike, and have been reading some mountain bike magazines for info.  They mention particular models as having particular &quot;inches of travel&quot;.  What exactly does this mean and what is its importance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21116" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T16:59:52.487" Title="What is meant by &quot;inches of travel&quot;?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32750" CreationDate="2015-08-17T16:59:52.487" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Inches of travel&quot; refers to how much the shocks can compress before hitting their limit. The more inches of travel the shocks have, the large an impact they can absorb. More travel does not automatically mean that one bike is better than another. Different riding styles and different trail conditions will require different amounts of travel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T16:59:52.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32633" CreationDate="2015-08-17T17:04:49.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The story is complicated and can't be confined to a couple of paragraphs.  That's why I wrote a book about it: Fat Tire Flyer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/features/pez-bookshelf-fat-tire-flyer/#.VF4e08nYf30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Repack and the Birth of Mountain Biking.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21117" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T17:04:49.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32758" CreationDate="2015-08-17T17:24:57.913" Score="27" ViewCount="5329" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a recent Sunday ride on a country road, I was slowly overtaken by a group of (5) guys on road bikes. They were &quot;proper&quot; road cyclists, if you know what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they passed me, I just slipped in behind them and drafted for about 5 miles until we parted ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to keep a low profile. I didn't have trouble keeping up with them, but I didn't &quot;take a turn at the front&quot; because I wasn't sure I was welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They didn't seem to acknowledge my presence at all (which was fine with me), except for one guy who cast a glance at my bike (a mtb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this acceptable behavior? I sure wouldn't mind, but I'm not a religious roadie :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="14375" LastEditDate="2017-03-25T16:15:00.523" LastActivityDate="2017-03-25T16:15:00.523" Title="It it impolite to &quot;informally&quot; join or draft a group of cyclists?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;&lt;drafting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32749" CreationDate="2015-08-17T17:31:03.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have an older road bike and I am looking to renovate it. The frames&#xA;  on my wheels are pretty thin, and I very much like the look of thicker&#xA;  frame wheels, can I produce this effects without buying new wheels&#xA;  completely, seeing as they are kind of expensive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer:&lt;/strong&gt; No. There is no product out there to make a rim look wider. Just wider rims. Which may or may not fit your bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you tell us what size tires you have, &lt;strong&gt;provide the make &amp;amp; model of the bike &amp;amp; maybe some pictures&lt;/strong&gt; of the frame where the tires run closest, we may be able to advise you as to whether or not you can fit wider tires. Also, I am assuming that when you say “frames on my wheels” you mean the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don’t paint the wheels.&lt;/strong&gt; First of all if you have rim brakes (most likely) the paint will damage the bikes ability to slow effectively while braking &amp;amp; would eventually be rubbed off by the brakes anyway. Also, after a few miles with maybe a little gravel or road debris, the paint will chip &amp;amp; look trashy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As for painting the frame&lt;/strong&gt;, if you can afford to, you should really consider having it professionally &lt;strong&gt;powder coated&lt;/strong&gt;. Even a well done spray can job will scratch easily &amp;amp; not last anywhere near as long as a powder coat job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on painting it yourself, either sand blast the original finish off &amp;amp; then clean with an evaporating residue free solvent, or at the very least remove any and all decals or stickers, clean with solvent, roughly sand the entire surface, clean with solvent again &amp;amp; then paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T17:31:03.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32753" CreationDate="2015-08-17T17:47:09.213" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those who subscribe to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Rule 19: Introduce Yourself&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you deem it appropriate to join a group of riders who are not part of an open group ride and who are not your mates, it is customary and courteous to announce your presence. Introduce yourself and ask if you may join the group. If you have been passed by a group, wait for an invitation, introduce yourself, or let them go. The silent joiner is viewed as ill-mannered and Anti-V. Conversely, the joiner who can’t shut their cakehole is no better and should be dropped from the group at first opportunity.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Rule 67: Do your time in the wind&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody likes a wheel sucker. You might think you’re playing a smart tactical game by letting everyone else do the work while you sit on, but races (even Town Sign Sprints) are won through cooperation and spending time on the rivet, flogging yourself and taking risks. Riding wheels and jumping past at the end is one thing and one thing only: poor sportsmanship.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T17:47:09.213" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32753" CreationDate="2015-08-17T18:18:52.800" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it was a very casual interaction. There's nothing wrong with what you did, but it would have been more polite to say hi and ask if they minded you drafting them for a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in a casual situation like that, be careful not to interfere with their rotation or their pace. IE, if you're not going to take a turn at the front, drop back a little when the guy coming back from the front is even with the rider ahead of you, so he knows immediately that he'll be slipping in ahead of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, if you're careful, you're good for their pace. The last rider, riding right on the wheel of the rider in front of him, extends that rider's (and thus the whole paceline's) airflow bubble and thus reduces the effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You benefit more, of course, but there is a proven and measurable &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.exploratorium.edu/cycling/aerodynamics2.html&quot;&gt;benefit to the rider in front of you&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's just a casual ride, the final answer is yes. If they're clearly a team and are in an event or even doing just some organized training, then no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never hurts to introduce yourself and ask, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21118" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T18:18:52.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32541" CreationDate="2015-08-17T18:56:42.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spokes breaking at the hub can be an indication that when the wheel was built the builder did not stress relieve the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See Sheldon Brown's &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stress-relieving.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article on stress relieving&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T18:56:42.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32753" CreationDate="2015-08-17T19:10:23.997" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be considered &quot;impolite&quot; by roadies, but not because of the bike you were riding or the fact you didn't take a pull (although I am sure some will argue for this).  The main reason random drop-in riders are generally frowned upon are because of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the dangers associated with unpredictability of a new rider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lack of insurance coverage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Potential Unpredictability&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New riders can behave unpredictable especially in a pace line.  In the same way, groups can  behave differently than you might expect even if you are an experienced road rider.  Jumping into a group without knowing what they are doing can lead to unanticipated behaviours which may or may not result in a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the groups perspective, they don't know if you are a stable rider or if you will try to ride too close and clip a tire.  They don't know if you will block one of them when they try to rotate their positions.  &lt;strong&gt;You are a complete unknown who has just shown up.&lt;/strong&gt;  Most people are suspicious of unknown factors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likely they have also spent a lot of time training.  Maybe they are racers.  Maybe they are getting ready for a charity ride.  It doesn't really matter.  The last thing they want is to get taken out by someone looking for a quick draft or thrill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Anecdotal Experience - Collision&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was starting to get ready for for cyclo-cross a few years back in August and part of my route was on the road with a transition to some local trails.  On the transition from road to dirt I usually hopped off the road to the shoulder, scrubbed about 10 km/hr in order to make a sharp turn on to the trails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the road I was in my drops plugging away on an interval when unbeknownst to me someone on a road bike had snuck up behind and was drafting me (my road section began at the bottom of a hill so I suspect this played a big role with suddenly picking up a rider). I was pushing hard on the flat so I suspect he was drafting tightly. When I sat up, to get ready to transition onto the shoulder, he collided into by back wheel.  I hadn't hit the brakes yet, but he must have been drafting me tight enough that simply letting off the throttle was enough to cause a collision.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily we were both ok. I was livid that he was drafting me without notice and bent my wheel.  He was livid that I didn't continue my pull to where he figured I should finish (at the very end of the road).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This belies the danger of an uninvited riders. &lt;strong&gt;NO COMMUNICATION&lt;/strong&gt; had occurred between either of us as a result there was an unanticipated maneuver which lead to an accident.  &lt;strong&gt;NO COMMUNICATION&lt;/strong&gt; while riding in close proximity is dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Insurance&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a number of years I was on the board of directors and/or running a large cycling club in western Canada.  Insurance, believe it or not, is an important consideration for a club.  We can't hold training rides or other official club events without it.  One of the Caveats is that &lt;strong&gt;everyone on the ride must be properly insured&lt;/strong&gt;. For a new rider this can mean signing a one-time insurance form.  For other riders it can mean belonging to either our club or another club and being a member of the local cycling licensing organization.  If an incident happens and someone is injured (I have attended many  ambulance visits over the years from group ride mishaps) and it is caused by a rider that showed up uninvited this could void the insurance coverage.  &lt;strong&gt;We would have to prove that you were not invited, and that we didn't mess up our insurance forms with respect to your unofficial attendance&lt;/strong&gt;.  If people are recovering from injuries the last thing we all want is to deal with lawyers and a court-of-law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;We are not deliberately unfriendly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the above reasons &lt;strong&gt;may seem very unfriendly&lt;/strong&gt;, this is not the intended effect, it is just the consequence of the world we live in.  If you are interested in attending a club ride, contact one of your local clubs (a quick internet search away).  You will likely find that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most clubs will have a relaxed &quot;C&quot; group where you will be taught&#xA;the ropes.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They will be able to go over group etiquette and how the group works. For example:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;where we double up pace line;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;where we single up pace line;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;average speed;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how the group should operate around traffic signage; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how to point out obstacles and road hazards to drafting riders; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;riding route&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most will not care what bike that you ride.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And finally, they can ensure you have filled out the proper insurance forms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T19:10:23.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32749" CreationDate="2015-08-17T21:57:19.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm only going to answer your first question here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The rims on my wheels are pretty thin, and I very much like the look of deeper rim wheels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't easily fake deeper rimes to get the carbon fibre aero look. What you could do is use plastic film or disc to fake a complete carbon disc wheel. This would have all the disadvantages of a disc wheel (fragile, vulnerable to cross winds) but also much of the aero advantages of one. It will still be a cheap, heavy wheel, but it will have less air resistance. Many people have done this in the past. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=selvb85s4XU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Youtube tutorial&lt;/a&gt; plus &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/The_ultimate_DIY_disc_wheel_cover_how-to_thread._P3552095/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a webpage&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://midwesttrilife.blogspot.com.au/2013/07/diy-aero-wheel-cover-tutorial.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that many of those DIY efforts cover the braking surface of the rim, so you no longer have a brake on the covered wheel. That might not be legal where you live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T21:57:19.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32748" CreationDate="2015-08-17T22:08:19.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use two different strategies for the short and long absences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;visiting a city by foot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'll be away from the bike for a long time I take the valuable stuff (cash, id, small tool kit, phone, charger, camera) and leave everything else. If I'm in a formal camping area or in a secluded location I'll leave the tent pitched and my sleeping bag and clothing inside the tent. In most of Europe you should be able to do this if you're officially camping, but seclusion seems unlikely (in Australia and NZ we have public wilderness areas where there are few people, so camping where no-one goes is possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm not camping or otherwise need to leave the gear with my bike I'll look for somewhere that I can lock the whole thing in a room. Either the luggage area of a train or bus station, a backpackers or hotel, or a bike shop. Those will generally cost a small amount of money, but it's cheaper than losing easily-removed stuff or discovering that someone has opened everything up and left what they don't want scattered all over the place (has happened to a customer in India).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;going to buy groceries&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For short absences I usually just take my chances. I lock my bike using a small D lock and leave it (I have pitlocks so the wheels are locked to the frame, so that's fairly easy). However, unlike the picture above I tie/strap my panniers onto the bike using bungee cords/ocky straps. That reduces load wobbling while I'm riding and makes things less likely to fall off the bike, but it also means that actually opening the panniers is slower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will try to park the bike where I can see it, and if it looks as though there's space in a supermarket or mall I will wheel the bike inside and lock a wheel to immobilise it in the actual shop. I've occasionally been stopped from doing that and I just politely accept and park it outside, but more often staff just look at my bike and accept me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I also have a vaguely-related technique that I use mostly for city-fringe camping and once in the wilderness when I left my bike for several days. Since I usually sleep in a hammock and carry a few lengths of lightweight rope, I can if necessary hoist everything up a tree. I'll tie my luggage and/or bike to the rope, climb some distance up a tree and haul the stuff up, then lock it to the tree. Even fewer people will notice it if it's above head height, but it takes time and is hard work to do (lifting significant weight using a 3mm line is hard on my hands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/32776/7044&quot;&gt;As @jqning reminds&lt;/a&gt; me below there are metal mesh wraps you can buy that might help here (I have too much to say for a comment). I've only used those for backpacks, and my experience was sufficiently poor that I gave the thing away after one trip. While it might have worked as a theft deterrent, it was sharp, bulky and hard to use. Packing it was problematic, as it had to be folded carefully then stored in a bag to protect the rest of my stuff from the sharp metal edges. It was the size of my stove, only less useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT on a bike that might be less relevant. When touring I'm willing to carry more weight than a backpacker will, and I have spare nooks and crannies on my bike where the ugliness of the shape doesn't matter. You could hang the mesh bag across the front or your handlebars, cram the wrapped mesh in behind your seat tube or under your rack, and so on. The way it would be accessible when you want it but not in the way the rest of the time. With care you could not only draw the bag tight and lock it, you could put your bike lock through it to prevent someone just removing the whole &quot;locked&quot; bundle. The problem might be locking the bag around your panniers, as they're usually designed as drawstring bags and they're not big enough to close around a whole bike. So you'd be drawing it tight around the rear half of the bike, or taking all your panniers off and locking them inside the bag nearby. Or using one per pannier. Still, I think it's worth considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T03:17:30.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32748" CreationDate="2015-08-17T22:08:26.403" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt you will find any way of making the bike secure enough to leave alone for hours on end.  Perhaps you could somehow fit solid motorbike panniers, but they would be awfully heavy and inconvenient when you do have to remove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When buying groceries you basically have the choice of taking the bags with you or leaving them on the bike.  What I do depends on the situation.  Sometimes I'll put the panniers in a supermarket trolley and push them about the store. Sometimes in the countryside I'll go in a shop to buy some snacks and not even bother to lock the bike.  But I &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; have my valuables in the handlebar bag and that always comes with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for wandering around the city, I would recommend you take a rest day and spend that one night in a hotel or hostel and leave the bike and bags with them.  You'll be able to relax without worrying about your stuff and you'll have earned the hot shower and bed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T22:08:26.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31369" CreationDate="2015-08-18T01:17:02.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On mechanical disk brakes it is pretty common that the caliper is broken: the spring inside it just slipping when enough power applied (yet this power not enough to brake).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is easy to check it: push the brake lever and look what is released there: the cable from the nut, or the caliper itself jumps back.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Probably you should replace the caliper.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;New calipers coming with new pads, so it's a good time to clean up the disk with a good degreaser and maybe a sandpaper to save the new pads from all its garbage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2018-04-03T19:33:56.487" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T19:33:56.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32719" CreationDate="2015-08-18T03:40:46.180" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Research into brain injuries has been ongoing, but tended to focus more on direct impacts. In the last 70 years there has been more research into rotational brain injuries, and in the 1990s and 2000s scientific, evidence based proposals were made to reduce these. The Multi-Directional Impact ­Protection System is an implementation of these, and it's effectiveness has been validated by independent research. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Discussion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is lots of research into brain injury. While much of it has focused on direct impact leading to scull fracture, the effects of sudden head rotation have been studied since the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/Pdf/esv/esv22/22ESV-000263.pdf&quot;&gt;1940s&lt;/a&gt;. These (pay-walled papers) are typical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jbiomech.com/article/0021-9290%2884%2990014-9/abstract&quot;&gt;A study on rotational brain injury (1984)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jbiomech.com/article/0021-9290%2890%2990029-3/abstract&quot;&gt;Physical model simulations of brain injury in the primate (1990)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such studies progressed to proposals, such as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jbiomech.com/article/0021-9290%2892%2990231-O/abstract&quot;&gt;A proposed tolerance criterion for diffuse axonal injury in man (1992)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/Pdf/esv/esv22/22ESV-000263.pdf&quot;&gt;KINEMATIC ROTATIONAL BRAIN INJURY CRITERION (BRIC) (2011)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[In] 2008 ... Swedish neurosurgeon Hans Von Holst, along with mechanical engineer Peter Halldin, developed a new technology called MIPS (Multi-Directional Impact ­Protection System). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of (non independent) articles are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kth.se/en/aktuellt/nyheter/new-helmet-technology-reduces-brain-injury-1.299392&quot;&gt;New Helmet Technology Reduces Brain Injury&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cerebrovortex.com/2012/12/24/mips/&quot;&gt;MIPS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mips has been received with acclaim&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicycling.com/training/health-injuries/precious-protection&quot;&gt;Precious Protection (2010)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2014/05/23/bicycle-helmets.aspx&quot;&gt;Senseless: An In-Depth Look at the State of Bicycling Helmet Technology (2014)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has been at least one study of their effectiveness &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23770518&quot;&gt;Angular Impact Mitigation system for bicycle helmets to reduce head acceleration and risk of traumatic brain injury. (2013)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This found &lt;em&gt;a 34% reduction in peak angular acceleration&lt;/em&gt; and predicts &lt;em&gt;that AIM helmets reduced the risk of concussion [by] 44%&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But not everyone is convinced regarding helmet effectiveness. For a helmet skeptic's view see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclehelmets.org/1039.html&quot;&gt;Cycle helmets and rotational injuries&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The views expressed here are out of date, but it's the only skeptical view I found regarding rotational brain injuries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly, more independent validation would be good, and in future better designs could appear. At present MIPS seems to set the brain protection benchmark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T05:42:16.673" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T05:42:16.673" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T04:36:03.400" Score="3" ViewCount="3551" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a lovely Surly touring frame and I simply stuck all of my mountain bike components on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means I've retained a flat handlebar. I'd really like to stick drop bars on though and change to road &quot;brifters&quot; without changing the drive train. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried Googling this and it seems to be complex issue so any advice would be most welcome. I have Shimano Alivio gears, front and rear plus a Shimano Diore crank (with the external bottom bracket type). The rear is a 9-speed cassette (11-30) while the Diore triple crank is a 48-36-26. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really want to stick with this, not just because of the expense of buying a whole new drive train but also this set up gives me a really low bottom gear (30 on rear 26 on front) for getting up hills with a fully laden touring bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand I may need a new front derailleur but I may be able to get away with keeping the rear derailleur and using a ten-speed brifter such as a Tiagra with the 9-speed cassette. Is this right? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21125" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T05:30:03.290" LastActivityDate="2020-06-08T21:15:47.443" Title="Road Brifters with MTB Derailleurs" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T04:38:03.397" Score="2" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Hero Cyclone bicycle that is a single speed. Can I add gears to it? If so, can anyone suggest me a good gear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21126" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T07:09:49.053" Title="Gears for Hero Cyclone" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T04:48:10.607" Score="3" ViewCount="12183" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a Diadora Orbita bike from SportChek. As I was riding it my front derailleur got bent and now I can't use my pedals. So, my question is, can I remove the Shimano FD-TY18 front derailleur without unlinking the chain? I don't have a chain breaker, so my only option seems to be to remove the derailleur without unlinking the chain. Is it possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21127" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T06:49:08.830" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T20:20:16.133" Title="Remove front derailleur without breaking chain" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32767" CreationDate="2015-08-18T05:47:08.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pictures I've found of the FD-TY18 look like the pin across the rear of the cage is riveted in place. So, you probably can't remove it without a bit of work – through if the derailleur is damaged beyond repair it probably won't be too hard to either pry it apart (try holding with a screwdriver and twisting one side with pliers) or to cut it (and do double check that there isn't a screw there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before you do all of that, check your chain carefully. Many chains these days are connected with a master link which makes it easy to split the chain without special tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T15:15:07.717" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T15:15:07.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32765" CreationDate="2015-08-18T05:55:06.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any problem with doing this on your bike if you use Shimano drifters. Generically there are two areas you'll need to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The actuation ratio of the shifters, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brake pull.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano 9-speed road and mountain derailers use the same actuation ratio. You should be OK here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't mention which Surly touring frame you have so I can't be specific, but if its a Long Haul Trucker or Disc Trucker, your odds are good that the brakes will be compatible as well. With cantilevers you'll be OK as road and mountain versions use the same pull. V brakes will be a problem, they are not common on road bikes and the pull is different. I don't think know of a set of brifters for V-brakes. Similarly with discs, make sure that you are have, or are willing to switch, to road discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T15:12:08.900" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T15:12:08.900" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13439" CreationDate="2015-08-18T06:02:38.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For shorter stem presta valves in deep rims the trick to fill air is to first deflate the tyre about 50%, then push the pump head onto the stem with one hand while at the same time pushing the stem through the rim from the tyre side with your other hand. Then use the lever to get a good seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you pump it up, the increase in pressure in the head of the pump will depress the presta valve on its own. As Daniel Hicks said in a comment in this thread:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is no need to depress the stem in a Presta valve, since air&#xA;  pressure will open the valve when the pump develops more pressure than&#xA;  is inside the tire. All that's necessary is to briefly tap the stem&#xA;  before putting on the chuck, to make sure that the rubber gasket is&#xA;  not stuck closed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21129" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T13:10:31.430" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T13:10:31.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32766" CreationDate="2015-08-18T06:02:41.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you cannot. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.herocycles.com/cyclone#.VdLIQ7PPHtQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hero Cyclone&lt;/a&gt; does not appear to have a hanger / mounting holes for a dérailleur. You may be able to install an internal gear hub, but it would likely cost far more than the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may be able to find something used though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T06:02:41.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32772" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T06:27:03.040" Score="4" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to track down a dragging sound from some Avid BB-7 brakes on a Kona Sutra. The hub is a Shimano Alfine DH-S501 dynamo hub with an SM-RT82 Centerlock disc. The noise sounds like a dragging pad, but, so far, I've been unable to make it go away. Here's what I've done so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trued the rotor – runout is &amp;lt; 0.05 mm measured using a dial indicator on the rotor in a truing stand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aligned caliper to the rotor by loosening the caliper mounting bolts, then tightening the adjusters to clamp the rotor between the pads, and finally retorting the mounting bolts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Checked pad thickness (wear limit), the pads are tapered, the thickness is about 3.6 mm at the outside of the rotor and about 4.0 mm at the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Checked the hub bearings – the disc side locknut was loose, but the cones seem to be well adjusted. In the truing stand I can cause about 0.1 mm of deflection at the disc with lateral pressure at the rim. That doesn't &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; excessive…&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was looking at the brakes, I noticed that the pads seem to be closer to the rotor at the outside (like their resting configuration is 'V' shaped). As I adjust the pads I start to hear dragging sounds well before the brake travel is reasonable (the lever will go all the way to the bars, and I can move the wheel by hand when the lever is bottomed out). There seems to be a reasonable (i.e., way more than the runout in the disc) amount of space between the pads and the disc where I can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed that the pads themselves do not sit parallel in the caliper. With the adjusters backed all the way out, I can get one side or the other to sit against the frame of the caliper, but the other is slightly angled. It seems like the spring is not pushing out evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas about what I should do next? Should the pads be tapered / sit in a 'V'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T21:39:41.830" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T01:03:38.577" Title="Troubleshooting Noise from Avid BB-7 Road Disc Brakes" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32723" CreationDate="2015-08-18T06:35:35.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go for the 1200 CX bike.  Reasons for this I would give:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can swap the wheels/tyres on a CX bike and its effectively a road bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With CX tyres on you can ride the majority of the off-road terrain you'll come across&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A $400 MTB is unlikely to be very good, unless you find a second hand bargain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MTB's are terrible on road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've got a CX bike which I ride on-road in the winter, and would definitely recommend them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21130" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T06:35:35.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32767" CreationDate="2015-08-18T10:58:06.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very easy!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Get a good cutter and slice the derailleur cage. (Without a picture can't say it for sure, but I bet your derailleur isn't repairable if it bent so much that it prevent your crank movement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T10:58:06.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32748" CreationDate="2015-08-18T12:53:10.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A company called Pacsafe makes a steel mesh web/net that fits around a backpack and can be used to lock it down. You might find a shape that works for your stuff. It's more of a deterrent than a guarantee but it's a worthy solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link with a good picture. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://m.rei.com/product/709207/pacsafe-55-security-web-small&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://m.rei.com/product/709207/pacsafe-55-security-web-small&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T12:53:10.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32723" CreationDate="2015-08-18T13:41:07.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer depends in large part on what type of riding you will be doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the road, are you planning to join local group rides? If so, what pace do they ride? When you say &quot;rough trails&quot;, do you mean rocky/rooty singletrack?  Or, poorly maintained gravel roads?  How much elevation is there in your area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would pick a cyclocross bike that has clearance for 40mm or 45mm tires.  Something like a Salsa Vaya or Warbird.  The Vaya is listed as an &quot;adventure touring&quot; bike, but has ample tire clearance, drop bars, and should serve well for a mix of terrain.  The Warbird is Salsa's gravel race bike.  Lighter weight, more aggressive geometry, but still enough tire clearance for moderate single-track, gravel, and pavement.  The Warbird is a bit out of you price range, but you should be able to find a 2015 on clearance, or something similar used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21022" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T13:41:07.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30683" CreationDate="2015-08-18T13:43:47.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the fork was non-functional or stuck.  Simply greasing the uppers isn't going to resolve the problem - you likely need to rebuild the entire shock assembly, replacing seals, lubricating internal parts, etc.  Every fork is a bit different, so you'll need to find service instructions for the specific manufacturer/model you own.  Or, have the local bike shop do it - it shouldn't be more than a few hours labor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21022" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T13:43:47.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30644" CreationDate="2015-08-18T13:57:16.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would return the fork for a refund.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other responses are correct - a basic rebuild will likely solve any problem.  That's easy enough to do yourself.  And also cost effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, this fork is used, you don't know it's history, and you aren't experienced with servicing forks. There could be damaged internal components; replacing parts that are not included in a basic rebuild kit can get costly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21022" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T13:57:16.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25282" CreationDate="2015-08-18T14:54:50.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now have about 100 miles (160 KM) towing my &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/27234&quot;&gt;17 foot canoe behind my bike&lt;/a&gt; all of it with the hitch mounted to the seat post. I have been averaging about 5 - 6 miles per hour for distances of up to 15 miles (24 KM) on mostly straight and level trails (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rail_trail&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rail to trail&lt;/a&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been occasional tight turns, and narrow areas. I do NOT have brakes on the trailer/canoe.  The hitch location has not caused any significant issues.  On one occasion, the canoe tipped over (&lt;em&gt;pushed over by coming to close to a pole when I was learning&lt;/em&gt;) and the bike was not unmanageable during the event, I stopped, got off, tipped the canoe back on it's wheels, continued on my journey.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the rig is so long, I have to approach sharp corners slowly, so no real opportunity for side pressure there. On the occasionally down hill coast, I have used the bike brakes to keep speeds below about 10 miles per hour.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my application; long load and relatively high (100 pounds / 45 KG) tow weight, without brakes, keeps the prudent speed below any point where the higher hitch point would be a concern.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I can't speak to other scenarios (&lt;em&gt;Mσᶎ has a fine answer&lt;/em&gt;), for a bike towing a canoe, the high hitch point has not been a concern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14181" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T14:54:50.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30801" CreationDate="2015-08-18T18:21:08.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before you do anything else, confirm that the axle is properly seated in the dropouts. Unless the dropouts are resting solidly on the axle on both sides the wheel will be slightly cocked and it is likely that the disc will drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Working on a bike stand it is particularly challenging to get the wheel properly into place – you need about three hands to hold the wheel in place and adjust the skewer or tighten the nuts on the axle. So it could be that you've got it right, but the bike shop had the wheel slightly off when they adjusted the brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to check is to briefly take the bike off the stand and with the bike resting on the ground loosen and the reclamp the skewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everything is right (as far as you can tell) I'd be inclined to take the bike back to the shop and have them check it over. When you do be sure to remove and replace the wheel to confirm that it stays right this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T18:21:08.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7658" CreationDate="2015-08-18T18:22:50.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would always go with panniers or a handlebar bag before loading my body up. I live in Woodland Park Colorado where there are only uphills and downhills. I can assure that any weight put on my person will be felt on a climb! I used to commute to work, it was an 800 foot climb in about 3 miles. Nothing extreme, however, it taught me very quickly to put my trash on the bike, not in a backpack. Out of the saddle and in the saddle performance improved dramatically once i figured out how to mount my trash on the bike. No more sore hands, lower back or shoulders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21140" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T18:22:50.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T18:39:07.607" Score="4" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a few days now, when trying to pedal standing, my pedals become very rigid and it sounds like if the brakes are dragging. If I sit down again, the noise goes away and it's easy to pedal again.&#xA;In fact, if I just try to apply more pressure to the pedals to go faster, the problem happens again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that the brakes were the problem so I adjusted them and I know they are not dragging.&#xA;The chain and gears are well lubricated.&#xA;I'm trying to fix this by myself so I can learn. Can you help me to figure out what the problem is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21141" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T21:21:55.623" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T21:21:55.623" Title="Bicycle is harder to pedal when standing" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;noise&gt;&lt;brake-noise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32783" CreationDate="2015-08-18T19:23:20.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that your rear end is flexing and either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear rim is touching the brake pad, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tire is rubbing the chainstay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the former, try checking your wheel alignment and loosing your brakes a bit (safely) and testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the latter, look for tire rub marks in your chainstay area where the chainstay meets the bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17316" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T19:23:20.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32783" CreationDate="2015-08-18T20:01:13.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something is dragging as you pedal harder. The most likely thing is that your rear wheel is moving so that the tire drags against the chain stay when you apply power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something that you'll probably need to troubleshoot when you're riding because it isn't likely to show up with the bike on a work stand. You might be able to make it happen by applying a standing load to the pedals while holding the front brake. To do this I'd want somebody holding the bars to stabilize the bike (and to help me look for what moves when I load the chain).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interesting thing about what's happening is that you say the problem goes away when you ease up. If the problem is due to the tire rubbing on the chain stay then there must be some mechanism to return the wheel to its neutral location. The only thing that I can think of right now that might do this is a nutted rear axle where the nut on the right (drive) side is loose enough to allow the axle to move under load and then move back when the load eases up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T20:01:13.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1210" CreationDate="2015-08-18T20:14:01.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;https://strava.zendesk.com/entries/20420292-How-are-Strava-climbs-categorized-For-Rides-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava climbs&lt;/a&gt; there is an objective categorization that is length in meters times grade in percent, with this categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;score = length(m) * grade(%)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cat 3&lt;/strong&gt;: score &gt; 16000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cat 2&lt;/strong&gt;: score &gt; 32000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cat 1&lt;/strong&gt;: score &gt; 64000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cat HC&lt;/strong&gt;: score &gt; 80000&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;strong&gt;Alpe d'Huez&lt;/strong&gt; has a length of 13800m and average gradient of 8.1% (according to Wikipedia), giving a score of 111780, which would place it as a HC climb since its score is way above 80000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21143" LastEditorUserId="21143" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T15:56:43.763" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T15:56:43.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32767" CreationDate="2015-08-18T20:20:16.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've got a Shimano chain it's unlikely that you've got a master link as most Shimano chains come with a one-time use connecting pin. You can pop this back out with a chain tool. It's not practical to easily remove it without the tool. You can replace with a kmc missing link (make sure you match it for the right chain) for easy disassembly in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6/7/8 speed chains may just use regular pins which can be manipulated carefully with a chain tool and pins can be reused if not pushed completely out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the derailleur is riveted closed, you won't be able to take it off the bike without breaking the chain or destroying the derailleur.  If you're going to replace it, then you'll need to break the chain anyway to put the new derailleur on.  So if that's the case, then just buy a chain tool and new derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're willing to play with it a bit, you might be able to bend the front derailleur cage back in to place. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to flatten out any kinks and try and bend it back to the right shape. I've done this a couple times after some poor footwork had me kicking the front derailleur cage. It may work, it may not, it may take some tweaking, but it might save you the hassle of replacing it (or at least make your bike rideable till you can get it fixed proper). No guarantee this will work in your case as I'm not sure how bad the bend is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't ride without chain rub after trying to bend it back, you're better off replacing the front derailleur. Get a bike shop to help you if you don't have the tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T20:20:16.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T21:46:53.807" Score="5" ViewCount="2424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to sort out pad dragging / noises in Avid BB-7 mechanical disc brakes and I'm wondering how much runout in the rotor is acceptable? Right now I have about 0.05 mm (measured with a Park DT-3i).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T11:15:22.530" Title="How much runout is acceptable in a disc brake rotor?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32791" CreationDate="2015-08-19T01:33:06.493" Score="15" ViewCount="10027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just replaced the tube on my bike and when I pumped it the valve wasn't particularly straight as can be seen in the image below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3AYQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D3AYQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valve image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm wondering is do I need to remove the tube and straighten it before use? I assume it wouldn't be any harm to do so but if there is nothing wrong with the way it is I'll save myself the effort. I'm going to be cycling it in the morning so I said I better ask before I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21146" LastActivityDate="2020-07-27T21:38:44.090" Title="Does the valve have to be straight when replacing a tube?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;valves&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32790" CreationDate="2015-08-19T01:54:49.110" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be straight out, perpendicular to the rim. Otherwise you risk damaging the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the valve stem is at an angle the valve isn't free in the hole – it is trapped by the edges of the hole where they bind the stem. The edges of the hole may cut the stem which will be moving a little bit as the tire and tube flex over bumps and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will also be an area of the tube that isn't supported by the rim (or that is stretched more than the rest of the tube) near the valve stem. That area is likely to be a weak point in the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one more thing! As pointed out in the comments below, there are conditions – such as the tire moving on the rim – that are likely to further stress the tube as it passes through the valve hole. If the valve is initially straight any angle of the valve is an immediate sign that something is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T13:41:39.770" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T13:41:39.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32790" CreationDate="2015-08-19T01:56:15.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Straighten it. All you have to do is let the air out, push the valve in straight and then re-inflate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may damage the tube near the base of the valve if you leave it as is when the tire takes a hit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T01:56:15.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5745" CreationDate="2015-08-19T02:02:07.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am currently running a Trek Superfly 5, with some cheapy 700cX43mm &#xA;hybrid tires at about 80 psi.  It has a lock out front fork with&lt;br&gt;&#xA;100mm of travel and disk brakes for handling. It is running a 3 by 10&#xA;gear set that is a little slow for road biking but will climb over&lt;br&gt;&#xA;anything (especially with some low pressure knobbies). The bars are a&#xA;little wide for road use but other than that is seems to make a great&#xA;commuter vehicle. It rolls well over any terrain I will encounter. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is a versatile machine: lock the front for the road; unlock&lt;br&gt;&#xA;the fork for grass fields,sidewalks,and nasty roads. All I need to do to&#xA;make this a super fun trail bike is a simple tire switch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The most important deciding factor is the tires. What I am essentially riding is a hybrid with high end components and this&lt;br&gt;&#xA;is because of a simple tire change. Anything from your CX to a&lt;br&gt;&#xA;hybrid to a XC 29er will likely do what you want. The question is &#xA;how road or trail specialized you want to go in the geometries.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The speed on road or trail is mostly just a matter of tire&lt;br&gt;&#xA;choices. (The XC29er has the most wheel choices though.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My vote goes to the 29er.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is 2015 though so things in the MTB world has come a long way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21148" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T02:02:07.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32794" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T04:07:29.567" Score="5" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking online at &lt;a href=&quot;https://citywood.ca/product/paris-saddle-complete/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a wooden road saddle&lt;/a&gt; and it looks pretty sweet but not sure how comfortable it's going to be... The description says it's made from maple wood and designed to flex, so it sounds like it should be a decent ride. But, it's wood.. so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have experience with a saddle before? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21150" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T01:12:05.767" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T01:12:05.767" Title="Does anyone have experience with wooden saddles?" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5734" CreationDate="2015-08-19T06:05:43.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of motorcycle racers use lady's panty-liner pads on their foreheads to minimize sweat dripping down. It could work with a bicycle helmet, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The helmet pads are otherwise almost the same cheap fabric they use for headliners in cars. Buy a few Velcro dots and make your own replacements, or a generic pad set from China for $2.69 on eBay. The pads might not line up perfectly with the vent holes, but as long as they create a slight airspace between your sweaty head and the Styrofoam helmet, it doesn't matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes foam weatherstripping they use for doors works, too. I used some to create air channels at the top on one of my helmets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21152" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T06:45:49.470" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T06:45:49.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32788" CreationDate="2015-08-19T08:52:08.990" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually replace my disk brake pads when I have 0.5 mm thickness. The reason I do that is because they can easily be smashed by the jaws to remove the braking material ( which will eventually fall apart ). After that it will result in a friction between the disk and the metal of the pads, which is very very bad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I change the disk when it stops braking when I use a new disk brake pads. But for the thickness I should say that It depends how much are you loading them. As you say above disk with thickness of 0.05 mm is very hardcore ;).&#xA;You should really think of replacing that thin disk, because it can really surprise you when it breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17257" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T12:51:34.717" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T12:51:34.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30835" CreationDate="2015-08-19T09:09:56.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, for one thing I would suggest trying to fix this problem while your chain is on your largest (highest) gear. Not only will you not have to worry about the cage hitting or being too close to your cranks, but usually I find that by making it fit with my chain on that highest gear, the other gears pretty much sort themselves out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For securing the dérailleur to your frame, I typically aim for 2-4 cm above my largest chainring. After fixing the height, adjust your limiting screws on the dérailleur so that the cage is about 2 cm from the outside of your largest chainring and again about 2 cm from the inside of your smallest chainring (the first gear, smallest gear.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, unfortunately (and especially if you're running a Shimano group set, there will most likely still be some noise from the chain rubbing against the dérailleur cage. This is something that most riders just have to deal with. I personally try and keep the noise to a minimum by making sure my chain is clean and lubed well so that it glides through the cage easier and quieter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck fixing your problem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T09:09:56.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32799" CreationDate="2015-08-19T09:12:19.260" Score="1" ViewCount="158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gtbicycles.com/usa_en/2015/bikes/urban/sport/transeo-1-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GT Transeo 1.0&lt;/a&gt; bike (bought in 2011 or 2010 as  best as I can remember) and I'd like to try painting the frame to get rid of some (very minor) surface rust and paint damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read a bunch of tutorials on spray painting bike frames, and they tend to make a distinction between steel and aluminium frames. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the official GT website claims that the frame of my bike is made up of &quot;6061 Alloy&quot;, which I assume is a reference to an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/6061_aluminium_alloy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;aluminium/magnesium/silicon&lt;/a&gt; alloy, even though there is no mention of aluminium anywhere. Is this what is usually meant by an 'aluminium frame' online? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not (or even if so) what brand of primer+paint+topcoat would work well for such a frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21142" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T09:20:22.793" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T09:33:26.460" Title="Spraying frame of GT Transeo" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32798" CreationDate="2015-08-19T09:33:26.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for your alloy question, yes. The alloy specification itself is just the grade of aluminum used. Similar to the way you would find the type of steel used to make a knife or similar things like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what type of spray paint to use, I would recommend a Rustolium metal paint. &lt;strong&gt;Go to your local hardware store/paint store and ask them for a specific recommendation&lt;/strong&gt; as far as aesthetic properties of the paint, but the brand itself is particularly tough and holds up well in different weathers, as well as different levels of abuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a quick personal tip; with any paint job, the preparation is always more important, and a bit more time consuming, than the actual painting of the item. Be sure to sand, buff, and clean your frame the best you possibly can. Adding new paint on top of old will ultimately look pretty bad, and your paint will most likely start to chip. Painting on top of dirt, old paint, or cracks may result in a lazy looking paint job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, sand it down, clean it up, make sure it's dry, and go to town! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T09:33:26.460" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32801" CreationDate="2015-08-19T10:34:46.360" Score="12" ViewCount="3233" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stem on my bike is at roughly negative five degrees.  If I were to flip it upside down, thus making it positive five degrees, might I be putting pressure on parts of it that were not designed for pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20267" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T20:57:25.123" Title="Is it okay to flip a stem" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32800" CreationDate="2015-08-19T11:13:00.423" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost all stems  (aside from a few very expensive carbon ones!) are designed to be mounted either way around. The pressures are in the same direction regardless of which way up it is. (they're just reversed) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are designed to be used either way up, otherwise manufacturers would need to produce double the number of stems to create positive and negatively angled setups. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of curiosity I've just looked through a range of carbon stems online, and the vast majority of them are of an identical construction to their less exotic counterparts (complete with writing on both sides) There were a couple of stems that integral mounts for computers that didn't seem to be reversible. But by and large, they all appear to be designed to be used either way around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19723" LastEditorUserId="19723" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T20:57:25.123" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T20:57:25.123" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30835" CreationDate="2015-08-19T12:13:24.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Isn’t your front derailler simply mounted way too high? As a rule of thumb when shifted to the big chainring it should be ~2mm above the big chainring and parallel to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T12:13:24.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30835" CreationDate="2015-08-19T12:48:00.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Follow these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the bolt and remember which direction and/or rotation the front derailleur is affected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Readjust so that when tightened, the front derailleur is at optimum desired position, i.e. 2-3 mm above the 3rd chainring when at closest position to 3rd chainring, and parallel to the chainring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are of course combinations of front and rear gear that causes the chain-rub. The general rules are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low gear: Rear 1/2/3 - Front 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mid gear: Rear 3/4/5/6 - Front 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High gear: rear 6/7/8/9/(10/11) - Front 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the look of your pictures, the derailleur is quiet high up when you tighten the bolt. Put it down a bit, but make sure it give clearance to shift your chain front 2 to 3 in front chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T12:48:00.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32794" CreationDate="2015-08-19T13:57:06.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The description sounds like it is made up of multiple layers, boats built that way are very strong. Being thin, the wood will flex and return to its original shape – I wouldn't expect it to be like a Brooks saddle that molds itself to fit you over time. I think these saddles will be comfortable right out of the box. Or not. This article, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/ask-the-engineers/the-four-and-a-half-rules-of-road-saddles-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Four and a Half Rules of Road Saddles&lt;/a&gt;, helped me sort out what to look for in a comfortable saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the maintenance the saddle requires. If the wood is not well sealed or if the sealing material wears out over time the saddle will start to fail (both from UV damage to the wood and from damage to the glue joints as the wood expands and contracts as its moisture level changes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are beautiful. Looks like parts are available too. Nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T00:44:29.400" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T00:44:29.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32794" CreationDate="2015-08-19T14:15:22.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the kind of thing that can go one of two ways. Either it will work, or it won't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The material for the seat does not always determine if it will be comfortable. I've seen a triple cushioned seat that would break your tailbone if you rode more than five miles on it; I've also seen a seat made of thick, hard resin-like material that felt like a pillow. Rather than the material of the seat, it all boils down to how the seat molds to your backside. If it is the right shape and the in the right position, you could have a section of 2x4 as a seat and it would probably be more comfortable than a cushioned seat that isn't the right shape/position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry to get a little off topic with that one. Anyways,as the first answer stated, I would be concerned about the integrity of the wood on the seat. Is the glue weather proof? Will the sealant fail due to the moisture from your rear? Will the wood flex? What if you chip the seat, will you get slivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest doing more research on the saddle, and most of all, see if you can find any product reviews. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T14:15:22.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32765" CreationDate="2015-08-19T14:47:52.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to run drop bars and don't care if you actually have brifters or not, I've had a really good experience using &lt;a href=&quot;http://gevenalle.com/product/cxv/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gevenalle&lt;/a&gt; Shifting system. It mounts bar end shifters on the front of brake levers and offers configurations for Shimano compatible 9/10/11 speed setups and use a friction shifter for the front (you wouldn't need a new front derailleur).  Just make sure you find the model with the right brake levers, they have short pull (road brakes) and long pull (mtb brakes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been running these on my cross check for quite some time and they are reliable and shift well if you prefer to mostly ride on the hoods. The disadvantage is that you can't shift from the drops and you can't hide the shift cable routing under bar tape.  They are way more convenient than traditional bar end shifters, though those may also be an option for you as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T14:47:52.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32807" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T15:24:18.733" Score="2" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a noisy drive train on my Trek road bike with Shimano 105.  It's very noticeable on the big cog, and is not as bad on the small cog, but still irritating. It's just a constant whiring noise. I am going to give it a clean all around, but it is really not too dirty at all at the moment, and i don't think that will be the solution.  Any ideas where else to look?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21156" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T13:08:52.037" Title="Noisy drivetrain on road bike" Tags="&lt;drivetrain&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32807" CreationDate="2015-08-19T16:00:49.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend, as you stated you were already doing, that you give your driving mech a full cleaning. Run some hot water and a degreaser through all of your gears and your chain, (thoroughly). After that, (it helps if you have a repair stand for this), take some nice chain oil and run it on your chain real good, then shift through all of your gears and run that lube thoroughly through your gears. Personally, I do this two or three times to make sure everything is well lubed. Don't use too much, but dont be stingy with it either. Also, be sure you lube &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; sides of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure the mech itself is ok, but maybe it would be good to check and make sure your front and rear dérailleur are clean so that your shifting is smooth. Also check to make sure your gears are indexed correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully something here helps you out. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T16:00:49.177" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30439" CreationDate="2015-08-19T16:44:16.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably would be alright. But just take into account that the 50 pound carrying limit is for your rack and what it can carry, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the four screws that attached the rack to your bike and what they can carry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence, it would be like taking a 4000 pound winch, securing it to a high position, and lifting an f250 into the air with it. The winch itself would probably be ok, but the mounting area where you attached it to the vehicle would probably fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest being very careful if you choose to carry your bike by the rack. Personally, I would find a grip on the actual frame itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T16:44:16.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32811" CreationDate="2015-08-19T16:53:21.260" Score="3" ViewCount="2982" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike currently has a headset base spacer ring (aka conical or cone spacer) installed (like the tapered ring in the picture &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ts9vW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ts9vW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this ring be completely removed if the steerer and spacers are adjusted accordingly or does this serve some purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3380" LastEditorUserId="3380" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T12:52:25.503" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T12:52:25.503" Title="Can a headset base spacer ring be removed?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32810" CreationDate="2015-08-19T17:02:40.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT - removing old answer bc question changed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That conical spacer presses against the upper bearing assembly. If you take it out you'll need some way to pre-load the bearings. Unless you can find another part to replace the function of the conical spacer you cannot remove it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do you want to remove it? Are you trying to slam your stem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an article about an appropriately named product that might get you where you want to go: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/04/27/slamthatstem-headset-caps-let-you-uh-slam-that-stem/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slam that Stem&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastEditorUserId="19730" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T18:06:44.157" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T18:06:44.157" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32810" CreationDate="2015-08-19T17:07:04.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tapered spacer is usually for water proofing the headset (dust cover), you can remove it as long as there is enough pre-load tension when assemble back the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is actually quiet useful to keep all the dirt and water away, especially if you leave the bike outside the rain. There usually is a set of O-ring(s) inside to keep the water dripping down the steerer tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T10:55:56.817" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T10:55:56.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29632" CreationDate="2015-08-19T20:31:43.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not going to lie, seeing those pictures brought a tear to my eye. So sad how some people treat their toys, (referring to previous owner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, this is a pretty simple fix. Easiest way to get the post outta there would be to give the whole area where the post meets the frame a healthy dose of wd40. Let it sit for a few minutes, then re apply. At this point, you should be able to jar it out of its rusted prison. Hit the front and back of your saddle with either hand, as if you were twisting the seat. You might have to hit a little hard, but the rust should give way enough for you to remove the post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, try recurring treatments of wd40 until it does. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this helps. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T20:31:43.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15812" CreationDate="2015-08-19T20:48:36.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nitto makes a tall quill stem called the Technomic that will give you about 160 mm of extension above the minimum insert line. I've seen them in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rivbike.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rivendell&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://harriscyclery.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Harris Cyclery&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://velo-orange.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velo Orange&lt;/a&gt; catalogs. The Rivendell one is fancy and polished and costs more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also extenders that allow you to use a standard quill stem. They aren't pretty but they get the job done and are about 1/3 the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Technomic stems are fairly common on e-bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T20:48:36.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32817" CreationDate="2015-08-19T23:11:26.900" Score="2" ViewCount="3903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always known my bike frame was too big for me. I got a great deal on the whole bike when I bought it seven years ago. It was an S-Works, probably from the '90s, with all Ultegra gear in great shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find myself on my bike more every week, and the size is beginning to cause me aches, as I'm too stretched out on the bars and have a serious hunch. Getting a new bike or replacing this frame have been on my mind now for months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of my components are in okay shape. I'm semi-confident that with some time (and some help) I could move them to a new frame. My concern was that this new frame might not be compatible with my components. Some things, like the shifters, I'm not concerned about. But I am concerned about things like the wheel and bottom bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, what are the main compatibility issues I could run into with putting old gear on a new bike frame and how can I avoid them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21162" LastEditorUserId="21162" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T23:16:27.900" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T01:27:53.167" Title="What steps to take to replace bike frame" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32816" CreationDate="2015-08-20T01:27:53.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many issues for the new frame:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fork drop out (front wheel spacing) might be wider, 100 mm for most modern bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frame dropout (rear wheel spacing) might wider, 135 for most modern bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Headset likely to be wider, so you have to buy new headset with compatibility to a 1&quot; fork (I guess?), 1-1/8 inch to 1-1/2 inch for modern bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom bracket is likely to be ok&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Front derailleur clamp may be too small&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seat diameter might be different &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules of thumb is that if the bike has no sentimental values, it is always more economical to use that money and buy a second-hand bike. Unless you would like to spend extra money to tinker and have fun with the bike in your own time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T01:27:53.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32819" CreationDate="2015-08-20T02:39:43.630" Score="3" ViewCount="2474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a bit of a bigger guy (260lbs) and I'm not too confident with riding my bike at higher speeds just yet. Mainly because I feel as though my brakes, (Stock V brakes that came with my Specialized Sirrus) are just not beefy enough to adequately perform under the stress I put on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not ride my brakes. I try to use them only when necessary. But I am a bit bigger than other people, and I feel like my pads will wear out faster because of that, as well as feeling like I'm putting them through too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other day I was at my LBS and I noticed a set of BMX brakes that seemed a bit more sturdy. The pads were twice as thick as my ones I have now. The brakes appeared to be caliper brakes, and just appeared to be better than my stock v-brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, given that the sizes matched and I technically &lt;strong&gt;could&lt;/strong&gt; switch them if I wanted too, would that be the best option? Or should I simply buy some larger pads and maybe change my brake cables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(P.s. Unfortunately I don't have the model of my current brakes or the ones I saw at the shop, I was just looking for some general advice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T03:56:07.867" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T02:31:02.197" Title="Would Putting BMX Bike Brakes on my Road Bike be Ok?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32818" CreationDate="2015-08-20T03:27:23.130" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V-brake levers pull twice as much cable as a calliper brake levers, so you'll not be able to swap them without swapping the levers too, and these are often attached to the shifters, so you'd end up swapping an awful lot of parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally V-brakes are mounted to a pair of bosses on the seat stays &amp;amp; fork legs whilst calliper brakes are mounted to a hole in either the bridge of the seat stays or fork crown, you might have these holes on your frame, but it does leave the ugly V-brake mounts unused. Although BMX brakes seem to use the 2 boss mount like V-brakes, I'm not an expert in BMX, that's more my brothers area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, what makes you think the BMX stuff will be better? BMX stuff is usually designed to be robust rather than the absolute best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your V-brakes are almost certainly good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5757" LastEditorUserId="5757" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T03:34:31.217" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T03:34:31.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29632" CreationDate="2015-08-20T04:54:35.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a thought…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run a bolt – maybe even a high strength bolt – backwards through the seatpost clamp and put a putty knife or the edge of a heavy washer between the halves of the clamp so that as you tighten the bolt it opens the seat tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a comment below, it was noted that in some seatpost clamps the threaded portion is an insert (i.e., it is not integral with the clamp) and would likely be pushed out by this method – so as you start tightening watch closely on the outboard side of the bolt, if you see paint cracking or any movement at all back off, you may have an insert and this idea won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tighten the bolt a bit, add your favorite penetrating oil (I like Kroil), try twisting the seat post. Rinse (or not) and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T13:37:52.290" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T13:37:52.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32700" CreationDate="2015-08-20T08:28:31.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either spacer arrangement is acceptable, and the choice is part of correctly installing the new pads. But I'm not clear exactly what pads you have, as there are two types: one with posts that poke out and bolts at right angles that clamp onto them (older style) and pads with threaded bolts built in that attach directly to the V brake arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical V brakes should have the arms vertical when the pads contact the rim. The specific requirement is that the pad surfaces are parallel to the rim at that point, and as they wear they will become that way. Those semi-spherical spacers and washers allow you to rotate the pads to achieve that, so you have some tolerance there. That also lets you toe in the pads, BTW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's better to have the arms slightly out past vertical with new pads because as they wear the arms will move in. But that should be by a small amount - a couple of millimetres at the adjustment point marked L in the diagram below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flat washers shouldn't need to be against the brake pad, normally they're used under the nut to help isolate rotation of the nut from rotation of the pad (so you don't move the pad out of alignment when you're doing up the nut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIJHZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AIJHZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;v brake setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saccon.it/download/FV-setup.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;image from Saccom&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T08:28:31.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-20T14:58:05.707" Score="1" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use shimano 6700 chain rings on my shimano 7400 crank set?  I am upgrading the drive train and would like to keep the crank if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21174" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T19:57:18.557" Title="Shimano 7400 crankset" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14775" CreationDate="2015-08-20T15:47:31.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/hybrid-bicycles/638731-looking-reviews-cannondale-quick-cx-ultra.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cannondale Quick CX 2010 with a headshok on a Fatty fork&lt;/a&gt;. The lock never really worked, it locked but there was always a very small move causing noise when riding over a bump. The bike mechanic suggested to avoid locking the shok. It lasted about two years before I needed to start adding air every month or so. One day it leaked oil everywhere, made nasty clunking metal-against-metal noises, the lock became non functional. I took it to the shop, they fixed it somehow without replacing it, and it worked again for a few months before it started needing air added to it every week or every month, depending on still unknown variables. It now failed again with the same symptoms, and it's completely collapsed: the shok doesn't have enough strength to support the bike's weight. I have to take it to the shop again and it's not exactly cheap to get it fixed. I had known about this, I wouldn't have bought this bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3097" LastEditorUserId="3097" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T15:57:46.853" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T15:57:46.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32937" CreationDate="2015-08-20T16:02:11.393" Score="0" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/2013.giant.defy.4.compact/11833/56806/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2013 Giant Defy 4&lt;/a&gt; and a new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.montaguebikes.com/crosstown_comfort_folding_bike.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Montague Urban(UK)/Crosstown(USA) folding 21&quot; 700c&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to make the Montague better for the occasional uphill commute home I do when I don't have access to a boot and a passenger seat (hence the folding bike) but I don't want it to be too appealing to thieves (however I don't mind making things appear cheap with mud and sandpaper!). It's built as an urban bike so the seat is comfort and the riser bars are for an upright position (so it's not great for a bent over wind resistant riding position). It only comes 7 speed with no front mech. Making the bike lighter would be lovely when I'm carrying myself and my gym stuff home, cursing at the geographically almost-guaranteed head-wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To that end I want to fit parts that would improve my ride (drop bars, better seat and anything else), but I'd rather buy good stuff for my Giant and then replace the not very good Montague stuff with the now surplus Giant stuff. (That's assuming the Giant hardware is indeed better.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any useful info on things like the bars, which just say &quot;Giant Sport 26.0&quot; and which I can't find these on the Giant site. Roughly, the Giant is 10.7 kg and the Montague is 12.3 kg. Plus, without (what I consider to be) a reliable pannier rack option I carry the weight on my back. I'm fairly heavy and my road surface is fairly rubbish, I think I'm right to make weight loss a target for the &lt;em&gt;bike&lt;/em&gt; ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of weighing the deconstructed bikes for parts, how do I proceed with this project? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of things to note: I've already made the Montague look like crap by using permanent marker on the text, muddy water and strategically placed plastic carrier bags so it won't be too enticing to thieves - new fancy kit on it would make it a target; also I've got a couple of non-stock parts on my Giant: Shimano R540 SPD SL pedals and a Nukeproof Plasma Speed saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/24142/replacing-a-groupset-in-step-purchases&quot;&gt;Replacing a groupset in step purchases&lt;/a&gt; whilst this is a good post and will help if I come to adding a front mech or increasing the cassette, I am not primarily interested in replacing the gears - 7 speed is OK for the most part - I would probably only change it if the bars, stem and seat and drop levers if I change to drop bars. I'm more interested in making as big weight savings as possible and getting a more comfortable setup for reducing wind resistance etc. Though I'm sure once that's done I'll be wanting different gears!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21176" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T07:45:54.723" Title="Specs for parts on Giant Defy 4 (2013) to decide on upgrades to transfer parts onto another bike" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32823" CreationDate="2015-08-20T18:21:54.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5302/shimano-chainring-compatability&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as the BCD (bolt circle diameter) and bolt pattern (4 bolts, 5 bolts) matches up between the cranksets, you can swap rings between cranksets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you have the Ultegra compact and got the Dura-ace regular double, the BCD's will be different and you can't swap them. However, if they are both compact or both regular doubles, they will have the same BCD's and you can swap the chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some may complain about possibly different chainring widths, but in practice between 10 and 11 speed you wouldn't notice the difference (if there is any). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T18:32:21.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29632" CreationDate="2015-08-20T19:44:39.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leaving out the back story - which is emotional - here is how I got an alloy seatpost out of a Columbus SLX (steel) frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a bunch of optimistic advice and it all failed me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Penetrating oil such as WD-40, Hard core penetrators like PBlaster and Kroil, Freeze spray, Hammers, and giant levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was down to the last resort - sodium hydroxide, aka lye, aka drain cleaner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BeGqD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BeGqD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I melted the seatpost out with drain cleaner. If you are going to do this you can't just buy drain cleaner. A lot of drain cleaners are not 100% sodium hydroxide. Get the pure stuff. &lt;strong&gt;This stuff is dangerous - use precautions&lt;/strong&gt;. I wore safety glasses and huge gloves everytime I handled this stuff and I handled it a lot. This process takes time but if you persist you will get results with little more effort that the effort of mixing the lye and pouring the mixture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are going to do is flip the bike upside down and pour lye down the seat tube so that it hits the seatpost and melts it from the inside. Lye is corrosive to aluminum, it does not affect steel. I cut the head off of my seatpost which in hindsight I would not do again. Seatposts are usually hollow and cutting the head off reveals an open hole which the lye runs out of. I plugged the hole with &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0012QJ1GK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plumbers putty&lt;/a&gt; of all things. I also spring some leaks near the binder bolt so I plugged those with plumber putty also. Also my frame had holes in the top tube for cable routing so I plugged those also. I recommend experimenting with water to check for leaks! The water-test is also helpful to determine the volume that you want to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pulled the wheels and fork off of my bike when I did  mine because I did not want anything flopping around and also I wanted all aluminum away from the lye. You need to pull the bottom bracket because that is where you pour the lye. So with the bike upside down bike such that the seatpost is the furthest down, big gloves and eye protection donned, and your lye mixed according to instructions you pour the lye into the bottom bracket filling up the seatpost. Rinse out the container with water many many times and rinse your gloves many many times. At this point you can put your ear to the bottom bracket and you can hear the chemical sizzling. After a while - day or days - you will pour the lye out and pour some more in. I am not a chemist and I do not know how lye works, maybe if you agitate the stuff every few hours it works better. I just made sure to leave it in for at least a day and I never left it in for more than a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pour the old stuff out and pour some new stuff in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So about that hole which is revealed when you cut the head off of the seatpost. On the one hand this is something you need to plug constantly. Because of this you might not want the hole. On the other hand it makes draining easy. I got to where I would pull the plug over the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000R86V12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;slop sink&lt;/a&gt;, replug the hole, and pour in the fresh stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hole is also nice to access because you can see if the stuff is working - the hole gets bigger, gets jagged, etc. So you might want access to the hole during the melting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually you will get a nicely corroded seatpost which is still stuck in the frame. Now it is hacksaw blade time.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7T2Gt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7T2Gt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a hacksaw blade, just the blade, and stick it into the seatpost hole and start cutting the seat post. These are long vertical cuts that run the length of the seatpost. You are basically cutting the round seatpost into pieces of pie. This is extremely tedious work and you will second guess yourself, thinking that you are sawing into the frame but eventually you will get a complete cut and you will realize that cutting the aluminum seatpost is very different than cutting steel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you are making the vertical slices when you have time, and then plugging everything and using lye over the course of days and in between cutting sessions. The more mangled things get the more difficult it will be to keep the lye in the tube. Eventually pieces of the seatpost will come loose and you can pull them out with pliers. Keep going until everything is either corroded away or yanked out. What is left will be very rough. I recommend some files and then something attached to a drill, like a cylinder hone or perhaps a barrel hone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0qdq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O0qdq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use that to clean up the inside of the seatpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are done give your frame a good shake to make sure that all of the bits are out, then rinse again with water. You might take this opportunity to apply &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0012GO58Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;framesaver&lt;/a&gt;. You are ready to put everything back on, using grease liberally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T19:44:39.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13557" CreationDate="2015-08-20T20:22:17.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a campagnolo 10 speed  set up  i was looking for a same but semi compact and could only find in 11 speed   so fitted new  11 speed semi compact  so as riding  i was getting odd creaking sounds through  the carbon frame to my saddle   thinking  the bars on saddle was the problem . I continued   to check gears etc.  So in the end i put my existing  10  speed back  this is 52/39   170 crank  .  bingo all was smooth  all noises  went.  I hope this helps  .  Although  saying all this my son had a carbon boardman  frame  and all seemed ok   .  So it possible  a frame can make a difference.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21180" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T20:22:17.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32834" CreationDate="2015-08-20T21:59:47.850" Score="22" ViewCount="3967" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been bike commuting in the East Bay Area of California (5mi/day, plus public transport) for a few weeks now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently attended an in-class safety course, where I learned the fine for not stopping at a stop sign is $250, AND a point on your drivers license (some people were there to remove this point, so people do get cited).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then, I've been mostly obeying the stopping laws.  But, another takeaway of that class was the importance of predictability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like stopping puts me in danger when I seem to be the only one to do it.  If no one expects me to stop, I am worried about bikes and cars not properly anticipating it, and my being involved in a collision.  I know, it wouldn't be my fault legally, but it sort of is my fault because I'm knowingly being unpredictable by stopping, yet do it anyway.  And of course, it doesn't matter who was right, I don't want anyone to get hurt!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is just to continue to stop, per the law, but I thought I'd check with you all.  I don't have enough experience to know whether this is a valid concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Idaho_stop&quot;&gt;Idaho Stop&lt;/a&gt;: Treating stop signs as yields, and less pertinent to this question, stop lights as stop signs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20837" LastEditorUserId="20837" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T14:48:53.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T08:51:56.147" Title="Is my stopping dangerous when Idaho Stop is de facto but not legal?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;traffic&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="33" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32830" CreationDate="2015-08-20T22:27:59.943" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why you think it puts you in danger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rule of thumb is that I will only do the Idaho stop when I can see&#xA;all the roads at an intersection far enough to know that a car won't&#xA;show up before I get through the intersection and I can't see any cars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been riding in the East Bay for 15+ years and I've never felt like &#xA;my stopping at stop signs has endangered me in any way. The most dangerous part of your ride is always going through the intersection, not what happens before or after. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general the less urban parts of the East Bay are cycling friendly, but &#xA;if you go by the rule of invisiblity&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, I think you'll be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, there is an effort to make the Idaho stop legal in California that has fairly serious backing in the legislature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Rule of invisiblity: Never assume a car will see you and yield the right of way. The traffic laws may be on your side, but the laws of physics are not. &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastEditorUserId="21195" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T09:18:04.010" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T09:18:04.010" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32830" CreationDate="2015-08-20T22:28:17.417" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or at least slow down a lot, so that you look like you're taking care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such signs are not really cyclist friendly. But if you don't take any notice of them then it reinforces the negative view many of the motor vehicle drivers have of us. Also, police officers generally have some discretion. It's only if they're bored or what you do is particularly blatant that they'll take the time to book you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are doing what the sign says, I think that's behaving predictably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other's reference: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Idaho_stop&quot;&gt;Idaho stop&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T22:33:39.437" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T22:33:39.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-20T22:30:52.957" Score="2" ViewCount="813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've watched several youtube videos on inflating bike tires. i have presta valves on mine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I the top is screwed completely on it works but i'm told this is just pressurizing the inside of my pump. When I unscrew the top to open the valve, the tire doesn't inflate at all. What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After opening the valve, I put the pump on the stem and push all the way down with the switch perpendicular. In this position I can hear air coming out of the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I put the switch up so that it's parallel to the valve and the rest of the pump piece. Then I can hear air stop leaking and it seems ready to pump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I actually pump to put air in I can hear the air going everywhere except in my tire. What am I doing wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21181" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T05:13:43.927" Title="trouble inflating tires" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32830" CreationDate="2015-08-20T23:16:56.867" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to stop signs, I live by some simple rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's a multi-way stop and there's another car waiting or just arriving, I stop. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I can't clearly see or judge what I'm riding into, I stop. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it doesn't feel right for some reason, I stop. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's a cop there (or a history of cops), I stop. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't necessarily clip out and put my foot down, but I stop. These rules have worked for me pretty well. But one thing I've never worried about is my safety, &lt;em&gt;when I stop&lt;/em&gt;. I've easily ridden 100,000 miles on the roads, including the East Bay, in all kinds of conditions. I don't think I've ever been in a situation where I felt less safe stopping than not stopping. There are plenty of things out there to worry about, but that isn't one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20494" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T23:16:56.867" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9092" CreationDate="2015-08-21T00:09:21.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ring in at about 280 lbs (125 kgs).  I ride 100 kms/week mostly hard pack, gravel, sand, sand over hard pack.  Lost of bumps and pot holes but few roots or large rocks.  My riding style is fast and hard.  I have an entry level Cannondale with an XXL frame which is sweet as honey. I break spokes on a regular basis.  I just threw in the towel on the OEM wheel and got a new wheel.  The bike experts I have spoken with say that an $800-1000 bike should have sturdy wheels for the large lad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21184" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T00:09:21.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32818" CreationDate="2015-08-21T00:10:12.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a big guy at 100 KG, (was bigger 120 when I started biking) and we have one advantage while braking - which is ballast, or weight transferance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most braking you can do is 100% on the front to the point where the rear wheel has almost zero weight.  Any more braking and you're over the handlebars and/or the rear wheel is going some direction its not supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, get your backside off the seat, stretch out your arms, and stick your bum out.   Hang it out the back like you're mooning someone behind you.   Drop your shoulders as well, and brake hard on the front brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel yourself rotating forward, modulate your tension on the front brake lever.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the most effective braking you can do on a bike, regardless of the brake type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maximum duration should be about half a minute, the limiting factor here is the temperature of the rim/pads leads to brake fade on a long downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T00:10:12.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32048" CreationDate="2015-08-21T00:47:23.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the rim for protrusions - is the rim tape misaligned?  Are there any lumps/bumps?  Any spoke ends prodruding just a bit too far?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the inside of the tyre/tire for lumps and bumps too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you using a presta valve in a schrader-sized rim hole?  Could be opening a small hole there when pressurising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you always put the tube in the same way around?   Try flipping it to move any weak point around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hmm - &quot;weak point&quot;  raises a thought...  Perhaps you should cut your losses and just fit a new tube.  They're consumable; I guess your current one has done its dash.   Don't want the weak point to turn into a blowout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T00:47:23.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29632" CreationDate="2015-08-21T01:00:22.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Noone's mentioned heat to enlarge the steel frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, check with a magnet to make sure the frame is steel.  If its an aluminium frame, then stop now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the bottom bracket and bearings first.  And remove the seat.   Also remove brake cables from the area of the seat clamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drill a good sized hole through the top of the seat pole, and fit a lever like a decent sized screwdriver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try some light warmth on the frame from a brazing torch or similar&#xA;while an assistant dribbles water down the seat pole, to keep the seat pole cool and not expanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assistant also pulls and pushes on the leverage trying to break the seatpole free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note this is very likely to damage the paint on the frame, and if you've used penetrating oils already, they may fume or ignite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T01:00:22.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32833" CreationDate="2015-08-21T01:44:37.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practice with a spare tube outside of the tyre.  You'll see it start to inflate on one or two pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be the pump you're using locks-on the other way?  When its clamped down you should not be able to feel air moving out the end, around the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly your pump is a schrader-only style?  There are wee thread-on adapters that let you use a schrader (car valve) fitting on a presta bike valve.  They also work as caps to protect the valve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T01:44:37.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32851" CreationDate="2015-08-21T02:03:25.973" Score="2" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the iBert front-mounting child seat. I've used it previously attached to my street bike as in the below image, but between the straight bars and the shifter triggers, I had to mount it so low that my knees knocked against it while riding, which is a non-starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CA3Qk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CA3Qkm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired a long-tail cargo bike with cruiser-style handlebars, which I intended to use with the iBert seat. Unfortunately, the stem is fixed-height and does not have the 3/4&quot; straight length between the frame and handlebars required for the T-bar mounting post (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://ibert.bike/safe-T-features/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the maker's website&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yGFAX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yGFAX.png&quot; alt=&quot;manufacturer instructions&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the seat post is adjustable, so I thought I might be able to simply mount this seat in the rear instead. Most child seats are rear-mounted, the seat post seems as durable as the stem, and in this configuration the seat won't be moving side-to-side as it does when attached to the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find anywhere on the maker's website that this is explicitly prohibited or warned against. I have emailed them, but the response I received was that they have been purchased by another company and &quot;appreciate your patience&quot; while they go through that process - no response with respect to the mounting locations. I also don't see anything online that addresses whether it's a reasonable &quot;hack&quot; to mount the seat this way. The mounting bar is a simple assembly with two bolts that I'm sure I'll be able to physically attach to the seat post, high enough to clear the rear rack. What I'm not sure of is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this likely to damage the bicycle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there reason to think this would be unsafe for my passenger?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also not sure if the legs of the seat will interfere with the rider in front; assuming it's safe enough for the passenger and the bike, I can test that out on my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is equipped with a sturdy double-leg kickstand, such that both tires are in contact with level ground when the kickstand is deployed and the bike is stable for loading/unloading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19274" LastEditorUserId="19274" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T14:27:43.240" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T14:27:43.240" Title="Can the iBert safe-T-seat be safely mounted behind the seat post?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;child-seat&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32818" CreationDate="2015-08-21T02:31:02.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical BMX brakes are u brakes and require 990 posts. Road bikes don't have these posts (nor do mountain bikes or hybrids). If you can't see the posts look at the position of the posts. U brake posts are above the rim. Cantilever posts (your v bakes) are below the rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V brakes can stop you. You might need better brakes or better pads but I bet that some practice pushing the limits of your front brake will get you confidently stopping on dimes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T02:31:02.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32830" CreationDate="2015-08-21T02:46:23.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to break the law... stop.&#xA;If you want people driving cars and trucks to respect you... stop.&#xA;If you don't want to risk a minor mistake of attention getting a cyclist killed... stop.&#xA;If you are riding your bicycle to get exercise... stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because you are pedaling your ass somewhere does not give you the right to run stop signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because other people don't stop at stop signs, that does not give you the right to run stop signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the laws changed, until then, stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21187" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T02:46:23.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32850" CreationDate="2015-08-21T04:33:34.933" Score="-1" ViewCount="2363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly, my wonderful electra cruiser got stolen on tuesday. I am a college student with no other transportation, i need a new bike RIGHT away, the busses in my town are currently on strike and not running, so im looking for a cruiser around 120$. Im 5'7 300 pounds (yikes!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before, i kept getting 4 flats a week. I already determined the cause in my previous question, it was that, in short, i need a higher air pressure. The tires i had (that were stolen with the bike) were 26 x 2.125 and read on the side wall that they can hold 45-65 PSI of air. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Walmart has cheap cruisers. So today i went to walmart and saw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most cruisers there had 26 x 1.25 tires, much thinner than mine. Only a few had 26 x 2.125..... (Which is what i thought was standard for cruisers)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They all said on the sidewall the &quot;tire can only hold 40 PSI of air&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it that, a tire the exact same size as mine, would hold much less air than mine? And if i bought one and kept the air at 40 psi as it says, wouldnt it feel just like my old bike did at 40 psi (harder to ride, meaning more difficult to pedal) and have the flat issue all over again??&#xA;Huffy cruisers usually match the tires to the bike... So it would not be ideal to simply buy new tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another bike on craigslist im looking at. Its a genesis cruiser, big bike, with 29&quot; tires. The reviews all say its ideal for bigger people... However yet again, the tires are only 1.25&quot; wide... (I thought heavier people need wider tires?) And again, they only hold 40 psi of air (Ugh!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, i am asking the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why would the same size tire have different air limitations?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The bike(s) im looking to buy, the tires say &quot;fill tire to 40 psi&quot; when normally, it would say &quot;40 PSI - 65 PSI&quot;. All the tires say this no matter the size)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;since tires usually say &quot;40-60 psi&quot; rather than just one number, could these tires say just one number (40 psi) because thats a good median, meaning i could get away with 50-60 psi?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If i can not afford new tires in addition to a nee bike, would you reccomend i stay away from these bikes with tires that can only hold 40 psi?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Say i were to purchase the genesis, which has 29&quot;x1.25&quot; tires that say they can only hold 40 PSI. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I heard bigger people need wider tires (like 2.1&quot; and up) and more air pressure. Would the fact that these are bigger, 29&quot; tires make up for the fact that they are thinner and hold less air in terms of an easy ride?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Could i change the 29&quot; x 1.25 tires for 29&quot; 2.125 tires with out changin the rims?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for where i can purchase an inexpensive beach cruiser style bike that doesnt have this tire issue?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20981" LastEditorUserId="20981" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T11:54:36.377" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T11:54:36.377" Title="Why Do the same size tires say they can hold different amounts of air (psi), and does that matter?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-08-26T19:17:26.090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31984" CreationDate="2015-08-21T04:34:06.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I have owned my fat bike (with 4 inch tires) I have not ridden my mountain bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fat bike is a little heavier pushing - but when I add more air pressure I cannot tell the difference from my mountain bike. On the Fat Bike it's all about air pressure for different riding. On pavement add max air pressure for less rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 60 tpi (120 tpi ride better for lighter riders) tires ride awesomely and with the right air pressure out-corner the mountain bike - more contact rubber on the corners - I guess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21189" LastEditorUserId="21189" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T04:54:06.327" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T04:54:06.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-21T04:36:33.100" Score="0" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this old bike that I'm taking a look at (ie oiling and whatnot) for a friend. The bike is old (maybe 20 years old), with this type of a gear shifter for front derailleur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gw97G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gw97G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;One lever shifter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a single lever/handle thing that looks like it should slide around to switch the gears. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could anyone tell me what type this is? I need to fix it (because it doesn't shift), but I'm not sure how to approach it exactly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21190" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T06:03:32.270" Title="What kind of gear shifter is this? Single lever" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32833" CreationDate="2015-08-21T05:13:43.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like your pump fitting is in schrader configuration. Locate the pump instructions and verify/modify the pump-head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T05:13:43.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32843" CreationDate="2015-08-21T05:37:03.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok there are a number of questions in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) 29&quot; vs 26&quot;: that's not a question of which would hold your weight better or worse.  29&quot; rolls a bit better, especially over rough ground, so if that's important to you, then go for 29&quot;.  A bike with a very small frame for a short person, will work better with smaller wheels - i.e. 26&quot; - but at 5'7&quot; I reckon you'll be fine on either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Wider tires, e.g. 2.5&quot; vs 1.25&quot;, with &lt;em&gt;the same amount of air pressure&lt;/em&gt; will make the ride firmer, and will hold more weight.  E.g. if you put 40psi in a 2.5&quot; tire, and 40psi in a 1.25&quot; tire, then the wider one will feel harder when you're riding it, and will make it less likely that you squash the tire right down when you hit a bump - so you'll get fewer pinch flats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is a maximum width tire that you can fit on your bike before it will start rubbing on the sides of your frame.  This will not be printed anywhere so you have to figure it out by trying different sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you put &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; air pressure in the narrow tire then it will support you just as well.  In that example you'd have to put double the pressure in the 1.25&quot; tire because it's half as wide as the 2.5&quot;.  So why don't you just put more air in the thinner tire?  See below....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Why do different tires have different &quot;limits&quot; on them.  That's a quality question.  The pressure recommendation is usually written like this: &quot;25 psi - 50 psi&quot;.  What this means is that if the pressure is less than 25 psi, you'll almost certainly get pinch flats, and if the pressure is greater than 50 psi, then you risk blowing the tire off of the rim.  Better quality tires have higher numbers at the high end: e.g. 25 psi - 70 psi.  Some tires go as high as 140 psi, especially very narrow racing tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given your concern about supporting your weight and not getting pinch flats, I would recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stay with the 26&quot; wheels if that is what your bike has now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get the widest tires that will fit in your frame easily (e.g. 2.5&quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go for a good quality tire, not the cheapest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T06:29:07.147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T06:29:07.147" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32845" CreationDate="2015-08-21T06:03:32.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd call it a thumb shiifter.   Guess its for the front derailleur, and on a bike that old its probably not indexed, which makes this easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly is the gear wire loose?  Check them down on the frame and see if they're slack.  If so, the wire has snapped or the end has come off inside the shifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't physically move the shifter then it could be jammed with wire or the &quot;barrel&quot;, or just plain rusted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That plastic bit on top is a handle- its the top of the tension screw.  If you undo it completely you'll be able to see into the mechanism for rust.  This is also how you'd get access to the cable to replace it.  Note your other-hand shifter is more likely to be indexed (ie click-stops at every gear position) so not directly comparable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the problem is rust, tell your friend to stop storing the bike outside.&#xA;If its a broken cable, that's a fairly straightforward fix, albeit dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T06:03:32.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32843" CreationDate="2015-08-21T08:10:58.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pressure you can put in a tyre depends on the tyre and the rim.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tyre bead (the band that stops it popping off the rim) varies from tyre to tyre, and some will not withstand as much pressure as others.  An expensive tyre with a kevlar bead should be fine up to 120psi. The volume of the tyre is a factor too, but even a quality large volume MTB tyre would be capable of holding 80+psi.  The tyre threadcount is also potentially a factor - this is basically a measure of how durable and robust the tyre is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheel rim is obviously also important, as it needs to be capable of withstanding the pressure too.  Weaker / cheap rims will not withstand the same pressure as a more expensive rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing the bikes you're looking at have tyres only designed to hold a lower pressure due to the bead and lower threadcount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21130" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T08:10:58.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32840" CreationDate="2015-08-21T09:44:38.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wth the childs's legs sticking forward the way the website suggests, you've got no hope.  You could easily check this by fitting the seat and trying to ride without the child -- that way you don't even need to do the clamps up tight.  You're also likely to find that the slumped-foward head rest sticks into your lower back and means that you're badly positioned on the saddle -- just what you don't want when you're controlling a bike with an extra load up high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's got more support than most front-mount seats but in general they're designed for you to have your arms round the child and your back behind them.  This one still has a very low back, and if the child falls asleep behind you they'll be flopping around like crazy and you won't know about it (though this happens even on much bigger rear seats as well, at least then their head can't flop backwards going over a bump.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people I see riding with front mount seats have to ride with their knees very wide to avoid the seat -- and this is a wider seat than I've seen on the road.  It seems to me that there's only quite a limited set of bike/rider/conditions combinations for which front seats work: You need to be at the small end of your frame's adjustments, with wide bars, and riding on flat roads where you don't need to work hard to accelerate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T09:44:38.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32830" CreationDate="2015-08-21T10:09:53.827" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many or most &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; cyclists don't stop: but, &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; cyclists can get into 'accidents'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advice, if there's a car or bike behind me then I use a &lt;em&gt;hand signal&lt;/em&gt; (in lieu of a brake light) to indicate that I am about to slow to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unusually once on my commuting route (in Toronto), there was some bicycle police (who were giving traffic tickets to any cyclists who weren't stopping at a four-way stop sign). I figured that &lt;em&gt;these&lt;/em&gt; police, being professional city cyclists themselves, could answer my question and so I asked one of them,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How much stop do you want to see, in a bicycle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to know whether he expected to see a dead stop, or a rolling stop. His answer was,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intersections are the most dangerous place when you're a cyclist.&lt;/strong&gt; I see cyclists blowing through a stop sign without even &lt;em&gt;looking&lt;/em&gt;. What I &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to see is people &lt;em&gt;looking&lt;/em&gt;, before they enter an intersection: so &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; ways! &lt;em&gt;Twice&lt;/em&gt;! And if you see a policeman, then come to a &lt;em&gt;complete&lt;/em&gt; stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that was a really good answer, explaining the reason for the law, not just repeating the letter of the law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, &lt;em&gt;primarily&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: Look both ways (twice), &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you enter the intersection. If you have to slow down or stop in order to have enough time to take a good look, well them's the breaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secondarily&lt;/strong&gt;: If you wouldn't even notice a policeman you weren't looking hard enough; and if you do see a policeman and don't come to a complete stop, then you're just making their job harder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1097" LastEditorUserId="1097" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T08:51:56.147" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T08:51:56.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-21T13:44:15.537" Score="3" ViewCount="1307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I almost wiped out on the morning commute while rounding a corner!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 700x25mm tires and usually keep them around 90psi.  What is the most you've put in your tires (psi) to insure flawless turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19343" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T05:47:15.237" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T20:51:31.017" Title="Minimum tire pressure for 20 mph (32 kph) turn" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32855" CreationDate="2015-08-20T16:22:39.007" Score="3" ViewCount="1985" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm from the Netherlands, so I mean a Dutch style bicycle, as in: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fietsenverhuurschiermonnikoog.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/giant-single-4u-heren.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDroim.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I want to attach a 12 volt horn to it. I could just put it in the basket. It doesn't &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; need to be charged while pedaling, or it can just be partly charged, but just that it runs out of power a bit slower. Then I'd like to attach a horn to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this be possible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="stenlan" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T20:16:39.073" Title="Can I secure a 12v battery to my bicycle to charge it? And then attach a 12v horn to it?" Tags="&lt;battery&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32854" CreationDate="2015-08-20T16:43:35.243" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why you couldn't do this. It's just a matter of attaching a small generator to the bike, usually driven by the wheel, and then making sure you get the right voltage output. This guide looks to be a good place to start: &lt;a href=&quot;http://m.instructables.com/id/USB-Bike-Generator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;USB Bike Generator&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="NineCrimes" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T17:51:09.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32857" CreationDate="2015-08-21T13:49:56.727" Score="20" ViewCount="1127" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why do modern mountain bike forks no longer use boots on fork stanchions? Older mountain bikes used to have them on the forks, and lefty and headshocks still do. Why have these fallen out of fashion and would putting aftermarket fork boots on your stanchions be productive or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2020-05-12T01:28:10.807" Title="Why do modern mountain bike forks no longer use boots on fork stanchions?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32856" CreationDate="2015-08-21T15:55:49.017" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As technology goes, seal and wiper advance to the point that boots on fork stanchions becomes obsolete, for both economical and practical reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seal has advanced to the point that air suspension fork was possible and economical, leaving alone keeping dirt and grimes off the suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Obsolescence#Technical_obsolescence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Technical obsolescence&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: And as @DeletedUser points out in a comment, the boots could cause more harm than good by holding moisture and dirt against the forks in places where they aren’t visible to the user. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2018-07-28T14:50:10.863" LastActivityDate="2018-07-28T14:50:10.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32853" CreationDate="2015-08-21T16:26:13.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a couple types of failures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose traction&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Lower pressure will have a slightly larger contact patch   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fold / Flex&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The tire can flex or even fold over from the centrifugal force&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A higher pressure tire is more rigid&lt;br&gt;&#xA;An under inflated tires will jump around - not good&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can only lower the pressure so far before you start loose side to side strength&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This would also be down in the range that you would start to get pinch flats  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will take a tire in the operating range&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are above 170 lbs then near the top of the range  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a bigger patch then get a bigger tire and run it within the recommended pressure range&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A bigger tire is not just bigger - it has a lower pressure operating range&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run a soft rubber compound  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T16:26:13.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32908" CreationDate="2015-08-21T20:19:04.637" Score="4" ViewCount="2784" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rear wheel was stolen this morning and I am unsure about how to go about getting  a new one without wasting too much time and money (I really want to start biking to work again!). My bike is really old and I'm not sure what parts I need to measure to figure out which type of wheel to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a Diamondback Apex adventure series that looks exactly like this picture. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRi68.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZRi68.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;that looks like this&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm completely new to bikes and don't know what the parts are called. It looks like the gear part was left over. Can anybody tell me where to start, and what to measure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21206" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T03:32:40.633" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T01:01:09.643" Title="How do I replace my rear wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;diamondback&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-21T20:33:03.513" Score="3" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are Velomobiles exempt from UK Window Tinting laws ?&#xA;I know they are Exempt from speed limits, as speed limits &#xA;only apply to Motor Vehicles. Is it the same with the Window tinting laws ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21207" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T00:08:49.093" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T00:56:12.040" Title="Velomobiles and UK Window Tinting Laws?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32539" CreationDate="2015-08-21T23:57:42.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road wheels will be more likely to be more aero with aero bladed spokes, and possibly 4 less of them. Deeper section rims are more common on road wheels than cx wheels too out on the start lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21213" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T23:57:42.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32860" CreationDate="2015-08-22T00:03:08.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, window tinting law only applies to motor vehicles.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gov.uk/tinted-vehicle-window-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.gov.uk/tinted-vehicle-window-rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;editing in legal definition of vehicle as per your subsequent question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Statutory Instrument 1994 No. 1519: The Traffic Signs Regulations and General Directions 1994 stated that a ‘pedal cycle’ was defined as “a unicycle, bicycle, tricycle, or cycle having four or more wheels, not being in any case mechanically propelled unless it is an electrically assisted pedal cycle of such class as is to be treated as not being a motor vehicle for the purposes of the 1984 Act.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikehub.co.uk/featured-articles/cycling-and-the-law/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikehub.co.uk/featured-articles/cycling-and-the-law/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A velomobile isn't a bicycle, by virtue of having more than two wheels. It is however a pedal cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally this means that you can have a couple of pints at the pub and ride it back home without having to submit to a breathtest or risk your driving licence AS LONG AS you are not unfit to ride through drink, or pedalling furiously...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21213" LastEditorUserId="21213" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T00:56:12.040" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T00:56:12.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32859" CreationDate="2015-08-22T00:08:15.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you've recently replaced the rear cassette and chain you'll probably need to replace the chain if you buy a new cassette as they 'wear in' together. You might get away with it but you'll soon know if there is a slipping or crunching noise when you put the pressure down when pulling away or climbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a new chain you might also need new middle and small front chainrings on the front if they are excessively warn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw nice bike, those Diamond Backs were quite something back in the late 80s early 90s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21213" LastEditorUserId="21213" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T22:30:03.757" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T22:30:03.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32147" CreationDate="2015-08-22T00:21:00.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a loose bottom bracket. It needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to buy a new bottom bracket, along with two special tools: A crank puller and a bottom-bracket tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your current bottom-bracket is cup-and-cone style (I'm betting it is), it can be removed with basic tools and elbow grease. If it's cartridge style, it can be removed with the BB tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are links to all three at Amazon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005DTIKQE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001A0AIAG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BB tool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001VS1M20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crank puller&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you could take the bike to your LBS and have them handle it. This is a common operation and probably wouldn't cost much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T00:21:00.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32539" CreationDate="2015-08-22T01:17:07.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real difference to look for is the axle width and connection method. A &quot;standard&quot; road bike has a 130mm/10mm rear axle and 100mm/9mm front axle that&#xA;both use a standard quick release. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a set of wheels matches those dimensions and has disk brake compatible hubs, then any difference between road/cyclocross disk will only be in the various&#xA;details of the build and rim width/depth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, many of the newer road/cyclocross bikes with disk brakes are using different axle widths and connection methods. Often the rear hub axle is 135mm/10mm, and many CX bikes are now coming with through axle mounts. These&#xA;kinds of specs were previously only found on mountain bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many hub manufacturers ( especially on the pricy end ) now provide exchangable &#xA;caps to allow you to switch between connection styles. But before you spring &#xA;for those fancy carbon wheels, you should verify that the axle widths/styles&#xA;match your current bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T01:17:07.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23239" CreationDate="2015-08-22T04:25:24.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your serial number description STATES that this is a &quot;Murray of Ohio&quot; manufactured bike. Serial number on bottom bracket means before 1965... the factory was removed from Ohio and located in Tenn. from ~1952 on. The 502 means Sears... check out late 1950s to 1960s catalogs for the 5 digit model number that's between MOD and the lower larger serial number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The man above who ID'd your bike as a JC HIGGINS sold by Sears was telling you correct.... Murray was ONE of the manufacturers of Sears JC Higgins badged bikes... the blue example with basket is right on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Schwinn? NO WAY.... &lt;strong&gt;frame joints&lt;/strong&gt; [where rear stays meat seat post under seat and top down bar from head-tube meats seat post above bottom bracket... see the &quot;collets&quot;?] and even tubing size are not Schwinn work or design [Where two 'down-bars' are joined by small welded tube (and so is Schwinn you found) Your 'welded tube is longer... bars are further apart... than the Schwinn]. I've a zillion Schwinn and a few Murray bikes. One Murray built bike called a Marfield [made for Marshall Field's department store].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear of your frame... behind the drop-out... where one is split... the Murray frame extends about two inches to a point, beyond the drop-out slot. NO ONE else's does... look @ the Schwinn again and that distinction will come alive for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21214" LastEditorUserId="21214" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T04:50:34.847" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T04:50:34.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="45727" CreationDate="2015-08-22T09:26:53.043" Score="3" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked this up along with a couple of old wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know it's age or history. I've only got as far as identifying it as a Sachs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no other markings apart from the logo shown in the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JonOf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JonOf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19542" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T21:17:49.560" Title="Can you identify this Sachs hub?" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-22T09:58:01.733" Score="0" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no words on it, it is a chrome frame and the only markings i found on it were a serial number that reads G1109025563. Is there any way i can get any information on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21218" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T22:49:08.817" Title="How do i figure out the maker of my bike?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-22T14:59:00.547" Score="2" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a commuter bike whose handle bars are too low, causing me to have to lean forward more than I'd like. I do not wish to have sore shoulders or neck pain from riding with my head forward. Would sitting entirely upright help, or should I still have some weight on my arms? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21222" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T23:19:55.567" Title="Handle bar height" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32877" CreationDate="2015-08-22T16:45:17.223" Score="11" ViewCount="6697" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like pretty much everywhere I look, serial numbers can't do the things that it seems they should be able to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can't help people figure out what bike they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can't help at all when recovering a stolen bike, unless you have the bike's number linked to your identity somehow (good luck finding the bike in the first place).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the only thing they're useful for is warranty fulfillment. You take your bike to the shop, and they check the serial number to make sure that it's the same one you bought from them three months ago. Is this the only intended purpose of a serial number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-06-05T05:34:42.003" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T05:34:42.003" Title="What is the purpose of a serial number?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;&lt;canonical-answer&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32872" CreationDate="2015-08-22T17:36:33.373" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common use of serial number is to prove ownership. If you don't have the serial number linked to your identity then that is your problem. My shop registers the serial number. If they don't put it on the receipt then force them to write it on the receipt.  On a used bike write it down and take a picture with your residence in the background. My local police will let you register a bike and they will check serial number of any bikes recovered against that list. Stolen property reports are sent to pawn shops. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You find your bike at a pawn shop.  If you have proof of ownership of THAT bike they will return it to you.  In my state they have to hold property for 2 weeks before selling.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You suspect a neighbor stole your bike and you take a picture of your bike in his / her garage.  Take that to the police and they will investigate.  Without a serial number you cannot prove that is your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see your bike on CraigsList and you call the police.  If police won't meet you then go to the buy take the bike and call the police.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see your bike on eBay and buy it.  Prove to PayPal you bought your stolen bike and they will take action.  eBay does not want to be in the stolen property business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A serial number may not slow them down from stealing it but it sure slows down selling it, aids in recovery, and help convict criminals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common scenario is they will take a van of stolen bikes to another state and sell them there.  I buy a bit on CL and if they have out of town plates I walk. If they cannot give me a credible history on the bike I walk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another user of serial number is fraud detection. Is it even a valid serial number? Is it the correct frame for that serial number? Multiple bikes with the same serial number - definitely some counterfeiting going on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proof the property property was stolen.  If the police raid a garage or warehouse because they suspect goods they have hard evidence that bike is stolen property. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T18:28:43.743" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T18:28:43.743" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32872" CreationDate="2015-08-22T18:12:49.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main function of a serial number is to prove that you own the bike. Just like a VIN number on a car, your serial number helps authorities determine who the lost or stolen bike belongs too. Also, it does help the store you purchased the bike from, as well as the company that made the bike, in keeping track of warranties, who owns the bike, the address where the bike belongs, e.t.c. Think of your serial number the same way as you think of registering your car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, using the serial number for finding out information about the bike such as make, model, year, e.t.c., may work sometimes, but it is not genuinely a reliable way to find out that information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T18:12:49.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32872" CreationDate="2015-08-22T20:01:13.733" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a manufacturer found they had a quality problem with a batch of products (e.g. bikes but equally cameras, phones...) the serial numbers would allow identification of the substandard units. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've recorded the serial number of your bike and a bike thief is caught with bikes in their possession the serial number should help you get it back. This has happened a few times recently around here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T20:01:13.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-22T20:03:28.693" Score="1" ViewCount="1246" Body="&lt;p&gt;What inner tube can I use for a 700x26c tire? It has a Schrader valve. At the stores I went to I found a 700x25c tube &amp;amp; a 700x28c tube. Which tube would be best since I can't find a 700x26c tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21228" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T03:44:58.287" Title="Inner tube size." Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-08-23T05:14:50.127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32870" CreationDate="2015-08-22T20:10:09.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sitting &lt;em&gt;entirely&lt;/em&gt; upright might cause back pain! Ideally, you want your back to have a bit of an arch and your elbows a bit of a bend, to help your back and arms absorb bumps in the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having very little weight over the front axle can make steering feel floaty, and could be an issue under hard braking. Your weight should be comfortably distributed across your hands, feet, and butt on the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, do whatever you find is most comfortable for &lt;em&gt;you...&lt;/em&gt; whatever gets you out and riding! Try adjusting the height of the bars and saddle in small increments until you find what works best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18431" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T20:10:09.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32886" CreationDate="2015-08-22T20:22:31.570" Score="14" ViewCount="1423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious, has anyone gone on bicycle tours with small children? I did some long-distance camping touring a while ago and would like to do more eventually. For the moment, though, we have a toddler, so a long trip isn't really realistic. But it does seem feasible to ride 50mi or so, camp overnight, and ride home the next day. I'm imagining riding with a toddler in a trailer, but if there are better ideas, I'm all ears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with short tours like this? Are there any things to keep in mind that might not be obvious right off the bat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7741" LastActivityDate="2018-05-02T17:33:39.747" Title="Touring with little kids?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;kids&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32872" CreationDate="2015-08-22T20:38:59.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a cycle stolen, the copper (I'm in England!) who came to take the statement, wasn't at all interested in taking the serial number, he reckoned they're never recovered / returned that way and a photo of it was far more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it was initially stolen, I couldn't find the booklet I'd written the serial number in, so I called the supplier (one of the big online places) and they told me they didn't track serial numbers and there was no way to find it out if I didn't make a note of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think they have a lot more to do with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Security_theater&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;security theatre&lt;/a&gt; than actual security. It makes us feel like they're less likely to be stolen, without providing any real protection against. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19723" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T20:38:59.097" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32878" CreationDate="2015-08-22T21:55:35.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most inner tubes do not cover an exactly specific size such as 25c or 28c or anything like that. Any tube I've ever used has had something of a variety of tyre sizes which they can mold too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, with the size you're looking for, you would most likely find tubes rated to fit size 23c-28c, possibly even something like 25c-30c. I myself have 28c tyres and my inner tubes are ranged from 28c-35c. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So depending on the type of tyre/tube combination you are using, I don't see why you would have a problem finding something that will work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an example picture of what you should see on the tube/packaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cde0y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cde0y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastEditorUserId="10584" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T03:44:58.287" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T03:44:58.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32880" CreationDate="2015-08-22T22:26:16.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pursuing this might not be totally impossible, but you should probably have a sit down and really contemplate the effort you will need to put into this. For starters, depending on the age of your child, you're going to need diapers, clothes, food, entertainment, a decent sized trailer, all of your regular touring gear, and extra emergency equipment such as first aid, bike maintenance, and child care. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the massive load you're going to have, you should also consider how your child will react to all that time spent in such a small space. If you need to bring toys/books/electronics with you, that will add to your over all weight, as well as bringing up the fact that if you are bringing electronically devices for them, how will you charge them? A bike battery pack is expensive, as well as adding more weight to your load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how old the child is, you will quickly find out how many times you are going to have to stop and care for the child. A ride that takes you a few hours by yourself could easily take you all day, or even longer, when your child is with you. Not to mention carrying all of your supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prepare for any kind of weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have an emergency plan in case of, (and I hate to bring it up), any accidents on the road, bike malfunction, possible outdoor area hazards, e.t.c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list goes on and on, but the basic fact is that it will not be nearly as easy as you think it will be. I would suggest taking your child on test rides and see how things go. And, being a toddler, you have to take into account that the longer they are in the trailer, the less they will want to be in it. With all the hassle of your load, the traveling, and a very grumpy toddler, the trip could turn into more than you bargained for in the blink of an eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T22:26:16.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32870" CreationDate="2015-08-22T23:19:55.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own several bikes that all have different stems lengths and angles. The geometry of each bike is different due to the age of the bike and the type of riding. I purchased an adjustable stem. I got it used for about $15. They are available new for about $25. I only use it to figure out what stem will be comfortable. I can change the angle and move the spacers from below the stem to above it, to simulate different lengths. I can then purchase a stem with close to the same dimensions. Several friends have used it with decent results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T23:19:55.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32880" CreationDate="2015-08-22T23:42:58.913" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have the right idea - build up slowly. I've seen a few people with little kids out cycle touring, and did a couple of weeks with a group that included a mother and pre-walking infant. The people below apparently managed at least 1000km based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://moz.geek.nz/mozbike/ride/nz-2005/01-17-geraldine/nztour-geraldine-01-moz.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moz's comments&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4JGTT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4JGTT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Moz photo of touring family&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the main limit is how long your kids can handle being on the bike or in the trailer. Remember that your kids are not exercising, so they'll get cold easily. And bored, unless they can see out easily. Ideally you'd be able to make eye contact and talk to them, and not just by having the other parent ride up next to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days I'd be tempted to buy one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.longjohn.org/galerie/galerie_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;long john&lt;/a&gt; kiddy carrier bikes (like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gazellebicycles.com.au/gazelle-bicycles/gazelle-modern-city-bikes/cabby-detail&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gazelle Cabby&lt;/a&gt;), because a kid in an open-top box is likely to be happier than one in a noisy bag-on-wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But start with the gear you have - drop the kid(s) in whatever you normally use to transport them, go for a long day ride, see what happens. If you all  survive 80km today and 80km tomorrow, an 80km each way overnight trip sounds very feasible. Just keep working up and see how you go. I'd personally start with backyard camping, because if your kids hate that then you will need to tour between motels or B&amp;amp;B's, and you really want to find that out now rather after 80km of riding. Same applies to your fellow parent, BTW :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a big fan of specialised bikes, and if you have the budget there are a lot of ideas out there that you can try and buy. Trailers are a compromise, they're slow, heavy, have lots of wind resistance, and are not a lot of fun to be stuck inside for long periods. For a bit more money you could buy a dedicated long-tail bike, and that's at least more comfortable for the kid as well as lighter and faster (plus easier to park!). Then there are proper load carrying bikes like long johns and the 8-Freight. Those carry more and have more load space, so you get a trailer-sized volume of luggage and child, but in a place you can see it. Even bigger are load trikes (Nihola &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; Christiana for touring, the cart-axle steering only works at low speeds and for short trips), or things like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greenspeed.com.au/newsletter4.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Greenspeed Ute&lt;/a&gt; (recumbent) or a rickshaw like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trisled.com.au/utility-quad.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trisled Ute&lt;/a&gt; (upright). But real load carrying needs four wheels, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treehugger.com/bikes/13-quadracycles-four-wheeled-bike-round-up.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Treehugger has an overview&lt;/a&gt;. Quads are unfortunately expensive and not especially popular, so tend tyo go in and out of production. But the smaller manufacturers will often build you one even if it's not on their website any more, so it's worth asking. In the UK they're lucky enough to have dedicated recumbent and load bike shops, but in the USA not so much (AFAIK).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally do short tours on a recumbent bike (because it's easier to break it down for transport), and longer tours (anything over a week) on a four wheeler. Mine is 2WD for off road tracks, but other than that it's just a conventional recumbent with a big box on the back for all my stuff. The win for me is stability (I can look at the scenery), load capacity (I just throw everything in the box) and, well, I just really like riding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10584" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T23:42:58.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32880" CreationDate="2015-08-23T00:48:03.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with short distances and gradually increase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then when the family is into the routine of bike trips, add a picnic stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then find a nice camping location, either near home or near where you park the car, and ride by a longer route to get there. This way if something unplanned happens you are not far away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure the kid(s) have fun. Perhaps plan a few interesting/play stops along the way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, with little kids, get into practice with taking as little as possible. For example when my kids were in nappies  (diapers for Americans) we could take them for an afternoon trip with one bag. It measured 20 cm (8 in) X 15 cm (6 in) X 20 cm. The main extra stuff we took with them for ski touring was a change of clothes and food. Lots of food. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course take the kind of equipment that you'd normally take on a bike tour. But get going, before they want to ride every where themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T00:48:03.793" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-23T00:49:32.050" Score="-2" ViewCount="4737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Shimano M785 hydraulic disc brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is easy to remove the pads and put them back in again even with the disc in place. However, resetting the brake pistons is tricky. I currently use a butter knife and two hands, which mostly works but is very awkward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the directions I've seen for resetting pistons (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/29537/&quot;&gt;for example&lt;/a&gt;)  call for removing the wheel. I'd would like to avoid this step if it's not essential; it transforms pad replacement or access to the pistons from a quick 5-minute job to one that requires a workstand and may be dirty due to chain contact. For example, this is relevant when diagnosing issues that require resetting the pads more than once, or perhaps in a shop where time is money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a tool or technique that will let me do it easily without removing the wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4175" LastEditorUserId="4175" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T02:47:07.483" LastActivityDate="2017-01-19T07:13:23.133" Title="How can I reset hydraulic brake pistons without removing the wheel?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14818" CreationDate="2015-08-23T05:53:58.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a 32tpi hacksaw blade with a miter box from IKEA that they sell to cut their ceiling hanging curtain rail to keep my cut perpendicular to the bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a bit tougher cutting than I expected. But patience and no problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll echo the caution of carbon fiber dust. I sprayed the area with water and I still got &quot;cotton&quot; at the back of my throat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But no fraying and some 150 grit sandpaper helped smooth the edges. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21235" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T06:56:00.500" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T06:56:00.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31160" CreationDate="2015-08-23T07:41:13.297" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The presta valve has a tube, a threaded pin and a lock nut.&#xA;Your pin won't move down and you hit it with the pump - and rightly so!&#xA;Try lubricating the pin with WD40 - ensure the locknut (silver in your pic) is unscrewed all the way (lefty - loosey, righty - tighty!)&#xA;The WD40 may dissolve any 'gunk' that is stopping the pin from moving down under air (or hammer) pressure.&#xA;Otherwise, time for a new tube!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21239" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T07:41:13.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-23T12:42:18.440" Score="2" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;As is known for Shimano sealed bottom bracket cartages (e.g. page 16 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.bg/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;ved=0CCoQFjABahUKEwjB1ZHYm7_HAhXIVhQKHd5IBTk&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fsi.shimano.com%2Fphp%2Fdownload.php%3Ffile%3Dpdf%2Fdm%2FDM-FC0002-02-A-ENG.pdf&amp;amp;ei=-b3ZVYH1DsitUd6RlcgD&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGC6Su21wTdCk8PVk5DpHVpwxd0xA&amp;amp;sig2=5tJC4PxO9Ha43vgtFdW3wQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), if the BB cup is made out of metal, grease should be applied to the frame-cup thread. If the cup is plastic, grease should not be applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is what is the purpose of applying grease?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, I have heard of a couple of explanations, none of which I can prove or disprove. Firstly, to prevent difficult removal of the cups due to corrosion of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_welding&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cold welding&lt;/a&gt;. And secondly, to prevent intrusion of water and contaminants through the threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T14:38:01.837" Title="What is the purpose of greasing BB threads?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32891" CreationDate="2015-08-23T13:09:35.387" Score="9" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To prevent galvanic corrosion. When grease is appied, there is a thin film of grease that prevent direct contact between two different metal. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To prevent water and contaminants, especially salt in the winter season, that would otherwise accelerates corrosion as discussed in (1)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This will not work with plastic or carbon fiber (+epoxy as matrix) materials as grease will reduce the material's strength over time, i.e. epoxy on carbon fibre is weakened.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T14:38:01.837" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T14:38:01.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32853" CreationDate="2015-08-23T13:57:33.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are asking only tyre pressure, I would put 90 psi minimum riding it wet condition. Running a lower pressure increase the risk of snake-bite puncture, side wall split/cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, more important factors regarding traction upon cornering are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Operation of the rider inappropriate for road condition. For example, 20 mph on sharp wet corner bend, panic braking when cornering, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weight distributed to the front: the more weight put onto the front wheel, the higher limit of friction the front wheel can handle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Type of tyre: better rolling resistance usually associated with poorer traction. You can see some tyre having two bands laterally, in addition to a slick in the middle; these are created to improve cornering.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the importance of tyre pressure in gaining traction is really minimal in comparison to other factors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is similar to winter tyre and summer tyre on car, you can get better traction by deflating summer tyre but never get it to be as good as winter one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T13:57:33.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32853" CreationDate="2015-08-23T14:44:34.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The short answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you &lt;em&gt;usually keep them around 90psi&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's a key point that you don't say that you checked them and they were definitely at 90 psi (6 atm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cornering at speed is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; dangerous. You need your tires to be &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt; so that they do not deform, and you need proper technique. Your tires need to be at &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt; 90 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding technique ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At speed you must lean with the bike. You lean the bike to make it corner, rather than steer it. At these speeds your weight should be evenly distributed between handlebars and pedals: no weight on your seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should look &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; the corner, so that you know what you're doing next, and to keep a calm, neutral position on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approach new corners with care. It's not a race. On a public road a crash can cost your life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to answer your question - my tires are at 8 atm right now - 120 psi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The long answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are four key components of cornering: your speed, your technique, and the tires and their grip on the surface (and that's omitting others, such as frame geometry). Unfortunately, misinformation on each are common. So don't take everything you read on these topics as Gospel (or Torah, or Koran, or Whatever-floats-your-boat). Evaluate each source, including this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of the four components interact with the other, so any discussion of them quickly gets complicated. This is part of the reason for the plethora of misinformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But first we need to be clear about how a bicycle actually works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Balance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you learned to ride a bike, you learned how to keep the wheels under you. As the bike and you lean to one side, you steer in that direction to get the point where your wheels contact the road under your center of gravity. It's easier to keep your balance as you ride faster, because the bike responds to your steering movements faster. You can see evidence of this when two riders go through a wet patch and onto a dry road. The faster rider leaves a very straight trail. It does wiggle, as the rider adjusts to small deviations, but not much. The slower rider leaves a wriggly trail, as the bike slowly swoops from side to side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Speed and Technique&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed and cornering technique go hand in hand. As you gradually increase your cornering speed, your cornering technique gradually changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start by assuming the surface is clean, dry bitumen, and that the corner is open, such as riding in an empty supermarket carpark. You can choose how sharply to turn, you can see all the way through the corner, and you know where you'll go after the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your speed and previous experience with the grip of your tires on &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt; surface determines your cornering technique. Accordingly you may brake hard as you approach the corner, brake gently, or not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with a low speed corner, where you don't need to brake. As a kid, you learned the technique for these corners - it's called &lt;em&gt;counter steering&lt;/em&gt;, where you turn a little &lt;em&gt;away&lt;/em&gt; from the corner in order to move your weight slightly to the inside. When your weight is to one side of where the tires contact the road, you have to turn in that direction to keep your balance. When you get to the end of the corner, you actually turn a little harder to get the wheels under you again, so that you can ride straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you increase your speed, the movement you make to initiate the turn doesn't need to be as great. You can just &lt;em&gt;lean&lt;/em&gt; into the turn. This is where some of the misinformation appears. In order to lean, you do counter-steer &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt;. It's natural, once you've learned to ride a bike. But many talk of counter-steering as though it's some special technique that should be consciously applied. When we counter-steer, we deviate from a straight path. Anyone near us is now at risk - if you are riding in a group you can cause a crash this way. The term &lt;em&gt;counter-steering&lt;/em&gt; actually comes from motoring, where the vehicle has so much power that it corners in a controlled power-slide. On a bicycle we don't have that much power. So ignore advice to counter-steer. You're already doing it. Try to do it less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as you increase your speed, you need to lean more to balance the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;centrifugal force&lt;/a&gt; as you turn. As you lean the bike (and ever so slightly steer), the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2011/02/the-geometry-of-bike-handling/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;geometry&lt;/a&gt; of your bike changes the angle at which your tires meet the road. The grip of your tires on the surface produces the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centripetal_force&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;centripetal force&lt;/a&gt; that pushes you around the corner. More on this in the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Grip&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; section below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are going fast enough to be noticeably leaning as you corner, your need for more techniques appears. You will have rapidly learned that if you have the inside pedal down then it can hit the road, called &lt;em&gt;pedal strike&lt;/em&gt;. In the worst case, this can lift one or both wheels off the road. Of course, your wheels don't have much grip in the air, and so the common result is a fall. So many go to the other extreme, and say you should have your outside pedal down. This is how you see the pro's do it. It looks good. Stylish. But they are (mostly) highly skilled riders, with bike control skills most of us can only dream of. For mere mortals, I suggest we get off the seat for high speed corners, to distribute our weight evenly between the wheels, and to feel and possibly react to what the bike is doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other basic fast cornering technique is to &lt;em&gt;look through the corner&lt;/em&gt;. Which just to means look where you're going next, instead of the nice person on the footpath, or the road in front of your wheels. The only time to look down at the road is to avoid an obstacle. The point is that you'll go where you look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's basic speed and technique. If you think they are controversial, poorly understood, or with conflicting advice, take a look at ... Grip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Grip&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grip. Rolling resistance. Tire pressure. Contact area. Gravel. Water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These term all get mixed together when we talk about grip. So again, lets start simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a bicycle, we have one main kind of grip. It's called &lt;a href=&quot;http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/frict2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;static friction&lt;/a&gt;, because as your tires roll, at the point where your tire meets the road, it's not moving &lt;em&gt;relative to the road&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a dry, clean road, the amount of static friction you get depends on one thing - the force (or weight) you apply. So contact area does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; alter your grip. This is, to put it mildly, counter-intuitive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Static friction is important because it's always greater than the alternative - dynamic or kinetic friction. This difference means that once you start sliding, you're gone. Unless you have some &lt;em&gt;amazing&lt;/em&gt; skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do you maximize your static friction? By keeping your tires firmly in contact with the road surface. And that means tire pressure (and also even weight mentioned above). Your tires need to have enough internal pressure to resist deforming under the forces of cornering. If they deform, then they lose that firm contact. They lose grip. And then you're gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But why do we all use lower pressure when it's wet? And why do cars and trucks have wide tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When our tires slide we observe dynamic or kinetic friction. We all know that this increases &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=friction+as+a+function+of+area&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as a function of area&lt;/a&gt;, but good online sources are hard to identify. Tires with a larger contact patch grip more &lt;em&gt;when sliding&lt;/em&gt; because the edges of treads and rough road surface features interlock as the tire moves over them, and the rubber surface squeezes around the road roughness. But this grip is always lower than static friction. We lower our tire pressure when it's wet to increase our kinetic friction. If don't lower the pressure too much we will still retain decent static grip. Since we'll ride a bit more cautiously in the wet, the trade is worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that explains why cars have wide tires. What about trucks? Trucks have wide tires to spread the load on the road surface. The road surface can only support a certain level of pressure before it deforms. In &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=friction+as+a+function+of+area#q=maximum+road+load+per+axle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;maximum road load per axle&lt;/a&gt; you can see that many jurisdictions limit the maximum wheel load to 650 or 700 lb per inch of tire width. So trucks have wide tires to avoid ruining the roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/32919/8273&quot;&gt;Daniel&lt;/a&gt; points out, there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a limit to grip. Oil, water, dirt, and sand all reduce your grip. If you don't have enough grip for the turn you're attempting the result is a fall. &lt;em&gt;Sometimes&lt;/em&gt; a rider can stay upright when the wheels are sliding, but it's more a matter of luck than skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pump your tires up to near the maximum pressure written on the side wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T12:40:36.900" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32854" CreationDate="2015-08-23T14:58:36.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The charging bit is not easily done. Most bicycle dynamos / dynohubs produce 6 VAC (the actual voltage varies depending on speed; if they follow the German StVZO requirements, they produce at least 3 watts). The nominal 6 VAC is relatively easy to rectify to 5VDC for a USB charger, but in order to charge a 12VDC battery, you would need to rectify and step it up to 13.2 VDC. You'd most probably have to build the circuit yourself as I do not know of any off-the-shelf devices that will do this (there are IC chips that will do this, but you'd have to build the circuit yourself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you could do is to charge a 5VDC USB lithium-ion battery pack (using a variation of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://m.instructables.com/id/USB-Bike-Generator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;USB Bike Generator circuit&lt;/a&gt;) and then use a 5VDC-&gt;12VDC step-up to power the horn (or to get a 5 or 6 VDC horn).  It would be much smaller and lighter than a 12VDC lead-acid battery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately if for some reason you're set on lead-acid, you could get a 6VDC lead-acid battery. The charging voltage for these is 6.6 VDC so it'd still be a bit tough to get your dynohub to charge it safely and efficiently, but it's doable. There are as I said, 5VDC horns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/dynohubs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/dynohubs.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/shimano3n70.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/shimano3n70.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/verlichting/stvzo/index_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/verlichting/stvzo/index_en.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T00:13:17.970" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T00:13:17.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32896" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-23T15:44:30.187" Score="7" ViewCount="607" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any technical limitations that make 3D printing frames impractical?  And, if it is just a matter of time before our technology is able to overcome any limitations (like manufacturing techniques and processes), will 3D printed frames theoretically be better in so far as they will be able to be made with exact thicknesses, tolerances, etc. and also be lighter in weight?  I'm interested in the implications for the common frame metals - steel, aluminum and titanium - as well as carbon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2020-11-18T17:11:03.753" Title="3D printing frames?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32896" CreationDate="2015-08-23T16:23:54.073" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;3D printing have many disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Materials cost and strength: although new materials has been made over the years to reduce the cost, it is still quite expensive for mass production. In our department, a good material would cost £10/g, and the cheapest is around £1/g (very porous and fragile).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Labour cost: it takes time to CAD a small part, but it takes even more time to clean/wash/polish the final parts. For complex part(s), there is a need for filler which could be dissolve at the later stage. This filler dissolution process would take a day and is expensive for mass production (effective time for one part).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replaceable parts: without an established market, the cost for parts would be sky-high.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, 3D printing is very successful in prototyping/customizing. This is because the price has been driven down to the point it is the same as if you make a prototype with conventional materials (metal, plastic). Simple and readily-available materials, zero skill requirements for machining contribute to this lower cost. This does not apply in larger scale (where machines replace human labour) and so 3D printing loses advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, it is still much easier and cheaper to CNC parts from conventional materials than to 3D-print a part, given the technology and market right now. If one has to produce a prototype, I always advise the person to try CNC machining before 3D-printing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T21:58:23.253" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T21:58:23.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32899" CreationDate="2015-08-23T17:08:49.423" Score="2" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've burst my third tyre in two months on my MTB, each time it's caused by something sharp penetrating my tyre at high speed ripping a big enough hole in the tube causing the slime to leak out rapidly followed by a struggle to maintain control of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I've considered permatubes, but read that they add a lot of weight to the MTB and are rock hard, so the ride will be extra hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some sort of middle ground? Permatubes are rock hard, but will never put me in a position where I have to walk the last 15km of a 40km trail, normal tubes I can inflate / deflate depending on whether I cycle on road or offroad, but it seems slime is not enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20963" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:30:30.390" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:30:30.390" Title="What is the middleground between permatube and normal tubes?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32898" CreationDate="2015-08-23T18:18:46.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Permutube are not good to ride on  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Middle ground is a heavier puncture resistant tire if you are running racing tires  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spare tubeS, tire patch, tube patches, and a pump.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubeless has a lower risk of failure but field repair is harder (you can put a tube in a tubeless).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T19:05:08.200" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T19:05:08.200" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21488" CreationDate="2015-08-23T21:38:19.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hub you posted allows you to use standard track cogs, so you should easily be able to swap your 16T cog in and replace whatever it comes with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21245" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T21:38:19.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29632" CreationDate="2015-08-23T21:45:04.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of these answers are valid, but before you go through the trouble of heating your frame, using nasty chemicals, or anything else, there is a far simpler method that often does the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a dumpy saddle you don't mind bending and install it in the seat post.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp the saddle in a bench top vice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the entire bike frame as a lever, turn the bike. Doing this you may be able to break the corrosion that is locking your seat post in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If this doesn't work&lt;/em&gt;, go down the line of more extreme options like heat, chemicals, cutting and chiseling, etc... If its that bad though I would encourage you to go to your local bike shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21245" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T21:45:04.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32869" CreationDate="2015-08-23T22:49:08.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;90% chance its a generic BSO.  If you have a distinct feature, post a photo and someone might recognise it, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do you want to bother identifying the maker?  You already have a frame that will have certain dimensions or bearing sizes.  There's little if anything to be gained from buying parts from the manufacturer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best tools are likely to be a vernier caliper and a thread gauge, to find specs for parts you might need to make frame into a whole bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T22:49:08.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32854" CreationDate="2015-08-23T23:36:22.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're on the wrong track looking at batteries because they're heavy, stealable, fragile, and bad ecologically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, you already have an airhorn installed in the middle of your face.  Its steerable so it always sounds in the direction you're looking.&#xA;Plus it needs no batteries, and best of all it plays a customised noise, from &quot;OI!&quot; to &quot;LOOK OUT!&quot; to &quot;STOP!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was a serious suggestion, but if you want a horn consider an airhorn something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://deltacycle.com/airzound-horn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://deltacycle.com/airzound-horn&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It refills from a bike pump and is lighter than a battery, plus no drag from a generator/alternator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own experience - I put a small 1.2AH 12V battery inside a disposable 600 ml bottle, and used a small car battery charger to charge it.   I also put a car 12V--&gt;USB adapter in the mouth of the bottle to run my camera and cellphone.  This worked well, but loses a drink cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My electric bike has 3x 7AH SLA batteries.  They are in a frame built from light angle aluminium and rivets.  This replaces the main drink bottle cage and works fine, but probably overkill for your requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T23:36:22.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32905" CreationDate="2015-08-23T23:42:54.590" Score="6" ViewCount="1216" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes a volume of air to seat a tubeless.  Even if you lube the tire it takes a volume of air to get it to pop onto the seat. &#xA;Cannot deliver that volume with my floor pump. &#xA;At the shop they remove the core to the presta and have this conversion tube they put over the open stem with a compressor on the other end.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T00:02:43.303" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T18:05:55.053" Title="Get a tubeless to seat" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32904" CreationDate="2015-08-24T00:02:07.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Need to have a compressor.  Remove the core then just press a schrader fill up end on the stem.  I have had to take a couple to the shop and this worked for me today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more a problem on older tires where I break the seal to add sealant.  I am gong to buy an injector so I can add sealant without breaking the seal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T09:51:32.597" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T09:51:32.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32904" CreationDate="2015-08-24T00:19:56.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a compressor, you can use a CO2 cartridge (or two or three) inflator to quickly give that burst of air/CO2 that you need to seat the tubeless. It's very difficult with a floor pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7h6N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;CO2 inflator&quot;&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:CO2_inflator.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikimedia commons&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T00:19:56.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T00:56:00.867" Score="1" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would need to replace my derailleurs and I would like to upgrade both front and back.  Front is triple 30, 40, 50 and rear is 13 throught 30.  Both are Shimano Altus A10  with Rapidfire Plus shifters.  What would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21247" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T13:16:49.887" Title="Cannondale H400 1993 derailleurs" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-10-21T15:22:20.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32859" CreationDate="2015-08-24T01:01:09.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be easy to replace your wheel. The wheel is a 26&quot; (this is a standard mountain bike size wheel), and you will also need to match it to the right cassette. from looking at your bike, its likely a 7 or 8 speed cassette. Your local bike shop should be able to tell what size cassette you need based on your rear deraileur, which wasn't stolen. With wheel, tire and cassette you are probably looking at a $100+ repair if you buy it all new. If there is a local bike co-op in your area that can help you with used parts and labor then you can probably do this for $30-50. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21245" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T01:01:09.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32935" CreationDate="2015-08-24T01:41:23.720" Score="10" ViewCount="1379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to get a pair of pedal-powered head &amp;amp; tail lights to get my husband as a gift. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He commutes ~11mi roundtrip every day to/from work. In summer, he rides a Cannondale touring bike. In winter he is riding a very old Mongoose he has had since he was a teenager (that one will eventually be replaced). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We live in Buffalo, NY so he rides through all weather you can imagine and of course snow is the worst. He currently uses a couple if cheap lights that run on rechargeable AA batteries and he has to charge them every few days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I want to get him a pair of lights that are powered by the pedals. I have looked online and I'm so confused by what I find. I don't know what are positive features, what is important, what to avoid ... I know it's important that they work well in the snow and other inclement weather as those are the most important times to be as visible as possible as to see as clearly around you while riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you advise me please? Or least tell me what I should be looking for and why? And [added by editor] is replacing his battery powered lights the best way of doing the job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What specs are important. What's a good price range. Any information will be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21249" LastEditorUserId="21249" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T10:58:13.183" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T01:21:57.963" Title="Pedal-powered head/tail lights" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;headlights&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32904" CreationDate="2015-08-24T01:54:58.797" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what type of tubeless standard you are using. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UST&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UST rims are designed to be able to be inflated with a floor pump. The rim profile has an inner channel. The tyre bead should be placed in this as per the picture when you begin inflating the tyre. When it reaches a high enough pressure it pops into place and you can continue to seat it easily with the pump. You can also add sealant before inflating with USTs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qTMiQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qTMiQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tubeless Ready&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubeless Ready have a shallower rim bed that require far less volume to inflate with a floor or CO2 cartridge. This is trickier with a floor pump and people often remove the valve core to allow a higher volume of air in. Once the tyre is suited you can also to remove the core to add sealant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ghetto Setups&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using any other tyre/ rim combination it's really just luck if you're going to get a tyre to seat with floor pump, compressed air or ever at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T01:54:58.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32909" CreationDate="2015-08-24T02:07:56.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycles do have dynamo powered lights, which are pedal powered. They used to have a small generator that was rotated by the tyre. But this has been replaced by 'dynanmo hubs', with the generator being attached to the wheel hub. This basically means getting a wheel buildt around the hub or buying a wheel which has this type of hub, which would be fairly expensive. The one dynamo can power both front and back lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear lights don't need to put out as much power as front ones. The batteries should last for several months of normal use in blink or flashing mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the front lights you may want to look at a better quality one that has several brightness settings. But you wont get much more than 6 hours burn time from them. Keeping a spare set of charged up batteries can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastEditorUserId="20322" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T11:38:08.153" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T11:38:08.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T04:45:51.020" Score="4" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I need to clear a missing pothole or a slippery section of the trail, I try to make the hop as long-distance as possible. The result is that, unlike when hopping &lt;em&gt;onto&lt;/em&gt; something elevated, now I push the bike forward while in the air in order to &quot;place&quot; it as far as possible forward. The drawback is that I am getting closer to falling off the back of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this smart? What other techniques exist for jumping the furthest at fixed approach speed?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T04:47:41.630" Title="How to perform a long-distance bunny-hop?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;technique&gt;&lt;jumping&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17530" CreationDate="2015-08-24T04:51:19.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use 268mm spokes for a three cross semi-tangenial spoke pattern wheel on our deep rims (which are similar to Velocity b43 rims), however you're using a 30mm deep rim, so I suggest 280mm spokes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21252" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T05:45:18.287" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T05:45:18.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32909" CreationDate="2015-08-24T05:37:55.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get lights that are powered by a dynamo (generator) in the front hub. Combined with bright LED front and rear lights you get excellent visibility (both seeing and being seen) and very little maintenance. The downside is that the equipment is not inexpensive – figure you'll need to spend at least $250 US for a front wheel, headlight and taillight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal opinion is that dynamo light are a &lt;strong&gt;huge&lt;/strong&gt; improvement over battery lights – because you don't have to worry about batteries running down or loosing capacity in cold weather. Not having to worry about batteries means that you can run the lights all the time too. The downsides of dynamo lights are that you take a small hit in terms of drag (the power it takes to run the lights) and that they are harder to remove. The latter means that your bike is a bit more of a target for thieves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dynamo lights are common in Europe and good ones will likely exceed German specs – from the bit of research that I did before buying my lights the German specs don't require a very bright headlight. I ride a lot on unlit roads and &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; appreciate a much brighter light, the brightness also helps keep the road visible when there are oncoming cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do a fair bit of night riding and good lights completely transform the experience. For reference here's what I'm using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.intelligentdesigncycles.com/product/idc-stout-wheelset-silver&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;IDC Stout front wheel&lt;/a&gt; – a good enough, solidly built, wheel using a Sanyo NH-H27 dynamo hub ($95 on e-bay). It was a gamble, so (2,500 km) far I'm well pleased. It flickers a bit more than the SON hub on our tandem, but for the price I've got nothing to complain about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&amp;amp;m-hl.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Busch &amp;amp; Müller Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo T Senso Plus&lt;/a&gt; - a bright, wide LED headlight with a stand light (a capacitor in the light that provides power to keep the light going for several minutes when you're stopped) and a daytime light pattern that makes you visible to cars in the daylight – this really helps when you're in and out of shadows ($104 from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peter White Cycles&lt;/a&gt;). Busch &amp;amp; Müller makes some less expensive lights but the Cyo is exceptional for range and beam width. The beam width is really nice when you're cornering in the dark. Range keeps you safe at speed. For anyone who rides on dark roads the Cyo is about the best light for the money. You can spend a bit less for a version without the daytime running light feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are more concerned with &lt;strong&gt;being seen&lt;/strong&gt; than with &lt;strong&gt;seeing&lt;/strong&gt; some of the lower powered lights might be a good choice. The Busch &amp;amp; Müller Eyc (US $72 with the daytime running light, $66 without) puts out a very bright, but narrow beam (range is comparable to the Cyo, but you don't get to see as much on the sides). They also make a light called the Avy (US $42 without the daytime running light feature, US $56 with), which I haven't ridden with, but which sounds like it might be a good city light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/taillights.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Busch &amp;amp; Müller Toplight Line Brake Plus&lt;/a&gt; – a big, bright, rack mounted tail light with a &amp;quot;brake light&amp;quot; feature. The dynamo puts out AC and the tail light monitors the frequency of the AC, which is proportional to the speed of the bike, when the frequency drops the light glows brighter ($49 from Peter White Cycles, there is also a version for $34 without the brake light feature). The nice thing about this light is that the illuminated area is wide (3 or 4 inches) and seems to help drivers judge distance to your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peter White is the US importer for Busch &amp;amp; Müller lights and is very knowledgeable about them – and they seem to have about the best prices on them. He also has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;photos comparing the beam patterns&lt;/a&gt; on his website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to reduce cost a bit is with a [sidewall dynamo][6] (aka bottle generator). These cost about the same amount as a low-end hub generator (US $50 plus a mount which runs $10 to $15) and save the cost of building a wheel. The downside of the sidewall dynamos is that they require friction on the tire sidewall and may slip in icy conditions. Ideally the tire will be built with a reinforced sidewall for longevity. Some of the better models have a choice of drive wheels so that you can use a more aggressive one in the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T00:00:21.603" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32912" CreationDate="2015-08-24T05:41:55.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you mention fixed speed, your remaining options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;higher bunnyhop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;late bunnyhop (as late as possible)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;land with the bike pushed (as you mention)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T05:41:55.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32888" CreationDate="2015-08-24T05:42:34.730" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it is not worth trying it. You risk contaminating, scratching, or bending your rotors, as well as scratching or cracking a brake pad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider also whether there are bigger problems with your bike setup if it's too much hassle to remove your rear wheel to change your brake pads — how often does that happen: every 2–3 thousand kilometres? Is there something complicating the process that you've not told us? Is this perhaps an electric motorbike? Or is it a belt drive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastEditorUserId="4175" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T04:19:34.727" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T04:19:34.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2544" CreationDate="2015-08-24T07:17:51.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been researching this question in order to be able to adjust my self-adjusting brakes ;) So I'll report my findings here. I can't vouch for the accuracy since I am no bike technician.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pistons are floating freely and are surrounded by seals. If there was nothing holding a piston back it would be possible to pump the brakes until it popped out of the caliper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engaging the lever pushes the piston further out and releasing it again lets the seal retract, which will in turn retract the piston somewhat (enough to release the brake).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to adjust this type of brake, all you have to do is to push the piston further out, i.e slide it out so that the seal sits further back on the piston body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under normal operation the piston only moves with the seal and does not move relative the seal. When the pads are worn enough, however, the pistons will slide futher out relative the seal, simply because they aren't held back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you already noticed, the system needs more fluid if the pistons slide out. This is solved by means of a reservoir. When the system is in rest and the main cylinder is retracted, the lines are in direct contact with the reservoir through holes called timing ports. This connection will neutralize any pressure differences and thereby fill the lines. When the lever is actuated, the main cylinder passes the timing ports. After this point the system acts like a closed one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem was that the system didn't want to auto-adjust. The gap between the pad and the rotor on one side was a bit too large. What you can do in this situation is to over-actuate the pistons a bit (which will force them to slide relative the seals), and push them back to where you want them. This way they will sit better relative the seals, giving you the right range of motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This procedure is called &quot;advancing the pad position&quot; in old Avid instruction manuals. The new ones don't have it since they are supposed to auto-adjust (but don't always do). Google it and you will find detailed instructions. But basically what you do is remove the caliper from its mount, push the pads until they almost meet (leave about 1mm), push them back to fit the rotor, and re-mount (which will also re-center the caliper). Made a big difference on my brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21216" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T07:17:51.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32909" CreationDate="2015-08-24T09:31:53.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pedal power can be a roller that goes against the wheel a dynamo in the hub.  The power generators against the wheel are not very efficient and I do NOT recommend them.  A dynamo in the hub is efficient but it is not cheap and requires a new wheel or a rebuild of an existing wheel.  A decent dynamo with lights is going to be over $100 and closer to $200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with a pedal power (dynamo) is that it is on one bike or the other.  For sure you don't want to put a new dynamo hub on the old Mongoose.  You cannot even share a wheel between those bikes as I am pretty sure the Mongoose is as 26&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated by others tail lights are low power and last a while.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider a lithium ion light.  Still have to charge it but it can be moved from one bike to the other easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe even two lithium ion lights for two mounts, two batteries, and two chargers (one for the office). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikelightdatabase.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Lights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T15:26:44.357" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T15:26:44.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32853" CreationDate="2015-08-24T12:31:00.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think one point has been kind of glossed over:  There is a limit to what sort of turn you can make at 20 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The force available from static friction must be greater than the centrifugal force you're generating in making the turn -- the sharper the turn, the greater the centrifugal force, for a given speed.  If centrifugal force exceeds frictional force then your tire slides out from under you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the geometry of the surface can have an effect.  A very slight slope to the surface would be inconsequential when going straight but can severely compromise the force from static friction when turning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, the slightest amount of sand, gravel, or oil on the surface changes the picture completely (and I've rarely seen a surface free of these contaminants).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing that your main problem was that you simply took the corner too fast, with too sharp of a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T12:31:00.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32912" CreationDate="2015-08-24T13:24:07.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a light weight bike and a pedal like &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/191413412713-0-1/s-l1000.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; might help you :)&#xA;AFAIK a best way to make a bunny hope is to start with a correct procedure.&#xA;Low your breast on the handlebars, then push it upwards and when the time to make the rear fly arrives, link your feet on your pedals (with the teeth on it) as strong as you can and push them back.&#xA;Your legs should bring on hair the bike, but your feet should be linked to the pedals as strongest as possible (I don't know if my English dress well the concept :P)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13498" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T13:24:07.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21231" CreationDate="2015-08-24T13:36:50.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people have their single pannier on the left side for balance reasons because they are using single-leg kick-stands, which usually mount on the non-drive-side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/porteur-double-kickstand.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;double-leg kickstand&lt;/a&gt; so it doesn't matter which side I mount the pannier -- at least for balance reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I mount it on the right (drive) side. The reason I do this is because when I'm walking the bike, I walk on the left (non-drive) side. Having the panniers on the drive side means that I am not bumping my legs/hips against the panniers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the pannier on the right side also means that I have better visibility of the mounting points as I stand on the left side trying to attach and detach it. Some panniers have easy attachments that you could do blind, but my ones require just a tad of fussing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Fine print: I should note that my &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/prodInfo.asp?pid=215&amp;amp;cid=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;office-bag pannier&lt;/a&gt; was not symmetrical so I had to flip the mounting points to mount it on the right -- i.e., it came from the factory (Ortlieb) designed to be mounted on the left (nds) side, but was easily reversible. &lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T18:21:20.877" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T18:21:20.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32927" CreationDate="2015-08-24T14:04:11.800" Score="2" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought my first cx bike at the beginning of the summer and started watching a few races on YouTube and such, not because I plan to race but just because it was interesting to me. All summer I've been riding on paved trails until recently I took it off-road to a bike trail in the woods. Instantly I noticed how stiff my bike is (2015 Giant Revolt 3) and I started to feel each and every bump my wheels came in contact with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this made me question. Why are cx bikes so stiff if they are used to ride off-road a lot? Races are all off-road with bumps/hills/etc. as well. It makes sense for road bikes because they're riding on smooth paved road and don't need to worry about sudden bumps in the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, why are cx bikes so stiff and what impact does it have on performance? I'm mainly interested in performance changes for off-road biking or cx racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20487" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T19:54:20.880" Title="Why are cyclocross bikes stiff and what impact does it have on performance?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T14:33:49.503" Score="0" ViewCount="2833" Body="&lt;p&gt;So there are always a lot of sales going on on craigslist / ebay / etc. How do I tell if what they are selling is worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really know the difference between a $500 bike and $1500 bike. I know weight is one of concerns but 20 or 25 lbs or even 30 lbs it's pretty hard to tell the difference. There are multitudes of brand names and even more variations within the brand name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also the group sets (even discounting too much of customization)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My stats: 5'10, 270 lbs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Purpose: Commuting ~12 miles daily (each way) - (assuming for long rides 50+ a hybrid is better)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to go to a local shop to try out some bicycles but, i also don't mind used, but somehow doubt someone from Craigslist will let me do a 'test drive'. Hopefully this is enough information about what my purpose and question is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to sum it up:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- What should I look for that will make the difference between a $500 bike and $1500 (both for same purpose) when it comes to Frame/Components  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21255" LastEditorUserId="21255" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T16:34:24.987" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T17:21:04.380" Title="How do I tell if a used bike (craigslist) is worth it?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-08-24T18:53:53.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27234" CreationDate="2015-08-24T14:40:56.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now have over 100 miles towing the canoe with my homemade trailer hitch pictured in the question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A schedule 40 PVC 1 1/4 (or 1 1/2?) to 1 inch connector is used as the hitch, the bike has a quick release for the seat, so loosen the seat pull the post out and center the connector and restore the seat = Connected, (takes like 5 seconds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The support arm is a 4 foot section of schedule 40 PVC 1 inch pipe, structural strength is added by inserting a 4 foot length of 1 inch dowel, slathered (during insertion) with silicone sealant for water proofing, and adhesion to the inside of the pipe. Connection to the canoe is via two J Hooks with wing nuts (drill through pipe and dowel). The bow connector seemed like it would have more strain, and there was a slide over T connector (not water tight) with a screw in connector, I cut the screw in part off and used it to add strength to the center/bow connection. Joining the T to the tube is with PVC cement and a small (3//16?) bolt and nut is placed through the 1 inch junction of the T, Tube &amp;amp; Dowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is off the shelf (Lowe's), Because the seat post is at about a 15 degree angle, the hitch self-centers and tends to stay fairly stable. If I am away from home, a quick trip to the local hardware store will have me back on the trail in a couple hours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tube would occasionally rub against the back tire, I used a bungee cord around the pipe and to the seat to lift it a bit, this has worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one of my early outings the canoe had gotten misaligned on the dolly and was travelling slightly sideways, while navigating between poles the canoe tipped over.  Everything flexed nicely without breaking.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of interest, I am on my second disposable bike with the same trailer hitch, the blue bike wore out.  I tow with a disposable bike so if (when?) the canoe tips over and deposits the bike at the bottom a river, I don't need to worry about dodging tug boats to retrieve it, just go get another one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why don't I get a better bike?&lt;/strong&gt;   I &lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/6948/how-to-carry-a-bicycle-in-a-canoe/9255#9255&quot;&gt;carry the bike in the canoe.&lt;/a&gt; If me the bike and the canoe go over, the bike is going to drown. I have a life jack and the canoe has flotation. I tie the bike to the canoe, but unless the water is pretty shallow I am probably going to cut the bike loose, I can get a new bike every year for $100.  When you get in a canoe, you should expect that the likelihood of overturning is 100% (&lt;em&gt;it's not but is the safe assumption&lt;/em&gt;).  Currently I am &lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/7239/&quot;&gt;traveling some local water ways&lt;/a&gt; limited to about 15 miles per day where the return time is at 2 canoe miles per hour top speed.  Everyday is potentially the last day the bike has to live. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/9256&quot;&gt;How to tow a canoe with a bicycle?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/25282&quot;&gt;What are the safety concerns of a high vs a low mount trailer hitch?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14181" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:48:00.067" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T15:50:10.373" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32922" CreationDate="2015-08-24T15:07:09.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Race courses in city parks are not that bumpy.  Most racers run closer to 40 psi (on a 34 mm) but it varies.  Clincher tires to run low pressure with pinch flats is common. The bike is stiff for speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/revolt.3.2015/18604/76006/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Revolt 3&lt;/a&gt; is not a true CX bike.  It probably came with a 35 mm. That bike will take a 50 mm.  You can safely run 50 mm at 40 psi (check the range on the tire) and get a pretty soft ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T15:48:15.007" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T15:48:15.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32923" CreationDate="2015-08-24T15:09:22.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that most people on Craigslist would be willing to let you give it a test ride, I mean it's similar to buying a car. Just, as I always tell people, meet with the person in a very public space. Much safer place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what to look for, I would do a little research into exactly what you are expecting to use the bike for. Figure out the kind of bike you need and do a little research on the kind of mech recommended for what you're doing,(frame, gears, wheels, shifters, brakes, drive train.) Once you figure all that out, you can narrow down your selection on Craigslist. Just like looking at different models in the store, online you will find pictures, descriptions, e.t.c. So you can find the right bike for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you think you've found one, speak with the seller and find out more about the bike. Research things like the bikes brand, how old it is, e.t.c. Once everything checks out, boom. You have your bike!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T15:09:22.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32922" CreationDate="2015-08-24T15:21:43.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, cyclocross bikes are stiff because they are being used to race.  A stiffer frame will transmit more energy from the pedal to the rear wheel.  Cyclocross races are usually 45-60 minutes (less for lower levels, more for pros), so fatigue from bumps is not an issue.  As noted by Frisbee, cyclocross race courses are not as bumpy as wooded trails.  Race courses usually pass over grass fields, perhaps a little bit of trail, and often sand and/or mud.  And racers usually run as low a tire pressure* as possible to increase traction, which also helps with smoothing the bumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific instance, there are a few factors that might serve to smooth out your ride...&#xA;1. Check your tire size. Most cyclocross bikes can take a 40mm tire, though they are usually delivered with a 32mm tires (as 32mm is the UCI limit for races).  Larger tires will provide more cushion.&#xA;2. Check your tire pressure. Most people run their road tires (21-25mm width) at 90-120psi.  If you have wider tires, as commonly found on cyclocross bikes, try lowering the pressure to 60-80psi for long road rides.  And even less for trail (though you'll have to balance your tolerance for flats vs comfort/traction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With tubular tires (glue ups/sew ups) a lightweight pro can run below 20psi without flats. With standard clincher tires more pressure is required to avoid flats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21022" LastEditorUserId="20487" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T19:54:20.880" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T19:54:20.880" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23275" CreationDate="2015-08-24T15:31:58.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at former cyclocrossers who have moved into the pro peloton (Lars Boom, Zdenek Stybar come to mind), many of them end up specializing in the Spring Classics (Paris-Roubaix, etc).  In the multi-day tours, they are all-rounders, capable of winning stages, though not usually near the top of the GC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21022" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T15:31:58.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32931" CreationDate="2015-08-24T16:29:07.623" Score="17" ViewCount="24688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a set of tubeless tires that have been on my mountain bike for over two summers and have had zero flats. How often should I be adding more sealant? How much? Should I be removing old sealant first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:35:08.840" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:35:08.840" Title="How often should I refresh the sealant in tubeless tires?" Tags="&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3197" CreationDate="2015-08-24T16:30:45.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a mighty old posting that I am responding to almost 5 years later, but I thought it would be helpful for those who are looking to overhaul their BB and thinking of moving to the external. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part that is captured here, External hubs are at least 30% lighter than the internal hubs. Because the bearing cups are outside the BB shell, it provides more leverage on riders who ride hard on the pedals, hammering away.&#xA;The bearings are indeed LARGER than the internal hubs which means longevity of the BB. When they do wear, the bearings can be replaced without chucking the entire unit, saving you time and money. However you will need to purchase a BB Exit Tool ($15) to make it happen.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replaced my internal hub twice and then tried the external hub, so far it has lasted me more than double the life expectancy of my two internal hubs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in a nutshell, external hubs are 30% lighter and 40-45% percent longer lasting than your internal hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21258" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T16:30:45.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32929" CreationDate="2015-08-24T16:37:00.377" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;At minimum, you should replace the sealant every 6 months or so.  As you have found, a good tubeless setup will stay inflated well beyond that time, as the latex in the sealant has already sealed any small holes.  However, the sealant does dry over time, so the systems ability to self-repair when you run over a thorn or sharp rock is greatly reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no need to clean and remove the old sealant.  However, some brands tend to leave clumps that you can pick out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're valve cores are removable, the easiest way to add sealant is through the valve.  Otherwise, you'll have to break the tire bead off the rim (just a small section) to add sealant.  This can sometimes take a few tries to get sealed again (helpful to have a compressor or large CO2 cartridge to &quot;slam&quot; the tire into the rim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21022" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T16:37:00.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21689" CreationDate="2015-08-24T16:45:27.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nashbar's specs for the rim list the inner width as 16mm.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_566766_-1___&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_566766_-1___&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(click the &quot;Specs&quot; link)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a fairly standard width for road wheels, so you should be able to safely run any common road tire size (21mm-35mm give or take a few mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21022" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T16:45:27.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32923" CreationDate="2015-08-24T17:20:46.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking there are two types of bikes for sale on Craigslist. The first type is one with a manufacturer name, model name, and date of manufacture. The second type is the bike that doesn't have those identifiable characteristics. These second-type bikes might be called custom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a manufacturer, model, and year then you can use bicyclebluebook or just do some napkin math. My rule for bikes is that a used bike is worth half of what a person paid for it. That's a harsh rule but it runs true in my market. For these first type bikes you are going to have a general idea of the original value of the bike and then it is up to you to decide how much you want to pay for the bike you are looking for. My recent experience is that once I found out what I was looking for I started to see the same makes and models come up and similar price points. I would miss certain bikes at certain prices and I kept an informal idea of that those quality/value/price points were; aware that if I saw a similar combination anytime soon I would jump on the deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you apparently haven't checked out any bikes on Craigslist seems to indicate that you haven't really started looking yet, that you are pre-looking. I propose that once you start looking, and look for a few weeks, things will start to click. You are not going to figure this out in a few days!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the &quot;custom&quot; bikes it seems like you have a general understanding of at least the fact that there are differences among frames and among components. For pricing these things I tend to check ebay completed listings to figure out what things are selling for. You could literally add up all the used parts and you should be close to what a bike made of those parts should cost. I might get blasted for proposing this but the economics tend to work out for used bikes in the $500 - $1000 price range assuming discounts and premiums for condition and rarity. The range of components across manufacturers and types of bikes is HUGE. But as others have said, figure out the type of bike you want. That will narrow down the component options. Then figure out price range and you will get it even tighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, let's say I figure that I want a road bike. I decide that I want something steel with at least a Shimano Sora group. Figure out what that bikes sell for new. Cut that in half. Here is your target. Now look for steel bikes with that group on ebay and see what they are selling for. See if the &quot;half price&quot; target is accurate and adjust it up or down. Now see if you can find this steel Sora bike. You probably can't. You might find a bike with some Sora parts and some &quot;other&quot; parts. Figure out how those other parts compare to Sora and adjust your price up or down. Perhaps the group is a different manufacturer, figure out where those parts compare to your parts. It is literally going to be this tedious. At first. After a while, as I said, you will start to recognize things and you'll need to research less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you go along, you are going to miss out on some great deals. Hopefully you also miss out on some things that would have been a mistake! Your judgment will sharpen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NEVER BUY A BIKE WITHOUT RIDING IT&lt;/strong&gt; unless you are willing to deal with some potentially large problems that require things like new wheels or new bottom bracket/cranks or new shifters, etc. Sometimes sellers do not even know these problems exist because they ride on destroyed hardware completely oblivious to the problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah - keep in mind that quality tires could cost $100 so add or subtract accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T17:20:46.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32923" CreationDate="2015-08-24T17:21:04.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First you need to figure out what type of bicycle you are looking for. Is it a road bike, mountain bike, hybrid, or something else. If you can't answer that question you need to do basic research to figure that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you understand what type of bike you need, you also have to figure out what size of bike &quot;should&quot; fit you. The only way to see if a used bike actually fits you is to test ride it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you actually know what type and size of bike you want you can start searching Craigs List. Note that some of the prices on CL are not realistic. It's up to you to figure this out. When you see a bike you like on CL make sure it is the correct size for you. If it is, the ad should list the model and year it was made, plus (at least for road bikes) what the major components are. If this information is missing- ask the person selling it for those items. It usually possible to look up the actual manufacturers specification page for any bike made in the last 15, or so, years. You can see the list price for that bike there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now you know what the bike cost new. You can use a site like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchBikes.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Blue Book&lt;/a&gt; to look up it's current value. This will give you an estimate of what the bike should be selling for now. More expensive bikes have more expensive frames and components. Set a budget for yourself, and stick to that budget when looking at ads. Remember most prices are negotiable AND many used bikes will need a tune up, new handlebar tape, new tires, or other things that will cost you extra. Figure this into the budget for your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've purchased 2 bikes this summer on Craigs List and every seller let me test drive the bike. I would never buy a bike without testing it. One seller brought a bike to &quot;evaluate&quot; that had no pedals. I couldn't try it so no sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, always get the bike serial number before you buy and run a check to see if the bike is stolen before buying it! You can check serial numbers at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bikeindex.org/stolen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Registry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T17:21:04.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32909" CreationDate="2015-08-24T17:54:16.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...is replacing his battery powered lights the best way of doing the &#xA;  job?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware that we can't answer this without mor information. I commute year-round in Minnesota and we have condition close to yours. Here are my thoughts and experience with dyno hubs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried a dyno hub because I wanted what I thought was simplicity but when I executed the plan I realized that my assumptions were wrong and I switched to battery operated lights (which I will also discuss).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first problem was one that your husband might also have - the wheels on my two bikes were a) different sizes and b) had different brake set-ups. Fair weather bike is 700c road bike. Winter bike is 26 inch mountain bike. (Add to this that I sometimes ride my 700c in the snow so I have two sets of wheels mounted with different tires.) I first tried to overcome the tire size by figuring out if I could run a 700c wheel on the front of the mountain bike. The short answer is that it wasn't worth it &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; to use a dyno hub. Add to that the 700c bike is rim brake and the 26er is disc brake. Again, if wheel size wasn't an issue this could be accommodated but also again is that it wasn't worth it &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; to use a dyno hub. So the two different wheel size thing is an issue. As a note though, even if the wheels were the same size and you could switch them between bikes the little connector at the hub (at least on the Shimano hub) is flimsy and not really designed to be connected and reconnected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second problem was that the lights themselves are hard wired onto the bike. First, see above about bike switching. Second I park my bike on the street. Even though I have an indoor garage I leave my bike outside. This is actually important in the winter but let's not go into that and not to mention that garages are some of the best places to mess with people's bikes! Plus, what about stops at the store or a meeting on the way in or out of work? So security makes me want to bring my lights with me. These things cost hundreds of dollars and I don't want them stolen. Now, modular mounts and connectors could be improvised (I looked into all of this, even prototyped some solutions) but with the wheel conflicts (and don't forget - mittens!) I threw my hands up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What made me sell the wheel was that one day in the dark when the connector failed. Or maybe a broken spoke sends the wheel to the shop for a day or two. Or maybe I was running late one morning and my bike had a flat so I grabbed the other bike. Whatever, you get it. I needed to have battery back-ups and &lt;em&gt;those back-ups needed to be as good as the dyno powered lights&lt;/em&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not sold yet, imagine changing a flat and then trying to get that hub connector to work when it is below zero and dark. You need to fold those little wires... your fingers will freeze.  Guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTc9B.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTc9B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I settled on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the most expensive taillight that I could afford. It was hundreds of dollars and come with so many mounts that I have a mount on six bikes. The light charges via mini_USB and can run off of an external battery. I am going into my sixth winter on this light; totally worth it! It has multiple modes (of course) and slips on and off it's mount quickly but securely. (See note below about mittens!) I also keep some 1 watt &quot;blinkies&quot; in my bag for back-up and I ride with a small blinkie on my helmet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For headlights I use bright LED flashlights from China which run on 18650 batteries. This battery system is so much better than AA batteries. They are not in the same ball park. They are not even playing the same sport! One battery per light gets hours of run time and if it runs low you pull a new one out of your pocket. That's &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; - one battery per light. The lights get cheaper and smaller every year. The mounts are plastic and velcro and cost less than $2. They take ten seconds to apply and I can do it with winter gloves on. And by gloves I mean mittens that provide the dexterity of boxing gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWAY2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WWAY2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can get the super-bright LEDs that have cords and battery packs; I have tried them and do not need them. Flashlights work great, I can carry spare lights and batteries easily and it's all swappable. I have a charger at work and at home and the batteries are cheap and abundant. I also ride with a small blinkie headlight that I velcro to the top of my helmet; easy on and off and charges via USB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, independent lights let me ride any bike any time and I can leave my bike anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can post links to any and all hardware but this isn't an advertisement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the taillight from Dinotte. The Quad RED is the current offering but I am still using the 300R that I bought in October 2010 which is still going strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ddtCe.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ddtCe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bar-mounted headlights I use flashlights from Solar Force. The flashlights I use run on one 18650 battery. I am not going to lie, the website is confusing and once you figure out the website the individual parts you need to order are confusing and once you figure out which parts you need to order figuring out the options of the various parts is confusing. However, this is the place to get quality lights for cheap. I use the L2N body with the 3.7v XM-L T6 Cree bulb. (I also order extra switches and reflectors while I am at it but they are unnecessary. However you might want to test an orange peel reflector which diffuses the light; if you run two headlights one with orange peel and one with smooth provides flood and spot lights).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CzYfw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CzYfw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mount the flashlight using these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dx.com/p/universal-adjustable-bicycle-mount-for-flashlights-2cm-4cm-diameter-31871#.VdyfVJc4JvA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;velcro mounts&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ydduT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ydduT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These mounts are great for all bikes but on my winter bike I actually have a rigid mount that the lights snap in and out of, something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dx.com/p/universal-adjustable-bicycle-mount-for-flashlights-2cm-4cm-diameter-31871#.VdyfVJc4JvA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; but without the 180 swivel feature. I use hose clamps to attach the mounts to my handlebars. It's not pretty but in this regard I am all about function. I can mount, remove, and adjust the lights while wearing mittens.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqhA5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oqhA5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For charging the 18650 batteries you should make sure you get a smart charger and just read up on which product tends to be best reviewed at the best price. Right now the Nitecore D4 is doing pretty well and has the bonus of being able to charge a bunch of different battery sizes. In addition to the smart charger which I keep at home I also have a simple charger ($10 or less) at work.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQAIg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CQAIg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGkFl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bGkFl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For blinkies I am using Blackburn Fleas. I picked these because they charge via USB (or solar!) and use the same charger so I can have one at home and one at work. The charger is proprietary otherwise this would not be an issue. I really like the Flea headlight because of the way I use it. I use velcro to quickly stick it to the top of my helmet, no straps to mess with. It is built in such a way that I am able to remove a bunch of plastic from the bottom (shave it off with a razor knife) to lower the profile.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74KAK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/74KAK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastEditorUserId="19730" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T17:22:35.807" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T17:22:35.807" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21231" CreationDate="2015-08-24T21:29:04.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put blinkies on my panniers (there's a little strap thing on them for that purpose), so if I'm only running one, I put it on the left partly so that the blinky blinks at traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T21:29:04.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32825" CreationDate="2015-08-25T00:23:33.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, the only thing you can do is investigate each individual part as you go along. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With drivetrain parts you'll have to investigate how well they work with other drivetrain parts. E.g., if you change the derailleur, does it work with the shifters? Is the cassette compatible with the derailleurs? Etc. Try searching the site for stuff like &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=drivetrain%20compatibility&quot;&gt;drivetrain compatibility&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=shifter%20compatibility&quot;&gt;shifter compatibility&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=derailleur%20compatibility&quot;&gt;derailleur compatibility&lt;/a&gt;. The venerable &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown&lt;/a&gt; is also a magnificent source for determining how things work together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With fairly static parts like your handlebars and seatpost, it will likely come down to simply measuring to see if they match. You'll probably need to do so with calipers as these things can sometimes vary by a millimeter, or perhaps even less. However, Batman mentions in the comments, you may run into comfort issues. Whether these issues are within your range of tolerance will depend on your bike's setup, your body proportions, flexibility, and the individual parts that you're swapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4239" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T00:23:33.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31233" CreationDate="2015-08-25T02:12:43.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned the cables and derailleur are both freely moving, it's most likely the shifter. Now I had a jammed shifter before but it wasn't due to corrosion. Cables need to be very freely moving, otherwise what can happen is the head of the cable inside the shifter can become dislodged and jam, preventing the shifter from moving. I had this issue personally on a 24 mile ride, causing me to be stuck in one gear for a majority of the ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the bike was left outside, corrosion can be the culprit, especially for cables. Sometimes a cable can look and feel fine but in fact it is too restrictive for proper shifting. The easiest fix would be to replace the shifter and cable. It's not a difficult nor expensive repair, just make sure you get a replacement shifter with the correct ratio (1:1 for SRAM derailleurs, 2:1 for Shimano derailleurs). Most shifters require you to snip the cable anyways before taking it off. If you must leave the bike outside, consider going with a full length housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21266" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T02:12:43.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30620" CreationDate="2015-08-25T02:22:13.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cold setting a 114mm to 130mm is significant. Usually the rule of thumb for cold setting is you can go up one step, such as from a 126mm to 130mm or 120mm to 126mm. A three speed freewheel bicycle is extremely rare and I'd personally leave it alone, it's just too valuable to risk destroying the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21266" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T02:22:13.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32909" CreationDate="2015-08-25T02:49:52.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a year round commuter, and here in the Pacific Northwet it is often dark on the ride both to and from work during the winter. While I've been considering a hub generator for my commuter, I don't think I can really justify the cost. If I went touring on multi-day rides [or won the lottery], then yes I would get a hub generator [or generators].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the battery powered lights I use take rechargeable AA or AAA batteries. My main headlight, a Light and Motion Urban 800 FC, recharges from a USB cable and it seriously lights up the road when it's dark out. L&amp;amp;M Urbans are falling in price. I also have a few &quot;I'm here&quot; lights that take lithium button batteries, and which could not be replaced with hub lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @dlu said, Peter White is an awesome source, but I think I would look for a local source first. The investment is significant, and fit/compatibility issues could seriously drive up the price if you have to ship parts to and fro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T02:49:52.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1055" CreationDate="2015-08-25T02:57:59.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While we do not have Idaho Rules here in Washington, there has been a push for it at times. A &amp;quot;dead red&amp;quot; law took effect for cyclists in early 2015, but that's a far cry from Idaho Rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Dead Red&amp;quot; = a vehicle actuated light the fails to notice a bicycle, so the cyclist may proceed through the red after a pause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2021-02-18T21:05:48.433" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T21:05:48.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32942" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-25T03:46:19.917" Score="3" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently converting my Rohloff's gear mech from the internal to external version, and I’d like to route the shifter cables along the downtube and chainstay. However, I’m not sure how to route the cables from the shifter on the right side of the handlebars to the gear mech on the left side of the rear wheel. What attachments might I need for this beyond any brazes on my Surly LHT (non-disc) frame? Does anyone have a few high-definition photos they could share of their working and time-tested setup? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19761" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T19:28:18.220" Title="How to route shifter cables along frame to a Rohloff external gear mech?" Tags="&lt;cable-routing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10069" CreationDate="2015-08-25T04:43:32.313" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recall this thread, and thought I'd add &lt;a href=&quot;http://alex-cycle.blogspot.com.au/2015/08/when-your-ride-buddy-becomes-real-drag.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a link to a post describing an impromptu experiment I conducted this week&lt;/a&gt;, which tested the impact on the power demand of a test rider (172cm 60kg female on a track pursuit bike riding at a quasi-steady state velocity on an indoor wooden velodrome) of another rider (185cm 80kg male on mass start track bike riding in close proximity), and to compare this with the test rider's solo ride power demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tests examined the following locations of the other rider relative to the test rider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;immediately in front of the test rider&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;riding next to the test rider (on their outside)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;immediately behind the test rider&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;completely away from the test rider and not riding on the track (to provide data on the solo power demand for the test rider).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use sophisticated technology to assess rider aerodynamics in real time and had the chance to perform this experiment at an indoor velodrome (Dunc Gray Velodrome, Sydney), so that we could at least conduct such an experiment in well controlled, no wind, low yaw angle conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Test runs were repeated for validation and confirmation of results. The testing protocols and analysis of data provide values for the &lt;em&gt;apparent&lt;/em&gt; CdA (coefficient of drag x frontal area, units: m^2) value for each of the test conditions. I then use the apparent CdA data to show the power demand for the test rider to maintain a 40km/h average speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://alex-cycle.blogspot.com.au/2015/08/when-your-ride-buddy-becomes-real-drag.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is the link to my write up&lt;/a&gt;, which includes links to other experiments and published science on the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the summary of the data in chart and table form, which show the power required for the test rider to maintain 40km/h while riding solo, and with the other rider in various relative positions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aftgP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aftgP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hcQWw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hcQWw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, compared with the power required (195W) for her to maintain 40km/h (lap average speed) on the velodrome:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drafting immediately behind the other rider gives massive benefit (-76W, -39%). No surprises there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Having a rider immediately behind (~1/2 wheel gap) provided ~ -7W (-3%) benefit for the lead rider.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Having a rider ride right next to her (~0.8m - 1.0m lateral gap between wheels) created an &lt;em&gt;additional&lt;/em&gt; power demand of ~ +10W (+5%).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result of a 7W (3%) benefit to the lead rider of having a rider immediately behind is in line with previous experimental results and published studies. So while the effect is small, and would be difficult to feel while riding, it is a real effect, at least in low wind conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The side by side ride result showing an additional power demand of 10W (5%) in low yaw conditions is more novel, and has interesting implications for team formation events (e.g. team pursuit and team time trial) and rider changeovers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course different rider morphologies, individual aerodynamic properties, riding alignment configurations and wind conditions will yield different results to this impromptu experiment, but I thought it interesting none the less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13358" LastEditorUserId="13358" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T05:24:40.330" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T05:24:40.330" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8781" CreationDate="2015-08-25T14:19:22.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to my bike-mounted dynamo-powered light, I have this helmet mounted headlight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRUry.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WRUry.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I got it (and that I haven't seen mentioned in other responses) is that I also really wanted the helmet mounted &lt;strong&gt;REAR LIGHT&lt;/strong&gt;.  I'm just as afraid of being rear-ended on my commute home (especially in the winter) as I am of being side-swiped. The rear helmet light (set of three LEDs on the battery module) makes sure that there's one more set of warning lights from the rear -- and the distance between my head rear lights and the taillight also helps drivers gauge distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep the front helmet mounted light on low (in conjunction with my bike-mounted light). Putting the helmet-mount on high is usually too powerful (makes pothole shadows disappear, which is a bad thing) and also blinds and annoys drivers too much. Low is just right on this model. I can point my head at cars approaching from side streets and make sure they won't side swipe me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if I'm biking with a friend in the evening, I have to turn the helmet light off as it's extremely to aggressively annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt; Get both, and a helmet mounted light that has a rear safety light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T14:19:22.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32909" CreationDate="2015-08-25T15:09:46.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I upgraded an old &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30656/how-can-i-learn-to-take-care-of-an-old-70s-era-road-bike-get-it-back-to-workin/30659?s=3%7C0.0406#30659&quot;&gt;1970s road bike into a commuter&lt;/a&gt;, I put a front &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/sanyo.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sanyo dynohub&lt;/a&gt; on it.  I love it. I never have to worry about dead batteries and so I can keep the light on all the time – which increases my visibility considerably. A huge safety plus in my book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to costs: the dynohub and wheel cost me $85 with free shipping on the giant auction site in the cloud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Item name:   Sanyo dynohub (hub dynamo)/Vuelta rim 700c front bicycle&#xA;  wheel 36h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tire and tube then cost another $60 (although I suspect you would be able to use the old tire/tube from the previous bike) at my LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built my own LED light, but a dynamo powered light is relatively inexpensive, I'd budget about $85 for front and rear using the excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&amp;amp;m-hl.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Busch and Muller lights&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless your hubby is handy with stringing wiring (it's only a slight tad harder than stringing Christmas lights), I'd get the local bike shop to do it, $10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total is around $85 + 60 + 85 + 10 = $240.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T01:21:57.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27387" CreationDate="2015-08-25T15:21:04.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chris- first culprit is the barrel adjuster. New cables tend to stretch. As a result, small adjustments need to be made to cable tension to keep shifting 100% dialled in. Doing this at home is fairly simple, and there are many great tutorials online about how to do this yourself, here is a link to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQncKmddahk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;great video&lt;/a&gt; from Art's Cyclery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you still have trouble dialling in your shifting the next most likely culprit is a slightly bent derailleur hanger. This can actually be a quick and cheap fix at a bike shop, as they have a tool to bend it back into alignment (instead of totally replacing the hanger). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, try watching the video, and if you still have trouble try visiting a new shop!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21245" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-05-17T13:16:18.930" LastActivityDate="2020-05-17T13:16:18.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8781" CreationDate="2015-08-25T15:57:37.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; use a bright helmet light on paths with oncoming other cyclists or pedestrians, as you will easily dazzle them. As we naturally tend to look at other peoples' faces, you will very often shine your light right into their eyes. This can actually be more dangerous (I once almost collided with a cyclist who blinded me so that I lost control). On the other hand, a helmet light is useful when you are on a lonely dark path because you may want to look to the side when you e.g. hear something. So please switch a helmet light off or reduce the brightness when there is a chance you can blind others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a road with motor traffic, the main issue is to be seen (not so much the light helps you see). I would have at least one light fixed on the bike, as the moving light on the helmet can make it difficult for drivers to judge your speed, directions and intentions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T15:57:37.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32954" CreationDate="2015-08-25T16:32:33.677" Score="6" ViewCount="2102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just finished a long bicycle tour on a loaded touring bicycle, and I'm interested in calculating the number of calories I must have burnt over the trip. However, all the calorie calculators I come across don't take into account the weight of the bicycle, which means the data must be a significant underestimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what is the calculation used to calculate number of calories burned on a bicycle ride, and how can it be modified to take into account the weight of a heavily loaded touring bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6953" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T19:17:19.227" Title="How do I calculate calories burnt using my bicycle's weight?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32952" CreationDate="2015-08-25T16:40:14.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calories burnt depends on your speed, elevation change, and your body composition. e.g. riding at 30mph burns more than double the calories per hour than 20mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calorie calculators just make a rough approximation, and their margin of error is significantly greater than the difference between their assumed bike weight and yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just take what they provide as an estimate, or supply your weight as being your actual weight plus the extra weight on your bike and call it good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T16:40:14.237" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32952" CreationDate="2015-08-25T17:14:25.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest, you're really asking this question too late. If you had asked before your tour, I believe the easiest way you could have measured it would be to find a cycling app which takes your weight and your other physical information. Then you simply weigh your fully loaded bike and add that weight to your own, then the app would measure your total calories burned. (Even this would only be a rough estimate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is no solid answer to this question. As I said before, you would have been better off asking this prior to the trip, as there are dozens upon dozens of factors needed to give you an accurate BALLPARK of how many calories you've burned. (I.e. Speed, terrain, average gradient, food consumed while on your trip, average power output, length of time spent in the saddle, cadence, over all distance, e.t.c.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose if you wanted a very rough estimate, find a calorie calculator online, input the total weight, (you and the loaded bike), take the distance traveled, and the estimated total time in the saddle. This method would be fairly inaccurate, but without the factors listed above, I believe it's the closest you would get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastEditorUserId="21035" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T17:16:49.233" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T17:16:49.233" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-25T19:06:28.147" Score="4" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a given tire width, can you safely run a lower pressure on wider rims?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My road bike can only fit up to 23 mm tires due to frame clearance, however my rims are a relatively wide 23 mm. So I was wondering if I can run a lower tire pressure than normal for a more comfortable ride without pinch flatting or damaging the wheels on bad pavement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21277" LastActivityDate="2019-11-20T20:14:59.237" Title="Lower tire pressure on wider rims?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32955" CreationDate="2015-08-25T19:35:15.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running 23 mm tires on a rim width of 23 mm is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;insane&lt;/a&gt; -- your tires should be around to 40-50 mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize Sheldon Brown's page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Narrow tire on wide rim = pinch flats + damage from road hazards (which is the case you are in)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wide tire on narrow rim = sidewall damage + rim failure and bad handling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to get a narrower rim for the bike (or possibly do a 650b conversion if possible, so you can run decent sized tires).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T19:35:15.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31233" CreationDate="2015-08-25T19:47:28.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I solved a similar problem by dousing the inside of the shifter liberally with WD40 and leaving it overnight, I mean really soak it until it's dripping. I had to do this twice but the shifting was perfect afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21278" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T19:47:28.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32952" CreationDate="2015-08-25T22:17:36.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're able to upload the ride to &lt;a href=&quot;http://connect.garmin.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Garmin Connect&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strava&lt;/a&gt;, you can get an estimate of calorie burn on the basis of speed, elevation, and so forth. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2010/11/how-calorie-measurement-works-on-garmin.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;If you were wearing a heart rate monitor, the estimate from Garmin will be much more accurate&lt;/a&gt;, but unfortunately &lt;a href=&quot;https://strava.zendesk.com/entries/34307080-Different-Calorie-calculations-for-Garmin-vs-Strava-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;at this time Strava does not factor heart rate into their calorie estimate&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T22:17:36.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-26T01:53:01.127" Score="2" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a set of used clipless pedals. They are somewhat unique in that they do not use a spring mechanism, but instead have a rubber block / set screw to provide tension. The problem is even with the screw completely backed out, the pedals are still nearly impossible to get out of (I've actually had to remove the shoe because I couldn't unclip).  I'd like to replace the rubber (I read that this was a problem with some Onzo pedals with a similar design), but I don't know the brand. The dust caps just say 'CM'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZimF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ZimF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone identify the brand, maker or supplier for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21283" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T02:12:20.770" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T04:26:21.287" Title="Clipless Pedals Brand Identification" Tags="&lt;clipless&gt;&lt;pedals-clipless&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32952" CreationDate="2015-08-26T03:09:24.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just going to ignore fancy apps, gps, and physics all together:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure out how many calories you consume on a typical/non-exercise day and multiply that by the days in your bike tour.  Subtract that from the amount of calories you consumed during the tour, and that will be a pretty good estimate of how many calories the actual biking required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20267" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T03:09:24.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32961" CreationDate="2015-08-26T03:54:28.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two pairs of shoes with different cleats - and two bikes with different pedals. Both pairs of shoes work well on one bike, but with one set of shoes the cleats jam on the other bike.  There are several brands of pedals and cleats that have varying degrees of compatibility. Replacing the rubber is unlikely to fix the problem of the cleat not releasing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of this, there is also single release (Shimano SH51 and SH52) and multi release cleats (SH55 and SH56) cleats -  Single release will let you unclip with a horizontal rotation only, where as multi release let you unclip with a diagonal, horizontal or upwards pull. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check you cleats - if they are single release, I would replace them with multi release as a first step. You may end up needing to try several different cleats, so a trip to the LBS might be the quickest way to find something that works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stilen.com/bike_stuff/SPD-SPD-R_SPD_SL_cleats.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SPD / SPD-R / SPD-SL cleat application table&lt;/a&gt; : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SM-SH51 for single direction release,and for “Easy step-in” feature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SM-SH52 for PD-M858 and other SPD pedals except PD-7410 or PD-6500&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SM-SH55 for multi-directional release except PD-M959 / M540 / M520&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SM-SH56 SPD Cleat Sets Multi-directional release for PD-M959 / M540 /&#xA;M520&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wellgo also do cleats that some claim are Shimano compatible, but other's say can be hard to get out of some Shimano pedals. They come in 98A (common), 99A and also I have seen a TB51A (but its not in the catalogue). Crank Bros and Richey have cleats that look similar, no idea about compatibility.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T04:26:21.287" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T04:26:21.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-26T04:00:37.893" Score="2" ViewCount="962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a 4'11&quot; (150 cm) tall girl who just started riding BMX, and I'm riding a 20.5&quot; (52 cm) frame. I find that it's really big and quite heavy for someone my size. Is 20.5&quot; too big or should I just suck it up and keep going? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I were to get something smaller, can I just change the frame and use the existing tyres etc? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21286" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2019-08-26T07:43:20.773" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T07:45:13.790" Title="BMX Bike Sizing and Changing Parts?" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;new-rider&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32964" CreationDate="2015-08-26T05:21:43.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;20.5&quot; is way to big. You likely want something more around 18.5&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of bmx bike sizing charts out on the net to help guide you. Two examples are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.usabmx.com/tracks/1709/pages/492&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.usabmx.com/tracks/1709/pages/492&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.danscomp.com/serve/products%7Ccharts/riderchart.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.danscomp.com/serve/products%7Ccharts/riderchart.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other items you'll want to consider changing in addition to the frame size are going to be crank length, stem length, bar rise and bar width. Assuming you bought a pre-built bike, likely they are all oversized (for you) on your current bike. You may even be better off with a different wheel size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to get a smaller frame and move parts over you would want to make sure the new frame used all the same sized parts. Specifically you would want to make sure the new frame used the same type/size of bottom bracket, headset, seat post, dropout and wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have access to a local bike shop that has someone knowledgeable about BMX racing on staff? If so it might be worth stopping by and having a conversation with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T05:21:43.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32888" CreationDate="2015-08-26T09:17:08.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you mean by resetting the pistons? Pushing them all the way back in so that they're flush with the callipers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be done simply by bending the rotor a little and using it to press the callipers back in. It's such a little movement that you won't deform the rotor doing so. Parktools (and I suspect others) make a specific tool. I have also used a wooden door wedge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, changing the pads requires removing the wheel. A fail safe feature. DO NOT actuate the brakes with the disk removed. That could pop a piston out requiring specialist tools to replace it. If the piston popped out then there would be contamination but that would be the least of your worries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot get air in the system changing pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21288" LastEditorUserId="4175" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T00:45:15.877" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T00:45:15.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32912" CreationDate="2015-08-26T09:56:42.710" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you bunny hop by getting both wheels to leave the ground at the same, the rear wheel has to jump the length of the obstacle plus the &lt;em&gt;length of the bike&lt;/em&gt; to clear the obstacle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A more modern, trialsy and BMX-y bunny hop is what is what is sometimes called an 'American bunnyhop'.  In this, the front is hauled up first, then the back as the front is being pushed down (tutorials are available on youtube, other video sharing sites are available).  This means the back wheel can leave the ground later, and so doesn't have to jump as far as in the point above.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your time in the air is determined by your height, your distance traveled in that time is determined by your speed.  So jump higher while riding faster and you'll go further.  (And, potentially, crash harder.  Every silver lining has a cloud.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When mountain biking, simply &quot;unweighting&quot; can often be enough to help an already rugged and quite probably suspended bike better cope with rough patches.  And if all else fails - just get the damn front up and over!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11518" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T09:56:42.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32968" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-26T10:02:00.587" Score="2" ViewCount="1591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought a bike with an Alfine 8 hub and it was working well for the first week or so. Then there was a couple of gear drop outs whilst I was riding so I made sure to line up the yellow lines at the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then I've experienced a horrible noise coming from the lowest (easiest) gear whenever I put any reasonable weight on it. If I use it on a perfectly flat surface and peddle slowly then it's quiet but as soon as I try to pedal with any speed the hub starts making this grinding/crunching sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving the lines slightly OUT of alignment actually reduces the noise but causes problems with other gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be sending this hub back to Shimano?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've attached an image of my yellow lines lined up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UsAgt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UsAgt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Yellow lines aligned&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20345" LastEditorUserId="20345" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T15:19:56.670" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T00:00:36.440" Title="Alfine 8 crunching/grinding in highest gear" Tags="&lt;hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30620" CreationDate="2015-08-26T15:53:45.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One upgrade you could make without attempting to cold set the frame to far would be to use a kit like fyxation sells which works on a 120mm (track spaced) frame and works with bar end shifters. It's a much smaller width, so it would possibly work better than cold setting to 130.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet you could mount the bar end shifter on some Gevenalle levers if you prefer shifting from the hoods or use some paul mtb thumbie adapters to mount them on flat bars if that's preferred. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fyxation.com/products/six-fyx-conversion-kit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fyxation.com/products/six-fyx-conversion-kit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T15:53:45.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-26T16:22:19.463" Score="1" ViewCount="1112" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I broke my second front wheel last night when I hit a dip that rose too quickly for my wheel to climb before all my weight went behind it. I'm a big guy (300+ lbs), so my wheels need to be able to take a beating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I have a 2014 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/archive/2014/rockhopper/rockhopper-comp-29#specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29er&lt;/a&gt; with the original fork, tires, and just about everything except the peddles and wheels. I upgraded to Mavic CrossOnes last year after I taco'ed the original front wheel on a hard turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am getting tired of replacing these wheels. It is getting a bit expensive too. So I want to find some really tough rims and from what I read you need to get wheels that have a wider inner rim. The Mavics are 19mm if I remember correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about upgrading to a DT Swiss EX 471 29er rim which has a 25mm inner width. But I would like to stick with the ground control tires I already have and really like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would my 2.1&quot; Ground Control tire work on this wider rim? I am also considering going tubeless. Also, any recommendations for stronger wheels for my heavy body?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9103" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T17:42:30.103" Title="Can I put my 2.1&quot; 29er tires on a wheel with 25mm inner diameter?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;ergonomics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32973" CreationDate="2015-08-26T16:28:35.990" Score="3" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broke my second front wheel last night when I hit a dip that rose too quickly on the far side. The wheel didn't get a chance to redirect the force upward before all my weight went behind it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a big guy, 300+ lbs, so I need some sturdy wheels. Especially in the front. From what I am reading so far I should go for a wheel with a wider inner width. The Mavic CrossOne 29er wheel that I broke is 19mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/archive/2014/rockhopper/rockhopper-comp-29#specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2014 Specialize Rockhopper Comp 29er&lt;/a&gt;. It has been an awesome bike for the most part. The only problem I have been having is the wheels really. I don't want to keep replacing them. I really like the tires that came with it. The Ground Control 2.1&quot; tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me figure out what I need to do to find a wheel that can survive my heavy butt. What do I need to look for in a bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9103" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-12-25T01:58:11.670" LastActivityDate="2017-12-25T01:58:11.670" Title="What should I look for in a new front wheel for my heavy body?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;heavy&gt;&lt;clydesdale&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32970" CreationDate="2015-08-26T17:18:57.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheldon&lt;/a&gt; need 25mm for a 2.1&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A downhill wheel tends to be strong (and heavier)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T17:18:57.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32971" CreationDate="2015-08-26T17:31:00.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The things that will make a wheel more durable in this kind of service are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bigger tires – the bigger the tire the more space you have to cushion an impact, bigger tires also mean that the load is more distributed. Since the bigger tire gives you more support you can also run a somewhat lower pressure which means that there is more flex in the tire before the rim takes the impact.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The right tire pressure (especially since you may not want to change your tires). Too much pressure will make the tires hard and will transfer more of the impact to your wheels and the rest of the bike. Too little pressure means that you'll be getting pinch flats and impacts on the rims – also not good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Proper spoke tension – the spokes support the wheel, making sure that they are tight enough and evenly tensioned will ensure that the wheel is getting as much support as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Deeper rims – a deeper rim section will be stronger under impact. Wider will help with lateral loads. Going too wide will straighten the sidewalls of your tires and may actually reduce their effectiveness at cushioning impacts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More spokes – hubs and rims for tandems can be made with 40 or even 48 spokes, if you're already running 36 spokes and they were properly tensioned I'd be inclined to go for more spokes when you build the next wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the width of the rim is more about matching the rim to the tire (and lateral strength) than about radial impact strength. That said, 19 mm seems kind of narrow for a 50+ mm tire (at least based on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_dimensions#rim&quot;&gt;table of rim widths&lt;/a&gt; from Schwalbe). If you've got clearance on the bike for a wider tire, I'd go for at least a 23 or 25 mm rim just to have options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source of good advice would be a wheel builder who specializes in durable wheels. In the US &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com&quot;&gt;Peter White&lt;/a&gt; is a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T17:46:10.097" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T17:46:10.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32970" CreationDate="2015-08-26T17:42:30.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_dimensions#rim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tire size to rim width chart&lt;/a&gt; from Schwalbe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T17:42:30.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-26T18:20:04.233" Score="0" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a brand new bike fitted with RockShox 30 Silver front forks and took it for a ride on disused railway gravel cycle track. The lockout dial does not seem to do anything. This is my first time with suspension forks so no idea what to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21294" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T21:38:47.510" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T21:38:47.510" Title="Brand new Trek X-Caliber 7 - RockShox 30 Silver lockout not working" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-26T19:01:07.720" Score="7" ViewCount="2857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute to work by bike, very often in casual shorts and waterproof North Face sneakers. Provided I don't want to change my clothes (in particular I don't want to get SPD etc.), is there a good way to keep my feet dry when it's raining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, would shoe covers be of any help? My impression is that most of the rain gets into my sneakers by streaming down along my ankles/socks, which is why I have doubts if shoes covers would be of any help when I cycle in shorts (but I've never really used them so please correct me if I'm wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's of any importance - if I wear the same clothes and just go for a walk/jog, then my feet stay dry for much longer. Ideal solution would allow my feet to stay dry for a similar amount of time when I cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21295" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T12:22:38.873" Title="Shoe covers (or other tricks) for commuting in shorts" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;&lt;weather&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32976" CreationDate="2015-08-26T19:24:14.777" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing that would determine whether or not a particular brand or style of shoe cover will help would be the closure around your ankle, above the top of the shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard, non-cycling over-shoe or shoe cover like those made by Totes and other manufacturers will usually cover most of the shoe, but the opening is wide and water will run down your leg into the shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cycling specific shoe cover will usually have some kind of opening in the back that zips closed. When you place your foot into the cover it zips partly up your leg and will stop most of the water from running into your shoe. I personally use neoprene covers, but covers of other materials may work just find as long as they close relatively tightly against your leg. If the closure is not quite tight enough, wearing an old-fashioned terry cloth sweat wrist band above your ankle and under the shoe cover would help absorb any water that leaks in. I have a set of 2&quot; wide reflective bands with a terry cloth backing that I occasionally overlapping the top edge of mine if I think the rain will be torrential. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are wearing a shoe that is not cycling specific, you will likely want to visit your local bike shop or outdoor retailer to try the covers on. If you buy online based on the size of your shoe you will likely want to order a size up at least to account for the additional sole support and padding in a normal shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T19:24:14.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32976" CreationDate="2015-08-26T21:43:28.010" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if I wear the same clothes and just go for a walk/jog, then my feet stay dry for much longer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/2803#2803&quot;&gt;mudguards (fenders)&lt;/a&gt; on your bike? If not your feet are in the spray from the front wheel and will get wet unless you wear over-boots. Or gumboots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cycling when the roads are wet mudguards make a huge different to your comfort. You'll stay dryer because the rain will only hit you from above, rather than spraying up from your wheels as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gary.Ray's answer deals well with the actual shoe cover question. What I would add is that plastic bags and rubber bands work well as a short-term solution for one trip, but they don't last long. But that might help you decide whether shoe covers are worth having at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T21:43:28.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-26T22:19:20.297" Score="0" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old 1998 Lemond Zurich, and I recently purchased new wheels. The old bike had drop-out adjusters. When I added the new wheels I felt like my bike was rubbing against the brakes, then all of a sudden the rear wheel was dislodged and started rubbing against the chainstay. After the ride, I found the dropout pins (adjusters) spring were old and unaligned. I was able to remove the drop-out adjusters, so I'm hoping that fixes the problem and the wheel does not fall off again. However, the wheel sits a good 1 cm further into the drop outs. Could this new position effect shifting? Do I need to add chain links? I'm not interested in knowing why my wheels are falling out, just whether I should adjust my chain or derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21300" LastEditorUserId="21300" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T21:33:32.993" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T21:33:32.993" Title="I removed the drop-out adjusters... Do I need to adjust my derailleur or add chain or both?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;rear-wheel&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32976" CreationDate="2015-08-27T01:09:47.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like you say, your feet get wettest from the rain running down your legs and into your shoes. The only way to stop this is a shoe cover system that seals at your ankle. I don't know of a commercially available system like this but if you are truly serious you could make something with bags and rubber bands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestions about fenders are well and good but on more than one occasion I've had the wind just right that an entire fender-load of water poured into my shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are fighting a losing battle. The better bet is to keep dry shoes at work or carry some with you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T01:09:47.797" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32981" CreationDate="2015-08-27T01:20:17.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So you might be about two links short, or you could move the wheel forward. The purpose of the adjusters is to make it easy to position the wheel. The tension on the quick release skewer is what actually keeps the wheel in place. From what you describe it sounds like the skewer wasn't generating enough tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locate the wheel where you want it – I'd put it where the old wheel was.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adust the quick release handle so that it is pointing strait out, parallel to the axle (perpendicular to the wheel).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the adjusting nut on the skewer until all of the gap is taken up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Press the lever home into the closed position – it should take some force. If you can't get it to go parallel to the chain stay, then back off the adjusting nut. Just a little bit, maybe a quarter turn, and check again. Don't be afraid to push reasonably hard, the lever should leave a bit of a mark in your palm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do that, the wheel should hold where you put it. You might want to put the adjusters back in. They will help get the wheel in the right place, so you won't need so many hands to install it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T01:20:17.893" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33003" CreationDate="2015-08-27T08:06:41.547" Score="1" ViewCount="8601" Body="&lt;p&gt;my rear wheel has a constant bump whenever I ride . I've done all that came to mind at firs. Deflated and checked the tire  , checked the axel for bends , checked the ball bearings , made shure the break is not rubbing and that the wheel is properly tightened on the frame . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I did notice is that when I spin it in my hand I can feel the ball barings sort of lightly scratching with the axel ? I know that can be a problem for them but could that also cause that constant bump ? Any solution you have would be welcomed to check out .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21305" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T18:30:35.000" Title="Rear wheel constant bump" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32976" CreationDate="2015-08-27T08:58:31.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to ride in almost exactly the same gear as you (gym shorts rather than casual shorts), so I know where you're coming from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mudguards (US: fenders) help a little, but not if it's actually raining while you're riding, as you basically ride into the rain drops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not the shorts, cycling tights/running leggings will do the same.  Even waterproof overtrousers are of limited help as the headwind from riding tends to push them against your shin.  And you get so hot you'll be almost as wet from sweat (&quot;breathable&quot; kit  doesn't work too well with a film of wtare on the outside while you're actively sweating ).  I haven't tried shoe covers but would only consider them in the winter -- in summer (even UK summer) I'd rather get rained on than boil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I found was that after riding for 40 minutes in waterproof shoes I could at least wring my socks out and sometimes pour the water out (you can't &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; stop pedalling for puddles, e.g. a little dip on an uphill).  In hot weather (sometimes with sudden downpours) I wore sports sandals, and the water just went straight through and out the other side.  Now I've got SPDs I've got ventilated shoes (even on the sole) and the water can't accumulate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion: Go for shoe covers when it's cold, but in warmer weather choose shoes that can't fill up with water (also maybe no socks).  Either way a change of shoes/socks on arrival is probably appropriate, even though you have a .ac.uk homepage listed and can probably wear what you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T08:58:31.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32988" CreationDate="2015-08-27T09:27:09.147" Score="0" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned to ride a bike quite recently and I was thinking about moving to Marseille next year to study.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love bikes and I would love to be able to get one there and move around the city using it. I've also seen that there are a lot of beautiful locations surrounding the city and I would love to know if I could get there using the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mentioned the fact that I learned to ride quite recently because I am still afraid of the cars and I would prefer not to ride along the cars in the road. So, &lt;strong&gt;is there any kind of cycle lane to move around the city?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if anyone could tell me if it is usual for the residents to move around using a bike it would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21306" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T10:40:46.133" Title="Is Marseille a safe place to ride a bicycle?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;urban-riding&gt;&lt;city&gt;&lt;learning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32987" CreationDate="2015-08-27T10:40:46.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marseille was voted worst French city for cyclist in 2013 (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fubicy.org/spip.php?article41&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), but apparently they are trying to change that. Here are potentially useful links: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pistes-cyclables.com/2014/12/plan-des-pistes-cyclables-de-marseille/&quot;&gt;maps of cycle lanes in the city&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.levelo-mpm.fr/&quot;&gt;a city bike rental scheme run by the city&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should keep the following in mind also: Marseille gets very hot in the summer and is one of the worst French city for air pollution. You should also get a very good bike lock as theft is rife in some neighbourhoods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite all this, I think it doesn't hurt to try it for a while using the bike rental scheme (first 30 minute is free apparently) and decide if it's for you or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19001" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T10:40:46.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32991" CreationDate="2015-08-27T10:54:11.440" Score="3" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the picture of the cable from my rear V-brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oauQw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oauQw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see it's worn down. Should I replace it now or is it safe to use it for some more time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13656" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T21:36:22.457" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T23:31:38.813" Title="When should I replace the brake cable?" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32990" CreationDate="2015-08-27T11:26:03.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, at least one strand has broken. Looks like this happened where the cable was previously under the fastening bolt. Since then, the cable has been let out, maybe to allow for new brake pads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would probably last a while before more strands break. But a new cable is only around $5. It's very important to be able to stop your bike reliably, so I would definitely replace it now. It's an easy change to make, cables ends normally slot in fairly easily to the brake levers on V-brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T11:26:03.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32668" CreationDate="2015-08-27T11:26:06.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One good route when you already have a bike with working components is secondhand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might seem daunting if you don't know much - but the gears and brakes should work, suspension should bounce smoothly without creaking, and basically no play in anything that slides, hinges, or spins.  A good first test for play is to pick up the whole bike and shake it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any few little niggles on the &quot;new&quot; bike can probably be taken care of immediately with bits off your old, and when you have a day spare with some rags, brushes, and WD40, you can get whatever's left ready to go right back on ebay or sell to mates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11518" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T11:26:06.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32993" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-27T11:40:54.043" Score="3" ViewCount="5035" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the four lowest gears (i.e the 28 cog end) when in both the big and small ring, loud noises can be heard coming from what appears to be near the front derailleur. I've uploaded a video of the noise here: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/xHgz9cWfNMI?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I shift up from the 4th smallest gear then the noise goes away. I've checked to make show the chain isn't rubbing on the derailleur cage, and it doesn't look like it is. I've attached a picture of what it looks like when in the small ring and the 3rd lowest gear in the back. I even tried to set the low limit of the front derailleur so the cage moves in further towards the bike to see if it was in fact the cage, but that didn't seem to make the noise go away either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is there something I'm doing wrong here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gl3ys.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gl3ys.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;chain line&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18835" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T21:47:05.083" Title="Chain really noisy near front derailleur on low gears but doesn't appear to be rubbing." Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32976" CreationDate="2015-08-27T12:22:38.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I personally wear overshoes and SPDs, the best you can really expect in a prolonged downpour is that water enters your shoes slowly enough your feet can warm it up - they'll still be wet eventually, but not cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the best system for casual clothes is actually to stick a rain cape/poncho over the top - the cycling-specific ones are designed to attach at the wrists, so they cover you completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should still get mudguards if you can, both to stop your front wheel spraying your feet, and because it's much better for your drivetrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T12:22:38.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32998" CreationDate="2015-08-27T12:23:24.377" Score="1" ViewCount="788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of buying a Trek CrossRip or 720 touring bike, but I want it with Ultegra Di2 and the bikes are only listed on the Trek website with lower-end components.  So I'd like to buy a frameset and build it up the way I want...but how?  I don't live in the US and the official Trek LBS I've been to is outrageously expensive for everything, so ideally I'd want to buy online.  The Trek 720 is a brand new model so finding a used one in the right size seems very unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some brands list framesets on their websites separately, including Trek, but the particular frames I'd want aren't listed this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T03:18:26.633" Title="Is it possible to buy a frameset from Trek that isn't listed separately?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;build&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-27T12:34:51.750" Score="1" ViewCount="4363" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just bought the 2015 Fuji Touring Bike and it came with bar-end shifters. I do a lot of city riding so having STI &quot;Brifters&quot; is really convenient in hilly city traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is my Fuji Touring comes with a 9x3 Deore rear derailleur and a Altus front derailleur. The only 9x3 STI brifter I could find was Shimano Sora. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now technically the Deore/Altus groupset is for mountain biking and the SORA is for Road bikes. Can I put the SORA &quot;Brifters&quot; on the the Deore/Altus  groupset? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Fuji Touring Specs Here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://archive.fujibikes.com/archivebikes.php?prodid=3591&amp;amp;prodname=Touring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://archive.fujibikes.com/archivebikes.php?prodid=3591&amp;amp;prodname=Touring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21309" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T16:39:49.437" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T16:39:49.437" Title="Putting Shimano SORA STI Shifters on Touring Bike with Deore Derailleur" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32996" CreationDate="2015-08-27T12:41:52.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the rear, a 9 speed Sora brifter will be fine -- 9 speed cable pull is the same between Shimano road and mountain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the front, the bike has a Shimano Altus front derailleur. You'll need to swap a road triple front derailleur for that (make sure to check the spec sheet to ensure your crankset's chainring sizes are within spec (not a problem) and the difference between the largest and smallest chainring are within spec (can be a problem) ) -- the bike you have has a tooth difference of 22t for the crankset, which is slightly higher than the 20t that the Sora FD-3403 or FD-3503 is rated for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are triple front derailleurs (e.g. Microshift R539) which will have the right front tooth difference though (comes in braze-on and band mounting, depending on the type of mount on your frame). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T12:48:17.750" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T12:48:17.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32995" CreationDate="2015-08-27T13:00:28.923" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Trek will not sell you just the frame if they don't offer it in their product lineup. And a bike shop wouldn't either, given that they have to buy the whole bike anyway. It's just a massive headache to allow things like that for manufacturers. And many manufacturers generally aren't all too keen on letting people sell their bikes online (accessories are fine to some extent). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, why would you put Di2 on a crossrip? It's frame isn't designed for it (e.g. mounting the battery), and its quite low end compared to what people would run Di2 on (a Di2 groupset costs &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; than most of the crossrip models out there, as complete bikes!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T13:00:28.923" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33008" CreationDate="2015-08-27T14:33:31.553" Score="1" ViewCount="8539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a stock Giant Escape 1 Hybrid which I would like to raise the handle bars on for a more upright position. I'm looking for comfort not speed on my commute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in thinking the easiest way is to replace the stem with a steeper angle / shorter length? I was thinking something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ritchey-adjustable-mountain-bike-stem/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; so I could &quot;dial it in&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an easier way and / or am I barking up the wrong tree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20577" LastActivityDate="2019-08-17T04:50:49.937" Title="Raising the bars on a stock Giant Escape Hybrid" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;giant&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11255" CreationDate="2015-08-27T15:35:44.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can enter a custom size you can measure your wheel using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure you diameter (typically in centimeters). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diameter * 3.1415 = custom size to enter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another method would be to mark the ground and tire with chalk where the tire hits, roll the bike forward and mark where it hits again. Then measure between the two marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21310" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T17:44:55.620" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T17:44:55.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32990" CreationDate="2015-08-27T18:22:32.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Derailer cables operating an indexed derailer wear out much faster than brake cables, and in fact brake cables can go a long time before needing replacement. However, while a broken derailer cable is inconvenient, a broken brake cable is dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would replace it right away. Brake cable replacement, including the labor, is cheap--certainly when compared to the cost of an ER visit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T18:22:32.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32985" CreationDate="2015-08-27T18:30:35.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you recently replaced a tire or tube? If so, then the tire may not be properly seated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the wheel, hold it in your lap lying flat, and rotate the wheel around looking at the edge of the rim and tire. You are looking for a &quot;low spot&quot; where the tire appears to &quot;disappear&quot; down into the wheel. It will be slight, but it doesn't take much. My old road bike has 27x1 (630x25) tires, and they can be a challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find a &quot;low spot&quot;, deflate the tube, put a little bit of dishwashing soap and water on the tire at the bead, and inflate the tube. You may hear a pop sound when the tire bead seats properly into the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T18:30:35.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32993" CreationDate="2015-08-27T19:31:12.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the geometry of your frame, the noise could very well be caused by cross chaining, especially if you have very short chain stays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've ruled out rubbing, and this is in fact the problem, you don't have many options unfortunately. You can pick a cassette/crank combination that ensures you spend most of your time riding in the middle of your gear range with the chain line is as straight as possible. For most road riders this means picking up a compact crankset and pairing it with a comfortable cassette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T19:31:12.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32993" CreationDate="2015-08-27T20:07:49.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ascertain that the chain is not visibly touching the front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that your rear cassette is fitted correctly; lock-ring is tight and the correct spacers used between sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you using a matching chain, chain rings and rear derailleur? i.e. are they  all 'n' speed; i.e. do not mix and match a 9 speed chain with a 11 speed cassette or derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is your rear derailleur vertically aligned correctly, not subject to crash damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're on Shimano, is the b adjustment screw of your rear shimano derailleur correct such that the rear derailleur does not touch the cassette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is you rear derailleur compatible with the large sprockets you have on your cassette?  e.g. a short arm rear derailleur may only support up to 25 tooth sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have the correct length of chain to support the gear range you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13876" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T20:07:49.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32990" CreationDate="2015-08-27T23:31:38.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - replace it as soon as convenient.  You might go another year or two with it in that state, but its a couple of dollars for a straddle cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the front one too, and consider replacing both cables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you're at it, give all the brake cables an eyeball, and if you find any damage then replace them all.  A pair of inners costs under $20.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're brakes - they have to work when you need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T23:31:38.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24292" CreationDate="2015-08-27T23:48:06.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am contemplating this - fit a &quot;truck bed front fork clamp&quot; to the parcel rack on my electric bike and tow the other bike.  Have to remove the front wheel and strap it on the towed bike's frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly could get away with an old front hub sans spokes, and clamp that onto your rack or even the rear seat stay of teh front bike. Have to watch the clearances of course,  left/right turns as well as up/down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;300mm velcro cableties will be used to strap towed bike's front wheel to the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I did this and it was not a success.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/54914/19705&quot;&gt;Complete write up in this answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2018-05-31T04:22:26.863" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T04:22:26.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32999" CreationDate="2015-08-28T04:07:07.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If utility is more important that looks, a stem riser will get you a long way (well 50 - 80 mm, about 2 to 3 inches). There are various makers, but they all look more or less like this one. Prices run from about US $15 to $30. The riser and the existing spacers take care of the holding the headset, you don't need spacers under the stem with the riser – just the spacers between the bottom of the riser and the headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c1sl4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c1sl4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Generic threadless stem riser from Harris Cyclery&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that an adjustable stem like you suggested and/or bars with an upward bend will all help. Shortening the reach may also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that as you raise the bars you may find that cables are coming up short. You may have already done this, but a &quot;trick&quot; that works for me is to &quot;visualize&quot; where I want the bars by riding with my fingertips or even no-hands as I look for a place where I will feel comfortable. I've found that I can get very close this way and it's a lot less work (and money) than changing parts. Once I know about where I want the bars, I buy the parts to fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T04:16:32.797" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T04:16:32.797" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-28T10:19:32.280" Score="3" ViewCount="3631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Specalized drink bottle holder and was always using normal 750ml plastic bottles, but they never fit very well. I was looking online for water bottles and now I'm wondering if all bottles that can be found online (e.g. on bikester.com) will fit into my holder or do I have to be careful with what I buy? Are there different sizes of bottles and holders or all they standardized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21320" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T10:37:02.553" Title="Does every drink bottle fit into every holder?" Tags="&lt;bottle&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33010" CreationDate="2015-08-28T10:37:02.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inexpensive bottle cages can be bent to make them a little smaller for a tighter fit. If the type you have is a closed  loop type you can add rubber bands to the bottle for a more secure fit if it is loose. There seems to be a lot more size variation with generic &quot;sport bottles&quot; than the bottles marketed to cyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T10:37:02.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33016" CreationDate="2015-08-28T10:43:39.657" Score="15" ViewCount="1782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commute to work on a Trek 7100e hybrid bike. It's about 15 miles (24km) each way, along flattish suburban roads and a (fairly smooth) canal towpath. It takes me about an hour. Due to the distance (and extra time compared to driving), I only do this about once a week. I'm a medium-height, slightly built guy, reasonable fitness level. What is the best way to improve my speed and reduce my time, without spending much money?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pedals - I don't really want to go clipless due to the expense, but I'd consider it if it's the best way. Are toe clips and straps likely to make much difference?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reducing 'luggage weight'. My standard pack for work is a change of clothes and some basic bike maintenance stuff (tube, pump, tools, and a cable lock). It's currently in a double pannier that's probably overkill. Should I consider going to a rack trunk, a handlebar bag (no rack required), or something else? I don't like cycling that far with a backpack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyres - change to slicks? Or narrower tyres? Would that mean I'd need to change the wheels too?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd assumed (and read somewhere here) that changing to drop handlebars would be more trouble than it's worth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something I haven't thought of?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; - just a quick update. A work colleague had some spare LOOK clipless pedals and shoes, so I gave them a try. And I'm a convert! I see a definite improvement in performance, especially in acceleration - I can get up to speed a lot quicker than I could before. Thanks to everyone who answered. I'll probably try skinnier tyres too, but not until I actually need to change them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt; three years on. I upgraded to a road bike (Pinnacle Dolomite 4, 2016) and that's been the biggest improvement in speed. I still have a rack on the back (just a rack top bag now, no panniers), clipless pedals, and 25mm tyres inflated to 100psi. I usually try to leave some clothes in work to reduce weight. Record time is now 51 minutes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8048" LastEditorUserId="8048" LastEditDate="2019-06-13T11:54:13.870" LastActivityDate="2019-12-14T14:59:29.073" Title="How to improve my performance on a commute?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="10" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20637" CreationDate="2015-08-28T11:48:08.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If part of the key is in the lock, your best bet is to save the key stub and use it to turn the lock. The trick is to get the broken off piece in the right position – not too far out and not too far in – and turn it. It'll work like a regular key, and I've opened a few locks with broken off keys this way. Instead of the stub, a screwdriver might also do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lock mechanism is rusty, try spraying some WD-40 on it and let it sit overnight. If it's very rusty, repeat the exercise one more time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pushed the broken off piece in too far, it will not turn. In that case, you could try with a dab of super glue on the key stub, press it onto the fragment, let it harden and pull it out a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13538" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T11:48:08.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2015-08-28T12:20:05.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the remnants of the key are still in the lock, your best bet is to get them in the right position (far enough but not too far in) and turn the piece to open the lock. The stub of the key may come in handy if you still have it, else try a screwdriver or similar. I've opened a few locks that way. Once you've opened the lock, banging it on the sidewalk might shake out the broken-off piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pushed the broken off piece in too far, try a dab of Super Glue on the stub (or other tool), being careful not to let it get on the inside of the lock, let it harden and pull out the piece of key far enough to turn the lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13538" LastEditorUserId="13174" LastEditDate="2018-02-19T08:51:54.060" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T08:51:54.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33012" CreationDate="2015-08-28T13:03:33.267" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted a comment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Slick tires would make a difference, if you're not using them. Maintaining 24 kph on a hybrid that you ride one day a week is pretty good. The next two increments after slick tires would be clipless pedals, riding more frequently, and then a road bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... but decided a full answer was needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the trip is 24 km, doing it in 60 minutes is 24 kph. Not bad for a lightly built guy riding a hybrid that is reported to be heavy, one day per week. By my figures, you're putting about 150 watts into the pedals to do that. This assumes you're using wide, non-slick tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Switching to thinner, slick road tires would gain you 2 kph for the same effort, possibly 3 kph. That gets you there 5 minutes quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to put 150 watts into the pedals, you have to produce more, because without your feet being clipped in, they will slide a little, and you have to use energy to keep them in place. Lets guess that's 10% of your effort - 15 watts. So you're really producing 165 watts. That translates to about 1 kph faster if you were clipped in. But as the late night TV ads say, &lt;em&gt;but wait there's more&lt;/em&gt;. With your feet clipped in, you can produce more power because you can pull the pedals up as well as push down. How much more? The experts argue. Some claim 15%, others 40%. If it's 15%, that's another 24 watts (15% of 165). So after your aerobic system has adapted to delivering that much extra oxygen, you'll be up to about 29 kph. But I think you'd need to be riding three times a week to develop that sustained pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra training can take you faster, if you are riding regularly. How much is up to your innate abilities and dedication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how to go even faster? A road bike. For the same power that drives you at 29 kph on the hybrid, you'll go at 31 kph on a road bike, getting you there in 47 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you said you didn't want to spend much money. I'm arguing that clipless pedals will give you good return. They also &lt;em&gt;support&lt;/em&gt; you as you work to increase your strength and fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T14:09:59.510" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T14:09:59.510" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33012" CreationDate="2015-08-28T14:09:05.310" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you take the clothes in to work when you're driving anyway the tools etc. should fit in one or more of [saddle bag/triangle bag/top-tube bag] (the last of these is nice for a smartphone as well).  Removing the panniers and rack will reduce drag as well as weight, and at these speeds drag is important (don't forget the 24km/h is an average including stops and slowing down for bends etc.).    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For commuting on &quot;fairly smooth&quot; stuff like most towpaths, slicks may be going too far, but tyres designed for touring &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be better than what you've got (the stock tyres on hybrids vary a lot, you could tell us what yours are).  If you're buying new tyres anyway, go for anti-puncture  -- on most roads the average commute over a few months will be quicker because the loss of time to a puncture is so much more than to the weight/rolling resistance penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without changing your bars or going for a road bike you may find a slightly more tucked position beneficial (by adjusting the stem or tilting riser bars forwards).  Tucked vs. upright on my hybrid makes about 10% difference in downhill peak speed in a test I did recently, so a marginally more aerodynamic position &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; gain you a few minutes if you're equally efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for pedals, I recently switched to SPDs for commuting.  The benefit is marginal if you have a lot of stops unless you can track-stand or clip in very fast -- clipping in causes a slight delay but then you can accelerate harder.  You could consider half-clips -- I wish I had. These will help stop your feet sliding around and may fit cheaply to your existing pedals.  They're basically toe-clips without straps, and won't let you pull-up, but the benefit of this is still under debate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your commute is an hour by bike and half that by car, you might find that knocking a few minutes off would mean you could happily ride twice a week, then you'd get (bike-)fitter, saving a few more minutes.  Once a week is actually hard, 2-3x is good in terms of tiredness and perceived effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T14:09:05.310" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9615" CreationDate="2015-08-28T16:40:33.480" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;study&lt;/a&gt; I know of concluded that cross chaining in relatively modern 9spd gear systems at the angles typical of bicycles had no measurable effect on the efficiency of the gearing system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even back in the bad old days of 52/42 with five cogs in the back, I never worried about cross chaining. Use the gears you like and replace the chain when it starts to show wear and your relatively expensive cogsets will last a very long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Riding with a worn chain destroys gears, not cross chaining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T16:40:33.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33033" CreationDate="2015-08-28T19:29:20.337" Score="4" ViewCount="1719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at options for new winter footwear and am split between buying new boots (must be look/3 bolt, which seems to constrain options somewhat) or buying covers, specifically the neoprene style which zips up the back and exposed ones' cleats through the bottom.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm weighing pros and cons and would like to get others' thoughts as to their own experience with boots vs. covers.  Also, I have wide feet and would need boots that fit accordingly (like a Lake wide or Sidi Mega) - not asking for a product recommendation but this constrains options and is an important consideration for me.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Covers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper than new boots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They must be taken on and off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aesthetically, they aren't pleasing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durability is a question&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;New Boots&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Durable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly more cold &amp;amp; water resistant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More aesthetically pleasing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility of hard break in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility of worse fit than ones regular shoes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limited options for Look compared to SPD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T02:19:45.983" Title="Winter boots or neoprene covers?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="884" CreationDate="2015-08-28T19:55:31.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened to my Kryptonite Series 2 recently. The key inserted fine and got stuck during the turn. I was able to unlock it by pumping the key cylinder with a lot of wd-40 and then jiggling the key vigorously for about 10 minutes before it would turn or remove. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21334" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T19:55:31.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-28T20:01:41.560" Score="0" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my goals, I am looking at a Kestrel Talon 2015 as it fits my price point and I like the combination of road cycling or switching to tri fit (albeit jack of all trades but master of none).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now trying to figure out if the Kestrel will fit my body dimensions (following the Eddie fit). From what I've read, sure being able to stand over the bike is important, but it seems the effective top tube length is most critical. I know the best advice is to try the Kestrel out at a LBS, but there are none near me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I followed the measurements on &lt;code&gt;competitivecyclist.com&lt;/code&gt; and here are my specs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Your Measurements   &#xA;Inseam: 75&#xA;Trunk: 62&#xA;Forearm: 32&#xA;Arm: 55&#xA;Thigh: 54&#xA;Lower Leg: 48.5&#xA;Sternal Notch: 137.5&#xA;Total Body Height: 166&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;The Eddy Fit (cm)&#xA;Seat Tube Range c–c: 49.8 - 50.2 cm&#xA;Seat Tube Range c–t: 51.2 - 51.8 cm&#xA;Top Tube Length: 50.8 - 51.2 cm&#xA;Stem Length: 9.1 - 9.7 cm&#xA;BB–Saddle Position: 63.2 - 65.2 cm&#xA;Saddle Handlebar: 48.5 - 49.1 cm&#xA;Saddle Setback: 4 - 4.4 cm&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Kestrel Talon, here are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kestrelbicycles.com/road/talon-road-shimano-105&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;specs&lt;/a&gt;. I'm stuck between the 48 cm &amp;amp; 52 cm frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the 48 cm frame's top tube, the effective top tube length is 51 cm, which is I think very close to what the Eddy fit says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'm leaning more towards the 48 cm, but not too sure if I'm missing something obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21331" LastEditorUserId="21331" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T21:54:05.930" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T21:54:05.930" Title="Bike Size Question - Kestrel Talon" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;bike-selection&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32853" CreationDate="2015-08-28T20:51:31.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this Technical FAQ from VeloNews (&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/05/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-tire-grip-wet-conditions_328827&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/05/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-tire-grip-wet-conditions_328827&lt;/a&gt;), several tire manufacturers answer the questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do slick tires have less traction than treads in wet weather?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does lowering tire pressure help in wet weather?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specialized, Challenge, Vittoria, and Continental all respond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this question is slightly different from yours, the elements discussed in the answers are directly applicable to non-wet conditions.  As one responder points out, pro mechanics tune tire pressures based on rider style, rider weight, ambient conditions and specific road conditions. So, the only real answer to your question is that &quot;it depends&quot;, because what works for me in my situation may not work for you--at least considering that there are too many variables and not enough of them are known in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have raced on 700x25 continentals inflated to 110psi on dry asphalt and cornered just fine at 25+mph.  I have raced 700x23 (same tire) at over 120 and cornered off-cambers just fine.  But I've also raced both those tires at lower pressure and cornered just fine.  And I've raced tubular tires at far lower pressures, cornered at race speeds, and been fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all tires and riders are equal.  Not all roads are equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T20:51:31.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33054" CreationDate="2015-08-28T21:19:40.417" Score="3" ViewCount="3591" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the advantages of bigger wheel?&#xA;I feel that it's more forgiving on rough road, giving that the tyre width and pressure are the same. Is it just my imagination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since population height is improving, why don't we have even bigger wheel by now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T07:12:27.283" Title="What are advantages of bigger wheel?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8909" CreationDate="2015-08-28T21:22:43.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't over shift if your rear derailleur is adjusted correctly (the high and low limit screws will prevent it). You will just have a phantom gear – like they say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21335" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T23:48:45.557" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T23:48:45.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33024" CreationDate="2015-08-28T21:50:37.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first question is, relatively, easy to answer. Larger wheels have an easier time negotiating obstacles – roughness on the road and timbers and crevasses on the trail. The larger the wheel, the more it can span holes and the easier time it has climbing over stuff. The downside of large wheels is more rotating mass out at the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second question is much harder to answer, but I would guess it has a lot to do the relative slowness of height growth and the costs of adding a new wheel size (since the old ones probably won't just go away).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T21:50:37.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20501" CreationDate="2015-08-28T22:02:44.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me a decent commuting camera is &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.driftinnovation.com/cameras/drift-stealth-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Drift Stealth 2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's small and light and doesn't distract you when you ride, has long battery life (about 3 hours) and can record footage in a continuous loop, so you will never lack memory to keep a video. And it's cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21336" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T00:36:25.223" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T00:36:25.223" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-08-28T22:02:44.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33030" CreationDate="2015-08-28T22:13:44.263" Score="8" ViewCount="1721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time-Trial and Triathlon bikes differ from normal road bikes in that they are designed for maximum efficiency when riding alone (not in a group). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, then, is the difference between them? Would there be something wrong with using a TT bike in a triathlon, or vice-versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be an objective difference between the two, and I often see them lumped together as a category. Is there a significant (if any) difference between them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T00:24:08.020" Title="What is the difference between Time-Trial and Triathlon bikes?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33028" CreationDate="2015-08-29T00:24:08.020" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are very similar but have to follow different certification rules. For example, under &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uci.ch/inside-uci/rules-and-regulations/regulations/&quot;&gt;UCI regulation&lt;/a&gt;s the saddle of a TT bike must be at least 5 cm behind a vertical line drawn through the bottom bracket (cf. Rules 1.3.011 to 1.3.025), there are constraints on the size, shape, and orientation of frame members, and so on. Triathlon bikes are certified under a different set of rules depending on the race being run and allow a greater degree of integration of components (such as water bottles that are designed to fit within the frame in a way that enhances aerodynamics). Currently, any UCI-certified TT bike can be used in a triathlon but not all triathlon bikes are allowable in UCI-sanctioned races. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T00:24:08.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2015-08-29T02:59:24.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It protects your balls from being smashed and when you ride if bike it feels nice to just sit down and be low to he ground with a low center of gravity. It makes it a lot easier to bust off tricks and just feel comfortable sitting down waiting for your turn in the bowls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21341" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T02:59:24.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24490" CreationDate="2015-08-29T04:35:29.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My SORA front derailleur cable broke (after gear change difficulties for several tens of kilometres, and ineffective cable length adjustments). I replaced the cable, but I still had to push the gear change lever very hard to change chain wheels (which is when I found this web page). The culprit was the plastic cable guide screwed onto the frame under the crank (GIANT Cross City 3). This guide had been cut through by the front derailleur cable and the cable had started cutting into the frame. After replacing this plastic guide ($3.00), as well as the cable, changing the chain wheel is almost as easy as when brand new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21342" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T04:35:29.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33020" CreationDate="2015-08-29T07:55:41.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For pure road-riding: Neoprene covers over normal road-shoes are the best as long as you don't have to put a foot down too often. The cleats are prone to clogging in snowy conditions. But then you wouldn't certainly get on a bike. On the other hand, ankle hugging covers keep the rain running down the legs into the shoe, which could happen with insulated boots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cross-country riding or commuting: Specific insulated and waterproof (membrane-type) shoes with profiled soles for MTB-cleats and MTB-pedals are a very reliable solution. MTB-cleats and pedals by design cope better with adverse conditions like mud and snow. And the shoes are more wear resistant than covers if you need to walk longer distances and there is less trouble to put them on and take them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T07:55:41.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33050" CreationDate="2015-08-29T10:23:27.033" Score="1" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some photos of the bike &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/rIozR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/rIozR&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I get a rough value of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69I59.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/69I59.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13790" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T06:50:37.013" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T06:50:37.013" Title="What is the usual value of a Fit bike pro bmx second hand?" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;price&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-04-15T01:11:54.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33041" CreationDate="2015-08-29T11:31:09.780" Score="5" ViewCount="4014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old rear wheel - I think its from a Raleigh Arena roadbike from the late 70s or early 80s.   There are broken spokes that require the sprockets removed to access.  I've done this plenty of times on 26&quot; MTB type wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bike has me stuck - its a 6 speed and I cannot get the freewheel off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTbVo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTbVo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;First image, before removing lock ring&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the first shot, after the axle and ball bearings were removed but with the lock ring and dust shield in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rw2wT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rw2wT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;After locking and dustshield removal.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ol2IB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ol2IB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Same as above but with better lighting&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used a &quot;hook&quot; tool to unscrew the lockring - it was a standard righthand thread.   The dust cover responded to a screwdriver so I gently levered it out without bending it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is - do I continue using chain whips to try and unscrew each sprocket, or do I try and snag something into those two slots in the side of the bearing cup, or are those 9 tiny little slots where some special tool should engage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T04:00:32.130" LastActivityDate="2020-06-25T09:55:45.137" Title="Old freewheel removal" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T18:21:14.463" Score="7" ViewCount="2576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Bianchi eros with 650c wheels. My back wheel was driven into and is now buckled and I am finding it very difficult to replace it without spending hundreds of pounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another wheel size that I can use instead of the 650c that will fit on this frame? Or is there a manufacturer that I have overlooked that still makes 650c wheels for an affordable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21346" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T18:23:30.137" LastActivityDate="2020-05-06T19:29:54.653" Title="Can I replace my 650c wheels with a more standard size?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33036" CreationDate="2015-08-29T20:05:34.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your best bet is to go visit your local shop and ask them to remove it. Many freewheels look similar to cassettes when disassembled. They drive in a similar method with indexed notches to align the different sprockets. I believe yours is a freewheel. The lock ring threads being on the outside are one hint it may be a freewheel. As such there are a myriad of tools that fit different brands and models. Any tool you order unseen will at best be a guess that it is the correct one. The notch dimensions and I.D. can be difficult to measure. If you are the &quot;need a new tool&quot; kind of guy ask the shop to find the correct tool and buy it from them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T20:05:34.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33036" CreationDate="2015-08-29T21:39:11.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like the first question to answer here is: freewheel vs. cassette. The, assumed, age of the wheel and being a 6-speed does suggest that it's a freewheel. However, even if it is an original wheel from the late '70s it is not out of the question that it could be a cassette (at least &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cogset#Cassettes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;according to Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the parts, I see several clues that make me think cassette:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The three rivets visible in the second and later photos.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nine splines around the outside of the freewheel/cassette body.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown has a page called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Freewheel or Cassette&lt;/a&gt; that may help. The biggest differentiator that he mentions is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On freewheels&lt;/strong&gt; the extractor splines &lt;strong&gt;do not&lt;/strong&gt; move when it is spun backwards, but&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On cassettes&lt;/strong&gt; the lockring splines &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; turn when it is spun backwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also mentions that many cassette hubs have a distinctive bulge, like the one on the image below, on the cassette side of the hub. Sheldon says that if it is there you almost certainly have a freehub, but that the absence of a bulge is not a definitive sign of a freewheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zzNYY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zzNYY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano freehub showing bulge inboard of cassette.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know what you've got you'll know if the the strategy is to unthread the freewheel body or to find a way to loosen and lift off the cassette. It is possible that the cassette has worn into the freehub body, like this image from Sheldon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d41Qu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/d41Qu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Off brand aluminum freehub body showing splines damaged by cassette.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and will need some fiddling to remove. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artscyclery.com/learningcenter/stuckcassettesonalloyfreehubs.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article and video&lt;/a&gt; may help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T21:39:11.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32955" CreationDate="2015-08-29T21:51:44.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can run lower pressure on wider &lt;strong&gt;tires&lt;/strong&gt;. Think about it this way: you need a certain amount of force holding the rims up off of the road. You can get if from a small contact patch and a lot of pressure or from a larger contact area and a lower pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as you increase the width of the rim the tire goes from an approximation of a circle to a box to a thin sheet of rubber – you loose the flexibility of the sidewalls that comes from the more or less circular shape of a properly matched tire to rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T21:51:44.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33053" CreationDate="2015-08-29T23:09:08.917" Score="6" ViewCount="3310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was trying to adjust the position of my handle bar...but might have turned the screw too hard in the wrong direction or perhaps it was like this earlier...not sure....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/HdypNUTOOVU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Is there anything that can be done or its too late ?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 3 - Thank you All for the help !! This is now resolved, I was messing with the wrong screws...there was one underneath and that was the one I had to loosen to change the position of the handlebar - &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/rvKs2ytBmp0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is what had to be done&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and thx to the immediate response from Pacific Cycles (Schwinn) letting me know what had to be done !!&#xA;Update 2 - I removed the other side screw and am attaching some photos, and a video which might give some more ideas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update 1 - thanks for all the great suggestions folks ! I will try out the options and report back !!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bad screw (you might see that it is almost gone round)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPJ5T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jPJ5T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the bad side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Good screw on the other side&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SvpX5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SvpX5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the good side&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iMnn5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iMnn5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xb95l.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xb95l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21053" LastEditorUserId="21053" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T16:05:15.930" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T16:05:15.930" Title="Adjust handlebar position/height (damaged screw?)" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27307" CreationDate="2015-08-29T23:49:14.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great ideas above re calculating actual circumference via wheel travel (toothpaste!)...I just used a marker placed based on valve stem, rolled out one revolution (valve stem returns to 6 o'clock) and got 2209mm (it is a new single speed 650B/27.5&quot; MTB).  Unfortunately my CPU did not afford a manual entry so I used this table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to locate the nearest circumference. I chose to go down in value (assuming that my weight will reduce the overall circumference (as will treadwear, reductions in PSI, etc.) and used the nearest correlated value to find one of the 15 options that were pre-loaded into my CPU.  Figure it is not an exact science, but who cares? The relative values (ride to ride, month-to-month) of actual use are more predictive of what the step counter (or CPU in this case) measure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21347" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T00:31:38.170" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T00:31:38.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33043" CreationDate="2015-08-30T00:00:49.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess these take a metric Allen wrench, a.k.a. L-wrench, so if you used an English-sized one you can bork the hex, making it difficult to turn. The sticker in your second photo references M5, M6, etc., which are common abbreviations for metric hex-headed screws. Even if you carelessly use the correct metric wrench, you can still make a mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also guess it may not be easy to find a replacement for this hex-head screw very easily, because of the application. Assuming that is true, I'd suggest that you consider looking for a bicycle store or bicycle co-op in your area that might be able to help. At a store you'll have to pay, and at the co-op, you should pay, but at the very least they should be able to help without making the problem worse. In other words, you might have just one chance to salvage the existing left-hand screw, and someone with more experience working on bicycles would certainly have a higher probability of success than you would, using advice you got from an Internet site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on working on it yourself, you can try cutting a slot in the left-hand screw with a Dremel or equivalent, which would permit a large flat-bladed screwdriver to get a purchase, but it probably won't end up looking very nice. Normally I wouldn't deploy that method on a screw I was planning to use again, but you may not care. Alternatively, &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/K34RS6M11uw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on Youtube you can find methods for removal which are basically guaranteed to destroy the screw&lt;/a&gt;, meaning you would need a new one, but these methods are basically tried and true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very best of luck...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T00:00:49.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33043" CreationDate="2015-08-30T00:16:06.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you find that it can't be fixed, then try to go with a solid stem that's already at the correct angle. I had an adjustable one before and after adjusting it, I could never get it to be tightened properly and it would always wobble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bike co-op or bike dump is a good place to look for parts like this as solid stems don't usually wear out and many of them are salvaged from old bikes that may no longer be usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I think of it, I'm pretty sure the nut was rounded off similar to yours after many tries to remove the wobble. The adjustable  ones are usually low quality because they are heavier than solid stems, and people who buy more expensive bikes don't mind spending a few extra dollars to get a good fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T00:16:06.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33043" CreationDate="2015-08-30T00:38:55.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is likely that what you've got is a hex (Allen) head nut &amp;amp; bolt, similar to this seat post binder bolt. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tt8w8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tt8w8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Allen (hex) head nut/bolt set for seatpost.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;If you are lucky you may be able to work it free by loosening the undamaged side. To do that you will need to find way to keep the other side from moving. This could be easy or a real pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, try to get some lubricant to the threads. Work from the undamaged side, as friction on the damaged side is your friend. You may have the best luck trickling some down between the fixed and moving halves of the stem (rather than around the fasteners).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then try some of these techniques:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the undamaged fastener (it could work, no sense in not trying the easy one first).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap gently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold the damaged side with anything you can get to hold in it a bit – the right sized wrench is an obvious thing to try, also try the next largest Imperial sized wrench, or a Torx, or a Robertson (square) driver – anything you've get lying around that might fit is worth trying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if the tool you're using on the damaged side won't hold the fastener against turning pressure may help since it will increase the friction against the stem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Experiment with gradual and sudden application of torque on the good side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have access to a grinder, taper down a slightly oversized hex driver just a bit (you want the nose to fit in and then start to bite) keeping the edges as sharp as you can, support the stem and drive it in with a hammer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have access to a reversible drill or a milling machine a left hand mill will apply torque in the correct direction as it tries to cut into the damaged fastener. In a comment @Criggle mentions an &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRGcuGK-POs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ez-Out&lt;/a&gt;, I've never used one in such a shallow hole, but they would also be worth trying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T07:19:31.470" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T07:19:31.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33039" CreationDate="2015-08-30T00:49:08.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Daniel says in comments, 650c has a 571mm bead seat diameter (which is basically the rim diameter). Modern 26&quot; wheels are 559mm BSD, so it's a chance you could find a suitable wheel in that size and replace your rear brake cailper with long reach ones. That would, however, cost £50 on top of the new wheel and leave you with a bike that's quite odd to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at online shops in Europe £150-£200 does seem like a reasonable price for a new-build wheel. I've used Starbike before, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starbike.com/en/mavic-open-pro/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;they stock one 650c rim&lt;/a&gt; for €42, a cheap hub for €40 plus spokes and another €55 to build the wheel... you're looking at £150 at least. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eBay has a couple of 650c wheels for around £100, which is likely to be year cheapest option for a new wheel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual cheap option is a second hand wheel, or a second hand bike. It's probably cheaper to buy a second hand bike, and this time get one with 700c wheels. The small frame bikes might look nicer with smaller wheels, but as you've found it is not worth the hassle when anything happens to the small wheels. I've seen skinny tyre touring bikes with 559 wheels, but I don't recall seeing a road bike or hybrid built like that. They might exist, I just haven't seen them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've helped smaller riders a number of times over the years and in my experience there are really only three wheel sizes that work: 406 (20&quot;), 559 (26&quot;) and 622 (27&quot;). Anything else will make tyres somewhat harder to find (you will end up buying online because your LBS won't stock more than one tyre in your size, and it will never be the tyre you want), and wheels with be a giant PITA to find. 406 wheel adult bikes might look a bit odd but you can get tyres and wheels for them easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T06:33:34.480" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T06:33:34.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5795" CreationDate="2015-08-30T02:32:32.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wear the Halo &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.haloheadband.com/Visorband-p/havb.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Visorband&lt;/a&gt;. It basically looks like I'm wearing a cycling cap under my helmet but without the layer of fabric over the top of my head. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also use the Headsweat brand headbands which are effective. They make a few style, some thicker than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pull the pads of out my helmet (Giro Atmos) except for the one at the top of my skull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, if it's hot enough and the wind is at my back or I get stopped at a light I get sweat in my eyes and once it starts its hard to stop. I make sure I have something in my jersey pocket to wipe my eyes. If I use my bare fingers I make the problem worse!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for me it's one of the commercial sweatbands and either cotton or microfiber cloth accessible for when the burn takes over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of burn, keeping sunscreen and other products away from the area above the eyes helps. It's a trade off of course because this is where we need sunscreen but that stuff in the eyes can be deadly. And that's not hyperbole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T02:32:32.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33034" CreationDate="2015-08-30T02:56:12.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;$50 max. First, take some real photos of the bike. Fix the lighting and &lt;strong&gt;photo the drive side&lt;/strong&gt;. I can't say that loudly enough, NDS photos baffle me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fitbikeco has a fine reputation but that looks to be a pretty old model. (Do you know what year it is? That is obviously helpful.) Strikes against it just based on the photos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not microdrive (correct me if I'm wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cranks and bottom bracket are throwaway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame is probably hi-ten (to get $100 plus for a used bmx you're gonna need cro-mo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That front tire is some sort of bargain store replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the brake cable and straddle are sagging makes me question the maintenance history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seat is at least three generations behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't name any components which means that are all stock with no upgrades/replacements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might get $50 if you're in a small market and someone has $50 max to spend on such a bike and they don't feel like negotiating or waiting (for you to drop the price when it doesn't sell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But good luck. Clean it up, lube it up, take some good pictures, and write a solid ad. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T02:56:12.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33043" CreationDate="2015-08-30T06:47:10.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit in response to new photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think this is your problem. You've loosened the wrong bolt!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Ca0h.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Ca0h.png&quot; alt=&quot;adjustable stem annotated&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've been looking at the pivot bolt(s), which just hold the stem together. To adjust the angle you need to loosen a bolt that you may not even have noticed, the one under the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly suspect that your stem works like the one below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OD4pj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OD4pj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolt on the lower left holds the silver plate in place, and that plate has big teeth on it that lock into matching indentations in the stem. If you loosen the bolt the plate moves out letting you adjust the stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of it is not really relevant any more, but I'll leave it in anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of those stems have the &quot;bolt&quot; on one side of the stem fixed. Like the seatpost bolt in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/users/19416/dlu&quot;&gt;dlu's&lt;/a&gt; answer, you push it in and it locks in place. The seatpost one has a little tab, the step ones usually have a hex part under the head of the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo below shows a similar stem, only this one has a replaceable bolt where yours seems to have the bolt and cap and one piece ... the stripped piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cHiem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cHiem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;adjustable stem taken apart&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that if the bolt is tight you can't rotate the bolt head by putting an allen key in and turning it. Only one side will turn, the other side will strip if you try. That may well be what has happened here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the idea is that that side lets you hold the stem at the right angle while doing up the bolt on the other side (making it a two hand job rather than a 3 hand one). So if you've been trying to turn the wrong one you could end up stripping it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that it doesn't really matter - that side is fixed anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that if you push the &quot;bolt from the back side&quot; part it will slide out. You will probably need to lift the handlebar side of the stem a little to release the downward pressure on the pivot. Basically push and wiggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pTSsE.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pTSsE.png&quot; alt=&quot;annotated picture of adjustable stem partly disassembled&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would do that by screwing the bolt you have in your hand back in a little, leaving a couple of millimetres gap so that when you push on the bolt head there's room for the bolt to slide into the stem a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bit of imagination, the top view looks like this. The blue is the stem, red is the fixed &quot;bolt&quot; with the stripped head, and grey is the short bolt you've been able to remove. If you push leftwards in the diagram the red bolt should slide out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sdhPI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sdhPI.png&quot; alt=&quot;sketch of adjustable stem exploded view&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, find a punch or a smaller bolt that will go into that threaded hold without damaging the threads, and use a hammer to tap the remaining &quot;bolt&quot; out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's two approaches: you want to keep the adjustable stem and ideally change the position, so you don't want to damage anything; you want to adjust it and if you can't you need a new stem, so if you damage it trying to adjust it that's no great loss. Obviously in the first case you can hammer that bolt to get it out, because either you move it or you're going to throw the stem out. But if you want to keep the stem more care is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, those adjustable stems are not great and mostly should be used to discover which fixed stem you need. So I'd be inclided to force the adjustable stem a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T23:43:00.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33024" CreationDate="2015-08-30T07:12:27.283" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What's the advantages of bigger wheel? I feel that it's more forgiving on rough road, giving that the tyre width and pressure are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage is, as you suspect, that a larger wheel does not drop as far into potholes, and generally suffers less from rough roads. That's purely geometry, as seen in this comparison of an ordinary wheel and a child's bike (1.8m high vs 500mm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UjXiQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UjXiQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;wheel size comparison&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For similar reasons the larger wheel will have a lower rolling resistance, both because the casing flexes less at the road surface and because the wheel bearings rotate more slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantages are significant, however. The larger wheel is less rigid laterally (for the same flange separation at the hub), heavier and has more wind resistance (larger frontal area). Those reasons prompted people to build small wheel bikes, but as is so often the case with good ideas, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moultonbicycles.co.uk/heritage.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UCI banned small wheels in response to Moulton's design&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as using larger wheels today, we do. Mountain bikes are increasingly using 622 wheels instead of 559 (the &quot;29er&quot; size), and it's becoming increasingly hard to find cheaper road bikes with anything other than 622 wheels (we had a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/q/33039/7044&quot;&gt;question recently&lt;/a&gt; about where to find 650c/571mm wheels). Note that I'm only talking about safety bikes here, ordinaries use larger wheels because they have their pedals locked to the drive wheel so the only way to get higher gears is with a bigger wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheel size is unlikely to increase as peoples average height does because everyone is small at some stage, and it's much easier to build a large bike with small wheels than the converse (Moulton's and  folding bikes take that to the extreme, using 406 or even smaller wheels for adult bikes). So there will always be a market for smaller bikes, and economies of scale mean it's easier to build a ridiculously large frame with small wheels rather than building your own, unique, large wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to build a bike that way, I suggest looking at unicycle parts because they have the same gearing problem as ordinary bikes, so they have rims and tyres up to about 36&quot; (ISO 787mm). &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/off-camber-off-topic/new-36-mountain-bike-wheel-size-announced-872366.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;People do build bikes&lt;/a&gt; with those wheels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpq7t.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpq7t.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as you may guess, people wanting to go fast use small wheels. Almost every open speed record is held by a bike using small wheels, and only UCI records are set with larger ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T07:12:27.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33057" CreationDate="2015-08-30T09:03:51.163" Score="2" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to build my own dirt jumper, mostly using Octane One parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.octane-one.com/cat/wheels/prod/o-o-solar-front-wheel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;, there's two versions of the wheel. An 15mm orbital and an 20mm orbital. What is the difference, and which is the most common?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21353" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T19:17:11.783" Title="What does 'orbital' mean when speaking wheels?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;tricks&gt;&lt;jumping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33056" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-30T09:13:38.087" Score="0" ViewCount="1767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having neck pains a hour or so into riding, have been told I should try raising the bar height.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried adjustable riser stems but cannot get on with them. The only other option is a Steer extender, but I have only seen Aluminium ones, and have read attaching this to a Carbon Fork would be dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone really know if this the case? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would anyone know of Steer extender in Carbon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21354" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T10:05:59.760" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T04:14:33.547" Title="Steer Extender or Carbon Road Fork" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;steerer&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33055" CreationDate="2015-08-30T09:31:19.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Orbital is the brand name of the hub. 15mm and 20mm are different axle diameters, get the one that matches your fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Most dirt jumping, DH and freeride forks use 20mm, 15mm is a newer standard used mostly for cross country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="10595" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T19:17:11.783" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T19:17:11.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23813" CreationDate="2015-08-30T16:36:32.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inside the pump that attaches to the stem is a micro bolt with a vertical line. When you attach the pump and pull the lever up to lock the pump to the stem, that little bolt turns and locks the stem to the pump. Most often I have been in such a hurry that I jam the pump to the stem and pull the lever, not locking the stem, and of course after 60 psi or so it pops off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is to make sure that vertical line on the stem of the air valve, is exactly lined up with vertical line in air pump connection. When you pull the lever up very gently you will feel it lock in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21357" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T22:21:11.933" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T22:21:11.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2015-08-30T17:13:16.527" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;stand behind your bike, the pedal always removes when it points towards the direction of your rear wheel. just like how it gets left behind as you move forward. lol just my way of remembering&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21358" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T17:13:16.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33062" CreationDate="2015-08-30T17:44:00.257" Score="1" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was fixing a flat this morning and discovered that the tube was adhering to the tire casing. The tube pulled free from the tire, with about as much force as it would take to pull off well adhered (but not &quot;baked on&quot;) masking tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I've ever encountered this before and I'm wondering if it is indicative of a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T18:01:28.343" Title="Tube adhering to tire" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33061" CreationDate="2015-08-30T18:01:28.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tubes sticking to tires are pretty normal and not a problem, especially if the tube has been in the tire for a long time. Some people put talc or whatever in a tire to avoid this, but its not necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T18:01:28.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33066" CreationDate="2015-08-30T18:48:31.417" Score="1" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eighthinch.com/14-eighthinch-splined-crankset.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EighthInch Freestyle Splined Crankset&lt;/a&gt;. These are very similar to profile bmx cranksets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I purchased a larger sprocket to use with the crankset. I've used a crank puller to remove the drive side crankarm, but couldn't figure out how to remove the sprocket. It won't just slide off the axle. It fits on the crankset with very small splines. What should I do to remove the sprocket (aka chainring)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T19:37:29.723" Title="How do you remove the sprocket from an eighthinch splined BMX style crankset?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35908" CreationDate="2015-08-30T19:22:15.533" Score="9" ViewCount="14071" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about getting a power meter for a while now. I finally decided I would get one, but now I realise that Stages only starts at the Shimano 105 level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have a Shimano RS500 Crankset ( 50 x 34 ) and I'm very pleased with it, so I don't feel a need to replace the whole crankset with a 105 5800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have no plans to upgrade anytime soon to Dura Ace or something like that (the rest of my bike has the 105 5800 set), so I don't think I should buy a higher lever crank arm from Stages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I know something about bikes, but not a lot. It seems that what I have (RS500) looks compatible with the 105 crank arm (just judging by the looks), but I would like to be certain before I spend this amount of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My set: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikester.be/398351.html&quot;&gt;http://www.bikester.be/398351.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Stages I would like to get: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powermetershop.de/en/stages-power-meter-shimano-105-5800&quot;&gt;http://www.powermetershop.de/en/stages-power-meter-shimano-105-5800&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind regards and thanks in advance,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21362" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T22:18:10.517" Title="Combining Shimano RS500 crankset with Stages Shimano 105 5800" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33063" CreationDate="2015-08-30T19:24:30.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tap tap tap tap tap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then tap tap some more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is what I am thinking of you either tap the inside of the chainring from the non drive side. Or you tap the spindle from the drive side which should push the spindle through the chainring and bottom bracket. Or a little of both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tap tap with a wood block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Greasing before install goes a long way to make these things easy. They are made to be tight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could improvise a automotive gear puller but the hammer should work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastEditorUserId="19730" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T19:37:29.723" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T19:37:29.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33076" CreationDate="2015-08-30T19:25:18.700" Score="13" ViewCount="12701" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once again, I spent some quality time debugging a slow leak and found out it was a loose valve core. I tightened it with pliers, but it raises the question, is there a situation where it is useful to be able to remove the valve core? Also, have replacement valve cores been available at some point, and do the cores have a standard thread or is it manufacturer-specific?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2020-07-06T18:19:08.897" Title="What are the benefits of removable presta valve cores?" Tags="&lt;presta&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33069" CreationDate="2015-08-30T19:28:47.857" Score="1" ViewCount="1864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this 2002 Esperia which, and I need to change the tires cause I am getting back to it. The tire dimensions appear to be 25 x 1.90, 50-559. I read a bit about these new and old dimensions specifications, but I cannot find 25&quot; (or col, I am not sure whether it's inch or col) in the online stores, but I can find 24&quot; and 26&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice? Will all (or none?) 26&quot; fit my rim or what? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional question - I plan to ride on roads. Do I get slick tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21361" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T21:30:52.820" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T21:30:52.820" Title="Will the 26&quot; tyre fit my 25&quot; rim bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33068" CreationDate="2015-08-30T19:38:26.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The significant numbers are the &quot;50-559&quot; which translate to 26&quot; x 1.90&quot; – my best guess is that what you're seeing is a molding problem that causes the '6' to look like a '5'. The 50-559 is the ISO size of the tire. The first number is the width (50 mm) and the second is the &quot;bead seat diameter&quot; (559 mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beware of 26&quot; tires – there are two sizes that are called 26&quot; and they are not compatible. The easiest ways to tell them apart are by the width where you will see either a decimal width, say 1.50&quot;, or a fractional width, say 1 1/2&quot;. The other method is to compare the ISO size which would be something like 37-559 for a 26 x 1.5 inch tire or 37-590 for a 26 x 1 1/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For riding on roads slick tires are nice, they give you the largest contact area for a given tire size. You need to balance that against durability and availability. Tires like the Schwalbe Marathon are built for durability, but aren't really slicks (at least not in the sense of a tire like the Kojak). Do look for a tire with a &quot;slick&quot; strip down the middle which is where you'll be riding most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T19:41:39.993" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T19:41:39.993" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33067" CreationDate="2015-08-30T19:53:03.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the big benefit of a removable core is that it makes it possible to add &quot;self-patching slime&quot; to the tube. With a core in place the slime would likely foul the valve and make it inoperable. Otherwise, I think the removability is more an artifact of the manufacturing process – and as you've noted, not necessarily a feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T19:53:03.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33067" CreationDate="2015-08-30T20:08:31.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Serviceable:     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can get clogged with debris and can go bad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install Slime&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pull the core and save it when I throw away flats. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a new tube tighten it down before you install and if it does come loose I use just a tiny drop of Loctite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T20:08:31.153" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-30T20:29:07.070" Score="5" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been thinking of getting back into cycling after a long hiatus and need to buy a bike. Is it better to get a cheap bike now and build up strength + get a feel for what I want in the future &lt;em&gt;OR&lt;/em&gt; take a bit more time to save for an entry level good bike (I have my eye on a Specialized Crossroads)? My goal is to commute about 9.5 miles over paved but hilly terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21363" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T23:20:44.577" Title="Buying cheap now or saving for later?" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;beginner&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33075" CreationDate="2015-08-30T20:53:07.400" Score="4" ViewCount="3547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was repairing a flat on my rear tire today and noticed that the tire has started developing a flat area on the tread (see the photo below, it is the one on the right). The tire is a Continental Ultra Sport. Comparing the rear with the front there is an obvious band about 10-12 mm wide around the circumference of the tire where it contacts the road. The front tire still has a more tubular shape (little or no flat band).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to understand what this is telling me about the bike (significantly more load on rear tire?) and how I ride it and also to understand better when the tire needs replacement. For the latter question I'm primarily concerned with the reliability of the bike – a lot of my riding is for transportation and I'd like to minimize flats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iG62E.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iG62E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Comparison of tires, one on right showing flat area across tread.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T04:07:24.593" Title="When to replace a tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;preventative-maintenance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33072" CreationDate="2015-08-30T21:02:15.540" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get something now. Winter is coming…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously though, if you don't have a good feel for what you want in a bike, buying something used that seems close will get you on the road and start you developing the experience you need to decide what you really want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are so many variables of fit and gearing that it will be hard to get it right the first time (at least that's been my experience, both with my own bikes and with helping friends and family pick bikes). Add to that commuting and getting back in shape and I think you'd be way better off buying whatever seems best now on craigslist and using it to help you sort out what you really want. A few months into it you'll be in better shape and have some real life experience to guide you in picking your next bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally there are things you may not have thought of that can make or break a commute – decent lights, riding clothes, a way to carry your gear – that will all add to the cost. Better to spend as little as necessary and have money on hand to add to your kit as you learn what you need to enjoy commuting on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wait! There's one more thing… If you buy a relatively decent used bike the value won't change too much over the next 6 months or a year – especially if you take good care of it. So if you decide it isn't the right bike you can get a good portion of what you paid back when you sell it. This will be less true if you get a new bike and then decide to either sell it or start upgrading components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T23:20:44.577" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T23:20:44.577" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33073" CreationDate="2015-08-30T23:50:07.210" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is time to change that tire!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your current front tire looks to be in very good shape so when you purchase a new tire you should put it on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/2586/6007&quot;&gt;front wheel&lt;/a&gt; and then move the old front tire onto the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continental road tires have helpful wear indicator dots on them that will show you when the tread of the tire has reached its recommended replacement point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aa19Z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aa19Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Continental Tire wear indicator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be two of these indicators on the tire, one on each side of the tire's center line. Note, they are not always quite this close together. Many other brands will also have such some type of indicator marks on them, especially road tires and other tires with no to light thread patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other tires there are some general rules you can follow on when to replace a tire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You start experiencing a sudden increase in the number of flats received in a tire and there are not good explanations for the flats. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tire has worn down to the point the casing has started showing through the tire. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On bikes where your tires have noticeable tread pattern (mountain bike, cyclocross tires etc.) and the tread pattern has worn down. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a long, wide flat spot along the centerline of the tire, such as in your photo. At this point you may also notice your speed has dropped of slightly and that cornering may have gotten a little squirrelly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tire has cracked rubber, either due to the age of the tire or mistreatment such as improper storage or consistently riding on the tire while it was under inflated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will try to give out general milage estimates of how long a tire should last but these tend to be pretty useless as your tire's longevity depends on the type of tire, your riding style, your riding conditions etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is typical for rear tires to wear more quickly then the front tire. I have always attributed this mainly to the fact all your starting force is applied to the rear wheel hence any wear due to friction while starting and accelerating is experience on the rear tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://physics.stackexchange.com/a/143915&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; to the question 'why does my back tyre wear so much more quickly than the front?' also postulates increased deformation of the turning rear tire  results in more wear due to the sliding of the tire that occurs during the deformation process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:40:18.040" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T23:50:07.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33067" CreationDate="2015-08-31T00:03:47.830" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned one reason is to make it easier to installed slime/sealant into a tube or tire. Typically you'll take the valve off, and use an injector to put the slime into the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tubeless tire setups, removing the valve core allows a higher volume of air to quickly get into the tire when you are first blowing it onto the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some types of valve extenders used by people with deep profile rims thread into the valve core threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason to have removable Presta valves is they tend to be somewhat fragile so being able to replace a busted valve vs. having to replace the whole tube could potentially save a little bit of money (or allot of money if we are talking about breaking the valve core on a $150 tubular tire.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The valve cores should be consistent from maker to maker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T05:11:35.493" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T05:11:35.493" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33099" CreationDate="2015-08-31T00:43:35.740" Score="2" ViewCount="1673" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gears work fine across the whole cassette on the inner ring but all of a sudden the chain has stopped engaging with the upper jockey wheel when in the big ring and three largest (easiest) sprockets of the rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jockey pulley looks out of position when this happens (almost horizontal to the lower tension pulley jockey wheel - the chain then simply isn't reaching the upper jockey wheel) and the chain makes an unholy racket with the drive train eventually seizing up entirely until I shift into smaller (harder) sprockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seemed to occur straight after I removed then replaced the rear wheel, catching it a little on the brake pads as I did, which resulted in a bit of a clunky removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this likely to be the result of a bent, misaligned rear derailleur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20840" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T19:42:52.867" Title="Jockey pulley (upper jockey wheel) suddenly not engaging with the chain when in the three largest (easiest) cogs on the big ring only" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-31T01:25:39.237" Score="2" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mini U-lock from OnGuard.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The lock is not attached to the bike, so that's not a factor is this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see the locking mechanism jutting out partially into the key hole, which is preventing the key from being fully inserted into the key hole--it only can go about 1/2 in.  How can I get the mechanism to go back in to place so that my key may be fully inserted? Or is it time to finally break down and get a whole new lock? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21366" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T19:54:54.893" Title="OnGuard U-Lock key mechanism partially activated" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33111" CreationDate="2015-08-31T03:33:01.690" Score="2" ViewCount="8395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently converted my mountain bike from a 2x10 to a 1x10.  I have a Shimano XT Hollowtech ii crankset and I like it a lot, but its traditionally a 2 speed crankset.  When I'm in my 1st gear on the rear, there is some cross chaining going on and no matter how well I adjust my rear derailleur, if I back pedal a little bit, such as to get my pedals in a good position to get on the bike and take off, the chain will drop into the 2nd gear cog. To remedy this, I have found two potential solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy a new 1x10 speed crankset such as the Shimano Zee. This obviously is a more expensive option.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get some longer chain ring bolts and some chain ring spacers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is will option #2 be sufficient for mountain biking?  I wasn't sure if adding spacers may somehow cause some sort of vulnerability in the crankset by possibly not allowing as much force or tension on the pedals? Or am I delusional and it does nothing to cause any additional weakness or vulnerability to the crankset?  If spacers are completely safe for my application, this would be the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21352" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T04:19:47.517" Title="Are chain ring spacers a good solution to adjust chain line?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9078" CreationDate="2015-08-31T03:52:29.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that this power drop issue is most likely the result pelvis and spinal alignment than other factors suggested.  There are two potential causes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pelvic Tilt and Spinal Alignment&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility (as suggested by ZenBike in the OP comments) is how your pelvic tilt affects your spinal alignment. Without seeing you it is hard to know, but I suspect the higher position may also be aligning your spine better. Your pelvis should be rolled forward (like a pitcher pouring water), which will help align the spine. A good cycling posture requires good flexibility in your hamstrings and glutei muscles.  If you lack this you may round your back to get into a particular position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your back is too rounded you can loose power because you start using stabilizer muscles (e.g., erector muscles) in your back to stabilize your pedal stroke.  If the stabilizing force is running tangental rather than through your spine, you will continually have spinal flexion on each pedal stroke.  This can compromise your ability to stabilize your spine for torque production at the pedals and can limit breathing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this type of alignment issue is not solved it can result in overuse of the erector muscles, which can also affect your posture, rib alignment and eventually breathing patterns (as I have personally experienced).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(see page 56 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.ca/Bike-Fit-Optimise-performance-avoidance/dp/1408190303&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Fit&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Restricted blood flow&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cyclists can be subject to certain vascular issues in and around the hips and pelvis, which mainly have to do with the iliac arteries. Some cyclists can experience damage to these arteries that affect blood flow during &lt;strong&gt;high intensity&lt;/strong&gt; exercises and can result in obstruction of blood flow to the affected leg(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.ca/Bike-Fit-Optimise-performance-avoidance/dp/1408190303&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bike Fit&lt;/a&gt; (p220)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The lack of blood flow causes pain, burning and/or weakness during cycling and is often noticed as an unexplained drop in power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the handlebar height may be opening up your pelvis/hips enough that blood flow is no longer obstructed, resulting in a higher power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T04:15:44.793" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T04:15:44.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33073" CreationDate="2015-08-31T04:34:19.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As tires accumulate more miles, they become more prone to puncture. It can be difficult to tell just how much rubber is left. Technically, you can use the tire until the cord shows. However, the rubber could split and the cord will push through. At this point, you'll be lucky to limp to your destination. To insure reliability, replace the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11419" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T04:34:19.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33077" CreationDate="2015-08-31T05:23:09.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would help if you could post a photograph, but what I'm picturing from your description is that when you shift onto any of the three largest cogs in the back while you're on the large chainring the derailleur cage is pulled almost horizontal and the jockey wheel disengaged from the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, this sounds like your chain is too short. Since chains don't magically shrink what I think happened was that when you put the wheel back on the bike you pulled it further back in the dropouts than its original position and now the chain has farther to go. So, I think all you would need to do is to move the wheel forward in the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this assumes that you have horizontal dropouts, if you have vertical dropouts I'm completely wrong…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T05:23:09.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33077" CreationDate="2015-08-31T05:53:19.717" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As previously stated, a picture or two would help answer this question accurately. Even without a picture, some information is missing. What kind of cassette is it, and how many front chain rings do you have? Because if you have 3 cogs on the front, (depending how many gears you have on your cassette, for this answer I'll assume you have at least 9), then running any of your large cogs on the rear cassette with your large chainring on the front (cross chaining) puts considerable stress on your drive train and all of its components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without all of the information, I can only speculate what I believe your problem is. Listed is a picture explaining it. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pnjmL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pnjmL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case, and especially if you ride in this manner often, your rear mech might be permanently damaged. I would recommend taking it to your LBS to see if they can help you out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T05:53:19.717" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-31T06:11:36.657" Score="2" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to build a new wheel, using a Velocity Synergy OC (asymmetric) rim. When I calculate spoke lengths using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://leonard.io/edd/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Edd spoke length calculator&lt;/a&gt; I get these lengths:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drive Side:&lt;/strong&gt; 293.9 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Non-drive Side:&lt;/strong&gt; 294.7 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the drive side seems easy, I'll use a 294 mm spoke. But what about the non-drive side, would it be better to round up to 296 mm or would 294 mm work? How do you decide when it is better to be a bit long or short?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T16:20:10.450" Title="Selecting spoke lengths" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33088" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-31T06:29:17.463" Score="4" ViewCount="3675" Body="&lt;p&gt;The typical touring bike with drop bars and bar end shifters shoots the shift cable out the bar tape, right under the curve like so:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bd144.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bd144.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is like this. It would be &lt;em&gt;cleaner&lt;/em&gt; to run those cables all the way along the bars under the tape and have them come out alongside the brake cables. What's the problem with doing it like that? Too many curves in the cable makes too much cable drag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point I'll re-cable everything - what would be the downside of running the shifter cables all the way to the middle of the bars under the tape to where STI shifter cables emerge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(FWIW the way the cables come out as it is now, dealing with those cables when riding is a minor issue. But it's still an issue - there are times when you must open your hand to move it from here to there on the handlebars. Possibly the bigger issue to me is handling the bike when not riding, locking it up, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T15:09:24.973" Title="bar end shifters on drop bars - why not run the cables all the way to the stem?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;&lt;cable-routing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33088" CreationDate="2015-08-31T06:39:38.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you said, the first issue with routing the cables that way would probably be the amount of friction placed on the cable due to the angles of the routing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that if you were to route the cables that way, they might become too short and could inhibit the turning capacity of the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T06:39:38.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15209" CreationDate="2015-08-31T06:46:23.250" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had my HTC One (M8) mounted to my handlebars and after only ONE RIDE the camera broke.  The focus element of the camera was a moving part that just couldn't stand up to the shock.  The phone still worked fine, but phones w/o cameras suck so I had to get a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21370" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T07:31:08.367" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T07:31:08.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-31T07:09:32.507" Score="5" ViewCount="4220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ride now with pretty decent comfort, I have no real back/neck/shoulder pain. As I ride now I feel decent, but I feel as though I might be in too much of an upright position on the bike to get the best performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKpyA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aKpyA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been considering lowering my handlebars in hopes that it might tweak my position a little and help give me a little extra power on the pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first was going to try moving a spacer or two,(5cm) to see if that might help.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yypab.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yypab.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I considered flipping my stem, but the angle at which my stem sits might be a little to extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wZXFQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wZXFQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I'm just wondering if adjusting my handlebars would help me performance-wise or if it would really just be a waste of time/effort? If it would help, which way should I go about adjusting it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T18:08:47.433" Title="Would Lowering my Handlebars Help my Performance?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;adjustment&gt;&lt;performance&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33091" CreationDate="2015-08-31T07:40:54.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can lower the bar first by flipping the stem. Judging from the angle of your stem it will lower the bar by at least 5-7cm (2-3 inches). Which is already a good start&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step would be to migrate the 2 spacers from below the stem to the top. With two spacers on top it might look a bit awkward but there is no technical argument against doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far you've changed nothing on the bike and you can revert to the previous setting at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Safety advice&lt;/strong&gt;: Working on bar and stem can lead to serious injury if not done properly, so make sure to tighten any screw at the correct torque and to re-adjust the headset correctly. There are plenty of videos on YouTube, the Park Tool site and advice on Sheldon Brown's page how this is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T07:40:54.713" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33096" CreationDate="2015-08-31T10:15:10.300" Score="8" ViewCount="1159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to ride with strava, however as a teenager I receive very little to no money regularly and I do not have a smart phone. I would like a device that tracks my ride via gps and exports a gpx file so I may upload it to strava. It must cost less than $100 AUD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21372" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T08:14:05.620" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T01:27:37.910" Title="Are there any sub $100 gps devices that can export a gpx file" Tags="&lt;frugal&gt;&lt;gps&gt;&lt;strava&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33093" CreationDate="2015-08-31T11:03:44.253" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of an actual GPS device, I would recommend buying a used smart phone, (The Strava app itself only works on either iPhones or Androids). A &quot;Nothing Special&quot; used smart phone you can usually find for maybe 40 bucks, depending on the model and brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Download the app and just take the phone with you wherever you ride. It's not a fancy system, but it works. This is the method I use now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T11:03:44.253" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33098" CreationDate="2015-08-31T11:27:21.723" Score="6" ViewCount="8345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano 105 10-speed cassette on my road bike, with sprockets 11-12-13-14-15-17-...-28 (I don't know by heart what comes between 17 and 28). I'd like to remove the 11, and put a 16 between the 15 and the 17 (because I dislike the gap between 15 and 17, and I don't use the 11 very much). I can find the sprocket: this one is for Ultegra, but I suppose it should work for my 105 too (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rosebikes.nl/artikel/shimano-ultegra-cs-6600-10-speed-tandwiel-met-16-tanden/aid:119171&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rosebikes.nl/artikel/shimano-ultegra-cs-6600-10-speed-tandwiel-met-16-tanden/aid:119171&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just take 11-15 off, put 16 on, then put 12-15 back on? Or is there something else I need to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively I'm willing to buy another cassette instead, but I don't want to give up the 28. Are there compatible 10-speed cassettes available with 12-13-14-15-16-17-...-28 (or possibly even 29 or 30)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19688" LastEditorUserId="19688" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T13:52:28.753" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T14:02:10.707" Title="Add/remove sprockets on cassette to customize gear ratios" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33093" CreationDate="2015-08-31T13:04:07.057" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a little more than 100$, but you could have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2015/06/garmin-edge-20-25.html&quot;&gt;Garmin Edge 20&lt;/a&gt; for 130$. Maybe wait a little for a special or something*. According to the post it's a good little computer and I personnaly enjoy using their Edge lineup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(* the website has a 10% anything coupon with their partner, might be worth a look, that would bring the Edge 20 to 117$, might not work for everything thought)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T13:04:07.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33095" CreationDate="2015-08-31T13:21:48.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory yes. In practice there are a couple of issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finding the cog. One, expensive, way to get one is to buy a cassette with the size you want and take it apart to get your cog – assuming that you can find one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finding the cog with the ramps to go to its partners on either side. This is a much smaller issue, the steps are as small as they get and long before Hyperglide there was shifting…&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I happened to stumble on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fouriers-bike.com/en/pro.php?m=d&amp;amp;pid=346&amp;amp;cid=51&amp;amp;f=50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this 16-tooth cog&lt;/a&gt; the other day. The overall package, a 40- or 42-tooth replacement low and a 16-tooth to clean up the steps in between, but perhaps they sell the 16-tooth by itself as a spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T13:21:48.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33095" CreationDate="2015-08-31T13:51:28.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you want sram cassette&lt;/strong&gt; (which should be compatible):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sram PG1050 and PG1070 come in a 12-28 configuration matching what you need&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12-13-14-15-16-17-19-22-25-28&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-pg-1050-cassette&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-pg-1050-cassette&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-pg-1070-cassette&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-pg-1070-cassette&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you want shimano&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Buy two Shimano 105 ten speed cassettes (well, you already have one, so you're half way there). The 12-25 version has a 16t cog and the 11-28 has the other cogs you will need. Might be able to find a used cassette that has the cog you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the options for Shimano 105 CS-5700 series&lt;br&gt;&#xA;11-25 = 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25&lt;br&gt;&#xA;11-28 = 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12-25 = 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12-27 = 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See Shimano 105 cassette details:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/road/drivetrain/cassettes0/cs-5700.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/road/drivetrain/cassettes0/cs-5700.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano Tiagra Range has a 12-30 cassete, but it also does not have a 16t cog.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T14:02:10.707" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T14:02:10.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33077" CreationDate="2015-08-31T14:10:51.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Man handling the rear derailleur I discovered the jockey wheels were indeed in the wrong position as a result of the rear mechs pivot point having seized up.  I can push it into the correct position and the chain engages the jockey wheel and runs normally but the mech isn't moving freely by itself.  This means it isn't extending fully to run in the big ring - larger cog gear combinations.  Given the difficulty in servicing the internals of the rear mech I'm planning to replace the whole unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an interim measure in the short term I've used a generous dose of penetrating oil around the pivot and it's freed things up enough to get things working for now.  I wouldn't give it too long before a new mech is needed though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20840" LastEditorUserId="20840" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T19:42:52.867" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T19:42:52.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33079" CreationDate="2015-08-31T15:51:56.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can rotate the key back and forth while you insert it, That should help realign the cylinders. This actually a common problem and doesn't mean that the lock is broken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it to your bike shop if you continue to have problems. They are experts at the jiggle-dance sometimes necessary to get the key in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T15:51:56.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-31T17:58:37.143" Score="5" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;For long planned cycles, I'm able to plan to feed myself. But sometimes in the evenings I leave work and just decide to set out for an extra half an hour's cycling about for fun - then four hours later I'm up a hill in a strange tiny village wishing I had something to eat. But this situation only comes up once every few weeks. I've been trying to think of good ideas for 'emergency snacks' that I can just put in my cycling bag and forget about for weeks until I need them;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It should survive being knocked about a bit and sometimes having heavy stuff dumped on top of it (so not biscuits or bananas).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It shouldn't expire for at least a month or two.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally it wouldn't add too much weight or take up too much space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best idea so far is a couple of those half-size tins of fruit (like peach slices) with ring-pull tops and a tea spoon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21378" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T12:00:26.110" Title="Food to keep in pannier long-term until it's needed?" Tags="&lt;nutrition&gt;" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33101" CreationDate="2015-08-31T19:03:33.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really enjoy gummy type food (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.powerbar.ca/Products/gel-blasts-energy-chews-raspberry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PowerBar Gel Blast&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.clifbar.com/products/clif-shot/shot-bloks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cliff Blocks&lt;/a&gt;). They have multiple flavors and taste OK. It won't replace a full meal, but it does keep me fueled up for longer rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These gummies usually have an expiry of +1 year and can take the sun and heat without melting. Some of my packets did a 6h ride in full sun in my back pocket without melting and still being eatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T19:03:33.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33101" CreationDate="2015-08-31T19:30:21.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clif Bars do a good job for this. I keep some in my bag for exactly that purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T19:30:21.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33101" CreationDate="2015-08-31T19:38:12.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trail mix. But make sure it has few nuts and more fruits/sugar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T19:38:12.570" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33106" CreationDate="2015-08-31T19:46:24.087" Score="9" ViewCount="7400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the market for a new cassette for my road bike and I frequently see cassettes listed as mountain bike or road bike. Since they're usually interchangeable and can be used on either type of bike, what makes manufacturers designate them as one type or the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3497" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T19:59:35.580" Title="What makes a cassette mountain bike vs. road bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33105" CreationDate="2015-08-31T19:59:35.580" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road typically has a smaller range.  A road bike will typically come with a short cage derailleur.  Where a mountain will typically come with a medium or long cage derailleur.   Yes the mount on the freehub is compatible.  It is about the range capacity of the derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T19:59:35.580" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33101" CreationDate="2015-08-31T20:06:26.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do what the cowboys did-  carry &lt;strong&gt;beef jerky&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6119" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T20:06:26.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33101" CreationDate="2015-08-31T21:45:40.227" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to carry PowerBars, because they taste sufficiently foul that I'm never tempted to eat them just because I'm bored or peckish. Which means they're there when I really need them. The expiry date printed on them seems to be imaginary, I've eaten them when the foil wrapper is intact but so worn that it's hard to make out what flavour the bar is supposed to be. One subtle advantage is that they're flexible, so you can wedge them into a corner of a bag and they'll conform to the space available. I often shove one in with the rain cover on my backpack and camera bag, so if you carry a rain jacket you could probably put one in that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience carrying sugar is a waste of time - it just causes insulin surges and makes the whole experience less pleasant. I go from hungry to hyper to hypo to wondering what I just did to myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shopping hint&lt;/strong&gt;: In response to Daniel R Hicks' comment above, if I'm shopping at a generic chain store that seems to have what I want, I'll buy one each of the more likely options and eat them over the next few days. Or open them, taste them, and bin them if they're not at all what I want. When I find one I like I'll buy 10 or more of them, ignoring the shelf life, and just eat one a ear or so later to make sure they're still edible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're manufactured as effectively sterile bar, and they're so energy-dense that anything growing in there will have a hard time unless the package opens and water gets in. Honey and jam work exactly this way - the high sugar content and low water content means anything that tries to grow has the water stripped out of it and it dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why I still have a stock of powerbars that are probably 10 years old, and I'm not sure how many I have because when I bought a bunch ten years ago I stashed them all through my camping/hiking/touring gear and they still turn up from time to time. It's easy to find an inconspicuous place to carry something, but that also makes it easy to forget when unpacking :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T01:32:03.517" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T01:32:03.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33073" CreationDate="2015-09-01T00:59:37.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - replace the rear if you can afford to.  Otherwise be aware that punctures will increase, so ride accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the wear issues are partially because the rear carries more of the load than the front, and also perhaps you're braking on the back too much.  If you brake equally, the rear wheel looses &quot;downforce&quot; and is more likely to lock and skid a bit.  Most braking comes from the front, and the rear is mostly a separate backup system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my heavy ebike I managed to wear through the tyre and ended up with a &quot;blister&quot; where the tube poked out the hole.  Most of this was braking hard and small skids eating up the rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remeber that tyres are consumables, just like brake blocks or chains.   You've almost consumed this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T00:59:37.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33073" CreationDate="2015-09-01T04:07:24.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously there is a lot more wear on the back tire than the front -- you're providing power through the back wheel and your weight is mostly over the back tire. If you brake a lot with the rear brake, you'll also increase your tire wear versus using the front brake (you can brake more efficiently with the front brake; this is why you see bigger brakes in the front for cars as well, even on a rear engine rear wheel drive car like a Porsche 911). Skid stops also can wear out the tire more. You can easily wear out a few back tires for each front tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drive a front wheel drive front engined car, you'll notice a similar thing -- your front tires will wear out quicker than the rears (hence why you do tire rotation). That being said, don't rotate your tires on a bicycle -- you need a better tire in the front since if something happens to the back tire, you can normally control it but recovering from anything happening in the front is much harder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general rule for when to replace a tire is when you start getting flats, or the tire's structure is not good anymore (cut tire, fabric showing or damaged, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T04:07:24.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33082" CreationDate="2015-09-01T04:19:47.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes spacers are fine for this. It sounds like you want to move a few millimeters - 2 or 3 millimeters is fine and the bolts can handle it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word of caution about bottom bracket spindle: make sure that your crank is clearing the chain stay. Inspect this &lt;em&gt;under load&lt;/em&gt;. You might look and think you have enough room for the shorter BB but on your first ride you can put a few nice gouges in your chain stay when you put the hammer down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T04:19:47.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33101" CreationDate="2015-09-01T12:55:37.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tinned fruit is not really very high energy density, or very satisfying.  Amongst the tinned stuff, creamed rice might be a good one?  There's some good chunky soups, and pre-flavoured beans around too, and while they're nicer hot, they're quite edible cold if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others have pointed out various bars.  Even when they look like muesli, they're commonly 30% sugar, which is not bad for snacking while cycling, but not great if you're talking about an emergency evening meal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look for it, some supermarkets have pumpernickel loaves, which are a very high density bread.  It's commonly a european export product, so it's usually sterile-packaged such that if it's not too hot it'll last for months if the packaging isn't punctured.  Probably better in a plastic container or something though, to stop it being knocked around.  I like it with peanut butter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21387" LastEditorUserId="21387" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T11:22:54.627" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T11:22:54.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33087" CreationDate="2015-09-01T13:02:19.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would round to 294, since that would keep difference from theoretical less than 1 mm, and as bonus left and right would be of same length which means you have to stock only one size for replacements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T13:02:19.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33101" CreationDate="2015-09-01T14:23:25.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually buy a box of meal replacement bars and distribute them through my bags. They seem to have a decent mix of sugar, complex carbs, and protein. Often times I'll eat half one day and finish it the next day. I've got some that are probably past the date by a few months, but they always seem to taste fine. They don't always do the best in the sun though unless you get the cookie dough, or peanut butter something or other. Those are pretty much a block of mealy paste. Those ones don't taste super awesome, so they might last in your bag a bit longer ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21388" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T14:23:25.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33087" CreationDate="2015-09-01T16:20:10.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would round up to 296 and buy only that size.  Spokes that are too long can be easily trimmed and rethreaded by any decent shop (they make a machine to do just that).  However, a spoke that is too short is utterly useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T16:20:10.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-01T19:14:31.237" Score="5" ViewCount="1338" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I bought some stainless steel gear and brake cables. I have 3 packets of cables from 3 Ebay shops. How do I identify if they are genuine stainless steel cables or if I've been ripped off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a magnet - 2 packets stick to the magnet, galvanised cables also stick to magnet with similar force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use anything from my kitchen to test the cables. Something like vinegar, lemon juice, cola or even bleach. I could rub them with something abrasive and then leave the cables in salty water for a period of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21390" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T01:55:00.500" Title="How to identify galvanised and stainless cables?" Tags="&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33117" CreationDate="2015-09-01T19:31:41.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of what you are talking about to test the cables may damage them, or leave them vulnerable to premature wear.  My assumption would be that you purchased them from eBay because they were cheap.  If that's the case just use them.  If they work, they work and you've saved some money.  The time and effort you are investing to &quot;test&quot; the cables could probably be saved by just spending a bit extra next time and purchasing from a source you consider reliable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T19:31:41.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33117" CreationDate="2015-09-01T19:44:24.600" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really want to test, you can cut a small piece of cable on each and put them in bleach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stainless steel would corrode with rust forming evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Galvanised steel would mostly corrode on the cross-section of the cable (where the cut is made). The (correctly) galvanised area will likely to be white.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For your time testing, just buy a better cable from a reliable shop next time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The reaction may produce harmful gas, don't put them indoor or unventilated area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T19:54:09.750" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T19:54:09.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12707" CreationDate="2015-09-01T21:13:19.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the benefit of others, I had the same issue and it turned out to be a rear axle that wasn't tight enough. When it was greased and tightened properly the creak stopped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21392" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T21:13:19.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33117" CreationDate="2015-09-01T21:57:56.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;im not sure if the cables might be to thin for you to notice, but the easiest way todifferentiate between stainless steel and galvanized is to look and see what the metal looks like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stainless steel looks particularly shiny, and it also feels really smooth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;galvanized steel, (due to the galvanization process), looks kind of scuffed or foggy, and it does not reflect light very well. Galvanized also feels a little bit gritty, as opposed to steel which, again, is smooth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't tell by eye, try putting some pictures with your question. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T21:57:56.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33122" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-01T23:40:02.613" Score="0" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what happen to the Vista Bicycle company?  I'd like to know where to find parts, and did another company buy out Vista?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Vista Sport 27inch 10 speed bike was purchased 40 years ago.  I live in Richmond, Va. There's a bike races coming here in a couple of weeks which got me to  dig out the Vista and clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It took me a while to get back here, but I have found all the parts are SunTour parts. I have found all parts needed on EBay, except the Crankset.....I am still in need , but wonder if I can substitute the Suntour crankset set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21394" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T12:44:38.997" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T12:44:38.997" Title="Vista Sport Vintage Bicycle" Tags="&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-02T02:56:51.900" Score="1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some old dia-compe center pull brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inside the lever is the little roller pin with a slot in it for the cable and the small hole on the bottom and the larger hole on the top that the nut on the end of the cable sits in. These have suicide levers and a red metal pin sticking out of the inside of the brake handle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how do I thread the cable so that the nut is in the big (proper hole) and doesn't fall out when I put tension on it to hook it on to the caliper cable? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable is curved it has taken a set from being on there so long. I think it's too simple and I've been looking at it too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21398" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T03:18:04.963" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T03:22:37.403" Title="connecting center pull dia-compe lever cables" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33122" CreationDate="2015-09-02T03:36:33.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all likelihood the parts you need weren't made by Vista. The only things that are likely to be proprietary might be an &quot;innovative&quot; bottom bracket or perhaps the fork and headset. Most everything else would have or could have come from a third party. If you can be more specific about the parts you're looking for we can probably help – or at least commiserate…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T03:36:33.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33091" CreationDate="2015-09-02T08:14:51.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for pedalling performance, adjusting the seatpost (up and down) and the seat (back and front) is the answer. There are literature about adjusting seatpost so you can look them up on the internet; youtube also have many video demonstration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjusting handlebar height is more about efficiency. In general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the less up-right position, the better the efficiency. This helps a lot when you are riding at high speed (noticeably at speed 20 mph+ or 35 kmph+), or against the wind. However, there is always a compensation for riding aggressively: you tire out quickly&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the smaller the handle bar, the better the efficiency. The best efficiency is when the arms are shoulder length apart, just similar to the riding position on aero bar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;arms at some angle also lower your riding position and improves efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your bike looks like a hybrid, which gives out that you mostly ride in urban area. Adjusting handlebar height is thus beneficial because you are likely to hit 20 mph+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T08:14:51.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-02T08:42:13.490" Score="1" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace a Shimano Deore RD-M531 rear derailleur which has a long cage (9 speed cassette). I can replace the derailleur no problem, but my knowledge isn't great and am just not sure what to replace it with. This is an old bike and I would be happy with second hand to minimise costs. I would buy the same but none available on line. Any suggestions?&#xA;Thanks&#xA;Matt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21399" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T09:37:04.403" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T17:30:00.720" Title="Replacement MTB rear derailleur" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33132" CreationDate="2015-09-02T11:50:34.493" Score="12" ViewCount="4242" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whats a good target speed to maintain inside a velodrome for an hour? I believe Bradley Wiggins maintained an average speed of around 35 Mph for an hour, how difficult would it be to maintain half that speed for a similar amount of time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21074" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T13:52:10.767" Title="How difficult would it be to maintain 17.5 Mph for an hour?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;speed&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33091" CreationDate="2015-09-02T11:54:41.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Define performance?   Top speed, efficiency, handling?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you lower the bar you will be more inclined with  less frontal area&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unless you have some really strange air flow you will have less aerodynamic drag&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Drag = CD x Area x Velocity x Velocity&lt;br&gt;&#xA;CD is the drag coefficient and it can also change with position but it should be pretty constant&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Because of the velocity squared aerodynamic drag comes more into play at higher speeds   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you take drag out then upright is more mechanically efficient&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even racers climb up on the bars &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In almost all situation a bike handles better in a more upright position   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary on performance of lowering the bar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should have a better top speed  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It may or may not be more efficient overall&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It might be a less efficient climber &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will probably handle worse  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider what the bike was designed to do and adjust for FIT more than performance.  The bike is clearly designed to move the two spacers but I would not do more than that.  If that does not feel good (fit) then don't do it.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for speed performance then consider a second road bike with drop bars.  The bike you have now is designed for agility and comfort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T11:54:41.580" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33101" CreationDate="2015-09-02T12:00:26.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never eaten one but I've seen military &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meal,_Ready-to-Eat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MRE&lt;/a&gt;'s (meal ready to eat) for sale before now. Probably very long shelf life and designed for a soldiers backback so a pannier shouldn't be a problem. More substantial than a bar too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20577" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T12:00:26.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-02T12:29:34.613" Score="2" ViewCount="1117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm beginning to see manufactures making carbon hubs and am wondering if they have the potential to perform better than conventional metal hubs or if they are just a way to save a couple of grams of weight, possibly at the expense of performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt; Edit: &lt;/b&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These are the hubs I was originally asking about, manufactured by enve.  They have a full carbon shell and flange.  The flange is not drilled, the holes are molded as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0bM9r.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0bM9r.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JgDpt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JgDpt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastEditorUserId="19106" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T00:39:54.083" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T00:39:54.083" Title="Are carbon hubs a good idea?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33128" CreationDate="2015-09-02T13:45:07.583" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is: not that difficult. The long answer requires some explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equations of motion for a rider on a bicycle are well-understood if not always well-known. The power needed to propel a bicycle on firm flat ground (as on a velodrome) varies approximately with the cube of speed. Thus, to double your speed, you would need to increase your power output by approximately a factor of eight; riding at half-speed decreases your power output to approximately one-eighth of full-speed power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As may be obvious, Brad Wiggins was highly trained and highly optimized in both equipment and position to minimize his coefficient of rolling resistance (Crr) and aerodynamic drag area (CdA). That means even at 17.5 mph he could very possibly use less power than most cyclists would. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That all said, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9938/how-can-one-estimate-drag-for-a-bicycle/9947#9947&quot;&gt;this bicycles.stackexchange answer&lt;/a&gt; discusses the equations of motion for a cyclist, from which you could calculate the power required to ride at 17.5 mph on a velodrome using reasonable estimates of Crr and CdA. For most average-sized adults, not highly optimized for position, a reasonable estimate of CdA on a standard pursuit bike similar to but not identical to the one used by Wiggins would be around 0.275 m^2. For this example, then, one could cover 17.5 miles on the velodrome at right around 100 watts of output. In comparison, an average sized man, walking on firm flat ground, would expend roughly 75 watts. So riding a velodrome at 17.5 mph would be more difficult than walking at normal speed for an hour but not horrendously more difficult. However, because of the cubic relationship between speed and power, riding at 20 mph would require nearly a 50% increase in power over riding at 17.5 mph, and riding at 25 mph would require a trebling of power. Many non-sedentary adults can produce somewhere between 2.0 and 3.0 watts/kg for an hour, so such a 75 kg man would be able to maintain between 150 and 225 watts for an hour. As you can see, many (but not all) adults would be able to maintain 17.5 mph, but not as many would be able to maintain 20 mph, and relatively few would be able to maintain 25 mph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T13:52:10.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33131" CreationDate="2015-09-02T14:15:03.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which hubs are you thinking about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be very hard to make a carbon hub flange strong enough to withstand spoke tension, assuming you are building a wheel with conventional spokes.  Most carbon hubs I have seen use aluminum flanges, and the few which offer significant weight savings are ultralight equipment not for general use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon probably won't replace the axle, bearings, freehub, or quick release, either.  So you're talking about a few inches of tubing being carbon instead of aluminum, and you're trading the one-piece hub shell for something assembled.  The hub is subject to considerable stress from riding so it's not an area where it makes sense to compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21401" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T14:15:03.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33088" CreationDate="2015-09-02T15:09:24.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will work, but you will add considerably more housing and 2-3 more bends in the housing.  The additional bends will introduce friction which will affect shifting performance, but it should be usable if the cable and housing are good quality and you avoid damaging the cable during installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21401" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T15:09:24.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33131" CreationDate="2015-09-02T15:21:03.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a carbon brake lever perform better than an aluminum?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure a carbon hub is purely for weight and not performance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame and fork is a case of carbon also has performance benefits. Carbon has flex and damping characteristics that many people prefer over other materials. In a hub you just want rigid and strength - I think.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T15:21:03.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33131" CreationDate="2015-09-02T16:07:33.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a very large flange hub (to produce shorter spoke lengths and produce a stiffer wheel), bonding a large metal flange to a carbon hub shell is not a bad idea.  If you try doing it with a one piece design, the larger shell (coming from the larger flange) would likely make the hub heavy.  Making the shell out of carbon instead has the the potential to preserve the advantages of a large flange without the drawbacks of having an overweight heavy metal shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T16:07:33.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33127" CreationDate="2015-09-02T16:12:02.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano Deore RD-M591 is a comparable part which you can still find -- this is probably what I'd use. If you want to go a bit cheaper, Shimano Acera M360 will work too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use any 7-9 speed Shimano rear derailleur to replace another 7-9 speed Shimano rear derailleur provided it has the appropriate capacity (*) for your setup (at least big chainring - small chainring + big cassette cog - small cassette cog) and largest cog rating, since the cable pull is the same. 10 speed onwards has a few more cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) Capacities tend to be conservative -- you can usually exceed them by a bit if you don't use absurd gear combinations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T16:12:02.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33151" CreationDate="2015-09-02T17:18:02.437" Score="3" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an 80's Fuji bike and It's definitely well past time to replace the bottom bracket. The adjusting cup came off fine, but the crank side cup is super stuck. I've tried stacking lockring washers and cranking the crap out of it. I've tried any kind of penetrating oil, almost broke my park tool for removing keyed rings. That sucker is stuck. It's been driven through a couple winters and I don't recall ever being able to remove that side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas on how to get the crank side cup off? Is it just easier/cheaper to find the parts and rebuild it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OH and yes I know it's reverse threaded! :D I'll be sure to grease the crud out of the new one when I can get it in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21388" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T03:38:33.403" Title="Stuck Bottom Bracket" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9237" CreationDate="2015-09-02T17:25:44.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Add width to your profile, adding it to your bike permanently will make it easy not to forget it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride a recumbent trike as well as a recumbent bike.&#xA;The trike is a bit lower down than the bike, has a less bright frame colour and neither has a flag at the moment but it the trike has had one but at that time the friend I mostly cycled with had a flag as well, one that is more visible than mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trike always gets a wide berth of cars and the bike, both mine and that of my friend, are more often getting 'last moment adjustment' reactions of cars indicating they had not been seen early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in the Netherlands where most of my riding is on bike paths, bike lanes and low traffic roads. But I have been riding in the UK, most notably through London and the trike did get respect from cars that ignored upright bikes to the point of almost forcing them off the street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Germany they sell an item that makes a bike seem wider, a lollipop style reflector that is mounted so it is to the side of the bike, making the bike seem twice as wide.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ll8Xj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ll8Xj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;lollipop style reflector&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From images-amazon.com/images/I/71%2BuakoJZHL._SL1500&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When searching for an image for the lollipop reflector I also saw a flag to be mounted to the side of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxRe1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cxRe1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Yellow flag mounted on a rear rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;bestcyclebikes M-Wave-Safety-Flagpole-Yellow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both pictures found on the net, not sure if there is the needed permission to use them on this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastEditorUserId="18917" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T16:17:25.753" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T16:17:25.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33127" CreationDate="2015-09-02T17:30:00.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend staying far away from used derailleurs, generally by the time they are taken off a bike, they do not function as they should. (bent hanger or cage, etc...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check ebay for good deals,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/sch/Derailleurs-Rear-/177813/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;LH_ItemCondition=3&amp;amp;_dcat=177813&amp;amp;Number%2520of%2520Speeds=9%2520speed&amp;amp;_sop=15&amp;amp;_nkw=Shimano%20RD&amp;amp;rt=nc&amp;amp;LH_BIN=1&amp;amp;_trksid=p2045573.m1684&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;When I searched this you could buy one for $23.50 shipped&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21406" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T17:30:00.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-02T17:47:49.713" Score="1" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have wider feet.  I would like to find a clipless shoe that is on the wider side.  What clipless shoes offer multiple widths?  What clipless shoes are naturally wide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently just have (standard width) North-West clipless shoes.  If I leave them on the looser side, they are reasonably comfortable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other notes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looking for something as stiff as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain clipless not road clipless&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keens are my go-to hiking shoe, because of their width.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;As requested by batmat in the comments, my shoe size is 43 or 10&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastEditorUserId="134" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T20:15:52.607" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T20:15:52.607" Title="Clipless MTB Shoes for wider feet" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33142" CreationDate="2015-09-02T18:03:47.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To start, Keen makes a commuter bike sandal that is clipless, so you may look into that if you like the fit of Keens.  I know that Specialized makes wide sizes in their shoes as does Lake.  There may be others out there, but that is what I am immediately familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far what to avoid, most of the European companies (especially the Italian companies like Sidi) tend toward a fit that is aimed at a narrower foot.  Sidi, makes a Mega option that is supposed to be wide (I believe), but I haven't ever seen a pair to try and the regular Sidis fit me horribly (I also have a wide foot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T18:03:47.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7272" CreationDate="2015-09-02T19:23:31.680" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got some 15 year old new tires I've had in my garage for years. I put them on my car last week and they're fine so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21408" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T21:46:42.197" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T21:46:42.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32024" CreationDate="2015-09-02T20:16:21.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Freehub body: no play radially? laterally? Try to reproduce it when lightly apply the brake (with barrel adjuster) and hand-pedal while the bike on stand. does it still wobble?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cassette spacing: remove the cassette and see if there is any irregularities in the spacer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T20:16:21.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33152" CreationDate="2015-09-02T22:35:58.973" Score="2" ViewCount="1278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the feel of Surly's Disc Trucker, 3x10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/disc_trucker/bike_specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/disc_trucker/bike_specs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I want STI shifters, not bar-ends.  Moving to STI would seem to screw up the brake pull; duly noted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will STI shifters work with the front derailleur?  (Sora Triple)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will STI shifters work with the rear derailleur?  (XT 10-speed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guessing yes (front) and not at all (rear).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like a 9-speed XT RD would work and give me all ten in the back??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12949" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T04:28:51.247" Title="Surly Disc Trucker with STI Shifters" Tags="&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33148" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-03T00:54:48.997" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need a special rear rack for my Schwinn Ascension Hybrid bike that has disc brakes? Or will the regular Schwinn bike rack work&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21410" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T02:35:42.663" Title="Do I need a special rack for my Schwinn Ascension hybrid bike with disk brakes?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rack&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33148" CreationDate="2015-09-03T02:35:42.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing special about that bike that necessitates any special rear rack. You'll want to make sure that the bottom bolt that attaches on the disc side is not so long that it pokes the disc but that's true with any frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T02:35:42.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33146" CreationDate="2015-09-03T03:20:34.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano rear derailleurs are mostly interchangeable (except for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/dura-ace.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;older Dura Ace&lt;/a&gt;) since the 6 speed days.  With a few exceptions, you can pair any Shimano rear derailleur with any Shimano shifter.  The 9 speed XT rear derailleur will work fine with 10 speed shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit: Looks like the Dyna-Sys rear derailleur is probably not compatible, but 9 speed should be fine.  I have not used Dyna-Sys.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The left/front Shimano shifter is designed for either two chainrings or three, so you just have to pick one or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the brakes, the original Tektro RL520 levers on the Trucker are designed for linear pull, which is nice because it lets you choose from the larger selection of disc brakes designed for mountain bikes.  But you can also purchase disc brakes &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.sram.com/avid/products/bb7-road-mechanical-disc-brake&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;designed for road brake levers&lt;/a&gt;, which will work with the STI brake lever without modification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21401" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T03:20:34.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33138" CreationDate="2015-09-03T03:38:33.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 1980s Fuji should have an English bottom bracket with a left-hand threaded fixed cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few methods I have used to remove very stuck bottom brackets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the Stein Fixed Cup Wrench Clamp (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jastein.com/Html/Tools_for_Cranks.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FCC-2&lt;/a&gt;) to secure the wrench onto the fixed cup.  This will allow you to apply more leverage without the tool slipping off.  It also allows you to pound on the tool with a mallet which sometimes helps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clamp the flats of the fixed cup in a vise and turn the frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You mentioned keyed rings - if the fixed cup does not have flats on it, you could flatten the sides with a grinder and then stick it in the vise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's any chance that thread locking compound was used (probably not likely) then applying heat would help move it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21401" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T03:38:33.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33146" CreationDate="2015-09-03T04:28:51.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you get a 3 x 10 STI shifter, the front (Sora) shifter will work fine. For the rear, you're going to need to replace it with a 10 speed Shimano road rear derailleur or a 7-9 speed Shimano rear derailleur due to the change in cable pull (7-9 speed and 10 speed road use the same cable pull in Shimano. 10 speed mountain does something else). Note that the bar ends spec'd on the Disc Trucker are Microshift BS-M10, which are specifically designed for 10 speed mountain cable pull. You can use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://jtekengineering.com/products/shiftmate-straight/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;JTek Shiftmate 6&lt;/a&gt; as an alternative to putting a 7-9 speed or 10 speed Road Shimano rear derailleur, but I'd recommend against it since its one more place the cable can be damaged, and it will cost more than buying a 9 speed Deore rear derailleur (which is what I'd do to save some cash rather than buying the 9 speed XT, unless you have it laying around or can get it for very cheap). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for brakes, the Tektro RL520's are for linear pull (V-brakes / mountain disc brakes). This means that the Disc Trucker is outfitted with the Avid BB7 Mountain disc brake calipers. So, if you want to switch to STI brakes, you can either swap out the brake calipers for road brake calipers (e.g. Avid BB7 Road) or use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://problemsolversbike.com/products/travel_agents/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Travel Agent&lt;/a&gt;, which is a pulley that switches the cable pull between short and long pull brakes. These increase cable wear at the pulley so you have to check them every so often to see the cable is in good condition. Travel agents may be a bit cheaper (two of them should run about 50 USD), but I'd probably opt for the new calipers since it removes one failure point in your brake system (two brakes with rotors will probably run about 100 USD; less if you can find them without rotors). Hayes and Tektro/TRP make disc brakes with short pull (such as the Hayes Comp CX) which you can also use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T04:28:51.247" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-03T05:16:51.123" Score="2" ViewCount="1477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have purchased a Shimano 105 5800 11 Speed Cassette 11-32, 116 link chain (CN- HG600-11) and longer-caged 'GS' rear derailleur (RD-5800-GS) to replace my original 105 10 speed 5700 series mech. Can I still use my original 105 5700 shifter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21412" LastActivityDate="2020-09-23T03:06:20.640" Title="Shimano 105 5800 mech compatibilty with 5700 shifters" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33153" CreationDate="2015-09-03T05:24:46.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No -- you need to match the number of speeds on the cassette and the number of speeds of the shifter. The 11 speed shifters are &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/07/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-1011-speed-compatibility_337803&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;designed to use dyna-sys cable pull&lt;/a&gt; (which is different than the 10 speed road cable pull; its the same as 10 speed mountain) as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend picking up either {a 10 speed road or 7-9 speed Shimano rear derailleur and a 10 speed cassette} or the 11 speed Shimano road shifters. The former (e.g. a 9 speed Deore RD and a 10 speed cassette) is likely going to be &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; cheaper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T05:24:46.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-03T05:45:02.890" Score="3" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a bicycle dealer in my area selling &quot;Olympia&quot; bicycles. I haven't seen any athlete riding those bikes and I was unable to find any reviews on the internet. I know that the company is one of the oldest ones in Italy.&#xA;What I want to know is where do the Olympia bicycles stand in comparison with the other top brands like GIANT, Trek, BMC e.t.c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21414" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T09:20:33.687" Title="Information about Olympia bicycles" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33157" CreationDate="2015-09-03T07:45:50.343" Score="20" ViewCount="58925" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across the below image today and thought it a great idea for storing bikes. However I wasn't sure if literally hanging a bike by its front wheel might cause undue stress to either the wheel itself or the front forks. Has anyone else done this to no ill effect? In the image below the back wheels don't even seem to be touching the floor, which I would have thought would take some of the weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcSSc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcSSc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20577" LastEditorUserId="21411" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T11:54:13.227" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T01:12:43.587" Title="Any detriment to hanging a bike by its front wheel?" Tags="&lt;storage&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-09-08T07:34:03.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33156" CreationDate="2015-09-03T07:58:43.487" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd have to calulate the actual forces to be 100% sure but it's not going to be a problem: forces on front wheel/fork/headset while e.g. just sitting on the bike, braking or landing jumps will be (much) higher than the force applied from hanging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I do note at least two problems with this setup: first, good luck getting one of the center bikes out without touching or getting stuck in another bike. Second: from the picture it seems like you'd have to hold the bike with one hand then use the other to attach it. Ok for a roadbike, but for anything heavier that is just hard. Usually these systems have an open 'C'-shaped fixed hook into which you simply hang the bike which is much more convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9016" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T07:58:43.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33156" CreationDate="2015-09-03T08:55:34.843" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there are no problems with doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike shops frequently hang bikes in a similar way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when I lived in small house in the inner city, I hung all of the family bikes in a similar way for years, without observing any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's remarkably easy to get the bike up onto the hook or peg, when you learn how. Those in the picture don't look as easy. The rack I built used big butcher's hooks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Bike wheels are designed to carry the bike's weight plus up to 100 kg of rider. They work by the spokes being in tension, with the load distributed around the wheel. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://autobus.cyclingnews.com/tech/fix/?id=tm_1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cyclingnews Maintenance &amp;amp; repair&lt;/a&gt; article shows the tension of the spokes for various rims. The minimum spoke tension from all the wheels in the list is 51 &quot;kg force&quot; (500 N). The maximum tension described is over 175 kg. &lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;: hanging a 20 kg bike by the wheel is a non-issue, even if the load is carried by a single spoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-05T01:12:43.587" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T01:12:43.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33165" CreationDate="2015-09-03T08:57:28.530" Score="4" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I wash down my bike after a muddy race cross race or training ride I usually dry everything off and then begin lubricating the chain and sprockets back up once it has dried. The only place I don't do this is the bottom bracket, it this something I should be doing as I have gone through one bottom bracket per year for the last three years or is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8363" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T16:10:32.360" Title="Post cyclo cross race bike cleaning and lubrication for you bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33155" CreationDate="2015-09-03T09:20:33.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.olympiacicli.it/en/company/who-we-are&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Olympia&lt;/a&gt; bicycles are as good as any, and the company has been doing for about 100 years longer than any you mention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that Olympia produce good bikes, they have a different brand for pro-level equipment: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scapin.com/en/history&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scapin&lt;/a&gt;, one of which I am privileged to ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave an Olympia to my brother-in-law, three years ago. He's been riding it 500 km per month ever since without problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T09:20:33.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33166" CreationDate="2015-09-03T13:55:59.563" Score="0" ViewCount="10349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an option to buy a road bike that has the height of the frame 54 cm : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/sport-sportgeraete/top-rennrad-ktm-strada-nur-9-3-kg-alles-shimano-ultegra-132209154/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.willhaben.at/iad/kaufen-und-verkaufen/sport-sportgeraete/top-rennrad-ktm-strada-nur-9-3-kg-alles-shimano-ultegra-132209154/&lt;/a&gt; . I am 182 cm tall. When I went to a shop and asked the &quot;expert&quot; about the bike, he suggested me to buy the bike with a frame of 56 cm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a big difference between the two sizes? Should I buy the bike, or it doesn't fit to my height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19236" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T18:47:50.667" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T18:47:50.667" Title="I am 182 cm tall. Is a road bike with a frame height 54cm good for me?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-09-03T20:48:32.363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33159" CreationDate="2015-09-03T16:10:32.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern Cyclo-cross bikes typically used  bottom brackets with sealed cartridge bearings.  No real maintenance required, except to replace when worn out. When cleaning your bike, be careful as high water pressure can force debris past the seals and into cartridge bearings. Once a year replacement is pretty typical for bottom brackets with outboard bearings.  Sad, but true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, why are you lubricating he sprockets?  This will attract dirt.  The only place you want lubricant is inside each bushing on the chain and really no where else.  This is why everyone talks of wiping a chain down after lubing (and allowing time for the lube to penetrate the bushing assembly).  The only reason I can see for leaving lube anywhere else on the drive train (e.g., sprockets) is if you have inexpensive components that rust easily.  Even then, a little bit of surface rust doesn't really affect drive train performance, it just doesn't look pretty. (Surface rust being the key, a chain rusted into a giant block is of course pretty inefficient to pedal on.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T16:10:32.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33163" CreationDate="2015-09-03T16:20:40.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 175cm tall. I rode a road bike recently with a 56cm frame. I it had been any bigger I wouldn't have been able to ride it safely. 54 or 52cm would have been a better fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that a 54cm frame would be a bit small for you, but not painfully so. Get a 56 if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T16:20:40.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33163" CreationDate="2015-09-03T18:07:03.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 183 cm tall and ride size 55. I have relatively short legs, so I had a custom frame with longer than usual top tube made. For a person with more usual proportions a normal 56 would probably be fine. As already said, it depends on the exact dimensions and angles of that particular model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T18:07:03.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-03T18:46:55.653" Score="4" ViewCount="3585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1997 Gary Fisher Tassajara that got a complete overhaul and tune-up at a bike shop a year ago.  (to the tune of $180, but some of that was new tires- I'm the original owner)  I ride between 4 and 8 miles on logging roads and easy dirt trails several times a week, and didn't have this issue until late Spring.  The slipping started infrequently, but has gotten much worse in the past two months.  It doesn't slip in the highest gear, and I can sometimes find a lower one that will work for me- but other times I end up having to put the chain back on mid-ride.  I'm a little worried about the chain or gears actually breaking while I'm out in the wilderness alone, so have limited my backwoods trail-taking until I get this issue taken care of.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21427" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T14:35:52.097" Title="Why is my bike slipping gears?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;skipping&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33156" CreationDate="2015-09-03T19:07:10.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There shouldn't be a problem with this.  As was said, bike shops do it all the time.  Even a lightweight wheel needs to be strong enough to hold the bike and cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21428" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T19:07:10.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33168" CreationDate="2015-09-03T20:26:41.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When your bike was overhauled they likely replaced the shifter cables. The cables will stretch over time. The result is the derailleurs don't shift as accurately as they should. It is a fairly simple process to readjust them. There are many on line tutorials that will show you how to do this yourself. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself your local shop can help you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T20:26:41.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33124" CreationDate="2015-09-03T20:54:35.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is hard to spell this out but you basically hold the outer cable in your hand and with your thumb and forefinger to keep tension on the inner cable. If the outer cable (or cables, depending on the routing) is flush up against all stops the inner cable will stay tight in the lever by pulling it tight out of the other end of the outer cable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;hook it onto the caliper cable&quot; I am assuming you mean the straddle cable. Try this - the straddle cable has a &quot;nut&quot; (as you call it) attached to one end which quickly attaches/detaches from the brake arm. Detach the straddle cable. With the straddle cable detached from one brake arm, hook the straddle cable through the yoke and hold it there. Now you can make sure the other end of the cable is seating correctly in the lever. If it is still seated hook the loose end of the straddle cable to the brake arm. You might need one hand to squeeze the brakes shut while you do this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T20:54:35.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9237" CreationDate="2015-09-04T00:01:12.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hub dynamo is probably the most convenient way to stay visible. Thenr your front and rear lights will be always on and you don't forget to recharge them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern hub dynamo is very quiet and smooth to ride. The lights are bright enough safe night riding too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend using blinking lights because they are distracting to other road users and you are just as visible with still lights. With proper lights you don't need any bright garments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20002" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T00:01:12.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9237" CreationDate="2015-09-04T02:07:21.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of visibility I think the combination of that wretched high visibility yellow/green &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; lights is the way to go. In bright daylight I've noticed that the high visibility stuff doesn't show up very well when a rider is in and out of shade – especially if the shade is at the edge of the road and the rest of the road is in sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that situation a bright lights – especially ones like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&amp;amp;m-hl.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Busch &amp;amp; Müller&lt;/a&gt; Cyo that have a daytime running light mode that has a rounder (no sharp cutoff at the top of the beam like &quot;night lights&quot;) beam designed for daytime visibility. A really big, bright tail light also helps the bike stand out to following cars when riding into the sun (when his visibility clothing is also in shadow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T02:07:21.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33124" CreationDate="2015-09-04T02:15:17.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;dlu. exactly. thanks for the terminology reminders. it seems like the socket is upside down. the slug is stepped down from about a 1/4&quot; to an 1/8&quot; so it has to go in that hole which is shaped to accept it and the cable comes out the opposite side of the socket through the smaller hole. what am i missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the only thing that you're missing is the knowledge that the part that anchors the cable (with the hole) is free to rotate. One way to get it to go back is to take the end of the brake cable and catch the edge of the socket or slot and then drag the cable out again. Usually this will get the &quot;socket part&quot; to spin back around the way it should be facing and you can drop the cable in for real.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T02:15:17.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33168" CreationDate="2015-09-04T03:41:42.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When riding in wet/dirty terrain it's important to make sure your chain is well oiled and operating smoothly. If the chain isn't clean and lubricated it will feel like it &quot;slips&quot;.  If it feels stiff in a couple places after cleaning, lubrication, and a ride around the block, it might be time to replace it.&#xA;A thorough cleaning and good lubrication only works if your derailleurs are aligned properly though. Check your derailleurs and make sure they aren't overshooting the correct gears. Cables stretch and often times I find myself tuning my derailleurs at least once after new cables are installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21388" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T03:41:42.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33156" CreationDate="2015-09-04T05:38:55.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done this before and it worked out nicely. I never had a problem with the forks (even with shocks, though if they are expensive shocks you'll want to lock them first), headjoints, anything. Turning them to face the wall (so its like they are riding up the wall) makes it easier to get them in and out. Even with a 40lbs. crappy, huge BSO-grade MTB it wasn't hard to stow or recover. Maybe my (tiny) wife would have found it more difficult, but anyway 40lbs. isn't very heavy* and its about as heavy as bikes get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if I would do this with racing rims that have huge gaps between spoke sections, but then again a racing bike is ~1/3 the weight of a 40lbs. pile of poo -- so it probably wouldn't be an issue even then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[*I mean 40lbs. isn't heavy to &lt;em&gt;lift&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;carry&lt;/em&gt;... 40lbs. feels enormously heavy and sluggish to &lt;em&gt;ride&lt;/em&gt; when you're used to slipping around on something 1/3 the weight!]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10587" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T05:38:55.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-04T07:58:13.867" Score="1" ViewCount="316" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone in the group has tried building a &quot;Bike-in-a-Kit&quot;- a sort of DIY bicycle, which can be entirely assembled and disassembled by the user and can be conveniently carried in a bag ?&#xA;I face such problem when I've to take my kid for cycling and have to carry his entire bike in my car. Its tedious and cumbersome and I'm not very fond of those bicycle stands/racks that can be put on cars.&#xA;Suggestions/Answers are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22435" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T08:42:20.753" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T18:37:10.503" Title="Bike-in-a-Kit Concept" Tags="&lt;build&gt;&lt;commuting-bike&gt;&lt;diy&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34182" CreationDate="2015-09-04T09:16:14.800" Score="2" ViewCount="2950" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I need to switch the suspension fork, should I stop before switch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20684" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T10:09:29.180" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T18:59:42.160" Title="Is it Ok to lock or unlock my suspension fork while riding?" Tags="&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-09-04T20:23:06.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34177" CreationDate="2015-09-04T10:01:25.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can just switch while riding along.  Obviously, (assuming no bar mounted remote) you have to be going at a speed at which it's sensible to take one hands off the bars to open/close the fork.  If you forget to unlock the fork and head down a descent you might want to stop/slow down a lot to switch it in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13682" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T10:01:25.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34177" CreationDate="2015-09-04T11:03:42.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a bar-mounted lockout, there is of course a small risk involved in taking a hand from the bar, bending down and flicking the lockout, but other than that I can't see it being detrimental to the bike in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the lockouts I've tried require the weight to be off the fork though which usually necessitates a slight front-end lift to allow the lockout to be turned, so you probably have to account for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I certainly wouldn't do it in any kind of tricky terrain, or when travelling at speed, but I lock mine out or re-enable all the time on the move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3104" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T11:03:42.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34176" CreationDate="2015-09-04T12:02:24.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could look online (YouTube) and watch a tutorial on how to disassemble the bike. I'm not sure disassembling the ENTIRE bike would be necessary, though. I would try taking off both of the wheels and then leaning all three pieces against a seat, or if you fold a seat down, the seat and the wall of the car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would try this first. Although still a little cumbersome, it would be the quickest and easiest way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T12:02:24.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-04T12:10:06.973" Score="2" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought an 11 speed shimano 105 groupset, unfortunately the 11 speed FD does not fit my bike (It is an Airnimal Chamelion).  Therefore I have a choice of Sram 11 speed FD or Shimano 105 10speed ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;please advise which is best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22438" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T19:36:13.610" Title="which is better a sram 11 speed or shimano 10 speed FD with shimano 105 11speed groupset" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34177" CreationDate="2015-09-04T12:26:14.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should generally stop and set the suspension to an uncompressed/unloaded position before you switch, especially if it's a cheaper lockout.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, you would not try to change the position of a deadbolt on a door while the door is partially open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/14730/do-i-need-to-take-my-weight-off-the-bike-to-lock-out-the-suspension&quot;&gt;Do I need to take my weight off the bike to lock out the suspension?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21242" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T18:59:42.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-04T12:51:37.877" Score="2" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just changed a worn out cassette on my road bike (SRAM 8 speed 12-26T) and replaced it with a Shimano 12-25T 8 speed cassette.  Now it looks like my gear shifting doesn't work.  I can't get into the lowest gear, and there's a clicking sound when I try.  I know almost nothing about derailleurs.  What is my best option now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22439" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T12:03:35.033" Title="gear shifting after changing cassette" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34177" CreationDate="2015-09-04T13:53:30.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd assume it's something you could, but you probably shouldn't do. Kind of like shifting a car into gear without being stopped, you're just gunna wear your hardware that much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T13:53:30.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34176" CreationDate="2015-09-04T14:54:11.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes they have travel bicycles that can be broken down&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/57HTH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/57HTH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They typically use S&amp;amp;S couplers&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But compared to the time to break and assemble a rack is less tedious.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have folding bicycles&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But the don't perform as well a regular bicycle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A break down bicycle is going to have better performance but takes longer for break down and assemble   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Break down and folding bicycles are more expensive  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a regular frame you are not going to get much benefit from a full disassemble compared to just removing the wheels.  Beyond that lower the seat and maybe spin the bars 90 degrees or remove it.  A full disassemble and  assemble is hours of work and something I would want to do in a shop with a full set of tools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T14:54:11.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34177" CreationDate="2015-09-04T16:04:07.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hydraulic lockouts can be activated on the fly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanical ones can't (in theory), because you the fork has to be completely extended. I can activate my mechanical lock on the fly by pulling up on the stem with one hand and turning the lock with the other hand, but it's a little dangerous:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All forks can be unlocked on the fly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T16:04:07.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34192" CreationDate="2015-09-04T16:41:23.750" Score="4" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand wearing base layers in the colder months, but I see cycling clothing companies (Castelli, Assos, Rapha, etc) also making undershirts specifically for hot summer riding. Given how lightweight and breathable some of the summer jerseys are (like Castelli's Climber's Jersey), why would riders want to add another layer during the summer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages to wearing an undershirt during the summer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11045" LastActivityDate="2018-04-27T15:06:16.420" Title="Cycling base layers in warm weather?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32627" CreationDate="2015-09-04T16:43:59.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently you are not the first victim of this problem:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saferproducts.gov/ViewIncident/1237585&quot;&gt;http://www.saferproducts.gov/ViewIncident/1237585&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you should also submit an incident report to the CPSC (assuming you are in the US).  Since you were injured you may also want to talk to a personal injury lawyer.  RacerMate's website claims they offer an &quot;indestructable build&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer should provide guidance on the safe use and maintenance of their products.  I'm sure they are aware of this type of failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:  the currently shipping Computrainer flywheel is apparently made of copper.  That sounds like it would be less prone to shatter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21401" LastEditorDisplayName="user21401" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T19:11:50.433" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T19:11:50.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34212" CreationDate="2015-09-04T16:48:08.943" Score="1" ViewCount="1293" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: I recently competed in the Tour of the Catskills in New York. Unfortunately, this year was the last year that this event will be held, due to financial stresses. I'm not very familiar with the costs associated with hosting a multi-day stage race - about how much does it cost to put on a similar stage race?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;similar&quot;, I mean a 3 day stage race, consisting of a time trial, two road races, chip timing, leaders' jerseys (GC, KOM and points - at least 63 total @21 jerseys/stage) and multiple category races (5, 4, 3, P/1/2) for both men and women.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having a difficult time finding resources online that give any sort of estimate for the costs of organizing bike races. I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://303cycling.com/cost-of-promoting-a-bike-race&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; which gave the numbers for a one day race (~$3K), but not only was this post from 5 years ago, it didn't look like the race had timing or leaders' jerseys and is not a multi-day event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a typical cost (estimate) for this type of event?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm not looking for an exact number. I just want a ballpark answer; something to give me an idea of the financial resources it takes to run one of these events. For instance, even saying something like, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I ran a road race last year with chip timing and it cost us $X. We didn't have leaders' jerseys, but a custom jersey costs about $Y. Therefore, for a stage race, you could expect to spend about $3X + $63Y&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would be really beneficial to me and anyone looking into hosting a stage race, since this information seems to be very difficult to find for cycling races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11045" LastEditorUserId="11045" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T19:53:48.277" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T03:55:19.367" Title="Race organizers: how much does it cost to put on a stage race?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34189" CreationDate="2015-09-04T17:42:18.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of these claim to make you cooler (temperature, not social standing :-)) but whether they actually do or not is another matter. Some fabrics can certainly feel cooler to the touch, and thus may make you feel cooler when riding - which could give you a psychological performance advantage - but whether they physically help cool you down is another matter. Finding information on the actual technology and any sort of scientific testing is difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ride in Florida and the temperature range can sometimes go from cool in the morning to very hot by afternoon. I've worn &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.underarmour.com/en-us/technology/heatgear&quot;&gt;UnderAmour Heatgear&lt;/a&gt; base layers to keep warm at the start of a ride and found them to be fine when it warms up and they help to wick away sweat if you're not wearing a tight fitting jersey. However that's only up to a certain temperature. Once it gets beyond that I found it just makes you hotter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason may be for sun protection. Many cycling jerseys are so thin they don't offer much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some base layers offer a compression fit, too. Again, companies market this as performance enhancing. Whether that's true is entirely subjective, IMHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, (and if you choose to wear a base layer because of this then you may want to practice riding more) they offer some physical protection. I hit the deck at 25 mph once. My jersey was torn to bits and my skin underneath would have been too if it were not for that fact that I was wearing a base layer that came away relatively unscathed. (The weather was warm enough that I didn't need the base layer, btw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10538" LastEditorUserId="10538" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T18:19:02.877" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T18:19:02.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34176" CreationDate="2015-09-04T18:37:10.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything has good points and bad points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car racks have an moderate expense, initial setup time, and then are very easy to use with virtually whatever bike you purchase (small time investment when needed).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Folding bikes require the purchase of a moderately expensive bike, no initial time investment, but then a time investment EVERYTIME you want to use/transport the bike.  They will also generally have less performance and be slightly more fragile than a regular bike.  The time investment may be moot if you force your child to do the dissembly/reassembly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coupler bikes are similar to folding bikes, but are generally sturdier than a folding bike, have better performance and a higher initial cost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The drawbacks to couplers and folders also being that you have a limited selection of bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T18:37:10.503" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34181" CreationDate="2015-09-04T19:36:13.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you should be using a 11 speed Shimano road FD with a 11 speed road Shimano shifter. SRAM will have cable pull issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2015/03/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-10-11-speed-drivetrain-component-compatibility_362722&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to Zinn&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;a Shimano 11-speed shifter will not work well with a 10-speed front derailleur because the 11-speed shifter is designed to actuate the longer lever arm of Shimano 11-speed front derailleurs.&quot; so that cuts out the old days where you didn't have to match the front shifter speeds with the front derailleur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you need to find the right Shimano 11 speed front derailleur for your frame (you're looking for &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/components11/road/1051/fd-5800-l.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Shimano 105 5800 Braze-On Front Derailleur&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (Shimano FD-5800-L) since the &lt;a href=&quot;http://airnimal.eu/products/chameleon/performance-sport/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Airnimal Chameleon&lt;/a&gt; seems to have a Braze On FD). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T19:36:13.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33168" CreationDate="2015-09-05T14:35:52.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a textbook cable tension issue. Since you stated that your highest and lowest gears are working well, I assume that the middle gears are the ones that are slipping. You could take it back to the bike shop and explain this to them and they'll surely fix it for you. Given the time that has passed since they last touched it, they'll probably charge you. If you want to just fix it yourself, use the thumb and index-finger adjusters either up near your shifter or down at the derailleur. First, shift to a gear that slips, preferably the most centered gear on your cassette. Looking down onto your bike from above, or from behind the back tire, align your eye with your chainline and your cassette. Twist the cable tension adjuster to increase or decrease the cable tension and watch the derailleur move away from, or toward your spokes. Center up the line that the chain is running by watching your cassette and the derailleur pulleys. These will likely be very small adjustments! Center it up and then jump on and go through the gears. If you get it close, then use the adjuster up near your shifter to fine tune it while you pedal. If you can't get it, the cable might have stretched to the point where it needs to be reset at its anchor point at the derailleur. Bike shops should know to stretch all cables when they are installed and test ride everything, but this is a good thing to know how to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8858" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T14:35:52.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32888" CreationDate="2015-09-05T16:12:40.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I was changing a set of brake pads today, I was reminded of this question and realised that there is a safe way to change the pads and reset the pistons without removing the wheel and that is to unbolt the brake calliper from the fork/frame, reset the pistons and then bolt it back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much hassle this is will depend on the mount required to fit your calliper.  If the rotor size/calliper mount is such that the calliper bolts directly to the fork/frame without any adaptor, it should be relatively easy.  When remounting the calliper you'll have to re-adjust it to be centred around the disk, but you might have to do this after changing the pads anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I do think removing the wheel is the simplest and easiest way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13682" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T16:12:40.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21360" CreationDate="2015-09-05T16:39:55.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I made the same error I took the whole handlebar assembly off, removed the long bolt, tied some string firmly round it, and lowered it into the hole. With an Allen key (using tension on the string to keep the Allen key and bolt together) I then had just enough length to reach the wedge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screwed the bolt in a bit, and out it all came. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22448" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-05T23:03:43.857" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T23:03:43.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6115" CreationDate="2015-09-05T18:53:01.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to add some things to the above answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hub is of the quick-release (QR) type (some are not), then the bearings adjustment will become tighter when the QR skewer is tightened. Therefore, some sources recommend that there should be a small play in the bearings &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; the wheel is put in place (see for instance &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html&lt;/a&gt;). This play will then be eliminated when the QR skewer is tightened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have observed that on many hubs (with QR) it is possible to tighten the QR with different tightness and still keep the wheel in place. For instance, the tightness can be &lt;strong&gt;almost loose&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;hard&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;super hard&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;super duper hard&lt;/strong&gt;. Although the adustment should not be &lt;strong&gt;almost loose&lt;/strong&gt;, it is possible to choose between a range of tightnesses from &lt;strong&gt;hard&lt;/strong&gt; and upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the point: Assuming that there is a slight play in the bearings &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; the wheel is tightened in the fork with the QR, one can achieve different degrees of play by tightening the QR differently hard!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it have been that you tightened the QR harder when assembling it the last time (when you felt the play) than before that? In that case, this could be the cause of your too tight bearing adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I do not know if my practice of tightening the QR differently much is recommended by experts. I do think however, that tightening the QR &lt;strong&gt;super duper hard&lt;/strong&gt; will not make the wheel less prone to come off than if tightening the QR only &lt;strong&gt;super hard&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22449" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T18:53:01.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T20:06:46.513" Score="-5" ViewCount="2183" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Context:&lt;/strong&gt; Bicycle wheels can become untrue if the rim is bent, e.g. from hitting a curb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The usual question&lt;/strong&gt;: Can a bent aluminium rim be bent back straight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The two camps&lt;/strong&gt; (figuratively):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Sure, go for it! See for instance: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/on-road-wheel-repairs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/on-road-wheel-repairs.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. NEVER bend aliminium. See for instance some posts at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/374083-pothole-damaged-rim-fix-replace.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/374083-pothole-damaged-rim-fix-replace.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have observed that many people hold an opinion in between. For instance Zinn in his book &lt;em&gt;Zinn &amp;amp; the Art of Road Bike Maintenance&lt;/em&gt; claims that an aluminium rim can be bent as an emergency repair on the road (The Sheldon Brown link is also framed as conerning roadside repairs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question&lt;/strong&gt;: Does bending an aluminium rim &lt;strong&gt;actually&lt;/strong&gt; make it much more prone to failure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am well aware that the question can be interpreted in many ways and that it can produce low quality answers with anecdotal evidence. To prevent this, I will try to specify what kind of answers I do and do not seek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Please do not mention &lt;strong&gt;one single&lt;/strong&gt; instance when you bent a rim straight, then your rode it a few times and it still remained intact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Please do not mention if your rim broke one, after bending it straight, as a result of an accident that could otherwise easily have bent it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Answers that refer to multiple, well monitored cases observed over a long time are premiered. For instance, if you have bent several rims straight for several friends over 20 years of time and you know that each of them have ridden the wheels for a long time and that they would report if something went bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Please add details, such as how bent the rims were before you straightened them (approximate deflection from the straight wheel plane) and for how long and &quot;how hard&quot; the wheels have been ridden, if possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As an exception to the above points, I would be interested in single cases that a rim has collapsed after being bent straight, after being used under normal, not exceptionally straining conditions. This is because I have never ONCE heard of this happening. And I have seen and read about quite a few bikes in my time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the question still can lead to multi-faceted I think that it is highly relevant. I think of this often, but I have been unable to find solid evidence for one camp or the other. Either people claim that bending rims has worked for them on &lt;em&gt;few&lt;/em&gt; occasions, or they claim that &quot;aluminium must not be bent&quot;, as if that were a universal truth without room for exceptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22449" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T12:48:26.457" Title="How bad is it **really** to bend aluminium rims? Requesting evidence based answers" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-09-08T12:46:56.190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T20:11:50.127" Score="4" ViewCount="4437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Orlando, Florida, and I am stuck with no transportation besides public buses, taxis, etc. as my bike literally fell apart in pieces in the middle of a road. I am looking to purchase a new bike, but I would need for it to be professionally assembled. My question is would most bike shops work something out where I could ship it directly to them for assembly, so that I do not have to walk with a bike box for a few miles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22451" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T19:41:28.223" Title="Do Bike stores allow you to ship a bike to them to assemble?" Tags="&lt;shopping&gt;&lt;new-bicycle-assembly&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T20:24:18.417" Score="3" ViewCount="1229" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the pistons popped out of the caliper on my Avid Elixir 5 brakes. Can I just put the piston back in and bleed the brakes and then they will be good as new, or do I have to rebuild the whole caliper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4644" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T06:29:16.603" Title="The piston on my Avid Elixir 5 brakes popped out. Does the caliper need to be rebuilt?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T21:19:40.353" Score="2" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Ridgeback Velocity bicycle suddenly disengages and goes limp and loose when pedalling forward, similar as if I'm pedalling backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22452" LastEditorUserId="11462" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T12:38:08.383" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T12:38:08.383" Title="When pedaling forward my bike suddenly disingages and goes limp" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34205" CreationDate="2015-09-05T21:48:32.153" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your description it sounds like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot;&gt;freehub&lt;/a&gt; failure, where the pawls of the ratchet in the rear gears are sticky or broken.  It's a replaceable part.  Any bicycle repair shop should be able to provide it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21401" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T21:48:32.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34201" CreationDate="2015-09-05T21:53:30.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This comes down to the difference between plastic and elastic flexing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from the Sheldon Brown article you linked to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Often, surprisingly, a lightweight rim is only flexed, not bent, and the wheel can be sprung back nearly into its original shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This refers to aluminum that has not been stretched beyond its elastic range. As long as you stay within the elastic range, you're okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is damaging to bend aluminum into its plastic range. That's where you start to compromise its strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-06T05:58:33.597" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T05:58:33.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34202" CreationDate="2015-09-05T22:08:00.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes many bicycle repair shops offer assembly service.  Of course they would also like a shot at your business for the bike.  You will generally get more free service from a shop where you purchased the bike, so there is some value to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21401" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T22:08:00.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34202" CreationDate="2015-09-05T22:51:17.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, bike shops don't make much money off of turning wrenches. It then follows that they don't typically care for some bike that you chose to buy online instead of from their showroom, which is where most of their money is made. If you buy something that doesn't align well with a particular shop, i.e. an overly cheap bike and a shop that deals a lot with higher-end stuff, they might not want to associate themselves with such an inferior product. Cheap shifters and derailleurs, for example, can be impossible to dial in. One can not expect even a seasoned mechanic to be responsible for cheap metals that bend under pressure as their eventual imperfect performance could then be associated with his work or his shop. As a second example, cheaper rims can be a nightmare to true; as is expecting them to remain so. The time that it takes to work with a cheap bike is not worth the shop's time. All of this being said, however, just go into the bike shop and explain your situation to them. If you're ordering something that they think is worth their time, then expect to pay at least $100 to $125 for them to properly assemble it and tune it. They might even be able to show you something there in the shop that is comparable to what you're interested in!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8858" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T22:51:17.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34202" CreationDate="2015-09-05T23:11:35.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local bike shop has a posted price of $80 to assemble a bike as received in a box (presumably bought over the internet) and $200 to assemble a bike from a frame and set of components.  One of my friends bought a frame and groupset (quite a nice one) and they were happy to do the work.  You should talk to the specific shop you are thinking of and see what they say. The same shop has free lifetime adjustments on any bike you buy from them, so you need to figure that into your calculation of the economics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T23:11:35.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34245" CreationDate="2015-09-06T00:53:47.207" Score="3" ViewCount="2245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Mavix CXP-12 wheels (20mm). I have relatively new &lt;a href=&quot;http://freedombicycle.com/products/thickslick&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Freedom ThickSlick&lt;/a&gt; 23mm Tires on the wheels. I've been using these inner tubes: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00JDZUEEK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Meetlocks® 700x18-23c&lt;/a&gt;. I weigh 165 lb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just keep getting flats, both rear and front. More often the rear. Sometimes I get flats twice on a single 20 mile ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was inflating to 110 PSI, and I assumed these were pinch flats, so I tried going up to 125 PSI and that just made things worse. Then I tried running at 90 PSI and that didn't help either. I thought the spokes seemed a bit loose and maybe they were poking the tube on bumps, so I tightened all the spokes a turn and that didn't help. I replaced the rim tape and that didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tires are not compromised at all. The rims have no burrs or anything like that and the rim tape looks perfectly intact. These are definitely some sort of pinch flat. The punctures are usually on the side or inside of the inner tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was having this same problem on another brand of inner tubes (I forget the brand name). So I doubt that's the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what's going on. Is there an incompatibility between these 23mm tires on my 20mm rim that leads to flats? Do I need to have the wheels rebuilt? They look perfectly true to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any pointers appreciated. My only guess at the moment is I need to get 20mm tires. But I'm worried that'll just be a waste of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22453" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-06T04:16:23.193" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T00:41:40.917" Title="I cannot go 30 miles without a flat. I can't figure out what the problem is" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34191" CreationDate="2015-09-06T03:14:55.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If that event truly folded because of financial pressure one could assume the total cost of the stage race approached the revenue generated by the race which was likely between $65,000 and $80,000 based off the pre-registration numbers shown for the race on BikeReg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, I can roughly estimate some fees based off the USAC fee schedule, my personal experience with races my team produces and conversations I've had with other Race Directors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$1500 - Volunteer food/drinks (~$10 per volunteer. Estimate this event needs 125-150 volunteers based on size of circuit and road race courses)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$225 - USAC Permits (Class D event, $75 per day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$3359 - USAC Per Day Per Racer Insurance ($3.60 per racer per day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$300 - USAC Chief Ref ($100 per day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$240 - USAC Chief Judge ($80 per day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$420 - Additional USAC Non-Moto Refs/Judges ($70 per day each)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$80 - USAC Chief Timer (Time trial. $80 per day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$1260 - USAC Moto Refs ($70 per day per each)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$875 - USAC Officals Per Diem ($35 per day requiring overnight)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$2500 - USAC Officals Hotel Expenses (will depend on local rates, assumes 25 nights at $100 each)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$???? - USAC Offical Travel Cost ($.046 per mile)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$550 - USAC Additional 4mm event liability Insurance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$950 - USAC Non-Owned/Hired Motorcycle Insurance ($100 each named driver for first 5, $50 each after. Need 14 refs to cover stage 3 road race)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$600 - USAC Non-Owned/Hired Automobile Insurance ($30 each named driver, need 6 for stage 2 circuit race, 14 for stage 3 road race. Assume no overlap of drivers between day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USAC Offical Travel Cost ($.046 per mile)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$1890 - Leader Jerseys (Voler Full Custom $63 each)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$1500 - Neutral Support (Sram $500 per day for 1/2/3 field, cost might actually have gone up)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$9320 - Prize List&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$200 - Bib Numbers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$350 - Timing Chips (passive, $0.70 each)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$3300 - Timing Services ($3 per racer per day, $1,100 minimum per day. Note: Timing for the time trial may be higher.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$1800 - Portable Toilets ($100 per day each. 4, 6, 6 needed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$933 - Local Association Fees (Varies for different LA's but estimate at $1.00 per racer per day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following items will also need to be considered but could vary greatly based local:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trophies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other Hotel costs (Think Key race personnel/volunteers) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Onsite Medics (2 each day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Onsite Ambulance (if required)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USAC Fees for any additional named parties on the insurance certificate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;USAC Fees for any pre-race meetings with Officials&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fencing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Police Support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generators&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tents/Tables/Chairs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;City/County/State Permits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traffic Saftey Plan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Announcer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sound System Rental&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Misc Office Supplies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volunteer Safety Gear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water/Sports Drink for Participants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vendor Permits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trash Removal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traffic Cones/Saftey Tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Signage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Street Sweeping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road Repairs &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Venue Rental fees&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fuel costs for pace cars/wheel vans&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting the way a stage race is composed can dramatically change the cost of putting on the event. For instance the Tour of the Catskills is a 3 day event but only has 3 stages. If the race was held as a 2 day event a number of costs such as those for officials, permits, medical support, neutral support etc. would be lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally the sheer number of race categories and the fact all of the Stage 3 races are on the road at the same time increases the cost quite a bit. In stage 3 you have 7 separate fields racing at the same time which means you need to find and pay insurance for 14 moto refs, 7 pace cars, 7 wheel vans.... A more typical Amateur 2 day, 3 stage race composed of a road race, time trial and criterium or very short circuit race would be much less costly to produce than the Tour of the Catskills.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing not included above is an estimate of any in-kind sponsorship support received. At the very least you would want to make sure you have enough sponsors to provide prizes for any of the fields that are receiving merchandise prizes instead of cash prizes. Ideally you would want to find in-kind sponsors cover as many of the misc. services required by the race as possible. This can have a dramatic effect on the profitability of a race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-09-06T03:55:19.367" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T03:55:19.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34211" CreationDate="2015-09-06T04:56:20.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't mention where you're riding, or what &quot;level&quot; your tires are (the &lt;a href=&quot;http://freedombicycle.com/products/thickslick&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ThickSlick&lt;/a&gt; tires appear to come in a variety of builds with different amounts of puncture resistance), so it is a bit hard to comment on the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding in urban areas where there is glass or other damaging materials on the road, it could be that the tires just aren't durable enough for the conditions where you're riding. They seem to be a relatively light tire, compared to, say, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_420&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Marathon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time you get a flat take the time to really look it over, you need more evidence to figure out the pattern. As suggested, mark the puncture and work methodically – you want to remember what you did so that you can see the patterns. Here are some specific things to look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't think you're getting pinch flats, but they are pretty easy to recognize – pinch flats result in two holes, like a snake bite, where the tube gets caught between the rim and the tire as you hit an obstacle. Pinch flats mean you need more pressure. If you can't increase the pressure, then a bigger tire is in order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Punctures from objects working through the tread cause a puncture that is usually on the outside of the tube (opposite the side with the valve) and often you can find matching damage on the tire – even if the object is no longer embedded in the tire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A flat due to spoke damage would have the hole on the same side as the valve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your description of mounting the tire and tube sounds reasonable and it does seem unlikely that you'd do it wrong every time, but do practice to see if you can do it without tools, that will lessen even more the chance of damaging the tube as you mount the tire. Many procedures for changing a tire suggest working around from the rim splice to the valve hole. On most tires, you won't need tools at all, but if you do it will be for the last couple of inches. If you work towards the valve that is where you'd pinch with tools, so a puncture there might indicate damage from a tire iron.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T16:09:22.257" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T16:09:22.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34215" CreationDate="2015-09-06T05:10:55.973" Score="4" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have experience with riding with a big (60-70 pound) dog? I took a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1575/how-do-you-carry-a-dog-on-a-bike&quot;&gt;How do you carry a dog on a bike?&lt;/a&gt;, but there doesn't seem to be much experience with big dogs reflected there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm hoping for is a bike setup that would be practical (e.g., easy to set up and go) for errands around town and short rides (30-50 km). It would be a bonus if the bike also worked well for &quot;non-extreme&quot; touring (with dog). I don't think I want to ride with the dog running alongside – there is too much traffic for me to feel like that is safe for dog or rider. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/tradesman-cargo-frame-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soma Tradesman&lt;/a&gt; looks like a possibility, although I'm not sure that it would work with such a big dog on the platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to considering a trailer, but the one's I've seen and used don't seem to practical for use in a (sub)urban environment. I've seen a bike with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobgear.com/bike-trailers/yak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bob Yak trailer&lt;/a&gt; and a biggish (maybe 40 pound) dog &quot;surfing&quot; on the platform, but it seems too risky for the dog without some modification to the trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T02:48:28.633" Title="Riding with a big dog" Tags="&lt;cargo&gt;&lt;animals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-09-08T12:57:51.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34214" CreationDate="2015-09-06T05:55:25.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I trust you used the search function and read &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1575/how-do-you-carry-a-dog-on-a-bike&quot;&gt;&quot;How do you carry a dog on a bike&quot;&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't ridden with a big dog since I was a child, but I have a friend who had one. My experience was that when the dog weighed about the same as I did my ability to ride was entirely dependent on the co-operation of the dog. In my case that was not usually a problem, but when he leaned out to have a look I had to stop. In that respect it's much like riding a tandem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing is how disciplined the dog is. If your dog will stay in sit or lie when there's a dogfight going on or some other strong distraction, the only question is how you carry the weight. And the Soma Tradesman will do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that you won't be able to effectively strap a dog onto that front rack - it's too small, and you can't fit a deep enough basket to it, so any attachment is going to require a full harness on the dog, and tying the harness to the rack between the dog's front legs. I can't imagine any dog liking that. Otherwise you'd get (at best) strangulation issues when the dog tries to sit up or jump off, and more likely you and the dog will end up in a heap on the ground. At whatever speed you were travelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheap option that will work is a trailer. Either a second hand on (probably a kiddy trailer since they're more common), or a new one, and ideally one of the ones designed to carry a dog. That way you can enclose the dog so it's not tied in one place, but it can't get out and run amok. A two wheel trailer is also more stable, so the dog moving about won't throw you off the bike (as easily). &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.biketrailershop.com/bike-dog-trailers-e-162.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; discusses trailers in detail and recommends &lt;a href=&quot;http://croozer.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Croozer&lt;/a&gt;. I have seen decent size dogs carried this way, and one that the owner was happy to leave loose with the trailer open so the dog could jump out and run when it wanted to. I've never owned a dog that I was willing to see killed, so I haven't done that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to go touring, the trailer will not be ideal and the consensus is that to reduce air and rolling resistance you want a low, single wheel trailer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/394/one-vs-two-wheeled-bike-trailers/440#440&quot;&gt;one vs two wheel trailer&lt;/a&gt;)... which will not work with a dog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dog-owning friend ended up with a load bike for his dog. Something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.longjohn.org/galerie/galerie_en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;long john&lt;/a&gt; will be ok for touring and very handy for carrying loads around town. As with kids, the dog will probably appreciate being able to see something other than your butt. Those are increasingly common in Oz, and I suspect the USA too. They've been common in Europe for going on 100 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KgRZh.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KgRZh.png&quot; alt=&quot;long john bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other load carriers will also work, but you will need to do your own research and balance load capacity, ease of pedalling, cost and availablity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T05:55:25.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-06T07:53:59.733" Score="1" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bicycle is a Rockrider 520. I have replaced my front derailleur with Shimano Acera FD-M390 and my crankset with Shimano Acera FC-M391. But chain is rubbing inside of FD even when FD cable is not attached. I tried completely loose L screw but it still rubbing and FD is not moving inside anymore. FD is parallel with chainrings and there is 3 mm gap with FD and biggest chainring. How can I solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pics: &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/QJlHg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://imgur.com/a/QJlHg&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19126" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T12:33:15.170" Title="Chain rubbing on new derailleur and crankset" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34216" CreationDate="2015-09-06T08:24:17.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might sound weird, but if you're finding trouble adjusting the FD on the lowest gear, try adjusting the high (H) screw. You'd be surprised just how much those two screws affect each individual gear. Unfortunately, these kind of adjustments are ones you really just have to play with until they're just right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the initial rubbing, don't be surprised if you can't totally get rid of it. With certain group sets, (particularly Shimano, for some reason), the rubbing is still going to be there no matter how much adjusting you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to prevent the rubbing by making sure your chain and drive train are kept clean and well lubricated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T08:24:17.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34211" CreationDate="2015-09-06T09:31:33.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slow down. You are a commonality here.  Yes you may be installing improperly every time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A smaller tire is NOT the direction to go.  You want as big a tire as will go on the bike and run it at top of pressure range posted on the tire. Bigger tires have a bigger load capacity and are more pinch resistant.  I don't like the super heavy duty tires as they have a hard ride.  Get a heavy duty tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my daily commuter I run 32 mm tires and only flat I got was because I was riding a tire worn way past the limit.  It is a single speed and I don't even carry a repair kit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my workout/fun bike I run 35 mm and in 5 years one flat. The tube just flat out failed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you inflate the tube and then pop it on the rim you are not doing it like everyone else because I don't do it that way.  Watch a video on YouTube.  Inflate to give it some shape.  Then deflate and get it on by hand. Get the tire down in the grove to get some room.  I only have to use tools on brand new tight tire.  Take it up to 10 psi and then deflate to let folds come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that does not work then take the wheels into a bike shop an have them look at them.  Don't just tighten the spokes a turn - that is NOT how to treat wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T09:31:33.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34183" CreationDate="2015-09-06T11:33:25.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I stated in my comment,you need to rearrange your limit settings after switching the cassette, you can have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RbFE8yX7ww&amp;amp;feature=iv&amp;amp;src_vid=rpBP-UWVkXY&amp;amp;annotation_id=annotation_1504050971&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, if the limits are not set correctly the chain could either fall off the cassette or not being able to reach the smaller/bigger cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21307" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T11:33:25.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34216" CreationDate="2015-09-06T12:33:15.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lower the front dérailleur, so that the protruding part on the inner side of front dérailleur does not touch the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if the above does not fix, try to re-align the rotation of front derailleur: make it just enough so that it won't rub on the lowest gear&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;then check if it rubs the chain on the highest gear, i.e. 3 -9 gear. If it does, try to adjust the cable so that it can bring the front dérailleur a bit further away on higest gear. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all fails, it's now a trial and error from all the steps I have said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T12:33:15.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34222" CreationDate="2015-09-06T15:06:08.470" Score="3" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have dual system floor pump. When I use it with auto valve it is no brainer to use -- after attaching the pump I get the reading right away, I pump, with each stroke there is small spike in reading, but then pressure readings drops to around pressure in the tube. In other words oscillation is very small and it is easy to read pressure just after attachment or during pumping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However with presta valve it is completely different story (I was wondering if it is my pump fault, but after some googling I see others face the same problem) -- after attaching the pump I have no reading (i.e. pressure is supposed to be zero), with each stroke there is huge spike in reading the pressure, and then the pressure reading drops to nearly zero again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two completely different worlds. I already read some tips about pumping, like slow, smooth, strokes so you could have time to read the peak pressure, but this does not suite me (I already blew one tube with presta valve due to misreading the pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this -- is this problem systematic, by design, or are there some pumps which can give the readings as nicely as for auto valve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T15:22:11.203" Title="Is pressure of presta valve hard to read by design?" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;&lt;presta&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34221" CreationDate="2015-09-06T15:22:11.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is your pump's valve chuck. Some valve chucks press the valve's center pin, which lets the pressure from tire to pump and allows reading the pressure. Some other chucks, such as the one you have, do not do that feature. If pressure drops to near zero after every stroke, there may also a leak somewhere in your pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacement valve chucks are available, you can replace it if you do not want to buy an entire new pump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T15:22:11.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2015-09-06T15:29:50.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's another reason that hasn't been discussed: rim brakes are better for &quot;feathering&quot; - where you very lightly engage and/or disengage the brakes to make very minor speed adjustments, which is incredibly important in the middle of the peloton. You don't want to surprise anyone with sudden changes, you want to be able to respond instantly and smoothly to what's happening in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand (apologies, no reference) that disc brakes have better absolute stopping power, but for fine speed adjustments and feathering control rim brakes are superior, hence their dominance on road bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22458" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T15:29:50.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34999" CreationDate="2015-09-06T15:34:45.533" Score="4" ViewCount="2792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a mountain bike for my daughter at a yard sale recently.  It's not a high-end bike (a Huffy, but probably the walmart or academy sports variety), but it was very cheap (under $20) and effectively brand new...  one of those &quot;we bought her a bike but she never rode it and now it's too small for her&quot; sort of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway.  The problem is, it's a 15-speed (3 in front, 5 in back) and the shifters are really strange, especially the right side.  Its a simple thumb shifter with a single lever.  The marks indicate 5 speeds but it's out of tune I think since it doesn't shift anywhere near where the marks are, and she has to sort of play with it to get it to shift.  Basically push it up until it shifts, then dial it back down so the derailleur won't rub (that's actually more a problem on the front than the back, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, though - where can I get a 5-speed shifter?  I haven't been able to find any other than some old ones on ebay.  I have a hunch that the shifter is REALLY a 10-speed shifter with a sticker on it that says it's a 5-speed one.  I'm not looking to spend a lot of money on this, it's not a good enough bike and since it's a 24&quot; she'll outgrow it in a couple years, but since this is her first mountian bike, I don't want to turn her off of it because the shifter is squirrelly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22457" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T21:55:56.070" Title="5-speed shifter?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34226" CreationDate="2015-09-06T17:51:13.210" Score="2" ViewCount="14350" Body="&lt;p&gt;My pedals are moving when I'm coasting, and if I try to stop them the upper segment of the chain gets really loose, and the rear derailleur does this thing, where it gets almost horizontal, and then something gives and the chain moves – then the whole process repeats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/kg0squtm89ldfje/VID_20150906_190852.3gp?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video that shows what's happening&lt;/a&gt; – you may want to download the video, otherwise the quality is quite poor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes the bike pretty much unridable – I'm new to bicycling, I'd appreciate any suggestions for how to figure this one out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT 8th Sept 2015&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you guys for helping me.&#xA;I read the link given in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/34228/21361&quot; title=&quot;second answer&quot;&gt;second answer&lt;/a&gt;, and there were a lot words unknown to me, so I focused on common speeds, and according to that, I have a freewheel. I took it apart and cleaned it, according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDdSpIPt5qk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Youtube video&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;It didn't fix my problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I took a couple of photos of my cassete/freewheel (I'm not sure what it is), so maybe you guys can tell me what it is after all: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jemcrto1kxsohyv/AACHlrV1XBv3_gGKh1zCgmMAa?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Photos&lt;/a&gt; (download for full resolution).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21361" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T19:09:34.493" Title="Bike pedals turning when coasting (not a fixed gear)" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34225" CreationDate="2015-09-06T18:16:11.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most likely it is drag in the free hub / freewheel.  You can start with breaking it down and cleaning it and lubricating.  There are videos on YouTube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saw the update to the question.  Does the freewheel spin freely.  Of the bike if you spin it will it make 3+ revolutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is all the brown stuff?  Clean and lube in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T18:04:25.267" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T18:04:25.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34225" CreationDate="2015-09-06T22:58:43.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem to have a problem with the freewheel mechanism sticking. What to do about it will depend on whether the mechanism is part of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a thread-on freewheel, the best option may be simply to replace it, unless you can get it working with just a bit of lubricant / rust remover. This is a good idea if the sprockets are worn out but the wheel is in good condition. Take the whole wheel to the bike shop as they will have the special tool required for the replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a freehub, in which the freewheel mechanism is part of the wheel, then you should put more effort into breaking down and cleaning the existing mechanism. Again, it may be better to let the bike shop do this, as special tools are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20086" LastEditorUserId="20086" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T00:48:47.323" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T00:48:47.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-06T23:14:30.717" Score="4" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;My seat on my bmx turns literally on every bump. If I tap it it'll turn and normally fall off.. The teeth on the seat look to be fairly worn.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uqqOZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;I don't really want to spend any money as it's just a bike for riding dirt jumps. I was thinking of glueing it but is there any other way? Cheers :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jih0t.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dOFkZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17234" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T08:57:54.620" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T13:03:47.417" Title="How do I fix a loose saddle?" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-07T04:38:40.237" Score="4" ViewCount="8227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two questions – which cycle and which bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to travel everyday 20 KM to and fro by office cab. I want to switch to bicycle. &#xA;Could you recommend a good enough bicycle in India at low price? I am planning to buy it on Amazon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also need to carry a backpack (for my lunch box and perhaps a book), I found messenger bag to be good (&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/2446/why-do-cyclists-prefer-messenger-bags-over-backpacks&quot;&gt;Why do cyclists prefer messenger bags over backpacks?&lt;/a&gt;). But since I'm not a regular cyclist, I want to know if 10KM is a short distance or long and any backpack is good enough for this distance. And when should I prefer backpack to messenger bag, because I think the strap of messenger bag would uncomfortable as it may keep shifting while walking or riding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I also may use the bicycle every weekends for going to library which is 15KM far from my home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am ready to buy bicycle and backpack soon after I get an answer. Please help me here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22467" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T05:37:31.357" Title="Which cycle is preferable for daily commute to office in India?" Tags="&lt;bags&gt;&lt;messenger-bags&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-09-08T12:57:26.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34230" CreationDate="2015-09-07T05:12:49.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest that you start with a used bike – perhaps the Indian &lt;a href=&quot;http://craigslist.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;craigslist&lt;/a&gt; would be a place to start. You could observe what people are using for commuter bikes in your area, maybe even talk with some of them, and get some ideas about what sort of bike would be appropriate for you. A used bike will be less expensive and you'll lose less money if you decide to sell it and get another bike once you learn what works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the bag, 10 km isn't too far, if you've got a backpack start with that. You'll probably find that the pack is hot on your back and you may prefer something else – but for starters any bag that isn't too uncomfortable to ride with will get you started. For myself, I don't like having any kind of bag on my back when I ride, so I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/820/what-are-the-pros-and-cons-of-panniers-vs-messenger-bags&quot;&gt;panniers&lt;/a&gt; – but I have the luxury of feeling relatively comfortable leaving them on the bike for short stops. If you want to get off you bike and go into a store or office with minimal fussing with the bike I think a messenger bag or backpack would be a better way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T05:12:49.433" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1500" CreationDate="2015-09-07T05:28:37.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add a few points that have been missed (or that I didn't see)…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Misconception #1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Disc brakes overheat.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This may have been an issue on really old, really crappy calipers but I've had rotors hot enough to burn my arm but I've never &amp;quot;boiled&amp;quot; the brake fluid. If you have tried to bleed your brakes and done so improperly, you introduced air to the brake lines. Air will rapidly expand and create the spongy feeling attributed to &amp;quot;boiling.&amp;quot; If don't trust me, pour some DOT5 in a sauce pan and try to boil it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Misconception #2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Disc brakes are for power.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; Disc brakes (aside from wet performance) have always been about modulation and control. A well bled set of Shimanos have always been able to provide linear control with one finger in any condition. Far better than any caliper, canti or mini-v setup. (Yes I ride TRP Mini-Vs on my trail bike and I love them. Simplicity is king!)&#xA;Keep in mind, old Hayes brakes were the equivalent to a boat anchor and got love for that from the old school downhill crowd since you should either be on your brakes or pedaling your ass off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Truth #1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disc brakes require a more rigid (heavier) wheel build.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carbon wide-section rims might change this for road bikes, but a disc setup requires a lot of spoke tension and many spokes. The braking force is generated at the hub, and the spokes essentially act as a lever. This means it has to be strong in order to transmit the braking force to the tire since the caliper is slightly eccentric to the hub. (It's a Class 3 lever where the fulcrum is your hub.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare this to a rim brake where the braking force is applied directly to the rim/tire complex itself, meaning the wheel only has to contend with the vertical and lateral forces of riding as opposed to the additional torsional force of disc brakes.&#xA;How many radial spoke disc front wheels do you see?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please think of your high school physics class and forget the FUD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be clear, I ride rigid mini-v regardless of road or mountain. I ditched my discs years ago when I got tired of bleeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22468" LastEditorUserId="33084" LastEditDate="2020-08-22T07:13:04.097" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T07:13:04.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34230" CreationDate="2015-09-07T05:37:31.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would really recommend this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/liberty_cx.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/liberty_cx.htm&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;I'm making the assumption that you will not be traveling on pristine road surfaces and will have to negotiate some potholes and curbs .. you want a little more rubber than a MTB but don't want the rolling resistance of those fat tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stick with a backpack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used various timbuk2 messenger bags over the past 20 years for commuting and unless you have them full, they slide around and end up on you tummy ... no good. I'm guessing you're going to be carrying a laptop with you. Get a decent backpack with a laptop sleeve and vented back.. Your back will thank you for the ventilation, especially in India! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22468" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T05:37:31.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34203" CreationDate="2015-09-07T05:46:31.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;sram has always been awesome about providing excellent manuals for their products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/5Pyt9L0OIUi7XDfIWNl65p9qoT3H9ULX2vOahNqzavo/mtime:1330363328/sites/default/files/techdocs/elixir_5_service_manual_rev_b.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/5Pyt9L0OIUi7XDfIWNl65p9qoT3H9ULX2vOahNqzavo/mtime:1330363328/sites/default/files/techdocs/elixir_5_service_manual_rev_b.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a quick rebuild to make sure the seal for the caliper isn't damaged. See page #19 of the above PDF. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should be easy, just be ready to bleed your brakes ... ( a pain with elixers ... sorry!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22468" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T05:46:31.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34201" CreationDate="2015-09-07T05:55:59.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've bent numerous WTB rims back after &quot;pinging&quot; them and creating a flat spot in the bead.. I've also done the dresser drawer trick to straighten a slightly warped rim. Yes the strength of the rim is always diminished. I've never had catastrophic failure but the WTB rims would just refused to be trued after a couple goes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mavic rims would stand up to more punishment but never responded well to brute force. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, &#xA;If you value your safety and a true wheel and if you can't true it with spoke tension, get a new rim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you should learn how to build wheels? it's not hard...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: &#xA;oh yeah .. I forgot. &#xA;2005 whistler, mavic 213, bead lip bent back up and de-warped with a foot against a car tire. Catastrophic failure in a transition after a medium table-top on a-line. stiches required. Don't be cheap with your wheels.. they keep the rubber between you and the road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22468" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T12:48:26.457" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T12:48:26.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2015-09-07T07:51:39.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me be the one to support coaster brakes for a real reason. For a fixed gear bike the pedals can rotate in two directions but you are required to come to a stop. For a coaster brake you can only rotate it one direction. So without loosening my pedal straps in fear of tilting and falling at a red light or anywhere I have the freedom to stand on one pedal while leaning on a light pole, wall, grabbing something, etc and just push back off on green. There you have it, speed is the perk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22469" LastEditorUserId="22469" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T07:58:26.987" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T07:58:26.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2015-09-07T10:04:00.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the practical issues, you should also check the law. In many countries, bicycles must have two independent brakes. A fixie without any additional brakes would be illegal and you risk a fine, even if you do nothing else wrong. It is not even clear if the pedals in a fixie count as a brake system (in Germany, a lawsuit was needed to clarify that this is acceptable as one of the two required brakes, but fixies still need a second, independent brake).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T10:04:00.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33065" CreationDate="2015-09-07T13:01:57.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you should go ahead and replace the crankset.  If you don't, you risk ending up with an unbalanced pair of crank arms (unbalanced by weight, never mind aesthetics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of your current set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrDD4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qrDD4.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222396443/1339/Shimano-RS500-11-Speed-36-and-46t.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222396443/1339/Shimano-RS500-11-Speed-36-and-46t.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's 105 5800: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FjxOx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FjxOx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/shimano-105-fc-5800-s-crankset&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/shimano-105-fc-5800-s-crankset&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while the two look somewhat similar in terms of the crankarm sculpting, the back side of the non-drive arm is certainly not similar.  Your RS500 arm has a &quot;trough&quot; running along its backside, which the 105 5800 arm does not have.  This trough firstly prevents Stages from being likely to support the RS500, and secondly makes it clear that the engineering of the two arms is not that similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T20:05:20.997" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T20:05:20.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35474" CreationDate="2015-09-07T14:06:46.470" Score="5" ViewCount="6023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap old rockrider 5.0 mountain bike  also known under the btwin brand. Bit by bit I'm trying to improve it's performance as a road commuter bike. So far I've changed the rear wheel to a cassette type and upgraded the cassette from 14-something T to an 11-28T and changed tyres from 2&quot; semi-slicks to 1.5&quot; slicks. This much improved it as a road bike but after 2000+ miles since the upgrade I'm noticing I often max the speed out on flats and would like a bit more gearing. 11T is pretty much the best I can do on the rear cassette so I'm considering upgrading the crankset from a 42T to a 48T or bigger if I can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current rear cassette is a Shimano Acera 7 Speed 11/28T Cassette  CS-HG41-7.&#xA;My chain is a KMC Z51.&#xA;The front derailleur is a  Shimano TZ30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that the front derailleur will possibly need to be adjustable to get the chain over the larger 48T chain ring. And possibly the chain may need to be lengthened. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crankset I have in mind is Shimano Alloy / Steel Triple Chainset FCM131 28 /38 /48 teeth ratio suitable for 5, 6, 7, or 8 speed.Is this likely to work ? Can I go bigger? And what compatability considerations do I need to take into account in this upgrade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my first time upgrading a crankset so any advice would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7291" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T11:41:08.843" Title="Upgrading crankset on mountain bike - what are my options" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34375" CreationDate="2015-09-07T14:07:55.250" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Avid Shorty 4 brakes on a cross bike. I would like to use zipp 303 carbon wheels, but I am not sure about brake pads. The brake pads on there now are a combined cartridge and pad set. You cannot replace the pads. Any recommendations on pad holders and brake pads for carbon wheels that would fit well on Avid Shorty 4 brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18661" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T05:21:36.673" Title="Avid Shorty 4 Carbon Brake Pads" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34202" CreationDate="2015-09-07T14:26:05.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are two questions here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1 - Can you have a bike professionally assembled by a bike shop?&lt;/strong&gt;  In my experience (having done this a couple of times) it will typically cost the price of their &quot;pro tune&quot; or equivalent - the service when they break the bike down and put it back together.  $2-300 say.  Bike shops can be a bit sniffy about this, but getting to know your local tech staff will help make things easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 - Is this a good idea?&lt;/strong&gt;  Depends why you're doing it.  If you've got a frame or components you want to put together - say you bought a particular rare steel frame that you want your gruppo from your other bike on...then it can be a great option.  If it's about buying a high-end bike for cheaper - it &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be a good option but check where you're sourcing from. If it's about buying a cheaper (say sub $500) bike for less than you can pay in an LBS - I'd say a crazy false economy.  Instead, buy a second hand bike on CL or similar and save $100 or so to get it checked out by your LBS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly aligned to the point above - if I'm a bike mech, being asked to work on a cool steel frame or a high-end bike from a brand I may never have worked on is pretty cool.  Being asked to spanner a cheap bike from Walmart is going to make me feel pretty crappy about myself and question why I work in the industry.  The level of work I do is likely to be commensurate with how the work makes me feel...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13999" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T14:26:05.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34211" CreationDate="2015-09-07T15:37:56.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago I had a problem where I got flats every 20 miles or so. I fixed then many times with growing frustration until I realized that one of reinforcing wires in the tire had made it's way through the rubber and was poking out just a litte bit. Enough to cause a flat over time, but so little that I took me a long time to find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just an idea in case the other (and more likely) suggestions don't solve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20125" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T16:11:28.937" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T16:11:28.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34211" CreationDate="2015-09-08T01:50:31.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this exact problem.  I spent a whole lot of time removing the inner tube, patching it, etc...   All to no avail. I finally figured out that the side of a drilled spoke access hole was barely visible next to the rim tape.  When I'd inflate the inner tube, it would jut into that hole (depression) and get cut on the side of the drilled hole at the aluminum rim.  The fix was to get better (wider) rim tape, and carefully adjust it so there was a uniform overlap at the spoke access holes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also figured out that is VERY difficult to patch a hole on the inner side of the tube.  You have to use a patch that is at least two times its width (long axis oriented along the rim...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and to help me in troubleshooting, I always label the fill port on the outside side of the tire (In my case I rotate the tire so the pressure rating is next to the fill valve. Then I use a paint pen to add a tick mark on the sidewall that exactly lines up with fill valve.)  This makes the pressure numbers easy to find, AND really help me in troubleshooting a leaky inner tube.  I can inflate the leaky tube in a bucket of water, find the leak, then remove it to line it up with both the rim AND the tire to search out root causes for the leak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit..&#xA;I'm guessing that with certain rim cross sections and geometry, and with a soft rim tape, it might be possible for no sharp edges be exposed with tire and tube is off of the rim, but under high tire pressure, the rim tape may move a bit, exposing the inner tube to the sharp side of a drilled spoke access hole, or the end of a long spoke...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10848" LastEditorUserId="10848" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T00:41:40.917" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T00:41:40.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34229" CreationDate="2015-09-08T02:25:57.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its not exactly clear on what materials are involved. It looks like the top piece was designed with an interference fit, and pressed into the tube. I'm guessing aluminum (or is that zinc?) top piece and steel tube?  It's possible to braze dissimilar materials together, but it takes some significant prep work. ($$$)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's aluminum to aluminum, it would be possible to TIG weld the two together.  You could save some costs by removing ALL the paint from both parts within two inches of the joint before bring them to the welder.  Obviously you'd have to remove the seat from the mount, and the tube from the bike frame first.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you talked to folks who do welding repairs?  It may cost a lot less than you think.  I know of one welder whose motto is &quot;Tricycles and kitchen chairs have always been free...&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10848" LastEditorUserId="38558" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T10:04:46.137" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T10:04:46.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34229" CreationDate="2015-09-08T02:33:38.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slap some JB Weld on that stub and shove it in the post. Let it sit for one day. Smack it around a little and if it doesn't pop off you'll be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T02:33:38.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34214" CreationDate="2015-09-08T02:48:28.633" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just get a used kid trailer and put your dog in there to see if it likes it. I did that with my first dog trailer and my dog liked it so much we didn't upgrade. When we got a second dog I added a wood floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must say though, getting a front-load cargo bike for a big dog would be extremely righteous.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T02:48:28.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34259" CreationDate="2015-09-08T06:19:02.557" Score="2" ViewCount="5365" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've installed a complete new 105 group (this bike is a brand new custom build) on a Civia Hyland frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear wheel has a white industries CLD disc hub for the 11 speed cassettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Civia doesn't have a brazed on cable stop, so I've installed a clamp on cable stop on the down tube for the FD cable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an inline barrel adjuster at the cable stop. The Civia has adjustable dropouts, so I've put them as far back as possible, resulting in an effective chainstay length of around 435mm or so. The wheel is in the correct orientation, I've checked side to side length (wheel edge to downtube) and it lines up with the downtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've installed the FD according to the shimano FD shop manual for this dérailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FD is a clamp on version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have plenty of tension, the FD (5800) shifts great and fast, the problem is rubbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I can actually adjust the FD so that BOTH the small front/large rear and large front/small rear rub on the FD.&lt;/em&gt; I can adjust it so that it rubs at both extremes! Note that I don't mean the cross-chained extremes here, i.e., big/big and small/small, these are ok with the trim positions (I also don't care about these, since I don't use them)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in the small/big combo it rubs on the inner part of the FD cage. When in the big/small combo it rubs on the outer part of the FD cage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure it isn't in a trim position. I'm using a 5800 shifter. I've tried both cable adjuster positions at the pinch bolt. There is slight runout on the big chain ring, but it is pretty small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the small/big (front/rear) combo, the chain rubs on the inner part of the cage. In the big/small combo, the chain rubs on the outer part of the cage. It is like my shifter isn't pulling enough cable on the final trim to big shift, or that the chainrings are actually spaced too far apart (I suppose I should pull the crank off and check the latter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also occurs with both adjustment screws backed all the way out, to ensure that the full shifter cable range is being utilized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chainline is correct at 43.5mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else seen this problem? Do you think I have a bad shifter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20051" LastEditorUserId="20051" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T19:03:46.810" LastActivityDate="2017-10-29T09:39:03.093" Title="What is wrong with my Shimano 105 5800 front derailleur?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34250" CreationDate="2015-09-08T11:00:09.943" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its very unlikely to be the shifter.  Much more likely you've not got it adjusted quite right.  If its rubbing when you have it in the big ring at the front and small ring at the rear there are a couple of things to check: is the FD cable tight? If so then maybe the small screws on the FD that prevent the mech from moving too far need adjusted.  Other obvious questions would be whether the shifter is for a double or triple (dont think you said) and 8/9/10/11 speed, as these would potentially result in a problem if the shifter isnt compatible with the driver train.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21130" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T11:00:09.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34211" CreationDate="2015-09-08T11:44:00.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other posts offer a useful bunch of suggestions and might as well have solved the problem, however let me point out at the tyre size aspect.&#xA;How did you measure your rim? Are you talking about the inner rim width? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at this page for compatibility matters:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.betterbybicycle.com/2014/04/a-simple-guide-on-essentials-of-wheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.betterbybicycle.com/2014/04/a-simple-guide-on-essentials-of-wheels.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;or at the Sheldon Brown page:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you measure correctly and see that your tyre size is adequate for the wheel, then, check your tyre and rim carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your punctures are in the inside or sides of the tube they are not caused by external agents such as nails, pins, glass, etc., but by some barb in the rim or anything in the tyre sticking out into the tube or even a deficient rim tape as mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/34245/8273&quot;&gt;zipzit&lt;/a&gt; post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tyre size is not right, especially if it is undersized, the ill fitting might be causing the inner tube to squeeze itself between rim and tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us know what you have found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22482" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T12:31:26.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34211" CreationDate="2015-09-08T12:14:55.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that proper detective work would identify the cause of this fairly easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it's not possible when you get a flat in the rain at night on the side of the road, but in slightly more convenient conditions you should always take a few minutes for a proper post-mortem examination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This starts before you even take the tire off.  Ideally, use a grease pencil or piece of chalk or some such to mark the valve position on the outside of the tire, and also identify the left vs right side of the tire (and similarly keep track of left vs right side of the rim).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the tube from the wheel (it's not always necessary to completely dismount the tire), &lt;em&gt;mark the tube to identify left vs right side, just as you did with the tire&lt;/em&gt;, and inflate the tube to find the leak.  When you find the leak, &lt;em&gt;observe where it is!!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hole on the inside diameter of the tube, where the tube is sitting adjacent to the spoke nipples, almost always results from a spoke poking through, or a defective rim strip which allows the sharp edges of the nipple to &quot;worry&quot; a hole into the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hole on the side, near where the edge of the rim would be, suggests a rough edge on the rim, a bit of wire poking out from the tire bead, or &quot;snake bite&quot; due to the tube getting squeezed between tire and rim when you hit a curb or other large obstruction.  Note that &quot;snake bite&quot; will often, though not always, result in &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; cuts in the tube, maybe a half-inch apart (hence the name &quot;snake bite&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hole on the outer diameter of the tube, under the tread of the tire, suggests a &quot;normal&quot; puncture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But having found the hole in the tube, you've only completed half of the investigation.  Lay the wheel flat, lay the tire on (if it's been dismounted), and the tube on the tire.  Use the marks you made earlier to position the tube and tire in their original orientations relative to each other and the wheel.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observe again where the hole is (you marked it, right?) and check the same location on the tire and/or rim for any sort of foreign object or defect.  This could be a bit of glass in the tire, a piece of wire, a large hole in the tire (needing a &quot;boot&quot;), a sharp edge on something, etc.  Check both by sight and using your hand to feel -- sometimes you can see a defect you can't feel, and sometimes the defect can be felt but not easily seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also feel around in the tire generally for a loose fragment of glass or some such.  Sometimes a fragment gets in there and moves around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the only problem this procedure won't identify is damage from improper installation.  Such damage is &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; along the sides, and &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; have the appearance of a cut vs a pin-style puncture.  But such damage usually is the result of using screwdrivers or metal &quot;spoons&quot; to service the tire, vs plastic &quot;spoons&quot; or a Quick Stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T12:14:55.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-08T13:45:48.877" Score="4" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a pair of shorts for my commute to work. I live in a country where it rains a lot so I know I'm going to get wet so rather than getting water proof gear I'd prefer to get some quick drying stuff. It's a short commute, I don't use chamois at the moment so it's not something I need to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I look out for if I'm looking at mtb style or baggy shorts that dry quick? Has anyone any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22484" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T12:34:12.950" Title="Quick drying shorts" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-08T14:03:09.203" Score="5" ViewCount="2000" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased an Aosom trailer a while back, and the wheels and tires are truly horrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXdvA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXdvA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Aosom Elite II bike trailer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So much so I only run light loads now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for 20&quot; wheels that are either double wall alloy or vintage steel wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm leaning towards used vintage wheels because they are cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main problem is finding wheels that will fit on the trailer. All wheels that I see already contain a real axle. How do I remove the rear axle from the wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some images of the wheel and axle&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQZS6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JQZS6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The axle assembly is held together by small c clips and retainers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RgYWj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RgYWj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bearing and axle removed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22485" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T22:02:33.620" LastActivityDate="2019-07-20T05:27:11.413" Title="Durable and Affordable 20&quot; wheel and tire combo for Bicycle trailer?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34254" CreationDate="2015-09-08T16:06:30.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While in your question you say you don't use a chamois, I'm going to give some general recommendations for others looking to find quick dry shorts or pants. Since specific recommendations go out of date, I'm not linking to any particular brand or model of shorts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost every pair of mountain biking shorts I have owned would be what I would consider &quot;quick drying&quot;. Baggy mountain bike shorts usually have two main components, the inner padded liner, and the outer shell. Here is what I would look for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Removable liner - If the shorts get so wet that the inner liner is soaked through the outer shell is going to take a long time to dry, and you are going to be uncomfortable. With a removable liner you can swap out to your normal underwear when you get to your destination.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nylon/Polyester shell - For the shell to be quick drying you are going to have to manage the trade off of fabric weight and durability. A lighter but rip-stop type fabric provides a good mix of quick drying and durability against rips and abrasions. Watch for stretchy panels or cotton fabric pockets as these will stay damp much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An option if you need to wear pants is to buy pants from the same kind of nylon material and wear standard or liner-specific bike shorts underneath them. Most major outdoor manufactures like North Face, Ex Oficio, Patagonia, Columbia, etc, make pants and short from quick drying nylon. There are many online bike clothing suppliers like REI, BikeNashbar and Performance Bike that have house brand baggy shorts that would work as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A key thing to avoid if you are really worried about comfort and drying time is pants/shorts with the liner sewn in. With those, if the liner gets soaked you are stuck. If the shell or pants have a removable liner, you can always take the separate pieces off and wring them out to speed drying if they are really wet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if it's a short enough ride, or your backside is ok with it, just use regular nylon pants or shorts like above with your normal underwear. I usually only worry about using padded bike shorts if my ride is going to be longer than 6 mi / 10 km. or so. And make sure your bike has fenders. Those make a HUGE difference in how wet you get in the rain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T16:13:08.810" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T16:13:08.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34254" CreationDate="2015-09-08T17:01:28.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I would do is get a pair of convertible rain pants with zip off leg lowers. They will do a good job of keeping the cold water out. Might lead to a lot of sweat though depending on the temps but can be used for rainy seasons year round. Showers Pass, North Face, and other companies make these styles. I prefer ones that give an above the knee cut rather than below the knee cut for more airflow and less sweating if you ride in warmer temps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had good luck personally with my dwr treated Endura Urban short, though they do wet out eventually, but help a bit over traditional shorts. Being from the somewhat rainy U.K., Endura makes waterproof (MT500 Waterproof shorts) and water resistant shorts (Endura Spray Baggy shorts) as well which may fit your needs better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T17:01:28.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32968" CreationDate="2015-09-08T18:22:13.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was all set to return the Alfine hub to the manufacturer and when I went to take it off I realised the wheel nuts were loose. Tightening the nuts solved the problem. It seems the hub not being fixed in place was causing it to be moved in the wrong direction and shifting to the lowest gear was pulling the mechanism too far inside the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20345" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T18:22:13.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34250" CreationDate="2015-09-08T18:50:17.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been riding the bike and really took a look today at the shifting while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the big/small combo, it looked like it just wasn't pulling enough cable to get it over far enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was riding I had an idea, perhaps the cable position coming from the cable stop had an effect (it should since it is basically a projection of the pull onto the the FD lever arm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cable stop was a clamp on aftermarket one, since the Civia Hyland doesn't have cable stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got home I decided to test it some more. I did two things :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moved the cable stop up and down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rotated the cable stop around the down tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I managed to find a position where it worked! Barely, the tolerances on this thing are tight, but I can get it positioned where it barely doesn't rub now on small/big and on big/small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cable stop was too close to the FD, it needed to be moved down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cable stop was rotated too far away from the FD, it needed to be rotated closer to the centerline of the downtube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fixed the problem, these new FDs have very tight specs, it still barely, barely doesn't rub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least I have a cable stop that I can move around, if the cable stop were in a fixed position I couldn't have fixed this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20051" LastEditorUserId="20051" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T18:59:52.627" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T18:59:52.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-08T19:29:39.127" Score="0" ViewCount="3823" Body="&lt;p&gt;I weigh 175 lbs. and I can put some good torque into my compact double (I'm riding a steel frame). I'm having trouble with my wheel coming out of the dropouts, or becoming misaligned. It's a big problem. Are the wheels to blame? I already took out the dropout adjusters, and tightened the quick releases about as much as humanly possible. What can I do? Wheels are a big investment, I know this because the the wheels are brand new. The axle rests about half way through the drop out. Is this to blame? Maybe the axle isn't long enough? There is knurling on the quick release and on the outside of the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AokZ5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AokZ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dropout with rear derailleur&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YATQ1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YATQ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brand new skewers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21300" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T10:56:53.220" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T01:28:04.700" Title="My rear wheel shifts in the dropouts, what could cause this?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;quick-release&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34266" CreationDate="2015-09-08T20:00:19.580" Score="1" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I connect a classic raleigh dynamo hub to a lamp please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aM2ug.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aM2ug.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22490" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T21:50:34.903" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T22:38:47.403" Title="Connect a classic raleigh dynamo hub to a lamp?" Tags="&lt;dynamo&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34649" CreationDate="2015-09-08T20:20:21.143" Score="3" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old GT i-drive 3.0 from like 2001, it has a Judy Rockshox fork on the front. I imagine its never been serviced (I bought it used) and it's starting to sound like a symphony of rusty trampoline springs. It's so noisy you could hear me coming from a mile away (riding on single-track mountain trails). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what might cause a front suspension to make such racket? Is there anything I can do to make it stop? Like is this a DYI project or is it time to visit the mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20675" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T22:33:07.583" Title="MTB front suspension sounds like rusty trampoline" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-08T20:38:28.260" Score="4" ViewCount="5775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a full suspension XC/AM 29er mountain bike (Gary Fisher Hi-Fi Pro). I'm running a size small frame with an 80mm stem with about 7 degree rise.  Bike seems like a good fit for me. I do run the seat a touch lower than optimal for more room to move on sketchy sections (no dropper post) but still not so much that my legs scream on flats and climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However on a lot of climbs, even ones that are not super steep, my front wheel seems to pop up quite a bit. This makes me have to foot down unexpectedly when the climbs are rooty or rocky. I try to get as close to the bars as possible when I'm digging hard, but I feel like something might be better done with bike fit than bike english.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I try to set up the bike to avoid this?  I switched from a slightly longer 90mm stem due to the feeling I was going to OTB on sketchy terrain, so I don't want to play with lengthening the stem much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I considered:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raising seat (would require a $$$ dropper since I'll need to lower it for sketchy sections).&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lowering stem (I've got about 20mm of spacers to work with below the stem)&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flipping the stem (not sure what this will do to handling on steep descents)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's going to be the most effective way to change the setup to avoid or reduce the lifting effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T04:44:03.880" Title="Front wheel lifting on climbs on my Mountain Bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;stem&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-08T21:55:05.557" Score="0" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read the related post, but my situation is a bit different.  Additional background - I installed new 105 shifters and derailleurs two years ago (~5000 miles) along with chain and cassette.  I also had a 53T chain ring put on in 2013.  All was good.  Had slight hang-up with slack shifting (to higher gears) on rear cogs this spring, so I replaced the cable and sheaths to the rear derailleur.  All was good again.  The bearings in my freewheel started making noise last week.  Which brings me to the present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the rear wheel, cassette and chain on my 30-speed road bike.  The derailleurs shift perfectly and the chain travel when pedalling is smooth and quiet.  However when I stand up or dig in on a hill the chain will skip on the cassette.  It happens on all THREE chain rings in the front and the spectrum of cogs on the cassette.  I thought sure it was a stiff link in the chain, but could not find an issue with it when manually flexing each link.  I tweaked the rear derailleur to the point of shifting cogs in both directions and still have the issue.  Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22494" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T23:40:08.107" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T23:40:08.107" Title="Chain skipping under increased pedal torque" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;skipping&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ClosedDate="2015-09-09T00:44:15.290" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34264" CreationDate="2015-09-08T22:37:22.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you replaced the cassette and chain already, it could be your (front) chainrings that the chain is skipping on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if the teeth are significantly worn (shark tooth shaped) and if the chain rides up the teeth under torque. If thats, the case, then your chainrings may need replacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18983" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T22:37:22.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34261" CreationDate="2015-09-08T22:38:47.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern lights run on 6 volts. The front light is 2.4 watts and the rear is 0.6 for a total generator output of 3.0 watts. The first thing to do would be to see if you have one wire connection or two. If you've only got one then the dynamo is probably built to use the frame of the bicycle as ground. If there are two then one is the hot wire and the other is ground. With older, halogen, bulbs the polarity (which wire on the dynamo you hook to which wire on the light) doesn't matter. Modern LED lights may care, so use a meter to figure out which wire is which – you may also be able to tell by looking carefully. The ground, or negative, wire is usually marked in some fashion. Typical markings are a white stripe or a ridge on the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After sorting out the connections, you need to know the voltage. See if you can find a readable rating on the dynamo, or failing that put a meter on the outputs and spin the wheel – the voltage will probably vary with speed, but it shouldn't be too hard to tell if you're getting something close to 6 volts at normal speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 6 volts then you should be able to hook up a modern light. Just connect the wires (if there are two), paying attention to the polarity. If there is only one wire connect the positive from the light to it and the negative to the frame of the bicycle. If you connect a light and nothing happens, try reversing the wires it may be that you have the polarity backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the output of the dynamo is more than 6 volts, you have a different problem. Too high a voltage will damage the light. So if the voltage seems too high, start by connecting a light that works and spinning the wheel at a slow speed with a volt meter attached. Watch the meter as you spin the wheel. Sometimes a load on the generator will bring down the output voltage. Again at normal riding speed the dynamo output should be right around 6 volts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T22:38:47.403" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34263" CreationDate="2015-09-09T01:11:00.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem on a regular non-suspension bike on the road, if the slope is steep enough.  The main cause is technique, and its exacerbated by your suspensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you push down on the leading pedal the bike wants to rotate the other way, like you're lifting the handlebars and pulling a wheelie.  Your suspension is probably acting as an amplifier for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads to decreased traction on the front wheel, so turning becomes interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main Solution is to pedal more steadily in a circle, rather than stomping down on the foremost pedal.&#xA;To a lesser extent, you can also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lock out the front suspension, or dial it down a bit in bounciness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move your body weight forward on the saddle, or get off the saddle completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove weighty things from the rear of the bike - I found moving my full water bottle to the forward bottle cage had a noticeable impact.  Consider moving toolkits etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T04:44:03.880" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T04:44:03.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29119" CreationDate="2015-09-09T01:27:08.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons for bad shifting to happen:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. cable is rusted or dirty or bent inside the housing. - need cable replace&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. housing is damaged or low quality. - need to replace housing&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. different number of gears on the shifter and the cogs like @Chris wrote. (doesn't apply if you have 6-7-8 gears).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4. cassette is worn out. - need to replace cogs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5. chain stretched or not the right length.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;6. derailleur is weak and shakes.- should replace it&lt;br&gt;&#xA;7. derailleur or it's hanger is bent. - commonly hanger can be repaired. the derailleur is harder to repair.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;8. axle is bent and the cassette is shakes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;9. cable and derailleur aren't adjusted properly as @PeTeH wrote. - you can find on youtube videos how to adjust it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common are 1, 4, 7, 6.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The 3, 6, 7, 8 are easy to see - the derailleur must be in strait line with the cogs. You can also easily check for cable condition. Chain and housing sometimes need some expert to check. Cassette condition you probably will not identify, but in LBS they will easily tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T01:27:08.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34254" CreationDate="2015-09-09T01:39:09.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;8 km is about my daily commute one way, and it is known to rain here in the Pacific Northwest of the United States from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wear my work clothes when I ride, but my commute isn't very strenuous. One very modest hill in the morning to work, and a bit more challenging hill in the afternoon from work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll usually wear shorts until late October or early November, and working in IT I can get by with fairly casual attire. For the rain, I have rainpants. As others have said, even the best quick drying shorts are going to take a while to dry if they are wet. If it's only misting outside, I don't put on the rainpants. A little light moisture on the surface of even cotton blend shorts will dry fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T01:39:09.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34263" CreationDate="2015-09-09T01:42:24.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Criggie says this is all about technique. You are trying to counter balance keeping weight over the rear wheel so you can maintain traction and weight over the front of the bike to maintain steering control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main technique you want to use is the Chest to Nose technique where you move forward on the saddle while at the same time leaning forward over the front bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTBtips has a short video on youtube demonstrating this. &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/WkS8nzvqfPA?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not the most comfortable riding position on the bike but if you combine this with spinning up those hills instead of stomping up them as Criggie suggests you'll find your climbing will improve quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other suggestion: When you are out on a ride and there are any more experienced rider arounds, especially any who race, ask one of them to give you a quick critique of your riding. They may be able to point out additional areas of improvement in your riding technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T01:42:24.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34272" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T04:12:32.033" Score="4" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;The casing of my back tire appears to be damaged. There is one spot where it is torn, and the tire bulges out when the it is inflated. I want to know what causes this so that I don't do the same thing to my new tires. Also, if there is a way to fix this, I'd like to know how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22498" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T04:45:42.420" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T01:35:35.050" Title="Tire casing appears damaged" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34260" CreationDate="2015-09-09T07:00:07.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the alignment of dropouts, and if QR mates with dropout with full surface on both sides. Maybe you could use marker or some kind of fresh ink, paint the dropout, install everything and then observe if paint transfer was uniform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have spare wheel (or you can borrow one) ideally without QR try installing it and see if problem persists. If the problem persists, than the issue is on the frame side, or in the way you are tightening. Otherwise, it is on the QR side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I have to ask this, are you sure you are installing and tightening QR right way? (finger tighten, and then use lever on QR to get a good tight)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T07:00:07.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T08:11:35.677" Score="2" ViewCount="2158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Apollo Envoy hybrid bicycle. I'm planning on converting it to a road bicycle. I will buy a stem adaptor, stem, and new dropped handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that really confuses me is the gear shifter and brake levers. It seems like most shifters are made for 10-speed bicycles. I can't seem to find anything about 18-speed gear shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I'm on a budget, are there any good 18-speed gear shifters for drop handlebars? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any input would be very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22501" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-09T11:44:59.437" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T07:58:03.563" Title="Any good 18 speed gear shifters for drop handlebars?" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34272" CreationDate="2015-09-09T08:22:15.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be several reasons including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;under inflating your tires for longer period of time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;damaging your casing with some sharp object when driving, or when installing tire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;manufacturing defect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or combination of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5563" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T08:22:15.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34254" CreationDate="2015-09-09T08:50:12.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than sitting around in wet kit, you should get changed (in the toilets if necessary), even assuming that wet cycling gear fits your dress code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gym/football type shorts will dry during the day if you have somewhere to spread them out (under your desk for example).  They're also cheap. Look for fairly thin synthetic fabric.  As @andy256 says in a comment, rolling them in a towel will help as well.  I've got some lined MTB shorts that are quite nice for riding in but inevitably stay wet longer -- they're quick drying fabric but 2 layers of it.  Don't forget whatever you're wearing underneath -- take spares (and socks).  I recommend looking out for ones with pockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a long ride, you don't need cycling-specific stuff. In warm weather I've found that riding in rain-proof gear you can get almost as wet as without it from sweat plus the rain that sneaks in.  Obviously when it gets cold riding in a single layer of wet stuff isn't a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found gym shorts absolutely fine for 15km each way every day even in the wet, so long as it's warm enough. But then I've also ridden 25km each way in hiking gear with no trouble -- I must be lucky with my saddle fit.  On a road/touring bike the saddle may be less forgiving of seams and fit than on my hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T08:50:12.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31094" CreationDate="2015-09-09T10:45:12.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there are not any male-to-female &quot;extension&quot; wires available for the Shimano Di2 E-Tube system.  You can use a junction as you said, or you can use the two-port ANT module.  You could also modify an E-Tube wire to lengthen it yourself, if you are handy with a soldering iron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T10:45:12.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T12:03:19.817" Score="1" ViewCount="1580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just curious, how much is a frame in a entry level road bicycle worth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In total, what is the cost of a frame per unit in a bicycle built using i.e. a Shimano Sora groupset, white-labelled brakes rims, tubes and tires?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22504" LastEditorUserId="22504" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T08:56:33.563" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T08:56:33.563" Title="How much is a mass production aluminium road bike frame worth?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;aluminum&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-09-15T12:33:35.663" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34272" CreationDate="2015-09-09T12:31:25.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be caused by a number of things. Something catastrophic can occur, like taking a corner on an under inflated tire and rolling the tire off the rim and sliding down the road on the side of the tire, or something small which then gets worse over time like a pinch flat or even a manufacturing defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event of the small issue (before the tube bulges out) you can prevent the problem from worsening by sewing it up with dental floss (I prefer cinnamon). I've had this technique hold on some Gatorskins for a few months, but at &gt;100 PSI it's only a matter of time before some tube starts to show and then bulge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most popular solution is to use a boot. People like to use dollar bills as boots. Just lay the bill inside the tire between the tube and tire. When you inflate you should get no bulge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastEditorUserId="19730" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T00:32:06.577" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T00:32:06.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34254" CreationDate="2015-09-09T12:34:12.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get shorts and underwear that are made of polyester, spandex, rayon, etc. &lt;strong&gt;No cotton&lt;/strong&gt;. Obviously the thinner the better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T12:34:12.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34284" CreationDate="2015-09-09T14:46:48.817" Score="8" ViewCount="5570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gotten back into riding fairly recently. I used to ride a bicycle a lot when I was younger - the single-speed, steel-frame deal with coaster brakes. I'm now riding a Fuji hybrid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was younger, standing to pedal was the thing to do. However, now when I do it, I can't really sustain it for more than four seconds, literally; my quads ache and I feel as though I have absolutely no endurance for this. This happens not only on hills, but on flat as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sitting to pedal has been alright for the most part. I'm able to climb hills in low gear (even though I'm really not good at it yet) and I can pedal well on flat ground. Standing is just a different story, as it takes it out of me so incredibly quickly that it's an almost useless technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing something wrong? Might I need to adjust my handlebars to be higher or something? (My saddle is at a correct height, but perhaps when I stand, I'm having to lean too far forward to keep my hands on the bars?) Or is this common and it's something I'll just need to get over with practice? Don't get me wrong - I know that these things do come with time - but it doesn't seem to make sense that I get tired standing to pedal even on flat ground...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22506" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T12:01:43.863" Title="Standing to pedal is extremely tiring - should it be this difficult?" Tags="&lt;riding-position&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34282" CreationDate="2015-09-09T15:54:08.120" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Standing up on a bike, especially when you lack fitness, is a good way to go &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anaerobic_glycolysis&quot;&gt;anaerobic&lt;/a&gt;.&quot; Put simply, that means your body is working so hard, it can't get enough oxygen. You can only do that for a short amount of time, which for most people is in the range of 10-30 seconds. Then the lactic acid build up in your muscles becomes too painful and you are forced to ease up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is simple. You need more strength and fitness. If you like to ride fast and/or climb hills, you can't avoid the anaerobic zone completely, but you can move it a little farther away by getting good fitness. Keep riding, and keep riding hills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20494" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T15:54:08.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T16:37:25.980" Score="14" ViewCount="76589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to get my first road bike as I have been putting a lot of miles into my hybrid. Did a century last Sunday. Altogether I have done around 5k miles on my trek hybrid. So I thought getting a road bike isn't too bad an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went to a LBS and the mechanic told me it is better to get a Shimano 105 group set because it is a lot better than Claris. He mentioned how the transmission would be smoother. I'm NOT planning to buy a bunch of road bikes in future so in most cases this will be my only road bike even though I would keep my hybrid for my commute to work. &#xA;So do you think it is better to get 105 over claris? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a newbie in to road biking  would it make a big difference?&#xA;After doing a bit of research bikes with Shimano 105 is kinda expensive and getting a carbon bike with 105 is pretty much on the similar price range to getting the aluminum bike with 105.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm wondering whether I should get a carbon bike with Shimano 105 or an aluminum bike with 105 or should I get just a cheaper one with Shimano Claris? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let me know if I should be looking into some other groupset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13390" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T08:49:19.537" LastActivityDate="2019-01-18T11:56:55.070" Title="Shimano Claris vs 105?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;groupsets&gt;&lt;upgrade-or-new-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34285" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:24:40.580" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on your budget. Shimano 105 is quite a bit better than Claris.  Claris uses an 8 speed cassette while 105 uses an 11 speed cassette. This means that 105 will have smaller gaps between the gears if both bikes have the same gear range.  There are 2 levels between Claris and 105. They are Sora (9 speed cassette ) and Tiagra (10 speed cassette).  You should look at all those different groupsets to determine which one fits your performance and budget needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's another way to get the small gaps of a 105, and also not spend so much money on a bike. Get a Claris with a triple chainset in the front. Then, get a 12-23 cassette. This will give you a bike with really small gaps between the gears, but it will also give you enough range due to the triple cranket. This of course comes at an increased weight penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T17:24:40.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34291" CreationDate="2015-09-09T18:42:25.127" Score="8" ViewCount="1438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm based in Oxford and I have a classic Triumph steel cruising bike. I am a complete amateur when it comes to paintwork and I wanted to ask the community here a few quick questions if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pictures I have attached are probably the most useful but I will explain what I think is going on with the bike too. There is lots of patchy paint loss dotted all over the bike with exposed steel that I would like to protect and repaint if needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question is... What are my options to try and prolong the life of this frame? I ideally want to preserve the Triumph logos too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;James&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkfVZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkfVZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gyF6b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gyF6b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19917" LastActivityDate="2018-06-03T02:17:28.463" Title="Bike repainting options" Tags="&lt;steel&gt;&lt;paintjob&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34282" CreationDate="2015-09-09T19:40:59.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried it on other bikes? I own one bike on which I can not really ride standing up while I can do it on others, just because of the position (and size) of the handle bars and the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, building up muscles will help, but some bikes are just not build for standing up. If it is really 4 seconds max, I would say that you will not find it easy to ride standing up on this bike, not even when you have build up your muscles. And sometimes it is the combination of rider and bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18917" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T19:40:59.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34349" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:19:06.933" Score="2" ViewCount="2184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a KALLOY UNO HB-005 580 mm handlebar and a shifter with brake combination, &lt;a href=&quot;http://vid.artscyclery.com/pdf/Shimano%20MTB/Shimano%20MTB%20Shifters/Shimano%20Altus%20SL-M310%20Front%20Shifter%203sp%20User%20Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimano Alivio ST-M310&lt;/a&gt;. I have a Sora derailleur and crank set. I got as a gift a bullhorn Origin8 Bully Bullhorn 6061-T6 Handlebar 400mm wide 31.8mm clamp. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the shifter's mounting ring is not enough wide to get on the bullhorn at all, I can't imagine how to put on it and if I manage the first centimeters, than there is a corner. How can I fit the shifter/brake on the new bullhorn or do I have to change the shifter system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If only the mounting ring can be changed I would be happy. I opened the sifter but the bolt which holds together the brake lever and shifter is blocked mechanically (doable). Is there another brake lever that has a wider ring and can be replaced with the current one, so I can keep the shifter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I measured the old and new set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;KALLOY - 22.20[mm] &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Origin8 - 23.88[mm] &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shimano Alivio - 22.38[mm]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would  it be a structural integrity problem, if I grind 1-2mm of the inner wall of the mounting ring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22509" LastEditorUserId="22509" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T10:47:12.287" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T00:01:06.867" Title="Shifters/brakes won't fit on bullhorn bars" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34287" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:24:26.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try to rub down the affected areas trying to keep to the smallest possible area. Then touch the area up with a rust inhibiting paint. Then go over that with as close a matching paint colour as the bike. Just take it slow and careful. You should mask off all the surrounding parts of the bike before starting to paint as well. I'd start with the least visible rust spot. You might need to go over all this a few times to get it right. Oh and what about trying this out on an old bike you don't mind getting it wrong on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22490" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T21:24:26.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-09T21:51:22.220" Score="2" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone advise on the best way to motorise a bicycle apart from electric motors? I think I would like to fit a small two stroke engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22490" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2021-04-12T11:53:05.757" LastActivityDate="2021-04-12T11:53:05.757" Title="Motorising a bicycle." Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;motor&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34292" CreationDate="2015-09-09T23:05:59.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a petrol kit off ebay and follow the instructions.   At that point you fall in a gap between cyclists and bikers, where neither group wants to know about you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or buy a new bike designed as an ebike.   Or buy a nifty-50 scooter/step through motorbike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An electric assist motor is a better idea, the kits cost about the same.  Main difference is you're consuming power to charge, instead of burning petrol+oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric is much quieter too, whereas motorised bicycles are incredibly loud because of the small mufflers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Electric kits tend to replace your front wheel, and have a battery bag that hangs on the frame or goes on a rear carrier, or inside a pannier or basket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good thing about electric is you're still a cyclist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my adventures with such a kit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.electric-bike-kit-forum.com/post2249.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.electric-bike-kit-forum.com/post2249.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T23:05:59.260" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34282" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:06:43.970" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pedaling while standing always takes more effort; we do it when we need the extra boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you were &lt;em&gt;younger&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;rid[ing] a bicycle a lot&lt;/em&gt;, you were also fitter. I'm guessing you have had a sedentary job for a while, so now your whole system needs to build up again. This is, unfortunately in our modern world, &lt;strong&gt;normal&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any strength / fitness program, take it slowly. It's easy to cause injuries by being over-enthusiastic. So ride regularly, &lt;em&gt;gradually&lt;/em&gt; increasing the distances. Ride while standing from time to time,  &lt;em&gt;gradually&lt;/em&gt; increasing the number of pedal strokes or distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are feeling that you have &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; strength and fitness, you can look into &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interval_training&quot;&gt;interval training&lt;/a&gt;, or other training methods. You can also look at our &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/training&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;training&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;training&lt;/a&gt; questions for more guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T11:02:20.227" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T11:02:20.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13280" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:23:24.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wear rain pants - that's my opinion. I lived in Seattle and had my car stolen. For a fall/winter/spring I commuted to work from Capitol Hill to Bellevue - a nice downhill and uphill both ways with a short bus ride across the 520 bridge (no bike lane, so had to take the bus for that part). So I experienced lots of rain, lots of uphill huffing and puffing and sweating. When it rained, which it did A LOT, I wore a rain jacket, rain pants and booties. Sitting on the bus got me sweaty as all get out, so it was nice to take off my cap and jacket to breath a bit. But I would keep the rain pants on and I wore my work pants (just jeans) underneath. When I got to work I had a small towel I used to wipe down quick before I took off all my rain gear and pack away. I'd change my tshirt, but my jeans were dry (very very slightly damp from the heat/condensation of exercise) and I was ready to go to work without needing to go someplace private and change into different clothes altogether. So, just saying, rain pants help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22512" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T00:23:24.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34298" CreationDate="2015-09-10T04:55:02.097" Score="4" ViewCount="1466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep reading that the drop line for 25mm tires is greater. Obviously the 25mm tires have more volume. Do they have fewer pinch flats? Are they more comfortable, because they create less vibration? What about wet conditions? Why should I give up a 23mm tire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21300" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T21:26:14.847" Title="What is ideal for long distance road bike rides 23mm or 25mm tires?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34297" CreationDate="2015-09-10T05:23:58.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 25mm tyre can be run at a lower pressure with the same rolling resistance, thus giving you a slightly more comfortable ride, and slightly better grip in wet conditions or on a dirty surface.  If you take that reduction in pressure too far, you'll get more pinch flats, but you'll be very comfortable just before you stop to fix that flat. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you inflate to the appropriate pressure then you'll get a better ride, better grip, with minimal difference in rolling resistance - the downside being weight, and possibly an increase in frontal area causing a little more drag.    So why don't the pro teams use a 25mm if there are all those advantages?  There's some indication that they have been starting to over the last few years: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/latest-news/are-wider-tyres-really-faster-160403&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/latest-news/are-wider-tyres-really-faster-160403&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/learn/25-vs-23&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.competitivecyclist.com/learn/25-vs-23&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/05/news/giro-tech-rise-of-the-25c-tire_218011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/05/news/giro-tech-rise-of-the-25c-tire_218011&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2014/04/tyre-trends-what-the-teams-are-using-for-paris-roubaix/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2014/04/tyre-trends-what-the-teams-are-using-for-paris-roubaix/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the right pressure? Here's how to work it out: a 25mm tyre is about 8.7% wider than a 23mm, so round that to 10% for easier calculations which means that you can run about 10% less air pressure in a 25mm as compared to a 23mm.  E.g. if you typically run a 23mm at 100PSI, then run your 25mm at 90PSI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note - I have &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; had a pinch flat in a road tyre in 15 years of riding road bikes, so if that is your concern, the you may be running your tyres at too low pressure for your weight (or your local roads are much rougher than mine).  The thing about the weight is not meant to be an insult - I'm just reminding you that your tyre pressure needs to be in proportion with the weight that's being supported: made up of your bike, you, and your luggage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're riding on gravel/dirt often, consider a 28mm - but first check that it will fit in your frame (1 of my bikes can fit a 28mm on the front, but only a 25mm on the back - which is a bit annoying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1161" LastEditorUserId="1161" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T21:26:14.847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T21:26:14.847" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T05:50:05.813" Score="2" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Schwinn Searcher Sport 2011 Hybrid Bike, with a damaged seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, I require a 26.8mm seat post with suspension. In India, I have searched, but I am not able to find a suitable seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I obtain a suitable seat post?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22516" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T08:32:27.037" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T11:59:42.727" Title="Required 26.8mm diameter Seat Post" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;&lt;seatpost&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34290" CreationDate="2015-09-10T06:12:38.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously you have some incompatible parts.  Your old bar is 25.4 mm and your new is 31.8mm.  I'm not familiar with the shifters you have, and it doesn't appear Shimano has the specs for them on their site anymore.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend visiting your LBS, bring your old and new bar, tell them what you want to do and see what they recommend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22494" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T06:12:38.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34285" CreationDate="2015-09-10T06:39:25.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I upgraded my road bike from Tiagra to 105 a couple of years ago and noticed a difference, so I imagine you would notice a larger difference between Claris and 105.  Crisper shifting in the 105. 105 is worth the $ in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frame material is a rider preference.  Some are biased against carbon because failure mode is catastrophic.  Carbon frames have come a long way since Kestrel started with them in the 80s and 90s.  You need to decide that for yourself.  Carbon will be lighter which is an advantage regardless of how you ride.  Racing or not, you will accelerate faster and have an easier go in climbing, which can improve your finishing place or just make it easier to keep up with the leaders in weekend group rides.  It can also be a more forgiving ride than Aluminum.  Some riders are quite biased against Aluminum due to stiff/rough ride of many Aluminum frames.  Carbon can also be stiff as h*ll, like my tri bike, but that is by design in a tri bike.  Most carbon road bike frames are designed for lateral stiffness and vertical compliance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others mentioned, you can often find great deals on used bikes so this is worth investigating.  My first road bike came from Craigslist, got a steal of a deal as it only had 3 functioning gears (out of 27).  $10 worth of cables and sheaths and I had a great bike.  Your LBS may have used bikes as well.  Ebay is another source, although you likely can't ride before you buy unless you happen to find a local offering.  There are also online bike dealers (not your typical LBS brands), but you can usually find a great deal on nicely equipped bikes.  I know I've seen Ultegra-carbon road bikes for around $1500 on bikesdirect.com.  Some assembly required, but assuming you can use a wrench it's not too bad, or your LBS will usually assemble for you for &amp;lt; $100.  Some say that's crappy for the LBS, but I suspect their happy to get the $100 vs nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!  Let us know what you decide.  :-D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22494" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T06:39:25.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34306" CreationDate="2015-09-10T06:50:48.857" Score="4" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a bike with such a mudguard the other day. It was mounted on the seat tube and stuck straight out horizontally, between the two seat stays, over the brake and then over the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I liked the mount point because it means that the top of the seat tube is protected from crud, unlike seat post mounted mudguards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I can buy such a mudguard? Or who makes one like it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1560" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T07:46:33.883" Title="A long, straight, stiff mudguard?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;fenders&gt;&lt;rain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34260" CreationDate="2015-09-10T06:57:51.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with my brand-new tri bike.  My issue was it had adjustable dropouts so you could snug the tire (depending on tire of size) right up to the frame for maximum aerodynamics.  In my situation, the anodize plating on the dropouts was so smooth, as was the carbon finish on the frame, there just wasn't enough friction to keep the dropouts from moving horizontally.  We ended up sanding off the plating on the dropouts and putting carbon grit in between the dropouts and frame, which has worked beautifully for two years now, including adjustments for different tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at your pictures and assuming you don't have an axel issue, my only suggestions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure dropouts and QR nuts are clean and free of grease.  Use some citrus cleaner or equivalent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try roughing up the outsides of dropouts with a low-grit sand paper?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22494" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T06:57:51.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34302" CreationDate="2015-09-10T07:04:37.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just spent some time looking online and found quite a few results on Amazon, Ebay, (you could also try wiggle, which is kind of like an online surplus shop.) unfortunately without seeing a picture of exactly what you saw, I can only paint a vague picture of what you're talking about. But any of those websites would be a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, just to throw the idea out there, considering the kind of basic function that this thing does, you could also research any DIY projects people have done where they made their own mudguards out of stuff they already had. It might look weird,  it if you put your time into it you could make something practical and easy on the eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T07:04:37.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34299" CreationDate="2015-09-10T07:09:36.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest any site like Amazon, EBay, or craigslist even. I just skimmed through and Amazon, as well as EBay have a good assortment of seat posts in that size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want an actual bike shop website, try using Wiggle. It is something of a surplus store, so they have a pretty decent selection at decent prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your seat post size seems to be fairly common, so I don't think you should have any problems finding something that works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21035" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T07:09:36.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34302" CreationDate="2015-09-10T07:14:16.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think of three kind of mud guards that fit the description: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.designboom.com/design/musguard-rollable-bike-fender/&quot;&gt;musguard&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gizmag.com/quickfix-foldnfix-bicycle-mudguards/20348/&quot;&gt;quickfix&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://velolifestyle.com/fenders/wit&quot;&gt;fender bender&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An other solution is the &lt;strong&gt;ass saver&lt;/strong&gt;, but this is not what you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22509" LastEditorUserId="19594" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T07:46:33.883" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T07:46:33.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34299" CreationDate="2015-09-10T10:58:17.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fast look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bike-components.de/en/Cane-Creek/Thudbuster-LT-Sattelstuetze-400-mm-p7468/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bikecomponents&lt;/a&gt;. Look at the &lt;strong&gt;SUSPENSION SEATPOST&lt;/strong&gt; section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22509" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T10:58:17.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34287" CreationDate="2015-09-10T11:09:22.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have only small areas to deal with as the image shows, I would suggest first to clean the rust with a soft metal sponge (see image  below) and than cover the paint-less metal spots with transparent nail polish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like this, you can keep the original color and the vintage look, but kept protected from corrosion. Google for post like &lt;a href=&quot;https://girlsbikingtowork.wordpress.com/2012/07/28/touch-up-your-chipped-bike-frame-with-nail-polish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YpAJNm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YpAJNm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22509" LastEditorUserId="36322" LastEditDate="2018-06-03T02:17:28.463" LastActivityDate="2018-06-03T02:17:28.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34313" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:16:02.877" Score="3" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like a bike route going from Camas, WA to Onalaska, WA. I would like something that is the shortest distance with as few streets and turns as possible. Both the routes I find at Google Maps and Mapquest have about 4 dozen different roads. I am not kidding, see for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like to print this out in such a way that I can mark each 5 mile point. I want to know when I have hit 5 miles, then 10, then 15, all the way up to 90. Finally I would like to avoid the freeway as much as possible, especially since it is probably not legal for me to travel on parts of it via bicycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a printed map I should buy for this instead, please provide the details, including where I can buy it online, and if it is not available to buy online, where I can buy it in the Vancouver, Washington area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21061" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T07:41:13.503" Title="Are there any online bike route planning options that allow 5-10 mile incriments?" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34310" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:48:33.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, I don't think there is a tool right now that does exactly what you want, but you can get close. It sounds like you tried Google Maps, and hopefully when you did you clicked on the Bike Route option to see the suggested route. That is not going to minimize the different roads and turns because it is optimized for safer, lower-speed roads. One nice thing about the Google Maps bike route tool is that the printable directions/details are formatted very much like the route tip sheets I make for myself when going for longer rides in new areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use &lt;a href=&quot;http://veloroutes.org/&quot;&gt;veloroutes.com&lt;/a&gt; to create your own routes, see elevation profiles, export to google earth and create the same google maps navigation directions mentioned above. You can also search veloroutes.com by location to see if anyone has a route like yours. A search for Camus turned up &lt;a href=&quot;http://veloroutes.org/bikemaps/?route=15638&quot;&gt;this route&lt;/a&gt; for instance (not quite what you are looking for but it give you an idea of what you can generate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your specific starting point and destination you may want to check with your local bike shops for any Washington specific route maps or publications. The sports or travel sections of your local library or bookstore are another good place to look for books or maps that have long-distance cycling routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are in luck for part of your route though - The section from just north of Toledo to a little west of Longview sits on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes-and-maps/adventure-cycling-route-network/pacific-coast/&quot;&gt;Adventure Cycling Pacific Coast Trail&lt;/a&gt;. Adventure Cycling routes and maps are some of the best I have encountered. The maps can be a bit pricey, but are well worth it for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes-and-maps/adventure-cycling-route-network/map-features/&quot;&gt;their detail&lt;/a&gt;. They typically show convenience stores, bike shops and rest/camping areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes-and-maps/adventure-cycling-route-network/&quot;&gt;Adventure Cycling Routes&lt;/a&gt; in Washington and all over the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="213" LastEditorUserId="213" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T13:54:26.073" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T13:54:26.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:19:06.823" Score="0" ViewCount="2964" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this Lemond frame online. I have an opportunity to get some components for it before I actually receive the frame. Hoping to get more info on the bike (model/year) in the hope of getting some kind of spec sheet. Any help is appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tSHvr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tSHvr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22521" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T22:55:07.357" Title="Lemond Frame - what model/year?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-06-13T12:56:30.470" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34310" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:26:10.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Gary said, finding something that does exactly what you want may be difficult. However, I like to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ridewithgps.com&lt;/a&gt; to plan my routes. It's optimized for cycling routes (so keeps you off freeways and can use bike paths if available) and you can have distance markers and points of interest markers along the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only use the basic plan. Their paid plans may have some extra tools that might be useful for your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example &lt;a href=&quot;http://ridewithgps.com/routes/10309620&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Camas to Onalaska&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10538" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T15:26:10.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:47:32.680" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;ive done 90 miles in one day as my biggest  rides and i could say eating like a stake 30 minutes before you ride helps with like a Gatorade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22523" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T15:47:32.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34312" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:55:46.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a Chambery.  You can find manuals on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vintage-trek.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vintage-trek.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catalog for 2000 shows the Chambery with a threadless fork.  Yours appears to be threaded so I would guess late 90s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21401" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T15:55:46.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5968" CreationDate="2015-09-10T17:55:13.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several months ago I decided to use my iPhone 6 as my cycling computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a bit of research I opted for the Topeak weather resistant ride case.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got caught in my first rainfall last week.  The case was soaked but the phone bone dry ... what a relief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The phone GPS provides speed and distance and time data, and I use the WAHOO RPM as a cadence sensor and Mio Fuse as a heart rate sensor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these items provide Bluetooth feedback and work seamlessly with the iPhone using both Cyclemeter and Strava. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compare speed and distance to my friends dedicated cycle computer and the numbers are very close.  It a great setup and I can use the Mio fuse for daily activity tracking as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22526" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T21:50:46.390" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T21:50:46.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:11:34.513" Score="5" ViewCount="3508" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a method to tell the life of a tire? How can you tell if a tire is going to wear down faster than another tire? I assume puncture resistant tires wear out slowly, but I'm really curious whether I put high PSI in my tire there will be significant difference. Will high PSI raise/lower the lifespan of my tire ceteris paribus (terrain, material being the same)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21300" LastEditorUserId="21300" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T18:26:04.880" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T21:05:48.740" Title="Does high PSI or low PSI affect the life of a tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34321" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:16:35.730" Score="4" ViewCount="5987" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume it is common sense you should run a lower pressure in the front wheel versus the back. I weigh 175 lbs (79kg), I have tires with max 120 PSI (8.3 bar), what PSI should I run in the front and the back tire on my road bike? I use a 700x25 tire (25-622 ISO/ETRTO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21300" LastEditorUserId="34315" LastEditDate="2018-06-18T10:20:30.117" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T11:10:14.203" Title="What pressure should I run? Front versus the back wheel?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34320" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:30:00.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the terrain you ride on, what you find comfortable and so on, so you need to play with tire pressures to figure out what fits you. Several companies (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/inflation_pressure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe&lt;/a&gt;) give recommendations, but they're only good to start -- you need to play with tire pressures to find whats good for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number written on the sidewall of the tire is generally useless. For most riders, a correct pressure is significantly lower than whats written on the tire sidewall, and the tire sidewall rating does not take into account the strength of the rim (wheel) you're running, so blindly obeying it can be hazardous since the rim may take damage if you hit a bump at max pressure. A correctly inflated tire absorbs road hazards appropriately and avoids pinch flats while not having too much rolling resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule of thumb&lt;/a&gt; is that the rear tire is about 10% higher pressure than the front tire. But you're completely free to ignore this and find something that's comfortable for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T06:21:23.910" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T06:21:23.910" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34319" CreationDate="2015-09-10T18:37:33.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to operate the tire in the pressure range on the tires. Check the air pressure regularly.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nominally if you are 180 lb or more then high number.  And 140 lb or less the low number.  In between then in between.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher pressure maybe a longer life but still stay in the range.  If you weigh 140 lb then not worth a higher pressure for a harsher ride to maybe get a few more miles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Race tires naturally have the shortest life.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A soft rubber tire will wear faster but have better traction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hard rubber tire will last longer but also poor traction and a harsh ride.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And consider $ / mile.  You can buy a $50 tire that is probably not going to last twice as long as a $25 tire.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T21:05:48.740" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T21:05:48.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T19:05:32.940" Score="0" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find new wheels for my trek 1.1, and I can't find the spacing for the hubs. The wheels I'm looking at have a front spacing of 100mm, and a back spacing of 130mm. Will these fit on my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22528" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T19:46:46.807" Title="What is the spacing for trek 1.1?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34323" CreationDate="2015-09-10T19:46:46.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Road front hubs are 100 mm and 8-10 speed rear hubs are 130 mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the Trek 1.1, it's always been spec'd with a 8 speed rear hub, so those wheels should fit on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T19:46:46.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34326" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-10T20:19:43.220" Score="1" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought a Fox Float X 2014 for my 2015 Giant Trance. It fits my Trance perfect but I may be upgrading to a 2015 Giant Reign. I was thinking would my shock fit onto a reign? The size of mine is 200x57 (7.825&quot; x 2.25&quot;). Does anyone know the size of a reign?&#xA;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17234" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T20:19:43.220" Title="Giant Reign shock travel?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shocks&gt;&lt;giant&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34319" CreationDate="2015-09-10T20:59:52.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The PSI in a tyre definitely affects the lifetime of the tyre.&#xA; You have to check you tyre pressure regularly and make sure that you keep it pumped at the correct level. It is recommended that you pump up your tyres every 2 weeks to keep them in tip-top condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll definitely have to look at what pressures you can use as Road tyres can withstand 125 or even 145 psi on tyres with inner tubes while tubular can go up to and over 300 psi. On the other hand mountain bikes may only withstand up to 65 psi or even lees. So make sure that you check your limits and on road bike, try not to go below 100 psi as that's the minimum pressure that the beads need to hold on to the rim of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good idea to use an online calculator to check what pressure you should use with your wheels and your weight as well as the terrain that you ride, you can also get Apps for that like the Vittoria Tyre Pressure Calculator for Android.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22530" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T20:59:52.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34272" CreationDate="2015-09-11T01:35:35.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Age is the most common cause of this sort of failure -- the tire cord simply breaks down.  It's worse in white-wall or &quot;skin-wall&quot; tires where black rubber does not cover the sidewall.  This allows sunlight, ozone, and any petroleum fumes in the air to attack the gum rubber holding the sidewall cords together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, under-inflation causes excessive sidewall flex and subsequent cord breakdown.  Combine it with age and the tire gets a double whammy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond those, it's possible to &quot;bruise&quot; the tire various ways.  Hitting curbs, eg, especially with under-inflated tires, can create a bruise in the sidewall (in addition to the danger of &quot;snake-bite&quot; tube damage).  Or the tire may damaged in storage when a garden implement is pressed up against it or some such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T01:35:35.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-11T02:26:00.547" Score="3" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got this mountain bike almost 3 weeks ago. I took it for a long ride(120km back and forth). We encountered heavy rain during our ride, we were riding on a highway back then, there's flood water flowing everywhere as you would imagine but not enough to submerge the bottom bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is perfect until the next day. I took the bike for a spin, I felt something inside bottom bracket snapping. I immediately inspected the crank to see if its loose but its not. I then moved on investigating on the pedal, as it may give this feel as well but its not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really think this has something to do with the bottom bracket. I then took it back to the bike shop I purchased is from to be checked. What I was thinking is flood water went in and affected the performance of the bottom bracket, I'm thinking of asking them to repack my bottom bracket however. The shop mechanic won't do it, he told me that its too soon for a bottom bracket repack. The snap that I feel inside the bottom bracket is not extreme, as a matter of fact you wont feel it if you don't pay attention to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its just irritating for me specially if I'm not experiencing anything like that before the long ride. If you shake the crank its rock solid. What should I do? I'm using &lt;strong&gt;Trinx XC3 treker&lt;/strong&gt;, not top of the line but high quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22534" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T02:43:10.573" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T22:50:28.610" Title="What should I do with my crank/bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34334" CreationDate="2015-09-11T03:09:53.950" Score="3" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a mistake when changing a flat. I didn't have it in 4th speed. When I was changing the flat I shifted it for more give on the shifter cable &gt;_&amp;lt; . Now my shifter says 4 and I don't known what the gear is actually in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been field testing it to get the 4 on the shifter to put the hub in 4th speed. I'll commute to work, experience slippage, adjust it so the yellow lines match, and continue experiencing slippage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll unhook the shifter cable. Shift down so 4 is now 3. Field test again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know what speed my hub is in when the shifter doesn't match?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22536" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T07:36:07.947" Title="What speed is my Shimano Nexus 8 Hub in?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34329" CreationDate="2015-09-11T04:52:07.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you just bought it, the shop mechanic should remedy the problem no matter what specific part is to blame. If not, threaten to return the entire bike and take your business elsewhere. It should be as simple as that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T04:52:07.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34310" CreationDate="2015-09-11T05:59:23.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try the Strava route planner.   &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.strava.com/&lt;/a&gt;   and you install an app on a iphone or android phone.  It will give you a moving map while riding showing you where you are, and where the turns are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The route planner can be told to &quot;prefer popular roads&quot; or to minimise distance or minimise elevation change.  Plus you can get a &quot;global heatmap&quot; that shows you where other people bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its free to use, with some payware features for people doing training.  I've used the free side for a year now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T05:59:23.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34330" CreationDate="2015-09-11T06:57:03.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am unfamiliar with that model, but most have a pull wire of some description.  So you slacken-off the shifter, the wire is pulled down to the deraillerureurelrer which moves to its most relaxed position which is the TOP gear, which is the BIGGEST number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess you would put the shifter into position #4 or whatever the highest number is, then the slack will allow the geared hub to relax to its highest position.  Clamp up your cable so its taut and then test.  You may need to teak a barrel adjuster to get it dialed in right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T06:57:03.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34330" CreationDate="2015-09-11T07:36:07.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put your shifter in 4th gear. Adjust the cable tension so that the yellow lines match. There really isn't more to it. Not much to do wrong. If you can then shift all the way up to 8 and down to 1, the basic installation is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However ... from my experience, these hubs change a little over time. Mine (Alfine 8, basically the same thing) shows slippage in some gear every time I re-install it. After aligning the yellow lines, try to slacken the cable a little bit. This &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be closer to the setting the hub was before you changed your tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7279" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T07:36:07.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34310" CreationDate="2015-09-11T07:41:13.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course a routing application can only do so much, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://brouter.de/brouter-web/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brouter.de/brouter-web/&lt;/a&gt; is great and you can adjust the parameters (e.g. penalities for turning, elevation, primary streets, tracks etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T07:41:13.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-11T15:54:49.330" Score="2" ViewCount="13260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to calculate maximum force various braking systems can apply and for that I need the ergonomic data as to how much force fingers can apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22543" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T06:11:48.553" Title="How much maximum force can be applied by fingers on the brake lever?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30536" CreationDate="2015-09-11T16:30:37.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the drum brake surface wears down, you will have to keep tightening the adjustment bolt so that the drum lever arm moves forward (towards the front of the bike) more and more.  Sheldon has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/adj.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some images and explanation&lt;/a&gt; that you might want look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drum Brake Adjustment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When brakes are new they may have to be adjusted frequently (until the shoes have become properly bedded in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With cable-operated brakes the small locknut (A in the diagram) is first Loosened off and then the knurled adjuster (B in diagram) is tightened until the brake shoes are felt to be rubbing on the inner surface of the hub shell. The adjuster is then Loosened just enough to allow the wheel to revolve without friction, and the locknut is tightened up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike does not have an adjustment nut/bolt at the drum, you will have to undo the retaining nut, cinch up some more brake cable, and tighten it back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know you've used up all of your brake surface when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brakes are making a horrible grinding or scraping sound and/or aren't working efficiently (note: they might be just glazed so you should take them apart and see if the brake surface is glazed; if so, deglaze it with sandpaper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The brake drum lever arm is almost all the way forward and is limiting your braking performance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a little arrow or other indicator on some brake drums by the brake lever arm which indicates that the brake lever arm is fully extended and worn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You've taken the outer housing off and you can visually see that the brake surface is worn down. The brake specifications should give you the minimum brake bed material that you need, otherwise I'd use about ~2 mm as a general rule.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of their larger surface area and because they are in the rear, drum brakes tend to have a longer life compared to front brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Wikimedia commons is this image of a panasonic drum brake (front and rear). This brake has an adjustment nut/ferrule where the brake cable housing meets the brake. Note that the brake lever arm is pointing slightly backwards (towards the rear of the bike).  You should check for wear if you're at the point that you've back the adjustment out so much that the brake arm lever is pointing forward even when the brakes aren't applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZ9Do.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZ9Do.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Panasonic Drum Brake Front&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1vJr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1vJr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Panasonic Drum Brake Rear&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T21:31:28.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-11T16:37:22.490" Score="6" ViewCount="1937" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a FSA Carbon crank where the thread/bolt for my pedal has become lose and wobbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all fairness the crank has has 20,000KM on it. Can it be repaired, can I replace just the crank, or do I need to replace the entire crankset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22544" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T00:22:18.457" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T03:54:04.690" Title="Carbon crank with loose pedal thread" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34336" CreationDate="2015-09-11T17:21:44.243" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your question is about the maximum hand grip can applied to brake so that the braking system will not be broken apart, then it is as another answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it has little value on designing a braking system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How I interpret the question is: how much force is typically applied to the brake lever to stop the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many designing considerations and I only list a few main one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maximum force on to lever&lt;/strong&gt; that a person feels comfortable at gripping for a long duration (for me it's about 5-7 kg or 50-70N)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modulation&lt;/strong&gt; how well the spread between the the force at which the bike starts to decelerate, and the &lt;strong&gt;Maximum force&lt;/strong&gt;. This depends on the braking technology, the pad/rim surface/rotor. But in general, disc brake is superior because of the (more) linearity in braking. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Linearity&lt;/strong&gt;: how linear the stopping power versus the force applied by brakes? This is interesting and thus somehow explains why road bike is equipped with caliper, hybrid with cantilever, and mountain bike with disc brake. Linearity improves as we go from caliper-cantilever-disc. The discrepancy is large when higher stopping power is required. But at smaller (required) stopping power, a caliper is not that much different front disc brake for a given braking range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maximum stopping power&lt;/strong&gt; This is safety feature, but it should not be easy to flip the bike with too little gripping onto the brake lever. This has to take into account the bicycle geometry, and that is why road bike is normally equipped with caliper brake. Even some (supposed-to-be) road bike has disc brake, the rotor/leverage/cylinder was designed so that it has much less stopping power than a mountain bike disc brake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it depends on type of brake and how fast you would like to stop the bike, at what speed, and at what momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want a number to work with (for your home work?), I can give you.&#xA;A normal cable brake on flat handle bar would need about 40-50 N (3-4 kg) for hard stop, about 20-40N (1-2 kg) for normal deceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same stopping power with drop handlebar and caliper brake would need about 1.5 to 2 times as much (comparing Figure 1 and 2), depends on hand position (leverage). Typically hands at hood position requires more force for same stopping power in comparison to hands at drop position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same stopping power with hydraulic disc brake needs about 0.5-0.7 fold. This depends on the rotor size/pattern and type of ceramic and thus it is hard to quantify. But the general still holds, if you are designing a disc brake that has an enormous stopping power for normal stopping, you actually degrades the modulation ability of said brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Daro.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Braking force required onto lever in cantilever brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure 1a. Normal barking force on drop position of drop handlebar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhGJM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Braking force required to lever on emergency stop on drop position of drop handlebar&quot;&gt;&#xA;Figure 1b. Braking force required to lever on emergency stop on drop position of drop handlebar&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ykNpu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Braking force required onto lever in cantilever brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure 2a Braking force required onto lever in cantilever brake for normal stop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oYFky.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Braking force required onto lever in cantilever brake&quot;&gt;&#xA;Figure 2b Braking force required onto lever in cantilever brake for hard stop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T20:11:45.293" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T20:11:45.293" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34336" CreationDate="2015-09-11T17:41:04.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://msis.jsc.nasa.gov/sections/section04.htm#Figure%204.9.3-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nasa&lt;/a&gt; says 58 lbs is 5th percentile (I think they use 5% bc they want to make sure that devices can be operated by the weakest of possible people)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lni.wa.gov/safety/research/files/hand_force.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;State of WA&lt;/a&gt; puts avg at 106 lbs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2882344/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BMC Musculoskelet Disord&lt;/a&gt; has average of 153 lbs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess someone who trains their grip can get into the hundreds of lbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T17:41:04.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34336" CreationDate="2015-09-11T18:30:43.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest your analysis is flawed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Finger strength to cable pull has a lot of variability:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  internal leverage in the brake lever mechanism&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  where on the lever the force is applied&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-  on the brake mechanism itself you have different leverages  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most mountain brakes are used with two fingers and many levers are not even long enough for 4 fingers    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a drop bar are you on the hoods or in the drops&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want some good numbers then you need to put a weight on the brake cable &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And most brakes can skid a tire.  Once you skid the tire (rear) or go out font (front) the max does not come into play.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are you trying to accomplish here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T18:30:43.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31885" CreationDate="2015-09-11T19:42:56.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you can't use 10-speed Shimano road brifters with 10-speed Dyna-Sys mountain bike drivetrains. They just have different cable pull ratios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're limited to a few options if you want to run drop bars with 10-speed Shimano:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount your existing MTB trigger shift on your drop bars. This means you have to take your hands off the hoods and drops to shift. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get 10-speed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.microshift.com.tw/SL-M10_shifters.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dyna-Sys compatible thumb shifters&lt;/a&gt; from Microshift. You must take your hands off the hoods and drops to shift.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get 10-speed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.microshift.com.tw/BS-M10_Shifters.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dyna-Sys compatible bar end shifters&lt;/a&gt; from Microshift. You must shift from the drops. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get &lt;a href=&quot;http://gevenalle.com/product/gx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gevanalle GX&lt;/a&gt; brake/shifter kit, you must shift from the hoods using indexed bar end shifters mounted on front of brake levers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could try road brifters and a long cage road derailleur with a 10-speed mountain cassette. Definitely unsupported by Shimano. May be limited to 11–32 cassette instead of 11–34 or 11–36. YMMV.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you can mix and match road and mountain components with most SRAM 10-speed drivetrains. So you could use something like force shifters with X9 derailleurs with less trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="24228" LastEditDate="2020-01-27T18:28:43.350" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T18:28:43.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34338" CreationDate="2015-09-11T20:35:21.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try the warranty route first as @Carel suggested. It is possible that the movement has done enough damage that repair is not possible. I would consult a shop that specializes in Carbon Frame repair. They may be able to reaffix the threaded insert into the arm. As carbon parts are becoming more common repair of what used to unrepairable parts is also becoming more common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T20:35:21.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34338" CreationDate="2015-09-11T21:31:05.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/support/warranty-policy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FSA Warranty&lt;/a&gt; is 2 years on cranksets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still contact them to see what they recommend.They might be able to repair, recommend a company who can repair or offer you a lower-cost replacement. You didn't say which crank arm it is but they may also be able to provide a replacement for just that crank arm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also stop using the crank for now for two different reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the event this is repairable, you don't want to make the current damage any worse as it could tip things past the point to where it is no longer fixable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't want to risk catastrophic failure of the crank where the threaded insert breaks completely out of the crank taking the pedal and your control of the bike with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T03:54:04.690" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T03:54:04.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21614" CreationDate="2015-09-11T21:31:34.750" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just called Shimano to ask this question for a customer's bike. For switching from a resin to a metallic padset, the answer is clean rotor with isopropyl alcohol and do a standard bed-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Didn't ask them about metallic to resin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22547" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T21:31:34.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34329" CreationDate="2015-09-11T22:50:28.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heck, for piece of mind, I'd make the following deal with the shop. Offer to pay for a clean and repack, but if they find anything inside (like metal debris, etc) that came from the original manufacturing process then the bike manufacturer gets to own that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought is.. what if a piece of extraneous metal, left in the frame during a sloppy manufacturing experience has fallen into your bearings?  (loose burr on inside of seat post that has now fallen, loose weld bead, welding rod stub, etc...)  What if a ball bearing has broken in half, or a race has become bent?  Heck are the correct number of ball bearings in there?  Many of those things would fall under warranty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember how the warranty works.  The bike shop does a repair, and if its a valid warranty claim, the manufacturer re-imburses the local bike shop the repair costs.  If the bike shop does a repair and its not considered to be under warranty, then the bike shop has to eat that loss.  So work with them.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either you pay the local bike shop, or the manufacturer pays your local bike shop.  The bike shop incurs no loss and you get piece of mind, zen and harmony (in that order.)  Everybody leaves happy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative, you can certainly purchase the tools to do this job by yourself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10848" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T22:50:28.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34290" CreationDate="2015-09-12T00:01:06.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advise against the grinding idea.  You might be okay if there's enough meat left on the ring, but these are part of your braking system, you really don't want that to fail.  Imagine an emergency situation, or even an intersection at the bottom of a big hill.  You squeeze the levers hard and the mounting rings break, your brake cables go slack and you can't slow down or stop.  Even assuming only one ring were to break, you'd have maybe half of your stopping ability remaining which could easily lead to injury (or worse).  The breaking of the ring could also startle you enough that you lose your grip on the handle bars.  Not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22494" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T00:01:06.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34351" CreationDate="2015-09-12T05:28:57.117" Score="4" ViewCount="1384" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's my &quot;long distance&quot; ride, which is an old steel MTB without suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I picked it up by the saddle to move it and felt some play, I thought the saddle rails might have been loose, but as per picture, there's a crack 90% of the way around the frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bent it open a bit more with medium finger pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crack shows evidence of rust, so its been a slow break rather than a sudden one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CiVW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CiVW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crack in seat post receiver&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm 100 kilos and have long legs, with a standover height of 91 cm.  The frame is too small for me at 20&quot; / 51 cm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seat post was reinforced internally with extra pipe (I have bent seat posts before).&#xA;The post extended 10cm into the frame (i.e., well past the crack) and then 29cm up to the seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strava says I've done 2,949 km on this bike in the last 15 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my main question: is this an old-age fatigue failure of the frame, or did I break it by being too tall, or too heavy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second – is the frame repairable or is it now scrap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T06:17:09.250" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T06:18:45.307" Title="What caused this seat clamp / frame failure?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;crack&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34350" CreationDate="2015-09-12T05:47:25.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like plain old metal fatigue. Most probably there was a hairline crack, then water got into it and rusted it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that when you extend the seat height, you increase the lever arm of the seat post and put a considerable amount of stress on the frame precisely at that location. It doesn't help that the design of that seat clamp has no reinforcing material and is high-up, further increasing the leverage on it. Poor design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that it's a steel frame. You could take it to an auto body welder and they could easily fix it for less than an hour of labor. Since they can't weld from both sides (the seat tube wouldn't go in), it'd still be weak and susceptible to damage. Or you could try rebrazing it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T06:18:45.307" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T06:18:45.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34336" CreationDate="2015-09-12T06:11:48.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a search with Google for &quot;male grip force&quot; and got quite few hits that look reasonable, one, the International Encyclopedia of Ergonomics and Human Factors, Second Edition, has an article on &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=qFBAv_ib0VYC&amp;amp;pg=PA367&amp;amp;lpg=PA367&amp;amp;dq=male+grip+force&amp;amp;source=bl&amp;amp;ots=wpiHG-ZfRZ&amp;amp;sig=qqTDmcsE9MrG9C9O93uQ63y41iM&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0CEcQ6AEwBWoVChMIv-eGhsLwxwIVChSSCh3pCwGz#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=male%20grip%20force&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hand Grip and Pinch Strength&lt;/a&gt; – perhaps that will help you get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding the term &quot;bicycle&quot; to the search finds an interesting looking article called [][2], but you have to register for an account to read it and they seem to only be open to providing accounts to researchers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are working on a bike related project it might be useful to use actual handlebars and brakes to collect your own data. I suspect that typical riding grips on brakes are not typical of what is published, but it would not be hard to rig a brake cable to a spring scale to measure force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T06:11:48.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34287" CreationDate="2015-09-12T08:08:38.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steel requires rust proofing. Just like on you car, there is a thin layer of primer under the top color. When scratched to the base metal, sanding and painting the affected area is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sand until the exposed metal is shiny. Depending on the spot, you can use a high grit paper, or wet sand paper with water. You might want to start with 200-300 grit and then maybe 400 or 600. You're working with a small area so you don't want to press hard when sanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good technique to make sanding with paper easier is to fold it a few times to get into tight areas. Folding gives you a stiffer sheet edge and you can work it in crevices. Also wrap an inch or two of paper around a woodend dowel, or even a pencil. A round shape will help you sand the long vertical scratch on the fork without having to sand the whole width of the fork surface. The round shape will only touch the suface in a long thin area instead of a wide area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet sand paper is usually less than a dollar at most hardware stores when bought by the sheet instead of the pack. You shouldn't need more than a sheet or two of each grit. Wet paper last a lot longer than dry. It can also be cleaned/washed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a high percentage alcohol to degrease and remove dust after sanding. Dry thoroughly if wet sanding before using the alcohol. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then prime, even if it's just dab priming. Allow the primer to dry thouroughly and lightly sand the primer back to where the original paint just shows around the wound. You can also use a high number wet sand paper with water to lightly sand.&#xA;Look for a paint match at an auto parts store. Dab the paint on primed areas and let dry. Wet sand with high grit paper to match the original finish. Treat the paint like a regular car. Small amounts of paint polish will give you a good shiny finish with little work. Apply wax and enjoy. Paint like yours should last a long time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Rough sand with shaped paper to get the rust off down to the metal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Wet sand for a finer surface finish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Dry, then degrease with alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Paint with primer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Sand the primer and lightly dust with lint free cloth(cotton ball or pad) and alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) Apply matched paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7) Wet sand with fine paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8) Wash, then polish and wax to shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9) Enjoy for years to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22553" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T08:08:38.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-12T12:47:33.840" Score="2" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I removed the front tire on my bike for the first time this past week. After I put the tire back on and went for a ride, it appears the bike does not turn as crisply/smoothly as before. I didn't have this issue before I removed the front tire, so I believe it has something to so with me not aligning it correctly. Have you heard of this issue before and any suggestions on how I might fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FYI. I checked and can confirmed the brake pad is not rubbing against the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22555" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T22:32:22.387" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T00:06:08.463" Title="Wheel alignment" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;alignment&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34360" CreationDate="2015-09-12T13:28:33.450" Score="6" ViewCount="2874" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has already been established that most of braking power comes from front brake. Now, several times that I have been replacing brake pads on my commuter cyclocross bike I have noticed that rear pads are worn out but front still have some rubber in them. Does this happen to anyone else, and why would this happen?&#xA;The brakes are Shimano cantilevers, previously I had no-brand min-V's that did the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T16:40:01.617" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T21:30:34.687" Title="Why would my rear brake pads wear faster than front?" Tags="&lt;brake-pads&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34355" CreationDate="2015-09-12T13:43:12.830" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, front will wear faster, for both the rim and the pads. Bicycle is a bit hard to judge because it depends on the rider's habit, brake pad's quality and surface contact, and also the rim's quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can tell you that front brakes in cars need replacing more often than rear. This example is a bit more objective than bicycle since front and rear are operated by a single brake (although it depends on how the brake is setup and is still subjective).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T13:43:12.830" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34361" CreationDate="2015-09-12T15:26:23.090" Score="2" ViewCount="1512" Body="&lt;p&gt;In these days I'm going to design a e bike project. I'm going to use BLDC motor for that. but normally (according to my knowledge) there are two types of BLDC motors. there are, normal BLDC motor and stepper motor. my problem in can I use a Large stepper motor for the e bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22559" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T05:05:21.367" Title="Stepper motor for ebike" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34285" CreationDate="2015-09-12T15:28:58.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used both 105 5800 and Claris 2300, and while 105 5800 is much better, I think the biggest advantage of 5800 is &quot;&lt;strong&gt;upgradability&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;, aka being 11 speed, since you can always upgrade your bikes by purchasing some parts from Dura-Ace 9000, Ultegra 6800, ones from Sram (or even campagnolo if inclined). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course Shimano will move to 12 speed or higher someday and eventually the current 11 speed groupsets will be a legacy, but still, if you are going to cherish your bike and go deep into cycling, buying 8 speed groupset nowadays is kinda having liability. They cost less, but in a long term they cost more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14337" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T15:28:58.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34355" CreationDate="2015-09-12T15:45:10.573" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of factors that might come into play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is that you may be braking more than you think at the back. Which brake is controlled by your stronger hand? Are they adjusted the same? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second factor is dirt. The front wheel throws up dust and muddy water, some of which can reach the back wheel even with mudguards. This can abrade both the pads and the rims. This will be much reduced on disk brakes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use the brakes a lot downhill you may find yourself using the back lightly to stop yourself accelerating. This seems to cause quite a lot of wear, perhaps because the brakes don't remove the dirt like they would in a hard stop and perhaps because it's a lot of wheel revs with the brake touching the rims. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to notice this on stock pads and the cheap dual compounds I first replaced them with. The KoolStop pads I now use wear much less and I don't notice a difference. This is on ordinary shimano V brakes. This was despite only taking up the slack in the back brake when coming to a hard stop, but I had a couple of steep downhills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T15:45:10.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34358" CreationDate="2015-09-12T16:44:30.643" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stepper motors have very poor maximum RPMs and dreadful torque at high rpm. Also, controlling stepper motors requires a special controller and it's hard to find high amperage controllers. High-amperage stepper motors are also very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's really no advantage to using a stepper motor. You don't need its precision (you can tell a stepper to rotate CW 145 degrees then back CCW 32 degrees, but why would you need that in an e-bike). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go with an appropriate brushless motor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T16:44:30.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34363" CreationDate="2015-09-12T17:52:33.583" Score="3" ViewCount="3169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an old Trek 1200 road bike circa 1995 with down tube shifters and mostly original components.  These days, I mostly ride it on my summer vacation on Martha's Vineyard where most of the riding is on pavement but occasionally I'll want to venture down a sandy road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I currently have smooth 23 mm tires that I fill to 115 psi.  These are terrible on the sandy roads!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you recommend tires for a road bike that would do better on sandy roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: These are sandy roads that cars and mountain bikes would have no problems going down.  It is a mixture of packed dirt and shallow sandy areas.  Sandy roads are not that long, no more than a mile here and there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE2: I bought two of these 700x28 &lt;a href=&quot;https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXXH5QG/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kenda tires&lt;/a&gt;. This worked for the front but was too big for the back.  I'm going to return one and get a 700x25 for the back.  People on Amazon say these tires run big, so other 28 tires might work on this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22560" LastEditorUserId="22560" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T16:39:49.930" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T16:39:49.930" Title="Road bike tires that are ok on sand" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;tire&gt;&lt;off-road&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34362" CreationDate="2015-09-12T18:16:30.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On sand you'll need wider tires that do not dig into sand as easily as well as some tread pattern to prevent sand grains from rolling under your tires. 23mm is too narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Measure the forks, if they are wide enough you can use cyclocross semislicks. I have seen an old Trek road bike with cyclocross tires used in a race, so it might be possible for your bike too. Narrower touring tires are an option too, get the widest that you can fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T18:16:30.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34378" CreationDate="2015-09-12T18:18:07.960" Score="0" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've test ridden the Synapse Sora 7 and love it! Going to buy it! But i've one concern. &#xA;I'd like to know if I can ride my Synapse on the same terrain as seen along the Paris-Roubaix? &#xA;I've seen the Cannondale Synapse in action at the Paris-Roubaix with Ruben Zepuntke. But his bike is a special model, mine isn't. &#xA;So can my 2015 Cannondale Synapse Sora 7 withstand a normal Paris-Roubaix route? &#xA;My LBS clerk responded with &quot;i'm not sure&quot; when I asked that question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21088" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T06:37:32.270" Title="Riding Cannondale Synapse on Paris-Roubaix terrain?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34362" CreationDate="2015-09-12T20:18:53.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biggest tire you can get in it.  I doubt you can find a sand or even dirt type traction tire at 30 mm or less.  So go with a touring tires.  Install flat and pump them on the bike.  Front to back may not be the same.  You would be lucky to get 30mm and hopefully 28mm.  Problem is that even 30mm is terrible in soft sand.  In packed wet sand even a 30mm is marginal.  For soft sand a 2&quot; is a minimum.  If you want to sand then look for a used mtn bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cyclocross the technique for riding sand is in the saddle, hands up on bars, and head up.  The idea is to keep as much weight off the front tire as possible. Keep the font end lite and go with the flow.  You will get pushed around and you need to relax and go with it.  Hitting the sand with speed helps but you need to be comfortable with sand for that.  Even 10 yards in soft sand is lot of work.  In a more packed sand I would guess the same technique.  Standing does not seem to work very well in sand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T05:14:52.707" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T05:14:52.707" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34371" CreationDate="2015-09-13T00:59:08.017" Score="3" ViewCount="15880" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately, after my normal wash &amp;amp; lube routine, I've been squirting a little Teflon lube into the bottom bracket hub. I do so without dissembling by inserting the lube straw into the hub crevice. Is this advisable or a bad idea? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell it seems to help prevent creaking, but maybe that's in my head. For what its worth I commute and ride often and live in the PNW (read: wetter than usual conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22561" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T03:20:28.947" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T03:20:28.947" Title="Bottom Bracket Lube?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15930" CreationDate="2015-09-13T01:09:34.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cut a bit of cable housing, peel the plastic, and squeeze as you would a conventional cap (using more force, though). Doesn't look bad but is no substitute for actual end caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22535" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T01:09:34.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37880" CreationDate="2015-09-13T01:27:11.800" Score="4" ViewCount="1127" Body="&lt;p&gt;The steerer in the French bike I'm restoring has about .2mm less diameter than &quot;regular&quot; ones. With some grease, I manage to fit the &quot;regular&quot; cinelli stem I will use into the steerer. (Mine is the opposite problem as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/32256/stem-diameter-question&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm inclined to I leave it thus. What are the odds that stem and steerer will freeze after some time, making removal hard/impossible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative is to sand down the stem to get a more easy fit. Downside is that sanding means the end of the stem's very nice looks, forever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be grateful for anyone with advice to offer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22535" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T05:27:31.420" Title="Another stem diameter question (French steerer)" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;&lt;restoration&gt;&lt;steerer&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34362" CreationDate="2015-09-13T01:37:53.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As other answers have said, wider tires and lower tire pressures can help. Technique is the other half of the solution, because it can be used with your current tires and with wider ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing is to do when you encounter the sand is ride straight. The deeper the sand is, the more it grabs your wheels. Small steering movements can have big consequences. But very shallow sand can be slippery. So avoid turns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing is to slow down, until your skills with sand improve. With better skills you can go faster again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing is to maintain a constant speed. In deep sand, if you want to stop then just stop pedaling, or use the &lt;em&gt;rear&lt;/em&gt; brake. But to get through deep sand you have to keep pedaling. After getting into the sand, you may need to stand to apply enough power to maintain that constant speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/20879/8273&quot;&gt;this other answer&lt;/a&gt; and the discussion with @ChrisH that follows it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And see this &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/10323/8273&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; by @Rider_X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T08:35:21.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34366" CreationDate="2015-09-13T01:44:11.180" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would avoid doing this. If the Teflon lube has any kind of solvent in it (which it probably does to carry the Teflon), it will break down the grease in the bottom bracket. Eventually, the grease will thin out enough that it will flow out of the bottom bracket, and No More Lube=A Very Bad Thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using a basic cartridge bottom bracket, they are typically not serviceable, and you'll have to replace it when it wears out. Higher end cartridge BBs have replaceable bearings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a more traditional-style cup/cone/spindle BB, you can service it, but you'll have to remove everything. After cleaning and checking for damage, reassemble with a heavier lube (marine grade bearing grease is good; available at most auto supply and hardware stores) to resist the wet, and go ride!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22562" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T01:44:11.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34366" CreationDate="2015-09-13T01:47:48.507" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike has a conventional threaded bottom bracket (square taper). Since its a relatively new bike, it shipped with a sealed (*) bottom bracket. So, the only maintenance that can be done is tightening the bottom bracket cups (which hold the bottom bracket in place) and replacing the bottom bracket itself (which is a sealed unit containing the bearings, axle, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the lube you're squirting is just helping your head. You may have a loose bottom bracket cup which you can tighten by removing the crank arms and then using a bottom bracket tool to tighten them up. But otherwise, the only other maintenance that can be done is replacing the bottom bracket. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, bicycles are notorious for having creaking seem to come from one area but its really coming from another (since bicycles are hollow tubes, they transmit sound in weird ways). My guess (unencumbered by the thought process) is if the creaking is coming from near the bottom bracket area, I'd start by looking at the crankset (chainring bolts, crank arms, pedals) and then the saddle/seatpost. There are lots of good pages on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/trouble-shooting-a-creaky-or-noisy-drive-train&quot;&gt;diagnosing creaks&lt;/a&gt; (and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;).  And some bottom brackets just creak even if they're working fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) Sealed bearings don't mean that they're operating completely sealed away from the environment -- details are given in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/sealed-bearings.html&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; by John Allen. But this point doesn't really matter in this case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T01:47:48.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34471" CreationDate="2015-09-13T02:58:08.437" Score="6" ViewCount="44439" Body="&lt;p&gt;When pedaling with a decent amount of force a very loud creaking sound can be heard coming from the bottom bracket area (it is very loud when standing on the pedals). It makes a creaking noise on each foot's down stroke. So with both feet pedaling equals two creaks per full revolution. If I unclip either foot and pedal with only one foot, a creaking noise will be heard once per revolution (on the down stroke of the pedaling foot). If I pedal softly, no noise is heard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that I have done so far, yet the problem remains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing pedals, regreasing their threads and making sure they are tightened. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening chaining bolts. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replacing the actual crankset.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking the crankset out, cleaning all the old grease and regreasing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making sure the crank arm is tightened correctly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything left besides it being the bottom bracket causing the problem? I haven't had a chance to inspect that yet because it's a pressfit and I don't have the proper tools to take it out and reinsert it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18835" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T03:01:51.907" Title="Bottom bracket creaking only when pedaling hard." Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34372" CreationDate="2015-09-13T03:50:17.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frame damage (e.g. cracks) can cause creaking too. Since you said it happens while standing, that eliminates the seat post + saddle (which are often causes of creaking which are attributed to the bottom bracket). You've also eliminated the crankset+pedals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pressfit systems are notorious for having creaks, so it's likely the bottom bracket (to the point where its considered &quot;normal&quot; in some cases). Given how much tools for dealing with pressfit cost, it's probably going to mean going to a shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T03:50:17.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34358" CreationDate="2015-09-13T05:05:21.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stepper motors are generally used for servo (positioning) applications.  They work great in Shimano's Di2 electronic derailleurs (obviously a positioner).  But your application is straight velocity mode, stick with BLDC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22494" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T05:05:21.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34241" CreationDate="2015-09-13T05:21:36.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming your current pads are V-brake style, these pads should work well: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.swissstop.com/rimbrakes/rxplus/yellowking/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.swissstop.com/rimbrakes/rxplus/yellowking/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the pad holders, it's not easy to find them sold without pads, nor with carbon pads.  That's too bad, but you can buy these anyway and use the pads on another bike: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koolstop.com/english/v_type2holder.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.koolstop.com/english/v_type2holder.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T05:21:36.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34279" CreationDate="2015-09-13T05:25:17.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no specific way to calculate the worth of a frame when taken from a complete bicycle.  The market will tell you how much it wants to pay for such a frame, but the theoretical calculation of &quot;The frame is worth the complete bike price minus the price of all other components'&quot; is wrong.  Firstly it's wrong because it ignores assembly and value-add pricing.  Secondly it's wrong because it ignores the steep discount you get when buying a complete bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine asking how much the chassis of a Ford Explorer is worth.  If you try to buy all the other parts separately, the total will be more than double what a complete vehicle would cost.  Bikes are a bit like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T05:25:17.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34354" CreationDate="2015-09-13T05:33:59.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;More details needed.  Road or mountain bike?  Did you just just removed the wheel (with tire on it) from the fork (like for transporting), or did you mean you pulled the tire off the wheel rim and replaced it (like repairing a flat)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tires (especially more aggressive mountain bike tires) are directional - did you put the tire back on the same direction it was before?  If you did not take the tire off the rim and did not remove the skewer, the skewer clamp should be on the left side of the fork (non-drive side of your bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nothing else, flip your bike upside-down and re-seat the front wheel making sure it's to the bottom of the dropouts on both sides, then make sure the skewer is good and tight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think you may have put the tire on the wheel backwards, remove the wheel and flip it around so the skewer is on the right and see if that makes any difference.  If you have disc brakes this won't work, you would have to remove and tire from the wheel to change the direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22494" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T05:33:59.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34364" CreationDate="2015-09-13T06:37:32.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bike can withstand it.  The question remains whether the ride can withstand it.  As for the bike, there are a handful of issues that are more likely to arise on such rides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Filthy chain and gears.  Clean after each dirty ride.  Lube chain regularly.  Replace chain every one or two thousand miles, in accordance with a chain wear gauge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pinch flats.  You want low pressure in the tyres for comfort, but not so low that they pinch when running over gaps, ruts, and stones.  Use higher-volume tires such as 28mm (&quot;28c&quot;) ones, but try them out in the store to make sure they fit your particular bike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eventually, blown spokes.  You will probably break a spoke if you ride on such terrain for thousands of kilometers.  This depends a lot on your weight and riding style.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Random bits getting loose.  Check the bike after every long ride for loose fasteners.  Use Loc-tite where appropriate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above would apply to any performance-oriented bike to some degree.  A more expensive road bike like the professionals use is of little advantage--what you really need is a team mechanic who looks after all these issues every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T06:37:32.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32096" CreationDate="2015-09-13T08:56:05.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After Batman's comment (&quot;Any 9 speed Shimano mountain shifter will work as a replacement. All Shimano 9 speed both mountain and road have same cable pull.&quot;) I went ahead and got an SL-M590. It works perfectly well as a replacement for my SL-M760.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20593" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T08:56:05.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T10:04:29.600" Score="5" ViewCount="1104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I daily cycle 20~30 km in (high) traffic going between home, faculty and other places. However I have never been outside of city or in any kind of competition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I have to go to another city and I was wondering if it is a good idea to attempt this journey with my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The route:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;180 km, Bucharest to Focșani, Romania.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;total ascent 900m (mostly final part)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;total descent 750m&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;national road (100 kph), well maintained, 1 or 2 lane(s) per direction, no median barrier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100% asphalt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;passes villages and 2 major cities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike I think it is a hybrid bike (or MTB maybe), but nothing high-end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weather is nice and at return, if that won't be the case, I have to option to take the train (it hopefully should allow for carying the bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main concern is traffic (I am used to traffic, but in the city) and the bike breaking down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there will be physical problems from me and I expect to make it in less than 12 hours, but again I never attempted anything like this so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prospect of this road trip with my bike really excites me, but I don't want to do something foolish. So should I go for it, or just take the damn bus? If the bike breaks down and I cannot fix it what are my options? Anything else I should be worry about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19685" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T12:09:42.427" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T03:50:24.423" Title="Should I attempt a long trip?" Tags="&lt;touring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34380" CreationDate="2015-09-13T11:21:39.447" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;180 km is a long way for someone who only normally does 20-30km (to quote @PeterH in chat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my way of thinking, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; do it, with some pre-conditions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do some longer rides, where you ride 30km to somewhere, have lunch, and ride back.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ride on some of the potential routes, to understand the traffic situation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plan ahead, so that you do it over two or more days.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would check out where other people ride. For example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.strava.com/activities/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;amp;location=Bucharest%2C+Romania&amp;amp;[country]=Romania&amp;amp;[state]=Bucharest&amp;amp;[city]=Bucharest&amp;amp;[lat_lng]=44.4267674%2C26.102538399999958&amp;amp;keywords=&amp;amp;activity_type=Ride&amp;amp;type=&amp;amp;distance_start=90&amp;amp;distance_end=300&amp;amp;time_start=0&amp;amp;time_end=10&amp;amp;elev_gain_start=0&amp;amp;elev_gain_end=1000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strava activities near Bucharest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.strava.com/activities/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;amp;location=Foc%C8%99ani%2C+Romania&amp;amp;[country]=Romania&amp;amp;[state]=Vrancea+County&amp;amp;[city]=Foc%C8%99ani&amp;amp;[lat_lng]=45.69647450000001%2C27.184042999999974&amp;amp;keywords=&amp;amp;activity_type=Ride&amp;amp;type=&amp;amp;distance_start=80&amp;amp;distance_end=300&amp;amp;time_start=0&amp;amp;time_end=10&amp;amp;elev_gain_start=0&amp;amp;elev_gain_end=1000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strava activities near Focșani&lt;/a&gt;. A lot of these go into the mountains, but you may find some that go where you want.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And use &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/maps/@44.7619476,26.5303418,3a,75y,103.85h,67.73t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sAoXugWl0Mpmpw42zvxTTsg!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo0.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DAoXugWl0Mpmpw42zvxTTsg%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D35.54781%26pitch%3D0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google Street View&lt;/a&gt; for reconnaissance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few related questions and answers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/31876/what-is-the-necessary-equipment-on-longer-bike-rides/31877#31877&quot;&gt;What is the necessary equipment on longer bike rides?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30787/help-for-a-169-mile-bike-ride/30788&quot;&gt;Help for a 169 mile bike ride&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30543/training-involved-to-ride-175-miles-in-a-day/30554#30554&quot;&gt;Training involved to ride 175 miles (281 km) in a day&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T11:21:39.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34380" CreationDate="2015-09-13T12:50:09.373" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is yes, you will be very tired but do it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took my first long trip after commuting 30~40 km daily and never doing anything more than 60 km at once before. The bike was very low end flat bar road bike. The trip consisted of 150~180 km per day for three continuous days. There were few not major, but noticeable mountains on the first day and plenty of traffic.&#xA;150 km of the first day did not take much effort. I felt like running more would not be an issue at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;180 on the second day were very hard, mostly because of the sores caused by the inappropriate clothing and flat bars and a major city I have had to cross at that day. Crossing large cities is a thing to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third day was hell because of rain, but that's completely different story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preparation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take some basic tools with you, such as tools necessary to replace and/or patch a tube and a chain breaker. Taking some basic medicine to fix sores is also a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drink plenty of water, eat well, take care of the traffic, and you will be fine.&#xA;There's nothing much else to recommend, 180 kms is not extremely long distance and no need to stress out about it too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.: forgot to write at first, a very important tip about touring. Keep attention on your cadence! If you run 30 km with cadence too low you won't notice much difference. If you run 150 with too low cadence, you will be unable to walk for a while. Avoid starting from lights too quickly and applying too much force onto pedals, conserve your power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13097" LastEditorUserId="13097" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T03:50:24.423" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T03:50:24.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34385" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T13:22:11.633" Score="0" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I bought a mountain bike with hydraulic disk brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I ride it the front wheel makes screaming sounds, possibly from the disk brake. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contacted my local dealer and they helped me adjusting the brakes, and I even learn how to do it also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it seems the problem happens more than once, every time after I put back the front wheel and start riding. The problem is frustrating; I need about 5 minutes to adjust the brake and tyres every time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do, should I replace anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22570" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T13:32:00.400" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T13:32:00.400" Title="Screaming sounds on my front wheel" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-09-15T01:01:49.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T14:45:23.827" Score="17" ViewCount="24565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a bike. The road bikes look very gorgeous. However I noticed that they come without fenders to protect from water! I was really surprised for that actually and that made me wonder about how do people protect themselves when driving on wet roads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When one drives on a wet road then you get smashed by water and your clothes get dirty. So how do people protect themselves when driving a road bike?! Are the tires somehow made that they prevent water? Or what is the secret?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T09:18:03.797" Title="How do people ride road bikes without fenders?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;winter&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34386" CreationDate="2015-09-13T15:00:40.407" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some road bikes have fender eyelets on the fork and near the rear dropouts (newer eyelets are a bit hidden to preserve the aesthetic on some models). You just buy the fenders and put them on. I'd say most non-race bikes will have them, and ones which are commonly used for commuting or touring will almost definitely have them. Then you buy a set of fenders, and bolt them on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use clip on mudguards and fenders (e.g. to the seatpost), like the SKS X-board and SKS X-tra dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This style clips onto the downtube in lieu of a front fender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PjfWA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PjfWA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This style clips onto the seatpost as a rear fender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWqUD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OWqUD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another style is this (from Planet Bike):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1C91P.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1C91P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These don't provide all the benefits of a proper fender (e.g. protecting the drivetrain) but block some of the mud and water and can be mounted on any bike, even a mountain bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yDCnd.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yDCnd.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, some people just get wet and dirty or don't take their road bikes out in the rain. Note that road bikes generally don't throw up as much crud up as mountain bikes since their tires are smaller. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My road bike has a SKS X-tra Dry seatpost rear fender, and the front is just plain. It uses 700x28 tires, and I find that the front doesn't throw all that much up that I care about it too much. The rear is pretty well covered by the seatpost fender, so I don't have skunk stripe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T15:00:40.407" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T17:16:23.487" Score="6" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had to take the front gear off of my bike and had some difficulty undoing the bolts. Because of their poor condition, I have decided to replace them. However, I have no idea what they are called. I've included a couple photos that show the bolts themselves and the holes they are meant to fill. I had to saw the end of one of them off to get it out, and the Allen key holes are circular, so really they do need replacing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qbJqX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qbJqX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/68YIg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/68YIg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the chainring, sans bolts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22572" LastEditorUserId="22572" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T23:56:06.733" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T23:56:06.733" Title="What is the name of this type of bolt for the front crank on my bike?" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;touring-bikes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34388" CreationDate="2015-09-13T17:18:49.173" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're called simply chainring bolts. The tool to hold the other part while tightening is chainring bolt wrench.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5LNUk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5LNUk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chainring bolt wrench&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T23:55:10.223" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T23:55:10.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34386" CreationDate="2015-09-13T17:46:34.597" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most road bikes are the equivalent of an open-top racing car. You just don't ride them in the rain. And if you do, you are expected to be hard core enough that a little rain isn't worth the weight and aerodynamic drag that the fenders would cause. And there's also a reason that hardcore racers wear sunglasses during the day or transparent glasses in the evening -- they help keep bugs and rain out of your eyes. And as many people note, you'll be soaking wet from sweat anyway if you're riding hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there are some slim fenders that can attach to &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; road bikes -- although many/most road bikes currently being sold come without fender eyelets and are so aerodynamic that there isn't enough space between the wheel and forks/stays to put a fender that would work a darn. If you want fenders but like the road bike drop-bar style, look at expedition/touring bikes or cyclocross bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you're like many people, you instead have a beater commuter with fenders that you ride in the rain and you keep your gorgeous carbon fiber racer for sunny days. One can never have &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/23853/when-do-i-need-more-than-one-bike-how-many-bike-is-enough-how-many-bikes-is-to?s=1%7C2.6924&quot;&gt;too many bikes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T21:56:28.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34282" CreationDate="2015-09-13T17:56:24.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The frame size and shape could be an issue too. Some frames transfer your effort more efficiently than others. And some frames may do the transfer less efficiently when standing than when sitting. Have you tried stand-pedaling on a different bike? Try borrowing one, you may decide that it is time to buy a different frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22535" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T17:56:24.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T19:05:44.957" Score="1" ViewCount="4127" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my outer chain ring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently running a 50t, I'm pretty sure it's a 130 BCD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering a SRAM Outer chain ring as a replacement. I assume as long as measurements are the same I Should be OK. The description says (not for 2012+ 'New-Red' cranks with hidden-bolt spider) so that's positive I think for my purpose.&#xA;Here's the info on the SRAM ring I'm looking at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://prntscr.com/8fwk1u&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://prntscr.com/8fwk1u&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4051" LastEditorUserId="4051" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T17:23:53.263" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T17:23:53.263" Title="Can I replace my Shimano outer chain ring with a SRAM?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;&lt;sram&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34386" CreationDate="2015-09-13T19:52:57.237" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will get wet if you ride at speed on a wet road without fenders. I think you can find fenders to fit almost any road bike if you want them, but otherwise I can think a few things that mitigate the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change clothes shortly after the end of the ride, and wash and dry yourself if facilities are available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear tight cycling clothes. You will still be wet, but you won't have the sensation of repeatedly touching wet fabric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear clothes made with fabrics designed not to hold much water and to dry quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wear waterproof / water resistant clothing, ideally breathable to allow water vapour from sweat to escape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put lots of energy into cycling. This will generate heat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12583" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T19:52:57.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34393" CreationDate="2015-09-13T21:47:07.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the chainring, but each brand (Shimano, SRAM, etc...) aligns the shifting ramps and pins to work best with their own brands inner rings. So the indexed shifting will not be as fast/smooth as when you would use the same brand of rings together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inner rings frequently have individual teeth shaped so that the chain will lift off and drop down faster in certain positions. These teeth are lined up with the ramps and pins on the outer ring, to facilitate faster/smoother shifting. If you pair a SRAM outer with your Shimano inner, these teeth will not line up correctly. It won't make the shifting not work, but it will just not work &lt;em&gt;as well&lt;/em&gt;. The X-Glide road rings are also designed for 11-speed, Yaw front shifting; your're paying for tech/features that your bike can't fully utilize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you are right, X-glide rings do not come in 50T, 130BCD combinations. You'd have to go with a 53 or larger size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/chainring&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;chainring&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;chainring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sram&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sram&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sram&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/yaw&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;yaw&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;yaw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/compatibility&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;compatibility&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;compatibility&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22563" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T22:23:01.840" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T22:23:01.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34354" CreationDate="2015-09-13T22:14:33.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Title says wheel alignment but question says you removed and reinstalled the tyre.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check alignmnent with your fingers - the space between the rim and the forks should be equal and consistant while the wheel rotates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the wheel rotate less freely?   Could be you've accidentally upset the cups on the axle.  Test this by wiggling the rim left and right.  It should have minimal movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the wheel spin okay when its off the ground (like in a stand) but badly when its being ridden?   Did you put sufficient air back in the tube?   May be simply low pressure increasing rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally - why did you remove the front tyre?  Was there a problem with it?  Did you refit the same one or did you replace it with another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T22:14:33.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T22:31:35.643" Score="2" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hybrid bike recently got a piece of glass through my rear tire and innertube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought both a new tire and innertube (700x35c schrader).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I filled up both tires to 65psi.  A week later the front tire had 57 psi but the rear tire was at 30.  The same thing has been happening for a couple of weeks now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can cause this?  Did I just cause a small hole while installing the innertube?  Is the solution to just replace the innertube again and hope it doesn't happen in the future?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8830" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T23:53:37.540" Title="Why does rear tire lose 35 psi in a week with new innertube and tire?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;inflation&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32474" CreationDate="2015-09-13T22:37:21.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two (or three) very specific issues that are causing this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is the cable housing is not routed correctly. For both derailleurs, there should be an open run of exposed cable along the downtube; the rear derailleur should have an open run going out to the rear derailleur as well. It looks like the stop for this, which should be clamped near the top of the downtube is missing, so the previous owner zip tied/taped the continuous run housing. Long runs of housing like this, especially with plastic shifters, lead to poor shifting, which is causing the &quot;soft&quot; shifting. That little U-shaped bracket near the rear derailleur: &lt;strong&gt;cable stop&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second is the shifter itself. If you shift, and the lever simply springs back into place, then the little bolt on the side of the lever needs to be tightened. If you shift and the lever stays in place, you need to loosen the bolt holding the cable into place, and make sure that there is no slack in the &lt;strong&gt;cable&lt;/strong&gt;. If there is, pull the cable tight, and bolt it back into place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Regarding the rear derailleur not working correctly in all speeds:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;    That is a Shimano Positron derailleur, which used a solid wire rather than a twisted cable for shifting. It looks like the wire has been replaced with a cable, which will not work properly at all. Spare wires have not been available for 20+ years, as Positron was considered a failure and discontinued rather quickly. This is definitely the nexus of the poor rear shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this is not my usual position on repairs, I would recommend replacing both derailleurs and shifters. When you do, make sure that you add a cable stop to the downtube, so that the cables can be routed correctly. A good shop should have the required parts, or be able to do the work correctly for you. &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/maintenance&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;maintenance&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;maintenance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/positron&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;positron&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;positron&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/shifting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;shifting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;shifting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22563" LastEditorUserId="22563" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T23:42:59.067" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T23:42:59.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11031" CreationDate="2015-09-13T22:58:40.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the phrase &quot;Primary Hand&quot; instead of Right/Left would clear up a lot of confusion regardless of the technology of your brake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to stop as fast as possible, you use your front brake, and modulate the stop by subtly varying the pressure.  The best hand for this job is &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; strongest hand which is frequently your preferred hand, or the right hand for 70-90% of the population.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So set your brakes up that the front brake is your primary hand.  For shared bikes, the front should be the right side by default, or the levers need labelling and/or a small percentage should be set up as left-handed bikes.  Same idea as some left-handed scissors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't matter if your brakes are hydraulic or bowen cable, cantilevers/disks/caliper or whatever.  Your bike is for you, and should be set up for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T02:25:19.960" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T02:25:19.960" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34397" CreationDate="2015-09-13T23:32:57.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A possible (even likely) cause is a leaking valve. The simplest thing to do first is to see if blowing air out if the valve (by depressing the pin) solves the problem. You wouldn't see the dust if it was there; the only way to know is to inflate the tire and wait a few days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't solve it, or you are less patient than that, go straight to the next step: remove the tire and tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When removing the tire, use some chalk or some other means of knowing how it was mounted on the wheel (regarding the valve position and which is the drive side). With the tube, also take notice of which way around it is on the wheel. Now, if you find a hole in the tube you know where to look for the cause in the tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the tube and check for the leak by immersing the entire tube in a tub of water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be patient, because the leak is slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have pinched the tube when replacing it (common, but usually leaks faster). But more likely, you still have some glass in the tire. Line the tube up with the tire and check carefully. Patch the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I really suspect the valve. From my limited experience with Schrader valves they a more prone to leak, especially if used without valve caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possible causes are a foreign body onside the tire or something (eg a spoke) protruding from the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T23:32:57.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15930" CreationDate="2015-09-13T23:51:57.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use some heat shrink tubing (&lt;a href=&quot;http:////amzn.com/B005W42SW2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;) to keep the frayed cable together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a heat gun, most heat shrink tubing can be shrunk with a hot hair dryer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22576" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T23:53:58.690" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T23:53:58.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34397" CreationDate="2015-09-13T23:53:37.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other users have hit just about all the points except one relatively common cause: your rim strips may have shifted thus exposing the sharp spoke holes on the inside of the rim, puncturing your tire. You can check for this by submerging your inner tube in water, and looking for any place that you see bubbling characteristic of air loss (you should always do this anyways). If the bubbling is on the inner portion of the tube, it would indicate a spoke-hole puncture. Replace or repair your inner-tube, and replace your rim strip if this is the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22577" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T23:53:37.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32968" CreationDate="2015-09-14T00:00:36.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano Alfine hubs have a specific requirements for axle nut tightening. First, &lt;strong&gt;grease the axle nuts&lt;/strong&gt;! Because the nuts are domed, they can accumulate grit inside them, and hold less securely over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the nuts have a minimum torque range of &lt;strong&gt;30 ft/lbs&lt;/strong&gt;. This is important, since if they are too loose, the non-turn washers can move and dig into your frame and axle. This can eventually lead to enough wear that the axle can rotate slightly in the dropout under heavy load, causing rapid wear to the hub's internals, which can lead to....a hub that is noisy and worn out well before its time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22563" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T00:00:36.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34354" CreationDate="2015-09-14T00:06:08.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your rim isn't centered on the hub then putting it back on &quot;backwards&quot; (reversing the wheel so that what had been the right side was now the left side) will change the way the bike tracks down the road. I suppose this could result in the handling difference you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't do this with disk brakes, but if you have rim brakes it would be an easy thing to do. If the difference in centering is significant you might also find that the brakes drag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T00:06:08.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25892" CreationDate="2015-09-14T00:21:42.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The superior modulation that most disc systems have is due to the hydraulic actuation not the fact that they are discs.  Traditional Bowden cables have a lot of inherent friction.  Hydraulic rim brakes such as the Magura brakes (for many years the first choice for trials riders) and the more recent Sram hydraulic rim brakes have better modulation than any of the top end disc setups I have used.  Unless deep mud is part of your ride or you need rim flex such as in mountain biking, hydraulic rim brakes are superior to discs in every way.  Here's hoping the road disc fad dies quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22578" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T00:21:42.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34410" CreationDate="2015-09-14T00:24:27.023" Score="3" ViewCount="5209" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a bike I've owned for 15 years. The bike came with a quill stem, but now that I'm riding it more and more I want to buy a stem adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd like to raise the handle bar (presumably so I can be in the drops more). Length is another factor. I'm on the fence about length right now. Anything so that I can get the right fit to the bike. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and if possible lose some weight on the bike at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the major things I should look out for when shifting to a stem adapter? Is it worth the expense? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not looking to buy a new bike if I can avoid it. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21300" LastEditorUserId="21300" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T19:08:33.207" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T21:27:02.837" Title="Switching from a quill stem to an stem adapter?" Tags="&lt;stem&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30773" CreationDate="2015-09-14T00:35:52.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be too late (just joined StackExchange), but the reason that Pitlock does not recommend using their skewers in any horizontal type dropout is in the configuration of washers between the &amp;quot;cup&amp;quot; of the rotating end, and the Pit inside the &amp;quot;cup&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please refer to the photograph below; all numbers begin from the left side of the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iew5F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iew5F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pitlock Seat Binder&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The toothed washer (3rd) grips the hex flats on the end cap (6th), which passes through both the cup (5th) and the nylon washer (4th). If the Pit (2nd) is torqued down too much, it can cause the toothed washer to deform to the point where it no longer grips the end cap. It can also dig too deeply through the nylon washer and eventually secure some purchase against the cup. This would allow a would-be thief to be able to grip the cup with some sort of pliers and potentially loosen the Pit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid this (and this is not common, but any locking skewer only works correctly if used correctly), Pitlock does not recommend any torque on their skewers above 10Nm. A wheel held at this torque in a horizontal or semi-horizontal dropout, under heavy load, has a much higher chance of slipping. They also recommend replacement of the toothed/nylon washers over time to avert this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can over-clamp a skewer to avoid this. If you still want security skewers, I would go with Delta locking skewers, and white-glue a ball bearing into the 5mm hex head opening. You can torque them down to your heart's desire, and still have a good measure of security.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pitlock&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pitlock&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pitlock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/security&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;security&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;security&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/quick-release&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;quick-release&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;quick-release&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/hub&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;hub&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;hub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22563" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T00:35:52.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34408" CreationDate="2015-09-14T00:47:55.163" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quill stems are in general better for adjustment -- you have far more height adjustment than using a quill to threadless adapter like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFjG7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFjG7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably end up combining the threadless adapter with an adjustable stem like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gLmWd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gLmWd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in order to tweak the adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do make adjustable quill stems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jBjxr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jBjxr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which will give you more adjustability for height and position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weight of your stem is negligible compared to the rest of the bike (and you), so the weight savings are inconsequential unless you're some top end racer (in which case, you probably want a new bike). So its pointless to do this for weight savings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you need to look for in either option (threadless adapter + adjustable threadless stem or adjustable quill stem) are the clamp diameter (where the bar is gripped by the stem) and the diameter of the adapter or quill stem (i.e. the part which goes into the bike). If the diameter of the adapter or quill is different, the stem or adapter obviously won't fit in the bike and won't work. If the clamp diameter is different, you'll need to buy new handlebars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a stem only provides a bit of adjustment -- you may find that neither of them can make the bike fit for you in which case you need a different bike. I'd probably opt for the adjustable quill, since you can adjust the height more and in net it will probably be a bit cheaper if not about the same as the threadless adapter + adjustable threadless stem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: In the comments, Fred the Magic Wonder Dog has pointed out &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.somafab.com/sohiristad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soma&lt;/a&gt; makes a super long threadless adapter (nearly a foot in length!). This would give you a good deal of height adjustment to which you can use an adjustable threadless stem. All in all though, I think both options will end up costing about the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T21:27:02.837" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T21:27:02.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32772" CreationDate="2015-09-14T00:52:26.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To align the caliper, loosen the caliper bolts and bring the fixed cpad as close as possible to the rotor without rubbing. Then dial in the fixed pad so that it is as close as possible without rubbing. Then install your cable/housing, and begin adjusting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To improve brake feel, pre-stretch your cable before making adjustments. Take the wheel out, out a pad spacer in (Pedro's tire lever works great, or any other non-metal object), and squeeze the lever as hard as you can ten times. This will seat the housing into the ferrules, as well as stretch the cable out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pads are sitting in a &quot;V&quot;, then the brake pad spring most likely needs replacing. You could also try spreading it open a bit first, but the springs are so cheap that it's worth it just to get new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. The Alfine dynamo actually uses loose ball bearings, making it re-packable. It's tricky, due to the wiring connectors, but it's nice to be able to do it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001CJYY3C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Avid Brake Pad Spring&quot;&gt;Avid Brake Pad Spring&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22563" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T00:52:26.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34437" CreationDate="2015-09-14T04:42:09.683" Score="3" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Schwinn Super Sport circa 1966, that came to me as a single speed, so I have never seen a derailleur on it. When I put this SunTour derailleur on it - mid 70s I think, came off a Peugeot - the b-screw hits the Schwinn's derailleur hanger body, not the b-screw stop, as you can see in the picture. The stop seems way further forward on the Schwinn than the Peugeot. However, a modern Shimano XT derailleur seems to fit the Schwinn fine . . . I just was hoping for something  approximately period appropriate. What's going on here? Are the different style derailleur hangers? How can I know what derailleurs will fit the Schwinn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the mismatch:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8g0Ty.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;schwinn and suntour mismatch?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can rotate it so it hits the stop, but the derailleur position looks like it would not work, the b-screw is all the way out, not really hitting the stop dead-on, and the derailleur cage is hitting the seat stay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TgFwb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TgFwb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mismatch part 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this Deore XT derailleur seems to have a longer or slightly further-out b-screw that hits properly. I haven't put a chain on it to check, but this looks like it would work. So I want something that works like this, but is from the 60s-80s, 10-speed road era.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gmvZ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gmvZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;why does this work?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastEditorUserId="2611" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T21:57:47.863" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T05:16:18.310" Title="B-screw hitting derailleur hanger" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29512" CreationDate="2015-09-14T05:37:41.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess the ferrule popped out on its own, under braking?  Sounds like either the ferrule has deformed to fit through the gap in the brake lever, or the brake lever has deformed to allow the ferrule through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the interests of stopping when you want to, I'd fit brand new brake cables.  If they're tired, consider all-new housings too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fit the ferrule into the lever first, then thread the wire through to the brake, fasten and adjust tension.  Re-tension a couple times in the next week for cable stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T05:37:41.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34282" CreationDate="2015-09-14T05:43:25.383" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;standing while pedaling should not necessarily be harder than sitting - it depends on how you're doing it. if you're in a hard gear, and/or cycling up hill, it may in fact be easier to stand while pedaling so that you can exert more downward pressure on the pedals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22576" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T05:43:25.383" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34419" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T09:50:22.933" Score="2" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to put my old SRM amateur chainset on my indoor trainer bike, then charged the SRM V unit, but its not working after the charge. I've not used it in 3 years so not surprised, and Im guessing the strain gauge battery is dead too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - is it worth resurrecting this since the error margin is 5%? Where can this be done in the UK and how much would it cost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19935" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T17:33:01.690" Title="Resurrecting an old style SRM Amateur power meter?" Tags="&lt;power&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-12-14T15:02:38.323" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32607" CreationDate="2015-09-14T10:03:38.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What sort of damage did it do? IF it was cosmetic it might not be covered. I was hit by a car once and the damage wasn't severe enough to be compensated. It will be hard to estimate value of the bike without knowing the make and model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, from your description it looks like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.miyatabike.com/project/japon__/en_bike_themiyata.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Miyata&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To estimate the value of the bike is another matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I value my bicycle?&#xA;  If the model year of the bike is less than 1 year you should insure the bike for purchase price. Bikes with earlier model years should be insured for fair market value, or what it would cost you to purchase the same modeled year bike as your original bike. *velosurance.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can search &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicyclebluebook.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bicycle Blue book&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your bike is in the database it will be a good estimate for it's current insurance value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked out Wikipedia and found a guide to Miyata serial numbers to verify the claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The serial numbers for Miyata Bicycles Made in Japan Since 1972, according with the first letter on the serial number:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A 1972 B 1973 C1974 D1975 E1976 F 1977 G 1978 H 1979 I 1980 J 1981 K&#xA;  1982 L 1983 M 1984 N 1985 O 1986 P 1987&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q 1988 R 1989 S 1990 T 1991 U 1992 V 1993 W 1994 X 1995 Y 1996 Z 1997&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miyata is known for making frames for other companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21300" LastEditorUserId="21300" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T19:30:15.683" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T19:30:15.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24127" CreationDate="2015-09-14T10:55:42.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just follow the twister shifter instructions, but attach the cable to the CTD actuator (same as the current remote is currently attached, on the blue actuator on the shock), instead of the front derralieur. Adjust tension as necessary using the barrel on the gripshift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding a SRAM front derraileur 3-position twister shifter might be hard these days (I think they only sell rear derraileur shifters now, since 1 chainring is the current &quot;fashion&quot;) but if you find it... it's just a cable tensioner, same as the CTD remote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22587" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T10:55:42.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T11:45:30.100" Score="-1" ViewCount="2182" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to this, and I'm on the fence which to buy.  Will be training for long distance riding soon. I'm looking at buying Giant brand, but not sure which will be better - carbon or aluminum. Thx! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22565" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T16:19:56.450" Title="Which is better for endurance riding - carbon or aluminum? Or does it really even matter?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-09-15T12:33:45.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34422" CreationDate="2015-09-14T11:59:10.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carbon is always lighter (thus, requires less effort to move) than aluminum, and more confortable (since it's a bit more flexible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can afford the price difference, hell yeah, go with carbon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said: if price is an obstacle, aluminum will be just fine, and the weight savings on the frame is not as much as some will tell you (it depends on the actual bike and the type and amount of carbon fibers used)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22587" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T11:59:10.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34282" CreationDate="2015-09-14T12:01:43.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started riding again, after many years, standing was &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; hard – like couldn't do it hard. My legs ached as soon as I started and it was really hard to control the bike. Now, a year and change later, I almost enjoy it. I often stand to push up the last part of a hill or to do a short hill without shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to find opportunities to push your self (maybe without standing), notice the signs of getting fitter and from time to time do a bit of standing. I think you'll find that it gets easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure you're in a high enough gear when you stand. I find that if the gear is too low standing is much harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T12:01:43.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34674" CreationDate="2015-09-14T12:04:32.543" Score="1" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for how to carry a B.o.B. Yak (or Ibex) on a roof rack? I drive a small station wagon and the trailer is a bit big to fit comfortably in the car with our other gear when we travel with the bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RY8Uk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RY8Uk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T22:14:58.963" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T18:33:29.370" Title="B.o.B Yak Trailer on car" Tags="&lt;trailer&gt;&lt;transportation&gt;&lt;transport-by-car&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34422" CreationDate="2015-09-14T12:09:08.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own both carbon and aluminum bikes and have ridden them for at least several thousand kilometers, but I think it'd be pretty much depended on what purpose the bike is made for. Even If your is a flagship carbon model and for racing, even used by UCI pro team riders, costs more than 5000 €, it could be a bit too &quot;stiff&quot; for average riders. Likewise, you can get an aluminum framesets that is indeed softer than decent carbon framesets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd suggest you try some of bikes the manufacturers claim as &quot;endurance&quot; or &quot;comfort&quot; models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14337" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T12:09:08.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T13:31:28.573" Score="2" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fixed gear BTwin My Bike White.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to upgrade but the resale value is too low for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was thinking of adding gears to it which might click the real deal for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I convert it to a 3 speed front crankset and 5 speed rear gear bicycle? (in total 15 speed bike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T06:27:48.690" Title="Changing Crankset on a bicycle" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34430" CreationDate="2015-09-14T13:40:44.593" Score="2" ViewCount="9009" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the shimano sis rear derailleur which needs fixing. I took it off the wheel while I was fixing the puncture in the rear wheel. Now I am not able to fix it. It keeps coming off when I am pedaling especially while going on the hills.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bMi1v.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bMi1v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the fitting end is not a ring. So it comes off easily. Also there is small bolt, not sure what it name is, is blocking the derailiuer going fully into the axle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZVIE7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZVIE7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need help please. Until this is fixed, I cant use the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21019" LastActivityDate="2019-12-07T11:36:15.790" Title="Shimano SIS Rear derailleur fixing problem" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T14:13:28.563" Score="1" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that we've for the most part made the transition to metric on contemporary bicycles -- at least for the tools we use to repair them, am I right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, while many screw &lt;em&gt;threads&lt;/em&gt; are still imperial (or whitworth or some bizarre French/Italian/British concoction), the actual fastener heads or shanks are metric. For example, pedals are  9/16&quot; x 20 tpi  but we've standardized on 15 mm for the pedal wrench (or a metric allen). Solid axles might be 9mm x 26 tpi but again we've standardize on 15mm for the nut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any parts of non-BSO bikes coming off the line where we might still expect to still need a &lt;strong&gt;non-metric tool&lt;/strong&gt; to take a component off of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T14:31:25.833" Title="What non-metric fastener heads are left on a standard bicycle?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34428" CreationDate="2015-09-14T14:19:42.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you need to do is ensure that the plate which the small bolt is attached to is located in the frame dropout. You should see one side of it is curved to match up to the drop out. You'll need either a Philips screwdriver or a 9mm wrench to tighten the bolt and hold your reach mech in place. I've attached a photo from Shimano's tech doc illustrating what I mean. Once the rear mech is back in place, tighten your wheel nut up and ensure the wheel is central in the frame, this type of design allows the wheel to occasionally slip to one side when you're tightening it, causing the rim/tyre to rub on the brake or frame. If you're using a torque wrench to tighten these parts then the mech bolt is 4nm and the rear wheel is around 32nm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3z5H4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3z5H4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bracket type rear derailleur&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14002" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T14:19:42.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34429" CreationDate="2015-09-14T14:31:25.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very rare, but I believe some pedals still require a 9/16&quot; spanner to remove them. Not to be confused with the 9/16&quot; axle like you have mentioned. Park Tool still make a pedal spanner with both a 15mm and 9/16&quot; opening. Considering 9/16&quot; of an inch is 14.3mm and the chances you'll actually have to remove one are fairly slim, I'd be happy with just a standard 15mm pedal spanner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond this I can't think of anything else. Perhaps wheel nuts on very cheap kids character bikes? Some of those seem to come with whatever the factory had going spare at the time of assembly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14002" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T14:31:25.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34372" CreationDate="2015-09-14T15:02:16.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The proper tools shouldn't cost more than £60. If you think you'll be needing them in the future then it may be worth while investing in them as £60 is roughly the cost of having a shop do it twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to buy the correct tools you can knock the bearings out easily enough with a block of wood and a hammer. Considering this is likely the source of the creaking then I wouldn't worry too much about damaging the BB further during removal. Reinstalling the new BB can be done with a length of threaded rod, some large washers and some nuts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know which style of pressfit BB you have? PF30, BB86 etc? You should be able to find the tools you need locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14002" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2019-08-04T03:01:51.907" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T03:01:51.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34419" CreationDate="2015-09-14T15:23:11.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if the error is 5%, it's still a power meter. I would get it fixed either to use personnaly or to sell it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T15:23:11.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34422" CreationDate="2015-09-14T16:04:57.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to spend up to $4000 then put titanium in the mix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opinion on durability of carbon varies. By many measures carbon is stronger and more durable than aluminum.  But there are people that feel carbon is fragile and the right answer is I agree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For race you are going to see a lot of carbon for weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Training is a different.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the ride (and weight) of a carbon but for my money aluminum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want to clamp anything on carbon so if you want to maybe mount a rack some day then no carbon.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Titanium is a little lighter than aluminum, more durable, and has nicer ride.  Aluminum will fatigue.  You can mount a rack to titanium.  Could also use the bike for light touring. It would not be called an endurance bike but it would be nice for long distance training. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to go up to $4000 then clear the field and don't limit yourself to Giant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For long distance training you could get a very nice aluminum for $1200.  Maybe even consider used.  It is going to take some long distance training for you to know what you want in a long distance training bike.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T16:19:56.450" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T16:19:56.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34415" CreationDate="2015-09-14T19:11:48.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it was a high end Schwinn frame of that era it was meant to be used with a Campy NR derailluer that did not have a b-screw adjustment. See the back of one &#xA;here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;amp;g2_itemId=30033&amp;amp;g2_serialNumber=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&amp;amp;g2_itemId=30033&amp;amp;g2_serialNumber=2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zi95w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zi95w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suntour slant-parallelogram derailluer was actually a technological innovation at the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the more I look at it, the more it looks to me like the dropout might&#xA;have been machined in some way. My campy equipped bike from that era has the stop at roughly perpendicular to the slot for the axle in the dropout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T19:11:48.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34415" CreationDate="2015-09-14T21:57:16.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upon further research it seems that in 1966, Schwinn was using Huret dropouts, which have a different configuration than modern derailleur hangers, which are based on a Campagnolo design. So the options are to get a Huret derailleur, or make an adapter like &lt;a href=&quot;http://bronzegears.blogspot.com/2008/11/schwinn-sports-tourer-build-drivetrain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one made from a washer&lt;/a&gt; or look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/853703-huret-dropouts-derailleur-options.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; for some other options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2611" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T05:16:18.310" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T05:16:18.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T22:26:58.350" Score="2" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, a while back when I was rebuilding my vintage Shogun 6-speed, I realized that I only use 2- 3 gears on my commutes to and from school, crew, and other daily rides. The next day, I went to my local used bike parts dealer and bought a 10 speed cassette, the type that has the 3 screw- in pins on the back and plastic spacers, and tried different variations of 3 non- lockring gears; one large gear, one medium gear, and a medium- small gear, which with the required 2 lockring cogs makes 5 total cogs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, what I was wondering about is if it is physically possible to have a gearset like this; would the gaps between gears be too big? Is there any way possible to make a 4- 5 speed gearset, and not have the chain fall in between gears or not be able to grab the next one at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'll upload pics soon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22595" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T22:31:54.737" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T00:34:20.720" Title="3- 5 gear special gearset?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34443" CreationDate="2015-09-14T22:38:41.413" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering will disk brakes fit my bike, the Apollo Verge men's mountain bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22597" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T23:14:30.520" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T01:26:11.070" Title="Will disk brakes fit on the Apollo Verge" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-09-15T12:36:49.807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T22:49:00.163" Score="0" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a brand new Fuji Nevada and I've had a horrible experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed skipping while pedaling and found a stuck chain link. No matter how much or hard I wiggle it, it won't loosen up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice before taking it back to the shop? Frankly I want to return the bike. I'm so annoyed! It cost me a lot of money too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22598" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T23:09:20.280" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T02:09:44.647" Title="Brand new bike with a stuck chain link" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T01:11:38.300" Score="5" ViewCount="9435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a new Polygon Strada 5.0 mountain bike with Shimano BR-M355 hydraulic disc brakes and have had issues with the brakes rubbing. I fixed the rub but now it is happening again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fixing process takes time and I'm asking if there are any suggestions/ideas on how to prevent this from happening again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22570" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T04:52:36.660" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T14:33:50.487" Title="How do I prevent the Hydraulic Disc Brakes on my bike from rubbing?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34440" CreationDate="2015-09-15T01:12:09.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree if the bike is new and has not been abused the  shop repair it for free. I have repaired several &quot;new&quot; bikes with a sticking link. I generally remove the affected link and replace it with a master link for a chain of the correct size. Total cost under $5 if you already have a chain tool. I don't know why it happens, perhaps just a manufacturing defect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T01:12:09.320" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34439" CreationDate="2015-09-15T01:26:11.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the pictures I was able to find online, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/mountain-bikes/apollo-verge-mens-mountain-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Apollo Verge&lt;/a&gt; I agree with the commenters that it does not appear to have mounting holes for disc brakes.  It has a couple holes on the rear above the dropout where the stays meet, but those appear to be for fenders and a rack. They cannot be used for mounting disk brakes. The fork does not appear to have any kind of mounts for disk brakes.  The hubs of your wheels also require mounting holes for the disk.  It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it appears the hubs don't have mounting holes, and I can't imagine that they would be present on a bike of this quality that didn't come with disk brakes to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the Apollo Verge appears to be a very low end department store bike. It's probably not worth the money you would put into it to convert over to disk brakes, even for just the front as you would have to get a new fork and wheel/hub.  If you are unhappy with your braking performance, the first thing you should do is make sure everything is adjusted properly.  After that, if you are still unhappy, consider upgrading to a higher quality v-brakes. The equipment that comes on low end department store bikes is often of extremely low quality and often cannot be made to work well no matter how well it is adjusted.   Even &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-alivio-t4000-v-brake/rp-prod119943&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a lower end, but still decent&lt;/a&gt; set of brakes will probably cost you close to $40, or £30, which is about a third of the current price of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T01:26:11.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12504" CreationDate="2015-09-15T02:43:33.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Return to the past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an aluminum seat post has locked into the steel frame it can be removed with a hack saw and a another hack saw blade mounted in an end of blade handle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the regular hack saw, the blade is held at both ends, to cut off the seat post about a 1/2 of an inch above the frame. With a standard hack saw blade and end of blade handle cut the aluminum seat post vertically. You can make such a handle with part of a wooden broom handle and 2 wood screws. Cut the seat post to create a vertical split down the length of the seat post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to do this carefully. Keep the blade moving straight in and out of the seat post. Make it so the seat post is horizontal to the floor, cutting will be easier. When you have a full length 'split' you can collapse the seat post with channel lock pliers or a vice grip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once collapsed the seat post can be rotated in the frame and removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22600" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T04:18:20.203" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T04:18:20.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34441" CreationDate="2015-09-15T04:16:55.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Likely the brake caliper assembly isn't mounted quite parallel to the rotor and needs to be slightly adjusted. This is a pretty easy process that takes less then a minute to complete:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using a 5mm Allen Key, slightly loosen but do not remove the two&#xA;caliper fixing bolts so you can move the caliper assembly&#xA;side to side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depress the brake lever so the rotor is being clamped by the pads&#xA;and then re-tighten the caliper fixing bolts to 6.0 - 8.0 N.m (53.0 - 69 in. lbs.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ever need to remove the caliper assembly from the mounts (for instance to change your brake pads) you'll use a similar process to re-align the assembly to the rotor. In that case you would re-install the caliper assembly but only screw the caliper fixing bolts in part of the way and then follow step #2 above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T04:16:55.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34449" CreationDate="2015-09-15T07:09:35.620" Score="3" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm riding fixed gear with H Plus Son SL42 rims and Schwalbe Lugano.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking about changing my tires to be able to ride in snow/wet roads, but in the H Plus Son site I don't see the maximum size tire that I can fit in the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the following diagram, what's the maximum tire that could fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen some Schwalbe that look good, but they are 700x30C and 700x33C...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hyFgP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hyFgP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22601" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T12:13:36.207" Title="Snow tires for H Plus Son SL42?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34447" CreationDate="2015-09-15T08:47:53.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a complete knowledge base on fitting tires for different rim-sizes, see here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and scroll down to 'Width Considerations'.&#xA;30 or 33mm tires will fit your rims but they'll probably need a lot of pressure which might just be counter-productive on snow. On the other hand you should consider another possible issue: 30 or 33mm tires might not fit into the front fork or between the rear stays.&#xA;If they do, you might want to buy a second pair of wider wheels and use the wider tires on these. It will keep your 'Summer' wheels nice and shiny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T08:47:53.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12504" CreationDate="2015-09-15T09:41:07.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your seat post is dead- don't bother trying to save it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got one out by crushing the end of the seat post in a vice with the bike upside-down. Then asking two people to twist the bike frame around while I hauled on a block and tackle to raise the bike up off the seat post.  The saddle was already removed and the tackle was fastened back and forth around the bottom bracket, to spread the load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T09:41:07.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34447" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:13:36.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So guessing from the figure they have something like 17mm width on the inside. A bit more than twice the (interior) width is usually okay for tires. So you could safely go up to ~35mm if your frame and brakes have enough clearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are probably considering the Schwalbe Racing Ralph, which are not bad, but if you have the money I’d recommend Michelin Mud2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T12:13:36.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32589" CreationDate="2015-09-15T12:28:04.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I'd collect some (US centric) links to help find this kind of bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=bicycle+coaster+brake+-repair+-review&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google&lt;/a&gt; shows many people sell bikes with coaster brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwinnbikes.com/usa/bikes/cruisers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Schwinn&lt;/a&gt; has a wide selection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.huffybikes.com/products/womens-bikes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Huffy&lt;/a&gt; also has a good selection.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.target.com/s?searchTerm=ladies+cruiser&amp;amp;category=0|All|matchallpartial|all+categories&amp;amp;lnk=snav_sbox_ladies+cruiser&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Target&lt;/a&gt; stocks many.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kmart.com/search=ladies%20cruiser%20bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kmart&lt;/a&gt; does too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of these bikes are quite cheap, and qualify as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/887/8273&quot;&gt;BSOs&lt;/a&gt;. You get what you pay for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T12:28:04.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34474" CreationDate="2015-09-15T14:19:58.343" Score="0" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just installed SRAM Rival shifters and a FD on my touring bike. However, I'm having an issue with very hard shifting. The right/rear shifts fine (teamed with X7 RD). &lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have to push excessively hard for it to shift to the big ring. Then when I want to drop it to the small ring, again, I have to push hard and it lets loose with 2 very loud, jarring clicks.  I have Rival on my race bike so I KNOW that's not normal.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It almost feels as if the limiter is in too far, not allowing it to reach full throw, but if I let out the limiter, it overshifts and drops the chain. The shifter works fine when the cable is detached.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;The previous setup was an ultegra 9sp clamp-on FD. I bought an Origin8 Braze-on Clamp on which to mount the Rival FD.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm just afraid I might break the DT blade off over time.  Any ideas on how to remedy this, or what might be causing it? The only thing I can think of is that maybe the Braze-on clamp displaces the FD too far outboard.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22608" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T11:45:00.863" Title="Hard shifting on SRAM Rival FD shifter" Tags="&lt;shifter&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T14:56:05.560" Score="2" ViewCount="1549" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mountain commuter (2008 Schwinn High Timber) has picked up a vibration in the front wheel under braking.  I'm worried that this is a sign that the rim is end of life.  I checked the V-brakes and they do have some slight play front to back (about a 1 mm at the top of the brake arms), but the bolts for them are still tight.  I have found a few spots on the wheel that looks like a pit, or possibly environmental damage, but not enough of them to justify the vibration.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that a rim will warp into a wavy pattern (I highly doubt it)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rim does not have a wear indicator when new, but will they put something in the rim that will be exposed when worn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a Alex &quot;X101&quot; (best geuss) Rim single wall alloy, but since it is a BSO OEM, it isn't listed on the website.  I have put 15000 km on it with 2/3 of it being daily commuting.   My commute home involves braking from speeds of 50 kph for red lights and a turn on a 3.5 km stretch.  I have to ride the brakes for a short but steep downhill section while escorting the kids home.  The wheel is still true and the bearings are in good shape.  I'm on my 3rd set of brake pads (oem, over the counter bike shop, and now KoolStop dual compounds used for 2000km).  I'm a all weather rider, but I keep the bike clean.  I don't get to ride in nasty slushy snow, but roads are heavily salted here that will linger for weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on changing the wheels out anyways here in a few months for other reasons, but I just want to make sure I'm not going to kill myself in the mean time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastEditorUserId="19106" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T02:03:27.573" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T21:43:55.353" Title="Are braking vibrations a sign of the end of the life of a wheel?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;front&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34457" CreationDate="2015-09-15T16:45:36.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any kind of wobble or unevenness in the rim? There shouldn’t be more than about 1mm of wobble. If there is a noticeable wobble the wheel might simply need truing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the brake pads properly aligned? They should wear evenly over the whole surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can measure rim wall thickness with a caliper gauge. A sign for rim wear is also if you can measure a deformation (change in rim width) between zero and maximum tire pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T16:45:36.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T16:49:22.440" Score="5" ViewCount="7142" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you had 35mm tires (Schwalbe marathon supremes to be specific) would you get innertubes speced as 28-35mm or 35-42mm? Or whichever is cheaper? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T06:23:29.413" Title="What size innertube for 35mm tires? (or: get innertubes on the big side or small side?)" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34459" CreationDate="2015-09-15T16:52:24.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Smaller tube is better.&lt;/strong&gt; Even significantly smaller (eg. 20-25 mm inner tube in 40 mm tire) will work just fine. Other way around it might be hard to fit the tube inside the tire even before inflating tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20002" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T16:52:24.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34459" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:49:27.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be better to use a 28-35mm tube vs the larger. A smaller tube also makes it easier to install.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22611" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T17:49:27.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34472" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:05:38.040" Score="6" ViewCount="5706" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since 6 years, I am the happy user of a bicycle with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rohloff.de/&quot;&gt;Rohloff&lt;/a&gt; internal hub gear.  German quality squeezing 14 gears and a 526% gear range into the rear hub.  Less known is the newer and equally German &lt;a href=&quot;http://pinion.eu&quot;&gt;Pinion&lt;/a&gt; gear, which reportedly has 18 maintenance-free gears and a 636% gear range — all squeezed into the bottom bracket.  Wow.  The Pinion website features the logos of many high-end touring brands like Santos, Idworx, and Koga.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages and disadvantages of squeezing the gears into the bottom bracket, as opposed to into the rear hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2916" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T22:45:36.150" Title="Pros and cons of gears in bottom bracket vs. rear hub?" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-09-16T02:51:16.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34459" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:23:55.050" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Either will work&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use what your prefer.  Smaller will weigh a bit less and be easier to install.  Larger won't have the tube stretched as much, so hypothetically could survive a puncture better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T18:23:55.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34463" CreationDate="2015-09-15T18:27:52.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest pro for Pinion is the ability to easily switch between wheelsets without having to own multiple expensive hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest con (and it is a big one) for Pinion is that it requires a frame made for it.  Nearly any frame can take a Rohloff hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T22:03:18.033" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T22:03:18.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:18:21.530" Score="0" ViewCount="1418" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chromoly frames can be constructed relatively light if the quality is high enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any brands that concentrate on making modern chromoly frames for entry level competitive cycling?  i.e. litespeed is to titanium &#xA;as x is to chromoly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20588" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T01:03:03.773" Title="does anyone still make competitive chromoly frames for road biking?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;steel&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-09-16T02:50:37.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34466" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:55:04.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best place to start would be all-city:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allcitycycles.com/bikes/space_horse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.allcitycycles.com/bikes/space_horse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or Lemonde as a second option:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://lemond.cc/#!/bicycles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://lemond.cc/#!/bicycles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T19:55:04.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34469" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:55:44.447" Score="0" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a custom bike and I can spend $500-$1200 on wheels.  What are the best features on a set of road wheels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be nice if they were lightweight for climbing but I live on the flats so aerodynamics are also important.  Basically an all around road wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22617" LastEditorUserId="22617" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T02:00:29.323" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T02:14:06.200" Title="What features should I look for in a new wheelset?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;wheelset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34466" CreationDate="2015-09-15T20:56:27.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bianchi still sells the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/road/all-road/vigorelli-105/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vigorelli 105&lt;/a&gt; as well as other steel bikes. With an MSRP of $1800, it's a little pricier than some other Shimano 105 bikes on the market, but it's not too expensive as to be unreasonable.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gear/category/bikes/road/product/review-bianchi-vigorelli-15-49303/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, it weights 20.59 pounds, which isn't super light, but probably won't be a big deal at the amateur level. 105 level components are more than acceptable for entry level racing. They also have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/road/all-road/volpe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Volpe&lt;/a&gt; with Tiagra components for $1300 and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/road/all-road/lupo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lupo&lt;/a&gt; with Sora level components for $1050.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T20:56:27.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34372" CreationDate="2015-09-15T22:22:21.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out it was the rear skewer of all things causing the creaking! It seemed like it was from the bottom bracket area because it was in sync with my pedalling but I put a dab of grease near the contact points of the skewers and the noise is gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if anyone else is having similar problems, check your skewers first because it's a lot easier than taking your cranks and bottom bracket apart. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18835" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T22:22:21.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34463" CreationDate="2015-09-15T22:39:46.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advantages of the Pinion are that the weight and complexity are in the middle of the bike and not being bounced around in the hub of the rear wheel, especially for a bike with suspension (the unsprung weight is lower). Also, because it sits in a custom housing it can be whatever size and shape they want, rather than being constrained by the width of the rear hub and needing to be both circular and balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As David says, it's easier to switch the rear wheel out either when you are fixing a puncture or because you have several rear wheels (different tyres or whatever). You could take this to the extreme with a fat tyre bike and have a skinny standard 700c rear wheel for around town and a 4&quot; fat wheel for off road. I am considering this for my recumbent touring tandem, as the extra weight of a pair of spare wheels might be compensated for by the ability to switch from skinny road tyres to proper offroad tyres and wheels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more subtle advantage of the Pinion is that ground speed doesn't matter. Rohloff hubs become noticeably less efficient at high speed, but one of the places they're most desirable is in velomobiles and other speedy bikes. This is compounded by those bikes often using smaller rear wheels (406 is common, 355 is about as common as 622) which further increases the rotation speed of the hub. With a Pinion that doesn't matter, the gearbox always rotates at your pedalling speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of the Rohloff is that it's proven technology, parts are fairly widely available and the wheel will fit into a standard bike frame. Especially for long distance touring, the thought of being stuck somewhere remote with a broken Pinion is horrifying, because the only option is wait for a new gearbox or bike to be shipped to you, or give up and go home. The Rohloff alternative is both less likely (because we have seen Rohloff hubs do 100Mm trips quite often already), and less terrible (because you can convert back to derailleur gears or even single speed using standard bike parts). I'll hit 100Mm on my Rohloff in sometime the next couple of years, it's one of the early-ish ones (4 digit serial) and it's been trouble-free despite regular use in load bikes as well as touring bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom bracket gearbox has to deal with much greater torque than the hub does. Rohloff require a 2.5x gearing down between the cranks and the hub, so all the parts can be correspondingly smaller and lighter. A fit cyclist can put a surprising amount of torque into a bottom bracket, akin to a decent car engine (but at much lower rpm). Schlumpf had a problem at one stage with their sintered gears shattering in use (I experienced that), largely because they underestimated just how much force was involved. This makes the Pinion more complex to design and build for a given weight target, and probably more expensive as a result. That it can be bigger and irregularly shaped counters this to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the Pinion really can't be sold as an after-market part because you need a framebuilder to cut your bike up and fit the gearbox. It's quite possible to fit a Rohloff to almost any bike whenever you have the money available to buy one. And if the Rohloff doesn't work for you, you can take it out and sell it second hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T22:45:36.150" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T22:45:36.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34466" CreationDate="2015-09-16T01:03:03.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surly is more known for touring and off road bikes, but they do have a cromoly road bike or just hte frame &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pacer/bike_info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/pacer/bike_info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are still plenty of custom frame builders around. Zinn Cycles is in Colarado, so maybe close to you? &lt;a href=&quot;http://zinncycles.com/Zinn/index.php/test-page/classic-custom-series/merano-st&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://zinncycles.com/Zinn/index.php/test-page/classic-custom-series/merano-st&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T01:03:03.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34456" CreationDate="2015-09-16T01:46:01.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fixed.  It turns out that I had the cable running underneath the notch on the FD. I checked my other bike out and and noticed it running over top of the notch.  Once I switched it, I started shifting much more smoothly. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eEVzJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eEVzJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22608" LastEditorUserId="22608" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T11:45:00.863" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T11:45:00.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T02:08:43.557" Score="4" ViewCount="20213" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day while I was racing my Specialized Stumpjumper I noticed a chip on the frame. It's on the rear support bar right behind the seat post between the rear tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My teammate who is a mechanic said its just outer damage, they tapped along the frame without hearing a change in pitch. Others agreed. I brought it into the bike shop the next day and they said that I shouldn't ride the bike and were willing to sell me a new frame. Are they just trying to get money out of me or is it really cracked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22618" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T02:15:18.813" LastActivityDate="2019-06-22T18:23:46.163" Title="Should I worry about a chipped carbon mountain bike frame?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;&lt;advice&gt;&lt;crack&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34440" CreationDate="2015-09-16T02:09:44.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work at a shop that sells Fuji and I've built many Nevadas. I'll admit that certain models are great and the lower ones are, well.....not as great. However, I assure you that problem is not specific to that brand/model; it's a component issue. I have seen that problem before, and I just pushed the pin out and replaced it with a Shimano chain pin (relative to the speed of the chain, of course: 6,7,8Spd or 9spd  or 10spd or 11spd). A 3 pack of pins for future us should cost $5-$10 depending where you get it.  Or Master Links work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22608" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T02:09:44.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34457" CreationDate="2015-09-16T02:13:55.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a case where my front brake would stick at one point of the rim.  I complained at my local bike shop and they scrubbed the rim with a soap/degreaser suggesting it could be surface contamination.  It fixed the problem.  This is an easy and cheap thing to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T02:13:55.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34425" CreationDate="2015-09-16T03:54:20.843" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, get some tie-downs like these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VA0Lc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VA0Lc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cargo tie-down straps&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lowes.com/Hardware/Chains-Ropes-Tie-Downs/Tie-Downs/_/N-1z11olp/pl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lowes.com/Hardware/Chains-Ropes-Tie-Downs/Tie-Downs/_/N-1z11olp/pl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get them with different kinds of hooks on the ends, depending on what you have to attach them to.  If you remove the flag and perhaps the front &quot;tongue&quot; frame (which attaches to your bike), the rest of it should be no problem to secure on top of the car.  You could also remove the rear wheel to get a lower profile for the whole thing (then put the wheel in the car).  If you keep the wheel mounted, tie a strap through it so it can't spin in the wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T03:54:20.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33056" CreationDate="2015-09-16T04:03:22.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said in a comment that you switched from a 100mm stem to 120mm, this made it worse so you went back.  I suggest you try an 80mm stem, maybe it will be even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for raising the bars, you do have some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a high-rise stem.  There are plenty available, look for 25 degrees or even more.  Like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/culture/new_promoto_25_degree_stems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://salsacycles.com/culture/new_promoto_25_degree_stems&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try a riser road bar, like this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/handlebars-road/k-wing-compact-handlebar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/handlebars-road/k-wing-compact-handlebar/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lower your seat.  This raises the bars' relative position, which may help.  Don't lower the seat &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; much though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a new fork.  Either get a longer steer tube which you can put more spacers on, or get a carbon-legs, aluminum-crown model which you can use a steerer extension tube in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T04:03:22.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34475" CreationDate="2015-09-16T04:29:34.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is liability.  Any shop is likely to tell replace as they don't want the liability of it breaking and you getting hurt.  Plus they want to sell you new frame.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go with your team mate the mechanic.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See if it grows. Even if it does fracture and you fall I bet it will not be your first fall nor fatal.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T04:29:34.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34483" CreationDate="2015-09-16T04:48:46.150" Score="3" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the correct way to close Ortlieb &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/prodInfo.asp?pid=30&amp;amp;cid=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Front Roller&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ortliebusa.com/prodInfo.asp?pid=31&amp;amp;cid=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Back Roller&lt;/a&gt; panniers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a black plastic piece of plastic near the opening on the bag that is facing back if it is opened and unrolled that suggests to me that there is a correct direction. Should I roll them toward the back of the bag so the tab is covered with the very first roll or toward the front? Does it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10807" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T19:21:16.870" Title="What is the correct way to close roll-down Ortlieb panniers?" Tags="&lt;panniers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T05:23:39.423" Score="7" ViewCount="3814" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just replaced the brake pads in my BB7 disc brakes for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read up, watched videos, til I grasped what I was doing, and tried more than a handful of times. On the front brake, I can clearly see (with the wheel removed) that the pads are in a V position -- having a narrow gap further inside (the part harder to see), and a wider gap towards the outside. I assume this is just because of the way they sit around the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, while the narrow part of that gap is (barely!) wide enough for the rotor, I can't get the rotor lined up in it properly. Even when the pads are dialed all the way out, and the caliper bolts are loose, it's hard to manually align it so there's no rub. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I tried all kinds of approaches, but in the end, here's something that doesn't seem right, and I can't figure out what's up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Loosened caliper bolts&#xA;2) Turned pad dials all the way out&#xA;3) Turned outside pad dial all the way in (this was an experiment, I know it's not the right approach)&#xA;4) Turn inside pad dial til rotor is snug&#xA;5) Tighten both caliper bolts, a little at a time&#xA;6) Turn both pad dials all the way out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in this case, it was the outer pad that rubbed against the rotor and the inner one had a big enough gap. Again, I know that's not exactly the right approach, but after not getting the outer pad to pull back enough off the rotor, I tried this, and am not sure where to go from here, since the outer pad still won't back off enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22619" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T05:33:30.190" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T00:35:23.040" Title="Issue replacing Avid BB7 disc brake pads" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;disc-brake&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34481" CreationDate="2015-09-16T06:19:47.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you rolled it to the front it would not look like that picture.  Yes you roll it to the back.  I have some Front Roller - not making this up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T19:21:16.870" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T19:21:16.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34459" CreationDate="2015-09-16T06:23:29.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends. If you have another bike for which one size is also suitable, get that one. If you're on the limits of your rims with these tyres and could only go one way with your next set, get the tube that would fit those. My previous tyres were 35s and I knew I would probably replace them with something a little thinner so I made sure to get the --35 size target than the 35--.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tubes are amazingly forgiving. The bike I got recently to fix up turned out to have a 24&quot; tube on a 26&quot; wheel, and it held. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T06:23:29.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34482" CreationDate="2015-09-16T07:56:28.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If only one brake pad rubs and there is a gap between the rotor and the other pad, then your brake isn't centered well. To fix it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an allen key to loosen the caliper so that you can slide it around but it is still attached.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pull the brake lever. This way, the brake goes into a position centered around the disc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While still holding the lever, secure the brake again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Release the brake lever and find out that your brake doesn't rub any more!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19594" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T07:56:28.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13401" CreationDate="2015-09-16T08:55:10.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Professional racers use either 1-finger technique or 2-fingers technique for braking. The 2-fingers technique is more efficient for hard braking and is useful only for racing or riding at high speeds (&gt;200 km/h) while 1-finger braking is smoother and more precise and is useful for normal riding.&#xA;Furthermore, owner's manual for most bikes advice to squeeze the brake, not grab it and thus instructs to use one or 2 fingers for braking instead of 3 or 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experienced riders know that on a bike, you should squeeze the front brake gradually so that some pressure will push the front wheel onto the ground, thus making a larger contact surface, thus allowing you to squeeze harder without risking the front wheel to block (the front wheel keeps the bike up while it is spinning, so blocking it will make the bike fall in about 1 second)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22622" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T21:40:37.487" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T21:40:37.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34488" CreationDate="2015-09-16T10:36:48.433" Score="7" ViewCount="1446" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm upgrading an old bike with a five speed dérailleur system which I'm trying to convert to use a three speed gearhub from Shimano. I have assembled the wheel, I know how to set up the gearhub itself, but there's one question that bothers me: the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, the dérailleur pulls the chain and keeps it in tension. When I install the gearhub wheel, the dérailleur itself is ought to go away, but as I understand I need to keep the chain tight. Should I make it shorter or install another pulley? Is it possible to somehow reconfigure the dérailleur to pull the chain as a temporary solution until I do it properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Le1TY.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Le1TY.png&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; alt=&quot;The rear wheel as it is currently&quot; title=&quot;The rear wheel as it is currently&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22623" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T07:29:58.180" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T07:29:58.180" Title="Switching from a dérailleur to a gear hub" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34487" CreationDate="2015-09-16T11:25:10.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Old&quot; bikes – those from before the '80s or so – usually have horizontal dropouts that allow maybe 2 or 3 cm of fore and aft movement. That should give you enough room to tension the chain. I would think that a 5-speed bike would date from this era and be built with horizontal dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case then you can probably don't need a chain tensioner, just adjust the chain length so that it is long enough that you can get the wheel into the dropouts and short enough that you can get the tension right before you hit the back of the dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, you could set up the existing dérailleur as a chain tensioner – either by leaving the shifter in place (and remembering to leave it alone) or by removing the shifter and cable and setting the limit screws to hold the  dérailleur in place. You can also buy chain tensioners that are just &quot;unshiftable&quot; dérailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T11:25:10.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34457" CreationDate="2015-09-16T12:52:14.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the solution to my vibration issue.  This bike has Continental Touring Plus tires on it which have a interesting multi panel construction that has radial ribs on the outside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ErZua.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ErZua.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tire rib detail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in an effort to at least clean up the looks of my bike I tucked the left over brake cable back behind the brake arm.  Well after a few weeks the pad has worn down far enough that the end of the cable is touching the tire right along the radial ribs.  This is the cause of my vibration.  I was able to verify it visually and by the sound it made striking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the brake pad is out of alignment for some reason.  I noticed that it was rubbing the tire a few weeks back and fixed it, but Looks like it moved back.  In this case it will hit the ribs as well, but since I haven't noticed it then, I don't think it was the issue this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QB14h.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QB14h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cable on tire&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to mark this as an answer since it doesn't answer my original question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6782" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T12:52:14.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="699" CreationDate="2015-09-16T13:00:43.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;New to this tech but I love it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On very long MTB rides, you can lose a lot of physical strength past the first half. I carry a small pump too and ride tubeless compatible tyres and rims but with tubes fitted. If you get a flat 80 miles in, a CO2 inflator is like a godsend. I always carry 3x16gram bottles. Find that prepping the tyre with the hand pump to get it to 10psi is best before using the CO2 to get it right up to pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22627" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T05:16:11.133" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T05:16:11.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34487" CreationDate="2015-09-16T13:23:24.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Shimano Nexus 7 internally geared hub. When replacing my chain, I have a chaintool to remove the pins to shorten chains, which usually start out the length intended for a dérailleur. When the chain starts to wear, I move the wheel back a bit in the horizontal dropouts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_dr-z.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See Sheldon Brown's entry for dropouts&lt;/a&gt;. I can't tell from your picture what kind of dropouts you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22454" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T13:23:24.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34492" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T13:41:10.117" Score="14" ViewCount="8248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cut the crossbar on a mens bike to make it easier to get on and off.  Will it damage the bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22629" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T18:42:26.090" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T16:06:02.907" Title="Can the top tube on a mens bike be cut off?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34475" CreationDate="2015-09-16T13:48:32.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The worry here is that what seems like a simple ding on the outside could have caused some delamination of the frame on the inside, which in turn would cause weakness.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, a structurally intact laminated frame tube will make a clicking noise if you tap it with a coin. It should sound the same along the full length of the tube. A damaged one will usually make a duller thud. Notice I said in &quot;in general&quot; and &quot;usually&quot;. This method is not an exact science and is no substitue for proper analysis if you are really concerned about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This next advice may not be useful for your seatstay scenario, but if it is a larger tube you can get access at you could try to take a look inside with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-Inspection-Cameras/N-5yc1vZc2gm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Inspection Camera&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, if you really want to be sure then it needs better analysis by a professional. Possibly an x-ray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is badly damaged enough that it should not be ridden, you might not even need a new frame. Carbon frames can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/10/bikes-and-tech/carbon-repair-options-for-repairing-carbon-bike-frames_196178&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;repaired&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, for what sounds like just a minor chip I'd go with your mechanic friend's advice and just keep an eye on it. Like Frisbee said, the bike shop is probably worried about liabililty. If it was the fork/downtube/toptube rather than a seatstay I'd be more concerned. If they fail it's not just your frame that will end up cracked. You'll likely have some cracked bones and teeth too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10538" LastEditorUserId="10538" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T14:03:30.943" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T14:03:30.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34492" CreationDate="2015-09-16T13:56:34.377" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it will damage the bike. Frames that have that top tube rely on that bar for structural integrity.  Other bikes with step through frames are built to add rigidity elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22608" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T13:56:34.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34492" CreationDate="2015-09-16T14:06:38.077" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is downright dangerous and should never be done on a bicycle someone intends to ride. The top tube is integral to the strength of the bike. The frame can buckle or worse when you try to ride it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, make sure you're looking at the right size of frame. If its too big, it's going to be hard to get on and off from. You can buy a stepthrough frame or a mixte frame if you want something easier to get off and on, or a recumbent bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T14:06:38.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34475" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:33:43.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cracked my Mountain Bike carbon frame last year. It was replaced under warranty. You could see a visible crack. I also have a Carbon Road bike that I have crashed a few times and has a major paint chip out of it, but is still structurally sound. If the frame still feels solid in the area of the paint chip it is probably ok, and the damage is just cosmetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18661" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T16:33:43.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30654" CreationDate="2015-09-16T17:11:30.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said to explain it as if to a child so here it goes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Basic Shifter/Derailleur concepts:&lt;/strong&gt; The derailleur spring is always pulling to the smaller ring(s). Assuming your bike has Trigger shifters since you said it was a MTB, the big thumb lever will push the derailleur to the bigger ring(s). This is true for both front and rear (left and right respectively). The trigger is basically a &quot;catch release&quot;, letting the spring pull the derailleur to the next smaller ring.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Setting the Rear Derailleur (RD):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Preferably with the bike in a stand, but can be done upside down, get the RD into the smallest ring (pull trigger until it stops clicking).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Start turning the pedal with your one hand and push the thumb lever to shift to the next bigger ring. If it shifts smoothly and quickly, push the lever again, etc.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If, after you shift, the chain doesn't bump to the next cog, find a barrel adjuster and turn it as if you were loosening it (CCW) while still turning the pedals. You are, in essence, lengthening the cable and pulling the RD toward the bigger cog (inboard).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once you get to the biggest cog, pull the trigger so that it starts to shift toward the smaller cogs.  If it doesn't drop down, you'll have to turn the barrel adjuster as if you were tightening it (Clockwise) effectively shortening the cable and letting the spring pull it farther outboard.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Front Derailleur (FD):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The process is similar to the RD. Shift so that it's in the smallest ring (pull the trigger).  Once there, inspect the cable.  Note how much slack there is. If the cable has a lot of slack (no tension), try to find the barrel adjuster and turn it CCW (loosen/lengthen) until there's only a very slight amount of tension. If the cable it still taut, I like to shorten the cable (turn Clockwise) until there's very little tension.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From there, turn the pedals with one hand and push the thumb lever on the left shifter.  If it goes to the next ring, sweet.  If it's having difficulty, I stop pedaling, turn the barrel adjuster CCW, then shift back to the small ring (pull the trigger), then start pedaling and push the thumb lever again. Repeat until it shifts cleanly.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Adjusting the limiters:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Both RD and FD have limiter screws that limit (obviously) the boundaries of the the derailleurs.  They will most likely be Phillips head. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TV0SO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TV0SO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TEKM8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TEKM8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;They keep the RD from going into the spokes or dropping the chain between the cassette and the wheel. On the FD, they keep the chain from dropping in off the small ring or out off the big ring.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;FD:&lt;/b&gt; Shift to your hardest gears in front (biggest ring) and back (smallest ring). Many derailleurs will label the screws with &quot;High&quot; or &quot;H&quot; and &quot;Low&quot; or &quot;L&quot;. High = Hardest/Outboard, Low = Easiest/Inboard. The way the gears are now, you'll be adjusting the &quot;H&quot; screws.  If they aren't labeled, you'll have to look and see which screw is actually hitting, or nearest to hitting, another part of the derailleur. Adjust the FD so that the outside of the FD is about 1mm from the chain or as close as you can get it without rubbing. (The latter for cheaper cranksets that develop wobbles in the chainrings).  Adjust the RD so that the cage and pulleys are parallel with the smallest cog.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now shift so that the RD is in the Biggest Ring and the FD is in the smallest. This is your easiest gear or fully inboard.  Now using the other screw (&quot;L&quot;), again, adjust the FD so that there's about 1mm space between the derailleur and the chain or until there's no rubbing.  Adjust the RD so that if you pull the cable with your hand it moves no more than 1/2 the width of the chain.  Just enough so that it can shift to the big cog easily and stay there effectively.&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are still issues, there could be other things at play. You might have to replace housing or cables.  Maybe your RD hanger is bent.  Maybe your FD is askew&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22608" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T17:11:30.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34498" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T21:27:05.907" Score="4" ViewCount="1001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just purchased a cruiser bike online that I had to assemble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I rode it for the first time, I notice my pedals felt shaky, whether pedaling or coasting, and when I did pedal every few seconds they made a crack/pop.  I don't feel anything abnormal when this happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turned the bike over, and I noticed the chain shakes too. It is tight, but the wheel looks as if it is up as far as it can go- it looks like if I adjusted it further to loosen the chain, I'd be at risk of it falling off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opened up the wheel sprocket- no broken ball bearings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any one know why this is happening, and if its an easy fix or defective bike that I need to return?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20981" LastEditorUserId="18643" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T19:55:39.983" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T21:10:17.333" Title="Why do my pedals shake and pop?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;cruiser&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31880" CreationDate="2015-09-16T22:36:25.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm 300 lbs, and I ride a stock Trek 7700 Multitrack 20 miles a day with no bike problems on hilly tar roads. This bike is also very comfortable for a larger rider&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22634" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T03:19:10.467" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T03:19:10.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34487" CreationDate="2015-09-17T07:28:54.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you know the chain will work with the sprocket on your hub. You will need to shorten the chain, if you use the same one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's usually better to get a new chain, and make the chain just long enough so that it has a cm or so play with the back wheel a little forward of the middle of the dropouts. As the chain wears (some say stretches) you will have to move the wheel back, until the chain needs replacing. It should last a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T07:28:54.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34492" CreationDate="2015-09-17T12:31:35.057" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you sit on a bike with a traditional diamond frame, your weight on the saddle pushes the bike down and this force is resisted by the wheels where they contact the road. The tendency of the bike to &quot;sag&quot; in the middle under your weight is resisted by the top tube – without it the seat and handlebars would be forced towards each other by the reaction of the wheels to your weight. I'm not sure if an adult could even sit on a bike with the top tube removed, there would be a large bending load on the downtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frames that are built without a traditional top tube (for example mixte and step-through frames) use other means to resist this tendency and are not (generally speaking) able to be as strong or as light as the diamond frame. One of the very wonderful things about bicycles is the elegance of design that goes into creating light, strong structures. Every bit has a purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T00:56:22.240" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T00:56:22.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34503" CreationDate="2015-09-17T12:40:34.397" Score="5" ViewCount="2555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for padded bicycle shorts. When trying on candidates, all of the &quot;leg grippers&quot;, as described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/1929/22454&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, feel uncomfortably tight around my thighs, which are on the meaty side. They feel as if they might start to cut off some circulation to my lower leg. Is this common in new pairs of shorts? Do the leg grippers stretch out, or will they retain this uncomfortable tightness? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22454" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T13:22:56.740" Title="Bicycle shorts fit: do leg grippers stretch out?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34502" CreationDate="2015-09-17T13:22:56.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &quot;sometimes&quot;. There are a few different styles of leg grippers.  Some are more likely to stretch than others.&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thick Silicone leg grippers, in my experience stretch the least and are the least comfortable. While they do a great job of not letting the pant leg slip, I find the level of discomfort not worth it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9QVBC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9QVBC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Silicone Band&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite kind have a slightly different material than the rest of the short, similar &quot;strechiness&quot; but only slightly tacky on the inside. These, I've found do stretch out over time but in similar fashion to the rest of the short's material.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46dLx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46dLx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some shorts that have the tackiness of the above type but bind a little more and can stretch over time.  I have a few pairs but the wider the band the more tolerant I am of the binding&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VnLmj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VnLmj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;There is another type that tends to stretch out which is, more or less, a cinched, folder over piece of the same material found in the rest of the short. As mentioned, they do tend to stretch out and don't often stay in place as well as the tacky kinds.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;There are also grippers that have little silicone &quot;dots&quot; to help hold in place. I usually find that they're less binding but they can be put on any material so the stretch durability is hard to nail down&lt;br&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLN8c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLN8c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Silicone Dots&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22608" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T13:22:56.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T16:17:16.030" Score="3" ViewCount="1318" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have (had) a basic Suntour spring fork on my hybrid and when I took it into the bike shop a couple months ago I was told the fork was excessively worn and needed to be replaced. Long story short I went cheap and put a solid fork on it which it turns out massively changed the geometry to the point were I'm putting pedals into the dirt on bench cut trails, even without roots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have the old fork and it's something near 2 inches taller than the new rigid fork. I believed the shop at the time when they said it was worn but now I'm wondering. Holding the upper and lower portions of the fork I can feel it shift slightly when I try to bend it but it doesn't move visibly that I can tell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it still reasonably safe as-is, should I get new bushings from Suntour for it and see if that helps, or should I accept it as dead and spend the money on a new suspension fork that is the right height?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22638" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T23:21:16.077" Title="How much play in a spring suspension fork is normal or safe?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34505" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T17:19:22.120" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FRAME: Kieren Pro (68mm BB)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which BB is suitable for this frame? (want to use SRAM s100 crank)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If BB must be Truativ 108 or 113mm, how do adjust chainline?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your time and efforts in advance,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers, Tom &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19952" LastEditorUserId="19952" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T05:20:08.170" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T05:20:08.170" Title="Purefix Kieren Pro" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;sram&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34534" CreationDate="2015-09-17T20:03:33.863" Score="3" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a relatively new Boardman Pro 29er. It has around 500 miles on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having a sound issue at the minute where at certain speeds a very loud resonating vibration type sound starts. I'm convinced it's coming from the crank or bottom bracket but can't be sure. It almost sounds like a loose guitar string.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to be related to cadence more than actual moving speed. I'd say roughly 60rpm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've inspected my bike with my fingers for loose nuts and bolts, cable ends rubbing, cables rattling and I can find nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21074" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2018-11-07T02:36:01.140" LastActivityDate="2018-11-07T02:36:01.140" Title="Something sounds loose but can't see what" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;noise&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10236" CreationDate="2015-09-17T20:13:41.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting the stem on backward won't make a bike twitchy. Think about riding a bike no handed. Some bikes do ride twitchy no handed, some are very stable. How it behaves is determined by the fork and the head angle and geometry of the bike. None of this changes if you were to rotate the handlebars or take them off entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an instructional video on YouTube of a guy teaching how to ride a manual (a wheelie without pedaling) and one of his tips is to reverse the stem to move the handlebars way back -- it makes it easier to leverage the front wheel of the bike off the ground. He not only reverses the stem, but replaces it with a longer stem so the handlebars are really way closer to the saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it is: &lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/3RGHQMCWCsc?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22641" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T20:13:41.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34511" CreationDate="2015-09-17T21:03:33.410" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to get this suspension &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SR Suntour XCR-RL 26inch Suspension Fork. Black, 120mm Travel, Remote Lockout, Disc Brake Only&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't know will it for my bike and also what's the difference between hydraulic and Coil suspension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bike is the &#xA;Falcon Renegade Mens Mountain Bike 19&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22597" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T00:51:34.847" Title="Will these suspensions fit my bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34492" CreationDate="2015-09-17T21:23:28.870" Score="-11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've often wondered this myself. There is a manufacturer that eliminated the downtube and replaced it with a cable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have broken the seat tube on a frame and ridden it home that way. It was more flexy, but it was rideable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you ask these kinds of questions, you get an immediate kind of response exactly as you see above, usually with no empirical basis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on what it felt like to ride a bike with broken seat tube, I think you'd find WAY more flex, and as the frame flexed, your seat tube and headtube angles would change. I believe you'd notice that in the way the bike handles. Would the frame eventually fail? It probably depends on the frame. If you have a chunky steel frame, it might just flex and steer differently, but hold up indefinitely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a steel bike you can afford to lose, my advice would be to try it and see. Steel fails in a slow predictable way. You'll see if it bends past its ability to recover or start to crack. Take it on an easy ride first, somewhere flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22641" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T21:23:28.870" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34508" CreationDate="2015-09-17T21:48:03.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main criteria for determining fork fit are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steerer tube diameter (1&quot; or 1 1/8&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steerer tube length&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;steerer tube type (threaded or threadless)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheel size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brake type &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspension travel can also come into play as the frame was designed for a fork of a given length. Deviating from this length by adding or subtracting suspension travel can affect the handling characteristics. How much it will affect it is a subject of much debate. I think if you stay with 20mm of stock you are most likely ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork on your bike appears in the photos to be a  1-1/8 inch steerer and at the price point it sells at it is most likely a straight steerer, (some are 1-1/2&quot; at the crown and 1-1/8&quot; at the top). The disc brakes are a match as is the wheel size. The XCR is a step up from the Zoom fork listed as the stock piece for your bike, but it is still considered an entry level fork. As long as you limit it to entry level abuse it should work fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of a spring fork over a rigid fork is you gain some compression dampening. The fork compresses to absorb impacts and vibration. You generally don't get any rebound dampening. The fork will extend at the same rate it compressed. A hydraulic fork can give you controlled compression and controlled  extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T00:51:34.847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T00:51:34.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34475" CreationDate="2015-09-17T21:50:38.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cabon fiber has evolved a lot and, contrary to some retro-grouch hysteria, is actually really tough. Don't worry about a chip. Even if it went through the paint and took a nick of carbon fiber out, you're fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seatstay especially is a part of the bike where you won't have to agonize over it. If you flat out broke a seatstay, it wouldn't put you over the bars or anything crazy. A nick is nothing, and you've had a mechanic look at it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a dude wailing on a carbon fiber fork with a big steel hammer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;https://youtu.be/6QNRpSkTGoA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22641" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T21:50:38.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34504" CreationDate="2015-09-17T23:21:06.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't sound like it's dead yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play means that the bushings are worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you continue to ride it just how it is, you will end up damaging the stanchions. However, it is not dangerous to your personal safety to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the bushings seems like the best option. I doubt the stanchions have any damage if it's only a tiny bit of play like what you're describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also worth noting that the responsiveness of the fork (how well it &quot;floats&quot;) would likely be much improved if you gave it new lube and bushings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T23:21:06.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34586" CreationDate="2015-09-18T00:02:45.697" Score="2" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw my bolt was loose on my mountain bike, so I turned back home, but ended up losing it along the road. I had to walk the bike home because my rear shock (Fox Float RP2) to my bike (Gary Fisher HiFi Deluxe 29er). The shock is connected by two bolts to the bike. I am missing the bottom one. Does anyone know where I can look up this part for purchase or if it is a common part that I don't need a specific one? I've learned lots about this bike just from breaking it so many times, but I can see I have plenty to learn! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5883" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T12:38:41.023" Title="Bolts for Fox Float RP2" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31062" CreationDate="2015-09-18T01:33:39.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on where you live. In Amsterdam for example the bicycle theft rate is very high compared to anywhere else in the world. Bicycles are owned by nearly everyone and are used as a major mode of transportation. Many people who use the their bicycle for city use intentionally own the &quot;junkiest&quot; bicycle they can. Thieves aggressively target anything that's decent. And they have numerous ingenious, quick ways of opening all locks. The more expensive the bicycle the higher the risk. There's a well established market for stolen bicycles there. So yes, in some places, the more expensive bicycles are at a greater risk for being stolen, locked or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22644" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T01:33:39.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34492" CreationDate="2015-09-18T03:54:30.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope!  The force on the down tube/seat tube  connection would be too strong.  You'd break the frame right there and crash horribly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22648" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T03:54:30.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-18T06:23:21.750" Score="1" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like drop compact drop bars but I think I'd like them better if they were angled in like Salsa Woodchipper bars. I adjust my brake levers to angle in on regular drop bars and compact drops because like my hand to grip something at an inward angle, not a straight ahead parallel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to try those Salsa Woodchipper bars, but I'd prefer to first try something less extreme, like a cross between the Salsa Woodchipper and the compact drop bars I use now. Anyone know of such an animal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I ride more or less upright, saddle about the same height as the top of the bars. Slow, steady, but sensual. And classy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5382" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T09:27:03.243" Title="Angled in drop bars like Salsa Woodchippers with slightly less angle in?" Tags="&lt;handlebars&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34519" CreationDate="2015-09-18T08:34:38.287" Score="3" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen quiet a few road bike with a Z-shape seat stay until now, e.g. specialized Roubaix&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it serve any purpose? What's the advantage of this design in comparison to a straight-bar seat stay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T10:33:22.183" Title="New trend of seat stay for road bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34518" CreationDate="2015-09-18T10:33:22.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They add a bit of suspension to the bike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/technology/smoother-is-faster&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.specialized.com/us/en/technology/smoother-is-faster&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;HOW IT’S DONE From It’s CG-R seatpost to the Zertz viscoelastic&#xA;  dampers in the fork and seatstays, the Roubaix is designed to filter&#xA;  both high frequency vibrations and big hits from the road— so your&#xA;  body doesn’t have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ZERTZ The Zertz vibration dampers are designed to take the edge off of&#xA;  high the frequency imperfections that every road rider rider knows&#xA;  well. From chip sealed roads, to cracks and everything in between,&#xA;  Zertz take the edge off of even the worst road surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="760" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T10:33:22.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34517" CreationDate="2015-09-18T11:03:24.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Salsa Cowchipper! &lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/components/category/road_handlebars/cowchipper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://salsacycles.com/components/category/road_handlebars/cowchipper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCsZS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gCsZS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Handy comparison image from the salsacycles.com website, in case it ever vanishes from the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/culture/introducing_cowchipper_handlebar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://salsacycles.com/culture/introducing_cowchipper_handlebar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a sidenote: Maybe your current bar is too narrow? It should be about as wide as your shoulders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T09:27:03.243" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T09:27:03.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34525" CreationDate="2015-09-18T12:05:02.587" Score="2" ViewCount="2613" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a city known for extremely high rates of bike theft (Prague, Czech Republic). I'm therefore looking to make my bicycle appear as cheap and ugly as possible to deter possible thefts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the best ways to do so, which won't affect the quality of the cycling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22651" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T13:48:00.860" Title="How do I make my bicycle as ugly as possible without affecting the riding qualities?" Tags="&lt;security&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-09-18T14:00:43.887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34521" CreationDate="2015-09-18T12:36:06.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;popular techniques in approximately increasing order of cost include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dirt: mud, road grime, let them cover any shiny parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stickers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pad bits of the frame with old inner tubes held on with duck or gaffer tape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;apply spray-paint in ugly or mismatched colours (optionally after keying or stripping the original paint). Then put stickers over the top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cover any desirable decals or etched logos with paint or stickers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strip some of the paint off entirely and re-paint in mismatched colours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;even more stickers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;strip some of the paint off entirely and, if steel, allow to rust a bit before clear-coating over the rust&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can also clear-coat over stickers if they're not that weatherproof&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cosmetic damage to non-functional parts (scuff or cut the saddle, scuff &#xA;levers or bars, choose the brightest bar tape you can and get it really dirty looking)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3311" LastEditorUserId="3311" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T12:46:00.817" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T12:46:00.817" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14625" CreationDate="2015-09-18T13:27:01.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After 15000 miles on the same 9 speed chain, same cassette, and same chainrings on a Jamis Aurora 2010, my chain starting skipping when up off the saddle. One day the skipping caused me to flip forward onto my helmet/shoulder/left hip.&#xA;I'm an advocate of always wearing a helmet now. I suspect I'd have a broken eye socket if I had no helmet. I too thought the skipping was on the rear cassette. But I was wrong.  I first just changed the chain. Problem got worse.  Then changed the cassette. Problem same. Did some closer testing and found when on the smallest chainring there was no skipping. Changed the two largest chainring and the problem was fixed.  When purchasing a chainring you'll need to know the bcd (bolt circle diameter).  It should be marked on the large chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22655" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T13:27:01.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34521" CreationDate="2015-09-18T13:48:00.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a cheap and ugly bike to start with, but one that fits you.  Fix up the gears/tyres/brakes to &lt;em&gt;good enough&lt;/em&gt;. If it gets stolen you haven't lost much, but hopefully it won't.  I'm in the process of doing something similar (including overnight storage outside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No drop bars and no suspension make it &quot;just a bike&quot; and less valuable (assuming that a thief would try to sell to someone who doesn't know much about bikes).   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very mismatched tyres - one city bike, one &quot;urban MTB&quot; style - will look more different than they feel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't fit fancy pedals, especially not clipless - they're a giveaway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget component theft:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nutted axles are good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Security hardware for quick-release axles or the seat post could help, or could act as a giveaway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normal screws (e.g. for pannier racks) can be replaced with anti-tamper torx.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't be mean with the locks.  &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look around and you'll probably see cheap bikes locked up with decent locks -- a decent lock doesn't mean a decent bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally this means a D-lock through the frame and round the back wheel (or round both chainstays).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'd always have a second independent (cable) lock through the other wheel, to something else solid if at all possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Think of ways to make it hard to ride off on the bike even once it's unlocked. This could be anything from a a rear wheel lock/padlock round the rim to taking the saddle off.  Do you know if the thieves in your area ride off or put bikes in vans?  Removing the saddle reduces the resale value in the latter case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not get the riding quality you'd ideally like, especially if you like to go fast on the open road but actually this sort of thing can be quite fun to throw around.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have the option of going for a folding bike and taking it indoors.  But that will almost certainly affect the riding quality even if you spend a lot of money on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T13:48:00.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34527" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:23:32.167" Score="12" ViewCount="1959" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that caliper brake pads (holders) have little wings on the bottom that aren't present on v-brake pads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the purpose of these little wings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tLfoS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Photo by RoboKaren. Released to Creative Commons by-sa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This other photograph on Wikimedia commons that @ojs linked to of the classic 1984 &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikeretrogrouch.blogspot.com/2014/03/campagnolo-delta-brakes.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Campagnolo Delta&lt;/a&gt; brakes shows a more exaggerated form of the 'wings':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52qVD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/52qVD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Campagnolo Delta&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T01:08:51.603" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T01:08:51.603" Title="What is the purpose of the little wings on caliper brake pads" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34526" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:31:41.947" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are to help guide the wheel/tire into place when you have to change the tire. Especially when in a hurry such as during a race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22608" LastEditorUserId="1464" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T22:13:51.027" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T22:13:51.027" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34526" CreationDate="2015-09-18T16:39:29.170" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It mainly serves as a lever when you need to tighten the brake cable. You can use it to squeeze the brake together, and tighten the cable easily. You could also use it for centering the dual-pivot brake, adjust the brake pad, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also a good indicator for the direction of the pad, for beginner. However, anyone has a little common sense would match the curvature of the brake pad with the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read another comment about guiding the tire, it's also interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T16:39:29.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34526" CreationDate="2015-09-18T17:32:25.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many brake holders are not symmetric. The lever is an indication of vertical orientation (and other possible uses).  Many (in not most) brake pads are not symmetric. There is often a font and back and a top and bottom. In this example below clearly want the force in the direction of the insert.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nXT0X.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nXT0X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brake example from KoolStop&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T17:34:33.800" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T17:34:33.800" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34517" CreationDate="2015-09-18T17:53:45.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;3T and FSA both make compact bend drop bars that have some flare (usually about 6*).  Nowhere near as much as the Salsa offerings - might work if you just want to make a small fit change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21022" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T17:53:45.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34535" CreationDate="2015-09-18T18:24:37.620" Score="8" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a Lazer O2 helmet and am loving it, but I got it half price from my local bike shop because it's a &quot;test helmet&quot;. This means that people who want to test ride their bikes use these helmets, but the person I talked to mentioned that this helmet was not used very often. It is white and has the words &quot;test test test...&quot; printed over a top portion of the helmet- it does not look like a sticker. I am wondering if anyone has had experience with these types of test helmets and if there is anything I need to be concerned about. It doesn't seem like the helmet is any different from the regular O2 helmet, other than the print on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22662" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:37:18.343" Title="Is there anything concerning about buying a half-price &quot;test helmet&quot; from my local bike shop?" Tags="&lt;helmets&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34531" CreationDate="2015-09-18T19:29:09.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Helmets are one of those pieces of equipment where you want to err on the side of caution, keeping your head in good condition is high up on the list of priorities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I wouldn't be able to trust a 'test' helmet. Even if it looked okay there's a strong possibility that someone, somewhere along the line, dropped it, and it could potentially be damaged enough to not hold up as well as it should in a crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you're comfortable using it depends on your own opinion on levels of acceptable risk, accepting that there's a chance it could be slightly damaged, and the trustworthiness of the person who said 'it was not used very often.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T19:29:09.637" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34531" CreationDate="2015-09-18T20:19:05.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I had the choice between a spanking new $45 retail helmet and slightly used $90 helmet for $45 that looked to be in perfect shape. If I liked the fit of the $90 helmet I take it every time. My experience is cheap helmets just don't have a good fit.  I have an expensive POC that I know the safest helmet but I still wear a lighter helmet most of the time because I like the fit and weight.  I am way better off than no helmet.  Even it it had been in a fall with no visible damage it is still way better than no helmet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:19:05.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34506" CreationDate="2015-09-18T20:29:58.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is that a bolt through the bottom bracket shell is too long and is touching the spindle of your crankset. As the crank spindle rotates, it sets this bolt into vibration, and the frame along with it, at certain speeds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check to see if you have a cable guide at the bottom of your bike. If you do, see if the bolt that attaches it to the frame is long enough to reach inside the bottom bracket shell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other diagnostic things you could do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the chain and coast down a hill, pedaling at different speeds. Does it persist? If not, focus on the chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have one available, swap the rear wheel. If this cures it, focus on the wheel and cogset. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take off one brake rotor. Pedal at various intensities somewhere safe. Sometimes various conditions will cause a subtly dragging rotor to start vibrating. Put it back on and try the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of that is to blame, I would concentrate on the bottom bracket bearings and the crankset/chainrings. Take them all off, clean, inspect, regrease, tighten to specs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22641" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:29:58.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34531" CreationDate="2015-09-18T20:30:51.900" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bhsi.org/up1505a.htm&quot;&gt;recent study investigated the impact performance of 675 used helmets&lt;/a&gt; (some as old as 26 years) without signs of damage.  (They collected 1500, and eliminated helmets with signs of damage). They all passed, except four. Three that failed were only made to meet the  old ANSI standard, and the only newer helmet to fail was a recalled model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because all of the helmets were used, some of the 675 would have been incurred some slight damage (e.g., being dropped, or bumped through regular usage) without showing direct signs of damage .  The fact only 4 failed, and those 4 had other issues, this suggests if you don't see visible signs of damage on a modern helmet, it is probably okay. In fact given the large sample size and consistent ability to pass the impact testing, I now have a lot more confidence in the quality of modern helmets than I did before.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your helmet, makes sure to carefully inspect it.  If you don't see visible signs of damage you are probably fine,  assuming that the helmet was properly manufactured (i.e., NOT a grey market helmet), that it has passed all the modern certifications (i.e., check for the certification stickers), and that it was not a recalled model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T20:37:18.343" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:37:18.343" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="496" CreationDate="2015-09-18T20:40:15.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A word of warning on Internal Gear Hubs with coaster brakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You IGH won't last long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see, in internal gear hubs without a coaster brake, the gears are lubricated by oil.&#xA;In IGHs with inbuilt coaster brake, the whole thing is lubricated with a grease that can stand high temperatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use simple logic: will the high-temperature grease be ideal for low temperatures? Of course not.&#xA;So if you are regularly using your bike in -10 to -20 degrees celsius, the grease will work poorly, and your gears will wore out quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once hade a Shimano nexus with coaster brake that started to work badly in it's first winter. At the shop they said that it was completely worn out and had to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you however go with IGH with coaster brake, then make sure that you pull it apart and grease it often, like one time before the winter, and one time during winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disc brakes are great in the winter, but a high-quality rim brake (such as Shimano Deore XT, or SRAM single digit 7) will also work fine. That's what I've been using for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22663" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:40:15.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34457" CreationDate="2015-09-18T21:43:55.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have side-pull caliper, cantilever, or linear-pull brakes and they are not engaging both sides of braking surfaces at the same time, your wheel may be getting pushed one way or the other.  At that point, you're at the mercy of the collective spoke tensions and strengths, so vibrations and stop power will vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only ever let mine get so far out of alignment that I noticed any vibration under braking one time, but centering calipers is part of my cleaning routine now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6426" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T21:43:55.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23622" CreationDate="2015-09-18T22:56:44.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem and it turned out that someone installed the small chain ring the wrong way and this increased the gap. I turned it around and it works perfectly now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22664" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T22:56:44.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30725" CreationDate="2015-09-18T23:24:34.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should read Zinn's articles (&lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2015/03/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-10-11-speed-drivetrain-component-compatibility_362722&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/07/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-1011-speed-compatibility_337803&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;b&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/09/bikes-and-tech/drivetrain-compatibility-hidden-in-plain-sight_303199&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;c&lt;/a&gt;, probably others) on 11 speed drivetrain compatibility. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surprising upshot is this: You can swap a Campagnolo 11 speed, Shimano 11 speed and SRAM 11 speed wheel in for each other and they will work (*). You can put SRAM and Shimano cassettes on each other's freehub bodies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shimano Ultegra CS-6800 comes in a 12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25, so this is a cassette you can buy and use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) Zinn notes there might be a tiny amount of indexing adjustment necessary. The SRAM/Shimano swap for wheels isn't really surprising, but the Campagnolo one is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T23:24:34.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33020" CreationDate="2015-09-19T07:08:16.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice: when in doubt, focus on warmth and dryness. Covers keep the wind chill out of your shoes (down to a certain temperature) but not snow, slush, grey winter slop, freezing rain or that salty spray from your tires. Once your socks are wet the rest of your winter ride is misery unless it's a short ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Lake insulated winter cycling boots, which I bought several sizes too big to allow room for two layers of wool socks underneath. MBT cleats and pedals are designed to shed mud (or snow) so use them. Covers work well enough in dry conditions in late fall or early spring but for icebiking I don't think they make the cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user22646" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T07:08:16.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T15:41:48.447" Score="6" ViewCount="42202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in a city with plenty of cycling shops, but they are all out of 27 x 1 1/4 tires. Each shop gives me a different answer about the possibility of using a different size of tire. Can I fit a different size onto an old 27 x 1 1/4 rim?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20284" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T20:43:16.940" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T22:22:18.347" Title="Is there any other size tires that will fit on a 27 x 1 1/4 rim?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34543" CreationDate="2015-09-19T16:01:06.123" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need 27 x (some number of inches given as a fraction). So 27x 1 1/8 would fit, 27 x 1 1/4 would fit, etc. Other sizes won't fit. As dlu's answer points out, an easy way to get this right is to ask for ISO 630 tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said,  27 x 1 1/4 tires are still made in plenty by brands like Continental, Bontrager, etc. so your bike shop should easily be able to order one for you in a few days, or you can buy them online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown's page&lt;/a&gt; for details on how tire sizing for bicycles is a mess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Brown's Law Of Tire Sizing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If two tires are marked with sizes that are mathematically equal,&#xA;but one is expressed as a decimal and the other as a fraction,&#xA;these two tires will not be interchangeable.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon has another &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/tires/630.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;interesting note&lt;/a&gt;: Very old (60's) 27&quot; rims had straight sides versus modern hooked sides, so they can't run as high pressure. However, he says if you get a tire which says hook edge rims only, you can put it on an older straight rim, just not at as high of a pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, tubes for 27 x 1 1/4 tires are a different matter. You can use 700c tubes in 27 x 1 1/4 tires (The right size should be 700 x 28-32 ish -- the boxes will be marked accordingly depending on the brand). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="8219" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T16:47:14.847" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T16:47:14.847" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34543" CreationDate="2015-09-19T16:24:33.010" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most reliable way to compare tire sizes is to use the ISO / ERTRO sizing. Most tires will be marked with it. Look for a number like this &quot;32-630&quot; (the ISO equivalent of 27 x 1 1/4). As long as you the second number, the bead seat diameter in millimeters, is 630 the tire will fit on the rim. The first number, 32 in this case, is the width of the tire, also in millimeters. That number can vary a bit without problem. If you go much wider you may have issues with clearance at the chain stays or perhaps the fork crown. Within reason, narrower won't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;27 x 1 1/4 seems to be the most common 27 inch size still made, but there are some others. Take a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.biketiresdirect.com/search/27in-road-tires&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;27 inch listings&lt;/a&gt; at Bike Tires Direct for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T16:36:18.277" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T16:36:18.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10543" CreationDate="2015-09-19T16:52:56.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.betterbybicycle.com/2014/04/a-simple-guide-on-essentials-of-wheels.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;great article on wheels and tires&lt;/a&gt; that does a great job of explaining the sizes and the implications of different choices. It is a bit long to easily summarize, but very roughly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use ISO/ERTRO sizes when comparing (the ones that look like this &quot;ww-ddd&quot; where &quot;ww&quot; is the width of the inflated tire, and &quot;ddd&quot; is the bead seat diameter, for example a 700 x 32C tire would be 32-622 in ISO sizing), doing this saves you from all of the weirdness of the other sizing systems (for example, a 26 x 1 1/2 tire is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; the same size as a 26 x 1.50 tire).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bigger is better (less rolling resistance at a given pressure).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tread is good for off road riding and of little value for road riding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is also a nice explanation of how to figure inflation pressures.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T16:52:56.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6559" CreationDate="2015-09-19T17:11:25.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing you &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to do, but you'll probably find that the riding is more pleasant with road/commuter tires – ones with minimal tread. You may also find that a mirror makes life feel saner and safer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, you may find that the gearing for a mountain bike is lower than you'd like. If you do, you can change the cassette (rear gears) to get a higher range without too much cost (maybe US $20-40).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you'd like to do some trail riding as well, you might do well to get a second set of wheels. That would enable you to switch easily between knobby and slick tires and also have cassettes that are better suited to each style of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T17:11:25.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T17:46:40.450" Score="2" ViewCount="666" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do fixie bikes measure like classic road bikes? i.e: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/measure-frame/road-bike/classic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/measure-frame/road-bike/classic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or only up to the top tube? (without the part of the seat tube that's above the top tube)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22669" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T18:45:28.490" Title="Measuring a fixie/single speed bike" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34548" CreationDate="2015-09-19T18:45:28.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fixie/single speeds have the same measurements as any other bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most fixies/single speeds have geometries that are like old road bikes or hybrids depending on how they're built (obviously a fixie built from an old road bike will have an old road bike geometry!). So, you need to take that into account and preferably try the bike before you buy it. You may find you want a longer top tube or shorter top tube or whatever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T18:45:28.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T18:58:27.140" Score="17" ViewCount="4735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm short 5'2&quot; (1.57 m) and 247 lb (112 kg). I've been working to lose weight and have come down 5 st (30 kg) so far. Now I really want to ramp up my exercise and was looking at cycling as an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried looking on websites for advice but can't see something simple I can understand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need some advice on how to select a suitable model that would be a good first time purchase. I'm clearly not going for speed and adventure just yet, so something basic that will fit my size and weight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22671" LastEditorUserId="4239" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T19:54:13.180" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T19:54:13.180" Title="short, fat, first time cyclist" Tags="&lt;women-specific&gt;&lt;upgrade-or-new-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34550" CreationDate="2015-09-19T20:36:47.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A steel bike built to take a load (touring) and big (soft) tires.  I don't like to recommend a specific bike but something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/troll/geometry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Troll&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://salsacycles.com/bikes/marrakesh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MARRAKESH&lt;/a&gt; with flat bars.  Troll is 26&quot; wheels so an XS is small. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or go with an older nice used steel mtn bike no shocks.  They go for like $300 as they are very popular with refugees coming to the US.  In case you are in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T01:20:28.953" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T01:20:28.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T21:05:01.140" Score="3" ViewCount="3834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the higher the number the better the bike. My dad has a 4200, so I was wondering what kind of improvments are made to make his bike better? And also what does the number 3500 stand for on my bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22674" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T02:05:59.373" Title="What does the number 3500 stand for on my Trek bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;trek&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24474" CreationDate="2015-09-19T21:28:00.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BB51 and BB70 are interchangeable. The hole is the same, they both fit perfectly. Unfortunately mine BB51 is giving out noises after 0.5 years, so I guess this is common. Before that I had BB70 and it lasted thousands of miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22676" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T21:28:00.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34550" CreationDate="2015-09-19T21:32:14.853" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your height might be more challenging to fit than your weight; your weight is well within tolerance for most bikes, steel or aluminum. Don't buy a too-big bike; it'll make you unhappy and might even cause injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially at first while you're still getting used to cycling, you will likely be more comfortable with a fairly upright position in the saddle. (I certainly was!) This suggests a couple of classes of bike to look at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &quot;cruiser&quot; bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &quot;crank forward&quot; or &quot;flat foot&quot; bike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;though many &quot;hybrid&quot; or &quot;city&quot; bikes (look for the flat handlebars) would do you fine as well. What you absolutely won't want is an aggressive road bike with skinny tires and drop handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't say you absolutely have to get a step-through/mixte bike, but I do think you'll find them easier to deal with than the standard swing-a-leg-over diamond frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manufacturers with bikes I think you'd enjoy include &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.electrabike.com/&quot;&gt;Electra&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://civiacycles.com/&quot;&gt;Civia&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.linusbike.com/&quot;&gt;Linus&lt;/a&gt;. Welcome to cycling!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3631" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T21:32:14.853" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34553" CreationDate="2015-09-19T21:39:01.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the past several years, Trek has been phasing out the __00 line of bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The higher-numbered bikes are going to come with better components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They've been basically giving non-number names (X-caliber, Marlin) and larger wheels to those bikes from the top down. All that's left at this point is the rim-brake equipped 3500. I suspect it will disappear shortly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T21:39:01.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6559" CreationDate="2015-09-19T21:40:05.403" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put road rests(padded handle bar extension)  on my High Timber, it goes like a road bike but maxis out sooner, 20 mph on a flat road. A lot more agile than a racer style road bike though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22678" LastEditorUserId="22678" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T00:51:21.880" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T00:51:21.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34550" CreationDate="2015-09-19T23:55:55.723" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got two things going against you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Height: I'd suggest avoiding 700c wheels and going for 650b (pricer) or 26&quot; wheels. For short riders (I'd say shorter than 5'5&quot;), these provide better fit. Surly, for example, only makes their small bikes with 26&quot; wheels. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weight: You're going to have to check each manufacturer's weight limit. Generally, hybrids and mountain bikes will be rated up to 300 pounds. That being said, expect more risk broken spokes and rim damage if you hit a road hazard. Cheap wheels are going to be your primary adversary. You also want big tires so you don't have to run them at insane pressure (which can increase chance of wheel damage) to avoid pinching the tubes (unfortunately, big tires increase the standover height, which can be a problem for short riders). On the road (and light off roading), you don't need suspension (and for high weight riders, you're going to load the suspension unnecessarily, especially on cheaper stuff). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendations are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a bike shop in your area to buy the bike. With high weight and low height, online bike buying isn't going to be very good for sizing or comfort and you'll likely want to swap out some parts on a stock bike anyway (saddle, tires come to mind). And most people won't ride a bike thats uncomfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may want to buy upgraded wheels (or more likely, upgrade wheels when the ones that come with the bike may start to fail). In general, don't cheap out. Reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/wheels.asp&quot;&gt;Peter White&lt;/a&gt;'s page on wheelbuilding is a good place to start.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look for bikes with no suspension that can take big tires. 700x32 minimum (preferably 35 or 37) if you choose to go 700c wheel sized (though I recommend 26&quot;). 26x2.0&quot; for 26&quot; is ideal. Hybrids, mountain bikes (front suspension is OK but no suspension is better; swap on slick tires) or touring bikes are all good candidates. Cruisers are also not a bad choice, since a lot of them have step-through ish frames which can be easier to get in and out of. Step through and mixte frames in general are good idea for shorter riders (mixtes being stronger than normal step through frames). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't buy a bike just cause it looks cool. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Men's bikes work fine for (most) women. Most of what makes a women's bike is maybe a slightly lower top tube, a wider saddle and a ridiculous paint job. That being said, some women's bikes do have better specs for women (Trek's Shift line has 26&quot; wheels, and their mountain bikes aren't all 29ers, though this seems to be happening on the mens side too). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to look at bike forums with sections like &quot;athenas or clydesdales&quot; -- these are typically heavier riders (clydesdales are generally men over 220 lbs, athenas are women over 165 lbs). Example is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeforums.net/clydesdales-athenas-200-lb-91-kg/&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. If you're upgrading components, they may have specific recommendations which may be useful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T23:55:55.723" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34550" CreationDate="2015-09-20T00:23:55.240" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm short 5'2&quot; (1.57 m) and 247 lb (112 kg). I've been working to lose&#xA;  weight and have come down 5 st (30 kg) so far. Now I really want to&#xA;  ramp up my exercise and was looking at cycling as an option.&#xA;  I've tried looking on websites for advice &#xA;  but can't see something simple I can understand.&#xA;  I need some advice on suitable models that would be a good first time&#xA;  purchase. I'm clearly not going for speed and adventure just yet, &#xA;  so something basic that will fit my size and weight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A used women's hybrid would make a good &quot;starter&quot; bike for you: a beginner, focused on physical fitness, who may be experimenting with different types of cycling to discover what you like best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why a hybrid bike? Versatility. A hybrid is suitable for cycling on crushed gravel or paved surfaces (bike paths or streets) without really being ideal for either one. That is, a mountain bike is best for off-road, and a road bike is best for paved roads, but a hybrid combines aspects of both in a general-purpose bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why a used bike? Hedge your bet a little. If it turns out that you dislike cycling, a new bike is wasted money. If you like cycling and want to keep doing it, you'll probably buy a better bike (or two) once you discover which type of cycling you prefer. Your second bike-- road, mountain, etc.-- is what you'll want to buy new and put your money into. Many bike shops sell used bikes in good condition, in some cases because the previous owner wanted a better bike or didn't like cycling enough to keep riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why a women's bike? A women's bicycle is built for a woman's body. (For example, a typical woman has longer legs and a shorter torso length relative to her total height than a man.) A woman's bicycle allows for these and other differences to make her cycling more comfortable and efficient, which probably improves the odds she'll enjoy and keep doing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice: visit your local bike shop, explain what you're looking for, and take a few bikes out for a test ride until you find one that feels good. Take your time. If they don't have what you're looking for, try again when they have more used bikes in-house, or try a different bike shop. If you get any sales pressure steering you toward a high-end bike or equipment before you feel ready, leave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user22646" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T00:23:55.240" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33020" CreationDate="2015-09-20T02:19:45.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, it's not an either / or choice. I would be aiming to get both, over the longer term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When &lt;em&gt;planning&lt;/em&gt; to ride &lt;em&gt;consistently&lt;/em&gt; through the winter there are also other considerations, some that help keep your feet drier and warmer (you may already be doing some or all)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The first thing is fit mud guards / fenders, or have a winter bike. Mud guards greatly reduce the amount of wheel spray that hits your feet and body. For example, for wet weather commuting I use my touring bike with mudguards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It may seem obvious, but try to avoid deep puddles. Don't swerve violently because that can cause falls, but try to look ahead and go around the deepest parts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's wet weather riding. Ignore aesthetics. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule #9&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get the bike set up for the conditions. MTB pedals are generally better for such conditions, as others have said.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boot covers do wear out. I consider them as consumables, and an extra layer of protection. Winter boot are also good, but an extra cost that can be deferred.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As an extra point please make sure you always use lights and wear bright clothing to make yourself as visible as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T02:19:45.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T02:21:03.013" Score="1" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing the tubular tire on an all carbon wheel (no aluminum brake surface) and cleaning the old glue off takes a long time.  What are some tips, products or tools I can use to speed up this process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5275" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T19:44:12.670" Title="Tips for cleaning old glue from a carbon tubular wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34562" CreationDate="2015-09-20T02:35:24.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use any solvents because you have carbon rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hot air is the best solution. Use the heat from a blow drier to gently soften the adhesive to where it will ball up with rubbing from your fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have a heat gun, you can use it but be careful as you can literally strip the paint off your rims with it (or cause your rims to deform/delaminate) - so I'd only use the heat gun very lowest setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stiff pencil eraser can also help bring up the adhesive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T19:44:12.670" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T19:44:12.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T03:49:30.707" Score="5" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a sponsored racer's cross country bike because of its light weight and great components (giant anthem advanced team). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the consumer frame of the same name from five seasons ago in a 29&quot;er and thought nothing much would be different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've since crashed several times on it and generally ride poorly, and for lack of a better term the bike feels finicky and twitchy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is different between a racer's XC bike and a standard consumer bike that might account for the terrible ride? I'd love to fix it as a 19 pound XC bike is pretty appealing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22680" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T02:23:32.057" Title="Racing bike feels bad to ride, can it be fixed?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34564" CreationDate="2015-09-20T05:00:11.593" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pro XC racers often like a responsive bike. 'Twitchy' in the hands of a pro is fast. My guess is you are used to the 29er and the new bike is a 650B - 29ers like straight lines and turn like beached whales. If you are used to a 29er, anything remotely responsive will feel twitchy and take a bit of getting used to. I had the opposite problem moving from 26 - 29er - same end result - crashes and swearing for the first few rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are things you can do nothing about -geometry, wheel size, things that cost a fortune to change - fork rake, and low cost fixes. Low cost fixes I would look to first are stem length (Increase to reduce responsiveness) and wider handle bars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tires and tire pressure..... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zero cost fix is to keep with the bike till you get used to it... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &#xA;Play with shock set up and tire pressures and see if it helps. &quot;Twitchy&quot; could be too much rebound (not enough rebound dampening) - are you experienced enough to have a feel of how the shock/tire/track interactions are working? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its really hard to provide an answer as there are so many things we cannot know about you, the bike set-up, the trails you ride etc.  In the end the fastest way to a solution is visit your LBS and get a bike fit, explaining your problem. A good bike shop will be able to sort you out, or at least, tell you what is  wrong.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastEditorUserId="3924" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T00:30:13.720" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T00:30:13.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34550" CreationDate="2015-09-20T05:01:46.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mother was a similar build before she lost a lot of weight. She is the expert I turned to in order to answer the question... in her opinion a women's Electra Townie, 7 speed with 24 inch wheels is &quot;Great for stability and the size is perfect for a 5&quot;2' frame.&quot; She owns one, and rides often. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21300" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T05:01:46.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34553" CreationDate="2015-09-20T05:09:42.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a search for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/sport/3_series/3500/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek 3500&lt;/a&gt; and found this page describing it.  The details page gives the components they used.  I then did one for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2009/archive/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trek 4200&lt;/a&gt; and found an archive for old Trek bikes, but didn't see a 4200 anywhere, even if I shifted a year or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T05:09:42.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34579" CreationDate="2015-09-20T05:18:47.427" Score="2" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very occasionally my chain will come of the small chainwheel on a downshift. It is not at all predictable, except that it always happens when the I'm doing an unloaded shift in preparation for a climb. I don't think it has ever happened under load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The limit screws seem to be set correctly. Most (&gt;99%) of the time I can shift onto the small chain ring without any problem – both under load and without a load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd appreciate suggestions for what to check or ideas about what could be causing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T03:29:03.760" Title="Occassionally Dropping Chain On Downshifts" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;technique&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T08:37:48.283" Score="1" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I took the old bottom bracket out of my hybrid frame, FSA Platinum ISIS Bottom Bracket 68 x 118mm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then replaced with a Shimano BBUN55 Square Taper 68 x 11.8cm. Then realised that this was a square taper, not the star shaped of the previous FSA. Now obviously my crankset won't fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy to purchase another crankset, as mine has 6,000km+ of hard way &amp;amp; I really don't fancy taking it back out again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would something like:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-vero-compact-n10-11-chainset/rp-prod129455&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-vero-compact-n10-11-chainset/rp-prod129455&lt;/a&gt;  fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, should I take it out and order the correct one? The only BB I can see if the same one, and they only seem to last 3,000km :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T10:52:11.283" Title="Bottom Bracket issues" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T08:53:36.017" Score="5" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to get 3 family bikes functioning as well as possible. I've replaced all the cables, but now want to get the gears as close to new as is sensible.&#xA;All bikes old &gt;10 years I would guess:Trek 4300, Kona Lana'i &amp;amp; Ridgeback mx24. &#xA;Initial Q is, apart from the chain &amp;amp; cassette, which gear  components degrade the most? Rear mech, front mech, shifters &amp;amp; chainring.&#xA;Trying to do a cost-benefit analysis.&#xA;Ta&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22684" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T09:42:36.553" Title="Refurbishing everyday bikes" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;replacement&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34570" CreationDate="2015-09-20T09:41:15.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends how they've been stored.  If they were inside a garage or otherwise dry, then that's a lot less work.  If they were outside or damp, everything will be that much closer to EOL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear changes and brakes: if there's been moisture in the cables then they can suffer but housings and inner wires can be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyres and tubes can degrade in heat.  Oils and greases will thicken and congeal so an all-round service of bearings can be in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, why were they unused for a long time?  Was there a fault that was too hard to fix at the time?   Look for function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side, sometimes a good wash, and a lick of paint can make an old bike appear very much nicer too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T09:41:15.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34570" CreationDate="2015-09-20T09:42:36.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my personal experience the order is roughly the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chains and cassettes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rear derailleur pulleys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chainrings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailleurs don't really wear out but can be accidentally broken. And as already commented, the best way of managing this is replacing parts when they wear out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T09:42:36.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34576" CreationDate="2015-09-20T20:04:36.927" Score="-3" ViewCount="979" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm trying to find the value of my bike, but for some reason it doesn't exist on any kind of 'database' (I know I probably shouldn't be looking for a bike value off of them, but it's all I can think of). The frame is aluminum and says all the following: cannondale, sr500, and caad. It's got a carbon fork, shimano 105 rear shifter, shimano tiagra brake levers and I'm pretty sure the rest of the parts are shimano. &#xA;Someone please hook a brother up.&#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Thanks to @Batman's comment, I found exactly what my bike is. Here it is: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2006&amp;amp;brand=Cannondale&amp;amp;model=Sport+Road+500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2006&amp;amp;brand=Cannondale&amp;amp;model=Sport+Road+500&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21012" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T05:02:58.787" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T05:02:58.787" Title="Why Does my Cannondale caad sr500 not exist on the internet?" Tags="&lt;cannondale&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2015-09-21T01:44:35.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34575" CreationDate="2015-09-21T01:16:16.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this isn't an exact answer to your question I felt it was too long for a comment. It will possible be deleted as your question is borderline off topic Your question as written likely won't likely get an informative response.   We prefer questions that can be answered, not debated endlessly. While this is not a typical response I hope it will interest you enough to rethink you question.  A google search led to JLA Forums.com It is listed as a 2007 and the specs appear to match your description. It was for sale in Jan 2014 for $695.  While I admit the information is dated it is a starting point. Look for other  Cannondales with similar components  in your area that are for sale. When a bike gets to be 8 years old there is little  value difference between individual levels (1.0 to 2.0 or sport model to comp) Regardless of any data base it's value is only what similar bikes in your area sell for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T01:16:16.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34564" CreationDate="2015-09-21T02:23:32.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say the first thing you want to do is to make sure that the bike fits you, as @mattnz suggest above. A bike that doesn't fit can feel quite &quot;weird&quot; to ride, and subtle changes in position will change the weight distribution and your ability to move easily on the bike – for example, taking a hand of the bars to grab your water bottle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're comfortable on the bike, do some easy rides to get acquainted with how it handles in a situation where you're not stressed and where it is easy to recover from mistakes. I think you'll quickly figure out if you're getting more and more comfortable on the bike and familiar with they way it handles – and therefore more confident on it. Or, you're be getting clear about what you don't like about the bike…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T02:23:32.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34568" CreationDate="2015-09-21T02:39:52.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just tweak the limit screw for the low side a bit.  See if the problem goes away and you can shift into the low chain ring reliably. Occasional problems are &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10998" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T02:39:52.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34568" CreationDate="2015-09-21T03:29:03.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the way you describe the problem it seems less likely to be one of the common mechanical causes, like a stiff chain link or bent chainring. I have two guesses as to the cause. One is a subtle mechanical problem that requires the right conditions to set it off. The other is about technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rear derailer may not be taking up enough slack when you're in the small chainring. (This is not always obvious.) If you happen to shift around the time you hit a little bump or dip, or while you throw your weight forward to stand, or while you adjust your cadence, the slack chain gives a bounce and off it comes. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may be shifting improperly on these rare occasions. If you shift to the innermost chainring while you're in the outermost cog, and the chain line is angled too sharply, off it goes. Also, to reduce the odds of dropping the chain, a front shift ought to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sullivanstriders.org/akalter-bike-shifting.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;done like this&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user22646" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T03:29:03.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34569" CreationDate="2015-09-21T04:27:20.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd consider going back to square taper a bit of a downgrade. And buying a crank to suit the bottom bracket is a little bit backwards in thinking. That crankset you linked to would be fine assuming you want to keep the BB. FSA has been pretty good in my experience, but I can't say that with certainty for your case because I've only dealt with their more expensive stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing you'll have to watch out for is getting the right chainline. If you have the wrong length spindle, you'll end up shimming something, which I never recommend unless absolutely necessary, or just buying a new one anyways. Without more information I couldn't make an assessment of the right length spindle for your bike. I didn't have any luck on FSA's website in finding their suggested spindle length to produce the standard 43.5 mm chainline, or whatever is appropriate for your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would go order the correct BB if I was you, as long as you're willing to keep your crank for a little while longer. A new crank AND BB might be in order if you can afford it and want a smooth new setup. I don't know what you're doing though if those FSA BBs are only lasting 3000 km, though. I've had that exact same one, and it lasted so long I sold the bike before it wore out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22585" LastEditorUserId="22585" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T10:52:11.283" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T10:52:11.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T05:16:57.600" Score="4" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a relatively new Bottecchia bicycle, about a year and a half year old and underwent about 8,000km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost always use the biggest cog on the front cassette. Lately I noticed that as I apply a lot of torque, i.e. when accelerating from a stop (in high gear), or surely when I stand up, the chain slips -- at least that's what I think that's happening. What I actually experience is a cracking noise, the pedals don't effect the chain for a split second, and then it's back to normal. It is important to say that it doesn't happen to me if I switch to a lower gear on the front crank (but it doesn't matter which gear I'm on at the rear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have several ideas as to what may cause the problem. Firstly I thought it may have to do with broken or worn off cog. That is possible because I think I may have over-lubricated the chain last time, and I experienced a sand storm. However I think it may not be the case because it happens regardless of where my pedals are (if I had one broken teeth, for example, I would expect it to happen only when my right pedal is at, say, 7 o'clock or something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible reason is that maybe I have a problem with the front derailleur -- as I started using the middle gear more often, I noticed that I have problems getting back to the top gear (no problem going down) -- I hear cranking sounds, and often it wouldn't shift until I push the shifter further (even though it doesn't move further, it probably pushes the derailleur a bit, enough to make the jump). It also happened once or twice that under torque the chain slipped to the middle gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third reason I could think of is a worn off chain -- as I said it has served me for probably around 8,000km, and I also noticed there's a noticeable gap between the chain and the wheel (I'll post pictures shortly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8U3RW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8U3RW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/dynew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are some pictures I took. I hope they're helpful in identifying the cause of it, if not I can take more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22696" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T21:32:46.597" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T21:32:46.597" Title="Chain slips off biggest cog under torque" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34581" CreationDate="2015-09-21T05:32:47.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first image suggests the chain is not meshing properly with the chain ring.  After 8000 km you should be either just finished your fourth chain, or about halfway through the second (depending on if your manufacture says 2000 or 5000 km per chain.)   How long since the chain was changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do a chain length check too - 24 half-links (12 pairs of inside and outside) should be 12 inches long.  Any more than 12 1/8th inches is too stretched.   Running a worn chain normally wears out the rear cassette, whereas the front ones tend to survive because of the greater number of teeth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally - use a straight-edge and confirm the front chainring is not bent.  This can be seen by eye if you turn the pedals while looking down from above.  A deflection could cause a bad meshing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over-lubing itself is not as issue.  However it attracts dust dirt and sand, which can do mischief on the chain, accelerating wear.  Best practice is to clean the chain, dry the chain, and then oil the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T22:43:07.653" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T22:43:07.653" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14059" CreationDate="2015-09-21T10:23:37.863" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like scientists tend to test athletic performance. The &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; benefits of clipless pedals are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are cycling fast, you get a lot of unanticipated jolts and vibration which can make you slip off of the pedals, particularly if it is wet, muddy or bumpy. Clipless pedals keep you locked in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your visibility is impaired by riding in the dark, or in a group, then it becomes difficult to anticipate said jolts, and in latter case the penalty for slipping off the pedals is a big pile up (which is your fault).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When tired, you don't have to expend any energy in keeping your feet planted on the pedals, you can just push down dumbly and the pedal will rotate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you absolutely, positively have to accelerate quickly, you need power on the upstroke and the ability to &quot;flail&quot; your legs without them slipping off the pedals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You can of course get most of these benefits from toeclips, but they are a bit harder to get it and out of, and don't fasten your foot quite as securely, without locking you in, which is what track cyclists do)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most scientific studies point to a very small benefit in pedalling efficiency when cycling in controlled conditions, but accident avoidance is the real advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3005" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T10:23:37.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34587" CreationDate="2015-09-21T11:31:49.440" Score="3" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any manufacturer that makes specific anti-aero training jerseys for increased effort at lower speeds? Sort of like a braking parachute but more practical and subtle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reason for asking is that I want my fairly short commutes to give better training while not requiring unsafe speeds in city riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: and just to explain.. I'm not so keen on adding weight to my bike or person - not only because it is unpractical, but also because it would make the effort more uneven and more like interval training rather than sustained effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22701" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T13:46:14.467" Title="Anti-aero resistance training jerseys?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;aerodynamics&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34584" CreationDate="2015-09-21T11:50:50.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since drag is related to velocity squared at low speeds anti-aero won't do much.  Bulky regular clothes but that won't change your aerodynamics much. Why not just divert and take a longer route to commute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T11:50:50.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34514" CreationDate="2015-09-21T12:38:41.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shock bolt size and threading can vary a fair bit. At least they also tend to be easy to find. I believe that takes an &lt;code&gt;M6 x 1.0mm&lt;/code&gt; bolt. Probably about a centimeter long. If a &lt;code&gt;5mm&lt;/code&gt; allen wrench is the right size, I'm probably right. It could also be an &lt;code&gt;M8 x 1.25mm&lt;/code&gt;, or even &lt;code&gt;M8 x 1.00mm&lt;/code&gt;. All of these can be found in any bicycle shop and most hardware stores. I'd recommend dealing with it in person though because online shopping / shipping is slow and you'll get very frustrated if you get it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22585" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T12:38:41.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34584" CreationDate="2015-09-21T13:46:14.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @DanielRHicks says, a large pannier will do this (searching for &quot;large triple rear pannier&quot; gives a few hits for &amp;lt;£20 (probably ~$20).  You could make these work with a seatpost-mounted rack if you filled them with polystyrene.  A handlebar bag might &quot;help&quot; as well.  Ordinary clothes (loose fitting) will do more than anything that looks like a jersey/tights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider higher-rolling resistance tyres (they might save wear on your expensive races tyres and reduce the chance of punctures as well).  At race speed air drag dominates but at commuting speeds rolling resistance might well add something useful.  It's a pity hub dynamos don't come in higher powers or easily fit back wheels -- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/HubDynamo.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;apparently the Shimano DH3D71 will supply 10W at 40km/h into a dummy load&lt;/a&gt;, which is starting to get interesting but doesn't really get there.  It might be interesting to run the numbers on how much you could make a front wheel drag with anything-but-aero rims, a dynamo and inefficient tyres (I'm thinking touring tyres slightly wider than you've got with a lower pressure).  You'd need to put your commuting speed/power profile  into the calculations to see how it would work out.  Just say you were burning 200W and doing 40km/h though, the dynamo alone would add ~5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T13:46:14.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34589" CreationDate="2015-09-21T15:57:34.620" Score="4" ViewCount="1145" Body="&lt;p&gt;9 months ago I bought a Cruiser bike for riding around my neighborhood, and over that time the tread has worn out completely to the point you can see the cream surface that the interior of the tire has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is this normal? For me, this seems very fast for a tire to wear out. In the past I've had mountain bikes and their tires lasted for years and still had plenty of tread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is this problem due to a cheap tire, or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22704" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T22:11:55.003" Title="Tire Tread Worn out Very Fast" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34588" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:28:51.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cruiser bikes tend to be constructed for the mass consumer market. Even if the price of the bike isn't cheap, the components often are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The big balloon tires that are put on them tend to have soft rubber compounds that allow for a soft ride -- but quickly wear away. The white or cream sidewalls  that are popular on cruisers don't have UV protection in their rubber compounds so they also tend to deteriorate quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have a rear coaster brake (which tend to modulate poorly), you have to be careful as it's easy to drag/skid the rear wheel and wear down the rear tire down considerably. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a better wearing tire when you replace it. Harder rubber will be longer wearing but will provide for a harsher ride, all things else being equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T22:11:55.003" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T22:11:55.003" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34588" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:30:26.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously it depends on the tire, how much you’ve ridden, your power/weight and driving style. Surface and tire pressure probably also play a role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Touring or road tires can last something like 10 000km while soft cyclocross or mountainbike tires can be worn down after only 1000km of asphalt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear tire usually wears much faster because it transmits acceleration power and tends to skid when braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T17:30:26.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35092" CreationDate="2015-09-21T21:04:40.003" Score="4" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm flying to Athens, in 5 weeks. I'm going to do a 340km route from Athens to Patras and back, on the both sides of Ionian Sea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now my max achievable distance is 200km (trekking bike, avg 24km/h). Two weeks ago I began doing gym twice a week, spinning twice a week, and long (100-200km) ride during weekends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are those 5 weeks enough to train myself for such distance? (with decent avg speed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is this route a good choice for late October? I dont want huge cold wind blowing on my face the whole day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22707" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T21:20:40.780" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T17:39:08.260" Title="Training for 340km in Greece" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T23:29:38.157" Score="3" ViewCount="8056" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to upgrade to 8 speed. Does the Shimano Tourney TX rear derailleur support an 8-speed cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22709" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T02:32:47.310" LastActivityDate="2021-03-20T06:48:16.063" Title="Does the Shimano Tourney TX rear derailleur support an 8 speed cassette?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10712" CreationDate="2015-09-21T23:54:33.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This an old thread with an accepted answer; the consensus is against the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is a &lt;strong&gt;dissenting view&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my city (Melbourne, Australia), there are &lt;strong&gt;seven&lt;/strong&gt; velodromes that are open to the public. Access is always with personal responsibility. These open (to the public and to the sky) facilities see fairly constant use, and regular club use. Most of them are listed on this incomplete &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_cycling_tracks_and_velodromes#.C2.A0Australia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also 3 high quality covered velodromes with controlled access, and in the wider state (Victoria) we have 9 more velodromes, most of which are open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the public velodromes, we do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; see crashes, any more than crashes on bike paths, roads, and cycle lanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Users self-select by experience how they ride. Beginners, with &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; &quot;coaching&quot; from more experienced users ride at the bottom. As they gain experience / skill / speed, they ride higher up. Most of the public velodromes have banking of only ~20°, but some have banking (at the ends) of up to ~40°. The outdoor velodromes are nearly all concrete; a few are asphalt. The indoor ones are all wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I certainly agree that velodromes should not be the highest priority for cycling infrastructure. They should be part of an integrated cycling lifestyle culture. A velodrome is one place where a cyclist can ride as fast as possible, without endangering others, and minimal danger to themselves. They benefit their users, and &lt;em&gt;non users&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Velodromes are like any sporting infrastructure. The more you have, the more they are used, and the better the health and sporting outcomes are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@heltonbiker It would be interesting and helpful to others to hear (three years later) how that advocacy turned out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T23:54:33.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34595" CreationDate="2015-09-22T01:06:12.223" Score="4" ViewCount="7103" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a ~3&quot; portion of my back tire that is no longer within the rim walls on one side. It's an older bike but in fairly good condition. The tires had just been replaced by a professional and I put maybe 6 miles on the bike before noticing it. I don't think it occurred while biking since the wheel can hardly turn past the brake and I would have noticed the resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main question is can I fix this without deflating the tire (I don't have a pump yet so I'd be bike-less until I got one)? What caused this &amp;amp; how can I prevent this from happening again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22710" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T01:20:41.993" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T02:02:13.957" Title="Inflated tire partially slipped off rim, can I fix without deflating?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34594" CreationDate="2015-09-22T01:26:42.903" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only fix is to mostly deflate the tyre (so it's just barely inflated, enough to hold it in place but soft enough that you can &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_bead&quot;&gt;manipulate the bead&lt;/a&gt;) and work the slack in the bead around the wheel so that you have an even distribution. If you're really lucky there will be a matching place elsewhere that the bead has stuck in the middle part of the rim, and when you push the slack around you'll find that and everything will pop into place. That's the ideal solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this may also indicate that the tyre is slightly too large for your rim, in which case you're better off buying a different tyre. The way to find out is to fix it and see whether it happens again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are fixing this it's tempting to just deflate, push the bead down, and re-inflate. The problem will occur again very quickly. The actual issue is that you have a circular bead that's slighter bigger than the circular bead seat on the rim. If you arrange them so that they're concentric (even all the way round) that will work, but it's not stable until you pump the tyre back up to push it up hard against the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a weird bike with odd-sized wheels it's vaguely possible that this is actually the wrong size tyre altogether. But that's unlikely. More likely you have a cheap bike with slightly undersize wheels, or a damaged rim, and a generously built (cheap) tyre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth buying a bike pump, not just for times like this, but so you can keep your tyres pumped up which will make riding easier. And it's a step on the way to owning a puncture repair kit (which will save you money as well as time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T02:02:13.957" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T02:02:13.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34592" CreationDate="2015-09-22T01:46:51.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any Shimano 7-9 speed rear derailleur will work with any 7-9 speed Shimano shifter. To upgrade to 8 speed, you need an 8 speed Shimano-compatible cassette or freewheel which works with your rear wheel, 8 speed shimano shifters, a 7-9 speed Shimano rear derailleur and a Shimano road front derailleur if you have road shifters or a Shimano mountain front derailleur if you have mountain shifters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear derailleur needs to have appropriate capacity and sprocket size tolerances for the gearing you want to run, and the front derailleur has to be matched to the number of chainrings, size of the jumps between chainrings and chainring sizes. Both have to have apppropriate mounting as well, obviously (tourney comes with a claw adapter in some cases; most modern frames don't need it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, you can use a Tourney rear derailleur with a Shimano 8 speed shifter, but you have to make sure the rest of the components work. That being said, upgrading from 6 or 7 speeds to 8 speeds usually doesn't improve anything (esp. with low quality parts like Tourney). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T01:46:51.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34469" CreationDate="2015-09-22T01:53:24.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Current rim depths tend to be between 20mm and 80mm.  You can choose along this spectrum to trade weight for aero, but for general use 30mm or 40mm is probably reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand-built wheels are an advantage if done well, because they are less likely to have broken spokes.  There are plenty of custom wheel builders out there, plus some mass-market manufacturers who advertise hand-built wheels (obviously they'll automate what they can, but hopefully the important parts are done by hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For hubs you will find two types: cartridge bearing and cone bearing.  The former are adjustment-free and you generally can replace the bearings if needed, whilst the latter require adjustment to get the perfect spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably want butted spokes of some kind.  I dislike aero spokes (with flattened midsections) because they are painful to work on (you inevitably whack your hand with the spokes when working on the bike, and bladed spokes can actually cut you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A recent trend is toward wider rims, which allow more tire volume and are sensible if you will run 25-28mm tires.  It's also easier to install and remove wheels if the tire is not much wider than the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your price range you should be able to find 30mm deep wheels around 1500 grams, give or take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T01:53:24.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-22T02:16:02.640" Score="1" ViewCount="908" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to have my fork upgraded. Currently I am using Suntour XCM with 100mm travel. I'm reading a lot of MTB forums and a lot of them are telling that you may break the head tube if you use dual crown fork with high travel(160-200mm). Based on their inputs, the ideal travel for a dual crown fork is around 130-140mm. My bike frame is a hard tail enduro. Any inputs will be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22534" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T13:21:04.967" Title="What is the ideal travel for dual crown fork?" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34599" CreationDate="2015-09-22T02:52:01.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the frame is designed for 100mm fork, its unlikely its strong enough to handle riding that needs a 160+mm travel fork, and frame failure is possible. Its not the dual crown that is the problem - its riding a frame designed for 100 travel (typically XC) in a way that needs 200mm travel (typically extreme down hill). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the fork travel changes the frame geometry and compromises handling. The original fork has 100mm, the bike is not designed for higher travel forks, anything more that about 120mm would starting to affect the handling. Above about 140mm, the bikes geometry would be all out of kilter, and it would be a completely different feel to what it is now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the same price, modern single crown forks in the 120-140mm travel are as good as any dual crown for enduro riding.  The original fork being a XCM100 also means its an entry level frame. I doubt the frame would benefit significantly from a decent dual crown fork over a decent single crown which would be nearly as stiff and lighter weight.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding all this together, if you really need more than 120mm travel, you would be better to buy a bike built for it. If you only need 120mm travel, a single crown fork will do the job best.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T02:52:01.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34482" CreationDate="2015-09-22T03:27:06.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lots of folks use Anderas' method and I'm sure it works for them, but it never did for me.  What does for for me (it is similar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the caliper bolts, so the caliper will float around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosen the both adjuster knobs all the way, then tighten the inner one (the big red one) 3-5 clicks: depends on the bike.   A Torx driver is handy for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tighten the outer adjuster all the way down (the small one).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wheel should not move at this point. Check for just a bit of clearance between the rotor and the caliper housing (not pad) on the inner side. If not, retry steps 2 and 3 with a different number of clicks.  When ok, tighten the caliper bolts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back off the inner adjuster 2 clicks and the outer 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a light source between the brake and you, observe the gap between the pads and the rotor. The outer gap should be twice the inner gap, and the inner gap should be small.  If the gaps vary as the wheel spins, you may need to true your rotor.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus tip: Wipe your rotors down with alcohol each ride, they will work well and will make (less) noise.  BTW, I love my BB-7s: with a bit of knowledge and care, they are great brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22711" LastEditorUserId="22711" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T03:38:09.350" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T03:38:09.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27321" CreationDate="2015-09-22T12:17:22.683" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basics are that in &lt;strong&gt;short and intensive&lt;/strong&gt; you will burn more fat in shorter time. However you can hold &lt;strong&gt;easy and steady&lt;/strong&gt; pace for longer time burning more calories as you go. You can choose either approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't look too much at minutes&amp;amp;speed&amp;amp;terrain. Heart rate monitor is more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20002" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T12:17:22.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9839" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:04:54.653" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, because I used to commute with 22mm tires.&#xA;But, I changed to 38mm as it was a more comfortable ride.&#xA;Also, I was worried of the increase amount of tire on the road = decrease in speed but the decrease was barely noticeable after a week and the comfort level was awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22718" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T14:04:54.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:14:45.377" Score="0" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess this is probably the most stupid question asked on this community but I want to know about all the parts of a bike. I am a non-native English speaker and am finding it difficult to understand the question and answers here. Would you post a picture or some mnemonic device or anything you find valuable related to bike parts, so I could get the names of all the bike parts in my head permanently. Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21066" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T14:14:45.377" Title="Label the bike parts" Tags="&lt;parts&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-09-22T14:30:20.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34292" CreationDate="2015-09-22T16:01:49.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way it was done when I was a kid was to find a small horizontal shaft engine (large chain saw, or some mowers and tillers), attach a drum (roughly 2&quot; diameter) to the shaft, then mount the engine on a board which was somehow suspended off one side of the rear wheel with a mechanism to raise and lower it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the engine was started and the drum lowered onto the wheel, the bicycle would move.  If you remembered to mount the engine on the correct side of the bike, the bike would move forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T16:01:49.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34441" CreationDate="2015-09-22T19:46:25.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, brake pads rub mean one of the two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caliper is not set up properly. Misaligned with the brake disc plane, not centered on the disc, brake pads worn out asymmetrically, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much hydraulic pressure in the system. It's either too much fluid in the system or brake lever idle travel set up too low (on brakes which do have this).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These issues may be addressed by following the steps (respectively for each issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a. Loosen the caliper bolts as Glenn suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b. You may move the caliper with your hand slightly to ensure it is free on the bolts and to break it if it jammed (metall diffusion, dirt and such).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c. Rotate the wheel. This will help the caliper to settle in centered or may show if your brake disc is warped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d. Gently apply the brake so the wheel stops in 1-2 revolutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e. Clamp the brake lever to secure the caliper in its position and tighten the bolts. Do not release the brake while tightening the bolts! If you do so, caliper may become again misaligned due to gravity or inner tensions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a. Consult with the manual to find out where bleed port on the brake lever is located.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b. Get your Torx (at least for SRAM brakes, not sure if applicable to Shimano) key ready as well as some rag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c. Slowly unscrew the bleed port. You may see a drop of brake fluid running away. This may indicate that your brake system had the above atmospheric pressure which prevented the brake pistons to retract properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d. Do not open the bleed port fully! Do not touch the brake lever! Doing so will break your brakes and you will have re-bleed them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, it is recommended to perform a &quot;break-in&quot; procedure if you happen to change the brake pads, rotor or after cleaning mentioned parts. This is required to set the pads correctly in the caliper and spread a thin layer of material on the disc -- this increases the brake ratio significantly.&#xA;To perform a procedure, just speed up on your bike to a moderate velocity and then perform a nice hard braking to a near-halt speed. Repeat 10-20 times to warm the brakes properly. It's a cool warm-up for the rider as well :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22725" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T19:46:25.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-23T01:32:33.827" Score="3" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does the Uniform Vehicle Code take away a cyclist's right to use most of the roadway, restricting him or her to the far right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering (1) the numerous exceptions to the 'keep far right' law, (2) how often a cyclist encounters these exceptions*, and (3) that every exception is safety-related, answers which suggest that keeping far to the right makes the cyclist safer must cite scientific research for support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Consider this example. The average car, bus, tractor trailer, and cyclist are 6, 8, 8.5, and 2.5 feet wide respectively. The minimum 'safe passing distance' is 3 feet (or more) wherever it's defined by law. Assume the cyclist rides 1 foot from the curb. (8.5 feet + 3 feet + 2.5 feet + 1 feet = 15 feet) Any road less than &lt;a href=&quot;http://iamtraffic.org/edgefiles/widths/lane_width_2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;15 feet wide&lt;/a&gt; is, by legal definition, substandard width. And since every travel lane in a cyclist's city or town is probably &lt;a href=&quot;http://safety.fhwa.dot.gov/geometric/pubs/mitigationstrategies/chapter3/3_lanewidth.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;12 feet wide or less&lt;/a&gt;, the cyclist may use the full lane virtually everywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: Here are some relevant passages from the Uniform Vehicle Code (of the United States) for quick reference. I omitted some wording for brevity's sake. Visit the linked PDF if you wish to read the entire passages.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Every person... riding a bicycle shall have all of the rights and all of the duties applicable to the driver of any other vehicle under chapters 10 and 11, except as to special regulations in this article...&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://iamtraffic.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/UVC2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Uniform Vehicle Code, 11-1202, pp. 168&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Any person operating a bicycle... shall ride as close as practicable to the right-hand curb or edge of the roadway except under any of the following situations: &#xA;1. When overtaking and passing another bicycle or vehicle proceeding in the same direction. &#xA;2. When preparing for a left turn at an intersection or into a private road or driveway. &#xA;3. When reasonably necessary to avoid conditions' including but not limited &#xA;to: fixed or moving objects; parked or moving vehicles; bicycles; pedestrians; animals; surface hazards; or substandard width lanes that make &#xA;it unsafe to continue along the right-hand curb or edge. For purposes of this section, a &quot;substandard width lane&quot; is a lane that is too narrow for a &#xA;bicycle and a motor vehicle to travel safely side by side within the lane. &#xA;4. When riding in the right-turn-only lane.&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://iamtraffic.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/UVC2000.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Uniform Vehicle Code, 11-1205, pp. 168&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user22646" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T04:29:54.340" Title="Why does the Uniform Vehicle Code take away a cyclist's right to use most of the roadway?" Tags="&lt;legal&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-09-24T01:34:34.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34610" CreationDate="2015-09-23T02:25:01.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is:  the US &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uniform_Vehicle_Code&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Uniform Vehicle Code&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is not law and has no direct effect on road users, so the core premise of your question is misplaced. The UVC is a suggestion as to how legislators might choose to write laws, and also how judges might choose to interpret them. So it neither removes nor recognises rights, and your question could perhaps best be interpreted as &quot;how much does the UVC influence lawmakers&quot; which is unanswerable. So I'm going to address &quot;how do road rules differ between cyclists and motorists&quot;, using the example of New Jersey since I prefer that question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally in the USA as a whole, motorists have no right to use the road at all while cyclists do. Viz, a motorist can be forbidden to drive but a cyclist cannot directly be forbidden to ride (there are avenues like parole conditions, however).  So in that sense cyclists have many more rights than motorists do. However, a licensed motorist travelling in an approved motor vehicle has permission to do many things that cyclists are legally forbidden from. The road laws vary from state to state, and also within the United States of America.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will find that the generic rule is that &quot;all vehicles must travel as far to the right as practicable&quot; and that cyclists actually have more of a list of common situations where courts have decided that &quot;as far as practicable&quot; does not exclude the implicit &quot;without dying&quot; that lawmakers thought was obvious. So there's a list, mostly as a response to case law. Cyclist fined for not riding straight ahead from the right turn lane... exception written into statute &quot;cyclists may ride in the straight ahead lane when travelling straight ahead&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct that in theory almost all lanes are &quot;cyclist may use full lane&quot;, except that de facto law very rarely corresponds to de jure. Viz, most road users habitually break the law. So it becomes a judgement call on the part of the cyclist as to when it's a good idea to take the lane, and when not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are seeing some interesting developments with self-driving cars in this area as it has become obvious that if they always obey all the laws they won't be able to operate on public roads. One simple example is following distances on motorways/freeways. Since most motorists drive in the suicide zone all the time, a self-driving car that allows a safe braking distance behind the car ahead is also allowing enough space for a human driver to feel comfortable moving into that gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edit to add)&#xA;An example of the &quot;keep to the right&quot; law:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.newjersey.gov/mvc/pdf/Licenses/Driver%20Manual/Chapter_4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Keeping to the Right (New Jersey)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The laws of New Jersey require motorists to keep to the right, except&#xA;  when passing. Motorists must drive on the right half of the roadway&#xA;  unless driving on a one-way street. &lt;strong&gt;Motorists must drive a vehicle as&#xA;  close as possible to the righthand edge or curb of the roadway&lt;/strong&gt;, except&#xA;  when overtaking and passing another vehicle. (N.J.S.A. 39:4-82)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T04:29:54.340" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T04:29:54.340" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34613" CreationDate="2015-09-23T08:56:28.933" Score="12" ViewCount="2341" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't appear to be a dupe of any of the stuck lock issues -- I've only been using the lock for 3 days and the key turns fine.  It's an Abus Ultra 410 which locks at both ends and only one end unlocks.  I suspect there's a spring or something failing to return the bolt to the unlocked position at the other end.  Unfortunately this is the bottom end of a D-lock that's locked round both chainstays and a rather solid post, so gravity is against me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shop where I bought it are trying to help, but I'm looking for ideas as well.  There's no room for a bottle jack (deliberately, and not that I have one), and I don't have a cordless angle grinder available. I do have the key (both of them in fact).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T13:50:26.450" Title="New D-lock failed locked up" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34612" CreationDate="2015-09-23T11:49:02.023" Score="12" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried a well-aimed hammer blow while the key is turned in an attempt to use inertial force (instead of spring force) to move the latch piece?  Start with taps at first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried some lubricant injected into the latch hole, in combination with #1?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both fail, then you have to go with brute force. An &lt;strong&gt;angle grinder&lt;/strong&gt; is the easiest way to get a D lock off, especially a well-built one like the Abus which uses hardened steel. Fortunately, one leg is free so you only need to cut the other leg off (otherwise, you'd have to make two cuts):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a power outlet located within extension cord range? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it close enough that you could get a motor vehicle nearby and  use an AC inverter to power a regular grinder?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you seen if your local police force or city/university grounds crew can remove the lock for you? They often have to tools for when they need to impound illegally parked bikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tool rental shop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Locksmith (note that they might charge through the nose for a site visit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T11:55:49.513" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T11:55:49.513" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-23T13:57:18.270" Score="1" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the carrera vulcan it has the Clarkes  exo hydraulic brakes.I what to swap the clarkes for better ones so will the Zee M640 fit my bike if not what other braks will fit my bike &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22597" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T20:12:16.563" Title="Will the shimano Zee M640 fit my bike" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34616" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:12:33.280" Score="11" ViewCount="3160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work as a delivery man on a bicycle, so I often ride my bike after dark with a black pizza box attached. My rear light attaches to my seatpost, and is completely useless when the pizza box is there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any lights designed to attach to the pizza box, which has not many obvious features except for a clasp, or is there some good way of mounting a standard light to the box itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22737" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T19:48:01.223" Title="Pizza box rear light" Tags="&lt;safety&gt;&lt;taillight&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34615" CreationDate="2015-09-23T15:20:26.633" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is to mount the tail light on your bike's seat stays. As an example here are a couple pictures of my preferred tail light (the cygolite hotshot) mounted to the seat stay of a cross bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUoSN.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUoSN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rear shot of seat post mounted cygolite hotshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/logZl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/logZl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;side shot of seat post mounted cyrgolite hotshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch of options out there for this sort of mounting, from lights specifically designed to be mounted on a seat stay to ones that come with seat stay mounts in addition to the normal seat post mount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few things you want to keep in mind when choosing/using a seat post mounted tail light:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the light's mount has enough adjustability so you'll be able to correctly aim it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure the light's mount will fit properly on your bike's seat stay. For instance, the seat stay mount for the cygolite hotshot I use won't fit on the extra skinny seat stays on either of my road bikes but fits fine on my hybrid and CX bikes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When mounting the light, make sure it is extra secure, you don't want to risk the light getting knocked into the bike's wheel because it was installed too loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is a rack mounted light. Again like the seat stay mounted tail lights, there are lights specifically designed for rack mounting as well as mounts for that allow other tail lights to be used with racks. In the example of the cygolite tail light I use, there is an optional rack mount available, although I was actually able to adapt an old rear reflector mount to serve in this capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T15:20:26.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34615" CreationDate="2015-09-23T15:57:16.913" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Stephan Matthiesen notes in the comments, if your pizza box is mounted on a standard bicycle rack, there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://bicycles.blogoverflow.com/2012/03/tail-light-review/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rear lights that attach to the rack&lt;/a&gt; and should be visible even with the box on the rack.  Or you could do as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/34616&quot;&gt;Glenn Stevens suggests in his answer&lt;/a&gt;, and get a light that attaches to the seat stays of your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to attach a light to the pizza box itself (and don't just want to glue or bolt it in place &amp;mdash; I assume the pizza place might complain about that), you might want to consider a &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B001JPS5BQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;red clip-on light&lt;/a&gt;, or perhaps a &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B00PM8MI3W&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;little magnetic light&lt;/a&gt; like these.*  These are meant to attach to clothing or to saddle bags, but there's a good chance that either or both of those might also attach to the clasp on the pizza box, if it's metallic and/or has some kind of a handle you could clip the light to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you like the idea of a magnetic light, but the ones sold for joggers feel too small, you could probably make one yourself by supergluing a couple of neodymium magnets to a basic cheap tail light (possibly after hacksawing any extra bits out of the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those products also suggest yet another alternative solution: instead of attaching the light to either the box or the bike, attach it to &lt;em&gt;yourself&lt;/em&gt;.  Besides the clothing-mounted options mentioned above, there are also &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.com/B000793NY4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rear lights that attach to your helmet&lt;/a&gt;.*  I assume your pizza box isn't so big that it would obscure &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, remember that for safety, reflectors are just as important as lights, if not more so.  You should be able to find some reflective safety tape or stickers that you can attach to either your bike or (if the pizza shop permits it) to the pizza box.  Also consider wearing high-visibility clothing, or a reflective vest over your normal clothes.  Wheel and/or pedal reflectors are also highly advisable for urban night riding &amp;mdash; they might look &quot;dorky&quot; to some, but their distinctive motion instantly screams &quot;bicycle!&quot; to any driver whose headlights you may find yourself in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*) The linked products are random search results from Amazon for illustrative purposes.  You local bike store, or even a well stocked supermarket, will likely have something similar.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3422" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T15:57:16.913" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-23T16:54:37.620" Score="2" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've mounted a new hand built wheelset (XR270 with novatec 171/172) on my cyclocross bike and bounced it off ground for a few inches unloaded to check for any rattling of the new wheel (way to check spoke tightness??), and have heard quite a loud shivering sound coming out from the spokes.  no such sound after I put my old wheelset back on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wheel seems true and no problem during test ride, but I'm worry about the sound and wonder would it because of poor spoke tension during wheel building, and how to rectify the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts /advice are welcome.  Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22741" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T17:59:33.197" Title="new hand built wheel - loud spoke shivering sound when bounce unloaded" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34618" CreationDate="2015-09-23T17:59:33.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;New wheels often make noise when the spokes settle. Avoid leaving tension in the spokes while building the wheel to avoid some of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#torsion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#torsion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t know the English word for the German „Abdrücken“, but it basically means pressing the wheel downwards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.litetech.ch/assets/64/abdr%C3%BCcken_normal.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; with considerable force all around the wheel and from both sides. It will relieve the spokes facing downwards, releasing their tension and you’ll hear lots of *pling* sounds from the spokes when doing this. After doing that you’ll probably have to re-true. Rinse and repeat. If you do that thoroughly enough the spokes shouldn’t move any more during usage and you shouldn’t hear any *pling* sounds on your first ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tensiometer is a good investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T17:59:33.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27307" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:10:05.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most accurate way I have found to measure the circumference of a blown up cycle tyre is to lay the wheel on a flat surface with a line drawn across it. Place the wheel with the centre of the hub on the line supported with a couple of wood blocks just high enough so that the spindle is clear of the surface.Place a set square or a 10 cm + board upright on it's edge on the line and against the tyre. Measure the distance from the set square/board to the centre of the wheel hub. Multiply this dimension x2 to give the diameter of the tyre then multiply the diameter by Pi (3.14). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22742" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T19:10:05.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34621" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:43:40.580" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T19:43:40.580" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T19:43:40.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34622" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:43:40.580" Score="0" Body="The part of the rear hub which holds the casette. It employs a ratchet and turns only when you pedal. Track bicycles / fixies don't have one." OwnerUserId="22612" LastEditorUserId="22612" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T23:39:07.973" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T23:39:07.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37876" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:45:18.347" Score="7" ViewCount="2442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the &lt;strong&gt;specs of a SRAM S80 rear wheel hub&lt;/strong&gt;. I dearly wish to replace its 9/10-speed freehub body with one that can accomodate Shimano 11-cog casettes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SRAM S80 was a 80mm-profile aero wheelset for TT/tri (formerly also named FlashPoint FP80, before SRAM acquired Zipp). Its rear hub bears no ID or name and given the wheels' age, I can find no trace of it on the internet, so if anyone here knows... I'm all ears. But the hub does look conventional enough that I'm hoping I could source a compatible 11-speed freehub body (spline) for replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatives (and why I don't like them):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Manual widening (shaving off the spline flange) - difficult even with the right tools, and more importantly, the derailleur might end up too close to the spokes. Risky idea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Campy freehub + Campy 11-sp. casette - Campy 11-speed casettes fit 9/10-speed Campy splines (and the latter is available as a replacement part), but buying both is as expensive as buying a completely new hub and relacing the rim. Plus, shifting with a Shimano derailleur is said not be 100% accurate, despite the cross-compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rationale: I'm buying a budget road bike, which I'd like to make a bit more TT-friendly (aero bars and wheels), and I already have the S80 rear wheel after a relative of mine. But I don't want to buy a 10-speed drivetrain just so I can use the wheel, so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22612" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T04:28:06.777" Title="Flashpoint FP80 / SRAM S80 - rear hub specifications?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;freehub&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34615" CreationDate="2015-09-23T19:48:01.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reflective tape is the way to go if you have a big surface area. I'm not going to link to a product because it is easy enough to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19730" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T19:48:01.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-23T20:38:08.100" Score="2" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking to reduce how much I sweat on my commute to work, and I've been looking into electric bicycles. Upon looking, I saw the &lt;a href=&quot;https://superpedestrian.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;copenhagen wheel&lt;/a&gt;: an all-in-one electric bicycle conversion kit. I'd prefer to go with the most cost efficent method. Does anyone have any experience with it? Is it more practical to buy a complete electric bike or to use a conversion kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14636" LastEditorUserId="14636" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T22:12:44.777" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T23:41:03.647" Title="The new Copenhagen wheel - a worthwhile investment?" Tags="&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2015-09-24T01:35:35.690" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34626" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-23T20:45:15.703" Score="2" ViewCount="3821" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the Shimano Dura-Ace &lt;strong&gt;7900&lt;/strong&gt; 10 speed cassette with a ratio of 11-27 cassette compatible with a dura-ace &lt;strong&gt;7800&lt;/strong&gt; rear derailleur? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people say its fine but more important to me is what Shimano says on the matter. Some online retailers specifically state that the DA7900 11-27 ratio cassette is not compatible with the 7800 rear derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that I saw on Shimano documents that it was not, due to chain wrap problems occurring but cannot find that material through google so am reaching out to you for help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could direct me to material relating to this compatibility it would be very much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22744" LastEditorUserId="22744" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T20:30:57.450" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T07:22:11.727" Title="Is a Shimano Dura-Ace 7800 rear derailleur compatible with a Dura-Ace 7900 11-27 cassette?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34625" CreationDate="2015-09-23T21:03:36.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If money is of little consequence, by all means, acquire an electric bike for your work commute and keep your current bicycle as it is. The electric bike is more likely to have a longer lasting battery and integrated controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conversion kit on the other hand, will be less expensive and could probably be swapped between multiple bikes. It seems like a generally more convenient route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T21:03:36.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34626" CreationDate="2015-09-23T21:50:09.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The RD-7800 manual states that the largest sprocket for a SS is 27T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manual here &lt;a href=&quot;https://static.bike-components.de/cache/dl-rd-7800-2-pdf-ce95c6782564d2bbf75cca831ae0bcbf.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://static.bike-components.de/cache/dl-rd-7800-2-pdf-ce95c6782564d2bbf75cca831ae0bcbf.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18983" LastEditorUserId="18983" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T17:53:18.190" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T17:53:18.190" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34625" CreationDate="2015-09-23T23:41:03.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of your questions are not answerable, so I will only focus on what can be answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any experience with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No one has any real experience yet as the wheels are still on pre-order.  A friend pre-ordered nearly 2 years ago and is still waiting.  That said, you live near their headquarters (Cambridge, Mass) apparently you can demo a unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it more practical to buy a complete electric bike or to use a&#xA;  conversion kit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends on what you mean by &quot;practical&quot; and what your use case is.  If you are planning on long distance commutes (e.g., 40+ km) with a high assist level, then it will not be practical as the battery housed within the wheel may not provide enough range.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If by &quot;practical&quot; you mean easy to convert an existing bike, the answer could be yes if your bike matches their required specs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For geared bikes your will need rim brakes on the rear wheel (no disc brakes) and a rear hub spacing of 135 mm (road bikes are 130mm and will not work unless you spread the frame - difficult and requires steel frames).  If you are fixed or single speed your rear spacing will need to have a standard track hub spacing (120mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also need a smart phone in order to interact and change the settings on the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of these are a deal breaker then it is not practical for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of pricing it is very competitive relative to existing electric bike or existing conversion kits.  Assuming it actually ships and works as advertised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; For those unfamiliar the Copenhagen wheel is self contained (battery and motor are housed within a large hub)  rear wheel which you swap out on an existing bike.  Assuming your bike (or bikes) is compatible, this makes turning an existing bike into an electric bike a relatively quick and straight forward conversion. All controls are done via a smart phone application and bluetooth&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T23:41:03.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34631" CreationDate="2015-09-24T07:37:08.787" Score="6" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had an accident where I broke my collarbone. I was totally out of cycling for 13 weeks. Before the accident I was racing in local MTB races. I'm still an amateur but I had good endurance to be a medium level racer (last cardiovascular tests score good / very good in general).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I get back to business? Should I start my training with easy, longer rides (base), or should I continue my training with a higher load?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9035" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T17:23:48.857" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T17:23:48.857" Title="How to get back into racing after an accident" Tags="&lt;training&gt;&lt;accidents&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34630" CreationDate="2015-09-24T09:19:57.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you don't have a big Winter racing programme lined up, you can afford (you have time) to take a low risk approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I recommend a gentle test ride of 10 to 20 kms to start with. Avoid jumps, mannies or any other tricks on this ride. Decide what distance you think is good for you, and keep to that decision. Don't go further because you feel good. See how you feel at the end of the ride, and the next day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a day off riding to plan your get fit programme, and recover from the first ride. Use what you've learned from the first ride to guide you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan to break your training up, partly for variety, but partly to keep each session focused. I'm thinking you'll need rides /sessions such as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aerobic / endurance training. That could be SLK's - Long Slow Kms.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Strength / hill training (think intervals, or hill repeats).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Skills training. Partly for fun. But how did you break your collar bone? Is there a skill you could practice that would avoid that outcome?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan to train every second day, until your are feeling strong again. Remember to include &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/20629/what-is-a-recovery-ride&quot;&gt;recovery rides&lt;/a&gt; when the training is leaving you feeling stiff the next day. And / or get muscular massage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many other answers that can help you under the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/training&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;training&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;training&lt;/a&gt; tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T09:19:57.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34636" CreationDate="2015-09-24T10:52:29.543" Score="6" ViewCount="4542" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reading on chain tensioning, the generic idea is that if the chain is too loose it will fall off, if it's too tight it will &quot;bind&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having an hard time understanding what &quot;bind&quot; means in this context. The best I could think of is that the teeth from the cog will be tight to the chain causing both teeth and chain to wear out more easily, but I couldn't find any proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the sources I was reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;one is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5173/how-tight-should-a-fixies-chain-be&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; on Bicycles: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The simple answer is, as Sheldon brown says, as tight as possible without binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second is on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html#tension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brown's blog&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the chain is too tight, the drive train will bind, perhaps only at one angle of the pedals (chainwheels are not usually perfectly concentric). It should be tight as it can be without binding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21307" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.680" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T12:38:48.830" Title="What does &quot;chain binding&quot; mean?" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;&lt;drivetrain&gt;&lt;sprocket&gt;&lt;tension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T11:48:27.893" Score="3" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't loosen it even with a long breaker bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22647" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T17:24:44.257" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T17:24:44.257" Title="How to remove a seized bottom bracket from a titanium frame?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34633" CreationDate="2015-09-24T11:59:24.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often what people mean by binding in a chain is the link is tight and doesn't flex freely. You'll can sometimes see it when the chain does a bit of a hop as it goes are round the cogs or the derailer, or even on the chainrings if it is bad. The fix is to gently flex the chain from side to side (perpendicular to the way it flexes around the cassette and chain rings) at the stiff link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T11:59:24.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34633" CreationDate="2015-09-24T12:38:48.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Chain binding&quot; occurs when the chain is really tight around the sprockets.  No set of sprockets is perfectly round and centered (especially if worn a bit), and if the chain is tight at one spot in the rotation it likely will become too tight with another half-turn or so.  The pressure of the chain on the sprockets makes the crank more difficult to turn, or, if the sprockets are really off-centered (though likely not visibly so) the crank may lock up entirely simply because the chain isn't long enough to reach all the way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the sprockets are perfectly uniform and centered, the friction of the chain links against the teeth will contribute to a sort of &quot;drag&quot;, if the chain is too tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is different from having a &quot;frozen link&quot;, which is a defect in the joining of an individual pair of links in the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T12:38:48.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16152" CreationDate="2015-09-24T12:53:41.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened on my Trek Pilot. The pedal was a bit loose and I didn't fix it in time before it bore itself out of its hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My LBS drilled out the threads and installed a new &lt;strong&gt;helicoil&lt;/strong&gt;. It's a simple task, I think I paid less than $30 for it (although I did get a friend-of-the-shop discount, you might pay more). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Park Tools has instructions on how to drill and then tap a new bushing: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/pedal-bushing-repair-kit-procedure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/pedal-bushing-repair-kit-procedure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T12:53:41.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31443" CreationDate="2015-09-24T13:01:22.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that Kryptonite doesn't actually &quot;rekey&quot; the lock but instead gives you an entirely new lock and keys, in roughly the same series type as the one you sent in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, I think the best solution would be to find someone going back to the USA and sell the lock to them for (price of new lock in that series ) * (whatever hassle percentage discount you think appropriate) - $20 - $8. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd essentially be selling that person a new lock after they send it in: the $20  &quot;rekey&quot; fee includes shipping back to the customer in the domestic states and the extra $8 is because that person will need to ship the old lock back to  Kryptonite in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Given that a new Evo 4 is around US$70 - you could sell the dead lock&#xA;  to someone going back to the USA for $20. They could send it in for +$20+$8 = $48 and get a&#xA;  new lock. The math isn't very good for the Evo 4 -- much better for&#xA;  the expensive NY series locks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T13:01:22.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34634" CreationDate="2015-09-24T14:44:50.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are absolutely positive you know the direction of the threads, then an air operated impact wrench will do wonders.  I'm amazed at the difference when I remove threaded rear cassettes from my single speed wheels.  Removal by hand requires a long breaker bar, and a second person to hold the wheel from spinning.  Impact wrench is brizzzppp and done.  Its much easier to hold the tools tight to the work piece this way.  With long breaker bar, that's not so easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again you need to know which direction is which.  (thumbs up to Daniel R. Hicks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10848" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T14:44:50.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T17:11:09.603" Score="5" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is very specific towards bikes which have a curved top-tube. How is it decided that a particular&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvUB6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvUB6.png&quot; alt=&quot;A Cannondale Dutch Bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;height of the top tube above the ground for a set of people in a certain height range is good enough to allow easy step through? Is there any biomechanical aspect to it or is it simply decided based on a survey conducted among a large number of people in that height range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it decided purely on aesthetic reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to come up with such a concept, but I am simply unable to find any strong basis for determining this particular parameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22695" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:30:32.737" Title="How is a frame designed for an easy step-thru?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;framebuilding&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1601" CreationDate="2015-09-24T17:48:23.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer this part of your question specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At what distance does drafting significantly reduce drag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a well accepted rule of thumb is that riding right on someone's wheel (within a couple feet) can save you about 40% drag. It depends on your speed, wind speed, wind direction, how aero the cyclist ahead of you is, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I compete in triathlon, where there is (usually) a &quot;no-draft&quot; zone of 7 meters behind the cyclist in front of you. You can sit 7 meters behind (about 3 bike lengths from their back wheel) and still get a non-trivial draft. I think it can be about 10% depending on wind direction, speed, how aero the guy you're drafting is. The folks at Specialized measured this in their wind tunnel and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PevpVXelq8A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;said it could be as much as 20%&quot;&gt;said it could be as much as 20%&lt;/a&gt;. 10-20% may not be noticable to many people, but if you're in an Ironman race going 112 miles on the bike, I'll take a 10% energy savings any day, even if I don't feel it. On the other hand 10-20% may not be enough of a savings for you to risk getting in an accident on your daily commute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1751" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T17:48:23.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34694" CreationDate="2015-09-24T18:20:52.177" Score="5" ViewCount="1724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a cheapish bike (Nakamura) couple of years ago, and it generally serves me well. Main problem that I have is that shifting gears, especially front gears often gets out of tune. After only a couple of rides it stops being smooth, and than I soon start having real problems while trying to shift gears (e.g when I shift 1-&gt;2 it gets stuck on 1, then i push to 3, and back to 2 and then it clicks, or similar scenarios. At one point before tuning, just trying to switch to 1 meant automatic chain falling from cogs). I tried tuning it myself, and had it tuned at LBS, but results are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is, I guess, what can I do about it? Should I buy new derailleur? Maybe cables are bad? Bike is 3x7 and all the new stuff is 3x(8, 9, 10) would buying 3x8 be a problem? What if I go nuts and spend money on entire new power-train (front/rear, cogs/dereilleurs) which would probably be only slightly less that I paid for entire bike? Would it make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth mentioning is that I don't ride a bike that much. In last couple of years, I've barely rode 1000km,and so far I haven't change any part on it, or done any maintenance aside from cleaning/lubing, and derailleur tuning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22754" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T13:00:04.263" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T09:00:28.907" Title="Problems with front derailleur shifting on an inexpensive bike" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;skipping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:35:04.783" Score="3" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple days ago my friend gave me an old bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much of the bike is very rusty although the frame and handlebar does not have as much rust.&#xA;I am not a bike expert and have been learning quite a bit about bikes on the internet since the day I received the bike. I looked it up on Google and found that it is worth somewhere around $200 and is pretty much something you can get at Walmart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the bike is so broken down and rusty I thought of reusing the frame and getting everything else to make a new bike. My budget for the parts is about $200. I am planning on riding about 150 miles a week on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am asking is should I be at all concerned about the quality of the frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do you think I should save up for a pre-built bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22756" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T21:26:03.737" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T21:26:03.737" Title="Should I upgrade/rebuild an old rusty bike or get a new one?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;build&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-09-24T21:47:31.857" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34659" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:44:45.823" Score="2" ViewCount="1456" Body="&lt;p&gt;Until today I've been doing 200km brevets on a trekking bike. It was quite comfortable, there was no ass pain after that, but the average speed was low (24km/h). Also if the wind blew, I had problems riding further, or arms were aching from taking more aerodynamic position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I bought a road bike, and it's great, but after doing 50km on it:&#xA;- ass pain became unbearable (I had pants with a gel diaper)&#xA;- my back and shoulders were aching from road bike position&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is road bike really a good choice for 200km brevets or longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triban 520 c1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LpxIB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LpxIB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22707" LastEditorUserId="22707" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T21:12:02.047" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T02:46:35.563" Title="Road bike for brevets" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;randonneuring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34644" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:52:22.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would save up for a decent bike in better condition. The cost of labor to overhaul a bike is substantial, and it's not really worth it if the bike components are crummy to start with. You may end up spending more in components and labor than getting a decent bike. There are frequently deals to be had on decent used bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22454" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T19:52:22.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34645" CreationDate="2015-09-24T20:24:20.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riding long distances comfortably has very little to do with whether you're on a 'road' frame or a 'trekking' frame and much more to do with the tires you're using and the seat you're sitting on. Wide, plush tires will go a long ways toward absorbing the bumps in the road, and the seat is your most important point of contact with the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For starters, try swapping the seat from one frame to the other, swap out the tires for wider touring tires, and see if your problems don't go away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: and for Pete's sake, make sure the bike fits you. If it doesn't fit you, nothing else really matters. Have a professional fit performed if you need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T20:37:38.903" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T20:37:38.903" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:05:11.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For years I used three old tubes that I staple gunned to a basement ceiling. It worked great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had one tube that I wrapped around the seat and two tubes for the handlebars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22760" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T21:05:11.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34262" CreationDate="2015-09-24T21:51:49.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you answered the &quot;cause&quot; part of your question already - &quot;long-term lack of maintenance&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you want to attempt the rehabilitation yourself or not depends on your degree of comfort with that kind of thing. Here is a copy of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.enduroforkseals.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/01rsjudyownersmanual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manual for the 2001 model&lt;/a&gt; (PDF file; make sure it actually matches what you have), which should help you get a sense of what's involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be glad they're not melted-down elastomer suspensions from the '90s like the last bike I inherited... yeeesh. :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22446" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T22:33:07.583" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T22:33:07.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="350" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:08:41.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used some pipe, an old concrete umbrella stand, and some motorbike tiedown straps to make this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/42guj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/42guj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://criggie.org.nz/pictures/ebike/test-setup-dukecity3.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its intended to hang off my landrover (the toolbox-on-wheels) for community fixups.   The whole thing unbolts and fits in the back.  Can also tie a tarpaulin over the top for on rainy days, and provides easy access to the toolboxes and spares in the back.  I also have some old plastic pallets that provide footing if its muddy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pictured scene was doing some video testing of freewheeling for a front hub motor compared to a normal front wheel hub.  This conclusively proved that the electric motor freewheels about the same as a normal wheel when unpowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T22:08:41.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:13:23.483" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front tire of my Huffy 3 speed rubs against the right fork when it spins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22757" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T23:08:36.760" Title="The front tire of my Huffy 3 speed rubs against the right fork as it spins" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;fork&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34655" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:43:32.530" Score="8" ViewCount="1333" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I don't know if there is an excellent place for asking this kind of questions or not, but please help me, I need professional people's help.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know many people who ride their mountain bicycles as a touring bicycle. And the touring bikes are usually more expensive, and I'm going to travel using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cube.eu/en/products/mtb-hardtail/analog/cube-analog-greynblue-2016/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cube Analog&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BSVHR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BSVHR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What do you think?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I screw (install) rack, carrier, fender, luggage and something else on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cube.eu/en/products/mtb-hardtail/analog/cube-analog-greynblue-2016/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cube Analog&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;UPDATE&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made my bicycle trip, and used Analog.&#xA;That is an excellent bicycle, and I had no problem with that. But I think it is better to have a touring bike, that should be more comfortable. Something like Cube Central &lt;em&gt;That should be a little more expensive :)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19731" LastEditorUserId="19731" LastEditDate="2018-09-02T06:04:32.203" LastActivityDate="2018-09-02T06:04:32.203" Title="Can I use Cube Analog 29&quot; as touring bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;touring&gt;&lt;travelling&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34662" CreationDate="2015-09-24T23:00:21.430" Score="4" ViewCount="880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to remove the bottom bracket bearing cups from my 2010 Athena groupset. Do they both unscrew anti-clockwise, or is one side different (and which one)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T03:57:08.980" Title="What direction are the threads on Ultra Torque bearing cups?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;campagnolo&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34651" CreationDate="2015-09-24T23:08:36.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmmm. Thats a bad thing. You want to fix that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most likely the front axle isn't centered in the fork when tightened down.  I'm guessing you have axle nuts and not a quick connect skewer?  You want to loosen both nuts, hold the tire centered underneath the headset (where you can easily see that the gap between the tire and the front fork is the same on both sides.)  Then carefully tighten the two nuts holding the axle to the fork (I think you need a 15mm box / open wrench for this.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its possible the rim is out of true so when the axle / hub is mounted straight the rim is off to one side or the other.  Generally you see this when there are loose or broken spokes.  Tool to fix this is a simple spoke wrench and a whole lot of patience.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's possible you have loose or missing wheel bearings at the hub.  When you spin the wheel is everything buttery smooth? Is there any noticable slop between the axle shaft and the hub? If so, that will have to be fixed (need more tools here, including a very thin hub wrench, grease, cleaner, possibly new bearings, etc...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10848" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T23:08:36.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34652" CreationDate="2015-09-24T23:13:01.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Didn't look at the 2015 model (just your link - 2016 model).  On the rear there are rack bosses that can be used to mount a conventional rear rack. The rear brake is also on the lower stay which will keep it out of the way when mounting a rack (good news). There are however no such bosses on a suspension fork so you will need a more specialized rack (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oldmanmountain.com/Pages/RackPages/FrontRacks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;old man mountain&lt;/a&gt;) that uses clamps in place of bosses, if you want a front rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have racks installed you will need to also purchase panniers (bags that securely mount to racks).  Or if you are especially creative you may find other ways to to secure regular bags (don't underestimate the difficulty, panniers will generally work much better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fenders, this will depend on the fenders(full, partial, metal, plastic, etc) and tires you want to use, your final clearances and your ingenuity as you don't have any dedicated fender eyelets left once you mount the rear rack.  If you don't have a lot of experience coming up with solutions for fitting fenders you may need to seek help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Alternate Answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As a completely alternate answer that indirectly address your original question...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you may also want to consider frame bags.  These require no racks and mount directly to the frame, handle bars and seat post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of tutorials available on the internet, here is one from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.adventurecycling.org/adventure-cyclist/online-features/ultralight-touring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adventure Cyclist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T03:22:17.603" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T03:22:17.603" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T01:39:54.753" Score="6" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I don't have a clue about bicycles. I wanted to replace the tires on my bike but couldn't figure out the size. So I went to a local bike shop where they showed me tires that would fit my bike. They gave me an estimate, I left my bike with them and went on my merry way. I called on the day they said that they would start the work just to make sure that everything was cool. They said that everything was fine and told me it would be finished the next week. When I came to pick it up they increased the cost by adding these implements. They did this to get enough relief on the brake cable so as to install the new over-sized tire. Is it in the bike shop culture to do this kind of thing without fist contacting the customer. Now, in the future when I plan to replace the tire with the original size I am afraid I will need to learn the skill of brake cable installation and need to pay for more parts/cables. Please see the attached photos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be much appreciated. Also, I told him that I didn't have a clue about bikes, period.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UjwKa.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UjwKa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;rear brake&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5S7F1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5S7F1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22764" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T06:43:54.120" Title="Is this a normal way to install a tire?" Tags="&lt;quick-release&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34656" CreationDate="2015-09-25T01:50:07.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The long black bit looks like a really big barrel adjuster to me.&#xA;(edit not an in-line brake booster/multiplier as I originally guessed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know what the original size tyre was, and what the new one is ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're replacing a tyre with the same width of tyre then the brakes should not need significant changes, perhaps a small adjustment for brake wear over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the new tyres are bigger or have a knobblier profile, then its possible they may may be rubbing on the brakes.  The brake pads may be let out to allow room, but now won't close up enough before the brake lever bottoms on your handlebar, leading to poor braking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll be fine to fit the original size of tyre without further change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T06:43:54.120" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T06:43:54.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34656" CreationDate="2015-09-25T01:54:09.107" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to tell exactly what was done and why – it would help to know the original and new tire sizes. But what it looks like is that the shop added inline barrel adjusters to your brake cables. That's consistent with your description as well. They probably added them because the release levers on the brakes didn't give enough clearance to remove/install the wheels with the new tires without having to undo the cable clamp bolts. This is to make it easy for you to repair flats and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have expected the shop to contact you and tell you that the new tires were too wide to work with your current brakes and offer you options for the solution. One solution would have been to use a narrower tire, another is adding the barrel adjusters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T01:54:09.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34645" CreationDate="2015-09-25T02:23:12.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question: of course a road bike is great for a 200km or longer brevet! And, I think your bicycle is great too. In my opinion, to get better long rides on your arms and rear the order of most to least expensive and effective changes are new fork, tires, then handlebars and stem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fork on the 520 C1 is steep, short, and has almost no rake (or fork offset). Here's an illustration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LGa0N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LGa0N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;illustration&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your frame has a pretty slack head tube for a road bike (good for you!), so you probably don't need to go all out; but a longer fork makes a shallower headtube angle which is going to stabilize your ride and require less work which is going to save you that arm and shoulder discomfort. On top of being steep and short, the fork doesn't have any rake (or fork offset) to absorb road discomfort. If you get a fork with more rake, it'll soak up some of the road vibrations, potholes, pebbles, etc. and it won't all be going to your rear end through the seat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://road.cc/content/news/152102-decathlon-unveils-brand-new-triban-520-and-540-road-bikes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;article&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; says your frame can take up to 32mm tires. The wider the tire, the less pain in your arms and ass. B'Twin's website says stock width is 25mm, very skinny. If you don't want to go to 32mm to save your butt, 28mm is a common size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's been some great advice about handlebar height! Swapping the handlebars would be a much larger project than swapping the stem. A little more rise is a good way of working on that back pain and longer drops than your compact bars offer might give your shoulders and back some relief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr get a fork that isn't built for crits and twitchy, short rides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19464" LastEditorUserId="19464" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T02:46:35.563" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T02:46:35.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34652" CreationDate="2015-09-25T02:50:41.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along with to what has already been said, the bike is less than ideal, but you now have purchased it and it can be used, probably quite successfully. For a 40 day tour with that bike I would consider replacing the front fork and/or bars with a touring fork and butterfly bars - although your budget, biking experience and tolerance for less than perfect fit may mean you wish to leave it as is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new fork solves the front rack mounting problem and removes the suspension (a disadvantage when touring) and will reduce weight. Swapping the fork and keeping the same bars is an easy 30 minute job. You would need a fork with the correct steerer (looks like a straight 1/18th) and would need the correct axle to steerer length so as not to throw out the bikes geometry. it would also need disk mounts and the same axle as your wheel (or a new wheel). Steel would be my material of choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Butterfly bars gives you more hand positions choices than a flat bar, and come in sizes that allows you to keep the MTB shifters and brake levers. Swapping bars is a bit more work, but still reasonably straight forward. I would also consider throwing on an adjustable stem to allow simple bar height adjustment.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easier (and cheaper) alternate to swapping to butterfly bars would be bar end extensions and maybe an aerobar of some sort. Personally I do not like extension on a MTB due to increased risk of injury in a crash, but for touring, they provide another hand position. Again, an adjustable stem could be a worth while investment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T02:50:41.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34643" CreationDate="2015-09-25T05:03:37.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you're a better judge of how effective your LBS employees are than people on an Internet forum, but in my experience it isn't uncommon to find some LBS employees are not very enthusiastic about working on bikes they view unfavorably for whatever reason: too old, too inexpensive, and so forth. Some think that working on an inexpensive bike is like polishing a turd, and I have run into more than a few who view it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bicycle is similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sportsexperts.ca/en/equipment/bike/hybrid-bikes/nakamura-royal-27449&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, I would encourage you to check out some YouTube videos regarding derailleur tuning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/tfBiXgf8JxI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tuning a front derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/wQncKmddahk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tuning a rear derailleur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T05:03:37.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34653" CreationDate="2015-09-25T07:27:52.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For English-threaded Ultra Torque, the right (chain) side cup unscrews clockwise, the left one anti-clockwise. For Italian, both unscrew anti-clockwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's most likely that you have English. I don't know how you could tell for certain though without asking your bike maker, measuring the size, or seeing which way they actually unscrew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the reason why the English is 'correct' see the link in the comment below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="825" LastEditorUserId="825" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T08:45:46.780" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T08:45:46.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34612" CreationDate="2015-09-25T09:12:55.593" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turns out that one of the bolts doesn't retract with the locking mechanism (the lock is bolted at each end rather than a hooked end and a single bolt).  Here's a full writeup in case it helps anyone with similar difficulties (I couldn't find much online).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With gravity to help, the lock works OK,* but with the dodgy end at the bottom it doesn't unlock.  This probably explains why I had no trouble before, but this time the bad end was lower than the good end (though almost horizontal). I couldn't lift the tail of the bike on the rack because there was too much (including another bike) in the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the following pictures the red tape marks the bad end.  Locked then unlocked with the bad end at the top -- all OK:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IbMSK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IbMSK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Red (bad) end at top&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locked then unlocked with the bad end at the bottom -- bolt still visible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/meCmu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/meCmu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Red (bad) end at bottom&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the manufacturer tapping the end nearest the faulty bolt should free it up. Actually it's not enough just to tap the end (I used a large adjustable spanner), you have to jiggle the key (in and out of the unlocked position) while tapping away at it.  That was &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; tricky on the bike than testing for this post (but scuffing the paintwork isn't a worry on this bike).  Pressing the bolt with a finger and no shackle makes this obvious -- you can't push the pin in with the key fully in the unlocked position, only in a position where it doesn't stay by itself (almost fully unlocked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also managed (off the bike, and only the first time) the get a shim into the relevant hole &lt;em&gt;with the lock unlocked&lt;/em&gt; and jiggle everything to free it up.  There's not much clearance to do this, the drinks can shim had to be bent just right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*It got worse while I tested it to write this post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T09:12:55.593" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T10:53:25.013" Score="7" ViewCount="21240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a front bike light for pretty quick night riding on roads beside the town. I found one that has 120lm, 30lux, and 92m shining distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it enough? What parameters should a good front light have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22707" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T19:25:14.957" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:23:01.157" Title="How many lumens (lm) should a front light have?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34665" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T11:59:45.087" Score="7" ViewCount="1351" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 1965 Schwinn Speedster that has 26 x 1-3/8 rims and tires.i have more than enough room to run larger width tires, I'm just not sure if I need to replace rims? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22768" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T12:26:51.957" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T15:14:58.193" Title="Do I need to replace my rims to move up to a larger width tire?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34665" CreationDate="2015-09-25T12:42:23.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're in a bit a predicament because of the age of your bicycle. If I remember correctly, your rims are &lt;code&gt;S6&lt;/code&gt; (Schwinn's designation), and therefore are &lt;code&gt;ISO-597mm&lt;/code&gt;. This size was used by Schwinn are their mid-range to high-end bicycles in the 60s and 70s, and on a few British bikes. It is not compatible with nearly every modern tire. However, Kenda does make a &lt;code&gt;1-3/8&quot;&lt;/code&gt; tire in that size. It's not bigger, but it could be a viable replacement when they inevitably need to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a better selection of tires to choose from, I'd recommend taking it to your local bike shop. They'll be able to assess how you'd like to proceed. You'd likely be replacing your rims, and possibly the whole wheels. The prices could range widely and will depend on your area, so I don't want to comment on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22585" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T12:42:23.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-25T14:36:53.227" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going on a holiday to Southern France for road cycling within the Provence region and I'm wondering if I shell out on a bike box and take my own bike or just hire a road bike out there. Does anyone go on holiday and rent? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have been and had an unpleasant experience with the rental could you say what happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22773" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T14:36:53.227" Title="Road bike rentals in Europe" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-09-30T18:37:18.897" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34665" CreationDate="2015-09-25T15:14:58.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As usual Sheldon Brown has an answer&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tire sizing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Look for the section on rim and tire width  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an older bike if you need new rims you might as well go with the whole wheel.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T15:14:58.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34664" CreationDate="2015-09-25T15:57:44.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given you can get some decent lights up to 300 lm for under $50 then step it up.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For the most part you get what you pay for in a light.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.bikelightdatabase.com/best/headlights/#streak310&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeLightDatabaseHeadlight&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T15:57:44.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32024" CreationDate="2015-09-25T16:16:27.137" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yup. Time for a rear hub overhaul. Easy and fun job. Not too expensive. It'll be like a new wheel when you are done. Just replace and re-grease the bearings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another guaranteed fix is just tp replace the entire rear wheel assembly with a new one. No more problems.... It just depends on how much money you want to spend. Personally, I would try overhauling the hub first, then if that doesn't work, scrap the rear wheel and replace it. Of course, I would cannablize the spokes and save them for future replacements....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22774" LastEditorUserId="22774" LastEditDate="2018-03-04T18:31:26.670" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T18:31:26.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34425" CreationDate="2015-09-25T18:33:29.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The yoke spacing on the BOB Trailer is quite a bit wider then a typical front fork mount bike rack, you could probably modify one with wider spacers and use a trailer skewer (or similar fabricated part) to mount the trailer yoke.  The wheel tray will need to be long enough for the span of the trailer and the fork mount will need to be high enough (or the tray low enough) otherwise the trailer will stall on the wheel tray when you try to mount the trailer yoke in the fork mount of the bike rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an extra roof top, frame clamping, bike rack on hand so I designed and fabricated a bracket that combines the yoke mounting of the trailer with the roof top mounting of the bike rack so it mounts to anything in the same way that the roof top bike racks mount: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iJNfp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iJNfp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trailer on Roof Rack&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22778" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T18:33:29.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34664" CreationDate="2015-09-25T21:55:59.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A front light needs to have both enough lumens (brightness) and have those lumens pointed in the right places - dictated by the reflector and lens. It also needs a battery (presuming its not dynamo powered) to last the length of the ride with some reserves. Addition things to consider are ease of install and removal from bike and mounting location, and battery size ( do you need to charge after every ride, or once a week?) . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More Brightness is easy to cheap to achieve and easy to sell (Mines bigger than yours), and very easy ti lie about &quot;6000lumen&quot;. Reflector and lens is design is hard to achieve and hard to sell &quot;Its not the size, its what you do with it that counts&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of cheap Chinese lights on ebay that will do a good enough job for under $50, closer to $20 - they work on the &quot;Bigger is better&quot;. For a better light in every way, you need to move away from these to a brand name light costing much more to something that has some brains behind the design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget dictates cheap Chinese lights and accepting the poor light distribution  My $25 lights claim 1200 lumen, probably have 600 and its all pointing to a high intensity spot with very little out to the sides.The battery is claimed at 4400mAH, I have measured it at  2000mAH, but do get the claimed 2 hours on high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already suggested, refer to the BikeLightDatabase,  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3924" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T21:55:59.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34676" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-26T02:48:57.907" Score="2" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to switch to STI gear shifters for this 7 speed bianchi brava, that has sun tour components.  I know that sun tour is not compatible with Shimano.  I also would like to upgrade wheels, etc.  any suggestions for the STI and derailed?   I have end bar shifters which i feel are not safe while riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;nancy elliott&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22781" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T07:06:26.417" Title="upgrading components on a Brava late 80 early 90" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34676" CreationDate="2015-09-26T07:06:26.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So many changes - unless you're particularly attached to that bike, consider a new one with the components you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise your shopping list is new shifters, new cassette/freewheel, new chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably need to check the new chain will run on the existing front chainrings, else they need replacing.&#xA;If the new cassette/freewheel fits the existing wheel then that's good, otherwise its a new hub, possibly new spokes and a wheel rebuild, or a complete replacement wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear deraileruerueuruer is probably OK, they are not indexed and don't really care.   However if the wire pull is different between gears, this needs changing too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The front one is likely OK, unless you want the same type of shifter lever front and rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember, a new bike will be lighter and have a warranty, and you could choose one with disk brakes if that appeals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T07:06:26.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34679" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-26T10:38:42.193" Score="4" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to build a bike out of all the spare parts I have in my garage. I found a 3x9 Deore front shifter, 3x10 Ultegra front d and crankset. Would they work together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I am building a 3x1 drivetrain, with a Shimano Alfine 20t chain tensioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22784" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T12:30:51.693" Title="Using 9 speed Deore front shifter with 10 speed Ultegra front Deraileur" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34679" CreationDate="2015-09-26T11:37:05.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Front derailleurs don't care what you have in back (as long as the chainline is within reason). So you can ignore what's going on behind the front derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of matching shifter and derailleur, an indexed front shifter needs to match in terms of capacity (3x), make/series, and capacity (tip of the hat to @mikes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, the Deore and Ultegra front shift points are largely compatible even though one is from the mountain bike line (your Deore shifter), and the other from the road bike line (Ultegra f. derailleur and crankset). Because you're using an indexed front derailleur with a different series shifter, you may need to tweak the indexing a bit but you should be able to get them to work. Many people use MTB triple cranks on their road bikes because of the wider range available, although you're doing the opposite here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Life was easier with friction shifters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T12:30:51.693" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T12:30:51.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1601" CreationDate="2015-09-26T14:22:25.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drafting is very well possible depending on the environment. In The Netherlands it is not untypical to have significant parts of your commute on stretches of cycle paths that are straight, free from car dooring risks and without side roads (or at least ones over which you have priority).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that at speeds of 25 km/h and above, when you stay less than 1 meter away from the draftee, there is a significant benefit. On the other hand, by riding slightly staggered behind the other person, you can watch the road ahead and anticipate any abrupt maneuvers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7161" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T14:22:25.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-26T14:50:23.047" Score="7" ViewCount="1391" Body="&lt;p&gt;For two months so far I'm trying to fix my bike. I bought a used bike and the shifting was not good. So I bought new cables and tried to make the rear derailleur work, but without any kind of luck. The front derailleur worked, except the rear. I'm not able to understand its mechanism. I have a very weird rear derailleur and non of the youtube videos is helping me because they all illustrate new rear derailleurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- How does &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt; rear derailleur work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- How to install the cable for it?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I push the part illustrated in the picture, then the derailleur moves. However I don't understand how the cable makes that part moves. Because it doesn't move, regardless how high I make the tension in the cable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mVLM1.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mVLM1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12545" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T17:40:39.533" Title="How to install the cable for this rear derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;cable&gt;&lt;tension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34683" CreationDate="2015-09-26T16:55:31.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you noticed the derailer moves when you push at the arrow. That is the spot where the rear cable housing sits. In the photo below the rear cable housing is the black loop that runs from the bracket on the chain stay just forward of the dropout to the barrel adjuster on the back of the derailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The housing is flexible, but it doesn't compress (much), as a result when you pull on the cable the housing presses where you were pressing with your finger and moves the cage to shift. All you need to do is to add a length of housing similar to the one in the photo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a length of housing you can cut it to fit. There are cutters that are designed for cutting bike cables, but if you don't have them you can use regular side cutters or a hack saw. After cutting look carefully at the cut and and use a pointy device to open up the hole where the inner cable goes. Sheldon Brown has a post where he &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html#cutting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;describes how to cut cables&lt;/a&gt;. If you don't have indexed shifters (and it looks like you probably don't) you can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html#housing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;helical cable&lt;/a&gt; which will be a bit easier to cut and clean up the ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I can't tell for sure from the photo is if there is a stop for the cable or a barrel adjuster on the derailer. Usually there will be a part called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madegood.org/bikes/repair/general-information-on-barrel-adjusters/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;barrel adjuster&lt;/a&gt; where the loop by your arrow is (in the photo below it is the silver part where the black cable housing ends at the derailer) that lets you fine tune the derailer adjustment. Some of them thread into a tapped hole in the body of the derailer, others use a nut on the threads of the barrel as a stop that rests against the derailer. I think that is how yours may be set up (either that or the loop is a cable stop and there is either no provision for fine adjustment on the derailer or it is somewhere else). If the adjuster is missing then there will be nothing for the end of the housing to push against and it will just pass freely through the hole. Your LBS would probably be the best source if yours is missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cd7J3.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cd7J3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T18:14:10.433" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T18:14:10.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29850" CreationDate="2015-09-26T19:51:50.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agree with batman that you don't want to paint it. Instead, you can think of skinning it with adhesive film. 3M and others sell series of stretchable adhesive films in various colors and textures that are used in the custom automobile and motorbike market. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They should be pliant enough to decorate your bike -- and if applied with care, won't be immediately visible as applied films. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T19:51:50.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34688" CreationDate="2015-09-26T23:18:54.310" Score="3" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not have quick release. You obviously unwind a lever on one side which unscrews the gear side from frame ... but once this is done there is no obvious way to me how to progress. All Scotts manuals ignore the issue making me think it is really simple (and I'm really stupid!) or has to go to the shop!!! unlikely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22792" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T01:09:43.610" Title="how do you remove rear wheel on scott genius 920?" Tags="&lt;rear-wheel&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34686" CreationDate="2015-09-27T01:09:43.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find any images just a description. Apparently it is similar to a conventional skewer. The difference is, the skewer is removed to drop the wheel out of the frame. The nut that typically is not removed is captured in the frame. Some owners have complained it is difficult to line up the skewer with the &quot;nut&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T01:09:43.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13507" CreationDate="2015-09-27T01:31:40.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the answer to an old post, but I've done this exact upgrade recently on my rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike is a 60cm frame, so it was worth saving.  Originally it had a 5 speed freewheel and 3 front chainrings.   Wheel rims were alloy.  The rear spokes were made of spaghetti so I was replacing one or two a month.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I scored a rear wheel with a freehub and QR skewer in it, which just fit inside the frame with some minor encouragement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought a 7 speed cassette for $45 NZ, and had to fit 3.5mm of spacers because it was actually an 8 speed freehub.  Spacers cost $5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old 5 speed indexed shifter was useless so I fitted a Shimano one with a lever that clicks to go up, and a push button to drop a gear.  Works well and cost about $25 NZ  I also fitted a new gear inner wire because I could, cost $6 NZ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I soldered the end of the gear cable rather than using a crimp-on cap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reused all the old outers, except I trimmed 10mm off where some of them were a bit sharp exiting the frame mounts.  All outers were lubed with Wolf's oil (a cheap and lightweight chinese oil.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely worth doing, and I have not yet broken a spoke in 3 months of riding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should find your rear derailereuyueyrueyruer will work fine over 7 or 8 gears, but do take the change to clean and lube it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not do anything with the front chainrings other than a clean and paint, and tweak up the limit screws.  They're still on a friction shifter, which is fine for my needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T01:31:40.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32149" CreationDate="2015-09-27T02:20:27.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek DS 8.6. I ride C&amp;amp;O Canal and GAP with panniers. 3or 4 of us who ride have bought new Treks in last 3-4 years. All of us have had broken spokes and wheel issues. I have  long distance cycled for 40 years and have loved my Treks until recently with multiple recalls and broken wheels. Have not experienced this with the older bikes. Feel something is wrong somewhere. I always have bike serviced before rides and feel these problems must be defective materials. The price is not cheap but the bikes seem to be unreliable!! Disappointed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22795" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T02:20:27.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T03:10:07.293" Score="0" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is for a &quot;Generic Add-on Motorize Bike 48v 1000w 26 Inch Front Wheel Electric Bicycle Motor Conversion Kit.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I find connectors to the motor and battery that are compatible before I buy them for this bike? I am not talking about voltage or wattage. I just want the connectors to fit without splicing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22796" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T12:52:48.020" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T12:52:48.020" Title="How do I match motor and battery leads on a generic e-bike conversion kit?" Tags="&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34653" CreationDate="2015-09-27T03:57:08.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used google: from the Campag website the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campagnolo.com/AU/en/Mechanical_Groupsets/athena/road&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Athena groupset&lt;/a&gt; has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_203_Technical_specifications_components_range_Campagnolo_2015.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Over-Torque BB&lt;/a&gt; (pdf) with a BSA thread. Further searching reveals that BSA is an english thread, which is the modern standard. So yes, the left hnd cup unscrews anticliockwise and the right hand one clockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T03:57:08.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34691" CreationDate="2015-09-27T04:03:41.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the info you've presented, its &quot;cross your fingers and hope&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you tell us anything further about the motor, motor kit?  Even a manufacturer could help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ebike kit used 7 pin DIN connectors with a screw-on barrel lock ring.  The battery connectors were generic automotive spade connectors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're choosing a connector, then voltage and current (ie wattage) is relevant, as is whether you want to hot-connect them.  Plus you need something that is water resistant and vibration tolerant.  (note spade connectors are neither of these... guess how I know that!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final thought - you're talking about a kit.  In my mind a kit comes with everything you need to do the job, possibly excluding batteries themselves.  However any parts not included will be common and well-described.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what's wrong with a splice?  A properly-done connection will outlive the wire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:03:41.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34643" CreationDate="2015-09-27T04:21:33.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There could be a number of problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First, technique&lt;/strong&gt;. This is all you, so it's cheap and fairly easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derailleur gears don't work well when the chain is going from the inside at one end to the outside at the other, as below. In those gears if you shift the front derailleur you can easily drop the chain. Or if you're trying to shift into that gear it will be hard or impossible to shift. It also wears your chain out faster. Don't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOgs8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LOgs8.png&quot; alt=&quot;cross over gears&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclechainrings.com/crosschaining.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;via Wickworks&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second, Adjustment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're using the gears properly it's usually possible to adjust even old, cheap parts to work tolerably. This may involve moving the derailleur on the seat tube as well as changing all the adjustment screws and possible straightening the rear derailleur hanger. Hopefully your LBS has done that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Third, New Parts&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New gear cables and outers are only about $US10 in most places, so they're normally fitted if there's more work required than a quick adjustment. If that hasn't been done you should probably do it just on general principles. That way you can rule out bad cables as the problem. But if the LBS says the cables are ok they almost certainly are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other parts I would only replace if someone knowledgeable suggests it. With a cheap bike it doesn't take many part replacements before it's cheaper to buy a new bike, and with cheap bikes that's often a better solution. See &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/244/terminology-index-a-list-of-bike-part-names-and-cycling-concepts/887#887&quot;&gt;bicycle shaped object&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I suggest is making sure you're shifting properly. If you make sure you're only using the matching 5 rear cogs for each chainring(*) and the problems persist I suggest visiting a different bike shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no great harm in trying to adjust things yourself as long as you're careful. You can easily adjust the rear derailleur so it will go into the spokes, for example, which is an expensive mistake to discover when you're riding the bike. Or turn the front derailleur far enough around the seat tube that the right crank will hit it. So test your adjustments inside while you're working on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get it all horribly mixed up and wheel it into a bike shop they can fix it up, and it won't be too much worse than if you hadn't done that (assuming you haven't broken anything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) the largest 5 rear cogs for the small chainring, the middle 5 for the middle chainring and the smallest 5 cogs for the large chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.613" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T09:00:28.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34664" CreationDate="2015-09-27T04:23:01.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you're comparing lights it makes more sense to look at the lux rating. Lux is the measure of &quot;light density&quot; – how brightly an known area is lit up by the light. Lumens measure the light output. You can think of lux as measuring how effectively the lumens are focused on the road. On thing to keep in mind is that a given output in lumens will produce a greater lux reading if the light is a tightly focused beam and a lower rating if the light covers a larger area. So it helps to have a way to compare beam patterns as well as light output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lights that I'm most familiar with are German dynamo lights. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/b&amp;amp;m-hl.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Busch &amp;amp; Müller&lt;/a&gt; Cyo light puts out 80 lux in relatively wide pattern. It is a very nice light to ride with on dark roads – it feels like a car with good headlights. The beam is well controlled, cars don't seem to mind it, and I get lots of positive &quot;that's a really bright light&quot; comments. The light (without a dynamo hub) costs about $100. If you ride much at night it is totally worth it – I run mine all the time, in the daytime it helps to make the bike stand out when you're riding in the shadows on bright days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:23:01.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34641" CreationDate="2015-09-27T04:30:32.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the step-through height must be no higher than the top of the pedal stroke&lt;/strong&gt;, since the rider will need to have their foot that high to ride the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception, obviously, is bikes for people who can't lift that high but can accept forced motion that high. But those are generally built for rehabilitation rather than primarily for transport, like the one below. Those do tend to be somewhat more flexible than is ideal, and often have quite low rider weight limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/68pIH.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/68pIH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sun Streamway ultra low step-through&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclistchic.com/?p=13651&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from CyclistChic&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T04:30:32.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31603" CreationDate="2015-09-27T10:25:36.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turning the preloaded dial towards the negative symbol will decrease the preload on the spring. Therefore if you find the forks are too stiff, backing off the preload will soften the fork. Alternatively if you wish to firm up the fork, turn the preload dial towards the positive symbol. This will compress the spring and stiffen up the suspension. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would adjust the preload with the lock out off, though I don't believe it would make any difference beside allowing you to compress the fork as you dial preload on/off to see what affect it has on the fork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14002" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T10:25:36.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T13:53:28.460" Score="10" ViewCount="3224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went on my first long bike ride yesterday - approximately 30 miles. (I know, it's cake to you grizzled road veterans out there, but I'm proud!) I had a great time and we took a fairly leisurely pace - approximately 10 mph or so. Lots of cycling and a lot of conversation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't have any problems with energy or anything, but during the ride I was a bit sore in the saddle. Due to our pace, I was able to ease this a few times by standing in the pedals and pedaling infrequently. By the time we were getting back (the last mile or so) I was really feeling it, but today it seems to be okay. Overall, it worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that the soreness is probably just the symptoms of a longer ride (and me not being used to that). However, I figured I'd ask. How would I, as a relatively new rider, know when saddle soreness is caused by a bad (for me) saddle or bad saddle adjustment versus extended time in the saddle? Are there specific symptoms that I should be looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I'm looking for generalizations, as I know that specifics change with each rider and bike. An example would be something like, &quot;if you have excessive soreness in your inner hamstring area, your seat may be too far forward&quot;, stuff like that. As it stands right now, I'm chalking this all up to the first ride, but I'd like to be knowledgable for future rides (and not ignore any potential warning signs I might miss).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As a note, for anyone who might ask - I'm riding a Fuji Traverse 1.7. Everything's stock. I'm about 5'10&quot;, 5'11&quot; with long limbs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22506" LastEditorUserId="22506" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T15:57:24.537" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T09:52:34.873" Title="First long bike ride: Determining the cause of saddle soreness" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34699" CreationDate="2015-09-27T14:01:28.357" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first ride gives almost everybody soreness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be using your sit bones with your saddle. You can roughly measure this at &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9815/is-it-possible-to-measure-your-sit-bones-at-home&quot;&gt;home&lt;/a&gt;. A too narrow or too wide saddle may give some pain (note this is not the same thing as soreness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you may want to invest in padded bike shorts. Those help some people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T14:01:28.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T14:27:08.623" Score="0" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought used bike with words &quot;gear mechanism is not working and set to 6th gear only&quot;. Ok, no problem. Riding was a bit harder, but fine for quadriceps :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later I had a flat tire on rear/back wheel. I took the wheel away, fixed the tire and when I was putting the wheel back, and idea occured: &quot;Why do I need to keep this non-funcional gear mechanism? Let's get rid of it!&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now... yes. Riding is very, very easy. Like I'm on the 1st gear. And I can be fast enough. So guys, please, is there any way I can make it &quot;harder&quot; again without buying some expensive stuff? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any suggestion!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ums5R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ums5R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd image: gear-mechnism found, but ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hq7c7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hq7c7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22802" LastEditorUserId="10595" LastEditDate="2021-01-10T12:12:19.630" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T12:12:19.630" Title="How to select gear on internally geared hub with broken shifter" Tags="&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34699" CreationDate="2015-09-27T16:39:58.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you tell if the pain is from pressure or abrasion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's pressure, then the it's &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; because it was your first long ride. It takes a while to get your butt &quot;battle hardened&quot; for longer rides. Sadly, one quickly loses this after a week or two off the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's abrasion, then check the saddle to see if anything is rubbing during your pedal stroke. Also check your shorts/pants for fabric seams that could cause issues. Finally, check your saddle height. If it's a bit too high then your hips will rock as you pedal, causing abrasion and leading to unhappiness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+1 to @batman's suggestion of padded bike shorts. You can also get a bike-specific padded liner and wear it in lieu of underwear under normal shorts/pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2572" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T16:39:58.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34699" CreationDate="2015-09-27T16:55:36.857" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to disagree about padding and &quot;getting used to it&quot; a bicycle that fits well is surprisingly comfortable. Fitting well means that the seat supports you by your &quot;sit bones&quot; (ischial tuberosities) and doesn't put pressure on the soft structures of your crotch. Padding can actually make it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/32313/how-to-judge-comfort-when-buying-a-new-saddle/32314#32314&quot;&gt;How to Judge Comfort When Buying a New Saddle&lt;/a&gt;, and especially the link to the article from Cervélo Cycles on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/ask-the-engineers/the-four-and-a-half-rules-of-road-saddles-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Four and a Half Rules of Road Saddles&lt;/a&gt; may help you think about adjusting your saddle or getting a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you will get more tolerant of the discomfort, but for now I'd use it to fine tune my seat and position on the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.683" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T16:55:36.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34709" CreationDate="2015-09-27T17:51:34.600" Score="1" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading the specifications of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Merida-Reacto-500-2015-Road-Bike_74461.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Merida Reacto 500 (2015)&lt;/a&gt; I noticed that at the bottom bracket is &lt;code&gt;Attached&lt;/code&gt;, I only ever read about brackets threaded in the frame or press fit brackets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21307" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T18:19:16.720" Title="What is an attached bottom bracket?" Tags="&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34699" CreationDate="2015-09-27T17:51:42.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At that speed and distance you did a 3h ride. Anytime you do the same thing for 3h that you're not used to doing, you will encounter some &quot;adjustment soreness&quot;. I am assuming you haven't done 3h rides in the past?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even grizzled veterans have to work back into saddle time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, get your fit double-checked by an experienced fitter. Be sure to explain what you felt and when. Also, a wide saddle isn't always the most comfortable. It's more a question of how proportional it is to your sit bones. The key is that you want the BONES to be in supportive contact with the saddle and not your soft tissue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T17:51:42.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34701" CreationDate="2015-09-27T18:01:50.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the image I'd guess your bike has Shimano Nexus 7 hub gear, though I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the gear probably defaults to 1st gear when there's no tension in the shifter cable. So, riding your bike is very light probably because you &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; riding on the 1st gear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that the hub gear might still be ok. It might've been stuck in the 6th gear earlier because either the cable or the shifter was stuck. Try attaching a cable back to the gear (it attaches to the bolt that is pointed by arrow in pic), pull it and see if the gear works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the case, you might be able to get a fully functional bike for a little money or effort - new shifters are not that expensive, especially if the gear is Nexus 7. It's a very common type and spare parts should be easy to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19611" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T18:01:50.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8822" CreationDate="2015-09-27T18:15:08.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Velox. If you can't get it, go to medical supply store and get COTTON bandage tape; you'll have to cot your own valve stem hole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Veloplugs are lighter weight. Good for race setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T18:15:08.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34704" CreationDate="2015-09-27T18:19:16.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Merida website list the crankset as FSA Gossamer Pro 52-36 386. FSA's web site show this to be a pressfit bottom bracket. Why it is spec'd as attached rather than pressfit I don't know. It is possible that this is how it was translated into English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T18:19:16.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30106" CreationDate="2015-09-27T19:49:14.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to minimize damage.  With all due respect to BSOrider, the assembly rotates so no matter what position the damaged portion is, it will have an affect on the bearings and races.  Pitted cones, races, and bearings need to be replaced &lt;strong&gt;period&lt;/strong&gt;.  Old Raleigh 3 speeds are quite ubiquitous so some LBS is likely to have them.  That having been said, this is a Raleigh 3 speed, not a artificial heart.  The amount of precision here is not that crucial.  The North Vietnamese used these things on the Ho Chi Minh Trail during the War.  Until you can get replacement parts, pack it in plenty of grease.  The main thing is stop reading your computer and ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22806" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T19:49:14.747" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31122" CreationDate="2015-09-27T20:00:10.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would upgrade to at least a 5 speed.  3 speeds have been around for a hundred years now and it is time for you to have a technology upgrade.  Sturmey AW had production problems with the move to Taiwan but they may have worked that out.  5 and 7 speeds are mainstream.  That should be more than enough to get you over the Williamsburg, Manhattan, or Brooklyn Bridges or up any hill in Central Park, Harlem or the Bronx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More gears that that Higher than that is more esoteric.  More LBS can service the Shimanos than the S-AWs.  I would go with what your LBS recommends unless you are comfortable repairing these in the unlikely event that something goes wrong.  My favorite shop is the one on Grand Street not far from the Williamsburg Bridge.  He's been there forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then if you want to drop serious coin there's the Rohloff Speedhub 14 speed, but that's out of most people's league.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheldon Brown (RIP) has excellent resources that are dated but still relevant.  I'd search for those.  But mostly I'd stop reading your computer and just ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22806" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T20:00:10.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34699" CreationDate="2015-09-27T22:49:18.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dirty little secret:  Butt hair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you ride, friction tugs on the hairs of your butt, irritating them.  And at some point the hairs actually get kind of tangled and matted with each other, leading to extreme tension on the hairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, eventually the most vulnerable hairs get pulled out from the motion, but you can bypass that step by shaving your butt.  (An electric razor or hair trimmer will do the job adequately -- blade is not needed.)  Be especially careful to get the area around &quot;the crack&quot;, as getting the hairs on both sides of &quot;the crack&quot; tangled together is &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; unpleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There is also, of course, the need to otherwise &quot;toughen&quot; the butt, but a amazing amount of the discomfort is due to the hairs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1584" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T22:49:18.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T23:37:32.753" Score="5" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a new bike and have ridden a frame which feels (and looks) amazing. I'm dead set on buying it but it's a single speed frame. Ideally I would like gears at the rear. It has a dropout which can house a derailleur but there are no cable stops on the frame. It has been suggested a just run the cable straight into the derailleur and should work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever tried/seen this setup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to some of the comments, this is the frame in question;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjClB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjClB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Inspired Hex&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a great ride and I'm really struggling to find anything that rides anywhere close it, hence my attempt at finding a solution. It may turn out that I do need to choose another frame, but I wanted to explore all options before going back to the drawing board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22813" LastEditorUserId="22813" LastEditDate="2015-09-28T18:45:30.293" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T18:45:30.293" Title="Gears on a singlespeed frame" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34699" CreationDate="2015-09-27T23:54:47.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to get sore and started getting numbness in my &quot;private parts&quot;. I researched it and found this is a massive problem, well researched, many opinions, and many people selling snake oil solutions. I resolved my issues with a split saddle (with a big trench in the middle) which has the front of it tapering down. This forces me back onto my sit bones and puts no pressure on the nerves suppling my &quot;manhood muscles&quot; (very important). I presume etiquette on the group is not to mention specific brands - but I bought a high end saddle with virtually no padding (padding has nothing to do with comfort) that positions me correctly. The is excellent. I still get sore from long rides but only in the way you expect your body to get sore when you punish it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22792" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T23:54:47.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22978" CreationDate="2015-09-28T01:12:12.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is something to be said for us lesser riders having an ability push the bike to a higher speed on flats or descents. Remember, in TT racing every second counts, even though I can only drive my 54x12 at 85rpm on the flats, I CAN drive it at 95 - 105rpm or more on even a little bit of a down so I can usually squeeze a few more MPH, often much more, out of the fast bits. Acceleration is not the point, smooth, super consistent, barely sustainable, painful power is the point. I make up for it with a few more teeth on my back end for the uphills, but the limitation there is my strength to weight on a given day...so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22814" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T01:12:12.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30737" CreationDate="2015-09-28T01:44:32.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This frame has some features in common with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.182701288550064.1073741855.172457916241068&amp;amp;type=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Fracesco Moser frame I saw&lt;/a&gt;. But there are differences, as well: the chainstays, and the fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T01:44:32.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34716" CreationDate="2015-09-28T04:55:22.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in the day you could buy clamp on stops and guides for derailer cables. I would think you can still find them, either as NOS or maybe somebody is still making them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure enough here is a page full of them at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeparts.com/categories/bike-maintenance/cables+housing/hangers+stops+guides+pulleys/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BikeParts.Com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T04:55:22.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34699" CreationDate="2015-09-28T09:45:16.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is unfortunately normal that if you start bicycling that&#xA;this problem arises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The German magic bullet against a sore bottom is &lt;em&gt;Hirschtalg&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;which is available here from xenofit. They have translated&#xA;it as &quot;stag fat&quot;, I hope that such a product is known in other&#xA;countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another one is &lt;em&gt;Sixtus Olympia Gesäßcreme&lt;/em&gt; which is quite famous&#xA;under professional bikers. Disadvantage: It smells a bit like cough&#xA;sweets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22816" LastEditorUserId="22816" LastEditDate="2015-09-28T09:52:34.873" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T09:52:34.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34716" CreationDate="2015-09-28T10:24:48.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could work, but you'll end up with unsightly cable ties or something to hold the housing to the frame.  Plus the shifting performance won't be great given all the slop that can accrue in a long unsupported housing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're fixed on this frame, how about getting an opinion from a local bike shop or frame builder, as to whether they can braze on some... &quot;braze-ons&quot;   That was how the extras were fastened on in the early days.  Of course all this comes at a direct cost to your wallet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Price this against an internally-geared hub like the nexus and make a decision based on price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or learn to ride a single speed and save.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T10:24:48.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34724" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-28T11:43:19.310" Score="4" ViewCount="3031" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend took her bike out for a spin and noticed the coaster brake wasn't working at all. Instead of braking it just back pedals, not like a free hub, but if you back pedal the bike actually moves backwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I know quite a bit about racers/time-trial bikes, I have no idea how to fix this. Does anyone here know what I can check/do to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22817" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T22:25:12.743" Title="Coaster brake suddenly not working (Nexus 3-speed hub)" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34730" CreationDate="2015-09-28T12:52:38.280" Score="7" ViewCount="1958" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please keep in mind that this question is specific to mountain bikes which roll through lots of dirt and mud. I heard stories of bikes that had their cable housing last for years, but I doubt that this applies to mountain bikes (or maybe it does).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I know when the housing needs to be replaced? Several options occur to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a rule of thumb, always replace the housing together with the cable. The reasoning is probably mostly the low cost of materials which is a few dollars. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To the other extreme, do not replace the housing unless you get some indication that it needs replacement. For example, visual inspection finds some wear and tear or the cable won't move freely while tugging it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something else.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current practice is to follow option 1 but I would be interested in knowing if there is perhaps a more efficient option backed by the experience of the masses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2512" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T20:00:20.967" Title="When is it time to replace the gear-cable housing?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;gears&gt;&lt;cable&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34725" CreationDate="2015-09-28T13:18:06.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nice cable set is like $15 more than the cable and is bit of work to cut and install housing.  If the housing is in good shape I keep it.  And yes I get years out of cables on even a mountain bike.  Clean and lube your cables at least once a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T13:18:06.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23305" CreationDate="2015-09-28T18:31:31.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Qualifications: I am a very longtime Brooks rider. I have a B17, Pro and C17 and love them all. I have put in a 630 km day on a B17.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say not to worry about breaking in your brooks. It should feel good from day one, for up to 100 km rides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to spend the month that you have riding around with an allen key (commuting will work) and focused on getting the saddle positioning right. This can make or break your entire position on the bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good starting point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slammed all the way back (this will get weight off your hands and upper body). Seriously, this is the most important thing. It's a problem with brookses especially because their rails aren't long enough. Just push it back as far as it will go and use a seatpost with setback.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;about high enough for you to touch the pedal with your heel when your knee is just a little bit bent (If your knees hurt a bit, then play with this, by increments of less than an eighth of an inch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tilted back a smidge so that the rear portion of the saddle is level. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22822" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T18:31:31.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34725" CreationDate="2015-09-28T20:00:20.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most quality cable housings now have a plastic lining. This allows the cable to slide freely and prevents binding and rust formation. If you use stainless steel cables they don't rust. My local shop has plain steel cables for $2.99 or stainless for $4.99. I am a big fan of Jagwire cable sets. The mountain sets include a small plastic sleeve for the exposed sections of cable. The housing ends are sealed by a small rubber section that extends into the above mentioned plastic sleeve. There is no way for any grit to enter easily. I change the cables only when there is evidence of fraying or breakage. I have had the same housings for 3 years and they seem to work like the day I put them on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T20:00:20.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-29T00:04:40.123" Score="2" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ZYmt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ZYmt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Berg Trailrock 100x&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the max amount of travel you guys think i could install on this kind of frame geometry? I have the same bike as the image. It comes with a suntour 100mm fork and a really stiff rear shock coil. The bike is designed for XC, but i would like to hit some bigger jumps on it. Aluminium frame. The bike model is Berg Trailrock 100x&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22824" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T08:39:45.077" Title="What kind of fork could i fit on my bike" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2015-09-29T00:15:21.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really an answer in the long term, but excluding air from the wound helps.  So as a get-home fix you can use something like clean gladwrap / sarin wrap to cover the wound after washing out all the dirt.  Also stops the wound from stinging as you get home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this method I have a 3&quot; line on my forearm where there are now no freckles, but you can't feel it, and hair grows normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus you can see through the plastic and observe if you've missed any lumps of road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T00:15:21.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34734" CreationDate="2015-09-29T00:26:41.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't consider anything over 140mm. beyond that, you're really messing up your geometry and endangering your frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that your frame's limits are really determined by how much you weigh. If you're 140 pounds, the frame will take much bigger jumps than if you're 240.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say that the rear shock is really stiff. It seems there is an imbalance in stiffness between the front and rear suspensions. If you don't have the preload on your Suntour cranked all the way up, you should try doing so before upgrading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T00:26:41.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25183" CreationDate="2015-09-29T02:09:48.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Common sizes are a 5 or 6 millimetre Allen key or Hex Driver on the back side of the crank. Or, you can also use a 15mm pedal spanner on the two flats which will be on the pedal-side of the thread.  These tend to be a bit thinner than a normal adjustable spanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do be aware your left foot pedal is a left hand thread so you turn it the opposite way to tighten than what you would expect. The rule is that tightening the pedal will tighten the chain if you don't stop the crank rotating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider why did it unscrew in the first place?  Was it never tight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently found clipless pedals with either 8mm or 10mm hex sockets on the end.   That's a hefty-sized hex key, too big to carry on the bike for regular use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T02:11:15.207" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T02:11:15.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34742" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-29T06:43:53.557" Score="9" ViewCount="2949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to using a bicycle with multiple speeds. I got this new bicycle 4 days back with Shimano 6 speed rear gears. I don't know much else about the components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no issue when I move to higher gear (2 to 3 , 3 to 4 and so on.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I face issue when I try to shift gears from 5 to 4 or from 4 to 3 etc. The chain does not shift and it makes a sound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a trick to get it to shift into the desired gear, I shift to next higher gear when the chain makes sound and then get back to desired gear. e.g. if I am riding in 5th gear and I want to shift to 4th I shift to 3rd for a moment and get back to 4th and then all's well with no more sound from chain. But I am afraid this trick may not be good and that I may be doing something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I request guys to suggest me proper way to shift to lower gears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to find videos on youtube but they didn't help much. The videos show shifting should not be done while pedaling under pressure, so I followed this but shifting was still not smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22830" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T22:27:19.930" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T06:38:00.313" Title="difficulty in shifting to lower gear on shimano (6 speed rear gear)" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;shifting&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34773" CreationDate="2015-09-29T09:19:34.000" Score="3" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its quite intuitive that tires have maximum pressure figure - inflate it more and something could explode. Furthermore, it is common knowledge that under-inflated tires result in snake bites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What puzzles me is that all tires indicate minimum pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be somewhat justified about DH tires, which tend to be produced with thick sidewalls and thick soft thread pattern, resulting in reduced  pinch flats (among other advantages). However, on different cross-country tires I have seen minimum pressures from below 2bar to 2.7bar at least. Is this just marketing or does the number mean anything? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, how can the manufacturer know what the riding terrain and rider's style is? In my opinion those affect chosen tire pressure a lot more than sidewall thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T10:29:56.557" Title="What is the significance of tire minimum pressure?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34748" CreationDate="2015-09-29T09:48:28.690" Score="13" ViewCount="11132" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In general, ball bearings are applicable in higher speeds because of the smaller contact area and smaller friction force, but roller bearings can carry greater loads because the load applied to the contact area produces smaller contact stresses.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   -- Principles of Mechanical Engineering Design, Liubomir Dimitrov&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In bicycle applications there are neither high speeds nor high loads (compared to cars or industrial machines). However, I would assume that the &quot;smaller contact stresses&quot; would result in significantly longer service life of the bearing, even if water and contaminants penetrate the bearing. And still the only time I have heard of &lt;a href=&quot;http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/tapered-roller-bearing-radial-high-performance-169-3237105.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bicycle roller(pin) bearings&lt;/a&gt; is in the hyped &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFKmO.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lefty&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are ball bearings used exlusively in bikes e.g. in the headset where some minor friction would not be a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T23:01:19.617" Title="Why only ball bearings on bicycles?" Tags="&lt;bearings&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34744" CreationDate="2015-09-29T10:08:25.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will see  sealed cartridge bearings in many bottom brackets, which use roller bearings. Also common in head sets. Ball bearings were more widley used up to around 10 years ago. But still common in pedals and hubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20322" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T10:08:25.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34743" CreationDate="2015-09-29T10:18:03.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a minimum amount of pressure required to keep the tire bead seated on the rim. If the pressure is too low the tire could unseat especially while cornering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T00:31:14.673" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T00:31:14.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34747" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-29T10:56:58.933" Score="1" ViewCount="4060" Body="&lt;p&gt;a 1 1/8” Aluminum, 1.5 Taper Steerer will it fit on my frame?&#xA; My frame is gt chucker 3.0 26er and the fork is manitou minute 26er [enter image description here][1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RALLx.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RALLx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20694" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T03:37:57.377" Title="fork steerer compatability" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34744" CreationDate="2015-09-29T11:15:52.497" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think several of your assumptions are incorrect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no high speeds: rim dynamos spin quite fast, up to 10,000rpm, and that does require effort on the part of the designers. Typically the drive wheel on those will have a radius of about 1cm, or a circumference of 3 1/3rd cm and 30 revolutions per metre. At 10m/s (30kph) that means 300rps or 18000 rpm. This is why they make such a high pitched whining noise when in use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no high torque: a 100kg cyclist standing on a 165mm crank is exerting about 1kN at 0.165m, or 165Nm. That's comparable torque to a mid-range car. I repeatedly snapped a 8mm high tensile  bolt in the drive system of my four wheel load bike, and replacing that with industrial freewheels meant buying two of the highest rated units I could find (German conveyer belt parts rated to 250Nm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No high loads: a touring cyclist with 50kg on the rear rack, plus half their 100kg body weight is putting a load of 100kg or 1kN on a 10mm diameter hollow rear axle. Those axles and the dropouts they bear on must be made of hard steel to stand the load, where the load bearing parts of a car or truck are typically made of much softer steel. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only ball bearings are used: modern sealed bottom brackets commonly use roller or needle bearings, as do many headsets. Internally geared hubs have used needle bearings for many years. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ri-z.html&quot;&gt;Sheldon Brown describes roller bearings in his glossary&lt;/a&gt;, for example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is that various types of bearings have been used in bicycles and will likely continue to be. Again, Sheldon discusses &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus8.shtml&quot;&gt;needle bearings in Shimano hub gears&lt;/a&gt; from some years ago and they're still &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ternbicycles.com/au/features/shimano-alfine-11-drivetrain&quot;&gt;mentioned in the marketing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem not unique to bicycles but especially relevant to them, is that more precise bearings are more vulnerable to grit and also to damage. So especially needle bearings need to be carefully protected from dust, sand, and forces outside their design range. Unfortunately doing that inside a suspension unit is hard, and last time I looked Cannondale had not solved the problem (my HeadShock is unmaintainable after only about 10Mm, I've seen multiple lefty shocks fail during a race because of light rain and fine grit causing them to abrade to uselessness very quickly)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But inside a hub or headset, for example, they can be amazing. I've talked to people who've ridden 20Mm on an Alfine 8, for example, with no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T11:28:12.710" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T11:28:12.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-29T13:22:47.277" Score="4" ViewCount="1641" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you think, guys? Or should not I try it at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cR0zX.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cR0zX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22802" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T20:23:55.103" Title="How long will I survive? 5 wheel spokes missing" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34762" CreationDate="2015-09-29T13:23:38.073" Score="7" ViewCount="1063" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cycle every day because I live in a city and I find it a fun, fit and convenient mode of transport. I am not a cycling hobbyist, am only averagely fit and know pretty much nothing about bike engineering. So every year or so I take my bike in to the shop for servicing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike in question is a Dahon Jack - it's a full-sized frame folding model. So the frame design is a bit unusual. It looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6w4b0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6w4b0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time it was serviced, a couple of weeks ago, the man in the shop drew my attention to a small crack in the frame. It's on the very top bar and has originated in the gap in the frame where the bike folds. Here's a photo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ldAOi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ldAOi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two white lines on the tip of the crack are scratches I put there to see if it's getting any bigger. It hasn't in the two weeks since it was discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy in the shop said that while any frame crack is serious, this probably wasn't a big deal. Because it's a folding bike, the load is carried on the thick diagonal strut instead of the top bar. So even if that top bar does suddenly split, it's not going to cause the bike to collapse or throw me off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He advised me not to take it off-road (which I never do anyway) but that otherwise I should be safe to ride for the time being, unless the fracture grew significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is he right? Should I get this bike replaced right away? If not, how long do you think it might be safe for me to continue to ride, and what warning signs should I look for to say it's no longer safe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22836" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T01:18:11.683" Title="Fracture in folding frame - safe to ride?" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;safety&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34750" CreationDate="2015-09-29T13:32:32.460" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope. Don't ride it. It's hosed. You risk catastrophic failure riding this wheel, Other spokes will snap soon due to more load put on them and uneven tension. That is if it's even true enough to not rub the brakes or chainstays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could replace the broken spokes and have a working wheel if your rim wasn't damaged severly like it appears to be. If you've rode on this for a while, there is a chance that the existing spokes are over stressed and should be replaced as well. I would rebuild the wheel with new spokes and rim if it was my bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T15:37:49.660" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T15:37:49.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34751" CreationDate="2015-09-29T14:53:44.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like a failure from hoop stress, which is (likely) caused by over-tightened locking lever. You can see the crack originate from the lock ring and propagating in axial direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not say it's safe. Just make sure you cycle slowly, as the folding bicycle was designed to do just the same. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please bear in mind that it is an unnecessary, albeit small, risk. You lost a safety measure, just like riding a bike with only one brake as an analogy. It looks as though the frame is aluminium and that material fails catastrophically once the crack is initiated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T00:28:42.063" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T00:28:42.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34750" CreationDate="2015-09-29T15:26:51.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are paired spokes, and there's a reason they pair them up. If that was a rear wheel, I might ride it a mile or two if I had to. But not a front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really curious how you managed to break five spokes in one 90 degree section of that wheel. That's not normal behavior. There is something really wrong with that wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20494" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T15:26:51.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29933" CreationDate="2015-09-29T15:35:31.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much heavier people ride various kinds of MTBs that have been reconfigured for riding on the road, and do not experience regular tire problems (blowouts, punctures). You seem to be suggesting that your weight and size is the cause of the tire problems, but that is not consistent with my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested by other respondents, you want some good quality slicks or semi-slicks on this bike to improve rolling resistance. You can run some of them at higher pressures than you might run a knobby tire, which also helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you install new tires, be sure that your rim tape/rim strip is not the source of your &quot;blowouts.&quot; In other words, once rim tape gets tired, and the adhesive doesn't work as well as it used to, the tape can shift around under the tube, exposing the spoke holes, causing flats. Similarly, if you have an incorrectly sized (too narrow) rim strip, you can have the same problem. Bottom line, be sure your rim tape or rim strip is not uncovering the spoke holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You did not mention what width of tire you're running on the Marin, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2002&amp;amp;Brand=Marin&amp;amp;Model=Bobcat%20Trail&amp;amp;Type=bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on BikePedia it shows the bike is typically spec'd with something around 26&quot; by 2&quot;&lt;/a&gt; so any decent tire around that size should be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Schwalbe Marathon Plus &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/-XUFVrl0UT4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;can be hard to mount&lt;/a&gt;, and they can be &quot;tall&quot; for a given size, but they are about as low-maintenance and puncture resistant as you can get. There are a few different SMP tires available for 26&quot; rims:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/4436&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marathon Plus, 50-559, Black-Reflex, Wire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/2159&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marathon Plus Tour, 50-559, Reflex, Wired&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/4435&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marathon Plus, 47-559, Black-Reflex, Wire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/2157&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marathon Plus Tour, 47-559, Reflex, Wired&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That is what I would suggest, along with some decent-quality tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T15:35:31.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34750" CreationDate="2015-09-29T17:19:02.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drum &amp;amp; disc brakes do put more stress on the spokes.  I can't tell if that's the issue or not, but either way, it's time for a new rim and spokes.  You can save the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11445" LastEditorUserId="11445" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T20:23:55.103" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T20:23:55.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34751" CreationDate="2015-09-29T17:29:38.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No frame fracture is safe. You wouldn't know how stress in the frame will be redistributed and which point become the next one. Especially if defect is located in frame's triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22725" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T17:29:38.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34742" CreationDate="2015-09-29T17:38:00.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You either need to adjust the derailleur (specifically, the bowden cable tension) or consider a higher-level setup. Cheap stuff works as it costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22725" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T17:38:00.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34744" CreationDate="2015-09-29T19:19:14.003" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly I disagree with the comment about high speed. The highest velocity bearings are plain: crankshaft bearings in a full size car engine are plain, whereas in a radio controlled model, ball bearings are used. Where velocity (rpm x diameter) is high the oil wedge effect tends to centre the shaft (hydrodynamic lubrication). This can be further enhanced if the oil is pumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straight roller bearings are great at supporting radial loads, but useless at supporting axial loads. Where there is no axial load (for example a generator driven by an engine, either directly through a sliding spline or via belt drive) they are a good solution. In most bicycle applications, axial forces are present, therefore a total of 3 bearings must be considered: roller, plus axial thrust in each of two directions. (in some applications you might find a plain bearing for small axial thrust, but I can't think of one on a bike.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ball bearings are much simpler to make, and two ball bearings forms a great all-purpose joint. On a bike wheel, the two bearings are at the ends of the axle, as far apart as possible, which is exactly where we need them to resist non-axial torque applied to the wheel. In this respect, the central part of a roller bearing would be doing nothing, so you might want two roller bearings, one at each end, plus some additional bearings for the axial thrust (getting complicated isn't it?) The better solution is to have a single ball bearing at each end of the axle, with a &lt;strong&gt;conical form&lt;/strong&gt;, which enables it to resist both radial and axial forces. Tapered roller bearings do exist, but they need a cage to help guide the rollers, which avoids the need for four bearings on a wheel, but adds other complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, headsets definitely do need some kind of antifriction bearing. There is an enormous nonaxial torque: your weight is trying to push the forks up and forward, except when you apply the brakes, when they will be pushed back. To be able to steer properly, you need a smooth movement there. Anyone who has tried to ride a bike with a damaged headset will know that it is possible, but uncomfortable and dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20086" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T19:19:14.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34751" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:15:53.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone has to say live dangerously.  I would ride it.  Don't ride it hard but you should not ride a Dahon hard in the first place.  I looked at how the bike &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYpiQ22gvmA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;folds&lt;/a&gt; and unfolds and that is not a high strength connection in the first place.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bikes don't typically explode when they fail.  You get a bend and sometimes you don't even crash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it does die if you don't need a folder you can find decent used bikes for $400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T01:18:11.683" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T01:18:11.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34744" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:30:20.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current answers give lots of technical reasons for the use of ball bearings while noting that other types of bearings are sometimes use on bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However they miss the most important factor.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Ball bearings are cheap!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:30:20.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34751" CreationDate="2015-09-29T21:43:02.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd reduce riding as much as possible, and either replace it or go talk to a competent frame builder for a repair.   The more you ride on it, the worse it will get over time, even if that crack doesn't appear to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less frame repairing means it'll cost less sooner, leaving it later may mean more work which will increase costs.  If you like the frame then its worth looking after and repairing.... you're unlikely to find another identical frame, and it may have the same problems over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:43:02.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34747" CreationDate="2015-09-29T22:27:01.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your headtube is 34mm in diameter then only EC34 Headset can fit in.&#xA;This means that you can only go as much as 1-1/8 inch fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there is no conversion kit that I have heard of for adapting 34mm headtube to 1.5 inch steerer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your headtube is larger than 34 mm, you might have a chance. Take a look at this doc: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/HOPEHEADSETS2011Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/HOPEHEADSETS2011Web.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xEGpV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xEGpV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastEditorUserId="14414" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T03:37:57.377" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T03:37:57.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6087" CreationDate="2015-09-30T00:12:53.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My-my, time flies!  Back when this question was asked, bike computers were time and speed and ran off magnetic sensors.  Five years later everyone has a smart phone with GPS and more computing power than the space shuttle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my answer is strava.  Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://strava.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://strava.com/&lt;/a&gt; and install the app.  Do your normal rides while recording them with the app and then upload/synch them.  There's a good chance someone has defined segments on your trip already, but if not you can set up your own public or private segments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you improve, you'll see your segment times drop on &quot;Victoria Street Climb&quot; or whatever.  Plus there are monthly distance challenges too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, here's my last exercise ride &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.strava.com/activities/400893483&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.strava.com/activities/400893483&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been known to battle through a headwind, turn and do a spanking assisted segment time, then turn back to the original direction again to get home.  I've dropped 10 kilos in 8 months too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer may be perceived as a product recommendation rather than an answer;  I think its both and recordings like this do provide motivation on the ride to/from work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T00:12:53.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27" CreationDate="2015-09-30T02:20:36.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many options available to help reduce the likelihood a chance encounter with goathead thorns will interrupt or end your ride for the day. Not all of these options involve replacing your tires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is in large part a consolidation and expansion on the existing answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use Puncture Resistant/flat-resistant Clincher Tires such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pocket-lint.com/review/2192/specialized-armadillo-tyres-cycling-puncture&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Specialized Armadillo&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.continental-tires.com/bicycle/tyres/mountainbike-tyres/x-king-protection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Continental X-King ProTection&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt; Widely available, no special tools/equipment/supplies needed to install if using puncture resistant clinchers. Some types of puncture resistant tires have very long wearing treads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt; Puncture resistant clinchers can be difficult to change when you do get a flat, can have relatively higher tire weights and are sometimes less flexible and/or harder than normal clinchers. Less effective against side-wall penetration than against tread penetration, but usually still better than conventional tires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use Tire liners: Either commercially available ones such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://mrtuffy.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mrtuffy&lt;/a&gt; or home-made ones such as an old punctured tube or the tread cut from another tire&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt; Normally a pretty in-expensive option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt; Added weight, additional difficulty changing tires, can reduce the flexibility of the tire resulting in a rougher ride. Provides only limited side-wall penetrations. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Run slime, no-stans or other sealants in tubes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt; Can be very good at stopping leaks from simple punctures. Allows the user to use whatever type of tire they wish and doesn't harm the flexibility of the tires like some other options do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt; You may have to periodically replenish the sealant, it adds weight, some types of sealants form balls of gunk as they dry up, can sometimes gum up the valve, can partially glue the tube to the tire in the event of punctures and if the tube fails for some reason it can create a real mess. Depending on the type of sealant, can be hard to install in tubes without removable cores.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use tubeless tires&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt; Lighter weight (even with sealant) than some of the other options. Depending on the tire selected you can find very flexible/grippy tires. Almost eliminates the likelihood of pinch flats. There are tubeless tires available with addition flat protection that still retain a high degree of flexibility such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/off-road_tires/nobby_nic_hs463&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Nobby Nic's Evolution with SnakeSkin or Double Defense&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt; Requires specialized wheel-sets and/or rimstrips and valves. Requires you run sealant. Tires can be hard to mount initially and if not using UST compatible rims and tires an air compressor may even be required to get the tires to seat. Multiple punctures can release enough air before holes seal the tire becomes susceptible to burping. If this happens it can be hard to reseal the tire in the field. If you are on a longer trip you still need to carry spare tubes in the event the tire gets a large cut or burps so much the tire becomes unseated. The sealant can create a mess when you have to install a tube in the field. True tubeless/tubeless ready tires tend to be more expensive than normal clinchers. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use thorn resistant tubes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt; A relatively inexpensive option. Allows use with any type of clincher tire. Can be combined with sealants for additional protection. Simple installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt; very thick, less flexible&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use solid core tires&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt; No air to leak out of the tire and cause a flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt; less/little flexibility results in less traction and a harsher ride, depending on the exact type, may be more possibility for rim damage when hitting obstructions as the tire is more likely to transmit the shock than absorb it. Are very heavy compared to other options.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T02:30:14.983" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T02:30:14.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21211" CreationDate="2015-09-30T06:06:51.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going to use the original &quot;calliper brakes&quot; then you cannot use a Vee-Brake lever as it pulls too much cable and will not work properly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can obtain a traditional brake lever, Velo-Orange supply a suitable type (&quot;VO City Bike Brake Levers&quot;), with a 23.8mm clamp to fit traditional drop-bars. Otherwise, you may be able to remove the clamp from the original levers and swap them into the new levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option to consider is the &quot;Dia-Compe Guidonnet Brake Levers.&quot; They are intended to be fitted to drop-bars and allow you to brake from the top of the bar and from the sides as well, but not from the bottom of the drops. They are a traditional French &quot;Cyclo-touriste&quot; design that work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to improve the braking with the original callipers, purchase some high-quality brake pads such as the Kool-Stop &quot;Salmon Compound&quot; type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22843" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T06:06:51.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T07:56:49.197" Score="2" ViewCount="60" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a GT Avalanche 1.0 (it's 26&quot; hardtail - so I think this question can be useful not only for me) and I like it. But now I can afford some upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goals are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reduce friction loss - I don't ride much on paved roads, so using slick tires is not an option for me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase braking power. My brakes are Avid Elixir 1 and I think I can get bigger rotors - will it be worthy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4007" LastEditorUserId="4007" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T08:59:01.270" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T08:59:01.270" Title="XC upgrade plan" Tags="&lt;upgrades&gt;&lt;xc&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34770" CreationDate="2015-09-30T08:49:47.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stopping on disks can be improved by changing your pads to a softer type - You want to avoid sintered pads (ones with metal baked into them) and go for resin pads.  Downside is resin ones wear quicker, and are not as good in the wet.  Check the thickness and runout of your rotor too.   Don't bother upgrading your rear brake, the front does most of the work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option might be to change the whole front brake system to a hydraulic instead of a cable based one.  They give more feedback as the fluid heats and expands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mud and gravel don't really have &quot;rolling resistance&quot; in the same way a hard surface like a road does.  Can you rephrase that part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try a different tread pattern on your tyres/tires, one with more and smaller knobs in the middle of the tread. This will be noticeable on road and packed soil.   If you want to paddle your way through mud then bigger chunkier lugs will help, but only on the shoulders, so will only bite if you've sunk in a bit, or when you're leaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T08:49:47.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34827" CreationDate="2015-09-30T09:05:40.010" Score="2" ViewCount="824" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking to get a Montague bike for mountain biking. The reason for a folder is easy storage and transportation. And reviews I read all say good things about their bikes. &#xA;There are these models available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.montaguebikes.com/compare-mountain-folding-bikes.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.montaguebikes.com/compare-mountain-folding-bikes.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have almost 0 knowledge on MTB, but based on my experience with other bikes, these frames are probably the same, only different components (except x50, which uses v brake so the frame/fork maybe different). So I am thinking to get the second least expensive paratrooper then buy a good fork later when needed. So what kind of fork can I put on this bike? Please let me know the points to consider (e.g travel, wheel size, etc etc remember I have almost 0 knowledge). I will be using this bike on off road, trails, etc but nothing too rough(jumping etc) in my mind. Or is the stock fork (SR Suntour. Suspension XCT V4. 80mm travel) already enough for my need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, I want to get a decent enough fork so I won't upgrade soon after that (at least I hope LoL). So the fork can be a little more than my needs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17275" LastEditorUserId="17275" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T09:16:09.367" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T15:16:30.650" Title="what suspension fork should I get" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34743" CreationDate="2015-09-30T09:58:32.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if the bead remains seated and no pinch-flats are suffered, an underinflated tyre will over-stress its sidewalls whenever there is a torque difference between the bead and the contact patch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem would be visible as rippling in the sidewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stress results in the carcass grain becoming visible through the sidewall rubber over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many fatbike tyres, designed to be used below 10psi, will develop visible carcass grain over the life of the tyre. I would not expect a standard MTB tyre to experience sidewall rippling at all if maintained above a minimum pressure appropriate for the load (i.e. a higher minimum pressure for heavier, faster or rougher riders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T09:58:32.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34779" CreationDate="2015-09-30T10:28:08.293" Score="2" ViewCount="1247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to have the ability to change chainsets depending on terrain. I currently have the compact Ultegra 6750 chainset and am after a 6700 53/39 for the flats and races etc. Are the axels the same diameter and width? I have an S-works 2011 tarmac. Not sure what the BB is, I think it's a press fit BB30 but I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18963" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T11:56:13.993" Title="Can I swap out an Ultegra 6750 crankset with a 6700?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34743" CreationDate="2015-09-30T10:29:56.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The minimum pressure is an estimate that will most probably work for the majority of people in generic riding conditions. Not going below the minimum pressure may prevent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loss of control due to insufficient traction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pinch flats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;burped air in case of tubeless&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyre unseating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rim bending on harsh hits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tyre carcass premature wear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;rotation of the tyre/tube combo within the rim (can cause tube valve failure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, that number just an estimate. An aggressive rider, a heavy rider, or a really rough terrain may require higher than the minimum suggested values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T10:29:56.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T10:55:15.513" Score="2" ViewCount="2316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in getting a bike with 27.5+ wheels (that could features tyres up to 3.25&quot;.&#xA;I'd like to know what is the &lt;em&gt;thinnest&lt;/em&gt; tyre I could mount on such a wheel in case I want to have more speed and less &quot;power&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14620" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T20:15:44.290" Title="Slimmest tyres for semifat rims" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34839" CreationDate="2015-09-30T11:17:55.837" Score="2" ViewCount="1573" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know whether TRP Spyre (SLC) mechanical disc brakes can be used with other vendors' 160mm rotors, i.e. the ones for SRAM's HRD brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22846" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T07:30:56.987" Title="TRP Spyre SLC brakes compatible with other vendors' rotors?" Tags="&lt;disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34774" CreationDate="2015-09-30T11:56:13.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spindles should be the same width and diameter. Seeing as how you already have an Ultegra crankset, you should be able to use the larger Ultegra crankset without switching the BB or getting an adapter. But you will have to move the front derailleur up and probably re-cable it. Switching will make you have to constantly move it so you'll have to leave enough at the end when you're in compact so it'll fit when you move to standard.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;If you're looking for more gearing but don't feel like switching everything back and forth, you could always switch to mid compact chainrings (52 x 36).  They use the same BCD as compact and it should be once and done without having to move your derailleur every time you switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22608" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T11:56:13.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34772" CreationDate="2015-09-30T14:14:58.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a difficult question to answer as there are a lot of personal variables. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;i&gt;&quot;Nothing too rough in my mind&quot;&lt;/i&gt; being the biggest variable.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For a lot of flat or rolling terrain &lt;b&gt;without&lt;/b&gt; many obstacles; rock gardens, gnarly roots, etc, I would say the stock fork is fine. I have an old 26er with a similar fork which does fine on fast rolling trails but sometimes bottoms out on steep but abrupt drop ins.&lt;p&gt;&#xA;However, to be honest, if I was worried about the fork being able to handle the terrain, I most likely wouldn't even consider riding a folding bike on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22608" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T14:14:58.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2015-09-30T16:21:01.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always say to myself &quot;&lt;strong&gt;back off&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; - as both pedals unscrew towards the back which helps me remember which way to turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22852" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T16:21:01.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T17:07:17.640" Score="1" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just tried to tighten up the nuts at the end of my crank but for some reason the pedals don't work in unison and now the left and right pedals are at a 90 degree angle instead of 180 and I'm not sure what's wrong.  How could I fix it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it as instead of one pedal being at 6 o'clock and one at 12 o'clock like normal, one is at 12 o'clock and the other one is at 3 o'clock. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22854" LastEditorDisplayName="user18403" LastEditDate="2018-11-06T10:40:05.490" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T10:40:05.490" Title="Pedals not turning together" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34784" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T18:00:12.793" Score="4" ViewCount="3721" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell after speaking with 2 different Fox Service technicians, nobody seems to know why their forks have this well-known problem with negative air pressure increasing and migrating, and not re-equalizing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand the whole thing, but there's only one port that allows air to move from the positive to negative chambers. I've now had 2 of the 2015 RC2's and both began doing the same thing after about 3 months of riding: the stanchions started not fully retracting when I am standing next to bike, compressing fork as far as possible and immediately lifting front tire off the ground. I tried &quot;burping&quot; with a ziptie between dust wipe and stanchion, but nothing there. I will next try removing the top cap and rod and slick honey it as directed and see if that fixes the problem, as well as do an oil change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One year ago, with my first 2015 RC2 (160/36 - 26&quot;) Fox had me send it in under warranty - they ended up sending me a brand new fork, but it was never clear what the problem was. I hope I don't have to send this one in. Even one of the techs I talked to said he had asked an engineer about this who also didn't know what causes this problem(!) Hard to believe as it's a well-known issue, and I'd like to know how to prevent it. Btw, I have not been riding at high altitudes. I have bottomed out a few times - but why should that, if it has something to do with this, be the cause?? thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22855" LastEditorUserId="452" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T10:53:16.210" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T07:01:45.877" Title="2015 Fox RC2 160/36 (650b) fork - negative air pressure problem" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34786" CreationDate="2015-09-30T18:15:49.257" Score="5" ViewCount="2855" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the fixie world. I'm planning to buy a fixie bike though, but to start right away would be difficult especially when I'm pedaling down hill. Is it possible to change the fixie bike into the freewheeler with both front and back brakes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please HELP!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22856" LastEditorUserId="22856" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T05:15:19.503" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T05:15:19.503" Title="Can we turn a fixie bike into a freewheeler?" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;&lt;freewheel&gt;&lt;flip-flop-hub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34785" CreationDate="2015-09-30T18:24:56.483" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy a flip hub rear wheel where one side is fixed, the other free (Some bikes even come with them). You just take the wheel off, flip sides and put it back on. Brakes will depend on the frame but most frames allow for the installation of brakes. For the rear brake, you'll just have run full cable housing along the frame with either wire ties or cable clamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22608" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T18:24:56.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34772" CreationDate="2015-09-30T19:02:00.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of points to consider when buying a mountain bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type of local terrain, are the trails near you flat or do you live in a hilly area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expected development in the sport, are you going to dabble or are you the type to jump in with both feet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The type of riding you expect to do, are you interested in cross country (epic rides with long hard climbs and less rough stuff), trail riding (short way up and long way down, tyres mostly on the ground and some rough stuff), downhill (walk, car, truck or lift to the top - shortest way down regardless of the terrain) or something called Enduro which is all the rest mixed up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you start thinking about the bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Geometry - XC, trail and downhill bikes all have different geometries&#xA;which determine how upright you sit on the bike, match this to your&#xA;riding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel - XC has the lowest travel, downhill the most&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheelsize - Doesn't make a difference when you're starting out. &#xA;                 27.5&quot; is the new industry standard. &#xA;                 26&quot; components will continue to be produced but you'll see a focus on low and end parts with no mid range. &#xA;                 29&quot; good if you want an XC bike or are tall, not really required otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drive Train - Doesn't matter when starting out, but always buy the best you can afford&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speak to your local bike shop they will help you understand all of this and find the right bike for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of folding bikes, these should only be purchased where storage and transportation is your first thought and ease of riding or enjoyment is second. They are good if you need something to ride at the end of a long car or train journey but not something for everyday use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of the Suntour Fork as you improve you will want to replace the fork with something that is a bit more forgiving and adjustable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T19:02:00.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34777" CreationDate="2015-09-30T19:10:54.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual answer is &quot;Which tire fits safely on which rim?&quot; on this page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T19:10:54.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34777" CreationDate="2015-09-30T20:10:40.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't go much narrower than 2.4 on the 27.5+ wheelset which is usually 40 to 50mm wide, maybe 2.2 if it's got 35mm wide rims as some setups prefer. Keep in mind that you drop your bottom bracket quite a bit when you size down, so you might get more pedal strikes and different handling by using smaller tires. I wouldn't go smaller than 2.4&quot; tires on a bike designed for 27.5+ tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you could likely use a standard 29x2.2 tire on a 29er wheelset on the same bike which should be about the same diameter as your 27.5+ wheel &amp;amp; tire. It's a bit more expensive to have a separate wheelset, but it can give you the versatility to swap between fat and skinny widths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="2997" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T20:15:44.290" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T20:15:44.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34783" CreationDate="2015-09-30T21:10:36.193" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you take one of the crank arms off at some point?&#xA;Did one fall off accidentally?&#xA;Or is someone playing a trick on you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove dust cap if its in the crank's axle.&#xA;Unscrew the nut of the left side crank, probably a 14mm socket.&#xA;Take the pedal crank off - it should be really hard and you need a crank puller, or it will be suspiciously easy.&#xA;Put crank arm back on so its the right position compared to the other side.&#xA;Reinstall nut/bolt and tighten it up good and tight.&#xA;Reinstall dust cap if you had one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been guilty of doing it wrong... mostly because of working later at night when tired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T21:10:36.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2015-09-30T22:32:03.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't a mnemonic, but this is the technique I use. For both loosening and tightening, the pedal should be positioned such that pushing the wrench downwards would rotate the wheel forwards, regardless of which side pedal you're working on. This means that you can rotate the wrench without holding the crank or the pedal in place, you just need to hold the bike to keep it from rolling forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To loosen the pedals, hold the spanner like this and push the end of the wrench down:&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j93Ca.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j93Ca.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Loosening the pedals&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to tighten, hold the wrench like this and push down:&#xA;    &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1nQ5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1nQ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tightening the pedals&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't even have to think about which side you're doing, just whether you're loosening or tightening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side, the positioning will be the same, with the pedal pointing to the left as you face the bike, and you push down to rotate the wrench. If you have a freewheel, you can't make a mistake, as the pedals will freely rotate if you position them the wrong way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10672" LastEditorUserId="10672" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T22:43:01.130" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T22:43:01.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T22:35:49.207" Score="0" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;The derailleur was torn apart so I ordered new seat stays and have to exchange (one of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to do it, there are some bearings fastened by screws where hex-wrenches seem to fit on both sides but I am a bit afraid to use brute force and possibly break something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what it looks like:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/photos/Cq8kWhYF8ES3ouBEA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://goo.gl/photos/Cq8kWhYF8ES3ouBEA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shall I just try to unscrew that pulling the hex wrenches into opposite directions or I need some special tools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22859" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T23:21:15.470" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T23:24:05.237" Title="How to exchange a seat stray on a 2013 Cube AMS 150 Super HPC Race carbon bike?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;carbon&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34793" CreationDate="2015-09-30T23:24:05.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I basically did it myself, i needed neither any special tools nor brute force. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22859" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T23:24:05.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T01:09:44.123" Score="3" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Raleigh m20 mountain bike with a messed up crankset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other crankset I have is from a Schwinn Ranger. The two cranksets look like they are the same size. Is it possible to install the other crankset on the Raleigh or will I encounter any problems doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22862" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T19:35:23.213" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T19:35:23.213" Title="Can I replace the crank on a Raleigh m20 with one from a Schwinn Ranger?" Tags="&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;compatibility&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34795" CreationDate="2015-10-01T01:20:57.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they're both the same interface, then it should be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a fair chance they're both square taper, so you'll need a 14mm socket and a puller to get the good crank off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have problems with the chain line, and the front derailleruerueure will need aligning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How did you mess up the crank on the raleigh originally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How's your bottom bracket?  While the crank is off you may as well service it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T01:20:57.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34844" CreationDate="2015-10-01T03:14:44.790" Score="6" ViewCount="2954" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know what technique/s to use to get both the most height, and the most distance from a dirt jump. The stock image below is the kind of dirt jump I'm referring to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MOah.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MOah.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;guy jumping on his bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22576" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T16:14:11.003" Title="How can i get the most air from a jump?" Tags="&lt;technique&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;jumping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34804" CreationDate="2015-10-01T04:51:05.200" Score="6" ViewCount="2333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just moved to a new apartment in a more humid climate, and while fiddling with my bike trainer setup, I've noticed that my gloves and handlebars are soaked with sweat at the end of a ride on the trainer. I know that sweat is corrosive to metal alloys, so what should I be doing to clean off the handlebars (and handlebar tape) and prevent or limit any corrosion damage? Is this something I should even worry about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5850" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T01:12:51.453" Title="How to clean sweat-soaked handlebars/handlebar tape?" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34799" CreationDate="2015-10-01T05:01:15.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope.  Bar tape is cheap enough to replace every couple years, and makes the bike look nice.  Throw your gloves into the wash periodically with your other riding clothes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sweat is slighly salty, but its not going to harm metal in a bike or human's lifespan.  The oils and grease from mechanical parts is more likely to affect paint than sweat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, washing your bike is also good.  If you're unfortunate enough to live somewhere that heavily salts the roads in winter, then that will rust steel and to a lesser extent stainless steel.  A good wash cleans that off and also helps preserve your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T08:29:32.103" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T08:29:32.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34806" CreationDate="2015-10-01T05:36:12.163" Score="11" ViewCount="5664" Body="&lt;p&gt;I live in Chicago, and I ride through the downtown area and other congested streets to and from work every day. Often when I am at a stoplight, I am directly behind or next to several cars belching exhaust. I can't help but smell and inhale it. Sometimes I try to hold my breath, but I can't always hold it for long enough. It smells bad, and I do not wish to inhale carbon monoxide. Is there some great product out there, or maybe just some tips and tricks from other city riders, on how to avoid inhaling exhaust fumes while riding through heavily trafficked urban streets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe my question is similar to or the same as the suggested duplicate about &quot;how to protect yourself from pollution&quot;, however that question has no usable answer (The answer is basically &quot;a gas mask would help, but of course you cant go biking with a gas mask&quot;). I believe my question is not the same as &quot;is pollution a problem&quot; because I am not making/seeking a judgment on pollution, positive, negative, or otherwise, I am just attempting to avoid it/minimize my exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22865" LastEditorUserId="22865" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T07:06:49.627" LastActivityDate="2017-03-04T17:34:09.250" Title="How to avoid/deal with exhaust fumes when riding in traffic" Tags="&lt;health&gt;&lt;bike-vs-car&gt;&lt;pollution&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35076" CreationDate="2015-10-01T08:41:44.263" Score="5" ViewCount="2461" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attempting my second wheel build. My first build went pretty smoothly, but this time I've messed something up badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calculated that both drive and non drive side could take 300mm spokes ( slightly too long on one side, too short the other but both within &amp;lt; 1mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like I mismeasured/ miscalculated something as I have spokes that are both too long and too short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some start to tighten with threads still showing, others protrude from the hole and would only tighten with spoke sticking past the nipple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't understand is how I have spokes on the &lt;strong&gt;same side&lt;/strong&gt; that are both too short and too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd expect to be consistently over or under length on one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I rechecking my calcs I'm not sure if I should expect higher or lower numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z3njh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19542" LastEditorUserId="19542" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T09:25:59.300" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T16:40:43.273" Title="Spokes both too long and too short on same side of wheel" Tags="&lt;wheel-building&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34799" CreationDate="2015-10-01T13:29:57.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The salt from excessive sweating will corrode your headset bolts, bottle cage bolts, can corrode aluminum alloy in handlebars and can affect the paint on your frame. Riding outside on the road is less of an issue because sweat evaporates more easily and the force of the air rushing by keeps the sweat from settling easily. However, on a trainer, everything just runs right down off of you and on the bike and floor below. Sweat can build up on and under the bar tape if you let it. Google corroded handlebars, you'll find plenty of examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the bar tape at least once a season, it will give you time to inspect the bars for any corrosion. It's most likely to happen where there are scratches in the anodized coating. In between rides, you can use a bit of water and tiny touch of dish soap to clean, be sure to rinse well.  Remember, use enough of water. You want to pull out the sweat and not let it build up there. The solution to pollution is dilution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy sweat guards which cover the headset and top tube to protect the other parts of your bike or you could just drape some towels. Additionally, a little lemon pledge furniture polish is a nice touch to keep your frame shiny and moisture resistant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T13:29:57.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T14:11:30.190" Score="3" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a result of asking this question - &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/34751/fracture-in-folding-frame-safe-to-ride/34762&quot;&gt;Fracture in folding frame - safe to ride?&lt;/a&gt; - I've decided to look into getting a new bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in my previous question I cycle quite a lot, but I know next to nothing about bike engineering. So I need a reasonably good bike, but I don't have the knowledge to make a good choice about what the best model might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the bike wholly on relatively short journeys on city streets, so some sort of hybrid commuter/road bike would seem to be ideal. A moment's research demonstrates that every reputable bike company makes one of these, often in a wide array of varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My budget is only about £400 (that's ~$600). Having looked at the options in that range from just two manufacturers, I'm thoroughly confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the obvious (a strong, light frame etc.), I'm looking for a bike that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't have an insane array of gears, and can control gears from the handlebars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can easily mount mudguards and panniers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has easily-changed brake blocks that I can do myself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eagle-eyed users will spot that my existing bike from that question is a folding bike: this is no longer an issue. I don't need a folder any more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to be honest, I don't even know how I can tell from the manufacturers details whether any given model will do what I want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: what should I be looking for when choosing a good bike model? I am not asking for a model recommendation (given that it's opinion-based) - just information on what I need to be looking for/asking about to guide my own choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22836" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.707" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T16:06:05.840" Title="What criteria should I be looking for in selecting a new hybrid bike model?" Tags="&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34802" CreationDate="2015-10-01T15:13:29.173" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theguardian.com/environment/bike-blog/2014/feb/20/air-pollution-cyclists-bike-blog&quot;&gt;The Guardian&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;em&gt;(I suggest you Click through &amp;amp; read the whole article)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;It’s a scenario familiar to any urban cyclist: you’re stuck behind a fume-belching bus or taxi, a choking diesel aroma wafting through your lungs. You think: is this really the healthy option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good, if simple, answer from pollution experts is: yes. Cycling does remain many, many times better for your health than not cycling, even factoring in exposure to pollution and the risk of accident. What’s more surprising is that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;on two wheels you might even be exposed to less of the smelly stuff&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; * than those using other forms of transport.&quot; *(Emphasis added.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read elsewhere (although I can't find the link now) that this lower exposure is due simply to the fact you are up higher than a person in a sedan, and the pollutants tend to sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's not so much that the rider is higher up, but that the cabin air&#xA;  intake of a car is effectively at exhaust pipe level&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Thanks @Chris H)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The science is out the anti-pollution masks, not so much because they are incapable of performing their advertised function, but because exposure levels are much lower for the typical cyclist than most people suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To attempt to address the last crux of your question, it may be reasonable to say that you are already avoiding more exhaust just by biking &amp;amp; not driving, other than that; take a less heavily trafficked route &amp;amp; otherwise don't worry about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect general air quality should be more of a concern than incidental exhaust exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18919" LastEditorUserId="18919" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T16:56:56.530" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T16:56:56.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34805" CreationDate="2015-10-01T15:38:08.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the frame, I suggest a bias towards strength over weight, epsecially if you're adding luggage which puts the weight up.  The other issue for frames is &lt;strong&gt;fit&lt;/strong&gt;, which on a flat-bar bike can be quite forgiving so long as the frame is broadly the right size.  Selecting and setting up the bike is something any bike specialist &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to do, though some are more competent and willing than others (a less-than-ideal experience with Halfords and a road bike a few years back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All modern bikes have gears controlled from the bars, though the actual shifters vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any bike in your price range is likely to have V-brakes.  Changing and adjusting them is something you can learn to do in less than an hour assuming you've never done anything like it before but can use hand tools.  By the third time it will be a 5-10 minute job.  &lt;strong&gt;NB&lt;/strong&gt; you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; find cable disc brakes at that price, but entry level V-brakes seem better than entry-level discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you appear to be interested in it just working rather than maximum speed or ability to handle rough terrain, I strongly suggest anti-puncture tyres.  I ride a similar (marginally more expensive a few years ago) bike so a few ideas:  I wore out a set of Schwalbe Road Cruiser 35s (over ~5000 miles) and liked them, and am now on the tougher, more expensive marathon plus, which I find less grippy, but I've also gone for narrower tyres.  Continental comfort contact are similar to the road cruisers.  Mounting anti puncture tyres can be hard work -- get the bike shop to do it when you buy the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you are you may have access to one or more single-brand bike shops (I could easily get to Giant and Specialized).  They are worth a look even if only for comparison on price/range/service with someone independent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T15:38:08.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34805" CreationDate="2015-10-01T16:06:05.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There a a lot of bikes that will take fenders and a rack. &#xA;Including but not limited to: touring, lite touring, expedition, some cyclocross, city, and hybrid.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would look used for a used bike that will take fenders and a rack. &#xA;May include criteria will take 32 mm tires with fenders.&#xA;Spend like $400 used and have money left over for fenders, rack, and tune up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even new you can get decent bike with with fenders and a rack for $600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T16:06:05.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34802" CreationDate="2015-10-01T16:53:47.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two points to consider.  As explained by @renesis even though you are exposed to pollutants, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0048969701007586&quot;&gt;your overall exposure does not appear to differ significantly from car drivers&lt;/a&gt; (note the study was carried out in Copenhagen, I am not sure automotive how pollution regulations compare to the US).  Because you are also getting exercise, your overall health outcome is likely better than remaining inactive inside a car.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are ways to reduce your exposure.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0048969707009333&quot;&gt;A 2008 study&lt;/a&gt; looked at the exposure by taking differ approaches to commuting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choosing a low exposure route (i.e., longer and more out of the way, but less traveled by automotive traffic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A faster (more direct) but in more dense traffic (shorter exposure period, but higher exposure levels).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking the bus (a positive control - buses tend to take direct routes on busy streets)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They found that accumulated exposure (i.e., total exposure over the course of the trip) was 54%-67% lower on a low exposure route.  The authors also suggest that riding in off-peak hour will further reduce exposure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Strategies&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to reduce pollution is to avoid contact. If you have flexible work hours, you may want to start work earlier.  I find if I come to work one hour earlier (i.e., 7 am start rather than 8 am) the amount of traffic I encounter is almost an order of magnitude less.  Depending on where you live and distances traveled you may want to scour your local maps to find routes that are on green-ways rather than with traffic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion it is all about incremental gains (err... losses).  (Kind of like time trialing, but that is a different topic altogether!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T17:09:14.490" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T17:09:14.490" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34802" CreationDate="2015-10-01T17:26:12.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because anti-pollution masks contribute to overheating (that's my experience), they are an option in colder climates or during winter. Not only it is filtering the air, but is also warming it and your face. Get a double-filter one for less air resistance (theoretically half - parallel air restrictions act just like parallel resistors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point is that the vast majority of exposure to high-density car pollution is while waiting on a traffic light (there was an article about this somewhere). Consequently - try to manoeuvre out of that. If you are riding to the side of the road, you can learn the traffic patterns and when approaching a traffic light to slow down until you expect it to turn green very soon. If you are riding like a car, in the middle of the lane, I suspect you could still manoeuvre your way to the front of the column, where I imagine the pollution buildup would be lesser than in the centre of the column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as my Ecology professor said - don't ride directly behind the bus :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T17:26:12.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16794" CreationDate="2015-10-01T20:48:52.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you tow a trailer with your car?  That would be the safest and most responsible way to move your tandem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second option would be to ride it there, over the course of a day with rest stops you and your co-rider could do 100 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be a roof rack, like others have mentioned.  Your vehicle's roof looks long enough to accept the full length of the bike.  Brands to search for may incluide Thule.  Possibly you're looking for three cross bars, and two normal &quot;bike rails&quot; in line-astern or as close to that as possible.  May have issues with the front bottom bracket  being super low, which means an adapter to raise the front fork a bit more than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please let us know what you end up doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T22:31:17.390" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T22:31:17.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-01T21:21:44.677" Score="4" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 86' Raleigh 10 speed with friction shifters insists on not holding the lowest gear. If I hold it in the low gear, it will stay but the moment I remove my hand, it goes back up. I'm assuming it is a bent derailleur because it theoretically shouldn't resist a gear that much... I have fiddled with all the adjustors, but nothing is changing the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22872" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T18:57:56.490" Title="Friction Shifter Rear Derailleur, Not Holding Low Gear" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38660" CreationDate="2015-10-01T23:02:26.823" Score="2" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 Fox Evolution fork on my bike (bought new by me) that is subject to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ridefox.com/content.php?c=recall&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recall&lt;/a&gt; due to some forks having defective dampers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been riding with a suspension fork since 1996, and I have &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; had a fork that tops out like this one. It tops out with a ridiculous clunk when I pop a curb, it tops out the same way when I ride down a bumpy trail. The rebound control knob has &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; seemed to have any effect on the rate of rebound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping that the damper repair would fix the top out. So I took it to my LBS for the recall damper repair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They called me after 10 days and said, &quot;it's topping out a lot, we think we must have got a defective replacement damper, we'll order another replacement damper.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They called again after another week and said, &quot;Damper is all good, still topping out a lot, we think there is some air that leaked into the negative air chamber, you need to take it to a specialized suspension repair shop for repair.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason to think this is a warranty issue, or should I just cough up the dough for someone to bleed the air out of the negative chamber (which is what the guy said I needed to do)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4522" LastEditorUserId="4522" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T16:12:55.993" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T21:45:14.843" Title="Is this issue possibly related to a defective damper? (Fox Evolution 2013)" Tags="&lt;fork&gt;&lt;suspension&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34819" CreationDate="2015-10-02T00:23:04.720" Score="7" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those of us who try to bite off 50+ mile rides without padded shorts really have to pay attention to our saddle's shape and padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With padded shorts, how much of a difference can you tell between saddles that, when ridden without padded shorts, would mean a large difference in comfort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never had padded shorts, so I'm curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T19:20:24.650" Title="Do saddle ergonomics matter if you've got padded shorts?" Tags="&lt;saddle&gt;&lt;shorts&gt;&lt;comfort&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34815" CreationDate="2015-10-02T00:29:34.010" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like everything... it depends.  If you're doing short distances, pretty much any saddle is fine, with or without padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For longer distances, good shorts may help a saddle's shortcomings, and a good saddle will help make up for no or bad shorts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for the most comfort, a good saddle teamed with well fitting shorts works best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I got the most benefit from tight cycling pants which helped to brace my knees, as well as a big orange coolmax pad, plus a good hard flat saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T00:29:34.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34815" CreationDate="2015-10-02T00:36:06.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saddles are highly personal-- one person likes a particular saddle, but you may not-- but there is a reason most cyclists who ride 50+ miles in one ride do so with shorts or bibs that contain some kind of chamois: it is more comfortable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, does it mean a person can't go long distances without a chamois? Of course not. There are people in the world who can go long distances in their bare feet, too, but most of us wear shoes for various reasons. Clearly there are some saddles which might be more comfortable if you don't wear shorts or bibs with a chamois, and it may even be clear what sort of saddles are more likely to fit the bill (stretched leather over a frame, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://selleanatomica.com/&quot;&gt;Selle Anatomica&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brooksengland.com/&quot;&gt;Brooks&lt;/a&gt;), but I know riders who have found such saddles uncomfortable with a chamois, so your mileage may vary, no pun intended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T00:36:06.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34815" CreationDate="2015-10-02T06:14:41.643" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short (pun intended) answer is &quot;yes.&quot; Or at the very least, &quot;probably yes.&quot; One of the big things that makes saddles uncomfortable is pressure on the soft tissues between your &quot;sit bones&quot; (the ischial tuberosities). It may seem counterintuitive, but padded saddles can make this worse. The problem is that the padding allows your sit bones to sink into the saddle increasing the pressure on your soft tissues. Padded shorts won't do much, if anything, to prevent this and may actually make it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you want is a saddle that supports you sit bones with enough conformance to avoid pressure points around the bones, but without so much give that you end up carrying your weight all across your &quot;bottom.&quot; On a saddle that basically works, but where you find yourself getting sore around your sit bones, padded shorts may help. But a good saddle is a lot like a good hard chair – you can sit on it for hours. You'll get tired of sitting before you it becomes uncomfortable from the pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the benefit of the chamois is in minimizing chafing, not in providing padding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T06:14:41.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34821" CreationDate="2015-10-02T07:46:34.753" Score="11" ViewCount="3887" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find it tedious to spend half a day riding the dangerous streets of the city to purchase a mountain insurance, then spend money on race subscription and in then arriving early as hell on the start line to get my number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided I do not take any water or food from the checkpoints and I do not cross the finish line, is there an ethical reason not to ride with the race?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T15:41:49.707" Title="Is it ethical to ride with races without being part of them?" Tags="&lt;racing&gt;&lt;etiquette&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34820" CreationDate="2015-10-02T08:43:06.377" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unethical, because you're imposing costs on the organisers anyway. Apart from the obvious &quot;if you get hurt they're going to help you&quot;, they almost always face costs per participant and often have a limit on numbers. Violate those limits and the organisers will have problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're also causing wear and tear on the track, equipment and marshals. You can't pretend that away by saying &quot;other people do it too&quot;... yes, and they paid for the privilege. You're stealing it. Not really ethical IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another case where your exact marginal impact is low, but at some point one more increment like that will get the race cancelled or refused permission to do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing is that if you are involved in an incident and are deemed to be at fault, you will not be insured. The race insurance won't cover you (obviously), but whatever insurance you have almost certainly has a an illegal activity exclusion. They'd most likely leave it to you to show that what you were doing was lawful. But since most races take place on temporarily closed areas, that would be hard. They close the area specifically to people like you. For exactly that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T21:04:02.490" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T21:04:02.490" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34820" CreationDate="2015-10-02T09:40:20.670" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’d say it’s totally okay if the road is not closed for the event and still open for cars and other vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T09:40:20.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34820" CreationDate="2015-10-02T12:56:46.527" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's a race with competitors who are trying to win, then I would definitely say no.  Like time travel, just being there at the same place and time can cause unknown effects on future outcome.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to use the track, contact the race organizers and see if they want people to help out checking the track the morning or night before the race for unplanned obstacles or other problems with the route. See if they need referees (not sure if this is the correct term in cycling) to follow the riders to make sure everybody is following the track and not taking short cuts.  Do you have any first aid certifications? Maybe they need on-the-trail first-aid care for riders who get injured. If it's a route without laps, they may even allow people to ride a safe distance (half hour or more) behind the actual competitors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a charity or other type of non-competitive road ride, and the roads are open to cars, then you technically have every right to be there, and although some may frown at it, there isn't really much of a reason not to go, provided you are a courteous rider and don't use any of the facilities furnished to riders.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that any kind of closed course, even on the road, and even for a non-competitive rides is probably off limits.  And &quot;closed course&quot; doesn't mean that the entire thing is behind a barbed wire fence. It would be impractical for them to block off every entrance to a course. A closed course is any course where they have made some effort to try and stop unregistered riders, vehicles, and pedestrians from being on the route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T12:56:46.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-02T13:47:05.910" Score="3" ViewCount="6436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both the (new) tyres I have bought deflate overnight: I have to pump them up again every time I want to ride them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened before I even rode them for the first time, so no punctures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just because I haven't got around to adding sealant yet, or is it a serious problem with the rim/tyre? The wheel is Shimano Ultegra 6800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19321" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:48:54.077" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:48:54.077" Title="Tubeless tyres deflating - serious problem or just because I don't have sealant?" Tags="&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34813" CreationDate="2015-10-02T18:57:56.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may not be a bent derailleur, but a bent derailleur hanger. You can buy the park tool derailleur alignment gauge and bend it back to shape or have a shop do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that I would check the cable tension, disconnect the rear derailleur cable and make sure that the chain stays on the smallest cog to start and then slowly the tension appropriately to make sure it shifts in to all gears properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check to make sure you don't have a loose bolt on your friction shifter that is allowing too much play in the lever, which may let it slide out of the desired position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T18:57:56.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34815" CreationDate="2015-10-02T19:20:24.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like the padding helps a little bit as far as cushioning goes. The bigger benefit for myself seems to be the bib/short material. I generally have a lot less issues with chafing and its a lot easier to slide around on the saddle while wearing lycra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll sometimes ride my SSCX bike to work in normal clothes and I can tell the difference even on a short ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8771" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T19:20:24.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34772" CreationDate="2015-10-02T20:15:02.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;if I buy that bike, will I be able to change to a fork with more travel (e.g. 100 mm), stock has 80 mm. Will that change the geometry of the bike?&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A general rule of thumb when upgrading a suspension fork is to not exceed 20mm greater than the original travel. This will ensure that the geometry of the bike is not noticeably altered. I had a similar bike a few years ago that had 80mm of travel and upgraded it to 100mm with no noticeable differences regarding the geometry of the bike. Having 20mm greater travel on a small travel bike will noticeably improve your ride, especially when riding on light trails. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are able to upgrade your fork to an air fork as well (Brands : RockShox, Fox, Manitou) , you will achieve better small bump sensitivity than you would in a spring driven fork, and resale value would increase greatly. SR Suntour forks are good entry level forks at greater travel lengths (ex. 100mm+) but struggle to provide good cushioning at smaller travel lengths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try to look for a fork that includes a lock out, so you aren't bobbing up and down while pedaling up a hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend riding a folding bike on trails, due to the lack of stability in the frame. Folding bikes are normally used only for road and pavement riding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22886" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T20:15:02.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-02T20:44:03.653" Score="4" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pie plate / dork disk between the cassette and spokes on my bike cracked from age and I had to remove it. I'd like to get a replacement but I can't seem to find any online. Also, do I just need to get one based on the largest cog or is there anything else to consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6141" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T20:56:40.080" Title="Pie plate replacement" Tags="&lt;cassette&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34828" CreationDate="2015-10-02T20:56:40.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A google search of Spoke Protector led to several suppliers. The size is based on largest cog. Most however are spec'd by overall dimension in inches not tooth count. There are two mounting styles I am familiar with. One type snaps onto the hub. There is a  difference between freehub and freewheel mounting. The other variety mounts by snapping onto the spokes. I can imagine that you need one that matches the spoke count of the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T20:56:40.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34820" CreationDate="2015-10-02T22:42:21.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would you ride that exact route on another day, when there was no race on?  I'd say stop being frugal and support cycling in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T22:42:21.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-02T23:26:53.583" Score="3" ViewCount="1281" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I am new to road biking and I got my first flat yesterday. I was going to go for a ride and the front tire was completely flat, so I popped it off and went to patch it. I found the hole, it was on the rim-side, and I noticed that the rim tape had slipped off a little and the spoke hole was slightly exposed, so I pushed the tape back to position, patched the hole, and pumped the tire back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was pumping it up the patch blew out. So I went back and tried to stick another patch on, and it blew out too. I ended up going through about six patches before I got one that 'worked.' I let it sit a couple hours and it was holding pressure just fine. After about 4 hours I was going to go for a bike ride and it was completely flat again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the tube off again and there was a wrinkle that formed in the patch where the air is coming out. I checked the rim tape and it was fine, none of the spoke hole where sticking out. My current theory is that the tube is conforming to the shape of the rim on the inside, right where the patch is, and forcing the patch to wrinkle and inevitably blow out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am completely at a loss as to what to do here. I've patched tires on my mountain bikes many times and have never had this much trouble. I don't want to get a new tube, I have only like 60 miles on this tube. Should I just try slapping another patch over this patch's wrinkle and hope for the best or should I just start from scratch with a new tube and rim tape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22891" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T12:44:09.963" Title="Unpatchable hole on rim side" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;rim-tape&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35515" CreationDate="2015-10-03T00:34:24.750" Score="7" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just put together a brand new single speed fixie style bike.  There is a skipping or catch motion when the bike is upside down (on the seat and handle bars) and I'm pedalling the crank and then stop and let the back tire spin (free wheel motion).  I'm guessing that in that position once I stop spinning the pedals connected to the crank arm should just be still while the back tire is spinning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is happening is that the crank arm/pedal acts like it catches on something and moves and then stops and then catches again, moves and then stops when the back bike tire is spinning.  It doesn't seem normal, especially because it's a new bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I only took around the block to test drive and it seems when I stop pedalling it hold my feet on the pedals in a 3 o'clock / 9 o'clock position there is a clicking or catching sound happening there as well. When pedalling the bike feels normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a short 8 second video of the skipping when the bike is upside down on the seat and handle bars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/1h7jJjd-ED4?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think may be the issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22889" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T12:13:38.917" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T07:05:43.527" Title="Brand new single speed bike has a skip in the free wheel motion or make a click noise once every rotation of the tire" Tags="&lt;single-speed&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34833" CreationDate="2015-10-03T02:26:57.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I dont like the throw away and not repair philosophy these days, I would say that 6 patches are more expensive than a new tube. Mine, at 1.50 euro the piece, are not best quality but have been enough for thousands of kilometers. As for patching, I believe that if you patch properly no spoke should move the patch. In any case,the hole should not be unpatchable unless very big. &#xA;And what about flipping the tube to avoid contact of the spoke and patch, or is it just in the opposite side of the valve? &#xA;Lastly, I 've found that when patching, leaving the paste solution to dry for some 20 seconds longer than the typical recommended minute helps the patch stick and not move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T02:26:57.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34840" CreationDate="2015-10-03T02:28:33.973" Score="5" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyclingtips.com.au/2015/10/the-unwritten-rules-for-calling-a-ride/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;unwritten rules for calling a ride&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and #4 mentions something about &quot;unreasonably short leave-passes&quot;. What does that mean? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22894" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T00:16:49.360" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T00:16:49.360" Title="What is an &quot;unreasonably short leave-pass&quot;?" Tags="&lt;exercise&gt;&lt;group-rides&gt;&lt;organized-rides&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34841" CreationDate="2015-10-03T03:25:32.547" Score="3" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I said, I have a 1972 Centurion. Today while riding I hit a pothole as I was coming down on my left pedal. I immediately felt like my pedal was moving around in ways it shouldn't. Stopping to look, I'd cracked the actual axle that the crank arms attach to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for information on where I can buy a replacement part for this, how much it will cost, as well as how to carry out the replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the actual crack: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/gYpYxMW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;cracked axel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the pedal looking all bent: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.imgur.com/KGaTQ2Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;bent pedal&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22895" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-10-03T11:55:06.303" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T04:18:07.100" Title="Crank axle cracked on 1972 Centurion, looking for guidance on how to replace" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;crack&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34626" CreationDate="2015-10-03T07:22:11.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The derailleur and cassette are compatible; in the sense that they will work together when they are installed on your bike, and the derailleurs are adjusted correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shimano states them to be incompatible, but this is not to say they would not &lt;em&gt;function&lt;/em&gt;; rather they would not function as Shimano intended them to. This is because Shimano designs their drivetrains as a set, rather than individual components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the 7900 cassette and 7800 derailleur with 53-39 chainrings, it should function , based on details that are not part of the derailleur design. Such as &lt;strong&gt;if you know how to shift through your gears correctly&lt;/strong&gt;. If you shift into the largest chainring, and then onto the 28t rear cog, there is a &lt;em&gt;chance&lt;/em&gt; that the drivetrain could bind. This is based on things like chain length, chainstay length, rear dropout design, and how far the B-tension screw is turned in on the derailleur. Since Shimano can't control these aspects of your riding experience, they simply state that the two components are not compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My professional recommendation to a customer who wanted to use the 11-28 cassette, but didn't want to buy a new derailleur would be this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Install the cassette and derailleur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Measure your chain to the correct length (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing#article-section-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;using Park Tool's 3rd method&lt;/a&gt;), but &lt;strong&gt;do not cut the chain yet&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add an additional link (outer/inner) to the total chain length.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the chain, install, and check the shifting function.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjust the B-tension screw in on the derailleur so that the chain and upper jockey wheel on the derailleur do not grind against the largest rear cog.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for some reason you can't adjust the drivetrain noise out, then forget it. Any of the above factors may make it impossible. It's unusual, but it does sometimes happen. If there is excessive slack in the chain in the small ring/small cog combination, it's also probably not a great idea. However, I would not worry a great deal; Shimano SS cages have never been &lt;em&gt;compatible&lt;/em&gt; with 28t cogs, but tons of people run them all the time. It's for legal protection that Shimano states this. What you really need to run an SS cage and a 28t cassette is mechanical know how (or a good shop mechanic!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22563" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T07:22:11.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34778" CreationDate="2015-10-03T07:30:56.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they are compatible. As long as you are using a 160mm caliper mount, and a 160m rotor they will work together. There are industry-wide standards for rotor position for front and rear brakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like @Carel says above though: make sure your pads are a type that are correct for the rotor (this shouldn't be a problem with HRD rotors, you can use metallic or organic pads on them) and also compatible for the type of riding you are doing. For example, if you are doing tons of downhill with organic pads, you'll wear through them really quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22563" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T07:30:56.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34836" CreationDate="2015-10-03T10:00:11.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your family or significant other will only give you a few hours &lt;em&gt;leave&lt;/em&gt;(like Annual leave) from home to go out riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22898" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T10:00:11.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34837" CreationDate="2015-10-03T10:09:23.153" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crack is in the bottom bracket(BB) axle. This will at least need to be replaced. If the crank arm(silver part) is not damaged this can be reused. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many types of bottom bracket standards but it is most likely this frame has a 68mm English thread square taper bottom bracket which are the most common in pre year 2000 bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/shimano-un26-square-taper-bottom-bracket/rp-prod34652?gs=1&amp;amp;gclid=Cj0KEQjw-b2wBRDcrKerwe-S5c4BEiQABprW-EhcGmSwo4a6Ir7oQT3_TbS-svCEQbQnsl4RvPfx4pQaAhDn8P8HAQ&amp;amp;gclsrc=aw.ds&quot;&gt;Shimano UN26&lt;/a&gt;. Any bike shop should be able to supply and fit a new bottom(price in my local area would be $30-50 supply+fit). You do need specific tools to remove and fit bottom brackets so unless you plan on investing in some tools I suggest get a shop to replace it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22898" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T10:09:23.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34833" CreationDate="2015-10-03T11:16:01.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always swap out the tube and do my patching at home when I'm out of spare tubes (stock up if you see them on offer). This is partly to stop the glue going off in the tube, but it means that when I do patch it's easy to do it perfectly and not rush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recipe: The tube is dry and slightly roughened, plenty of glue, let it go tacky (if I'm rushing I can never get a patch to take), then patch. Just enough air to get the tube to take shape and a bit more glue smeared round the edge. Then leave the tube while you do something else. It will need some chalk when you come back to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never got on with glueless patches though some people here love them. It always seems impossible to get the backing off in one go, unless it's falling off when the patch doesn't stick to the tube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I've had trouble with wrinkles forming is if I've patched over the seam in the tube. Extra glue helps then,but it takes ages with no pressure to dry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T11:16:01.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34833" CreationDate="2015-10-03T14:06:08.617" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why this question needed four paragraphs to explain, but I'll indulge it. However, I want to point out that the most effective decision is whatever results in a reliable tube using the least amount of time, money, and effort to accomplish. That should be obvious and not need to be pointed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I would personally buy a new tube and rim tape. I might even buy a new tire while I'm at it. If a tube keeps going flat, there are only two or three possible explanations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The patch isn't taking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rim or something in the tire (e.g. small, short piece of metal)&#xA;keeps puncturing the tube&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tire is worn through/weak in a specific area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a certain level of convenience in patching a tube. If you're having to patch the same spot on a tube multiple times or keep getting multiple flats on the same tube in a day, or even a week, is it really worth your time to diagnose when you can spend ~$5 on a new tube and rule possibility out (unless you're extremely unlucky and get a defective tube, which has happened to me once)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel it is really worth your time, you can rule out the first potential cause by pumping up the patched tube outside of the tire, and putting it in a tub full of water. Watch for air bubbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try ruling out the second by running your finger through the rim and through the inside of the tire, but BE CAREFUL! You can slice your finger open if there's something sharp and big enough poking through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter is something you can only determine through visual inspection. I know one of the most confounding flats I've ever had was caused by a small cut in the tire, big enough for the inflated tube to poke out of, embolize, and eventually blow out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22900" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T14:06:08.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34798" CreationDate="2015-10-03T16:58:21.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding the picture: in the comment I said the rider isn't going high because of not trying hard enough, but on second thought the main reason for not being able to get proper air from such jump is that the lip is not steep enough; in fact the entire transition of that jump is rather mellow and not suited for height, you'd almost have to bunny hop out of it to go higher. The second jump on the pic seems better in that regard though it is hard to tell. For reference, something like this will launch you in the air no matter what: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wUnI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wUnI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(sidenote: it takes a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of practice to be able to build jumps like that, almost as much as it takes practice to be able to ride them:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the optimium between height and length can probably mathematically be derived but I don't know how. I do know in the end it is irrelevant: once you practiced enough sometimes you'll just want to flow through lines without going particularily high while other times you'll try to really boost it. Another thing to realize is that pure distance at itself is almost never the aim: you'll rather want the perfect distance to nicely clear the jump. And not much further than that or you'll land too deep into the transition of the landing which makes it hard to maintain speed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the actual answer (finally): as said I cannot explain it very well, but to go heigh (on jumps as pictured above) you basically push the bike against the transition, somewhere in the center so well before the lip, using mainly (at least for me) legs and arms. Doing that pushes the bike somewhat in more in front of you and forces it to follow the an upwards direction of the jump, and your body follows that. I don't think there is any pulling up on the handle bars until you are airborne. On the contrary, pushing the bike into the transition means extending limbs. This is a pretty good illustration you can also check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/flow-like-a-pro-learn-to-dirt-jump-with-mike-smith-24072/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rest of the explanation there&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rosb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7rosb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final note: I rode/ride quite some dirt and met many people and when talking about it is usually in rather vague terms like 'push the bike' etc. It is just hard to break down all steps because they happen so fast and as a consequence it is hard to explain it to others. Best thing you can do is watch fellow riders or watch films, eventually in slow motion to see what exactly happens. But even if you do that you'll need practice, practice and then some more practice and one day you'll realize you suddenly know how to do it. If you can then explain exactly why, please report back here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9016" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T16:58:21.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34820" CreationDate="2015-10-03T17:04:04.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I contemplated the topic, visited a local XC/Enduro* race, asked the guys that organise it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Are riders without subscription and numbers hindering the race, they are not one or two but about 20%?&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &quot;No. Why would they?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My conclusion is that &lt;strong&gt;any cyclist without registration is no different than any other bystander&lt;/strong&gt;. Consequently, if the race organisers have taken strain to restrict outside personnel**, then &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/34821/3927&quot;&gt;Mσᶎ's answer&lt;/a&gt; applies with full strength. On the other hand, if travel is allowed, cycling is no more immoral than walking on the race course. However:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;taking food or water constitutes theft, just as if a random hiker helped himself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(optional) as unnumbered riders are not in a hurry for anywhere, they must help any racer in need. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;as &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/34831/3927&quot;&gt;Criggie explains&lt;/a&gt; not subscribing for insurance and for the race does not help the race to be held the next year or the medical crews to be funded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are supposed to be objective arguments, on the basis of which each individual can decide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* - 100m positive attitude gain, 1700m negative attitude gain, mix of loose gravel road and singletrack of moist sharp stones; hikers, children, dogs, automobiles everywhere&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;** - for example, I would consider a large warning sign a suitable restriction for hikers, or a police car a suitable restriction to automobiles&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T17:27:10.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34836" CreationDate="2015-10-03T17:04:26.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having such a limited amount of time for a group ride that in order to finish it on time you would need to push group speed up to a point where the ride is not enjoyable or even feasible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18463" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T17:04:26.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-03T17:37:46.030" Score="17" ViewCount="7288" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most mid to high level mountain groupsets (eg SLX and X7) have shifter options without any display as to what gear is currently active. How do riders avoid cross-chaining and other unpleasantnesses, especially when riding in the dark or on rough terrain (i.e. when they can't readily take a look at the rear cogs)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pVgX9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pVgX9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3927" LastEditorUserId="3927" LastEditDate="2015-10-03T17:46:37.617" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T19:02:00.893" Title="How do experienced cyclists know which gear they are in without an optical display?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34847" CreationDate="2015-10-03T18:25:12.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me noise is a good indicator of “bad” gears with cross chaining. I also know from the speed when I have to change chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T18:25:12.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34847" CreationDate="2015-10-03T18:32:25.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of the time I don't…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of my riding is on an older touring bike with downtube shifters or a tandem with mountain bike type (the two button/lever kind) shifters. So I know generally what gear the bike is in by effort and like Michael says detect cross-chaining by sound. With the touring bike shifter position tells me a lot about what gear I'm in and I can read it by feel. On the tandem I can tell the extremes by the shifter behavior (it either won't let you pull cable or won't release anymore).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have a pretty relaxed attitude towards cross-chaining. I know it is &quot;bad&quot; and try to avoid it, but I also don't worry too much about occasionally picking the &quot;wrong&quot; gear combinations. I usually notice them due to noise or feel and when I do I shift if I can. If I can't a put a bit of money into the bike parts jar when I get home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T18:32:25.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34847" CreationDate="2015-10-03T19:49:00.133" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my bikes has no indicators and I'm less familiar with it than my other bike which has indicators and more years especially at the top. But I don't find it to be a problem. You don't need to know &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; which gear you're in, just enough to know (e.g) that if you want to drop a gear you need to drop a chainring. &#xA;A combination of feel and a vague recollection of what I've done is normally enough for that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T19:49:00.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34847" CreationDate="2015-10-03T20:13:02.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Experienced riders pick the right chainring based on the terrain coming up.  Then all they need to know is to go up or down on the cassette as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've topped or bottomed-out then that section is over, time to pick a new chainring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T20:13:02.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34837" CreationDate="2015-10-03T20:36:51.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not ride that bike, as pictured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to fix it?  I shattered a cup on my old MTB.  The fix was to take the bottom axle into a bike shop and they couldn't supply the right part, so I bought a sealed cartridge instead.  It went in easily, needs no bearing tweaking, is waterproof and brilliant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only downside is you'll need these tools:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;14 mm socket to remove crank bolts/nuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank remover to get the cranks off  (do both sides now)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sliding lock pliers to remove the lock ring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Big spanner to remove the cups&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleaning products and rags to clean the hole and threads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A drive socket that suits your new bottom bracket cartridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are handy, buy the tools and be set for life.  Otherwise get the LBS to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mid-range shimano one cost me $50 NZ and has been one of the best upgrades to my old bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW you ride a bike thats older than me - that's impressive.  Thank you for not contributing to the throw-away society.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T20:36:51.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34847" CreationDate="2015-10-03T21:06:12.697" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cadence mostly. The answer to your question is in the title. Experience. &#xA;Same way motocross riders know what gear they are in. The speed of the engine vs how fast they are moving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22906" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T21:06:12.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34847" CreationDate="2015-10-03T21:23:21.780" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the elite riders I have encountered just &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt;. I think its part of the attention to detail necessary at that level. You almost never see them looking down to check (that would be showing a weakness and giving oponents an opportunity). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you mean &lt;em&gt;can the rider say which cog they are using at the front and rear?&lt;/em&gt; then the answer is that often we can't say. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually we know by memory which front cog we are using. And as I change the rear gear, I know by the different feel of the ratio whether I'm near the top, the middle, or the bottom of the cluster. I &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; rarely try to change gears past the last one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bike knows. That's enough. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T21:23:21.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34856" CreationDate="2015-10-03T22:45:10.457" Score="4" ViewCount="1567" Body="&lt;p&gt;My flagship BSO has a threaded headset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently discovered, to my surprise, that when I twisted the handlebars hard while restraining the wheel, I could move the stem. It isn't nearly loose enough to move while I'm riding, so I guess it's not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top bolt was tightened as hard as I could get it with one of those little bike tool hex sets (lever arm about 3.5 inches long).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are all threaded headsets like this, or is mine wonky?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T06:29:33.620" Title="How much torque should a threaded headset resist?" Tags="&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34855" CreationDate="2015-10-03T22:48:40.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that the large threaded locknut and top race on the threaded part of the headset has nothing to do with the connection with the handlebar, which uses a stem quill into the steerer tube (See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon's site&lt;/a&gt; for details).  You tighten up the top race/locknut only if you feel &quot;looseness&quot; between the handlebars/fork and the frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LiTbf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LiTbf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of a headset with labels&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can move your handlebars separately from your fork, you have to tighten up your stem quill  more using that little hex bolt. Sheldon again has a wonderful &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_w.html#wedgebolt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;diagram of the wedge bolt&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7vXm.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7vXm.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Sheldon&amp;#39;s picture of a stem&amp;#39;s wedge bolt&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An allen key may not be giving you enough torque -- you may want to use a hex bit on a socket wrench or torque wrench. You'd have to give us the specs on the hex bolt for us to look up the appropriate amount of torque -- but it's certainly more than you could get with an allen key. But be careful of using a socket wrench as that may give you so much torque that you snap the bolt or split the steerer tube -- the use of a torque wrench is strongly recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sometimes helps if you can take the quill stem out, use alcohol to remove any residual oil off of the wedge. You can also rough up the outside of wedge a bit with a file.  Some people also use coarse grit (lapping compound) or carbon-fiber assembly paste to increase the friction and reduce &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;galling&lt;/a&gt; risk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to grease the hole at the top of the stem quill where the wedge bolt enters as well as the surfaces between the quill and the wedge to reduce friction. If the bolt has a habit of loosening itself, you could use blue Loctite on the bolt threads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the main problem is that with BSOs, the tolerances are so poor that something is either too tight and galled into place, or so sloppy that no end of tightening will get you solid tight without breaking something else. And sometimes the drones at the factory do something truly idiotic like put a 25.4mm stem into a 26.00 steerer tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastEditorUserId="11160" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T06:29:33.620" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T06:29:33.620" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34855" CreationDate="2015-10-03T23:21:54.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that &quot;real bikes,&quot; and maybe some BSOs too, can have a butted steering tube – one where the wall thickness at the bottom of the tube is greater than it is further up the tube. This means that if the stem is inserted to far into the steering tube the area for the stem binder to grip will be limited and it will be very difficult to get the stem to grep solidly in the steering tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T23:21:54.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-04T01:56:58.483" Score="-7" ViewCount="727" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cyclists I encounter are polite. But the ones wearing lycra are almost always douchebags. They shout things like &quot;hey stop walking in the bike lane&quot; and &quot;use your damn turn signal!&quot; when I'm just minding my own business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some materials like plastics are toxic and toxins can leech in through the skin. Is there something in lycra that damages cyclists' brains that causes them to be douchebags? I'm thinking of starting a campaign to ban lycra and I want to know if it's really the cause of all this douchery or if it just correlates with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22910" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T04:09:04.680" Title="does lycra turn cyclists into douchebags?" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-10-04T19:58:16.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34899" CreationDate="2015-10-04T04:02:52.983" Score="1" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't do a lot of MTB tracks, but there's a team event coming up soon and I'm doing some flat single-track to prepare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After two 15 km laps I have a blister on my left butt-cheek, right at the top of the leg.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally wear tight cycling pants with a pad made from coolmax (the orange stuff) with normal pants over the top. That is normally okay for road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions: Is there a difference between padded pants for MTB vs road cycling?   Why else would I be getting blisters when the same clothes on the road are fine for 80+ KM trips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm using look road clips and road shoes, mostly because I already have them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its a 21&quot; hard frame - no front or rear suspension.  I suppose you'd call it a hybrid or commuter frame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saddle is a relatively thinly-padded Giant brand that is mounted flat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, I'll not post a picture of my injury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T11:06:06.760" Title="Why did my last trip give me a bum blister?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;clothes&gt;&lt;injury&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34858" CreationDate="2015-10-04T04:03:38.507" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  People with questionable social skills likely were that way long before they put Lycra on. I personally  wear Lycra while commuting because I ride long distances (~50km day) and I have been doing so for 20 years.  I just phoned three long-time friends and all have confirmed that I have yet to turn into a &quot;douchbag.&quot; (I would like to point out that this is a horribly sexist term - if we want to instead objectify male genitalia as an insult consider the Red Dwarf classic &quot;smeg head&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are two main components to your observation/complaint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In-group vs out-group dynamics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type A personalities &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with (1),  psychology studies have shown that we tend to classify people we don't identify with as &quot;other&quot; and treat them differently (usually worse) and view the other as this cohesive group (which they are not).  Where we may give an in-group a &quot;pass&quot; on bad behavior, we would not do the same for the out-group. Many do not identify with cyclists nor  Lycra -  combing the two makes an out-out group.  Some of your comments and perspectives reflect this mentality.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to point (2).  Lycra is clothing designed for performance, not fashion. Most wearing it are performance minded.  A high proportion of performance minded individuals will be the classic type A personality.  Many type A personalities tend to speak their mind directly and have little interest in playing more of an ambassador role.  I am sure this has also contributed to your perception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: As an aside, bike lanes purposed  for cycling, just as sidewalks are purposed for walking and not cycling.  All vehicles (motorized or self-propelled) are required to use turn signals. Finally, I will add links to the in-group/out-group research when I am back on my computer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-10-04T04:09:04.680" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T04:09:04.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34837" CreationDate="2015-10-04T04:18:07.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're replacing the BB yourself, just make sure you get the right one. You need to consider the following variables: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;General type (we already know it's a square taper, so no problem there).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The width of the shell (the painted part) - that's easy enough to measure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The length of the spindle (axle) - you'll have to remove the cranks to get an accurate measurement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thread type. Centurion was an American company, so it's probably English threading, but I can't guarantee that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T04:18:07.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23676" CreationDate="2015-10-04T04:53:13.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just bought some Look Keo Easy pedals.  They have no tension adjust at all, and are locked at the easiest tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem I've found is that they don't hang right, so will be giving their bearings a lube and service after less than 100 km.  Could be they're just a bit too stiff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why road cleats on a MTB?  They were cheap and I already had a pair of road shoes.  Testing an idea is always good before committing silly amounts of money to something that may be unnecessary, or worse detrimental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T04:53:13.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10522" CreationDate="2015-10-04T05:31:35.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;New answer to an old question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't say how much power your ebike will provide.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've recently sold my 500 watt motor and batteries, because the speed alone was dangerous and put me in bad situations.  I was achieving peak speeds of 46 km/h and regularly travelling at 40 km/h with pedalling on the flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that drivers glance and see a bike some distance away, then start their manoeuvre, and suddenly I'm right on top of them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to ride much more defensively and be proactive in avoiding problems. I learned to never bike in the door-zone, and to look well ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also maintain the death stare at any driver who looks like they are about to do something wrong, like turning across your path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So armour and helmets and pads come into play once everything has gone wrong.  Their prime goal is to minimise damage.  Your aim is to avoid the damage happening in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So do wear a helmet, and have plenty of lights, and high-visibility vest and gloves, but remember that's your second line on defense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally this question was asked three years ago.  What did you actually do, how did it work for you, and what have you done differently since then?   Follow-ups of your experiences help other users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T02:36:20.107" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T02:36:20.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34724" CreationDate="2015-10-04T08:15:33.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may be a broken brake shoe, or possibly a broken clutch spring. This usually happens when the axle nuts are not tightened to the correct torque (30Nm), or the wheel is put back on without the non-turn washer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take it into a shop that has a Shimano dealer account. If you want to fix it yourself, they can order you the entire internal assembly (it comes in one pre-assembled piece, part #1 on &lt;a href=&quot;http://si.shimano.com/php/download.php?file=pdf/ev/EV-SG-3C41-2330B.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this diagram&lt;/a&gt;). Make sure you emasure the length of the old axle, and order the same sized new one. With some minimal work (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKBirqWxmi8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;), you can remove the old assembly, pop in the new one, and get your girlfriend back to riding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: The above video shows how to remove the coaster brake shoes. You are not trying to do that! Simply replace the entire unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd rather not do the work yourself, a shop shouldn't charge too much for it, and the work will be warrantied as well. They can also check the hub for any other damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22563" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T08:15:33.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32430" CreationDate="2015-10-04T08:21:06.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will not work at all. Use an 11-speed chain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use the 10spd chain, there is a good chance that it can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jam in the rear derailleur jockey wheels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the friction on the cassette, which will:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase wear on the chain's side plates, dramatically increasing the chances that the chain will break right in the middle of you hammering up a hill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will also shift quite poorly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22563" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T08:21:06.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34847" CreationDate="2015-10-04T10:02:55.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With todays 2- and 1-chainring cranksets, chain-crossing isn't a problem and with the cranksets where it may be a problem (which are rather rare in high-end groups) the sound and feel are good signs of it. So you don't really need to know which gear you're in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when you spend a lot of time on your bike you just start to recognise the gears by feel and are able to tell which one you're in... well, +/-1 let's say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I switched from Shimano Deore (with displays) to Sram X9 (without displays) some 5 years ago, and never felt the need to look down and check the gears. So they are not this important, just a matter of changing habbits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14321" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T10:02:55.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-04T18:36:47.933" Score="7" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just stripped the threads on my mech hanger and I'm in the process of buying a new one. There are so many different types, even for one manufacturer, I was wondering what the reason for this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand why different manufacturers might use different designs but why should one manufacturer have so many slightly different products that all do essentially the same thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22921" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T01:33:59.257" Title="Why are there so many types of mech hanger?" Tags="&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;hanger&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34875" CreationDate="2015-10-04T19:22:33.520" Score="13" ViewCount="8902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a very nice cyclocross bike that I use for daily commuting. It is currently fitted with relatively wide cyclocross tires (Continental Cyclocross Race 35-622) that I inflate to 4 bar (58 psi).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since those tires are nearing the end of their lives and because I'm mostly riding on paved roads, I'm considering to switch to road tires (e.g. Continental Grand Prix 4000S II 28-622). However, I now noticed that my rims (DT Swiss XR 400) have a sticker saying &quot;maximum tire pressure 4 bar&quot; next to a pictogram showing a rim apparently broken at the weld. That pressure is of course hardly enough for any narrow road tires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is now how seriously I should take this limit. I have a hard time imagining how too high pressure would break the rim and how exactly it would fail. Sheldon Brown mentions on his &lt;a href=&quot;http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; that maximum pressure ratings are often rather arbitrary and he encourages experimenting, but he's talking about tires there, not rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am willing to risk voiding the warranty on my rims or causing premature wear. But I would like to avoid the risk of catastrophic failure in the middle of traffic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p3jEp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p3jEp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13929" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T23:15:14.780" LastActivityDate="2019-08-12T13:30:12.177" Title="How seriously should I take the maximum pressure rating of my cyclocross rims?" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;cyclocross&gt;&lt;tire-pressure&gt;" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34870" CreationDate="2015-10-04T19:51:54.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a rather disappointing pressure rating...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this increasingly litigious world of psycho-lawyers, one can't be too careful. I'll bet they can handle 8 bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to run your tires at 6 bar (for example), inflate one of them to 8 bar and let it sit for a day. See what happens. If it doesn't blow out then you're definitely safe at 6 bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T19:51:54.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34870" CreationDate="2015-10-05T01:21:23.180" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest contacting the manufacturer. They should be able to provide you with a chart indicating the maximum allowed tire pressure for different sized tires on your rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting wheels designed for situations in which you typically run low pressures (cyclocross, cross country MTB) do not need sidewalls as strong as wheels designed for rim brakes. This allows manufacturers to produce rims that are slightly lower in weight with the tradeoff being a lower maximum allowable pressure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your wheels obviously are not super lightweight race wheels but a few years ago people were blowing out the sidewalls of their rims when &lt;a href=&quot;http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/09/mtb/tech-faq-rims-and-pressure-to-fail_251692&quot;&gt;seating tubeless tires&lt;/a&gt; on such wheels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6007" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T01:50:46.430" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T01:50:46.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34923" CreationDate="2015-10-05T10:35:10.547" Score="2" ViewCount="750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to by these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decathlon.in/cycling/cyclist-wear/footwear/cycling-shoes-500/p-M8243683&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cycling shoes&lt;/a&gt; which claims &lt;code&gt;&quot;Restriction of use:Only compatible with Delta Pedals and Cleats&quot;&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading up about Delta and Keo I understand that Keo pedals and Delta cleats are not compatible and vice versa. However, I could not find if the Keo cleats can be fit on these shoes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess my question is, if I buy these shoes and Keo pedals+cleats, can I fit the 3-hole Keo cleats on to the 3-holes in the shoes? In other words, are the dimensions and size of the 3-holes same in Keo and Delta?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope I make sense. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22930" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T08:29:51.000" Title="Delta compatible shoes and KEO pedals" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;shoes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34870" CreationDate="2015-10-05T10:54:35.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clearly the safest route is to follow the label.  It is a rim designed for lower pressure.  Why not go with a road tire that will run at lower pressure?  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://bike.michelinman.com/tires/michelin-protek-urban#dim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MICHELIN Protek Urban&lt;/a&gt; 700x35C runs just fine at 4 bar.  I run an older version of that tire on my CX used as a commuter and it is a nice ride at 4 bar.  I like wide tires on a commuter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said mostly paved roads.  The other option is another set of wheels with road tires and use the current wheels for off road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The force on rim is pressure plus size so it should take more pressure on a smaller tire.  It is odd that that they just list pressure but that is common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T11:07:42.990" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T11:07:42.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34870" CreationDate="2015-10-05T12:25:40.147" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason that rims have maximum tire pressures is because the tire presses out at the bead seat. This load is carried by the &quot;bend&quot; in the 'U' shape of the rim. Higher pressures put more stress on the rim and, given enough pressure, will cause it to fail either at the bend or perhaps through the spoke holes if that is the weak point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With rims designed for disc brakes, there is no need to build in extra material for wear from the calipers. This means the rims can be lighter and potentially more fragile. Since the manufacture thinks they can control the inflation pressure (or at the very least tell you about the limits on the pressure) they might choose to trade weight that goes into resisting inflation pressures for weight that handles riding stresses – assuming they are different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen one fail (due to lack of experience, not because failures are unlikely, I'm not qualified to make that statement), but I imagine it could be rather messy. I think what would happen is that the sidewall of the rim would start to separate from the rest of the rim. The tube would help hold pressure for a while, but eventually the tire would unseat and that could lead to a rather nasty crash – especially if it happened on the front wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The photo below looks like what I imagine could happen (and is &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/mavic-xm719-rim-failure-401993.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;described as an over pressure failure&lt;/a&gt; by some of the commenters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tERKk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tERKk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Failed disc brake rim - perhaps from overpressure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T12:40:45.793" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T12:40:45.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-05T13:21:35.353" Score="-2" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking for a commuting jacket for a few months and haven't found anything suitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any &lt;strong&gt;casual-looking jackets&lt;/strong&gt; with the following features for autumn/winter commuting in a city like London?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mandatory requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not look like a cycling or sports jacket, but completely casual&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Windproof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Water-resistant (at least) shell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zip-up (or buttons) up to the neck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adjustable at the waist (so that wind doesn't come in)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Venting/holes at the armpits and/or other strategic locations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some reflectors on the back (don't have to be big)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waterproof hood with adjusters to make it tight around the head so you can look back while cycling (e.g. like on the Patagonia Torrentshell jacket)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried the following jackets and found them unsuitable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2B9sx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2B9sx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Levi&amp;#39;s jacket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Levi's Commuter Trucker Jacket:&lt;/strong&gt; this seemed like a perfect balance of the above requirements, but was extremely loose around the waist — with no option to tighten. On a size down, it was so tight around my chest that the buttons would pop open when moving my arms. Has potential, but not designed with enough function in mind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rjhv6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rjhv6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vulpine jacket&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vulpine Harrington Rain Jacket:&lt;/strong&gt; this also seemed great but was not tight enough around the waist to prevent cold air from coming in (in several sizes). The special cut-out cuffs were more of an inconvenience when walking (too long, covering my hands) than a benefit. The pocket on the back is also too visible, taking away from the casual look. This jacket also had potential, but needs changes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T19:03:36.560" Title="Casual, stylish jacket for cycling?" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;accessories&gt;&lt;rain&gt;&lt;wind&gt;&lt;jacket&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-10-05T20:24:51.410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34869" CreationDate="2015-10-05T16:06:23.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some designs are patented, therefore cannot be shared among different manufacturers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the catalog of a single manufacturer I don't know, maybe a mix of keeping compatibility with previous models but also pushing people to &quot;upgrade&quot; and buy more expensive parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22503" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T16:06:23.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34880" CreationDate="2015-10-05T17:19:33.543" Score="5" ViewCount="907" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I described in &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/34487/&quot;&gt;my previous question&lt;/a&gt;, I attempted a gradual conversion from a dérailleur to a Shimano Nexus 3 gear hub. I have installed the hub, keeping the dérailleur's pulley for now, with intention to remove it completely when I buy a new chain (this one is worn out anyway). However, I noticed when installed the wheel, the washer doesn't match my dropout, but I'm uncertain which one should I buy instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I have it now:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w7mhY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w7mhY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dropouts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22623" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T18:25:01.250" Title="Shimano Nexus 3 — what anti-rotation washer to use?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;internally-geared-hub&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;dropouts&gt;&lt;nexus&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2111" CreationDate="2015-10-05T17:58:50.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a new product in the market which was just launched from &lt;a href=&quot;http://vertixglobal.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VERTIX&lt;/a&gt;.  This is a wireless system specially designed for cyclists and comes with a remote control on your handlebar. &#xA;The range is 500m between 2 riders and you can have up to 4 riders in a group with a range between the first and last rider of up to 1.5km! battery life is 10hrs. There is wind noise filtering and also an anti-panting feature - your friends cannot hear your panting but only when you talk! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22933" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T20:36:12.677" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T20:36:12.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34878" CreationDate="2015-10-05T18:25:01.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your photo, it looks like you're fine. The load from the hub is being taken on the anti-rotation arm that you've attached to the lateral tubes of your mixte. So the anti-rotation washer (I'm presuming you're talking about the orange washer) is not being loaded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as described in the responses to your previous question, your dropout is just horizontal enough that you can get about 1-2 cm of movement - enough to tension your chain if you can shorten it, so that you don't need a derailleur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T18:25:01.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34847" CreationDate="2015-10-05T18:51:05.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I consider myself decently experienced, having ridden for many years, and my answer is that I don't have to know. The numbers aren't important to me; it's all in how it feels. Whatever speed I'm going, if I want to go faster and I'm pedaling without feeling like I'm doing any work, I need to shift into a higher gear. If I feel like I'm expending too much energy (i.e. it's too hard to pedal), then I gear down. There's not a &quot;right&quot; gear to be in; it's relative to my current speed and how much work I feel like doing, or, in some cases, how much torque I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22935" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T18:51:05.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34876" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:03:36.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you try BetaBrand. They are costly but these are the only cloths that I've found that meet that criteria. THey have a whole line of &quot;bike to work&quot; clothes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.betabrand.com/collections/bike-to-work.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.betabrand.com/collections/bike-to-work.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22720" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T19:03:36.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34724" CreationDate="2015-10-05T22:25:12.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is how, and how much, you are using that hub brake. If you're taking it down hills and riding the hub brake to slow down, you are generating a LOT of heat inside that complex and fragile hub, which will cause warping, melting, brittleness, fatigue, i.e &quot;bad things&quot;, so take a good look at the parts your pulling out. It may be that you need to supplement the hub brake with a decent external brake to prevent this from happening in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T22:25:12.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34833" CreationDate="2015-10-05T22:43:52.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this happen one time on a stint down the coast. Six flats. All rim-side. Lovely. I've already seen some good solutions above, but I'll throw in my two-cents just for clarity's sake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it's probably not the patch but the tube getting re-punctured/stressed in the same place - the patch just happens to be there, so I would (as someone above suggested) switch out rim-tape (that being said, try using a new tire just to take that variable out of play). Also, run your finger inside the rim to see if there are any sharp pieces sticking out either on the side or from the spoke hole. You may need to use a file to smooth them out or remove them. You didn't describe the puncture, and it may have been caused by the spoke-hole, or it could have  been something else. It's worth taking a closer look - if it's a length-wise cut, rather than a puncture, the rims are biting into the tire, and the rim-strip should fix the problem - as long as it's wide enough. Also, when you see the rim tape sliding around, you have to ask 'why?'. You may have been riding on underinflated tires, or had a small collision with a curb which created the stress that caused the flat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14648" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T22:43:52.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2111" CreationDate="2015-10-06T00:35:05.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its a rough tough place on a bike.  I have used cheap PRS radios (UHF frequency) because they can be found for $30-$40 NZ used, they run off normal AA batteries, and earpiece/mike sets are $10 each.  I clip the radio onto my collar so its up high enough for good signal, or on my belt and use the PTT mike on my collar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example radio &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trademe.co.nz/955489690&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.trademe.co.nz/955489690&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhAgz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhAgz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example image of radios&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of earpiece &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trademe.co.nz/959138702&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.trademe.co.nz/959138702&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Range is about a kilometre, more if its open space like a road.  VOX is a setting but I found it too sensitive.   They're not small nor light either, but at the price I won't cry for breaking one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally - they're a standard transceiver rather than a proprietary pair, where one breaks and the other becomes useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T00:35:05.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34889" CreationDate="2015-10-06T02:20:14.713" Score="5" ViewCount="5953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Merida Duke 650 hardtail mountain bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue with my bike is the chain continuously keeps coming out of gear while I am going down hill on bumpy surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this happening because my rear derailleur is too soft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a quick fix or trick to avoid this from happening?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22909" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T05:20:26.030" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T08:34:10.817" Title="How do I prevent my chain from dropping down while going downhill on bumpy surfaces?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;downhill&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34888" CreationDate="2015-10-06T02:23:57.573" Score="6" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just received a new Shimano Deore rear derailleur, which has large gobs of lubricant in two locations (one clearly visible in photo). This seems excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I leave it, or are they expecting you to wipe the excess away before installing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ahyi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ahyi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Deore RD, new&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22940" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T12:14:05.990" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T16:54:56.413" Title="Is there excessive lubricant on my new rear derailleur?" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;lubricant&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34887" CreationDate="2015-10-06T02:55:48.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd wipe it off a bit--it won't serve any purpose as it is, apart from collecting dirt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T02:55:48.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34886" CreationDate="2015-10-06T04:12:51.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to measure your chain for stretch, it may be too stretched and no longer meshing with the gears properly.  There are tools for this or you can do it with a ruler--one foot of ruler should exactly match the distance between pins on the chain; if the pins are not lining up with the marks on the ruler it may be time to replace.  If you do replace the chain, cut the new one to length according to instructions rather than according to the old chain length, in case it was too long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your high and low limit screws on your front derailleur--perhaps they are set too far apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try tightening the &quot;B&quot; screw of your rear derailleur to put a bit more tension on the chain.  The &quot;B&quot; screw is underneath the derailleur hanger and can be screwed in from the rear of the bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1464" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T04:12:51.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34886" CreationDate="2015-10-06T04:23:34.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no easy and free solution for this, since your bike is not meant to be going downhill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing you can do is go downhill using the largest front chainring and a pretty large rear cog (but not the largest). This will ensure a pretty good rear derailleur tension which will most probably prevent the chain fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to spend money on this you could convert to 1x10 or 1x11 (after making sure that the gearing will be good for your rides) and use a narrow wide chainring and a derailleur with a clutch mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="908" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T04:23:34.723" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34910" CreationDate="2015-10-06T04:54:38.107" Score="2" ViewCount="3107" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding BMX bikes, is there an easy way to determine what top tube length is most suitable for a person based on their height? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, most LBS only want to talk about BMX size in terms of wheels (&quot;it's a 20 inch&quot; or &quot;it's an 18 inch) since they're mostly considered to be kid's bikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22576" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T20:35:53.970" Title="Ideal top tube length for BMX" Tags="&lt;bike-fit&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34887" CreationDate="2015-10-06T06:23:00.920" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of that goo is very typical of drivetrain components that are fresh from the factory. The factory uses a particularly thick lubricant to protect the parts until they're purchased or installed (lest they sit on a shelf and risk being exposed to moisture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the factory is expecting whoever installs said drivetrain components to identify any excessive grease (some of it is there for good cause, such as protecting the inner spring from the elements), wipe it down, and re-lubricate with something lighter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T16:54:56.413" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T16:54:56.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3957" CreationDate="2015-10-06T06:38:15.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;BACK OFF (mnemonic device) TO GET PEDAL OFF&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm standing at each pedal with the wrench in the upwards position (I get the most torque this way) I remember the words &quot;Back Off&quot; meaning I turn the wrench towards the back of the bike to get the pedal off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22942" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T12:13:10.420" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T12:13:10.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-06T07:01:41.023" Score="1" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Schwinn Volare 1300, bought from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00P0IN0K4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the pedal on my crank arm came off today, when I tried to screw it back on I noticed that the hole where the screw goes has become smooth and does not have the screw notches on it anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've taken to my local repair shop and they told me I will need a replacement crankset. I have contacted warranty and am waiting for a response (as the bike is only a month old now) but in case that does not follow through, can someone suggest a compatible crank set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a closer look:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbT3W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbT3W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know much about bikes so am not sure what kind to order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22943" LastActivityDate="2020-10-04T20:42:45.677" Title="What kind of crankset to get for this bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-06T07:15:02.303" Score="2" ViewCount="1903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received a MTB as a birthday gift. I'm 18 now but have been riding bikes since I was 6. I've always wanted to wheelie for longer distances and now I learned how to after praying. But anyway, I'd like to improve by training my muscles, but I don't know what muscles I have to stress in order to get better wheelie endurance. I have a back hydraulic suspension which I set to bet pretty hard because the softer it is the more of a setback it is for wheeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22944" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T12:02:22.673" Title="What muscles am I using when wheeling?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;training&gt;&lt;fitness&gt;&lt;tricks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14454" CreationDate="2015-10-06T09:59:58.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bikes with 1 front gear comes with a &quot;guard&quot; on the chainring that prevent chain from falling. When this guard broken up chain will easily fall at the extreme gear position, usually when you turn the pedals back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T09:59:58.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34894" CreationDate="2015-10-06T10:15:14.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a poorly assembled bike to me - I reckon its a warranty job if it came with pedals installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you installed the pedals yourself, then you didn't do them up tight enough, and they've stripped the threads.... though a month is quite quick for that to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure the pedals and the cranks had compatible threads?  Not a 9/16&quot; and 1/2&quot; mashed together with force?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question - you need a ruler.  It &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like a 175mm long alloy crank with a 5 leg spider.  If the warranty doesn't cover it, you'll need to remove the crank, and take it to a LBS.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools you'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crank Puller&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;14mm socket to get the nut/bolt out of the middle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whatever fitting the five chain bolts have - possibly a hex head/allen or maybe torx.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or get the LBS to do the job, and to give the whole bike a once-over for safeties sake too.  I see in the Amazon link comments like &quot;returned, pedal wouldn't thread in the hole.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T10:15:14.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34860" CreationDate="2015-10-06T11:06:06.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I worked it out - its the cleats and riding a MTB trail that caused my blister.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hows that?  I noticed today that when there's a mound or little crest, I've been locking up my legs and the rear wheel gets lifted up by the cleats.  When I'm off the saddle, sitting back down drives the chamois pad downwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix was to wear a belt with my bike pants to hold them up, or to take them in a bit next time the sewing machine is set up.   Or buy a smaller size.  Or wear normal pants over the top of the padded biking pants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T11:06:06.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36583" CreationDate="2015-10-06T12:02:53.043" Score="5" ViewCount="4737" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my latest ride I managed to put a cut in the sidewall of my front tyre (Specialized S-Works Purgatory 26x2.2&quot;). The sealant (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.notubes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stan's No Tubes&lt;/a&gt;) didn't manage to seal the cut, presumably because the sealant lines the tread and not the sidewall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I was out on the trail I re-inflated the tyre and lay the bike on its side to seal the cut. Everything seemed fine until I got on the bike to ride it again, as the tyre rolled it deformed slightly and opened up the cut again. I managed to get home but had to re-inflate the tyre a couple of times to get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/925/how-can-i-repair-a-tyre-with-a-deep-cut&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; suggests the use of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/emergency-tire-boot-tb-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tire Boot&lt;/a&gt; but on the Park Tool site it suggests that it is only good for tubed tyres: &lt;em&gt;&quot;...in any tubed tire...&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the cut seems fairly minor but the sidewall is quite thin, is there any chance of repair or is it time to invest in some new rubber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Et5H.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Et5H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cut in sidewall&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22921" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:56:04.480" Title="Repair cut in sidewall of tubeless tyre" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;tubeless&gt;&lt;sealant&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34900" CreationDate="2015-10-06T12:23:22.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know &quot;the&quot; answer, but a couple of ideas come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Switch to using a tube in that tire, possibly with a liner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a tube patch on the inside of the tire and continue running tubeless. Having the patch on the inside means that air pressure in the tire helps to hold it in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting in a tube changes the role of the tire from air container to tube restrainer. That cut doesn't look too bad – but do look at the inside to see how much damage was done. If the threads of the casing are cut I think you may have trouble keeping the cut from growing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest problem you'll run into here is that the sidewalls are going to flex a lot and it may be necessary to have some kind of mechanical patch to prevent the cut from reopening if you continue running the tires without tubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is your front tire, I'd think about moving it to the back if you try patching it. The consequences of a blowout on the front are much worse that the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW - clever move to put the bike on its side to get the sealant to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T00:50:40.013" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T00:50:40.013" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21889" CreationDate="2015-10-06T14:56:04.953" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes i have been riding for long time but started to get pain when  i went out on longer rides upper back neck i have raised the stem shortened it changed bars wider  seat before after  done exercises physio changed bike frames  done the bike dynamics bike sizing check i still get pain i should be able to ride a 100 easily but pain in upper back stops me as most bike s go up in size the top tube lenghthens as i need shorter top tube bigger head steerer its more like trial and error which is expensive if you havent got much money .&#xA;all i can say is people change there bike size and ride diffrent bikes to prevent rsi i reckon that what they do in the tour as their bike positions seem a times impossible set ups like riding on the hoods they are very upright back seems very relaxed then they appear over stretched its not all its cut out to be as many pros are million airs and have many bikes and team of massages on tap and pro bike fitters there is a lot not being said &#xA;ebay is full of frames for sale why people are in pain. or materialism if there was no pain there would be no need to change frames all the time &#xA;the cycling industry is a big racket !expensive and complicated &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22951" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T14:56:04.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23229" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:51:57.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having lots of bikes registered would make the registry more effectively.  If bike shops automatically registered every bike sold and governments that license bike automatically registered  every bike, the system would be more more effective.  these processes could be computerized so that the shops and government needed very little additional effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22953" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T16:51:57.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23773" CreationDate="2015-10-06T18:51:09.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a trunk mounted Thule bike rack for my Lexus back in May.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday while driving the back glass exploded!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After opening the trunk it was obvious the pressure from the metal clips which were touching the glass caused the glass to break. According to the guy who replaced the glass, the window tinting film was the reason the glass didn't shatter into the car! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this never happens to anyone and now I don't know how to get my bike around!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22956" LastEditorUserId="6007" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T20:49:32.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T20:49:32.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34891" CreationDate="2015-10-06T20:29:34.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the tool you're looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/bmx-bike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/bmx-bike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a linear calculation, but it would be fair to say that a rough estimate is: start with a 22.5&quot; top tube for a 6' adult male, and add/subtract half an inch of top tube for every inch of height.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GL8i2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GL8i2.png&quot; alt=&quot;bmx calculator&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastEditorUserId="5237" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T20:35:53.970" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T20:35:53.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34913" CreationDate="2015-10-06T23:03:08.460" Score="7" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;What aspects of the geometry of a BMX bike have an effect on the ease (or lack of ease) with which a manual can be performed? Obviously there is an element of skill to performing a manual, but do variables like chain stay length have an influence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22576" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T23:34:41.510" Title="Effect of BMX bike geometry on manualing" Tags="&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;tricks&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34911" CreationDate="2015-10-06T23:34:41.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware, it's all about the rider's location vs. that of the rear wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A short chain stay helps, because it tucks the rear wheel up closer under your center of gravity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What really makes a big difference is the tilt of the handlebars: When the handlebars are rocked backwards, it lets you get your center of gravity way back past the rear wheel, making it really easy to lift the front wheel. In the same manner, tilting the bars forwards makes it hard to manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T23:34:41.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34915" CreationDate="2015-10-07T01:10:28.770" Score="4" ViewCount="1908" Body="&lt;p&gt;The little plastic lever to tighten the o-ring broke on my floor pump. It's probably fifteen years old. The model is a Pyramid Pro. The broken bit is highlighted in red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0FE8p.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0FE8p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing else wrong with it and it seems silly to toss the whole thing over so small a problem. Is it supposed to be easy to replace the head on cheapo pumps like this? I cannot easily figure out how any of the pieces are supposed to come apart. Neither end of the hose screws apart. There's a large allen key hole that I think allows for dismantling the whole lower plastic housing, but it's not obvious to me that the hose is in any sense replaceable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the answer is I'm just being stupid cheap and need to a buy a new pump. Just checking first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22453" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T01:25:36.033" Title="Fix a broken floor pump, replace pump head" Tags="&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34914" CreationDate="2015-10-07T01:25:36.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slica makes a very nice &lt;a href=&quot;http://silca.cc/collections/all-silca/products/silca-17-4-stainless-presta-head&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;presta pump head&lt;/a&gt; (below), the cost in the US is around $35. For that it ought to work well – and it does. The connection is a Schrader (car tire) thread and it is a pain to find a hose barb with that thread. What I did was to cut off the end of the hose and then use the threads on the pump head as a hose barb. I put a hose clamp on it and it holds just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VB1UZ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VB1UZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T01:25:36.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34916" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-07T02:47:43.737" Score="11" ViewCount="12424" Body="&lt;p&gt;When replacing the rear brake pads I noticed that 4 spokes were broken and the wheel wobbles.  I phoned a local bike shop and was told that they recommend replacing the wheel if more than 3 spokes are broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that this is a safety precaution but wonder if the recommendation is in line with common practice.  I certainly have no desire to get thrown off the bike in traffic, but it also seems a waste to (probably) discard an entire wheel because it &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be damaged and &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; fail at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a 27&quot; road bike, inexpensive, which I ride for transportation in the city (Tokyo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear rim is a bit scored from waiting too long to replace the brake pad, which is another factor to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify slightly, it probably would be cheaper to replace the wheel as suggested below.  My objection is more of an ethical one -- tossing something useful into a hole in the ground seems irresponsible.  Difficult to avoid though, the way things work right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22959" LastEditorUserId="22963" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T08:04:37.343" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T19:04:33.330" Title="Replace rim because of 4 broken spokes?" Tags="&lt;rims&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18654" CreationDate="2015-10-07T03:17:50.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been running Trek TLR all summer in San Diego (4 months).  I use Trek TLR wheels and tyres.  I lose air every day in the rear.  It has never sealed properly, regardless of the amount of sealant.  What I have found is that the factory rims are junk and the seam in the rim from manufacturing makes sealing impossible.  I am totally NOT surprised that the Trek guys told you that the TLR tires leak every day.  I have to pump before in the morning before my commute, and then pump at the office when I prepare to return home at the end of the day.  Failure to do so have killed the lifespan of the tires becuase running low kills the sidewalls.  I hate changing clincher tubes, so I tolerate the TLR monkey business.  I've never had a 'flat' while riding on TLR and I ride some really BAD city roads with potholes and debris from hell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22960" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T03:17:50.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34916" CreationDate="2015-10-07T03:33:13.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one can give you a definitive answer that it is safe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find Japanese bike shops to generally be very conservative in terms of safety, which is why they're recommending replacement. No one wants to be responsible for any harm that comes to you (or your bike) if the wheel fails catastrophically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, if it were my own bike I would replace the four spokes, retension and retrue the wheel and see what happens. If it continued to break spokes, I'd junk it. But this is contingent on you being able to: 1) source spokes of the right length and type; and 2) rethread the new spokes, true your wheel, and retension everything correctly.  At minimum you need the right spoke wrenches and this would also be much easier if you had a truing stand and tension meter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, since it's a lot of trouble, why not just plunk out the $100/¥10,000/100 euro for a new wheel? At least you'll be able to keep your old tire and tube. I've also found that if you can find a grimy old bike shop, they might sell you an old wheel for much less than  a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T03:33:13.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34916" CreationDate="2015-10-07T03:58:45.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its your call - depends on how you ride.   I've replaced at least 15 spokes in a 26&quot; MTB wheel, but always one or two at a time and I still ride that wheel today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were a racer with fewer spokes on the wheel, then absolutely a new rim.  Since its a city bike, much less of a problem should it degrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel repairs are reasonably easy, but take time and bike tools and the knack to true the wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T03:58:45.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29753" CreationDate="2015-10-07T04:07:24.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to develop your core as well as arms, so that's weights.  Don't forget your lower back as well - an area cyclists need stability, which comes from strength and endurance.  Handgrip exercises are good too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T04:07:24.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34916" CreationDate="2015-10-07T05:07:37.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a reasonably built and loaded bike (which is how I hear you describing your bike) with well built wheels I would expect the wheels to last a very long time. With that in mind, several broken spokes with no obvious cause are a red flag. My first thought would be inadequate tension leading to flexing and fatigue. If that is the case, other spokes will likely follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a damaged rim, it might be worth biting the bullet and buying a new wheel – or if you have a good hub, having it rebuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're inclined to do the work yourself, replacing spokes isn't too hard and the tools are reasonably inexpensive. There is a knack to truing wheels, but you'll be starting from a reasonable place and all you will likely need to do is to tension the new spokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T05:07:37.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34873" CreationDate="2015-10-07T08:29:51.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hole positions for Keo and Delta are exactly the same. I've switched over 3 years ago and the shoes didn't cause any problem.Even Shimano cleats of the 3-hole type have exactly the same pattern for the holes. And with the adapter Speedplay cleats will fit too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T08:29:51.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34925" CreationDate="2015-10-07T08:42:16.433" Score="3" ViewCount="9576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently went to get my bike ready for a ride, and I noticed right away that my rear tire had completely deflated. I took off the wheel, and took out the tube and checked it for puncture but didn't find anything. So, I put the tube back in and inflated the tire. As usual I had the tube inflated to 120psi, the max for the tire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went on a ride, it did not go flat on me. I put my bike away, and lo and behold the next time I looked it was completely deflated again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What causes an inner tube to deflate on its own? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also gets very hot in my garage. Does heat play a part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume a new tube will do the trick. Is there a reason to worry, or can I safely ignore the problem and just inflate the tube every time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21300" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T22:10:53.770" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T22:10:53.770" Title="What causes a tube to become deflated on its own?" Tags="&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34924" CreationDate="2015-10-07T09:15:08.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the puncture in an inner tube is very small and the air leaks out very slowly.  This is called a &lt;em&gt;slow puncture&lt;/em&gt;.  The classic technique for finding a slow puncture is to immerse the partially inflated inner tube in water and watch for the appearance of any bubbles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience even the slowest punctures usually get bigger somehow - I don't know how but I prefer not to wait until this happens so I'll usually fix the tube or replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T09:15:08.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34924" CreationDate="2015-10-07T09:15:50.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even a new tube will deflate over time - it is incredibly difficult to fully seal the tube/valve perfectly so air will leak out, mostly around the valve seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An older tube may well have worn rubber in the seal, around the edge of the valve stem where it joins the tube, or possibly the tube has worn thinner. All these will allow air to leak away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the higher pressure your tyre is at, the faster it will lose pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a brand new 90psi tube on my bike, I'd expect to have to pump it every week when I want to ride it. And that is with no holes, punctures or tears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T09:15:50.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34930" CreationDate="2015-10-07T12:32:48.153" Score="5" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have bought my first dynamo hub wheel with Shimano DH-3N72 hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The axle of the wheel fells like if it is over-tightened a bit, it rotates with feeling of clicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I loose the cones in the hub OR I am wrong and this is just magnetic forces inside a hub provide me such a feeling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T13:03:01.943" Title="Dynamo hub cones regulation" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;hub&gt;&lt;dynamo&gt;&lt;cones&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34927" CreationDate="2015-10-07T12:45:17.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The feeling of notches is just the resistance you feel from moving the magnets past the coils in the hub.  That's what generates the power.  The hub is fine!  When you actually ride the bike you won't feel a thing. Well, at least I don't feel anything. Some people have said they feel vibrations from their dynamo hub at lower speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1349" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T12:45:17.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12362" CreationDate="2015-10-07T12:50:56.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're worried you could substitute pretty much anything clean, solid and non-metallic. The spacers are just wedges of plastic, they're not that magic. A small strip of plywood does the job, that's what I used the first time I changed my pads when I was worried about the dire warnings I'd read. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've changed dozens of pads since then and don't bother any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of changing pads is pretty straightforward, you take the old ones off, and shove the new ones straight in. Just don't muck around while the pads are out and don't squeeze the levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="896" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T12:50:56.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34927" CreationDate="2015-10-07T13:03:01.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the cones were over tightened you would likely feel two distinct notched, one finer one caused by over tightening the bearing cone and a coarser notch caused by the magnet/coil interaction.  Because you only described one type of notch I would hazard a guess that it is the magnet/coil interaction, which is normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T13:03:01.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34916" CreationDate="2015-10-07T16:26:58.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can replace unlimited spokes if the wheel is in good condition.  It does require experience and special equipment, but for a bike shop it is straightforward.  Spokes cost the  equivalent of a few dollars each.   With labor, it should be about $30-$40 at a good bike shop. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be more concerned about the rim scoring.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, it's not going into the ground.  A bike wheel is easily recycled.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22966" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T16:26:58.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29753" CreationDate="2015-10-07T16:36:13.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upper body strength will increase your skills off-road. Flicking the bike around will be that much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because you're a &quot;Skinny build&quot; doesn't mean that it's going to be a lot of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know skinny 12-year-olds who can clear a 2' obstacle on their BMX bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Muscle bulk is not synonymous with muscle strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to build upper-body strength, ride a rigid bike on the trail. Riding BMX is also great for upper-body fitness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T16:36:13.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-07T18:57:21.793" Score="-2" ViewCount="6386" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having this issue for a few months, and it's getting more and more prevalent. When I'm pedaling with force, particularly when standing, the chain slips, which is annoying, counterproductive, and dangerous. Lately, it will happen I almost every other pump of the pedals. This occurs no matter which gear the bike is in, but for the record I usually keep it at the highest gear and highest friction. I've only had it for about a year, and I got it brand new. I would really like to fix this issue, since it's my only transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22967" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T18:33:33.940" Title="Bike chain is skipping when pedaling with force" Tags="&lt;chain&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-11-11T03:32:43.640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34916" CreationDate="2015-10-07T19:04:33.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends, and upon a number of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I blew three spokes on a 27&quot; Weinmann wheel in April, and I think I commuted for 3 days on it before I realized that I'd blown the spokes. Weinmann wheels have an excellent reputation, including those from a 1986 Schwinn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a rule that old wheels are no match for old bikes and old bicyclists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In looking at the wheel and spokes, LBS mechanic [whom I know and trust] said that metal fatigue was the culprit. I could have paid to get the spokes replaced, but I'd be gambling that I'd blow another spoke in a week or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided instead to pull the 27&quot; wheel from my wife's old road, a 1989 Schwinn, have it mounted, and the wheel trued. I rode on it until mid June--when I blew a spoke on that wheel and the rim bent badly enough that the tire rubbed on the chain stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, I bought a new wheel, and upgraded from a bolt-on to a quick release, which produced a bit of extra cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wheel is &quot;older&quot;, get a new wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14344" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T19:04:33.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34933" CreationDate="2015-10-07T19:41:04.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're racking up the kilometers / miles your chain could be wearing out. This is easy to check. The link spacing on bicycle chains is 1/2&quot; – there are tools for this, but you can get a rough idea with just a ruler – measure out 10 or 12 inches along the top of the chain. As the chain wears it will get longer and you'll see the pins moving apart. A chain is worn out when you're approaching 0.75% of &quot;stretch.&quot; Roughly speaking this is about 1/8&quot; at 12 inches. If a careful measurement show you something close to that you've probably found the culprit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace the chain for sure, a worn chain also damages the cassette and the chain rings. All of which are more expensive than a chain. The conservative thing to do would be to replace the cassette along with the chain (and it sounds like you want one that gives you a higher top gear). If money is an issue start with the chain. IF the problem persists, also do the cassette.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T19:41:04.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32710" CreationDate="2015-10-08T00:27:24.743" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen time trail racers do the opposite and run a 22mm or 23mm tire in back and a 25mm up front.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason not to have a larger tire in back is because it's comparatively heavier and all the extra weight is around the circumference of the wheel.  When you are putting power through the crank and trying to spin up the rear wheel, that extra weight is felt and you need more power compared to the effort required when riding a lighter, possibly smaller tire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other reason I can think of is that it might actually be more aero to have a larger tire up front when paired with a wide rim, which is the current industry trend.  Every wheel manufacturer seems to find evidence that whatever they are doing is the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19106" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T00:27:24.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34938" CreationDate="2015-10-08T01:00:04.207" Score="8" ViewCount="6642" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I did a hasty fix this morning when I had a puncture. It got me to where I needed to go, but by the evening it was flat again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked under water and there is that tiny little air bubbles coming out from under the patch. Is there any way for me to save this tube and patch well, or will I just need to replace it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21255" LastEditorUserId="21255" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T01:11:07.210" LastActivityDate="2019-04-01T15:22:34.233" Title="Can I fix a bad tube patch?" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34937" CreationDate="2015-10-08T01:11:32.347" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My last 26&quot; tube cost $8 NZ, so not a lot.  Depends how much time you want to invest, and how much patches cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poor abrading/sanding/scouring ot the area before applying the rubber cement will leave an area of bad adhesion, and the pressurised air can find its way out.   I bet you were in a hurry and didn't give the cement 10 minutes to cure before fitting the patch?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad patches can be a waste of time too - if they're particularly poor quality or excessively cheap, or old or battered then there's a fair chance you'll get poor adhesion.  To be blunt, 48 patches for a dollar from Ebay or alibaba is not generally going to be a good patch.  Old, watery or stale cement/glue can be an issue too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your leak is because the patch straddles a ridge then you might be able to shove some rubber cement down there, and then spend a couple minutes pressuring the patch on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is that a good patch becomes chemically welded to the rubber tyre/tire.  You often cannot remove the well-adhered patch and do it over.  Your best bet would be to abraid the tyre surface, then push cement into the leak and around the area, WAIT 10 MINUTES, then fit another patch and press it down firmly with a spoon edge or a roller, or a large round coin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the patch adhesion is really poor it will peel off in one piece, and you can attempt to buff the tube to remove traces of glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that fails, fit a new tube.   For the cost, its not worth fitting $10 of patches to fix a $10 tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2019-03-31T19:28:21.753" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T19:28:21.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12488" CreationDate="2015-10-08T01:32:34.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Least worn tyre on the front, always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have pretty worn tyres, the back is completely smooth, and the front has maybe half a mm of tread in the middle.  Both have lugs on the shoulders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have been training hard for an upcoming 12-hour MTB endurance social event.  &lt;strong&gt;All&lt;/strong&gt; my rear-wheel slips have been recoverable, (at least a dozen), while &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; front wheel slips were complete wipeouts resulting in skidding, blood and one smashed phone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said - &quot;sufficient&quot; tread on both is a really good idea.  You can get away with less tread on the road than off-road Except when the road is wet. If you have low tread on a road bike on a wet road - you will probably go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T20:34:52.003" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T20:34:52.003" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14412" CreationDate="2015-10-08T03:20:14.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That cog is barely worn at all. I wouldn't bother flipping it until the tip of the teeth is about 2mm, and then I'd ride it until the tips were breaking off. Specifically, that's what I actually do and I have a cog bolted to my workshop wall to remind me what &quot;slightly too worn&quot; looks like. The problem is that the chain starts to skip or hang, because the teeth are so short the chain will easily ride up on or over them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqlbx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dqlbx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;worn rohloff cog&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I replaced that cog I did not replace the chainring, just the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with leaving it until too many teeth have broken off is that it can be hard to get a chain whip on to remove the cog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T08:42:41.563" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T08:42:41.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32710" CreationDate="2015-10-08T06:28:32.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be genuinely surprised if it made any real-world difference.  Some racers commit all sorts of voodoo... err... questionable practices on the off chance it might give them an advantage. In terms of 23 vs 25 mm tires, both sizes are frequently used by pro tour teams, if one had a distinct advantage over the other you wouldn't see both sizes being used at the same events.  It terms of aerodynamics, &lt;a href=&quot;https://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/05/02/aerodynamics-of-real-world-bicycles/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;even for sizes up to 32 mm  there doesn't seem to be much difference in   aerodynamics drag&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of comfort getting the right tire pressure for your body weight will likely have a bigger effect than 2mm gain in the tire width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other disadvantages include complications  introduced into the assembly and supply chain for the manufacturer, which would eat into profits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastEditorUserId="4534" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T06:37:12.950" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T06:37:12.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35023" CreationDate="2015-10-08T09:12:42.610" Score="4" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I pedal fairly hard there is a creak coming from the bottom of the bike. I have read several other questions which talk about a similar thing however my situation is slightly different:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creaking stops when I flip the right hand pedal 180 degrees. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just change the pedals to fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear I believe this is a problem with the pedals.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Related questions dealing with other sources of creaking from the bottom bracket, crankset, or pedal area:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/33/bottom-bracket-creaking?rq=1&quot;&gt;Bottom Bracket Creaking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/124/creaking-from-cranks-spindle-how-to-fix?rq=1&quot;&gt;Creaking from cranks/spindle. How to fix?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20055" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.280" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T12:55:32.117" Title="Bike creaking (possibly pedals?)" Tags="&lt;pedals&gt;&lt;creak&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-08T14:26:19.073" Score="0" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the verge of buying an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.argon18bike.com/bikes/triathlon-tt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Argon18&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/category/bikes/time-trial-triathlon/product/review-argon-18-e-114-11-frame-fork-and-stem-39991/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;E-114&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone please advise me as to whether it is a track or a triathlon bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the hub spacing on the rear and the bb height it seems to be a track bike. The seller says it is a tri bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5567" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T12:20:06.500" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T12:20:06.500" Title="Tri bike or track bike?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;triathlon&gt;&lt;track-racing&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34944" CreationDate="2015-10-08T15:03:08.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manufacturer has uploaded a video for the E114 stating that it is a triathlon bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;div class=&quot;youtube-embed&quot;&gt;&lt;div&gt;&#xD;&#xA;                &lt;iframe width=&quot;640px&quot; height=&quot;395px&quot; src=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/embed/bnEMYhUJtJY?start=0&quot;&gt;&lt;/iframe&gt;&#xD;&#xA;            &lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt; Argon18 Video on youtube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="519" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T17:59:34.993" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T17:59:34.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29753" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:29:59.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;More pedalling torque!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the increased pedalling torque with stronger rowing muscles. When you stand-up to pedal hard, your bodyweight alone is not enough. You'll notice that you tend to pull up on the bars. This allows you to push down on the pedals harder since you are no-longer limited by just your body-weight and gravity. Look at world-class track-cyclists and you'll see they aren't just lower-body. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stronger rowing muscles = more pedalling torque.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22969" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T21:29:59.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29753" CreationDate="2015-10-08T22:55:12.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, it's all about your core. Your legs need leverage to push the pedals, and that comes from your core. Crunches are probably the best exercise you can do to improve your cycling. You help stabilize your core with your back and arms, so put a pull up bar in a doorway, and do pull ups. That's all you need to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely don't need to do a weight routine. You don't even have to get fancy. Back in the day when I was a serious cyclist, I was doing 200 crunches and 40 pull-ups almost every day. Half in the morning, half in the evening. That's a little extreme for most people, but I was a little extreme back then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20494" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T22:55:12.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-08T23:28:36.033" Score="-2" ViewCount="14361" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone sold me a Trek road bike for $200. The bike says Alpha Aluminium on the frame and the front forks say Bontrager. I tried looking it up on the internet but didn't have much luck. I'm looking for any info about this bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22984" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T03:32:39.980" Title="How much is a Trek Alpha aluminium 58cm road bike worth?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-10-12T02:34:55.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34948" CreationDate="2015-10-09T03:32:39.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth $200.  That's the price a willing buyer just paid a willing seller for that bike in your area.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have some more information about it, you might try looking it up at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchBikes.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/SearchBikes.aspx&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21242" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T03:32:39.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34944" CreationDate="2015-10-09T04:22:14.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.argon18bike.com/bikes/triathlon-tt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Argon 18 website&lt;/a&gt; it is almost certainly a triathlon bike. The other E series bikes are listed in the triathlon/time trial section, and their track bikes use a different naming scheme. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/category/bikes/time-trial-triathlon/product/review-argon-18-e-114-11-frame-fork-and-stem-39991/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The reviews I found&lt;/a&gt; also call it a triathlon bike. Then there are the brakes and derailers (and triathlon bars) mentioned by @ojs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the difference between &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Track_cycling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;track&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triathlon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;triathlon&lt;/a&gt; riding and the rather obvious differences between bikes meant for each discipline (derailers vs. no derailers for starters) it seems quite odd that the seller can't tell you what type of bike it is.&#xA;I'd second @RoboKaren's suggestion that you check it out as a possible stolen bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T04:22:14.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6099" CreationDate="2015-10-09T07:39:32.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Find a decent pair of medium vice grips, and weld a pipe approximately 1-3/8 diameter by 3&quot; length, (you'll have to cut into 2 equal halves by cutting down the 3&quot; length), weld 1 of the the halves onto the upper and the other1to the  the lower jaws of the vice grips perpendicular to the pliers. You attach to whatever piece of stand-off arm by welding, clamping, whatever. I built my bike stand from parts thrown away by local businesses. The lower stand is made from a collapsible P.A. monitor stand, that is adjustibe by width of the3 outrigger &quot;feet&quot;, and adjusts to 5' high from26&quot;. The center section is made from a steel adjustable telescoping floor vacuum pipe. The top section is from a drum riser and several pieces of hardware/ clamps made for the drums, cymbals. I am currently working on some seatpost clamps, but am currently using handlebar end &quot;antlers&quot;  wrapped with foam grips. The stand holds 2 mountain bikes and it's not even a bit strained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22989" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T07:39:32.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6099" CreationDate="2015-10-09T08:24:20.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you weld?   Some of these homemade efforts work really well, and will last many decades longer than plasticky ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X2lyK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X2lyK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full detail &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cycletrailers.co.nz/html/bike_workstands.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cycletrailers.co.nz/html/bike_workstands.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or here's someone else's idea&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K3RJH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/K3RJH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-bike-repair-stand/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-bike-repair-stand/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OTthV.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OTthV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Finally here's what I made, usiog some old scaffolding cross braces.  Theres an old concrete umbrella stand at the bottom of the pole, and all my tools can sit in the rear of the car for easier access.  Only problem is the bike wobbles about if you're leaning on a spanner, but it provides easy access without bending down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T08:24:20.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11044" CreationDate="2015-10-09T10:29:23.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's my suggestion: you'll need one piece of 1&quot; PVC plumbing pipe, and two end caps to suit.  Probably want some sealant too, or get threadded end caps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest a 1&quot; tube because its a standard size, and many older seat posts are 1&quot;, so light clamps should work at this size.  Its very commonly white too which helps visibility, but you could paint it once assembled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only gotcha is if the clamp of the light is angled to account for the seat post angle, then the light will end up pointing a little sideways.  Answer, get two and point one on either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even store some small light things inside the tube - tyre lever perhaps ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pE1Uk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pE1Uk.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T10:29:23.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-09T11:14:01.053" Score="3" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have time I like to get my &lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/9256&quot;&gt;bike and canoe&lt;/a&gt; out and do a day trip.  Doing a mile or two is not hard but a good day trip is between 8 and 14 miles. When I started at the beginning of the year 6 miles was all I could do before leg muscle fatigue (and butt soreness) did me in.  Now at the end of the season I can just make 14 miles in 3 hours with a bit of walking the last few miles.  I did a 22 mile bike only trip last week with similar results near the end of it.  So I am guessing 1 bike/canoe mile =~ 1.5 or 2 bike only miles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually bike/walk straight through as &lt;a href=&quot;https://outdoors.stackexchange.com/questions/6948&quot;&gt;going down the river&lt;/a&gt; is much slower (2 or 3 mph) and getting to the planned boat ramp before dark is critical. The trails are mostly rail to trail and unpaved. Friction, wind resistance and towing an extra 100+ pounds up a gentle slope, are the major impediments. I find a casual pedal of about 5 or 6 miles an hour to be the most effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My scheduled exercise time is an hour, 3 mornings per week.  Which include free weights, elliptical and recumbent stationary bike (wife's choice for our home gym). I found several related questions they all pretty much say to ride about 2/3 of your hard ride a few times a week.  I am looking for a solution that will allow me to do a really hard 20 minute exercise that equate to a 2 or 3 hour casual pedal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related Questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1549/i-wish-to-get-fit-therefore-should-i-have-a-heavy-bike&quot;&gt;I wish to get fit, therefore should I have a heavy bike?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3374/how-can-i-improve-my-stamina&quot;&gt;How can I improve my stamina?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/9226/does-spin-class-prepare-you-for-a-long-bike-ride&quot;&gt;Does spin class prepare you for a long bike ride?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/28522/how-long-does-it-take-to-be-ready-for-a-multi-day-ride-as-a-newbie&quot;&gt;How long does it take to be ready for a multi day ride as a newbie?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30543/training-involved-to-ride-175-miles-in-a-day&quot;&gt;Training involved to ride 175 miles (281 km) in a day&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/30787/help-for-a-169-mile-bike-ride&quot;&gt;Help for a 169 mile bike ride&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/32620/training-advice-for-road-cycling&quot;&gt;Training Advice for Road Cycling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And because I am over 50- &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/3516/age-specific-information-for-cyclists&quot;&gt;Age-specific information for cyclists&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14181" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:48:00.067" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T07:23:30.247" Title="How stay fit enough to make moderately hard rides a couple times a month?" Tags="&lt;training&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34954" CreationDate="2015-10-09T15:24:48.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difficulty is you want specifically to train for endurance, but you want to do it in short bursts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not saying a few squats won't help a bit, but they won't do the job.  And trying to push too hard on a bike for a few tens of minutes might improve your aerobic capacity but quite possibly at the expense of your knees.  You also need to be in a similar geometry so the benefit of an hour or 2 of moderate pedalling on the recumbent while reading/watching TV will be limited.  However (almost) within your constraints that might be the best place to start.  Or drop the elliptical in favour of more bike time if you really don't want to increase your total time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the fitness aspect; the soreness will only be dealt with by time in that saddle, or one &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; similar.  If the saddle suits you you don't need ages in it to keep yourself at a level suitable for spending 3 hours on it, but you do need to get on it every few days at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything you only do a couple of times a month will be hard, skipping anything over a week or two really hits your fitnesss for a specific task (a shorter figure even than that is often quoted, but in the context of an athlete's peak performance rather than something more casual).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also suggest that particularly as you build up the long towing rides rather than walking at the end you take a decent break and ride again.  This will be tricky if there are uphills involved, in that case you might get away with a walk or 2 earlier in the trip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One further suggestion given comments and other answers: switch one of your mixed exercise sessions per week to bike only from a month before your first ride/paddle trip to a week before your last of the season. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastEditorUserId="7309" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T12:17:05.430" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T12:17:05.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35056" CreationDate="2015-10-09T15:46:11.163" Score="7" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rode this bike in Germany in the summer and it was great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to buy it but I didn't write down the brand, model, or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just remember that it said on the frame, quite proudly, that it was made in Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It had a 3-gear hub and built-in dynamo lights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jlE8K.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jlE8K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unknown classy, old-fasihoned style bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8JPs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8JPs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cannot read the brand name of this bike&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="6678" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T20:52:14.797" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T11:22:19.423" Title="Can you help identify this classy, German-built city bike?" Tags="&lt;identify-this-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23629" CreationDate="2015-10-09T16:23:11.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a loose bottom bracket (BB). It needs to be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to buy a new bottom bracket along with two special tools: A crank puller and a bottom-bracket tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your current bottom-bracket is cup-and-cone style (it probably is), it can be removed with basic tools and elbow grease. If it's cartridge style, it can be removed with the BB tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are links to all three at Amazon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005DTIKQE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BB&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001A0AIAG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BB tool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001VS1M20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crank puller&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you could take the bike to your LBS and have them handle it. This is a common operation and probably wouldn't cost much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, the bolts that you see underneath the caps hold the cranks onto the bottom bracket spindle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T16:23:11.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34847" CreationDate="2015-10-09T18:47:04.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use bar end shifters; you do not have to look at the paddles to feel the gear position with your hands. The angle difference between index points is distinct enough, even when indexing ten gears, that you can just touch the paddle and know what gear you're in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22996" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T18:47:04.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34847" CreationDate="2015-10-09T19:02:00.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's all cadence related. No need to be a pro for that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8644" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T19:02:00.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34954" CreationDate="2015-10-09T20:09:34.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may find Grant Peterson's books &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bo17b.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eat Bacon, Don't Jog&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/bo17.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Just Ride&lt;/a&gt; helpful. He is a big proponent of maintaining fitness with short bursts of intense work. The essential idea is to choose an exercise regime that triggers the release of growth hormone to build muscle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the books quite enjoyable to read and his position makes sense – and seems to work for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T20:09:34.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34954" CreationDate="2015-10-09T20:31:38.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to build endurance is to spend time building endurance. The only way to get into biking shape is to spend time on your bike. Sprinting for 20 minutes will build strength, but very little endurance. You're not going to find any shortcuts here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put away the canoe, put down the weights, stay off of the elliptical and spend more time on your bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5237" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T20:31:38.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-09T23:35:07.200" Score="2" ViewCount="7137" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bike is locked to an indoor bike rack with a folding ABUS keyed bike lock.&#xA;Today I couldn't turn the key to release the lock after work.&#xA;No problem locking it in the morning.  Tried wiggling, banging, twisting and pulling on &quot;link&quot;.  Any suggestions?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22998" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T05:49:35.090" Title="Folding ABUS Lock will not UNLOCK" Tags="&lt;lock&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-10-10T22:22:08.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34966" CreationDate="2015-10-09T23:47:16.397" Score="7" ViewCount="4666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm replacing some old cartridge pads that I can't find inserts for with one-piece Kool-stops. Both are asymmetrical types, but the front set of old shoes are explicitly designated for &quot;tail-forward&quot; installation (see image). The only reason I can think of for doing this is for clearance of the fork when cable tension is released. Assuming that this isn't an issue in this particular case (it doesn't look like it would be) is there any other reason to follow this example, rather than installing in the more typical tail-behind orientation that the new pads are designed for? Context is cantilevers on suspension fork brake arch, if that makes a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46mav.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46mav.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shimano cartridge pad oriented tail-forward&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22446" LastEditorUserId="22446" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T11:39:27.700" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T11:39:27.700" Title="Orientation of asymmetrical brake pads on front vs. rear" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;brake-pads&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34963" CreationDate="2015-10-10T01:32:19.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try spraying some &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WD-40&lt;/a&gt; in there. And then reach for a hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also check if your key isn't damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2187" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T01:32:19.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34964" CreationDate="2015-10-10T01:53:08.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the KoolStop pads have a ramp at the leading edge (facing in the direction that the wheel rotation comes from – i.e., towards the back of the bike) that is supposed to help sweep water and other contaminants off of the rim. If you have these you'd want to face them in the right direction if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that and clearance I can't think of a reason why it would matter unless the pads are the type with replaceable cartridges in which case you need to make sure that the open end of carrier faces towards the rear so that the pads are pushed forward against the stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T01:53:08.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34969" CreationDate="2015-10-10T05:05:04.123" Score="1" ViewCount="2766" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time on any bike that I have broken a spoke. It instantly deformed the wheel making the bike un-rideable. From what I've read a single broken spoke should not do this, so anyone know what's going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3764" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T06:56:09.510" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T20:29:17.167" Title="One broken spoke = warped wheel" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;spokes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34963" CreationDate="2015-10-10T05:49:35.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lock have typically two kinds of problems. How far can you push the key in? Does it go in only partly, or does it go in fully but then you can't turn it? Often the disks inside have rotated so that you can't get the key in completely. Then it helps if you take a stiff wire or thin screwdriver and wiggle it up and down in the keyhole, and then try again with the key. But if the key goes in but doesn't turn, then it might be clogged up with dirt, in this case degreaser might help. Make sure you dry the lock carefully afterwards and don't use oil or grease to lubricate, they will just attract dirt and clog it up again. If you want to lubricate, use dry lubricant like graphite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18723" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T05:49:35.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34967" CreationDate="2015-10-10T06:54:13.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like that spoke was carrying a lot of tension by itself. Perhaps because the wheel had been damaged previously. When the spoke failed, the nearby spokes on the side with the broken spoke weren't tight enough (or plentiful enough) to support the rim and it was pulled into the warped shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that the way you were riding at the moment (if you were maneuvering or climbing – anything that would put an unbalanced load on the wheel) may have contributed to the sudden change of shape, or there may have been stresses in the spokes and/or rim that caused it to warp when the spoke broke. Do you know anything about the history of the wheel that might help us sort it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the wheel is well built with enough spokes and a rim that is appropriate for the use and the spokes are sufficiently and evenly tensioned the failure of a single spoke shouldn't be a huge event – you might find that the rim is dragging on the brakes a bit, but I wouldn't expect anything that you couldn't patch together well enough to ride home (assuming non-extreme conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caveat is that I tend to be pretty conservative – wide rims, lots of spokes, and I'm fussy about spoke tension. So I don't know too much about spoke failures on light weight wheels with a minimal spoke count. There I would expect the failure of a single spoke to be more of a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T06:54:13.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T07:39:33.463" Score="2" ViewCount="1420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the process of building up a new bike from scratch. Since the last time I have done this many things have changed, reading varios forums and watching numberless videos on YouTube have not helped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a carbon frame with a carbon fork without a crown race. The crown race is laminated into the fork. The bottom bracket is a press fit one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what is the best way to install the integrated head set and bottom bracket.&#xA;Some suggest to dry fit the bottom bracket, other grease it, yet other use Loctite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various forums suggested Loctite 641 or it's stronger form 609. There seem to be various opinions if one should use the Loctite activator 7471 or not. Also some say you must clean the frame with a special Loctite cleaner before applying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have settled to use only Loctite 641 without the cleaner and activator, as I see no benefit in using both. The contact points can be cleaned with alcohol or similar. The activator will only speed up the process from 30min down, I'm in no rush here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But will the Loctite cure without the activator, and is this the best/correct way to do this. Obviously I want to be able to remove and replace this parts if they wear down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22999" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T08:15:08.883" Title="Using Loctite for integrated head set and bottom bracket installation" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;bottom-bracket&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34970" CreationDate="2015-10-10T07:57:51.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Install following the manufacturers' specifications. If they don't recommend Loctite, then don't use it. It might affect the carbon compound of the frame. In no case I would use Loctite on the headset since these part need to be taken apart, reassembled and readjusted frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T07:57:51.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34970" CreationDate="2015-10-10T08:15:08.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule: if the manufacturer says it's press fit, then it really is press fit meaning it will be plenty tight after normal installation, and also meaning that because of the small tolerances any extra layer (like loctite) will make it harder to fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not saying there aren't exceptions but none of the press fit bike components I ever installed had problems or became loose. In fact before I had the proper tools for press-fitting I just used to hammer the components into the frame and when you do that it is obvious you don't need extra: it takes some serious meticulously aimed hammer strikes to get the cups in. No way they are going to loosen. Same story getting the cups out again: it takes sheer force - but the adequate tools provide this. Just to illustrate you should not need anything special at all for installation/deinstallation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9016" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T08:15:08.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34973" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T10:59:31.073" Score="2" ViewCount="5763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to replace my kickstand because it broke, so I need tips like is there any strategy on how to choose and install that part? Do they all fit into that hole where they need to be attached, or are there different sizes of stand for different bikes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23000" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T21:39:19.173" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T01:13:23.400" Title="Which kickstand to choose?" Tags="&lt;kickstand&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34985" CreationDate="2015-10-10T13:57:43.827" Score="2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;will a 29er rack fit 27x1 1/4 wheels, I've been looking at the axiom streamliner range as the frame has no specific mounts, although it does have an anchor point on the rear dropout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brakes are Raleigh branded weinmann alloy centre-pull as are the levers. However from the top of the hoods the levers feel very stiff, particularly the rear brake (left). Is there anything I can do without taking them apart? I.e. silicon spray into the pivot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23003" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T21:37:35.433" Title="I've recently bought a 1980 Raleigh Royal I have some questions. (brakes &amp; pannier)" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;panniers&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3855" CreationDate="2015-10-10T14:36:40.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did not see any mention of wheel build requirements. I have a mountain bike with disks and a road bike with rim brakes. My front road wheel has radial spokes, a style of lacing which I do not believe could be used with a disk. My disk mountain has 3 cross lacing. The spokes creak and groan a little under heavy braking, understandable given the torque load being transfered though the spokes. I did not see any disks in the Tour de France and I presume the lighter weight of the brakeset and completely adequate power of rim brakes are significant factors, but the lighter and better aerodynamics of radial spokes is the kicker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23005" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T14:36:40.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34978" CreationDate="2015-10-10T14:50:21.550" Score="6" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a second hand bike and am now tweaking it to my liking.&#xA;The bike has single pivot side-pull brakes, but it has a straight steering bar with regular brake levers (very similar, if not the same as &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160224102110/http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=91&amp;amp;sortname=Lever&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not like the travel of the levers of the brake. I only had to squeeze them half a cm and the brakes would be fully applied already. I find it more comfortable to press the brake levers halfway (2-3 cm), it feels more controlled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I elongated the cable slightly at the brake, but now the cable travelling from my lever to the back wheel brake is hanging loose under the frame whenever it is not applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I do to increase the travel distance of the lever, but also make sure that the cable is not hanging loosely when not in use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6852" LastEditorUserId="6852" LastEditDate="2019-07-14T16:30:21.607" LastActivityDate="2019-07-14T16:30:21.607" Title="How to prevent loose brake cables with a single pivot side-pull mechanism?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;rim-brake&gt;&lt;brake-levers&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="34978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34976" CreationDate="2015-10-10T15:14:06.933" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's because you have a combination of brake levers designed for V-brakes and side pull brakes. V-brakes need more cable pull for the same effect, so your levers pull the cable too fast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is to get levers designed for caliper brakes, something like for example this (note &quot;Caliper or Canti Brake Lever System&quot;): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=69&amp;amp;sortname=Lever&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=3&quot;&gt;http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=69&amp;amp;sortname=Lever&amp;amp;sort=1&amp;amp;fid=3&lt;/a&gt;. There are also adapters for cable pull issues, but they are made to solve the problem other way round and cost as much as simple brake levers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10595" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T15:14:06.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34772" CreationDate="2015-10-10T15:16:30.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer a basic's low end Montague will handle everything you have described.&#xA; I am a sucker for Foldies. Love them.&#xA; Cheap ones suck. You can put enough money into one to make it do anything.&#xA; The Montague has a stout frame that will hold up to most anything.&#xA; It does not fold to be very compact. It's major strengths is that it is simply shorter. Compared to good 20&quot; foldies its folding is rather poor, it is relatively heavy at about 32 pounds and Montague charges high retail for most of the upgrades to the basic bike.&#xA; The base model, while relatively expensive  and while using lower end components, is a decent bike and can be upgraded as your passions lead you.You don't save anything by buying upgraded components at the onset, and you get to select what you add.   The basic fork often doesn't have a lock out and this feature will improve your peddaling efficiency if you're on the road  substantially.  stock fork has a 438 MM axle to crown which is short and needs to be noted if it's replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23008" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T15:16:30.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2015-10-10T17:34:41.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try out this website, it apapts to your pannier rack via the Ortlieb bag system, which means just adjust this tripod bag in a very simple way to your pannier rack (it fits to all) within a minute and then safely fix the bag within 3 seconds and take it off by just grabbing it on its handle. g&#xA;Genious!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koenig-photobags.de/stativhalter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.koenig-photobags.de/stativhalter/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Unfortunately the website is in German only. Write in English, usually Germans understand English quite well.&#xA;Good luck&#xA;Roy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23011" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T17:34:41.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34982" CreationDate="2015-10-10T20:22:58.790" Score="3" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently brought a second hand bike with Shimano Deore gears on it and  when I switch up a gear on the chain-ring it requires a significant amount of actuation pressure on the 'flappy' paddle  (almost reaches travel limit before changes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how I should adjust this to reduce actuation pressure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23012" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T20:33:23.557" Title="Adjusting Gear Actuation" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34981" CreationDate="2015-10-10T20:33:23.557" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what you're comparing the effort to, but typically the front derailleur requires more cable pull to actuate, in comparison to shifting in the rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/tfBiXgf8JxI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adjusting Shimano Front Derailleurs&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/wQncKmddahk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adjusting Shimano Rear Derailleurs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that you need a bit of slack removed from the cable, but without photos, it's hard to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/Ea03ChN-7Vg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Front shifting explained&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3985" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T20:33:23.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T21:12:14.450" Score="3" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several cycling jerseys that have writing on the collars. Each one has the writing on the inside of the collar. Where nobody will ever see it except when it isn't being worn. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23013" LastEditorUserId="1338" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T00:52:38.790" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T13:27:34.177" Title="Cycling Jerseys" Tags="&lt;clothes&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34988" CreationDate="2015-10-10T21:21:52.117" Score="1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been googling around (Strava, mapmyride, local bike shops) and I couldn't find a recommended bike route between Durham and Carrboro (or Chapel Hill for that matter). If &lt;a href=&quot;https://goo.gl/maps/M15xnAk8dDR2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;google map's&lt;/a&gt; suggestion is the best, that's fine, but it would be helpful for someone whose done it to corroborate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19372" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T07:49:10.793" Title="Route between Durham, NC and Carrboro, NC?" Tags="&lt;bikeroutes&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34974" CreationDate="2015-10-10T21:37:35.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'll find that a rack that fits a 29er is meant to clear a relatively large tire. So you're likely to have room. If you wanted to get a better idea you might be able to ask to measure the rack at your LBS or see if there are specs on Axiom's web site. Or you could ask on Amazon. The number you're interested in is the distance from the lowest dropout attachment point to the bottom of the rack over the tire. Then measure that same distance on your bike. Allow about a centimeter (1/2 an inch) for fenders if you think you'd like to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the cables and housing look to be of a similar vintage to the bike? The rear brake usually has a longer length of housing and corrosion or junk (bug nests?) in the housing will drag on the brakes. As a quick check you could pull off the rear wheel and work the brakes several times – adding lubricant if you have some on hand – to see if they brakes start to free up. While you do this, watch the behavior of the inner cable, if it is hanging up on the housing you may see that it stays slack for a moment or takes up slowly when you release the brake lever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If working the cable seems to help then the best thing to do would be to replace the cables. It wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the shift cables too. A little bit of lube on the pivot points wouldn't hurt either. Just keep it away from the rim and pads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T21:37:35.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34973" CreationDate="2015-10-10T21:56:07.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/category-s/335.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pletscher&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greenfieldny.com/chart_bicycle.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Greenfield&lt;/a&gt; both make decent kickstands. The most common kickstand is a single leg model that attaches just behind the bottom bracket. Pletscher also makes a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/k21.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;double leg kickstand&lt;/a&gt; that mounts in the same place and Greenfield makes a kickstand they call the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greenfieldny.com/chart_bicycle.htm#stabilizer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stabilizer&lt;/a&gt; that attaches near the rear dropout on the non-drive side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The double leg kickstand is nice if you need the bike to be stable while you load cargo or if you use a single-wheel trailer like the B.o.B Yak or Ibex. On the other hand it is a, small, bit more trouble to use since you have to lift the bike a bit to all the legs to fold down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most kickstands seem to come in a size that is too long. The leg(s) need to be cut to a length that is appropriate for your bike. It's easy as long as you have a hacksaw – on the Pletscher you just measure from the ground to the center of the bottom bracket and then find that dimension on the where it is marked on the kickstand and cut it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where you park the bike you might want to get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/k3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;foot&lt;/a&gt; for the kickstand either to protect a floor or to provide some resistance to sinking into soft surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T21:56:07.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8626" CreationDate="2015-10-10T23:14:04.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting your saddle height and position right will make it easier on the legs. Hybrid 46 crank set will make hill climbs easier, compared to 50 tooth crank on road bike. However by the 50 crank set on the road bike will give a higher average speed on the straights. Best buy a road bike instead of tweaking the hybrid setup and ending up with something that's never quite right or fit for purpose. It will cost as much anyway to buy and fit all the upgrade parts. Some bike shops will take your old bike as a trade in. Good luck!.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23015" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T02:10:22.617" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T02:10:22.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34984" CreationDate="2015-10-11T00:03:10.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know where you want to start or finish, but here's some strava routes for central Durham to to central Carrboro&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red roads are more popular for cyclists, blue ones are less travelled, and white ones are rarely or never cycled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nnYp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nnYp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;popular&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/34984/route-between-durham-nc-and-carrboro-nc&quot;&gt;Route between Durham, NC and Carrboro, NC?&lt;/a&gt;   This one is the most &quot;popular&quot; based on strava tracks, and is 22.8 km.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iT1yw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iT1yw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;elevation&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This path minimises elevation changes, so instead of 309 metres of vertical you only have 225 metres of climbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0cCfE.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0cCfE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;direct&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This is the most direct path but it appears to go down a main road, which may not be legal on a bike, in your area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also find a number of strava segments in the area, using this link&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.strava.com/segments/explore#location/durham/type/cycling/min/0/max/5/surface/undefined/center/35.92059,-79.052797/zoom/14/map_type/terrain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.strava.com/segments/explore#location/durham/type/cycling/min/0/max/5/surface/undefined/center/35.92059,-79.052797/zoom/14/map_type/terrain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curiously, Google's suggestion is different again to any of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.677" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T00:03:10.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2015-10-11T00:12:27.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used a tramping pack for carrying large things, like a tool case the size of a large briefcase.  As long as its not too high behind your head its a workable solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T00:12:27.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15461" CreationDate="2015-10-11T01:12:15.417" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks a lot like my &lt;a href=&quot;http://dynobicycles.info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dyno Beach Cruiser&lt;/a&gt;. Actually, I'm positive it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPy9y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aPy9y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23017" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T23:45:57.843" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T23:45:57.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34260" CreationDate="2015-10-11T01:28:04.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dropouts look like good quality chromed steel, i.e. quite 'hard'. I realise the QR skewer is brand new, but if it's not great quality the serrated (?) nut faces may not be hard or 'sharp' enough to bite into the chrome. I'd suggest trying a better skewer, or possibly using sharp toothed washers between dropout and nut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2jZM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2jZM.png&quot; alt=&quot;(Wikimedia commons - toothed washer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23018" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T01:28:04.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16703" CreationDate="2015-10-11T02:29:15.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very common to have play in the pivot bushing and this definitely will make the brake noisier. If the play is between brake and cantilever stud you can make a bushing to take up the play using &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thin brass, .001&quot; or .002&quot;. Beer can material is way too thick. Just cut a piece the right size and roll it into a cylindrical bushing and finesse it into place when you put the arm on the stud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done this to quite a few bikes and it makes them much quieter. You can usually get rid of the squeal completely. Alas, newer brakes have an internal bushing that you can't take apart and shim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23020" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T02:29:15.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31305" CreationDate="2015-10-11T02:55:13.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Schwinn varsity? Heavy. Bullet-proof, but heavy. Not compatible with newer parts. Anything that would fit would be a tinkering work-around - and you would have to be the DIY tinker. Nothing is compatible with newer components. Do you want to spend a lot of time diving into used parts bins? &#xA;IF you can find used parts bins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those old Schwinns do have a certain following - as they were unique technologically. But they aren't good road bikes by any standard - they weren't good road bikes even back then. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw - I have a 1970's Panasonic road frame with 27&quot; wheels I use as a single-speed. I've got a 1950's Raleigh in the barn as a possible restoration. My commuter bike has a top-of-the-line Raleigh frame from the late 70's, with modern components. So, I've got a little experience with this issue. My everyday choice of rides is a modest Specialized &quot;city&quot; bike that I bought used (lightly!) for $175. I use it because it has fat tires and a geometry that I can handily use on gravel roads and trails. Because my riding buddies these days are my dogs, not my mates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go with the advice to look at something newer with low miles / light use, for a couple more bucks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23021" LastEditorUserId="23021" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T03:05:19.270" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T03:05:19.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2015-10-11T03:26:45.487" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excellent pictures! You've said that this bike has not had regular maintenance. This is critical. I love old bikes. I love Suntour! But, frankly, you could buy a lightly used bike from CL, with similar characteristics - and MUCH better components, for far less than it is likely to cost you to refurb this bike. And, you will be much happier with the newer bike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, from looking at the photos - your middle chainring looks worn. This means your chain is likely worn out also. My guess is both are likely in need of replacement. Everything certainly needs maintenance, and it needs way more than a Simple Green cleanup. The problems you describe with the shifters do not sound good - and I think you may end up wanting to replace the shifters. But quality replacements for those shifters today are not so easy to find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best advice is to talk to a local bike shop - or even two of them. Ask them what they think needs to be done. Then ask yourself if you are up to doing that work instead of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23021" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T03:26:45.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34834" CreationDate="2015-10-11T03:50:07.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on your video, I will second the guess that things are just a little stiff yet. Perhaps the grease is a little thick. It does not look like anything is &quot;wrong&quot;. But the sound when you are pedaling concerns me a little. It could be normal - after all - this is a single-speed, and the rear sprocket does have a freewheel mechanism - which just means that it could still just be that this unit is new, and the grease is a bit thick and heavy. Usually my singlespeeds do not give me a clicking like a multi-speed freewheel does, but I'm pretty sure the pawl mechanism is basically the same - so you could get a clicking just 'cuz it is a freewheel. Got any experience cycling buddies (who could see the bike and you) you could ask about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23021" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T03:50:07.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="34999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34224" CreationDate="2015-10-11T04:02:33.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Five-speed shifter is accurate. After all, you have only five gears in back, and 3 in front, right? Online searches can find you new shifters, but you'll have to know more about them to buy the right ones than you do now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think it most likely that your real problem is a lack of maintenance. This sounds like an older bike that has seen little use. Anything sitting in the garage for 2 years or more fits in this &quot;older&quot; category. Your cables and derailleurs need lube. I'm guessing they have not been cleaned and lubed - ever. And that the most likely reason for your issues is that the derailleurs are just plain sticking. If you don't have rust, a good cleaning and lubing may work wonders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23021" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T04:02:33.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34943" CreationDate="2015-10-11T04:21:13.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could tell you more accurately if I were riding with you and could hear the noise and where it came from. But, I can tell you these things for certain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clean and lube your pedal bearings. Do not skimp and just add some oil. Also make sure your pedals and crankarms are tightened to the &lt;em&gt;correct&lt;/em&gt; recommended torque. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not delay before applying these maintenance measures. I say &quot;do not delay&quot; because the cause &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be that the crankarms are not torqued down properly. This is not likely, but it is possible, and if it is the reason? Then you can ruin the crankset within a few miles of riding. That's right - ruin - to the point of a crankarm or the crank spider cracking and eventually breaking. If it cracks you will see it happening - and it won't be sudden - so in that way it is not unsafe, ok? But it will be relatively expensive to fix. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the first thing you need to do is to make sure the moving parts involved (pedals, crankarms, bottom bracket) have proper maintenance and lubrication. Your problem is likely somewhere in there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23021" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T04:21:13.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-11T06:40:02.573" Score="5" ViewCount="1485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 18 speed bike. There are two chain rings in the front and 9 cogs at the back. I am new to cycling and I wish to know which gear combinations should I avoid to prolong the life of the chain and gears and avoid cross chaining. So can someone help me please. The labels are like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1-9) at the rear with 9 being the smallest&#xA; (1-2) at the front with 1 being the smallest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can you please write down which combinations i should not use if i am conservative or wish to be on the safe side. thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17355" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T02:37:49.347" Title="cross chaining 18 speed (2 * 9) bike" Tags="&lt;gears&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35005" CreationDate="2015-10-11T07:09:23.510" Score="2" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 2013 cannondale trail SL 3 and some parts have been worn and look beat up so I'm planning to replace them. I was wondering if I can use a 10-speed rear derailleur on a 9 speed cassette and can I use any shimano shifters as long as they're 3x9? (I.e. Shimano Deore shifters on XT front and rear mech all 3x9. Also, can I change the crankset as long as it has the same number of teeth on all chain rings? Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specs:&#xA;Fork    RockShox XC 30 TK, Coil, 100mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hubs    Cannondale C4 front and rear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cranks  Shimano FC-M430-8, Octalink, 44/32/22&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom Bracket  Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain   Shimano HG53&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear Cogs   Sunrace M96, 11-34, 9-speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Front Derailleur    Shimano Acera, 31.8 clamp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore, shadow design, 9-speed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifters    Shimano Alivio&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brakes  Shimano BR-M446, 160/160mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brake Levers    Shimano BR-M446&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23023" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T08:39:10.987" Title="Cannondale Trail SL 3 component upgrades" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;&lt;upgrades&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-11T07:20:42.397" Score="5" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if anyone knows of any high-end components that are like Paul components. Not the pro-peloton stuff like SRAM and Shimano, but the, dare I say hipster components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for components for a fixie and a vintage mountain bike (both cantilever and vbrakes, and the center bolt brakes, triple cranks, single cranks wheels, stems,  everything!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like the vintage anodized aluminum look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19743" LastEditorUserId="7785" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T22:24:20.007" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T16:28:37.593" Title="High-end components" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;fixed-gear&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-10-15T01:05:51.003" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35003" CreationDate="2015-10-11T08:39:10.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that 5 speed is unique, 6/7/8 all share the same chain specs (unless its weird) and that 9 and 10 and 11 are all unique again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably best to keep everything in the 9 speed range, and perhaps enjoy some tech trickledown from the higher grades.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your specific questions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A 10 speed deraileryeryer will probably work &quot;okay&quot; but the wire pull is different, so in the middle of the cassette should be fine, but as you approach the outsides it will progressively not go quite far enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can use any 9 speed shimano shifter on a shimano 9 speed setup.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The crankset does not need the same number of teeth, but if you make it too big or too small, then the front mech may be too small to span all the chainrings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2013 is not that long ago - for a bike part to be worn out in a couple years suggests that you're using it well, or mistreating it.   Care for your ride and it should last 10-20 years.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T08:39:10.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35002" CreationDate="2015-10-11T08:46:58.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Big at the front should generally not be combined with big at the back, for two reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It forces the chain to use a non-straight chain path, (hence &quot;cross chaining&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The derailleur spring has to stretch out forwards to allow the chain to be mostly on the cogs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also want to avoid small front and small rear, for similar but opposite reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The chain does the same out-of-line crosschaining, merely in the other direction&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The derailer has so much extra chain to take up that it ends up folding completely up and the chain can rub on itself passing around the two jockey wheels.  At extreme cases the chain can catch itself, and wrap itself around a jockey wheel.  This tends to bring pedalling to an abrupt halt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chains wear out no matter what you do.  Grit from roads, salt, and plain old usage wear a chain.  You're recommended to fit a new one every 2000 km, but different brands have different numbers, plus your usage comes into it.&#xA;If you ignore the chain then it will slowly wear out the rear cassette, and then starts on the front chainrings.  A $30 chain a year is cheaper than a new cassette and chain every two years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T02:37:49.347" LastActivityDate="2017-02-06T02:37:49.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35004" CreationDate="2015-10-11T09:10:57.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cook Bros, Chris King, Tune and Middleburn spring to mind, but in the 90s there were plenty of 'boutique' and exotic component makers.&#xA;Have you had a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.retrobike.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;retrobike.co.uk&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit to add: Ringlé, Grafton, Control Tech, Syncros... but there are more.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23018" LastEditorUserId="23018" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T11:40:55.640" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T11:40:55.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35002" CreationDate="2015-10-11T13:17:12.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtbtreks.com/how-to-change-gears-on-mtb-shifting-for-dummies/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Read this article&lt;/a&gt; and use your common sense. It does matter a lot to change gears in the right way but it won't kill your bike if go wrong by one cog :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23025" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T13:17:12.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35002" CreationDate="2015-10-11T15:36:19.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have a road bike. If that's the case, the front derailleur usually has little clearance. This will cause some grinding noise (between chain and derailleur) before extreme cross chain occurs, providing that the front derailleur is set up correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually:&#xA; - Front 1 matches with Rear 1-6&#xA; - Front 2 matches with Rear 4-9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chain, chainring and cog wear is not the real problem. Extreme load on cross chain wears the free bearing much faster than any other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14414" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T15:36:19.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35011" CreationDate="2015-10-11T17:39:30.223" Score="11" ViewCount="2610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trek 620 (Reynolds 531 lugged steel frame) from the mid-80s the rear dropouts are spaced at 126 mm. I'd like to be able to run an 8- or 9-speed cassette and I was wondering about the issues involved with running a modern road hub with 130 mm spacing without adjusting the frame spacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the rear triangle would have the ability to flex 4 mm without needing to be cold set – at the expense of a small misalignment of the dropouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there problems with doing this? Other than the slight hassle when installing the rear wheel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it impact the value of the frame – the bike is a rider, probably not a candidate for a restoration (frame could use repainting and I'm not sure the components are original, the wheels definitely are not)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2020-04-30T01:31:15.700" LastActivityDate="2020-04-30T01:31:15.700" Title="To Cold Set or Not To Cold Set?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;frames&gt;&lt;modification&gt;&lt;cold-set&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35010" CreationDate="2015-10-11T18:41:35.793" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No need to cold-set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a BSO with the same problem. The rear dropouts are about 6mm too close for the hub. I can just flex them apart and let the hub in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The misalignment of the dropouts would be virtually nonexistent at 4mm flex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remove your wheels often, and putting the wheel on is a pain, it might be worth cold-setting your frame. Other than that, don't bother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14375" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T18:41:35.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35010" CreationDate="2015-10-11T21:11:26.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done this by putting an 8 speed free-hub wheel with a 7 speed cassette into a bike that had a 5 speed freewheel wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only issue is wheel fitting/removal - a bit of leverage to separate the dropouts and the wheel tucks in nicely.  If you needed to do this on the road Murphy's Law may ambush you and make it fiddly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mounting the wheel square is awkward - I use a clamp on the brake lever to close the rim brakes, one hand where the tyre passes the chainstay, and the other hand to close the quick-release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Functionally it works fine for me, I'm riding that bike in a 12 hour relay this weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Post-race edit) My 12 hour relay is over, and I noticed that the rear quick release was not great at holding the wheel.  Every second lap (2x 13 km) I had to realign the wheel because it had started to rub on the left chainstay.&#xA;Off road riding exaggerates the effect of distance - I could probably do 500-1000 km on the road to get the same loosening effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collectively I think the not-quite-parallel dropouts plus the dropouts were never intended for QR so have no lips or roughenings, and  the intense workout of carrying my fat arse down undulating singletrack made the rear quick release slacken off a bit quicker than normal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your monthly mileage and the road conditions, it may never be an issue for you.  For me checking that QR is now part of the maintenance check.  If it gets really bad I will return to a solid axle with normal nuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-10-18T01:16:54.363" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T01:16:54.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32707" CreationDate="2015-10-11T22:01:17.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So eventually it seems I figured it out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chain was indeed vibrating like a guitar string at speed. This was caused by a couple of rear gears ever so slightly out of alignment. They shifted ok but I could see the chain was marginally catching on some rear cogs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small adjustment of the gears with the dial on the gear shift and a good grease of the chain and it was running silent :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21074" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T22:01:17.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35015" CreationDate="2015-10-11T23:17:44.053" Score="3" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my 2006 Trek 3700 stolen from my apartment today. I reported it to the police and should be getting at least a small amount of money from renter's insurance. It was locked with a Kryptonite combination cable lock to my front porch. They did not cut the rails of the porch, and the lock was not there anymore. My conclusion is that either they figured out the combination somehow or cut the lock. I use my bike to commute to work (about 15 min. bike ride on a community bike path), so I need to replace it ASAP. I'm trying to weigh a few factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-I don't want to spend too much money on it, for a couple reasons. One, I don't want to attract more thieves when I have to lock it up, though I'll try to bring it inside more and get a better lock. Two, my bike that I paid $270 for in 2006 has served me just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-I'm not comfortable buying a used bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-My previous bike was very heavy, and I live on the second floor, so a lighter weight bike would enable me to store in my apartment (and at my office) rather than locking it up on the porch or bike racks at work. I realize this would probably cost more, though, and contradicts the &quot;avoiding theft&quot; when I do have to lock it up to meet people elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-While a lighter bike would allow me to keep it safer from theft, I did prefer the mountain bike style of not having drop handles, and I like the shock absorption of all the potholes we get on the east coast, and mountain bikes (or even hybrid bikes) are heavier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any lighter weight mid-price-range hybrid bikes that you could recommend? Or something else that balances my above concerns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14504" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T04:49:35.243" Title="Hybrid bike stolen, trying to weigh factors for how to replace" Tags="&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;product-rec&gt;&lt;hybrid-bike&gt;&lt;weight&gt;&lt;theft&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35014" CreationDate="2015-10-12T00:44:20.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you say you're not comfortable buying a used bike, but…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A used bike will get you so much closer to what you say you want in a bike, and can be so much better a value for your money. Here's my pitch for a used bike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look for a brand name &quot;vintage&quot; mountain bike – one without suspension, but with tons of clearance for fenders and wide tires. If I were looking, I be hunting for something like a Trek 850 from the '90s. I think Bridgestone also made some nice bikes of similar vintage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The wide tires will let you run wide street tires (something like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/big_apple&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Schwalbe Big Apple&lt;/a&gt;) at a relatively low pressure that will give you a comfortable ride with relatively low rolling resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No suspension means lower weight, complexity, and for equivalent quality lower cost. Eliminating the suspension also makes it easier to fit fenders and racks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An old used bike will have lower perceived value, especially a steel bike with skinny tubes. Steel is nice in a used bike because it is much less likely to fail suddenly as a result of mistreatment by a former owner and it is also out of vogue which may help with the thieves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the big question, I think, is why not a used bike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's because you don't feel qualified to check out a used bike, I can understand that. Perhaps your LBS sells used bikes, or can recommend someone who refurbishes them in your area. I'd also encourage you to consider that bikes aren't like cars. They are much closer to &quot;what you see is what you get.&quot; If you test ride the bike and like it and all of the basic functions work – brakes, shifting, adjusting the seat and bars – then you're probably good. You could also factor in the cost of having your LBS do a tune up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T00:44:20.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35004" CreationDate="2015-10-12T02:31:15.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a company called &lt;a href=&quot;http://velo-orange.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Velo Orange&quot;&gt;Velo Orange&lt;/a&gt; that sells stuff of the type you seek. They have other brands as well as house brands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I've no personal interest in this company not have I ever purchased anything from them. However I have a few friends who've been very happy customers, and the stuff they've purchased has looked to be of high quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10473" LastEditorUserId="10473" LastEditDate="2015-10-12T15:07:12.520" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T15:07:12.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35010" CreationDate="2015-10-12T03:53:21.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's only 2mm on each of the rear triangles has to move. Sheldon Brown has an elaborate system using strings to make sure that the motion is symmetrical but I think this is rather overkill for anything but the most expensive/vintage bikes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cold set my 1975 Peugeot UO-18 to use a 9-speed cassette with no issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11160" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T03:53:21.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-12T06:59:17.240" Score="1" ViewCount="1793" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey I was wondering how you would change a chainset from 2x11 to 3x11 on a Carrera Fury (SRAM components) Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23023" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T05:30:59.173" Title="How to change 2x11 to 3x11 on mtb" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;chain&gt;&lt;derailleur&gt;&lt;crankset&gt;&lt;chainring&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35019" CreationDate="2015-10-12T08:50:59.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The minimum you'll need at least a triple front crank.   You can't just attach a third chainring to your existing two.  Depending on what you find, the right crank arm may be integrated and non-removable from the front chainrings.&#xA;Of course the new crank arm would require the same bottom bracket fitment as your existing one.... or you're up for a new bottom bracket too and a replacement crank arm on the left side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pedals should be fine - there's a good chance they're 9/16&quot; thread, and a very small chance they're 1/2&quot; which is a kids size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your front derailer has enough range of motion then it could be okay, otherwise a new front mech.  Some front cages (the bit that pushes the chain about) may not drop low enough to cover the three cranksets.  You'll have to try and see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your left gear shifter - if its a friction one it may be okay, but you probably want one with enough cable pull to haul the derailerereureur about three positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good news is you shouldn't need a new chain (although check for chain stretch and replace if its got too much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rear cassette should be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is not SRAM specific because I don't know a lot about their models.   Someone else who knows their product?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T08:50:59.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30492" CreationDate="2015-10-12T08:59:25.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd start with a new chain as a simple maintenance matter - this should have been done when the new rear cog went on anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then compare how your new chain lies around the front chainring compared to the old one.  It should mesh fairly well over the whole length of contact, not having phased waves of contact and spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, are you positive its the front chainring skipping?  Your feet are on the cranks so it can still be the back, and you feel it through the pedals which makes it seem to be the front.   Get a friend to ride along side, or try riding on a treadmill or rollers... or even use a gopro and a mount to see what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T08:59:25.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34943" CreationDate="2015-10-12T12:55:32.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what was described, I.E the creaking going away when the pedal in question was flipped 180 degrees I think we can assume that it is the pedals which are at fault. &#xA;When using metal pedals there are often screws attaching the outer rim to the center. These may have become lose and just require tightening with a screwdriver.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20055" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T12:55:32.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35035" CreationDate="2015-10-12T14:12:50.200" Score="2" ViewCount="1671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I intend to upgrade my FireFox Sniper V to electric, by replacing the front wheel with a motorised kit wheel. &#xA;My question is that the wheels (both) are quick-release: is it safe to motorise this bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;! - the motorised kit wheel is bolt on type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14633" LastActivityDate="2017-10-13T19:39:37.263" Title="Replacing quick release wheel with ebike - motored wheel" Tags="&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;electric-bike&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34983" CreationDate="2015-10-12T14:41:25.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a message personally to the wearer of the jersey, for inspiration or so other sort.  Its like having a tattoo that isn't visible to the world.  Its enjoyment for oneself.                            &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23034" LastEditorUserId="26917" LastEditDate="2018-10-01T13:27:34.177" LastActivityDate="2018-10-01T13:27:34.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35024" CreationDate="2015-10-12T14:47:12.880" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is safe, because motorized wheel will be firmly attached by the bolt mount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6595" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T14:47:12.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5814" CreationDate="2015-10-12T15:04:41.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy sorbothane sheet or sorbothane strip to wrap around the handle. It will solve your problem. Cover sorbothane with overgrip to protect sorbothane strip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23037" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T15:04:41.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35742" CreationDate="2015-10-12T16:14:02.553" Score="1" ViewCount="1832" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will panaracer Fat B Nimble 27.5x3.5 tires on Velocity Blunt 35 rims fit on a Medium Surly Karate Monkey Frame?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt there will be any clearance issue on the front fork since it can hold a 29x3 surly knard with plenty of space.  However, I'm not sure about the rear triangle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T19:39:29.080" Title="Will panaracer 27.5x3.5 tires on Velocity Blunt 35 rims fit on a Medium Surly Karate Monkey Frame?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;conversion&gt;&lt;650b&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35004" CreationDate="2015-10-12T16:28:37.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find the sweet compoents from Paul Components, White Industries, Chris King. You'll find fancy machined cranks, hubs, freewheels that are built to last and look sweet. Chris king thrown in for badass headsets and bottom brackets that last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T16:28:37.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5713" CreationDate="2015-10-12T17:47:49.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pieces of old inner tubes secured with painter's or electrician's tape.&#xA;Roll a few lengths of inner tube around the toptube as needed.&#xA;Also wrap innertube around your D lock to prevent scratches, or just keep some handy where you carry your good spare inner tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23039" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-10-12T21:40:39.183" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T21:40:39.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35034" CreationDate="2015-10-12T20:02:16.507" Score="6" ViewCount="1379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got myself a road bike that I intend to ride occasionally during winter (mostly for commuting). I live in an apartment, so storing the bicycle in a dry and cold place such as garage is not an option. I know that frequent temperature changes may lead to rust on steel components. My bike has double-butted alloy frame and carbon fork, so no rust hazard there, but other parts may be compromised. On the other hand, keeping the bicycle near a heating device may cause damage to tires and/or other rubber components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to discern from a &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/1429/winter-maintenance-before-putting-bike-in-winter-storage&quot;&gt;similar question&lt;/a&gt;: my general concern is related to frequent extreme environment changes (wet and cold outdoors vs. hot and dry indoors) and their impact on bicycle maintenance/performance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what are the usual tips for storing a commuter bicycle indoors, during winter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22700" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:37.657" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T17:20:31.107" Title="Storing commuter bicycle indoors during winter" Tags="&lt;maintenance&gt;&lt;commuter&gt;&lt;winter&gt;&lt;storage&gt;&lt;indoor&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35032" CreationDate="2015-10-12T21:33:35.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your bike would like the same conditions as you yourself would like - room temperature air and humidity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also bikes dislike being left salted - if your location salts the roads then rinsing this off after your ride is an excellent idea to preserve &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If space is an issue, there are several solutions for small spaces.  If you have space up high then there are rope/pulley combos that raise your bike up.   Or you can hang them vertically from the front wheel from a wall hook.  Search sites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://instructables.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://instructables.com&lt;/a&gt; for ideas on this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apartments tend to be upstairs - do be careful of your bike carrying it up stairs or manoevering it in a lift/elevator.  Carbon doesn't like being knocked or chipped, so impacts are bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does your apartment have any sort of storage locker?  If there are sufficient cyclists then there may be sufficient call for a shared space which is easier to access.  Plus the rest of the building occupants won't need to put up with bikes in the hallways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T21:33:35.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35024" CreationDate="2015-10-12T21:56:05.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, probably and maybe.   I'm unfamiliar with your bike model, but I have run my own ebike front motor for a couple years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question - the old wheel is quick release, but the replacement one will likely be a bolt-on wheel.  It is possible to use quick release adapters, but wheel nuts are more secure and will hold the anti-spin washers better than a QR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problems stem from design of the front forks and power of the motor.  As your motor powers on, the torque is transmitted through the axle.  Over time the dropouts get chewed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the wattage of your motor?   Anything under 300 watts doesn't have enough impulse power to cause a problem.  If you have over 500 Watts then a torque arm will help keep your forks working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an image of a torque arm - it helps distribute the rotational energy into the fork rather than just through the dropout.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x1Cup.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x1Cup.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Torque arm&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have disk brakes?  Your motor kit has to have bolt holes to support the rotor in the right place.   This is not an issue for rim brakes, but your rim brakes need to be working perfectly to cope with the extra speed and momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T01:01:03.957" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T01:01:03.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35038" CreationDate="2015-10-12T22:55:45.293" Score="5" ViewCount="1418" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is a good method for constructing dirt jumps? Not massive jumps, just something more than a simple mound of dirt for a bit of fun. It's one thing to pile up the dirt, but there seems to be a bit of an art form to getting the surface smooth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22576" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T13:06:21.960" Title="What is a good method for constructing dirt jumps?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;bmx&gt;&lt;jumping&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4750" CreationDate="2015-10-12T23:38:39.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i actually have a 700c tire on a 27'' rim but the tire bead wont sit properly. it sits slightly off center so the tire is high in one spot and low in the other. it makes for little bit bumpy ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23041" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T23:38:39.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35036" CreationDate="2015-10-12T23:53:25.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jumps takes time and effort to do right.   If you're going to rush or do a half-arse job then don't even bother starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Design is important - you need to consider run up space before and run out space afterwards.   Make the jump wide enough to give options - a metre would be a fair width unless you're making it difficult on purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bailing-out options - riders will ride around if it looks too hard, you may make the jump really wide to reduce this, or make it longer to go around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to avoid digging a moat around your jump.  Source the dirt from metres further away, you want to avoid having water collect on your track, because wheels and water means erosion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're aiming for a smooth curve on the face, so build up your jump a few inches then stomp or compact it.  Damp soil will compact better than dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deeper inside the mound you can use big rocks for bulk, but still pack the soil around them.   Trees and wood is not so good, it will rot.   Tanalised timber is okay for surfacing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your jump rises, keep tamping it down.  Use water to dampen it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember it doesn't all have to be built in one sitting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use shingle/stones to help reinforce the surface, but don't put sharp edges facing up.  Big flat river stones are okay in moderation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top - I'm not so sure on this.  You want to curve it back down quicker than you went up, but you must not have a lip or a sharp edge.... it won't last.   Jury is still out on timber at the top.... if you were building a jump with a wall on the far side (ie you have to get off the ground) then timber supports will be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The danger of timber is wear over time may create a tyre-grabbing rut right before the edge, where it's too late to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finishing - use a watering can or hose with a shower spray to smooth off the surface.  A flat spade or rake may be useful for smoothing, or you could even use a garden roller.   Also you might want to use some matting or concrete pavers to minimise erosion and to assist traction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final thought - do get permission to do what you want to.   Or do it on your own land.   Don't go damaging trees or wrecking other things to make your jump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I forgot to add maintenance.   Do periodic work on your jumps, to fill erosion or ruts, or just generally clean up.  Rubbish laying about attracts other rubbish so keep it pleasant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-10-20T23:22:23.013" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T23:22:23.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-13T00:33:18.607" Score="10" ViewCount="1575" Body="&lt;p&gt;Left foot is close to a full size bigger than right.  I have always had some left knee pain since going clipless.  Have always went with the shoe size for the larger foot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23042" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T16:20:46.323" Title="Can different size feet be a cause of knee pain?" Tags="&lt;cleat&gt;" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35039" CreationDate="2015-10-13T00:54:42.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Foot size difference is unlikely to cause pain directly, but having an oversized shoe on the smaller foot may provide insufficient support or too much movement.  Try additional socks on the smaller foot, or an extra inner sole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given one foot is smaller, is it possible that leg is a bit short too?   You'd need to consult a sports physiologist, or possibly get a professional bike fit.   You can use longer bolts on your cleat, and some packing between the cleat and the shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, could it be a simple cleat mis-alignment?  I have recently gone clipless, and its shown me my left foot prefers a different position to my right foot.   Mind you my saddle always feels wrong unless the nose is 2-3 degrees to the left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T00:54:42.163" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35039" CreationDate="2015-10-13T01:00:37.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people's feet are different sizes, although in your case this may be more pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could check that the cleats are in the same position &lt;em&gt;relative to your foot&lt;/em&gt;, but I suspect the cause is elsewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check that your cleats are &lt;em&gt;straight&lt;/em&gt;, and look at your pedaling action to see if your knees and feet are straight. Your knees should come close to touching the top bar as you pedal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the main cause of knee pain is pedaling too slowly, putting too much pressure on your knees on each pedal stroke. Since the pain is only one knee,&#xA;it's possible that you're putting too much pressure on that knee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the solution to try to pedal at a higher cadence (rate), using a lower gear. So you spin faster against less resistance. Try to pedal evenly, with the same pressure or force on each leg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also compare the muscle development or strength of each leg. Are they the same? Being that it's your dominant leg, I suspect not. If not, that could be something to look into. You could work to strengthen the other leg, as well as increasing your cadence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Another thing to consider is seat height. I would expect that you would get a problem with both knees if this was the cause, but it's worth being aware of it. Generally, we get &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pain in the back of the knee when the seat is too high&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pain in front of the knee when the seat is too low.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first results of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?q=cycling+seat+height+knee+pain&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google search&lt;/a&gt; may help for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8273" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T04:04:42.253" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T04:04:42.253" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13025" CreationDate="2015-10-13T01:34:16.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I discovered on my Giant Reign is that it's the chainring bolts. They will place pressure from the crank to the rings and the only thing holding them together is the bolts and if they are loose, can turn in the holes. Sometimes they just dry out, or get debris and will make that &quot;ticking&quot; or even sound like a short creak if they come from more than one bolt.&#xA;I now grease mine but it starts again after 10 to 20 hard uphill miles, pending on dust and stuff. I'm in the process of using Teflon plumbers tape on them, but I think the grease is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23043" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T01:34:16.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35060" CreationDate="2015-10-13T06:31:58.400" Score="3" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though this question has been asked a lot of times, and there are very good answers out there, all the answers talk about the effect of individual parameters in isolation. That is, they take trail, and then talk about it's effect on handling. Then there is wheel base, seat tube angles and the rest.&#xA;The problem is, all these parameters (trail, angles, stay lengths, etc.) have effects on the bike that overlap. For example, seat tube angle affects weight distribution on the bike, which (after a long convoluted path) affects handling, so does trail, stem length and wheel base, and though these parameters are not entirely independent, is there a way to understand the principal contribution of each of these parameters on the ride quality mainly by riding coupled with some intuition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be some good examples of test cases to assess the impact of these parameters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My aim is to be able to ride a bike, and exactly pin point to the changes that need to be made in a particular order to meet certain expectations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22695" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T21:41:51.800" Title="Understanding the bike geometry through riding" Tags="&lt;frames&gt;&lt;geometry&gt;&lt;bike-handling&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-10-13T22:59:05.743" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33012" CreationDate="2015-10-13T08:43:02.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way the human body reacts to training means that fitness will improve most dramatically if you exercise every two or three days. You would improve your times the most by commuting one extra day each week, and also going for a spin each weekend because you'd become a lot fitter.&#xA;This is free but it will cost you some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T08:43:02.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21665" CreationDate="2015-10-13T15:05:44.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get liability protection if you purchase a stand alone policy from a bicycle insurance company. If you go with &lt;a href=&quot;https://velosurance.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Velosurance&lt;/a&gt; - we will cover damages for bodily injury or property damage for which an insured becomes legally liable through ownership, maintenance, use, loading or unloading of an insured bicycle. When you fill out a quote form - you get to choose from &quot;None&quot;, &quot;$25,000&quot; &quot;$50,000&quot; and &quot;$100,000&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23036" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T15:05:44.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11206" CreationDate="2015-10-13T15:36:47.960" Score="-2" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;You are a biker and you hit a pedestrian&#xA;You are a biker and you hit a biker&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are a biker and you hit a pedestrian/biker - if you have a bicycle insurance policy , you will most likely have liability protection that should take care of the damages. (Source : &lt;a href=&quot;https://velosurance.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;velosurance&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;You are a biker and you hit an inanimate object&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you are OK. Then check for the damages on your bike. If the bicycle is damaged and you have an insurance policy - take pictures of the damage and submit a claim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;You are a biker and you fall over in the middle of the road and everyone laughs at you&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go home and relax&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23036" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T15:36:47.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35051" CreationDate="2015-10-13T15:40:21.167" Score="7" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shimano 22s x 32s x 44a &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why isn't that 22x32x44t ? What does the 's' and 'a' stand for in this case&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="21397" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T15:55:08.087" Title="Why are some chainrings specs appended with an 'a' or 's'" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34820" CreationDate="2015-10-13T15:41:49.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's highly unethical. This isn't any different than banditing a marathon. Race organizers go through quite a bit of trouble and expense to provide a safe racing environment, especially if the race goes over public roads. By jumping into a race you're exposing race organizers, participants and yourself for liability and in some situations stealing &quot;resources.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23036" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T15:41:49.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35049" CreationDate="2015-10-13T15:55:08.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thetallcyclist.com/2013/01/the-truth-about-the-shimano-a-and-b-type-chainrings/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;article&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Type B: by far the most popular one and also the default on Ultegra&#xA;cranksets; it comes in 52 and 53 teeth and must be paired with 39&#xA;tooth inner chainring.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Type A: comes in 53 as well as 54 and 55 teeth; as per Shimano’s&#xA;advice must be installed together with a 42 small ring.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Type E: a VERY rare combination: 56/44&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;There is NOTHING unusual about the 39, 42, and 44 tooth chainrings. It is the outer big ring that has special gates and pins machined into it for smooth and fast shifting. Since the 53/39 cranksets are dime and a dozen, flatlanders and time-trialists alike may opt for a 42 inner ring for tighter gearing. The more inquisitive like myself are aware of the A and B type Shimano story so we go on Google and search if it is possible to mix and match. And what do you know, the internet says it is, so it has to be true!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2Szn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v2Szn.png&quot; alt=&quot;from the same link as the quote&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the 'S', Shimano is Japanese and using an S is very common from Japanese manufacturers to denote a newer or &lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt;uperior product. Nikon does this with their cameras, Shimano does it with chainrings and component updates, and so on. Shimano has also used S to denote a product is a sprocket/cog and many other manufacturers- some Japanese, some not- use an S to mean single speed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19464" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T15:55:08.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35028" CreationDate="2015-10-13T16:11:52.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/bikes/karate_monkey_ops/bike_specs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Surly website&quot;&gt;Surly&lt;/a&gt; the maximum tire clearance on a 29er is 2.55&quot;. After reading a bunch of other forum posts from other sites asking the same question, I never read anyone going wider than 2.5&quot; on a 29er. I don't think this will fit between your seat stays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ran 700c you could get probably get wider clearance on the rear. When you really start pushing the limits of tire width, you'll notice any wobble in the wheel because it'll rub your frame! Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/03/12/how-wide-a-tire-can-i-run/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on how to measure tire clearance. According to Surly, when you put the wider tire on the Karate Monkey, there's an issue of it rubbing the front derailleur. They make a spacer for that if that becomes an issue for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19464" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T16:11:52.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34957" CreationDate="2015-10-13T16:34:22.770" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the 2015 version of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.winora.com/at/en/bikes/city/lifestyle/aruba-atbik77476?id=4055008846&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Winora Aruba&lt;/a&gt;, 8-speed bike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solid build, but sadly, it's a bit too expensive for my needs as a city bike: costs around €700 new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6678" LastEditorUserId="6678" LastEditDate="2020-09-16T11:22:19.423" LastActivityDate="2020-09-16T11:22:19.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35028" CreationDate="2015-10-13T19:41:37.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0NOh.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0NOh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://surlybikes.com/gallery/karate_monkey/karate_monkey_b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://surlybikes.com/gallery/karate_monkey/karate_monkey_b&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took me a while to confirm that these were indeed the panaracer fat b nimbles due to the low resolution of the image. However, it's definitely a panaracer, and there are only so many models that size. Like BEVR1337 said, I may have some issues if using a front derailleur, it looks like this should clear the frame fine. Rims appear to be velocity duallys which are a bit wider than the blunts, so if it is a good fit with these rims, the narrower blunt 35s should be totally fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2997" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T08:33:52.053" LastActivityDate="2019-03-22T19:39:29.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="35058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35032" CreationDate="2015-10-13T20:56:19.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most modern bicycle components will withstand an amazing amount of variation.  I do, however, recommend that you allow time for the bike to dry in between taking it out and keep the bike as free as possible from salt and grime (which will accelerate wear of your components).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As background, I have had several commuter bikes that regularly go between a 70F heated building and temperatures of -40F outside.  Issues WILL arise if you take a wet bike out into the cold.  However, given time to dry inside and keeping everything relatively clean, I haven't ever had any major problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13710" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T20:56:19.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35039" CreationDate="2015-10-13T21:09:39.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bio-mechanics can be difficult, for your situation you may need to do some trial-and-error to get down to the root source of your pain. By switching to clip-less you lock in your foot position more than with flats, so it will likely help to compare how your position between non-clipless and clipless differs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 1: Observe how you walk&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice how you position your feet as you walk. This can be useful to understand whether your starting cleat position should be straight or you will need to toe-in/toe-out depending on your natural foot stance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 2: Switch back to flat pedals and observe&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the pain manifested after you switched to clip-less (unassumingly from flat pedals) you may need to return to flat pedals to try and track down the source of your knee pain.  Flat pedals actually have some advantages as they let you continually re-position your foot while riding which can be useful if you have some bio-mechanical peculiarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ride for a while, make sure you feel comfortable, then take note of how you position your feet on the pedal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is your foot positioned for/aft (i.e., the location of your metatarsals relative to the pedal axis. Current thinking is to have your the axle between the 1st and 5th metatarsal.  However, because you a foot length discrepancies one foot may need to be positioned differently in order to ensure optimal bio-mechanics for each leg (e.g., if both legs are the same length - which may or may not be the case - you will have to position your feet differently to have the same leg reach.  If you set your cleats the same position in each shoe you may have shortchanged one of your legs which could lead to pain).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look how your heels are you heels aligned or do they migrate in or out.  Again, depending on your bio-mechanics having straight heals or toeing your heels in or out may give you better bio-mechanics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Observe whether or not you change your foot position during cycling once you find a comfortable position.  If you find you need to constantly re-position your feet, clipless pedals may not give you enough range of motion to cycle comfortably.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally note how far you position your feet inboard or out board on the pedal (sometimes refereed to as the q-factor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The goal will be try an recreate one of these  comfortable position when you set the cleats.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Step 3:  Trial and error with clipless cleat positions.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After observing how you interact with flat pedals try to set up the cleats on you shoes so you get a position close as you can to a comfortable flat pedal position.  For example, you may need to move the cleat on your long foot farther back on the shoe to equalize your leg reach and provide more support for the longer foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you should take notice of how much float your clipless pedals have.  Different systems have different amounts and types of float (some are angular only, while others have both lateral and angular float).  Systems with more float have more tolerance for bio-mechanical imperfections.  Even within a single pedal system (e.g., SPD-SL) different cleats can change the amount of available float.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In the end there is no easy answer.  You will likely have to employ a lot of trial and error.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4534" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T21:09:39.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35043" CreationDate="2015-10-13T21:36:46.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would be some good examples of test cases to assess the impact of&#xA;  these parameters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build a testbed bike that has adjustable parts covering the different parameters you care about. Instrument it appropriately and measure the changes to the factors you care about as you vary the parameters. This is necessarily vague because there are upwards of 10 variables that affect more than 10 output parameters. This is the reason your question is being marked as &quot;too broad&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a number of people have built bike frames with variable headset angle and attached front forks that have variable axle offset. That allows much experimentation with rake and trail. But the outputs measured are typically &quot;how it feels&quot;, because it's very difficult to measure the second and third order effects you're likely to care about, especially since the primary measurements (typically 6 axis acceleration) are very noisy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason your question is too broad is that each of the questions implied above has been the topic of multiple PhD research projects, from &quot;how do I smooth the output of my accelerometer&quot; to &quot;how much slop is acceptable in the bearings of my headset&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My aim is to be able to ride a bike, and exactly pin point to the changes &#xA;  that need to be made in a particular order to meet certain expectations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't precisely specify the expectations it will be impossible to meet them. You need numbers here, and both precision and accuracy. Ending up with &quot;head angle must be 78.24°&quot; means you need a &lt;strong&gt;minimum&lt;/strong&gt; of four significant figures at every stage right from the expectations. So &quot;I require not more than 4.123N of input force at the centre of the handlebar grip to maintain the centre of mass in a straight line path when hitting a 45.01° barrier 100.4mm high at 12.62m/s&quot; would be an example of one test case or &quot;expectation&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a book called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calpoly.edu/~wpatters/lords.html&quot;&gt;Lords of the Chainring&lt;/a&gt;&quot; that analyses all these factors in combination, and it is arguably the definitive work on the topic (I don't think it's as complete as the author does, but there is nothing better that I'm aware of). The author used to teach an engineering course in the subject and has extensive experience both theoretical and experimental (from years of students experimenting and reporting results). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a copy and have used it to design bikes, but I decided that in most cases it was more effort than could be justified for my garage builds. I still use it to get an idea of the desirable values for a particular design, but I've also discovered that I can comfortably ride bikes that are on the fringes of what Bill says is stable. This might not be true for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7044" LastEditorUserId="7044" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T21:41:51.800" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T21:41:51.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23229" CreationDate="2015-10-13T22:55:31.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bike Registration is a solved problem. It's what &lt;a href=&quot;https://bikeindex.org&quot;&gt;Bike Index&lt;/a&gt; has done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's the largest independent registry in the world&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's free to register (it's not for profit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It provides automated registration for bike shops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Police use and search it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It does lots of other things and is &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/bikeindex/bike_index&quot;&gt;open source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bike Index recovers stolen bikes (&gt; 2600 to date), because it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additionally&lt;/strong&gt;: Bikes have serial numbers, adding additional registration points (such as stickers) is counterproductive, since it adds one more thing to track (and another point of failure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: I'm a co-founder of Bike Index. I built it because I was frustrated by existing registries and that they took advantage of bicyclist without delivering.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons National Bike Registry is a scam:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it costs money to register&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;registrations expire (and aren't transferable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;limited and inaccessible search for stolen bikes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No support, it's impossible to reach them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no maintenance or updates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paying National Bike Registry for a registration is absurd, it doesn't do anything. Don't give them your money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23057" LastEditorUserId="23057" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T20:09:23.923" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T20:09:23.923" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23229" CreationDate="2015-10-14T00:22:03.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps we need a meta-index, one that searches all the bike indexers in all the countries, then reports on matches based on serial number / brand / engravings etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like a email RBL blacklist DNS searcher, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://mxtoolbox.com/problem/blacklist/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://mxtoolbox.com/problem/blacklist/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I'd expect the sticker to be one of those permanent ones, or forgo that and use engraving on the steel/alloy frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downside is, police don't have a lot of time for low value recoveries like this, so there's no incentive to use these databases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T00:22:03.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33012" CreationDate="2015-10-14T00:26:03.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could improve your commute time by carrying less stuff on the bike.&#xA;I keep spare clothes and a pair of shoes at work for the few times I need to change, rather than carrying them with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your climate, you might get away without a coat/jacket going to work, but require it on the way home so consider keeping a jacket at each end too, ready for a downturn in the weather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carrying less stuff makes the ride faster, and more enjoyable too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T22:17:04.667" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T22:17:04.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13338" CreationDate="2015-10-14T03:00:11.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sleeveless cycling jersey offers no protection to the arms and might save a scratch or two in a light tumble.  It might save some gravel rash on the body.  It does offer protection against sunburn - but sunscreen the upper arms!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But for a shorter ride or say doing intervals on a warm day I find riding shirtless feels great so take the risk&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23061" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T03:00:11.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-14T09:07:09.750" Score="4" ViewCount="2791" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Sora 3500 set on my bike except for the shifters, which are Alivio ST-M310 and a 22.2mm flat bar.  Now I have a new bullhorn which I would like to install, but the old shifters don't fit, because the diameter of the bullhorn is 23.8mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to have the brake and the shifter at the end of the bar, somting like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/1337/handlebars.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;image&lt;/a&gt;. I thought that a bar-end indexed shifter and TT brake lever would fit quite well. I have a 2x8 gear system so, I think a Shimano Ultegra 6480 Triple 8sp Bar End Shifter would be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I can't find a TT lever-like brake that has a mounting ring rather than plugging in to the end of the bar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a brake lever (for caliper brakes) I could look for so that both (brake &amp;amp; shifter) can be mounted at the bar-end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After some search I found two solutions: one explained well &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ratracecycles.com/tag/bullhorn-bars/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;another solution is &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7pGA7xe0R3HQm9ZMEd6MHlfaXM/edit?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, and here the brakes are Reverse Brake Lever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Where can I found a reverse brake lever with clamp mount, and not internal handlebar wedge-sleeve mount?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, I found the answer, but can you correct me if I'm wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22509" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T17:18:31.700" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T17:26:44.813" Title="Brake lever and shifter for bullhorn" Tags="&lt;brakes&gt;&lt;shifter&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35024" CreationDate="2015-10-14T10:57:24.467" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you perhaps looked into going with a rear wheel motor or even better a central drive, (Bafang-8Fun- has great affordable models now at different power levels.) that will allow you to really leverage the bikes gearbox with the motor to make it a &quot;Real&quot; hybrid Bike-electric... As it is the speed increase to 20+ mph means you should perhaps look into Hydraulic or mechanical disk brakes with decent rotors, Stopping is EVERYTHING on an Ebike and if you are in city stop -go traffic I think they're better. The law allows upto a 750watt motor (Federally)but a 36v (or 48v) 500w mid drive, I think would be the better solution and perfect power level to still allow you to retain the 'Bike feel.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23063" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T10:57:24.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30421" CreationDate="2015-10-14T11:02:36.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to these pages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/2.4/MTB/Brake%20%28Disc%20Brake%29?q=M446&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/2.4/MTB/Brake%20%28Disc%20Brake%29?q=M446&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/2.4/MTB/Brake%20%28Disc%20Brake%29?q=M395&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/2.4/MTB/Brake%20%28Disc%20Brake%29?q=M395&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These brakes both use the same hose kit, SM-BH59-JK-SS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In document EV-BR-M446-F, the connecting bolt unit has part number Y8H298010.&#xA;In document EV-BR-M395-F, the connecting bolt unit has part number Y8H598010.&#xA;For both, the Olive &amp;amp; Connecter Insert (barb) has part number Y8H298020.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can find no information on the difference between Y8H298010 and Y8H598010, which may be superficial. &lt;strong&gt;If you have the fluid and funnel necessary to bleed the brakes, I suggest you unscrew the two hoses and measure the threaded fitting.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T11:02:36.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33012" CreationDate="2015-10-14T11:09:47.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you too limited in time? If not, consider cycling more often. Take note of your time and put that in a paper - you should clearly see a trend after a couple of months. Three times a week to start with should be a good short/mid term target. Long term target: every day. Not to mention the health benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23066" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T11:09:47.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35067" CreationDate="2015-10-14T11:31:30.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The levers in the first post that you linked to appear to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00MVTLPW0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cane Creek Crosstop&lt;/a&gt; (interrupter) levers. Tektro, Paul, and probably others as well, also make levers like this. They usually work by pressing on the cable housing (effectively making it longer), which is split at the lever. It looks like the levers in the photo are being used as conventional levers and are pulling on the cable itself – the cable appears to dead ends in the barrel adjuster of the levers rather than passing through as it would in a conventional interrupter lever setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T17:16:44.527" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T17:16:44.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35024" CreationDate="2015-10-14T15:27:05.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lucky you ;) As for myself, living in New York, USA (Brooklyn,) I know that by United States Federal Law All Ebikes under 750 watts are legal WITHOUT a License, Insurance etc BUT In New York City ALONE, they are currently illegal by city code, to rid on public streets, (Though a Law to revise that, is currently doing the rounds in the NY State legislature.) It's also legal I believe in NY Parks on paths (e.g NYC's Prospect or Central Parks (It's not so easy to find a current definitive standard Ebike guide to post @the moment that is correct for EVERYWHERE in the world, BUT if I find one I will again update this answer to include it) and obviously private 'off road' areas are good too... Rear wheel quick releases axles are not as sturdy as a through axle but for a 500watt or 300w motor, like yours, it should be fine and likely won't need a torque arm either, unlike a front wheel hubmotor setup, in which case I'd advise installation of the Torque arm to support the stress on your forks... About the disk brakes, I Hope you will consider getting brakes with electric motor cutoff switches, they are not that expensive (For Mechanical @least) and when paired with decent rotors 160mm or better 180mm, will really enhance your braking, as your not fighting the motor too and are therefore a quite vital safety feature for an Ebike in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23063" LastEditorUserId="23063" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T02:23:05.293" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T02:23:05.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34803" CreationDate="2015-10-14T15:41:33.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If spokes on the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; side are of the same length, but showing up as some are too long and some are too short - then they are laced incorrectly. Although, they could &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; like different lengths before you have made your first pass at truing the wheel. But after you have made at least one pass at truing, if they appear different, then they would have to be laced incorrectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23021" LastEditorUserId="23021" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T15:51:48.977" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T15:51:48.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-14T16:29:11.773" Score="5" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a gearless bicycle. I ride it about thrice a week. Its spokes are rusted. Any suggestions to clean the rust?&#xA;Also I need some good technique to clean the bicycle with rags and household material. Please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23068" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T22:39:19.493" Title="Cleaning and maintenance" Tags="&lt;cleaning&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34803" CreationDate="2015-10-14T16:40:43.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It turned out that the problem here was grossly over long spokes. I'd managed to miscalculate so they were 4mm overlong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that this allows the hub to move further than it should so that some spokes cannot reach while others protrude past the rim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although mislacing the wheel may cause the same symptoms this was not the cause in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19542" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T16:40:43.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35075" CreationDate="2015-10-14T21:12:32.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spokes - a &quot;steelo&quot; or other brand of pot scrub.   Use warm soapy water, because the dirt is generally dirt not oils.   Its hard to get up in by the hub where the spokes cross - you might find a toothbrush useful.   If its a rear wheel, remove the freewheel/cassette first, and for either wheel try to not flood the bearings.   Use clean water to rinse.   You may need to check the truing of your wheel after cleaning too, the flexing may move a nipple or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rust doesn't move, you can upgrade to a brass wire brush, similar to what is used to clean barbeques.  Brass is softer than steel so it won't damage your spokes, but it may damage the alumunium rim or hub.  Prevent rust returning by brushing on a rust-fixative solution and letting it reoxidise the rust to white/black iron oxide instead of red/brown rust.   Then coat with some grey spray primer.   All this is easier to do if the wheel is disassembled, but that's a massive undertaking on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rust is anything deeper than a surface skim, you'd be better off with new spokes.  Examine the bend at the hub for rust and wear too - that's a common place to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove anything electronic before cleaning, lights and computers etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the rest of the bike, wash it with another bucket of warm soapy water.  Use a rag for the big areas, and a 1 inch twist of rag to pull through tighter areas.   That toothbrush can be used in fiddly areas like derailerus.  An old dish scrubbing brush can be good for getting dirt out of tyre treads.&#xA;Don't wash the brake pad surfaces directly, and do remember to rinse any soap off the braking rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have disk brakes, your last step should be to clean the rotors with Isopropyl Alcohol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally for the pedantic, you can use tyre/tire black on the tyres (again mind the braking rims)  and a suitable leather or &quot;car interior&quot; treatment on a saddle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still making it better, consider a paint touchup on any part that needs it.  A flick of black spray paint on the handlebars does wonders for the look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the bike to dry (both water and paint) and when its dried, re-lubricate your chain and any pivot points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do use the opportuinity to look for anything wrong on the bike - preventative maintance then follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastEditorUserId="19705" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T21:39:11.067" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T21:39:11.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35075" CreationDate="2015-10-14T22:16:40.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get rid of rust, use steel wool with some sort of acidic solvent. I have actually used vinegar on some rusty components before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest piece of advice for bike maintenance is do a little after every ride. Whether that is wiping the chain free of dust or just taking a cloth to the frame; when you do this, all the small things don't add up and become a big job which would take hours to clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my bike I will generally just use Windex and a rag; starting at the top of the frame I will wipe it down. I will also make sure the chain is clean and lubed every 100 miles (160 km) or so. A lube like &lt;a href=&quot;http://bikes.progoldmfr.com/products/?product=prolink&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pro Gold&lt;/a&gt; is great because it basically cleans your chain and lubes it at the same time. I also use shoe strings to clean my cogs and chain and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23067" LastEditorUserId="8273" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T22:39:19.493" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T22:39:19.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5883" CreationDate="2015-10-15T02:35:49.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own a Catrike 700 and yes they are super fun and fast on dowhills and flats,but the only way you could match a upright on hills is if you are stronger than the rider on that upright bike.I also own an upright and yes it is a lot more uncomfortable but weight to power ratio is a biggie,I can hang and even pass rodies @23/25mph constant on my trike on flats no problem at all,but when uphill comes it sucks,on a steep hill on the trail I ride norm on the 700 will do around,8/10mph while on my Madone Trek carbon I spin around 12/14mph perfectly,there are advantages on trikes and on upright,both are fun and both are part of the sport,wich ever you pick depending on your riding style you will love any of the two always test ride before buying so you don't regret at the end.Keep pedaling it makes your body good so pass it on :-)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23074" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T02:35:49.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35082" CreationDate="2015-10-15T03:05:20.573" Score="3" ViewCount="1790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't pinpoint the problem with my bike, but the feeling is that it suddenly feels like I have no chains, and then it comes back, like it's &quot;skipping&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: From the comments, I think the proper description is that it suddenly stops engaging from the freewheel. Usually it happens when I'm vigorously pedalling, or when I pedal in reverse. There's also a snapping sound when it happens. And then it returns to normal after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23075" LastEditorUserId="23075" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T06:02:31.030" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T08:26:09.020" Title="Feeling of suddenly missing chain in bike while pedalling" Tags="&lt;repair&gt;" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35080" CreationDate="2015-10-15T06:31:11.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it happens completely quiet then it probably your freewheel (cogs) that broken and should be replaced. If you hear a skipping sound it is either your chain is too long or stretched, or (again) your freewheel is worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7999" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T06:31:11.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35080" CreationDate="2015-10-15T08:26:09.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three possibilities that I can think of to start with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your chain is worn and no longer fits the cogs on the cassette (or the single cog on the hub of a bike with internal gears or a single-speed bike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case the problem would usually be worse on higher gears (the smaller cogs in the rear) and under load. It probably wouldn't happen if you were pedaling gently on the flat for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a ruler it is fairly easy to check for chain wear. Just measure out 12 inches along the top of the chain, starting from the center of one roller. On a new chain the center of another roller will line up with the 12&quot; mark exactly. As the chain wears it elongates and by the time that roller is at 12 1/8&quot; the chain is worn out. Much beyond that and skipping can start. If the chain is very worn it is best to replace the chain and the cog(s).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your freewheel is malfunctioning. Two things could be wrong, there could be damage in the freewheel – either broken pawls or rounded/broken teeth, or corrosion or dried out lubricants could be causing the pawls to stick. The photo below, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://rustybikebell.wordpress.com/category/basic-workshop/page/3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A New Recyclist&lt;/a&gt; shows the internals of a single speed hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case the problem would be most noticeable when you were starting to apply power, damaged pawls/teeth might also skip as power increased as well. If you have sticking pawls I would expect them to hold once they seated. Broken pawls might never seat, and broken teeth would mean that there would be small (much less than a revolution of the pedals) skips when the pawls land on damaged teeth. Sticking pawls could let you go several pedal revolutions before they catch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also be able to diagnose this by listening as you coast. The sound of the freewheel should be a very regular fast clicking as the wheel spins. Then as you start to pedal there should be a consistent firm engagement, perhaps with a bit of click after a moment of silence as the cog catches up with the hub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCWu2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCWu2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The teeth and pawls of a single-speed hub.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your shift mechanism is badly adjusted or you are shifting inaccurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shifters are out of adjustment you may find that shifts either happen spontaneously or that you will sometimes do a &quot;half-shift&quot; where the side plates of the chain will land riding on the teeth – rather than on the sides of the teeth with the rollers engaging the teeth. That's not a very stable configuration and usually the chain will drop into a gear, but until it does the pedals will spin freely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T08:26:09.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35085" CreationDate="2015-10-15T09:20:03.430" Score="10" ViewCount="15683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wiggle.com/continental-quality-road-inner-tube/?sku=5360211840&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Continental Road inner tube&lt;/a&gt; with a threaded presta valve. I also have a threaded bike pump which I screw onto the valve to inflate the tube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I try to unscrew the pump, the uppermost part of the valve unscrews and detaches from the main body of the valve and all the air rushes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R19lp.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R19lp.png&quot; alt=&quot;Presta valve with labels for both parts&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it normal for a presta valve to be separable into two parts like this? How can I prevent this from happening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11330" LastActivityDate="2020-12-15T14:36:42.360" Title="Is it normal for a presta valve to unscrew into two pieces?" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;&lt;puncture&gt;&lt;pump&gt;" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35083" CreationDate="2015-10-15T09:35:56.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is normal. You can carefully tighten the valve core with pliers or special &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parktool.com/product/valve-core-tool-vc-1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tools&lt;/a&gt;. Medium strength Loctite helps a lot too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19529" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T09:35:56.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35083" CreationDate="2015-10-15T09:50:16.043" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct answer is yes and no. There are in fact two types of Presta valves: One where the core can be removed. Those are often used with tubular tyres so that the inner tube can be filled with a sealant (latex) fluid. Some higher quality tubes also have removable core valves for the same purpose. Normal and cheaper tubes have Presta valves where the core cannot be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a special tool to be used for handling the core although like @Michael said the (careful) use of pliers also works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason for a removable core is the possibility to use valve extensions with high rims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10401" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T09:50:16.043" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="408" CreationDate="2015-10-15T11:20:08.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All my life used coaster brakes and never was able to adjust to those bikes with rim brakes, you will adjust to speed, distance and be prepared - it will become your habit to always be prepared and hold your legs in position for coaster brakes, meanwhile your hands are free. This is especially great when you ride with hands off for fun and can have extra time to use your coaster brakes over hands one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23083" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T11:20:08.663" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35083" CreationDate="2015-10-15T14:12:00.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It happens to me every time I buy new tubes. You just tighten the valve and it won't happen again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23086" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T21:44:50.620" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T21:44:50.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35032" CreationDate="2015-10-15T17:20:31.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not the temperature changes that cause rust, but humidity, especially in combination with salt. Let the bike dry completely whenever possible. I store my steel bike indoors both at work and at home (in unheated but above zero garages), and try to avoid salted roads (which is not always possible). It easily survives the winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also depends on the kind of steel we talk about: Stainless steel parts need quite a lot of salt and water to corrode. Chromed steel parts (often some small parts on the components) rust more easily but a thin layer of grease/wax/oil helps a lot. Steel frames (and any other steel parts) should be protected from the outside (paint plus oil/wax) and the inside (most easily with oil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also some aluminium alloys corrode quite easily. Protect them with grease/wax/oil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T17:20:31.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="34591" CreationDate="2015-10-15T17:39:08.260" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try it out! For long distances it helps me personally to remind myself that &lt;em&gt;anybody can cycle 100 km&lt;/em&gt; when I only have 100 km or so left. It may hurt, but really, any cyclist could do that. This turns your ride into 240 km, which is only 40 km more than what you seem to be comfortable with. And of course anybody can do 40 km ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all happens in your head, especially when you leave your comfort zone...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planning/scheduling also helps me a lot when covering long distances more-or-less non-stop. Make a conservative schedule, e.g. based on 21 km/h (or whatever is &quot;quite slow&quot; for you) and taking planned longer rests (one or two?) into account. Based on that figure out your scheduled time for each 20 km and write it somewhere accessible while riding. If you planned conservatively, you will be able to stay ahead of your schedule. Then you can stay calm, and just ride with the feeling that you will manage. Use some of the &quot;buffer&quot; for smaller breaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T17:39:08.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-15T20:27:53.820" Score="3" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Speeder 200. (2015). I want to upgrade it's rear derailleur, my problem is I am unsatisfied with its performance. (it is a Tiagra with 9 speed at the moment). If i replace it with a 105 (9 speed) should I replace the other components(cassette, chain, front derailleur etc.) as well? Or can i replace with a ultegra?(does a 9 speed exists) Should I buy a groupset?  haven't tried an upgrade before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: I have been using it for around 400 kilometers, components are still fine, but I was never happy with that Tiagra. I have some problems with shifting, if speed is &gt;20km/h it does not shift properly. I have taken my bike to Merida service twice, I don't think there is a cabling or another problem. It seems OK, but on road i dont like its poor shifting. For example I change it 6th to 7th, after a few cycles I hear a mechanical sound and it decides to change, not on time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had another bike with Deore rear derailleur before, never had an issue like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23092" LastEditorUserId="23092" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T22:26:08.170" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T12:49:43.457" Title="possible upgrades for merida speeder 200" Tags="&lt;derailleur-rear&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35094" CreationDate="2015-10-15T20:45:06.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All Shimano road derailleurs (2400, Claris, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, DuraAce) made for 7-10 speeds are compatible with eachother. The amount that the derailleur moves is determined by the shifter.  With 11 speed they changed things up, so as long as the derailleur you chose was designed to work with 7-10 speeds you should be fine. For mountain derailleurs (Acera, Alivio, Deore) 7-9 speed derailleurs are compatible with the 7-10 road groupsets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 9 speed Ultegra or even DuraAce can be found at 9 speeds if you find old enough equipment, but all current 105, Ultegra, and DuraAce are 11 speed and will therefore not be compatible with your current 9 speed setup.  If you want to find a 105  9 or 10 speed derailleur, it won't be the current model, although the 10 speed 105 (5700), Ultegra (6700), or DuraAce (7900) is still readily available as a replacement part. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, are you sure that upgrading the derailleur will really fix your problem? What kind of problems are you having with the Tiagra? Could it be an adjustment or bad cabling that's causing your shifting problems?  Is your cassette or chain worn? 9 speed Tiagra is older equipment and it's possible that your chain or cassette are at the point where they should be replaced. I have 2400 (8 speed) level equipment, and find that it shifts quite well as long as the adjustment is good, and I usually don't need to adjust it very often.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastEditorUserId="163" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T12:49:43.457" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T12:49:43.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35104" CreationDate="2015-10-16T01:09:33.360" Score="2" ViewCount="4012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a simple Shimano hydraulic disc brake system (don't know the model).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, the feel of brakes is getting soft, I have tried to adjust by tightening the screw (on the joining of brake line). I have also recently changed the brakes pads myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is softness due to a decrease in fluid level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22909" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T12:02:18.073" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T15:22:11.460" Title="What causes &quot;softness&quot; in hydraulic disc brake systems?" Tags="&lt;mountain-bike&gt;&lt;hydraulic-disc-brake&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35098" CreationDate="2015-10-16T02:21:17.473" Score="6" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to replace the quill stem on my Roadbike with a Threadless head post. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTD3F.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTD3F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;diameter of the head post&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The measurement shows about .8 inches.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does a 1 inch adapter mean it is converting to a 1 inch diameter or does it mean the head post diameter should be 1 inch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23079" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T06:57:44.500" Title="What Threadless adapter should I use?" Tags="&lt;road-bike&gt;&lt;parts&gt;&lt;headset&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35097" CreationDate="2015-10-16T03:15:51.720" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a road bike the quill / threadless adapter size it is almost certain to be 22.2 mm (0.874&quot;). When people talk about a 1&quot; steering tube 1&quot; is the OD, the ID which is the actual size of the stem is usually 22.2 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description of the adapter will call it a 1&quot; to 1 1/8&quot; or a 22.2 mm to 28.6 mm adapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you install it you don't need the spacers under the stem that would be used in a normal threadless setup. To me the look took some getting used to, but I loved being able to swap handlebars without having to strip everything off one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T11:49:40.750" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T11:49:40.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35101" CreationDate="2015-10-16T03:49:51.563" Score="4" ViewCount="6267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a brand new Shimano Ultegra WH-6800 rear wheel. The freehub has about 2mm of play in it. I can feel the play without the cassette installed by grabbing the freehub body and moving it. It moves side to side and a little less in and out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I installed a cassette (brand new Shimano Ultegra CS-6700 10spd) and put the wheel on the bike (only in a stand) but it makes some awful noises when pedaling and shifting is a mess. If I look at the cassette from the back it is wobbling all over the place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I return the wheel or is this something that can be fixed by disassembling the hub?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23093" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T17:00:02.657" Title="Fix a wobbly Shimano freehub?" Tags="&lt;shimano&gt;&lt;repair&gt;&lt;freehub&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-16T07:06:16.290" Score="0" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bicycle tire specification is 40-622 (700x38C-28x1 5/8 x 1 1/2), would you please tell me the right size of the proper inner tube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23094" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T07:06:16.290" Title="proper tube size for bicycle tire" Tags="&lt;tire&gt;&lt;innertube&gt;" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-10-19T19:19:17.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35099" CreationDate="2015-10-16T07:19:48.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If its brand new and under warranty, don't mess around with it... take it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your freehub should have pretty much no discernible play, and adding a cassette on top just makes it look worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fixing the freehub yourself, I don't know because I've not yet had one that needs repair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19705" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T07:19:48.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-16T12:29:18.957" Score="3" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobgear.com/bike-trailers/yak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;B.o.B. Yak trailer&lt;/a&gt; which uses a ISO 305 mm BSD rim. I'd like to build up a wheel for the trailer using a dynamo hub (perhaps a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/sanyo.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sanyo H27&lt;/a&gt;) so that I could have lights on the trailer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I could use battery lights, but I've become very fond of not having to change or even think about batteries (a lot of our biking is &quot;car replacement&quot; rides around town, so it is really nice to just know that you've got lights). Seems like this would also give me power to charge a phone or other small device since the draw of a rear light will be well below the capacity of the dynamo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wheel built on 305 mm rims is going to turn just about twice as fast as a wheel built on a 622 mm (700C) rim. My impression is that the output voltage of the hub increases with speed – and that the output of modern hubs are regulated. So I'm wondering what issues I might run into using a dynamo generator as a power source.&#xA;Some that I've thought of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Availability of rims (the hub is available in 28, 32, and 36 hole drillings). A rim drilled for a presta valve would be nice since it would mean that a single pump would serve for bike and trailer without having to convert the head.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Availability of suitable hubs. The speed difference between the bike wheels and the trailer wheels has been pointed out, but I haven't been able to find data on the hub behavior. I would assume that dynamo hubs would be designed to tolerate a full range of biking speeds – say up to at least 65 or 80 kph (40 or 50 mph). Since the trailer is placarded with a speed limit of 40 kph I'd been thinking I was within bounds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finding short spokes. By my calculations I'd need a 110 mm spoke to do a radial pattern and could go up to around 155 mm doing a 4-cross. Seems like recumbents and BMX bikes would mean that spokes this short are available somewhere. Failing that could I have them custom cut from straight gauge spokes?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems like the big issue is the hub? Does anybody know the limits on modern hub designs? So far e-mail queries have gone unanswered…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19416" LastEditorUserId="19416" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T04:38:54.953" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T04:38:54.953" Title="Trailer Lighting Using a Dynamo Hub" Tags="&lt;wheels&gt;&lt;rims&gt;&lt;wheel-building&gt;&lt;lighting&gt;&lt;taillight&gt;" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="16" ClosedDate="2015-10-23T00:25:43.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="35104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35096" CreationDate="2015-10-16T15:22:11.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should bleed the system with mineral oil, not top up. If it's your first time you shoud see a tutorial video first on utube . if there is no leak you don't need to tight anything. if you changed the pads you must brake at least 50 times on a safe 